# The Official Kd-34xbr960 Thread



## spider4re

Thought I would start this thread now that it is officially on the sony site. I will add additional links as they arise to this original post.


Link: http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTE...XBR960&Dept=tv 



Overview

The cutting edge just got sharper with Sony's new KD-34XBR960 34 Super Fine Pitch XBR Television. Featuring a 16:9 Super Fine Pitch CRT, Hi-Scan 1080i display, and Digital REality Creation MultiFunction V1 circuitry, the KD-34XBR960 brings you a true cinema aspect ratio picture that is brighter, sharper and more vivid than ever before.

The KD-34XBR960 also gives you the other high-end features you would expect from a Sony XBR television, such as Cinemotion Reverse 3-2 Pulldown technology, MID® X Multi Image Driver circuitry, and Twin-View two tuner Picture-In-Picture. You can even view your family photos onscreen and listen to MP3 audio with the built-in Enhanced Memory Stick Media slot.


Features


16:9 Super Fine Pitch CRT technology

Hi-Scan 1080i Display

ATSC Integrated Tuner and Digital Cable Ready with CableCARD Slot

DRC® Digital Reality Creation® MultiFunction V1 circuitry

Cinemotion Reverse 3-2 Pulldown Technology

MID® X Multi Image Driver Circuitry

Twin-View Two Tuner Picture and Picture

HD Detailer Wideband Video Amp

ClearEdge VM (Wideband Velocity Modulation Scanning)

Memory Stick® Media Enhanced Playback* (JPEG, MPEG1, MP3)

HDMI Interface

i-LINK®

Super Fine Pitch CRT provides better image detail with high definition sources. The Aperture Grill was improved by making the vertical slits a finer pitch that increases the number of slits by up to 65% (16x9 base). Also improved were the High Precision Deflection Yoke, Fine Focus Electron Gun and the inclusion of higher intensity Luminescent Phosphors. The result is a more detailed image for both moving and still images, higher resolution picture quality, and better edge detail.


Digital REality Creation MultiFunction V1 Circuitry raises standard definition signals to HD quality via a digital bit mapping process, which is user adjustable. The end result? A display of clear, stable images from any video source.



------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

General:

Power Requirements: AC 120V 60Hz

Dimensions: 39 1/8" x 25 5/8" x 23 7/8" (994 x 652 x 605mm)

Weight: 194 lbs 8 oz (88.2kg)


Inputs and Outputs:

Component Video Input (Y/PB/PR) --- (1080i/720p/480p/480i) 2 Rear

Composite Input --- 1 Front/3 Rear

HDMI --- 1 Rear

S-Video Input --- (with detection) 1 Front/2 Rear

Control S --- 1 Rear

Audio Output --- 1 Rear (Fixed/Variable)

Monitor Output --- 1 Rear

RF Input --- 2 (antennae and cable)

POD Card Slot


Tuner:


ATSC, NTSC

8 VSB

Clear QAM

Seamless Tuning

Digital Cable



Supplied Accessories:


Remote Control (RM-Y200)

AA Battery (2)

Instruction Manual

Optional Accessories

A/V Stand: SU-34XBR1



Audio:


Trusurround Simulated

7.5W x 2 + 15W Subwoofer

Steady Sound® Automatic Volume Control With BBE® Audio Effect

Auto SAP

Audio Output (Variable/Fixed)

MTS Stereo

Speaker On/Off

PCM

AC-3


Convenience:


Auto Channel Program

Caption Vision (CC)

Channel Fix

Channel Label

Channel Skip/Add

Clock/Timer Two Event

Antenna level for DTV

Favorite Channel With Preview

Front Button Menu Control

Picture Freeze

Channel Jump

On Screen Display (English/Spanish/French)

Program Palette (Vivid/Movie/Standard/Sports)

Tilt Correction

Scrolling Channel Index System

Sleep Timer Function

Speed Surf Channel Selection

V Chip Parental Control

Video Label

Wide Modes: (Normal/Full/Zoom/Wide Zoom)

DTV Auto Add

PSIP Program Information


Video:


Dynamic Focus Circuitry

Dynamic Picture Circuitry

Trinitone® Color Temperature

ClearEdge VM (Wideband Velocity Modulation Scanning)

Vertical Aperture Compensation

Vertical Center Adjustment

3 D Digital Comb Filter

Auto Pedestal Clamp

Auto White Balance

High Voltage Regulator

HD Detailer Wideband Video Amplifier

NTSC Color System

ID1 detection

Magnetic Quadruple Pole

Tilt correction

Vertical Correction

Vertical Size Adjustment


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## wohlstad

The only problem with this set is the screen is small so the benefits of the uber pitch are rather diminished. Wish Sony would come out with 42" screen - I'd go for it in an instant


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## edstalnaker

Is this TV only 194 lbs like the Sony site says? I thought it was heavier than that. I'm interested in an Ikea stand that can only handle 220 lbs, so that would be an important consideration for me.


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## Q of BanditZ

Sexy!


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## RandyWalters




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by edstalnaker_
> *Is this TV only 194 lbs like the Sony site says? I thought it was heavier than that. I'm interested in an Ikea stand that can only handle 220 lbs, so that would be an important consideration for me.*



194 lbs is probably correct - the current 34XBR910 is just under 200 lbs as well. You might be thinking about the 40" XBR - that monster weighs about 300 lbs!


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## ganleybob

Thanks to Spider4re for starting this thread. We are all excited about this new tv!


My question is, what is the xy resolution of this tv? According to the info "the result is higher resolution picture quality." Is it possible to quantify this? I know tube TVs are not like digital displays in that there is not a fixed number of pixels... But what about the number of slits in the aperature grill? How many scan lines can it paint, this must be known?... (assuming that it can paint _at least_ 1080 interlaced visible scan lines on the tube)


I think increased resolution could be the most important reason to purchase this TV. But without quantification of what that resolution is, it is difficult to make an objective decision.


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## ccallana

Buying a new TV is not always objective though







Objectivity can narrow down your choices, but like anything in the analog world (our eyes, ears, etc) - it comes down to a subjective choice. Actual number of lines the TV can produce is interesting, but unless it *looks* good, whats the point?


I'm not saying this TV won't look good - I'm sure it will. Just saying there is more to TV shopping than specs







.


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## weetoots

Does anyone have a picture of the rear panel layout?


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## edstalnaker

Will any Ikea stands handle the weight of this TV? It doesn't look like Sony will include the stand for free, so the price will be about the same as the current 910 which they are including the stand with.


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## Segaboy

Has anyone noticed that there is NO coaxial or optical digital OUT listed in the specifications on the Sonystyle website?


If you use the CableCard technology and feed the signal directly into the monitor, to extract Dolby Digital don't you need some kind of digital output????


Am I missing something???


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## spider4re




> *Quote:*
> *
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a picture of the rear panel layout?*


*
*


Sony tech support is going to email me a pdf of the new manual next week and I will post a link to it asap.



> *Quote:*
> *
> 
> 
> Will any Ikea stands handle the weight of this TV? It doesn't look like Sony will include the stand for free, so the price will be about the same as the current 910 which they are including the stand with.*


*
*


Several members who posted in the members gallery have stated that their stands are from Ikea. You might also try a search on EBAY as I have seen many of these stands for sale there. The 960 has the same dimensions as the "old" 910 and the stand stated as an accessory for the 960 uses the same model number as the 910, so it should be a perfect fit.



> *Quote:*
> *
> 
> 
> Has anyone noticed that there is NO coaxial or optical digital OUT listed in the specifications on the Sonystyle website?*


*
*


Tech support is checking on this for me and will get back to me on Monday. They are 100% certain there is a digital output but, they wanted to determine that there is both a coaxial and an optical out.


Cheers!


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## Segaboy

Silly me, I forgot about the IEEE-1394 (Firewire) connection on the back of the monitor. Hopefully there is two of them.


If you use the Cablecard technology correctly and then use the HDMI connection from your DVD player (example), then you only need a Firewire cable feeding back to your surround sound receiver for DTS, Dolby Digital and PCM from your DVD player and DPL and Dolby Digital from the internal ATSC tuner and Cablecard signal.


Yes? No? Maybe so???


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## letMeIn

I am able to buy 34XBR910 for $1860 including taxes ... Guys what should I do wait for 960 or just grap 910 for that price ASAP ???????????? ahhhhh


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## celtsfan44

I'd certainly wait for the 960 unless you could get the 910 including taxes for less then $1700.... Frankly in my situation, I'd want the 910 to be less then $1600...


The 960's list price is dropping by 300 and arguably it getting 300-400 in improvements(cable card, integrated tuner/hdmi and some picture quality improvments).


IMHO closeout TV sets are usually a bad deal when the model on closeout is being replaced by something significantly better and noticeably cheaper. In terms of picture quality, I doubt the 960 will be that much better but the integrated tuner/cable card/hdmi are big additions. Dealers may take advantage of the consumers that don't know about the upcoming XBR960...


Closeouts can be a very good deal on a set whose replacement is just getting a little bit better and isn't changing in price much.


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## spider4re

Before I heard about the 960 I was ready to buy the 910. I was quoted a price of $1750.00 w/free delivery (no stand- didn't need it) by a major chain in the ny,nj,ct area. If they were able to offer the 910 to me at that price the 960 should certainly be sold at that price point. Maybe not at first due to initial demand but soon after.


My suggestion is to hold out for the 960. Ya can't beat all those extra goodies!



Cheers


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## spider4re

Please note that Sony has changed the model # for the 960 stand on their website. The new # is su34xbr3 but Sony does make this reference about the new stand:



> Quote:
> Designed to match the KD-34XBR960 (also fits the KV-30XBR910 and KV-34XBR910)



If you find an old one it should fit the 960.



Cheers


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## RJB in Phila

The 960's cablecard allows you to eliminate the set top box from the cable company, right? This assumes they support the cablecard, which I believe Comcast will be doing soon.


If this is so, I find this feature of the 960 to be a great advantage.


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## JamisonBWolsh

Problem is, the Cable card does not support the on-screen guide.... which is a deal breaker for me....


Still buying the XBR 960 though


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## JamisonBWolsh

Does the "New" stand look like the 910 stand? or is it a different design?


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## begkamp10

Could anyone give a short explanation of what the integrated HD tuner means (now and in the future) for me, a DirectTV user (can't give up the NFL ticket)?


If I get DirecTV HD, I need to get their fancy HD dish and some sort of HD-specific STB for DirectTV. Thus, an integrated tuner won't be relevant for me on the DirectTV front (I'm guessing).


However, with the addition of an antenna, would the integrated tuner allow me to pick up the OTA network HD programming, completely separate from whatever is going on with respect to DirecTV? If so, could you (if you're bored) explain how that might work in terms of wiring and the like?


Thanks.


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## Foolius

Would the SU-GW1 stand be able to support the weight of the 960? I know it's not as deep, but this stand seems to be the best one out there when it comes to holding all my components.


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## spider4re




> Quote:
> Could anyone give a short explanation of what the integrated HD tuner means (now and in the future) for me, a DirectTV user (can't give up the NFL ticket)?




You will immediately be able to pick up OTA digital stations in your area. If I'm not mistaken, the new D* HD box will have an integrated tuner thus negating the advantage of the integrated tuner. Who knows which tuner will perform better once you have the chance to do an A/B comparison. With both you will need an antenna and the best source to determine which is best for your area is:


http://www.antennaweb.org










To perform your A/B comparison (which is what I think your asking in your last paragraph) you need to split your antenna feed into your D* box and the antenna input on the 960. From the input selection menu you will be able to switch between the two.


Cheers


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## spider4re

Tomorrow I will post (to the web address at the top of this thread) the new low price of the KD-34xbr960 after I confirm with the dealer the price and details. This deal should set the benchmark.


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## letMeIn

can't wait . Tell him you have a lot of friends that will do business with him..







thx




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by spider4re_
> *Tomorrow I will post (to the web address at the top of this thread) the new low price of the KD-34xbr960 after I confirm with the dealer the price and details. This deal should set the benchmark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


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## foxfan




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by spider4re_
> *You will immediately be able to pick up OTA digital stations in your area. If I'm not mistaken, the new D* HD box will have an integrated tuner thus negating the advantage of the integrated tuner. Who knows which tuner will perform better once you have the chance to do an A/B comparison. With both you will need an antenna and the best source to determine which is best for your area is:
> 
> 
> http://www.antennaweb.org
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To perform your A/B comparison (which is what I think your asking in your last paragraph) you need to split your antenna feed into your D* box and the antenna input on the 960. From the input selection menu you will be able to switch between the two.
> 
> 
> Cheers*



And if one of them would be smart enough to a firewire output you'd be able to watch a show in HD and record one to see later, instead of having to choose which to see in HD and which in crappy video.


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## spider4re

New best price is up. Sorry for the delay.


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## RJB in Phila

Does this dealer have them in stock yet?


I wonder what shipping would be to Philadelphia.


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## spider4re

the dealer does not have them in stock yet but I could suggest two other dealers (both in NJ) that should match that price. Delivery is another story. If you want the info just email me from the website. Don't forget these guys dont charge sales tax.


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## letMeIn

I bought my HS10 from them .. Great people . I guess Ill be buying xbr960 from them as well lool


As for Tax, if I can get the same price from someone in NJ I will go with them . I think shipping charge will be very close to NJ tax .


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## CPanther95

The integrated tuner will also allow HD P-I-P along with your D* box.


Anyone have an "in-store" date yet? Will BB likely carry it or only CC? (I've got a boatload of BB Gift cards I'd like to use)


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## RJB in Phila




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by CPanther95_
> *
> 
> 
> Anyone have an "in-store" date yet? Will BB likely carry it or only CC? (I've got a boatload of BB Gift cards I'd like to use)*



Tweeter said they would be in their warehouse by July 9th. Sonystyle site said they will have them by July 2nd. CC had not a clue.


These are not necessarily in store dates, however.


I doubt BB will carry them because my understanding is they can't carry the XBR line. They never carried the 910. CC has the XBR line, however.


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## JamisonBWolsh

I recently asked Circuit City if I can buy the 960 when it enters their systems. They said I can and I dont have to wait untill it hits their stores....As soon as the 960 clears the warehouse, purchase is viable... I am getting really excited.



Ladies and Gentleman....



LESS THAN A MONTH TO GO!!!!!











I plan to use their 18 month financing deal. How easy is it to get credit from them? I do have Good credit. My annual salary isnt too high though. I was able to get 2200 from best buy though a few years ago...


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## edstalnaker

Does CC have a price yet? It concerns me that since they are giving a free stand away with the 910, but not with the 960, the total price will be the same. So the 960 really isn't cheaper when you look at it that way.


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## RJB in Phila

Jamison, I think they're flexible so long as you haven't stiffed anyone and since they want to sell the TV.


Ed, we probably have to accept the fact that the price of the 910 including freebies will continue to drop as the 960's become available, so the 960 shouldn't be cheaper than the 910 since it has the tuner, etc.


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## edstalnaker

Actually Sony has lowered the MSRP on several of their TVs compared to the previous models. So I think it is reasonable to expect prices to come down even though more features are added. Plus since all TVs above a certain size will need to have the tuner by a certain date, so it makes sense that the per unit cost of such a feature will drop. Anyway, I just wish Sony would continue to include a stand with the 960. Obviously with a TV that heavy, there aren't many other options, which is why I think they started offering the stand with the 910 and 800 originally.


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## Limber

For Canadians who, like me, are interested getting in this TV, I thought I'd relay some unsavoury info I learned today. I talked briefly with a salesman at Fairview Mall's Sony Store in Toronto today, and he is not expecting to receive the XBR960 until November/December. This seems to jive with what I learned today from several other stores in Toronto, most of which had no knowledge about the new model. Not to mention the fact that it isn't listed yet on Sonystyle.ca


I don't know whether or not this has any bearing on the XBR960's expected availability in the US. Either way, for Canadians looking to buy this TV from a local dealer, it looks like it's still a fairly long way off.


*sigh*


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## jkv4

What a small world. I live on the same street as the dealer from New Orleans.


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## JamisonBWolsh

Im not sure about the power requirements, but cant you buy the tv set in America? Toronto is close to the border...


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## Limber

That's definitely something worth looking into, assuming I can get it for less than or equal to the cost of a 910 here. In any case, I just wanted to post my findings for the benefit of others, that's all.


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## spider4re

My dealer in jersey said his dist. was going to have "a few" for him within 10 days. For those of you who pm'd & emailed me, you might want to check to see if you can grab one.



Cheers


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## Tly

As I'm very interested in the 960 I was curious about the "rumor" that HDTV sets make normal cable viewing atrocious since all of the artifacts are way more apparent. Is this true? Would I have to go with digital cable (I have basic cable now) to avoid this?


tks!


Ty


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## spider4re




> Quote:
> As I'm very interested in the 960 I was curious about the "rumor" that HDTV sets make normal cable viewing atrocious since all of the artifacts are way more apparent. Is this true? Would I have to go with digital cable (I have basic cable now) to avoid this?



hopefully this will help alleviate this problem



Digital Reality Creation MultiFunction V1 Circuitry raises standard definition signals to HD quality via a digital bit mapping process, which is user adjustable. The end result? A display of clear, stable images from any video source.


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## beacher




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Limber_
> *For Canadians who, like me, are interested getting in this TV, I thought I'd relay some unsavoury info I learned today. I talked briefly with a salesman at Fairview Mall's Sony Store in Toronto today, and he is not expecting to receive the XBR960 until November/December. This seems to jive with what I learned today from several other stores in Toronto, most of which had no knowledge about the new model. Not to mention the fact that it isn't listed yet on Sonystyle.ca
> 
> 
> I don't know whether or not this has any bearing on the XBR960's expected availability in the US. Either way, for Canadians looking to buy this TV from a local dealer, it looks like it's still a fairly long way off.
> 
> 
> *sigh**



Actually, I was told Sony Canada was very interested in bringing the 960 to Canada in June. However this was contingent on Canadian MSO's willing to support 1-way POD which they are reluctant to do at this time since it would undercut their business model. When 2-way POD rolls out in a year or two we will see such sets on the Canadian market. But for now it looks like us Canadians will have to be content with the 34xs955 which should show up in Canada by October.


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## Segaboy

Does anyone have a picture of the back panel jack-pack???


I think we ALL need to know what kind of Digital Audio output this monitor features (to return to your A/V receiver/Preamp processor).


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## weetoots

Segaboy

I asked that on 6-3 and got no responses. Also someone, on one of the "960" threads, was getting a link to the manual.

I hope our questions are answered very soon.


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## Lurch

Is that $400 Rebate on combined TV/Stereo System purchase good only from SonyStyle.com or from any dealer?


If so, you could get a free theater in a box set with this tv. Are the rest of the sony home theater packages worth the extra money?


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## JamisonBWolsh

Home theater is NOT free. At circuit city, the lowest price model from the list given on the form is $530.00 But you do get a CC gift card....



Here is the form you need to fill out:

https://www.web-rebates.com/sony/pdf/04-B31701.pdf 


It appears that you can go to ANY store. As long as you Buy the xbr960 + one model from a list of models (home theater systems) on the same reciept dated up to aug.30 you will get:


1.) rebate check for $400.00

2.) choice of 4 dvd's valued at $15.00 each

3.) sony backpack valued at $25.00


Looks like this is the ONLY home theater you can get at Circuit city:

http://www.circuitcity.com/detail.js...&oid=76609&m=0


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## weetoots

It would have been nice if Sony had included one of their wireless headphones in the list. Those of us in apartments who can't use speakers setups. Drats!


I live in a retirement community.

Lots of "OF"s.


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## JamisonBWolsh




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by weetoots_
> *It would have been nice if Sony had included one of their wireless headphones in the list. Those of us in apartments can't use speakers setups. Drats!*



Hmmmm... I live in a STUDIO apartment with a Home theater system....


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## Lurch




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by JamisonBWolsh_
> *Home theater is NOT free. At circuit city, the lowest price model from the list given on the form is $530.00 But you do get a CC gift card....
> 
> 
> It appears that you can go to ANY store. As long as you Buy the xbr960 + one model from a list of models (home theater systems) on the same reciept dated up to aug.30
> 
> 
> Looks like this is the ONLY home theater you can get at Circuit city:
> 
> *



That one you linked is the DAVFC8 for $629.99 at Circuit City. It's only $599.95 at SonyStyle.com.


At SonyStyle.com the HT-V2000DP is only $399.95, so at least one option would be free if you bought your TV from Sony. 


CircuitCity also has the HT6600DP for $539.99 plus a 10% Merchandise Card. That system is $599.95 at SonyStyle.


Thanks for the link to the rebate form!


It is too bad the TV and Theater Package have to be on the same receipt. :/


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## JamisonBWolsh

Im think about getting it. I have a home theater from Kenwood that I bought for 275.00. It has great reviews for it. Audio review says it sounds like a $1000 unit... But it is 2 years old and you cant buy it anymore. The sony systems are more expensive, so should be better quality. BUT i have ready many more negative comments then positive from regular consumers. I could not find any profesional reviews for this "dream dvd home theater system" Anyone subscribe to consumer reports? I would love the hear what they think....


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## Segaboy

Does anyone have a diagram or picture of the back panel of the XBR-960?


I want to know if there is some kind of digital audio output, or do we need to use the Firewire to carry Dolby Digital and/or DTS from the monitor to our A/V receiver/preamp?


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## TH3_FRB

Has anyone actually confirmed these sets are/will be available soon? I've read several posts about them shipping in the next couple weeks, but the rep handling my 40xbr800 warranty claim said they will not be available until August...but he did agree to give me the 34" if I'm willing to wait.


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## JamisonBWolsh

Why do you want to start rumors? Your the first guy that said it will be available in Aug. Check the sonystyle website,,, It says on or about July 2nd. Most stores have them in their systems at this point. All evidence suggests July 2nd. So please stop posting the august date on EVERY thread your on....


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## TH3_FRB

I'm not starting rumors. I'm simply reporting information that I was given from a Sony rep regarding the availability of this set and asking if anyone has any additional info. Could it be incorrect...of course. Did I make it up...no. Are you free to believe what you want and disagree...sure are. But I guess since you saw it on the internet it must be true.


I hope they are out July 2 because I'll have mine sooner than I expect, but I won't believe it until someone actually puts their hands on one of these sets. As of now, July 2 is no more valid than August as far as I'm concerned.


Have a great day.


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## JamisonBWolsh

No more valid then august? Lets see... ONE person told you august and that makes it as valid as July? I dont believe EVERYTHING I read on the internet. lets look at FACTS:


Sonystyle (sony's owned website) reports On or about July 2

News report From Sony that says it will be released in June

Model is now in Stores computers (which they say they dont add if it is not going to be released in a week or 2).


Thats my facts... Yours for august:


1.) TELEPHONE rep says August.

Whoop bee doo. Telephone reps dont know everything. I asked my cable company (adelphia) If I can order HDTV srevice. They said yes. So rep started to process the order.. then they said "Im sorry, HDTV will be available in July"


YOUR date is no more valid then, lets say OCT or Dec. If you want us to take your date more seriously, your going to have to provide mode FACTS!!!


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## TH3_FRB

You're convinced that you're right and I'm convinced that nobody will know for sure until they actually ship...hopefully July, maybe not till August. My "telephone rep" is actually a mid-level manager in customer service warranty claims...my claim has been elevated to higher level people several times. But that still doesn't mean the information I was given is correct. Just thought the folks out there would be interested in ALL the available information so they can have an educated opinion of their own.


Thanks for your input, you've been most helpful.


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## Tly

Man, I sure hope they ship soon (July 2 or whatnot). Not trying to add fuel to the fire but I called the Sony Store (for Sony employees) and was told they wouldn't be available for 8 weeks. Now there is certainly a distinct possibility that Sony would place retailers ahead of employees (makes sense imo) so don't take this as an affirmation that the August date is correct for retailers.


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## TH3_FRB

Which is what might be the case for my warranty claim. I could see them putting the retailers ahead of claims for a new product like this. It may be that the sets will ship to stores in early July and then units will be available for other purposes after the initial demand is satisfied.


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## RJB in Phila

Jamison, I think you're being a little hard on TH3. I appreciate any info from all sources, even if it turns out to be wrong, which we all hope it will be.


Thanks for the post, TH3.


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## TH3_FRB

I hope it's bad info also...but as of now it looks like it'll be Aug before I get my replacement...even if they hit the stores sooner. I'm 95% sure I'll just sell it immediately anyway. Anyone want a new 34XBR960 in August for a decent price? I'll personally deliver it free within 200 miles of Norfolk, VA.


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## ONLY SONY

We will start shipping in JULY.


August is to try and let the large "grocery store chains" to close out the XBR910 models left in stock.


The small stores always have the new models first.


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## powerdog

ONLY SONY: The one independent electronics store in my area that carries XBR said they wouldn't have the 960 until mid-August at the earliest. Is it really true that smaller stores get new items first?


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## weetoots

When did CC and BB start selling groceries? If you're referring to the Wally world type stores, then when did they start selling top of the line anything?

I have my doubts about you -ONLY SONY.... Do you represent SONY in some official capacity?

Doesn't matter, I will buy one after they have been out for awhile (read: days/weeks). Sony isn't perfect, like the 40xbr, so I will let you guys be "testers" and then buy accordingly.

Thanks.


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## Phantastica

I ordered mine from the Sony Family Centre (Sony Store for Sony employees only) last week and one guy said it would ship to me in 4-6 weeks and another person said 6-8 weeks. This is coming straight from the warehouse.


I think Sony usually gives a higher priority to retail stores rather than to Sony employees, so we usually have to wait a few extra weeks. The 40% discount makes it worth the wait though. Anyway. that may be an indication that they do indeed plan on shipping the sets out within the next couple of weeks.


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## JamisonBWolsh

Are there any Job openings?


----------



## Tly




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Phantastica_
> *I ordered mine from the Sony Family Centre (Sony Store for Sony employees only) last week and one guy said it would ship to me in 4-6 weeks and another person said 6-8 weeks. This is coming straight from the warehouse.*



Where are you located Phantastica? I called the one in Rancho Bernardo just this morning and was told 2 months - which makes me think about waiting for the Samsung HD2+ chip DLPs. Ah well, guess since I have to wait no matter what (since I decided not to pre-order) it doesn't make much of a difference either way.


----------



## Phantastica




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Tly_
> *Where are you located Phantastica? I called the one in Rancho Bernardo just this morning and was told 2 months - which makes me think about waiting for the Samsung HD2+ chip DLPs. Ah well, guess since I have to wait no matter what (since I decided not to pre-order) it doesn't make much of a difference either way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *



This was in Culver City from the main Sony Pictures lot. I've got my fingers crossed for a 4 week shipping date, but it's not all that likely. Hopefully these won't be nearly as popular as the Grand Wega III's. They stopped taking orders on those because of a 5 month backlog.


----------



## spider4re

Sorry this took so long but I was on vacation. The picture of the stand is posted on the best price website (see the first post of this thread). I do not have dimensions as yet. The diagram of the rear connections is not available until next week(needs to be uploaded to sony's system) but I was told that there are 2 digital outputs for 5.1 (coaxial and optical).












Also, the dealer in NJ said he might be getting a few in THIS week.


----------



## Phantastica

Is that stand seriously the SU-34XBR3?


That would be awesome if it is. The glass doors and everything look really nice. But the description on the sonystyle site says:


- Newly designed open-style stand


That doesn't look "open-style" to me. That's the stand I've ordered though, so I'm really hoping it's the one in the photo on the best price site.


----------



## Stereodude




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Phantastica_
> *Is that stand seriously the SU-34XBR3?
> 
> 
> That would be awesome if it is. The glass doors and everything look really nice. But the description on the sonystyle site says:
> 
> 
> - Newly designed open-style stand
> 
> 
> That doesn't look "open-style" to me. That's the stand I've ordered though, so I'm really hoping it's the one in the photo on the best price site.*



I suspect this is the stand.

http://news.sel.sony.com/digitalimag...hoto_id=158040 It matches the TV and is "open".


----------



## RJB in Phila

Sonystyle now says the 34XBR960 will be available on or around July 16!!


They've pushed it back 2 weeks.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

Or they sold out the first batch available to sonystyle customers......... REMEMBER...there is not a INDEFINATE amount of sets made...


----------



## TH3_FRB

Uh-oh...August isn't that far off. Maybe someone in customer service actually has some relaible info.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

Come on now....July 16 is not AUGUST! Besides ..that cust rep said 6-8 weeks.....


----------



## Phantastica

I'll give the Sony Employee Centre a call tomorrow and see if they've made any changes to my order in the system. They're getting their info from one of the Sony warehouses, so it should be a good indication.


----------



## TH3_FRB

No, it's not August...but someone got all bent when I suggested they might not be available till August. My point here is just that they've adjusted the date half way between the original July 2 and August...another 2 weeks and we're there. The sooner the better, but I',m not holding me breath











> Quote:
> _Originally posted by JamisonBWolsh_
> *Come on now....July 16 is not AUGUST! Besides ..that cust rep said 6-8 weeks.....*


----------



## Phantastica

The set is on backorder for me right now with an eta of 6-8 weeks. If they tell me the same thing in 3 weeks from now then I'll start to worry!


----------



## RJB in Phila

Sonystyle still lists the 34xbr960 as a "pre-order", so I doubt that they've sold out the first batch. Wouldn't they say it was backordered or out of stock if that were the case? I'm not sure. I emailed them to find out if they were sold out of the first batch or if it is a delay in the initial release.


----------



## spider4re

The website (see first post on this thread) now has the rear panel jack pack for viewing. Sorry for the misleading info on the optical out ( I can only blame the technical cs rep )







There is one optical out and 2 i.link outs.


----------



## TH3_FRB

I just checked the site and it still says "on or about July 02"




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by RJB in Phila_
> *Sonystyle now says the 34XBR960 will be available on or around July 16!!
> 
> 
> They've pushed it back 2 weeks.*


----------



## Segaboy

I went to the sight and did not see a link for a picture of the back panel.


As long as the monitor has the Firewire connectors, that is what I will use to 'extract' Dolby Digital and DTS from my Cablecard and DVD player.


----------



## Scrutiny

I've been following this thread for a while...as I'm looking at the various Sony 34" HDTV models and trying to decide which one to get in the next 6 months.


Lately, I'm reconsidering (critically) the new XBR960, and I have some questions as to its superiority over the 910, 510 or 420.


1) The OTA tuner. Big question for me is: will this save me any $$ when I switch to HD DirecTV? Or will I *still* have to purchase a HD tuner to tune the HD satellite signal from the new dish?


2) Does anyone definitely KNOW that the PQ of the XBR960 is improved over the XBR910? I hear murmurings about improved brightness and "2nd gen" Superfine Pitch, but then I hear more murmurings that Sony's hypetalk refers to improvements over the older 800s (not over the 910s)



Anyone's help on these questions would be appreciated. Thank you all.


Because IF I still need an external HD tuner for my satellite feed, then the integrated OTA tuner is not that important to this boy who only watches satellite feed, and honestly couldn't give a hoot about PIP.


And because if PQ isn't noticeably improved over the 910s (hard to even imagine this, except for maybe improved brightness), then what's the big draw?


----------



## Phantastica

Well, it's definitely going to be better than that 510 and 420. As for the 910, I guess we'll see once it comes out, but they should be close. But if you're going by the MRSP, then the 960 actually costs significantly less. If you can wait a few weeks, then I think it would be worth it to go for the 960. At the least, you'll get a few more nice features than you would with the 910.


----------



## foxfan




> Quote:
> Because IF I still need an external HD tuner for my satellite feed, then the integrated OTA tuner is not that important to this boy who only watches satellite feed, and honestly couldn't give a hoot about PIP.



What makes you think that 2 or 3 years down the road you won't want to ditch satellite to go back to digital cable? You'll need that internal tuner then. Think about the future!


----------



## TH3_FRB

HD DirectTV tuners will also handlke OTA HD signals. But as foxfan stated, if you drop Direct TV, the tuner is gone. And, over the next year or so most of the high end sets coming out will have integrated tuners so you'll actually be in the minority before long.



> Quote:
> _Originally posted by foxfan_
> *What makes you think that 2 or 3 years down the road you won't want to ditch satellite to go back to digital cable? You'll need that internal tuner then. Think about the future!*


----------



## RJB in Phila




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by TH3_FRB_
> *I just checked the site and it still says "on or about July 02"*



It said July 16 yesterday and this morning, but they've changed it back to July 2. Now I'm really confused.


----------



## CPanther95

Anyone have any suggestions on how to get a 40" base height to hold this TV? I have to clear the footboard of a sleigh bed (oak), and I'm planning on placing it right at the foot of the bed. I can either use the stand and put it on some kind of platform, or get some piece of furniture that is 40" tall that is strong enough and deep enough to hold the 960.


Any ideas?


----------



## Sizam

The newly posted manual made no mention of a OTA HDTV receiver, did they just not metion it so as to not confuse the average schmoe? Pictures of channels in the manual displayed "23.1" which suggests HD but... Can't wait to stick my HDTiVo into that loverly HDMI port


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

They LOVE to confuse us!!!!!


----------



## BrewerBob




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Sizam_
> *The newly posted manual made no mention of a OTA HDTV receiver, did they just not metion it so as to not confuse the average schmoe? Pictures of channels in the manual displayed "23.1" which suggests HD but... Can't wait to stick my HDTiVo into that loverly HDMI port
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *



Take a look at page 9


"Built-in Digital Television Receiver: You can watch digital television programs and enjoy the improved audio/video quality offered by these programs. With high-definition signal reception, you can watch TV signals broadcast in HDTV for the clearest possible broadcast picture. "


BrewerBob


----------



## Sizam

Thank you!


----------



## RJB in Phila

Now I'm really, REALLY confused about the release date. Here is what I got back in answer to my email questions to Sonystyle about the 960 release date:


"The release date of the KD-34XBR960 television has been postponed. The

KD-34XBR960 television will be available for shipping on or about Jul

16, 2004. This model is available for pre-ordering."


----------



## TH3_FRB

The Sony Style page no longer has the mention of "pre-order" but after adding it to your cart you see the message "Shipping date not available. We will notify you by email when this product has shipped"


Seems to say that they are ready to go, since it's no longer a pre-order, but also that they don't know when it will be ready to go...all at the same time












> Quote:
> _Originally posted by RJB in Phila_
> *Now I'm really, REALLY confused about the release date. Here is what I got back in answer to my email questions to Sonystyle about the 960 release date:
> 
> 
> "The release date of the KD-34XBR960 television has been postponed. The
> 
> KD-34XBR960 television will be available for shipping on or about Jul
> 
> 16, 2004. This model is available for pre-ordering."*


----------



## High Def 03

This reminds me of last year i waited and waited for the 910 it finally came out the first week in August and the first store to get it was Circuit City and by the way they went down on the tv after a litlle haggeling.


----------



## Sizam

So how would I go about hooking up my PC to this here TV, I have a nVidia card with DVI out but would consider getting a ATI 9800 Pro if that'd make things easier.


----------



## edstalnaker

I was at Circuit City a few days ago and they told me that their contract with Sony prevents them from negotiating on the prices of the XBR line. I take it they were feeding me a bunch of crap?


Also, since XBRs come with a 2-year warranty, does it make sense to purchase an extended one?


----------



## High Def 03

ya that sounds like a bunch of crap they will go down on the price just make sure to only deal with a manager not a kid who has been there 5 minutes. As far as the warranty i didnt think it was worth it sony's warranty is plenty.


----------



## Rizzle

I pre-ordered my 34XBR960 from SonyStyle the day they started accepting pre-orders. I called customer service today and the guy said mine would be shipping on or around July 2nd. He said I was in the first batch of preorders. He said that the pre-order list for the second batch (expected to ship July 16th or so) was quickly filling and that the next batch would not be available until at least mid-August. He said some retail outlets would not be getting any sets until the third batch. So happy I preordered early.


----------



## High Def 03

I was just at cc and they said they will have it next week at 2099.99


----------



## Sizam

Ooohhh, 2099 would be nice, GG oughta match that fer me too, was that a negotiated price or did they say thats how much they'll be? FWIW my 34XBR800 died after 2.5 years AND the warranty from Sony covers far less then an extended warranty and when I was dealing with GG I could just go over and harras them, good luck getting that kind of support from god-knows-where on a 200lb TV. This is the only type of thing I'd ever buy an extended warranty on.


----------



## High Def 03

that was the regular price i also asked why the 910 was still 2399 he said that was already discounted. i think with a little haggeling you can probally get the 960 for under 2 k


----------



## edstalnaker

With a free stand?


----------



## Rizzle

I went ahead and bought the XBR1 stand for the 910 to use with my 960. It matches the 960's colors and since the 910 and 960 use the same cabinet, it works no prob. The only major difference between the new XBR3 stand for the 960 and XBR1 is the XBR1 only have one shelf and (most importantly) its $200 cheaper than the XBR3. I bought an SU-XBR1 at Circuit City for $149.00, the XBR3 is $349.99 at Sonystyle.com.


----------



## High Def 03

he didnt mention a stand but you could probally have them through one in for that price.


----------



## igreg

I plan to wait untill CC has the XBR 960. Why? Becaue of its excellent return policy. With Sonystyle.com you would be responsible for shipping both to and from your residence, plus restocking fees may apply (let alone the problem of getting that monster to UPS or wherever).


For something so subjective and unknown as televison picture quality (both in HDTV, and, especially with non-HDTV signals, where some have criticized the 910 at least), I definintely want the option for a no questions return like CC offers. Others?


----------



## TH3_FRB

I see no reason to buy from the Sony Style site (unless you already have a pre-order in and just can't wait another month for them to hit the showrooms). Only reason I'd buy online is to take advangate of discounted prices...understanding that you would still have the same issues to deal with regarding a return. Also be aware that tis set is too large and heavy for either UPS or FedEx...I've already done the homework. You'll need to get a freight carrier to handle any return. Luckily, the XBR series comes with a 2-year in-home warranty as long as you purchase from an authorized dealer. Use your AMEX and the warranty is automatically extended an additional year...identical coverage to the original.


----------



## edstalnaker

Do any other credit cards extend your warranty like this?


----------



## TH3_FRB

Not sure. You'd have to check with the individual card but I believe Visa has something similar...although I'd guess 95% of the general public isn't aware of this feature. Here's the AMEX link:

Buyer's Assurance


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

How did you get the XBR1 for $149? I just bought mine a week ago for $199. I Just went there yesterday and it is still listed for 199. I am in CA at the local CC...


----------



## TH3_FRB

Looks like Visa offers extended warranties for a fee...could be reasonable depending on the product...but remember that they start at the date of product purchase...so a 3 year extended warranty ($165) would only give you 1 year past the Sony warranty on the XBR, but the same would be free if you used AMEX.

Visa extended warranties


----------



## foxfan

I would prefer to buy the XBR1 stand as well since I don't like the glass doors on the XBR3. I wonder if I can ask them to give me a free XBR1 stand when I buy the 960, or buy one now cheap in advance.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

CC did NOT offer any me any discounts even when I offered to buy their extended warranty what can they give me in discounts. They refused to give anything. No free delivery No free Xbr1 stand. So I told them that I wont buy their warranty.


----------



## RJB in Phila

That's good news, High Def. Where are you located?



> Quote:
> I was just at cc and they said they will have it next week at 2099.99


----------



## RJB in Phila

This is a quote from the Visa link TH3 provided:


"Once your claim has been verified, the item will be repaired or replaced at the sole option of the insurance provider, but for no more than the original purchase price of the covered item, up to a maximum of $10,000, as recorded on your Visa card receipt, and $50,000 maximum per cardholder.


Extended Warranty Protection will pay the facility directly for repairs, if possible, or you may go to an authorized repair facility and file a claim for reimbursement. Only valid and reasonable repairs made at the manufacturer's authorized repair facility are covered."


This seems to imply you have to take the TV to a repair facility - no house call repairs?


----------



## RJB in Phila

I just pre-ordered the 960 from CC. They had it in their system but admitted they weren't sure when it would be in stock. The guy I talked to knew all about it and was very helpful. He was an assistant manager or something at one of their bigger stores.


I can cancel the order at any time (and even return it within 30 days), and I will if Tweeters or someone has it in stock before I can get it from them.


The price was better than Sonystyle. I got free delivery in exchange for buying the 5 year warranty. PM me if you want to know the price.


They said they believed the warranty was only one year on the new model versus 2 years for the 910.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

I canceled my Pre-order. Here is why. The return policy is 30 days from the date on the receipt. Thats official. They told me that they understand that you dont have the set yet and they would start the date whenyou get the set. This is just verbal. If anything does happen to the set and its after the 30 days date on the reciept they can LEGALLY deny return or exchange.


These days, a persons "word" is meaningless. You need it written down.


As for the delivery. The Normal "white glove" delivery is $40. You saved 40.00. But you could have bought the warranty through warrantech (even better warranty) for less money. Warrantech warranty starts after the Manufactorers warranty. Making this 4 year warranty to a 6 year warranty. The warranty on the 960 is actually 2 years like the 910... NOT 1 year...


Also...Just to let you know. In order for CC to pre-order your Set, they have to deliver it to the store first! Then they will deliver it your house. It will not go from the warehouse to your house. This add additional handling which can cause problems...


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

I am waiting when we KNOW when the set is coming out. July 2 or July 16 is most likely.


CC deal is Now 21 months 0% and NO monthly payment if you buy the Dream theater. Remember there is a rebate on the home theater for $400 plu 4 free dvd's and a backpack...


----------



## edstalnaker

How much is the Dream Theater? Is it any good?


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

They have different models The MSRP range from 399-799. Each system have different types of configurations. Check cc for prices. The 6600DP MSRP is 599 and sells less than that at CC. Minus the 400 rebate and you got a good deal. the 6600dp comes with a progressive 5 disc dvd that is rated high on quality....


----------



## RJB in Phila

Jamison, I am happy with the price I got, plus if I don't get it within the 30 days, I'll probably cancel.


I did not like the mixed opinions I heard about Warrantech. I feel better with the CC warranty. Just my opinion, of course. Yours may differ.


----------



## RJB in Phila

Has anyone found it in writing whether the 960 warranty is one year or two years?


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

Every warranty company has "Mixed" reviews. Just check the Newsgroups on dissatified CC and best buy customers. Warrantech does not have nearly as much naysayers as the plan CC has which is honored by the company "National Product Care Company" Also, Warrantech is one of the biggest warranty companies out there and has warranties on pretty much anything. I am going with them because of their praised warranty. remember, CC does not run the warranty... a THIRD party company does... Also remember that most of the Money that you spend for their warranty goes in their pockets. The Actual price of the CC warranty is really low...


----------



## Rizzle




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by RJB in Phila_
> *Has anyone found it in writing whether the 960 warranty is one year or two years?*



It's on the Sonystyle web site. Televisions->Tube->XBR




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by JamisonBWolshi]
> *How did you get the XBR1 for $149? I just bought mine a week ago for $199. I Just went there yesterday and it is still listed for 199. I am in CA at the local CC...*
> _


_


It was an open box deal from their home theater room. I had them take it out from under a 910. No scratches, perfect._


----------



## TH3_FRB

All XBR sets have a 2-year warranty...at least new models...can't speak for older stuff except the 40XBR800 that I bought last year also has 2 years.




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by RJB in Phila_
> *Has anyone found it in writing whether the 960 warranty is one year or two years?*


----------



## TH3_FRB

Very possible with Visa. AMEX, however, extends the original warranty terms so if the set came with in-home service then that's what you get under the extension.



> Quote:
> _Originally posted by RJB in Phila_
> *This is a quote from the Visa link TH3 provided:
> 
> 
> "Once your claim has been verified, the item will be repaired or replaced at the sole option of the insurance provider, but for no more than the original purchase price of the covered item, up to a maximum of $10,000, as recorded on your Visa card receipt, and $50,000 maximum per cardholder.
> 
> 
> Extended Warranty Protection will pay the facility directly for repairs, if possible, or you may go to an authorized repair facility and file a claim for reimbursement. Only valid and reasonable repairs made at the manufacturer's authorized repair facility are covered."
> 
> 
> This seems to imply you have to take the TV to a repair facility - no house call repairs?*


----------



## foxfan

Anyone know of a warranty company with worldwide coverage?


Sony Canada has confirmed to me that they won't be carrying the 960 so I'll have to buy it in the U.S. I know BB covers worldwide but doesn't have XBRs. Which one does?


----------



## spider4re

SONY CUSTOMER SERVICE EMAILED ME THE NEW PICTURE OF THE SU34XBR3. THE PICTURE POSTED BEFORE WAS FROM THE ASIAN MODEL WHICH HAS NOW BEEN CHANGED. THE NEW PICTURE OF THE THE U.S. MODEL IS AT THE BOTTOM OF THIS PAGE:

http://www.geocities.com/kd34xbr960/...br960page.html 



THE REAR JACK PANEL PICTURE IS ALSO AT THE BOTTOM OF THE PAGE.


----------



## spider4re

I just received an email that the site is temporarily down due to too much traffic. I have instead attached (I think) the photo they sent me.


----------



## edstalnaker

That looks like the hold stand.


----------



## edstalnaker

I mean "old" stand.


----------



## weetoots

YUK, I like the Asian model. Why do they keep the best over there? If you go to www.Sony.JP, you will see that they sell XBR's up to 36", and don't sell the 34" in Japan. Why?


----------



## Stereodude




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by weetoots_
> *YUK, I like the Asian model. Why do they keep the best over there? If you go to www.Sony.JP, you will see that they sell XBR's up to 36", and don't sell the 34" in Japan. Why?*



Their 36" is our 34". They measure the tube. We measure the opening in the bezel.


----------



## Stereodude




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by spider4re_
> *I just received an email that the site is temporarily down due to too much traffic. I have instead attached (I think) the photo they sent me.*



That's the stand I posted pictures weeks ago.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

So whats the Lesson boys and girls?


Go buy the XBR1 on sale before the XBR3 comes out! Save you Lots of $$$


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

Back to this shipping date:


Shipping availability:

Available on or about Jul 16, 2004


----------



## Rizzle

I've been told that the first batch (to be shipped around July 2nd) is sold out and that SonyStyle is now selling the second batch due for delivery on the 16th.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

Will CC and others get shipment with the first batch?

Should I pre-order From CC or wait untill it hits their warehouse?


So many questions....


----------



## RJB in Phila

I got a call from Tweeters today saying they expected to get them in within the next 2 weeks. CC also expected them in "soon" but didn't have an exact date.


I think it's still uncertain exactly when they will come in, although both seemed confident it would be "soon." I know it's frustratingly imprecise.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

RJB,


I know you pre-ordered yours from CC. Do you think its a concern to be shipped from the warehouse to the store then to your house? Or do you think I should just wait until it hits the warehouse? Do you think this tv is going to be hard to get when it hits the warehouse or easy? If it's easy, i will wait... so...what do you think? Hard to get when it hits the warehouses?


----------



## RJB in Phila

Jamison, the guy at CC who seemed to be experienced and knew about the 960 (unlike a lot of these salesmen) told me it might be shipped before they are stocked in the stores, because they have to make room for them, set them up, etc. I would guess (but it's only a guess) that they won't sell out their whole stock in the first week or so, so if you're not in a hurry, you could probably wait and even see it in the store.


Do CC delivery crews work out of the warehouses or the stores. My salesmen said it may not come through his store to be delivered. Did he mean it might be delivered from another store (there is a smaller one closer to me) or the warehouse? I will try to ask that question when I talk to them again.


I know these things get moved around from Sony to the warehouse to the store, but if all TV's get shipped from the stores, it doesn't matter whether I order it from the store or on-line, does it? Or do you think the online purchases get shipped from the warehouse and store purchases get shipped from the stores? With my pre-order, I don't know if it will hit the store or not.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

I think I will go back and buy it today. The ship date most likely is July 2nd. The deal is just too good. 0% and no payments for 21 months (march 2006) with the purchase of a HTIB (400 rebate on that). Sounds great, so I will purchase it today and start the Legal 30 day countdown for CC return policy. I just wish we can truely find out when this deal expires... I would wait if I knew I could get this deal at a later point.



The CC salesman tells me that they order the sets through their warehouse, not there store. So their stock inside the store is extremely low on sets.

I guess that would make sense if there are many CC in a given area. Saves $$ for CC .


----------



## igreg

I SAW THE XBR 910 TODAY AT GOODGUYS GREAT PICTURE IN HDTV; HOWEVER, WHEN I HAD THE SALESMAN SWITCH TO COMCAST CABLE, THE PICTURE WAS POOR. WE BOTH AGREED THE PICTURE WAS FUZZY, AND EVEN THAT THE EDGE BETWEEN THE PICTURE AND THE BLACK BARS FRAMING IT WAS TILTED INWARD; A CONCAVE SHAPE. DESPITE THE GREAT HDTV PICTURE, I WOULD HATE TO HAVE TO WATCH ALL NON-HDTV TELEVISION ON THIS SET.


NOT MY OPINON ALONE, IF YOU CHECK THE REVIEWS ON HTTP://WWW.CNET.COM YOU WILL SEE MANY POSTERS CLAIMING THE IMAGE ON NON-HDTV BROADCASTS IN NOT GOOD. OPINIONS? THANKS.


----------



## weetoots

igreg,

I see you are a new member, welcome.

Please do not use capital letters for your post. It is the same as shouting or yelling at us.

Al


----------



## Phantastica

Funny you should mention that. I was in a decent home theatre store today and they had a 34xbr910 next to a 34hs420 and the 34hs420 (although it was clearly in torch mode) seemed quite a bit sharper than the xbr910. This certainly isn't what I would expect, especially with the xbr's super-fine pitch screen. But I could definitely see a lot more detail on the non-xbr set.


I tried the different presets (I remember reading that high brightness/contrast lowers the sharpness on the xbr) but it didn't help.


This was on a Hi-Def feed too. What gives?


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

This is not just This HDTV set. Its ALL hdtv sets! HDTV sets, in general, do not do well with Standard cable. The 960 actual enhances this so the standard cable actually looks better than what a regular set would look like.


I do not know what you are talking about with cnet. They actually gave the 910 the Number 1 spot as the best HDTV set on the market...

http://reviews.cnet.com/Sony_KV-34XB...-30536650.html 

Most poeple LOVE this set. The FEW (only 2 out of 34) people that mention the PQ of the 910 to an older set just plain do not know what they talking about. They are comparing the 910 to an NON hdtv set for standard cable. The 910 is not made for standard cable.


Keep in mind the 960 has worked out all of these kinks.


1.) preset memory or each input.

2.) increases standard PQ to better pq (some say, better then a regular set)


many more smaller improvements.


----------



## Phantastica

I'm just saying that I saw it side-by-side with a 34hs420 and the hs420 was quite a bit sharper. The image on the xbr910 looked smooth.


This could have been for any number of reasons (poor calibration, different cables, etc.), but it was quite noticeable. The skin tones looked a lot better on the xbr than anything else in the store though!


----------



## Rizzle

MY KD-34XBR960 HAS LEFT THE SONYSTYLE WAREHOUSE!!!!!



> Quote:
> Thank you for your purchase
> 
> at Sony.
> 
> 
> Steve,
> 
> 
> To check your order status: http://www.sonystyle.com/orderstatus
> 
> The following items have been shipped:
> 
> 
> Order Number: #SW---------------(# removed by me)
> 
> 
> Product: KD-34XBR960
> 
> Qty: 1
> 
> Description: 34â?? Super Fine Pitch™ XBR Television
> 
> Date Shipped: 06/26/04
> 
> Shipping Status:
> 
> Shipper: NVCC




Sweet 2nd-gen SuperFinePitch CRT, I eagerly await your arrival.


----------



## powerdog

Does anyone know what kind of signal is typically fed to the TVs at CC?


----------



## igreg

I thought that I might get bombarded for having used capital letters; I know it's not proper, but I accidently had the caps lock on and didn't feel it was necessary to retype the entire message. Hope you weren't too offended.


Back to my point...........for those that say HDTV sets are not meant for non-HDTV displays. I have yet to see non-HDTV dispays on most of the sets; if they are as bad as the XBR 910, I will be putting off an HDTV purchase for some time. I'll have to bring a DVD recorded disk off DirecTV and try it on the various plasma and direct view CRT sets and see if any can scale the image to where it can at least match my current fine picture on my 27" Proton set, from which I can receive up to 550i with DirecTV. I have read columns by "experts" who claim that 1024i sets are worse on non-HDTV soures because more scaling has to be done; these same sources say an EDTV actually gives you better image quaility with either DVD or standard definition.


For the poster that didn't believe that CNET reviewers criticized the XBR 910's non-HDTV performance, here are the quotes directly:


1)


Call me inexperienced or impatient with this generation of CRT, but I could not after 4 weeks get a picture to look anywhere near as good as a Sony 32" (kv-32xbr96s) I bought EIGHT years ago. I must note that I only connected a progressive-scan dvd player (Sony's own DVP-NC555ES). All of the presets looked horrible. I had to adjust the settings EVERY TIME for every different dvd I loaded in, which was very inconvenient. I had to turn the picture and brightness levels nearly all the way up to achieve a halfway decent picture. The best modes were either Movie or Pro. I hooked a videogame console up to it and it looked horrific. The images were blurry, snowy - not sharp and clean at all. I attempted to increase resolution somewhat by bringing in the edges (horizontal and vertical overscan) by accessing the service menu. Again, hardly any improvement. The DRC Palette controls are a joke. I could make out hardly any changes in picture quality no matter how far in any direction I adjusted. Again, this for me was a HUGE disappointment. I ended up returning the set with a new found appreciation of my OLD Trinitron XBR2.


2) When watch 4:3 ratio source, the image can be fuzzy wether is from DVD or TV. Moreover, when play some (not all) wide screen DVD, for some reason, the images is not as sharp as I would hoped for.


3) The HD picture is awesome!! However, any analog signal (show) still looks pretty bad, and that is not in comparison to HD, but rather, in comparison to my other Sony.


4. Regular programming is nothing to write home about, but the HD is incredible!


5. One catch...this TV is not made for non-HD broadcasts.


6. Regular over the air, and Standard Dish signal does not look good.


7. I will concede that analog broadcasts do not look as good as hoped.


8. The analog reception on this set is not as good as it is on my 36 in Sony.


9. I'm just an average viewer. I have a 32 inch Sony which I love. I've had the XBR910 almost a week and the set is easy to use and has some good features. But all I am doing is constantly adjusting this set. The picture on a regular TV station is HORRIFIC!! Some stations are clear (somewhat) and others are terrible! I keep trying to adjust, and it is annoying. I'm visiting the retailer (Tweeter) this week to see if this is my set or if this is to be expected. All I know is that my regular Sony never needs adjustment and every TV station looks the same. That can't be said of this set. I had a non-progressive scan DVD hooked up and picture was not cystal clear. I bought a low-end progressive scan DVD player with component video hook-ups and the picture showed little-to-no change. Taking that back today to see if a higher end player will make a difference. I compared the same movie on my 32 inch Sony and the clarity is better. I don't know if this is just a bad set or if this is what should be expected. This set is just too high maintenace for me. I can't stand the thought that I paid $2250 and anything other than a close-up shot of people looks horrible. The DRC settings are pretty useless. Little change between them and, honestly, I'm tired of tweeking this thing all of the time. If something changes drastically (like this set gets repaired) I'll provide an update. I have 60 days to return it and I'm seriously thinking of doing that except for the fact that I have to pack it back up and cart the 200 lb monster back to the store.


Are these reviewers all mistaken? If not, can you really justify spending the $ for this set when you are limited to a 28" poor non-HDTV signal with uneven edges. The HDTV picture was fantastic, but unless the standard picture with DirecTV is at least on par with my current set, I can not justify the purchase at any price. Perhaps DirecTV's great image quality will make the difference over the cable version I saw today. Further, the signal may not have been pristine, or the store may not be using the best connection (S-Video).


Appreciate anyone with personal experience on receiving non-HDTV signals on this set. For me at least, this is the deal breaker on this set. Thanks!


----------



## RJB in Phila




> Quote:
> MY KD-34XBR960 HAS LEFT THE SONYSTYLE WAREHOUSE!!!!!



Rizzle, let us know when you get it! I'm amazed it's being sent out before 7/2. Did they give you a tracking number so you can confirm it was shipped out?


How long ago did you put your order in?


----------



## JamisonBWolsh




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by RJB in Phila_
> *Rizzle, let us know when you get it! I'm amazed it's being sent out before 7/2. Did they give you a tracking number so you can confirm it was shipped out?
> 
> 
> How long ago did you put your order in?*



Getting excited about your Order RJB? CC should be getting them soon as well.. Today i am going to pre-order it. I wonder when the general public will get this set... soon I hope


----------



## Rizzle

Yes, I got a tracking number. No updates on their shipping tracker, it won't be updated until Monday. I preordered it on June 1st on SonyStyle.com. Does anyone know where the SonyStyle warehouse is located.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

So dont buy it IGREG.. sony wont go out of business because of you. You still fail to realize the 960 has been updated. Standard cable should look BETTER on this set then even a Non-hdtv.


Do you think most of those people commenting read this forum? I bet not. I also bet that they did not go out and buy the Avia or DVE dvd to calibrate this set. Most newer sets need calibration.


The 960 can now store preset settings for each input. That voids half of those comments. The other half is void by the new tech in the 960 to increase standard cable.


This "Igreg" person is new. Perhaps a Panasonic TROLL???


----------



## spongebob

So, where are you seeing that SD is improved on this set? I agree about non-hd material on a HD set. Even on a $16,000 Runco Plasma, HD=stunning SD= Crap










bob


----------



## JamisonBWolsh




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by spongebob_
> *So, where are you seeing that SD is improved on this set? I agree about non-hd material on a HD set. Even on a $16,000 Runco Plasma, HD=stunning SD= Crap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> bob*



From the sonystyle webpage:


"Digital Reality Creation MultiFunction V1 Circuitry raises standard definition signals to HD quality via a digital bit mapping process, which is user adjustable. The end result? A display of clear, stable images from any video source."


----------



## spongebob

I sure hope so










bob


----------



## RJB in Phila




> Quote:
> Yes, I got a tracking number. No updates on their shipping tracker, it won't be updated until Monday. I preordered it on June 1st on SonyStyle.com. Does anyone know where the SonyStyle warehouse is located.



Thanks, Rizzle. Congratulations on probably getting one of the first available.


Yes, Jamison, I am getting anxious. I can't wait. I hope you get yours soon also.


----------



## BloatedCorpse

..guy at tweeter checked their computer in a nearby burb of chicago, said the 960 will be at his store july 7th...my 960 is on order from sony for a replacement, so anytime before the end of august and I'll be happy...right now I'm convincing my wife she doesn't need comcast's on-screen guide so i can get the cablecard instead...it's an uphill battle (as most of them are with her)..teehee


----------



## TH3_FRB

DRC is NOT new...maybe new to the 34" models but my 40XBR800 has DRC and overall it's not terribly impressive. If you're counting on DRC to solve the poor SD issue on HD sets then you might want to wait untill you can see one in the stores before you hand over $2000.


Interesting how some folks are so adamantly defending the virtues of a set that hasn't been seen or reviewed yet and relying on Sony's own marketing material as their support








Of course Sony is going to claim it's an improvement over the previous model. I hope the 960 is a significant improvement, but I think I'll reserve my judgement untill I can actually form an objective opinion.


Happy to hear that the sets are actually starting to ship as scheduled...keep us updated Rizzle.



> Quote:
> _Originally posted by JamisonBWolsh_
> *From the sonystyle webpage:
> 
> 
> "Digital Reality Creation MultiFunction V1 Circuitry raises standard definition signals to HD quality via a digital bit mapping process, which is user adjustable. The end result? A display of clear, stable images from any video source."*


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

No Doubt TH3.... Marketing?Maybe..most likely not though. The 910 was a breakthrough on the widescreen tv set industry. It blew away all the competitors. Most websites list the 910 as the #1 set. Will the 960 replace the 910 as the BEST Hdtv out there? Yes! Many of the features that the 910 lacked, the 960 improved and then some.


Im sure the DRC may not be perfect, hence the reason its user adjustable. Once calibrated, this set will look amazing on Standard cable.


I see you bought a 40xbr800. I heard about that monster. Thats why they are not releasing a updated model. Your hopes was dashed when you bought that set. AND thats why you are so doubtfull on the ability of the 960. You spent all that money and now comes something SO MUCH better. Stop being envious. You should have done your homework before you bought that 4:3 set.


Well, my friend, please refrain your negative comments (not proven) to another thread.


We KNOW, once calibrated properly, the 910 is a stunning set. The 960 is an IMPROVEMENT on this model. 'NUFF SAID.


PS:Sony does not have to claim anything. Just download the manual and you will see for yourself all the improvements. This is not FICTION. Its Fact. Its not marketing, its Reality. The 960 is an updated version of the 910. we know how great that set it. We will NOT be let down on this amazing set when it comes out.


PPS: Whats all these threads that you start about dissing the 960? From comparisons to release dates... come on now, stop dissing the 960! Im starting to smell a TROLL....


----------



## TH3_FRB

I don't believe I've ever "dissed" the 960 or 910. In fact, I can pull up a thread where I suggested that the 960 would be the best tube Sony has ever made and just might be the finest display of any type on the market once it is released. My point was simply that if you are expecting DRC to be the SD savior then you might want to wait and check it out for yourself before you committ to an opinion. The 960 is indeed an upgrade to a fine HD tube and the many improvements are listed in the manual as you have pointed out. But as I've said before, I'll reserve judgement until I see how those improvements translate from paper to the reality of PQ.


My only real concern with your statements is where you say "Once calibrated, this set will look amazing on Standard cable." That is a very bold statement indeed since no other HD display that I'm aware of has ever been able to pull this off...although "amazing" is a matter of opinion. I for one hope you are right, but again, I can't start preaching it until I see it for myself. Please don't misconstrue my statements as bashing the 960, I'm simply maintaining an open mind and waiting for Sony to prove that the 960 is everything they claim it will be. I hope that you are right and the dream of great SD PQ on an HD display becomes a reality. I'll be happy to admit that you were right all along.


Yes, I have a 40XBR800. My disappointment has nothing to do with the PQ...it's fantastic on DVD, HD, and most other digital content. some SD and especially analog leaves something to be desired, but that's the case with most HD displays on the market. I am one of the unfortunate ones to have the color impurity "green blob" issue, otherwise I'd be completely satisfied with the set. I did indeed do my homework and decided to take a chance with the 40XBR800 since it would be the right set for me as long as the color purity problems didn't come my way (and I got called on that one). I'd get great 40" 4:3 content and still have a 37" 16:9 display for HD and DVD...best of both worlds considering how much SD we still watch at this point. I never considered the 910 because it is too small for my situation, so no, I'm not at all envious. I actually have a 34XBR960 on the way as replacement for the 40". Yes, it's still too small but I figured it would be easier to sell a new model that I hope will be the best on the market (not to mention 100lbs lighter







) than another 40".


I don't have a problem with you or your opinions, I just think that you are absolutely certain of something that is uncertain until proven. Will the 960 be an inprovement over a fine tube...certainly. Will the 960 have better SD PQ than previous sets and maybe all other sets on the market...probably. Will the 960 be the ultimate HD tube and satisfy us in every way...probably not but I'd be happy to be proven wrong. Only time will tell.


----------



## bsd107

I'm not having any luck getting a KD34XBR960 ordered in San Diego.


I've been to two CC's, and while they have a price in their system significantly lower than SonyStyle, they aren't showing any warehouse stock or an ETA. At both CC's I went to, the sales people didn't show any interest in letting me pre-order, and insisted that I couldn't order one until they showed stock in a warehouse. They also had never heard of this TV, and had no clue as to when they would ever arrive.


I visited one GG, which would allow a pre-order, and expected company stock in early July (they could actually pull up and show me the total number on order for the whole company). However, they didn't have a lower price than SonyStyle. They also would not price-match CC's price because CC doesn't have the TV in stock yet.


I visited one Best Buy, and they do not carry XBR. They could pull it up in their system (quoted same price as SonyStyle), but insisted that they could not actually sell them.


So, I'm basically stuck in a holding pattern. I want to order the TV now, at the CC price, but can't seem to get it done.... Frustrating!


----------



## Joxer

Check at Frys, they carry Sony XBRs and price-match.


----------



## bsd107




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Joxer_
> *Check at Frys, they carry Sony XBRs and price-match.*



Thanks for the idea. But I think they have a restocking fee, which is a killer issue for me.


CC and GG have a no restocking fee 30-day return policy.


I don't plan on returning the TV, but as this will by first 16:9 TV, I want to be able to return it if neccessary. I've agonized for a year as to whether it would be better to get 4:3 or 16:9, I fully understand the tradeoffs, and I've decided on 16:9. But, I want to be able to return it with no hassles if I get it home and on 4:3 material on it drives my family crazy, or it's too small for my room, etc. [Please, I'm not trying to drive this thread to an aspect format or screen size debate - there are plenty of other threads on that...]


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

At first circuit city would not pre-order for me eithor. Their system will not allow you to order the set untill it his their warehouse. Their is a loophole however that both I and RJB used. Convince the saleman to have the set shipped to the store and then delivered to your house. By doing this, you CAN pre-order it. When I first tried to pre0order the salesman said I cant do that. I talked to the manager and he told me the only way you can preorder is to ship it to the store first.. Try that. Should work. IMO CC should be getting the set VERY soon. Sony started to ship the set to sonystyle customers already.


Hurray up though has 2 deals about to expire July 1.


1.) 0% percent and No payments untill March 2006- apply for the sony card through CC. (You have to buy a HTIB with this offer. BUT sony sends you a rebate form worth $400)


2.)0% for 18 months.


----------



## ONLY SONY

THAT MEANS THE FIRST 16 WILL BE HERE BY THURSDAY!!!


TO EVERYONE ON THE LIST, I WILL BE CONTACTING YOU SOON FOR SHIPPING THESE OUT TO YOU BEFORE CC GETS IT IN STOCK!!


TODAY IS A GREAT MONDAY ALREADY.


----------



## edstalnaker

Can someone tell me the difference in quality between the various HTIB systems that are available? I was originally thinking about upgrading my home theater with an Onkyo TX-SR601 receiver, an HSU VTF-2 subwoofer, and speakers from Ascend Acoustics. Would one of these HTIB system approach what I was planning to get in sound quality?


----------



## JamisonBWolsh




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by ONLY SONY_
> *THAT MEANS THE FIRST 16 WILL BE HERE BY THURSDAY!!!
> 
> 
> TO EVERYONE ON THE LIST, I WILL BE CONTACTING YOU SOON FOR SHIPPING THESE OUT TO YOU BEFORE CC GETS IT IN STOCK!!
> 
> 
> TODAY IS A GREAT MONDAY ALREADY.*



Unless your a rep at CC (which your not).. How would you know? Your a merchant against CC. CC and Sony both have an agreement. Logically speaking CC and you should get the set the same time.... which means CC should get it on Thursday or sooner! ( Im hoping)


----------



## ONLY SONY

I have several ex-employees that work at CC..


----------



## RJB in Phila




> Quote:
> Can someone tell me the difference in quality between the various HTIB systems that are available? I was originally thinking about upgrading my home theater with an Onkyo TX-SR601 receiver, an HSU VTF-2 subwoofer, and speakers from Ascend Acoustics. Would one of these HTIB system approach what I was planning to get in sound quality?



Ed, I have the Ascend system and I am very happy with it. I seriously doubt any HTIB would come close. However, you may want to audition them and see for yourself.


----------



## weetoots

JamisonBWolsh,

Read the fine print at CC for the TV's "Up to 10% off $499 and Up, Plus 18 months no interest *excludes outlet...and Sony XBR*

Sony XBR!!!


This is on CC's Home/Televsion page and has been there for some time.


----------



## edstalnaker

RJB,


Which specific speakers and receiver do you have?


----------



## bsd107




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by JamisonBWolsh_
> *I talked to the manager and he told me the only way you can preorder is to ship it to the store first.. Try that. Should work. IMO CC should be getting the set VERY soon. Sony started to ship the set to sonystyle customers already.
> 
> 
> Hurray up though has 2 deals about to expire July 1.
> *



Thanks for the tip. My problem has been finding a competent salesperson at CC - next time I'll ask for the manager. They've been very busy during my visits, and I always seem to end up with someone coming over from the Walkman department....


Basically, I have no love for CC versus GG, but CC is offering the best price (pre-haggling) which in my book earns them the sale. (I'm a big fan of price matching, but I figure I should be giving my business to the store that offers the best price up-front.)


Delivering to the store first is no problem for me. I want to pick it up from the store anyway. I've got a big family members who can help me unload it from the minivan at home. Can do on my own schedule, and saves delivery $$$.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by weetoots_
> *JamisonBWolsh,
> 
> Read the fine print at CC for the TV's "Up to 10% off $499 and Up, Plus 18 months no interest excludes outlet...and Sony XBR
> 
> Sony XBR!!!
> 
> 
> This is on CC's Home/Televsion page and has been there for some time.*



Weetoots,


Thats for the 10 percent off....

the 18 months 0 percent is VALID for the 960. I actually used that deal before I returned to get the Sony deal at cc.


edstalnaker,


Look into the son-6600dp HTIB. Not only does is come with 5 speakers and a reciever, it includes a 5 disc dvd progressive player. Sony will mail you a 400 dollar rebate for this system if you purchase the 960 at the same time. Great deal! System may not be as good as RJb's, but you cannot beat the price (practically free after CC sale price)


----------



## TH3_FRB

Have we established who this person actually is?


Exactly where is "here" that the first 16 sets willwill be? Are you an authorized Sony dealer? Please provide your web site or some other useful information.



> Quote:
> _Originally posted by ONLY SONY_
> *THAT MEANS THE FIRST 16 WILL BE HERE BY THURSDAY!!!
> 
> 
> TO EVERYONE ON THE LIST, I WILL BE CONTACTING YOU SOON FOR SHIPPING THESE OUT TO YOU BEFORE CC GETS IT IN STOCK!!
> 
> 
> TODAY IS A GREAT MONDAY ALREADY.*


----------



## cpschmidt2

Here's the deal I got:


XBR960 10% off CC price (which is lower than Sony Style's price)

18 months

free basic delivery


HT6600 home theater

10% off CC price

will get $400 rebate from Sony


I had no problem special ordering the set.


----------



## helser

Great deal. Any idea how you got the 10% off? What I read says that it does not apply to XBR's or Wega's. Thanks for any insight. Has anybody in the Tampa area gotten this deal? I would be willing to do some travelling for this deal.


Gordon


----------



## RJB in Phila




> Quote:
> Which specific speakers and receiver do you have?



Ed, I have the 170's in front and back (4), the 340 for the center, and the HSU VTF 2 subwoofer. My receiver is just a run-of-the-mill Yamaha 6.1. I really think the Ascends are a great value. I assume you've seen the ascend forum ( www.ascendforum.com )?


----------



## BloatedCorpse

anyone have any idea how functional the on-screen program guide will be. Specifically, how does it compare to say the comcast interactive program guide?


----------



## edstalnaker

RJB,


I have seen the forum, although haven't followed it lately. I was wondering if it was worth it to get all 340's. Plus, when I called an engineer at Ascend and told him I wanted to mount the rear speakers on the wall, he told me that the 200's would work better than the 170 in that situation (actually sound better). Any comment on that? How big of a room do you have your setup in? My family room is 18' long by 14' wide, but it's open to the kitchen in the back.


cpschmidt2,


Can you tell me how I can go into my local CC and get the same deal you got? That seems amazing! Plus, what stand are you using? Did you buy the XBR3 $349 stand?


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

Here is My deal I JUST got from CC.


21 months 0% financing NO payments


Standard price of xbr960 (lower then MSRP)


Son-DP6600 Dream System

($400 Rebate)(4 DVD's)(Backpack)


Basic Delivery $40.00


Sony XBR1 Stand (ALOT Lower then the 349 MSRP)


CC will call me when the warehouse gets it in. I could not get the 10 percent off the dream system because I choose the Sony Deal.


----------



## 1212patatepoil




> Quote:
> anyone have any idea how functional the on-screen program guide will be. Specifically, how does it compare to say the comcast interactive program guide?



See for yourself...


----------



## cpschmidt2




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by helser_
> *Great deal. Any idea how you got the 10% off? What I read says that it does not apply to XBR's or Wega's. Thanks for any insight. Has anybody in the Tampa area gotten this deal? I would be willing to do some travelling for this deal.
> 
> 
> Gordon*



I just asked for the discount on the XBR, they offered it on the Home Theater system.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by cpschmidt2_
> *Here's the deal I got:
> 
> 
> XBR960 10% off CC price (which is lower than Sony Style's price)
> 
> 18 months
> 
> free basic delivery
> 
> 
> HT6600 home theater
> 
> 10% off CC price
> 
> will get $400 rebate from Sony
> 
> 
> I had no problem special ordering the set.*



I hope this is truth. It sounds like you got a rep who does not know how to do his/her Job.


1.) XBR is NOT 10 percent off (fine print excludes the XBR)

2.) HTIB- Its eithor the 18 months OR the 10 percent off.. NOT BOTH.

3.) Delivery. Its Possible. I hear some CC's will haggle. Mine does not. Most does not from the CC's I went to.


Hey Schmidt- You should have taken the deal offered by SONY. No payments untill 2006- SWEET!


----------



## pt270

What CC are you dealing with.I went to the Mt.view and Stevens Creek CC's in the bay area and they said they had no idea when these sets would be in and could not do any sales untill they had them in stock.I have a ten percent off coupon that is only good till june 30th that i would like to use.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by pt270_
> *What CC are you dealing with.I went to the Mt.view and Stevens Creek CC's in the bay area and they said they had no idea when these sets would be in and could not do any sales untill they had them in stock.I have a ten percent off coupon that is only good till june 30th that i would like to use.*



You HAVE to special order this set to the STORE, not from the warehouse. They cant order it from the warehouse, they can to the store. If the rep wont let you, speak to the manager. This is the same policy throughout the nation. Most employees do not know you can "special order" something this is not in stock yet, but you can....


----------



## gundyrat1

Well on Saturaday I received my email confirmation direct from SonyStyle saying my KD34XBR960 had been shipped and to expect at least 7 to 10 bussines days for the Premium delivery service.

Even though I have the cash I opted for the 18 months same as cash and got the Sony C.Card the Premium delivery service is availible on any 32" and above and was free if you Pre-Odered from SonyStyle.

The offical Ship date is July 2nd I dout any stores will have them before then.

I plan on using some of the saved cash to upgrade to a better Projector.

I'm going to be more curious if the store price will be the Pre-Order price or slighly higher


----------



## bsd107

I went to a third CC, and no luck. I could finally find someone who would preorder the XBR960 for me, and even then they only agreed because they showed in the system that someone else had preordered one. Still no ETA, though. Problem for me is that I wanted the bottom end HT system offered in the deal, and they didn't show that in stock, either, so they wouldn't let me order that. That was a killer for me, given that nobody actually has these TVs yet. Also, no 10% on XBR, and these guys didn't even want to do the 10% financing deal in combination with the rebate. Overall, they weren't knowledgeable at all about the rebates and deals, even though they had signs all over the place. The sales guy was nice, but basically he just wanted me to leave and buy later...


(Note that for the Sony rebate when buying a TV with HT, you must have both on the same receipt!)


I went to a second GG, and there I finally had success. GG's computer is showing that they received a big shipment today of XBR960s into their inventory (they showed me the screen - over the weekend it was saying July 3, but now it says June 28 - I guess they showed up early). Supposedly mine should arrive at the store by the weekend (but we'll see...). And they price-matched CC (which I couldn't get the other GG to do over the weekend).


Only trouble for me is that GG doesn't list the HT that I want (as part of the Sony rebate deal) in their system at all. [I'm trying to get the - I don't need a HT, but I could use the combo DVD/VHS player for the kids...] They are trying to add it to their system, so that I can get them both on the same receipt. So, it ain't over yet!


Been a long road - 3 CC's and 2 GG's, but I'm finally seeing the light at the end of the tunnel...


----------



## gundyrat1

They offered me that same dream system deal.

I said I have aprox 15k tied up in just A/V gear and I really didn't need another HT or HTiB.

I think the sales dudes jaw dropped when I mentioned the 15k.

and a projector all in the same room.

One thing I had to do was actually call and order it from Sony to qualify for the 18 month same as cash.

The deal over the net was only a 12 month deal.

I thought about just waiting but then looking at the price of the old model and most places have em marked down only a few hundred dollars I figured

why not get one with the tuner built in for roughly the same price.

Sony wouldn't elaborate on whether the 2199 was the MSRP or just the pre-order price.

I guess this is on par my first Sony TV a 27"EXR-25 now 12 years old and it was MSRP at just over a grand is still kickin I just hope this XBR has a better ic in the turn on circuit.

I've had to replace the same Ic every other year since I bought it

Now it's my kids problem he can fix it next time


----------



## weetoots

Anyone live close to the shipping area of this site 

Great price, no stock until Aug. But what a price if you are willing to wait.


----------



## DeletedUserPost

Hello,


I've had a little 9" TV/radio for the last ten years or so, and though it has served me well through thick and thin, (I don't watch much TV), I've been thinking lately about upgrading.


I still don't see myself watching too much TV in the future, but I love movies, and am finally preparing to give over to DVD addiction. But only on one condition: I want the best quality picture possible from the best source, for a reasonable price.


In my mind that safely narrows the field to CRT's in one fell swoop.

In surfing this forum for the last few days I've read a lot about the XBR960,

and it sounds very promising.


I have two questions that I hope some of the knowledgeable folks on this board might help out with:


1. I'm a little uneasy about the wide-screen format; there are a lot of great

movies out there that were shot in Academy Standard aspect ratio.

I understand that in a few more months Sony will be shipping a 4:3 version

of the 960. I guess the trade off there is that while Academy Standard

movies would be full screen and gorgeous, wide screen movies would

be presented at a lower resolution than they would on the 960, (although

at an apparently similar image size). Its a choice between Apocalypse

Now! and The Third Man.


2. In browsing this forum I've come across some posts that seem to indicate

that while HDTV's like the 960 are great for HDTV signal, its possible they

may be outperformed by regular TV's when it comes to regular broadcast

signal.


What about in terms of DVDs? Like regular broadcast signal, DVDs don't

contain as much information as HDTV signal, so is it possible that the Sony

960 is actually not the best display choice for movies? Maybe there are

tubes already out there that will display DVD's as well or better for less

money?


Since the promotional deals available on the 960 at CC are about to evaporate in a few days, I'd be grateful for any comments or thoughts.


Thanks,


-Bill.


----------



## Segaboy

A couple of thoughts for you billhound.


1. Are you considering purchasing one of the finer HDTV monitor with regards to the performance of SDTV? I understand that not all broadcast material is HD quality (someone pinch me, please!), but that will change over the course of time. I believe that you will be happier with a 16:9 in three years time.


2. As we move forward towards HD-DVD (come on Blu-Ray!), this monitor will truly show its' colours and allow you to enjoy increased resolution.


Bottom line, don't just buy an expensive product for today...Look to the future, as a product of this nature is capable of handling what the near-future holds in store for us.


I can't wait!!! I just placed my order through the Sony Family Store this AM for an incredible price! Hopefully, I will have mine before the Summer Olympics begin in August!


----------



## igreg

Excellent question Billlhound. I too am trying to solve this dilemma. Wish there was more info on this subject. It would be nice to have a 36" full screen televison (that may also provide a better picture with standard signals than the XBR 960; at least no irregular shaped black bars framing a reported soft, fuzzy 4:3 picture). And the HDTV image would still be 33". Further, the 36" model wil also include the Super Fine Pitch technology. Perhaps this is the best combination. What do you think?



Sony is also adding the XS-series to the FD Trinitron WEGA lineup. The expanded line will also feature Super Fine Pitch technology and include the widescreen 34-inch KD-34XS955, KD-30XS955 30-inch and 4:3 KD-36XS955 36-inch models. The widescreen models will be available for $2,000 $1,400, respectively in August and the 36-inch model will sell for around $1,900 in October.


Source: http://news.sel.sony.com/pressrelease/4439


----------



## JamisonBWolsh




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by igreg_
> *
> 
> Sony is also adding the XS-series to the FD Trinitron WEGA lineup. The expanded line will also feature Super Fine Pitch technology and include the widescreen 34-inch KD-34XS955, KD-30XS955 30-inch and 4:3 KD-36XS955 36-inch models. The widescreen models will be available for $2,000 $1,400, respectively in August and the 36-inch model will sell for around $1,900 in October.
> 
> 
> Source: http://news.sel.sony.com/pressrelease/4439 *



Remember, The ONLY set that sony is offering the 2nd generation of super fine pitch tech is the 960. No other set will have this technology. With this tech, supposedly, the set will bring up the picture quality of standard cable to exceed the reg pq of reg sets. The first generation is not that good in accomplishing that.

---------------------------------------------


BSD107,

CC is NOT offering the 10 percent off! Its against their regulations! you can try, but as you seen, fail. The other guy just got lucky with a bad rep. As for GG, I refuse to shop there. The reps Jump all over you for a sale. This does make haggling with them easier, but I dont want to be made a fool if I dont buy their warranty. I am suprised that they would price match. Most GG's would not. PLUS, when I went there, the price was more then the MSRP of 2199.00

What was the financing offer from GG?

----------------------------------

For those others, try to get the son-6600dp. The 5 disc progressive player DVD alone is worth more money if you bought it seperetly then after you get the $400 rebate. Its like getting 6 speakers and a reciever free.

The quality of the DVD player rated really good on the internet as well as the HTIB.

-----------------------------------------

MEANWHILE, HURRAY UP AND BUY FROM CC!!!!!!!

The Sony Offer of 21 months No interest and NO payment ends June 30.

The CC credit card offer of 18 months no interest ends July 3rd.

XBR1 stand at a GREAT discount! Buy it before the XBR3 comes in..

-------------------------------------------


----------



## Tigerriot

I just wanted to add that the first generation of the Super Fine Pitch does do a very good job with regular SD channels. I own one and i'm often blown away at how good standard tv channels look.


----------



## spongebob

What's the Sony Family Store?


bob







> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Segaboy_
> *A couple of thoughts for you billhound.
> 
> 
> 1. Are you considering purchasing one of the finer HDTV monitor with regards to the performance of SDTV? I understand that not all broadcast material is HD quality (someone pinch me, please!), but that will change over the course of time. I believe that you will be happier with a 16:9 in three years time.
> 
> 
> 2. As we move forward towards HD-DVD (come on Blu-Ray!), this monitor will truly show its' colours and allow you to enjoy increased resolution.
> 
> 
> Bottom line, don't just buy an expensive product for today...Look to the future, as a product of this nature is capable of handling what the near-future holds in store for us.
> 
> 
> I can't wait!!! I just placed my order through the Sony Family Store this AM for an incredible price! Hopefully, I will have mine before the Summer Olympics begin in August!*


----------



## Phantastica

The Family Store is a Sony Store for employess only. It's usually on Sony property out of reach from the public. They sell the set for around $1400.


----------



## ONLY SONY

DON'T LET THIS CC EMPLOYEE GET YOU GUYS WORKED UP.


THE NO INTEREST DEALS WILL ALWAYS BE AROUND. WE CAN OFFER THEM ALL YEAR IF WE WANT.


A SMALLER DEALER IS ALWAYS BETTER THAN A "GROCERY STORE" CC ANY DAY.


DO YOU THINK THEY WILL STOP MAKING DEALS ON THIS NEW SET..THINK


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

CC employee. Hell no. They dont get paid very well. Im just reporting what I researched on. The SONY deal is good untill June 30 (as told to me by a cc employee) the 18 month deal I read in the fine print: Expires July 3. Will they offer another deal. Probably. But not positive. This one expires July 3rd. Is a smaller store better? Depends.


Your Keyboard is broken. Your caps lock is stuck ON.


----------



## bsd107

CC told me that they expect new financing deals to come out on July 4 - that's why the current one expires on July 3


----------



## bsd107

Regarding "2nd Generation Super Fine Pitch Tube", I'm not sure what it really means. If you read the descriptions of the tube, the same claims would apply to the XBR910. So, I'm not sure if it's really going to really be any better or not - could just be sales hyperbole.


Note that I did personally see both the new 34"XBR and the 36"XS models for the Asian market a few weeks ago in Singapore (i.e. the ones you can see on the Sony Japan web site - note that they use different measurements outside the US!). Even though the new 34" 16:9 tv has the same tube as the XBR960, and the 36" supposedly has a first generation SFP, each TV had exactly the same "Super Fine Pitch" logos - there was nothing being advertised, including the labels on the TVs themselves, to indicated that the 34" used better tube technology.


Unfortunately, although this was a SonyStyle store, they only had a DVD feed (not digital) through the CRT TVs, so I couldn't do a meaningful comparison. Both TVs look equally good considering...


----------



## cpschmidt2




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by pt270_
> *What CC are you dealing with.I went to the Mt.view and Stevens Creek CC's in the bay area and they said they had no idea when these sets would be in and could not do any sales untill they had them in stock.I have a ten percent off coupon that is only good till june 30th that i would like to use.*



The CC in Tuscaloosa, AL.


----------



## TH3_FRB

The fact that they won't have stock until August makes me wonder if they are an authorized retailer although the claim full factory warranty on everything.


Their return policy states:


"Wholesale Connection *does not* accept returns unless they are in factory sealed unopened cartons. If the shipment is refused from the freight carrier, a credit will be issued for the *unit price only*. The customer will be responsible for any return shipping costs as well as the original cost to ship the item. Any item which proves to be defective within 15 days from the day you received the item (*excluding* DSS, *televisions* and installed car audio*) may be exchanged for a replacement (same model only).


"It is the customer's responsibility to ship the defective item to us at their expense. "


"DSS, *televisions*, and installed car audio are excluded from our return policy. All DSS and Televisions must be taken to an authorized repair center"


Looks like you get what you get, if it's broken that's your problem.



> Quote:
> _Originally posted by weetoots_
> *Anyone live close to the shipping area of this site
> 
> Great price, no stock until Aug. But what a price if you are willing to wait.*


----------



## TH3_FRB

Completely agree...especially considering your past 10-year history with the 9". You'll have this set for many years and it's limitations in the present will certainly begin to melt away over the next 2-3 years as the broadcasting industry moves towards complete HD format. I'd buy the best now expecting that it won't be perfect in every situation but the available content will soon catch up with the display technology. Soon your Academy Standard aspect movies will be in the extreme minority and I think you'll be unhappy down the road if you purchase a set to best suit those films.



> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Segaboy_
> *A couple of thoughts for you billhound.
> 
> 
> 1. Are you considering purchasing one of the finer HDTV monitor with regards to the performance of SDTV? I understand that not all broadcast material is HD quality (someone pinch me, please!), but that will change over the course of time. I believe that you will be happier with a 16:9 in three years time.
> 
> 
> 2. As we move forward towards HD-DVD (come on Blu-Ray!), this monitor will truly show its' colours and allow you to enjoy increased resolution.
> 
> 
> Bottom line, don't just buy an expensive product for today...Look to the future, as a product of this nature is capable of handling what the near-future holds in store for us.
> 
> 
> I can't wait!!! I just placed my order through the Sony Family Store this AM for an incredible price! Hopefully, I will have mine before the Summer Olympics begin in August!*


----------



## TH3_FRB

Please stop yelling...the caps lock is on the left.



> Quote:
> _Originally posted by ONLY SONY_
> *DON'T LET THIS CC EMPLOYEE GET YOU GUYS WORKED UP.
> 
> 
> THE NO INTEREST DEALS WILL ALWAYS BE AROUND. WE CAN OFFER THEM ALL YEAR IF WE WANT.
> 
> 
> A SMALLER DEALER IS ALWAYS BETTER THAN A "GROCERY STORE" CC ANY DAY.
> 
> 
> DO YOU THINK THEY WILL STOP MAKING DEALS ON THIS NEW SET..THINK*


----------



## drvais

I am very pleased to see that Sony has gone back to adopting animated menus for the direct-view 16:9 XBRs (like they first did with my KD-34XBR2).


Also, if you can trust the manual, it seems that Sony has finally fixed a glaring oversight with my set, namely it looks like you'll be able to select audio streams from devices connected via I.Link (i.e.- you'll be able to connect your D-Theater-equipped DVHS deck to the set via Firewire, select the DD or DTS [if its supported by the set?] stream, and then use the set's optical out to make the picture and sound match up). I can post links to other threads discussing this problem if you're not clear about this issue.


Regardless, it seems that Sony has a winner on their hands and finally a TRUE successor to the 34XBR2.


Now, if only you could select Video Inputs directly...


----------



## Segaboy

Drvais,


You ask for direct access to the video inputs?


All Sony monitors have discreet IR codes that can take you directly to the desired inputs.


You can easily find them on www.remotecentral.com or somewhere similar.


Then you can embed those codes into a macro and never have to worry about it again.


----------



## igreg

Thanks for comment Tigerriot. Appreciate someone who actually owns an XBR 910 and can comment on the quality of SD signals. Both the GG salesman and I thought the picture on Comcast cable looked terrible on the XBR 910, but I don't know if the signal was digital, and the hook-up was probably not S-Video.


Could you tell me what your input source is (e.g., DirecTV via S-video), and, also, have you had any problems with the black bars not being straight while watching standard televison? At GG, the bars bent inward, and I don't know if there is a simple user adjustmnet to fix that?. Thanks!


----------



## Sizam

I have (or had) the 34xbr800 and normal DirecTV (DirecTiVo) looks _awesome_ on it, overly compressed digital cable looked _terrible_ on my neighbor's 32" WEGA and would likely look just as bad if not worse on my 34" since all the artifacts would be 'enhanced'. I imagine DirecTV will look just as good if not better on the 960. In the past DirecTV was through s-video (after passing through my Denon 3801) but now I have a HDTiVo and DirecTV gets feed via component, and likely DVI after I fix the overscan.


----------



## Stereodude




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by bsd107_
> *Regarding "2nd Generation Super Fine Pitch Tube", I'm not sure what it really means. If you read the descriptions of the tube, the same claims would apply to the XBR910. So, I'm not sure if it's really going to really be any better or not - could just be sales hyperbole.
> 
> 
> Note that I did personally see both the new 34"XBR and the 36"XS models for the Asian market a few weeks ago in Singapore (i.e. the ones you can see on the Sony Japan web site - note that they use different measurements outside the US!). Even though the new 34" 16:9 tv has the same tube as the XBR960, and the 36" supposedly has a first generation SFP, each TV had exactly the same "Super Fine Pitch" logos - there was nothing being advertised, including the labels on the TVs themselves, to indicated that the 34" used better tube technology.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, although this was a SonyStyle store, they only had a DVD feed (not digital) through the CRT TVs, so I couldn't do a meaningful comparison. Both TVs look equally good considering...*



It is supposed to be 25% brighter. If you look at the Super Fine Pitch logo you will see that the i in fine and the i in pitch are two I's close together.


----------



## wdang




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by weetoots_
> *Does anyone have a picture of the rear panel layout?*



Page 2 from this link
http://www.geocities.com/kd34xbr960...xbr960page.html has the rear panel layout for this TV.


----------



## drvais

Bad Link!


----------



## wdang




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by drvais_
> *Bad Link!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *



Sorry, I don't know what happened to that link. I saw it in another post. I read it and actually printed out a hard copy of the rear panel layout for reference. Now I can't even find the post where I got that link from.


----------



## weetoots

ONLY SONY, Congrats you made my ignor list. Stick your CAPs....


----------



## weetoots

The "rear panel" can be seen in the manual


----------



## spider4re

Does anyone have a picture of the rear panel layout?


got to the first post of this thread and the link is there.


or click this:

http://www.geocities.com/kd34xbr960/...br960page.html


----------



## DeletedUserPost

Thanks to everyone for their comments on my questions yesterday.

It seems like the consensus is that the xbr960 is really an investment in the future, rather than a TV that you sit down and watch today, (assuming you don't intend to acsess HDTV signals, as I don't). A question that comes to mind, of course, is why pay for this technology today when it will be that much cheaper in a year or three, (my 9" radio/tv is still going strong).


Anyway, I'm still confused on a couple of points:


First, I don't know what the SDTV that Segaboy mentions is, or the regular SD channels that Tigerriot brings up.


Second, and most importantly:


I'm still unclear about the kind of picture quality one can expect with a DVD source on this TV. I'm not talking about the aspect ratio choice here- just simple issues of resolution, contrast, shadow detail, aliasing artifacts, etc. Is this set a step up from other currently available, (and presumably less expensive) products, or is it merely a lateral move due to basic limitations of DVD media at present.


While I understand that the coming years will see improvements in broadcast, cable, and satellite technology that will make this set shine, really the only reason that I'm considering the upgrade is to be able to watch high quality DVDs of great movies where the image really matters.


Thanks again to everyone for your thoughts.


-Bill.


----------



## Alan Sh




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by bsd107_
> *Regarding "2nd Generation Super Fine Pitch Tube", I'm not sure what it really means. If you read the descriptions of the tube, the same claims would apply to the XBR910. So, I'm not sure if it's really going to really be any better or not - could just be sales hyperbole.
> 
> .........
> *



I am no longer convinced that there is any difference between the XBR910 picture tube and the XBR960 picture tube or that Sony ever said there was.


I reread the post which originally lead me to believe there was. I now interpret the information to be another generation of MICROFOCUS tubes not another generation of Super Fine Pitch tubes.


"Super Fine Pitch MICROFOCUS CRT

incorporates smaller phosphor particles and a thinner phosphor layer over Sony's previous MICROFOCUS picture tubes, to achieve a 28% reduction in beam spot size. The result is a sharper focus, higher contrast and a brighter image."


Does anyone have a link which refers directly to a "2nd generation Super Fine Pitch MICROFOCUS CRT?"


----------



## Rizzle




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Alan Sh_
> *I am no longer convinced that there is any difference between the XBR910 picture tube and the XBR960 picture tube or that Sony ever said there was.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a link which refers directly to a "2nd generation Super Fine Pitch MICROFOCUS CRT?"*




From the Sony Press Release on the 960:


> Quote:
> Utilizing second generation Super Fine Pitch CRT technology, which was developed exclusively for displaying high definition content, the KD-34XBR960 produces true to life, high-resolution images with virtually no visible vertical scanning lines on the screen for outstanding corner to corner image precision. The KD-34XBR960 34-inch model will be available in June for about $2,200



http://news.sel.sony.com/pressrelease/4439 



I still think my KV-27FV16 has one of the best SD pictures of I've seen (much better than my father's 65" XBR), but I'm tired of not being able to take full advantage of my PS2 games that are Progressive Scan and a the majority of my XBox games that are in 480p, 720p, and a couple in 1080i. I can get OTA and cable HD channels so there will be an improvement there too. Once I properly calibrate my video cards output settings to match standard HD signal specs, the 960 will be a 34" monitor for my computer. Another plus is the HDMI connection which both Microsoft and Sony have already said would be an available output on their next gen systems. Right now, I got a 960 with stand for less than a 910 costs with a free stand. For me, it was a no brainer.


----------



## spongebob

I think *MY* 32xbr100 (XBR squared) has the best analog picture ever displayed










bob


----------



## Sizam

*sputter*! Is this a step up for DVD!? OMG if you're talking about going from a normal TV to this TV then yes, by god yes. When I first got my 34xbr800 2+ years ago I didn't get it for HDTV, I got it for DVDs, it looks _so much better_. Bigger, clearer, sharper, better colors, way better resolution. After I got the TV I rewatched all my movies because they looked sooo much better. I only recently got a HDTV receiver in the last couple months and yes, HDTV looks awesome but still, about 50-60% of what I watch is DVD, and 30-40% DirecTV SD material. Forget about HDTV for the moment, $2000 is way worth it, its an investment for the now and for the later, having had the xbr800 for 2+ years I can't imagine going back to a 3:4 SD Tv unless I absolutely couldn't afford a $2000 TV.


----------



## Alan Sh

Rizzle -


Thanks for the link as it encouraged me to call Sony again and this time I got a definitive answer. The part numbers on the XBR910 CRT and XBR960 CRT are identical - 8-735-218-05.


----------



## TH3_FRB

Very interesting












> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Alan Sh_
> *Rizzle -
> 
> 
> Thanks for the link as it encouraged me to call Sony again and this time I got a definitive answer. The part numbers on the XBR910 CRT and XBR960 CRT are identical - 8-735-218-05.*


----------



## TH3_FRB

I think I may have led you slightly off course. The 960 is very much a TV that you sit down and watch today. It will be fantastic with DVD and one of the better if not best choices for SD (standard definition) on a wide screen. My point was simply that you won't be able to take full advantage of all it's technology with every source/broadcast at the present...but it's still about as good as it gets. Your material will certainly grow into the technology. You can always wait...but if that's your position then you might find yourself waiting forever. My advice would be to get this set now...it seems to fit your needs best...and start enjoying all your DVDs rather than wait. Prices have come down over the past few years. It's all a matter of your reference point...if you had started looking a year or two ago, then today you'd be saying "wow...these things are way cheaper and better quality then 2 years ago, it's time to dive in"











> Quote:
> _Originally posted by billhound_
> *Thanks to everyone for their comments on my questions yesterday.
> 
> It seems like the consensus is that the xbr960 is really an investment in the future, rather than a TV that you sit down and watch today, (assuming you don't intend to acsess HDTV signals, as I don't). A question that comes to mind, of course, is why pay for this technology today when it will be that much cheaper in a year or three, (my 9" radio/tv is still going strong).
> 
> 
> Anyway, I'm still confused on a couple of points:
> 
> 
> First, I don't know what the SDTV that Segaboy mentions is, or the regular SD channels that Tigerriot brings up.
> 
> 
> Second, and most importantly:
> 
> 
> I'm still unclear about the kind of picture quality one can expect with a DVD source on this TV. I'm not talking about the aspect ratio choice here- just simple issues of resolution, contrast, shadow detail, aliasing artifacts, etc. Is this set a step up from other currently available, (and presumably less expensive) products, or is it merely a lateral move due to basic limitations of DVD media at present.
> 
> 
> While I understand that the coming years will see improvements in broadcast, cable, and satellite technology that will make this set shine, really the only reason that I'm considering the upgrade is to be able to watch high quality DVDs of great movies where the image really matters.
> 
> 
> Thanks again to everyone for your thoughts.
> 
> 
> -Bill.*


----------



## weetoots

At this point in time, why would *anyone* even consider the older 910, at almost 2k, when the 960 will only cost $50.00 more at CC. There is nothing more to discuss. Buy the 910 and watch yesterdays fine TV. Pay $50 more and watch a much better tube, today and for a few more years.

My prices come from a visit to CC, today.


----------



## gundyrat1

I saw a 34XBR 910 a JVC 34" and the Other Sony34HS side by side at a store running the same clip from finding Nemo.

The Finer pitch XBR 34" was clearly the hands down winner for clarity, color depth, smoothness,

it had no visible masking grid.

The same could not be said for the JVC or the other Sony

however the HS did look better than the JVC but overall the XBR was my pick as the clear winner and it was marked down to 1799.

2199 and 1799 really isn't much of a gap for a Better product considering the 910 MSRP for 2499 originally

Knowing that all 05 models 32"and larger are required to have a Digital tuner built in I felt the need to get the 960 over the 910 plus all the other new implementations in the 960

Ultimately the 960 is more XBR for less cash out lay


----------



## igreg

According to May's "Home Theatre Technology" Direct view HDTV sets look good, but they are inherently inferior to larger plasma sets because CRT sers are just too small; that is, the sets are not large enough to propelry display enough pixels to give the viewer the best HDTV image resolution. Anyone see this article or care to comment?


----------



## weetoots

Gee igreg, let's compare apples to oranges! Yes plasma looks better and with known problems, like cost, heat, and a life expectancy of less than 6 years. For some this is a good choice.

Why do you insist dissing the 960. Have you ever seen the 910 and then tried to imagine the improved 960. Well I have, as with the majority of this thread/forum.

We've looked at plasma, DLP, LCD and they have known problems. If you are the type who can afford to experiment, go ahead but stop dissing the 960. At least wait until it is on the floor of some showroom or in one of our homes, then we will collectively discuss the yea's and nea's of this tube type TV.


----------



## Stereodude




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by igreg_
> *According to May's "Home Theatre Technology" Direct view HDTV sets look good, but they are inherently inferior to larger plasma sets because CRT sers are just too small; that is, the sets are not large enough to propelry display enough pixels to give the viewer the best HDTV image resolution. Anyone see this article or care to comment?*



Well just more proof to file the the "Don't believe everything you read in a magazine" category. To the best of my knowledge the 960 can show more resolution of a HDTV signal than any plasma that you can currently buy. Until 1920x1080 plasmas show up they just won't be able to match the res of the 34XBR960.


----------



## TH3_FRB

I don't believe he was "dissing" anything...simply asking opinions on an article from a major publication on the subject. If you want to take issue with the article, then fine, let's discuss, but please be careful not to turn this into a personal argument.



> Quote:
> _Originally posted by weetoots_
> *Gee igreg, let's compare apples to oranges! Yes plasma looks better and with known problems, like cost, heat, and a life expectancy of less than 6 years. For some this is a good choice.
> 
> Why do you insist dissing the 960. Have you ever seen the 910 and then tried to imagine the improved 960. Well I have, as with the majority of this thread/forum.
> 
> We've looked at plasma, DLP, LCD and they have known problems. If you are the type who can afford to experiment, go ahead but stop dissing the 960. At least wait until it is on the floor of some showroom or in one of our homes, then we will collectively discuss the yea's and nea's of this tube type TV.*


----------



## drvais

I read in a Perfect Vision review of the 34XBR910 that the top of the chasis is not level, so it's almost impossible to rest a center channel on it. The XBR960 looks very similar in design to the XBR910. Does anyone want to speculate if the 960's top shelf is more level?


----------



## RJB in Phila

Drvais, one will probably need a speaker stand for the 960. It's probably no different than the 910, is my guess. I already bought one assuming I'd need it.


----------



## RJB in Phila

I just checked the CC web page for the 910 model. Although they still list it at the full MSRP, when I check availability they tell me that the only ones in stock are in areas in Central PA, with none being available in all of suburban Philadelphia. Also, no direct delivery is available.


I wonder if CC has gotten rid of almost all their inventory of the 910's in anticipation of getting the 960's? Other areas of the country may be different, of course.


----------



## High Def 03

Thats not true you can put a center speaker on the 910 and i am sure the 960 too.


----------



## Sizam

What is the res of the 960/910 anyway? One article I read a while back put it somewhat over 1920, one article I read recently put it at 1401 and that it depends on if you say 1 triad equals 2 pixels (like in most instances) or 3 (because some people feel this is the case with CRT monitors)? BTW, I went to CC with a friend and we also easily got 10% off the already lower then MSRP price of the 960 plus 10% off the HT6600 which brought it down to $450 and using the rebate to get $400 back that HT will only cost him $50







Oh, and igreg, among the many other reasons why I wouldn't suggest buying a plasma over a CRT, remember that not everybody can sit 11' back from the display, 43"+ screens don't look so hot at around 6-8 feet, esp with SD material.


Sam


----------



## Rizzle




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Sizam_
> *What is the res of the 960/910 anyway? One article I read a while back put it somewhat over 1920, one article I read recently put it at 1401 and that it depends on if you say 1 triad equals 2 pixels (like in most instances) or 3 (because some people feel this is the case with CRT monitors)? BTW, I went to CC with a friend and we also easily got 10% off the already lower then MSRP price of the 960 plus 10% off the HT6600 which brought it down to $450 and using the rebate to get $400 back that HT will only cost him $50
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and igreg, among the many other reasons why I wouldn't suggest buying a plasma over a CRT, remember that not everybody can sit 11' back from the display, 43"+ screens don't look so hot at around 6-8 feet, esp with SD material.
> 
> 
> Sam*



Technically a CRT doesn't have a resolution, but the aperature grill splits the light into 1400something vertical lines. That was for the 910. I've heard that the tube for the 960 is the same, but its calibrated to use a new grill that has 1600something lines. Hence, the "2nd-gen SuperFinePitch CRT". Either way, it's a much higher resolution than the LCD's and Plasmas on the market. And (again technically) the 960 is the closest to a "true" HD monitor Sony Consumer Electronics currently sells in terms of resolution.


----------



## TH3_FRB

Someone in another thread claims they saw a 960 in the store yesterday...and I can't find the damn thread now! My response was that it was probably a 910 since the 960 just started shipping a couple days ago.


Found it: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...47#post3998347


----------



## drvais

Regarding the set's resolution, according to Joe Kane, if the set isn't displaying native 720p (which I don't think it will), then sadly it's not really anywhere close to 1080i either.


BTW, I have a horizontally laying center speaker, so I wonder if this would make a positive difference for placing on top of the set, versus a vertical standing speaker?


----------



## ganleybob

OK So we are getting close to the answer to a question I've had for a long time. What is the resolution of this TV?


Seems like it has at least 1401 columns or of light, could be up to 1600 if Rizzle has good info about the aperature grill, I believe this is commonly referred to as the horizontal resolution.


Now drvais is passing on info that it has 720 or less rows, or scan lines being painted, commonly referred to vertical resolution.


How can Sony claim that this TV displays 1080i native if it doesn't paint at least 1080 scan lines?


When will this TV reach 1920 columns which is also the benchmark?


Who has definitive info? Where is the Sony source here?


Bob


----------



## Stereodude




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by drvais_
> *Regarding the set's resolution, according to Joe Kane, if the set isn't displaying native 720p (which I don't think it will), then sadly it's not really anywhere close to 1080i either*



Where do you guys come up with this crap? What does Joe Kane know about this set? Just because it converts 720p to 1080i, doesn't mean it has less than 720 lines of horizonal resolution. It has over 1080 lines of horizontal resolution.


----------



## Stereodude




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by ganleybob_
> *OK So we are getting close to the answer to a question I've had for a long time. What is the resolution of this TV?
> 
> 
> Seems like it has at least 1401 columns or of light, could be up to 1600 if Rizzle has good info about the aperature grill, I believe this is commonly referred to as the horizontal resolution.
> 
> 
> Now drvais is passing on info that it has 720 or less rows, or scan lines being painted, commonly referred to vertical resolution.
> 
> 
> How can Sony claim that this TV displays 1080i native if it doesn't paint at least 1080 scan lines?
> 
> 
> When will this TV reach 1920 columns which is also the benchmark?
> 
> 
> Who has definitive info? Where is the Sony source here?
> 
> 
> Bob*



The TV has over 1400 vertical sets of RGB stripes in the aperature grill. This would be the resolution in the X direction. Most 1080i footage only has an effective resolution of about 1400 or so (instead of 1920) because the signals are filtered to reduce the interlacing artifacts.


The TV has in excess of 1080i lines horizontally.


----------



## RJB in Phila




> Quote:
> Thats not true you can put a center speaker on the 910 and i am sure the 960 too.



I guess it depends how big your center speaker is.


----------



## sgtpeper

Im just curious if anyone knows a store - in chicago even - that has the 960 in stock so I can take a look at it. Anyone who has owned both the 910 and the 960 feel there is a big difference in the picture?


Thanks

Jeff


----------



## weetoots

TH3_RB

Nothing personal, just making a statement. There are numerous posts by a certain person knocking the 960, claiming he has seen the bad picture. Same person claims he saw it at Magnolia Hi-fi.

Again, all I am stating is wait until it is out, then compare.

Just like the post above, "Anyone who has owned both the 910 and the 960 feel there is a big difference in the picture?"

It isn't out yet.......


----------



## drvais

Stereodude, my comments were misinterpreted by several people it seems. Joe Kane has mentioned in past issues of Widescreen Review that if a set (not solely the 960) cannot natively display 720p, then it probably isn't properly displaying 1080i either. I did NOT say that the 960 was limited to 720 lines of horizontal resolution.


Past iterations of the XBR 16:9 line have converted 720p to 1080i, and I'm guessing that the 960 will follow this tradition.


Now, hail to the King, baby!


----------



## TH3_FRB

Agree 100%...that's what I've been saying for a while now











> Quote:
> _Originally posted by weetoots_
> *TH3_RB
> 
> all I am stating is wait until it is out, then compare.
> *


----------



## DeletedUserPost

Hi folks,


Thanks for everyone's input on the 960 picture quality issues I brought up.

It sounds like it will be great for what I want.


Another question though:


As everyone knows Sony is offering some good deals on home theater in a box in conjunction with the 960. I understand that the DVD player in all of the systems is their DVP NC665P. Has anyone had experience with this player and will it get the best from the 960, or are there one or two players that will outperform it that someone might recommend?


I was not planning to buy a multi-disc, multi-media player like the Sony, and I'm skeptical of boxes that try to do too many things. Its only the promo deal they're offering with the 960 that makes me consider this player. As with the television, picture quality is my bottom line.


(Let me apologize in advance if this is too off-topic for this forum. I've posed this question in the DVD forum here, but so far no responses. And a search doesn't seem to yield much in the way of threads regarding this particular player. I suppose that might tell me something about it...)


-Bill.


----------



## helser




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by TH3_FRB_
> *Someone in another thread claims they saw a 960 in the store yesterday...and I can't find the damn thread now! My response was that it was probably a 910 since the 960 just started shipping a couple days ago.
> 
> 
> Found it: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...47#post3998347 *



And he responded to you that it was indeed, a 910. So, no one has seen a 960 yet, that we know of. Should be soon now.


Gordon


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

I bought the 6600DP home theater. The 5 disc dvd progressive player is NOT in the same unit as the reciever. 2 separate units. The dvd player actually rated good. It costs less to buy the HTIB then if you bought the dvd by itself, plus you get the HTIB with it as a bonus! what a great deal! Buy the HT-6600dp. Its a great unit!


----------



## gundyrat1

Mine gets delivered next wed sch for 2 to 4pm timeslot


----------



## helser

Those of you that will be getting 34xbr960's soon, maybe you could tell us what flavor of SDTV you will be viewing on your 960 and what you willl be comparing it to? What kind of TV do you view SDTV on now? Is it a 4:3 TV or 16:9 TV? By flavor, I mean cable, digital cable, OTA, TiVo, etc. I am especially interested to hear how TiVo looks on the 960 and at which TiVo quality it was recorded.


I think most of us believe the 960 will be great for HDTV, if 34" widescreen is adequate for our needs. But alot of us are worried about SDTV viewing, since there is still alot of that around.


Thanks,

Gordon


----------



## Alan Sh




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Rizzle_
> *Technically a CRT doesn't have a resolution, but the aperature grill splits the light into 1400something vertical lines. That was for the 910. I've heard that the tube for the 960 is the same, but its calibrated to use a new grill that has 1600something lines. ........*



In his review of the XBR910 in The Perfect Vision, Gary Merson discusses the location of the aperture grill("there are 1401 slots") - "just behind the phosphor-coated face."


This puts it inside the picture tube and as I previously said Sony told me the part number for the picture tube on the XBR960 is the same as the XBR910.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by gundyrat1_
> *Mine gets delivered next wed sch for 2 to 4pm timeslot*



Where did you buy the set at?


----------



## Rizzle




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Alan Sh_
> *In his review of the XBR910 in The Perfect Vision, Gary Merson discusses the location of the aperture grill("there are 1401 slots") - "just behind the phosphor-coated face."
> 
> 
> This puts it inside the picture tube and as I previously said Sony told me the part number for the picture tube on the XBR960 is the same as the XBR910.*



Just repeating what I've heard. I could really careless whether it was 1600 or 1400 lines, I know its still much higher than any other consumer CRT, LCD, or Plasma on the market.


The company handling the shipping on my 960 for SonyStyle says to expect delivery by Wed. or Thurs next week around the same time as Gundyrat1. I'm guessing he's a SonyStyle preorder too, or a very luck retail customer.


----------



## Tigerriot

If I had to wager on this I would be the the 960 has the exact same tube as the 910. Sony is not known for making big changes to it's tvs year to year. Especially true for the XBR line which normally only changes every 2 years. So, I just don't think they'd actually do all the work to make a new tube for the 960.


My money says the 960 is the 910 tube with some slight tweaks to the circuitry.


----------



## Rizzle




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Tigerriot_
> *If I had to wager on this I would be the the 960 has the exact same tube as the 910. Sony is not known for making big changes to it's tvs year to year. Especially true for the XBR line which normally only changes every 2 years. So, I just don't think they'd actually do all the work to make a new tube for the 960.
> 
> 
> My money says the 960 is the 910 tube with some slight tweaks to the circuitry.*



I concur. I had heard that there were some improvements made to the tube, but it appears I had been misinformed. Its most likely that Sony's press release was referring to circuitry upgrades with upconverters, signal processors, etc.


I just find it funny that the people here are already dismissing the SD capability of the 960 before anyone has seen one in the flesh, let alone a well-calibrated one.


----------



## igreg

I think the problem with SD is not unique. I have heard it is "HDTV's dirty little secret" is that the sets are terrible with SD images. I know I have viewed DirecTV images with the finest cables at Magnolia HIFI, and the SD picture on CNN, etc. looked TERRIBLE on a $7,000 Pioneer 910HD; while the HDTV looked brillant on a baseball game I saw on a Samsung DLP at CC; when I had the salesman switch to DirecTV, the picture looked TERRIBLE.


Perhaps as one thread states, there is something to the 16:9 format; that is; the 4:3 sets (40XBR00) have better SD images? Something about how the XBR800 can upconvert to 960i rather than 1080i.


Certainly excellent analog televions have superior images on SD signals.

Anyone with an an excellnet analog set ever see a HDTV SD image that looked as good? Maybe not out there at this time.


----------



## Stereodude




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by igreg_
> *I think the problem with SD is not unique. I have heard it is "HDTV's dirty little secret" is that the sets are terrible with SD images. I know I have viewed DirecTV images with the finest cables at Magnolia HIFI, and the SD picture on CNN, etc. looked TERRIBLE on a $7,000 Pioneer 910HD; while the HDTV looked brillant on a baseball game I saw on a Samsung DLP at CC; when I had the salesman switch to DirecTV, the picture looked TERRIBLE.*



The problem is with the SD, not the TV. SD has all sorts of problems, and HD sets aren't made to cover them up, so you get to see the problems in all their glory.


----------



## RandyWalters




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by igreg_
> *I think the problem with SD is not unique. I have heard it is "HDTV's dirty little secret" is that the sets are terrible with SD images. I know I have viewed DirecTV images with the finest cables at Magnolia HIFI, and the SD picture on CNN, etc. looked TERRIBLE on a $7,000 Pioneer 910HD; while the HDTV looked brillant on a baseball game I saw on a Samsung DLP at CC; when I had the salesman switch to DirecTV, the picture looked TERRIBLE.*



You cannot compare the SD image on a tube TV to one on a large Plasma or Rear Projection set. An SD signal will always look poor on even a good big screen set because an NTSC signal was never intented to be viewed on such a large screen. SD on my friend's HD tube TV looks great via DirecTV, but the same exact signal on his 46" DLP looks unacceptable. This is to be expected because big screen technology is optimized for DVD and HD, not SD, and the larger screen size exposes flaws in the signal that aren't apparent on a smaller tube TV.



> Quote:
> Certainly excellent analog televions have superior images on SD signals. Anyone with an an excellnet analog set ever see a HDTV SD image that looked as good? Maybe not out there at this time. [/b]



You can't make this broad statement because it's not always true. I've seen SD and DVD on a Sony 32FV310 analog set (undoubtedly the best analog set out there) and i saw scan lines even when i stood 10 feet away, but on my own 32" HD Panny and friends's HD tube TVs the SD picture is superior to that of the analog set - no scan lines and an overall smoother picture compared to analog and its because of the HDTV's deintelacer doubling the scan lines. SD looks fantastic on my HD set.


----------



## STEELERSRULE

Again, I agree with Randy on SD signals to a HDTV set. My HDTV monitor(Zenith C27V36) looks very good to excellent with analog(cable into RF input from wall) after PROPER CALIBRATION with either DVE or AVIA.(user menu). Much better than my 3 year old Panasonic CT27D10 analog set.


No service menu adjustments for me yet. Too scared to screw up tv.


----------



## igreg

And your Panasonic 4:3. Perhaps something to do with the picture quality ala the 40XBR800?


Hoping XBR 960 has great SD picture, but skeptical to this point. Only viewed the XBR 910 with over-the-air analog signal at Magnolia HIFI and the picture was poor. I would have to see the set connected to DirecTV to ultimately judge its SD picture quality.


Speaking of SD reception on the XBR910, which connection would provide the best picture quality: DVI, HDMI, Component, or S-video?


----------



## Sizam

Since it came up again, I'd like to mention it, again, that SD DirecTV looks _awesome_ on my 34xbr800 and could only look better on the 34xbr960.


----------



## Waterbug




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by igreg_
> 
> [B
> 
> ...Speaking of SD reception on the XBR910, which connection would provide the best picture quality: DVI, HDMI, Component, or S-video? [/b]



Well, HDMI and DVI are digital, HDMi is superior than DVI that it has 5 Gbits of bandwidth and can carry audio data versus DVI which can only carry up to 1.65 Gbits of bandwidth and it doesn't carry any audio data. But both are digital....


Component is analog and it seem to be capable of carrying up to 3 ghz bandwidht...


So, HDMI, DVI, and component are the way to get High defintion....which is better depends on the DAC of the source/and or the display...to me, i like HDMI for its bandwidth, smaller size, and convenience of carrying audio too...


S-Video is analog and its only support 480i. Not high defition and the color bandwidth isn't as high as component....


----------



## bigbasin

fyi


The Magnolia Hifi in Santa Clara will receive their 960's on July 10th.


Of the 15 on order, 12 are pre-sold.


According to the salesperson, whose name I didn't get, they are selling the 960's for msrp and including the stand at no additonal charge.


delivery is 50


----------



## rostov

Hey. New to these forums. I've been looking to get my first HDTV, and the XBR960 looks like a great place to start. Only problem is that today I went in and talked to a local shop who carries sony, and they told me that the XBR960 isn't going to be as "good" quality as last year's xbr910. Now it's possible they just wanted to sell off their old models. But they made a good point about the xbr960 having the built in tuner while actually retailing for less than the xbr910 did. Did they cut some corners with the xbr960, or is it just possible that they're able to pack more features in for less than they could last year?


----------



## BloatedCorpse

..the salesman was just trying to make a sell on the 910. I have no fear that the pq on the 960 will be of similar quality, if not slightly improved from the 910. I would guess that the lower pricing for the 960 is due to a few factors such as lower production costs for the various components, as well as the need to respond to competitors' pricepoints. It's your decision which set to purchase, but with the 960 so close to popping up in stores, it seems a little silly to buy a 910 until you can see and compare a 960 with your own set of peepers.


----------



## gundyrat1

JamisonBWolsh

I bought it direct form Sony Style

My stand is slightly smaller than the base but I've look

at the previous Version and it will sit just fine I may scroung up a sheet of plexiglass to extend My stand top

Its made by tech craft I bought it spificly for any fututre TV upgrades and mainly for my Center channel speak which Just fit s the 8"tall opening just below the stand top and then below that is LD storage

as for whats going to be hooked up

For SD its DirecTV via a Sony SAT-A2 and then through My Ht receiver a Pioneer Elite VSX-49TX (Im looking foward to the componant out upconversion)

a Pioneer Elite CLD-79 LD player and Pioneer Elite DV-C36 5 disc DVD player

and also the PS2

I'm interested in seeing how Vice city looks in 16:9

the Tube might just be the same but the electronics have added features missing form the 910

we all know that eventualy prices always drop as each new model rolls out

so for a Salesman from any store tellanyone that a newer model isnt as good as last years model just beacuse last years model had a Higher MSRP is plain nonsense

there is always A price to be paid for first run componants


----------



## rgriffing

To those who feel the 960 will be an improvement over the 910, keep in mind that Sony has a long track record of introducing statement products such as their first dvd player, the s7000, which blow away the competition in build quality and value for the money. Once the product is established, and the glowing reviews are written, Sony discontinues the product and substitutes versions which seem to offer more, but are clearly a step down in build quality.


----------



## murphyb74

By all appearances, the 960 is essentially the same TV as the 910 - same case, same tube (with minor upgrade) - so overall R&D costs were very little. The addition of an internal HD tuner and a few interface plugs probably added a few bucks to production costs. This was probably off set by an increased production run.


In what country are the 910 and 960 manufactured?


----------



## JamisonBWolsh




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by rgriffing_
> *To those who feel the 960 will be an improvement over the 910, keep in mind that Sony has a long track record of introducing statement products such as their first dvd player, the s7000, which blow away the competition in build quality and value for the money. Once the product is established, and the glowing reviews are written, Sony discontinues the product and substitutes versions which seem to offer more, but are clearly a step down in build quality.*



What Kind of statement is this? For that ONE dvd player, there countless other products sony does better.


Ex: Playstation 1 upgraded to the Playstation 2


----------



## TH3_FRB

Yeah...what he said!


At least wait and see one for yourself.



> Quote:
> _Originally posted by BloatedCorpse_
> *..the salesman was just trying to make a sell on the 910. I have no fear that the pq on the 960 will be of similar quality, if not slightly improved from the 910. I would guess that the lower pricing for the 960 is due to a few factors such as lower production costs for the various components, as well as the need to respond to competitors' pricepoints. It's your decision which set to purchase, but with the 960 so close to popping up in stores, it seems a little silly to buy a 910 until you can see and compare a 960 with your own set of peepers.*


----------



## smirnoffski




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by murphyb74_
> *In what country are the 910 and 960 manufactured?*



Most likely Mexico, but maybe even U.S.A; definately NOT Japan.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

Yea right... Just Imagine the COST to ship these large, heavy sets from Japan.....


----------



## TH3_FRB

hecho en México


----------



## murphyb74

>>Yea right... Just Imagine the COST to ship these large, heavy sets from Japan.....


I suspect labor cost is more of an issue than shipping. The gym I belong to bought some new plates for the barbells. They were York brand, York Barbell Co. of York, PA - less than 100 miles from here (DC area). I was a bit surprised when I noticed the "Made in China" sticker!


----------



## bigbasin

CC has taken off the 910 from its online inventory....


----------



## montreal




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by smirnoffski_
> *Most likely Mexico, but maybe even U.S.A; definitely NOT Japan.*




Pull out the infamous B board and you'll see it marked MADE IN JAPAN. The multilayer delicate circuit boards require a highly specialized workforce to create them. The less technically demanding assembly of the chassis can be done in places like Mexico. Some of the XBR direct views actually are assembled in the good ol' USA.


----------



## smirnoffski




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by montreal_
> *Pull out the infamous B board and you'll see it marked MADE IN JAPAN. The multilayer delicate circuit boards require a highly specialized workforce to create them. The less technically demanding assembly of the chassis can be done in places like Mexico. Some of the XBR direct views actually are assembled in the good ol' USA.*



Correct, certain elements of the interior circuitry may be made in Japan or other countries but the final assembly point is NOT Japan hence the TV is not labeled that way on the rear. I have an XBR450, which is labeled MADE in MEXICO and have seen the $4000 XBR2 which was around a few years back also labeled MADE in MEXICO. I dount that there are any SONY tubes left coming from Japan or tubes from any other manufacturer (but I think Panasonic recently had their 34in HD sets coming from Japan, but don't know about the new ones.)



On a side note, I was at Circuit City, Good Guys and Fry's today.

Circuit City did not give me a date for the 960 but said that they are taking pre-orders, the price showed up as $2049.99; there were no 910s left in stock.

Good Guys said they expect the 960 around Sunday, and price showed up as $2099.99; they also had no 910s left and tried to sell me their display model.

Fry's had it no where in their system.


----------



## cad_3




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by cpschmidt2_
> 
> XBR960 10% off CC price (which is lower than Sony Style's price)
> 
> 18 months free basic delivery
> 
> 
> HT6600 home theater
> 
> 10% off CC price
> 
> will get $400 rebate from Sony
> 
> ---
> 
> _Originally posted by JamisonBWolsh_
> *I hope this is truth. It sounds like you got a rep who does not know how to do his/her Job.
> 
> 
> 1.) XBR is NOT 10 percent off (fine print excludes the XBR)
> 
> 2.) HTIB- Its eithor the 18 months OR the 10 percent off.. NOT BOTH.
> 
> 3.) Delivery. Its Possible. I hear some CC's will haggle. Mine does not. Most does not from the CC's I went to.
> 
> 
> Hey Schmidt- You should have taken the deal offered by SONY. No payments untill 2006- SWEET!*



Hey Jamison,


Schmidt's deal is close to mine.

34XBR960 10% of CC

HT6600DP 10% of CC

XBR1 stand (open box) 50% of CC

Will get the $400 Sony Rebate (HOWEVER, no financing!)


I'm sure you're happier w/ your financing, but I have the cash, and don't want to carry debt, so I'm much happier w/ additional %% off.


How did I get it?
www.circuitcity.com 

There are 24 stores within 100 miles of you.


#1 Hi, Can I speak to a manager of Tv's please? blah...

#2 Hi, Can I speak to a manager of Tv's please?

#3 Hi....

#4

etc.


Yeah, it took me a while longer but I eventaully got it. Additionally, I did not opt for deliver, HOWEVER, they are shipping it to the nearest store to me, which works well, as I've a couple of big strong friends to help.










I just wanted to let other know it's possible... you just have to put in a little more work... Excited!!! Now I just have to sit back and wait for it to get in!!!

-C
*Ps. I just want to shout out a thanks to everyone. I lurk way more than I post, as I'm still a neophyte, n00b, newbie, greener, etc, but I want to thank EVERYONE for both their Q's and their A's. Here's to a great system! and a great price!







*


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

Show Off!!!


----------



## RJB in Phila

At my CC, they said they had 9 of the first shipment of 12 already pre-sold. Fortunately, I'm number 1 on the list.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

They already got their first shipment? also... they had in their computers how many they are getting?


----------



## spider4re

Has anyone taken advantage of the deal from the best price "leader" on the site:

http://www.geocities.com/kd34xbr960/...br960page.html 



If anyone has receved a great deal please email or post on the guest book on the page so I can update the site for other avs members. I have gotten the tweeter and CC prices but I don't have a gg or ultimate (along with other mid level retailers) pricing.


Thanks for your help and have a great 4th!


----------



## bsd107

OK, I just picked up my KD34XBR960 from Good Guys - two of them arrived today. I just finished installing and hooking it up - right now it's doing the autoscan for channels.


I haven't had any time to play with it yet (and this is my first HDTV) - I just wanted to let everyone know that the TVs are actually in existence!


----------



## spongebob

Game On!












bob


----------



## helser




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by bsd107_
> *OK, I just picked up my KD34XBR960 from Good Guys - two of them arrived today. I just finished installing and hooking it up - right now it's doing the autoscan for channels.
> 
> 
> I haven't had any time to play with it yet (and this is my first HDTV) - I just wanted to let everyone know that the TVs are actually in existence!*



Do you have an HDTV feed? What kind of SDTV feed do you have? Pls keep us informed.


Thanks,

Gordon


----------



## smirnoffski




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by bsd107_
> *OK, I just picked up my KD34XBR960 from Good Guys - two of them arrived today. I just finished installing and hooking it up - right now it's doing the autoscan for channels.
> 
> 
> I haven't had any time to play with it yet (and this is my first HDTV) - I just wanted to let everyone know that the TVs are actually in existence!*



It would be great if you make a separate thread refelcting your initial impressions! Anyway, keep us all posted on developments!


----------



## igreg

We are all waiting...you have quite an audience : )


----------



## helser

Two 960's in stock in San Jose:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...hreadid=419076 


Gordon


----------



## helser




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by smirnoffski_
> *It would be great if you make a separate thread refelcting your initial impressions! Anyway, keep us all posted on developments!*



I hope you all that get 960's will stay in this thread for now. It saves going thru the index looking for new 960 threads. This thread seems to me like the perfect place to keep the discussion of what you all find.


IMHO,

Gordon


----------



## bsd107

My first impressions of the XBR960 are good overall. HD material looks fantastic - even The Tonight Show is jaw dropping. (Note that although I am a massive techno-geek, this is my first HDTV).


I have only basic cable service right now, but I can pick up most local networks in HD. I can also pick up some obviously "Digital Cable" channels - but only the ones that preview pay per view. This at least gives me some feel for how digital cable will look.


There are some stations on digital cable that I've always wanted, but I've basically refused to have a set top box. The way it intereferes with VCR operation, negates many features built into the TV, requiring another non-standard remote, etc., made me refuse to deal with a box. (Not that I'm not capable - just unwilling!) The new CableCard standard for me is a dream come true.


I have ordered a CableCard, as well as additional digital cable and HD content, through Time Warner, but they insist on installing it (like I couldn't find the slot) and they didn't have an opening until a week from now. Oh well... At least I have some local HD stations to test the TV with.


My first impression after turning the TV on wasn't good. The setup menu that appears automatically (apparently the first time you turn it on) was blurry. I mean, it was legible and all, but not impressive at all for a set that is supposed to be able to resolve close to 1400 lines. My impression from this, as well as screen edges when watching 4:3, etc., lead me to believe that the convergence on my set is sigificantly off. I hope someone can recommend to me a way to correct it. (I have to think that HD will look even better after correction.)


The first TV image I actually saw is a digital cable pay-per-view preview, and it looked horrible. Artifacts everywhere. I have to admit that it scared the crap out of me (i.e. based on all the complaints I had read about artifacts, to think it really IS that bad). In any case, it turn out that this particular channel is clearly overcompressed before transmission - i.e. some other digital cable preview stations I've found typically look very, very good.


My analog SD channels all look poor - but I don't think it's the TV's fault. For some reason, my analog cable reception degraded significantly several months ago. I notice this on the other analog sets in my house. Basically, all analog cable stations have significant noise throughout the picture. I had had this problem a couple years ago, and I had Time Warner improve it significantly. But something happened and it's degraded again. (I've checked all the connections in my hub, etc. I have cable modem, so there is a splitter before my USTec hub. I'm suspecting the splitter, becuase that was the culprit before. Does anyone make ultra-high quality splitters that I could buy?)


In any case, the analog channels on my XBR960 show way more static than my 9-year old Sony 32" set, and more than my 14-year old Mitsu 20" set. The noise does look much worse on the XBR960. I really can't tell if this is a fault of the DRC amplifying it, or just that this set can resolve it more due to the higher resolution. I'm assuming the latter. Note that I do NOT see any significant artifacting or degradation of the image due to the DRC, like I used to see on the first generation Wegas with line-doublers. But I probably just am not a good candidate for this test right now due to the high noise level in my signal to start with. [When Time Warner is out to install the CableCard, I'll be sure to have them fix the analog signal, too!]


I have a five year old Sony DVD player (530D). I bought some good component cables today, also. Anyway, I fired up one of my kids cartoon DVDs, and the sharpness and colors were absolutely stunning. Really impressive. After seeing HDTV, I figured there would be no way that 480i DVD could look nearly as good. But the colors in particular were spectacular.


In terms of features, I really like the look of the menus. It's amazing how a higher resolution menu with nicer fonts makes the whole TV seem much higher class. I'm really glad they did this.


Most of my stations do not have information in the guide, but a small number of this do. This would be the fault of my cable company, I assume.


I've found the Guide to be basically useless. Really, it's no different than just surfing the channels yourself. I mean, it only lists info on the current station/program, and simply has a list down the side showing the stations that you'll switch to next if you go down the list. I really don't understand the point. If you simply use the channel up & down buttons it accomplishes the same thing - without the channel list covering the left portion of the screen.


I really like the idea of the favorites list. BUT, it's also useless if you have lots of HD or QAM channels on your favorites. I mean, you can still use it as a hotlist, but it won't show a preview of any digital channels, even if you are currently viewing an analog station. I find that limitation very annoying (90% of the favorites on my list are digital!), and it negates the usefulness of the idea.


TwinView is a great idea, and works really nice. BUT, I don't know how to keep the audio fixed on one side, while you surf on the other side. It wants to fix the audio on whichever View you are currently changing. (My 9-year old 32" Sony has PIP with dual tuners, and you can assign the audio to play from either window at the press of a button on the remote.]


The speaker system seems to be reasonable for a TV, but of course will not take the place of a stereo. But it is clear that there is a "TV grade" subwoofer in there. I've heard some pretty nice sounds come from the TV - some of my impression may be more due to the much higher fidelity sound from HD...


Overall, I'm thrilled to finally own a Sony Wega HDTV. I've wanted this model (i.e. it's earlier equivalents) since I saw the first Sony Wega 34" HDTV back in 1997. I've watched and drooled over the years as it came down from $8000, and as features and picture quality improved. It's amazing what 7 years of development and progress can do!


Aside from getting the CableCard installed, I need to figure out a way to improve the convergence. Aside from that, seems like a great set so far...



[Does anyone know if I'd be able to use the firewire ports on the XBR960 and my laptop to record and playback HDTV???]


----------



## BloatedCorpse

..thanks for taking timeout of your tv honeymoon to share some first impressions bsd. I have to admit, the convergence concern is troubling. I've been through several 34HS510's, which also had convergence nightmares, and I'm on my last 510 now as I wait with the rest of the free world for my replacement 960. When I first fired up the 510 last december I had similar reactions to the sd channels that you mentioned. I incorrectly assumed, it was my first hdtv too, that all the cable channels would look great. Unfortunately, I think you'll have to learn to accept the hard fact that sd programming will, in some cases, look significantly worse to your eye than with your previous set. I'm no tech expert by any stretch of the imagination, but I think a lot of this pq on my set is due to compressed information sent out by the cable company. I would advise you to enjoy your set, but also put it through it's paces with an avia dvd or similar product. There are some helpful test patterns and color fields on those that can really help with at least the user calibration. Good luck and happy viewing...you've made us all an eerie glowing green...

BC


----------



## foxfan

Has anyone here who has already received the 960 tried to place it on the 34XBR1 stand (last year's model). Can you confirm it will fit? I want to buy an xbr1 in advance at a low price since it looks nicer and is cheaper than the new stands but want to make sure it fits.


Did the CC stores put the 34XBR960s on demo yet? I might go to one today.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

I already bought the XBR1 stand. Sonystyle confirms that the 960 WILL FIT!!!!


----------



## RJB in Phila

Thanks, BSD! I'm still waiting for mine.


----------



## cad_3




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by JamisonBWolsh_
> *They already got their first shipment? also... they had in their computers how many they are getting?*



LOL... I have to comment. In so much as I talked w/ like a dozen different stores (and mind you they are all within 50 miles of each other and all get their deliveries from the same major warehouse... the information is *NOT* shared equally. From one, I got that they were getting a bunch in on Sat. Another stated that they were getting 95 models in to that warehouse but no idea how they where going to be split up. The other 85% had no clue.


It's truly amazing how many different answers you can get talk to that many people. Well... I'm just crossing my fingers and hoping it's sooner than later!









-C


----------



## Tly

So if SD programming looks bad over analog cable, what about SD programming over digital cable? Will that usually look the same, better, or worse?


tks,


Ty


----------



## smirnoffski

I bought my 960 from Good Guys today through their 24 month no interest plan. They only had two units for their first shipment, one went on display and the other was immediately sold. So I have to wait for their next shipment as my unit will be delivered to me next saturday. I will also keep you folks posted.

Oh and for a stand, I tried to haggle to get free but to no avail so I will be picking up this stand from CC for my 960:
http://www.circuitcity.com/detail.js...&oid=69535&m=0 





> Quote:
> _Originally posted by JamisonBWolsh_
> *I already bought the XBR1 stand. Sonystyle confirms that the 960 WILL FIT!!!!*



They set up the display model 960 right before my eyes today at my local Good Guys. They placed it on the XBR1 stand, I can also confirm that it is a perfect fit.

BUT, the colors are slightly off. The XBR1 stand is silver whereas the XBR960 shell has a slight bluish hue, so not a perfect match in that regard, but this I think would not be much of a problem for most of you.


----------



## helser

Nice stand. I am looking for a stand with more useable shelf space, than the XBR1 or the new one, whatever it's number is. My CC seemed to have a nice selection the last time I looked.


----------



## BloatedCorpse

...tly, I think digital sd looks a lot better on the HD than the sd over analog. Sometimes the artifacts can still be jarring though, so I would say that while digital looks better, it still looked cleaned on my old analog set. I'm curious to hear how the DRC functions on the 960.


----------



## bigbasin

I bought my 960 today at the Santa Clara Good Guys for about 100 less than msrp. they will deliver the beast on monday before 7pm pst.


my initial setup sources will include comcast hdtv settop box without pvr, a sa tivo and a five year old panasonic a110 dvd player. (i am waiting for the denon 3810 before settling on a progressive dvd player) I have Comcast's platnium service.


I have the hdtv settop box connected to my dell 17 inch lcd tv in the bedroom and the sd looks ok on that set.


I have my Avia dvd ready to calibrate.....


counting down...


----------



## pt270

bigbasin, do the GoodGuys have the 960 setup on display or just in their warehouse . Sure would like to see the set before buying.Thanks


----------



## bigbasin

on display with dvd and maybe directv


----------



## daumier

Went to Video Only here in Portland -- they have 'em! Got mine for a sweet deal (well below MSRP). GG has them too, but they wouldn't play ball on the price. Will post review later (I can't pick it up until tomorrow because I need to borrow a friend's truck).


----------



## gundyrat1

Which store location Daumier?

I was at the Janzten Beach store today and they still had 910's on closeout,

and circuit city just across the parking lot also had a 910

Plus did they offer you any type of extended warrenty as

they have no service department.

I was there to take a measurement I was going to add a plexiglass top to my 36"wide TV stand but eccentually the bottom is flat so I can live with a 2" over hang on each front corner

Anyway Congrats on your puchase


----------



## avdoc

Wanted to let everyone know I ordered my 960 from CC yesterday. The price that popped up was 2199.99 and not 2049.98 as previous. I'm not sure why it's changed, but luckily I had seen the previous price and the manager gave me the lower price. I bought the 3 yr ext warranty for 249.99. I also got the HT6600dp for $499.98 so that I could use the rebate. The price on the HT6600dp has apparently also increased as it came up $569.99 on the computer while the tag read 499. Apparently they hadn't changed the tag but they gave me the lower price. I have no firm delivery date as there are none in the warehouse, but they're to call and let me know.

I also wanted to let people know I saw the new Panasonic widescreen 34" set next to the Sony xbr910. It was absolutely no contest, the sony made the panasonic look terrible! I was really hoping the panasonic would be comparable so I could save a lot of money, but the panasonic was very blurry appearing next to the razor sharp sony. Both were hooked up to the same HD feed.


----------



## spongebob

Saw it a GG. Liked it







Seemed brighter than the 910 but no A/B. Picture at standard setting was "48", not maxxed. Before, I always had to max out the picture on a 910 in the store to seem bright enough. New menus are beautiful, sharp and really impressed me!


bob


----------



## drvais

Can someone please perform a test to see if you can get the set to output Dolby Digital or DTS when a JVC DVHS deck is connected via Firewire to the set?


----------



## daumier




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by gundyrat1_
> *Which store location Daumier?
> 
> I was at the Janzten Beach store today and they still had 910's on closeout,
> 
> and circuit city just across the parking lot also had a 910
> 
> Plus did they offer you any type of extended warrenty as
> 
> they have no service department.
> 
> I was there to take a measurement I was going to add a plexiglass top to my 36"wide TV stand but eccentually the bottom is flat so I can live with a 2" over hang on each front corner
> 
> Anyway Congrats on your puchase*



Jantzen Beach - I was there yesterday later in the evening. They had one on display -- but if that one sold, ask them about later shipments. I believe they're getting more shipment from Salem as I took the last one in the box.


One other thing, the retail price they have is already below MSRP -- go check it out on the floor.


D


----------



## foxfan




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by smirnoffski_
> *
> 
> 
> 
> They set up the display model 960 right before my eyes today at my local Good Guys. They placed it on the XBR1 stand, I can also confirm that it is a perfect fit.
> 
> BUT, the colors are slightly off. The XBR1 stand is silver whereas the XBR960 shell has a slight bluish hue, so not a perfect match in that regard, but this I think would not be much of a problem for most of you.*



Wow! Do you have a picture of this??? I can't wait to see what a metallic-blue contour would look like. I guess they decided to do this to differentiate the XBR960 from the XS955 (which will look exactly like the XBR910). Good thing I didn't buy the old stand...


----------



## rostov




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by avdoc_
> *Wanted to let everyone know I ordered my 960 from CC yesterday. The price that popped up was 2199.99 and not 2049.98 as previous. I'm not sure why it's changed, but luckily I had seen the previous price and the manager gave me the lower price. I bought the 3 yr ext warranty for 249.99. I also got the HT6600dp for $499.98 so that I could use the rebate. The price on the HT6600dp has apparently also increased as it came up $569.99 on the computer while the tag read 499. Apparently they hadn't changed the tag but they gave me the lower price. I have no firm delivery date as there are none in the warehouse, but they're to call and let me know.*



Is CC throwing in a free stand? The xbr960 page lists the free stand, but the price is also listed as 2049, so maybe that's over now?


----------



## CPanther95

No listing on the CC website yet.


----------



## bsd107




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by avdoc_
> *Wanted to let everyone know I ordered my 960 from CC yesterday.
> 
> 
> I also wanted to let people know I saw the new Panasonic widescreen 34" set next to the Sony xbr910. It was absolutely no contest, the sony made the panasonic look terrible! I was really hoping the panasonic would be comparable so I could save a lot of money, but the panasonic was very blurry appearing next to the razor sharp sony. Both were hooked up to the same HD feed.*



You have to be very careful with these "same feed" comparisons. I saw the new Panasonic at CC right next to the XBR910. The Panasonic was blowing the XBR910 away. The reality wasn't believeable - clearly the "same feeds" weren't really the same quality, even though they were HD feeds. I saw this same issue all around the store.


The only real way to compare is to watch one set, then physically remove the video feed and connect to the other TV!


----------



## bsd107




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by spongebob_
> *Saw it a GG. Liked it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seemed brighter than the 910 but no A/B. Picture at standard setting was "48", not maxxed. Before, I always had to max out the picture on a 910 in the store to seem bright enough. New menus are beautiful, sharp and really impressed me!
> 
> 
> bob*



My XBR960 came from the factory set to "Vivid" mode, which is a ton brighter than "Normal" (which is the mode I use all the time).


Make sure to check this setting when doing brightness comparisons...


----------



## liu

gundyrat1,

Was in the Video Only in Beaverton at closing and they claim they had two with one being sold while they were checking the warehouse. This was at closing around 6:00 p.m. Good price without the hassle but I did not jump on it as I was looking for Dream System to get the rebeate and they did not have the one I wanted yet in their system.


----------



## helser




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by rostov_
> *Is CC throwing in a free stand? The xbr960 page lists the free stand, but the price is also listed as 2049, so maybe that's over now?*



What xbr960 page please? Web page? Newspaper insert?


Thanks,

Gordon


----------



## rostov

 http://www.geocities.com/kd34xbr960/...br960page.html


----------



## gundyrat1




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by daumier_
> *Jantzen Beach - I was there yesterday later in the evening. They had one on display -- but if that one sold, ask them about later shipments. I believe they're getting more shipment from Salem as I took the last one in the box.
> 
> 
> One other thing, the retail price they have is already below MSRP -- go check it out on the floor.
> 
> 
> D*



Now I didint actually look at the model Number cause it well looked just like the 910 I saw there 2 weeks ago on the same stand in the same spot marked down to 1799 for closeout.

So maybe they had it in the back and moved it out later in the day.

they generally have stuff at below msrp anyway cause they only buy what Consumer report rates as 1,2,3,

they buy in volume and pay cash.

The down side is there 7 day return policy and no service department

I've purchase a few things there.

I've never actually asked them If they are Authorzed resellers for the Brands they carry

Just be 100% sure your getting the 960 and not a 910


----------



## leatherman

How about some more reviews of the TV ?


----------



## gundyrat1

when I did my comparison of the JVC the 910 and Panasonic They had the colors looking better on the JVC and my wife thought it looked the best

what I was looking at was Mask detail and the fine pitch that the XBR uses clearly Better than the other 2


The DVD was smooth with no apparent grill or grid pattern that you could see on the other 2 sets

I guess from a distance you wouldn't normally see the Masking of the apeture grill Pitch

Color setting can be adjust but


----------



## bigbasin

This is a five minute review:


The delivery guys from the good guys were on time and did a good job in setting up the tv - i had my inputs laid out before hand.


I have comcast cable in san jose. I live in a condo at the end of the cable run.


1. Minority Report on HD looks terrific.


2. When I watch the local channels hd version such as kgo, I get a torn upper edge on the picture. When I go to the non-hd version, this does not occur. Don't understand what is happening here. This does not happen on all the local hd channels because the hd channel for the local pbs station fills the screen, though not as sharp as a hd picture can be.


3. Have not seen a dvd yet, will watch seabiscut tonight, though it would only be through s-video for now.


4. Still playing with settings, so nothing to report yet, though it was set to vivid out of the box.


5. The sd channels are not too bad, just watch a minute or two, but I don't notice any major problems yet.


----------



## spider4re

The Circuit City "sale" on the 960 has ended but I will leave it on the xbr960 page because some people are emailing me that they haggled to get the special deal with the stand and the rebate (with the purchase of the dreamsystem). I am trying to keep the site as up to date as possible but it is easier for me if you email me from the page instead of PM'ing me.



It would be appreciated if a new owner could provide a review of the digital OTA tuner.



Thanks and congrats to those who have already taken possession of their 960!


----------



## spongebob

Yes, I know. It was on "Standard" and looked great.


bob



> Quote:
> _Originally posted by bsd107_
> *My XBR960 came from the factory set to "Vivid" mode, which is a ton brighter than "Normal" (which is the mode I use all the time).
> 
> 
> Make sure to check this setting when doing brightness comparisons...*


----------



## foxfan

Can anyone who has physically seen the TV confirm or deny the claim from another AVS contributor that the silver "shell" of the 960 has a blue-ish tint to it?


----------



## pt270

I saw the 960 on a 910 stand at the GGs,it fit perfect but did not match color wise. Yes the 960 has a blue grayish color shell with the black face.You will notice the color difference if you mount on a 910 stand.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

Can anyone confirm if CC has this set yet?


----------



## SonyHD

Sony now has the new 34"XBR960 stand on its website. There is no picture of it however. I'm guessing its new. Here is the link. http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTE...o32%22TVStands


----------



## daumier

I finally got a chance to look at a variety of materials on the TV. Unfortunately, I don't have HD content (satellite or cable) yet -- I'm going to pick up an antenna (indoor, since I live in a condo) and hopefully I'll get some OTA signals.


DVD - tried Little Nemo on my old but reliable Toshiba SD2900 - no progressive - just plain ol' 480i. The picture thus far looks terrific - but it is definitely not as sharp as HD materials (wish I have one of those Roku boxes).


Xbox - I have the Matrix game, which is 1080i material. I set the Xbox to display 1080i and 720p -- and it automatically displays the material in its appropriate resolution. The verdict: definitely better than my DVD player. Picture is sharp and vivid.


To do: I'm going to get Video essentials and calibrate my tv. Dunno yet if I want to get ISF calibration done yet at this point.


I will try to post a lengthier review within the next several days as I get to test out more stuff.


----------



## daumier




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by gundyrat1_
> *Now I didint actually look at the model Number cause it well looked just like the 910 I saw there 2 weeks ago on the same stand in the same spot marked down to 1799 for closeout.
> 
> So maybe they had it in the back and moved it out later in the day.
> 
> they generally have stuff at below msrp anyway cause they only buy what Consumer report rates as 1,2,3,
> 
> they buy in volume and pay cash.
> 
> The down side is there 7 day return policy and no service department
> 
> I've purchase a few things there.
> 
> I've never actually asked them If they are Authorzed resellers for the Brands they carry
> 
> Just be 100% sure your getting the 960 and not a 910
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *










-- Ya I was worried about that too -- I couldn't believe it at first that the 960 sticker price was that much lower than MSRP - esp. since it is quite a popular model these days. I was even more surprised that they were willing to knock some $$ off on top of that!


But sure enough - they pulled a XBR960 box out of the back - and it's now sitting in my living room.


Re: warranty - I didn't get any extra warranties. I figure I can buy an extended warranty someplace else (I think I can get them at TV Authority). Plus, my parents had a Trinitron Sony tv from 1979 that still runs today - so I'm quite confident about the quality of the unit.


----------



## bpt8056




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by daumier_
> *Re: warranty - I didn't get any extra warranties. I figure I can buy an extended warranty someplace else (I think I can get them at TV Authority). Plus, my parents had a Trinitron Sony tv from 1979 that still runs today - so I'm quite confident about the quality of the unit.*



Don't expect to have the same quality of the new one as the older models. The older Sony TVs were built in Japan and now it is being manufactured in Japan. Some of the members here can say that quality isn't the same as it was before (when TVs were produced in Japan).


Glad you're enjoying your new XBR960!


----------



## TH3_FRB

Well, you've got 2 years from Sony and another year on top of that if you used AMEX or Visa. But I'd be careful about assuming that it'll be completely reliable just because it's an XBR...



> Quote:
> _Originally posted by daumier_
> *
> 
> Re: warranty - I didn't get any extra warranties. I figure I can buy an extended warranty someplace else (I think I can get them at TV Authority). Plus, my parents had a Trinitron Sony tv from 1979 that still runs today - so I'm quite confident about the quality of the unit.*


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

Hmmmm..... I read that you have to wait 100 hours of using your tv before you calibrate the set. It needs this time to "settle in".


I think CC Dropped the ball on the 960. GG gets the set in BEFORE cc.....what the?


----------



## daumier

Point well taken about the quality. Yeah, I may look into aftermarket extended warranties after all. I think TV Authority has a warranty program that one can buy even if the TV is purchased someplace else.


Re: the burn-in time -- since I have alloted my entire home entertainment budget for the summer (according to my wife







), I'm going to wait until the fall anyway before making decisions on ISF.


Hopefully by this weekend I can have a more thorough review.


Btw - since there were many posts regarding TV stands, I have an Ikea stand that fits the TV quite perfectly. I'll post a pic later today . . .


----------



## edstalnaker

Which Ikea stand are you using? None of the Ikea stands I have checked out can handle the weight of the TV plus the weight of a center channel speaker plus one component.


----------



## CPanther95

I need approx. 40" tall stand for this TV - haven't had any luck finding anything yet.


----------



## TH3_FRB

I'd check into EWs now but wait till your factory warranty is about gone before spending the cash. The EW that TVA sells can be purchased up to 90 days before the original warranty is up. The way I see it, why spend $300 on an extended warranty that you might not need? For example, I bought my 40XBR800 in September and due to some problems, Sony is replacing it with a new model (960). Had I bought an EW, I would have completely wasted that $$$ since the EW wouldn't transfer and the replacement is coming under the original warranty.



> Quote:
> _Originally posted by daumier_
> *Point well taken about the quality. Yeah, I may look into aftermarket extended warranties after all. I think TV Authority has a warranty program that one can buy even if the TV is purchased someplace else.
> 
> *


----------



## edstalnaker

Did you only have the 2-year Sony warranty? I take it they do in-house service then? I'm interested in a 960 but don't want to have to buy an extended warranty.


----------



## TH3_FRB

The 40XBR800 has a 2-year in-home warranty and now all XBR sets have 2 years. AMEX will extend the original warranty up to 1 additional year if you make the purchase on the card.



> Quote:
> _Originally posted by edstalnaker_
> *Did you only have the 2-year Sony warranty? I take it they do in-house service then? I'm interested in a 960 but don't want to have to buy an extended warranty.*


----------



## edstalnaker

But is the warranty on the 960 in-home?


----------



## bpt8056




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by bpt8056_
> *Don't expect to have the same quality of the new one as the older models. The older Sony TVs were built in Japan and now it is being manufactured in Mexico. Some of the members here can say that quality isn't the same as it was before (when TVs were produced in Japan).
> 
> 
> Glad you're enjoying your new XBR960!*



EDITED: Typed in Japan instead of Mexico. My apologies.


----------



## Sizam




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by edstalnaker_
> *Which Ikea stand are you using? None of the Ikea stands I have checked out can handle the weight of the TV plus the weight of a center channel speaker plus one component.*



I've been using the below stand for 2.5 years now and its worked fine with a 34xbr800, Denon 3801 and several other components totaling up to around 350lbs I think (stand rated to 200lbs). I admit I've had to add a couple shims under it in the last half year but if you took out the legs it'd be fine:

http://www.ikea-usa.com/webapp/wcs/s...hapterId=10444


----------



## drvais

I prefer Sanus' Euro Style Video furniture for my 34XBR. It's modular, so you can make it as high or as low as you want (within reason, of course).


----------



## leatherman

Please, more TV reviews less stand reviews


----------



## Rizzle

I'll have a review when they deliver mine tomorrow at 4pm. I'll also post pics of the 960/SUXBR1 stand combo. Can't wait.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

Why o Why has CC not recieved them yet? Whats wrong with them???


CC should have gotten them before these other stores. ESPECIALLY GG's...


----------



## henryjinjin

Hi all,


I picked up mine in Seattle over the weekend and have been testing it out. The OTA tuner seems fine, and I have hooked up a jvc 30k dvhs by ilink and it is quite convenient to record from the tuner to the jvc. It is also really nice to have a remote that can navigate pretty well in this setup.


I think the future is here, the all in one boxes will be VERY convenient for a good number of consumers.


My hdmi cable will arrive this week and I will see how it responds with my Pio59avi.


----------



## Sizam

Grr, I had special ordered one from GG and called them today to discover that "Yes, we have had them in stock, sorry that we didn't call you". Argh, friggin call me people! Thursday morning will be the soonest they can deliver, I must say, with the recent change in ownership of GG I've been more and more dissapointed with them.


----------



## drvais

Could anyone else please report if they have a DVHS deck connected to the set via I.Link?


----------



## Spiffybiff

On Saturday, I got a phone call from a saleman at GG (told him a month a go that I was interested in the tv and I gave him my number). He told me that the TV was in. Ran out to the store that same day. Looked at it for 10 minutes, wasn't too impressed with the in store demo. But, I have waited over two months for a 34" tv. He matched CC's price + $100 for 3 yrs warranty. So I bought it. Threw it in the back of a friends truck and went home.

It took four guys to move it. This thing is a beast.

I turned it on, first thing that popped up was tilting the screen menu. I thought was odd. But it looked find so I didn't bother changing anything. Then it went straight to scanning for channel. I didn't have an antenna hook-up so I cancelled that.

I connected my Pioneer Dv-47ai via quality component to the tv. I stuck in the Black Hawk Down (superbit). I changed the picture from Vivid to Movie, and I was impressed. I do like the Pro Setting better with an adjustment to the sharpness. I am not an expert at reviewing TV's. I can't tell you how accurate the color is. I can say that the picture is extremely impressive. Too my eyes I can't find any fault. The DRC does make a huge difference on DVD movies. I prefer to set the DRC to high. I can't see any scan line unless I am six inches away and looking for it. I have thrown in other movies, and have been extremely pleased with the picture. Also a feature that I like is that it automatically switches from 4:3 image to 16:9, you don't have to press the screen format button.

Since this is my bedroom set, I will use it mostly for Xbox games and casual DVD watching. I have to say 480p games are excellent, 720p games are stunning.

The sound is clean and clear with plenty of bass.

I will get a good antenna for Hi-Def channel and will report on it.

For now, I only have one complaint, and price isn't it. The remote is terrible for a universal. I can't skip DVD chapter with the remote. I won't be using the remote much.

I highly recommend this TV. With all the features built in like iLink, HDMI, cable card, memory stick. You really can't go wrong with this set. Maybe next year as suggestion, throw in a 120gig hard drive for some Tivo action.


----------



## Sizam

DRC on movies, do you not have a progressive scan DVD player?!?! I thought DRC was disabled for anything higher then 480i...? If you don't have a prog scan DVD player for your new HDTV you need to:


1. Slap self

2. Drop everything and go buy one now

3. Slap self again for good measure


In that order


----------



## Spiffybiff

My Pioneer Dv-47ai is a very fine progressive dvd player. I think the DRC upconverts the progressive image to a 1080i. It says 4x the image quality. I'm not sure. but, I like the results of the DRC.


----------



## daumier




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Sizam_
> *DRC on movies, do you not have a progressive scan DVD player?!?! I thought DRC was disabled for anything higher then 480i...? If you don't have a prog scan DVD player for your new HDTV you need to:
> 
> 
> 1. Slap self
> 
> 2. Drop everything and go buy one now
> 
> 3. Slap self again for good measure
> 
> 
> In that order*



DRC is not available in 480p, 720, or 1080i (at least, on the Xbox - when I tried playing a 480p game - Unreal Tournament and a 1080i game - Matrix).


DRC was available in 480i when I used my non-progressive DVD player.


----------



## Spiffybiff

Maybe it was the Clear Edge VM that I was playing with. I will check when I get home.


----------



## leatherman

Amazing how everyone who has the TV hasn't hooked up an HDTV tuner to it yet. DVDs are only 480p so they hardly tell the whole story. Hopefully someone will give us an HDTV review soon.


----------



## leatherman

Did anyone receive their set from Sonystyle.com yet? If so, I was wondering did they deliver it on time? Did they double box it? Wondering if they have gotten their act together. The site seems to have poor reviews from what I have seen.


----------



## Yung

What CC sale was there on the xbr960? I asked two salespeople at my local CC on the east coast and they were clueless as to when they would get the new xbr960 in. They were still selling the xbr910 for $2,499 with an sale on an open box one for $2,099.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

It wasnt "official". It was just in their system a good discount







Thanks to RJB, I got in before they raised the price and pre-bought it. The GG's and Magnolia in the los angeles area does not have the 960 in yet. All places removed the 910 from their showroom floor though.,..


----------



## jinjinhenry




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by leatherman_
> *Amazing how everyone who has the TV hasn't hooked up an HDTV tuner to it yet. DVDs are only 480p so they hardly tell the whole story. Hopefully someone will give us an HDTV review soon.*





Hi,


Since it has a built in hd tuner, there is no need to add a box - except for on demand or ppv.


I think it also upconverts 480p (I'll have to check), I think I remember being able to use the DRC mode when using a progressive scan player in 480p?


----------



## TH3_FRB

I think the point was that nobody has given a review of this set with real HD material yet...like DirectTV HD or cable HD...DVD is nice but HD is where this set should really shine.




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by jinjinhenry_
> *Hi,
> 
> 
> Since it has a built in hd tuner, there is no need to add a box - except for on demand or ppv.
> 
> 
> I think it also upconverts 480p (I'll have to check), I think I remember being able to use the DRC mode when using a progressive scan player in 480p?*


----------



## jinjinhenry




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by TH3_FRB_
> *I think the point was that nobody has given a review of this set with real HD material yet...like DirectTV HD or cable HD...DVD is nice but HD is where this set should really shine.*




OTA HD is still HD as I recall.










ABC sends 720p and has some true hd material. NBC, CBS, PBS also sends 1080i over the air.


The 960 is nice, since it also tells you the resolution sent in the channel info (for instance, on pbskids digital, the 960 tells you it is sent as 480i. PBS HD shows 1080i).


----------



## gundyrat1




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by leatherman_
> *Did anyone receive their set from Sonystyle.com yet? If so, I was wondering did they deliver it on time? Did they double box it? Wondering if they have gotten their act together. The site seems to have poor reviews from what I have seen.*



Well My delivery is sched for Wed 2 to 4pm I'll let everyone know how Sonystyle handled it although it should be the same box everyone else gets I won't have to install it though thats there job


----------



## daumier

No review yet -- but question for new owners: does your tv take several seconds to actually turn on after you hit the power button? Mine starts by degaussing itself (manual says this is normal), but then it takes about 10 - 15 seconds (I'm guessing here - haven't timed it yet) before it actually shows a picture.


Just want to make sure there is nothing wrong w/ my set.


thx!


D


----------



## spongebob

Went back to GG today. OTA HD on PBS= Stunning. OTA SD= Not even close to my 32xbr100. For now, I can't step backwards for SD because that is what we watch the most. I didn't play w/ DRC but can't believe that's going to get rid of all the artifacts and overall "dull" SD picture. BUT FOR HD, absolutely stunning










bob


----------



## helser

Thanks for that info spongebob. I mostly watch SD stuff recorded on my TiVo's. And DVD watching is acceptable now on my 36 inch 4:3 TV. I need to replace a 27 inch TV and was seriously thinking of doing it with the 960. But I think I will just get a decent 32 inch 4:3 with four inputs. I will probably wait until there are stand alone HD TiVo's, before getting a 16:9 TV. I'll save the money I was going to spend on the 960, to buy some SA HD TiVo's.


Gordon


Update: But then I go to the CR web site to look at their ratings for 32 inch 4:3 TVs and run across the 910 rating. They rate HD, Antenna and S-Video as excellent. So I guess I need to see SD on the 960 myself before giving up on the 960. Maybe compared to my 36 inch Zenith and 27 inch Mitsubishi and 32 inch JVC, the 960 SD will be fine.


----------



## igreg




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by spongebob_
> *Went back to GG today. OTA HD on PBS= Stunning. OTA SD= Not even close to my 32xbr100. For now, I can't step backwards for SD because that is what we watch the most. I didn't play w/ DRC but can't believe that's going to get rid of all the artifacts and overall "dull" SD picture. BUT FOR HD, absolutely stunning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> bob*



But this is not SDTV. Try the set with a DirecTV signal (or at least digital cable) and see if it makes a difference in picture quality. Thanks.


----------



## igreg




> _Originally posted by helser_
> 
> *Thanks for that info spongebob. I mostly watch SD stuff recorded on my TiVo's. And DVD watching is acceptable now on my 36 inch 4:3 TV. I need to replace a 27 inch TV and was seriously thinking of doing it with the 960. But I think I will just get a decent 32 inch 4:3 with four inputs. I will probably wait until there are stand alone HD TiVo's, before getting a 16:9 TV. I'll save the money I was going to spend on the 960, to buy some SA HD TiVo's.
> 
> 
> HDTV TIVO receivers exist now.
> 
> 
> See: http://www.solidsignal.com/prod_disp...PROD=HD-DVR250 *


----------



## gundyrat1




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by daumier_
> *No review yet -- but question for new owners: does your tv take several seconds to actually turn on after you hit the power button? Mine starts by degaussing itself (manual says this is normal), but then it takes about 10 - 15 seconds (I'm guessing here - haven't timed it yet) before it actually shows a picture.
> 
> 
> Just want to make sure there is nothing wrong w/ my set.
> 
> 
> thx!
> 
> 
> D*



Hmm My 12 yr old 27" Sony trinitron does that and has since day one

I'm thinking its probably normal


----------



## TH3_FRB

What do you mean "But this is not SDTV"? Of course it is...SD = standard definition. Perhaps you mean that OTA SD is not digital (like digital cable or DirectTV) which isn't necessarily true either. Many stations are broadcasting OTA on their digital frequencies but much of their content is still not HD. IMO the worst PQ will be from analog cable and then analog OTA signals. Digital SD PQ will vary depending on how much compression you're dealing with on a particular channel. My digital HBO (SD) is very nice, my analog HBO is decent, my analog local networks are marginal and some are just plain poor...and this is all on my current non-digital 4:3 set.



> Quote:
> _Originally posted by igreg_
> *But this is not SDTV. Try the set with a DirecTV signal (or at least digital cable) and see if it makes a difference in picture quality. Thanks.*


----------



## Rizzle




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by daumier_
> *No review yet -- but question for new owners: does your tv take several seconds to actually turn on after you hit the power button? Mine starts by degaussing itself (manual says this is normal), but then it takes about 10 - 15 seconds (I'm guessing here - haven't timed it yet) before it actually shows a picture.
> 
> 
> Just want to make sure there is nothing wrong w/ my set.
> 
> 
> thx!
> 
> 
> D*



Perfectly Normal. My 4 year of 27" Wega does the same thing. I think it waits for degaussing and warming up of the tube before its fires. So instead of the gradual blank screen to picture transition you see on other TV's, you get instant picture once the warm up process is complete.


----------



## spongebob




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by igreg_
> *But this is not SDTV. Try the set with a DirecTV signal (or at least digital cable) and see if it makes a difference in picture quality. Thanks.*




Great point! Maybe there is hope







Cant' check DTV or cable at GG, tho!


bob


----------



## helser




> _Originally posted by igreg_
> 
> *
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally posted by helser
> Thanks for that info spongebob. I mostly watch SD stuff recorded on my TiVo's. And DVD watching is acceptable now on my 36 inch 4:3 TV. I need to replace a 27 inch TV and was seriously thinking of doing it with the 960. But I think I will just get a decent 32 inch 4:3 with four inputs. I will probably wait until there are stand alone HD TiVo's, before getting a 16:9 TV. I'll save the money I was going to spend on the 960, to buy some SA HD TiVo's.
> 
> 
> HDTV TIVO receivers exist now.
> 
> 
> See: http://www.solidsignal.com/prod_disp...PROD=HD-DVR250
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Yes, I am aware of the DirecTV HD TiVo box. I do not want to go the DirecTV route. That is why I specified stand alone HD TiVo. Stand Alone as opposed to part of a set top box.
> 
> 
> Thanks anyway,
> 
> Gordon*


----------



## gundyrat1

Well Mine came today the crew From NVC direct Sony styles shipping outfit Called and asked if it was ok to come early.

So they showed up at 1:30 for 2pm to 4pm Sch delivery

It was only Tv on the Truck.


The Box was the same as everyone elses and kinda beat up,

I inspected it and noted it on the sheet.

Then the outer box was removed I inspected the casing for any damage and found none.

Then they brought it in and placed it on the stand.

It is Huge compared to my old 27".


Hitting the power button it came to life in 5 sec with the tilt geometry window.

Then came the channel search,

I cancelled that and proceeded with figuring out what Button brought up My DirecTV.


The Menu selections are nice, Currently I only have 1 RCA composite running to Video 1 and the a lead in from the sat dish for non-audio systems viewing to the UHF/VHF input.

Probably going to go with a Componant out of the AV Reciever to a trandcoder and run HDMI into the Set and then have the Spare DVI-HDMI port to run to the new Projector when I get it.


Then I ran a channel scan took about 10 mins Using just what the cable run to the dish is picking up I managed 7 analog and 7 Digital channels.


The analogs all look like crap pretty much like my old set.

However I'm really impressed with the digital channels No ghosting clear and crisp Probably going to dump local channels from the dish soon.

As for the Pic Quality on DirecTV it is as good as I had with the old 27".


I had a scan line issue but resolved with a cable reposition, the line that runs to the current splitter for the Tv and projector.

has a bad end and if It's not just right I get the swigglies on the Tv and Rolling on the Projector.


Laser Disc Performance is WOW and will probably even get better with the Componant Cable upgrade.


Then I tried the DVD player And it too was fantastic,

Who framed Roger Rabbit looked sweet and silky smooth with eye popping color.


Currently I'm on standard setting the film setting seams just a tad to dark atm.

I havn't tried the PS2 yet.

So far I am very please with its performance and am hoping to get a pic of it soon in action soon









The Delivery service

They didnt really know just what White glove delivery meant they did a good job getting it in though

I can say that Although Sonystyle has a bad rap

Eveything went together from the order to the delivery with one small boble I wasn't able to track it using there system.

But it wasnt enroute long enough to worry about it.

It came from Carson Calif.


----------



## Rizzle

There's been a lot of posts about people getting theirs but I haven't seen any pictures, so here goes.


Just set up on my XBR1 stand.










Here's a pic comparing the SU-XBR1 stand color to the 960. The 960 has a slightly bluish tint that's a little more matte than the stand.











The back of my 960, only plugged in a DVD player and my Xbox at this point.










The manual.










I'll probably post a review after I spend more time with it. I'm going into the service menu to adjust a few things, but my initial impression right out of the box is simply awe.


Alright, back to watching stuff with my jaw on the floor. Just wanted to post concrete pics showing they're out and in homes. Later.


----------



## foxfan

Sorry to inform you that your pictures aren't loading...


----------



## BloatedCorpse

..loaded fine for me...now the wait is even worse!...lucky son of a soandso!...it's just plain wrong for me to be sitting home alone with a lonely hdmi cable...


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

Hmmm...decision to go with CC might have been wrong???


----------



## helser

Great pictures, thanks. The color difference is very slight, but I could see how it could drive a person crazy once they see it. It seems to show up more on the front picture than on the close up that you took to show it.


----------



## RJB in Phila

Jamison, don't forget, we're saving some money with CC. Plus, we can return it to the store for 30 days. Is it worth it? I'm not sure!!!!!!!!


I am going to call CC today to see if they have any more info. I called them last Friday and they didn't yet have them in stock. I will let you know what they say.


----------



## spongebob




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by igreg_
> *But this is not SDTV. Try the set with a DirecTV signal (or at least digital cable) and see if it makes a difference in picture quality. Thanks.*




I want to respond to this again to be sure: The "SD" signal I saw was from an OTA antenna plugged into a DTV receiver, feeding the 960 into the video 6 (component) input. The store does not have DTV and I'm not sure why they did this? How is this different from putting the OTA antenna directly into the 960? Is one way SD and the other analog?


thx


bob


----------



## Acksull

Hey Rizzle, thanks for the pics. I'm wondering, is that back connection area located on the left side of the TV as it looks or is that more in the center? I just modified my TV cabinet to fit this beast and just assumed the connection area would be to the right like my 27" wega. uh oh.


Would it be possible to get a wider shot of the back?


----------



## TH3_FRB

When you say "DTV" do you mean DirectTV? So they are using an external digital tuner rather than the internal tuner in the set? No idea why they would do that other than they don't know anything about the set and don't know it has a digital tuner built in. Regardless, it was digital SD either way.



> Quote:
> _Originally posted by spongebob_
> *I want to respond to this again to be sure: The "SD" signal I saw was from an OTA antenna plugged into a DTV receiver, feeding the 960 into the video 6 (component) input. The store does not have DTV and I'm not sure why they did this? How is this different from putting the OTA antenna directly into the 960? Is one way SD and the other analog?
> 
> 
> thx
> 
> 
> bob*


----------



## spongebob




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by TH3_FRB_
> *When you say "DTV" do you mean DirectTV? So they are using an external digital tuner rather than the internal tuner in the set? No idea why they would do that other than they don't know anything about the set and don't know it has a digital tuner built in. Regardless, it was digital SD either way.*



Yes, Direct TV receiver (Sony)


thx


bob


----------



## spongebob




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by TH3_FRB_
> *When you say "DTV" do you mean DirectTV? So they are using an external digital tuner rather than the internal tuner in the set? No idea why they would do that other than they don't know anything about the set and don't know it has a digital tuner built in. Regardless, it was digital SD either way.*



So they could feed the Showtime/Discovery in house recorderd HD feed through it too?



bob


----------



## Rizzle




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Acksull_
> *Hey Rizzle, thanks for the pics. I'm wondering, is that back connection area located on the left side of the TV as it looks or is that more in the center? I just modified my TV cabinet to fit this beast and just assumed the connection area would be to the right like my 27" wega. uh oh.
> 
> 
> Would it be possible to get a wider shot of the back?*



Sure, I'll post a wider pic when I get home from work. Around 2:30 Eastern.


I just wish it came with a DVI-to-HDMI plug adapter in the box, like video cards that come with a DVI-to-VGA adapter as a convenience to the buyer.


----------



## foxfan

Thanks Rizzle for your pictures.


For all new XBR960 owners I have a question:

The manual seems to say that the standard RCA AV output jacks won't work when watching digital cable (HD or SD). Does this mean that the ONLY way to record anything off digital cable would be D-VHS through firewire? If that is the case, do the JVC decks have downconverted to SD AV outputs in order to transfer something to an old standard VHS deck?


----------



## Segaboy

foxfan,


I believe that the JVC D-Theater decks will indeed downconvert an HD or digital SD signal.


I just want to know, if I connect a JVC 40K D-theater deck to the firewire connectors and am using Cablecard, will I be able to archive all HD to the D-VHS deck?


This would include the Summer Olympics and shows like Alias???


----------



## drvais

I'll piggyback on on Segaboy here by asking for a third time, then I'm turning this into another thread: has anyone attempted D-Theatre playback on the set with a deck connected via Firewire?

If so, could you select different audio channels from the tape?


Thanks in advance!


----------



## RandyWalters




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by foxfan_
> *Thanks Rizzle for your pictures.
> 
> 
> For all new XBR960 owners I have a question:
> 
> The manual seems to say that the standard RCA AV output jacks won't work when watching digital cable (HD or SD). Does this mean that the ONLY way to record anything off digital cable would be D-VHS through firewire? If that is the case, do the JVC decks have downconverted to SD AV outputs in order to transfer something to an old standard VHS deck?*



I don't have a Sony but i'm pretty sure they're talking about the yellow Video Out jack on the back of the TV (my 32" HD-ready has the same jack). It's there to send on-screen video to an external monitor. Mine outputs on-screen video from all composite and S-Video inputs (such as my digital cable box, DVR, VCR, etc) but will not work if i'm watching DVD or HDTV via the component inputs.


This is probably part of the copy-protection scheme - so that you can't record cheat and record digital (via component) sources through this jack. As long as your digital cable box is connected via composite or S-video, i'm pretty sure the jack will work. I think by "digital" they mean signals on digital sources like HD or DVD.


----------



## Rizzle




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by RandyWalters_
> *I don't have a Sony but i'm pretty sure they're talking about the yellow Video Out jack on the back of the TV (my 32" HD-ready has the same jack). It's there to send on-screen video to an external monitor. Mine outputs on-screen video from all composite and S-Video inputs (such as my digital cable box, DVR, VCR, etc) but will not work if i'm watching DVD or HDTV via the component inputs.
> 
> 
> This is probably part of the copy-protection scheme - so that you can't record cheat and record digital (via component) sources through this jack. As long as your digital cable box is connected via composite or S-video, i'm pretty sure the jack will work. I think by "digital" they mean signals on digital sources like HD or DVD.*



The 960 doesn't need a set-top box, its got a built in tuner. He was asking if the television would downconvert the feed through the cablecard so it could be sent through the "monitor out" connection, or would he have to buy a D-VHS deck with Firewire in...and if so, do the D-VHS decks downconvert so he can record onto regular VHS tapes.


----------



## foxfan

That's right. Any answers?


----------



## RJB in Phila

According to a salesperson at CC, the Kd-34xbr960's are in the warehouse but not yet in the stores. I will try to get ahold of my salesperson tomorrow to see about scheduling a delivery.


If I hear anything different or get any additional information, I'll post it here.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

AWESOME!!!!! Thanks RJB!!!


----------



## cad_3




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by RJB in Phila_
> *I am going to call CC today to see if they have any more info. I called them last Friday and they didn't yet have them in stock. I will let you know what they say.*



For what it's worth, the CC in my area said they had a few in stock, but not in store.


At these CC (locally, not speaking nation wide), they only get stock on Wed & Sat (so if something comes into their warehouse on Thurs, I'll have to wait until Sat evening before they get it.)


I've been told I should be able to pick mine up on Sat. Just 2 more days!


----------



## RJB in Phila

CC called and said the 34XBR960 came in yesterday (Wed) and mine would be delivered on Saturday.


----------



## Phantastica

I ordered my set straight from Sony (I'm a Sony Pictures Entertainment employee) and it's going to be arriving on Monday. The SU-34XBR3 stand arrived from FedEx today, so I'll just be staring at an empty stand for the next few days.


As soon as I get the set I'll be hooking it up to my HTPC through a Radeon 9800. I'm going to try using a DVI-HDMI cable. I'm sure it'll be full of surprises, but at least the xbr960 maintains settings for individual inputs, so I should be able to correct the overscan for the HDMI input without messing up the other inputs.


Does anyone else have plans for hooking this up to an htpc?


----------



## Oliver Deplace




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Rizzle_
> *The 960 doesn't need a set-top box, its got a built in tuner. He was asking if the television would downconvert the feed through the cablecard so it could be sent through the "monitor out" connection, or would he have to buy a D-VHS deck with Firewire in...and if so, do the D-VHS decks downconvert so he can record onto regular VHS tapes.*



Can't the cable feed be sent directly to the VCR and passed to the TV?

Is a cable STB required (for a VCR) and if so, shouldn't the cable co. supply one?

Can't the feed be split between STB and TV?

From what I've read, D-VHS recorders will record VHS. But why would you want to subject it to the wear just for VHS?


----------



## JamisonBWolsh




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by RJB in Phila_
> *CC called and said the 34XBR960 came in yesterday (Wed) and mine would be delivered on Saturday.*




What The??? I called the CC and the warehouse that supplies the 960's to all their stores in southern california does not have ANY. They are empty. I would think los angeles would get them first... I am on the list. I wonder whats up?


----------



## RJB in Phila

Sorry, Jamison. I also would have thought the west coast would have them first, since the other stores such as GG got them early. If you find them somewhere else, you can always cancel CC and buy them from the other store. However, I would guess you will get yours soon.


----------



## pt270

My first impressions of my new 960 are mixed,my other tv that iam comparing it to is a sony 32HS500.First analog cable is just about unwatchable on this set,channels have excessive noise in the picture as my hs500 does not.Color is also washed out.The good thing is that are no scan lines visible. HDTV channels run though a motorola 5100 box are excellent and very 3d looking,something the HS500 can not do. Other digital cable channels that run though the box are no better than analog channels.Directv run though s-video most channels are again very washed out and have excessive noise.This is most disappointing, As on my hs500 they are for the most part excellent.DVDs run though componet input with monster cables have some visible noise and graininess to them, this is also disappointing as they again look excellent on my HS500.All piciture modes were used in my test with the Movie mode the best.Geometry is off on the left top and bottom right by about quarter inch, also when displaying a 4.3 picture both sides are pinched by about a quarter inch.I know this is a HDTV set first and a sdtv second.But i was expecting analog signals to be on par with my HS500.At this time i do not know if i will keep this set or return it.Comcast is installing a cablecard next week maybe that will make a difference in the analog channels.Have not hooked up a ota antenna do to line of sight problems with sutro tower in san francisco.Iwill say that the new menu and other features on this set are excellent.Will post updates if i go though with the cablecard install and keep this set.


----------



## Phantastica

So I wonder where all of this extra noise is coming from? The colour thing doesn't concern me as much, because I'm sure that can be tweaked. But why would this set display any extra noise then other Sony sets? Also, shouldn't this be on par with the 910, which I didn't think had any major complaints about noise (maybe I missed them)?


----------



## Rogster

I ordered mine through Tweeter in San Diego. They say they will have 42 units at the warehouse tomorrow. I am number 5 on the list (pre-ordered). I can't wait.


----------



## CPanther95

Anybody have a measurement from the base to the beginning of the screen? I have a shelf and I need the picture to clear the top of the footboard.


----------



## pt270

Five inches,base to screen.


----------



## bnbhoha

My local Video Only has these for xxx (oops, I just read the rules and cannot post price); you can usually talk them down a $100 or more bucks.


My question: I have Direct TV Satellite. It's all digital. Will it look good on this tv? I won't invest in a HD Direct Tivo for a few years until the price drops. I really want to get this TV after reading the reviews, but my concerns are picture quality + I am not to ofamiliar with HDTV. and am not sure if this TV is good for my setup.


Shows that are not broadcasted in widescreen, do they look all right when they are stretched to widescreen and do you have the option not to stretch?


I guess all tv is suppose to be broadcasted in HD in 2007. So does that mean will have our regular NBC channel for those who do not have cable (analog) and NBC2 for those who have HD/cable? I can't seem to grasp the concept on how they will broadcast the channels. Thanks


----------



## CPanther95




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by pt270_
> *Five inches,base to screen.*



Thanks...


----------



## igreg




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by pt270_
> *My first impressions of my new 960 are mixed,my other tv that iam comparing it to is a sony 32HS500.First analog cable is just about unwatchable on this set,channels have excessive noise in the picture as my hs500 does not.Color is also washed out.The good thing is that are no scan lines visible. HDTV channels run though a motorola 5100 box are excellent and very 3d looking,something the HS500 can not do. Other digital cable channels that run though the box are no better than analog channels.Directv run though s-video most channels are again very washed out and have excessive noise.This is most disappointing, As on my hs500 they are for the most part excellent.DVDs run though componet input with monster cables have some visible noise and graininess to them, this is also disappointing as they again look excellent on my HS500.All piciture modes were used in my test with the Movie mode the best.Geometry is off on the left top and bottom right by about quarter inch, also when displaying a 4.3 picture both sides are pinched by about a quarter inch.I know this is a HDTV set first and a sdtv second.But i was expecting analog signals to be on par with my HS500.At this time i do not know if i will keep this set or return it.Comcast is installing a cablecard next week maybe that will make a difference in the analog channels.Have not hooked up a ota antenna do to line of sight problems with sutro tower in san francisco.Iwill say that the new menu and other features on this set are excellent.Will post updates if i go though with the cablecard install and keep this set.*




Thanks for your informative post. This is what I feared after viewing non-HDTV on the 910. I don't think ANY HDTV set shows a DirecTV satellite image even close to what an excellent non-HDTV tube can display, and I've seen a lot of them.


If I decide to get a HDTV, it will be with the thought that I will resign myself to watching non-HDTV on my 27" Proton in my bedroom, and HDTV only in the living room. But no too practical. Perhaps the only way I can justify it is to get 42" or larger plaza to REALLY get a magnificant view of sporting events in HDTV. Let's face it, you just don't get the visual impact of a HDTV broadcast sporting event on a 34" tube compared to a large plamsa, or even a 50" DLP. Might even consider DLP if limit my viewig to HDTV on the set.


Any hope that the upcoming 4:3 Sony HDTV set may not have the same problem displaying non-HDTV signals (ala the excellent non-HDTV picture of the 40XBR800 (this would actually be the way to go if the TV was reliable!)


Comments?


----------



## gundyrat1




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by bnbhoha_
> *My local Video Only has these for xxx (oops, I just read the rules and cannot post price); you can usually talk them down a $100 or more bucks.
> 
> 
> My question: I have Direct TV Satellite. It's all digital. Will it look good on this TV? I won't invest in a HD Direct Tivo for a few years until the price drops. I really want to get this TV after reading the reviews, but my concerns are picture quality + I am not to familiar with HDTV. and am not sure if this TV is good for my setup.
> 
> 
> Shows that are not broadcasted in widescreen, do they look all right when they are stretched to widescreen and do you have the option not to stretch?
> 
> 
> I guess all TV is suppose to be broadcasted in HD in 2007. So does that mean will have our regular NBC channel for those who do not have cable (analog) and NBC2 for those who have HD/cable? I can't seem to grasp the concept on how they will broadcast the channels. Thanks*



Question 1.


There sending you a digital transmission of an analog signal, on my display is shows NTSC for all non HD Directv NTSC =330 lines

I havn't tried VHS yet at 240 lines but I'm sure it won't look any worse than what it did before.

Laser disc output at 425 lines looks good but needed a little tweeking.

It really depend on what your currently viewing and what your expecting,

I was hoping it was going to be at least as good as the pic on my Sony27"EXR and as it turns out it's about the same some times noise is present but can be ajusted out with manual control of DRC

Question 2.

you can watch anything in 4:3,Full screen ,Widescreen,and Zoom wide,

If its letterboxed on the dish it's still letterboxed on this set like LOTR

HD signals net you Vertical adjust and horizontal adjust.

Question 3.

OTA signals what we have here locally is channels 2,6,8,10,12,49,

currently I do not have a VHF/UHF antenna hooked up I'm picking up signal from the Sat dish cable runs I think?

what I get is Analog for the stations mentioned above.

I have them all bocked so only the digital equivalents show.

Depending upon the show you either get HD or SD.

for channel 6 it becomes 6.1=480i 4:3 6.2 =1080i 16:9

so the guide will say KOIN 6.2HD 1080i 16:9

channel 6 becomes 6.1 SD. for Non Hd material

channel 10 is PBS and currently only offers a 480i.

shows that are 480i can be watching with any of the above mentioned screen formats.

Sorry I can't tell you how Cable does it but I imagine it's most likely the same .1.2.3 channel set up.

So far I am please with this thing.

I think some just expect more miracle's for SD from a 2k plus TV.


----------



## bsd107




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Spiffybiff_
> *For now, I only have one complaint, and price isn't it. The remote is terrible for a universal. I can't skip DVD chapter with the remote. I won't be using the remote much.*



Yes you can - when the lid is open (i.e. the remote is in "DVD" mode) use the Channel +/- buttons - it controls the DVD chapter!


----------



## leatherman

I think the million dollar question is does this set have a problem displaying analog cable/and digital non-HDTV channels? Is this just a problem with Direct TV users? So far everyone is saying it is terrible. Is this because of your cable reception or the the TV? It seems like everyone is saying it is the TV because their old TV doesn't have this problem. Can anyone out there compare this TV to the KV-34XBR910 ? I never heard of this problem with the KV-34XBR910 . Is the KV-34XBR910 a better choice?


----------



## powerdog

What's a reasonable width and depth for a rectangular stand for the 960?


----------



## cad_3




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by JamisonBWolsh_
> *What The??? I called the CC and the warehouse that supplies the 960's to all their stores in southern california does not have ANY. They are empty. I would think los angeles would get them first... I am on the list. I wonder whats up?*



I called CC on Wed night to see if they had it. They said they didn't.







I called back last night, and got a different answer







(At least on Wed they said they had 4 at the warehouse...) On Thurs, they said they had none anywhere. After several more minutes of questions and tracking, they finally said...


"OH!" You're came in yesterday!


MORONS!







No, they aren't that good... More like less-ons... *sigh* This is exactly -why- I didn't want to deal with this store. I should have just driven the 50 miles each way to deal with a store that has a F'ing clue!










Well, I pick my tv up in 11 hours.


My advice, keep calling. I did and got a different answer each time!

-C


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

wouldnt they hold the set if it is on pre-order?


----------



## NorthJersey

pt270, I never saw SD or analog on the 34xbr910, I have the 34hs510, but is the picture mode set to vivid when you're watching tv ? Most sets are changed to this my stores, try changing to Pro mode instead - that's what I use to watch HD, SD and analog from my cable carrier. Any difference ?


As for the question raised of how HD and analog signals of the same channel are shown with cable co's, most like mine put all HD channels at a higher # tier, for example Cablevision in the NJ/NY area puts all HD channels in the 700+ tier. The analog are still in the single to double digit #s. With cablecard access into the new Sony's, it would appear the same way - however your cable co. puts the HD channels.


----------



## TH3_FRB

I believe the factory default is "vivid"...or am I thinking about the Sammy DLP











> Quote:
> _Originally posted by NorthJersey_
> *pt270, I never saw SD or analog on the 34xbr910, I have the 34hs510, but is the picture mode set to vivid when you're watching tv ? Most sets are changed to this my stores, try changing to Pro mode instead - that's what I use to watch HD, SD and analog from my cable carrier. Any difference ?
> 
> 
> As for the question raised of how HD and analog signals of the same channel are shown with cable co's, most like mine put all HD channels at a higher # tier, for example Cablevision in the NJ/NY area puts all HD channels in the 700+ tier. The analog are still in the single to double digit #s. With cablecard access into the new Sony's, it would appear the same way - however your cable co. puts the HD channels.*


----------



## daumier

Here is a pic of the 960 on my ikea stand -- pardon the mess btw


----------



## sgtpeper

hey daumier,

I have monitor audio speakers as well. I have the silver center 12i for a center channel. How did you get the center to stay on top of the TV? I was also thinking of getting that cabinet but building it up a bit and putting the center channel just barely under the tv so its more at ear level.

Thanks

Jeff


----------



## daumier




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by sgtpeper_
> *hey daumier,
> 
> I have monitor audio speakers as well. I have the silver center 12i for a center channel. How did you get the center to stay on top of the TV? I was also thinking of getting that cabinet but building it up a bit and putting the center channel just barely under the tv so its more at ear level.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Jeff*



Great speakers btw! I also have the Monitor FXi hanging on the sides (not in the picture) -- I just wish we have a bigger place so we can crank them up.


Re: the center channel - I just carefully put it up on the edge of the tv. It's actually quite secure (unless there is an earthquake, of course). I do wish I can set it closer to ear level, but it is set at an angle - so at least it's directed at me.


Unfortunately I just don't have enough room to put it someplace else - so this will have to do for the moment.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

Daumer,


where did you get the set? Are in California (earthquake mention)?


----------



## daumier




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by JamisonBWolsh_
> *Daumer,
> 
> 
> where did you get the set? Are in California (earthquake mention)?*



Portland Ore at Video Only. They had a great deal on this set. The only problem is, they do not have a 30 days return policy (just exchange). But that's fine by me b/c I'm not planning to return this tv


----------



## UMDMatt

Nice pic daumier. But what's the deal with that large gray emblem on the lower left side of the set? There wasn't anything that obvious on the front of the 910 was there? Kind of distracting given an otherwise attractive cabinet (at least as attractive as direct view's cabinet can be)


----------



## Rizzle




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by UMDMatt_
> *Nice pic daumier. But what's the deal with that large gray emblem on the lower left side of the set? There wasn't anything that obvious on the front of the 910 was there? Kind of distracting given an otherwise attractive cabinet (at least as attractive as direct view's cabinet can be)*



Its a sticker.


----------



## Acksull

Hey Jamison


I preorderd my 960 from the CC in Fontana. They called me today and will deliver it on Sunday. Your's will probably be in soon too. They get their stock from the wherehouse in City of Industry. That where you called? Btw, thanks for the heads up on the deals earlier in this thread man. I got the ht6600 and the financing.


----------



## cad_3




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by JamisonBWolsh_
> *wouldnt they hold the set if it is on pre-order?*



Yes they will. They are holding mine. Just don't expect them to know where it is!







They "temporariliy lost mine" for a while... less than 2 hours now... and I don't have to deal w/ CC again (ever!) At least this one here...


----------



## cad_3




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by daumier_
> *Here is a pic of the 960 on my ikea stand -- pardon the mess btw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *



Hey thanks! It looks nice on top of that stand. I think I'm going to build my own, but if I wuss out, I'll probably pick up the Ikea stand.


-C

Ps. Great choice in movies







That's the first one I plan to throw in when I get home tonight!


----------



## smirnoffski

This is stand I have prepared for my 960 which will arrive tomorrow morning.












Circuit City has this for only $179.99!! I thought it was a Bell'O when I first saw it with black glass shelves all around. Build quality is excellent, it is easy to assemble and can manage lots of weight.


Here it is on CC's site. (but looks wayyy better in my photo.)

http://www.circuitcity.com/detail.js...&oid=69535&m=0


----------



## TH3_FRB

Can someone please measure the exact depth (front to back) at the maximum. I know the measurements off the Sony site but need to confirm with a real-world measurement.


Thanks-


----------



## pt270

22 inches at the base where it sits on the stand,twenty three and seven eights overall.


----------



## Bari

so daumier how is the TV?


----------



## gundyrat1

I have noticed that some of the artifacts go away when your using it as a monitor via the video inputs

I'm playing around with the DRC custom settings also picked up a disposable HD camera so hopefully i'll have a couple pics soon


----------



## gundyrat1




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by UMDMatt_
> *Nice pic daumier. But what's the deal with that large gray emblem on the lower left side of the set? There wasn't anything that obvious on the front of the 910 was there? Kind of distracting given an otherwise attractive cabinet (at least as attractive as direct view's cabinet can be)*



the emblem refers to the Digital Reality Creation

Not sure if that is a feature on the 910


----------



## bsd107




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by CPanther95_
> *Anybody have a measurement from the base to the beginning of the screen? I have a shelf and I need the picture to clear the top of the footboard.*




Remember that the IR receiver is down there, too!


----------



## bsd107




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by UMDMatt_
> *Nice pic daumier. But what's the deal with that large gray emblem on the lower left side of the set? There wasn't anything that obvious on the front of the 910 was there? Kind of distracting given an otherwise attractive cabinet (at least as attractive as direct view's cabinet can be)*



It's a removable sticker with the "DRC - Digital Cable Ready" logo.


----------



## drvais

Shouldn't that be "DCR?"


----------



## gundyrat1

my scan lines and video noise disappear when I switch it over to video in only.

That pretty much shows the culprit is either the sat box or Video interconnect or RF input/VHF/UHF


----------



## spongebob




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by gundyrat1_
> *my scan lines and video noise disappear when I switch it over to video in only.
> 
> That pretty much shows the culprit is either the sat box or Video interconnect or RF input/VHF/UHF*



Video in or component in?


bob


----------



## snclawson

If anyone's interested (and in Salt Lake), the CC in Fort Union has an XBR960 on display (and I assume for sale, didn't ask how many they had). They're selling it for MSRP though. =( The sales guy that I talked to didn't know squat about it and kept trying to sell me some Samsung DLP rear-projection TV.


Pretty much exactly like an XBR910, except that the onscreen display was much nicer (at least I seem to remember that the XBR910 has the same OSD as the XBR800?).


----------



## gundyrat1




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by spongebob_
> *Video in or component in?
> 
> 
> bob*



Composite Video Monster RCA Video cable

my Cobalt Compoant cables should be here tuesday.

My Sat Rf feed into the RF jack on theTV could also be the problem it's a cheapo push on style thin wire.


----------



## weetoots

GIGO, need good cables.


----------



## raymar99

More about the total depth of this big guy.


Is the patch panel in the back recessed enough or do we need to add an inch or so for the power cord and cables to stick out past the back of the unit?


I am looking to put this guy in a closed back entertainment unit with pocket doors. There is a rectangular cutout but I'm afraid it is not big enough to accommodate the 960.


----------



## smirnoffski

OK. So TV finally came and here are my preliminary impressions:


I will be comparing the 960 with a 4 year 27in Sony tube which it replaces and a 36XBR450 which we have in the family room.

*HDTV.*

Viewing distance at 7 feet with setting on Pro using the integrated tuner.

On my XBR450, I have the Moto 5100 box from Comcast, with which I just pay $5 box rental fee and pick up the following channels (PBS-HD; NBC-HD; ABC-HD; CBS-HD; FOX-HD & ESPN-HD.) On the 960, the integrated tuner picked up all but ESPN and the channel arrangement did not correspond with the 5100 I have on my 450. But the PQ was noticeably better on the 960.

Although the integrated tuner is convenient, it is not very functional when compared to the 5100. When I find the time, I plan to hook up the 5100 to the 960 to see if there are any PQ differences with HD.

*DVD*

Using a 3 year old non-progressive Sony DVP-S560D through S-video, which I had on my previous 27in Sony, the DVD quality was not that great but I expect results to drastically improve when my Denon 2200 is delivered on Tuesday. The DVD quality through S-video was better on my 27in Sony.

*ANALOG*

DO NOT BUY THIS SET FOR ANALOG SIGNALS! They look horrendous, I would stick to a 32in Analog Sony set if I want the best PQ quality on analog. Analog looks much better on my XBR450 than it does on the 960 and better on the 27in. The fine pitch tube only further worsens the degradations associated with analog. But since I plan to use this set for HD and DVD, this is not much of a problem for me.


Kudos to Sony excellent menu interface and they finally listened to consumers and reviewers and included memory inputs for video settings!




By next Wednesday, I will have a Nintendo Gamecube and Denon 2200 DVD player both running through component on my 960, I then plan to post more in depth impressions.


----------



## doretta

Is this what they call a love/hate relationship?:


Thanks to daumier I found a good deal at the nearby Video Only--but he got the last one they had in stock.











I forked out just under 2K and came home with an XBR1 stand, a set of component cables,and a three year extension on the warranty (GE) for a set I don't have yet.


To top it off, I already have another stand I plan to use.


Anyone in the Portland area with a strong back and access to a pickup want to trade use of said back and pickup for an XBR1 stand?


----------



## Charlie Martin

I don't currently have an HD TV but have been anxiously awaiting the 960. I have a Dish Network 811 HD receiver with the HD program package and also local channels package. I also have an OTA antenna and receive digital channels from most of the locals.


My question is regarding the comments about the 960's picture quality on analog signals. Am I receiving all digital signals and therefore do not need to be concerned about the PQ from analog signals?


----------



## spongebob

I'd be very concerned on *anything* but HD and DVD's











bob


----------



## leatherman

Don't understand why the analog signals are so bad. Are the digital non-HDTV signals any better? Also, are the analog signals even watchable ?


----------



## gundyrat1

My OTA tuner found 7 analogs and 7 digitals now I'm not using a Antenna yet so I actually only get 1 Channel clearly 99% of the time and 3 others 50% of the time.

But the one that does come in has the .1and .2 setting plus during the day its SD.

I blocked all the analogs as without the antenna All i got was a fuzzy picture but on the Digital side I received a clear crisp clean signal in Sd,480i and 1080i

Prob going to buy a cheapy set top before investing in a terk 55 or some type of waffle iron for the roof


----------



## doretta

I ordered a 960 because 80% of my TV viewing is DVDs, shows already broadcast in HDTV or sports (which are going to HDTV widescreen at an accelerating rate for obvious reasons).


Even though SD is not my priority, I waited to order until I could see how this TV handled SD in the video store. I'm not willing to buy a set if I find SD is unwatchable on it.


I ran through a number of channels and thought the picture compared reasonably well with the better 4:3 non-HD sets in the store. I noticed some artifacting, but nothing nearly as bad as I get from my analog cable connection now. Tolerance for less than ideal picture quality varies a lot from one person to another. I wouldn't give much weight to anyone else's opinion--you have to see it for yourself, preferably where you can compare this set's SD directly to a good quality SD set.


If I watch a lot of HDTV or progressive scan DVD on an HD set, I figure most SD is going to look pretty bad by comparison no matter how well it is rendered.


----------



## MoneyMINTR

Does anyone have a receipt from Circuit City so that I can get the sales clerk to honor the previous sale price of $2,049 + free stand?


If you do can you email it to me?



Thanks,

MM


----------



## bnbhoha

Took the dive today and bought it. Circuit City sent us a 10%off coupon in the mail for TVs 100 and up (no exclusions). In Seattle, they do not have this TV yet. I noticed my Video ONly had it on display for 2K and had them on order for Wednesday. Circuit City said that I can pre-order for $2199 but they wouldn't pm Video Only for $1999 AND give me 10% off.


I went back to Video ONly and they said they would take Circuit City coupon + free delivery (1799 + Tax); however, they wouldn't take my AMEX card and my other credit card was maxed out (but payment was pending and would have taken a couple of days to post). So I went back to Circuit City and spoke w/ manager and told him that Video Only is willing to take their coupon and that if they they would be kind to give me the same deal. They okayed it but w/o free shipping. So $1853 out the door + on order for 2+ weeks + double the warranty by using my AMEX gold card. THey also have a promotion with comcast. If I buy digital cable through them, Comcast will give me $100 rebate; this is for all customers regardless if they bought a TV or not. Now how do I get a free stand










Good luck to all.



p.s. employee said that they get things at cost and that his price was $1753. I am more than sure that it's not true cost, it's probably cost +10%, but they say they get everything at cost though.


p.p.s CC told be that there was a $200 rebate on the HTIB. After going through the posts here and reading the rebate link posted, it appears that there is a $400 rebate. I'll trying going back tomorrow and ask them if I could still put everything on one receipt.


----------



## MoneyMINTR

bnbhoha,


Do you have a scan of the receipt or coupon so that I can try and get the same deal here?



Thanks,

MM


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

CC has a 30 day return policy.... if they refuse, Just return it and get the same deal again (and this time put the 6600dp on the same receipt)


----------



## gundyrat1

wonder if an inline DC block would cure the scan lines on SD with Audio

i'm also going to get a Terminator for the unused Rf input


----------



## TH3_FRB

Congrats on the good deal. FYI - Amex doesn't double the factory warranty, it extends it for up to one year. Since the XBR sets come with a 2-year factory warranty Amex will give you an additional year.



> Quote:
> _Originally posted by bnbhoha_
> *So $1853 out the door + on order for 2+ weeks + double the warranty by using my AMEX gold card.*


----------



## ghostrider1

I would love to see a picture of the back of the 960. I would like to see if it will fit in my current TV stand.


Thanks!!!


----------



## Segaboy

gundyrat1,


Which terminator are you going to use on the unused RF input?


I was thinking about the same thing, but have not done much research yet.


Were you going to use it on the Terrestial Antenna input or the Cable TV input. I will be using CableCard, so the antenna input is what I need to 'cap-off'.


----------



## spongebob




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by leatherman_
> *Don't understand why the analog signals are so bad. Are the digital non-HDTV signals any better? Also, are the analog signals even watchable ?*



2 questions on this:


-Has anyone played with the DRC settings in analog/sd?


-Has anyone confirmed crappy picture using built in HD tuner? I only saw analog/sd with component in from a DTV receiver using an OTA antenna patched through it.


bob


----------



## strandbiker1

What is HTIB, regarding a rebate? I wentot my local dealer and watched a 910. IT looks like the analog signals go through the digital circuitry and then you get it on the screen. I would bet that is what you are seeing on the 960 also. Is it any better with a DTV input signal, versus analog OTA?


S


----------



## EpiphanyX

What is the deal with the ANTI REFLECTIVE COATING?


Here's a product page for the KV34XBR910:


[can't post url yet cuz i'm a noob - coming soon]


notice the first bullet point under features:


*A/R Anti Reflective Coating


which is listed _ahead_ of that other thing that made this set so awesome - the Superfine Pitch CRT


So I'm a bit concerned because none of the information we've seen on the KD34XBR960 so far indicates that there is and Anti Reflective Coating. Do any of the new owners know what the deal is?


----------



## Phantastica

It looks like there's an anti-reflective coating to me.


----------



## RJB in Phila

Just a couple of notes on the 34XBR960 that I have only played around with for a few hours:


As has been mentioned, the default setting under the Video/Mode menu is "Vivid" which is pretty horrible, even with DVD's. I used "Pro" but Standard looked better with SD TV, I think. However, as I think someone recommended, the brightness setting with Pro needs to be turned up.


I changed the color temperature to Neutral which also looked better. Under Color Axis, I changed it to "monitor" in order to reduce the red push.


I have not figured out the ClearEdge and DRC Palette yet. I didn't notice any differences with these features.


Analog TV looked pretty bad at first, but when changing the Video Mode to Pro or Standard, it looked better. Also, I turned down the sharpness which also helped but this lower level of sharpness didn't look as impressive with HDTV.


HDTV looked unbelievable. Even my wife, who thought this was all a waste of time and money, was quite impressed. We watched a program about Rome tonight on PBS and it was amazing. DVD's also looked great.


The top of the TV has enough space for my Ascend center speaker which weighs 26 pounds and is 7.5" x 21" x 10.5". If I had young kids, I would probably want to secure it better, but it seems fine for now.


So far, I am very happy with the purchase. The size is perfect for my 13x16 foot room which is dedicated to home theater since my viewing distance is only 7 feet or so.


----------



## EpiphanyX

so it's something you can actually see?


----------



## EpiphanyX

So I guess I need to have three posts before I can post urls.


----------



## EpiphanyX

 http://www.dynaco.com/Merchant2/merc...ry_Code=TVto40 


yeah... so there you go. Odd that it would be something Sony would touting as an important feature for the 910 and then no mention of it at all for the 960


----------



## weetoots

*Anti-Reflective coating*.

From what I can find on Sony's website and in the "960" manual it is not referred to as such. I think that Sony may consider that phrase "out-dated" or already implied. Like here: "Sony's FD Trinitron picture tube is set apart by outstanding clarity and detail, pinpoint corner-to-corner focusing, minimal glare and accurate image reproduction. These come from Sony's Fine Pitch Aperture Grille, a High Focus Electron Gun, a Flat Glass Panel and Sony's High-Precision Deflection Yoke."

This was from their website. Here. 

In the manual it is refered to as follows:

"Presenting the Trinitron WEGA"

"The FD Trinitron Wega is characterized by outstanding contrast, uncompromising accuracy, and corner to corner detail.

You will recognize the superiority of Wega technology almost immediately. The first thing you will notice is minimal glare from the flat picture screen." The flat-screen technology improves picture detail without distortion.....so you can enjoy a bright, clear picture from any location in a room."

This was taken from page 9 of the KD34XBR960 manual.


What I believe Sony is saying (IMHO), is that their technology implies anti-reflective is used on their flat screen tubes.


----------



## gundyrat1




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Segaboy_
> *gundyrat1,
> 
> 
> Which terminator are you going to use on the unused RF input?
> 
> 
> I was thinking about the same thing, but have not done much research yet.
> 
> 
> Were you going to use it on the Terrestial Antenna input or the Cable TV input. I will be using CableCard, so the antenna input is what I need to 'cap-off'.*



A 75ohm coax "F" type terminator and i'll put it on the cable Side.


I received my Cobalt Componant cables today Naturally I didn't order the right size on the short run from the DVD player to my VSX-49TX,

took a little bit before I figured out why I had sound but no picture.


I also replaced that thin push-on type cheapo RF cable for an RG6.

Well I now have no OTA channels I guess that cheapo wire was radiating like an Antenna.

So now with the SAT( Non HD) on going just thru the RF I do not have the half cocked horizontal scan lines anymore and the Noise in the picture is also gone.

Running through the HT Receiver now on the 960's Video input 5 all others are skipped everything now runs to the TV via the Componant cable.

The DVD player really didin't improve much. Cannot decide which is better Auto progressive or just full on progressive on the DVD player menu.

The VHS looks remarkably better and the Laser disc player Is now at the WOW level.


The sat dish however is watchable it just isn't that impressive its only 9yrs old maybe I need to move up to a HD model.

Not sure what direction to go though Stay the Course and plunk down another 799 like my current model was Priced 9yrs ago or Try Voom or the Dishnet

What ever I get I must have an RF capable remote!

and then put an Antenna Farm on the roof for the local stuff that will get dropped from Directv shortly.


As for the question asked about Analog vers Digital OTA reception If you can get everything Digital block all the Analogs everything looks better on the Digital side SD 480i HD 480P and 1080i


----------



## Trojanlaw

I was in a panic after reading the posts regarding SD to take delivery of my new 960 today. I bought it through the Sony employee program which does not allow returns. I do a majority of my watching of SD content. Therefore, I was horified that the picture would be terrible. Have no fear, the Directv channels look great after you play with the DRC settings. I have HiDef Tivo. Initially the picture wasn't great. Then I outputued all of the SD stuff via 480i and let the 960 DRC take over and the picture is amazing. Far better detail than my previous XBR analog set that I have had for the past 10 years. The wide zoom mode even looks great. Just make sure that you have the satellite receiver set to 16:9 first and you should be very happy. The folks that have concerns must not have a good Directv signal.


The HiDef and DVD's are beyond description. The antiglare screen is a joy and does not take away from the screen brightness or contrast at all. This is the best picture that I have seen and am very happy all the way around.


Don't worry if you have Directv. Any other source, I could not say as I know that cable signals are not as good as a whole.


----------



## igreg

Thanks for the post Trojanlaw. I like so many others have seen terrible non-HDTV images on this set; however, I have been waiting for someone to test this set with the best Non-HDTV signal available, DirecTV. Could you explian a liitle about what you did to get the great image from DirecTV? When you say outputed all the SD stuff via 480i, what does this mean? I would assume that you would connect the DirecTV set top box to the XBR960 and set the DirecTV box to 480i, is their any other option for non-HDTV? Was the DRC adjustmetns critical? Thanks.


----------



## igreg

Thanks for the post Trojanlaw. I like so many others have seen terrible non-HDTV images on this set; however, I have been waiting for someone to test this set with the best Non-HDTV signal available, DirecTV. Could you explian a liitle about what you did to get the great image from DirecTV? When you say outputed all the SD stuff via 480i, what does this mean? I would assume that you would connect the DirecTV set top box to the XBR960 and set the DirecTV box to 480i, is their any other option for non-HDTV? Was the DRC adjustmetns critical? Thanks.


----------



## powerdog

Trojanlaw or RJB: Comments on DVDs, especially compared to DVDs on the 910??


----------



## Trojanlaw




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by powerdog_
> *Trojanlaw or RJB: Comments on DVDs, especially compared to DVDs on the 910??*



The 960 is a bit smoother and has much more pop on the screen if you want it. The picture literally jumps at you if you set it right.


With regard to Directv, I must modify my post above. First, the picture does require alot of playing around with through the picture mode and drc. After that, the PQ depends a lot on the quality of the channel. I had only watched about four SD channels before posting above. There are many other channels, however, that are not as good. They can still look very good from four feet away, however, you can see artifacts and edges if you are within four feet. The picture on an analog set will be much smoother for these SD channels, however, I have found that even without the smoothness, the 960 makes these channels much more 3D and much more vibrant. The adjustments to Picture Mode and DRC are essential for the bad channels to look good, but it can be done. I have not found a single channel that is "Unwatchable" as many have posted. It is important to note that I have not found any additional distortion going with the Wide Zoom mode. Accordingly, you can watch everything ion wide screen with a good picture for the SD stuff.


In short, if you have a strong Directv signal, don't panic about the SD channels. The 960 can handle them. Its all subjective though.


There should be no dispute that this is the best picture your money can buy with regard to HD content or DVD playback. It is amazing.


----------



## RJB in Phila




> Quote:
> Trojanlaw or RJB: Comments on DVDs, especially compared to DVDs on the 910??



At first, I was disappointed in the picture quality of DVDs since the picture was set to "Vivid". However, once I changed to Pro or Standard and increased the brightness, it looked great. I am very satisfied with the picture quality of DVDs. Of course, the picture quality is not as amazing as that of HDTV, which now makes me want to either get one of the new upscaling DVD players or hope for an early coming of HD DVD. I am currently using a several year old progressive scan DVD player. Turning off the progressive scan results in a noticeable decrease in picture quality, especially the color intensity, so I would definitely recommend someone go with at least a progressive scan player.


Sorry, I can't compare the 960 to the 910 since I never saw the 910 playing DVDs.


----------



## NTN1

With regard to comments on poor SD pictures due to "weak" DirecTV signal, and purportedly better picture with "strong" DirecTV signal, please be advised that DirecTV is digital. It's either you have it perfect, or you don't. A true weak signal will result in frequent dropouts, freezes, or just a blank screen. But that has nothing to do with picture quality that people are complaining about.


For those that wonder about the picture quality differences between 910 and 960, as though you are trying to make to new-purchase decision, please just remember that people will make subjective comments, baseless for the most part. You'll need the two TVs side by side, under the same lighting condition, calibrated to the same standards, and showing the same video program. I doubt any poster here would have that setup before commenting.


If you are in a market for a new 34" tube HDTV, then get the 960. It is a better value-added TV compared to the 910. Picture quality should be at least as good as the 910, although at this point, I am still extremely skeptical about claims that the 960 somehow looks better without more data on the test setup and evaluation methodology.


----------



## EpiphanyX

Anyone on the East coast get the 960 yet?


----------



## TH3_FRB

This may be true but the specific DirectTV tuner/dish you use has a significant impact on PQ. I just bought my dad a new DirectTivo to replace one of the standard tuners he had and the PQ improved dramatically (on a standard 4:3 analog 32" set) with the new gear...for some reason the Tivo required a new dish too so this migh have been part of it. Bottom line is that digital may be digital, but the equipment that gets it from the air to your screen makes a significant difference.



> Quote:
> _Originally posted by NTN1_
> *With regard to comments on poor SD pictures due to "weak" DirecTV signal, and purportedly better picture with "strong" DirecTV signal, please be advised that DirecTV is digital. It's either you have it perfect, or you don't. A true weak signal will result in frequent dropouts, freezes, or just a blank screen. But that has nothing to do with picture quality that people are complaining about.
> 
> *


----------



## RJB in Phila




> Quote:
> Anyone on the East coast get the 960 yet?



I had mine delivered last Saturday and others have gotten it as well. I don't know if they're in the stores yet, however.


----------



## ghostrider1

I asked for a picture of the back of the 960, but now all I want is a description. I know the documentation say the back is 25 inches in length, but I wanted to know what percentage of the back is the little tube.


This is a view from the top( I know I can't draw)


Front Back

|====|

| XXX ||||


----------



## TH3_FRB

Mine is in the local freight terminal











> Quote:
> _Originally posted by RJB in Phila_
> *I had mine delivered last Saturday and others have gotten it as well. I don't know if they're in the stores yet, however.*


----------



## hardwired

How many tuners and of which type does the xbr960 have?


Can I for instance use an OTA antenna on one RF input to tune in ATSC and NTSC channels, and have the 2nd RF input connected to cableTV and tune QAM channels that the Cable Co's STB would normally tune?


How does the Cable card interact with the tuner(s)?


----------



## michaelggray

There is one on display at CC in Princeton, NJ. And it is on Sale at CC till Sat. 7-17. I had them look in inventory and there was something like 27 in the warehouse ready to be shipped to the stores on Thur.


----------



## RJB in Phila




> Quote:
> I asked for a picture of the back of the 960, but now all I want is a description. I know the documentation say the back is 25 inches in length, but I wanted to know what percentage of the back is the little tube.



The tube tapers back but not as much as I would have thought. The height in the back is still 22.5" and the width is 20" at it's minimum. The lower half of the back is inset slightly so the cords can fit easily underneath, but the inset is only about 2"


----------



## strandbiker1

IF YOU ADJUST THE 960 FROM VIVID TO "PRO" OR STANDARD, WILL THAT WORK FOR BOTH HDTV AND SD DISPLAYS?


s


----------



## RJB in Phila




> Quote:
> IF YOU ADJUST THE 960 FROM VIVID TO "PRO" OR STANDARD, WILL THAT WORK FOR BOTH HDTV AND SD DISPLAYS?



Yes. One limitation is that it will only remember one setting for all TV viewing, whether it is HDTV or SD, so you have to adjust through the menus if you want to use say Standard for HDTV and Pro for SD. At least this is the way it is with my cable set-up.


----------



## EpiphanyX

Just got mine. 1694.00 + tax










[Edit] I should mention that I know the guy who owns the store I bought from very well. That being said, to all of you PM'ing me, I'll ask him if I can give out his company's name and if his normal price is at or around what I got it for and get back to you. He's in MA though if that helps anyone.


[Edit part deux] OK, here's the deal: I'm going to call my guy tomorrow and ask 1) what his price is for the average joe off the street and 2) if I can give out his name on the interweb thing. I don't want to piss him off by telling you all you can get the set for the same price I did. So tomorrow some time I'll return PM's with info.


[Edit: editing with a vengence] Just talked to my friend and he said, "Yeah, that's way below our normal retail." So sorry guys, you wouldn't be able to get my price. To those who PM'd me, I'll tell you the store because it is independently owned and you might get them to price match.


----------



## Phantastica

I haven't spent too much time with mine yet, but I've got one question. Shouldn't it automatically switch the scaling mode for Full when it starts receiving HD content?


I prefer watching SD in the regular 4:3 mode, but it's a bit annoying having to switch over to Full mode each time I hit a 16:9 HD feed. The HD feed is from my Comcast cable box BTW.


I managed to get my HTPC running through the HDMI input at 1280x720 and the HD movies that I've been watching really look spectacular. It definitely helps to set that colour option to monitor to eliminate the red push.


----------



## Trojanlaw




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Phantastica_
> *I haven't spent too much time with mine yet, but I've got one question. Shouldn't it automatically switch the scaling mode for Full when it starts receiving HD content?*



Yes, you need to set your advanced video settings as to how you want the TV to respond to 4:3 content and make sure the memory is on. Then set it to what you want for 16:9 and it should automatically change for you.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

I just Recieved the 960!!! It truly is a great set!


Question:


Is it ok to watch SD in 4:3 ? I heard you can get burn in if you watch too much of this??? I have been watching wide Zoom for the sd material...


----------



## pt270

No go on my cablecard install today by comcast on my 960.After about an hour of trying could not get it to download anything.It showed that card was installed but would not show any channels when searching.Hopefully they will find out what the problem is soon as this is one of the main reasons for me buying the xbr960.Any one else have problems with this feature not working on their 960.


----------



## absolutezerok

Hey Phantastica

Do tell more, I am very intereste in this set. I have just read almost the entire post and I swear your is the first hdmi mention. I currentl have a denon 5900 with the DVI. Unfortunately it's hooked up via component since my current hd doesn't have dvi/hdmi. Oh BTW what player are you using?


----------



## bada

I just read this entire post in one sitting, quite the read. Too bad this set wont be available in Canada, I live in Montreal, and wont even have the opportunity to view it, let alone buy it. That is unless of course I dont mind crossing the border and coming back with an expensive item that has no warranty for me. Which imho would be foolish.


I know the xs955 has fewer goodies, but I wonder it it's the same CRT as the 910 and 960...


For all I know, I might settle for an hs model since Im buying a z2 projector aswell, and the extra $1000 would be a welcome savings.


From what I have read, with the correct settings, the 960 DOES display a decent DirectTV image, I wonder how the hs models fare here.


Decisions decisions....


----------



## cpschmidt2




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by pt270_
> *No go on my cablecard install today by comcast on my 960.After about an hour of trying could not get it to download anything.It showed that card was installed but would not show any channels when searching.Hopefully they will find out what the problem is soon as this is one of the main reasons for me buying the xbr960.Any one else have problems with this feature not working on their 960.*



I'll find out Friday if I have similar problems. But here's something interesting: I already get a number of digital and HD channels without the Cable card installed just by connecting the cable from the wall to the Cable RF input of the TV. The HD channels I'm getting are ESPN-HD, INHD, and INHD2. I have basic, not digital, Comcast service in Tuscaloosa.


----------



## spider4re




> Quote:
> The HD channels I'm getting are ESPN-HD, INHD, and INHD2. I have basic, not digital, Comcast service in Tuscaloosa.



are you getting abc, cbs, nbc etc.?


----------



## snclawson

You should get all HD (ok, DTV really, which includes SD) channels that your cable company is supplying unscrambled. I believe that the only channels that are required to be provided unscrambled are the HD locals, so enjoy it while it lasts!


In my area, when I hooked up a QAM reciever I only got the local channels in HD, along with the Style channel, the Golf Channel, an ESPN promo channel, We, the Weather Channel and a munch of digital music channels.


----------



## spider4re

I just got a few new prices if anyones interested:

http://www.geocities.com/kd34xbr960/...br960page.html 


If you would like to add your best deal to the page please email me with the price for the

1) tv

2) warranty

3) and the location (also include any extras; stand etc)


thanks


----------



## cpschmidt2




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by spider4re_
> *are you getting abc, cbs, nbc etc.?*



Unfortunately, COMCAST is not offering any network HD feeds yet. I talked to a CC employee this morning who talked to a COMCAST tech who said they are in the process of installing a tower between Tuscaloosa and Birmingham that will allow them to offer the Birmingham HD channels in Tuscaloosa.


----------



## TH3_FRB

Can someone please measure the dimensions of the box the 960 comes in...I need to plan transportation of this thing.


Thanks-


Joel


----------



## Phantastica




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by absolutezerok_
> *Hey Phantastica
> 
> Do tell more, I am very intereste in this set. I have just read almost the entire post and I swear your is the first hdmi mention. I currentl have a denon 5900 with the DVI. Unfortunately it's hooked up via component since my current hd doesn't have dvi/hdmi. Oh BTW what player are you using?*



Well, I called and asked Comcast if the DVI port was enabled on the HD Box and the guy asked his manager and came back saying "No, it's definitely not". But I figured I'd give it a shot anyways and to my (partial) surprise it actually worked. So right now I'm running the HD Cable Box (Motorola 6200 I believe, with firmware 7.10) to the set through a DVI->HDMI cable and the picture is absolutely incredible. I'm receiving all of the local broadcasts, as well as ESPNHD, INHD 1 & 2, and HBOHD. Everything looks really great through the DVI cable and there were no apparent handshaking issues with connecting it. I didn't do an A/B comparison with the component input, but it obviously doesn't look worse.


I use a HTPC for DVD/HD playback and I was initially connecting it to the set through a DVI->HDMI cable. The HDMI input seemed to be very picky about the resolutions that it was receiving. However, it's hard to say whether or not that was with my Radeon 9800 or the set. 1280x720p with DVI/HDCP timings in powerstrip worked though, but there was a bit of overscan. I ended up using ATI's Component Adapter and that instantly let me feed a whole lot more resolutions/timings to the set.


I'll probably keep it like this for now, as the component output from the PC looks great, as does the DVI->HDMI output from the cable box.


Right now I'm using a Monster DVI->HDMI cable, but that is going to be returned once my DVI->HDMI cable comes in from Pacific Cable (should be tomorrow). You could say that at $120, the Monster cable is a "tad" overpriced!


My next step is going to be trying to record HD to my PC through the firewire port from the Comcast box. I'm already playing back 720p and 1080i TS files from my computer to the set and they also look pretty incredible. The XBR960 is doing a good job of switching display modes based on the resolutions that it's receiving. Games at 1700x1080i are also looking very nice. This set is performing far beyond my expectations, which may have been kind of low considering I was coming from a 20inch Toshiba.


One question, is it possible to skip the inputs that don't have anything connected to them when switching inputs with the TV/VIDEO button?


----------



## bnbhoha

Thanks, I looked up pacific digital cable
http://www.pacificcable.com/DVI.htm 

They're only 10 min away from where I live and have great prices.


My TV is still on order: question- DVI to HDMI is it a male to male cable? & Do I need a dual link or single link?


----------



## sgtpeper

DVI HDMI


Just a noob question but what are these? Do these just do video or do they do audio as well? Because I want my cable to run through the stereo as and I dont think my reciever (pioneer elite 45tx) has those connections? COuld just be my noob-ness







.

Please explain!

Thanks

Jeff


----------



## snclawson

AFAIK, no reciever yet has DVI/HDMI inputs (ok, maybe there are some in the 'ridiculous' price range, but those for us mere mortals only seem to come with 2 component inputs max). You can get DVI switchers, but they're also somewhat expensive (couple hundred $$ or more). (Oh, very nice reciver BTW. I ended up geting a VSX-35TX when my old VSX-95 Elite got a hum in it's pre-amp and I decided it was time to move into the digital age...maybe someday I'll fix it.).


As for the actual cables/systems:


DVI: does only video, both digital and analog.

HDMI: only digital (backwards compatible with DVI), but will also do digital sound.


Of course, to get sound + video out of HDMI, both ends have to be HDMI.


So just hook up the DVI-HDMI cable to your TV and the sound up to your reciever. If you did happen to get an HDMI based box likely it will have separate audio outputs (so as to be able to work with older DVI-only TVs), so you could just hook those straight to your reciever. However, the the XBR960 should also send the audio from the HDMI signal out it's optical digital output on the back. At least that's what I'm assuming it will do and isn't only there to get the digital audio signal from the HD Tuner out of the TV.


----------



## Sizam




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Phantastica_
> *I use a HTPC for DVD/HD playback and I was initially connecting it to the set through a DVI->HDMI cable. The HDMI input seemed to be very picky about the resolutions that it was receiving. However, it's hard to say whether or not that was with my Radeon 9800 or the set. 1280x720p with DVI/HDCP timings in powerstrip worked though, but there was a bit of overscan. I ended up using ATI's Component Adapter and that instantly let me feed a whole lot more resolutions/timings to the set.
> 
> 
> I'll probably keep it like this for now, as the component output from the PC looks great, as does the DVI->HDMI output from the cable box.
> *



OMG please tell me what timings or how you got the 960 setup with your 9800! Did it work better with the DVI cable or with the Component dongle, could you tell me your timings to? Thank you thank you thank you if you do. I'm planning on getting a 9800 Pro and would like to plug it into the 960 (mmmm widescreen World of Warcraft...).


Thanks!


----------



## Phantastica

 http://www.pacificcable.com/Picture_...me=HDMIDVI%2D2 


This is the cable that I ordered. It looks a lot like the Monster cable that I'm using now, so it should work the same. I don't think single-link/dual-link is an issue with these.


I would assume that the 960 will accept audio through the HDMI input too, but it's nice that they put analogue inputs for that input too.


Sizam, if you're going to be using the 9800 then I would recommend using the component adapter from ATI. It's pretty inexpensive if you order it from NewEgg. Setup with this is much easier and you can tell that ATI's drivers are tailored towards this type of setup.


The Sony monitor is actually read through the DVI input properly and the computer/powerstrip can read that it's a "Sony Monitor". It also carries over it's Max Resolution/Refresh settings. I bet if I played with it a bit more I could find some resolutions within 720p/1080i timings that work, but like I said, 1280x720p gave a lot of overscan. There are plenty of readily available resolutions/timings that work with the component adapter. ( http://www.htpcnews.com/main.php?id=hdtvgaming )


It has been my experience so far though, that these timings will not work through the DVI->HDMI connection. You'll have to "roll your own", which I was I just decided to go with the component adapter just to get things up and running for now.


----------



## bnbhoha

Question about cable card. I'm getting conflicting info from Comcast.


Called Comcast today and inquired about the cable card and cost etc. First person didn't know much and said I was the first person to call him about that. He told me I need a HD box even if I had the card. I asked him to verify and he put me on hold and came back and said no. He came back and said he stands corrected; the card works like the box and I did not need the box then brushed me off.


I called back the second time because I had a few questions about Comast cable package. THis time I spoke to a friendly person who was willing to answer my questions. I asked about HD DVRs and various packages. I also talked about the cable card. She wasn't too familiar w/ it either and had to ask a supervisor. She said that the cable card allows me to watch digital channels w/o a box; however, if I wanted HDTV I would still need a HD box and because I had a HD box it would also do digital channels so I would not need the cable card.


1. So I'm getting conflicting info here. Does any one know if the cable card does HDTV or do I need to rent a cable box? It was my understanding that the XBR960 had a builit in HDTV decoder and that the card would do HDTV w/o box. FYI: comcast said the cards will be free and no monthly charge, but if don't return it- there would be a charge of $115.


2. If the card works w/o HD box, in a few months when Comcast starts renting out the HD DVRS, we won't need the card right since the DVR will have everthing in it.


3. Does anyone know if the DVR will have two receivers built in like DTivo (I though I heard something about it).


----------



## Joxer

The cable card should allow for any regular digital and HD channels including premiums, just not 2way communication for video-on-demand or PPV ordering. The cable reps are clueless about the new technology, so you can't use them for a source for such information. The HD-DVR replaces the HD/digital cable box, so yes you won't need a tuner or cable card with that. The HD-DVR should have 2 tuners and allow for recording 2 shows at the same time, while watching a 3rd recorded program or other combinations.


----------



## Sizam

Phantastica, that link doesn't list any powerstrip timings just all the resolutions different games run at, I'm interested in the exact resolutions/refresh timings I need to give powerstrip to make my xbr960 happy, what are you running at?


Also, he said HD-TiVo which is a troll for me to say how friggin sweet it is


----------



## Phantastica

If you install the Catalyst 4.7 drivers then you'll get access to a bunch of different timings that work nicely. Just open up the display options under the ATI Control Panel once you have the tv hooked up and you'll see a bunch of checkboxes with different custom resolutions provided by ATI. They all seem to work pretty well with the 960.


Otherwise, if you install the latest version of Powerstrip, it should have a bunch of predefined resolutions for the ATI component adapter. Pretty much anything I've thrown at it has worked.


It was really very easy to setup. The latest drivers seem to have made it a pretty painless process.


But before this becomes and ATI thread, has anyone tried hooking up their cable box through the Firewire port? Does this port actually support HD Video and Audio streams? It certainly has the bandwidth to. I may give it a try tonight.


----------



## MoneyMINTR

Has anyone ever ordered from shopsunshine.com in Brooklyn, NY? They have a great price and are available for local pickup. They state that they're authorized sony dealers.


----------



## powerdog

Money,

Check epinons and resellerratings, and you'll see why you should avoid Sunshine. I'd bet they're not authorized either...lots of e-commerce sites make false claims about this.


----------



## MoneyMINTR

I did, I checked resellerratings.com and they have an average of 8.92 lifetime rating. I'm going to minimize risk by picking it up locally and inspecting the tv set.


----------



## beacher




> _Originally posted by bada_
> *I just read this entire post in one sitting, quite the read. Too bad this set wont be available in Canada, I live in Montreal, and wont even have the opportunity to view it, let alone buy it. That is unless of course I dont mind crossing the border and coming back with an expensive item that has no warranty for me. Which imho would be foolish.
> 
> 
> I know the xs955 has fewer goodies, but I wonder it it's the same CRT as the 910 and 960...
> 
> 
> For all I know, I might settle for an hs model since Im buying a z2 projector aswell, and the extra $1000 would be a welcome savings.
> 
> 
> From what I have read, with the correct settings, the 960 DOES display a decent DirectTV image, I wonder how the hs models fare here.
> 
> 
> Decisions decisions....*
> 
> 
> According to Sony Canada, the xbr960 and the xs955 have the same tube and the same picture quality if the input signal quality is good. The xbr960 has better noise handling and better drc. They now say the 955 should show up in Canada by September and that the 960 is not coming to Canada because of a lack of dealer interest.


----------



## TCB

I just read up on Shopsunshinedotcom. Whoa, what a bunch of scam artists. I wouldn't buy a stick of gum from those people. They'd probably advertise it as new but it would be ABC gum.


----------



## Phantastica

I hooked up a Motorola 6200 box to the XBR960 via a single firewire cable and sure enough I was receiving HD Video and Audio all through the cable. It looked pretty great! The only downside is that the onscreen guide doesn't get transmitted. The nice thing is that it only takes one cable!


----------



## TH3_FRB

So tell me where you read up on them. I had great service...even when I called back 3 months post-sale to request a copy of my bill of sale...was in my email withing 10 min. No complaints here and they are indeed an authorized Sony dealer. I'd like to know what bad you've heard.



> Quote:
> _Originally posted by TCB_
> *I just read up on Shopsunshinedotcom. Whoa, what a bunch of scam artists. I wouldn't buy a stick of gum from those people. They'd probably advertise it as new but it would be ABC gum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


----------



## TH3_FRB

Yes, as I've posted before, I bought my 40XBR800 from them last year and had great service, quick shipping and everything was on the up and up. Sony had no problem dealing with my warranty claim and ShopSunshine was very helpful when i contacted them for help.


Joel



> Quote:
> _Originally posted by MoneyMINTR_
> *Has anyone ever ordered from shopsunshine.com in Brooklyn, NY? They have a great price and are available for local pickup. They state that they're authorized sony dealers.*


----------



## MoneyMINTR

TH3_FRB,


That's reassuring. I'm going to make a pickup this Saturday if the weather permits. How big is the TV? Do I need a pickup truck? I have a 1990 Toyota 4Runner.


Also, how do you know that they're Sony authorized?


Thanks,

MM


----------



## TH3_FRB

How big is the 960? I don't know...mine arrives tomorrow. The 40XBR800 was HUGE...came strapped to a pallet!


The only way I "know" they are Sony authorized (besides them saying so) is because II got the green blob disease and filed a warranty claim. Sony never questioned the retailer on the bill of sale I had to provide to prove my purchase. I'd think the claims department would have at least tried to deny the claim if the place I bought it from wasn't authorized. You can always call Sony customer service and ask for yourself.


----------



## TCB

I started browsing through user comments left on epinions. Not just one or two or three...pages of them. Not to say that everyone who uses them has a bad experience, but it seems to be a definite coin toss. I also doubt very strongly that they are authorized Sony dealers. It is easy to make that claim on your internet site, but the reality may be different. I am glad you had a good experience with them, however. But for others contemplating a purchase from Shopsunshinedotcom, I'd read some of the long testimonials about what it was like dealing with this company. Check out epinionsdotcom.



> Quote:
> _Originally posted by TH3_FRB_
> *So tell me where you read up on them. I had great service...even when I called back 3 months post-sale to request a copy of my bill of sale...was in my email withing 10 min. No complaints here and they are indeed an authorized Sony dealer. I'd like to know what bad you've heard.*


----------



## TH3_FRB

One last thought on ShopSunshine.com - they have over 8000 sales on eBay with a 97.8% positive feedback rating. Be careful about sites like epinions.com...most people go there to complain about poor service not rave about good service. How often do you take the time to specifically hit a site like that to praise something? But when you get screwed you try whatever you can to let people know. I think the eBay rating system is much more balanced and fair...feedback is left on virtually every transaction. If they aren't authorized then the two individual repair shops that made service visits to my house and the regional service rep, and the corporate claims rep that processed my warranty exchange all screwed up big. The choice is yours...just think logically and make the best decision for you.


----------



## gundyrat1

If you register it after you get it up and runing you should never have any problem getting it Authorized for Service


----------



## foxfan




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by beacher_
> *
> 
> According to Sony Canada, the xbr960 and the xs955 have the same tube and the same picture quality if the input signal quality is good. The xbr960 has better noise handling and better drc. They now say the 955 should show up in Canada by September and that the 960 is not coming to Canada because of a lack of dealer interest.*



Here is the MOST IMPORTANT difference between the XBR and the XS. The XBR has Firewire, the XS doesn't. What's the point of having an integrated tuner if you can't record anything from it? An integrated HD receiver with firewire is the most required item here since the Canadian cable companies don't have firewire on their receivers. When cablecards will be activated, only the xbr960 owners will be able to record HD. This feature is the ultimate reason to buy in the United States of America.


----------



## TH3_FRB

Are you suggesting that it doesn't make a difference where you buy as long as you register it? I wouldn't take any chances myself. Why would SOny essentially eat a $2500 television if they don't have to? If they cam back and said "sorry, but it was not purchased through an authorized dealer, we can't offer any warranty support" I can't imagine I'd have much ground to stand on. Anyway, when in doubt, call Sony and ask.



> Quote:
> _Originally posted by gundyrat1_
> *If you register it after you get it up and runing you should never have any problem getting it Authorized for Service*


----------



## NorthJersey




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Phantastica_
> *One question, is it possible to skip the inputs that don't have anything connected to them when switching inputs with the TV/VIDEO button?*



in the menu options where you can label the input, ie DVD, cable, game,etc choose SKIP so that when you press the Input button on the remote it'll skip that input. At least that's how it worked on previous generation Sony's


----------



## doretta

Absolutely do not believe anything technical a Comcast employee tells you about cablecards and what they do. At this point it is more likely to be wrong than right.


A cable box does two things for you, it provides a tuner and a programmable descrambler. If it's an analog cable box it tunes analog signals, if it's a digital cable box it handles analog and digital signals, if it's an HD cable box, it adds HD to the other two.


The tuner in the XBR960 is like the tuner in an HD cable box. Even without a cablecard, it will allow your set to display all channels, HD or otherwise, that are not scrambled by Comcast. I don't get my cablecard for another week but I've been watching the local network HD channels carried by Comcast and a few others: NBC, OPB, ABC etc. because at this point those channels are not scrambled.


The cablecard does the other thing that a cable box does. Properly programmed by Comcast, the cablecard will unscramble all the scrambled channels your particlular cable subscription allows you to see.


----------



## andrewjnyc

Can anyone recommend a reliable NYC dealer offering the 960? J&R, where I usually purchase such big ticket items, don't have it listed on their website (nor does Circuit City, though some people in this thread have mentioned ordering 960s from CC). I'm not in a hurry to buy one, but I'd like to do so by the end of August.


----------



## Phantastica

Here are some photos with everything in place. They're a little grainy. Any strange patterns you see on the screen aren't apparent without a camera.


----------



## Phantastica

Number 2


----------



## Phantastica

Number 3


----------



## Phantastica

Number 4


----------



## absolutezerok

Man makes me want to run out and buy one right now. I think I have to sell a few things first!!


----------



## absolutezerok

Can you or anyone provide a good picture of the inputs on the rear?


----------



## hardwired




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by andrewjnyc_
> *Can anyone recommend a reliable NYC dealer offering the 960? J&R, where I usually purchase such big ticket items, don't have it listed on their website (nor does Circuit City, though some people in this thread have mentioned ordering 960s from CC). I'm not in a hurry to buy one, but I'd like to do so by the end of August.*



Will the CC's in the NYC area pricematch the J&R's, ShopSunshines, and other Brooklyn camera a/v shops?


----------



## doretta

After clearing up some cabling issues, I must say I'm very pleased with SD on this TV. I'm not seeing any of the artifacting at home that I saw in the store.


I haven't done any tuning yet except for changing "vivid" to "standard" and then boosting the brightness a bit.


After giving the various modes for putting a 4:3 picture on a 16:9 screen a fair trial, I must say I'm very glad I bought a CRT-based TV rather than one more likely to have bar burn-in issues. I can't stand to watch the stretch modes and I don't much like cutting off parts of the picture either.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

If its in the same area, CC will pricematch. As long as those other places are actual stores and not web based, they will pricematch. Im not sure if their policy is within the same state or based on mileage.....


Sears is the only store I know that is willing to pricematch website prices, and they dont carry the XBR line.


----------



## daumier

Has anyone tried the Memorystick slot/ image viewer? I'm curious whether the TV would display pictures in 1080i (or 720p).


----------



## MoneyMINTR

Phantastica,


What are you using to manage your HTPC?


----------



## mr_shinn




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Phantastica_
> *Here are some photos with everything in place. They're a little grainy. Any strange patterns you see on the screen aren't apparent without a camera.*



Hey that looks terrific! What kind of videocard are you using in your htpc? Did you have to tinker with the display settings vis-Ã*-vie PowerStrip?


----------



## bsd107




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by daumier_
> *Has anyone tried the Memorystick slot/ image viewer? I'm curious whether the TV would display pictures in 1080i (or 720p).*



Yes, it displays Memorystick images in 1080i!


----------



## drvais

I think that the 960 can only do 1080i, right?


----------



## JamisonBWolsh




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by doretta_
> *After clearing up some cabling issues, I must say I'm very pleased with SD on this TV. I'm not seeing any of the artifacting at home that I saw in the store.
> 
> 
> I haven't done any tuning yet except for changing "vivid" to "standard" and then boosting the brightness a bit.
> 
> 
> After giving the various modes for putting a 4:3 picture on a 16:9 screen a fair trial, I must say I'm very glad I bought a CRT-based TV rather than one more likely to have bar burn-in issues. I can't stand to watch the stretch modes and I don't much like cutting off parts of the picture either.*



Some members here mentioned that not filling the screen with an image will not cause burn in. I am not certain of this though. I read several articles about burn-in in Direct View CRT's. Even though its not as easy to get as other types of set's. It is POSSIBLE. Burn in is caused by Uneven wear of phosphors. By Watching 4:3 programming, black bars are produced on the sides and possibly on the bottom as well. These Phosphors are not being used. Eventually, you will see ghosting (from the black bars). Im not sure how much of a threat to direct View CRT's there is, BUT I plan on keeping my set for 10+ years. I can tolerate the wide zoom mode (best of all other modes IMO) More than I can tolerate Burn in (In a few years). With correct settings, the chances of getting burn-in is slim. BUT it is possible. There is even a blurb about a warning in the Sony Manual. They would not include that warning if it was not possible.



Here is a quote from a webpage:


"Burn-in can be caused by black bars. Filling the screen with a moving picture is the safest way to view non-wide-screen content on 16:9 direct-view CRT or plasma flat-panel and CRT-based rear-projection displays. Leaving the black bars on for an extended period of time can cause permanent damage to the display--often called burn-in or image retention--which often isn't covered by the warranty. There are plenty of things you can do to help avoid burn-in: look for a set that produces gray bars (instead of black) to either side of the 4:3 image and/or features other ways to combat burn-in; turn contrast down to 50 percent or lower; balance your 4:3 viewing with more wide-screen material (sports and animation in particular make good candidates for stretching). Burn-in does not affect LCD, DLP, or LCoS TVs and is much less likely to affect direct-view tube TVs."
http://www.cnet.com/4520-7874_1-5140690-2.html 


"and is much less likely to affect direct-view tube TVs."-- so this means it is possible...


----------



## Stereodude

Possible, but not likely. If you properly set the brightness and contrast you should be fine.


----------



## NorthJersey




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by hardwired_
> *Will the CC's in the NYC area pricematch the J&R's, ShopSunshines, and other Brooklyn camera a/v shops?*



The CC in Wayne NJ matched the quote I got from J&R's website when I bought my Sony last year.


----------



## TH3_FRB

So the delivery guys show up last night with my 960 and they say "you might want to come take a look before be bother to unload it"


Sure enough...two big holes torn through the front and back of the box...big enough to look through







The back of the set is smashed and the front has a big gash taken out of the tube










Apparently (so I'm told), it was like that when the local delivery company took posession but they were told they had to attempt delivery anyway and let me refuse it...which I did of course. So now I'm waiting to hear back from Sony on sending another out ASAP...and I though I was all but done with this long ordeal


----------



## TCB

TH3_FRB,

Man, sorry to hear about that. What a bummer.


----------



## TH3_FRB

Yeah man. I've got it sold so I wasn't expecting to be watching it anyway, but I was supposed to drive it to the new owner this weekend and now sh has to wait another couple weeks for the replacement to arrive. I picked up one of thos Sanyo's at WalMart (don't laugh, it's a damn nice 32" HD set actually) to hold me through the summer till I figure the DLP options out. I just wanted to be done dealing with this warranty claim crap.



> Quote:
> _Originally posted by TCB_
> *TH3_FRB,
> 
> Man, sorry to hear about that. What a bummer.*


----------



## doretta

I did say I was glad I got a CRT-based set rather than one that was MORE LIKELY to have burn-in issues. Plasma is the only other type of display I considered as I have other objections to LCDs and projection units.


I too expect to use my TV for 10 years. The set I retired is a 15-year-old, 27" Sony that's been fairly heavily used and was a display model when I bought it. It's still going strong and the picture compares favorably with most of what's on the market today.


SD is maybe 25% of our use of this TV now and I expect that will go down even further in the future. I feel quite comfortable not stretching SD on this set. I would have some concern if I had a plasma monitor and that would detract from my enjoyment of the TV.


If wide zoom works for you, more power to you. For me, it's like watching TV in a funhouse--amusing in its own way, but not the experience I'm normally after when I turn on the television.


----------



## MoneyMINTR

so how big is the box? I'm trying to figure out if I can pickup it up using an SUV. anyone have an idea?


----------



## doretta

Mine is 44.5" x 32" x 30".


----------



## Phantastica




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by MoneyMINTR_
> *Phantastica,
> 
> 
> What are you using to manage your HTPC?*



Here's the HTPC lowdown (this is getting a little off topic):


Software:


- Windows Media Center 2004

- BeyondTV (for pvr'ing)

- DVHScap for capturing HD content through firewire

- Zoomplayer for media playback

- Powerstrip for resolution management

- Girder for controlling the PC with a universal remote and for tuning the cable box\\


Hardware:


- Athlon XP 2500 Moblie Barton clocked to XP 3200 speeds

- Radeon 9800 NP flashed with Pro bios and cooled with Artic Cooling VGA Silencer

- ATI DVI/Component adapter

- Asus A7N8X with Dolby Digital 5.1

- 512mb OCZ 3200 Ram

- Seagate Barricuda SATA Hard Drive (not all that quiet)

- Hauppauge PVR250

- USB-UIRT

- Logitech wireless keyboard/optical mouse

- Antec P160 case


It's all working very seamlessly with the 34XBR960 right now. I originally thought that I would need to run everything through Windows Media Center because of the 10 foot interface. But everything is so crisp on this TV that I can use the computer like normal without straining my eyes to read the text. It was very easy finding timings and resolutions that work with this TV. It could handle almost anything I threw at it. You can tell that everything is being scaled up to 1080i, but at resolutions around 1280x720, the amount of flicker is pretty minimal.


HD content being played from the PC is drop dead gorgeous! I really don't think it could look better. The colour and quality blew me away (the same can be said for regular HDTV content from the cable box).


Games also look amazing. So far, every game I've tried has supported widescreen resolutions. Last night I loaded up the Half Life 2 beta and the combination of the wide screen aspect ratio, high resolution, and 5.1 surround sound made it an extremely cinematic experience.


I honestly expected the setup and integration with this set to be more complicated, but everything went smoothly and the whole experience is pretty seamless at this point.


The 34XBR960 is definitely cutout for having a computer attached to the other end!


I'll take some better photos this weekend when I have some daylight to work with. I'll be sure to get some detailed photos of the front and rear panel.


----------



## smirnoffski

Well, everything is finally delivered, set up and working properly. Here it is....

(DVD player: Denon 2200; Receiver: Onkyo TX-SR600)


----------



## CPanther95

Anyone have a front-to-back measurement of the base? (not the overall depth, just how deep a piece of furniture I'll need to make sure the feet are completely on the top.)


----------



## Tigerriot

Nice setup man! Enjoy your new XBR960!


----------



## spongebob




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Phantastica_
> *
> 
> 
> HD content being played from the PC is drop dead gorgeous! I really don't think it could look better. The colour and quality blew me away (the same can be said for regular HDTV content from the cable box).
> 
> 
> Games also look amazing. So far, every game I've tried has supported widescreen resolutions. Last night I loaded up the Half Life 2 beta and the combination of the wide screen aspect ratio, high resolution, and 5.1 surround sound made it an extremely cinematic experience.
> 
> 
> I honestly expected the setup and integration with this set to be more complicated, but everything went smoothly and the whole experience is pretty seamless at this point.
> 
> 
> The 34XBR960 is definitely cutout for having a computer attached to the other end!
> 
> 
> I'll take some better photos this weekend when I have some daylight to work with. I'll be sure to get some detailed photos of the front and rear panel.*



Did you already give an opinion on non-hd/sd/analog PQ?


thx


bob


----------



## snclawson

Phantastica,


I've got a couple questions about the workings of i.Link and the XBR960.


What device does the XBR960 show up as under XP? AV/C Tuner? Were there any drivers that you had to go find, or did it `just work'? From some of the other threads in the HDTV Recorders forum, it seems that it's a bit of a pain to get the drivers setup?


I have to say that the thought of playing around with the i.Link on the XBR960 is what's got me the most excited and anxious for mine to show up! =)


----------



## spider4re

Does anyone know how to change the black bars to gray. I can't figure out why one station (kyw-dt 3.1) has gray bars while the rest (whyy-dt, wcau-dt etc.) do not.


Thanks


----------



## Yung

Well this set finally shows up on the CC website! I'm in NYC and it shows availability on-line and in two NJ stores. Free basic delivery..but no free stand like that had with the 910. Does anyone know if CC will have an "official" sale on the 960?


----------



## snclawson

AFAIK, the grey bars are put there by the broadcaster on 4:3 upconverted programming, not by your TV. I get the same thing in Salt Lake City, the local HD CBS station has gray bars on my 32HS420, whereas the others are black. It looks like kyw-dt is your local HD CBS station?


The gray bars are actually a pretty annoying on the 32" model, since with the squeezed picture on HD signals there are very black bars on top and bottom. It really makes me appreciate the Zoom function on that set. =)


----------



## Phantastica




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by snclawson_
> *Phantastica,
> 
> 
> I've got a couple questions about the workings of i.Link and the XBR960.
> 
> 
> What device does the XBR960 show up as under XP? AV/C Tuner? Were there any drivers that you had to go find, or did it `just work'? From some of the other threads in the HDTV Recorders forum, it seems that it's a bit of a pain to get the drivers setup?
> 
> 
> I have to say that the thought of playing around with the i.Link on the XBR960 is what's got me the most excited and anxious for mine to show up! =)*



The firewire line that I'm running into my PC is from the Motorola 6200 box, not the XBR960. If I have a chance this weekend then I'll give it a shot.


As for my impressions of the SD quality, it's about what I'd expect. The Motorola 6200 is doing the actual tuning, so I can't comment on the XBR960's tuner, but its ability to display SD (analogue and digital) doesn't strike me as being poor. The biggest problem I have is with the amount of compression that Comcast has on a lot of their channels. SD channels that have either better encoding or a higher bitrate look pretty solid though. In my opinion the XBR960 is doing a good job of displaying SD. I'm coming from a 20 inch tv though, so anything is going to be a big step forward.


----------



## theanimala

Man, this is a long thread. Has anyone done a side by side with the 910? My biggest problem with the 910 is the lack of brightness in certain modes.


What I find really weird about the 960 is that it doesn't say XBR anywhere on the front. To me, XBR is a selling feature and something to show with pride. I'd be disappointed not having the little logo on the front.


----------



## BloatedCorpse

..says trinitron XBR Super Fine Pitch right on the flip-up front panel.


----------



## doretta

Unusually enough, this TV does not have feet. The bottom is flat and also the wing-like things on the sides that extend forward a bit (which you fasten to the Sony stand, if you buy a Sony stand) also rest on the stand surface.


If you want everything that could be on the surface to rest on the surface with no overhang, your stand needs to be a minimum of 22" deep.


Mine is 24" deep and I have a bit more than an inch and a quarter clearance in front and a little less than three quarters of an inch in back. That's just about right, in my opinion. Which is just dumb luck on my part, since I bought the stand before the TV was even available. Did I say I have about 1/2 inch extra on either side of the TV too? Did I mention dumb luck?


----------



## Jack Gilvey

I've seen mentioned in a few 910 reviews that in order to appreciate the added resolution in the tube you must have the contrast set fairly low (Perfect Vision). Can anyone say if this is lower than required for accurate calibration...and is it evidenced in the 960?


----------



## LordSte

I've only read the first 2 pages of this thread (boy, is it long), and a lot of people have said that the Sony KD-34XBR960 is not available at Best Buy. I work at a Best Buy in the Chicagoland area and have been following this TV since it was announced. So one day I punched in the model number into our system and the TV's info came up. I was surprised because our store never carries XBRs. I even did a fake delivery and used my name and address as the recipient, and it went through. Of course I had to void the transaction because I can't sell myself a TV...BUT ANYWAY, yes Best Buy has it in their system, but I don't think they're gonna get any for display on the sales floor. It's probably gonna be a special order item only. Hell, maybe I'll buy it, get it delivered, then return it to the store and display it myself. Last time I checked it was the same price as on SonyStyle.com, but you can always go to the store and tell them to do a price check. I don't know the SKU number offhand, but I can check in about 4 hours since I have a store meeting in about that time.


I've tried offering this TV to customers, but none of them are interested. Same thing when we had the KV-34HS510. They'd come in and ask me "What's the best TV you guys got?" So, I'd walk them to the 34HS510 and they would laugh at me or look confused and say: "But it's so small?" or "Wait...this isn't a plasma." Well, enough complaining for me. I gotta get some sleep before that meeting. (10 bucks says I forget to wake up)


----------



## Jack Gilvey

I'd love the Best Buy SKU. If you can find it in the system in Chicago, would it necessarily be available as a special order here in NJ?


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

I heard on the news that Sony is going to be producing the tubes ina different country. This was a few months ago, so I dont remember the exact details...


----------



## bada




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by foxfan_
> *Here is the MOST IMPORTANT difference between the XBR and the XS. The XBR has Firewire, the XS doesn't. What's the point of having an integrated tuner if you can't record anything from it? An integrated HD receiver with firewire is the most required item here since the Canadian cable companies don't have firewire on their receivers. When cablecards will be activated, only the xbr960 owners will be able to record HD. This feature is the ultimate reason to buy in the United States of America.*



I'm contemplating buying this in the US, even though I live in Montreal. Closest place might be Plattsburgh Vt? If anyone knows a good price for the set in Plattsburgh or Burlington, please let me know! *If* something should go wrong with this set, what would I have to do, since the warranty is US and I'm in Canada?


----------



## spider4re

I usually don't watch 4:3 tv but I have been catching a few programs in this mode and have noticed something odd. On the extreme left (of the image that is being displayed) there is a vertical row of red pixels and on the extreme right of the image is a vertical row of blue pixels. Do any other owners have this anomaly and if so, is this something that can be fixed via user settings and/or service menu adj.?


----------



## LordSte




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Jack Gilvey_
> 
> I'd love the Best Buy SKU. If you can find it in the system in Chicago, would it necessarily be available as a special order here in NJ?



The SKU is: 6718572

These SKUs are company-wide, so your local Best Buy rep should be able to order it from anywhere. To find out for sure, just go to the store and tell an employee to look it up. In the delivery screen, it will say: "Store Amount: 0 , Warehouse Amount: 0" That's cool because it's a special order item, but the delivery should still go through. Let me know of any problems.


I also looked for other models in the system and found out that Best Buy is also getting the KD-34XS955 and KD-30XS955 models, but not until September. And I think that these will actually be on display in the store and not just a special order item.


----------



## bnbhoha

Bestbuy has the Sony HTIB Model: HT-6600DP for $449.99. I belive Circuit City has a 14 day price match policy. I went in and PM for the price difference + 10% of the difference. Circuit City had this for $559 when I bought it a week ago w/ my XBR 960 (which is till on order) and now they have it for $499. Good luck (take the print out of Bestbuy to them) Remember your XBR960 and HTIB have to be on the same receipt for the $400 rebate. In the end you pay around $90 after taxes for a $500 theatre system. I had a 10% off any audio/theatre system coupon; they would not let me pricematch and use the 10% off. I argued that anyone can walk in and price match, but everyone did not get a "special" coupon which I got in the mail for moving to my new residence. Manager wouldn't budge and made a comment that he gurantees that it's on sale and will find out during lunch. I'm guessing they don't price match clearance itmes; however, I didn't see it say clearance. Regardeless, I didn't argue because I was getting a good deal anyway. Good luck.



UPDATE: Circuit City.com has a 110% 30 day price match gurantee. In store probably has the same thing.
http://www.circuitcity.com/cs_conten...=c&incat=11061 

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....0&type=product


----------



## LordSte

I bet you that 10% off coupon says something like "Not good with any other offer" on it in fine print, and that's why you can't get both deals. Same thing over at Best Buy, a price match counts as a promotion and you can't get two promotions (there are very rare instances). Best Buy was also the first to have that 110% 30-day price match dealy....so go to hell Circuit City! Nah, just kidding. I like the product they have over at CC better anyway. Actually, look for some "special" Best Buy stores (upgraded stores) that are going to carry product that the other stores don't have. Mine is currently being remodeled to become one of these stores.


----------



## Jack Gilvey

Thanks for the SKU, LordSte...I'll let you know how I make out.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

bnbhoha,


Thanks for the heads up on the best buy price. Do you need a coupon to show CC the price BB are offering for or do they call them?


----------



## daumier

Got my DVE on Friday and I tried to calibrate my TV. Quite frankly (this may be due to my untrained eye), the adjustments that I ended up making - which do not involve entering the service menu - did not veer off far from the 'Cinema' (? I think that's what its called) setting. And I was rather disappointed with the result -- I thought the picture looked much darker and less detailed than before.


I have to say that I was limited in the amount of adjustments available to me. For example, I was able to adjust the color and hue fairly well when viewing the screen using the supplied blue filter. But my green was way off, and the red (even after switching to 'monitor' mode to de-emphasize the red), was not looking so hot either.


I also had difficulties with the picture setting - I couldn't figure out at what point the grey boxes began to 'bloom'. Quite frankly, I couldn't see much difference, other than the grey boxes look brighter at the higher setting.


The one problem I had that I wished I could fix was still present. Basically, when viewing straight lines (e.g. picture of words or banners), I notice a second thin line that sits right above the line. This is present regardless whether I'm watching satellite or DVD. Adjusting the sharpness to minimum helps somewhat, but it's causing the picture to be way too soft. Plus the lines are still visible. I also turned off the TrueEdge (?) feature to no avail.


My questions:

1. the line issue - is this something that can be fixed by using the service menu?

2. is DVE really not that useful unless one uses it to calibrate the tv via the service menu?

3. does anyone know a trustworthy and experienced ISF calibrator in Portland Ore?


----------



## montreal




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by bada_
> *I'm contemplating buying this in the US, even though I live in Montreal. Closest place might be Plattsburgh Vt? If anyone knows a good price for the set in Plattsburgh or Burlington, please let me know! *If* something should go wrong with this set, what would I have to do, since the warranty is US and I'm in Canada?*



Two years ago I bought my 34XBR800 in Canada. The list price in Canada was 20% higher than the US list price after currency correction. IMO, the 34XBR960 is not being offered in Canada because our cable companies are not ready for a cablecard TV, if ever.


If you buy in Plattsburgh, you will probably pay the list price and a local NY state tax. If you can get the retailer to drive it to the border (for a fee), you might be exempt from NY state sales tax. At the border, you will have to argue that the TV is manufactured in Mexico or the US and is therefore exempt from import duty under the North American Free Trade Agreement. Ask at the border before you buy. You will pay the same Canadian sales taxes that you would have paid on a TV bought in Canada. I would expect your landed price before taxes to be around $3100 CDN. The list price of the 34XBR910 in Canada is $3800 CDN and you might get at best a 5% discount in Canada. So for a savings of about $575 CDN you get the equivalent of a second generation XBR910 with an internal tuner and a firewire output.


If it breaks down in the first two years, you will have to drive the set back to Plattsburgh for servicing. If your Canadian bought XBR910 breaks down, you will be protected for the first year by Sony Canada, and for the second year by the credit card company policy if you have a MOSAIK like credit card.


I personally have imported DVD electronics from the US when no longer available in Canada, otherwise for a heavy, fragile item like a TV, I would stomach the 20% penalty for living in Canada. Take heart, the Canadian built Toyota Matrix cost thousands less in Canada than in the U.S.


----------



## bnbhoha

NO coupon needed to pricemat bestbuy, just printout the above link and take to circuit city. That's it. Good luck.


p.s. my coupon that I tried to use didn't have any restrictions like can't be combined w/ other offers etc. I was a coupon they sent to your new residence. I think they could have used it if they wanted to.


----------



## foxfan

Can anyone else confirm if BB can have it? I called the Williston, VT store and gave them the SKU. They said it didn't exist. I would much rather buy at BB since their extended service plan has worldwide coverage. I'll check again on another day...


----------



## drvais

Daumier, I don't think blooming boxes is the best way to set contrast as I'm not sure if every set blooms all that noticeably.


As far as loss of detail, remember that with the sharpness control turned down, at first it seems like you've lost detail, but now you're actually seeing more detail as the picture takes on a more film like appearance.


----------



## snclawson

I had one hell of a time getting the pricematch at Circuit City. I had a printout of the BestBuy.com web page showing the price and that it was in-stock at the local store. I ended up having to go to two different Circuit City's and get the manager involved (on both ends!) to get it done.


At first Circuit City claimed that they wouldn't do the pricematch because they don't match `internet prices' and said that I could bring in the shelf-tag from the BestBuy! When they did call the BestBuy store, they initially clamed to not carry the item, then changed their tune to say that they did have it, but that their price was full list $599.99 (even claiming to have checked the shelf tag)). This was the point that the manager of the Circuit City called and talked to the manager of the Best Buy and they managed to finally clear things up.


Part of the problem could be that the HT6600DP is actually on clearance at BestBuy (that's what it says on the shelf tag), so it might not show up normally in their system anymore? I notice that if you put it in your cart online that it says that it's on backorder. It still seems to be available pretty widely locally though (all three of my local stores have them).


Foxfan,


Go to BestBuy.com and search for ``HT-6600DP'' (you have to have the dash in there, otherwise it won't show up). Once you're at the HT-6600DP's page, click on `Select preferred store availability.'' link and type in the zip code. I just did this for Williston (zip code 05495 as far as I can tell), and it says that it's available at the Williston VT store, the West Lebanon NH store _and_ the Saratoga Springs NY store.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

SnClawson,


I had ZERO problem with the price match. I just walked up to the counter and said That Best buy was selling it for a cheaper price. They told me eithor print the best buy webpage with the ad or give them the phone number to call. They pointed me to a koisk in the store, so I printed the ad out and not only did they match the price, but added 10 percent more. I cant list prices, but lets just say I paid $10 cheaper then the best buy price (price match) plus the rebate offer ($400) makes this HTIB cost only $40 (not including tax!). What a STEAL!


----------



## foxfan

-snclawson

I wasn't talking about the HTB kit. I don't want that.


I was talking about the TV.


About the TV, has anyone really SEEN the new 34XBR3 stand yet? I want to know exactly what it looks like.


----------



## snclawson

I've done PMs in the past at Circuit City without any sort of problem, which is what especially drove me nuts! Normally this sort of pain getting a PM done would mean that I was at Best Buy.










I guess that the main thing that I'd like to say is that if anyone does go to get a PM and they call the Best Buy, be prepared for just about anything. In any case, the price is on their web page and the price in the store is the same price.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by foxfan_
> *
> 
> 
> About the TV, has anyone really SEEN the new 34XBR3 stand yet? I want to know exactly what it looks like.*



The new 34XBR3 is EXACTLY like the older one except that the grey color is SLIGHTLY darker (I guess I like to use the word slightly...)


----------



## triplex

Can anyone tell me what the footprint depth of the tv is? I know it is 24" deep, but what I need to know is the depth of what actually touches the TV stand. The stand I have is going to be about 19" deep. Thanks


----------



## NorthJersey




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by foxfan_
> *-snclawson
> 
> I wasn't talking about the HTB kit. I don't want that.
> 
> 
> I was talking about the TV.
> 
> 
> About the TV, has anyone really SEEN the new 34XBR3 stand yet? I want to know exactly what it looks like.*



search for it on CircuitCity's website, they have that and the 34xbr960, and the pictures for both


----------



## foxfan

OK. Perhaps I should have been more precise. I'm looking for someone to provide more evidence that Best Buy is carrying it. Someone posted that it's in their system and available on a special order basis, but when I called the Best Buy in Williston, VT and gave them the SKU, they said it didn't exist. Was the SKU for the TV or the HTB kit?


I have to buy the XBR960 from Best Buy for warranty purposes.


----------



## RJB in Phila

Unless something has recently changed, Best Buy does not carry the XBR line. CC, Tweeter, Good Guys and others do.


----------



## foxfan

I know that Best Buy usually doesn't carry XBR but how do you explain this?


LordSte wrote:


> Quote:
> I work at a Best Buy in the Chicagoland area and have been following this TV since it was announced. So one day I punched in the model number into our system and the TV's info came up. I was surprised because our store never carries XBRs. I even did a fake delivery and used my name and address as the recipient, and it went through. Of course I had to void the transaction because I can't sell myself a TV...BUT ANYWAY, yes Best Buy has it in their system, but I don't think they're gonna get any for display on the sales floor. It's probably gonna be a special order item only. Hell, maybe I'll buy it, get it delivered, then return it to the store and display it myself. Last time I checked it was the same price as on SonyStyle.com, but you can always go to the store and tell them to do a price check. I don't know the SKU number offhand, but I can check in about 4 hours since I have a store meeting in about that time.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

Got the unit this morning to replace my old 910. Only had it in about 90 minutes and didn't read the 30 pages prior to this - which may end up being a mistake. If I repeat something, sorry.


It is a tad lighter than the old 910/stand at first blush - possibly even a slightly different texture finish. You heard me right, it a lighter silver, the 910 was a bit darker. I can only tell as I have it in the 910 stand - but will probably change that out.


The OSD is TOTALLY CHANGED from the 910. It gives you a dot where the default is so you can always return it to that point.


First GOTCHA. DVI in Input 7 is gone replaced by HDMI. If you think only a few places carry DVI to DVI cables, try finding a DVI to HDMI cable locally, lol.


You still cannot do 16:9 side by side.


The autoscan setup takes close to 50+ minutes and even states that on screen.


No Cablecard installed yet (see my post under HDTV Recorders for that saga), but it did detect the OTA HD Signals on the cable. However, it has some of the stranges channel numbers besides them I've seen - still haven't figured out a way to manually punch them in.


It did not detect DiscoveryHD and TNTHD which are part of the basic cable package and not restricted as far as I know at this time.


It is having horrible macroblocking on the OTA HD Cable Channels and I know I am giving it atleast 0dbm going in.


I have not seen a way to use both Cable and OTA at the same time on the unit, even though there are inputs for both. You probably have to change this in the setup between cable and antenna - but will RTFM later.


The picture IS WAY TO HOT out of the box in the default settings compared to the 910. It's going to take a while to get this one settled down.


The firewire detects the STB (SA-3250HD) and the DVHS (JVC 30k) and even able to control the DVHS functions on the screen with the Sony Remote with no additional setup issues. HOWEVER, I have NOT been able to send a signal OUT of the Sony to the DVHS and make it record.


It's doing one thing that I cannot figure out for the life of me. I have the STB plugged into a standard Video in on one input and the YPbPr to Input 5 on the DTV side. When watching S.W.A.T just now on Showtime in HD, the Sony knew it was SWAT and how much time was left when I was on input 2 in 4:3. However, when I go to the YPbPr settings on Input 5 from same STB it has no idea what the program is or the time left.


How it is getting that info through the 4:3 is beyond me unless its encoded in the signal that I never knew about before. Of course, I never had any reason to look for or have it displayed on a TV screen either. If it was there, I am surprised the STB Program Guide doesnt show it.


As I get more into it, I'll let you know the comparison.


----------



## petesimac

OMG! You bought the new 960 to replace your "old" 910?! In my wildest dreams I should be rich enough to buy a $2,000+ tv set every year. Congratulations to you! I'm still making due with my dinosaur 34XBR800; poor me. Well, you'd better put your order in now for next year's Sony which I'm sure will have "Even more super fine pitch HD". Sorry, just a bit of fun at your expense.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

Actually, no.


The aperture on my 910 was defective and the set had so many other problems, it was the worse one the tech had ever seen. Instead of the weeks of repair to send it to South Florida, they offered me the newer one.


I purchased the extended warranty for $200 as we are in the lightning capital of the world and pointed out that I shouldn't be without a TV for 3 weeks as the selling points was they were local and supported their product.


At first they tried to give me one of the showroom demo 910s as they had no more in stock. I refused.


Calls to every officer at their corporate office got me a new 960.


Considering that I purchased a DVHS in May from them, 100 DVHS tapes in June and countless other electronic gear through the years, they probably found it worth their while to keep me happy.


----------



## dahester




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by HDTVFanAtic_
> *The firewire detects the STB (SA-3250HD) and the DVHS (JVC 30k) and even able to control the DVHS functions on the screen with the Sony Remote with no additional setup issues. HOWEVER, I have NOT been able to send a signal OUT of the Sony to the DVHS and make it record.
> *



Try connecting just the JVC to the Sony. The SA-3250HD may not like more than one unit on the Firewire bus and could be tying up the bus. If you connect the JVC's component cables to the Sony, you should be able to use the PIP window to confirm when you do have the Firewire connection working.


Also, try connecting just the SA-3250HD to the Sony. A previous post indicated that some cable STBs will stream content directly to the TV.


-Dylan


----------



## triplex

Is it me or does this TV have a slow refresh rate. I am sure it is probably the same as other brands, but for a tv that just came out it should be improved. Also, at first the remote looks great, and then you go to program it and it doesn't have codes for a couple of my components. For instance there are no Denon DVD codes. I guess this means that I have yet another useless remote. And the remote has no learning feature either.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by triplex_
> *Is it me or does this TV have a slow refresh rate. I am sure it is probably the same as other brands, but for a tv that just came out it should be improved. Also, at first the remote looks great, and then you go to program it and it doesn't have codes for a couple of my components. For instance there are no Denon DVD codes. I guess this means that I have yet another useless remote. And the remote has no learning feature either.*



Identical remote to the 910


----------



## bnbhoha

I was hoping if someone could enlighten me on a comparison between the 40 inch Sony and the XBR960. I still am waiting for my pre-order from CC and each time I go in there to look at the 910, I have a little bit of buyers remorse because it seems kind of small for my big living room. I want a huge tv like the 40 inch but want a widescreen at the same time. Currently, I'm told that 34 inch widesreen is the biggest they make right now.


I was wondering how the 40 inch in widescreen would compare to the 960. Since it's bigger, would it be equivalent or slightly larger; I know I will have the black bars on top and bottom but in widescreen is it the same or bigger? I can pick it up for the same price of the 960 and realize that it doesn't have a built in tuner or card slot etc and it is a 3 year old model with no plans to come out with a new model. Ialso know there's some kind of formula out there, but I can't seem to find the thread. The 40 inch would look/fit a little better in my square slot they built near by fireplace in my new home. I appreciate any input. Thanks


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

2 corrections after spending more time with the 960.


1) The remote though almost identical to the 910 is slightly different in that it has added an ilink button uptop on the sources, as well as a freeze, jump and exit button on the button.


2) You can use the Antenna and Cable at the same time, selectable through the SAT/CABLE/ANT button. You might have been able to do something similar with the 910 and I never knew it - but the ANT - SAT/CABLE were on different buttons on the 910 remote.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

Additions from 910.


Much greater control with settings instead of a line graph in the 910.


More labels for the Video Source than the 910 - and you can reuse the labels which you could not do with the 910.


I believe there are more memory settings of controls with the 910.


The manual says you can record out to a DVHS though I have not yet been able to get that to work - though it hasnt been my top priority.


It has a very good diagnostic page for the ATSC channels that gives you a lot of critical info from frequency to strength to S/N Ratio to Errors to AGC percent.


My only complaint not mentioned previously is that there were not more HD inputs added as I ran out of HiDef inputs within 2 weeks of getting the 910.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by bnbhoha_
> *I was hoping if someone could enlighten me on a comparison between the 40 inch Sony and the XBR960.
> 
> 
> I was wondering how the 40 inch in widescreen would compare to the 960. Since it's bigger, would it be equivalent or slightly larger; I know I will have the black bars on top and bottom but in widescreen is it the same or bigger?*



It's actually an inch smaller in 16:9. 33" compared to the 34" of the 910/960.


I have a friend that picked one up a year ago as he stated most content was still in 4:3 format.


After getting home and seeing what HD 16:9 format looked like, he says over the long term he wished he had picked up the 34" 16:9 instead.


The 4:3 is about 27 1/2 inches on the 34".


You have to decide what's important to you.


----------



## shugazer9

I thought it was closer to 36.5 inches in widescreen.


----------



## snclawson

33" is right for the 36" 4:3 screen. The 40" has at least a 36" 16:9 picture.


----------



## bnbhoha

Thank you. I just read some reviews at CC and one person said it was 37 inches widescreen and another said 36. So you actually get more TV with the 40XBR800 then? Thanks


----------



## Segaboy

Don't forget that engaging the vertical compression of the raster is VERY difficult on the power supply of the monitor. You prematurely age the monitor when you are engaging the 16:9 window on any 4:3 monitor.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by shugazer9_
> *I thought it was closer to 36.5 inches in widescreen.*



I've never measured it. Telling you what a friend of mine said who does have it. It *assume* he wouldnt make that statement otherwise.


I HAVE MEASURED the 960 in 4:3 and I can tell you its no 33". It's 27 1/2 inches diag.


----------



## bnbhoha

"You prematurely age the monitor when you are engaging the 16:9 window on any 4:3 monitor"


I don't doubt you; does anyone else concur? If that's the case, perhaps I should reconsider my options. I really like the 40 inch but in a couple of years when everything is widescreen I don't want to "age" the TV.




p.s. I know this thread is about 960 and I will refrain from asking any more questions on this TV. Thaks


----------



## doretta




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by HDTVFanAtic_
> *No Cablecard installed yet (see my post under HDTV Recorders for that saga), but it did detect the OTA HD Signals on the cable. However, it has some of the stranges channel numbers besides them I've seen - still haven't figured out a way to manually punch them in.
> *



I'm assuming the cablecard will change the channel number thing. I'm supposed to get mine tomorrow.


In the meantime, to manually choose channels like 77.4 or 90.60, use the number pad and the '.' button that's below the '7' and to the left of the '0'.


----------



## ghostrider1

Anyone here bought their 960 from:

wholesaleconnection.com/


Or anything?


----------



## snclawson

Uh-oh...


The shipping availablilty on sonystyle.com for the XBR960 has gone from the standard ``5-12 business days'' to ``Shipping date not available. We will notify you by email when this product has shipped.''


The 34XS955 is supposed to be out in less than a week (July 26th), I wonder if some of the production capacity has gone to getting it ready? I was excited to see that another Circuit City locally got their display model 34XBR960 in, but all other signs still point to a shortage. =(


----------



## Dan Herrmann

I got mine on Monday. Ordered it from SonyStyle.com on Wednesday. Obviously very quick turnaround.


Fabulous picture AND great audio to boot!


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

I can tell you that the Florida warehouse of Sound Advice (a tweeter company) got 40 in on 7/15 and has another shipment due at the end of this week - so not sure what the shortage is.


----------



## TCB

There is no shortage. Let's not start rumors.







I know that Ultimate Electronics is expecting 175 units in mid-August.


----------



## triplex

The sound quality is the best I have ever heard out of a TV. Nice bass and treble. The true surround effect is also quite good.


Regarding the poor standard definition channels and digital non HDTV channels; To say it is horrible is ridiculous. The quality varies from channel to channel, but it is very watchable. The picture does seem a little washed out (blury), but I don't know if blaming the TV is correct.


Watching DVDs in widescreen mode and HDTV channels are what this TV is all about.


----------



## NathanNC

First, let me thank everyone for the excellent information in this thread. You've help convince me that the XBR960 should fit my needs. The only thing I need to convince me to fork over the cash was to see one in action. I was ecstatic when I found out the Circuit City store in Raleigh, NC has an XBR960 on display. The only problem is that Circuit City had an absolutely terrible feed to the TV and the HD picture looks terrible (Tons of noise and very large artifacts). The SD input actually looked cleaner than the HD input. I'm assuming that this was caused by poor cabling since the XBR960 was the only TV showing these problems, but I couldn't convince the store rep to hook the TV up to another source to verify this. I was about to go ahead and place an order (despite the poor demo) until the sales rep clarified the CC return policy for me. CC will allow a return within 30 days; but unless you exchange the returned TV for another TV of equal or greater value, you are charged a 15% restocking fee. This policy allows you to return a defective TV without penalty, but it could be fairly expensive if you're not happy with the TV...especially considering the XBR960 is at the top of this chain for this class of TV.


Since so many people have recommended CC over other stores, because of their return policy, I was wondering if these people were aware of this restocking fee policy. Is anyone aware of another store that has a more lenient return policy? If I'm going to pay MSRP for the XBR960, I'd like to deal with a more accommodating store. Otherwise, I'd like to save a few hundred dollars and deal with with another store that has a similar return policy.


Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help.


----------



## snclawson

I just went over a reciept that I've got from Circuit City and it mentions a 15% restocking fee, but only for things that have a 14 day return policy (computer hardware and other such things). I've never heard that it applies to TVs.


----------



## RJB in Phila

I just read my CC receipt for the 34xbr960 and it does not mention a 15% restocking fee, except for as snclawson noted: digital cameras, camcorders, desktop PCs, monitors, printers, scanners, and radar detectors.


That being said, I think Tweeter and some other chains have 60 day or more return policies and Tweeter will price match. I went with CC principally because they had the TV first. My dealings with CC have been very good. That being said, it sometimes depends on who you are dealing with at CC.


----------



## TH3_FRB

This is something I've never heard before...care to support it with some data or a tech report or something? If this is indeed the case, why wouldn't the 4:3 content on a widescreen set have the same isseu?



> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Segaboy_
> *Don't forget that engaging the vertical compression of the raster is VERY difficult on the power supply of the monitor. You prematurely age the monitor when you are engaging the 16:9 window on any 4:3 monitor.*


----------



## TH3_FRB

I had a 40XBR800 and the 16:9 picture size is almost 37" diag. So yes, you get a larger picture in both 4:3 and 16:9 with the 40". But it'll cost you 100lbs and potential color purity and geometry issues. If you get a good one then it's a great option...especially considering the current discounts being offered plus the $400 rebate if you do the Sony home theater deal.



> Quote:
> _Originally posted by bnbhoha_
> *Thank you. I just read some reviews at CC and one person said it was 37 inches widescreen and another said 36. So you actually get more TV with the 40XBR800 then? Thanks*


----------



## powerdog

So I finally saw the 960 at the independent store I've been recommending. Here's what happened:

3 salesguys behind the counter, standing and joking among themselves, ignored me for 10 minutes. I finally dragged one over to the 960 and pointed out that the PQ was terrible! Much worse than a $400 SDTV next to it.

He explained that the 960 was just displaying a cheap demo disk for a cheap Bose HTIB. I asked him to put the other TV's DVD in, a fairly new Disney movie, and the PQ was somewhat better but no stunner. Then he says, "We've only got an S-video cable running into it."

What is wrong with these people? Don't they want to sell the TV? Can't they dig up some component cables? "OK guys, here's our marketing plan. We make the 960 look as bad as possible, so people will focus on the cheap Bose HTIB we've got it hooked up to."

I've lost my faith in humanity!


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

This is a pretty important question to anyone with this TV connected to HD Cable whether viewing OTA signals or with CableCard.


Go to the Advanced Menu and bring up the info on a Cable HD Signal, again either with CableCard or without.


In most cases, it is probably QAM256. Could you please post QAM64 or QAM256 and what your S/N level is?


There seems to be an emerging issue that isn't unique to this set.


----------



## snclawson

Ok, my initial freaking out at sonystyle.com going out of stock on the 960 was unwarranted.


I just got off the phone with Circuit City and they've got them in the regional warehouse and will be shipping them out to the stores which will have them next Thursday! So now at least I've got a timeframe... Oh well, a week longer isn't all that much more to wait. Now I'm just crossing my fingers that I don't get a dud. =)


----------



## doretta

Comcast installed the cablecard in my XBR960 today.


While he was at it, the technician ran a new cable to the TV so the signal wouldn't be going through two splitters. It was the first cablecard he had installled.


It works great, now I get a label for the channels as well as the channel numbers on the favorites list. Keeps me from having to remember or look up what's what.


I am very happy with this TV.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by doretta_
> *Comcast installed the cablecard in my XBR960 today.
> 
> 
> While he was at it, the technician ran a new cable to the TV so the signal wouldn't be going through two splitters. It was the first cablecard he had installled.
> 
> 
> It works great, now I get a label for the channels as well as the channel numbers on the favorites list. Keeps me from having to remember or look up what's what.
> 
> 
> I am very happy with this TV.*



What QAM and S/N do you see on the channels?


----------



## doretta




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by HDTVFanAtic_
> *What QAM and S/N do you see on the channels?*



256 and on the HD channels between 28-30 dB.


Seems like that SNR is lower than it is supposed to be but I don't see any pixellation issues on any of those channels.


----------



## zhiyiliu

 www.shopsunshine.com , has anyone bought from this web site before? I am thinking about buying xbr960 from them, but can't make my decision yet. Hopefully someone else has some experience with them.


I'm not going to post the price here, but they are selling xbr960 for an incredible low price. You can go see for yourself.


----------



## doretta

Be sure and check the shipping cost. Once shipping to me is added, the price is no lower than I got locally.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by doretta_
> *256 and on the HD channels between 28-30 dB.
> 
> 
> Seems like that SNR is lower than it is supposed to be but I don't see any pixellation issues on any of those channels.*



Specs for QAM 256 call for floor of 32db, so its a shock you can get a lock on the QAM. I am getting pixelazation at 32db. It's looking like this is going to be an issue as the STB has a good 37db S/N on it.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

Given the issues with my 910, I am in retrospect SO HAPPY I paid $100 more and got it locally.


It proved the difference in a major headache and a brand new 960.


----------



## zhiyiliu

So is it possible to get the 960 for under $1900 (tax included) at your local?


I live in California, and even adding the shipping cost to the price it's still well under $1900 and I don't have to pay tax since the company is in NY. This kinda low price actually makes me worry about if it is true.


----------



## doretta

No tax here, but yes, the price you mention is definitely possible.


----------



## doretta




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by HDTVFanAtic_
> *Specs for QAM 256 call for floor of 32db, so its a shock you can get a lock on the QAM. I am getting pixelazation at 32db. It's looking like this is going to be an issue as the STB has a good 37db S/N on it.*



Nope, not seeing a single pixel out of place. I've variously seen both 30 and 32 dB as the number below which you are likely to see problems.


Not sure what Comcast tells their techs but mine obviously was puzzled by the marginal signal numbers and the fact that there was no problem with the picture on any of the digital channels. He replaced all the cabling to this set, including the line from the main cable on the street to the house.


I'm a little puzzled by the STB comment. Isn't the reported SNR is a measure of what the cable is delivering to the set?


----------



## Jack Gilvey

I've seen mentioned in a few 910 reviews that in order to appreciate the added resolution in the tube you must have the contrast set fairly low (Perfect Vision). Can anyone say if this is lower than required for accurate calibration...and is it evidenced in the 960?


----------



## TCB

With regard to shopsunshine dot com, I would read up on them at epinions dot com. Read the horror stories about these people. Now, some on this forum have had no problems, but if even 2 of those negative accounts are true on epinions (and I think they're all true) I wouldn't trust them with my money.


----------



## Chris_T

Wow this a long thread. I just got through reading all 32 pages. Thanks to all for sharing your experiences on this tv. I am very interested in the 960 and was wondering how the stretch modes were on the xbr960?


Chris


----------



## Busta J

I just got my XBR960 last week. I love the TV but have been having a problem: Whenever the TV has been off for a couple hours and I turn it on, the cable picture is kinda scrambled and I can't get any Digital Channels. If I switch to Twin View the other picture looks fine.


The Only way I know to fix this is to turn off the tv and turn it back on again. After that SD cable looks great, i pick up Digital channels, and HD looks great. Anyone else have this problem or have heard anything about it? Is it possible that one of the tuners is bad?


----------



## dahester




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by doretta_
> *Be sure and check the shipping cost. Once shipping to me is added, the price is no lower than I got locally.*



Good point. One other thing to add. Don't be too foolish on saving the last dollar on a heavy item like this. I've had a 42" plasma display, a 32" TV, and a 24" computer monitor all broken during shipping. I am considering the XBR960 as my next purchase, and you can bet I will be buying it locally, even if it is a bit more expensive than the best deal on the web.


-Dylan


----------



## RJB in Phila




> Quote:
> I just got my XBR960 last week. I love the TV but have been having a problem: Whenever the TV has been off for a couple hours and I turn it on, the cable picture is kinda scrambled and I can't get any Digital Channels. If I switch to Twin View the other picture looks fine.



I had a problem with my tuner as well. The cable SD channels were bad and there was no HD reception for the first 10 minutes or so and then it would immediately improve for some reason. This happened every time from a cold start.


At first I thought it was just a cable problem and upgraded my splitters, etc. and it seemed to work at first. However, I continued to have problems and finally called CC and they were very cooperative about replacing it with a new one. The tech moron CC then sent out claimed there was nothing wrong, since he fiddled with it for 10 minutes and he thought since it improved like it always had, he had "fixed it". He also blamed the surround sound system and everything else. He didn't even know you could get HD channels without a STB and never heard of the digital channels with the decimal point tuning. Finally, I had to just tell him to either take it back or replace it and the supervisor told him "if the customer wants it replaced, replace it." I was still within the 30 day return period.


The new one has worked perfectly.


----------



## spongebob




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by dahester_
> *Good point. One other thing to add. Don't be too foolish on saving the last dollar on a heavy item like this. I've had a 42" plasma display, a 32" TV, and a 24" computer monitor all broken during shipping. I am considering the XBR960 as my next purchase, and you can bet I will be buying it locally, even if it is a bit more expensive than the best deal on the web.
> 
> 
> -Dylan*



You'd have to be crazy or really lucky to buy this set mail order. I saw 2 differnt sets last Sunday, 1 at GG and the other at Magnolia. The GG set looked fine but the Magnolia set had such horrible geometry problems ( 4:3 box looked like a trapezoid) !! That I told the sales guy that they were crazy to even display a set with that gross of a problem.


bob


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by doretta_
> *Nope, not seeing a single pixel out of place. I've variously seen both 30 and 32 dB as the number below which you are likely to see problems.
> 
> 
> Not sure what Comcast tells their techs but mine obviously was puzzled by the marginal signal numbers and the fact that there was no problem with the picture on any of the digital channels. He replaced all the cabling to this set, including the line from the main cable on the street to the house.
> 
> 
> I'm a little puzzled by the STB comment. Isn't the reported SNR is a measure of what the cable is delivering to the set?*



Are you at QAM 256 or QAM 64? QAM 64 spec is down to 28db.


The S/N is a mathmatical formula involving the MERL and a few other things - and it is the line feeding the box.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Busta J_
> *I just got my XBR960 last week. I love the TV but have been having a problem: Whenever the TV has been off for a couple hours and I turn it on, the cable picture is kinda scrambled and I can't get any Digital Channels. If I switch to Twin View the other picture looks fine.
> 
> 
> The Only way I know to fix this is to turn off the tv and turn it back on again. After that SD cable looks great, i pick up Digital channels, and HD looks great. Anyone else have this problem or have heard anything about it? Is it possible that one of the tuners is bad?*



Again, what is the S/N on the channels you can't get when this happens? Is it QAM 256 or QAM 64.


----------



## doretta




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by HDTVFanAtic_
> *Are you at QAM 256 or QAM 64? QAM 64 spec is down to 28db.
> 
> 
> The S/N is a mathmatical formula involving the MERL and a few other things - and it is the line feeding the box.*



Definitely at QAM 256.


Right S/N measures the quality of the feed from the cable, so what did you mean by the last sentence of:


Specs for QAM 256 call for floor of 32db, so its a shock you can get a lock on the QAM. I am getting pixelazation at 32db. It's looking like this is going to be an issue as the STB has a good 37db S/N on it.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

It means that if you do not have 32db of S/N all bets are off on locking into a QAM signal...or staying locked on.


If you are at 32db or below, you could have the issues listed above in the past several posts.


I have the STB as the cablecard drivers will not be released to the system until further testing. I can look at the S/N of a channel on the STB or the TV with the same feed.


The STB has 37 - the Sony has 32.



The Sony's tuner is more stingy, for lack of a better word, and looses 5db of S/N.



This is also true of the Panasonic and every CableCard TV I have heard of thus far.


If the TV Makers used a different reference than the MSO and are thinking that the S/N should be fine at 32db, there are going to be MAJOR problems.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

Well, I am getting my 2nd 960 today at 12:30-2:30pm. Lets hope it comes out perfect. My 1st one had a slight geometric problem in the bottom right hand corner. If this one has that same problem, then I will accept it. If I had to do it over again, i would NEVER have called a sony authorized tech to "fix it". He pretty much destroyed this set. My 30 day policy ends the 28th, so I will have a few days with this 2nd set.


----------



## doretta




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by HDTVFanAtic_
> *I have the STB as the cablecard drivers will not be released to the system until further testing. I can look at the S/N of a channel on the STB or the TV with the same feed.
> 
> 
> The STB has 37 - the Sony has 32.
> 
> 
> 
> The Sony's tuner is more stingy, for lack of a better word, and looses 5db of S/N.
> 
> 
> 
> This is also true of the Panasonic and every CableCard TV I have heard of thus far.
> 
> *



What makes you think the difference is due to the tuner degrading the signal as opposed to the measurement circuitry just measuring low? Do you have display problems when the cable is plugged directly into the TV but no display problems when you feed the TV from the STB?


My experience (perfectly OK picture but SNR reported at 28 on QAM256) would indicate that the measurement circuitry in the set may be underestimating the actual quality of the signal.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

Can someone answer this question?


1.) what is Qam?


I checked the diagnostics section of the menu and found out this:


ANTENNA HDTV

Signal strength: 76

Freq: 743000

Modulation: 8vsb

Status: Lock

errors:0

SNR: 22

AGC:29


I dont have Cable Hdtv yet (adelphia does not offer it in my area yet)

Can someone tell me if this is good or what?


----------



## Busta J




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by HDTVFanAtic_
> *Again, what is the S/N on the channels you can't get when this happens? Is it QAM 256 or QAM 64.*



Its QAM256. What is it and what's the difference between the two?

S/N is usually 30 or 31.


----------



## theinfamoustimmy




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by doretta_
> *After clearing up some cabling issues, I must say I'm very pleased with SD on this TV. I'm not seeing any of the artifacting at home that I saw in the store.
> 
> 
> I haven't done any tuning yet except for changing "vivid" to "standard" and then boosting the brightness a bit.
> 
> 
> After giving the various modes for putting a 4:3 picture on a 16:9 screen a fair trial, I must say I'm very glad I bought a CRT-based TV rather than one more likely to have bar burn-in issues. I can't stand to watch the stretch modes and I don't much like cutting off parts of the picture either.*



You're saying the SDTV is bearable BEFORE the cable card, right? As in, straight out of the wall analog cable? Because it may be a deal breaker for me...


I plan on buying from CC, so I know I can just return within 30, but I don't have a pick-up truck to lug the thing both ways. ^_^


----------



## doretta




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by theinfamoustimmy_
> *You're saying the SDTV is bearable BEFORE the cable card, right? As in, straight out of the wall analog cable? Because it may be a deal breaker for me...
> *



Right, the analog channels were fine before the cablecard.


----------



## CPanther95

Can anybody describe the stretch options - and can it stretch 4:3 sent locally as a 1080i signal with pillar box?


Just ordered mine from Sony.


----------



## triplex

Anyone know how to program the remote to work with a cable box? Manual says goto pay 51 but it doesn't say how to program the cable box specifically and I haven't been able to get it to work with my Pioneer HDTV tuner.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by doretta_
> *What makes you think the difference is due to the tuner degrading the signal as opposed to the measurement circuitry just measuring low? Do you have display problems when the cable is plugged directly into the TV but no display problems when you feed the TV from the STB?
> 
> *




yes


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by JamisonBWolsh_
> *Can someone answer this question?
> 
> 
> 1.) what is Qam?
> 
> 
> I checked the diagnostics section of the menu and found out this:
> 
> 
> ANTENNA HDTV
> 
> Signal strength: 76
> 
> Freq: 743000
> 
> Modulation: 8vsb
> 
> Status: Lock
> 
> errors:0
> 
> SNR: 22
> 
> AGC:29
> 
> 
> I dont have Cable Hdtv yet (adelphia does not offer it in my area yet)
> 
> Can someone tell me if this is good or what?*



It is a type of modulation....over the air you are seeing 8vsb. On Cable it will be either QAM64, QAM128 or QAM256. The higher the QAM, the more bandwidth, thus more signals, they can put on the Frequency.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Busta J_
> *Its QAM256. What is it and what's the difference between the two?
> *



The cable company can get more channels on the same frequency with QAM 256 (2 HD Signals of 38Mbps total ) as opposed to QAM64.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

I had a number of problems with my 910 which resulted in me getting an upgrade to a 960.


The 960 is also exhibiting some geometry problems I am not thrilled about.


The only way to REALLY fix these things is to take it apart and redo all the magnets on the tube.


I will tell you from my experience with this design, I wouldn't dream of mail ordering this set.


----------



## BloatedCorpse

fanatic, do you plan on having the geometry fixed? Mine could also use some improvement. Let me know your plan of action.


----------



## bada

In 2-3 weeks, myself and 2 other people will be going down to the US from Canada to buy the 34xbr960. With the extended/international warranty we should be safe. We definately will be checking the 3 sets in the store for obvious defects before we come back with our trophies.


What would be a list of things we should check. Are there any known potential problems with this model we should look out for besides geometry?


Matt


----------



## doretta

Gack.


The kid and I were messing around with the different screen modes on the 960 when suddenly a narrow black frame appeared near the edges of the picture.


Anybody seen this? It's weird looking. It shows up on all the channels, no matter what the screen mode is. It even shows up when we choose the memory stick input.


Don't start explaining about black bars and different aspect ratios and etc., that isn't what this is. Think of the picture on the TV as a paper photograph. Now think of an empty picture frame whose overall dimensions are just a bit smaller than those of the photograph. Now think of the frame set down on top of the photograph. Most of the picture shows up inside the black frame, but some of it is visible around the OUTSIDE edge of the frame.


Talk about something you don't want burned into your screen. Turning the set on and off has no effect. Resetting the video menu has no effect.


Any ideas anyone?


----------



## Segaboy

Unplug the unit from the wall (AC power) for two hours.


Then reconnect the monitor and power up.


I would also remove CableCard and/or Cable TV feed.


If there is a Master Reset in the owner's manual...Go for it, once you have 'cleared' the memory of the unit.


CALL SONY!


----------



## BTV Mark

After reading this thread for months, I decided to take the plunge. Just got my '960 on Saturday. Thanks for all the excellent information from all you "early adopters." I Bought from ABT in Glenview, Illinois.


Love the set! What a picture! I'm using it with an external rotatable yagi antenna for OTA signals. Here in Chicago, there's quite a lot of programming on the digital channels. Especially enjoy watching the digital "simulcasts" that eliminate all the analog artifacts (ghosting, airplane flutter, etc.). And great audio--I'm only using my home theater audio system for DVD's.


But, I did have a few questions regarding signal strength. Apparently, either the digital modes need a strong signal, or the Sony tuner isn't very sensitive. I live in Wilmette, approximately 14 miles from the DTV transmitters. When I first plugged the TV in, I got perfect reception from some digital channels, and some "blocking" on others. I re-aimed the antenna, and everything on all the digital channels was fine. But some of the analog channels were ghosting. Well, I re-aimed slightly to optimize the analog channels, and some of the digital channels started "blocking" and then dropped out ("no signal"). Luckily, I have two pre-amps in my distribution system, so I was able to increase the gain, and now everything's fine all-around. (I typically lost "lock" at about 21 S/N and 65 on the "antenna bar." Now that things are operating fine, I get 30 S/N and 85-98 on the antenna signal strength.)


I would like to know more about the "suggested" S/N strength and what the "antenna" signal bar actually mean. (For example, what does the green light mean--and what if you hit "100"or go above that--is that then too strong a signal?) Can anyone provide more information on this?


TIA


Mark


----------



## jedi29

*bump*


----------



## bada

exactly what I was thinking...


----------



## MoneyMINTR




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by daumier_
> *No review yet -- but question for new owners: does your tv take several seconds to actually turn on after you hit the power button? Mine starts by degaussing itself (manual says this is normal), but then it takes about 10 - 15 seconds (I'm guessing here - haven't timed it yet) before it actually shows a picture.
> 
> 
> Just want to make sure there is nothing wrong w/ my set.
> 
> 
> thx!
> 
> 
> D*




daumier,


What do you mean by degaussing? Does it flicker momentarily at the side of the screen before it turns on? If so, then I have this also. It takes approx 5-7 secs (never timed it) for the TV to turn on. Is this what everyone else is experiencing?


----------



## BTV Mark

re: degaussing.


This is actually a great feature, and something Sony also puts on its high-end broadcast monitors. It demagnitizes the screen so there is no residual magnitism, which would cause color impurities. This often appears as a red or purple shading in one corner of the screen I actually saw this in my '960 the day I got it. So I turned it off for a few minutes and then back on. The degausser did it's job and I've got a great picture again.


re: Taking a while to "lock up." Mine does take slightly longer than my old analog set. But it's a lot shorter than my Windows computer!







Given the complexity of this receiver, we should expect it to take a bit longer to "wake up." It's worth the wait!


Mark


----------



## MoneyMINTR

So, what happens when the set is degaussing.


Mine seems to have a "snap, crackle, and pop" sound with momentary flickering (arcs of light) during the initial turn on. Is this normal?


----------



## BTV Mark

It's hard to describe the sound. (Anyone else able to help?) It's a little like the hum you hear when you turn on a big fan. Almost a "powerful" sound--not too loud, but not thin or weak. It only lasts for a second or two. And the screen will shrink a small amount and show a "rainbow" color (if it's warmed up enough to see).


But the snap, crackle, pop, and arcs of light you describe--I'm concerned about that. It doesn't sound right. I think you should call the store where you bought it and talk with them. Or go back to the store and ask them to turn the floor model off and then back on so you can see (and hear) the degausser in operation.


Mark


----------



## michaelggray

MoneyMINTR


I would agree with the "Snap crackle pop" sound. Mine does this and I'm not concerned. I beleive that is what the degausiing process should sound like. What part of NJ are you in.


----------



## Phantastica

Does anyone have a definitive list of how the XBR960 handles various HDTV resolutions?


It obviously displays 1080i natively and I believe it scales 720p to 1080i, but how does it handle 480p and 520p? Does the set ever display these as true progressive images, or do they all end up as 1080i?


----------



## Bombs

480p is displayed as 480p.


----------



## snclawson

Woohoo!


My XBR960 was supposed to come in this Thursday, but it showed up at the store today! Which is perfect, since it's my birthday today! (and I had to take the 32HS420 back on Sunday).


Sweet. =) I'll give an update later after I've been able to play with it for a bit.


----------



## triplex

When watching standard definition TV in regular format (with black sides) the left edge seems a little wavy on the top and bottom. Does anyone else see this. The funny thing is when watching HDTV the borders look perfect.


----------



## snclawson

Well, my first impressions (other than the `auto program' setup takes _FOREVER_...the 50+ minutes that it said it would take was pretty accurate), is that HD looks great. So great that I'm watching the Democratic National Convention on HDNet and enjoying it. =) SD looks completely awful! I haven't messed with any of the DRC settings though. I don't remember the TV in the store looking so bad on SD.


I also had a problem getting audio when I hooked up the DVI-HDMI cable and the separate audio cable. I'd hooked up the 32HS420 previously and didn't get sound, but thought that the TV was just havng problems, but I had the same problem with the 960. By accident I noticed that by jiggling the DVI-HDMI cable, I could get sound. After maybe 10 minutes of messing with it I was finally able to get the cable in an orientation where it works after I let go of it. =)


Has anyone else had this problem? I think that I may just have a bad cable, although I can't understand what a problem with the HDMI connection would cause the TV not to use the alternate audio inputs...the video never has any problems at all. Bizzare. I did notice that the connection seemed very `loose' though. There's not much for it to `hold on to'. =(


----------



## BloatedCorpse

..snclawson, can you switch your sat box or cable box so that it outputs 480p? I found that the SD improved dramatically when I changed this on my motorola 6208 cable box. The DRC causes too many artifacts in my opinion and should be avoided if at all possible for SD viewing. Oddly enough, a lot of my XBOX games work the opposite way. They actually look better if I let the 960 upconvert to 960i rather than display 480p. The jaggies are smoothed out and they just look put together a little better, even at the expense of some detail.


----------



## snclawson

All my satellite comes from a Dish Network 811, which is converting everything to 1080i and that looks good. Better than I remember it looking on the HS420 actually.


I'm talking about SD with the internal Cable tuner. That looks awful with the default DRC settings. I'm watching the Simpsons off of DVD in 480p and it looks great. I'm watching in Normal mode and the left and right edges are straight enough, much better than the one in the store. I'll have to try 480i (and the Xbox...can't wait to see how that looks!), but I'll have to wait until the Fiance goes to sleep. I'll also pop in the DVE and do some simple tweaks.


One more thing.


I've got basic Comcast cable here in Salt Lake. My SNR is between 30-32 on the digital channels and my AGC is 23-26. OTA I'm not getting so well. On one channel with 80% or so signal strength, my SNR is about 24, AGC 18.


----------



## rameade3

Well, my XBR960 was delivered this afternoon by CC. Also, my HD DirecTiVo DVR that I ordered on-line from CC was delivered this morning. After spending the afternoon hooking both to my Yamaha V2400 A/V receiver, Pioneer DVR-510H DVD recorder, and Pioneer 563A DVD player, I sat down to enjoy Stargate: Atlantis. Earlier this afternoon I had encountered some frustration trying to coordinate the A/V receiver and television remotes to show the various sources on screen. It seems there is a degree of interdependency that I'm going to have to resolve, maybe by getting a universal remote.


At this point, SD programs look very close to what I was seeing on my Sony XBR100 and Hughes D ** SD receiver before, if a little softer.


After about four hours of on time, I had just loaded up my Digital Video Essentials calibration disc, when the television image started to blink off and on momentarily. It's a sporadic blinking, like the power is being interrupted. There's also a soft, cracking sound when it blinks like that. I haven't figured out what's causing this, and it just started after about three hours of operation. Anyway, I'm calling CC tomorrow morning to request a replacement. NTS, I'm apprehensive about what the local stock is, and how long it'll take for a replacement.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by snclawson_
> *Well, my first impressions (other than the `auto program' setup takes _FOREVER_...the 50+ minutes that it said it would take was pretty accurate), is that HD looks great. So great that I'm watching the Democratic National Convention on HDNet and enjoying it. =) SD looks completely awful! I haven't messed with any of the DRC settings though. I don't remember the TV in the store looking so bad on SD.
> 
> 
> I also had a problem getting audio when I hooked up the DVI-HDMI cable and the separate audio cable. I'd hooked up the 32HS420 previously and didn't get sound, but thought that the TV was just havng problems, but I had the same problem with the 960. By accident I noticed that by jiggling the DVI-HDMI cable, I could get sound. After maybe 10 minutes of messing with it I was finally able to get the cable in an orientation where it works after I let go of it. =)
> 
> 
> Has anyone else had this problem? I think that I may just have a bad cable, although I can't understand what a problem with the HDMI connection would cause the TV not to use the alternate audio inputs...the video never has any problems at all. Bizzare. I did notice that the connection seemed very `loose' though. There's not much for it to `hold on to'. =(*



OK...this is really interesting.


I called today and between my geometry issues and not having audio on the HDMI input, they are scheduling to send me out another TV, lol.


Now you have me wondering if I can giggle the connection (thought I had plugged it in and out enough), but YES...I have no audio on Input 7....so I thought there was another audio issue.


I am out of town but will try playing around with it when I return on Wed.


I will tell you that the "board holding the connector" behind the casing seem to have more play with the audio connectors than I would like to see, so I thought that might be it.


I am now wondering if this is flaw in several of these in the line, or if this is just a loose connector as you say.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by snclawson_
> *One more thing.
> 
> 
> I've got basic Comcast cable here in Salt Lake. My SNR is between 30-32 on the digital channels and my AGC is 23-26. OTA I'm not getting so well. On one channel with 80% or so signal strength, my SNR is about 24, AGC 18.*



Do you have HDTV channels loosing it with a S/N of 30-32?


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by rameade3_
> *Anyway, I'm calling CC tomorrow morning to request a replacement. NTS, I'm apprehensive about what the local stock is, and how long it'll take for a replacement.*



I can tell you that after talking to the tweeter repair people in florida, they say they have 40 in stock and another 50 coming in next week - so I doubt you should have replacement issues virtually anywhere in america at this time.


But again, this is why I do recommend working the local angle instead of mail order.


I would suggest you getting the best price online and work in shipping etc.


Then go to some local retailers with the info with you, speak to the manager and tell them you don't need it for 2 weeks anyway so you don't care if you buy it locally or crosscountry. Tell them you are buying from someone today and ask what's the best he can do to coming close to it. Don't seem desperate to buy from them and just act like you can take it or go elsewhere....you don't care.


I would also suggest you look at the extended warranty and offer to buy that to prompt them to cut the price. Why? The extended warranty usually allows 1 adjustment a year - and since it can be a bear if the magnets need to be reset on the cathode ray, I consider it well worth it. Also covers electrical surges, lighting hits etc. AND COMPARE THAT PRICE. CC was close to $400 while Tweeter was $200. $40 a year...try and get a serviceman out to adjust the tv each year for that.


My 2cents worth.


As you are seeing problems crop up in several posts, I REALLY believe local is the way to go.


----------



## snclawson




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by HDTVFanAtic_
> *Do you have HDTV channels loosing it with a S/N of 30-32?*



Not that I've noticed. I watched the extreme home makeover show and didn't notice any problems.


Actually, that does remind me of the other weird thing that other people have mentioned. The local digital channels over cable don't have their channel numbers re-mapped, making it a bit of a pain to get at them. I figure that I'll eventually remember them though, since at least I don't have to worry about getting the TV antanna oriented just right.


----------



## MoneyMINTR

Wow!


I love HDTV on the XBR960. INHD channels are picture perfect. Haven't hooked up a DVD player yet. My set seems to be perfect so far except for some geometry issues and the degaussing screen flicker on the lower right side of the screen. Lasts less than a second. I'm going to stop by the local CC and turn their set on and off a couple of times.



BTW, does anyone have comcast in NJ? What channel is Discovery HD.


So far the auto programming found the following,

HBOHD

ESPNHD

ABC, CBS, NBC, FOX, THIRTEEN, PBSKIDS

INHD, INHD2


Am I missing anything?


----------



## RJB in Phila




> Quote:
> Mine seems to have a "snap, crackle, and pop" sound with momentary flickering (arcs of light) during the initial turn on. Is this normal?



Yes, that seems to describe the way mine turns on, but it only takes about 5 seconds, not 10-15.


----------



## cad_3




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by NathanNC_
> *Since so many people have recommended CC over other stores, because of their return policy, I was wondering if these people were aware of this restocking fee policy. Is anyone aware of another store that has a more lenient return policy? If I'm going to pay MSRP for the XBR960, I'd like to deal with a more accommodating store. Otherwise, I'd like to save a few hundred dollars and deal with with another store that has a similar return policy.
> *



Well, it wouldn't be me. I dislike CC. I phone in and talked w/ a manager. When I got there, the manager threw some flunkie at me and had him write up my order. But I had gotten the manager to agree to 10% off the TV. Well, the flunkie refused, so I told him to talk to the manager. I should mention that this manager was #2 at the store. The flunkie went and talked w/ the Store owner, who said "no." My thought is, if Mr. #2 cannot make a deal or negotiate (sp?) price then fire his a$$. I thought it was supremely unprofessional, and I avoid dealing w/ this CC at all cost.


This isn't to say all CC's are like this, just this one. There is one about 30-35 miles from me that is incredible! Extremely helpful, extremely knowledgeable, and they will go out of their way to make the customer happy. Unfortunately, for every one of those, there are 5 that don't care, don't want to care, and figure that they get enough other business that everyone can F off...










If I had another available option, I'd go somewhere else...


but that's just me.


----------



## Tigerriot

What the hell is wrong with these sets? What the hell is wrong with Sony's QA [email protected]!?!


I just ordered one of these from a local store and expect to take delivery next week. I'm really pondering cancelling the order now and waiting a while before I purchase again. The scary part is these complaints in this thread only represent a tiny portion of the XBR960's being sold around the country. It's almost scary to imagine how many of these sets are having problems right now.


I already own an XBR910 and it was nearly flawless. I wonder what the hell happened to this year's model.


----------



## cad_3




> Quote:
> degauss_Originally posted by BTV Mark_
> *It's hard to describe the sound. (Anyone else able to help?)
> *



I'd say it's kinda like the sound a spring would make from an old Tom & Jerry Cartoon.


"Doyoyoyoying".... without the all the extra "yoyoyoyo" But a little deeper. As for seeing the effect in action, check your monitor for your computer (assuming it's "old school"). Most of them have a button to degauss, and those that don't have the button, usually do it when you turn it on from a cold start.


I'd want more info as to what exactly you see, and what it sounds like. The snap, crackle and pop, might just be a static discharge. Does it sound kinda like when you where a kid and would run your finger around the edge of the tv and hear a little static discharge (snap, crackle and popping)?


----------



## RJB in Phila




> Quote:
> What the hell is wrong with these sets? What the hell is wrong with Sony's QA [email protected]!?!



I don't want to give the impression that I'm unhappy with my 960. It's true the first one had a problem with the tuner, but the second one is working fine and I'm glad I bought it. The picture quality and the menus are great. DVD's and HDTV look fantastic, and even SD TV looks fine once you put it on Pro and adjust it a little bit.


The process of turning on doesn't bother me at all. It takes 5 secconds and makes a little sound, but it's not bothersome or abnormal, I don't think.


Overall, I still love it.


----------



## cajieboy

Those startup sounds are completely normal for the large tube Sonys. The TV is going through its degaussing routine. For an even better job, unplug the TV from the Main for about an hour, replug & push on. BTW, if you want to ever move your TV, even a little, you should unplug and wait awhile before doing it. Otherwise, you could end up w/the "greenies".


----------



## MoneyMINTR

yea, I'm pretty sure it's normal too. I have an old XBR1 32inch that does the same thing. Those flashes are most likely due to static as the tv is in the basement.


----------



## CPanther95

This damn TV better be worth it....................


Ordered the TV on Sat. Got an est. ship date of 7/30. Then noticed the rebate (forgot about it). Right before I ordered the Home Theater in a Box, I noticed on the $400 rebate form that both items must be on the same invoice. Sony's website will not allow modifications to an existing order, so I called and after 45 min. to get through, I was told that the CSR can not add to the order either.


Had to cancel the TV and re-place the order with both items. HT in a Box shipped right out, but TV date was unknown (out of Stock). Yesterday the TV must have been ready because they charged my card - except the "security measures" of my CC company declined the charge until they could verify it was legit. I told them that I placed the order and they said OK, have them resubmit the charge and it will go through.


Unfortunately, Sony cancelled the 960 after the charge was declined. After 45 min, I got a CSR that told me they cannot reopen the order once it was cancelled. So now I have the HT in a Box on the way that I have to refuse shipment on - and place the order for both items again. Arrrrrrrrrgh


EDIT - CRAP...new est. delivery 8/11


----------



## dizzyfaust

could be worse...i have a stand and no tv.


thats really messing with my focus on other things in life. i think its taunting me...well as long as i get it in time for the olympics


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

Hope when you GET your set... It works.... My 3rd one is being delivered on sat.


----------



## CPanther95

My "stand" is a 42" tall (24" x 48") metal table that will be covered with black felt or some other material. This will clear the foot board of my sleigh bed and put the TV right at the base of my bed.


----------



## archiguy

Anyone try recording HD from the ATSC tuner via firewire to a D-VHS tape deck yet?


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by archiguy_
> *Anyone try recording HD from the ATSC tuner via firewire to a D-VHS tape deck yet?*



Sorta. I tried recording from the cable box in to YPbPr and out to DVHS...couldnt get it to work but its been the least of my issues at this point.


Manual says it should work, but then again in another section it says you cannot record anything hooked to YPbPr input...but I think that is speaking of downconverting to 480....but maybe its talking about ANY YPbPr input.


I intend to play around with it more when I get the other parts working....like audio on Input 7


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by MoneyMINTR_
> *Wow!
> 
> 
> I love HDTV on the XBR960. INHD channels are picture perfect. Haven't hooked up a DVD player yet. My set seems to be perfect so far except for some geometry issues and the degaussing screen flicker on the lower right side of the screen. Lasts less than a second. I'm going to stop by the local CC and turn their set on and off a couple of times.
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, does anyone have comcast in NJ? What channel is Discovery HD.
> 
> 
> So far the auto programming found the following,
> 
> HBOHD
> 
> ESPNHD
> 
> ABC, CBS, NBC, FOX, THIRTEEN, PBSKIDS
> 
> INHD, INHD2
> 
> 
> Am I missing anything?*




Do you have a cablecard installed?


If not, you won't be getting those premium services in the clear for long.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by snclawson_
> *
> 
> I also had a problem getting audio when I hooked up the DVI-HDMI cable and the separate audio cable. I'd hooked up the 32HS420 previously and didn't get sound, but thought that the TV was just havng problems, but I had the same problem with the 960. By accident I noticed that by jiggling the DVI-HDMI cable, I could get sound. After maybe 10 minutes of messing with it I was finally able to get the cable in an orientation where it works after I let go of it. =)
> 
> 
> Has anyone else had this problem? I think that I may just have a bad cable, although I can't understand what a problem with the HDMI connection would cause the TV not to use the alternate audio inputs...the video never has any problems at all. Bizzare. I did notice that the connection seemed very `loose' though. There's not much for it to `hold on to'. =(*



Do you get audio when the HDMI is not plugged in and the seperate audio cables are? I cannot wiggle my HDMI in any place that sound is ever passed through the set.


It doesn't work even if there is no HDMI cable plugged in either.


Just curious at this point.


----------



## MoneyMINTR




> Quote:
> Do you have a cablecard installed?



Nope, no cablecard installed. What channel is 86.71?


-MM


----------



## gundyrat1

what kind of geometry problems are people having?

Because I felt noticed that it wasn't as square to the bottom as it should be.

But there are controls that fixed this plus bars for aligment ,tilt, etc: pretty much every control that is on my PC monitor is also on the 960 for squaring up the image ?


----------



## BloatedCorpse

..I don't really think there are any control of the horizontal effect for the geometry. I've heard magnets may work. I'm just starting to accept that my bottom right corner is upturned to a fair degree.


----------



## spongebob




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by rameade3_
> *Well, my XBR960 was delivered this afternoon by CC. Also, my HD DirecTiVo DVR that I ordered on-line from CC was delivered this morning. After spending the afternoon hooking both to my Yamaha V2400 A/V receiver, Pioneer DVR-510H DVD recorder, and Pioneer 563A DVD player, I sat down to enjoy Stargate: Atlantis. Earlier this afternoon I had encountered some frustration trying to coordinate the A/V receiver and television remotes to show the various sources on screen. It seems there is a degree of interdependency that I'm going to have to resolve, maybe by getting a universal remote.
> 
> 
> At this point, SD programs look very close to what I was seeing on my Sony XBR100 and Hughes D ** SD receiver before, if a little softer.
> 
> *



Do you really have a KV-32XBR100? That's my set, and still the holy grail of analog sets. The reason I don't have a 960 is that analog and SD that I've seen in the store are a joke compared to my set!


bob


----------



## snclawson




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by HDTVFanAtic_
> *Do you get audio when the HDMI is not plugged in and the seperate audio cables are? I cannot wiggle my HDMI in any place that sound is ever passed through the set.
> 
> 
> It doesn't work even if there is no HDMI cable plugged in either.
> 
> 
> Just curious at this point.*



No, I don't. It only works if the cable is plugged in `just so'. It's the most bizzare thing. Since HDMI carries audio also, I wonder if the TV is getting confused as to which to use? Assuming that the TV noticed that it was talking to a legacy DVI device, it shoudn't be though. =(


I do remember getting sound without the cable hooked up on the 32HS420, but that was before I had the DVI-HDMI cable. After that I never did get sound, with or without the cable.


----------



## ghostrider1

I finally purchased my 960. It will be delivered tomorrow. What kind of cables are you guys using to connect to cable(hdtv)? These guys were pushing Monster cables.


Thanks


----------



## dizzyfaust

i just went with monster because thats all i found on amazon. cc and gg near me failed to have a single dvd player with dvi/hdmi...so i had to get the zenith online.


pathetic. btw gg had the 960 "on sale as advertised" for....

$2199


----------



## Phantastica




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by HDTVFanAtic_
> *Do you get audio when the HDMI is not plugged in and the seperate audio cables are? I cannot wiggle my HDMI in any place that sound is ever passed through the set.
> 
> 
> It doesn't work even if there is no HDMI cable plugged in either.
> 
> 
> Just curious at this point.*



I've been able to use the HDMI port with DVI video and analogue (rca) audio from both my Motorola 6200 cable box and from my computer without any problems. The audio comes through the from the rca inputs fine.


----------



## eblue




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by HDTVFanAtic_
> *Do you have a cablecard installed?
> 
> 
> If not, you won't be getting those premium services in the clear for long.*



i tried the cc and it gave me less hdtv channels than mot 6200 stb. the signal seems better on that since i'm using dvi-hdmi ($30 from pccables.com).are you referring to comcast?


i have 4 tv connection in my house and i have not yet used an amplifier (comcast will come on monday to check). tried a splitter set up using monster 2ghz to split incoming signal to 960 to both stb and cc and stb seemed to have better picture.


do i have to tune all sources with dve (5,6 and 7?)i guess i do.


----------



## snclawson




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Phantastica_
> *I've been able to use the HDM port with DVI video and analogue (rca) audio from both my Motorola 6200 cable box and from my computer without any problems. The audio comes through the from the rca inputs fine.*



Hmm...maybe I will call Sony about getting this fixed then. I would take the TV back to Circuit City for a replacement, but from what I can tell they're all sold out here (it showed up as available for delivery for about a day last week).


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

Thats what I did.. Saturday will be my 3rd tv set.... wish me luck... you know what they say.. 3rd time is a charm!!!!


----------



## jedi29

Hey JB ,

I`ll keep my fingers crossed for ya` , best of luck !

You know they say that the 3rd time is the charmer !!

(If not call Sony , those guy`s need to know what happening to this set. )

O-BTW , I just thought of something, it may or may not help , but, the Cable Card needs to be addressed IN THE TV ----NOT by the cable co.

Sad part is that most cable co`s are milking this for all it`s worth and some are chargeing as much as 60 bucks to put it in and activate it.

It tells you what to do the in manual, but if you have a cable co like Adelphia , they won`t let you install it yourself







.

Reason --->" These cards are very expensive and if you broke it you would have to pay for it" Ya right , so maybe they cost a few bucks , but how can a normal person "break" one , if they just follow the installation instructions that came with the set.

The TV must initialize the card or it won`t work right, if what I read was true.

They would much rather you rent a box
















Gary


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by JamisonBWolsh_
> *Thats what I did.. Saturday will be my 3rd tv set.... wish me luck... you know what they say.. 3rd time is a charm!!!!*



My third set (first on 910) arrives on tuesday as well.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by snclawson_
> *No, I don't. It only works if the cable is plugged in `just so'. It's the most bizzare thing. Since HDMI carries audio also, I wonder if the TV is getting confused as to which to use? Assuming that the TV noticed that it was talking to a legacy DVI device, it shoudn't be though. =(
> 
> 
> I do remember getting sound without the cable hooked up on the 32HS420, but that was before I had the DVI-HDMI cable. After that I never did get sound, with or without the cable.*



My 960 serial number is 8002496. What is yours? I am curious if the audio issue is in a certain run of the sets or if its just random all over.


----------



## bada

As we know, people with sets free of problems are not writing posts, but instead watching their new TVs in peace. I wonder though what the percentage is of defective sets?


Seems like a lot of sets out there being returned. Are you guys with lemons only 1% of the total market, or are we going to look back a year from now to the summer that Sony released the infamous 960 riddled with problems...


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by bada_
> *As we know, people with sets free of problems are not writing posts, but instead watching their new TVs in peace. I wonder though what the percentage is of defective sets?
> 
> 
> Seems like a lot of sets out there being returned. Are you guys with lemons only 1% of the total market, or are we going to look back a year from now to the summer that Sony released the infamous 960 riddled with problems...*



You might not agree with this, but I will stand by it.


A large number of people who purchase this or any other HD set don't know if it's defective or not.


Most STB's have their DVI output disabled. Or they might use a cablecard. That means the most would never know the audio input on #7 has an issue.


The picture, even when misadjusted and with geometry problems, probably looks so much better than their SD set, they sit there amazed at the quality of their defective set.


I had people over for the Stanley Cups Playoffs in town that raved and raved about the picture on my defective set.


So, the real question is how do you know what the real defect rate is?


----------



## bada

Oh I completely agree with you. If people dont look for geometry problems etc, they will never know whether they have them or not etc.


Myself and 2 others have decided to go down to the US from Canada to get this set with the 5 year extended international warranty(assuming the details we find out about the warranty make us happy).


I think we will be checking these sets out very throughly. What would be a list of things to check for beside geometry issues and tuner.


----------



## MikeinSyracuse




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by JamisonBWolsh_
> *Thats what I did.. Saturday will be my 3rd tv set.... wish me luck... you know what they say.. 3rd time is a charm!!!!*



What's really disturbing is that you're taking delivery on your 3rd set while I'm still waiting for my first


----------



## dizzyfaust

my set is arriving on the 3rd. i decided to get it through sonystyle to avoid extra handling.


ive had items delivered by nvc before and they seem top notch.


maybe ive been lucky, but ive rarely had problems with electronics. if its defective, it goes back. not a big deal, its only a tv and there are plenty of other things in life to raise my blood pressure.


imo im not seeing a lot of complaints yet. seeing as how the warehouse was on backorder the number of issues seems normal. as more sets get out into the general populace then the issue of quality will become readily apparent.


as far as unsophisticated users not being able to identify a problem, well ignorance is bliss







im doing a lot of reading, and i certainly would fall into category of viewer mentioned by hdtvfan (i.e. not knowing what to look for) being a type b is a good thing, but having a resource like avs forums is a better thing.


thanks to avs ive ordered voom and am eagerly awaiting the set







chances are it will power up.


----------



## Bombs

My question for y'all:


Are there XBR960's out there without the geometry problems, or are they just a fact of life with this set.


My set has slight upturns in the lower corners. I only notice it when I am watching a channel with a scrolling bar, such as CNN or ESPN2.


Should I return this and hope for a set without the geometry problems, or is that impossible to find? Should I just live with it?


----------



## BloatedCorpse

..after three returned 34hs510's, I'd live with it if you can bombs. I had a tech come out and adjust my 960 with marginal success as far as geometry goes. Do I want it to be better...absolutely, but at this point, I've pretty much conceded that with a widescreen crt from sony, it will never be able to display a perfect or even close to perfect cross hatch pattern. I've instead focused on the more positive aspects of the 960, the awesome HD colors and detail. I've been overly anal with my tv's since I first got my first 510 in dec '03..it's to the point my wife has calmly told me that she no longer wishes to discuss or hear about the tv picture quality flaws...and I hate to say it, but she's right. There comes a point where one should relax and enjoy the content that the tv was purchased for, instead of scrutinizing the screen for small display variances. I know others will disagree with these comments, and a few days ago I would have disagreed, but I've come to realize that my expectations for this tv were just not realistic. Happy Viewing.

BC


----------



## dizzyfaust

bloated didnt yours have a major upturn ? maybe a minor one can be fixed with calibration ?


i also intend to do my calibration after the wife goes to sleep, and drink plenty of coffee in the am....


----------



## snclawson




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by HDTVFanAtic_
> *My 960 serial number is 8002496. What is yours? I am curious if the audio issue is in a certain run of the sets or if its just random all over.*



Mine's 800353X. That's quite a few apart. The HS420 had the same problem though...I wonder if Sony just botched the HDMI connector board on this year's sets.



steve


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by snclawson_
> *Mine's 800353X. That's quite a few apart. The HS420 had the same problem though...I wonder if Sony just botched the HDMI connector board on this year's sets.
> 
> 
> 
> steve*



that wasn't the answer I was looking for


----------



## liu

newbie question -

The one HD station I am picking up from the TV has about 1-2 inch black bar on each side. The SD channels are in full screen.


If I switch the HD channel to zoom if fills the screen but crops the top.


----------



## dizzyfaust

look for a sticky in prog/recept.


other than that i wish i had more help for you....


----------



## bada

Anyone in here wishing they just got the 910 last year?


----------



## MoneyMINTR

Heck no. I heard about the 960 when I was about to shell out more money for the 34XBR910. I paid substantially less for the 960 with built in HDTV tuner. Aside from some geometry problems, mine is perfect. Would you have noticed the geometry problems if you didn't have that DVE disc?


----------



## liu

Ok now that I read some of the post and looked at the corner of screen on the HDTV channel - I can see what everyone is talking about.


Can this be fixed by adjustment? Reminds me of the issues I see on my sony trinitron computer monitor. Like some of earlier posts - I am going to enjoy it. My only concern is what is the long-term affect of not correcting it now. Will it get worse over time.


Marty


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

Well.... My 3rd set arrived and it had the EXACT same problem as my 2nd!!!! ARGH!!!!!! At Cold start up, No hdtv antenna reception and Bad cable reception. I turn the tv off and then on again, then it works. I had a heated discussion with one of the 3 delivery person. Here is his response.


1.) Cable box problem (NOT- how would this cause the problem?)

2.) Cable hookup problem- (NOT- if this is the cause, then it would not work at all..not just at start up)

3.) Antenna problem-(IDIOTS!!!!! it WORKS if I turn the set off and then on again- plus my 1st set did not have this problem.)


The manager of CC delivery company called CC and told them it was the consumers problem!!! Can you believe that? I called the Local CC for a 4th tv set and he said "Are you sure your tv is hooked up to the antenna?" I told him that i live in an apartment complex and he said " Well, apartment buildings does not have antennas." IDIOTS! I told him if he does not believe that I have this problem, come to my apartment in the morning. He refused and gave me 2 options:


1.) Have a tech fix it. (why should I fix a brand new unit?)- Not going to happen!

2.) get a refund.


So I went directly to the local CC. The District manager was there and I explained the situation to him. He agreed with me and said that he would replace it.


"NO WAY!!! Give me my refund and I will get it from another store. Your delivery service hassles me with their ignorance" (one of them is a tech)


The delivery itself did not damage the sets (I watched the unloading and unpacking)


So off to the GoodGuys- Do they use a different delivery service?

.


----------



## Newest Hobby

Jamison,


Sorry to hear about the bad luck. I received my 960 this week and had a couple of problems the first day. It may have been that I didn't know how to properly operate the unit. I am not sure.


I was using componet cables the first couple of days. I then switched to a HDMI to DVI cable to my HD tuner. It has been spectacular since. Yes, the analog programing isn't perfect but I didn't expect it to be. HD is just mind blowing though.


I know you are having bad luck but I think with three tries, something else is not right. The odds are stacked that you would receive three lemons back to back to back. What else could it be? What were you using prior to this Sony?


Either I have great luck or you crossed a black cat, walked under a ladder and broke a mirror all on the same day?


I will go back through this thread and read about your hook-up again..


Good luck..


----------



## MoneyMINTR

I tend to agree. Two bad sets in a row is unlikely. Why not see if the cable company can install a new line?


----------



## dizzyfaust

jamison sorry to hear about your trials with the 960, sometimes it just plays out that way. maybe its just not meant to be...


since this will be my first hd i'm going to keep the set for at least a couple weeks absent any obvious flaws, just to get to know the equipment. i figure it will take at least that long to program and setup .


if you've been going through the same store its possible they have a bad batch, maybe get the credit then order through sonystyle. cut out the middleman...


i do know that there are plenty of places between the wall and the set where stuff can go wrong. i'd check everything







at worst it can make you smarter







or grumpier hehe.


anyway, goodluck


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

It's Not the hook up. Can a Bad hook up create the following behavior?


If the sets has been off for a few hours and I turn it on:


1.) Bad Cable reception (squiggily Lines all over)

2.) No reception from antenna (no hdtv signals)

3.) turn tv off.

4.) Turn tv on

5.) Cable is near perfect (I calibrated this set)

6.) I recieve reception from the antenna. HDTV is a UNBELIEVABLE.

5.)viewing the 960 is the best thing since apple pie.



Thats the problem. Logically speaking, that would eliminate any cable hookups, equipment probs (besides tv) or power problems. Antenna


Cable hookups.

1.) if these were to blame, by turning the set off and then on wont solve the problem.


Equipment probs

1.) same as 1 previous


Power

1.) if the lack of power strentgh is the problem, then the set would not work a 2nd time.


Antenna

1.) I live in an apartment complex that still uses antenna's as well as cable. Sure its an old antenna, but it is BIG. Since I do have reception for HDTV signals when I turn the tv set on again, this would not be the cause.


Let me add to that. I recieved 3 sets.


first set-

BAD curve on the right side of screen (geometric)

This set did not have the problem listed in the 2nd and 3rd set.


2nd set and 3rd set-

problem described at the start.



Can anyone else think of what the problem is? I think , logically speaking, it would be the tuner. I am not technically inclined however, thats what you guys are for!


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

DizzyFaust,


Does GoodGuys use the same delivery services of CC? I would not want to use the same warehouse where I got the 3 sets from... Good guys also offer the 30 day guarentee and the great no payment and 0 percent financing through sony.


----------



## dizzyfaust

let the set run for 10hrs or so before you calibrate. at least thats what i read in a sticky somehwhere. for starters










hopefully you get alan in here.


okay i read your post carefully. seems like most of the set is working correctly and something else isnt. the hdmi/dvi ? i have no clue.


i'd pay for a sony tech to come in, or the cable tech. then try to recoup the cost from sony. not saying thats fair or just, only what i'd do.


gl bro


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

too much trouble. I will get a refund and buy the set from goodguys/magnolia,,,


----------



## Bombs

I'm trying to come to grips with the geometry issue. I really can't notice on a channel with a full picture. It only is noticeable when I am looking for it and there is a ticker tape or line at the bottom.


I do have one question. When I call up my DTV guide, the right side of the screen is a bit blurry. Like it is out of focus. This goes all the way up and down the side, not just in the corners. Does this have anything to do with the geometry issue, or is it a result of the signal sent for the guide?


I am torn about exchanging this TV.


----------



## Bombs

The real question is:


Do people have 960's WITHOUT geometry problems??


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

If your not happy with the set, exchange it (where did you buy it? Was it home delivery?). If its within your 30 days, they wont care if you exchange it. The geometry differs on each set. I had 3 different sets with different geometric problems. The 2nd was the best with hardly any geo. problems. So, it is possible to get a good geo tv set...Just keep in mind that all widescreen tv sets shows the geo problems...


----------



## snclawson




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Bombs_
> *I do have one question. When I call up my DTV guide, the right side of the screen is a bit blurry. Like it is out of focus. This goes all the way up and down the side, not just in the corners. Does this have anything to do with the geometry issue, or is it a result of the signal sent for the guide?
> 
> 
> I am torn about exchanging this TV.*



Funny, mine is blurry all down the left side of the screen. There seems to be some sort of focus problem maybe? I put up some geometry patterns and the horizontal convergence is way off all down the left side. =( Before when I was watching TV, the left side seemed a little weird, but it's not something that you would see easily...there's just not that much `stuff' way off to the side that you're really focusing on. It makes using the TV with a PC a nightmare though. The center is nicely in focus, but the sides aren't.


----------



## Martyboy42

I've been reading all the posts on the 960 because I got a 910 recently and wondered if the new one was all that better. I can tell you my TV has been professionally calibrated, and the picture is incredible in both high def and standard channels. And it aint' just me saying it. I have a feeling the cheaper price and more stuff like their own tuner has lead to lower quality or less careful manufacturing, perhaps, in t he new set. And the tube is the same-- same serial number for replacement. So maybe older is better.


----------



## snclawson

One update about my 960 and audio problems with a DVI-HDMI cable: it seems that the problem is the cable, not the set.


On a lark, I decided to pick up a Monster Cable DVI-HDMI cable from BestBuy and see if it also had the same problem. I hooked it up and it works perfectly. It takes a second or so after hooking it up for the audio to come though, but it does every time. I swapped it out for the old cable and sure enough, the same problem... There must be some sort of handshaking that the cable needs to do with the HDMI port to tell it that there's no audio? Really strange.


So I'll be talking to pccables.com to see if I can get a replacement. =(


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

Im not sure about the 910, but a calibrated 960 looks absolutly STUNNING> This is coming from someone that knows the set. Yes, I went through 3 of them. But once you have one that works (910 has Geo problems as well) you have a GREAT set. If i had a choice between the 910 and the 960. 960 wins. It may not be a VAST improvement, but there is an improvement nonetheless...


Your trying to convince yourself that spending more money on a tv set that is outdated is worth the money. This Tv set REPLACES the 910. In ALL regards, the 960 is an improvement over the 910. From the menu system (more options for us), brightness increase, 2nd generation resolution, and various other smaller improvements (more inputs...No optical input or output on the 910... SO SAD). The 960 is an improvement over the 910. Plain and simple.


Sony does not use cheaper parts JUST because the price tag is lower!!!! Sony has to compete with the marketplace. To survive, they have to lower their prices to relate to market value. Pure Econimics.


----------



## AgWagon

JBW,


I'm a total noob and don't even have this set yet (waiting for delivery) but I've been following your problem for a while. What if the initial turn-on problem was caused by something atmospheric or specific to your home. I'm not talking X-Files or anything but maybe static electricity? Humidity? It could affect the tuner at first but after circuits get power or cables heat up for a sec, a "reset" (turning off then on again) clears the problem. I'm about the opposite of technically-minded so this might be the dumbest thing you've ever heard but I'm just trying to throw out ideas. Saw something earlier in one of these threads about "clean power." Is that a similar concept?


Good luck.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

Im a noob as well. My previous set is 12 years old! You do have agood concept. Wethor or not its true? I dont know. As for the power issue.... I turn it on in the morning when I am not using very much power at all. I dont think it is a power issue. The 1st tv set did not show any symtoms of this. Could be a bad batch?


----------



## Martyboy42

You may be right. The 960 may be lots better, I don't know. I do know that there sure seem to be more complaints about bad sets, bad geometry, bad SD reception, etc. I don't remember all that in the 910 posts, but maybe I'm wrong. And I did read somewhere that if the tube on the 960 breaks, the replacement has the same part number as the 910 tube, which does make me a tad suspicious.


----------



## Tigerriot

I bought an XBR910 last year and I have no doubt there are more problems with these XBR960s. I don't a thread like this one filled with people complaining about the XBR910. Does anyone else?


----------



## dizzyfaust

tiger i have to disagree with you.


after going through the first 20 pages of this thread here's what i found before i got tired:


pgs1-16 anticipation and discussion;

pg 17 bsd107 had no complaints, overall good. convergence needed work maybe;

pg 18 spiffybot the first complaint-hated the universal remote;

pg 19 gundyrat complaint- analog looked terrible (nuff said);

pg 20 pt270 complaint/review mixed, again the analog looked bad (really)...


at that point i got tired. ive kept up with the thread and imo about 6 (six) posters are having persistant problems. hopefully i wont join their ranks.


this thread isnt full of complaints, and while it isnt a thread for the 910, the 910 is close enough in many ways so that 910 users might be of assitance to 960 users.


feel free to do a count for the last 17 pages, most complaints do tend to come in the latter part of a thread. post your results, because so far i see nothiing to suggest the 960 is comparable to the 910.


----------



## michaelggray

After reading all the posts about how bad SD and analog look on the 960 and HD sets in general, I Must admit that I pleasantly surprised by the GOOD picture on the analog channels. I watched the CUP race on TNT and the Drag racing on ESPN last night (both analog channels on my cable system) and keep remarking to myself how good the picture looks. I adjusted the set with DVE and played with the DRC settings so the picture may have not been this good out of the box but looks great right now. BTW, I've had the TV for about ten days now. One note about the picture, I'm currently having trouble getting the cablecard to work properly, so I got the cable company to give me a HD STB (Explorer 3100HD) while they resolve the cable card issue. The picture from the STB is NOT GOOD. Even HBO HD has some amount of noise in the picture. The SD and analog from the STB are worse. The picture using the coax CABLE input on the back of the set: analog channels - great for analog, SD digital channels - cablecard not letting me see them as of yet, PBS-HD and DISC-HD - absolutely stunning. (I'm getting Network HD's and Discovery-HD with the cablecard but no other digital)


----------



## spongebob

Amybody else getting good analog PQ only from the cable input directly into the set (using built in tuner)?


bob


----------



## jedi29

Hi JB,

You have a good one now ?

If so congrats, I have some questions;

1 ) Do you use the CableCard?

2 ) If , not have you tried connecting you cable to the "cable" and not the "uhf-vhf" ?

3 ) Do you get scrambled stations , do you get HD cable (the same that would be free if you were using an ant.? )

Thanks , if I get this or wait for the 30"XS , this info would be helpful









Gary


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

1.) No cable card

2.) Cable is connected to the cable input and my antenna is connecte dto the antenna input.

3.)HDTV through antenna.


and NO, the 3rd tv set did not work correctly. Same problem as #2.. I am going to get a refund and go elsewhere.


----------



## jedi29

Hi JB,

Thanks for the info, for a minute i thought you got a good one.

That`s a real shame , the TV sound like a realy nice set. It could be that you just ended up with a bad batch. I would def, try again.

Like I said , I`m looking at this set , but also wait to see the XS 30" as that would be a better size where it`s going. I think the only dif. between the two is PIP (pop) and Ch. indexing and freeze. It realy is bad for Sony , all yours came from CC right ?

They just came out with it maybe there is a "first batch" glich (lets hope).

Anyway , best of luck , and let us know how you make out , thanks.

Gary


----------



## RJB in Phila




> Quote:
> Amybody else getting good analog PQ only from the cable input directly into the set (using built in tuner)?



I do not have a STB and my SD picture quality from the cable is quite good after adjustment.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by spongebob_
> *Amybody else getting good analog PQ only from the cable input directly into the set (using built in tuner)?
> 
> 
> bob*



yes...or should I say as good as analog quality could be expected to be


----------



## spongebob




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by HDTVFanAtic_
> *yes...or should I say as good as analog quality could be expected to be*




As good as expected to be from a digital set, or as could as it can be as on my KV-32XBR100? (Analog heaven










bob


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Tigerriot_
> *I bought an XBR910 last year and I have no doubt there are more problems with these XBR960s. I don't a thread like this one filled with people complaining about the XBR910. Does anyone else?*



I had a 910 with problems, so I can't say there are more problems on 960.


Not all my issues are resolved so I reserve the right to change my mind


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by snclawson_
> *One update about my 960 and audio problems with a DVI-HDMI cable: it seems that the problem is the cable, not the set.
> 
> 
> On a lark, I decided to pick up a Monster Cable DVI-HDMI cable from BestBuy and see if it also had the same problem. I hooked it up and it works perfectly. It takes a second or so after hooking it up for the audio to come though, but it does every time. I swapped it out for the old cable and sure enough, the same problem... There must be some sort of handshaking that the cable needs to do with the HDMI port to tell it that there's no audio? Really strange.
> *



UGH.....they are scheduled to replace my set at 8am in the morning - long before I can get a new cable.


The difference is, you can get yours to work wiggling the cable - I can't on mine....but its still to strange of a coincidence.


I think I am going to hold off on taking the replacement set and try a new cable.


I do think most of the 910s and 960s have geometry problems.


Unlike others on this thread, knowing this and knowing the set, if I can replace the cable and get that working, I will let them try and eliminate the geometry problems, even sending the set to their pros in Miami if need be - as I am about convinced thats the only way its really going to get the TLC to set it right - especially if it involves moving the magnets. I just don't think they burn them in enough and take the time in the sony plant in San Diego where they assemble these things.


I dont care if I am without it a week if thats what it takes for the best alignment that can be done.


----------



## ghostrider1

My 960 arrived last Saturday. It worked perfectly. The picture is beautiful. The problem I am having is with Time Warner Cable. Most of the time the HD and premium chanels have garbage on the screen. Anyone having problems with their cable company?


----------



## dizzyfaust

got mine too.


its pretty nice. i have a slight bowing in the lower right and thats all i can discern until the avia disk gets here.


vivid is pretty bright, the tuner seems pretty good in that it picked up a lot of stations that ive never received before. waiting on voom and the ups guy.


sound not bad either.


the shipper nvcc delivered the set and box in pristine condition, not a mark on the entire box. even the pointy corners were still pointy. i have no idea how they managed that.


when i commented on the fast setup the guy told me "ive been doing this for a while"


set gave a "boing" noise when it turns on, normal, takes about 10-15 secs to turn on.


this set looks like a keeper so far, then again i have to get the calibration started before i know for sure. local digital looks sweeeeet.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by ghostrider1_
> *My 960 arrived last Saturday. It worked perfectly. The picture is beautiful. The problem I am having is with Time Warner Cable. Most of the time the HD and premium chanels have garbage on the screen. Anyone having problems with their cable company?*



Need more info....Cable Card or what? SA or Motorola?


----------



## rwinkler




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by spongebob_
> *Amybody else getting good analog PQ only from the cable input directly into the set (using built in tuner)?
> 
> 
> bob*



I'm new to this forum, so excuse me if I screw this reply up.


I've had my 960 for several days now and have been very happy with it. This positive comments on this forum was part of the reason I bought it. The nagative comments worried me, but I took a chance anyway. I figured since I bought it locally, I could always return it.


I split the cable before tthe Motorola 6800 STB, and ran it to directly to the 960 coax in. I have COMCAST digital cable, and the TV displays the non-premium channels SDTV very well, and the HDTV channels amazing. I use the 6800 component outputs to the TV for the premium channels and for the TV Guide feature my cable provides. I plan on installing an antenna to the other coax input just for fun, and for backup in case the cable goes out.


At first I thought the STB PQ was worse than the direct cable input, but it turns out that the picture settings were diffferent for each input, and after adjusting them, the PQ is equally good from the STB. I wish I could adjust the audio output level from the STB, since the volume is lower than the direct cable feed.


In summary, I'm very happy with the XBR960. I'm thinking of getting DVE or AVIA to check my calibration and to "play" some more. I think I made the right TV choice, and thanks to all for a great forum to help me with my decision.


----------



## ghostrider1




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by HDTVFanAtic_
> *Need more info....Cable Card or what? SA or Motorola?*



It is a Scientific Atlanta Explorer 3250HD box hooked up via YPbPr connectors. Someone suggested I ask for an amplifier. The cable company is coming to take a look later this week.


----------



## eganders

In response to some queries, I think the the second or two it takes for the audio to come on with an analog audio feed is documented in the manual. The set checks the digital feed first, then switches to analog if it's not there.


I've got mine setup with the following inputs at the moment:

1. Regular UHF antenna (in the San Diego market all the DTV channels are UHF).


2. Cable feed (not yet HDTV) which I further split - one to the cable input on the TV, and the second to the cable box from which I use S-Video and stereo outs back to the TV.


3. YPbPr inputs from the Sony DVD HT system received with the set.


For audio, I come out of the TV with both analog stereo cables and the digital out to the Sony DAV FR9 HT system purchased with the TV.


First off I'd say that the set is a winner. If nothing else, it's a great TV.


The picture is amazing coming off the UHF antenna on HDTV signals. The level of detail and clarity is outstanding. One minor thing I've noticed switching between digital and analog signals. When there is a scene with a fair degree of luminance (brightness & contrast?) variance within the scene, the dark areas are often too dark to see on the digital image, but not on the analog. If I could bring up the dark end a bit without brightening up the whole screen (which can make the entire image too bright) that would help.


On regular 480P DTV signals vs. analog - they're just a bit different, but both look pretty good. The audio is cleaner on the digital signal - maybe more dynamic range as well. I only rarely get signal dropouts / pixelation.


When fed from the cable signal though the splitter direct to the TV, the analog signal isn't too bad either, but not quite as good as the antenna. It's a bit more "blobby". The feed off the splitter to the cable box - then back to the set though the S-Video cable it's even a bit more blobby, but for the most part it's certainly viewable.


Regardless of the input, there are occasional shows fed through one of the paths that are noticeably tougher to watch, but they are always more obscure and it seems like someone probably just blew it when recording the show.


I'm getting a cablecard installed next week so I'll make some longer term antenna decisions then after viewing the results.


----------



## eganders

When I first turn on the KD-34XBR960 and it's cold, it won't immediately tune digital channels - though it does fine with analog. Within a minute or two, or if the set's already warm, it's fine. Does anyone else have this issue?


----------



## spider4re

souds like the problem JamisonBWolsh had. He sent his back for a new one.


----------



## cad_3




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by bada_
> *As we know, people with sets free of problems are not writing posts, but instead watching their new TVs in peace. I wonder though what the percentage is of defective sets?
> 
> 
> Seems like a lot of sets out there being returned. Are you guys with lemons only 1% of the total market, or are we going to look back a year from now to the summer that Sony released the infamous 960 riddled with problems...*



Well, as someone with a relatively problem free set, I guess I should speak up. As it were, I wrote something like this a while back, but do to a crappy browser, my session 'timed out', and w/o the cookies in place to save what I wrote it was all lost... needless to say, I didn't feel like trying to re-create my 1/2 hour or so of typing, so a shortened and condensed version of before.


As you may know, I bought from CC (hate the local one, they don't honor their own stuff a majority of the time and are jerks to boot--however, I love the one in SR, so I order through them and then have it shipped here to this one).


I left my tv on 24/7 (for burn in) until I left for a week. When I got back, I turned it back on again for another 36 hours straight, and at that point, had the 100+ hours necessary to have it calibrated.


Now, I'd just taken my HTiB out (an Onkyo set, that I must say I love), and connected the DVD player up that day, so I had not adjusted any of the settings. The ISF guy came out, modified my settings and with his first two changes, gave me about 40% more resolution.


Then he went through the long process of adjusting the set through the service menu, saving his changes along the way. My good set became a great set, and then finally an exceptional set. It was so completely worth it. He realigned the guns (as best he could from the service menu), made the blacks true, and the picture is the best I've ever seen. I've been re-watching movies on this new tv and seeing things I couldn't see on my old tv (granted my old tv is 10years old and only about 21")...


So... To all the people wondering if there are any good sets out there... Yeah, I've got one. I love it. I don't mind the SD content, because I'm the ultimate channel surfer, and now w/ PBP (Picture by Picture), I can watch one show, and as soon as it hits commercial, flick the knob to the right and either surf or watch that channel, and then go back as soon as the commercial is over.


If you have any questions, feel free to ask away.

Cheers,

-C


----------



## cad_3




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by JamisonBWolsh_
> *Im a noob as well. My previous set is 12 years old! You do have agood concept. Wethor or not its true? I dont know. As for the power issue.... I turn it on in the morning when I am not using very much power at all. I dont think it is a power issue. The 1st tv set did not show any symtoms of this. Could be a bad batch?*



Yeah, I going to ask if your sets always degaussed (sp?) every time. If you turned it on, and it didn't degauss and you had problems, but when you cycle it, it does degauss and the problems went away, that 'MIGHT' be an explaination of it.


The other basic questions I'd ask would be what other power sources, wiring, cables, etc. etc. things that have metal, things that have electricity, etc. etc. are near (within 5 or 10 feet) of your tv?


Where there any time differences (eg, it only took 2 seconds to warm up the first power on, but it took 10 seconds with the cycled power on?)


Total and complete shot in the dark, but who knows?!


Best of luck to you,

-C


----------



## triplex

cad 3,


Did you have any geometry problems before getting the set calibrated, such as the vertical borders being bowed or wavy when watching standard definition channels with black borders on the side. Did calibration fix it?


----------



## bada

Is it bad for the set to calibrate before the 100 hrs, or just a waste of time since you would have to calibrate again after the 100 hour mark?


I cant see myself waiting 100 hrs before I start playing with everything


----------



## Phantastica




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by cad_3_
> *Now, I'd just taken my HTiB out (an Onkyo set, that I must say I love), and connected the DVD player up that day, so I had not adjusted any of the settings. The ISF guy came out, modified my settings and with his first two changes, gave me about 40% more resolution.
> 
> *



How did he give you 40% more resolution?


----------



## cad_3




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by triplex_
> *cad 3,
> 
> 
> Did you have any geometry problems before getting the set calibrated, such as the vertical borders being bowed or wavy when watching standard definition channels with black borders on the side. Did calibration fix it?*



Not really... but I'd follow with ignorance is bliss... I didn't really know what to look for. Then it was pointed out to me by the ISF guy... and it was kinda minor. He did his best given that he can't really tweak horizontal controls... and adjusting something somewhere seems to kinda mess with something on the other side... so after a while, we kinda just settled on the middle being as close to perfect as possible, with an even offset on the edges. My only real issue is at the corners, and it's really small, you have to look pretty hard and be fairly close.


His calibration took about 1 1/2 hours or so and totally worth the $325 to me. I probably could have done what he did, but it would have taken me weeks to figure it all out, and spending 100s of hours trying to get it to his level just wasn't worth it to me. I'm really happy with his work.


Sorry to be so long winded. To answer your question, I might have had very minor geometry problems, and I still think I have some even less minor problems after his fixes. I sit back some 7-8 feet though, and I don't really seem them.


----------



## cad_3




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Phantastica_
> *How did he give you 40% more resolution?*












You notice how I didn't really go into detail? Yeah, that was me trying to avoid the "I was a total and complete idiot"...










I only had RCA cables, so I used my composite connection instead of my component connections... He hooked up the component on Video 5, Big improvement.


Secondly, I had not adjusted the DVD player to play in 16:9... so it was playing my widescreen dvd's as if it were a 4:3. Second huge improvement.


Now that we've established I'm a complete n00b and didn't know what the heck I was doing...









Any other questions I can try and answer?


----------



## jedi29

Hi cad_3,

Can you tell me more









Did the ISF tech use an optical compariter ?

Was the price for ALL the inputs?

Did he use an "input generator" or a DVD to do the calibration?

"Can`t do much with the horizontal problems" could you please clarify ?

Sorry to be a pest







, But I`m looking at that set as well as the up-comming XS series and also thinking about the HS 30" .

It real is toooo BAD that Sony didn`t make a 30" XBR 960 . O-Well.

Hey!! Thanks for your help , and Congrats on getting a good (now great) 960 !!

Gary


----------



## bada

I could be wrong but I have a feeling you would have to sit 3 feet away max from a 30 set with this res to benefit


----------



## dizzyfaust

it always takes a few seconds for the digital signal to be received, so thats normal.


as for a "30...bigger, not smaller. say it, bigger not smaller










the 960 is a great set, especially once you get used to the degauss.


----------



## jedi29

Hi Guys,

So ya` think a 30" set would be too small ?

I think about that too, but also I think about watching DVD`s and wouldn`t be about the same on a 30" as it would on a 4 X 3 --32" ?

Anyway , I always value the input you folks give !!










But , if I got the 960 , I might have to modify a few things thats why I`m think`n 30" !

Gary


----------



## bada

If you were to watch 16:9 material on a 40" TV it would be about 36.5" diagonal.


Get the 34". Alter your space to accomodate it. You will regret it if you dont.

To benefit from the 960's resolution you would have to sit way closer than you will be to appreciate it.


----------



## jedi29

Hi bada,

Good point ^

I guess it looks like I`ll have a while to think about it , doesn`t look like Sony is rushing to bring out the XS series and I realy want to have a look at them before I completly lose my mind ! LOL









Gary


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

OK....the analog audio issue from through Input 7 (HDMI) is quasi solved. At this point, I believe its an issue with the other component and its DVI output putting something out that the Sony doesn't like. Thus the Sony thinks its getting digital audio from the HDMI input and not switching to analog. I can plug my DVI connector into the SA3250HD STB and it does run the analog audio.


So at this point, I am looking at the other equipment on this part of the puzzle.


However, this does concern me as there is no way to force the analog audio....and no telling what other DVI outputs will have the same issue.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by ghostrider1_
> *It is a Scientific Atlanta Explorer 3250HD box hooked up via YPbPr connectors. Someone suggested I ask for an amplifier. The cable company is coming to take a look later this week.*



Well, that would most likely be the STB. I expected you were talking about the set's own tuner, but that's not the case.


Did your old set have the problem?


Most likely its a signal problem which either balancing the lines to your house or an amp will help.


Use the diagnostic screens on the SA3250HD to check the signal and S/N on your HDTV channels and what QAM frequency TWC has them on.


If you are hitting the low 30's S/N, you've got trouble - as discussed earlier in the thread. If the signal is varying or -7dbm or lower, the box will begin to hickup. Go below -10dbm and you'll get the effects you are describing.


----------



## dizzyfaust

the diagnostic is a nice feature










so far i have not used analog, but ive used hdmi to dvi, s-video, and component with no problems.


----------



## Tigerriot

I believe they may have recalled the XBR960. If not they have clearly halted production on them. Read my thread for more info.


----------



## RJB in Phila




> Quote:
> I believe they may have recalled the XBR960. If not they have clearly halted production on them. Read my thread for more info.



While it is true there have been some problems with some sets (including my first one that I returned) and there seems to be a supply problem with some stores, it seems to me a little hasty to say that they have recalled it or have "clearly halted production." Another explanation could be that demand is exceeding supply. If anyone has any proof of a production halt, I would be interested in hearing more.


----------



## rwinkler

I agree with RJB. Launch of a new product can make a mess of deliveries, especially if demand exceeds supply. And I'm still not convinced that the "problems" being discussed are so widespread as to prompt a recall or even production halt. My guess is that there are many more satisfied 960 customers than problems.


I also hesitated before buying my 960, but then I remembered that my last 27" Sony also had a problem when I got it several years ago, and had to return it for a new one.


Buying locally and getting the extended warranty are my rules when I want to purchase a new, complicated device. As an alternative, one can always wait until the dust settles to take the plunge. But for me, I wanted to see the Olympics in HD, so I went for it.


Bob


----------



## doretta

If there is a recall or a production stop then I'm glad I already got my 960 because I love it and it is working fine.


----------



## Segaboy

Well, I ordered my through the Sony Family Store in June and they told me six weeks for delivery. Granted it has only been five weeks.


I am still waiting










I was hoping to watch the Summer Olympics in HD...


----------



## triplex

I think it is irresponsible to post about a phantom recall. Even if there was a problem with the set, Sony wouldn't recall them. If you have researched the Grand Wega LCD rear projections, a lot of people had problems with the bulbs burning out after only a couple of hours. Sony replaced the bulbs under warranty. So if history repeats itself Sony would only fix TVs that are defective.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by RJB in Phila_
> *While it is true there have been some problems with some sets (including my first one that I returned) and there seems to be a supply problem with some stores, it seems to me a little hasty to say that they have recalled it or have "clearly halted production." Another explanation could be that demand is exceeding supply. If anyone has any proof of a production halt, I would be interested in hearing more.*



The Tweeter stores in Florida alone have well over 40 in the warehouse - they will gladly sell anyone a set I bet.


So I don't know who thinks there are supply problems.


----------



## MikeinSyracuse

Mine arrived at the local warehouse here in Syracuse today. The delivery company left a message to schedule a delivery next week. This set was ordered directly from SonyStyle two weeks ago. If there is a recall someone needs to tell Sony.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

Considering that I spent the day on the phone with the head of service for tweeter in florida trying to figure out exactly what was up with the HDMI connection (and it appears the problem isn't Sony's but with MIT's MyHD 120 Card and DVI Card) if there was a recall, I doubt he wouldn't have said something to quit wasting all of our time getting to the bottom of this issue.


----------



## spongebob




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Tigerriot_
> *I believe they may have recalled the XBR960. If not they have clearly halted production on them. Read my thread for more info.*



Actually, the way I heard it was that Sony has gone out of business.


bob


----------



## paris_tn

cad_3 who or what is an isp guy that calibrated your tv? I have held off along time on getting another tv for the bedroom and i really need one as my Sony 32xbr went out 2 years ago and no telling how many years i had it and loved it. It was heavy as led but was the best picture i have ever seen or had on a tv. I am thinking of getting a KD-34XBR960 or a Panasonic or Sony 42" Plasma. When i have visited CC in the last year or two, i am guessing it was the xbr910 was playing, it blew me away every time i went by it. I went to look at Plasmas but i keep looking over at that heavy crt and the picture blows me away and seems much better than the Plasma but maybe it is just me. I can't seem to get away from big heavy crt's but i like tv for picture quality. I have never had hdtv or wide screen so i wonder if i can adjust. I have read thru this whole thread and it is informative. Questions i have, if i order one thru Sony and where they say they will bring it and sit it up, can i pay one of the Sony people to calibrate the tv? I liked your post and who or whatever the isp guy is, it seems we need to get one, or atleast i do if i buy this tv.


1.How much does it cost to have someone calibrate the new tv?

2.What's one of the best outside antennas i can buy?(I am up about 60 feet on a tower with no antenna and to hit Nashville is about 100 miles, Memphis is 120 miles, Jackson, TN is 60 miles and Paducah, KY is 60 miles)

3.I hear some people saying that this crt hdtv wide screen doesn't play the analog channels very good and some say they do, does Panasonic or Sony plasma handle analog channels better?

4.If anyone in here uses Charter cable and this 960 Sony, how does it work on Charter? I have basic extended. I tried digital and that was the WORST NIGHTMARE EVER. They brought this box and it had a hell of a delay and flipped thru 100's of channels with nothing and then something, use abut 2 or 3 remotes and the same day i got that, i had them to come remove it. I want one remote and no dead channels and no delay. I have thought about dish but i hate to get rid of my cable internet as i love this for internet.

5.I haven't ruled out buying another great Sony analog set but i would love to move with the times.

Thanks


----------



## dizzyfaust

i was never really impressed with kirsten dunst, but after watching spiderman in widescreen 1080, i have to say i was wrong.....


----------



## BloatedCorpse

..lol dizzy...it's amazing how 1080 has become the new beer goggles!


----------



## ghostrider1




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by HDTVFanAtic_
> *Well, that would most likely be the STB. I expected you were talking about the set's own tuner, but that's not the case.
> 
> 
> Did your old set have the problem?
> 
> 
> Most likely its a signal problem which either balancing the lines to your house or an amp will help.
> 
> 
> Use the diagnostic screens on the SA3250HD to check the signal and S/N on your HDTV channels and what QAM frequency TWC has them on.
> 
> 
> If you are hitting the low 30's S/N, you've got trouble - as discussed earlier in the thread. If the signal is varying or -7dbm or lower, the box will begin to hickup. Go below -10dbm and you'll get the effects you are describing.*



Thanks HDTVFanAtic!!!


It turns out the signal was very low. An amplifier fixed the problem.


I must say this is the best HDTV picture I have ever seen. The cable tech said the same thing. I would like to join the people who love their 960.


----------



## rameade3

I'm waiting for CC to deliver my second set. As I reported in an earlier thread, my current set started malfunctioing after about three hours of operation. The screen would blink on-off sporadically. I asked CC the next day to replace the set. Since then, the set's function has gotten worst, such that now after about 15 min of on-time the screen will go into a "spasm" of blinking, the Timer/Stand By light will start blinking and the set will suddenly shut down.


During the short time the set acted normally, I did not notice any other issues, e.g., geometry. My hook-ups are HD DirecTiVo-HDMI; Pioneer 563 dvd player and Pioneer 510 dvd recorder connected to Yamaha V2400 a/v rcvr. I'm currently using a basic Monster surge protector with no line conditioning. Could my set's problems be caused by dirty power/voltage fluctuations? Do I need to upgrade to something like the Monster Power Center?


----------



## dizzyfaust

your probs sound like a bad power supply, not dirty power.


if i had to have something go wrong, it would be a bad ps. pretty clear you want a replacement.


gl


----------



## liu

Ok is it normal for the xbr960 to have the screen go blank while watching it and snap back on? This has happened maybe 3 or 4 times over the last two weeks.


----------



## dizzyfaust

if its a digital or ota signal its normal.


test: do a diagnostic and see if the signal strength, errors, etc drop/increase.









now if your set is actually powering off...well lets just say thats not good.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

I am seeing ALOT of problems with the 960. If your tv set doesnt have any problems, who is to say there wont be in a year or 2??? Maybe I will be safer going with the 910.. ? no problems with that set,.....


----------



## spongebob

Could someone explain what all the parameters are and what they mean? Also, could low (weak) readings deteriorate the SD or analog picture? quality? I want to go back to good guys to check the horrible SD PQ and am hoping it is because of the distribution system in the store. I thought digital was either go or no-go?


thx


bob


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

Quick question. How drastic is the improvement of PQ compariable to the Sony KF42WE610 (LCD RPTV)?


I am thinking of buying this set instead. The 960 is just giving me too many problems.


----------



## STEELERSRULE

JamisonBWolsh,


You will probably be better served asking that question in the Projection TV forum.


----------



## eganders

How do you get into the service menu on the 34XBR960?


----------



## pt270

Hit Power off then push display then 5 then volume + then power on button.


----------



## spongebob




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by pt270_
> *Hit Power off then push display then 5 then volume + then power on button.*



Then get out your Bible if you don't know what you are doing










bob


----------



## eganders




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by pt270_
> *Hit Power off then push display then 5 then volume + then power on button.*



Interesting sequence. Are there other options as well?


----------



## cad_3




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by jedi29_
> *
> 
> Did the ISF tech use an optical compariter ?
> 
> Was the price for ALL the inputs?
> 
> Did he use an "input generator" or a DVD to do the calibration?
> 
> "Can`t do much with the horizontal problems" could you please clarify ?
> 
> Sorry to be a pest
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , But I`m looking at that set as well as the up-comming XS series and also thinking about the HS 30" .
> *



Hey Gary,


If an optical compariter is a thing-y that you tape to the center of the tv, then yes. If not, then I'm not sure.

Alas, no. From what I understand it's for just that one, and that's pretty common. In theory (if I knew what I was doing),... I could fairly easily change all the others to be the same as that one input.

He used a DVD to do the calibration.

Sony's Service menu allows the ability to make changes to the vertical lines (guns?, something)... but not the horizontal. So by giving it a plus setting, you can move the individual colors left and right but not up and down. So any geometry problems you have that are vertical and be 'eased'... but any that are horizontal, you'll just have to live with.


Don't know squat about the XS series, but this guy told me that this set was just about the best thing on the market short of spending 10k. He said that he owns 10 tvs, and just both this set as well... So, I'm exceptionally happy with it, and it looks great. And the 34" widescreen is a great size... I was originally looking at a 30" widescreen and I'm really happy I went w/ the 34". Good luck on your future purchase!


-C


----------



## cad_3




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by doretta_
> *If there is a recall or a production stop then I'm glad I already got my 960 because I love it and it is working fine.*



"Ditto!"

My thoughts exactly!


----------



## cad_3




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by paris_tn_
> *cad_3 who or what is an isp guy that calibrated your tv?*



ISF certified. It means they have been taught how to do the job of calibrating TVs. Now... just because they have the certificate, it doesn't mean that they'll always do a good job. The guy I went with, was recommended to me personally, by a good friend, and I got to see his work, before, during and after; so I know it's great work.



> Quote:
> *
> 
> Questions i have, if i order one thru Sony and where they say they will bring it and sit it up, can i pay one of the Sony people to calibrate the tv? I liked your post and who or whatever the isp guy is, it seems we need to get one, or atleast i do if i buy this tv.
> *



Not exactly. You should allow the tv to "settle" which I've heard from many people is about 100 hours of use. Because the ISF guy I used lives on the East Coast and was only going to be out West (where I live) for about 1 week, I left my TV on 24 hours a day because I only had about 4 1/2 days before my appointment with him.




> Quote:
> *
> 
> 1.How much does it cost to have someone calibrate the new tv?
> 
> 2.What's one of the best outside antennas i can buy?(I am up about 60 feet on a tower with no antenna and to hit Nashville is about 100 miles, Memphis is 120 miles, Jackson, TN is 60 miles and Paducah, KY is 60 miles)
> 
> 3.I hear some people saying that this crt hdtv wide screen doesn't play the analog channels very good and some say they do, does Panasonic or Sony plasma handle analog channels better?
> 
> 4.If anyone in here uses Charter cable and this 960 Sony, how does it work on Charter? I have basic extended. I tried digital and that was the WORST NIGHTMARE EVER. They brought this box and it had a hell of a delay and flipped thru 100's of channels with nothing and then something, use abut 2 or 3 remotes and the same day i got that, i had them to come remove it. I want one remote and no dead channels and no delay. I have thought about dish but i hate to get rid of my cable internet as i love this for internet.
> 
> 5.I haven't ruled out buying another great Sony analog set but i would love to move with the times.
> 
> Thanks*



1.) Expect a couple hundred dollars. It may be a little less due to your geographic region, but here, I'd say anything from $250-350.

2.) Sorry, I can't help with this. I've heard a lot of negative things about the Terk 55 (or 44 or something like that). I use an powered indoor antenna.

3.) Subjective opinions. I like this CRT just fine.

4.) I don't have cable but I do notice a delay before they will display. Something I've done is enabled both digital and analog channels. Then when I want to surf I hit split screen, and surf on the right side, which is limited to analog only. This lets me quickly find the channel I'll jump to for digital. *LOL*... A kind of hokey work around, but I'm happy with it.

5.) I have no regrets and very quickly "adjusted" to a much larger, much nicer tv. *hehe* And the DVD are well... There was a reason I wasn't on Netflix before (20" 10 year old tv... why?)... Now w/ 6.1 DTS ES/EX surround w/ the 34" widescreen...







I love netflix *lol*


-C


----------



## eganders

I'm planning to calibrate my new 34XBR960. Any thoughts about which calibration DVD would be the better choice for these particular sets - DVE or AVIA or something else for that matter?


And to any of you who have both, which to you like to use better, or do you always use both.


BTW - After an initial calibration, how often would you expect that it will need to be done again on a 960?


Thanks


----------



## yestfto73

Does anyone have any inside information on how well the KD-34XBR960 is selling? Is there a huge demand for it? I am considering purchasing it (either the KD-34XBR960, or the Hitachi 51s715 RPTV), however, I'm afraid that if it is not doing well, Sony will just completely stop producing the Trinitron (like they did in Japan) and concentrate fully on (inferior) digital display technologies like the crappy LCD. I guess I just want to have faith that Sony won't do something stupid and abandon the almighty Trinitron, one of the few things that made this company great. If I sense that it's going that direction, I'd rather invest in a company that is committed to the CRT (RPTV or direct) and its innovations.


----------



## dizzyfaust

avia took me freakin' forever...but its got plenty of tests, patterns, etc.


if i had to do it over again i'd use something shorter and faster


----------



## Tigerriot

There is no need for anyone to act offended that I suggested the XBR960 may have been recalled. It appears that is not the case right now.


However, some of you may have noticed that I said they may have halted production as well. It's incredibly unlikely that Sony would recall the sets because most electronics manufacturers aren't going to admit mistakes unless they have too. However, there are clearly a lot of faulty sets talked about in this thread. Far more than the XBR910 from last year. I've owned one myself and never had a single complaint.



So, I hope I didn't ruin anyone's day with the word "recall". It is clear that there are more problems than there should be with this set so far. I still hold to my claim that Sony has halted production right now. I can't say how long but it's very likely it has happened. Yes, you can still find the tv because not every single retail store has sold out of it. That doesn't mean they haven't halted production. The fact that no one seems to be able to restock the tv however, it a sign of something and no, it's not because it's selling like hotcakes. $2500 tube tvs don't sell like that.


----------



## eganders




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by dizzyfaust_
> *avia took me freakin' forever...but its got plenty of tests, patterns, etc.
> 
> 
> if i had to do it over again i'd use something shorter and faster
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *



Dizzy - So how do you feel about the results - worthwhile? Definitely better than not doing the calibration?


Did the calibration take so long because there was a lot to adjust, or most screens were fine and just getting through the DVD takes a heck of a lot of time? BTW - how much time are we talking about here and was this on a 960?


Have you had a chance to try an alternative like DVE? Is DVE an option for something shorter and faster?


Thanks for the good info!


----------



## cad_3




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Tigerriot_
> *There is no need for anyone to act offended that I suggested the XBR960 may have been recalled. It appears that is not the case right now.
> *



I am NOT offended. It -does- annoy me when people speak without proof or fact. Just because one person had it happen to them, doesn't mean it will for everyone. If you had proof (and I don't know if you did or didn't)... I would have -REALLY- appreciated you citing it. I'm not being one sided... it annoys me just the same when others (without proof or fact) say that another group is scheduled to ship, when they have no idea.


People, back up your statements. The "I talked to a Sony rep and this is what he said", is just fine!... And to all of you who already do that... my most sincere appreciation!


That stated:


I must say I'm mildly curious as to what made it the case before? You went looking for one, and couldn't find one available in stock... ergo, Sony has recalled the whole line? Or discontinued them? Or halted production? I mean come on... what is your basis for making such assertions? Basic debate, I want proof.












> Quote:
> *
> 
> The fact that no one seems to be able to restock the tv however, it a sign of something and no, it's not because it's selling like hotcakes. $2500 tube tvs don't sell like that.*



Actually, I'd say it has much more to do with the middleman and how well they prepared for this. Those that placed larger orders have the TVs. (As is evidence of 1/2 of the stores in my area.) Those that didn't... are trying to get into the queue now. And no, $2500 tvs don't sell like hotcakes. However, $3000 tvs (You cite the 910. It was $2500. Throw in a dual tuner and the other minor improvements and that would easily be worth another $500) that are priced at $2000 (approx price of a 960) do.


Your 910 had no problems. Your happy (which leads me to wonder why you're trolling here.) Call it a day and leave it alone.


I was the 4th order for my local CC about 2 weeks before the release date. I got it in the first batch, but they were actually sold out before any got a chance to be a floor model... must have been because they halted production.


----------



## Tigerriot

Sorry to dissapoint you but I don't have any "smoking gun" evidence to prove to you that there has been a "production halt" or something like it.


However, there is clearly a lot of circumstantial evidence to support my theory. The first big piece being that one of the biggest Sony retailers in the United States cannot get any new units for at least 6 weeks. Couple that info with numerous problems discussed in this thread and you have plenty of reason to think something odd is happening.


Also, when I asked 2 employees of this massive retailer about a "production halt" or something like it, they both replied with a "maybe" type of answer and both refused to deny it. These are people that would normally be very quick to shut down any suggestion of a problem like that. When I questioned this sales manager from that store about the GW III production halt ealier this year, he denied it up an down even though we all found out it had occured. So, the fact that he did not deny this was ample reason for me to think they have halted production for all the problems people have had with them.


----------



## dizzyfaust

ive only used avia, which is very very very through for an amateur.


i must have been really fortunate (heres to you walsh/salute) and only had a little bowing on the right lower corner. using avia i corrected it to where i cant notice it on a ticker (i.e. espn, cnn).


the colours etc were too hot, but using the xbr menu adjustment and a little fine tuning with the avia filters my picture is clearly more accurate.


as countless others have stated, i now check out travel/nature/etc in hd. amazing. to illustrate, ive never been impressed by kirsten dunst but after watching spiderman i have to say i was wrong...(see infra) as bloated corpse put it "1080 is the new beer goggles".


if i had to do calibration again id use something shorter. my set seemed pretty good out of the box. i'd also like to say my voom setup was flawless. maybe i should play the lotto this week


----------



## spongebob




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by dizzyfaust_
> *ive only used avia, which is very very very through for an amateur.
> 
> 
> i must have been really fortunate (heres to you walsh/salute) and only had a little bowing on the right lower corner. using avia i corrected it to where i cant notice it on a ticker (i.e. espn, cnn).
> 
> *



How did you correct the bowing?


bob


----------



## dizzyfaust

hmm i was a bit unclear, i used avia to line up the corner a bit better, but i use the tilt in the menu to actually straighten up the picture.


i'd use the service menu if i had more time. its nice to know you can reset to factory specs


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

There are issues with the set and the DVI to HDMI from various sources. However, I am not 100% willing to say it's totally the set's fault. Check HTPC Thread if you want more info.


I had the local tech out here today. Took care of what we could with the Keystone in the upper left and lower right corner.


He has ordered several Sony Magnet packages which gives you more flexibility than the magnets they use on the CRT in the factory. He is convinced that will correct the rest.


You can adjust the Service Menu all you want, but there's only so much you can do without finally hitting the magnets and I 've yet to see a 910 or 960 that doesn't need it.


Would I do it again? Yes, the TV is worth it.


If it doesn't work 100% out of the box, it's fine for 95% of the untrained buyers.


I'm just more picky. If that's what I have to do to get it right, so be it.


----------



## Phantastica

Those two corners are badly in need of some work on my set too. Were the magents covered under your warranty? The last time I had a tech here, he said that they were.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Phantastica_
> *Those two corners are badly in need of some work on my set too. Were the magents covered under your warranty? The last time I had a tech here, he said that they were.*



Of course.


----------



## ritewinger

I am looking into getting a new TV for the football season and this Sony XBR is on my list. How satisfied are all of you with this TV? I really would like a larger screen but have heard that the PQ on this will crush any DLP/LCD pic. Is that about right? My only wants in my new tv is the Cablecard, dual tuner/w split screen, and HDMI. AS for DLP there is a very limited amount of TV's with the Cablecard. Only one I have seen yet is the Mitsubishi, and I don't think I would like their anti-glare screen. Thanks for any help you guys can provide. BTW, I talked to a local store who has this TV in stock as of today. At a great price I may add.


----------



## MichaelDaly




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by HDTVFanAtic_
> 
> I had the local tech out here today. Took care of what we could with the Keystone in the upper left and lower right corner.
> 
> 
> He has ordered several Sony Magnet packages which gives you more flexibility than the magnets they use on the CRT in the factory. He is convinced that will correct the rest.



Was the local tech that you spoke of a Sony tech or someone else? I recently purchased this set and have some minor issues. I'm trying to determine if I should swap the set or have someone calibrate it.


----------



## Bombs

After staunchly defending the set, I ended up returning it.


When I had the ISF guy at my house, and he inputted a 720p signal grid, there was a horrible flicker effect. It clearly was not accepting the 720p signal properly, although I could only notice it when looking at a bright white wall on a broadcast. We called Sony to inquire abou this and got very few straight answers, even after talking to a manager.


Regardless, with the geometry not being so great, this problem, and the possibility for hidden problems, I just decided it wasn't worth it for me. I am massively picky.


The picture on this TV, even the one in my house, is awesome. But for 2200 bucks and 34 inches, I would really expect near perfection.


No way I go to DLP or LCD, those are just garbage for picture. I'm just going to get a Mitsu 55613 rear projection, have it ISF calibrated, and enjoy the big screen. I have the room in my house for that size TV.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

ISN'T LCD rptv (Wega IV coming out soon) good? you may want to try that one out...


----------



## 56Oval

Finally tracked down a 960 in town and bought it.


First impressions:


HD is unbelieveable!! I was considering the HS420, but the tube on the 960 is the best I've ever seen.


SD from cable is very good. Much much better than the cheapo HD Sanyo I was considering. It was unwatchable. The 960 is 95% as good as the 27" SD Sony it replaced for SD.


Problem:


After leaving the TV off overnight and turning it on this morning, I got a "No Signal" from the antenna. I powered it off for 15 seconds and it turned back on and worked just fine. I saw Jamison reported this problem. Anyone else??


Geometry:


People are talking about geometry problems. What exactly is meant by this? My 960's picture looks square and not distorted.


----------



## Bombs

The LCD RPTVs, even the IV, which I saw demoed, are awful, in my opinion. Pixelation with movement, jagged edges. It's just bright and looks good in a store.


Bottom line, if you buy a DLP or LCD now, you will feel bad in two years when you can get a better one for less money, and it still won't be as good as a CRT.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by ritewinger_
> *I am looking into getting a new TV for the football season and this Sony XBR is on my list. How satisfied are all of you with this TV? I really would like a larger screen but have heard that the PQ on this will crush any DLP/LCD pic. Is that about right? My only wants in my new tv is the Cablecard, dual tuner/w split screen, and HDMI. AS for DLP there is a very limited amount of TV's with the Cablecard. Only one I have seen yet is the Mitsubishi, and I don't think I would like their anti-glare screen. Thanks for any help you guys can provide. BTW, I talked to a local store who has this TV in stock as of today. At a great price I may add.*



Cablecard is over-rated at this point. VERY SLUGGISH.


Split screen does not work with 2 HDTV inputs....only HDTV on right and SD on left.


DLP won't do 1080i at this point.


HDMI is very picky - more so than the DVI issues cable companies were having with their DVIs to HDTV.


That said, this will be a good investment long term as nothing can match a CRT picture that is out today. If it becomes a bedroom TV or somewhere else, it will give years of good results.


----------



## NorthJersey

remember, Samsung will be releasing their new "97" line of DLP's in November, with native 1080P resolution. Of course, the MSRP is $7000, but my next TV will be 1080p, ATSC/NTSC/QAM tuners with cablecard.


Sharp is also releasing a 1080p tv, but don't remember what type technology it is, just remember that it'll be 45"


----------



## Ppuno

Newbie here, I took the plunge and bought the tv and the dvd dream system from Circuit City. Should arrive Friday in time to watch the Olympics! Funny thing was the circuit city guy was pressuring me away from this tv and towards a Panasonic 34". He said Sony was going downhill fast.


We'll see...


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

CC.. and your in Sacramento?? GOOD LUCK. You share the same warehouse where I got 3 960 DUDs!!! I hope you get one that works. Examine the geometry and make sure the tuner works properly....


----------



## dizzyfaust

sales people at my cc are more a hindrance than anything else.


latest ex:

me: where's your canned air ?

cc drone: whats that ?











going down hill fast, whats that exactly mean ? did he do a detailed analysis of the company/division ? or does he mean that sony has sponsored downhill ski teams in the upcoming winter olympics ?


next time a sales person tells you xxx is going downhill, ask them to explain.

scenario:

you: explain

cc drone: dood, i was taking a bong hit, and my friend told me sunny delight tastes like poo...


----------



## Newest Hobby

I have to say it one more time. I have tried to restrain from posting multiple times on the same thread.


I love this unit. I know there are a few folks here who seem to have got a bad seed but that does not mean the entire line is doomed and I am proof. While I am not "Joe HD" expert and I am probably not the best at calibration, but I think this unit is a "10". HD is about as good as it gets. NTSC really isn't that bad looking on this set. Really it isn't!! Now that I have HD, I avoid NTSC broadcast like the plague anyway.


I bought what I could afford. This was it. Yes, I want a Plasma someday. I think they are going to get better and cheaper in the next two years. This unit is going to make one hell of a bedroom unit in three to four years.


I think we should stop focusing how crappy NTSC looks and start looking to the future now and praise how friggin awesome HD/DVD looks. I work all day. When I come home at night there is plenty of HD to watch. There are more and more HD programs coming.


In my eyes, this is the best CRT you can buy today at any price. If you can afford it, buy it. If you can't, there are some other great choices that will not be as grand as this XBR but without a doubt a great TV.


I can only share my "personal" experiences with my unit but I would only trade it for a Pioneer or Fujitsu Plasma.


Going on three weeks of HD orgasim and a trouble free Sony !!


-Rick


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

In your use, yes..the 960 is perfect. Unless you have VOOM, the big networks only show hdtv from 8pm-11pm showing a few shows (not all the shows however). All the other times you watch tv, SD channels look horrible on this set because you have to zoom the images. If you dont, you will have black bars and possible burn in. Viewing size will be 27" I believe. HDTV wont be fully utilized for another 3-5 years IMO. After researching all I can, I realize a HDTV 4:3 set will provide what I am looking for the next 5 years. After that, I believe Technology will improve so much, the price of tv sets will decrease dramatically with an increase tech wise.


Of course I have not seen what a sd image looks like on a 36" 4:3 HDTV . However, I will be watching 33" dvd and HDTV widescreen and 36" 3:4 programming.


If you are deciding on buying the 960, please keep in mind that at this time it is a crap shoot if you get a working or problematic set.


----------



## ritewinger

HDTV Fanatic......how sluggish is the Cablecard system. Are you talking about changing channels? If that is the case I deal with that now with my STB. I also called Comcast and the Card is free saving me $6.95 a month on the box and HDTV will be free with the integrated tuner (as far as I understand it anyway). Please let me know what you mean by sluggish.


Also, does anyone know if the current cablecard will be upgradeable when the bidirectional ability is developed and released...ie on demand and PPV?


----------



## gundyrat1

""After leaving the TV off overnight and turning it on this morning, I got a "No Signal" from the antenna. I powered it off for 15 seconds and it turned back on and worked just fine. I saw Jamison reported this problem. Anyone else??""


If you see this!.... go into diagnostics the last item in the menu and see what the incoming signal strengh is.

On mine I just bought a Cheapie Jensen set top Antenna and after turning the little knobbie I can get all the local stations in.

Ususally if I get the no signal its because the Tuning is unlocked due to poor signal strengh.


Has anyone found a Service code The screen adjustment seams like it 's missing horizontal Adjustemnt and mine seams to be off about 3/4" to the right everything else is fine corners etc:


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

That would not be it. If that was the case, why does turning it off and turning it back on "fix" the problem??? Also, why does the cable signal look horrible when you first turn it on? turning it off and then on again fixes the problem. The 960 has a run of bad tuners I believe?


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by ritewinger_
> *HDTV Fanatic......how sluggish is the Cablecard system. Are you talking about changing channels? If that is the case I deal with that now with my STB. I also called Comcast and the Card is free saving me $6.95 a month on the box and HDTV will be free with the integrated tuner (as far as I understand it anyway). Please let me know what you mean by sluggish.
> 
> 
> Also, does anyone know if the current cablecard will be upgradeable when the bidirectional ability is developed and released...ie on demand and PPV?*



The cablecard is so much slower than a STB its not funny. I will only use it when I want to view a HD program that is scambled while recording another with the STB.


The Pace HDTV box is fast in HD, the SA slow in comparison and the cablecard is slower than watching grass grow.


AFAIK, I do not believe the 1 way cable cards sets will ever work with 2 way communications.


----------



## MikhailS




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by 56Oval_
> *
> 
> Problem:
> 
> 
> After leaving the TV off overnight and turning it on this morning, I got a "No Signal" from the antenna. I powered it off for 15 seconds and it turned back on and worked just fine. I saw Jamison reported this problem. Anyone else??
> 
> *



I have the same problem when watching both SD or HDTV channels using built-in tuner with an analog cable. I got the TV from CC about three weeks ago. I have never had such problems with my old analog tv using the same wires.


So, is it a problem with a tv's tuner or cable signal? I am very happy with the tv otherwise.


Mikhail


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

If turning the tv off and then on again fixes the problem.. Its the tuner.


----------



## eganders




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by 56Oval_
> *After leaving the TV off overnight and turning it on this morning, I got a "No Signal" from the antenna. I powered it off for 15 seconds and it turned back on and worked just fine. I saw Jamison reported this problem. Anyone else??
> *



I have the same problem.


I've found that if I tune an analog station and then change back to digital, or alternatively if I leave it on for a minute or two and then change to another digital channel that clears the issue also.


----------



## Tigerriot

These tuner problems seem to be running rampant. I'm surpised some of you seem to be putting up with it so far. I would be returning that sucker ASAP.


----------



## cad_3




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Bombs_
> *The picture on this TV, even the one in my house, is awesome. But for 2200 bucks and 34 inches, I would really expect near perfection.
> *



Sorry to hear about that. But I agree... for that price, I want the perfect tv (+ it should cook, clean, and fold my laundry).










Fortunately for me, I think I got that. My buddy came over last night (he has the 910 and has also paid out a couple hundred to have his set professionally calibrated. He's a really hard core Audio/Video-phile. It was funny, I put in the two towers (as it is a DVD he also has)... and he was kinda pissed, because he said my 960 was noticably better than his 910 (now for the record, I had a much harder time making that comparison (sp) and I wouldn't have said 'noticably' but rather slightly or barely.) In any event, I think it was my calibration guy, he thinks it's the tv itself. Either way, we both agree that my 960 is better than his 910.


So Bombs, I hope you can find a set that meets your needs. Good luck!


Cheers,

-C


----------



## cad_3




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by JamisonBWolsh_
> *If turning the tv off and then on again fixes the problem.. Its the tuner.*



Try changing the channel instead of turning the tv off. Just channel up, then channel down. It takes less time too, and I'd bet it would work just the same.


----------



## 56Oval

Hi Cad3,


This morning it turned on with no HD signal from the antenna like yesterday. This time I didn't turn it off, but I just switched to the cable input and then back. HD signal came right back.


It's an annoying problem, but I'm not sure I want to swap TVs and risk getting one with bigger problems.


Does anyone have a TV that actually works perfectly?


I'm still amazed with the HD quality. It blows all the other CRTs away!


And I'm still suffering major issues not being able to use my TiVo with HD. It's sucking the life out of me.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

As I get the "no signal" error with the MyHD ATSC tuners that I have, to me its always been a decoding issue with the signal not synching. I don't think its the the TV, but DTV in general as I see that with 4 other tuners.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

So, HDTVFanatic. Are you saying this is normal for the HDTV tuners? They should work the bugs out before releasing this to the market....Would this also cause the sgnal for Cable TV to be garbled?


----------



## howdog

I got this info from my wife today while at work:


------------------------------------------


So, I tried turning it on again. Nothing. I get audio but no picture. I

tried hooking up the ps2. same thing. no picture. not sure about audio

though...


I get a flashing horizontal blue line

green line

red line


In that order at the top of the screen, the whole width of the screen.


Other than that, black nothingness...


Do you want me to contact tech support about it? I'm not sure what their

hours are....or do you know what the problem is and how to fix it...


I should clarify that the flashing lines only last for about 10 secs. then

they go away...


the tv worked fine this morning. I watched maybe 15-20min, checked what had

recorded and then turned it off.


-------------------------------------


I'm kinda concerned/scared about this since I got the TV via the Sony Employee

purchase program and not a retail store, ie I really don't have a course of action other

than to call tech support. Has anyone seen these symptoms before and/or know what

to try before giving Sony a call?


We too have had the tuner flakeyness before and minor geometry problems, but this

latest issue is obviously more than just an annoyance...


Thanks for any help/suggestions.


----------



## Segaboy

Hi there Howdog,


When did you actually place the order with the Sony Family Store?


I ordered my XBR960 on June 28th, 2004, and I am still waiting for my TV.


Did they call you before delivery, or did they just show up 'unannounced'?


Please let me know.


----------



## juandixon

i am curious too since I ordered mine on Aug 3 from the culver city store.


----------



## howdog

Hi Segaboy,


I placed the order (through a friend of mine who works for Sony) sometime in May, I believe.

It was delivered the second week in July so we've had it for about three weeks or so now.


Perhaps they're doing a first-come-first-served kind of thing; yours should probably come

any time now...


Yes, they definitely called to schedule an appointment before delivering.


In spite of the issues with this set (although I'm not so sure about this latest one ;-) ), you'll

probably love it as well. It is a truly remarkable television.


Good luck with yours.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

Hey JuanDixon,


Can you get me a Job at The Sony studios in culver city? Seriously....


----------



## bada

I have read every post in this thread, and would like to officially state that I am so glad I have not followed through with my plans to go down to the US from Canada to grab this puppy.


I know that the ones without problems arent usually posting, instead they are just watching and enjoying, but...


I follow many other threads on specific models of equipment, (on the z2 for example) and I know that the number of posts regarding problems with this model is unusually high to say the least. I know its hard to let a dream die, but common this is ludicrous. I wonder if even more problems with these same sets will start to surface as the months go by...


I wanted to love this set so badly, but I have to agree, for a $2200 Sony *high end* tube, high end performance should be there 99% of the time.


Do you think the people with problems with the 960 only represent 1%?


Wouldnt it be nice to know.


----------



## juandixon

every product's bugs, issues, etc are magnified in most forums. You just don't here from ALL the other guys who have absolutely no problems with their set thus they don't come online to seek help.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by JamisonBWolsh_
> *So, HDTVFanatic. Are you saying this is normal for the HDTV tuners? They should work the bugs out before releasing this to the market....Would this also cause the sgnal for Cable TV to be garbled?*



My experience and that of others is that the ATSC tuners are really picky. A few degrees with your antenna can go from no usable signal to full signal. I've just kind of accepted that as nature of the best.


Since I am recording so many movies, I hardly turn mine off, so quite frankly, I haven't seen the cold start issues, but know the MyHD tuners will hit with no signal when first turned on even in hot computer case.


Just passing on my experience and you may have something more going on - but i've just seen that on too many ATSC tuners to think its anything but the nature of the beast.


----------



## bada




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by juandixon_
> *every product's bugs, issues, etc are magnified in most forums. You just don't here from ALL the other guys who have absolutely no problems with their set thus they don't come online to seek help.*



I mentioned that I took that into account in my post, and yes it is true.


----------



## juandixon




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by bada_
> *I mentioned that I took that into account in my post, and yes it is true.*



yeah but outside of howdog and a few others, most of the "problems" with the set is not of fault of the 960 but either poor user understanding and/or poor video sources, etc.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

Cable Card install day. Very uneventful. Cable Card is SLUGGISH compared to STB as I had seen at the MSO test site...takes about 2-3 seconds to get pictures when you change channels.


Surprisingly, and don't ask me why, it scanned the whole cable system for 222 channels and 70 some analog ones in less than 5 minutes - much faster than the 50 minutes it takes first time.....dunno why.


We cannot figure out for the life of us how to get to diagnostic pages that show on a table of contents under cablecard. Every movement takes us out of the CableCard menu.


The cable channels register correctly once the cablecard was installed. For example, 628 was the HD ABC feed...fed in the clear on the cable and could be picked up by the Sony tuner without cable card - though it was 0.628 and I had to punch exactly that in. Now with the cable card in, all channels are just 628.


I used a terk 5x8 satellite multiswitch with a built in amp after installer left to get me about 4db more gain for the card and STB's which I hope will get me over the drop in signal and s/n the set seems to have.


Overall, no real issues in the install. Now if I could just get me DVI HTPC output to work properly with the HDMI input, I'd be set once the magnets/geometry are fixed.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

BTW, something I wanted to pass along to those that own the 910 or this one. The tech showed me this and I confirmed it. There are slightly different circuits for Vivid, Standard, Movie and Pro inside the set. Thus if you set Standard to the same settings as Pro, you'd expect it to look the same - there are still differences though due to the circuitry.


After playing around with it, I would RECOMMEND starting in the Pro mode and ajusting from there. It comes from the factory in VIVID, which if you look at my first post - IS WAY TOO HOT. People complained about a dark set, so they made it lighter, lol.


A good starting point would be in this area.


Pro


Picture 42

Brightness 36

Color 28

Hue 0

Sharpness 31

Color Temp Warm

Clearedge VM Medium


This should get you close to the ballpark and adjust from there.


Then set one for a dark room and one brighter during the day and you'll be set.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by juandixon_
> *yeah but outside of howdog and a few others, most of the "problems" with the set is not of fault of the 960 but either poor user understanding and/or poor video sources, etc.*



I totally disagree with your response. Most people reading these forums understands the basics of this set. Could be a mass tuner problem?


----------



## yidimsum

The guys from the local hi-end video/audio store delivered a 960 to me today. They told me that they didn't know when new 960's would get in, so they are letting me use the floor model for the time being before new shipment comes in. The 960 looks fantastic and seems to work perfectly. I just found out that the apartment buliding where I live, where cable & internet are understood to be free, also has free HD! Adding HD should have costed $20 more a month. HD ESPN looks awesome. Watched the Marlins vs. Cardinals. The weird thing was that we just hooked up the coaxil cable to the TV and immediately got HD - I thought that setup would be complex. I haven't used any DVE discs yet but there doesn't appear to be any geometry problems. I'm using a Momitsu DVD player with it right now. HD 1080 looks better than most of the DVD's I have.


Do you guys think that I should just keep this floor model, or should I swap it for a new one when they receive shipment?


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

I would keep it. It works perfectly. It has the 100 hours in use, so you can calibrate it. Is there a way to get some money back because this set is used?


----------



## dizzyfaust

hehe i watched a bit of espnhd







ive had the signal go black or lose sound as well, changing channels has fixed it.


but here's what ive noticed. i only get this rare problem using the dish. if im running off the 960 tuner for local ota programming i do not have this problem.


im running the dish on vid 7 using a hdmi to dvi cable. the picture is excellent in hd and even the analog is good. the cable is snug but not tight in the hdmi slot.


as more history develops with this set im sure you guys with problems can expect a resolution within the 2 year warranty period







woot!


just so you guys dont hate me 'cause im lucky, i did have to unplug the northbridge fan on my abit ic7 max because it was making a hideous noise.







er i mean


----------



## gundyrat1

not really sure my horizontal is off now as I think it's the broacast cause it serams like different channels have different amounts of sidebaring and the bar width seams to change sides one station has everything showing more bar on the left than the right then I change to a differant channel and it's fine,

then yet another channel and now its on the oposite side

Think I need to get a better Antenna.

or run a couple facing different directions.

I guess I was expecting OTA Digital to be stable but it drifts in and out all the time.


----------



## howdog

Good news! Got home and sure enough the picture wouldn't come on at all. After going through the Sony online customer support menu system and calling Sony's 800 number, they suggested unplugging it for a minute and then plugging it back in. That worked and we are back in business. Whew!


There's been a lot of negative posts about this tv. This incident was definitely scary. However, this is an amazing television, nonetheless.


Okay, back to our HDTivo ;-)


----------



## Segaboy

You should NOT have to unplug and replug a $2200 monitor just to get an image!


Sidenote: My AT&T GSM phone is So-Cal blows, and I have to 'reboot' my phone roughly ten times a day to continue to get a signal while driving.


Solution: Got a new phone from Verizon Wireless...Analogy: Swap your defective product for something that works the way it is suppoesed to. Don't let inadequate manufacturing techniques thwart you from a good product.


If no one raises their voice to Sony, then we as consumers are saying that it is okay to release a bogus product with the XBR label. No way!!!


----------



## rwinkler

Here's what I think(not that it matters):


- I'm glad I took the plunge and bought the 960 in spite of being worried due to these posts. My 960 continues to work great after 3 weeks.

- This TV is complicated. I'm a EE and I'm still discoveing new things. HDTV, digital cable, HDMI, and OTA tuning is new to many of us.

- I agree with the posting that the ASTC tuner is extremely sensitive and a slight change in antenna orientation can be the difference between no picture and beautiful picture on digital channels.

- My experience with forums is that the bad outweighs the good by at least 10:1. Doesn't matter if it's cars or TVs. People who are content do not often frequent or respond in forums.

- I'm sure many who are writing are having legit problems. I'm not surprised and I usually buy my equipment locally in case of return. I had to return my last 27" WEGA 'cause the component inputs didn't work. I accept this as the nature of the complicated equipment we are buying and the risks of being early adopters of high-tech.


Just my thoughts for whatever their worth. I still consider myself fortunate for being able to afford and worry about such trivial things as PQ on a $2k TV.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by howdog_
> *Good news! Got home and sure enough the picture wouldn't come on at all. After going through the Sony online customer support menu system and calling Sony's 800 number, they suggested unplugging it for a minute and then plugging it back in. That worked and we are back in business. Whew!
> 
> 
> There's been a lot of negative posts about this tv. This incident was definitely scary. However, this is an amazing television, nonetheless.
> 
> 
> Okay, back to our HDTivo ;-)*



Did they tell you this was a one-time fix? (Or perhaps, something to do whenever this problem appears?) Or, did they say you need to do this EVERY TIME you turn the set on? Please pass along your experiences over the next few days.


On another note, I receive all my TV via an OTA antenna, and I am very pleased with this set. But I have noticed that signal strength is critical. Since I have an antenna rotator and live about 10 miles from downtown Chicago, I have adequate signal strength as long as the antenna is properly positioned, so this isn't a problem for me. But those of you with OTA antennas may need to install pre-amplifiers and/or aim your antenna carefully.


But there is hope--at least for the next-generation sets next year. DTV tuners have been an issue in the broadcast industry. At least one major group (Sinclair) had petitioned the FCC to change the modulation scheme from 8VSB to CODFM(sp?, because their tests showed CODFM has better weak-signal and ghosting performance. The newly-developed tuners, which are supposed to be available to set manufacturers around year-end, are more sensitive, and Sinclair has endorsed these and withdrawn their petition. So, if you're in a weak-signal area and are contemplating an OTA HD system, you may want to wait until the new tuners are available. (I read this in Broadcasting and Cable magazine last week, so that's a credible source. If anyone's interested, I'll post updates here if they carry any more stories about this new tuner.)


Mark


----------



## Playdrv4me

As much as Id like to,I dont have time to read through this entire garble of information currently, im looking for some quick and dirty info about this set...and Im sure this will be a good refresher point for the thread as it has grown tremendously long.


A. The price that is listed in the "Official Page" from the first post on this thread, is that realistic, do they have these sets available for that price regardless of stock? If not, is there a sponsored member or something here or someone else that has a best price. Best ive been able to do is ebay for 1999 and that is quite high.


B. The set looked very good when I saw it at Circuit City, however as always with Sony high end tubes, there was some horizontal and vertical inaccuracies, tilting the picture a bit helped, but the very corner of the image still had some pulling. What is the general consensus on the reliability of this set?


C. Are there plans for a KD-30XBR960?


Im going to be purchasing some sort of high end set here soon, and for the money I think this is still better than those nice lightweight DLPs. As much as id like to have a DLP or LCD,they still have some way to go... LCD is way to grey for my taste, and Im not wild about the bulb issues with either...


Nice to be back on AVS.


Thanks,

Ian.


----------



## eblue

what i've done so far:


1) had sony service recalibrate convergence,vpos, trapezoid,vertical bars,etc.

2) had comcast amplify 15 db signal (at cable box side of house)with +15db amplifier

3) had comcast install cablecard and split at TV with STB


960 SD signals are slightly better when amplifier was installed. there doesn't seem to be noticeable increased noise. have not connected cablecard to an OTA yet.

the HD signals are OK-i may have made it less life-like compared to the pre-amplifier image.


i've hedged my bet by asking for my dealer to replace. but overall, this HDTV PQ is as good in SD and HD as my HD-ready 32HS500 set downstairs.


i'm now 85:15 probable of keeping this TV


i have no use for firewire

the PIP is limiting-it seems

the superfine pitch doesn't seem that much better than the HS500's PQ


----------



## kctobyjoe

Since this SONY 960 is relatively new, I am wondering if ANYONE has gotten a Joe Kane ISF calibration done yet ?


My understanding is an approx 100 hour burn-in before you attempt it anyway.


Ya' think someone would come up with a better term than burn-in when you mention electronics !!!


Fire away, boys...


----------



## foxfan

I think the proper term for the pre-calibration period is "BREAK-IN", not burn-in.


----------



## cad_3




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by gundyrat1_
> *I guess I was expecting OTA Digital to be stable but it drifts in and out all the time.*



Yeah, I have the same experience...


I guess the reason I didn't think anything of the fact that I have No Signal when I turn it on, is that it drifts in and out all the time... so I just change the channel. And I noticed that it shifts between HD channels more slowly (going to or from HD seems to take a sec)... so I do split, and on the right side it's just the analog channels... so I can find the show I want within just a few seconds (as analog to analog is very quick for channel changing).


Then I set the left side to the high def version of the same channel. Just how I do it...


I figure I'm about 40 miles from any towers for broadcasting







I live in the sticks! About 1/2 way between Sacramento and San Francisco... So everything is kinda weak, but using a powered anntenna has helped alot!


-C


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Playdrv4me_
> *As much as Id like to,I dont have time to read through this entire garble of information currently, im looking for some quick and dirty info about this set...and Im sure this will be a good refresher point for the thread as it has grown tremendously long.
> 
> 
> Im going to be purchasing some sort of high end set here soon....*



Then its your money to waste. If you don't have time to research the products, then you have no one but yourself to blame if you aren't happy.


----------



## Playdrv4me

While I could normally whole-heartedly agree with that statement, I have been a member of this forum for quite some time now and understand the need for research. I always come here and write about my own experiences with new products whenever necessary regardless of who is asking for advice or why, and Im usually here first looking for info on new products I want to purchase. I have text-book studied this set as much as is possible, and now I simply need the next bit, which is actual user feedback. That being said, I HAVE searched through many pages in this topic and at least in respect to my questions regarding the 30 inch set and especially my pricing concern, there is really nothing of relevance.


In the time that reply was written, it probably would have been easier to just formulate a one line response to one of those questions.


In any case, I do have a couple of points to make and further questions...


I noticed reading through this archive tonight, that this set does seem to be having an abnormal number of problems. While one could stick to the addage that people will only remember and bring to light issues with service or products they were DIS-satisfied with, the issues here do seem a bit excessive, and thats coming from someone who owned a JVC HM-DH30000U HD VCR at one point! It seems that Sony is trending toward the unfortunate situation of late, that begins with a superior idea, and somehow ends with a less than desirable execution. I remember I myself got to preview this set at a local CC recently and was disappointed immediately by the inaccuracies that were readily visible in the geometry of the tube. I was able to adjust some of it out with the tilt control, but an annoying pull and slight discoloration remained in one corner of the set.


With that being said, I really think that the better set for me at this point is actually the KV-30XBR910 and that brings its own series of questions.


My largest concern lies with the frustratingly increasing array of connectivity options available for HDTV sets these days. First there was firewire and Component connections, then DVI made its debut after proving popular in the PC world, then the HDCP compliant DVI standard was introduced, leaving non compliant DVI and Component essentially in the dust, as if that werent enough, now I noticed that the 960 supports new Cable-card and HDMI format connections.


Is all this really necessary? If I am going to be sticking with a simple STB from the Cable Co. arrangement, I know that sort of eliminates the immediate need for CableCard, but what about HDMI? Is it substantially different than HDCP compliant DVI? This is really my biggest concern with the 34/910 and the 30/910, which I can not believe the former of which still sells for 2379 at Circuit City with the 960 actually being cheaper.


Other than this my only other concern is a somewhat objective one regarding what I formally considered the novelty 30 inch screen size. As an apartment dweller that moves alot, I hate to say that ease of transport and movement is as important to me as size and PQ in the end. With this in perspective, the 30 inch model seems to be the best of all worlds. I just dont know if in a small apartment, 30 inches will be sufficient or not. Anyone who can give me input on this is greatly appreciated.


Sorry for the long posts, but I appreciate the variety of replies Ive seen so far.


----------



## bada




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Playdrv4me_
> *
> 
> Other than this my only other concern is a somewhat objective one regarding what I formally considered the novelty 30 inch screen size. As an apartment dweller that moves alot, I hate to say that ease of transport and movement is as important to me as size and PQ in the end. With this in perspective, the 30 inch model seems to be the best of all worlds. I just dont know if in a small apartment, 30 inches will be sufficient or not. Anyone who can give me input on this is greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> Sorry for the long posts, but I appreciate the variety of replies Ive seen so far.*



As far as moving goes, you would still be moving a relatively large 30 inch set. The difference in preparation and manpower involved in moving a 34 inch set compared to the 30 is not huge.


For you to actually benefit from the resolution on the 30 inch Sony XBRs, you would basically have to have about a 3-4 foot viewing distance.

The optimal viewing distance for the 34" XBR is about 6 feet, I dont think you want to be going smaller unless its for analog viewing and the likes.


----------



## spongebob




> Quote:
> For you to actually benefit from the resolution on the 30 inch Sony XBRs, you would basically have to have about a 3-4 foot viewing distance.
> 
> The optimal viewing distance for the 34" XBR is about 6 feet, I dont think you want to be going smaller unless its for analog viewing and the likes. [/b]



How do you figure that? What is the rule for HD/16:9 sets?


bob


----------



## BTV Mark

I've seen a few "viewing calculators." You can find them on Google. But here are a couple:

http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/IS...me/tv_faq.html 


http://www.myhometheater.homestead.c...alculator.html 



Mark


----------



## Playdrv4me




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by BTV Mark_
> *I've seen a few "viewing calculators." You can find them on Google. But here are a couple:
> 
> http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/IS...me/tv_faq.html
> 
> 
> http://www.myhometheater.homestead.c...alculator.html
> 
> 
> 
> Mark*



Thanks Mark, I really appreciate the input. This makes the decision a little easier for me, now I just need to find the 960 somewhere at a decent price.


----------



## Bombs

My XBR was picked up today, and the Mits 55613 arrived. I must say, I had my head up my rear, WAY UP my rear, on this one.


The Mits is bigger and the picture is exceptional. I'm not sure what the debate ever was.


Of course, the XBR960 was a bit sharper and more detailed, but this is pretty damn good (out of the box pre-calibration) and is much more theater like due to its size. Plus, HD is meant for a big screen, and this screen surely takes advantage of it.


For me, since I have the room, the Mits is a better choice. I can also certainly say, however, that the 960 has probably the best picture on a commerically available set that I have ever seen.


So I would say:


Not much space: XBR960

Got the space: CRT RPTV


----------



## bada




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Bombs_
> *
> 
> So I would say:
> 
> 
> Not much space: XBR960
> 
> Got the space: CRT RPTV*



Huh? How is a CRT RPTV the best option if you have the space? I know you're excited about your new toy, but there are better ways to fill space than with a rptv.


----------



## Bombs

What I meant was the space to sit farther away.


----------



## Segaboy

You know what drives me CRAZY???


I have been waiting for SEVEN weeks for this monitor and others are refusing them and returning in excess of three of them...JB...


ARRRGHGHH!!!


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

thats what happens when you use a source to save lots of money!


----------



## tennberg

Hi all,


I'm new to this thread and this is my first post.


I purchased an XBR960 today to take advantage of the Massachusetts tax-free holiday along with Tweeter's 10-20% off private sale. I was able to save 10% on the TV ($219) along with 5% in sales tax ($109). I will be getting Comcast HDTV within the next couple weeks (the TV is being delivered on the 24th) to take advantage of all this TV has to offer.


While I was in the store, the sales guy wanted me to buy a DVI to DVI cable for the Motorola cable box he showed me (6200, the same one I'd be getting from Comcast) to connect to the 960. I declined it, figuring I didn't want to leave there knowing he got me to buy more than I needed at that moment.


I then got home and found the user's manual for the TV online. Much to my schock, there was no DVI input on the back of the TV. The only video inputs were HDMI, component, and S-video. For some reason, I believe the 960 had DVI input. Is it true that the 960 has no DVI input?


To get to the point, would you recommend a DVI-to-HDMI cable to go from the 6200 cable box to the 960 or a component cable instead? I'm looking to get the best picture between the TV and the cable box. I found a 1 meter DVI to HDMI cable online but it was roughly $200!


Thanks.


----------



## Bombs

You can use the DVI to HDMI if you want to. It carries the same video signal as a straight DVI cable.


As a side note, I think there is a lot of confusion about the utility of a DVI/HDMI cable in these CRT sets. Since they ultimately require an analog conversion to display the picture, using a DVI really adds nothing over a well adjusted/calibrated component, in some respects I would say the picture is inferior (and DVI takes away many of the benefits of entering the service menu).


DVI/HDMI is only fully optimal in the setting of a fully digital display. I would just go with a very nice set of M500v component cables.


----------



## juandixon

don't worry segaboy we will get our sets soon and assuming they are of a later production date will have less bugs and more patches +D


patience is a virtue


----------



## Playdrv4me




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by JamisonBWolsh_
> *thats what happens when you use a source to save lots of money!*



Agreed. With large screen TVs I just cant see the advantage of mail and internet over landing a decent deal at the big name stores. You know another curious thing, Sony's high end TVs seem to be a situation where I actually find myself WANTING to purchase their display models that I see have no problems, rather than waiting for a surprise in a box from the store or via Mail.


Bombs, Im not sure if the 55613 is the Diamond series, but if it is OMG I MUST agree with you about the picture, the Diamond Series 55 inch is an absolute frieken NO BRAINER if you have space for it, I unfortunately dont, however I can tell you there would be a Diamond in my living room this INSTANT if I was in a house. For the money, its about as good as it gets, especially when I COULD get them through a high end store's discount Demo program here.


For now however, I have narrowed the choice to two sets and one trailing behind.


Keep in mind the top factors here are not only PQ, but size and convenience as well.


So far its:


KD-34XBR960... Best for my budget, Best features, Best PQ, best connectivity, WORST size.


KE-32TS2... Worst for the budget, decent PQ, decent Feature set, cool Plasma of course, and best for the convenience by far.


Sharp LC-32HV4U... In reserve.


CORRECTION - The Sharp should be LC-32G4U


----------



## Bombs

Its a Gold Plus. If you take the shield off, and get it calibrated, the picture is outstanding. In terms of picture quality, a calibrated 613 vs. a diamond is basically indistinguishable...the Diamond does come in a much nicer case however.


----------



## juandixon




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Playdrv4me_
> 
> *Agreed. With large screen TVs I just cant see the advantage of mail and internet over landing a decent deal at the big name stores. You know another curious thing, Sony's high end TVs seem to be a situation where I actually find myself WANTING to purchase their display models that I see have no problems, rather than waiting for a surprise in a box from the store or via Mail.
> *


*


actually we are purchasing directly from sony warehouse itself so it doesn't go thru the hands of a 3rd party vendor such as CC or GG. and it does get shipped directly to your home with phone verification. no surprises here. just we have to wait a lil longer than most but in the end it might be worth it. ;p*


----------



## Ppuno

I just had my xbr960 delivered today. WOW! I'm just a newbie but this screen blows me away. I know it has a 100 hour break in period, which will be the easiest 100 hours I've ever spent watching a tv. Watched Moulin Rouge and Toy Story 2, it was unbelievable!


thanks to this forum for educating me about the wonders of this set!


----------



## JamisonBWolsh




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Playdrv4me_
> *
> 
> So far its:
> 
> 
> KD-34XBR960... Best for my budget, Best features, Best PQ, best connectivity, WORST size.
> 
> 
> KE-32TS2... Worst for the budget, decent PQ, decent Feature set, cool Plasma of course, and best for the convenience by far.
> 
> 
> Sharp LC-32HV4U... In reserve.*




Why dont you add the KD-36XS955 .. Msrp is 1699 with a free stand and free delivery. The tv set is almost exactly like the 960 except its 4:3. and you save $$$

http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTE...U=KD36XS955KIT 


As far as I can see, only difference is the lack of PIP and 2nd generation resolution. It does include a built in tuner.


----------



## bada




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by JamisonBWolsh_
> *Why dont you add the KD-36XS955 .. Msrp is 1699 with a free stand and free delivery. The tv set is almost exactly like the 960 except its 4:3. and you save $$$
> 
> http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTE...U=KD36XS955KIT
> 
> 
> As far as I can see, only difference is the lack of PIP and 2nd generation resolution. It does include a built in tuner.*



Not too mention he'll lose about an inch in 16:9, and size is the feature that bothers him the most about the 960.


Also I dont think the xs955 models have firewire.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

He loses ONLY 1 inch of widescreen so 33" instead of 34". HOWEVER he will gain almost 10" in 4:3 programming. 36" instead of 27". AND since most programming today is still 4:3, this set is a bonus. He will have to replace the set when everything is 16:9, but that wont be for at least 5 years from now. Its only like 30lbs more, the same length, and taller.


----------



## bada




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by JamisonBWolsh_
> *He loses ONLY 1 inch of widescreen so 33" instead of 34". HOWEVER he will gain almost 10" in 4:3 programming. 36" instead of 27". AND since most programming today is still 4:3, this set is a bonus. He will have to replace the set when everything is 16:9, but that wont be for at least 5 years from now. Its only like 30lbs more, the same length, and taller.*



At least another 5 years? Damn, didnt think it was that long.


Figured I would point out that he loses an inch in 16:9, since he already finds the set too small.


Also, no firewire in the 955 could be a dealbreaker for some.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

What exactly is fire wire...


----------



## bada

Allows you to record HD to hdd or D-VHS, but most HD tuners in the US have firewire anyway.


If you were to buy in the US as I was going to, and import back to Canada, this would be more of a plus, as I dont beleive the firewire ports are enabled on HD tuners here.


----------



## BTV Mark

"Firewire" is a communications and networking protocol developed about 10 years ago by Apple computer. Sony calls it i-Link. It is also known as IEEE-1394.


It is a high-speed interfacing method using a single "plug and play" cable. It can connect computers with various types of high-speed devices, such as external hard drives and digital camcorders. It carries data (audio, video, and control signals) at 400 mb/sec.


For '960 TV owners, it's most common use today is probably to connect a mini-DV camcorder. In the future, it appears there will be many Firewire devices for us to have fun with.


Mark


----------



## spongebob




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by JamisonBWolsh_
> *Why dont you add the KD-36XS955 .. Msrp is 1699 with a free stand and free delivery. The tv set is almost exactly like the 960 except its 4:3. and you save $$$
> 
> http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTE...U=KD36XS955KIT
> 
> 
> As far as I can see, only difference is the lack of PIP and 2nd generation resolution. It does include a built in tuner.*



Is this available yet?


bob


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

Not until Sept:22 I just bought it at a sony style store. Rgis is what i got:


KD-36XS955- 1699.00 msrp

Free stand

Free delivery (stand is going to be delivered first)

12 months no payments no interest

Free remote (programmable)

$119 5 year warranty


Great deal. This almost the EXACT tv set of the 960. It also includes an HDMI hookup...


----------



## Playdrv4me




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by BTV Mark_
> *"Firewire" is a communications and networking protocol developed about 10 years ago by Apple computer. Sony calls it i-Link. It is also known as IEEE-1394.
> 
> 
> It is a high-speed interfacing method using a single "plug and play" cable. It can connect computers with various types of high-speed devices, such as external hard drives and digital camcorders. It carries data (audio, video, and control signals) at 400 mb/sec.
> 
> 
> For '960 TV owners, it's most common use today is probably to connect a mini-DV camcorder. In the future, it appears there will be many Firewire devices for us to have fun with.
> 
> 
> Mark*



Yep, and theres alot of exciting changes coming to the standard too... Apple already has doubled the standards current speed to 800Mbps with Firewire 800, and development is underway for Firewire 1600. Thats right, 1.6 Gbit throughput in optimal circumstances.


----------



## foxfan

Can anyone here who has the TV confirm if you are able to record from the digital tuner to a D-VHS deck through firewire?


This is the only reason why I would want to buy the XBR over the XS. Our digital cable boxes up here don't have firewire, so I would have used a cablecard TV with firewire as a workaround to be able to record (once our cable company start supporting cablecards)


I'm going to be buying a JVC 40000 D-VHS and want to be sure I'll be able to use it to record off my 34XBR960.


Bada: Do you still want to go through with the XBR purchase in VT or not? Let me know.


----------



## triplex

Sometimes I get different picture quality depending on whether I use a Pioneer HDTV tuner vs the built in one. Some channels that appear snowy in the Sony look clearer when going throught the Pioneer. One funny thing I have noticed is when there is text displayed on the screen in 4:3 format the left vertical edge bulges on the same horizontal axis as where the text is. When the text goes away the little bulge also disappears. So if there are 4 lines of text I have four little bulges and the left vertical border looks wavy. I wonder if this is a geometry issue or if this happens on all TVs, or maybe it is just an issue with my Time Warner signal.


----------



## triplex

I believe I read in perfect vision magazine about a month or two ago that there is a law that says cable providers must offer a firewire capable HDTV box. When I called Time Warner the rep says they didn't have one, and then he asked around and found out they have one made by Scientific Atlanta. But I have read here that if you use a firewire connection you lose the channel guide features of the cable box.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

Triplex: Thats a geometry issue. follow a line across the screen and you will notice it curve upwards or downwards.... there is a answer to this thhough. I was talking to an employee at sony style and he said to fix this issue, one must call a tech and have then "degauss" the set with a large magnet.


----------



## snclawson

My replacement XBR960 finally came in on Friday. Circuit City where I live has never had the set on general sale yet, it's still a special order item here (they had to special order the replacement set!). It only took about a week for the special order to come in though, so they've got the sets somewhere. This new one was manufactured in July.


This one's geometry is very good, along with the horizontal convergence (that was the real problem with the old one, the red horizontal convergence was way off down the left side). The vertical convergence is a little bit off on each size, but nothing that can't be cleaned up in the service menu. I seem to have gotten a set with one of the funky tuner that people have mentioned here though. I didn't do the auto-setup at first (I don't know if that's a factor; I didn't want to wait the 50+ minutes and checked the picture out with the Dish 811 hooked up through HDMI). When I did an auto-program later it couldn't find any of the digital channels (off-air or over cable) and the analog channels looked like complete garbage. However, after turning the tv off and back on they look fabulous and the auto-program found them all. I've had problems once since then when turning on the TV and it couldn't tune in either the off-air or cable HD channels. Turning off the tv and back on fixed it though. If this continues to happen then I'll call Sony up to have them come look at it.


All in all, I'm much happier with the replacement TV; the picture looks great...just in time for the Olympics! =)


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

SNClawson,


Same EXACT thing happened to me! The 2nd set had NEAR perfect geometry, but had a tuner problem. The 3rd set had almost bad geometry (vertically) and the tuner problem. The question you have to ask yourself is this: What happens if you turn it off and then turn it back on, and it does not fix it. About the tech: they are MORONS!!!!! I argued with one for 45 minutes saying it the tv set and they said: its the cable, equipment, antenna, power and whatever else. My advice: buy the 36XS955. It will look probably just as good and is only 1 inch smaller (33"). Of course, the tuners they use in these sets will probably be the same as the 960's....


And remember..its not all tuners. Some work, some do not. My 1st 960 tuner did not show any problems...


----------



## juandixon

what you should do is ask for everyone's 960 serial number and whether their set worked or not. Maybe the early batches had a bug in them. Or a certain range of models had some sort of manufactoring defect. It would be interesting to see if the higher serial numbers have less problems.


all products whether its tv or an os will have bugs, especially early in their version life. who knows it could just well be a firmware bug in the tv set itself that needs a simple patch.


remember this set is very very new even though its an upgrade from 910 look how much bugs win2k had over win95 on its "upgrade".


i do hope everyone gets their set worked out


----------



## juandixon

also in regards to the tuner problem, are you running through a powered indoor ant or outdoor antenna? i think OTA is the most unreliable source for obvious reasons, and it seems like most ppl's problems are with related with OTA.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

The antenna has NOTHING to do with it. If it does, why does turning it on and off again fix the problem?


----------



## juandixon

the antenna could be sharing a bad power source with the tv assuming its powered. also you power could be dirty. not enough juice or too much juice getting into ur tv thus the power fluctiations. i know my computers are very sensitive to power i don't see why a tv set with a mobo isn't much different.


----------



## Playdrv4me




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by bada_
> *At least another 5 years? Damn, didnt think it was that long.
> 
> 
> Figured I would point out that he loses an inch in 16:9, since he already finds the set too small.
> 
> 
> Also, no firewire in the 955 could be a dealbreaker for some.*



These are good points. I think the XS955 is a great set, but I really want the Wide screen, Cable Card, Firewire and oddly enough... something thats not mentioned frequently... the 32 Bit Menus.


I think im going to have to buckle down and give this set a try. I am going to wait a couple of more weeks to see if I can land the KE-32TS2 Plasma for around 2000.00 shipped, but if not I will be purchasing the KD.


Ian.


----------



## snclawson




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by juandixon_
> *also in regards to the tuner problem, are you running through a powered indoor ant or outdoor antenna? i think OTA is the most unreliable source for obvious reasons, and it seems like most ppl's problems are with related with OTA.*



It's an unpowered indoor antenna; I had the same problem with HD on cable connection too though (also without any amplification). This is exactly the same configuration that I had running for 2 1/2 weeks with the previous XBR960 (which had zero problems with the tuner), so it's definetely the new TV.


----------



## 56Oval




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by snclawson_
> *
> 
> 
> I seem to have gotten a set with one of the funky tuner that people have mentioned here though. I didn't do the auto-setup at first (I don't know if that's a factor; I didn't want to wait the 50+ minutes and checked the picture out with the Dish 811 hooked up through HDMI). When I did an auto-program later it couldn't find any of the digital channels (off-air or over cable) and the analog channels looked like complete garbage. However, after turning the tv off and back on they look fabulous and the auto-program found them all. I've had problems once since then when turning on the TV and it couldn't tune in either the off-air or cable HD channels. Turning off the tv and back on fixed it though. If this continues to happen then I'll call Sony up to have them come look at it.
> 
> 
> All in all, I'm much happier with the replacement TV; the picture looks great...just in time for the Olympics! =)*



Hi there,


My set sounds like a twin of yours. Good geometry, but messed tuner.


I'm trying to figure out what range is serial numbers have this problem (if we can track it down)


My serial is: 80002135


What's yours? I wonder if they're close?


What is the higest serial number anyone has? I'm guessing from the number that I have set #2135 built.


Anyone with good geometry (like mine) but with a good tuner? What's your serial?


MW


----------



## 56Oval




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by juandixon_
> *the antenna could be sharing a bad power source with the tv assuming its powered. also you power could be dirty. not enough juice or too much juice getting into ur tv thus the power fluctiations. i know my computers are very sensitive to power i don't see why a tv set with a mobo isn't much different.*



My set does it too.


It powers up about half the time with no HD reception (ATSC tuner). It takes a complete power off and back on to fix it.


My antenna is not powered. My TV is hooked to a 600W UPS. It's not a problem with the power source.


It is a problem with the set. I'm trying to find out the serial number of other TV's with the same problem. Mine is 80002135.


MW


----------



## snclawson

56Oval,


The new TV's serial is 800458X (good picture, bad tuner). The old one (bad geometry, good tuner) was 800353X.


The main difference between the two when I set them up was that on the second set I didn't do the initial auto-program. I noticed that JBW had the same issue with his sets (bad tuner on sets that he didn't do the initial auto-program). How about you? It could just be a coincidence.


I did reset the TV last night (p45 of the manual; turn the TV on, hold down reset on the remote then turn the TV off (on the TV), wait for a bit and then release reset on the remote). This dosen't seem to affect the service menu settings at all, but it does let you run the initial setup again. So I had it auto-program this time. So far I haven't had any problems with the tuner flaking out, but I've only turned the TV on a couple times this morning.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

I tried that as well. Reset it, then ran the auto program. That will not fix the problem. In fact, the tuner could not pick up HDTV signals through the auto program. I had to turn it off, then on again to get it to auto program... So what are you going to do people? Keep the set or exchange it for a working one? I decided to actually go the 36XS955 route...


----------



## 56Oval




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by JamisonBWolsh_
> *I tried that as well. Reset it, then ran the auto program. That will not fix the problem. In fact, the tuner could not pick up HDTV signals through the auto program. I had to turn it off, then on again to get it to auto program... So what are you going to do people? Keep the set or exchange it for a working one? I decided to actually go the 36XS955 route...*



Hi Jamison,


I see you preaching the 36XS955 all the time. You said you even have one pre-ordered. I don't have any problem with that, and I myself have even considered the 955 for larger viewing of SD programming.


But my question is: What makes you so sure the 955 won't suffer similar "new model" issues as the 960 does?


You seem to be preaching the 955 as a solution to the problems of the 960. I don't see how this is the case at all.


Perhaps the 955 will have some major problems with the brand new 4:3 tube, or the electronics? Maybe it won't. Dollars to doughnuts it will use the _exact_ same HD tuner, and could suffer the exact same problem.


I just don't think replying to messages about the 960 with "buy the new unreleased unproven 955" is the right message to send.


I think the 955 should be recommended if someone is questioning whether to buy a high-end 4:3 or 16:9 TV.


Not trying to be a jerk, just an observation.


MW


----------



## 56Oval




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by snclawson_
> *56Oval,
> 
> 
> The new TV's serial is 800458X (good picture, bad tuner). The old one (bad geometry, good tuner) was 800353X.
> 
> 
> The main difference between the two when I set them up was that on the second set I didn't do the initial auto-program. I noticed that JBW had the same issue with his sets (bad tuner on sets that he didn't do the initial auto-program). How about you? It could just be a coincidence.
> 
> *




I aborted the initial auto-setup on my TV when I first turned it on because I didn't have the antenna hooked to it.


I then later ran the auto-program once I had it hooked up.


Let us know how your re-setup goes. That would be sweet if it fixes it all. But I guess that I would be surprised if this would be fix the problem. It seems like some electrical/signal issue with the tuner chip. :-(


MW


----------



## snclawson

So far so good, but then again it wasn't like it was _always_ bad when I'd turn it on, although it does seem to happen mainly after the set had been off for a while. Then again, I've only had it since Saturday afternoon, so I haven't had all that much time with it yet.


Whatever it is, I'll be fixing it through Sony though, as Circuit City dosen't seem interested in helping me out after I returned their overpriced `5-year' service agreement...and of course I'm now past their `30 day' return window (ordered (and paid for!) the set on the 13th of July, but it took until the 27th before they had it in...).


Actually, my recent experience with Circuit City almost was annoying enough to just return the TV and HTIB there and wait out the month and a half until the 36xs955 comes out, but my Fiance would kill me and we're back to the original reason I got the XBR960...it's available now. =) (and the Olympics are on...even with that uber-annoying Sony commercial). I really hope that the 36XS955 dosen't have the same problems as the XBR960, but I'd be inclined to think that it would have _more_ problems, not less. The guts of the TV are probably essentially identical to the XBR960 (ie. new for this year), but the tube is also new. At least I haven't seen a 4:3 super fine pitch tube on Sony Japanese site, so I'm assuming that it's a new tube.


Actually, that brings up another question. Just what is the Japanese model equivalent of the XBR960? Is it the KD-36HR500? I really wish that they sold the KD-36HD900 here. It looks like the old 34" XBR800/HS510, but with a Super Fine Pitch tube.


----------



## MikhailS

Seeing that the tuners are a common problem, I am exchanging the tv I got from the CC for another unit. Hopefully this will fix the tuner issues but keep the picture as good as my current one.


As to CC 30-days policy, I was told today that the period starts whenever you get the tv (In my case I paid on 7/17 and got the unit delivered on 7/19). I originally thought of going with their repair service (I got 3 years extended warranty), but at the end decided to exchange it. Try the customer service at the CC you bought the TV.


Mikhail



> Quote:
> _Originally posted by snclawson_
> *So far so good, but then again it wasn't like it was _always_ bad when I'd turn it on, although it does seem to happen mainly after the set had been off for a while. Then again, I've only had it since Saturday afternoon, so I haven't had all that much time with it yet.
> 
> 
> Whatever it is, I'll be fixing it through Sony though, as Circuit City dosen't seem interested in helping me out after I returned their overpriced `5-year' service agreement...and of course I'm now past their `30 day' return window (ordered (and paid for!) the set on the 13th of July, but it took until the 27th before they had it in...).
> 
> 
> Actually, my recent experience with Circuit City almost was annoying enough to just return the TV and HTIB there and wait out the month and a half until the 36xs955 comes out, but my Fiance would kill me and we're back to the original reason I got the XBR960...it's available now. =) (and the Olympics are on...even with that uber-annoying Sony commercial). I really hope that the 36XS955 dosen't have the same problems as the XBR960, but I'd be inclined to think that it would have _more_ problems, not less. The guts of the TV are probably essentially identical to the XBR960 (ie. new for this year), but the tube is also new. At least I haven't seen a 4:3 super fine pitch tube on Sony Japanese site, so I'm assuming that it's a new tube.
> 
> 
> Actually, that brings up another question. Just what is the Japanese model equivalent of the XBR960? Is it the KD-36HR500? I really wish that they sold the KD-36HD900 here. It looks like the old 34" XBR800/HS510, but with a Super Fine Pitch tube.*


----------



## snclawson

Oh well, so much for my theory. I came home tonight, turned the TV on and `No Signal.' Off and back on and it's perfect. Sigh. It actually seems to be more sensitive than the other XBR960 I had, when it does work, which is just bizzare.


Oh well, as far as it goes, I'd much rather have this one that looks great, but requires me to turn it on twice than one that has it's convergence all jacked up. The only thing that scares me is the thought of the Sony tech screwing up the tube if they come in to replace/fix the tuner.


As for Circuit City, I'm sure that I could argue that I never got the TV until the 27th, but since I've already exchanged the TV once and returned the extended warranty, they were considerably less friendly when I picked up the replacement unit and didn't seem interested in helping me out at all. =( I'm sure it didn't help that both the original and replacement unit had to be special ordered.


----------



## snclawson

Oh, at least for the special order, everyone that I talked to at Circuit City claimed that the 30 days starts the day you order the product.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

SNCLAWSON, talk to the regional manager. If you keep this set, how do you know the tuner will not "break down" at a later date? If they do a 3rd exchange, make sure you get across that you would like to extend the 30 days. Thats what i did....


----------



## 56Oval

Jamison's mention of the 955 made me think about something that I am curious about concerning 16:9 and 4:3 sets.


Ignoring all zoom/stretch modes and viewing 16:9 and 4:3 content in their native mode...


If the 955 has the same 1400 line display as the 960, doesn't that mean that when viewing 16:9 content on the 4:3 monitor you are viewing it on only about 1000 of those lines? The rest are blanked out with the top and bottom bars. (If viewing 4:3 material on a the 4:3 955 set you would of course get all 1400 lines.)


But if viewing 4:3 material on the 16:9 960 monitor (in 4:3 mode), you aren't losing any lines because the 4:3 still fills up all 1400 vertial lines.


Does this sound right to everyone?


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

Very good question.....basically you are saying that viewing 16:9 material on a 4:3 reduces the quality over that of the 16:9 widescreen set? Good question... someone should answer this question.


----------



## JoshKaner

re: the 1000 line vs. 1400 line question mentioned earlier, on my 27 trinitron (non-hd), there is a mode called 16:9 enhanced. What that does is change the raster of the gun from 4:3 to 16:9, so perhaps the 955 would have this feature, enabling it to draw the 1400 lines in a 16:9 window...


----------



## snclawson

The 1400 lines is the horizontal resolution, not the vertical resolution. The enhanced mode just squeezes in the vertical direction, so there's no difference between the two sets there. The XBR960 shows the full 1080 vertical resolution for 1080i. The XS955 will still be displaying the same 1080 lines vertically, just compressed into the 16:9 part of the set. With the way the Trinitron aperture grill is designed, there's not really a set vertical resolution for the set (ok, to a point...but the set it made up of vertical slits for Red, Green and Blue), so assuming that the phosphors are the same general size (height) as the XBR960, it should be able to resolve all 1080 lines, since the 16:9 area is pretty similar between the two sets.


Now for 4:3 material, the 36XS955 should have a ridiculous resolution advantage over the 34" sets. Of course you'd have to have a PC hooked up to actually generate a 4:3 signal with that much information. =)


----------



## Phantastica

More bad news with my 34XBR960 today. I've noticed a dark patch on the left hand side of the screen about 1/3 the way up the screen. It looks like it's about an inch or two large and it comes out about just as much. It noticeably darkens the screen in that area. I don't think it was there a week ago. I keep my brightness/picture turned down and am constantly viewing a mix of material, so I really don't think it's any sort of burn in.


----------



## daumier

first of all - sorry about my rudimentary terminology - I'm fairly new in the world of hi def tv.


Can anyone tell me what 'bad geometry' looks like? I'm not sure if this falls under this category, but I notice that, when viewing 4:3 materials in regular mode, i.e. with vertical black bars on both sides of the pictures, the bars do not appear to be straight. They seem to bow slightly on top.


Also, I notice that when the picture is showing letters or words on screen, there appears to be a thin line that bounds each letter (almost looks like a ghost img or shadow).


Other than that, I cant really complain. I cant check the OTA tuner because of my location (we're on the first floor of a multistory condominium and we're surrounded by other tall buildings). And the DVD pic, I must say, looks incredible (I have a plain ol' Toshiba SD2109 - interlaced pic). For example, I no longer notice any shimmering when viewing images that have cross hatches (e.g. like screen doors).


thx


D


----------



## Acksull

I've had my 960 since July 10. Serial number 8002689. Tuner has worked fine. No problems at all. I bought an HDtivo last week so I'm now using the tivo's OTA tuner and the HDMI input. The 960's tuner has a slightly sharper/cleaner picture then the Tivo's but I'll take that tradeoff for the HD recording capabilities.


I had some geometry issues that could really only be noticed on a 4:3 picture. The right top corner kind of curved. I also noticed that I wasn't getting much overscan. The logo on HDNET was cut off at the "T". I'm no ISF tech, but I went into the service menu yesterday and patched both problems with the geometry settings.


Been watching the olympics and preseason football in 16x9 HD...awesome. Looking forward to watching my Rams in HD on NFL Ticket this season.


----------



## 56Oval




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Acksull_
> *I've had my 960 since July 10. Serial number 8002689. Tuner has worked fine. No problems at all. I bought an HDtivo last week so I'm now using the tivo's OTA tuner and the HDMI input. The 960's tuner has a slightly sharper/cleaner picture then the Tivo's but I'll take that tradeoff for the HD recording capabilities.
> *



Hi Acksull,


Tell me about your HDTivo!! Is it the $1000 DirectTV model with the OTA tuner?


My wife doesn't buy into the whole new HDTV because there is no Tivo functionality. And it hurts me to watch stuff recorded on the Tivo in SD.


Anyhow, sounds like there is no obvious patten to bad tuners. I guess that's good news. I'll start exchanging sets until I get a winner. It's just hauling a 200lb. TV back to the store isn't my idea of fun!


----------



## cad_3




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by JamisonBWolsh_
> *I tried that as well. Reset it, then ran the auto program. That will not fix the problem. In fact, the tuner could not pick up HDTV signals through the auto program. I had to turn it off, then on again to get it to auto program... So what are you going to do people? Keep the set or exchange it for a working one? I decided to actually go the 36XS955 route...*



Man, I feel really really lucky to have one that has both good geometry and a good tuner. This morning, I turned on my set, and normally I don't have enough signal strength for the HD stations... But it came in crystal clear this morning... right from start up... HD Olympics










I do used an indoor powered antenna, but I'm more than 40 miles from any towers...


I'm keeping it... (and drooling alot)... Tossed in Nemo for the first time last night... and the colors from the coral are incredible. Basic HD Olympics from the swimming pool are outstanding! I knew this was going to happen... now that I have that damn tv, my tv watching time has increased, practically doubled! 










-C


----------



## cad_3




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by snclawson_
> *(and the Olympics are on...even with that uber-annoying Sony commercial).*



Thank you! I thought I was the only one going to go postal since they show that commercial... that very same commercial every 10 minutes... I'm going nuts! I actually turn to another channel to not have to even hear it anymore.


SONY! If you're listening. Mix it up! Get a second Damn commercial! 

-C


----------



## juandixon

if you don't mind posting ur serial number maybe u have a later batch?


----------



## cad_3




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by daumier_
> *first of all - sorry about my rudimentary terminology - I'm fairly new in the world of hi def tv.
> 
> 
> Can anyone tell me what 'bad geometry' looks like? I'm not sure if this falls under this category, but I notice that, when viewing 4:3 materials in regular mode, i.e. with vertical black bars on both sides of the pictures, the bars do not appear to be straight. They seem to bow slightly on top.
> 
> 
> Also, I notice that when the picture is showing letters or words on screen, there appears to be a thin line that bounds each letter (almost looks like a ghost img or shadow).
> *



Hey D,


If you can afford it, I cannot recommend strongly enough, get a professional calibrator (sp?). It'll run between $200-$350. I'd ask around to make sure you're getting a really good one.


If you cannot afford it (hey, after blowing ~2k on a TV, maybe now is not that best time to start throwing a few hundred more out the door)... then get a calibration disc, sit down and do it yourself. It'll take a long time but you can clear the ghosting and tighen up the bowing on your own... in the service menu.


I paid, and let me tell you, I'm glad I did. The picture is even better than out of the box (and it was darn good then)...

-C


----------



## cad_3




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by juandixon_
> *if you don't mind posting ur serial number maybe u have a later batch?*



I don't mind posting it, but I don't have a later batch. I was the one of the first to get it in the Bay Area. If anything, I've an earlier batch, and have had it for quiet a while now










-C


----------



## juandixon

i believe and hope ur situation is the norm and not the exception. really looking forward on getting this set.


----------



## gundyrat1

my only complaint is the rather dismal OTA SD reception

on most channels. this just may be my set top Antenna also.

It's watchable but sometimes fuzzy.

As for the Olympics I have been using twin view a lot placing the Hd channel on the left side and the SD channel of the dish on the right side,


and toggle back anf forth Especially when that Stupid Comercial comes on.


The SD feed on a plain jane Directv box is more of a True 480i

there is a marked improvement switching from OTA SD to Dish Fed SD


I Ordered a 6 foot optical From C.....Lt for the Digtial out feed to the reciever. I've just about run out of Digital Audio inputs.

Switching back and forth from the OTA to the dish sometimes gets confusing.

Kinda disapointed the remote doesn't recognize my Sony SAT-A1 DirecTV

vintage 96

without manually reprogramming it.


----------



## spongebob

Kinda disapointed the remote doesn't recognize my Sony SAT-A1 DirecTV

vintage 96

without manually reprogramming it.


SAT-A1= Great receiver, awesome video quality compared to modern IRD's










bob


----------



## 56Oval

Well, I took back serial #8002135 (great Geom, bad tuner) tonight and got the only other one they had in stock, #8002210.


Upon turning it on I allowed it to auto program itself. Guess what??? It didn't find a single Digial Channel.


So I powered it off. Did a factory reset and sure enough after auto programming itself again, it has found 159 channels as of 20 minutes into the search.


So I am pretty positive I am going to have the same problem on this one. And I'm very positive that I'll pull my 27" SD Sony back out of the closet, and this will be my last 960 until around the end of the year or when they have a new production batch out and have fixed the bug.


I bet a lot of people don't report the problem because they aren't doing OTA HD. They're probably just hooking it to a satellite reciever or something via HDMI.


I think I am going to cry. I just want to give Sony a couple thousand dollars and have a TV that works properly. Is that too much to ask?!?


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

Thats what I been saying all along. For a top of the line sony tv set, one should expect it to work properly. As more and more people are buying this set, I notice MANY poeple are now having this problem. And this is a problem.


I have decided to jump ship from the 960 to the 955 (not released yet). Do you know the saying 3 chances and your out? Well, the 960 struck out for me.


I am sort of happy that happened because I realized that 16:9 hdtv is not the best thing yet. MOst shows are still SD and everything wont be changed over for another 5 years. Watching SD is Horrible on this set. Eithor have a 4:3 27" with black bars or do a wide zoom with portions of the pic cut off (also degrading the pQ) I am going to buy i set that I will be happy with for the next 5 years. I just hope this new set wont have the same problems the 960 shows.....


----------



## mikeny

I got my xbr960 isf calibrated last weekend and it's made an incredible improvement. It was definitely worth it. The colors seem perfect and brightness levels etc, likewise. I had tried working with the AVIA disk myself but I didn't think I knew what I was doing to be frank. The calibration included necessary service menu tweaks that I definitely wouldn't have attempted anyway.


I've taken to watching standard directv through s-video and HD programming through the HDMI input. All the inputs were calibrated independently, including dvd.


It's very cool to be able to get OTA SD/DT channels right into the tv. You can use the Twin View function and have 2 live programs goin at once (albeit only 1 scrambled channel in this setup). I need to get my antenna tweaked or swapped to get a couple other stations coming in but the tv tuner seems fine. It easily switches channels and when I toggle between inputs or on air/off air, there's no hiccup at all.


----------



## BTV Mark

I thought I'd stop back in here and comment.


I have '960 S/N 8003116. I'm using it exclusively OTAno cable, no satellite. I live in one of the close-in Chicago suburbs, so there are a lot of OTA signals.


I am very pleased with this set. It's performance on OTA analog is fair, but I am very impressed with SD digital. And, of course, it's excellent on HDTV. Maybe I got lucky, but I have not had any problems with this set. The only thing I would change is to be able to see digital channels in the index mode. (And, it would be nice if you could store freeze frames on a memory card.)


I am still trying to get more information on the recommended minimum signal strength. My diagnostic panel indicates from 27 S/N (85 signal strength) to 34 S/N (98 signal strength) on the various channels. I went back to the store where I bought it, and checked their readingsalmost the same as mine! So I asked the salesman. He said check with Service. I asked at the Service desk. He didn't have a clue. But he did patch me through to their service manager. He wasn't sure what I was talking about. I told him I could show him on their floor sample, so he came down and looked. His response? Wow. They didn't tell us about this. He suggested I'm fine, and I should stop worrying and enjoy the set. I suppose he's right.


But I still want to know more about Sony's recommended signal strength. I want to know what Sony speficies as the minimum value for their set to operate properly. Does anyone have the service manual, maybe this would have more information.


Mark


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

Buying a XBR960 is like playing Roulette...... You dont know if the tv set your buying is the chamber with the bullet. If your mind is set in buying this set. Wait a year...


----------



## AgWagon

Jamison,


No offense, but you are becoming a complete downer to this thread. Your problems with the 960 have been well documented and your position on it is clear by now. Could you please cease with the negative remarks or at least take them somewhere else; some of us are still enthusiastic about the set.


----------



## juandixon

agreed i know a few guys who are absolutely estatic about their set.










bad geometry can always be fixed. bad tuner probably means u need a better ota signal. also just because one gets a good ota sd signal doesn't mean their ota hd signal is gonna be good too. and sadly lotta ppl who think that just because they have an hdtv that they will automatically get ota hd are wrong. signal strength and clarity and other factors are involved much more so than sd ota.


also since the 955 and 960 are similar in specs then what makes you think that you won't get the same problems? they probably share very similar tuner technology if not the same tuner...


----------



## spider4re




> Quote:
> Jamison,
> 
> No offense, but you are becoming a complete downer to this thread.




I second that. Chill out dude. I have been 100% happy with my 960. I haven't posted in awhile because I have been happily enjoying the Olympics, preseason football, PBS, etc! I think every major product has the chance to have something wrong with it (cars, electronics etc.) Its part of life. You are lucky enough to have been able to return three sets with only the annoyance of having to have someone come out and pick them up. I agree with you that there is a bug in these sets but it will all work out. Just relax man. Enjoy life. Focus all this negative energy on something positive!










on a side note, is anyone using VOOM with your 960? How is the reception (OTA) compared to the 960's onboard tuner? Do you get any pixelization on the VOOM HD channels?


----------



## daumier




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by cad_3_
> *Hey D,
> 
> 
> If you can afford it, I cannot recommend strongly enough, get a professional calibrator (sp?). It'll run between $200-$350. I'd ask around to make sure you're getting a really good one.
> 
> 
> If you cannot afford it (hey, after blowing ~2k on a TV, maybe now is not that best time to start throwing a few hundred more out the door)... then get a calibration disc, sit down and do it yourself. It'll take a long time but you can clear the ghosting and tighen up the bowing on your own... in the service menu.
> 
> 
> I paid, and let me tell you, I'm glad I did. The picture is even better than out of the box (and it was darn good then)...
> 
> -C*



I am actually quite interested in getting an ISF calibration. However, I have never gotten a definitive answer whether or not such calibration would void the warranty. Any thoughts? comments? experience? thx! D


----------



## eganders

JuanDixon:


Actually I don't think it's lack of signal. I have a whopper of an antenna and get great numbers. There is a minor problem on my set with the tuner startup when it's cold. However it only happens on digital OTA, and within a minute or so of warming up - or if I tune a different analog channel first, it fixes itself. It's really just a minor nuisance.


As for the bashing:

I too am quite sorry that Jamison has continued to complain. I hope he soon purchases, and is able to keep, another set. And for the sake of some other respectable thread out there, I really hope he gets the best damn set ever made, that it is perfect in every way and the best value ever!


Let all of us who have purchased and are happy with our 960's live in peace, forever more.


----------



## juandixon

i am very curious to see how the 960 hd tuner compares with other hd tuners on the same ota hd source.


----------



## silvertone

I live in Plano, TX and I've been on the waiting list for over a month to get this set from a national chain store here. Last time I talked to the sales guy he told me that Sony has stopped production on this set until further notice. Can anyone confirm or deny this? There has to be someone out there that works for sony, or knows someone that does that can answer that.


Thanks


----------



## juandixon

i talked to a sony store rep and said that no production halt, its just that the set is so new with so much orders that its hard to fill demand. frankly i don't trust anything sales tell me especially from gg,cc,bb, etc.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

So you believe a rep from a sony store. The sony store is owned by sony. Sony does not want poeple to know there is a halt on production. Hmmmmm... do you think SONY would tell ITS OWN workers to tell its customers there is a halt in production? I dont think so... I WOULD believe a rep from BB, CC, or GG over a sony rep any day... Now I am not saying there IS a halt in production, I am just saying be carefull WHO you believe...


----------



## juandixon

"I WOULD believe a rep from BB, CC, or GG over a sony rep any day"










i bet in silvertone's situation, that he was told a production halt as a way to get his mind off of a set that they probably didn't have any stock of, AND therefore sell him a set that they did have stock of. lol typical sale's trick. i know i WAS IN SALES LOLOLOLOLOL


abc on sales: always be closing, preorders suck cuz your not getting the full monty plus the customer can always change their mind later.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

As for the negative comments. You got a good set! Great, I am happy for you! However, when I have to go through HELL 3 different times on 3 different weekends, you would be mad! I can see a problem with 1 set, ok, fine that happens.... BUT 3 times in a row? AND everytime, having to FIGHT with the delivery people saying its the tuner, not the cables/antenna/equipment. I will not "calm down" or let it be. There IS a PROBLEM with these sets. People must be warned so this does not happen to them. Should I not say anything? I dont think so. If sony delivered a working set, i would not be making these comments. Think about.


----------



## juandixon

just curious jb if you had any another hdtv set(outside of 960) work properly on ur current ota source?


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

I thought we already discussed this at length? Its a tuner problem inside the tv set. Not THE ANTENNA! my first xbr960 tuner worked wonderfully.


----------



## juandixon

your not answering my question, have you ever tried another hdtv set besides the kd34xbr960?


again i am not saying ur wrong, just trying to follow a logical process of elimination.


also after ur first set, is it possible that any damage may have occurred to ur antenna, cables, etc maybe during transition to the new set?


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

I live in an apartment complex that has an $$$ antenna of their own. (BTW, the cc manager got into a fight with me saying that apartment buildings no longer have antennas- go figure). There is only one connection for the antenna and that is one cable running from the wall to the antenna input on the set. The cable is fine and the antenna is not powered because of the SHEER size of it. I can get all hdtv signals from every station broadcasted in my area.


As for trying another set besides the 960 (first one- tuner worked), I have not. Not many sets out there that has a tuner integrated. I dont need to get into this discussion again. Its a tuner issue as proven by other members and owners


----------



## cad_3




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by gundyrat1_
> *As for the Olympics I have been using twin view a lot placing the Hd channel on the left side and the SD channel of the dish on the right side,
> *



*LOL* I see I'm not the only one.




> Quote:
> *and toggle back anf forth Especially when that Stupid Comercial comes on.
> *



Yup!

As for optical audio... I messed up and only got a 3' one!







So, now I have to wait until I build my stand this weekend and then I can make sure it's close enough to plug in. I'm just worried it'll be a tight fit. Worse, I can't seem to make the optical 1 input work w/ the reciever. Input #2 works just fine, so I might have 1 extra unusable cable.


Anyone ever try to get a company to fix an input you'd never used before beyond the 30 trial period? I've had the set for about 2-3 months, I've just never used Optical 1 before. It's an Onkyo receiver for what it's worth...

-C


----------



## cad_3




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by daumier_
> *I am actually quite interested in getting an ISF calibration. However, I have never gotten a definitive answer whether or not such calibration would void the warranty. Any thoughts? comments? experience? thx! D*



No, it doesn't void the warranty. They don't open up the box or anything. Just attach a device to the screen attached to a laptop. Pull up the outputs on a laptop, and fix it so that it's dead on. Then they'll go into your service menu and align the RGB so they are also dead on (hence crisp picture).


If you have any questions, talk w/ the guy before hand and let me know. For me, if I was unhappy, I could undo everything he did by reseting it to the factory defaults (no way in hell... but technically I -could- do that).


Cheers mate,


-C


----------



## Ppuno

Just want to chime in here...I've had my xbr960 for about 5 days now and I love it! My wife also watches the HD NBC broadcast side by side with the SD version. I've been checking in the Sacramento area for ISF calibration and have been quoted estimates from $250 to $425. But they said wait for 1-2 months before having it done.


----------



## snclawson

My two cents on the tuner problem, since my replacement set has a bad tuner that behaves in exactly the same manner as the other's have reported.


I get a `No signal' on digital channels when the TV has been off for a while, both the on-air and cable connections. Checking the diagnostics page shows exactly this, that the tuner dosen't believe it's getting a signal! Turning off the tv and then back on (so far) has always fixed the problem and I get a great picture. This is exactly the same setup that I used with the previous 960 with zero problems. As a further data point, it's also the setup that worked flawlessly with my Dish 811 and it's off-air tuner, along with an LG ATSC/QAM tuner.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

The amazing thing about the whiners here is that there could easily be something simple like a cold solder or something on the antenna input that would keep them from getting a good signal until the set warms up.


If they simply did as I did, GET THE SET FIXED instead of playing Russian Roulette, they would most likely have a working TV by now.


So you have to have them work on it....whoopee.....do you want a working set or just to complain? Is it easier to get it repaired or lug TVs back and forth from the store.


Maybe you like going into the store with returns. But it appears its likely that you just want to complain.


If you want a perfect set out the box, I guess you shouldn't need an ICF calibration should you? That eliminates about 100% of the sets sold.


Give it a rest.


----------



## 56Oval




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by HDTVFanAtic_
> *The amazing thing about the whiners here is that there could easily be something simple like a cold solder or something on the antenna input that would keep them from getting a good signal until the set warms up.
> 
> 
> If they simply did as I did, GET THE SET FIXED instead of playing Russian Roulette, they would most likely have a working TV by now.
> 
> 
> So you have to have them work on it....whoopee.....do you want a working set or just to complain? Is it easier to get it repaired or lug TVs back and forth from the store.
> 
> 
> Maybe you like going into the store with returns. But it appears its likely that you just want to complain.
> 
> 
> If you want a perfect set out the box, I guess you shouldn't need an ICF calibration should you? That eliminates about 100% of the sets sold.
> 
> 
> Give it a rest.*




This tuner problem is a real problem and not an antenna problem like some are suggesting.


My set #2 was a bust. Tuner is even worse than the first. The TV has to be warmed up for about two minutes. Then turned off, then turned back on to get any HD signal reception (OTA and cable sources) Perhaps it is a solder joint or something trivial. Maybe something more sinister . If the TV is off for more than about a hour it has to be warmed up again to get reception.


I agree. Lugging a TV back and forth for exchange it no solution to the problem. So, I opened a ticket with Sony. They said the TV needs to get mailed to San Diego to get repaired by Sony themselves, or through a local repair place. I called a local shop and they reported that there aren't even parts in the channel to repair the 960 yet. So am I going to spend $2000 on a TV to let it go sit at a repair place? I don't think so.


So I'm going back one last time to exhange it. I'm going to make the Retailer open the box of the new one and plug the TV in and hook up the OTA antenna in the store. If it doesn't detect any digital signal on first power up, I'll try another one until I get on that does. 


And if all that fails, I'll take a little vacation from the 960 for a few months until they fix these initial production problems.


It is the most incredible HD set I've ever seen. I'm still rabidly in love with my set, but am just looking for one that works every time I turn it on. That's not too much to ask, right?


But I hope sharing my story will go to help others in dealing with the same problem and won't be seen as bashing the TV. It is an incredible set.


MW


----------



## BloatedCorpse

..nicely put MW. I'm an owner that's been up and down with this set. I love the HD picture, and trying to work out the geometry thru tech visits or possibly a return is not something I look forward to, but after trying to live with it, it just drove me too nuts (as well as my wife, who I'm sure will leaved me after how anal I've been over this tv), so now I'm awaiting a fix. I'm willing to go through the hoops for this one, but could I or should I endorse this set....I don't know...I'm not maniacally bitter, but I do feel a little weary after three 34HS510's and now a 960 with a beautiful, albeit flawed picture. Let's be honest, this TV obviously has some impressive attributes, but will it be remembered for it's stunning display, or it's broken promises.


----------



## dizzyfaust

sometimes i wonder if the peeps with signal/tuner issues ever read the reception/programming forum, or visit satellite guys.


my 960 is sweet, and any burps my reception/tuner etc have had has turned out to be:

1. digital signal loss caused by weather,

2. older bios on the VOOM motorola stb;

3. microstutter, etc, momentary sound/picture loss/channel delay is a characteristic of some digital broadcasts. read.


all issues are either fixed or go away.


i enjoy widescreen anamorphic , the olympics in hd, and i even get bob spants in clear and crisp.


go voom









my .02us


----------



## RJB in Phila

My first XBR960 had a tuner problem as I've previously reported here. The second one has worked flawlessly for the past few weeks. Since the cable wiring and connections didn't change, it must have been a tuner problem on the first set. So I think that there really is a tuner problem on some (probably a small percentage) of these sets.


However, I am still glad I ordered the set despite the problems with the first, since the picture quality on HDTV and DVD's is fantastic and SD is just fine. My daughter was watching a DVD last night on our older 27" Panasonic and I was shocked at how poor the picture quality looked in comparison to the XBR960. I said "how can you watch that thing!"


----------



## TennBikeBerk

Hey guys,


I placed an order with CC for my KD-34XBR960 but they do not have it in stock, and neither does their warehouse.


My first question is, for the 30 day money back guarantee, when does that start? Is it when I get my tv, or when I placed the order. The salesperson says he guesses it will be two weeks before they receive more, and having only one week to return it if necessary is cutting it a little close.


The other thing I am wondering about is the tuner. It seems certain people have had bad luck with the tuner. Right now I am just using analog cable, but down the road I will probably be upgrading to either digital cable or satelitte, and possibley some HD in the line-up. If I get digital cable and use the cable card, and find out a year from now my tuner is bust, then what?


I have no OTA HD available in my area, so I can't test things out that way.


----------



## snclawson

I was told that the 30 day money-back guarantee (or even for exchanges!) started the day you ordered your set. This particular stance goes against both customer service in general and the spirit of the `30 day guarantee' in particular, but that's what they said. Personally I think that it's a crock. At least their service agreements start the day you actually get your TV.


Anyway, as for the tuner. You say that you've got cable? and that they offer digital cable in your area? In that case you should be able t o get some channels using the digital tuner in the XBR and try it out immediately. They just have to be unscrambled. In my area this includes the local channels in HD, but also a couple other cheesy channels like the Golf network. When the tuner isn't working you just don't pick up any digital channels, they don't have to be HD.


----------



## RJB in Phila




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by TennBikeBerk_
> *Hey guys,
> 
> 
> I placed an order with CC for my KD-34XBR960 but they do not have it in stock, and neither does their warehouse.
> 
> 
> My first question is, for the 30 day money back guarantee, when does that start? Is it when I get my tv, or when I placed the order. The salesperson says he guesses it will be two weeks before they receive more, and having only one week to return it if necessary is cutting it a little close.
> 
> 
> The other thing I am wondering about is the tuner. It seems certain people have had bad luck with the tuner. Right now I am just using analog cable, but down the road I will probably be upgrading to either digital cable or satelitte, and possibley some HD in the line-up. If I get digital cable and use the cable card, and find out a year from now my tuner is bust, then what?
> 
> 
> I have no OTA HD available in my area, so I can't test things out that way.*



The CC return issue has come up before. My recollection was the CC salesman assured me the 30 days started only once it was delivered but the sales slip said 30 days from the order date. In my case, it was delivered fairly quickly so it wasn't an issue, but I would make sure you either get it in writing that it is 30 days from delivery OR threaten to cancel the order unless they extend the 30 day return period in writing. And of course you could cancel it before the 30 days is up and then re-order it to start the 30 day period again if necessary.


My tuner problems were with both the SD and HD channels and I do not have the STB or satellite. I am just paying for standard analog cable, even though I guess I have a digital connection and I can access some of the digital channels. So I'm not sure if the tuner problems were just with digital cable. My guess is at least my tuner problems were not limited to digital cable.


----------



## rmacdoug

I just purchased a Sony KD-34XBR960 yesterday (S/N: 8004571) . Hooked it up last night straight to Comcast Cable. PQ for SD looks great. Will be getting a CableCARD next Friday, so I'll have to wait for PQ on HD till then. But I really like what I see so far, this is a great TV.


----------



## juandixon

nice just curious where did u purchase urs at? i know most places are backordered.


----------



## dizzyfaust

the 30 day has to be from the time you receive it. if you endorse an express agreement for otherwise then its what your agreement stipulates.


my thinking:

A lives next to the warehouse/dropship and orders his set the day they get in a shipment. he has 30 days to work with.


B lives in 29 palms, and the day he orders the warehouse is clean out. then hurricane jamison hits







he ends up getting his set 31 days later.


both paid the same amount from the same store, yet one is disadvantaged. inequitable. and i'd sue no problem










none. in fact i live three miles from a district courthouse









my .02us


----------



## rmacdoug




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by juandixon_
> *nice just curious where did u purchase urs at? i know most places are backordered.*



Abt Electronics in Glenview, IL http://www.**************.com


----------



## tennberg

Silly question for you all:


My 960 is being delivered this Saturday, 3 days before I was actually expecting it. The delivery is going to be easy for the guys since there's an elevator in my building.


I was wondering, though, how big the *box* is that the TV comes in. I want to see if they will be able to bring the box all the way into the apartment before setting it up.


Thanks!


----------



## Ppuno

For my delivery last Saturday, the CC guys left the box in the truck and just delivered the tv straight into my house. I didn't see the box at all.


----------



## juandixon

i don't think the box will fit thru most standard doors


----------



## TKO

Just took delivery today...


XBR960 box size -> 44"w x 30"d x 31 1/2"h


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

If you didn't see, there is a HUGE ARTICLE in USA Today 8/19/2004, Page 3B....bottom 1/3rd of Page "High definition: It's must-see TV worth the wait"


The TV. (can you guess?), the Sony KD-34XBR960.


Quotes include....


I made it to the opening ceremony of the Olympic Games last week, only I never actually left U.S. soil. At least I felt like I was in Athens, watching the pyrotechnic pageantry on a 34-inch Sony Wega high-definition television.

I've experienced the splendor of HDTV on massive screens at trade shows and (envious sigh) at friends' and relatives' houses. But this was the first time I've soaked in high def in my own family room. Before the arrival of the Wega, and even briefly afterward, I wondered if HDTV at chez Baig was as elusive as a gold medal.


..................


Until recently, the chief factors holding back most mainstream consumers from glitzy TV have been sky-high prices, a paltry supply of programming, and not least, confusion. The confusion part still exists. I wonder if people who buy "HD-ready TVs" understand they'll need a separate tuner. I also imagine most folks still don't know that while HDTV is a digital television, not all digital TVs are HDTVs. Basically, HDTVs are the best of digital televisions.


HDTVs don't carry bargain prices as do some of their analog counterparts. But prices are falling. The Sony Wega (model: KD-34XBR960) I've been testing has a reasonable list price of $2,200; I found online merchants peddling it for less than $1,700.


You might come across smaller screen HD-ready monitors (without tuners) for under $500, though you'll usually pay more. The sexiest of the thin LCD and plasma flat-panel models are still aimed at people who can afford yachts and second homes.


The "direct-view" Sony is based on old-fashioned picture tube technology. That's one of the reasons along with bulk and modest screen size that it's cheaper than, say, large-screen plasmas. There's nothing cheap about its stunning color picture, arguably better than sets that cost a lot more. The TV boasts widescreen cinematic "16-by-9"display capabilities, ideal for movies or viewing the entire Olympic swimming pool. Most regular TVs, and some entry-level HDTV models, only display the more squarish 4-by-3 format. (These "aspect ratios" reflect the proportion of how wide an image is compared with its height.)


The flat-screen Wega is a good choice for anyone constrained by room or cabinet size; as it was, the 196-pound TV barely squeezed into my wall unit.


................................


The gorgeous detail and surround sound that make up an HD signal raises the bar on must-see TV, within limits. I found myself marveling at how sharp the high-def feed of the CBS soap The Young and the Restless was compared with the fuzzy analog version.


As sterling as most of the pictures have been most of the time, I detected annoying pixilation watching divers, gymnasts and other athletes in action. Perhaps the HD feed remains a work in progress. For now, I'm forgiving such blemishes. High definition has been definitely worth the wait.

http://www.usatoday.com/tech/columni...-18-baig_x.htm


----------



## Procure

This is a newbie question-



Had a question on the OTA HDTV Tuner in the TV,


I currently do not suscribe to cable and no satelite service, so I get all my local Houston channels over an installed attic TV antenna.


When I buy the 34XBR, do I just take the coaxial cable from the antenna run and hook it up to the TV and the TV should recognize the HDTV signal (if the program is in HD) from the local Houston network affiliates. If so, is the coaxial cable the best way to hook up the antenna??


Brian


----------



## BTV Mark

Yes, Brian. Just hook up the coaxial cable, and then run the auto-setup process. Just like analog TV's, the set will find all the available stations.

It will also "group" the digital channels with the "parent" channel. For example, here in Chicago the local ABC affiliate is on channel 7. The Sony groups ABC's digital channels and shows them as 7.1, 7.2, and 7.3, even though the actual digital channel is somewhere in the UHF band. Slick!


I have a rotatable UHF/VHF OTA antenna. I found the tuning is a little more critical on the digital channels, but now I know where to point the antenna and everything's great. (It seems you need to have a stronger signal for the digital channels to work properly. There's a diagnostic menu that shows you signal strength and signal-to-noise ratio, but there no information in the manual on what the numbers mean!) So you may need a pre-amplifier on the antenna. But perhaps not. Just connect the set when you get it and see.


It's a great TV--enjoy!


Mark


----------



## Segaboy

Brian,


There are two RF inputs on the back of the monitor, one is labeled 'antenna' and the other is labeled 'cable TV'.


Just connect the feed from the antenna in the roof to the 'antenna' input on the back of the monitor, run the auto setup (it may take upwards of an hour) and enjoy HD and SD broadcasts for free.


----------



## juandixon

hey sega u got it?


----------



## tennberg

So, I'm a bit ticked right now.


When I purchased my XBR960 last Saturday, the 14th, at Tweeter in Boston, I was told the TV would not be arriving in their warehouse until the 23rd and that delivery would be made on the 24th. Fine, I said to myself. It's a popular TV, and I only need to wait about a week.


Yesterday, the 19th, I got a voicemail at home from their home delivery people saying the TV was arriving today (the 20th) and that they would like to schedule delivery for this Saturday (the 21st).


So I called them to set up a time for this Saturday. They then told me nothing arrived yet today and that they were now not expecting this TV until the *27th* and would not be able to deliver it until at least the *31st*.


I have a feeling this date is just going to keep being pushed back and back and back.


----------



## juandixon

ha i ordered mine on early aug but won't get it till late sept lol


----------



## Segaboy

juandixon,


I have NOT received a call from the Sony Family Store, nor have I received my monitor.


Although, I did just purchase eight D-Theater titles to go with my brand new JVC 40k D-Theater deck.


My ISF calibrator is emailing me asking when the monitor will be here, and I have resorted to studying the schematics of the XBR960 that come with the service manual that I ordered and received from Sony.


I must be going nuts...what do you think?


----------



## juandixon

i assume its been around 6-7 weeks already, they told me 4-8 weeks when I ordered mine in early aug. but yeah there is definitely a shortage. sonystyle store says its shipping in 5-7 days so that means maybe a new batch will come in next week. did u order the stand too?


----------



## Procure

I am trying to decide whether to purchase the 34XBR960 in town (CC - Houston) have them in stock in the warehouse, or buy from Crutchfield over the Net.


Both places have the same price, but at CC I have to pay sales tax which is $186.00 extra. No sales tax at Crutchfield and no-charge delivery.


If the TV is received from Crutchfield and it is defective then I have to deal with Sony. Crutchfield does not take returns on this large of a TV.


CC has the 30 day return policy, so if TV is defective it is not much of a hassle to return to CC.


What do you guys think?? In your opinion better to buy from CC or crutchfield on a TV of this size.


Thanks,


Brian


----------



## BTV Mark

Well, it's your decision, but...


I decided to buy my set from a local vendor. (ABT in Glenview, Il). They delivered the set, carried it down the basement steps, assembled the stand, and put the TV on the stand for me. They also connected my coax cable, and stayed while the set went through the "auto-program" routine. They didn't leave until I was satisfied the set was working. That was worth a lot to me. (I have a lot of confidence in Sony, but if the set had been "DOA," it wouldn't have been my problem. They would have taken it back right then.) And I know I can get local service for it if necessary.


I have ordered may electronic items via the mail--including some computers. But this baby weighs in at almost 200 pounds, so I didn't want to put myself in a position of having to ship it anywhere.


Mark


PS I wish I had asked the delivery guys to carry the old 27" XBR upstairs--it was a job my wife and I could barely handle!


----------



## paris_tn

Could anyone snap a few pictures(960) with their digital camera showing a hdtv picture being played and also a picture from sd? I know it will not acomplish alot but i would sure like to see what the picture looks like hd and also sd over the computer. It is not a cc or bb close to me and will be a little while untill i can get to a cc or bb that has one. If anyone knows of pictures that has already been snapped or shown, please give me the link.

Thanks,


----------



## TKO

Here's a screen shot of a 34XBR960. Is this worth fixing in the service menu or just return it? I was wondering how this compares to others.


Also on the same set, the HDMI connector is very sensitive to movement. If you barely touch the connector, the signal is lost on the TV.

Screen Shot 

_Photo placed in link to minimize bandwidth._


----------



## BloatedCorpse

..definitely call sony service. Your geometry should be improved by a tech or your set should be replaced.


----------



## paris_tn

Thanks tko, i am not sure of the questions as i have not got one but was thinking about getting a new set. I hope to see more pictures also and maybe it will help you seeing some screen shots of others as well. The blacks really look nice and black and the colors stand out and look good.


----------



## TKO

Paris,


Note the screen shot is of SD materia. I picked SD to show the terrible geometry.


----------



## bada




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by TKO_
> *Paris,
> 
> 
> Note the screen shot is of SD materia. I picked SD to show the terrible geometry.*



Better calibrate that set.


----------



## paris_tn

Does this only happen in sd? Is it a work around to have someone tune the set and fix the geometry? Do you have the same geometry in hdtv or only in sd? If the problems can all be fixed with someone professinally tuneing these sets, it would be well worth it but i am not sure if this is the case. It would be interesting to see if anyone has had a professional come calibrate their set and them still not like it or have problems.

Thanks again


----------



## TKO

This is why I posted the picture. I don't know if my set is way out of norm vs. others or I should accept the geometry and waste time/money on correcting it.


Right now if the HDMI connector doesn't function better, the set will probably go back on that reason.


I have not messed around with Avia yet.


----------



## paris_tn

It would be good if others would post a sceen shot of the olympics at this time and show you their set. I hope others are on now and will post some pics and advice back to you. I agree if you knew it was just a geometry problem and a calibrater could fix it, pay the money and do it but if it is the sets problem, you do not want to throw money away.


----------



## dizzyfaust

i ordered my set through sonystyle and dont see what benefit i lose.


if the set is defective or has issues within 2 years i either get it replaced or serviced by a sony auth tech.


its in house service and you dont pay for it. so whats the issue ? the sony delivery contractor is professional. imo a better choice than a b&m drop off.


just my .02


tko maybe you have bad geometry, ill take your word. using a field track to show curvature/bowing isnt what i'd use. you have avia, why dont you use it ? should take you 10 min.


assuming it is bowing, thats not a horrible bow and i've seen worse fixed. but clearly if you cant fix it, replace it. email sony but imo that sort of service falls under the inhouse warranty.


either way, gl to you


----------



## spongebob




> _Originally posted by dizzyfaust_
> 
> *i ordered my set through sonystyle and dont see what benefit i lose.
> 
> 
> if the set is defective or has issues within 2 years i either get it replaced or serviced by a sony auth tech.
> 
> 
> its in house service and you dont pay for it. so whats the issue ? the sony delivery contractor is professional. imo a better choice than a b&m drop off.
> 
> 
> The issue is that you usually get a bozo that makes the set worse than when he showed up!
> 
> 
> bob*


----------



## eblue




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by BloatedCorpse_
> *..definitely call sony service. Your geometry should be improved by a tech or your set should be replaced.*



TKO

i had a good korean sony service tech and he reduced the same geometry issue with my 960.while he did not totally eliminate it, i'm satisfied that it is the best they could do and will not return my unit,just for that anayway.


by the way, my side vertical bars are black-how did you make them light gray?

eblue


----------



## tennberg

So, if you do get a 960 with slight geometry issues, could a Sony technician actually fix it under warranty?


Once I get my 960 (it was pushed back from this Saturday to the 31st), I was considering having any issues fixed by an ISF-certified technician (after a 100+ hour burn-in). The cost was $300.


Would a Sony technician be able to do as good a job for free (or even better) as an ISF technician would for $300?


Thanks.


----------



## triplex

TKO,


You have the same geometry issue I have in the upper corners and slight bend on bottom, but yours looks more extreme. For some reason on my set the geometry issue is not noticeable when watching 16:9 HDTV.


----------



## michaelggray

The time when the Geometry looks absoulutley the worst is on CBS-HD with the gray sidebars. The bars bow in at the top and bow out at the bottom. I don't really notice geometry problems any other time.


----------



## juandixon

1000!!! yippee hehe


----------



## bsd107

My big complaint about the Twin View feature is that you can't leave the audio fixed on one window while you "surf" in the other. My 9-year old Sony 32" lets you toggle the audio from one window to the other. The XBR960 insists on fixing the audio on whichever window is selected. This makes it pretty useless to surf while watching a program, in my opinion.


I'm using the CableCard with TimeWarner Cable.


My biggest problem with TwinView is that it confuses my receiver in terms of audio. I use a Sony V555ES receiver, connected to both the optical digital and analog outputs (monitor out) of the XBR960. The V555ES is set to auto-set the input. So if I'm watching a Digital Cable or HDTV station, it automatically uses the digital input, and it automatically uses the analog audio input when I'm watching analog stations. This works perfectly when switching channels. However, as soon as I switch to TwinView, the audio output (from the receiver) stops, and the receiver looses connection. I have do back out of TwinView, then select a digital station to get the receiver back. Then it will continue to work fine until I select TwinView again.


I'm not really sure what is happening, but it means that I can't use TwinView. I don't know if the TV does not output audio properly when using TwinView. Since I'm using a Sony receiver I wouldn't expect any compatibility issues.


If I'm using the TV's internal speakers, there are no issues with TwinView audio...


Maybe this would work better if I used the "monitor out" audio connections on the TV instead of the "audio out". BUT, I still want to be able (wife and kids) to use the TV internal speakers sometimes. If I wanted to use the "audio out", I'd need to put them into "fixed" mode (not "variable"), and to do this required disabling the TV's internal speakers. So, it's no good trying this.


Any ideas?


----------



## BTV Mark

I think we're stuck with Twinview the way it is. I agree with you, there should be a way to surf visually while the audio is locked--even if they had to lock it on either view (probably the left-hand view.) This was a big disappointment to me, too. (Wouldn't it be nice if the Firewire port allowed you to do a firmware upgrade? mmm...)


Mark


----------



## andrewjnyc

My 960 was delivered by Circuiy City today, and it's hard not to be blown away by the set. After a few hours, the "OMG" factor has worn off a bit and I've come to notice a distinct green tint in the upper right corner of the set (it's red/purple when the image has a blue background, and green the rest of the time). I have an appointment for an ISF calibration on 9/15 (the first appointment I could get). Is this tint something the calibration will be able to take care of, or is this something likely to be a permanent problem with the set? I'm about to give the set a quick workup with Video Essentials, which will hopefully improve things somewhat.


----------



## spongebob




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by andrewjnyc_
> *My 960 was delivered by Circuiy City today, and it's hard not to be blown away by the set. After a few hours, the "OMG" factor has worn off a bit and I've come to notice a distinct green tint in the upper tight corner of the set (it's red/purple when the image has a blue background, and green the rest of the time). I have an appointment for an ISF calibration on 9/15 (the first appointment I could get). Is this tint something the calibration will be able to take care of, or is this something likely to be a permanent problem with the set? I'm about to give the set a qiick workup with Video Essentials, which will hopefully improve things somewhat.*



Any speakers near the set?


Turn it off and on a few times to degauss.


bob


----------



## andrewjnyc

Turning the set off and on again did it! I'm relieved. And After a quick work-up with Digital Video Essentials, the set picture is looking pretty darn fantastic. I dunno what caused the green tint--my center channel speaker is about a meter straight up above the TV, and the front right one is wall mounted about a meter (maybe 1.25m) diagonally up from the corner that had the tint. Is that close enough for them to have a detrimental effect on the image? Still, it looks great now and I know what to do if the tint comes back. It's a drag that I have to wait almost a month before I can have the ISF configuration, but the picture I have now is good enough that I won't have too much trouble living with it until then.


----------



## dizzyfaust

"The issue is that you usually get a bozo that makes the set worse than when he showed up!"


so sponge is that any worse than a tech from cc/bb/etc ? i'll answer for you. no its not.


like i stated in a previous post i have "good luck" with all my electronics







> and service people. if i'm not happy with service or a product i make sure i get that way.


no biggie. now if it was medical malpractice, or a bad boob job on my wife....


----------



## Yung

I just stopped by CC today and saw that the 34XBR960 was on sale for $1,900 and today was the last day of the sale. I ended up ordering the xbr and a sony ht system. I didn't care much for the sony ht system but since there's a rebate right now, so I practically get the ht system for free.


I spend nearly 3 hours there at CC..I can't believe it...frustrating but at least I ordered my set. First they told me they didn't have the tv in their warehouse and the CC computer systems are so bad, the salesman had to look up each store to see if they had one in stock. First he told me no stores had it and then I told him that it was stupid to have a sale if CC doesn't even have it in stock and I said he should honor the price if I had to come back. He had to check with his manager and when he came back out, he said they managed to find one at another CC in Yonkers, NY.


I could have had it delivered next week, but I'm going to be busy, so I'm having them deliver it on the first weekend in September...can't wait.


----------



## foxfan

I'm anxious to see if the new batch CC will be receiving will have the previously reported problems (eg. tuner problem) fixed.


Also, about the $1900 sale price, aren't they required to give you a 30-day raincheck for that price? I think BB does that on their products. Too bad I wasn't near a CC when they had this price. I would have tried to haggle them to take another $50 so that the price of the TV and the stand would be $2200.


Regarding the XBR960, can anyone here who has the set please tell me if it is possible (and if you were able to) to send video from the digital tuner to a D-VHS (eg. JVC 40000) via the firewire connections? This is the only reason I want the XBR over the XS and an answer would really solve my dilemma. I posted this before but got no reply.


Thanks.


----------



## tennberg

Hi all,


I know some of you had purchased the matching stand for the 960 when you got yours. However, I found the stand to be a bit cheap when compared to the TV and a bit disappointed that it would hold only 1 small component.


I am sticking with my current Bell'O AVS-4201A stand. It has three glass shelves, the top of which Bell'O says can hold *up to* a 36" Sony XBR TV. Here is the only possible problem though, which some have told me won't be one:


The top shelf is 40" wide by 21" deep. This means the back of the TV base will hang off the shelf by a couple inches at least. The width is fine since the TV is 39 1/8" wide. Do you think it will be okay for the back to hang off a bit like that? I'm afraid one night I'll hear a loud crack, which will be the top glass shelf breaking.


P.S. - I'm also guessing I got the width of the TV right and that the *widest part of the base* is 39 1/8" wide and will fit perfectly on the top shelf.


Thanks!


----------



## Yung




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by tennberg_
> *The top shelf is 40" wide by 21" deep. This means the back of the TV base will hang off the shelf by a couple inches at least. The width is fine since the TV is 39 1/8" wide. Do you think it will be okay for the back to hang off a bit like that? I'm afraid one night I'll hear a loud crack, which will be the top glass shelf breaking.
> *



Your stand should be fine. Most of the weight of the tube sets are in the front, as long as that is well supported it will be fine. I'm planning to get the Bell'o AVSC-2103 myself.


----------



## yestfto73

I know that certain picture tubes are repairable once the phospher is used up. Does anyone here know if the tube in the 960 is repairable? I ask because there is a good chance that Sony, in the not too distant future, will completely stop producing CRT televisions in favor of whatever digital display will be popular at the time (God help us if that is still LCD). If the tube is repairable, I won't have to settle with anything "new" if I still think that this picture (on the 960) is the best there is.


----------



## FreeflyKC




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by tennberg_
> *
> 
> 
> I am sticking with my current Bell'O AVS-4201A stand. It has three glass shelves, the top of which Bell'O says can hold *up to* a 36" Sony XBR TV. Here is the only possible problem though, which some have told me won't be one:
> 
> 
> The top shelf is 40" wide by 21" deep. This means the back of the TV base will hang off the shelf by a couple inches at least. The width is fine since the TV is 39 1/8" wide. Do you think it will be okay for the back to hang off a bit like that? I'm afraid one night I'll hear a loud crack, which will be the top glass shelf breaking.*



You should be alright. The 960 is 24.3" deep. Plus, the heaviest part of the tv is towards the front, so a few inches off the back wouldn't concern me. Try it out. Just don't wiggle it excessively or go jumping up and down on the thing!







Seriously though, I would look at the specs on your stand.


Funny thing is I've ordered a stand for my 960 that I don't actually own yet! I went with the BDI Axis 8024 3-shelf...325lbs top, 75lbs middle, 150 lbs bottom. Measurements are 22.5"H x 48"W x 27"D which will give me a few inches in the front and four inches on either side.


----------



## tennberg

Hi all,


Thanks for the quick reply. I actually love my stand and think it will go perfectly with the 960, once I get it that is.


The store I got it from for 10% off plus no sales tax said they have about 45 ordered but only 10 or so available. Who knows where I am in *that* line? I was supposed to get the TV today (earlier than the original 24th delivery date), but it's not been pushed back to Aug. 31 for delivery. Looks like I'll be needing to take a day off of work ;-)


The store manager I spoke to said the guy who sold me the system should have said Sony is terrible with meeting delivery dates and that the original delivery date was only an estimate. Well, here's to hoping the 31st comes that much quicker.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

In full disclosure, I just stumbled on another little - what I will call glitch -when using the XBR960 in twin view.


We all know(or all should know) that cablecards only decode 1 channel - so don't expect it to work on twinview. We also know that HDTV can only be displayed in the left panel.


However, if you try twinview with the cablecard in the right panel and tuned to a digital station that is non-HD, lets say anything above channel 99 or HBO in SD, it will not show in the right side.


I can understand why it won't show 2 HD panels (though I would prefer it would), but why it will show the the analog cable channels on the right and not the digital SD channels via cablecard looks like an oversight to me - especially if you aren't using the cablecard on the left side at the same time.


And as a footnote, I am beginning to see a black "shadow" appear on the left edge of my screen - about a quarter of the way up. I believe someone else commented about the same thing on this thread, but I can't seem to find it now.


I certainly hope the aperture is not going bad on this tube like it did on the 910.


----------



## Yung




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by yestfto73_
> *I know that certain picture tubes are repairable once the phospher is used up. Does anyone here know if the tube in the 960 is repairable? I ask because there is a good chance that Sony, in the not too distant future, will completely stop producing CRT televisions in favor of whatever digital display will be popular at the time (God help us if that is still LCD). If the tube is repairable, I won't have to settle with anything "new" if I still think that this picture (on the 960) is the best there is.*




I'm not so sure CRTs will go away anytime soon. This is a technology that, while old, is still developing. Samsung is coming out with some thinner tube sets next year and if the quality is any good, I think Sony will have to think long and hard about stopping production of CRTs. CRTs still give the best picture when comparing to other displays. If the price points of plasma and other thin displays come down significantly, then that may be another story.


----------



## cad_3




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by TKO_
> *Here's a screen shot of a 34XBR960. Is this worth fixing in the service menu or just return it? I was wondering how this compares to others.
> 
> 
> Also on the same set, the HDMI connector is very sensitive to movement. If you barely touch the connector, the signal is lost on the TV.
> 
> Screen Shot
> 
> Photo placed in link to minimize bandwidth.*




It's a good thing you used a _medium format camera_ and then scanned in the image to prevent the lens causing "bad geometry" convergence at the corners of the image and lending itself to a less accurate image. 


-C


----------



## 56Oval

So does anyone know someone from Sony who we can get the straight scoop concerning the supposed production halt to fix the tuner issues? All of my local stores are now out of them and claim wait times of several weeks. And I don't know if we can take a salespersons word on Sony production problems.


I finally gave up on set number three which had the same tuner problem as my other two sets. So I'm 960-less for a few months, until my back recovers from carrying the thing back and forth to the retailer six times! 


Seriously, it would be good to find out when a new batch of cured ones comes out so that I can come back to the land of HD. Watching the olympics is killing me now.


----------



## silvertone

After two months on the waiting list I finally got my 960 yesterday morning!!!! First impressions:


1. HD picture (in PRO mode) is outstanding!!!! Believe the hype! This set definately is the reference standard for high def. content at the moment.


2. SD content is not that good, I'd say after calibration you'd probably get it to look decent.


3. Looking at the back of the set it says it was manufactured in August, and so far I haven't had a tuner problem at all.


4. It definately has geometry problems that are more obvious with 4:3 material in "Normal" mode (however these geometry problems are present with ALL contens in ALL modes):


With this type of material as we know, two horizontal black bars appear on both sides of the picture. There's a slight outwards curvature on both bars on the upper corners only. Also, when I bring up the directv guide on the screeen, you can notice that the hoirzontal lines accross it are very curved downwards.


Has someone seen this before? Did calibration fix the problem? I'm wondering if I should get Sony to come out and fix it or if I should get the set professionally calibrated to address this issue. I have had mix results with Sony technicians in the past, so I'm wondering if they'll be of any use. BTW I'm in the Plano, TX area.


Thanks,


----------



## billmail1

My local Circuit City was setting up a 960 on their display floor this morning. It wasn't there yesterday. I asked the salesperson if they had them in-stock and he said that a shipment was due in a few days. I don't know if this answers the production halt issue but stores are definitely getting them in at this location.


----------



## MikhailS

Two weeks ago, I reported here that I have been having troubles with a tuner similar to the ones described in this thread. Last week, Comcast install digital cable with a cable card and I do not have anymore tuner problems. The tv takes few seconds to start and comes up with a clear picture for both digital, HD and analog channels. The tv worked fine after it was off for few days and it is ok every evening now.


Before that I had a standard analog cable and used internal tv tuner. I had problems with viewing after the tv was off for a while (I had to turn it off and turn it on).


So, I guess the problem is related to both: tuner and signal feed. If you have a proper digital feed you are OK, for other situations it depends.


I hope Sony will explain the situation, why it is happening and then I will try to fix it. In the mean time, I got really attached to the tv. I love the picture and the unit's functionality. I even got a memory stick to view digital pictures. They are really amazing, almost slide projector quality without all the troubles.


BTW, I am in the Boston area and it seems to me that CC here does not have any supply problems. They were willing to replace my set right away.


Mikhail


----------



## Phantastica

Here's the weekly update on my XBR960 -


The geometry problems seem to be getting worse. Instead of just having the corners bow, the whole right side seems to compress and bow. I ran a test pattern through my PC onto the screen (through component cables) that alternates between a large white bar in the middle 30% of the screen and then the inverse of that (white bars at the top and bottom with black through the middle). The parts of the screen where the white bars were clearly bowed more then the dark areas. You could actually see the bowing effect increase and decrease as the pattern switch back and forth.


A dark area has appear on the left side of the screen a few inches up from the bottom. It's noticeable whenever there is any solid colour in that area.


There seem to be other noticeable colour blemishes that are visible on an all white background.


I don't think any of these problems are from burn-in, because I keep the set in Pro mode with the Brightness at around 40% and the Picture at about 60%. I also watch a mix of material.


----------



## FreeflyKC




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Phantastica_
> *Here's the weekly update on my XBR960 -
> 
> 
> The geometry problems seem to be getting worse.*



Could be shielding. Are you using speakers close to the tv?


----------



## tennberg

Hi everyone,


When I purchased my 960 from Tweeter in Boston a week and a half ago, they offered me their protection plan, which I turned down. I didn't want to leave there thinking they got me to buy more than I needed. I figured Sony's 2-year warranty was adequate.


Now, that I've read even deeper into the forums, I'm thinking I made a bad choice. With Sony's warranty, I'm assuming if I get a defective unit, I will need to ship it back to Sony. Couple other points: 1, Sony's warranty is only 2 years long. 2, The guy at Tweeter told me Sony only covers dead pixels in the main part of the screen, *not* in corners.


With Tweeter's coverage, which is under $200, I get a 5 year warranty, a 60 day defective return policy (from date of actual delivery), in-home repairs, coverage of all pixels on screen, and yearly maintenance (though I may just do ISF calibration).


Since I actually haven't received the TV yet (it doesn't get delivered until the 31st), I called and was told i could go into Tweeter to pick up the extra coverage.


What are your thoughts?


Thanks!


----------



## Phantastica




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by FreeflyKC_
> *Could be shielding. Are you using speakers close to the tv?*



No, I'm just using small bookshelf speakers that are a good distance away from the set. I question the shielding around the built-in speakers on the tv though.


----------



## BloatedCorpse

..after a 2nd tech visit, my 960 has to be replaced. The geometry was eventually just too off to put up with, especially with static images such as my xbox games. It also has noticeable shadowing on both sides of the screen and seems to be getting worse slightly. It's especially easy to see against lighter or solid backgrounds. I was hoping for a repair, as it's probably even money that the next set will suffer from similar problems. I had similar problems with three 34HS510's, so at this point I'm wondering if it's just my environment(speakers have all been replaced and prior tv's exhibited the problems downstairs away from any other electronics). I tried to tell myself there are more important things to worry about, but when the bowing on the screen becomes noticeable to guests who see the set for the first time it's just plain unacceptable.


----------



## michaelggray

Can anybody that is successfully using the Scientific Atlanta CableCARD with this set send me a PM with the name of your cable company and city that you are in. Comcast still hasn't got my card to work. I would like some ammunition that others hace this working especially if Comcast has it working in some other area.


----------



## Phantastica




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by BloatedCorpse_
> *..after a 2nd tech visit, my 960 has to be replaced. The geometry was eventually just too off to put up with, especially with static images such as my xbox games. It also has noticeable shadowing on both sides of the screen and seems to be getting worse slightly. It's especially easy to see against lighter or solid backgrounds.*



It sounds like we're having an identical set of problems, so I guess there's a good chance that a replacement will suffer from the same problems (unless there was some manufacturing issue that has been sorted out). Did they give you an eta on a replacement set?


----------



## BloatedCorpse

..no ETA on the return. The tech said sony would call. They usually call and request a fax of the receipt and then it takes a couple of weeks or so to get a replacement, at least that's how it was with my 510's. The delivery guys are pretty good about removing and replacing the set on your stand too. Phantastica, keep me updated on how your set works out.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Phantastica_
> *Here's the weekly update on my XBR960 -
> 
> 
> A dark area has appear on the left side of the screen a few inches up from the bottom. It's noticeable whenever there is any solid colour in that area.
> 
> 
> There seem to be other noticeable colour blemishes that are visible on an all white background.
> 
> 
> I don't think any of these problems are from burn-in, because I keep the set in Pro mode with the Brightness at around 40% and the Picture at about 60%. I also watch a mix of material.*



BINGO.


Same issue i mentioned last week.


I have tech out on Thursday, bringing the Sony Magnet kit to fix the geometry, but this looks VERY SIMILAR to what developed in my 910 that was an apeture problem causing the whole picture tube to be replaced.


My fear is this is more of an issue than the ATSC tuner....as it's the second set i've had (910 and 960) to develop this and now several others have. Same Place on every picture tube.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by tennberg_
> *Hi everyone,
> 
> 
> When I purchased my 960 from Tweeter in Boston a week and a half ago, they offered me their protection plan, which I turned down. I didn't want to leave there thinking they got me to buy more than I needed. I figured Sony's 2-year warranty was adequate.
> 
> 
> Now, that I've read even deeper into the forums, I'm thinking I made a bad choice. With Sony's warranty, I'm assuming if I get a defective unit, I will need to ship it back to Sony. Couple other points: 1, Sony's warranty is only 2 years long. 2, The guy at Tweeter told me Sony only covers dead pixels in the main part of the screen, *not* in corners.
> 
> 
> With Tweeter's coverage, which is under $200, I get a 5 year warranty, a 60 day defective return policy (from date of actual delivery), in-home repairs, coverage of all pixels on screen, and yearly maintenance (though I may just do ISF calibration).
> 
> 
> Since I actually haven't received the TV yet (it doesn't get delivered until the 31st), I called and was told i could go into Tweeter to pick up the extra coverage.
> 
> 
> What are your thoughts?
> 
> 
> Thanks!*



Get it. I did.....$40 a year. Replacement if they can't repair it (thats how I got my 960 after my 910 problems). Tune up the set once a year (though not ISF). And it covers lightning damage and electrical spikes that Sony doesn't.


Circuit City charges around $400 for the set. I see the $200 as a bargain I gladly paid....and it's already got me a new set.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by michaelggray_
> *Can anybody that is successfully using the Scientific Atlanta CableCARD with this set send me a PM with the name of your cable company and city that you are in. Comcast still hasn't got my card to work. I would like some ammunition that others hace this working especially if Comcast has it working in some other area.*




People clearly don't read my posts










Yes I am using the SA Cablecard. It works perfectly.


I've said it before, I will say it again.


The original SA Cablecard software DOES NOT SUPPORT THIS SET, only some Panasonic models. YOUR CABLE COMPANY MUST INSTALL SERVICE PACK 1 on their end to use and 18 other HDTVs with cable card.


There is a Service Pack 2 out now, but the set works with CableCard and Service Pack 1.


Tell them they HAVE TO INSTALL SERVICE PACK 1 to the cablecard software on the headend or it will never work.


----------



## Yung

I ordered my 960 this past weekend from CC and it is due to be delivered on 9/4. I currently don't have cable or satellite but am interested in OTA HDTV.

I live about 12-13 miles from the transmitter according to www.antennaweb.org 


Does anyone here use just and indoor/outdoor antenna connected straight to the 960 to get their HDTV? If so, what antenna do you use? I heard good things about the Zenith Silver Sensor and am considering it.


----------



## 56Oval




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Yung_
> *I ordered my 960 this past weekend from CC and it is due to be delivered on 9/4. I currently don't have cable or satellite but am interested in OTA HDTV.
> 
> I live about 12-13 miles from the transmitter according to www.antennaweb.org
> 
> 
> Does anyone here use just and indoor/outdoor antenna connected straight to the 960 to get their HDTV? If so, what antenna do you use? I heard good things about the Zenith Silver Sensor and am considering it.*



Hi Yung,


I used a Silver Sensor with the three different 960s that I had (all had problems with the HD tuners) and it worked fantastically! I think you'll find that it is a very highly recommended indoor antenna.


I live in Salt Lake City, about 15 miles from the two main antennas that broadcast HD here (about 30 digital stations, 5 or 6 of them are true HD 720p/1080i). It worked perfectly, even inside the house pointing at the antenna through a wall (not brick).


MW


----------



## TKO

Yung,


The 960's OTA DTV reception surprised me a little bit. I live about 5 miles from the local towers and am able to receive 3 out of 5 DTV stations without even connecting an antenna. I was not able to do this with my current DTV1080 satellite receiver. I think the signal strength was around 75% without the antenna. I use an outdoor antenna but did connect a small Recoton indoor antenna for testing and received all the channels with 90% or higher strength.


For comparison, the 960 is always around 98% and my DTV1080 box







is usually 10 points lower.


----------



## BTV Mark

Yung, I have no experience with indoor antennas. Based on 56Oval's response, maybe you should try the indoor antenna and take it back if it doesn't work properly for you.


I use an outdoor antenna with a mast-mounted preamplifier. I'm in Chicago, about 10-12 miles from the downtown transmitters. I am very pleased with my installation, but I must say the signal was intermittent until I turned up the gain on the preamplifier. So it appears to me that the signal needs to be fairly strong for the 960 to deliver a good picture.



Mark


----------



## Yung

Thanks for your reponse guys. I just moved into my house a few months ago and I know I have an outdoor antenna attached to mast on my chimney. I don't know the make of the antenna, but I am pretty sure its both VHF & UHF. I don't see a feed from the antenna into the house though, so I will have to get someone to look into that.


In the meantime, I may pick up the Silver Sensor. Buy.com has a variant from Phillips that is about $25, which is $5 cheaper than the Zenith model and it comes with free shipping. Is there any difference between the Zenith one and the ones from Gemini and Philips? I also read elsewhere on this forum that maybe the Zenith preamp ZEN-AA1 works well with the silver sensor to increase the gain.


----------



## michaelggray

HDTVFanAtic


I read your posts before, I knew that you and 1 other individual on these boards are using it successfully. I was looking to see if there also are others. Are you a COMCAST customer? I was hoping to be able to tell them that COMCAST has this combination working in such and such markets. Anyway I appreciate your response that you made previously and now.


My cable company says they are running Service Pack 1. I was under the impression that they needed service pack 2.


----------



## Yung

For those of you who had problems with the XBR960 - either with the geometry or the built-in tuner. When was your unit manufactured?


----------



## triplex

Watching spring board diving in the olympics on HDTV. Very heavy pixelation of the diver during the spinning. I tried using both the outboard HDTV tuner and built in tuner and got the same exact results. I thought the point of having an interlaced picture is to prevent this.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

Does Pixelation occur because of weak signal strength?


----------



## amirm




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by triplex_
> *Watching spring board diving in the olympics on HDTV. Very heavy pixelation of the diver during the spinning. I tried using both the outboard HDTV tuner and built in tuner and got the same exact results. I thought the point of having an interlaced picture is to prevent this.*



You are seeing compression artifacts from the real-time MPEG-2 encoder used for ATSC broadcasts. At these data rates, the encoder can not keep up with motion, resulting in tremendous amount of block errors which are visible on every kind of display product, regardless of type. MPEG-2 does not become transparent until you reach well over 40 Mbit/sec (at least double what is used in ATSC).


Interlace does not ease this problem and actually complicates it at times (although modern encoders have proper tools to deal with it).


The only way to get better pictures is to pre-encode and fine tune manually as is done with stored content (e.g. movies). The bigger the display (and the closer you sit to it), the more you will notice these artifacts.


Move advanced compression systems fare much better than old MPEG-2 but we are stuck with this technology.....


Amir


----------



## letMeIn

I think it has to do with compression. MPEG2 is just not good enough for fast moving HDTV images.


Its like streaming movies off the net. You have good connection it will be smooth with very few pixles, however if you have slow connection fast moving objects will appear pixelated.


----------



## TKO

Manufactured July 2004


Bad geometry that could not be corrected by the Sony technician.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by michaelggray_
> *HDTVFanAtic
> 
> 
> I read your posts before, I knew that you and 1 other individual on these boards are using it successfully. I was looking to see if there also are others. Are you a COMCAST customer? I was hoping to be able to tell them that COMCAST has this combination working in such and such markets. Anyway I appreciate your response that you made previously and now.
> 
> 
> My cable company says they are running Service Pack 1. I was under the impression that they needed service pack 2.*



I might have stated SP2 by mistake, but it is clearly SP1 that is needed. That is all BHN has here and I have no issues.


They did call me on Tuesday to make sure it was still ok as apparently the Panasonics contained in the original Software has gone to hell on them. I told them this cablecard still continued rock solid.


----------



## Phantastica




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Yung_
> *For those of you who had problems with the XBR960 - either with the geometry or the built-in tuner. When was your unit manufactured?*



Manufactured in June. Bad geometry. A dark blotch on the left and right side. Blotchy solid colours.


----------



## TennBikeBerk

Got my tv and hooked it up today. Very nice, and no complaints here.


One minor thing though... I hooked up my DVD player which plays at 480i. The tv only recognizes 4:3 at 480i, and not 16:9, so the normal mode was in a 4:3 format. I checked settings and the manual, and the tv bascially assumes that 480i signal is a 4:3 format, and anything better than 480i is 16:9.


----------



## BTV Mark

re: blocking and compression


Amrim said it well: It's the format we're stuck with--it's not a fault of the '960.


To add a bit more: As you probably know, most stations transmit at least one additional signal on their digital channel. The bandwidth for this signal needs to fit within the standard channel assignment. So the broadcasters reduce the bandwidth of the HD channel in order to accommodeate other signal(s). In other words, the broadcasters are looking down the road to provide another revenue stream. Did the FCC shortchange us viewers? Well, today's HD is pretty darn good, but it could have been even better.


Mark


----------



## billmail1

Just turned on my 960 for the first time 2 days ago. Geometry is terrible. On 4:3 images, bowing at the top and bottom on both sides is extremely obvious. Of course, it's not noticeable on 16:9 but 4:3 is going to drive me nuts. I called my retailer and requested a replacement. He offered to have a Sony Technician come to house to attempt to fix it. I told him that the set was too new to have it repaired. He insisted that that should be the first step. I insisted that that offer was not good enough and I wanted it replaced. He finally agreed but said that it would take about 10 days to swap it with another new one. This geometry issue is very noticeable to me because I had my previous XBR910 ISF calibrated which fixed a lot of minor problems including geometry. However, it cost me about $275 so I'm not ready to spend that kind of money until I get a set that is reasonably acceptable "out of the box". I haven't evaluated the picture quality yet because I was so disgusted that I just turned the set off and switched to my 27" TV. Hopefully the replacement set will be better. What a disappointment.


----------



## 56Oval




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Yung_
> *For those of you who had problems with the XBR960 - either with the geometry or the built-in tuner. When was your unit manufactured?*



Serial# 8002135 - Bad Tuner

Serial# 8002210 - REALLY Bad Tuner (had to warm set up 5 min then recycle power) - Poor Geometry

Serial# 8002136 - Surprise surprise...bad tuner.


I believe there were all June/July


----------



## RobertF

Wow. From a statistical standpoint, that's a pretty bad record. It's interesting that your 4th set was just one serial number off of your first one.


I wonder what small percentage of the folks buying this set are even aware of the problem reports on this forum?


Bob



> Quote:
> _Originally posted by 56Oval_
> *Serial# 8002135 - Bad Tuner
> 
> Serial# 8002210 - REALLY Bad Tuner (had to warm set up 5 min then recycle power) - Poor Geometry
> 
> Serial# 8002136 - Surprise surprise...bad tuner.
> 
> 
> I believe there were all June/July*


----------



## cad_3




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by TennBikeBerk_
> *Got my tv and hooked it up today. Very nice, and no complaints here.
> 
> 
> One minor thing though... I hooked up my DVD player which plays at 480i. The tv only recognizes 4:3 at 480i, and not 16:9, so the normal mode was in a 4:3 format. I checked settings and the manual, and the tv bascially assumes that 480i signal is a 4:3 format, and anything better than 480i is 16:9.*



My DVD player has settings. It can be set for 4:3 or 16:9 but it has to be done within the DVD menus. It's default is 4:3. I'm just wondering if you have that same issue, because I watch 480i stuff in 16:9 w/ no problem. (after someone else went into the setup and change the default setting).

-C


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by billmail1_
> *Just turned on my 960 for the first time 2 days ago. Geometry is terrible. On 4:3 images, bowing at the top and bottom on both sides is extremely obvious. Of course, it's not noticeable on 16:9 but 4:3 is going to drive me nuts. I called my retailer and requested a replacement. He offered to have a Sony Technician come to house to attempt to fix it. I told him that the set was too new to have it repaired. He insisted that that should be the first step. I insisted that that offer was not good enough and I wanted it replaced. He finally agreed but said that it would take about 10 days to swap it with another new one. This geometry issue is very noticeable to me because I had my previous XBR910 ISF calibrated which fixed a lot of minor problems including geometry. However, it cost me about $275 so I'm not ready to spend that kind of money until I get a set that is reasonably acceptable "out of the box". I haven't evaluated the picture quality yet because I was so disgusted that I just turned the set off and switched to my 27" TV. Hopefully the replacement set will be better. What a disappointment.*



You are nuts.


None of them are going to be perfect out of the box. They won't spend that much time in the factory as 95% of the people are happy with them as is.


You paid for ISF on a set less than 6 months old but won't let them try and get the geometry right in your house.


Do you know that on the final adjustment Sony in San Diego points all these sets due west for the final adjustment.


Do you know they adjust them differently depending on which side of the Equator they are going?


Do you know that more sets in Florida and the further South you go have worse issues as it all has an effect?


And we aren't just talking Sony.


Let them adjust it in your house. Then take a replacement.


Geez.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

OK guys, on the issue of the shadow or shading on the left hand side.


This can be one of 2 issues.


You hope that its a purity issue. That can be corrected with the magnets.


You hope its not the other. That can't.


The way you tell is with a sold color such as red. If the "shadow" is of a solid color, like yellow with a red screen, or purple or green on the other colors, then its purity. Magnets can correct that.


If it is grey or black, thats a much worse issue. That is "the shadow of death"....my term, not Sonys.


That's the same problems the 40 inch tubes have and most techs have given up trying to correct it. They believe its just a flaw in the manufactoring process.


If you hit the TV near the shadow and the picture "rings" continually for 5 seconds or so on the screen, then your apeture is going bad (that's what happened on my 910).


Mine was the purity issue. Magnets solved the problem shadowing problem. However, they still could not correct the geometry issues.


An interesting note. Tweeter in Florida had 2 shipments totally around 75 of these units. They are out of them now but expecting another shipment of 75 in the next 5 days (so much for production halt rumors, lol).


The 2 techs that work the 8 county area here have worked on 3. Mine is the only geometry/purity issue.


That stat says what I suspected, most people either 1) don't have that many issues with this set or 2) most people are just not as critical.


I believe it's the later instead of the former.


The tuner issue is evident in many ATSC tuners - not just Sonys. Some sets want you to turn on the source first, then turn on the set. Other sets want the set on and then the source.


Mitsubishi's HDTV go crazy if you turn on a source after the TV is turned on and even shut down.


It's the nature of the beast. If you can't change a channel to get a signal, and Mitsubishi makes you turn on things in certain sequences, good luck ever being happy.


----------



## snclawson




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by TennBikeBerk_
> *Got my tv and hooked it up today. Very nice, and no complaints here.
> 
> 
> One minor thing though... I hooked up my DVD player which plays at 480i. The tv only recognizes 4:3 at 480i, and not 16:9, so the normal mode was in a 4:3 format. I checked settings and the manual, and the tv bascially assumes that 480i signal is a 4:3 format, and anything better than 480i is 16:9.*



Make sure that your DVD player is set to 16:9 mode. The 960 definetely checks the ID1 flag on 480i and 480p material (it works great on mine at least), but your DVD player has to tell the TV... =)


----------



## snclawson




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by triplex_
> *Watching spring board diving in the olympics on HDTV. Very heavy pixelation of the diver during the spinning. I tried using both the outboard HDTV tuner and built in tuner and got the same exact results. I thought the point of having an interlaced picture is to prevent this.*



I've noticed that all of the `water sports' have pretty bad pixelization. =( The bottom line is that there's just too much information there for the system to handle; the only fix is to either use a better algorithm that can compress that information better using the available bandwidth (like say, MPEG 4), or increase the bandwidth (ok, better encoders could also help).


In any case, interlacing both helps and hurts. It helps in that you've halved the original bandwidth by only sending half a frame at a time, but by doing this it also makes it harder for the compression algorithms to work. You've spread the spacial locality of the picture across two frames.


----------



## silvertone




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by HDTVFanAtic_
> *You are nuts.
> 
> 
> None of them are going to be perfect out of the box. They won't spend that much time in the factory as 95% of the people are happy with them as is.
> 
> 
> Geez.*



BTW, I got my set delivered Monday. And it has bad geometry problems as well. The set was manufactured in August. So, it will be replaced.


Anyway, when you say 95% of the people are happy with the set, how are you coming up with this number? Did you do a survey that we're not aware of or something? This set was initially marketed for the videophiles to start with !! most people that don't care much black levels, gray scale, color rendition, red push etc. etc. already own a plasama, lcd, dlp or some other mediocre technology out there.


The point is, it's not too much to ask to have good (NOT PERFECT) geometry on a $2k television. If the problems are minor but yet noticeable, that's not acceptable to me. After spending 3 days with my tv, checking out every format and aspect ratio, the geometry is bad enough to notice. And good luck trying to adjust the particular 'bowing' problems through the service menu, it will not happen !!!!!! You can mask the problems a bit, but then another section of the screen becomes affected. Trust me on this one, I spent lots of time trying to rectify the situation.


So HDTVFanatic, it seems to me that about 95% of the people in this thread have had problems with this set and you are pefectly happy with yours. So, why are you still checking the thread? You must be nuts to be paying attention to a thread of problems that you currently don't have or or that you find neglegible.


----------



## Yung

Ok, I've looked at this thread for the past couple of months and it seems that a number of people have had problems with their sets -either bad geometry or bad tuner. However, it seems to be a small minority so far, as most people seem to be satisfied. My set is being delivered on 9/4 so I hope I am one of the satisfied customers.


Here is a list of reported problems that I have seen in this thread.


Reported AVS Serial Mfg Purchased/

Problem/Comments Member Number Date Received

Bad Tuner RJB in Phila ? ? 7/10/04

Bad Geometry JamisonBWolsh ? ? 7/14/04

Bad Tuner JamisonBWolsh ? ? 7/24/04

Bad Tuner/Bad Geometry JamisonBWolsh ? ? 7/31/04

Bad Tuner 56Oval 8002135 June/July ?

Bad Tuner/Bad Geometry 56Oval 8002210 June/July ?

Bad Tuner 56Oval 8002136 June/July ?

Bad Geometry Phantastica ? June ?

Bad Tuner snclawson 800458X ? ?

Bad Picture snclawson 800353X ? ?

HDMI problem HDTVFanAtic 8002496 ? ?

Bad Geometry in 4:3 billmail1 ? ? 8/24/04

Bad Geometry TKO ? July ?

No digital signal from cold start eganders ? ? ?

slight geometry problems in 4:3 Acksull 8002689 ? ?

bad geometry silvertone ? August 8/23/04


Others that reported they have no problems

No problems BTV Mark 8003116 ? ?

So far looks great rmacdoug 8004571 ? 8/18/04


There are a bunch more people satisfied with their sets from what I have seen than those with problems. Maybe we can keep this list going for those that have not reported in.


----------



## kctobyjoe

My TV has shipped today. I wont call the carrier until late Fri to see when they expect to deliver it.

Since the carrier is out of Phili, I really dunno when...but in my mind it's a one day run to NEPA at best.

We'll see and I will keep everyone apprised on its fate...fingers crossed !


----------



## RobertF

Congratulations on the new TV!


Be sure to inspect the TV before signing for the delivery.


Here's a thread about a 34XBR910 that was damaged during delivery:

Sony KV34XBR910 Delivery Nightmare 


Basically, the box looked intact but the tube was actually damaged.


Bob



> Quote:
> _Originally posted by kctobyjoe_
> *My TV has shipped today. I wont call the carrier until late Fri to see when they expect to deliver it.
> 
> Since the carrier is out of Phili, I really dunno when...but in my mind it's a one day run to NEPA at best.
> 
> We'll see and I will keep everyone apprised on its fate...fingers crossed !*


----------



## billmail1

HDTVFanAtic,


I'm NUTS????? Are you asking a question or making a judgement?? In response to your comments:


1. I am not expecting "perfection" out of the box. I didn't have it on the 910 and I don't expect it on the 960. What I do expect is a 4:3 picture that doesn't draw a negative reaction from my wife (who knows very little about the technical side of TV but she knows what she likes and what she doesn't like). Since we spend a lot of time watching SD 4:3 (not by choice), the bowing problem is very obvious, very annoying, unacceptable and WE DON'T LIKE IT!! Not on a $500 27" set (also a Sony) and definitely not on a 34" HD set that should be setting the standard for Direct-View TVs.


2. Yes, I paid for an ISF calibration on my 910 but, guess what, an ISF tech normally knows what he/she is doing. Let's see...oh yeah...I think they are ISF certified. Are Sony techs certified?? And if so, by who's standard?? In my opinion, there is a HUGE difference between an ISF tech (who's level of professionalism can usually be measured and verified (the one I hired has quite a well-known and respected reputation) and a Sony Tech that might have been hired by the local TV repair shop last week. Sorry, but a TV that is only a few days old shouldn't need a visit by a Sony technician. I believe that is why retailers have exchange policies.


3. I don't care what direction Sony points their TV's when performing the final adjustments. If the alignment works in San Diego and not in New Jersey then the shipping box should be labeled as such. How far away from San Diego do I need to be to get a decent picture? And the last time I checked the map, NJ is still north of Florida so I guess my TV should be somewhat better than the Sony TVs sold in Florida!


4. As for letting Sony into my house to adjust my set - I don't think so - at least not the first one. My retailer's clock (for a return or exchange) starts when the set is delivered to my residence - not when I'm finally satisfied that Sony was able to properly adjust it.


My first 910 was great "out of the box" and it probably also came from San Diego. The ISF tech was able to improve it tremendously and I will have the next one calibrated as well but that shouldn't be necessary to see straight lines on the tube. Believe me, I can live quite happily with a less-than-perfect color temperature or white balance but extreme curves on both sides of the picture can really ruin a 4:3 viewing experience.


I know that Sony is not much better than the other manufacturers but I can tolerate a poor picture on a $1000 set much more than I can with a $2000 one.


Am I nuts??? I don't think so. I'm just a consumer who expects to purchase a HDTV that doesn't elicit comments from friends and family asking me "What's wrong with your new TV??". You should give HDTV viewers a little more credit for knowing a straight line from a curved one. Believe it or not, those of us East of San Diego know that the former is acceptable and the latter is not.


Please don't interpret my response as inflammatory or argumentative. It's not meant to be. I just don't like being called "nuts" for caring about the quality of my viewing experience and posting either my satisfaction or dissatisfaction on this forum.


Bill


----------



## Ppuno

I've got a good xbr960, serial number 4558. I didn't check when it was made.


----------



## 56Oval




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by RobertF_
> *Wow. From a statistical standpoint, that's a pretty bad record. It's interesting that your 4th set was just one serial number off of your first one.
> 
> 
> I wonder what small percentage of the folks buying this set are even aware of the problem reports on this forum?
> 
> 
> Bob*



I wonder how many people out there actually have bad ATSC/QAM tuners, but because they are just hooking the TV up via HDMI to their Satellite Receiver they don't recognize that their TV actaully has a problem????


I bet there a lot of them! Especially ones manufactured in June/July!


I am very certain that there are a LOT of them out there with geometry problems that people just don't notice. We are probably a much pickier group when it comes to demanding a set with perfect geometry. Me thinks there is still a lot of 'art' in the science of building huge tube televisons! 


I gave up for a few months on trying to get a good one. I even considered bailing ship and buying a Samsung 47" DLP. But the DLP chip only renders 720 lines. Ack. Not good on a big screen line that. Maybe late October I'll throw the dice again and hope for a good 960.... Best TV out there.


----------



## TKO




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Ppuno_
> *I've got a good xbr960, serial number 4558. I didn't check when it was made.*



Could you post a screen shot while it's displaying a channel guide, something with a lot of horizontal lines (maybe even Avia) or just hit display to show the time in lower corner? I'm curious how your set is displaying in the corners. My serial number is 4408 manufactured in July and is being returned because geometry cannot be corrected to an acceptable quality.


56Oval, I'm doing the same. I'm returning my TV and will hold out for several months to see if quality improves and then repurchase.


----------



## silvertone

Here are some pictures showing the 'bowing' problem, in wide zoom mode and 4:3 mode. My serial number is 8005787


----------



## silvertone

another pic.


----------



## juandixon

are your guys geometry problems mostly for sd OR hd OR both? i can understand when using zoom on sd the picture will get distorted.


----------



## silvertone

Both. The geometry problems are also present with HD signal, though they're less noticeable. You can see it when you press the 'display' buttom during an OTA high def broadcast, you can see bowing on the boxes that display the info. about the channel. Nothing to do with any of the 'zoom' modes as the problem is very obvious when you watch 4:3 material in 'normal' mode. If you display the directv guide for example, you can pretty much tell the problem.


----------



## TennBikeBerk

Tonight I was watching tv on my fairly new 960, when I heard a loud "pop" noise. Sounded like a spark almost, and it came from my tv. I think the picture flashed for a second too.


It would seem as though nothing happened. The picture, color, and geometry and just like they were before the pop.


When the pop happened, the tv had been on for at least 20 minutes, so it wasn't the degaussing. Any ideas?


BTW, what is degaussing?


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by silvertone_
> *BTW, I got my set delivered Monday. And it has bad geometry problems as well. The set was manufactured in August. So, it will be replaced.
> 
> 
> Anyway, when you say 95% of the people are happy with the set, how are you coming up with this number? Did you do a survey that we're not aware of or something? This set was initially marketed for the videophiles to start with !! most people that don't care much black levels, gray scale, color rendition, red push etc. etc. already own a plasama, lcd, dlp or some other mediocre technology out there.
> 
> 
> The point is, it's not too much to ask to have good (NOT PERFECT) geometry on a $2k television. If the problems are minor but yet noticeable, that's not acceptable to me. After spending 3 days with my tv, checking out every format and aspect ratio, the geometry is bad enough to notice. And good luck trying to adjust the particular 'bowing' problems through the service menu, it will not happen !!!!!! You can mask the problems a bit, but then another section of the screen becomes affected. Trust me on this one, I spent lots of time trying to rectify the situation.
> 
> 
> So HDTVFanatic, it seems to me that about 95% of the people in this thread have had problems with this set and you are pefectly happy with yours. So, why are you still checking the thread? You must be nuts to be paying attention to a thread of problems that you currently don't have or or that you find neglegible.*



You're nuts.


75 sets sold. 3 service calls. 5%.

Very simple math.


YOU GET THE TECH TO ADJUST IT WITH MAGNETS, NOT THE SERVICE MENU.


GEEZ. Open the set yourself....take the subwoofer off the yoke if you are so inclined and look for yourself.


There will be 2-6+ magnets on the tube already. These magnets were applied in San Diego with all sets facing due west as a standard and adjusted with a compensation for North America.


It wasn't perfect to begin with and some worker slapped on some magents and hoped you would face the set west etc etc.


So you let a tech who cares more about it than the factory worker in your house to put on more magnets (actually better magnets as they are more adjustable than the factory magnets) try and straighten out the geometry. If he can't you send it back.


What is so hard about this concept?


Everyone shipping TV's back instead of giving a tech a shot at it, lots of luck as if you read carefully, those who have sent them back without giving a tech a shot at it aren't happy with the second one either.


That's not to say that a tech can fix every set, as has been the case - but its sure faster than going through 5 more sets and finally giving up.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by billmail1_
> *HDTVFanAtic,
> 
> 
> I'm NUTS????? Are you asking a question or making a judgement?? In response to your comments:
> 
> 
> 1. I am not expecting "perfection" out of the box. I didn't have it on the 910 and I don't expect it on the 960. What I do expect is a 4:3 picture that doesn't draw a negative reaction from my wife (who knows very little about the technical side of TV but she knows what she likes and what she doesn't like). Since we spend a lot of time watching SD 4:3 (not by choice), the bowing problem is very obvious, very annoying, unacceptable and WE DON'T LIKE IT!! Not on a $500 27" set (also a Sony) and definitely not on a 34" HD set that should be setting the standard for Direct-View TVs.
> 
> 
> 2. Yes, I paid for an ISF calibration on my 910 but, guess what, an ISF tech normally knows what he/she is doing. Let's see...oh yeah...I think they are ISF certified. Are Sony techs certified?? And if so, by who's standard?? In my opinion, there is a HUGE difference between an ISF tech (who's level of professionalism can usually be measured and verified (the one I hired has quite a well-known and respected reputation) and a Sony Tech that might have been hired by the local TV repair shop last week. Sorry, but a TV that is only a few days old shouldn't need a visit by a Sony technician. I believe that is why retailers have exchange policies.
> 
> 
> 3. I don't care what direction Sony points their TV's when performing the final adjustments. If the alignment works in San Diego and not in New Jersey then the shipping box should be labeled as such. How far away from San Diego do I need to be to get a decent picture? And the last time I checked the map, NJ is still north of Florida so I guess my TV should be somewhat better than the Sony TVs sold in Florida!
> 
> 
> 4. As for letting Sony into my house to adjust my set - I don't think so - at least not the first one. My retailer's clock (for a return or exchange) starts when the set is delivered to my residence - not when I'm finally satisfied that Sony was able to properly adjust it.
> 
> 
> My first 910 was great "out of the box" and it probably also came from San Diego. The ISF tech was able to improve it tremendously and I will have the next one calibrated as well but that shouldn't be necessary to see straight lines on the tube. Believe me, I can live quite happily with a less-than-perfect color temperature or white balance but extreme curves on both sides of the picture can really ruin a 4:3 viewing experience.
> 
> 
> I know that Sony is not much better than the other manufacturers but I can tolerate a poor picture on a $1000 set much more than I can with a $2000 one.
> 
> 
> Am I nuts??? I don't think so. I'm just a consumer who expects to purchase a HDTV that doesn't elicit comments from friends and family asking me "What's wrong with your new TV??". You should give HDTV viewers a little more credit for knowing a straight line from a curved one. Believe it or not, those of us East of San Diego know that the former is acceptable and the latter is not.
> 
> 
> Please don't interpret my response as inflammatory or argumentative. It's not meant to be. I just don't like being called "nuts" for caring about the quality of my viewing experience and posting either my satisfaction or dissatisfaction on this forum.
> 
> 
> Bill*



Yes you are nuts....see my response to directly above. It applies to you as well.


----------



## Segaboy

I thought this was a thread regarding the Sony KD-34XBR960...Not third grade...


----------



## RJB in Phila




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Yung_
> *For those of you who had problems with the XBR960 - either with the geometry or the built-in tuner. When was your unit manufactured?*



I didn't keep that info from the first set that had the tuner problems, but it was probably manufactured in June. The serial number was something like 8002xxxx. I remember it was in the 2000's. The current one I have that works perfectly is 8003057.


Still no problems at all with the second one. BTW, I will reiterate what I said about the picture out of the box. It looked pretty bad to me. But switching to Pro and a few other adjustments improved it dramatically. Just wanted to warn you new buyers about the picture out of the box. I know I was disappointed initially, but now I love it.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by TennBikeBerk_
> *Tonight I was watching tv on my fairly new 960, when I heard a loud "pop" noise. Sounded like a spark almost, and it came from my tv. I think the picture flashed for a second too.
> 
> 
> It would seem as though nothing happened. The picture, color, and geometry and just like they were before the pop.
> 
> 
> When the pop happened, the tv had been on for at least 20 minutes, so it wasn't the degaussing. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> BTW, what is degaussing?*



I've noticed something like this, too. What actually happened was the TV station had switched from either HD or SD programming to the other--I can't remember which way they switched. It was distracting, but didn't cause any problems.


"Degaussing" could also be called "demagnetizing." Many TV's and monitors now have this feature built-in, including the '960. It activates a coil that removes residual magnetism. What you'll notice is it removes any color impurities you may occasionally see on the screen.


Mark


----------



## billmail1

*GEEZ. Open the set yourself....take the subwoofer off the yoke if you are so inclined and look for yourself.*


------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


I can't believe that someone on this forum would tell someone else to remove the back of the TV to have look. If they are lucky and nothing happens mybe they should also stick a knife into an electrical socket to also have a look.


HDTVFanAtic: Quit the "name calling" and get back to offering some useful (and safe) information more in line with the subject of this thread.


----------



## amirm

A pop that doesn't result in performance change would be odd. Most things that short out with enough current to make a sound like that, are also liable to cause some kind of grief somewhere.


It is possible that something is arching from the high voltage drive but that would cause some kind of picture anamoly when the pop occurs.


So here is another hypothesis. As a set warms up, its case expands and is very typical to hear it creek/crack (kind of like the sturcture in your house). I routinely hear this on CRT sets. I would not however, describe this sound usually as a pop.


Anyway, if the set is performing well, I would not worry about it. Keep using the set though to make sure if something is going to go wrong, it does so quickly so that you can get it fixed under warranty.


Amir


----------



## CaseCom

CNet has posted its review of this set:

http://reviews.cnet.com/Sony_KD_34XB...0787600-2.html


----------



## snclawson

My set has started to `POP' too. =( Or rather, the second one with the bad tuner has started to do this; the first one (good tuner) never did it.


It's definetely not the `creaks' from the TV expanding. Mine does that too, I'm used to that. =)


No, this would seem to be something arcing in the set. On mine I get a loud POP, the picture blanks out with a green glow, then comes back. It's been happening more frequently too. At first it only happened maybe every hour or so, but the other night it was doing it every 5-10 minutes! I unplugged the set and let it rest for a bit after that and it stopped doing it...but a day or two later it started up again. It dosen't really seem to matter which input I'm using (I've seend it using the internal tuner, component and HDMI inputs).


Needless to say, I'm not really happy about it. I can only guess that this isn't particularly good for the set when it happens.


----------



## Rizzle




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by silvertone_
> *another pic.*



I've got the same geometry problems. I actually posted about it back in mid-July when I was one of the first to get a 960. It's just like yours, picture is fine until you get to the last 4~6 inches of the left and right edges. All corners bow-in towards the center. Slight, but very noticable and annoying.


----------



## juandixon

i am noticing a trend that a lotta earlier sets are having problems. I wonder if someone with a new set(>8004xxxx ) are experiencing those very issues.


i also noticed a lotta problem sets are from CC, maybe the same dude who is not handling those sets correctly.


----------



## snclawson

My new set (good geometry, bad tuner and now `POP's) has a mid 4500's serial number. It was manufactured in July.


----------



## silvertone




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by snclawson_
> *My new set (good geometry, bad tuner and now `POP's) has a mid 4500's serial number. It was manufactured in July.*



Mine is fresh out of the oven, manufactured this month. No tuner problems, no pops, but certainly geometry problems in all corners, and geometry problems on the bottom half center of the screen (bowing).


----------



## silvertone




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by CaseCom_
> *CNet has posted its review of this set:
> 
> http://reviews.cnet.com/Sony_KD_34XB...0787600-2.html *




The review is on the money about everything, unfortunately there's no mention whatsoever of the geometry. So, this review is half the story. No doubt in my opinion, if this set had ok geometry it'd be hands down the best tv ever assembled/designed.


----------



## Phantastica

Another new problem I'd like to report...


About once every few hours (regardless of how long the set has been turned on) the whole image has a massive "blip". The screen contracts from all sizes, get's dim, and looks slightly wavey. It all happens in less than a second and it's completely silent. Surely this isn't a good sign?


BTW, my power seems to be clean on everything else in our place and our old tv didn't do anything like this. If it was a massive power fluctuation then it would probably affect my computers too, but they're all fine.


----------



## 56Oval




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by silvertone_
> *Mine is fresh out of the oven, manufactured this month. No tuner problems, no pops, but certainly geometry problems in all corners, and geometry problems on the bottom half center of the screen (bowing).*



Hi Silvertone. Don't give up yet. Other sets have great geometry. Of the three that I owned, my first (even though it had the tuner problem) had almost perfect geometry out of the box. I had a vertical convergence problem in SD mode that I fixed with the service menu, and a very very slight horizontal convergence problem in the upper right corner, that I thought was livable.


I'd roll the dice and try for another one.


----------



## cad_3




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by silvertone_
> *The review is on the money about everything, unfortunately there's no mention whatsoever of the geometry. So, this review is half the story. No doubt in my opinion, if this set had ok geometry it'd be hands down the best tv ever assembled/designed.*



Cool. Thanks for the link.


As for the lack of commentary on geometry, maybe they got a good tv. I mean, we all know that Sony has only produced 30 of these tvs total. Which is why no one can seem to get their hands on one. (Heck, JBW has gone through 10% of their total stock!) And 27 of you have complained about geometry so -obviously- 90% of the tv's are absolute crap... but maybe... just maybe... Cnet got a tv like mine. (I'm mean we've got a whole 10% here... why that's into double digits!










Good geometry (only the faintest hints, and the ISF guy did a great job removing 98% of the issue-you can only see it if you're within 2 feet of the tv)... No other problems or issues. Then they calibrated it, and it's... well... 8.8! They highest Direct-view rating!










But then... that's just my opinion...

-C


----------



## Newest Hobby

Well, I have to be honest. I was watching an NTSC show last night and in the very upper left and right corners there was a very slight bend in the picture. I have decided to return my unit and try another....This was very upsetting...


Not!! While I may have been lucky and got a good one, I was thinking to myself is this what these guys are talking about? I mean no disrespect but if this is the case, relax and watch the best unit $2200 can buy. You guys have made me want to start looking for a problem...And yes I saw a slight geometry issue last night.


While I have Direct and don't use the card slot and can see that would be a very big issue, I really don't see the geometry issues on my set nor do I want to spend hours looking for one...


Now my speakers are a different issue and maybe I shouldn't talk about looking for perfection...!!


Four weeks (or five weeks??) and my Sony is dang near perfection.....


-Rick




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by cad_3_
> *Cool. Thanks for the link.
> 
> 
> As for the lack of commentary on geometry, maybe they got a good tv. I mean, we all know that Sony has only produced 30 of these tvs total. Which is why no one can seem to get their hands on one. (Heck, JBW has gone through 10% of their total stock!) And 27 of you have complained about geometry so -obviously- 90% of the tv's are absolute crap... but maybe... just maybe... Cnet got a tv like mine. (I'm mean we've got a whole 10% here... why that's into double digits!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good geometry (only the faintest hints, and the ISF guy did a great job removing 98% of the issue-you can only see it if you're within 2 feet of the tv)... No other problems or issues. Then they calibrated it, and it's... well... 8.8! They highest Direct-view rating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But then... that's just my opinion...
> 
> -C*


----------



## silvertone

Congratulations, sounds like you got a good set. Personally speaking I don't think anybody is looking for the problem, in most of the posts the problems have been reported because they are pretty obvious. In my case I can live with the slight geometry problems on the corners, those don't bother me much. But, when I bring up my directv guide I'd like to see horizontal lines not sinosoudal waves. I could have a bought a $5k tv, but I didn't and bought this one because I value pefornmance and not size. It is our right as consumers to demand quality, by returning the sets or complaining about them we're sending the right message to Sony to pay careful attention to quality control in their future products.


----------



## Newest Hobby

Hi there Silvertone...


I guess what makes my mind spin is I work for a huge Mobility Solutions Company here in the Valley. We make Barcode Scanners, Wireless Hand- Held computers etc. I am very involved in Product Engineering Changes, Stop ship, etc. on our Products.


It still boggles my mind that there can be so many issues from some folks but like myself almost none? I understand that many are having problems but I don't understand why I am not. I have had this unit for four to five weeks so I must have one of the earliest? But once again, it's near perfection....????? It's a crazy thing no doubt....


Rick



> Quote:
> _Originally posted by silvertone_
> *Congratulations, sounds like you got a good set. Personally speaking I don't think anybody is looking for the problem, in most of the posts the problems have been reported because they are pretty obvious. In my case I can live with the slight geometry problems on the corners, those don't bother me much. But, when I bring up my directv guide I'd like to see horizontal lines not sinosoudal waves. I could have a bought a $5k tv, but I didn't and bought this one because I value pefornmance and not size. It is our right as consumers to demand quality, by returning the sets or complaining about them we're sending the right message to Sony to pay careful attention to quality control in their future products.*


----------



## RobertF

Perhaps Sony is having some quality control issues with the 960s. The problems could be at the component level or even with assembly. But it's entirely possible that all 960s are not created equally. The fact that individual owners have had several 960s with a mix of problems could make one wonder about quality control.


Or is it possible that the sets could be damaged in transit from less than careful handling?


Bob




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Newest Hobby_
> *It still boggles my mind that there can be so many issues from some folks but like myself almost none? I understand that many are having problems but I don't understand why I am not. I have had this unit for four to five weeks so I must have one of the earliest? But once again, it's near perfection....????? It's a crazy thing no doubt....
> 
> 
> Rick*


----------



## billmail1

Is anyone using (or has anyone used) the HDMI input (Video 7) from any source? My DirecTV HD DVR has HDMI and component out. The 960 will accomodate both signals but I'm not sure which one to use. Does anyone have any experience using the HDMI? Did the picture quality seem to look better than the component signal? Any problems with the HDMI connection? Do you prefer one over the other and, if so, why? I would just like some comments/experiences from anyone who is using (or has used) HDMI.


Thanks very much.


Bill


----------



## mikeny

Bill,


I'm using a DVI-HDMI cable from the Hughes HTL-HD receiver to the XBR960. I use this Video 7 for Hi-Def channels only. The picture is excellent. Do I notice much of a difference as compared to when I had the component cable in? Not really, to be honest. I have not encountered any problems using the HDMI (DVI-HDMI) cable, audio or video. I toggle back to S-Video for SD. (Video 3)


The Hughes has a switch in the box which needs to be selected for either Component out or DVI out. Since I have it set the DVI I don't use the components at all.


----------



## Trumbore

This is my first post on this forum. Over the past two months, I've found the information here to be very helpful as I planned for, bought and installed my 960. I want to thank all of you for your contributions.


I've had my 960 for a week now, and am very happy with it. I have the seemingly common "tuner problem," but it actually seems to be happening less as time goes by. My geometry is very good, though a critical eye could spot minor bending in some situations. There has been no popping so far.


When I first hooked the TV up to my cable (no set top box), I had trouble getting HD reception. At the time, I didn't know about the tuner problem, and it certainly complicated my efforts. Eventually, I made several improvements to my cable line that allowed me to tune HD channels. In my case, I was able to receive most channels when the signal to noise ratio (SNR) reached 27. I was eventually able to get it up to 31-32, and feel I now have some room to spare if I need to do something that might degrade the SNR.


Here are the things that made a difference with my SNR:


* Switch from R-59 coaxial cable to R-6, which has a thicker wire. If your coax runs through a noisy environment (lots of electrical wires or other signals), consider R-6 cable with superior shielding (I saw some at Radio Shack, but didn't need it).


* Avoid splitting your signal. When the cable comes into my house it is immediately split three ways. The line that runs to my 960 was being split again to go to a Tivo and VCR. Each splitter in the line cost me 1-2 dB of SNR. Look closely at your splitter, too, as the different outputs may provide varying signal strengths (lower dB labels seem to indicate less degradation).


* Check the ends of your coax cables and avoid unnecessarily stringin together multiple cables. Each junction is an opportunity for problems. I am now running one 50 ft R-6 cable from the best terminal of my house splitter directly to the 960. A second line serves the Tivo and VCR.


As has been mentioned by others, the HD Olympics broadcast quality has been disappointing. At first, I wrongly though my reception or TV were to blame. I should have known better, since a digital signal is what it is, and you either receive it or you don't (you can't get "lousy" reception as is possible with analog signals).


I read one explanation on another AVS forum that made sense to me, but which I cannot verify. In the US, the networks have a certain amount of bandwidth in which they can pass signals on to their affiliates. This bandwidth is sufficient for a lossless HD signal. When the HD and NTSC content is the same, the NTSC content can be extracted from the HD signal (cropped and filtered, of course).


However, for the Olympics NBC is providing different content for HD and NTSC, so it needs to send two signals in its given bandwidth. Making room for the NTSC signal forces the HD compression to be "lossy," with the missing information showing up as blocks/pixelation. Since the compression is based on the similarity of one frame with the one before it, still shots and slow pans look great, while fast motion (swimmers and runners) do not. It's too bad this is the case, but it is not a problem we 960 owners can or have to fix.


OK, that's enough of a brain dump for now. Back to watching TV!


Ben


----------



## andrewjnyc

I've had my 960 for a week now, and I'm immensely happy with it. However, this has unfortunately been a week in which I've had to spend way more time than I'd like at the office, so I haven't been able to use the set quite as much as I'd like. Only last night did I get the chance to watch a 1.85:1 movie on the set--and, to my surprise, it appeared to fill up the entire screen instead of being slightly letterboxed. I double- and triple-checked to make sure the screen mode was set to "full" rather than any of the zoom or stretch modes. I assume this is the result of the unit's out-of-the-box overscan settings. Does that seem right? The only real evidence of overscan was a little bit of the opening credits getting cut off on the left side. I'm having an ISF calibration done in a couple weeks, which will address the overscan situation, and I don't plan to touch it myself until then. Still, it seems like a pretty significant amout of overscan, though maybe the difference between 1.85:1 and 1.78:1 comes out to less in real world terms than I thought it would.


----------



## TKO

Maybe there is hope...


I just got off the phone with Crutchfield to exchange my 960 after the Sony technician was unable to correct the geometry issues. I asked how many people have returned their 960. Crutchfield said they received a batch of 500 tv's and I am the first to return one. I didn't ask how many they have sold however.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Trumbore_
> *This is my first post on this forum. Over the past two months, I've found the information here to be very helpful as I planned for, bought and installed my 960. I want to thank all of you for your contributions.
> 
> 
> I've had my 960 for a week now, and am very happy with it. I have the seemingly common "tuner problem," but it actually seems to be happening less as time goes by. My geometry is very good, though a critical eye could spot minor bending in some situations. There has been no popping so far.
> 
> 
> When I first hooked the TV up to my cable (no set top box), I had trouble getting HD reception. At the time, I didn't know about the tuner problem, and it certainly complicated my efforts. Eventually, I made several improvements to my cable line that allowed me to tune HD channels. In my case, I was able to receive most channels when the signal to noise ratio (SNR) reached 27. I was eventually able to get it up to 31-32, and feel I now have some room to spare if I need to do something that might degrade the SNR.
> 
> 
> Here are the things that made a difference with my SNR:
> 
> 
> * Switch from R-59 coaxial cable to R-6, which has a thicker wire. If your coax runs through a noisy environment (lots of electrical wires or other signals), consider R-6 cable with superior shielding (I saw some at Radio Shack, but didn't need it).
> 
> 
> * Avoid splitting your signal. When the cable comes into my house it is immediately split three ways. The line that runs to my 960 was being split again to go to a Tivo and VCR. Each splitter in the line cost me 1-2 dB of SNR. Look closely at your splitter, too, as the different outputs may provide varying signal strengths (lower dB labels seem to indicate less degradation).
> 
> 
> * Check the ends of your coax cables and avoid unnecessarily stringin together multiple cables. Each junction is an opportunity for problems. I am now running one 50 ft R-6 cable from the best terminal of my house splitter directly to the 960. A second line serves the Tivo and VCR.
> 
> 
> As has been mentioned by others, the HD Olympics broadcast quality has been disappointing. At first, I wrongly though my reception or TV were to blame. I should have known better, since a digital signal is what it is, and you either receive it or you don't (you can't get "lousy" reception as is possible with analog signals).
> 
> 
> I read one explanation on another AVS forum that made sense to me, but which I cannot verify. In the US, the networks have a certain amount of bandwidth in which they can pass signals on to their affiliates. This bandwidth is sufficient for a lossless HD signal. When the HD and NTSC content is the same, the NTSC content can be extracted from the HD signal (cropped and filtered, of course).
> 
> 
> However, for the Olympics NBC is providing different content for HD and NTSC, so it needs to send two signals in its given bandwidth. Making room for the NTSC signal forces the HD compression to be "lossy," with the missing information showing up as blocks/pixelation. Since the compression is based on the similarity of one frame with the one before it, still shots and slow pans look great, while fast motion (swimmers and runners) do not. It's too bad this is the case, but it is not a problem we 960 owners can or have to fix.
> 
> 
> OK, that's enough of a brain dump for now. Back to watching TV!
> 
> 
> Ben*



Ben, you've given some great tips regarding cables and splitters. But I don't buy the explanation of the bandwidth. First of all, every TV signal throughout the World is some kind of engineering trade-off. Our digital system (8VSB) is something we're stuck with, just like in the analog world we're stuck with NTSC. Anyway, the digital channels are on separate, discrete channels. There is no "borrowing" being done from the analog channel. Your 960's diagnostic menu tells you the "physical channel"--that's the 4.5 MHz channel assignment given to transmit digital signals. These are the same channel assignments we've always had! (The FCC didn't change the spectrum numbering sequence or channel bandwidth).


Now, a full-bandwidth uncompressed HDTV signal would take up a number of these channels (anyone know how many?--I believe would be a 270 mb. signal taking up 6 channels!) But of course, we DO have compression, so it's just a question of how much compression is still "acceptable." Well, of course all HDTV is not the same! 1080i "needs" more bandwidth than 780p, and 780p "needs" more than 480p. So, the broadcasters determine which format they want to transmit, and how many digital channels they want to squeeze into their spectrum. The bottom-line is that HDTV IS vastly superior to analog, but that there have been some very real engineering--and economic--trade-offs made. Therefore, those of us with superior TV's







will be forced to watch some pixellation that others may not notice.


Sorry to get on the soapbox. It's just that I love my '960, and I know about some of the trade-offs the broadcasters are making.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by billmail1_
> *GEEZ. Open the set yourself....take the subwoofer off the yoke if you are so inclined and look for yourself.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> I can't believe that someone on this forum would tell someone else to remove the back of the TV to have look. If they are lucky and nothing happens mybe they should also stick a knife into an electrical socket to also have a look.
> 
> 
> HDTVFanAtic: Quit the "name calling" and get back to offering some useful (and safe) information more in line with the subject of this thread.*




Yes, if you don't want to know the truth, just like the Wizard of Oz, don't look behind the curtain.


If however you want to know the truth


1) In the California plant all the 960's are pointed due West as apoint of reference and then a factory worker (who probably doesn't speak english - not that that matters) sticks several magnets on the tube.


This can be seen by pulling the back off and removing the subwoofer which is mounted above the yoke.


These are actually INFERIOR magnets to the type Sony sends to the field. The field magnets have an actual knob to control intensity, where the factory magnets do not.


At the factory, they have a certain time to get it close and out it goes. 95% of the people won't notice or care.


2) The person at your house has a better interest in getting it right. They don't want to come back over and over - nor do they want the set returned.


3) Not all tubes will be able to be fixed. Some will have to go back.


4) The people shipping their sets back without letting a local tech try to do something better than the inferior factory magnets is a crybaby and will never get the set they want.


5) The Sony ATSC tuner is no different than any other. They all exhibit the same characteristics people are saying is a default. I have 5 others that do the exact same thing.


6) The Sony Tuner is superior to most. It pulls in signals that other will not


7) The Sony Tuner is ONE OF THE ONLY ONES that is working properly with the CableCards. Scientific Atlanta know admits there is a major problem with the Panasonic and other sets with their refresh. It causes blocking to get worse and worse to where the set has to be unplugged every day to reset it. This is due to SA building to tight specs and Panasonic and others not building to the tight spec. THE SONY IS THE ONLY ONE NOT REPORTING A PROBLEM.


End Of Post


End Of Post


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

"4) The people shipping their sets back without letting a local tech try to do something better than the inferior factory magnets is a crybaby and will never get the set they want."


What the hell is this remark for? Am I crybaby??? Let me see. On my first 960 I did call a tech to fix the geometry. I told him about the magnet. The tech said "magnets has nothing to do with the problem of geometry" He opens the back of the tv set, adjusts the yolk, and actually worsens the tv set and saying it is fixed. Tech KNOWS NOTHING!!!! get a sony tech to fix it.. NOT a third party!


----------



## BTV Mark

Ben, there IS an example of "bandwidth borrowing" that I know of. Sorry I didn't think of this last night. (The beers may have clouded my thinking







) Perhaps this is what you read about on that other forum:


At the satellite earth station, there are two basic ways of uplinking the signals--Single Carrier per Channel (SCPC), and Multiple Carriers per Channel (MCPC). I don't know which system NBC might be choosing to use.


SCPC is pretty much what it says--one data stream goes into the satellite at a dedicated bandwidth. That bandwidth doesn't change, no matter what the program content is. Therefore, most broadcsters pick a relatively high amount of transpoinder space, so their programs look good when received.


MCPC, on the other hand, puts more than one signal within a given amount of bandwidth. Then, sophisticated encoders are able to "dynamically balance" the percentage allocation of this bandwidth--in real time--so that those programs that need more bandwidth at that instant "borrow" it from those programs that don't. So, for example, a camera panning down the football field needs more bandwidth than an anchorman reading a story. And, of course, a second later that football shot is locked on a graphic, while the anchorman scene changes to a police chase. So they "swap" bandwidth as needed. I can't explain it further than that, but it's done on a frame-by-frame basis and it's magic! Without MCPS technology, DirectTV and EchoStar would have a very difficult time competing with cable TV.


One of the leading encoder manufacturers is Harmonic. You might find more information at their website: http://www.harmonicinc.com/pa_digital_video.cfm 


Mark


----------



## tennberg

Just got my 34XBR960 delieverd about 45 minutes ago, and began watching Lord of the Rings - The Two Towers on it. The thing is *huge*. I don't recall it looking that big in the store. Nevertheless, the picture is great, will only get better after calibration, and, yes, the non-digital cable channels are, well, non-digital.


The serial number is in the low 80058xx's and was manufactured in August 2004. The geometry seems really great so far, except for some MINOR bowing in the upper left corner when watching LOTR.


The guys who delivered it said not to play with color/contrast for 2 weeks to let the unit "burn in". Any truth to that?


I am probably going to schedule an ISF technician to come within a month or so to calibrate every aspect of the TV. The guy I contacted, Jim Doolittle, based in Waltham, MA (about 7 miles from me), is apparently well-renowned and has been featured in high-end publiations. He said the 960 calibration would run $300 and that he has already done several of these sets.


Any comments/questions are welcome.


----------



## Phantastica




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by HDTVFanAtic_
> *
> 
> 
> 1) In the California plant all the 960's are pointed due West as apoint of reference and then a factory worker (who probably doesn't speak english - not that that matters) sticks several magnets on the tube.
> 
> *



Not that it matters? Then why mention it? We live in a wonderful age where we have a backspace key, which allows us to remove ignorant comments before posting them. Try using it the next time you feel like pointedly implying that only English speaking Americans can work magnets.


I'm sure there are a lot of us that appreciate you trying to educate us a little more about the manufacturing process, but it would be cool if you were less of an ass about it.


----------



## billmail1

Tennberg,


I had my previous 910 ISF calibrated and it made a huge difference in the quality of the picture. Until you get yours done, I would recommend that, depending on what picture mode you are using, lower the Picture level to about 50. You may have to also raise Brightness a little but you should see an immediate improvement in PQ. Your ISF calibrator will do all of this for you plus a whole lot more. I think you'll really like the results and it is well worth the money. Good luck and let us know how you like it after calibration.


Bill


----------



## Segaboy

Tennberg,


I would put your 960 in Pro Mode and then drop the brightness, picture, and color down. Nothing should be past the 50% mark.


If you leave them higher during the first 100 hours on your set, it could prematurely shorten the life of your 960...UGH!


----------



## Doug_L

First post about my new 960:


Has some minor geometry problems: bowing at the top of 4:3 frame (more on the left than the right). Also there's some slight defousing of the image in the corners, though in my opinion this is no worse than any other large flat-screen tube on the market. Might have a tech come out to try and fix (whether he speaks English or not...) but if this is as bad as the picture gets, there's no reason to send it back.


I have no idea if my tuner is working as I'm using a HD cable box. If it's important for everybody's scorecard I can try the sucker out. Likewise, I can try and find the unit number and anything else that will help others.


I'm noticing a few things though, that I'd like help with (keep in mind this is the first HDTV I've owned):


1) When watching HD (God I love the Olympics) there seems to be a slight jerkiness in the image. It's hard to explain, but it only seems to happen on HD that's native video (NBC, Discovery HD). Could be a 1080i/720p issue, but I haven't watched anything on ABC yet. Movies on HBO and Showtime look rock solid (are they 720p?). Thought about DRC, but it's disabled with HD... and yes, SVM is off.


2) There definitely seems to be a bit of a lip-sync problem. I've noticed this today both on SD and HD. My video path is via component to the TV and digital coax to my receiver. Anybody else noticed this? Seems like it's not a line doubling issue as it's happening with HD.


3) Are the 4 different picture modes set to the same baseline? In other words, if I set Vivid and Pro to the exact same settings for a given input (including SVM, color temp, brightness, etc) will the picture look identical? I've never confirmed this, but I've always sensed that Sony has different baseline settings for these picture modes (ie: 0 Picture on Vivid is equal to 10 Picture on Pro).


4) Lastly, can anybody confirm that Color Temp Warm with Color Axis set to Monitor is closest to 6500K?


Thanks.


----------



## billmail1

Doug,


To respond to your item #3, I remember trying the same thing on my 910 (all four modes at the exact same settings) and each picture mode was still different (some more than others). I wouldn't say that one mode was better than the other but there was a lot of discussion in the 910 thread about Gamma levels and black level retention (and some stuff that I still don't understand) that were set at the factory. Not sure if adjustments in the Service Menu would even things out but, unless you really know what you are doing, stay out of the Service Menu. Just set all of the user controls in each mode to the same settings and then cycle through all four modes. I believe you will see a distinct difference in each one. Your eyes will definitely let you know which mode you might like best and which settings should be "tweaked". Please remember that I am referring to the user controls on the front of the set only. If, after setting them all the same, you don't like any of them you can always select each mode in the Video menu and press the "Reset" button on your remote to reset all the user controls to the factory settings. If you still prefer something different (or better??) you might want to consider having the set ISF calibrated. They can really work miracles on the PQ. Good luck!!


Bill


----------



## Doug_L

Well, I need to amend my #1 above. The slight jerkiness is apparent when viewing SD through the HD connections as well. I am currently watching a Formula One race on Speed Channel and there is a difference in the picture when watching through Video 5, which uses a component hook-up from cable box, and Video 1 which uses a S-Video connection from the same cable box.


It could be the cables; I have not yet tried to swap them out, and they are definitely not top quality component cables. I'll also try the same cables on a different video input.


Otherwise, this could be a real problem.


----------



## tennberg

Doug_L,


In response to your #1:


I just got my 960 today and hooked up my Denon 910 DVD player to it via component video to Video 6. I set the Denon to progressive scan and started watching LOTR: The Two Towers. Absolutely gorgeous. I can't wait to see what it looks like after an ISF calibration.


I then popped in The Fifth Element, one of my favorite DVDs. I noticed that the top of the picture was jumping/flickering a bit while the bottom was not. If I switched the Denon to interlaced, it went away.


I am not sure if this is a problem with the DVD player, the TV, or the component cables. They're Monster M-Series 1000CV, their top-of-the-line. It may be due to the fact that the cables are almost 4 years old (from a previous setup). I am contacting Monster Cable to see if I can exchance them since they have a lifetime warranty.


Any suggestions on things I can try to make this flicker go away?


----------



## Segaboy

I can almost gurantee that the cables are fine.


My guess is that it is the DVD player 'mixed' with the 960.


It is kinda like making a cake. On their own, each component of the cake is fine, but if you 'mix' them in the wrong quantities, the cake is no good.


Therefore, your DVD is fine, as you said at 480i, no problem.


The 960 is fine, but when you 'mix' 480p from your Denon with your 960 a problem pops up...


----------



## tennberg

Hey segaboy,


I'm kicking myself for not finding this out earlier.


Searching the keywords "Denon 910 Sony flicker" on Google brought up MANY posts where people who have Denon DVD-910 players connected to Sony XBR TVs over component video would get flickers and jumps in the video in progressive mode. They also went on to mention that this does *not* happen with S-Video, with interlaced mode, or with non-Sony TVs, which I also found out to be true.


I called Denon and, surprise, they've *never* heard of the problem. They offered to "take a look" at it and see if they might be able to fix it. Estimated downtime: at least 2 weeks.


I left a message with the guy I bought the 34XBR960 from at Tweeter, saying we need to figure out this problem since I basically can't use the TV and DVD player the way they were meant to be used, and that I might need to return the TV if this doesn't work out (that should get his attention). I also purchased the Denon DVD player from that particular store, in addition to hundreds of dollars in cables, stands, etc. So, I'm hoping they'll pull through on this one.


I'll keep you posted.


----------



## Salem_Sony

Hey Tennberg, I live in Salem and I'm in the process in buying the 34XBR960 sometime in mid September (working on the house so I don't want any dust on the new tv). I would definite love to hear your comments from the ISF technician from Waltham once you get it done.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by tennberg_
> *Just got my 34XBR960 delieverd about 45 minutes ago, and began watching Lord of the Rings - The Two Towers on it. The thing is *huge*. I don't recall it looking that big in the store. Nevertheless, the picture is great, will only get better after calibration, and, yes, the non-digital cable channels are, well, non-digital.
> 
> 
> The serial number is in the low 80058xx's and was manufactured in August 2004. The geometry seems really great so far, except for some MINOR bowing in the upper left corner when watching LOTR.
> 
> 
> The guys who delivered it said not to play with color/contrast for 2 weeks to let the unit "burn in". Any truth to that?
> 
> 
> I am probably going to schedule an ISF technician to come within a month or so to calibrate every aspect of the TV. The guy I contacted, Jim Doolittle, based in Waltham, MA (about 7 miles from me), is apparently well-renowned and has been featured in high-end publiations. He said the 960 calibration would run $300 and that he has already done several of these sets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any comments/questions are welcome.*




Some people here make it so difficult to give a straight answer (not you).

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ss#post4185968


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Phantastica_
> *Not that it matters? Then why mention it? We live in a wonderful age where we have a backspace key, which allows us to remove ignorant comments before posting them. Try using it the next time you feel like pointedly implying that only English speaking Americans can work magnets.
> 
> 
> I'm sure there are a lot of us that appreciate you trying to educate us a little more about the manufacturing process, but it would be cool if you were less of an ass about it.*



Point is, they could give a rats ass about your sony. You are more likely to get someone who cares locally, not 10 feet from the Mexican Border.


As another post says on this page, an ISF tech has already done several 960s. Thus as I have already said, most people aren't sending them back a second or third time.


As I stated, 75 960s came into tweeter in Florida. They are sold out. Another 75 come in tomorrow. The techs have only been called out to 2 of the 75 in the 8 County area here. That says something in itself compared to those who have sent multiple units back here.


The crybabies who think they will get perfection out of the box from some worker who probably never saw a tv until recently sticking magnets on their set in 60 seconds or less versus someone in their house trying to make it work is ridiculous.


But some people just want to complain instead of trying to get a good TV to work.


----------



## Alan Gouger

Lets keep this civil


----------



## CPanther95

Got my 960 today - great picture. Had it on for about 1hr and turned it off. Now when I go to turn it on, I get a horizontal red line in the middle of the screen. Then the screen goes full red then gets extremely bright red before it shuts off. Whole process takes about 5 or 6 seconds. Does the same thing with nothing hooked to the inputs.


Any ideas, or is this a bad set?


----------



## silvertone

For all of you that are having these problems, try:


1. Turn off the set.

2. Roate it 90 degrees, so that the set faces South.

3. Turn the TV back on and check.


All my bowing problems completey dissapear when I do that. As a matter of fact I get almost 'pefect' geometry. Now, that doesn't help me much since my living room is not laid out that way. A technician will be out here next week, not sure what he can do to aliviate the situation.


----------



## Yung




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by silvertone_
> *For all of you that are having these problems, try:
> 
> 
> 1. Turn off the set.
> 
> 2. Roate it 90 degrees, so that the set faces South.
> 
> 3. Turn the TV back on and check.
> 
> 
> All my bowing problems completey dissapear when I do that. As a matter of fact I get almost 'pefect' geometry. Now, that doesn't help me much since my living room is not laid out that way. A technician will be out here next week, not sure what he can do to aliviate the situation.*



This is a bit hard to do and cumbersome with a 196lb tv.


----------



## silvertone




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Yung_
> *This is a bit hard to do and cumbersome with a 196lb tv.*




Mine is on a wood stand that slides very easy on my carpet.


----------



## Yung




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by silvertone_
> *Mine is on a wood stand that slides very easy on my carpet.*



I see, mine will be on a glass & metal stand...so that's the reason for my comment.


----------



## ganleybob

Got my new 960.


Small geometry problems, could probably ignore them, really only seem to show up when I've got a menu up that has straight line borders.


3 other issues that really bother me:


1) On SD source images (non hd channels) there is a brighter line that runs down the right side of the image between the image and the black bar.


2) Even on high def channels (I have comcast using components) there seems to be "snow" in places where I'd expect solid color, dots of slightly varying color that change constantly. For SD images the quality of the picture is even poorer, quite grainy.


3) Lip Sync issues when using my home theatre reciever.


Are others running into these issues? What should I do? I've got to say I'm not pleased with the picture quality. I expected much better. I just got rid of a 30" samsung HD and I thought the PQ on that was better than this new 960...


Bob


----------



## Hutch




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by silvertone_
> *For all of you that are having these problems, try:
> 
> 
> 1. Turn off the set.
> 
> 2. Roate it 90 degrees, so that the set faces South.
> 
> 3. Turn the TV back on and check.
> 
> 
> All my bowing problems completey dissapear when I do that. As a matter of fact I get almost 'pefect' geometry. Now, that doesn't help me much since my living room is not laid out that way. A technician will be out here next week, not sure what he can do to aliviate the situation.*




Silvertone is right. I had discovered this also and was about to post the same thing. Just the other night, my wife and I tried re organizing our furniture in our apartment. I moved my XBR960 all the way across the room and facing the opposite direction (I just slid it nice and slow on my carpet on its XBR stand.. wasn't too bad). Turned the TV on and all of a sudden, my almost perfect geometry was all screwed up.

I then moved the TV back to its original location, and everything was near perfect again. I was relieved. Strange how sensitive these TV's are. I really wanted to have my TV on the other side of the room.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by ganleybob_
> *
> 
> 3) Lip Sync issues when using my home theatre reciever.
> 
> 
> Bob*



I've observed lip sync issues for quite a few years now. In the past, audio was typically ahead of video. because video was fed through at least one "frame store" between the network and the local transmitter. Each frame store introduces a delay of up to one frame (1/30th of a second). To my eyes, lip sync looks "off" at 2 frames, but most people don't notice it until it gets to 3 or 4 frames. Many times, I've noticed analog broadcasts with terrible lip sync issues. (There are digital audio delay devices that they could employ to fix these issues.) Audio has always been the forgotten stepchild of television.


Now, in the digital age, we are introducing a brief AUDIO delay in digital home theater units. And I'm sure we have a brief delay processing the video signal. (I haven't tried comparing my '960 tuned to an analog channel side-by-side an analog TV tuned to the same channel--anyone else try this? My guess is the '960 does not introduce an appreciable delay--turn up the audio to see if you hear a slight echo between the two audio feeds.)


So, my point is that the broadcasters are doing a lousy job of ensuring correct lip sync. It's not the fault of your set. (My lip sync varies by program--obviously the TV would introduce a fixed delay.) If the network sends audio delayed 1 frame, and the local station delays it another frame, and it'll be 2 frames off, and you'll probably notice it. If the network is already off by 2 frames...well, you get the idea.


Clearly, the broadcasters don't pay nearly enough attention to the audio on HD channels. That will come as the audience grows--especially when the analog channels are turned off--but for now, we can't do anything about it. I'd have to grade them a B for video and a D for audio.




Mark


----------



## foxfan

Damn it!!! I have no choice but to keep it facing NE. I didn't buy it yet but I'm anxious to see what it's going to look like.


Someone also mentioned that your geographic location also affects your geometry (eg. Florida horrible). Has anyone here tried this set in Northern NY or VT? Feedback would be appreciated.


----------



## ganleybob

BTV Mark:


Thanks for the input. Unfortunately I think that this has to do with the TV and here's why. I have both the 960 and the Home Theatre hooked up to the Comcast box. If I turn up the speakers on the 960, the sound is in synch. If I turn up the HT, the sound comes out a lot sooner than from the 960. Sometimes the difference is a lot eg: 1/2 second, other times it is closer. Either way I can't watch a talking head with my home theatre sound on it is too weird.


----------



## 56Oval

I've got it figured out!!


If pointing your TV south fixes the convergence problems... and you want to rearrange your room to have the TV on a certain wall....


Move to the North Pole!!


Every wall will face South!


(Oooops. I guess you need to move to the Magnetic North Pole for that to work though.)


Maybe that is the cause of all our convergence problems: Santa's little elves make these TV's at the North Pole and when they ship them down here below the Artic circle their convergence gets all jacked up!


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by ganleybob_
> *BTV Mark:
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input. Unfortunately I think that this has to do with the TV and here's why. I have both the 960 and the Home Tearer hooked up to the Comcast box. If I turn up the speakers on the 960, the sound is in synch. If I turn up the HT, the sound comes out a lot sooner than from the 960. Sometimes the difference is a lot eg: 1/2 second, other times it is closer. Either way I can't watch a talking head with my home theatre sound on it is too weird.*



ganleybob, I haven't heard of this before. It sounds like the HT processes the audio "immediately," whereas the 960 properly delays both the audio and video by an equal amount. But since the built-in speakers on the 960 give proper performance, how can you blame the TV? It doesn't "know" you're using a HT system!


I suggest you feed the HT via the audio output of the 960. That way, you will keep audio and video synchronization.


Mark


----------



## Phantastica

I've got a Sony repairman coming by shortly to take a look at all of the problems that I've mentioned (geometry, dark patches), so hopefully he can tune everything up.


One other problem that I noticed this morning is that the HDMI input is MAJORLY sensitive. Depending on where I push in on the back of the tv, it can cause the DVI input to work, or not work altogether. I remember reading about another user having this problem too.


----------



## juandixon

the hdmi being sensitive is a classic issue probably due to a cold solder joint on the connection itself. and being that the hdmi has a lot more wires say over an svideo port, that just means there is a lot more chance that a cold solder can occur on the board itself.


i've seen the same thing that happened to my svideo on my toshiba, the joint was cold solder and it was very sensitive to movement. I had to open the tv and resolder the joint which fixed it.


whatever u do the less wiggling the better or else u will eventually break the connection.


----------



## sanelijo

I've got issues with my Samsung HD841 outputting DVI to my 960. *via a DVI out to HDMI in cable*


All I get is snow, very fine pretty snow, but snow none the less. Same thing when I tried hooking the same cable to my computer's DVI out.


I'm wondering if I have the same issue as you with the plug in the back of the TV. Havn't tried wiggling the plug back there as it seemed pretty secure when I inserted it earlier.


--sanelijo


----------



## juandixon




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by sanelijo_
> *I've got issues with my Samsung HD841 outputting DVI to my 960. *via a DVI out to HDMI in cable*
> 
> 
> All I get is snow, very fine pretty snow, but snow none the less. Same thing when I tried hooking the same cable to my computer's DVI out.
> 
> 
> I'm wondering if I have the same issue as you with the plug in the back of the TV. Havn't tried wiggling the plug back there as it seemed pretty secure when I inserted it earlier.
> 
> 
> --sanelijo*



yours is probably a compability samsung dvi-hdmi sony issue than the hdmi port itself


----------



## Doug_L

OK guys, I could use a little help: SD really doesn't look too good to me, and I'm hoping you could all give me some advice.


Due to burn-in issues, I'm watching SD (4:3) primarily in Wide Zoom mode. This may not be completely necessary (burn-in) but I'd rather play it safe for the time being. Normal mode looks better, but still not good, merely acceptable.


My video signal comes into my TV two ways: 1) component directly from the cable box (Input #5) and 2) S-Video from the cable box via Marantz SR-19 receiver (Input #1). The signal definitely seems better using the components, with the S-Video feed showing crushed black levels and blooming reds.


My current video settings [this is from memory and approximate - so bear with me]

Pro;

Pic:45;

Brght:40;

color: 35;

hue: R1;

sharp:10;

color temp: warm

SVM: Off

DRC: Minimum values

Color Axis: Monitor


I find that there's still a great deal of video noise with the image, and black shadow detail seems weak overall (though this could simply be NTSC's limitations). I use Time Warner cable in Manhattan with a Scientific Atlanta 3250HD box, and I've got all outputs turned on (480i/480p/720p/1080i).


Any suggestions would be appreciated.


----------



## TennBikeBerk

I got my cablecard hooked up. It was the Cox guy's first time ever installing one. When we asked Cox about the cablecard, they asked whether we had one of two certain brands of televisons, and Sony wasn't one of them. The guy on the phone was surprised to hear about our tv.


Cox normally charges $59.95 for a cablecard installation, which is a total ripoff, and after talking to them about it, they got the price down to $19.95. Instead of being a 5 minute Cablecard installation though, the guy ended up having to rewire the cable in the house because we had RG59 instead of RG6.


High-def looks amazing on this tv!!!!!


I have had no problems with the high-definition tuner, except it takes about 3 or 4 seconds to tune into a high-def channel, which is kind of long. Even the 720p channels look much better than the 480i's.


Btw, what does NTSC mean?


----------



## tennberg

Never The Same Color :-D hehe


Actually, it's National Television System Committee.


----------



## TennBikeBerk

Lol. Does that bascially mean 480i 4:3?


----------



## michaelggray

Yes NTSC is 480i 4:3 everything else is ATSC.


----------



## Segaboy

NTSC = Never Twice Same Colour is also acceptable...X gets the square!


----------



## Yung

My XBR960 is being delivered by CC tomorrow morning...can't wait.


----------



## foxfan

I'm looking forward to your review. I'm anxious to see if the new batch that your's will be coming from will have the tuner problem (from the previous posters' reviews) resolved. I'm hoping to go pick mine up in the next week or so...


----------



## soimcrazy

I bought one last week at CC. Had a 10% off coupon that I bought off ebay for a few bucks....saved me $220 !!


The picture is really nice with HDTV. Standard Definition sucks !!


----------



## Yung

Ok, I just got my XBR960 delivered about 2 1/2 hours ago. I don't have cable or satellite and am just using about a 6 year old indoor rabbit-ear antenna from Recoton with UHF/VHF gain contol.


I ran the autosetup...it only took about 10-15 minutes since I am only using OTA. The Auto setup pulled in about 22 analog channels and 9 digital channels. Digital pictures look really sharp, I was watching some of the U.S. Open on ch 2.1


As for problems, well...I guess if you stand really close you can see some slight bowing on the the top left and right black bars when viewing in normal view but nothing to get your panties all bunched up about. Maybe I'm just not picky. I get bad reception on the normal channels, but digital is pretty good. Signal strength for CBS digital varies from 78-84 and it does cut out once in a while. I get about 91-94 strength from ABC HD. The other channels vary from 81-84 signal strength although NBC DT is pretty weak with signal strength in the mid-to-upper 50's..lots of pixelization on that channel when I do get a signal.


I popped in LOTR Two Towers and the picture was great with my new blue jeans 1694A component cables. I still get black bars on top and bottom though..I know there is suppose to be some..but its more than I thought.


Well, haven't played around too much..haven't really even read the menu, just put it on Pro mode as the factory default was vivid.


My TV was manufactured in August with serial # low 80063XX.


----------



## Yung

Post deleted


----------



## daumier

Apologize for the cross-posting - I have posted this subject on the DVD forum as well, but since this may be a problem only affects the XBR960, I thought I'd post here as well ...



Greetings all --


Just picked up the 1910 earlier today. Unfortunately, I bought a DVI-DVI cable as opposed to a DVI-HDMI cable so I did not have the opportunity to view the upconversion (my tv has an HDMI input). I'm using the component video connection in 480p instead.


The component (progressive) pic in 480p is simply amazing. the picture is very vivid and clear -- with great colors (I don't know how else to describe it since I am not quite the videophile  ). My previous player was an old Toshiba SD1209 (I think) - and it simply cannot compete with the 1910.


One interesting issue that I have encountered is that my XBR960 wrongly detects the signal from the DVD player as 4:3 -- eventhough the material is clearly widescreen (anarmorphic). To view widescreen material, I now have to manually set to 'Full'. With my old Toshiba player, the TV correctly picks up the 16:9 format. This matters to me because, when viewing SDTV in 4:3 - I usually use the 'wide-zoom' mode -- which stretches 4:3 materials with less distortion than the 'full' mode would.


In any case - has anyone else encountered this issue? Is this a problem that is specific with my TV? Incidentally, I did set the 'TV Aspect' on the DVD player to 16:9 Wide -- but the TV still detects the programming as 4:3.


Thanks!


D


----------



## Yung

Hmmm....the same thing happened to me when I was watching LOTR and Spiderman on DVD today. I just got the set today and I believe the picture came up in normal mode. I had to set it to wide zoom manually. I didn't check my DVD player setting though. I have the Pioneer DV-578A-S.


I have to say HD is simply amazing..when my signal doesn't crap out. I was watching some Disney CGI animated movie on ABC HD and the picture was simply beautiful. You can see every scale on the dinosaurs.


----------



## Yung

I'm just wondering what settings (brightness, color, contrast, etc.) most people are using in Standard, Pro & Movie mode?


Also what about Neutral vs. Warm?


I have only tweaked in a bit in Pro mode, changing brightness up to 35 and contrast up to about 34.


----------



## TennBikeBerk

I would keep your settings on neutral. Warm adds some orangish tint to the picture.


----------



## doretta

After some experimentation, I'd recommend that no matter what the meters say, anyone with a 960 whose SD is crappy should try an amplifier on their connection.


I have Comcast cable. When I first got my TV the SD looked pretty good. Then it seemed rather variable. After the cablecard was installed, analog channels looked pretty bad, kind of grainy.


The cable guy who installed the cablecard replaced all the cable out to the street but the S/N on HD channels as reported by the 960 was still only 28-30 (QAM 256). The installer's said that as measured by his meter, my low freq S/N was good but at higher freqs, where HD lives, it was not good. I was not seeing any lost pixels so we left it at that. I didn't pay much attention to the analog channels until after he left.


Later I did get lost pixels in HD and it was worse with a VCR inline with the cable connection. The set was reporting S/N in the range of 27-29. I figured the next thing to try was an amplifier.


Got Comcast to send a tech out, he confirmed the S/N was bad at HD freqs. He eventually acknowledged it was not my cables or my VCR but a weak signal from the cable. Without any prompting from me, he stuck an amplifier on the connection to the 960.


I expected from what I had heard that I'd probably stop losing pixels on the HD channels. That did happen but now the analog channels also all look great. Better than I've ever seen on any TV.


I took that to mean that the tuner in the 960 does not deal well with marginal signals. Possibly that is why some people think SD is really bad on the 960 while others think it is good.


Your mileage may vary, all I know is that since the amplifier was installed, even the analog channels on my TV now look as good as I've ever seen analog TV look.


----------



## RJB in Phila




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Yung_
> *I'm just wondering what settings (brightness, color, contrast, etc.) most people are using in Standard, Pro & Movie mode?
> 
> 
> Also what about Neutral vs. Warm?
> 
> 
> I have only tweaked in a bit in Pro mode, changing brightness up to 35 and contrast up to about 34.*



On Pro, I used Avia to adjust the Picture to 42, Brightness to 35, and Sharpness to 18. My room has light from windows, so this setting may be too bright for others. I wasn't sure using Avia if my Picture setting was too high, but the directions didn't seem to apply to this TV based on what I was seeing on the screen.


Any one else have opinions on their settings?


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by tennberg_
> *Never The Same Color :-D hehe
> 
> 
> Actually, it's National Television System Committee.*



Technically, it stands for the National Television Standards Committee. This is a minor but important distinction ("standards" vs "systems"). The NTSC was established to set the TV standards of the day.


Mark


----------



## j_fo

Newbie here...so excuse the post if it's already been addressed elsewhere...or if I responded to another post by mistake.


I just got my XBR 960 on Thursday. I absolutely love it. I've never seen such a crystal clear picture, but then again, this is my first HDTV.


I've noticed a small bowing effect in the upper corners in SD broadcasts, but I can certainly live with it. No bowing in HD however. I plan to have it calibrated in about a month. Unfortunately my box did not contain a set of Sony documents...must have fallen out in transit. (I noticed a slight bend at the bottom of the crate as the delivery guys carried it into my house.) Therefore I have no instruction manual.


My question is related to the audio out from the TV to my receiver. I'm connecting my HDTivo via HDMI, and settop antenna in to TV (I'm having someone install a rooftop antenna next weekend so I can use the HDTivo's tuner for the locals. In the meantime I'm relying on the XBR's internal antenna, and maybe my crappy settop antenna to pick up the local digitals) and then relay the optical audio out from the TV to the receiver. However, I don't get any audio to the receiver when I flip the to Video 7 (HDTivo). The receiver will only pick up audio from the TV when viewing content from the XBR's internal tuner.


Need some help so I can get the HDTivo's audio to my receiver without having to run a separate optical out from the HDTivo to the receiver.


thanks.


----------



## paris_tn

For anybody wanting to look at the 960, front, back, sides, and turn it around as you want and look the tv over, here is a link.

http://www.jellylog.net/~cote/horsey.html 


Click on fullscreen and make the tv big. Just click with your mouse and hold down and turn the tv where you want it to be.


----------



## Chris Satterlee




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by j_fo_
> *Unfortunately my box did not contain a set of Sony documents...must have fallen out in transit. (I noticed a slight bend at the bottom of the crate as the delivery guys carried it into my house.) Therefore I have no instruction manual.*



The instruction manual can be downloaded from Sony:

http://www.sonystyle.com/intershopro...KD34XBR960.pdf 


I just finished going through this whole thread, and I do remember someone mentioning audio problems with the HDMI. Can't remember the details though.


- Chris


----------



## j_fo

Thanks for the link, Chris. I downloaded it and went through it. Unfortunately there is nothing there to address my issue. I'v already attempted changing the audio settings (set Speaker to "off" and Audio Out to "Fixed" or "Variable"). But nothing seems to work. I'll check the HDTivo user forum to see if I can find a setting change or work around.

thanks again.


----------



## Chris Satterlee




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by j_fo_
> *Thanks for the link, Chris. I downloaded it and went through it. Unfortunately there is nothing there to address my issue. I'v already attempted changing the audio settings (set Speaker to "off" and Audio Out to "Fixed" or "Variable"). But nothing seems to work. I'll check the HDTivo user forum to see if I can find a setting change or work around.
> 
> thanks again.*



I think you missed my last comment that there has been a discussion in this thread about a problem with the audio on the HDMI input. Here's one post:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...mi#post4152357 


This thread is so long that it's hard to go back and find a comment that someone made unless you can remember enough to perform a search. I found that post by searching for "HDMI".


Apart from that, I'm not going to be much help. I'm still trying to decide whether to buy a 960 or not.


- Chris


----------



## Phantastica

Here's an update to the issues I've been having with the geometry and dark spots on this screen.


The main Sony service technician for Los Angeles came by and made a few adjustments, which didn't really make any noticeable differences. He was completely not interested in re-doing the magnets to fix the bowing. He said that it was within factory specification, even though there was very obvious bowing along the outer 3-4 inches of the screen. He said that this tv wasn't designed for people like me, but rather for old people that wouldn't notice or care about geometry. I told him that I knew a tube wasn't going to be able to deliver perfect geometry, but that it seemed like there was a lot of room for improvement on this tv. He said that there wasn't, and that's why they stopped making the 40 inch tube. The geometry was awful, the colour purity was awful, and there wasn't anything the service guys could do to help it.


Anyways, the conclusion is that I'll just accept the geometry and dark patches the way that they are and perhaps go for a completely digital plasma/lcd/led set down the road. I definitely enjoy viewing and using this set, I'm probably just expecting too much out of it though.


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

What repair place did you use in la? I used "smith and larsen" based in Van Nuys. He said pretty much the same thing. If I have the geo problem on my next set (36xbr955) I will try to get sony to send a tech from the sony department, NOT from a 3rd party repair place who knows ****. The geometry IS corrected without moving any magnets inside the tv set. The repair person would have to bring their own specialized magnet and de-magnitize the bad area...


----------



## Phantastica

It was the main Sony guy for the area, not a 3rd party technician. He said he was recently at the factory in Taiwan (or wherever it is) and he seems like he's been around for a while. He did, however, try to convince me that this set was 1080p. I said that it was obviously interlaced, because you could clearly see small lines (especially from a computer flickering). He said that despite what the specs said, these sets were all progressive.


----------



## Yung

Sorry for the stupid question, but the XBR960 is my first experience with HDTV. I was watching ABC DT on 7.1 and when in full mode, there is still black bars on either side. I know that ABC broadcast in 720p instead of 1080i, so will all 720p programming have black bars on the side in full mode on the XBR960?


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

The only programming on HDTV channels that is widescreen is HDTV programming. The channel that is broadcasting may be broadcasting digitaly (like 7.1), but most shows is SD, not hdtv- so you will get the black bars. Unless you use a satelite provider like VOOM or watch hdtv PBS (24 hrs hdtv), the ONLy HDTV is usually available between the hours of 8pm-11pm and that is with only a few shows then you will have widescreen. IMO, 16:9 sets are great, but if you watch alot of cable shows (most still in sd), 4:3 sets still rule the day. Maybe in 3-5 years 16:9 sets will be worthy...


----------



## foxfan

I was checking out CC's website and they are announcing a 10% off all TVs sale. It looked interesting until I saw the small-print. Why is Sony XBR listed as an exclusion??? I don't want to pay more than $2200 for the TV and matching stand.


Does anyone remember what month it was when Sony started giving the free stand for the 910 last year?


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Yung_
> *Sorry for the stupid question, but the XBR960 is my first experience with HDTV. I was watching ABC DT on 7.1 and when in full mode, there is still black bars on either side. I know that ABC broadcast in 720p instead of 1080i, so will all 720p programming have black bars on the side in full mode on the XBR960?*



As far as I understand it to be, material in both 720p and 1080i will display in 16:9 format. It could be that you were watching a show that ABC was not broadcasting in HD.


For example, I was watching NBC HD here in Boston last night (channel 807) and their broadcast of NASCAR (I mean, really, was there really NOTHING ELSE to show...) was shown in 4:3 format, even though I was on their HD channel.


As another example, I was watching CBS HD (804) and right before Cold Case came on, their broadcast was in 4:3 format. Once Cold Case came on, the broadcast switched to 16:9.


For now, this will be the norm, I think. We will still see these black bars until every show, every commercial, etc. is broadcast in 16:9 format.


Feel free to correct me if I am wrong about this.


----------



## Yung




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by tennberg_
> *As far as I understand it to be, material in both 720p and 1080i will display in 16:9 format. It could be that you were watching a show that ABC was not broadcasting in HD.
> 
> 
> For example, I was watching NBC HD here in Boston last night (channel 807) and their broadcast of NASCAR (I mean, really, was there really NOTHING ELSE to show...) was shown in 4:3 format, even though I was on their HD channel.
> 
> 
> As another example, I was watching CBS HD (804) and right before Cold Case came on, their broadcast was in 4:3 format. Once Cold Case came on, the broadcast switched to 16:9.
> 
> 
> For now, this will be the norm, I think. We will still see these black bars until every show, every commercial, etc. is broadcast in 16:9 format.
> 
> 
> Feel free to correct me if I am wrong about this.*



Thanks, now I am beginning to understand more. The thing with the ABC DT channel was when I clicked on Display on the remote it showed 720p. I saw some of that NASCAR race too...just flipping channels. : )

The picture was real sharp though.


----------



## TennBikeBerk

When you go to display on the remote, and it says 1080i 16:9 or something like that, what does that mean precisely? Does that mean that is what the station normally broadcasts in? I don't think it is describing the current content, because it says 16:9 when you are watching a commercial with bars.


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Yung_
> *Thanks, now I am beginning to understand more. The thing with the ABC DT channel was when I clicked on Display on the remote it showed 720p. I saw some of that NASCAR race too...just flipping channels. : )
> 
> The picture was real sharp though.*



Yung: I can only get my TV to display 720p in its on-screen display if I set the cable box's output on YPbPr to 720p. It is currently set to 1080i so that all HD channels will be in 1080i format on the TV.


Another example: The Jerry Lewis Telethon is on our ABC HD channel right now in Boston. The TV display says 1080i 16:9 but there are black bars on the left and right. Basically the HD channel is mirroring the analog ABC channel, so even though it's an HD channel and the TV will recognize it as 1080i 16:9, there are still black bars on it unless ABC does a simulcast in HD 16:9.



> Quote:
> _Originally posted by TennBikeBerk_
> *When you go to display on the remote, and it says 1080i 16:9 or something like that, what does that mean precisely? Does that mean that is what the station normally broadcasts in? I don't think it is describing the current content, because it says 16:9 when you are watching a commercial with bars.*



TennBikeBerk: Above should somewhat explain this. When I am on an HD channel, it will stamp everything coming in as 1080i 16:9 since my TV and cable box are set up that way. However, not every show/commercial on an HD channel will be sent out as 1080i 16:9. So, that's why some local commercials (e.g. Bob's Discount Furniture Store) or certain national commercials (e.g. Toyota) will show with black bars on the sides. Even some of the PGA U.S. Open is pillared.


----------



## billmail1

A few posts back I had mentioned my disappointment with my new 960 because of geometry problems when watching 4:3 SD. Both sides bowed outwards at the top and bottom. It was very frustrating because I knew it was there but if we weren't somewhat fanatical about our video displays, we probably would not be reading this forum.


Anyway, I have a hardcopy of the Sony 960 Service Manual and went to page 21 where it shows illustrations of various picture distortions and how to correct them in the Service Menu. I've been in the SM before with my 910 so I wasn't hestitant about trying it. I followed the instructions, went to registers CXA2170D-2 Item 7 for the top left and right bowing and Item 8 for the bottom left right bowing. After changing each item....VOILA!!!! I now have perfectly straight and parallel left and right sides. Absolutely amazing how changing a few numbers can have such a dramatic affect on picture geometry. Needless to say, I'm MUCH happier with my set now. I don't intend to do anything else at this point because the picture looks, to quote my wife, "AMAZING"!!


WORD OF CAUTION: If you have never been in the Service Menu or are unsure of what you are doing - leave it alone. If the geometry problems really bother you, call an ISF technician to do it for you.


My wife and I are watching Harry Potter on our VOOM satellite and the HD picture is absolutely stunning!!!! This HD stuff can really be addictive. Even my 910 never looked this good. I'm impressed - at least for now.


----------



## Yung

Well, I was able to see the 34XBR960 side by side with the 34XBR910 today at a store and there was a noticeable better picture on the XBR960. Naturally they had the XBR960 on Vivid and the 910 on standard, but I adjusted the XBR960 to standard as well and took the Picture setting from 47 down to about 35 and I can still notice the XBR960 picture was better. I don't know if they had different feeds, but they were displaying the same program.


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by billmail1_
> *A few posts back I had mentioned my disappointment with my new 960 because of geometry problems when watching 4:3 SD. Both sides bowed outwards at the top and bottom. It was very frustrating because I knew it was there but if we weren't somewhat fanatical about our video displays, we probably would not be reading this forum.
> 
> 
> Anyway, I have a hardcopy of the Sony 960 Service Manual and went to page 21 where it shows illustrations of various picture distortions and how to correct them in the Service Menu. I've been in the SM before with my 910 so I wasn't hestitant about trying it. I followed the instructions, went to registers CXA2170D-2 Item 7 for the top left and right bowing and Item 8 for the bottom left right bowing. After changing each item....VOILA!!!! I now have perfectly straight and parallel left and right sides. Absolutely amazing how changing a few numbers can have such a dramatic affect on picture geometry. Needless to say, I'm MUCH happier with my set now. I don't intend to do anything else at this point because the picture looks, to quote my wife, "AMAZING"!!
> 
> 
> WORD OF CAUTION: If you have never been in the Service Menu or are unsure of what you are doing - leave it alone. If the geometry problems really bother you, call an ISF technician to do it for you.
> 
> 
> My wife and I are watching Harry Potter on our VOOM satellite and the HD picture is absolutely stunning!!!! This HD stuff can really be addictive. Even my 910 never looked this good. I'm impressed - at least for now.*




Where can you get a hold of the 960 service manual? I have an ISF calibration on Oct. 1 and there are some *minor* geometry probelsm on the TV. The left black bar on SD material is at an angle from top to bottom, the two bars don't seem they're of even width, etc. I am also wondering if there is a minor tilt adjustment in the service menu. Basically, using the on-screen tilt correction, a good tilt correction would be something like -4.25, but since the tilt only works in whole numbers, this isn't possible. There is also some slight bowing across the entire top and bottom of the screens.


It would be nice to have such a manual on-hand when the ISF tech is here as this is going to be his first 960 calibration. He said he has done 20+ 910s, but I am sure Sony added even more options in the 960 service menu.


Thanks!


----------



## Steve Barr

Hello,


My first post here; I hope it does not go astray.


I'm very interested in the 960 as a replacement for my ancient TV.


Has anyone successfully eliminated overscan from their 960? I only watch DVDs on my TV, and want whatever replacement I get to have zero overscan, even if it means underscan or compromising the PQ.


Thanks,


Steve


----------



## billmail1

I called Sony Customer Service about 6 weeks ago and ordered it. I believe the price was about $35-$39 plus shipping. The manual contains all of the factory default settings for RF, 480i, 480p, 720p and 1080i by input (RF, Video 5, Video 6, HDMI) and Picture Mode (Vivid, Standard, Movie and Pro). Hopefully, your ISF tech will have a copy with him.


Again, as a general precautionary note, the manual is a great tool for personnel who are knowledgable working in the Service Menu. Great pain and suffering await those who tread in unfamiliar territory.


Hope this helps!


----------



## tennberg

billmail1:


I will send an e-mail to the ISF tech who is coming to work on my 34XBR960 to see if he has the service manual for it. It sounds like there are more geometry controls in the 960 than were in the 910.


I've attached a .gif that details the current geometry of my 960. Pardon the artistic skills, I only have Microsoft Paint 


When watching 16:9 formatted material, I don't notice any distortion in geometry. However, if I bring up the on-screen display of the 960, from left to right, horizontal lines are not prefectly straight. At the top of the screen, there is slight downward bowing at the edges of the screen. At the bottom of the screen, there is slight upward bowing at the edges of the screen. Is this something that can be fixed in the service menu?


When watching 4:3 formatted material, the black bars on the left and right are of uneven widths. The bar on the right ever so slightly angles in to the left going from top to bottom. The bar on the left angles in more than the right bar, but this time to the right going from top to bottom.


Also, the tilt on 4:3 and 16:9 material is off by maybe a quarter of a degree or less. I notice this with material at the bottom of the screen on ESPN or even the Comcast channel guide. If I were able to adjust tilt in the on-screen guide by fractions, it would be perfect.


Can all of these be fixed or greatly lessened simply through the service menu? The ISF technician doesn't use magnets, so that is out of the question. If these problems could be fixed, I'd fall in love with this set even more.


----------



## billmail1

Tennberg, I too did not notice any geometry distortion when in 16:9 mode. They only became noticeable when watching 4:3 SD. That is when the black bars and slanted lines on the left and right sides became very obvious.

____________________________________________________________

When watching 16:9 formatted material, I don't notice any distortion in geometry. However, if I bring up the on-screen display of the 960, from left to right, horizontal lines are not prefectly straight. At the top of the screen, there is slight downward bowing at the edges of the screen. At the bottom of the screen, there is slight upward bowing at the edges of the screen. Is this something that can be fixed in the service menu?

____________________________________________________________


I haven't seen anything in the Service Manual that addresses horizontal bowing. There is some mention of using the VPIN register to straighten horizontal lines but I've never tried it. If there is a way, I'm sure your ISF tech will be able to do it.

____________________________________________________________

When watching 4:3 formatted material, the black bars on the left and right are of uneven widths. The bar on the right ever so slightly angles in to the left going from top to bottom. The bar on the left angles in more than the right bar, but this time to the right going from top to bottom.

____________________________________________________________


There is an illustration of this exact problem on page 21 of the manual. Register CXA2170D-2 Item 14 PPHA (Pin Phase) looks like it will adjust those left and right side angles. The good thing about this Service Manual is that it has illustrations of many different picture distortion problems (like the ones you described) and then identifies which registers and items to adjust for correction.


I agree that it might be a good idea to call your ISF tech in advance to explain the types of problems that you would like him to adjust and to also ask him if he has the Service Manual.


I can almost guarantee that, if you like your 960 now, you will absolutely love it after the ISF calibration. I've had two calibrations on my 910 and it made dramatic improvements to the Picture Quality. I too will have my 960 calibrated. It's a small price to pay for proper geometry, convergence, color temp and color balance (and a whole bunch of other "magical" things that they can do).


Please give us your post-calibration impressions.


----------



## billmail1

Tennberg,


My ISF tech also would not use any type of magnets or go into the back of the set. I don't believe that is a normal part of any ISF Caibration. But in my case it really wasn't necessary. He couldn't make everything perfect. After all, it is a CRT tube and perfection is impossible but he definitely made any remaining imperfections much less noticeable. The PQ was so great that I stopped looking for problems and just sat back and enjoyed the picture.


----------



## tennberg

billmail1:


Basically, I would love to get the ISF tech to make it so that any horizontal lines are basically horizontal and any vertical lines are vertical. I would also love to have him fix the black bar issue on 4:3 material, and slightly correct the tilt (in addition to all color, color temp, etc.).


It sounds like all of this is possible in the service menu as long as you know what values to set.


----------



## BTV Mark

====================================================


Apparently, I started a new thread elsewhere--but this question belongs here. Sorry about the duplication!--Mark


====================================================


I've had my '960 for about 6 weeks. Great set, and I love it. I didn't feel it needed any additional calibration or adjustments.


However, a week ago, I noticed some minor registration errors during an ABC Monday Night Football game. (Reds had drifted out in the upper-left.) At first, I thought it was their camera, but I also saw the error on some other programming. Then I put in a test disk, and sure enough, my set has slowly drifted out of registration. I called my dealer (ABT in suburban Chicago) and they have a tech. coming out next week. The service writer said this call will be covered under warranty. But he also didn't seem to have a clue what I was talking about when I said "convergence errors" or "out of registration." I wonder if they will change their mind about covering this under warranty when they realize what I'm complaining about. Anyone have experience with this issue--especially with this dealer?


I have read this thread for a few months, and it seems everyone agrees to wait about 100 hours before having the set aligned. I'm probably at that amount already. Anyone else notice the set drifting out of registration? I'm pretty sure it wasn't like that originally, although I'll admit I'm getting used to the excellent picture--and therefore becoming more critical!


Mark


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

Why is the Circuit City website stop selling xbr960? I cant find it on their website...



Things that make you go HMMMMMM...........


----------



## Phantastica




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Steve Barr_
> *Hello,
> 
> 
> My first post here; I hope it does not go astray.
> 
> 
> I'm very interested in the 960 as a replacement for my ancient TV.
> 
> 
> Has anyone successfully eliminated overscan from their 960? I only watch DVDs on my TV, and want whatever replacement I get to have zero overscan, even if it means underscan or compromising the PQ.
> 
> *



You'll be able to adjust the vertical and horizontal sizes through the service menu, eliminating any overscan. It's a very easy change to make. Just keep in mind that the more you pull in those outer edges, the more you'll be getting into the area that CRT's have a hard time with. It's almost guaranteed that you're going to start seeing heavier geometry distortion and convergence issues along the edges of your screen if you adjust it to a point that eliminates all overscan.


----------



## juandixon




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by JamisonBWolsh_
> *Why is the Circuit City website stop selling xbr960? I cant find it on their website...
> 
> 
> 
> Things that make you go HMMMMMM...........*



I would assume they are out of stock. And really they don't need the online website to sell the sets when their retail stores are probably gobbling up all the stock. The xbr was one of the few tvs that CC excluded from their 10% discount. WHY? because ppl will still buy the set regardless of the discount so it behooves CC to get as much as they can from it.


----------



## Yung




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by JamisonBWolsh_
> *Why is the Circuit City website stop selling xbr960? I cant find it on their website...
> 
> 
> 
> Things that make you go HMMMMMM...........*



It should also be noted that Circuit City has updated their website recently so maybe they haven't linked up everything yet. The units are in the retail stores.


----------



## ghostrider1

Anyone still getting the pops?


I got them for the first time this weekend. When I switched to my dvd player it stopped. Because of this I think it is possible it is coming from my cable. Any one has a solution to this problem.


Thanks


----------



## tennberg

billmail1:


Does the 960 sevice meny have options for adjusting "horizontal pincushion"? The above problem I described with 16:9 on-screen displays can only be fixed with a horizontal pincushion adjustment, according to the ISF tech. He said the 910 did not have this option. I am hoping that the 960 has this option since it's newer and better and faster.


He also said he does not need the service manual, so either he is the smartest man on the face of the earth or just doesn't want to bother.


----------



## billmail1

Tennberg,


I've been looking through the Service Manual for the last 30 minutes and couldn't find anything that specifically addresses horizontal pincushioning. For example, on page 21, all of the illustrations show vertical error corrections while page 15 addresses dynamic convergence adjustments (however they are all verticle convergence corrections). On page 21, paragraph 2-9.1, sub-paragraph 4 states: " Complete V-PIN and V-CEN adjustments first and adjust HPTZ to straighten and parallel top and bottom lines". I'm not exactly sure what that means and, believe me, if I don't understand the instructions, I do not make the adjustment. That is the only reference to horizontal line corrections that I can find.


I wouldn't worry about you ISF tech not having a copy of the Service Manual. Since all ISF technicians are trained and certified to meet ISF technical standards, I would assume that they all have a good working knowledge of most, if not all, Service Menus. I know when my calibrator came out the first time he did not have the manual and did a great job. Unfortunately, my TV fried a circuit board a few weeks later which needed to be replaced by a Sony tech. Naturally, the Sony "tech" (and I'm being kind by calling him only that name) replaced the board, turned the TV on to make sure there was a picture and then left. I don't know which board he replaced but all of my calibrations adjustments were gone. Fortunately, I called my ISF tech and he came back about 1 month later and recalibrated the set while only charging me a "touch up" fee even though he had to start from "scratch". When he was done, again the the picture was stunning. I have the same hopes for this TV although I have to admit, this 960 beats the crap out of the 910 "out of the box". I'm sure the ISF calibration will only make it that much better.


Don't worry about him not having the Service Manual. He should be able to correct almost all of your problems through the service menu.


Please post your comments after the calibration is completed. I'm really anxious to hear your opinions.


Bill


----------



## TennBikeBerk

What is this "service menu"? Do you need to plug something into the firewire port in the back of the tv makred "service only" or something to that effect? Or are you just discussing the normal menu that you get when you press the "menu" button the remote?


----------



## Phantastica




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by ghostrider1_
> *Anyone still getting the pops?
> 
> 
> I got them for the first time this weekend. When I switched to my dvd player it stopped. Because of this I think it is possible it is coming from my cable. Any one has a solution to this problem.
> 
> 
> Thanks*



Which pops? The ones where the screen silently convulses, warps, and dims in a fraction of a second?


I get those, regardless of the source. Once every few hours usually.


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by billmail1_
> *Tennberg,
> 
> 
> I've been looking through the Service Manual for the last 30 minutes and couldn't find anything that specifically addresses horizontal pincushioning. For example, on page 21, all of the illustrations show vertical error corrections while page 15 addresses dynamic convergence adjustments (however they are all verticle convergence corrections). On page 21, paragraph 2-9.1, sub-paragraph 4 states: " Complete V-PIN and V-CEN adjustments first and adjust HPTZ to straighten and parallel top and bottom lines". I'm not exactly sure what that means and, believe me, if I don't understand the instructions, I do not make the adjustment. That is the only reference to horizontal line corrections that I can find.
> 
> 
> I wouldn't worry about you ISF tech not having a copy of the Service Manual. Since all ISF technicians are trained and certified to meet ISF technical standards, I would assume that they all have a good working knowledge of most, if not all, Service Menus. I know when my calibrator came out the first time he did not have the manual and did a great job. Unfortunately, my TV fried a circuit board a few weeks later which needed to be replaced by a Sony tech. Naturally, the Sony "tech" (and I'm being kind by calling him only that name) replaced the board, turned the TV on to make sure there was a picture and then left. I don't know which board he replaced but all of my calibrations adjustments were gone. Fortunately, I called my ISF tech and he came back about 1 month later and recalibrated the set while only charging me a "touch up" fee even though he had to start from "scratch". When he was done, again the the picture was stunning. I have the same hopes for this TV although I have to admit, this 960 beats the crap out of the 910 "out of the box". I'm sure the ISF calibration will only make it that much better.
> 
> 
> Don't worry about him not having the Service Manual. He should be able to correct almost all of your problems through the service menu.
> 
> 
> Please post your comments after the calibration is completed. I'm really anxious to hear your opinions.
> 
> 
> Bill*



Thanks, Bill, for all your help.


I'm deciding whether or not to mention that HPTZ setting to him or not. I don't want to come off as knowing more than him and telling him how to do his job (though I am the one shelling out $300...).


Nevertheless, Comcast is coming out this Friday to check my cable strength (INHD and INHD2 have been pixelating quite a bit), I am trading in my Denon DVD-910 for a 1910 next week (480p 16:9 incompatibility with my 960), and Jim Doolittle is coming on Oct. 1 to do the ISF calibration. What a month


----------



## billmail1

I wouldn't worry about coming on as "knowing too much" if you mention the HPTZ adjustment. IMO it will just let him know that you know something about PQ and value his expertise to make it even better. Just don't come on too strong. Be tactful and professional and he will be more than willing to listen and discuss your expectations. My calibrator was extremely pleased to have a conversation with someone who knew what he was doing. A good calibrator has nothing to hide and should be willing to gladly discuss his science with knowledgable customers. The more you know about what he is doing, the more likely you are of being pleased with the improvements that he just made to your set. My calibrator was very methodical in explaining each step of the process, how and why he was making the adjustments and making sure that I was satisfied with the results. Like any craftsman, he is happy when his customer is happy.


I too have Comcast and INHD and INHD2 are my favority channels. In fact, if Comcast did not carry those channels I would seriously consider dropping their service.


So your getting a new DVD player and a calibration. You should feel like Christmas is coming early this year.


Again, I would really be interested in your opinion of the calibration results especially since I can't get my 960 done until November at the earliest.


Bill


----------



## soimcrazy




> Quote:
> would assume they are out of stock. And really they don't need the online website to sell the sets when their retail stores are probably gobbling up all the stock. The xbr was one of the few tvs that CC excluded from their 10% discount. WHY? because ppl will still buy the set regardless of the discount so it behooves CC to get as much as they can from it.




I bought a coupon off Ebay. It was for 10% off any TV over...$100 I think it was. It did exclude closeouts/discounted TVs. The coupon didnt say anything about XBR !!


I took the coupon to Circuit City and saved $220 on my XBR960.


I live about 25 miles south of Richmond in Virginia.

I did a search for that TV to see where one was located, because my local CC didnt have it. There was one store in Richmond that had it...very very old store too.

The only other stores in VA it listed was near DC...about 100 miles away.

Strange that its limited around here.


----------



## snclawson




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by JamisonBWolsh_
> *Why is the Circuit City website stop selling xbr960? I cant find it on their website...
> 
> 
> 
> Things that make you go HMMMMMM...........*



Yes, Hmm... Like...Hmm...when will JBW start posting useful things instead of his constant whining barrage? Really. It's not like most of us here haven't already accepted the fact that Sony is having quality problems with the XBR960. Hell, I'm on my second one and it's got both the `pops' and the bad tuner. I also had some yahoo come out to try and fix it (third party TV repair guy...there aren't any Sony techs in Utah) who didn't do a damned thing. The second repair guy is comming out on Friday. Sony of course claimes to never have heard of the tuner problem. =( It's a real drag, but your constant posts don't help and just add noise to the discussion.


In any case, please go and hassle Sony about your unresolved issues, instead of bugging the rest of us with your TV insecurity.


----------



## snclawson




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Phantastica_
> *Which pops? The ones where the screen silently convulses, warps, and dims in a fraction of a second?
> 
> 
> I get those, regardless of the source. Once every few hours usually.*



I get those too; source dosen't matter. They started happening maybe a week or two after I got the set and have been increasing in frequency ever since. Originally it was just every couple hours, but sometimes they happen every couple minutes now!


The second repair guy is comming on Friday to take a look at the set. The first one took the back off, pulled the circuit board off the back of the tube...put aluminum foil on the end of it and then connected it though his multimeter to case ground and turned on the TV for a couple minutes. Needless to say, his `little trick' didn't do anything to help fix the problem... I called Sony back afterwards and told them I'd like to have a different repair company come out and look at it (since there are no Sony repair techs here in Salt Lake, they contract out to third party repair places).


As a side note (maybe it's a coincidence), my TV also has the `tuner problem.' How about everyone else who's got the `pops'?


----------



## tennberg

With all the issues others have had out there, I do consider myself lucky that the set I got has performed wonderfully so far. I have had no "pops" coming from the set, the geometry seems to be really great, etc. I am not sure about the built-in tuner however, as I use a Comcast cable box.


The set I have was built in Aug. 2004 with a serial number 8005xxx.


I am not sure if Sony has a real quality control issue with these sets or if those with problems have simply been more vocal than those who have had no issues.


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by billmail1_
> *I wouldn't worry about coming on as "knowing too much" if you mention the HPTZ adjustment. IMO it will just let him know that you know something about PQ and value his expertise to make it even better. Just don't come on too strong. Be tactful and professional and he will be more than willing to listen and discuss your expectations. My calibrator was extremely pleased to have a conversation with someone who knew what he was doing. A good calibrator has nothing to hide and should be willing to gladly discuss his science with knowledgable customers. The more you know about what he is doing, the more likely you are of being pleased with the improvements that he just made to your set. My calibrator was very methodical in explaining each step of the process, how and why he was making the adjustments and making sure that I was satisfied with the results. Like any craftsman, he is happy when his customer is happy.
> 
> 
> I too have Comcast and INHD and INHD2 are my favority channels. In fact, if Comcast did not carry those channels I would seriously consider dropping their service.
> 
> 
> So your getting a new DVD player and a calibration. You should feel like Christmas is coming early this year.
> 
> 
> Again, I would really be interested in your opinion of the calibration results especially since I can't get my 960 done until November at the earliest.
> 
> 
> Bill*



Thanks again. I will defintely keep you posted on post-ISF calibration status.


As for the HPTZ adjustment, does the 910 service manual mention this option at all, or is it new to the 960?


----------



## billmail1

I don't have the 910 Service Manual anymore so I can't say for certain if it was in there or not but the letters sound familiar and I've seen them before so there is a good chance that it is not new to the 960.


Bill


----------



## MichaelDaly




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Phantastica_
> *Which pops? The ones where the screen silently convulses, warps, and dims in a fraction of a second?
> 
> 
> I get those, regardless of the source. Once every few hours usually.*



I have had my 960 for about 6 weeks. This past weekend I was getting "the pops" when I turned the set on with it connected to my TiVo. when I switched the input source to tuner, I was still getting the pops but they lessened and then went away. I didn't get them again until Tuesday. I have been "pop-free" since Tuesday. I put in a service request via Sony's website and am still waiting for a response.


I have not had the tuner problems that I've seent people mention and my geometry is probably 95%. It's not perfect but according to the service guy "it's better than most."


Please keep us up to date if you get yours successfully fixed.


----------



## ghostrider1

HDTVFanAtic,


I don't know if I missed it, but did you talk about the pops on the 960?


Do you have this problem? Do you know of a solution?


Thanks!!!


----------



## snclawson

Well, the TV repair guy showed up this morning. I was able to show him the `tuner problem', since I'd left the TV off all night, but the TV stubbornly refused to `pop' while he was there. I guess that's the problem when you've got two issues that manifest themselves in completely different ways (TV's off for a while, or TV's on for a while...).


Anyway, the end result is that he did a factory reset (from the remote) on the TV and is ordering a new tuner and will be installing it whenever it shows up (in a week or so). He did say that the `poping' problem could be the tube arcing, which would mean that it would need to be replaced. In any case, the next time he comes out I'll have the TV on all morning to make sure that it will happen while he's there. I'm really not looking forward to having them replace the tube though. =(


----------



## 1212patatepoil




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Phantastica_
> *Anyways, the conclusion is that I'll just accept the geometry and dark patches the way that they are and perhaps go for a completely digital plasma/lcd/led set down the road. I definitely enjoy viewing and using this set, I'm probably just expecting too much out of it though.*



I just got an XBR910 (don't ask, I live in Canada) and had somewhat similar issues out of the box.


I had darker/bluer patches in the corners when displaying white or near white full screen. A quick landing adjustment (in the service menu) fixed that. (Thank god we had a similar issue on Sony computer monitors at work, otherwise I would never have figured that one out.)


The parameters you need to adjust to fix dark patches in the corners are:


LANDING - LT (left top), RT (right top), RB (right bottom), LB (left bottom).


As for geometry, you can improve it (and screw it up) quite a bit with all the geometry adjustments in the service menu. Don't expect anything perfect, though...


For more information on this, visit the XBR910 service menu thread on this board, it is quite informative.


As usual, all the disclaimers apply: YOU CAN SCREW UP YOUR SET IF YOU ARE CARELESS IN THE SERVICE MENU. IF YOU DON'T KNOW HOW TO PROGRAM YOUR VCR -- LEAVE THIS TO AN EXPERIENCED TECHNICIAN. JOT DOWN ORIGINAL SERVICE MENU VALUES **BEFORE** YOU CHANGE THEM... yada yada yada...


-- Patate


----------



## Acksull




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by 1212patatepoil_
> 
> 
> As usual, all the disclaimers apply: YOU CAN SCREW UP YOUR SET IF YOU ARE CARELESS IN THE SERVICE MENU. IF YOU DON'T KNOW HOW TO PROGRAM YOUR VCR -- LEAVE THIS TO AN EXPERIENCED TECHNICIAN. JOT DOWN ORIGINAL SERVICE MENU VALUES **BEFORE** YOU CHANGE THEM... yada yada yada...
> 
> 
> -- Patate



I notice alot of people say this when dealing with the service menu. Even if someone screws something up in it, can't they just use the "Restore To Factory Defaults" option?


----------



## Chris Satterlee




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Acksull_
> *I notice alot of people say this when dealing with the service menu. Even if someone screws something up in it, can't they just use the "Restore To Factory Defaults" option?*



Supposedly you can actually physically damage the TV if you do the wrong thing.


- Chris


----------



## tennberg

Are Video 5 and Video 6 (the two HD inputs) on the 960 able to maintain separate color settings through the on-screen menu? My cable box is plugged into Video 5 and my DVD player is plugged into Video 6. Both are going to be ISF calibrated, and I wanted to make sure that they could be calibrated separately.


Thanks.


----------



## 1212patatepoil




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Acksull_
> *I notice alot of people say this when dealing with the service menu. Even if someone screws something up in it, can't they just use the "Restore To Factory Defaults" option?*



I think this "disclaimer" comes from the fact that the service menu is NOT user friendly, and you should be more careful than usual when your are using it.


I understand that "restore factory defaults" will indeed reset everything, but probably will NOT reset the TV exactly the way it was when it was delivered to you.


Apparently, some tweaking is done on an individual basis for every set.


Plus, if you DID tweak stuff on your own already, having to reset EVERYTHING just because you mucked up a single setting can be really painful.


I know that I don't want to do a factory reset now, after all the work I put into my set.


As for physical damage, I would say it is quite unlikely. Unless you act like a complete fool and start playing with parameters at random, it should be fine. Just stick with parameters that are well documented on this site (or others...).


-- Patate


----------



## triplex

I am having a issue with my tuner. After I do the auto channel programming I can press the channel + and channel - to surf all the channels. But then all of a sudden I lose most of the channels so when I press the + or minus it only cycles through a small number of channels. I can still get to a channel by pressing the number but can't get to that number using the channel + or -. Wonder if this mean I have a defective tuner?


----------



## triplex

I am wondering is anyone else has this issue. When I power on the TV I get a buzz sound. I am assuming this is from the TV deguassing. I have heard this same sound when powering up computer monitors. Anyway the issue is sometimes when I turn it on I don't get the buzz sound. I can turn the tv on and off until I am blue in the face and not get the buzz sound when powering it on. My question is does anyone get the buzz sound everytime they turn the set on?


----------



## smandel44

I need help people.


I just bought the kd-34xbr960 and had RCN in NYC hook me up with there motorola dct6208.

I have my motorola hooked via component cables to the tv.

My regular digital cabl channels look terrible, very fuzzy and very grainy.


I have no coaxial cable going from the dct to the tv cause I was told I don't need it at all, and I even tried to do that and it didnt't fix anything.


The guy at PC Richard told me to make another input just for the regular digital channels from the extra video out in the DCT but this doesnt let me use the guide then on that input. I guess you can't use the DCT guide when using 2 inputs on the DCT box.


I tried changing the 4:3 setting from 480p to 480i and even off, and nothing seems to help.


Do I need the coaxial cable from the DCt to the tv (cable input) at all?

Everyone talks about the great quality that this yv has and I can only get that great quality onb the HDTV , not on the regular channels which I use the most.


PLEASE HELP, I will have the RCN guy come on Sunday to check it out, I might return the tv if it doesnt get better.


Right now the DTV on my tv screen is worse then the DTV I had on my 20 year old set last year.



Steve


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by triplex_
> *I am wondering is anyone else has this issue. When I power on the TV I get a buzz sound. I am assuming this is from the TV degaussing. I have heard this same sound when powering up computer monitors. Anyway the issue is sometimes when I turn it on I don't get the buzz sound. I can turn the tv on and off until I am blue in the face and not get the buzz sound when powering it on. My question is does anyone get the buzz sound every time they turn the set on?*



Triplex, I don't think the 960 degausses each and every time. Try unplugging your set for a minute or two--I think it will then degauss every time. Or, try the service department at your dealer.


By the way, degaussing is only necessary when you see some color impurity on the screen. Manufacturers put that capability in their sets to avoid service calls. It's a benefit to the user, but does not need to be done as often as it is. So personally I wouldn't worry about it not degaussing every time--unless you think it's a malfunction in your unit.











Mark


----------



## andrewjnyc

I've had my 960 for about a month now with no real problems, but I just noticed something odd: when playing supposedly 16x9 Xbox games (Burnout 3, Rallisport Challenge 2, Panzer Dragoon Orta), the TV tells me the signal it's getting is a 480p signal in 4:3! The Xbox is set to "widescreen" in the dashboard video menu with all three HDTV modes enabled. When I play a 16x9-enhanced DVD on my DVD player, the TV identifies the signal as 480p 16x9, and it also identifies the Xbox dashboard as 16x9. And the only 720p game that I have (Freedom Fighters) is also identified as a 16x9 signal. But whenever I pop in a 480p widescreen game, pow!, it tells me I'm in 4:3. Anyone got a clue what could be causing this? Is it possible I'm actually seeing the game in 16x9 despite what the TV says (because the image sure doesn't look stretched), or am I actually getting a 4:3 image because of a setting I missed (either on the Xbox or the TV)? Thanks in advance for your help!


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

Andrew,


Just a quick question. Do you have the HDTV a/v pack? Without that pack, you cannot get hdtv quality 16:9 widescreen.....


----------



## andrewjnyc

The Xbox is connected through component video cables, so I guess that means I have the HDTV a/v pack, right? I don't think there's another product that lets you use component video with the Xbox.


----------



## doretta




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by smandel44_
> *
> 
> My regular digital cabl channels look terrible, very fuzzy and very grainy.
> *



Go into the diagnostics menu and check your signal strength. After I got my cablecard I was seeing the same kind of thing you describe. After Comcast installed an amplifier on my cable connection, all the channels suddenly looked great and have looked great ever since.


----------



## snclawson

I've got RC2 and Panzer Dragoon Orta; I've played RC2 on the 960 and it definetely supports 16:9, but I do seem to remember needing to manually stretch the screen when playing in 480p (haven't played Orta on the new TV). I'll check the display information for it when I get home.


The TV definetely detects the ID1/WSS signal from my Sony DVD player when it's in progressive mode. It's possible that the Xbox isn't sending out that signal in 480p. Or it's possible that the abrupt change from the dashboard in 480i to the game in 480p messes the TV up somehow? I found a post on an hdtvoice forum about someone with an Xbox and a kv-30hs420 that's having the same problem:

http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/archive/index.php/t-11359


----------



## andrewjnyc

Hey, thanks for the input snclawson...between your post and the one you linked to on the other board, I think I have a pretty decent understanding of what the issue is, though one point still confuses me: If I want to ensure that I'm seeing the proper 16x9 image, which widescreen setting should I use on the set? Zoom? Wide zoom? I've been using "full", which seems to be working OK, though I can't help wondering if the image is more cropped or distorted than I realize. Too bad the Xbox doesn't have a flashable BIOS to fix stuff like this...


----------



## mikeny

In the menu, set Screen Mode to 'full' default. That's the conventional proper dislpay that will fill your screen without shrinking or cropping when there's a 16:9 broadcast. However, 4:3 'hd' upconverted material will still appear as a slightly larger square in this setting but it's still considered "Full".


----------



## andrewjnyc

Forgive me for asking a ridiculously silly question, but you mean 'full' on the TV's menu, not the Xbox menu, correct? That's the setting I've been using. The picture looks fine enough, but I can't help worrying that the something is being cropped because the TV sees the signal as 4:3 when it's actually 16x9. If I get the overscan set right (which should happen during my ISF calibration this weekend) will that keep anything from being cropped out?


----------



## juandixon

okay i got my 960. I have adelphia basic analog cable.


I did the autochannel setup and said it found over like 200 DIGITAL channels which I never got before.


NOW when I scroll threw my channels I get like channel 99.65 or 101.23 which are various digital channels such as mtv2 or cbs hd which I never knew existed on my cable feed before.



MY QUESTION: Where can I see a channel lineup for those weird decimal digital channels? I tried titantv and its all whole number channels. Why am I seeing these weird channel numbers? thx


Also on some of the digital channels it tells me the resolution whether its 480i or 1080i etc. I think i was watching csi miami in HD, it looked good but not HD good not sure whats going on. anyways rambling.....


----------



## TKO

juandixon


Your cable provider is currently not encrypting some of the digital channels so the built in QAM tuner on the 960 is able to display them. For now this is a freebie but most cable providers are aware of this and are working on encrypting all channels.


As to the channel numbers, you will not find any channel mapping for them. The channel numbers are the internal channels used by the cable provider and are remapped to standard channel numbers by your digital receiver or cable card. I just took the time to create a channel listing of my own.


I'm a DirecTV subscriber and was also pleasantly surprised when my 960 was able to lock onto INHD 1/2, ESPN HD, Discovery HD, etc. from my cable provider.


----------



## mikeny




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by andrewjnyc_
> *Forgive me for asking a ridiculously silly question, but you mean 'full' on the TV's menu, not the Xbox menu, correct? That's the setting I've been using. The picture looks fine enough, but I can't help worrying that the something is being cropped because the TV sees the signal as 4:3 when it's actually 16x9. If I get the overscan set right (which should happen during my ISF calibration this weekend) will that keep anything from being cropped out?*



Yes, I meant the tv menu, ot the xbox menu. I don't know why the tv is displaying 4:3 if it's supposed to be 16:9. I don't have an xbox but I understand as you you probably are aware that not every game is 16:9. If the game is 16:9 and you feel that it's being cropped, then overscan correction should help.


Just curious, do you also get the feeling that 16:9 HD TV channels seem cropped in the Full Display mode?


----------



## juandixon




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by TKO_
> *juandixon
> 
> 
> Your cable provider is currently not encrypting some of the digital channels so the built in QAM tuner on the 960 is able to display them. For now this is a freebie but most cable providers are aware of this and are working on encrypting all channels.
> 
> 
> As to the channel numbers, you will not find any channel mapping for them. The channel numbers are the internal channels used by the cable provider and are remapped to standard channel numbers by your digital receiver or cable card. I just took the time to create a channel listing of my own.
> 
> 
> I'm a DirecTV subscriber and was also pleasantly surprised when my 960 was able to lock onto INHD 1/2, ESPN HD, Discovery HD, etc. from my cable provider.*



Ah IC, thanks for the great explanation.


----------



## Segaboy

Juandixon,


U got your 960??? When did you place your order with the Sony Family Store?


My order was placed on June 28th and then officially entered into their system on July 12th...Still freiken waiting!!!


----------



## juandixon




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Segaboy_
> *Juandixon,
> 
> 
> U got your 960??? When did you place your order with the Sony Family Store?
> 
> 
> My order was placed on June 28th and then officially entered into their system on July 12th...Still freiken waiting!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *



hey sega, i couldn't wait. i got a deal on the 910 stand for less than the sony family and i used a cc coupon for the 960 itself.


football season started, i am almost finish renovating my place and the tv was the cherry on top so I needed to have it. like a kid who couldn't wait till christmas to open his presents up. hehe. keep me updated on when u get urs, but I understand the line may be LONG.


----------



## Phantastica




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Segaboy_
> *Juandixon,
> 
> 
> U got your 960??? When did you place your order with the Sony Family Store?
> 
> 
> My order was placed on June 28th and then officially entered into their system on July 12th...Still freiken waiting!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *



This probably doesn't help much, but I placed my order at the Sony Family Store in Culver City on June 16th (before they were shipping) and I had my set in my living room in the first week of July. I suspect that I got in just before this set became a hot item. The same thing happened with the Grand Wega III's. They ended up being backordered for about 5 months.


----------



## Foolius

Just to add some more info on the Sony Family Store, I ordered mine from them last June as well and had to deal with two sets being damaged during transit before ever arriving to my house. Now I've been told that a third set was sent out yesterday. Once again, I have my fingers crossed.


----------



## jimg

The refurbs are starting to show up at the Sony outlets -- and they're good!!!

I picked one up at the Wrentham, MA Sony factory outlet.

Note: Call ahead, as there may not be any left.


--


Since it was a refurb, I opted for the 5 yr. warranty as well. (Technically it the extends the manufactuer's warranty from 2 to 5 years.)


Great customer service from an outlet store!

When I had inquired about the 34XBR960, I was told I could have the floor model (with free 5yr extended warranty), or if I could wait, there were 4 "in-transit". I asked to them to call me when they arrived. And indeed when they arrived, I was called.

Finally, I was able to have them un-box it so I could check it out. (After doing the auto-program, and picture adjustments, I realized just how good a set this is!)

Only issue with the outlet store was that I did have a little wait at the loading dock, as someone else was loading their just-purchased 34XBR960.


Bottom line:

Limited availability (and can't order!), but great price...

A few hundred off since it's a refurb, but can get the extended warranty.

Because it was a refurb, it was checked and somewhat "fine-tuned."

A few hundred off since they don't deliver. [ I considered this "sweat equity."]

Give the 34XBR960 a good quality signal, and it gives you a great picture and great sound.



Details:

----------


Did have to rent a pickup as the box is large: approx 52" long x 34" wide x 37" high.


The weight is just over 200 pounds, so bring a strong friend or two to help lug it into your house.


Because of the issues noted in this thread [THANKS early adopters!!], I called ahead and made arrangements to have it taken out of the box and set it up with off-air antenna in the store. (I did have to explained that the early production models had issues and I wanted to verify the tuner was ok and there were no geometry issues.)


The serial number is on the box was in the low 8000500s -- definately a cause for concern. But did have a refurbished date of August 18th, 2004 (can you "cautiously optimistic"?)


-----


Hands-on report:


Looks like the refurbing has fixed the tuner and geometry issues!!!


The auto-program went fine and only took a couple minutes to find all the local Boston channels (from a "VHF rabbit ears/ UHF loop" antenna) inside the store. (Note: approx. 25 miles from the towers; there are also a metal frame spotlight rack hanging from the ceiling, the antenna was on top of the TV which was sitting on the floor, and people were also in the store. ) Eventhough I had to adjust the antenna to get a solid lock on the weaker digital channels, I am impressed with how good the tuner is. (Compares favorably with the 4th generation tuner in my Integra 912.)


Great news: No geometry issues! (Yes, the gray bars were slightly off, but you really had to be looking for it [and I was!]. I stepped back 5 feet and didn't notice it.)


I tuned to PBS-HD (which was showing "Travels in Europe"), and had to make a few adjustments to go from "[showroom] Vivid" to the more natural "Pro" mode. A few tweaks to lower the sharpness and adjust the brightness, contrast, etc. and it looked great. (Other shoppers were impressed!)

I was initially thinking I would need an ISF calibration, but let's just say, that's on-hold for now.


The only issue I noticed with the picture was the somewhat expected color fringing on the left 15% of the picture. (The floor model also had similar issues.) Really not that bad, and I will correct it after it has a couple hundred hours of "aging". [Service manual already ordered!]


Coming from a previous generation HD Trinitron, the clarity of the 960's super-fine pitch is definately noticable -- you do get more of the 3D "pop" effect.


Picture quality of the analog channels was "poor" as others have noted, but when I set it up at home with a better OTA antenna, it improved to "good" -- same channels, same set, just better quality signal. (aka "Garbage In, Garbage Out".) Hmmmm...


Picture quality from a DVD source is excellent, as well as SD from a Big Dish.


Picture quality from an HD source (Dish 921 PVR or Big Dish HD), was just short of HD studio monitor quality. [But for 1/10th the price, I think I can live with it!]


Picture quality from the "Nature in Motion" DVHS from Wilderness Video really showed the "upgrade" from HD-Trinitron to Superfine HD Trinitron, and it soundtrack really showed-off the 34XPR960's subwoofer.


No cosmetic issues with the cabinet -- it was in perfect condition.


----------



## gigaguy

Yea I've been watching the 34xbr910 at the Outlets since they came out, but haven't been there lately to see any 960's. I'm still balking at the price since it's more than I've ever spent on a tv, plus the weight is an issue since I live with stairs. I'll have to go see if they have it, but it's 30 miles away.


----------



## BTV Mark

I've had my '960 since late July. It's a great set, and I've been very happy with it.


But I did notice a small amount of convergence error around three sides. In my opinion, this is not acceptable--I think the set has "burned in" a bit since it was new, and has drifted out of convergence.


So I called my retailer (ABT in Chicago), and asked for service on the set. The serviceman came on Friday. He looked at my set for about 5 seconds, and pronounced it within Sony specs. He stated--to my astonishment--that Sony calls for only 73% convergence accuracy around the corners. (Where did THAT spec. come from?) I asked him to tell me how that is determined, but he couldn't. He said the set was fine, but that he couldn't do that kind of adjustment in the field anyway. He stated it wouldn't be any better if they did take it in and align it. I told him I was not satisfied, and he should find out what the Service Manager would say about taking it in for warranty service. He said I'd get a call Monday or Tuesday.


So I'll keep everyone informed what they have to say. I guess that's why so many people have their sets professionally calibrated!


Mark


----------



## mikeny

This has probably been asked before and I did see some reference to cable and firewire to D-VHS but not satellite so here are 2 questions:


1. Has anyone tried to record to D-VHS with a Satellite Receiver configuration?


2. Is it possible to record HD this way using the firewire connection on the tv?


----------



## juandixon

does anyone know if the 960 forwards its digital audio from an hdmi source?


i only have one optical input on my receiver and would like to connect my system like this.


DVD PLAYER xbr960


xbr960audio receiver


so when I watch a dvd, will the audio get passed thru to the receiver? thx.


----------



## Shivan

Wait, am I missing something? Can you not plug the DVD player's optical audio into the receiver's? Either way, you're out one optical audio cable and one and one optical receiver input.


----------



## juandixon




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Shivan_
> *Wait, am I missing something? Can you not plug the DVD player's optical audio into the receiver's? Either way, you're out one optical audio cable and one and one optical receiver input.*



here is my problem.


my receiver = 1 optical in


dvd player+ 960 = 2 optical outs


but since the 960 accepts hdmi which is BOTH video AND audio, I am hoping for it to FORWARD that audio signal to the receiver therefore saving me one port.


dvd player (via hdmi)+ 960 = 1 optical out


----------



## jimg




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by mikeny_
> *This has probably been asked before and I did see some reference to cable and firewire to D-VHS but not satellite so here are 2 questions:
> 
> 
> 1. Has anyone tried to record to D-VHS with a Satellite Receiver configuration?
> 
> 
> 2. Is it possible to record HD this way using the firewire connection on the tv?*



After first tuning to an OTA digital channel, I can go to the iLink menu and record it to the D-VHS.


I cannot do this with the component in from my Dish HD receiver.


I will test this with the HDMI port later this week when the DVI-HDMI cable arrives.


Bottom line:

The 34xbr960 can send the digital tuner output to the firewire ports (from the iLink menu), and it can be recorded. However trying to change away from the tuner caused a popup message asking if you want to stop the recording. If you answer yes, it will stop the recorder and change video sources. If you answer no, it will remain on that channel and the recording will continue. Note: you can go to full-screen mode so you can watch what is being recorded in full screen mode, but you can't select another input source from the full screen without getting the prompt.


----------



## jbatt08

Juan,

No, it does not forward HDMI audio through the optical audio out port. Unfortunately I can only get it to forward OTA signals through the optical port. I have the same problem with the number of ports on my receiver.


----------



## juandixon

thx, i actually read the manual closely and even if it did, then it would be only be a 2 channel digi audio signal.


----------



## FreeflyKC

juandixon,


You could try an optical splitter. There are 2x1's that can be had for $10 or less. I've never tried one out, but for ten bucks it's worth a shot.


Good luck!


----------



## juandixon




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by FreeflyKC_
> *juandixon,
> 
> 
> You could try an optical splitter. There are 2x1's that can be had for $10 or less. I've never tried one out, but for ten bucks it's worth a shot.
> 
> 
> Good luck!*



thx I never knew those existed yet, will give it a shot


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by jimg_
> *After first tuning to an OTA digital channel, I can go to the iLink menu and record it to the D-VHS.
> 
> 
> I cannot do this with the component in from my Dish HD receiver.
> 
> 
> I will test this with the HDMI port later this week when the DVI-HDMI cable arrives.
> 
> 
> Bottom line:
> 
> The 34xbr960 can send the digital tuner output to the firewire ports (from the iLink menu), and it can be recorded. However trying to change away from the tuner caused a popup message asking if you want to stop the recording. If you answer yes, it will stop the recorder and change video sources. If you answer no, it will remain on that channel and the recording will continue. Note: you can go to full-screen mode so you can watch what is being recorded in full screen mode, but you can't select another input source from the full screen without getting the prompt.*



Well, that's fascinating. I don't have a D-VHS VCR, but I DO have a firewire mini-DV camcorder. So, I assume I could record SD programmng to the camcorder--right? Next question...what would happen if I tried to record HD material to the camcorder?


Mark


----------



## mikeny

Jimg,


Thanks for your anecdotal on the D-VHS attempt from Dish network. It's too bad that when you say yes at that prompt the recorder stops.


BTV Mark,


Good idea with the DV camcorder. I would expect it to work and it would encourage me to look into buying an HD Camcorder. Then I would need to evaluate out if it's cheaper than HD Tivo; which is quite frankly way too much me, especially after just getting the 960.


----------



## BTV Mark

Well, here's the story about the convergence error from ABT: No apology, no explanation. Just a message left on my answering machine that I need an ISF calibration for $500. Please call for your appointment.


Well, two questions: Can this be done in the home, and does anyone have any recommendations for the Northern Chicago suburbs?


Mark


----------



## JamisonBWolsh

1.) Yes , it can be done at home. It is done through the service menu.

2.) $500 is steep. I believe people can get ISF tech's for 250-350 depending on the tech. I would serach the groups and forums to find the BEST tech in your area. You just dont want anyone. Try to get references. Im sure there is a listing on the www, But I don't know of the site. Hopefully, someone can fill in the blank. If not, you can search the internet yourself...


----------



## Yung




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by BTV Mark_
> *Well, here's the story about the convergence error from ABT: No apology, no explanation. Just a message left on my answering machine that I need an ISF calibration for $500. Please call for your appointment.
> 
> 
> Well, two questions: Can this be done in the home, and does anyone have any recommendations for the Northern Chicago suburbs?
> 
> 
> Mark*



You can check out these sites.

http://www.docdvd.com 

http://www.imagingscience.com/


----------



## BTV Mark

Thanks, guys. Looks like a lot of info!


Executive Management was ok with the TV purchase, but I don't know how I'm gonna convince her I need the calibration...


Mark


----------



## cad_3




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by BTV Mark_
> *Thanks, guys. Looks like a lot of info!
> 
> 
> Executive Management was ok with the TV purchase, but I don't know how I'm gonna convince her I need the calibration...
> 
> 
> Mark*



I agree w/ JBW. $500 is Way steep. I spent around $325 for mine as I recall, which included the $50 travel fee... (calibration itself was only $275-hehe... I said only... 


Anywho, to offer my thoughts/opinions with absolutely NO PROOF on my part what-so-ever on the mini-dv cam recording...


The mini-dv cam to record HD I don't think would work as well as you'd hope... I think it would probably work, but if you're cam isn't HD (which mine isn't as I -only- spent 2k (there's that darn only word again)), I'm figuring you'll only get out SD quality (maybe very good SD quality but SD none-the-less....


That's why they have the Super-VHS or whatever it is that can record HD. Now, if you find you're able to get HD back out, please let me know, because I'll be all over that...


I've done a straight feed from the cam to the tv and a basic record and it's just nothing near HD quality... Welcome to the club









-C

Ps. The ISF Calibration is worth it. I teased my friend before he got his, because his ran him around $500 (Rear projection)... but looking at it afterwards told me I was wrong...


----------



## kdb209

Can anyone out there who has the 34XBR960 know if the set supports discreet

remote codes to select a video input, rather than having to cycle though video1/2/3/.../7.


Does the Sony remote provide this function?

Are there discreet codes I can learn from a OFA remote?


----------



## juandixon




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by kdb209_
> *Can anyone out there who has the 34XBR960 know if the set supports discreet
> 
> remote codes to select a video input, rather than having to cycle though video1/2/3/.../7.
> 
> 
> Does the Sony remote provide this function?
> 
> Are there discreet codes I can learn from a OFA remote?*



i really doubt it because all the IR is doing is sending signal that just says "hit". The tv receives that "hit" signal and just increments the video input.


Basically u want channel video 1, channel video 2, which is completely different logic than a single hit. I highly doubt sony went that extra step to program that feature. Be very nice if they did and if they did I am sure sony would market that as a feature in their spec.


----------



## kdb209




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by juandixon_
> *i really doubt it because all the IR is doing is sending signal that just says "hit". The tv receives that "hit" signal and just increments the video input.
> 
> 
> Basically u want channel video 1, channel video 2, which is completely different logic than a single hit. I highly doubt sony went that extra step to program that feature. Be very nice if they did and if they did I am sure sony would market that as a feature in their spec.*



I currently have a Samsung 46" DLP (HLP4663) that supports discreet codes.

The Samsung remote can only support cycling through the video inputs, but the

TV recognizes discreet codes to select any input. You need a preprogrammed

universal remote (like OFA) to generate/learn these discreet codes.


Does anyone know for sure if the 34XBR960 does or does not support similar

discreet codes?


Unfortunately the wife thinks the 46" Sammy is too big for our living room.

I have 30 days (well 23 days now) to convince her otherwise or the Sammy goes

back (sob,sob,sob,..) and I look for plan B - either a 34" direct view or a small

42" plasma.


----------



## TKO

kdb209,


The 960 does have discreet codes for all video inputs. They can be found at Remote Central .


Until yesterday I had the Samsung 46" DLP sitting right next to my 960. For the size of the room and picture quality I decided to keep the 960. This is not my main HDTV so I opted for picture quality over the size. Both sets are great but I thought for sports viewing, the 960 cannot be beat for color quality (blacks, etc.).


----------



## vsko

I just got a xbr 960 delivered a few days ago, but I wish I had found this message board before I bought it.


Anyway, after spending a lot of time reading through the posts I find that, just like my new set, many sets have geometry problems. Mine set had a D shape distortion all the way accross, which is very annoying, as well as a tiny bit of distortion in the extreme corners, which I wouldn't see if I didn't look really hard.


I also many posts about correcting some geometry issues in the service menu, but can't find anything about how to get into this menu. The kind of distortion I see can be corrected on digital trinitron computer monitors I have had over the years. I fact, I just made my 21" monitor look like my new TV by fiddling with the geometry settings. I also saw a post claiming that sony will sell a service manual to anyone for less than 40 dollars. Can anyone confirm these findings.


Otherwise, the TV is nice. I don't have HD yet (San Mateo, CA), but it should be piped out in a few weeks over comcast cable. The old analog cable looks much better than I expected, after turning off all that edge enhansement and stuff. I probably have 30 year old cable in the house, and it didn't look great on my 22 inch old sony. But its not any worse on the XBR960, just bigger and more obvious.


To sum up:

1. Can D shape distortions be corrected in the service menu?

2. How does one enter the service menu?

3. Has anyone obtained a service manual from sony?


Thanks, and I'll let everyone know if I get any improvemnts ever.


Vern


----------



## Mike3

I've had a KV-HS510 for almost a year now and the vertical scanning bar problem which appears to be resolved finally, but now I have a 480p problem as well as an index problem. Anyway CC got tired of fixing it and authorized a return. I'm getting the 960 and I thought I might not be able to get into the 960 without spending a lot more money. I had gotten my 510 for 1699 when it was still retailing for 1999 so I thought they'd be talking about $500 more. Anyway when the CC associate pulled it up in his system it showed a large number in their warehouse (85) and a price of 1899, so I jumped at the opportunity. Apparently, it will be delivered tomorrow and they'll take the old one away.


My only fear is that I'm going to get shafted on the warranty as they warned me it's not likely going to be an evenly prorated refund. All and all though, I suppose $200 is worth the upgrade to move to the XBR series and integrated tuner. Now I just have to invest in a DVI to HDMI cable and some more firewires.


----------



## kdb209




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by TKO_
> *kdb209,
> 
> 
> The 960 does have discreet codes for all video inputs. They can be found at Remote Central .
> 
> 
> Until yesterday I had the Samsung 46" DLP sitting right next to my 960. For the size of the room and picture quality I decided to keep the 960. This is not my main HDTV so I opted for picture quality over the size. Both sets are great but I thought for sports viewing, the 960 cannot be beat for color quality (blacks, etc.).*



TKO,


Thanks for the info. I have an MX-500 and an older OFA remote, so I should be able

to learn the discreet codes.


Since you have had a chance to play with both the Sammy and the 960, could you

comment on the picture quality between the two:


- HD

- DVD (480p)

- SD

- analog


How much tweaking did you do on each of the sets for PQ - none, pure SWAG,

DVE/Avia, ISF calibration?


Did you have any quality issues on the two sets (Lamp/Ballast on the sammy or

geometry issues on the 960)?


This will be my primary HD set. I would like to stay larger with the Sammy, but am

fighting a losing battle with the wife, and the 960 looks like the best option for plan B.

(I doubt I could get her to approve the cost of a decent 42" HD Plasma).


Thanks,


-kdb


----------



## Segaboy

You can call the Sony Service Center and request one, and they will send it within a couple of days. That is how I got my Service Manual for the XBR960.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by BTV Mark_
> *Well, here's the story about the convergence error from ABT: No apology, no explanation. Just a message left on my answering machine that I need an ISF calibration for $500. Please call for your appointment.
> 
> 
> Well, two questions: Can this be done in the home, and does anyone have any recommendations for the Northern Chicago suburbs?
> 
> 
> Mark*



Here's a happy follow-up.


After a series of follow-up phone calls, ABT agreed to send someone out again. They made sure it was a different technician. This guy was sharp. He looked at the set, and readily agreed that the convergence was off a bit. But he told me up front not to expect TOO much. After about 30 minutes' work, I am much happier. There was a huge improvement, so I'm a happy camper. ABT is once again my favorite retailer.


How big an improvement? Well, those of us who buy this set and check this thread aren't your average TV viewers. We paid a lot for this set--and we expect it to give an excellent picture. But I'm a realist--I know nothing is PERFECT. But I believe this is as good as this set can be, so now I'm gonna settle down and enjoy it.


Mark


----------



## max2004

Mike3,


Am I reading your post correctly? Does Circuit City have the 960 for $1899? Their web site is still listing it for $2199. Anyway, good luck with the new 960 and I hope you have better luck with it. Keep us updated.


----------



## cad_3

Have had the XBR since it's release date... it's even been calibrated...


But last night it started acting up (?) Normally when I hit the power, it simply turns off. Not last night.


The screen went mostly dark, except for the center (about 2-3 sq. inches), where I could see a swath of Red, a swath of Green, and one of Blue (imagine a mercedes-benz symbol, with each of the areas filled in with one color.)


That just sat there for a moment then faded...


Normally when I turn the tv on, I get the satisfying degaussing twing sound... but that wasn't the case when I turned the TV back on... (however, the picture and sound still worked just like always)...


Anyone know what this is or if I need to worry about it? Your help is greatly appreciated!










-C


----------



## Salem_Sony

Well I finally bought my KD-34XBR960 and got a pretty damn good deal on it at Cambridge Sound Works in Peabody MASS.


I guess there's a 10% off on the TV (until the end of Sept) plus a $25 dollar coupon at the store, a free SU34XBR1 stand ( 910 version which will fit), a 5 yr warranty for $179.99 and 0 APR for 15 months with minumum payments (they also had a 0 APR, no payment for 12 months but I rather start paying for the TV....hehheee) with a grand total of $2233.98.


The only problem the tv is backed up but they should receive a shipment sometime the 2nd week of Octber......worth the wait.


CC had the tv but didn't give me the 10% off and no free 910 stand....so I left......


Well I got the saddle, now I only have to wait for the horse to come...


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by cad_3_
> *Have had the XBR since it's release date... it's even been calibrated...
> 
> 
> But last night it started acting up (?) Normally when I hit the power, it simply turns off. Not last night.
> 
> 
> The screen went mostly dark, except for the center (about 2-3 sq. inches), where I could see a swath of Red, a swath of Green, and one of Blue (imagine a mercedes-benz symbol, with each of the areas filled in with one color.)
> 
> 
> That just sat there for a moment then faded...
> 
> 
> Normally when I turn the tv on, I get the satisfying degaussing twing sound... but that wasn't the case when I turned the TV back on... (however, the picture and sound still worked just like always)...
> 
> 
> Anyone know what this is or if I need to worry about it? Your help is greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -C*




Well, this could be anything--or nothing. Try unplugging the TV for a few minutes. Then plug it back in and turn it on.



Mark


----------



## Mike3

I received my TV on Saturday after ordering it Thursday night from my local CC. I had 1700 credit for the hs510 that iwas returning and it cost me an extra $200 for the 960 and the warranty was something like $240 for a 3 year. It was in their system at the store for 1899, but I too see it on the website at 2199. It was only avaiable at the store via special order whatever that means.


I'm impressed so far. I picked up quite a few HD OTAs, but believe I used to pick up a few more with separate OTA tuners. I have to look into the cable card soon. Funny thing was that some of the OTA networks that I picked up appeared better than the QAM network feeds. I need to find a resource about my local QAM channels, that is what is available and and what channel numbers (in the Philadelphia area).


I also need to pick up a DVI to HDMI adaptor. I was shocked when I saw the price of the DVI-HDMI cable at my local BB & CC. The adaptor can be had for about thirty online.


I like the fact that some of the geometry can be adjusted right ouot of the box and via the main menu. I am far from an expert and I'm not sure I would no a convergence problem if I saw one, but I'm pretty pleased after a couple of days of having the TV.


I also like the firewire capability... I've had my cable box and a DV cam hooked up so far and it's seemless. The only problem with the firewire is it can't be treated like any other video meaning you can't do PIP or index or favorites or things like that.


I kinda wish I had a memory stick camera, but since I have 3 Kodaks I guess I'm out of luck... my 510 said that it would only display photos on memory stick take on a Sony camera. Is that true of the 960 too or would it be possible to display jpgs take on another camera and moved to memory stick? It would be nice to run slide shows on it.


I'll let you know more as I learn more.


----------



## twocan

Hi,


I apologize if this isn't the appropriate thread to post this subject, but it is regarding the 960. I have been torn between the 34xbr906 and the 36xs955 and have finally decided on the widescreen. My question is if I am able to "haggle" down the price at Circuit City, will I still be able to use one of those 10% coupons. I have seen them on ebay and the fine print doesn't say anything about excluding xbr's like most of CC's promotions. Also, I plan on using a large amount of gift cards to make the purchase. I know not to mention the gc's or the coupon while negotiating, but I want to be sure I can use the 10% if I get a lower price. The coupon says no valid on sale items, but I don't think haggling down would be a sale item.


Another related question is how do you negotiate? I am very bad at it. I was looking at the 960 the other day and just casually asked if there will be any sales and he said, no, the xbr doesn't go on sale. I am going to print out the page with all the prices and try that. Obviously, I want to get the best price possible and I am always amazed at hearing when people get a free warranty and free stand with their purchase. Any other suggestions would be much appreciated.


Thank you and I apologize for the long post.


Brett


----------



## cad_3




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by twocan_
> *Hi,
> 
> 
> I apologize if this isn't the appropriate thread to post this subject, but it is regarding the 960. I have been torn between the 34xbr906 and the 36xs955 and have finally decided on the widescreen. My question is if I am able to "haggle" down the price at Circuit City, will I still be able to use one of those 10% coupons. I have seen them on ebay and the fine print doesn't say anything about excluding xbr's like most of CC's promotions. Also, I plan on using a large amount of gift cards to make the purchase. I know not to mention the gc's or the coupon while negotiating, but I want to be sure I can use the 10% if I get a lower price. The coupon says no valid on sale items, but I don't think haggling down would be a sale item.
> 
> 
> Another related question is how do you negotiate? I am very bad at it. I was looking at the 960 the other day and just casually asked if there will be any sales and he said, no, the xbr doesn't go on sale. I am going to print out the page with all the prices and try that. Obviously, I want to get the best price possible and I am always amazed at hearing when people get a free warranty and free stand with their purchase. Any other suggestions would be much appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thank you and I apologize for the long post.
> 
> 
> Brett*


 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...59#post4012159 


I describe how I got my deal... Simply talk w/ a manager and ask for 10% off the tv. If they don't give it to you, call the next on your list. Since CC is a chain-B&M... you can buy from any one of them,... and then have them route it to the CC nearest you...







Which is exactly what I did because the Store Owner where I live is an @$$hole. I had an agreement w/ the Director of Operations (not some low level flunky)... but he said he wouldn't honor it... so I called around... Took me about 1/2 an hour and I saved $200 (I make a good wage, but I don't make $400 an hour







Well worth my time.










Good luck!

-C


----------



## juandixon

what picture mode/screen mode do you guys use? pro? standard? movie?


I am currently using pro, but standard also really looks good.


For screen mode I use full for 16:9, full for dvd and full for 4:3. Everything set to progressive.


What do you guys have ur sets at?


----------



## jdaniel2

I just got my KD-34XBR960 on Tuesday (9/28) and have a couple of questions.

1) when it is first turned on the picture (NTSC signal via cable) is real poor then after a few minutes is clears up. Is that normal?

2) with a 4:3 signal and screen mode at "normal" the picture with the

surrounding pillar bars seems very slightly hour-glass shaped. Can this be somehow adjusted?

3) I have Comcast here in St. Paul MN very basic service (analog NTSC) that I pay about 9.50 a month for. I called to have them upgrade me to HD with the cable card. They will do this for $30 install and an additional $5 a month bringing my bill to about $15 a month. Is that all there is to it?

4) Should I have this set calibrated? Can I do this myself?


My biggest concern is question 1 above and whether or not this has been others experience as well. TIA Dan


----------



## juandixon




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by jdaniel2_
> *I just got my KD-34XBR960 on Tuesday (9/28) and have a couple of questions.
> 
> 1) when it is first turned on the picture (NTSC signal via cable) is real poor then after a few minutes is clears up. Is that normal?
> 
> 2) with a 4:3 signal and screen mode at "normal" the picture with the
> 
> surrounding pillar bars seems very slightly hour-glass shaped. Can this be somehow adjusted?
> 
> 3) I have Comcast here in St. Paul MN very basic service (analog NTSC) that I pay about 9.50 a month for. I called to have them upgrade me to HD with the cable card. They will do this for $30 install and an additional $5 a month bringing my bill to about $15 a month. Is that all there is to it?
> 
> 4) Should I have this set calibrated? Can I do this myself?
> 
> 
> My biggest concern is question 1 above and whether or not this has been others experience as well. TIA Dan*



1) there is a diagnostics feature in the menu to check for signal strenght and errors. You may need a signal booster or may not need one.


2) yes thats a basic geometry issue that either u or a pro calibrator can fix


3) I have very basic cable but with the 960 tuner i was able to get 200 extra digital stations including all the local HD stations for free just by hooking up the cable line to the tv. I "think" its a law that cable companies have to give you at least the local HD stations for free with basic cable. And in my case that is true. In you autoprogram when you first setup, did it detect any digital stations? If so then its a good chance you may have gotten an HD station in there too. Note the new channels are gonna be weird like >80 and sometimes with a decimal in them. Just go to channel 2 on your set and channel down to see if you have em.


4) that depends on ur own expectations. i am just doing the basics myself via AVIA dvd but really very happy/satisfied with the out of box settings.


----------



## huggeeze

Thought I had seen somewhere in this thread where it was commented that these geometry problems appeared to be lessening w/ the newer sets purchased in August (showed serial numbers above certain number, I thought).


Is there a way when calling around to CC to ask what serial number is for specific tv, or does that require opening the box?


----------



## juandixon




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by huggeeze_
> *Thought I had seen somewhere in this thread where it was commented that these geometry problems appeared to be lessening w/ the newer sets purchased in August (showed serial numbers above certain number, I thought).
> 
> 
> Is there a way when calling around to CC to ask what serial number is for specific tv, or does that require opening the box?*



funny thing you asked, when I bought my 960 at CC the first thing I asked the sales dude was what the serial number was. He gave me a puzzled look, but then went in back and it was written right on the box itself. So no need to open the box they should be able to get you that number. mine was in the 8006xxxx range and was assembled in august in mexico lol. working perfectly.


----------



## huggeeze




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by juandixon_
> *funny thing you asked, when I bought my 960 at CC the first thing I asked the sales dude was what the serial number was. He gave me a puzzled look, but then went in back and it was written right on the box itself. So no need to open the box they should be able to get you that number. mine was in the 8006xxxx range and was assembled in august in mexico lol. working perfectly.*



perfect...thanks!


----------



## snclawson

Well, I've finally got an `old-timer' update on my set (built in July). This set had the tuner problem and developed the `pops' maybe two weeks after getting it that continually got more frequent.


All the parts from Sony finally came in and the local repair guy came by this afternoon (no Sony factory repair in Utah). He bad both a new power board and a small surface mount resistor to replace. The repair took about 2 hours total, most of that was spent trying to find the board that Sony was talking about! It turned out that it was the bottom main board on the right (looking from behind the set). The guy did a great job swapping the resistor out, ony took about a minute. The thing was so tiny that you had to hold it with a small pair of tweezers. =)


So...now I'm a little nervous; I sure hope that both problems have been fixed! Only time will tell though.


----------



## Hiloboy

''there is a diagnostics feature in the menu to check for signal strenght and errors. You may need a signal booster or may not need one.''




Juandixon,


Do you need a cablecard to get into this diagnostics menu? I tried it on my tv and although I see it there, it's not accessible. It's sort of shaded out along with the cablecard option. Is there any other way to find your signal strength?


Thanks


----------



## juandixon




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Hiloboy_
> *''there is a diagnostics feature in the menu to check for signal strenght and errors. You may need a signal booster or may not need one.''
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Juandixon,
> 
> 
> Do you need a cablecard to get into this diagnostics menu? I tried it on my tv and although I see it there, it's not accessible. It's sort of shaded out along with the cablecard option. Is there any other way to find your signal strength?
> 
> 
> Thanks*



howzit hiloboy, my good friend is from hilo, I am in LA now but from oahu. anyways i just have the raw cable feed connected directly to the tv cable coaxial input. and it gives me the diagnostics option. I don't have a cablecard. I dont use the ant or vhf coaxial input.


----------



## snclawson

No upate on the `tuner problem', but the `pops' are still there. Swapping out the power board didn't do anything. =(


----------



## doretta




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Mike3_
> *
> 
> I kinda wish I had a memory stick camera, but since I have 3 Kodaks I guess I'm out of luck... my 510 said that it would only display photos on memory stick take on a Sony camera. Is that true of the 960 too or would it be possible to display jpgs take on another camera and moved to memory stick? It would be nice to run slide shows on it.
> *



You can display JPEGs from other cameras. I have an Olympus camera that takes smartmedia and one of those $20 USB every-flash-format-that-exists reader/writers. I use the reader/writer connected to a PC to copy pictures from the smartmedia to the memory stick and they display fine on my 960.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Hiloboy_
> *''there is a diagnostics feature in the menu to check for signal strenght and errors. You may need a signal booster or may not need one.''
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Juandixon,
> 
> 
> Do you need a cablecard to get into this diagnostics menu? I tried it on my tv and although I see it there, it's not accessible. It's sort of shaded out along with the cablecard option. Is there any other way to find your signal strength?
> 
> 
> Thanks*



Hiloboy, the diagnostic menu is only active on digital signals. Turne your set to a digital channel (SD or HD) and you'll be able to access that feature.


Mark


----------



## Hiloboy

Juandixon- thanks for the reply. I did check my connection, which is connected the same way as yours but it still didn't work. Couldn't figure out why.



Mark, thanks for the new info. I'll give it a try when I get home. I noticed a lot of people complaining about the picture quality on non-hd channels, but mine seems fine, just a little bit worse than my old analog sony, which I expected, but it is watchable. I live in a new building so the cable must be good-- just wanted to check and compare my signal strength with others here.


----------



## MichaelDaly

From someone who's had the "tuner problems", what exactly are the symptons of the problem? I've had digital cable via a cable card for a few weeks now with no problems. On Wednesday night, about half of the digital channels were coming up with No Signal. On Thursday night, I experienced the same thing only it was now more like 90% of the digital channels were not available. I have placed a service call with Comcast and they will be coming out on Sunday morning to check it out. Additionally, when I called Comcast, they noted a service problem in my area. I'm not sure if this is related or not.


I'm still going to have Comcast check it out but I wanted to better understand the tuner problem that has been communicated here by a large number of folks to determine if my set is affected.


Thanks in advance.


----------



## 56Oval

Michael,


I never had a cable card in my 960, but my tuner problem (with two different sets), and what others have described include no digital reception at all after the TV has been off for a few hours. If the TV power is turned off and back on the digital reception comes right back.


The loss of some channels and not all make me wonder if it is a signal strength problem. It doesn't sound like a tuner problem with the television if you are only losing certain channels. Or at least it doesn't sound at all like the tuner problem that plagued a bunch of the early production models.


MW



> Quote:
> _Originally posted by MichaelDaly_
> *From someone who's had the "tuner problems", what exactly are the symptons of the problem? I've had digital cable via a cable card for a few weeks now with no problems. On Wednesday night, about half of the digital channels were coming up with No Signal. On Thursday night, I experienced the same thing only it was now more like 90% of the digital channels were not available. I have placed a service call with Comcast and they will be coming out on Sunday morning to check it out. Additionally, when I called Comcast, they noted a service problem in my area. I'm not sure if this is related or not.
> 
> 
> I'm still going to have Comcast check it out but I wanted to better understand the tuner problem that has been communicated here by a large number of folks to determine if my set is affected.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.*


----------



## sleepdoc

Just got this TV and am very pleased with it. Wanted to ask if I had to go through initial set-up (setting language, tilt etc) everytime I turn on the TV or is there a way so that this doesn't happen?


----------



## rekalil

I am interested in purchasing a Sony KD 34XBR960, but after reading about all of the problems this model has had, I don't want to buy one that has been built before September. The serial number of the each set is on the outside of the box, but not the date of manufacture. Can one deduce the D.O.M. from the serial number? If not, is there any office at Sony that can provide this information?

Thanks very much.

Sincerely,

Ron


----------



## FreeflyKC




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by rekalil_
> *Can one deduce the D.O.M. from the serial number?*



Aug. s/n 8005xxx.

Sept. s/n 8007xxx.


----------



## juandixon

mine is 8006xxx made in Aug in mexico, works perfect


----------



## tennberg

So, I have a 960 that's a little over a month old (8005xxx serial number, manuf. Aug. 2004). I noticed today that a pixel had gone completely black practically dead center on the screen. I thought it was an HD show I was watching, so I switched it to other channels and the same pixel was black on all channels.


I purchased the 5 year warranty from Tweeter that covers defects, dead pixels, etc. I will be calling them tomorrow to set up an exchange on the set. I still have the original box and all papers, so it should be a breeze for them to remove. I'm wondering if the replacement set will have an Oct. build date or if it's too soon in the month for that.


----------



## spider4re

I have been getting a ton of requests for the best price on the 34xbr960. I have had several people get the deal from the "champ" on the best price website but they are not delivering anymore (only in store pick up) Could anyone who has purchased the TV provide me with the price you received (anything under $2,100.00) and the store and its location so I can provide our new members with the most current info.


email your best price, store, and location to: [email protected] 


most appreciated


the retailers nightmare --- an educated consumer


----------



## billmail1

Sleepdoc,


You only need to go through this setup the first time you turn on the set. Once you complete the setup screens (language, channel scanning and picture tilt) you will not be prompted again.


Bill


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by tennberg_
> *So, I have a 960 that's a little over a month old (8005xxx serial number, manuf. Aug. 2004). I noticed today that a pixel had gone completely black practically dead center on the screen. I thought it was an HD show I was watching, so I switched it to other channels and the same pixel was black on all channels.
> 
> 
> I purchased the 5 year warranty from Tweeter that covers defects, dead pixels, etc. I will be calling them tomorrow to set up an exchange on the set. I still have the original box and all papers, so it should be a breeze for them to remove. I'm wondering if the replacement set will have an Oct. build date or if it's too soon in the month for that.*



So I guess I'm the idiot for not having them explain to me the *specifics* of the warranty.


I called Tweeter's Raid Response team and they explained that dead spots are a "wear and tear" item, and that there has to be at least 8-10 of them in the "center zone" for Tweeter to do a warranty replacement. So, here I am stuck with a $2200 TV, a $200 warranty, and a dead spot.


To be honest, I've never seen a CRT that has had a dead spot on it, and I've owned many a TV set and computer monitor.


So I called Sony and the guy I got said he's never heard of a CRT developing a dead spot like that. So he said if I had just gone with Sony's warranty, they would set up a repair. If that didn't fix it, they would set up an exchange. Since I went with Tweeter's warranty, he said to call them back and explain everything in the call with Sony.


So, the second guy I spoke to at Tweeter said the first guy misunderstood me and gave me the information for a plasma or LCD, even though I told him I had a CRT. He is setting up to have a technician come over to check out the TV. Hopefully, it will be an exchange rather than a repair. I really couldn't stand not having the TV for a while  Plus, I'd almost rather have an even newer unit since it seems those produced after August have even fewer problems (mine was produced in August).


I'll keep you all informed of any progress.


----------



## BloatedCorpse

I had a similar dead spot on my old 34HS510 last year...actually it was my first one...3 510's and one 960 later, I'm still getting another replacement and driving my wife to an early divorce...hopefully my lawyers will have me keep the new 960....hehe


----------



## NorthJersey

remember, BC, you can find a new wife anywhere. As for a perfectly working Sony HDTV, now THAT'S another story...


----------



## BloatedCorpse

..true....I'm sticking with them both, purely to satisfy my morbid curiousity.....LOL


----------



## Yung




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by tennberg_
> *So I guess I'm the idiot for not having them explain to me the specifics of the warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> So I called Sony and the guy I got said he's never heard of a CRT developing a dead spot like that. So he said if I had just gone with Sony's warranty, they would set up a repair. If that didn't fix it, they would set up an exchange. Since I went with Tweeter's warranty, he said to call them back and explain everything in the call with Sony.
> 
> *



Tennberg,

Sorry to hear about your 960. I think I got mine about the same time as yours, also mfg in August. So far everything seems fine. I thought the Sony 2-year warranty runs concurrently with any store warranty you choose, not in lieu of.


I got mine from CC but did not choose their warranty package which was about $220+ for 3 years and about $300+ for 5 years. I believe Sony provides a 2 yr warranty on all their xbr products, at least thats what the warranty card said that came with the unit, even though CC insists that Sony only provides a 1 yr warranty.


----------



## papaia




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Yung_
> *Tennberg,
> 
> Sorry to hear about your 960. I think I got mine about the same time as yours, also mfg in August. So far everything seems fine. I thought the Sony 2-year warranty runs concurrently with any store warranty you choose, not in lieu of.
> 
> 
> I got mine from CC but did not choose their warranty package which was about $220+ for 3 years and about $300+ for 5 years. I believe Sony provides a 2 yr warranty on all their xbr products, at least thats what the warranty card said that came with the unit, even though CC insists that Sony only provides a 1 yr warranty.*



Interesting info - I just came back from a system "hunt" - ran CC and Tweeter against each other, and came up with pretty nice discount ... but now I wonder if I should even consider the 5-year contract from Tweeter, or just stick with Sony's ... though for a $180/5 yrs it may not hurt having it there, just in case


----------



## powersd

I have read virtually this entire thread. I think I want it. But it looks like the tv portion of the entertainment center is about 36" wide, while this TV is 39.5" wide. Do I have that correct?


I guess I could always put the entertainment center in the bedroom, but it is a nice one. Decisons...


First post!


-dmp


P.S. If I decided to keep the entertainment center, what's the next best TV that would fit?


----------



## sleepdoc

Just got the 960 a week ago and wanted to know if you use interlaced or progressive scan mode via component input. I have mine on interlaced (cheaper 1 year old panasonic) going by conventional wisdom that the tv would do a better job than the dvd player at upconverting the image. Anyone doing otherwise?


----------



## 56Oval




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by sleepdoc_
> *Just got the 960 a week ago and wanted to know if you use interlaced or progressive scan mode via component input. I have mine on interlaced (cheaper 1 year old panasonic) going by conventional wisdom that the tv would do a better job than the dvd player at upconverting the image. Anyone doing otherwise?*



At first I hooked Sony DVP-500 (My long lasting 7 year old DVD player) to the 960. Image was beautiful, but this player is too old to do any of the different format outputs (like 16:9). This model had component video out, but only interlaced.


On a great deal ($100 after rebates) and to consolidate my old Sony TiVo and to get a progressive scan DVD (and progressive scan TiVo!), I bought a Toshiba TiVo/DVD player combo and hooked it up component to the 960.


I must say the picture was MUCH better with the new DVD player. I don't know if I can attribute this to going progressive scan, or because the DVD player supports 16:9 output modes, and is a newer model.


Now, there are a couple Samsung players that output DVI/HDMI 720p (the DVD player does the upconvert). I would be interested to find out what people think when having the DVD player do it, versus having the television do it. I would think that the TV would do a better job perhaps, but then again the DVI DVD player would be digital all the way to the TV.


That's my 10 cents worth.


MW


----------



## juandixon




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by 56Oval_
> *At first I hooked Sony DVP-500 (My long lasting 7 year old DVD player) to the 960. Image was beautiful, but this player is too old to do any of the different format outputs (like 16:9). This model had component video out, but only interlaced.
> 
> 
> On a great deal ($100 after rebates) and to consolidate my old Sony TiVo and to get a progressive scan DVD (and progressive scan TiVo!), I bought a Toshiba TiVo/DVD player combo and hooked it up component to the 960.
> 
> 
> I must say the picture was MUCH better with the new DVD player. I don't know if I can attribute this to going progressive scan, or because the DVD player supports 16:9 output modes, and is a newer model.
> 
> 
> Now, there are a couple Samsung players that output DVI/HDMI 720p (the DVD player does the upconvert). I would be interested to find out what people think when having the DVD player do it, versus having the television do it. I would think that the TV would do a better job perhaps, but then again the DVI DVD player would be digital all the way to the TV.
> 
> 
> That's my 10 cents worth.
> 
> 
> MW*


 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...hreadid=454315 


i guess its a wait and see till those new hdmi upscaling players come out later this month.


----------



## kdb209




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by powersd_
> *I have read virtually this entire thread. I think I want it. But it looks like the tv portion of the entertainment center is about 36" wide, while this TV is 39.5" wide. Do I have that correct?
> 
> 
> I guess I could always put the entertainment center in the bedroom, but it is a nice one. Decisons...
> 
> 
> First post!
> 
> 
> -dmp
> 
> 
> P.S. If I decided to keep the entertainment center, what's the next best TV that would fit?*



Based on reviews and other threads here, I would recommend the Toshiba 34HFX84 .

It is less than 34" wide (33 5/8 x 21 3/8 x 23 3/4) as well as 40 lbs lighter than the

Sony. No built in tuners, but 2 HDMI and 2 Component inputs.


I'm considering the Toshiba as well as the Sony for my plan B.

I have a new 46" Samsung DLP that the wife thinks is too big and will

probably be going back to TVA (whimper, whimper).


I haven't found any place local that has the Toshiba in stock yet. I've seen the

34HF84 and the 34HFX83 (last years), and liked the picture. It's quite as nice

as the Sony, but is $500 cheaper, and since I'll be using an HD DirecTivo, the

integrated tuners are less important.


----------



## Mike3

I'm noticing my first slight problem and wanted to check with you to see if you've noticed it. Is this TV loud? Turn down the volume all the way and tell me if you hear the power supply or something buzzing? I'll double-check to make sure it wasn't something else running but I was pretty sure last night at least that the TV seemed loud with the volume down.


By "loud" I mean audible because normally you wouldn't expect to hear it at all. Anyway, one thing I have noticed is that it is by far the loudest television I have ever heard "powering up".


All and all, I still love my new TV and am waiting on a cable card install to see how much of an advantage it offers.


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Yung_
> *Tennberg,
> 
> Sorry to hear about your 960. I think I got mine about the same time as yours, also mfg in August. So far everything seems fine. I thought the Sony 2-year warranty runs concurrently with any store warranty you choose, not in lieu of.
> 
> 
> I got mine from CC but did not choose their warranty package which was about $220+ for 3 years and about $300+ for 5 years. I believe Sony provides a 2 yr warranty on all their xbr products, at least thats what the warranty card said that came with the unit, even though CC insists that Sony only provides a 1 yr warranty.*



So a Tweeter technician is going to be calling me to check out the set and see what he can do. I've already tried degaussing the set and that had no effect.


By the way, ever since I degaussed the set, every time I start up the TV now, it walks me through the initial setup. How do I make that go away?


----------



## sleepdoc

Had that same problem and the way I fixed it was to go through the channel setting process and aborting early since I exclusively use a cable box for tv viewing and have no interest in getting cablecard for the time being especially with the posts saying how much slower surfing channels is with this compared to an external tuner..


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by tennberg_
> *So a Tweeter technician is going to be calling me to check out the set and see what he can do. I've already tried degaussing the set and that had no effect.
> 
> 
> By the way, ever since I degaussed the set, every time I start up the TV now, it walks me through the initial setup. How do I make that go away?*



As an update, Tweeter is sending out a technician on Friday afternoon to check out the set and see what he can figure out. Degaussing the set did not make the dead spot disappear so I'm thinking the only solution is to either repair the set or exchange it. The quickest for both me and Tweeter would be to simply exchange it. I'm going to try to convince him to do that, as I'd hate to not have this set for a while. Hopefully a new set will have been produced in either September or October and Sony will have fixed any remaining bugs from the initial batches. I'm just still baffled, as I've never seen a CRT with a dead spot.


One of the people at Sony said that since the sets are injection molded in the center of the screen, this is what I could be seeing. Is this possible? I swear I've never seen this spot before. Any truth to this? Do other people had a dead spot (about 1 millimeter square) near the center of your screen?


----------



## LeRolls

Hey guys, I've been reading this thread for awhile now and finally decided to get the 960.


A friend of mine sold me his Su-34HS1 TV stand for $30. It's an older Sony stand but it says it's compatible with the older 34' XBR models. I know the SU-34XBR3 is the official stand for the 960 but I was wondering if SU-34HS1 would also work. It's suppose to be able to hold 247 pounds and the dimensions seem to be almost exactly the same when I looked them up. Is the surface where the TV sits shaped differently on these two stands or do you think I'll be OK?


I really appreciate any help you guys can give and I also wanted to say that this thread has been a great resource.


Thanks


----------



## juandixon




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by LeRolls_
> *Hey guys, I've been reading this thread for awhile now and finally decided to get the 960.
> 
> 
> A friend of mine sold me his Su-34HS1 TV stand for $30. It's an older Sony stand but it says it's compatible with the older 34' XBR models. I know the SU-34XBR3 is the official stand for the 960 but I was wondering if SU-34HS1 would also work. It's suppose to be able to hold 247 pounds and the dimensions seem to be almost exactly the same when I looked them up. Is the surface where the TV sits shaped differently on these two stands or do you think I'll be OK?
> 
> 
> I really appreciate any help you guys can give and I also wanted to say that this thread has been a great resource.
> 
> 
> Thanks*



su34xbr1 and su24xbr3 are the only compatible 960 models that i know of. remember 34hs1 is for a 34" 4:3 tv which is much different in size than a 34 " 16:9


----------



## kramdens

I've read many posts about the xbr910 having a fairly dark picture....how's the 960 in comparison? Was it even an issue with the 910 or an over exaggeration?


----------



## BTV Mark

I have noticed this, too. At first I was bothered by it. But I adjusted one of the picture modes ("pro") to slightly higher brightness and lower contrast. I also lowered the ambient room lighting. Now I've gotten used to this effect, and I actually prefer it--more like a movie theater. Good grayscale reproduction is a strong suite of the '960 ('910 too, I presume). It's just that 50 years of TV viewing had taught me the expect a washed-out gray picture!


Mark


----------



## tennberg

To All 960 Owners:


I was wondering if any of you have this problem with your 960. The other day, I noticed a dead spot on the screen about 1 millimeter square about 1.5 inches right of dead-center of the screen. This spot stays black on both DVD and cable sources and never moves, so it is definitely a dead spot. Degaussing did not help.


Sony said it might have been due to the manufacturing process. They said the screens are injection molded right in the center and this may be the spot I am seeing.


So, all 960 owners, do you have any small dead spots on the center of your screen? If none of you have it, I am definitely going to have Tweeter replace the set.


Thanks!


----------



## LeRolls




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by juandixon_
> *su34xbr1 and su24xbr3 are the only compatible 960 models that i know of. remember 34hs1 is for a 34" 4:3 tv which is much different in size than a 34 " 16:9*



Actually the SU-34HS1 was meant for the KV-34HS510 which is 16:9.


----------



## bobk999

There is a new acticle on the CableCARD at soundandvisionmag (can't post URL's yet), do search on 'wild card'.


My 960 ships today from ABT, they just received new stock yesterday.


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by tennberg_
> *To All 960 Owners:
> 
> 
> I was wondering if any of you have this problem with your 960. The other day, I noticed a dead spot on the screen about 1 millimeter square about 1.5 inches right of dead-center of the screen. This spot stays black on both DVD and cable sources and never moves, so it is definitely a dead spot. Degaussing did not help.
> 
> 
> Sony said it might have been due to the manufacturing process. They said the screens are injection molded right in the center and this may be the spot I am seeing.
> 
> 
> So, all 960 owners, do you have any small dead spots on the center of your screen? If none of you have it, I am definitely going to have Tweeter replace the set.
> 
> 
> Thanks!*



Update:


I got a call this afternoon from a Tweeter technician who was about 30 minutes away and wanted a detailed description of the problem with the set. I explained to him what was going on with the dead spot, and he is going to set up an exchange of the set. He said if he drove all the way here and saw it, he would make the same diagnosis. The only way to repair it would be to replace the entire tube, and he did not want to go through the hassle of that.


I will make a note of the current serial number and the serial of the new set, and post some descriptions of any differences between them. The one I have now was produced in August.


----------



## snclawson

Funny you should mention a tube replacement...since that's what's currently in the cards for my set. The `pops' had finally gotten so bad that I was able to demonstrate the problem to a tech and as much as he didn't want to admit it, the tube is bad. The one good thing about the set is that the Sony fix for the `cold tuner' problem worked great.


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by tennberg_
> *Update:
> 
> 
> I got a call this afternoon from a Tweeter technician who was about 30 minutes away and wanted a detailed description of the problem with the set. I explained to him what was going on with the dead spot, and he is going to set up an exchange of the set. He said if he drove all the way here and saw it, he would make the same diagnosis. The only way to repair it would be to replace the entire tube, and he did not want to go through the hassle of that.
> 
> 
> I will make a note of the current serial number and the serial of the new set, and post some descriptions of any differences between them. The one I have now was produced in August.*



I got a call from a Tweeter rep who told me the tech mentioned replacing the tube. I corrected him and said the tech recommended an exchange. The rep said they currently don't have any in stock but will be getting a shipment on Oct. 18, and that he put me down for one of them. Here's hoping this set is even better.


----------



## 56Oval

Hello all,


I hope I don't get in trouble by digressing on the thread, but it seems to have slowed down a bit lately, so maybe I'll throw something out.


I bailed on the 960 (after being impatient and exchanging three of them) because of the "cold tuner" problem that some of us had at first. (I wasn't patient enough to get Sony to fix it like SNClawson.)


I was devistated on that last return, but my wife was actually happy to have the old TV back. (27" Wega SD). I couldn't watch it and went into mourning for a period. She was happy with the old TV because we are addicted to the TiVo, and she hated having to watch HD content live. I put up with no HD TiVo it because I am amazed by the picture. (And I didn't have $800 to drop on the DirecTV HD TiVo.)


Anyhow, I'm about to get back into the fray, and buy another TV. I want to get a 960 again, but she was really smitten by the Samsung DLP models. (Mainly she wants a bigger TV that a 34".) They really do look great in the stores. But I did some research, and they only seem to display 720p. HD Flat panel of any sort is out of the question because of price (and my longevity concerns).


Did anyone else compare a DLP with their 960 before they bought it?


Any good insight?


I haven't seen anything come close to the 960 as far as sharpness and contrast range.


What is the concensus on DLP. I've heard stuff about "rainbow effect" that I'm not clean on what is meant by it.


Anyhow, if it is inappropriate for this thread, feel free to mock me. 


MW


----------



## kdb209




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by 56Oval_
> *Hello all,
> 
> 
> I hope I don't get in trouble by digressing on the thread, but it seems to have slowed down a bit lately, so maybe I'll throw something out.
> 
> 
> I bailed on the 960 (after being impatient and exchanging three of them) because of the "cold tuner" problem that some of us had at first. (I wasn't patient enough to get Sony to fix it like SNClawson.)
> 
> 
> I was devistated on that last return, but my wife was actually happy to have the old TV back. (27" Wega SD). I couldn't watch it and went into mourning for a period. She was happy with the old TV because we are addicted to the TiVo, and she hated having to watch HD content live. I put up with no HD TiVo it because I am amazed by the picture. (And I didn't have $800 to drop on the DirecTV HD TiVo.)
> 
> 
> Anyhow, I'm about to get back into the fray, and buy another TV. I want to get a 960 again, but she was really smitten by the Samsung DLP models. (Mainly she wants a bigger TV that a 34".) They really do look great in the stores. But I did some research, and they only seem to display 720p. HD Flat panel of any sort is out of the question because of price (and my longevity concerns).
> 
> 
> Did anyone else compare a DLP with their 960 before they bought it?
> 
> 
> Any good insight?
> 
> 
> I haven't seen anything come close to the 960 as far as sharpness and contrast range.
> 
> 
> What is the concensus on DLP. I've heard stuff about "rainbow effect" that I'm not clean on what is meant by it.
> 
> 
> Anyhow, if it is inappropriate for this thread, feel free to mock me.
> 
> 
> MW*



I'm in the opposite boat.


I have a Sammy 46" DLP (bought through the TVA Power Buy), but may have to

return it - the wife doesn;t like it and thinks it 's too big (whimper, whimper).

I'm now scoping out plan B (34" direct view - probably the 960 or the toshiba 34HFX84).

Plan C (a 42" plasma) is currently out of the budget.


I've compared the Sammy and the 960 in stores. SD (DirecTV) looks a bit better

on the 960. HD looks stunning on both, with a slight edge to the 960 (better blacks),

but its only 3/4 the size.


The other plusses of the Sammy - inputs: 1 DVI + 1HDMI + 1 VGA (for HTPC) vs a single

HDMI for the 960.


I plan on getting an HD DirecTivo, so the tuners in the 960 are not a big plus for me

(that is also why i'm considering the 34HFX84 for $600 less).


The rainbow effect is caused by the fact that the DLP set sequentially projects a

blue, followed by a red, fllowed by a green (a color wheel spinning at 10K RPM)

that your eye processes as the appropriate color mix. If you rapidly move your

eye, the sequence of red/green/blue for the same pixel hit your retina at different

locations, causing a multi color rainbow. I have not noticed any rainbows in normal

watching. If I work really hard and intentionally scan my eyes around real fast, I can

see some rainbows.


Some people seem to be sensitive to the rainbows and claim they notice them in

normal viewing, but it's not a real issue for me.


I have another week to convince the wife, but I think it's a lost cause. Our viewing

distance is about 6-8' so the 34" will still give an OK picture size.


I bought the Sammy online (TVA), but will probably buy the 960 at a B&M. The thought

of shipping a(and possibly shipping back) that 200lb monster is not something I want

to deal with. I have found a local store that will do at least 10% off MSRP on both

the 960 and 34HFX84.


----------



## rekalil

I intend to purchase a KD-34XBR960, but would like to reduce the possibility of receiving a defective set. as have others who have posted to this thread. The local CC has received today a new KD-34XBR960 with a serial number of SO1 9001XXXX. I interpret this serial number to mean that the set was manufactured in September, but would appreciate anyone letting me know whether I am making a mistake.

Thanks very much.

Sincerely,

Ron Kalil


----------



## beacher

I am interested in purchasing a 34xbr960 and have found that both Park Ave Electonics and Hot Buy Electronics offer these sets at abouy 30% off list price on their web sites. I would like to know if anyone has any experience dealing with these retailers and can tell me how reputable they are? Thanks in advance.


----------



## Yung




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by rekalil_
> *I intend to purchase a KD-34XBR960, but would like to reduce the possibility of receiving a defective set. as have others who have posted to this thread. The local CC has received today a new KD-34XBR960 with a serial number of SO1 9001XXXX. I interpret this serial number to mean that the set was manufactured in September, but would appreciate anyone letting me know whether I am making a mistake.
> 
> Thanks very much.
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> Ron Kalil*



An xbr960 with serial # in the 9001xxx range should probably be made in late August or September. Mine with serial# 8006xxx was mfg in August and I have had no tuner problems. There is very minor geometry near the top when watching SD, but I'm sure nothing that can't be adjusted.


----------



## jb2002

I just got an xbr960 with a 9000xxx serial, no geometry problems as far as I can see, everything is fine. got it from CC. if that helps..


----------



## smirnoffski

So has anyone tried recording HD from the integrated tuner using a DVHS deck connected a la firewire?


I am pondering getting a DVHS deck to record HD but will do so ONLY if the DVHS deck and the 960 interface through one convenient firewire connection.


So the will the deck record the 5.1 soundtracks and footage of HD broadcasts and playback the DVHS tapes all through ONE single firewire connection?


----------



## NorthJersey




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by jb2002_
> *I just got an xbr960 with a 9000xxx serial, no geometry problems as far as I can see, everything is fine. got it from CC. if that helps..*



which CC in NJ ?


----------



## JimDaddy

Clearedge VM...I know the videophiles state this should be set to "off" for HD.....What is the general concensus on this?? I feel the HD looks better with it on....I would appreciate some insight..


----------



## 56Oval




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by smirnoffski_
> *So has anyone tried recording HD from the integrated tuner using a DVHS deck connected a la firewire?
> 
> 
> I am pondering getting a DVHS deck to record HD but will do so ONLY if the DVHS deck and the 960 interface through one convenient firewire connection.
> 
> 
> So the will the deck record the 5.1 soundtracks and footage of HD broadcasts and playback the DVHS tapes all through ONE single firewire connection?*



I'm curious too if anyone has hooked up a recording device (DVHS or otherwise) to the 960 via firewire, and any results.


----------



## jb2002




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by NorthJersey_
> *which CC in NJ ?*



no, CC in the internet, I ordered it on Oct 1st...got it delivered the following thurdsday....I simply placed the order on their Web site..they had it in stock....Oct 1st.


----------



## jmatotek

34xbr960 settings??

Would anyone that has picture, brightness, etc. set up pretty decent on their tv, mind telling me what settings you have it for HD, SD? I've been playing around with it for about 2 weeks. I've got the Digital Video Essentials CD, but right now I'm not sure how to, or brave enough to go into the service mode.

Thanks

John


----------



## BTV Mark

Anyone wish to share their experiences/recommendations for a DVD player? I have an older Sony, and use the SD component cables. I was thinking about upgrading to a progressive-scan type. Does 480p provide a significant picture improvement over 480i?


The next step, of course, would be to a HDMI-equipped DVD player. Again, would this provide any significant improvement over a 480p unit?


Finally, I am leaning towards buying a 480 p DVD/VCR combination unit. (DVD player and VCR recorder.) Any recommendations or horror stories?


TIA


Mark


----------



## silvertone

 http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/cgi-b...h&articles=120 


Enjoy !


----------



## BTV Mark

Thanks, silvertone! Lots of good information!


Mark


----------



## BTV Mark

Thanks, silvertone! Lots of good information!


Mark


----------



## Ppuno

I had my set ISF calibrated. The user control settings I now use for HD and DVD are 43 picture, 34 color, 33 brightness, all sharpness controls off. I modify these for the different programs and DVD's maybe 1 or 2 clicks either way.


----------



## tennberg

Question for all 960 owners:


How are you connecting your DVD player to the back of the 960? My current DVD player, the Denon DVD-2910, has composite video out, S-video out, component video out, DVI out, and HDMI out. I currently use component video out. I've been told this is best since the set is analog, I will not get any improvements from DVI or HDMI, which I am inclined to agree with.


If anyone out there has moved to DVI->HDMI or HDMI->HDMI over component for their DVD player *and* noticed an improvement in the 960's picture quality, please post your comments. I'm curious to hear.


----------



## juandixon

i don't understand how you can conclude component is better than hdmi on the 960 and that the 960 is an analog set?! With both digital and analog inputs, its both.


You will get degradation on the component since its analog not with hdmi. With component/analog you will need very expensive monster-like cables to prevent signal degration. With hdmi/digital any piece of **** cable will work since its only passing 0s and 1s.


Also pq depends greatly on the dvd player and dvd itself, on what type of quality you get with hdmi and components.


Yes the difference/improvements may be slight(again this depends on dvd player,dvd, and 960 calibration even), but hdmi on the 960 set is what you wanna use if you can use it IMO.


----------



## silvertone




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by tennberg_
> *Question for all 960 owners:
> 
> 
> I've been told this is best since the set is analog, I will not get any improvements from DVI or HDMI, which I am inclined to agree with.
> 
> 
> If anyone out there has moved to DVI->HDMI or HDMI->HDMI over component for their DVD player and noticed an improvement in the 960's picture quality, please post your comments. I'm curious to hear.*



Well, the answer to that is that it depends. Depends on which piece of equipement does a better job on the DA conversion. I had my Sony HD directv reciever hooked up through the component inputs initially then switched to HDMI. I really couldn't tell the difference on SD signals, but HD signals appeared slightly sharper and brighter to me, but then again this could be the placebo effect. Without having two sets side by side, one component one HDMI, and looking at the same exact material I can't be sure. After all, this screen is rather small, so any benefits from either of these it's probably neglegible.


----------



## BTV Mark

To break down the question some more, is there any difference with the video signal using DVI vs. HDMI? I thought they were the same, except that HDMI also carries audio and copy-protection.


Mark


----------



## silvertone




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by juandixon_
> *i don't understand how you can conclude component is better than hdmi on the 960 and that the 960 is an analog set?! With both digital and analog inputs, its both.*
> 
> 
> The 960 is an analog display set, not a digital one (eg. LCD, DLP). It has a built in Video DAC, that it's used when a digital stream is fed to it via the HDMI input.
> 
> 
> 
> *You will get degradation on the component since its analog not with hdmi. With component/analog you will need very expensive monster-like cables to prevent signal degration.*
> 
> 
> Not neccesarily the case, it depends on which piece of equipement in the chain does a better job converting the digital signal to analog.
> 
> *With hdmi/digital any piece of **** cable will work since its only passing 0s and 1s.*
> 
> 
> For short runs of cables I would agree with this. But HDMI/DVI is very sensitive to long runs of cables (say more than 6'). If you have a poor quality cable you might introduce timing problems (jitter) and this could cause noticeable signal degradation. There are a few cable companies out there with proprietary technology addressing this issue.
> 
> *Also pq depends greatly on the dvd player and dvd itself, on what type of quality you get with hdmi and components.
> 
> 
> Yes the difference/improvements may be slight(again this depends on dvd player,dvd, and 960 calibration even), but hdmi on the 960 set is what you wanna use if you can use it IMO.*


N


----------



## silvertone




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by BTV Mark_
> *To break down the question some more, is there any difference with the video signal using DVI vs. HDMI? I thought they were the same, except that HDMI also carries audio and copy-protection.
> 
> 
> Mark*



There's no difference. Both specs are identical when it comes to video. By the way, DVI also is HDCP compatible.


----------



## juandixon

*The 960 is an analog display set, not a digital one (eg. LCD, DLP). It has a built in Video DAC, that it's used when a digital stream is fed to it via the HDMI input.*


nope the 960 is a digital set with an analog tuner. crts can be digital too. all our crt computer moniters are digi sets. when it gets a analog signal it has to use its dac to convert it BACK to digital.


*Not neccesarily the case, it depends on which piece of equipement in the chain does a better job converting the digital signal to analog.*


ur wrong here since ur assuming the 960 is an analog set.


*For short runs of cables I would agree with this. But HDMI/DVI is very sensitive to long runs of cables (say more than 6'). If you have a poor quality cable you might introduce timing problems (jitter) and this could cause noticeable signal degradation. There are a few cable companies out there with proprietary technology addressing this issue.*


cmon this is really a non issue, cheap hdmi cables work fine, yes i know the limitations on distance but that affects analog cables also.


in any case digital(hdmi) > analog(component) in the 960's case.


----------



## silvertone




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by juandixon_
> *The 960 is an analog display set, not a digital one (eg. LCD, DLP). It has a built in Video DAC, that it's used when a digital stream is fed to it via the HDMI input.
> 
> 
> nope the 960 is a digital set with an analog tuner. crts can be digital too. all our crt computer moniters are digi sets. when it gets a analog signal it has to use its dac to convert it BACK to digital.
> 
> 
> 
> Not neccesarily the case, it depends on which piece of equipement in the chain does a better job converting the digital signal to analog.
> 
> 
> ur wrong here since ur assuming the 960 is an analog set.
> 
> 
> 
> For short runs of cables I would agree with this. But HDMI/DVI is very sensitive to long runs of cables (say more than 6'). If you have a poor quality cable you might introduce timing problems (jitter) and this could cause noticeable signal degradation. There are a few cable companies out there with proprietary technology addressing this issue.
> 
> 
> cmon this is really a non issue, cheap hdmi cables work fine, yes i know the limitations on distance but that affects analog cables also.
> 
> 
> in any case digital(hdmi) > analog(component) in the 960's case.*




Let's see. I'll be nice enough to refer you to Sony itself, call their 1-800 CS number and ask them the same question if their display is analog or digital, and make sure you post the answer here when they tell you this is an analog display.

*cmon this is really a non issue, cheap hdmi cables work fine, yes i know the limitations on distance but that affects analog cables also.


in any case digital(hdmi) > analog(component) in the 960's case.*



Obviously, you do not understand. You are aware of the distance limitations of analog cables dealing with jitter?? (LOL) Since when analog cables carry digital signals ?? You are amusing me.


----------



## Dolfo




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by juandixon_
> *nope the 960 is a digital set with an analog tuner. crts can be digital too. all our crt computer moniters are digi sets. when it gets a analog signal it has to use its dac to convert it BACK to digital.*



How do you figure? I mean, sure this set contains some digital circuitry and accepts a digital video input, but the display electronics are most definitely analog. A digital display would imply that the display has been divided into a fixed number of discreet pixels which are "energized" individually. The picture is drawn on the screen by "energizing" all individual pixels appropriately. Examples of this are LCD and DLP displays. An analog display "draws" the image on the screen line by line from top to bottom.


What makes you call this a digital display? Calling a set analog or digital refers to how the image is projected onto the screen and not to what inputs the set accepts.


----------



## southpark

You two should agree on the definition of "digital set" first.










I guess by "digital set", silvertone was referring to "fixed-pixel display", such as LCD, LCD projection, DLP, plasma, etc, while juan was talking about sets that can tune to digital channels.


Both are self-consistent.


One thing worth to mention is that even for fixed-pixel displays, the fixed part is only the spatial resolution. They still have to use D-A converters for the RGB values.


----------



## Dolfo




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by southpark_
> *You two should agree on the definition of "digital set" first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess by "digital set", silvertone was referring to "fixed-pixel display", such as LCD, LCD projection, DLP, plasma, etc, while juan was talking about sets that can tune to digital channels.
> 
> 
> Both are self-consistent.
> 
> 
> One thing worth to mention is that even for fixed-pixel displays, the fixed part is only the spatial resolution. They still have to use D-A converters for the RGB values.*



Absolutely correct.


----------



## spongebob




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by juandixon_
> 
> the 960 is an analog set?! With both digital and analog inputs, its both.
> 
> 
> With component/analog you will need very expensive monster-like cables to prevent signal degration.



Who says so? Purchasers of expensive cables? Sellers of expensive cable?


I say do a double blind test before posting such nonsense










bob


----------



## juandixon




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by spongebob_
> *Who says so? Purchasers of expensive cables? Sellers of expensive cable?
> 
> 
> I say do a double blind test before posting such nonsense
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> bob*




my point here is to show the discrepancy between a digital and analog cable. personally i don't buy expensive cables especially for digital signals. analogs however can be improved with better shielding, conducitivy etc.


an example you don't see monster making gold plated cat5 cables? NO there is no market and no need to. the SIGNAL IS DIGITAL


----------



## tennberg

I didn't intend to start a war here  I was just asking for people's experiences with using both component and DVI or HDMI cables from their DVD player to a 960 set.


Since my DVD-2910 is connected to the 960 via component, the player is doing all the D/A conversion. If I were to connect it via HDMI, then the 960 would be doing all the D/A conversion. Am I wrong on this? I'm going out on a limb and guessing that the DVD-2910's D/A convertors are better than those in the 960.


Any people firsthand noticed an improvement or decline in their picture quality when switching between component and DVI/HDMI ona 960? Thanks!


----------



## loganhound

Has anyone had any trouble when connecting a DVD player with a DVI output to the 960's HDMI input via a DVI-HDMI cable and analog audio?


----------



## jimg




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by smirnoffski_
> *So has anyone tried recording HD from the integrated tuner using a DVHS deck connected a la firewire?
> 
> 
> I am pondering getting a DVHS deck to record HD but will do so ONLY if the DVHS deck and the 960 interface through one convenient firewire connection.
> 
> 
> So the will the deck record the 5.1 soundtracks and footage of HD broadcasts and playback the DVHS tapes all through ONE single firewire connection?*



The 960's firewire interface works fine and the firewire menu fairly straightforward. I've tested with both with the "oldie but goodie" Panasonic PV-HD1000" as well as the JVC 30000U.


1) tune to digital TV channel

2) bring up firewire menu

3) press the record button

4) go to full screen


To play back: go to firewire menu, and use the 960's remote to "press" the on-screen control buttons. (Alternatively you could go to firewire menu and press play/ff/rewind/etc. on the DVHS remote.)


Notes: Only when you are tuned to a digital channel does the 960 output on the firewire. (It will not digitize/convert any signals from any other ports, although it will act as a firewire hub if you have other firewire devices connected.)


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by jimg_
> *The 960's firewire interface works fine and the firewire menu fairly straightforward. I've tested with both with the "oldie but goodie" Panasonic PV-HD1000" as well as the JVC 30000U.
> 
> 
> 1) tune to digital TV channel
> 
> 2) bring up firewire menu
> 
> 3) press the record button
> 
> 4) go to full screen
> 
> 
> To play back: go to firewire menu, and use the 960's remote to "press" the on-screen control buttons. (Alternatively you could go to firewire menu and press play/ff/rewind/etc. on the DVHS remote.)
> 
> 
> Notes: Only when you are tuned to a digital channel does the 960 output on the firewire. (It will not digitize/convert any signals from any other ports, although it will act as a firewire hub if you have other firewire devices connected.)*




This is great news!! Now, let's see more HD recorders! Perhaps this is why there's only one HDMI port on the '960.


----------



## smirnoffski




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by jimg_
> *The 960's firewire interface works fine and the firewire menu fairly straightforward. I've tested with both with the "oldie but goodie" Panasonic PV-HD1000" as well as the JVC 30000U.
> 
> 
> 1) tune to digital TV channel
> 
> 2) bring up firewire menu
> 
> 3) press the record button
> 
> 4) go to full screen
> 
> 
> To play back: go to firewire menu, and use the 960's remote to "press" the on-screen control buttons. (Alternatively you could go to firewire menu and press play/ff/rewind/etc. on the DVHS remote.)
> 
> 
> Notes: Only when you are tuned to a digital channel does the 960 output on the firewire. (It will not digitize/convert any signals from any other ports, although it will act as a firewire hub if you have other firewire devices connected.)*



Yessss! Very glad to hear this. Now does it also record 5.1 soundtracks through the firewire also?


Can you record to the DVHS deck while you watch another channel?

Is timer recording possible for HD through firewire?

I'm new to the recording scene, so any info will be greatly apprectiated!



Also, How does the playback quality through firewire compare to component?

It should be better correct?

For those of you with the new 5U machine, how would the firewire playback compare to HDMI?



Thanks much


----------



## bsd107




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Phantastica_
> *Here's the HTPC lowdown (this is getting a little off topic):
> 
> 
> Hardware:
> 
> 
> - ATI DVI/Component adapter
> *



It looks like you are connecting to the XBR960 through component inputs. Is there a reason that you didn't use a HMDI-DVI cable? I would assume that the picture quality would be even better using a digital (DVI) connection...


----------



## jimg




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by smirnoffski_
> *Yessss! Very glad to hear this. Now does it also record 5.1 soundtracks through the firewire also?
> 
> 
> Can you record to the DVHS deck while you watch another channel?
> 
> Is timer recording possible for HD through firewire?
> 
> I'm new to the recording scene, so any info will be greatly apprectiated!
> 
> 
> 
> Also, How does the playback quality through firewire compare to component?
> 
> It should be better correct?
> 
> For those of you with the new 5U machine, how would the firewire playback compare to HDMI?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks much*



It records whatever is in the MPEG stream... if the program contains 5.1, it will record them.


Sorry, it only records the channel you are watching (i.e. doesn't have dual digital tuners [or supporting circuitry]). Besides that, it's limited when doing Picture-In-Picture. I'm disappointed the 960's PIP (aka "Twin View") can only do analog SD on the "right side". No HD side-by-side like my Panasonic CT34WX50.


The 960's timers just turn on the TV and select the channel, they can't issue the firewire "record" commands. (Best to use a "smart remote" that can do macro sequences. Will need to: turn on the 960 & DVHS, set the channel, then enable the firewire, start the DVHS recording, wait the specified number of minutes, stop the recording, and power-off the DVHS. [See the Samsung SIR-T165 Thread in the HDTV Recorders section, as that was needed as a workaround to the 165's timer problems.])


Doing firewire (iLink) recordings is really the same as other "external device" VCR recordings -- (i.e. can't use the VCR's internal tuner or timer). The digital nature is transparent.

Firewire does have a "deluxe" control feature since the protocol allows for VCR control commands and status. (Which some STB can utilize for timer recordings.)


Playback quality depends mostly on the MPEG decoder (i.e. The 960's if using firewire, or the DVHS's if using component.) The short run of analog component cables is trivial considering the loss of picture quality that occured when the content was originally digitally encoded. Another "resolution leak" comes because the 960's horizontal resolution is about 1400, not 1920.


Note: The similar argument goes for HDMI vs. firewire... i.e. which MPEG decoder is best.


----------



## Mike3

The ATI component device apparently makes connecting a computer easier. As I don't have one I can't say for certain, but I can tell you that connecting via HDMI or DVI or both in the case of the 960 is difficult. You are likely to need a third-party application like powerstrip to make the computer's resolution match the tv's screen.


----------



## Mr. Tracy




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by jimg_
> *It records whatever is in the MPEG stream... if the program contains 5.1, it will record them.
> 
> 
> 
> The 960's timers just turn on the TV and select the channel, they can't issue the firewire "record" commands. (Best to use a "smart remote" that can do macro sequences. Will need to: turn on the 960 & DVHS, set the channel, then enable the firewire, start the DVHS recording...
> 
> 
> Doing firewire (iLink) recordings is really the same as other "external device" VCR recordings -- (i.e. can't use the VCR's internal tuner or timer). The digital nature is transparent.
> 
> Firewire does have a "deluxe" control feature since the protocol allows for VCR control commands and status. (Which some STB can utilize for timer recordings.)*



Does this mean that if the 960 is programmed to come on at a certain time, to a digital channel, that it's IEEE port won't automatically output a signal, and a digital recording device (DVHS or otherwise) can't be seperately programmed to come on a record from it's own IEEE input?


If this is so, then it would seem that the IEEE isn't quite as usefull as it would first appear. What's the point in being able to tape from the IEEE if you: A) can't watch another channel at the same time, B) have to basically be there to set up the recording, C) Have to worry that the "Smart Remote" is pointing at the set as your rushing out the door to catch the bus or whatever?


Maybe the KD34XS955 isn't so bad afterall.


My understanding of the main differences betweewn the 955 and the 960 are: full DRC controll on the 960 (955 only has three settings), and no IEEE on the 955.


If the IEEE is not transparrant, is the 960 worth the extra $200 over the 955 (i.e. how important is the full DRC)?


----------



## smirnoffski




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Mr. Tracy_
> *Does this mean that if the 960 is programmed to come on at a certain time, to a digital channel, that it's IEEE port won't automatically output a signal, and a digital recording device (DVHS or otherwise) can't be seperately programmed to come on a record from it's own IEEE input?
> 
> 
> If this is so, then it would seem that the IEEE isn't quite as usefull as it would first appear. What's the point in being able to tape from the IEEE if you: A) can't watch another channel at the same time, B) have to basically be there to set up the recording, C) Have to worry that the "Smart Remote" is pointing at the set as your rushing out the door to catch the bus or whatever?
> 
> 
> Maybe the KD34XS955 isn't so bad afterall.
> 
> 
> My understanding of the main differences betweewn the 955 and the 960 are: full DRC controll on the 960 (955 only has three settings), and no IEEE on the 955.
> 
> 
> If the IEEE is not transparrant, is the 960 worth the extra $200 over the 955 (i.e. how important is the full DRC)?*



Well, the 960 has a firewire standby mode, so I am assuming with that turned on, the stream is output to the DVHS deck when the TV's timer turns on. Can jimg or anyone else please confirm this?


I notice now that a smart remote with timer macros is imperative as the two timers in the set alone will not be sufficient if one wants to record different shows.


keep the info coming folks, this is very helpful.


----------



## jimg




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Mr. Tracy_
> *Does this mean that if the 960 is programmed to come on at a certain time, to a digital channel, that it's IEEE port won't automatically output a signal, and a digital recording device (DVHS or otherwise) can't be seperately programmed to come on a record from it's own IEEE input?
> 
> *



I'll check tonight what is output on the firewire when a 960 timer fires. (And try to find a way for the 960 to do timer recordings.)


However note that the Panny PVHD1000, the JVC 30000 or the JVC 40000 have timers for firewire-- they expect the firewire source to control them. [Needed, yes. Provided, no. Sad lesson learned with Samsung T165's infamous timer problems].



> Quote:
> *
> 
> If this is so, then it would seem that the IEEE isn't quite as usefull as it would first appear. What's the point in being able to tape from the IEEE if you: A) can't watch another channel at the same time, B) have to basically be there to set up the recording, C) Have to worry that the "Smart Remote" is pointing at the set as your rushing out the door to catch the bus or whatever?
> *



The reason you can't watch another channel is a design decision: only 1 digital tuner. (Probably done to compete, pricewise.)

Another design decision was only HD on the "left side" of "Twin View" so even with an external HD source, it can't do side-by-side HD (like my 3 year old, Panny CT34WX50.)


The "being there" is the issue-at-hand! (We do want a way to do unattended firewire taping without buying an external HD tuner with firewire.)


As for the smart "remote," don't think of it as an ordinary remote to be left haphazardly on the coffee table -- make a designate place for it. (e.g. my Pronto has its recharging cradle, the Radio Shack VCR Programmer, its "home" in an open-fronted, open-topped, 3 sided tray left over from a old calculator.)

Sorry, we're not quite out of the "early-adopter" stage so standard "fit & functionality" for HD recording is still evolving.


----------



## Mr. Tracy




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by smirnoffski_
> *Well, the 960 has a firewire standby mode, so I am assuming with that turned on, the stream is output to the DVHS deck when the TV's timer turns on. Can jimg or anyone else please confirm this?
> 
> 
> I notice now that a smart remote with timer macros is imperative as the two timers in the set alone will not be sufficient if one wants to record different shows.
> 
> 
> keep the info coming folks, this is very helpful.*



Looking at the manual--pg.91--"Notes on i.LINK: *The TV can act as an i.LINK repeater, so that i.LINK signals can be relayed to another device even when the TV is powered off. To enable this feature, set the i.LINK Standby option to On..." so it would appear that the Standby mode only allows signals from other devices to flow through the XBR960. Then, on pg. 106 Âi.LINK Standby: On Allows the i.LINK signal to pass through to connected i.LINK devices even when the TV is turned off. ÂÂ


Signals that can Âpass throughÂ the set wouldn't seem to include signals emanating from the set--turner signals from the 960--so a smart remote would be required (I'm still not clear)?


I don't have one of these sets (yet), but I'm trying to decide between the XBR960 and the XS955, if the 960 does need help to i.LINK automatically, then maybe it's not so "state-of-the-art" after all (maybe the 970, or what ever they'll call the 960's replacement, will be smarter in this regard).


Does anyone see the advantage of having an IEEE connection that works this way (needs a smart remote to setup preprogrammed recording)? What would I be missing by stepping down to the XS955 (vis-Ã*-vis customizable DRC settings)?


Thanks for any furthe insight.


----------



## Mr. Tracy




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by jimg_
> *I'll check tonight what is output on the firewire when a 960 timer fires. (And try to find a way for the 960 to do timer recordings.)...*



Thanks, looks like you posted while I was thinking.


----------



## jimg




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Mr. Tracy_
> *What would I be missing by stepping down to the XS955 (vis-Ã*-vis customizable DRC settings)?
> *



To me, the XBR family (since they are the "flagships") tends to have some of the extra "bells and whistles", but also better quality -- especially more-stable power supplies.



Using the "compare" function on the Sony website (in the resultint table as well as under "more-info"), it seems the 960 adds:


iLink (firewire)

Better DRC

Twin-View (i.e. side-by-side "Picture-in-picture"; [caveat:HD only on left side])

Scrolling channel index

Better warranty (esp. labor)



If I remember, I'll check the service manual and see what differences there are in the components between the two.


----------



## jimg

Just tested...


Test set-up:

I have the 960 connected via firewire to a JVC 30K and the JVC 30K connected via component cables to a Panasonic HDTV monitor.


"normal case":

When tuned to a HD channel, the 960 sends it out firewire. (i.e. I can select the 960's firewire number on the JVC 30K, and it is displayed on the Panasonic HDTV.)



"timer case":

With the timer set to a HD channel and the timer fires, the 960 turns on, tunes the channel and data is sent out the firewire. It does not start the recorder. (And as mentioned before the JVC 30K does not have timer capability for firewire.)


Interesting side-effect: with the 960 "iLink Standby" OFF, when the set is powered off, the JVC 30K's Firewire switched to the firewire channel of a different firewire device. When the 960 timer fired, the JVC 30K stayed on the alternate device. (No problem if the 960 is the only device -- the JVC 30K will "seek to it" when the 960 timer fires. Also no problem if the "iLink Standby" is set to ON, as the 960 doesn't un-couple.)


===

So looks like an external timer is needed. But sorry, since only one HD tuner, you can't watch one HD while recording another.


--


A quick check of the service manual shows the 960 has an extra module or two and some different internal settings (I suspect DRC related.)

Also the service module goes into detail on the wiring of the subwoofer and front speakers, that isn't shown for the 955. Hmmm... Does the 955 have a subwoofer? and possibly different front speakers?


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by loganhound_
> *Has anyone had any trouble when connecting a DVD player with a DVI output to the 960's HDMI input via a DVI-HDMI cable and analog audio?*



No trouble to report, but an interesting side-comment:


When I got the '960, I was able to view via component video (480i) for the first time on my older Sony DVD player. What an improvement over S-video! I decided to go with something even better.


I recently bought a Denon 1910 DVD player, and I got my DVI-HDMI cable yesterday. I wanted to see two "step improvements" in picture quality that I couldn't do with the older player: First, the move to 480p, and then the upgrade to DVI.


Well...so far, I'm pretty disappointed. I see more noise in the picture with 480p, and less clarity using the HDMI input. (I didn't change any brightness/contrast/sharpness settings.) So my preliminary conclusion is it's more important to use a quality DVD player than to necessarily have the "best" outputs. I presume the circuitry in the '960 does a better job than the circuitry in the 1910. But to be fair, this was a quick review, and the 1910 is an inexpensive player. I'll do more comparisons over the next few days and report back later.


Mark


----------



## Mr. Tracy




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by jimg_
> *Just tested...
> 
> ...
> 
> ===
> 
> So looks like an external timer is needed. But sorry, since only one HD tuner, you can't watch one HD while recording another.
> 
> 
> --
> 
> 
> A quick check of the service manual ...
> 
> Also the service module goes into detail on the wiring of the subwoofer and front speakers, that isn't shown for the 955. Hmmm... Does the 955 have a subwoofer? and possibly different front speakers?*



Thanks a lot, very thorough.


As for the Sub, both models are listed in thier user manuals as having "7.5W x 2 + 15W subwoofer".


A couple more questions if you don't mind. Do you see using your Pronto to automatically coordinate IEEE timer recording as a drawback? How important do you foresee being able to use the 960's tuner to tape HD via i.LINK both manually and by timer (I guess that's three questions)?


Thanks for all the info, it's nice to vicariously drive befoie I buy.


----------



## jimg




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Mr. Tracy_
> *Thanks a lot, very thorough.
> 
> 
> As for the Sub, both models are listed in thier user manuals as having "7.5W x 2 + 15W subwoofer".*



That's what's strange.... the manual lists it for all, yet the pictures for setting the wiring harness only address the subwoofer for the 960. If you're in a position to "test drive" a 955, give it a listen -- let itl tell you if it has a subwoofer.




> Quote:
> *
> 
> A couple more questions if you don't mind. Do you see using your Pronto to automatically coordinate IEEE timer recording as a drawback? How important do you foresee being able to use the 960's tuner to tape HD via i.LINK both manually and by timer (I guess that's three questions)?
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the info, it's nice to vicariously drive befoie I buy.*



Using an external timer won't be that bad since the 960 isn't my primary off-air recording tuner. (I often use a Samsung SIR-T165 for timeshifting to DVHS.)


Now if I only had the 960 to record from, it would come to a question of what I really wanted to save to tape. [When you first get a HD recorder, you record several programs, then you get selective; also a certain amount of recording is time-shifting -- either because you are out or because there are 2 good programs on at the same time.] It would be a little painful, given that I'm used to multiple tuners.


However, I can see the "record manually" mode as an equivalent to the DVR's "pause live feed" function [except you can't do any trick plays when it is recording.] If you think you're going to want the extra trick play capability while recording, plan to spend $800+ for the HD hard disk DVRs that are hitting the market.


----------



## Mr. Tracy




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by jimg_
> *...Now if I only had the 960 to record from, it would come to a question of what I really wanted to save to tape. ....*



Again, thanks for the info.


My dilemma is that I'm in Canada where the 960 isn't available, while the 955 is. Not a real problem as I am close enough to the border to be able to drive over and get the 960, only that if anything ever went wrong I'd have to drive it back to the States to get any warranty service. As the 955 is available in Canada, I'd get hassle free warranty.


Second, even though I'm close to the border, I won't be able to get much (if any) OTA HDTV (poor location), and the local cable company only offers about six HDTV channels, so not much use to record via the i.LINK.


I'm looking at this set to be the main set (DVD movies and SD digital cable) for the next 4-5 years at which time I'd upgrade to the next state-of-the-art display and move the 960/955 into the bedroom or den as a secondary set (there'd be more HDTV available then, and the IEEE timer recording would have evolved considerably by then too).


So why go for the 960 over the 955? Well, I could get the 960+stand for the same price--about $15US less--as the 955+stand after all taxes are taken into account (at my door in Canada), so price is not a factor.


My (internal ) struggle is: go for the more features on the 960 (that I won't be using except for full DRC control) but with 3+ hour round trip to get warranty repair, or get the "lesser" 955 with local warranty but restricted DRC control (I don't care about the twin view one way or the other).


So, as you can see, now that I know about the IEEE record logic, the most important thing to me now is how often/important is the use of the more flexible DRC control on the 960, especially on SD digital cable?


I also like the look of the 960 better, but that's not rationale!!!


----------



## ajhoop

Hi everybody. Just found this site (tons of great stuff here!) and this is my first post...sorry if it's been asked or is in the wrong thread...


I'm very interested in this TV. I'm wondering if there is any way to hook up a 1st generation Tivo while using a cable card. I know I can't tivo HD programming, but I'm not sure whether this will work at all.


Right now I've got a digital cable box running into the tivo then running into an older 27" tv.


Thanks in advance.


----------



## juandixon




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by ajhoop_
> *Hi everybody. Just found this site (tons of great stuff here!) and this is my first post...sorry if it's been asked or is in the wrong thread...
> 
> 
> I'm very interested in this TV. I'm wondering if there is any way to hook up a 1st generation Tivo while using a cable card. I know I can't tivo HD programming, but I'm not sure whether this will work at all.
> 
> 
> Right now I've got a digital cable box running into the tivo then running into an older 27" tv.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.*




cable line ---splitter --- digital cable box --- tivo ---svideo ---960

cable line ---splitter ----cable card (960)

cable line ---splitter ----cable (coaxial input 960)

antenna -----------------ant (vhf,uhf input 960)


assuming you use both the stb and cable card. i am not sure if the cable card cancels out the cable input.


----------



## BloatedCorpse

...finally got my original 960 replaced. The new one has an oct 04 manufacture date. First off, the screen seems to have a different type of sheen to it. Perhaps a different type of anti-reflective finish? The geometry, while not perfect, is much closer to my expectations than the 1st set. The overall geometry in the corners is about 50% better. The new set does not exhibit any of the dark shadowing along the left and right sides the first set had, but to be fair I only noticed this darkening after a little bit of use. The new set only required tilt correction +1 as opposed to +3 in the old one. The focus is also tighter along the sides, this I check easily with the on-screen loading indicator for the memory stick. It's only been 12 hours...but maybe I finally got a tv from sony that won't drive me nuts......nah.....lol


----------



## Hiloboy

Is that "sheen" you speak of kinda purplish looking? I noticed when my set is off the screen looks sort of purplish-- kinda cool.


----------



## BloatedCorpse

..yup...kinda purply is a good description...this wasn't the case with the first one...weird..and after watching it more today...the colors are different. I made sure and recorded all my settings from the original..maybe it's just an individual variance...but maybe the factory or service menu settings default values have changed since the initial production run.


----------



## kip r




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by loganhound_
> *Has anyone had any trouble when connecting a DVD player with a DVI output to the 960's HDMI input via a DVI-HDMI cable and analog audio?*



This may be an obvious question, but I'm connecting a DVR, from Comcast, to a new 960 (HDMI input) and there is only a DVI connection on the DVR.

The question is, is it difficult to find an adapter and is it very expensive?

thanks

kr


----------



## BloatedCorpse

..I also have a comcast dvr, the moto 6208, and it's hooked by a dvi/hdmi cable to my 960. That's the type of cable you need. You can find them fairly cheaply at various on-line vendors. You don't need an adapter, the cable itself has a dvi doohicky on one end and a much smaller hdmi thingymabob on the other end. The picture quality looks somewhat better in my dumbass opinion compared to component. Hope this helps with your q.


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by BloatedCorpse_
> *...finally got my original 960 replaced. The new one has an oct 04 manufacture date. First off, the screen seems to have a different type of sheen to it. Perhaps a different type of anti-reflective finish? The geometry, while not perfect, is much closer to my expectations than the 1st set. The overall geometry in the corners is about 50% better. The new set does not exhibit any of the dark shadowing along the left and right sides the first set had, but to be fair I only noticed this darkening after a little bit of use. The new set only required tilt correction +1 as opposed to +3 in the old one. The focus is also tighter along the sides, this I check easily with the on-screen loading indicator for the memory stick. It's only been 12 hours...but maybe I finally got a tv from sony that won't drive me nuts......nah.....lol*



BC:


I too got my 960 replaced today from Tweeter. The old one (serial number 80058xx, manuf. August 2004) was boxed up by their delivery guys and a new one (serial number 80080xx, manuf. September 2004) was put on my stand.


The old one had developed a black dead spot a bit larger than 1 millimeter square near the center of the set.


The new one seems to have *much* better geometry, especially when watching 4:3 material with black bars on the sides. On the old set, the bars were of uneven width and were not parallel to each other. On this new set, the bars are of even width and are practically parallel. I will continue to watch it over the weekend to see if there are any other improvements. As I use Comcast cable with their DVR box, I have no idea if the tuner is improved at all.


----------



## BloatedCorpse

..I concur with the 4:3..watched some tonight and no curving along the left side...nice to see they must have tightened up production. Did you notice any other changes besides geometry..such as color differences?


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by BloatedCorpse_
> *..I concur with the 4:3..watched some tonight and no curving along the left side...nice to see they must have tightened up production. Did you notice any other changes besides geometry..such as color differences?*



BC:


As for color, the set seems to reproduce color to the same level/degree the previous set did.


As for geometry, this set doesn't seem to have pincushion bowing (the top of the screen bowing down, the bottom bowing up) to the great degree the previous 960 did.


As for other changes, I haven't noticed any yet, though I've only had the set for a little over 24 hours. I will defintely notice more watching tonight's World Series game. Go Sox!


----------



## mikeny

My set's geometry has always been curiously off only when gray bars are present. They bow in at the bottom and away at the top. Would that be a normal geometric inconsistency? I could switch to another digital channel with upconverted programming and the black bars on the side will be completely straight.


I wonder if it's a problem from CBS-DT or my set's.


Any comments?


----------



## Marshall F

Hello,


I'm looking for the dimensions of the screen. Can anyone tell me the height and width of the screen? None of the specs on Sony or other sites seem to be giving this info.


Overall, it seems most folks rave about this set. My concern is the room in which it's being placed. Viewing distance is 10-13 feet back, and I'm worried the screen may be on the small side. I guess the other opton is the 42" wega, but it's LCD, and I just haven't taken to the look of it.


I didn't read thru all of the pages... are there any issues with prolongd viewing of 4:3 material and any burn issues?


Also, where are most of you encountering favorable pricing?


Thanks!


Marshall


----------



## jimg




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by kip r_
> *This may be an obvious question, but I'm connecting a DVR, from Comcast, to a new 960 (HDMI input) and there is only a DVI connection on the DVR.
> 
> The question is, is it difficult to find an adapter and is it very expensive?
> 
> thanks
> 
> kr*



Adapters probably too fragile and will put too much strain on the connector -- best to use a cable.

For my Dish 921 DVR, I used a DVI to HDMI cable from www.PacificCable.com and it's been working great. Check which type of DVI you have as there are a couple variants. Also since DVI doesn't contain audio, plan to also have separate audio cables... analog to the 960, and if necessary, digital to your amp. (Note: because the 960 has a reasonable subwoofer and better sound than expected, I only turn on the amp for special movies/shows, etc.)


----------



## SonyR

30 inches across, 17 1/8 inches height.

My viewing sofa is 10 feet from the screen. Quite adequate. These size screens always seem smaller in the big showrooms, especially with all the large projector, plasmas, etc nearby.

Why I got this: when buying a new washer at Sears took my wife over to the big screen rear projection tvs. She hated them. Said all of them looked washed out & not sharp. Our old Mitsubishi direct view looked better.

The 960 ended up being a good compromise in terms of size, price, and certainly picture. Simply absolutely amazing picture from all sources (of course your mileage may vary depending on your source quality). Pure whites and deepest blacks. My south facing viewing room has large glass french doors with only lace type curtains and still the picture is great.

No worries about screen burn ins at all, especially with games that my kids play (which look incredible too). So many inputs. Was surprised that my Sony camcorder plugs right in via the firewire.

The hi-def Olympics were great to watch as are the present world series (even without the Dodgers).

Am using a old Toshiba DVD player via the component hook ups. No progressive scan with the DVD player. But the picture is just outstanding anyway. Plan on getting a newer "hi-def" DVD player to hook up via HDMI.

The tricky part was finding the right stand to set the beast on. Avoided the official Sony one.

I have also read all the problem postings here. Fortunately my unit seems to perform flawlessly.


----------



## jimg

Just tested by connecting the 960's optical digital audio out to my amp, and a JVC 30000U connected via firewire to the 960.


For D-Theatre tapes, which have both PCM and Dolby Digital soundtracks, you can select either.


You just need to go to the iLink menu, then to the setup menu, then select which Alternate Audio. (Unfortunately the Alternate Audio menu has the menu selections as numbers rather than by type.) For the "Digital Video Essentials" D-Theatre tape, my Yamaha DSP-A1's display showed: Alternate Audio 1=PCM, Alternate Audio 2=Dolby Digital.


----

XBR960 digital audio out summary:


For analog inputs, digital audio out is not active.


For the built-in digital tuner, digital audio out is active.


For iLink (firewire), digital audio out is active (and selectable).


I do not have full HDMI (just DVI-to-HDMI). If someone has full HDMI, please test that when HDMI is selected, the 960's digital audio out is active.


----------



## drvais

Is it possible to select & use a DTS track from the D-Theatre tapes that contain it?


----------



## jimg




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by drvais_
> *Is it possible to select & use a DTS track from the D-Theatre tapes that contain it?*



Sure looks that way... you just need to connect the optical digital audio out to your amp. Don't know how many audio formats the 960 can decode internally.

(I doubt it has DTS, internally but it will send it out the digital audio out.)


The only issue for me is that the 960's iLink Set-up menu, the audio is listed by number not by type, so I have to check the display on my amp to tell me what format the 960 is passing through. [ If there is only 1 audio stream the Audio selection would only have Alternate Audio 1. If you had 2 , Alternate Audio 1, Alternate Audio 2. If you had "n", it would be: Alternate Audio 1, Alternate Audio 2, ... Alternate Audio "n". Sure would be nice if it had "PCM", "Dolby Digital 5.1", "DTS", "Dolby Digital 7.1", etc. (Might not be possible since I don't think the "audio type" is noted in the firewire info packets.)]


----------



## Yung

I thought I might have seen a discussion on this before, but I can't find it. Is there anyway you can go straight to say Video 5 or Video 6 input without having to press the TV/VIDEO button 5 or 6 times?



Also, is it possible to add a specific channel to the TV's memory. For some reason, when I ran the Autoprogram the sensor detected a channel on ch. 48 when the actual channel is ch. 47. I know some remotes have an ADD/Delete Channel feature, and was wondering if its possible to do this with the 960 remote.


----------



## RobZ

I have noticed that when I am watching movies (using RP82 via component 480i--->Cinemotion) there are black smears or shadows when the scene changes from light or white object to black. Is this a common occurence, mis-calibration, or defect?


----------



## bobk999

My 960 was just delivered last night and I have a couple of questions maybe someone can help with. I have cable from brighthouse, no cable box or cable card yet. I also connected a pair of rabbit ears to see if any ota would come in. On ota I am getting every local digital/HD channel with pretty good signal strength. On cable I am only getting 603 through 610. Shouldn't I be getting all the local digital/HD cable channels (ie. 613 and 628)? The other question is about the picture width not completely filling the screen. I was watching CBS and it said 1080i, 16x9. The picture has about a 3/4" area of black on each side, some other channels have less than 3/4" but still not completely filling the screen. I have it set to full. Is there an adjustment for this? SD and DVD are displaying ok. I am also seeing some slight bowing in the top couple of inches on both the right and left. Thanks for any help.


Brighthouse has these digital channels:

603 - WEDU PBS

604 - WEDU PBS Kids / Florida Knowledge Network

605 - WEDU PBS HD/The Florida Channel

610 - WTSP CBS HD

613 - WTVT FOX DT

616 - WUSF PBS

617 - WUSF Annenberg/CPB

618 - WUSF PBS University

619 - WUSF - Florida Knowledge Network

628 - WFTS ABC HD

690 - Discovery HD Theater

691 - TNT HD


----------



## juandixon




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Yung_
> *I thought I might have seen a discussion on this before, but I can't find it. Is there anyway you can go straight to say Video 5 or Video 6 input without having to press the TV/VIDEO button 5 or 6 times?
> 
> *



yes there is an option called label inputs in the settings menu which allows you to turn off(skip) and even label video inputs of your choice.

i currently just have video1(tivo) and video7(hdmi dvd) enabled. works like a charm


----------



## juandixon




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by bobk999_
> *My 960 was just delivered last night and I have a couple of questions maybe someone can help with. I have cable from brighthouse, no cable box or cable card yet. I also connected a pair of rabbit ears to see if any ota would come in. On ota I am getting every local digital/HD channel with pretty good signal strength. On cable I am only getting 603 through 610. Shouldn't I be getting all the local digital/HD cable channels (ie. 613 and 628)? The other question is about the picture width not completely filling the screen. I was watching CBS and it said 1080i, 16x9. The picture has about a 3/4" area of black on each side, some other channels have less than 3/4" but still not completely filling the screen. I have it set to full. Is there an adjustment for this? SD and DVD are displaying ok. I am also seeing some slight bowing in the top couple of inches on both the right and left. Thanks for any help.
> 
> 
> Brighthouse has these digital channels:
> 
> 603 - WEDU PBS
> 
> 604 - WEDU PBS Kids / Florida Knowledge Network
> 
> 605 - WEDU PBS HD/The Florida Channel
> 
> 610 - WTSP CBS HD
> 
> 613 - WTVT FOX DT
> 
> 616 - WUSF PBS
> 
> 617 - WUSF Annenberg/CPB
> 
> 618 - WUSF PBS University
> 
> 619 - WUSF - Florida Knowledge Network
> 
> 628 - WFTS ABC HD
> 
> 690 - Discovery HD Theater
> 
> 691 - TNT HD*



you will get black bars on hd channels like fox hd, cbs hd, that don't always have 16:9 content to stream. take the world series for example, the game itself was in 16:9 but the commercials were in 4:3 which makes the black bars show up even though 1080i and 16:9 were indicated. just watch a program that is in full hd.


In regards with your cable. I am in a similar situation. i just have basic analog cable with no stb or cable card. My 960 tuner is able to get the local hd channels and a few new digital channels. Depending on the cable company you will get channels that are encrypted etc. You may just need a cable card in your situation since those channels(HD/DTV) are there but just encrypted.


I am not sure if the law states that cable companies cannot encrypt the local digital channels, but you may need to do some research on that. just call your cable provider.


----------



## southpark

Your local cable company decides whatever OTA channels they want to carry. Push them.


As to the 16x9 that looks like 4x3, the picture delivered to your TV IS 16x9, with the black bars as part of the picture. The original source is 4x3 480i. TV broadcaster upconverts it to 1080i and adds the black bars to make the overall aspect ratio 16x9.



> Quote:
> _Originally posted by bobk999_
> *Shouldn't I be getting all the local digital/HD cable channels (ie. 613 and 628)? The other question is about the picture width not completely filling the screen. I was watching CBS and it said 1080i, 16x9. The picture has about a 3/4" area of black on each side, some other channels have less than 3/4" but still not completely filling the screen. I have it set to full. Is there an adjustment for this?*


----------



## southpark

Good explanation on aspect ratio.


FCC requires that all the local OTA retransmitted on cable be in clear. But the cable company does not have to carry them. How many and which local OTA channels to carry is totally up tp the cable company. In any event, they can't encrypt them (to force you to pay).




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by juandixon_
> *you will get black bars on hd channels like fox hd, cbs hd, that don't always have 16:9 content to stream. take the world series for example, the game itself was in 16:9 but the commercials were in 4:3 which makes the black bars show up even though 1080i and 16:9 were indicated. just watch a program that is in full hd.
> 
> 
> In regards with your cable. I am in a similar situation. i just have basic analog cable with no stb or cable card. My 960 tuner is able to get the local hd channels and a few new digital channels. Depending on the cable company you will get channels that are encrypted etc. You may just need a cable card in your situation since those channels(HD/DTV) are there but just encrypted.
> 
> 
> I am not sure if the law states that cable companies cannot encrypt the local digital channels, but you may need to do some research on that. just call your cable provider.*


----------



## juandixon

bobk999


oh you should try to so an auto program(in cable mode) to see if those local digital channels get picked up and see which new digital channels get picked up. You see the channels you listed 600 etc, are the channels that your local cable company chooses to map to not what the 960 qam turner will pick up.


for example say channel 613= fox hd. getting a cable card or hd stb will give you that channel. but the 960 qam tuner will give the same channel just under a different mapping.


so you may very well be getting those channels just mapped differently under the 960 turner. again do an autoprogram to detect those new channels.


in my case i was able to get fox hd under channel 100.3 directly from the cable itself. however if iwas to get a stb or cable card that channel would be converted to the channel that my cable company chooses to display. kinda confusing. but cable companies use different internal channels then they map it to a different channel (with or without encryption) on their stb or cable cards. the beauty of the 960 tuner is its able to pick up some of those internal cable channels and display them if its not encrypted. the qam feature of the tuner allows this.


----------



## bobk999

All,


Thanks for the response. I not sure what I am seeing is black bars, it does not look wide enough, plus the width varied by channel. The content looked like 16x9 but it was not quite filling the picture tube edge to edge on the right and left. There was a small about of black, as if the picture needed to be widened a little bit more. I tried different hd channels and the amount of black varied but there was at least some black on each side. Is this normal or does it need an adjustment?


I did do a complete auto program in cable mode and it picked up the cable hd for PBS and CBS, it did not detect FOX and ABC, just not sure why. They do carry them all.


----------



## silvertone




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by bobk999_
> *All,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response. I not sure what I am seeing is black bars, it does not look wide enough, plus the width varied by channel. The content looked like 16x9 but it was not quite filling the picture tube edge to edge on the right and left. There was a small about of black, as if the picture needed to be widened a little bit more. I tried different hd channels and the amount of black varied but there was at least some black on each side. Is this normal or does it need an adjustment?
> 
> 
> I did do a complete auto program in cable mode and it picked up the cable hd for PBS and CBS, it did not detect FOX and ABC, just not sure why. They do carry them all.*



Try using the Square Shooter antenna from Wineguard. Very compact and installation friendly, it also has won lots of awards for perfornmance, I get every single channel with it.


----------



## juandixon




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by bobk999_
> *All,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response. I not sure what I am seeing is black bars, it does not look wide enough, plus the width varied by channel. The content looked like 16x9 but it was not quite filling the picture tube edge to edge on the right and left. There was a small about of black, as if the picture needed to be widened a little bit more. I tried different hd channels and the amount of black varied but there was at least some black on each side. Is this normal or does it need an adjustment?
> 
> 
> I did do a complete auto program in cable mode and it picked up the cable hd for PBS and CBS, it did not detect FOX and ABC, just not sure why. They do carry them all.*



yes black bars vary depending on the content playing. Make sure your content is a 16:9 signal goto hdtvgalaxy.com for shows playing in hd. If you still get black bars say on monday night football, they you just need to adjust(calibrate) the horizontal geometry(service menu) i believe. also may want to try the avia disk to check you geometry if there really is a problem.


----------



## 7thstranger




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by BloatedCorpse_
> *...finally got my original 960 replaced. The new one has an oct 04 manufacture date. First off, the screen seems to have a different type of sheen to it. Perhaps a different type of anti-reflective finish? The geometry, while not perfect, is much closer to my expectations than the 1st set. The overall geometry in the corners is about 50% better. The new set does not exhibit any of the dark shadowing along the left and right sides the first set had, but to be fair I only noticed this darkening after a little bit of use. The new set only required tilt correction +1 as opposed to +3 in the old one. The focus is also tighter along the sides, this I check easily with the on-screen loading indicator for the memory stick. It's only been 12 hours...but maybe I finally got a tv from sony that won't drive me nuts......nah.....lol*



How can I figure out when my 960 was manufactured? I too had an issue with my 960-blurry on the sides and focus was just off. I had myer emco replace it and I just got the new one this week and so far I am happy with it. I just want to make sure that I got a newer model as I think myer emco may have given me a tv that another customer returned.


----------



## juandixon

on the back has the serial number and manufactured date.


----------



## 7thstranger




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by juandixon_
> *on the back has the serial number and manufactured date.*



Thanks. I guess a better question would be whether there is a division between good sets versus bad sets based on the manufacturing date. I heard that one of the reasons this set was backordered across the country is because Sony had to fix the screens. I'm not sure if this is true or not, but will I be able to tell if my tv is ok based on the manufactured date? Thanks!


----------



## juandixon




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by 7thstranger_
> *Thanks. I guess a better question would be whether there is a division between good sets versus bad sets based on the manufacturing date. I heard that one of the reasons this set was backordered across the country is because Sony had to fix the screens. I'm not sure if this is true or not, but will I be able to tell if my tv is ok based on the manufactured date? Thanks!*



mine was manufc in aug serial number 8006xxxx


seems like the 8004xxx had problems. i think those were manuf in june or july.


----------



## 7thstranger

I looked on the back and my (second) 960 was manufactured in 9/04 with a serial nuber beginning with the 900XXX.


For the second time last night my auto programming memory got erased. It happened to me last week when I first got the tv so I thought I might have pressed reset on the remote or something. This time, I did nothing of the sort. I simply turned off the tv and turned it back on a 1/2 hour later and my auto programming was gone. The tv only recognized the channels I had stored in my favorites menu. The only thing that I remember doing both times the auto programming went out was that I was labeling my channels in my favorites menu so I could easily recognize FOX HD, NBC HD etc. Has anyone else had a problem with this?


On another note, I subscribe to basic and expanded basic cable w/ HBO and SHO. I do not have a cable box. After hooking up the 960 and running auto program, I get a lot more channels including some that come on intermittenly that I know I should not be getting (like TEN). Wondering if anyone else hadthe same experience. Thanks.


----------



## kip r




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by HDTVFanAtic_
> *BTW, something I wanted to pass along to those that own the 910 or this one. The tech showed me this and I confirmed it. There are slightly different circuits for Vivid, Standard, Movie and Pro inside the set. Thus if you set Standard to the same settings as Pro, you'd expect it to look the same - there are still differences though due to the circuitry.
> 
> 
> After playing around with it, I would RECOMMEND starting in the Pro mode and ajusting from there. It comes from the factory in VIVID, which if you look at my first post - IS WAY TOO HOT. People complained about a dark set, so they made it lighter, lol.
> 
> 
> A good starting point would be in this area.
> 
> 
> Pro
> 
> 
> Picture 42
> 
> Brightness 36
> 
> Color 28
> 
> Hue 0
> 
> Sharpness 31
> 
> Color Temp Warm
> 
> Clearedge VM Medium
> 
> 
> This should get you close to the ballpark and adjust from there.
> 
> 
> Then set one for a dark room and one brighter during the day and you'll be set.*



I just received a 34xbr960 yesterday and it seems that the picture is WAY too dark. The settings you show in the quote above are not near what I have to do to "lose" very low black levels. I actually have to bring the brightness up almost all the way so that I can see detail in dark areas.

I have a call into Sony, so I don't know what they are going to say about that. The tech on the phone last night thought that something is wrong.

I work in video, so I am sensitive to low black levels in the dark areas. Any thoughts?

thanks, kr


----------



## kaustin

7th...same thing happened to me a couple of days after I got the set, had to autoprogram my main cable channels, plus I had an issue where the TV would turn on and the red light would blink a few times but no picture would show up. I fixed it my recycling my surge protector and everything came back.


I also have the channel issue...I subscribe to basic cable with no HBO or anything and I too get the digital cable channels that pop up, sometimes HBO and also the same TEN which is not good when I have two young ones!


----------



## 7thstranger

thanks kaustin. can you be more specific as to how you fixed the auto program problem? did you replace your surge protector? if so, have you not had a problem with your channels getting erased? Thanks.


----------



## kaustin

I had to go back and autoprogram my channels and have not had it happen again in the week or so since it first happened. Reseting my surge protector was a seperate issue and not related as far as I know.


I also have not had the turn on issue again since I reset my surge protector, which is a brand new Monster brand. go figure?


----------



## 7thstranger

Interesting...because the guy at myer emco was concentrating on my "power" situation. I have a regular old power strip hooked up to my equipment so I wonder if the channel problem was caused by surge from turning the tv on and off... just a hypothesis but this might be a good enough reason to invest in the monster power center thingy.


----------



## silvertone

I've had this set for quite a while now. Today when I got very close to the screen while hooking up my new dvd player, I noticed two very thin horizontal black lines accross the screen. One is about 6 inches down from the top, the other one six inches up from the bottom, they run all the way accross. I guess it's possible that it's been like this since I recieved it (3 months ago), it's very hard to see them from where I'm siting. If I had to describe them I'd say they look like 'dead scan lines'. Has anybody else noticed this? It's much more noticeable on light color backgrounds (white, blue). I'm wondering if my set is starting to go bad.


thanks


----------



## kdb209

I don't have a960 to compare, but they sound a lot like the lines I

had on an old Sony Trinitron monitor. Apparently they were fine wires

which supported the shadow mask on the front of the tube.




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by silvertone_
> *I've had this set for quite a while now. Today when I got very close to the screen while hooking up my new dvd player, I noticed two very thin horizontal black lines accross the screen. One is about 6 inches down from the top, the other one six inches up from the bottom, they run all the way accross. I guess it's possible that it's been like this since I recieved it (3 months ago), it's very hard to see them from where I'm siting. If I had to describe them I'd say they look like 'dead scan lines'. Has anybody else noticed this? It's much more noticeable on light color backgrounds (white, blue). I'm wondering if my set is starting to go bad.
> 
> 
> thanks*


----------



## silvertone




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by kdb209_
> *I don't have a960 to compare, but they sound a lot like the lines I
> 
> had on an old Sony Trinitron monitor. Apparently they were fine wires
> 
> which supported the shadow mask on the front of the tube.*



They certainly look like fine wires. I'll see if I can visit my local retailer and see if their floor model has them.


----------



## Shapeshifter

a trinitron is NOT a shadow mask!


Its an aperture grill (IMO and most others, much better then Shadow mask)


Those are stabilzation wires. perfectly normal.


----------



## spongebob




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by silvertone_
> *I've had this set for quite a while now. Today when I got very close to the screen while hooking up my new dvd player, I noticed two very thin horizontal black lines accross the screen. One is about 6 inches down from the top, the other one six inches up from the bottom, they run all the way accross. I guess it's possible that it's been like this since I recieved it (3 months ago), it's very hard to see them from where I'm siting. If I had to describe them I'd say they look like 'dead scan lines'. Has anybody else noticed this? It's much more noticeable on light color backgrounds (white, blue). I'm wondering if my set is starting to go bad.
> 
> 
> thanks*



Welcome to the land of "Trinitron"










All Sony monitors have it.


bob


----------



## silvertone

Thank you all for the feedback. Now, back to the HD broadcast of Monsters Inc.


----------



## mr2828

Regarding losing the autoprogramming, I read this over at a different forum:



> Quote:
> This issue is addressed in service bulletin E26205993, dated 10/26/2004, "TV loses channel memory". The resolution is to upgrade the software to version 1.30 (part number T99860195, a memory stick). I would schedule a service call from an authorized Sony service center, advising them of the problem, the service bulletin number and the part number of the software upgrade required.



I have my 960 being delivered tomorrow, so now I'm wondering how can I tell what software version it is running?


----------



## tennberg

mr2828:


Interesting. I'd be curious to hear how one obtains this software udpate and if it fixes anything else with the set. Also, would this update *all* the software on the set, or would you need multiple Memory Sticks to update certain aspects?


To all other 960 owners:


I am currently on my second set (serial number 80080xx, manuf. Sept. 2004). The first set had a serial number of 80058xx.


Tonight, while watching an HD channel, the TV had a quick green flash across the entire screen which was accompanied by a small popping sound coming from the direction of the set. I immediately got up to see if anything was burning or if I could smell anything. Nothing. It also seems the picture quality was not affected.


What happened here? I believe others have had a problem similar to this. Should I be concerned? Does this 960 need to be exchanged again?


----------



## mr2828

This site won't let me post a direct link to where I found that info since I have too few posts, but it was at the www agoraquest dot com forum, in the television troubleshooting subforum, in the 34xbr960 autoprogramming problem thread.


----------



## cafzal




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by kip r_
> *I just received a 34xbr960 yesterday and it seems that the picture is WAY too dark. The settings you show in the quote above are not near what I have to do to "lose" very low black levels. I actually have to bring the brightness up almost all the way so that I can see detail in dark areas.
> 
> I have a call into Sony, so I don't know what they are going to say about that. The tech on the phone last night thought that something is wrong.
> 
> I work in video, so I am sensitive to low black levels in the dark areas. Any thoughts?
> 
> thanks, kr*



I too got a new one yesterday, manufacture date 10/04 which seems WAY too dark. This is actually my secobd set, the first being replaced as a result of the warming up tuner glitch (need to turn set off and back on several time to get the tuner too work properly). Have you found any solutions kr? calibration?

CA


----------



## mr2828

I got mine this morning, and have done basic calibration using the Video Essentials dvd. I have it set in Pro mode, color temp warm, all sharpness off/reduced, color axis set to monitor. I ended up with brightness set at around 43 when finished, but I bumped it up to 47 after watching some test material.


How does this compare with others' brightness settings?


Also, two other small questions: There is a digital cable ready sticker on the lower left of the front of the set - is it safe to remove it or will it leave behind an ugly mess?


Secondly, if I'm watching output from my dvd player and the player is set to progressive mode, and I'm connected to Video 5 input, should the tv display show the signal as 480i? Or will it say 480p? So far all I get is 480i.


----------



## BTV Mark

To follow-up my previous comments about the Denon 1910: I found the video quality IS best using the DVI output with the DVD player set to 480p. The picture does not fill the screen until I go to "full" on the TV. (The picture is larger if I set the DVD to 720p or 1080i, but the quality isn't as good.) I presume this means the additional processing done in the TV is better than if done in the DVD player.


OK, no surprises there. Now a question: The 960 manual does not have any codes for Denon DVD players. Anyone know a code that will work? Or do I just need to use the Denon remote or get a "learning" remote?


Mark


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by mr2828_
> *
> 
> 
> Secondly, if I'm watching output from my dvd player and the player is set to progressive mode, and I'm connected to Video 5 input, should the tv display show the signal as 480i? Or will it say 480p? So far all I get is 480i.*



Here's what I've observed: External composite video inputs do not show 480i. However, my component DVD player's modes display properly (480p, 720p, 1080i) on the TV when connected through the DVI/HDMI connector, and show 480p when connected through component cables.


Mark


----------



## kip r




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by cafzal_
> *I too got a new one yesterday, manufacture date 10/04 which seems WAY too dark. This is actually my secobd set, the first being replaced as a result of the warming up tuner glitch (need to turn set off and back on several time to get the tuner too work properly). Have you found any solutions kr? calibration?
> 
> CA*



I have not found any solutions and, as I said, the sony tech. said that things are not right.

I plan to call them back and, as they suggested, have a tech. come out to check things. The only settings that are at all viewable are the vibrant setting and the standard setting. The cinema and pro setttings look like next to black!

I am very glad I bought from CC instead of the on-line place where there is a 20% restocking fee. CC is, of course, 30 day return....

will update...

kr


----------



## mr2828

Hmm, well I'm connected through component cables from the dvd player to input 5 on the tv, but it still shows 480i when I hit the display button. Perhaps my el-cheapo Toshiba dvd player which supposedly does progressive mode really doesn't? But the player does have a setting for it in its setup menu which I have turned on. Odd. Looks beautiful though as it is.


----------



## smirnoffski

My set's serial number is 8001xxx and I have had no problems whatsoever. This could probably due to the fact that mine is a first batch production as manufacturers always pay special attention to those.


----------



## mr2828

Ahh I figured out the dvd player issue. Apparently on this model you have to specifically press the "progressive" button on the remote every single time you watch a new disc. Guess I'll get a better player soon.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by mr2828_
> *Hmm, well I'm connected through component cables from the dvd player to input 5 on the tv, but it still shows 480i when I hit the display button. Perhaps my el-cheapo Toshiba dvd player which supposedly does progressive mode really doesn't? But the player does have a setting for it in its setup menu which I have turned on. Odd. Looks beautiful though as it is.*



The most important thing is it looks good to you, and I think the biggest improvement is moving from compoite to component video. But...I think we all want to know we're getting every feature, too! It sounds like you're getting 480i instead of 480p out of your DVD player.


Mark


----------



## Procure

Hey,


I received the 960 on Friday and the delivery men almost had a heart attack carrying the thing upstairs. I know I can never move now. I know no one would want to move this thing.


review:


Picture on SD is very good

Picture on HD awesome

Picture on DVD awesome

Picture on VCR is So So


No color, tuner or geometric problems whatsoever. I feel very blessed for the receiving of a good set. I do not use cable, or satelite. I do not believe in paying $40-50 a month for nothing to watch. I am probably the only house in America that uses a good ole fashion attic antenna. I hooked up the antenna, and it found every local SD, and HD channel in Houston. it was pretty cool.


I have it plugged into an ISO Bar (Tripp Lite) Ultra Surge Surpressor. We use these at work on all computers, so I figure they can't be that bad.


A pure awesome TV.


Now all I have to do is pay for the thing.


Brian


----------



## adambilyeu

No you're not- I also have the 960 with no cable, just a good ol' fashioned antenna. We also get all the local SD and HD channels.

We have a Monster Cable htps 7000 (balanced power) for the surge protector.

I love this tv- the picture is absolutely stunning- especially HD. We watched college football last Saturday and WOW!!- nuf said.


----------



## tennberg

960 Owners:


I recently got a replacement 960 (manuf. September 2004, serial 8008xxx). A few nights ago, while watching an HD channel, the screen flashed green, I heard a small popping sound coming from the set, and the picture lost some of its clarity for a couple seconds. 10-20 seconds later, the set was back to normal. As far as I can tell, no permanent damage was done.


Has anyone with a newer set (September/October 2004) noticed this problem with their set? My previous set was manufacured in August 2004 and I never experienced that problem with it.


Thanks.


----------



## hancox




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by mr2828_
> *This site won't let me post a direct link to where I found that info since I have too few posts, but it was at the www agoraquest dot com forum, in the television troubleshooting subforum, in the 34xbr960 autoprogramming problem thread.*



Great post. Thanks for the info. I'm wondering if anyone knows how to check the software version on this TV, and what any other fixes / upgrades are available


----------



## tennberg

hancox, et. al.:


I've spoken to two Sony technical support people and asked them the following questions:


1. How do I determine the software version on my KD-34XBR960?


Sony's response (both times): "We have no further information at this time."



2. How do I obtain software or firmware updates for the KD-34XBR960? Here is the service bulletin number for software version 1.3, which may help.


Sony's response (both times): "There are no software or firmware updates for this set."


Go figure.


----------



## rekalil

I just received a new 34XBR960, and all that I can say for now is that it turns on when it's plugged in. This is a good first start, but I suspect that soon I will want to calibrate the set, which will require a service manual to make the adjustments in the service menu needed to set color temperature and gray scale properly, adjust the red, blue and green guns to improve color balance, etc.

I have some experience making service menu adjustments with my 32XBR2, which improved the picture significantly. The adjustments were relatively easy to make for the XBR2, because appropriate values for each relevant adjustment had been published at the the time, as have similar adjustments under the service menu now been published for the XBR910, as posted in this thread.

However, I don't think it would be prudent to use the values published for the 910 with the 960, and, therefore, I am wondering whether a table of suggested settings for the parameters that affect picture quality is available for the XBR960.

Thanks very much.

Ron


----------



## hancox

troll this thread - they're in there, promise


----------



## Procure

Hey,


Well I have had the set for a week now and every thing is still working (knock on wood, and throw salt over my left shoulder). I am not a real videophile where I constantly look at the picture and think it needs to calibrated. I am just in awe of the HD picture available using the menu controls. I do not think I want to mess with the service menu.


Is there any reference available to know what the HD channel signal strengh tranlates to. On some i get 85 range and on others I get 98 range. Just was curious if this is good, or bad???? There is nothing listed in the manual.


Another question do the networks show commercials in HD?? I notice when I watch CSI that the show is in widescreen, but the commercials go to a acreen with bars. Just curious.


Amazing TV. CSI was awesome in HD, and i do not even care for the show.


Brian


----------



## 7thstranger

commericals are not broadcast in HD so the bars are normal. Re CSI in HD, that's how they get you man! I've ignored cable the last few weeks and started watching shows that I either don't care for or haven't watched in a while like ER or West Wing. If you are a sports fan, wait till you see football in HD, baseball looks even better because the action is slower.


----------



## Mike3

Shortcomings

The built-in HDTV tuner guide: I've had afew OTA boxes before and everyone of them had a significantly better guide. This TV's guide virtually does nothing more than show you what's on the cchannel you're watching. Other guides let you page ahead and set reminders for future programming or browse the offerings of other OTA channels.

POP: I like it for the most part and it's part of the reason I went with this model instead of the other two 34 inch models currently offered. The Picture outside picture feature is the same as on the 510 I used to have from Sony. It would be nice if there was also a PIP option where you could watch one program full screen and another in a window or watch two programs full screen either with distortion/compression or centered and cropped.

Remote: It would be so much better if you could have dedicated buttons so it wasn't necessary to hit video several times to get through all of the different videos. While I realize it's possible to skip some of them, you don't want to skip ones that you use or might use like video2. Currently I'm only able to skip 3 and 4.


All and all, I'm very pleased these are just a few of the things that could be better. I've had the TV for like 2 months now and these are the only real shortcomings.


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by 7thstranger_
> *commericals are not broadcast in HD so the bars are normal. Re CSI in HD, that's how they get you man! I've ignored cable the last few weeks and started watching shows that I either don't care for or haven't watched in a while like ER or West Wing. If you are a sports fan, wait till you see football in HD, baseball looks even better because the action is slower.*



7th:


I have not seen commercials in HD on any of the broadcast channels. However, I did see an HD commercial from Circuit City and one from either Samsung or Philips the other night on Discovery HD Theater.


As for baseball in HD, it depends on who broadcasts it. On my 960, baseball from NESN (the local Red Sox station) or ESPN tends to look better than what Fox broadcast during the baseball playoffs (though these are better than anything in analog 4:3).


----------



## 7thstranger

I only get the fox broadcast and I thought it was amazing. If you are saying NESN and ESPN looks even better, that's great. I've heard that ESPN is the only network broadcasting true HD because it is processed only once and does not go through an upconversion. I don't know if this is true or not but it might explain why it looks better to you than the FOX sport's broadcast.


----------



## Salem_Sony

I'm finally getting my XBR960 this Monday and I would like to buy a good surge protector for it, any models #? I think Monster was mentioned, which model?

And what about video component wires?


Cant' wait.....


----------



## adambilyeu




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Salem_Sony_
> *I'm finally getting my XBR960 this Monday and I would like to buy a good surge protector for it, any models #? I think Monster was mentioned, which model?
> 
> And what about video component wires?
> 
> 
> Cant' wait.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *



I have a Monster Power htps7000 (balanced power) I think it works fine- very happy with it. It basically depends on how much money you want to spend.

I also have a bravo D2 dvd player connected to the tv via a dvi to hdmi cable. Picture is awesome!!


----------



## 7thstranger

whoa, that's a serious surge protector. I use the HTS 1000 MKII PowerCenter with Clean Power Stage 2 v.2.0 and it works well for me. the htps is for more high end then our xbr960 right?


----------



## Salem_Sony

Yeah....htps7000 it's over a $1000.....ouch!

I went to look for the HTS 1000 and they ranged from $100 to $150.

But found an awesome deal through Amazon for an HTS 2000 for $120....almost 50% off and it brand new.


Now I only need to wait for some reviews between the P70 or the DVP-NS975V dvd players before I buy either composite or HDMI wires.....


Now I only need to wait for the 960 to come on Monday.....can't wait!!!!


Thanks again!


----------



## drefic

I have my xbr960 hooked up to DVD through the progressive component. The problem I am having is that when i watch a wide screen dvd on the normal view mode, the image is rectangle in the middle of the screen with black bars all the way around. I have tried using to different progressive scan dvd players, a sony and a samsung. How do i get the tv to recongize the dvd as a wide screen source and get 16:9 picture instead of 4:3?

Thanks


----------



## NorthJersey

configure the dvd player to be connected to a 16x9 tv, most have this option in the player's config menu. Also, use the Full picture mode on the 960


----------



## mr2828

Tonight I was watching a bit of Stargate SG-1 on SciFi and saw it was letterboxed so I decided to take advantage of that and switch to the normal Zoom mode so it would fill the whole screen.


However it seems that the normal Zoom (not wide zoom) on my xbr960 is stretching the picture slightly. I actually got my tape measure out, paused the show, and measured the ratio of a character's head in normal mode and zoom mode. In normal it was .678 and in zoom it was around .74. It's enough of a difference to make everyone's head look slightly too fat, which really is a shame because more and more SD shows are letterboxed to HD ratio and it's great to be able to fill the whole screen.


I think the other modes are working great - is there a service mode adjustment available for ONLY the zoom mode geometry? Or is the Sony zoom mode just a bit broken? I took a brief look through the xbr910 service mode excel file and don't see anything useful.


----------



## mr2828

Looks like I found an answer over in the xbr910 service mode thread. I'll try it out tomorrow and see if I can tweak the zoom mode to have correct proportions.



> Quote:
> There are sizing and positioning controls for all the different signal types and different aspect ratio modes. That's why there are so many, and yes they are complicated.
> 
> 
> VSIZ (and HSIZ) seem to work sort of like master controls for the whole raster, so they may be the easiest to use, but may also tend to distort the picture more than other controls, since they're sort of the ground zero for many other geometry adjustments. HSIZ is signal sensitive, ie, can be set differently for 1080i than other signals.
> 
> 
> ASPT creates less distortion than VSIZ, so ASPT is my personal preference between those two commands. But unlike VSIZ, ASPT is signal and aspect ratio sensitive, meaning ASPT can probably be set differently for each type of signal (480i, 480p, 1080i) and AR mode (Full, Zoom, Normal, Wide Zoom). so getting it adjusted the same for every signal and AR mode may take alot more work. And it may not fit with the paradigm for adjustments layed out in the XBR910 spreadsheets here, and hence may not be the way you'd want to go.
> 
> 
> I believe that MID1/MDVS & MDVP could also be somewhat signal and AR sensitive too. These should also create less distortion than VSIZ & HSIZ. Not really sure how the MID1 commands should be used though. Maybe someone else can comment on that.


----------



## mr2828

By the way for anyone curious about that distracting bright white "digital cable ready" sticker in the lower left of the front of the tv, it does come off easily without leaving behind a big mess.


----------



## mr2828

More info on the new software upgrade. I'm curious if the people here who experienced autoprogramming loss had this many channels?



> Quote:
> Service bulletin E26205993, "TV loses channel memory", is back. It was revised on 11/1/04. You should know that the issue addressed only occurs if the number of cable channels exceeds 511.


 http://www.agoraquest.com/viewtopic....17026&forum=34


----------



## bilguana

The XBR960 has a Digital Audio Optical out labeled PCM/Dolby Digital. Does any one know how to switch this output from Dolby Digital (I assume this is up to 5.1 depending on the broadcast) to PCM (I assume this is two channel). I couldn't find it in the manual.


----------



## DaBears!




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by mr2828_
> *Looks like I found an answer over in the xbr910 service mode thread. I'll try it out tomorrow and see if I can tweak the zoom mode to have correct proportions.*



I have read the 910 service mode thread but I am not sure everything applies or should be used on the 960. I am waiting for someone to make 960 service mode thread with the detail that is in the 910 thread. There are bits and pieces about the service mode settings for the 960 in this thread but it would be nice to see someone put together a nice concise thread like the 910 one.


----------



## tennberg

So...


My second XBR960 (the first one had a dead spot with no color in the middle of the screen) has exhibited the same problem twice in 1 week: the entire screen will flash green accompanied by a popping noise. It then takes some time for the screen to recover its color, contrast, brightness, etc. It seems as though the TV is auto-degaussing.


I have a few questions:


1. Has anyone seen this problem on their 960? The current 960 was manufactured in Sept. 2004 with serial number 8008xxx. The previous 960 with the dead spot was manuf. in August 2004 with serial number 8005xxx.


2. Is this causing any damage to the set or tube?


3. If the set is auto-degaussing itself, why is it doing it and how do I stop it?


The only thing that's been connected to the TV while it's been doing this has been a Motorola 6208 cable box connected via high quality component cables.


----------



## mr2828

To followup, I was able to tweak the zoom mode specifically on my video 1 to get identical proportions as the normal mode using the service mode. Now I can zoom in on letterboxed content on the satellite receiver without any distortion.


First I tuned to video 1 and zoom mode, then entered service mode. The settings I used including old / new values were:


MID2 DRHP 117 / 92

MID2 DRHS 180 / 190

MID2 DRVP 37 / 26

MID2 DRVS 120 / 125


I wasn't planning initially to tweak the vertical size/position settings, but I realized when comparing to normal mode that the zoom was chopping a bit too much off the top & bottom.


As far as I can see, these tweaks didn't affect any other mode on the tv.


----------



## hancox

OK - I've got a pickle here...


Got the 960. Love it. Used to have a set with a built in PS DVD player.


Only DVD player I have now is a non-PS DVD player, but it has component out (never heard of this, but I'll take it!)


Watched a couple of movies, and I'm VERY happy with the output. I'm under the impression that the XBR is scaling the 480i component in.


That being the case - I'm wondering if it's best to:


1) Leave as-is (XBR has best scaler for 480i)


2) Go for a good PS DVD (XBR scales 480p well)


3) Go for an upconverter


I'm thinking it's between 1 and 2, but I'm open to options...


----------



## rekalil

I decided to purchase a service manual for my XBR960 at Sony's Direct Parts and Accessories web site, http://servicesales.sel.sony.com/web/index.jsp, but have been unable to locate the manual for the set or anything else for that matter, other than two options for additional remote controls.

If anyone has had success in navigating this site, I would appreciate learning how it is done.

Thanks

Ron


----------



## Salem_Sony

Well I finally received my 960 and I can only say totally awesome.

The weird part is that my number is 8004XXX and was manufactured in October???? I thought 8004 was July/Aug.......anyway.....

I just plugged my cable without a box and I get 3 HD channels, plus HBO, Cinemax, Playboy and Spice....hehehee without paying......the weird part the channels keep changing around(the ones I suppose to be paying)......1 minute HBO is on 80.7 then its on 81.3.

With the Antenna I only get 2 HD channels.


So far no problems at all.....


I will probably pay the extra $10 to get ESPN, DISC and etc. through Comcast in the next few days and I'm sure I'll lose all those free channels.


Hey Tennberg do you ha ve a card or a box for HD? How much do you pay through Comcast? Any preferences? Which channels come with the package?


Need to investigate my DVD a bit more before I report.....


All for now.......


----------



## Salem_Sony

You can get a pdf manual for free right at sonystyle:

http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTE...KU=KD34XBR960#


----------



## 7thstranger




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by mr2828_
> *More info on the new software upgrade. I'm curious if the people here who experienced autoprogramming loss had this many channels?
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.agoraquest.com/viewtopic....17026&forum=34 *



It is I, the one and only 7thstranger who posted on agoraquest as well to try and solve my autoprogramming problem. I do not have over 511 channels programmed (although I have to check but I really do not remember that many channels being programmed). I've contacted my retailer who is supposed to look into it. I've also ordered a monster power cleaner/surge protector to see if it was a power issue as I live in an apartment building.


On another note, my 960 (this is my second as the first one was replaced) was also manufactured in Sept 2004 but the serial number begins in with 900xxx . Not sure what this means b/c it seems like everyone else's tv begins with 800xxx.


----------



## mr2828

Mine was made in October with 900xxxx...


----------



## andrewjnyc

When I got my 960 a couple months ago, I expected 1080i programming would look better than 720p since the set upscales 720p instead of displaying it natively. However, I've found that upscaled 720p ABC shows (LOST, DESPERATE HOUSEWIVES, etc.) look much sharper and more vivid than 1080i NBC shows such as THE WEST WING, ER etc. Is there a particular reason for this? Does it have something to do with the way the networks convert their respective programs to HD? Or does 720p have an inherent superiority that transcends the upscaling process?


----------



## cafzal




> _Originally posted by rekalil_
> 
> *I decided to purchase a service manual for my XBR960 at Sony's Direct Parts and Accessories web site,
> 
> 
> 
> I just got one. I had to speak to a service representative, they give you a service number and then send the manual.*


----------



## Salem_Sony

I knew it was to good to be true, I'm getting a green spot right in upper corner, 2 inches wide & 4 inches long. Just like if somebody put a magnet at that corner. And No I don't have any speakers in the room.

Do I need to replace my TV? Or is it something that can be fixed?

I think a few people had this problems....


Let me hear.......


----------



## bobk999

My set was also made in October with serial 900xxxx. I have owned it for about 2 weeks and have not experienced any of the earlier mentioned problems.


----------



## 7thstranger




> _Originally posted by cafzal_
> 
> *
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally posted by rekalil
> I decided to purchase a service manual for my XBR960 at Sony's Direct Parts and Accessories web site,
> 
> 
> 
> I just got one. I had to speak to a service representative, they give you a service number and then send the manual.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> How much did it cost? I'm curious whether a person (like myself) should delve into the service menu with no experience. I'm hesitant but I also don't feel like spending $400 for a tech to configure my 960. Any thoughts?*


----------



## meelk

I just bought this set from CC, while it has not yet arrived, I'm looking forward to having a great time with it. Is there a "tuning" guide available yet, something to help me calibrate for the best picture?


----------



## imperial521

I have only 1 reservation about buying this TV. That is there is just 1 HDMI port. I figure I will attach my satelite box to the HDMI port in back but how would I attach both a Satelite box and a DVD player with only 1 HDMI port?


I figure this will be resolved when recievers come out with HDMI ports of their own, but right now there aren't any I know of. Does anyone know when recievers will start having HDMI ports on them?


----------



## cafzal




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by 7thstranger_
> *How much did it cost? I'm curious whether a person (like myself) should delve into the service menu with no experience. I'm hesitant but I also don't feel like spending $400 for a tech to configure my 960. Any thoughts?*



It cost about $40. In the end it was not very helpful, because there is no glossary for the service codes. You end up just playing with various settings using trial and error or else trying to guess what they stand for. I had a xbr960 which was to dark, the brightness had to be pushed up almost all the way just to reveal the backgrounds in some sources (Law & Order, CSI, Cspan etc.). Rather than being able to simply tone down the Black levels I had to hump the tv back to the dealer and accept their demo (which was on since August) It had balanced dark and light levels. This with the added humiliation of debating the relative merits of the various blacklevels ("Its too dark, No it isn't , No it really is.") So even though its a wonderful machine, there is a bittersweet taste in my mouth from the experience. In the end a piece of high end equipment should not be like a fine wine, having bottle variation; what happened to standard acceptable tolerances


----------



## jmatotek

Anyone have this problem

I've had the XBR960 since 9/22. Perfect until this morning. When I turned it on the screen had a flash to it, like something popped. Now it is all out of focus, menus, everything. I unplugged it for about 20 minutes hoping it would reset, but no luck. I'm calling repair, but was just wondering if anyone else had the same problem.

Thanks

John


----------



## Randy384

imperial521,


Panasonic has such a receiver coming out soon.


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by jmatotek_
> *Anyone have this problem
> 
> I've had the XBR960 since 9/22. Perfect until this morning. When I turned it on the screen had a flash to it, like something popped. Now it is all out of focus, menus, everything. I unplugged it for about 20 minutes hoping it would reset, but no luck. I'm calling repair, but was just wondering if anyone else had the same problem.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> John*



jmatotek:


Was the flash green? Was the pop noticable but not loud? I've had the same thing happen on my current 960 twice. This is my second 960, as the first developed a dead spot in the center of the screen with no color or picture.


I swear the picture doesn't seem as focused as before. Even though the set has a 5-year warranty on it (through Tweeter), I am slightly hesitant to go back to them and say "Hey, the second set seems to be defective as well." I bought the first 960 back in late August of this year, and had it replaced about 2 weeks ago.


Keep me posted on your situation. I may give Tweeter a call next week to describe my problem to them and see what they think.


----------



## jmatotek

Tennburg

The flash was green. The picture isn't terrible. The HD seems more like low resolution digital, and the digital(Directv) seems like grainy analog. The focus is very noticeable on menus, can't hardly read them. Someone's coming Wednesday to check it out. When I called Sony service, he said he looked through the records, and no one has reported focus problems on this set. Yesterday when I was watching it had 2 small pops, never did that before either. I'm hoping it's just one of the boards, I don't want to try to get it back in the box.

John


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by imperial521_
> *I have only 1 reservation about buying this TV. That is there is just 1 HDMI port. I figure I will attach my satelite box to the HDMI port in back but how would I attach both a Satelite box and a DVD player with only 1 HDMI port?
> 
> 
> I figure this will be resolved when recievers come out with HDMI ports of their own, but right now there aren't any I know of. Does anyone know when recievers will start having HDMI ports on them?*



I was concerned about this also. There ARE some "A/B" switchboxes available, ( e.g. http://www.ramelectronics.net/html/hdmi-2x1-switch.htm )but currently they are expensive. So that's one option.


I am hoping that more devices come out with Firewire capability. Perhaps then it won't be so important to have more HDMI ports.


Any other thoughts?


Mark


----------



## silvertone

I've had this set since August. When I turned it on this evening it had no piture, tried turning it on and off several times with no luck. The Timer/Standby led would flash for a few seconds then it would go out.


I decided it to unplug it and plug it back in and the picture came back.


Any ideas?


Thanks.


----------



## Beaver8tr




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by silvertone_
> *I've had this set since August. When I turned it on this evening it had no piture, tried turning it on and off several times with no luck. The Timer/Standby led would flash for a few seconds then it would go out.
> 
> 
> I decided it to unplug it and plug it back in and the picture came back.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> 
> Thanks.*



The good news is that it's working again, but whether or not it was a one time event you may not know for a while. It might be best to call for service. You can check the error codes(which the flashing standby led indicated) by pressing the following keys on the remote: Display - 5 - Volume down - Power on. Starting with the set turned off. All this will tell you though, is that there was a problem, which you already know. The tech will use this to determine where the fault may be.


----------



## silvertone

Thanks for the feedback. That sequence of key strokes didn't do anything, the good news is the tv seems to be back to normal.


----------



## rekalil

For the XBR910, setting the color temperature to "warm" in Pro mode was closer to 6500K than "neutral." Is the "warm" setting in Pro mode for the XBR960 also closer to 6500K than "neutral" ?

Thanks .

Ron


----------



## silvertone




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by rekalil_
> *For the XBR910, setting the color temperature to "warm" in Pro mode was closer to 6500K than "neutral." Is the "warm" setting in Pro mode for the XBR960 also closer to 6500K than "neutral" ?
> 
> Thanks .
> 
> Ron*



My calibrator used the Neutral setting.


----------



## cb_avatar

Can use from advice from the group:


1) Looking for opinons on "Tilt." My new XBR (mfg date of 11/2004) required +3 tilt to get the picture perfectly level. Is this unreasonable and reason enough to ask for a swap?


2) Second concern is that there is a bit of convergence related outlines in the corners--is this reason to go for a replacement?


3) Third concern is that Fox 5 (D.C) from my OTA antenna is off center to the left a few inches. All other OTA channels are dead center. This one is really odd. I swapped out to use my DirecTV OTA decoder with the same results: only Fox 5 is off to the left.


My frame of reference is a 12 year old Mitsubishi--the new XBR is phenomenal by comparison, but welcome views from this forum.


Thanks!


CB_Avatar


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by cb_avatar_
> *Can use from advice from the group:
> 
> 
> 1) Looking for opinions on "Tilt." My new XBR (mfg date of 11/2004) required +3 tilt to get the picture perfectly level. Is this unreasonable and reason enough to ask for a swap?
> 
> 
> 2) Second concern is that there is a bit of convergence related outlines in the corners--is this reason to go for a replacement?
> 
> 
> 3) Third concern is that Fox 5 (D.C) from my OTA antenna is off center to the left a few inches. All other OTA channels are dead center. This one is really odd. I swapped out to use my DirecTV OTA decoder with the same results: only Fox 5 is off to the left.
> 
> 
> My frame of reference is a 12 year old Mitsubishi--the new XBR is phenomenal by comparison, but welcome views from this forum.
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> CB_Avatar*



Avatar, it seems to me you're looking very hard for reasons to return the set. Although this TV is excellent, no set is perfect. Perhaps your expectations are too high. I suggest you go to a retail dealer to see how your set compares to those in the showroom. My opinion on your concerns:


1) As long as the picture is level within the adjustment range, you have no problem

2) Well, there ARE very slight errors in every set. In my case, the dealer sent a technician who made minor convergence adjustments at no charge to me. I'm perfectly happy now.

3) This one beats me. Since you get this from OTA and DirectTV, I would suspect the source. Again, check this on another set at your dealer.


Mark


----------



## Mike3

I think everyone lost track of this thread as there's like 6 other threads going now about the 960.


Bump!


----------



## tennberg

Question for all 960 owners:


For those of you who have experienced "popping" or green flashes from this set, what did Sony or your local retailer say was the cause when you mentioned this to them?


I am on my second 960 (first was replaced due to dark spots on the screen) and this 960 is now experiencing this problem. On a few occassions, the screen emitted a green flash and I heard a small popping sound coming from the set. After the flash, the screen looked very washed out and took a minute to get back its original color and contrast.


I am also of the belief that the set is a bit "blurrier" now, as some HD channels do not look as sharp anymore.


I am a bit hesitant to have the set exchanged again for two reasons. One, my retailer, Tweeter, may think I'm trying to get new sets out of them all the time. Granted, I have a 5 year warranty through them, but still. Two, I cannot reproduce this problem. With the first set, the techs could easily see there were black spots on the screen.


Any suggestions?


Thanks!


----------



## mr2828

It's your call, but personally in your situation I would get it replaced again. Especially if it seems to be doing it more than once / regularly. Mine has never done that in the six weeks I've had it now.


----------



## Mike3

I've had my 960 since September and I would say I haven't had any problems with it. I've been very pleased.


----------



## drkashner

Hi,


I've had my 960 for 4 days now, my first HDTV. No geometry issues that matter. On 4:3 on the right top side it curves out a little bit, but no one would notice if you weren't looking for it. I think I've figured out the tuner. It is more important to have my OTA antenna turned exactly right to get digital stations. The analog tuner must be excellent, because I get more analog stations than I did before, and I can get 20 digital stations. I live in southern PA and I can get digital stations all the way south to DC. Analog stations and Directv are not bad, DVD excellent. After reading some posts, I was worried that they would look terrible. My problem, is that the color consistantly looks toward the green side. I can adjust the hue to about 5 or 6 red and that helps fleshtones, but shadows still look a bit green. I remember old color sets had red, green, and blue drive, and RGB screen settings. Is there a place in the service menu to adjust color? I wouldn't change any settings in the service menu until I've had it for awhile anyway.

Would a professional calibration correct this? Anyone know of a calibrator in the York, Harrisburg, Lancaster PA area?

Thanks


----------



## ajhoop

Well, thanks in no small part to the wealth of information on this board I took delivery of my new 960 last week. The picture is stunning and I am loving football on HD. I do have a couple of questions, though.


1. I've got the audio set up to run from the tv into my Yamaha receiver. I'm using both the optical audio out and the composite audio out. I have the TV's speakers turned off and have tried both "fixed" and "variable" for the audio out. The problem I'm having is that the volume seems to be drastically different depending on which channel I'm watching. I think the digital channels (I'm using a cablecard) are generally much louder than the non-digital channels. Any ideas on how to fix this?


2. Can I program the TV's volume control on the remote to control my receiver's volume? I had my Sony Tivo doing this, so it must be possible somehow...


3. When I use either the TwinView or the Favorite Channels preview screens the audio output seems to cut off when I'm watching a non-digital channel. I then have to go back to a digital channel and redo the audio out selections. Am I doing something wrong here, or is this just some kind of bug with the tv?


Thanks for all your help with this.


----------



## FlipFantastic

1) My HD channels are louder, too. I think this is normal since HD is not only quality video, but better audio, also. Just have to learn to live with it.


Question: does the TwinView work with the CableCard allowing you to basically use it like a PIP? I thought the TwinView only showed you things on 2 different video settings, so you can flip from the TV to a DVD, but not TV to TV. Just curious.


----------



## mr2828

Yes the remote can control your receiver. The procedure for setting that up is in the manual.


----------



## ajhoop

Question: does the TwinView work with the CableCard allowing you to basically use it like a PIP? I thought the TwinView only showed you things on 2 different video settings, so you can flip from the TV to a DVD, but not TV to TV. Just curious.


I haven't played with TwinView too much, so somebody else probably ought to answer this. I do know that when using the Favorite channels feature the HD channels will not display in the display window on the upper right hand side.


As to the remote setup, I checked the manual and it doesn't have any instructions for receivers, just DVD players, VCRs, etc. I also don't remember seeing any Yamaha components displayed. What I'd like to do is be able to control my receiver volume with the TV remote to help deal with the varying audio levels discussed above (without having to juggle different remotes!)


----------



## hancox




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by ajhoop_
> *
> 
> 3. When I use either the TwinView or the Favorite Channels preview screens the audio output seems to cut off when I'm watching a non-digital channel. I then have to go back to a digital channel and redo the audio out selections. Am I doing something wrong here, or is this just some kind of bug with the tv?
> 
> 
> Thanks for all your help with this.*



Yup. Hate this, wondering if it's fixed in later models.


----------



## hancox




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by ajhoop_
> *
> 
> 3. When I use either the TwinView or the Favorite Channels preview screens the audio output seems to cut off when I'm watching a non-digital channel. I then have to go back to a digital channel and redo the audio out selections. Am I doing something wrong here, or is this just some kind of bug with the tv?
> 
> 
> Thanks for all your help with this.*



Yup. Hate this, wondering if it's fixed in later models.


----------



## BTV Mark

RE: audio out in Twinview mode


Is there a way to "anchor" the audio to the left side while "surfing" on the right side? In other words, I want to watch AND LISTEN to the program on the left while surfing "video only" on the right.


Mark


----------



## niggenz

So far, I am on page 17 of this thread (about half way). I just returned my Sanyo 30" WS that everyone is raving about in the other thread. Not that I was dissatisfied with the Sanyo (actually, I was very satisfied considering the $700 total cost of the unit), just that I have the opportunity to pick up the 960 for more than 50% off MSRP with a 3 year warranty. The only caveat is that the unit is a B-stock unit. Which is fine with me considering there seems to possibly be some issues with early runs of this model.


Right now, where I am at in the thread reveals that there are some issues with the tuner and to a lesser degree, the geometry of the unit. Seems from the thread that most of the units that exhibit this problem were made before August. My question is has this since been fixed in the later models.


----------



## niggenz

Oh, another question. One of the drawbacks of the Sanyo was that the ATSC tuner was integrated with the QAM tuner. And while I got perfect HD with Comcast cable, some of the OTA channels just aren't yet available on Comcast like WB and FOX. And to top it off, the Sanyo only memorized the channel scans for either HD cable for HD OTA, not both. So even if I wanted to run both through a switch box or something, I would have to go through the lengthy channel scan process each time.


I noticed that there are two separates RF inputs on the 960. Both of them are labeled for analog feeds. One is for NTSC/UHF and the other is for cable. Question is, are the ATSC and QAM tuners on separate inputs RF inputs or are the integrated into one RF input?


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by niggenz_
> *Oh, another question. One of the drawbacks of the Sanyo was that the ATSC tuner was integrated with the QAM tuner. And while I got perfect HD with Comcast cable, some of the OTA channels just aren't yet available on Comcast like WB and FOX. And to top it off, the Sanyo only memorized the channel scans for either HD cable for HD OTA, not both. So even if I wanted to run both through a switch box or something, I would have to go through the lengthy channel scan process each time.
> 
> 
> I noticed that there are two separates RF inputs on the 960. Both of them are labeled for analog feeds. One is for NTSC/UHF and the other is for cable. Question is, are the ATSC and QAM tuners on separate inputs RF inputs or are the integrated into one RF input?*



The inputs aren't analog or digital--they're both. The set internally routes the signals to the proper decoder. As a user, you select whichever RF input you want.


Mark


----------



## Mike3

Just like you use the TV/Video button to navigate through the different video inputs, you use the antenna button on the remote to alternate between the OTA (analog and HD) and the Cable signal (which includes HD and SD channels).


Those channels just have to be programmed once.


Mark - a simple work around to anchoring audio so to speak is to simply use a cable box or separate tuner and leave the focus on the TV's tuner. Surf with your cable box or VCR tuner; other than that I don't know if there's a way to reprogram the TV to work they way you want it to.


----------



## niggenz

Coolio. So I have finished this thread and for the most part, it sounds like if I get a set that doesn't have issues with the tuner I will be more than satisfied since i don't think the geom issues will be a deal breaker for me. For one, I am not that picky with little bits of distortion and two, it seems that some of the pincushioning can be fixed to some degree in the SM. In addition to my viewing distance, I should be A-OK. And it seems like later production runs have fixed most of the tuner problems. And since mine is going to be a B-stock unit, things should be kosher anyway.


I plan on using an HTPC with the 960 via HDMI. But there hasn't been too much talk about using this TV with an HTPC via HDMI. I know there are some overscan issues. Anyonce care to elaborate? Is there any fix that can be applied in the service menu without screwing with headache inducing Powerstrip settings/timings?


Lastly, I am going to pick up this unit next week through a Sony employee program for just under $1200 with a 3 year gaurantee (not warranty) out the door! So envy me guys!


I'll keep you all posted.


----------



## niggenz

Oops, nevermind, apparently there is an HTPC thread devoted for this TV =). Now to get to reading :{.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Mike3_
> *Just like you use the TV/Video button to navigate through the different video inputs, you use the antenna button on the remote to alternate between the OTA (analog and HD) and the Cable signal (which includes HD and SD channels).
> 
> 
> Those channels just have to be programmed once.
> 
> 
> Mark - a simple work around to anchoring audio so to speak is to simply use a cable box or separate tuner and leave the focus on the TV's tuner. Surf with your cable box or VCR tuner; other than that I don't know if there's a way to reprogram the TV to work they way you want it to.*



Thanks, Mike3. Of course! That's the power of this forum. I wouldn't have thought of this approach. I'll use the VCR. (


Thanks again!


Mark


----------



## 7thstranger




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by niggenz_
> *Lastly, I am going to pick up this unit next week through a Sony employee program for just under $1200 with a 3 year gaurantee (not warranty) out the door! So envy me guys!*



I too had the opportunity to purchase the 960 through the Sony employee program but I cancelled my order because while the discount was great, not having a service agreement with a local retailer was too risky, especially for this particular tv. I'm glad I didn't go through Sony because I am already on my 2nd set and again have issues. I would not assume that because you have a B stock item, that it will be error free because it has been checked out by a "tech." These guys turn on the sets and if they work, it's "certified." If there are dead spot, autoprogramming issues etc. that are not apparent to the tech, you will be buying a lemon. More importantly, if you have any problem with the set, you will have to lug this 200lb mammoth to the nearest Sony repair center. If there isn't one near you, sending it will not be fun. That being said, $1200 is a great deal but I would definetly consider the risks.


----------



## wayde

Hi. I'm debating between 2 TV's... I like both & it's going to be a hard decision. KDF55WE655 LCD-RP & the 34 XBR960.


Can people PM me with prices paid for the XBR960? (I'm getting quite a few responses from the 55WF655










Thanks for the feedback!


----------



## 7thstranger




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by wayde_
> *Hi. I'm debating between 2 TV's... I like both & it's going to be a hard decision. KDF55WE655 LCD-RP & the 34 XBR960.
> 
> 
> Can people PM me with prices paid for the XBR960? (I'm getting quite a few responses from the 55WF655
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the feedback!*



Not sure if this helps but the price of LCDs, as you may have heard, is set to drop considerably over the next few months. I went with the 960 because the picture quality cannot be matched. don't care what the DLP/LCD/Plasma junkies say about digitial to digital versus digital to analog, if you look at the reviews, the 960 is considered to be reference standard. If your room size is not too big and can accommodate the large depth, I would definetly go with the 960. In a few years, the price on LCDs will drop significantly and the technology will continue to improve whereas the 960 is probably at its peak and should last for many years to come w/o having to replace a lightbulb.


----------



## kezug

What is everyones opinion about watching standard cable (not digital) with the 34XBR960?


I just dont have the means to purchase digital cable or HD signal as I honestly think they are a bit overrated at the moment (sort of like the DLPs, plasmas, etc... but please that is not why I am posting).


Of course most of my viewing will be with widescreen DVDs, making the most of the 16:9 ratio, but when not viewing DVDs I will be watching standard cable. I am concerned that the image will be quite small, being that it wont be WS. The image will be around 25" diagonally...correct?


----------



## BloatedCorpse

..standard cable is passable at best. The digital channels look a bit better, but this tv is meant for HD and this is where it garners it's well deserved praise. DVD's look very good, I just had a friend watch some of the lord of the rings and he was amazed at the picture quality.


----------



## tennberg

I agree with BC:


I have an HD cable box connected to my 960 via component.


Analog channels (2-94) are okay to watch if there is no equivalent HD channel available. My local cable company, Comcast, is apprently going to do an analog-digital simulcast, so all analog channels will be broadcast as digital channels. This should help to improve picture quality greatly.


Digital channels (194+) are marginally better than the SD channels, in my view. I tend to avoid these as well unless there is something I *must* watch. Again, Comcast is apparently doing something with bandwidth here in Boston to improve the quality of these channels.


HD channels (15 or so available here in Boston) are where the set shines. For channels that are broadcasting in 720p or 1080i, the quality ranges from great to stunning, depending on the content being displayed and original filming, obviously.


DVDs also shine on this display. I currently use component from my DVD player, so I don't upconvert. However, DVDs look great to me, so I leave it at that.


----------



## tennberg

Does anyone know if there are any available software or firmware updates for the 960?


I recall someone mentioning on here that there was an update available via a Memory Stick, but two chats with Sony said nothing was available. They wouldn't even tell me how to check the firmware or software version on the set.


----------



## doretta

kezug,


Standard cable looks very good on my 960.


My experience is that this set needs a somewhat stronger signal than my previous Sony TV did. I had a marginal signal from the cable company and the picture looked pretty good on my old set and OK on this one. Once the cablecard was added to my 960 the picture looked pretty bad on analog channels. Stuck an amplifier on the cable and I get the best picture I've ever seen on analog channels.


Don't knock HD until you've tried it. If you buy a 960 and you are anywhere near HD broadcast towers (even 40-50 miles if you have line-of-sight) pick up a


----------



## HooDSide

Pardon my ignorance on this matter...I have the 960 for about 2 months now and love it.


I wound up purchasing an HDMI to DVI cable because I figured my HD cable box would have it's DVI slot enabled. But silly me, Time Warner doesn't want to do that, they'd rather I use the component. With this 100 dollar cable lying around I decided to see what the PC would look like on the television.


I am thinking maybe because the television isn't pixel based or something, but to say it didn't really look so hot is an understatement. I didn't expect good quality, but I thought, that since it's display type is 1280x whatever it would work.


Perhaps someone can give a quick explination, do LCD's and plasma screens have a higher resolution?


----------



## niggenz

Hoodsie,


When I get my 960, I intend to hook an HTPC up to it via HDMI. So what made it look so bad? Did you just run Windows on the TV or did you try DVD playback? I hear the unit has alot of overscan through the HDMI port. Could that have been the problem? What resolution did you have your HTPC set as?


BTW, I don't think the 960 does 720p natively as there are no tube TVs that can handle that resolution (keep in mind that those Princeton units aren't TVs). You might want to try 1080i.


----------



## HooDSide




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by niggenz_
> *Hoodsie,
> 
> 
> When I get my 960, I intend to hook an HTPC up to it via HDMI. So what made it look so bad? Did you just run Windows on the TV or did you try DVD playback? I hear the unit has alot of overscan through the HDMI port. Could that have been the problem? What resolution did you have your HTPC set as?
> 
> 
> BTW, I don't think the 960 does 720p natively as there are no tube TVs that can handle that resolution (keep in mind that those Princeton units aren't TVs). You might want to try 1080i.*



I did both...here is the exact setup. Off my Dell Laptop,which has am ATI 9700 mobility card, out of the DVI port I put it right to the HDMI port. Windows looked pretty crappy. Not so much the desktop but lettering was very un readable. DVD playback (through Power DVD) looked good. Only problem with the playback is that it didn't appear to output the anamorphic correctly. A 2.35 widescreen movie was not fixing itself to the set right...the letterbox bars were nice and thick.


Perhaps I didn't toy around with it enough, I might try tomorrow..but where you mention 720p and 1080i, is there a certain one I am supposed to use. Newb here.


----------



## niggenz

HooDSide,


Let's try discussing it over at this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...hreadid=423652 


It is the HTPC thread for this TV. Should allow for more focused discussion on the topic.


Also, I found this thread and while it is relating to a different Sony TV, there is alot of info here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...hreadid=479623 


-niggenz


----------



## 7thstranger

in wide screen mode, standard cable will fit the screen w/o too much distortion unless they have a tickertape at the bottom like cnn or espn. I think that certain standard cable channels look terrible but others are excellent. seems that the higher you go on the channels, the better it looks. Also, the xbr960 will conduct a channel search that will pick up channels that you are not aware of including many digitial channels. i get fox,nbc,abc,and cbs HD for free as well as some other movie channels but those are in 480i. Even if you do not get these channels through your cable provider, get an over the air antenna to pick up the local channels in HD. You will be amazed especially if you are a sports fan. well worth the extra bucks.


----------



## kezug

my setup is in the basement...I am wondering if the HD antenna would even work in this location


----------



## tennberg

So, I called Tweeter today to have a technician come out and check my 960. This is my second 960 (the first one had a dead spot in the center of the glass). This 960 has had three instances where the entire screen would display a green flash accompanied by a popping sound from the rear of the set. The entire screen would become washed out, and would take about a minute to come back to its original saturation and contrast.


Since then, the set doesn't seem as sharp anymore when displaying HD material. I believe there was another poster on here who mentioned this.


Last time, the technician called me, said he was an hour away, and wanted me to describe the problem to him. He said rather than him looking at it, he would set up a replacement. I'm hoping this happens again this time. It's very hard to reproduce this problem.


I'll post any updates.


----------



## BloatedCorpse

..good luck tennberg...I love the pq when the sony's work but I'm on my 2nd 960 after going thru 3 shoddy 34hs510's. My current 960 has much better geometry than the first set, but still has a tiny amount of distortion in the upper right-hand corner. This set is also noticeably darker than my previous set. I dare not try another one....


----------



## tennberg

BC:


I found my second 960 to have *much* better geometry than the first set, with no loss in PQ between the two. The second set still has a bit of distortion in the upper left corner with a slight bit of geometry issues. I'm hoping the third set (if they decide on a replacement) is even better with its geometry.


I just comfort myself knowing there is no perfect set yet. Find me a set larger than 34" that can display both 720p and 1080i natively with superb color saturation, true blacks, no motion artifacts or ghosting, and that doesn't weigh 200 pounds, and I have a bridge I'd love to sell ya


----------



## RCS24pro

I just recieved my 960 a couple of days ago and am pretty happy with it's quality out of the box. I did a quick Avia adjustment and it looks pretty darn good. There is, however, some "pincoushining" around the edges of the screen, which although it isn't horrible, still has bugged me enough to set up an appointment for a Sony tech to come out and try to fix the geometry, since it is covered under warrenty. So to get to the point, there are a few questions I was wondering if anyone out there with a 960 could answer:


1. How successful have Sony tech's been (for those of you who have had one out) with fixing your geometry issues?


2. I am waiting on my Sony DVP-NS975V DVD player to arrive still, so I have not yet watched any DVD's through the HDMI input. Has anyone used this combination yet, and if so, how has it worked out for you? Do you let the tv do the upconverting to 1080i or the player? I've heard that generally the tv's do a better job, but I was just wondering if anyone's experimented a little bit...(and yes, I have read CNET's review of the DVD player along with the 960....but somebody else's experience would be nice).


3. HD television is not going to be available to me through Comcast until early 2005, but when it is available, would you reccomend that I use a Cablecard and let the 960's tuner do the job, or get the standard Comcast set top box? Does one work better than the other?


Thanks for your help


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by kezug_
> *my setup is in the basement...I am wondering if the HD antenna would even work in this location*




That's a good question. Unless you are close to the transmitter(s), it probably will not work. The tuner does need a good strong signal in order to do it's work.


Mark


----------



## SonyR

Go to the following for a nice real user review of the DVP-NS975V dvd player with the xbr960.
agoraquest.com/viewtopic.php?topic=17434&forum=35 

After reading this and then learning that the real hi-def DVD players will be coming out late 2005, I opted for the DVP-NS775V instead. What a stunning picture on my XBR960! Like hi-def already, just using the component hookups. Very compatible as its Sony to Sony. Plays every disc format I put into it. A added unexpected bonus is the great sound from this player. Only paid $116. And no hdmi cables to add to the cost.

This replaces a old Toshiba DVD player.


----------



## JoeKing

hi, I have some assorted questions and comments about the 960 as well as a comparison between the 960 and the 34 inch XBR800 I used to own. here goes...


34XBR960 compared to the other fine dot pitch models: I have seen the XBR 910 and 960 side by side at many different places and the 960 appears much clearer for some reason. The 960 is also MUCH brighter as well because I maxed the contrast on both sets on VIVID mode to test this. I am assuming that both sets have the same tube but the 960 has been tweaked thru the sets electronics or something. I see the 960 and the XS955 side by side as well sometimes and to be honest the 955 looks better more times than not although sometimes the 960 looks like it is on par. I am assuming that because the 955s are newer and when shown next to the older batch of 960s that might not have been tweaked as well in the factory, the 955 has a clearer image.


Comparing fine lines on 480 material between new and old XBRs: Although the 34XBR has a super fine dot pitch and there are not any noticable vertical lines like there are with the 800, the 960 has an issue that I haven't heard about too much about on this forum and I would love to hear people's opinions about this... Because the 960 has finer lines, there is a visible gap between horizontal lines when viewing 480p material that only uses half of the TVs resolution. I find this just as annoying as seeing the vertical lines on the 800. This can be solved by hooking up an interlaced player(like my RP91) and setting the TVs scaler to Interlaced but I doubt many people do that or would prefer that to a more solid progressive image. Also, I dont know if I will see a stairstepping effect on Interlaced like I did when I watched DVDs with my 800 TVs scaler set to Interlaced instead of Cinemotion. I am very curious about what other people think about this.


Brightness and blooming compared to 34XBR800: I got used to the bright image on the 34XBR800 and set the contrast to around 65 percent in VIVID which is very bright. I am happy to say that the 34XBR960 adjusted to the point where no blooming was present (around 35 on VIVID), the image looked exactly as bright as the 34HS420(simular to 34XBR800) next to it tweaked to my liking. That means I won't have any problems with the set's brightness.


Tweak for the 960 that I don't hear enough about: Adjusting BLK to 0 on VIVID mode so that you can get all of the shadow detail that you get while in PRO mode. This also allowed me to turn the brightness down around 10 clicks and actually gain MUCH more detail. Anybody who tries this tweak will love it. I think it will be especially valuable since it will allow you to get a brighter image without boosting the TVs settings and causing blooming.


Red push: I adjusted the red push on the 800 though the service menu and agree that the picture looked MUCH more natural. However, after toggling the color axis between standard and monitor I found that the monitor color axis looked too green. What do you guys think? Even though the monitor color axis was green, I still prefered it to the standard one with red push though.


More comparisons between new and old Sony XBRs/Recommendations: I think that if you have a 34XBR800/34HS510 you should keep your set because the image sometimes appears a little bit more crisp when compared with the 960 and even though the 960 is more solid and HD looks slightly better, it's not a big enough improvement imo to warrant spending money to upgrade. Also, because the 34XBR800/510 is big, the vertical lines are not noticable from a reasonable viewing distance so you would not benefit from the fine dot pitch as much. However, I think that anybody with an older 30' or 32' inch XBR would see a big improvement if they switched to the 955 versions of their sets because with the older 30' and 32' XBRs the vertical lines are very noticable when looking at the set up close and this would be eliminated with the super-fine dot pitch. Also, because those are smaller sets, you will not see the horizontal gap that I mentioned earlier with the 34' 955/960. Now here is what I think about the 36' models, the 36XS955 looks MUCH cleaner/clearer than the 36 non-fine dot pitch models although the image seems to be too dark even after the contrast is maxed out in VIVID mode. Also, because this set is so big, there is a HUGE gap between horizontal scan lines when viewing 480p material in full screen mode. It is hard to say if I would upgrade to the 36xs955 if I had the older model 36' incher. thanx for reading this and I would appreciate any replies, comments, or questions.


----------



## hancox

BUMP


This is a great review


----------



## 7thstranger

Has anyone had their xbr960 professionally calibrated? If so, was it worth it (please be honest!) or do you think we can get acceptable results w/ DVE or Avia?


----------



## Mike3

RCS24pro


Cablecard is nice and it will function as an additional tuner so that if you are a recording from your cable box, you can still watch HD programming via cable or if you want to forgo the 5 or 10 for the cable box, you can simply use the card which should be free of a monthly rental. The cablebox (STB) is nice because you can get on-demand and DVR if you want.


----------



## Rosser

Well after 3 months of deciphering all the info on HD T.V.s I've narrowed it down to either the Sony KD-34XBR960 or the Sony KD-36XS955.


I would greatly appreciate any user comments on the 2 T.V.s


All the reviews of checked ie... consumer reports, various home theater review forums, and print magazines give these T.V.s excellent reviews.


PQ is the most important feature; that is why I have shied away from the other technologies; to much uncertainty. Would have liked a little bigger screen - but these will do.


How do both T.V.s handle the various picture menus ( zoom, normal, movie. wide, etc.. )???


This forum has been great, Thanks


----------



## mikeny




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by 7thstranger_
> *Has anyone had their xbr960 professionally calibrated? If so, was it worth it (please be honest!) or do you think we can get acceptable results w/ DVE or Avia?*



I was happy with my post-calibration (ISF) and for me it was worth it. I tried using Avia but I didn't feel confident that I was making improvements. I definitely am too new at this and this was too much of an investment for me to screw up the tv in the service menu. Statistically, the IRE levels were drastically changed in the service menu to the point that that they 'passed'.


The calibration improved Satellite "480P" on the S-Video input. It made that type of source tolerable. It had been horrible. The gray scale was obviously fine tuned. Flesh tones became realistic. Honestly, I never bother to switch inputs anymore and just watch SD through HDMI. It's fine. (relatively speaking to HD)


OTA HD/Satellite HD was improved and DVD (Component) as well. I had already been blown away by those sources but it did seem better post-calibration.


It's up to you, of course. I would recommend the service, if you plan on keeping the set for a while.


Good luck.


----------



## PGHammer




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by RJB in Phila_
> *The 960's cablecard allows you to eliminate the set top box from the cable company, right? This assumes they support the cablecard, which I believe Comcast will be doing soon.
> 
> 
> If this is so, I find this feature of the 960 to be a great advantage.*



If you have the Comcast HD DVRs (especially if you can get the Motorola DCT-6412), then you also have the CableCARD option. In areas with Moto STBs, it's the Moto CableCARD as well. I also have Comcast as my cable company, and they are doing CableCARD installs in any area that the DVRs are available (all of Greater Washington Metro serviced by Comcast, without exception).


NOTE: CableCARDs do NOT support OnDEMAND or PPV ordering. (Yet.)


----------



## foxfan

After months and months of delays, I finally have my XBR960!


It was made in November so no tuner problems as were reported. I haven't heard any pops yet. The problems I'm having right now though are geometry related. I know that it is impossible to have a perfect set and was expecting some minor things, but there is quite a lot of downward bowing in the top left corner, and a little upward bowing in the bottom right corner. However, there is no bowing when watching 4:3 material. I'd like to get these geometry problems adjusted eventually since there is no way that I'm exchanging the set after all the trouble I went through to get it up the stairs in my house.


Tested firewire with my JVC 40K, records perfectly. The only thing is that you have to hit "record" with your JVC remote. The Sony won't send it the "record" command for some reason.


Anyhow, has anyone been able to adjust the geometry problems themselves without screwing up the set of throwing the corners out of focus?


----------



## shyguy3763

I just got my xbr960 today and even though I am satisfied in many ways I was wondering if someone can give me step by step instructions on how to address the red push issue and how to fix the settings cause it seems too dark also. Is this very complicated for a complete newbie? Or is calibration my only help?


----------



## Hiloboy

Foxfan,


I assume you're using the firewire out from the tv to record with the JVC -- Can you record the premium HD channels or only over the air channels? I was thinking about getting a JVC recorder too but don't much about firewire recording. I have a separate cable box (with no firewire) but would be willing to get the cablecard if that's what I need to tape stuff.


----------



## RJB in Phila




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by shyguy3763_
> *I just got my xbr960 today and even though I am satisfied in many ways I was wondering if someone can give me step by step instructions on how to address the red push issue and how to fix the settings cause it seems too dark also. Is this very complicated for a complete newbie? Or is calibration my only help?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *



I am at work and I don't have the manual, but if I recall correctly, a change to the monitor setting gets rid of the red push. I also recommend the pro setting and then a lightening of the picture to your taste and room conditions. Again, from memory, I think it's the picture setting that lightens it.


Check the manual for detailed directions. The on screen menus make it pretty simple.


----------



## shyguy3763

Thanks RJB I just noticed that today but I'd like to fix this issue with the picture being dark.I remember reading something on this thread about turning something up from 13 to 15 in the service menu but I don't recall what or how.Any help people?


----------



## rekalil

My 960 arrived with a very dark picture, because Sony had set the black level (brightness) very low for some unknown reason. Using a standard calibration DVD, Digital Video Essentials, I set the black level properly, which required setting the brightness control to 54. The picture then looked fine.

The red push can be eliminated entirely by going to "advanced" under video setup, and then to "color axis." Then select "monitor."

Set the color temperature to "warm." Of the available options, the "warm" setting best matches the desired 6500K grayscale.

Ron


----------



## Geise

Does the xbr960 have horizontal and vertical poitioning and resizing in the service menu?


----------



## shyguy3763

I still have high hopes for my xbr960,I refuse to send it back unless someone can recommend something better?







so I was wondering if anyone can also recommend a good calibrator? I live in New York.

P.S. I don't think it's good enough to just go to the site and choose blindly,no?


----------



## mikeny

 http://www.isftv.com/ 


Call Kevin Miller.


----------



## DKSF




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by silvertone_
> *I've had this set since August. When I turned it on this evening it had no piture, tried turning it on and off several times with no luck. The Timer/Standby led would flash for a few seconds then it would go out.
> 
> 
> I decided it to unplug it and plug it back in and the picture came back.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> 
> Thanks.*



I got mine last month, and over the weekend, the same thing happened to mine. No picture, sound, nothing. Tried unplugging the set to "reset" it, but no luck.


Service coming to take a look tomorrow. Bought the set directly from Sony, through an Employee Purchase Plan, I think this might turn out to be a mistake. Pretty much on your own from a service perspective, warranty coverage applies, but it is serviced through third-parties.


Anybody have any thoughts on what's going on with it? Hopefully it'll be back up and running before the Orange Bowl.


----------



## shyguy3763

Thanks mikeny I just hope it is worth it. But I just don't know what to do,I'm considering returning my xbr960 and maybe checking out Toshiba's 34XF84 the blacks are just too crushing on this xbr,watching dark movies like "The matrix" or "The crow" I can barely see any detail.


----------



## Geise

I personally found the first and second matrix movies to have low black detail on any display...


----------



## JoeKing

hi, I have adjusted my 960 to the point where I am satisfied in every way and I am very technical/picky.


I can make the image bright and clear, ect without blooming and very small amount of edge enhancement.... I have a Panasonic DVD player so I could adjust the black level to either darker or lighter... I chose lighter so that I wouldnt have to boost the set's brightness too much to get a bright image.


I preferred STANDARD mode because the colors were accurate compared to VIVID, the picture is extremely bright compared to MOVIE and PRO, and the picture isn't overly "enhanced" like VIVID


Picture: 38

Brightness: 33

Color: 30

Sharpness: 29

Color Temp: Warm

VM: Off

DRC Palette: 15(reality), 1(clarity)

Color Axis(red push adjustment): Monitor


To tame internal VM, I adjusted the following in the service menu:

PROV=0

F1LV=0

LTLV=1 (I found turning this adjustment completely off left dark silouettes too soft)


LTMD=0

CTLV=0


adjust BLK to 0 to get the shadow detail that is in the PRO mode. This will also give you a brighter picture.


I then reduced overscan. This brightened the picture because the scan lines were closer.


I adjusted MIDE to 23. then adjusted MHYE to 4.


----------



## Waterbug




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by JoeKing_
> *
> 
> I can make the image bright and clear, ect without blooming and very small amount of edge enhancement.... I have a Panasonic DVD player so I could adjust the black level to either darker or lighter... I chose lighter so that I wouldnt have to boost the set's brightness too much to get a bright image.*



that would have been a bad choice there. By doing that, you loses blacker than black signal...because HDTV black level is at 0 IRE, or 16 shade black, while American NTSC black level is at 7.5 IRE, which is at 16 shade black....by doing your method, you looses black detail, because the the 7.5 IRE is not 16 shade black level since hdtv is 0 IRE for 16 shade. by doing your method, the 16 shade have been move up to 32 shade I believe...



> *Quote:*
> *
> 
> 
> I preferred STANDARD mode because the colors were accurate compared to VIVID, the picture is extremely bright compared to MOVIE and PRO, and the picture isn't overly "enhanced" like VIVID
> 
> 
> Brightness: 33*


*
*The Sony TV brightness were purposedly set too dark...even though its default setting on the OSM is in the middle, it's actually darker and crushing black than it should be. I have this 20" sony tv, that in service menu, it have this SBRT that I adjust it from 12 to 14 and it looks good on the OSM where the brightness is set to the middle. You can either adjust the brightness in the service menu by turning it up or the OSM from 31 to around 38...



> *Quote:*
> *
> 
> 
> To tame internal VM, I adjusted the following in the service menu:
> 
> PROV=0
> 
> F1LV=0
> 
> LTLV=1 (I found turning this adjustment completely off left dark silouettes too soft)
> 
> 
> LTMD=0
> 
> CTLV=0
> 
> 
> adjust BLK to 0 to get the shadow detail that is in the PRO mode. This will also give you a brighter picture.
> 
> 
> I then reduced overscan. This brightened the picture because the scan lines were closer.
> 
> 
> I adjusted MIDE to 23. then adjusted MHYE to 4.*


*
*pretty interesting...i haven't seen or try PROV or F1LV yet.


but the LTLV, i set it to 0 just like Pro mode, since when i check the Avia resolution chart, the circle in the center looks more round and smooth with no jaggies than when set the LTLV to 1...shrug, maybe i have to recheck to see if setting to 1 makes more sense or to 0...because if my memory serve me correctly, setting it to 0 looks more accurate and the black and white vertical lines looks more even on the resolution chart...


I haven't try this MIDE or MHYE, maybe i have, but i am not sure what are they? My guess would be screen size and positioning?


----------



## shyguy3763

I am a complete newbie and reading all this looks like rocket science to me







I feel frightened to dwell into the service menu.What are the chances of me messing up the TV since I have no knowledge? Or would it be best if I just let the pros do it and get it calibrated? Will it be better than the Toshiba 34XF84?


----------



## JoeKing

Water: MIDE and MHYE are to tune the sets edge enhancement. MIDE adjusts 30 preset edge enhancements at once(the MID5 adjustments). After that go to MHYE(one of the MID5 adjustments) and turn it from 7 to 4. This will give a much more solid/detailed image.


ok, I forgot to mention that I purposefully have my DVD player hooked up thru INTERLACED. If I use any DVD player in PROGRESSIVE, the image is slightly softer than with my RP-91 DVD player in interlaced and you have to turn the brightness up a LOT. That is why my brightness is so low compared to most ppl prolly.


k, this is what I know about getting shadow detail and the methods I used in order to take advantage of my sets deep blacks and still retain ALL shadow detail. I first popped in the VE DVD, set my TV to MOVIE setting, put up the brightness test pattern. Adjusted my TVs brightness according to the pattern(32). Looked at all of my DVDs. I dont live and die by test patterns so I adjusted the brightness to 34 because I felt that with that adjustment all of my movies looked excellent. (Blade 1 was adjusted perfectly and the movie was not too dark while Reservoir Dogs didn't look super washed out). Next I went to Standard mode. Turned BLK off. I chose to keep the GAMMA adjustments where they were(all at 4) because I enjoyed the bright image and I didn't see any lost shadow detail like with the vivid mode(all GAMMA adjustments are set to 12). Then I adjusted the brightness to match exactly with the brightness in movie mode by toggling back and forth between the two modes(ended up being at 33 although 34 is OK too). My brightness is set 1 or 2 clicks too high if anything.


This is what I did with my XBOX(very simular to any 480P DVD player I have used as far as brightness is concerned). I had no choice but to look at my XBOX thru progressive because it is the sharper image. I had a problem tho because I had to turn the brightness VERY high in able to see everything. I adjusted UBOF to 7 just because it bothers me that I had to adjust the brightness to around 75%. Because I had to max out the brightness so much I had a slightly blue tinge to the picture(sorry if I am letting ppl see this who havent noticed it b4). To fix this I went and adjusted the red, and green GAMM adjustments to 3, then left the blue GAMM at 2. This might sound pretty silly to some people but I tried all different ratios with the GAMM settings and this worked great and made me much happier with the picture.


I just explained this very fast, if anybody has any questions lemme kno and I will answer. I hope that anybody who is familiar with the service menu gives some of my suggestions a shot. thanx


----------



## JoeKing

shy: I gotta say that you can really mess up your television by messin with the service menu but I am sure you know that. Just google it and learn about it. When you feel comfortable then go for it. That's what I did. Don't adjust anything unless u kno bout it first. I would suggest u do it yourself but once u r comfortable with things n that u check some of the 34xbr spreadsheets on the service menu that are out there. I got my TV looking 40% better(no joke) once I learned how it operated and how to better optimize it. A lot of the ppl found out what most of the adjustments do and I am sure they dont mind telling u.


----------



## Waterbug

Okay, this is my setting on my Sony HS510...


Video setting: Pro

picture: 32 nothces out of 64. (i don't know how to adjust it, but i find 32 acceptable.)

brightness: 38 out of 64

color: 32

tint: 32

sharpness: 18 (again, no clue how to adjust it accuratedly.)

ClearEdge VSM: Off

Color Temp: Warm (man, it depends on model i guess, some model, neutral looks better)

DRC: Cinemotion


Service Menu:


In group "2170P-4"

-LRGB from 3 to 0 - tones down the on-screen display intensity/brightness.

-GAMM adjust it to 1 for Vivid, Standard or better adjust it to 0. Adjust Movie and Pro to 0 if it's not in 0 already. (Video setting dependable. ie: Vivid, Standard, Movie, Pro and Input Dependable, so adjust it to all inputs and video setting and 0 for Pro.)

-?BLK from 0 to 3 (this gives great depth to the black level)? Maybe leave it on 0 looks more accurate.


In the group "2103-1 I set

-?ATPD from 0 to 3? - which improves the black levels. Maybe leave it on 0 looks more accurate.


In the group "3D-Comb" I changed...

-VAPI to 0

-VAPG to 0...in Pro mode -which is what I use- (but it is specific to all modes ie: Vivid, Standard, Movie, Pro) which is supposed to give the display a little better resolution.


In group "2170P-3"

-go to menu LTLV and adjust it to 0 in all picture modes (ie: Vivid, Standard, Movie, Pro) this turns off all Edge Enhancements and do this to all 7 video inputs too.


----------



## smirnoffski

Ok folks, I have been purposely avoiding this thread since I got my 960 so I could enjoy it for what it was and not having to search continually for issues specified on this thread. So here are my impressions of my 960.


I was one of the first to get this set in early July. My TV was part of the first batch produced. It was initially either the 960 or a 37 in Panny plasma. And boy am I glad i went with the XBR. The PQ on this thing is fantastic and I have not even calibrated it, just adjusted using the DVE disc.

I watch HD a la the integrated the decoder through Comcast Cable and a Denon progressive scan 2200 DVD player hooked up through component.


The only issue I have is slight geometry distortion, again very slight and not noticeable if you are not really looking for it. Here's hoping nothing changes.


6 Months with my 960 and I have sooo become accustomed to the crisp picture that I can no longer stand in front of plasmas and projection sets without my eyes hurting.

Case in point, I recently walked into CC to see that the Panny plasma i had initially intended to buy was priced 800 less than what it was in July. I almost had buyer's remorse until I looked up to see the panny display.

I noticed screen door effect galore, then i switched my eyes to the HD plasmas hoping that this effect to alleviated but I still noticed SDE on all the HD plasmas, not as much as the ED but incomparable to the complete lack of it on my 960. I had to step about 10 feet away from a 37 plasma, and even further from a 42 for the screen door effect to eradicate.

I sit 6 feet away from my 960 and notice nothing, thus am getting a relatively larger picture with my 34in 960 than I would with even a 37 or 42 plasma.


Overall, I am very satisfied with this set so far as no issues have troubled.

Besides the bulk factor (this thing isn't gonna move for a while) I highly recommend this set.


----------



## kcn823

Is their away to go directly to one of the video inputs without having to go thru all of the ones before it? It's not very convenient when going from the antenna to video input 5.


----------



## mikeny

Unfortunately no but you could go into "Label Video Inputs" and at least set up the ones you don't use as "Skip". That at least shortens your trip to component Video 5.


That is of course only if there are any that you don't use.


----------



## kcn823

thanks, that actually helps alot.


----------



## Gage33

CC also has the XS955 on sale for $1,799 until 1/1/05. What makes you guys go $300 higher for the XBR?


----------



## shyguy3763

I for one, think the trusurround sound on the XBR is AWESOME , I'm not sure if this feature is available on the XS series


----------



## Gage33

I did a comparison on the Sony webiste between the XS955 34" and the XBR960 34" and here are the only differences:


iLink

XBR: 3 total

XS: 0 total


Dimensions

XBR: 39 1/8" x 25 5/8" x 23 7/8"

XS: 39 1/8" x 30 5/8" x 25"


Weight

XBR: 196 lbs

XS: 205 lbs


Parts Warranty

XBR: 2 Year/2 Years for Tube

XS: 1 Year/2 Years for Tube


Labor Warranty

XBR: 2 years

XS: 90 days


Yes they both have TruSurround.

One thing is I think the Xs955 may not have PiP.


To me, the XBR is not worth it unless you really need iLink. As far as I can tell, the PQ should be identical between these two sets. You can always buy a cheaper warranty from where ever you bought the TV.


I think I am going with the XS.


----------



## TheInvisibleGods




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Gage33_
> *I did a comparison on the Sony webiste between the XS955 34" and the XBR960 34" and here are the only differences:
> 
> 
> iLink
> 
> XBR: 3 total
> 
> XS: 0 total
> 
> 
> Dimensions
> 
> XBR: 39 1/8" x 25 5/8" x 23 7/8"
> 
> XS: 39 1/8" x 30 5/8" x 25"
> 
> 
> Weight
> 
> XBR: 196 lbs
> 
> XS: 205 lbs
> 
> 
> Parts Warranty
> 
> XBR: 2 Year/2 Years for Tube
> 
> XS: 1 Year/2 Years for Tube
> 
> 
> Labor Warranty
> 
> XBR: 2 years
> 
> XS: 90 days
> 
> 
> Yes they both have TruSurround.
> 
> One thing is I think the Xs955 may not have PiP.
> 
> 
> To me, the XBR is not worth it unless you really need iLink. As far as I can tell, the PQ should be identical between these two sets. You can always buy a cheaper warranty from where ever you bought the TV.
> 
> 
> I think I am going with the XS.*




Oh, but you actually have not watched an XBR960 in HD??...you must SEE first , then decide....in my opinion....if you can that is...!!


----------



## Gage33




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by TheInvisibleGods_
> *Oh, but you actually have not watched an XBR960 in HD??...you must SEE first , then decide....in my opinion....if you can that is...!!*



They have the same exact tube and to the best of my knowledge, PQ is identical on these sets.


----------



## pdroth

Just got this TV yesterday and am working through all of the settings and options, but there is one part I'm having trouble finding info about: i.Link


From what I've found this is basically IEEE1394 Firewire. Other than a camcorder, are there any other uses for this input i.e. cable STB?


----------



## PublicSectorTech

yeah, firewire is starting to crop up on cable and satellite STBs. With a DVHS player or VirtualDVHS, you could (theoretically) record in HD using the i.Link. However, I'd wager that 5C copy protection will prevent this on premium channels like HBO.


You could also feed pristine digital into the i.Link from your DV camcorder or DVHS player.


----------



## pdroth

So is it only 1-way? i.e. from a camcorder to TV?


Reason I'm asking is that I have the opportunity to buy a very good DVD recorder with Firewire but not sure if I will be able to record from the HD signal that the set is picking up to the DVD. The product page says it has IEEE1394/i.Link, but don't know if it means it can only take a signal from a camcorder to burn to disc.


----------



## |3iggs

I have recorded OTA HD content from my 960 to my mac using the iLink interface, so it is definately 2-way.


----------



## jimglynn

Hi all-

I just took delivery of my 960 yesterday from CC. Comcast HD (Motorola) set up. This TV is incredible! I have changed the video to monitor setting and made a few slight changes to improve the picture. I want to get the DVE disc this weekend, but if anyone out there can tell me their current settings it would be really appreciated. I want to have the best picture possible and I can see that this forum is full of some very experienced contributors. Thanks.

Jim


----------



## pdroth

I received mine on Monday and it might sound crazy but the picture is looking better each night when I watch. Maybe it's a burn-in thing, or I really am crazy.


The picture was very dark and I did adjust the settings a bit, but I'm going to wait a week or so until I use the Avia disk to calibrate it a little better.


I'm sure others in this forum will give us the same advice.


----------



## jimglynn

I think you are right about the burn-in thing. My picture looks better today than yesterday. The non-HD channels now look almost as good as the HDs looked yesterday, and the HDs look liquid.


----------



## mikeny

This is probably in some FAQ somewhere but I thought ask anyway:


Someone in another forum where I was reading posted that since the XBR960 was a direct-view tube, it was therfore analog. The point was that this is why the set is better suited for component output vs. DVI/HDMI. I thought that it was digital all the way. I'd appreciate if someone cleared this up.


Along these lines, I've primarily used DVI to HDMI and then HDMI as I recently got the HR10-250. When my 1st HR10-250 came with a dead HDMI port, I was surprisingly pleased with the component output. It seemed much brighter.


Although I've gone back to HDMI, I feel like I might it want it a little brighter now at times. The strange thing is that this HDMI input was calibrated and the component input on Video 6 was not. I had at least made the main menu settings the same on Video 6 as Video 5. Video 5 had been calibrated for DVD. Don't get me wrong it's great picture on HDMI. Maybe it's just the Law and Order 'shows' being extremely dark where I'm observing this. HDMI seems bright enough on HD Net and Discovery HD Theater.


What opinions do you guys have in comparing your component to HDMI output for HD?


----------



## foxfan

What do most of you guys keep the brightness at on your sets? For me, the minimum I need to set it at is 50, which seems way above the 31 default setting. I'm hoping it's not a problem.


----------



## Waterbug

the brightness on my model (34HS510) is set at 38 out of 64...


Foxfan,


maybe you need to control the room lightning. If its too sunny or too bright in the room, the picture might look a little too dark for you...


----------



## foxfan

Actually, this was a setting I set with the room completely dark, using both the THX optimizer and the DVE disc.


From what I've heard, the standard HS is brighter than the super-fine-pitch models.


----------



## Trumbore

Several people have asked about switching the 960's video input directly to a specific source. This is indeed possible if you have an appropriate programmable remote control.


After getting my 960, I bought the Sony RM-AV2500 universal remote control. I can't post links here, so go to remotecentral-DOT-com and search for av2500 to read a great review). It does a nice job of operating my 960, a Phillips Tivo, a Toshiba DVD player and a Sony receiver and VCR. While it isn't perfect, I can strongly recommend this remote.


Page 14 of the AV2500's manual (go to docs-DOT-sony-DOT-com and search for RM-AV2500) describes a method for switching a Sony TV's input directly to a specific source. The component code 8077 is the preset code number for the input select of a Sony TV. By setting one of your universal remote's component's to use this code, you program its number keys (0-9) to select different video inputs on the TV. 0 selects the TV tuner, 1-6 select inputs VIDEO1-6, and 7-8 select inputs HD1-3.


Note that this code may only be understood by Sony remote controls. In fact, it may only work on their newest and most powerful remotes. RemoteCentral describes another method that you may want to try for selecting inputs (page 11 of the review mentioned above). Here, the user holds the Input key down while pressing one of the number keys to access a specific video input. Again, this operation may only work on certain Sony remotes.


I hope this helps!


Ben


----------



## pdroth

I have my cable split between the STB and the TV (Cable input).


When using the built-in tuner, a diagnostics option is available through the menu. I was wondering if anyone can tell me what an acceptable level of SNR is and what AGC is. I get readings of 32-34 for SNR and 17-19 for AGC. Is this a good quality signal? I'm wondering if having the line split 3x without a booster is giving me the best HD possible from Time Warner without using their crappy box.


Sorry if this is posted somewhere else - can't seem to find the answer if it is.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by pdroth_
> *I have my cable split between the STB and the TV (Cable input).
> 
> 
> When using the built-in tuner, a diagnostics option is available through the menu. I was wondering if anyone can tell me what an acceptable level of SNR is and what AGC is. I get readings of 32-34 for SNR and 17-19 for AGC. Is this a good quality signal? I'm wondering if having the line split 3x without a booster is giving me the best HD possible from Time Warner without using their crappy box.
> 
> 
> Sorry if this is posted somewhere else - can't seem to find the answer if it is.*



pdroth: I asked some of the same questions much earlier on this thread, and got only a few comments. I then bought the Sony service manual, again coming up with no informationl. Finally, I went back to the store where I bought the set and asked both sales and service people about it. No one had any information. I went to the floor model and checked the signal strength it was getting, and it was about the same readings I get.


Obviously, there are specs, but I haven't been able to get any information.


My set's picture drops out at a S/N of between 23 and 25. Normally, the signal it gets is about S/N of 29 and AGC of 10-15. I am usually able to maintain signal lock for 1-2 hours before a momentary drop out, so I'm happy about my reception.


Mark


----------



## Greg Samsa

My new set is being delivered tomorrow (woohoo!). Somebody mentioned to me that I should leave the set on for 3 days(?) after I first receive it to alleviate any problems with dust in the tube assembly? Obviously not on a static picture.







Any opinions on this?


I would also like to see the settings people are using. I see a a few posted but am certainly curious as to what the consensus opinion is. I plan on calibrating with HVE as well.


----------



## BTV Mark

Greg, enjoy the new set!!


re: leaving it on: It's a good idea, because it lets everything stabilize. I think the specific recommendation is to leave it on to cumulate enough hours to completely "burn in" prior to having the set professionally calibrated. I don't believe these hours need to be consecutive, and of course you're right--don't leave it on a static image.


But there's another reason to give the set a thorough "workout." And that is to see if it suffers an early failure. (Electronic devices tend to either fail early or run a very long time.) So run it a lot to be sure everything's operating. Also, test the memory card and firewire ports if you can, to be sure they're operating. (You don't want to find out 2 years from now that these never worked!)


Mark


----------



## HooDSide

Is it possible to output video via the firewire ports. My laptop has a firewire port and wanted to capture video digitally. I have been using an analog setup with my camcorder, and I am losing quality all over the place.


??


----------



## Greg Samsa

So, I unpacked this mother yesterday and got everything set up. They are not kidding with this thing - it is a heavy sucker! But, WOW - what an amazing image. I am using the Momitsu 880DX with a DVI-HDMI cable and upscaling to 720p. There are times it looks like you can almost put your hand through the screen!


I have two questions though. If I am using the Momitsu to upscale to 720p, should the DRC mode be set to Progressive or Cinemotion? I have it set to progressive now and it looks great but I'm not sure. What exactly does 'Cinemotion' do?


Also, I have some slight geometry bowing in the top left and bottom left of the screen. On 16x9 material it is really not noticable, but on 1:2.35 material you can see the black bars turn slightly in at the corners. Is there a way in the service menu to correct this? It only affects the left corners. I will probably wait a month or so to let the set "burn in" before I go messing with service menu options, but I would like to correct it.


Thanks, Greg


----------



## Renagade

I've had my 960 for about a month now and the only problem I have is also with the geometry and am looking into checking out in the service menue to see if it can help if possible. How exactly do you get into the service menue?


----------



## Bryston

Yes you can adjust this, but it will never be axactly perfect. Do a search for the official xbr910 thread, and you will find the info you need to help you cal it. Someone posted an Excel spread sheet of the service manual with good descriptions of the adjustments. It maybe somewhere in this thread also. Make sure to copy the default setting's down, as the geometry settings take some time to figure out, and you may need to take a step back at some point.


----------



## Bryston

Check out this thread

http://archive.avsforum.com/avs-vb/s...hreadid=368718


----------



## MykeeD

We've had our XBR960's (one for me...one for the wife and kids) for 3 and a half weeks now and other than slight geometry issues in the upper left and right corners...these damn TV sets are AWESOME!!!! Mines is hooked up via Cox cable card while theirs has a COX STB with built in DVR. I've tweaked the PQ referencing quite a few recommendations from this thread and without throwing out more superlatives of praise...besides the great deal I got from Bernie's here in CT, let's just say this was one of the best purchases I've ever made.


P.S. In order for me to get mines...HAD to get THEM one too.


----------



## jimglynn

I had a chance to use the DVE disc the other night and am happy to say almost all my settings were spot on. Since I have Comcast HD with a Motorola box, I called Comcast to see if they broadcast a test signal but unfortunately they do not. My geometry is fine and I consider myself lucky not to have to go into the service menu, yet. The picture is really amazing when the source was shot in HD as well. Am I missing something? Is it common to be able to get a great picture from DVE and the user menu?

Thanks,

Jim


----------



## Beaver8tr




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Greg Samsa_
> *
> 
> I have two questions though. If I am using the Momitsu to upscale to 720p, should the DRC mode be set to Progressive or Cinemotion? I have it set to progressive now and it looks great but I'm not sure. What exactly does 'Cinemotion' do?
> 
> 
> Thanks, Greg*



If I remember correctly DRC is disabled on a 720p signal, so you should not be able to select Progressive or Cinemotion. Cinemotion is used for Film based material, it engages a 3/2 pulldown to convert from 24 frames per second to 30 frames per second. Progressive is good for Video based material, Freinds or Seinfeld for example. If your are close to the TV you may actually prefer interlaced.


----------



## Dunedain

Why does a top-of-the-line CRT t.v. like the XBR960 have geometry that's off on quite a few of the sets? Also, does

anyone know if Sony is aware of this problem, and has it been fixed on all new production XBR960 t.v.'s?


----------



## triumph66

That's a very good question and is the only reason I haven't bought an XBR960 already.


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Dunedain_
> *Why does a top-of-the-line CRT t.v. like the XBR960 have geometry that's off on quite a few of the sets? Also, does
> 
> anyone know if Sony is aware of this problem, and has it been fixed on all new production XBR960 t.v.'s?*



Dunedain:


I don't think it's so much a fault of Sony as much a fault of aperture grill CRT technology. The one benefit of plasma or LCD technology is better geometry, though these two technologies have their own list of faults. However, when compared to other widescreen CRTs I've seen, Sony actually comes the closest to near perfect geometry.


On my 19" Sony Trinitron CRT computer monitor, I can notice, if I look really hard, slight geometry issues in the corners. Blow this up to 34", and the flaw becomes magnified.


If geometry is an issue for you, grab an LCD. However, I think you're sacrificing a lot more by going with an LCD over what little you gain.


----------



## Dunedain

I have no intention of going with an inferior LCD display, for a t.v. or even for a computer monitor.










Well, if it's just a minor thing on the geometry, then it's no big deal I guess. Although it would be nice

to see it further improved.


Of far more concern is the apparent frequency of bad power supplies in the XBR960. Reliablity is a must

with a high-end t.v., so this needs to be corrected ASAP, so no more t.v.'s are made with this problem.


----------



## spider4re

Do any XBR960 owners have computers hooked up to their t.v.'s? If so what video cards are you using?



Thanks for your help.


----------



## hancox

Anyone been able to get the firmware updated on this TV? I know service bulletins are out there, and can get updates via memory stick...


----------



## BloatedCorpse

I haven't heard of this hancox, please keep us posted if you hear anything.


----------



## HooDSide

Upscaling Question...


I bought the NS975. I didn't purchase for the upscaling, since I have read I won't see anything better, in terms of PQ, on the 960. I bought it so I can free up one of my componets Inputs, by using the HDMI port on the television. I have been fiddling with the player settings, toggling between, 1080 and 720, but I wonder, should I just leave it at 480p?


Perhaps I would get the best PQ on that setting?

I'm a novice to this native resolution stuff.


----------



## Spank

I've noticed that the bars on the left and right and top and bottom are parallel and are not bowed but are not the same width.


Adjustment from the menu helps but doesn't completely correct.


Is this whats referred to as "geometry problems" in this thread? Enough to warrant a return? Can I correct without a calibration?


----------



## Ronnie Ferrell

Need some input please. I don't have the 960 but do have the 955. Can anyone confirm if they have the below issue or not with the 960? I only have 10 days left to decide if this issue is going to bug me enough to warrant a return. I also know this might be me being very picky...










The issue I have is with what I will call an "offset shadow ghost" that is always about 1/10" to the right of images viewed on my TV. Kind of like the grayscale image is to the right by 1/10" of the color image. It does it with all inputs and with HD and SD TV as well. It is most noticeable with animated DVDs like Aladdin, Lion King, Nemo, etc, because of the solid color fields. With 4:3 content it is very obvious to see to the right of the left black bar.


Here is a close up shot I posted a while back of Simba's paw. Notice the shadow to the right of each paw pad.









Does anyone else have this type of issue? Can you play an animated DVD and look close to see if you see it? Do you see a shadow line to the right of the left bar is 4:3 mode?


Since the above shot, I have gone into the service menu and adjusted

SYSM=3 (flat)

VMLV=0

VMCR=0

VMLM=0

VMFO=0

VMDL=0


This keeps the problem from being emphasized by Scanning Velocity Modulation especially SYSM=3 but it is still slightly visible.


The Circuit City tech guy came out today and acknowledged the problem, but said the rest of the image looked so good, he did not want to adjust anything since he did not know exactly what was causing the problem.



Thanks much for any input!


Ronnie Ferrell


----------



## JoeKing

After adjusting SYSM on my set I got a strange double image on the right side of images that resembles the edge enhancement that u would find on DVDs. I fixed that effect by adjusting PPHA. From the pic u showed me, it looks like your TV has ghosting and both of my XBRs came with a slight amount of ghosting when I brought them home.


----------



## JoeKing

I want to share the focus adjustments I have made in the service menu because they improved my picture so drastically. I tried adjusting the focus on the dot pattern I found in the VE disk and I had trouble making out if some of the dots were actually getting smaller. Instead I popped in NBA2K on my XBOX, picked my team, and adjusted focus so that all of the players faces on the roster screen look as clear as possible. Next, I popped in the VE disk and brought up the test pattern to get the corners as clear as possible. Here are my results... Keep in mind that if you adjust the focus you will have to redo the convergence. Also, I really want to know what the QPDV adjustment does as well as the QPDP adjustment.


2170D-4 0 QPAM 31

2170D-4 1 QPAV 63

2170D-4 2 QPAP 15

2170D-4 3 QPDC 34

2170D-4 4 QPDV 63

2170D-4 5 QPDP 6

2170D-4 6 CPY1 0

2170D-4 7 DF 39

2170D-4 8 DQP 33


----------



## rekalil

How did you determine what functions are served by the 2107D-4 values that you mention in your post? I have looked throughout AVS and elsewhere for a service menu chart for the XBR960 similar to that which is posted for the XBR910, because I want to reduce the overscan on my XBR960, but have not been able to find one. Even the service menu chart for the XBR910 does not explain the function of each of the 2170D-4 values .

Thanks very much.

Ron


PS. Please reply to [email protected]


----------



## JoeKing

those adjustments are focus adjustments. Most of them focus the corners but blur the middle of the screen and visa versa.


I reduced overscan by adjusting HSIZ and VSIZ as well as a couple of geometry adjustments but I can't think of them off hand.


----------



## Waterbug

yeah, HSIZ and VSIZ will helps you adjust overscan. So are HPOS and VPOS which helps center the screen pic.


You can find VPOS and VSIZ on 217OD-1.


and HPOS and HSIZ on 2170D-2.


----------



## Mike3

XP driver?


Like HooDSide I'd like to try recording from the ATSC tuner through firewire to a PC.


Is there any driver out there that might work?


----------



## r6rome

Question on tuning Digital channels.


Hi. Sorry if this has been adressed before, the thread is very long and I am only up to page 45. A search did not help me get an answer.


I recently got my new XBR960. I live in CT and have Comcast digital cable. Is the tv's tuner supposed to be able to show me all the non-premium digital channels (higher than 100)??


The confusing thing is that I can get some channels like DIY (121) and Fine living (122) but none of the others (for example, G4-tech TV in channel 138, if I try to tune 138 and go to diagnostics, both in band and out of band say UNLOCK). Am I missing something here? The built in tuner works great otherwise. HD rules, PBSHD is my favorite. If there is a thread better suited to answer this question, I sure would appreciate the advice. Thanks,.


----------



## r6rome

Correction.


In fact, the diagnostics for 138 say:


In Band (FAT)

89

615000

QAM256

LOCK

0

31-32

20


Out of Band (FDC)

70000

772

1544

unlock

0


Cable card: none


Thanks


I am finding some information to this regard around post 1368 in this thread. It seems that my cable company may be encrypting these channels and thus I can not see them.....


----------



## mr2828

You have to get a cable card to get anything encrypted.


----------



## RJB in Phila

r6rome,


You should be able to get the non-premium HD channels such as PBS and CBS. Do a search through all the channels to find them. They will have a decimal in them (at least mine do) such as 81.1 or 118.2. Of course, they will not match the locations that Comcast lists for them. Just start at the bottom and keep pushing that up channel button.


----------



## r6rome

Hi guys. thanks for the replies. Actually, I do get all the non-premiun HD channels. I get PBS, Fox, ABC, CBS and ESPN. I kinda had a feeling that what mr2828 says is right, that I do have to get a cable card. I wanted to bounce this off y'all to make sure I wasn't missing something obvious


Now, what is your take, should I wait for the cable cards that will allow PPV and on-demand? it seems to me that right now, cable cards are not quite up to par with the STB. Any idea when the 'next gen' cable cards will come out? The main advantages is that 1) I would free up a componenet imput and 2) no stb to rent.


----------



## cajieboy




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by r6rome_
> *Hi guys. thanks for the replies. Actually, I do get all the non-premiun HD channels. I get PBS, Fox, ABC, CBS and ESPN. I kinda had a feeling that what mr2828 says is right, that I do have to get a cable card. I wanted to bounce this off y'all to make sure I wasn't missing something obvious
> 
> 
> Now, what is your take, should I wait for the cable cards that will allow PPV and on-demand? it seems to me that right now, cable cards are not quite up to par with the STB. Any idea when the 'next gen' cable cards will come out? The main advantages is that 1) I would free up a componenet imput and 2) no stb to rent.*



My HD cable box only adds $6 per month to my cable bill, so I've never thought it was that big of a deal. Right now, I'm waiting for the upgrade to a HD PVR STB, provided the cost is not outrageous.


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Two-way cable cards will not work on the XBR960 even when they release. I haven't heard much that indicates when we will see that technology. The consensus is not in next years models, probably the following years models.


----------



## mr2828

Cable cards usually are free or only like $1 a month to rent, so I would go ahead and get one. Although honestly I do not use one in my 960. What's the point when you can get a very nice dual-tuner HD DVR from Comcast for $9.95 a month?


----------



## mukdweller

Hello all.. I'm a relative noob, but had a question. I am considering getting this set but was wondering if anyone has used the xbr for xbox?? My current t.v. is a 27 inch dynaflat hd 4:9 ratio. I was wondering if anyone has compared this set to other ones using there xbox. For instance... How does 720p games look on this set?? Are they better looking than if you played a 720p game on a 480p set?? Any comments would help me out. Ohh ya, and how is the widescreen?? Does it seem to work well with 720p WS games?? Thanks.


----------



## cajieboy




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by mr2828_
> *Cable cards usually are free or only like $1 a month to rent, so I would go ahead and get one. Although honestly I do not use one in my 960. What's the point when you can get a very nice dual-tuner HD DVR from Comcast for $9.95 a month?*



That's a price I can live with, and hopefully Brighthouse will be offering the HD DVR in a month or so.


----------



## 7thstranger




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by mukdweller_
> *Hello all.. I'm a relative noob, but had a question. I am considering getting this set but was wondering if anyone has used the xbr for xbox?? My current t.v. is a 27 inch dynaflat hd 4:9 ratio. I was wondering if anyone has compared this set to other ones using there xbox. For instance... How does 720p games look on this set?? Are they better looking than if you played a 720p game on a 480p set?? Any comments would help me out. Ohh ya, and how is the widescreen?? Does it seem to work well with 720p WS games?? Thanks.*




xbox games look awesome on this set. for ex, halo 2 and grand theft auto (both in HD) are 1000x clearer on the xbr960. you will not be disappointed.


----------



## BloatedCorpse

..I concur, I couldn't be happier with the way most of my xbox games look. The new Mercenaries looks damn good in widescreen. There are a handful of games however, that suffer from a digital set, such as fable with the sloppy artifacts on special effects. 720 games are few and far between, but even with the side conversion to 1080i, they look awesome.


----------



## r6rome

xbox games.


Here is a honest asessment.


I find that most xbox games are 480 P, Halo 2 included. Having said that, they look excellent. The best looking game I have put in so far is SOul calibur 2, which is 720 P. The into cinematic fills the screen and is incredible.


If you use the component input, be sure to eanble the dashboard for widescreen tv and to anable the 480i, 720 p and 1080i modes.


In Halo 2, you have to put the tv in FULL mode for it to fill the screen in single player. The cinmatics looks awesome. The gameplay will look a bit streched, but you get used to it. Interestingly, if you play in coop mode, the screens are side by side, and they do not look streched at all. I did have to adjust the brightness ans some other setting to get it to how I liked it. I am using the xbos high def AV pack.


All in all, i am very happy with how the xbox looks. I am not using it for DVD's however, as I have a better DVD player,


>>Does it seem to work well with 720p WS games?


Are there any other than Soul Calibur? Halo 2 is only 480p. SOuls calibur 2 BTW, will play in 720p, but will show some vertical bars on the side.


----------



## doretta




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by mr2828_
> *What's the point when you can get a very nice dual-tuner HD DVR from Comcast for $9.95 a month?*



What we have here is a failure of imagination. I have been known to watch one show via the cablecard in my 960 while recording two shows on my HD DVR.


----------



## mukdweller

Thanks for all your responses!! Yes there are some other 720p games like Xmen legends, and all the new Tony Hawk games. Another question I have is has anyone compared the xbr with a lower res hd tube?? For instance I wondered if I would see a difference in picture quility from my Dynaflat HD 27 inch 4:9 to the XBR??? I've read that the xbr has much better resolution than other tube televisions. So how would Halo2 look running in 480p on the xbr compared with my dynaflat running in 480p?? The same?? Or would the better resolution on the xbr be a big difference even though both t.v.s are running in 480p?? This has always confused me.


----------



## Geise

I believe only high definition sources like 1080i will use the extra resolution the 960 provides. 480p sources won't look any better than 480p.


----------



## mukdweller

Ahh this has always puzzled me, thanks for the response. So maybe I should hang on to my dynaflat hd{even though I don't get WS 480p} and wait until xbox next when all games will be running in 720p or 1080i. Then I will probably really see the difference from my current set??


----------



## Yung

I've had this TV since mid-October and when I turned on the TV tonight there was no picture, only the flashing red light. I'm pretty sure I turned off the TV last night. I tried turning the power again with the remote and then with the power button on the TV set and got the same result. I then unplugged it for a couple of minutes and plugged it back in and it was fine. A bit scary, but I hope everything is fine from now on as I didn't buy any extended warranty coverage. I have the standard 2yr warranty card for Sony XBRs although CC insists its only a one year coverage. Has this happened to anyone else?


----------



## Geise




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by mukdweller_
> *Ahh this has always puzzled me, thanks for the response. So maybe I should hang on to my dynaflat hd{even though I don't get WS 480p} and wait until xbox next when all games will be running in 720p or 1080i. Then I will probably really see the difference from my current set??*



I sold my 27" Samsung dynaflat HD to a friend and bought the xbr960 because I was sick of the cruddy dot pitch at the edges and I was gonna get a better HD set sooner or later, so I went slightly above my budget and bought the 960. I don't have any HD content right now, but I just had to get rid of that crappy 27".

I know that the next generation of consoles from MS and Sony will have alot more (if not all) HD titles and there's also the HD video mediums that might catch on soon too. In your case, if you are happy with the picture of your dynaflat, I don't see any reason to upgrade just yet (especially if better tvs than the 960 come out)


----------



## mukdweller

What do you mean by cruddy dot pitch?? Sorry I'm a noob.


----------



## Geise




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by mukdweller_
> *What do you mean by cruddy dot pitch?? Sorry I'm a noob.*



At the right and left sides of the screen the phosphor dots are spaced so far apart that the "screen door" effect is clearly visible from up to 11 feet away; And from up to 15 feet away, which is more viewing distance than I have in my room, it is still visible as a sort of fading of the image at the sides. Very bad for picture quality.


----------



## Jon S

Yung,

I had the same issue. Powered on the set, heard the degausiing circuit do its thing, the red led on the front panel flashes several times and nothing, no picture no sound. i also unplugged the set for a few minutes and it was okay. I had my set for only five days when it happened. Its now about a week old and I am awaiting word from Sony about this issue.

Jon


----------



## SoManyInputs

Hello All,


Does anyone have knowledge on the Kd-34xbr960's overscan?


I received an inexpensive DVI to HDMI cable from Monoprice on Saturday. I am using it to post this message with legible text on my XBR960. I have set it up as the second monitor off my ATI 9600XT graphics card with a 1280X720 resolution at 59Hz.


I would like to know how to manage the overscan when using it as a PC monitor.


I have downloaded and tested both ATI' latest driver (5.1) and Powerstrip. I still have not eliminated the overscan.


Kind Regards,


SoManyInputs


----------



## kindofblue

Hello All,


Had a question that has been running through my mind for a while:


When you click on the remote's Display button depending on the source, it displays the aspect along with the scan line resolution + interlaced/progressive.


My question is this:


Does the XBR actually maintain this when you physically view it on the tube or does it upscale all these to its default of 1080 lines? In other words when the source is a 480i based source, is the XBR diplaying this on th tube at 480 lines or is it upsaling this to 1080i? Similar question for 480p & 720p?


Just curious to learn - any feedback/opinions on this would be greatly appreciated.


KOB


----------



## 7thstranger




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Yung_
> *I've had this TV since mid-October and when I turned on the TV tonight there was no picture, only the flashing red light. I'm pretty sure I turned off the TV last night. I tried turning the power again with the remote and then with the power button on the TV set and got the same result. I then unplugged it for a couple of minutes and plugged it back in and it was fine. A bit scary, but I hope everything is fine from now on as I didn't buy any extended warranty coverage. I have the standard 2yr warranty card for Sony XBRs although CC insists its only a one year coverage. Has this happened to anyone else?*




Same thing for me as well. i shut off my strip and turned it back on after a few minutes and the set was fine. I've had a recurring problem w/ the channel autoprogramming. Basically ever once in a while the channel memory gets mysteriously wiped out and I have autoprogram it which takes about 45 minutes. There is a service bulletin on this issue so the myer emco guy is coming out to fix it next week via a memory stick software upgrade. The problem seems to occur after I've used the channel label function. in addditon to wiping the channel memory, the channel labels get wiped out as well. I also suspect that the cold weather is a factor because it happened twice in one week when it was exceptionally cold (we use the zone heating so I don't have the heater on in the living room at night). Curious to see if anyone else has experienced this problem.


----------



## rekalil

I have an XBR-960 that was purchased in November. It is turned on only two or three times a week and therefore hasn't seen much use. Nevertheless, the TV always has always turned on normally. I have never experienced any problem in this regard (overscan and poor geometry in the corners are another story). However, I'm concerned by the frequent reports of power-on failures appearing in this group from others who have owned their XBR960 for as little as a few days to several months. In view of these reports, I called the two local CC stores and a regional independent retailer to inquire whether their display model XBR960s had ever failed to power on normally. Each of the three stores reported the same thing; namely, that the sets are run for 12 hours each day, turned off each evening and turned on in the morning, 7 days a week, and there has never been a problem with the display model XBR960s turning on each morning, and in one of the stores this normal behavior has persisted for nearly 6 months.

While I realize that this is a small sample, these display sets are subject to a very heavy duty cycle, yet they appear to turn on and off normally. This makes me wonder whether the reports of power-on failures in this group, which seem unrelated to date of manufacture or duration of use, may be caused by local conditions such as low voltage swings or power surges.

Opinions on this from other would be appreciated.

Thanks

Ron


----------



## Brad Smith

I think it's a one-time only thing for everyone who has experienced it. My old 27" WEGA (non widescreen) did it three days after my family purchased it. Hasn't happened since. Has been running fine for several years.


----------



## bre30127




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by kindofblue_
> *Hello All,
> 
> 
> Had a question that has been running through my mind for a while:
> 
> 
> When you click on the remote's Display button depending on the source, it displays the aspect along with the scan line resolution + interlaced/progressive.
> 
> 
> My question is this:
> 
> 
> Does the XBR actually maintain this when you physically view it on the tube or does it upscale all these to its default of 1080 lines? In other words when the source is a 480i based source, is the XBR diplaying this on th tube at 480 lines or is it upsaling this to 1080i? Similar question for 480p & 720p?
> 
> 
> Just curious to learn - any feedback/opinions on this would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> KOB*




I have also wondered this. Anybody have an answer? So does the 720p signal display at 720 or does it scale it to 1080i?


----------



## foxfan

I've had my 34XBR for just over a month and haven't experienced the power problems.


I'm using a Monster $400 power center to avoid such problems.


----------



## 7thstranger




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by foxfan_
> *I've had my 34XBR for just over a month and haven't experienced the power problems.
> 
> 
> I'm using a Monster $400 power center to avoid such problems.*



means nothing. it happened to me and I am using a comparable power center.


----------



## DKSF




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by rekalil_
> *While I realize that this is a small sample, these display sets are subject to a very heavy duty cycle, yet they appear to turn on and off normally. This makes me wonder whether the reports of power-on failures in this group, which seem unrelated to date of manufacture or duration of use, may be caused by local conditions such as low voltage swings or power surges.
> 
> Opinions on this from other would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Ron*



Ron: I've actually been through 2 XBR960's with this problem, and the 3rd one is being delivered tomorrow. For whatever reason, the unplug "reset" has not worked for me, so the TV's were inoperable.


I have certainly considered that I may be having some power issues at my house. But my house is brand new, and I have not had any issues with my computers, audio equipment or other TV's. I've discussed this directly with Sony, and they seem to be inclined to believe that my XBR's have had faulty power supplies in them, and the failures were not due to user error on my part.


I guess my take on this is that any power surges or low voltage issues could potentially damage electronic equipment, however, some variability in the power supply should be expected. These things are not new occurrences and we have plugged in TV's directly to the outlet with no fancy power conditioners for years with no issues. I expect that when purchasing a $2K TV that it should be a plug and play event, and there is no need to invest another couple of hundred dollars in a power conditioner to make sure that the TV will turn on reliably.


Just my $0.02. DK.


----------



## Mike3

SoManyInputs,


There is a dedicated thread to using the 960 as a monitor. It's referenced somewhere in this thread, but I think it's located in the HTPC section.


----------



## r6rome

In the March 2005 Issue of Cunsumer reports there is an article on Big Screen Tv's, all types.


Pages 22 and 23 has the info on the 34XBR960 and its bretheren, The 960 is selected as one the 'quick picks' and 'excellent with HD and very good or excellent with DVD and regular TV'. The longer warranty of the 960 is mentioned.


The 960 scores thus:

Price listed at $1800


Overall: Very good + (looks like 88 % out of 100)

HD Programming: Excellent

DVD playback: Excellent

SD TV via high-quality input: Very good

SD TV via basic inout: Very good

Sound: Excellent

Ease of use: Good


Built in HD tunre : yes

Rear inputs: comp: 2, S-vid: 2, Composite: 3


Waranty: 24/24


----------



## dc_pilgrim

I'd like to see that price. Most of the "traditional" retaillers are sticking to MSRP, at least at the ask.


----------



## kindofblue

While I do remember reading about this issue somewhere in this forum, I was unable to locate it, hence I am posting this one.


This issue has been bothering me for some time now. When I use the "normal" Screen mode (shows picture in 4:3 aspect with 2 vertical pillar bars on the side), I notice that there is a slight outward curve on the left hand vertical bar. While that isn't too bad, also noticed that there is a slight inward curve on both the horizontal bars when watching video source that has aspect greater than 1.78


Has anyone else seen this? If you have, can you tell me if this is something that can be corrected & how?. Since I am still within the first 30 day window, I can always get it replaced, but would like to know if this can be corrected.


Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.


KOB


----------



## sanguish

I just purchased an XBR960 at a local vermont dealer, and got 10% off. They had it in stock, and will deliver it Friday or Monday. It replaces a Sony LCD 32M1 that I got from them last week. Unfortunately the 32M1 had several areas of the screen that had bright hot spots.


----------



## Dark Rain




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by kindofblue_
> *While I do remember reading about this issue somewhere in this forum, I was unable to locate it, hence I am posting this one.
> 
> 
> This issue has been bothering me for some time now. When I use the "normal" Screen mode (shows picture in 4:3 aspect with 2 vertical pillar bars on the side), I notice that there is a slight outward curve on the left hand vertical bar. While that isn't too bad, also noticed that there is a slight inward curve on both the horizontal bars when watching video source that has aspect greater than 1.78
> 
> 
> Has anyone else seen this? If you have, can you tell me if this is something that can be corrected & how?. Since I am still within the first 30 day window, I can always get it replaced, but would like to know if this can be corrected.
> 
> 
> Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> KOB*



There are geometry adjustments in the service menu to try to make it look better. Keep in mind that this tube is curved horizontally, which will produce some small distortions near the edges. I've never seen a flat CRT with perfect geometry due to the nature of the technology. If you do feel it's too much of a distraction, exchange it for another one. You might want to see if you can have it taken out of the box so you can test it.


----------



## andrewjnyc

Does the 960 output DD 5.1 that's fed into it via the HDMI input? It seems that if I want to use the HDMI jack on the Scientific Atlanta 8300HD cable box DVR, the TV it's connected to has to support 5.1 itself and pump it out via the digital out--otherwise, I can only get Pro Logic II from the 8300, even if I'm running a digital cable from the 8300 to my receiver.


----------



## DelSol9400

Don't exchange your TV because of that unless it is REALLY bad. Mine does the same exact thing, in addition to that, the left and right sides aren't as sharp as the center. You can especially notice this on the Windows desktop if you have it connected to a computer. As someone else said, that's the technology. This screen still looks better than other HDTV technologies with its flaws. If you return it, you could get one that is worse. I can even see bend horizontally when the channel display is up.


Joe


----------



## ojo

can anyone verify whether or not it's *actually true* that the XS955 really has the exact same tube as the 960? If so, I would definitely like to save the money, as I'm not interested in the additional features listed below. However, if there really is any actual difference in the tubes and therefore PQ, I'd love to know before I shell out the cash.


Can anyone actually verify this?




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Gage33_
> *I did a comparison on the Sony webiste between the XS955 34" and the XBR960 34" and here are the only differences:
> 
> 
> iLink
> 
> XBR: 3 total
> 
> XS: 0 total
> 
> 
> Dimensions
> 
> XBR: 39 1/8" x 25 5/8" x 23 7/8"
> 
> XS: 39 1/8" x 30 5/8" x 25"
> 
> 
> Weight
> 
> XBR: 196 lbs
> 
> XS: 205 lbs
> 
> 
> Parts Warranty
> 
> XBR: 2 Year/2 Years for Tube
> 
> XS: 1 Year/2 Years for Tube
> 
> 
> Labor Warranty
> 
> XBR: 2 years
> 
> XS: 90 days
> 
> 
> Yes they both have TruSurround.
> 
> One thing is I think the Xs955 may not have PiP.
> 
> 
> To me, the XBR is not worth it unless you really need iLink. As far as I can tell, the PQ should be identical between these two sets. You can always buy a cheaper warranty from where ever you bought the TV.
> 
> 
> I think I am going with the XS.*


----------



## lipcrkr

"I did a comparison on the Sony webiste between the XS955 34" and the XBR960 34" and here are the only differences:"


I think the XBR has a digital/optical audio out.


----------



## JoeKing

hi, I changed the following and I think it gave me a brighter, sharper picture with less edge enhancement. I do think that the colors look a little more "artificial" now though. Earlier I said that changing YLEV to 38 was good but I was mistaken though because on the Ice Age THX test, in the contrast test pattern I could not differenciate between the shades of white.


YLEV from 19 to 28

SHAP from 4 to 2

YOSW from 0 to 1

SHFO from 1 to 0

LTLV from ? to 0

YCON from 1 to 0

SCOL from 32 to 42

GAMR from ? to 11

GAMG from ? to 11

GAMB from ? to 11


DRC pallete is 25 sharpness and 0 DNR


STANDARD

Contrast 28

Brightness 32

Color 29

Hue G1

Sharpness 29


hope to hear back from ppl who have given my adjustments a shot.


----------



## rekalil

The January 2005 issue of Widescreen Review carries a review of the XBR960. In it the reviewer states:

"DRC stands for Digital Reality Creation, and is Sony's trademark for their built-in line doubler. Three settings are offered for DRC control; interlaced, progressive,

and Cinemotion. Cinemotion is intended for film-based material viewed through an interlaced input and performs a proper 3-2 pulldown conversion of 24 frames per second (fps) film to 60 fps video. The progressive setting is intended for still pictures or graphics. NTSC 480i input signals are converted to 960i, and 720p HD signals are displayed at 1080i. If the DRC control is set to Progressive, then the display is set to 540p."


Writing to confirm this with Sony, I asked what the XBR960 displayed when it received a 480i signal. A Sony "technician" replied: "A 480i signal with the use of cinemotion will be seen as if it were a 480p, a 480p signal will be viewed as a 480p TV"

Writing back to Sony to ask for an explanation of the discrepancy in explaining how a 480i signal is displayed, the Sony technician refused to comment, referring me to the telephone support line, which in my experience is worse than the on-line support.


Does anyone know for certain what the XBR960 displays when it receives a 480i signal?


Thanks very much.

Ron


----------



## JoeKing

hey when your set is hooked up to a non progressive(480i) DVD player you are using your TVs line doubler. If you set you TV to interlaced you will get a 480i picture that flickers. If you set your TV to Progressive you get a 480P picture. If you set you TV to cinemotion you get a 480P signal that does 3:2 pulldown.


IMO the 34 inch sonys have line doublers that look better than any progressive scan DVD players I have used.


----------



## VinnieR




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Dark Rain_
> *There are geometry adjustments in the service menu to try to make it look better. Keep in mind that this tube is curved horizontally, which will produce some small distortions near the edges. I've never seen a flat CRT with perfect geometry due to the nature of the technology. If you do feel it's too much of a distraction, exchange it for another one. You might want to see if you can have it taken out of the box so you can test it.*



Just got my 960 yesterday and am absolutely knocked out by the picture quality. However, I have the geometric distortion on 4:3 screens and well as a waviness in horizontal lines such as those generated by my DVD player. Both are bothersome and easily seen even by my wife. I am willing to attempt to adjust these myself rather that losing a day of work and waiting for a technician to show up.


Can anyone tell me how to get into the service menu?


----------



## Geise

With the tv turned off: display, 5, volume+, power.


----------



## Jon S

You cannot correct horizontal defects thru the service menu. Sony uses little magnets to align the image attached to the nect of the CRTs. I do not recommend anyone to go into the service menu as the descriptions are very cryptic and messing around with the wrong settings can really mess up the TV. That's why the service menu is not accessible by mere mortals.


----------



## VinnieR

Probably good advice. I got into the service menu and realized that I had no idea what to do next. I will call a service guy to come out to work his magic.


----------



## jeffwdc

Hello,

Thanks to all the folks here for sharing their knowledge. I've read this entire thread.


I live in the Washington DC metro area and bought a 34XBR960 about 4 weeks ago from a local franchise, Myer-Emco. I paid about three hundred off the list price for an open box (manufactured August 05). This is my first HDTV. I tuned the set with Digital Video Essentials (DVE) and I'm happy with everyting except overscan. According to DVE both verticle and horizontal overscan are about 4.5 to 5 percent. Right now I'm using the set with OTA broadcast and Prog. DVD connected via component cables. Eventually I'll add my sat. DTV box (non-HDTV, best output is S-video).


I contacted Kevin Miller in New York for a recommendation on an ISF calibrator. Kevin Miller wrote the review of this set on CNET.com. His web site is www.isftv.com. I think he is considered a reliable source. Kevin recommended a guy in Wash. DC and shown below is what this guy wrote to me.


I understand that ISF calibration may improve color accuracy and other things, but the only thing really bothering me is the overscan. Actually I'm very happy with the color after using DVE, and any other things like geomotry and focus must not be too bad because I don't notice a problem.


It seems to me that $450 is a steep price to pay for calibration. I've called two other calibrators (found at www.imagingscience.com ) and they haven't returned my call after two weeks. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks, jeff


------------------------

From ISF Calibrator:


You mentioned you were experiencing what you felt was too much overscan. While I can bring it down somewhat, it's been my experience that when I try to get it much lower, I run into a nonlinearity on the edges, which results in a "fun house mirror" effect on left and right panning shots. In fact, if you think you see any gross geometric problems, you may want to have Myer Emco look at it, as this kind of thing varies from one serial number set to the next, and is dependent on the actual CRT in your set.


The basic ISF service is $225, and covers 1 format. Your Sony is calibrated by a combination of input type and formats. I then charge $80 for the first extra format (1080i) and $40 for all other formats (480p, 720p, DVI, etc.). The color decoder on these sets out of the box is not accurate, and I will perform the necessary alignments to make it accurate. I then calibrate all of your user settings (contrast, brightness, color, tint, and sharpness) so that the "correct" settings will be had with one of the modes selected and the "Reset" button pressed. I will also verify the performance of your DVD player to make sure it is set up correctly and working well with your set.


I then charge $100 per hour for focus, convergence and geometry alignments, but your set has very few necessary alignments that fall into this category. Unless you are having any specific problems in this area, budget $25 for this, if that much.


I also charge a service call fee of $75 to come to most areas around DC, so the total cost should be $445.


----------



## 7thstranger

Hi Jeff,


I contacted the same guy re my 960 and opted not to go with calibration because of the price. This person has a good reputation and while I'm sure that he would would have made a significant difference on my set, I am very happy with the settings after using DVE. I would caution you about the open box set you got from Myer Emco which is where I bought by set. My first one was manufactured in August 04 and had focus issues as well as color and "crispness" issues. I returned it and they gave me a new one which I am happy with. The people at Myer Emco have great service (which you basically pay for by paying retail) and I would highly recommend getting the service plan for this set. For example, a service guy is coming out to fix my autoprogramming memory issue. It is much easier to go through Myer emco than Sony in terms of service. good luck and enjoy!


----------



## jeffwdc

Hi 7thstranger,


Thanks for all the info. I agree with you about Myer-Emco - I've had good luck with them for over a decade. I bought the 4-year service plan extension , so I'm covered for 6 years all together.


I have the DVE disk also. How would I look for the issues you mentioned: focus, color, and crispness?


How is the overscan situation on your set? Do you think 4.5 to 5 percent is acceptable?


Do you think Myer-Emco will replace my set even if I purchased more than 30 days ago? My 30 day mark is coming up this Friday.

Many Thanks, jeff


----------



## 7thstranger

I do not know enough about overscan to give you an educated answer. Maybe you can tell me about this. In terms of the focus issues etc. that I had, it was clear to me when, for example, the move credits are scrolling and the credits on the left and and right 1/3 of the screen were blurry while the middle of the screen was crystal clear. when my dvd player played its "Screen saver" or desktop, you could tell that there was a lot of noise (almost like pixelation) around the words. On my new set, this is not the case.


Re Myer emco, they will definetly replace your set after the 30 days but it is a lot cleaner (no questions asked) if you replace it before your 30 days are up.


----------



## MichaelDaly

When I pull up the favorites menu or use split view, I sometimes lose audio. This occurs on both analog and digital channels. I have to pull up a channel via favorites or switch to another video input to get the audio back. Has anyone else experienced this?


----------



## pdroth

Does anyone know of a way to directly go to a specified input instead of having to cycle through all of the ones I haven't already set to Skip?


I find myself hitting the input button so much I really think I can wear it out.


Thanks!


----------



## Bud-man

Anyone know if the tuner will pickup cable hd signals, all my hd channels are on channel 700 and above.

You can program the inputs to ones you use.

This is hard decision to buy considering i can get a plasma or lcd for about the same price.


----------



## pdroth

The tuner will pick up unencrypted digital HD channels.


----------



## Mike3

pdroth

I can't say for certain but I thought I remembered reading on this read that there is a remote code for skipping to certain inputs. You would have to have a remote that you could program to the appropriate code (I think it might have been for a different Sony TV) and then a learning remote that you could transfer the new code to.


Try a search.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by pdroth_
> *Does anyone know of a way to directly go to a specified input instead of having to cycle through all of the ones I haven't already set to Skip?
> 
> 
> I find myself hitting the input button so much I really think I can wear it out.
> 
> 
> Thanks!*



Well, I don't know, but what about using a learning remote? My guess is there's a discreet code for each input (as opposed to just a "next input" command that would cycle through the inputs.)


The reason I believe this will work is our kids gave us a Harmony remote for Xmas. It either "knows" the proper codes or it cycles through them, because it does select the right codes and we never have to think about selecting the inputs. (I think it's great, although a bit pricey.)


Mark


----------



## pdroth

Which Harmony remote do you have? Someone else recommended that to me as well.


Discrete codes are definitely what I am looking for. Too bad there isn't a way to use them on the remote provided.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by pdroth_
> *Which Harmony remote do you have? Someone else recommended that to me as well.
> 
> 
> Discrete codes are definitely what I am looking for. Too bad there isn't a way to use them on the remote provided.*



I have the 659--the "entry level" unit.


----------



## esquire415

So where can i find the best price for a new Sony 34XBR960?


----------



## Hawkmoon

I currently have the 34XBR910. I bought it back in December of 2003. It has been a great TV and I have had Zero issues with it. Since I have not been around the boards for a long time and I was never looking at other sets, I did not know that Sony had released the 960.


So, if I have a perfectly working 910, is the 960 worth getting? I have someone that is willing to buy my 910 and I just wanted to know if there is that much of a difference between the 910 and the 960 to warrent doing it.


My primary use is Video Gaming (Xbox), DVD & Cable.


Thanks!


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Your call Hawkmoon -


Upgrades are: HDMI instead of DVI; firewire ports; built in HD tuner; cablecard (one way); a nicer one screen menu system; and, perhaps incrementally better pq (though the tube part is the same, and most people seem to think the changes would be minimal).


Alternatively, Sony has a history of announcing their updates in late Feb. I have been watching this link to see if the successor to the 960 will have anything to make me delay my purchase.

http://news.sel.sony.com/pressroom/c...es/television/ 


(waiting for a Feb 05 press release, the Jan 05 one isn't relevant to this discussion)


For me, cable card, and the built-in tuner are appealing (firewire too, if I ever went for a HTPC or D-VHS) enough for me to buy a 960. But I doubt I'd sell a perfectly good 910 unless my net cash outlay would be minimal.


If a new model has two-way cablecard, I'll probably wait a while longer for the 960's successor.


----------



## Doug_L

So I've checked the last few pages and done a couple of searches and still don't know the answer to my question, so here goes:


When you use the HMDI input can you still utilize the screen modes (wide zoom, etc). In particular, can you use the Wide Zoom mode with a 480i source coming in through the HDMI?


I know that Wide Zoom is possible with a 480i source via component cables, because that's my current hook-up. I'm about to pick up a new cable box that has the HDMI port (SA 8300HD with Time Warner NYC), and I'd like to use it as my single connection between my TV and cable box, passing all sources (480i/480p/720p/1080i). I like to use the single cable so I don't have to change inputs when going from HD to SD (that's one of the reasons I love this TV).


As background, I'm not 100% sure the HDMI port is active (I've got a question posted in another forum), and even if it is, I'm not sure that the cable box can/will pass 480i through the HDMI port.


If anybody knows about this, any help would be much appreciated.


----------



## BTV Mark

"Alternatively, Sony has a history of announcing their updates in late Feb. I have been watching this link to see if the successor to the 960 will have anything to make me delay my purchase."


"If a new model has two-way cablecard, I'll probably wait a while longer for the 960's successor."


I think we're all going to watch to see what features are available in a successor to the 960. Just be prepared to wait, however, because the products you see announced in Feb. don't show up in stores for 4-6 months.


----------



## andrewjnyc

What's the best way to clean a smudge off the 960's screen without leaving streaks? A damp towel? I assume Windex or the like would be a Bad Idea. Whatever I do, I don't want to put the screen's coating at risk...


----------



## CrocHunter

I'd just use a damp face cloth with warm water, and a dry face cloth to finish it off.


----------



## paulfries

I just took delivery of my 34xbr960. It is replacing my old 36xbr450.


I just hooked it up last night, and was less than impressed with overall picture quality.


I am feeding it via HDMI from a Denon DVD-2910.


This is the first time I have used the HDMI port on the 2910. I have set the output res to 1080i, and the picture seems okay.


However, I think the picture on my 36xbr450 was better. I was using component on that set.


Should I be outputting 1080i from the player? Perhaps 720p?


I have calibrated with Avia, and noticed some slight vertical ghosting on the needle pulses and steps pattern. I dropped the sharpness setting waaay down, and that seemed to help a bit. However, my 36xbr450 is flawless on this test. Perhaps this is something that will go away as the set is broken in?


My older set had an option called "16:9 Enhanced mode." Basically it doubled the res when playing 16:9 format DVDs. It produced a very clear picture. I think it was just up converting the 480p signal to 1080i. Is there anything similar on this set? Currently at either 1080i or 720p, i can see little artifacts in the lesser contrast portions of the picture. It almost looks like film grain from a digital picture taken at a high iso setting.


I have set the picture mode to pro, color temp to warm, turned off the input memory (so my calibrations are the same on all inputs for now), turned of that edge sharpness thing, calibrated via Avia, set DRC mode to Cinemotion.


Anything else I should be doing? Anything I am doing wrong? Is 1080i what I should be using from the DVD? Will the slight vertical ghosting go away (please say yes)? Any particular setting on the DRC palate that seems to work better?


Thanks!


----------



## CrocHunter

Your widescreen dvd's will look better now that you have a widescreen set,Try setting your dvd player to 480p and use component cables and see if that improves the picture.


For DRC try interlaced instead, this setting upconverts everything to 960i.


Like you said the tv set is brand new, and should give some time for the set to burn in and get at least a 100 hours on the set to break it in then the picture quality will be better.


----------



## paulfries

Really? Interlaced? I thought it was best to use Cinemotion when using a progressive scan player for the 3-2 pulldown stuff to work.



I will try switching to 480p with DRC set to interlaced when I get home.


Thanks for the suggestion!


----------



## pdroth

Definitely allow some burn-in time. I've had my set for exactly 2 months now and am totally satisfied.


It took a few weeks and a visit by an ISF calibrator but let me tell you that now I am thrilled with the picture quality. Before the colors seemed to bleed a lot, and the picture was way too bright.


Now, the resolution is excellent and colors seem very natural yet crisp. I would definitely wait a few weeks after you have a few hours on the set and see how it performs.


----------



## paulfries

Ill definately give it some burn-in time before I get too worried about it.










Can somone verify my setup though? Does it look like I have configured everything properly for the best possible picture quality? Is 480p from the DVD the better option?


-Paul


----------



## Jon S

Actually, I find that 1080i is the best with HDMI. There's noticeably less artifacting. Make sure that your DVD player is configured for 16:9 aspect ratio since your older XBR was a 4:3 set.


----------



## paulfries

I was playing with this tonight, and noticed that there is a line entirely accross the top of the screen of dead pixels.











Only noticable when up close. It is one pixel wide. I tried all differant video formats (480 720 etc) and it is still there. ugh.


Anything I can do, or is this tv just crap?


I ordered via shopsunshine.com.... Anyone know of their return policy? heh.


now I feel sick.


----------



## ojo

Holy Cow!


Since you mentioned shopsunshine.com, I checked their website just for the heck of it ... they've got the XBR960 for $1629 !! That's crazy. I've never seen a price that low on it. Surely they're not an authorized dealer? Even with the $245 shipping to Texas that's cheaper than anything else I've found. Anybody know anything about these folks?


----------



## paulfries

They are an authorized Sony dealer.


They sell a bunch on Ebay, and I checked their ratings/reviews there, and they were all good.


The box came in perfect condition. I think I just got a bad copy.


----------



## jimglynn

My cable box, a Motorola digital has a dvi input as well as component. Right now I am using component. Would dvi be better?

Thanks,

Jim


----------



## ojo

Well ok, that sounds good. I'm reading scouring the web to find out how well they handle returns, which is really the make-it-or-break-it issue if you happen to get a bum set. So far haven't found any user reviews on how they handled a return.


From their website:


"Repair and replacement requests for special order and select products must go through the manufacturer. These products include:

- Large Screen Televisions (20"+) ... "


Not sure, but it sounds like that means they won't replace a defective tv that big; you'd have to go through Sony themselves. I have no idea how well that would actually work. Makes me a little nervous. Also:


"Defective Products:

ShopSunshine.com offers a 30 day (from date of shipment) replacement or credit policy for defective products. Prior to returning any item, please contact the manufacturer to confirm the item is defective. Customers who do not want an item repaired or replaced can request a return authorization, however a 15% restocking fee will be accessed to cover testing, repair, cleaning and repackaging expenses. Items found not to be defective may be subject to additional fees"


Now, that may be invalidated by the prior quote saying repair/replacement requests must go through the manufacturer instead of them. Nonetheless, that 15% restocking fee does NOT sound good, and that bit about additional fees if THEY don't think it's defective sounds very very bad.


I love that price, but all of the above sounds kinda squirrely. Anybody else have any experience w/ these guys?


----------



## ojo

Wow ... never mind ... don't think I'll be shopping from them anytime soon after reading these reviews:

http://www.epinions.com/pr-Online_St...splay_~reviews 


Sounds like they're shipping refurbished items while describing them as new, and that whole thing about making the customer deal w/ the manufacturer for repairs/refunds instead of them sounds like nothing more than a scam.


Guess I'll fork out the extra coupla hundred bucks to get it from Crutchfield - at least they have better reviews!



p.s. just read this one - egad!!
http://www.epinions.com/content_75306405508


----------



## paulfries

Yeah, I usually blow off the epinons ratings for the most part (unless they are all bad). Many people will post a bad review if they have a bad experience, but few will post if they have a good experience.


I find the E-Bay ratings to be much more accurate, as pretty much everyone will post feedback (good or bad).


So here is where I stand now:


Shopsunshine told me that I should go to Sony since they can dispatch a rep directly to my house to look at the problem and issue a replacement. Sure enough, I called Sony, they took all my info, told me I was covered under their warranty and there would be no charge for the service call, and gave me the number of a local authorized repair shop.


I called, and they will be out sometime in the next hour or so to look at it.


So Im pretty happy thus far. As long as the set gets replaced, I have no complaints. It is possible I just got a bad copy. The box was shipped all the way from NY to my house in Phoenix, AZ, and there was no noticable damage on it at all.


----------



## paulfries

Another thing, the manufacture date on my set is January 05, and all of the packaging seemed in perfect order. I dont think this set was pre-owned.


----------



## paulfries

Im so dumb.


Can anyone guess what I was actually seeing?


1) Pixels dont die on a direct view screen. (Duh, I knew this)

2) All sony trinitron sets have two very thin wires that hold up the mask on the inside of the tube. (I remember reading this when I bought my first xbr a few years ago).


It is extremely hard to see these at standard resolution because the electron beam pattern is so wide. However at 720p and above it becomes more apparent.


You can see it yourself if you stand close to the tv, and look at a bright image (I was watching the 4th chapter of "Return of the King" and looking at the sky above the tower).


Wow, now I feel like a heel.










Oh well, crisis averted.


----------



## johnbia




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by paulfries_
> *They are an authorized Sony dealer.
> 
> 
> They sell a bunch on Ebay, and I checked their ratings/reviews there, and they were all good.
> 
> 
> The box came in perfect condition. I think I just got a bad copy.*



this place is NOT an authorized sony reseller. There are 20 authorized online resellers and this place is NOT one of them . I'm sure they told you they were. Just like ABEs of Maine who tell you they are. Abes of maine isn't even in maine they are in brooklyn NY.


----------



## Workindood

Hmm...that ShopSunshine.com just plain smells bad.


Something about them that isn't above board. To many _Fees_ for one. I would not trust them with my money or credit card numbers.


My guess is that they have very little actual inventory. This is why it takes a while to get your order shipped. Sunshine goes out and gets the orders filled in that time. I'll bet that is why you have to wait 24 hours to pick up an order at their Coney Island address. I wouldn't be surprised if _they_ put that off to 48 or 72 hours.


----------



## paulfries

When I called Sony, they asked who I purchased from. WHen I told them Shopsunshine, they said that I was definately covered under Sony's warranty.


I believe they are a Sony authorized retailer (their stores, warehouses) but they may not be an online authorized dealer yet.


Regardless, the set is covered under Sony's warranty.


For what its worth, I had a fine experience with them. My order was "In Transit" the day I ordered it, and arrived to my house (on the other side of the country) in perfect condition. There was not even the slightest ding on the cardboard box.


Personally I would have no reservations about ordering from them again.


-Paul


----------



## jazzguy

I purchased a Denon AVR from Sunshine. No problems. They also told me that they are not an authorized Denon dealer. I felt the risk was extremely low with a Denon product, and I purchased anyway. So far I'm correct.


----------



## powerdog

Which is the correct setting for widescreen DVDs? The manual only talks about what different setting do to a 4:3 picture. Is it 'zoom'?


I tried one DVD and it was full width, but there were black bars on top and bottom.


----------



## pdroth

If the DVD has an aspect ratio of greater than 1.78:1 (?) then you should see black bars on top/bottom. It is normal. You are seeing the entire picture as you should.


If it is a 1.78 or 1.85:1 then you should NOT see bars.


----------



## powerdog

How do you find out the aspect ratio of a particular DVD?


----------



## pdroth

Usually says so on the back of the case or even on the disk itself.


To make it simpler to understand- you have a 16:9 TV. If you decide 16 by 9 you get 1.78. That means a DVD with a 1.78 ratio will fill up your screen.


A 2:35:1 DVD is somewhere around 21:9, and in order to see the entire picture it needs to be letterboxed. You should definitely notice that a 2:35 on a 16:9 screen has smaller width bars than on a 4:3 screen.


Along with most people on this forum, I prefer to see films in OAR (original aspect ratio) so I don't mind the bars. The Sony will give you a bunch of screen modes to stretch and zoom, but if you use them you are distorting the picture.


Hope that explains it a little better. I'm sure there are tons of links here that can explain it further if you need to know more.


----------



## powerdog

That was excellent. I finally understand. Thanks.


----------



## Dark Rain




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by powerdog_
> *Which is the correct setting for widescreen DVDs? The manual only talks about what different setting do to a 4:3 picture. Is it 'zoom'?
> 
> 
> I tried one DVD and it was full width, but there were black bars on top and bottom.*



Only use the 'ZOOM' mode for non-anamorphic DVDs. You can always tell if it's non-anamorphic because you'll see wider black bars on the top and bottom and also on the sides. The 'Zoom' mode will remove the black bars on the sides and, depending on the aspect ratio of the film, will remove the top and bottom black bars.


A good guide can be found here:

http://www.thedigitalbits.com/articl...hic/index.html 


and here:

http://www.widescreenmuseum.com/spec...eat_emptor.htm


----------



## powerdog

Those are great resources! THanks.


----------



## roblim

Optical Out Question:


If you plug in an optical cable from the 960 to your stereo receiver, does the 960 send an audio signal out to the receiver for both the HD tuner and the analog cable tuner? Do you get audio over the internal speakers as well, if you do not turn the internal speakers off.


Basically, I would like to use the TV's speakers when I am watching regular/analog cable tv (utilizing the 960's tuner) but I would like the audio to go to my Denon stereo receiver when I am watching HDTV (using the internal OTA receiver).


----------



## Joesteam

On my XBR: On some DVD's, after watching for a while, the screen starts freaking out, going from different modes, zoom, wide, etc. until finally it just turns black. It looks like the TV is deciding how to display the image and can't decide and then just quits. The same DVD played on the same (inexpensive) Panasonic player on another TV has no problem. Any Ideas??


----------



## dc_pilgrim




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by roblim_
> *Optical Out Question:
> 
> 
> Basically, I would like to use the TV's speakers when I am watching regular/analog cable tv (utilizing the 960's tuner) but I would like the audio to go to my Denon stereo receiver when I am watching HDTV (using the internal OTA receiver).*



My understanding is that the audio optical out port is only active when there is some form of digital audio available to transmit (e.g. 5.1). Accordingly I would think that only HDTV (and DVDs) would be broadcast on that port. People who want to use their receivers for all audio have commented that they need to hook up the optical and analog outputs.


Not sure if the internal speakers automatically turn off when the optical port is active. That would make sense.


Mind you the above is based on my reading. I don't own this tv (yet).


----------



## Ronnie Ferrell

I don't think the internal speakers automatically turn off when the optical port is active. And the TV does not convert analog audio to digital and send it out the optical port when watching HD. You have to use both the analog and digital out to your receiver. The problem I have is my receiver is either/or for the audio inputs for a given setting. So I have my receiver set up for analog input in the TV setting and digital input on the Sat. setting. I don't have Sat. so I use that for TV digital.


The good thing for my wife, who could care less about 5.1 when watching HD, is that the TV does convert the digital to analog and send the audio for HD content out the analog output. This way, all she has to do is set the receiver to TV and she can here all the audio for any station.


For your situation I think your only option is to turn the TV volume down when listening to the HD audio via your receiver, and then turn the TV audio up when watching SD content on the TV. Or you can do as I do and hook up both digital out and analog out to your receiver.


Ronnie


----------



## bre30127

When I'm on a HD channel I will sometimes see a green line streak from right to left across my screen in two places. It's about one pixel wide. There is one about a quarter from the top and one about a quarter from the bottom. Anybody have any idea what this might be?


----------



## roblim




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Ronnie Ferrell_
> *I don't think the internal speakers automatically turn off when the optical port is active. And the TV does not convert analog audio to digital and send it out the optical port when watching HD. You have to use both the analog and digital out to your receiver. The problem I have is my receiver is either/or for the audio inputs for a given setting. So I have my receiver set up for analog input in the TV setting and digital input on the Sat. setting. I don't have Sat. so I use that for TV digital.
> 
> 
> The good thing for my wife, who could care less about 5.1 when watching HD, is that the TV does convert the digital to analog and send the audio for HD content out the analog output. This way, all she has to do is set the receiver to TV and she can here all the audio for any station.
> 
> 
> For your situation I think your only option is to turn the TV volume down when listening to the HD audio via your receiver, and then turn the TV audio up when watching SD content on the TV. Or you can do as I do and hook up both digital out and analog out to your receiver.
> 
> 
> Ronnie*



Thank you for the advice. Hmm...the integrated HD Tuner is going to complicate my audio setup a bit.


I know that a lot of OTA HD is not broadcast in 5.1 and is just 2 channel stereo audio. I thought that the 960 sends the two channel audio over the optical port, just like most stand alone HD receivers do, but apparently it doesnt. Which would mean that I need to change inputs on my stereo receiver everytime I change OTA HD channels and come across a non-5.1 show.


----------



## ptchristensen

I connect the optical out from the TV to my sony receivers optical input for Sat/Ant. My Sony receiver also a Sat/Ant for input in analog. Here I connect from the Audio Out on the TV. When I then select Sat/Att on my receiver I get 5.1 if the channel sends 5.1 and analog if analog is send.


After that I set the Audio Out to fixed in the audio menu. This means that the TV always send the audio to the receiver.


----------



## Ronnie Ferrell




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by roblim_
> *Thank you for the advice. Hmm...the integrated HD Tuner is going to complicate my audio setup a bit.
> 
> 
> I know that a lot of OTA HD is not broadcast in 5.1 and is just 2 channel stereo audio. I thought that the 960 sends the two channel audio over the optical port, just like most stand alone HD receivers do, but apparently it doesnt. Which would mean that I need to change inputs on my stereo receiver everytime I change OTA HD channels and come across a non-5.1 show.*



Lets back up a second. I was not following what you were asking...


The 960 itself does not do any analog to digital conversion of the audio signal. If a station is broadcasting SD content over a HD channel, the station has converted the analog audio to digital before it is broadcast. That means for the situation you mention above, you WILL get the SD stereo audio via the optical cable because the station is doing the A/D conversion. What you WILL NOT get over the optical cable is SD audio broadcast on a SD channel. That is where you will need to use the L/R RCs outs to a receiver.



Ronnie


----------



## roblim




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Ronnie Ferrell_
> *Lets back up a second. I was not following what you were asking...
> 
> 
> The 960 itself does not do any analog to digital conversion of the audio signal. If a station is broadcasting SD content over a HD channel, the station has converted the analog audio to digital before it is broadcast. That means for the situation you mention above, you WILL get the SD stereo audio via the optical cable because the station is doing the A/D conversion. What you WILL NOT get over the optical cable is SD audio broadcast on a SD channel. That is where you will need to use the L/R RCs outs to a receiver.
> 
> 
> 
> Ronnie*



I got it now, thanks for the clarification. Then your original suggestion about just lowering the volume on the tv when I watch OTA Hi def is the best solution. I would like to program my harmony remote to mute the tv so that I do not get sound out of the built in speakers when I watch Hidef, but I dont think there is a way to mute sony tv's without displaying the on screen notification.


----------



## Ronnie Ferrell




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by roblim_
> *I got it now, thanks for the clarification. Then your original suggestion about just lowering the volume on the tv when I watch OTA Hi def is the best solution. I would like to program my harmony remote to mute the tv so that I do not get sound out of the built in speakers when I watch Hidef, but I dont think there is a way to mute sony tv's without displaying the on screen notification.*



I'm not in front of my TV right now, but I think the harmony remote idea will not work. I think the TV's mute is a full audio mute and also mutes both analog and digital audio outs as well.


You might try programming a remote macro to turn the TV's speakers OFF from the audio sub-menu. Or better yet, see if there is a discrete code to turn the TV speakers's off.



Ronnie


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Ronnie Ferrell_
> *I'm not in front of my TV right now, but I think the harmony remote idea will not work. I think the TV's mute is a full audio mute and also mutes both analog and digital audio outs as well.
> 
> 
> You might try programming a remote macro to turn the TV's speakers OFF from the audio sub-menu. Or better yet, see if there is a discrete code to turn the TV speakers's off.
> 
> 
> 
> Ronnie*



This has basically been my experience. My son-in-law and I spent a lot of time trying to make this work over the holidays. Reason: I didn't want to give up the on-screen "volume bar," and I also wanted to take optical out of the DVD player directly into the receiver. We couldn't figure out how to do it, so we decided to always control the audio via the receiver. Now, the Harmony tells the receiver to switch between DVD and TV line out sources, as needed. Works great, but we had to give up the on-screen volume bar.


Mark


----------



## arabinsky

BTV Mark or anyone else in or near chicago-- can you recommend someone to calibrate my 960 based on a positive personal experience either calibrating this or a similar Sony crt?


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by arabinsky_
> *BTV Mark or anyone else in or near chicago-- can you recommend someone to calibrate my 960 based on a positive personal experience either calibrating this or a similar Sony crt?*



Sorry, never had it done. (When I bought the set last July, I asked my dealer, ABT, and as I recall they said it would be $450-$500.)


Mark


----------



## Hiloboy

Can anyone using a cablecard with this set tell me what input you use to watch shows via the cablecard? Is it a separate input other than the inputs 1-6, like an input 7 or 8? I have my cable split, one going into the HD DVR and the other going into the "cable" part of the tv. I just want to know if I will be able to keep this configuration and still add the cable card.


----------



## RonDawg




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Hiloboy_
> 
> Can anyone using a cablecard with this set tell me what input you use to watch shows via the cablecard? Is it a separate input other than the inputs 1-6, like an input 7 or 8? I have my cable split, one going into the HD DVR and the other going into the "cable" part of the tv. I just want to know if I will be able to keep this configuration and still add the cable card.



While I don't use the cable card, from what I gather it allows the internal tuner to function like the box supplied by your cable company. So your current configuration is just fine.


CableCard is currently one way, so it won't let you do things like order Pay per View or On Demand video, and it also the cable company's EPG won't be functional.


----------



## Brad Smith

Does anyone know why the TV does not output analog audio when in TwinView? My receiver picks up the digital signal from an HD station, but when i swap to the other side for audio, I get no sound. Any ideas?


----------



## curse

As of 3/25/2005, mine will have been stuck in an HH Gregg service center for a warranty repair for half of the time I have owned it.


First, the good news: If memory serves, the HD picture quality is just stunning and the DVD picture isn’t far behind. All the good things others have reported are true. I could easily get broadcast HD from 35 miles on an old Radio Shack Yagi (sp?) antenna that had been in my attic before switching to cable (local cable doesn’t have HD yet)


In addition, one other attribute that deserves mention is the sound quality, which seems excellent to my untrained ears.


Now, for the rest of the story.


September 25, 2004: I purchased my set from Circuit City. S/N 806415. No reason to buy from them except a new store was opening and they were offering a 10% discount. I didn’t buy the CC extended warranty because the Sony warranty is for 2 years of in-home service. I picked this model because of the reviews here and in Consumer Reports and also because my son has had a Sony HD TV for a couple of years without problem.


December 23, 2004: While watching the TV, the set suddenly went blank without warning, funny noises or blue smoke. No picture, no sound, nothing. Nothing happened when it is turned on except a red light on the front blinks a few times - probably the same problem reported by others.


December 24, 2004: Called Sony to start the warranty repair process. After trying some simple fixes, I was directed to call HH Gregg for warranty repairs in the Indianapolis area. HH Gregg is regional chain of appliances stores in the Midwest, carrying much the same kinds of things as Circuit City. While they carry Sony products, for some reason they do not carry a KD34XBR960.


December 30, 2004: HHG service technician came to our house, verified warranty claim but determined it had to be taken to their repair facility. Because of the weight, he couldn’t take it with him and had to have a store delivery crew take it.


January 3, 2005: HHG picked up the TV.


January 7, 2005: HHG ordered a circuit board. I think it was a P/N A1303038.


February 15, 2005: The circuit board finally arrived at HHG.


February 19, 2005: HHG delivered the TV to my house. There was obvious damage to the front and side of the cabinet. When turned on, there was sound and a picture, but there were narrow horizontal gray bands apparent on reception from either antenna or cable. Luckily, the HHG delivery guys saw all of this and took it back to their shop without hassle.


February 25, 2005: I was informed by Sony and by HHG that the picture had been fixed but that HHG had ordered a new cabinet to replace the damaged one. This is supposed to take about 10 more days.


March 16, 2005: 19 days later, I was informed that the cabinet had arrived.


March 18. 2005: I was informed that the replacement cabinet was damaged and couldn’t be used. Somebody in authority was supposed to call to discuss the next action, but or course, nobody has for two days.


So, three months after the problem occurred, I still do not have my TV back. I won’t comment on how I feel about the level of customer service demonstrated by the companies mentioned because I would probably be sued for slander. I think the delays evident in my time-line are proof enough – as are their unwillingness to authorize a replacement, no matter how long I have been inconvenienced. The only concession I have received came from Sony when a nice lady finally authorized $200 for me to rent a replacement until my TV was fixed - and that has to run out during the latest HHG cabinet fiasco.


BTW, if there are any Circuit City, Sony or HH Gregg folks out there who want further proof and maybe try to salvage a bad situation, the Sony Event ID is E26713607, the HHG service order is 493616 and the CC sales slip number is 319400103816. My phone number will be found with any one of them. I will gladly report any such hero on this board.


Likewise, I will promptly post a message to this board whenever I receive a replacement television or whenever my original television has been returned to me in working order and without cabinet damage. Until then, I urge you to somehow learn from this and beware.


----------



## dc_pilgrim




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by curse_
> *Until then, I urge you to somehow learn from this and beware.*



Wow, my condolences and I hope that a hero steps forward to help. As some one who is readying to purchase this television - I am not sure what the lessons might be. Perhaps buy from a dealer with a service arm - or buy the retailer's warranty if I think that will make them more responsive. Wow.


----------



## dc_pilgrim

Anyone know the measurements of the very top of the XBR960 - particularly the depth - I am thinking about whether it is sufficient to hold a center speaker.


----------



## powerdog

Mine is holding a center speaker. It's about 6 or 7 inches deep. Even tilts the speaker down a little bit toward the listeners.


----------



## tennberg

Does anyone know if there are any available software or firmware updates for the KD-34XBR960?


I recently updated the software on my Rotel pre-amp and the firmware on my Denon DVD player, and was curious if there was anything I could apply to my TV.


Thanks!


----------



## mr2828

There was talk on this thread earlier of a firmware update for older sets made last year that you could accomplish via a memory stick, but I don't know more than that.


----------



## Brad Smith

Here's something I think *many* of you in this thread will hopefully find interesting and useful...


I had been having several issues with my XBR960 since I got it. One was the CableCard dropping channels and having to be reset periodically (occasionally giving a 161-6 error). The other was no audio for analog channels in TwinView (when connected to an AV Receiver). From what I read in this thread, the latter was just a normal issue with the TV, so I'd have to live with it.


The CableCard issue, however, is another story. According to Sony support, the 161-6 error often indicates a problem with the CableCard unit in the TV (the box, not the card itself). So I called the local service company and they ordered a replacement unit (a "Q Box", as they called it). Today the tech came out and installed it. While I'm still going to have to test for a few days to see if the channel dropping issue is solved, it did solve something completely unexpected...

*The audio works for analog channels in TwinView now (with internal speakers or with external via an AV Receiver)!* Apparently either the original Q Boxes in these TVs had a problem, or there is a software update not otherwise available that was installed on the new box. So those with TwinView audio problems, know this: it *can* be fixed!


I'll report back in a few days about the channel dropping issue.


Just a note: installing a new Q Box will reset all of your settings, as everything is stored on there. Be sure to write down your picture settings if you don't know them off hand.


EDIT: Another interesting note: The tech told me that the new Q Box would normally cost $820 if the set was out of warranty, excluding labor and shipping charges (they shipped the part overnight).


----------



## Mike3

I finally bought a MemoryStick and must admit it's a real nice feature.


I don't have any Sony cameras or video cams so I get video, images, and music from the PC via a card reader/writer.


It does real nice slide shows and the pictures from both my 3 megapixel and 5 megapixels look great. To show off your television even more I'd recommend cropping your pictures to fit. You can show them as is, but the pictures look much better when shown 16x9.


The TV has built-in piano music to play with your slide show or you can easily load MP3s to play with your slideshow. As I mentioned it also plays video, but I didn't have a lot to adequately judge how well it works. I think I had some low quality video.


The only complaint about the MemoryStick feature was the speed. I was loading what I consider to be average size jpgs (in the area of 400k) and when set to fast, the load time seemed to be about 6 or 7 seconds. I can only imagine that slow or medium must be really slow. It would be nice if you could set the time in seconds, but you can't have everything and I thing the fast time is as fast as it can go given the image size.


----------



## domiprod

Sorry this is long, but I have not seen this problem addressed at all in this thread, and I have read the entire 85 pages.


First off I should say I've had this TV for one week now and love it. Have read all the early horror stories herein, but am happy to report that my only issue besides the one delineated below is the common geometry problem, which is admittedly a bit irritating when watching non-16:9 material. (I will of course be contacting Sony to hopefully get this repaired via magnets et al once my 100 hour burn-in period has elapsed.)


OTA HD looks absolutely stunning - I haven't even adjusted the antenna input's picture settings yet or tweaked the antenna's positioning, merely threw it atop the TV in the general direction of the tower, and voila! I actually spend lots of time in high-end motion picture post-production facilities and I have to say this set arguably rivals the monitors they use for HD color correction.


My only dilemma is with DVD. The player I had used for three years (JVC XV-SA70) with my previous television (Zenith D32D51 HD-ready 4:3) worked flawlessly with it. Gave a gorgeous picture (in progressive mode, using component Monster cable) and I couldn't really ask for much better even knowing I was upgrading to a far superior TV. But I was certainly not expecting WORSE!...


Since I'm a film geek the first thing I did upon getting my XBR960 was not to tune in all these newfangled HD channels I could now get (I hardly watch any TV!) but rather to connect my DVD player. I must say I had somewhat of a freak-out moment when I hooked up my SA70 (via the same component Monster cables) and the picture went CRAZY Distorted, wavy, snowy, you name it. Well my levelheadedness prevailed and I realized I needed to switch to 16:9 mode in the DVD menu. Did that, yet the most pronounced problem persisted: a portion of the picture jumps/flits around like a filmstrip that has lost its registration and is flapping in the projector gate. Seemed like maybe it could be due to some sort of Progressive scan compatibility problem between the player and the TV, so I switched to Interlace. I know by reading this thread that the XBR960's Progressive mode is supposed to be better than any DVD player's, but there was a marked deterioration in picture quality when I switched to Interlace. I cycled through all the settings and the best looking combination was CineMotion and DRC Custom 3, but it doesn't even hold a candle to my old setup with the Zenith.


So there's obviously something amiss here. Still not wanting to start screaming at a Sony rep just yet, I connected my XV-N44 (also JVC) which I got as part of a home theater package a year or so ago. But I never wound up using that DVD player because the PQ was unfortunately much worse than the older SA70 model with which I had always been so impressed. Interestingly, one of the problems I had with the newer N44 player on my Zenith was a strobing/motion artifacting, particularly noticeable during pans and tracking shots. However, this problem was inexplicably not present when attached to the XBR960. Also please note that this player did not exhibit any of the flapping exhibited by the SA70 when used in Progressive mode, which I found to be quite odd. Same manufacturer, presumably using the same software, why the discrepancy? Equally perplexing is that the difference in PQ between Progressive and Interlace on the newer N44 model is nowheres near as pronounced as on the SA70, if there is one. Most importantly however, although the strobing issue is not present, the overall PQ of this unit is unfortunately unchanged between how it displayed on the Zenith: the images are simply not as crisp. (And yes, I've adjusted the player's internal settings.)


A characteristic that might be telling is that on both of these DVD players, the lack of detail seems to fluctuate to a small degree, almost like a focus flutter. Obviously, this did not happen on my older SA70 when connected to the Zenith. And I of course will be calibrating all my settings with DVE once my 100 hours have elapsed and hopefully a sharpness setting (which I have turned down significantly in the meantime) will magically resolve this "focus" issue... But that of course doesn't help explain the Interlace/Progressive inconsistency between the two machines, or of course why on earth the SA70 is flapping as if possessed when set to Progressive.


The only record I can see in this entire thread of anyone else reporting something akin to this symptom is by tennberg, whose issue was with a Denon playerand it appeared he soon after returned his 960? (tennberg: I see you still post on this thread, did you get a new one? How did you resolve this problem?) I don't think mine will come to a return, I am confident this is resolvable -- but I am still looking for the how and the why. I can't see any reason for a) the Interlace output to look any worse than the Progressive given the TV's specs, b) the Progressive to cause the crazy flapping, c) the PQ of the SA70 to be any worse on my XBR960 than it was on my Zenith, and d) for there to be any sort of "focus flutter" issues with DVD playback when there are none at all with OTA HD. (FYI, as far as I can tell through the flapping Progressive picture, there are no focus issues with the SA70 while in Progressive mode.)


As a point of comparison, I also hooked up my friend's Xbox via component and had none of these issues watching video from its hard drive, so it doesn't seem it could be the component circuitry at all. (In case you're wondering why I simply didn't play a DVD from the Xbox, its player does not function.)


My next step will be to borrow a high-end DVD player (like the Sony DVP-NS975) preferably with HDMI so I can test that too. If that delivers the needed results I guess I will buy one, but I don't see why I should need to as my SA70 worked so beautifully!


If anyone has any suggestions so that I can avoid all this hassle I would greatly appreciate it.


Best,

Josh


----------



## Brad215

Man AVS Forum is killing me........1st I got a Sony 34xbr960......then a panny AE700 w/B&W 81EF filter......Had to upgrade DVD player so a new panny S97 was in order....and don't forget the popcorn machine in the powerbuy (4oz Contempo). All this in the last 6 months. My wife's ready to leave me....Oh I forgot the bass shakers that came yesterday. Does this madness ever end? I hope not......


----------



## cheerdude

Having a CableCARD install issue with my new 34XBR960. When the card is installed... it doesn't see any channels (not even the analog ones). However, Comcast can see/communicate with the card and the card can respond back to Comcast. The one thing that the tech and I have noticed is that the Card's status says "Waiting to Start".


Anyone got a solution for this one? Comcast is planning on talking to Motorola (maker of the Card) about this... and they have asked me to contact Sony.


----------



## doretta




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by cheerdude_
> *Having a CableCARD install issue with my new 34XBR960. When the card is installed... it doesn't see any channels (not even the analog ones). However, Comcast can see/communicate with the card and the card can respond back to Comcast. The one thing that the tech and I have noticed is that the Card's status says "Waiting to Start".
> 
> 
> Anyone got a solution for this one? Comcast is planning on talking to Motorola (maker of the Card) about this... and they have asked me to contact Sony.*



In a logical world this would be a very stupid question but given past experiences with Comcast...


Have they tried a different card to make sure it's not just a problem with the card?


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by domiprod_
> *.....The only record I can see in this entire thread of anyone else reporting something akin to this symptom is by tennberg, whose issue was with a Denon playerand it appeared he soon after returned his 960? (tennberg: I see you still post on this thread, did you get a new one? How did you resolve this problem?) I don't think mine will come to a return, I am confident this is resolvable.....
> 
> 
> Best,
> 
> Josh*



Hey Josh,


My situation actually had to come down to a return. I traded in my Denon DVD-910 and got about a 90% credit of that purchase price toward a Denon DVD-2910. Since then, I have had no issues watching anything in 480p.


Apparently, there was an issue between my Sony KD-34XBR960 and the Denon DVD-910 when watching 480p material over component video. Denon didn't acknowledge it; I'm not sure why. It could be that it's a very specific problem that only a few people ran into so they didn't bother fixing it.


Good luck in your resolving your issue. I hope it turns out well.


----------



## jmccorm

Anyone have any luck or experience using their Windows based PC to *OUTPUT* video to this TV via firewire?


----------



## sector

Thought you folks might like the once over drill with a cablecard from Brighthouse and numerous over the air stations via an attic array including UHF grill antenna.


Not happy with the cable offerings. Hundreds of channels, few HD, waiting to get the full package as the people arrived with an incorrectly programmed card, leaving out services. They were harried. Not really comfortable with the card setup yet. My impression is the card is a simple filter with zero communications capacity either two way OR one way since the cable folks must return with another card to change the service. Whoever pushed THIS thing through has egg all over their faces. When all this is done, you may see him selling apples in Washington DC, just off K Street.


I bought the cable service and TV to get CBS HD and a few specialty channels one of which is the SciFi channel (NBC/Universal) with the new hit, Battlestar Gallactica. Oooops! Brighthouse is holding me and Universal hostage for this HD service. I know a few top guys at Universal Orlando, they won't be happy to hear this. GE doesn't listen too well when small fry like Brighthouse say "It's our way or the highway". BSG is their smash hit, on the cover of TV Guide last week.


The set is fantastic at 1080i. On can see the difference between 720P and 1080i from 25 feet away. SD is a small square in the middle. Audio is fine but will get new speakers from Ascend soon. Peeked into the service menu without changing anything as the geometry wasn't bad even at the left corner. Changed the color settings ...very easy to do with the remote and standard menu choices.


VERY happy with the TV but disappointed with the cable card and provider. No Monthly Guide, On Demand service, but you knew that. So I'm going to stiff these mopes and tell then here's what I'm willing to pay for a diminished package, dada dada. I bought into NetFlix...really great.


LOVE the DVD capacity through my Panasonic s97 HDMI. Fast, clear and the audio promises a WHOLE lot more with speakers. And guess what...one gets wonderful audio through HDMI, contrary to what you may have heard elsewhere. One cable does all. Getting a panny receiver SAX70 too.


Remote is OK but keep a flashlight handy for movie breaks.


I sit 10 feet away and that is just fine for a home theather and don't let anyone tell you differfent. Would do this over in a heartbeat for the XBR.


----------



## curse

A couple of weeks ago, I submitted Post No. 1680 concerning a protracted warranty repair and mentioned that I would report when it had been resolved.


A few days after that post went up, I received a call from HH Gregg informing me that there had been a misunderstanding and that the replacement cabinet was not damaged after-all. So, on March 26, TV was returned in perfect working and cosmetic condition - about 3 months after the problem first occurred.


So, what have I learned from this that you might want to keep in mind?


1. For cases where Sony does not have parts available to support warranty repairs, they will, if asked, pay for a rental. My check arrived about 2 weeks after I submitted the claim.


2. Similarly, I asked for an extension of my warranty for 3 months and received a written confirmation of their approval of that agreememt.


3. I doubt that I will ever buy an item like this again from a distributor who does not also do the factory warranty work. I can't explain why this would be better, but it just seems to make sense.


4. During this saga. I spent hours on the phone, on hold waiting for somebody to take my call at HH Gregg. Then, once I was finally talking to one of their 'Supervisors', I started dealing with them via email - no faster, but less wasted time. Sony, on the other hand, was much easier to deal with because they had voice mail and would call back.


By the way, I originally bought a Sony DAV-FR8 home theater system with this TV because there was a nice rebate. They really look nice together and the DAV offers a lot of nice features. BUT, the TV remote won't operate the DAV system. It is just not compatible and I seem to remember a notice to that effect on the Sony website. On the other hand, the DAV's remote will at least change channels on the TV. Go figure.


Cheers


----------



## Smackrabbit

The convergence on the left side of the screen on my XBR 960 (purchased in July 2004) seems to be worse than I remember when I first bought it. If I look at the box around the input label when on something like "Video 5", the right half of the box is crisp and square, but on the left side it starts to curve downwards, and I can make out distinct red and blue fringing to the point that they're almost seperate lines. Should Sony send a tech out to look at this and correct it, as I'm still in my warranty? Should I just call about this, as when I email I seem to get a form response. Thanks.


----------



## ray hummell

I have a new KD-34XBR960 that has a dark picture! It's like looking at programs through sun glasses. I am using TimeWarner San Diego and have installed a SA8300DVR cable box. When the cable is attached directly to the TV, the analog stations come throught clear and bright - but the digital and HD stations are dark with almost no shading. When connected via the cable box, all pictures are dark with minimal or no shading. (I have tried a Pioneer cable box and a SA3250HD box, but the picture is the same.) I have also spent considerable time trying to brighten up the picture using the TV controls. A Sony tech came to my house and adjusted the geometry and increased the internal brightness level, but didn't have an explanation for the dark picture. A Time Warner tech in the home office said that they have received some other complaints regarding dark pictures - they are looking into it, but who knows what they are doing.


I am awaiting the RMA from the Sony authorized e-tailer where I purchased the unit...oh well...


ANY SUGGESTIONS!!!!!


----------



## Mike3

Perhaps the issue is with your component inputs... have you tried dvi/hdmi? Have you tried internal QAM/HD? How do those look? How about a different componet cable? How does DVD look?


----------



## max2004

Just picked up my new XB960 today for a great deal. A small chain B&M just opened a 2nd & 3rd location in Houston and they had the 960 for $500 off. I took the ad to a larger national chain and got them to match it plus an extra 10% off the difference. Now, I just have to figure out a new DVD player (any suggestions), what cables I need to hook up to yet unpurchased DVD player, weather to keep my TIVO on the 960 or get the HD DVR from Time Warner or just the cable card, and what cables I would need for the TW DVR.


Anyway, I had been looking at the 960 for a while and wasn't quite ready to purchase but I could not pass up this one day only deal. I would of rather finished my homework and decided on a DVD player, TIVO or TW DVR, and had all the cables I needed plus the cable card from TW before I bought the TV so I could enjoy it to its fullest but I will have to settle for the HDTV that I can pick up from the cheap rabbit ears that I have. I have the 960 side by side with my old sony standard picture tube and the difference is just amazing. I can't believe I waited this long to take the plunge.


----------



## jmccorm

I thought I'd throw this in here. A retail source for KD-34XBR960 parts. And I do mean _parts_.
http://www.partstore.com/modeldetail...lose=0&exact=1


----------



## sector

Like you, I waited waay too long to get the XBR960. The Masters today was breathtaking. I have a cable card and have adjusted the PQ several times via the on screen menu options and feel that the control range is very wide and can accommodate all tastes.


DVD


You must consider the Panasonic S97 DVD, especially in concert with the panny xr70 digital receiver. BOTH are HDMI multi-channel audio compliant with ONE HDMI cable connection. The DVD quality is equally breathtaking , even in 480P, In fact it is difficult to believe it's not 1080i. I am getting Ascend speakers and an HSU subwoofer later this month. Netflix is a must...no more shlepping DVDs back to Blockbuster.


Receiver Panny XR70

Very hot item at $370 and 100 watts for seven channels of HDMI audio and video. Forget the boat anchor pioneers, Yamahas, Onkyos and Marantz...not that they are bad...just obsolete, heavy and inefficient as far a excess heat generation goes. The panny weighs 9.4 lbs. Sound and Vision reviewed it last month with very good marks.


The only issue witht eh XBR960 is a cable card box "161-6 error (mandatory service visit). I'll get a new box and get a service menu PQ tweak from the tech at the same time. A few dollars goes a long way.


----------



## triumph66




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by max2004_
> *Just picked up my new XB960 today for a great deal. A small chain B&M just opened a 2nd & 3rd location in Houston and they had the 960 for $500 off. I took the ad to a larger national chain and got them to match it plus an extra 10% off the difference. Now, I just have to figure out a new DVD player (any suggestions), what cables I need to hook up to yet unpurchased DVD player, weather to keep my TIVO on the 960 or get the HD DVR from Time Warner or just the cable card, and what cables I would need for the TW DVR.
> 
> 
> Anyway, I had been looking at the 960 for a while and wasn't quite ready to purchase but I could not pass up this one day only deal. I would of rather finished my homework and decided on a DVD player, TIVO or TW DVR, and had all the cables I needed plus the cable card from TW before I bought the TV so I could enjoy it to its fullest but I will have to settle for the HDTV that I can pick up from the cheap rabbit ears that I have. I have the 960 side by side with my old sony standard picture tube and the difference is just amazing. I can't believe I waited this long to take the plunge.*



Max,


I sent you a PM.


----------



## kleptophobiac

Does anybody have more specific footprint information? I have a retarded piece of furniture I need to fit a TV into, and simple rectangular dimensions are not good enough. How much of the TV is the full width? My furniture starts out at 37", gets about 14" wider, and then gets narrower again. Damn woman chosen furniture while I wasn't there....


----------



## mr2828

It's only full width for about 6 inches at the front. Then narrows linearly to approximately 22 inches at the back.


----------



## omeletpants




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by kleptophobiac_
> *I have a retarded piece of furniture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *



Nice! All the people here with Down Syndrome children thank you for kind words.


----------



## kleptophobiac




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by mr2828_
> *It's only full width for about 6 inches at the front. Then narrows linearly to approximately 22 inches at the back.*



Awesome, I think it'll work. Thanks.


----------



## jmccorm

Here's a KD-34XBR960 complaint that will sound amusing:

I cannot tell any difference between the TV being off, versus just the DVR being quasi-off and feeding a black video signal. The screen looks the same, and there are no indicators on the front that hint about the TV's status.


The LED in the front of the set doesn't stay on when the TV is on, which I have no complaints about. It is just hard for me to be sure that the TV has really turned off, without hearing the click or pressing a DISPLAY button or something. A few times I've left the set running and not even known about it until I turn my entertainment center back on.


Turning on the KD-34XBR960, however, is a different story. The degauss cycle makes a pretty loud noise, and slightly dims the lights in the room. There is no missing when you turn THAT television on!


----------



## DSperber

If you have "i-link standby" set to ON (in the Setup menu), when you power the TV off the "ilink standby" red LED will light up on the front of the set. That LED is normally unlit when the set is powered on.


This is my setting because I have four i-link devices, with the XBR960 as a "middle" device in the firewire daisy chain. Setting "ilink standby" to ON allows firewire data to be sent through the TV between two devices (e.g. from one of my D-VHS VCR's to the other, to copy something) without requiring that the TV be powered on.


I agree, it's interesting that there is at not at least a green LED somewhere on the front that comes on when the set is powered on.


----------



## Zerobit

I have had this TV for about a month now and I have noticed that the geometry is off on the edges of the screen. It slightly swoops up towards the bottom of the screen and down at the top. From what I have been reading on here it seems like a common problem. Would a Sony Tech be able to fix it in the service menu? Since the TV is new is that covered under the warranty?


----------



## Jon S

Horizontal convergence is adjusted by using magnets (no kidding) on the back of the CRTs. This makes it almost impossible to get perfectly right in any case, especially with wide screen sets. That is why this is a such a common issue.


----------



## nathan118




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by omeletpants_
> *Nice! All the people here with Down Syndrome children thank you for kind words.*



You're not supposed to call down syndrome kids retarded, that sucks.


----------



## rekalil

When I display the overscan test pattern on Digital Video Essentials (Chapter 12 Title 17) in Full Screen mode, the 5% overscan borders are off the screen and not visible. In addition, the circle in the middle of the test pattern is wider horizontally than it is tall vertically, and appears elliptical.

I would be very grateful if someone will please advise which of the service menu adjustments are relevant to correcting the overscan and "circularizing" the circle. It would be especially helpful if the advice included the direction in which the relevant values should be changed, i.e., whether to increase or decrease the current settings.

Thanks very much.

Sincerely,

Ron


----------



## mr2828

I think some of the test patterns on the essentials dvd are designed for older 4:3 aspect ratio TVs, which would make the circle out of shape. Make sure you are using one for widescreen or "anamorphic" TVs.


For adjusting any of this or the overscan you will have to access the service mode. I used some older instructions I found for the XBR910 - if you can find those it has an excel file containing all the adjustment parameters you'll need.


----------



## BTV Mark

Well, that's a tough one, because it's so subjective. I like the zoom mode. I think it's as "clean" as it is possible to be. I use it sometimes to fill the screen on SD programming.


Realize, of course, that you'll crop some of the picture and you'll see some noise, but the zoom mode doesn't distort as the horizontal and vertical stretch modes do.


Mark


----------



## pdroth

I only Zoom on SD programs that are in widescreen, although you lose a bit of picture on all sides. It's not much, but to me seeing more picture instead of the black vertical and horizontal bars is worth the small sacrifice.


Otherwise, I never use it or any other picture mode.


----------



## ptchristensen

Hi


We just had TNT-HD added to our Comcast programming in Los Angeles. I would like to save the +1 hour doing auto programming, so does anyone know where this channel is placed on the Sony tuner grid?


----------



## Phantastica

This is strange, I just reset my tv to the factory defaults through the service menu, and now the Color Axis setting is reversed. Setting it to "Monitor" makes the reds more intense, setting it to default makes the red de-emphasized.


Has anyone seen this happen before? Totally bizarre.


----------



## Warehouse

Can someone please comment on 4:3 picture quality (not stretched) compared to a dedicated 4:3 TV? I viewed this TV yesterday and the HDTV stuff looked great but the SDTV stuff looked really bad compared to the standard 4:3 TV next to this set. The salesperson told me it was the feed but I was looking for a 2nd opinion.


Also, will there be any burn-in problem if I continously watch 4:3 in the non-stretch mode?


----------



## mr2828

I think the 4:3 looks significantly better than the old 4:3 set this XBR replaced. Because of the DRC there are no scan lines visible and you get a really solid looking image - as long as the signal is good quality. Try to find a retailer that can hookup a DVD player with some 4:3 content to the set.


But if you are for some reason only going to be watching 4:3 continuously then why buy this set?


I find after 6 months living with it that my viewing habits have broken down into:


About 40% HDTV or DVDs in Full (widescreen) mode (this is edging towards 50%)


About 30% SD or DVD content that is letterboxed in Zoom mode (fills the screen)


About 30% 4:3 SD... most of this is crap reality and other lesser shows that I don't mind stretching using the Wide Zoom mode.


So I find I am only having potential burn-in 4:3 material non-stretched running maybe 20% of the time at the most. So I'm not worried about burn in - no sign of it so far, and as 4:3 material continues to decline, the percentage of time this set will be displaying it unstretched will continue to decline towards zero.


----------



## Q of BanditZ

Here's my story, folks. I'm leaving ALL options on the table.


First things first: This is the TV I should have saved up and bought for myself a year ago. Even now, I'm convinced that this is probably THE best widescreen tube currently on the market.


That being said, I got bit hard by the HD bug, "had to have it now", didn't have much money, so I settled on a Zenith 4:3 c32v37. Solid for what it is, but it's no Sony (as tubes go.)


In light of Xbox 360, PS3, and a bunch of minor issues adding up, I want to upgrade displays this Fall.


I've been browsing every forum around here and making a lot of trips to stores to scout out all the new technologies. I can't say I'm 100 percent confident in any of them.


My viewing distance is about 8-10 feet. Letterbox movies on my 4:3 32 inch tube leave something to be desired. I've been kind of dissatisifed with that for a while.


Should I consider buying this TV, even now, or is Sony coming out with a successor to the 960 anytime soon...or should I take the gamble on a 1080p ready display like a DLP come Fall?


My goal is to buy something that I won't turn around a year from now and feel mixed feelings about our outright regret...kind of like I do right now.


ALL thoughts appreciated.


----------



## Mike3

This TV is great, but obviously the longer you can put off a purchase the better a deal you can get... meaning if Sony is introducing a new model in a few months or even 6 months, the price will drop on the model being replaced. Or you have thew option of paying the premium on the new model. If you're really waiting for the next x-box or PS3 than wait for them before buying the TV, besides with the delays that normally come with these things you might be better off waiting for the xmas and after xmas sales.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Mike3_
> *This TV is great, but obviously the longer you can put off a purchase the better a deal you can get... meaning if Sony is introducing a new model in a few months or even 6 months, the price will drop on the model being replaced. Or you have thew option of paying the premium on the new model. If you're really waiting for the next x-box or PS3 than wait for them before buying the TV, besides with the delays that normally come with these things you might be better off waiting for the xmas and after xmas sales.*



Excellent advice! I was figuring that the Xbox 360 launch in November was going to be my unoffical deadline.


How much do I gain for HD or DVD watching, going from a letterboxed picture on a 4:3 32 inch Tube to a 34 WS tube?


Will 34 inch WS be good at 8-10 feet?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Q of BanditZ_
> *How much do I gain for HD or DVD watching, going from a letterboxed picture on a 4:3 32 inch Tube to a 34 WS tube?*



Night and day, if you ask me. I have a 34XBR960 right next to my 4:3 35" SD Mits CS35803 (which of course is larger than a 4:3 32) and there's really no comparison. Not only is the displayed 16:9 image larger on the XBR960 than the equivalent letterboxed image on the Mits, but the HD quality of the image makes it seem like another world.




> Quote:
> *Will 34 inch WS be good at 8-10 feet?*



I'd say 8-10 feet is good (I'd also say 5-8 feet is very good). But obviously the further back you sit, the easier it is for the surroundings to distract your eye (unless the room is dark) and a 34" 16"9 is, after all, not a big widescreen. Also, the further back you sit the smaller the displayed image seems... even if the room is dark.


You're not going to get a theater-like immersive sensation from a 34" TV, no matter what. But the picture on the XBR960 (once set up well) is so spectacular that you can't stop watching it, or looking for new content (like on DiscHD) to generate "wows". I usually sit on the floor about 5 feet from it, mouth agape, looking for imperfections that aren't there. And I'm coming from a four year love affair with a Sampo.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by DSperber_
> *Night and day, if you ask me. I have a 34XBR960 right next to my 4:3 35" SD Mits CS35803 (which of course is larger than a 4:3 32) and there's really no comparison. Not only is the displayed 16:9 image larger on the XBR960 than the equivalent letterboxed image on the Mits, but the HD quality of the image makes it seem like another world.*





Wow! That's encouraging!



> Quote:
> *I'd say 8-10 feet is good (I'd also say 5-8 feet is very good). But obviously the further back you sit, the easier it is for the surroundings to distract your eye (unless the room is dark) and a 34" 16"9 is, after all, not a big widescreen. Also, the further back you sit the smaller the displayed image seems... even if the room is dark.*





This will be a dark room, but your points are well taken.



> Quote:
> *You're not going to get a theater-like immersive sensation from a 34" TV, no matter what. But the picture on the XBR960 (once set up well) is so spectacular that you can't stop watching it, or looking for new content (like on DiscHD) to generate "wows". I usually sit on the floor about 5 feet from it, mouth agape, looking for imperfections that aren't there. And I'm coming from a four year love affair with a Sampo.*



That's exactly what I'm going to balance in mind vs. buying one of these new 1080p ready DLP's come this Fall.


The XBR960 is the closest thing I know of to a "safe bet" and it's something that I know I can buy with confidence and not worry about the bugaboos that come with early adoption and such.


And PQ means EVERYTHING to me. I'm crazy enough to consider sacrificing some size for the best PQ.


So...thou hast given me much food for thought.














I forget which thread it was in, but supposedly there was a news article that said Sony would be dropping the prices on many of their current sets in July or so.


I guess it would behoove me to wait until at least July if I decide to make a move on this set or the xs955.


For the XBR960, I have no choice but to go online, so that means paying MSRP at Crutchfield but getting great service. $200 less will go a long way.


----------



## Jon S

Sony did not show any new widescreen CRT displays this year at their annual new product show for dealers. This may mean they may be considering discontinuing CRTS in the very near future. They have already discontinued CRT monitors for PCs. I know they are betting a lot on their LCD sets.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> _Originally posted by Jon S_
> *Sony did not show any new widescreen CRT displays this year at their annual new product show for dealers. This may mean they may be considering discontinuing CRTS in the very near future. They have already discontinued CRT monitors for PCs. I know they are betting a lot on their LCD sets.*



That's terrible news.


----------



## jmccorm

Firewire? Anyone? Gotten the firewire to work sending video either to or from your Windows XP PC? I can receive video from my Motorola DCT-6412 just fine to the TV, and I can receive it to the PC as well. Just I can't get the PC to communicate to the TV. Windows recognizes it as a new device "Sony KD34XBR960", no drivers.


----------



## jmccorm

I _might_ be onto something with the Firewire and the KD34XBR960 and Windows. I've added a bit to the firewire/Windows XP thread, but I think I need the help of someone who knows how to twiddle Windows device drivers to get them to do what you want. I'm just a UNIX guy.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...31#post5655431


----------



## Artwood

Not only have I heard nothing about Direct-view Widescreen CRT, but I've heard nothing about RP CRT from Sony either. I hate to say it but that tells me they're going to discontinue CRT but they're holding off on saying so because they feel like once they make the announcement the prices on all remaining CRTs still in the pipeline will plummet--a similiar thing happened when Panasonic got out of the RP CRT buisness. A bad thing for us Direct-view CRT fans, but there should be some fantastic deals on the Sonys if you can corral one of the last ones!


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Artwood* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not only have I heard nothing about Direct-view Widescreen CRT, but I've heard nothing about RP CRT from Sony either. I hate to say it but that tells me they're going to discontinue CRT but they're holding off on saying so because they feel like once they make the announcement the prices on all remaining CRTs still in the pipeline will plummet--a similiar thing happened when Panasonic got out of the RP CRT buisness. A bad thing for us Direct-view CRT fans, but there should be some fantastic deals on the Sonys if you can corral one of the last ones!



This makes me sad.










I just have to try and be patient. I'm so tempted/eager to just pull the trigger on the XBR960 right now.


I can't buy an XBR product within a 2 hour driving radious of any direction, so I'm going to be forced to go online for it. Probably with Crutchfield.


They're a great company and there's no question about their customer service, but I'm VERY annoyed that I can't seem to get them to budge on MSRP whatsoever. There's just nothing you can tell them that makes them budge.


I guess I could comfort myself on the idea that I won't pay the high 7 percent Ohio sales tax. I guess that's some consolation.


Paying MSRP for something feels like mortal sin to me.


----------



## Jon S

Locally, some dealers are now reporting they are no longer able to obtain stock of Sony RP CRT sets. This may mean Sony may quietly let inventory go down before announcing the end of the product line to avoid discounting. By the time you want to get a set, it may be long gone.


I also noted that the same dealer is selling 34XBR960 for $1999 with the stand which is lower than normal.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jon S* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Locally, some dealers are now reporting they are no longer able to obtain stock of Sony RP CRT sets. This may mean Sony may quietly let inventory go down before announcing the end of the product line to avoid discounting. By the time you want to get a set, it may be long gone.
> 
> 
> I also noted that the same dealer is selling 34XBR960 for $1999 with the stand which is lower than normal.



I'd like to see that become the MSRP outright. If the news story in some other thread around here is true, I'd have to wait until July for Sony to implement that kind of price drop.


I'm completely at the mercy of the Internet for getting this TV.


----------



## POWERFUL

Q of BanditZ try www. jr.com and check up the 34XBR960. You will be pleasantly surprised.


----------



## Q of BanditZ

I saw JR's price but I wasn't sure about a few things with them.


I just ordered the 960 from Crutchfield this morning and I must say: Their customer service is beyond insanely good. WOW! Talk about peace of mind! I was nervous about ordering something big and expensive like a TV over the Internet but I called them on the phone and it just couldn't be a plusher setup all the way.


So...I'm a 960 owner now! It should be here at the end of the week. I'll be scanning this thread but I look forward to any tips or recommendations from FELLOW 960 owners!


Wow, it's great to finally make a decision, know it's the right one, and get it done!


----------



## hancox

A good choice. I'd be interested in what the upconverter DVD boxes do with this. If it's anything like what I experienced with PS2 games, you might be a little surprised.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hancox* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A good choice. I'd be interested in what the upconverter DVD boxes do with this. If it's anything like what I experienced with PS2 games, you might be a little surprised.



I'm using an Onkyo DV-SP1000 and I'll have it upscaling to 1080i. I'll bet I'll be real happy!


----------



## bobhoppel

Q...............


I've followed your comments in this and other forums. Congratulations on your 960 decision!! I bought one(960) last summer and I am also the proud owner of the Qualia 006 since March. They are both the best sets in their categories, in my opinion.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bobhoppel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Q...............
> 
> 
> I've followed your comments in this and other forums. Congratulations on your 960 decision!! I bought one(960) last summer and I am also the proud owner of the Qualia 006 since March. They are both the best sets in their categories, in my opinion.




Heh, did the 960 get relegated down to the bedroom in lieu of that big beast Qualia?


----------



## bobhoppel

Hey Q,


No, the Qualia replaced an HD MITS RPTV 73". The neat thing about the 960 is that it's convergence pretty well stays put and I have had no screen burn issues with the 960. The Mits on the other hand, does have the FOX News logo burned into the screen and I have had to re-converge the Mits at least twice a week. The Qualia has a WOW FACTOR in it's picture, but so does the 960. My Mits can't hold a candle to either of them!! The resolution on both of the SONY units is unbelievable! Again, you made a smart purchase!!


----------



## bobhoppel

Q.....


By the way, I also own three Zenith 318 DVD's, which all have the "old" firmware. I love them!!!


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bobhoppel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Q,
> 
> 
> No, the Qualia replaced an HD MITS RPTV 73". The neat thing about the 960 is that it's convergence pretty well stays put and I have had no screen burn issues with the 960. The Mits on the other hand, does have the FOX News logo burned into the screen and I have had to re-converge the Mits at least twice a week. The Qualia has a WOW FACTOR in it's picture, but so does the 960. My Mits can't hold a candle to either of them!! The resolution on both of the SONY units is unbelievable! Again, you made a smart purchase!!



From what I gather, I should expect not to have any serious geometry or convergence issues with the 960. Good!


----------



## jmccorm

I've had some limited success now in outputing video to the KD-34XBR960 via firewire. Unfortunately, it isn't with the standard Windows driver. It is the "firebus" DTV Recorder from vivid logic:
http://www.vividlogic.com/products/dtvr_overview.html 


Unfortunately, it replaces the standard firewire drivers. And I seem to have some problem with most of my clips having sound cutouts and pixelation (which play fine on the PC, and mpeg2repair give a clean bill of health). Anyone in a position to play around with it?


NOTE: Pixelation/sound dropouts are always in the same spots in the video, and seem to always happen the same way.


----------



## JR_U

Has anyone purchased the Sony KD-34XBR960 from J&R Music and Computer World? I just need some feedback on this online retailer. If it's forbidden to talk about such thing in here, please p.m. me. THanKs.


----------



## ojo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jon S* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Locally, some dealers are now reporting they are no longer able to obtain stock of Sony RP CRT sets. This may mean Sony may quietly let inventory go down before announcing the end of the product line to avoid discounting. By the time you want to get a set, it may be long gone.



Well crud. I was hoping to be able to purchase the 960 (or even the XS955) by mid to late fall. If these suckers aren't going to be around by then (and worse, if they aren't going to be supported by Sony for very long) then I may have to rethink that.


Any other "right at the top of the list" alternatives people have? Despite my preference of a tube widescreen HDTV, I've recently been told by several people that "LCD projection" TVs are getting better, and are in a similar price range.


I dunno. I'm a complete newb at all of this, so any guidance greatly accepted.


Thanks,

ojo


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ojo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well crud. I was hoping to be able to purchase the 960 (or even the XS955) by mid to late fall. If these suckers aren't going to be around by then (and worse, if they aren't going to be supported by Sony for very long) then I may have to rethink that.



Complete rumor and speculation! There's no news anywhere that says Sony is cutting these TV's off this year. I just bought a 960 earlier this week without hesitation and I have no doubts I'll have support for however long I own the product.


If you want the XBR960 or XS955, buy with confidence!



> Quote:
> Any other "right at the top of the list" alternatives people have? Despite my preference of a tube widescreen HDTV, I've recently been told by several people that "LCD projection" TVs are getting better, and are in a similar price range.



Nowhere near the same PQ in terms of price/value for your dollar. These are still the best.


----------



## spyboy

JR_U


No TV's from J&R but a ton of other stuff. Excellent company to buy from. Since Sony packages these 200 pounders to withstand travel all over the world, double boxing shouldn't be much of an issue. Having said that, I recall that Crutchfield was doing some amazing double boxing on TVs, at least they were some years ago. Also, while Crutchfield is still charging $2,200 for the XBR, shipping is free. Depending on where you live, shipping from J&R could be hundreds.


----------



## JR_U

Thanks spyboy but I lost interest on the Sony XBR960. I don't think I could tolerate going smaller in screen size, coming from a 42" Sampo plasma. Now, I'm leaning towards the Samsung HL-R5668 56" 1080p DLP. I just hope that the PQ is comparable to the Sony KD-XBR960.


----------



## Q of BanditZ

I need tips on the best way to do this:


I'd like to have the option to play certain PC games (like the new GTA:SA that just came out on the PC and Xbox today) on my XBR960, should I so choose.


Currently, the Onkyo 1000 uses the HDMI slot on the XBR960. I don't want this to change.


Do I need a DVI-I cable to connect the PC to the TV, or will DVI-D suffice? I guess I'd either use one of those GeFen DVI switchers...unless they've made an HDMI one. In any event, an HDMI-DVI cable may get involved.


What's the best way to connect my PC to the XBR960? What do I need and what kind of switcher(s) would be involved based on what I've described?


----------



## JR_U

If you're interested in Gefen switchers, you might wanna visit their forum. Ask if your setup is compatible with their switchers. Because from what I've read some people were having issues mixing DVI and HDMI sources. Good luck.
http://forum.gefen.com/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=2


----------



## Q of BanditZ

Thanks!


----------



## Spokker

I have an XBR960 and a question about the image. It seems that when the image pans at a certain speed from left to right the image appears wavy. For example, in video games that use a top down view the visuals will appears to wave across the screen like a flag. It's not very noticable in 3d games unless the camera is panning from left to right. This is also noticable in movies and TV shows but not as much.


Is this something that can be fixed? I know that widescreen CRTs are suspectible to certain geometry problems that are just a part of the technology, but is a wavy image one of them?


Thanks for your help.


----------



## mr2828

I have noticed this very slightly on my set, and have mostly corrected it via service mode adjustments. What causes it is a lack of linearity - in other words if you put up a grid display on the screen like from the video essentials dvd you will see that some of the grid squares are not the same width as other squares. This becomes noticeable in side to side pans in movies or games. Also the vertical linearity can be off, you should check both using a display grid and ruler if you want to get super-precise.


----------



## Q of BanditZ

Question:


I just had the infamous blinking light/TV not turning on incident happen to me. I unplugged it for about 30 seconds, plugged it back in, and all was well.


Is this a pre-cursor to some larger problem, or just some annoying bug I'm going to have to live with?


Other than that, the TV has been flawless for the two weeks I've had it, thus far.


----------



## bobhoppel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Question:
> 
> 
> I just had the infamous blinking light/TV not turning on incident happen to me. I unplugged it for about 30 seconds, plugged it back in, and all was well.
> 
> 
> Is this a pre-cursor to some larger problem, or just some annoying bug I'm going to have to live with?
> 
> 
> Other than that, the TV has been flawless for the two weeks I've had it, thus far.




I had the same thing happen twice in the first month when I got the set last summer. Both times I did what you did(Unplugged the set) and haven't had the problem since. Hope this helps.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bobhoppel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had the same thing happen twice in the first month when I got the set last summer. Both times I did what you did(Unplugged the set) and haven't had the problem since. Hope this helps.



Weird.


Any idea what that is or why it happens?


----------



## bobhoppel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Weird.
> 
> 
> Any idea what that is or why it happens?




No Idea!


----------



## TheBlend

I'm thinking of getting the 36XS955.....


At first I was considering the 34XBR960, but I feel the screen isn't big enough and the 36XS955 is perfect.


So from reading the forums there aren't much of a difference between the two in 16:9? If the HD is similar in display then 36XS955 is the one im gunning for.....also once it is in HD I understand it will crop the top and bottom, is there a setting to make it fullscreen regardless? Like vka mentioned will the black on top and bottom cause problems later?


I want to hear everyone's thought on the 36XS955 and the 34XBR960!!


Thanks!


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheBlend* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm thinking of getting the 36XS955.....
> 
> 
> At first I was considering the 34XBR960, but I feel the screen isn't big enough and the 36XS955 is perfect.
> 
> 
> So from reading the forums there aren't much of a difference between the two in 16:9? If the HD is similar in display then 36XS955 is the one im gunning for.....also once it is in HD I understand it will crop the top and bottom, is there a setting to make it fullscreen regardless? Like vka mentioned will the black on top and bottom cause problems later?
> 
> 
> I want to hear everyone's thought on the 36XS955 and the 34XBR960!!
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Basically, you're 16:9 material will be roughly the equivalent of a 32-33 inch Widescreen TV. It really is going to depend on your viewing habits. For me, I wanted maximum size possible for 16:9 and "future proofing", so...since all HD is 16:9 anyways, buying a 4:3 TV in the here and now just didn't make much sense to me. YMMV.


This site may help you out further: http://www.cavecreations.com/tv2.cgi 


Both are awesome TV's.


----------



## TopGunHD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Question:
> 
> 
> I just had the infamous blinking light/TV not turning on incident happen to me. I unplugged it for about 30 seconds, plugged it back in, and all was well.
> 
> 
> Is this a pre-cursor to some larger problem, or just some annoying bug I'm going to have to live with?
> 
> 
> Other than that, the TV has been flawless for the two weeks I've had it, thus far.



Yeah I've had that happen, too. I turn on the set, the red light blinks for awhile, then it just stops and no picture comes up. Unplugging the set and plugging it back in a bit later solves the problem just like that.


I think I noticed that this happens if I turn the set off and immediately try and turn it back on, though I'm not sure if it's related to that or not.


----------



## TopGunHD

Hey everybody. I'm pretty new to these forums and just wanted to put in my two cents. I purchased an XBR960 a few months ago and have been loving it for all the qualities you already know about.










There are a few little quirks I have noticed and would like to discuss. In the upper left-hand corner of the screen, where the XBR displays what video input it is on, the actual "Video #" box curves down just a bit towards the left-hand side. Also in the lower left-hand corner, the information box displayed there has a slight distortion to it. Is there a quick fix for this, or is it something I have to live with? Is it something that can be serviced on-site, or must it be sent away?


Hmmmmmmmmmm, that's all for the moment, actually, but I'm sure I'll come up with more questions. I'm still reading through the many pages of this thread. Thanks!


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TopGunHD* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yeah I've had that happen, too. I turn on the set, the red light blinks for awhile, then it just stops and no picture comes up. Unplugging the set and plugging it back in a bit later solves the problem just like that.
> 
> 
> I think I noticed that this happens if I turn the set off and immediately try and turn it back on, though I'm not sure if it's related to that or not.



For me it happened after the TV had been off for the night and well into the morning. (Normal useage. I had turned if off that night when finished using it and turned it on at some point the next day for more useage.)


----------



## Ryan48

I have this Tv and I love it.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ryan48* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have this Tv and I love it.



As do I. I can't wait to get it ISF calibrated in a month or two, to really put it over the top.


----------



## Brad Smith

I just wish I could find someone to ISF calibrate mine.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Smith* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just wish I could find someone to ISF calibrate mine.


 www.lionav.com .


These guys are some of the best in the land that I know of. Why not drop them a line?


----------



## Brad Smith

Ah. I had checked them a few months ago and no tours were scheduled near Nebraska. Looks like there may be a chance this summer. Thanks for suggesting I look!


----------



## WOLVERNOLE

Do folks actually notice much P.Q. difference for the better between the new 960 model and last year's comparable model??


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WOLVERNOLE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do folks actually notice much P.Q. difference for the better between the new 960 model and last year's comparable model??




960 vs. 910? Yes.


----------



## Moegames




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Artwood* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not only have I heard nothing about Direct-view Widescreen CRT, but I've heard nothing about RP CRT from Sony either. I hate to say it but that tells me they're going to discontinue CRT but they're holding off on saying so because they feel like once they make the announcement the prices on all remaining CRTs still in the pipeline will plummet--a similiar thing happened when Panasonic got out of the RP CRT buisness. A bad thing for us Direct-view CRT fans, but there should be some fantastic deals on the Sonys if you can corral one of the last ones!



Not true at all bro...Direct View CRT's are going no where anytime soon..even with all these technologys for tv's over the last 5 years...none of them can still beat a good old direct view CRT such as the XBR when we talk picture quality. Infact its safe to say we'll be able to buy direct view crt tv sets for another 10 years or so until these newer technologys surpass DV crt tv's in PQ and also remember the price of these new technologies..its gonna be a bit before they can be as affordable as a DV crt tv.


Besides, what your saying is your own theory, nothing more


----------



## Tom Parker

I'm thinking hard about getting this set.


I already have an HDTV tuner, and that's the technology that's most likely to change over time. So, outside of the built in tuners, is there a $600 advantage to the XBR over the monitor only?


Thanks!


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tom Parker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm thinking hard about getting this set.
> 
> 
> I already have an HDTV tuner, and that's the technology that's most likely to change over time. So, outside of the built in tuners, is there a $600 advantage to the XBR over the monitor only?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Tuner, Firewire, PIP, Customizeable DRC.


If you don't care about any of these things, get the xs955. Same fundamentals. Same tube. Same PQ.


The 910 is inferior to the xs955 series now in terms of technology and refinements. Is it earth shattering? No. Will you be unhappy if you buy a 910? Probably not.


But should you buy a 910 instead of an xs955 or xbr960 if money allows? No.


----------



## Tom Parker

Alright then, would you compare/contrast the $ value of the xs955 vs xbr 960?


Thanks for the help!


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tom Parker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Alright then, would you compare/contrast the $ value of the xs955 vs xbr 960?
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help!



Hard to say. Very subjective.


I think if you shop around with legit places even, (I bought mine at Crutchfield) you basically say to yourself: "Am I willing to pay an extra ($200) or so for x and y additional features?"


For me, the answer was yes so I bought the xbr960 instead of the xs955. PIP was something that I had to have, because I use it al the time. The Firewire is something I wanted for future proofing and flexibility, and I just wanted the extra bells and whistles. (anti glare screen, the adjustable DRC, etc.)


You really can't lose either way. It simply comes down to the features you want and how much those are worth to you. The fundemanetals are exactly the same on the xs955 and XBR960. Same tube. Same PQ.


----------



## Tom Parker

Thanks! The firewire might tip me over. I haven't found anti-glare screens effective at anything but introducing more glare. I appreciate the insight.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tom Parker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks! The firewire might tip me over. I haven't found anti-glare screens effective at anything but introducing more glare. I appreciate the insight.



Whatever they did with this screen...is GREAT!


----------



## gigaguy

Just ordered my 960 today! after schlepping around and wanting one since before they came out, should be here in a week or so. Woohoo. I shopped BB hard while they were slashing anfd burning the XS955 with my open box and clearance coupons, but couldn't find one, BBs here sold out. CC has em but no coupons. Really wanted the 960, I like the extra bells.


Do I need a new DVD player, or are the signal processes in the 960 as good as or better than most new DVD players? I only have a Panny DVD recorder/player.

Yes I'm doing a search too.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gigaguy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just ordered my 960 today! after schlepping around and wanting one since before they came out, should be here in a week or so. Woohoo. I shopped BB hard while they were slashing anfd burning the XS955 with my open box and clearance coupons, but couldn't find one, BBs here sold out. CC has em but no coupons. Really wanted the 960, I like the extra bells.
> 
> 
> Do I need a new DVD player, or are the signal processes in the 960 as good as or better than most new DVD players? I only have a Panny DVD recorder/player.
> 
> Yes I'm doing a search too.



The 960 does a nice job on its own. You probably wouldn't see much benefit from say...a $200 or so upscaling DVD player, but if you can demo one with ease, by all means, do so.


Now, on the other hand, if you own something a little more hefty, like I do (the Onkyo DV-SP1000), then yes, there's some PQ benefit to be had.


----------



## High Def 03

Any good deals on this tv now?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *High Def 03* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Any good deals on this tv now?



Legit, believe it or not, it's going to be Crutchfield right now. Free shipping and no tax go a long ways for you plus the absolute red carpet treatment from beginning to end.


You might be able to convince Circuit City to do a price match along with whatever your haggling skills could yield.


----------



## tanis38

I recently purchased this set. I have not been able to get cable yet to see what the set can do with HD programming since I just moved to a new apartment. I hear it's pretty impressive.


I mostly use my TV for DVD watching and playing Videogames. Upon connecting my DVD player to the tv, I was not initially very impressed with the picture quality. I popped in my Avia calibration disc and did notice a HUGE improvement. However, I still think that the picture can be sharper and more vibrant. So, I'm thinking it's just the limitations of my dvd player. I have a really old Toshiba player (sorry, don't know the model), which I've probably had for about six years now. Non Progressive scan. I have it hooked up with component cables. My problem is that on most discs, I tend to get a bit of a digitized shimmering effect in the background. After tweaking the set, it has gone down considerably and is almost non existent on discs like Finding Nemo and Episode II. But it's still there if I look for it. I'm wondering if it's time to get a new player, since I'm using one from 1998 or 1999. Will a new player drastically improve my picture quality? If so, can anyone recommend one for this tv in the


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tanis38* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I recently purchased this set. I have not been able to get cable yet to see what the set can do with HD programming since I just moved to a new apartment. I hear it's pretty impressive.



Just wait until you see HD on this thing!




> I mostly use my TV for DVD watching and playing Videogames. Upon connecting my DVD player to the tv, I was not initially very impressed with the picture quality. I popped in my Avia calibration disc and did notice a HUGE improvement. However, I still think that the picture can be sharper and more vibrant. So, I'm thinking it's just the limitations of my dvd player. I have a really old Toshiba player (sorry, don't know the model), which I've probably had for about *six years now.*/quote]
> 
> 
> Upgrade time!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Non Progressive scan. I have it hooked up with component cables. My problem is that on most discs, I tend to get a bit of a digitized shimmering effect in the background. After tweaking the set, it has gone down considerably and is almost non existent on discs like Finding Nemo and Episode II. But it's still there if I look for it. I'm wondering if it's time to get a new player, since I'm using one from 1998 or 1999.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Will a new player drastically improve my picture quality? If so, can anyone recommend one for this tv in the
> 
> 
> Hit the DVD forum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## tanis38

Many thanks Q!


----------



## Hammerli

Wow it's tough to find info in a 60 page thread.


I just picked up my 960 yesterday and hooked it up tonight. The HD picture is incredible with Charter HD. I've got a weird cast going on where everyones faces have a yellow tint (well at least on CSI which I was watching tonight as I set up everything else.)


More critically I have a very noticeable pincushion on top left and right, like 1/4" per side in 4:3 aspect. In addition any straight line drops off towards the bottom on the right side but looks fine on the left. When we opened the box, the front lower right foam piece was all busted up but there were no signs of external damage. I'm wondering if it was dropped and something was knocked out of alignment. I'm thinking I should just exchange it for another one or is there a simple way I can adjust some parameters to remedy the problems?


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hammerli* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wow it's tough to find info in a 60 page thread.
> 
> 
> I just picked up my 960 yesterday and hooked it up tonight. The HD picture is incredible with Charter HD. I've got a weird cast going on where everyones faces have a yellow tint (well at least on CSI which I was watching tonight as I set up everything else.)
> 
> 
> More critically I have a very noticeable pincushion on top left and right, like 1/4" per side in 4:3 aspect. In addition any straight line drops off towards the bottom on the right side but looks fine on the left. When we opened the box, the front lower right foam piece was all busted up but there were no signs of external damage. I'm wondering if it was dropped and something was knocked out of alignment. I'm thinking I should just exchange it for another one or is there a simple way I can adjust some parameters to remedy the problems?



If the store you got it from allows for returns within 30/60 days with no questions asked, I would suggest returning it and trying another 960. What have you got to lose?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hammerli* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've got a weird cast going on where everyones faces have a yellow tint (well at least on CSI which I was watching tonight as I set up everything else.)
> 
> 
> More critically I have a very noticeable pincushion on top left and right, like 1/4" per side in 4:3 aspect. In addition any straight line drops off towards the bottom on the right side but looks fine on the left.



There are several other threads on "tweaks" and "service codes" in this forum. Much good information is to be had in them, regarding getting into the Service Menu and adjusting things using the hundreds of micro-adjustments possible on this set (i.e. other than the usual brightness, color, etc. that's available to the ordinary user).

Sony Service Codes articles and comments 


Of course, even when numeric values are reported for these micro-settings (available on both PDF and XLS form), your own settings may differ. Each large-screen CRT is different, even for the same model. For example, your pincushion can certainly be addressed in the "geometry" group of settings, but the correction amount for your particular irregularity is clearly going to be your own value.


If you have a serious convergence or geometry problem (including bending and bowing of horizontal lines, which cannot be addressed by Service Menu tweaks) you should contact Sony and have them schedule a visit from an authorized factory service technician. Make sure you insist that he comes out with adequate magnets to place on the back of the picture tube, as that is (truly) the only way to deal with some of these issues. This is a free visit, under warranty.


And if he decides he's finished, that he's gotten the set "close enough, within factory specs" and you're not satisfied, call Sony and request a second visit from a technician from a local authorized service provider. In my experience they're more willing to spend the time on your set than the factory guys are. This too will be a free visit, under warranty.


But, when it's all done, any out-of-the-box serious defects will be corrected. And then you can begin your own personal journey of tweaks and adjustments with the user controls and service menu items to achieve as close to perfection as you have time to invest. I can assure you that when you get the initial issues corrected by the technician (and it seems all of us have faced) and you now begin to fine tune your XBR960 using a calibration DVD (like Avia or Digital Video Essentials) to get started, you won't believe the set came out of the Sony factory as it did when you first got it out of the box. It will be that different, honestly.


When you're done... it will be GLORIOUS!


----------



## Q of BanditZ

I can't stress this enough for everyone that has this set:


Throw it into Pro and Monitor. Right away you'll be amazed at how much better and more realisitc your colors will be. Calibrate and fine tune from there.


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There are several other threads on "tweaks" and "service codes" in this forum. Much good information is to be had in them, regarding getting into the Service Menu and adjusting things using the hundreds of micro-adjustments possible on this set (i.e. other than the usual brightness, color, etc. that's available to the ordinary user).
> 
> Sony Service Codes articles and comments
> 
> 
> If you have a serious convergence or geometry problem (including bending and bowing of horizontal lines, which cannot be addressed by Service Menu tweaks) you should contact Sony and have them schedule a visit from an authorized factory service technician. Make sure you insist that he comes out with adequate magnets to place on the back of the picture tube, as that is (truly) the only way to deal with some of these issues. This is a free visit, under warranty.
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> When you're done... it will be GLORIOUS!



DSperber:


I spoke to an ISF certified technician (one who is highly regarded in the AV industry) last year about getting my 960 ISF calibrated. I mentioned to him that I had some bending of horizontal lines and asked him if during the ISF calibration, he would be using magnets to correct the problem. I don't remember his exact words, but I do know that he highly recommended NOT using magnets of any kind and using the set's service menu and a calibration disc/spectrometer/etc. to correct other distortions as much as possible.


I am assuming that the amount of horizontal bending is due to where the set is on the earth and in what direction it is facing (because of the earth's magnetic field). Assuming you added magnets to correct any issue, you would have to go through the process again if you moved the set in your house or moved to another part of the country.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> DSperber:
> 
> 
> I spoke to an ISF certified technician (one who is highly regarded in the AV industry) last year about getting my 960 ISF calibrated. I mentioned to him that I had some bending of horizontal lines and asked him if during the ISF calibration, he would be using magnets to correct the problem. I don't remember his exact words, but I do know that he highly recommended NOT using magnets of any kind and using the set's service menu and a calibration disc/spectrometer/etc. to correct other distortions as much as possible.
> 
> 
> I am assuming that the amount of horizontal bending is due to where the set is on the earth and in what direction it is facing (because of the earth's magnetic field). Assuming you added magnets to correct any issue, you would have to go through the process again if you moved the set in your house or moved to another part of the country.



Whatever the answer may be, I'm very eager to get it done, since I have a bit of a bending issue myself.


----------



## DSperber

The magnets are required when there is a vertical convergence problem (i.e. on horizontal lines that are bent or curved or s-shaped or bowed). The Service Menu convergence adjustments are only usable for horizontal convergence problems (i.e. on vertical lines).


These small flat magnets (with a piece of tape attached, so that they can be stuck onto the back of the picture tube once the location is determined experimentally) are standard Sony parts. The technician should come out with a whole mess of them, so that he can be sure to complete the adjustment.


If you look at the back of the tube as it arrives from the factory (if the cover is removed, by the technician if you get one to come out) you will likely see lots and lots of magnets stuck on seemingly almost at random though that's not the case, installed there are the factory as their best-try to eliminate convergence errors off of the assembly line. There's no way to avoid this entirely with a large rectangular shaped CRT picture tube.


This is usually done with a mirror in front of the set and the technician in the back, playing with magnet placement and looking in the mirror to see the effect. When "goodness" occurs the magnet tape is pressed onto the tube, and he moves on to the next area of convergence or geometry problem. This continues until your tube looks perfect, or great, or pretty good, or acceptable... depending on his motivation and your insistence.


I would think that an ISF technician would NOT be willing to perform this type of adjustment. It's meant for a qualified Sony service technician to do this type of stuff. I've never had my XBR960 ISF tuned, but I'm guessing the ISF guy would do nothing more than use the service menu to tweak things... assuming he's fully fluent in the Sony service menu. But he can't address all of the picture tube flaws that can't be handled by the service menu, such as localized curvature of straight lines which requires magnetic compensation to straighten out.


It's one thing to deal with a fixed-pixel all-digital display. It's another to deal with an analog CRT. I would guess the ISF guy will assume your set is mechanically perfect and will deal with service menu tweaks... but not mechanical tweaks.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The magnets are required when there is a vertical convergence problem (i.e. on horizontal lines that are bent or curved or s-shaped or bowed). The Service Menu convergence adjustments are only usable for horizontal convergence problems (i.e. on vertical lines).
> 
> 
> These small flat magnets (with a piece of tape attached, so that they can be stuck onto the back of the picture tube once the location is determined experimentally) are standard Sony parts. The technician should come out with a whole mess of them, so that he can be sure to complete the adjustment.



When I called Sony, I couldn't get past the call center clerk, who read from a script and told me that what I was seeing was perfectly normal. I'd even go as far as saying that this guy was kind of rude to me. I just couldn't get past him or get it done.


It's almost certain I'm going to be at the mercy of an ISF man to get this all done.



> Quote:
> I would think that an ISF technician would NOT be willing to perform this type of adjustment.



I've encountered a few here and at HTF who do this.



> Quote:
> It's meant for a qualified Sony service technician to do this type of stuff. I've never had my XBR960 ISF tuned, but I'm guessing the ISF guy would do nothing more than use the service menu to tweak things... assuming he's fully fluent in the Sony service menu. But he can't address all of the picture tube flaws that can't be handled by the service menu, such as localized curvature of straight lines which requires magnetic compensation to straighten out.
> 
> 
> It's one thing to deal with a fixed-pixel all-digital display. It's another to deal with an analog CRT. I would guess the ISF guy will assume your set is mechanically perfect and will deal with service menu tweaks... but not mechanical tweaks.



Then I think you and some others need to coach me on what exactly to say to Sony should I try to call them again and get this same kind of useless call center guy like I did the first time.


Perfecty normal, my @$$.


----------



## POWERFUL

Use the Sony Service website and they will make sure you get a in-home tech.


----------



## Hammerli




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There are several other threads on "tweaks" and "service codes" in this forum. Much good information is to be had in them, regarding getting into the Service Menu and adjusting things using the hundreds of micro-adjustments possible on this set (i.e. other than the usual brightness, color, etc. that's available to the ordinary user).
> 
> Sony Service Codes articles and comments



Thanks, I know have a folder of downloads that should take days to read. I've tried searching this thread and the thread you mentioned to find the sequence to access the service menu. I actually found it late last night, but failed to write it down and can't seem to relocate it. As I recall it was 4 buttons, could someone let me know what the sequence is?


Thanks


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *POWERFUL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Use the Sony Service website and they will make sure you get a in-home tech.



It's too bad that I have this slight vertical convergeance issue. If it were horizontal, than I would carefully venture into the service menu, via Ken Tech's thread, and try and adjust it myself.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hammerli* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Found it, but for some reason Service Menu Sequence doesn't return it, so I'll post it here in case anyone else is having the same difficulty locating it.
> 
> 
> The sequence is Display, 5, Volume +, Power.



Thanks!


----------



## Hammerli




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hammerli* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks, I know have a folder of downloads that should take days to read. I've tried searching this thread and the thread you mentioned to find the sequence to access the service menu. I actually found it late last night, but failed to write it down and can't seem to relocate it. As I recall it was 4 buttons, could someone let me know what the sequence is?



Found it, but for some reason Service Menu Sequence doesn't return it, so I'll post it here in case anyone else is having the same difficulty locating it.


The sequence is Display, 5, Volume +, Power.


----------



## liquidneba

I just bought a slighty used Sony XBR960 w/stand. The previous owner purchased back in October of 2004 (delivered in November). They watched in Vivid the whole time they owned it, but thankfully according to them, they didn't watch the TV too much. They moved into another house, and after measuring the TV, they couldn't get it around a corner into a room. Thus it sat barely used back in their old home, until I picked up (and the matching stand). I got home and hooked up my Panny DVD-RP82 to it, component video cables (Radio Shack variety, but buying Monster cables soon). Everything looks good in HD, but I know I need a new antenna for OTA.


Anyway, I was watching STAR WARS: The Empire Strikes Back. (480P through my Panny DVD-RP82) The scene where the Millenium Falcon is trying to dodge the Imperial Star Destroyers I notice, some smudging. This happens when the Falcon flies across the screen. I notice "trails." The Falcon is very bright and it's a big contrast vs. black space. It's almost if the phosphors are a bit slow (kinda like a slow response time on a computer LCD screen) to change from bright white to black. I also notice a similar issue whenever Darth Vader in his black costume walks across the screen. I haven't checked any other DVDs I own, but this annoys me. The picture besides (in pro mode wout/calibration) looks great (will calibrate it myself eventually). Is this a defect inherent to this TV, or does something need to be adjusted in the Service Menu?


Thanks in advance,


----------



## gigaguy

I'm definitely not the most knowledgeable person here, but sometimes the DVD itself, the DVD player, and the cables can also effect what you see on the screen, s well as the display itself.


----------



## Brad Smith

I have seen this smudging/ghosting/trailing on my set, too, and I've been working with a local Sony repair place to fix it. No luck yet.


----------



## liquidneba

Well as the cliche goes, misery loves company. I've also noticed this phenomenon with other DVDs.


It happens no matter what I tried with the DVD player, like letting the TV do the progessive output (Cinemotion), vs. the player, hooking up the player up without component cables. Also I hooked up my VCR to the screen, watched some Batman and noticed it too.


I've watched analog NTSC broadcasts, same thing. I haven't had a chance yet to evaluate it in HDTV thoroughly yet. I suspect this is "in" the display.


The TV was manf. September 2004, Ser. # 9001828. I called up Sony and after some cookiecutter "improvement tips", my ticket was elevated to level 2. (Must be kinda like Defcon 2. ;-) ) So I should be getting a call today... pretty much I want to get a Sony tech out to the TV.


Any service menu tweaks to alleviate this issue? Should I be patient, and hope it goes away? Lastly, am I being too picky and I should just suck it up?


Thanks in advance,


----------



## Q of BanditZ

Footnote: There were some known (and unforgiveable) graphics' glitches on those Star Wars SE DVD's, especially Episode IV. FWIW before you really start blaming the TV.


----------



## mr2828

I haven't noticed any trailing on my set.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr2828* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I haven't noticed any trailing on my set.



Neither have I.


Again, folks, let me recommend "pro" and "monitor" settings, right from the get go. Also, if either your brightness or contrast settings are higher than 50, those are TOO HIGH, for sure!


Color should be no higher than 31-ish. VM on Low. DRC values no higher than 25 each. Sharpness 31-ish. (These are all CEILING values.)


This is a good place from which to start calibrating. I can't recommend going out of pro and monitor for ANY applications, quite honestly.


----------



## Brad Smith

I think the trailing is a defect. I read this entire thread prior to purchasing the set in February, and didn't find a single person citing the problem. With as many picky people (in a good way) that are on this forum that own this set, I find it extremely unlikely it is "normal" for the set.


That being said, I've been working with the local Sony repair place, and it hasn't been fixed yet. Will keep everyone updated.


FYI, I calibrated my TV with Avia instantly when I got it.


----------



## Q of BanditZ

I just took delivery of AVIA today and the hour I've spent with it, just with the basic menus (no service menu venture yet) has proven to be quite deducational.


I found out, not surprisingly, that I was fairly close on some things and not so close on some others. I had used a THX Optimizer as my stop gap until getting this.


Long story short: Color stays at 31, dead center value. Hue stays at also at dead center.


Sharpness HAD BEEN at dead center 31...and believe it or not, that's actually a little high. Now I have it around 20. I was tempted to turn it down to 15.


Brightness is at about 45 now for me. I was actually right with that one. Picture dropped from nearly the same value down to about 35.


Making these adjustments while already being in pro and monitor settings goes a LONG ways towards getting you home.


NOW, with AVIA in hand, I may venture into Ken Tech's thread, with my notebook open to record default settings and VERY carefully make a handful of adjustments.


----------



## liquidneba

Thanks for the input about calibrating. I had a small gripe with the Pro setting, I don't have a calibration disc yet, so I just copied your settings until I get one. I did get brightness set pretty good, by using my Casablanca DVD. Quick question, I'm currently using the de-interlacing circuit (based on Faroudja/Genesis FLI2200 chip) on my Panny DVD-RP82. Any idea on how this compares to using the Cinemotion 3:2 pulldown on the TV itself?


An update on my quest of video nirvana. I checked with many DVDs, with the VCR, on regular TV, and HDTV, this same "trailing" occurs, it only happens with very high contrast objects moving around the screen, like what I describe earlier. I've seen text crawls do this on HDTV as well. It is very subtle, but as many people here I have a discriminating eye.


After talking to the 2nd level tech. support, I have a dispatch number for an in-house tech to check the TV out. Not bad for owning the TV since this past Sunday! ;-)


----------



## Dark Rain




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Smith* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think the trailing is a defect. I read this entire thread prior to purchasing the set in February, and didn't find a single person citing the problem. With as many picky people (in a good way) that are on this forum that own this set, I find it extremely unlikely it is "normal" for the set.
> 
> 
> That being said, I've been working with the local Sony repair place, and it hasn't been fixed yet. Will keep everyone updated.
> 
> 
> FYI, I calibrated my TV with Avia instantly when I got it.



I had 2 Toshiba 30HFX84s that had the trailing problem, and my current Sony 30HS420 has it as well, but to a lesser degree. I've had the TV for 5 months and it hasn't gone away. This problem might just be source related, causing longer decay times of the phosphors. I seem to only notice it when watching DVDs.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *liquidneba* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input about calibrating. I had a small gripe with the Pro setting, I don't have a calibration disc yet, so I just copied your settings until I get one. I did get brightness set pretty good, by using my Casablanca DVD. Quick question, I'm currently using the de-interlacing circuit (based on Faroudja/Genesis FLI2200 chip) on my Panny DVD-RP82. Any idea on how this compares to using the Cinemotion 3:2 pulldown on the TV itself?



I know that your DVD player is considered a "legend" for component video players at this point, but it wouldn't hurt to experiment and do some A/B tests. See which looks better to you!



> Quote:
> An update on my quest of video nirvana. I checked with many DVDs, with the VCR, on regular TV, and HDTV, this same "trailing" occurs, it only happens with very high contrast objects moving around the screen, like what I describe earlier. I've seen text crawls do this on HDTV as well. It is very subtle, but as many people here I have a discriminating eye.
> 
> 
> After talking to the 2nd level tech. support, I have a dispatch number for an in-house tech to check the TV out. Not bad for owning the TV since this past Sunday! ;-)



I really tried to spend some time with Avia yesterday. All told, I spent about two hours repeatedly listening to the instructions and following them. All I did was use the regular video menus. The service menu will be an adventure for another day.


All of this is out of pro and monitor:


A few surprises: My sharpness really needed to be turned down. I had left it on default at 31, in the middle. Even that was too high! I turned it down to 15 with Avia and kept VM on low.


Another lesson I learned was: A little contrast goes a LONG ways.


My settings now, adjusted by Avia:


Picture/contrast: 35

Brightness is at 47.

Color is at 31, dead center

Hue is at dead center

Sharpness: 15

VM: Low

Color temp= Neutral


Now, these aren't universal settings that everyone will benefit from, but these might give you a ballpark idea from which to experiement for yourself.


I was gratified to see that with blue, green, and red "visors" that Avia provides you with, my color and saturation are DEAD ON like this.


This is why I can't stress "pro" "monitor" and "color neutral" right off the bat for any Sony CRT tuve owner, as applicable, before you even begin to calibrate.


I'll never go outside of these settings for any applicaition. I also made sure that these settings are applied to ALL inputs and applications across the board.


I watched some material last night with these new settings and I really was surprised at how "better" the PQ was compared to my settings that I had fudged off of a THX Optimizer.


----------



## phusg

You lucky b**tards!


I've just been researching a nice


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *phusg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You lucky b**tards!
> 
> 
> I've just been researching a nice


----------



## liquidneba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I know that your DVD player is considered a "legend" for component video players at this point, but it wouldn't hurt to experiment and do some A/B tests. See which looks better to you!



Yea, I've had it for a the last two years, I bought it off of Ebay, because by the time I found it, it was sold out and discontinued. I've had it hooked up to my dad's 1985 Sony KV-25XBR, (the first television worthy of the XBR designation) which is still going strong, btw. It looked great on that TV, it looks awesome on the 960. Currently I'm having the player do the legwork, no need to stress my baby.













> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I really tried to spend some time with Avia yesterday. All told, I spent about two hours repeatedly listening to the instructions and following them. All I did was use the regular video menus. The service menu will be an adventure for another day.
> 
> 
> All of this is out of pro and monitor:
> 
> 
> A few surprises: My sharpness really needed to be turned down. I had left it on default at 31, in the middle. Even that was too high! I turned it down to 15 with Avia and kept VM on low.
> 
> 
> Another lesson I learned was: A little contrast goes a LONG ways.
> 
> 
> My settings now, adjusted by Avia:
> 
> 
> Picture/contrast: 35
> 
> Brightness is at 47.
> 
> Color is at 31, dead center
> 
> Hue is at dead center
> 
> Sharpness: 15
> 
> VM: Low
> 
> Color temp= Neutral
> 
> 
> Now, these aren't universal settings that everyone will benefit from, but these might give you a ballpark idea from which to experiement for yourself.
> 
> 
> I was gratified to see that with blue, green, and red "visors" that Avia provides you with, my color and saturation are DEAD ON like this.
> 
> 
> This is why I can't stress "pro" "monitor" and "color neutral" right off the bat for any Sony CRT tuve owner, as applicable, before you even begin to calibrate.
> 
> 
> I'll never go outside of these settings for any applicaition. I also made sure that these settings are applied to ALL inputs and applications across the board.
> 
> 
> I watched some material last night with these new settings and I really was surprised at how "better" the PQ was compared to my settings that I had fudged off of a THX Optimizer.



I need to get this disc or DVE!




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Smith* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think the trailing is a defect. I read this entire thread prior to purchasing the set in February, and didn't find a single person citing the problem. With as many picky people (in a good way) that are on this forum that own this set, I find it extremely unlikely it is "normal" for the set.
> 
> 
> That being said, I've been working with the local Sony repair place, and it hasn't been fixed yet. Will keep everyone updated.
> 
> 
> FYI, I calibrated my TV with Avia instantly when I got it.



Btw. an update on my saga, I'm having a Sony trained tech come out with a new board, next Weds. to fix the trailing problem. I talked with him on the phone today. He said that the problem is most likely slow video processing, (yippee) I'm very satisfied with the Tube itself, no issues, but I want this problem cleared up so I stop worrying about PQ. I'll let everyone know how successful it goes.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My settings now, adjusted by Avia:
> 
> 
> Picture/contrast: 35
> 
> Brightness is at 47.
> 
> Color is at 31, dead center
> 
> Hue is at dead center
> 
> Sharpness: 15
> 
> VM: Low
> 
> Color temp= Neutral
> 
> 
> Now, these aren't universal settings that everyone will benefit from, but these might give you a ballpark idea from which to experiement for yourself.



I know it goes without saying, but there's probably no single exact settings set which works on everybody's XBR960. Unlike fixed-pixel digital displays (like the Sharp 45" Aquos LCD, where I've now seen three that seem to be electronically identical and all look exactly the same with the same settings values), CRT's don't have that uniformity.


Throw in other CRT-related variables (like the use of magnet solutions to convergence/geometery problems), playing around with service menu tweaks (including additional convergence/geometry adjustments as best as can be done this way), and it's clear that "to each, his own". Everybody's results will be different.


For example, thanks to suggestions from the "tweaks" thread in this forum, I've found that the RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB adjustments in the 2170P-4 service menu group produced a PROFOUND improvement in eliminating red-push. I actually just tried the suggested 13, 15, 5,4, values and was stunned at what they did. So I've left them just that way and haven't tried to tweak any further. But without these particular adjustments, the rest of my settings would be quite different. I think everybody should START with these four settings and proceed from there. I have made no other color or grayscale adjustments whatsoever, only these four. But coupled with my near-perfect convergence (thanks to three visits from Sony techs and lots of magnets, followed by my own service menu adjustments) I'm 100% satisfied with the color produced by my XBR960.


So again, "your mileage will vary" depending on the whole set of adjustments you've gone through. This is to be expected, as are "standard" large-screen rectangular CRT artifacts such as bowing and slightly imperfect convergence in the corners.


What is also important is that when Avia or DVE is used to help calibrate and tweak, remember that this is a 480p input, likely on component video. As such, it will be good... to adjust that input source type. But it might not be (in fact likely won't be) exactly right for other inputs, such as a second 720p/1080i component video input, or firewire input, or HDMI input, or the SD inputs. In fact there might be substantially different user menu adjustments needed for the other inputs, even depending on the MPEG decoder output of your DVD player. Hence: PRO.


That having been said, I'm not going to claim that my settings are better than yours, if you are satisfied with what you've done. But I will say that I have some very very different settings, not just for DVD input but for my other inputs. Again, I have the RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB values set as above. If you don't, my other user menu settings will likely not apply to your situation. But if you haven't adjusted these crucial four 2170P-4 items, I strongly suggest that you do. And then go back and see how your current settings need re-adjusting.


But... I will say that I feel setting sharpness to MIN is crucial, at least for me. This point was strongly emphasized in DVE, and I've been running with 0 (or min) sharpness for many years, first with my previous Sampo and now with my XBR960. It is stunning (to me, anyway) how much more realistic and detailed an HD image appears when it has 0 sharpness added. I was initially not prepared for just how dramatic is the effect of "turning off" sharpness, but I've now taken to similar adjustments even on my other SD sets. It might take a bit of getting used to if you've never tried it, but I think once you try it you will very quickly realize that this is how things should be set. Of course, YMMV, but make sure you use proper test content for your evaluation... such as stunning HD from DiscHD or INHD (like a baseball game).


Also, while I didn't discover "monitor" (in Advanced -> color axis) until later, even now I've not changed the "default" setting for that item. I have experimented with it a little, but found that to my eye "monitor" makes skin look a bit green (given my other current settings) so I've gone back to "default" which to me puts just the right amount of red into flesh color. Others may differ in their opinion, but I like it just the way it is (although obviously it's also because of the interaction of my other settings).


Also, I have Clear Edge VM set to OFF, and color temperature set to COOL, for ALL inputs. And of course I have PRO mode set for all inputs. So I don't need to mention them below. I know others have color set to NEUTRAL, but I like COOL in conjunction with my other settings.


Otherwise, my values vary significantly from each other (and from your single posted set) depending on input source. I know, this means nothing to your environment (other than the principle that settings will indeed vary by input), but you might experiment with some of my values (especially sharpness):


(INPUT1) I use it for D* SD via S-video. The following settings are for picture, brightness, color, hue, sharpness: 39, 33, 34, 0, min. NOTE: I also have DRC set to "progressive" for this input.


(INPUT3) I use it for off-air SD and S-VHS, via my JVC 40K: 40, 34, 34, 0, 19 NOTE: this is the only input where I have sharpness set to something other than 0/minimum, but honestly the only channel I watch this way is off-air UPN which I can't get any other way. Setting sharpness to MIN seems harmful to picture quality, so I've settled at 19 here.


(INPUT5) I use it for 480p DVD (Sony DVP-9000ES) component video: 34, 36, 36, G1, min NOTE: adjusted using DVE.


(INPUT6) I use it for 720p/1080i component video (6412, JVC 40K and DT100U) through a Zektor switch: 35, 32, 31, 0, min


(INPUT7) I use it for HDMI from JVC DT100U, mostly just for comparison: 35, 32, 31, 0, min NOTE: I'm still experimenting with HDMI, but I think I prefer the picture watching via firewire.


(i-link) I use it for watching via firewire from 6412, JVC 40K and DT100U: 34, 31, 31, 0, min



As you can see, except for DVD my color setting for all inputs is factory 31. Also, again except for DVD my hue setting is again at factory 0. It's mostly contrast (picture) and brightness where each input has been adjusted significantly from factory default PRO settings.


But... sharpness min, Clear Edge VM off, color temperature cool, and color-axis default. I like it.


----------



## Warehouse

Price Drop! This model just dropped by $300 at a large electronics chain. You can also get an additional 10% off through the 4th by using the code "DJA3QLGADC"! Does this mean that a new model's on its way?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Warehouse* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Price Drop! This model just dropped by $300 at a large electronics chain. You can also get an additional 10% off through the 4th by using the code "DJA3QLGADC"! Does this mean that a new model's on its way?



No, there's no new model forthcoming.


----------



## gigaguy

Just got my 960, my first HD set. I'm running it on the dark side cause I thought it was better for the tube for break-in. I always read it was bad to run high on brightness anytime but this set seems dark, so is it gonna be okay to lighten it up after a while?

My build date is May 2005 and I see no distortion visually to my newbie eye. All scroll tickers and lines look straight and scrolling true. I'm coming from a Sony 32XBR100 which was a high end tube and looked 3d for a SD set.

Not totally blown away yet, but after some tweaking to my input choices and settings I hope to be. I'm gonna move my couch a foot closer too!

SD is a drag on a 16:9 set. I hate the fill modes. only full screen HD pic I've seen is from PBS, the networks HD don't fill the screen but I don't know why. I'm using extended TW cable for now, no box.


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gigaguy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just got my 960, my first HD set. I'm running it on the dark side cause I thought it was better for the tube for break-in. I always read it was bad to run high on brightness anytime but this set seems dark, so is it gonna be okay to lighten it up after a while?
> 
> My build date is May 2005 and I see no distortion visually to my newbie eye. All scroll tickers and lines look straight and scrolling true. I'm coming from a Sony 32XBR100 which was a high end tube and looked 3d for a SD set.
> 
> Not totally blown away yet, but after some tweaking to my input choices and settings I hope to be. I'm gonna move my couch a foot closer too!
> 
> SD is a drag on a 16:9 set. I hate the fill modes. only full screen HD pic I've seen is from PBS, the networks HD don't fill the screen but I don't know why. I'm using extended TW cable for now, no box.



Congrats on the new set. Are you using a CableCARD from TW in your area? You will need either that or an HD cable box to decode the incoming signals from TW, unless you are getting the HD signals OTA and using the 960's built-in tuner.


I do't stretch anything on my set for SD material. I prefer to watch shows in their original format ratio, whether that was 16:9 or 4:3.


----------



## CrocHunter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gigaguy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just got my 960, my first HD set. I'm running it on the dark side cause I thought it was better for the tube for break-in. I always read it was bad to run high on brightness anytime but this set seems dark, so is it gonna be okay to lighten it up after a while?
> 
> My build date is May 2005 and I see no distortion visually to my newbie eye. All scroll tickers and lines look straight and scrolling true. I'm coming from a Sony 32XBR100 which was a high end tube and looked 3d for a SD set.
> 
> Not totally blown away yet, but after some tweaking to my input choices and settings I hope to be. I'm gonna move my couch a foot closer too!
> 
> SD is a drag on a 16:9 set. I hate the fill modes. only full screen HD pic I've seen is from PBS, the networks HD don't fill the screen but I don't know why. I'm using extended TW cable for now, no box.



It's ok to turn the brightness up a bit, say 6-8 clicks up from the middle.Sony sets tend to be set too dark from the factory so to get a proper black level you have to up the brightness a bit.


It's contrast that you have to worry about, i would'nt set it no higher than 50 the most.mines at 47.


----------



## gigaguy

Thanks guys,

Just using straight TW cable in, I get about 4 or 5 HD channels. I wanted to try Cablecard but balked at TW charging $30 to install it, when I know other nearby TW markets let you just pick up the card like a converter box. So I'm just testing it out. I hate using cable boxes and their remotes but the HD DVR box is a great option too.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gigaguy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks guys,
> 
> Just using straight TW cable in, I get about 4 or 5 HD channels. I wanted to try Cablecard but balked at TW charging $30 to install it, when I know other nearby TW markets let you just pick up the card like a converter box. So I'm just testing it out. I hate using cable boxes and their remotes but the HD DVR box is a great option too.



I don't like CableCard for this one reason: It's one way only. It means you're paying big bucks and you can't even use on On Demand or Pay Per View. No interaction on your end possible.


----------



## gigaguy

I never use those services and I hate the klutzy interface on the cable boxes and remotes, I do like the idea of the HD DVR they rent, but I'm already eyeing the Sony HD DVRs for sale but not sure if they work with my local TW cable service programming.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gigaguy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I never use those services and I hate the klutzy interface on the cable boxes and remotes, I do like the idea of the HD DVR they rent, but I'm already eyeing the Sony HD DVRs for sale but not sure if they work with my local TW cable service programming.



I can't imagine why they wouldn't work, but call TWC first and ask them.


----------



## bhealy

I'm thinking of getting the xbr960. I'm leaning towards getting it at BB or CC, or Magnolia, I'd rather have it delivered but I don't like the risk of damage in transit. Is there a place to buy from online that treats these tv's with care?


I also think about what I'd have to pay to return the thing if something went wrong.










My dvd player is a JVC xv-n5sl. It seems like an amazingly good player to me.


I bought the Panasonic xp-30 and thought this player looked better. Plus it was easier to use.


I'm going to buy a set-top antenna for OTA HD shows. Stuff like Lost and 24.


I don't watch much tv, I'm big into dvd's and video games.


Should I have it delivered from crutchfield or buy it here from a store?

I live in a house and it won't go up any stairs.


This site is JUST what I need right now. Thanks for the help.


----------



## Dark Rain




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhealy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Should I have it delivered from crutchfield or buy it here from a store?
> 
> I live in a house and it won't go up any stairs.



I'd recommend you get it locally. But if you do buy it from Crutchfield, ask them who they use for freight shipping. If they tell you it's Eagle, then forget it. I had several problems with them. Only one guy showed up and expected me to help them bring the 200 pound TV into the house. It was the freight carriers fault since they were trying to save money by sending only one guy. I called Crutchfield and they apologized.


The other thing that bothered me was that the delivery guy told me that your package goes through 4 or 5 places, depending on how far you live from Crutchfield's location. What this means is that it gets banged around a lot. Crutchfield puts these devices on the package to indicate whether or not the box was dropped or tipped over. Mine were torn off indicating that someone had probably dropped it. Crutchfield contacted Eagle freight and they got on their ass about it. This is another reason I'd recommend you buy local. Granted, it's impossible to know what happens to it from any place you buy it from, but I won't buy anything this big over the Web again.


I'm not slamming Crutchfield, but they need to find a different freight carrier. They have a great tech and sales staff, but the freight company they use (Eagle) sucks.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dark Rain* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'd recommend you get it locally. But if you do buy it from Crutchfield, ask them who they use for freight shipping. If they tell you it's Eagle, then forget it. I had several problems with them. Only one guy showed up and expected me to help them bring the 200 pound TV into the house. It was the freight carriers fault since they were trying to save money by sending only one guy. I called Crutchfield and they apologized.
> 
> 
> The other thing that bothered me was that the delivery guy told me that your package goes through 4 or 5 places, depending on how far you live from Crutchfield's location. What this means is that it gets banged around a lot. Crutchfield puts these devices on the package to indicate whether or not the box was dropped or tipped over. Mine were torn off indicating that someone had probably dropped it. Crutchfield contacted Eagle freight and they got on their ass about it. This is another reason I'd recommend you buy local. Granted, it's impossible to know what happens to it from any place you buy it from, but I won't buy anything this big over the Web again.
> 
> 
> I'm not slamming Crutchfield, but they need to find a different freight carrier. They have a great tech and sales staff, but the freight company they use (Eagle) sucks.




Gosh, I had nothing but perfection from start to end, including with Eagle. Maybe it's a regional thing?


----------



## jimkjr

Well,I finally went and done it after reading all of the posts(I think) relating to the xs955! My 955 will be delivered sometime next week,so I do have a few questions to start.

1. I have read both pro and con about which cables to use and how to hook up.Wether to use composite from sat receiver(not hd) to Tv or to use s-video only if very good cables.

2.And what to use from DVD player and to rcvr. or to tv?

3. Do's and don't's out of the box?


Rcvr. is Sherwood Newcastle R-945,and DVD is Panny DVD-RV80,I also have a Pioneer Dv-563a that I got just to play sacd's and dvd-a's on,so I don't know how that would be for a dvd player.

Thanks to all who already contributed!

Jim


----------



## Dark Rain




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Gosh, I had nothing but perfection from start to end, including with Eagle. Maybe it's a regional thing?



It probably is. A customer rep from Crutchfield did tell me that they have had problems with Eagle in other areas as well. All I say is be careful and don't accept any package that has had the drop or tip indicaters ripped off.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dark Rain* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It probably is. A customer rep from Crutchfield did tell me that they have had problems with Eagle in other areas as well. All I say is be careful and don't accept any package that has had the drop or tip indicaters ripped off.



Always good advice.


In my case, these guys called me out of Dayton, OH, where they were stationed. In a record amount of drving time, they found my house, and they took their sweet time delivering my 960 up a flight of stairs, doing me a huge favor and moving an old TV down two flights of stairs, and taking all the packaging out of there. Needless to say, I personally tipped these guys because I was so impressed.


----------



## Hammerli

After one week of owning the 960, I find myself watching Discovery HD even when there's other stuff on I would normally watch instead. After one service call from my local store and two magnets, I still have geometry issues that need correcting, but other than that the picture is incredible.


I'm using a Denon 2910 running HDMI into the 960. What is the best setting to output from the DVD player with respect to format? If I output at 1080i does the 960 then do no conversion on the signal? I'm also using a Charter Motorola cable box and outputting from that at 1080i seems to yield the best results into component inputs.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hammerli* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> After one week of owning the 960, I find myself watching Discovery HD even when there's other stuff on I would normally watch instead. After one service call from my local store and two magnets, I still have geometry issues that need correcting, but other than that the picture is incredible.
> 
> 
> I'm using a Denon 2910 running HDMI into the 960. What is the best setting to output from the DVD player with respect to format? If I output at 1080i does the 960 then do no conversion on the signal? I'm also using a Charter Motorola cable box and outputting from that at 1080i seems to yield the best results into component inputs.



Set it to 1080i over HDMI.


I find that I keep DiscoveryHD on a lot and put the TV on mute while I go do other things. I want to get 100 hours on this TV fairly quick so I can get ready for an ISF job. What better channel to use than DiscoveryHD!


----------



## Ladd

Silly request:


I can find the physical dimensions of the entire XBR960 set on the web, but would someone please confirm the vertical height and width of the visible picture tube area in inches: X inches tall by Y inches wide.


----------



## ptchristensen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Silly request:
> 
> 
> I can find the physical dimensions of the entire XBR960 set on the web, but would someone please confirm the vertical height and width of the visible picture tube area in inches: X inches tall by Y inches wide.



From the manual


994 x 652 x 605 mm (39 1/8 x 25 5/8 x 23 7/8 in)


----------



## ptchristensen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ptchristensen* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> From the manual
> 
> 
> 994 x 652 x 605 mm (39 1/8 x 25 5/8 x 23 7/8 in)



Sorry, that's W x H x D


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ptchristensen* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> From the manual
> 
> 
> 994 x 652 x 605 mm (39 1/8 x 25 5/8 x 23 7/8 in)



Thanks for taking the time to look that up and make the post. However, all the various web sites I'm looking at show those measurements to be the size of the cabinet, not the viewing dimensions of the tube itself.


----------



## Hammerli




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Silly request:
> 
> 
> I can find the physical dimensions of the entire XBR960 set on the web, but would someone please confirm the vertical height and width of the visible picture tube area in inches: X inches tall by Y inches wide.



You've swapped the norm for the X and Y axis so using standard practice along the X axis (horizontal) is 29 1/2" and along the Y axis (vertical) is 16 3/4".


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I want to get 100 hours on this TV fairly quick so I can get ready for an ISF job.



If you do get an ISF tuneup, I'd be very interested to hear just what was done. What equipment did he arrive with to adjust each separate input? Did he charge separately for each input, or for the whole job?


How "bad" is your out-of-the-box set currently? What specific gripes do you have right now, that you'd like the ISF tech to fix... and did they all get addressed? Did you have a Sony tech come to your house first (under warranty) to address anything? Will you have a Sony tech come out now, after the ISF tech, to "finish" the job if the ISF guy said that was necessary?


I assume you will write down all of your current service menu settings before any adjustments (either yours or those of the ISF tech). Then I'd like to know what specific service menu settings were changed, and of course from what value and to what value. I realize that any adjustments for your set would likely not apply to mine and I'm definitely not trying to take advantage of your ISF work, but I'm curious to know how many and which service menu items the ISF tech dealt with? What sections of the service menu did he deal with, not necessarily what were the actual numeric changes for your specific set?


Finally, did the ISF tech bring any magnets for vertical convergence/geometry adjustments? In other words, did he perform any physical/mechanical adjustments to your CRT set, or were all of the adjustments done using service menu tweaks only?


Can you tell the difference, now that the ISF job is complete? Are you happy? Were the changes substantial or subtle and refined? Are there improvements on all of your inputs, both SD and HD? Did you then do even more service menu tweaks yourself, or did you leave it alone and will you "live with it"? Is the picture now "gorgeous", or still a bit flawed, etc.? Anything unfinished?


I don't remember reading about anybody else getting an ISF adjustment on this set and your experiences and thoughts would be quite interesting. Do you feel you got your money's worth?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you do get an ISF tuneup, I'd be very interested to hear just what was done. What equipment did he arrive with to adjust each separate input? Did he charge separately for each input, or for the whole job?



I'll take notes .











> Quote:
> How "bad" is your out-of-the-box set currently?



Not bad AT ALL!



> Quote:
> What specific gripes do you have right now, that you'd like the ISF tech to fix... and did they all get addressed?



Mostly picky stuff, if you want me to be brutally honest. I'm kind of a skeptic about "how much better" my PQ can really get, but there's some refinements, namely geometry and convergeance, that I think I'm going to have to have addressed.



> Quote:
> Did you have a Sony tech come to your house first (under warranty) to address anything?



I need to try this again. The first time I called them, some dorky clerk took me, read off a script that my vertical convergeance issue was perfectly normal. I couldn't break through the glass wall to save my life, so I honestly don't know if I can even GET a Sony tech here or not.


I know that I have no Sony techs anywhere near my location.



> Quote:
> Will you have a Sony tech come out now, after the ISF tech, to "finish" the job if the ISF guy said that was necessary?



Ideally, I'd like the Sony tech come out FIRST.



> Quote:
> I assume you will write down all of your current service menu settings before any adjustments (either yours or those of the ISF tech).



SURE!



> Quote:
> Then I'd like to know what specific service menu settings were changed, and of course from what value and to what value. I realize that any adjustments for your set would likely not apply to mine and I'm definitely not trying to take advantage of your ISF work, but I'm curious to know how many and which service menu items the ISF tech dealt with? What sections of the service menu did he deal with, not necessarily what were the actual numeric changes for your specific set?



When/if the times comes, I'll do my best!



> Quote:
> Finally, did the ISF tech bring any magnets for vertical convergence/geometry adjustments?



Some ISF techs feel comfortable doing this kind of work, others do not. The one that I approached was honest with me about it and told me that he'd feel better about it if I went to a Sony tech for magnet work and such, if needed.


You can see what kind of circle this is starting to put me in, right?











> Quote:
> In other words, did he perform any physical/mechanical adjustments to your CRT set, or were all of the adjustments done using service menu tweaks only?



We'll see...



> Quote:
> Can you tell the difference, now that the ISF job is complete? Are you happy? Did you then do even more service menu tweaks yourself, or did you leave it alone? Is the picture now "gorgeous", or still a bit flawed, etc.?



I'll let you know after it's been done.


At present, out of the box, I'd have a hard time imagining how much better my PQ could really get. I can't seem to get the white and black levels perfectly to my liking, even using AVIA.


To my eyes, the contrast test in particular, and even on THX Optimizers...it's hard to really get that right mark.



> Quote:
> I don't remember reading about anybody else getting an ISF adjustment on this set and your experiences and thoughts would be quite interesting. Do you feel you got your money's worth?



Some folks over at Home Theater Forum have done it and they say they're amazed.


----------



## CrocHunter

Good Luck Q of B










Tell us how you make out!


----------



## liquidneba

Well I had the certified Sony Tech come out. He changed the YB board (or is it BY). We tried the same material off of the DVD and no luck. Same trail effect. He was telling me that he thought it improved slightly. I told him, maybe to you, but then again he also pre-filled his writeup form that I was satisified. He had to scribble it out, after he tried for nearly an entire hour to convince me otherwise. I just signed for him installing a new board. He told me that he could the phosphor "drag" or "lag" but he said it was sooo slight, that I should just accept it and that it was inherent to the technology.


He said that going from black to white to black again, that the transfer rate would produce these slow decaying phosphors. I told him, that I talk with a bunch of other owners of the same TV that say they haven't seen the problem. (Btw. to test if you can see this phosphor drag, check out Star Wars: A New Hope, right after the text crawl (1st chapter) the camera pans down and a planet moon goes from the bottom of the screen to the top. Look for a "faint comet trail". I'm going to go to Circuit City to test it. If anyone has this DVD (first in the orginal trilogy), can they test to see if they can see it?


Btw. the tech put the TV into Vivid mode to see if it would mask the trail. I'm like I don't keep it in that crappy mode. Nonetheless you could still see faint trail.


A bit of frustration but, we shall see, what we shall see! ;-) Time to call Sony again...


----------



## Brad Smith

liquidneba:


I had the same board replaced in my TV with no fix to the trailing issue. I've been meaning to follow up with them (will do so tomorrow). I'll report back if I learn anything more.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *liquidneba* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well I had the certified Sony Tech come out. He changed the YB board (or is it BY). We tried the same material off of the DVD and no luck. Same trail effect. He was telling me that he thought it improved slightly. I told him, maybe to you, but then again he also pre-filled his writeup form that I was satisified. He had to scribble it out, after he tried for nearly an entire hour to convince me otherwise. I just signed for him installing a new board. He told me that he could the phosphor "drag" or "lag" but he said it was sooo slight, that I should just accept it and that it was inherent to the technology.
> 
> 
> He said that going from black to white to black again, that the transfer rate would produce these slow decaying phosphors. I told him, that I talk with a bunch of other owners of the same TV that say they haven't seen the problem. (Btw. to test if you can see this phosphor drag, check out Star Wars: A New Hope, right after the text crawl (1st chapter) the camera pans down and a planet moon goes from the bottom of the screen to the top. Look for a "faint comet trail". I'm going to go to Circuit City to test it. If anyone has this DVD (first in the orginal trilogy), can they test to see if they can see it?
> 
> 
> Btw. the tech put the TV into Vivid mode to see if it would mask the trail. I'm like I don't keep it in that crappy mode. Nonetheless you could still see faint trail.
> 
> 
> A bit of frustration but, we shall see, what we shall see! ;-) Time to call Sony again...



Probably doesn't matter, but do be mindful of this: That Star Wars Episode IV DVD has some very known, and unforgiveable, glitches with certain special effects and what not.


MAYBE that's what you're seeing there? *knocks on wood* I'll test my DVD and see what I see.


Putting the TV in Vivid, I would think, would be the LAST thing you'd want to do for a problem like that! Throw that pup into Pro and Monitor and make sure your brightness and contrast are well below 50. 50 is your ABSOLUTE ceiling value for contrast or brightness!


Make sure you color is dead center on 31, sharpness around 20-ish, and hue at dead center, and see if that helps out all.


Keep VM on low.


----------



## liquidneba

Q,


I've seen it as well with Episode 5 The Empire Strikes Back (check chapter 30, when the Falcon flies around the screen to attack the star destroyer) on my TV there's a trail right after the ship. I've gotten Brightness at 44 for me, sharpness at 15, color 31, hue 31, picture 35 (pro mode) and monitor Vm low.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *liquidneba* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Q,
> 
> 
> I've seen it as well with Episode 5 The Empire Strikes Back (check chapter 30, when the Falcon flies around the screen to attack the star destroyer) on my TV there's a trail right after the ship. I've gotten Brightness at 44 for me, sharpness at 15, color 31, hue 31, picture 35 (pro mode) and monitor Vm low.



Ok. Your settings aren't all that different from mine. I'll check these two scenes out mentioned in the past few posts and see what I see...


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hammerli* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You've swapped the norm for the X and Y axis so using standard practice along the X axis (horizontal) is 29 1/2" and along the Y axis (vertical) is 16 3/4".



Thanks for the info and the reminder!


----------



## billmail1

I was doing some "tweaking" in SM last night and now I have a problem. When I display the User Menu, select Pro mode and press the reset on the remote control, the Pro mode settings default to the Vivid mode settings. Even the small white circles on the slider bars that indicate where the factory settings are (Picture, Brightness, etc.) have moved to the same areas on the slider bars as the Vivid settings. I've unplugged the set and pressed the "Reset" button on the remote for each mode. All other modes are OK - just Pro mode now resets to Vivid mode settings.


Does anyone know what I might have done wrong and how to correct this??


----------



## Q of BanditZ

AMAZING!


I have to share this good story with you all.


I had purchased my XBR960 from Crutchfield at the end fo May. Keep that date in mind.


The Sony price drop happened on July 1.


When that did, I contacted them right away with the links to SonyStyle proving the price drop and asked "Would it be possible for a price matching refund since I boght this TV from you all just about 30 days ago?".


Since this was over the July 4 weekend, nothing could really be done and they apologized that they could take no action until "we see the price drop officially confirmed here."


That happened right after the holiday. Crutchfield officially adjusted their prices to match the Sony price drops.


To make a long story short, they went back to my prior correspondence, saw that I had made my request right on the cusp of my 30 day time window...and they're refunding me the $300 difference!


Keep in mind that I never had to beg, rant, and twist a lot of arms to get this done. We're talking about maybe two casual emails, in passing, on the subject. Email and phone correspondence since day one couldn't have been better! These people are great!


WOW! AWESOME Cruthchfield! AWESOME!


----------



## rekalil

About 8-9 months ago this thread saw many posts from owners of XBR960s about the failure of their sets to turn, even after following Sony's resetting procedure. As a result, the failed sets needed to be serviced. These reports caused some concern, but I did buy a XBR960 last November, and, although I use only twice a week, it always has turned on normally. At about the same time that I purchased my TV, a friend obtained Sony's 30" widescreen HDTV, KD-30SX955. About two weeks after purchasing the TV, it required resetting. Last week, it failed once again to turn on and resetting the TV did not help. Instead, upon powering the TV on, it emitted a series of clicks, then a snapping sound and shut itself off. The TV will now require service and unfortunately it is no longer under warranty.

I am writing to inquire of those who experienced a similar problem with their XBR960s what was determined to be the cause of the problem and what did the service technician do to fix it? Moreover has the set operated normally since being repaired? Any information that can be provided will be of great help to my friend, and also to me should my set fail to turn on in the future.

Thanks very much.

Ron


----------



## txtravlr384

Yesterday I accidentally gouged a nice scratch in the anti-reflective coating on the front of my XBR960. The scratch was horrendously noticeable right in the middle of the screen. So today I tried to buff it out and buffed off the anti-reflective coating in the area of the scratch which created a nuisance of its own that was just as bad as the original scratch. I did notice that the picture coming through the area I buffed was much brighter than the surrounding normal areas. So I buffed off all the anti-reflective coating over the entire screen. End result: Much brighter picture, better contrast, better color, and no more red push! I wish I had done this earlier. I don't have the anti-reflection anymore, but I don't need it because my room is dark enough anyway. Just thought I'd share this info.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *txtravlr384* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yesterday I accidentally gouged a nice scratch in the anti-reflective coating on the front of my XBR960. The scratch was horrendously noticeable right in the middle of the screen. So today I tried to buff it out and buffed off the anti-reflective coating in the area of the scratch which created a nuisance of its own that was just as bad as the original scratch. I did notice that the picture coming through the area I buffed was much brighter than the surrounding normal areas. So I buffed off all the anti-reflective coating over the entire screen. End result: Much brighter picture, better contrast, better color, and no more red push! I wish I had done this earlier. I don't have the anti-reflection anymore, but I don't need it because my room is dark enough anyway. Just thought I'd share this info.



A happy accident, at best. I would NOT recommend that ANYONE deliberately destroys the anti-glare coating, which I thnk is a God send myself.


You know how you get rid of red push? Simply calibrate out of Pro and Monitor and LEAVE IT THERE. Keep Hue at dead center zero and keep your color at 31.


----------



## matrixrok10




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rekalil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> About 8-9 months ago this thread saw many posts from owners of XBR960s about the failure of their sets to turn, even after following Sony's resetting procedure. As a result, the failed sets needed to be serviced. These reports caused some concern, but I did buy a XBR960 last November, and, although I use only twice a week, it always has turned on normally. At about the same time that I purchased my TV, a friend obtained Sony's 30" widescreen HDTV, KD-30SX955. About two weeks after purchasing the TV, it required resetting. Last week, it failed once again to turn on and resetting the TV did not help. Instead, upon powering the TV on, it emitted a series of clicks, then a snapping sound and shut itself off. The TV will now require service and unfortunately it is no longer under warranty.
> 
> I am writing to inquire of those who experienced a similar problem with their XBR960s what was determined to be the cause of the problem and what did the service technician do to fix it? Moreover has the set operated normally since being repaired? Any information that can be provided will be of great help to my friend, and also to me should my set fail to turn on in the future.
> 
> Thanks very much.
> 
> Ron



I would like to know about this problem as well. Just bought the KD-30SX955 last week. Curious how much it will cost to fix this problem and if it's worth getting the extended warranty.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *matrixrok10* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would like to know about this problem as well. Just bought the KD-30SX955 last week. Curious how much it will cost to fix this problem and if it's worth getting the extended warranty.



See how much of a percentage the extra warranty is, but I almost always say "yes", go for the best extended warranty you can get.


----------



## matrixrok10

Do you recommend any companies that have good extended warranty service outside Best Buy?


----------



## Artwood

Has anyone out there ever wondered if this thread really is official?


----------



## Yung




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> AMAZING!
> 
> 
> I have to share this good story with you all.
> 
> 
> I had purchased my XBR960 from Crutchfield at the end fo May. Keep that date in mind.
> 
> 
> The Sony price drop happened on July 1.
> 
> 
> When that did, I contacted them right away with the links to SonyStyle proving the price drop and asked "Would it be possible for a price matching refund since I boght this TV from you all just about 30 days ago?".
> 
> 
> Since this was over the July 4 weekend, nothing could really be done and they apologized that they could take no action until "we see the price drop officially confirmed here."
> 
> 
> That happened right after the holiday. Crutchfield officially adjusted their prices to match the Sony price drops.
> 
> 
> To make a long story short, they went back to my prior correspondence, saw that I had made my request right on the cusp of my 30 day time window...and they're refunding me the $300 difference!
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that I never had to beg, rant, and twist a lot of arms to get this done. We're talking about maybe two casual emails, in passing, on the subject. Email and phone correspondence since day one couldn't have been better! These people are great!
> 
> 
> WOW! AWESOME Cruthchfield! AWESOME!




Sweet deal and shipped free too! I got my xbr960 from CC in Oct 2004 for the same price as it is now, although I had to pay taxes, but I also got a free basic Sony HTIB along with it as well.


----------



## tennberg

Has anyone had a Sony tech or someone else who was certified attempt to repair the horizontal bowing on your set by opening it up and messing around with the magnets? Once I get a picture of it, I'd love to post it to see if the bowing I get is minor or major compared to others. It seems that adding magnets is an inexact science and that you could adjust magnets all day and never get it perfect.


Is there any service menu settings that can attempt to minimize bowing or is the service menu only for vertical bowing?


----------



## JohnGZ28

Does anyone have any recommendations on cleaning this dust magnet screen on the 960? Right now I wipe it off with a CD cleaning cloth but it's getting pretty dirty.


On another note I had mine ISF calibrated last night. Very happy with the results. I'll post more later.


----------



## billmail1

John,


Glad to hear that you are happy with the ISF calibration. Could you provide me with contact information for your calibrator? If you can't post it in this thread, please PM me ([email protected]).


Thanks!!


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anyone had a Sony tech or someone else who was certified attempt to repair the horizontal bowing on your set by opening it up and messing around with the magnets? Once I get a picture of it, I'd love to post it to see if the bowing I get is minor or major compared to others. It seems that adding magnets is an inexact science and that you could adjust magnets all day and never get it perfect.
> 
> 
> Is there any service menu settings that can attempt to minimize bowing or is the service menu only for vertical bowing?



I am getting my set ISF calibrated next Wednesday. For $300, he's going to do it all INCLUDING handle any gemetry and convergeance issues. I'll let you know what the heck happens here and try and take notes without being a pain in the arse to him.


----------



## KBI

does the 30inch XBR955 have the same horizontal resolution 1,400 as the 34inch XBR955 & 34inch XBR960..


----------



## ANGEL 35




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am getting my set ISF calibrated next Wednesday. For $300, he's going to do it all INCLUDING handle any gemetry and convergeance issues. I'll let you know what the heck happens here and try and take notes without being a pain in the arse to him.


Where do you live. You are getting a great price


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ANGEL 35* /forum/post/0
> 
> Where do you live. You are getting a great price



Western Ohio.


----------



## RJRSW

If anyone is interested CC has this set available on sale for under eighteen hundred dollars this week.


----------



## benalpers

Just got my Kd-34xbr960 from Abt Electronics. So far, I love it.

I have, however, a potentially stupid question. I tend to keep the boxes that my electronic components come in as a matter of course. However, the box that the Kd-34xbr960 ships in is, as many of you know, HUGE. And though the TV arrived in perfect shape, the bottom of the box showed significant wear and tear. I'm not sure it could endure another journey.


So I'm thinking of throwing out the box.


Or would that be a completely stupid thing to do?


----------



## POWERFUL

No, Warranty on this TV is in-home so you shouldn't need the box.


----------



## gigaguy

Only if you ever plan to move or sell the tv the box can be very helpful to have.

I saved mine.


----------



## VinnieR

Thought I'd share my saga with my 960. I picked up my set in mid-February, took it home, hooked it up, turned it on and was floored by what I saw. There wasn't a straight picture edge anywhere on the screen. Vertical edges on 4x3 pictures had a 2 inch hook to the outside at the top on both sides. Horizontal lines on letterboxed material (such as 2.35 AR movies) were bowed down on top and up at the bottom. It was simply unacceptable.


Because I got it through the military exchange special order, there was no dealer to work with. I had to use Sony's service system. For the most part they were friendly and helpful and seemed anxious to make me happy. Trouble is that there didn't seem to be anyone on the face of the planet who could fix it. Initially, the first repairman who came to the house didn't have the service manual and basically threw up his hands. Two weeks later he returned with the manual, fussed with the settings for over two hours and accomplished nothing.


Sony next sent out a second serviceman, one that was supposed to be their "superstar". He decided to pick up the unit and take it back to his shop forty miles away. He kept it 4 weeks and called me to come look at the great improvement he had made. When I saw it it was exactly the same. I even asked the guy if he was freakin blind. He happened to have the same set in his showroom and I pointed out that his set had the same problem. He was distressed to see that. I refused to accept the set. For the next 5 weeks he worked with Sony tech support multiple times and finally called me to tell me he had cured the problem and they were returning it. If you guessed that it wasn't fixed, you got it right. If anything, it was worse.


Back on the phone to Sony. They offered to exchange the set. They asked me to go look at sets all over town to see if any of them would be acceptable to me. I must have looked at 23 different sets and none of them were what I'd judge much better than mine. All had significant, disturbing geometric distortion. But, despite this, I told Sony to exchange my set.


Glad I did. The new unit was almost perfect in geometry. All horizontal lines are razor sharp and straight. There is a very slight tilt to vertical lines which nearly completely disappears as the set warms up. Overall, the performance of this set is night and day better than my first unit.


My original unit was built in Dec 04; the new one Jun 05. The menus and other on-screen displays are slightly different from the first to the last. This leads me to believe that Sony revised the programming recently in response to numerous complaints. My guess is that there was nothing servicemen could do with the original programming.


Although it took about 5 months to get the problem resolved, I am at last a happy customer. As all of you know, there isn't a better high-def picture available anywhere. (Easily beats my 110 inch front projector and any plasma available!) One last thing: Sony restarted my 2-year warranty with the delivery of the replacement set.


Moral: if you're having problems with your 960, keep working with Sony support until you get it resolved. You will eventually prevail.


----------



## billmail1

Vinnie,


I'm very sorry to hear about your problems with the 960. Did you try to return or exchange the TV at your Base Exchange or through the AFFES mail order service? I'm retired military and currently work on a military installation. In my experience, AAFES has always been very cooperative about accepting returns, even Special Orders. Even if they do not have a replacement in stock, they will attempt to locate one for you or return your money. Was there an AFFES near your location? Your post sounds like there wasn't any in your area. You definitely went through a lot of trouble and headaches to find a 960 that was acceptable to you and, fortunately, Sony was very cooperative. Glad everything worked out!!!


----------



## mr2828

Vinnie, can you describe in detail the differences in the menu systems between the two sets? I'm curious... if it's anything really worth getting I might try to make Sony upgrade the firmware on my (older) set.


----------



## Q of BanditZ

UPDATE: My ISF job happened yesterday. I know some people were asking me about it and how it went, etc. So, here ya go: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=561596 


Odd question: Does anyone happen to know what the maximum possible refresh rate is for this TV? I know 60hz is common. Can it go past that?


----------



## VinnieR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *billmail1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Vinnie,
> 
> 
> I'm very sorry to hear about your problems with the 960. Did you try to return or exchange the TV at your Base Exchange or through the AFFES mail order service? I'm retired military and currently work on a military installation. In my experience, AAFES has always been very cooperative about accepting returns, even Special Orders. Even if they do not have a replacement in stock, they will attempt to locate one for you or return your money. Was there an AFFES near your location? Your post sounds like there wasn't any in your area. You definitely went through a lot of trouble and headaches to find a 960 that was acceptable to you and, fortunately, Sony was very cooperative. Glad everything worked out!!!




The TV was special ordered thru the AAFES website, not thru the local exchange. The local exchange didn't list the 960 as an item they could order. Only was available on line. AAFES made it clear to me that there would be no return.


This whole episode was rather bizarre in other ways as well. First, AAFES insisted that the unit had to be delivered to a local exchange, not to my house for some reason. That's why I had to actually pickup the heavy turkey myself. What's was even more irritating is that even though I alerted the local PX (on the National Guard installation in Austin) that the set was coming and even though I checked with them about once a week after waiting a month, the local exchange denied ever getting the unit. Finally I talked to the guy who works the forklift in the warehouse and he said the TV had been gathering dust for over two months and they were wondering who it was for.


As you said, at least it worked out in the end.


----------



## VinnieR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr2828* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Vinnie, can you describe in detail the differences in the menu systems between the two sets? I'm curious... if it's anything really worth getting I might try to make Sony upgrade the firmware on my (older) set.




Here's two things that I know of (or think I do). First, the first unit had a full rectagular box around the words "Video 5" (for example) in the upper left corner of the picture. The new set has a line only on the bottom and right side, not on the top and left side. Obviously, this is not important, but it was my first indication that something had changed.


Second, my first unit had only a tilt adjustment in setup. The new unit has both tilt and vertical position adjustments. This has allowed me to raise the picture enough to fully see the score crawl on ESPN-HD at the bottom of the screen (for example). The first set cut off the bottom third of the crawl and there was no way to adjust it. Good ole Sony and its notorious excessive overscan!


There may be other changes as well. I haven't had the set long enough to discover everything. The biggest change, which has to be firmware, is that the picture has razor straight horizontal lines. No amount of effort by the service folks was able to adjust the first unit to achieve this.


I read of this problem on the forum back in February when I first got the set home. I see a few pages back that some folks still have questions about the "bowing" of horizontal lines and are talking about moving magnets and the like. My advice is to keep screaming at Sony (or your dealer) until you get a unit that is right. They do exist.


----------



## bbbobbb

Vinnie,

If I understand you correctly the box around video inputs used to be a full rectangle....and now you have the bottom and right side? This is more likely to mean that you have an alignment issue rather than a software change. I too was able to make the top and the left go away when I overdid the VPOS setting.... My mid-Feb XBR960 has the option to adjust the vertical...I am guessing if you were to put the vertical so that you have the half crawl you will get the full video rectangle box again. Overscan!

BB


----------



## VinnieR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bbbobbb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Vinnie,
> 
> If I understand you correctly the box around video inputs used to be a full rectangle....and now you have the bottom and right side? This is more likely to mean that you have an alignment issue rather than a software change. I too was able to make the top and the left go away when I overdid the VPOS setting.... My mid-Feb XBR960 has the option to adjust the vertical...I am guessing if you were to put the vertical so that you have the half crawl you will get the full video rectangle box again. Overscan!
> 
> BB



You understand what I was describing. However, moving the VPOS control all the way so that the ESPN crawl practically disappears doesn't change the box (or lack of box, actually) around the input indicator. There has definitely been a change to the graphics. As I said, the lack of a full rectangle around the input indicator is completely irrelevant. I only mention this as an indicator that something has changed.


Didn't say it before, but the overscan has been slightly improved. The local FOX HD channel thru Time Warner Cable displays their irritating, always on, logo what seems to be about 2 pixels from the right and bottom edge of the screen. My DLP front projector is just able to display the full logo with the "2 -pixel" border. My first 960 cut off about 1/3 of the logo and no amount of fiddling with it by the service guys could improve it. The new set shows the whole logo, but with no room to spare. Maybe Sony is getting the word on overscan.


The report of JohnGZ28 on his ISF experience was amazing. If I thought I could find as good a calibrator in Texas as his was, I'd hire him in a heartbeat. I have heard that not every ISF guy is as dedicated or skilled as the one that squared away his unit. Anyone used a Texas ISF guy with the kind of success that John had?


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *VinnieR* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The report of JohnGZ28 on his ISF experience was amazing. If I thought I could find as good a calibrator in Texas as his was, I'd hire him in a heartbeat. I have heard that not every ISF guy is as dedicated or skilled as the one that squared away his unit. Anyone used a Texas ISF guy with the kind of success that John had?



Q of BanditZ and I had great results from our calibrators. The guy who did mine is Chuck Williams. Unfortunately for me he is moving to the west coast in a couple of weeks.


I asked for recommendations in the Local HDTV forum as well as checking a few other sites and his name was the one that came up consistantly.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Q of BanditZ and I had great results from our calibrators. The guy who did mine is Chuck Williams. Unfortunately for me he is moving to the west coast in a couple of weeks.
> 
> 
> I asked for recommendations in the Local HDTV forum as well as checking a few other sites and his name was the one that came up consistantly.



Vinnie,


As I understand it, Chuck's company www.lionav.com can reach out to just about anywhere. You can't lose anything and you aren't stuck under a binding contract if you go to their website and fill out their form requesting an ISF calibration.


They have a man named Steve Martin located right in Dallas, TX. I'm sure anyone that's a part of this company, like Gregg Loewen, Chuck Williams, etc. is going to give you top of the line service all the way. These guys are considered amongst the best, as is my man Chad Billheimer, here in the Midwest. (Although Chad is not with Lion AV, but same caliber of service all the way! )


Other things that might help you:

http://www.imagingscience.com/isf-trained.cfm That's THE main ISF webpage and its search engine to find an ISF calibrator near you. This is how I discovered Chad Billheimer for my area.

http://www.milori.com/community/calibrator/ This was also where I found out about Chad B. and I was intruiged by what I read about on this site. These sites might help you out as well. (Or anyone else for that matter.)


Check 'em out!





I'm trying to look this up, but in the meantime, here's an interesting question:


Does this TV actually display the picture at a given and assigned refresh rate, or does it convert ANYTHING back to 60hz internally?


I was messing around with my PC today and connected it to the XBR960 via HDMI/DVI. I set the resolution at 1280 x 720 just to keep it well within bounds, at 60Hz. To my amazement, I saw that I was able to turn the refresh rate as high as 85Hz, and let me tell ya...THAT looked great! I really was blown away and tempted to fire up Half Life 2 in widescreen, but time was my enemy at that point.


What's the story on this, people?


----------



## JohnGZ28

Does anyone have a center channel speaker sitting on top of their 960? If so what are the dimensions of the speaker? I'm thinking about getting a P-digm 470 or 570 and I'm limited to placing any center channel I get on the top of the TV.


----------



## Brad Smith

liquidneba: Did you ever get anywhere with your trailing issue on your set? I've been busy with work, so haven't had the time to set up a service appointment. Will be doing that this week.


----------



## rjrustigian

Is there any way to adjust the convergence on the KD-34XBR960? Mine is out in the middle to lower left of the screen.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a center channel speaker sitting on top of their 960? If so what are the dimensions of the speaker? I'm thinking about getting a P-digm 470 or 570 and I'm limited to placing any center channel I get on the top of the TV.




I have a 35 lb. www.htd.com Level 4 center channel speaker sitting on top of my XBR960 right now. I notice that it will create a slight gouse field in the upper right corner of the TV sometimes...and then I can make it go away. The speaker is shielded.


Dimensions (HxWxD) 8 3/4" x 23 3/4" x 11 5/8"


I wouldn't want my speaker to be any bigger or heavier than that!


----------



## CrocHunter

Check my pics in the gallery to see how i have my center channel speaker.


It will give you an idea of making one of these shelves for you yourself.It looks better too rather than putting the speaker on top of the tv.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CrocHunter* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Check my pics in the gallery to see how i have my center channel speaker.
> 
> 
> It will give you an idea of making one of these shelves for you yourself.It looks better too rather than putting the speaker on top of the tv.



Two things:


1.) Your speaker is a tiny fraction of the size and weight mine is.










2.) I really don't want to put a shelf in the wall if I can help it.


I'm probably looking at some furniture after I get some new carpets in here come Fall. Long story short: I'm long overdue for a furniture upgrade for my TV and all of my gear.


I'll try and figure something out, as I'd like to not have this very slight gouse field in the upper right corner.


On 2:35:1 and up material and so on, it's a non-issue, but if it's full 16X9...I can notice it a little bit in bright or white scenes. Not the end of the world..


----------



## Dark Rain




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Two things:
> 
> 
> I'll try and figure something out, as I'd like to not have this very slight gouse field in the upper right corner.
> 
> 
> On 2:35:1 and up material and so on, it's a non-issue, but if it's full 16X9...I can notice it a little bit in bright or white scenes. Not the end of the world..



CC sells a center speaker shelf that mounts on the top of the TV. You could place your cable box or DVD player on there and then the center speaker on top of it to get it further away from the screen. These probably work better for DLPs but it's worth a shot.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dark Rain* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> CC sells a center speaker shelf that mounts on the top of the TV. You could place your cable box or DVD player on there and then the center speaker on top of it to get it further away from the screen. These probably work better for DLPs but it's worth a shot.



I've seen those. Too flimsy.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CrocHunter* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Check my pics in the gallery to see how i have my center channel speaker.
> 
> 
> It will give you an idea of making one of these shelves for you yourself.It looks better too rather than putting the speaker on top of the tv.



The P-Digm 470 is 9x23x12 and the 570 is 9x26x13 and 34lbs and 45lbs.


A shelf on the wall would put the speaker about 2' behind the screen. I looked at one of the shelves that sit on top of the tv but like Q says they are a bit flimsy.


----------



## tennberg

I'm not sure how much money you could spend on a stand, but I have this Bell'o stand:

http://www.homeaudiosuperstore.com/bello-avs-4201a.html 


The 960 has about an inch of clearance on either side if it sits about 1.5 inches from the front of the glass. The stand is more than strong enough to hold the TV. There is also ample room on the shelf below for a center channel speaker. I think this helps to keep the clean lines of the TV and puts your center channel in a proper place. I have a Mordaunt-Short MS Ci center channel speaker. I've had it for about 4 years, has never skipped a beat.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm not sure how much money you could spend on a stand, but I have this Bell'o stand:
> 
> http://www.homeaudiosuperstore.com/bello-avs-4201a.html
> 
> 
> The 960 has about an inch of clearance on either side if it sits about 1.5 inches from the front of the glass. The stand is more than strong enough to hold the TV. There is also ample room on the shelf below for a center channel speaker. I think this helps to keep the clean lines of the TV and puts your center channel in a proper place. I have a Mordaunt-Short MS Ci center channel speaker. I've had it for about 4 years, has never skipped a beat.



Not bad! Definitely bookmarking that!


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm not sure how much money you could spend on a stand, but I have this Bell'o stand:
> 
> http://www.homeaudiosuperstore.com/bello-avs-4201a.html
> 
> 
> The 960 has about an inch of clearance on either side if it sits about 1.5 inches from the front of the glass. The stand is more than strong enough to hold the TV. There is also ample room on the shelf below for a center channel speaker. I think this helps to keep the clean lines of the TV and puts your center channel in a proper place. I have a Mordaunt-Short MS Ci center channel speaker. I've had it for about 4 years, has never skipped a beat.



Nice stand but, I already have one of these:

http://www.homeaudiosuperstore.com/product78.html 


and I can't fit a center channel and my equipment on it.


----------



## tennberg

Given the 960's status as one of the best sets out there for HDTV viewing, I am wondering what current 960 owners are going to do 3-5 years down the road. I do believe that the 960 is an amazing set with very few drawbacks, the top two being weight and horizontal geometry. I shopped around looking at tons of sets before picking the 960. I found LCDs too prone to "ghosting" and pixel loss, plasmas unable to display deep blacks and prone to poor viewing angles, rear projections having simply poor pictures, and DLPs being okay but still not near the clarity of CRT.


I'm wondering if there's any upcoming (or current) technology that can rival (or exceed) the clarity and depth of CRT while being light/easy-to-move and with perfect geometry. I know that some companies will soon be making "thin CRTs", with 30-40% less depth, though I am unsure if this would affect quality.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Given the 960's status as one of the best sets out there for HDTV viewing, I am wondering what current 960 owners are going to do 3-5 years down the road. I do believe that the 960 is an amazing set with very few drawbacks, the top two being weight and horizontal geometry. I shopped around looking at tons of sets before picking the 960. I found LCDs too prone to "ghosting" and pixel loss, plasmas unable to display deep blacks and prone to poor viewing angles, rear projections having simply poor pictures, and DLPs being okay but still not near the clarity of CRT.
> 
> 
> I'm wondering if there's any upcoming (or current) technology that can rival (or exceed) the clarity and depth of CRT while being light/easy-to-move and with perfect geometry. I know that some companies will soon be making "thin CRTs", with 30-40% less depth, though I am unsure if this would affect quality.



I'm keeping it until it literally dies in my face, like the last Sony Trinitron I owned from 1982. Why? Because I agree with everything you just wrote here, and then some.


I wouldn't think that "thin CRT's" should mean a loss in quality. You'd like to think we've made advancements in 20 years, right?










I don't see a technology surfacing and PERFECTING itself in 3-5 years that I expect to equal or BEAT CRT tubes across the boards.


I'd say this: Keep an eye on SED and OLED. Those are my two wild cards in my back pocket.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Given the 960's status as one of the best sets out there for HDTV viewing, I am wondering what current 960 owners are going to do 3-5 years down the road. I do believe that the 960 is an amazing set with very few drawbacks, the top two being weight and horizontal geometry. I shopped around looking at tons of sets before picking the 960. I found LCDs too prone to "ghosting" and pixel loss, plasmas unable to display deep blacks and prone to poor viewing angles, rear projections having simply poor pictures, and DLPs being okay but still not near the clarity of CRT.
> 
> 
> I'm wondering if there's any upcoming (or current) technology that can rival (or exceed) the clarity and depth of CRT while being light/easy-to-move and with perfect geometry. I know that some companies will soon be making "thin CRTs", with 30-40% less depth, though I am unsure if this would affect quality.



My 960 replaced a 27"XBR purchased in Dec. 1989. The 27" has been turned over to my daughters now. Hopefully the 960 will last just as long and it will be moved into one of my daughter's rooms and be replaced with what ever the latest technology has to offer.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Given the 960's status as one of the best sets out there for HDTV viewing, I am wondering what current 960 owners are going to do 3-5 years down the road. I do believe that the 960 is an amazing set with very few drawbacks, the top two being weight and horizontal geometry. I shopped around looking at tons of sets before picking the 960. I found LCDs too prone to "ghosting" and pixel loss, plasmas unable to display deep blacks and prone to poor viewing angles, rear projections having simply poor pictures, and DLPs being okay but still not near the clarity of CRT.
> 
> 
> I'm wondering if there's any upcoming (or current) technology that can rival (or exceed) the clarity and depth of CRT while being light/easy-to-move and with perfect geometry. I know that some companies will soon be making "thin CRTs", with 30-40% less depth, though I am unsure if this would affect quality.



Alas, I, too, bought an XBR set in the early '90's that is now in my daughter's room. I bought my first Trinitron in 1973. But I think I will be replacing my '960 well before the 10 or 15-year mark. What with? Probably not a CRT. It seems everything is getting better, so I think the difference in picture quality between CRT's and other technologies will decrease. My bet is I'll wind up with an LCD. But one thing's for sure--I want something bigger than 34". I need 42" or larger. So, while I love the '960, the CRT is too small and also too heavy.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BTV Mark* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So, while I love the '960, the CRT is too small and also too heavy.



This is a common complaint, the TV being to heavy. Just curious as to how often people move their TV around? Mine is pretty much fixed in it's location other than when the carpet is professionally cleaned.


With surround sound set ups and theater seating that a lot of people have I can't see rearranging the furniture every few months like when you just had the TV and sofa to move.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is a common complaint, the TV being to heavy. Just curious as to how often people move their TV around? Mine is pretty much fixed in it's location other than when the carpet is professionally cleaned.
> 
> 
> With surround sound set ups and theater seating that a lot of people have I can't see rearranging the furniture every few months like when you just had the TV and sofa to move.



You don't. It's a lame excuse.


"Too small" is a complaint I understand...although I contend most people can easily adjust their viewing distance. Unless you're going for outright home movie theater experience, of course.


Short of that, I'd rather just move my seat up a few feet instead spending thousands of dollars on an inferior technology just so I can sit 12+ feet away from it.


The heavy thing never floats with me at all. It's reek of lameness.


Once the TV is set in you room...why in the world would you ever need to move it, and if you did...wouldn't that involve moving men or friends to help you out? Sorry, that's always been a super lame excuse in my book. Doesn't float.


DLP's and LCD's "only" weigh 100 or so pounds in comparision at minimum, if you go for something 42 inches or bigger.


----------



## tivotony

Can anyone offer me a word of advice? I'm just about to pull the trigger on the 960, to replace my 36XBR400 (HD but not widescreen). I got burned when I bought the 400 because Sony followed it up rather quickly with a newer model (the 600, I believe). My question is: is the 960 going to be around for awhile, or is a newer tube model on the near horizon? I noticed that my local Circuit City has the set for $1899, down from $2199. I love the picture the tube offers, and I want to make use of HDMI, which my 400 doesn't have. I'm ready...just a little gunshy. Can anyone offer a suggestion on this?


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tivotony* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can anyone offer me a word of advice? I'm just about to pull the trigger on the 960, to replace my 36XBR400 (HD but not widescreen). I got burned when I bought the 400 because Sony followed it up rather quickly with a newer model (the 600, I believe). My question is: is the 960 going to be around for awhile, or is a newer tube model on the near horizon? I noticed that my local Circuit City has the set for $1899, down from $2199. I love the picture the tube offers, and I want to make use of HDMI, which my 400 doesn't have. I'm ready...just a little gunshy. Can anyone offer a suggestion on this?



tivo:


As far as I am aware, there is no successor to the 960 on the near horizon. The 960 was the successor to the 910, improving the Super Fine Pitch technology among other things. Since I haven't seen a 16:9 widescreen CRT larger than 34", the only improvement in a successor to the 960 I could see is adding more HDMI/DVI inputs or improving the built-in speakers (though most 960 users probably use a 5.1 HT setup).


I think the price drop is simply due to the 960 being in ample supply and Sony being able to cut down costs due to higher production. I believe if you bought the 960 now, you would be happy with it for several years, if not longer. There is no viable technology on the near horizon that can surpass CRT, so an investment in this set would pay off in years of enjoyment.


----------



## Dark Rain

tivotony, I believe the 960 will be around for another year or so. It will probably be the last of the CRTs Sony makes, which is a REAL SHAME. I'm getting one myself since I'm not sold on any of the other technologies yet. And right now the price on it is great.


----------



## tivotony

Thanks so much.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tivotony* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I love the picture the tube offers, and I want to make use of HDMI, which my 400 doesn't have.



I think you'll find the difference between using HDMI (from what source?) and component video to be essentially, if not absolute, zero with this set.


I've tried connecting my DCT6412 to my XBR960 via DVI-to-HDMI, and also my JVC DT100U to my XBR960 via HDMI-to-HDMI, and I feel there is flat zero difference in either of these and component video from the same devices to the XBR960. Even using the firewire path from these same devices to the XBR960 produces zero difference in observable picture quality.


Don't get me wrong, I think the picture from the XBR960 is the absolute best there is. But I don't think its HDMI input for use from "ordinary" sources is the source of that magic, and really shouldn't be the sole justification for buying it.


Now having an HDMI input available for upcoming HD-DVD or BluRay... well that will be much appreciated.


----------



## Q of BanditZ

The HDMI over component offers what I classify as a "refinement", but not a night and day, earth shattering picture quality difference by any means.


It also just has all around better circuitry and features vs. the older XBR 400 and 800. Like was said before: If you're buying this set, you're making an investment towards many years of enjoyment.


----------



## RJRSW

I have both the component and firewire hooked to my 960 from the Comcast Motorola dual tuner PVR and when I switch between the two inputs there is I would estimate about a 5% better quality picture on the firewire input. I also can do the same with my JVC 5U D-VHS connected to the firewire on the cable box and the TV via HDMI and when I switch from the HDMI to the cable box component I see a similar difference. Not great but it can be seen.


----------



## tivotony

HDMI was one of the considerations, but I was equally interested (if not more so) in having a widescreen picture. My 36XBR is 4:3. I think I lose a lot of my available picture size with letterboxed content. I appreciate the comments, however. I love this stuff, but I'm pretty much a novice.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tivotony* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> HDMI was one of the considerations, but I was equally interested (if not more so) in having a widescreen picture. My 36XBR is 4:3. I think I lose a lot of my available picture size with letterboxed content. I appreciate the comments, however. I love this stuff, but I'm pretty much a novice.



The 36XBr400 is my dad's tv down in the basement. That's hardly a piece of junk you've got there! You have a first generation (or close to it) HD Monitor and one of the better ones.


But, the XBr960 is...2-3 (?) generations worth of advancements in all aspects including, of course, the widescreen and HDMI.


If you make a move on the 960, I know you won't be disappointed. I would hope you could find some other use for that XBR400 or maybe even sell it and put that money towards the purchase of the 960. The 960 IS a signifigant upgrade from the XBR400.


Good luck!


----------



## Artwood

Q of BanditZ: I just want to congragulate you on shutting down that other thread--that was a hoot!


----------



## hoshu35

hey, im practically sold on this Tv, as anyone here says that its better than Lcd's, I was considering the new 32" panasonic LCD, but now im leaning more towards the XBR960, I just have one Question, I canot order online, because im overseas, but I plan on going to L.A. for some business next week and will also be picking up my XBR960, where can I get the best price for this set in L.A.?? I have searched TVAuthority's website but they dont sell it, and the cheapest that I have found it for is $1899 at bestbuy or CC, the thing is that I have seen it on oonline stores for as little as $1395....... any advice would be greatly apreciated.....


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoshu35* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> hey, im practically sold on this Tv, as anyone here says that its better than Lcd's, I was considering the new 32" panasonic LCD, but now im leaning more towards the XBR960, I just have one Question, I canot order online, because im overseas, but I plan on going to L.A. for some business next week and will also be picking up my XBR960, where can I get the best price for this set in L.A.?? I have searched TVAuthority's website but they dont sell it, and the cheapest that I have found it for is $1899 at bestbuy or CC, the thing is that I have seen it on oonline stores for as little as $1395....... any advice would be greatly apreciated.....



Go to CC or BB to get it. I have had 0 problems with my set, but if you should a problem with yours CC or BB will probably be the easiest to deal with.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Artwood* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Q of BanditZ: I just want to congragulate you on shutting down that other thread--that was a hoot!



I think I lost several IQ points during that experience. I'm glad Alan took care of it. I hope a ban was involved as well.


----------



## Brad Smith

More on the trailing issue...


I called the local authorized Sony repair center on Monday morning, and they said a technician would call me back. It is now Thursday and I've been informed they've been "working with Sony on the issue". Not sure what that exactly means for me, but at least they seem to acknowledge it's a serious issue. Will hopefully know more by tomorrow sometime.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Smith* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> More on the trailing issue...
> 
> 
> I called the local authorized Sony repair center on Monday morning, and they said a technician would call me back. It is now Thursday and I've been informed they've been "working with Sony on the issue". Not sure what that exactly means for me, but at least they seem to acknowledge it's a serious issue. Will hopefully know more by tomorrow sometime.



Keep us posted!


----------



## Moegames




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tivotony* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> HDMI was one of the considerations, but I was equally interested (if not more so) in having a widescreen picture. My 36XBR is 4:3. I think I lose a lot of my available picture size with letterboxed content. I appreciate the comments, however. I love this stuff, but I'm pretty much a novice.



You lose roughly one inch viewing ws content on that 36inch then if you had a 34inch ws sony. The diffrence is pretty small..i believe for a 36inch you get a 33inch ws picture. On the 34 inch widescreen tv's..you get your 34inch ws picture.


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tivotony* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> HDMI was one of the considerations, but I was equally interested (if not more so) in having a widescreen picture. My 36XBR is 4:3. I think I lose a lot of my available picture size with letterboxed content. I appreciate the comments, however. I love this stuff, but I'm pretty much a novice.



It shouldn't make any difference in widescreen, if you are loosing picture to the right and left, you may need some overscan adjustment. If you are viewing letterbox content with the bars on top and bottom, you should not be loosing any picture content, it's just a little smaller (5%). Your 36 4:3 TV will display a 33 16:9 image (28.8 x 16.2). That 1 difference from the 34 widescreen (29.6 x 16.7) TV is only a 5% reduction in picture size. Not enough to worry about.


----------



## liquidneba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Smith* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> liquidneba: Did you ever get anywhere with your trailing issue on your set? I've been busy with work, so haven't had the time to set up a service appointment. Will be doing that this week.



Hey Brad,


I was in the same situation as well, work work... work! The problem wasn't resolved. Anyway, I told Leader TV (Rochester, NY) that I would go to Circuit City and check how the dvds looked like on the display model. I finally did it today, and I couldn't see a ghosting/trailing issue at all. What I did was, I had them connect a Sony DVD player component video, so I could watch progressive. I then quickly changed the settings to the Pro, monitor, etc. etc. I watched the DVD's the scenes where I could easily reproduce the trailing on my TV at home. One word... nada, I think you and I have defective sets. I'll be calling Leader TV tomorrow, to update them so they can update Sony and get this ball rolling again for a new TV!


Btw. reading Q's ISF calibration story, made me a little misty eyed, I'm very happy for you Q, enjoy TV nirvanca, I hope to join you in a few months! Maybe I can get Chad to come to Rochester.



Regards,


----------



## liquidneba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Smith* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> More on the trailing issue...
> 
> 
> I called the local authorized Sony repair center on Monday morning, and they said a technician would call me back. It is now Thursday and I've been informed they've been "working with Sony on the issue". Not sure what that exactly means for me, but at least they seem to acknowledge it's a serious issue. Will hopefully know more by tomorrow sometime.




You and I need to stay in touch on this. We'll get to the bottom. I'll do my half to keep everyone here updated. Btw. when the Tech was at my house a few weeks ago to put the new board in, I took a few pictures. Guess what the firewire is connected a usb connector inside. I wonder... I have pictures if anyone would like to see.


----------



## andrewjnyc

I posted about this issue I've had with the PS2 and Xbox on my 960 when I got the set a year ago, and no-one had an answer then...but I thought maybe someone had solved it in the meantime, so here I am asking again:


For whatever reason, when I use the PS2 and Xbox on the 960, the signal for games that are supposed to be 16:9 is read as being 4:3, so the picture is stretched no matter what mode I select on the TV. Xbox games that are 720p or 1080i are correctly interpreted as 16:9, but anything in 480p on either system is parsed as 4:3. Both systems are connected by component cables that pass through my Denon AVR-3805 en route to the TV. When I run a DVD player into the TV, its 480p signal is correctly parsed as 16:9, but with game consoles, it's no dice. Does anyone have any clue what might be causing this, or if there's any solution--short of an uber-expensive device to upscan the console signals to 720p--that would allow me to get unstretched, undistorted proper aspect-ratio images from game consoles on the 960? Thanks!


----------



## VinnieR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a center channel speaker sitting on top of their 960? If so what are the dimensions of the speaker? I'm thinking about getting a P-digm 470 or 570 and I'm limited to placing any center channel I get on the top of the TV.




I placed my CC570 from my front projector HT room on top of my 960 (which is going into another room). It fits and is stable up there. However, it really is large, being almost as wide as the screen. I turned everything on and there was no problem with interference from the speaker sitting so close to the CRT. Paradigm's shielding seems to do the job. BTW, I can't say enough good about my Studio Paradigms. Awesome sound.


Here's a picture if I did this correctly:


----------



## pdroth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andrewjnyc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I posted about this issue I've had with the PS2 and Xbox on my 960 when I got the set a year ago, and no-one had an answer then...but I thought maybe someone had solved it in the meantime, so here I am asking again:
> 
> 
> For whatever reason, when I use the PS2 and Xbox on the 960, the signal for games that are supposed to be 16:9 is read as being 4:3, so the picture is stretched no matter what mode I select on the TV. Xbox games that are 720p or 1080i are correctly interpreted as 16:9, but anything in 480p on either system is parsed as 4:3. Both systems are connected by component cables that pass through my Denon AVR-3805 en route to the TV. When I run a DVD player into the TV, its 480p signal is correctly parsed as 16:9, but with game consoles, it's no dice. Does anyone have any clue what might be causing this, or if there's any solution--short of an uber-expensive device to upscan the console signals to 720p--that would allow me to get unstretched, undistorted proper aspect-ratio images from game consoles on the 960? Thanks!




I can only speak about Xbox and what you are describing is a known "bug" with the console.


However, games that support widescreen in 480p will NOT look distorted if you stretch them despite that the TV doesn't pick up the 16:9 signal.


Supposedly the Xbox 360 will fix all of that in November since EVERY game will be in 720p or 1080i.


----------



## Q of BanditZ

It's not a glitch. Many Xbox games say "HDTV 480p" on the back, but that doesn't mean anamorphic widescreen. Only true HD is going to be outright 16X9.


PS2 games, for the most part, don't even have that.


I've tested the Xbox away from my receiver, any which wayyou choose, and with the dashboard properly set.


You either have to throw the 960 to Full or Wide Zoom and then it's perfect. If you hit display, you'll see that the TV says "480p 4:3" even if your Xbox is set to 16X9 and everything is turned on. That's just the way it is. Nothing to be done about it with this present generation of games and gaming hardware.


I'm VERY much looking forward to playing my games in true 16X9 HD come this November.


----------



## tennberg

Does anyone know if there are any software or firmware updates available for the 960? For such a complex set that runs Linux on it, I would imagine that something would need to be updated eventually. I heard somewhere that there was some update available on a Memory Stick. Does anyone have any insight? A look at Sony's difficult-to-navigate site shows no available updates.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if there are any software or firmware updates available for the 960? For such a complex set that runs Linux on it, I would imagine that something would need to be updated eventually. I heard somewhere that there was some update available on a Memory Stick. Does anyone have any insight? A look at Sony's difficult-to-navigate site shows no available updates.



No idea. Maybe try and call Sony?


----------



## andrewjnyc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pdroth* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I can only speak about Xbox and what you are describing is a known "bug" with the console.
> 
> 
> However, games that support widescreen in 480p will NOT look distorted if you stretch them despite that the TV doesn't pick up the 16:9 signal.
> 
> 
> Supposedly the Xbox 360 will fix all of that in November since EVERY game will be in 720p or 1080i.




This is what I've heard, but in many games that theoretically truly support widescreen, there's still evidence of stretching (if the buttons are shown onscreen in control-customization menu, for example, they often look slightly oval instead of perfectly round.


I'm really, *really* hoping that the Xbox 360's backwards compatability will include the ability to output old Xbox games at 720p...that'd completely solve this problem, at least where the Xbox is concerned.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *VinnieR* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I placed my CC570 from my front projector HT room on top of my 960 (which is going into another room). It fits and is stable up there. However, it really is large, being almost as wide as the screen. I turned everything on and there was no problem with interference from the speaker sitting so close to the CRT. Paradigm's shielding seems to do the job. BTW, I can't say enough good about my Studio Paradigms. Awesome sound.
> 
> Here's a picture if I did this correctly:



Thanks for the reply and photo. Have you watched any movies with it sitting up there? I'm wondering if cabinet vibes would cause it slide off over time. The CC570 is pretty large though, so it's weight may keep it from moving.


----------



## VinnieR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply and photo. Have you watched any movies with it sitting up there? I'm wondering if cabinet vibes would cause it slide off over time. The CC570 is pretty large though, so it's weight may keep it from moving.




No, but I'll stick the speaker back up on the set and rattle the windows for the next couple of days and I'll report here on the results.


I've got my 960 sitting on the floor in my HT below the screen while I worked with Sony on getting a unit that could actually display straight lines. After I have burned in the set for a couple of weeks to confirm that it is not going to fail, it will be installed in a location that will make further servicing difficult.


----------



## dukebowden




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply and photo. Have you watched any movies with it sitting up there? I'm wondering if cabinet vibes would cause it slide off over time. The CC570 is pretty large though, so it's weight may keep it from moving.



You might want to try some velcro (no kidding). I picked up some from my local drugstore on my wife's advice and slapped it on the bottom of my center channel. It seems to be very stable on top of the TV now -- doesn't wobble or shift around at all. Kind of a ghetto solution, I guess, but it works and it's cheaper than buying a shelf for it.


I have a smaller Cambridge Soundworks center channel, but like the other posters, I haven't noticed any interference with the screen with it sitting on top of the Tv. Magnetic shielding must be working, I guess.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dukebowden* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You might want to try some velcro (no kidding). I picked up some from my local drugstore on my wife's advice and slapped it on the bottom of my center channel. It seems to be very stable on top of the TV now -- doesn't wobble or shift around at all. Kind of a ghetto solution, I guess, but it works and it's cheaper than buying a shelf for it.
> 
> 
> I have a smaller Cambridge Soundworks center channel, but like the other posters, I haven't noticed any interference with the screen with it sitting on top of the Tv. Magnetic shielding must be working, I guess.



Is there some cheapskate way I can do something about the slight gouse field my center channel is creating in the upper right corner of my TV?


I know my speakers are SUPPOSED to be shielded...


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there some cheapskate way I can do something about the slight gouse field my center channel is creating in the upper right corner of my TV?
> 
> 
> I know my speakers are SUPPOSED to be shielded...



Q:


I really can't think of any cheap way to do it. The only way would be to find a better-shielded center channel speaker or to invest in an audio/video rack where the center channel can sit on its own shelf.


I don't find the top of the 960 to be very stable for anything to sit on it and, although my center channel and left/right front speakers are shielded, I make sure they are at least 6" for the center channel and at least a foot away for the left/right channels.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Q:
> 
> 
> I really can't think of any cheap way to do it. The only way would be to find a better-shielded center channel speaker or to invest in an audio/video rack where the center channel can sit on its own shelf.



This is probably going to happen before the year is out. [/quote]


----------



## VinnieR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply and photo. Have you watched any movies with it sitting up there? I'm wondering if cabinet vibes would cause it slide off over time. The CC570 is pretty large though, so it's weight may keep it from moving.



I put the CC570 back on top the 960, put _Phantom_ in the DVD, selected some music scenes with lots of base and other good stuff, and cranked it up. My ears are still ringing! At a measured 108 db at my usual seat, the Paradigm didn't move at all. Even with the Servo 15 sub rattling the windows, the CC570 sat completely still. However...


As I guess you know, the studio series Paradigm's are not efficient speakers. They take a pretty hefty amp to drive to the absurd levels we all love. My Denon 5803 puts out 170 watts X 7 and was nearing fully driven to achieve the 108 db I used. (I stopped at 108 because I couldn't stand it any louder, was hand holding the SPL meter, and didn't want to go find my shooting earmuffs.) At these levels there is a pretty hefty current flow to the speakers, enough apparently to overcome the shielding. As a result, there was some magnetic interference visible on the screen, mostly top left. Minor, but it was there and repeatable.


At more realistic sound pressure levels (under 100 db) I never saw even the slightest flutter on the screen. But at levels as low as 104, the interference was clearly visible.


So my conclusion is that the CC570 will fit and stay stable on the 960 and, except at ear splitting volumes, will not interfere with the CRT. However, at extremely loud (ear damage?) levels, you might get some interference. As to whether you think it looks good on top of the Sony, you can judge for yourself. To me, the better solution would be to separate the two with some type of furniture/stand for a better look and no chance of magnetic interference.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *VinnieR* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So my conclusion is that the CC570 will fit and stay stable on the 960 and, except at ear splitting volumes, will not interfere with the CRT. However, at extremely loud (ear damage?) levels, you might get some interference. As to whether you think it looks good on top of the Sony, you can judge for yourself. To me, the better solution would be to separate the two with some type of furniture/stand for a better look and no chance of magnetic interference.



Thanks for testing this for me I greatly appreciate it.


Looks like I can sit it on top temporarily until I find a long term solution.


----------



## Newport_Racer

I set up my 960 without connecting my new Tivo, was waiting for rest of audio system and the cable picture was adequate.


I connected up the Tivo, RG6 from Cable box to Tivo and S-video out of the Tivo to the set and the cable picture now is pretty crappy. Any one else have suggestion on connection to improve the picture, other than splitting the cable feed?


Thanks in advance


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Newport_Racer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I set up my 960 without connecting my new Tivo, was waiting for rest of audio system and the cable picture was adequate.
> 
> 
> I connected up the Tivo, RG6 from Cable box to Tivo and S-video out of the Tivo to the set and the cable picture now is pretty crappy. Any one else have suggestion on connection to improve the picture, other than splitting the cable feed?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance



Newport:


Any chance your Tivo has component video outputs? Those would help to improve the PQ.


On the other hand, I've noticed that any signal other than 1080i/720p cable or 480p DVD doesn't look as good on the 960 as it would on a good 4:3 set. Any basic cable or digital cable channels on my set are so-so. This set was truly meant for HD cable or DVD watching only.


----------



## spongebob




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Newport_Racer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I set up my 960 without connecting my new Tivo, was waiting for rest of audio system and the cable picture was adequate.
> 
> 
> I connected up the Tivo, RG6 from Cable box to Tivo and S-video out of the Tivo to the set and the cable picture now is pretty crappy. Any one else have suggestion on connection to improve the picture, other than splitting the cable feed?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance




Try a composite instead of S cable. Should look better on that set.


bob


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spongebob* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Try a composite instead of S cable. Should look better on that set.
> 
> 
> bob



I think you mean "component video." COMPOSITE is actually a step DOWN from S-Video.


----------



## POWERFUL

No stand-alone Tivos have component outputs. Only D* HD Tivo, some DVDRs, and the Replay sets have component outputs. I use a DVDR with component outs and I have to say the upconvert from S-video to component that the DVDR is almost night and day. The sat feed that I use is unwatchable with the S-video inputs on the XBR but the DVDR S-video upconvert to component makes it watchable and it sometimes recognized the widescreen flags.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Newport_Racer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I set up my 960 without connecting my new Tivo, was waiting for rest of audio system and the cable picture was adequate.
> 
> 
> I connected up the Tivo, RG6 from Cable box to Tivo and S-video out of the Tivo to the set and the cable picture now is pretty crappy. Any one else have suggestion on connection to improve the picture, other than splitting the cable feed?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance



Why not split the cable feed?


Fewer conversion steps (analog-to-digital/digital-to-analog, composite-to-"S"/ "S" to composite, etc.) is always best. My guess (since I don't have a TiVo) is that the TiVo is doing some conversions and signal processing, and thereby is introducing distortion. If you don't have to "loop through" the TiVo, then don't.


Mark


----------



## tennberg

I searched this thread but couldn't find a definitive answer: What is the native resolution of the 34XBR960?


----------



## Newport_Racer

Correct, no component, I would have used that so S-Video was my best choice.


Issues with splitting feed is I have swith to use the Tivo and its features of TV pausing etc.


Thanks!


----------



## Newport_Racer

I didn't think "native resolution" was something that was associated with CRTs?


----------



## DSperber

Wow... XBR960, and no HD to drive it?


Time for a bit of an overall supporting equpment and cable service upgrade, if you ask me?


You won't find HD Tivo from cable companies, but their HD DVR's do a pretty good job in general, especially the Motorola 6412 and Scientific Atlanta 8300. Then you'll be able to get HD to the XBR960, via component or HDMI-to-HDMI or DVI-to-HDMI.


The XBR960 deserves to be fed HD. S-video SD is fair (not bad, but not fabulous), as I suspect composite SD would be (but can't speak firsthand). But it's in the HD world where this set shines and where you'll get your money's worth.


Plus, don't you want HD???


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I searched this thread but couldn't find a definitive answer: What is the native resolution of the 34XBR960?



This set displays 1080i and 480p "natively."


----------



## Q of BanditZ

Does this TV actually display the picture at a given and assigned refresh rate, or does it convert ANYTHING back to 60hz internally?


I was messing around with my PC today and connected it to the XBR960 via HDMI/DVI. I set the resolution at 1280 x 720 just to keep it well within bounds, at 60Hz. To my amazement, I saw that I was able to turn the refresh rate as high as 85Hz, and let me tell ya...THAT looked great! I really was blown away and tempted to fire up Half Life 2 in widescreen, but time was my enemy at that point.


What's the story on this, people?


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does this TV actually display the picture at a given and assigned refresh rate, or does it convert ANYTHING back to 60hz internally?
> 
> 
> I was messing around with my PC today and connected it to the XBR960 via HDMI/DVI. I set the resolution at 1280 x 720 just to keep it well within bounds, at 60Hz. To my amazement, I saw that I was able to turn the refresh rate as high as 85Hz, and let me tell ya...THAT looked great! I really was blown away and tempted to fire up Half Life 2 in widescreen, but time was my enemy at that point.
> 
> 
> What's the story on this, people?



Q:


When you had your set ISF calibrated, did you ask Chad if you could adjust the refresh rate on the 960? I would think it's not possible due to constraints on broadcast signals. Maybe I'm just not thinking correctly. Perhaps you can only adjust the refresh rate of the 960 externally, like through a PC, and not via an internal setting.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Q:
> 
> 
> When you had your set ISF calibrated, did you ask Chad if you could adjust the refresh rate on the 960? I would think it's not possible due to constraints on broadcast signals. Maybe I'm just not thinking correctly. Perhaps you can only adjust the refresh rate of the 960 externally, like through a PC, and not via an internal setting.



Externally IS the only way it could be done, if at all. Chad and I fooled around with some settings and it looked like maybe I could fudge a few things.


I see a lot of people talking about using external processors and watching film based material at 72Hz instead of 60Hz and how much better that looks. Certainly from a PC application, a higher refresh rate is always easier and better on the eyes, so that makes sense.


Given this kind of display, I certainly wouldn't expect miracles by any means, but since I'm contemplating buying a processor for use with other devices that I own...I'm wondering if I could do that or not as well? It'd be a nice bonus.










The real trick would be: Would the 960 force any incoming signal to go right back to 60Hz anyways? When I did this trick with my PC and cranked it to 85Hz, was I really seeing that, or was the 960 converting that 85Hz from the PC right back down to 60Hz? I did this over DVI-HDMI.


BTW, when's Chad coming to see you?


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Externally IS the only way it could be done, if at all. Chad and I fooled around with some settings and it looked like maybe I could fudge a few things.
> 
> 
> I see a lot of people talking about using external processors and watching film based material at 72Hz instead of 60Hz and how much better that looks. Certainly from a PC application, a higher refresh rate is always easier and better on the eyes, so that makes sense.
> 
> 
> Given this kind of display, I certainly wouldn't expect miracles by any means, but since I'm contemplating buying a processor for use with other devices that I own...I'm wondering if I could do that or not as well? It'd be a nice bonus.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The real trick would be: Would the 960 force any incoming signal to go right back to 60Hz anyways? When I did this trick with my PC and cranked it to 85Hz, was I really seeing that, or was the 960 converting that 85Hz from the PC right back down to 60Hz? I did this over DVI-HDMI.
> 
> 
> BTW, when's Chad coming to see you?



Q:


Good luck on that external processor. I don't believe I'm at that level yet, given that an iScanHD+ runs about $1500 and the highly-rated Silicon Optix OptiScaler runs about $2000. In addition, it would mean adding more cables and make my current set-up a bit more convoluted than I'm comfortable with. I'd love to hear your results though. Maybe I'll be down that road in a couple years.


I've been e-mailing Chad back and forth. He has another client he is visiting in Boston, and has suggested the October/November timeframe. An exact date has not yet been set. I'm hoping to schedule a day when my roommate can be home, so lifting the TV off its stand to adjust some things will be that much easier.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Q:
> 
> 
> Good luck on that external processor. I don't believe I'm at that level yet, given that an iScanHD+ runs about $1500 and the highly-rated Silicon Optix OptiScaler runs about $2000. In addition, it would mean adding more cables and make my current set-up a bit more convoluted than I'm comfortable with. I'd love to hear your results though. Maybe I'll be down that road in a couple years.



I'm exploring this as a bonus item, at best. I may feel more tantalized if I learn that I can take advantage of the "film at 72Hz" feature, in addition to benefits that my other gear would take.


I'm waiting to see what DVDO's next product looks like as well as keeping an eye on Lumagen and a few other odds and ends. This is not an earth shattering priority for me by any means. Call it more of an "academic curiosity."



> Quote:
> I've been e-mailing Chad back and forth. He has another client he is visiting in Boston, and has suggested the October/November timeframe. An exact date has not yet been set. I'm hoping to schedule a day when my roommate can be home, so lifting the TV off its stand to adjust some things will be that much easier.



It'll work out!


----------



## Newport_Racer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wow... XBR960, and no HD to drive it?
> 
> 
> Time for a bit of an overall supporting equpment and cable service upgrade, if you ask me?
> 
> 
> You won't find HD Tivo from cable companies, but their HD DVR's do a pretty good job in general, especially the Motorola 6412 and Scientific Atlanta 8300. Then you'll be able to get HD to the XBR960, via component or HDMI-to-HDMI or DVI-to-HDMI.
> 
> 
> The XBR960 deserves to be fed HD. S-video SD is fair (not bad, but not fabulous), as I suspect composite SD would be (but can't speak firsthand). But it's in the HD world where this set shines and where you'll get your money's worth.
> 
> 
> Plus, don't you want HD???




Driving HD with OTA antenna, I have Adelphia, enough said!


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi, Just ordered a 960 and it should arrive in a week (I already put together the matching stand).


It will replace a 32 inch 4x3 and I know the 16x9 screen will be larger than my current tv in the letterbox mode (which is equivalent to a 29 inch 16x9). I also will sit a foot closer to the 960 (about 7 1/2 feet instead of 8 1/2). While not a "big screen" set, compared to what I'm currently using will the 960's additional 17% screen size (and one foot less viewing distance) provide a large impact in size or would it be just a subtle change? It's hard to tell in stores. I know the 4x3 mode will be reduced to the equivalent of a 27" set, however, I plan to use one of the stretch modes so the effect will not look smaller.


Of course, I'm not worried about the impact of picture quality.


I'm very excited getting this set - already replaced my digital cable box with an HD box and have the HDMI monster cable. Too bad the Mets decided to go into a slight tailspin as I am getting ready to see them in HD!


Thanks for your thoughts about this subject.


Joe


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi, Just ordered a 960 and it should arrive in a week (I already put together the matching stand).
> 
> 
> It will replace a 32 inch 4x3 and I know the 16x9 screen will be larger than my current tv in the letterbox mode (which is equivalent to a 29 inch 16x9). I also will sit a foot closer to the 960 (about 7 1/2 feet instead of 8 1/2). While not a "big screen" set, compared to what I'm currently using will the 960's additional 17% screen size (and one foot less viewing distance) provide a large impact in size or would it be just a subtle change? It's hard to tell in stores. I know the 4x3 mode will be reduced to the equivalent of a 27" set, however, I plan to use one of the stretch modes so the effect will not look smaller.
> 
> 
> Of course, I'm not worried about the impact of picture quality.
> 
> 
> I'm very excited getting this set - already replaced my digital cable box with an HD box and have the HDMI monster cable. Too bad the Mets decided to go into a slight tailspin as I am getting ready to see them in HD!
> 
> 
> Thanks for your thoughts about this subject.
> 
> 
> Joe



Joseph:


Congratulations on your purchase! Even though it's not a "big screen" set, as you say, I believe the 960 provides the best picture quality across the board versus any other technology out there right now (e.g., LCD, plasma, DLP, rear projection, etc.)


I too was a bit worried when I got the set a year ago how 4:3 material would look on it. To be honest, I have noticed that analog cable channels and even some digital cable channels look worse on this set than your average 4:3 good-quality non-HDTV CRT (mostly analog cable though, which just looks bad).


Here in Boston, I have an HD cable box through Comcast and find myself watching the 16 HD channels we get much more than the couple hundred channels I get that are analog or digital. I will say the set has changed my viewing habits, as I tend to mostly watch HD or DVD material on it.


On the stretch mode you plan on using, I don't use it. Even though it gives the impression of 16:9, it throws everything out of proportion. I like to watch material in its original aspect ratio. Plus, I believe you'll get used to the black bars on the left and right, as I have.


Again, congrats on the purchase. Let us know how it works out.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Joseph:
> 
> 
> Congratulations on your purchase! Even though it's not a "big screen" set, as you say, I believe the 960 provides the best picture quality across the board versus any other technology out there right now (e.g., LCD, plasma, DLP, rear projection, etc.)
> 
> 
> I too was a bit worried when I got the set a year ago how 4:3 material would look on it. To be honest, I have noticed that analog cable channels and even some digital cable channels look worse on this set than your average 4:3 good-quality non-HDTV CRT (mostly analog cable though, which just looks bad).
> 
> 
> Here in Boston, I have an HD cable box through Comcast and find myself watching the 16 HD channels we get much more than the couple hundred channels I get that are analog or digital. I will say the set has changed my viewing habits, as I tend to mostly watch HD or DVD material on it.
> 
> 
> On the stretch mode you plan on using, I don't use it. Even though it gives the impression of 16:9, it throws everything out of proportion. I like to watch material in its original aspect ratio. Plus, I believe you'll get used to the black bars on the left and right, as I have.
> 
> 
> Again, congrats on the purchase. Let us know how it works out.



Hi Tennberg,


I've heard some say analog transmissions don't look as good on the HD Digital sets compared to analog. Isn't the 960 supposed to upgrade all non-HD material? A friend of mine has the Toshiba 34 inch tube HDTV and I did notice a clearer picture just using the building's master antenna. Why he doesn't subscribe to digital and HD cable is beyond me. By the way, we're in the Bronx, but please don't boo us - we're Met fans!


I saw a side by side comparision of 4:3 and stretch mode and was surprised that the reproportion was so subtle - of course, its a matter of taste (we will let you what we eventually settle on). One thing we are concerned about using 4:3 is the possibility of burn in. Even though the chance is low, we don't want to take any risks.


We chose the smaller width of our living room (12 feet approximately) because the longer length is in line with a picture window. Taking into account the room size and that we would sit about 7-1/2 feet away from the set we assumed anything bigger than a 37 inch LCD would be too large. Are we correct to assume the 34 inch widescreen will be ample enough to provide a larger home theater effect compared to the letterbox in our 32 inch 4:3 which also is a foot further back?


Thanks always,

Joe


----------



## gigaguy

I did thesame, went from a Sony 4:3 32" to the 34xbr960. I also moved my couch up a foot to about 7-8'. SD is definitely noticeably smaller and looked poor at first, but after tweaking the set I got SD to look dramatically better, turn Sharpness down or even to 0, and brightness and light levels as low as possible.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gigaguy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I did thesame, went from a Sony 4:3 32" to the 34xbr960. I also moved my couch up a foot to about 7-8'. SD is definitely noticeably smaller and looked poor at first, but after tweaking the set I got SD to look dramatically better, turn Sharpness down or even to 0, and brightness and light levels as low as possible.




Agree with you 100% about low levels for brightness, sharpness, etc. I use the THX optimizer found on some DVD's as a reference. It has specific screens to adjust contrast, black level, color and sharpness for the monitor.


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Tennberg,
> 
> 
> I've heard some say analog transmissions don't look as good on the HD Digital sets compared to analog. Isn't the 960 supposed to upgrade all non-HD material? A friend of mine has the Toshiba 34 inch tube HDTV and I did notice a clearer picture just using the building's master antenna. Why he doesn't subscribe to digital and HD cable is beyond me. By the way, we're in the Bronx, but please don't boo us - we're Met fans!
> 
> 
> I saw a side by side comparision of 4:3 and stretch mode and was surprised that the reproportion was so subtle - of course, its a matter of taste (we will let you what we eventually settle on). One thing we are concerned about using 4:3 is the possibility of burn in. Even though the chance is low, we don't want to take any risks.
> 
> 
> We chose the smaller width of our living room (12 feet approximately) because the longer length is in line with a picture window. Taking into account the room size and that we would sit about 7-1/2 feet away from the set we assumed anything bigger than a 37 inch LCD would be too large. Are we correct to assume the 34 inch widescreen will be ample enough to provide a larger home theater effect compared to the letterbox in our 32 inch 4:3 which also is a foot further back?
> 
> 
> Thanks always,
> 
> Joe



Joe:


Glad to hear you're not a Yankees fan 


My 960 is connected directly to my Comcast/Motorola 6412 cable box via high-quality component video cables. The 6412 outputs all HD material at 1080i and is set to output any 4:3 material at 1080i as well, so the box does the scaling for that part. I didn't notice any improvement upscaling the 4:3 material, but it does make the side bars narrower and also makes them black (as opposed to the gray it was before).


As far as burn-in, as long as you don't have contrast and brightness set too high, you'll be fine. It's those people who think turning up brightness will make the picture "better" that suffer from burn-in.


Assuming you were watching 16:9 material as letterbox on your 32" 4:3, you will see a huge improvement watching it on a 34" 16:9. Even DVDs in the 2.35:1 format (with black bars at the top and bottom) will be bigger. I sit about 6-7 feet away from my 960, and have found that to be the best viewing distance. Any closer and you'd get a headache. Any further and you'd have to move out of the CRT realm into plasma, LCD, or rear projection.


I am having my 960 professionally ISF calibrated this Fall, so I am hoping to see huge improvements in both HD material and SD material like DVDs or cable.


It's a shame that the 960 will probably be one of the last CRTs produced by Sony. I would have loved to see them improve on the 960 (as they did going from the 910 to the 960). Now *that* set would be something to see! This set should last you long enough until a technology comes around that can trump CRT in all areas.


----------



## tennberg

To all 960 owners:


What stand do you currently use to hold up your 960?


I currently use this stand:

http://www.sjgreatdeals.com/avs-4201a.html 


and am finding that the top shelf is just too narrow left to right for the set. Plus, the glass is sliding a bit due to the weight of the TV (very difficult to center the weight of the set exactly) and I'm afraid the set may come crashing down one day.


I have no interest at all in the Sony stand, as it only has one useless shelf. I would need a stand that can easily hold the 960, has a bit more room left to right, and has room for an average size center channel speaker, a pre-amp/processor, a DVD player, and a Comcast cable box. I am looking to spend around 500-600, and for it to have a max width of around 60". (The current stand is around 40"). I would also prefer something in a mix of dark metal and glass over something in wood or plastic.


Thanks for any suggestions!


----------



## ptchristensen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What stand do you currently use to hold up your 960?



Mine can easily carry my 960, and then some...!

http://www.boltz.com/productinfo.asp...&deptcode1=503


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ptchristensen* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mine can easily carry my 960, and then some...!
> 
> http://www.boltz.com/productinfo.asp...&deptcode1=503



pt:


Thanks for that link. Their stuff is very nice, plus that stand wouldn't require me having to clean glass shelves all the time.


I priced out a system with the top shelf and three bottom shelves (1 shelf for pre-amp and DVD player, one shelf for cable box and future expansion, and one shelf for center channel), and man was it expensive. Though, I guess you're paying for very high quality furniture that will support the 960 like nothing else.


I'm going to keep that in mind while I search for other possibilities. Hopefully, I'll get a good price for my current stand as it's very recent and in perfect condition. I'm also going to try and adjust the top glass shelf on my current stand this week to minimize any further slipping.


----------



## LongRufus

I am very happy with this budget stand from CC:

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Z-Lin...oductDetail.do 


It might not be the stand for you since it is only slightly larger than your current stand, but it is sturdy, the bottom 2 shelves are generous and it looks great with the 960. I originally only bought it as a temporary fix until I found something better, but it has worked out so well I think it will be my permanent stand. Good luck with your search.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Joe:
> 
> 
> Glad to hear you're not a Yankees fan
> 
> 
> My 960 is connected directly to my Comcast/Motorola 6412 cable box via high-quality component video cables. The 6412 outputs all HD material at 1080i and is set to output any 4:3 material at 1080i as well, so the box does the scaling for that part. I didn't notice any improvement upscaling the 4:3 material, but it does make the side bars narrower and also makes them black (as opposed to the gray it was before).
> 
> 
> As far as burn-in, as long as you don't have contrast and brightness set too high, you'll be fine. It's those people who think turning up brightness will make the picture "better" that suffer from burn-in.
> 
> 
> Assuming you were watching 16:9 material as letterbox on your 32" 4:3, you will see a huge improvement watching it on a 34" 16:9. Even DVDs in the 2.35:1 format (with black bars at the top and bottom) will be bigger. I sit about 6-7 feet away from my 960, and have found that to be the best viewing distance. Any closer and you'd get a headache. Any further and you'd have to move out of the CRT realm into plasma, LCD, or rear projection.
> 
> 
> I am having my 960 professionally ISF calibrated this Fall, so I am hoping to see huge improvements in both HD material and SD material like DVDs or cable.
> 
> 
> It's a shame that the 960 will probably be one of the last CRTs produced by Sony. I would have loved to see them improve on the 960 (as they did going from the 910 to the 960). Now *that* set would be something to see! This set should last you long enough until a technology comes around that can trump CRT in all areas.



Hi again, Tennberg


Thanks for letting me know the picture size will look much bigger. Using a tape measure against our 4:3 didn't really allow us to evaluate the difference between a letterbox in a 4:3 32" set compared to the 960.


We will have many usages of the 960 inputs:


1) VIDEO 1 - On screen set-up menu from our Home Theater 6.1 receiver.


2) VIDEO 4 - VCR.


3) CABLE - We have a splitter so unscrambled channels can be seen in PIP.


4) VHF/UHF - For our lobby/laundry room channels which are on the building's master antenna (also for PIP).


5) VIDEO 5 - For DVD


6) VIDEO 6 - To allow my wife to operate the set without use of the receiver for audio - see 7).


7) VIDEO 7 - DVI output from our box connected to HDMI cable converter for our main HDTV viewing. The optical audio output goes directly into our 6.1 receiver, hence the need for VIDEO 4 for my spouse when I'm not home (she's butterfingers with using audio equipment).


See any problems with this I'm not aware of?


Hope making all the screen adjustments necessary for the best picture will be as simple (I have a bad habit of always trying to see if I can make the picture better) LOL.


Will let you know how things go once it's set-up. Thanks for all your advice in advance of our delivery.


Best,

Joe


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi again, Tennberg
> 
> 
> Thanks for letting me know the picture size will look much bigger. Using a tape measure against our 4:3 didn't really allow us to evaluate the difference between a letterbox in a 4:3 32" set compared to the 960.
> 
> 
> We will have many usages of the 960 inputs:
> 
> 
> 1) VIDEO 1 - On screen set-up menu from our Home Theater 6.1 receiver.
> 
> 
> 2) VIDEO 4 - VCR.
> 
> 
> 3) CABLE - We have a splitter so unscrambled channels can be seen in PIP.
> 
> 
> 4) VHF/UHF - For our lobby/laundry room channels which are on the building's master antenna (also for PIP).
> 
> 
> 5) VIDEO 5 - For DVD
> 
> 
> 6) VIDEO 6 - To allow my wife to operate the set without use of the receiver for audio - see 7).
> 
> 
> 7) VIDEO 7 - DVI output from our box connected to HDMI cable converter for our main HDTV viewing. The optical audio output goes directly into our 6.1 receiver, hence the need for VIDEO 4 for my spouse when I'm not home (she's butterfingers with using audio equipment).
> 
> 
> See any problems with this I'm not aware of?
> 
> 
> Hope making all the screen adjustments necessary for the best picture will be as simple (I have a bad habit of always trying to see if I can make the picture better) LOL.
> 
> 
> Will let you know how things go once it's set-up. Thanks for all your advice in advance of our delivery.
> 
> 
> Best,
> 
> Joe



Hey Joe,


You're definitely putting all the inputs to use!


On my setup, I use the front video input for any on-screen menus I need to use, e.g. my pre-amp, but use a temporary cable and only plug it in when I need to change something. All other times, that door stays closed.


I don't split my incoming cable signal as I've had problems with the wiring in the building in the past, and had to have Comcast and TriWire come out to rewire much of it. I'm no longer getting weak signals or pixelation and don't want to mess with it any further.


My building doesn't have any security cameras, so that's not used.


I also no longer use my VCR, so it's not plugged in. I have about 12 VHS tapes still (in comparison to about 200 DVDs), but will eventually be buying the DVD equivalents for those tapes. In the meantime, there's no need to watch them, so the VCR sits in the closet.


I only use Video 5 and Video 6 (component inputs). Video 5 is used for my Comcast HD DVR cable box and Video 6 is for my Denon DVD player. I've hear mixed reviews about using HDMI on this "analog" set, so I don't bother with it.


It sounds like you're going to have a lot of wires in the back. I'd make sure you have enough room to reach around the back and work with any cables should a problem arise.


Let me know if you have any other questions.


P.S. - I found this calculator that will let you compare a 4:3 TV to a 16:9 TV. It will show you how much larger or smaller 4:3 material, 1.85:1 material, and even 2.35:1 material will be on each set. Enjoy!

http://www.cavecreations.com/tv2.cgi


----------



## Joseph Dubin




tennberg said:


> Hey Joe,
> 
> 
> You're definitely putting all the inputs to use!
> 
> 
> On my setup, I use the front video input for any on-screen menus I need to use, e.g. my pre-amp, but use a temporary cable and only plug it in when I need to change something. All other times, that door stays closed.
> 
> 
> I don't split my incoming cable signal as I've had problems with the wiring in the building in the past, and had to have Comcast and TriWire come out to rewire much of it. I'm no longer getting weak signals or pixelation and don't want to mess with it any further.
> 
> 
> My building doesn't have any security cameras, so that's not used.
> 
> 
> I also no longer use my VCR, so it's not plugged in. I have about 12 VHS tapes still (in comparison to about 200 DVDs), but will eventually be buying the DVD equivalents for those tapes. In the meantime, there's no need to watch them, so the VCR sits in the closet.
> 
> 
> I only use Video 5 and Video 6 (component inputs). Video 5 is used for my Comcast HD DVR cable box and Video 6 is for my Denon DVD player. I've hear mixed reviews about using HDMI on this "analog" set, so I don't bother with it.
> 
> 
> It sounds like you're going to have a lot of wires in the back. I'd make sure you have enough room to reach around the back and work with any cables should a problem arise.
> 
> 
> Let me know if you have any other questions.
> 
> 
> P.S. - I found this calculator that will let you compare a 4:3 TV to a 16:9 TV. It will show you how much larger or smaller 4:3 material, 1.85:1 material, and even 2.35:1 material will be on each set. Enjoy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi again, Tennberg,
> 
> 
> Thanks for sending the link for the comparision ratios.
> 
> 
> When I called my cable company about using a splitter I was told to get a special type which compensated for signal loss. It looks the same as an ordinary splitter, runs about $10 at your local radio shack and does the trick. Use it for those unscrambled stations to get more use of your PIP.
> 
> 
> Yup, have the room for the wires. Also have two large unused pieces of beige shelving which will be put behind the sony stand to hide the unsightly barage of wires.
> 
> 
> Catch you soon,
> 
> Joe


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> To all 960 owners:
> 
> 
> What stand do you currently use to hold up your 960?
> 
> 
> I currently use this stand:
> 
> http://www.sjgreatdeals.com/avs-4201a.html



Mine is on this BDI stand.

http://www.homeaudiosuperstore.com/product78.html


----------



## timmernator




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LongRufus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am very happy with this budget stand from CC:
> 
> http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Z-Lin...oductDetail.do
> 
> 
> It might not be the stand for you since it is only slightly larger than your current stand, but it is sturdy, the bottom 2 shelves are generous and it looks great with the 960. I originally only bought it as a temporary fix until I found something better, but it has worked out so well I think it will be my permanent stand. Good luck with your search.



I've got the same stand for my 34XS955. I'm able to put 2 components side-by-side on the bottom shelf, and 2 plus my large HK center channel speaker on the upper shelf... looks good, too.


----------



## tennberg

Bit OT:


A regional electronics store chain is having their Private Sale this weekend to coincide with Massachusetts' tax-free weekend. This store is offering a Sony 37" plasma ( KDE-37XS955) for $2500, nearly $2000 off the original price.


Although it's tempting (lighter set to move if something needs to be adjusted, less strain on stand, 3" more viewing area), I do know that plasmas still have their own set of problems which, across the board, put them below the 960. Oh well


----------



## DSperber

If you want to spend a bit more money for a really excellent equipment rack, custom designed by you if you want, try Billy Bags Design:

Billy Bags Design equipment racks 


Explore the site, looking at various products, finishes, construction details, available surfaces and materials, etc. Build-to-spec, either pre-designed by them or from your own special design.


I had them custom-build me two back in 1993, one horizontal (for my 35" Mits at the time, then later a Sampo 34" weighing 195 pounds, and now holding my 200 pound Sony 34XBR960) and related video/audio equipment and which stands on six legs (to support the weight of the HDTV and because it was a horizontal low-boy design), and one vertical to hold my audio/stereo equipment and which stands on four legs. They used to be side-by-side in my living room but now they're in two separate rooms.


Each one was custom built to my specs, including the number and placement of interior shelves as well as the color of the 1" cold-rolled steel tubing (arc welded from the inside of the rack and with "wrinkle black" finish) and the material of the faux granite top. I didn't need a swivel top on my horizontal TV table/rack, but I could have had that as well if I'd wanted it.


I had planned out exactly what components I wanted to place on the shelves (seven in the video rack, eight in the audio rack) and knew exactly the dimensions of each one. I drew my own sketches (actually on my computer) with horizontal shelf/pipe and vertical separator/pipe placement and size to accommodate my precise intended equipment placement, and forwarded it to them. The drawings gave measurement details of the height and width of each opening as well as height off of the floor, allowing for 1" pipes/shelves as separators. They built from my drawings.


BOTH UNITS WERE DELIVERED PERFECTLY BUILT TO MY SPECIFICATIONS!!


I AM STILL USING BOTH OF THEM TODAY! DON'T KNOW WHAT I'D DO WITHOUT THEM.


Both units are finished with point-cone sound insulation feet that screw into the bottom of the legs and can be used to adjust for true horizontal of the table-top. You can also add tube-flex kits to hide wiring.


Billy Bags Design is a very well known audio/video and PC equipment rack builder. They have a number of off-the-shelf products, but will build to your personal spec for little or no additional cost (but get a price quote when you discuss such an order with them, and then get a final price when you provide them the detailed specs).


Not the cheapest, but perhaps the best.


----------



## accord 4 me

i just bought this tv..looks awesome even when its not on! lol anyways i've only been able to try dvd's right now (moving and wont get to try tv quite yet) (using component cables with my xbox to play movies) but the picture seems fuzzy/grainy..is that normal with dvd's or is the xbox the problem or what..was sorta expecting a better picture


thanks for any help..and i tried searching for similar questions..but there's so much to go through! sorry


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *accord 4 me* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i just bought this tv..looks awesome even when its not on! lol anyways i've only been able to try dvd's right now (moving and wont get to try tv quite yet) (using component cables with my xbox to play movies) but the picture seems fuzzy/grainy..is that normal with dvd's or is the xbox the problem or what..was sorta expecting a better picture
> 
> 
> thanks for any help..and i tried searching for similar questions..but there's so much to go through! sorry



Hey accord:


I've never used an Xbox, but you may want to go through its settings to make sure it's set for a 16:9 TV and NTSC (if those settings are on an Xbox).


I would then check to make sure you have the correct colors of each end of the component cable plugged into the corresponding correct color.


Now, is this fuzzy/grainy picture on all DVDs? If a movie was recorded on film, you will see graininess, as film is naturally grainy. If it's on all DVDs, it could be the Xbox or maybe even something is wrong with the component cables.


----------



## accord 4 me




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey accord:
> 
> 
> I've never used an Xbox, but you may want to go through its settings to make sure it's set for a 16:9 TV and NTSC (if those settings are on an Xbox).
> 
> 
> I would then check to make sure you have the correct colors of each end of the component cable plugged into the corresponding correct color.
> 
> 
> Now, is this fuzzy/grainy picture on all DVDs? If a movie was recorded on film, you will see graininess, as film is naturally grainy. If it's on all DVDs, it could be the Xbox or maybe even something is wrong with the component cables.



i set the xbox to 1080i/16x9/ntsc and the all colors are in the correct spots. the first movie i watched was saving private ryan, which really isn't a good movie to be judging that with, but i threw matrix revolutions in and its still pretty blocky/grainy. although when i play the incredibles its pretty clear. maybe i should test a few more movies first before deciding if its the tv or the dvd's










oh well..thanks for the help


eh..now that i watch the incredibles a bit more, it seems grainy as well. hmm


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *accord 4 me* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i set the xbox to 1080i/16x9/ntsc and the all colors are in the correct spots. the first movie i watched was saving private ryan, which really isn't a good movie to be judging that with, but i threw matrix revolutions in and its still pretty blocky/grainy. although when i play the incredibles its pretty clear. maybe i should test a few more movies first before deciding if its the tv or the dvd's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> oh well..thanks for the help
> 
> 
> eh..now that i watch the incredibles a bit more, it seems grainy as well. hmm



I'm not sure how the Xbox measures up as a DVD player against stand-alone DVD players. That might be part of the issue?


Is it possible for you to borrow a friend's DVD player to see if it might be the Xbox? Does the Xbox have any software/firmware updates that might affect DVD viewing?


----------



## accord 4 me




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm not sure how the Xbox measures up as a DVD player against stand-alone DVD players. That might be part of the issue?
> 
> 
> Is it possible for you to borrow a friend's DVD player to see if it might be the Xbox? Does the Xbox have any software/firmware updates that might affect DVD viewing?



i could try another dvd player yes, but now that i think of it, could the problem be that i haven't touched any of the settings. the tv is stock from the factory, is there stuff i should change before messing with another dvd player?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *accord 4 me* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i just bought this tv..looks awesome even when its not on! lol anyways i've only been able to try dvd's right now (moving and wont get to try tv quite yet) (using component cables with my xbox to play movies) but the picture seems fuzzy/grainy..is that normal with dvd's or is the xbox the problem or what..was sorta expecting a better picture
> 
> 
> thanks for any help..and i tried searching for similar questions..but there's so much to go through! sorry



Hi Accord,


You didn't mention if you played DVDs with your xbox connected to another television. If the fuzziness appears on the other set, then you know it's not the 960.


While not a technician my hunch is xbox supports DVDs but because the laser is specifically geared for game discs it doesn't incorporate all of the technology required to play DVDs as well as on a DVD player. This could cause a decrease in quality similar to those of cds in DVD players. My brother and I notice audio cds sound fuller in actual cd players compared to those for DVD. Perhaps the same holds true for video game consoles; these will support DVD software but with less quality than units built specifically for DVD.


Hope it all works out,

Joe


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Accord,
> 
> 
> You didn't mention if you played DVDs with your xbox connected to another television. If the fuzziness appears on the other set, then you know it's not the 960.
> 
> 
> While not a technician my hunch is xbox supports DVDs but because the laser is specifically geared for game discs it doesn't incorporate all of the technology required to play DVDs as well as on a DVD player. This could cause a decrease in quality similar to those of cds in DVD players. My brother and I notice audio cds sound fuller in actual cd players compared to those for DVD. Perhaps the same holds true for video game consoles; these will support DVD software but with less quality than units built specifically for DVD.
> 
> 
> Hope it all works out,
> 
> Joe




If the TV is stock and you never changed ANY settings, maybe the brightness and contrast are set too high (even sharpness). Set the input for the Xbox to "Monitor" and "Pro" (through the menu settings), then maybe pick up a calibration DVD (like Digital Video Essentials) to calibrate your DVD input.


I agree with Joe. Not to knock the Xbox, but it's not targeted as a DVD player. Before the 960, I had a Sony 4:3 curved tube CRT set with a Denon DVD-910 DVD player. Everything worked well, the picture was great, etc. etc. etc. I was using S-video at the time since that set (which I had had for several years didn't have any better inputs). Once I bought the 960, I upgraded to component cables and hooked up the DVD-910 and turned on progressive scan. Boy, was I shocked. THe picture was wavy and jittery. Turning off progressive scan made the problem go away. Apparently, there was a problem with my exact DVD player and TV when watching progressive scan material over component cables. Go figure.


Anyway, I was able to trade in the DVD player at the place I bought it for a credit towards a Denon DVD-2910. No more jitters, even better picture, plus I get the option of using SACD/DVD-Audio down the road. I'm not sure how much you'd consider spending on a standalone DVD player (The 2910 runs between $650-700). However, I watch a LOT of DVDs and consider it worth the cost to get a great picture.


----------



## gigaguy

As I've mentioned before this TV needs all settings turned way DOWN, esp Sharpness to 0 or close to it, also brightness and picture settings down, down. My image improved dramatically as I tweaked it over the first few weeks. Also it takes a month or more to break in so lower settings are better for the tube to break it in IMO.


----------



## accord 4 me




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gigaguy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As I've mentioned before this TV needs all settings turned way DOWN, esp Sharpness to 0 or close to it, also brightness and picture settings down, down. My image improved dramatically as I tweaked it over the first few weeks. Also it takes a month or more to break in so lower settings are better for the tube to break it in IMO.



is there a general range that most people set all their stuff to? i've never really known which settings to put where, so to know for sure what the "correct" settings were would be nice


and thanks for the help so far you guys, you've been great


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *accord 4 me* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> is there a general range that most people set all their stuff to? i've never really known which settings to put where, so to know for sure what the "correct" settings were would be nice
> 
> 
> and thanks for the help so far you guys, you've been great



Always: Pro and Monitor settings.


Bright and Contrast: 50 is your ABSOLUTE ceiling value.


Probably want to go into the high 30's or so, low 40's, depending on the room light you're dealing with.


Sharpness: Around 20 or so.


Color, Hue: Dead center values. (31 color, 0 Hue.)


Color temp: Neutral


VM: Low.


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Always: Pro and Monitor settings.
> 
> 
> Bright and Contrast: 50 is your ABSOLUTE ceiling value.
> 
> 
> Probably want to go into the high 30's or so, low 40's, depending on the room light you're dealing with.
> 
> 
> Sharpness: Around 20 or so.
> 
> 
> Color, Hue: Dead center values. (31 color, 0 Hue.)
> 
> 
> Color temp: Neutral
> 
> 
> VM: Low.



Q:


I thought VM should be disabled for the best possible picture. When Chad calibrated your set, didn't he disable VM? This other ISF guy I had spoken to a while back said VM should be off.


----------



## JohnGZ28

Is there a way to display just the time in the lower right without the input in the upper left?


----------



## spider4re

yeeeeeaaaahhh!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Q of BanditZ

YAY!







Nice recovery!


----------



## JohnGZ28

THANKS!


Now back to our regularly scheduled questioning.


Can we display just the time on our sets?


----------



## CrocHunter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Q:
> 
> 
> I thought VM should be disabled for the best possible picture. When Chad calibrated your set, didn't he disable VM? This other ISF guy I had spoken to a while back said VM should be off.



Yes that is correct, VSM should be disabled completely for better PQ and a much sharper picture with it off, trust me on this!


VSM has no purpose for high quality images.With it off you will start to notice details that were not visible before, and your PQ overall will be much clearer and crisp without the artificial sharpening of edges which VSM affects,it's best left completely off.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CrocHunter* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes that is correct, VSM should be disabled completely for better PQ and a much sharper picture with it off, trust me on this!
> 
> 
> VSM has no purpose for high quality images.With it off you will start to notice details that were not visible before, and your PQ overall will be much clearer and crisp without the artificial sharpening of edges which VSM affects,it's best left completely off.



This is all true.


I was just trying to throw that guy a pre-ISF ceiling value. More often than not, definitely VM off.


----------



## tennberg

Is the HDMI port on the back of the 960 HDCP-compliant?


Couple things related to this:


1. It seems odd there's no HDMI updates for the 960. My DVD player, a Denon-2910, was purchased about 2 months after I purchased the 960, and the 2910 has had several firmware releases since then, some of which were HDMI-related (one upgraded it to HDMI 1.1, the other improved performance, etc). Going to Sony's website shows no updates at all for the 960. It just seems odd for such a technically complex set.


2. It seems like when HD-DVD or Blu-Ray comes out, there will be no watching full-res high-def DVDs over component video. It will all be down-rezed to 480p. This makes that port that much more important.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is the HDMI port on the back of the 960 HDCP-compliant?



Of course!



> Quote:
> Couple things related to this:
> 
> 
> 1. It seems odd there's no HDMI updates for the 960. My DVD player, a Denon-2910, was purchased about 2 months after I purchased the 960, and the 2910 has had several firmware releases since then, some of which were HDMI-related (one upgraded it to HDMI 1.1, the other improved performance, etc). Going to Sony's website shows no updates at all for the 960. It just seems odd for such a technically complex set.



Your information is better than mine.


What kind of...improvements are you talking about and looking for?





> Quote:
> 2. It seems like when HD-DVD or Blu-Ray comes out, there will be no watching full-res high-def DVDs over component video. It will all be down-rezed to 480p. This makes that port that much more important.



Correct. HD over analog is basically dead, whether we like it or not. We have a fairly healthy debate about this in the DVD forum. Just hit the search and punch in either HDCP or HDMI and you'll find a rather healthy thread about HD-dVD and HDCP compliance.


We all knew this was coming. You want HD, you have to go digital and you have to go HDCP. When the axe got put down on component upscaling, that was the writing on the wall.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

We got our KD 34XBR960 around 6:30 PM last night. The picture quality on HDTV and DVD is outstanding. The digital and analog signals are very good but one gets spoiled with the quality of HD.


Thanks to everyone (especially Tennberg) for the information before it came. Yes, a 34 inch widescreen is more than big enough. Watched the Yankee game (sorry Tenn) and thought we were right in the Stadium.


On the downside, Sony sending us a new remote control. Was unable to navigate with the joy stick and after an hour and frustration worried if something was broken we realized we could do the video adjustments from the set itself (not as convenient, and of course, one should be away from the set when making them).


For some silly reason I wanted both component and HDMI hooked up for HD cable. Of course, that made the box go on and off quite often and I was told by the cable company that was a no-no. So it's just HDMI. Also have cable box hooked up to video 1 (s video) so 4x3 shows can be stretched out better (zoom for the analog pictures via HDMI is limited).


Took me a while to realize it takes about ten seconds for the HDTV to lock in the signal from the box.


Now, after a day of wiring and re-wiring, cables being pulled out, etc., I can sit back, relax and watch the show.


Best always,

Joe


----------



## Q of BanditZ

Enjoy!


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Follow up with our new toy.


Took a while to understand settings can be made individually for each video mode (Vivid, Progressive, etc.) so memory was working OK.


Use the MOVIE mode for HD, DVD, VCR and standard cable but was not quite satisfied with the picture on DVD. Was moving back and forth until deciding to go back to the same settings as per HDTV (customizing advanced video detail and blend not available on HD) - then refining it using the contrast/brightness/sharpness/color controls on the DVD player with a THX video optomizer as reference. Now DVD's coming in fine (proper black level, no color saturation, picture balance and sharpness set not too strong to create halos but not soft to loose detail.


Then put on my favorite James Bond films, "On Her Majesty's Secret Service" to see how much improvement from my old set and wow! Seen the movie so many times but never like this! The FIRST occasion we ever saw facial hair on male actors (or in "Moonraker" Bond's fingernails polished)!


Analog and digital stations are improved watching through the HDMI feed. Had mom over and watched the Yankees and golf and never seeing HD before she was floored how vivid and sharp the PGA was. It made watching golf on TV much more enjoyable than ever before.


We know from other posts how happy everyone is with this set. As long as the new remote control we're getting works and the set stays healthy, add us to the list.


Best,

Joe


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Follow up with our new toy.
> 
> 
> Took a while to understand settings can be made individually for each video mode (Vivid, Progressive, etc.) so memory was working OK.
> 
> 
> Use the MOVIE mode for HD, DVD, VCR and standard cable but was not quite satisfied with the picture on DVD. Was moving back and forth until deciding to go back to the same settings as per HDTV (customizing advanced video detail and blend not available on HD) - then refining it using the contrast/brightness/sharpness/color controls on the DVD player with a THX video optomizer as reference. Now DVD's coming in fine (proper black level, no color saturation, picture balance and sharpness set not too strong to create halos but not soft to loose detail.
> 
> 
> Then put on my favorite James Bond films, "On Her Majesty's Secret Service" to see how much improvement from my old set and wow! Seen the movie so many times but never like this! The FIRST occasion we ever saw facial hair on male actors (or in "Moonraker" Bond's fingernails polished)!
> 
> 
> Analog and digital stations are improved watching through the HDMI feed. Had mom over and watched the Yankees and golf and never seeing HD before she was floored how vivid and sharp the PGA was. It made watching golf on TV much more enjoyable than ever before.
> 
> 
> We know from other posts how happy everyone is with this set. As long as the new remote control we're getting works and the set stays healthy, add us to the list.
> 
> 
> Best,
> 
> Joe



Joe:


Glad to hear you're enjoying the set more and more. As others have said, setting the inputs you use to PRO and MONITOR make a huge difference. I also turn off VM on the inputs I use. Seeing DVDs on this set with a good quality DVD player is definitely worth it. Are you upscaling DVDs to 720p/1080i, or are you viewing them at 480i (or 480p if you have a progressive-scan DVD player)?


As I had mentioned to you (and spurned to do it even more by Q's review), I am getting my 960 prefessionally calibrated this Fall. I am eager to see the improvement, especially in geometry.




To everyone:


Do you know what kind of video DAC the 960 uses? I'd like to get some information on it if possible.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Joe:
> 
> 
> Glad to hear you're enjoying the set more and more. As others have said, setting the inputs you use to PRO and MONITOR make a huge difference. I also turn off VM on the inputs I use. Seeing DVDs on this set with a good quality DVD player is definitely worth it. Are you upscaling DVDs to 720p/1080i, or are you viewing them at 480i (or 480p if you have a progressive-scan DVD player)?
> 
> 
> As I had mentioned to you (and spurned to do it even more by Q's review), I am getting my 960 prefessionally calibrated this Fall. I am eager to see the improvement, especially in geometry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To everyone:
> 
> 
> Do you know what kind of video DAC the 960 uses? I'd like to get some information on it if possible.



Good question. I'm still trying to figure out what the story is on refresh rates with this set as well. Does it take everything and FORCE it to go at 60Hz no matter what, or does it actually allow up to 85Hz like I was let to believe when I connected my PC via DVI/HDMI cable?


----------



## Newport_Racer

I have a question on my XBR 960 and Letterboxed DVD's. I was watching my first DVD on the set, "Sideways" last night. The DVD is widescreen but I had black bars on both top and bottom of the picture. WHY? What do I need to do to get the DVD to fill the screen. The DVD player is a Sony and was set to Progressive Scan mode.


Thanks in advance


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Newport_Racer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a question on my XBR 960 and Letterboxed DVD's. I was watching my first DVD on the set, "Sideways" last night. The DVD is widescreen but I had black bars on both top and bottom of the picture. WHY? What do I need to do to get the DVD to fill the screen. The DVD player is a Sony and was set to Progressive Scan mode.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance



The DVD wasn't ANAMORHPIC widescreen. I had The Wild Bunch do that on me as well. I threw it to zoom and all was well. You'll run into this with older DVD's on occasion.


Make sure your DVD player is set to 16:9, just to double check.


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Newport_Racer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a question on my XBR 960 and Letterboxed DVD's. I was watching my first DVD on the set, "Sideways" last night. The DVD is widescreen but I had black bars on both top and bottom of the picture. WHY? What do I need to do to get the DVD to fill the screen. The DVD player is a Sony and was set to Progressive Scan mode.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance



Newport:


Make sure on your DVD player that you have it set to a widescreen TV (16:9) and NTSC.


On the 960, I have it set to not stretch anything that's 4:3 and to present 16:9 material as 16:9. This is set in the on-screen menu where there's options like Full, Horizontal Zoom, etc.


How wide are the bars on the top and bottom when you watch this DVD? Since the 960 is 1.78:1 and the Sideways DVD is 1.85:1, you may see very thin bars at the top and bottom due to 1.85:1 being wider than your set and it compensating for that.


Also are there bars on the left and right? If there are, that means your DVD player is not set up correctly for your 16:9 TV. You'll need to tell the DVD player you have a 16:9 TV.


----------



## Newport_Racer

The side bars are about the same size as the 4:3 broadcast, so that makes sense with what you said. I will check the unit set up as it was used on my old Mitsu 4:3 previously. I assumed (DUHH) that the unit would know it was connected to a 16:9 set. MY MISTAKE


THANKS!


----------



## Joseph Dubin




tennberg said:


> Joe:
> 
> 
> Glad to hear you're enjoying the set more and more. As others have said, setting the inputs you use to PRO and MONITOR make a huge difference. I also turn off VM on the inputs I use. Seeing DVDs on this set with a good quality DVD player is definitely worth it. Are you upscaling DVDs to 720p/1080i, or are you viewing them at 480i (or 480p if you have a progressive-scan DVD player)?
> 
> 
> As I had mentioned to you (and spurned to do it even more by Q's review), I am getting my 960 prefessionally calibrated this Fall. I am eager to see the improvement, especially in geometry.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Tenn,
> 
> 
> Do not have a progressive scan DVD player so for DVDs we have the 960 set to movie (picture mode), medium (clear edge), cinemotion (DRC) and default (color axis). Is it better to use interlaced in DRC?
> 
> 
> Joe


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Newport_Racer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The side bars are about the same size as the 4:3 broadcast, so that makes sense with what you said. I will check the unit set up as it was used on my old Mitsu 4:3 previously. I assumed (DUHH) that the unit would know it was connected to a 16:9 set. MY MISTAKE
> 
> 
> THANKS!



You give technology too much credit! 


Hopefully, that will fix everything and you'll be able to take full advantage of the 960.


Everyone else, do you notice any gaps between the two side slim light-silver side pieces on the front and the dark-gray pieces that contain the speakers? I was viewing my TV from a different angle tonight and noticed it. The gap on the right side is about 1mm wider than the gap on the left side. Is this common, or is my set falling apart? hehe


----------



## vid33nyc1

Wasup guys. I plan on upgrading to the 34XBR 960 from my 36XBR 800 because of the xbox 360 and the PS3 and im tired of those huge black bars on the top and bottom of the screen when playing my DVD movies.I was wondering if Sony is coming out with a new model after the 960.I noticed the price has went down on this set everywhere.Thanks.


----------



## vid33nyc1

Anyone know?help lol


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vid33nyc1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wasup guys. I plan on upgrading to the 34XBR 960 from my 36XBR 800 because of the xbox 360 and the PS3 and im tired of those huge black bars on the top and bottom of the screen when playing my DVD movies.I was wondering if Sony is coming out with a new model after the 960.I noticed the price has went down on this set everywhere.Thanks.



vid:


From what I understand, the 2004 CRT models were carried over into 2005, either with 1-2 subtractions or 1-2 additions. It may even not have been touched at all. Can someone confirm?


This is just a guess, but currently, the XBR960 is Sony's top-of-the-line direct-view HDTV CRT. I don't see Sony releaseing a model like the KD-34XBR980 or anything like that. Sony was pushing its other non-CRT options hard, and that got them into a lof of financial trouble when that technology plummeted in price.


I think the 960 is one of the last, if not THE last, direct-view CRTs we will see from Sony. I can picture people selling unboxed 960s on eBay in 5 years or so for outrageous prices.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> vid:
> 
> 
> From what I understand, the 2004 CRT models were carried over into 2005, either with 1-2 subtractions or 1-2 additions. It may even not have been touched at all. Can someone confirm?
> 
> 
> This is just a guess, but currently, the XBR960 is Sony's top-of-the-line direct-view HDTV CRT. I don't see Sony releaseing a model like the KD-34XBR980 or anything like that. Sony was pushing its other non-CRT options hard, and that got them into a lof of financial trouble when that technology plummeted in price.
> 
> 
> I think the 960 is one of the last, if not THE last, direct-view CRTs we will see from Sony. I can picture people selling unboxed 960s on eBay in 5 years or so for outrageous prices.



Hi Tenn,


If Sony was to come out with a new 34 inch xbr direct view set what could they do to improve upon the technology of the 960 other than cosmetic changes or an additional input? Since they were the only to offer a 40" direct-view 4x3 I can see them come out with a KD37XBR960 with a 37" 16X9 screen (RCA/Thompson did a few years ago but it was nowhere near the quality of the Sony and broke down easily).


Even at it's original $2.2 K price tag, the picture quality beat any plasma or LCD, whose big-screen sets went for at least $1,000 more. Those looking for not more than a 42" LCD or plasma might consider 5" less for a top of the line HDTV tube set.


Not being a member of Sony's marketing team, or having inside information, these are only guesses.


Joe


----------



## hancox




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I can picture people selling unboxed 960s on eBay in 5 years or so for outrageous prices.




That would do


----------



## vid33nyc1

Maybe they could add 1080p support.That could make it perfect.


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Tenn,
> 
> 
> If Sony was to come out with a new 34 inch xbr direct view set what could they do to improve upon the technology of the 960 other than cosmetic changes or an additional input? Since they were the only to offer a 40" direct-view 4x3 I can see them come out with a KD37XBR960 with a 37" 16X9 screen (RCA/Thompson did a few years ago but it was nowhere near the quality of the Sony and broke down easily).
> 
> 
> Even at it's original $2.2 K price tag, the picture quality beat any plasma or LCD, whose big-screen sets went for at least $1,000 more. Those looking for not more than a 42" LCD or plasma might consider 5" less for a top of the line HDTV tube set.
> 
> 
> Not being a member of Sony's marketing team, or having inside information, these are only guesses.
> 
> 
> Joe



Joe,


The largest 16:9 direct-view CRT I've seen is Sony's KV-HR36M91, which is only availble in the Middle East and Asia Pacific. It is a 36" 16:9 CRT set with Wega engine, though it is non-XBR. Interestingly enough, it weighs the same as the KD-34XBR960, which is 2" smaller - 194 lbs.

http://www.sony-mea.com/product_deta...InpProdId=5021 


This is just a guess: It is easier to make a 40" 4:3 tube than it is a 40" 16:9 tube. This is why you don't see 16:9 CRTs larger than 36". Plus, a 16:9 TV that large would probably weigh close to 300 pounds or more, making it nearly impractical.


If Sony were to include a follow-up model to the 34XBR960, which I highly doubt, the only improvements I could see are adding a DVI input and additional HDMI input and possibly adjusting the design a bit for better handling when moving or lifting.


I do think this is the last, great CRT we will see from Sony (or anyone for that matter). I am just hoping that in 5-7 years' time, a technology will have emerged that equals (or beats) CRT across the board.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I do think this is the last, great CRT we will see from Sony (or anyone for that matter). I am just hoping that in 5-7 years' time, a technology will have emerged that equals (or beats) CRT across the board.



Hi Tenn,


We might be a little bit selfish but hope by that time a technology would not have emerged that equals or beats CRT - we like knowing that for once we have a top of the line piece of equipment (except, of course, those priced for the rich and famous, LOL). People at the office look up to me now with a new-found respect!


- Joe


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Well, I guess one is never too old to find out how dumb they can be!


Got a replacement remote today and again could not get the toggle button to operate properly. Was very depressed and resigned to the fact that the set would need to be serviced until..... by accident I discovered one does not press the sides of the button but pushes them instead! Am sure the original remote worked just as well and therefore would not have needed to go back and forth to make adjustments. Now that I'm able make adjustments from my viewing position I was able to make more precise settings - especially in the advanced video clarity and detail selection.


My only excuse is that toggle buttons on my other devices are all touch sensitive.


Has anyone else made this same mistake at first?


Anybody seeing me right now would swear my facial tone is in the "default" position to emphasize red!


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Tenn,
> 
> 
> We might be a little bit selfish but hope by that time a technology would not have emerged that equals or beats CRT - we like knowing that for once we have a top of the line piece of equipment (except, of course, those priced for the rich and famous, LOL). People at the office look up to me now with a new-found respect!
> 
> 
> - Joe



Hey Joe,


Like any technology, CRT has its strengths, but it also has its drawbacks. I can think of three where others have CRT beat:


1. Screen size. Sure CRT beats others in terms of clarity and picture quality, but imagine that picture quality at 50", 60", or even larger. Picture watching the action scene from your favorite movie at that size. *wipes drool from mouth* This area goes to LCD, plasma, and projectors.


2. Geometry. The bane of CRT's existence has usually been screen geometry. Since you're dealing with magnets and electrons, obviously there are way too many factors involved in trying to get a perfectly square image. Sure, you can open up your CRT and move magnets around, voiding the warranty in the process. Will you ever get the image 100% corrected? Probably not. Again, praise to LCD and plasma.


3. Weight. The KD-34XBR960 weighs 194 lbs. The KD-40XBR800 weighed over 300 lbs. Sure, some may say once you place the TV, you're never going to need to move it. But what if you move to another apartment? Decide to redecorate? Want to clean under the set? Need to adjust some wires in the back easily? Unless you have several roommates who work out constantly, that CRT ain't going anywhere. Want to move that 50" plasma? Sure, easily done, it only weights 100 lbs.


As I've mentioned before, when taking into account *all* factors, CRT is the best technology. Could it be better? Absolutely. Give me a technology that has CRT's picture quality, LCD's weight, and plasma's screen size, and I'd be the happiest man alive. Do I think there will ever be such a technology? Absolutely. Will it be within 5 years? Probably not. Some may say you can get this level with the latest Runco projector and a 100" screen, but honestly, how many of us can drop $100K or more on that piece *and* have the room to put it in?


----------



## vid33nyc1

Since most of you say sony wont make a new model,i hope they dont discontinue the 960.They wouldnt do that would they?I sure hope not.This set still has great value.


----------



## JohnGZ28

I had my 960 calibrated a month ago and it keeps getting better. Best Buy is selling most of their superbit titles for $9.99 so I added a few more to my collection.


Quick side note on _my opinion_ of superbit titles. If a movie doesn't have a lot of color in it superbit doesn't do much for it. Titles like Men In Black, Bad Boys, Desperado don't benefit much from the superbit process. However titles like Spiderman 1 and 2, Fifth Element, Underworld...incredible.


I had Spider Man 1 and 2 in superbit prior to calibration, picked up Fifth Element and Underworld from BB post calibration.


The level of detail that I can see in these movies post calibration is fantastic. For the Spiderman titles I find may self saying, "where did that come from, it wasn't there before". I find myself second guessing was I really paying attention when I watched this before or is the picture that much more detailed.


I keep landing on the picture being that much more detailed.


If you have the money get the set calibrated.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had my 960 calibrated a month ago and it keeps getting better. Best Buy is selling most of their superbit titles for $9.99 so I added a few more to my collection.
> 
> 
> Quick side note on _my opinion_ of superbit titles. If a movie doesn't have a lot of color in it superbit doesn't do much for it. Titles like Men In Black, Bad Boys, Desperado don't benefit much from the superbit process. However titles like Spiderman 1 and 2, Fifth Element, Underworld...incredible.
> 
> 
> I had Spider Man 1 and 2 in superbit prior to calibration, picked up Fifth Element and Underworld from BB post calibration.
> 
> 
> The level of detail that I can see in these movies post calibration is fantastic. For the Spiderman titles I find may self saying, "where did that come from, it wasn't there before". I find myself second guessing was I really paying attention when I watched this before or is the picture that much more detailed.
> 
> 
> I keep landing on the picture being that much more detailed.
> 
> 
> If you have the money get the set calibrated.




Absolutely! 100 percent agreed!


----------



## Dark Rain




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vid33nyc1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since most of you say sony wont make a new model,i hope they dont discontinue the 960.They wouldnt do that would they?I sure hope not.This set still has great value.



I think Sony wants to get out of the CRT market. They abandoned CRT monitors for PCs about 3 years ago, and it won't be long before they pull the plug on their CRT TVs. Sony is pretty much putting most of their effort into LCDs and microdisplays:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=570096


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Joe,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I've mentioned before, when taking into account *all* factors, CRT is the best technology. Could it be better? Absolutely. Give me a technology that has CRT's picture quality, LCD's weight, and plasma's screen size, and I'd be the happiest man alive. Do I think there will ever be such a technology? Absolutely. Will it be within 5 years? Probably not. Some may say you can get this level with the latest Runco projector and a 100" screen, but honestly, how many of us can drop $100K or more on that piece *and* have the room to put it in?



Hi Tenn,


Was thinking more in terms of 30" to 37" inch screens. 40"+ would be too big for my eyeballs.


Plasma has to resolve the burn-in problem before it can actually eliminate need for CRT and due to it's phospher technology I've been told it's doubtful the burn-in issue can be resolved. LCD has improved tremendously but can the limited contrast/darkness be increased to match the rival plasma or CRT?


Going on past track records these improvements might not be close on the horizon. Burn-in has accompanied plasma since the format first hit the market more than a decade ago. Rear projection has improved leaps and bounds, however, the problem with viewing angle is the same as it was nearly a quarter-century ago.


You're right. A new technology will be developed that will eliminate Plasma, LCD, Rear Projection and CRT. Too bad we probably won't be around to see it LOL.


- Joe


----------



## txtravlr384




tennberg said:


> Joe,
> 
> 
> The largest 16:9 direct-view CRT I've seen is Sony's KV-HR36M91, which is only availble in the Middle East and Asia Pacific. It is a 36" 16:9 CRT set with Wega engine, though it is non-XBR. Interestingly enough, it weighs the same as the KD-34XBR960, which is 2" smaller - 194 lbs.
> 
> http://www.sony-mea.com/product_deta...InpProdId=5021
> 
> 
> Check those dimensions on that web page. When converted to inches, they are less than 0.3% off from the North American 34" set dimensions. Essentially, it is the same size tube and chassis. They are just advertising it as a 36" set like manufacturers here in the U.S. used to do (or still do?) with computer monitors and TV sets.


----------



## Bebpo

How do you switch between 480i and 960i on this TV?


----------



## WOLVERNOLE

As I've mentioned before, when taking into account *all* factors, CRT is the best technology. Could it be better? Absolutely. Give me a technology that has CRT's picture quality, LCD's weight, and plasma's screen size, and I'd be the happiest man alive. Do I think there will ever be such a technology? Absolutely. Will it be within 5 years? Probably not. Some may say you can get this level with the latest Runco projector and a 100" screen, but honestly, how many of us can drop $100K or more on that piece *and* have the room to put it in?[/quote]


HOW ABOUT SED or OLED ??? I have heard insane CR quotes...sharp...great geometry. Within a couple of years. As I understand it, Toshiba is moving "quickly" in the SED arena.


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WOLVERNOLE* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> HOW ABOUT SED or OLED ??? I have heard insane CR quotes...sharp...great geometry. Within a couple of years. As I understand it, Toshiba is moving "quickly" in the SED arena.



WOLV:


True, SED and OLED are two technologies that have shown a lot of promise, though only in prototypes.


The current issue with OLED (organic light-emitting diodes) is that it is only rated to last for 10,000 hours. In practice, that would prove disastrous in a TV, but it would be perfect for devices such as cell phones, portable game devices, and the like where display longevity is not a major selling point. I foresee OLED taking this route and not in TVs.


I don't think any currently-selling technology (LCD, plasma, etc.) will be the technology to surpass CRT, no matter how much technologically better they get.


The one real promising technology that could suprass CRT is SED (surface-conduction electron-emitting display). Basically, it's a CRT that's an inch thick. Electrons on the back surface are attracted to the front panel by a 10,000V potential. There's no deflection yoke, hence the thinness and the improved geometry, along with all the picture benefits of CRT.


The one drawback of SED is expected to be its price, which will be much more when compared to an LCD or plasma of equivalent size.


It's sad to see how consumers are driving the push for more LCDs and more plasmas (and driving the price down in the process) when those two technologies aren't that great. They both still have major flaws in terms of picture quality when compared to CRT. Are they getting better? Yes, they're better now then they were several years ago. However, they still look poor when compared to a CRT.


Hopefully, manufacturers will find a way to drive down the price of SED and be able to market its advantages over LCD and plasma. *crosses fingers*


----------



## Bebpo

ok, I'm having a new issue with my set. For the most part everything is perfect...but if I'm really close to the set (like within 3 feet) I can see 3 straight horizontal grey lines going all the way across the set.


One is about 15% down, one is a little below the middle, and one is about 15% up. So it's kinda like at the 2 points where the black bars show up on a 2.35.1 film and then one slightly below the middle.


It's a little scary to have these permanent lines showing up when I just got the TV yesterday but you can't see them after you get about 6 feet back so at least I'm not getting too scared.


I've moved things around to see if they had to do with magnetic shielding problems of the local dvd player/game systems but that doesn't seem to be it.


What's wrong with my set and is it fixable or do I need to live with this forever if I don't return the set?


Thanks,


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bebpo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ok, I'm having a new issue with my set. For the most part everything is perfect...but if I'm really close to the set (like within 3 feet) I can see 3 straight horizontal grey lines going all the way across the set.
> 
> 
> One is about 15% down, one is a little below the middle, and one is about 15% up. So it's kinda like at the 2 points where the black bars show up on a 2.35.1 film and then one slightly below the middle.
> 
> 
> It's a little scary to have these permanent lines showing up when I just got the TV yesterday but you can't see them after you get about 6 feet back so at least I'm not getting too scared.
> 
> 
> I've moved things around to see if they had to do with magnetic shielding problems of the local dvd player/game systems but that doesn't seem to be it.
> 
> 
> What's wrong with my set and is it fixable or do I need to live with this forever if I don't return the set?
> 
> 
> Thanks,



Bebpo:


These are the damper wires, which can be seen in practically any Sony Trinitron CRT set. I also have a Sony 19" computer monitor (in addition to the 960) and it has two damper wires going across horizontally.


Due to the 960's size, there need to be three damper wires for the aperture grill. These are normal, they should be there, and there is nothing you can do to make them disappear. Besides, you should not be sitting that close to the set.  Sit 6 to 8 feet away and all will be well.


----------



## Bebpo

Thanks. I guess I should just sit farther back and learn to ignore them. I can really only notice them on white backgrounds and even then it's faintly.


----------



## Bebpo

Is there a way to save different video settings for one input? I have PS2/Xbox/GC all running component into my reciever and then one component out from my reciever to my tv.


The problem is that each game system has a completely different black level/contrast/color balance! So after I painstakingly got all the settings perfect for the PS2 I switch to the xbox and it looks awful ^^;


I can do it the long lazy way by writing down all the numbers and redo-ing them each time I change systems but it'd be nice if there was a way for the tv to save various settings on one input.


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bebpo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there a way to save different video settings for one input? I have PS2/Xbox/GC all running component into my reciever and then one component out from my reciever to my tv.
> 
> 
> The problem is that each game system has a completely different black level/contrast/color balance! So after I painstakingly got all the settings perfect for the PS2 I switch to the xbox and it looks awful ^^;
> 
> 
> I can do it the long lazy way by writing down all the numbers and redo-ing them each time I change systems but it'd be nice if there was a way for the tv to save various settings on one input.



Bebpo:


Although the 960 can save a single video settings profile for each input, it cannot create multiple profiles for a single input.


The only way would either be to plug two of the game systems into each component input, and swap out one input for the third system when necessary, or to just keep changing the settings for the single component input every time.


This is just my opinion, but I hope the changes you make for each system are minor. I would think constantly making drastic changes in the brightness, contrast, and picture levels for a single component input would tend to put a lot of strain on the 960. It may not, but I tend to stick with a single profile and keep it that way.


----------



## Bebpo

Well the problem is that I'm gonna use one component for my HD Cable box in and the other for the receiver in (for game systems & pc->hdtv). Meanwhile I'm running my dvd player through the HDMI.


I guess you're just not supposed to own a lot of stuff as an HDTV owner ^^; I mean I'll never get why they have 5 inputs for regular video and only 2 for component despite it being an 'HD' TV.


Hmm, the PS2 and Xbox black levels are really different. About 10 digits apart :\\ Haven't tried GC yet but I don't even know how I'd calibrate that. With the PS2/Xbox I just stuck in the Avia disc and adjusted to the test patterns. Since Gamecube can't play dvds I'll just have to do it by eye I guess.


----------



## Bebpo

Actually, you know what is even stranger? I have two xbox systems; Jpn & US but I'm only using one set of video cables. So I just switch between the two when I play.


But when I was doing the adjustments I noticed that the systems had completely different video settings !? Even though the cable is the exact same, the US system had to have the brightness at around 31 whereas the Jpn system was around 42 for brightness.


Bizarre.


----------



## Yung

I did a search of this forum thread but couldn't find any info.


Given that a good number of AVRs being announced this year have HDMI switching and the announcment today of the availability of the HDMI 1.2 specification, I was wondering which version of HDMI is on the KD-XBR960?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Yung* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I did a search of this forum thread but couldn't find any info.
> 
> 
> Given that a good number of AVRs being announced this year have HDMI switching and the announcment today of the availability of the HDMI 1.2 specification, I was wondering which version of HDMI is on the KD-XBR960?



To my dismay, I'm sure it's NOT HDMI 1.2. And unless they can pull some trick via memory stick, I can't see anyway to upgrade it.


Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Yung* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I did a search of this forum thread but couldn't find any info.
> 
> 
> Given that a good number of AVRs being announced this year have HDMI switching and the announcment today of the availability of the HDMI 1.2 specification, I was wondering which version of HDMI is on the KD-XBR960?



Any links to this announcement?


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Any links to this announcement?



Nevermind, I found it.

http://www.hdmi.org/press/pr/pr_20050823.asp


----------



## tennberg

I think it might be possible to upgrade to the HDMI 1.2 revision. I have a Denon DVD-2910 DVD player, and one of the firmware upgrades upgraded the HDMI port to HDMI 1.1.


I guess it depends on whether the 1.2 revision requires new hardware (like USB 1.1 and USB 2.0) or whether it can simply be upgraded with sofware. Then the question is whether a Memory Stick upgrade could do it.


----------



## Yung

What is the current version of HDMI in the XBR960? 1.0 or 1.1?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think it might be possible to upgrade to the HDMI 1.2 revision. I have a Denon DVD-2910 DVD player, and one of the firmware upgrades upgraded the HDMI port to HDMI 1.1.
> 
> 
> I guess it depends on whether the 1.2 revision requires new hardware (like USB 1.1 and USB 2.0) or whether it can simply be upgraded with sofware. Then the question is whether a Memory Stick upgrade could do it.



Fascinating. Does anyone have the patience to attempt to contact Sony and see what they say about it?


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Fascinating. Does anyone have the patience to attempt to contact Sony and see what they say about it?



I don't. I remember calling Sony about 6 months ago because someone mentioned a software update (with a part number and all). The three people I spoke to at Sony knew nothing about it and said there were never any software or firmware udpates for the 960.


It's hard to believe that for such a compliated piece of equipment, there are no known updates. I have a Rotel pre-amp/processor and a Denon DVD player, and both have had several software and/or firmware udpates since I bought them both not 8 months ago.


----------



## pdroth

So can anyone tell me what the purpose of the GUIDE button is? On my set it just lists the next sequential channels but doesn't show any information.


----------



## Ladd

What's the size in inches of the XBR960 factory carton?


The weight of the full box is easily found, the size is proving more elusive.


One of the many factors in my trying to figure out if I'm going to purchase an XBR960 on-line or locally are my ability (or lack thereof) to get it home myself. As the selection of vehicles available to me to transport it is limited, knowing the size of the box is critical.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What's the size in inches of the XBR960 factory carton?
> 
> 
> The weight of the full box is easily found, the size is proving more elusive.
> 
> 
> One of the many factors in my trying to figure out if I'm going to purchase an XBR960 on-line or locally are my ability (or lack thereof) to get it home myself. As the selection of vehicles available to me to transport it is limited, knowing the size of the box is critical.



You can have local places like Circuit City, Best Buy, or Sears, or whoever, have it shipped and/or installed in your house for a minimal fee. Often times, you can haggle and negotiate that out. Recommended, regardless of how you get this TV. Don't try to do it by yourself. There's really no need for that.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What's the size in inches of the XBR960 factory carton?
> 
> 
> The weight of the full box is easily found, the size is proving more elusive.
> 
> 
> One of the many factors in my trying to figure out if I'm going to purchase an XBR960 on-line or locally are my ability (or lack thereof) to get it home myself. As the selection of vehicles available to me to transport it is limited, knowing the size of the box is critical.



Don't have the exact measurements of the box but it is about 6" wider and deeper than the TV. The big stryophome (sp?) things that hold it in place are pretty thick. Mine was delivered via pick-up truck from my local AV store. Don't think about driving it home in a car. Minivan or SUV with rear seat removed is needed.


----------



## tennberg

960 carton size: 31" x 30" x 44" (h x w x d)


I agree with Q. If you live alone, this is not the set to be picking up yourself and trying to unbox it and put it in place. I would recommend you get 2 strong friends to help you out.


When I bought this TV, delivery and set-up was included for about $20. It was brought to my apartment door in the box, it was unboxed in the hallway, and carried over to my stand. Highly recommended for this set.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pdroth* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So can anyone tell me what the purpose of the GUIDE button is? On my set it just lists the next sequential channels but doesn't show any information.



Use the guide button to preview channels. Your cable feed will determine how much program info you get. On mine I just call the letters: ESPN, CNN, TNT etc.


Hit the guide button and use the joystick to scroll up or down. The channel will change with each "click". After scrolling if you hit the guide button again it will take you back to the channel you were watching. If you push down on the joystick the tv will change to the channel you were previewing.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 960 carton size: 31" x 30" x 44" (h x w x d)
> 
> 
> I agree with Q. If you live alone, this is not the set to be picking up yourself and trying to unbox it and put it in place. I would recommend you get 2 strong friends to help you out.
> 
> 
> When I bought this TV, delivery and set-up was included for about $20. It was brought to my apartment door in the box, it was unboxed in the hallway, and carried over to my stand. Highly recommended for this set.



Add my voice against taking the set home yourself. For your own protection have the store be responsible for delivery (even if you and a friend have the strength to lift the set). For example, if it accidently tips against a wall and the screen cracks it is doubtful this would be covered under the warranty since the record will show you picked it up.


We also got delivery for free and just seven days after we placed the order. This included placing the set on the stand and discarding the bulky carton.


----------



## Fuzzyphi

I just recently got mine from a store 6 hrs away, so delivery wasn't an option. But the box fit pervectly in the back of my chevy tahoe with the 3rd row seats removed and the 2nd row laid down.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 960 carton size: 31" x 30" x 44" (h x w x d)



Thanks for the info.


Here's the deal -- a small TV store about 40 miles away sells the set for $1886 with tax, but there is no delivery available. I might be able to convince my brother-in-law to drive his late-model Chrysler mini-van for a round trip, giving us three humans to actually attempt unloading and carrying it 20 feet and three steps up to the living room. It's conceivable we won't hurt ourselves or the set.


Crutchfield.com wants a miniscule $14 more ($1900 with shipping) for their "white glove" set-it-up-in-my-living-room delivery service, which seems like a good deal if I'm feeling lucky that I WON'T hit the "jackpot" and have to exchange the set for another one if I get a (one out of N) lemon that some folks report having received. I figure it would be $200-250 to send it back.


Can't say I can think of any other Internet company that has the reputation and prices of Crutchfield, but one is still left with that nagging "but what if I have to return it" feeling in any case.


Of course there is the local Best Buy that sells the 960 for MSRP ($1995 with tax) but will deliver for free, or Circuit City which graciously tacks on a $40 delivery fee to its MSRP+tax price. So I get to pay more AND experience first-hand if their less-than-stellar reputations are deserved.


So, local purchase addresses some potential issues but comes at a cost; Internet purchase offers good customer service and price, but has an possible expensive downside. I'm sure I'm not inventing the wheel here -- every single reader of this discussion thread has gone through this analysis. Any advice folks wish to offer appreciated.


----------



## Yung




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info.
> 
> Of course there is the local Best Buy that sells the 960 for the $1995 MSRP but will deliver for free, or Circuit City which graciously tacks on a $40 delivery fee to its MSRP price. So I get to pay more AND experience first-hand if their less-than-stellar reputations are deserved..



MSRP on the xbr960 should be $1900. You can also order directly from Sonystyle.com for MSRP+tax, shipping is included. CC has sales occassionally, so you might be able to get it then. I got mine from CC last October for the same price it retails now, back then MSRP was $2200, plus Sony had some deal going so I got a free HTIB with it.


----------



## Lord Ace Man

Does anyone know if sony will be manufacturing slim tube tv like samsung. I really love this set, but don't think the weight has a chance on my entertainment unit.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lord Ace Man* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if sony will be manufacturing slim tube tv like samsung. I really love this set, but don't think the weight has a chance on my entertainment unit.



Doubt it. I think Sony's more or less done with the tube market, in terms of anything new.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Yung* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> MSRP on the xbr960 should be $1900



Unclear writing on my part, sorry. MSRP of $1900 + tax = $1995


Original post edited to improve clarity.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Unclear writing on my part, sorry. MSRP of $1900 + tax = $1995
> 
> 
> Original post edited to improve clarity.



Haggling and bargaining skills notwithstanding, at least if you go through a place like a Crutchfield, you can avoid tax and often times, even avoid the very reasonable $20 shipping/handling, and install fee.


That tax adds up right quick. Just something to consider.


----------



## Yung




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Unclear writing on my part, sorry. MSRP of $1900 + tax = $1995
> 
> 
> Original post edited to improve clarity.



Only 5% sales tax, lucky you! Here in NY, I had to pay 8.625% when I got my set last year. As Q of Banditz and others have noted here, you can save on tax and shipping from places like Crutchfield.


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Yung* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Only 5% sales tax, lucky you! Here in NY, I had to pay 8.625% when I got my set last year. As Q of Banditz and others have noted here, you can save on tax and shipping from places like Crutchfield.



Or, if your state has a sales tax-free day, you could buy it then.


I bought my 960 in August 2004 when Massachusetts was having a sales tax-free day. That day also coincided with a "private sale" that the store I bought it from was having. I got an additional 10% off on the price of the set. So, basically, it was 15% off.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Yung* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As Q of Banditz and others have noted here, you can save on tax and shipping from places like Crutchfield.



Crutchfield does sound good: $1900 delivered and set up in my living room. My ONLY concern about purchasing from Crutchfield (or any other online business) is the x% chance that I might have to exchange it because of some sort of problem. Return shipping would be a killer.


----------



## kidAtoZed

Hi all,


I've got a bit of a problem I'm hoping someone can help me with. I own an XBR960. I love it -- gorgeous picture, incredible contrast, all of it. Unfortunately, I'm on my second one. My first one had to be replaced after I moved. I was *incredibly* careful in moving it. I had about 8 people to help carry it. It really never got shaken or jostled. But when I arrived at my new place and plugged it in, there were noticeable convergence problems and the colors were all washed out. Luckily, it was still under warranty, so Sony replaced it. Now it looks like I might have to move again much much sooner than I had originally planned (but not soon enough to still have the TV under warranty). Does anyone have any tips/advice re: how not to screw up my TV when I move it? Is there anything in particular that I should avoid? Or is there any equipment that I might be able to rent that would help? Any ideas/suggestions would be much appreciated.


Thanks!


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Crutchfield does sound good: $1900 delivered and set up in my living room. My ONLY concern about purchasing from Crutchfield (or any other online business) is the x% chance that I might have to exchange it because of some sort of problem. Return shipping would be a killer.



30 days no questions asked with Crutchfield, No penalties. You will get a red carpet treatment that will truly shock you.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 30 days no questions asked with Crutchfield, No penalties. You will get a red carpet treatment that will truly shock you.



I understand that there are no penalties. But their normal "we pay return shipping" policy doesn't apply to large items such as the 34-XBR960. So if there was something wrong with the set that required an exchange, I would have to pay return shipping and that would run $200-250.


Unless there is something in the fine print that says they don't pay return shipping on large items that you simply don't want, but they DO pay return shipping on large items that are to be exchanged.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kidAtoZed* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Luckily, it was still under warranty, so Sony replaced it.



I'm curious as to how the Sony warranty repair/replace process works. Would you please describe it?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Crutchfield does sound good: $1900 delivered and set up in my living room. My ONLY concern about purchasing from Crutchfield (or any other online business) is the x% chance that I might have to exchange it because of some sort of problem. Return shipping would be a killer.



We all share your concern about having a heavy piece of equipment delivered only to find it is defective but even if the site you purchased it covered the return shipping cost, could it be repacked in a manner acceptable by the parcel service (the carton might be in too poor condition to reuse).


We purchased our KD34br960 through Crutchfield. Since the Sony is under a two-year in-home warranty if there was something wrong it would have been repaired or replaced (see post by KIDAtoZ as an example). If that was the case, it would have been upsetting but not unresolvable.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> We all share your concern about having a heavy piece of equipment delivered only to find it is defective but even if the site you purchased it covered the return shipping cost, could it be repacked in a manner acceptable by the parcel service (the carton might be in too poor condition to reuse).
> 
> 
> We purchased our KD34br960 through Crutchfield. Since the Sony is under a two-year in-home warranty if there was something wrong it would have been repaired or replaced (see post by KIDAtoZ as an example). If that was the case, it would have been upsetting but not unresolvable.



And none of it would require any muscle effort on your part whatsoever.


If you have a problem with your TV within 30 days, Crutchfield themselves sets up the return and exchange with the shipping company. You needn't lift a finger.


After that 30 days, inside of your warranties, more or less the same thing can happen, depending on what Sony decides first, and working your way out from there.


There's no way you can have a more worry free, easier situation.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There's no way you can have a more worry free, easier situation.



Thanks for the clarification!


While "you can't believe everything you read on the Internet", 7400+ postings here carries a lot of weight!










Especially when re-reading the Crutchfield guarantee page and it says: " Items delivered via Large Item Special Shipping are excluded from this [free return] offer, *but there is no charge for returning damaged or defective products regardless of size.* (emphasis added by me)


I agree that everything seems to be covered; the odds of me discovering something wrong that the Crutchfield and/or Sony folks would disagree with seem to be quite low.


----------



## Gecko85




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Although the 960 can save a single video settings profile for each input, it cannot create multiple profiles for a single input.



On a related note, does the 960 have direct input selection? I'm seriously considering upgrading from my Toshinba 34" to the Sony 960. (Just can't seem to get the Toshiba dialed in, even with the Digital Video Essentials DVD...)


Anyway, I'm currently running everything through the receiver, then component out to the TV. But, I plan to get a PS3, and will either run that to the second component in on the TV, or use HDMI. With the Toshiba (and easy macros on my remote), switching inputs is a snap thanks to direct input selection. My 11 year old Sony, though, requires my to cycle through the remotes, so I had to trick it by programming a channel up command to force it to the ANT input, then multiple presses of the input button to get where I want to go. It was a pain.


I'd love it if the 960 had direct input selection, but can't find it talked about anywhere in the product specs...


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gecko85* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyway, I'm currently running everything through the receiver, then component out to the TV. But, I plan to get a PS3, and will either run that to the second component in on the TV, or use HDMI. With the Toshiba (and easy macros on my remote), switching inputs is a snap thanks to direct input selection. My 11 year old Sony, though, requires my to cycle through the remotes, so I had to trick it by programming a channel up command to force it to the ANT input, then multiple presses of the input button to get where I want to go. It was a pain.
> 
> 
> I'd love it if the 960 had direct input selection, but can't find it talked about anywhere in the product specs...



Doesn't have a direct select button but you can "program" it to skip unused inputs. HDMI is video 7 you can have it skip 1-6 to take you right to 7 but if you have more stuff hooked up you may not want to skip over those inputs.


----------



## Gecko85




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Doesn't have a direct select button but you can "program" it to skip unused inputs. HDMI is video 7 you can have it skip 1-6 to take you right to 7 but if you have more stuff hooked up you may not want to skip over those inputs.



That helps a little, but still doesn't solve the problem. When programming a macro, I have no way of knowing what the LAST input used was. With direct selection, the macro's are easy: when switching to the PS3, switch to input 7. When switching to the DVD player, HD D*, etc...switch to input x (whatever component input I'm using.) The idea of cycling through makes programming macros very difficult, if not impossible. (Don't know if the CH+ trick still works...)


----------



## kidAtoZed




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm curious as to how the Sony warranty repair/replace process works. Would you please describe it?



It was pretty straightforward. They sent a TV repair tech to my house to look at the TV. He said he coudln't do anything to fix it. Sony brought me a new one and took away the busted one =). I think that's about as in-depth as I could go. Really, it was pretty painless.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gecko85* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That helps a little, but still doesn't solve the problem. When programming a macro, I have no way of knowing what the LAST input used was. With direct selection, the macro's are easy: when switching to the PS3, switch to input 7. When switching to the DVD player, HD D*, etc...switch to input x (whatever component input I'm using.) The idea of cycling through makes programming macros very difficult, if not impossible. (Don't know if the CH+ trick still works...)



Am not familiar with macro settings on the Toshiba but the KD34XBR960 retains the settings (which are numerous) for each of the seven inputs, so you do not have to worry about adjustments when switching between HDTV, DVD, Video Game or VHS.


----------



## Gecko85




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Am not familiar with macro settings on the Toshiba but the KD34XBR960 retains the settings (which are numerous) for each of the seven inputs, so you do not have to worry about adjustments when switching between HDTV, DVD, Video Game or VHS.



I'm referring to macros on my remote. For example:


macro 1: turn on TV, set input on TV to HDMI, turn on receiver, set input on receiver to the optical input from the D* box, make SAT the active devide (This would be, for example, to watch the HD D* box using HDMI connection)


macro 2: switch input on TV to component, switch receiver to optical input from the DVD player, turn on DVD player


etc...


The issue is with directly selecting the input on the TV. I just wich other manufacturers would allow direct selection. On the Toshiba (which I don't like as much as the Sony as far as PQ goes), I can send a discreet code in my remote macro to specifically select whatever input I want. With the Sony, I have to know what input I was ON, so I can CYCLE the proper number of times. Since this is impossible, I have to trick it by sending a channel up command (which puts it in antenna mode), then I know where I am from a starting point, and can send the proper number of input presses. This is a problem, because you get a flash of "snow" for a second as the TV goes into antenna mode, then several flashes depending on how many inputs you need to get through (for example, if HDMI is the second input, you go ANT, then Component, then HDMI...which a "flash" of the screen each time...)


----------



## LongRufus

The feature you are looking for is referred to as Discrete Input on most websites. There is no universal Sony XBR input code that you punch into your remote. The code is remote specific, so you search the forum for the brand of remote you are using. I generally use the forums at remotecentral.com, but there are others out there.


I don't use macros, so I don't know if the 960 supports them or not. A quick search here shows that the 40xbr800 does, so the 960 probably does too.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=492041 


Here's another link that may be helpful:

http://www.hifi-remote.com/sony/


----------



## Brad Smith

Hey everyone,


So nearly a month has gone by since my last update on the trailing issue, and I am in need of assistance/advice and any thoughts you may have.


For those familiar with the issue, skip this paragraph. For those who have not heard of it, I'll get you up to speed quickly on what the problem is. On any video input with any signal, there appears to be trails behind moving objects on the screen. The easiest spots to see this issue in is dark background, light foreground, fast motion, high-contrast scenes. Examples would be a hand/arm moving quickly across the screen, a panning shot with lights in it, etc. Another example is pretty much any moderately paced scrolling credits. While these scenes are the easiest to identify the issue in, they can be seen in less extreme circumstances and the effect is a blurring of the image in motion. When there are extremely slow or static images on the screen, the set is phenomenal. The only problem the TV is exhibiting is this trailing/ghosting issue.


Now for a bit of history...


This television initially had a CableCard problem, so the q-box was replaced (basically the box that has all the inputs and outputs plus the cablecard slot). That repair was not related to the trailing/ghosting issue.


I then began the process of dealing with the trailing issue in May. The service center ordered and installed a B/Y board (not sure if that's the right name, but basically it is a line doubler). The problem did not go away.


Approximately a month ago I contacted the servicer again to come out and look at the television again. He saw the problem, commented "wow, it's worse than I thought" and left to consult with Sony. More than a week later (after several back and forths), they called me and said that "Sony has determined your television is defective and this is not a repairable issue. You need to call Sony service to get your television replaced." They gave me the phone number and I did as I was told...


I called Sony, and they claimed I needed an event ID. The servicer didn't give me one. We tried looking it up via serial number. No luck. Then phone number. No luck. Then servicer. No luck. After 30 minutes, they found my television, but only had documentation on the q-box replacement. I outlined the whole situation to them, they created a new event ID, and I was told I would receive a call-back within 24-48 hours.


The next day I got an e-mail that said 24-48 hours again, pushing it back a day. When the 48 hours elapsed, still no call back. To save you the blow-by-blow of the next three weeks, let me summarize:

- I was promised at least 12 different callbacks throughout this process, most of which with the 24-48 hour stipulation. Not even once did I actually receive a callback. Not even a late callback. I never received a promised call back.

- They claimed the servicer would not answer their phones for over two weeks.

- They then claimed the servicer would not talk to them about my television.

- They then claimed there was no record of the findings of the servicer. Rinse and repeat above steps.

- All of this time I was calling to talk to the servicer, who claimed they can see all of their notes attached to my television and event id in Sony's system. In addition, they *never received a call from Sony*.

- Finally, last week, the CS agent (level 2) finally agreed to try calling the servicer herself. She then claimed that the servicer said there was no problem with my television, and that they hadn't even seen the problem. Of course, a quick call to the servicer reveals another side of the story... Sony was the one who flip-floped. They just told them what they saw on the television.

- I spoke to a CS supervisor, and was stonewalled.


So at that point, over the course of three weeks, over 8 hours on hold, no callbacks, etc. etc., Sony flip-flopped from "This TV is defective" to "This TV is operating normally." My only recourse now was through the retailer who sold it to me...


I went into the retailer, explained the situation, explained to them that I did not see it in their floor model and they agreed to replace the television with their warranty company (thank goodness for extended warranty plans).


The television was delivered yesterday, but they refused to give me the manual. I don't know the serial number and manufactured date until I pull the unit back out from the wall. I turned it on, set all the normal setting you change (Pro and Monitor) and let it sit on Discovery HD for a couple hours to get the set warmed up. Then came the moment of truth: toss in a reference DVD I was using to test the issue and....

*Same problem! GRRRRR!*


So now my questions are as follows:

1) This is a popular television among calibrators. If this is "normal" for this set, I'd think it would not be popular among them. They are likely more visually picky than I am. Can anyone speak to this?

2) I've only seen *one* note other than my own of this issue in the nearly 70 pages of posts here in this thread. Has anyone else seen it? (refer to the scene examples earlier in this post for reference material ideas -- I have used Star Wars, Battlestar Gallactica, 24, The West Wing, and more...)

3) What are my options now?


This has been my worst customer experience ever, and while I love this television, I am having major second thoughts.


I appreciate any and all advice or thoughts all of you could provide.


Thanks and best regards,

Brad


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Smith* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> 
> So nearly a month has gone by since my last update on the trailing issue, and I am in need of assistance/advice and any thoughts you may have.
> 
> 
> For those familiar with the issue, skip this paragraph. For those who have not heard of it, I'll get you up to speed quickly on what the problem is. On any video input with any signal, there appears to be trails behind moving objects on the screen. The easiest spots to see this issue in is dark background, light foreground, fast motion, high-contrast scenes. Examples would be a hand/arm moving quickly across the screen, a panning shot with lights in it, etc. Another example is pretty much any moderately paced scrolling credits. While these scenes are the easiest to identify the issue in, they can be seen in less extreme circumstances and the effect is a blurring of the image in motion. When there are extremely slow or static images on the screen, the set is phenomenal. The only problem the TV is exhibiting is this trailing/ghosting issue.
> 
> 
> Now for a bit of history...
> 
> 
> This television initially had a CableCard problem, so the q-box was replaced (basically the box that has all the inputs and outputs plus the cablecard slot). That repair was not related to the trailing/ghosting issue.
> 
> 
> I then began the process of dealing with the trailing issue in May. The service center ordered and installed a B/Y board (not sure if that's the right name, but basically it is a line doubler). The problem did not go away.
> 
> 
> Approximately a month ago I contacted the servicer again to come out and look at the television again. He saw the problem, commented "wow, it's worse than I thought" and left to consult with Sony. More than a week later (after several back and forths), they called me and said that "Sony has determined your television is defective and this is not a repairable issue. You need to call Sony service to get your television replaced." They gave me the phone number and I did as I was told...
> 
> 
> I called Sony, and they claimed I needed an event ID. The servicer didn't give me one. We tried looking it up via serial number. No luck. Then phone number. No luck. Then servicer. No luck. After 30 minutes, they found my television, but only had documentation on the q-box replacement. I outlined the whole situation to them, they created a new event ID, and I was told I would receive a call-back within 24-48 hours.
> 
> 
> The next day I got an e-mail that said 24-48 hours again, pushing it back a day. When the 48 hours elapsed, still no call back. To save you the blow-by-blow of the next three weeks, let me summarize:
> 
> - I was promised at least 12 different callbacks throughout this process, most of which with the 24-48 hour stipulation. Not even once did I actually receive a callback. Not even a late callback. I never received a promised call back.
> 
> - They claimed the servicer would not answer their phones for over two weeks.
> 
> - They then claimed the servicer would not talk to them about my television.
> 
> - They then claimed there was no record of the findings of the servicer. Rinse and repeat above steps.
> 
> - All of this time I was calling to talk to the servicer, who claimed they can see all of their notes attached to my television and event id in Sony's system. In addition, they *never received a call from Sony*.
> 
> - Finally, last week, the CS agent (level 2) finally agreed to try calling the servicer herself. She then claimed that the servicer said there was no problem with my television, and that they hadn't even seen the problem. Of course, a quick call to the servicer reveals another side of the story... Sony was the one who flip-floped. They just told them what they saw on the television.
> 
> - I spoke to a CS supervisor, and was stonewalled.
> 
> 
> So at that point, over the course of three weeks, over 8 hours on hold, no callbacks, etc. etc., Sony flip-flopped from "This TV is defective" to "This TV is operating normally." My only recourse now was through the retailer who sold it to me...
> 
> 
> I went into the retailer, explained the situation, explained to them that I did not see it in their floor model and they agreed to replace the television with their warranty company (thank goodness for extended warranty plans).
> 
> 
> The television was delivered yesterday, but they refused to give me the manual. I don't know the serial number and manufactured date until I pull the unit back out from the wall. I turned it on, set all the normal setting you change (Pro and Monitor) and let it sit on Discovery HD for a couple hours to get the set warmed up. Then came the moment of truth: toss in a reference DVD I was using to test the issue and....
> 
> *Same problem! GRRRRR!*
> 
> 
> So now my questions are as follows:
> 
> 1) This is a popular television among calibrators. If this is "normal" for this set, I'd think it would not be popular among them. They are likely more visually picky than I am. Can anyone speak to this?
> 
> 2) I've only seen *one* note other than my own of this issue in the nearly 70 pages of posts here in this thread. Has anyone else seen it? (refer to the scene examples earlier in this post for reference material ideas -- I have used Star Wars, Battlestar Gallactica, 24, The West Wing, and more...)
> 
> 3) What are my options now?
> 
> 
> This has been my worst customer experience ever, and while I love this television, I am having major second thoughts.
> 
> 
> I appreciate any and all advice or thoughts all of you could provide.
> 
> 
> Thanks and best regards,
> 
> Brad



Brad:


Few questions:


1. Is this ghosting only evident on DVDs, or do you also see it through your cable box or CableCard?


2. If it's only on DVDs, have you made sure the cable connections between your DVD player and TV are secure? If it's component cables, have you made sure they're lined up with the right connectors?


3. Are you using a progressive scan DVD player? Is it set on or off?


It seems a bit odd that 2 960s would have the same exact problem. Is there a chance you could get a test DVD player and a different set of cables?


Also, are there any strong magnetic sources near your TV? If you use external speakers, are they at least 6-8" away from any side of the set.


Let me know.


----------



## Gecko85

I've now officially exchanged the Toshiba 34HS85 and upgraded to the Sony 960. Now, I'm trying to decide if I should spring for an upconverting DVD player. All I can tell from the DVD Player forum is that improved PQ will "depend on if the upconverting DVD player does a better job of upconverting than your TV does." This doesn't really help me, though, so I thought I'd ask those with the same TV:


Do any of you have experience using upconverting DVD players with the Sony 960?

Can you notice an imporoved PQ, or does the Sony seem to do just as good a job of converting?


I'm currently using a Panasonic DVD Recorder with component cables. I'm considering a Toshiba upconverting DVD player with HDMI.


Opinions welcomed...


----------



## Brad Smith

Tennberg,



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Brad:
> 
> 1. Is this ghosting only evident on DVDs, or do you also see it through your cable box or CableCard?



The ghosting is available on any input (1-7) or tuner with any source (cablecard, DVR, DVD, Receiver, Computer, etc.).



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 2. If it's only on DVDs, have you made sure the cable connections between your DVD player and TV are secure? If it's component cables, have you made sure they're lined up with the right connectors?



The connections have been triple checked, unplugged and replugged, etc.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 3. Are you using a progressive scan DVD player? Is it set on or off?



Yes, I am using an upscaling DVD player that is progressive as well. Unfortunately that should be the issue considering it happens on all inputs.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there a chance you could get a test DVD player and a different set of cables?



It has been tested with two different DVD players.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Also, are there any strong magnetic sources near your TV? If you use external speakers, are they at least 6-8" away from any side of the set.



I do have an external speaker sitting on top of the television, but I tested before putting it back on. At the time of the test all speakers were at least 5 feet away from the television.


----------



## pdroth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gecko85* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'd love it if the 960 had direct input selection, but can't find it talked about anywhere in the product specs...



I have a Harmony remote and with it you can program activities which will switch the input on the 960 directly. It's called a discrete code and although the factory remote doesn't support it, the television accepts a code for direct selection of input.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gecko85* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've now officially exchanged the Toshiba 34HS85 and upgraded to the Sony 960. Now, I'm trying to decide if I should spring for an upconverting DVD player. All I can tell from the DVD Player forum is that improved PQ will "depend on if the upconverting DVD player does a better job of upconverting than your TV does." This doesn't really help me, though, so I thought I'd ask those with the same TV:
> 
> 
> Do any of you have experience using upconverting DVD players with the Sony 960?
> 
> Can you notice an imporoved PQ, or does the Sony seem to do just as good a job of converting?
> 
> 
> I'm currently using a Panasonic DVD Recorder with component cables. I'm considering a Toshiba upconverting DVD player with HDMI.
> 
> 
> Opinions welcomed...




Hi Gecko,


From what I understand, a progressive scan DVD player is not necessary since the KD34xbr960 does the same. For us it did eliminate the distortion viewed on our old analog set when the picture moved with certain horizontal or vertical objects (venitian blinds, bricks, etc.) in the background (similar to the early problems of pinstripe shirts seen on television).


If you plan to get a DVD player with HDMI output does that mean you will use component cables for the HDTV signal? From my comparision the HDMI gave a slightly better PQ than component (using the same settings). However, this might have been my eyes playing tricks on me. Since DVDs have less resolution than HD signals using the HDMI input for DVD might be overkill.


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Smith* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tennberg,
> 
> 
> 
> The ghosting is available on any input (1-7) or tuner with any source (cablecard, DVR, DVD, Receiver, Computer, etc.).
> 
> 
> 
> The connections have been triple checked, unplugged and replugged, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I am using an upscaling DVD player that is progressive as well. Unfortunately that should be the issue considering it happens on all inputs.
> 
> 
> 
> It has been tested with two different DVD players.
> 
> 
> 
> I do have an external speaker sitting on top of the television, but I tested before putting it back on. At the time of the test all speakers were at least 5 feet away from the television.



Brad:


Can you think of anything else within your setup that has remained constant with the two 960s you've tried? As I said before, I find it odd that two 960s would both have the same issue.


I am on my second 960, as the first 960 developed a dead spot in the center of the screen, about 1 millimeter square, that had no color or anything. It was completely black. Since it was within 30 days, Tweeter came by and gave me a brand new 960. I also purchased a 5 year warranty through Tweeter.


If you don't get anywhere with Sony or your retailer, you could contact the Better Business Bureau in your area and discuss the problem with them. I have used the BBB for an unrelated issue (incorrect item on my credit report) and they were hugely successful in helping me to resolve my issue. Maybe there are lemon laws in your area that would help. I just don't hope you get a third set and it has the same issue. At that point, it would seem like it's something in your environment causing the issue.


P.S. - Any chance both 960s were dropped before delivery? Were the boxes intact with no marks or dents?


----------



## Brad Smith




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can you think of anything else within your setup that has remained constant with the two 960s you've tried? As I said before, I find it odd that two 960s would both have the same issue.



Hmm. Not that immediately comes to mind. The power in my apartment is really the only thing. I can't imagine there'd be something wrong with *every* device I hook up to the TV for signal.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> P.S. - Any chance both 960s were dropped before delivery? Were the boxes intact with no marks or dents?



The only thing I can think of right now is the store where i bought it from is in a metal warehouse, and I get no cell phone reception in there. I can't imagine simply storing the TV there would cause problems, but I guess it could.


I'm going to try to go back tonight or tomorrow with a DVD player and DVD and try to check the problem.


Brad


----------



## njt

Hmmm hard to imagine two seperate units display the same defect. Even if they were from the same warehouse, the time lag between deliveries would likely mean they were from different shipments. The serial number is different, right?










I wonder if this is just one of the factors that is normal with the set and you are just more tuned into it. I appreciate your (and everyone else's) commets, though as I am geting close to decision time (5-10 days). I'll be following this issue closely as I imagine it would impact a lot of my viewing (particularly a white baseball tracking across a night sky or motion against stadium night lights.


----------



## halster16

Well, I bought an XBR960 from Best Buy on 8/12 before I read this discussion thread. Had I read this first, it might have given me pause. Here's what I found after connecting a DVD player via component video and an SD satellite receiver via s-video:


1) The SD DirecTV images look terrible, much less detail and clarity than my 10 year old 32 Sony. This was even after changing the picture mode from Vivid to Pro, turning down the picture control and playing with the DRC. The colors are bright and vibrant and the picture does have more depth than my 32, but this is all overshadowed by the digital artifacts and outlines.


2) DVD performance was somewhat better, but still not what I had expected from a $2000 direct-view television.


3) Screen geometry is very poor in both the upper left-hand corner with sagging horizontal lines and the on the vertical boundaries of the 4:3 image where there is a noticable pin cushion effect. Maybe this could be corrected via the Service Menu and maybe not.


4) All of the above appeared to be par for the course, judging by previous entries. That was until I after about 30 minutes of operation, I noticed yellow horizontal bands moving up and down the screen. This would come and go and occurred regardless of the input source. I tried everything I could think of to isolate a cause of interference, but found nothing. I contacted Sony's product support and was told there was no adjustment that could be made that would eliminate the yellow banding.


I've already called Best Buy to schedule a return pickup. As a result of my experience and after reading all of the previous posts, I will not be exchanging this for another XBR. Even if I get lucky and get a good one out of the box next time, I would still worry about future problems and the prospect of having to haul this monster up a flight of stairs myself to get it out of my house. This is probably the last Sony TV I'll buy. Even my 32, which although has a great picture, had the tuner go out after only three years.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hmmm hard to imagine two seperate units display the same defect. Even if they were from the same warehouse, the time lag between deliveries would likely mean they were from different shipments. The serial number is different, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder if this is just one of the factors that is normal with the set and you are just more tuned into it. I appreciate your (and everyone else's) commets, though as I am geting close to decision time (5-10 days). I'll be following this issue closely as I imagine it would impact a lot of my viewing (particularly a white baseball tracking across a night sky or motion against stadium night lights.



I've never seen any picture flaws on my XBR960, especially after getting it calibrated.


----------



## njt

Thanks Q. Your comments on the 960 and ISF calibration are really appreciated. Whichever set I go with, I can be sure of one thing... this will be the most informed purchase I've ever made.


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *halster16* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I bought an XBR960 from Best Buy on 8/12 before I read this discussion thread. Had I read this first, it might have given me pause. Here's what I found after connecting a DVD player via component video and an SD satellite receiver via s-video:
> 
> 
> 1) The SD DirecTV images look terrible, much less detail and clarity than my 10 year old 32 Sony. This was even after changing the picture mode from Vivid to Pro, turning down the picture control and playing with the DRC. The colors are bright and vibrant and the picture does have more depth than my 32, but this is all overshadowed by the digital artifacts and outlines.
> 
> 
> 2) DVD performance was somewhat better, but still not what I had expected from a $2000 direct-view television.
> 
> 
> 3) Screen geometry is very poor in both the upper left-hand corner with sagging horizontal lines and the on the vertical boundaries of the 4:3 image where there is a noticable pin cushion effect. Maybe this could be corrected via the Service Menu and maybe not.
> 
> 
> 4) All of the above appeared to be par for the course, judging by previous entries. That was until I after about 30 minutes of operation, I noticed yellow horizontal bands moving up and down the screen. This would come and go and occurred regardless of the input source. I tried everything I could think of to isolate a cause of interference, but found nothing. I contacted Sony's product support and was told there was no adjustment that could be made that would eliminate the yellow banding.
> 
> 
> I've already called Best Buy to schedule a return pickup. As a result of my experience and after reading all of the previous posts, I will not be exchanging this for another XBR. Even if I get lucky and get a good one out of the box next time, I would still worry about future problems and the prospect of having to haul this monster up a flight of stairs myself to get it out of my house. This is probably the last Sony TV I'll buy. Even my 32, which although has a great picture, had the tuner go out after only three years.



halster16:


I'm sad to hear you had such a bad experience with the 960. When I got my first 960, it was fine up until I noticed a tiny dead spot near the center of the screen, about 1 millimeter square. It had no color, brightness, etc.


Since it was within so many days, I was able to exchange it for another 960. Granted, this 960 has not yet been calibrated nor had a magnetic adjustment. However, I am sure once both are done, I will have an amazing set.


A couple of notes regarding your experience:


1. In my experience, this set was designed to show HD material (1080i/720p) or DVD material (480p/720p/1080i) through the component or HDMI inputs. It was not desgined to make analog or digital TV look great, nor anything through composite or S-video. If you wanted those to look good, I would've gone with a 4:3 CRT.


2. I'm curious if you had gotten a professional calibration of the set if your experience would've been different. I think the picture on this set is the best out there on any set, whether it's CRT, LCD, plasma, DLP, rear projection, or whatever else there is.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Q. Your comments on the 960 and ISF calibration are really appreciated. Whichever set I go with, I can be sure of one thing... this will be the most informed purchase I've ever made.



Gven the state of the overall market and everything, this is the closet thing to a "sure bet" I've seen, in terms of a display and performance/value for your dollar, unless you really just need a huge screen.


Good luck!


----------



## halster16

Tennberg:


I appreciate your comments and I too am disappointed that this TV didn't work out. While not an expert on video displays, I did a fair amount of research before buying the 960 and did not find any information (until reading this thread) that stated how poor non-HDTV performance would be. It seems to me that this needs to be better communicated to the consumer since most of us will not be viewing the majority of our programming in HDTV for at least a while. I ordered an HDTV antenna and am waiting for it to arrive, so I never got a chance to see what this set can do with HDTV. I'm sure it's impressive.


With regard to professional calibration; maybe this would have solved some of my problems, but again, people need to be made aware that if they buy this TV, they may have to shell out another couple of hundred dollars to get it to perform properly. This should only be necessary to maximize the performance, not to get an acceptable picture on a new set.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *halster16* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tennberg:
> 
> 
> I appreciate your comments and I too am disappointed that this TV didn't work out. While not an expert on video displays, I did a fair amount of research before buying the 960 and did not find any information (until reading this thread) that stated how poor non-HDTV performance would be. It seems to me that this needs to be better communicated to the consumer since most of us will not be viewing the majority of our programming in HDTV for at least a while. I ordered an HDTV antenna and am waiting for it to arrive, so I never got a chance to see what this set can do with HDTV. I'm sure it's impressive.
> 
> 
> With regard to professional calibration; maybe this would have solved some of my problems, but again, people need to be made aware that if they buy this TV, they may have to shell out another couple of hundred dollars to get it to perform properly. This should only be necessary to maximize the performance, not to get an acceptable picture on a new set.



You're right, and what you say applies to all sorts of displays, not just this one. I've been following your case here and you truly have had some of THE damndest of bad luck I think I've ever seen. I'm real sorry.


----------



## Gecko85




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You're right, and what you say applies to all sorts of displays, not just this one. I've been following your case here and you truly have had some of THE damndest of bad luck I think I've ever seen. I'm real sorry.



I agree...the problems with SD picture quality relates to ANY 16x9 tv, whether it be CRT, LCD, Plasma, etc. It's not a Sony issue, or even a XBR960 issue...it's a 16x9 HD tv trying to show 4x3 content issue.


For what it's worth, even though I had done tons of my own research, when I went to purchase my first 16x9 set, the salesperson at Best Buy asked me if I watch a lot of TV, and how much of it would be HD content. He warned me that non-HD content wouldn't look as good as my current set (27" Sony 4x3), all of which I already knew, but at least he did his part by explaining it again.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gecko85* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I agree...the problems with SD picture quality relates to ANY 16x9 tv, whether it be CRT, LCD, Plasma, etc. It's not a Sony issue, or even a XBR960 issue...it's a 16x9 HD tv trying to show 4x3 content issue.
> 
> 
> For what it's worth, even though I had done tons of my own research, when I went to purchase my first 16x9 set, the salesperson at Best Buy asked me if I watch a lot of TV, and how much of it would be HD content. He warned me that non-HD content wouldn't look as good as my current set (27" Sony 4x3), all of which I already knew, but at least he did his part by explaining it again.



That's a very fair point. If I take a 4:3 signal and stretch it out over the 16X9 screen, I'm definitely taking a little bit of a PQ hit vs. if I keep the 4:3 picture in default mode, with the pillar box bars.


This phenomoneon is unavoidable if you stretch 4:3 material on any 16X9 TV.


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's a very fair point. If I take a 4:3 signal and stretch it out over the 16X9 screen, I'm definitely taking a little bit of a PQ hit vs. if I keep the 4:3 picture in default mode, with the pillar box bars.
> 
> 
> This phenomoneon is unavoidable if you stretch 4:3 material on any 16X9 TV.



What is the consensus around here on using the stretch modes for 4X3 SD material? I personally can't stand the distortion and always use the default mode with the pillar boxes. Am I really risking burn-in? I've had my 960 about a month now and was pleasantly surprised by the PQ of analog SD content. I find it more than acceptable and have no problems using the pillarboxes as long as I'm not doing any long term damage to my screen. Are there any warning signs for the beginnings of burn-in that I should be looking out for? Any thoughts from more experienced 960 users would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LongRufus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What is the consensus around here on using the stretch modes for 4X3 SD material? I personally can't stand the distortion and always use the default mode with the pillar boxes. Am I really risking burn-in? I've had my 960 about a month now and was pleasantly surprised by the PQ of analog SD content. I find it more than acceptable and have no problems using the pillarboxes as long as I'm not doing any long term damage to my screen. Are there any warning signs for the beginnings of burn-in that I should be looking out for? Any thoughts from more experienced 960 users would be greatly appreciated.




If you don't have the TV in torch mode, I think your risk of burn-in is low to none on a CRT tube, especially a nice one like this.


Personally, I use the 960's Full and especially Wide Zoom mode and I'm VERY pleased with it. It's about as well implemented a stretch mode as you're going to see anywhere, really. I use full for videogames and Wide Zoom for SD TV.


If you want to stay in pillar box, you can and probably not worry about it, as long as your contrast and brightness aren't set at insane heights.


----------



## Gecko85




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LongRufus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What is the consensus around here on using the stretch modes for 4X3 SD material? I personally can't stand the distortion and always use the default mode with the pillar boxes. Am I really risking burn-in? I've had my 960 about a month now and was pleasantly surprised by the PQ of analog SD content. I find it more than acceptable and have no problems using the pillarboxes as long as I'm not doing any long term damage to my screen. Are there any warning signs for the beginnings of burn-in that I should be looking out for? Any thoughts from more experienced 960 users would be greatly appreciated.



I became used to the "stretched" content rather quickly. It really doesn't bother me...but I know some people that hate it. Just a matter of preference. Since my old TV was only 27", I'm actually still getting a bigger picture if I went 4:3 with pillarboxes on the 34" set...but for me, it's psychological: I want as much of my screen used as possible.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gecko85* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I became used to the "stretched" content rather quickly. It really doesn't bother me...but I know some people that hate it. Just a matter of preference. Since my old TV was only 27", I'm actually still getting a bigger picture if I went 4:3 with pillarboxes on the 34" set...but for me, it's psychological: I want as much of my screen used as possible.



Exactly how I feel about it. I came from a 27, and then a 32 inch 4:3 set myself.


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LongRufus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What is the consensus around here on using the stretch modes for 4X3 SD material? I personally can't stand the distortion and always use the default mode with the pillar boxes. Am I really risking burn-in? I've had my 960 about a month now and was pleasantly surprised by the PQ of analog SD content. I find it more than acceptable and have no problems using the pillarboxes as long as I'm not doing any long term damage to my screen. Are there any warning signs for the beginnings of burn-in that I should be looking out for? Any thoughts from more experienced 960 users would be greatly appreciated.



Personally, I can't *stand* stretch mode. If the content was originally shown as 4:3, it should be viewed as 4:3. Also my take on movies: Pass over the full screen/pan & scan version. The director intended the movie to be widescreen, so view it that way, even if you only have a 4:3 set and it will be letterboxed. Some people say you don't notice the distortion or that you get used to it. Honestly, how can you not notice that the picture is 33% wider with no vertical adjustment? People's heads look wider, text is distorted and so on.


Couple things about this:


1. Whenever I've had Comcast over for any technical issues with my cable, they would see that I had 4:3 content set to not stretch and they'd wonder why the heck I left it that way. Some would even try to change the setting without me noticing, as if having a 16:9 set meant you had to watch everything at that aspect ratio.


2. When my parents got their HD set and they started watching SD channels on it, they wondered why it wasn't filling the whole screen. They thought if they were getting a 16:9 set, everything would fill up the screen. I showed them the stretch mode and they hated it. Guess it runs in the family


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you don't have the TV in torch mode, I think your risk of burn-in is low to none on a CRT tube, especially a nice one like this.
> 
> 
> Personally, I use the 960's Full and especially Wide Zoom mode and I'm VERY pleased with it. It's about as well implemented a stretch mode as you're going to see anywhere, really. I use full for videogames and Wide Zoom for SD TV.
> 
> 
> If you want to stay in pillar box, you can and probably not worry about it, as long as your contrast and brightness aren't set at insane heights.



I'm very satisfied with the picture quality of non HD transmissions especially if viewed through the HDMI (video 7) input. It is an improvement over a very good Toshiba 32" 4x3 that now sits in the bedroom. While the picture is smaller than the 32" set it was well worth the trade-off.


I have two thoughts why some might feel the 960 doesn't display non-HD signals so well.


1) It might be wishful thinking but is it because we are so floored by the purity of HD and DVD we now notice more the limitations of standard video signals?


2) It is still being viewed through the cable box. We have a hybrid-splitter (which doesn't degrade the quality of the signal when split) to view non-scrambled signals in twin-view. We noticed an improved picture through Sony's built-in tuner (using a coaxil feed) compared to the same signal through the box's S-video output. It might be best to use the cable-card option and Sony's own cable tuner in lieu of a box (if interactive programming is not a necessity).


We also prefer the wide-stretch mode despite the downgrade in picture quality. Of course, stretch-mode is only available through a non-HD input so we have to view programs through the cable box's S-video ouput (not as good as component or HDMI).


Being able to store settings individually the adjustments for our standard (S) video, coaxial feed, VCR and DVD vary from than those for HD. We made these while in stretch mode.


Our only regret is that cable cards are currently only one-directional because we know digital and analog signals would be improved even more if fed directly into the set's superior tuner. We do not know if there is a difference in HD quality with a card and coaxil feed versus a box and HDMI wire.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

One note regarding the above: we didn't make our settings for DVD in the wide-stretch mode.


----------



## hancox




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Of course, stretch-mode is only available through a non-HD input so we have to view programs through the cable box's S-video ouput (not as good as component or HDMI).



Not to be a snob, but...


Of course, that's 100% hogwash










The stretch modes aren't available to HD SIGNALS, has nothing to do with input. My HD-Tivo can pass 480i over HDMI, and the 960 can do it's normal SD stretching to it without a problem...


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hancox* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not to be a snob, but...
> 
> 
> Of course, that's 100% hogwash
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stretch modes aren't available to HD SIGNALS, has nothing to do with input. My HD-Tivo can pass 480i over HDMI, and the 960 can do it's normal SD stretching to it without a problem...



Wide Stretch Mode is not an option using Video 7 - only provided are zoom, horizontal and vertical stretches.


----------



## Brad Smith

An update on my television issues...


I will be taking a DVD player and DVD into the local retailer tomorrow to run some more extensive tests on the display model and to lobby for YANU (yet-another-new-unit). Tonight while watching the football game on ESPN, I discovered another problem. The CableCard drops out all digital channels randomly and must be reset. This happens about once every two hours. This is another problem with the TV, and I know that because I had my qbox in my last set repaired for this very same issue back in March. So it would seem I really have pretty much the exact same set... exact same problems.


Will update you all with my findings tomorrow.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Smith* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> An update on my television issues...
> 
> 
> I will be taking a DVD player and DVD into the local retailer tomorrow to run some more extensive tests on the display model and to lobby for YANU (yet-another-new-unit). Tonight while watching the football game on ESPN, I discovered another problem. The CableCard drops out all digital channels randomly and must be reset. This happens about once every two hours. This is another problem with the TV, and I know that because I had my qbox in my last set repaired for this very same issue back in March. So it would seem I really have pretty much the exact same set... exact same problems.
> 
> 
> Will update you all with my findings tomorrow.



I tell ya. I've read enough around this forum by now to be almost spooked away from cable cards.


Good luck! Keep us posted.


----------



## Brad Smith

And, btw, for all of you out there who are considering this television, don't let my problems spook you away from purchasing this set. I truly believe I have just got two lemons in a row. This model is one amazing television, and without-a-doubt the best choice for the money.


And Q: Thanks for the encouragement. I'm definitely not giving up until I get a good set delivered.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Smith* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> And, btw, for all of you out there who are considering this television, don't let my problems spook you away from purchasing this set. I truly believe I have just got two lemons in a row. This model is one amazing television, and without-a-doubt the best choice for the money.
> 
> 
> And Q: Thanks for the encouragement. I'm definitely not giving up until I get a good set delivered.



You definitely got lemons. This isn't normal.


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Smith* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> An update on my television issues...
> 
> 
> I will be taking a DVD player and DVD into the local retailer tomorrow to run some more extensive tests on the display model and to lobby for YANU (yet-another-new-unit). Tonight while watching the football game on ESPN, I discovered another problem. The CableCard drops out all digital channels randomly and must be reset. This happens about once every two hours. This is another problem with the TV, and I know that because I had my qbox in my last set repaired for this very same issue back in March. So it would seem I really have pretty much the exact same set... exact same problems.
> 
> 
> Will update you all with my findings tomorrow.



Brad:


Do you just use a CableCard or do you also have a cable box? I just use an HD DVR cable box and I couldn't live without out. I too have avoided CableCard as there is no way to use OnDemand, PPV, and it would be too weird to have a DVR set up in addition to the card.


One thing you might want to confirm with your cable company is if the card is compatible with the 960 and if the CableCard has the latest firmware on it. I know in reading other threads that CableCard issues were resolved with a simple firmware update.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Brad:
> 
> 
> Do you just use a CableCard or do you also have a cable box? I just use an HD DVR cable box and I couldn't live without out. I too have avoided CableCard as there is no way to use OnDemand, PPV, and it would be too weird to have a DVR set up in addition to the card.
> 
> 
> One thing you might want to confirm with your cable company is if the card is compatible with the 960 and if the CableCard has the latest firmware on it. I know in reading other threads that CableCard issues were resolved with a simple firmware update.



Yes!


And I'd easily give the evil eye to the Cable Card first before I would the TV.


----------



## Brad Smith

tennberg,


I use both a CableCard and a HD DVR. The CableCard provides for better quality compared to the HD DVR's tuner, so I only use the DVR for recording or quick guide look-ups.


I do know for sure that I have the latest firmware on the CableCard, and that it is compatible with my model. In fact, the local Time Warner offices bought the exact same set to do all of their CableCard testing.


Since I had this same problem before, and replacing the qbox fixed it, I assume that the same problem is plaguing this set as well.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Smith* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> And, btw, for all of you out there who are considering this television, don't let my problems spook you away from purchasing this set. I truly believe I have just got two lemons in a row. This model is one amazing television, and without-a-doubt the best choice for the money.
> 
> 
> And Q: Thanks for the encouragement. I'm definitely not giving up until I get a good set delivered.



Hi Brad,


We're also very sorry to read of the problems you've encountered with both sets but for somebody unable to enjoy 960 and still praise it shows a lot of class!


Am sure this bad experience will end when you receive number three. Let us know.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

What is the best method to clean he 960's TV screen?


On other sets we had used a liquid cleaner (i.e., Glass Plus) with paper towels to dry them (done with the power off). With the Sony we're only using a dry dust rag until learning the safest way to keep the flat screen pristine clean.


Thanks in advance for any advice anyone can offer.


----------



## Gecko85

My 34XBR960 was delivered today! I've noticed a couple things, though, and couldn't find anything in the settings...


When I turn on the TV, I get an on-screen display in the upper and lower left. Upper left is the video mode (Video 5/DVD), lower left is the screen mode (Screen Mode: Full.) This stays on the screen for 15 seconds (which feels like about 15 MINUTES...) The only thing I could find in the Menu was a setting for "Info Banner", which I have set to Off. How do I keep this on-screen info from displaying every time I turn on the TV? Or, at the very least, make it go away after a second or two? I've never seen any TV keep info on the screen that long...15 seconds is an eternity.


Also, is it normal for it to take a long time to show a picture when first turned on? The Toshiba 34HF85 I just returned would come on almost instantly, and show a picture about a second (2 at the most) after pressing Power. The Sony stays dark for a good 5-8 seconds before showing a picture. My HD Sat/DVR is always on, so I know that's not it...Is this normal for this set?


Thanks...


BTW, I immediately noticed a difference in PQ from the Toshiba. I've only made minor adjustments (will calibrate after 50 hours of use), but the difference is striking. Much more clarity, more realistic colors (even after I calibrated the Toshiba with the DVE DVD), and an overall sharper image. I think I'm going to be very happy with this set once I figure it out...


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What is the best method to clean he 960's TV screen?
> 
> 
> On other sets we had used a liquid cleaner (i.e., Glass Plus) with paper towels to dry them (done with the power off). With the Sony we're only using a dry dust rag until learning the safest way to keep the flat screen pristine clean.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for any advice anyone can offer.



Joseph:


I've had the set for almost 11 months now and have simply been taking the softest cloth possible and dragging it across the screen lightly to remove any bit of dust. SInce it's a vertical surface, it really doesn't need cleaning.


I've only noticed some dust build-up at the bottom of the screen where it meets the plastic housing. I simply use the same cloth to wipe off this dust or I use a can of compressed air to blow the dust away.


The screen does have a coating on it so any excessive rubbing will wear it off and make it that much worse. I'm sure that isn't covered under warranty.


----------



## zaratoga

Sorry but what's the main difference beetween this TV and Sony 36XS955 ?


Is the XBR able to correctly handle 576i from a PAL/SECAM ignal ?


Regards


Zar


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zaratoga* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry but what's the main difference beetween this TV and Sony 36XS955 ?
> 
> 
> Is the XBR able to correctly handle 576i from a PAL/SECAM ignal ?
> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> 
> Zar




I can't answer your PAL/SECAM question, but the differences between the 960 and 955 are listed here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=481457


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Joseph:
> 
> 
> I've had the set for almost 11 months now and have simply been taking the softest cloth possible and dragging it across the screen lightly to remove any bit of dust. SInce it's a vertical surface, it really doesn't need cleaning.
> 
> 
> I've only noticed some dust build-up at the bottom of the screen where it meets the plastic housing. I simply use the same cloth to wipe off this dust or I use a can of compressed air to blow the dust away.
> 
> 
> The screen does have a coating on it so any excessive rubbing will wear it off and make it that much worse. I'm sure that isn't covered under warranty.



Hi Tenn,


Thanks for the feedback and info about the set's protective coating. I'll continue with soft dust cloth.


Joe


----------



## LongRufus

There are screen cleaning products out there that say they won't damage protective coatings. Monster cable actually has a product called Monster Screen Clean. I got it about 5 years ago for my 36"SD Wega. It did a decent job for me, although I haven't used it on my 960 yet.


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gecko85* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> When I turn on the TV, I get an on-screen display in the upper and lower left. Upper left is the video mode (Video 5/DVD), lower left is the screen mode (Screen Mode: Full.) This stays on the screen for 15 seconds (which feels like about 15 MINUTES...) The only thing I could find in the Menu was a setting for "Info Banner", which I have set to Off. How do I keep this on-screen info from displaying every time I turn on the TV? Or, at the very least, make it go away after a second or two? I've never seen any TV keep info on the screen that long...15 seconds is an eternity.




This bugs me too. The only solution I have found is to quickly press the Display button on the remote twice. The OSD also stays up a bit too long for my taste when you switch inputs. The display button trick works there too.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LongRufus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gecko85* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> When I turn on the TV, I get an on-screen display in the upper and lower left. Upper left is the video mode (Video 5/DVD), lower left is the screen mode (Screen Mode: Full.) *This stays on the screen for 15 seconds (which feels like about 15 MINUTES...)* The only thing I could find in the Menu was a setting for "Info Banner", which I have set to Off. How do I keep this on-screen info from displaying every time I turn on the TV? Or, at the very least, make it go away after a second or two? I've never seen any TV keep info on the screen that long...15 seconds is an eternity
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bugs me too. The only solution I have found is to quickly press the Display button on the remote twice. The OSD also stays up a bit too long for my taste when you switch inputs. The display button trick works there too.
Click to expand...


If a 15 second "banner" is all you can find to nitpick about on a TV...you're doing pretty good.







Have a _little_ patience...


----------



## Jon S

This Sony is a NTSC only set, it cannot handle PAL signals....


----------



## Bitwize

Well, I just broke down and bought a 960. Still trying to get rid of my 55xs955, but I couldn't wait any longer.


I purchased the 960 at a local home furnishings store and talked them down to $1649. Considering their floor model was going for $1799, I assume a new one for $1649 is a great deal










My good friend is going to do an ISF calibration in the near future. I can't wait to see the picture after that.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bitwize* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I just broke down and bought a 960. Still trying to get rid of my 55xs955, but I couldn't wait any longer.
> 
> 
> I purchased the 960 at a local home furnishings store and talked them down to $1649. Considering their floor model was going for $1799, I assume a new one for $1649 is a great deal



You assume VERY correctly!


















> Quote:
> My good friend is going to do an ISF calibration in the near future. I can't wait to see the picture after that.



This will be you:


----------



## Gecko85

I'm intrigued by this Twin View thing...How would this work with an HD D* DVR? I've got 2 satellite lines plus the off-air antenna line going in to the back of the HD DVR. I believe the receiver is required in order to change channels, etc...Is Twin View even possible with satellite?


Very confused...


----------



## hancox

Guys - posting this here because I know a bunch of us use the magiker stand from IKEA...


Anyone else have bowing at all of the top board (Where the tv sits)?


Mine seems to have a slight dip, nothing that I'm overly concerned about, but let's just say I get squeamish when my son plays within the shadow of the tv...


Anyone else see this? I could post a photo, if need be...


----------



## Ladd

You guys will love this question; so foolish, yet so necessary.


How far apart, left to right and front to back, are the feet on the XBR960?


I'm trying to determine if the set will physically fit on top of my current TV stand; I don't mind if the set hangs over the edges, but obviously the feet have to fit on the top of the stand. I can find on the net the exterior dimensions of the set itself, but not the distances between the feet ...


----------



## LongRufus

There are basically 3 pads the tv rests on, 2 front, 1 back. The front of the tv is exactly 39" wide. The depth is 21.5". The back of my TV hangs off by 1.5". If the top of your stand is 40" X 20" you will be fine.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> There are basically 3 pads the tv rests on, 2 front, 1 back. The front of the tv is exactly 39" wide.



I read from online specs that the TV cabinet is 39 1/8 wide. Are you saying that the front foot pads are at the extreme left/right/front of the set? I was hoping that they might be inset a few inches, perhaps with the speakers overhanging outside the front feet.




> Quote:
> The depth is 21.5".



This is the distance from the front pads to the rear pad?


----------



## Tom Parker

Well, as luck would have it, I live within 3 miles of the fabled tinkerer Ken Tech. I invited him over to fiddle with the Service Mode settings of my 960. WOW!


The key was getting gray scale right. There actually were only a handful of service mode adjustments after that, but what a difference. I thought it was good before, although not great. This set is riveting to watch now, especially with DVD material.


Keep your eye out for his posts on this set and Sony Service mode. He knows of what he writes.


Thanks Ken!!


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I read from online specs that the TV cabinet is 39 1/8 wide. Are you saying that the front foot pads are at the extreme left/right/front of the set? I was hoping that they might be inset a few inches, perhaps with the speakers overhanging outside the front feet.
> 
> 
> 
> This is the distance from the front pads to the rear pad?



It's really hard to explain the shape of this TV. You would get a much better idea by going to sonystyle.com and taking the 360 tour. You will need to install the Viewpoint media player though, and it only supports IE. It won't work on Mozilla/Firefox.


The bottom line is that the front of the TV is 39" wide, and the full 39'' needs to be supported. The back rests on a single 4"X4" pad, centered on the TV. My stand is only 20" deep, and about 1.5" hang off the back unsupported. IMO, the absolute minimum requirements for a stand to hold this TV would be 39'' wide x 19" deep.


What are the dimensions of your current stand?


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LongRufus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> IMO, the absolute minimum requirements for a stand to hold this TV would be 39'' wide x 19" deep. What are the dimensions of your current stand?



Less than that, unfortunately. While my current stand is rated for 250 pounds, it is only 35.5" wide by 18.5" deep.


As noted previously, I had been hoping that the 960's feet were inset a bit, as are the feet on my older Sony XBR2. I'm not overly concerned about any parts of the set hanging out over the edge of the stand, but having the feet actually on the stand would be nice!


An unanticipated setback -- I've pretty much used up all my credibility convincing my lovely bride to grudgingly agree to the expense of purchasing the set itself; having to casually mention that we'll need another couple of hundred for a stand is going to be awkward. I was saving whatever karma I had left for the ISF calibration a couple of months down the road.


I suppose I could get an appropriately sized piece of 1.25" plywood, paint it black and bolt it onto the top of the current stand.


----------



## LongRufus

Sorry to hear it won't work with your current stand. If it helps any, I absolutely love the stand I got at CC. It's on sale now for $149 on their website:

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Z-Lin...oductDetail.do 


I bought it only as a temporary solution, but it turns out that it looks great with the 960 on it and is extremely sturdy. I couldn't be happier with it. Good luck.


----------



## 5TANGER

Is this TV really capable of displaying video in progressive scan mode?


If so, should I invest in a progressive scan DVD player? Is it worth it? And what's a good entry level progressive scan player?


----------



## 5TANGER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LongRufus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry to hear it won't work with your current stand. If it helps any, I absolutely love the stand I got at CC. It's on sale now for $149 on their website:
> 
> http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Z-Lin...oductDetail.do
> 
> 
> I bought it only as a temporary solution, but it turns out that it looks great with the 960 on it and is extremely sturdy. I couldn't be happier with it. Good luck.



I got that same stand as an open box item for $129. It was flawless, so I couldn't pass it up.


----------



## Yung




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *5TANGER* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I got that same stand as an open box item for $129. It was flawless, so I couldn't pass it up.



That stand looks like it was designed after the Bell'O AVS-2102 stand. I have the AVS-2103 which adds an extra shelf and it works fine.


----------



## Gecko85




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LongRufus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There are basically 3 pads the tv rests on, 2 front, 1 back. The front of the tv is exactly 39" wide. The depth is 21.5". The back of my TV hangs off by 1.5". If the top of your stand is 40" X 20" you will be fine.



The very front is 39", but the widest part (the furthest point on the front bezel) is 39 1/8", so for anyone trying to fit this set in an entertainment center as opposed to a stand, keep that in mind.


I looked high and low for a relatively small entertainment center with a wide enough hole for the TV, and actually found 2 different ones at Best Buy. Here's the one I got:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1077627709022 


(Don't listen to the description...it fits the 34XBR960 great. the center section is 41" wide, so there's about an inch on either side of the TV. Works great! The shelves on either side of the TV are glass, and ajustbable.


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *5TANGER* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is this TV really capable of displaying video in progressive scan mode?
> 
> 
> If so, should I invest in a progressive scan DVD player? Is it worth it? And what's a good entry level progressive scan player?



The 960 does accept progressive scan signals(480p). Whether you should upgrade or not depends on your personal preference. For me, even though I have PS players, I configure them to pass 480i to the 960. I find I can tweak the picture better using the upconverter on the 960 than the dvd players. If you pass 480p to the 960, the DRC functions and a few of the stretch modes are disabled. One reason you may want to upgrade is if your players connection options aren't up to date. You will get the best results from your DVD's if you use component or HDMI connections over S-video or RCA connectors. If you current player has component, you can probably wait for the new Blu-ray/HD-DVD players next year.


If you do decide you need to upgrade now, I have been keeping an eye on the new HDMI player Sony is coming out with shortly. It's the NS70H and it will cost around $150, which is on the low end for HDMI. There are a couple of threads about it on the DVD Forum if you want to do some reading. Good luck.


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gecko85* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The very front is 39", but the widest part (the furthest point on the front bezel) is 39 1/8", so for anyone trying to fit this set in an entertainment center as opposed to a stand, keep that in mind.
> 
> 
> I looked high and low for a relatively small entertainment center with a wide enough hole for the TV, and actually found 2 different ones at Best Buy. Here's the one I got:
> 
> http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1077627709022
> 
> 
> (Don't listen to the description...it fits the 34XBR960 great. the center section is 41" wide, so there's about an inch on either side of the TV. Works great! The shelves on either side of the TV are glass, and ajustbable.



That Viewpoint 360 Tour on the sonystyle.com site will let you flip the image upside down and let you see the exact footprint the set requires. Pretty damn cool, IMO.


----------



## 5TANGER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LongRufus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you current player has component, you can probably wait for the new Blu-ray/HD-DVD players next year.
> 
> 
> If you do decide you need to upgrade now, I have been keeping an eye on the new HDMI player Sony is coming out with shortly. It's the NS70H and it will cost around $150, which is on the low end for HDMI. There are a couple of threads about it on the DVD Forum if you want to do some reading. Good luck.



My current DVD player is an Apex unit. Does that say anything about picture quality? It has component out, and this is how I connected it to the 960.


Sad thing about the HDMI is that my only port is going to be used up by the Comcast cable box. Is HDMI any better than component? Should I use the component out on the HD cable box instead of the DVI->HDMI and use the HDMI on the TV for the DVD?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *5TANGER* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My current DVD player is an Apex unit. Does that say anything about picture quality?



Yes. Apex is a brand I see for


----------



## hancox




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hancox* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Guys - posting this here because I know a bunch of us use the magiker stand from IKEA...
> 
> 
> Anyone else have bowing at all of the top board (Where the tv sits)?
> 
> 
> Mine seems to have a slight dip, nothing that I'm overly concerned about, but let's just say I get squeamish when my son plays within the shadow of the tv...
> 
> 
> Anyone else see this? I could post a photo, if need be...




Bumping, as I know people have this, damnit!


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *5TANGER* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My current DVD player is an Apex unit. Does that say anything about picture quality? It has component out, and this is how I connected it to the 960.



Apex is a budget player. I have similar players(cyberhome, phillips) and I think they do a damn fine job on the 960. If you are happy with the picture on your current player, I'd stick with it until BR/HD-DVD players come out next year.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *5TANGER* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sad thing about the HDMI is that my only port is going to be used up by the Comcast cable box. Is HDMI any better than component? Should I use the component out on the HD cable box instead of the DVI->HDMI and use the HDMI on the TV for the DVD?



HDMI is an all digital connection. Component is a high bandwith connection, but it is still analog. So yes, HDMI is better than component. The question you need to ask yourself is will you notice the difference, and if you do, is it worth the $100-$300 cost of upgrading your player to HDMI.


----------



## 5TANGER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes. Apex is a brand I see for


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *5TANGER* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You must have misunderstood me. The Apex has composite and component - NO HDMI.. And it's OK if you don't like the Apex... neither do I. Hehe. I got it a long time ago because it was cheap and it had mp3 capabilities (but it sucks for playing mp3s, so I never used it for that), and it plays any disc I throw at it (burned media). I want to replace it, but I'm not sure if I really need another SD DVD player or if I am better off saving $$$ for the HD DVD players.
> 
> 
> In case you still need to know, it's a 2 year old model that has component video out, optical/spdif audio out but NO progressive scan. I was under the impression that it had progressive, but it turns out it doesn't.
> 
> 
> BTW, I read your thread about the ISF calibration. Good stuff!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to find someone around the Bay Area to come fix my TV. I think there's a problem with most (if not all) of the 960's. Last week a friend of mine bought one and in 4:3 mode the left side of the picture is somewhat slanted. Mine has a similar defect, but it's on both sides and to a lesser degree. I assume an ISF guy would be able to correct that?
> 
> 
> 
> Well, at this point I don't think it's worth spending $100-$300 just for the HDMI, but there's the Sony NS50 for $79 (without upconvert features). Would that have a better picture quality than the Apex? In any case, I doubt that I will be able to afford a $1000 BR/HD DVD player when they come out next year, so I'll probably have to keep my SD player for a while longer.




DEFINITELY let the XBR960 carry the load. Thanks for the clarification.










I will tempt you with this: DVD isn't going anywhere, anytime soon. The new formats have yet to settle out and HD-DVD has been delayed, etc. etc.


Personally, my attitude is: I want to enjoy the best NOW as well. I own an Onkyo DV-sp1000. Connected via HDMI to the 960, and I kid you not, most of my DVD's look HD-like.


Now, certainly that's not cheap and I'm not saying you SHOULD spend that much, but if you wanted to treat yourself right, and wanted an APPRECIABLE upgrade that you'd enjoy for years to come, for both video AND audio concerns...consider a nice universal player well past $200.


There's no reason you should stay with el-cheapo and deprive yourself, as funds allow, of course.


----------



## 5TANGER

You mean to do the upconverting?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *5TANGER* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You mean to do the upconverting?



See lengthy edit. Yes.


----------



## 5TANGER

LOL, okay... I'll consider it. Thanks.


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> DEFINITELY let the XBR960 carry the load. Thanks for the clarification.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will tempt you with this: DVD isn't going anywhere, anytime soon. The new formats have yet to settle out and HD-DVD has been delayed, etc. etc.
> 
> 
> Personally, my attitude is: I want to enjoy the best NOW as well. I own an Onkyo DV-sp1000. Connected via HDMI to the 960, and I kid you not, most of my DVD's look HD-like.
> 
> 
> Now, certainly that's not cheap and I'm not saying you SHOULD spend that much, but if you wanted to treat yourself right, and wanted an APPRECIABLE upgrade that you'd enjoy for years to come, for both video AND audio concerns...consider a nice universal player well past $200.
> 
> 
> There's no reason you should stay with el-cheapo and deprive yourself, as funds allow, of course.



Q:


I wouldn't say any DVD player under $200 is "el cheapo" and depriving one's self. If you've ever read the Progressive Scan Shootout on HomeTheaterHiFi.com, there are two DVD players at about $200 each, the Oppo Digital OPDV971H and the Panasonic DVD-S77, that rate *higher* than the Onkyo DV-SP1000 (~$2000).


Granted, neither are full universal players. However, it shows that you can get a very high quality player for not a lot of money.


As for the future of DVD, both the Blu-Ray and HD-DVD specs have been finalized, and players are expected in the first half of 2006. A couple manufacturers have already made plans for universal HD-DVD/Blu-Ray, and there is still hope that a single format will be made before these players hit the market.


Oh, though there's still the hitch about whether or not to allow full 720p/1080i resolution over component or not. Right now, full HD quality will only be realized over DVR or HDMI, so those of you who bought first-generation HD sets are currently out of luck.


Luckily, the 960 does have an HDMI input, though I wish it had 2.


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *5TANGER* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Well, at this point I don't think it's worth spending $100-$300 just for the HDMI, but there's the Sony NS50 for $79 (without upconvert features). Would that have a better picture quality than the Apex? In any case, I doubt that I will be able to afford a $1000 BR/HD DVD player when they come out next year, so I'll probably have to keep my SD player for a while longer.



I am basically in the same boat as you are and have been looking at DVD players for a couple of weeks now. I have to say that the DVD forum wasn't very helpful. You do see a few players recommended over the rest(oppo, pan. s77, s97), but you see just as many posts reporting problems with them(macroblocking, BTB's). Some people have had good luck with the hdmi samsungs, but again, you see just as many people bitching about what crap they are. I have no problem spending $200 for a good HDMI player, but the impression I got over there was that whatever brand you pick, it's going to be a crapshoot whether you get a "good one" or not. I personally didn't want to go through the hassle of returning 2 or 3 players until I found that "good one". I had all but made up my mind to just go out and get the ns50 for $80, when I saw the threads about the new 70 & 90 hdmi models. They are just now being released, although no one is shipping them yet. The 70 fits right in my price range at $150. So I am going to wait a few weeks and see how the reviews are on the 70 before I make my final decision.


----------



## Mike3

My issue with the cable card (Aside from the tough the cable company had configuring it to actually work) is that it forces the TV to use the digital simulcasts which means I can no longer view these digital programs on the right side of the twin view. That's important because you may be watching an HD or digital device on the left side and may only be limited to a few analogs. Comcast only let's 5 or 6 analogs get though the cable card. If I eject the cable card, I can watch any channel's analog version on the right and every channel has one with the exception of the digital tier stuff.


----------



## baller99

Why is it people are apprehensive about going with 480p over 480i dvd players? Isn't it unanimous that progressive scan offers a better image?


----------



## Gecko85




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LongRufus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You do see a few players recommended over the rest(oppo, pan. s77, s97), but you see just as many posts reporting problems with them(macroblocking, BTB's).



Keep in mind, the number of people coming to these forums is a VERY small sample size, and the majority of the people posting are doing so because they have an issue/problem. If someone buys a great DVD player, and has no problems with it, they probably won't ever FIND this forum.


----------



## Moegames




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gecko85* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Keep in mind, the number of people coming to these forums is a VERY small sample size, and the majority of the people posting are doing so because they have an issue/problem. If someone buys a great DVD player, and has no problems with it, they probably won't ever FIND this forum.



Thats so true and is something many dont think about


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gecko85* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Keep in mind, the number of people coming to these forums is a VERY small sample size, and the majority of the people posting are doing so because they have an issue/problem. If someone buys a great DVD player, and has no problems with it, they probably won't ever FIND this forum.



Wow, someone who has been here a whole month is giving me advice on how to use these forums. Must be my lucky day










Seriously though, I wasn't talking about all the forums here, in most forums you do need to take peoples' gripes/complaints with a grain of salt. I was specifically talking about the DVD player forum where the majority of the posts these days are shootouts/brain dumps/debates over the relative pluses and minuses of upconverting HDMI players. These threads are very detailed and in depth and give exact specs on what each player can and cannot do. Paul Bigelow's brain dumps are an amazing source of info into each players' strengths and weaknesses. The only problem is, after an hour or so of sifting through these posts, they leave you more confused than when you started. It was a great learning experience, but it was also a bit of information overload. Seeing all of a players' potential pitfalls all lined up in one neat list makes you wonder if upgrading is even worth it. Who wants to spend $200 on a new player, only to have a new set of potential problems crop up. That was the point I was trying to get across in my earlier post, sorry if I was unclear.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> ... The only problem is, after an hour or so of sifting through these posts, they leave you more confused than when you started.



Reminds me of the last time I tried to analyze cell phone plans, coverages and phone performance.


----------



## 5TANGER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Q:
> 
> 
> I wouldn't say any DVD player under $200 is "el cheapo" and depriving one's self. If you've ever read the Progressive Scan Shootout on HomeTheaterHiFi.com, there are two DVD players at about $200 each, the Oppo Digital OPDV971H and the Panasonic DVD-S77, that rate *higher* than the Onkyo DV-SP1000 (~$2000).



This is what someone wrote on Amazon.com in a review of the Oppo Digital player: "Produced great picture quality, but the remote is awful and the user interface is really, really bad. It upscales well and shows very little macroblocking for a Farouja chip machine, but I returned it in favor of the Sony offering."


What is the Sony equivalent (supporting DivX/XviD)?


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *5TANGER* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is what someone wrote on Amazon.com in a review of the Oppo Digital player: "Produced great picture quality, but the remote is awful and the user interface is really, really bad. It upscales well and shows very little macroblocking for a Farouja chip machine, but I returned it in favor of the Sony offering."
> 
> 
> What is the Sony equivalent (supporting DivX/XviD)?



The sony 975 is generally compared to the oppo. Don't know if it does divx or xvid. The new 70h and 90v have just been released and are also HDMI players.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Q:
> 
> 
> I wouldn't say any DVD player under $200 is "el cheapo" and depriving one's self. If you've ever read the Progressive Scan Shootout on HomeTheaterHiFi.com, there are two DVD players at about $200 each, the Oppo Digital OPDV971H and the Panasonic DVD-S77, that rate *higher* than the Onkyo DV-SP1000 (~$2000).



Ridiculous.



> Quote:
> Granted, neither are full universal players. However, it shows that you can get a very high quality player for not a lot of money.



The Oppo and the Panasonic units, are not a peers, let alone superior, to an Onkyo 1000, a Pioneer 59, a Denon 3910, or a Denon 5910. Not even close.


At the very least, it's examples like those that continue to confound me with how Secrets scores and rates certain things. I think they need to abandon final scores and simply list players in alphabetical order, with the raw tests and data, and let the chips fall where they may.



Does anyone here really believe that those players are anywhere close to an Onkyo 1000 or a Denon 5910? Especially upconverting over HDMI?


Common sense and direct experience should tell you the truth on that.


Taking any one source's information blindly as Gospel is never well advised.


For their price point however, the Oppo and Panny units are quite solid for what they are.


FWIW, my answer to the title of this thread is a resounding "YES."" http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=563168


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> FWIW, my answer to the title of this thread is a resounding "YES."" http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=563168



Come on Q I enjoy that thread and am anxiously awaiting Kris's review. Just imagine how much more improved our 960's would be if we sat The Mat on top of them.


You got to love the double blind blow hards in the thread though.


A lady falls 33,000 feet in the wreckage of a plane and lives. You can do all the double blind falls at 32 feet per second per second you want to prove why she should be dead. At the end of the day she's just going to smack you in the back of the head and say I'm alive.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Come on Q I enjoy that thread and am anxiously awaiting Kris's review. Just imagine how much more improved our 960's would be if we sat The Mat on top of them.
> 
> 
> You got to love the double blind blow hards in the thread though.
> 
> 
> A lady falls 33,000 feet in the wreckage of a plane and lives. You can do all the double blind falls at 32 feet per second per second you want to prove why she should be dead. At the end of the day she's just going to smack you in the back of the head and say I'm alive.



LOL!










That thread has become a comedic classic for me on this forum.


----------



## Earz

I have to agree with Q 100%.


I currently own the Onkyo sp 1000 and have owned the Denon 3910 and 5900.

I also own a Pany S97....and the Onkyo is at least 15% better with detail, color accuracy.....the 97 seems to push red....and overall smoothness of picture.


The 3910 and 5900 would also be considered much better players than the 97.


I don't think Secrets is saying there rankings are an absolute bible.....but more as a good place to start your player search.


I don't believe you find anyone who owns one of the players mentioned above or the Pioneer 59avi....that will say that the Oppo or S97 are as good of a player after comparing for themselves..


There probably are expensive players that offer inferior picture quality to the Oppo and S97....just not these particular models.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Earz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have to agree with Q 100%.
> 
> 
> I currently own the Onkyo sp 1000 and have owned the Denon 3910 and 5900.
> 
> I also own a Pany S97....and the Onkyo is at least 15% better with detail, color accuracy.....the 97 seems to push red....and overall smoothness of picture.



AT least 15 percent. You're being VERY conservative, but that's definitely a safe basement figure, at least.



> Quote:
> The 3910 and 5900 would also be considered much better players than the 97.
> 
> 
> I don't think Secrets is saying there rankings are an absolute bible.....but more as a good place to start your player search.



Exactly right.


Unfortunately, we have plenty of people around here that DO take Secrets and pass them off as "Absolute bible" sight unseen, without even demoing any of the hardware in question. How many threads in the DVD player forum have we seen locked down due to Secrets' acolytes "arguing" using nothing more than their misrepresentation of Secrets' test results?


Beyond count. To their credit, even Kris Deering and Sspears themselves have come into many a thread to try and clear up the misconceptions of how their work is "interpreted."




> Quote:
> I don't believe you find anyone who owns one of the players mentioned above or the Pioneer 59avi....that will say that the Oppo or S97 are as good of a player after comparing for themselves.



Of course not. Experience and _common sense_ will easily tell you the tale.



> Quote:
> There probably are expensive players that offer inferior picture quality to the Oppo and S97....just not these particular models.



Certainly.


This is a perfect example of why Secrets really needs to consider abandoning their present scoring system, especially "final scores", because it's just too easy for some people to misread and misrepresent that information. Some of them do it on purpose.


Anyways...back to the XBR960!


----------



## Gecko85

I had my ISF calibration done tonight, and I'm very pleased with the results. The guy who did it said I had one of the best sets he's seen in a while. When calibrating the grays, the set started out way strong in the blues, but he dialed it in close to 6500 kelvin. As he cycled through the different gray levels/intensities/whatever they were, the box hardly moved from the target on his laptop...it was within 1-2% across the board. Geometry was pretty close, and he dialed it in nicely. Centering was off to the right quite a bit on the HDMI input, but he fixed that as well.


I've noticed the colors are much more natural, and skin tones are great (on DVD...although HD/SD satellite are also much better, but more inconsistent.) What I found interesting, though, was he dialed in the final color settings manually. He had several specific parts of scenes on two different DVDs (Fifth Element superbit, and Shakespeare in Love, which he uses for skin tones), and he used those to dial in the color. He said he's used those same parts too many times to count, and knows exactly when they look "right." He said that most of calibrators, including the main guy at ISF, do final colors manually. I have to admit, the colors and skin tones look damn good!


All in all, it was worth $250.


----------



## Gecko85




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LongRufus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wow, someone who has been here a whole month is giving me advice on how to use these forums. Must be my lucky day



Sorry if I misinterpreted what you were saying, but it sure sounded different the first time I read it. As for only being on *these* forums a whole month, I've been on forums in general since long before there was a world wide web. I think the first forum I ever entered was in 1980, or possibly early 81, with my 300 baud accoustic coupler modem. In any event, it's a very common mistake, even for those who've been reading a particular forum for a long time, to lose perspective when they see a bunch of negative posts on a particular product. That's all I was saying...


----------



## 5TANGER

Gecko, are you in NorCal? If so, how did you find the guy?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gecko85* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had my ISF calibration done tonight, and I'm very pleased with the results. The guy who did it said I had one of the best sets he's seen in a while.



He's right. Most of these guys "in the know", know that this is a professional grade monitor, especially after a good calibration. You'd be hard pressed to find a better PQ than what this thing does post ISF.




> Quote:
> When calibrating the grays, the set started out way strong in the blues, but he dialed it in close to 6500 kelvin.



That's fairly typical. I had ungodly ratings well into 10,000 before my ISF job took it down to 6500 where it belongs.



> Quote:
> As he cycled through the different gray levels/intensities/whatever they were, the box hardly moved from the target on his laptop...it was within 1-2% across the board. *Geometry was pretty close, and he dialed it in nicely.*





You lucked on that!











> Quote:
> Centering was off to the right quite a bit on the HDMI input, but he fixed that as well.
> 
> 
> I've noticed the colors are much more natural, and skin tones are great (on DVD...although HD/SD satellite are also much better, but more inconsistent.)



Any inconsistency is, of course, the fault of the source material itself, not the TV.



> Quote:
> What I found interesting, though, was he dialed in the final color settings manually. He had several specific parts of scenes on two different DVDs (Fifth Element superbit, and Shakespeare in Love, which he uses for skin tones), and he used those to dial in the color.



Yup, that's usually how they "finish things off"- a practical viewing situation with ideal source material that they know intimately.



> Quote:
> He said he's used those same parts too many times to count, and knows exactly when they look "right." He said that most of calibrators, including the main guy at ISF, do final colors manually.



Yup.



> Quote:
> I have to admit, the colors and skin tones look damn good!
> 
> 
> 
> All in all, it was worth $250.



Absolutely. Again: I'll NEVER buy a display ever again and not get it ISF calibrated.


I hope he saved a file for you like mine did, or gave you some print outs, with all the pretty graphs and what not, so you could really SEE on paper just how drastic the before and after was. Mine certainly was!


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *baller99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Why is it people are apprehensive about going with 480p over 480i dvd players? Isn't it unanimous that progressive scan offers a better image?



Doesn't the progressive scanning of the 960 eliminatethe need for a progressive scan DVD player?


----------



## Gecko85




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *5TANGER* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Gecko, are you in NorCal? If so, how did you find the guy?



I'm in Sacramento. I used the ISF website to search for certified technitians, and limited the search to only those with all the necessary equipment. I ended up going with Steve (I think that was his name...I have his info at home) from Audio FX, who actually does the calibrations on a freelance basis.


----------



## njt

Did a search of this thread to see what some people are using as stands. Anyone out there using a wood or press board stand that is stong enough to carry the load? Have googled and googled, but am concerned that only the sony stand can hold the 200 lbs.


If I have to go with a moden stand, the vector mentioned above looks nice ( http://www.homeaudiosuperstore.com/product78.html ). Even rated at 350 lbs, I'd still be nervous about putting this set on a glass shelf.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If I have to go with a moden stand, the vector mentioned above looks nice ( http://www.homeaudiosuperstore.com/product78.html ). Even rated at 350 lbs, I'd still be nervous about putting this set on a glass shelf.



That's what mine is sitting on and it's rock solid. I was able to squeeze my center channel on the middle shelf and my DVD and receiver on the bottom. No worries.


----------



## Gecko85




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Did a search of this thread to see what some people are using as stands. Anyone out there using a wood or press board stand that is stong enough to carry the load?



I have a pressboard entertainment center that fits nicely. The hole for the TV is 41" wide, and it's rated at 202lbs. It's actually quite solid with the TV and other components loaded up. Feels very sturdy.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1077627709022 


(The website says up to 32", but that's a typo. In-store, and on the product itself, it's listed as up to 34" tv's.)


----------



## Ladd

Re: TV stands -- when reading specs or otherwise getting info about the maximum weight the stand will hold, please note that some manufacturers state the max weight the top shelf will hold (where you will put the TV), but most will simply state the maximum weight for the stand.


If you are looking at stands that will hold A/V components in addition to the TV, please take the cumulative weight of those A/V units into consideration.


On a strictly personal note, I find that a lot of the modern design stands with open backs and sides look great in the photos, but given the amount of cables, wires, power strips, UPSs, etc. I have behind my current setup (TV plus four A/V components), I'm betting that the open-design stands are more difficult in real life to not look junked-out in back.


----------



## Q of BanditZ

Why don't you guys go ahead and make an outright "TV stand" thread? Obviously there's a demand for it and, if people see that title, you'll probably get more hits.


----------



## Tom Parker

In the meantime, keep an eye out for KenTech's upcoming post with the service code adjustments he made to my 960's grayscale. I would post them now, but it could be a recipe for disaster for those who would adjust without religiously keeping track of their original settings.

The resulting image is absolutely captivating.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> On a strictly personal note, I find that a lot of the modern design stands with open backs and sides look great in the photos, but given the amount of cables, wires, power strips, UPSs, etc. I have behind my current setup (TV plus four A/V components), I'm betting that the open-design stands are more difficult in real life to not look junked-out in back.



Rats nest would describe it. But all the action is on the front side anyway. No need to look behind the TV once it's set up.


----------



## Tom Parker

For what it's worth, the Sony stand has a wire management assembly down the back. It was the easiest answer for me.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Why don't you guys go ahead and make an outright "TV stand" thread? Obviously there's a demand for it and, if people see that title, you'll probably get more hits.



Certainly a good way to get some opinions that might be different from the focused wisdom available here, but the world of "general large TVs" is a strange and scary place. I feel nice and safe right here in our little discussion thread that specifically address the XBR960.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Certainly a good way to get some opinions that might be different from the focused wisdom available here, but the world of "general large TVs" is a strange and scary place. I feel nice and safe right here in our little discussion thread that specifically address the XBR960.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tom Parker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For what it's worth, the Sony stand has a wire management assembly down the back. It was the easiest answer for me.



Agreed, the Sony stand is able to hide most of the wires, however, I have to keep the back cover off because the large amount of video and audio cables (cable box, dvd player and VCR) were so tightly pressed together they came off the input whenever a component was moved.


----------



## POWERFUL

The new BB weekly ad this week features this set and going for under 1900. Just thought I'd mention it. My local BB techs will go home with you and deliver any large set you buy from them with their BB van, so therefore there is no delivery wait.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *POWERFUL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The new BB weekly ad this week features this set and going for under 1900. Just thought I'd mention it. My local BB techs will go home with you and deliver any large set you buy from them with their BB van, so therefore there is no delivery wait.



The new MSRP of the 34XBR960 is $1899, so hopefully BB is offering an even better sale price than that. Same goes for CC or any other retailer.


----------



## Bambler

Well, after reading this thread over the span of three days, two things happened: I got a massive headache (I read every single post







) and decided to buy one (gets delivered next Friday).


I have an old 36" XBR (non HD) in the bedroom that I wanted to upgrade. I just got a 46 Toshiba DLP for the living room and got spoiled by HDTV, so I want to get one for the bedroom now.


I just wanted to thank everyone for the informative (yet sometimes confusing) read. I knew nothing about ISF calibration, being the AV newbie that I am, but will definitely get both sets done now. I just hope that the problems that people have encountered with these sets are the exception and not the rule, but I'm now prepared for the worse and hoping for the best







.


Thanks again!


----------



## awhitney




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bambler* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, after reading this thread over the span of three days, two things happened: I got a massive headache (I read every single post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and decided to buy one (gets delivered next Friday).
> 
> 
> I have an old 36" XBR (non HD) in the bedroom that I wanted to upgrade. I just got a 46 Toshiba DLP for the living room and got spoiled by HDTV, so I want to get one for the bedroom now.
> 
> 
> I just wanted to thank everyone for the informative (yet sometimes confusing) read. I knew nothing about ISF calibration, being the AV newbie that I am, but will definitely get both sets done now. I just hope that the problems that people have encountered with these sets are the exception and not the rule, but I'm now prepared for the worse and hoping for the best
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> Thanks again!



Enjoy your new tv, you'll love it!!


----------



## baller99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bambler* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, after reading this thread over the span of three days, two things happened: I got a massive headache (I read every single post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and decided to buy one (gets delivered next Friday).
> 
> 
> I have an old 36" XBR (non HD) in the bedroom that I wanted to upgrade. I just got a 46 Toshiba DLP for the living room and got spoiled by HDTV, so I want to get one for the bedroom now.
> 
> 
> I just wanted to thank everyone for the informative (yet sometimes confusing) read. I knew nothing about ISF calibration, being the AV newbie that I am, but will definitely get both sets done now. I just hope that the problems that people have encountered with these sets are the exception and not the rule, but I'm now prepared for the worse and hoping for the best
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> Thanks again!



Which problems in particular?


----------



## njt

Well after months of hand-wringing, researching, fretting about and issue in this (and other forums), I finally pulled the trigger. I have been on the fence between the 42" A10 and this set and after one final comparison... went for the 960 XBR. To me, it just had the best picture (even compared to higher priced plasmas). Got a decent (not as good as others) price from a local Best Buy, and sprung for the delivery and setup (at least minimizing the weight size issue for delivery... but god help me if I have to move







)


The paperwork took longer than expected so I had a chance to pull up a chair and watch about a quarter of the Jets game in HD... all I can say is wow!










Big thanks out to all that have posted. I'll be sure and report on any exeriences (positive and negative) in the hope that it provides help for other newbies.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well after months of hand-wringing, researching, fretting about and issue in this (and other forums), I finally pulled the trigger. I have been on the fence between the 42" A10 and this set and after one final comparison... went for the 960 XBR. To me, it just had the best picture (even compared to higher priced plasmas). Got a decent (not as good as others) price from a local Best Buy, and sprung for the delivery and setup (at least minimizing the weight size issue for delivery... but god help me if I have to move
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> The paperwork took longer than expected so I had a chance to pull up a chair and watch about a quarter of the Jets game in HD... all I can say is wow!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Big thanks out to all that have posted. I'll be sure and report on any exeriences (positive and negative) in the hope that it provides help for other newbies.



I think you made the best choice, quite honestly. Welcome aboard!










If you had gone LCD with the A10...you certainly could have done a LOT worse!


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well after months of hand-wringing, researching, fretting about and issue in this (and other forums), I finally pulled the trigger. I have been on the fence between the 42" A10 and this set and after one final comparison... went for the 960 XBR. To me, it just had the best picture (even compared to higher priced plasmas). Got a decent (not as good as others) price from a local Best Buy, and sprung for the delivery and setup (at least minimizing the weight size issue for delivery... but god help me if I have to move
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> The paperwork took longer than expected so I had a chance to pull up a chair and watch about a quarter of the Jets game in HD... all I can say is wow!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Big thanks out to all that have posted. I'll be sure and report on any exeriences (positive and negative) in the hope that it provides help for other newbies.



Congratulations on your new XBR960. I've had mine for a month now and am still floored by the picture. My brother saw it for the first time yesterday (watching the U.S. Open) and admitted it was the best picture he ever saw (and he is not a big fan of Sony. He can't purchase it due to an elaborate system of shelving for his home theater which has the room for it but cannot support the weight. He hopes someday that LCD might come close to the Sony picture.


The first live event we saw was a Yankee game and we could not believe the life-like clarity. It took us some time to get used to the set and make the proper adjustments and now the HD looks even better; even got digital cable and VHS to look good!


Enjoy the set, let us know how it works out. Sorry we missed the Jet game!


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Congratulations on your new XBR960. I've had mine for a month now and am still floored by the picture. My brother saw it for the first time yesterday (watching the U.S. Open) and admitted it was the best picture he ever saw (and he is not a big fan of Sony. He can't purchase it due to an elaborate system of shelving for his home theater which has the room for it but cannot support the weight. He hopes someday that LCD might come close to the Sony picture.
> 
> 
> The first live event we saw was a Yankee game and we could not believe the life-like clarity. It took us some time to get used to the set and make the proper adjustments and now the HD looks even better; even got digital cable and VHS to look good!
> 
> 
> Enjoy the set, let us know how it works out. Sorry we missed the Jet game!



I think you meant to use the "thumbs up" not "thumbs down" emoticon to headline your post...I hope.










This PQ is so dang good, that even the US Open on CBS HD FLOORED me today. I couldn't care less about tennis, mind you. I've been watching football all day (which also looks amazing in HD) but when the US Open came on, I kept watching it for about 20 minutes because the PQ was that extraordinary.


----------



## Ladd

Just this afternoon, I literally got the go-ahead from the lovely bride of 18 years to purchase an XBR960 (and paybacks will be enacted, but that's another story!). And now I check in and find out that Best Buy is having a sale.


So, with Best Buy having the sale and Circuity City possibly going for a price match, that means their prices, delivered to my "any accessbile room" is a whompin' $5.11 cheaper than Crutchfield.


Advice requested as to pros and cons for which of the three companies from whomI should make the purchase in the next day or two.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Advice requested as to pros and cons from whom I should make the purchase in the next day or two.



Get it from whom ever can deliver it before 9 pm Monday night.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Get it from whom ever can deliver it befor 9 pm Monday night.



LOL!


Ladd, you really can't go wrong either way in this case.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> you really can't go wrong either way in this case.



I guess I've just heard so many horror stories about clueless salespeople, legalized-robbery extended warranties and terrible customer service with BB and CC that I don't get warm fuzzies about doing business with them. And there are hardly any bad stories about Crutchfield, which as an aside, isn't that far away delivery-wise with them being based in central VA (I live in MD).


Of course, I don't need sales help nor do I plan on purchasing an extended warranty so those factors don't really come into play. Customer service would only be important if there was something wrong with the set and I had to convince them to give me a new one (if that is even possible with their policies). BB and CC are about 11 miles from my house, so they are quite close by if I had to go there a dozen times to argue. I guess neither chain would still be in business if all their transactions were as bad as the bad ones you actually hear about, so most sales must actually go well.


I've been reading this discussion thread for over a year and asking questions for about six months -- I guess I'm just needing some final hand-holding and warm fuzzies.










If most folks feel that odds are good to have a satisfactory experience with either store and are not insistant to go with Crutchfield, then I guess it would boil down to if CC would pricematch BB and then which one would deliver soonest. The BB website, as of today (Sunday) says next Saturday would be the earliest day they could deliver to my home. Perhaps that could be moved up if they realized it might be the deciding factor between them or CC.


Assuming CC price-matches, then total cost delivered would be the same. Other than delivery date, anything else other folks have negotiated into a deal that I might bring up to see if one store of the other wants the sale more?


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I guess I've just heard so many horror stories about clueless salespeople, legalized-robbery extended warranties and terrible customer service with BB and CC that I don't get warm fuzzies about doing business with them. And there are hardly any bad stories about Crutchfield, which as an aside, isn't that far away delivery-wise with them being based in central VA (I live in MD).



I live in Laurel MD and got my 960 from Audio Video Solutions. Hit me with a PM if you want more info.


----------



## Fuzzyphi

I went to best buy on a slow monday afternoon and the sales manager was begging me to buy it. Got a pretty sweet price because of their slow sales day.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I guess I've just heard so many horror stories about clueless salespeople, legalized-robbery extended warranties and terrible customer service with BB and CC that I don't get warm fuzzies about doing business with them. And there are hardly any bad stories about Crutchfield, which as an aside, isn't that far away delivery-wise with them being based in central VA (I live in MD).
> 
> 
> Of course, I don't need sales help nor do I plan on purchasing an extended warranty so those factors don't really come into play. Customer service would only be important if there was something wrong with the set and I had to convince them to give me a new one (if that is even possible with their policies). BB and CC are about 11 miles from my house, so they are quite close by if I had to go there a dozen times to argue. I guess neither chain would still be in business if all their transactions were as bad as the bad ones you actually hear about, so most sales must actually go well.
> 
> 
> I've been reading this discussion thread for over a year and asking questions for about six months -- I guess I'm just needing some final hand-holding and warm fuzzies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If most folks feel that odds are good to have a satisfactory experience with either store and are not insistant to go with Crutchfield, then I guess it would boil down to if CC would pricematch BB and then which one would deliver soonest. The BB website, as of today (Sunday) says next Saturday would be the earliest day they could deliver to my home. Perhaps that could be moved up if they realized it might be the deciding factor between them or CC.
> 
> 
> Assuming CC price-matches, then total cost delivered would be the same. Other than delivery date, anything else other folks have negotiated into a deal that I might bring up to see if one store of the other wants the sale more?




If you've been around for a while, then you probably read my posts about the supremely amazing, red carpet treatment I received from Crutchfield from beginning to end. I KNOW their overall customer support and service blows away BB and CC, in spades. Cost is negligible, based on what you're telling me.


If you can do well with BB and CC, by all means: More power to you. I'm just letting you know that if you go with Crutchfield it's about the peachiest setup you can go for.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think you meant to use the "thumbs up" not "thumbs down" emoticon to headline your post...I hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This PQ is so dang good, that even the US Open on CBS HD FLOORED me today. I couldn't care less about tennis, mind you. I've been watching football all day (which also looks amazing in HD) but when the US Open came on, I kept watching it for about 20 minutes because the PQ was that extraordinary.



Yes, I screwed up using the "thumbs down" icon. Don't ANYBODY listen to my praise of the 960 since my vision is obviously shot LOL!


Yes, the US Open was fantastic, and I switched back and forth between the analog and HD transmissions for my brother to see the vast difference. I also pointed out that the FOX broadcast of the Yankee game was not as sharp as those on the YES network (however, the FOX Sunday NFL game was superb as was the Sunday night football on ESPN HD). Didn't see the afternoon game by Gang Green..., a blessing in disguise!


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just this afternoon, I literally got the go-ahead from the lovely bride of 18 years to purchase an XBR960 (and paybacks will be enacted, but that's another story!). And now I check in and find out that Best Buy is having a sale.
> 
> 
> So, with Best Buy having the sale and Circuity City possibly going for a price match, that means their prices, delivered to my "any accessbile room" is a whompin' $5.11 cheaper than Crutchfield.
> 
> 
> Advice requested as to pros and cons for which of the three companies from whomI should make the purchase in the next day or two.



I needed my wife's approval too, and you are right... the payback has already begun!


Do you include sales tax in your total cost from either store? There is no tax from Crutchfield. FYI - we ordered our set from Crutchfield on a Thursday and it was delivered the following Thursday. They also were able to answer the many questions I had about the set right on the phone so they knew what they were talking about.


----------



## Gecko85




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Advice requested as to pros and cons for which of the three companies from whomI should make the purchase in the next day or two.



I bought mine from Best Buy, and had a great experience. They even price matched Crutchfield (taking into account the no sales tax and free shipping.) Ended up getting it for $1799+tax (this was when it wasn't on sale of any kind...) The XBR960 was an exchange/upgrade from the Toshiba 34", which I had for 3 weeks. The Toshiba had a horrible tilt problem out of the box, and Best Buy had a technician there the next day to fix the problem. Very fast service.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do you include sales tax in your total cost from either store?



Yes, I did -- but thanks for pointing that out in case I had forgotten. I have totalled up the asking price, tax (if purchased locally), delivery into my living room (if purchased locally and not included) and shipping/delivery to my living room (if purchased online).


Best Buy is $5.80 less than Crutchfield with delivery available in three days.

Circuit City is $15.88 less than Crutchfield with delivery available in one day.

Crutchfield has offered 3-5 business days for delivery (I live about 150 miles from their store).


I'm still tempted to go with Crutchfield, even with the small additional cost and extra days for delivery...


----------



## petej88

I just bought a 34XBR960. I was going to get a 34WS955 on sale at Sears. But a sales guy at Video Only matched the price and through in an XBR as well. There's no way I could say no to that.


serial number: 9015........

manufacturer date: Jan 05


Here's some info on my tv, before any calibration:


geometry: good, although in normal mode, there is a very minor bowing out in the very top left and right corner -- barely noticeable.

hi def: excellent

std def: better than on other technologies IMHO


Currently, I'm using the following video setup:

Standard:

pict 32

bright 42

color 28

hue 0

sharp 29

temp neutral

VM off

DRC interlaced

color axis: default (strangely this tv looks better in default than monitor mode)


The three-tone colors of the actual tv and over all shape makes the XBR nice looking. It's depth is only 8 inches deeper than my 50 LCD rear projection I just sold, although the XBR is almost 80 pounds heavier. Since I don't move my tv every couple weeks, the weight doesn't really matter.


I sit within 7 feet of the screen which is a good blend between hi def and std def stations. And I really enjoy the non hi def stations a lot more now since selling my 50 LCD rear projection. The LCD TV looked excellent in Hi Def but could not really hold a candle to the crt's rich colors and excellent contrast, etc.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *petej88* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Currently, I'm using the following video setup:
> 
> Standard:
> 
> pict 32
> 
> bright 42
> 
> color 28
> 
> hue 0
> 
> sharp 29
> 
> temp neutral
> 
> VM off
> 
> DRC interlaced
> 
> color axis: default (strangely this tv looks better in default than monitor mode)
> 
> 
> The three-tone colors of the actual tv and over all shape makes the XBR nice looking. It's depth is only 8 inches deeper than my 50 LCD rear projection I just sold, although the XBR is almost 80 pounds heavier.
> 
> *Since I don't move my tv every couple weeks, the weight doesn't really matter.*



I love this. I can't tell you how often I see this lame excuse used by people and it just doesn't make sense.


Barring something outrageous, or having new carpet or furniture put in, or moving outright...why the hell would anyone need to move their TV's once it's been installed where they want it?



> Quote:
> I sit within 7 feet of the screen which is a good blend between hi def and std def stations. And I really enjoy the non hi def stations a lot more now since selling my 50 LCD rear projection.



Size nothwithstanding, I'm sure it's a night and day difference.



> Quote:
> The LCD TV looked excellent in Hi Def but could not really hold a candle to the crt's rich colors and excellent contrast, etc.



All true!


Those settings are pretty good. Are you trying them out of Pro and Monitor settings? I think you'll find that far more to your liking.


----------



## gigaguy

I got my 960 in July, manuf date was June05. bought it new on ebay from a reseller in Florida, (COD!) and was hundreds less than retail. Fit perfectly in my cabinet I already had.


Took me a month to get the settings right, SD out of the box was poor, now it's almost as good as my previous Sony 34XBR100 (orig retail was $3000) which was a standout 4:3 tube.


My sofa was about 7-8 feet from the set and I moved it a foot closer when I got the set. Now I'm going to try to move another foot closer!!

Great picture but not much good to watch in HD IMO yet. I do have HBO-HD and watch movies on there. DVDs look great, the sound is very good for a TV.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gigaguy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Took me a month to get the settings right, SD out of the box was poor, now it's almost as good as my previous Sony



What settings are you using now? My 960 should be here in a few days and it would be nice to hit the ground running ...


----------



## gigaguy

Basically turn most all settings down, down. Brightness, picture, and esp sharpness...to near zero really cleared up the graininess on SD material.

I also kept the light levels low on purpose to break-in the tube safely and I kept 4:3 stretched a lot to avoid burn-in of black sidebars. Many say this is not needed but I did it to be safe. I've read that the first 100 hours is a good break-in period.

I still keep most settings low, avoid the torch mode you see in the stores!

Don't have most details and forget the names of optional settings but most processing options I turned off.

Just keep it low and tweak for a month, that's what I did.


----------



## Ladd

Thanks for the info -- I'll do that.


Of course, NOT having to tweak for a month was part of my asking what your settings were.


----------



## Gecko85




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What settings are you using now? My 960 should be here in a few days and it would be nice to hit the ground running ...



Here are the basic settings *I* used out of the box, before having the set calibrated, and they worked nicely. In fact, all of the settings listed here still stand after calibration:


*Video Mode: Pro


*Sharpness: All the way down to zero


*Color temperature: Warm


*ClearEdge VM: Off


*Color Axis (in the Advanced Video sub-menu): Monitor


I don't recall the settings for brightness, color, hue, etc, as I'm not at home right now. But, pick up either Digital Video Essentials or AVIA, and you can dial in those settings nicely. None of the settings were cranked all the way up...I think brightness is in the mid 30's...Seriously, though, either of those DVDs will help a lot.


----------



## Q of BanditZ

You may want to try that color temperature at neutral just to compare. Pro and Monitor are absolute must settings, in any event.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gecko85* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here are the basic settings *I* used out of the box, before having the set calibrated



Thanks for the details. I purchased an Avia DVD about two years ago, so with that disc and the wisdom of this group, I should be good to go.


----------



## Gecko85




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You may want to try that color temperature at neutral just to compare. Pro and Monitor are absolute must settings, in any event.



Yeah...your mileage may vary.










I used Warm because it was supposed to be closest to 6500 Kelvin. Once I had my set calibrated (and dialed in to 6500K), it all became moot anyway. Looks damn fine now


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gecko85* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yeah...your mileage may vary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used Warm because it was supposed to be closest to 6500 Kelvin. Once I had my set calibrated (and dialed in to 6500K), it all became moot anyway. Looks damn fine now



That's true. Before ISF calibration, my TV was at something ungodly like 10,000K, so in hindsight, I probably should have been using warm as well up until the ISF job. Now, as you say, it just doesn't matter anymore.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's true. Before ISF calibration, my TV was at something ungodly like 10,000K, so in hindsight, I probably should have been using warm as well up until the ISF job. Now, as you say, it just doesn't matter anymore.



But us pre-ISF calibration folks very much appreciate the discourse anyway!


I probably haven't mentioned that the concept/requirement of an ISF calibration hasn't come up in any conversation with my lovely bride yet.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> But us pre-ISF calibration folks very much appreciate the discourse anyway!
> 
> 
> I probably haven't mentioned that the concept/requirement of an ISF calibration hasn't come up in any conversation with my lovely bride yet.



Even she'll appreciate the differences afterwards. She'll appreciate you not fiddling with the remote in the middle of trying to watch something all the time.










Worth every penny.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




Q of BanditZ said:


> She'll appreciate you not fiddling with the remote in the middle of trying to watch something all the time.
> 
> 
> My wife has already accepted that as part as her fate.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




Q of BanditZ said:


> She'll appreciate you not fiddling with the remote in the middle of trying to watch something all the time.
> 
> 
> My wife has already accepted that as part of her fate.


----------



## njt

Bit of an update after having had the set for a couple of days. Very pleased with BB from price to purchase to in home delivery/setup. Not the most knowledgeable (e.g., channel setup was cancelled before scanning 50 min. for all channels), but good nothetheless.


For all with concerns about the weight/size of the set... they are well founded! One of the delivery guys could have been a linebacker on a college team and was winded delivering to a second story walk-up. Another note is that you should check the size of the box (search this thread) and confirm it can make it through the door (mine could not and had to be unboxed in the hall).


After a proper channel scan (not getting the HD STB/DVR install 'till Tuesday) I was able to get all local analog channels, a number of digital and some local HD stations.


Standard Def: Perfectly fine for me. I'm just average TV watcher that didn't fiddle with the settings much (until now, that is). I ws suprised to see that Wide Zoom was tolerable and have used that a bit.


DVD: Watched an hour of LOTR Two Towers and was just amazed. I used the fist 5 min. of this DVD to test quite a few sets in the showrooms, and it looks better than ever on a home set... with the ability to change settings (e.g., the default out of the box is Vivid mode). Just incredile on the deatil, black levels, shadow detail, etc.


HDTV: Absolutely amazing. Was able to watch a few shows (Letterman and a couple public access nature/history shows) and am blown away.


Sports: Sadly YES HD isn't comming in, so I'll have to wait for the stb. I think ony home games are HD anyway, so it's moot.


Geometry: Very good. If I really look for it... the is a slight curvature in standard def on the upper right window bar. If anything, it's hairline and I'm not sure if it is really there or I am just looking for it.







. I think this is just luck of the draw, as with buying any massed produced thing. I'm pleasantly suprised to say near perfection, at a glance.


Overall I couldn't be happier with the set. Looking forward to breaking it in over the next few months.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> DVD: Watched an hour of LOTR Two Towers and was just amazed. I used the fist 5 min. of this DVD to test quite a few sets in the showrooms, and it looks better than ever on a home set... with the ability to change settings (e.g., the default out of the box is Vivid mode). Just incredile on the deatil, black levels, shadow detail, etc.
> 
> 
> Sports: Sadly YES HD isn't comming in, so I'll have to wait for the stb. I think ony home games are HD anyway, so it's moot.
> 
> 
> Overall I couldn't be happier with the set. Looking forward to breaking it in over the next few months.



Congratulations NJ on your new set. Plan to experience even better viewing as you get more comfortable with the video settings.


I suggest using the THX optomizer found on some DVD's. Most have individual tests for brightness, contrast, color and sharpness which helped us "fine tune" the picture quality.


YES, FSN and MSG only broadcast Met and Yankee home games. Even college football games on ABC are 4x3 along with some baseball on ESPNHD. Hopefully, more to come down the road.


----------



## 5TANGER

I posted this in another thread discussing the new upscaling DVD player from Sony (DVP-NS70H), but it doesn't have anything to do with the DVD player. I'm hoping to get more help here.


Here's an excerpt from my other post:


-------------------------------------------------


Next you see evidence that the horizontal shift is due to my TV. This is a comparison between my cable box's component output (Video 5) versus the HDMI output (Video 7). Disregard the colors and brightness difference. I later realized that the color axis for the HDMI input was set to Monitor, while the same for the component was set to Default (emphasis on red colors). The difference in brightness is due to the fact that I tried to "optimize" the HDMI input using the THX optimizer on the Episode II DVD. Here's a gif showing the shift though:











-------------------------------------------------


Well, as all of you can see there's an obvious shift to the left on the HDMI input. This uncovers video not seen with the centered image of the component input, but hides more video on the left.


So.... even if I get the HDMI centered, what happens to the thin strips on both sides of the screen? Why can't we see the WHOLE picture?


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> So.... even if I get the HDMI centered, what happens to the thin strips on both sides of the screen? Why can't we see the WHOLE picture?



overscan and its normal for TVs

digital video essentials includes a brief history of overscan and I am sure you can find out this info by using google as well


----------



## 5TANGER

I kept seeing mention of overscan but I didn't really know what it was until now. Thanks for the pointers! I read quite a bit on what it is. Now is there a way to "underscan" on the 960?


----------



## Ladd

Does anyone know for sure or wish to offer an educated guess as to where is the center of weight distribution (balance point) for the XBR960?


I'll be placing the set on a heavy-duty "lazy susan" platform I built (12" bearing ring rated at 1,000 pounds) and these rings really prefer to have the load centered.


With little specific knowledge to go by, I'm guessing about 5" back from the front.


----------



## iamhives

Another question about the physical charecteristics of the xbr960


I am going to have to cut a hole in the back of my armoire to house the huge/heavy xbr960 that I will be getting - it is about 4 inches too deep so I will be curring the plywood back to allow the rear to stick out a little. I have the max dimesnions from the web but the set is obviosuly not a perfect rectangle. Can someone measure how large the opening would need to beo allow about 4 inches of the rear to protrude. Also, where would this hole need to be located in conparison to the front of the TV - obviously centered horizontally (width) but what about vertically (ie is the bulge at the back centered or above vertical center (which is what I assume) - want to keep the size of the hole I cut to a minimum




Thanks


----------



## njt

It's actually a very bizzare shape, so you might want to make a run down to the local electronics store and measure. I can check when I get home and PM you any details you need though. The rotating image on SonyStyle.com > XBR > CRT is quite helpful for getting a feel of shape.


Regarding the weight center, I wouldn't know, but can say it's severely to the front. I bet Crutchfield support would know if you called them.


----------



## Gecko85




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *5TANGER* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Next you see evidence that the horizontal shift is due to my TV. This is a comparison between my cable box's component output (Video 5) versus the HDMI output (Video 7).



It's possible to calibrate each input independently, so you can dial in both Video 5 and Video 7. Seems one of them is off a bit. I believe this is a service menu tweak, so either REALLY know what you're doing (read through KenTechs guide), or just get the set ISF calibrated (worth every penny of the $250, IMO.) My set was calibrated for each input...


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The rotating image on SonyStyle.com > XBR > CRT is quite helpful for getting a feel of shape.



That's what I used to figure out the shape and size of the platform the TV will rest on. I screen-captured the full-screen image of the bottom and top for reference, then dumped the images into Freehand and expanded them until they were 39 1/8" wide in the front. That gave me the shape and measurements of the angles to trim the 2'x4'x1" plywood to shape. A couple of coats of black paint and a lazy susan bearing and I'm done.


The TV will be delivered in about an hour, so we'll see how it all works out.

Click here for photo of TV platform 



> Quote:
> Regarding the weight center, I wouldn't know, but can say it's severely to the front. I bet Crutchfield support would know if you called them.



I like that idea.


----------



## CC ex

Congrats on a great thread everybody! I just returned my PAN-CT32WX54 after the CRT died. Thankfull the CC warranty department said that I could do and exchange, so I paid a little more and got this set. I can't wait, it'll be here Sunday just in time to catch the race on TNT HD.


----------



## 5TANGER

Here's something else worth mentioning.


In the computer world Sony CRT's are infamous for their thin horizontal lines (2 of them - cutting the screen in 3 parts). Not a big deal for me, I've had two monitors with them, never really cared....


Anyway, yesterday I saw those lines on the 960 too, and I decided to tell everyone. They're really thin and you'll have to look really hard and up-close, but they are there. I guess it's not as bad as with PC monitors because of the huge difference in viewing distances, but the lines are still there.


Thought I'd share. Here's a pic:


----------



## Gecko85




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *5TANGER* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here's something else worth mentioning.
> 
> 
> In the computer world Sony CRT's are infamous for their thin horizontal lines (2 of them - cutting the screen in 3 parts). Not a big deal for me, I've had two monitors with them, never really cared....
> 
> 
> Anyway, yesterday I saw those lines on the 960 too, and I decided to tell everyone. They're really thin and you'll have to look really hard and up-close, but they are there. I guess it's not as bad as with PC monitors because of the huge difference in viewing distances, but the lines are still there.



Yes. Those are wires holding the aperture grill in place. Been discussed many times (but thanks for the pic!) 9 times out of 10 if you don't tell someone they're there, nobody notices them. I wouldn't worry about it...


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *5TANGER* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In the computer world Sony CRT's are infamous for their thin horizontal lines (2 of them - cutting the screen in 3 parts). Not a big deal for me, I've had two monitors with them, never really cared....
> 
> 
> Anyway, yesterday I saw those lines on the 960 too, and I decided to tell everyone. They're really thin and you'll have to look really hard and up-close, but they are there. I guess it's not as bad as with PC monitors because of the huge difference in viewing distances, but the lines are still there.



Those are the fine wires that hold the aperture grill up against the back of the glass, and are part of the "design" of the Trinitron tube... wherever it is used, PC or TV monitor.


Except in those rare circumstances (such as stationary white background) where the darker wires can be seen, they are essentially invisible under normal viewing conditions of "normal" subject matter. They are particularly invisible on TV's displaying actual moving content, with a constantly moving subject on the screen and with constant variations in color and brightness. It's simply impossible to see the wires except if you freeze the picture with something like a white cloud-covered sky onscreen.



Interestingly, I once had an IBM P70 (Trinitron-based) that demonsrated the presence of two VERTICAL wires as well... a similar distance in from the left side and right side of the screen edges. So there are four wires in total, with four points of intersection on the interior of the screen at the obvious locations.


Well on my TV, at the points of intersection there seemed to be developing an overheating condition, which began to burn away the phosphors on the inside of the glass. And this made the points of intersection quite visible and apparent, over and above the four wires themselves! And on a computer screen where the image is essentially always stationary and a light background extending horizontally or vertically over the whole screen is quite common, I was going batty with my eyes constantly drawn to these four points of screen-burn and the obvious intersecting wires at these points.


I finally exchanged that particular monitor for another P70 and have never again seen that particular problem on any IBM Trinitron-based monitor I've ever owned (and I've owned multiple P70, P72, P92, P96, P275 variants).



But yes, even the XBR960 Trinitron tube exhibits those aperture-grill wire lines, if conditions are absolutely right for seeing them (which are virtually impossible under normal viewing conditions).


----------



## Bambler

Well, it arrived and, considering I'm coming from a 36xbr250 (which myself and friend moved out this morning, ugh), this thing is light .


Anyways, the picture is amazing and lives up to all of its billing. Directv, in wide zoom works for me and STD looks very, very nice. I was prepared for poor STD quality, but I'm pleasantly surprised how nice it is. Very happy with this aspect!


Progressive scan DVD is awe inspiring! Nothing more to say here.


OTA HDTV is inconclusive at the moment. I bought an indoor ant. and having marginal results. I'm able to tune into the OTA HDTV channels just fine, but they don't look any different than STD. Maybe I'm just not viewing HDTV programming? Anyways, this is all new to me (OTA HDTV), so if anyone can explain to me digital channel, OTA basics, I would be very grateful.


I haven't fiddled with the video adjustments much, such as brightness, sharpness, advanced video options, etc., but even in default PRO mode, I'm impressed!


Problems: I have some bowing in the top left corner (minor, but noticeable) and, to see the bottom part of a ticker (from ESPN, for example), I had to vertical shrink the screen all the way to 7 and vertical shift the screen up to 3. *Would ISF calibration fix this?* I have a feeling I'm losing some of the top screen because of this adjustment. Is this typical??


Well, in conclusion, I'm very happy with my purchase and wanted to thank everyone again for this post, for without it, I probably would have never purchased it!


----------



## Gecko85




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bambler* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OTA HDTV is inconclusive at the moment. I bought an indoor ant. and having marginal results. I'm able to tune into the OTA HDTV channels just fine, but they don't look any different than STD. Maybe I'm just not viewing HDTV programming? Anyways, this is all new to me (OTA HDTV), so if anyone can explain to me digital channel, OTA basics, I would be very grateful.



OTA local stations broadcast a LOT of non-HD content on those HD channels. Since I have mine running through my HD DirecTivo, I see a little "HD" icon next to broadcasts that are actually HD. Most of the locals have tons of non-HD stuff. Usually prime time shows are HD, though. I wathced Supernatural last night, and it was stunning. David Letterman is usually in HD also.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bambler* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Progressive scan DVD is awe inspiring! Nothing more to say here. OTA HDTV is inconclusive at the moment.



My 960 also arrived today and my first impressions are just the reverse -- I thought OTA HD (PBS) was FAR crisper and cleaner than the DVD "Chocolat" played on a progressive scan player set to 480P. I just figured this to be normal as an OTA HD signal has more info in it that does a DVD.


Thinking about the situation as I typed this, I guess I need to somehow figure out whethor the player or the TV is doing the upscaling and try the reverse.


Still trying to figure out how to connect various devices, so lots of work to do yet.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My 960 also arrived today and my first impressions are just the reverse -- I thought OTA HD (PBS) was FAR crisper and cleaner than the DVD "Chocolat" played on a progressive scan player set to 480P. I just figured this to be normal as an OTA HD signal has more info in it that does a DVD.
> 
> 
> Thinking about the situation as I typed this, I guess I need to somehow figure out whethor the player or the TV is doing the upscaling and try the reverse.
> 
> 
> Still trying to figure out how to connect various devices, so lots of work to do yet.



Try a different DVD.


----------



## Bambler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gecko85* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OTA local stations broadcast a LOT of non-HD content on those HD channels. Since I have mine running through my HD DirecTivo, I see a little "HD" icon next to broadcasts that are actually HD. Most of the locals have tons of non-HD stuff. Usually prime time shows are HD, though. I wathced Supernatural last night, and it was stunning. David Letterman is usually in HD also.




Ahh thanks. Just got a glimpse of my first OTA HD programming!


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> I kept seeing mention of overscan but I didn't really know what it was until now. Thanks for the pointers! I read quite a bit on what it is. Now is there a way to "underscan" on the 960?



you can adjust your overscan in the service menu

but I would not as you will start to see the garbage normally hidden by overscan on SD sources


but a PC you can underscan as well, but it is really not underscanning

basically you would still be sending the full 1920x1080i to the TV

but the video card driver adds a black border around the desktop/viewable area

sothe whole viewable desktop can be seen


and there is definitely scaling going on, so not underscanning that way is a good thing


the image is first scaled to 1080i then to the underscanned resolution


also considering CRTs are by no means huge, underscanning will make everything smaller

and make wider than widescreen content have black bars or larger black bars


----------



## spinninhye

Hey guys, just got my xbr about 2 weeks ago. LOVING IT!!! Although I do have a couple questions. 1 I know basic things about the tv's tech and have very basic calibration knowledge. I don't have the money to get it calibrated but want some advise on basic calibration(I'm sure it's been posted but I don't know where, if someone could guide me to it that would be great) Also on some programs there seems to be a slight flicker or shaking that occurs. I haven't noticed it till recently and I don't know if it's a program thing, a calibration thing, or the actual tv. Also I just got an HD cable box (mainly for discovery HD) and althuogh I was told by the cable guy that hdmi is SIGNIFICANTLY better than component I've heard otherwise also. I know it has a greater bandwith but I've heard there is no noticable difference. Anyways any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## spinninhye

Another thing, in certain HD programs for instance, when the camera zooms into a stream of water or you see heavy foilage on trees in the background I often get some sort of aliasing or pixelation of some sort, I don't know what it is, what is causing it, and how to fix it, explanations would help


----------



## 5TANGER

Do you see the flicker on Discovery HD?! I assume you're a Comcast subscriber. I have the same problem, and I believe it is Comcast's fault.


The pixelation/aliasing you see in the foliage or the tiny ripples on the water surface is due to the limited bitrate of the compressed content. The encoder didn't have enough resources allocated to accurately represent the complex image. The more detail you have in the picture, the harder it is to encode without showing artifacts. It is not a problem with your TV. It has to do with the content.


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spinninhye* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey guys, just got my xbr about 2 weeks ago. LOVING IT!!! Although I do have a couple questions. 1 I know basic things about the tv's tech and have very basic calibration knowledge. I don't have the money to get it calibrated but want some advise on basic calibration(I'm sure it's been posted but I don't know where, if someone could guide me to it that would be great) Also on some programs there seems to be a slight flicker or shaking that occurs. I haven't noticed it till recently and I don't know if it's a program thing, a calibration thing, or the actual tv. Also I just got an HD cable box (mainly for discovery HD) and althuogh I was told by the cable guy that hdmi is SIGNIFICANTLY better than component I've heard otherwise also. I know it has a greater bandwith but I've heard there is no noticable difference. Anyways any help would be greatly appreciated.



Calibration-get yourself a calibration dvd from amazon or half.com. Avia Guide to Home Theatre and Digital Video Essentials are the most popular. If you are on a budget, Sound & Vision Home Theater Tune-up is a good beginners disk and covers all basics you can tweak without going into the service menu.


Flicker-No idea. If you can find programs that always do it or never do it, you'll have a better chance of getting an answer.


HDMI cable-I did a bunch of reading before I got my Comcast 6412 box, and it was pretty much split 50/50 between people who had used both cables in their setup. You can get HDMI cables online for less than $30, pick up a set and decide for yourself.


----------



## 5TANGER

Discovery HD always flickers. None of the other HD channels do.


I found no difference in picture quality between the component and HDMI on the cable box (Motorola 6412 - dual tuner DVR). I have tried a $99 PURE AV HDMI cable and a $10 equivalent from monoprice.com. Both perform the same. Don't waste your money on expen$$$sive HDMI cables. Buy a calibration DVD instead.


----------



## tennberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *5TANGER* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Discovery HD always flickers. None of the other HD channels do.
> 
> 
> I found no difference in picture quality between the component and HDMI on the cable box (Motorola 6412 - dual tuner DVR). I have tried a $99 PURE AV HDMI cable and a $10 equivalent from monoprice.com. Both perform the same. Don't waste your money on expen$$$sive HDMI cables. Buy a calibration DVD instead.



STANGER:


The issue is actually with Discovery. On another thread, a Discovery employee acknowleged the problem. It has to do with Discovery setting up a new operations center for Discovery HD and using new equipment to transmit the signal. It has nothing to do with Comcast.


The Discovery employee said that the problem should hopefully be fixed within a week or two.


----------



## 5TANGER

In that case I extend my apologies to Comcast.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *5TANGER* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In that case I extend my apologies to Comcast.



They don't deserve it.


----------



## spinninhye

I think I'll probly go with the avia one since I'm seeing a lot of negatiive comments on the other dvd. In the meantime, what do you all have as your basic settings???


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spinninhye* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think I'll probly go with the avia one since I'm seeing a lot of negatiive comments on the other dvd. In the meantime, what do you all have as your basic settings???



DVE is very good, just more complicated. For CRT's, Avia is all you will ever need.


Try your settings somewhere in this ballpark:


Pro, Monitor, VM off, Color=31, hue dead center o, Sharpness down into the teens, Brightness around high 30's low 40's, contrast about the same, give or take.


50 is a ceiling you really shouldn't cross.


Picture to Warm.


----------



## Bambler

I wanted to link some pictures of the TV in all its HDTV glory, but I guess I'm too new (two more posts to go)!


Sorry for the spam.


----------



## CC ex

Get my XBR960 delivered tomorrow! I can't wait! After reading a little more of this thread, it looks like I should go ahead and order the Avia setup disc too. Thanks for the input guys.


----------



## spinninhye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> DVE is very good, just more complicated. For CRT's, Avia is all you will ever need.
> 
> 
> Try your settings somewhere in this ballpark:
> 
> 
> Pro, Monitor, VM off, Color=31, hue dead center o, Sharpness down into the teens, Brightness around high 30's low 40's, contrast about the same, give or take.
> 
> 
> 50 is a ceiling you really shouldn't cross.
> 
> 
> Picture to Warm.



blech, kinda looks really dull. I'll keep it on and see if I end up prefering it.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spinninhye* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> blech, kinda looks really dull. I'll keep it on and see if I end up prefering it.



belch????


Must be a new word for, thank you for your help, I appreciate you taking the time to make a suggestion to improve my viewing experience. Since I'm new to the high def thing it may take a while for me to enjoy a really great picture.


----------



## Ladd

On my recently-exiled-to-the-bedroom 27" XBR, the speakers were two side-mounted units that could remain hung on the sides of the TV cabinet or removed and mounted to the walls. As such, there were electrically connected to the TV via wires.


This was very useful when the TV was used with an A/V receiver, as these speakers could then be connected to the "Center" speaker output on the back of the receiver. The speakers then usefully employed and the volume could be controlled by the A/V receiver.


With the new XBR960, I have figured out a way to connect the "Center" output on the A/V receiver to the TV so that sound does come from the internal speakers, but unfortunately the volume is controlled by the TV, not the receiver.


Is there any way to connect the "Center" output to either the TV or the speakers themselves so that the volume can be controlled solely by the A/V receiver?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spinninhye* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> blech, kinda looks really dull. I'll keep it on and see if I end up prefering it.



Those were just ballpark figures for you to play in. By all means, fine tune it as you see fit. I recommend you purchase AVIA to help you.


----------



## spinninhye

Watching a few movies with this setting prove to be a very natural color tone, but watching certain nature programs and watching something like House of Flying Daggers, while nice, I feel like im loosing the effects of some of the beautiful color assortments. On one hand I have a cleaner, realistic picture on the other hand I have very bright vivid colors. Finding a middle ground would be extremely hard, I don't know if I should just switch bettween the two settings depending on the program or what. Hmmm, it makes it really difficult to decide.


However, I do really appreciate the help, and it's kind of opened my eyes to another way of viewing tv. Kind of frustrating to find that perfect picture though huh? Any more suggestions are always welcome.


----------



## njt

Just a quick post to say thanks for all of the recommendations in this thread. Having had a week to enjoy the set I have been able to run through most of the user menu settings for cable and dvd. The set is a top performer and I have been thrilled with old favorite DVDs and the few HD shows I have been able to catch (Figures the Yanks would go on a 7 day road trip the day I get my set







). If the few mins of the Notre Dame game that I saw last night were any indication of sports performance, I'm in for a very enjoyable Sunday afternoon.


If anyone else is new to this set I found the tweaks in this thread and http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4&page=8&pp=30 were helpful to get a ballpark set of settings (though I tend to keep brightness 5-10 clicks lower than most).


Cablevision stb/dvr install this week, I'll do the DVE or Avia calibration next weekend and keep mulling the prospect of an ISF calibration after a month or two of use.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spinninhye* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Watching a few movies with this setting prove to be a very natural color tone, but watching certain nature programs and watching something like House of Flying Daggers, while nice, I feel like im loosing the effects of some of the beautiful color assortments. On one hand I have a cleaner, realistic picture on the other hand I have very bright vivid colors. Finding a middle ground would be extremely hard, I don't know if I should just switch bettween the two settings depending on the program or what. Hmmm, it makes it really difficult to decide.
> 
> 
> However, I do really appreciate the help, and it's kind of opened my eyes to another way of viewing tv. Kind of frustrating to find that perfect picture though huh? Any more suggestions are always welcome.



With a professional grade monitor like this, I can't implore you enough to seriously consider an ISF calibration for it so you CAN have that "perfect" balance of color, contrast, blacks, grays, etc. (Not to mention any nagging geometry and convergeance issues.)


I was kind of skeptical myself until I saw the CLEAR before/after for myself. Before the ISF job, I always had the remote in my hand and couldn't quite fiddle things to my satisfaction. Now I never even touch the remote unless it's for volume, as it should be.


----------



## spinninhye

Well the more I watch it now the more I like it, it still isn't that perfect balance but perhaps I should get it calibrated. Any professional, cheap calibrators in the washington DC/Va area?


The picture is much better this way, I just feel like the colors may be lacking just a tiny tiny bit too much. Thanks for the info though!


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spinninhye* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well the more I watch it now the more I like it, it still isn't that perfect balance but perhaps I should get it calibrated. Any professional, cheap calibrators in the washington DC/Va area?



Check here:

http://www.imagingscience.com/isf-trained.cfm 



> Quote:
> The picture is much better this way, I just feel like the colors may be lacking just a tiny tiny bit too much. Thanks for the info though!



Sure, you'll fine tune it they way you like it. I just tried to give you a nice starting place.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spinninhye* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well the more I watch it now the more I like it, it still isn't that perfect balance but perhaps I should get it calibrated. Any professional, cheap calibrators in the washington DC/Va area?
> 
> 
> The picture is much better this way, I just feel like the colors may be lacking just a tiny tiny bit too much. Thanks for the info though!



Cheap and professional usually do not go together.


Unfortunately the guy who did my TV has moved to the west coast. If you search this thread or another thread, ISF Calibration A truly great experience, you can get the webstie to a guy named Chad who did Q's 960. He's based in Ohio but will make a trip to the DC metro area if there is enough interest.


Let me know if you want to set something up with him. I have a friend interested in a calibration and I may have my 30xs955 done as well.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just a quick post to say thanks for all of the recommendations in this thread. Having had a week to enjoy the set I have been able to run through most of the user menu settings for cable and dvd. The set is a top performer and I have been thrilled with old favorite DVDs and the few HD shows I have been able to catch (Figures the Yanks would go on a 7 day road trip the day I get my set
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). If the few mins of the Notre Dame game that I saw last night were any indication of sports performance, I'm in for a very enjoyable Sunday afternoon.
> 
> 
> If anyone else is new to this set I found the tweaks in this thread and http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4&page=8&pp=30 were helpful to get a ballpark set of settings (though I tend to keep brightness 5-10 clicks lower than most).
> 
> 
> Cablevision stb/dvr install this week, I'll do the DVE or Avia calibration next weekend and keep mulling the prospect of an ISF calibration after a month or two of use.



Hi NJ,


These are the settings it took me a month to settle on:


DVD - Movie, Picture 29, Brightness 27, Color 30, R2, Sharpness 29, Color Temp warm, Clear Edge high, DRC Mode cinamotion, DRC Palette r53, c53, Color Axis default.


HDMI - Movie, Picture 34, Brightness 23, Color 33, R2, Sharpness 37, Color Temp warm, Clear Edge high, default on.


Any feedback from fellow 960 users would be greatly appreciate.


I also have settings for digital cable and VHS but haven't written them down on paper.


While he Avia is well recommended, assume it cannot be used for HD since it can only be used through a DVD player and my callibrations for HD do differ from DVD.


.... and why wasn't the Jet game in HD?


----------



## POWERFUL




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> .... and why wasn't the Jet game in HD?



It wasn't scheduled to be by CBS that's why and I'm mad as hell for it, but on the bright side they won. Apparently CBS only does certain games in HD and this week's Jet game wasn't one of them.


----------



## Gecko85




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spinninhye* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Any professional, cheap calibrators in the washington DC/Va area?



A full service calibration by an ISF certified technician, using ISF certified equipment, should cost $250 for a CRT such as the XBR960. That's what many on this forum have paid. I got two quotes in my area: one for $250, and one for $500. I asked the guy who did mine (who I got off the ISF website) why the price difference, and he said the other guy is price gouging. He said that ISF recommends the pricing structure, and a CRT should be $250...here, or anywhere. Other types of sets may be more, depending on how difficult they are to calibrate.


Go here to find ISF technicians in your area:

http://www.imagingscience.com/isf-trained.cfm


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> .... and why wasn't the Jet game in HD?



Thanks for the suggestions. I will try a bit more of fiddling tonight (not that I'm disapointed with what I have now... just enjoying obsessing w/ my new toy







). Don't think I have changed anything outside of the primary video menus.


Jets game was definitely a disapointment. The only thing I have been unhappy with so far has been the lack of HD *AND* 16:9 material out there. This will improve once I get my cable box, but I was very suprised to se shows like survivor not taking advantage of 16:9. Looks like a lot of prime time teledramas do, but I usually don't watch those. PBS has been great though, and I'm hoping ESPN HD has the NBA games in 16:9.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions. I will try a bit more of fiddling tonight (not that I'm disapointed with what I have now... just enjoying obsessing w/ my new toy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Don't think I have changed anything outside of the primary video menus.
> 
> 
> Jets game was definitely a disapointment. The only thing I have been unhappy with so far has been the lack of HD *AND* 16:9 material out there. This will improve once I get my cable box, but I was very suprised to se shows like survivor not taking advantage of 16:9. Looks like a lot of prime time teledramas do, but I usually don't watch those. PBS has been great though, and I'm hoping ESPN HD has the NBA games in 16:9.



Do yourself a favor and write down the settings as you're trying them out..., as soon as I changed one or two I wasn't so sure of the precise numbers I previously had LOL.


The Yanks are home and on HD tonight - you'll be in for a real treat. Somtimes the pregame show is on HD, other times the transmission begins with the actual game broadcast. Last night's NFL game on ESPN-HD was gorgeous, however, my wife wanted to watch QVC so at times I had to settle for twin view - this is what you appropriately call payback!


----------



## spinninhye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Cheap and professional usually do not go together.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately the guy who did my TV has moved to the west coast. If you search this thread or another thread, ISF Calibration A truly great experience, you can get the webstie to a guy named Chad who did Q's 960. He's based in Ohio but will make a trip to the DC metro area if there is enough interest.
> 
> 
> Let me know if you want to set something up with him. I have a friend interested in a calibration and I may have my 30xs955 done as well.



Sure, I'll leave it to you if you want to find out the details. Let me know about price availability, and what exactly would be done, and maybe we can work something out. You can e-mail me at [email protected]


----------



## spinninhye

Also what would actually be done as far as calibration goes. What do they do besides the basic video adjustments you can do yourself on your tv. I understand that they do geometry and convergence fixes, which really isn't a problem for me, but what else do they/can they do?


----------



## Gecko85




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spinninhye* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Also what would actually be done as far as calibration goes. What do they do besides the basic video adjustments you can do yourself on your tv. I understand that they do geometry and convergence fixes, which really isn't a problem for me, but what else do they/can they do?



The single most important thing they do is set the color temperature. They calibrate the grayscale to 6500 Kelvin, which is the NTSC standard. Most sets are pretty far off out of the box. Calibrating the color temp will improve your color accuracy across the board. It's something you can't do yourself without the right equipment.


----------



## ttenrag

I have been really considering buying this set for quite some time down, but I can't get over the size issue. My viewing distance is about 9-10ft. At this distance I am not benefiting from the $2000 quality of this TV.


Everyone says that the Tube Tv's have the best picture, but I am starting to believe that is somewhat subjective....especially with the new flat panels (Plasma).


Yes a tube TV such as the XBR960 will give you more color contrast and deeper blacks for movie watching, but that's it.


There are Geometry issues on every tube TV that are not present with a good Plasma. Plasma's geomtry are perfect out of the box.


The picture quality, while soft and natural, is not as sharp or vivid as with a good quality plasma.


This is a big one...size. While 34inches is better than my current 27inch STD, it is still not enough given my viewing distance.


Weight is also a consideration. I know, we don't move our TV very often, but it is nice to have that option without having the entire neighborhood come over to help you move your 200 pound beast.


I believe this TV, XBR960, is a good bang for the buck in terms of quality, but $2000 for a 34inch widescreen seems a bit much now that plasma's are begining to rival these historic, and heavy, Movie Masters......


Just wanted to chime in.....not trying to downplay anyones XBR960.


Please write in and convince me to not buy a 42 inch Plasma and buy the XBR960???


----------



## Alan Gouger

Please keep this on topic to the Sony TV only. If you want to buy a plasma keep it out of this thread. Only talk about the Sony.


Thank you.


----------



## gigaguy

My 960 is 'sharper' and more 'vivid' than any flat panel I've seen. I prefer the look of CRT but the 34" size can be a negative depending on your viewing distance.


Sony msrp is now $1899 (down from $2199) and discounts are not hard to find, the Sony 34XS955 (same tube) is $1499 I think now. I got my 960 online for about what the XS955 costs.

For a Plasma, add in wall mounting and hardware to the cost. I figure a decent HD Plasma will be twice the 960 cost.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gigaguy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My 960 is 'sharper' and more 'vivid' than any flat panel I've seen. I prefer the look of CRT but the 34" size can be a negative depending on your viewing distance.
> 
> 
> Sony msrp is now $1899 (down from $2199) and discounts are not hard to find, the Sony 34XS955 (same tube) is $1499 I think now. I got my 960 online for about what the XS955 costs.
> 
> For a Plasma, add in wall mounting and hardware to the cost. I figure a decent HD Plasma will be twice the 960 cost.



One thing to add:


The best native resolution you will find on a plasma anywhere near this price range, if you're lucky, is 1024 X 768. This is NOT a true HD resolution. You need at least 1280X720 to have "true HD."


960 wins.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Got a real scare this morning when the set turned on but no picture or audio - a dead set. Turned the power on and off several times to no avail. Was afraid it needed repair after five weeks.


But got help from SONY customer service, which had me unplug set for 5 minutes. Power came back on. Sony told me the 960 is a complex piece of equipment, like a PC, and it is not uncommon for it to need "rebooting" like a computer. This is normal for the set. It was also suggested plugging the 960 directly into the wall socket, and not a surge protector.


Has anyone else experienced this? If it does occur, don't forget to wait the full five minutes


----------



## Gecko85




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Got a real scare this morning when the set turned on but no picture or audio - a dead set. Turned the power on and off several times to no avail. Was afraid it needed repair after five weeks.
> 
> 
> But got help from SONY customer service, which had me unplug set for 5 minutes. Power came back on. Sony told me the 960 is a complex piece of equipment, like a PC, and it is not uncommon for it to need "rebooting" like a computer. This is normal for the set. It was also suggested plugging the 960 directly into the wall socket, and not a surge protector.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else experienced this? If it does occur, don't forget to wait the full five minutes



Yes. It's happened to many of us...It is, actually, a computer. It runs Linux.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Got a real scare this morning when the set turned on but no picture or audio - a dead set. Turned the power on and off several times to no avail. Was afraid it needed repair after five weeks.
> 
> 
> But got help from SONY customer service, which had me unplug set for 5 minutes. Power came back on. Sony told me the 960 is a complex piece of equipment, like a PC, and it is not uncommon for it to need "rebooting" like a computer. This is normal for the set. It was also suggested plugging the 960 directly into the wall socket, and not a surge protector.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else experienced this? If it does occur, don't forget to wait the full five minutes



Yup. This is a well known quirk. I had it happen one time a couple of months ago, about a week into owning the set. It was the blinking red light and the set never "rolled over" and turn on all the way.


I unplugged it for maybe 60 seconds...and I've never seen it again. *knocks on wood* I've put in a heck of a lot of hours into the set since this time, btw.










The Sony folks told you the truth on that count. Nothing to be alarmed about.


----------



## Gecko85




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ttenrag* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just wanted to chime in.....not trying to downplay anyones XBR960.
> 
> 
> Please write in and convince me to not buy a 42 inch Plasma and buy the XBR960???



My 960 has never, and will never, have digital artifacting...unlike the other technology.


It's nearly impossible to have burn in on my 960. A "cheap" other technology is much more prone to burn in.


My 960 will not suffer from dead pixels.


My 960 actually consumes less power, and generates less heat, than the other technology you mentioned.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gecko85* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My 960 has never, and will never, have digital artifacting...unlike the other technology.
> 
> 
> It's nearly impossible to have burn in on my 960. A "cheap" other technology is much more prone to burn in.
> 
> 
> My 960 will not suffer from dead pixels.
> 
> 
> My 960 actually consumes less power, and generates less heat, than the other technology you mentioned.




Fact after fact after fact...


----------



## Dovetails




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ttenrag* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Please write in and convince me to not buy a 42 inch Plasma and buy the XBR960???




Last night I went to my local 'High End' A/V salon and spent some considerable time with the XBR960. Let me just say, that while i've seen this TV many times at the local 'super stores' , if you've never had the opportunity to see what this set can do under the proper lighting with a correct calibration (even if it's just a good user menu tweek) you are really missing something special! The reference quality DVDs that I'd brought along for audition were so good on this set that they looked 95% as good as the sat. HD feed also running to the TV. I personally would not have givin this set a second look if all I'd ever seen was the PQ that the local super store environment can muster. Especially sitting along side the overly bright and vivid flat panel displays that initially catch your attention. But an interesting thing happens when you get the 960 in a realistic HT room environment. Under low light you will be taking the Sony OFF 'vivid' mode because it will seem to bright and eye fatiguing. While, at the BB stores you will think it looks to dull even with the 'vivid' on. Now just think for a moment .... how much you are going to have to back down those 'bright & vivid' flat displays in the store .... just to make them watchable in your HT room without getting a headache! The Sony 'excels' in the low light situations and can create a magic that I feel can only still be achieved thru CRT. This set may not 'wow' you as much as other displays at first .... but the more you watch it, the more you realize it is just doing everything right and not drawing overly attention to any one aspect of the picture.


Like you .... I was sitting on the fence between the same exact two display choices, and don't get me wrong , they are both good choices .... but after last nights session, it's going to be the XBR for me!!


----------



## Gecko85




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dovetails* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Last night I went to my local 'High End' A/V salon and spent some considerable time with the XBR960. Let me just say, that while i've seen this TV many times at the local 'super stores' , if you've never had the opportunity to see what this set can do under the proper lighting with a correct calibration (even if it's just a good user menu tweek) you are really missing something special! The reference quality DVDs that I'd brought along for audition were so good on this set that they looked 95% as good as the sat. HD feed also running to the TV. I personally would not have givin this set a second look if all I'd ever seen was the PQ that the local super store environment can muster. Especially sitting along side the overly bright and vivid flat panel displays that initially catch your attention. But an interesting thing happens when you get the 960 in a realistic HT room environment. Under low light you will be taking the Sony OFF 'vivid' mode because it will seem to bright and eye fatiguing. While, at the BB stores you will think it looks to dull even with the 'vivid' on. Now just think for a moment .... how much you are going to have to back down those 'bright & vivid' flat displays in the store .... just to make them watchable in your HT room without getting a headache! The Sony 'excels' in the low light situations and can create a magic that I feel can only still be achieved thru CRT. This set may not 'wow' you as much as other displays at first .... but the more you watch it, the more you realize it is just doing everything right and not drawing overly attention to any one aspect of the picture.
> 
> 
> Like you .... I was sitting on the fence between the same exact two display choices, and don't get me wrong , they are both good choices .... but after last nights session, it's going to be the XBR for me!!



Excellent points. I recommend everyone bring along a copy of Master and Commander (along with whatever other DVDs they use for reference). Play it on the 960, in as good an environment as you can find, then play it on any other technology. Look at the details in the shadows in the first scene, when the guy is walking through the underbelly of the ship at night, with only a lantern in his hand. Then, skip to the first "fog" scene. You can pick any of a dozen scenes in this movie that will show you night and day differences in the technologies. The fog in particular looks like crap on most sets. Not so on the XBR960.


----------



## spinninhye

Why is it that the tvs aren't calibrated to preffered settings out of the box? we're paying for a tv to do what it's suppose to do from the get go are we not?


----------



## Gecko85




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spinninhye* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Why is it that the tvs aren't calibrated to preffered settings out of the box? we're paying for a tv to do what it's suppose to do from the get go are we not?



Marketing.


Each mfg is in a race to see who's set can look best on the showroom floor, right next to all the other sets. In order to do that, they have to screw up the picture to very unnatural settings in order for it to stand out. It's why most sets come preset to "vivid" mode.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Thanks everyone for letting me know I wasn't the only one who had what best can be described as a "Black Hole" experience with no picture and audio. Am sure you all had the same, upsetting (that's saying it mildly) feeling when it first happened too. Lucky I had the day off today when this occurred - I would not even venture a guess what my state of mind would have been had the Mrs. called me at work to say the set was broken LOL!


Because the 960 is such an elaborate HDTV it is subject to these occurrances so if it happened to Ralph Krandem he would have said "it pays to buy the best", but he is probably still waiting for 3D TV. LOL.


Thanks again.., this is a GREAT forum to be part of!


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ttenrag* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Please write in and convince me to not buy a 42 inch Plasma and buy the XBR960???



Well, I wouldn't want to convince you of anything, as IMHO, it comes down to personal preferences. My best suggestion would be to spend some time watching both types, do research in this forum to chart pros and cons and make a final decision based on what factors are most important to you.


That being said, I was in a similar position last month and went for the 960. While I was excited about the set right away, I can't tell you how happy I am with it now that I have a cable install/stb and have played with the settings (thatnks to people in this forum sharing their experiences and prefs). I watched the Yanks Os game last night and was just floored. The perfomance on movies new (e.g., Star Wars Attack of the Clones) and old[er] (e.g., Raiders of the Lost Ark) is fantastic. I really don't think I have seen these films in this type of quality since theye were in the theaters. The clarity and digi-effects in the scene on Camino (sp?) are superb.


Regarding weight and size... they are legitimate concerns! I paid for delivery and haven't moved the set since (though the bottom of the sony stand must have that slider material, bc it glides on carpet for cable adjustment. Bottom line is that I am an apartment dweller and will likely move at least once with this set. It's big, heavy and bulky... but worth it.


Geometry issues happen as I understand it, but can be resoved via a good ISF calibration. I really don't see anything on mine unless I am watching 4:3 content.


Size (34" limitation) seems to be a concern for some, but not me, as I was coming from a 27" 4:3 set. I can see how some find larger screen size appealing, but I wasn't prepared to make the neccessary sacrifices (quality or financial) to get it. 34" is fine for me and my reciner sits about 10' away.


So based on my experience, I'd highly recommend the set. But take your time and do your homework... you are the one that needs to be happy with the purchase.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I wouldn't want to convince you of anything, as IMHO, it comes down to personal preferences. My best suggestion would be to spend some time watching both types, do research in this forum to chart pros and cons and make a final decision based on what factors are most important to you.
> 
> 
> That being said, I was in a similar position last month and went for the 960. While I was excited about the set right away, I can't tell you how happy I am with it now that I have a cable install/stb and have played with the settings (thatnks to people in this forum sharing their experiences and prefs). I watched the Yanks Os game last night and was just floored. The perfomance on movies new (e.g., Star Wars Attack of the Clones) and old[er] (e.g., Raiders of the Lost Ark) is fantastic. I really don't think I have seen these films in this type of quality since theye were in the theaters. The clarity and digi-effects in the scene on Camino (sp?) are superb.
> 
> 
> Regarding weight and size... they are legitimate concerns! I paid for delivery and haven't moved the set since (though the bottom of the sony stand must have that slider material, bc it glides on carpet for cable adjustment. Bottom line is that I am an apartment dweller and will likely move at least once with this set. It's big, heavy and bulky... but worth it.
> 
> 
> Geometry issues happen as I understand it, but can be resoved via a good ISF calibration. I really don't see anything on mine unless I am watching 4:3 content.
> 
> 
> Size (34" limitation) seems to be a concern for some, but not me, as I was coming from a 27" 4:3 set. I can see how some find larger screen size appealing, but I wasn't prepared to make the neccessary sacrifices (quality or financial) to get it. 34" is fine for me and my reciner sits about 10' away.
> 
> 
> So based on my experience, I'd highly recommend the set. But take your time and do your homework... you are the one that needs to be happy with the purchase.




Well said. In addition to this, the truths being discussed in this thread should also be considered: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=582839


----------



## bpiscadlo

If it only weighed 125 lbs and was 37"...................it would be in at least one of my rooms.........sigh


----------



## silent_man

Hi all! Well, thanks to the many, many impressions in this thread I purchased the KD-34XBR960 from Best Buy and had it delivered here this week. However I have yet to take it out of the box for several reasons. On the day the television was delivered, I was not personally home to receive it. I arranged to have my cousin there to meet the delivery guys while I was at work. All seemed well until I got home and saw that the tape on one side of the box was broken and one flap ajar. I immediately called my cousin and he described this scenario:


The TV was brought up to the door on a hand truck with the XBR box secured sideways (vertically). The box also had one top flap hanging open. When asked why, the delivery guy said that that the tape "just popped open" while being forklifted onto the truck (or off the shelf to the truck or something) and that there was nothing to worry about.


After opening the box fully, I saw that the styrofoam on one side of the TV set was broken. I also noticed a "Do not transport on its side" warning diagram and realized he had it that way on the hand truck. I'm actually a little mad that my cousin accepted it this way. Guess if you want something done right...


I am assuming that this is something that should be exchanged? How has the packaging arrived on all of your sets? What is the danger to having the box on its side during the delivery? Basically I just want to know if I should borrow a friend's truck and drive this sucker out there tonight for a new one. Any suggestions would be great!


Argh, back to work...


----------



## Gecko85




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *silent_man* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am assuming that this is something that should be exchanged? How has the packaging arrived on all of your sets? What is the danger to having the box on its side during the delivery? Basically I just want to know if I should borrow a friend's truck and drive this sucker out there tonight for a new one. Any suggestions would be great!
> 
> 
> Argh, back to work...



I'd have to double check (I still have the box), but I'm pretty sure mine had cardboard staples and tape on the top.


The delivery guys should have set the tv up for you...that's included in most delivery charges. Mine was put into my entertainment center, plugged in, and connected to my HD receiver. They turned it on to verify it worked before leaving. Nothing fancy, just basic "does it show a picture?"


If you're not comfortable with the condition of the box, call the company and tell them you'd like them to bring another one. You shouldn't, under any circumstances, have to lug it back yourself.


I had purchased a Toshiba 34" widescreen from BestBuy, and tried it out for 3 weeks. It was far less than ideal, so I returned it. I took my receipt back to BestBuy, and upgraded to the Sony 34XBR960. They arranged for delivery of the Sony, and *pickup* of the Toshiba. I never had to touch a thing. In fact, I wasn't even charged another delivery charge when I exchanged...


----------



## ja30278

Hi guys,


loooong time lurker. Great forum with lots of information (even if that means a ton to sort through)


I've run up against what seems to be a common dillema. I'm looking to upgrade my current standard def 27" trinitron to a moderately priced HDTV; my basic considerations:


1.) My living room is fairly small, perhaps 7.5 ft from couch to TV, with some windows (although not too brightly lit)


2.) My use will be split..perhaps 20% video games, 20% dvds and the rest a mix of SD and HD.


The videogame use has fairly well disqualified both plasma and dlp (for burn-in and sync issues respectively). I've never particularly cared for crt rptv's, the small viewing angles were too much for me. I can't afford a front projector (and don't have the right space even if I could). This leaves me with a choice of LCD (panel or projection) and CRT.


I've seen what the 960 can do, and there's no question that the image is superior to anything else on the market, but a few issues cause me to hesitate:


1.) The size: this is basically a horizontally stretched 27" television. I'm finding hard to justify spending 1700 without gaining much apparent screen size. Can anyone comment on the upgrade from 27-34? Were you pleased or disappointed with the size of this set?


2.) resolution: without getting into a tech war, can someone clarify how the XBR handles 720P signals? I'm getting an XBOX 360, and I understand that many games will run in 720P. Obviously I wouldn't make a TV purchase based just on how a game console performed, but in this specific case, would a display who's resolution was natively (or close to it) 720P perform better?


3.) Weight: I know that this TV is heavy, but how much of a problem is this for furniture? will I be stuck using the hideous (at least to my wife) Sony stand? or be forced to buy some heavy duty media stand?


Thanks in advance


----------



## Gecko85




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ja30278* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 1.) The size: this is basically a horizontally stretched 27" television. I'm finding hard to justify spending 1700 without gaining much apparent screen size. Can anyone comment on the upgrade from 27-34? Were you pleased or disappointed with the size of this set?
> 
> 
> 2.) resolution: without getting into a tech war, can someone clarify how the XBR handles 720P signals? I'm getting an XBOX 360, and I understand that many games will run in 720P. Obviously I wouldn't make a TV purchase based just on how a game console performed, but in this specific case, would a display who's resolution was natively (or close to it) 720P perform better?
> 
> 
> 3.) Weight: I know that this TV is heavy, but how much of a problem is this for furniture? will I be stuck using the hideous (at least to my wife) Sony stand? or be forced to buy some heavy duty media stand?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance



First of all, for the size of your room and viewing distance, the 34XBR960 is perfect. Now, on to your concerns:


1) It's really much more than a horizontally stretched 27". A 27" 4:3 set, when viewing widescreen (letterboxed) content, will have an actual viewing size of about 24-25". A 34" 16:9 set, when viewing widescreen content, will have roughly a 34" viewing area (depends on the actual aspect ratio.) So, your DVD's will be *much* bigger. When viewing SD content, you can either view it in "full" mode, which stretches it to 16:9 (I prefer this, but some people don't like it...you'll have to decide for yourself), or you can view it in it's native 4:3 format. In the latter case, it'll be either the same, or slightly LARGER than your 27" set. I've measured it on my actual set, and it's usually between 27 and 28".


2) The XBR960 will display your 720p input at 1080i. You'd be very hard pressed to tell the difference. It'll look fantastic.


3) Depends on what furniture you have. I got a nice entertainment center at Best Buy for $200 that fits it perfectly.


----------



## ja30278

Thanks for the quick reply.


My first post was made while at work; after coming home and getting out the measuring tape it turns out that my viewing distance is actually a little over 9 ft. Does this affect your recommendation?


I realize that widescreen content will get a huge boost...but I still have a hangup about SD programming being basically the same size as now...just stretched in the horizontal.


Regarding the conversion to 1080i, I suppose my biggest question (and the one I can't seem to see a consensus on) is how the conversion is done: is 720p content down-res'd to some intermediate resolution before being upconverted to 1080i? I guess as long as it looks ok, it shouldn't matter, but I would hate to think of losing picture data.


----------



## Gecko85




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ja30278* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My first post was made while at work; after coming home and getting out the measuring tape it turns out that my viewing distance is actually a little over 9 ft. Does this affect your recommendation?



My *personal* max for the 34" Sony would be 9.5ft. Some on this board have 10ft viewing distance and are perfectly happy. A little over 9 should be fine. I'm at 8ft and it seems perfect...I can't imagine another foot would make *that* much difference. (Alhtough, if you could cheat your chouch a little closer...







)


----------



## silent_man

Thanks for the reply, Gecko! I feel a little jipped now after hearing about your experience. I think I may just set the thing up and see how it runs. If there is anything wrong I'll make sure that they pick it up and handle the exchange. Are there any telltale signs that I should look for as a result of a possible rough delivery (as opposed to the benign "tape popped open" story they were telling)? I'm very newbish when it comes to these things and I'm not exactly sure what to expect when I first turn the thing on (as far as how things _should_ look).


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ja30278* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> 
> loooong time lurker. Great forum with lots of information (even if that means a ton to sort through)
> 
> 
> I've run up against what seems to be a common dillema. I'm looking to upgrade my current standard def 27" trinitron to a moderately priced HDTV; my basic considerations:
> 
> 
> 1.) My living room is fairly small, perhaps 7.5 ft from couch to TV, with some windows (although not too brightly lit)
> 
> 
> 2.) My use will be split..perhaps 20% video games, 20% dvds and the rest a mix of SD and HD.
> 
> 
> The videogame use has fairly well disqualified both plasma and dlp (for burn-in and sync issues respectively). I've never particularly cared for crt rptv's, the small viewing angles were too much for me. I can't afford a front projector (and don't have the right space even if I could). This leaves me with a choice of LCD (panel or projection) and CRT.
> 
> 
> I've seen what the 960 can do, and there's no question that the image is superior to anything else on the market, but a few issues cause me to hesitate:
> 
> 
> 1.) The size: this is basically a horizontally stretched 27" television. I'm finding hard to justify spending 1700 without gaining much apparent screen size. Can anyone comment on the upgrade from 27-34? Were you pleased or disappointed with the size of this set?
> 
> 
> 2.) resolution: without getting into a tech war, can someone clarify how the XBR handles 720P signals? I'm getting an XBOX 360, and I understand that many games will run in 720P. Obviously I wouldn't make a TV purchase based just on how a game console performed, but in this specific case, would a display who's resolution was natively (or close to it) 720P perform better?
> 
> 
> 3.) Weight: I know that this TV is heavy, but how much of a problem is this for furniture? will I be stuck using the hideous (at least to my wife) Sony stand? or be forced to buy some heavy duty media stand?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance



Hi JA,


I had the same reservations about how much more picture size a 34" widescreen would provide compared to tthe letterbox of my 32" 4x3. On paper, it did not seem like much, but when it was delivered it was a huge difference!


Our viewing distance is about 7-1/2 feet which is perfect for us. You can even be closer and will not note any distoration. Due to it's bulky size, the front of the set will be further into the room than standard TVs, so if the back is placed an extra six nches off the wall it can reduce your nine foot viewing distance without diminishing the decor of the room.


It is very heavy and many stands might bulk from the weight. We use the custom made stand and it really blends in nicely with the set - my wife liked it too! The stand itself is not too difficult to put together and if you decide to purchase it I suggest having the stand delivered before the 960 so the set can be placed on it by the delivery men (there are holes which the legs of the set slide into and a strap on the back to secure it to the stand - it also makes it easier for sliding the set out when needing to get to the back).


I do not know how the picture quality will be on video games, however, I can attest that VHS and standard broadcast pictures come in better (it might be better to view non-HD cable through an input other than HDMI). When my brother was over he was concerned about the top and bottom parts of his video games being cut off. He saw that the picture was cropped perfectly and in stretch mode the vertical height could be adjusted and nothing cut off.


Hope this helps with your decision,

Joe


----------



## liquidneba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Smith* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> 
> So nearly a month has gone by since my last update on the trailing issue, and I am in need of assistance/advice and any thoughts you may have.
> 
> 
> For those familiar with the issue, skip this paragraph. For those who have not heard of it, I'll get you up to speed quickly on what the problem is. On any video input with any signal, there appears to be trails behind moving objects on the screen. The easiest spots to see this issue in is dark background, light foreground, fast motion, high-contrast scenes. Examples would be a hand/arm moving quickly across the screen, a panning shot with lights in it, etc. Another example is pretty much any moderately paced scrolling credits. While these scenes are the easiest to identify the issue in, they can be seen in less extreme circumstances and the effect is a blurring of the image in motion. When there are extremely slow or static images on the screen, the set is phenomenal. The only problem the TV is exhibiting is this trailing/ghosting issue.
> 
> 
> Now for a bit of history...
> 
> 
> This television initially had a CableCard problem, so the q-box was replaced (basically the box that has all the inputs and outputs plus the cablecard slot). That repair was not related to the trailing/ghosting issue.
> 
> 
> I then began the process of dealing with the trailing issue in May. The service center ordered and installed a B/Y board (not sure if that's the right name, but basically it is a line doubler). The problem did not go away.
> 
> 
> Approximately a month ago I contacted the servicer again to come out and look at the television again. He saw the problem, commented "wow, it's worse than I thought" and left to consult with Sony. More than a week later (after several back and forths), they called me and said that "Sony has determined your television is defective and this is not a repairable issue. You need to call Sony service to get your television replaced." They gave me the phone number and I did as I was told...
> 
> 
> I called Sony, and they claimed I needed an event ID. The servicer didn't give me one. We tried looking it up via serial number. No luck. Then phone number. No luck. Then servicer. No luck. After 30 minutes, they found my television, but only had documentation on the q-box replacement. I outlined the whole situation to them, they created a new event ID, and I was told I would receive a call-back within 24-48 hours.
> 
> 
> The next day I got an e-mail that said 24-48 hours again, pushing it back a day. When the 48 hours elapsed, still no call back. To save you the blow-by-blow of the next three weeks, let me summarize:
> 
> - I was promised at least 12 different callbacks throughout this process, most of which with the 24-48 hour stipulation. Not even once did I actually receive a callback. Not even a late callback. I never received a promised call back.
> 
> - They claimed the servicer would not answer their phones for over two weeks.
> 
> - They then claimed the servicer would not talk to them about my television.
> 
> - They then claimed there was no record of the findings of the servicer. Rinse and repeat above steps.
> 
> - All of this time I was calling to talk to the servicer, who claimed they can see all of their notes attached to my television and event id in Sony's system. In addition, they *never received a call from Sony*.
> 
> - Finally, last week, the CS agent (level 2) finally agreed to try calling the servicer herself. She then claimed that the servicer said there was no problem with my television, and that they hadn't even seen the problem. Of course, a quick call to the servicer reveals another side of the story... Sony was the one who flip-floped. They just told them what they saw on the television.
> 
> - I spoke to a CS supervisor, and was stonewalled.
> 
> 
> So at that point, over the course of three weeks, over 8 hours on hold, no callbacks, etc. etc., Sony flip-flopped from "This TV is defective" to "This TV is operating normally." My only recourse now was through the retailer who sold it to me...
> 
> 
> I went into the retailer, explained the situation, explained to them that I did not see it in their floor model and they agreed to replace the television with their warranty company (thank goodness for extended warranty plans).
> 
> 
> The television was delivered yesterday, but they refused to give me the manual. I don't know the serial number and manufactured date until I pull the unit back out from the wall. I turned it on, set all the normal setting you change (Pro and Monitor) and let it sit on Discovery HD for a couple hours to get the set warmed up. Then came the moment of truth: toss in a reference DVD I was using to test the issue and....
> 
> *Same problem! GRRRRR!*
> 
> 
> So now my questions are as follows:
> 
> 1) This is a popular television among calibrators. If this is "normal" for this set, I'd think it would not be popular among them. They are likely more visually picky than I am. Can anyone speak to this?
> 
> 2) I've only seen *one* note other than my own of this issue in the nearly 70 pages of posts here in this thread. Has anyone else seen it? (refer to the scene examples earlier in this post for reference material ideas -- I have used Star Wars, Battlestar Gallactica, 24, The West Wing, and more...)
> 
> 3) What are my options now?
> 
> 
> This has been my worst customer experience ever, and while I love this television, I am having major second thoughts.
> 
> 
> I appreciate any and all advice or thoughts all of you could provide.
> 
> 
> Thanks and best regards,
> 
> Brad



Brad and I are both battling this issue. So to update my side of the saga!










A little background: My XBR960 has been experiencing a "phosphor decay" problem. For example, I'm watching the credits of a movie ending, as the credits move up on the screen, I can see the "ghost" of the wording as it moves up the screen, this lasts for about 0.25 to 1/3 of a second. But the spec for this should be in the ms range, or less. Anyway back to future, err, the story.


After describing my problem to a level 2 Sony Tech, they faxed over a work request to my "Sony authorized service facility" where I live. The guy came (7/6/05) and replaced the B-Y board, which handles some of the video-processing

for the set. The set still showed this ghosting problem (on all inputs, HD, SD, everything!)


Anyway fast-forward to 9/9/05. (Busy, on vacation, work, women, etc.) Another tech (friendly, experienced, smart, my age) from my "Sony authorized service facility" comes over to verify the problem. It took him a little while, but once I pointed out what was happening he saw it very easily too. Afterward, he wrote down on the service call receipt, "Verified problem with unit. Believe CRT is problem. Will call Sony and call customer...." He called me back a few days later after talking to his special Sony Tech help line. After carefully describing the problem, the Sony Tech believed it also was the CRT, but to be absolutely sure, he authorized another replacement board.


Fast forward to 9/23/05. My tech comes over and replaces the M-Z board which handles video processing as well. Well, you guessed right, no luck (just as I thought). He wrote down on this service receipt, "Installed part did not solve problem. Need to call Sony and call customer..." My guy told me that next thing Sony might try to have him do, would be to change the Q-Box. Remember Brad Smith had his Q-Box changed for cable-card issues, and it didn't affect the ghosting one bit. If Sony decides to go down that route, it's not going to change anything except waste another week in the football season and really cement that the CRT is defective. I honestly don't care if Sony in the end decides to "repair or replace the Product," (according to the limited warranty) as long as everything works good, afterward. So right now, I'm waiting for my tech to get back to me after talking to Sony on a path-forward. Will update the thread as soon as I know.


A few rules that everyone should follow. Always be nice to your Sony Techs on the phone, always be nice to your service facility techs too. They really appreciate it, it also doesn't hurt if you have some outside interests to talk about with your tech, as I've found out. Document everything!!!!! Names, event ID #s, save receipts, have the tech write down what he thinks, because if it isn't documented, then it didn't happen. This all solves a lot of potential problems down the road. Remember, "it's easier to catch flies with honey than with vinegar."


your XBR960 comrade in arms,



PS. My tv was experiencing overscan issues, the tech changed it the service menu, but in doing that I think he messed up the focus on the left side. Didn't notice until after he left. Instead of a white line in a static image for example I'm seeing a green line, which is surrounded by a red line on one side and blue line on the other. (Not very noticeable, and I'm not going to worry about it right now, this is just a service tweak to reposition the guns I think.) Except the ghosting, the screen is beautiful, watching HD is spectacular, can't wait to have it calibrated! The line to borrow Q's XBR960 starts behind me!!!!!


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi Brad and Liquidneba,


Just wanted to say I'm sorry the problems with your sets have yet to be resolved by technicians. The only thought I have (and it's remote at best) is that the retailers are dealing with returned merchandise. Are the stores reputable? I am sure you both have already considered this as a possibility.


Let us know how things turn out.


All the best,

Joe


----------



## liquidneba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Brad and Liquidneba,
> 
> 
> Just wanted to say I'm sorry the problems with your sets have yet to be resolved by technicians. The only thought I have (and it's remote at best) is that the retailers are dealing with returned merchandise. Are the stores reputable? I am sure you both have already considered this as a possibility.
> 
> 
> Let us know how things turn out.
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Joe




Thanks Joe! Brad told me that he got it at a local retailer. My TV was originally bought brand new from Circuit City.


----------



## Jon S

Brad,

has anyone checked the voltage at your house? Is it feeding 120V or less?


----------



## Brad Smith

I have not. I shall see what I can do. Would that affect it if it was less?


----------



## njt

Sorry to hear of your experiences liquid and Brad. Appreciate the advice to document, document, document. Hopefully it's a moot point for me (knock on wood). I'm suprised after multiple tech visits that they don't consider swapping the set. I wonder if this raises the value of a store warranty (like CC or BB)? Sounds like Sony really puts you through the mill before pulling the trigger on a set swap.


----------



## Mike99

Gecko85,


You stated: "It's nearly impossible to have burn in on my 960." Why is that? I always thought CRT phosphors were susceptible to burn in.


Burn in is a concern of mine since so many programs are 4:3 and I prefer black pillar box bars to a stretched image. Hence there will be a lot of time where the CRT sides are not exposed to moving images.


Mike


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Gecko85,
> 
> 
> You stated: "It's nearly impossible to have burn in on my 960." Why is that? I always thought CRT phosphors were susceptible to burn in.
> 
> 
> Burn in is a concern of mine since so many programs are 4:3 and I prefer black pillar box bars to a stretched image. Hence there will be a lot of time where the CRT sides are not exposed to moving images.
> 
> 
> Mike



It's not impossible to get burn-in, but believe me, to get burn-in on a set like this would require deliberate and insane stupidity on someone's part, for many hours and days on end.


Example: Throw the contrast and brightness to the max, put the TV in 4:3 pilar box mode, and put in on a station with just fuzzies and leave it like that for days on end and you MIGHT get some burn-in.


----------



## liquidneba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry to hear of your experiences liquid and Brad. Appreciate the advice to document, document, document. Hopefully it's a moot point for me (knock on wood). I'm suprised after multiple tech visits that they don't consider swapping the set. I wonder if this raises the value of a store warranty (like CC or BB)? Sounds like Sony really puts you through the mill before pulling the trigger on a set swap.




It's all up to Sony Customer Service. According to my tech, Sony tries three repair attempts, for a particular problem then they'll swap. Btw. I got off the phone with my local authorized Sony tech. He spoke again to Sony Tech, they told him to switch the W-Y board after trying the B-Y, and M-Z boards, which is the "inner" board on the neck of the CRT. So if this board doesn't do the trick, then for me it would constitute the third repair attempt on the set. If that turns out to be the case, I'll be calling Sony Customer Service, for a new set. Btw. CC has a similar policy, three repair attempts. I personally don't blame Sony... they are trying to fix the problem. Obviously they want to keep their costs down from replacing a set, if its just a board problem. Partly it's my own fault for dragging it out too. I really hope it works (this time, finally). Then I'll get my set ISFed, and I'll be a happy clam, once more!


----------



## Gecko85




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It's not impossible to get burn-in, but believe me, to get burn-in on a set like this would require deliberate and insane stupidity on someone's part, for many hours and days on end.
> 
> 
> Example: Throw the contrast and brightness to the max, put the TV in 4:3 pilar box mode, and put in on a station with just fuzzies and leave it like that for days on end and you MIGHT get some burn-in.



Exactly. Perhaps I should have said: "Under normal viewing conditions, it's nearly impossible to get burn in..." (Normal viewing conditions being the key.)


----------



## Joseph Dubin




Q of BanditZ said:


> to get burn-in on a set like this would require deliberate and insane stupidity on someone's part, for many hours and days on end.
> 
> 
> Hi Q,
> 
> 
> Let's take a roll call and see how many of us fit that description! LOL.


----------



## bobhoppel

Does anyone know how to reset the cablecard on the 960? My Qualia has a reset option in the menu but the 960 does not. Any help would be appreciated!!


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bobhoppel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone know how to reset the cablecard on the 960? My Qualia has a reset option in the menu but the 960 does not. Any help would be appreciated!!



Go into the menu and select Advanced Video then select Cablecard then select Reset


----------



## bobhoppel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Go into the menu and select Advanced Video then select Cablecard then select Reset



My cablecard is under the Application part of the menu -- not under the Advanced Video. My 960 has no reset box under the "Show" box when you access the cablecard menu, like my Qualia has. Sony tech support just told me there is no way to reset the cablecard in the 960, unless you reset the whole TV. I am reluctant to reset the 960 back to the factory defaults since I had my set calibrated last spring.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bobhoppel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My cablecard is under the Application part of the menu -- not under the Advanced Video. My 960 has no reset box under the "Show" box when you access the cablecard menu, like my Qualia has. Sony tech support just told me there is no way to reset the cablecard in the 960, unless you reset the whole TV. I am reluctant to reset the 960 back to the factory defaults since I had my set calibrated last spring.



Definitely different than mine.


Talk to the person that calibrated your TV and ask if the changes will go back to the factory settings if the TV is reset.


----------



## mr2828

I think my 960 may have the trailing issue. I've had it for almost a year now and don't recall noticing it previously, but yesterday I was watching the credits scroll on Curb Your Enthusiasm and boom I see the trailing. I also noticed it a bit while rewatching the season premier ep of Lost a couple of days ago - near the end of the ep Jack is looking around in the dark with a flashlight and it seemed to trail.


Maybe the trailing was always there and it's like digital compression artifacts - you don't notice it at first, but once you do notice it you can't stop noticing it.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr2828* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think my 960 may have the trailing issue. I've had it for almost a year now and don't recall noticing it previously, but yesterday I was watching the credits scroll on Curb Your Enthusiasm and boom I see the trailing. I also noticed it a bit while rewatching the season premier ep of Lost a couple of days ago - near the end of the ep Jack is looking around in the dark with a flashlight and it seemed to trail.
> 
> 
> Maybe the trailing was always there and it's like digital compression artifacts - you don't notice it at first, but once you do notice it you can't stop noticing it.



Since you are under the warranty, it won't hurt to have a technician come and check it out to ease your mind.


Is it only an occasional case of trailing? If so, it may not be the 960. Often HD programs aren't mastered properly which causes trailing and other artifacts. For example, we've experienced digital breakup on HBO during episodes of The Sopranos which did not occur on the previous or following program. Saturday baseball broadcasts on FOX are not always crystal clear except for super-imposed printing. We've seen pictures freeze on Starz and Encore while the audio continued.


Try watching credits on a DVD you are familiar with - if it doesn't happen then, it's a good chance your set is ok.


----------



## AndyorKen

How are "old" theater released movies broadcast on HDTV ?


I realize that shows like Letterman and sporting events can be "saved on tape" or "live" and go out as a high definition signal. Here the original media would have been high definition quality I guess.


However, what about "old" theater movies? Are they broadcast from a "regular 480i" DVD disk media from some kind of advanced DVD player ?


Some movies that are only available on DVD in the [2.35 : 1] format appear as (16:9) full screen from the networks. But, they do not appear to have any better PQ than my DVD of the movie on my HDTV.


Thanks in advance for any information.


----------



## BTV Mark




AndyorKen said:


> How are "old" theater released movies broadcast on HDTV ?
> 
> 
> However, what about "old" theater movies? Are they broadcast from a "regula 480i" DVD disk media from some kind of advanced DVD player ?
> 
> 
> QUOTE]
> 
> 
> 35 mm film has incredibly high resolution--much superior to HDTV. And of course many prime-time TV programs have been shot on film for decades. So there is a huge library of "HD ready" content available. These films merely need to be transferred to HD and recorded on HD videotape recorders or video servers to make them available as HD content.
> 
> 
> On the other hand, programs originally shot on SD with electronic cameras (sports, some sitcoms, reality shows) will never be able to be upconverted to HD because the native resolution isn't there.
> 
> 
> Mark


----------



## Schyler

If this has been answered, I apologize. I searched, but found nothing.


My old low-def Sony TV had a button on the remote that allowed you to easily turn captions on and off.


I can find no similar feature on my 34XBR960. Sometimes I can't make out a line, and I want to turn captions on briefly to find out what was said, but it is a long, menu diving process to turn them on, then you have to do it again to turn them off.


Any ideas?


----------



## Ladd

I was just trying to figure that out on my new XBR960 last night -- and if there is a solution, I couldn't find it. As with you, I'm hoping a more experienced owner might proffer a tip ...


----------



## AndyorKen

Thanks Mark - Your response got me to thinking - Telecine is how they do it !


As to the PQ, there are so many variables invovled unless you know exactly how and what is being broadcast it is really a mute point.


Thanks again.


Ken


----------



## mr2828

I don't think there is a quicker way to do the captions. Also be aware that with HDTV the caption decoding takes place where the HD signal is decoded, which isn't necessarily the tv set if you're using a DVR or other external box. I wanted to see the captions last night on CSI: NY and had to enable them on my cable DVR instead of the tv.


----------



## JohnGZ28

My front speakers are about 9" from the set. I turned off my DVD player and noticed a very small purple-ish bowing in the lower left corner of the screen. I can only see it when the screen turns blue after stopping a DVD.


My speakers are shielded but this is causing a slight concern. Any one else have their speakers this close?


----------



## njt

Quick question regarding the video inputs. I've labeled the two that I use (DVD and Cable Box) and labeled the others as "skip". This is great as I don't have to toggle through 7 inputs when switching between DVD and Cable, however there is an input that I can't seem to skip. I believe it is the currently unused coax input that I was getting cable on (before CV could come out and install the box.


So now when I toggle the TV/Video button I go from Cable Box (Input 7/HDMI) to DVD (Input 5/component) to static, and then over again. It's awesome having only 3 selections, but I'm wondering if it's possible to "skip" the unused coax input even though it isn't listed in the menu mentioned above.


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My front speakers are about 9" from the set. I turned off my DVD player and noticed a very small purple-ish bowing in the lower left corner of the screen. I can only see it when the screen turns blue after stopping a DVD.
> 
> 
> My speakers are shielded but this is causing a slight concern. Any one else have their speakers this close?



The guy at the Sony Store I visited said their demo 960 had the same issue and they were using Sony shielded speakers as well. So... my guess would be that this is the cause.


Is moving them farther an option? I currently keep each (unsheilded) speaker about 5 feet from the set edge. Also just wanted to confirm that you mean inches (sorry... big Spinal Tap fan here







).


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The guy at the Sony Store I visited said their demo 960 had the same issue and they were using Sony shielded speakers as well. So... my guess would be that this is the cause.
> 
> 
> Is moving them farther an option? I currently keep each (unsheilded) speaker about 5 feet from the set edge. Also just wanted to confirm that you mean inches (sorry... big Spinal Tap fan here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).



Not really I'm up against a wall on the left front and a fireplace on the right front. I can probably go an 1" more.


Yes I did mean inches.


----------



## Gecko85




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Quick question regarding the video inputs. I've labeled the two that I use (DVD and Cable Box) and labeled the others as "skip". This is great as I don't have to toggle through 7 inputs when switching between DVD and Cable, however there is an input that I can't seem to skip. I believe it is the currently unused coax input that I was getting cable on (before CV could come out and install the box.
> 
> 
> So now when I toggle the TV/Video button I go from Cable Box (Input 7/HDMI) to DVD (Input 5/component) to static, and then over again. It's awesome having only 3 selections, but I'm wondering if it's possible to "skip" the unused coax input even though it isn't listed in the menu mentioned above.



If you're using a learning remote, you can program in the discreet input codes. (I your remote doesn't accept advanced codes, then you can pick up an inexpensive remote that does, then use it to "teach" your other remote. I use an old Radio Shack 1994 remote....check hifi-remote.com, and the remotes section of AVS for suggestions.) Here's a link to the advanced codes for Sony televisions: http://www.hifi-remote.com/cgi-bin2/ueic.cgi?TV_0000 


The only code I haven't been able to find is a code for Video 7. The codes listed only go up through Video 6. Anyone know of the code for Video 7?


Once you've programmed in the codes, you can press whatever button you teach for each input, and it'll switch directly to that input...no need to cycle through them.


----------



## Bambler

I mentioned in a previous post within this thread that, while everything is great, the picture slightly bowed in the upper left corner of my TV (hardly noticeable, but it's there).


Well, after rearranging the room and moving the TV, the bowing went away! I didn't unplug the TV while I moved it...I just rotated the stand and shoved it back to another wall. The position and location (with respect to the TV) of external electronic components never changed. Anyone know why the position of the TV would affect geometry anomalies?? Or am I just hallucinating???


----------



## ttenrag

Well I just took the plunge after MONTHS of research. Yes, I ordered my XBR960 today from CC. Had a budget of $3,000, but I couldn't find a better picture in that price range.


My real reason for tapping in is to enquire about calibration. I am wondering if som eXBR owners would like to share how they have their XBR calibrated (color, tint, sharpness, etc...). Any help would be great.


----------



## mr2828




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bambler* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I mentioned in a previous post within this thread that, while everything is great, the picture slightly bowed in the upper left corner of my TV (hardly noticeable, but it's there).
> 
> 
> Well, after rearranging the room and moving the TV, the bowing went away! I didn't unplug the TV while I moved it...I just rotated the stand and shoved it back to another wall. The position and location (with respect to the TV) of external electronic components never changed. Anyone know why the position of the TV would affect geometry anomalies?? Or am I just hallucinating???



I've read previously that supposedly the TVs are dialed in at the factory while facing DUE WEST. So putting the set facing west or east may be better than north or south. But it won't make a huge difference usually.


----------



## Bambler

Thanks for the info. It's facing south now, btw, it was facing east prior to me rotating it. Well, whatever happened, I'm glad I moved it







.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've labeled the two that I use (DVD and Cable Box) and labeled the others as "skip". This is great as I don't have to toggle through 7 inputs when switching between DVD and Cable



I didn't realize this could be done -- I've looked through the menus and must be missing where the video inputs can be named and/or skipped.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My front speakers are about 9" from the set. I turned off my DVD player and noticed a very small purple-ish bowing in the lower left corner of the screen. I can only see it when the screen turns blue after stopping a DVD.
> 
> 
> My speakers are shielded but this is causing a slight concern. Any one else have their speakers this close?



Hi John,


I also saw on your follow-up post that the most you can have is a ten inch separation from your speaker to the 960. While I am not an audio expert I do have three thoughts.


1) Even for shielded speakers this could be too close if they are floor mounted with a heavy magnet. Can the speakers be moved further back and the set a little further forward? This can add an extra few inches which should do the trick. Subwoofers must also be at least two feet away.


2) Is this noticable during TV viewing? If only on DVD, position the player further away from the speaker since magnetism might interfere with the player's video output.

3) Do you have computer equipment right by the set? While the 960 can be used as a PC monitor I had to slightly reposition my WebTV internet box used for a different set because it caused slight discoloration. BTW, the bookshelf speakers for that set are maybe 18 inches away but I have no color distortion problems.


Again, any way to muscle in a few extra inches would probably eliminate the distortion you have. If the problem persists, a sony technician can easily clear the discoloration caused by the magnetic field.


Hope these suggestions help.


- Joe


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I didn't realize this could be done -- I've looked through the menus and must be missing where the video inputs can be named and/or skipped.



Menu>Setup(2nd from bottom)>Label Video Inputs>Program


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LongRufus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Menu>Setup(2nd from bottom)>Label Video Inputs>Program



Well that seems obvious. Yesterday must have been my "not the sharpest tool in the drawer" day ...


----------



## bre30127




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ja30278* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> 
> loooong time lurker. Great forum with lots of information (even if that means a ton to sort through)
> 
> 
> I've run up against what seems to be a common dillema. I'm looking to upgrade my current standard def 27" trinitron to a moderately priced HDTV; my basic considerations:
> 
> 
> 1.) My living room is fairly small, perhaps 7.5 ft from couch to TV, with some windows (although not too brightly lit)
> 
> 
> 2.) My use will be split..perhaps 20% video games, 20% dvds and the rest a mix of SD and HD.
> 
> 
> The videogame use has fairly well disqualified both plasma and dlp (for burn-in and sync issues respectively). I've never particularly cared for crt rptv's, the small viewing angles were too much for me. I can't afford a front projector (and don't have the right space even if I could). This leaves me with a choice of LCD (panel or projection) and CRT.
> 
> 
> I've seen what the 960 can do, and there's no question that the image is superior to anything else on the market, but a few issues cause me to hesitate:
> 
> 
> 1.) The size: this is basically a horizontally stretched 27" television. I'm finding hard to justify spending 1700 without gaining much apparent screen size. Can anyone comment on the upgrade from 27-34? Were you pleased or disappointed with the size of this set?
> 
> 
> 2.) resolution: without getting into a tech war, can someone clarify how the XBR handles 720P signals? I'm getting an XBOX 360, and I understand that many games will run in 720P. Obviously I wouldn't make a TV purchase based just on how a game console performed, but in this specific case, would a display who's resolution was natively (or close to it) 720P perform better?
> 
> 
> 3.) Weight: I know that this TV is heavy, but how much of a problem is this for furniture? will I be stuck using the hideous (at least to my wife) Sony stand? or be forced to buy some heavy duty media stand?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance



Well... I've asked the "how does the 720p conversion work" question several times and never got an answer.


Well I now have the TV and the best thing I can tell you is that when I switch from Fox (720) to CBS or ABC (1080i) I can't tell a difference. Also, the 720p games that came out on xbox 1 were fantastic. So I am having no doubts about buying a xbox360.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ttenrag* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well I just took the plunge after MONTHS of research. Yes, I ordered my XBR960 today from CC. Had a budget of $3,000, but I couldn't find a better picture in that price range.
> 
> 
> My real reason for tapping in is to enquire about calibration. I am wondering if som eXBR owners would like to share how they have their XBR calibrated (color, tint, sharpness, etc...). Any help would be great.



Welcome to the 960 club. Add one more day to your MONTHS of research and research this thread. There are a number of post with initial setup settings.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi John,
> 
> 
> I also saw on your follow-up post that the most you can have is a ten inch separation from your speaker to the 960. While I am not an audio expert I do have three thoughts.
> 
> 
> 1) Even for shielded speakers this could be too close if they are floor mounted with a heavy magnet. Can the speakers be moved further back and the set a little further forward? This can add an extra few inches which should do the trick. Subwoofers must also be at least two feet away.
> 
> 
> 2) Is this noticable during TV viewing? If only on DVD, position the player further away from the speaker since magnetism might interfere with the player's video output.
> 
> 3) Do you have computer equipment right by the set? While the 960 can be used as a PC monitor I had to slightly reposition my WebTV internet box used for a different set because it caused slight discoloration. BTW, the bookshelf speakers for that set are maybe 18 inches away but I have no color distortion problems.
> 
> 
> Again, any way to muscle in a few extra inches would probably eliminate the distortion you have. If the problem persists, a sony technician can easily clear the discoloration caused by the magnetic field.
> 
> 
> Hope these suggestions help.
> 
> 
> - Joe



Thanks for the suggestions.


I'll try setting them back an inch or two. The wall to the left is an exterior wall so there will be no muscling it out of the way.










The speakers are P-digm studio 60s and they do have a pretty hefty magnet.


The only time I see it is if I stop a DVD during play back and the screen turns blue for a few seconds before going blank.


----------



## Mike99

I went to a Sony Style store today to look at the 34XBR960. They were feeding it a 480i signal, along with other CRT sets. I asked to see what it look likes on HD, but they could not do. They told me they did not have any component connections hooking the set to the back room where all their signals come from. Bummer.


The salesperson said the 960 had flicker when displaying HD. He said every technology had pros & cons. The plus side was the 960 had great resolution. Unfortunately I was not able to view HD on this set.


Has anyone experienced HD flicker on the 960?


Mike


----------



## petej88




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ttenrag* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well I just took the plunge after MONTHS of research. Yes, I ordered my XBR960 today from CC. Had a budget of $3,000, but I couldn't find a better picture in that price range.
> 
> 
> My real reason for tapping in is to enquire about calibration. I am wondering if som eXBR owners would like to share how they have their XBR calibrated (color, tint, sharpness, etc...). Any help would be great.



Professional calibration and Pro mode is popular with the hard core folks.


If you choose not to have professional calibration done for now, I recommend the following settings to give you a good starting point. The following settings give my XBR beautiful pictures in HI DEF and STANDARD DEF, the latter being very important to me for the next few years. I have not seen std def pictures on other tv's (including some very expensive ones) that come close to the quality of my XBR.


Standard (the same settings are different in each mode because of the circuitry)

picture: 34

bright: 42

color: 27

hue: 0

sharp: 31

temp: cool

VM: high (the hard core folks will balk at this but it makes std def look fantastic and does not adversely affect hi def on my XBR; A calibration is another matter with this setting









color axis: default (the skin tones on most stations look better to me. You may prefer monitor -- your choice).


What amazes me about my XBR is that everything looks so good. The contrast is amazing and I can see the details in dark scenes amazingly well. Love it. I actually sold my 50" LCD rear projection to buy the 34" XBR. Qaulity is more important to me than picture size. Your mileage may vary.


Have fun.


----------



## petej88




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I went to a Sony Style store today to look at the 34XBR960. They were feeding it a 480i signal, along with other CRT sets. I asked to see what it look likes on HD, but they could not do. They told me they did not have any component connections hooking the set to the back room where all their signals come from. Bummer.
> 
> 
> The salesperson said the 960 had flicker when displaying HD. He said every technology had pros & cons. The plus side was the 960 had great resolution. Unfortunately I was not able to view HD on this set.
> 
> 
> Has anyone experienced HD flicker on the 960?
> 
> 
> Mike



If you get a good hd source, there is no flicker. Sounds like you should go to another store that might have a sales person that knows what they are talking about.


----------



## Mike99

petej88,


Does that mean that some not-so-good HD may exhibit flicker? For example HD via cable, instead of OTA.


Mike


----------



## Yamahog

How do I get standard definition channels to "stretch" so that I eliminate the black bars on the sides of the screen? When I used Time Warner Cable's STANDARD cable box, I could eliminate the bars, but since I received their hi-def cable box, the only way to "fill out" the screen is when watching a hi-def channel.


----------



## petej88




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> petej88,
> 
> 
> Does that mean that some not-so-good HD may exhibit flicker? For example HD via cable, instead of OTA.
> 
> 
> Mike



I'm currently using Comcast Cable and have never seen flicker. I've seen pixelation, etc from bad input occasionally. I'm wondering if your sales person was mixing up HI def with 480i input when he was talking about flicker? That's what I think.


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mike99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I went to a Sony Style store today to look at the 34XBR960. They were feeding it a 480i signal, along with other CRT sets. I asked to see what it look likes on HD, but they could not do. They told me they did not have any component connections hooking the set to the back room where all their signals come from. Bummer.
> 
> 
> The salesperson said the 960 had flicker when displaying HD. He said every technology had pros & cons. The plus side was the 960 had great resolution. Unfortunately I was not able to view HD on this set.
> 
> 
> Has anyone experienced HD flicker on the 960?
> 
> 
> Mike



I had the same experience at a Sony Style store in Northern NJ. All sets were hooked up to an HD source except for the CRTs. Worse still it was a loop of some seasme street clip and you couldn't play another DVD to check out quality. It was a shame too, bc you couldn't compare the HD signal on a960 to the plasmas and RP LCDs. I found 6th Ave Electronics and Best Buy (Magnolia) to be the best about letting you switch to HD and/or a DVD you know well.


As for flicker... can't say that I have seen that on 1080i (e.g., YES HD) or 720p (e.g., ESPN HD) sources. Football looked stellar last night and baseball broadcasts were made for HD/16:9... just beautiful.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My front speakers are about 9" from the set. I turned off my DVD player and noticed a very small purple-ish bowing in the lower left corner of the screen. I can only see it when the screen turns blue after stopping a DVD.
> 
> 
> My speakers are shielded but this is causing a slight concern. Any one else have their speakers this close?



John, I had a similar problem. In my case, the purple spot WAS there continuously, but it was hard to see under certain conditions.


Due to space limitations, I decided not to move anything. I was able to eliminate the blur by unplugging the TV for 15 minutes, plugging it back in, and turning it on. The de-gaussing circuitry took care of the problem. (No, I don't know why it didn't fix the problem without going through the unplugging process. The set de-gausses each time it turns on. Regardless, the purple spot disappeared and I'm a happy camper.)


Mark


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BTV Mark* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> John, I had a similar problem. In my case, the purple spot WAS there continuously, but it was hard to see under certain conditions.
> 
> 
> Due to space limitations, I decided not to move anything. I was able to eliminate the blur by unplugging the TV for 15 minutes, plugging it back in, and turning it on. The de-gaussing circuitry took care of the problem. (No, I don't know why it didn't fix the problem without going through the unplugging process. The set de-gausses each time it turns on. Regardless, the purple spot disappeared and I'm a happy camper.)
> 
> 
> Mark



Thanks. I moved a 1/2 inch to the left and back an inch and that seems to have taken care of it.


----------



## Mike99

njt,


Sounds like the same setup at the Sony store I went to. It too was Sesame Street or Muppets on all CRTs.


Stopped at Tweeter yesterday, but no 960 on display. Will check out Fry's later this week.


Mike


----------



## njt

Had a bt of a scare last night and am wondering if it was the same experience a few mentioned in pages above. Was watching Monday night football and the screen flashed black. The image then became wavy and purple in tint before the screen turned off (and then the red led started flashing).







Initially suspected a cable problem or power surge (thiough no other devices including lamps showed an effect).


Turned the TV back on, it came up for a second, turned purple/wavy and then shut off and the led started flashing again.

















Remebered reading something about the red light, resetting, degaussing (sp?) from this thread, searched and let the TV sit unplugged for 2 min. Set came back with a bit of a minute flicker for a min or two but has been fine since. Anyone else have a similar experience?


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Had a bt of a scare last night and am wondering if it was the same experience a few mentioned in pages above. Was watching Monday night football and the screen flashed black. The image then became wavy and purple in tint before the screen turned off (and then the red led started flashing).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Initially suspected a cable problem or power surge (thiough no other devices including lamps showed an effect).
> 
> 
> Turned the TV back on, it came up for a second, turned purple/wavy and then shut off and the led started flashing again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remebered reading something about the red light, resetting, degaussing (sp?) from this thread, searched and let the TV sit unplugged for 2 min. Set came back with a bit of a minute flicker for a min or two but has been fine since. Anyone else have a similar experience?



Has not happened on my 960 but did happen on my 30XS and I hope it doesn't happen again.


----------



## iamhives

Go easy one me - new HD user here !


Just received my KD34XBR960 and have to say its incredible - but not getting picky and trying to refine my setup!. Have read and searched through this huge thread and found some hints to my questions below but want to verify my understanding


Couple of questions:


1) Trying to optimize my SD image which isn't bad but after watching HD it doesn't cut it. i have a 8300HD cable box/DVR and enabled all of the output formats. TV is connected via HDMI. I'm thinking I might be able to improve the SD image quality by using a different input via composite for Sd vs input 7 via HDMI? Also this would allow different video settings for the seperate input allowing optimization for SD vs the one used for HD. Am I right in understanding that over HDMI all image are upconverted to 1080i on the Sony so SD looks grainy vs viewing SD on a component input at 480 resolution (my understanding is the Sony is native 480p and 1080i and converts anything else (720) to 1080i. Is my understanding correct. Any other tips in my situation?


2) Another option to solve question 1 above. The 8300HD has a Pass through option with composite only - if I use composite then I could set this to pass through and then 480 will not be upconverted and hence be better while 1080 is obviosuly fine and the Sony would upconvert 720?


3) Originally had the TX hooked up with component. Recently added HDMI cable. Now everything seems sharper but perhaps too contrasty and darker even with brightness pushed up and setting up video settings seems more difficult and I can't get it quite right. Component somehow seemed "smoother" and brighter. Am I seeing properly - any recommendations - should I go back to component? or perhaps someone can suggest suggested settings - using pro, monitor, neutral etc


Any other tips given my equipment and setup?


Great forum and thread !


----------



## gigaguy

I got my 960 in July and have been doing the same type adjustments. Just got an HDMI cable a week ago and hooked it up to my SA 8300 box too. SD looks better thru component, haven't tried composite. The more I turn Sharpness down to 0, the better the picture looks in any mode, takes away graininess.


I don't have many other specifics to offer but sounds like you are on the right track. I'm probably gonna return my 8300, I mostly got it to watch some HBO and the show is over, it cuts off lots of recordings too early, I don't watch all these digital channels it offers, and will save $35 on cable. Most all the network HD channels come over standard cable anyway, I don't need the 8300 box for HD. Will miss the Hi-def recording tho.

good luck.


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has not happened on my 960 but did happen on my 30XS and I hope it doesn't happen again.



Seemed to be a one off issue (fingers crossed). Set performed as normal during 4 hours of baseball last night and I couldn't notice any flaws.


I'm right on the 30 day cusp so I suppose warranty liability will switch from BB to Sony if this becomes a recurring issue.


----------



## Fuzzyphi

I've found that sd looks pretty good if you run coax directly to the TV. I have it split coming out of the wall. One going to the TV. The other to the cable box.


----------



## DyeLooper

Curious: What is the Super Fine Pitch that Sony talks about. Anyone now the size. I have a 38" RCA that has a awesome picture and they say it's a pitch of .78mm


DyeLooper


----------



## Joseph Dubin

I use the S Video input for non-HD since it seems video settings for HD need to be different from those for standard broadcast. This also allows me to take advantage of the wide-stretch mode.


----------



## richardbk

Couple of newbie questions from someone who just sold their LD collection and never saw a DVD with progressive scan before! All DVDs are movies. My aim is to have the settings as Video Essentials 'right' as possible, short of professional calibration (which I'll have done in a few months):


1. I just got the new NS90V DVD player, connected with HDMI cable. I assume the "HDMI Resolution" setting on the DVD player should be on the default setting, AUTO ("the player outputs video signals of the highest resolution acceptable for your TV"), and not on one of the other settings (1920x 1080i, or 1280x 720p, or 720x480p). Yes?


2. On the DVD player, BRN (Block Noise Reduction) and MNR (Mosquito Noise Reduction) should be set to the OFF (the default settings). Is that right?


3. To watch an old 4:3 movie in its original format (not stretched), I believe I have to, surprisingly, change the "4:3 Output" setting on the DVD player, which has both the default FULL setting ("select this when you can change the aspect ratio on your TV"), and NORMAL ("select this when you CANNOT change the aspect ratio on your TV. Shows a 16:9 aspect ratio signal with black bands on left and right sides of image"). I started with the default FULL setting, but then there was no setting on the xbr960 that would display a normal 4:3 picture. So I changed the DVD player setting to NORMAL, which solves the problem.


But my question is, why won't the xbr960 recognize a 4:3 DVD? Doesn't it seem odd that the 34xbr960 wouldn't be one of the sets Sony had in mind when they said "when you can change the aspect ratio on your TV". The set's "SCREEN MODE" offers only the High-Definition settings (Full, Zoom, Horizontal Expand and Vertical Expand), as if the TV thinks I'm playing a 16:9 DVD.


4. On the DVD player, you can select the CUSTOM PICTURE MODE. STANDARD is the default ("displays a standard picture"), but there are 4 other modes, including CINEMA 1 ("enhances details in dark areas by increasing the black level") and CINEMA 2 ("white colors become brighter and black colors become richer and the color contrast is increased"). Then, under HINT, it says "When you watch a movie, CINEMA 1 or CINEMA 2 is recommended". Which setting should I use, following "Video Essentials" thinking?


Sorry for the length! And thanks.


----------



## Gecko85

The XBR will only change aspect ratio for non-HD inputs. You'll need to output it at 4:3 ("normal") just like you said. If you were, say, using the S-Video input on the XBR, then the TV's controls would work.


----------



## richardbk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gecko85* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The XBR will only change aspect ratio for non-HD inputs. You'll need to output it at 4:3 ("normal") just like you said. If you were, say, using the S-Video input on the XBR, then the TV's controls would work.



Thanks, I get it now.


----------



## JOgden

Does anyone know (I have not yet looked in the book) if I can set the settings for each video input? Such as Full & Pro for video 5 and wide zoom for cable? That way I wouldn't have to switch everytime?


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JOgden* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone know (I have not yet looked in the book) if I can set the settings for each video input? Such as Full & Pro for video 5 and wide zoom for cable? That way I wouldn't have to switch everytime?



Answered in your other thread, but here it is again:


Menu>Video>Advanced Video>Program>ModeMemory>Choose On or Off


----------



## liquidneba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *liquidneba* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Brad and I are both battling this issue. So to update my side of the saga!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little background: My XBR960 has been experiencing a "phosphor decay" problem. For example, I'm watching the credits of a movie ending, as the credits move up on the screen, I can see the "ghost" of the wording as it moves up the screen, this lasts for about 0.25 to 1/3 of a second. But the spec for this should be in the ms range, or less. Anyway back to future, err, the story.
> 
> 
> After describing my problem to a level 2 Sony Tech, they faxed over a work request to my "Sony authorized service facility" where I live. The guy came (7/6/05) and replaced the B-Y board, which handles some of the video-processing
> 
> for the set. The set still showed this ghosting problem (on all inputs, HD, SD, everything!)
> 
> 
> Anyway fast-forward to 9/9/05. (Busy, on vacation, work, women, etc.) Another tech (friendly, experienced, smart, my age) from my "Sony authorized service facility" comes over to verify the problem. It took him a little while, but once I pointed out what was happening he saw it very easily too. Afterward, he wrote down on the service call receipt, "Verified problem with unit. Believe CRT is problem. Will call Sony and call customer...." He called me back a few days later after talking to his special Sony Tech help line. After carefully describing the problem, the Sony Tech believed it also was the CRT, but to be absolutely sure, he authorized another replacement board.
> 
> 
> Fast forward to 9/23/05. My tech comes over and replaces the M-Z board which handles video processing as well. Well, you guessed right, no luck (just as I thought). He wrote down on this service receipt, "Installed part did not solve problem. Need to call Sony and call customer..." My guy told me that next thing Sony might try to have him do, would be to change the Q-Box. Remember Brad Smith had his Q-Box changed for cable-card issues, and it didn't affect the ghosting one bit. If Sony decides to go down that route, it's not going to change anything except waste another week in the football season and really cement that the CRT is defective. I honestly don't care if Sony in the end decides to "repair or replace the Product," (according to the limited warranty) as long as everything works good, afterward. So right now, I'm waiting for my tech to get back to me after talking to Sony on a path-forward. Will update the thread as soon as I know.
> 
> 
> A few rules that everyone should follow. Always be nice to your Sony Techs on the phone, always be nice to your service facility techs too. They really appreciate it, it also doesn't hurt if you have some outside interests to talk about with your tech, as I've found out. Document everything!!!!! Names, event ID #s, save receipts, have the tech write down what he thinks, because if it isn't documented, then it didn't happen. This all solves a lot of potential problems down the road. Remember, "it's easier to catch flies with honey than with vinegar."
> 
> 
> your XBR960 comrade in arms,
> 
> 
> 
> PS. My tv was experiencing overscan issues, the tech changed it the service menu, but in doing that I think he messed up the focus on the left side. Didn't notice until after he left. Instead of a white line in a static image for example I'm seeing a green line, which is surrounded by a red line on one side and blue line on the other. (Not very noticeable, and I'm not going to worry about it right now, this is just a service tweak to reposition the guns I think.) Except the ghosting, the screen is beautiful, watching HD is spectacular, can't wait to have it calibrated! The line to borrow Q's XBR960 starts behind me!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -From another message-
> 
> It's all up to Sony Customer Service. According to my tech, Sony tries three repair attempts, for a particular problem then they'll swap. Btw. I got off the phone with my local authorized Sony tech. He spoke again to Sony Tech, they told him to switch the W-Y board after trying the B-Y, and M-Z boards, which is the "inner" board on the neck of the CRT. So if this board doesn't do the trick, then for me it would constitute the third repair attempt on the set. If that turns out to be the case, I'll be calling Sony Customer Service, for a new set. Btw. CC has a similar policy, three repair attempts. I personally don't blame Sony... they are trying to fix the problem. Obviously they want to keep their costs down from replacing a set, if its just a board problem. Partly it's my own fault for dragging it out too. I really hope it works (this time, finally). Then I'll get my set ISFed, and I'll be a happy clam, once more!



The final episode in the trailing saga!











My tech came out on Monday to replace the W-Y board. No luck... So he wrote down on my copy of the work repair that he believes that the unit was defective. He advised me to call SONY.


After work I did just that, I called SONY Customer Service, a level 3 rep answered the call. I described to him what happened. He pulled up my info based on my TV's serial #. I told him that 4 visits and 3 repair attempts did not solve my problem, and that I wanted a new set. He gave me an event ID #, then he bumped me up to a Level 2 rep. After giving the Level 2 rep my information, and giving him a chance to read the case history, he told me that he would contact another rep in the service center who handles this kind of situation and that I should expect a phone call in 48hrs. The first time this "Level 1" rep calls me he calls my house but not my cell. He gets in touch with me again the next day.


Anyway he has my whole file and tells me that he needs to get some more detail from the local service center, on the problem they saw and the work performed. Once he has all that information as well he forwards it to the Regional Technical Representative who makes the final decision if a set is defective. So it takes 6 people to replace a set, me, my service tech, 3 people in Customer Service and the Technical Rep.










I call back the next day, (they leave your their phone number and extension) that the technical representative will respond back with a decision to either, exchange the set, have the set fixed, or give me credit. I tell my guy to call me as soon as the tech. rep. has made a decision (it takes up 72 business hours). Anyway I get a call today, from my guy he tells me the set is going to be exchanged!!!







All I have to do is fax the purchase receipt, which I promptly do. I thank him for taking care of the matter, in a timely fashion. I let him know that I want a brand new set, not a refurb. (he notes in my request to the Procurement Department). I give him one more call a little while ago to finish any loose ends. I let him know that I want the TV to be setup so I can test that it doesn't have any issues before I let them leave. He's ok with that! So he already started the process. The warehouse is in Pennsylvania so with any luck within the next two weeks I'll be breaking in a new XBR960!










PS I'm already working with Brad, since he has a similar problem. If anyone has this issue send me a PM!


----------



## mr2828

Cool - looking forward to your followup on the new one to see if it really is different, or whether this is an inherent issue with all these sets.


----------



## Newport_Racer

My power went out today and the clock has disappeared from the bottom right of the screen. I know this is lame, but how the heck do I reset the clock?


Thanks!


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Newport_Racer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My power went out today and the clock has disappeared from the bottom right of the screen. I know this is lame, but how the heck do I reset the clock?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Menu>Applications>Clocks/Timers>Program>Current Time


----------



## DyeLooper

Finally,

Well today was the day, I said to myself, lets call around and see if someone has a Sony TV I want. The first BB I called had three, it was 60 miles away so I had to call back for them to actually go and verify they had it in the storeroom before I would drive down there, they had 3 (Cool).

They have been going for 1889.00 at BB, but I asked anyways how much. They were on sale this week for 1709.00. Go figure, I got really lucky. Checked the flyer and it wasn't even in the flyer. To top things off I got a 10% coupon in the mail today. The sale was ending today and I had to get there quickly, they closed in a few hours. I live in MD but bought it in Delaware, TAX FREE. I got a great deal I think.

I have read this thread for awhile now and have gathered alot of information about which TV to buy next, it was definitely the KD-34XBR960. Only have it hooked to the house antenna so far but the picture is unbelievable. I've had the RCA F38310 38" HDTV in my basement for the last 3 1/2 years and it is exceptional, the XBR is out of this world. LCD/Plasma can't touch either of these machines. The only way I will get rid of these is to step up to SED if it's everything they say it will be.

I know I have some tweaking to do on the picture. Would love to have it professionally calibrated, any suggestions? Any other suggestions for improvements on a great TV are welcomed. Still need a new Direct TV HDTV Receiver, thoughts? Another satisfied customer, WooHooo.


DyeLooper


----------



## Gecko85




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DyeLooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Would love to have it professionally calibrated, any suggestions?



Congrat's on a great set, and welcome to the club.










You can find an ISF trained technician in your area on the ISF website:

http://www.imagingscience.com/isf-trained.cfm 


In the meanntime, take it out of Vivid mode! You may even want to pick up an Avia or Digital Video Essentials DVD (check Amazon...)


Enjoy your new set.


----------



## hancox

I got mine done by Gregg at http://www.lionav.com 


He owns a 960 himself, so he knows the TV inside and out.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DyeLooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I know I have some tweaking to do on the picture. Would love to have it professionally calibrated, any suggestions? Any other suggestions for improvements on a great TV are welcomed. Still need a new Direct TV HDTV Receiver, thoughts? Another satisfied customer, WooHooo.
> 
> DyeLooper



Welcome to the club.


I had Chuck Williams calibrate mine. Unfortunately he's moved out of the Bmore/Wash area. If a few more people in the MD area want to get their's done we may be able to get Chad, who did Q's 960, to make a tour stop in the area.


In the mean time do a search in the tread for some setting suggestions.


----------



## YOTR

Well I went and looked at this set again last night. I am currently trying to decide between the 960, 42A10, and the Bravia 32" XBR1. I admit, the image on the 960 is stunning and easily beats out the other two. I didn't want another heavy tube set but it looks like I might have to break down and do it. I just hope (and pray) I don't have a lot of the issues that are reported here with the 960. I would be getting this through sony themselves for a credit on my old tv, so returning it would be a pain. At least I would have the 2 year warranty though! Plus I think this set would be an excellent choice when the PS3 launches.


----------



## danchilders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DyeLooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Finally,
> 
> They have been going for 1889.00 at BB, but I asked anyways how much. They were on sale this week for 1709.00. Go figure, I got really lucky. Checked the flyer and it wasn't even in the flyer. To top things off I got a 10% coupon in the mail today. The sale was ending today and I had to get there quickly, they closed in a few hours. I live in MD but bought it in Delaware, TAX FREE. I got a great deal I think.




That is a fantastic deal, I wish I could find something like that. I have been waiting to pounce on this TV for about a month now, I told myself if I ever see it below $1800 I'd bite. Circuit City had it for $1809 a few weeks ago and that almost did it. My local Best Buy doesn't have them in stock (but can order them). I have been following the BB and Circuit City websites and in store flyers every week hoping for a deal, but this price didn't come up on the website or in the ad, as you mentioned. I'd prefer an ad because I have a local dealer that will price match and they have excellent customer service (they automatically service everything they sell--no warranty needed). If I ever come across that sort of deal, there will be one more XBR owner on this board. I have set my deadline for the end of November, so hopefully I will see something by then.


Dan


----------



## DyeLooper




> Quote:
> Welcome to the club.
> 
> 
> I had Chuck Williams calibrate mine. Unfortunately he's moved out of the Bmore/Wash area. If a few more people in the MD area want to get their's done we may be able to get Chad, who did Q's 960, to make a tour stop in the area.
> 
> 
> In the mean time do a search on in the tread for some setting suggestions.




What would something like this cost? I might be in. I live in Cecil County, MD


DyeLooper


----------



## silent_man

Quick question: Do any users have an Xbox hooked up to this set via the HD component cables? I've been playing games in 480p and they don't look so hot. While sharp, they are extremely jaggy and in some cases, particle effects (like the smoke pouring from vents in Doom 3) are pixelated or show visible lines. Is this more a result of the Xbox and the specific games, or is there something going on with my set? I'm assuming it has something to do with 480p, as the one game I own that supports 1080i looks fantastic... Maybe my old SD set was simply so low resolution that I didn't notice these flaws, hehe.


----------



## pdroth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *silent_man* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Quick question: Do any users have an Xbox hooked up to this set via the HD component cables? I've been playing games in 480p and they don't look so hot. While sharp, they are extremely jaggy and in some cases, particle effects (like the smoke pouring from vents in Doom 3) are pixelated or show visible lines. Is this more a result of the Xbox and the specific games, or is there something going on with my set? I'm assuming it has something to do with 480p, as the one game I own that supports 1080i looks fantastic... Maybe my old SD set was simply so low resolution that I didn't notice these flaws, hehe.



I do, and the 480p games look better than using S-video, but still don't look so hot. A real 1080i game looks fantastic though, although there are only a handful out there right now. The XBOX 360 will have every game in HD.


----------



## DyeLooper












Help,

Having problems with the convergence on the lettering/and some pics on my new 960, am using DTV as my source and am hooked up via S-cable right now. HDMI and new HD box to follow shortly. Picture should be better though, YES?


Any suggestions?


DyeLooper


----------



## silent_man

Thanks for the reply, pdroth. Sounds like it's not my set then. The 1080i games do look great, so I can't wait to see Xbox 360 games running on this thing! Should be beautiful.


----------



## danchilders

So I finally did it. Long story short, after running around to two big chains and one small electronics store I used a 10% any in store TV coupon for Best Buy and got Circuit City to Price Match the online price for Best Buy (which is about $100 cheaper than in store) for me on Open Box XBR960. The total price before tax came to $1624.60. Not as great as DyeLooper's deal, but not too bad (almost $300 off current Retail).


I would have rather bought at the smaller local dealer, but he had three strikes against him.


1) He backed out on doing the 10% off the online price after calling Best Buy (apparently they told him different than they told me about matching the coupon w/ the online price).


2) He started talking about offering "his warranty" for cheaper than the other guys. This despite the fact that the last time I was in the store he hit me with a "we service what we sell" pitch. I guess he only "services what he sells" to those who pay retail...


3) He did not have the TV in stock.


Had any one of those three factors not been true, I would probably still have bought from him. As is, I will just have to cross my fingers regarding the display model (which looked good in store) and hope my set turns out ok so I don't have to play telephone tag with Sony reps for the next few months.


At any rate, I'm glad to have it done so I can move on to being ambivalent and undecisive about other more important things.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DyeLooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What would something like this cost? I might be in. I live in Cecil County, MD
> 
> 
> DyeLooper



Anywhere from $250-$450.


----------



## DyeLooper

Thanks JohnGZ28 ,

I've found some other settings and have not tried them yet, I'm sure they will work out. I am really concerned about the convergence issue I have with the unit. Is this something I can fix by going into setup menu? Do I wanna do this? or is this for someone else? Technician? Talked to Sony tech and they stated convergence cant be adjusted, I'm not buying it.


Any Advice anyone.


DyeLooper


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DyeLooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks JohnGZ28 ,
> 
> I've found some other settings and have not tried them yet, I'm sure they will work out. I am really concerned about the convergence issue I have with the unit. Is this something I can fix by going into setup menu? Do I wanna do this? or is this for someone else? Technician? Talked to Sony tech and they stated convergence cant be adjusted, I'm not buying it.
> 
> 
> Any Advice anyone.
> 
> 
> DyeLooper



If you go into the service menu KenTech's thread (Sony Service Codes) in this forum and UMR's thread (UMR does GWIII) in the Rear Projection forum are must reads first.


----------



## rustycruiser

Sorry for the cross post


I just finished reading this all the posts in this thread. I came across a number of posts that had the same problem I am having. with my 34XS955. The problem is that the digital tuner doesn't come on when I power the TV on from a cold start. The TV turns on, but the screen is blank on all OTA channels, and says "no signal". The analog tuner still works, but the picture on it is degraded. If I power the TV on and off, most times the digital tuner will turn on and I will get all the OTA channels.


Has anybody who has had this problem had their 34XBR960 repaired? Any idea what the repaired? Or have they just replaced it?


----------



## DyeLooper

Well 1st I would like to thank everyone for there help about this great tv







. Secondly, I feel somewhat of a fool







.

We were having furniture delivered this week and I wanted to wait to get the TV incase it did not fit our new Entertainment center (It was a brand new model from Bassett and they had no internal dimensions). But this past weekend I decided to call around and got a 10% coupon from BB, they had the TV and I was saving nearly $$ 500.00. If it didnt fit I would take it back. GUESS WHAT, it don't fit.







DAMN!! So I'm taking it back this Friday, unless: There is anyone local to Baltimore/Wilmington, DE that would want it for what I paid, also has a 4 yr extended warranty. Want the final price, you can email me at [email protected] , 1st come first served. CASH ONLY!! I did mention in the forum that I think there may be a slight convergence problem. It may just be DTV reception on SD. Who knows. If you are interested, e--mail me. Otherwise the unit goes back on friday morning. Once agin, I appreciate the help. Now just have to figure out what small Plasma/LCD I'm gonna end up with. I do have a 38" RCA CRT in the basement, least I have a good picture somehwere.


DyeLooper


----------



## JOgden




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *silent_man* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply, pdroth. Sounds like it's not my set then. The 1080i games do look great, so I can't wait to see Xbox 360 games running on this thing! Should be beautiful.



That depends on your settings. I have mine set to Standard for Xbox and I have turned the brightness down, sharpness down and some other things. Halo 2 and Splinter Cell 3 looks great. If you want my settings, let me know and I'll give you the exact settings.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rustycruiser* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry for the cross post
> 
> 
> I just finished reading this all the posts in this thread. I came across a number of posts that had the same problem I am having. with my 34XS955. The problem is that the digital tuner doesn't come on when I power the TV on from a cold start. The TV turns on, but the screen is blank on all OTA channels, and says "no signal". The analog tuner still works, but the picture on it is degraded. If I power the TV on and off, most times the digital tuner will turn on and I will get all the OTA channels.
> 
> 
> Has anybody who has had this problem had their 34XBR960 repaired? Any idea what the repaired? Or have they just replaced it?



Same thing happens to me at times, however, I believe it has something to do with the HD cable box. When a station is first tuned on via the cable box, the cable company also has it's name, etc appear at the bottom of the screen for a few seconds. Sometimes I get nothing, but by turning the box off and on once more, the signal comes through. Occasionally, the information bar appears with just a black screen; when going to another channel through the cable box the picture then comes on.


Joe


----------



## high def mon

I have found this Sony KD34XBR960 on line for $1,369.00 new in a box + shipping of $159 to Colorado. I would like to share this site with the forum but alass I don't have enough posts! I have also found this set locally for $1,400 used, no box or shipping mat. not sure about the warranty. It's about 90 miles round trip and I have a truck. WHAT WOULD YOU DO?


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *high def mon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have found this Sony KD34XBR960 on line for $1,369.00 new in a box + shipping of $159 to Colorado... WHAT WOULD YOU DO?



I would go to the website ResellerRatings.com and see what other folks have to say about the company. Then, while still at ResellerRatings.com, check out the reviews for Crutchfield, which offers free shipping and white-glove customer service.


Also make it clear to your local Circuit City and Best Buy that you are serious about purchasing the set and what is their final offer on selling you the set complete with delivery and setup. Compare all the prices and services offered and determine in your own mind the risk/reward scenario of "What do you do if something goes wrong and you have to exchange the set".


I'm sure all of us here will be happy to offer additional advice when you ask specific questions. Shop Away!


----------



## Lonnie

Hello,



Has anyone noticed the Channel labels dissappear for Comcast cable channels using Cable Card? I have a Sony KD-34XBR960. I noticed last week that The Call Letters for the channels are not showing, just the channel Number. I can enter them manually but who would want to do that for 300 channels? I have talked with Sony and Comcast with no explaination.


Thanks,


Lonnie


----------



## lsfrankel

I noticed many posters here are listing their cost for their 34XBR960 so I thought I'd contribute my 2 cents. Actually it was a bit more than 2 cents-$1528.88 plus tax plus $49.88 white glove delivery. I bought the two year extended warranty ($118) but if I have no problems by day 29, that goes back for a refund as allowed by Georgia law. This was bought 10/2/05. No gimmicks, friends, connections, etc.


----------



## silent_man




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JOgden* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That depends on your settings. I have mine set to Standard for Xbox and I have turned the brightness down, sharpness down and some other things. Halo 2 and Splinter Cell 3 looks great. If you want my settings, let me know and I'll give you the exact settings.



Yeah, I'd be interested to hear what settings you use for the Xbox.


----------



## rustycruiser




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rustycruiser* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry for the cross post
> 
> 
> I just finished reading this all the posts in this thread. I came across a number of posts that had the same problem I am having. with my 34XS955. The problem is that the digital tuner doesn't come on when I power the TV on from a cold start. The TV turns on, but the screen is blank on all OTA channels, and says "no signal". The analog tuner still works, but the picture on it is degraded. If I power the TV on and off, most times the digital tuner will turn on and I will get all the OTA channels.
> 
> 
> Has anybody who has had this problem had their 34XBR960 repaired? Any idea what the repaired? Or have they just replaced it?



I had a service technician stop by the house today. After fooling with the TV for a few minutes, he said he has to replace the q-box on it. Unfortunately, he did not have one with him, so he will have to make a return visit. Sucks, I now have to take a second day off work for a brand new $$$ TV that should not have such issues.


Anybody had their q-box replaced? I have seen references to it getting replaced when the cable card won't function. Quick job, or will I have to take a whole day off?


Thanks


----------



## ttenrag

Well, I did months of research on TV's with a budget of $3,000 and chose to buy the XBR960. I recieved it about a week ago and couldn't be happier (unless there was a 40inch model...)The HD picture is absolutely amazing....much better than anything I have seen in the stores. This Tv really shines when the lights are off! I thought I would just post some comments and observations from someone who was very picky and restless about which TV to buy.


First let me say that I was a bit concerned that this set would not be big enough, but these TV's are always bigger in your home than in the store. I think a 37 or 40 inch would be perfect, but I am very happy with the 34inch. I looked at all of the available sets in the 40inch range and I would have paid $1,000 more for a more inferior pic quality...just wasn't worth it to me for a slightly bigger TV screen.


Second, the sound on this set is fantastic. I had no idea the built in stereo speakers would sound so good. I have an Onkyo reciever w/ Polk 5.1 and find myself thinking they are on when they are not on.


I used the Avia disc for calibration and I seem to have found a pic that I can live with. I do have a question. Many people set the VM to off, but I seem to like it at Medium......any thoughts???


Tongiht I bought a nice Acoustic Research surge protector after reading about how much interference comes through a home outlet. I can only say one thing after I connected everything through the surge protector....WOW! I didn't think I would see or hear a difference, but I was wrong. The picture is MUCH better (clearer), and before the protector I had a buzzing sound from the back of the TV (only audible from the rear) and now it is completely gone. The protector I bought has an in and out for the cable wire as well. I can't believe it, but the pic is really better.....much better.


My DVD player is not a proggressive scan player, and I am wondering if I should wait and buy a HD-DVD player or should I buy something like the Panasonic S97 right now?


In conlcusion I would like to say that this TV is a great picture for the money. Nothing in this price range even comes close in terms of picture quality. Spend the extra money and get the good cables and surge protector. I will write more later and post pics. BTW, I am sitting about 9 feet from the set and I think it is perfect. If I really wanted a cinematic experience I would just spend the $8 and go to the movies.


----------



## lsfrankel

Can anyone tell me why I lose the closed captioning on my HD channels when using the cable card and when using the cable box connected via component inputs, but retain the captioning on the same exact channels when using the cable box via the RF connection to the VHF/UHF input? I figured it's too late tonight to call Sony but not too late for this spot.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ttenrag* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My DVD player is not a proggressive scan player, and I am wondering if I should wait and buy a HD-DVD player or should I buy something like the Panasonic S97 right now?



I am also a new XBR 960 owner, about a month now. I have a low/mid-priced DVD player (JVC XVN40 purchased at Sam's Club for $70) that offers progressive scan and I have found that the picture looks slightly crisper when player's progressive scan is turned off and the TV does the work.


I know little about the whole subject and just assume that the circuitry in the TV is better than the circuitry in the DVD player when comparing the player's 480i vs 480p output.


So it might not be critical for you to run out an immediately purchase a DVD player if you are planning on replacing it when HD or BR DVD becomes available.


I'm sure others here are WAY more knowledgable than me on this subject though.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lsfrankel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can anyone tell me why I lose the closed captioning on my HD channels when using the cable card and when using the cable box connected via component inputs, but retain the captioning on the same exact channels when using the cable box via the RF connection to the VHF/UHF input? I figured it's too late tonight to call Sony but not too late for this spot.



It wouldn't surprise me if it's a limitation of the Cable Card.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ttenrag* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I did months of research on TV's with a budget of $3,000 and chose to buy the XBR960. I recieved it about a week ago and couldn't be happier (unless there was a 40inch model...)The HD picture is absolutely amazing....much better than anything I have seen in the stores. This Tv really shines when the lights are off! I thought I would just post some comments and observations from someone who was very picky and restless about which TV to buy.
> 
> 
> First let me say that I was a bit concerned that this set would not be big enough, but these TV's are always bigger in your home than in the store. I think a 37 or 40 inch would be perfect, but I am very happy with the 34inch. I looked at all of the available sets in the 40inch range and I would have paid $1,000 more for a more inferior pic quality...just wasn't worth it to me for a slightly bigger TV screen.
> 
> 
> Second, the sound on this set is fantastic. I had no idea the built in stereo speakers would sound so good. I have an Onkyo reciever w/ Polk 5.1 and find myself thinking they are on when they are not on.
> 
> 
> I used the Avia disc for calibration and I seem to have found a pic that I can live with. I do have a question. Many people set the VM to off, but I seem to like it at Medium......any thoughts???
> 
> 
> Tongiht I bought a nice Acoustic Research surge protector after reading about how much interference comes through a home outlet. I can only say one thing after I connected everything through the surge protector....WOW! I didn't think I would see or hear a difference, but I was wrong. The picture is MUCH better (clearer), and before the protector I had a buzzing sound from the back of the TV (only audible from the rear) and now it is completely gone. The protector I bought has an in and out for the cable wire as well. I can't believe it, but the pic is really better.....much better.
> 
> 
> My DVD player is not a proggressive scan player, and I am wondering if I should wait and buy a HD-DVD player or should I buy something like the Panasonic S97 right now?
> 
> 
> In conlcusion I would like to say that this TV is a great picture for the money. Nothing in this price range even comes close in terms of picture quality. Spend the extra money and get the good cables and surge protector. I will write more later and post pics. BTW, I am sitting about 9 feet from the set and I think it is perfect. If I really wanted a cinematic experience I would just spend the $8 and go to the movies.



Congrats on the new set - like the rest of us, you're gonna love it!


When talking to a Sony service representative I was advised NOT to use a surge protector, even though it is not stated so in the manual and Sony sells these themselves. She advised me to have it plugged directly into the wall socket. I've been doing that ever since just to play it safe.


- Joe


----------



## GLX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> When talking to a Sony service representative I was advised NOT to use a surge protector, even though it is not stated so in the manual and Sony sells these themselves. She advised me to have it plugged directly into the wall socket. I've been doing that ever since just to play it safe.
> 
> 
> - Joe



What an oxymoron. Tell me, how do you plan on keeping the TV safe from surges or other related problems?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Congrats on the new set - like the rest of us, you're gonna love it!
> 
> 
> When talking to a Sony service representative I was advised NOT to use a surge protector, even though it is not stated so in the manual and Sony sells these themselves. She advised me to have it plugged directly into the wall socket. I've been doing that ever since just to play it safe.
> 
> 
> - Joe




All I have to say this rankly poor advice you were given:































She should have just put away the pretense and told you outright: "Please don't protect your TV so you can have easy damage happen sooner and then hopefully buy another one...from us, of course"










Joe, you're a smart guy. I can't believe your most BASIC instinct didn't recoil immediately at the sound of this "advice."


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ttenrag* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Second, the sound on this set is fantastic. I had no idea the built in stereo speakers would sound so good. I have an Onkyo reciever w/ Polk 5.1 and find myself thinking they are on when they are not on.



I forgot to mention this during my review. I am stunned by the quality of the sound. I had this TV delivered on the day I moved into a new apartment. For a good week or two I didn't have a stereo set up and relied solely on the 960. I enjoyed movies and even a concert video or two. Now I'm glad to have my full AV setup, but it really was adequate.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I forgot to mention this during my review. I am stunned by the quality of the sound. I had this TV delivered on the day I moved into a new apartment. For a good week or two I didn't have a stereo set up and relied solely on the 960. I enjoyed movies and even a concert video or two. Now I'm glad to have my full AV setup, but it really was adequate.



Agreed. VERY respectable "stock" sound, for sure.


----------



## bobhoppel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Congrats on the new set - like the rest of us, you're gonna love it!
> 
> 
> When talking to a Sony service representative I was advised NOT to use a surge protector, even though it is not stated so in the manual and Sony sells these themselves. She advised me to have it plugged directly into the wall socket. I've been doing that ever since just to play it safe.
> 
> 
> - Joe



The advice might not be that bad. Here's what happens----when you first turn your 960 on there is a huge surge of current for the degausser circuitry. If your surge protector limits that current in any way you will only get a partial degaussing which can really screw up your picture. I know --- I learned the hard way. I solved this by getting a huge battery backup system that protected me from outside voltage variations and also could handle the 960's huge initial surge turn on. Hope this has been helpful.


Bob W.


----------



## triumph66

What size battery backup system are you using Bob?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bobhoppel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The advice might not be that bad. Here's what happens----when you first turn your 960 on there is a huge surge of current for the degausser circuitry. If your surge protector limits that current in any way you will only get a partial degaussing which can really screw up your picture. I know --- I learned the hard way. I solved this by getting a huge battery backup system that protected me from outside voltage variations and also could handle the 960's huge initial surge turn on. Hope this has been helpful.
> 
> 
> Bob W.



That's a very good point.










Hmmm, I'll second the question: What battery backup are you using?


----------



## bobhoppel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *triumph66* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What size battery backup system are you using Bob?




I currently use an APC UPS 2200, which is way overkill. I had it because I used it to supply backup to four different computers. I have been told the APC Back-UPS RS 1500VA works great and costs around $200 (vs $1200 for the 2200.) I had previously used a surge protector and then an APC 620 and they both limited the degausser. So it's plug it straight into wall or use a battery backup that has at least a 1200 VA rating so you can supply at least an instantaneous 10 amps to the degausser when you turn your 960 on. Hope this helps!!


----------



## bobhoppel

The Belkin 1100 VA model might be OK too. There use to be a coupon code that gave half off. I think it was " friend of Belkin" but I am not sure. It was listed in the early days of the Qualia Owners thread. Don't even know if it is still valid.


----------



## triumph66

Thank you for the reply Bob.


So, IYO, which of these would be more appropriate for the job?

http://www.apcc.com/resource/include...m?base_sku=H15 

http://www.apcc.com/resource/include...ase_sku=BR1500


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ttenrag* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tongiht I bought a nice Acoustic Research surge protector after reading about how much interference comes through a home outlet. I can only say one thing after I connected everything through the surge protector....WOW! I didn't think I would see or hear a difference, but I was wrong. The picture is MUCH better (clearer), and before the protector I had a buzzing sound from the back of the TV (only audible from the rear) and now it is completely gone. The protector I bought has an in and out for the cable wire as well. I can't believe it, but the pic is really better.....much better.



Just wait till you add a $1000 power cord. It really comes alive then.

















Congrats on the purchase.


----------



## bobhoppel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *triumph66* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thank you for the reply Bob.
> 
> 
> So, IYO, which of these would be more appropriate for the job?
> 
> http://www.apcc.com/resource/include...m?base_sku=H15
> 
> http://www.apcc.com/resource/include...ase_sku=BR1500





The Power conditioner is the best because it outputss sine waves(60 Hz). The other unit is gopod too, but it outputs square waves(60 Hz). You could see a difference using the "conditioner" if you have a real high end audio system otherwise the cheaper one should do just fine for supporting the 960's initial appetite for current..


----------



## ttenrag

Now I am confused about the use of a surge protector. Considering the problem that bobhoppel mentioned...I am wondering if I should plug the TV directly into the wall, and use the surge protector for everything else, including the in/out for the cable wire?


What do you guys think?


----------



## GLX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ttenrag* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now I am confused about the use of a surge protector. Considering the problem that bobhoppel mentioned...I am wondering if I should plug the TV directly into the wall, and use the surge protector for everything else, including the in/out for the cable wire?
> 
> 
> What do you guys think?



You can still get surges through the TV's power cord.


----------



## danchilders

I used an AVIA disc but since I am very much a neophyte at this sort of video adjustment, I was unsure of what "looked right" on many of the test patterns. The tests themselves are fairly easy to understand, but I guess it was just that I lack trained eye to notice the subtle adjustment differences I was aiming for (and I know they are not "subtle" to many of you, who have been tinkering with this sort of thing for a while).


However, when I went back and switched everything over to the suggested "starting point" settings people recommended in this thread (Pro, Monitor, Brightness & Picture in high -s-low 40's, Sharpness around 20 etc.), I ended up being very happy with the results. I watched Pink Floyd's "The Wall" last night on it in HD and it was amazing. First time I really noticed a very obvious jump in quality from my old analog Wega which this set was replacing.


I'm also now really looking forward to seeing the 360's stuff on this set, because the current gaming stuff (evein the 480P stuff) seems to look a bit worse than on my old set. Ninja Gaiden, for example, looks very grainy whereas before it looked smooth and crisp. But I was aware of this before purchase, I really bought it for films and for the new upcoming systems and I think I'm going to be rather happy with its performance for both of those things.


Dan


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ttenrag* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now I am confused about the use of a surge protector. Considering the problem that bobhoppel mentioned...I am wondering if I should plug the TV directly into the wall, and use the surge protector for everything else, including the in/out for the cable wire?
> 
> 
> What do you guys think?




It was only by chance that I found out the 960 should not be plugged into a surge protector.


I called Sony service because there was no video or audio after the power went on (this was rectified). When instructed to unplug it for five minutes I casually mentioned I disconnected it from a surge protector. At that point I was told not to use a surge protector and have the set plugged directly into the wall. Reading bobhoppel's post I now also understand the reason why.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *danchilders* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I used an AVIA disc but since I am very much a neophyte at this sort of video adjustment, I was unsure of what "looked right" on many of the test patterns. The tests themselves are fairly easy to understand, but I guess it was just that I lack trained eye to notice the subtle adjustment differences I was aiming for (and I know they are not "subtle" to many of you, who have been tinkering with this sort of thing for a while).
> 
> 
> However, when I went back and switched everything over to the suggested "starting point" settings people recommended in this thread (Pro, Monitor, Brightness & Picture in high -s-low 40's, Sharpness around 20 etc.), I ended up being very happy with the results. I watched Pink Floyd's "The Wall" last night on it in HD and it was amazing
> 
> Dan



Hi Dan,


I'm the same, nervous and insecure way when it comes to what a picture should really look like. This past week I experimented with the vidid mode and found it improved the picture quality for all connections (HD, SD, DVD and VHS). While I loved the picture beforehand I compared these to my stored settings in "movie" mode and found them more life-like. I used a THX optomizer for my DVD settings and adjusted the other inputs appropriately for the same effect.


If you're interested, these are my latest settings (subject to change without notice, of course):


VIDEO 7 (HD): vivid, 32, 19, 32, R2, 11, warm, high, default on.


VIDEO 5 (component DVD): vivid, 20, 31, 29, R2, 19, warm, high, cinemotion, Palette 61, 54, default on.


VIDEO 4 (VHS): Vivid, 29, 17, 22, R2, 23, warm, low, cinemotion, Palette 82/81, default on.


VIDEO 1 (Standard Cable S Video): Vivid, 32, 26, 23, R2, 21, warm, low, interlaced, Palette 60/1, Default on.


Only with DVD is the brightness actually higher than the picture setting. Could be because there are separate brightness settings for 4x3 and widescreen monitors on the player.


What do you and others on this thread think?


Best,

Joe


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Dan,
> 
> If you're interested, these are my latest settings (subject to change without notice, of course):
> 
> 
> VIDEO 7 (HD): vivid, 32, 19, 32, R2, 11, warm, high, default on.
> 
> 
> What do you and others on this thread think?
> 
> 
> Joe



Let me start by saying that what looks best to you on your TV is how it should be set up.


When I got mine Vivid mode looked awful. Didn't even try to adjust it, went straight to Pro mode and tweaked from there.


Now that my set has been ISF'ed I took a look at Vivid after reading your post. Other than the need to put on some sunglasses to keep from being blinded it didn't look too bad. Much better than the OTB look. The NASCAR race went from a night race to a day race in Vivid mode.


Do a search in this thread for some settings in Pro mode and try them out.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *danchilders* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sharpness around 20



I have been setting sharpness to 0 (i.e. MIN) ever since I got my Sampo 34WHD5 in 2001 and adjusted it using Video Essentials.


When my Sampo died last February and I replaced it with a 34XBR960, one of the things I did as part of my setup (now using Digital Video Essentials) was again to set sharpness to 0/MIN.


If you haven't turned sharpness OFF, you're not getting the best picture out of your XBR960. In my opinion, all tuning should require that sharpness be set to 0/MIN... no questions asked. Tweak other things, but set sharpness OFF.


There is nothing like looking at the multi-colored scales on a rattlesnake slithering across the Texas desert from a distance of camera two feet away... WITH ZERO SHARPNESS!! You'd think the snake was inside the XBR.


HDTV SHARPNESS=OFF


(just my two cents)


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bobhoppel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Power conditioner is the best because it outputss sine waves(60 Hz). The other unit is gopod too, but it outputs square waves(60 Hz). You could see a difference using the "conditioner" if you have a real high end audio system otherwise the cheaper one should do just fine for supporting the 960's initial appetite for current..



What do you think of the Belkin PF60?


I certainly couldn't be more pleased with it myself, across the boards.


----------



## danchilders

Hi Joseph,


Vivid kind of looked better to me at first too, but standard definition stuff looked incredibly grainy, and when I realized I was looking for naturalistic color, not just "bright" colors, I realized what everyone was talking about when they refer to Vivid (which has Brightness all the way up, I believe) as a type of "torch" mode. After doing the adustments listed above, standard looked a lot smoother.


The only problem I have with my current settings is that they only look great at night. When I am using the set in the daytime (I am in a room that is quiet open to sunlight) I can't see anything. I have to turn the brightness up, and then the picture starts to look better. Maybe I should just invest in some blinds for the windows, but I really like the openness of the room...


Dsperber, I will try moving the sharpness the rest of the way down, but truthfully my eyes are still adjusting to even the "softness" of 20. Standard Def looks less grainy, but it also looks a little blurry (which I think is an improvement, though). However, I didn't notice any blurryness at all with HD signals, so maybe moving the sharpness down would make them look better, not worse.


Dan


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Let me start by saying that what looks best to you on your TV is how it should be set up.
> 
> 
> When I got mine Vivid mode looked awful. Didn't even try to adjust it, went straight to Pro mode and tweaked from there.
> 
> 
> Now that my set has been ISF'ed I took a look at Vivid after reading your post. Other than the need to put on some sunglasses to keep from being blinded it didn't look too bad. Much better than the OTB look. The NASCAR race went from a night race to a day race in Vivid mode.
> 
> 
> Do a search in this thread for some settings in Pro mode and try them out.



Hi John,


My glasses get darker in the sunlight so perhaps this offset the blinding light you found on VIVID; yesterday's White Sox-Angel game appeard to start in sunlight and end at night LOL.


I was concerned about too much contrast in VIVID (why Sony set the picture to the top is insane) but as you saw, my picture mode is just 32 with brightness down to 19. Much lower settings than those listed by other users of this thread.


When I first checked out the PRO mode I found it too soft but will try again and will compare it to my VIVID. Since the 960 retains settings for each picture option it will be easy to compare. Will let you know my thoughts.


Take care,

Joe


----------



## algaray

Has anyone who owns the 34XBR960 had a chance to check out the new Sony Bravia series LCD, KDL-V40XBR1?


The price difference is huge but it would be easier to convince my wife to upgrade our 34" Toshiba to the 40" Bravia than it is to get another heavy 34" CRT. The price is a good reason.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *algaray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anyone who owns the 34XBR960 had a chance to check out the new Sony Bravia series LCD, KDL-V40XBR1?
> 
> 
> The price difference is huge but it would be easier to convince my wife to upgrade our 34" Toshiba to the 40" Bravia than it is to get another heavy 34" CRT. The price is a good reason.



The Bravias are Samsung products with a Sony label slapped on them. From there, it's the same LCD vs. CRT debate for the millionth time. It's up to you and your needs.


If size and weight aren't an issue to you, and PQ is priority one, the 960 wins hands down.


----------



## bobhoppel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What do you think of the Belkin PF60?
> 
> 
> I certainly couldn't be more pleased with it myself, across the boards.




As long as it is supplying the initial current demands of the 960, the specs on it look great!


----------



## algaray

UPDATED: Just talked with Sony rep for PNW region. He clarified that Samsung and Sony are sharing a huge facilty but there are walls in between the two groups. They use different teams and parts. Sony Bravias are not Samsungs.



Q,


Thanks for indicating that Bravias are made by Samsung. I was not aware of that, definitely cools my interest. I don't have confidence in Samsung's long term reliability.


What's your opinion on buying a refurbished unit from the Sony Outlet store?

My nearest Sony Outlet store has 7 XBR960s for significantly less than $1699 (wouldn't give the exact price over the phone) which is the best local price for a new one (from Video Only). The Sony Outlet also sells Sony 3 year extended coverage for $59.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *algaray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Q,
> 
> 
> Thanks for indicating that Bravias are made by Samsung. I was not aware of that, definitely cools my interest. I don't have confidence in Samsung's long term reliability.
> 
> 
> What's your opinion on buying a refurbished unit from the Sony Outlet store?
> 
> My nearest Sony Outlet store has 7 XBR960s for significantly less than $1699 (wouldn't give the exact price over the phone) which is the best local price for a new one (from Video Only). The Sony Outlet also sells Sony 3 year extended coverage for $59.



With the 3 year warrenty don't know how you could go wrong with a price lower than $1699.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> With the 3 year warrenty don't know how you could go wrong with a price lower than $1699.




Seconded.


----------



## Justin Fletcher

I was just at a Sony Outlet store where the price was $1599, with a five year warranty for ~$130. Don't know if that's what they mean by "significant," but it's still a good price. However, they don't deliver, and with a set of this size, that was a deal (back?) breaker for me.


----------



## algaray

I guess my definition of "significant" is quite different than the person answering the phone. $100 dollars is not enough to buy refurbished. But I'll have to make a trip to the outlet to see if the prices here are different.


----------



## Mikazaru




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Bravias are Samsung products with a Sony label slapped on them. From there, it's the same LCD vs. CRT debate for the millionth time. It's up to you and your needs.
> 
> 
> If size and weight aren't an issue to you, and PQ is priority one, the 960 wins hands down.



I believe Sony and Samsung have a joint venture in an lcd factory. The panels are the same, but the electronics are different.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Let me start by saying that what looks best to you on your TV is how it should be set up.
> 
> 
> When I got mine Vivid mode looked awful. Didn't even try to adjust it, went straight to Pro mode and tweaked from there.
> 
> 
> Now that my set has been ISF'ed I took a look at Vivid after reading your post. Other than the need to put on some sunglasses to keep from being blinded it didn't look too bad. Much better than the OTB look. The NASCAR race went from a night race to a day race in Vivid mode.
> 
> 
> Do a search in this thread for some settings in Pro mode and try them out.



Hi Again, John,


Used the PRO mode and made what I believed were the proper settings adjustments. Cannot argue against the great picture quality in PRO but I still found VIVID slightly more to my liking. The differences were subtle, more in softness and color enhancement than anything else. It was not as big a difference as NASCAR night and day LOL.


As you correctly pointed out, it comes down to preference. But thanks for the suggestion.


Take care,

Joe


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Again, John,
> 
> 
> As you correctly pointed out, it comes down to preference. But thanks for the suggestion.
> 
> 
> Take care,
> 
> Joe



Bottom line is you're happy with the picture and that's all that matters. Unless you invite me over, then you'll have to change to PRO for hospitality sake.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *danchilders* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Dsperber, I will try moving the sharpness the rest of the way down, but truthfully my eyes are still adjusting to even the "softness" of 20. Standard Def looks less grainy, but it also looks a little blurry (which I think is an improvement, though). However, I didn't notice any blurryness at all with HD signals, so maybe moving the sharpness down would make them look better, not worse.



The first time I did this (upon the DEMAND of "Video Essential" narrator) back in 2001, I too felt I was not going to like it. But it didn't take long to get used to it, and now I consider anything higher than ZERO to be "ruining" the perfection of zero "artificial edge enhancement" (which really is what sharpness is).


I grant you, it does take a little getting used to sharpness set to MIN since it certainly appears "softer" than 20 (or anything else, for that matter)! But look around you in the real world... do you see edge enhancement? You sill quickly realize that MIN is reality, and anything else is artificial and "noisy"... just from the visual result. I also have "clear edge VM" turned OFF, for the same reason.


Truth be told, I do have sharpness set to 19 for one of my inputs... INPUT3, which I use for input from my JVC 40K whose tuner I use strictly to record/watch local SD non-digital off-air UPN (channel 13). The picture is so mediocre on 13 that I was actually forced to go to 19 to satisfy myself even minimally. Unfortunately I cannot receive digital UPN in my area.


But on my other SD input (INPUT1) which is fed by a D* Hughes E45 that provides excellent SD picture quality, not only do I again have sharpness set to MIN but I even have DRC set to "progressive" (which I discovered definitely improved high-quality SD even further)! Looks terrific.


ALL my other inputs (5, 6, 7, iLink) have sharpness set to MIN.


Remember, tweaks should be done using test patterns and something like DVE/Avia, in viewing conditions you're likely to be using (e.g. at night, or in near darkness). Exceptional problems injected by broad daylight viewing conditions have nothing to do with how you should correctly set things up for night viewing.


And also remember that all of your tweaks will be based on where you start. Have you gone to PRO mode, turned "clear edge VM" off, set color temp (I happen to like like "cool" while others suggest "neutral"), set color axis (I left mine at "default" while others urge "monitor")? Anything you set in these basic starting points will influence what you eventually end up with in your set of tweak values. There's no question you end up compensating in tweaks for how you start with these basic settings, so don't be surprised where you end up. If you start with Sony-imputed biases active (i.e. anything presets other than OFF) you will end up compensating to get back to true HD reality.


Eventually, you'll still probably do a little real world adjusting after you're done, to satisfy your subjective conclusion on how much you like your result. For example, I think Leno (and other high-quality HD) looks better when it's just a tad darker (i.e. with brightness turned down one notch) than how I seem to end up using test patterns. I think true color (especially skin tone) looks better with just slightly less brightness than what Pluge patterns tell me is right during tweaking.


In the end, it's really up to you what you want to end up with and what you feel is "best". You're the one viewing, and you should enjoy it. But you really should give alternative fundamental settings (e.g. sharpness set to MIN) a chance to convince you.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bottom line is you're happy with the picture and that's all that matters. Unless you invite me over, then you'll have to change to PRO for hospitality sake.



Hi John,


You're welcome to come over anytime..., just don't forget to bring your sunglasses LOL.


As you saw, I use low contrast, brightness and sharpeness settings with the color not quite half way. I did want to avoid the easy mistake of over saturation. It was easier to tweak for DVD since I used a THX optimizer; too bad cable doesn't provide a test pattern on a HD channel to use as reference.


Joe


----------



## dnsw06




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bobhoppel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I currently use an APC UPS 2200, which is way overkill. I had it because I used it to supply backup to four different computers. I have been told the APC Back-UPS RS 1500VA works great and costs around $200 (vs $1200 for the 2200.) I had previously used a surge protector and then an APC 620 and they both limited the degausser. So it's plug it straight into wall or use a battery backup that has at least a 1200 VA rating so you can supply at least an instantaneous 10 amps to the degausser when you turn your 960 on. Hope this helps!!



These battery backups are made for computers aren't they? Are there any surge protectors out there that rate 1200 VA?


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> too bad cable doesn't provide a test pattern on a HD channel to use as reference.
> 
> 
> Joe



INHD has a program called Tune Up on saturday mornings at 7am EST. I just caught the end of it yesterday, but it might be what you are looking for.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LongRufus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> INHD has a program called Tune Up on saturday mornings at 7am EST. I just caught the end of it yesterday, but it might be what you are looking for.



Hi Long Rufas,


Thanks for letting me know of the program on INHD. Will tape it to see if it has user references and if so I'll get up early another Saturday morning to use it. Meantime, the tape might help in making more precise settings for VHS.


Thanks again,

Joe


----------



## bobhoppel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dnsw06* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> These battery backups are made for computers aren't they? Are there any surge protectors out there that rate 1200 VA?




Surge Protectors unfortunately try to resist current changes whether it happens on the input or output. If you did have a surge protector that allowed that kind of draw--by definition it would limit and maybe eliminate protection from outside changes. That's why a sufficient battery backup systems(UPS) can solve the situation with the 960. UPS systems won't allow changes(current or voltage) from the outside to effect its outputs. It gets its output from internal batteries and AC inverting circuits that keep the output at a constant voltage and supplies the sufficient current during the 960's startup period. The UPS systems can run from minutes to hours without power to the input depending on what size UPS system you get and what load you hang on them. In other words, they can also keep things going during short power outages. Hope this helps.


----------



## Justin Fletcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dnsw06* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> These battery backups are made for computers aren't they? Are there any surge protectors out there that rate 1200 VA?



The APC H15 that was already mentioned rates 1500 VA, and it's designed for AV equipment. It's pricey, though, even more so if you want battery backup (see the APC S15 ).


A question of the lesser of two evils:

Is it worse to plug the 960 into a wall outlet that is more than likely poorly wired and already feeding a lot of equipment and is prone to blowing the fuse when an AC is running, or to plug the 960 into a $30 APC surge protector that's plugged into the same crappy, loaded outlet? In other words, is it better to risk the surge or the insufficient current at power on?


I get my TV this week, but I can't get my S15 until the end of the month.


----------



## hywdx80

Does a good power source like the PureAv or "Acoustic Research surge protector" have big impact on PQ ?


----------



## hywdx80

Hey guys, I'm recently a new owner of the sony xbr960. I purchased this from brandsmart for $1573.82 w/ tax. I'm having a couple of problems with the tv so far. First the upper left and right corners (like most people say about the tv) has convergence issues. What is the best way to fix this issue with really no knowledge with tv's.


Also, I have the tv is having a faint white vertical line in the 4:3 mode. People have mentioned this in previous threads but have not mentioned how to fix this issue. Some one said it is a SUM Circuit, but didn't leave me any options to fix it.

Another forum here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...hreadid=491983 


Also here is what it exactly looks like:










It happens in any 4:3 mode, and the images on the tv is a little bit bright where the line appears. It is something that is bugging me and it seems the only cure I have to fix it is to make the tv a little darker.


Is there a way to fix the convergence issues / the white line issue in the service menu ? Is there a tutorial on how to fix this anywhere on the forums with out completely messing up the tv ? I would go under warenty / replace the tv with a new one, but at 200lbs and owning an rsx would be a bit to much in planning on my friends truck again.


With my terk hdtv indoor antenna which I use for HDTV I believe I'm having a problem. The problem is really hard to describe. I can kind of see each pixels bouncing if you really look carefully at a couple of pixels on the tv. You can easily see the difference in a back ground that is one color. I do notice is everytime I watch the cards @ Astros on fox. There is a green rectangle behind the homeplate on the left. It looks like each pixel is shaking around and kind of looks distorted. I'm note sure if this is my tv or the way HDTV works.


Also on cnet, I was reading this review on the TV:
_

Full user opinion

The XBR worked for two hours and then went into a perpetual sleep mode. It would not power up. After spending close to an hour talking to a Sony Tech., I was advised there was a tuner problem. One in five sets apparently had this problem. The tech's advice was "return the set to the store." If I wanted it fixed there was a two week waiting period for the part. Warning to all, if you buy this set make sure it is delivered and set up by a store tech. Get the extended warranty and run it 24/7 for the first month or return period. I am sure Sony knows this problem exists. Do not buy the set if the tv manufacture date is May 2005. I hope Sony realizes what this is doing to their quality product reputation.

Shame on Sony, buyer beware._


My tv is manufactured in May 2005. I'm kind of wondering that with the two problems I'm having that my tv may break after the 30 day period. I really hate warrenty stuff with shipping the tv back to sony and out of a tv for 6 months. Should I return this tv to brandsmart which will end 11/01/05 and pick up another one and hope the manufacture date is not May 2005 ? Should I get the newer model 34xbr960n ?


I'm trying to improve the picture detail with Standard Def over Directtv. I'm using an older direct tv receiver, RCA (DRD430RG), w/ s-video. I understand from reading some posts on this forum that the best tv settings are something like:


Mode: Pro


Brightness: 25

Color / Hue: 31-0

Color Temp: warm

Sharpness: 25

ClearEdge VM: Off

Color Axis: Monitor

Picture: 36

Brightness: 25

Color / Hue: 31-0


If anything of these should change a little bit let me know.

Also I really don't notice a big difference between:

Progressive

CineMotion

Interlaced

-

DRC: Custom 1, 2, 3 ?

I noticed Interlaced looks a little blurry and fuzzy over the espn ticker on the bottom of espn 2/ Between Progressive and CineMotion I don't notice a difference.


----------



## triumph66

Sorry to hear about the problems with your set hywdx80.


I purchased an XBR960 about two weeks ago and have experienced none of the issues that you have. My HD looks superb and there is no site of the green rectangle issue you are seeing. Have you tried not using the Direct TV box to see how the HD looks straight out of the wall? Is it worse/better?


I would strongly suggest you consider finding a way to exchange your set for a new one while you still have the opportunity. That white line has to be bothersome and you shouldn't have to darken the picture on a new set to avoid such an issue. You paid too much money to have to deal with that. For reference sake my set has a production date of September 2005. What month was your's produced?


Here is what I'm using to view HD through Video 5 Component with a Scientific Atlanta 8300HD box.


Mode: Pro


Pic: 25

Bri: 42

Col: 31

Hue: R2

Sharp: Min "0"

Color Temp: Warm

Clear Edge: Off

Adv. Video: Monitor


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hywdx80* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey guys, I'm recently a new owner of the sony xbr960. I purchased this from brandsmart for $1573.82 w/ tax. I'm having a couple of problems with the tv so far. First the upper left and right corners (like most people say about the tv) has convergence issues. What is the best way to fix this issue with really no knowledge with tv's.



Don't hesitate. Call SONY and get a factory authorized tech to come out and deal with your primary issues. It will be free to you, assuming you're still within the initial 30-day parts-and-labor warranty from the manufacturer.


Convergence problems on horizontal lines (i.e. vertical convergence) can only be addressed with the placement of a bunch of small magnets on the back of the picture tube. Convergence problems on vertical lines (i.e. horizontal convergence) can be addressed (with varying degrees of success and probable compromise over the entire screen) through the service menu.


A Sony factory tech will do his best to get your set "within factory spec". Hopefully this will be much better than you got it when it was first delivered, and should make it ready for your own personal project of tweaks in your quest for visual perfection.


So I'd recommend you do that first... get a free tune-up adjustment from Sony. Then you can see where you are and proceed further on your own.


It's unlikely the set will be deemed "unacceptable" and justify a total replacement, but if the technician can't resolve the problems don't give up without a fight. Get back to Sony and tell them what's going on. You can talk them into a "second opinion" and second service visit from a local authorized service technician (they'll give you a list of phone numbers in your area), and if you're lucky you'll get someone who's really good. The factory techs are less motivated to spend lots of time on your XBR than the local techs are, and likely won't get the same results. Ultimately, it's possible that a replacement might be needed for a total lemon, but you may have to fight for it.




> Quote:
> Also, I have the tv is having a faint white vertical line in the 4:3 mode. People have mentioned this in previous threads but have not mentioned how to fix this issue. Some one said it is a SUM Circuit, but didn't leave me any options to fix it.



Again, while this set is primarily appreciated for its 16x9 HD modes, it certainly does an acceptable job with 4x3 SD.


Don't waste your time addressing these yourself yet. A brand new set will have factory-imputed problems, and a factory tech should straighten them out as best he can before you begin tweaking in the service menu.


This is true for most or all of the other problems you report. Don't even think of addressing problems which may disappear after your tech's visit. Just make sure to demonstrate everything to him. He can decide if he can address them or if they're yours (or if you then want to fight with Sony about what remains).




> Quote:
> Mode: Pro
> 
> 
> Brightness: 25
> 
> Color / Hue: 31-0
> 
> Color Temp: warm
> 
> Sharpness: 25
> 
> ClearEdge VM: Off
> 
> Color Axis: Monitor
> 
> Picture: 36
> 
> Brightness: 25
> 
> Color / Hue: 31-0



Everybody's set is different, so there's no "right set of values" which will apply to everyone. Plus, most of us have tweaked in the service menu so that the user menu settings (above) will also vary and can't really be considered "best" or "universal". Finally, these values will vary by input, so your SD settings (INPUT1-3) will vary from your HD settings (INPUT4-7), so again there is no "best".


Again, I's recommend not really attempting any major tweaking effort until you get your primary out-of-box tuneup from a Sony tech.


I might suggest that in your HD settings you try Sharpness: MIN. If you're feeding true HD (OTA, cable, D-VHS) to the set, artificially added edge enhancement (which is all that sharpness is) is nothing but added video noise. The idea is to eliminate such stuff for perfect picture, and sharpness:MIN gives you that. On your SD inputs you might try sharpness:19, or as little as you can get away with that doesn't blur out and soften the picture too much. But on your HD inputs, sharpness:MIN is really the way to go.


(for me, I have color temp: COOL, because I prefer it. But to each his own in these "bias" settings. You're just going to end up compensating in the service menu for however you start with such a "bias" preset, so maybe it's not relevant.)


----------



## hywdx80




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *triumph66* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What month was your's produced?



May 2005. I live in atlanta, where did you purchase your tv? I would love to get my hands on a sept 2005 version.


----------



## hywdx80




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *triumph66* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry to hear about the problems with your set hywdx80.
> 
> 
> I purchased an XBR960 about two weeks ago and have experienced none of the issues that you have. My HD looks superb and there is no site of the green rectangle issue you are seeing. Have you tried not using the Direct TV box to see how the HD looks straight out of the wall? Is it worse/better?



I use a trek indoor HDTV antenna. Its connected to the back of the tv threw the UHF coax port


----------



## hywdx80

DSperber - Thanks for the help. I think my best bet is just to return the TV and hope the new one doesn't have the same problems. I just think the May 2005 manufactured date of the tv is bogus. I can have the tech come to my house and fix the problem, but if something goes wrong after the 30 days of owning it, I'm pretty much suck with a broken tv.


----------



## triumph66




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hywdx80* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> May 2005. I live in atlanta, where did you purchase your tv? I would love to get my hands on a sept 2005 version.



I'm in Houston. I purchased the set from Circuit City. There were only 4 stores in Houston that were stocking them at the time. I called around and spoke to the warehouse managers and had them look up the serial numbers and build dates for the sets they had. I just told them that I had been researching the set and was looking for the newest one they had. They were all July and August builds except for the one September that I found so I went and picked it up.


Call around to the CC's and Best Buy's nearest you and find one with a September set. I'm not positive, because I'm not familiar with Brandsmart, but I imagine either one would price match your other offer. I used to live in Atlanta a few years back. Your best bet in finding a newer set is by checking stores in areas that would be moving XBR960's out of inventory. Try Northpoint, Perimeter, and Lenox. They would more than likely have a September set.


----------



## hywdx80




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *triumph66* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm in Houston. I purchased the set from Circuit City. There were only 4 stores in Houston that were stocking them at the time. I called around and spoke to the warehouse managers and had them look up the serial numbers and build dates for the sets they had. I just told them that I had been researching the set and was looking for the newest one they had. They were all July and August builds except for the one September that I found so I went and picked it up.
> 
> 
> Call around to the CC's and Best Buy's nearest you and find one with a September set. I'm not positive, because I'm not familiar with Brandsmart, but I imagine either one would price match your other offer. I used to live in Atlanta a few years back. Your best bet in finding a newer set is by checking stores in areas that would be moving XBR960's out of inventory. Try Northpoint, Perimeter, and Lenox. They would more than likely have a September set.



Thanks for the help. How do you tell by the serial number etc on what yr/month the tv set was made with out actually opening the box and looking at the back of the tv for the date ?


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hywdx80* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey guys, I'm recently a new owner of the sony xbr960. I purchased this from brandsmart for $1573.82 w/ tax. I'm having a couple of problems with the tv so far. First the upper left and right corners (like most people say about the tv) has convergence issues. What is the best way to fix this issue with really no knowledge with tv's.



Sounds like you may have purchased a B stock or poorly refurbished one. If you can exchange it for another one do so.


----------



## dnsw06




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bobhoppel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Surge Protectors unfortunately try to resist current changes whether it happens on the input or output. If you did have a surge protector that allowed that kind of draw--by definition it would limit and maybe eliminate protection from outside changes. That's why a sufficient battery backup systems(UPS) can solve the situation with the 960. UPS systems won't allow changes(current or voltage) from the outside to effect its outputs. It gets its output from internal batteries and AC inverting circuits that keep the output at a constant voltage and supplies the sufficient current during the 960's startup period. The UPS systems can run from minutes to hours without power to the input depending on what size UPS system you get and what load you hang on them. In other words, they can also keep things going during short power outages. Hope this helps.



Thank you Bob! That does help. It's great to learn about these potential problems in advance. I'm assuming then that you could plug all your entertainment equipment (Sat Receiver, DVD Player etc...) into the UPS thus totally replacing the surge protectors. Is that correct?


----------



## Justin Fletcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Justin Fletcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I get my TV this week, but I can't get my S15 until the end of the month.



Never mind! I get it on the same day as my 960! Yay!


----------



## triumph66

Justin...what price are you getting the S15 at? PM if you would rather not post?


I'm considering both the H15 and S15 at the moment but can't decide if I need to spend the extra on the S.


----------



## Justin Fletcher

Not sure what protocol is for distributor discounts on the forums, so I'll send a PM. I will say that I got it for less than MSRP ($1500) at a reasonable though not ginormous discount.


----------



## bobhoppel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dnsw06* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thank you Bob! That does help. It's great to learn about these potential problems in advance. I'm assuming then that you could plug all your entertainment equipment (Sat Receiver, DVD Player etc...) into the UPS thus totally replacing the surge protectors. Is that correct?




Yes, that is the ideal setup, if the UPS unit you use has the capacity.


----------



## hywdx80

Sorry I have a noob question about the 960. Crutchfield has this on their website.

» all signals displayed at 1080i or 480p


Does this mean If I hook up a device such as a dvd player or watching hdtv in 720p it will either come in 1080i or 480p ?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hywdx80* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does this mean If I hook up a device such as a dvd player or watching hdtv in 720p it will either come in 1080i or 480p ?



Yes. The set accepts all native resolutions, but 720p is upconverted by the set so that it displays at 1080i. If you push the DISPLAY button on the remote it will say "720p", describing the source, but the display is actually at 1080i.


Now that the Sampo 34WHD5 (which was the only CRT to display native 720p, I believe) is history, I don't believe there are any other CRT sets which display 720p at 720p. All sets, including the 34XBR960, now upconvert 720p for display at 1080i.


However this does not take away from the wonderful image you still will be seeing.


----------



## Tder

I've just purchased a floor model from a small retailer at what seemed to be a resaonable price of $1,395. It's a June 2004 model but has claimed low hours, and came with the full two year warranty. Lion AV should be here to calibrate in Mid-November


Anyhow...I have a few questions... The first of which is spurred on by discussion of build dates over the past few days. Obviously newer is better but other than that arethere build dates that are more desirable than others.


Also I have trouble getting the TV to pick up any input from cold start. It seems that if I go to MY DVR on my Motorola HD Comcast cablebox and select a recorded program for playback this seems to jumpstart things. Sounds car like doesn't it? I've seen other posts regarding similar problems with the digital OTA and perhaps with HD Cable. Is this a known issue and is there a known fix.


Thanks in Advance,



Tom Der


----------



## hywdx80

Questions with my old rca direct tv receiver and it's bad images quality SD in 4:3 on my xbr960. If I upgrade to a newer one like the "DTV H10" and connect that to my tv instead of the old rca which only has s-video/composite/coax will i receive better SD in 4:3 on the newer direct tv receiver "DTV H10"?


I heard some people claiming that using hdmi/component in SD doesn't look that great. If I hook either s-video/composite/coax/component etc... would the SD images in 4:3 look better or it is just a flaw with SD on a widescreen HD tv ?


The reason I say this is because my OTA antenna picks up really good SD signals over the OTA HDTV in 16:9 but it looks pretty good and I'm try to get my direct tv images to look like that even though it is 100% digital.


Sorry for being a newbie again!


Rob


----------



## Rmutz

hywdx80,


I don't know if this helps, since I don't have DirectTV, but I find with my cable box(SA8300), I get a much better picture for SD using either hdmi or component, than I do with the S-video connection. I tried S-video after reading many posts that for SD you should dummy down the signal, but to my eyes it looked fuzzier than hdmi or compontent.


While, analog SD is always a bit of a struggle with must HDTVs, some of the premium digital SD cable channels can look almust DVD like. Again, this is just my experience. Others might have a different opinion.


----------



## dnsw06




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bobhoppel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, that is the ideal setup, if the UPS unit you use has the capacity.



Bob,


Would the before mentioned APC Back-up RS 1500 VA work for this role? It has 4 to 6 battery back-up sockets and 2 serge protection only sockets. I imagine the TV would need to go into one of the battery back-up sockets.


Thanks again for your and everyone else's comments. They have been a BIG help!


David


----------



## bobhoppel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dnsw06* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bob,
> 
> 
> Would the before mentioned APC Back-up RS 1500 VA work for this role? It has 4 to 6 battery back-up sockets and 2 serge protection only sockets. I imagine the TV would need to go into one of the battery back-up sockets.
> 
> 
> Thanks again for your and everyone else's comments. They have been a BIG help!
> 
> 
> David



Yes, it should work fine!


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rmutz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> hywdx80,
> 
> 
> I don't know if this helps, since I don't have DirectTV, but I find with my cable box(SA8300), I get a much better picture for SD using either hdmi or component, than I do with the S-video connection. I tried S-video after reading many posts that for SD you should dummy down the signal, but to my eyes it looked fuzzier than hdmi or compontent.
> 
> 
> While, analog SD is always a bit of a struggle with must HDTVs, some of the premium digital SD cable channels can look almust DVD like. Again, this is just my experience. Others might have a different opinion.



I also find non-HD signals look better through HDMI but since "wide-zoom" is not an option I often use the lesser standard cable input to fill the screen. The zoom on HDMI is perfect for letterbox movies on non-HD transmissions.


----------



## high def mon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hywdx80* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Questions with my old rca direct tv receiver and it's bad images quality SD in 4:3 on my xbr960. If I upgrade to a newer one like the "DTV H10" and connect that to my tv instead of the old rca which only has s-video/composite/coax will i receive better SD in 4:3 on the newer direct tv receiver "DTV H10"?
> 
> 
> I heard some people claiming that using hdmi/component in SD doesn't look that great. If I hook either s-video/composite/coax/component etc... would the SD images in 4:3 look better or it is just a flaw with SD on a widescreen HD tv ?
> 
> 
> The reason I say this is because my OTA antenna picks up really good SD signals over the OTA HDTV in 16:9 but it looks pretty good and I'm try to get my direct tv images to look like that even though it is 100% digital.
> 
> 
> Sorry for being a newbie again!
> 
> 
> Rob



I know that some sat. HD receivers upconvert the SD signal. however the only way you can get this up converted signal is by using the component out. this sat. upconversion, seams to conflict with the Sony's and gives you a somewhat fuzzy picture. I have both receivers, HD (using component only) and a SD DVR (using s-video only), I prefer using the s-cable and let the Sony do all the work.


----------



## Xing

I love this tv


----------



## GLX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Xing* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I love this tv


----------



## Dovetails




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tder* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Anyhow...I have a few questions... The first of which is spurred on by discussion of build dates over the past few days. Obviously newer is better but other than that arethere build dates that are more desirable than others.



What is the issue with build dates now??







I must of missed the earlier threads? I'm just about 2 weeks away from buying the 960.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dovetails* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What is the issue with build dates now??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I must of missed the earlier threads? I'm just about 2 weeks away from buying the 960.



No issue that I'm aware of. I purchased mine in March/April, don't recall the build date but have no problems.


----------



## liquidneba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dovetails* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What is the issue with build dates now??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I must of missed the earlier threads? I'm just about 2 weeks away from buying the 960.



There aren't bad issues with any particular build dates... but people question the build quality because of issues specially of the first initial batches of TVs made in the July - September 2004 time period. My TV is being swapped by SONY sometime next week, because of a defect... It's build date is Sept. 2004. I look at it like buying a new car. If it's a redesigned brand new model, there might be a few issues, as time goes on, those issues are addressed, through perfecting the manufacturing process.


----------



## hywdx80

May 2005 is the only month that has a build date problem


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Concerned after an earlier discussion about my using the vivid mode I reviewed the postings on this thread and found almost everyone using pro. So I did some further experimentation and admit pro is the best of the four mode options.


I earlier found a duller picture in pro compared to vivid, however, I was using the default (set by Sony) for color axis and warm (NTSC standard) for temperature. I now see using monitor and neutral brings out the best overall picture quality under pro, with more brillant whites, natural colors and sharper picture. The less visual enhancements, the better.


We did have a beautiful picture in vivid (but used lower settings than most). But it is even more gorgeous with these new settings.



Thanks for everyone for their suggestions.


----------



## Dovetails

Anyway to tell what the build date is without opening the box?? Does the serial number on outside of carton give you a clue?


----------



## getthenoob

im gonna be getting a 34"XBR from Circuit City, the price on sale is $1804 but they also have a out of box one of it for only $1399, would it be safe to get the out of box one b/c its $400 cheaper or should i get the $1804 one?


----------



## Ladd

I guess it just boils down to "is the $400 savings worth whatever reason the TV has been returned"?


----------



## GPC2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *petej88* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm currently using Comcast Cable and have never seen flicker. I've seen pixelation, etc from bad input occasionally. I'm wondering if your sales person was mixing up HI def with 480i input when he was talking about flicker? That's what I think.




I have recently purchased the KD 34XBR960 and have it hooked up to a Comcast digital cable box. Well.....I have the flicker problem that everybody had been discussing. I also had a DirecTV HD receiver hooked up to it and there was no flicker while watching HD. Also, the situation seems to be a bit more pronounced on the HD local channels through Comcast. Unfortunately I am not home often enough to do other tests to diagnose the true nature of the problem. I only watch sports, so from what I see this situation is occuring on ESPN-HD and CBS-HD during football games. If anyone has any suggestions I would welcome them. Thank you very much.


----------



## gutwrencher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So I did some further experimentation and admit pro is the best of the four mode options.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for everyone for their suggestions.




Don't mean to butt in, but although I have a different Sony model, I must pass along the same thanks. I feel like a nimrod.










I too finally played with my Pro settings and brought out a stunning result. I've only had my new Sony for a week and I felt like I discovered a new display _within_ a display!


----------



## Tder

I agonized with similar thoughts and ended up going with a floor model same price as yours from a local retailer (though purchased through e-bay). I'm happy with the purchase and the TV has performed fine and looks great both cosmetically and performance wise. It's a close call... particularly as I've heard some counts of people who put a little negotiating work getting a new model at Circuit City for $1,600ish. I believe these have been on sale in the New England area at both Best Buy and Circuit City for $1,709.00. My gut says these TVs are not very fast movers as more buyers turn towards plasma, rear projection, or LCD.


In closing...what a TV!


Tom Der

North Hampton, NH




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *getthenoob* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> im gonna be getting a 34"XBR from Circuit City, the price on sale is $1804 but they also have a out of box one of it for only $1399, would it be safe to get the out of box one b/c its $400 cheaper or should i get the $1804 one?


----------



## Dovetails




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hywdx80* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> May 2005 is the only month that has a build date problem



I appoligize if this has already been discussed and I simply missed it ....... but, WHAT build problems? I hope this isn't a matter of one person having a problem and starting an urban legend. Are there several folks out there that can substantiate this May 05 issue?? And if so... how can you tell the build date on the outside of a carton without opening the box.


----------



## njt

I have seen nothing, in this thread or otherwise, to indicate that there is a build date issue. If I am mistaken, please correct me, but I am not aware of any Sony communication which has found institutional issues with any build date. Again, if I am mistaken, link us.


----------



## gigaguy

Some of the early models reportedly had tuner issues, I think it would lose channel settings. That was early on, this tv hads been produced for what, over 2 years now.


----------



## dlhunt0410

I'm in the 34XBR960 club!


I picked this TV up at BB last Wednesday on my 42nd birthday.


It was a happy birthday indeed!


Getting it into the house by myself was a challenge though.


----------



## kidAtoZed

Has anyone else experienced some serious convergence issues with this model? I've got lots of curving at the corners, and up the middle of the screen. From what I understand my TV's technically in spec, but watching anything 4:3 or DVDs that still have a letter box (even when the TV's set to 16:9) -- the curves are very noticeable and distracting. I'm guessing this is an anomaly, but would love any other owner feedback.


Thanks!


----------



## ttenrag

Well, I have had my XBR960 for two weeks now and i thought I would chime in and add some thoughts to those of you who might be facing a similar situation.


I did months of research and decided I would go with quality over size, but after having the TV for two weeks I am returning it because it is just not a big enough screen. I am at a distance of 10 feet (give or take), and while the picture is beautiful it is just not enough to make much difference than my 27inch toshiba tube (4:3)


i purchased the set due in part to the great level of dark colors obtained, but to be honest I think this is only an advantage when viewing movies with the lights off. That presents a problem. I love watching movies with the lights off, but 34inches is not enough to enjoy the movie. Ok, so that leaves me with a great TV for sports and HD. Well, not exactly. When watching sports the picture color is nice, but it is not bright enough; therefore, I found myself switching to Vivid mode for sports. I also found some HD programing to be a little too dark as well. Keep in mind I am in a room with controlled lighting.


i know all of this is subjective, and I am not trying to downgrade this TV by any means (it is a great TV!!!). I am only stating my observations in the hopes of helping someone in the future. With the lights off and a movie on (HBO-HD), the picture is absolutely breathtaking. But for me it is just not enough picture.


So, for all of us who want this quality of a picture but are looking for something in the 42 inch range (like myself).....I have decided to go Plasma (Panasonic). The black levels on the Panasonic plasmas are very close to the level of Tube CRT. This is not me stating this, these are words from many experts. Also the price has dropped dramatically making them actually affordable.


If this TV was less expensive I think it would be a better deal, but a 42inch Panasonic plasma are within $1000 of this TV, and will probably close the gap even more by Christmas.


Well, I am sure I will get a lot of negative response from this, but I just wanted to air my thoughts. I am very picky about quality, as all of you are to, but what is the point of having this quality when you are too far from the TV to appreciate it.


----------



## algaray

Nothing wrong with choosing the Panny plasma over the XBR960. The gamble is will the Panny retain its performance 2-3-5 years from now. The XBR960's picture quality should not degrade at all. And the parts costs for CRT are a fraction of LCD and Plasmas.


Ironically, you did a 180 and chose size over quality.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kidAtoZed* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anyone else experienced some serious convergence issues with this model? I've got lots of curving at the corners, and up the middle of the screen. From what I understand my TV's technically in spec, but watching anything 4:3 or DVDs that still have a letter box (even when the TV's set to 16:9) -- the curves are very noticeable and distracting. I'm guessing this is an anomaly, but would love any other owner feedback.



Assuming you're still within warranty, all out-of-the-box significant problems are best addressed by a Sony-sent factory technician to perform initial re-adjustments. This is a free service call and should be taken advantage of, as many convergence and curvature issues can only be addressed by placing small magnets on the back of the picture tube rather than by trying to cure things solely through tweaks in the service menu. The technician will likely do both... magnets as necessary, as well as service menu tweaks. This should get most, if not all, of your problems resolved, or at least much improved. You can then proceed on your own service menu tweaking and tuning project, trying to improve things even further.


I'd suggest strongly that you take advantage of this free factory service visit.


Now if the technician sent by Sony doesn't provide results you can live with, call Sony back and ask for a "second opinion". Insist they give you a list of local authorized service technicians in your area, and call one of them to come out. Make sure Sony has authorized this second visit so that it too is free to you. Typically, this type of "retail" technician will be willing to spend more time on your set and will not simply be satisfied to get it "within factory spec" or "as good as can be expected".


Hopefully, at the end of this Sony-provided service you will have a much improved picture. Then you can pursue your own tweaking through service menu items, and hopefully realize the true wonder of a properly set up XBR960.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ttenrag* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I did months of research and decided I would go with quality over size, but after having the TV for two weeks I am returning it because it is just not a big enough screen. I am at a distance of 10 feet (give or take), and while the picture is beautiful it is just not enough to make much difference than my 27inch toshiba tube (4:3)



Well of course it's not a fair comparison to discuss a 4:3 SD set with a 16x9 HD set, no matter what the size.


But there's no question sitting back 10 feet from a 34" 16x9 does not give a satisfying experience. In my case, I sit about 5-6 feet away from my tweaked-and-adjusted XBR960 in my bedroom (actually, I'm sitting on the carpet, looking slightly up at the XBR960 which is sitting on a low-boy credenza-height television table) and it's like looking through a window. When I "sit down" to watch something serious, the lights are low or out. Consequently my tweaks are based on Pro mode (not Vivid or anything else) and the viewing environment is consistent for my settings. And it's pure pleasure.


I've watched HDTV on a friend's Sharp 45" Aquos sitting far back, and while I appreciate that a larger screen is what it takes for certain viewing environments, I appreciate the "intimacy" and visual perfection of sitting 5 feet from a tweaked XBR960 CRT set, with Dolby Headphones to hear DD5.1 audio at the same time. And this viewing setup doesn't bother me, although it clearly might be unacceptable to others.


To each his own. Whatever is right for you and your particular needs.


----------



## yestfto73

I just visited Sony's website (sonystyle.com) today just to see what's new if anything. I noticed that the TV that I got months ago, and still love, the

KD-34xbr960, has received a new letter to its name. It's now called the

KD-34xbr960N. Does anyone know what this is all about? Why was the "N" added to the model number and what does it stand for?


CW


----------



## liquidneba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yestfto73* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just visited Sony's website (sonystyle.com) today just to see what's new if anything. I noticed that the TV that I got months ago, and still love, the
> 
> KD-34xbr960, has received a new letter to its name. It's now called the
> 
> KD-34xbr960N. Does anyone know what this is all about? Why was the "N" added to the model number and what does it stand for?
> 
> 
> CW



Beats the heck out me. I've been searching around too! Some people have read it may be due to a different anti-glare coating (or none at all) on the TV. Maybe for Joe Consumer, it will sound a like new model, since there's no replacement for this TV this year... or probably ever. It's a great TV since it's related to the XBR960. But, I highly doubt if there is any value added to getting this one to replace a 960 -n.


----------



## yestfto73

I spoke to Sony about the "N," and they said that the "N" was added to the model # when they removed the anti-glare filter from the kd-34xbr960. Instead of the filter, they added an anti-glare coating on the glass. The reason this was done, they said, was because they've had problems with dust getting into the space between the glass and the anti-glare filter. This makes for an unfortunate situation because dust in that space cannot be cleaned from the glass or the filter because the space cannot be accessed for cleaning. Thus, the dust would become a permanent feature on your TV screen. Now, I've had my kd-34xbr960 for a year now and, after careful examination of my screen, I don't seem to have that problem, at least yet (I don't yet know how my Circuit City extended warranty would cover it should I ever happen to get that problem [would they or should they replace it with an "N" model?]). Does anyone have that problem with their 960? Also, is Sony's solution to remove the anti-glare filter and replace it with an anti-glare coating on the glass a good one? Is there a difference in quality? It seems to me that an actual filter is higher quality than a coating on the glass.


CW


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In my case, I sit about 5-6 feet away from my tweaked-and-adjusted XBR960 in my bedroom.



5 feet? Man that's close. When you close your eyes can you still see the picture on the inside of your eyelids?


----------



## GLX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 5 feet? Man that's close. When you close your eyes can you still see the picture on the inside of your eyelids?



Do you forget that the XBR960 is only 34" widescreen?


----------



## dnsw06

Ok, I've joined the club! I just got my XBR960 and thru reading this thread I've taken the group opinion and put the TV in pro mode with the monitor setting. Other than renting a Avia disk does anyone have opinions on next steps for configuring this baby?


I do have one other question. My DVD player is a panny S97 and I'm trying decide if it is best to use the HDMI cable or component? So far my only concern is with the possible Macroblocking with the HDMI cable. Does anyone else have this setup? I would like to know before I spend more money on a cable.


Thanks,


David


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dnsw06* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok, I've joined the club! I just got my XBR960 and thru reading this thread I've taken the group opinion and put the TV in pro mode with the monitor setting. Other than renting a Avia disk does anyone have opinions on next steps for configuring this baby?



In addition to starting off in Pro and Monitor, set SHARPNESS to "MIN" for inputs 4-7 and turn "Clear Edge VM" to OFF. This should be your starting point for tuning and tweaking.


If you've never watched HDTV without any edge enhancements (i.e. SHARPNESS = MIN) you should try it. It may look "soft" at first, but you'll quickly get used to it as "reality" and anything else will look obviously artificial.


If you have obvious convergence problems and curved/bowed lines reflecting geometry problems, or the picture just doesn't look really right coming out of the box (especially when you look at the setup patterns from Digital Video Essentials or Avia), don't hesitate to call Sony for a factory techician visit. It will be free to you in the early warranty period and getting factory-built problems eliminated by a service tech (e.g. with magnets) before you go batty trying unsuccessfully to eliminate them through the service menu) is the right way to get started.


Everybody's set is different, so it's inappropriate to prescribe specific service menu values. But you should probably look through the lengthy "Sony service codes" thread: Sony service menu techniques for advice and recommendations. Don't forget to download the extremely helpful PDF and XLS file attachments available in that thread (perhaps in zip form) which enumerate and describe each and every service menu item. These charts are absolutely invaluable.


Finally, after I thought I had done a pretty good job of tweaking my own XBR960, I decided to try one more suggested set of adjustments to address "red push" (a slight but noticeable reddish tint to things like skin tone) that seems to be a factory-installed bias in everybody's set. There are four settings in the 2170P-4 group on the service menu... RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB. They have default values of 8, 9, 9 and 6, respectively. I changed these to the chart-recommended values of 13, 15, 5, and 4, respectively, and I must say the difference was miraculous. Skin tone now became truly "human-like" and no longer "reddish". I recommend that you not overlook these four items as you progress through your inevitable tuning and tweaking efforts, although you may find your ultimate values to be slightly different.


Good luck, and welcome to the club.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dnsw06* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I do have one other question. My DVD player is a panny S97 and I'm trying decide if it is best to use the HDMI cable or component?



I've tried component (from D-VHS, DVD, 6412 DVR), DVI-to-HDMI (from 6412 DVR and PC video card) and HDMI-to-HDMI (from D-VHS), and even 1394 firewire (from D-VHS and 6412 DVR). Honestly, I can't tell the difference using this CRT when comparing the same 480p, 720p or 1080 source content through multiple connection choices. Of course this assumes you've tuned and tweaked EACH of your HD inputs properly and equally, so that you've not biasing the comparison because of the particular input being used and some slight pre-existing differences in brightness, sharpness, color, contrast, etc.


It may be more obvious using fixed-pixel display devices, but for me there appears to be no difference when viewing a particular source content through any of the HD connection options when using the XBR960.


Now if your DVD player can upconvert from 480p to 720p or 1080i, and it only will do that through HDMI, then I'd say use HDMI rather than component from your DVD player to gain that advantage (remembering that the original DVD source is still only at 480p). Upconverted DVD looks very good, so you might as well take advantage of that option if you have it.


But otherwise, all other 720p/1080i HD sources look the same (to me) when viewed as delivered through component, HDMI, or firewire. Obviously the latter two methods reflect data digitally delivered to the set while the first method relies on the quality of the external device doing the D/A conversion for picture quality, but unless there's something wrong with the MPEG decoder in your external device I honestly don't think you'll see much observable difference for any given constant source content as a function of delivery method to the XBR960.


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dnsw06* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I do have one other question. My DVD player is a panny S97 and I'm trying decide if it is best to use the HDMI cable or component? So far my only concern is with the possible Macroblocking with the HDMI cable. Does anyone else have this setup? I would like to know before I spend more money on a cable.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> David



I have my 6412 connected via component and use HDMI for my Sony 70H DVD player. I am happy with the PQ on both. I went with the $18 3 ft. HDMI cable from monoprice.com and haven't had any problems.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ttenrag* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I am sure I will get a lot of negative response from this, but I just wanted to air my thoughts. I am very picky about quality, as all of you are to, but what is the point of having this quality when you are too far from the TV to appreciate it.



Sorry the size of the screen was not to your liking, and best of luck with your new 42" Panny Plasma set. Please be very careful because Plasma is subject to burn-in from stationary sources such as black columns while watching 4x3, stock market tickers, station logos, etc.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ttenrag* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I am sure I will get a lot of negative response from this, but I just wanted to air my thoughts. I am very picky about quality, as all of you are to, but what is the point of having this quality when you are too far from the TV to appreciate it.



Only if you can't adjust or negotiate viewing distance. At 10 feet, yeah, you needed a bigger screen.


----------



## ttenrag

Thanks for the heads up about Plasma burn in. I know that this is an issue, and some of the HD channels do have the side bars on constantly. CRT's however are not "burn in free", the risk is just not as high as with plasma. I honestly have not decided on which type of technology to get, but I do know that 42inch is my size.....the difference between 42inch and 34 inch at 10 feet is HUGE!


Any suggestions in this size range would be greatly appreciated. Every set has its own problems:


Plasma - Burn in, and reliability questions

Rear LCD - Screen Door, Bulb Replacement, Poor Blacks

DLP - Rainbow?

Flat LCD - Poor color contrast, expensive at 42inch


HELP....I want a beatiful picture, reliability, and 42inches for under $3,000










Maybe I should just keep the 34XBR and in 5 years get a 50inch SED


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ttenrag* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Maybe I should just keep the 34XBR and in 5 years get a 50inch SED



That would not be a bad solution.


Is it possible to move your 960 a foot further off the wall to get a bigger picture? Don't also forget the 960 is 26 inches deep so if you hung a 42" inch Plasma on the wall it would be two feet further away than what you have now.


CRT technology is advancing fast but contrast limitation is still an issue. From what I read, the Sharp Aquos has the best contrast ratio compared to Plasma (not CRT) however the largest screen size available is 37". CRT is still rated as top quality.


----------



## triumph66




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yestfto73* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I spoke to Sony about the "N," and they said that the "N" was added to the model # when they removed the anti-glare filter from the kd-34xbr960. Instead of the filter, they added an anti-glare coating on the glass. The reason this was done, they said, was because they've had problems with dust getting into the space between the glass and the anti-glare filter. This makes for an unfortunate situation because dust in that space cannot be cleaned from the glass or the filter because the space cannot be accessed for cleaning. Thus, the dust would become a permanent feature on your TV screen. Now, I've had my kd-34xbr960 for a year now and, after careful examination of my screen, I don't seem to have that problem, at least yet (I don't yet know how my Circuit City extended warranty would cover it should I ever happen to get that problem [would they or should they replace it with an "N" model?]). Does anyone have that problem with their 960? Also, is Sony's solution to remove the anti-glare filter and replace it with an anti-glare coating on the glass a good one? Is there a difference in quality? It seems to me that an actual filter is higher quality than a coating on the glass.
> 
> 
> CW



If this is true then I need to make plans to return my set and exchange it for the N version. I purchased mine on the 5th of this month so I'm still within the 30 days.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> From what I read, the Sharp Aquos has the best contrast ratio compared to Plasma (not CRT) however the largest screen size available is 37".



Sharp Aquos has had a 45" LCD in their product line for quite a while.


They recently added a 65" set to the family.


With 45" and larger, they have 1920x1080 resolution, and support 1080p.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sharp Aquos has had a 45" LCD in their product line for quite a while.
> 
> 
> They recently added a 65" set to the family.
> 
> 
> With 45" and larger, they have 1920x1080 resolution, and support 1080p.



It's also quite expensive compared to the 960. If cost is not a factor, Sharp Aquos does seem to offer the best in LCD.


BTW, while burn-in cannot be dismissed as an issue with CRT, the chances of any problem occuring are very, very low. Most often it has to do with too high settings in contrast and brightness or keeping a video game on screen for hours on end (I one time left it on for 90 minutes and nothing happened).


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ttenrag* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I should just keep the 34XBR and in 5 years get a 50inch SED



This is pretty much my mindset on the matter. IF your viewing distance is negotiable, and you can get it down to at least 8 feet, the XBR960 is still the clear winner here for you and what you want.


----------



## squonk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ttenrag* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I have had my XBR960 for two weeks now and i thought I would chime in and add some thoughts to those of you who might be facing a similar situation.
> 
> 
> I did months of research and decided I would go with quality over size, but after having the TV for two weeks I am returning it because it is just not a big enough screen. I am at a distance of 10 feet (give or take), and while the picture is beautiful it is just not enough to make much difference than my 27inch toshiba tube (4:3)
> 
> 
> i purchased the set due in part to the great level of dark colors obtained, but to be honest I think this is only an advantage when viewing movies with the lights off. That presents a problem. I love watching movies with the lights off, but 34inches is not enough to enjoy the movie. Ok, so that leaves me with a great TV for sports and HD. Well, not exactly. When watching sports the picture color is nice, but it is not bright enough; therefore, I found myself switching to Vivid mode for sports. I also found some HD programing to be a little too dark as well. Keep in mind I am in a room with controlled lighting.
> 
> 
> i know all of this is subjective, and I am not trying to downgrade this TV by any means (it is a great TV!!!). I am only stating my observations in the hopes of helping someone in the future. With the lights off and a movie on (HBO-HD), the picture is absolutely breathtaking. But for me it is just not enough picture.
> 
> 
> So, for all of us who want this quality of a picture but are looking for something in the 42 inch range (like myself).....I have decided to go Plasma (Panasonic). The black levels on the Panasonic plasmas are very close to the level of Tube CRT. This is not me stating this, these are words from many experts. Also the price has dropped dramatically making them actually affordable.
> 
> 
> If this TV was less expensive I think it would be a better deal, but a 42inch Panasonic plasma are within $1000 of this TV, and will probably close the gap even more by Christmas.
> 
> 
> Well, I am sure I will get a lot of negative response from this, but I just wanted to air my thoughts. I am very picky about quality, as all of you are to, but what is the point of having this quality when you are too far from the TV to appreciate it.



ttenrag, I am going through the same decision process you did. I love the picture on this TV, and am very partial to CRT. I am about to make the big step up to HDTV but there is so much to absorb. I have a nice 36" Sony Wega SD right now, and my viewing distance is optimally 10-12 feet. I want a TV that other people can view comfortably for a ball game, movie etc, so sitting within 5-7 feet and acting like its a big screen is not a practical option. I am afraid that if I get the 34" widescreen XBR, it will look small even compared to my 4:3 36 ", and I will be disappointed. I want that color, and those deep blacks, but I don't want to strain to see a picture. I have looked at those 42" Panasonic plasmas as well and they do look very nice. Obviously more expensive, but it sure looks more like a theater experience.


Anyone, guide me in this decision. Anyone out there have experience with both the Sony XBR and a plasma? How do SD sources look on each? What will SDef sources look best on as a rule, plasma,CRT or DLP? If I am sitting more than 8 feet away, will I be disappointed in the Sony?


----------



## kidAtoZed

Thanks DSperber. I had already had techs come out and tell me "that's as good as it gets"... but I've got another appointment set up this week. Hopefully round 2 will go better =)


----------



## dnsw06




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Justin Fletcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The APC H15 that was already mentioned rates 1500 VA, and it's designed for AV equipment. It's pricey, though, even more so if you want battery backup (see the APC S15 ).



Justin or Bob,


I'm re-reading all the posts on this topic and I'm confused again.







Is a battery required to get a VA rating? For example if I do a search on apc.com by VA rating I get the items that have batteries in them like the Back-UPS RS 1500VA and the APC S15. However the APC H15 is not returned in that search. Again I'm grateful for your help! I'm just trying to make an educated decision on how best to protect my TV.


Thanks,


David


----------



## squonk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *squonk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ttenrag, I am going through the same decision process you did. I love the picture on this TV, and am very partial to CRT. I am about to make the big step up to HDTV but there is so much to absorb. I have a nice 36" Sony Wega SD right now, and my viewing distance is optimally 10-12 feet. I want a TV that other people can view comfortably for a ball game, movie etc, so sitting within 5-7 feet and acting like its a big screen is not a practical option. I am afraid that if I get the 34" widescreen XBR, it will look small even compared to my 4:3 36 ", and I will be disappointed. I want that color, and those deep blacks, but I don't want to strain to see a picture. I have looked at those 42" Panasonic plasmas as well and they do look very nice. Obviously more expensive, but it sure looks more like a theater experience.
> 
> 
> Anyone, guide me in this decision. Anyone out there have experience with both the Sony XBR and a plasma? How do SD sources look on each? What will SDef sources look best on as a rule, plasma,CRT or DLP? If I am sitting more than 8 feet away, will I be disappointed in the Sony?



anyone out there?


BTW ttenrag, didn't you just post in the Plasma forum how great the Sony XBR is over the Panny plasma and how you won't trade size for quality? I'm confused.


----------



## HonestAbe52

Hey kids,


Does anyone here have the default Vivid mode settings for the XBR960, the amounts for Picture, Brightness, Color, etc


TIA


HonestAbe


----------



## ttenrag




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *squonk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> anyone out there?
> 
> 
> BTW ttenrag, didn't you just post in the Plasma forum how great the Sony XBR is over the Panny plasma and how you won't trade size for quality? I'm confused.




Yes, I did make that quote, but that was when I first recieved my XBR960. As stated above I have had a change of opinion. Oops, are we not supposed to change our minds. After having the 34 for a few weeks I decided it is not big enough. SO SUE ME.


I want to reply now to Squonk:


Being that you have not made your purchase yet, I can offer you my own 2 cents.

WAIT.


I think you would be somewhat disappointed going from a 36inch 4:3 to a 34" 16:9 unless all you plan to do is watch HD and DVD. I do believe plasma is the best choice in the 42inch range right now. I would look into the Phillips 42inch also. I think it is around $2300 with dual HDMI.


Personally, I think I would just hold on to your Wega for another year or two if you can, and then upgrade. I have actually decided to purchase a 32inch Sony Wega (standard) for about $500.....and then in a few years I will move this to the kids playroom and buy SED 50inch.


----------



## dnsw06




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In addition to starting off in Pro and Monitor, set SHARPNESS to "MIN" for inputs 4-7 and turn "Clear Edge VM" to OFF. This should be your starting point for tuning and tweaking.
> 
> 
> Finally, after I thought I had done a pretty good job of tweaking my own XBR960, I decided to try one more suggested set of adjustments to address "red push" (a slight but noticeable reddish tint to things like skin tone) that seems to be a factory-installed bias in everybody's set. There are four settings in the 2170P-4 group on the service menu... RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB. They have default values of 8, 9, 9 and 6, respectively. I changed these to the chart-recommended values of 13, 15, 5, and 4, respectively, and I must say the difference was miraculous. Skin tone now became truly "human-like" and no longer "reddish". I recommend that you not overlook these four items as you progress through your inevitable tuning and tweaking efforts, although you may find your ultimate values to be slightly different.



Thanks for your reply DSperber!!! I was able to dive into the service menu and change the RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB settings. I should also give thanks to KenTech and others for their service menu instructions!! Since I don't have a calibration disk yet this is the only change I made in the service menu. However I could tell the difference the RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB tweaks made.


David


----------



## Fellfromgrace

whats the deal with these calibration disks I keep hearing about? If I purchase one what do you do? Throw it in a DVD player and it callibrates the TV to its optimal settings for you?


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fellfromgrace* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> whats the deal with these calibration disks I keep hearing about? If I purchase one what do you do? Throw it in a DVD player and it callibrates the TV to its optimal settings for you?



Not exactly.


It guides you on how to calibrate your TV with step by step instructions and various test patterns.


----------



## Fellfromgrace

Sweet ! Thanks for the help, sorry this was alittle off topic guys..


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fellfromgrace* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> whats the deal with these calibration disks I keep hearing about? If I purchase one what do you do? Throw it in a DVD player and it callibrates the TV to its optimal settings for you?



In addition to an audio narration giving you directions and advice, what these DVD's provide (Digital Video Essentials and Avia) are a set of vital test patterns that enable you to tweak the relevant settings on your set.


These test patterns are obviously stationary, giving you all the time in the world to adjust things. And you can always come back to them again later, to be sure you haven't broken something previously done by a later adjustment to something else.


Remember that DVD's put out 480p, so that your set adjustments will be for that resolution... or at the very least for the particular input used to deliver the DVD's output to the set. If your set has adjustment memories by resolution and/or input, or perhaps applies some settings globally and others locally by resolution and/or input, your task gets more complicated. So just keep that all in mind when you're doing adjustments... test DVD or visually using some other source.


If your DVD player has DVI/HDMI output options, and can upconvert to 720p or 1080i, that adds more flexibility but also more complexity if your set has memories by resolution and/or input.


Another option for test pattern usage comes from your ability to connect your PC to your HDTV, if possible. If you have a DVI head on your video card, or have a DVI-to-component adapter option (e.g. with ATI Radeon 9800 Pro), you can buy a software product named DisplayMate for Windows Video Edition and put out test even more sophisticated patterns to your HDTV from your PC. And using video driver adjustments, you can send out at 480p or 720p or 1080i, thus allowing you to perform consistent adjustments for constant test patterns on your HDTV's various separate inputs or separate resolutions.


Anyway, that's what these test DVD's or PC-generated test patterns are for.


----------



## Justin Fletcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dnsw06* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> if I do a search on apc.com by VA rating I get the items that have batteries in them like the Back-UPS RS 1500VA and the APC S15. However the APC H15 is not returned in that search.



I'm not the most knowledgeable person about these things, but the link I had in my last post goes to the H15 product page where it clearly says that the H15 is 1500VA (1.5 kVA). You'll find more specific info on the line if you go to the APC AV Products site rather than their general home page.


----------



## dnsw06




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Justin Fletcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm not the most knowledgeable person about these things, but the link I had in my last post goes to the H15 product page where it clearly says that the H15 is 1500VA (1.5 kVA). You'll find more specific info on the line if you go to the APC AV Products site rather than their general home page.



Thanks Justin! I saw that but I noticed a difference in the output rating data for units with a battery and those without. Those with a battery had the VA rating in the output data. Those without did not. This is what threw me but I've been reading a lot APC material and found out that indeed you are correct. Thanks again for your feedback!!!


David


----------



## Rmutz

Anyone know why there are 3 useless ilinks on the 960? I can understand having 1, such as for a DVHS (that few of us own) or DV camcorder hookup, but why 3 of these? Since I'm not aware of any DVD players/recorders that output video by firewire, what else can one do with 3 ilinks? Anyone actually using all 3 of these? If so, what are you using them for?Wouldn't the 960 be better if it had 2 HDMIs and only 1 or 2 ilinks instead?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rmutz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone know why there are 3 useless ilinks on the 960?



Well, I have my 6412 DVR connected via firewire to my XBR960 (in the rear). I also have my JVC 40K connected to my JVC DT100U via firewire which is then connected to my XBR960 via firewire (in the rear).


This allows any of my three firewire-enabled source devices to be displayed on my TV (using iLink). It also allows HD digital content from my 6412 to be recorded onto either of my D-VHS VCR's. It also allows either D-VHS VCR to act as a source device for an HD digital copy onto the other D-VHS VCR (assuming the content is not copy-protected).


Although I don't have a digital camcorder, in theory that leaves the front firewire port for playback or recording/copying from a firewire-equipped digital camcorder to either of the D-VHS VCR's or playback on the XBR960.


Granted, since firewire devices are logically addressable by name, and the protocol calls for digital data to be "relayed" through intermediate devices which are not specified as the source or destination in a handshake, in theory I could have one single linear firewire chain stringing all of these together, so that in theory only one firewire port on the XBR960 would be needed... assuming you wanted to make the XBR960 the "one end of the chain".


But virtually all well-designed firewire devices have two firewire ports, thus allowing them to be either an end (to one leg/branch, or the whole chain) or an intermediate device (capable of relaying data through it)... for maximum flexibility to the user in designing the firewire network wiring configuration (which can have one or more branches but cannot have a loop).


Having a third firewire port on the front of the XBR960 is obviously a bonus, enabling a digital camcorder to conveniently connect into the network and have its data relayed on to either of the D-VHS VCR's if that's what you want to do, or have its data displayed on the XBR960.


I think this is terrifically foresighted of Sony. A properly designed firewire device (i.e. the XBR960) with at least the two firewire ports (on the rear) that should be the minimum and keeps wires in the back, and even providing a bonus port on the front for dynamic plugin of digital camcorders.


I commend them.


As to whether two HDMI inputs might have been better than one, well who can argue with that? Too bad HDMI cannot be daisy-chained like firewire, eh? Turns out one single firewire port can support digital playback on the XBR960 (with identical visual results as HDMI) of content from essentially an infinite number of firewire source devices... instead of requiring a fixed port for each device as HDMI does. And since you're probably not using the speakers in the XBR960 to playback DD5.1 anyway, who really needs HDMI to deliver both digital audio and digital video? It's really only the digital video that's important here, and firewire is perfectly acceptable for that purpose (although it, too, is also delivering digital audio to the XBR960)... with your digital audio likely going to your external sound system anyway.


And, I conclude, for my money there's NO visible difference in picture quality on the XBR960 when viewed through component, firewire, or HDMI... given an XBR960 that's been properly tweaked on all inputs. So I use a Zektor HDS4 component video switch for my source devices, with the 720p/1080i-capable devices going through the switch into INPUT6 and my 480p DVD player going directly into INPUT5.


In fact, I never use firewire for viewing (except for curiosity). I only use it when archiving from 6412 to D-VHS or when copying from D-VHS to D-VHS. Single-click switching input devices through the Zektor provides maximum convenience with minimal effort, while supporting more HD input sources via component than the XBR960 is designed to support (two).


----------



## njt

One of my few reservations abou the 960 was the fact that it had only 1 HDMI port. Eventually I dismissed this, and planned on going CableCard when HD DVD or BluRay takes hold. Well... that plan is now wavering as I have become addicted to the DVR. Truely one of those things that you can't imagine how you got by without it (i.e., ATM cards or EZ Pass).


This (along with countless complaints about CableCard) could be an impending issue for me (though I wouldn't trade my 960 for anything). I was reading a Sound and Vision article at the car shop yesterday though. Apparently there are Digital Recievers coming that will accept HDMI input??? I wonder if this means that when I ultimately upgrade my Sony AV Reciever that I could have one that accepts HDMI cables from my DVR and HD DVD player and outputs to an HDMI that goes to the TV?


----------



## ScottMellor

Greetings All. I just found this forum and picked up my 960n two nights ago. My buddy and I carted it up 4 flights of stairs and then spent 1/2 hour recovering, sweating, panting and staring at the 5 foot high shelf it had to go on. Somehow we got it up there with-out damage or hernia. Much asperin and Fullers ESB ensued. I'm waiting for the Adelpia guy to come to hook up my HD DVR. This will be my first HDTV experience.

I read that most of you prefer the Pro setting. Mine is very dark, and I had to adjust picture and contrast a lot. Is this normal, or should I wait to get the HD input before adjusting?


Thanks.


----------



## njt

Scott, I felt the same at first, but take the settings mentioned above and tweak from there. Everyone's eye and room are different, but the consensus settings mentioned in this thread worked for me. Congrats on the new set (and avoidance of hernias!







).


----------



## Rmutz




DSperber said:


> And, I conclude, for my money there's NO visible difference in picture quality on the XBR960 when viewed through component, firewire, or HDMI...
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response DSPerber. As far as the picture quality difference, I have to agree with you having tried all 3 hookups myself. I have an old Sony Digital non HD STB, which I hooked up to iLink, just to see what I would get, and I was amazed I was able to get HD channels thru ilink even though this was a non HD STB. I have to agree the picture quaility was the same as HDMI/Component.
> 
> 
> Anyway, it sounds like there are some great benefits with 3 ilinks, at least in your case with the DVHS. It just seems like there could be so many more uses with iLink if other devices such as DVD players could output video and not just audio through iLink. Instead, the manufactures are pushing HDMI. I guess it's a copyright thing.
> 
> 
> Rmutz


----------



## triumph66




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ScottMellor* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings All. I just found this forum and picked up my 960n two nights ago. My buddy and I carted it up 4 flights of stairs and then spent 1/2 hour recovering, sweating, panting and staring at the 5 foot high shelf it had to go on. Somehow we got it up there with-out damage or hernia. Much asperin and Fullers ESB ensued. I'm waiting for the Adelpia guy to come to hook up my HD DVR. This will be my first HDTV experience.
> 
> I read that most of you prefer the Pro setting. Mine is very dark, and I had to adjust picture and contrast a lot. Is this normal, or should I wait to get the HD input before adjusting?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



If you don't mind me asking, where did you pick up the "N" model from?


I called Sonystyle yesterday and they claimed that it wouldn't be available in the retail stores for another 30 days or so but that it could be ordered through them. Perhaps they were fibbing so that I would go ahead and order on the site. Anyhow, I need to take back my 960 and trade it for the 960N before the 30 days is up so knowing what part of the country you're in would help. As of right now it looks like I'll have to take it back and suffer XBR withdrawal while I wait for the "N" model to arrive locally.


----------



## ScottMellor

Hi-Q Audio Video Systems in Thousand Oaks, CA is where I got mine. 805 374-2771

Martin is the owner


----------



## triumph66

Thanks for the quick reply Scott.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rmutz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyway, it sounds like there are some great benefits with 3 ilinks, at least in your case with the DVHS. It just seems like there could be so many more uses with iLink if other devices such as DVD players could output video and not just audio through iLink. Instead, the manufactures are pushing HDMI. I guess it's a copyright thing.



Well, the real advantage of firewire connections is that the digital (MPEG2 today) compressed data can be sent all around through the network (assuming 5C-compliant devices), for copying, recording and playback (subject to copy protection rules). That's what allows us D-VHS lovers to build HD tape libraries of what we want, and is something that I can't imagine not having. I am unstoppingly thankful that they finally worked this out (with 5C aggreements) so that my old non-5C Panny combo has been replaced by a 5C-acceptable pair of JVC D-VHS VCRs so that I can continue to make HD tapes now as I used to do in the old Dish 5000/modulator days.


However the downside of firewire is that it is just that... a conduit for pure digital data, sent from the source to the destination. No touching or tampering along the way, but also not available for insertion of anything additional from the outside. And that means you can't add Guide data or other Menu graphics into the firewire data stream. It's just pure content. I know this is terrific from the perspective of archiving/copying (since you just do not run the risk of ruining a copy by unwittingly overlaying unintended graphics accidentally), but it also has the obvious disadvantage of requiring that you have at least one other connection method from every source device to the XBR960 so that you can look at Guide, Menu, MyDVR lists, etc.


So since you must also go either component or HDMI in order for the source/delivery devices to be able to overlay graphics onto the content data stream (which, by the way, has no impact whatsoever on the pure data firewire stream which might be going from DVR to your D-VHS at that moment) which one you pick is up to you. The number and type of HD source devices you have clearly will determine which you use, but just remember that the compressed-data path (i.e. firewire) does not support graphics overlayed onto it. Only the uncompressed-data paths (component, DVI/HDMI) can have anything additional impressed onto it from the source device.


I happen to have picked component for my setup because of the Zektor switch conveniences (which also allows me to switch digital audio), after experimentally discovering that visually I saw no difference between component and HDMI and firewire, for the same content (after I had completing tweaking the service menu for all inputs). I use INPUT6 for the Zektor (and all of its four 720p/1080i component inputs). I use INPUT5 for my 480p DVD component input.


And as I said earlier, I simply never watch anything via firewire because I can't view onscreen graphics (e.g. DVR controls or time values, VCR controls or time values, etc.) while doing so. I have to go back to component anyway. So why not just stay there permanently since visually it's identical? I do.


This is not to say fixed-pixel displays and HDMI give better results than component... for them. But for the XBR960 I don't think there's much use for HDMI yet.


Now, when HD-DVD and Blu-ray come out, well then we'll be thankful we still have a "spare" (unused so far, for me) HDMI input available.


----------



## txtravlr384




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yestfto73* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I spoke to Sony about the "N," and they said that the "N" was added to the model # when they removed the anti-glare filter from the kd-34xbr960. Instead of the filter, they added an anti-glare coating on the glass. The reason this was done, they said, was because they've had problems with dust getting into the space between the glass and the anti-glare filter. This makes for an unfortunate situation because dust in that space cannot be cleaned from the glass or the filter because the space cannot be accessed for cleaning. Thus, the dust would become a permanent feature on your TV screen. Now, I've had my kd-34xbr960 for a year now and, after careful examination of my screen, I don't seem to have that problem, at least yet (I don't yet know how my Circuit City extended warranty would cover it should I ever happen to get that problem [would they or should they replace it with an "N" model?]). Does anyone have that problem with their 960? Also, is Sony's solution to remove the anti-glare filter and replace it with an anti-glare coating on the glass a good one? Is there a difference in quality? It seems to me that an actual filter is higher quality than a coating on the glass.
> 
> 
> CW



For anyone interested, you can remove the anti-glare material from KD-34XBR960 models easily for increased light output from your tube. I accidentally scratched mine a while back, tried to buff it out, but was unable to get the edges nicely. So I took the back and front fascia off of the TV and just peeled off the plastic-with-adhesive-backing anti-glare coating off of the tube like it was scotch tape. I use my TV in a dark room so I have no need for the anti-glare and the increased light output is a nice change. It used to be like I was looking through sunglasses with it left on the TV.


Also, since my model was manufactured in Nov. 2004 and is a "KD-34XBR960" model, what is the difference between an adhesive-backed anti-glare "filter" and the "coating" on the tube of the "N" models (if that's true)? The old filter is applied directly to the tube and a "coating" is applied directly to the tube. I assume the representative from Sony was talking about dust getting underneath the plastic coating during manufacture...not after. So there's no need to worry about warranty issues with dust. It just can't happen after you purchase the TV.


----------



## spinninhye

Does anyone know from experience if using the HDMI vs using component running hdtv via a cable box actually makes a difference in picture quality?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spinninhye* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone know from experience if using the HDMI vs using component running hdtv via a cable box actually makes a difference in picture quality?



Minimal, but not earth shattering by any means.


Personally, I'm letting my DVD player have the HDMI slot and letting the HD satellite box run off of component video.


----------



## spinninhye




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Minimal, but not earth shattering by any means.
> 
> 
> Personally, I'm letting my DVD player have the HDMI slot and letting the HD satellite box run off of component video.



Running of an up conversion DVD player? Do you feel like there is any significant boost in performance using one? If so, which one?


Also, kind of off topic (but i couldn't find a topic anywhere else), are power regulators such as the ones made by panamax, worth anything? Do they even work, and will you notice any type of audio or video enhancement in clarity?


Thanks again guys.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spinninhye* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Running of an up conversion DVD player? Do you feel like there is any significant boost in performance using one? If so, which one?



Yeah, an upconverting player. In my case, my player only converts over digital connections, so that made the decision for me, so to speak.










Most upconverting players don't do it over componenent video anymore.


Same answer as before: You get a bit of a refinement, but not an earth shattering difference. You may want to browse the DVD player forum for more on this.



> Quote:
> Also, kind of off topic (but i couldn't find a topic anywhere else), are power regulators such as the ones made by panamax, worth anything? Do they even work, and will you notice any type of audio or video enhancement in clarity?
> 
> 
> Thanks again guys.



Yes, they're worth it for protecting your gear, firs t and foremost.


Audio and video improvement? Hard to say, really. Probably single digit percentile, 10 percent, give or take, at most. It depends on which of these devices you get, your gear, and tons of other variables. YMMV.










The WSR review of my Belkin PF60 stated that they felt they saw something between a 10-15 percent overall "improvement", but again, YMMV.


----------



## liquidneba

An update on my ghosting, smearing problem on my KD-34XBR960...


Today, I received a brand new KD-34XBR960N (SN: 4000333, October 2005). It came from SONY's Pittsburgh Logistics Center, 1108 Old Route 119, Mt. Pleasant, PA 15666.


I had the movers set it on the stand. I hooked it up and put in STAR WARS: The Empire Strikes Back. I jumped to my 3 scenes where I saw the smearing on my old set. I crossed my fingers.... nada same problem again.... I'm pissed, annoyed, angry, I refused the swap, they put my old TV back on the stand, packed up the new TV and left. I called up my SONY rep, got him on the phone to let him know that I refused the new TV, he apologized profusely, and that he'll be contacting the procurement department, to get me another set.


In my head, I'm thinking listen... send me ten sets so I can evaluate everything single one of them, or return me the full refund ($2200+) and I'll go to both CCs and the BB in my area and check out each XBR960/N they have.


I'll reiterate... that this smearing problem takes place on all inputs, (HD, SD, DVD) multiple DVDs, etc. So it's not specific to any one DVD movie, or player... I notice it happening all over the place.


A quick way to check if you have this problem is to put in a DVD go to the credits of the movie, bump it to 2x speed so the credits go a little faster. If you see the smearing as the names move up the screen you have the same problem as me and Brad S.


My SONY rep told me that he'll give me a call tomorrow with an update, and tomorrow night I'll update this forum!


One day... I'll get my perfect XBR960/N, it just wasn't today!


----------



## mr2828

Since my brain started noticing the "trailing", I also have spotted it in some of the space scenes when I was watching the Battlestar Galactica season 1 dvds. Sometimes when a bright engine flame moves quickly across the screen, you'll see the trailing afterimage - it looks kinda like a dark blue color maybe.


But fast moving white on black credits remain the easiest way to see it.


I'm thinking at this point it may be on all 960s, perhaps a side effect of the super-fine pitch phosphors? The effect is very "analog" looking, and occurs on all inputs no matter how you adjust things, so I'm doubting it's due to any digital processing going on inside the set.


----------



## liquidneba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr2828* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since my brain started noticing the "trailing", I also have spotted it in some of the space scenes when I was watching the Battlestar Galactica season 1 dvds. Sometimes when a bright engine flame moves quickly across the screen, you'll see the trailing afterimage - it looks kinda like a dark blue color maybe.
> 
> 
> But fast moving white on black credits remain the easiest way to see it.
> 
> 
> I'm thinking at this point it may be on all 960s, perhaps a side effect of the super-fine pitch phosphors? The effect is very "analog" looking, and occurs on all inputs no matter how you adjust things, so I'm doubting it's due to any digital processing going on inside the set.



It's starting to trouble me a little. I really hope it's not inherent to the set. But you are absolutely right, you can see this defect in any type of movie or input even after adjusting. (Doesn't really matter.) I've tried for about an hour to capture a picture when it's happening, but the flash bounces off of the screen messing up the shot.


I've had all the video processing boards swapped for new ones, no effect.


I've seen it in Ronin, Gladiator, The Last Samurai, Star Wars, Braveheart, The Matrix, Black Hawk Down, multiple TV shows HD, SD, analog, etc. etc.


Also when you slow motion the DVD, no such defect occurs. Obviously it's not part of the film. I think all of us here would appreciate if all owners of the XBR960 on this forum check their set out for this defect, as mr2828 is alluding it maybe more common than previously thought. Btw. between Brad S. and myself it makes 4 sets with this defect. Bad coincidence, I hope so.


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *liquidneba* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think all of us here would appreciate if all owners of the XBR960 on this forum check their set out for this defect, as mr2828 is alluding it maybe more common than previously thought. Btw. between Brad S. and myself it makes 4 sets with this defect. Bad coincidence, I hope so.



I would imagine, based on your repair efforts, that it is inherent in the set. I do not see the effect in places you have mentioned (scrolling text at the start of Star Wars or the Falcon scene mentioned above. I have at times noticed it on the brilliant white NY logo of the pitchers Yankaee cap against the navy blue cap background. Seems I noticed this with slower motion like a Mariano close up and a night game with strong overhead light. There have been other times where I have looked for the smae thing and seen nothing though, so I dismissed it as source.


I'm actually having some people over to watch Revenge of the Sith tonight. Should be a good sample (recent digi production with plenty of ships, lasers, etc.). So I'll keep an eye out and actually look for something.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ttenrag* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, I did make that quote, but that was when I first recieved my XBR960. As stated above I have had a change of opinion. Oops, are we not supposed to change our minds. After having the 34 for a few weeks I decided it is not big enough. SO SUE ME.
> 
> 
> I want to reply now to Squonk:
> 
> 
> Being that you have not made your purchase yet, I can offer you my own 2 cents.
> 
> WAIT.
> 
> 
> I think you would be somewhat disappointed going from a 36inch 4:3 to a 34" 16:9 unless all you plan to do is watch HD and DVD. I do believe plasma is the best choice in the 42inch range right now. I would look into the Phillips 42inch also. I think it is around $2300 with dual HDMI.
> 
> 
> Personally, I think I would just hold on to your Wega for another year or two if you can, and then upgrade.
> 
> *I have actually decided to purchase a 32inch Sony Wega (standard) for about $500.....and then in a few years I will move this to the kids playroom and buy SED 50inch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *






Just this post alone should be enough for most people, I hope, to never take your advice on anything. Who in their right minds would ever trade in something like an XBR960 in favor of some $500 analog set while arguing out of the other side of their mouth that they want something BIGGER and they want MORE HD? It couldn't make LESS sense.


To say nothing about this IQ point killing nightmare: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=596008 


In any event, I thought this was more than applicable to the situation:




nothru22's old, yet classic sig:


> Quote:
> Ijustboughtcrapitis- the disease that makes a person delude themself into believing the crap they just bought is the best because they spent too much on it.


----------



## liquidneba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would imagine, based on your repair efforts, that it is inherent in the set. I do not see the effect in places you have mentioned (scrolling text at the start of Star Wars or the Falcon scene mentioned above. I have at times noticed it on the brilliant white NY logo of the pitchers Yankaee cap against the navy blue cap background. Seems I noticed this with slower motion like a Mariano close up and a night game with strong overhead light. There have been other times where I have looked for the smae thing and seen nothing though, so I dismissed it as source.
> 
> 
> I'm actually having some people over to watch Revenge of the Sith tonight. Should be a good sample (recent digi production with plenty of ships, lasers, etc.). So I'll keep an eye out and actually look for something.



I meant the credits at the end of a movie... any movie. (White text moving up on a black screen @ 2x, look for any possible smearing.) Also, to clear up any possible confusion, my current (Sept. 2004 build date) XBR960 has this problem, also the brand spanking new (Oct. 2005) XBR960N has the same problem... Two sets... I must be one of the most unluckiest suckers ever!!!







I really hope that I've just have some rotten luck since, everything else about the TV is wonderful! Well my SONY guy didn't call me today, ergo, he'll be getting a call from me tomorrow! The saga continues....


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *liquidneba* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I meant the credits at the end of a movie... any movie. (White text moving up on a black screen @ 2x, look for any possible smearing.) Also, to clear up any possible confusion, my current (Sept. 2004 build date) XBR960 has this problem, also the brand spanking new (Oct. 2005) XBR960N has the same problem... Two sets... I must be one of the most unluckiest suckers ever!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really hope that I've just have some rotten luck since, everything else about the TV is wonderful! Well my SONY guy didn't call me today, ergo, he'll be getting a call from me tomorrow! The saga continues....



Yeah, I've been following you on this for a while. I sure hope things work out for you soon!


----------



## Brad Smith

Since liquidneba has given us all an update, and we've been discussing this issue privately, I just wanted to drop in with a quick update on my end. At the moment I am not in communication with Sony after they stonewalled me last time, but I have now seen a total of four xbr960 or the sister xs model televisions with this problem (three xbrs, one xs).


----------



## mr2828

I'm really thinking this is something like mpeg artifacting or DLP rainbows, that some people can easily see once they begin spotting it, but other people just never quite can see unless it becomes very bad and obvious.


The trailing is relatively subtle when it happens, and if conditions aren't just quite right it doesn't even occur at all. It's wouldn't be surprising that it is happening on every single 960 (and possibly other sets using similar phosphors) but only a small percentage of people notice it.


----------



## MrWolfe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *txtravlr384* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For anyone interested, you can remove the anti-glare material from KD-34XBR960 models easily for increased light output from your tube. I accidentally scratched mine a while back, tried to buff it out, but was unable to get the edges nicely. So I took the back and front fascia off of the TV and just peeled off the plastic-with-adhesive-backing anti-glare coating off of the tube like it was scotch tape. I use my TV in a dark room so I have no need for the anti-glare and the increased light output is a nice change. It used to be like I was looking through sunglasses with it left on the TV.
> 
> 
> Also, since my model was manufactured in Nov. 2004 and is a "KD-34XBR960" model, what is the difference between an adhesive-backed anti-glare "filter" and the "coating" on the tube of the "N" models (if that's true)? The old filter is applied directly to the tube and a "coating" is applied directly to the tube. I assume the representative from Sony was talking about dust getting underneath the plastic coating during manufacture...not after. So there's no need to worry about warranty issues with dust. It just can't happen after you purchase the TV.



I have the KD-34XBR960 model with manufactured date of Jan. 2005. I am very concious of my electronic equipment and take great measures to ensure the upkeep in both performance and appearance of all my equipment. A few weeks ago, while cleaning the screen with an optical cleaning solution specially designed for optics with an anti-glare coating and a microfiber cloth, i noticed that the coating on screen started to come off. Now, i have this huge spot on the screen where the the anti-glare coating has come off and causes an annoying hot spotting effect on the screen. I purchased this set from my local Circuit City in March with a 5 year extended warranty. Do you think they will cover this under their warranty? Any suggestions and feedback will be greatly appreciated!


Thank you,

MrWolfe


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *liquidneba* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think all of us here would appreciate if all owners of the XBR960 on this forum check their set out for this defect, as mr2828 is alluding it maybe more common than previously thought. Btw. between Brad S. and myself it makes 4 sets with this defect. Bad coincidence, I hope so.



Well I watched Episode III looking for this and just couldn't see it. Plenty of ships against black backgrounds, opening and credit text (albeit yellow and blue), etc. I the wanted to check a movie with white credits. Lemme tell ya... do you know how hard it is to find a movie with white credit text?







My method of grabbing 5 random dvds off the shelf didn't yield one. I guess I never really noticed what color credits were (assumed they were all white).


On a serious note the Sith DVD on this set is just stunning. The level of detail and richness of effects just blew me away. Even if you aren't a fan of the SW series, this is worth a rental just to appreciate the production value.


Liquid - have you had components replaced or the actual TV? If the latter, have you also seen the same issue with store sets after adjusting settings?


----------



## high def mon

High all


Sorry about joining this thread late. I just bought a XS955 so I don't have the TV in question, but from what I'm told very close. I have noticed trailing or smearing only in vivid, so I'm in pro now and very happy. Looking forward to trying my hand at calibration soon for even more improvement. Just my .02 worth.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *high def mon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> High all
> 
> 
> Sorry about joining this thread late. I just bought a SX955 so I don't have the TV in question, but from what I'm told very close. I have noticed trailing or smearing only in vivid, so I'm in pro now and very happy. Looking forward to trying my hand at calibration soon for even more improvement. Just my .02 worth.



I'd like to think good calibration would virtually eliminate this problem for most of the people that have it...


----------



## high def mon

speaking of good calibration, is there an advantage to using the DIGITAL video essentials over just the old Video essentials?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *high def mon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> speaking of good calibration, is there an advantage to using the DIGITAL video essentials over just the old Video essentials?



I would suspect Digital would be better, for newer tests, HD related tests, and so forth.


----------



## high def mon

With that in mind would waiting for Blu Ray and or HDDVD calibration disk be even more advantages?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *high def mon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> With that in mind would waiting for Blu Ray and or HDDVD calibration disk be even more advantages?



You'll be waiting for a very long time.


----------



## high def mon

High all thanks for the reply's


Is there a more current site for up to the minute info for HD DVD than this one:
http://www.hddvd.org/hddvd/


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *high def mon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> High all thanks for the reply's
> 
> 
> Is there a more current site for up to the minute info for HD DVD than this one:
> http://www.hddvd.org/hddvd/



If you go to the websites for leading magazines like Widescreen Review, Home Theater Magazine, etc. and hit their news areas, those will keep you up to date quite promptly.


Even if you don't subscribe to the print mags (which you should







, get on their email lists for free and informative newsletters. Good stuff!


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'd like to think good calibration would virtually eliminate this problem for most of the people that have it...



I tend to agree. I'm at the point (6 weeks usage) where I planned to get my ISF calibartion. I'm hesitant to do it as I'm so satisfied with my picture, but based on countless posts I suppose it can only get better.


----------



## txtravlr384

MrWolfe,

What you are "cleaning" is not the same anti-glare material as that used for optics. This anti-glare material is based on a thin, plastic sheet that is glued to the front of the glass CRT. Like most plastics, the plastic sheet doesn't behave the same way to solvents as glass does. The best method to clean this type of TV screen is to follow the manufacturer's directions: "Unplug the set from the wall outlet before cleaning or polishing it. Do not use liquid cleaners or aerosol cleaners. Use a cloth lightly dampened with water for cleaning the exterior of the set."


I'm pretty sure the warranty wouldn't apply since this isn't a manufacturing defect, but the dealer or manufacturer may see it differently.


If you're stuck with the TV as-is, before doing anything, does the hot-spot look more reflective than the rest of the screen with the TV off? If so, you have lost your anti-glare function from that spot. If you wouldn't mind losing the anti-glare over the entire screen, try applying the cleaning solution to the entire screen and see if you can even out the "hot-spot." I found when trying to buff the anti-glare sheet with a drill & buffer, only the surface of the sheet has the anti-glare properties. There is a lot of plastic beneath it that seems to be homogenous and clear.


You purchased the 5-yr. warranty and performing the following steps may void that entirely. So take what I say next lightly and contemplate it very carefully before you proceed...


If all else fails and if it were mine (I already did it...who am I kidding?), I'd remove the entire anti-glare plastic sheet. Then you'd be left with a nice, even, bright, glass surface to clean with whatever solution you'd like...as glass is almost completely imperviable and unaffected by anything chemical. Glass is also very hard to scratch.


CAUTION: TO REDUCE THE RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK, DO NOT REMOVE COVER (OR BACK) OF THE TELEVISION. NO USER SERVICEABLE PARTS ARE INSIDE. REFER SERVICING TO QUALIFIED SERVICE PERSONNEL.


As always, never expose the components inside a TV unless you are knowledgeable of all the electrical dangers and procedures for handling exposed components. Even when a TV is unplugged, there can be deadly, high voltages present.


This procedure requires you to:

1. Remove the back of the TV

2. Remove the subwoofer assembly.

3. Remove the subwoofer mounting brackets.

4. Remove the screws attaching the front fascia (Dark Gray frame around front of CRT tube). I found the screws on the bottom edge of the fascia are too hard to remove without removing component level boards. It isn't necessary to remove these screws since the top of the fascia is flexible enough for the purpose of this procedure.

5. Release snaps of fascia bosses (some parts of fascia snap into TV frame) from main body of TV.

6. Remove sticky foil grounding tape attached to the bottom of the anti-glare plastic sheet. You'll have to pull the bottom of the fascia away from the frame to see the tape. Don't pull too hard or you may break the fascia.

7. Remove the anti-glare plastic sheet by SLOWLY pulling one corner of it off the CRT and keep pulling it parallel to the tube. If you remove it too quickly or pull at a 90 degree angle to the tube, a glue residue is left behind that requires additional cleaning afterwards (peanut butter worked for me - no kidding). I put all my weight (210 lbs.) into taking this sheet off. It comes off, but slowly. I don't think it's possible to rip this stuff if all you use are your hands.

8. Reattach the sticky foil grounding tape to the glass tube.

9. Follow steps 1 through 5 in reverse to put the TV back together.


You are left without any anti-glare, but as I found out, the picture was preferable to the picture before because the image is brighter and my viewing room is void of any bright surfaces or sources that could cause a reflection on the TV screen.


----------



## PGHammer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DyeLooper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What would something like this cost? I might be in. I live in Cecil County, MD
> 
> 
> DyeLooper



Since I missed out on buying the KD-30XS955 during the BB firesale, I am moving up (reluctantly) to *this* particular Sony. My reluctance is NOT due to the set's picture, or even due to the set's price (though it *is* at the northern end of my price range), but due to the set's *size* (specifically, the one hundred and eighty-five pounds in *weight* of this Komodo Dragon of 34" sets). It has (naturally) all the features of the pretty-much e-tail-only KD-34XS955, and for, amazingly, the same price (and it includes features that the XS lacks; however, none of these are deal-makers, since I like the XS model's picture also), but, as I pointed out, the XBR is actually purchasable retail within pickup-truck distance (while the local BB doesn't stock it, the local CC, which is, quite embarrassingly, right next door to BB, does, and for the same price), while the XS isn't.


Why the XBR (or XS) as opposed to the KV-34HS420? One term: CableCARD. I have NO interest in OnDemand whatever; and the on-screen guide and PPV are also non-starters (Comcast of Southern Prince George's County, MD). Aside from a larger version of the same fantastic picture that I admired in the KD-30XS955, I am not stuck with the HD or DVR box that the KV-34HS420 would stick me with (we actually have the HS in the living room; however, it is fed a steady diet of SD analog cable, as there are no fans of the big bulky digital cable box in our household). Worse, I am the *only* fan of HDTV in the house (I'm also the only person to do any due dilligence on it, which is likely why), so the big XBR will be going into my *bedroom* (fortunately, I have an entertainment center in said bedroom that could even hold the even-larger KD-36XS955, which, despite the $400 cheaper price, is not on the table because it is NOT widescreen!).


However, I am wondering when the changeover from the 960 to the 960N occurred? Both Circuit City and Best Buy list the model number as 960, NOT 960N. Is there a specific way of determining which model a set is while still in the packaging container?


----------



## PGHammer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dnsw06* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> These battery backups are made for computers aren't they? Are there any surge protectors out there that rate 1200 VA?



Actually, APC makes a 1.5 kVa suppressor/conditioner for A/V usage (as well as a 1 kVa model). Both are designed for entertainment centers (not PC racks), as you usually would NOT want a UPS for a larger TV, especially a CRT; however, a surge suppressor/power conditioner is a smart *investment* with A/V equipment. I'm looking at the 1.5 kVa model for my entertainment center (and will at some point buy a second for my Mom's EC in the living room). The living room has the KV-34HS420 as the centerpiece, but also has a stereo system and 5-disc CD changer in addition to the Toshiba progressive-scan DVD player, and Admiral VCR. My own EC has a Polaroid DVD player/VCR (the DVD player side supports progressive-scan and YPbPr-out with optical audio-out), but I am looking at a Sony 5.1 surround A/V system (the model with the integrated progressive-scan DVD player) to complete my own setup for now.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PGHammer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My reluctance is NOT due to the set's picture, or even due to the set's price ... but due to the set's *size* (specifically, the one hundred and eighty-five pounds in *weight* of this Komodo Dragon of 34" sets).



While it is possible that the XS955 weighs 185 pounds, let it be noted that the XBR960 tilts the scale at 196 pounds.


This is important to know so you can evaluate the carrying capacity of the stand or other furniture on which you will be placing the set (along with your other A/V equipment).


While I have only moved my XBR960 only once (taking it from the packing material to the stand, about ten feet in distance) I was quite surprised at how well balanced the set was when carrying via the handholds specified in the manual. I don't consider myself a strong person, but it was quite easy for two people to pick it up and move it that short distance.


----------



## Schmekel1992

I just bought my xbr960 last week, and a best buy employee told me an up-scan dvd player is best for the tv. I've been using the LG LDA-511, but it renders the cinemotion on the tv unavailable. I don't have experience in the HD dvd players and I think I could do better than the LG. Does anybody have a suggestion or maybe a comment on this. Anything would be appreciated.


----------



## abstraxion

I can buy this thing for $1436 with employee discount at Fry's... this is a good deal, isn't it?


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Schmekel1992* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just bought my xbr960 last week, and a best buy employee told me an up-scan dvd player is best for the tv. I've been using the LG LDA-511, but it renders the cinemotion on the tv unavailable. I don't have experience in the HD dvd players and I think I could do better than the LG. Does anybody have a suggestion or maybe a comment on this. Anything would be appreciated.



I have been very happy with the Sony 70h DVD player for my 960. Excellent PQ and none of the shifting issues that the plasma and PJ owners are having. MSRP is $150, but CC has it on sale almost every week for less. FYI, you need to turn off the progressive scan on your LG and have it pass 480i to use the cinemotion and DRC features of your XBR960.


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abstraxion* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I can buy this thing for $1436 with employee discount at Fry's... this is a good deal, isn't it?



Excellent! I'd grab it assuming: it isn't a floor model, it is't an open box/return and the vendor is authorized to sell a Sony XBR.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abstraxion* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I can buy this thing for $1436 with employee discount at Fry's... this is a good deal, isn't it?



A STEAL!


----------



## liquidneba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PGHammer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since I missed out on buying the KD-30XS955 during the BB firesale, I am moving up (reluctantly) to *this* particular Sony. My reluctance is NOT due to the set's picture, or even due to the set's price (though it *is* at the northern end of my price range), but due to the set's *size* (specifically, the one hundred and eighty-five pounds in *weight* of this Komodo Dragon of 34" sets). It has (naturally) all the features of the pretty-much e-tail-only KD-34XS955, and for, amazingly, the same price (and it includes features that the XS lacks; however, none of these are deal-makers, since I like the XS model's picture also), but, as I pointed out, the XBR is actually purchasable retail within pickup-truck distance (while the local BB doesn't stock it, the local CC, which is, quite embarrassingly, right next door to BB, does, and for the same price), while the XS isn't.
> 
> 
> Why the XBR (or XS) as opposed to the KV-34HS420? One term: CableCARD. I have NO interest in OnDemand whatever; and the on-screen guide and PPV are also non-starters (Comcast of Southern Prince George's County, MD). Aside from a larger version of the same fantastic picture that I admired in the KD-30XS955, I am not stuck with the HD or DVR box that the KV-34HS420 would stick me with (we actually have the HS in the living room; however, it is fed a steady diet of SD analog cable, as there are no fans of the big bulky digital cable box in our household). Worse, I am the *only* fan of HDTV in the house (I'm also the only person to do any due dilligence on it, which is likely why), so the big XBR will be going into my *bedroom* (fortunately, I have an entertainment center in said bedroom that could even hold the even-larger KD-36XS955, which, despite the $400 cheaper price, is not on the table because it is NOT widescreen!).
> 
> 
> However, I am wondering when the changeover from the 960 to the 960N occurred? Both Circuit City and Best Buy list the model number as 960, NOT 960N. Is there a specific way of determining which model a set is while still in the packaging container?



The KD-34XBR960N's are in the Pa. warehouse. I know this since I received one as a replacement for my TV. On one of the sticky labels on the outside of the box from the TV I received it was clearly typed out with the model designation. Hope that helps ya!


----------



## liquidneba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well I watched Episode III looking for this and just couldn't see it. Plenty of ships against black backgrounds, opening and credit text (albeit yellow and blue), etc. I the wanted to check a movie with white credits. Lemme tell ya... do you know how hard it is to find a movie with white credit text?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My method of grabbing 5 random dvds off the shelf didn't yield one. I guess I never really noticed what color credits were (assumed they were all white).
> 
> 
> On a serious note the Sith DVD on this set is just stunning. The level of detail and richness of effects just blew me away. Even if you aren't a fan of the SW series, this is worth a rental just to appreciate the production value.
> 
> 
> Liquid - have you had components replaced or the actual TV? If the latter, have you also seen the same issue with store sets after adjusting settings?




My original TV, 3 video processing boards have been replaced to no effect.



Okay to help anyone interested in checking if their TV has this defect that mine and Brad's has, read on... If you want to live in ignorant bliss... skip!


As I've written before, this phenomenon happens on all inputs, I'm going to refer to my trustworthy DVD: STARS WARS EPISODE 5, The Empire Strikes Back


EXAMPLE 1:

Jump to chapter 27 and ff to (58:10 - 58:17). This is where Leia is in the cockpit of the millenium falcon getting scared by the Mynock. I've uploaded a file where I paintshopped green lines around the lights that cause a smear on my TV. The smearing occurs when the camera pans when she stands up to investigate the noise and when she recoils.


EXAMPLE 2:

Jump to chapter 30 and FF to (1:07:27 - 1:07:31) This is where the Millenium Falcon races across the screen to attack the Star Destroyer Avenger. I've uploaded a file where I outlined area where the smearing occurs, right after the falcon quits its "afterburner".


EXAMPLE 3:

Same chapter, FF to (1:08:06 - 1:08:09) This is where Captain Needa and another officer on the bridge of the Avenger are talking to each other, and Capt. Needa turns away at the end of the scene. The smearing occurs as Needa turns away. I've also uploaded a file showing where the smearing occurs in relation to his head as it moves out of the shot.


Since I can't upload a fourth picture, I'll finish my post in another post!


----------



## liquidneba

EXAMPLE 4:

Jump to Chapter 32 and FF to (1:16:23 - 1:16:29). This is where Boba Fett's ship flies across the screen in pursuit of the Millenium Falcon. I see the smearing from the ship's engines as it flies by on the screen. I've uploaded a file showing when it occurs.


Btw. when I pause and go frame by frame, the smearing doesn't occur at all, only when I play at normal speed. So... please check this out and reply back when you get a chance. I hope some of you peeps have this DVD. I can do a similar post for another DVD if necessary.


Let us know how it goes!


----------



## liquidneba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yeah, I've been following you on this for a while. I sure hope things work out for you soon!




Q,


Thanks for the vote of confidence, my SONY rep told me that a new TV will be shipping out next week... (Holding my breath!... Long Breath!)


----------



## mr2828

Although I haven't checked that particular dvd, the areas and situations you highlight are typical of situations where I notice the trailing. Typically in a dark scene, like a space scene, with a bright moving detail that leaves behind it a very quickly fading / trailing non-black spot momentarily. The trailing looks like a dark blueish or greenish color to me, but it's so quick it's hard for me to tell for sure.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *liquidneba* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Q,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the vote of confidence, my SONY rep told me that a new TV will be shipping out next week... (Holding my breath!... Long Breath!)



THAT's one way to end a problem: Get a new TV!


----------



## liquidneba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> THAT's one way to end a problem: Get a new TV!



The bad thing Q, it takes a few weeks for the next TV to arrive. I rather have SONY cut me a check for the full amount and I'll go shopping at CC and BB. (Where I'll check out each TV they have in stock) So far I must have a magnetic attraction to defective sets! I have confidence that this next new TV is a good one.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *liquidneba* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The bad thing Q, it takes a few weeks for the next TV to arrive. I rather have SONY cut me a check for the full amount and I'll go shopping at CC and BB. (Where I'll check out each TV they have in stock) So far I must have a magnetic attraction to defective sets! I have confidence that this next new TV is a good one.



That's a good point but...ya see...if they cut you a check, then they don't have ANY guarantees that you're going to go out and buy another one of THEIR products.


----------



## liquidneba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr2828* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Although I haven't checked that particular dvd, the areas and situations you highlight are typical of situations where I notice the trailing. Typically in a dark scene, like a space scene, with a bright moving detail that leaves behind it a very quickly fading / trailing non-black spot momentarily. The trailing looks like a dark blueish or greenish color to me, but it's so quick it's hard for me to tell for sure.



That's exactly what it is. You can see this in many movies like the ones I mentioned in a past post. And its for a split second. What annoys me about this particular movie is that it happens a lot to Darth Vader, since he's so black and when he walks in front another character you can see that character's shape briefly outlined on Vader. (in a darker scene, like on the space ships). Btw. this is very imperceptible... I remember when I was showing to my local service tech.. I had to go over the scene like 5 times or so before he saw anything. But saw it, he did!


----------



## Brad Smith

I see it in literally everything I watch these days, too. Heck, I even saw it with the lights in last nights Nebraska vs. Oklahoma volleyball match on the local PBS station (one of their HD broadcasts). Anyway, while I'm sure that a professional calibration would make my TV's PQ even better, I doubt that it would fix the trailing issue. I'm already pretty well-calibrated with the Avia disc.


----------



## liquidneba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's a good point but...ya see...if they cut you a check, then they don't have ANY guarantees that you're going to go out and buy another one of THEIR products.



Oh I want an XBR960... most definetely it's the best set on the market bar none! Actually if you recall I bought the set slightly used with the stand for $1400 in June. I have the original receipt which states over $2200 (including taxes). So they would cut the check in the orginal full amount and then I would look for a coupon or sale and pick up the TV again in the $1600-1700 range! Either way no big deal... I make enough money... though it would be sweet, and payment for the misery!!!


----------



## liquidneba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Smith* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I see it in literally everything I watch these days, too. Heck, I even saw it with the lights in last nights Nebraska vs. Oklahoma volleyball match on the local PBS station (one of their HD broadcasts). Anyway, while I'm sure that a professional calibration would make my TV's PQ even better, I doubt that it would fix the trailing issue. I'm already pretty well-calibrated with the Avia disc.




Brad I'll fax you some stuff tomorrow to help you with your brawl with SONY. I was super busy at work the last two days!


----------



## Fuzzyphi

I noticed it on 3 of the 4 scenes you mentioned, but I would have never noticed it if I wasn't looking for it. I would imagine it is part of everyone's set. It has never bothered me. I hope you didn't ruin my perception of my set.


----------



## njt

Oooohhh. Excellent specifics liquid! Yes I see them. I don't think I would have caught them without scrutinizing those seconds and sittiung a few feet from the set but the Leia cockpit scene, in particular, is obvious. I'm assuming you used these test scenes on other types of sets and they aren't there to rule out source, right?


----------



## liquidneba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Oooohhh. Excellent specifics liquid! Yes I see them. I don't think I would have caught them without scrutinizing those seconds and sittiung a few feet from the set but the Leia cockpit scene, in particular, is obvious. I'm assuming you used these test scenes on other types of sets and they aren't there to rule out source, right?



I wish... I was watching the same scenes on my computer, they aren't there. Plus I watched it on a friends SONY LCD RPTV. Nada. Shucks! I'm sitting about 8 feet from my set, but I've seen for so many months my eyeballs are sensitive to this defect. So what does this all mean....


----------



## njt

Hmmm. Well my initial reaction is to say that it's an inherrent "con" to the set and possibly the technology, that could be mitigated by an ISF calibration (though I would have to *not* see the effect on the same type of set with my own eyes to support that).


As to what it reallly means... you've laid the groundwork for that answer. Your detailed post will allow a number of people to check the scenes and respond. If it's not a defect there should be people in large numbers that don't see it.


Sadly it could also be something that certain people see (like the DLP example above).


----------



## liquidneba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hmmm. Well my initial reaction is to say that it's an inherrent "con" to the set and possibly the technology, that could be mitigated by an ISF calibration (though I would have to *not* see the effect on the same type of set with my own eyes to support that).
> 
> 
> As to what it reallly means... you've laid the groundwork for that answer. Your detailed post will allow a number of people to check the scenes and respond. If it's not a defect there should be people in large numbers that don't see it.
> 
> 
> Sadly it could also be something that certain people see (like the DLP example above).



At this point... I'm still hoping that it's only a few sets. I did go into CC and check out another XBR960. I didn't see it on there... but the lighting in the store might wash the details out. I'll have to make another trip over there or to BB to verify.


I think I'm going to try do the Matrix, with a few examples as well, most people have it in their collections.


The reason I'm getting a new set, is that the technical representative for the Northeast agrees that it's a defect that can't be fixed on my set by replacing the processing boards. I don't think an ISF calibration will do much, I hope I'm wrong though. Anyone here with ISFed XBR960s if you have the Star Wars DVD please check, in a few days I'll do a Matrix post with examples. Also anyone seeing this should start contacting Sony Customer Service. The factory warranties start expiring July 2006. Any trouble with them, just PM me and I'll help you through it.



I know I'm not suspectible to the DLP effect, but anyone I point out this thing sees it quite clearly after a few times.


later,


----------



## mr2828

The thing is with this trailing, I've had my set for a year now, and I didn't notice it until maybe 2 months ago. But once I started noticing it I can't stop... on the other hand it doesn't bug me much generally, and I could probably put up with it indefinitely if it turned out to occur on essentially all recent Sony CRT sets.


----------



## dnsw06




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PGHammer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Actually, APC makes a 1.5 kVa suppressor/conditioner for A/V usage (as well as a 1 kVa model). Both are designed for entertainment centers (not PC racks), as you usually would NOT want a UPS for a larger TV, especially a CRT; however, a surge suppressor/power conditioner is a smart *investment* with A/V equipment. I'm looking at the 1.5 kVa model for my entertainment center (and will at some point buy a second for my Mom's EC in the living room).



Yeah, I ended up going this route based mainly on the fact that battery backups for computers could not protect your system from serges over coaxial cables and like you said these were designed for ECs.


----------



## lsfrankel

My 34XBR960 is about two months old and other than playing around with the choices in the onscreen menu a bit, I am thrilled with the TV. But I keep reading about people spending hundreds of dollars to change some settings in a service menu or by purchasing a DAVID (AVIA I believe). Is there some trick to enter any other menus or features that only certain technicians know about? Okay, what is it, please? And what exactly is meant by convergence being out of whack? What should I be looking for regarding 'convergence'? Thank you


----------



## PGHammer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> While it is possible that the XS955 weighs 185 pounds, let it be noted that the XBR960 tilts the scale at 196 pounds.
> 
> 
> This is important to know so you can evaluate the carrying capacity of the stand or other furniture on which you will be placing the set (along with your other A/V equipment).
> 
> 
> While I have only moved my XBR960 only once (taking it from the packing material to the stand, about ten feet in distance) I was quite surprised at how well balanced the set was when carrying via the handholds specified in the manual. I don't consider myself a strong person, but it was quite easy for two people to pick it up and move it that short distance.



The entertainment center it is going in can hold the even heavier Sony KD-36XS955 (which didn't make my shortlist because it is NOT a widescreen set), so it can hold it without any problems. I just never planned to have that much screen in a bedroom with less than eight feet of viewing distance to the TV at the farthest angle (typical viewing distance from the head of my bed is barely six and a half feet, and the head is against the bedroom's back wall). It has four times the viewing area of the 19" 4:3 set it will replace.


Sony TVs *are* well-balanced (remember, I mentioned our having the KV-34HS420 in our living room), and swiveling the set to one side to get at the rear panel and jacks was surprisingly easy for such a behemoth.


I'll be pulling the trigger within the next five days, so wish me luck.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lsfrankel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My 34XBR960 is about two months old and other than playing around with the choices in the onscreen menu a bit, I am thrilled with the TV. But I keep reading about people spending hundreds of dollars to change some settings in a service menu or by purchasing a DAVID (AVIA I believe). Is there some trick to enter any other menus or features that only certain technicians know about? Okay, what is it, please? And what exactly is meant by convergence being out of whack? What should I be looking for regarding 'convergence'? Thank you



Do a search for Ken Tech's Sony Service code thread. Read it in it's entirety. Read the warnings several times then pick up the phone and call a professional.


See

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=599866


----------



## lsfrankel

You include a hyperlink that takes me to three other posters in a similar situation rather than a link to Ken Tech's ..... That search doesn't work so well.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lsfrankel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You include a hyperlink that takes me to three other posters in a similar situation rather than a link to Ken Tech's ..... That search doesn't work so well.



http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...t=Sony+Service


----------



## lsfrankel

WOW! Now that's what I call a terrific hyperlink. Thank you so much.


----------



## getthenoob

can the xbr960 do 720p?


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lsfrankel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You include a hyperlink that takes me to three other posters in a similar situation rather than a link to Ken Tech's ..... That search doesn't work so well.



If you cannot locate KenTech's thread then you need not locate the service menu.


I included the other link to serve as a warning to you. The service menu is not a place to go cluelessly. If you do your research you can have an excellent picture with SM tweaks. If you don't, you'll join the thread I posted the link to.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...t=Sony+Service



Q, I'm blaming you when it happens.


----------



## tivotony

Quick Question, off topic.


I'm planning to pull the trigger on this model in a week to 10 days. I've seen it referred to as the KD34XBR960, the KD34XBR960"N", and the KD34XBR960"DAM."


Anyone know what the "N" and the "DAM" stand for, and does it make a difference which model designation I purchase?


I appreciate the assistance.


----------



## njt

The DAM model just means it looks so good when you turn it on you'll say "Dammmmmmmmmmmnnnnnnnn!"










Seriously though, the N model has to do with the type of anti-glare material applied to the tube. It was the source of great intrigue and is fully detailed about three pages up. As for the DAM model, it's the first I am hearing of it. I would google it and check Sonystyle.com for any info.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Q, I'm blaming you when it happens.



Blame KenTech! His name's all over it!


----------



## esote1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmk66* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looking at this tv and would love to get it if it will fit.
> 
> Was quoted $1440 delivered plus tax. Is that a good price currently? Thanks.



Would you mind sharing where you got this quote? I am planning to get one as well but I'm limited to stores on the west coast. I have to haul it up to Canada.


----------



## PJeff

I just got my 34xbr960 a couple weeks ago, but I'm having a problem. When I watch a DVD or HDTV I'm getting a red/purple looking flare on the left edge of the screen. It is around 2"-3" in diameter to start, but shrinks down to almost nothing if I just let it go. Is this normal or should I call a service center?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PJeff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just got my 34xbr960 a couple weeks ago, but I'm having a problem. When I watch a DVD or HDTV I'm getting a red/purple looking flare on the left edge of the screen. It is around 2"-3" in diameter to start, but shrinks down to almost nothing if I just let it go. Is this normal or should I call a service center?



Any speakers nearby? Anything with a magnetic or electromagnetic field nearby?


Probably just needs to be degaussed a few more times, which will happen whenever you turn the TV on and off.


----------



## PJeff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Any speakers nearby? Anything with a magnetic or electromagnetic field nearby?
> 
> 
> Probably just needs to be degaussed a few more times, which will happen whenever you turn the TV on and off.



I do have speakers nearby, but they are supposed to be magnetically shielded.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PJeff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I do have speakers nearby, but they are supposed to be magnetically shielded.



Same here. I have the same little problem with my center speaker sitting on top of my XBR960. My speakers are also magnetically shielded.


It's so miniscule that I don't even motice it anymore. It certainly isn't worth me buying new furniture or building shelves or what not.


----------



## PJeff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Same here. I have the same little problem with my center speaker sitting on top of my XBR960. My speakers are also magnetically shielded.
> 
> 
> It's so miniscule that I don't even motice it anymore. It certainly isn't worth me buying new furniture or building shelves or what not.



So if I move the center speaker off of the top of the TV would that eliminate the problem?


----------



## algaray

Yes. That should eliminate the magnetic field.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PJeff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So if I move the center speaker off of the top of the TV would that eliminate the problem?




Yup, almost certainly.


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PJeff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just got my 34xbr960 a couple weeks ago, but I'm having a problem. When I watch a DVD or HDTV I'm getting a red/purple looking flare on the left edge of the screen. It is around 2"-3" in diameter to start, but shrinks down to almost nothing if I just let it go. Is this normal or should I call a service center?



I recently started having the same issue. Most likely culprit for you is what others mention (speakers close to the set). Mine however are 4' away from the set and the issue is occasional (leading me to belive it is the surge protector full degausing mentioned earlier in the thread).


I have found that unplugging/plugging the set always clears the issue up and am now trying to run the TV plug through the cable box.


----------



## AHammer16




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PJeff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just got my 34xbr960 a couple weeks ago, but I'm having a problem. When I watch a DVD or HDTV I'm getting a red/purple looking flare on the left edge of the screen. It is around 2"-3" in diameter to start, but shrinks down to almost nothing if I just let it go. Is this normal or should I call a service center?



I have the same problem. When i first purchased the unit last year at this time it was all on the left side of the screen at the corners. Called a tech out from tweeter and they said it was a magnetic field from some where in my house. I looked at him and said he was crazy. Then later i had a second tech come out and tell me that the shadow mask was broken loose. I know now that the unit does not have a shadow mask but an aperture grille. Anyway, they took the TV from me and replaced the ENTIRE tube. Got the TV back > 6weeks later and it had small spots in the bottom corners now. Over time they have gotten worse.


If it was a magnetic issue the spots would not have changed locations, and I do not have any speakers around the TV to cause problems.


Am I just being a whiny bastard? I think if a pay $2000 for a TV that it should work correctly, no?


I already have a scheduled appt for an sony auth. serviceman to come out on the 16 of this month.


Anybody have any suggestions? Would this be a convergance issue?

What sould i ask the service tech.? What steps shoud I see him do to comfirm that he is a pro and not Forrest Gump working on my TV?


BTW i know the unit has curvature issues.I can see them when i watch in 4:3.


Thankx all

AHammer16


----------



## njt

Are you saying that they are there and do not go away? Even after unplugging and replugging the set? A poster earlier in this thread felt that some surge protectors do no allow for a full degausing... perhaps that is the issue in your case.


You are not being whinny and are correct in your expectation for a functiong set. You are well within Sony's warranty and will likely get it. One piece of unsolicited advice though... don't call the techs crazy. I've found that when dealing with csrs and techs it's beneficial to be polite and document, document, document.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are you saying that they are there and do not go away? Even after unplugging and replugging the set? A poster earlier in this thread felt that some surge protectors do no allow for a full degausing... perhaps that is the issue in your case.
> 
> 
> You are not being whinny and are correct in your expectation for a functiong set. You are well within Sony's warranty and will likely get it. One piece of unsolicited advice though... don't call the techs crazy. I've found that when dealing with csrs and techs it's beneficial to be polite and document, document, document.



And if you haven't done so yet, in addition to all of this...get an ISF calibration.


----------



## getthenoob

does the xbr960 do 720p?


----------



## GLX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *getthenoob* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> does the xbr960 do 720p?



Yes it supports 720p. It upconverts it to 1080i.


----------



## QuiescentWonder

I've been doing some research for the past few months on TVs because I'm looking into buying a new one. Wanting the best in quality for my home entertainment I thought the XBR960 was exactly what I wanted. I came across the XBR960 on my own and then a few weeks later noticed it as being the "king" of televisions (or something similar) on a magazine cover. I also noticed all the good reviews that it got. I figured that because it was a CRT it could just change resolutions and display both 720p and 1080i because they are "supported formats" according to Sony. Now that I've found out that the 720p is upconverted to 1080i I'm reconcidering. Is there even such a thing as a HD CRT that will run both 1080i and 720p resolutions instead of converting between one or the other? Is it even going to be noticable? I was really looking forward to watching DVDs in progressive scan format.


Sorry if I missed something, I read through a good five or six pages of posts. I hope I didn't repost anything.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *QuiescentWonder* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry if I missed something, I read through a good five or six pages of posts. I hope I didn't repost anything.



Well, with over 86+ pages as of now in this discussion thread alone, I suspect you might have missed a few things!










Anyways, welcome to the discussion. Everyone here is quite nice and very helpful.


Before any of us recap the 720p/1080i situation, is there anything besides thinking that watching DVDs in progressive scan look better that lead you to believe that 720p is necessary?


----------



## GLX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *QuiescentWonder* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is it even going to be noticable?



No. If it was the KD-34XBR960 would not have the reputation it does.



> Quote:
> I was really looking forward to watching DVDs in progressive scan format.



480p is progressive scan (and is the highest resolution that DVD's can be displayed in as of now). I fail to see why having the KD-34XBR960 display native 720p is a factor at all for you. Especially since there is no perceivable diference between upconverting 720p to 1080i and having native 720p.


----------



## AHammer16




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> And if you haven't done so yet, in addition to all of this...get an ISF calibration.



ISF calibration?


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AHammer16* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ISF calibration?


 http://www.imagingscience.com/isf-trained.cfm


----------



## QuiescentWonder

Sorry, I'm still trying to make my way through all this technology as most of it was completely alien to me just a few months ago. I guess watching 720p programming was more important than the progressive scan DVDs. Which I failed to remember were not in 720p. The TV doesn't run any resolution other than 1080i (from what I've gathered so far) so I would be watching DVDs on an interlaced screen. I guess that if it isn't really noticable though it doesn't make any difference. It depends on who you talk to from what I've been able to figure out. Because I don't have much experience with HDTVs myself I couldn't tell if I would notice the difference or not.


Back to my other question, are there any TVs that switch between 1080i and 720p resolutions when their inputs are different? If not, why do we even have the 720p format in the first place?


I'm glad to be here, It's hard to find a place online with people knowledgable and willing to help someone; at least having to do with HDTVs. I guess I may have just been looking in the wrong place. I stumbled across this site in a Google search looking for pricing on the KD-34XBR960N.


----------



## PJeff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PJeff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So if I move the center speaker off of the top of the TV would that eliminate the problem?



I moved the center speaker and everything cleared up.


What should I do now about the center speaker? Is it possible to use the TV speakers as the center channel?


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *QuiescentWonder* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry, I'm still trying to make my way through all this technology as most of it was completely alien to me just a few months ago. I guess watching 720p programming was more important than the progressive scan DVDs. Which I failed to remember were not in 720p. The TV doesn't run any resolution other than 1080i (from what I've gathered so far) so I would be watching DVDs on an interlaced screen. I guess that if it isn't really noticable though it doesn't make any difference. It depends on who you talk to from what I've been able to figure out. Because I don't have much experience with HDTVs myself I couldn't tell if I would notice the difference or not.
> 
> 
> Back to my other question, are there any TVs that switch between 1080i and 720p resolutions when their inputs are different? If not, why do we even have the 720p format in the first place?
> 
> 
> I'm glad to be here, It's hard to find a place online with people knowledgable and willing to help someone; at least having to do with HDTVs. I guess I may have just been looking in the wrong place. I stumbled across this site in a Google search looking for pricing on the KD-34XBR960N.



I belive you'll find some good info here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...highlight=720p You can use the "Search this thread" and "Search this forum tools at the upper right to search for posts/threads relating to topics (e.g., 720p). Also, if you haven't alreay, check out the info at: http://reviews.cnet.com/4520-7608_7-1016109-4.html 


I went with a 960 a couple of monhs back ad have been very impressed with DVD performance.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PJeff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I moved the center speaker and everything cleared up.
> 
> 
> What should I do now about the center speaker? Is it possible to use the TV speakers as the center channel?



Depending on the size of your center speaker you may want to try one of theses:

http://www.racksandstands.com/prods/...6/0PSY0054.htm 


Shop around though, you can find them cheaper if you look.


The TV speakers don't work well as a center. The sound quality just doesn't hold up in my modest system. Also, I haven't tried to figure out how to output the center channel only through the TV.


----------



## PJeff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Depending on the size of your center speaker you may want to try one of theses:
> 
> 
> Shop around though, you can find them cheaper if you look.
> 
> 
> The TV speakers don't work well as a center. The sound quality just doesn't hold up in my modest system. Also, I haven't tried to figure out how to output the center channel only through the TV.



Would the speaker be far enough away to eliminate the magnetic interference?


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PJeff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Would the speaker be far enough away to eliminate the magnetic interference?



It might. If it is a shielded speaker a half inch or two maybe all it takes. Do you have a cutting board you can sit up there to test out?


----------



## Schmekel1992

I had a question earlier about DVD players that are "up-scan". The LG DVD player I've been using for about three weeks can change the resolution to "480p-1080i" that would include all of the inbetween resolutions. The Cinemotion turns off when the DVD player is set to any resolution higher than 480p. I just put in Saving Private Ryan and the picture quality was great I did not seen any artifacts or blurring (this was set to 480p and cinemotion). When I change the resolution to 1080i peoples faces have this soft look to them and I can see some types of "blurring" in peoples faces. I believe that the attempt to upscan to 1080i was not as successful and leaving the DVD player's resolution to 480p and having the TV set to cinemotion is the best option. I also have Sharpness as low as it will go and Clear Edge VM to Low. The picture is great, but 480p is not HD. I'm sure the future will hold some affordable HD-DVD's, till then I may just stick with the lower resolution and space my critical eye from seeing all of the blurring affects.


----------



## HonestAbe52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hywdx80* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Questions with my old rca direct tv receiver and it's bad images quality SD in 4:3 on my xbr960. If I upgrade to a newer one like the "DTV H10" and connect that to my tv instead of the old rca which only has s-video/composite/coax will i receive better SD in 4:3 on the newer direct tv receiver "DTV H10"?
> 
> 
> I heard some people claiming that using hdmi/component in SD doesn't look that great. If I hook either s-video/composite/coax/component etc... would the SD images in 4:3 look better or it is just a flaw with SD on a widescreen HD tv ?
> 
> 
> The reason I say this is because my OTA antenna picks up really good SD signals over the OTA HDTV in 16:9 but it looks pretty good and I'm try to get my direct tv images to look like that even though it is 100% digital.
> 
> 
> Sorry for being a newbie again!
> 
> 
> Rob



I had this problem out of the box on my XBR. The problem is mainly vivid mode is useless most of the time except in direct sunlight. Get the set professionally calibrated, DirecTV / Tivo is now watchable again on my XBR. Make sure the calibrator calibrates each input (DVD / DirecTV / antenna) seperately using the XBR mode memory, as well as fixing service menu / global options. If you are in the SF Bay Area, I recommmend Les Holt http://holtmods.com/isf.htm he has alot of experience with this type of television, otherwise find someone in your area that has done these TV's - its sooo worth it, even my wife says so!


----------



## AHammer16




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HonestAbe52* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had this problem out of the box on my XBR. The problem is mainly vivid mode is useless most of the time except in direct sunlight. Get the set professionally calibrated, DirecTV / Tivo is now watchable again on my XBR. Make sure the calibrator calibrates each input (DVD / DirecTV / antenna) seperately using the XBR mode memory, as well as fixing service menu / global options. If you are in the SF Bay Area, I recommmend Les Holt he has alot of experience with this type of television, otherwise find someone in your area that has done these TV's - its sooo worth it, even my wife says so!




How much did that calibration cost you?


----------



## e-d0uble

Hi folks,


Bear with me - I'm a systems engineer by trade, but I'm a big-time AV newbie.

I purchased the XBR960 set in late June of this year, and have been astounded with the picture quality from day one, it's fantastic. Recently, I read a review of the set that described a scenario that's giving me the willies. After reading this review, I realized that the set came out-of-the-box set to "vivid" mode, and I had left it that way for several months without modification. The review I read stated that leaving the set in this mode could damage it, or shorten its life. Most notably, the "vivid" mode has the picture setting cranked all the way up, which I've always heard is a terrible thing to do to a CRT. Several days ago, I borrowed a friend's AVIA disc and tuned the black and white levels. I had a very difficult time setting the picture correctly; I couldn't produce any "blooming" or distorion in the log patterns at all with this set. My questions are: is it truly a life-shortening/damaging thing to do to leave this set on "vivid" mode with the picture set all the way up? If it is indeed a bad thing to do, what settings do people recommend? I'm asking, because I found that after calibrating the set with a multitude of test patterns, I feel the picture is somewhat drab. What might a "higher than 31" but safe picture mode setting be for this set? Perhaps I've been spoiled by the "vivid" mode?


Thanks.


-E


----------



## sengsational

There are some programs, mostly on PBS, that waste a lot of screen real estate. I know it's a network thing, but until they get their "act" together, I wondered if I could improve the situation.


Basically the show is broadcast (digital) with a 16:9 ratio inside of a 4:3 box. But of course on TV's like ours, we have black bars on ALL 4 SIDES!











So the logical thing to do would be to zoom it, but the "Wide Mode" button just keeps saying "FULL". The signal arrives on the DVI connector, and so there's no function in the wide mode button. More specifically, the signal comes from a software player that is playing one of my OTA transport stream captures. I have my desktop set to 1152x648 (a PowerStrip resolution within a resolution), the software player is playing full screen. That works great for most things, but not these kinds of broadcasts.


My question is _what PowerStrip timings or other schemes have been employed to allow the "black bars on all sides" broadcasts to fill-up the screen?_ I figured that it might be possible to design a resolution with purposeful overscan to a very large extent. It's just that the TV tends to try an compensate, or just gives you nothing if you are outside of 'normal', so a lot of trial and error would be in order. If someone has already done it, that would be quite helpful.


--Dale--


----------



## GLX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *e-d0uble* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi folks,
> 
> 
> Bear with me - I'm a systems engineer by trade, but I'm a big-time AV newbie.
> 
> I purchased the XBR960 set in late June of this year, and have been astounded with the picture quality from day one, it's fantastic. Recently, I read a review of the set that described a scenario that's giving me the willies. After reading this review, I realized that the set came out-of-the-box set to "vivid" mode, and I had left it that way for several months without modification. The review I read stated that leaving the set in this mode could damage it, or shorten its life. Most notably, the "vivid" mode has the picture setting cranked all the way up, which I've always heard is a terrible thing to do to a CRT. Several days ago, I borrowed a friend's AVIA disc and tuned the black and white levels. I had a very difficult time setting the picture correctly; I couldn't produce any "blooming" or distorion in the log patterns at all with this set. My questions are: is it truly a life-shortening/damaging thing to do to leave this set on "vivid" mode with the picture set all the way up? If it is indeed a bad thing to do, what settings do people recommend? I'm asking, because I found that after calibrating the set with a multitude of test patterns, I feel the picture is somewhat drab. What might a "higher than 31" but safe picture mode setting be for this set? Perhaps I've been spoiled by the "vivid" mode?
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> -E



The general consensus for the best settings for the KD-34XBR960 are to set the the HDTV to _PRO_ Mode and the Color Axis to _Monitor_. The rest of the settings are set at around:


Contrast: 45

Brightness: 31 middle setting

Tint: middle setting

Color: 31

Hue: dead center 0

SHARPNESS to "MIN"

"Clear Edge VM" to OFF

Color temp: Neutral

Clear edge : Off


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *e-d0uble* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi folks,
> 
> 
> My questions are: is it truly a life-shortening/damaging thing to do to leave this set on "vivid" mode with the picture set all the way up? If it is indeed a bad thing to do, what settings do people recommend? I'm asking, because I found that after calibrating the set with a multitude of test patterns, I feel the picture is somewhat drab. What might a "higher than 31" but safe picture mode setting be for this set? Perhaps I've been spoiled by the "vivid" mode?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> -E



GLX posted the recommended starting points. You can have your set calibrated to a "correct" setting but ultimately it's your set and you got for your viewing pleasure. If you like the vivid mode than use the vivid mode.


As far as damage to the set, I don't think any tests have been done but with the brightness the the vivid mode puts out you can guess it would lead to a shorter tube life.


----------



## getthenoob




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GLX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The general consensus for the best settings for the KD-34XBR960 are to set the the HDTV to _PRO_ Mode and the Color Axis to _Monitor_. The rest of the settings are set at around:
> 
> 
> Contrast: 45
> 
> Brightness: 31 middle setting
> 
> Tint: middle setting
> 
> Color: 31
> 
> Hue: dead center 0
> 
> SHARPNESS to "MIN"
> 
> "Clear Edge VM" to OFF
> 
> Color temp: Neutral
> 
> Clear edge : Off



thanks, i just got the XBR960 today and when i hook it up im gonna use those settings


----------



## e-d0uble




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GLX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The general consensus for the best settings for the KD-34XBR960 are to set the the HDTV to _PRO_ Mode and the Color Axis to _Monitor_. The rest of the settings are set at around:
> 
> 
> Contrast: 45
> 
> Brightness: 31 middle setting
> 
> Tint: middle setting
> 
> Color: 31
> 
> Hue: dead center 0
> 
> SHARPNESS to "MIN"
> 
> "Clear Edge VM" to OFF
> 
> Color temp: Neutral
> 
> Clear edge : Off



Thanks for the response. That's almost exactly what I had it set to after reviewing "advanced AVIA".


----------



## getthenoob




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GLX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The general consensus for the best settings for the KD-34XBR960 are to set the the HDTV to _PRO_ Mode and the Color Axis to _Monitor_. The rest of the settings are set at around:
> 
> 
> Contrast: 45
> 
> Brightness: 31 middle setting
> 
> Tint: middle setting
> 
> Color: 31
> 
> Hue: dead center 0
> 
> SHARPNESS to "MIN"
> 
> "Clear Edge VM" to OFF
> 
> Color temp: Neutral
> 
> Clear edge : Off




i got a couple questions, what setting should i have Picture at?

what screen mode should i have the TV at? Full, Zoom, Progressive?

what setting should i have DRC palette and DRC mode at?


and i can't find Tint, Contrast, Sharpness, or Clear Edge settings on the menu


everything else i did


----------



## GLX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *getthenoob* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i got a couple questions, what setting should i have Picture at?
> 
> 
> what setting should i have DRC palette and DRC mode at?
> 
> 
> and i can't find Tint, Contrast, Sharpness, or Clear Edge settings on the menu
> 
> 
> everything else i did




Contrast is the same thing as Picture.


Tint is the same thing as HUE.


Clear Edge is the same thing as ClearEdge VM.


Sharpness is the same thing as Sharpness.










All these are found and are tweakable under the "VIDEO" option when you press the "MENU" button.


Next time lets try and keep our eyes open when trying to go through the TV menus.


















> Quote:
> what screen mode should i have the TV at? Full, Zoom, Progressive?



Full and Zoom are completely different options than Progressive.


Full and Zoom are options for Screen Mode. Progressive is an option for DRC Mode.


----------



## jkyi

Hi everyone,


I just picked up the 34xbr960 today at best buy. Unfortunately it has a manu date of 5/05 (checked back of tv). I hope this won't be a problem as i guess it has been sitting at bb for 7 months now. Dvds on my philips progressive scan player look awesome tho!!







.


Anyways, i'm an OTA HD signal noob here...and hope some1 can help me. i tried doing a search and read several posts but couldn't find an answer. I was under the assumption that i could just buy a $10 radio shack antenna and i would be able to get the ota signals. However, when i try to tune for digital channels or just autoprogram it no digital channels get found. I'm wondering if its my antenna/position from broadcasting towers, or if its my qam tuner.


I saw several pages ago that some1 had a technician come in to find that the qam tuner was not working and needed to be replaced. Is there any way i can check to see if my tuner is functioning correctly? Or do u think its my antenna? i've found out that my distance from the broadcast towers is 16miles, but i live downtown in a highrise.


Please help...i have this awesome tv but can't view any ota hd channels!

Thanks!


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *e-d0uble* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi folks,
> 
> 
> Bear with me - I'm a systems engineer by trade, but I'm a big-time AV newbie.
> 
> I purchased the XBR960 set in late June of this year, and have been astounded with the picture quality from day one, it's fantastic. Recently, I read a review of the set that described a scenario that's giving me the willies. After reading this review, I realized that the set came out-of-the-box set to "vivid" mode, and I had left it that way for several months without modification. The review I read stated that leaving the set in this mode could damage it, or shorten its life. Most notably, the "vivid" mode has the picture setting cranked all the way up, which I've always heard is a terrible thing to do to a CRT. Several days ago, I borrowed a friend's AVIA disc and tuned the black and white levels. I had a very difficult time setting the picture correctly; I couldn't produce any "blooming" or distorion in the log patterns at all with this set. My questions are: is it truly a life-shortening/damaging thing to do to leave this set on "vivid" mode with the picture set all the way up? If it is indeed a bad thing to do, what settings do people recommend? I'm asking, because I found that after calibrating the set with a multitude of test patterns, I feel the picture is somewhat drab. What might a "higher than 31" but safe picture mode setting be for this set? Perhaps I've been spoiled by the "vivid" mode?
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> -E



I also used "vivid" for a while, sharply decreasing the manufacturer's settings, but after reading so many posts I went into "Pro" and after making the proper adjustments had an even more beautiful picture.


Just know I've found that settings differ between HD, DVD, Digital Cable and VHS. All who have posted their settings are close, however, these are mine for each of those four inputs.


THE first number is for Digital Cable, the second for VHS, the third for DVD (used a THX optomizer) and the fourth for DVI.


Mode: Pro on all

Picture: 37, 33, 30, 33

Brightness: 22, 28, 31, 21

Color: 26, 27, 35, 34

Hue: All R-5

Sharpness: 28, 26, 33, 35

Color Temp: Neutral on all

Clear Edge: Medium, low, high, high

DRC Mode: Interlacd, Cinemotion, Cinemotion

Color Axix: Monitor on all

DRC Pallete: r55/c61, r73/c83, r87/c85


As everyone else has stated, the only settings you should settle into are the ones that you like best. As you have read, many find better picture quality with the clear edge off while I incorporate it for mine. It is all subjective.


Hope you can use the above as starting points. Please let us know what you came up with.


It would be great if we were able to compile stats on all the settings submitted to get a consensus of what the "average" setting is on this thread.


Take care,

Joe


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jkyi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways, i'm an OTA HD signal noob here...and hope some1 can help me. i tried doing a search and read several posts but couldn't find an answer. I was under the assumption that i could just buy a $10 radio shack antenna and i would be able to get the ota signals. However, when i try to tune for digital channels or just autoprogram it no digital channels get found. I'm wondering if its my antenna/position from broadcasting towers, or if its my qam tuner.



A couple of things to check:

Is the antenna plugged into the RF jack labeled UHF/VHF?

Do you have anything plugged into the RF jack labeled Cable?

You may be scanning for cable qam channels, trying hitting the ANT button on your remote and retry the autoprogram.


----------



## jkyi

Thanks for the reply LongRufus,


Yes the antenna is plugged into the rf jack and my comcast cable box is plugged into the cable jack.


I did push ANT on my remote (good tip







) but unfortunately got 29 analog channels and 0 digital channels










Does this mean that my qam tuner is functioning properly but i can't get the ota channels due to my antenna or location?


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jkyi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply LongRufus,
> 
> 
> Yes the antenna is plugged into the rf jack and my comcast cable box is plugged into the cable jack.
> 
> 
> I did push ANT on my remote (good tip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) but unfortunately got 29 analog channels and 0 digital channels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does this mean that my qam tuner is functioning properly but i can't get the ota channels due to my antenna or location?



I doubt it is the antenna itself since you get the analog channels. I have a cheap $10 GE antenna and get all my local OTA HD stations. Your best bet is to find your local area thread in the HDTV info and reception forum and ask for advice there. The reception forum is located here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=45 


You can test you QAM tuner by eliminating the Cable box. Remove the cable coming out of your wall from the back of your box and plug it directly into your 960's Cable input and run the autoprogam. It takes almost an hour for the 960 to run through all the channels. Most Comcast systems send the local HD channels in the clear. If your system does, you will find them after the autoprogram has finished. I get all of my Philly locals in the clear and they are listed in the 109.1 to 119.2 channel range. Good luck.


----------



## jkyi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LongRufus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> You can test you QAM tuner by eliminating the Cable box. Remove the cable coming out of your wall from the back of your box and plug it directly into your 960's Cable input and run the autoprogam. It takes almost an hour for the 960 to run through all the channels. Most Comcast systems send the local HD channels in the clear. If your system does, you will find them after the autoprogram has finished. I get all of my Philly locals in the clear and they are listed in the 109.1 to 119.2 channel range. Good luck.



Nice! its still autoprogramming, but it currently reads 318digital channels and 20 shown...thanks again! it works


----------



## rjbrock13

What is HI-SCAN?


----------



## f13dfx

I am trying to decide on a learning remote that would learn a function that hopefully the XBR960's remote does.


This function would enable a user to go directly to a particular video input without having to cycle through all the inputs. For example, I would like to go directly to video input #7 from say #3. Is this possible with the Sony remote?


TIA


----------



## Brad Smith

No, it is not possible with the Sony remote, though the IR codes exist to do that if you have a third-party programmable remote such as a Harmony.


----------



## rjbrock13

Will I be disappointed with my xbr960 playing fast paced xbox 360 games. you know the whole 720p 1080i thing


----------



## sengsational




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *f13dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am trying to decide on a learning remote that would learn a function that hopefully the XBR960's remote does.
> 
> 
> This function would enable a user to go directly to a particular video input without having to cycle through all the inputs. For example, I would like to go directly to video input #7 from say #3. Is this possible with the Sony remote?



You might already know this, but if you go into the TV menu and set an input to "SKIP", then that input will be skipped. So if you didn't have anything on 4, 5 and 6, and you set them to be skipped, it would be one button to get from 3 to 7. Not much help if you have 7 things connected, but if you have two or three, it helps.


--Dale--


----------



## rjbrock13

How do i get my channle lables back? cable card


----------



## f13dfx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Smith* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No, it is not possible with the Sony remote, though the IR codes exist to do that if you have a third-party programmable remote such as a Harmony.



Okay I have programmed my XBR960 via it's remote to skip the video inputs with nothing connected to them. This is what I'm left with:


Video 3: Bell ExpressVU 6000 w/R5000HD mod for recording HD (for monitoring only)

Video 5: PC via my ATI Radeon 9800XT component video adapter

Video 6: LinkPlayer2 via component video

Video 7: Bell ExpressVU 6100 via DVI>HDMI (for watching HDTV)

Cable Input: using XBR960's internal cable tuner


I'm looking at purchasing a UCR-100 or Harmony 659 Learning Remote. How would I program a macro command into the remote to turn on the TV and at the same time go to the proper video input for the function I want? Say for example, I turned off the TV while watching satellite TV on video input 7, how would I program the UCR-100 to turn on my LinkPlayer2, turn the TV on, and cycle through to the correct video input (6).


TIA


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rjbrock13* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What is HI-SCAN?



I think it's a name Sony came up with for its 1080i TVs. On the Sony web page its got the little TM (trade mark) next to it.


----------



## Ladd

Anyone have handy a Pronto .ccf file for the XBR960?


----------



## iamhives

F13DFX


Yes. I do this with an Harmony 680 (better key layout than 659 especially if you dave a DVR). Fantastic remote


----------



## lovealego

this one should be easy.


when viewing 4:3 material on this set, are the bars on the left and right grey? or black?


also when looking at size. the sony 36" 4:3 tv has a widescreen mode about the size of this tv.


what would be the reason to get this model over the 36" 4:3 set?


since all the tech stats seem the same.


----------



## Jon S

4:3 material in standard def has gray bars, 4:3 material in hi-def is black.


----------



## sengsational




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovealego* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> what would be the reason to get this model over the 36" 4:3 set?



You mean *besides* the extra one inch of width you get with the 16:9 format? What more do you need?







The 4:3 is so last century, man, get with it.


But you have a good point.... the 4:3 has 25% more glass. It's just that it will be 'dead glass' in the future. How distant? I think we'll have 4:3 material on for quite a while, so from a strictly logical standpoint, and if the pricing was the same (I have no clue about prices) I think the 4:3 would be an ok choice, but your TV wouldn't be very stylish.


--Dale--


----------



## TheFount

Hey guys. Got my XBR960 on Saturday and I love it, aside from one thing... there seems to be a vertical white line on the left side of any 4:3 content. It's not pure white, but it lightens up about a quarter inch of the left side of the picture. There was a more visible one before, but I got that to disappear by dropping the Sharpness below 10. Is this a defect or can it be fixed?


----------



## f13dfx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheFount* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey guys. Got my XBR960 on Saturday and I love it, aside from one thing... there seems to be a vertical white line on the left side of any 4:3 content. It's not pure white, but it lightens up about a quarter inch of the left side of the picture. There was a more visible one before, but I got that to disappear by dropping the Sharpness below 10. Is this a defect or can it be fixed?



Never had that when I got my XBR960.


----------



## hywdx80




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheFount* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey guys. Got my XBR960 on Saturday and I love it, aside from one thing... there seems to be a vertical white line on the left side of any 4:3 content. It's not pure white, but it lightens up about a quarter inch of the left side of the picture. There was a more visible one before, but I got that to disappear by dropping the Sharpness below 10. Is this a defect or can it be fixed?



I'm on my second set now and there is a line that you are talking about. You can try adjusting the SBRT in the service menu to fix the problem.


----------



## hywdx80

On Monday Night Football (ABC) I notice that the images ie (the sports bar w/ the score on the bottom) moves up and down very lightly and in an up and down motion. The whole screen does this but it is more noticeable on the sports ticker sitting close to the TV and staring at it.


The problem is hard to explain and happens every week. I am on my second 960 and this one has the same problem as the first. Does anyone else have this problem? Or is this something on ABC's end? This happens with my terk hd receiver and either coming from my HD receiver or directly threw the UHF coax port.


I'm wondering if there is anything thing in the service menu that can correct this problem?


----------



## Schmekel1992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Schmekel1992* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had a question earlier about DVD players that are "up-scan". The LG DVD player I've been using for about three weeks can change the resolution to "480p-1080i" that would include all of the inbetween resolutions. The Cinemotion turns off when the DVD player is set to any resolution higher than 480p. I just put in Saving Private Ryan and the picture quality was great I did not seen any artifacts or blurring (this was set to 480p and cinemotion). When I change the resolution to 1080i peoples faces have this soft look to them and I can see some types of "blurring" in peoples faces. I believe that the attempt to upscan to 1080i was not as successful and leaving the DVD player's resolution to 480p and having the TV set to cinemotion is the best option. I also have Sharpness as low as it will go and Clear Edge VM to Low. The picture is great, but 480p is not HD. I'm sure the future will hold some affordable HD-DVD's, till then I may just stick with the lower resolution and space my critical eye from seeing all of the blurring affects.



It's me again! I had one day left to return my LG DVD player and I did. I went to Fry's and bought a Denon 756s for $360. Man I was lucky! The picture quality through HDMI was ten times better. I was a sucker when I bought the LG, but I was able to rectify my mistake. However, the Denon DVD player (756 and 1920) share the same problem with the power supply system.

(see next post for link.)

I'm not sure what I will do about it, but till then I'm enjoying beautiful video quality.


----------



## Schmekel1992

I have to make another post before I can set a link


----------



## Schmekel1992

my last post before I can give a link. Sorry if nobody really cares about the Denon problem, but I figure there's one person who may find this useful.


----------



## Schmekel1992

 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4&page=4&pp=30


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hywdx80* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> On Monday Night Football (ABC) I notice that the images ie (the sports bar w/ the score on the bottom) moves up and down very lightly and in an up and down motion. The whole screen does this but it is more noticeable on the sports ticker sitting close to the TV and staring at it.
> 
> 
> The problem is hard to explain and happens every week. I am on my second 960 and this one has the same problem as the first. Does anyone else have this problem? Or is this something on ABC's end? This happens with my terk hd receiver and either coming from my HD receiver or directly threw the UHF coax port.
> 
> 
> I'm wondering if there is anything thing in the service menu that can correct this problem?



Is there instability on HD football broadcasts televised by FOX, CBS or ESPN? How about digital CNN, MSNBC, etc. and their stock tickers? If not, it doesn't seem (from a non-technical viewpoint) like a problem with either your set or HD equipment. We haven't noticed it on Monday Night Football but will check it out next week.


----------



## lovealego




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sengsational* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You mean *besides* the extra one inch of width you get with the 16:9 format? What more do you need?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 4:3 is so last century, man, get with it.
> 
> 
> But you have a good point.... the 4:3 has 25% more glass. It's just that it will be 'dead glass' in the future. How distant? I think we'll have 4:3 material on for quite a while, so from a strictly logical standpoint, and if the pricing was the same (I have no clue about prices) I think the 4:3 would be an ok choice, but your TV wouldn't be very stylish.
> 
> 
> --Dale--




easy dale,


I have a 96" DLP 16x9 projection system as my main theater. I am looking for something for the bedroom, where I tend to watch mostly old movies (criterion collection, disney, documentaries that I dont want to use the main theater for, etc)

I am just surprised that the sony widescreen is only an inch bigger and several hundred more. I wonderd if it had a much higher quality display or something. Apparently its pretty much the same.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lovealego* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> this one should be easy.
> 
> 
> when viewing 4:3 material on this set, are the bars on the left and right grey? or black?
> 
> 
> also when looking at size. the sony 36" 4:3 tv has a widescreen mode about the size of this tv.
> 
> 
> what would be the reason to get this model over the 36" 4:3 set?
> 
> 
> since all the tech stats seem the same.



Actually, it was with it's 40 inch 4x3 set that SONY stated the 16x9 was actually larger than a 34" widescreen. Also consider it is suggested one sit at least nine feet away from a 36" inch set when viewing non-HD sources in the 4x3 format, so you will actually see a smaller HD and DVD picture compared to a 960 which can be placed much closer to the viewer.


Good luck with whatever decision you make.


----------



## vox8940

I've looked everywhere, but can't find any info on what version HDMI the XBR960 has. V 1.00 or 1.01?


----------



## hywdx80




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there instability on HD football broadcasts televised by FOX, CBS or ESPN? How about digital CNN, MSNBC, etc. and their stock tickers? If not, it doesn't seem (from a non-technical viewpoint) like a problem with either your set or HD equipment. We haven't noticed it on Monday Night Football but will check it out next week.



Please look into it for me. It only happens on MNF on ABC. It does not happen on fox or cbs when they play their football games on Sunday. I dont have my direct tv suscription for HD, so I cant tell if it would happen on espn hd. As far as a non-hd signal on abc, it is perfect.


----------



## Trojanlaw

Have the XBR960 and love it but saw the Bravia in the store today and though it was great. Has anyone compared the PQ side by side?


----------



## The Mi8ty Boosh

I'm thinking of purchasing the 960 mainly to game on with the Xbox 360. The question I would like answered is :- If a signal is outputted at 720p (ie. from the Xbox 360) would the TV automatically upscale it to 1080i?...I'd kinda like the option to play in progressive at 60fps for some of the fast action games...but I was wondering if there is any choice in the matter when it comes to what the TV wants to output to it's screen...?...thanx....oh, I'm presuming as a CRT there are no lag issues with gaming?...Any insight...thanx again all...







...good forum and good info...


----------



## Justin Fletcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Mi8ty Boosh* /forum/post/0
> 
> If a signal is outputted at 720p (ie. from the Xbox 360) would the TV automatically upscale it to 1080i?



Yes.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Mi8ty Boosh* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> oh, I'm presuming as a CRT there are no lag issues with gaming?



I've seen none with Gamecube, Xbox, and PC. I imagine Xbox 360 should be no different.


----------



## The Mi8ty Boosh




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Justin Fletcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes.
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen none with Gamecube, Xbox, and PC. I imagine Xbox 360 should be no different.



Thanx for your reply.....that's the way I understood it worked, just wanted to make sure.....thanx again...


----------



## sengsational




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *f13dfx* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How would I program a macro command into the remote to turn on the TV and at the same time go to the proper video input for the function I want? Say for example, I turned off the TV while watching satellite TV on video input 7, how would I program the UCR-100 to turn on my LinkPlayer2, turn the TV on, and cycle through to the correct video input (6).



You could use a "trick". If your TV works like mine, if I enter a channel number, it always goes to the main antenna. So if you want to program a key to go to the PC screen, for example, send a random channel, then two hits on the tv/video button. The LinkPlayer would be a random channel, then three hits, etc.


--Dale--


----------



## PJeff




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PJeff* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just got my 34xbr960 a couple weeks ago, but I'm having a problem. When I watch a DVD or HDTV I'm getting a red/purple looking flare on the left edge of the screen. It is around 2"-3" in diameter to start, but shrinks down to almost nothing if I just let it go. Is this normal or should I call a service center?



As it turns out, the magnetic interference was coming from the TV speakers and not the surround speakers. I exchanged the set for a new one and haven't had the same problem. I must have just got a bum set.


----------



## jkyi

I just picked up my xbr last week from bb and am thinking about exchanging it...when its letterboxed theres curving on the sides and top...are these geometry problems inherent in this set, or did i just get a lemon? would i have to go into the service menu to fix it?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jkyi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just picked up my xbr last week from bb and am thinking about exchanging it...when its letterboxed theres curving on the sides and top...are these geometry problems inherent in this set, or did i just get a lemon? would i have to go into the service menu to fix it?



Yes, this is quite a common out-of-the-box problem with this set. Bowing and convergence problems in the top and bottom corners, and left/right edge non-linearity are common complaints. Strangely, it seems that almost all new owners of this fabulous set get what almost seems to be a lemon when it first is delivered. I have no idea why the factory doesn't do a better job of initial setup.


And yes, service menu adjustments exist to address this with reasonable degree of success. However the service menu path should occur only after a trained technician has had a chance to correct some things which require hands-on physical solutions.


So before spending any time at all, call Sony and ask for an in-house visit from a factory tech to give it the required tune-up and adjustments. I suspect you may have other problems he can deal with better than you can (at least in this initial phase of your ownership), such as convergence and other visual artifacts. It will be free to you, and some problems require magnets to be placed on the back of the picture tube which you can't do through the service menu.


Keep your fingers crossed that one visit from the factory tech is sufficient to correct all of your complaints, and then you can begin your own personal tweaks project. Hopefully this one visit from professional help is all that your set needs.


But if the factory tech does not satisfy you (and says "it's within factory spec", or "it's close enough") call Sony after he leaves and insist on a second opinion. Demand that they give you the names of several local authorized service centers in your area, and insist that this second visit also be free because their own factory tech did such an awful job and did not resolve all of the problems to your satisfaction.


Then call one of them and keep your fingers crossed that the local tech guy will be much more motivated and interested, and will actually spend the necessary time to get your set up to snuff. I know that's what happened with me.


Only after exhausting these steps and still failing success should you contact BB or Sony to discuss an exchange. I submit that your feelings about the set will change once you've had an opportunity to get it tuned by a professional or two, and have then had an opportunity to tweak it yourself through the service menu. From your description I suspect you'll think you've been given a new set at the end of this, whereas in fact it was simply a rotten job of Sony preparation at the factory which is really the problem here... not the set itself.


----------



## Spokker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So before spending any time at all, call Sony and ask for an in-house visit from a factory tech to give it the required tune-up and adjustments. I suspect you may have other problems he can deal with better than you can (at least in this initial phase of your ownership), such as convergence and other visual artifacts. It will be free to you, and some problems require magnets to be placed on the back of the picture tube which you can't do through the service menu.



I did this and the technician they sent absolutely blew me off. He said, "Well that's just how CRTs are." and left as if I caused him some great inconvienence. I decided to email Sony again and insist that they send someone more knowledgable in this type of problem.


----------



## jkyi




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, this is quite a common out-of-the-box problem with this set. Bowing and convergence problems in the top and bottom corners, and left/right edge non-linearity are common complaints. Strangely, it seems that almost all new owners of this fabulous set get what almost seems to be a lemon when it first is delivered. I have no idea why the factory doesn't do a better job of initial setup.



Thanks for your response...so it would be pointless for me exchange for another set in hopes of one w/ better geometry/convergance? that sux...i really don't want to deal w/ technicians like in spokker's case. it just seems absurd to me that all these sets have this problem.


I also picked up a 4 yr extended warranty from best buy (not too much more because of the 18mo no interest financing). do u think bb would do a better job as they also offer in home service? does any1 have experience on this?


i dunno, i may just go and exchange it tomorrow and hope i get a set w/ good geometry...


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jkyi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for your response...so it would be pointless for me exchange for another set in hopes of one w/ better geometry/convergance?



Well based on comments from lots and lots of XBR960 owners on this forum, almost everybody has a less-than-satisfying experience out of the box. But eventually, through a combination of inhouse service tech visit(s) plus adventures in tweaking through the service menu, the very same set eventually scales magnificent heights of gorgeousness (although there still might be very minor and relatively unimportant issues that you simply accept and get used to).


I've not actually heard of anyone who truly had a "defective" set that required exchange or replacement by Sony or the retailer. So yes, it really does point the finger of scorn at Sony for letting these babies out of the factory in what really is a disappointing initial state. But the good news is that it really is just a matter of tuning and tweaking (with magnets and service menu adjustments) to elevate it to where it should have been in the first place.



> Quote:
> i really don't want to deal w/ technicians like in spokker's case. it just seems absurd to me that all these sets have this problem.



Agreed. Apparently the factory techs sent out by Sony are from the same fraternity and all have the same "that's the way it is" attitude. And that's why you should persist in getting Sony to authorize a "second opinion" from a local authorized retail service center, who will definitely want your business (even though Sony is paying him for a warranty visit this time) and have the right attitude.



> Quote:
> I also picked up a 4 yr extended warranty from best buy (not too much more because of the 18mo no interest financing). do u think bb would do a better job as they also offer in home service? does any1 have experience on this?



These extended warranties only kick in after the manufacturer's 1-year warranty expires, so it's not going to do anything for you right now.


Sony will not even consider replacing/exchanging your box unless their reps (factory or retail) tell them there is something physically defective that cannot be field serviced. Otherwise, only BB's policy is your final recourse.


But I think you should just bite the bullet and deal with this early headache, and exhaust the Sony free warranty visits (both first and second opinions) before talking to BB about your problem.



> Quote:
> i dunno, i may just go and exchange it tomorrow and hope i get a set w/ good geometry...



There's that chance, but it also may be no better. So unless it's really serious I'd still try to get a technician (or two) into your house to see if it can be adjusted.


----------



## jkyi

Thanks for all your help DSperber....

I'm going to BB anyways to pricematch this week's special by just bringing in the receipt (12% coupon, 100$ gift card in mail)...my friend has a suburban







so it's not too hard to bring back this beast...hehe...i was just wondering if u think manufacturing dates have anything to do w/ this common problem...mine says 5/05, and was sitting in their store for 6mos...


I'll give sony a call today after work and make my decision...(i found ur post where u promote ur sony certified technician w/ his magnet work







, and i'm in downtown la so i'll get him to come out).


i wasn't aware that the bb warranty kicks in after the manufacturer's. i thought the manu warranty on this set was 2 yrs? i wonder if that means the 4 yr warranty kicks in after the manu. 2yrs (4yrs+2yrs manu) or if the 4 yr warranty is actually 2yrs because of the manufacturer's warranty. i'll have to look into that...2yrs for $200 doesn't seem worth it hehe. it's all good cuz i can just get a refund w/in my 30days.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jkyi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'll give sony a call today after work and make my decision...(i found ur post where u promote ur sony certified technician w/ his magnet work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , and i'm in downtown la so i'll get him to come out).



Andy is a very nice fellow. I dropped in to his shop a few weeks ago with a "critical emergency" (a D-VHS tape had gotten tangled inside my DT100U and I needed to have it removed), and he delayed his departure to an appointment until I could get there. Then he spent 20 minutes solving my problem and only charged me $20. Terrific guy... and competent.



> Quote:
> i wasn't aware that the bb warranty kicks in after the manufacturer's.



I'm quite sure that's what the extended warranty means. But check the paperwork.



> Quote:
> i thought the manu warranty on this set was 2 yrs? i wonder if that means the 4 yr warranty kicks in after the manu. 2yrs (4yrs+2yrs manu) or if the 4 yr warranty is actually 2yrs because of the manufacturer's warranty.



I didn't realize the Sony warranty was 2 years (full parts and labor? or just parts, or labor?). If that's true then I believe your extended warranty would take you out to the 6 year point. But check your paperwork.


----------



## njt

2 years in home parts and labor from Sony on this set. My understanding is the BB extended warranty ran concurrently (which is why I passed on the 3 yr.), but that may be a mistake... check the details on the warranty trifold for confirmation.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hywdx80* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Please look into it for me. It only happens on MNF on ABC. It does not happen on fox or cbs when they play their football games on Sunday. I dont have my direct tv suscription for HD, so I cant tell if it would happen on espn hd. As far as a non-hd signal on abc, it is perfect.



Hi Hy,


Checked out last night's Monday Night Football telecast on ABC-HD as asked and found no problems. Whenever the camera did shake, the ticker stayed in placed.


How was it for you? If it still happened, could the signal be weak from where you are receiving it?


- Joe


----------



## hywdx80




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Hy,
> 
> 
> Checked out last night's Monday Night Football telecast on ABC-HD as asked and found no problems. Whenever the camera did shake, the ticker stayed in placed.
> 
> 
> How was it for you? If it still happened, could the signal be weak from where you are receiving it?
> 
> 
> - Joe



Thanks for the update. I was watching it last night and it was still having the same problem. I also noticed that it even happens on other HD shows on ABC. It's wierd, it only happens on ABC and not any other channel.


----------



## snatta

I am considering the 34xbr960 as my first HDTV and have some questions. Besides just watching football, are there any big sports fans here that use this HDTV to view the MLB Extra Innings and NBA League Pass packages on Comcast digital SD channels? If so, how is the PQ? Also, how does hockey look on this set? I will be able to watch most of the Philadelphia Flyers home games on the Comcast Sportsnet HD channel, and I have read that there is PQ issues with hockey on the larger screen RPLCD and cheaper LCD and Plasma sets due to the bright white ice background and fast movement. Since this is a direct view crt, the HD picture should be perfect?


I have read that there seems to be a problem with sets that were made in May 2005, and that these sets are still in the stores now. Two questions: Is there a way for me and the store to tell from the outside of the box what the build date is? And, if there are still May units being sold almost 6 months after they were built what does that tell me? Are these sets not selling? If not, will they go on sale (like the big screens) before Xmas for less then CC current sale price (& maybe free stand)? I am hoping these May built sets aren't returns that are being sold as new if the store finds nothing wrong with them.


I will be keeping my current 32" Philips SDTV to view/listen to basic SD analog channels during the day no matter what type of HDTV I get, but I am hoping that the 34xbr960 will allow me to watch the digital channels (>100) and Comcast On Demand programs with PQ as good as my current SDTV. Is this possible, or will I still get a *much* better picture on my SDTV. If so, I might have to get a second DVR/HD Box from Comcast for the SDTV.


Finally, did most of you get a EW with this set? I believe the FW is 2 years for parts and labor. I have never got EW on any of my SDTVs, and they usually last until *you* choose to replace them. One of the reasons I am thinking about this HDTV vs. a RPLCD is to save money on bulb replacements and EW. Hopefully in a couple of years I will make this set my secondary set and get a Plasma as my primary HDTV.


Any thoughts and opinions would be appreciated and helpful in my decision process.


----------



## AHammer16

Hello again people. I got my 34xbr960 in nov of last year. I have had the tube replaced once so far because of "broken apeture grid" and is due to be repaired again for the same problem. All that aside it is a great unit, but i have a couple of questions for you people.

What should I look for in a dvd plaver to go with this unit? Any specific suggestions for a person who has low cash flow?


I am confused as to how the y pb pr input on the TV works and what info it recieves. I thought the screen size was encoded in to the format. For example when i play a dvd on my current dvd player it outputs in 4:3, so i have to expand the picture via the tv to get it to fill the screen.


Lastly I am looking for the info on how to access the service menu along with the listing of what codes do what to the television. I was refferred to these link before but the links no longer work.


Thank again for your assistance

Alex Hammer


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AHammer16* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For example when i play a dvd on my current dvd player it outputs in 4:3, so i have to expand the picture via the tv to get it to fill the screen.



Sounds like you need to get into the SETUP menu on your DVD player and tell it you have a 16:9 TV. If it's putting out 4:3 over component video output it has to still be configured the way it was last November when you still had your old 4:3 TV (I'm guessing), before you bought your XBR960.


DVD players should put out 16:9 over component. Definitely a setup option you need to change. You will NOT have to (or want to) stretch/zoom the output of the DVD player on a 16:9 set.


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AHammer16* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What should I look for in a dvd plaver to go with this unit? Any specific suggestions for a person who has low cash flow?



The Sony DVP-NS70H has worked out great for me. MSRP is $150 but CC has it on sale most weeks. I have none of the image shift issues that the plasma and PJ owners seem to be having.


----------



## hywdx80

I will be getting the DVP-NS70H for xmas. I hope it works good on my xbr960!


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lsfrankel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My 34XBR960 is about two months old and other than playing around with the choices in the onscreen menu a bit, I am thrilled with the TV. But I keep reading about people spending hundreds of dollars to change some settings in a service menu or by purchasing a DAVID (AVIA I believe). Is there some trick to enter any other menus or features that only certain technicians know about? Okay, what is it, please? And what exactly is meant by convergence being out of whack? What should I be looking for regarding 'convergence'? Thank you



Were you able to get into the service menu? How did your tweaking of the set go?


----------



## dlhunt0410

I returned my 34XBR960 to BB this week due to some geometry issues.


They only had a floor model remaining.


When I looked at it it was worse than the unit I was returning.










I used to be a quality control inspector at a TV plant in the mid 80s.


I tend to spot problems with TV's with ease.


Sadly I am out of the (34XBR960) club for now.


----------



## hdtvmoron

I have a simple question before purchasing an BXR960. I have gotten a great deal of conflicting advice about line protectors, surge protectors, certified adjustments, and the like. I'm a complete layman when it comes to audio-visual equipment; I just want to optimize the picture quality and life span of the BXR960 I plan to purchase. BB says that a line protector will greatly lengthen the life of the set, Sony says it will shorten the set's life, others say it will do neither. Some people have said that a Monster cable is virtually a necessity; others seem to think they're overpriced. Sony seems to discourage the use of a surge protector, but I've been told otherwise by other people. Many people recommend that I have a certified technician adjust the set for optimum performance, but since I move almost every year for work, I'm wondering whether it's worth it to shell out a few hundred dollars for an adjustment every time I move.


I won't have any other equipment hooked up to my XBR960 - I haven't even bought a DVD player yet. I just have Adelphia Cable - that's it. I would be very grateful if someone could suggest in the simplest possible terms (for this simple guy) what supplementary equipment, if any, I should purchase to optimize the life and performance of this set. THANK YOU!


----------



## dlhunt0410




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hdtvmoron* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a simple question before purchasing an BXR960. I have gotten a great deal of conflicting advice about line protectors, surge protectors, certified adjustments, and the like. I'm a complete layman when it comes to audio-visual equipment; I just want to optimize the picture quality and life span of the BXR960 I plan to purchase. BB says that a line protector will greatly lengthen the life of the set, Sony says it will shorten the set's life, others say it will do neither. Some people have said that a Monster cable is virtually a necessity; others seem to think they're overpriced. Sony seems to discourage the use of a surge protector, but I've been told otherwise by other people. Many people recommend that I have a certified technician adjust the set for optimum performance, but since I move almost every year for work, I'm wondering whether it's worth it to shell out a few hundred dollars for an adjustment every time I move.
> 
> 
> I won't have any other equipment hooked up to my XBR960 - I haven't even bought a DVD player yet. I just have Adelphia Cable - that's it. I would be very grateful if someone could suggest in the simplest possible terms (for this simple guy) what supplementary equipment, if any, I should purchase to optimize the life and performance of this set. THANK YOU!



I would recommend purchasing a surge protector that states on the packaging that it will guarantee the equipment against a lightning strike. (most do not)


If money is no object get a $1000 line conditioner. And get the ISF calibration.


If on the other hand you want to save some $ you can get a decent surge protector for less than $100 and skip the ISF cal.


I doubt you'll be disappointed in the picture quality when you watch a HDTV signal on the 34XBR960. (Unless you are a TV inspector)


----------



## hdtvmoron

Thanks for the advice, dlhunt0410. A Sony representative told me that the XBR960 has a surge protector built in to the set, and it should therefore be plugged directly into the wall. Was that just a load of crap?


If I want to spend around $100 on a line conditioner, do you have any advice about what I should look for? Is the Monster 850 the best choice in that price range?


Thanks.


----------



## bobhoppel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hdtvmoron* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the advice, dlhunt0410. A Sony representative told me that the XBR960 has a surge protector built in to the set, and it should therefore be plugged directly into the wall. Was that just a load of crap?
> 
> 
> If I want to spend around $100 on a line conditioner, do you have any advice about what I should look for? Is the Monster 850 the best choice in that price range?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Watch out for faulty advice on this board about surge protectors. This subject has been handled before on this board. One more time....


The 960 has a huge initial appetite for current when this set is first turned on because of the degaussing circuitry. Many surge protectors limit the amount of current during this initial turn on period. The result is a faulty degaussing process which can lead to a very un-pure picture in the worst case. So believe Sony when they say plug it directly into the wall!!--- I know because I learned the hard way. The only other alternative is to get a line conditioner or a UPC device that is rated at least at 1500 VA. so it can handle the 960's huge initial appetite for current. Hope this helps.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hywdx80* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the update. I was watching it last night and it was still having the same problem. I also noticed that it even happens on other HD shows on ABC. It's wierd, it only happens on ABC and not any other channel.



Hy,


Glad I could help out. It must be something with the ABC transmission for your area so don't get worried about the set. Gobble Gobble.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *snatta* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am considering the 34xbr960 as my first HDTV and have some questions. Besides just watching football, are there any big sports fans here that use this HDTV to view the MLB Extra Innings and NBA League Pass packages on Comcast digital SD channels? If so, how is the PQ? Also, how does hockey look on this set? I will be able to watch most of the Philadelphia Flyers home games on the Comcast Sportsnet HD channel, and I have read that there is PQ issues with hockey on the larger screen RPLCD and cheaper LCD and Plasma sets due to the bright white ice background and fast movement. Since this is a direct view crt, the HD picture should be perfect?
> 
> 
> I have read that there seems to be a problem with sets that were made in May 2005, and that these sets are still in the stores now. Two questions: Is there a way for me and the store to tell from the outside of the box what the build date is? And, if there are still May units being sold almost 6 months after they were built what does that tell me? Are these sets not selling? If not, will they go on sale (like the big screens) before Xmas for less then CC current sale price (& maybe free stand)? I am hoping these May built sets aren't returns that are being sold as new if the store finds nothing wrong with them.
> 
> 
> I will be keeping my current 32" Philips SDTV to view/listen to basic SD analog channels during the day no matter what type of HDTV I get, but I am hoping that the 34xbr960 will allow me to watch the digital channels (>100) and Comcast On Demand programs with PQ as good as my current SDTV. Is this possible, or will I still get a *much* better picture on my SDTV. If so, I might have to get a second DVR/HD Box from Comcast for the SDTV.
> 
> 
> Finally, did most of you get a EW with this set? I believe the FW is 2 years for parts and labor. I have never got EW on any of my SDTVs, and they usually last until *you* choose to replace them. One of the reasons I am thinking about this HDTV vs. a RPLCD is to save money on bulb replacements and EW. Hopefully in a couple of years I will make this set my secondary set and get a Plasma as my primary HDTV.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts and opinions would be appreciated and helpful in my decision process.



For us, SD pictures look as good as on a non-HD set, however, one gets so used to HD that it's sometimes hard to re-adapt to watching digital. We use the wide stretch mode fill the picuture screen. It's surprising how well VHS recordings look with upconversion. DVDs are great.


We didn't bother with an extended warranty since surveys show most major electronic items that break down do so early on (companies make windfall profits selling extended warranties since on the most part they are never in need of use).


Rear projection sets have come a long way but still have their drawbacks with viewing angles and black levels. The 960 still offers the best picture quality of any tube, plasma or LCD set. If 34" widescreen is what you're looking for, you can't go wrong with this model.


We do not know when our set was manufactured but we've had it for over three months with no problem at all.

While many have experienced curvature on letterbox material we haven't notice it all. The only curvature we find is very slight in the extreme corners when using the wide stretch mode for 4x3 material - it's really only noticable on news tickers, etc and we believe it probably is inherent with stretch modes in general.


The sport packages you mentioned are not available in HD in the NYC area, only digital. Ice Hockey really looks great in HD and a HD golf tournament makes one feel you are in the front of the gallery.


Please know that many national sporting events are still not broadcast in HD (i.e., ABC Saturday College Football, some NBA games on ESPN, Golf, etc.). With us, all home games for local teams (Yanks, Mets, Knicks, Rangers, Islanders and Devils) are broadcast in HD as well as most NFL games. HBO, Starz, Cinamax and Showtime have one channel of HD quality.


Hope this feedback helps.


----------



## dmk66




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *esote1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Would you mind sharing where you got this quote? I am planning to get one as well but I'm limited to stores on the west coast. I have to haul it up to Canada.



Sure. It was $1440.


Abt Electronics in Glenview, IL. They are the largest independent appliance/electronic retailer in the country. They also say they are Sony's largest independent customer.

I also believe they ship the TV free and there is no sales tax outside of the Chicago area.

Go to the live chat area and ask for their best price.


**************.com


----------



## snatta




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmk66* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sure. It was $1440.
> 
> 
> Abt Electronics in Glenview, IL. They are the largest independent appliance/electronic retailer in the country. They also say they are Sony's largest independent customer.
> 
> I also believe they ship the TV free and there is no sales tax outside of the Chicago area.
> 
> Go to the live chat area and ask for their best price.
> 
> 
> **************.com



dmk66,


Your price quote was for a new 34xbr960 from Abt? If so, can you send me a PM or Email on who to talk to at Abt to get that price. I was quoted a price including white glove delivery for two hundred eighteen more than your price from them today via email.


Thanks,


Snatta


Thanks Joseph for your feedback!


----------



## lsfrankel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Were you able to get into the service menu? How did your tweaking of the set go?



34XBR960


I think I'll cover all the bases here that I can think of. To get into the service menu, Turn Power off-press Display-press 5-press VOL+ then Power on.

To get out, Power off.

I didn't do anything there as I was overwhelmed. I bought the AVIA DVD and I'm having a difficult time seeing what I'm supposed to be seeing with that. I'm going to keep on plugging away with the AVIA but I just found a very impressive credentialed calibrator whose office is less than 1 mile from my house in Smyrna, Ga. He charges $250 for a CRT and will drop the trip charge of $25 since I'm so close. He's got quite a resume`.

But I'm not ready to go that route yet. I've had my TV now for two months. I bought the Extended Warranty but liquidated it three weeks later for a refund. My feeling is that if I'm going to have a problem, it will occur within the first 30 days or not. After all, everyone knows that they wouldn't be selling insurance plans if they weren't profitable for the insurer. I have had none of the issues mentioned here on this board. I ran the Black and White lettered credits at 2X and saw no smearing. Just some jittering. I have no excess lines of any sort. No convergence. No problems with the screen coating or film. Actually, I can't really tell that there is a film on there.

I use a surge protector. That whole line conditioner subject is too far out there for me. I'll wait until I get that Tech in here to inquire about that. I'm using a Cable Card from Charter for one RF in and I have a Motorola digital STB in my living room whose signals are sent to my other RF in antenna by using a Rabbit. This gives me the Guide and Video on Demand just by switching antennas. My SD picture on the Sony is identical in quality to the one I'm getting from the STB.

I think that covers it.


----------



## hywdx80

lsfrankel - you live near me. I live in acworth. Do you notice a problem on ABC HD with the images bouncing up / down ?


----------



## baller99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlhunt0410* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I returned my 34XBR960 to BB this week due to some geometry issues.
> 
> 
> They only had a floor model remaining.
> 
> 
> When I looked at it it was worse than the unit I was returning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used to be a quality control inspector at a TV plant in the mid 80s.
> 
> 
> I tend to spot problems with TV's with ease.
> 
> 
> Sadly I am out of the (34XBR960) club for now.



If the 960's picture quality doesn't satisfy you. No TV will.


----------



## hdtvmoron

_The 960 has a huge initial appetite for current when this set is first turned on because of the degaussing circuitry. Many surge protectors limit the amount of current during this initial turn on period. The result is a faulty degaussing process which can lead to a very un-pure picture in the worst case. So believe Sony when they say plug it directly into the wall!!--- I know because I learned the hard way. The only other alternative is to get a line conditioner or a UPC device that is rated at least at 1500 VA. so it can handle the 960's huge initial appetite for current. Hope this helps._


That makes perfect sense - thanks for the warning! I think a 1500 VA line conditioner costs a bit more than I'm looking to spend, so would you recommend just forgetting about a line conditioner, or should I buy an inexpensive line conditioner and start using it after the initial degaussing?


----------



## snatta

Do most of you guys have the Sony SU-34XBR3 stand? Can that stand accommodate a Comcast DVR/HD box on the hanging shelf that comes with it? Is there room for a stereo receiver or DVD player on the bottom part of the stand that is shaped like a V?. Does anyone have any suggestions for another stand that can handle the XBR960 weight and have at least 2 full shelf slots?


Happy Thanksgiving!


----------



## bobhoppel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hdtvmoron* /forum/post/0
> 
> _The 960 has a huge initial appetite for current when this set is first turned on because of the degaussing circuitry. Many surge protectors limit the amount of current during this initial turn on period. The result is a faulty degaussing process which can lead to a very un-pure picture in the worst case. So believe Sony when they say plug it directly into the wall!!--- I know because I learned the hard way. The only other alternative is to get a line conditioner or a UPC device that is rated at least at 1500 VA. so it can handle the 960's huge initial appetite for current. Hope this helps._
> 
> 
> That makes perfect sense - thanks for the warning! I think a 1500 VA line conditioner costs a bit more than I'm looking to spend, so would you recommend just forgetting about a line conditioner, or should I buy an inexpensive line conditioner and start using it after the initial degaussing?



If you can't get the right one , just plug it into the wall. The 960 already has protection built in.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *snatta* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do most of you guys have the Sony SU-34XBR3 stand? Can that stand accommodate a Comcast DVR/HD box on the hanging shelf that comes with it? Is there room for a stereo receiver or DVD player on the bottom part of the stand that is shaped like a V?. Does anyone have any suggestions for another stand that can handle the XBR960 weight and have at least 2 full shelf slots?
> 
> 
> Happy Thanksgiving!



Hi, we have the stand and took some measurements for you.


The shelf is 19 inches wide with two height options. We have it set on the first level which provides 9 inches in height. Assume positioning the shelf on the second level would give somewhere between 15 and 18 inches. We have our Scientific Atlantic HD box on this shelf.


You can also store equipment underneath it - with the shelf on the higher position there wass more than enough space for us to stack our VHS on top of our DVD player.


Hope this helps and gobble gobble!


Joe


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *snatta* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do most of you guys have the Sony SU-34XBR3 stand? Can that stand accommodate a Comcast DVR/HD box on the hanging shelf that comes with it? Is there room for a stereo receiver or DVD player on the bottom part of the stand that is shaped like a V?. Does anyone have any suggestions for another stand that can handle the XBR960 weight and have at least 2 full shelf slots?
> 
> 
> Happy Thanksgiving!



I love the stand I got from CC. I have the Comcast HD DVR and Sony 70H DVD player on the top shelf and my bottom shelf is empty. Plenty of room for 4 full sized components. I thought it was a bargain at $180, it's currently on sale for $45 less.

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Z-Lin...oductDetail.do


----------



## Ted W

Possibly stupid question: is this TV HDCP-compliant? I just found out my 27" Sony HDTV (4:3) will not play my DTheater tapes over HDMI (JVC 5U), so now I need something else.


----------



## lsfrankel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hywdx80* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> lsfrankel - you live near me. I live in acworth. Do you notice a problem on ABC HD with the images bouncing up / down ?



I haven't noticed anything wrong yet but I'm not quite sure what is meant by 'jumping up and down'. Are you on Charter? Have you hooked up rabbit ears to the other RF in to see if it happens OTA?


----------



## hywdx80




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *liquidneba* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My original TV, 3 video processing boards have been replaced to no effect.
> 
> 
> 
> Okay to help anyone interested in checking if their TV has this defect that mine and Brad's has, read on... If you want to live in ignorant bliss... skip!
> 
> 
> As I've written before, this phenomenon happens on all inputs, I'm going to refer to my trustworthy DVD: STARS WARS EPISODE 5, The Empire Strikes Back
> 
> 
> EXAMPLE 1:
> 
> Jump to chapter 27 and ff to (58:10 - 58:17). This is where Leia is in the cockpit of the millenium falcon getting scared by the Mynock. I've uploaded a file where I paintshopped green lines around the lights that cause a smear on my TV. The smearing occurs when the camera pans when she stands up to investigate the noise and when she recoils.
> 
> 
> EXAMPLE 2:
> 
> Jump to chapter 30 and FF to (1:07:27 - 1:07:31) This is where the Millenium Falcon races across the screen to attack the Star Destroyer Avenger. I've uploaded a file where I outlined area where the smearing occurs, right after the falcon quits its "afterburner".
> 
> 
> EXAMPLE 3:
> 
> Same chapter, FF to (1:08:06 - 1:08:09) This is where Captain Needa and another officer on the bridge of the Avenger are talking to each other, and Capt. Needa turns away at the end of the scene. The smearing occurs as Needa turns away. I've also uploaded a file showing where the smearing occurs in relation to his head as it moves out of the shot.
> 
> 
> Since I can't upload a fourth picture, I'll finish my post in another post!



I have the same problem too !


----------



## hywdx80




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lsfrankel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I haven't noticed anything wrong yet but I'm not quite sure what is meant by 'jumping up and down'. Are you on Charter? Have you hooked up rabbit ears to the other RF in to see if it happens OTA?



Im with Direct tv. I dont have any HD packages with direct tv, but only a terk indoor HDTV antenna hooked threw a direct tv hd box or also I have it hooked up straight to the UHF port on the tv. When you watch something in HD on ABC look at the ABC logo on the bottom right of the screen. I notice it bounces up and down. The whole screen does this but it is easier to tell on an image that is suppose to stay put, (logo, monday night football ticker, etc...)


----------



## Super Freak

Hi guiys. I am new here, so I apologize if this has already been discussed.


But, I just bought the Sony 34" XBR960 a few weeks ago, and today I noticed there are 3 faint horizontal lines that run across my screen.


You have to look kinda hard to notice them, but they are there. You can notice them more when there a white background.


Somebody on another board told me to come here...that you guys would know.


The lines are very thin, so you have to look close to see them. They show up more (more noticable) on a white background.


Someone on another board said something about aperature grille or lines. Hmmm.


I googled it, and it said there are 2 lines or something, but I see 3 on my TV.


One line is about 5 inches from the top of the screen. And one is about 5 inches from the bottom of the screen. And theres one in between...but slightly closer to the bottom line than the top.


Can you guys shed some light on this for me please?


Thanks!


----------



## lewis

Those lines are normal on Sony trinitron tubes


----------



## Spokker

Has anybody ever actually had anyone come out to their home and fix convergence issues on their XBR960? The only thing I read in this thread is people complaining about convergence issues and getting blown off by Sony tech support.


Can anyone recommend a tech, Sony authorized or ISF, that will fix convergence issues in Southern California? I'm sick of getting the run around.


----------



## Super Freak




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lewis* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Those lines are normal on Sony trinitron tubes



3 lines though? Everything I've read online says there are 2 dampening wired to support the aperture grille.


For those who have the XBR960, do you see 3 horizontal lines too? Thanks...


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Super Freak* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi guiys. I am new here, so I apologize if this has already been discussed.
> 
> 
> But, I just bought the Sony 34" XBR960 a few weeks ago, and today I noticed there are 3 faint horizontal lines that run across my screen.



These are thin wires behind the glass screen that hold the aperture grill up against it.


These wires are part of every Sony Trinitron tube... HDTV, computer monitors, etc.


If you sit back at normal viewing distance you should not be able to see them, especially with normal programming content displayed on the screen and moving around constantly. With darker content (e.g. the grass on a football field) you will simply not be able to see these wires.


The only way they are visible is on white or very light stationary content or background, which is essentially impossible for regular programming content.


----------



## Super Freak

But are there supposed to be 3 lines? Places I've read say there are 2 wired to hold the aperture grille.


Thanks


----------



## baller99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Super Freak* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> But are there supposed to be 3 lines? Places I've read say there are 2 wired to hold the aperture grille.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Perhaps with the large size of the screen, 3 are needed instead of the two. I have had countless trinitron monitors and televisions in the past, and all sony's have this. You can usually only see it on a white background like you said.


----------



## germ79

Hello to all! My wife and I are finally going to get a new TV and have been looking at everything from rear-projection to plasmas. While I was at CC today, I caught a glimpse of the xbr960 and was blown away! I couldn't believe how beautiful the picture was!


Of course, like all guys, I have been wanting a BIG screen TV, but if we get the 960, we can rearrange our TV room so that the TV would be about 8 ft or so away from the viewers on average. That seems about right for a 34" screen, don't you think?


Ok, on to my question. After doing some research and hearing some great things about this tv, I'm really considering picking one up. I was wondering though, since this tv has been out for over 1 year, is it due to be replaced soon? Is there any reason I would want to wait to see what comes out next? Is there any info on what/when the replacement is coming? I'd LOVE to go buy one tomorrow, but I'm afraid I'll get it and then after the New Year, it will be replaced!


What do you all think? Please give me any advice you can!


Thanks,

Jeremy


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *germ79* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was wondering though, since this tv has been out for over 1 year, is it due to be replaced soon? Is there any reason I would want to wait to see what comes out next? Is there any info on what/when the replacement is coming? I'd LOVE to go buy one tomorrow, but I'm afraid I'll get it and then after the New Year, it will be replaced!



There's been no mention or rumor about a replacement for this set, aside from the "N" version (which is already available) that purportedly is the same set with a slightly different anti-reflective coating on the glass. Whatever the actual difference, it appears to be relatively insignificant and has no real effect on the internals or general performance of the set.


Since CRT's are in lesser demand as time goes on (because of screen size limitations, weight, general large flat analog tube factors such as convergence and magnetic field influences, etc.) it's unclear whether the XBR960 is the last model we'll see or whether Sony will someday have something new and even more improved in this same screen size, or possibly larger. Simply no information here.


As far as getting one for yourself and your living room viewing distance estimate of 8', I will say that this is perhaps getting into the "not quite close enough" range. Most of us current owners who glow about the magic of this set's picture (once adjusted and tweaked properly, by a Sony factory tech and/or private local authorized tech and/or yourself and/or ISF tech) seem to agree on a 5'-7' viewing distance as ideal. While this certainly is a somewhat more preferable viewing distance, remember that this is actually a fairly small screen... especially when SD 4:3 images are displayed inside of its 34" diagonal presentation.


Not that it's impossible or unpleasant to watch from 8'. It's just that the "WOW!" effect (you are there, watching the real world through an open window frame with no glass in it) reduces as you move back further. Your eye's field of view continues to gather in more and more distractions around the picture as you move back, and the actual picture image seems to get smaller and smaller, and 8' may be just at the critical limit. Or maybe you'll be fine with it. Or maybe you can pull your chairs/sofa just a bit closer.


I would suggest you go back to the store and put a chair down in front of the set at a distance where you think you'd be sitting. Then try to get a feel for whether you are happy or not. If you can also sample 4:3 SD that would be helpful. You may have to ignore somewhat imperfect setup issues with less-than-glorious picture, just to get a feel for the size of the image and how you react.


If you're looking for a wonderful can't-be-better-picture HDTV viewing experience, with truly astonishing picture quality, you've found it. But it's really a small set by today's flat-screen and home theater standards, intended for a closer and more intimate viewing environment. As such, some compromises may be required in order to enjoy it.


I, for one, prefer CRT picture characteristics over any fixed-pixel display device... be it in my HDTV or in my computer monitors (17", 19", 21"). I'm a happy Sony Trinitron owner, exclusively, all around my house. And I usually watch my XBR960 (it's in a corner of my bedroom) from around 5' away (listening to DD5.1 -> Dolby Headphone through Stax headphones) without complaint. It's my own small theater, when I've actually sat down to "watch TV" seriously. However I also commonly "watch TV" (just not that seriously) while in bed, or when working on my computer, both of which are at a distance of around 13' from the XBR960, and given those situations it is also perfectly acceptable. Just not the same as from 5'.


----------



## Ted W

I was under the impression that Sony, like everybody else, is done with CRT. The market wants skinny TVs and so it shall have skinny TVs. This is probably the largest and last of the HD direct-view CRTs. Next stop, the dustbin of CE history.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *germ79* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What do you all think? Please give me any advice you can!



I've had my XBR960 for a couple of months now and you can mark my vote as saying that the reply to your question by "DSperber" is the probably the most concise, clear and accurate answer you are ever going to read on the subject.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There's been no mention or rumor about a replacement for this set, aside from the "N" version (which is already available) that purportedly is the same set with a slightly different anti-reflective coating on the glass. Whatever the actual difference, it appears to be relatively insignificant and has no real effect on the internals or general performance of the set.
> 
> 
> Since CRT's are in lesser demand as time goes on (because of screen size limitations, weight, general large flat analog tube factors such as convergence and magnetic field influences, etc.) it's unclear whether the XBR960 is the last model we'll see or whether Sony will someday have something new and even more improved in this same screen size, or possibly larger. Simply no information here.
> 
> 
> As far as getting one for yourself and your living room viewing distance estimate of 8', I will say that this is perhaps getting into the "not quite close enough" range. Most of us current owners who glow about the magic of this set's picture (once adjusted and tweaked properly, by a Sony factory tech and/or private local authorized tech and/or yourself and/or ISF tech) seem to agree on a 5'-7' viewing distance as ideal. While this certainly is a somewhat more preferable viewing distance, remember that this is actually a fairly small screen... especially when SD 4:3 images are displayed inside of its 34" diagonal presentation.
> 
> 
> Not that it's impossible or unpleasant to watch from 8'. It's just that the "WOW!" effect (you are there, watching the real world through an open window frame with no glass in it) reduces as you move back further. Your eye's field of view continues to gather in more and more distractions around the picture as you move back, and the actual picture image seems to get smaller and smaller, and 8' may be just at the critical limit. Or maybe you'll be fine with it. Or maybe you can pull your chairs/sofa just a bit closer.
> 
> 
> I would suggest you go back to the store and put a chair down in front of the set at a distance where you think you'd be sitting. Then try to get a feel for whether you are happy or not. If you can also sample 4:3 SD that would be helpful. You may have to ignore somewhat imperfect setup issues with less-than-glorious picture, just to get a feel for the size of the image and how you react.
> 
> 
> If you're looking for a wonderful can't-be-better-picture HDTV viewing experience, with truly astonishing picture quality, you've found it. But it's really a small set by today's flat-screen and home theater standards, intended for a closer and more intimate viewing environment. As such, some compromises may be required in order to enjoy it.
> 
> 
> I, for one, prefer CRT picture characteristics over any fixed-pixel display device... be it in my HDTV or in my computer monitors (17", 19", 21"). I'm a happy Sony Trinitron owner, exclusively, all around my house. And I usually watch my XBR960 (it's in a corner of my bedroom) from around 5' away (listening to DD5.1 -> Dolby Headphone through Stax headphones) without complaint. It's my own small theater, when I've actually sat down to "watch TV" seriously. However I also commonly "watch TV" (just not that seriously) while in bed, or when working on my computer, both of which are at a distance of around 13' from the XBR960, and given those situations it is also perfectly acceptable. Just not the same as from 5'.


----------



## njt

I have a dumb question about people measuring distance. Are you taking the measurement of the set screen to your eyes???


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spokker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can anyone recommend a tech, Sony authorized or ISF, that will fix convergence issues in Southern California? I'm sick of getting the run around.



Can't recommend one in the area, but you can run a search here:
http://www.imagingscience.com/isf-trained.cfm


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a dumb question about people measuring distance. Are you taking the measurement of the set screen to your eyes???



Well, it's sort of approximate, but yes the "viewing distance" would be measured from the screen to your eyes.


Here's a good tool for calculating either (a) recommended optimal viewing distance from a screen based on screen size, or (b) recommended screen size based on viewing distance: Viewing distance / screen size calculation tool Note that this suggests an even closer viewing position of 4'-5' for a 34" 16:9 set.


Here's another reference: Crutchfield size/distance chart 



Gary Merson (of "Perfect Vision") suggests the following rule of thumb:


"You must measure the actual screen height of the HDTV in inches (active screen area within the bezel, top to bottom). If you don't have a ruler handy, simply divide the diagonal measurement in half to get an approximate screen height for 16:9 aspect ratio HDTVs. Next, multiply the height by 3.2 to determine optimal viewing distance for 1080i content, or multiply by 4.8 to get the optimal distance for 720p content.


"With my 720p Samsung 43" diagonal HLN4365W, the screen height is roughly 21 inches, which when multiplied by 4.8 yields 100.8 inches, or 8.4 feet. I typically view the set from 8-12 ft in the family room, depending on the seat. Assuming my average viewing distance is 10ft, Merson says my screen is a bit too small for my eyes to discern the maximum resolution from the TV screen. Using quick math, 10ft is 120 inches, and dividing by 4.8, that would require a 25 inch vertical height, or approximately a 50 inch diagonal HDTV for optimal perception of the 720p screen resolution from 10ft. I still find the experience quite satisfying overall, and recall I have the constraint of having the TV fit inside a wife-specified corner entertainment unit, and the 43" diagonal DLP is about as large as I can fit at the moment."



Ergo: Video resolution is established by the total available pixels inside a display. That number is calculated by multiplying the vertical lines times the horizontals. Hence there are just over 350,000 pixels on your 4:3 screen, and there will be almost 2,000,000 on a 16:9 HDTV screen displaying 1080i content. Proper viewing distance for 4:3 (and SD resolution of 525 horizontal lines) would be around 7 screen heights, but this would occupy only around 10o of our horizontal field-of-view at that distance.


At HDTV resolution (1080i) in 16:9 aspect ratio how far back should we sit? The answer is 3 screen heights (3.2 according to Gary). And at a viewing distance of 3 screen heights the screen fills fully 30o of our horizontal field-of-view. For 720p viewing, Gary multiplies screen height by 4.8.



One more interesting reference source on angles of view: Angles of view, viewing distance, resolution, etc.


----------



## njt

The reason I asked for clarification was the low end of your (and others agreed upon) optimal range. 5' seemed awfully close (considering 3 of them are from the tip of my toes to my eyes . . . even in an upright seated position). Throw a bit of recline into the equation and I can get between 50-52" of distance to the tip of the footrest.


For fun, I decided to move my chair up, to yield 5' viewing distance (from screen to eyeball) for the first half of the Knicks game. While the picture was still enjoyable it felt a little cramped to be sitting with roughly only 2' of clearance between the front of my knees and the face of the set.


Viewing distance has been on my mind as of late, bc I am considering "spinning" the living room layout which would shorten the TV to Recliner distance. I had always calculated viewining distance as eyeball to glass, and wanted to confirm that's correct.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spokker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anybody ever actually had anyone come out to their home and fix convergence issues on their XBR960? The only thing I read in this thread is people complaining about convergence issues and getting blown off by Sony tech support.
> 
> 
> Can anyone recommend a tech, Sony authorized or ISF, that will fix convergence issues in Southern California? I'm sick of getting the run around.



Well "Southern California" is a pretty big place, but if you're in the West LA area I would recommend asking for Andy at AVS Audio Video Shoppe in Culver City. Phone number 310-306-4600.


He was the "local authorized Sony service" guy I called in after the Sony factory tech had come out first to adjust my brand new XBR960 and arbitrarily decided to leave when it was "close enough", or "within factory spec"... according to him. I was quite dissatisfied, called Sony to insist on a second opinion, and that's when I stumbled into AVS from the short list of nearby authorized service places Sony gave me to choose from.


Andy came out, and was quite enthused and exhilarated by my "quest for perfection" (or at least some significant improvement over the way the Sony factory tech had left things when he departed in a huff). He spent quite a bit of time working on my convergence problems before running out of magnets. He then promised to come back the following week with another magnet supply, which he did. And after spending yet another hour on his second visit (completing the magnet work and then fine-tuning and adjusting things even more using the service menu) we finally achieved what I've been watching ever since. Of course I have done some additional tuning and tweaking since his second visit, but that's to be expected and does not reflect on his abilities... only on my obsession.


I gave him a substantial tip (i.e. $$$) for his dedication and performance.


And I recommend him highly. You should try to get Sony to pay for his service call, but he's certainly well qualified and highly capable of dealing with convergence and other geometry problems on the XBR960.


However he is NOT an ISF guy, so don't expect that.


----------



## baller99

Are you guys crazy? 5 feet away from a 34 inch television??


I see poor eyesight and radiation poisoning in your future.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *baller99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are you guys crazy? 5 feet away from a 34 inch television??
> 
> 
> I see poor eyesight and radiation poisoning in your future.




6-8 feet.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *baller99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are you guys crazy? 5 feet away from a 34 inch television??



I'm currently sitting about 16" away from my 19" Sony Trinitron (aka IBM P96) computer monitor set at 1152x864 resolution. Seems perfectly ok to me. It's screen has a height of about 10.5".


If I had a strong enough table nearby and the room arrangement allowed it, I might place my 34XBR960 nearby as a permanent second monitor for my PC. But its screen size would demand that I place it 4'-5' away from where I'm sitting in order to get the balance between proper 30o field-of-view (so as not to have to turn my head left or right if it were too close) and having it so far away that it looks too small to be really satisfying (i.e. so that I can appreciate its 1920x1080 resolution capability).


As it is, with the XBR960 in the corner of my bedroom, I normally sit about 5' away and do not feel in any way like this is too close. It's just right for the size of the screen, which remember probably has a height that is essentially that of a 27" 4:3 set, namely a bit less than 17". In contrast, the screen of a 35" 4:3 set has a height of around 22". But to appreciate the HDTV 16:9 resolutions you need to sit much closer than you would for a SD 27" or 35" set.


----------



## snatta

I stopped at the 3 stores in my area that have the 34xbr960 on display. At Circuit City not 1 salesperson came over to help me during the 15 minutes I was there. They were all in the big screen area. This was actually a good thing though, because I turned off the sound on all the other TVs and was able to hear how loud the 34xbr960 can be. With the volume at 24 it sounded pretty good to me during a song from Live 8 featuring U2. But, both the 4:3 and 16:9 sets showed the exact screen area footage, no extra on the sides for the 16:9.


At Best Buy someone came over to me after a few minutes, but he quickly recommended to me LCD and Plasma units that would be in the same range as the 34xbr960. I asked him about what the 34xbr960 was currently showing, and he said it was a promo loop for HDTV, but it wasn't even connected with the right cables so don't judge the picture as being HD quality. This was the same loop that CC had running too. How can you judge PQ at these stores when they don't even have an HD source connected to these units? Both of these stores had no sale price on this model, and no discounts other than $100 from Comcast when I subscribe to their HD service (I already have their HD DVR box).


I went to Boscov's to compare the 34xbr960 to the 34xs955. They were the only store that had both models. I couldn't understand why CC & BB don't have the 34xs955 in the store, or even online. Boscov's had DVD movies running on both sets, as they were connected to HTIB, but didn't have them next to each other. I couldn't notice a difference in PQ. Neither of these 2 sets were on sale either, but they did offer a 5% to 50% off coupon & no payment/interest for 12 months. You don't find out how much the coupon is for until the salesperson enters the price of the item you are buying at the register and you are ready to pay.


My questions after visiting these stores are how come these sets aren't being displayed properly so people can see the great HD PQ they are buying? And, if these direct view crt HD sets aren't in demand, how come they aren't on sale? I am a cheap dogg, so I am trying to get the best deal I can. Crutchfield has a 18 month no payments/no interest deal with free in house delivery, but they told me they don't price match and their online price is what they sell the set for. They do have a sale price on the 34xs955 though, and I am thinking about that set or waiting them out to see if they will put the 34xbr960 on sale before Xmas. I have got 2 different quotes from ABT below their listed price, but they don't offer any no payment/no interest plan. Does anyone remember if this set went on sale last year before Xmas? I am looking for about $300 off the current list price.


----------



## kny3twalker

Cruthfield should price match any authorized dealer

if ABT is not offering no interest no payments I doubt they are an authorized dealer which furthermore means no Sony warranty

the warranty would be from ABT


and most other CRTs are discounted, you are just looking at the best


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *snatta* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I turned off the sound on all the other TVs and was able to hear how loud the 34xbr960 can be. With the volume at 24 it sounded pretty good to me during a song from Live 8 featuring U2.



My own personal feeling about the amp/speakers on the XBR960 is that they're really only "adequate". Not bad, but not great either.


For example, the built-in speakers (including sub-woofer) on my previous Sampo 34WHD5 were really very good. I could accept listening through the TV speakers without complaining. In contrast, I personally find that the limited range of the XBR960 sound system (it does not contain a sub-woofer) to be unacceptable.


Consequently I've "replaced" the built-in sound with a spare Altec-Lansing 621 speaker system (from one of my computers) that I had sitting around after replacing it earlier this year with an Altec-Lansing 641 system that I bought on eBay (note that neither of these fabulous sounding computer speaker systems are made or sold by Altec-Lansing any longer, but then that's just me... the KING of "they don't make it any more").


So I've turned the XBR960 speakers "off" and use the external Altec-Lansing 621 system instead (if I don't want to put on my Dolby Digital headphones for serious listening in my bedroom where a true 5.1 speaker system is unacceptable). Really a gigantic difference, especially with the external speakers fed from a digital source mixed down to 2-channel analog and passed through a 14-band DBX 14/10 EQ for tone control before being fed to the wonderful sounding Altec-Lansing 621 speaker system. Really.


Anyway, I wouldn't cite the built-in sound system on the XBR960 as one of its strong selling points. If you're planning on using the OTA NTSC/ATSC tuner in the set for OTA watching, remember that there's both full Dolby Digital as well as L/R-analog AUDIO OUTPUT capability available on the back, so you aren't obligated to use the set's built-in speakers if you don't want to. You can feed the audio from the tuner to whatever analog or digital external sound system you care to.


----------



## hywdx80

The speakers on the xbr960 imo rock. When I'm watching movies / dvds i some times can hear bullets coming from my rear. Obviously im no hard core sound expert and my previous tv had POS speakers. So this is a big improvment for me. I was originally planning to get a Htib, but I realise the stock speakers on the tv are already good enough for me. Plus I use this tv in my bed room so htib may be over kill. The xbr 955 would probably be my purchase if I were to do it over again. The twin view, and the drc function are pretty much pointless with direct tv outputting my SD at 1080i.


All in all if you want the BEST picture quality (compared to plasma) for a cheaper price go with the xbr 955/960. The only down side of this is there is ghosting / trailing with light images (lights) on a dark background. Also at 200lbs it is a really ***** to move and hooking it up to a computer source looks like ****.


----------



## germ79

I think we're going to go ahead and get the xbr960. I guess it is being discontinued and has been replaced by the xbr960n, but the only difference is some kind of dust protector on the screen. Do I need to buy that one instead?


Thanks for all your help!


Jeremy


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> For example, the built-in speakers (including sub-woofer) on my previous Sampo 34WHD5 were really very good. I could accept listening through the TV speakers without complaining. In contrast, I personally find that the limited range of the XBR960 sound system (it does not contain a sub-woofer) to be unacceptable.



according to Sony it does have a subwoofer
http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTE...me=specs&var2= 

same the XS955 models



Audio:

Trusurround by SRS

7.5W x 2 + 15W Subwoofer

Steady Sound® Automatic Volume Control With BBE® Audio Effect

Auto SAP

Audio Output (Variable/Fixed)

MTS Stereo

Speaker On/Off

PCM

AC-3




> Quote:
> Also at 200lbs it is a really ***** to move and hooking it up to a computer source looks like ****.



I will have to disagree with your PC comment

have you tried any video at 1080i?

DVDs, and any video content look incredible IMO on my XS955


furthermore the Sony only displays progressively 480

which PC monitors are meant to be progressive

so if you want readable text you will need to use a progressive resolution

(720p gets converted to 1080i so thats not acceptable either)




> Quote:
> I think we're going to go ahead and get the xbr960. I guess it is being discontinued and has been replaced by the xbr960n, but the only difference is some kind of dust protector on the screen. Do I need to buy that one instead?



only if there is no price difference

would I opt for the N model

and it is widely available now as well


----------



## YangUW

Hi, I tried to search this thread to see if this question had been asked.


I am noticing white vertical lines on the extreme left and right sides of my month old 34xbr960. Do you guys know what this is from and how to fix it? Thanks so much!


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kny3twalker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> according to Sony it does have a subwoofer
> 
> 
> 7.5W x 2 + 15W Subwoofer



Well I stand corrected.


But have you actually seen that so-called "subwoofer"? I noticed it when the back was removed so that my technician could do his magnet thing on the back of my picture tube. He had to disconnect and remove it temporarily it in order to do his magnet work. I didn't realize until now that this speaker was obviously the subwoofer.


In the XBR960 this is about a 3 1/2" speaker, essentially free-floating in the middle of the interior, pointing up and attached to the metal cagework that supports the rear of the picture tube. It might be assigned low frequencies by the audio circuitry and it might be getting 15W, but it does not use the cabinet in any way for resonance or improved bass response. It's just there and shooting up into the air inside the cavity. This is very different from the subwoofer built into my previous Sampo, where the high-performance subwoofer was down on the bottom of the cabinet and produced a very big bass sound.


So I guess technically the XBR960 does appear to have what is called a subwoofer, but from a sound point of view it's just weak and disappointing to me... as are the two 7.5W satellite speaker clusters on the left and right sides. The Sampo had 12W satellites.


In contrast, the Altec-Lansing 621 2.1 computer speaker system which I use as my external speakers for the XBR960 is rated at 35W-45W for each of the two satellites (3" midrange + 1" tweeter, 80-22000hz), and 42W-53W (25-200hz) for the 6 1/2" subwoofer. 113W at 1% THD, 143W at 10% THD, total max of 200W peak power.


[NOTE: my earlier reference to 221 was a typo. I intended to type 621, not 221. The 221 is actually a currently existing but much inferior speaker system from Altec-Lansing. The 2.1 621, and its 4.1 big brother 641 (400W, 4 satellites, two 6 1/2" speakers in the subwoofer), both of which I own, were the top of the Altec-Lansing computer speaker line at one time a few years back.]


Anyway, all I'm really saying is that the audio system and built-in speakers in the XBR960 is not the reason you do or do not buy it. It's acceptable if you have no other choice for audio delivery, but that's really about as far as it goes.


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> Anyway, all I'm really saying is that the audio system and built-in speakers in the XBR960 is not the reason you do or do not buy it. It's acceptable if you have no other choice for audio delivery, but that's really about as far as it goes.



oh yeah of course not, but I was just trying to be informative


----------



## Gouki




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well I stand corrected.
> 
> 
> But have you actually seen that so-called "subwoofer"? I noticed it when the back was removed so that my technician could do his magnet thing on the back of my picture tube. He had to disconnect and remove it temporarily it in order to do his magnet work. I didn't realize until now that this speaker was obviously the subwoofer.
> 
> 
> In the XBR960 this is about a 3 1/2" speaker, essentially free-floating in the middle of the interior, pointing up and attached to the metal cagework that supports the rear of the picture tube. It might be assigned low frequencies by the audio circuitry and it might be getting 15W, but it does not use the cabinet in any way for resonance or improved bass response. It's just there and shooting up into the air inside the cavity. This is very different from the subwoofer built into my previous Sampo, where the high-performance subwoofer was down on the bottom of the cabinet and produced a very big bass sound.
> 
> 
> So I guess technically the XBR960 does appear to have what is called a subwoofer, but from a sound point of view it's just weak and disappointing to me... as are the two 7.5W satellite speaker clusters on the left and right sides. The Sampo had 12W satellites.
> 
> 
> In contrast, the Altec-Lansing 621 2.1 computer speaker system which I use as my external speakers for the XBR960 is rated at 35W-45W for each of the two satellites (3" midrange + 1" tweeter, 80-22000hz), and 42W-53W (25-200hz) for the 6 1/2" subwoofer. 113W at 1% THD, 143W at 10% THD, total max of 200W peak power.
> 
> 
> [NOTE: my earlier reference to 221 was a typo. I intended to type 621, not 221. The 221 is actually a currently existing but much inferior speaker system from Altec-Lansing. The 2.1 621, and its 4.1 big brother 641 (400W, 4 satellites, two 6 1/2" speakers in the subwoofer), both of which I own, were the top of the Altec-Lansing computer speaker line at one time a few years back.]
> 
> 
> Anyway, all I'm really saying is that the audio system and built-in speakers in the XBR960 is not the reason you do or do not buy it. It's acceptable if you have no other choice for audio delivery, but that's really about as far as it goes.




I don't want to sound like an elitist in any way, But I would never let my 960 do the audio work. Don't most of us have a decent receiver and a 5.1 setup? I have a meager sony reciever with a definitive technologies speaker setup. I know it's not the best, but it gets the job done.


----------



## Super Freak

So what are the difference between the XBR960 and XBR960n? Just a dust potector or something?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Super Freak* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So what are the difference between the XBR960 and XBR960n? Just a dust potector or something?



More or less, yeah. Anti-glare coating.


Same TV otherwise.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gouki* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't want to sound like an elitist in any way, But I would never let my 960 do the audio work. Don't most of us have a decent receiver and a 5.1 setup? I have a meager sony reciever with a definitive technologies speaker setup. I know it's not the best, but it gets the job done.



Agreed.


When I first got my XBR960 I was very disappointed in the audio out of it compared to the built-in sound from the Sampo which it replaced. I have the set in the bedroom of my 3rd-floor condo where I can't have a full-blown (or even modest) 5.1 setup because of the people downstairs, but the Sampo sound had been quite "acceptable" and I could live with it. The XBR960 sound was not.


My solution has been a Pioneer DIR-SE1000C Dolby Headphone unit (DD5.1 -> L/R-analog "virtual surround") connected optically to the digital audio output of my Zektor 4-to-1 component video switch. The L/R-analog output of the Pioneer is then connected to my DBX 14/10 14-band EQ for tone control, which is then connected to the L/R-analog input of my Stax SRM-T1S headphone amp which feeds my Stax Omega headphones.


I also have the 2-channel output (from the PCM content in the original digital audio stream) from the Pioneer routed through my Altec-Lansing 621 2.1 system, for the occasional situations when I just want to listen to excellent quality L/R-analog 2.1 sound (from the digital PCM source) without wearing headphones.


So 95% of my TV watching/listening is done through this DD5.1 -> Dolby Headphone arrangement. The remaining 5% is done using the PCM digital audio -> L/R analog feeding the 2.1 Altec-Lansing 621 speaker system. 0% uses the built-in XBR960 speakers.


----------



## david4455

Okay....Great info on this forum..... I just finished reading nearly all 90 pages....a bit of advice please.


I am looking to buy a Kd-34xbr960 that would replace a 32" mitsubishi 4:3 TV. I sit about 8 feet from the TV..maybe a inch or two more....


Am I going to be under whelmed by the Sony with this configuration? Appreciate your thoughts.....


Thanks.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *david4455* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am looking to buy a Kd-34xbr960 that would replace a 32" mitsubishi 4:3 TV. I sit about 8 feet from the TV..maybe a inch or two more....
> 
> 
> Am I going to be under whelmed by the Sony with this configuration? Appreciate your thoughts.....



Looking at a 4:3 32" (diagonal) screen is quite different from looking at a 16:9 34" (diagonal) screen. In fact, the height of the 34" 16:9 screen is really only that of a 27" 4:3! So while it certainly is wider, it actually may appear much smaller than the 32" which you've gotten used to, especially when watching 4:3 SD content.


I just measured off 8' from my screen (which is in my bedroom), and that would put me sitting in the middle of my bed. This is about 3' further back than I normally sit (which is at around the foot of the bed). Doesn't seem that significant, but the angular field of view difference in those 3' seems substantial as I experiment.


Sure, the picture still looks great from back further... but it definitely looks tinier, and that detracts from the sense of realism that this set can provide. And I can't help but strongly see the outline of the cabinet from 8', whereas at 5' I seem to get only the screen (although the cabinet is obviously in the periphery).


There really is a difference, and the fact of the matter is that this is a relatively small screen. Sitting 8' from a 4:3 32" SD set is just not the same as sitting 8' from 16:9 34" HD set.


I strongly recommend that you go to a store where it's on display, and try it for yourself at your planned 8' distance. It'll still be a terrific picture, but perhaps not a glassless window-frame opening out into the glorious real world as it would be if you were a bit closer. I know this seems a bit harsh, but the small size of this screen doesn't allow for much leeway.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *david4455* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Okay....Great info on this forum..... I just finished reading nearly all 90 pages....a bit of advice please.
> 
> 
> I am looking to buy a Kd-34xbr960 that would replace a 32" mitsubishi 4:3 TV. I sit about 8 feet from the TV..maybe a inch or two more....
> 
> 
> Am I going to be under whelmed by the Sony with this configuration? Appreciate your thoughts.....
> 
> 
> Thanks.



While you're waiting for the 960, go to WalMart and get the cheapest 13" TV you can find. Put it where the 960 will sit and watch it until the 960 arrives.


When it gets there it will appear huge and you will have no worries. If the 960 starts to feel small again, pull out the 13" and watch it for a few days.


It's all about perspective.


----------



## AriasCA

Coming from somebody who just upgraded from a Phillips 32" SD to 34" Sony XBR, you will NOT be underwhelmed especially watching HD and DVD content. I don't notice any difference in size except the PQ was ten times better. The Pillarbox SD programming is not as bad as I thought. Sure its smaller but its well worth the trade off having Widescreen movies fill the screen whereas the 32"s has a much smaller picture . Its all depends on what you watch the most.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Originally Posted by david4455

I am looking to buy a Kd-34xbr960 that would replace a 32" mitsubishi 4:3 TV. I sit about 8 feet from the TV..maybe a inch or two more....


Am I going to be under whelmed by the Sony with this configuration? Appreciate your thoughts.....



Our set also replaced a 32" Toshiba 4x3 and we asked the same question of this forum before making the purchase. Since our Toshiba was also eight feet away we can attest you will not be underwhelmed by the size of the picture.


Realize the Sony can be closer to you than your current 32 inch set without having to move your sofa. The 960 is about six inches deeper and we placed it an additional six to eight inches off the wall (less noticable than a 4x3 set moved further in). This reduced our viewing range to slightly less than seven feet (recently we moved it in another six inches but found the extra half foot not making so critical a difference to compensate for the ackward appearance and the center speaker too much out of line with the main ones).


After a short time we forgot the 4x3 size was reduced approximately 20% (we use the wide stretch mode to fill out the screen so this is really irrelevant to us). And the 16x9 size (with the set a foot closer than the old one) is a lot larger. We also realized a LCD or Plasma would be at least two more feet away from us so the Sony's viewing size would be more than that of a 37 inch model and slightly less than one at 42 inches. And there is no comparision to the picture quality.


Hope our experience helps you with making your decision.


----------



## lsfrankel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hywdx80* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Im with Direct tv. I dont have any HD packages with direct tv, but only a terk indoor HDTV antenna hooked threw a direct tv hd box or also I have it hooked up straight to the UHF port on the tv. When you watch something in HD on ABC look at the ABC logo on the bottom right of the screen. I notice it bounces up and down. The whole screen does this but it is easier to tell on an image that is suppose to stay put, (logo, monday night football ticker, etc...)



I'll be watching the MNF game tonight with one eye on the ABC logo in the lower right hand corner. I'll use my Twin View with HD and SD and I hope you will be monitoring it too. In fact, I'll even have a VCR running to double check.


----------



## MarcWalpole




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rustycruiser* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry for the cross post
> 
> 
> I just finished reading this all the posts in this thread. I came across a number of posts that had the same problem I am having. with my 34XS955. The problem is that the digital tuner doesn't come on when I power the TV on from a cold start. The TV turns on, but the screen is blank on all OTA channels, and says "no signal". The analog tuner still works, but the picture on it is degraded. If I power the TV on and off, most times the digital tuner will turn on and I will get all the OTA channels.
> 
> 
> Has anybody who has had this problem had their 34XBR960 repaired? Any idea what the repaired? Or have they just replaced it?



I have a 2 month old 34XBR960 that has had 2 tuners replaced; I still have the same problem as rustycruiser;after reading this and several other posts, I'm thinking it is not the tuner but the "q-box" I saw somewhere(sorry, I've been reading for hours); what is this and does replacing it solve the "no signal" problem; like rustycruiser, powering the set off/on solves the problem, but that is no way to go ...


----------



## lsfrankel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hywdx80* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> lsfrankel - you live near me. I live in acworth. Do you notice a problem on ABC HD with the images bouncing up / down ?



After careful review, the play on the screen is overruled. There is a definite jitter going on with the bottom scroll on ABCHD. And not on ABCSD. That is the only thing I see tonight bouncing.


----------



## hywdx80




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lsfrankel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> After careful review, the play on the screen is overruled. There is a definite jitter going on with the bottom scroll on ABCHD. And not on ABCSD. That is the only thing I see tonight bouncing.



That is what i noticed at first... If you look closer you can see the actually whole screen moving and its not just the scroll bar. The scroll bar is easiest to look at because it suppose to sit still







I notice this on anything in HD on ABC


----------



## richardbk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *snatta* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do most of you guys have the Sony SU-34XBR3 stand? Can that stand accommodate a Comcast DVR/HD box on the hanging shelf that comes with it? Is there room for a stereo receiver or DVD player on the bottom part of the stand that is shaped like a V? Does anyone have any suggestions for another stand that can handle the XBR960 weight and have at least 2 full shelf slots?



Assembling the stand, I was pleasantly surprised to discover you can order a _second_ glass shelf, so that you can have shelves in _both_ positions. It costs about $40. Currently I am only using the one shelf in the "lower" position; stacked on this one shelf are a "standard-sized" Yamaha A/V receiver, a slim Sony DVP-NS90V CD/DVD player and a PlayStation 2. (I have CableCard, blessfully, so no converter box.) The DVD player would also fit in the space below the bottom shelf, resting on the base of the stand.


----------



## POWERFUL

Richardbk who do you use for Cablecard? And is it stable?


----------



## david4455

My TV arrives Friday. I went out and bought the C.C. stand and it just doesn't look right in my living room.


I found at Macy's on sale a nice armoire that is made to hold TV's 40 wide but the depth is about 3 or 4 inches short of the xbr's 24" depth.....


My question.... I have heard that the TV is front heavy but can I just put the TV on the 20" deep "floor" of the armoire and let 4" stick out the back( the armoire has an open back) or should I make something to support that extra 4".... perhaps a false floor that sticks out the back a bit?


Thanks.


----------



## liquidneba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *david4455* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My TV arrives Friday. I went out and bought the C.C. stand and it just doesn't look right in my living room.
> 
> 
> I found at Macy's on sale a nice armoire that is made to hold TV's 40 wide but the depth is about 3 or 4 inches short of the xbr's 24" depth.....
> 
> 
> My question.... I have heard that the TV is front heavy but can I just put the TV on the 20" deep "floor" of the armoire and let 4" stick out the back( the armoire has an open back) or should I make something to support that extra 4".... perhaps a false floor that sticks out the back a bit?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



I won't worry about it. I've lifted my XBR960 a few times (with help on the other side). The center of gravity on this bad boy is totally up front. I've had the top opened, the parts on at the back of case weigh no more than 10 lbs.


----------



## kny3twalker

I believe the third foot of the TV is in the center of the back

you might consider putting something under the TV so it does not point up in the air or wobble when bumped


----------



## keithos27

Hi there! I am new to this board and see that everyone here is very knowledgeable! I hope this is the correct thread...


I am currently thinking of buying a HDTV and would really appreciate your honest opinion/advice. I live in a NYC apartment and have a bedroom and living room. Both are rather small. In my bedroom right now I have a Sony 27" 4:3 CRT and in the living room I have a Sony 32" 4:3 CRT. Love them both.


I want to get a HDTV since I will be buying an Xbox 360 in January of 2006. I am really looking to spend about $1,900 max. I have done some research and have heard that the absolute best picture you can get is actually from a CRT HDTV (better than any $10K plasma for example). So I've been looking at Sony's latest and greatest (KV-34XBR960N). Apparently that is supossed to be the reference standard? Looks like a really nice TV! From what I can tell the only drawback of that TV is its limitation to 34" and it weighing 200 lbs. Someone once said you need to worry of the resolution and lagging? Will this TV suffer from that or anything else?


Is there something else I should be looking at? I don't need a huge projection TV or anything... Next year I'll probably be moving into a one bedroom apartment and doing my MBA so this isn't going in my master entertainment room in my mansion or anything.










What about these new Sony LCoS TVs? I *think* I'm still best off with their 34" XBR CRT, no? If so, is that the best price I can get ($1,900)? Also, what is the new version with the N in the name mean?


Thanks!!!! Really appreciate you taking the time.


Sincerely,

Keith


----------



## gigaguy

I have the 960 and really like it for HD and DVD, I don't play games.

If LCos is LCD it's gonna cost a lot more than the 960.

The 960N changed the coating on the screen that some had objected to, and had rubbed off with some cleaners if I read the posts right.

I think the new one has a lighter picture ddue to the different non-reflective coating, the 960 runs darker. There's a post here about it somewhere.

The 960 is a great TV, esp for the price considering what flat panel HD costs.

the 960 has been on sale below it's $1899 price at major stores.


----------



## tivotony

...just had my 960 delivered and I'm going through many of the set-up recommendations that I've found within this forum. Howewver, when I try to hook my HR10-250 to the 960 via a HDMI cable, I get nothing on video 7. No vid, no aud. I realize I may be doing something wrong, but I don't know what it is. Anyone out there with a helpful hint?


I appreciate the help.


----------



## richardbk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *POWERFUL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Richardbk who do you use for Cablecard? And is it stable?



I have CableCard with RCN here in Manhattan. No problems whatsover. It's hard to describe how good it feels to not have a converter box! Perfect for me because I never use pay-per-view or "on demand".


----------



## david4455

After what I thought was lots of careful research I bought my xbr960 from Circuit City for $1699 plus a modest delivery charge. I was told it would be on the next truck coming in Thursday. Now I am told it wasn't on the truck.... perhaps Sunday.


Is this a common problem with these companies? Very frustrating..as I have a nice hole in my entertainment center waiting for this TV....


----------



## drkashner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tivotony* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ...just had my 960 delivered and I'm going through many of the set-up recommendations that I've found within this forum. Howewver, when I try to hook my HR10-250 to the 960 via a HDMI cable, I get nothing on video 7. No vid, no aud. I realize I may be doing something wrong, but I don't know what it is. Anyone out there with a helpful hint?
> 
> 
> I appreciate the help.



I have my HR10-250 connected to my 960 with HDMI, no problems. Did you make sure the DVR is set on 1080i? You won't get anything through the HDMI (I don't think) if it is not on 1080i. I also have the component cables connected to the TV.


----------



## datamage

Greetings everyone. First I want to say thanks for all the information on here, been very helpful.


I took the plunge and got the XBR960, and it's a total beauty. Adjusted some minor geometry issues, and am trying to fix every little thing that I can.


I notice (moreso on a white screen or blue) that there's like a smudge on the lower left hand side of the screen. Almost like speaker interference but not as severe. My VM1s are magnetically-shielded, so that's not it. (I even moved it away to make sure) Now maybe it's my imagination, but it's not as noticeable when the tv is first turned on. Anyhow, I recall on my CRT monitor there was an option to fix that called 'landing' I believe. Is there something similar to that in the service menu?


Thanks,


- D.


----------



## tivotony

*Pink Faces.*


I seem to be getting a lot of pink in facial areas, despite using the recommended settings I found a few pages back. Also, skin areas seem to be blotchy in some scenes. I've tried playing around with the various vid settings, but can't seem to conquer the pinkness of the picture. Any thoughts on this? I appreciate any advice.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tivotony* /forum/post/0
> 
> *Pink Faces.*
> 
> 
> I seem to be getting a lot of pink in facial areas, despite using the recommended settings I found a few pages back. Also, skin areas seem to be blotchy in some scenes. I've tried playing around with the various vid settings, but can't seem to conquer the pinkness of the picture. Any thoughts on this? I appreciate any advice.




Go to Pro, and Monitor, and make sure your hue is at dead center and color is down to around 31.


Make sure your brightness is no higher than low to mid 40's, absolute tops, and picture/contrast no higher than somewhere in the mid 30's.


(I'm assuming you have not ISF calibrated your set.)


----------



## DSperber

Quote:

Originally Posted by *datamage*
Anyhow, I recall on my CRT monitor there was an option to fix that called 'landing' I believe. Is there something similar to that in the service menu?
There is a VERY extensive thread in this forum on tweaking the XBR960: The Sony Service codes - Articles, Comments, Discoveries 


Buried within this 580+ post thread are various attachments, one of which is a super-useful Excel spreadsheet (infinite thanks to its author) listing all of the service menu items along with default/factory values and "suggested" revisions. Remember, each set is different and yours may require different settings to satisfy your viewing pleasure. But this spreadsheet is unbelievably helpful, and I'm attaching it here so that you won't have to find it in that other thread (although you would likely still benefit from reading the super-worthwhile "how-to tutorials" written by KenTech and all the other comments.


And yes... there IS a "Landing" set of controls (group 15), although I confess I really don't know what it's for.


Don't forget to write down your existing values before any tweaking.


Good luck.



P.S. - it's the combination of "user menu" and "service menu" settings which determine what you see. Whichever you do first or second, remember that it is the combination of both which reflects what gets displayed. Furthermore, the XBR960 has memories for each input (plus iLink), so that makes your job that much more complex. I'd suggest starting by setting reasonably appropriate user menu values before entering the service menu to fine-tune.


But for sure, you should have your user menu mode set to PRO. Most users here also set "color axis" to MONITOR, but I personally am satisfied with DEFAULT. For all HD inputs I strongly urge you to set sharpness to MIN. You may need non-zero sharpness, e.g. 19, for poor-quality off-air SD but high-quality SD (e.g. satellite) should also have sharpness set to MIN. I have clear edge VM set to OFF and color temp set to COOL for all inputs. I have DRC mode set to "progressive" for my high-quality (satellite) SD input.


For my 720p/1080i HD input (INPUT6 and INPUT7), my remaining user mode values are picture=35, brightness=32, color=31, hue=0. You might try these to start, or adjust as you prefer. Just remember that you will no doubt have different user mode settings for each input (that's why you select PRO) depending on the video characteristics of your source devices.

 

Sony_Service_Codes.zip 63.923828125k . file


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tivotony* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> can't seem to conquer the pinkness of the picture. Any thoughts on this?



Don't know what you've tried so far, and I'm not sure your "pinkness" description isn't actually the infamous "red push".


But you can definitely remove a reddish coloration (making skin look like real skin) by four crucial settings in the 2170P-4 group. There are several other threads in this forum concerned with "tweaking the XBR960", and "Sony Service Codes", that you should browse through (although both are quite extensive) which is where discussion on this subject is more on-topic.


But I suggest you try playing with the four crucial settings in 2170P4:


RYR - default 8, change to 13

RYB - default 9, change to 15

GYR - default 9, change to 5

GYB - default 6, change to 4


If you haven't yet tried adjusting these four items, I predict you will agree that the effect of the suggested alternate values is gigantic in eliminating reddishness of skin tone.


----------



## accord 4 me




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *datamage* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings everyone. First I want to say thanks for all the information on here, been very helpful.
> 
> 
> I took the plunge and got the XBR960, and it's a total beauty. Adjusted some minor geometry issues, and am trying to fix every little thing that I can.
> 
> 
> I notice (moreso on a white screen or blue) that there's like a smudge on the lower left hand side of the screen. Almost like speaker interference but not as severe. My VM1s are magnetically-shielded, so that's not it. (I even moved it away to make sure) Now maybe it's my imagination, but it's not as noticeable when the tv is first turned on. Anyhow, I recall on my CRT monitor there was an option to fix that called 'landing' I believe. Is there something similar to that in the service menu?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> - D.



mine has that same "interference" smudge on the top right corner, what could that be?


----------



## datamage

DSperber,


Thanks for the reply, I'll definitely take a look @ the service codes. Thank you for providing that.


As for the other tweaks, I've pretty much done them already. Was using the AVIA disc to double-check. I'll see if the 'landing' is the same as it was on my crt, and I'll report back once I fiddle with it.


- D.


----------



## datamage




> Quote:
> mine has that same "interference" smudge on the top right corner, what could that be?



I forgot the technical reasons behind it, but I remember on my CRT monitor I had the same problem and I was able to fix it with the 'landing' setting. For the life of me I can't remember what 'landing' is actually doing, but I think it's regarding the purity of the color across the screen.


- D.


----------



## Jetman36

Well I'm offically part of the club, XBR 960 getting delivered on Saturday...


----------



## jobi wan kenobi

Starting today Circuit City is advertising the 34xbr960 for $1639 (you have to "see sale price in cart" to get this price)(in store only). Cheapest I've seen it retail.

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Sony-...oductDetail.do


----------



## germ79

How do you all feel about buying from Circuit City? Is it better to spend the extra couple hundred dollars and go with a local authorized dealer who will be able to service the TV if something should happen to it? The dealer will come out to service the TV for free within the Sony 2 year warranty. It would seem you would have to purchase an extended warranty from Circuit City to get them to help you if something goes wrong. Any thoughts?


Jeremy


----------



## jobi wan kenobi

Post 5 so I can fix the url in Post 4 !!


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *accord 4 me* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> mine has that same "interference" smudge on the top right corner, what could that be?



The "smudge" is probably a magnetized screen. Moving the speaker away won't fix the problem, because the screen is already magnetized.


The set "degausses" (de-magnetizes) itself on turn-on. So if you move the speaker and then turn on the set, it will probably fix itself, assuming the speaker is the culprit. (Of course, as soon as you moved speaker back, the problem will reappear.) But at least this is one way to identify the problem.


Also, I believe the set gives itself a more complete degaussing if you unplug it for 5 minutes beforehand, but Iamb not sure about this--worth trying, however!


Mark


----------



## liquidneba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *germ79* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How do you all feel about buying from Circuit City? Is it better to spend the extra couple hundred dollars and go with a local authorized dealer who will be able to service the TV if something should happen to it? The dealer will come out to service the TV for free within the Sony 2 year warranty. It would seem you would have to purchase an extended warranty from Circuit City to get them to help you if something goes wrong. Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> Jeremy




I don't see any value in doing that. Ram rod ~$1550.00 or so down the throat of the nearest CC or BB salesperson. Have the TV delivered and setup for a modest charge. Anything happens call Sony Customer Service, if they can't help you over the phone they'll give you a work ID and have the local Sony Authorized Service Center setup an appointment to take a look at/fix your TV. The 2 year warranty is parts and labor, you pay nill. Why pay more money from some local dealer to look at the TV for free, when you can already do that by sticking to CC or BB?


My two cents. I'm currently working through issues with my TV with Sony Customer Service(new XBR960N is already in Rochester, need to schedule an appointment for delivery), so I know what I'm talking about...


----------



## germ79

What about buying through an online place like Crutchfield? Would I get just as good of service (if something were to go wrong) from them as I would on authorized dealer? I guess I don't completely understand how the 2 yr. warranty works when you need to use it.


J


----------



## kny3twalker

Crutchfield is an authorized Sony dealer so you would get the complete Sony warranty, in which Sony would take care of you after Crutchfield's 30 or 90 day return policy, not sure which it is


Crutchfield is not located in the bronx or bronklyn and there ratings are top notch unlike the rip off artist out of NYC


----------



## liquidneba

I've come to realize that Sony has two CRT manufacturing plants in the good 'ole USA.










The first is the Sony Technology Center - Pittsburgh, Pa. The actual plant is at 1001 Technology Drive, Mt. Pleasant, Westmoreland County, Pa 15666. It's about 40 miles outside of Pittsburgh. This is also where my original and first replacement TV were made in, which have the same problem of ghosting and trailing. (The label info on the back has the manufacturing site on it.) The aperture grilles are also made here. Across the street from the main facility there's a division of Sony called American Video Glass, (the last US producer) that makes the funnels and glass front panels for the directview CRTs.


The second plant is (drum-roll) the Sony Technology Center - San Diego, Ca. The actual plant is at 16450 W Bernardo Dr, San Diego, CA 92127. My second replacement TV is coming from California, so I'm pretty sure it was made at this plant. I'm not sure who makes the glass components for CRTs made here.


I wonder if there's a different level of quality control... I'll just have to wait and see the new TV when it's delivered.


----------



## liquidneba

For the constant regulars on this thread. I've found more information about my ghosting/trailing issues on my XBR960.


According to CNET http://reviews.cnet.com/Labs/4520-6603_7-5021089-1.html this phenomenon is called Mid-range Streaking.


"As the title suggests, this screen allows us to check the display's propensity for /streaking/ and /ghosting/, light or dark shadows that trail an image in areas where large changes in intensity are present. You may detect this on your own monitor when it renders large, chunky graphics elements such as bar graphs or tiled arrangements of open windows."


This test is used for CRT computer monitors, it would work for CRT TVs too.


On another site, http://www.pctechguide.com/glossary/...?catSelected=8 the term "streaking" is defined.


"A visual effect which is related to white level shift' and black level shift', where the difference in intensity between neighbouring white and black areas results in a discoloration. Occurs when a CRT's electron gun does not switch on and off quickly enough."


So to me its either slow phosphor response on the screen or an electron gun with a lower refresh rate. (Maybe a combination of the two.)




Comments?


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *liquidneba* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Comments?



I can only offer a very selfish one.










Glad my 960 is fine.


----------



## hywdx80

I have the same problem. Im interested too


----------



## liquidneba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I can only offer a very selfish one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad my 960 is fine.



I assume you have tried looking this: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post6470733 


If you can't see it let me know. (It gives me hope!)


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *liquidneba* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I assume you have tried looking this: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post6470733
> 
> 
> If you can't see it let me know. (It gives me hope!)



Watched III a couple of times with no problem. No ghost, no trails, no etc. Just a great picture through a Denon 3910 connected via HDMI.


----------



## liquidneba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Watched III a couple of times with no problem. No ghost, no trails, no etc. Just a great picture through a Denon 3910 connected via HDMI.




Send me a pm with your address and let me know when you aren't home...


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *liquidneba* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Send me a pm with your address and let me know when you aren't home...



Good luck with your replacement set.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kny3twalker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Crutchfield is an authorized Sony dealer so you would get the complete Sony warranty, in which Sony would take care of you after Crutchfield's 30 or 90 day return policy, not sure which it is
> 
> 
> Crutchfield is not located in the bronx or bronklyn and there ratings are top notch unlike the rip off artist out of NYC



We also purchased our set through Crutchfield because of its reputation and customer service.


Kny, please be kind to the Big Apple. True, there are many rip-off artists here but you'll find there are just as many throughout the rest of the country and all over the internet.


----------



## kny3twalker

sorry for singling them out

I am sure there are plenty of good places to shop in NY as well as sites based out of NYC


and of course they are all over the country

it just seems that there is a large proportion in the bronx and brooklyn so becareful


here's the list
http://donwiss.com/pictures/BrooklynStores/ 


and New York is the big apple of my eye


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kny3twalker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> sorry for singling them out
> 
> I am sure there are plenty of good places to shop in NY as well as sites based out of NYC
> 
> 
> and of course they are all over the country
> 
> it just seems that there is a large proportion in the bronx and brooklyn so becareful
> 
> 
> here's the list
> http://donwiss.com/pictures/BrooklynStores/
> 
> 
> and New York is the big apple of my eye



Nice link.


Not much overhead to run some of those places, I guess that's why prices are so low.


----------



## Jetman36

I just got the XBR960 and it's amazing. What can I say it's the most accurate picture I have ever seen in my life. With that being said, as above posters have mentioned, I have experienced the ghosting/smearing issue.


I started noticing it yesterday (1st day with the set) when I watched Mulholland Dr. (DVD) with my GF. The first ten minutes were so bad ghosting wise I had to turn it off. Low and behold I starting noticing on SD Cable too.


The Fix? I was using the settings that were posted on this thread, which had brightness really really low. All I did was raise the brightness to around 43 and voila no more ghosting. And believe me the picture hasn't suffered on my set because of this, IMO it got even better. Give it a shot if your having these issues.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kny3twalker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> sorry for singling them out
> 
> I am sure there are plenty of good places to shop in NY as well as sites based out of NYC
> 
> 
> and of course they are all over the country
> 
> it just seems that there is a large proportion in the bronx and brooklyn so becareful
> 
> 
> here's the list
> http://donwiss.com/pictures/BrooklynStores/
> 
> 
> and New York is the big apple of my eye



Hi Kny3,


Glad NYC is the big apple for both our eyes!


----------



## germ79

Hello everyone! I'm still trying to decide where to buy from, but in the meantime, I have a question.


I know the 3LCD rp tv's have a connection for your computer. I thought that would be pretty cool, but I know the XBR960 doesn't have it. Is there any other way to hook it up?


Jeremy


In case it matters, I have an Apple iMac G5 with a 20" widescreen.


----------



## kny3twalker

yes you can connect a PC to the XBR960 using a DVI to HDMI cable or using a component ready video card


the only issue is the fact that Sony XBR960, only displays 480p progressively

all HD inputs will be displayed at 1080i which is not suitable for text

but looks great for video


----------



## germ79

I just looked on the Apple site and there are 2 adapters available to use for "mirroring" your screen.


One is to connect to a VGA port and the other is to connect using S-video or composite. I'm assuming I'd want the one that uses the S-video or composite connections? How do you think it will look?


In case you are interested, here are the links:

VGA adapter 

Video adapter 


Thanks for your help everyone!


Jeremy


----------



## germ79

kny, what do you mean "not suitable for text?" It looks bad?


Here is a link to some info on hooking my computer up to a tv. At the bottom of the page it mentions being able to change resolutions. Would that help?

Linky-poo


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> One is to connect to a VGA port and the other is to connect using S-video or composite. I'm assuming I'd want the one that uses the S-video or composite connections? How do you think it will look?



svideo and composite will look like crap on a HDTV use monitor use


you will want to use component or DVI to HDMI only



> Quote:
> kny, what do you mean "not suitable for text?" It looks bad?



not suitable for text cause it is interlaced

meaning only half of the lines of the display are active at once

this tends to a nasty flicker which will give you a headache quickly



from the options you have, the best thing to do is get the VGA output adapter

but then you would also need a transcoder to convert VGA to component

using simply an adapter to go from VGA to component will not work


a transcoder runs about 100-200 dollars, or you can maybe buy a new video card with DVI or component output for less


but then for desktop use, you will want to use 480p resolution

which is 720x480 at 59.940 Hz


can your mac mini not output DVI?


----------



## germ79

It is an iMac and the only document I can find regarding the video out is the one I linked to in my last post. How can I figure out if it can? Maybe I'll have to call Apple and ask.


Thanks for the info!


----------



## kny3twalker

the IMac would have an adapter like the VGA adapter


if it does not, your best bet is the VGA adapter from Apple and a transcoder like this

http://www.digitalconnection.com/pro...video/kdxb.asp 

thats the cheapest one and look at the PC specs at bottom



> Quote:
> For PC:
> 
> Resolutions up to 1280X1024/70



they sell quite a few others as well and are a safe store to purchase from


here's the complete list
https://www.digitalconnection.com/St...oduct_List.asp


----------



## germ79

The iMac's video out port is kinda funky looking. I think they make it that way so you have to buy the adapter that has a VGA end or the S-video/composite end.


Here is a pic of the port:

iMac ports 



So you think I'd need the adapter that goes from the iMac port to the VGA end and ALSO need the piece you gave me a link for?


J


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> So you think I'd need the adapter that goes from the iMac port to the VGA end and ALSO need the piece you gave me a link for?



yes because it converts VGA to component (not composite)


as I said in my earlier post that VGA cannot be converted to component without a transcoder


I understood the IMAC has a strange video output port


you CAN do composite or Svideo, but it will be limited to 480i resolution and will look like CRAP


here's a good article on using transcoders

http://www.digitalconnection.com/FAQ/HDTV_4.asp


----------



## germ79

Thanks SO much for all of your help! So, if I use the Apple VGA adapter along with the transcoder, do you think the PQ would be pretty decent?


J


----------



## kny3twalker

for text at 480p only, yes

for video at either 1080i or 480p, yes


did you read the link for instructions on how to output 480p and 1080i?


----------



## POWERFUL

What about VGA to DVI, then DVI to HDMI?


----------



## kny3twalker

you cannot convert analogue VGA to digital DVI without really expensive equipment

like broadcast quality equipment

$$$$$$


you would just buy a new more friendly computer which has DVI output first


----------



## POWERFUL

Then what about DVI to VGA cable from Apple? Can't it work both ways?


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> Then what about DVI to VGA cable from Apple? Can't it work both ways?


*NO*, and there is no conversion there, DVI on video cards outputs DVI I which is analogue and digital

HDMI is backwards compatible with only DVI D which is digital only


and VGA is only analogue


----------



## kctobyjoe

I too bought mine from Crutchfield last year. To the door delivery...albeit before this unit started getting 'discounted' like it is at present. I'll admit I havent read *every* post on the 960 here, so I will give you my 'problem.

I have a bowing on the upper RH and upper LH parts of the screen. Since I am pulling this from memory, I can't recall in which direct the 'bow' goes. If I watch a REAL 16 x 9 HD feed from CBS the picture fills(obviuosly) and that problem is less prevalent if evident at all. However, if I play a DVD, it's more noticable, or if something is playing at 1:85 : 1. (FOX)


Is this a problem correctable via the service menu, or do I require a service call ? Unfortunately, I am light years away from SONY service that they'd 'drop over the house' . The same goes for any ISF labs. :-(


Feel free to 'e' me at my listed addy, or to my gmail acct. Use the same moniker I use to post with.


Thankx loads.


In the event that a URL will give me the answer please ship it to me. Sry if this has been discussed as infinitum before.


----------



## tennberg

Random post of the day:


Does anyone know if it's possible to buy an empty 960 box from anywhere? The reason I ask is that when my second one was delivered (the first one had a dead spot on the screen with no color), it happened to be raining that day. The delivery guys seemed to have put the bottom of the box on the ground for a few seconds.


When the box dried, it started warping in corners, and doesn't go on properly. I was thinking of trashing it, but hesitated, knowing this was the best way to transport the TV. I am hesitant to use it for transport though since the box is damaged.


So, is it possible to buy an empty, non-damaged box somewhere?


----------



## njt

Many thanks to Dsperber and others discussing optimal viewing distance. I had to rearange the living room this weekend, and went from 10' down to just under 7'. It really is more enjoyable.


Also for those considering this set but concerned about weight/moving: I recommend the Sony stand. It must have some slider material on the bottom. I was able to move the set off an area rug> hardwood floors, and back, by myself. Don't get me wrong... it's a hefty job... but it certainly can be done by one person alone.


----------



## Super Freak

Hi guys...


Quick question.


I bought the XBR960 a week ago, but I noticed a chip in th side casing.


So I returned it to Best Buy for a new one.


Anyhoo, my old one was manufactured in July '05. My new one was manufactured in Febuary '05.


Were there any issues I need to know about on the older ones? Or are they both of same quality.


I thought I read once that older ones had some screen problems.


Please tell me I'm safe.....


----------



## gigaguy

I think most of the issues were from 04 models, had tuner issues that I recall.

My 960 is from June 05, no problems.


----------



## david4455

I just got my 960 last night.... we are getting to "know" each other.....If I want to get it professionally calibrated as many of you suggest...what is the first place to begin the search for a good technician? I live in the Seattle area. And about how much should I expect to pay?


Thanks.


----------



## drkashner

My 960 was a year old on Dec. 1. I've never had it calibrated, and I'm always changing the hue to suit me. Usually on SD stuff it is too green, but HD stuff it is usually right on when I set hue to 0 and it seems lately I've had to set hue even more red to 6 or 7. Would a calibration help this? This is on the same input, Video 7 HDMI from my Directv HD DVR. I understand that each input has its own settings. Does anyone know of a professional calibrator in south central PA or northern MD. I live between Baltimore and York, PA


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *david4455* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just got my 960 last night.... we are getting to "know" each other.....If I want to get it professionally calibrated as many of you suggest...what is the first place to begin the search for a good technician? I live in the Seattle area. And about how much should I expect to pay?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



http://www.imagingscience.com/isf-trained.cfm 


Minimum about $225, give or take.


Also check our display calibration forum here at AVS: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=139


----------



## keithos27




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *keithos27* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi there! I am new to this board and see that everyone here is very knowledgeable! I hope this is the correct thread...
> 
> 
> I am currently thinking of buying a HDTV and would really appreciate your honest opinion/advice. I live in a NYC apartment and have a bedroom and living room. Both are rather small. In my bedroom right now I have a Sony 27" 4:3 CRT and in the living room I have a Sony 32" 4:3 CRT. Love them both.
> 
> 
> I want to get a HDTV since I will be buying an Xbox 360 in January of 2006. I am really looking to spend about $1,900 max. I have done some research and have heard that the absolute best picture you can get is actually from a CRT HDTV (better than any $10K plasma for example). So I've been looking at Sony's latest and greatest (KV-34XBR960N). Apparently that is supossed to be the reference standard? Looks like a really nice TV! From what I can tell the only drawback of that TV is its limitation to 34" and it weighing 200 lbs. Someone once said you need to worry of the resolution and lagging? Will this TV suffer from that or anything else?
> 
> 
> Is there something else I should be looking at? I don't need a huge projection TV or anything... Next year I'll probably be moving into a one bedroom apartment and doing my MBA so this isn't going in my master entertainment room in my mansion or anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What about these new Sony LCoS TVs? I *think* I'm still best off with their 34" XBR CRT, no? If so, is that the best price I can get ($1,900)? Also, what is the new version with the N in the name mean?
> 
> 
> Thanks!!!! Really appreciate you taking the time.
> 
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> Keith



^Can anyone comment, please? Thanks.


-Keith


----------



## Q of BanditZ

Keithos,


The only difference with N is something to do with the glare coating on the screen. Nothing else is different.


The Sony Lcos sets are amazing. If you have the beans, and want the size, I think you'd be very happy with them. Home Theater Magazine rated those new SXRD's "the best RPTV's we've ever seen" with near-CRT black levels.


I've seen them for myself. If I were going to buy an RPTV, I'd probably buy one of those myself.


The XBR960 (n or otherwise) are considered professional, reference grade monitors, especially after an ISF calibration. It comes down to your budget, your viewing distance, and size considerations. ($1900 max rules out the LCOS sets.)


I know you'd be very happy with the XBR960, n or otherwise.


----------



## keithos27

Q of BanditZ,


Thanks for the reply! How is this system with an Xbox 360 (the XBR 960)? Any issues of 1080i vs. 720 p and all of that jazz?


----------



## Super Freak

Keith, the 360 looks awesome on the XBR960.


Just set the system to 1080i in the dashboard.


1080i on this CRT looks better than 720p on an LCD. Trust me. You'll love it.


----------



## keithos27




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Super Freak* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Keith, the 360 looks awesome on the XBR960.
> 
> 
> Just set the system to 1080i in the dashboard.
> 
> 
> 1080i on this CRT looks better than 720p on an LCD. Trust me. You'll love it.



Thanks Super Freak. I trust you.


----------



## gte024h

My local Best Buy has a customer return 34XBR960 for $1200. It's got some scratches on the housing, but otherwise it's in good shape. I am bring my Avia DVD tomorrow to test it out, any suggestions on what to look for?


Assuming it is working right, is $1200 for a used 34XBR960 a good deal? The PSP (extended warranty) is $200, and I plan on buying that unless anyone has a better suggestion.


Thanks for the great thread BTW!


----------



## david4455

So I have had my 960 for 48 hours....it has grown on me. At first I was a little disappointed in the SD signal as well as the way had to do so much strectching oif the image to fill the screen to a decent size. I do have an OTA antenna and I must admit that watching a program yesterday in true HD gave me chills. It is fun to be able to see "showroom" quality in my little living room.


Sometimes one of the drawbacks to reading forums like this is that it is much more intense and "serious" than I would normally be about a TV. I have learned so much but it has also made me a little paranoid that I should be looking for something wrong in my set. I called a tech to come and calibrate the TV and he told me it was over kill.....since I was watching it in my living room and I had no idea what was "wrong" with it in the first place why go to that expense. He has a point.


I have adjusted the numbers according to some of the suggestions on this site. The screen is beautiful although a tad bit dark for my taste.....but I still don't know if I am geting that ultimate experience since I have no benchmark to judge it on.....


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *david4455* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So I have had my 960 for 48 hours....it has grown on me. At first I was a little disappointed in the SD signal as well as the way had to do so much strectching oif the image to fill the screen to a decent size. I do have an OTA antenna and I must admit that watching a program yesterday in true HD gave me chills. It is fun to be able to see "showroom" quality in my little living room.
> 
> 
> Sometimes one of the drawbacks to reading forums like this is that it is much more intense and "serious" than I would normally be about a TV. I have learned so much but it has also made me a little paranoid that I should be looking for something wrong in my set. I called a tech to come and calibrate the TV and he told me it was over kill.....since I was watching it in my living room and I had no idea what was "wrong" with it in the first place why go to that expense. He has a point.
> 
> 
> I have adjusted the numbers according to some of the suggestions on this site. The screen is beautiful although a tad bit dark for my taste.....but I still don't know if I am geting that ultimate experience since I have no benchmark to judge it on.....



HI David,


Congratulations on your new 960. If you think it has grown on you now just wait a few more weeks! I also wondered if my set should be callibrated as suggested by others on this thread and appreciate you passing on what you were told by the technician. Don't worry, I get a little "paranoid" myself with these things.


As many will tell you, precise settings come down to individual preference. My brightness is in the mid-20 range for each of my inputs (HD, DVD, VHS and standard cable). I've noticed this lower setting enhances detail. I used the THX optomizer found on many DVD's (it has tests for contrast, brightness, sharpness and color) for my DVD input and as a guide for what picture quality should be like on HD and the others.


Write your settings down on paper and experiment raising or lowering each. You might want to leave extra room to record your second and third choices in order to go back and forth for comparision.


Hope these non-technical suggestions help. Let us know.


----------



## crosstuningforks

After weeks of agonizing research, and changing my mind at least a hundred times, I finally decided to pull the plug and go with the XBR960. I was very interested in the 50" SXRD, but also needed to spend a few $$ in other areas of the house...you know, the whole WAF issue!


I'd really like the size of the 50", but I'm pretty confident that the quality of image produced from the 960 will keep me happy for years to come. Once technology catches up a bit, and 1080p inputs and program material become commonplace, I can then upgrade and the 960 will make a great bedroom set.


My local high-end audio/video dealer here in Columbus has one 960 left, and they are giving me a great deal on it. They said that it arguably produces the very best PQ of anything they offer in the whole store, however the demand for the "coolness factor" of the plasmas have made them a tough sell...even with a better picture.


I won't be able to get it for at least a few days, then I have to wait for the cable company to install HD, but once that all happens...the party officially starts!


Thanks for all of the great information everybody provided on here.


----------



## kctobyjoe

You are correct about the SONY stand that is made specifically for thi s unit. I was lucky enough to get one made for the 960's precursor, the 910 model. The color is slightly different, but for the less than $100 I paid DELIVERED in 2 3 days, I have no complaints. I actually purchased the second shelf for some $35 from the original mfr. Well worth it and it increases the astetic value of the setup as well.


----------



## Spokker

I'm finally getting a second opinion from a different Sony Authorized Service Center for my damn TV.


It has bowing on the left hand side of the screen. That in itself doesn't really bother me. No CRT has perfect geometry. What really irritates me is the waviness that occurs when an image on the screen pans from left to right or right to left. It's as if the image is being projected onto a hilly surface. It's absolutely unacceptable. I've never seen any TV do that in my lifetime.


If this guy doesn't know what the problem is I'm going to demand that Sony replace the television. Hopefully another unit might be better.


----------



## kctobyjoe

What is the geometry of the bowing if I might ask? Its only on *one* side ? Mine exists on the upper left and upper right. Mirror images of each other. Dunno if this is due to a mfg defective setting or possibly a shielding defect with the internal speakers ? I am curious what SONY has to say.

If I have a full 16:9 image on the screen, there is NO noticable bowing at all. It exist most notibly on the furthestmost top edges when I have a 1:85 : 1 image on the screen!


----------



## gigaguy

crosstuningforks - congrats,

not sure of your local cable TV setup, but in my town, basic cable carries all the network HD signals w/o a cable box. I just plugged into my 960 and hit the tuner search. ABC, CBS, NBC, FOX, PBSHD are all receivable here. If you have cable tv and your provider doesn't block em, basic HD may already be accessible.


as far as size, not sure what size you're viewing now, I had a 32" 4:3 set before, so I went down to a 28" 4:3 view on this 34" 16:9, but HD and DVD make it worth it. I've already moved my sofa closer to the TV two times, I'm now about 6' away!


----------



## david4455

Okay.... I just noticed that when the "display" is on the the "bowing" that others have been talking about is visable....a slight curving downwards in the upper left/right of the screen and a slight curving upwards on the lower left/right of the screen.


Is this normal or at least acceptable? Or is Is it time to call Sony and ask for a fix?


Thanks for your input.....


----------



## Jon S

i'd say all the Sony 960s seem to exhibit some bowing on the horizontal plane.


----------



## david4455




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jon S* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i'd say all the Sony 960s seem to exhibit some bowing on the horizontal plane.



I called Sony and they are going to send out a tech.... is this overkill or should I let them come out....I hate for them to show up and say " This is common....."


----------



## Leviticus

Hey all...i just bought a 960 a week ago. Got a deal on a used one originally purchased in Sept. 05, used for one month..sold to me for $1200. Well the moving and transport of 100 miles seems to have caused a couple things..that may or may not have been there before. One of which is the bowing everyone is talking about. Its most noticable on the Channel number in the corner and in sports tickers. In fact it seems that the whole picture slants downward from left to right. Is this something that can easily be adjusted by a tech?


The TV had not previously been registered...and i have a copy of the receipt so i should be good on the warranty. Sony even sold me a 4yr extended warranty thru SonyStyle. The Tv was originally purchased from Circuit City.


So far all i have to really compare is apparently poor quality basic analog cable (no box) and DVDs. The DVDs look good but the SD content is not very good PQ. The lines are not smooth and there is some shadowing on the TV and between dark and light colors especially. Ive adjusted all the settings to what seems to be the suggested average settings on this board. Im still somewhat disappointed as to what id seen on this monitor in the stores. Should i get a tech out to look at the set?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jon S* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i'd say all the Sony 960s seem to exhibit some bowing on the horizontal plane.



I have always noticed a slight bowing watching 4x3 signals in the wide-stretch mode. Bowing also appears when the 960 displays its own information (Video 1, Video 2, etc.) but to me that is not important.


There is no bowing on HD broadcasts, DVDs, normal 4x3 viewing or black bars on widescreen material different than 16x9. It's only apparent on wide stretch (not on plain stretch). Is some sort of bowing to be expected when using wide stretch?


----------



## Spokker

It's not the bowing that bothers me. It's the waviness that occurs when the image pans from side to side. It's like the image is being projected onto a waving flag. I didn't pay almost 2 grand for that.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Leviticus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So far all i have to really compare is apparently poor quality basic analog cable (no box) and DVDs. The DVDs look good but the SD content is not very good PQ. Should i get a tech out to look at the set?



Absolutely.


Bowing, convergence, and other normal service menu adjustments for "out-of-the-box" problems are things the Sony factory tech can deal with. And it's free to you, so take advantage of it. Convergence adjustments may require magnets placed on the back of the picture tube and only a tech should do that.


If the tech's visit is unsatisfactory (e.g. he departs early, before you're satisfied, because he says "it's within factory spec" or "it's as close as I can get") and you can still see obvious defects and imperfections, call Sony a second time and prevail on them (you may need to be persistent) to either send you a second factory tech or authorize a free visit from a local authorized service tech from a list of 2 or 3 such providers near you. They will do that, and the local guy will hopefully be more qualified or motivated to deal with your remaining problems.


While the user menu controls are excellent (I'm sure you've already set the main ones to "PRO" and "MONITOR" to eliminate all pre-set factory biases and allow you to set/store/memorize individual values for each individual input source, as well as setting SHARPNESS=MIN for at least INPUT5-7 and reducing your sharpness for your SD INPUT1-3), it's not productive to get started with your long journey through the service menu and tweaks (until you're finally satisfied) until the set is in a basically acceptable starting condition. Sounds like you need [at least] this free factory service visit to get your set to look how it really should have out of the factory.


Note that this set is glorious in its HDTV rendition, but non-HD off-air local networks or non-digital analog cable sources cannot be improved much by any set if they are poor quality to begin with. Even DVD's are only 480p, which still will not demonstrate what you will eventually be able to see on this screen from true HD sources.


So please reserve judgement until you've gotten your set freely adjusted by a tech and also had a chance to witness off-air or cable/satellite-provided DTV/HDTV (and I mean true 16:9 HD content, not just anything transmitted on the digital channel) on this now properly adjusted XBR960.


Just a little patience required, but very great rewards promised. And hopefully you plan to sit somewhere between 5'-7' from the screen, better closer than further back being the agreed-upon sweet spot.


----------



## Spokker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Convergence adjustments may require magnets placed on the back of the picture tube and only a tech should do that.



Can you describe this procedure in more detail? Have you or anyone you know had it done? Was there an improvement?


Also, SD content isn't going to look good on a HDTV set. Keep your old TV for that.


----------



## Jon S

If it really bothers you, go ahead, but I have heard instances where some techs made it worse by screwing up convergence.


----------



## germ79

Oh man, the CC near me has an open box XBR960 for $1429! It is so tempting, but who knows how long this thing has been cranking out a picture! Tempting...but I think I must r-e-s-i-s-t!


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spokker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can you describe this procedure in more detail? Have you or anyone you know had it done? Was there an improvement?



My ISF calibrator did it for me and yes, it was absolutely worth it.


The ISF man willl tell you upfront if they're confident in doing the procedure. If they say "yes", go ahead and have them do it. If he says "no", take him at his word.


If you're under warranty, you might luck out and get a Sony tech who will do this for you for free.




> Quote:
> Also, SD content isn't going to look good on a HDTV set. Keep your old TV for that.



Incorrect. My SD never looked as good as it does on the XBR960.


----------



## TeeJay1952

XBR960 PIP only allows for Digital in the left pane. Comcast is "switching" analog chanels to digital with remaping deployed so it is seamless. Are we 960 owners going to lose PIP? (my personal favorite way to beat the commercials.)


----------



## airmike

So, If I can get a factory sealed 34xbr960 w/ Stand for 1860.00 (Shipped & Tax included) Should I do it?


Thats only 90.00 more than the 34xs955 w/stand package from crutchfield


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *airmike* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So, If I can get a factory sealed 34xbr960 w/ Stand for 1860.00 (Shipped & Tax included) Should I do it?
> 
> 
> Thats only 90.00 more than the 34xs955 w/stand package from crutchfield



Pretty hot deal there, my friend. If that's via a legit dealer and warranty is all set and everything, you'd be hard pressed to really do better.


----------



## snatta




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *airmike* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So, If I can get a factory sealed 34xbr960 w/ Stand for 1860.00 (Shipped & Tax included) Should I do it?
> 
> 
> Thats only 90.00 more than the 34xs955 w/stand package from crutchfield



Where did you find this deal on the 34xbr960?


----------



## DI-TECH1

I am on my 4th XBR960 now. I know that sounds a bit crazy, but there were unignorable problems with the first 3 (purple emittance from the corners, dead pixels, etc...) I am a Digital Imaging Technician by trade, so I have a sharp eye for detailed objects moving on a hi-def output monitor, and I know what to look for. So now on the 4th model, there is a problem which I just can't ignore that I did not notice on my previous 3. On all video inputs, when there are a lot of fast moving objects on the screen or when things are zooming in or out or transitions, or sometimes not even that fast moving, there is heavy pixelation going on mostly at the edge of where different objects meet each other. I am using Monster HDMI and component cables, and have noticed it mostly through Hi-Def cable signals and DVD. I am almost positive it is not the source (as the woman at the sony service number told me). I know this wasn't happening on the first couple I had. I have an ISF calibration scheduled for later this month, but I doubt that will fix this problem. Has anyone else had this problem or know what path I should take here as I am on my 4th one? I don't feel like going back for a 5th!! I just want to make sure I am not going crazy!


----------



## kny3twalker

definitely sounds like a source issue IMO as well


but I am having a difficult time understanding what the problem is,

cause pixelization is normally cause of the source or scaler


have you considering buying an external scaler? although expensive, it might be easier than always being unhappywith the picture on the TV


----------



## mr2828

If you don't see it on still scenes, and only when things are moving, it sounds like normal mpeg-2 compression artifacts. Perfectly normal on DVDs and HDTV especially.


Try renting one of those "superbit" DVDs and see if the problem is less. They use a higher bitrate for compression on those DVDs, so the artifacting should be less.


----------



## DI-TECH1

It's just that I didn't seem to notice it on the first 3 models I had, but now I do. I have a pretty close eye for detail. I guess I must be going nuts.


----------



## Leviticus

This pixelation along objects is one of the things im noticing also. It doesnt seem to be source..rather every source. When i pause DVDs and still motion it is readily apparent too. I have a good eye for detail, but im wondering if im expecting way too much from this TV? Is it only meant to be a great picture for TRUE HDTV thru HDMI input? I have also noticed the waviness as an object (airplane) moved from right to left. The plane looked like it was a flag waving....thats just not right.


----------



## Q of BanditZ

I had no idea CRT tubes could have dead pixels.


----------



## david4455




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My ISF calibrator did it for me and yes, it was absolutely worth it.
> 
> 
> The ISF man willl tell you upfront if they're confident in doing the procedure. If they say "yes", go ahead and have them do it. If he says "no", take him at his word.
> 
> 
> If you're under warranty, you might luck out and get a Sony tech who will do this for you for free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Incorrect. My SD never looked as good as it does on the XBR960.



What settings do you have the tv on for SD viewing? Still trying to tweek my picture but could use a reference to start....


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *david4455* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What settings do you have the tv on for SD viewing? Still trying to tweek my picture but could use a reference to start....



Pre ISF calibration, my settings were somewhere along these lines:


Pro and Monitor settings at all times for all things:


Brightness mid 40's or so.

Contrast mid 30's

Hue dead center

Color 31 or near dead center

Color temp = neutral or warm (experiement)

Edge ehancement off


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DI-TECH1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am on my 4th XBR960 now.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else had this problem or know what path I should take here as I am on my 4th one? I don't feel like going back for a 5th!! I just want to make sure I am not going crazy!



Time to move on to a different brand and model. The Sony 960 is not for you.


----------



## redhatyellow

Can someone please post the Service Menu PDF/DOC for the XBR960? Every link I have tried through the search have been dead.


THANKS!


----------



## kny3twalker

here

 

New Folder.zip 64.00390625k . file


----------



## Hawkmoon

Hey all.


I own the 34XBR910 the older brother of the 960. My main use for the set has been video gaming and now with the 360 it is gaming in HI DEF!!!


Anyways, I have had my 910 for 2 years now and still love it, but I am always looking for whatever screen that would make the games look better...


I have read alot about the SXRD. What do you think? Will my 910 out-do the 50" SXRD for gaming?


I am also wondering, since my set is more dated that if upgrading to the 960 from the 910 would be beneficial? Size is not as important and this 34xbr size has been fine for me, but just looking for the best possible picture for gaming.


Thanks!


----------



## baller99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hawkmoon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey all.
> 
> 
> I own the 34XBR910 the older brother of the 960. My main use for the set has been video gaming and now with the 360 it is gaming in HI DEF!!!
> 
> 
> Anyways, I have had my 910 for 2 years now and still love it, but I am always looking for whatever screen that would make the games look better...
> 
> 
> I have read alot about the SXRD. What do you think? Will my 910 out-do the 50" SXRD for gaming?
> 
> 
> I am also wondering, since my set is more dated that if upgrading to the 960 from the 910 would be beneficial? Size is not as important and this 34xbr size has been fine for me, but just looking for the best possible picture for gaming.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



No microdisplay is going to give a better picture than the 910/960 at this point. Your only upgrade is the 960.


----------



## bobhoppel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *baller99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No microdisplay is going to give a better picture than the 910/960 at this point. Your only upgrade is the 960.



That's not true!! I own both a 960(1 1/2 years) and a Qualia 006(8 months). They both have great pictures, but to say one has a better picture is a stretch.


----------



## david4455

Confessions of an obsessive forum reader.....



So I got all "freaked' out at the bowing that everyone was noticing.... I see it on my set too...but frankly if I hadn't been reading this forum I probably wouldn't have noticed. So I called Sony and they authorized a tech ( who is ISF enabled) to come out....Now i am kind of embarrassed that perhaps my service call request is over kill....since everyone is experiencing this bowing....what should I have this guy do? or not do.... I am kind of happy with the picture ...although I wish SD would be better....


should I cancel? ( although it may be too late.....)


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *david4455* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Confessions of an obsessive forum reader.....
> 
> 
> 
> So I got all "freaked' out at the bowing that everyone was noticing.... I see it on my set too...but frankly if I hadn't been reading this forum I probably wouldn't have noticed. So I called Sony and they authorized a tech ( who is ISF enabled) to come out....Now i am kind of embarrassed that perhaps my service call request is over kill....since everyone is experiencing this bowing....what should I have this guy do? or not do.... I am kind of happy with the picture ...although I wish SD would be better....
> 
> 
> should I cancel? ( although it may be too late.....)



You may as well let him come and do whatever he can do. It can't hurt.


----------



## ksnh

I purchased a two month old 960 yesterday from a person who had to leave the country on very short notice (he didn't elaborate; I didn't ask), so I haven't had a lot of research time for peripherals. I'd appreciate whatever first-hand experience and pertinent links that anyone can pass on to me.


I want to buy a single disc DVD player that will allow the 960 to best utilize its performance capabilities without being an over-featured player for my needs. The 960 will be a family TV, playing rented DVD's. I'm fairly observant about picture defects, but not obsessively so. I want to spend less than $175.


I plan to use the 960's HDMI connection for the HD cable box (Cable Card not available until 2007 from my podunk cabe co.), and component connections for the DVD player.


Anyway, I searched here (and there) for reviews/comments on this particlar application, and found a potpourri of opinions and esoteric discourse, but nothing meaty that seemed to pertain specifically to my low-rent request here.


Anyone?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ksnh* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I purchased a two month old 960 yesterday from a person who had to leave the country on very short notice (he didn't elaborate; I didn't ask), so I haven't had a lot of research time for peripherals. I'd appreciate whatever first-hand experience and pertinent links that anyone can pass on to me.
> 
> 
> I want to buy a single disc DVD player that will allow the 960 to best utilize its performance capabilities without being an over-featured player for my needs. The 960 will be a family TV, playing rented DVD's.
> 
> 
> I'm fairly observant about picture defects, but not obsessively so. I want to spend less than $175.



Then you're probably not going to be very happy with what you can buy at $175.


I know Sony put out some new player near the $200 mark that's supposed to be pretty good. There's also that Oppo that everyone's raving about in the DVD player forum.


The Panaosnic s77 or s97 may be other alternatives. I really would encourage you to be somewhat flexible with that $175 budget.





> Quote:
> I plan to use the 960's HDMI connection for the HD cable box (Cable Card not available until 2007 from my podunk cabe co.), and component connections for the DVD player.
> 
> 
> Anyway, I searched here (and there) for reviews/comments on this particlar application, and found a potpourri of opinions and esoteric discourse, but nothing meaty that seemed to pertain specifically to my low-rent request here.
> 
> 
> Anyone?



I think you should get a DVD player that makes use of the HDMI connection for upconverting/upscaling and use component for the cable box.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ksnh* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I purchased a two month old 960 yesterday from a person who had to leave the country on very short notice (he didn't elaborate; I didn't ask), so I haven't had a lot of research time for peripherals. I'd appreciate whatever first-hand experience and pertinent links that anyone can pass on to me.
> 
> 
> I want to buy a single disc DVD player that will allow the 960 to best utilize its performance capabilities without being an over-featured player for my needs. The 960 will be a family TV, playing rented DVD's. I'm fairly observant about picture defects, but not obsessively so. I want to spend less than $175.
> 
> 
> I plan to use the 960's HDMI connection for the HD cable box (Cable Card not available until 2007 from my podunk cabe co.), and component connections for the DVD player.
> 
> 
> Anyway, I searched here (and there) for reviews/comments on this particlar application, and found a potpourri of opinions and esoteric discourse, but nothing meaty that seemed to pertain specifically to my low-rent request here.
> 
> 
> Anyone?



Hi Ksnh,


I don't think you have to worry about finding a quality single disc DVD player for $175. Prices have dropped so much consumers can purchase very good basic players for much less. My brother purchased a new panasonic for $69 so not to overuse his DVD recorder with hard drive - he could not notice any difference in picture quality between the two. Just stick to name brands and reputable dealers.


HDMI is the best connection for video connection and should be used for HDTV (the top quality picture) and component for DVD (our DVD's look gorgeous through component).


----------



## david4455

I apologize in advance because although he told me several times what was wrong...I still did not understand completly....but.... I had a tech out today sent by Sony after complaining about the 'bowing" that I saw when the guide was on the screen as well as the black bars....I didn't know if I was imagining it or not...anyway he came and said Yes there was a problem... that the screen image was bowing by nearly 3/4 of an inch on each side.... he said that this happens when this set is moved ( often improperly) because it is so heavy that things shift inside.... he actually found a few loose parts and that something ( this is where I get a little blurry) had actually moved and that was causing the screen bowing.... he adjusted it ( I saw the word "service menu" on the screen) and it actually is better now!


I asked him how I can improve the SD picture ( he adjusted it a bit with the remote menu but I didn't like it and changed it back after he left....) but he said that your image is only as good as the equiptment and cables that carry it... meaning until I upgrade to a better sat receiver I am stuck with the less than stellar picture from the sat dish.....


----------



## brucku

Hey guys, I've done quite a bit of reading about this tv. (for example, I've ready the first 36pages of this thread) I'm not quite sure I'll get thru all of them. Anyway, Here's my situation.


I know that a 34inch widescreen is the best size for my living space, this is not a concern of mine. I plan to sit about 6 feet from this tv, as I currently do.


What I have now:

1) Zenith Crap 25 inch tv (about 6 years old)

2) ReplayTV box fed by TimeWarner Digital Cable box

3) Sony NS775 DVD player

4) Sony Ps2


I currently watch all inputs thru s-video on this 25 inch tv. It sucks! I have a green upper left corner, and a rounded tube television. (I don't even have anything close to an old wega set)


I am thinking of buying an HDTV for a few reasons. 1 I absolutely love watching dvds. I have a collection of about 300 movies. This widescreen tv will do wonders for my dvd watching especially since I ONLY purchase and watch widescreen films, my viewing size will get HUGE.


I also use my setup for watching television. Right now EVERYTHING i watch comes thru my ReplayTV box, its a 1 generation old 160gb box. It has 480p progressive component output. I would really like to use this box with whatever television I purchase. (I might upgrade to something like an HDTivo in the future, but I'm not certain that I need that now, I also dont want to spend money upgrading that component. I HATE watching stretched broadcast television. Whatever tv I buy, I can guarantee I'd rather not buy a new tv if I will be forced to watch a mis shaped head or lose inches of the top or bottom of the screen of my programing.


One reason I thought the tube is great, is that I can switch it into a 27 inch 4:3 tv.


So to break it down, by purchasing myself an xbr960, I'll be expecting the following.


1) Improved 16:9 picture size and quality of my dvd collection viewing

2) Improved size and quality viewing of my video games (and in future, ability to take advantage of an xbox 360)

3) Improved size and quality of my tv watching (initially on my current replaytv) I would be going from a 25 inch tv to a 27 inch. (I PLAN TO WATCH IN 4:3 MODE)


This may seem crazy, but I can't quite imagine myself watching too much HD programming just yet. Maybe I am crazy, and you can suggest things I might watch in HD, perhaps sopranos in march?????


I guess I can narrow my questions to these


1) Can I really use this set for 4:3 viewing on a regular basis? (if you think no, what is possible repair cost or life till repair is neccesary)

2) Will my current replaytv look better in progressive output @ 27 inches in 4:3 mode on this television than it does right now on my 25 inch craptv in s-video.

3) Should I start convincing myself that this tv will require me to purchase an HDTIVO and an HDCable box and package from TimeWarner


Am I looking at the wrong tv? I REALLY love the idea of a widescreen, I don't want to buy a square HD television. I care more about the size of my movies than the size of my tv shows, especially since at this distance, 25 is a fine size, 27 will be a nice little improvement. And in the future everything will go widescreen. I have thought about just buying a 4:3 wega 36 inch non hd. This is cheaper but won't help me in my goal of getting an xbox 360, nor will my movies be as good looking or large.


I really appreciate any advice you guys can give. Thanks!!


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brucku* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I really appreciate any advice you guys can give. Thanks!!



Buy the TV. Don't worry, be happy.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brucku* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This may seem crazy, but I can't quite imagine myself watching too much HD programming just yet. Maybe I am crazy, and you can suggest things I might watch in HD, perhaps sopranos in march?????



Well, you obviously haven't had a chance to watch much HDTV yet, or else you surely wouldn't have this position.


And you probably haven't visited someone who has a well-adjusted XBR960, else you surely wouldn't have this position. At your mentioned 6 foot viewing distance you will be in heaven with this set (once you get it adjusted properly, either by a Sony tech, and/or a local authorized service tech, and/or eventually yourself). This perfectly flat Trinitron presents the most realistic color I have ever seen anywhere.


I don't know what your viewing habits are, but the vast majority of prime time network shows are now in HDTV, and the late night Leno, Letterman and Conan shows are all in HDTV. Even Saturday Night Live has now moved to HDTV. CSI, Lost, Desperate Housewives, Las Vegas... and lots more of prime time high-quality HDTV. Looks gorgeous.


Most major sporting events (with some notable ridiculous exceptions) are now presented in HDTV. Wait until you see US Open Tennis in HDTV, which is unique because it's essentially stationary outdoor 1080i which means minimal MPEG motion artifacts and crystal clear edges. Wait until you see the Masters golf tournament, where you can see every blade of grass.


HBO-HD and SHO-HD have some terrific shows in supreme quality HD... like "Rome" and "Sopranos" on HBO, "Weeds", "L-Word" and "Sleeper Cell" on SHO, immediately come to mind. These networks have the best quality filmed HD in my opinion, better than network.


And watching DVD's on it is simply spectacular. But for me, I get more pleasure from watching movies in HDTV from HBO-HD and SHO-HD (especially the latter, which shows most movies in OAR).


Buy one fast to be sure you can get it adjusted properly before February, when the Winter Olympics in HDTV arrive. While the HDTV picture quality from Turin will, like with Athens, probably be slightly inferior to what things looked like back in 2002 from Salt Lake City (lot of technical explanations have been given, explaining why this the case), I can assure you that your jaw will drop when you watch indoor and outdoor winter sports in HDTV. The speed skating, on a snow-white ice rink with brilliant white lights in the venue installed specifically for HDTV and gorgeous contrasting bright colors of the skaters' "skins", well it is truly like you're sitting in the stands.


Believe me... you WILL be watching LOTS of HDTV, once you have it.


----------



## david4455

Although I have not done a side by side comparison....so perhaps it is just my imagination.... but the PQ I get with the 960 with my dish satellite does not seem as good as my old mitsubishi TV it replaced.....I have read this forum and tried using many of your setting recommendations...it helped.... but I still feel there is not a clarity in lines and and lot of "rubbish" in solid areas...( don't know how to describe all the little twitters and movement I see).


I know this TV is made for HDTV but shouldn't a CRT TV that cost $1600+ give us a drop dead picture with SD as well?


I guess my question is why is the SD PQ ( via my satellite) not great on this TV?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *david4455* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I guess my question is why is the SD PQ ( via my satellite) not great on this TV?



Please provide more info...


Are you using S-video from your Dish receiver?


What are all of your user menu settings for that SD input?


Are you using DRC? If so, what mode and/or settings?


Have you had a visit from a Sony service tech? If so, what did he do?


Have you been into the service menu, to perform your own tweaks? If so, have you generally adjusted (a) geometry, (b) brightness, (c) color, (d) picture, in an attempt to improve SD display?


How does HD look on your set?


----------



## david4455

Thanks! for your interest......Answers are right after your questions....



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Please provide more info...
> 
> 
> Are you using S-video from your Dish receiver? YES
> 
> 
> What are all of your user menu settings for that SD input?
> 
> Pro
> 
> Picture: 38
> 
> Bright:54
> 
> Color:39
> 
> Hue:0
> 
> Sharp:17
> 
> Temp: cool
> 
> Clear edge:high
> 
> 
> 
> Are you using DRC? If so, what mode and/or settings?
> 
> 
> interlaced
> 
> Reality:55
> 
> Clarity: 50
> 
> 
> Have you had a visit from a Sony service tech? If so, what did he do?
> 
> 
> Yes... he came yesterday and adjusted what I thought was a bad bowing....
> 
> 
> Have you been into the service menu, to perform your own tweaks? If so, have you generally adjusted (a) geometry, (b) brightness, (c) color, (d) picture, in an attempt to improve SD display?
> 
> 
> afraid too
> 
> 
> How does HD look on your set?
> 
> amazing....



What do you think?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *david4455* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks! for your interest......Answers are right after your questions....
> 
> 
> What do you think?



Well, first, I'm glad that HD looks terrific since that's what this set is really about.


But as far as SD, I must say that my settings are considerably different from yours. I get my SD from DirectTV, and also feed my INPUT1 via S-video. So we probably should both be seeing very similar high-quality SD.


I realize everybody's tastes are different, and every CRT set is also probably different (unlike LCD/PLASMA/DLP which all seem to be clones and identical). The fact that your Sony tech did something immediately makes it different from mine. The fact that I've been into the service menu and you haven't immediately makes yours different from mine... not just in geometry but in picture characteristics as well.


Anyway, just for reference (and I am VERY happy with the way my SD from D* looks), here are my settings for INPUT1 (slightly different for INPUT3 where I have my off-air antenna input):


Pro

Picture = 39

Brightness = 33

Color = 34

Hue = 0

Sharpness = 21

Color temp = cool

ClearEdge VM = off

DRC = progressive

DRC palette = Custom 1 (which is still the Sony default of reality=25, clarity=1)

Color axis = default


I have done a great deal of tweaking in the service menu to fix convergence and geometry, including overscan, image size/positioning, horizontal/vertical/corner linearity, etc. Many of these affect how 4:3 SD looks as well as 16:9 HD. These adjustments were made initially using the Digital Video Essentials test patterns (meaning using a 480p DVD), but subsequently I used DisplayMate for Windows Video Edition running on my PC connected to the XBR960 via component video (from my ATI Radeon 9800 Pro, at 1080i). I did not adjust anything while looking at SD on 480i.


But I've done almost nothing to the picture controls in the service menu, other than the four major items affecting red-push. I've adjusted nothing here affecting brightness, gray-scale, color, etc. Color, brightness, contrast, etc. were adjusted solely in the user menu realm, again using Digital Video Essentials at 480p... on my INPUT5 which is where I have my DVD player connected. I then copied over to INPUT6, INPUT7 and iLink (where I watch my HD 720p and 1080i sources) and fine-tuned as seemed appropriate using "ordinary content" such as Leno whose colors etc. I adjusted ever so slightly (if at all) to my liking.


----------



## mr2828




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *david4455* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Although I have not done a side by side comparison....so perhaps it is just my imagination.... but the PQ I get with the 960 with my dish satellite does not seem as good as my old mitsubishi TV it replaced.....I have read this forum and tried using many of your setting recommendations...it helped.... but I still feel there is not a clarity in lines and and lot of "rubbish" in solid areas...( don't know how to describe all the little twitters and movement I see).
> 
> 
> I know this TV is made for HDTV but shouldn't a CRT TV that cost $1600+ give us a drop dead picture with SD as well?
> 
> 
> I guess my question is why is the SD PQ ( via my satellite) not great on this TV?




David I had Dish Network for around 8 years.


When I got my 960, it had to go.


The reason is that as you can now well see, Dish Network overcompresses its SD channels pretty horribly. The blobs, smearing facial features, twittering pixels, and macroblocking when fast movement occurs.


I was forced to switch to Comcast. Comcast also provides full bitrate HD, whereas Dish now is joing DirecTV in downrezzing HD content into "HD lite".


No amount of tweaking settings on your TV will fix this. You simply need better source content.


----------



## david4455




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr2828* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> David I had Dish Network for around 8 years.
> 
> 
> When I got my 960, it had to go.
> 
> 
> The reason is that as you can now well see, Dish Network overcompresses its SD channels pretty horribly. The blobs, smearing facial features, twittering pixels, and macroblocking when fast movement occurs.
> 
> 
> I was forced to switch to Comcast. Comcast also provides full bitrate HD, whereas Dish now is joing DirecTV in downrezzing HD content into "HD lite".
> 
> 
> No amount of tweaking settings on your TV will fix this. You simply need better source content.



Are you happy with the results of switching to Comcast with the SD PQ as well as the HD picture? I don't mind giving up Dish ( I too have been with them for 6 or 7 years) if I can get a better quality picture on teh non HD images....


----------



## sphinx99

Hi! I am looking into buying this set and had a couple of questions.


First, about its effective resolution; I did search and read about 25% of this thread and did not find the answer. I would want to be able to drive this with a HTPC from time to time (using a DVI-to-HDMI cable.) I wanted to get an idea of what the "effective" resolution for this set should be, i.e. what can I expect it to display clearly.


Second, what I'm looking for is something of a "reference" set for the next few years. I have a Sony Artisan CRT that has filled this need but I got it cheap, as a refurb with some damage, and it's slowly starting to go. However I have never worked with a display device as sensitive and accurate as the Artisan. I don't expect the XBR960 to necessarily meet that lofty height, however for any of you who may be familiar with the Artisan, would the XBR come close?


----------



## Dr. Spankenstein

First time posting, so here I go.

I have purchased a new KD-34xs955. This after going through 3 returns on a Samsung Slimfit 30". (Whole other story!) Anyhoo, this is actually my 2nd 955, as the first one had a sizable "magnetized" area in the upper left corner which did not clear up after a number of powering cycles. The picture was awesome, but frequently pixelated at the edges of high contrast and/or small detail items. The geometry was great (especially compared to the Sammy!) Then, I decided, I would exchange for another and things are now worse. Let me explain.

Firstly, I am using my XBOX 360 as my progressive DVD player connected though the component inputs. I did some elementary adjustments using the THX Optimizer on whatever PIXAR film was at hand. No problem. The new monitor is having some real problems displaying the same test material, namely the Brightness test (with the drop shadow). It looks HORRIBLE! Not only is there no drop shadow displayed, but there are pixelated artefacts all over the place. There is terrible amounts of "ringing"/"ghosting" around every high contrast or small objects edges. I have reduced Sharpness to MIN, I've shut down the VM in the 2170P-3 group and NOTHING. Obviously I see these artifacts in my SD material but the HD looks like poo, too! And, something has changed in the User Menu. In the first set, the COLOR slider showed that you were going from higher/lower color saturation, now it is a solid yellow slider like the rest. What gives?

Was I better off with the magnetized screen?










Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## mr2828




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *david4455* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are you happy with the results of switching to Comcast with the SD PQ as well as the HD picture? I don't mind giving up Dish ( I too have been with them for 6 or 7 years) if I can get a better quality picture on teh non HD images....



The thing with cable tv, is that it varies from city to city.


I'm happier with SD on my local Comcast than I was with Dish, but it is nowhere near perfect. There are still some analog channels that they are in the process of converting to digital, which should happen in the next few months in this area here. The existing digital SD channels are pretty universally better looking than what I was experiencing with Dish when I gave up on them last year, but they aren't the "DVD quality" type picture that I had with Dish 8 years ago before they degraded everything.


There are threads in the hdtv forum for most local cable areas, so I would ask in your area there what people think.


----------



## david4455

 http://www.highdefforum.com/showthre...5&page=1&pp=10 


Not sure there is a solution...but... it helped understand the source of the problem....


----------



## mr2828

If cable is an option where you live, you might want to give it a shot for a week. The good thing is there is no long term contract, and the set top DVRs are either free or rentable. If you don't have a HD DVR with Dish, and don't want to spend the $$$ on one, this can save money. Also if you decide to stick with it, you may get a deal - Comcast gives me $40 off per month for 16 months or so. Maybe in late 2006 I'll switch back to satellite if they are better quality than now.


----------



## MykeeD

I have two Sony 34XBR960s purchased in Dec. 2004. Cable company is Cox Communications. One TV is hooked up to a Motorola HD DVR while the other TV has a CableCard. CableCard TV...no issues as of yet. The TV hooked up to the HD DVR is having Screen Mode problems which started last week. On SD broadcasts on any channel, the TV keeps switching screen modes...Full, Zoom, Wide Zoom, Normal, etc. on its own while viewing. On the Screen Menu the 4:3 default is set to "off" while the Screen Mode default is set to "Normal"...but it will not stay on that setting.


Anyone else have this problem???...can't search 95 pages of thread here at work.


Is this a Sony TV tuner problem or a STB signal noise problem?


Get Cox to switch the box -or- get an Authorized Sony Tech to check out the set???


----------



## crosstuningforks

I just had Insight cable install HDTV, and now have had a few days to play with my new 960 and HD. I can already see differences in program/signal quality on the various HD channels. What's funny is that the whole family is watching programs that we would never watch before, simply because it is offered in HD.


Anyhow...on to my main topic. I am planning on having my set ISF calibrated by Chad Billheimer (HDTVbychadB). Does anybody out there have experience with him calibrating your 960? If not, how about others who have had their 960's calibrated...what are your impressions of having it done? Any first-hand experiences would be appreciated.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *crosstuningforks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just had Insight cable install HDTV, and now have had a few days to play with my new 960 and HD. I can already see differences in program/signal quality on the various HD channels. What's funny is that the whole family is watching programs that we would never watch before, simply because it is offered in HD.
> 
> 
> Anyhow...on to my main topic. I am planning on having my set ISF calibrated by Chad Billheimer (HDTVbychadB). Does anybody out there have experience with him calibrating your 960? If not, how about others who have had their 960's calibrated...what are your impressions of having it done? Any first-hand experiences would be appreciated.



I've been pimping Chad quite shamelessly for months. Short version: You're in for a real amazing and thorough experience from a hell of a guy.


Long version:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=561596


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi all,


Remember to check your cablebox to be sure all signal types are passed onto your 960.


I did this upon receiving the 960 in August but was concerned fiddling with general settings might have thrown it off. Turning off the box to raise the special HD set-up I suddenly found a second, more advanced test to use. This time I was sure all signals from 420I to 1080P (I think those are the terms) were being fed into the set.


Obviously I did not have the cable box properly set and what a surprise! Now, the output is indicated on screen (1080P, etc.) whenever there is a change in signal. Wide zoom can be applied to non-HD signals through the HDMI (and automatically returns to full when it senses a HD signal). And, most importantly, when we thought it was impossible to exhibit a better picture than the 960 was already was providing, HD and digital became even more razor sharp and vibrant than before (it's almost like upgrading to a non-existant 961 LOL).


So those of us non-technical owners should remember to adjust the cable box so it can pass the highest quality signal onto your 960. It does make some difference.


----------



## kocheez75

(may be a stupid question, but im too lazy to look it up)


does sony make any 42" xbr Rear projection tvs? Thanks


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kocheez75* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> (may be a stupid question, but im too lazy to look it up)
> 
> 
> does sony make any 42" xbr Rear projection tvs? Thanks



No I belive that the 50" SXRD sets are the smallest. They do make a 42" A10, but not XBR. Crutchfield has the most logical layout of sets. Filter based on type and then limit to Sony.


----------



## Spokker

I called to get a second opinion on my set and they sent out THE SAME DAMN GUY THAT CAME OUT LAST TIME.


Why is it so hard to find a guy that knows about geometry and convergence issues?


----------



## Sam Johnson

I just found this thread. Have searched for mention of this problem but found nothing on it, so here goes:


Purchased my 960 11/04 and have been extremely pleased with it until recently. About 5-6 weeks ago, began experiencing severely degraded picture quality upon first power-up in the morning (wavy vertical lines and much interference, as if receiving a weak station over antenna -- but I'm on cable.) Present on all channels. Power off, then on again and problem is gone. No trace of similar problems simultaneously on any other TVs. About the same time this started, I thought the degausser was louder than usual at power on. When I power off/power on to clear the problem, degausser is much, much quieter than it was at initial power-on. For several weeks, this only happened at the first power-on of the day. Lately, it has happened occasionally at subsequent power-ons. Have checked the diagnostic screen and it shows all zeros (i.e., no problems noted). Anyone else have this problem? Would appreciate any suggestions before calling in the tech. Thanks.


----------



## germ79

Sam, do you have the TV plugged into a surge protector? As strange as it sounds, Sony recommends NOT having the TV plugged into anything except the wall outlet. According to them, the TV requires a constant amount of power and sometimes surge protectors limit the power and don't allow the TV to get all it needs. I've heard this can mess with the degaussing at power-up. Hope this helps.


Jeremy


----------



## Sam Johnson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *germ79* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sam, do you have the TV plugged into a surge protector? As strange as it sounds, Sony recommends NOT having the TV plugged into anything except the wall outlet. According to them, the TV requires a constant amount of power and sometimes surge protectors limit the power and don't allow the TV to get all it needs. I've heard this can mess with the degaussing at power-up. Hope this helps.
> 
> 
> Jeremy



Thanks, Jeremy. I do have it plugged into a surge protector. I'll see if it improves by removing it.


Sam


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spokker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I called to get a second opinion on my set and they sent out THE SAME DAMN GUY THAT CAME OUT LAST TIME.
> 
> 
> Why is it so hard to find a guy that knows about geometry and convergence issues?




That's why I just skipped right to an ISF calibration so I could get it all done right the first time without any angst or guesswork.


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sam Johnson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks, Jeremy. I do have it plugged into a surge protector. I'll see if it improves by removing it.
> 
> 
> Sam



I was getting some degaussing issues when I first got the set as well. Changed from the surge protector to the cable box and haven't had any problems since (the cable box powers on and then the TV after a delay). Technically nothing has changed as the cable box is plugged into the surge protector, but perhaps the cable box having a full power on before the TV helps? Dunno, but it has worked so far (about a month).


I think there is some talk about 5 pages up about UPS delivering the best of both worlds (protection and full degaussing). Just use "Search this thread" and query "UPS".


----------



## ironfoot995

I haven't looked very far back into this massive thread, and this question may have been asked before: Is there any difference between the 960 and the 960N? It appears that the 960 is in a silver case and the 960N is in a black case. Is that true and if so is that the only difference? I'm getting really close to pulling the trigger on this.


John


----------



## germ79

The "N" is the newer model that has the somewhat problematic anti-glare feature removed. According to Sony, they had MANY complaints about the original anti-glare coating or cover and have since removed it.


Jeremy


----------



## ironfoot995

Thanks, Jeremy. It's interesting that the "N" costs less than the older 960 at some Internet dealers.


John


----------



## Sam Johnson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was getting some degaussing issues when I first got the set as well. Changed from the surge protector to the cable box and haven't had any problems since (the cable box powers on and then the TV after a delay). Technically nothing has changed as the cable box is plugged into the surge protector, but perhaps the cable box having a full power on before the TV helps? Dunno, but it has worked so far (about a month).
> 
> 
> I think there is some talk about 5 pages up about UPS delivering the best of both worlds (protection and full degaussing). Just use "Search this thread" and query "UPS".




Well, I plugged the 960 directly into the wall socket. The first time I turned it on after being off for a couple of hours the problem still occurred. I'll see if it improves over time, but I'm not expecting it to do so. Wonder if some permanent damage has been done? Thanks for the suggestion, anyway, and I guess I'll keep it off the surge supressor regardless of whether it fixes the problem.


----------



## TheFount

So... aren't widescreen DVDs supposed to take up the entire 960 screen? Because mine aren't.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheFount* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So... aren't widescreen DVDs supposed to take up the entire 960 screen? Because mine aren't.



Different theaterical ratios? 2:35:1? Etc.?


You don't know this?


----------



## tjpark1111

can anyone tell me what picture settings people are using for the best PQ(34xs955)? I'm gonna compare the Panasonic and the Sony head-to-head at CC and purchase but don't want to bottleneck either one from crappy factory defaults.


----------



## tjpark1111




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheFount* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So... aren't widescreen DVDs supposed to take up the entire 960 screen? Because mine aren't.



it happens on any widescreen tv if you dont set it in the dvd player. While you're playing or with no dvd in the player, go to the menu or settings and there should be an option for aspect ratio, set that to 16:9 widescreen and it should work.


----------



## baller99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheFount* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So... aren't widescreen DVDs supposed to take up the entire 960 screen? Because mine aren't.



You have never noticed that some films are filmed wider than others while your tv remains the same?


----------



## Gouki

Hey everyone. While moving into my new apartment, the idea came up that it would be desirable to take my 960 out of the box to navigate the stairs. Needless to say this was not sucessful and my 960 ended up resting on the concrete stairs a few times. So now both front corners have the equivalent of curb rash and the whole bottom front panel is torn up. Any suggestions on how to fix this, ie replacement parts, creative mending techniques, ect? And yes, it is very noticeable, as I have the Sony stand and the feet are not flush with the stand. I know it's only a tv, but this is my first XBR and it kinda breaks my heart to see it like this.


Thanks!


----------



## Q of BanditZ

It doesn't help with stairs, but look up a product like "Super Sliders from Waxman."

http://www.waxman.com/surfaceprotectionproducts.htm 



These are pads of sorts that you put underneath furniture and you can literally slide and move that furniture around with great ease, all by yourself.


I can't tell you how many times these have already bailed me out. When I had my carpets changed a month ago, where my XBR960 is, the job was done in a jiffy, thanks to these things.


I moved the XBR960, on its stand, in it entirety, by myself with ease, simply by slipping one of these under each of the four corners of the furniture, and sliding it all into another room.


They almost work too well. I moved a queen sized bed across the room, fully assembled, simply by using the above method. That thing practically flew across the room on these things.




I can't recommend a product like this enough to EVERYONE.


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sam Johnson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I plugged the 960 directly into the wall socket. The first time I turned it on after being off for a couple of hours the problem still occurred. I'll see if it improves over time, but I'm not expecting it to do so. Wonder if some permanent damage has been done? Thanks for the suggestion, anyway, and I guess I'll keep it off the surge supressor regardless of whether it fixes the problem.



Personally, I'd be nervous about plugging anything expensive right into the wall. If I remember correctly the prices of the UPS units were not much worse than a good surge protector. Best bet would be to PM one of the people that own them and see if they respond. If unplugging it > 5min. doesn't do the trick, it sounds like you are still w/i the 2 year warranty, so perhaps just have a tech take a look. Whatever the case, good luck.


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheFount* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So... aren't widescreen DVDs supposed to take up the entire 960 screen? Because mine aren't.



Hi Fount. This page may be helpful to you: http://www.highdefforum.com/showthread.php?t=4705


----------



## Shadowx117

Wow this forum looks to be awsome, isn't it amazing that there are great forums for just about everything these days? Well Let me just say that I am expecting to get this TV sometime around christmas and am excited to see all of the positive things. Besides screen size, bulk, weight and factory defects are there any other problems or down sides with this set? Also as I bet many of you know the Xbox360 is out now and hopefully I will have mine soon. Now how do you people think it will look on this set? Has anyone tried it? I was under the impression that CRT's had faster refresh rates than LCD's and such but I just heard that LCD's have 60 fps while CRT's have 30, well who is right? Thank you in advance and let me just say this is so far from what I can see a wonderful forum with wonderful members and please post any kind of helpful response, the longer the better thank you again.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shadowx117* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wow this forum looks to be awsome, isn't it amazing that there are great forums for just about everything these days? Well Let me just say that I am expecting to get this TV sometime around christmas and am excited to see all of the positive things. Besides screen size, bulk, weight and factory defects are there any other problems or down sides with this set? Also as I bet many of you know the Xbox360 is out now and hopefully I will have mine soon. Now how do you people think it will look on this set? Has anyone tried it? I was under the impression that CRT's had faster refresh rates than LCD's and such but I just heard that LCD's have 60 fps while CRT's have 30, well who is right? Thank you in advance and let me just say this is so far from what I can see a wonderful forum with wonderful members and please post any kind of helpful response, the longer the better thank you again.




I have the Xbox360 set at 1080i and it looks amazing on this set. You'd be hard pressed to do appreciably better without spending thousands of dollars more.


----------



## Shadowx117

LOL thank you again bandit. Again why would you not set your xbox to 720p? How would that make it look worse?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shadowx117* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> LOL thank you again bandit. Again why would you not set your xbox to 720p? How would that make it look worse?



No.


In fact, I still switch back and forth on occasion just for grins.


But since this set natively goes to 1080i, I figure eliminating any conversion process is probably the best way to go.


You may find that you prefer throwing the Xbox360 to 720p. It can do it very well both ways.


It's real close!


----------



## tjpark1111

will anyone care to answer my question??? what image settings are you guys using for the 34xs955/34xbr960?


----------



## GLX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tjpark1111* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> it happens on any widescreen tv if you dont set it in the dvd player. While you're playing or with no dvd in the player, go to the menu or settings and there should be an option for aspect ratio, set that to 16:9 widescreen and it should work.



Not with movies that have been filmed in a 2:35:1 aspect ratio. There are no ways of eliminating black bars with 2:35:1 movies even on 16:9 widescreen TV's (unless you zoom in on the picture). Now 1.85:1 is a different matter and should fill the screen of all widescreen TV's completely.


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> Now 1.85:1 is a different matter and should fill the screen of all widescreen TV's completely.



but this is only so cause of overscan, if you eliminated overscan through the Service Menu, you will get black bars on 1.85:1 movies as well, cause 16:9 TVs are 1.78:1


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tjpark1111* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> will anyone care to answer my question??? what image settings are you guys using for the 34xs955/34xbr960?



Search the thread, there are quite a few posts with image settings.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Personally, I'd be nervous about plugging anything expensive right into the wall. If I remember correctly the prices of the UPS units were not much worse than a good surge protector. Best bet would be to PM one of the people that own them and see if they respond. If unplugging it > 5min. doesn't do the trick, it sounds like you are still w/i the 2 year warranty, so perhaps just have a tech take a look. Whatever the case, good luck.



Actually, the advice was given to me by a Sony service representative. At first I did not understand the logic either, however, by reviewing past threads you'll see the reason regards the amount of initial power required to start the set; surge protectors do not immediately provide 100% power needed by the 960 for automatic de-gaussing when first being turned on.


----------



## FIVE ONE SIX

i don't know if this was mentioned here or not, since this thread is pretty long and i just came across it, but does anyone here using the Sony DVPNS70H upconverting dvd player with this tv notice a shift on the top of the screen when you set the dvd player to 1080i?


i'm trying out the A10, and there's a half inch or so shift on the top of the screen when i set the dvd player to 1080i, and it almost disappears when i set the dvd player to 720p. i know there was a thread about the shift, but i thought i would check here, since from what i've read it can only be seen on certian model tv's. the A10 is one of them, and this was my second choice (that may become my first choice after seeing the lack of black levels on the A10) and i was curious if this tv was subject to that shift bug or not. i've heard excellent things about that dvd player, and my main purpose for the tv is dvd's and HD sports channels...


also, a quick question, how's SD on this set? i know SD looks less than stellar on Plasma's and DLP's and LCD's, but does the fact that this is a tube tv mean that SD wil look the same as it did on my SD 36" Sony Wega, or will it look worse because it's a HD monitor?


----------



## tjpark1111




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Search the thread, there are quite a few posts with image settings.



lmfao look thru 100 pages of posts? i think i have a life.


----------



## njt




Joseph Dubin said:


> Actually, the advice was given to me by a Sony service representative. At first I did not understand the logic either,
> 
> 
> 
> Oh my, I wasn't questioning the source or logic behind your post... certainly hope it didn't come across that way. I was only pointing him to the discussion on pages 79-82 of this thread, which explain the issue in detail... and different solutions used. Personally, *I* would not plug anything expensive directly into the wall, but that was not meant to question that someone from Sony didn't say that to you. I suppose if the issue persisted for me I would opt for the UPS or power conditioner solutions mentioned in those posts.
Click to expand...


----------



## PhilipO38

Hello all, i purchased this set about three weeks back and it's picture quality is astounding using the Xbox360 and cable HD broadcasts.. but i'm sure many of you already know this.


My question to all here is:


Does this set display 720p native, because when i set my X360 for 720p in the 360's display menu, it seems like it actually is displaying it native. (i was thinking this is not possible, but this set does say 1400 lines of resolution, so i'm thinking 720p is not impossible here)


Or is it simply upconverting it to 1080i without my knowing of it?


Also, if it is upconverting it to 1080i, whould i set it for this Sony to upconvert a 720p X360 game, or set the XBox 360 to output in 1080i?


And yes, Iv'e tried both, and it while the PQ seems about identicle, it really seems like there are more jaggies when set to 720p, compared to 1080i. (or maybe i'm seeing things that are not there..lol)


TIA


----------



## mr2828

Yes it upconverts all HD to 1080i.


Seeing less jaggies in that xbox mode would make sense because the total resolution is 1920 x 1080 vs. 1280 x 720 for 720p. Of course though the 1080i resolution is split over two successive fields of an interlaced display.


I haven't gotten a 360 yet, but I hope to early next year, and I think I will use the 1080i mode of it as long as it doesn't seem to negatively affect game frame rates.


----------



## guvadc

I am new to these boards and have owned my XBR960 since september. I recently read posts on how to reduce the overscan on my tv and pretty much followed it to the letter by first adjusting the "raster" then the picure and now notice that the right side of my screen there is a 1 inch vertical strip that is lighter than the rest of the picure. I really only notice it when there is a black screen and the brightness is turned up. It also seems to be tied into the HPOS setting in that it will disappear the higher I adjust but then that defeats the whole purpose of eliminating the overscan.


Has anyone else experienced this? I this a normal when adjusting the overscan and will it go away over time? If it is a defect in the tv will it be covered under the warranty and will they cover the warranty if I have been into the service menu?


Any help and advice on this issue is greatly appreciated.


----------



## Jamie_B

Hey All,


I've had my 960 for about 2 months and so far I am thrilled with quality of this display. I am having on issue though. If I shut the set off while watching one of the Video inputs, when I turn the set back on, my tuner can find no signal. I have to shut the set off while the Tuner is the active source and then when I turn it back on again, the Tuner works fine. This doesn't happen all the time, but it does it seems to happen all the time when the set is shut off all night, for 6 hours or so. Is this something that I should have looked at or is this "normal"??


Also, one last question. It seems as if this set needs to warm up for for a 1/2 hour or so when it's first powered up before the picture really gets "dialed" in. Is this something that will go away after the sets broke in or is it always going to be like this? or should it never be like this??


Thanks


Jamie B


----------



## mr2828

Was your set manufactured quite a long time ago? (look on the back of it for the date). I recall waaay back at the beginning of this thread there was some people who had "cold tuner" issues. There was some fix for it, but I don't recall. You'll have to go back and find it.


Regarding dialing in - my set doesn't look any different after being on 30 seconds as it does an hour later.


----------



## Jamie_B

A manufacture date of november 2004 - Which I was kind of surprised at considering I bought this at ABT in oct of 2005. Is that considered one of the older sets that had issues with the tuners??


----------



## mr2828

It could be, I don't remember that well. You'll have to go searching or looking through the early posts on this thread from last year.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




njt said:


> Joseph Dubin said:
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, the advice was given to me by a Sony service representative. At first I did not understand the logic either,
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Oh my, I wasn't questioning the source or logic behind your post... certainly hope it didn't come across that way. I was only pointing him to the discussion on pages 79-82 of this thread, which explain the issue in detail... and different solutions used. Personally, *I* would not plug anything expensive directly into the wall, but that was not meant to question that someone from Sony didn't say that to you. I suppose if the issue persisted for me I would opt for the UPS or power conditioner solutions mentioned in those posts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi NJT,
> 
> 
> Please don't worry - it never even occured to me that your comment could be taken as disrepectful especially since we've replied to each other before. I just wanted those new to the forum to know Sony was the source of my information.
> 
> 
> On another subject, it was just my luck that a cateract hampering my vision developed the same time I got my 960! It's being removed on Monday which means I won't have to keep one eye closed for optimin viewing anymore. Just hope after all the tweaking I don't find my settings were based on poor vision and are now all wrong LOL!
> 
> 
> Take care,
> 
> Joe
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## FIVE ONE SIX

quick question about geometry issues...


i just purchased 2 Sony A10's, one 50" and one 42", and i noticed that 4:3 images look completely different on both of them. i just powered up the 42" today, for the first time, and the bars on the left side are curved compared to the 50" that i've been using for a few weeks. it's more noticable on the left side, and is really dissapointing overall, to the point that i plan on returning the set since i do watch some 4:3 broadcasts and prefer not to stretch them out. the bars on the 50" go about 1/8" outward, from top to bottom, but there's no curve and it's much less noticable. the bad news is that i plan on returning the 50", because i feel it's too big for my room, and the 42" was supposed to replace it. after seeing the geometry issues with it though, that's not going to happen, and honestly i'm quite dissapointed after seeing such poor performance from a tv that got such good reviews. the 16:9 HD image is excellent, but the 4:3 image is horrible, and to me that's just as important as the 16:9 HD image...


i know these aren't the projection forums, and this isn't the A10 thread, but the reason for my post is that i've heard that geometry issues like that (straight bars, that are actually centered and straight) are usually an issue with projection tv's...


my question is this also an issue with tube tv's? my second choice is this tv, and even though i sit about 11' away, the small size of the tv isn't an issue. i know the source may sometimes be the culprit, but i also measured the 42" with a 4:3 dvd, and the set was just as bad. i've heard the Samsung Slimfit has horrible 4:3 geometry issues, which is what made me second guess my question, since that's a tube tv. that's why i decided to ask it here, and any help would be greatly appreciated...


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *FIVE ONE SIX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> bars on the left side are curved compared to the 50" that i've been using for a few weeks. it's more noticable on the left side, and is really dissapointing overall, to the point that i plan on returning the set since i do watch some 4:3 broadcasts and prefer not to stretch them out. the bars on the 50" go about 1/8" outward, from top to bottom, but there's no curve and it's much less noticable.
> 
> 
> my question is this also an issue with tube tv's?



Geometry in general is a problem with all CRT devices, including computer monitors.


But that's what service menu items are for... to adjust these things. Computer CRT monitors have them, and all Sony CRT's have them.


Vertical (and even horizontal) curvature like you're describing would most likely be addressed mainly by the "pincushion" set of adjustments in both the horizontal and vertical directions. The Sony CRT family provides a whole family of pincushion tweaks, for upper/lower/left/right and even middle-of-the-line locations. There are also complementary adjustments for trapezoid, both (a) horizontal and (b) middle horizontal. Throw in corner linearity adjustments, skew corrections, vertical line angle linearity adjustments, and you really should be able to make straight lines look like straight lines and right angles look like right angles, all over the screen... not just in the corners.


I don't know anything about non-CRT's but the way a set appears when it first comes out of the box does not necessarily speak to what it should (or can) look like once properly adjusted. Now as to why it doesn't leave the factory properly adjusted in the first place... well that'a very good question.


----------



## ragingd

Im new to adjusting overscan on my tv. I have the 34xbr910. Should I follow the excel spreadsheet 34xbr910 calibration? And use the adjustments that are in there. Thanks for any advice.


----------



## PhilipO38

Guys i'm confused here, because i just read this old review of the XBR910:

http://reviews.cnet.com/Sony_KV_34XB...0536650-5.html 



> Quote:
> Performance of Sony KV-34XBR910
> 
> The 910 sets a new overall performance benchmark for wide-screen direct-view HDTVs. The big news is the resolution of the new Super Fine Pitch screen: 1,401 horizontal lines, according to Sony. The 910 still can't display every pixel of true 1,920x1,080 (1080i) high-definition TV, but it comes far closer than any other direct-view tube we've tested.




I did'nt know HDTV's of the CRT type cannot display the whole 1920 lines, and besides the XBR910 and XBR960 handling 1400, so CNET is saying the most the other sets can only handle is 1000?


Is this true?


And if it's true, do LCD's display the full 1280 lines across while most CRT's only can handle 1000(or so)? [except the Sony XBR line)


One last thing, say i'm running my Xbox 360 in 720p and it's upconverted to 1080i, will this XBR960 use all 1400 lines across for the image display?


And how does this compare to LCD's that can handle native 720, where 1280 lines are displayed in full?


One last thing, i was holiday shopping this weekend, and those Samsung LCD's hooked up to the Xbox 360 display's looked extremely sharp..actually sharper then the XBR960. Is this because it displays native 720p and the XBR upconverts to 1080i, and even though i has 1400 lines..are they all being used in the upconverting?


I'll say one thing about that LCD(and most other LCD's), is the HDTV image quality was not as sharp as the XBR960, in looking at all the display HDTV's at C. City, and for the 360 display there was noticable blurring and not as sharp detail really up close the colors seemed to blend with each other.


TIA, i know this is one long reply, but this 1400 line thing kinda shocked me.


btw: I'm wondering if getting a VGA adapter for the 360 will offer better image quality in 720p compared to 1080i on this XBR960?


----------



## Kristopher79




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PhilipO38* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I did'nt know HDTV's of the CRT type cannot display the whole 1920 lines, and besides the XBR910 and XBR960 handling 1400, so CNET is saying the most the other sets can only handle is 1000?
> 
> 
> Is this true?
> 
> 
> And if it's true, do LCD's display the full 1280 lines across while most CRT's only can handle 1000(or so)? [except the Sony XBR line)
> 
> 
> One last thing, say i'm running my Xbox 360 in 720p and it's upconverted to 1080i, will this XBR960 use all 1400 lines across for the image display?
> 
> 
> And how does this compare to LCD's that can handle native 720, where 1280 lines are displayed in full?
> 
> 
> One last thing, i was holiday shopping this weekend, and those Samsung LCD's hooked up to the Xbox 360 display's looked extremely sharp..actually sharper then the XBR960. Is this because it displays native 720p and the XBR upconverts to 1080i, and even though i has 1400 lines..are they all being used in the upconverting?
> 
> 
> I'll say one thing about that LCD(and most other LCD's), is the HDTV image quality was not as sharp as the XBR960, in looking at all the display HDTV's at C. City, and for the 360 display there was noticable blurring and not as sharp detail really up close the colors seemed to blend with each other.
> 
> 
> TIA, i know this is one long reply, but this 1400 line thing kinda shocked me.
> 
> 
> btw: I'm wondering if getting a VGA adapter for the 360 will offer better image quality in 720p compared to 1080i on this XBR960?



Okay that was too many repeated questions in which I'm not sure if I can handle but I'll tell you this much...


The Sony XBR handles Xbox 360 via component with the 360 set 720p perfectly. Let the tv do the scaling since you figure, it's better than some $400 gaming console. Also, if you hook up a 360 to an LCD using VGA...Lookout!! It's alot better than component. Much much more vivid and pristine. Call of Duty 2 is great with component but jaw-dropping with VGA (as I have tested both on a Bravia LCD). Don't believe me just see for yourself if and when you get the chance. So VGA would be the ULTIMATE connection for your 360. No questions asked.


----------



## Kristopher79

Also, don't let the 1400 line thing shock you. Never fear higher resolution.


If your eyes tells you that the Samsung LCD is sharper than the 960 for gaming then you know what to get. Your right that the Samsung pales in comparison to the 960 as far as hdtv goes. The 960 is what I like to call, pure VIDEO NIRVANA. King Kong will never in probably 2 years from now look any better than on a 960. Upcoming winter olympics will reign king on the 960 and all the lcd's and plasmas just won't keep up. Gaming might be another story. I still think the 960 is top tier for gaming but some think an LCD is sharper. Me personally get sick of all the motion blur and unrealistic images. I played King Kong briefly on the Samsung LCD and the jungle looked fake. Usually I would say this is not a bad thing while watching hdtv but for gaming....No! The 960 is more natural. Go watch King Kong at the cinema and tell me how fake and artificial it looked. It didn't. Peter Jackson made it as smooth and natural as can be and the Sony 960 nearabout replicates the scenes in the game.


Let you eyes be the judge.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




Kristopher79 said:


> The 960 is what I like to call, pure VIDEO NIRVANA. King Kong will never in probably 2 years from now look any better than on a 960. Upcoming winter olympics will reign king on the 960 and all the lcd's and plasmas just won't keep up.
> 
> 
> Kris you are so right about the 960. Some might remember that I mentioned having a cateract removed yesterday. Before the procedure I could only sit a certain distance and angle for best viewing.
> 
> 
> Well, I can see clearly now (sorry Johnny Nash) and it's a repeat of the experience I had when the 960 was first delivered! I was prepared for some improvement in picture quality but was in shock (pleasantly) and literally BLOWN AWAY after taking off the patch and viewing for the first time the full spectrum of the 960's vibrance, sharpness, detail and color (and I thought it looked great beforehand) on HD and DVD and even digital cable and VHS.
> 
> 
> This summer before my cateract was a problem I viewed many plasmas and LCDs - including models that stores properly tweaked to push on the consumer. I can now honestly say the 960 beats them hands down! Or in Kris's words, it's Pure Video Nirvana!


----------



## MarcWalpole




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jamie_B* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey All,
> 
> 
> I've had my 960 for about 2 months and so far I am thrilled with quality of this display. I am having on issue though. If I shut the set off while watching one of the Video inputs, when I turn the set back on, my tuner can find no signal. I have to shut the set off while the Tuner is the active source and then when I turn it back on again, the Tuner works fine. This doesn't happen all the time, but it does it seems to happen all the time when the set is shut off all night, for 6 hours or so. Is this something that I should have looked at or is this "normal"??
> 
> 
> Also, one last question. It seems as if this set needs to warm up for for a 1/2 hour or so when it's first powered up before the picture really gets "dialed" in. Is this something that will go away after the sets broke in or is it always going to be like this? or should it never be like this??
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Jamie B



Jamie, I have a similar situation; my 960 is about 4 months old,manufactured in December 2004...I am on my 3rd tuner; I had the exact problems you described above with the original and the first replacement; this latest works *most*o f the time, but I occasionally have to turn the set off, then right back on; there was a post here about the "qbox" being the cause of the signal loss, but I believe that was only if you are using a cable box & the tuner couldn't handle all the channels it would receive; I am gettting about 10 stations OTA only, so no cable box involved..anyway, I can leave the set off for days and turn it on and get signals immediately regardless of what input it was left on; the next day, I'll have to do the on/off routine; there seems to be no pattern...good luck with your set because as you know, it delivers a terrific picture when it works...MM


----------



## mahicks

This model is my first choice for a bedroom TV. Unfortunately, the matching stand is nowhere near tall enough for our raised bed.


Does anyone know of a stand that is 25" or taller, or any idea for that matter??


This is the tv that I really want, I've just been searching in vain for a stand tall enough, that's big enough, that will hold the weight of the tv.


----------



## mahicks

Sorry for asking another question...


Does this unit have any type of onscreen guide, or TV guide to use with a cable card?


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mahicks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry for asking another question...
> 
> 
> Does this unit have any type of onscreen guide, or TV guide to use with a cable card?



Not a good one.


If you have a laptop handy during TV viewing log onto the TV Guide site.


----------



## mahicks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not a good one.
> 
> 
> If you have a laptop handy during TV viewing log onto the TV Guide site.




By good one, do you mean horrible?


All I would want it to do is the basics.


----------



## mahicks

what do you guys think of the BDI Vector 9525 stand?


I think this might be tall enough, it's reasonably priced, but is it strong enough?


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mahicks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> By good one, do you mean horrible?
> 
> 
> All I would want it to do is the basics.



Yes


Basics is an understatement. For SD channels I get the call letters and program name. For digital channels I get the call letters.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mahicks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> what do you guys think of the BDI Vector 9525 stand?
> 
> 
> I think this might be tall enough, it's reasonably priced, but is it strong enough?



I have my 30XS955 on this stand. It will hold the weight of the 960 but the top shelf is not wide enough for it.


----------



## mahicks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have my 30XS955 on this stand. It will hold the weight of the 960 but the top shelf is not wide enough for it.



I just figured this out!!


















Any ideas?


----------



## mahicks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes
> 
> 
> Basics is an understatement. For SD channels I get the call letters and program name. For digital channels I get the call letters.




Does it give you channel number or something you can "remember" to go back to?


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mahicks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does it give you channel number or something you can "remember" to go back to?



Yes, I do get channel numbers.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mahicks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry for asking another question...
> 
> 
> Does this unit have any type of onscreen guide, or TV guide to use with a cable card?



When using a cable card and the 960's built in HD tuner the index feature allows for momentary viewing of programs currently broadcast on all other stations. Thumbnail pictures of each scroll up the right side and become a momentary moving picture when reaching a certain box in the column. The station is changed when clicking the thumbnail. It also works if using over the air antennas or a splitter to bypass the cable box for twin view of unscrambled stations.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mahicks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone know of a stand that is 25" or taller, or any idea for that matter??



Billy Bags products (not cheap, but excellent).


For example, here's a 360o swivel-top table that's 40" wide, 30" high, 21" deep, and can support 300lbs. Billy Bags #4020-3 TV table with component shelves 


I've got my XBR960 in my bedroom sitting on a custom Billy Bags "low-boy" rack that I designed and had them build for me: 48" wide, 24" to the top surface of faux granite, contains shelf space for 6 components, 6 legs (for added support in the middle) with 1" isolation point feet.


Billy Bags is very well known for all kinds of racks. Not cheap, but excellent. Stock product TV stand selection


----------



## Kristopher79

I don't mean to get side track, but does anyone have experience using a Sony CX995V 400 DVD Changer with this tv? I hear most excellent things about the Oppo upconverting dvd player but I thought I might give this 400 disc changer a shot since I have so many dvds. It has hdmi output so I'm thinking it should look nice on the XBR but what do you think compared to the Oppo?


If the quality is going to be that much worse than the Oppo then I don't have to have it...was just something I'm considering.


Thanks


----------



## PhilipO38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kristopher79* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Also, don't let the 1400 line thing shock you. Never fear higher resolution.
> 
> 
> If your eyes tells you that the Samsung LCD is sharper than the 960 for gaming then you know what to get. Your right that the Samsung pales in comparison to the 960 as far as hdtv goes. The 960 is what I like to call, pure VIDEO NIRVANA. King Kong will never in probably 2 years from now look any better than on a 960. Upcoming winter olympics will reign king on the 960 and all the lcd's and plasmas just won't keep up. Gaming might be another story. I still think the 960 is top tier for gaming but some think an LCD is sharper. Me personally get sick of all the motion blur and unrealistic images. I played King Kong briefly on the Samsung LCD and the jungle looked fake. Usually I would say this is not a bad thing while watching hdtv but for gaming....No! The 960 is more natural. Go watch King Kong at the cinema and tell me how fake and artificial it looked. It didn't. Peter Jackson made it as smooth and natural as can be and the Sony 960 nearabout replicates the scenes in the game.
> 
> 
> Let you eyes be the judge.



Thanks for the you input here, i appreciate it.


I have a few quesions to run by you:


1) That Samsung LCD was probably connected via VGA adapter, making it seem like it had a sharper image quality then the XBR960..when playing on a Xbox360.

However it also had blurryness with fog and other fast action in COD2, and with the King Kong demo, most of that jungle level just appeared strange and unrealistic. Like you said it appeares "fake".


So while using a VGA adpater connection brings in better quaity, that LCD had other issues(even the flesh colors seemed to blend) that made me wonder why anyone would choose it for the HDTV for their 360.

*Having said this, Component is not the equal of quality of VGA is, so would you think if the 360 could output(or eventually would) in HDMI, how would this compare to VGA in tems of quality? (i'm not usually clueless on many things, but i am with HDMI)*


2) I'm making this assumption, so please let me know if you agree here:


Using the VGA adapter on a pc monitor in 1280*720(or 1280*768) would give the best possible output available, basically anywhere. Would you agree here, or is component the equal of VGA. (many folks debate this over and over, still)

*I'm making a logical assumption that the combination of VGA quality, no blurring and accurate colors, would make give this connection the best overall picture quality, gaming wise. Do you agree here?*


The XBR360 is as close i have seen to VGA quality for a CRT HDTV, but that Samsung LCD w/VGA connection, seemed sharper(or maybe i need to mess with the XBR960 settings more?), when displaying the 360, but it had so many other issues that that one advantage is basically wasted.


(This is all forgetting screen size , of course.)


My quessing would be these are the top connection at/below 34":


1)VGA --> pc monitor using the VGA adapter in 720p. (but realistically for console gaming, you would need a good size pc monitor, one at least 20 inches or higher)


2)XBR960(or the best CRT HDTV's in general) using HD component cables of the 360, with the 360's output set to eithier 720p or 1080i.


3)LCD's using VGA connections set to 720p.


----------



## RookPSU

I know this is a pretty broad question. But for $1499.99 will the XBR 960 provide me the best PQ for the money? I will be viewing from about 7-8 feet tops and I am in now way bothered by the heavy and bulky form factor. All I care about is crisp HD viewing.


For example I saw the Sony 42'' Grand Wega Projection (KDF-E42A10) selling for an extra $100 on the same site and so I got to thinking if possibly I could get more value for the money? Any and all opinions would be greatly appreciated.


- Ryan


----------



## PhilipO38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RookPSU* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I know this is a pretty broad question. But for $1499.99 will the XBR 960 provide me the best PQ for the money? I will be viewing from about 7-8 feet tops and I am in now way bothered by the heavy and bulky form factor. All I care about is crisp HD viewing.
> 
> 
> For example I saw the Sony 42'' Grand Wega Projection (KDF-E42A10) selling for an extra $100 on the same site and so I got to thinking if possibly I could get more value for the money? Any and all opinions would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> - Ryan



Many here are probably alot more experienced then i am(but i still know my stuff about HDTV's), however i spent many days in B.Buy and C.City comparing nearly every HDTV from 42" and below, and for me the XBR960 gave the best picture quality, as it was so obvious during the ESPN sunday night game, as looking at each HDTV set ..in every type of set(DLP,CRT, LCD..ect), the XBR960 clearly had the best HDTV picture quality.


And when SDTV was being shown, it was clearly sharper then all the other 34"/30" HDTV's right next to it, so much so it became a no brainer, this HDTV had the best PQ i ever saw.


Note: I only looked at the 42" and below sets, as that's what i was looking to buy.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RookPSU* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I know this is a pretty broad question. But for $1499.99 will the XBR 960 provide me the best PQ for the money?
> 
> - Ryan



YES.


----------



## crosstuningforks

I just got my 960 ISF calibrated today by Chad B (HDTVbyChadB.com). He was very proficient at his work, professional, and spent plenty of time answering questions, and reviewing with me what was done to the set. Armed with a little knowledge from the forum, I had no problems understanding the final report at the end.


I haven't had the time yet for "critical viewing", but initial impressions are good. Is there a "night and day" difference? No. Is there satisfaction and peace of mind that comes with knowing that I am extracting all of the potential out of the set with proper calibration? Absolutely.


I'd highly recommend his services to anybody here in his coverage area (see his website).


----------



## mav63

My XBR960 has problems. Manuf date 04/05. I have searched many forums and no one seems to have the problem I have. My picture looks like a pattern you would see in carpeting. The audio is fine, video is scrambled on all inputs. Sony sent a tech out and they said, yes it is broke. They had a conference call with Sony tech support and supposedly are ordering a "B Y Board"?? Anyone know what this is and do you think it will fix my problem? I can't post a pic or link to a pic of the display but just imagine carpeting pattern in a corporate office.


----------



## Sam Johnson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mav63* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My XBR960 has problems. Manuf date 04/05. I have searched many forums and no one seems to have the problem I have. My picture looks like a pattern you would see in carpeting. The audio is fine, video is scrambled on all inputs. Sony sent a tech out and they said, yes it is broke. They had a conference call with Sony tech support and supposedly are ordering a "B Y Board"?? Anyone know what this is and do you think it will fix my problem? I can't post a pic or link to a pic of the display but just imagine carpeting pattern in a corporate office.




Is the carpet pattern overlaid on a recognizable picture, or is it truly just a collection of random colors?


----------



## mav63

There is definitely a picture in there. It seems to be about 30 or 40 repeated compressed images.


----------



## Sam Johnson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mav63* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There is definitely a picture in there. It seems to be about 30 or 40 repeated compressed images.




Guess it's a different problem than mine. Mine is the full picture overlaid by an interference pattern of wavy lines and snow. Happens each time I power on after the set has been off for at least several hours. Hope the new board solves the problem. The set is really a good one (without the problems!) Good luck, and Happy Holidays!


----------



## mahicks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Billy Bags products (not cheap, but excellent).
> 
> 
> For example, here's a 360o swivel-top table that's 40" wide, 30" high, 21" deep, and can support 300lbs. Billy Bags #4020-3 TV table with component shelves
> 
> 
> I've got my XBR960 in my bedroom sitting on a custom Billy Bags "low-boy" rack that I designed and had them build for me: 48" wide, 24" to the top surface of faux granite, contains shelf space for 6 components, 6 legs (for added support in the middle) with 1" isolation point feet.
> 
> 
> Billy Bags is very well known for all kinds of racks. Not cheap, but excellent. Stock product TV stand selection



Thanks D,


They are just a little out of my price range, which is $500ish.


Anything else??


----------



## mahicks

Help me out plz!


What is the actual "footprint" dimensions of this set?


Is the actual footprint 23 7/8z" inch or is it less????



Thank You in advance for any help!


(I'm still on my search for a Bedroom stand!)


----------



## Ladd

A few months ago I made a swivel platform for my soon-to-arrive XBR90. It occurs to me that placing this "in the public domain" as they say, might be of help to other folks at some time in the future. And it allows me to pay back some of the karma received when asking a zillion questions here prior to my purchase of the TV.










Attached to this message are several photos of the finshed product and a PDF to use as a guide for cutting the plywood. The "measured drawing" is based on (and contains) a photo of the bottom of the TV that is on Sony's website.

Download actual size TV Platform "Measured Drawing" PDF Here (505 KB) 

*Materials List:*


2' x 4' pre-cut piece plywood from Lowes: I used 3/4" which works OK, but just OK; if Lowes or Home Depot had 1", I would have used that and been happier.


12" "lazy susan" circular bearing assembly (about $9.50 at Lowes); weight capacity for this size assembly exceeds 1,000 pounds.


Duck Tape for taping cut lines to eliminate splintering.


*Directions:*


Cut plywood down from 48" to 39". Use duct tape on both sides of wood to eliminate splintering.


Cut plywood down from 24" to 22". Use duct tape on both sides of wood to eliminate splintering.


Mark plywood for cutting according to measurements of attached PDF.


Firmly apply duck tape to cut lines on both sides of plywood to eliminate splintering.


Re-mark cut lines over tape so you can see where to cut!










Cut wood.


Remove tape and sand edges.


Paint accordingly.


Lubricate the bearings in the ring assembly -- I used spray silicon because it is a "dry" lubrication.


Place 12" ring bearing down on surface on which you will be placing the platform. When the platform is set on top of the ring bearing (centered betwen the left and right edges of the platform), have the front edge of the bearing ring about 3/4" back from the front of the platform. This location centers the weight of the TV pretty close to the center of the 12" bearing assembly for good balance and smooth operation.


Place TV on top of platform; it will fit perfectly.


I can swivel the TV with light pressure from one finger.










.









.


----------



## DI-TECH1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mav63* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My XBR960 has problems. Manuf date 04/05. I have searched many forums and no one seems to have the problem I have. My picture looks like a pattern you would see in carpeting. The audio is fine, video is scrambled on all inputs. Sony sent a tech out and they said, yes it is broke. They had a conference call with Sony tech support and supposedly are ordering a "B Y Board"?? Anyone know what this is and do you think it will fix my problem? I can't post a pic or link to a pic of the display but just imagine carpeting pattern in a corporate office.



Hey Mav, my 960's manufacture date is also 04/05. I've noticed heavy pixelation and "scrambling" at times around fast moving objects, or quick video transitions. I've been told that it is a source issue, but I notice this on all inputs as well. I've also been told this is normal mpeg artifacting. If you at all possible could describe your problem in even more detail that would be great, because I have a tech coming out, and I would like to see if he or she thinks that I may be having a similar issue with the "B Y Board" or whatever.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RookPSU* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I know this is a pretty broad question. But for $1499.99 will the XBR 960 provide me the best PQ for the money? I will be viewing from about 7-8 feet tops and I am in now way bothered by the heavy and bulky form factor. All I care about is crisp HD viewing.
> 
> 
> For example I saw the Sony 42'' Grand Wega Projection (KDF-E42A10) selling for an extra $100 on the same site and so I got to thinking if possibly I could get more value for the money? Any and all opinions would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> - Ryan



Hi Ryan,


The 960 is the best HD set available - plasma, LCD, etc. Instead of basing your final decision on what us owners might say, search the internet for professional reviews. You will find near-unanimous agreement that the 960 is the finest on the market.


Now that my cateract was removed I appreciate the picture quality even more. Felt I was at MSG watching the Knicks blown out once more or the Nassau Coliseum with the Islanders playing the Devils. Football under the lights is unbelievable. Baseball was superb, even with my vision being affected by the cateract (I did spend lots of time watching through my good eye)


Some on this forum unfortunately experienced problems requiring service and even replacment, however, that could occur with any piece of equipment - this set comes with a two year in house warranty. Haven't found any others with the same protection.


----------



## dfitz43

Hi all,


anybody here using the 960 as a monitor for HTPC? I'm convinced that this set offers tremendous picture quality for the $$, but I wonder how well it performs for HTPC.


My primary application would be sending ATSC signals via a SageTV interface over HDMI, so I would guess that it would work pretty well. I'm not really going to be surfing or emailing or anything (I recognize that the interlaced signal is not the greatest for reading text.)


Just wondering how much more complicated it is to use CRT for HTPC vs. fixed pixel display. I have a Sammy DLP connected to HTPC and this works fantastic--am I going to be in for a world of hurt if I try to do the same with the 960?


TIA,


Dave


P.S. Ok, I just saw the "960 as HTPC monitor thread" over in the HTPC forum. Seems like DVI/HDMI connection can be problematic, but doable.


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> anybody here using the 960 as a monitor for HTPC? I'm convinced that this set offers tremendous picture quality for the $$, but I wonder how well it performs for HTPC.
> 
> 
> My primary application would be sending ATSC signals via a SageTV interface over HDMI, so I would guess that it would work pretty well. I'm not really going to be surfing or emailing or anything (I recognize that the interlaced signal is not the greatest for reading text.)



I have the smaller XS955 model and

it works great via HDMI and for 10 foot interfaces like SageTV


you can web surf on it but normally 480p is the only usable/readable resolution

and 480p is 4:3


also another thing you should try is using your HTPC as a DVD player

DVDs look amazing upscaled from a HTPC


----------



## mav63

DI-TECH1, my picture is always scrambled. It is not intermittent. Click here


----------



## dfitz43

kny3twalker,


what resolution are you sending your set from your video card? Clearly, the set can do scaling internally, and I know that there's not really a "native resolution" as there is for fixed pixel. That's one of the things I'm concerned about--I'm hoping not to have to deal with powerstrip, etc, etc...


Glad to hear that it does look really good, though.


I'm actually thinking about the XS955 over the XBR. I'm not really seeing too much difference besides some iLink ports that I probably won't use, and an anti-glare coating that has apparently been removed in the 960N. I suppose others might disagree, but just for the fundamental technology alone, seems like the XS955 is the better value.


Thanks,

Dave


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mav63* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My XBR960 has problems. Manuf date 04/05. I have searched many forums and no one seems to have the problem I have. My picture looks like a pattern you would see in carpeting. The audio is fine, video is scrambled on all inputs. Sony sent a tech out and they said, yes it is broke. They had a conference call with Sony tech support and supposedly are ordering a "B Y Board"?? Anyone know what this is and do you think it will fix my problem? I can't post a pic or link to a pic of the display but just imagine carpeting pattern in a corporate office.




I'm afraid I can't help much, but... I presume they mean "B-Y." Component video can be described as Y (luminous) R-Y, and B-Y (red minus luminous, blue minus luminous.) It's how analog video is encoded and decoded. So I presume he's talking about an analog processing board.


Mark


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> what resolution are you sending your set from your video card? Clearly, the set can do scaling internally, and I know that there's not really a "native resolution" as there is for fixed pixel. That's one of the things I'm concerned about--I'm hoping not to have to deal with powerstrip, etc, etc...



I just set my video card drivers to 1080i resolution

its all built into the newer drivers from both ATI and nvidia

although my card is a nvidia (6800)


there is overscan but apps like SAgeTV and MCE 2005 have overscan adjust to fi thte menus and such to your TV

I do not use the underscanning in the video card drivers to to underscan the outputted resolution


and the XS/XBR can display 480p and 1080i as well as 960i from a 480i source



> Quote:
> I'm actually thinking about the XS955 over the XBR. I'm not really seeing too much difference besides some iLink ports that I probably won't use, and an anti-glare coating that has apparently been removed in the 960N. I suppose others might disagree, but just for the fundamental technology alone, seems like the XS955 is the better value.



the XS955 has a N model for the 34" just not the 30"


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *crosstuningforks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there satisfaction and peace of mind that comes with knowing that I am extracting all of the potential out of the set with proper calibration? Absolutely.



I agree. I'm finally taking the ISF plunge and I have an appt. for next week.


----------



## BHendershot

The XBR960 is listed as being 39 1/4" wide. Can I trust that measurement? My cabinet opening is 39 1/2". A tighter tolerance than I'd like but it will look like a custom fit if I can get the thing in there.


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I agree. I'm finally taking the ISF plunge and I have an appt. for next week.



If you don't mind me asking, who did you go with? I would probably spring for one myself, but I can't find anyone reputable here in So. Jersey/Philly.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LongRufus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you don't mind me asking, who did you go with? I would probably spring for one myself, but I can't find anyone reputable here in So. Jersey/Philly.



Pulled this guy off the ISF web page. I have no idea if he is good or not.

http://www.techlogic.us/ 


You may want to ask in this thread for recommendations.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=182983


----------



## david4455

I thought I was being clever and purchased my Avia DVD on Ebay for about $26. I bought from a seller in my own State thinking it would be here in a few days....17 days later I am still waiting....turns out he mailed it MEDIA MAIL( or so he says) ....at Christmas time!!.... anyway if you go the same route I do be careful what method the dvd is being shipped...especially if you are looking for instant gratification....I don't remember seeing an option as to different ways to ship....


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BHendershot* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The XBR960 is listed as being 39 1/4" wide. Can I trust that measurement? My cabinet opening is 39 1/2". A tighter tolerance than I'd like but it will look like a custom fit if I can get the thing in there.



It is possible that the XBR960N is a different size, but the cabinet width at the front of my plain ol' XBR960 purchased in September is, as of two minutes ago (but you know how "widths" can change around the holidays), rounding up to the nearest 1/16", 38 15/16" wide.


Don't make me take out the micrometer ...


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *david4455* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I thought I was being clever and purchased my Avia DVD on Ebay for about $26. I bought from a seller in my own State thinking it would be here in a few days....17 days later I am still waiting....turns out he mailed it MEDIA MAIL( or so he says) ....at Christmas time!!.... anyway if you go the same route I do be careful what method the dvd is being shipped...especially if you are looking for instant gratification....I don't remember seeing an option as to different ways to ship....



Avia brand new costs about the same from places like Amazon. Why in the world did you even do this?


You won't see that thing for weeks and I wouldn't place any bets on its condition when it arrives.


----------



## kny3twalker

pricegrabber listing for new AVIA discs

http://www.pricegrabber.com/search_g...earch=AVIA+DVD 


Amazon selling through OneCall was 36

going directly to OneCall was 33


----------



## david4455




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *david4455* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I thought I was being clever and purchased my Avia DVD on Ebay for about $26. I bought from a seller in my own State thinking it would be here in a few days....17 days later I am still waiting....turns out he mailed it MEDIA MAIL( or so he says) ....at Christmas time!!.... anyway if you go the same route I do be careful what method the dvd is being shipped...especially if you are looking for instant gratification....I don't remember seeing an option as to different ways to ship....



Okay ..I just reviewed the sale...it wasn't ebay...but a private seller on Amazon... the cost was $29.95 and the shipping said "standard shipping"......

So when I purchased the item I felt I was making a decent decision....


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Pulled this guy off the ISF web page. I have no idea if he is good or not.
> 
> http://www.techlogic.us/
> 
> 
> You may want to ask in this thread for recommendations.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=182983



Thanks for the tip. I did notice this guy was recently added to the ISF list, but his website kinda turned me off. A very general explanation of his services on the front page, everything else is "under construction.


----------



## Kristopher79




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PhilipO38* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the you input here, i appreciate it.
> 
> 
> I have a few quesions to run by you:
> 
> 
> 1) That Samsung LCD was probably connected via VGA adapter, making it seem like it had a sharper image quality then the XBR960..when playing on a Xbox360.
> 
> However it also had blurryness with fog and other fast action in COD2, and with the King Kong demo, most of that jungle level just appeared strange and unrealistic. Like you said it appeares "fake".
> 
> 
> So while using a VGA adpater connection brings in better quaity, that LCD had other issues(even the flesh colors seemed to blend) that made me wonder why anyone would choose it for the HDTV for their 360.
> 
> *Having said this, Component is not the equal of quality of VGA is, so would you think if the 360 could output(or eventually would) in HDMI, how would this compare to VGA in tems of quality? (i'm not usually clueless on many things, but i am with HDMI)*
> 
> 
> 2) I'm making this assumption, so please let me know if you agree here:
> 
> 
> Using the VGA adapter on a pc monitor in 1280*720(or 1280*768) would give the best possible output available, basically anywhere. Would you agree here, or is component the equal of VGA. (many folks debate this over and over, still)
> 
> *I'm making a logical assumption that the combination of VGA quality, no blurring and accurate colors, would make give this connection the best overall picture quality, gaming wise. Do you agree here?*
> 
> 
> The XBR360 is as close i have seen to VGA quality for a CRT HDTV, but that Samsung LCD w/VGA connection, seemed sharper(or maybe i need to mess with the XBR960 settings more?), when displaying the 360, but it had so many other issues that that one advantage is basically wasted.
> 
> 
> (This is all forgetting screen size , of course.)
> 
> 
> My quessing would be these are the top connection at/below 34":
> 
> 
> 1)VGA --> pc monitor using the VGA adapter in 720p. (but realistically for console gaming, you would need a good size pc monitor, one at least 20 inches or higher)
> 
> 
> 2)XBR960(or the best CRT HDTV's in general) using HD component cables of the 360, with the 360's output set to eithier 720p or 1080i.
> 
> 
> 3)LCD's using VGA connections set to 720p.




Philip038, unfortunately I haven't had alot of time the past few days to sit in front on my pc (I wait till the last minute to do xmas shopping hehe) but when I get the chance I'll elvaluate each and every question for you asap.


Briefly skimming over what you said, I can tell you that VGA is the absolute best connection and I can only imagine for ANY display. This is why it "seems" better and more crisp on an LCD. However!!! Since the XBR960 is such a strong hdtv performer, by using a component connection I bet you would be hard pressed to see a diff. Yes, VGA would be nice on the XBR960....but due to the nature of the super fine pitch monitor (like a pc monitor or even LCD in some respect) I believe the VGA would add the "fakeness" and the added grey colors to the jungle. Don't get me wrong it would be beautiful but IMO the vga would put the XBR into the LCD class. Does this make sense?


Basically I feel that we are rather lucky to have a 34" tube tv such as the XBR that looks so realistic with component cables. I wouldn't have it any other way.


As far as HDMI, I nor anyone else would be able to comment on that since nobody has seen Xbox 360 on HDMI. We will have to wait for PS3 to see about that...

You can bet your last dollar that PS3 via HDMI will be FABULOUS on the XBR. So...in summery, don't count out the XBR on account of 360. 1 hdmi connection on the XBR is all we'll ever need (hdmi switchbox) to see THE BEST OF THE BEST for years to come.


I have further proof. Xbox on the LCD via VGA should be a rough estimate as to what to expect from PS3 and Blu-ray dvds in the future. I said "rough" not exact. I could be off, but from what I've seen from component on the XBR...I just don't feel there is ANY WAY an lcd/plasma will hang not now not 2 years from now with the potential of hdmi and xbr960.


I'll discuss further with my real life impressions after xmas.


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> Briefly skimming over what you said, I can tell you that VGA is the absolute best connection and I can only imagine for ANY display.



uh NO


VGA maybe better than component but HDMI/DVI is better for display microdisplays



> Quote:
> Yes, VGA would be nice on the XBR960....but due to the nature of the super fine pitch monitor (like a pc monitor or even LCD in some respect) I believe the VGA would add the "fakeness" and the added grey colors to the jungle. Don't get me wrong it would be beautiful but IMO the vga would put the XBR into the LCD class. Does this make sense?



the reason I would guess that Sony did not include VGA or RGBHV input is because the set cannot display high progressive scan resolutions

which is normally associated with VGA


and VGA from a PC would add more variations of grey simply because the two devices(TV/PC) use difference color spaces

but any CE device with VGA output, would output the correct color space


not sure what you mean by put into the LCD class with VGA input

past CRT HD monitors had VGA input



> Quote:
> As far as HDMI, I nor anyone else would be able to comment on that since nobody has seen Xbox 360 on HDMI. We will have to wait for PS3 to see about that...
> 
> You can bet your last dollar that PS3 via HDMI will be FABULOUS on the XBR. So...in summery, don't count out the XBR on account of 360. 1 hdmi connection on the XBR is all we'll ever need (hdmi switchbox) to see THE BEST OF THE BEST for years to come.



I have my PC connected via DVI to HDMI which would the equivalent of the PS3 or xbox360 over HDMI (if of course my PC hardware was up to that spec)

and anyways, AFAIK CRT HDTVs do better with analogue component inputs than digital video inputs cause of the internal electronics, DACs and ADCs


----------



## TheAngryGolfer

I've been looking into finally getting an HDTV for a while and now that I'm getting an xbox 360 i need one now... and from everything I have read this TV is the best out there, picture wise. they are getting pretty har dto find tho since everyone wants plasma/lcd now.


just a few questions.... what is invoice on this TV? My friend has a friend who manages a best buy and I should be able to get one for 5% above cost.


anyone here get a good price on one?


also, I've been reading about the ISF technicians... anyone know of one in the Staten Island, NY area, and how much it usually costs?


----------



## TheAngryGolfer

also does anyone make a "switchbox" for hd component cables and HDMI.... so u can have more inputs. I have one for the regular red yellow white inputs... but i will probably end up needing one for HD component/HDMI.....


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheAngryGolfer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> just a few questions.... what is invoice on this TV? My friend has a friend who manages a best buy and I should be able to get one for 5% above cost.



Any price below this one is a move in the right direction.

http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTE...4%22to36%22TVs 


Just shop around. If you have a hook up through BB then take advantage of it.


----------



## POWERFUL

try the JX-66 its made by JVC and it's unpowered component 3 port switcher. I have one but got a second one as a gift and would sell you mine for 50 plus S&H.


----------



## santodx5

coz i am planning to buy 1


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *santodx5* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> coz i am planning to buy 1



Not only will it drop, but in April you'll be able to wire your check from Uncle Sam straight to Sony and have the set delivered to your door.


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> santodx5 coz i am planning to buy 1



if I could tell you, I concernly would be spending more time investing in the stock market than wasting it replying to this


----------



## ironfoot995

I'm getting really close to pulling the trigger on the 960N at TVsDepot, where it's priced several hundred dollars under list, and free shipping. Do any of you have any experience with this retailer? I don't want to get burned.


Merry Christmas!

John


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ironfoot995* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm getting really close to pulling the trigger on the 960N at TVsDepot, where it's priced several hundred dollars under list, and free shipping. Do any of you have any experience with this retailer? I don't want to get burned.
> 
> 
> Merry Christmas!
> 
> John




I keep seeing their names come up around here, and I don't believe they are an authorized Sony dealer. I'm not 100 percent sure, though.


What does this mean? It means that Sony may not recognize your warranty whatsoever, so make sure you check out any retailer off of Sony's website or via phone before you proceed.


Don't just take the retailer's word for it, because they'll always say "yes."


----------



## westmc

I was hesitant to post this here because the thread is so large and wound up posting it in the main forum, but somebody suggested I might getter better results here...


I just got a 34xbr960 and have a few issues that I would really appreciate help with.


1. I had to adjust the tilt and vertical center (+1/+1). Did other people have to do this? My last tv was an old 36xbr400 and I never had a problem like that.


2. When I switch to either hdmi (dvd) or component (ps2) inputs and the unit on the other end is off, then I see a VERY distinct vertical white line about 5" from the left. It seems to go away when I switch on whatever it is that is attached, but does anybody else have this? It is at the left edge of where 4:3 images get displayed in normal mode.


3. When I put my ps2 in 16:9 mode, the image comes out compressed. I have to switch it to full mode on the tv and it terrible because of the fact that it doesn't fill the screen. It leaves like a 1/8" border on the left and 1/4" border on the right that is all fuzzy. Does anybody else have this? Should I try to get into the service menu to fix this?


4. I read some mentions about an offcenter issue with the component inputs but I couldn't find a description of the exact problem. Could somebody please tell me? Is this the issue I am experiencing with the ps2?


5. I am thinking about getting it ISF calibrated? Does anybody on here live in the Las Vegas area that can recommend somebody?


6. When I watch tv in 4:3 in normal mode (with the black bars on the sides), I get what looks like a white fuzzy line on the left side of the image. Is this underscan that can this be fixed through the service menu or is it something else?


I know that this is a lot, especially from a first time poster on here (and I admit that I didn't read all 99 pages of the 34xbr960 post) but I did try searching and couldn't find answers. Please help.


----------



## Q of BanditZ

^^



Everyone already saw this, don't worry. You didn't needn't repeat it all again.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=621267


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LongRufus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you don't mind me asking, who did you go with? I would probably spring for one myself, but I can't find anyone reputable here in So. Jersey/Philly.



I went with one of the people from the ISF site, near my home. I'm going to hold off on mentioning their name until I have the calibration done. In the very unlikely event that I am unsatisfied, I wouldn't want to tarnish someone's reputation. I will post to this thread with my impression of the process and results though. Really looking forward to finally doing this. I procrastinated for far too long.


Ladd - nice work! Love the idea of a swivel for this set. Really professional looking setup.


Merry Christmas All


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ladd - nice work! Love the idea of a swivel for this set. Really professional looking setup



Thanks for the compliment -- a nice Christmas Eve present.


----------



## PowerON

I finally purchased the fabled KD 34-XBR960N about a week ago from the SonyStyle website (after many, many months of research and deliberation), and this weekend I've been watching some NFL games in HD, and the picture quality on this TV is almost beyond belief. All I can say is...WOW. I knew this TV was the best CRT on the market, but when I saw my first game in high-def, it totally blew me away. I seriously can't imagine any other TV having a better picture than this. The colors, the crispness, the sharpness, the detail, the clarity (referring to an HD picture, of course), it's really quite amazing.


If anybody out there is on the fence, and undecided about what kind of HDTV to get, if this TV's within your price range, I would recommend this to anybody. I believe Sony stops manufacturing these TV's after 2008, so we probably won't see a TV quite like this ever again. I've also been playing some PS2 and Xbox 1 (hooked up to the TV with component cables), and a game like Half-Life 2 for the Xbox looks phenomenal. I can't wait to see what the Xbox360 is going to look like.


All in all, I'm extremely satisfied with my purchase. The ordering process on Sony's website, as well as their free in-home delivery, was superb. I waited (and saved my money) for about 9 months to buy an HDTV, and I'm very happy with this purchase. So far, there have been ZERO problems with this TV. I can't recommend it enough.


----------



## PowerON




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ironfoot995* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm getting really close to pulling the trigger on the 960N at TVsDepot, where it's priced several hundred dollars under list, and free shipping. Do any of you have any experience with this retailer? I don't want to get burned.
> 
> 
> Merry Christmas!
> 
> John




I don't have any experience with that retailer in particular, but when I initially ordered my XBR960N, it was through a different, but very small internet retailer (who shall remain nameless), and my experience with them was really mixed. My experience was both very good, and very bad. I ultimately ended up ordering the TV online from SonyStyle directly. Let me explain.


Before I ordered the TV, I emailed this small internet retailer, and asked them if a white glove delivery option was available. Their website only listed a standard, curbside delivery option, and nothing else. They emailed me back and said a white glove delivery could be arranged, but it would cost about $135 more. I thought okay, but I was wondering how would this be arranged? There was no explanation about how to arrange an inside delivery. That was my first clue that maybe ordering from this company wasn't such a good idea. I thought, well, I'll work out something with the delivery truck when it gets here. So I went ahead and ordered the TV from their website. I noticed during the ordering process, that an inside delivery was not an option, either. So I was wondering how would an inside delivery be arranged? I started to get concerned, but went ahead anyway.


At the time I ordered the TV, they only had one left in stock. The day after I ordered the TV, a rep from the company called me to confirm my order. I called them back that evening and confirmed the order. I emailed them as well confirming the order, and they emailed me back the next day saying the order was processed, and the TV would be shipped out in 24-48 hours. So far, so good. I waited several more days, but never received any shipping info. I called them and they said they would provide me with the shipping info in a day or two, so I waited a few more days, but I received nothing.


I called the company again, and was told that the last item they had in stock, was an open box item, and because it's against their policy to ship anything but factory sealed merchandise, they couldn't ship that item. I thought to myself that's good that they didn't try to ship me an opened item, but what about the TV I ordered? Well, I was told the TV had shipped out, which was a complete lie. They were out of stock and had no more TV's to ship, but I was told that the TV had shipped out. It was at this point that I started to panic somewhat.


I checked the company's website, and it clearly indicated they were out of stock. Just to make sure, I called the freight company they use to ship the TV, and after they made a pretty thorough search, they said no order had been entered with them to ship anything to my address. Now, this company's stated policy is to notify the customer if an item is out of strock at the time the order is processed. Then the customer is supposed to be given an option of waiting until the item is in stock, or get a refund. I was never notified or presented with any options, but instead was totally lied to.


I called the company back and told them the TV was out of stock, I wanted to cancel the order, and wanted my credit card refunded back. To their credit, they immediately refunded my credit card right at that time, and the next day it showed up on my card as a refund. They also faxed me confirmation that day of the refund, as well. At this point, I breathed a huge sigh of relief, and felt like I had just dodged a major bullet. Once I saw that my credit card had been refunded, I ordered the TV from SonyStyle directly, and the experience with Sony was phenomenal.


I ordered the TV online from Sony on a Sunday afternoon, it shipped the next day on Monday, and the TV arrived in Minneapolis (where I live) on the day they said it would, and two men brought the TV inside the apartment, put it in the room I wanted, and put it on the TV stand, and removed the box and all shipping debris, FOR FREE. This in-home delivery does not cost a penny! Normally they would plug in the TV as well to make sure it works, but because the TV was delivered on a very cold day, the guy recommended I wait at least an hour before I plug in the TV, so it could warm up. I examined the TV, and there wasn't a scratch anywhere on it that I could see. I signed the papers, and away they went.


This entire delivery was done in 5-10 minutes. I live on the ground floor, so they didn't have to contend with any stairs. But the point is that they were fast, efficient, and professional. Sony kept me well informed during the entire process. I knew exactly where the TV was during the process, and I never had any questions about anything. There was never any ambiguity about whether or not it was in stock, what kind of delivery it would be, how much I would be charged, etc.


My advice is DO NOT order this TV from anybody but Sony, or the most well known and respected retailers like Best Buy, Circuit City, etc. If you're going to make a major purchase, and spend $1,500 - $2,000 on a piece of electronics such as this TV, this is not something you want to leave to chance, or take risks with, or play games with. I was initially willing to throw the dice and take a chance with an relatively unknown online reseller (even though they were CNET certified with a supposed 5 star rating), because I wanted to save a few hundred dollars on the deal.


Believe me, this TV is worth the MSRP, and any deal with these unknown resellers can go south real quick. Its not worth the stress, aggravation, and anguish that this can cause. If you buy this TV from Sony (which, by the way, is about the only place where I could find the TV in stock), there are no guessing games to deal with, no mysteries to explore, and they have the free in-home delivery, which can't be beat. This is a very heavy TV, so let the professionals handle it, because if they drop it or break it, it's on them, not you.


Sorry for the long post, but I hope people take my advice and read about my experience, because I don't want something like this to happen to anybody else. It was way too stressful and agonizing. Save yourself the hassles, and don't waste your time with anybody but the best in the business.


----------



## kny3twalker

I believe Crutchfield has them in stock

they also are known for their great service, support, true authorized sony dealer etc...


I have ordered from both them and directly from sonystyle

both gave top notch service and customer care


as far as who was the online store, who was it?


it is important you inform the others members so no one else makes the same mistake


thanks


----------



## mav63




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mav63* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> DI-TECH1, my picture is always scrambled. It is not intermittent. Click here



Technician came out and replaced the B-Y Board, no joy. He said next they will try the "Q Box". If I have no HDTV over new years, that will not be good.

They will try to get the Q Box replaced by Friday.


----------



## Kristopher79

Question for Q of Banditz,


You see to know alot about this display so I turn to you for this one...


I've had this tv for a couple weeks now and for the life of me I can't seem to get it bright enough for my liking. I also have a Pioneer Plasma and am used to the brightness on that display. But, I didn't get this set to be like the plasma... I got it for the bedroom and the superior black level detail.


Well, so far the blacks have been perfect but the detail is down because it is too black. Does this make sense? I haven't tried Avia or VE yet but usually I can tweak it pretty good with my eyes. I have it set to pro and monitor and then go from there. I can't come up with a solution for DVD and hdtv watching that is both great black detail and bright enough for my liking.


So....my ultimate question for you is if I get someone to ISF calibrate my set (tweeter gave me a $150 estimate) will it be too dark for my liking (if I'm unsatisfied now).


Oh I should also mention I'm using component cable for DVD and hdtv as I haven't yet acquired an HDMI cable.



ps- thanks q of banditz for any help as I have followed this forum since the beginning and I have enjoyed your posts and knowledge I have grown in reading them.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kristopher79* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Question for Q of Banditz,
> 
> 
> You see to know alot about this display so I turn to you for this one...
> 
> 
> I've had this tv for a couple weeks now and for the life of me I can't seem to get it bright enough for my liking. I also have a Pioneer Plasma and am used to the brightness on that display. But, I didn't get this set to be like the plasma... I got it for the bedroom and the superior black level detail.
> 
> 
> Well, so far the blacks have been perfect but the detail is down because it is too black. Does this make sense?



Yup! That's exactly the way it felt to me before my ISF job.




> Quote:
> I haven't tried Avia or VE yet but usually I can tweak it pretty good with my eyes. I have it set to pro and monitor and then go from there. I can't come up with a solution for DVD and hdtv watching that is both great black detail and bright enough for my liking.
> 
> 
> So....my ultimate question for you is if I get someone to ISF calibrate my set (tweeter gave me a $150 estimate) will it be too dark for my liking (if I'm unsatisfied now).



Simply put: No.










I was having the same problem before my ISF job. Constantly fiddling with contrast and brightness and never getting it to where I was satisfied. A couple of weeks of that routine and I knew I had to get the ISF job done. I was going nuts!


Post ISF, I never even think about reaching for the remote one time.


It's a real night and day difference for this set after an ISF job.


ISF testimonial: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=561596 



> Quote:
> Oh I should also mention I'm using component cable for DVD and hdtv as I haven't yet acquired an HDMI cable.



Get your DVD player over HDMI ASAP. It's worth it


Post ISF, both component and HDMI sources will look great, so don't let this trouble you in any regard.



A qualified ISF person will not leave until you are satisfied with what you see. $150 is a steal for an ISF job, if you're sure about that price and its source.


$225, give or take, is the usual SRP that an ISF job costs, so I'm not sure $150 gets you. Make sure of what you're getting into before you commit.


Spend a little time here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=139


----------



## Shadowx117

Hi every one I just purchesed this set on Saterday and so far i am very pleased but I do have a few minor problems. One is that I can't find a list of settings that shows optimum viewing for this set as in picture 43 brightness: 50 ect. Please share with me what you use. I posted this concern in the calibration section but have had no response. the second problem is that I also got an Xbox 360 on saterday and when playing Perfect Dark Zero it can be very hard to see at times do to the tv showing some places in the game to be very dark. I am sure that these places should be dark but not so much that you cannot see the enemy. Please help me if you can and thank you in advance.


----------



## Krychekxf

Hi folks, long time lurker but first time poster.










I just had to comment on my purchase recently on this big bad boy the 960. Like most folks I had the dilemma of going PQ over size. My friend has a Samsung 50 inch and the HD is good but the regular cable sucks big time so this helped make my decision a little easier. I went back and forth for about 4 months (while I sold used dvds on Ebay to help pay for this thing..no really I did) and finally took the plunge and all I can say is WOW. *Wowwsie-wowwsie-wow-wow...







as Christopher Walken would say.* The picture is amazing like everyone rants about. I live in Houston and have Time Warner digital cable HD package and HD Net is always incredible. My wife couldn't believe I was paying this much for a tv but she is for sure coming around now. Kinda sucks because before she would watch her shows in the bedroom which left my shows for the living room but now I have to watch (shudder thinking about it) Watching Jordan in HD







. HD still doesn't improve this show btw. Anyway, just wanted to say whoever is thinking of pulling the trigger please do not hesitate.


I bought mine from Circuit City for $1,800 but that was for the tv (opened box but they still treat as new), extended 3 yr warrantee, stand and delivery. I bought a cheap $13 dollar HDMI cable from Radio Shack and the picture is great. The cables are discontinued so if you want one call one NOW and have them look in their system on which store still has one. They also had optic cable for $6 dollar too in case you need one. My HDMI cable was the last one at the store on 34th Street. Christmas I bought the Sony-70V upscale player as a Xmas gift to myself. Merry Christmas Krychekxf!!







I can only hope heaven is this clear... My surround sound is Yamaha (excellent). I really never want to leave my place again. My next thing to buy is a ISF calibration (a few more dvds down the road). I went into the service menu and adjusted the what not's following Ken's thread from waaaaaaaaaaaaay back and it helped tremendously with the reds but still would like to see what a professional job looks like. Anyway, sorry folks about the rants and such but to sum this up...If you can afford it...BUY IT! YOU WILL NOT REGRET IT! I'M HAPPY AS A LARK (whatever a lark is?)! Only regret is I didn't buy this sooner......and I wished it had two hdmi slots but I'm not hating.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shadowx117* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi every one I just purchesed this set on Saterday and so far i am very pleased but I do have a few minor problems. One is that I can't find a list of settings that shows optimum viewing for this set as in picture 43 brightness: 50 ect. Please share with me what you use. I posted this concern in the calibration section but have had no response. the second problem is that I also got an Xbox 360 on saterday and when playing Perfect Dark Zero it can be very hard to see at times do to the tv showing some places in the game to be very dark. I am sure that these places should be dark but not so much that you cannot see the enemy. Please help me if you can and thank you in advance.



tjpark1111 will gladly share his settings with you. I'm sure he'll post them shortly to help you out.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krychekxf* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi folks, long time lurker but first time poster.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just had to comment on my purchase recently on this big bad boy the 960. Like most folks I had the dilemma of going PQ over size. My friend has a Samsung 50 inch and the HD is good but the regular cable sucks big time so this helped make my decision a little easier. I went back and forth for about 4 months (while I sold used dvds on Ebay to help pay for this thing..no really I did) and finally took the plunge and all I can say is WOW. *Wowwsie-wowwsie-wow-wow...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as Christopher Walken would say.* The picture is amazing like everyone rants about. I live in Houston and have Time Warner digital cable HD package and HD Net is always incredible. My wife couldn't believe I was paying this much for a tv but she is for sure coming around now. Kinda sucks because before she would watch her shows in the bedroom which left my shows for the living room but now I have to watch (shudder thinking about it) Watching Jordan in HD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . HD still doesn't improve this show btw. Anyway, just wanted to say whoever is thinking of pulling the trigger please do not hesitate.
> 
> 
> I bought mine from Circuit City for $1,800 but that was for the tv (opened box but they still treat as new), extended 3 yr warrantee, stand and delivery. I bought a cheap $13 dollar HDMI cable from Radio Shack and the picture is great. The cables are discontinued so if you want one call one NOW and have them look in their system on which store still has one. They also had optic cable for $6 dollar too in case you need one. My HDMI cable was the last one at the store on 34th Street. Christmas I bought the Sony-70V upscale player as a Xmas gift to myself. Merry Christmas Krychekxf!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can only hope heaven is this clear... My surround sound is Yamaha (excellent). I really never want to leave my place again. My next thing to buy is a ISF calibration (a few more dvds down the road). I went into the service menu and adjusted the what not's following Ken's thread from waaaaaaaaaaaaay back and it helped tremendously with the reds but still would like to see what a professional job looks like. Anyway, sorry folks about the rants and such but to sum this up...If you can afford it...BUY IT! YOU WILL NOT REGRET IT! I'M HAPPY AS A LARK (whatever a lark is?)! Only regret is I didn't buy this sooner......and I wished it had two hdmi slots but I'm not hating.



Congrats on your new toy! I don't think there is any set on the market that can touch it. In fact, I was skimming through a magazine dedicated to HD and saw the 960 as one of the ten most popular sets sold the past year. It also had a rating of 8.1, highest of any of those ten listed.


My first reaction was like your's but I was lucky to experience it twice! Of course it was my luck to get the 960 as my caterat matured and began affecting my vision. I could still tell it had a superb picture. Anyway, the caterat was removed last week and my vision became 20-20. After 24 hours I was able to remove the patch over the eye and view the 960 for the first time with perfect vision. My eyeball almost popped out! It was a mind-boggling experience just like the day it first arrived. Dejevu can be cool! And, I didn't need to make any further adjustments.


The moral of this story: 960 owners must have their eyes checked on a regular basis - good eyesight is as important as a properly tweaked set so to experience its full glory.


----------



## PowerON




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kny3twalker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I believe Crutchfield has them in stock
> 
> they also are known for their great service, support, true authorized sony dealer etc...
> 
> 
> I have ordered from both them and directly from sonystyle
> 
> both gave top notch service and customer care
> 
> 
> as far as who was the online store, who was it?
> 
> 
> it is important you inform the others members so no one else makes the same mistake
> 
> 
> thanks



I was afraid to mention the name of the online merchant because I didn't want to make it look like I was smearing them. The name of the reseller was Palm Beach Electronics. In the end, they did the right thing, but I could never get a straight answer out of them, and I felt like they were stringing me along so they wouldn't lose the sale. One good thing I can say though, is once I informed them I wanted to cancel the order, they processed the refund right after I made that call, which I do respect. But on the other hand, telling me the TV shipped when it really hadn't, telling me they didn't know if they even had the TV in stock, etc, was totally ridiculous.


----------



## sphinx99

What's the consensus on purchasing a XBR960 display model? I know of one for around $1300 OTD that's been a floor model with about ~ 6 months display time... Jan 2005 build date. I did look at the set and convergence, color purity, geometry all seemed pretty good... not perfect but I wasn't sure exactly how "perfect" I should expect it to be. Worth the while or not?


I really want to pick up one of these sets in the next month or less....


----------



## Tmansdc

oh yeah!


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tmansdc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> oh yeah!



Oh no!




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sphinx99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What's the consensus on purchasing a XBR960 display model? I know of one for around $1300 OTD that's been a floor model with about ~ 6 months display time... Jan 2005 build date. I did look at the set and convergence, color purity, geometry all seemed pretty good... not perfect but I wasn't sure exactly how "perfect" I should expect it to be. Worth the while or not?
> 
> 
> I really want to pick up one of these sets in the next month or less....



Don't do it.


No, you don't buy a 6 month burned in floor model! Never! Just think about how many people have touched it, messed around with it, and how many hours it's been burned in torch mode for the last 6 months.


----------



## fred33

Hi,

just thought I would add my experience on my SONY XBR 960.

I bought mine through Crutchfield one year ago.

Since that time I have used calibration cd's and gone into the service mode.

I had a SONY service 'rep' come out to take a look a the small screw ups I did.

He checked it out and then said something was wrong with the screen and he would have to ordre a 400 dollar part but would put it under waranty.

After he left I went back into the service mode, moved a few numbers...asked some questions on here, and my TV is working fine again.

SO, the service guy messed up!...so much for SONY reps!!

I am waiting to hear back from a "trained" ISF calibrator!!


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fred33* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> just thought I would add my experience on my SONY XBR 960.
> 
> I bought mine through Crutchfield one year ago.
> 
> Since that time I have used calibration cd's and gone into the service mode.
> 
> I had a SONY service 'rep' come out to take a look a the small screw ups I did.
> 
> He checked it out and then said something was wrong with the screen and he would have to ordre a 400 dollar part but would put it under waranty.
> 
> After he left I went back into the service mode, moved a few numbers...asked some questions on here, and my TV is working fine again.
> 
> SO, the service guy messed up!...so much for SONY reps!!
> 
> I am waiting to hear back from a "trained" ISF calibrator!!



That's the kind of episode that made me immediately not even consider calling a Sony tech and going straight to where it can get done right, no questions asked: ISF.


----------



## fred33

Oh, and I might add....I called the so called sony rep back, told him the pic was fine and that I had a friend move some numbers. He then asked me which ones! He did NOT know......can you imagine?


----------



## HonestAbe52

This TV, oh my god, oh my god. Awesome, especially after ISF calibration.


Now forgive me for stating the obvious but you CAN PLUG YOUR COMPUTER INTO THIS PUPPY. May Mac laptop, is fine but needs more RAM, but already has the plugs.


Downloaded some video from iTunes, set the TV in 640 x 480 mode, and played it fine. Got a cheap 10 foot DVI to HDMI cable online, plus stereo plugs.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...lance&n=172282 
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...Fencoding=UTF8 


Now can download HD trailers, shorts, everything, even BBC video streams (kind of blocky but still) and play them on the TV, not squinting at a tiny window.


Many HD ********** downloads if you want to go there...


Also, to remind you all - YOU CAN RECORD HD OFF THIS PUPPY. It sends the ATSC tuner transport stream out the iLink port. Need a 4 pin to 6 pin Firewire cable to plug it into the Mac, and the Virtual DVHS software from the Apple Firewire SDK

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...lance&n=172282 
http://developer.apple.com/sdk/#FireWireX 


Rule of thumb HD is about 9 gigs per hour, so you may need another drive.


And finally, again, restating the obvious - this means you can get HD test patterns to calibrate yourself if you so choose. From another AVS Forum thread, test patterns and an application to play them back:

http://www.w6rz.net/ 
http://www.videolan.org/vlc/ 


Just when you thought it couldn't get any better...I'll update when I have hooked a PC up, meanwhile check the HTPC threads.


----------



## gigaguy

I'm very interested in copying HD content to a PC hard drive from my 960 iLink port for playback on my 960, but I know nothing about what software is needed on a PC. I've read some over at the HTPC forum but it's data overload. still reading.


----------



## HonestAbe52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gigaguy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm very interested in copying HD content to a PC hard drive from my 960 iLink port for playback on my 960, but I know nothing about what software is needed on a PC. I've read some over at the HTPC forum but it's data overload. still reading.


 http://www.videohelp.com/tools?tool=CapDVHS


----------



## sphinx99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No, you don't buy a 6 month burned in floor model! Never! Just think about how many people have touched it, messed around with it, and how many hours it's been burned in torch mode for the last 6 months.



I have thought of these things and was hoping for a more specific answer. Can these televisions not take that kind of abuse? In my experience, a well-designed CRT should be able to absorb 10,000 hours of display time without much degradation of the picture. Does the 960 have a shorter-than-normal shelf-life, such that getting one off the shelf for 40% off with say 1,000 hours running time is a bad move? I wouldn't buy a front projector for exactly the reason you stated, but I tend to believe that CRTs are a little more durable.


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sphinx99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have thought of these things and was hoping for a more specific answer. Can these televisions not take that kind of abuse? In my experience, a well-designed CRT should be able to absorb 10,000 hours of display time without much degradation of the picture. Does the 960 have a shorter-than-normal shelf-life, such that getting one off the shelf for 40% off with say 1,000 hours running time is a bad move? I wouldn't buy a front projector for exactly the reason you stated, but I tend to believe that CRTs are a little more durable.



I personally wouldn't, but I tend to lean toward new items across the board (e.g., cars). Is it worth the premium? I think different people have different answers. But... back to the question at hand:

*- The set most likely been exposed to more than 1000 hours of running time in the sense that units ship with "Vivid" mode turned on. This combined with "amped" setings for brigtness, etc. may have aged the set beyond what it normally would see in 1000 hours, in a home.

*- Physical wear and tear has probably been bad as well. Think of the endless parade of people on Saturdays... pushing buttons, opening the control panel cover, etc. etc.

*- Do you think the night cleaning crew has been using approved materials for the screen? More likely someone running through with industrial brand Windex and a rag, no?

*- You may find that your estimate of 40% savings is a little high. There are some great deals out there right now... just make sure to buy from an authorized dealer.


In the end you have to decide if the savings is worth the potential risk. Could be a great deal... could be a few extra headaches. Whatever you decide, good luck.


----------



## PowerON




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sphinx99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What's the consensus on purchasing a XBR960 display model? I know of one for around $1300 OTD that's been a floor model with about ~ 6 months display time... Jan 2005 build date. I did look at the set and convergence, color purity, geometry all seemed pretty good... not perfect but I wasn't sure exactly how "perfect" I should expect it to be. Worth the while or not?
> 
> 
> I really want to pick up one of these sets in the next month or less....



I personally would not buy a floor model. There's too many unanswered questions, and you'll never know what the TV has already been through. Why is the store selling the TV at such a low price? If you do decide to buy it, I would ask as many questions as you can possibly think of, just for peace of mind, if nothing else. But then again, there may be almost nothing wrong with the TV, and you could be staring a great bargain in the face, so its a tough call. I see it as quite a gamble, though.


----------



## campkory




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PowerON* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I personally would not buy a floor model. There's too many unanswered questions, and you'll never know what the TV has already been through. Why is the store selling the TV at such a low price? If you do decide to buy it, I would ask as many questions as you can possibly think of, just for peace of mind, if nothing else. But then again, there may be almost nothing wrong with the TV, and you could be staring a great bargain in the face, so its a tough call. I see it as quite a gamble, though.



I was hesitant, because I also like to have brand new items, but I was able to get a floor model from a circuit city in DE with a 5 year protection plan for an out of pocket cost of about $1340 to me.


Everything seems ok so far, I have a stand being delivered today. This thing is heavy my father came up and we were carrying it in and he had to stop and I kinda dropped it a bit (maybe from a foot, not real hard and I went down with it). It just kinda bumped on the soft ground outside a bit, seems ok.


I live in PA and they had a floor model at a store closer to me and it was $100 less, but I was told circuit city price their open box items based on the condition of the item and after tax it would have only been like $20 less.


I'm not sure I made the right decision versus buying it from sony or cruthfield for $1900, but time will tell. The tv looked GREAT in the store before I took it home. After I get it set on the stand today Ill begin to try to set it up properly.


It didnt come with the original remote, but I was able to order one for about $35 shipped at an online store.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sphinx99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What's the consensus on purchasing a XBR960 display model? I know of one for around $1300 OTD that's been a floor model with about ~ 6 months display time... Jan 2005 build date. I did look at the set and convergence, color purity, geometry all seemed pretty good... not perfect but I wasn't sure exactly how "perfect" I should expect it to be. Worth the while or not?
> 
> 
> I really want to pick up one of these sets in the next month or less....



Have to agree with the others who recommend AGAINST purchasing a floor model, for all the reasons stated. The contrast, brightness and color settings were probably all too high and being on consistantly for at least eleven hours a day would a\\make the screen apt to burn-in.


----------



## PowerON




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *campkory* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was hesitant, because I also like to have brand new items, but I was able to get a floor model from a circuit city in DE with a 5 year protection plan for an out of pocket cost of about $1340 to me.
> 
> 
> Everything seems ok so far, I have a stand being delivered today. This thing is heavy my father came up and we were carrying it in and he had to stop and I kinda dropped it a bit (maybe from a foot, not real hard and I went down with it). It just kinda bumped on the soft ground outside a bit, seems ok.



Sounds like the TV wrestled you down to the ground.







Maybe you'll luck out and the TV will work just fine. But I'm sure it can't handle too many straight drops down to the ground, though.


----------



## cardioman

Read most of thread about the "N" now has a new anti-glare coating applied to the tube face where last years PLAIN had a anti glare layer STUCK on the tube face. I am about to purchase this bad boy and would save $100.00 if I got last years anti glare layer set. Can anyone give an opinion on Which to buy? Did the old set suffer brightness because of this glare layer? Sony obviously thought it wise to change. Is it worth the extra $100 to get the "N" model? Any input is appreciated!!


----------



## Biochemlab

I have not seen this in person, but I have read that dust gets between the layers and can not be removed...


----------



## regor13

When was the last 960 made vs when did 960N begin? Mine was made in Sept 05 but my 960 has later serial # than some with posted 960N versions. Interested because of the coating vs layer anti glare thing.


----------



## Shadowx117

Hi everyone I would still like to know what settings you guys use. Also I found the SONY Service Codes for this TV which was posted back a little while and I changed the four settings ryb, rgyb or w/e they were to make it less red tinted from the default to what the codes recomended and then I saved it and exited and when I went to video 5 which my xbox 360 is hooked up to it has a white line down the left side of the screen where 4:3 pictures whould end! WTF? Please help me because when I saw this I was in shock, my brand new TV was perfect and I changed something that many people on this site recomended and now I have a bright white line there! I changed the settings back but the line is still there. On page 99 of this thread another person has the same problem please help us. The line is only visible when in video 5 or when watching tv in 4:3 please if anyone knows anything about a fix reply. Also does tweaking settings in the service menu void the warrantee?


----------



## tchescat2000

I was told I should post this here, so here goes my problem:


I just got this TV lastnight and need some help with a problem. I found that I was not seeing all the horizontal HDTV picture (1080i) that was being broadcasted from my cablebox (HDMI), but found that I was able to fix that by working with MID1 - MDHP, MID1 - MDHS, and MID1 - MDVS.


Now I find that what looks good on 1080i, looks bad on 480i or 480p (screen is too small for the screen, leaves some black on left side of screen), if I work with HSIZ or HPOS it messes with the nice 1080i look. I was able to tell my cablebox to not display in these modes, so that resolved that issue, but my DVD player displays in 480p. My DVD play is in Video 6 and my cable is in video 7 (HDMI). Is there anyway I can fix video 6 (480p) and not effect video 7 (1080i)???


----------



## tchescat2000

Also I'm noticeing lots of noise on the screen. If I turn off my DVD player and am looking at the black screen that the TV generates, it has "snow" in it. Shouldn't this be just a striaght black screen? I was noticing what I thought was a grainy picture on all inputs, but I'm now seeing it's some sort of interference.


Anyone see this before? I didn't have anything hooked to either coax on the back of the TV and was getting real snow on video 1, I just hooked cable to it to take that "real snow" away, but that doesn't seem to have effected the over all background snow issue.


Please help!


----------



## campkory




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PowerON* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sounds like the TV wrestled you down to the ground.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe you'll luck out and the TV will work just fine. But I'm sure it can't handle too many straight drops down to the ground, though.



It barely just bumped, its just fine. All the weight was shifted to me and I only weigh like 140 lbs and coudlnt hold it all.


Does anyone else has the SU-34XBR3 stand. It looks great on it!


----------



## david4455

I ordered my Avia disc on Amazon and it finally arrived a few days ago...I was so excited because now I was going to get "the best picture" without an ISF calibration....I sat down and carefully followed all the instructions and went through most of the test patterns...the result....the numbers on the various video adjustments on my TV ended up almost IDENTICAL to what has been posted here so many times by most of you guys for getting the best picture.... in conclusion...I am just a basic TV watcher who got caught up in the hype of achieving the perfect PQ.... read these posts carefully and follow the suggested video settings of our fellow posters and you don't need to spend the money on the Avia disc....


I meant to add that the PQ is pretty good and seems to get better with each day as the set gets more use....


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *david4455* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I ordered my Avia disc on Amazon and it finally arrived a few days ago...I was so excited because now I was going to get "the best picture" without an ISF calibration....I sat down and carefully followed all the instructions and went through most of the test patterns...the result....the numbers on the various video adjustments on my TV ended up almost IDENTICAL to what has been posted here so many times by most of you guys for getting the best picture.... in conclusion...I am just a basic TV watcher who got caught up in the hype of achieving the perfect PQ.... read these posts carefully and follow the suggested video settings of our fellow posters and you don't need to spend the money on the Avia disc....




That's all good and fine, but unless you are a whiz with the service menu yourself, you still would do well to get an ISF calibration at some point.


----------



## david4455




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's all good and fine, but unless you are a whiz with the service menu yourself, you still would do well to get an ISF calibration at some point.



agreed... and someday I hope to be able to have one done... I guess my point was that at my level of knowledge and TV watching.... I did not find the Avia disc any more helpful than what I have read here....


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *david4455* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> agreed... and someday I hope to be able to have one done... I guess my point was that at my level of knowledge and TV watching.... I did not find the Avia disc any more helpful than what I have read here....



Hats off to the crew here at that rate.


----------



## john.leonard

How do I request a calibration? Do I simply call the Sony Hotline at 1-800-222-7669? Can anyone recommend a good technician in the Atlanta (Peachtree City) area?


----------



## john.leonard

I tried connecting my XBR960 to my computer via DVI-HDMI. My video card is a NVidia Quadro FX1400. The video card detected that it was connected to a Sony HDTV, however I could not get a full screen picture on the XBR960 - my computer display was chopped off both top/bottom and left/right. I played around with various display resolution settings, and dug around in the advanced menu on the video card. However, nothing seemed to work.


Are there recommended computer display settings when connecting to the XBR960? (e.g., 1920x1080, or 1280x1024).


How can I adjust vertical and horizontal scan so that the entire computer display shows on the XBR960?


Any other tips/adjustments/recommendations? Are there other threads to check on this forum?


Thanks!


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *john.leonard* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How do I request a calibration? Do I simply call the Sony Hotline at 1-800-222-7669? Can anyone recommend a good technician in the Atlanta (Peachtree City) area?



Go to the isf webpage and get a list of calibrators in your area. Then go to the Local HDTV forum for your area on AVS and ask for recommendations.


----------



## njt

Had my set ISF calibrated yesterday, and while I have only had a few hours of critical viewing, I am generally pleased. I was apprehensive about having this service done for three reasons:

1. Picture looked awesome already (To my eyes anyway).

2. The price seemed a bit steep.

3. I was worried that I would not be able to "see" a significant difference, as I am far from the most critical viewer on this board.


IMHO, all three concerns were unfounded. The process is a long one (4-6 labor hours) and the equipment they use (aside from looking cool) is very complex... and likely expensive. From those points alone the cost issue has to go out the window. Regarding image improvement... it is beyond significant and even a casual viewer can appreciate. Clarity and color accuracy have gotten better than I thought they could be. Blacks and shadow detail (one of my primary set selection drivers) were nowhere near where they are now.


Throughout the process, I learned about proper measurements and how far the set was off (you will get data tables and charts after the fact). In the end these are just numbers to me, but the end result is clear... a stunning picture improvement. I believe major adjustments were made to the color decoder and convergence had to be adjusted significantly as well. At points I would lose him, as he was able to swing through service and user menu adjustmens (occasionally simultaneously!) ala Jim Carey in Cable Guy







. Seriously though, the care these guys take (e.g., moving from 1 foot away from the screen, head scanning every inch of the screen... back to the equipment and then back to the recliner) is really impressive. You can tell during calibration and conversation that these guys are passionate about what they do.


I have only one disapontment and one point of interest after the process:

*- My disapointment is that the geometry is still not flawless. I want to point out that the issue was minascule before calibration, and and is even less noticable now. This is only noticable when looking at menu item. I only point this out, for one reason. My guy was clear that he only adjusts geometry via the service menu. He did not adjust magnets as many other calibrators do. I thought others might appreciate this, as they can make experience in this area, a sticking point during calibrator selection.

*- My point of interest is one area of the calibration that I disagreed with the calibrator. After the calibration my "streaking" issue had retruned on DVD. This led to a short discussion of the issue history and the settings solution (DVD Player Progressive = off, Sharpness = 0, DRC Palette = R73/C83) which addressed the issue for me. After demonstrating this on scene 26 of the Empire Strikes Back, he agreed and we changed those settings back.


I apologize for the long post, but thought there might be others on the fence out there. Bottom line is that I am very impressed with the PQ improvement and feel the "reality" of images has been greatly enhanced.


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *john.leonard* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How do I request a calibration? Do I simply call the Sony Hotline at 1-800-222-7669? Can anyone recommend a good technician in the Atlanta (Peachtree City) area?



You can call Sony to have a tech dispatched to address any issues. If you are looking for an ISF calibration, search here: http://www.imagingscience.com/isf-trained.cfm


----------



## john.leonard




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Had my set ISF calibrated yesterday, and while I have only had a few hours of critical viewing, I am generally pleased.



Thanks for the quick (and detailed!) response! I really appreciate that you took the time to explain the process and outcomes. At present, I'm investigating technicians in my area.


----------



## fritzenheimer

The consensus of this board seem to argue against buying a floor model. I have an opportunity to buy a floor model only two months out of the box for $998. Should I go for it?


----------



## TCB




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fritzenheimer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The consensus of this board seem to argue against buying a floor model. I have an opportunity to buy a floor model only two months out of the box for $998. Should I go for it?



I would (with an extended warranty). Great price. Grab it (or I will).


----------



## fritzenheimer

How much should one pay for an extended warranty? Can you buy one directly from Sony?


----------



## BHendershot

There is an approx. $350 difference between the KD-34XS955 and the KD-XBR960N. Can anyone help me understand what I'd be getting for the additional $? I have a projector system for movie watching so this purchase will replace our old 27" Trinitron that we use for our typical day-to-day cable TV viewing. Thanks.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BHendershot* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There is an approx. $350 difference between the KD-34XS955 and the KD-XBR960N. Can anyone help me understand what I'd be getting for the additional $? I have a projector system for movie watching so this purchase will replace our old 27" Trinitron that we use for our typical day-to-day cable TV viewing. Thanks.



I-link, twin tuner Picture and picture, a SLIGHTLY different glare screen (whatever you want to call it.) and the DRC settings which, after an ISF Calibration, are things you will never bother with anyways.


Even before an ISF calibration, I found very little use for the DRC's and I think most others feel the same way.


The PIP is something I adore, so that alone was worth it to me.










Outside of that, if thsoe things don't matter to you, get the XS. It's the same exact TV fundamentally.


Do a search of this forum for "XBR960 vs. XS955" or some variant thereof, and you'll see several threads on this subject.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BHendershot* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There is an approx. $350 difference between the KD-34XS955 and the KD-XBR960N. Can anyone help me understand what I'd be getting for the additional $? I have a projector system for movie watching so this purchase will replace our old 27" Trinitron that we use for our typical day-to-day cable TV viewing. Thanks.



I don't believe the 955 has individual settings for each input, like the 960 does. Adjustments for DVDs can be different than those for HD due to the output characteristcs of individual players. Same goes for VHS.


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> I don't believe the 955 has individual settings for each input, like the 960 does. Adjustments for DVDs can be different than those for HD due to the output characteristcs of individual players. Same goes for VHS.



the XS955s have memory mode, so put that out of your mind


----------



## dfitz43




> Quote:
> Can anyone help me understand what I'd be getting for the additional $?



There are also significant differences in the warranties between the XBR960 and XS955, if that is important to you.


XBR960: 2 Year Parts and Labor (2 Years Parts on the Picture Tube)


XS955: 1 Year Parts, 90 Days Labor (2 Years Parts on the Picture Tube)


cheers,

Dave


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dfitz43* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There are also significant differences in the warranties between the XBR960 and XS955, if that is important to you.
> 
> 
> XBR960: 2 Year Parts and Labor (2 Years Parts on the Picture Tube)
> 
> 
> XS955: 1 Year Parts, 90 Days Labor (2 Years Parts on the Picture Tube)
> 
> 
> cheers,
> 
> Dave




It's a pity that Sony didn't view the XBR like their ES products: a 5 year warranty out of the box. That would be impressive.


----------



## POWERFUL

Q you know what they want you to do: buy the extended warranty!


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kny3twalker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> the XS955s have memory mode, so put that out of your mind




I stand corrected


----------



## Dr. Spankenstein

Hello all and Happy New Year,


I am on my *4th* 34xs955 (sorry for being an interloper, ther is no "Official" thread for my kind.







) from a local store (Nebraska Furnature Mart). There always is one problem or another with the set. The first one had patchy convergence problems and edge ghosting, the second had the same patchy convergence and a sketchy tuner, the third had the same convergence issue and some major "mosquito effect", macroblocking and edge ghosting.

The thing I am most scrutinizing about is the aperture grill on all of the sets. There always are areas of bending/warping on the edges and corners that correspond to the areas of convergence problems. I also question why, no matter what the source material (HD cable, HD OTA, DVD via component, XBOX 360 via component) some of the sets show that macroblocking/"mosquito effect" and edge ghosting. Is this normal? Am I expecting too much from this set? Everyone else seems quite tickled with theirs....why can't I be!!!







(WHAA, WHAA, WHAA!)

At this point, I'm wondering if they happen to be exchanging my set with someone elses return. The one I received today has streaks on the screen where someone attempted to clean it and left too much cleaner behind, a chip off the right side foot and a scrape along the top edge of the input cut-out. They don't come from the factory like that, _do they_ ?

Should I put it into Sony's hands from here on out before my 90 days expires? Anyone have any experience with Sony and their interest in making things right?

Any input would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Shadowx117

Hi everyone I would still like to know what settings you guys use. Also I found the SONY Service Codes for this TV which was posted back a little while and I changed the four settings ryb, rgyb or w/e they were to make it less red tinted from the default to what the codes recomended and then I saved it and exited and when I went to video 5 which my xbox 360 is hooked up to it has a white line down the left side of the screen where 4:3 pictures whould end! WTF? Please help me because when I saw this I was in shock, my brand new TV was perfect and I changed something that many people on this site recomended and now I have a bright white line there! I changed the settings back but the line is still there. On page 99 of this thread another person has the same problem please help us. The line is only visible when in video 5 or when watching tv in 4:3 please if anyone knows anything about a fix reply. Also does tweaking settings in the service menu void the warrantee?

I would really appreiciate a response.


----------



## ragingd

Hey guys one quick question, I have the 34xbr910, is the picture quality better with the xbr960? Do you think I should upgrade to the xbr960 from the 910.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shadowx117* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi everyone I would still like to know what settings you guys use. Also I found the SONY Service Codes for this TV which was posted back a little while and I changed the four settings ryb, rgyb or w/e they were to make it less red tinted from the default to what the codes recomended and then I saved it and exited and when I went to video 5 which my xbox 360 is hooked up to it has a white line down the left side of the screen where 4:3 pictures whould end! WTF? Please help me because when I saw this I was in shock, my brand new TV was perfect and I changed something that many people on this site recomended and now I have a bright white line there! I changed the settings back but the line is still there. On page 99 of this thread another person has the same problem please help us. The line is only visible when in video 5 or when watching tv in 4:3 please if anyone knows anything about a fix reply. Also does tweaking settings in the service menu void the warrantee?
> 
> I would really appreiciate a response.



Reposted without permission.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I also used "vivid" for a while, sharply decreasing the manufacturer's settings, but after reading so many posts I went into "Pro" and after making the proper adjustments had an even more beautiful picture.
> 
> 
> Just know I've found that settings differ between HD, DVD, Digital Cable and VHS. All who have posted their settings are close, however, these are mine for each of those four inputs.
> 
> 
> THE first number is for Digital Cable, the second for VHS, the third for DVD (used a THX optomizer) and the fourth for DVI.
> 
> 
> Mode: Pro on all
> 
> Picture: 37, 33, 30, 33
> 
> Brightness: 22, 28, 31, 21
> 
> Color: 26, 27, 35, 34
> 
> Hue: All R-5
> 
> Sharpness: 28, 26, 33, 35
> 
> Color Temp: Neutral on all
> 
> Clear Edge: Medium, low, high, high
> 
> DRC Mode: Interlacd, Cinemotion, Cinemotion
> 
> Color Axix: Monitor on all
> 
> DRC Pallete: r55/c61, r73/c83, r87/c85
> 
> 
> As everyone else has stated, the only settings you should settle into are the ones that you like best. As you have read, many find better picture quality with the clear edge off while I incorporate it for mine. It is all subjective.
> 
> 
> Hope you can use the above as starting points. Please let us know what you came up with.
> 
> 
> It would be great if we were able to compile stats on all the settings submitted to get a consensus of what the "average" setting is on this thread.
> 
> 
> Take care,
> 
> Joe


----------



## En Sabur Nur




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ragingd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey guys one quick question, I have the 34xbr910, is the picture quality better with the xbr960? Do you think I should upgrade to the xbr960 from the 910.



For what it's worth to you, I don't own one yet, but a highly respected reviewer for "The Perfect Vision"(Randy Tomlinson), who used to own a 910 and has professionally calibrated scores of both models, said the cheaper 960 was even better than the 910. Why? He said the 960 had better geometry, a more accurate factory-calibrated grayscale and a far more accurate color decoder. Not to mention, the 960 has more features, like the built-in OTA/Digital Cable tuner.


----------



## HonestAbe52

Hey happy XBR960 owners,


If you are around, I'll be at the Equilibrium booth #113 with our client/server software for video processing. Ask for "The Cleaner", if you can make it - see you there!


----------



## Kristopher79

Let me chime in with my settings....


Ever since I began following this forum, I keep seeing ppl posting there settings which are in "pro" mode. While I have to respect these guys for doing so, I'm just different I suppose.


Ya see, I've been spoiled by plasma and modern lcd sets that I have come to a liking with the vividness of those displays. Yet, they don't offer the resolution nor sharpness that my XBR960 does (for the most part). So with that being said, I'm enjoying my XBR more and more by the day and for all who wants a custom setting that "mimicks" the top-of-the-line plasma/lcd then I recommend you give mine a shot. Keep in mind, even "mimicking" plasmas still won't overdrown the image on this set because it still is a tube. That you can't change! So imho with the settings that I'm currently using I can have the best of both worlds. The vivid colors of the XBR LCD and the super sharpness of the tube.


Of course these settings aren't for everyone, in fact not many here won't like them since there true videophiles and demand that "certain" look. But I feel that most of the settings I see here are too dark. Again, my opinion.



Mode - standard

Picture - 48

Brightness - 31

Color - 31

Hue - 0

Sharpness - 20

Color Temp - Neutral

Clear Edge VM - off

DRC Palette - default

Color Axis - monitor


This is being used with a Hitachi P303 progresssive scan dvd player via component. I don't think the picture is gonna get that much better than a true 480p coming in from a well mastered dvd. Actually, from any dvd as it seems to make my old ones come alive.


I don't know about other sources, but if you watch dvds via component with a 480p player then its worth giving it a shot if you are like me and find a dark picture being subpar. Not saying there not accurate, but not to my liking. I'm sure all the "pro" ppl are gonna lunge at me but maybe someone can benefit from this.


Take care


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kristopher79* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Let me chime in with my settings....
> 
> 
> Of course these settings aren't for everyone, in fact not many here won't like them since there true videophiles and demand that "certain" look. But I feel that most of the settings I see here are too dark. Again, my opinion.
> 
> 
> Mode - standard
> 
> Picture - 48
> 
> Brightness - 31
> 
> Color - 31
> 
> Hue - 0
> 
> Sharpness - 20
> 
> Color Temp - Neutral
> 
> Clear Edge VM - off
> 
> DRC Palette - default
> 
> Color Axis - monitor
> 
> 
> Take care



It's your TV, purchased with your money, to make you happy. Set it up how ever you want and don't let anyone tell you otherwise. If you like the settings then it's the best for you.


----------



## Kristopher79

Thank you John


----------



## mav63




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mav63* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Technician came out and replaced the B-Y Board, no joy. He said next they will try the "Q Box". If I have no HDTV over new years, that will not be good.
> 
> They will try to get the Q Box replaced by Friday.




Yesterday, 01/05, tech came out and replaced the MZ board. My problem is fixed. I sure missed my HDTV.

This TV is awesome(when it's working)!!!!


----------



## patsan

I have a question I hope someone can answer. In all fairness, I haven't read thru the 101 pages.

I've had the Sony for 1+ years. Last week, we got a new 61", and moved the Sony into a bedroom.

I just got it hooked up with the STB and for the life of me, I don't know how to get the "Video 5" off the screen. I thought it would just disappear on it's own, but it isn't.

Anyone know how I can do this? TIA.


----------



## RobMeyer1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *patsan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a question I hope someone can answer. In all fairness, I haven't read thru the 101 pages.
> 
> I've had the Sony for 1+ years. Last week, we got a new 61", and moved the Sont into a bedroom.
> 
> I just got it hooked up with the STB and for the life of me, I don't know how to get the "Video 5" off the screen. I thought it would just disappear on it's own, but it isn't.
> 
> Anyone know how I can do this? TIA.



Hi Pat,


Press the "Display" button on the lower right of the remote and it should go away.


----------



## patsan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobMeyer1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Pat,
> 
> 
> Press the "Display" button on the lower right of the remote and it should go away.



Thanks Rob....I just tried it and it's not working.









It is so annoying. We didn't have this showing when we were using it before.


I tried all kinds of settings with the cable box and the television itself, with no luck.

When I first turn the set on, it will also show "full screen" on the lower left hand corner, but that will disappear...yet the "video 5" display stays.










Everything else with the set seems to be working. There was nothing wrong with the television in the first place....we just decided to get a large screen.


----------



## patsan

Rob, I got it to work!! On the Sony remote, I first pressed the "tv" button, then "display" and it finally went away!

THANK YOU!!! I can now enjoy watching!


----------



## mahicks

Ok...I've finally got my stand for the bedroom!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!


Now I can finally purchase the 34xbr!!!


Does anyone know of any deals on the web or were I might get the best deal?


I should have jumped on the ABT deal last week for $1500.


Now it's $1899. I'm willing to pay that for the unit, but it would have been nice to save the $400.


Anyone have any ideas??



Thanks in advance!


----------



## PhilipO38

Guys, i'm wondering why on some sites the 960 is listed as XBR960N and others it's simply the XBR960?


Even at Sony website, it states the XBR960N, but the user manual says just 960. I'm guessing it the exact same, but i'm not sure why sometimes it's listed with the "N" last.


TIA


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PhilipO38* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Guys, i'm wondering why on some sites the 960 is listed as XBR960N and others it's simply the XBR960?
> 
> 
> Even at Sony website, it states the XBR960N, but the user manual says just 960. I'm guessing it the exact same, but i'm not sure why sometimes it's listed with the "N" last.
> 
> 
> TIA



Virtually the same set. I believe the newer "N" version has a different type of glare protection. Instead of a sheet I believe the protection is now applied to the glass of the screen. There are quite a few posts on the topic a few pages up. If you use the Search this thread feature, you'll find all of the specifics.


----------



## RYCeT




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mahicks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok...I've finally got my stand for the bedroom!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!
> 
> 
> Now I can finally purchase the 34xbr!!!
> 
> 
> Does anyone know of any deals on the web or were I might get the best deal?
> 
> 
> I should have jumped on the ABT deal last week for $1500.
> 
> 
> Now it's $1899. I'm willing to pay that for the unit, but it would have been nice to save the $400.
> 
> 
> Anyone have any ideas??
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance!




B&H got it for $1400 + shipping


----------



## PeteH579

Well I am awaiting a ABT shipment which is 1 day away.

Monday 9 2006.

Will let everyone know the out come.


----------



## Biochemlab

Video Only in Tukwila, WA has them on the shelf for $1,349... I got them down to $1,216 for a 34xbr960.... Might be worth giving them a call.


----------



## Ladd

I'm pretty sure this can't be done, but thought I would ask anyway -- any way to get Closed Caption text to automatically appear on-screen when MUTE is used?


----------



## Sam Johnson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sam Johnson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just found this thread. Have searched for mention of this problem but found nothing on it, so here goes:
> 
> 
> Purchased my 960 11/04 and have been extremely pleased with it until recently. About 5-6 weeks ago, began experiencing severely degraded picture quality upon first power-up in the morning (wavy vertical lines and much interference, as if receiving a weak station over antenna -- but I'm on cable.) Present on all channels. Power off, then on again and problem is gone. No trace of similar problems simultaneously on any other TVs. About the same time this started, I thought the degausser was louder than usual at power on. When I power off/power on to clear the problem, degausser is much, much quieter than it was at initial power-on. For several weeks, this only happened at the first power-on of the day. Lately, it has happened occasionally at subsequent power-ons. Have checked the diagnostic screen and it shows all zeros (i.e., no problems noted). Anyone else have this problem? Would appreciate any suggestions before calling in the tech. Thanks.




I posted the above back in October. By Christmas, the problem had become more than a nuisance, so I finally called the local franchise handling warranty repairs. The owner (it's a mom-and-pop shop) knew immediately what the problem was, ordered the right parts without ever seeing the set, and the parts (two of them) came in last week and were installed the same day! Problem solved!! It was the tuner. So, if anyone has a similar problem with their XBR, run one additional check: while the picture is still poor, check the picture quality from the VCR or DVD feed (i.e., avoid the tuner) and, if it's fine, it is likely to be the same problem described above. Hope this helps someone else.


----------



## Sam Johnson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mahicks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This model is my first choice for a bedroom TV. Unfortunately, the matching stand is nowhere near tall enough for our raised bed.
> 
> 
> Does anyone know of a stand that is 25" or taller, or any idea for that matter??
> 
> 
> This is the tv that I really want, I've just been searching in vain for a stand tall enough, that's big enough, that will hold the weight of the tv.




(If you have already gotten a reply, I apologize for wasting your time. I just saw this post.) This one has everything you want...and it swivels!

Tech Craft model S-AV37X

Holds up to 240 pounds and is 26.6 inches high. I have one, and it is great!!


----------



## BHendershot

A little OT but related. Was wondering if anyone considered the 4:3 KD-36SX955 when doing their research. I realize it's the old-school screen ratio but when displaying letter boxed 16:9 material the diagonal measurement of the image is 33". It doesn't have PIP but appears to have most if not all of the other features of the 34xbr.


----------



## PhilipO38

How do you know if your XBR960 is the original 960 or the newer 960N's?('n' for the removal of glare filter)?


Iv'e looked in back of my XBR960 and all it says is XBR960, and on the manaul it states the same..when it gives the serial number as well.


Also, while i bought this at the end of November of 05', it was made in May of 05'(is this supposingly a bad build month?, as a few have stated here), and i'm wondering if Best Buy slipped me the older 960 model...instead of the 960N, to get rid of it.


Do the 960N's have it listed on the back of the tv(where the serial number is) or must i call Sony to find out?


Or is there a specific way way to tell the original 960's from the 960N, buy the chassis or color or something else?


TIA


(This tv looks identicle to the 960N picture on Sony's website, btw)


----------



## mahicks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sam Johnson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> (If you have already gotten a reply, I apologize for wasting your time. I just saw this post.) This one has everything you want...and it swivels!
> 
> Tech Craft model S-AV37X
> 
> Holds up to 240 pounds and is 26.6 inches high. I have one, and it is great!!




Thank you for the reply but I found a local cabinet make to build me one hell of a dresser that's 40" tall by 22" deep by 39" wide, out of solid wood. I pick it up on Friday and it ways as much as the TV does! It's beautiful though, and certainly pleases the wife factor!


----------



## youth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PhilipO38* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How do you know if your XBR960 is the original 960 or the newer 960N's?('n' for the removal of glare filter)?
> 
> 
> Iv'e looked in back of my XBR960 and all it says is XBR960, and on the manaul it states the same..when it gives the serial number as well.



I bought mine in mid December & it has a manufactured date of November '05. The box it came in along with the stickers on the manual & the back of the TV show the model number with the "N" suffix. Was gonna originally buy from Circuit City when they had a sale on it, but their website only shows the 960 & when called they likely said it's only a 960 so I hesitated. Luckily ABT Electronics had a lower price at the time & they listed the TV as a 960N so I bought it from them.


g'day

youth


----------



## PhilipO38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *youth* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I bought mine in mid December & it has a manufactured date of November '05. The box it came in along with the stickers on the manual & the back of the TV show the model number with the "N" suffix. Was gonna originally buy from Circuit City when they had a sale on it, but their website only shows the 960 & when called they likely said it's only a 960 so I hesitated. Luckily ABT Electronics had a lower price at the time & they listed the TV as a 960N so I bought it from them.
> 
> 
> g'day
> 
> youth




Damn, i feel like i got the shaft now. The 960 was listed for $1899 at B.Buy and $1799 at C.City(at that time), and i got B.Buy to drop the price to $1599.(after going back and fourth to try to price match each other).


Did i get the shaft here..because i think i can still return this XBR960 for a refund or exchange until the Jan 15th.


And is this XBR960(no 'N') a bad choice instead of the XBR960, as i know Sony removed the glare filter in these original 960's for a good reason.


And if i decide to keep it(it's not so easy to return a 200lb tv), can i get Sony to remove the filter themsleves under warranty, since it may become an issue in the future?


TIA..wow, i love this tv, but i fell like i got ripped off. (or maybe in this small area the best anyone has is the 960 and not the 960N...?)


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PhilipO38* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> And is this XBR960(no 'N') a bad choice instead of the XBR960, as i know Sony removed the glare filter in these original 960's for a good reason.



What was the "good" reason?


----------



## PhilipO38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What was the "good" reason?



From some earlier replies in this thread, it seems the original 960's had a glare filter, but Sony removed it with the "N" lineup, because of some thought that dust would build up in between the filter and the screen.


If anyone knows if this is indeed correct or not, please reply back here.


TIA


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PhilipO38* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> From some earlier replies in this thread, it seems the original 960's had a glare filter, but Sony removed it with the "N" lineup, because of some thought that dust would build up in between the filter and the screen.
> 
> 
> If anyone knows if this is indeed correct or not, please reply back here.
> 
> 
> TIA



I have the original XBR960, not "N", and I don't have any dust problems.


----------



## patsan

I don't have any dust problems either.


----------



## PhilipO38

You know, i'm sure the original 960 was just replaced with the newer "N" models for the sake of Sony playing it on the safe side. However, the sales rep at B.Buy stated he would grab one from the main inventory..of which there were 50+ in stock, and i cannot see how he did so if they shipped me one that had a May 05' build date.


I'm really feeling po'ed now, somewhat at myself(for not making sure there was another model of the 960) and at the sales rep at B. Buy for simply lying. I have until the 24th to return this, and while i love this TV..it's the best i ever seen in-store, i just hate getting screwed.


What do you guys think..let it be and enjoy it anyway, or return it? Or go in store and compain and maybe they will refund some of the purchase price for the 'non truth'?


Believe it or not, the 960 is the model they still carry and have on display still at both B.Buy and C.City in this area(Syracuse, NY), and i think alot has to do with the fact this is not a large city and the demand is just not here.


Your thoughts, because i have about two weeks to return this or not. And if i do, i'm wondering if any major retailers in this area even stock the 960N.


Is it a big deal that they shipped me the May 05' (non "N") XBR960, or are these identicle anyway, and it's no big deal?


What would you do in this situation?


btw: At the time of purchase B.Buy had it selling for $1899 and C.City for $1799, i got it for $1599(after price matching back and forth), and two weeks later C.City had dropped the price to $1630(yeah, that much) but it was not in stock in the area. A couple weeks back it was finally back in stock at C.City, but the price raised back up to $1800. So both stores are selling it for $1800 or more, currently.


TIA


----------



## tkmedia2

If you have a perfectly working set I'd just keep it. You never know if another set has convergence/geometry problems.


----------



## PhilipO38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tkmedia2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you have a perfectly working set I'd just keep it. You never know if another set has convergence/geometry problems.



Great point, thanks.


I'm not sure if it's perfect, but from HD broadcasts and 360 gaming and DVD watching, it seems like it has little if no geometric problems. I'm leaning on just accepting it..it is the same as the 'N' model and i think i actually like that darker look with the glare filter..so maybe it was a blessing?


One thing is a no brainer, is that i will get this calibrated professionally in the next week or so, so at least i'll have the peace of mind to know it has no major issues to worry about.(at this time).


----------



## PeteH579




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PeteH579* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well I am awaiting a ABT shipment which is 1 day away.
> 
> Monday 9 2006.
> 
> Will let everyone know the out come.



I'm in Northern NJ.


It just arrived via truck. I gave the driver $30 to help me get it into the house

and on the cabinet. Best $30 I have spent. The box was in absolutely perfect

condition . Looked better than most boxes I see when picking up something.

It was made in October 05 ....Hecho in Mexico.


I haven't turned it on yet, letting it come up to room temp. It was about 45F.

in the truck.


I'm amazed that something as obvious as a huge box with SONY HD TV on it.

made it all the way from Chicago without any incidents.


Will see soon.


----------



## PhilipO38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PeteH579* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm in Northern NJ.
> 
> 
> It just arrived via truck. I gave the driver $30 to help me get it into the house
> 
> and on the cabinet. Best $30 I have spent. The box was in absolutely perfect
> 
> condition . Looked better than most boxes I see when picking up something.
> 
> It was made in October 05 ....Hecho in Mexico.
> 
> 
> I haven't turned it on yet, letting it come up to room temp. It was about 45F.
> 
> in the truck.
> 
> 
> I'm amazed that something as obvious as a huge box with SONY HD TV on it.
> 
> made it all the way from Chicago without any incidents.
> 
> 
> Will see soon.



Good luck..and i'm glad you got the 960N(i presume), as it's an amazing HDTV that still blows my mind after some 4 weeks of having it.


You should get it calibrated as well, professionally that is.


----------



## gigaguy

To brighten the screen is what I read. A lot of people complained the 960 screen was too dark, but it just takes tweaking the settings.


----------



## PeteH579




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PhilipO38* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Good luck..and i'm glad you got the 960N(i presume), as it's an amazing HDTV that still blows my mind after some 4 weeks of having it.
> 
> 
> You should get it calibrated as well, professionally that is.



Wow!! It works great with ordinary directv. The screen is smaller than my

beloved 32XBR100 (which started getting weird last month) .


Yes, its a 960N. Serial number matches box and invoice.

( What suspicious people we be when we get a good deal










My hats off to ABT. Fast transaction, great shipper. The trucking company

put their own sealing tape on the box.


Well next stop is to get something in HD. I'm upgrading my satellite

receiver next week.


SD looks fine just smaller than "Old Blue" the 32xbr100.


Thanks to all who provided this great info on this forum. Its why I took the leap.


----------



## joebxr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PhilipO38* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What do you guys think..let it be and enjoy it anyway, or return it? Or go in store and compain and maybe they will refund some of the purchase price for the 'non truth'?
> 
> 
> Believe it or not, the 960 is the model they still carry and have on display still at both B.Buy and C.City in this area(Syracuse, NY), and i think alot has to do with the fact this is not a large city and the demand is just not here.
> 
> 
> Your thoughts, because i have about two weeks to return this or not. And if i do, i'm wondering if any major retailers in this area even stock the 960N.



I was at Ra-Lin today. Display model on floor is last one, but they ar expecting new shipment any day. I would assume it will be the 960N. They are great to deal with and will beat any price around. Try them.


----------



## deckels

My 960 will be delivered tomorrow. This is not only my first HDTV, but I also got a cheapish surround setup to go with it. My question is how to best set up the audio on a 960. I see that it has digital optical audio out. Can I plug everything: DVR 942, xbox, and someday soon xbox360 into the xbr960 and then do one audio out with the digital optical to the surround sound tuner? That seems like the easiest way to go, but am I losing the surround sound or anything else by going through the TV? Does it make more sense to send all video to the TV and all audio to the tuner?


Thanks for any help. I've tried my best to find the answer to this on the forums and on other sites, but with no luck. I have a feeling it's either a stupid question or too basic for most people to ask.


----------



## joebxr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *deckels* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help. I've tried my best to find the answer to this on the forums and on other sites, but with no luck. I have a feeling it's either a stupid question or too basic for most people to ask.



If you go to the Sony site you can download a pdf copy of the operator's manual. Pages 23-44 describe connection options.


----------



## triumph66




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kristopher79* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Let me chime in with my settings....
> 
> 
> Ever since I began following this forum, I keep seeing ppl posting there settings which are in "pro" mode. While I have to respect these guys for doing so, I'm just different I suppose.
> 
> 
> Ya see, I've been spoiled by plasma and modern lcd sets that I have come to a liking with the vividness of those displays. Yet, they don't offer the resolution nor sharpness that my XBR960 does (for the most part). So with that being said, I'm enjoying my XBR more and more by the day and for all who wants a custom setting that "mimicks" the top-of-the-line plasma/lcd then I recommend you give mine a shot. Keep in mind, even "mimicking" plasmas still won't overdrown the image on this set because it still is a tube. That you can't change! So imho with the settings that I'm currently using I can have the best of both worlds. The vivid colors of the XBR LCD and the super sharpness of the tube.
> 
> 
> Of course these settings aren't for everyone, in fact not many here won't like them since there true videophiles and demand that "certain" look. But I feel that most of the settings I see here are too dark. Again, my opinion.
> 
> 
> 
> Mode - standard
> 
> Picture - 48
> 
> Brightness - 31
> 
> Color - 31
> 
> Hue - 0
> 
> Sharpness - 20
> 
> Color Temp - Neutral
> 
> Clear Edge VM - off
> 
> DRC Palette - default
> 
> Color Axis - monitor
> 
> 
> Take care



Hey Kristopher,


Congrats on picking up the XBR960.


I tried out your settings and I felt compelled to list my own so that you may try them out. I can't guarantee that you will like them more but to me there was more sharpness and clarity with mine.


What I suggest is that you try my settings BUT if you want a brighter picture just try switching between the color temp. settings. You can see that I prefer warm but the neutral and cool may add the additional brightness you are looking for while mainting the clarity of Pro mode.


Mode: Professional


Picture - 32

Brightness - 42

Color - 34

Hue - R1

Sharpness - Min

Color Temp. - Warm

ClearEdge VM - OFF


Color Axis - Monitor


Let me know what you think. For certain Discovery Channel shows in HD I prefer a neutral color temp. but I never use the cool. I think warm provides the most accurate skin tones but sometimes I need the added brightness that neutral provides.


----------



## deckels




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joebxr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you go to the Sony site you can download a pdf copy of the operator's manual. Pages 23-44 describe connection options.



Thank you, gonna go do that now, though I wonder if it will answer my question on the benefits and detriments of putting all the audio through the tv and running one optical cord from the TV to the tuner...


----------



## deckels

Well, the manual wasn't that helpful. It sounds like running all audio into the TV and then out the digital optical cable into the surround sound tuner isn't going to cut it, but I'm not sure. I think the manual said that that would only work for digital content and that anything analog plugged into the TV would have to use different cables to the surround sound tuner. If I'm doing my viewing through DishNetwork and a dvd player, will everything be digital? If some channels are digital and some analog, does the TV know when to route what through which output to the sound sound tuner?


And I'm still left wondering if the surround sound information is lost by routing it through the TV instead of directly to the surround sound tuner...


----------



## PhilipO38

Just to inform about the 'N' models, i just called Sony and they revised/switched to those models in August 05'.


Now i'm real upset at B.Buy for basically lying that they had a inventory of 70 in their main stock and this one would be one of those.


Eithier they are lying or every one in stock was of the older inventory of units.


All i know is, while i got the tv for $300 of the list price, i was lyed to(or it seems) and i hate to be taken for a fool here, so i'm headed to B.Buy this week/weekend and i want some answers, or else this may be returned for a newer model or i'll get a refund and wait until C.City gets these back in stock. Or maybe Raylin or another outlet in the CNY area.


btw: The Sony rep had no idea what the differences are beween the two models.


----------



## POWERFUL




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PeteH579* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well next stop is to get something in HD. I'm upgrading my satellite receiver next week.



Pete the XBR has a ATSC tuner, so pick up an antenna and try and get the NYC locals for some HD content in the meanwhile. You will be amazed with the PQ.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PhilipO38* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just to inform about the 'N' models, i just called Sony and they revised/switched to those models in August 05'.
> 
> 
> Now i'm real upset at B.Buy for basically lying that they had a inventory of 70 in their main stock and this one would be one of those.
> 
> 
> Eithier they are lying or every one in stock was of the older inventory of units.
> 
> 
> All i know is, while i got the tv for $300 of the list price, i was lyed to(or it seems) and i hate to be taken for a fool here, so i'm headed to B.Buy this week/weekend and i want some answers, or else this may be returned for a newer model or i'll get a refund and wait until C.City gets these back in stock. Or maybe Raylin or another outlet in the CNY area.
> 
> 
> btw: The Sony rep had no idea what the differences are beween the two models.



You're making a mountain out of a molehill. Relax and enjoy the TV. Focus all this energy in to getting it set up and calibrated properly and you'll add years to your life.


----------



## PeteH579




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *POWERFUL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Pete the XBR has a ATSC tuner, so pick up an antenna and try and get the NYC locals for some HD content in the meanwhile. You will be amazed with the PQ.



Thanks, I'm in the hills of Sussex County. We only wear shoes on Sunday









I think I need a major antenae.


Note:


The "Wife-y" came home and it was NOT a good time. Now she has objected

to every TV I've bought in the last 20+ years so this wasn't unexpected.


She did not look at the screen ( why should she??, Its a strategy







)


She did not like the shape of the back of the 960!!!









She might have a point. She now loves the 32XBR100 which sits discarded by

the couch. ( I'm not leaving it yet ) .


She likes the shape of the 32XBR100 ( she hated it 8 years ago ).


Well we watched PBS all night and will watch PBS for the next 2 weeks

until I do enough to deserve another TV.


Life goes on, and technology does change certain things.... Thank God


----------



## mahicks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PeteH579* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks, I'm in the hills of Sussex County. We only wear shoes on Sunday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I need a major antenae.
> 
> 
> Note:
> 
> 
> The "Wife-y" came home and it was NOT a good time. Now she has objected
> 
> to every TV I've bought in the last 20+ years so this wasn't unexpected.
> 
> 
> She did not look at the screen ( why should she??, Its a strategy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> She did not like the shape of the back of the 960!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> She might have a point. She now loves the 32XBR100 which sits discarded by
> 
> the couch. ( I'm not leaving it yet ) .
> 
> 
> She likes the shape of the 32XBR100 ( she hated it 8 years ago ).
> 
> 
> Well we watched PBS all night and will watch PBS for the next 2 weeks
> 
> until I do enough to deserve another TV.
> 
> 
> Life goes on, and technology does change certain things.... Thank God




ROTFLMAO!!!



I thought I was the only one married to a wife that never likes anything I get.


----------



## PhilipO38

Guys i need your opinion here, i respect you guys here: (btw: Thanks JohnGZ28 for your advise)


My overall question is this, if you were to have bought the XBR960 at Best Buy in November(and say you brainlapsed and were not thinking like me that night, to make sure it was the 'N' model) and they shipped you one that has a build date of May 05' and was the original XBR960(not the N model), and the sales rep. stated this would come from the main warehouse of some 50+ 960's, would you return the tv? (keep in mind i was assured of a brand new tv from this stock, because i had to wait 9 day for it's delivery..of which is only 10 miles away)


Also keep in mind..in this area(Syracuse, NY), that Best Buy is selling the tv for retail price-->$1899 and C. City had it for $1799, so there was not much room from haggling/price matching, and you got the price dropped to $1599, $300 off B.Buy's retail price.(This is what i payed)


What would you do?


1)Return the unit for a full refund(i have until the 24th to do so), and find a area here or order a newer model of this tv?


2)Keep the unit, calibrate it by a professional,..and if all is well, be happy that is works fine and while you could have gotten it for a better deal, you did knock off $300 offf the pricetag.


Thanks for your thoughts here, i'm sorry to bother everyone, as i love this HDTV, it's just i hate to think i got taken here for a fool.


BTW: Is the glare filter the only difference between the original 960 and the 960N models?. Because, even the phone reps at Sony don't seem to know of any difference.

Oh one last thing: For the component inputs 5 and 6, there is like sorta static like look..black screen that looks a bit fuzzy, when nothing is connected to it, but that goes away when my cable and Xbox360 are hooked into these inputs. Is this normal?


TIA



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You're making a mountain out of a molehill. Relax and enjoy the TV. Focus all this energy in to getting it set up and calibrated properly and you'll add years to your life.



^^^

Thank you for the reply, i'll think about what you said.


----------



## PaulModz

Ok, I'm a noob myself teetering between a Panasonic Commercial Plasma and the 960. Have most of you seen posts like this on cnet and other places?

_So what gives? CNET and consumer reports rank this thing #1 in its category. However if you keep reading the reviews below a TON of people are having MAJOR reliability issues with this TV and I am one more. It worked for 50 minutes out of the box, the screen turned red, and it shut off. I then got to spend 2 days arguing with Sony Style.com about how they needed to send me a new TV. Bottom line, if you're going to buy this TV DONT buy it from Sony.com. Buy it from some place local where you and a couple of your strong (it weighs 200lbs) friends can return it quickly. Also get the extended warranty. You'll notice in other posts that Sony immediately wants to "repair it" and they dont want to replace the set even though you spend +/-$2300.00 on it. Sony customer service, support, and quality all appear to be a thing of the past. Its a shame too because the picture was beautiful for the 50 minutes the thing worked._


I was able to find quite a few posts on various sites with people saying they went through 3 960s in a few months and then gave up.


Is it possible that the real difference between the 960 and the 960N is that they simply fixed whatever was causing the reliability problems? Its not the kind of thing most manufacturers would want to advertise, "Now with less bugs!"


Philip, did you get the extended warranty from BestBuy? If so, I'd be hesitant to demand a 960N. Maybe they didn't fix anything in the 960N. If the defect rate is less than 50%, you're probably better off keeping the one you have. Plus, from what I've read, you might be over the hump, since most of the bad units seem to go south sooner rather than later.


----------



## regor13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PhilipO38* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just to inform about the 'N' models, i just called Sony and they revised/switched to those models in August 05'.
> 
> 
> Now i'm real upset at B.Buy for basically lying that they had a inventory of 70 in their main stock and this one would be one of those.
> 
> 
> Eithier they are lying or every one in stock was of the older inventory of units.
> 
> 
> All i know is, while i got the tv for $300 of the list price, i was lyed to(or it seems) and i hate to be taken for a fool here, so i'm headed to B.Buy this week/weekend and i want some answers, or else this may be returned for a newer model or i'll get a refund and wait until C.City gets these back in stock. Or maybe Raylin or another outlet in the CNY area.
> 
> 
> btw: The Sony rep had no idea what the differences are beween the two models.



My 960 has a Sept05 date on the back and Serial #4001414 and is not an N version so they must have made both versions if the Sony rep said they started the N version in Aug05.


----------



## PhilipO38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulModz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I was able to find quite a few posts on various sites with people saying they went through 3 960s in a few months and then gave up.
> 
> 
> Is it possible that the real difference between the 960 and the 960N is that they simply fixed whatever was causing the reliability problems? Its not the kind of thing most manufacturers would want to advertise, "Now with less bugs!"
> 
> 
> Philip, did you get the extended warranty from BestBuy? If so, I'd be hesitant to demand a 960N. Maybe they didn't fix anything in the 960N. If the defect rate is less than 50%, you're probably better off keeping the one you have. Plus, from what I've read, you might be over the hump, since most of the bad units seem to go south sooner rather than later.



First off, great line about the "Now with less bugs!"..lol.


Second, no i did'nt since the sales rep was basically forcing it down my throat at that time, and since Sony has a 2 yr. warranty on this tv.


I just read from the below reply how someone got a 960 that was not the 'N' model and the build was in Sept, and even last night while playing PGR3(Xbox 360) on it, i was thinking "why mess with a great thing, here?"


So i'm leaning towards letting it go and being thankful it's working seemingly well, my only fault is that the component inputs(5 and 6) look not as dark when they have no connection to them..or when that something(ie..cable, Xbox360) is turned off.


So i'll be getting this calibrated next week to make sure it's working well, and if so..then i'll just appreciate it and let it be.


One thing that still concerns me is that Sony still cannot figure the difference between the two units, as three differenent phone reps have no idea the changes from the original to the 'N' models.


I'm glad some folks here said it was the glare filter and that's it, but i'd like to see a Sony (phone) rep. actually confirm it.


Afterall i bought this tv because of it's PQ(both in store and in reviews), and as long as the PQ is identicle to the 'N' models, i'm then at peace. (i don't usually spend $1600 so easily, in fact i never do, and this will be me(our) main HDTV for at least 4-5 years or so.


btw: I did'nt realize the defect number was that high with this unit, wow.


Thanks so much for the reply.


----------



## PhilipO38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *regor13* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My 960 has a Sept05 date on the back and Serial #4001414 and is not an N version so they must have made both versions if the Sony rep said they started the N version in Aug05.



This is very strange, but like you noted it must be they kept on making both versions in Sept..or maybe still even do? Or maybe they kept on making the original with the newer 'N' units in Sept, and eventually kept with just making the newer 'N" models.(


----------



## PhilipO38

This is for everyone:


With a professional calibration, will i find out all faults in this tv? I fully realize this will make the PQ alot better but i'm wondering if they can find out if the unit seems to be working well..in general. (say like geometric issues and such)


I never had a tv professional calibrated yet, so this is new to me.


TIA


----------



## joebxr

My only call to Sony, rep told me difference between 960 and 960N is glare filter. He did not feel there was going to be any price drop, since the price had recently dropped and this is one of their flagship products. He was not aware of any planned introductions of newer versions or discontinuing of CRT's. He said he has "read some of the rumors on forums" too, but has not heard anything to support the rumors.


----------



## williamtassone

Hello


I have the australian version of the XBR910/960


I know how to get into the service menu


Can someone walk me through the steps for adjusting horizontal pincushion?


Cheers


----------



## PNeski

MY 34xbr960 is fantastic but I noticed watching a football game ,that the

abc hd logo is cropped a little on the d,is there a way to fix this?

Thanks

Peter


----------



## ironfoot995

My new 34XBR960 is excellent! I bought it for the bedroom, replacing an old 27" SD set. Of course, the new one would not fit into the entertainment center, so it had to go, too. We ended up buying a new stand for the 50" DLP in the family room (wide enough to place the right and left front floor speakers on either side of the screen) and moved the stand into the bedroom. Unfortunately, the slots for the a/v equipment in the existing stand are too low to see from the bed, so we have ordered an a/v pier to match the stand. Needless to say, the purchase of the new set has snowballed into a whole lot of work and expense. The PQ on the new set is awesome, after tweaking it using some of your suggestions about settings. Thanks a bunch.


John


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PhilipO38* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is for everyone:
> 
> 
> With a professional calibration, will i find out all faults in this tv? I fully realize this will make the PQ alot better but i'm wondering if they can find out if the unit seems to be working well..in general. (say like geometric issues and such)
> 
> 
> I never had a tv professional calibrated yet, so this is new to me.
> 
> 
> TIA



A quality professional will tweak out any "faults" in the picture. So may or may not open up the box to adjust geometry issues that can't be tweaked out.


Glad you're keeping the set. I was about to send you some North Face gear 'cause you were getting pretty close to the summit.


----------



## PhilipO38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A quality professional will tweak out any "faults" in the picture. So may or may not open up the box to adjust geometry issues that can't be tweaked out.
> 
> 
> Glad you're keeping the set. I was about to send you some North Face gear 'cause you were getting pretty close to the summit.



Tweaking out?, how do they do this via just the remote and service menu? Or do they use something else?


And if the unit needs to be opened up so be it, as long as the PQ is perfected he can do whatever is needed.


Thank You, for the reply.


----------



## TCB

I just learned that BB will be clearancing these tvs out soon. The salesguy was respond to my speculation that Sony was getting out of tube tvs completely and that soon the 960 would be on clearance. He confirmned that the tv was going on clearance but wouldn't say when. He just said "soon".


Thanks to a very kind AVS member, I'm going off to purchase my 960 at an incredible price.


----------



## joebxr

I just spent last 30 minutes on phone with Sony Customer Service, including a Supervisor. The question was real simple and I just wanted a straight answer....is Sony discontinuing ther XBR960 series TV's? I got an answer from rep, asked them to double check, then asked for Supervisor, got answer and asked him to double check.... final answer was that the Sony XBR960 is being discontinued, becuase it is replaced by the XBR960N, which is not being discontinued. He said if anyone is going to sell on clearance, it's his belief that it will be the XBR960, and that they may have negotiated a deal sith Sony to get clearance pricing.


----------



## Total

I'm having trouble with ps2 video quality on the 960. I just puchased madcat component cable for the ps2 and I played Grand Torismo 4. When I go into options in the game and switched to progressive or HDTV (which was worst), the video quality was bad. I tried playing a movie, but it didnt give me the right options in screen mode. It gives me standard definition choices instead of high-definition. Is the component cable defective or is it the ps2?


----------



## deckels

Howdy. My new 960 has colors blooming/bleeding out of the corners. If it's a blue screen, a couple of the corners will have a bunch of red moving out and back in a couple times a minute, blue if it's a red screen. The Sony person I talked to had me turn my set off for a bit and unplug it, and that actually seemed to help a bit last night, but it was all back today.


Anyone had this happen? How did you fix it? The Sony guy said if leaving it turned off for a bit didin't fix it, a repair guy would have to come and check the magnets. It's too bad, everything else about the tv is fantastic.


----------



## williamtassone

No no no no nothing to do with landing magnets.


Can be fixed easily by adjusting LANDING in service mode


Go to the thread on the Sony service codes or read my post from yesterday


----------



## deckels

Thank you. I might try that tonight, though I'm pretty scared of the SM. I read the code thread you mentioned, but I still don't know what Landing actually does. Do you know?


----------



## Shadowx117

I am having some problems with ghosting. It happens in digital cable, Xbox360 and dvd's when the screen goes from bright to dark or when a bright object moves across a dark background. Does anyone else have this problem or know of a fix?


----------



## mr2828

Ghosting generally refers to old analog transmissions where you would see a "copy" of the picture persistently shifted off to the side.


It sounds like you may instead be talking about the "trailing" issue that has been discussed here. Do you see "streaks" briefly left behind rapidly moving bright objects on dark/black backgrounds? If so, that is the trailing. No known fix, it may be an inherent quality of the phospors on this TV.


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Total* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm having trouble with ps2 video quality on the 960. I just puchased madcat component cable for the ps2 and I played Grand Torismo 4. When I go into options in the game and switched to progressive or HDTV (which was worst), the video quality was bad. I tried playing a movie, but it didnt give me the right options in screen mode. It gives me standard definition choices instead of high-definition. Is the component cable defective or is it the ps2?



I've got a PS2 hooked up to my set using the PS2 component cables and it works fine. I've used them with Gran Turismo 4 and all was well, in 480p and 1080i. So I'm tempted to believe it may be your cables.


----------



## Gage33

I am new to a lot of this so I have a couple of questions. Sorry if some of this is answered in the thread previously, it is hard to pick out all of the info.


1. I have Comcast digital cable. How will the SD digital cable channels look on this TV?


2. How do Gamecube/PS2 480p games look on this set? I have a lot of Gamecube/PS2 480p compatible games I would like to play. How will these games look on this set in 480p compared to playing them normally on an SD CRT set? In other words, I want to have the best visual experience with these games, will this set provide this for 480p games?


3. Is there burn in problems with this TV? I plan on watching a lot of 4:3 television and playing 4:3 games on this TV, will this make burn in worse?


Thanks


----------



## RJRSW

QUOTE=Gage33 I am new to a lot of this so I have a couple of questions. Sorry if some of this is answered in the thread previously, it is hard to pick out all of the info.


1. I have Comcast digital cable. How will the SD digital cable channels look on this TV?

I have the same setup with the Comcast dual tuner PVR connected with component and the SD digital channels look great and they are heads and shoulders above the analog.


3. Is there burn in problems with this TV? I plan on watching a lot of 4:3 television and playing 4:3 games on this TV, will this make burn in worse?

YES! There is a burn in problem with any CRT based TV so you will need to limit 4:3 viewing or stretch it to fit, also watch out for score boxes etc. that stay in the same position all the time. An LCD based set would be far better for games because there is no worry about burn in.


----------



## TheAngryGolfer

my 34xbr960N is coming tomorrow (ordered from crutchfield)


any suggestions on reccommended settings?


----------



## Total




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *justsc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've got a PS2 hooked up to my set using the PS2 component cables and it works fine. I've used them with Gran Turismo 4 and all was well, in 480p and 1080i. So I'm tempted to believe it may be your cables.



What ps2 component cable are you using?


I notice that I get little or alot of artifacts and fuss on screen with dvd w/hdmi, ps2, or cable. Before I bought the 960, I was looking at the 955 at sears and it had an increadable picture, I mean crystal clear. I am doubting that my 960 will be that clear. What am I doing wrong or is the tv defective? I have the 960 and a cable box, I think atlanta broadband, with 2 or 3 splitters and a long cable (might be mix between RG6 and RG59) leading to the TV. That might explain the degrading in cable but what about the DVD.


Ive notice that it says NTSC on all of the channels when I press display. So if I get a HD channel, will it say HDTV? Should some of the OTA HDTV channels say HDTV like ABC and etc. What do I need to get HDTV channels? Do I need to pay extra for those types of channels or buy HDTV equipment?


----------



## Gage33




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RJRSW* /forum/post/0
> 
> YES! There is a burn in problem with any CRT based TV so you will need to limit 4:3 viewing or stretch it to fit, also watch out for score boxes etc. that stay in the same position all the time. An LCD based set would be far better for games because there is no worry about burn in.



But it is not as big of a deal with a directview compared to a projection, correct? How long would you have to play or watch something for burn in to be a problem?


----------



## Jediphish




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Total* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ive notice that it says NTSC on all of the channels when I press display. So if I get a HD channel, will it say HDTV? Should some of the OTA HDTV channels say HDTV like ABC and etc. What do I need to get HDTV channels? Do I need to pay extra for those types of channels or buy HDTV equipment?



The OSD on this set will indicate 720p or 1080i where it currently idicates NTSC if you are receiving an HDTV signal.


Your TV's internal ATSC tuner will decode terrestrial HD signals if any are broadcast in your area - to receive these you need to connect the set to an antenna and run a chennel search. This set also has an internal QAM tuner that will recieve unencrypted cable HD channels if your cable company transmits them "in the clear." You would only need to connect your cable, set it to Cable (instead of Air), and run a channel search to receive these. You can also receive HD signals over the HDMI or component connections connected to an HD capable satellite or cable reciever (assuming you have their HD package/offerings).


----------



## williamtassone

Deckels


read ur private message


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gage33* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> But it is not as big of a deal with a directview compared to a projection, correct? How long would you have to play or watch something for burn in to be a problem?



If picture and brightness settings are not set extremely high and one does not use the "vivid" mode (stick with pro) there should be no prolem regarding the issue of burn-in. You will be safe with any setting up to two-thirds the available range (even those are too high for good quality picture).


Do this and you won't lose any sleep worrying.


----------



## Gage33




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TCB* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just learned that BB will be clearancing these tvs out soon. The salesguy was respond to my speculation that Sony was getting out of tube tvs completely and that soon the 960 would be on clearance. He confirmned that the tv was going on clearance but wouldn't say when. He just said "soon".
> 
> 
> Thanks to a very kind AVS member, I'm going off to purchase my 960 at an incredible price.



Is this just for the 960 or does this include the 960N as well (the BB clearance)?


And where did you decide to purchase at?


----------



## Gage33




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If picture and brightness settings are not set extremely high and one does not use the "vivid" mode (stick with pro) there should be no prolem regarding the issue of burn-in. You will be safe with any setting up to two-thirds the available range (even those are too high for good quality picture).
> 
> 
> Do this and you won't lose any sleep worrying.



Is this true for 4:3 viewing too? The reason I ask is my brother in law has an old CRT *projection* HD TV that has burn-in lines where the 4:3 picture stops on both sides.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gage33* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is this true for 4:3 viewing too? The reason I ask is my brother in law has an old CRT *projection* HD TV that has burn-in lines where the 4:3 picture stops on both sides.



We use the wide-stretch mode for all 4x3 broadcasts but watched many DVD's with original theatrical aspects and had no problem with top and bottom black bars.


Are those two different sets your brother-in-law has (projection TV is not CRT)? Old CRTs were more suseptable to burn-in than newer sets (I had a very old RCA which displayed the QVC box). Still would not worry - nobody else in this thread has had an issue with burn-in.


----------



## POWERFUL

What does error code 161-6 actually mean when you have CableCARD hooked up to your set? Bad signal strenght, is my best guess bc went it comes up I lose and signal I'm getting on cable. They sent someone over to replace the old cable that was hooked up before and I still have this same problem. I'm hoping someone on this thread can tell me if it's just a bad card or is it still a problem with the signal. TIA


----------



## POWERFUL

sorry for the double post.


----------



## TCB




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gage33* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is this just for the 960 or does this include the 960N as well (the BB clearance)?
> 
> 
> And where did you decide to purchase at?



I'm not sure about the first question.

I haven't finalized my purchase yet. Tomorrow is the day. I'll post back.


----------



## doretta

I would say there's no reason for most people to freak about N's vs. no N's or manufacturing date.


I've had my 960 since July 04 and have not had any problems with the tuner or the antiglare coating. I believe the antiglare dust thing is a manufacturing issue. If it looks good when you get it, it is likely to keep looking good. Of course, you don't want to gouge the coating or dissolve it with chemicals but a hard coating can be messed up by those things too.


----------



## TheAngryGolfer

ok i goty the tv today and its pretty badass (and thats without any HD content yet... my HD cable box is coming next week and who knows when I'm getting my 360)


so far I have it set up on pro, picture 32, brightness 42 color 34 sharpness min, hue R1, monitor...


kind of dark but looks great especially with the lights turned off


whats weird is none of the screen modes fit perfectly, even with a dvd that is 16:9. with DVD's it seems that "zoom" works best (very minimal clipping) and with non letterboxed 4:3 tv stuff "wide zoom" works best. I'm assuming that with a 2.35:1 dvd you will have no clipping with "zoom" but a little bit of letterboxing... havent tried that yet.


I havent tried anything with component inputs yet but from looking at the manual it seems that 16:9 content thru the component inputs will fill the screen properly on "full"... is this correct?


----------



## mr2828

If this is your first 16:9 set, you need to go into your dvd player setup and change it to output to a 16:9 screen.


----------



## TheAngryGolfer

lol I dont even have a dvd player. I use my xbox.


----------



## TCB

I just pulled the trigger. I went to Ultimate Electronics and bought the XBR960N for $1199. I bought the stand and performance warranty also. They price matched and got a little lower than a Video Only receipt of $1216.


That is a good price, don't ya think?


----------



## PeteH579




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *doretta* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would say there's no reason for most people to freak about N's vs. no N's or manufacturing date.
> 
> 
> I've had my 960 since July 04 and have not had any problems with the tuner or the antiglare coating. I believe the antiglare dust thing is a manufacturing issue. If it looks good when you get it, it is likely to keep looking good. Of course, you don't want to gouge the coating or dissolve it with chemicals but a hard coating can be messed up by those things too.




I agree with the above. My new 960N screen actually has a bit too much glare compared to my old 32XBR100. I'll live with it. I wouldn't lose sleep over the

anti glare coating.


----------



## Gaara

Posted this in another thread, thought I should post this here to. We have a KD-34XBR970 in our system, according to our system the retail price is $1199. I have no information about it presently, anyone else know anything about this model?


Jared


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gaara* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Posted this in another thread, thought I should post this here to. We have a KD-34XBR970 in our system, according to our system the retail price is $1199. I have no information about it presently, anyone else know anything about this model?
> 
> 
> Jared




Never heard of it.


That retail price is certainly hard to believe for a 34 inch XBR of any kind, but that would certainly be nice if that ended up happening at some point.


----------



## Gaara

I was about to buy the XBR960 and sell off my HS510, but now I am a little unsure. I can see maybe a 15% decrease in price, but this large of a difference it must be a stripped down model. Not sure how they got this tv this low, if it is just features they sacrifice I would be all for it, but if the picture quality suffers it isn't worth it.


Jared


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gaara* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Posted this in another thread, thought I should post this here to. We have a KD-34XBR970 in our system, according to our system the retail price is $1199. I have no information about it presently, anyone else know anything about this model?
> 
> 
> Jared



What "system" are you referring to?


----------



## Chorgey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gaara* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was about to buy the XBR960 and sell off my HS510, but now I am a little unsure. I can see maybe a 15% decrease in price, but this large of a difference it must be a stripped down model. Not sure how they got this tv this low, if it is just features they sacrifice I would be all for it, but if the picture quality suffers it isn't worth it.
> 
> 
> Jared



I just purchased the XBR960 a couple of weeks ago and the price was just over $1600, but that was due to the set being on sale for $1799 (originally $1899) and on top of that, there was a 10% off store coupon from Boscovs. Let me know if you have any hard proof of a more reduced cost because the store will price match for me.


Go with the XBR960, the picture is excellent and is money well spent. I'm waiting for my 100 hour burn in period so I can get it calibrated.


----------



## TheAngryGolfer

oh and how the hell do u get this tv to work with memory sticks?


when I put one in it doesnt seem to recognize it


----------



## RJRSW

I have used mine with a memory stick pro and it shows every jpg size I have tried and it also played the mpg files from my old sony digital camera. The photos are crystal clear. If the TV is on and I stick the memory stick in it automatically switches to the input and shows the files.


----------



## TheAngryGolfer

yea it doesnt do anything when I put in a memory stick.


and the red led always stays on.


----------



## joebxr

I see today (1/15) that Sears is selling the 34XBR960 (not 960N) for $1499


----------



## snatta




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joebxr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I see today (1/15) that Sears is selling the 34XBR960 (not 960N) for $1499



I believe that is supposed to be the 34xs955. They had the 34xs955 on sale for $1499 right after Xmas online. I noticed last week when I clicked on the link I have book marked it said xbr960, but it says the list is $1699 and only comes with 90 day/ 1 year warranty. The list and warranty info is not correct for the XBR960. I haven't seen a XBR960 on their online site since I started watching prices for this set in November. Anyone now if their local Sears carries the XBR960, and at what price?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *snatta* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I believe that is supposed to be the 34xs955. They had the 34xs955 on sale for $1499 right after Xmas online. I noticed last week when I clicked on the link I have book marked it said xbr960, but it says the list is $1699 and only comes with 90 day/ 1 year warranty. The list and warranty info is not correct for the XBR960. I haven't seen a XBR960 on their online site since I started watching prices for this set in November. Anyone now if their local Sears carries the XBR960, and at what price?



Sears has never carried XBRs., at least as far as tubes go.


XS is as high as they go.


----------



## Gaara

Ok two things, first the system I am refering to is our retail system. Generally if we have new models coming in they are put into the system first, and within a month or two we see a purchase order. After that the product comes in, so I would expect it to be two to three months before we see this model.


As for the price, why is $1499 so unbelivable? We have it for that price everyday of the week, hell we have it for $1199 right now. Here is the link if anyone wants it. Third page bottom right.


Jared


----------



## sphinx99

Darn, wish I lived in your neck of the words










It's MSRP around here.


----------



## snatta

I might as well forget about getting an XBR960 now. No way I am paying $1590-$1899 when some stores are selling this set for $1200. I don't buy a vehicle from a dealership that is trying to sell near sticker price, I go to another dealership that will sell at invoice price less rebates. I don't see the pricing in South Jersey falling below $1600 anytime soon.


----------



## Total

I am new to this HDTV thing so bear with me.


Today I watched some of the football game and they said it will be broadcast in HD, but I wasnt getting it in HD (I think). It didnt say 720i or 1080i when I press display, just NTSC. The screen mode options where still Wide Zoom, Normal, Full, and Zoom, instead of Full, Zoom, Horizontal Expand, and Vertical Expand. I dont have the money to buy an outdoor HDTV antenna, plus its not my house. How about one of those small indoor antenna's? Which one would you recommend. If a channel that is broadcasting a show in HD, do they also broadcasting it in Standard Definition? If so that might explain the problem.


Im not getting a good picture from anything and thinking of returning the tv. But before I do I want to try to a few things first to make sure its not the tv. Another thing that bugs me is the screen modes for the standad definition.


----------



## perfect5storm

If you are within 40 or so miles of your local stations you should be able to get by with an amplified indoor antenna. You can buy one almost anywhere including target wal-mart or radio shack. I use a Terk amplified antenna and get good results with my locals. There is more info in the HDTV forum.


----------



## joebxr

Are you using cable? Is it a HD Digital box? Some (maybe all) cable companies use a different channel for the HD broadcasts. Example: Mine uses 03 for Local NBC StdDef and 166 for Local NBC HD


----------



## alspicer

Concerning the Sears posting of XBR960, I emailed them. They replied that it was a mistake. The tv is the 34XS955. They were going to instruct the webmaster to take the ad off. I didn't see it for a couple of days under tube tvs. Then I saw it again under HDTV listings. I hate to think of how mad people would be in receiving the cheaper model tv.


Personally, I'm thinking about getting the 34XS955. I don't need Firewire nor Picture in Picture. When I upgrade to HD cable box, these features are on the cable box. I've looked at these 2 tvs and also the 36xs955 in stores. I believe all have identical picture quality. Does anybody believe the XBR960 has a better picture quality?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Total* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Today I watched some of the football game and they said it will be broadcast in HD, but I wasnt getting it in HD (I think). It didnt say 720i or 1080i when I press display, just NTSC.



Were you tuned to the off-air "analog" (aka NTSC) or off-air "digital" (aka 720p or 1080i) version of the network channel? The comment that says you saw NTSC says you were tuned to off-air analog (and hence only saw non-HD standard 4:3), not off-air digital (where you would have seen 16:9 HD and the expected indicator of 720p or 1080i). The problem is not with the set... it's with your tuning to the wrong off-air channel.


Assuming you have some acceptable off-air antenna connected (a decent indoor VHF/UHF antenna should do, if you're within 10-30 miles of the tranmitters and don't have any horrible obstructions) you then need to run through the SETUP instructions to program the TV's tuner. As has been pointed out by others, off-air digital channels are up in the UHF frequency range but are shown by the TV as N.1, N.2, etc.). The set's tuner needs to "learn" what digital channels exist in your area, and what NTSC channels they correspond to (which is learned from the PSIP data imbedded in the digital data stream).


For example, here in LA standard definition (VHF "NTSC") 4:3 NBC is channel 4. Digital NBC-DT is channel 36. Letting the tuner learn this allows you to then select either analog channel 4 with crappy SD 4:3 picture or digital channel 4.1, which is actually channel 36 although you don't have to know that once the set has gone through its SETUP process successfully, with fabulous HD 16:9 picture.


Get an indoor antenna, run through the SETUP process, and then tune to a digital version of the network channels, where you will find the HD you're craving.


----------



## mahicks

Has anyone purchased their tv from B & H photo and used the common curbside delivery method?


How does it work?


Does the carrier contact me and tell me they will be delivering in a certain "window" of the day?


Is there anyway to pick which day they will deliver?


What I'm getting at, is do I have to have someone sitting at my house for a week waiting on the tv, or do they work with you to make delivery?


I can wait around the house for a full day, but I'd have to know which day I would be waiting around.


Thanks in advance!


----------



## Dandingo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mahicks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anyone purchased their tv from B & H photo and used the common curbside delivery method?
> 
> 
> How does it work?
> 
> 
> Does the carrier contact me and tell me they will be delivering in a certain "window" of the day?
> 
> 
> Is there anyway to pick which day they will deliver?
> 
> 
> What I'm getting at, is do I have to have someone sitting at my house for a week waiting on the tv, or do they work with you to make delivery?
> 
> 
> I can wait around the house for a full day, but I'd have to know which day I would be waiting around.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance!



This is where I will be getting mine from........though I live in NYC so the White Glove shipping is only going to be $85 and it will be next day. They do work with you on some level but do understand that if you are out of state your options will be limited.


BTW, anyone use the Sony stand with this set? It is like 350$ and want to know if it is worth it.


----------



## Shadowx117

I am getting alot of ghosting/trailing from this set. Does anyone know how to fix this or are u getting it at all? I thought that CRT's were not supposed to have much ghosting but I can clearly see a blur whene there is white against a black background. And when a persons bright face is displayed and then the scene chnges to all black I can still see the outline of the face. Does anyone know how to fix this problem? I just read it was due to phosphors but is there nyway to reduce this? Also do other tv's do this? What about LCD's?


----------



## joebxr





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alspicer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Personally, I'm thinking about getting the 34XS955. I don't need Firewire nor Picture in Picture. When I upgrade to HD cable box, these features are on the cable box. I've looked at these 2 tvs and also the 36xs955 in stores. I believe all have identical picture quality. Does anybody believe the XBR960 has a better picture quality?



After seeing your post, my curiosity wants to know what the advantage would be, also. Since they are the same in every aspect EXCEPT the PIP and WARRANTY, I can't believe the pic quality would be any different. So, does it justify the extra $$ for the better 960 warranty ('cause I have no use for PIP).... tough choice. Not sure which way I would go. only other thing different I saw, (and it doesn't make sense) is that the 955 w/stand weighs more than the 960 w/stand.


I'm trying to chat with Sony right now to see if I can get some information.

========================

Okay, 20minute phone call and here is what they said:

960N has 2 anti-glare coatings applied to the Picture tube and the 960 has just one. Told him I heard just the opposite, that 960N "removed" one layer of coating...he rechecked, and swears that the 960N has 2 coatings. Don't know what to believe right now.


As for the 955, electronics, tube,m everything is SAME as 960, except those items already noted.


----------



## SmithRLS




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheAngryGolfer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> yea it doesnt do anything when I put in a memory stick.
> 
> 
> and the red led always stays on.




My XBR had the identical problem, memory stick read light on all the time and no MS function. I was going to ignore it because I don't use the MS but called for warranty service after advice on this forum. The repair tech had to replace the Q? module and said the problem would eventually have evolved taken out power supplies and the TV would go inop. It is a known problem by sony and they knew what to replace from my description on the phone. Ordered the part without looking at the TV.


Regards, Rick


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joebxr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> After seeing your post, my curiosity wants to know what the advantage would be, also. Since they are the same in every aspect EXCEPT the PIP and WARRANTY, I can't believe the pic quality would be any different. So, does it justify the extra $$ for the better 960 warranty ('cause I have no use for PIP).... tough choice. Not sure which way I would go. only other thing different I saw, (and it doesn't make sense) is that the 955 w/stand weighs more than the 960 w/stand.
> 
> 
> I'm trying to chat with Sony right now to see if I can get some information.
> 
> ========================
> 
> Okay, 20minute phone call and here is what they said:
> 
> 960N has 2 anti-glare coatings applied to the Picture tube and the 960 has just one. Told him I heard just the opposite, that 960N "removed" one layer of coating...he rechecked, and swears that the 960N has 2 coatings. Don't know what to believe right now.
> 
> 
> As for the 955, electronics, tube,m everything is SAME as 960, except those items already noted.



I don't believe there's ever been any claim the the XBR (N or otherwise) offers better PQ than the XS series. If memory serves, I do recall reading something about enhanced options within the DRC and/or advanced picture settings. Like I said, "if memory serves"...


----------



## TheAngryGolfer

ok I got my HD cable box today. I want to set up the tv for the channels, and so it displays whether its HD or not and the channel/show information.


I didnt do the autoprogram during initial set up and I want to do it now.


but in the menu, auto program is not highlighted (cant click it)


wtf


----------



## danchilders

I've owned my 960 for about four months now and have been really impressed with it. However, I recently started noticing a very strange problem with a white substance "caking" in blobs on the front of it. Today I wiped some of them off, and not twenty minutes later there were some back on it again which I noticed after I turned it off. The caked substance doesn't isn't just dust. I have no idea what it is. A few times I have noticed it being so thick it would literally come off in chunks. I have never had this bizzare problem with any of the other televisions or other objects in my house, so I am wondering if there was actually a way the TV itself is causing this to appear.


I know this is a really off the wall issue, but has anyone else experienced anything like this? IS there any way it could be the television generating the substance?


Confused and a little intimidated by my tvs newly found ability,


Dan


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheAngryGolfer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ok I got my HD cable box today. I want to set up the tv for the channels, and so it displays whether its HD or not and the channel/show information.
> 
> 
> I didnt do the autoprogram during initial set up and I want to do it now.
> 
> 
> but in the menu, auto program is not highlighted (cant click it)



Auto-programming is only for off-air tuning, not cable box fed through INPUT5/6/7. That's "line input" and does not require programming the tuner.


You need an off-air antenna attached in order to use the built-in ATSC tuner, and the set obviously is detecting that you haven't got one... hence graying out the option.


----------



## mjordan

Ok they have had two days to correct their mistake...I just ordered one...I love their disclaimer...any mistakes not our fault...


----------



## joebxr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjordan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok they have had two days to correct their mistake...I just ordered one...I love their disclaimer...any mistakes not our fault...



What model did you order? Someone posted the ad is wrong, and they don't even carry the 960.


----------



## mjordan

KD-34XBR960...Called Sears customer service line twice and ask if this was the correct model number and was told twice yes...When I called the Sears store they told me that the Sears item number was for a 955 model...


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjordan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> KD-34XBR960...Called Sears customer service line twice and ask if this was the correct model number and was told twice yes...When I called the Sears store they told me that the Sears item number was for a 955 model...



and what are you expecting to show up on your doorstep?


----------



## mjordan

I know they will ship the 955N...I will keep my fingers crossed and hope for the best... then I will raise cane about their false advertising...Some stores will honor their ad mistakes...guess it will be hard if they don't carry that model.. At least it is not coming to my door...will go to the Sears store to pick it up...then decide what to do...take it or let them keep it.


So how in the heck do you post an ad for a model that you don't even sell and then leave it up for three days even after your were told about the mistake...


----------



## JohnGZ28

Spend the energy you would use "raising cane" to set up and enjoy your TV rather than ruining the day of some CS rep trying to get through their day that had nothing to do with the ad.


----------



## alspicer

The XBR does have adjustable DRC for tweaking standard definition signals. I've seen some XBR owners post that they don't use this feature. I'm more concerned about best PQ with high definition. Crutchfield shows the XBR as having a 10 bit digitial comb filter, and don't show the XS as being 10 bit. I haven't seen any thing else about this any where. Does any body know if there is a difference between the 2?


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

Just decided on this TV, wheres the cheapest most reliable sorce to order from?


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

ignore that, i just remembered i made a thread asking this..


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

I have that bernies ad, and a reciept from a place selling it for about 1200, .. im going to bring both of these in to best buy and or circuit city to see if i can convince someone to let me buy it for that.... if anyone else has any reciepts or adds of it being sold for that low, the more the better..


----------



## triumph66

They won't match it unless you have a Bernie's locally.


The ad for whatever price you want them to match can't be from a different state than the one you live in.


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

boo


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

after reading these posts im concerned about not getting a 960N .. .arghhhhh!


----------



## TheAngryGolfer

weird issue with mine.


the LED for the memory stick stays on, and it will not read memory sticks.


but then yesterday after I installed my HD cable box, the light was off and it would read memory sticks.


and then the light came back on last night and it wont read them again. WTF?


----------



## TheAngryGolfer

and I just noticed that if I unplug the tv and pulg it back in the thing with the memory stick goes away, as it did yesterday. but I'm sure just like yestrday it will come back again.


Its possible that I pressed something on the remote but I dont see what would do that. Is there a button that would make the memory stick LED stay on and disable the memory stick feature?


----------



## TheAngryGolfer

Just turned the tv on again and the problem is there again.


it seems to go away if you unplug the tv, but then comes right back.


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *irhxcbcziuzxs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> after reading these posts im concerned about not getting a 960N .. .arghhhhh!



how do i find out if its a N version


----------



## joebxr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *irhxcbcziuzxs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> how do i find out if its a N version



The model number on the box and TV will be KV34XBR960N


----------



## joebxr

I think pricing may be dropping a little. Just saw this on Circuit City website:

*Sony 34" HDTV (KD-34XBR960)

Original Price: $1899.99

You save: -$320.00

You pay: $1579.99*


----------



## Shadowx117

Does anyone know how to get rid of or lessen the amount of trailing on the tv? Is this a common problem with other types of tv's or just crts, or even just this model. How come no one said anything about this before?


----------



## Leviticus

Just wondering what exactly you go thru for home service under warranty. Ive got an extended warranty thru SonyStyle, but the paperwork is pretty vague. It basically just has an order number and a certificate number. The place for the TV serial number is blank.


When the repair guy comes what will he ask for to prove its still under warranty. Just warranty paper, the orignal receipt...?? Will a photocopy of the original receipt work? Do they compare the name of the purchaser on the receipt to my name. The TV was paid for by someone else so my name is not on the receipt. I dont want to get a repair tech out and then be told that i owe for the call because its not covered or something due to paperwork conflicts or the like. Thanks for any help.


----------



## liquidneba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shadowx117* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone know how to get rid of or lessen the amount of trailing on the tv? Is this a common problem with other types of tv's or just crts, or even just this model. How come no one said anything about this before?



Hey Shadow,


I'm on my 3rd SONY XBR960. They all had the same trailing, you probably read some of my posts. I still have it, currently taking a break from busting my Sony Customer Service guys' balls about it. He's offering me a buyback of about $2000.00 but I have to buy a Sony TV from sonystyle.com. Even though I can buy it for cheaper else where. So we are going back and forth on this.


Anyway this is a common problem, I saw it recently on my bro's Panny HDTV, as well. I think that some people's eyes here are more sensitive to this phosphor problem than others. Whenever I point it out to anyone, they start seeing it too. Right I have to live with it, I just try to ignore it when watching.


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joebxr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The model number on the box and TV will be KV34XBR960N



how bad is the problem so that they needed to change it to N


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *liquidneba* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Shadow,
> 
> 
> I'm on my 3rd SONY XBR960. They all had the same trailing, you probably read some of my posts. I still have it, currently taking a break from busting my Sony Customer Service guys' balls about it. He's offering me a buyback of about $2000.00 but I have to buy a Sony TV from sonystyle.com. Even though I can buy it for cheaper else where. So we are going back and forth on this.
> 
> 
> Anyway this is a common problem, I saw it recently on my bro's Panny HDTV, as well. I think that some people's eyes here are more sensitive to this phosphor problem than others. Whenever I point it out to anyone, they start seeing it too. Right I have to live with it, I just try to ignore it when watching.



common? i havent heard about any problems with the XS or XBR besides people saying its the best picture they have seen, but thats not really a problem


----------



## liquidneba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *irhxcbcziuzxs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> common? i havent heard about any problems with the XS or XBR besides people saying its the best picture they have seen, but thats not really a problem



Thanks for your interesting input... care reading a few pages of this thread before replying with more of your insight?


Just the facts...


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

yea ive read 10 pages back, should i read back more...


----------



## triumph66




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joebxr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think pricing may be dropping a little. Just saw this on Circuit City website:
> 
> *Sony 34" HDTV (KD-34XBR960)
> 
> Original Price: $1899.99
> 
> You save: -$320.00
> 
> You pay: $1579.99*



Yeah and it also says NOT AVAILABLE ONLINE - ONLY AVAILABLE IN STORES.


Do a search for your localy CC's and I guarantee you'll find that none of them have any left in stock. At least not in any major metropolitan areas. If you can find one from CC at that price I'd snag it up without even thinking about it.


----------



## triumph66




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *irhxcbcziuzxs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> yea ive read 10 pages back, should i read back more...



If you don't want to be ignorant on the subect.....well yeah.


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *triumph66* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yeah and it also says NOT AVAILABLE ONLINE - ONLY AVAILABLE IN STORES.
> 
> 
> Do a search for your localy CC's and I guarantee you'll find that none of them have any left in stock. At least not in any major metropolitan areas. If you can find one from CC at that price I'd snag it up without even thinking about it.



i was there the other day and they said they would order it, and since its a sale and Best Buy price matches, just tell them about CC's sale price.. win!


----------



## TCB

I went into Ultimate Electronics last night to pick up my Sony Stand for the 960 and to arrange for delivery of the XBR960N. They didn't have any of the 34" XBRs on display. I talked to the manager and asked him about the XBR970 possibility that someone mentioned on this site. He said he hadn't heard about it nor was it in the computer when he checked. He did predict that within one year he would not have tube televisions in his store (I think he was referring only to the big ones). I do believe that the time to snatch up an XBR960 is now. Personally, I think they are going to be very hard to find in a few months. Of course, I am merely speculating.


I'm looking forward to taking delivery of my set tomorrow and will report back.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *irhxcbcziuzxs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> common? i havent heard about any problems with the XS or XBR besides people saying its the best picture they have seen, but thats not really a problem



It all depends on your definition of common.


If you're one of the few people that have this problem then yes it is very common. If you're one of the many that don't have this problem then no it's not common.


Fortunately for me I'm one of the ones that don't have this problem and I don't have an "N" model.


----------



## PaulModz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *triumph66* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yeah and it also says NOT AVAILABLE ONLINE - ONLY AVAILABLE IN STORES.
> 
> 
> Do a search for your localy CC's and I guarantee you'll find that none of them have any left in stock. At least not in any major metropolitan areas. If you can find one from CC at that price I'd snag it up without even thinking about it.




Hey guys, I just called my local Circuit City, and found out there was an XBR960 display model that I could buy for $1449! Since this model seems to have a hit or miss quality problem (meaning good sets stay good, bad sets go bad quickly), buying a display model might be a good way to get a properly functioning set, since bad ones would have been replaced.


Of course, the display model might have problems that the 16 year-old kid in charge of the TV section didn't notice


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

i would just have them order one, or have BB price match it


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

any official word on wether dust was actually a problem with non N models between glare scree


----------



## PaulModz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *irhxcbcziuzxs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i would just have them order one, or have BB price match it



The guy at CC told me this sale is to clear out a discontinued model, so they can't order anymore. I'm guessing that means they are non-N sets, but he was adamant they weren't getting a newer XBR960, so it might be an N. Forgot about BB, they said they would match the $1579 price, but not $1449.


It's hard to tell how many of the 960s are actually bad, since each bad one generates a lot of noise compared to the good ones that no one ever talks about, but I've read quite a few posts all over the net from people who went through 3 bad ones in a row.


I'm gonna hit BB and CC after work and get a first hand look at them.


I'm starting to think that combining the best HDTV picture with questionable quality-control and a clueless army of sales zombies is someone at Sony's idea of a practical joke.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulModz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey guys, I just called my local Circuit City, and found out there was an XBR960 display model that I could buy for $1449! Since this model seems to have a hit or miss quality problem (meaning good sets stay good, bad sets go bad quickly), buying a display model might be a good way to get a properly functioning set, since bad ones would have been replaced.
> 
> 
> Of course, the display model might have problems that the 16 year-old kid in charge of the TV section didn't notice



Paul,


As other have advised, purchasing a floor model is not recommended. One does not know how long the set was in use (including by the after store hour staff) which could mean purchasing a used set more than a year old. In addition, stores tend to keep contrast, brightness and color levels high which could result in a burn-in that might not at first be noticed. Finally, if something goes wrong right after delivery the store most likely will not accept a return.


If you are interested, the 960 is still sold at Crutchfield for $1,899 with no tax and free delivery. If one is investing a large sum of money, for a few hundred dollars more,a brand new set is much preferred over a store's demo.


- Joe


----------



## joebxr




PaulModz said:


> but I've read quite a few posts all over the net from people who went through 3 bad ones in a row.
> 
> QUOTE]
> 
> 
> Can you provide some links to these posts. I would really like to read them, since this is so contrary to all I have read on this forum and many professional reviews. I'm just days away from this purchase and like to be completely informed before I do so. That way, if it's a bad choice, then it's my fault for not looking into everything I can.
> 
> Thanks


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

the circuit city here said they could order em, wierd.. im going to try calling them again...

just called and they can order it, so what im going to do is bring my bernies add thats selling it for 1199.00 and bio's reciept, see if best buy will price match, if they wont im going to bring up circuit cities price, see if they will price match, which they will on that at least... then im going to go back to circuit city to have them give me a reason why i should pick them over best buy...


wonder how much tax on the mother will be


----------



## Gage33




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulModz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since this model seems to have a hit or miss quality problem (meaning good sets stay good, bad sets go bad quickly)...



Since when has the XBR960 been known to have a "hit or miss" quality problem? This is news to me.


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

i hear mostly good things


----------



## BTV Mark

I was very impressed with the HD PVR I saw at my neighbor's house. He has cable, and pays $5/mo extra for the device. Wow, it looked great! (Motorola unit/ComCast cable connection.)


Well, I'm very happy with my OTA antenna, and now I'm looking for an HD PVR for my system. I found an incredible Internet price on an RCA HD PVR. Too good to be true? Or, was the price dropped because it needs IEE-1394/Firewire? (Which the '960XBR can use!) So I'm planning to order it. Anyone have expience with this unit and this vendor on a '960? http://www.simplycheap.com/rcadvr2160.html 


Thanks!

Mark


----------



## PaulModz




joebxr said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulModz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> but I've read quite a few posts all over the net from people who went through 3 bad ones in a row.
> 
> QUOTE]
> 
> 
> Can you provide some links to these posts. I would really like to read them, since this is so contrary to all I have read on this forum and many professional reviews. I'm just days away from this purchase and like to be completely informed before I do so. That way, if it's a bad choice, then it's my fault for not looking into everything I can.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I don't own one, and I don't know anybody who does, its kinda hard to seperate the wheat from the chaff. Someone posted in the last few pages of this thread that they've been through 3 960s. I guess my main cause for worry is the zdnet/cnet forums:
> 
> http://reviews-zdnet.com.com/Sony_KD...0787600-4.html
> 
> 
> I'm probably over-thinking this, and its time to sh** or get off the pot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spend less than a few hours ordering a new PC every 2 or 3 years, which are more expensive than this TV, but I've been stupid loop for a few weeks now.
> 
> 
> Anybody familiar with mytaxfree.com? They are selling the 960N for $1300 and shipping is $175 to my area.
> 
> http://www.mytaxfree.com/viewproduct...003&REF=nextag
> 
> 
> I'm off to BB and CC to have my first face-to-face with a 960.
Click to expand...


----------



## PeteH579




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gage33* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since when has the XBR960 been known to have a "hit or miss" quality problem? This is news to me.



I ordered a 960 from ABT in Chicago. I live in NJ.

4 days later the trucker called to arrange delivery.

The box looked like new and the TV was great.


I removed a small green spot in the upper left corner by messing around with

the "Landing" configuration in the service setup.


I would make the same purchase again.


I remember buying a 32XBR100 8 years ago and returning it because I saw some

convergence problems in the lower left corner. The second set was worse.

I drove back and requested my original set from the retailer who thought I was nuts. ( I was ).

I would still use that set today had it not started to flake out.


I love the 34XBR960 , haven't had to switch it. I can tweak it.


----------



## joebxr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulModz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody familiar with mytaxfree.com? They are selling the 960N for $1300 and shipping is $175 to my area.
> 
> http://www.mytaxfree.com/viewproduct...003&REF=nextag
> 
> 
> I'm off to BB and CC to have my first face-to-face with a 960.



Only one review showing, but it's recent and not very good:
http://www.resellerratings.com/seller11324.html 


Shipping is too low for white glove, probably curbside...TV weighs in at 200#


----------



## joebxr




PaulModz said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joebxr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I don't own one, and I don't know anybody who does, its kinda hard to seperate the wheat from the chaff. Someone posted in the last few pages of this thread that they've been through 3 960s. I guess my main cause for worry is the zdnet/cnet forums:
> 
> http://reviews-zdnet.com.com/Sony_KD...0787600-4.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 121 Personal reviews averaging 8.1 out of 10...I'd say that's pretty good. If you look at the reviews, most people are rating this TV as 8, 9 and 10. Very few are rating it 5 or 6. But the ones that are unhappy are giving it 1 and 2 ratings, and there is definately not a TON of them, and most of them are from Spring 2005 back. Online reviews like this are good "reference", but are easily skewed by the numbers....use your instinct. I'm still going to buy it, and I think the risk of a bad set is very low...more than likely lower than most others on the market today.
Click to expand...


----------



## RobMeyer1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BTV Mark* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was very impressed with the HD PVR I saw at my neighbor's house. He has cable, and pays $5/mo extra for the device. Wow, it looked great! (Motorola unit/ComCast cable connection.)
> 
> 
> Well, I'm very happy with my OTA antenna, and now I'm looking for an HD PVR for my system. I found an incredible Internet price on an RCA HD PVR. Too good to be true? Or, was the price dropped because it needs IEE-1394/Firewire? (Which the '960XBR can use!) So I'm planning to order it. Anyone have expience with this unit and this vendor on a '960?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Mark



Hi Mark,


I wouldn't touch this thing. I looked at the manual on the RCA site. Its only connection is Firewire. No antenna or cable input, so it can only record from another firewire source. If you're lucky, it might be able to record what you are watching on the TV making it the least functional PVR there is.


If you want a functional OTA HD PVR, try a Sony DHG-HDD250 or Sony DHG-HDD500. I have the Sony DHG-HDD500 and it works well for me. It has an ATSC tuner, and can receive 7 day TV Guide data OTA for free. It can operate independently from the TV so you can record something while using your TV to watch something else. The 500 holds over 60 hours of HD programming. I believe these models are discontinued, but still available from some retailers.


If you have cable, it can also work with that, but you should read the "Sony DHG-HDD250/500" thread, because some people have problems when using it with cable. Sorry I can't post the url--I haven't made 5 posts yet.


----------



## BIG ED

Do BB stores carry the 960N?

The web site only has the 960.

Thanks.


----------



## PaulModz

I just got back from BestBuy, they have the 960 on the floor, not the 960N, but they may have Ns in the back. They list it for $1899, but will match the current Circuit City sale of $1579.


After comparing the XBR960 to the 42" Panasonic Plasma, I've had a change of heart. The XBR had the best picture I've ever seen, but too many other factors point me toward the panny plasma. The 42" ED plasma list is only $100 more than the XBR, and even though the picture isn't as nice, sometimes quantity trumps quality.


I'm going to buy my first flat-screen TV instead of my last CRT TV. Thanks for all the XBR info.


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

have fun


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobMeyer1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Mark,
> 
> 
> I wouldn't touch this thing. I looked at the manual on the RCA site. Its only connection is Firewire. No antenna or cable input, so it can only record from another firewire source. If you're lucky, it might be able to record what you are watching on the TV making it the least functional PVR there is.
> 
> 
> If you want a functional OTA HD PVR, try a Sony DHG-HDD250 or Sony DHG-HDD500. I have the Sony DHG-HDD500 and it works well for me. It has an ATSC tuner, and can receive 7 day TV Guide data OTA for free. It can operate independently from the TV so you can record something while using your TV to watch something else. The 500 holds over 60 hours of HD programming. I believe these models are discontinued, but still available from some retailers.
> 
> 
> If you have cable, it can also work with that, but you should read the "Sony DHG-HDD250/500" thread, because some people have problems when using it with cable. Sorry I can't post the url--I haven't made 5 posts yet.




Thanks, Rob. There's always a reason for things being "too cheap." Your reply was one of the most concise and valuable I have seen. I'll take a close look at the Sonys. (Don't have cable yet, but thinking I will be "forced" to go that way eventually.


Thanks!


Mark


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulModz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just got back from BestBuy, they have the 960 on the floor, not the 960N, but they may have Ns in the back. They list it for $1899, but will match the current Circuit City sale of $1579.
> 
> 
> After comparing the XBR960 to the 42" Panasonic Plasma, I've had a change of heart. The XBR had the best picture I've ever seen, but too many other factors point me toward the panny plasma. The 42" ED plasma list is only $100 more than the XBR, and even though the picture isn't as nice, sometimes quantity trumps quality.
> 
> 
> I'm going to buy my first flat-screen TV instead of my last CRT TV. Thanks for all the XBR info.



PAUL


DO NOT PURCHASE THIS TYPE OF TV IF YOU WANT HIGH DEFINITION!


ED is not HD!


From the Crutchfield website:


EDTV (Enhanced-Definition Television)

A designation applied to televisions that can not only display signals in 480-line progressive (480p) mode, but which can also accept 480p signals from video sources such as progressive-scan DVD players. 480p picture quality is superior to standard analog TV (480i), but not as sharp as true HDTV (1080i or 720p).


If you want a flat screen HD set, they will cost you more than an EDTV.


----------



## triumph66




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulModz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The guy at CC told me this sale is to clear out a discontinued model, so they can't order anymore. I'm guessing that means they are non-N sets, but he was adamant they weren't getting a newer XBR960, so it might be an N. Forgot about BB, they said they would match the $1579 price, but not $1449.
> 
> 
> It's hard to tell how many of the 960s are actually bad, since each bad one generates a lot of noise compared to the good ones that no one ever talks about, but I've read quite a few posts all over the net from people who went through 3 bad ones in a row.
> 
> 
> I'm gonna hit BB and CC after work and get a first hand look at them.
> 
> 
> I'm starting to think that combining the best HDTV picture with questionable quality-control and a clueless army of sales zombies is someone at Sony's idea of a practical joke.



If you have a local BB that has a new XBR960 in stock and are willing to match the CC price of $1579, that is simply a no brainer. I would get over there and do that deal immediately. You will not get much better than that unless you live in a mystery town with a Bernie's(whatever the heck that is).


If you look at BB's website you can't even add it to the shopping cart anymore which means they are phasing it out just like CC for the "N" model. The ONLY reason the price at CC is where it is right now is because of this. Once the "N" model shows back up in inventory at these stores I GUARANTEE the price will be back up to a full MSRP of $1,899 so get that non-N model while you still can assuming it's a NIB model.


Just for reference sakes I believe if you purchase from BB and/or CC you will get a very recent production model. I purchased my 960 from CC back in October and it was a September 2005 production set.


----------



## BIG ED




> Quote:
> get that non-N model while you still can assuming it's a NIB model.



How do I identify a "NIB" model.

Does anyone disagree and thinks its better to have an "N"?

Thanks.


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BIG ED* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How do I identify a "NIB" model.
> 
> Does anyone disagree and thinks its better to have an "N"?
> 
> Thanks.



i think its better to have an N, newer manufacturing dates, the issue with glare protection and dust getting between it and the screen and not being able to be removed, sony changed it for a reason... ill stay safe with N


----------



## joebxr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BIG ED* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How do I identify a "NIB" model.
> 
> Does anyone disagree and thinks its better to have an "N"?
> 
> Thanks.



NIB = NEW IN BOX

"N" model...plenty of owners of 960 on this forum that are not "N" model that will tell you it's great and no problem. If no one ever told us there was a technical difference between 960 and 960N, there is a good chance we wouldn't ever know or notice. I talked with a local Sony authorized repair shop and they agreed, and also said they have had absolutely no complaints on the 960 (anti-glare related).


Don't know if that helps you in any way, but thought I would try.


----------



## patsan

I've had the 960 for a year and a half now, and haven't had any problems whatsoever. If it weren't for this forum, I wouldn't even know there was an N model, or problems with the sets.

I guess it's like everything else in this world, some things will be lemons. We've been very happy with our 960 (non N).


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

im almost tempted not to take the chance


----------



## nojokejones

i just purchased a 34xbr960. the only issue i have is with the remote. it doesn't seem like i can control my sony receiver with it. i know you can program it to control other AV equipment, but only dvd players, cd players and cable/sat boxes. Not a receiver, not even a sony receiver?


i thought about getting a high-end universal remote, but wonder if i am going to lose functionality from the tv. especially features like "twin mode" and "favorites."


does anyone have any experience with this?


----------



## joebxr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *irhxcbcziuzxs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> im almost tempted not to take the chance


HUH ?


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

read the other post i commented on, dont worry about that


----------



## Gaara

triumph66,


> Quote:
> You will not get much better than that unless you live in a mystery town with a Bernie's(whatever the heck that is).



That cut me deep...jk. Bernie's stores are located in only three states, Connecticut Rhode Island and Massachusetts.


nojokejones,


I use a MX-700 from Universal Remote and love it. You can do more with this remote then with the sony one, like being able to independantly pick each input instead of having to cycle through. You will not lose any functionality, since even if there isn't a button for what you want to do, you can program the remote to do it. A good universal remote makes everything much easier to do.


Jared


----------



## joebxr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *irhxcbcziuzxs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> read the other post i commented on, dont worry about that



OOPS, sorry...didn't realize you were just having a discussion with yourself !


----------



## Gecko85




joebxr said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulModz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> but I've read quite a few posts all over the net from people who went through 3 bad ones in a row.
> 
> QUOTE]
> 
> 
> Can you provide some links to these posts. I would really like to read them, since this is so contrary to all I have read on this forum and many professional reviews. I'm just days away from this purchase and like to be completely informed before I do so. That way, if it's a bad choice, then it's my fault for not looking into everything I can.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've read some of those posts too, but don't want to dig around and find them. What I noticed in the large majority was people not understanding CRT sets and returning a perfectly good set because of minor geometry issues and other easily fixable things. I've not seen anyone who's got 3 sets in a row that were actually bad.
Click to expand...


----------



## joebxr




Gecko85 said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joebxr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've read some of those posts too, but don't want to dig around and find them. What I noticed in the large majority was people not understanding CRT sets and returning a perfectly good set because of minor geometry issues and other easily fixable things. I've not seen anyone who's got 3 sets in a row that were actually bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think you are right on the nose with this... remember, we are used to buying "TV's" previously that out of the box you might change contrast or color settings to meet your preference. So for the most part, the expectation of many is that it should be just right out of the box. Let's face it, digital and HD have changed things and many of us, myself included, are not totally familiar with the expectations.
Click to expand...


----------



## Gecko85




PaulModz said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joebxr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I guess my main cause for worry is the zdnet/cnet forums.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly, I wouldn't put ANY weight behind the zdnet/cnet forums. I stopped even reading those forums a while ago. They're filled with bad information and clueless posters/trolls/etc. Seriously. Have a peek through several other forums (such as the Windows forum) and you'll see what I mean. I find some of the writers for zdnet/cnet to be knowledgeable (sometimes...I've seen some who are utterly clueless), but their forums attract the worst of the worst. At least that's been my experience.
Click to expand...


----------



## DanAllen

I spoke to sony only dealer here about a circuit city price match. He didn't have one, but mentioned if I was determined to get a tube I may want to wait for the 970. I asked for details and he told me the model was 34xbr970, retail price of $1199 with an expected release date of 3/6/2006. I was on the phone, but he seemed to be reading this information. Anyone know anything about this?


----------



## Gage33




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DanAllen* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I spoke to sony only dealer here about a circuit city price match. He didn't have one, but mentioned if I was determined to get a tube I may want to wait for the 970. I asked for details and he told me the model was 34xbr970, retail price of $1199 with an expected release date of 3/6/2006. I was on the phone, but he seemed to be reading this information. Anyone know anything about this?



Didn't someone earlier in this thread mentioned that an xbr970 was in their store's computer? I hope you are not lieing and this is true, I will be all over it.


----------



## DanAllen

The guy offered to order one for me. I was on my way to CC for the 960 purchase, now I'm not sure what to do. Advice?


----------



## Gecko85




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DanAllen* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I spoke to sony only dealer here about a circuit city price match. He didn't have one, but mentioned if I was determined to get a tube I may want to wait for the 970. I asked for details and he told me the model was 34xbr970, retail price of $1199 with an expected release date of 3/6/2006. I was on the phone, but he seemed to be reading this information. Anyone know anything about this?



You would think there would have been an announcement or demo at CES if that were true...


----------



## Gage33

I spoke to a sony rep and he knew nothing about an xbr970 and nothing was i n the computer. He did not seem like he knew a lot about their TVs so take it for what its worth.


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

yea, sorry.. was talking to myself


----------



## TCB

I had my xbr960N delivered yesterday. I only spent about 20 minutes with it, however, because of my kid's band concert, etc. Once I did get it hooked up to comcast cable and started looking at the HDTV channels, I was floored. The picture is incredible. I did not spot any obvious convergence issues. I'll know more tonight when I get home from work.


----------



## spider4re

Just spoke with my Sony rep (has been an authorized dealer for 22 years) and he told me that the new 970 will be out in April. There will be NO significant changes (possibly a 2nd HDMI input) to the model other than a price drop to $11XX.00. He said that 960N's are becoming very difficult to find (he wasn't able to get me one for my father in law so I am now waiting for the 970 for him). Model and price are in response to slow crt sales and to compete with LCD (function/performance over form)


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

haha , just after i ordered my TV


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

heres the thing though, i actually called sony, and the N model is 2005's XBR model, a 970, sounds odd to me.. also considering i cant find anything what so ever about a 970 model anywhere on the internet im going to write it off as meh


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

it would be very odd to have it realeased that soon with no word officially on it before it comes out


----------



## spider4re




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *irhxcbcziuzxs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> it would be very odd to have it realeased that soon with no word officially on it before it comes out




I don't think it would be unreasonable for a manufacturer not to announce that they are releasing a new model that is essentially unchanged from the previous year but $700 less before the current inventory was cleared from the pipeline


----------



## KR-9405

Hey guys, I got a quick question. I was curious to know if anybody who has the xbr 960 did you have to take the tv out of the box outside for the set to fit through the door? Or will the box fit through the door? The only reason I'm asking this is because mine is suppose to be here Monday and there's a chance of rain. I sure wouldn't want the delivery guys taking this thing out of the box in the rain. That's why I'm hoping it will fit through the door box and all. Anyone care to shed any light on this? Thanks.


----------



## snatta




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spider4re* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just spoke with my Sony rep (has been an authorized dealer for 22 years) and he told me that the new 970 will be out in April. There will be NO significant changes (possibly a 2nd HDMI input) to the model other than a price drop to $11XX.00. He said that 960N's are becoming very difficult to find (he wasn't able to get me one for my father in law so I am now waiting for the 970 for him). Model and price are in response to slow crt sales and to compete with LCD (function/performance over form)



This would make sense to me. Lower the price to try and compete with the flat screens, and add a HDMI input. I hope this rumor is true, and that I will be rewarded for holding out for a cheaper price with the 970 model.


----------



## PeteH579




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KR-9405* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey guys, I got a quick question. I was curious to know if anybody who has the xbr 960 did you have to take the tv out of the box outside for the set to fit through the door? Or will the box fit through the door? The only reason I'm asking this is because mine is suppose to be here Monday and there's a chance of rain. I sure wouldn't want the delivery guys taking this thing out of the box in the rain. That's why I'm hoping it will fit through the door box and all. Anyone care to shed any light on this? Thanks.



I have a typical 36" front door. The box fit through fine. I think the box is about 30"

in its narrowest dimension.


Good luck. The top lifts off after you remove the white hand hold looking things.


----------



## KR-9405

If the box is only 30" deep, then I know it will fit through my door. I know this set is only about 23" deep but my concern was I wasn't sure just how big the box was with all the styrofoam they put on the corners. My door is also 36". But, I have a screen door that sticks out some and with it in the way there is only about 34" of clearance to play with. It should fit. Thanks for the reply.


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

gurrr


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KR-9405* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey guys, I got a quick question. I was curious to know if anybody who has the xbr 960 did you have to take the tv out of the box outside for the set to fit through the door? Or will the box fit through the door? The only reason I'm asking this is because mine is suppose to be here Monday and there's a chance of rain. I sure wouldn't want the delivery guys taking this thing out of the box in the rain. That's why I'm hoping it will fit through the door box and all. Anyone care to shed any light on this? Thanks.



Our set had to be removed from the box. Our doorway measures 32" but you must also allow another 2 or 3 inches for the thickness of the door when it is open to get it through the doorway. I was told by the delivery people they often had to do this for the 960.


----------



## PeteH579




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KR-9405* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If the box is only 30" deep, then I know it will fit through my door. I know this set is only about 23" deep but my concern was I wasn't sure just how big the box was with all the styrofoam they put on the corners. My door is also 36". But, I have a screen door that sticks out some and with it in the way there is only about 34" of clearance to play with. It should fit. Thanks for the reply.



It will fit with everything opened fully.


Don't worry, Its cardboard and it does slip by.


----------



## PhilipO38

Hi guys i need advise once again.


I have a couple more days to return my Sony XBR960(not the "n" model) because of the extended holiday return policy, and i was going to live with..or accepting that i got a May 05' model when promised a new one from inventory in December.


But, last week the tv would not turn on for about 30 minutes and each time i turned it on by remote or by the power button on the buttom of set i got nothing on screen..as if the tv was not even turning on.


(To get it working i had to take out the power cord out of the surge protector and reinsert in. And i also took out the surge protector and re inserted it as well.)


But otherwise since then it's been fine, so now i'm wondering if it was a fluke or not.(btw: it's on a good quality surge protextor with only the cable box on the same line).


Now i have heard that the units built in May 05' had problems, so what should i do here?


Exchance it to be safe or is this a common occurance amoung all XBR960 for everyone?


TIA for any replies back, i need to make my decision probably within 24 hours.


----------



## Leviticus

Unplug it from the surge protector. As per SONY manual, this TV is designed to be plugged DIRECTLY into the wall. It has an automatic degaussing screen when you turn it on that draws a lot of power initially, more than most surge protectors allow. This could be causing your problem. Other than that i dont know.


----------



## bobhoppel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PhilipO38* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi guys i need advise once again.
> 
> 
> I have a couple more days to return my Sony XBR960(not the "n" model) because of the extended holiday return policy, and i was going to live with..or accepting that i got a May 05' model when promised a new one from inventory in December.
> 
> 
> But, last week the tv would not turn on for about 30 minutes and each time i turned it on by remote or by the power button on the buttom of set i got nothing on screen..as if the tv was not even turning on.
> 
> 
> (To get it working i had to take out the power cord out of the surge protector and reinsert in. And i also took out the surge protector and re inserted it as well.)
> 
> 
> But otherwise since then it's been fine, so now i'm wondering if it was a fluke or not.(btw: it's on a good quality surge protextor with only the cable box on the same line).
> 
> 
> Now i have heard that the units built in May 05' had problems, so what should i do here?
> 
> 
> Exchance it to be safe or is this a common occurance amoung all XBR960 for everyone?
> 
> 
> TIA for any replies back, i need to make my decision probably within 24 hours.





Watch out for that "quality surge protector". It could limit the current the set needs at turn on for proper deguassing. I would plug it directly into the wall since Sony already has its own surge protection or get at least a 1500 VA UPC UNIT.


----------



## TCB

Just a quick post to gush about the picture on the 960 I just purchased. I am still amazed. I tried the pro settings a lot of people use, but found it all too dark. I know, I know they are reference, yadda yadda. But it still looks too dark. I'm using standard mode and it looks beautiful. I find myself watching Sunrise Earth in HD and drifting away.


Furthermore, I find the 34 inch size very pleasing. I'm sitting about 7 feet away and find it immersive enough. I'm thinking our dedicated home theatre will be getting less use with this little beauty upstairs.


----------



## Simm

I ordered one of these sets from Best Buy last week using a price match from Circuit City. They had one in stock but the box was torn up, actually the packaging looked like a return, so I had them order one. It is supposed to be here on the 25th. I have spent the last 6-7 weeks looking at TV's and finally decided on the 960 after looking at LCD's, SXRD's, DLP's, Plasmas, etc. I thought for the money this would be the best set for us at this time.


We just moved into a new house 12/1 and I had a semi-dedicated HT room in the basement of my old house with a 65" Mits 65413 RPTV so I am concerned with the huge difference in picture size I will have now. There is no practical way to set up a large screen HT in this house and we will only be here 12-24 months. My plan is to use this set here and either move it to a bedroom of our next house or use it for TV viewing in conjunction with a projector when I get a HT room again.


I'm looking forward to getting this set up this week and enjoying HD again.


----------



## TWinbrook46636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spider4re* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just spoke with my Sony rep (has been an authorized dealer for 22 years) and he told me that the new 970 will be out in April. There will be NO significant changes (possibly a 2nd HDMI input) to the model other than a price drop to $11XX.00. He said that 960N's are becoming very difficult to find (he wasn't able to get me one for my father in law so I am now waiting for the 970 for him). Model and price are in response to slow crt sales and to compete with LCD (function/performance over form)



I would think a new model number would warrant some changes. Probably a new cabinet design and the removal of the Firewire ports. The tube would come from China instead of the US source. The current model is likely going to be the better deal.


----------



## PhilipO38

Do you guys think i should exchange this amazing XBR960 for say a top LCD..say Sony'a Bravia ?


It's just so strange to have bought a new tv which ran me $1599 at B.Buy(and i had to haggle the price down from $1899) a month back..and has amazing PQ but now that Sony will be stopping it's CRT lineup forever, i'm beginning to think that maybe a no purchase would have been my best option(i also have a 27" Samsung HDTV, from 3 yrs back).


Don't get me wrong i love it's PQ, but there are very few HD broadcasts from Time Warner Cable in my area.(and no FOX-HD) and after the Super Bowl..while i have the YES network(thankfully) to look forward to, there is little else.


And then i'm reading up on the upcoming SED tv's that will combine the PQ of a CRT with the size/weight of the LCD/Plasma's, and i'm wondering if i should just return this HDTV..maybe for a new pc rig or digital camera or just wait until there are many more HD channels on cable.


And oddly the main reason i bought this HDTV was for 360/PS3 gaming, but i'm wondering if the upconverting of 720p to 1080i brings down the PQ to levels of say a LCD? Because every LCD(or most) are native 720p.


I could easily return this(i believe..easily) for a top 26" or maybe larger LCD for my den for 360(and upcoming PS3) gaming, or i could simply wait for the SED's to arrive and just get the VGA adapter for the 360 and pick up a 19" NEC monitor to use as it's display.


I went for months to come to the decision of the XBR960..and it's amazing in it's PQ but i'm wondering if i jumped the gun here a bit too early.


Your thoughts on what you would do if you were mainly into 360 gaming and how you would approch a HDTV now and for the next few years?


LCD? Plasma? SED? XBR960?


It seems there is no perfect answer here for gaming, because LCD's can't reach 1080i in case there are 360/PS3 games in 1080i(or 1080p-->PS3) and the Sony XBR960 has the best PQ but it's upconverting 720p to 1080i and some have said this downgrades the PQ. Add to that a VGA adapter and you would need a very high end pc monitor to reach 1080i/p as well.


There seems to be no right answer for the perfect HDTV/display for 360/PS3 gaming and HD broadcasts. This really is very frustrating.


(don't get me wrong playing COD2/Condemned/PDZ/King Kong and other 360 games on this HDTV is like pure gaming heaven, but then i'm reading in the official Xbox magazine how upconverting in CRT's downgrades it's PQ and since nearly every option for a HDTV is not the perfect choice..and while the XBR960 is closest thing to HDTV perfection for 360 gaming, i't like i'm sticking with a betamax in the 70's or a great technology that is no longer will be supported/sold. And it's not like i can throw down $1600 every 2 years on a new HDTV so i don't want to regret it if the SED's are all they are said to be two years down the road..for about the same price, all while these will be supported for years to come. It's a very strange time in the HDTV field right now, everything is changing so rapidly and there is still no ideal type of HDTV that is setting a standard)


TIA for any advise.


----------



## Redfoot12

Hey Philip--

I'm sort of in the same boat as you except I'm agonizing between a 34xbr960 and the 50" SXRD. On the one hand, you hear that this CRT has the best picture quality, but it's on practically obsolete tech and is big and bulky. I kind of have my heart set on the 50" SXRD which, by nearly all accounts, has nearly CRT-like picture quality. I'm probably going to wait until we hear more about what the next gen SXRD's provide in terms of 1080p support, form factor, and price. I don't need to have HDTV right this moment and can wait. The 34xbr960/970 is my backup plan if I don't like what I see where SXRD is going. I don't really care for plasmas and lcd's at this point but if they come down in price, those would be something else I'd look at.


Edit to add:

SED doesn't seem like much of an option economically for another 3-4 years.


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

interesting read philip


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TCB* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just a quick post to gush about the picture on the 960 I just purchased. I am still amazed. I tried the pro settings a lot of people use, but found it all too dark. I know, I know they are reference, yadda yadda. But it still looks too dark. I'm using standard mode and it looks beautiful. I find myself watching Sunrise Earth in HD and drifting away.
> 
> 
> Furthermore, I find the 34 inch size very pleasing. I'm sitting about 7 feet away and find it immersive enough. I'm thinking our dedicated home theatre will be getting less use with this little beauty upstairs.



glad your enjoying it


----------



## PeteH579




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PhilipO38* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do you guys think i should exchange this amazing XBR960 for say a top LCD..say Sony'a Bravia ?
> 
> 
> .....
> 
> 
> And oddly the main reason i bought this HDTV was for 360/PS3 gaming, but i'm wondering if the upconverting of 720p to 1080i brings down the PQ to levels of say a LCD? Because every LCD(or most) are native 720p.
> 
> 
> .........
> 
> 
> I could easily return this(i believe..easily) for a top 26" or maybe larger LCD for my den for 360(and upcoming PS3) gaming, or i could simply wait for the SED's to arrive and just get the VGA adapter for the 360 and pick up a 19" NEC monitor to use as it's display.
> 
> 
> I went for months to come to the decision of the XBR960..and it's amazing in it's PQ but i'm wondering if i jumped the gun here a bit too early.
> 
> 
> It seems there is no perfect answer here for gaming, because LCD's can't reach 1080i in case there are 360/PS3 games in 1080i(or 1080p-->PS3) and the Sony XBR960 has the best PQ but it's upconverting 720p to 1080i and some have said this downgrades the PQ. Add to that a VGA adapter and you would need a very high end pc monitor to reach 1080i/p as well.
> 
> *There seems to be no right answer for the perfect HDTV/display for 360/PS3 gaming and HD broadcasts. This really is very frustrating.*
> 
> 
> (don't get me wrong playing COD2/Condemned/PDZ/King Kong and other 360 games on this HDTV is like pure gaming heaven, but then i'm reading in the official Xbox magazine how upconverting in CRT's downgrades it's PQ and since nearly every option for a HDTV is not the perfect choice..*and while the XBR960 is closest thing to HDTV perfection for 360 gaming, i't like i'm sticking with a betamax in the 70's or a great technology that is no longer will be supported/sold.* And it's not like i can throw down $1600 every 2 years on a new HDTV so i don't want to regret it if the SED's are all they are said to be two years down the road..for about the same price, all while these will be supported for years to come. It's a very strange time in the HDTV field right now, *everything is changing so rapidly* and there is still no ideal type of HDTV that is setting a standard)
> 
> 
> TIA for any advise.



I think you made alot of good points. Its like computers. Every 6 months there is something far better.

But I think you made a good decision in the 960 ( forget the N . My N has too much glare )

You must come to peace with yourself. I sometimes get this way but I don't intend

to go looking at anymore TV's for a few years.







Thats my solution.


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

too much glare... errr? what


----------



## PeteH579




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *irhxcbcziuzxs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> too much glare... errr? what



As I mentioned in a previous post. I had a very nice 32XBR100 which had some

type of anti glare coating to the screen. My wife and I sit about 8 feet from the set

and in two chairs which are about 3 feet apart.


After purchasing the 960N , the only disappointment was that I now could

clearly see the reflection of the rest of the room in a very reflective screen.


I'm told that the 960 HAD an anti glare coating that was removed for whatever reason

in the 960N. I would prefer a bit more anti glare coating, similar to my old TV.


But I've learned to live with it.


My point is that if I had a 960 with the presummed better anti glare coating I wouldn't be dissappointed.


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

actually the 960N has the antiglare coating on screen,


----------



## kny3twalker

actually I believe the anti-glare coating was removed to allow more light output


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

Sony's 34'' XBR is not only their best, it's the best there is!



For $350 more, the Sony KD-34XBR960N adds useful features and a longer warranty:


adjustable DRC MultiFunction V1

Twin-View 2-tuner PIP

anti-glare coating on screen

3 i.LINK ports

2-year parts-and-labor warranty


from crutchfields site


----------



## kny3twalker

the XBR960 non N had all those features

sounds like Sony/Crutchfield never bothered to update their site/info


and actually Qualia is the top of the line not XBR


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kny3twalker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> the XBR960 non N had all those features
> 
> sounds like Sony/Crutchfield never bothered to update their site/info
> 
> 
> and actually Qualia is the top of the line not XBR



this is from the page of the 34XS955 ,for 350 more, get the XBR960N , they only carry the N model, this is what sony told me as well about the glare thing.


----------



## kny3twalker

well they use to carry the XBR non N model and AFAIK all the older models had the anti-glare coating on the screen(it was listed as a feature when I purchased my XS)


there are discussions around the forum here, you can draw your own conclusion


but I am pretty sure the N meant the anti-glare coating was removed

and as I said in my previous post, it sounds like the feature list was never changed from the XBR non N


----------



## patsan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PhilipO38* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do you guys think i should exchange this amazing XBR960 for say a top LCD..say Sony'a Bravia ?
> 
> 
> It's just so strange to have bought a new tv which ran me $1599 at B.Buy(and i had to haggle the price down from $1899) a month back..and has amazing PQ but now that Sony will be stopping it's CRT lineup forever, i'm beginning to think that maybe a no purchase would have been my best option(i also have a 27" Samsung HDTV, from 3 yrs back).
> 
> 
> Don't get me wrong i love it's PQ, but there are very few HD broadcasts from Time Warner Cable in my area.(and no FOX-HD) and after the Super Bowl..while i have the YES network(thankfully) to look forward to, there is little else.
> 
> 
> And then i'm reading up on the upcoming SED tv's that will combine the PQ of a CRT with the size/weight of the LCD/Plasma's, and i'm wondering if i should just return this HDTV..maybe for a new pc rig or digital camera or just wait until there are many more HD channels on cable.
> 
> 
> And oddly the main reason i bought this HDTV was for 360/PS3 gaming, but i'm wondering if the upconverting of 720p to 1080i brings down the PQ to levels of say a LCD? Because every LCD(or most) are native 720p.
> 
> 
> I could easily return this(i believe..easily) for a top 26" or maybe larger LCD for my den for 360(and upcoming PS3) gaming, or i could simply wait for the SED's to arrive and just get the VGA adapter for the 360 and pick up a 19" NEC monitor to use as it's display.
> 
> 
> I went for months to come to the decision of the XBR960..and it's amazing in it's PQ but i'm wondering if i jumped the gun here a bit too early.
> 
> 
> Your thoughts on what you would do if you were mainly into 360 gaming and how you would approch a HDTV now and for the next few years?
> 
> 
> LCD? Plasma? SED? XBR960?
> 
> 
> It seems there is no perfect answer here for gaming, because LCD's can't reach 1080i in case there are 360/PS3 games in 1080i(or 1080p-->PS3) and the Sony XBR960 has the best PQ but it's upconverting 720p to 1080i and some have said this downgrades the PQ. Add to that a VGA adapter and you would need a very high end pc monitor to reach 1080i/p as well.
> 
> 
> There seems to be no right answer for the perfect HDTV/display for 360/PS3 gaming and HD broadcasts. This really is very frustrating.
> 
> 
> (don't get me wrong playing COD2/Condemned/PDZ/King Kong and other 360 games on this HDTV is like pure gaming heaven, but then i'm reading in the official Xbox magazine how upconverting in CRT's downgrades it's PQ and since nearly every option for a HDTV is not the perfect choice..and while the XBR960 is closest thing to HDTV perfection for 360 gaming, i't like i'm sticking with a betamax in the 70's or a great technology that is no longer will be supported/sold. And it's not like i can throw down $1600 every 2 years on a new HDTV so i don't want to regret it if the SED's are all they are said to be two years down the road..for about the same price, all while these will be supported for years to come. It's a very strange time in the HDTV field right now, everything is changing so rapidly and there is still no ideal type of HDTV that is setting a standard)
> 
> 
> TIA for any advise.



I have both, the 34" Sony and a new 61" JVC. To be perfectly honest, I like the picture better on the JVC. While there is nothing like good HD viewing, I just find that the 34" is too small for my liking. I've had the set for about a year and a half, and haven't had a single problem with it. I just felt I wanted something a little larger...hense the JVC.

I'd seriously give it some thought before jumping in and buying one over the other. There's a huge difference between a 34" and 50" screen. I don't consider the 34" to be large screen at all.


----------



## CCMOO

What if I don't need the HD-tuner? I'm a Directv customer and will be using their HD receiver. Which Sony has XBR960 quality but without the tuner? Any recommendations? Thanks...


----------



## Simm

Phillip and Redfoot: Good posts from both of you. As I posted a page or so back I am supposed to pick up my 960 from Best Buy 1/25 but am starting to have buyers remorse, especially now that the prices of the SXRD's have dropped. I am torn on trying to decide on canceling my order and going with the 50" A10 LCD or the 50" SXRD.


Just when I thought I was all set........


----------



## PhilipO38

AFAIK the only difference from the non N model(early models) to the N models(started production in August 05') is the revoval of the anti glare screen and putting it somewhat on the front glass.(like a heavy tint)


One of Sony's phone rep's confirmed this and did note that both models have there advantages as there is more refelections possible off the N models and the blacks seem even darker on the non N models, on the flip side though, more light is being sent out from the N model...simply because a heavier filter was revoved and replaced with the tinted glass(filter on the glass), so overall the N models have more brightness being output.


However in reality all anyone needs to do is set the contrast and brightness higher on the non N models to equal the N model brightness. And visa versa for getting the real dark levels of the non N model, as you would just need to just lower the brightness/contrast settings.


And the rep did mention the concern was a 'possible' build up of dust with the glare filter on the non N models..but he did admit that it comes at the cost of the screen being more reflective in some high lit rooms. (the removal was done out of precaution that maybe the dust would be a factor in more recalls/returns, but he mentioned it really has not since the change over)


Also nothing else has changes from the two models, but this.


btw: I thought i was getting the N model when i bought one from B.Buy in late Nov. 05', but i got a May 05' non N model..and was real po'ed at it, because i was guaranteed the latest 960 in inventory. But after thinking it over i actually prefer this 'mistake?" as i have a bad sensitivity to light and i always prefered a darker tube..be it a tv or pc monitor.


----------



## PhilipO38

I have one question to eveyone here:


Is the XBR960 the best HDTV available..any type, for under $2000 and in the 34" and under size range, for Xbox360 gaming(mostly 720p)?


It's cnet's reference HDTV set as they noted in their review for HD broadcasts, but i'm wondering if this is true for 360 gaming with 720p games being upconverted to 1080i.


To make it even simplier, is there a possible downgrade in PQ from upconverting 720p to 1080i that alone offsets the better PQ over LCD's and other 34"(or 32"/30") HDTV's?.


Iv'e searched many threads but nobody has mentioned 360 games specific to a 'ideal' gaming HDTV in this size range.


TIA


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PhilipO38* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have one question to eveyone here:
> 
> 
> Is the XBR960 the best HDTV available..any type, for under $2000 and in the 34" and under size range, for Xbox360 gaming(mostly 720p)?



Yes.



> Quote:
> It's cnet's reference HDTV set as they noted in their review for HD broadcasts, but i'm wondering if this is true for 360 gaming with 720p games being upconverted to 1080i.



It's handled very well. You can test the 360 at both 720p and 1080i and see which you prefer.




> Quote:
> To make it even simplier, is there a possible downgrade in PQ from upconverting 720p to 1080i that alone offsets the better PQ over LCD's and other 34"(or 32"/30") HDTV's?



No.



> Quote:
> Iv'e searched many threads but nobody has mentioned 360 games specific to a 'ideal' gaming HDTV in this size range.
> 
> 
> TIA



Gaming is a dream come true on this TV. You'd be hard pressed to do better, quite honestly.


----------



## TheAngryGolfer

I have been running the settings reccommended in this thread:


pro

32 picture

42 brightness

34 color

min sharpness

R1 hue

warm color temp


monitor color axis


why is this the best setting?


It does look good with HD content when the room is dark. its pretty dark though so during the day it can be hard to see. the standard setting is ALOT easier to see during the day.


is this what you guys reccommend for video games too?


I have been playing Xbox 360 with the same settings except 31 sharpness and neutral color temp


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheAngryGolfer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have been running the settings reccommended in this thread:
> 
> 
> pro
> 
> 32 picture *35*
> 
> 42 brightness *45*
> 
> 34 color *default 31*
> 
> min sharpness
> 
> R1 hue *default dead center 0*
> 
> warm color temp *or neutral. Your preference.*
> 
> 
> monitor color axis *Definitely! Pro and Monitor at all times, all things*
> 
> 
> why is this the best setting?



Notice a lot of us have said: "YMMV" Which means Your Mileage May Vary. These were simply ballpark recommended settings. By all means, tweak and adjust as you wish. Those are just nice starting points that a lot of us agreed upon.


Before my ISF job, I put my settings in bold besides yours above.



> Quote:
> It does look good with HD content when the room is dark. its pretty dark though so during the day it can be hard to see. the standard setting is ALOT easier to see during the day.



Very likely.



> Quote:
> is this what you guys reccommend for video games too?
> 
> 
> I have been playing Xbox 360 with the same settings except 31 sharpness and neutral color temp



In the day time, if the room is bright, you may certainly want the TV to be a little brighter. If it looks good to you, that's all that matters.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheAngryGolfer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have been running the settings reccommended in this thread:
> 
> 
> pro
> 
> 32 picture
> 
> 42 brightness
> 
> 34 color
> 
> min sharpness
> 
> R1 hue
> 
> warm color temp
> 
> 
> monitor color axis
> 
> 
> why is this the best setting?
> 
> 
> It does look good with HD content when the room is dark. its pretty dark though so during the day it can be hard to see. the standard setting is ALOT easier to see during the day.
> 
> 
> is this what you guys reccommend for video games too?
> 
> 
> I have been playing Xbox 360 with the same settings except 31 sharpness and neutral color temp



We all have different preferences so here are mine. Please note these are approximatations for HD (Video 7 with HDMI) since I'm writing from the office (don't tell anybody, ok? LOL):


MODE: Pro

Picture: 35

Brightness: 25

Color: 36

Sharpness: 27

Hue: -5

Color Temp: Neutral

Interlaced

Monitor (de-emphasis of reds)

Clear Edge: medium


Settings will be slightly different on DVD


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KR-9405* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey guys, I got a quick question. I was curious to know if anybody who has the xbr 960 did you have to take the tv out of the box outside for the set to fit through the door? Or will the box fit through the door? The only reason I'm asking this is because mine is suppose to be here Monday and there's a chance of rain. I sure wouldn't want the delivery guys taking this thing out of the box in the rain. That's why I'm hoping it will fit through the door box and all. Anyone care to shed any light on this? Thanks.




KR, how did it work out?


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

i order my TV and then all these negative things are being said, gee wiz


----------



## Dean_KS

I have searched for low costs on the net and with the warranty and authorized vendor issues, I found myself forced to go Sony direct or Crutchfield.


Have doubts about Crutchfield's 3rd party warranties re Sony's.


bhphotovideo.com looked interesting but not for the 960N only the xb960.


Sony collects sales tax for me and Crutchfield does not. Crutchfield does delivery to curb or door.


I went with Sony direct as they will deliver, unpack and locate within the house with their free delivery, went for the 4 year warranty for the cost of three (phone in orders only), and signed up for the Sony credit card with a $100 credit, Sony points and 0% interest for 1 year.


Sorry if this is all old news. I thought that there were some compelling differences, and the added perks of the $150 offsets the sales tax that one gets purchasing direct from Sony.


I can retire my 13 year old XBR.


----------



## Biochemlab




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KR-9405* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey guys, I got a quick question. I was curious to know if anybody who has the xbr 960 did you have to take the tv out of the box outside for the set to fit through the door? Or will the box fit through the door? The only reason I'm asking this is because mine is suppose to be here Monday and there's a chance of rain. I sure wouldn't want the delivery guys taking this thing out of the box in the rain. That's why I'm hoping it will fit through the door box and all. Anyone care to shed any light on this? Thanks.



For all those curious, the smallest side of the box is 30". If your doorway is not 30" you will have to take it out of the box.


----------



## KR-9405




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> KR, how did it work out?




Well, everything worked out "fairly" good. I say that because I almost crapped when the delivery guy pulled up in front of my house and was unloading this thing by himself! He had managed to get this thing out of the van by sliding the box down the bumper and getting one end on the ground before I immediately ran outside to give him a hand. It kinda pissed me off because I had to help him bring this inside, unbox it and sit it on the stand. It says on crutchfield's website that the delivery crew will unpack and put the TV in any accessable room in your home. But yet the guy was by himself and I had to help him lift this HEAVY thing into the house! I inspected the box and there were a few slight scuffs on it, but other than that is was in good shape. It also had a drop meter attached to the side of the box. So, other than the delivery, it worked out OK.


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> What if I don't need the HD-tuner? I'm a Directv customer and will be using their HD receiver. Which Sony has XBR960 quality but without the tuner? Any recommendations? Thanks...



none, Sony only includes its Super Fine Pitch tube in HDTVs (meaning tuner included)


anyways drop DirecTV and get a cable card, the quality will be much better



> Quote:
> i order my TV and then all these negative things are being said, gee wiz



AFAIK, nothing negative was said,

if you were referring to anti-glare coating being removed, not sure thats a bad thing


As far as light output, I would appreciate a brighter image, in a well lit room

(yes my XS955 does have the anti-glare coating)



> Quote:
> Have doubts about Crutchfield's 3rd party warranties re Sony's.



Crutchfield is authorized so you can get the extended warranty from Sonystyle following purchase



> Quote:
> Sony collects sales tax for me and Crutchfield does not. Crutchfield does delivery to curb or door.



Crutchfield does free in home delivery with unpacking of the TV and placing on stand


sorry you misunderstood what they do, sounds like a wasted 150 IMHO


----------



## snapperhead




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kny3twalker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Crutchfield is authorized so you can get the extended warranty from Sonystyle following purchase




kny3twalker,

I went on the Sonystyle website but didn't see how you purchase the extended warranty as a separate item. Do you know how this is done? Thanks.


----------



## PhilipO38

Guys i finally came to a conclusion about my XBR960(and i know your thinking..about time, lol).


Here's how crazy today went:


I'm first thinking while i had to haggle off $300 from a $1899 Best Buy price tag in late November, i could have done better. Then i'm thinking the tv one night did not work for 20 minutes(i needed to replug it in the surge protector to work again) and how it was a May 05' build..when i was promised one from an inventory of "at least 30" from the Best Buy saleman on the night i bought it.


So in all: 1) One time it did'nt work, 2) it has an older May 05' build date 3) and it's the older..non N model and now Sony is closing it's US CRT plant and all the others soon to follow.(So it's RIP Sony CRT's).


I was ready to return it..and maybe for a refund. (and maybe putting that toward a future 50" Sony 1080p Grand WEGA)

So i hooked up my HD cable box to my older Samsung 27" HDTV and the PQ was like going back to Digital SDTV in comparision to this XBR960.

Also i hooked my 360 up and it the PQ came noware near the 960..not in full screen 4:3 or WS 16:9.


Then i'm thinking..god i LOVE this damn tv, if only it was a newer model and Sony did'nt close it's CRT shop up.


Then i head to Best Buy and C. City and a few others. And i look at every HDTV from 26" to the Grand Wega's, and after three hours of comparing it vs the store model XBR960(non N model), i'm thinking the only HDTV that compares to this are the Grand Wega's..and in the under 40" size group nothing even comes close.


I just don't get how anyone can spend $2000 on a 34" or 32" HDTV and not look very close at it's PQ, because even the best LCD's(ie..Sony's Bravia line, Samsung's, Sharp's and others) have noware near the PQ in comparision to the XBR960, add to that the blurring effects while a few had the 360 running off them(COD2 and PGR3 were the demo's i cared about), and i'm shocked anyone would buy an LCD for gaming. For what are they buying it for..for it's smaller size? good looks? A HDTV is meant to be looked at for it's PQ not anything else..these are not pictures hanging off our walls for show. What is everyone thinking these days, do these idiots have minds?


(usually i never use the word idiot but co'me on, what are they thinking?)


Anyway..nothing comes close to the XBR960 not in the CRT group not in the LCD group and not in the Plasma/DLP group. Maybe you can make a case for the Grand Wega's but i was mainly concerned with 42" HDTV's and lower.


Seriously, if anyone would do the same and let their eyes be the judge the top CRT's(like the 960) would be selling bigtime, and not the LCD's or others, at least not in the 34" and under size range. And Sony would not be closing shop on it's CRT division..which is a damn shame because the majority of consumers these days seems to know nothing about PQ.


So in all i'm thinking it's a blessing afterall, because

1) i actually enjoy the dark tint of the non N XBR960's glare filter and i have bad sensitivity to light .

2) the tv was in a surge protecter when it did'nt work that one time[now it's in the wall outlet directly]..which is the probable cause and i have a 2 yr warranty from Sony to fall back on if needed.

3) the geometry seems really close to the best i can expect and io notice no problems in it's PQ at the least, so why mess with a good thing?


(btw: I had bought a Panasonic 20" Tau in early 2000' because it was top rated and had 600 lines of resolution..and it was a superb SDTV, but i had to go into the service menu to fix the problem of the left side being a inch or so offscreen, and that was a model with a build date only 2 months older then the day i bought it. So i know from the past, a new build date is not a guarantee for a better made tv)


So all in all, i'm very glad i got this XBR960(and the non N, for my eyes sake may turn out to be a benefit) as HD broadcasts are simply the best i have seen in any store HDTV being sold at Best Buy, C. City, Sears, Target, Sam's Club..and a few others in my area. With no visible scan lines showing..great contrast..amazing blacks, and the no worries about blurring..add to that 1080i and very good upscaling of 720p(ie..Xbox360 gameS), and the only thing lacking from it being perfect is not having a native 720p resolution.

(but no HDTV has both native 720p and 1080i i believe, right? At least not in the under 36" range and i'd rather a 720p image be upscaled to 1080i then have LCD that needs to downscale a 1080i image to 720p. And that not only includes HD broadcast but especially Xbox360 games of the future that may be native 1080i and PS3 games as well)


Thanks for reading all this, sorry if i rambled on, the XBR960 line is one amazing HDTV that many consumers seem to not know about..which is a damn shame.

(How can any consumer be willing to spend $2000 and not look for the best PQ possible? I just don't understand how so many consumers know little to nothing about electronics in general, even in 2006' with the internet and all the info available, it's not just mindboggling but also a sad fact, the majority of consumers are not very intelligent.


Now i need this amazing HDTV calibrated










PS: And about it not being able to hang off a wall or it's 200 lbs..who cares? This is not a picture here, it's a HDTV and PQ should be everyone's priority and nothing else should even come close.


----------



## Leviticus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *snapperhead* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> kny3twalker,
> 
> I went on the Sonystyle website but didn't see how you purchase the extended warranty as a separate item. Do you know how this is done? Thanks.




Go to Sonystyle's website, click on the TV & Home Entertainment tab at the top. Halfway down on the right hand side of the page is a link in blue words that says "Extended Service Plan Options" under the heading 'Protect your Investment'. I looked it up online but actually purchased over the phone. It was an easy, quick process.


Or heres the link....








SonyStyle Extended Warranty for TVs


----------



## PeteH579

Thanks for doing all that work for us all.


I think you reached a very logical conclusion.


If this flat screen craze starts to create too much peer pressure,

I'm just going to find an interior wall, cut a 40" by 25" hole in it and

put the TV in the wall.


I'll swear its a flat screen to my neighbors, they just can't go into the dining room anymore.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KR-9405* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, everything worked out "fairly" good. I say that because I almost crapped when the delivery guy pulled up in front of my house and was unloading this thing by himself! He had managed to get this thing out of the van by sliding the box down the bumper and getting one end on the ground before I immediately ran outside to give him a hand. It kinda pissed me off because I had to help him bring this inside, unbox it and sit it on the stand. It says on crutchfield's website that the delivery crew will unpack and put the TV in any accessable room in your home. But yet the guy was by himself and I had to help him lift this HEAVY thing into the house! I inspected the box and there were a few slight scuffs on it, but other than that is was in good shape. It also had a drop meter attached to the side of the box. So, other than the delivery, it worked out OK.



KR,


Let Crutchfield know of the poor experience you had with delivery. We had two delivery men come with the set - having just one is inexcusable and unfair to the delivery man as well. I'm sure he appreciated your help.


- Joe


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PeteH579* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm just going to find an interior wall, cut a 40" by 25" hole in it and
> 
> put the TV in the wall.
> 
> 
> I'll swear its a flat screen to my neighbors, they just can't go into the dining room anymore.



Pete,


That's a great idea , however, the vents on the 960 will be covered so much the set not only will overheat but burn an even







bigger hole in the wall!


----------



## BTV Mark

"A HDTV is meant to be looked at for it's PQ not anything else..these are not pictures hanging off our walls for show. What is everyone thinking these days, do these idiots have minds?"


Exactly my thoughts as well, Philip. There's only one reason to buy this set, and that's the picture quality. I wish it had a bigger screen, was only 2" thick, weight only 30 lbs, etc., etc., but I bought it for the PQ, not for anything else WHAT is it people don't get? Why isn't everyone as smart as we are?


Well, I guess the answer is we're all different, and some people buy features, not quality. And the weight/depth may be too much for some folks. And some may worry about the resale with Sony moving away from CRT's. Finally, they obviously don't care as much as we do about the picture quality. But still, it's hard for me to understand why these '960's aren't flying off the shelves.


Mark


----------



## Biochemlab

People believe marketing, Mark. It's that simple. CRT's are "outdated." Ask any marketing firm.


The one that gets me is why so many people were buying 4:3 "HDTV's" back in 1998 - '99. There was MAYBE 1 HD source available, and it was like Discovery HD or something.... People were going out and spending $3K - $5K+ on a set with nothing to watch on it. Heck, here were are at 2006 and we still don't have HD-DVD/Blu-Ray out yet.


The other thing is, people don't understand that HDTV is not the same as regular TV. For many many years, there was a huge selection of SD sets, and they all displayed the same picture... though some did it FAR better than others. SO, when HDTV came out, people thought it was the same signal/image but on a better screen. It has been 7+ years since HDTV began being marketed, and I don't think most people understand that only HD signals are HD.


Sorry for the rant, I am just sick of the forced misperceptions put out by the media and marketing departments. Just yesterday they were explaining on the NEWS the difference between HDTV and regular TV. Quote: "Standard definition TV is only 240 lines of resolution, while HDTV is a full 1080 lines. 4 - 5 times as much." - Man, that pissed me off. If SDTV is 240 (480i = 240 lines move at a time) then HDTV is either 720p or 1080i (720 = 720lines move at one time, 1080 = 540 lines move at one time). There is no 1080p at this time!!


ARRRGH!!!!


----------



## williamtassone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PhilipO38* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have one question to eveyone here:
> 
> 
> Is the XBR960 the best HDTV available..any type, for under $2000 and in the 34" and under size range, for Xbox360 gaming(mostly 720p)?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TIA



A resounding YES



I have sampled Loewe and Metz, Toshiba and Panasonics version of the fine pitch tube and I am still of the opinion that the XBR960 is King


In fact , for its size , the Sony Super Fine Pitch televisions are the best consumer televions in history.


The only way to beat the picture quality is to go to Sony's professional broadcast monitors which will cost you the price of a Ford mustang.


When I see George Lucas abandon his Cine Alta monitor for LCD than we can say the others have caught up to CRT


----------



## PhilipO38

Does anyone know of a website that clearly shows exactly how 720p is upscaled to 1080i and how 1080i is downscaled to 720p as well?


Also, when the XBR960 upscales a 720p input to 1080i is it downscaling it to 520p first or simply upconverting it to 1080i without ever downscaling it to 520p?


(in another forum..not here at avs, someone had said that a 720p input upscaled to native 1080i, is actually really being downscaled to 520p and then upscaled to 1080i. This seems so off base as i would have thought why downscale it?.)


TIA


----------



## triumph66




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PhilipO38* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> PS: And about it not being able to hang off a wall or it's 200 lbs..who cares? This is not a picture here, it's a HDTV and PQ should be everyone's priority and nothing else should even come close.



Here, here! Someone has seen the light and needs to share it with others.


----------



## lsfrankel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheAngryGolfer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have been running the settings reccommended in this thread:
> 
> 
> pro
> 
> 32 picture
> 
> 42 brightness
> 
> 34 color
> 
> min sharpness
> 
> R1 hue
> 
> warm color temp
> 
> 
> monitor color axis
> 
> 
> why is this the best setting?
> 
> 
> It does look good with HD content when the room is dark. its pretty dark though so during the day it can be hard to see. the standard setting is ALOT easier to see during the day.
> 
> 
> is this what you guys reccommend for video games too?
> 
> 
> I have been playing Xbox 360 with the same settings except 31 sharpness and neutral color temp



The settings you have listed here are simply the PRO default settings you get when you hit "Reset". There is nothing to stop you or anyone from just keeping the mode at PRO and going in to the Video section of Menu and turning up or down any of the categories as you wish. Is there?


----------



## mahicks

Mines here!!!!


It arrived this morning from B & H photo, by way of ABF freightways. They both did an EXCELLENT JOB. I didn't pay for white glove but the ABF guy helped me get the TV into the house, into our bedroom, unpack it, and get it on a 40" tall dresser. I tried, pleaded, and begged him to take two $20's. My wife even stuck them in his shirt pocket, but as he left, he pulled the money out and left it by the door. He told her he couldn't take the money.

I told my wife to call the ABF lady that called us last week to schedule a delivery time and get a supervisor, this guy went above and beyond and needs to be recognized.


ANYWAYS....


The box was missing the entire top left/front corner. It was just ripped off by something and the styrofoam was broken in that area.

The tv has zero visual damage, and was factory sealed (except for the hole in the box.) ABF had it straped to a pallet, so I guess the box damage was from B &H before shipping.


Regardless, the TV works fine, after almost an hour of channel searching, I'm watching tv!!


The picture is amazing. I'm still playing with the picture settings. Especially on the cable connection.


Does anyone have any settings they recommend? I find the PRO mode to be too dark. I have an ISF'd RP Tosh and the PRO model is A LOT darker than it.

I find VIVID to equal TORCH, the MOVIE mode to be too brown, and standard to be off.


I also noticed when I changed a picture setting in OTA digital, the same setting would tranfer over to the analog cable. I thought the XBR had user settings for each input??


Anyways, it's beautiful, works great, was shipped great, and I got a great price. Overall, I'm very satisfied with ABF freight and B & H photo.


BTW the 960 non N model (Sept. 05 manufacture date) I received does a FABULOUS job of cutting down on glare. The 20" superflat Pananasonic it's replacing could be used as a mirror in the daytime. The Sony blocks almost everything.


----------



## triumph66

Awesome mahicks...congrats! My set is a September 2005 as well and so far it's been flawless. *knocks on wood*


Here are my settings for watching tv, not dvd. Give these a shot and see what you think.


Mode: Pro


Pic: 32

Bri: 44

Col: 34

Hue: 0

Sharp: MIN

Color Temp: Warm(Neutral ever so often but the Warm looks much better to my eyes and appears sharper with really bright scenes)


Clear Edge VM: OFF


Adv. Video -> Color Axis: Monitor


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Mahicks


That was an especially nice gesture letting the supervisor know how pleased you and the Mrs. were with the extra and voluntary work by the deliveryman, who would not even accept the well deserved $40 he was offered. And welcome to the club of happy owners of the 960!


These are my settings for HD, DVD and VHS. Don't be surprised if you fiddle back and forth for a while until settling in - we all did! Don't forget, these are just suggestions - the final adjustments should be the ones you and your wife feel are best.


All are set to:


MODE: PRO

COLOR TEMP: NEUTRAL

CLEAR EDGE: MEDIUM

DCR MODE: CINEMOTION

COLOR AXIS: MONITOR


While close, adjustments are slightly different for each input:


VIDEO 7 (HDMI): Picture 32, Brightness 22, Color 37, HUE r5, Sharpness 36


VIDEO 6 (DVD): Picture 36, Brightness 22, Color 41, HUE r5, Sharpness 33, Custom Pallete r87, c85


VIDEO 5 (DVD Recorder): Picture 35, Brightness 32, Color 40, HUE r5, Sharpness 31, Custom Palette r87, d85


Video 4 (VHS): Picture 31, Brightness 27, Color 35, HUE r5, Shaprness 25, Custom Palette r87, d85


My DVD player has a high brightness output hence the lower setting for brightness.


Again, these are all subjective. I did use a THX optomizer for the two DVD units and adjusted HD and VHS to reproduce in the same manner. You are going to notice improved quality in VHS playback too!


Have fun and let us know how it's working out.


----------



## mahicks

Thank you all for the settings.

I got a Sony HDMI/Upconverting dvd player delivered from electronics expo (great business, cheap price, great shipping) delivered from UPS a couple of hours ago. I set it up for 1080I output w/ a monoprice 6' cable.


I used the THX optimizer from the incredibles. My initial settings are a little off from both of yours. I'll post them after I try a few different discs. My settings will be a little brighter than both of yours. I actually prefer the darker picture, but this tv is for the bedroom and my wifes eye takes preference. She likes a brighter picture, so we will have to meet in the middle.


So far all i can say is OH MY GOD. I have great equipment in the Home Theater room, but this thing, w/ this dvd player is amazing. The debate over using an upscaling dvd player on a crt tv is now officially over! At least for me anyways. I watched about 20 minutes of the disc and it really seems to be HD quality. For as long as I've been in the hobby, it's still nice to get the "goose bump" factor, and this TV w/ this player surely fits the bill!!


Also, I posted a few times about the perfect stand i was searching in vain for.

All of the nice stands for this tv were too short for bedroom, high bed use. I instead purchased an unfinished solid oak 4 drawer dresser thats 40"H X 22"W X 40" wide from a local furniture maker. I spent a full day sanding it, and about two days straight applying MiniWax Ebony wood finish. The project turned out perfect. It's a chocolate"y" black in the darker wood grain with a slight amber tinge in the lighter woodgrain and is absolutely beautiful. The dresser is more than solid for this tv and is perfect fit for it. It's something that will last a lifetime. To see the TV sitting on it is stunning. If I can find what my son did w/ the digital camera, I'll take some pictures and post them.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Mahicks,


Sounds like a nice set up. We're so happy with our home theater system and agree, the DVDs look almost HD. As I mentioned before, even VHS tapes are nice to look at.


So your wife is the boss too? That makes two of us. Guess we're not a "king of the castle" but at least have a 960 LOL.


----------



## Jon S

when I calibrate my brightness levels using VE, my contrast is at 32 but brightness is set at 48. My set seems awfully dim otherwise.


----------



## CR_Client

When I saw the 970 on Sony's site, I was a little scared that I was going to over-pay on a 960. Below are the differences I found from the "model compare" on Sony's site.


Cable Card Slot:

960 - PCMCIA Type I/II

970 - No


Speakers:

960 - 7.5 W x 2 + 15 W subwoofer

970 - 10W x 2


Memory Stick Viewer:

960 - Yes, 970 - No


Composite Video In:

960 - 1 Front, 3 Rear

970 - 1 Front, 2 Rear


RF In:

960 - 2 RF in, with internal switcher

970 - 1 RF in


Audio In:

960 - 1 Front, 6 Rear *6???*

970 - 1 Front, 2 Rear


iLink:

960 - 3 Total (1 Front)

970 - None


Control S:

960 - 1, 970 - None


Dimensions:

960 is 1/8" shorter, and 1/8" deeper than 970 (960 - 39 1/8"W x 25 5/8"H x 23 7/8"D)

960 weighs 6 pounds more (196lbs vs 190lbs)


And, of course, the MSRP on the 970 is $700 less than the 960.


Now, the question is, is a CableCard slot worth $700? No, not by itself. With iLink, maybe there's more justification in price, as with the Memory Stick Viewer, but I don't see myself using the Mem Stick slot any time soon.


The second RF is easily worth $200 to me, honestly, as I use an OTA antenna for HD, and have basic cable for cable. The comparison specs don't even mention the lack of this second RF in.


I also noticed in the owner's manual pictures that the 970 uses coax audio out, while the 960 uses optical. I'm out of coax audio inputs on my receiver, so having the optical on the 960 is worthwhile to me.


I think that the current sale price at my local BB ($1700) is worth the extra features, but I'll probably try and haggle them down a little lower if I have it in me.


The 970 is practially entry-level in terms of available inputs/outputs compared to the 960. The steep drop in price is a lot better understood in this light.


----------



## kny3twalker

the XBR970 is just a KV-34HS420 with an ATSC(HD) tuner

and the who knows who makes this TV in reality?


it does not have the better tube, twinview, DRC adjustable palettes


the better tube apparently is alot of the cost for the XBR960


----------



## CR_Client

Just wanted to let people know how much this thread helped me this week when I was looking for a bigger TV than my current 26" Sammy. Lots of great info, and though it sometimes sounds biased, based on what I saw with my own eyes in the store, every glowing review was well-deserved!


It's in the box in my living room now, hope to have it set up tomorrow afternoon and I'll report back. I wouldn't bother reporting back, but I got the non-N model, and I've always had a glare problem in the past, so I'll be reporting on that aspect.


If I can tear myself away from it...


----------



## dfitz43

Hi all,

I've been following this thread pretty closely, as well as the news that Sony is shutting down stateside tube production come spring.


I'll be moving in mid-March, so I'm looking to get a 960 (N or otherwise) when I get to my new place.


Do you guys think that inventories are going to be getting so tight that it's going to be hard to find one in a couple of months, or should I not worry about this? I'm likely to go with one of the reputable mail order places (sonystyle, crutchfield, or b&H).


Thanks in advance for any insight.


cheers,

Dave


----------



## Gage33




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dfitz43* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I've been following this thread pretty closely, as well as the news that Sony is shutting down stateside tube production come spring.
> 
> 
> I'll be moving in mid-March, so I'm looking to get a 960 (N or otherwise) when I get to my new place.
> 
> 
> Do you guys think that inventories are going to be getting so tight that it's going to be hard to find one in a couple of months, or should I not worry about this? I'm likely to go with one of the reputable mail order places (sonystyle, crutchfield, or b&H).
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for any insight.
> 
> 
> cheers,
> 
> Dave



I just called Sony to confirm that the 970 does not have the super fine pitch tube (which it does not) and I also asked if the 960 was being discontinued. He said that he had checked this earlier and it is *NOT* being discontinued. Anyway, if it were, why would they both to come out with the N model?


Update: I have been calling around to local CC's and other local TV stores and they are all saying that the xs955 and xbr960 are all discontinued. So I am confused. Maybe they are all transitioning to the N models of the 955 and 960?


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

does this XBR here have DVI/HDMI crap?

or am i gonna kick myself in the ass when blueray and ps3 comes out


----------



## regor13

When I bought mine in late December CC only had 105 in inventory of the 960 and no N's. Now it is not advertised on the CC web site at all. Could they all be gone? Glad I got mine when I did and lov'n it.


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> Update: I have been calling around to local CC's and other local TV stores and they are all saying that the xs955 and xbr960 are all discontinued. So I am confused. Maybe they are all transitioning to the N models of the 955 and 960?



BB and CC discontinuing selling the XBR, does not mean Sony has Sony discontinued the product


this assumption is not a good one, and if you do not know but when you assume, you make an ASS(out of)U(and)ME


so becareful how you draw conclusions, but I would say if you want the XBR960 get it now



> Quote:
> does this XBR here have DVI/HDMI crap?



read your manual, or check the specs sheet at Sonystyle, no one should have to hold your hand, but yes it does have a HDMI port


----------



## masbama

Here is the truth about the 'N' models. Straight from the top!


"Thank you for contacting Sony Style Customer Care.


In regard to your recent inquiry, there is no difference between the two. The N at the end of the product number basically indicates that product available from a third party"


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *masbama* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here is the truth about the 'N' models. Straight from the top!
> 
> 
> "Thank you for contacting Sony Style Customer Care.
> 
> 
> In regard to your recent inquiry, there is no difference between the two. The N at the end of the product number basically indicates that product available from a third party"



hmm, well i had sony tell me it was a different glare thing


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *irhxcbcziuzxs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> does this XBR here have DVI/HDMI crap?
> 
> or am i gonna kick myself in the ass when blueray and ps3 comes out



i know it has one HDMI thing, i dont know what DVI is, but i just dont want to kick myself when hd-dvd and blue ray and ps3 come out


----------



## masbama

Well irh, then paste the comment like I did.


----------



## eddiecook

I have a Sony KD-34XBR960 HDTV. My cable provider is Comcast.


One of the features I really liked about this TV is TwinView. TwinView worked great when I first got the TV. I was able to use both sides with no problems, no issues.


Then I got CableCard. While I love the ability to switch from channel to channel without having to use a cable box to receive HD programming, I was disappointed that my TwinView feature no longer worked.


Then, tonight I discovered this forum and thought I had found an answer to my dilemna. I did as suggested by others and had my cable line go into a splitter, one line on the other side to my cable port on my TV and the other line to my VHF/UHF port.


I understand that I would only be able to see channels under 100 on the right side. That's no problem. The problem is that I can only see ONE channel on the right (VHF/UHF) side of the twinview - channel 97 - GPB (Georgia Public Broadcasting). I cannot figure out a way to get any other channels added, and when I punch in the numbers for any channels I know exist I see nothing but a blank screen and the message "DTV Not Available" even though the channel number I punched in was not a digital channel.


When I try to AutoProgram the channels again, I am unable to do so because the AutoProgram option is disabled (I don't know why - I was able to use AutoProgram until the Comcast installed my CableCard, but ever since they set up my CableCard, AutoProgram has been disabled).


What do I need to do to resolve this issue?


Thanks for your help and your time.


Eddie Cook


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> i know it has one HDMI thing, i dont know what DVI is, but i just dont want to kick myself when hd-dvd and blue ray and ps3 come out



DVI is another digital video interface


HDMI is newer and includes digital audio


you will be able to use HD DVD and Blu Ray players with your HDMI port


the PS3 does not require HDMI connection for HD gaming, only Blu Ray movies


first topic from google when entering DVI

http://www.webopedia.com/TERM/D/DVI.html 


but try reading this one

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DVI 


wiki is very reader friendly



> Quote:
> "Thank you for contacting Sony Style Customer Care.
> 
> 
> In regard to your recent inquiry, there is no difference between the two. The N at the end of the product number basically indicates that product available from a third party"



from what I understand on the XBR(N), the anti glare coating on the screen was removed to allow more light output, meaning a brighter screen


----------



## masbama

Hey kny3: who told you about the anti glare coating denoting the 'N' designation? I pasted my quote from Sony; would you do the same complete with source? I think your info was a rumor started on this website.


----------



## PathofNeo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PhilipO38* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just don't get how anyone can spend $2000 on a 34" or 32" HDTV and not look very close at it's PQ, because even the best LCD's(ie..Sony's Bravia line, Samsung's, Sharp's and others) have noware near the PQ in comparision to the XBR960, add to that the blurring effects while a few had the 360 running off them(COD2 and PGR3 were the demo's i cared about), and i'm shocked anyone would buy an LCD for gaming. For what are they buying it for..for it's smaller size? good looks? A HDTV is meant to be looked at for it's PQ not anything else..these are not pictures hanging off our walls for show. What is everyone thinking these days, do these idiots have minds?



Umm...after reading your earlier posts and seeing that you were at first unsure of what technology is right for you, I guess I can let this slide but really these words I can take personal and very much the wrong way esp. after I am about to invest some $$ into an LCD.


I think of the XBR960 much in the same manner as an Oppo dvd player. On paper it sounds like it's the benchmark for everything in it's price range and they make it out to seem like the holy grail and end all solution for hdtv viewing. Well, The XBR960 may possibly have the highest PQ under $5000 and I won't argue that point but the fact is it's not intended for a wide audience these days. Otherwise, why is CRT going the way of VHS? About the Oppo, that's just a gimmick with some nifty features. My 5 year old Hitachi dvd player with progressive scan has the same results on both Sony crt, Sammy lcd, and Pio plasma (yes I have tested them all).


So anyway, I would reassure yourself about some of today's LCD's not having super PQ. Why would I spent $2000 on an LCD? Because I happen to think it pwns an XBR960 in the gaming department. The 32" Sony Bravia not only is brighter and more vivid in each and every single Xbox 360 game (again, I've tested almost all of them to the 960) but also actually more sharp and lifelike. Trying playing Perfect Dark Zero on your 960 and it just seems to dark, I had to crank up the settings to torch mode to get any kinda of colorful image and at that point, it ruined the picture. Any typical LCD, let along the Bravia is nothing short of a breathtaking experience for Xbox, and I'm sure the same with PS3 due out this year. Your kidding yourself if you believe otherwise.


Ghosting? What ghosting? I noticed about as much ghosting with the Bravia as I did in the 960 if that tells you anything. Maybe just to be fair I saw a couple smearing effects after playing for hours but I mean...... I'll take that for its superior gaming. Try playing Call of Duty 2 on the Bravia and you can see all the details in the gun he's holding. Not in the 960. The 960 does have detail (probably the best in the CRT world) but don't try and compare it to the XBR1.


I also don't buy my tvs to hang on the walls and for show. If I saw the same PQ in the 960 as I do in the Bravia for Xbox, I would have cut out a hole in the wall like someone on this thread mentioned before I got any thin screen. The only thing I see the 960 has is its superior black level and detail. LCD's haven't been around too long and not as good in this department. They're not quite there but I garantee by the end of this decade that your average and affordable LCD will have 1080p (as well as the sources) and folks will have a hard time walking outside their house due to being spoiled by better than life appearances on the screen. You watch. ----and how long has it taken CRT's to put out an image such as the XBR960? Hmm. I think the rapid improvement rate favors an LCD but I'll let you gather your own conclusion. It's all about trial and error and I for one can appreciate big company's throwing out LCD's that are "not-quite-as-good-as-crt-yet" products because I firmly believe that there's more potential in an LCD. The black levels I feel are minor given the improvements they already made. Only an LCD will put out an image that'll make you wanna smack your mother 5-10 years from now. But I guess I could join the CRT bandwagon now and hang on to my dinosaur and think to myself there will never be anything better. Shameful.


So yeah, I think you need to be real with yourself and literally somehow put a 32" or 40" Bravia LCD next to a 960. I don't mean in the same store but right next to each other. This will be hard to do since they hide the 960 but if and when you do you'll notice that there's hardly any difference. I can say this because I was once stuck on crt's and still have a softspot for them just like my vhs's. I'm not some new age punk that can't appreciate a good tube (or boobtube). I'm only 26 years old so I haven't experienced what others here have yet, but I can tell you that if after 50+ years the best crt can do is the XBR960 than I can fully understand why there being dropped.


This entire statement was not meant to be offensive and Philip I do wish you the best, and glad you enjoy your purchase with your set. I just wanted to shed some insight to the ones who may be pondering whether a tube tv will triumph all others. I have my opinion and respect all of yours. One thing I am jealous about right now is that I did catch Sin City on the 960 and it rocked my world.


Take care


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> Hey kny3: who told you about the anti glare coating denoting the 'N' designation? I pasted my quote from Sony; would you do the same complete with source? I think your info was a rumor started on this website.



well Sony Customer Service is not a good source, they told me Cinemotion was an audio effect like TruSurround XT


I think to know whether the anti-glare coating was removed, you would simply just need to compare both in a brightly lighted showroom


----------



## tomt1962

Everybody keeps pushing the LCD & DLP projection tv's at you in the store.

It would appear that they are a better value, however nobody ever mentions that after about 1 year, or maybe 2 if you're lucky, you going to have to replace that projection bulb. Those babies cost at least $200 ... some are closer to $300.


I've owned the 30" XBR for almost 2 years, and we love it. It's awesome to watch sporting events & DVDs on. Even 480i looks ok.


I want a new TV for the basement, as the old 32" Sony has developed some problems. (It was free from work, so I can't complain.) but I don't think I can lug a 34" down there.


I've also been looking at some direct view LCDs. At least those bulbs are rated to last 50,000 hours. Westinghouse is the best price at BB for a 32". Nice how they hook up that TV RF, and a Bravia component! Does anybody keep these in their house with young kids around?


Last but not least, the 30" slimfit from Samsung looks nice, but I've read some people complain about geometry issues.


Just have to keep shopping I Guess.


----------



## kny3twalker

well if you do not like the geometry issues of the Samsung, how would you like the washed-out, grayish-green color of the Westinghouse LCDs?


not saying you should drag a heavy 34" CRT in the basement on some narrow staircase, but there are a lot of options for LCDs or Plasmas without looking at the bottom of the barrel


Sony has two new 32" LCDs, the U and new S series

as well as the older A10 (S) and XBR1 series


the new U series will start at 1699, new S at 1999, and the XBR1 is 2699 and the older A10 is 1999 (MSRPs)


of course you will be able to get the A10s cheaper once the U series is released in Feb


but just so know there are alot of options(this is just Sonys options for 32" LCDs)


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Interesting debate about CRT vs flat screen. One point not raised is the issue of depth perception. Good CRTs, and especially the 960, offer a sense of visual depth which seems to be lacking on LCDs or Plasmas. This illusion of 3-D does add to the viewing enjoyment, especially with live sporting events.


Has anybody else noticed this as well?


----------



## TCB




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Interesting debate about CRT vs flat screen. One point not raised is the issue of depth perception. Good CRTs, and especially the 960, offer a sense of visual depth which seems to be lacking on LCDs or Plasmas. This illusion of 3-D does add to the viewing enjoyment, especially with live sporting events.
> 
> 
> Has anybody else noticed this as well?



Excellent point, Joseph. The XBR 960 is 3D like. Kind of like the diaramas we made in school with shoe boxes. Remember those?


----------



## PeteH579

PathofNeo your points well stated. It is after all a very personal decision.


>>If I saw the same PQ in the 960 as I do in the Bravia for Xbox, I would have cut out a hole in the wall like someone on this thread mentioned before I got any thin screen.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TCB* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Excellent point, Joseph. The XBR 960 is 3D like. Kind of like the diaramas we made in school with shoe boxes. Remember those?



Thanks TCB,


Don't remember using shoe boxes but do recall doodling all the time drawing two squares and connecting the corners of each with straight lines to appear 3-D. Do you remember the 3-D comics with those glasses?


I assume most don't notice this lack in depth when first looking at Plasmas and LCDs because (as with me) they are impressed with picture quality. I was aware of LCD black level limitations but when viewing a 17 inch model I also noticed the dimensional appearance appeared un-natural, even for television (i.e., the same effect looking through binoculars). Thought it might be due to a small screen size but later on saw a nature program on a large plasma and again noticed a limited sense of depth perception.


The fact this has been overlooked by most had me thinking it might be me - glad to see I'm not the only one.


Joe


----------



## doretta




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *masbama* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey kny3: who told you about the anti glare coating denoting the 'N' designation? I pasted my quote from Sony; would you do the same complete with source? I think your info was a rumor started on this website.



Dude, if you take one response from a company to be the for-sure, definitive answer to a question you are in trouble.


I'm worried that if you ever have to talk to more than one CSR from your local cable company about a problem your brain will explode like a computer fed contradictory information by Captain Kirk.


More than one person here has been told by Sony that the difference between the 960 and 960N has to do with the anti-glare feature. At least one person has verified that his 960 has a non-glare plastic sheet on the surface of the glass--he described the process by which he removed it.


It may be a rumor, but to me it's a more credible rumor than your cut-and-paste job.


----------



## masbama

Doretta: I'm just providing actual information provided by Sony. At least its legit unlike non provable rumors on this website. Settle down, sport.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *masbama* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Doretta: I'm just providing actual information provided by Sony. At least its legit unlike non provable rumors on this website. Settle down, sport.



Masbama, which 960 do you have? The 960 or the 960N?


----------



## masbama

960


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *masbama* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 960



I was hoping you had an "N" so we could compare them. I have the 960 as well.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *doretta* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> brain will explode like a computer fed contradictory information by Captain Kirk.



Need to clarify if computers, etc. would usually blow up after Captain Kirk's feed of contradictory information. Starfleet's computer banks show:


The M-5 shut down everything on the Enterprise but did not explode.


The Changeling eventually exploded but not until Kirk and Spock transported it to the furthest reaches of space.


Rayna, an artificial intelligence who became human, died from the emotional shock of not being able to handle the conflict of a love triangle between her, Kirk and Flint.


Harry Mudd's androids crashed trying to figure out contradictory information while Norman simply overheated - it can be debated if these qualify as brain explosions or just conking out.


Live long and prosper with your 960s or 960Ns.


----------



## bbbobbb

Somebody set us up the bomb


All your base are belong to us


----------



## Anie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TCB* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just a quick post to gush about the picture on the 960 I just purchased. I am still amazed. I tried the pro settings a lot of people use, but found it all too dark. I know, I know they are reference, yadda yadda. But it still looks too dark. I'm using standard mode and it looks beautiful. I find myself watching Sunrise Earth in HD and drifting away.
> 
> 
> Furthermore, I find the 34 inch size very pleasing. I'm sitting about 7 feet away and find it immersive enough. I'm thinking our dedicated home theatre will be getting less use with this little beauty upstairs.



I've had the same experience. When I go to Circuit City and see the

larger plasma and LCD screens I wonder why they sell so well, except

that it's fun to see a BIG picture, I agree. But the quality of the pic just

can't compare. And, like you, the sofa here is about 7 ft away.


I feel as if I'm looking out a window with a changing view, with HD

programming of high quality content. It doesn't feel as if I'm looking

at a tv. The large screens I've seen made of other technologies look

almost transparent to me. Or, less rounded, more flat. The detail

and contrast on the XBR960 is almost scary.


On the other hand I did see a good Panasonic 44" LCD selling

for only $1500, and the 60" Sony XBR flat panel for $5,000 was

pretty impressive


----------



## digimiX

i just purchased a KD-34XBR960. i'm not seeing the full picture on my directv box. i believe this is overscan, right? can i fix this? it's looks like 5% or so. i know how to access the service menu. all network logos are getting cut off!! argh!! thanks in advance.


----------



## digimiX

also... the upper right hand corner looks green, almost like a magnet is near by. someone is coming to look at it today. anyone else had this problem? what could it be?


----------



## CR_Client

I got my XBR960 hooked up this weekend, and popped in a Lucasfilm DVD to calibrate the Pro setting. I popped a movie in, and I must say, you can't even tell that it's only 480p unless you pause the movie. Got my PS2 running GT4 in 1080i, and other than the fact that it's still a computer graphic, the level of detail is amazing. I can't even see the individual vertical scan lines like I could on my Sammy 26" HD tube.


I, too would like to have the HD/BluRay debate solved, but for now, with this TV, I don't care, because current DVDs look amazing!


Oh, and I have the non-N model. There's very obviously SOME sort of anti-glare features on the TV, as the reflection of my back-lit shades are purplish and darker than they used to be on my Sammy. But, it appears that it's a curved tub behind a flat piece of glass, as there are two distinct and differently-sized reflections per window.


Now, I can't say that I'd be able to watch Constantine in the middle of a sunny day, but the glare is reduced more than enough to watch movies on a partly cloudy day or with the lights on.


Also, I used to have some problems pulling in my OTA HD channels in the past, but it's nice to have the built-in tuner to be able to pull my cable's local unencrypted HD and digital feeds as a backup (took the full 50 minutes to auto-program... well worth it!)


BTW, I'm not a Sony Fan-Boy. I'm only a recent convert to this particular TV.


----------



## PeteH579




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *digimiX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i just purchased a KD-34XBR960. i'm not seeing the full picture on my directv box. i believe this is overscan, right? can i fix this? it's looks like 5% or so. i know how to access the service menu. all network logos are getting cut off!! argh!! thanks in advance.



Are you in Zoom mode? You need to set it to Normal.


I also upgraded my directv box.


----------



## PeteH579




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *digimiX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> also... the upper right hand corner looks green, almost like a magnet is near by. someone is coming to look at it today. anyone else had this problem? what could it be?



First I left the set on for a few days and turned off and on a few times.


I then worked with the regular menu accessed from the remote.

I set the video to Pro and adjusted some of the picture and color settings which

are mentioned all over this thread.


At this point the green blotch was about 50% better.


I then went into the service menu . Using the spread sheet I worked on

settings for convergence in the top right. Also Landing settings. I worked methodically and first wrote down the original setting and then only changed a setting

by one number.


After about 30 minutes of trial and error I noticed the green was entirely gone

in the upper right corner.


I stopped changing things and have now been just enjoying the view.


I'll look up what I changed if it is important but my guess is each set might

be different.


----------



## iamhives

Looking to get a good deal on the XBR960/960N as it phases out - I already have one but like it so much want another for another room. Any recommendations on where and when to get one - I'm flexible in terms of timing. What do you think will be the lowest easily achievable price - $1300?


----------



## digimiX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PeteH579* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are you in Zoom mode? You need to set it to Normal.
> 
> 
> I also upgraded my directv box.



It is in Full Mode. 1080i from the DirecTV box. cannot be adjusted in the directv settings or in the normal menu settings on the sony. anyone know how to adjust this via the service menu? also, i'm trying to record OTA shows via the IEEE1394 port to my G5. i'm having no luck. both the tv and the mac see each other but the DVHS app that comes with the Firewire SDK is not working. anyone here got this to work?


----------



## [email protected]

Backorder on stand for 34XBR960N.


I ordered BLACK Friday from Sony and am still waiting.


Are there any alternatives out there?


Need space for B & W HTM7 center speaker, Denon 4806 and 5910 DVD, STB, and Sony VCR.


Anyone with similar set-up?


----------



## Nonnie

Just picked up my 34XBR960 from Best Buy. They honored a price match against B&H Photo for $1399.00. I guess the manager really wants to move the two he had, no problem with matching the price. Plus I got special financing on the Best Buy card, no interest until 2009.


If anybody is looking, check them out.


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Backorder on stand for 34XBR960N.
> 
> 
> I ordered BLACK Friday from Sony and am still waiting.
> 
> 
> Are there any alternatives out there?
> 
> 
> Need space for B & W HTM7 center speaker, Denon 4806 and 5910 DVD, STB, and Sony VCR.
> 
> 
> Anyone with similar set-up?



Most big box stores that carry the set, likely have the stand. Do you have any BBs or the like, in your area? If not, I'd bet you can have one shipped from Crutchfield, BB or 6th Ave online.


Regarding that amount of equipment though, it will be tough to use a sony stand. I went with it while orginally planning on the CableCard route. I've since gotten addicted to the DVR and have too many components... so I've gone to a second for audio equipment.


----------



## CR_Client




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nonnie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just picked up my 34XBR960 from Best Buy. They honored a price match against B&H Photo for $1399.00. I guess the manager really wants to move the two he had, no problem with matching the price. Plus I got special financing on the Best Buy card, no interest until 2009.
> 
> 
> If anybody is looking, check them out.



I wonder if they'd price-match after the fact to an online retailer? I just picked one up this past weekend for $1699, didn't know about the B&H price.


Printed out the prices and the Sony page showing that B&H is an authorised retailer, so we'll see!


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CR_Client* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I wonder if they'd price-match after the fact to an online retailer? I just picked one up this past weekend for $1699, didn't know about the B&H price.
> 
> 
> Printed out the prices and the Sony page showing that B&H is an authorised retailer, so we'll see!



I was not able to find a better deal, but I know when I purchased my 960 through BB/Magnolia, I had a 30 day window to find a better advertised price. I did not check the fine print but I would imagine there are limitations (e.g., authorized dealer, local, etc.). Check your receipt and/or call the store.


Oh and if B&H is the same store as the one outside the Lincoln Tunnel (West side, somewhere in the 30s/40s), they are not just an online retailer. Very nice store with knowlegable staff... esp. in the world of cameras.


----------



## Nonnie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Oh and if B&H is the same store as the one outside the Lincoln Tunnel (West side, somewhere in the 30s/40s), they are not just an online retailer. Very nice store with knowlegable staff... esp. in the world of cameras.



That's them, great store and excellent reputation. I guess that is part of the reason I had no problem with the price match.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Backorder on stand for 34XBR960N.
> 
> 
> I ordered BLACK Friday from Sony and am still waiting.
> 
> 
> Are there any alternatives out there?
> 
> 
> Need space for B & W HTM7 center speaker, Denon 4806 and 5910 DVD, STB, and Sony VCR.
> 
> 
> Anyone with similar set-up?



Norman,


Is the center speaker too large to be placed on top of the 960? We have an average size Yamaha and it rests just fine (it's a little deeper than the flat space on the top but not enough to worry about tipping).


While the Dennon might fit on the bottom shelf there might not be enough space above it for proper ventilation (we have a separate rack for our audio components).


On the center shelf is our HD DVR; on the bottom is a DVD player with a DVD recorder on top of it (same size each) and to the right of those a VCR. Length wise they just barely make it next to each other but there is ample enough space for ventilation. There is no other room for any other component.


----------



## snapperhead

Best Buy has the 960 on sale. Should I care whether it's the non "N" model? Should I have any concerns?

Help, please.


----------



## [email protected]

Joseph,


Just tried your idea on top of TV set. Looks awkward and is unstable -- it is not a symmetrical spkr; 19 lbs; mahagony finish looks weird; etc


Ctr spkr is 17" W X 12" H X 11" D and seems to fit in SU34XB3 stand with Option #2 shelf, leaving 3 3/8" below that for STB/DVR and/or VCR side by side.


I guess we'll consider the Denon 4806 (52 lbs, 17" W X 7" H) and Denon 5910 (42 lbs, same footprint) on the floor set back to left of stand if the remote works. Second idea is separate a/v stand, but length and sight of wiring and remote access behind current leather chair seems a bother. Third option is different stand, but these end up being either much taller (by >14") in order to stack or much, much wider to have three 17" wide objects (AVR - spkr - DVD). Last option is reasonable if one day, we get a 50" or 65" plasma (saw Plateau 56" and 64" model, low profile stands).


TV stand height of 18" seems to be ideal for watching the TV. Do you agree? How would 14" more look?


Which separate a/v stand do you have?


----------



## sonicsnyder

I am about to buy my first HDTV. I can not seem to decide between the Sony 34xbr960 or soon to be released 1080p LCD 37 or 42" TV (Spectre, Westinghouse, or Syntax). It is going in a cabinet so size is not the issue. I am currently using an old 32" JVC T.V. I am concerned that a 34" tube t.v. will like small for non-HDTV programs. My couch is about 8 feet from the T.V. (I've even considered the LCD Projection 42", but I didn't like the dimming when viewing from a superior angle). It has been frustrating to go to stores because the Sony HDTV CRTs never have HDTV, they only play HDTV signal on the flat panels and projection T.V.s


Is this 34xbr960 going to be better PQ than a 1080p LCD?

(I know that blacks will be better, but if I'm in a lit room will there be a difference)

Has anyone seen these side by side?


Can I hook up thhe 34xbr960 to my laptop and use it has monitor like an LCD (via DVI/HDCP, powerbook 17" 1.76ghz)?


Finally, does 16:9 42" look a lot different than 34" 16:9?


Should I get the make sure to get the 960 before they are harder to find?


Thank you in advance for your thoughts.


Eric


----------



## CR_Client




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cireaasirefan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Congratulations on the price match and for the purchase of the TV. I know there's a B&H Photo store in New York but there's none in California, so I can't price match B&H.



That all depends on the store manager. For the most part, stores are given a bit of autonomy on price-matching.


The thing is, nowadays, ordering online is almost as easy and quick as buying locally. Even Best Buy knows this. If you make them understand that you're willing to spend your $1400+ at a competitor, even though it's an online competitor, they're quite likely to match the price. We're not talking about a $50 printer here...


In my case, I'm more than willing to return my TV to the store, in its original box, if they're not willing to make some concessions. The store knows this, and knows how much I spend there, and that makes them more likely to at least listen to me.


You'd be surprised at the things that some Best Buy employees are willing to do when you're talking about spending $1500 at their store.


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> Is this 34xbr960 going to be better PQ than a 1080p LCD?
> 
> (I know that blacks will be better, but if I'm in a lit room will there be a difference)
> 
> Has anyone seen these side by side?
> 
> 
> Can I hook up thhe 34xbr960 to my laptop and use it has monitor like an LCD (via DVI/HDCP, powerbook 17" 1.76ghz)?
> 
> 
> Finally, does 16:9 42" look a lot different than 34" 16:9?



yes the XBR will have much better picture than any LCD, especially those which you are considering


those LCDs have poor quality scalers, making SD, non HD content, look bad; they are aweful at color representation, washed out, and have very poor viewing angles


not to mention poor contrast ratios on those cheaper LCDs


if you are considering spending 1900 on a XBR (MRSP), why not consider a Panel from Sharp, Sony, Hitachi?

these will make great video displays and PC monitors


you can connect your PC to the XBR960 via DVI to HDMI but the XBR960 does not display a high progressive scan resolution, they will only display 480p, progressively, otherwise 720p and 1080i inputs are scaled to 1080i


so it would depend on your usage on how much you would benefit from this


if for videos, games, other media, you will be fine, for web surfing or typing text docs you will not be very happy


----------



## Nonnie

I fired up my new 34XBR960 today, and I am really disappointed. Out of the box it has very poor geometry and a few areas with pretty bad misconvergence. I think the geometry can be straightened out quite a bit in the service menu, but the horizontal scan lines at the top and bottom have a nasty bow at the ends. I know this would require a service call. Take a look at the pictures below.


I'm taking it back tomorrow, but I wanted to get some expert opinions. What do you guys think, this can't be the norm for this high end crt.


----------



## TCB

CR_Client,

I agree with your whole post and have found this true in my experience. As most people know, I was able to get the 960N for $1199. A consumer armed with lots of information, Cash, patience, willingness to go elsewhere, and loads of confidence can really make out in this new economy.


MSRP? I tinkle on your MSRP. MAP? I poop on your MAP (Minimum Advertised Price)!


Okay, I'll go away now.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CR_Client* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That all depends on the store manager. For the most part, stores are given a bit of autonomy on price-matching.
> 
> 
> The thing is, nowadays, ordering online is almost as easy and quick as buying locally. Even Best Buy knows this. If you make them understand that you're willing to spend your $1400+ at a competitor, even though it's an online competitor, they're quite likely to match the price. We're not talking about a $50 printer here...
> 
> 
> In my case, I'm more than willing to return my TV to the store, in its original box, if they're not willing to make some concessions. The store knows this, and knows how much I spend there, and that makes them more likely to at least listen to me.
> 
> 
> You'd be surprised at the things that some Best Buy employees are willing to do when you're talking about spending $1500 at their store.


----------



## archon333

Where did you get the 960 for $1200?


----------



## PeteH579




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nonnie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I fired up my new 34XBR960 today, and I am really disappointed. Out of the box it has very poor geometry and a few areas with pretty bad misconvergence. I think the geometry can be straightened out quite a bit in the service menu, but the horizontal scan lines at the top and bottom have a nasty bow at the ends. I know this would require a service call. Take a look at the pictures below.
> 
> 
> I'm taking it back tomorrow, but I wanted to get some expert opinions. What do you guys think, this can't be the norm for this high end crt.



How did you produce the first crosshatch jpg?


My set produces not quite as bad horizontal bow on the left as shown in the second

jpg. I don't see any picture problems but I now see that bow when hitting memory

stick. Hmmm looks like another flaw to workout.


----------



## Nonnie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PeteH579* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How did you produce the first crosshatch jpg?



It's an NTSC pattern generator.


The bowing is really noticeable on letterbox content. The top letterbox takes a noticeable dip on the left and the bottom letterbox take a curve up on the right.


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> It's an NTSC pattern generator.



WOW, and your bowing is definitely worse than my XS955


I used my PC at 1080i to do crosshatch patterns, and mine is not perfect, but enough to bother me


----------



## sonicsnyder




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kny3twalker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> yes the XBR will have much better picture than any LCD, especially those which you are considering
> 
> 
> those LCDs have poor quality scalers, making SD, non HD content, look bad; they are aweful at color representation, washed out, and have very poor viewing angles
> 
> 
> not to mention poor contrast ratios on those cheaper LCDs
> 
> 
> if you are considering spending 1900 on a XBR (MRSP), why not consider a Panel from Sharp, Sony, Hitachi?
> 
> these will make great video displays and PC monitors
> 
> 
> you can connect your PC to the XBR960 via DVI to HDMI but the XBR960 does not display a high progressive scan resolution, they will only display 480p, progressively, otherwise 720p and 1080i inputs are scaled to 1080i
> 
> 
> so it would depend on your usage on how much you would benefit from this
> 
> 
> if for videos, games, other media, you will be fine, for web surfing or typing text docs you will not be very happy




The specs on the sceptre, westinghouse seem pretty good, (CNET gave the westinghouse 37" a fair review, commenting that the blacks were not as good but otherwise it was a positive review). And the price is in line with xbr vs. Sony/Sharp which is near $3000.00.


I will rarely use this for computer, and do not really need to. I thought it would be good for video editing vs. my smaller 17" screen.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Joseph,
> 
> 
> Just tried your idea on top of TV set. Looks awkward and is unstable -- it is not a symmetrical spkr; 19 lbs; mahagony finish looks weird; etc
> 
> 
> Ctr spkr is 17" W X 12" H X 11" D and seems to fit in SU34XB3 stand with Option #2 shelf, leaving 3 3/8" below that for STB/DVR and/or VCR side by side.
> 
> 
> I guess we'll consider the Denon 4806 (52 lbs, 17" W X 7" H) and Denon 5910 (42 lbs, same footprint) on the floor set back to left of stand if the remote works. Second idea is separate a/v stand, but length and sight of wiring and remote access behind current leather chair seems a bother. Third option is different stand, but these end up being either much taller (by >14") in order to stack or much, much wider to have three 17" wide objects (AVR - spkr - DVD). Last option is reasonable if one day, we get a 50" or 65" plasma (saw Plateau 56" and 64" model, low profile stands).
> 
> 
> TV stand height of 18" seems to be ideal for watching the TV. Do you agree? How would 14" more look?
> 
> 
> Which separate a/v stand do you have?



Hi Norman,


Sorry the center speaker doesn't look right on top of the Sony.


Viewing the 960 from our sofa our line of vision is a little more than half way up the screen which is fine for us. The matching stand does look nice but if your options are limited it might not be practical.


We have an audio rack to the left of the set but it was purchased almost 20 years ago so it's no longer available but it's a three shelf unit with a solid top. We're able to place the turntable on top, a cd 5 disc player on one shelf, a Dennon AVR 2600 on another and the third a Yamaha RXV 1000 (the Yamaha has a separate output for the rear center speaker (6.1) and the Dennon is used to power it). Since the shelves on these units are adjustable you should have no problem with either Dennon (they generate a lot of heat, right?).


We also were concerned how wires would look, however, we were able to place the rack an inch or so behind the 960 due to the contour of the set (wider in the front than the back) so one cannot really see wires going across from the TV. The Sony stand does have a slot to place wires so cables from DVD, VCR and cable box can be hidden (just be sure to leave some slack for these wires otherwise they will be pulled off the video equipment when moving it).


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> The specs on the sceptre, westinghouse seem pretty good, (CNET gave the westinghouse 37" a fair review, commenting that the blacks were not as good but otherwise it was a positive review).



huh thats funny sound and vision found problems with the HD scaler in the Westinghouse, causing the need for an external scaler


pretty poor sounding electronics IMO



> Quote:
> I did uncover a few annoying bugs while using the Westinghouse, including the set's tendency to go dark briefly when I switched between 1080i- and 720p-format HDTV channels going from Discovery-HD to ESPN-HD, for example. The workaround was to set my cable box to upconvert all programs to 1080i format, which is the best match for the set's native resolution anyway.


 http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/art...&page_number=3 


bad points


Weak blacks and limited shadow detail.

Flimsy remote control.

Several minor operational quirks.


good points


Crisp HDTV and DVD pictures.

Vivid, natural color right out of the box.

DVI and VGA inputs accept 1080p signals.

Great price for a 1080p HDTV.


note that was several operational quirks


----------



## [email protected]

Thanks, Joeseph. I think I need to get my hands on this stand and work things out.


I can't imagine a 2 mo. back order. I must have been one of the first to order this TV (...960N) and it's stand directly from Sony!!! Last November. WOW.


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

Ok few problems with TV since ive gotten it, ive noticed a slight curve on the outer edge line of the TV towards the top on both the left and right side. Not too much too bother me, Every setting is the way it was when i got it, except its in Pro mode, which is way way way way way too dark for anything, i tried bringing brightness up to 37-45 and it still didnt do me any good so i brought it back to 31 until im done with initial 100 hours which i am almost done with... been watching alot of cartoons, and sometimes ( spongebob, futurama ) in certain scenese you can see alot of horizontal lines... Sometimes when things move, sometimes not at all sometimes.. its just there, sometimes on the eyes when the characters blink, sometimes the abckgroud of a scene, sometimes the whole scene.. and its driving me nuts.... i dont know how to tell if theres anything wrong with my TV... in any form.. so what you guys let me know is law


----------



## PeteH579




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *irhxcbcziuzxs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok few problems with TV since ive gotten it, ive noticed a slight curve on the outer edge line of the TV towards the top on both the left and right side. Not too much too bother me, Every setting is the way it was when i got it, except its in Pro mode, which is way way way way way too dark for anything, i tried bringing brightness up to 37-45 and it still didnt do me any good so i brought it back to 31 until im done with initial 100 hours which i am almost done with... been watching alot of cartoons, and sometimes ( spongebob, futurama ) in certain scenese you can see alot of horizontal lines... Sometimes when things move, sometimes not at all sometimes.. its just there, sometimes on the eyes when the characters blink, sometimes the abckgroud of a scene, sometimes the whole scene.. and its driving me nuts.... i dont know how to tell if theres anything wrong with my TV... in any form.. so what you guys let me know is law



No expert here but.


The other day I was watching cable news in SD and the news item included a

photograph such as a security camera shot or an amateur photo like an old

family photo. Only the photo was heavily lined and almost indecipherable.

I had never seen this on my SD TV. I'm guessing that any poor quality image

becomes much worse on this TV. I've also seen lining on satelite channels from

directv that are overcompressed because directv only transmits the better quality

images on the most watched or premium channels.

I'm very happy with HDTV channels.


----------



## cawgijoe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nonnie* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I fired up my new 34XBR960 today, and I am really disappointed. Out of the box it has very poor geometry and a few areas with pretty bad misconvergence. I think the geometry can be straightened out quite a bit in the service menu, but the horizontal scan lines at the top and bottom have a nasty bow at the ends. I know this would require a service call. Take a look at the pictures below.
> 
> 
> I'm taking it back tomorrow, but I wanted to get some expert opinions. What do you guys think, this can't be the norm for this high end crt.



When I first got my 34XBR800. I had some purity problems (green blob) and asked Sony to fix it under warranty. In the process of doing this, the tech noticed convergence and bowing problems when he ran tests in the service menu. He was able to fix the set so that the lines were very straight with just a hint of bowing at the very end. I was very happy.


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> watching alot of cartoons, and sometimes ( spongebob, futurama ) in certain scenese you can see alot of horizontal lines... Sometimes when things move, sometimes not at all sometimes.. its just there, sometimes on the eyes when the characters blink, sometimes the abckgroud of a scene, sometimes the whole scene.. and its driving me nuts.... i dont know how to tell if theres anything wrong with my TV... in any form.. so what you guys let me know is law



sounds like you maybe using progressive mode with VM enabled, probably medium or high


try interlaced and disable or choose low VM


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kny3twalker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> sounds like you maybe using progressive mode with VM enabled, probably medium or high
> 
> 
> try interlaced and disable or choose low VM



i believe its on interlaced, i dont know what VM is


----------



## kny3twalker

its in the user menu, you will see it


its called specifically clear edge VM


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

its what ever factory had it as


----------



## youth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *irhxcbcziuzxs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> been watching alot of cartoons, and sometimes ( spongebob, futurama ) in certain scenese you can see alot of horizontal lines... Sometimes when things move, sometimes not at all sometimes.. its just there, sometimes on the eyes when the characters blink, sometimes the abckgroud of a scene, sometimes the whole scene.. and its driving me nuts.... i dont know how to tell if theres anything wrong with my TV... in any form.. so what you guys let me know is law



I see this with the animation on FOX HD & sometimes on my anime DVD's usually during fast motion. Is this what they consider interlacing artifacts? Is the OTA HD doing that because the TV has to upconvert FOX's 720p to 1080i? Not sure why I would have those issues with DVD's since I'm using one of those upconverting Faroudja chipset players(Panasonic S77 set to 1080i).


g'day

youth


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *youth* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I see this with the animation on FOX HD & sometimes on my anime DVD's usually during fast motion. Is this what they consider interlacing artifacts? Is the OTA HD doing that because the TV has to upconvert FOX's 720p to 1080i? Not sure why I would have those issues with DVD's since I'm using one of those upconverting Faroudja chipset players(Panasonic S77 set to 1080i).
> 
> 
> g'day
> 
> youth



yea, usually during fast motions, but sometimes not


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *irhxcbcziuzxs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> its what ever factory had it as



Doesn't mean you're not allowed to make your own adjustments, to compensate for personal taste or screwups at the factory.


This set's claim to fame really is on the HD side, although with a little adjustment even the SD display can be considered excellent. But in general, adding "sharpness" of any kind (either called "sharpness", or "edge enhancement", etc.) is simply ADDING noise to the original picture content sent out by the broadcasters. And this applies generally to both HD and SD content, although it is PARTICULARLY NOTICEABLE with HD content.


In other words, the truly "proper" way to set the SHARPNESS control on this set for HD inputs is MIN (i.e. "off", or as close to off as the set allows). If you're used to seeing edge enhancement from a setting of 31, it will at first seem "soft" to look at a picture with sharpness set to MIN. But it won't take long to realize that the picture is now actually clean and pristine and that you like its very realistic appearance, and when you try and go back to 31 you simply can't stand it.


Ok, back to your concern. Horizontal lines, especially with SD off-the-air broadcast content, are particularly visible with "interlaced" content displays... i.e. 480i. That's why the picture from progressive DVD players look so much better than the same DVD played on an old interlaced-only DVD player. And that's why the DRC mode capability of the XBR960 is so worthwhile.


If you push the "DRC MODE" button on the remote, I'd suggest you try the PROGRESSIVE (rather than INTERLACED, which is the factory default) option. This will allow the XBR960 to convert interlaced SD into progressive, much the way a progressive DVD player operates. This should certainly change the visible appearance of what's on the screen and should definitely help to reduce the appearance of the horizontal scan lines which are so obvious on 480i SD broadcast content.


This "progressive" DRC setting really helps with better quality SD content, say from satellite (on channels that aren't horribly re-compressed) or digital cable. With lousy off-air content there's not too much that can be done. Remember, using the "progressive" mode the set is trying to eliminate those lines, just like you're asking for in your post.


Finally, you need to be willing to make adjustments to the "factory" settings... both in the (a) user menu for sure, and (b) service menu very likely. All owners of this set should absolutely set the Video Mode (in user menu) to PRO for all inputs (both SD and HD), to allow for individual adjustments and settings for all inputs (both SD and HD) and to eliminate most of the pre-set factory bias delivered by Sony.


I think everyone would also agree that you should set Clear Edge VM (in the user menu, at the bottom of the Video settings) to OFF for all inputs. Most users also set Advanced Video -> Color Axis -> MONITOR for all inputs. I believe everyone would agree that Sharpness=MIN is the correct setting for all HD inputs, although something in the 20-25 range might be appropriate for SD input.


Now... once you begin your adjustments with these MAJOR changes (and you haven't even started with user menu color, brightness, sharpness, contrast, and much deeper service menu tweaks including overscan/size/position), you will notice a STRIKING difference in picture from the way the thing looked out of the factory when you first turned it on, especially if you haven't adjusted hardly anything. It will likely look darker, less red, perhaps less colorful, etc. That's exactly how it SHOULD look... when you begin, un-biased. You're now free to adjust things (hopefully using some kind of calibration DVD or other JPG or image generator) to get all of the video characteristics precisely where you want them, to give you maximum satisfaction.


And adjustments on every input are different... so don't expect one set of values to work for every input. That's what PRO is for... to let you adjust each input separately, starting from a base which is essentially void of silly factory preset biases for "VIVID", etc.


So, try DRC mode of "progressive" and see if that helps make your horizontal line complaint reduce. And begin to explore PRO mode and all the rest.


----------



## mr2828

If you have the DRC in progressive or cinemotion mode you will sometimes get the kinds of artifacts you mention during movement/screen changes. In those cases you need to press the DRC mode button your remote to go back to interlaced mode.


----------



## JohnGZ28

Great post DSperber!


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

checked my settings


they are PRO

Pic - 31

Brightness - 31 (ive brought this up pretty damn high and its still too dark, it was really hard to watch the X-files, even at 42 (wont bring it higher until initial 100 hours is done)

Color - 31

Hue - 0

Sharpness - Minimum (Cant tell a difference with this except that SD might look a little worse now, nothing is airing in HD right now, so i cant test it with that)

Color Temp - Neutral

ClearEdge VM - Off


havent touched advanced video yet



The Lines i mention arent in SD broadcasting, they are from DVD...

Im getting these watching Sponebob DVD season 1, which is 480p, and Futurama Season 1, which is i dont know what... so that might make a difference?


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> Im getting these watching Sponebob DVD season 1, which is 480p, and Futurama Season 1, which is i dont know what... so that might make a difference?



all DVDs are 480i, every last one of them


and the reason these cartoons do not look as good as film based DVDs is because of the mastering of the DVD


are you watching the DVDs in normal mode?, since they are 4:3


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

my tv tells me they are playing in 480p, and i have it set to full


----------



## kny3twalker

well thats cause you set your DVD player to output progressive scan 480p (or it was most likely that way by default)


also the Sony only displays the source of the resolution not the resolution being displayed(if you did not know)

*and all DVDs are 480i*


turn off progressive scan on your DVD player, and then your TV will say 480i


but it is a setting in the menu, that you would have to change


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

XBOX360 = dvd player


----------



## kny3twalker

well it can output 480p for DVDs as well as 480i


and the xbox360 is poor option for a DVD player, that maybe part of your problem


also if you setup the xbox360 for DVDs then games will be too dark, and if you setup the xbox360 for games, DVDs will be washed out


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

but whats going to get rid of the lines.. thats what i want to know..


----------



## kny3twalker

get an upscaling DVD player, the high scan rate (1080i) will prevent any noticable scan lines unlike with 480p


I see them as well with 480p but only when I sit really close or view a still image


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

its only on like fast moving objects , but really noticable


----------



## Anie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *digimiX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i just purchased a KD-34XBR960. i'm not seeing the full picture on my directv box. i believe this is overscan, right? can i fix this? it's looks like 5% or so. i know how to access the service menu. all network logos are getting cut off!! argh!! thanks in advance.



As, I think, Pete said, it SOUNDS as if you're inadvertently in ZOOM

mode rather than in Full. What you see will also depend on your

DVD player.


What settings allow you to see top and bottom not chopped off?


By the way, I bought a Sony NH70S upscaling DVD player. My Panasonic

DVD recorder DMR-E80H in player mode lost top/bottom with ZOOM and

has horizontal scan marks in that mode while having minor but visible

distortion at the edges in wide-zoom mode. Using the Sony, I can

view the full 1080i picture-simulation without distortion and without

the really-evident scan lines that I seen when playing back with the

Panasonic.


With Sony NH70S used with SONY XBR960N, the vertical-expand

helps to 'right' wide pics if I choose to see standard 480 playback

filling the screen.


At any rate, the NH70S plays any DVD-R, so I'm sold on using that as

main player and saving the old Panasonic for recording and

initial playback. While the XBR960N does its own upscaling, the

horizontal scan lines necessary (apparently) when playing back

standard cable recorded or DVD-R compatible in full screen don't look

as good as with the Sony upscaling player.


But the HD stuff is still amazing me no end.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *digimiX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i just purchased a KD-34XBR960. i'm not seeing the full picture on my directv box. i believe this is overscan, right? can i fix this? it's looks like 5% or so. i know how to access the service menu. all network logos are getting cut off!! argh!! thanks in advance.



Look here to learn how to adjust overscan .


Follow the links in this post (and the subsequent links, to other posts and threads) for the specific instructions. The service menu details are quite explicit.


You'll need a proper test pattern (zip/JPG attached to that first link above, or from a calibration DVD) and a way to get that test pattern displayed on your set.


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> its only on like fast moving objects , but really noticable



I understand and my answer is still the same, use an upscaling player


----------



## iamhives

My local electronics store has their display 34XBR960 on sale. Sticker price is $1400 and first sales guy I spoke to said he would give 15% off. I also have a 10% coupon in my email and 'cos I wasn't 100% sure I wanted it I didn't negotiate further. Unit looks in basically OK condition although the remote looks to be an old and different model from the one I got with my other new XBR960. What do you think would be a fair price for this unit? Also, I plan on checking the manufacture date - are there any build dates to be wary of where QC was a problem?


----------



## TCB

I think $1000 is fair price for a display unit. I'd buy the extended warranty (or just stick with the two year XBR warranty, I guess).


----------



## vader999

I saw this set at two Best Buys. They appear to be getting ready to clearance, so I assume this has been discontinued? They had them marked down to $1699.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vader999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I saw this set at two Best Buys. They appear to be getting ready to clearance, so I assume this has been discontinued? They had them marked down to $1699.



Don't assume.


----------



## snapperhead

Can someone tell me how to access the drc mode and drc pallette? They are greyed out when I go to them on my menu. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks.


----------



## vader999

CC has pulled it; most of the other net electronics retailers are out of stock, and it is on discount at B & M stores.


Sonystyle, while still having it in their list, will no longer allow you tor order it.


Alas, the end is nigh.


----------



## Whatnow

Hello all.


Just bought this TV after some research and reading the posts here. Picked it up yesterday and hooked it up right away. I just love the HD picture.


I'm having a problem with the controller though. Does anyone know how to program it for the cable box? I can't seem to get it to work.


For anyone looking for a good price, I paid $1349 at Video Oniy.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *snapperhead* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can someone tell me how to access the drc mode and drc pallette? They are greyed out when I go to them on my menu. What am I doing wrong?



They're only active and relevant for your SD inputs (INPUT1, 2, 3) and not for your HD inputs. That's why they're grayed out for INPUT4, 5, 6, 7 and iLink.


Your SD inputs are "interlaced" by default, and the DRC function is an attempt to convert that to "progressive" or something better than interlaced, through electronic enhancement.


The HD inputs are not eligible for this particular type of electronic enhancement.


----------



## snapperhead




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> They're only active and relevant for your SD inputs (INPUT1, 2, 3) and not for your HD inputs. That's why they're grayed out for INPUT4, 5, 6, 7 and iLink.
> 
> 
> Your SD inputs are "interlaced" by default, and the DRC function is an attempt to convert that to "progressive" or something better than interlaced, through electronic enhancement.
> 
> 
> The HD inputs are not eligible for this particular type of electronic enhancement.





Thanks, DSperber. I just got the t.v. today and I thought maybe there was a problem.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vader999* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> CC has pulled it; most of the other net electronics retailers are out of stock, and it is on discount at B & M stores.
> 
> 
> Sonystyle, while still having it in their list, will no longer allow you tor order it.
> 
> 
> Alas, the end is nigh.



Other sets might have bigger pictures, weigh less, be as skinny as Olive Oil and be hung on walls but no set beats the 960's quality and craftmanship.


We will be enjoying our 960's for years when, at most, the other technologies catch up but will not exceed it's picture quality. Maybe that's why Sony added the letter "N" after 960 - not-available.


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kny3twalker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I understand and my answer is still the same, use an upscaling player



actually i observed it last night, it just happens in wierd random spots, not during fast moving objects...

I think i have noticed this in video games as well... on my ps2 through component...


also, i seemed to notice some ghosting yesterday while watching the jim gaffigan dvd...


----------



## PeteH579




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *snapperhead* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks, DSperber. I just got the t.v. today and I thought maybe there was a problem.


*DSperber*

How many 960's did you save??


How many lost souls ( like me ) did you guide?


Thanks for your experiance and knowledge.


This is why I'm always seeking kknowledge here.


Thank you again.


----------



## gigaguy

Was shocked to see the current price of the 960 at the Sony Outlet near me. a steal! If I had room for another 960 I'd get one. Unbelieveable clearing out price.

over $1000 off retail. damm. no one wants tubes, they are giving these away!

(It's lower than the model #!)


----------



## vader999

Where are you located Gigaguy? Was it really under $960? Was it refurbished?


----------



## MSZ 007

Well I finally took the plunge. Bought the 960N for 1900 with a free stand at a local tv store. I'm a long time reader but never post. So far I like what I've seen. Great TV. Can't wait for the superbowl in HD.


----------



## kheiden

My local Best Buy store has a floor model KD-34XBR960 for $1199 and I might buy it today.


I didn't know it upscales everything to 1080i (which seems a bad idea to me). If a signal comes in at 720p wouldn't you want to see it that way? This is the only area I've read on here that kinda scares me because until today I thought this was a 720p native and capable CRT.


I'm also concerned about all the posts with SD DirecTV not looking good. I am buying this to replace a 15 yr. old 27" XBR that has terrific SD quality but lack the inputs and aspect ratio I'm loning for in the 960.


Overall are most of you really happy with this set? Did any of you have the same concerns about 720p programming, and if so were they quickly put to rest by a killer 1080i upconversion capability of this set?


Thanks in advance as always for your feedback.


----------



## TCB

kheiden,

I've been quite pleased with the way SD looks on my XBR960N. Granted, I have cable not Direct TV. One of my initial concerns was how this tv would handle SD material. In the stores, it looks like crap. I believe now that that was primarily because of the distributed feed (i.e. dilluted signal).


I would go pick up the floor model, but I would tell them that you are willing to pay $1000 and not a penny more. There are people here (myself included) who got a brand new one for $1199. I'd be happy to send you my receipt if it would help or talk with Swankerme (he used his receipt to get it for $1119).


----------



## gigaguy

vader -

The 960's at Sony Outlet were refurbished, but come with the standard 2 year warranty. There are about 12 Outlet stores in US. most on east and west costs, one in TX where I am. take 100 from your logon.


----------



## Ladd

Yesterday I had the "TV won't power up and the red light blinks continuously" issue for the first time. Visions of no TV for Super Bowl flashed before my eyes.


I remembered from reading this discussion thread that unplugging the set from AC power for a few minutes will reset the system; I did so for 10 minutes and the set then started up normally.


What I don't remember from reading here is if this issue is just one of those things that occasionally happen or if it is a warning sign of possible issues to come.


----------



## JOENAMCO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yesterday I had the "TV won't power up and the red light blinks continuously" issue for the first time. Visions of no TV for Super Bowl flashed before my eyes.
> 
> 
> I remembered from reading this discussion thread that unplugging the set from AC power for a few minutes will reset the system; I did so for 10 minutes and the set then started up normally.
> 
> 
> What I don't remember from reading here is if this issue is just one of those things that occasionally happen or if it is a warning sign of possible issues to come.



I had this happen two times and each time that it happen was when I turned off the Moto DVR and the TV was in HDMI mode, then turned off the TV and when I turned it back on next day I had to remove the AC plug to get it to work, I have tried it a couple of times again and has not happen again. (Can't try it anymore got rid of the DVR)


----------



## kodaker

I've had my 960 for a year now and it has only happened to me once.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JOENAMCO* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had this happen two times and each time that it happen was when I turned off the Moto DVR and the TV was in HDMI mode



You've provided an interesting clue -- just a few days ago I installed a Motorola 6412 Phase III HD DVR (via component, because evidently the 6412 has a 5.1 audio playback issue when connected via HDMI).


However I don't usually power down the 6412 because that initiates another "feature" whereby when the DVR wakes up to do a timed recording, it goes into "mute" mode and can't be un-muted without waiting for the recording to finish or pulling the AC plug.


Still, my first episode of "blinking red light" happening a few days after connecting the Motorola DVR seems more than a little coincidental.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yesterday I had the "TV won't power up and the red light blinks continuously" issue for the first time. Visions of no TV for Super Bowl flashed before my eyes.
> 
> 
> I remembered from reading this discussion thread that unplugging the set from AC power for a few minutes will reset the system; I did so for 10 minutes and the set then started up normally.
> 
> 
> What I don't remember from reading here is if this issue is just one of those things that occasionally happen or if it is a warning sign of possible issues to come.



Don't get worried - this happened to us a few weeks after we got our 960 in early August and it's happened to others on this post as well.


A Sony representative told me the 960 operates like a computer and, like computers when they crash, the 960 needs to be unplugged for a few minutes. Hasn't occured since.


Sony also told me the 960 should be plugged directly into the wall outlet, not through a surge protector. There was a lot of discussion about this point when I posted what I was told last summer. It seems the 960 needs a tremendous amount of power when turned on to allow for degaussing and surge protectors can limit the initial amount of power required to do this properly. We keep it plugged directly into the wall while others have used line conditioners.


----------



## snatta

Ladd,


I had a problem with the 6412 muting too. I actually had my box replaced, and figured it out with the Comcast tech who installed the new box. I was using my TV remote to adjust volume and mute. All you have to do is press the mute button on the Comcast remote and the sound comes back. I didn't even know the mute was on, because on my 4:3 SDTV the white mute letters are 99% cut off on the top of the screen. I used to come home from work at night and turn on the TV during a recording, and couldn't figure out why I couldn't get sound so I could watch a live program or another DVR recording. I waited until the recording was done to watch that TV set. Now I have no muting problems at all, and always keep the power off on the 6412 when I am not home or sleeping.


----------



## En Sabur Nur




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Other sets might have bigger pictures, weigh less, be as skinny as Olive Oil and be hung on walls but no set beats the 960's quality and craftmanship.
> 
> 
> We will be enjoying our 960's for years when, at most, the other technologies catch up but will not exceed it's picture quality. Maybe that's why Sony added the letter "N" after 960 - not-available.



Have you (or anyone) who has the XBR960 seen the KDS-R50XBR1 to compare the picture quality to? With all of the positive reviews that set is now receiving, it sounds like Sony has achieved a big screen XBR CRT! If that is the case, I'll make plans to purchase one of those instead because it doesn't look like the 960 will be available when I'm ready to buy.


Nevermind, I just saw QofBanditZ's statement from an old thread that answered my question concerning the KDS-R50XBR1.


----------



## Jon S

It seems to be a normal issue with the 960s. I have done it a number of times and the issue is listed on sony's faq.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> However I don't usually power down the 6412 because that initiates another "feature" whereby when the DVR wakes up to do a timed recording, it goes into "mute" mode and can't be un-muted without waiting for the recording to finish or pulling the AC plug.



Just in case you weren't aware that some unassigned button on the remote can be programmed (by you) to function as a "MUTE/UN-MUTE" toggle, for getting yourself out of this situation or perhaps just because you want to temporarily turn the sound off (out of the 6412) when you answer the phone and want to keep watching something, etc., it CAN be done.


In the same way, you can also program some unassigned button on the remote to serve as "instant 30-second skip forward". There already are two pre-programmed "instant 15-second skip backward" buttons on the remote: (1) documented counterclockwise curlicue (to the left of MyDVR button), and (2) undocumented and physically more convenient page-down arrow button (southeast of the red "C" button, used for day advance).


Anyway, here are the instructions for programming MUTE/UN-MUTE and 30-second skip .


If you already knew this, but for some reason had previously decided not to implement these one or two features, pardon my intrusion. Otherwise, having MUTE/UN-MUTE available allows you to power off the 6412 when not in use and not fret about timer recordings bringing it up in MUTE state. I prefer mine off when not in use, to reduce potential hard drive and head wear. Also, having the "instant 30-second skip forward" is absolutely invaluable for passing through 3-5 minute commercial pods with a few clicks of the newly programmed button (FAV, in my case), followed up usually with one or two clicks of the page-down button to then move backwards 15 seconds per click to recover from the usual "overshoot".


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *snatta* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had a problem with the 6412 muting too ... All you have to do is press the mute button on the Comcast remote and the sound comes back.



Thanks for the reply. The ability to unmute the sound (and for that matter, if the problem occurs in the first place) is entirely dependent on the firmware and wethor or not one has a Comcast box with a Comcast remote.


Unfortunately for me, the current firmware for 6412s distributed by Adelphia in Frederick MD (v12.20) still have the issue and as I do not have a Comcast-issued remote, the mute button on the Adelphia-supplied one doesn't work when the box goes into a mute condition when the box wakes up to do a timed recording.


There are instructions to be found on the internet for programming a Comcast remote to become more functional in this situation, but the Adelphia remote is missing keys required to do the programming.


So, for the moment, the only way to not get stuck in this position is to simply never power down the front display. Could be worse, I suppose.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just in case you weren't aware that some unassigned button on the remote can be programmed (by you) to function as a "MUTE/UN-MUTE" toggle



Thanks for the detailed explanation and answers.


I've read about programming the remote that comes with Comcast-supplied 6412 boxes; unfortunately the remote that comes with the 6412 offered by Adelphia in Frederick MD is different and doesn't have one or more keys listed as being used for the programming commands. It is certainly possible that the needed keys might be on the remote (but named something else entirely) but I have yet to figure out what they might be.



> Quote:
> I prefer mine [powered] off when not in use, to reduce potential hard drive and head wear.



It's my understanding that all that happens when you hit the "power" button is that the front panel lights turn off -- the hard drive spins 24/7.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It's my understanding that all that happens when you hit the "power" button is that the front panel lights turn off -- the hard drive spins 24/7.



That might be. But I know that when the power is on I hear "clicking", reflecting the fact that 30 minutes worth of data from the two tuners is actually being buffered and therefore recorded. When the box is powered off there is no clicking. The drive might still be spinning, but there is no writing to disk and related mechanical consequence.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

This was our first Superbowl on HD and while the picture was great, we don't think the picture quality was more "super" than any other broadcast. It would have been better had the game been played in an outdoor arena with early evening twilight fading into night.


----------



## zachwhite0

Based on Sony's history anyone care to make a guess as to when they will discontinue this tv and produce a newer one?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zachwhite0* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Based on Sony's history anyone care to make a guess as to when they will discontinue this tv and produce a newer one?



Well, they just put out the N, and despite the FUD and speculation/rumors that people like Walt Chan/cireaasirefan/letterstoher/koratendkiworld/U2Psycho (all one person) try to plant... NO ONE KNOWS when Sony is going to pull out entirely.


I'd say at least another good year. There's still plenty of easy money to be made in the tube market, even if Sony isn't going to bother with any further advancements or innovations, like the XBR970 indicated.


I agree with whoever said: They could have called that the XBR420 or something like that...


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *irhxcbcziuzxs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> checked my settings
> 
> 
> they are PRO
> 
> Pic - 31
> 
> Brightness - 31 (ive brought this up pretty damn high and its still too dark, it was really hard to watch the X-files, even at 42 (wont bring it higher until initial 100 hours is done)
> 
> Color - 31
> 
> Hue - 0
> 
> Sharpness - Minimum (Cant tell a difference with this except that SD might look a little worse now, nothing is airing in HD right now, so i cant test it with that)
> 
> Color Temp - Neutral
> 
> ClearEdge VM - Off
> 
> 
> havent touched advanced video yet
> 
> 
> 
> The Lines i mention arent in SD broadcasting, they are from DVD...
> 
> Im getting these watching Sponebob DVD season 1, which is 480p, and Futurama Season 1, which is i dont know what... so that might make a difference?


----------



## Q of BanditZ

^^ Try these (see bolded) :



> Quote:
> checked my settings
> 
> 
> they are PRO
> 
> Pic - 31 *go to 35*
> 
> Brightness - 31 (ive brought this up pretty damn high and its still too dark, it was really hard to watch the X-files, even at 42 (wont bring it higher until initial 100 hours is done) *45 ish tops 31 is WAY too dark.*
> 
> 
> Color - 31 *Probably good enough. Some people like it at 33. YMMV.*
> 
> 
> Hue - 0
> 
> Sharpness - Minimum (Cant tell a difference with this except that SD might look a little worse now, nothing is airing in HD right now, so i cant test it with that)
> 
> 
> Color Temp - Neutral *Experiment between this and Warm*
> 
> ClearEdge VM - Off
> 
> 
> havent touched advanced video yet



Advanced Video: Set to Monitor at all times. Set to CineMotion and leave that as well. You'll get a nice 3:2 pulldown on film based material.




Obviously, if you ever get this ISF calibrated, you'll never have to bother with any of this ever again.


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ^^ Try these (see bolded) :
> 
> 
> 
> Advanced Video: Set to Monitor at all times. Set to CineMotion and leave that as well. You'll get a nice 3:2 pulldown on film based material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Obviously, if you ever get this ISF calibrated, you'll never have to bother with any of this ever again.



I like the accent of the reds though, maybe its cause im used to seeing it like that, what is CineMotion


so .. Pic to 35 (why, sorry.. i like to know why before i go and change something)


ive had brightness to 45 its still too dark for x-files or some gaming.

i cant decide if i want it neutral or warm...


Yes i have looked into ISF callibration and there is no place near me that does it..


and im still struggling with some geometry problems or somethign liek that, when watchign an HDTV channel and its not doing hdtv, the left bar is bigger than the right bar width wise, and theres some curving..


----------



## Green Jello




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zachwhite0* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Based on Sony's history anyone care to make a guess as to when they will discontinue this tv and produce a newer one?



This is the question I need to know as well.


I'm going to buy this set (or it's replacement) in the upcomming months.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> I like the accent of the reds though, maybe its cause im used to seeing it like that, what is CineMotion



Basically it does proper 3:2 pull down and some other nice things for your picture. You're taking full advantage of the TV's scaling features, etc.



> Quote:
> so .. Pic to 35 (why, sorry.. i like to know why before i go and change something)
> 
> 
> ive had brightness to 45 its still too dark for x-files or some gaming.
> 
> i cant decide if i want it neutral or warm...



This is why. If you turn picture up just a little bit, to about 35, you'll find that your brightness level will probably work out. These two settings go hand in hand.



> Quote:
> Yes i have looked into ISF callibration and there is no place near me that does it..



Check these?:
http://www.imagingscience.com/isf-trained.cfm 
http://www.milori.com/community/calibrator/ 
http://www.hdtvbychadb.com/ (My guy. I don't know if he's near your area or not.)
www.lionav.com 


If all these fail you, simply post a request thread here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=139 



> Quote:
> and im still struggling with some geometry problems or somethign liek that, when watchign an HDTV channel and its not doing hdtv, the left bar is bigger than the right bar width wise, and theres some curving..



An ISF man can fix that in a jiffy, otherwise, if you're feeling adventerous, you can always hit Ken Tech's service thread. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=531494 





> Quote:
> and to requote myself on seeing lines on dvd's... it was really bad on the last episode of spongebob i watched, i paused it where it was really bad, after rewinding it and trying to catch it cause its in the same place everytime... but i had no way to take a pic then... but now im noticing it on SD broadcasting that arent cartoons... and ghosting with black and white images >_


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

Interiors & More Grand Rapids, MI Less than five miles away


i dont think im going to trust a place with that name... heh.. all the places around me are really shady type places


----------



## kheiden

I went to Best Buy last weekend to finally take the plunge...but I ended up not purchasing the 960 because it ended up still costing me too much for everything I wanted. I tried the "$1000 not a penny more" with Best Buy and they weren't taking it. They said $1199 was below their employee cost so no further discounts were available on this floor model.


Second, I'm a Tivo nut. I could bring myself to invest in this without an HD Tivo, and after doing a little research on the current HD-Tivo box, there's too much uncertainty with DirecTV's plans on this front. In addition, the HD-Tivo would've cost me an extra $600 out of pocket while I wait a few months for a $200 rebate check. I don't currently have the means to spend $2000+ on this change just yet. Besdies, I'm so mad at DrecTV that may just ride out the rest of my contract with them and *gulp* go with a cable provider instead. The whole Rupert Murdoch acquisition/Tivo/NDS thing created a sore spot for me where DirecTV is concerned. But that's a discussion for anoher thread.


Lastly, I'm concerned that everything gets upconverted to 1080i. Sure it's better than my current 27XBR, but if I'm patient enough to hold off another year I may be able to get something with a native 720p display at 34" or larger for about $1200. Even if I decided I still wanted a 960, the prices continue to drop on them and I may get an even better deal on one. The best time to buy one would be when the distribution channel is nearly out of them and everyone wants to blow them out to make way for new stuff. I know that time is near, but many online retailers are still selling the 960 for $1899 or $1699.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kheiden* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I went to Best Buy last weekend to finally take the plunge...but I ended up not purchasing the 960 because it ended up still costing me too much for everything I wanted. I tried the "$1000 not a penny more" with Best Buy and they weren't taking it. They said $1199 was below their employee cost so no further discounts were available on this floor model.



I would not buy a floor model even for a grand.




> Quote:
> Second, I'm a Tivo nut. I could bring myself to invest in this without an HD Tivo, and after doing a little research on the current HD-Tivo box, there's too much uncertainty with DirecTV's plans on this front. In addition, the HD-Tivo would've cost me an extra $600 out of pocket while I wait a few months for a $200 rebate check. I don't currently have the means to spend $2000+ on this change just yet.



I don't blame you, although DirecTV is supposed to have upgrade programs and such for when they roll out MPEG4 and the newer hardware that they showed at CES. I think you should call them and get more information.



> Quote:
> Lastly, I'm concerned that everything gets upconverted to 1080i.



Don't be.



> Quote:
> Sure it's better than my current 27XBR, but if I'm patient enough to hold off another year I may be able to get something with a native 720p display at 34" or larger for about $1200.



Maybe. You can keep on waiting and never buy anything or enjoy anything now, as well. Keep the chasing the rainbow, as it were.


I very seriously doubt you will see a display come out in the next year, for


----------



## snapperhead

I'll do my best to describe what I'm seeing when I watch DVD's (forgive my non-technical terms).


I was watching the Mummy (1999 version) and noticed during a wide shot the actors in the distance had a "pixelation" around them. It was sort of blurry, sort of grainy, and completely outlined them. I admit I was pretty close to the t.v. at the time but I'm wondering what this is. I also noticed it last night when watching Robots but didn't see it happen at all on the Incredibles. So I think it's just on certain movies. If anyone can offer their opinion I would appreciate it.


----------



## doretta




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *masbama* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Doretta: I'm just providing actual information provided by Sony. At least its legit unlike non provable rumors on this website.



Uh, yeah, sure. When a person says, "I talked to Sony and they said..." to me that is just as credible as "I cut this text from a message from Sony".


Here, let's try it, I cut this text from a message I got from Sony in answer to a question:


"This masbama character has been faking messages from us, must be some kind of weirdo."


You came in here and essentially accused other posters of lying. They have exactly the same incentive to lie about what they learned as you do to fake an answer from Sony. I don't think you did fake your answer, you might want to consider giving them the same courtesy of the benefit of the doubt.


In my experience interacting with CSRs from big companies, it's the exception rather than the rule that if I ask two of them the same question I get the same answer. Completely contradictory answers are more common.


----------



## Grog71

i pick my 960 up tomorrow at a local electronics store. 1199.00 and another 50 off of that for them taking so long to get me the tv. yes it is a new tv and it is the 960N. Now my problem is the cable com pany with a back order on the HD DVR box. I hope i will enjoy this tv since it is my first HD tv.


----------



## joebxr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Grog71* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i pick my 960 up tomorrow at a local electronics store. 1199.00 and another 50 off of that for them taking so long to get me the tv. yes it is a new tv and it is the 960N. Now my problem is the cable com pany with a back order on the HD DVR box. I hope i will enjoy this tv since it is my first HD tv.



Does cable company have non DVR box available? If so, get that then trade them back for the other when it arrives.


----------



## Grog71

no the cable company doesnt have the regular HD boxes either. So i called them so i can at least get the cable card and they told me a week for that silly thing. Anyway that is what i am getting hopefully in a week. we shall see.


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Grog71* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> no the cable company doesnt have the regular HD boxes either. So i called them so i can at least get the cable card and they told me a week for that silly thing. Anyway that is what i am getting hopefully in a week. we shall see.



If your cable company is like mine, you will at least get some HD right away. Due to poor planning on my part, I had to wait a week or so for my HD DVR installation, *after* getting the 960. After hooking up the cable to the TV and running a setup for channels I did find a number of HD channels to enjoy for the week (e.g., CBS, NBC, ABC, PBS).


Congrats on the new set and enjoy!


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

I apologize if someone else has run into this and posted in the last 113 pages but a search on the word audio does not hit on a similar problem.


I am working with the local engineer at the local ABC station to try and figure out this problem and wondering if anyone else is having this problem in any other market.


For me it started about 4 weeks. On the local ABC, I am getting audio dropouts for 3-5 seconds at a time.


The station is the strongest signal I have. I do NOT have the problem with the MyHD cards fed off the same antenna amp.


At first I suspected it was the new encoder ABC put on the East Coast to get rid of the green stripe that the two of us tracked down last year. However, it happens on local AND network programming eliminating this option as the NY encoder would not be in the picture on non-network programming.


Now, I have cable AND a cable STB. The audio dropout does not happen over cable - and the Engineer has had no reports of it anywhere else - though he might not at this point.


Today, as I have a cablecard as well as the STB, I kept the TV on the CableCard and sure enough - the audio dropout IS HAPPENING ON THE QAM TUNER AS WELL.


Here's the wierd part - NO OTHER STATIONS HAVE THIS PROBLEM.


So clearly, something has happened in the signal that the Sony KD34XBR960 does not like.


We are going to put a scope on the signal in the next several days to see if anything has changed, but I am looking for anyone else that might have ever run across anything similar so that we might contact that station and compare notes - especially if it started at a specific time.


Again:


Audio Drop outs on KD34XBR960 on one station (or possibly some but not all stations) with good signal.


Audio Drop outs on ATSC and/or QAM tuner on that station.


Ring any bells?


I suspect it is some wierd combination that something in the broadcast chain and the tuner that Sony was making about this time that don't like each other - but where the problem really is....who knows at this point.


----------



## kny3twalker

I had a similiar problem with my KD-30XS955 with UPN

it was apparently only there when they broadcasted in HD and my DirecTV source did not have the same problem


I checked with others at the HD programming/receptions forums here, and it was typical of UPN to have problems with HD, I did not have my Fusion HDTV card yet so I cannot tell you if was simply my TV and at the time the over the air tuner in my HDTV was my only HDTV source


anyways my point is have you checked the HDTV programming forums?


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs

was watching saw 2 tonight, aside from my horizontal line problem that i got while watching this... ghosting was horrible.. horrible...hoprrible


----------



## kheiden




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would not buy a floor model even for a grand.



My current 27XBR is 15 yrs. old and it was a floor sample. Nothing wrong with a TV that comes with the same warranty as a new one in my experience. I've done it twice.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Maybe. You can keep on waiting and never buy anything or enjoy anything now, as well. Keep the chasing the rainbow, as it were.
> 
> 
> I very seriously doubt you will see a display come out in the next year, for


----------



## kny3twalker

DLPs are definitely not in the same league as any directview technology, CRT, plasma or LCD, IMO as far as picture quality is concerned


as far as picture is concerned nothing under 2k will touch a XBR Sony


----------



## hrbngr

hello,


i have read quite a few of the 110+ pages of posts on the XBR960 in this thread and I was wondering if someone could re-post or just relate their experience of how this set handles SD/Directv signals.


Basically, I watch MOTOGP racing and Washington Wizards BBall which is only SD and i have great difficulty watching this on even the 42" ED plasma that i bought, i have since replaced this w/a 62" DLP. Of course the DLP will be even worse, but my 27" Toshiba crt (bedroom) is really not large enough to enjoy the racing--and the picture quality on it is just so so.


Anyways, do most here watch SD in one of the stretch modes or in letter box/side black bar settings on this set? Does this set do better w/SD via the s-vid or component or is hdmi the preferred input?


i have seen some complaints here about SD quality, but i haven't been able to determine what this is in comparison too. As the set is smaller that 37" lcds, 42" plasmas, etc.., its' SD picture should still be better, right?


thanks.


----------



## gigaguy

Not sure what your 'difficulty on the Plasma is, but my 960 looks pretty good in SD but you gotta tweak it after break in, (basically turn everything off or down).

I came from a high-end 4:3 Sony tube (32XBR100) so nothing looks as good to me in SD on any set, be it an SD or a HD set. SD Color and detail on the 32XBR100 (retailed for $3000 in the 90's) is unmatched IMO.


Anyway, the 960 does well in SD. I hate all stretch (and zoom) modes, the Wide sony stretch is tolerable for general shows without much movement around the screen, but sports I think would be lacking. SD on the 960 is about 28", so I would think it would be a letdown from any 62"er.


Better get one soon, if any are left.


----------



## PeteH579




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gigaguy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not sure what your 'difficulty on the Plasma is, but my 960 looks pretty good in SD but you gotta tweak it after break in, (basically turn everything off or down).
> 
> I came from a high-end 4:3 Sony tube (32XBR100) so nothing looks as good to me in SD on any set, be it an SD or a HD set. SD Color and detail on the 32XBR100 (retailed for $3000 in the 90's) is unmatched IMO.
> 
> 
> Anyway, the 960 does well in SD. I hate all stretch (and zoom) modes, the Wide sony stretch is tolerable for general shows without much movement around the screen, but sports I think would be lacking. SD on the 960 is about 28", so I would think it would be a letdown from any 62"er.
> 
> 
> Better get one soon, if any are left.



I would say a big DITTO to everything above. And I even have a 32XBR100 that just

started to flake out.

Be sure to get the new Directv receiver and watch in normal mode.

But anything other than HDTV is a bit of a retreat.


----------



## irhxcbcziuzxs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *irhxcbcziuzxs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> was watching saw 2 tonight, aside from my horizontal line problem that i got while watching this... ghosting was horrible.. horrible...hoprrible



why the heck does the ps3 have to hdmi slots, it cant use them both at the same time can it...im aware the 960n only has one


----------



## kny3twalker

the PS3 has two hdmi ports for displaying on two screens, not for use on simply one


----------



## POWERFUL

This TV runs on Linux right? If that is the case anybody know if you could program this set for timer recording with a D-VHS deck? Isn't the point of having a VCR is the ability to timeshift material without you being there to start and stop it?


----------



## kny3twalker

but Computers do not have 5C encyption enabled on their firewire ports

I think this maybe a large part of the problem

but I have not done much research towards this, as my XS does not have iLink nor will the new XBR LCD that should be in home soon


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *POWERFUL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This TV runs on Linux right? If that is the case anybody know if you could program this set for timer recording with a D-VHS deck? Isn't the point of having a VCR is the ability to timeshift material without you being there to start and stop it?



The XBR960 onscreen firewire device interface allows the user to manually control the outboard D-VHS VCR for PLAY, STOP, FF, REW, REC, etc. So Sony clearly knows the codes that need to be sent to a D-VHS VCR to control it. They just apparently didn't plan to have the XBR960 be a "master" in a master/slave relationship with a D-VHS VCR for unattended timer recordings.


One can argue that this is under-engineering, or user-unfriendliness... and I'd agree. WHY NOT???


Similar bizarre design in JVC D-VHS VCR's not supporting unattended timer recording using their I-n firewire input!! They can be set to do unattended timer recording for tuner and composite/S-video input, and they can do manual recording from I-n firewire input, but they can't be set to do unattended timer recording from I-n firewire input! WHY NOT?


Nevertheless, nobody but Sony is going to program or re-program the XBR960, just as only JVC will ever decide they should support unattended timer recording from I-n firewire input.


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> Can't happen. The XBR960 will not feed its ATSC tuner output over firewire to the outboard D-VHS VCR for recording... timer-triggered or manually attempted. That's just the way they've built it. The XBR960 interface can control the outboard D-VHS VCR for PLAY, STOP, FF, REW, etc. But if you push REC the VCR will simply be recording "black". No content data from the XBR960's tuner goes out over firewire.



this must have something to with it being a TV rather than a stand alone tuner

cause firewire is two way,

the TV must not be able to change channels without being powered on


----------



## lzzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *irhxcbcziuzxs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> why the heck does the ps3 have to hdmi slots, it cant use them both at the same time can it...im aware the 960n only has one



I heard a while back that it was so that you can splitscreen and have both screens in high def. if my memory serves me right.


----------



## POWERFUL




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You mean exporting the ATSC tuner output from the XBR960 to an outboard D-VHS deck (e.g. JVC DH5U) connected via firewire, and controlling the outboard VCR for a timer recording programmed on the XBR960 (just as the onscreen firewire user interface of the XBR960 can manually control an outboard D-VHS VCR connected via firewire)?
> 
> 
> Can't happen. The XBR960 will not feed its ATSC tuner output over firewire to the outboard D-VHS VCR for recording... timer-triggered or manually attempted. That's just the way they've built it. The XBR960 interface can control the outboard D-VHS VCR for PLAY, STOP, FF, REW, etc. But if you push REC the VCR will simply be recording "black". No content data from the XBR960's tuner goes out over firewire.



Now that's not funny. If you were a true owner of this TV you would know you can manually feed the digital signal through firewire and record it. Maybe you don't have a good deck or something. DSperber please do not post info that is wrong, I would not want someone steered in the wrong direction based on misinformation. But I might be wrong on the whole timer record, but since the XBR already has a timer function surely it couldn't be too hard assuming you could get into the kernel, and write a DVHS stop and record command? Look I'm not a coder and wouldn't pretend to be, but with that being said Linux is a clearly open ended software which if one can access could change. OK I've put it out there for some one smarter then me to try, but in the meanwhile if I want to go the unattended rec route, who has had problems with a timer program, and then set a RS VCR Programmer to start and stop the recording to a D-VHS VCR based on doing this?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *POWERFUL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now that's not funny. If you were a true owner of this TV you would know you can manually feed the digital signal through firewire and record it.



I happen to be a "true owner" of this TV. However I did not believe I was providing misinformation when I first replied, although now after repeating experiments I thought I had once performed I have reversed my position and realize that what I said was totally incorrect.


You are in fact 100% correct, and I am in fact 100% wrong. My apology.


The XBR960 can, indeed, provide the digital data output from its built-in ATSC OTA tuner to an outboard D-VHS VCR via firewire for recording. As you pointed out in your initial comments, the process is all manual (rather than unattended timer-controlled by the XBR960)... but it does truly work, as far as facilitating the HD recording to D-VHS.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *POWERFUL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> surely it couldn't be too hard assuming you could get into the kernel, and write a DVHS stop and record command?



Probably not. In fact, that's exactly how two different "separate" receiver/VCR arrangements operate (one for HD, one for SD)... in years past: (1) Panny combo for HD, with DST50 receiver connected by firewire to its separate PV-HD1000 D-VHS VCR, and (2) Hughes D* E45 receiver for SD, connected by firewire to its separate Hughes HDR205 or RCA VR911HF or Hitachi VTDX815A D-VHS VCR's, all of which are essentially identical SD D-VHS machines compatible with the E45 receiver.


I happen to own ALL of the above hardware (including four E45 receivers, which are still in use at my four SD TV's with mated firewire-connected SD D-VHS VCR's) and have used ALL of it over time! At the moment, the Panny combo is "out to pasture", replaced by a JVC DT100U, but I used the Panny combo until Feb 2004 with my Dish 5000+modulator until E* discontinued support. I am fully appreciative of the ability for a receiver to exercise full control over its slave D-VHS VCR via firewire and protocol commands.


And, as you surmise, it is obviously not difficult for a programmer to insert the requisite STOP/REC commands, and maybe even to insert POWER ON/OFF if that's the functional design, and to emit these commands to make the outboard D-VHS VCR behave as intended for the timer recording event. In fact, that is what makes these above receiver/VCR pairs so extremely user-friendly... that all I need to worry about is setting (or leaving) a timer event with a very user-friendly EPG-based one-click programming method, and popping a tape into the VCR and powering both OFF. The E45 supports 32 timer events, so I use these device pairs as my digital tape-based Tivo having pre-programmed my complete weekly viewing schedule across my four SD D-VHS setups. Then I have the advantage of being able to watch any SD D-VHS tape on any other SD D-VHS setup, something that can't be done with today's DVR's.


Nevertheless, that is NOT the way the XBR960 works. It was not built to control an outboard D-VHS VCR via firewire for timer or manual recordings, but rather only to control the D-VHS VCR for recording and playback, and to feed digital data to the VCR for recording via firewire. Obviously they knew what D-VHS commands were needed to control the VCR (including pressing the REC button on the VCR, since it's presented on the user interface), since pushing the onscreen buttons makes the VCR do what you'd expect.


----------



## POWERFUL

I will assume you are correct even though I have recordings doing exactly what you say can't be done, i.e. hitting the record button in the i.link setup, then why did Sony put the record button in?


----------



## SeldomSeen31

I've had my XBR960 for a little over a week now and just noticed a display problem yesterday. There is a horizontal line, appearing to be just 1 line high, that does not display anything, its just a black line that runs all the way accross the screen about 4 inshes up from the bottom. It is hardly noticeable from a distance of 4 or 5 feet but I was up close changing a DVD when I saw it. It appears in all of the inputs that I have, OTA, SD and HD cable, DVD and PS2. Is there a fix in the SM or is this a service call type problem? Anyone have any ideas?


This forum has been a great help in choosing a TV and getting it calibrated, thanks to all who have posted. And thanks in advance for any help on this issue.


----------



## bbbobbb

Question 406:

http://computer.howstuffworks.com/question406.htm


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SeldomSeen31* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've had my XBR960 for a little over a week now and just noticed a display problem yesterday. There is a horizontal line, appearing to be just 1 line high, that does not display anything, its just a black line that runs all the way accross the screen about 4 inshes up from the bottom. It is hardly noticeable from a distance of 4 or 5 feet but I was up close changing a DVD when I saw it. It appears in all of the inputs that I have, OTA, SD and HD cable, DVD and PS2. Is there a fix in the SM or is this a service call type problem? Anyone have any ideas?
> 
> 
> This forum has been a great help in choosing a TV and getting it calibrated, thanks to all who have posted. And thanks in advance for any help on this issue.



Are you taking about one of the two lines behind the grill? If so these are explained here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post6595287 (hopefully this works... it's my first time trying to link to a post).


----------



## dnsw06

Got a question for the experts out there. Sometimes my KD-34XBR960 will have discoloration on the edges on the screen. For example if the screen is correctly displaying blue some of the edges will be red. Does anyone else have this problem. Mine is not constant but happens enought to try and find a fix. Thanks!


----------



## POWERFUL

DSperber, thank you for finally seeing the light, next time don't judge an idea without fully trying youself. I may not have as many posts as you but I have gotten to know my set pretty well. I have seen on these forums that some people who in fact set the XBR960 on the timer mode and then use the Radio Shack VCR programmer to do unattended recordings. It is not the same as what I'm recommended someone do, but it is close.


----------



## lzzy

Do you guys think $1300 for a display xbr960 is a good price. If not what do you think would be a great price? By the way this is at Best Buy.


----------



## mapson

lzzy, I'd say that is a good price for it new.


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> Do you guys think $1300 for a display xbr960 is a good price. If not what do you think would be a great price? By the way this is at Best Buy.



no thats sounds like an aweful price, of course the only way I would take a floor model is if you gave it to me


anyways anything over half price is too much for a floor model


----------



## joebxr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lzzy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Do you guys think $1300 for a display xbr960 is a good price. If not what do you think would be a great price? By the way this is at Best Buy.



I would look around...not a good price. I just bought mine this past week, new, for $1350 delivered price (+tax) from local Sony authorized. If I can buy new for that, then a floor/open box should be closer to $1,000 before I would even consider it. Not sure for $350 difference if I could be convinced to buy other than new.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *POWERFUL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> DSperber, thank you for finally seeing the light, next time don't judge an idea without fully trying youself. I have seen on these forums that some people who in fact set the XBR960 on the timer mode and then use the Radio Shack VCR programmer to do unattended recordings. It is not the same as what I'm recommended someone do, but it is close.



My apologies, again (corrections edited in that other thread, and I'll edit this one as well so that inaccuracies are deleted).


I obviously just falsely remembered the results of my experiments. I must have been thinking of something else... like whether my Panny PV-HD1000 could be used as a recording device for either Motorola DCT6412 or XBR960 as the source (and it cannot, because the PV-HD1000 is not 5C-compliant).


Anyway, it is true, and you are correct: the XBR960 ATSC tuner can, indeed, provide data over firewire to a proper 5C-compliant recording device (certainly JVC D-VHS VCR's, and possibly computers... maybe).


As far as the Rube Goldberg method of using a 3rd-party IR blaster to simulate unattended recording functionality, well I had used that type of method as well when I was using a D* Hughes E86 along with my JVC 40K and Motorola 6208 STB. I used the timer/blaster from the E86 to control the 40K, to theoretically match the timer ON/OFF setting on the 6208... so that I could record HD from the 6208 "unattended" (since I couldn't record from the E86, which doesn't have firewire, and the 6208 like the XBR960 cannot control an outboard D-VHS VCR connected via firewire but can only pass digital data to it across firewire). It was not 100% reliable, and quite complicated compared to how it really should have worked.


Ultimately, I ditched the E86, gave up D* HD, and upgraded to the Comcast 6412 with its great recording/playback and Guide conveniences and advantages. I now only archive/record from 6412 to D-VHS when I want to really save something or free up hard drive space.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *POWERFUL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I will assume you are correct even though I have recordings doing exactly what you say can't be done, i.e. hitting the record button in the i.link setup, then why did Sony put the record button in?



Nope... I'm wrong. It was YOU who was correct. My mistake.


You can in fact push the REC button, either on the VCR/remote itself or using the Sony firewire onscreen interface, and the ATSC tuner data from the XBR960 will indeed be recorded via firewire by the D-VHS VCR.


Don't know what prior experiment I was thinking of, but what I said in response to your comments was truly wrong. Sorry again.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kny3twalker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> this must have something to with it being a TV rather than a stand alone tuner cause firewire is two way, the TV must not be able to change channels without being powered on



I should be punished. My statement is entirely incorrect. My mistake.


Yes, firewire TO/FROM the XBR960 is definitely 2-way... it can be used as a playback display FROM a D-VHS VCR via firewire, and the builti-in ATSC tuner output definitely IS provided over firewire TO a D-VHS VCR for recording.


Please erase my prior 100% inaccurate comments from your mind.


----------



## lzzy

Thanks for the replys guys I also thought it was too steep. I would also like to add how do you guys get such low prices from authorized dealers. I ask, because I called Sony's 1-800 number and the sales/customer rep. said their prices are set in stone as far as TV's under 40' is concerned. He said they don't do price matches or anything. I got a similar response when I called crutchfield. Are you guys ordering from less well known companies that are sony authorized and if so which one's?


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> I should be punished. My statement is entirely incorrect. My mistake.
> 
> 
> Yes, firewire TO/FROM the XBR960 is definitely 2-way... it can be used as a playback display FROM a D-VHS VCR via firewire, and the builti-in ATSC tuner output definitely IS provided over firewire TO a D-VHS VCR for recording.
> 
> 
> Please erase my prior 100% inaccurate comments from your mind.



I thought it could but do not own the TV

only thing I really knew was there was trouble getting it to work with a PC


good to hear though

and do not worry about it, we all make mistakes


----------



## joebxr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lzzy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the replys guys I also thought it was too steep. I would also like to add how do you guys get such low prices from authorized dealers. I ask, because I called Sony's 1-800 number and the sales/customer rep. said their prices are set in stone as far as TV's under 40' is concerned. He said they don't do price matches or anything. I got a similar response when I called crutchfield. Are you guys ordering from less well known companies that are sony authorized and if so which one's?



Do you have any local Audio/Video stores, (not BB or CC)? The local stores are more capable of dealing. You may not get the low, low internet pricing, but dealing locally has tremendous advantages. There are also some chains that will discount better than the BB and CC stores. Shop it around, talk to the salesman and tell them you have found lower pricing via internet and with shipping it is stil lower than their price. Ask them to give you best price, because you prefer to support your local store, etc. Unles they do not have buying power and paid too much for the TV's, they have room to move. Shoot for the $1400 point at least.


Happy shopping.....


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> Do you have any local Audio/Video stores, (not BB or CC)? The local stores are more capable of dealing. You may not get the low, low internet pricing, but dealing locally has tremendous advantages. There are also some chains that will discount better than the BB and CC stores. Shop it around, talk to the salesman and tell them you have found lower pricing via internet and with shipping it is stil lower than their price. Ask them to give you best price, because you prefer to support your local store, etc. Unles they do not have buying power and paid too much for the TV's, they have room to move. Shoot for the $1400 point at least.



if you can get it for 1500 I would not pass on it though


----------



## joebxr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kny3twalker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> if you can get it for 1500 I would not pass on it though



I would agree...this could possibly be the last of the great 34" CRT's you may be able to buy. That has a lot of value by itself.


----------



## lzzy

Thanks guys will try!


----------



## lsfrankel

Anyone know the gist behind "Steady Sound" exactly? The manual simply says it works between programs and commercials. Does that mean between one channel's programs and it's commercials or is it between one channel and another channel? I don't think it works either way and Yes I know that Effect needs to be off.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lsfrankel* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone know the gist behind "Steady Sound" exactly? The manual simply says it works between programs and commercials. Does that mean between one channel's programs and it's commercials or is it between one channel and another channel? I don't think it works either way and Yes I know that Effect needs to be off. I'll let you know what Sony told me after I get some feedback from the gallery!



Just post what Sony told you rather than having us playing a guessing game.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just post what Sony told you rather than having us playing a guessing game.




Exactly. What's with all the coy BS? Just state it plainly.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joebxr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would agree...this could possibly be the last of the great 34" CRT's you may be able to buy. That has a lot of value by itself.



As far as we are concerned, this not will be the last of the great 34" CRT's, it will also be remembered as the "greatest" of the great 34" CRT's!


The live coverage of the winter olympics this morning on INHD couldn't have looked better!


----------



## joebxr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As far as we are concerned, this not will be the last of the great 34" CRT's, it will also be remembered as the "greatest" of the great 34" CRT's!
> 
> 
> The live coverage of the winter olympics this morning on INHD couldn't have looked better!



Mine was just delivered this morning. First think I watched was the Women's hockey from Olympics on INHD...I was just totally in awe. Talk about vivd, bright, and realistic...the picture had so much depth and detail I couldn't believe it.


----------



## TCB

Okay, flame-retardant suit on...

Try as I will, I cannot get used to watching the tv in Pro mode. It is too dark. I've tried other settings, but it just isn't pleasing to my eye. Will watching it in Standard shorten this tv's life? What about, God forbid, vivid?


TCB


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

It's your TV....watch it how you like - even if its wrong. That's why they give you different settings. You can watch as it was intended or watch how you please.


You like to hear the full range of acoustic music - but if someone else wants only synthesizers, so what?


Doesn't mean I would do it or its right.


----------



## PeteH579




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TCB* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Okay, flame-retardant suit on...
> 
> Try as I will, I cannot get used to watching the tv in Pro mode. It is too dark. I've tried other settings, but it just isn't pleasing to my eye. Will watching it in Standard shorten this tv's life? What about, God forbid, vivid?
> 
> 
> TCB




I had trouble with the Pro mode but worked at fine tuning it for a week.


Double check all settings . Color axis = Monitor, color 45


I either became adjusted to the Pro mode or somehow improved it to my

liking.


Oh yeah I put color temp on neutral and VM edge off.


But it does depend on what you watch. On Directv some channels are dark.

I just switch to standard mode for those which I have set up to my liking.


----------



## MarcWalpole

I have an OTA connected to 1 ant. input used strictly for HD channels; a second OTA is connected to the other ant input;input 1 is Sat (DirectTV) in (for Twin view), input 2 is unused, 3 is for a DVR, 4 unused , 5 for DVD, 6 unused and 7 for HDMI Satellite(Directv)....my question is whenever I go to INDEX all I get in the scroll what appears to be an unused channel (57) from one of the antennae; ? : how does the XBR determine what goes in that right box? I know that digital sources along with Video 5,6,7 cannot be displayed in the right window; I can get SD stations from antenna 2(the cable input which is connected to the second, non HD antenna), but none appear in the scroll..thanks to all


----------



## Wallstridr

I have the same problem so I had the Sony repairman come out to check it out. ( Only one month old so still under warrantee). He moved the sub and the red glow in the corner went almost completely away. I got rid of the speaker and it appeared to go away. Well yesterday if was back but very faint. I moved the TV away from the wall and turned it to a different angle and it went completely away. On the other side of the wall is the kitchen. My guess is that it is picking something up from in there. There must be some product we can purchase to block this interference. I want it in that corner. That is the best place for it in my living room. Maybe someone out there has the answer. I LOVE THIS TELEVISION !!!!!


----------



## kevinkemp2001

Hello All

Just purchased a 34XBR960N as my main TV for the family room. The current 34XBR910 purchased in October 2003 will move into the bedroom. Travelled a little distance to pick up the last of the ancient creatures. I must say Sony set the world on fire when they made this picture tube in 2000 in the KV36DZ900. In August 2000 I travelled to Akihabarra Japan to pick up a DZ900 and send it home, but the salesman told me to wait as Sony and others were going to make a major HD push in America. So here we are almost 6 years later and this tube still reigns supreme in the 34XBR960N. My unit is still sitting in the box.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevinkemp2001* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello All
> 
> Just purchased a 34XBR960N as my main TV for the family room. The current 34XBR910 purchased in October 2003 will move into the bedroom. Travelled a little distance to pick up the last of the ancient creatures. I must say Sony set the world on fire when they made this picture tube in 2000 in the KV36DZ900. In August 2000 I travelled to Akihabarra Japan to pick up a DZ900 and send it home, but the salesman told me to wait as Sony and others were going to make a major HD push in America. So here we are almost 6 years later and this tube still reigns supreme in the 34XBR960N. My unit is still sitting in the box.




I hope you enjoy it for a long time to come. We're here to help ya!


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joebxr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mine was just delivered this morning. First think I watched was the Women's hockey from Olympics on INHD...I was just totally in awe. Talk about vivd, bright, and realistic...the picture had so much depth and detail I couldn't believe it.



The live pictures on UHD were outstanding but I bet ya watched the game because of this great picture - it couldn't have been due to what was happening on the ice, with the Italian team losing by a score of 15-0!


Congratulations on your new set! As you get more comfortable with establishing your settings you will love it even more.


----------



## 2loudattrillium

Went over to BB this weekend and did a "test" pickup on the TV. If I can't pick it up myself, it doesn't come into the house.


As a result of nearly getting a hernia, I am opting for the Sharp 37" LCD.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *2loudattrillium* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Went over to BB this weekend and did a "test" pickup on the TV. If I can't pick it up myself, it doesn't come into the house.
> 
> 
> As a result of nearly getting a hernia, I am opting for the Sharp 37" LCD.



I just don't understand this at all.


Why not have the TV delivered and installed? $20 tops? (Usually this can get negotiated off)


How often do you really plan on moving and muscling around your TV?


And the last time I checked, the 37 inch Sharp wasn't exactly something you could play a game of basketball with.


----------



## 2loudattrillium




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just don't understand this at all.
> 
> 
> Why not have the TV delivered and installed? $20 tops? (Usually this can get negotiated off)
> 
> 
> How often do you really plan on moving and muscling around your TV?
> 
> 
> And the last time I checked, the 37 inch Sharp wasn't exactly something you could play a game of basketball with.










I don't like waiting for things to be delivered. I usually get bored of my apartments (or get a bigger one) almost every year. Also, theres no way my 110lb fiance can help me move this behemoth. At 57.3lbs the LC-37D4U could be easily moved. Don't get me wrong, I'm not an LCD fanboi, but for my practicality the 960XBR is just too unwieldy.


Still a beautiful picture though... wish I could get one.


----------



## TCB

2loud,

If you are moving yearly, you are making the right decision.


----------



## synyster




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *2loudattrillium* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't like waiting for things to be delivered. I usually get bored of my apartments (or get a bigger one) almost every year. Also, theres no way my 110lb fiance can help me move this behemoth. At 57.3lbs the LC-37D4U could be easily moved. Don't get me wrong, I'm not an LCD fanboi, but for my practicality the 960XBR is just too unwieldy.
> 
> 
> Still a beautiful picture though... wish I could get one.




My BB only had 5 XBR's on stock so I purchased one yesterday. It was onsale for 1699, plus if I signed up for comcast HD(which i planned on getting anyway) they took an extra 100 off plus my had some $50 gift cards, so I got it at a good price. Their shpipping was only $50 and they said they could get it to me in 2 days. For a tv like the 960 I would wait a week. It is worth it.


----------



## Joesteam

I have this TV for a year and love it. One problem is that there is no 'ON' light. Sometimes my kids turn off the cable box but leave the TV on, only way to tell is in a very dark room there will be a glow. Anyone know any tricks to show some type of on light in the front panel??

Thanks


----------



## Tom Parker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TCB* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Okay, flame-retardant suit on...
> 
> Try as I will, I cannot get used to watching the tv in Pro mode. It is too dark. I've tried other settings, but it just isn't pleasing to my eye. Will watching it in Standard shorten this tv's life? What about, God forbid, vivid?
> 
> 
> TCB



You would do well to check out Ken Tech's thread about the Sony Service Mode and his specific comments on that thread and this one regarding settings for the 34" XBR 960. I really didn't like how dark the set appeared from the manufacturer in pro mode, but it is now nothing short of dazzling.


Of course, if you're uncomfortable in the service mode, stay away! If you go in, keep notes of original settings, and you will love the result.


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TCB* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Okay, flame-retardant suit on...
> 
> Try as I will, I cannot get used to watching the tv in Pro mode. It is too dark. I've tried other settings, but it just isn't pleasing to my eye. Will watching it in Standard shorten this tv's life? What about, God forbid, vivid?
> 
> 
> TCB



Standard mode is OK - that's what I use now. But it isn't the mode as much as it is the settings for Picture (Contrast), Brightness, etc.


I know how dark Pro can seem. It's a matter of an acquired taste and tinkering with Picture and Brightness to get the best, brightest picture.


In Standard try Picture at 40 and Brightness at 47. See if you like it...


----------



## TCB

Thanks all!


----------



## mr2828




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joesteam* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have this TV for a year and love it. One problem is that there is no 'ON' light. Sometimes my kids turn off the cable box but leave the TV on, only way to tell is in a very dark room there will be a glow. Anyone know any tricks to show some type of on light in the front panel??
> 
> Thanks



On mine, if there is no signal, the display shows you which input you're on continuously. Doesn't yours do that?


Actually there are some times I would like to have a completely blank screen with no video input, for instance if I'm just using an input to listen to some music input. Anyone know how to do this?


----------



## POWERFUL

If you feed a cable box signal to a video input usually it will remain in standby even when it seems to be off. So the XBR still thinks there is a video signal coming through even though it is not. This is how I listen to my iPod at night without being kept up. I just select an additional video input from the cable box with the iPod connected to the audio inputs, set the sleep timer on the TV, and select the appro. playlist to the time of the sleep timer and its off the dream land, without being kept up because of too much light.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr2828* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> On mine, if there is no signal, the display shows you which input you're on continuously. Doesn't yours do that?
> 
> 
> Actually there are some times I would like to have a completely blank screen with no video input, for instance if I'm just using an input to listen to some music input. Anyone know how to do this?



Why not make an additional audio connection to your receiver using the coaxil or optical ouput from your cable box? We do and listen to PCM without leaving the set on. Just be sure to change the audio output setting on your cable box from "HDMI" to "other" when listening to music (Dolby Digital setting will weaken the sound).


----------



## mr2828

Because... *gasp* I don't have a receiver. Believe it or not. I know... heresy.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

I've found the"vertical center" setting properly centers 4x3 material viewed in wide-zoom while "vertical correction" makes the proper center adjustment for letterboxed recordings made by my DVD recorder (which only records in 4x3 aspect ratio) played back using zoom. Since both apply to centering non 16x9 material I just wanted to be sure I properly understood the function for each.


----------



## pharmerphil

I want a XBR 960. Living in rural NW Tn. I don't have a whole lot of stores to choose from. Went to the Best Buy in Paducah, Ky. and the one in Clarksville, Tn. They had 0 in stock and said it had been deleted from their order guide. I tried 3 small authorized Sony TV stores and they also had none in stock and said they could no longer get them from Sony. I'm very leery of the Brooklyn E-Tailers and don't want to risk getting burned by them. Crutchfield has a great reputation but they are firm on their $1,899 price. After reading threads on this site it appears they can be bought in the $1,600 range from a reputable dealer. Any suggestions on where the best price, from a reliable, dependable, seller can be found? Thanks.


----------



## gigaguy

try jandr.com (j&r) mailorder in NY, very reputable, or Onecall.com both have 800 #s for ordering.


----------



## patsan

B&H Photo are very reputable. Look at resellerratings.com to see for yourself.


----------



## Dean_KS

I have had my 960N for a few days, but have not had a chance to get deeply into it.


I have two long range antennas in the attic pointed to cities east and west. I am quite impressed with the ability to pull in stations in HD.


I can switch between the two antennae connected to the two RF connectors and that is good. But it appears that the one labeled "CABLE" does not tune in DHTV. Is that connector and tuner really different or is something else going on? Suggestions?


(My old XBR's two RF inputs seemed to be identical.)


----------



## pharmerphil

Gigaguy, Appreciate your response but I'm sorry to say that I tried the two sites you mentioned, J & R and Onecall, and neither has the XBR960 listed on their sites. If anyone else has a recommendation as to where I might find a good deal on a XBR960 please feel free post the info.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pharmerphil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Gigaguy, Appreciate your response but I'm sorry to say that I tried the two sites you mentioned, J & R and Onecall, and neither has the XBR960 listed on their sites. If anyone else has a recommendation as to where I might find a good deal on a XBR960 please feel free post the info.



You may have to do Crutchfield.


----------



## snatta

This place has a good price, but I don't know anything about them. I emailed them 2 days ago and have got no response. Their web site says they ship out of a warehouse in NJ, so I don't know if they are like the Crooklyn shops or not.

http://www.newyorkwholesaleaudiovide...-P12749C0.aspx


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *snatta* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This place has a good price, but I don't know anything about them. I emailed them 2 days ago and have got no response. Their web site says they ship out of a warehouse in NJ, so I don't know if they are like the Crooklyn shops or not.
> 
> http://www.newyorkwholesaleaudiovide...-P12749C0.aspx



That price is too good to be true. I'd check these guys out with Sony and see if they're authorized first.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pharmerphil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I want a XBR 960. Living in rural NW Tn. I don't have a whole lot of stores to choose from. Went to the Best Buy in Paducah, Ky. and the one in Clarksville, Tn. They had 0 in stock and said it had been deleted from their order guide. I tried 3 small authorized Sony TV stores and they also had none in stock and said they could no longer get them from Sony. I'm very leery of the Brooklyn E-Tailers and don't want to risk getting burned by them. Crutchfield has a great reputation but they are firm on their $1,899 price. After reading threads on this site it appears they can be bought in the $1,600 range from a reputable dealer. Any suggestions on where the best price, from a reliable, dependable, seller can be found? Thanks.



Don't forget there will be no shipping charge or taxes with Crutchfield so the difference in cost would probably be less than $300. Considering 960s are getting harder to find (and can't even be purchased through Sony directly) it might be worth ordering it through Crutchfield while still available. If you're able to find another site be sure it's an authorized Sony dealer otherwise Sony might not honor the two-year warranty.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Don't forget there will be no shipping charge or taxes with Crutchfield so the difference in cost would probably be less than $300. Considering 960s are getting harder to find (and can't even be purchased through Sony directly) it might be worth ordering it through Crutchfield while still available. If you're able to find another site be sure it's an authorized Sony dealer otherwise Sony might not honor the two-year warranty.




^^ Exactly.


----------



## snatta




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That price is too good to be true. I'd check these guys out with Sony and see if they're authorized first.




They are not authorized via Sony's web site list of dealers. But, I don't see how this is going to void the warranty as long as the set is new(original package) and the serial number is not altered.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *snatta* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This place has a good price, but I don't know anything about them. I emailed them 2 days ago and have got no response. Their web site says they ship out of a warehouse in NJ, so I don't know if they are like the Crooklyn shops or not.
> 
> http://www.newyorkwholesaleaudiovide...-P12749C0.aspx



Well, the 845 area code is for the Rockland County area and since one has to purchase a two-year warranty it probably is not a Sony authorized dealer. I'd be leary.


----------



## snatta




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, the 845 area code is for the Rockland County area and since one has to purchase a two-year warranty it probably is not a Sony authorized dealer. I'd be leary.



You don't have to purchase the 2 year warranty, you can change that when you click on it to no thank you. I was hoping to get my local Boscov's to come down on their price with this store's web deal, but they haven't responded to my email for their best price quote including white glove delivery.


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> They are not authorized via Sony's web site list of dealers. But, I don't see how this is going to void the warranty as long as the set is new(original package) and the serial number is not altered.



cause Sony only warranties products sold through their authorized dealers


and yeah that price is probably too good to be true

you might end up with nothing but a credit card fight or being ripped off altogether


you nor anyone else can change Sony's policy about warranty though

I suggest buying from a safe authorized dealer to safe yourself some trouble


----------



## Pigeonest

I would'nt pay a dime more than $1,400 shipped, who cares if there not Sony Authorized, Sony would still take care of the warranty. Have many people have trouble with these sets anyways? Thats $500 less than Crutchyourwalletfield!


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pigeonest* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would'nt pay a dime more than $1,400 shipped, who cares if there not Sony Authorized, Sony would still take care of the warranty. Have many people have trouble with these sets anyways? Thats $500 less than Crutchyourwalletfield!




Sure thing noob. Whatever you say.


----------



## snatta




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kny3twalker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> cause Sony only warranties products sold through their authorized dealers
> 
> 
> and yeah that price is probably too good to be true
> 
> you might end up with nothing but a credit card fight or being ripped off altogether
> 
> 
> you nor anyone can change Sony's policy about warranty though
> 
> I suggest buying from a safe authorized dealer to safe yourself some trouble




I am not trying to start an argument with you, but is this your interpretation of Sony's warranty policy? I thought as long as the set is new and not altered, then they have to honor their warranty coverage. There are not many stores listed on their web site as authorized dealers. I thought the authorized dealer thing just means they have a direct contact with Sony to help handle any problems with your purchase. When you deal with a store that is not authorized they really can't help you, and you have to deal with Sony direct with questions or problems. This of course is my interpretation.


----------



## JG_Humphrey

It seems the XBR960N is NOT the last, great Sony XBR CRT.


The official SONY STYLE site has announcement of the KD-34XBR970 up, with a list price of $1,199.00 ! Pre-Order now for shipping in March 2006


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> I would'nt pay a dime more than $1,400 shipped, who cares if there not Sony Authorized, Sony would still take care of the warranty. Have many people have trouble with these sets anyways? Thats $500 less than Crutchyourwalletfield!



man you people are foolish

you think just because Sony makes it they have to honor a warranty when the warranty is specifically for authorized dealers only

meaning that if you buy it and sell it to someone else, the warranty is not transferrable, if you want to buy Sony items and seel them

you must become an authorized dealer for your customers to get Warranty through Sony




> Quote:
> I am not trying to start an argument with you, but is this your interpretation of Sony's warranty policy? I thought as long as the set is new and not altered, then they have to honor their warranty coverage. There are not many stores listed on their web site as authorized dealers. I thought the authorized dealer thing just means they have a direct contact with Sony to help handle any problems with your purchase. When you deal with a store that is not authorized they really can't help you, and you have to deal with Sony direct with questions or problems. This of course is my interpretation.



uh yeah you are trying to start an arguement

you only want to spend so much money so you are trying to justify spending less on a TV that is clearly worth more


Sony does not warranty products sold from non authorized dealers

I do not make the rules and interpretation will get you NO WHERE with Sony

when you have a problem with your TV


in fact sites like the one you listed, normally make you ship back the TV to their store front for repairs cause if there is a warranty they handle it and not Sony


but the chances are if you actually were dumb enough to send it back for service

you would never see it again


and however you spend your money is not of my concern, but you should know Sony will not repair it for you if the dealer is not authorized


good luck

hopefully you learned something


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JG_Humphrey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It seems the XBR960N is NOT the last, great Sony XBR CRT.



Yes it is.



> Quote:
> The official SONY STYLE site has announcement of the KD-34XBR970 up, with a list price of $1,199.00 ! Pre-Order now for shipping in March 2006



We know. You're late to the party:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=644837 

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=635394 

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=644837 


A rebadged HS420, while solid, is not great without that Super Fine Pitch Tube.


----------



## joebxr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JG_Humphrey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It seems the XBR960N is NOT the last, great Sony XBR CRT.
> 
> 
> The official SONY STYLE site has announcement of the KD-34XBR970 up, with a list price of $1,199.00 ! Pre-Order now for shipping in March 2006



If I might be so bold...several threads are open on the subject of the 970, and in each one you will find 2 very important statements...

(1) This IS NOT a replacment for the 960, nor has there been an announcement or confirmed rumor that the 960 has been discontinued

(2) The 970 DOES NOT compare to the 960 because it doesn't have the SFP tube, and additionally is missing features found on the 960....


So unless they announce a replacement for the 960....then the 960 still reigns as the current and possibly last GREAT 34" CRT HDTV


----------



## snatta




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kny3twalker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> man you people are foolish
> 
> you think just because Sony makes it they have to honor a warranty when the warranty is specifically for authorized dealers only
> 
> meaning that if you buy it and sell it to someone else, the warranty is not transferrable, if you want to buy Sony items and seel them
> 
> you must become an authorized dealer for your customers to get Warranty through Sony
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> uh yeah you are trying to start an arguement
> 
> you only want to spend so much money so you are trying to justify spending less on a TV that is clearly worth more
> 
> 
> Sony does not warranty products sold from non authorized dealers
> 
> I do not make the rules and interpretation will get you NO WHERE with Sony
> 
> when you have a problem with your TV
> 
> 
> in fact sites like the one you listed, normally make you ship back the TV to their store front for repairs cause if there is a warranty they handle it and not Sony
> 
> 
> but the chances are if you actually were dumb enough to send it back for service
> 
> you would never see it again
> 
> 
> and however you spend your money is not of my concern, but you should know Sony will not repair it for you if the dealer is not authorized
> 
> 
> good luck
> 
> hopefully you learned something





Why should I buy from an authorized dealer?

What do I get out of that?



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Plenty!! Only authorized dealers are fully trained by Sony to answer questions about how to operate your new Sony DVD player or camcorder or how to connect your Sony Wega television to that wonderful new Home Theater Sound system.


Only authorized dealers have access to Sony product managers and specialized customer service representatives. Often Sony makes available special product promotions only from authorized dealers.


In addition Sony Authorized Dealers are required to:

Provide a toll free telephone number for customer product inquiries

Provide an email product inquiry service with 24-hr response time

Provide notice of level of security offered to customers for online transactions

Display the dealer's policies on privacy and use of customer information

Send order status via e-mail within 12 hours of order placement

Ship products within 48 hours of acceptance

Provide customer with option to pick up product at retail store

Offer convenient return procedure

Offer "White Glove" delivery and set-up service for major home audio/video systems or components

Provide customized installation guide and offer installation for Mobile Electronics products


Sony authorized dealers are required to take steps to insure the integrity of your Sony purchase. Some unauthorized dealers have sold products with altered or obliterated serial numbers. Products with tampered serial numbers void the Sony Products Warranty. In addition, there have been reports of unauthorized dealers selling used products as new.


We have have not audited unauthorized e-tailers or other unauthorized dealers to determine if they meet the high customer service standards our authorized dealers are required to meet. As we generally have no relationship with unauthorized e-tailers, if you experience any difficulty with their service, we may be unable to help you.


We recomend you only purchase Sony consumer electronic products from Sony Authorized Internet Dealers


^^^

The information above that I have read from Sonystyle.com does not say that Sony will not honor their warranty if you buy from a non-authorized dealer, or that their warranty is only for authorized dealers.


The worth of something is determined by how much you actually pay for it. Only a fool would pay $1899 for a TV that many people are getting for under $1500 now. I don't think many people in this section are questioning how great an HDTV the 34xbr960 is, but if anyone thinks it is still worth $1899, then they are the ones that are foolish. I think some of you guys that bought your Sony CRT HDTVs at full price during the past couple of years are a little bitter that people are getting steals on these same sets now. But this is all just my 2 cents worth.


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> The worth of something is determined by how much you actually pay for it. Only a fool would pay $1899 for a TV that many people are getting for under $1500 now. I don't think many people in this section are questioning how great an HDTV the 34xbr960 is, but if anyone thinks it is still worth $1899, then they are the ones that are foolish. I think some of you guys that bought your Sony CRT HDTVs at full price during the past couple of years are a little bitter that people are getting steals on these same sets now. But this is all just my 2 cents worth.



Well I suggest you buy that TV from them and be done with it

I purchased from an authorized dealer and I did not pay MSRP by the way

much less


so your point of claiming I am bitter and lying for that reason does not fly


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

Considering the high number of problems getting this set right, I would *NEVER EVER* consider buying this set mailorder or over the net.


----------



## Mathesar

Well I just ordered the XBR960N through Crutchfield tonight







(free shipping / no taxes) , I couldn't find it anywhere in town and it seems this tv is becoming scarce online as well, I just hope its a worthy upgrade over my current 4:3 32HS510 (a little over 3 yrs old) , I watch a lot of analog cable and DVDs which look great on it, But my Xbox360 finally made me decide its time for a widescreen set ... Playing it on the 32HS510 via 1080i looks great but has black bars on top & bottom. For the last couple weeks I've been torn between buying a larger DLP set for around the same price or the XBR960 ... I think I made the right decision...


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pharmerphil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Gigaguy, Appreciate your response but I'm sorry to say that I tried the two sites you mentioned, J & R and Onecall, and neither has the XBR960 listed on their sites. If anyone else has a recommendation as to where I might find a good deal on a XBR960 please feel free post the info.



I bought mine last year from DigitalCraze.com . They are still in business and their web site shows XBR960N for $1550, XBR960 for $1200. They also have the 34XBR3 stand for $300.


Obviously, the price on the XBR960 has dropped since last year when I paid $1739.99 + $249.99 insured shipping by Bekins. The set was shipped from NY to LA one day after I bought it and arrived about 5 days later. Perfect experience, including several email correspondences from the salesman both before and after sale, as well as no problem reaching them by phone. I have no problem with the price I paid last year, as I've now had 1 year of use on this most glorious of CRT sets (replacing my prior sensational Sampo SME-34WHD5 whose picture tube finally went out after four years).


Absolutely 100% dependable and reliable, factory sealed brand new products, white glove delivery service into your target viewing room location, I would definitely buy from them again without hesitation. My phone salesman was Lenny Carrington, if he's still there. The Bekins guys were very nice, and removed my dead Sampo from my TV stand (happily taking it out of my house and putting it on their truck, for a trip to their warehouse for anyone to grab or dispose of), and then helped me rearrange the stand before placing my new XBR960 there and helping me get it physically settled.


They were a perfectly authorized Sony dealer, and Sony had no hesitation sending out a factory tech for my requested "new purchase adjustments" (to try and correct the common convergence and bowing problems) at no cost to me.


I don't know if they have stock for both models at this moment, but I would guess they do since they are very large Sony retailers and the web site certainly suggests no issue. I didn't call them but you certainly can to find out for yourself.


You'll obviously pay shipping charges, but no sales tax depending on your state (they're in NYC).


Don't miss out on on XBR960 (or N, I guess) before they disappear. And start using it as fast as you can.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dmk66* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hope I'm not too late but Abt Electronics in the Chicago area will sell it for $1440 with free shipping and no sales tax!! They are the largest indepedant Sony dealer in the country...



My sister and brother-in-law in Chicago were just out there yesterday, looking for a new set for their new home. I think they've decided on the KDS60XBR1 they saw on the floor and were very impressed with. Price was about $3,500 I believe, which is $1000 less than Sony's latest MSRP.


However I can't believe they will ship the 200 pound XBR960 for free to anywhere in the country, although at $1440 there's a built-n pad over the price for the set. For example, the XBR960 is available at DigitalCraze.com for $1199 (also with no sales tax out of NY), but you'll probably pay insured shipping of $250 (though I don't know exactly what, since I didn't call them).


So maybe the ABT price is reasonable, with shipping already included in their deal.


Nevertheless ABT is definitely a fabulous place for TV's and most things (including appliances, etc.).


----------



## joebxr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Considering the high number of problems getting this set right, I would *NEVER EVER* consider buying this set mailorder or over the net.



"high number of problems..." WOW, this is interesting. I've been reading this forum for quite awhile trying to make a decision. Wading through all the posts, I came to the conclusion that the XBR960 was the best quality, most reliable set available. So, I went ahead and took the plunge. Have had the set for 2 weeks, and OUT OF THE BOX it is setup great and looks fantastic. Only thing I have done is change to PRO mode.


I think it would be fair to say that any HDTV today needs tweeking, unlike the TV's of old, so there will be setup for all, somehow, someway. But i do not feel you've fairly evaluated the 960...or at least I have not seen enough posts to indicate getting the TV setup right is an issue. What I have seen is that people are really into this set and getting more involved in fine tweeking it, IMHO!


----------



## drkashner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joebxr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> "high number of problems..." WOW, this is interesting. I've been reading this forum for quite awhile trying to make a decision. Wading through all the posts, I came to the conclusion that the XBR960 was the best quality, most reliable set available. So, I went ahead and took the plunge. Have had the set for 2 weeks, and OUT OF THE BOX it is setup great and looks fantastic. Only thing I have done is change to PRO mode.
> 
> 
> I think it would be fair to say that any HDTV today needs tweeking, unlike the TV's of old, so there will be setup for all, somehow, someway. But i do not feel you've fairly evaluated the 960...or at least I have not seen enough posts to indicate getting the TV setup right is an issue. What I have seen is that people are really into this set and getting more involved in fine tweeking it, IMHO!



I got mine from ABT Electronics, through Agoraquest. They had a special deal with Agoraquest members. I think it was $1500. That was when this model was relativly new and was selling at full price. I've had mine for 1 year and 2 months and no problems at all. Only problem was when they delivered it. It was supposed to be white glove service, but they only sent 1 guy to deliver it.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Considering the *high number of problems* getting this set right, I would *NEVER EVER* consider buying this set mailorder or over the net.




What are you talking about? What kind of overstated FUD is this? Can you back this statement up with anything concrete?




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *snatta* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The worth of something is determined by how much you actually pay for it. Only a fool would pay $1899 for a TV that many people are getting for under $1500 now. I don't think many people in this section are questioning how great an HDTV the 34xbr960 is, but if anyone thinks it is still worth $1899, then they are the ones that are foolish. I think some of you guys that bought your Sony CRT HDTVs at full price during the past couple of years are a little bitter that people are getting steals on these same sets now. *But this is all just my 2 cents worth*





You definitely got that last part right, if nothing else.


----------



## Mathesar

Anywhere ive seen the XBR960 lower than 1899 doesnt include free shipping and or I'd have to pay taxes ..so paying $1899 shipped doesnt seem that bad to me.



I was curious about something tho, when looking at consumer reports latest ratings they show the XBR960 as only having 'good' sound quality while the XS model is rated with "Very good" sound , dont they both have the same speakers & subwoofer?


----------



## justsc

The only reason I would buy a set like the 960 from a little known, not authorized Sony reseller is if I had money to throw around.


To me, anything like $1K or more is a serious investment. I want to be sure that if there's any problems, for any reasons, that my reseller will be there for me. Ony a Sony authorized reseller can offer that kind of assurance.


Sets purchased from non-authorized resellers are referred to as "grey market" merchandise. It's not illegal, but buying from these outfits is of the highest risk.


Sony is in no way obligated to honor its warranty when sold by one of these resellers, and will not do so almost 99.9% of the time. The reasons have already been stated above.


Value goes much, much further than the price paid. Like I said, if you have $1,500 or more to throw around then, by all means, go grey market - because under such circumstances it would be a waste to pay full price from a authorized reseller.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well I just ordered the XBR960N through Crutchfield tonight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (free shipping / no taxes) , I couldn't find it anywhere in town and it seems this tv is becoming scarce online as well, I just hope its a worthy upgrade over my current 4:3 32HS510 (a little over 3 yrs old) , I watch a lot of analog cable and DVDs which look great on it, But my Xbox360 finally made me decide its time for a widescreen set ... Playing it on the 32HS510 via 1080i looks great but has black bars on top & bottom. For the last couple weeks I've been torn between buying a larger DLP set for around the same price or the XBR960 ... I think I made the right decision...



You won't be sorry - as good as the picture looks on your HS510 it will look even better on the 960 due to the additional features (super fine-pitch CRT, etc.).


As far as size, we also replaced a 32 inch 4x3 set and were amazed how huge the picture seemed compared to the approximate 29 inch 16x9 picture within the older set. You will also be sitting a little closer to the 960 since it is 26 inches deep.


----------



## bbbobbb

Ditto on ABT electronics, via agoraquest. I purchased mine this time last year for $1800 delivered, no tax. And yes they didn't pay attention to the "white glove" service and sent one guy. I made him go away and come back with another later that day. To the credit of ABT they apologized profusely and made sure that the delivery service understood that they screwed up.... ABT is totally authorized by SONY, I even called SONY to make sure. I would purchase again from ABT without hesitation. Spend some time at their website, check out their fish tank...


----------



## mapson

ABT is a great place to visit, you can't believe how huge it is, they have practically everything and the prices and service is much better than a BB or CC chain.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

A similar warranty policy is used by Yamaha. One must buy their products through an authorized dealer. While many others offer their equipment at discounted prices, Yamaha will not honor the warranty.


If my understanding is correct this does not mean no warranty but rather one provided by the seller instead of the manufacturer and that could mean use of technicians not affiliated with the manufactuer or experienced with the particular unit or receipt of the best quality replacement parts. And if the store goes out of business, then what?


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dean_KS* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have had my 960N for a few days, but have not had a chance to get deeply into it.
> 
> 
> I have two long range antennas in the attic pointed to cities east and west. I am quite impressed with the ability to pull in stations in HD.
> 
> 
> I can switch between the two antennae connected to the two RF connectors and that is good. But it appears that the one labeled "CABLE" does not tune in DHTV. Is that connector and tuner really different or is something else going on? Suggestions?
> 
> 
> (My old XBR's two RF inputs seemed to be identical.)



Well, I'm not at home now, so I can't run any tests. I suggest you swap the cables and note the results.


I'm pretty sure I tried this when I got my set--but I got one of the early ones in July, 20004, so that was a long time ago and I don't remember.


Mark


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> I got mine from ABT Electronics, through Agoraquest. They had a special deal with Agoraquest members. I think it was $1500. That was when this model was relativly new and was selling at full price. I've had mine for 1 year and 2 months and no problems at all. Only problem was when they delivered it. It was supposed to be white glove service, but they only sent 1 guy to deliver it.



original price was 2200, are you sure this was not after the price drop to 1899?



> Quote:
> I was curious about something tho, when looking at consumer reports latest ratings they show the XBR960 as only having 'good' sound quality while the XS model is rated with "Very good" sound , dont they both have the same speakers & subwoofer?



yeah they are the same, consumer reports is not a good source



> Quote:
> I can switch between the two antennae connected to the two RF connectors and that is good. But it appears that the one labeled "CABLE" does not tune in DHTV. Is that connector and tuner really different or is something else going on? Suggestions?



cable is for cable whether analogue or digital

antenna input is specifically for over the air analogue and digital


----------



## Pigeonest

Can you hook up a 34XBR960 to a PC ? I see those transcoders for sale, dose anyone use one? What is the quality?


----------



## drkashner




kny3twalker said:


> original price was 2200, are you sure this was not after the price drop to 1899?
> 
> 
> I actually still had my email from them. It was $1979. 10 % off in Sept. 2004.


----------



## kny3twalker

thats not 1500?


----------



## snatta




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *justsc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The only reason I would buy a set like the 960 from a little known, not authorized Sony reseller is if I had money to throw around.
> 
> 
> To me, anything like $1K or more is a serious investment. I want to be sure that if there's any problems, for any reasons, that my reseller will be there for me. Ony a Sony authorized reseller can offer that kind of assurance.
> 
> 
> Sets purchased from non-authorized resellers are referred to as "grey market" merchandise. It's not illegal, but buying from these outfits is of the highest risk.
> 
> 
> Sony is in no way obligated to honor its warranty when sold by one of these resellers, and will not do so almost 99.9% of the time. The reasons have already been stated above.
> 
> 
> Value goes much, much further than the price paid. Like I said, if you have $1,500 or more to throw around then, by all means, go grey market - because under such circumstances it would be a waste to pay full price from a authorized reseller.



What is up with the "grey market" reference? Where do you think many of these Sony non-authorized electronic stores are getting their Sony HDTVs from, Christopher Moltisanti's crew? I understand what many of you are saying that some places will try and rip you off by selling Sony HDTVs that aren't new and are altered in some way. But, I have seen no proof that Sony won't honor their warranty on a HDTV that is new and in its original box with a serial number that is not altered, and a official store receipt. Of course they aren't going to honor their warranty if you get stuck with a TV that wasn't factory new, and then you are going to have to deal with the store/person that ripped you off. Don't you have to register the serial number and your info with Sony once you buy the TV? Sony should then be able to track who sold this TV to you based on what store they delivered it to. If they are delivering their merchandise to a store to be sold, they have to honor their(Sony) warranty.


----------



## Ratman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *snatta* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What is up with the "grey market" reference?


 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grey_market 
http://www.answers.com/topic/grey-market 
http://www.absoluteastronomy.com/reference/grey_market 
http://www.reference.com/browse/wiki/Grey_market 
http://www.nemeng.com/leica/016e.shtml


----------



## snatta

^^


Thank you, I was getting grey market confused with black market. I never knew there were so many colors used to describe markets.


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> Don't you have to register the serial number and your info with Sony once you buy the TV?



no, they will get the serial number from you once you call CS


----------



## Pigeonest

I agree - People are upset because they got grossed from places like Crutchurwalletfield.


----------



## 2ntense

I simply can't decide if I want or need the N or not. Please help me decide! As someone said earlier, $1000 or more for anything is an investment. For this purchase, I agree.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

While I now understand that warranty costs are included in the price a product sells for and why it won't be honored if purchased through "grey market" retailers why are manufacturers allowed to dictate the price an item can be sold for in a "free-market" economy? All this does is eliminate the ability of competitive shopping by thye consumer (i.e., we get the "shaft" as usual). Of course there is a minimum amount a retailer will sell a product in order to make a profit.


Funny how our love of the 960 has turned this forum into an advanced course on business ethics!


----------



## Chris in SD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *2ntense* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I simply can't decide if I want or need the N or not. Please help me decide! As someone said earlier, $1000 or more for anything is an investment. For this purchase, I agree.



I can't decide either. There is no definitive answer/opinion of people who have used both, as that isn't likely.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joebxr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> "high number of problems..." WOW, this is interesting. I've been reading this forum for quite awhile trying to make a decision. Wading through all the posts, I came to the conclusion that the XBR960 was the best quality, most reliable set available. So, I went ahead and took the plunge. Have had the set for 2 weeks, and OUT OF THE BOX it is setup great and looks fantastic. Only thing I have done is change to PRO mode.
> 
> 
> I think it would be fair to say that any HDTV today needs tweeking, unlike the TV's of old, so there will be setup for all, somehow, someway. But i do not feel you've fairly evaluated the 960...or at least I have not seen enough posts to indicate getting the TV setup right is an issue. What I have seen is that people are really into this set and getting more involved in fine tweeking it, IMHO!





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What are you talking about? What kind of overstated FUD is this? Can you back this statement up with anything concrete?
> 
> 
> 
> [/b]



I have had 3 960s since August 2004 and 2 910s since December 2003. If you search back far enough you would have seen this. I have had 8 people in Broadcasting purchase them on my recommendations and they have gone through 17 960s total.


And the early posts were full of the issues about getting the lines straight on this TV. Perhaps you just don't notice it or have a clue?


I was responsible for working with several Engineers to getting rid of the green stripe on ABC HD Nationwide.


I work deal with CBS Engineers every week on issues with the CBS Network.


If you have any doubts of that, ask Moderators Dr. Don or Ken H.


I dare say I am much more qualified to speak on this issue than you and your so called FUD.


----------



## joebxr




HDTVFanAtic said:


> I have had 3 960s since August 2004 and 2 910s since December 2003. If you search back far enough you would have seen this. I have had 8 people in Broadcasting purchase them on my recommendations and they have gone through 17 960s total.
> 
> 
> And the early posts were full of the issues about getting the lines straight on this TV. Perhaps you just don't notice it or have a clue?
> 
> QUOTE]
> 
> 
> I definately have a clue, trust me. You have no clue as to what my expertise or knowledge is and I don't feel I need to document it for you or anyone else, so be careful with the smart-ass remarks..uncalled for on your part!
> 
> 
> You stated that there were a high number of problems with "setup" of this set. That is what I addressed. I do not find nor did I find that this was a issue that characterized this product to be deficient or unreliable..............I STAND BY MY ORIGINAL STATEMENT, (from my humble knowledge base). If you felt this was such a terrible TV, and you had 5 bad expereinces with the product line, why in the heck would you recommend them to friends?????????
> 
> 
> By the way, do you own any XBR's today and are the fine or are you experiencing issues. Maybe you could share your corrective action with us, or if you have posted that information previously, provide the link so I can read your information.
> 
> 
> Have a nice weekend!


----------



## bobloblaw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *2ntense* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I simply can't decide if I want or need the N or not. Please help me decide! As someone said earlier, $1000 or more for anything is an investment. For this purchase, I agree.



Can someone give me a quick description of the differences between the 960 and 960N?


----------



## Mathesar

Is it normal for the XBR960 to have very noticable "blooming" if the contrast is turned up to high? I was at best buy yesterday and noticed it on the display model ,of course they had the Picture setting literaly maxed out, anytime Text was displayed it would bloom pretty badly ,I was just curious because my 32HS510 doesnt behave this way if I max out the picture (Not that I ever run it that way normaly).


----------



## gigaguy

I never go by what I see on TVs at the store. Best Buy guy told me kids regularly come in carrying magnets to purposely mess up the tube sets.


Diff between 960 and 960N is screen coating, regarding glare, the 960 is natively a darker set from what I've heard. I have the 960, it's great.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is it normal for the XBR960 to have very noticable "blooming" if the contrast is turned up to high? I was at best buy yesterday and noticed it on the display model ,of course they had the Picture setting literaly maxed out,



Really not worth discussing. Contrast (aka "picture") should never be maxed out. In fact, DVE describes setting contrast low enough so that blooming specifically does NOT occur. That's the determinant. Nobody who's got their set adjusted reasonably would ever do this.


In the case of my XBR960, for 720p/1080i inputs set at Pro and with 31 as "dead-center", I have picture set at 35. This goes along brightness of 32 and color of 31, hue at 0 and sharpness at MIN. And naturally there is no blooming at all. Of course these settings are for my tastes, and correspond to other underlying tweaks in the service menu.


But most important, contrast/picture should NOT be set as high as you saw it in the store. Way to destroy the tube.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joebxr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I definately have a clue, trust me. You have no clue as to what my expertise or knowledge is and I don't feel I need to document it for you or anyone else, so be careful with the smart-ass remarks..uncalled for on your part!



Exactly. Well stated my friend.


----------



## Alan Gouger

To all, please keep the political comments off the forum.


----------



## synyster

I just got my 34xbr960 yesterday and i'm loving the set, but I have a few questions


1. I bought some componet cables for my gamecube yesterday and games look WAY better than on standard RCA cables. When I set my game to display in progressive mode, the TV doesnt allow me to go back to interlaced. Is it actually setting my TV to display progressive or just setting the game to progressive? The reason I ask is because I can set the TV to progressive and set the game to interlaced, but it still looks the same(still using component cables) while allowing ,me to switch the TV back and forth between interlaced and progressive


2. I must admit the standard def looks like garbage. Anyone sugget any settings to change to make it look a "little" better? If my tax return is nice this year I might just go ahead and get it calibrated, if not then I might be stuck using one of those Avia disks.


3. I dont have componet cables for my dvd player yet but I plan to get some soon. My question is do I have to set my TV for progressive in order for my DVD to play progressive? Or can I just set my DVD to play progressive without setting it on my TV?


4. Last question reguarding component cables. Is it better for me to buy seperate audio cables or should I just use the standard RCA audio cables that came with my DVD(without plugging in the yellow video cable of course)?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *synyster* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just got my 34xbr960 yesterday and i'm loving the set, but I have a few questions
> 
> 
> 1. I bought some componet cables for my gamecube yesterday and games look WAY better than on standard RCA cables. When I set my game to display in progressive mode, the TV doesnt allow me to go back to interlaced. Is it actually setting my TV to display progressive or just setting the game to progressive?



Setting the game.



> Quote:
> The reason I ask is because I can set the TV to progressive and set the game to interlaced, but it still looks the same(still using component cables) while allowing ,me to switch the TV back and forth between interlaced and progressive



I recommed you set the TV to CineMotion and leave it there forever.







Anything beyond that will be controlled from a DVD player, a game system, etc.


CineMotion does a nice 3:2 pulldown on film based 480i material. It's nice!





> Quote:
> 2. I must admit the standard def looks like garbage. Anyone sugget any settings to change to make it look a "little" better? If my tax return is nice this year I might just go ahead and get it calibrated, if not then I might be stuck using one of those Avia disks.



Avia is a great way to start.


YMMV, but go to Pro and Monitor right away for all applications. Color temp either neutral or warm. You'll want to experiment with this.


Contrast maybe in the mid 30's? Brightness? No more than the mid 40's or so. Sharpness...20 at most, thereabouts.


Try those ballpark settings for a starting point and see what you think. It's about what looks good to YOUR eyes first and foremost.




> Quote:
> 3. I dont have componet cables for my dvd player yet but I plan to get some soon. My question is do I have to set my TV for progressive in order for my DVD to play progressive? Or can I just set my DVD to play progressive without setting it on my TV?



No. Leave the TV on CineMotion and do everthing as you normally would with a DVD player, game system, etc.




> Quote:
> 4. Last question reguarding component cables. Is it better for me to buy seperate audio cables or should I just use the standard RCA audio cables that came with my DVD(without plugging in the yellow video cable of course)?




Those standard RCA's can be of suspect quality at times. You may want to consider getting some nicer cables after a point, once you're all settled in and satisifed.


Check out places like: http://www.ramelectronics.net/ and www.monoprice.com


----------



## Sonyboy

I have a sony kv-30hs510 that is isf calibrated and it looks great. I can get a brand new 960 for $1400. From the set I have would this be a noticable upgrade pq wise or just minimal. I've heard so many good reviews on the 960 I have thought about upgrading. Any feedback is appreciated.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sonyboy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a sony kv-30hs510 that is isf calibrated and it looks great. I can get a brand new 960 for $1400. From the set I have would this be a noticable upgrade pq wise or just minimal. I've heard so many good reviews on the 960 I have thought about upgrading. Any feedback is appreciated.



Right away, that extra 4 inches is going to be very appreciable for you. The Super Fine pitch tube at that size and for the price you're talking about? I'd do it!


Just make sure you're covered in terms of warranty, support, etc. etc.


----------



## Sonyboy

Thanks for the input


----------



## lsfrankel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joesteam* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have this TV for a year and love it. One problem is that there is no 'ON' light. Sometimes my kids turn off the cable box but leave the TV on, only way to tell is in a very dark room there will be a glow. Anyone know any tricks to show some type of on light in the front panel??
> 
> Thanks



I've got a band-aid for you. I find it incredulous that this TV has no Power light. I too have blank screen situations arising and not being able to tell if the TV is on or not. Anyone else have a Sony TV with no ON indicator or is this the norm?


You can go into the Setup Menu and set the i.LINK Standby to ON. Now, when the Power is Off, the red light is ON. Just the opposite of logical thinking but it will do the job. This is assuming you don't have a use for this feature. I've got five pieces of Sony gear and between i.LINK, Control S, Control A1ll, I've got nothing compatible enough to make use of them.


----------



## JOENAMCO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *justsc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The only reason I would buy a set like the 960 from a little known, not authorized Sony reseller is if I had money to throw around.
> 
> 
> To me, anything like $1K or more is a serious investment. I want to be sure that if there's any problems, for any reasons, that my reseller will be there for me. Ony a Sony authorized reseller can offer that kind of assurance.
> 
> 
> Sets purchased from non-authorized resellers are referred to as "grey market" merchandise. It's not illegal, but buying from these outfits is of the highest risk.
> 
> 
> Sony is in no way obligated to honor its warranty when sold by one of these resellers, and will not do so almost 99.9% of the time. The reasons have already been stated above.
> 
> 
> Value goes much, much further than the price paid. Like I said, if you have $1,500 or more to throw around then, by all means, go grey market - because under such circumstances it would be a waste to pay full price from a authorized reseller.



I bought a 960N from a "grey" and had Sony local service out to fix the HDMI input (not working) and they ordered a board and replaced it with no trouble, I paid less than 1550 with shipping last Nov.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JOENAMCO* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I bought a 960N from a "grey" and had Sony local service out to fix the HDMI input (not working) and they ordered a board and replaced it with no trouble, I paid less than 1550 with shipping last Nov.




That's good. You're very fortunate.


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Really not worth discussing. Contrast (aka "picture") should never be maxed out. In fact, DVE describes setting contrast low enough so that blooming specifically does NOT occur. That's the determinant. Nobody who's got their set adjusted reasonably would ever do this.
> 
> 
> In the case of my XBR960, for 720p/1080i inputs set at Pro and with 31 as "dead-center", I have picture set at 35. This goes along brightness of 32 and color of 31, hue at 0 and sharpness at MIN. And naturally there is no blooming at all. Of course these settings are for my tastes, and correspond to other underlying tweaks in the service menu.
> 
> 
> But most important, contrast/picture should NOT be set as high as you saw it in the store. Way to destroy the tube.



Yea I would never run it that way anyhow in fact I should've known better being I've been through the DVE disc







, I thought maybe something was wrong with the display model because the bloom was REALLY bad.


I went back to best buy tonight thinking they had the matching SU-34XBR3 tv stand in stock and on sale @ $150 (it was according to the online inventory check) but they didnt have it after all







The sales rep said their inventory is messed up online (go figure).


Anyhow while I was there I decided to adjust the XBR960 they had on display this time(it was still in Torch mode) ,First I put the TV in Pro mode, turned the Picture down from full blast to 50 and changed Color temp from Cool to Neutral, Wow what a differance it made and the bloom was completely gone (of course), The picture on this TV is definately in a class of its own. My brother was with me and was also very impressed. I checked the geometry in the Memory stick menu and it wasnt TO bad , no severe bends or bows, but overall it did have a lot of 'wavy' lines...but who knows how may times that tv has been moved around in the store. Cant wait for mine to arrive next week!


----------



## DMP2722

For those that own this set did anyone look at Plasma, LCD or the Sony SXRD sets? I currently have a 60" SXRD that I am not really happy with for SD programs, 50/50 for DVD and other issues as well; anyhow I was thinking of this set or possibly a plasma. I am not to concerned going from 60 to 34 screen size as I was watching a 26" LCD while waiting on the repair of my 64" Pioneer HD710 and was pretty happy. Unfortunately the HD710 will not be coming back and I need something. The Sony 60 SXRD seemed like the correct choice based on all reviews but I am thinking that this CRT set will give me the best of all worlds great HD and equally good SD and DVD PQ. Any input...


Thanks


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yea I would never run it that way anyhow in fact I should've known better being I've been through the DVE disc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I thought maybe something was wrong with the display model because the bloom was REALLY bad.
> 
> 
> I went back to best buy tonight thinking they had the matching SU-34XBR3 tv stand in stock and on sale @ $150 (it was according to the online inventory check) but they didnt have it after all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sales rep said their inventory is messed up online (go figure).
> 
> 
> Anyhow while I was there I decided to adjust the XBR960 they had on display this time(it was still in Torch mode) ,First I put the TV in Pro mode, turned the Picture down from full blast to 50 and changed Color temp from Cool to Neutral, Wow what a differance it made and the bloom was completely gone (of course), The picture on this TV is definately in a class of its own. My brother was with me and was also very impressed. I checked the geometry in the Memory stick menu and it wasnt TO bad , no severe bends or bows, but overall it did have a lot of 'wavy' lines...but who knows how may times that tv has been moved around in the store. Cant wait for mine to arrive next week!



Mathersar


While you can't wait for your 960 to arrive next week, this is nothing compared to the agony you'll go through the day it is to be delivered LOL. If you're like me, you'll be consistantly looking out the window for the delivery truck! But not to worry, it will arrive and you will love it!


Many on this forum have recommended settings, including myself. They also recommended the HD set-up program broadcast on INHD at 7:00 AM each Saturday morning. I finally recorded it on my HD DVR and was able to make some more adjustments to my 960 (even after six months) and these are what I use for HD (connected via HDMI):


MODE: PRO

PICTURE: 27

BRIGHTNESS: 24

COLOR: 33

HUE: R5 (toward red)

SHARPNESS: 23

CLEAR EDGE: Medium

COLOR AXIS: Monitor

MODE MEMORY: On


I was happy with my picture quality before using this and my settings in Pro beforehand were: 32, 22, 38, R5, 36 so there were slight changes in picutre, brightness, color and big one for sharpness.


Different settings might be necessary for DVD. I've used the THX optomizer found on many titles for setting through component cables. These are used for my DVD recorder: Pro, 35, 32, 40, R2, 31, Medium, Cinamotion (DRC), Monitor, Mode Memory on and R87/C85 on the BRC Pallete. I also have a stand-alone player and the settings are slightly different.


VHS - PRO, 31, 27, 35, R2, 25, Neutral, Medium, Cinamotion, Monitor, Memory On, R87/C85 for BRC.


You can use these as reference points but as everyone will attest, the bottom line is what YOU find best.


Again, congratulations on your new set and hope you don't strain your neck to much waiting for that delivery truck! Sorry you were unable to find the matching stand - we have it and it looks beautiful. Just remember the set is 200 pounds so be sure it is placed on something durable enough to withstand the weight.


Joe


----------



## Pigeonest

Looks like gray is the way!


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pigeonest* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looks like gray is the way!



What are you talking about?





and from a page ago:



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pigeonest* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I agree - People are upset because they got grossed from places like Crutchurwalletfield.






Please stop trolling this thread with your useless and senseless threadcrap. You don't know what you're talking about.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pigeonest* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looks like gray is the way!



My grey market 960 blew up into a million pieces when I hit the on button. I still have glass shards in my arms and legs. Thank goodness my homeowners insurance paid for my neighbors fence when the back of the TV went through the wall and took out a 6 foot section of stockade.


When I got out the hospital I went to my local B&M and got one. I'll never buy grey again.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My grey market 960 blew up into a million pieces when I hit the on button. I still have glass shards in my arms and legs. Thank goodness my homeowners insurance paid for my neighbors fence when the back of the TV went through the wall and took out a 6 foot section of stockade.
> 
> 
> When I got out the hospital I went to my local B&M and got one. I'll never buy grey again.




I hope he's true to his word and follows his "gray is the way" mantra.


Hopefully, he'll have an experience like yours. That's the only way some people learn.


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> Looks like gray is the way!



I just have to ask, are you an adult? or are you a child playing online.

cause no one would say such foolish comments if they had any common sense


we all paid what we thought was a good price at the time, and I doubt many of us paid MSRP without having to look toward the grey market, where there is a chance of being ripped off


then TVs just get cheaper the longer they have been around


even in the grey market you could not find a XBR960 a year ago for 1200 dollars much less 1500 dollars

the MRSP was originally 2199


then encouraging people from unscrupulous resellers online, makes me wonder if you are not one of these resellers

cause no one in their right mind would encourage such behavior with all the bad reviews for these grey market resellers


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DMP2722* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For those that own this set did anyone look at Plasma, LCD or the Sony SXRD sets? I currently have a 60" SXRD that I am not really happy with for SD programs, 50/50 for DVD and other issues as well; anyhow I was thinking of this set or possibly a plasma. I am not to concerned going from 60 to 34 screen size as I was watching a 26" LCD while waiting on the repair of my 64" Pioneer HD710 and was pretty happy. Unfortunately the HD710 will not be coming back and I need something. The Sony 60 SXRD seemed like the correct choice based on all reviews but I am thinking that this CRT set will give me the best of all worlds great HD and equally good SD and DVD PQ. Any input...
> 
> 
> Thanks



I did. I waffled between the 960, the 42" A10 and a few plasmas. I have not personally seen a better set (when it comes to PQ) than the 960 (esp. after getting it calibrated). We have a 50" plasma at work so i see that quite a bit. Regarding PQ, it doesn't come close.


I feel SD on the 960 is quite good, significantly better than the other technologies (e.g., plasma). However, it is only as good as the source fed. Note that there are just some channels on some systems that look awful. Most of my SD viewing has been on the HD or digital channels and I've been generally pleased.


I can only describe DVD viewing as beyond fantastic, and this with a measley regular sony player feeding over component cable, no less. My understanding is that several other owners have gone with good upconverting players and feel the quality improvement is significant.


My only concern would be size vs. viewing distance based on what you have posted. Quite a bit on that topic if you search this thread, but I have found 7' to be the ideal distance for me. There are a few downsides (highlighted throughout the thread), but the bottom line is that if PQ is your top decision driver... this is the set for you.


Good luck!


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pigeonest* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Crutchurwalletfield



I think we have have intellegent discussion around sources for this set without resorting to pop shots. I for one, appreciated hearing about people's experience with different vendors, when i was weighing my options. Lots of good info in this thread on that. Honest accounts from a large group of people getting this set from different sources can be a real help to future purchasers.


No need to try "dis" a vendor. The bottom line is that you don't stay in business as long as Crutchfield has, accidenatlly.


----------



## avnstf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I can only describe DVD viewing as beyond fantastic, and this with a measley regular sony player feeding over component cable, no less. My understanding is that several other owners have gone with good upconverting players and feel the quality improvement is significant.
> 
> 
> Good luck!



I would have thought that the 960, as the high-end Sony CRT, would do a good job of upconverting...I know that on my Sony 32 incher, its up conversion of DVD material from a progressive scan DVD results in a PQ that is very slighty less than HD quality (and often indistinguishable, since HD programming varies)...


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *avnstf* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would have thought that the 960, as the high-end Sony CRT, would do a good job of upconverting...



It does!



> Quote:
> I know that on my Sony 32 incher, its up conversion of DVD material from a progressive scan DVD results in a PQ that is very slighty less than HD quality (and often indistinguishable, since HD programming varies)...



The XBR960 does a really nice job upconverting.


njt was talking about those of us who bought fairly nice to higher end upconverting players and we saw even MORE PQ improvement.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hey guys,


Please be careful with criticisms because we already lost this thread once because postings were turning into personal attacks.


I also posted the incorrect settings for my 960 after using the INHD setting guide. I posted one of several experimental adjustments forgetting I continued on the other side of the paper LOL!


So for anyone interested, my actual setting for HD using HDMI is:


PRO, Picture-34, Brightness-22, Color-31, Hue-R5, Sharpness-30, Temperature-Neutal, Color Axix-Monitor (please don't think I was satisified with a picture set to just 27 LOL).


Regarding CRT vs. Plasma vs. LCD, I think LCD technology still needs to improve on lack level and Plasma, whose picture quality is closer to CRT, needs to resolve the burn-in and fading problem. Both formats however lack depth perception which gives a feel of a 3-D effect which the 960 certainly does.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I posted the incorrect settings for my 960 after using the INHD setting guide. I posted one of several experimental adjustments forgetting I continued on the other side of the paper LOL!
> 
> 
> So for anyone interested, my actual setting for HD using HDMI is:...



Did you know you can EDIT your original post?


Just in case you didn't know that, you can correct anything you've posted on this forum by pushing the "EDIT" button at the bottom of your post, so that anyone who sees it subsequent to your correction will not see the unintended incorrect data but will now see your corrected data. Obviously anyone who's already seen and read the original has already seen the original, but EDIT certainly is a way to fix things that you know you don't want to leave that way.


I think you have about 3-5 minutes following your original post to EDIT without any visible indication that you've edited (to handle corrections discovered after reading the just-posted comments instead of proof-reading and correcting before pushing SUBMIT, caused by ordinary typos, simple oversights and omissions, spelling errors, etc.). After that, any EDIT will automatically show an "edited by... on..." annotation at the bottom of the post.


And of course you're free to add your own author's annotation, such as "EDIT: ..." to describe what you did, when, or why.


----------



## birdies

Hello,I recently purchased the 34xbr960 and I am really enjoying it. Out of the box I did not notice any geometry problems. If there are any they must be very slight. My question is if the TV does not have any of these bowing problems out of the box is it something that could show up later or is this something usually only seen initially? Great TV.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Did you know you can EDIT your original post?
> 
> 
> Just in case you didn't know that, you can correct anything you've posted on this forum by pushing the "EDIT" button at the bottom of your post, so that anyone who sees it subsequent to your correction will not see the unintended incorrect data but will now see your corrected data. Obviously anyone who's already seen and read the original has already seen the original, but EDIT certainly is a way to fix things that you know you don't want to leave that way.
> 
> 
> I think you have about 3-5 minutes following your original post to EDIT without any visible indication that you've edited (to handle corrections discovered after reading the just-posted comments instead of proof-reading and correcting before pushing SUBMIT, caused by ordinary typos, simple oversights and omissions, spelling errors, etc.). After that, any EDIT will automatically show an "edited by... on..." annotation at the bottom of the post.
> 
> 
> And of course you're free to add your own author's annotation, such as "EDIT: ..." to describe what you did, when, or why.



Thanks for the tip - I'm sure the opportunity for its use will come quickly LOL.

- Joe


----------



## Fellfromgrace

Sorry, I know I made a seperate thread for this but no one seems to even read it, much less reply. So afterwards I saw this was the "official" thread of the tv so I descided to post my story here to see if I could get help. Thanks guys










Ok, I have alittle short story to go along with this b/c I'm not sure what to do. Any help and or suggestions would really be greatly appreciated.


About 3 months ago I went to Tweeter and purchased a Sony XS955 (I believe thats the correct model #) for $1200, it was used, however I was told b/c that price it was a steal. Anyway I got it home and it had a few problems. One the darkness of the set was horrible, I mean ANYTHING that had shadows whether it be watching a DVD, playing video games or watching digital cable was just terrible. Completely black, you couldnt see anything. It could be fixed somewhat by adjusting the brightness, but you had to set the brightness extremely high thus making everything else way to bright and kind of "washed out" looking or getting pixalated like.


Another problem this set had (and sorry I dont kow very many techinical terms) was about 3 or 4 "dead lines" I like to call them. These were very thin completely black horizontal lines that went across the tv from one side to the other. It was like those lines of the tv had not been turned on, no matter what was being displayed on the tv, those would always be black. They were VERY thin as in you would really have to look for them in order to notice it. But since I knew they were there I always did.


Finally, every now and then (and only during certain times) I would notice a very weird red looking vertical line that would go down the middle of the tv. I really have no idea how to explain this but I think it might actually be the "cables" fault as opposed to the tv. It would show up only during different random scenes on TV.


Anyway, moving on, Tweeter was very nice about this and let me have this deal. They said bring that tv back and give us 400 more dollars, bringing my total to arround 1600 and we will give you a brand new Sony 34 XBR the "cadillac" of Sony Tv's the man said. Well anyway I said "ok"


Heres where the problem starts again. They call me up and say "well sir Sony is cutting back on these tv's so we dont have a new XBR ANYWHERE throughout our entire company to send you, so we would have to give you another used one, but its still good and you will still have your 5 year warrenty.


Well I said "ok" like a moron maybe?!?!


The tv gets to my house, I plug it in, fire it up and now it has ALL of the same problems. I mean its terrible it made me sick I feel like I've tossed 1600 bucks to someone just to screw me over.


But my question to you guys is, is this my fault? Is it possible (my house is alittle older) that maybe the tv's arent getting enough power to display properly? I was told by someone there that the Monster Cable Surge protector that cost like 150 bucks would give my tv the correct ammount of power it needed. Is this true? Could it be something in my house thats messing these things up, or is all thay a bunch of bull? No other tv in my house has any problems (none of them are HDTV though)


What should I do? I was thinking about trying to get my money back and going to Best Buy to buy a brand new 32 inch LCD HDTV, the Samsung LNR28


----------



## snatta

Well the people at Tweeter got you good. No way I would've paid $1200 for a used xs955 3 months ago, or even $1600 for a *new* XBR now. I find it hard to believe they couldn't order you a new XBR from Sony, even if they don't want to stock them in store anymore. I would try and get a full refund of your $1600 from Tweeter and return the used XBR. If you can't get your money back at least a Sony tech should fix the XBR since you have a 5 year warranty. Is Tweeter an authorized Sony dealer, or are they consider a "grey market" dealer?


----------



## Fellfromgrace

I dont really know what a "grey market" dealer means. I can only assume they are an authorized Sony Dealer.


But you dont think its possible its my fault at all? just crappy tv's? and if I can get my money back what would you suggest for arroune 1500 to 1600 bucks?


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> Is Tweeter an authorized Sony dealer, or are they consider a "grey market" dealer?



you still are not done, are you?


got any potentially helpful information for others or you are still just going to keep spouting out your crap?


cause personally I sick of your BS


the tone of your post have been nasty ever seen you first posted in here

and even when given helpful information with proof to backup the claims made, you come off snide and inconsiderate


I do not know if you have been lurking for a while before posting in here, but maybe thats what you should go back to doing


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fellfromgrace* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Another problem this set had (and sorry I dont kow very many techinical terms) was about 3 or 4 "dead lines" I like to call them. These were very thin completely black horizontal lines that went across the tv from one side to the other. It was like those lines of the tv had not been turned on, no matter what was being displayed on the tv, those would always be black. They were VERY thin as in you would really have to look for them in order to notice it. But since I knew they were there I always did.



If I follow this description correctly, I think you are talking not about something which is the "absence" of a scan line from the electron gun of the tube. Rather, these are truly and actually very very thin wires which run horizontally across the back of the glass. The wires actually press the "aperture grill" (which you can't see) up against the back of the glass and hold it there.


These very fine wires are visible on EVERY Sony Trinitron tube made... going back what, 13 years or so? Whether it's a PC CRT of 15" up to 22", or a TV CRT right up to the XS955 and XBR families of Trinitron's... these very fine wires are present, and visible. They are unique to the technology used to build Trinitron tubes, and are sort of a "fingerprint" that you have indeed purchased a CRT device that uses a Sony Trinitron... the cadillac of consumer tubes.


But they're not visible if you don't sit 10" away! In other words, yes, they are clearly present and if you have a white or light background so that the black wires contrast against them, and move right up about a foot from the screen and look for them, there's no question you can obviously see them.


However with normal moving content on the screen, and certainly with dark content in the areas where the wires are located, and obviously sitting back at normal viewing distance, I would have to say that the wires are 100% invisible.


You are not alone in observing these lines. My guess is many millions of Trinitron tube owners (including myself), in various incarnations, have observed and questioned these... initially (but falsely) believing something's wrong with the set. They are all right in that the lines ARE visible under just the right viewing circumstances, and wrong in that there might be something wrong with the set. I assure you, all is well... even if you can't imagine that could be true.


My advice to you is just to move back from your 10" viewing distance. The 34XBR960 should be more appropriately watched from a distance of perhaps 5'-7' for maximum viewing pleasure. In my opinion, at that distance there are no situations in which those wires can possibly be seen... white background or not. Certainly not with anything other than a white freeze-frame on the screen can you possibly see these tiny lines at normal viewing distance. With normal motion, it's just impossible.


As far as "tuning up" your XBR960 for maximum viewing pleasure, well I agree that you might have been better off doing some online shopping if Tweeter couldn't deliver a "brand new in a box" Sony. I, personally, would not care to take someone else's return...for whatever reason, and even if there's nothing wrong at all with the set (except that maybe the previous buyer didn't know how to or didn't want to adjust anything using either the user-menu or service-menu, and felt the out-of-the-box state of the XBR960 was unacceptable).


However the set is under Sony warranty, so you should call Sony to get a free factory tech out to your house to see if it's just a matter of adjustment to address your other complaints, or whether there's truly something wrong with the set that justifies replacing it. Or, you could just return the set to Tweeter (assuming they will accept it back without requiring you to go through all of this) and shop elsewhere... online or in a real store.


Seems like the current going online price for a brand new-in-a-box 34XBR960, not including sales tax if any, is either around $1200 + $300 for insured white-glove delivery, of around $1450-$1500 for "free shipping", if you shop around. At least that's what appears to be the case, at DigitalCraze.com online and at ABT in Chicago (an actual giant appliance/TV/electronics store with great prices).


----------



## snatta




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fellfromgrace* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I dont really know what a "grey market" dealer means. I can only assume they are an authorized Sony Dealer.
> 
> 
> But you dont think its possible its my fault at all? just crappy tv's? and if I can get my money back what would you suggest for arroune 1500 to 1600 bucks?



There are links to what "grey market" means a page or two back in this thread. I don't believe it is your fault, but that is just my *opinion* . Unfortunately a few people on this board who think they run it, can't handle other people's opinions. Like I posted earlier, I would try and return the set and get a full refund. You should be able to get a brand new 34xbr960 for under $1500 now. If you read the last 25 pages of this thread you will find out some people had to call Sony for a service call to fix minor problems and many also got their set calibrated. You can do this also if you decide to keep the set you currently have, but you will have to pay extra to have your set calibrated.


----------



## joebxr

I agree on the RETURN and REFUND, unless they can provide you with a NEW NEVER USED, NOT RETURNED 960. Tweeter is pretty reputable, and they should take care of you. Push the issue with Manager if needed...remember, you are the customer and they need you.


----------



## PeteH579




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *birdies* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello,I recently purchased the 34xbr960 and I am really enjoying it. Out of the box I did not notice any geometry problems. If there are any they must be very slight. My question is if the TV does not have any of these bowing problems out of the box is it something that could show up later or is this something usually only seen initially? Great TV.



I enjoyed mine right out of the box also.


The imperfections that might show up later are usually due to reading about something and then looking for it.










Enjoy


----------



## greenland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PeteH579* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I enjoyed mine right out of the box also.
> 
> 
> The imperfections that might show up later are usually due to reading about something and then looking for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy



Precisely: If it ain't broke, don't go looking for reasons to fix it.


Some people would not stop until they found an off-putting blemish on the small toe of Scarlett Johansen.


----------



## birdies

Thanks PeteH579!!


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mathersar
> 
> 
> While you can't wait for your 960 to arrive next week, this is nothing compared to the agony you'll go through the day it is to be delivered LOL. If you're like me, you'll be consistantly looking out the window for the delivery truck! But not to worry, it will arrive and you will love it!
> 
> 
> Many on this forum have recommended settings, including myself. They also recommended the HD set-up program broadcast on INHD at 7:00 AM each Saturday morning. I finally recorded it on my HD DVR and was able to make some more adjustments to my 960 (even after six months) and these are what I use for HD (connected via HDMI):
> 
> 
> MODE: PRO
> 
> PICTURE: 27
> 
> BRIGHTNESS: 24
> 
> COLOR: 33
> 
> HUE: R5 (toward red)
> 
> SHARPNESS: 23
> 
> CLEAR EDGE: Medium
> 
> COLOR AXIS: Monitor
> 
> MODE MEMORY: On
> 
> 
> I was happy with my picture quality before using this and my settings in Pro beforehand were: 32, 22, 38, R5, 36 so there were slight changes in picutre, brightness, color and big one for sharpness.
> 
> 
> Different settings might be necessary for DVD. I've used the THX optomizer found on many titles for setting through component cables. These are used for my DVD recorder: Pro, 35, 32, 40, R2, 31, Medium, Cinamotion (DRC), Monitor, Mode Memory on and R87/C85 on the BRC Pallete. I also have a stand-alone player and the settings are slightly different.
> 
> 
> VHS - PRO, 31, 27, 35, R2, 25, Neutral, Medium, Cinamotion, Monitor, Memory On, R87/C85 for BRC.
> 
> 
> You can use these as reference points but as everyone will attest, the bottom line is what YOU find best.
> 
> 
> Again, congratulations on your new set and hope you don't strain your neck to much waiting for that delivery truck! Sorry you were unable to find the matching stand - we have it and it looks beautiful. Just remember the set is 200 pounds so be sure it is placed on something durable enough to withstand the weight.
> 
> 
> Joe



Thanks for the info! I'll be sure to try the settings from your updated post. I decided to go with a Z-Line tv stand being it has more room for my consoles, Its actually very nice and didn't take long to assemble, according to the manual the top shelf is rated at 310 lbs. ,Circuit city's website incorrectly states 260lbs. (which would of been fine as well).


Does anyone here use or can recommend a Component video switcher? I've got 5 devices that could benefit from component inputs (Gamecube/PS2/Xbox/Xbox360/DVD Player) but of course the XBR960 only has 2 component inputs , Thanks.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone here use or can recommend a Component video switcher? I've got 5 devices that could benefit from component inputs (Gamecube/PS2/Xbox/Xbox360/DVD Player) but of course the XBR960 only has 2 component inputs.



You'll get several common recommendations on this one, but I went with a Zektor HDS4 several years ago. They have newer models now (HDS4.1 and HDS4.2), if you need their additional features. The Zektor is nice in that it supports either optical or coax digital audio input on any of its four inputs (of course you must choose only one or the other for each input), but it transcodes either digital audio input to feed BOTH optical AND coax digital audio output simultaneously (to feed any receiver).


I have my 480p DVD player feeding INPUT5. I have my other 720p/1080i input sources (two D-VHS VCR's, one 6412 DVR) going through the Zektor into INPUT6. That allows me to tweak INPUT5 for DVD source, and INPUT6 for true HD source. The component video output from the Zektor goes to INPUT6 on the Sony and the digital audio output of the Zektor goes to my receiver.


I use the fourth input on my Zektor as a spare or multi-purpose input, either for HD output from my PC (from ATI Radeon 9800 Pro via DVI-to-component adapter) when I need to, or as a spare digital audio input (e.g. the optical digital audio output from the XBR960's ATSC tuner can connect here, or the coax digital audio output from the Audigy/2 sounce card in my PC can also connect here).


These Zektor boxes are not cheap, but they are extremely high quality and as I've described have great flexibility (they can even be used to pass through analog L/R stereo audio from each input as well... not just digital audio). Many AVS forum members have them.


----------



## synyster

Questions


1) The HD Cable Box I'm getting only has DVI, is better for me to buy an HDMI/DVI adapter with a HDMI cable, or just a HDMI/DVI cable. Will there be any quality loss using either of those 2 methods?


2) I thought I read somewhere that using vivid mode is bad for your TV? Is there a reason why(I'm a new owner).


----------



## gigaguy

1) Don't know.

2). Vivid is too overblown and bright for my likes, plus it burns out the tube faster.


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You'll get several common recommendations on this one, but I went with a Zektor HDS4 several years ago. They have newer models now (HDS4.1 and HDS4.2), if you need their additional features. The Zektor is nice in that it supports either optical or coax digital audio input on any of its four inputs (of course you must choose only one or the other for each input), but it transcodes either digital audio input to feed BOTH optical AND coax digital audio output simultaneously (to feed any receiver)..



The Zektor HDS4 looks ideal as I would also benefit from the optical inputs, Thanks for the suggestion










The delivery guy called today and said they'll have my tv here on Thursday,I cant wait


----------



## epicbloodline

hows the xbox360 on this set?





ANYONE


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *epicbloodline* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> hows the xbox360 on this set?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ANYONE




For probably the millionth time now: Amazing, just like everything else.


----------



## epicbloodline




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For probably the millionth time now: Amazing, just like everything else.










shut up


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *epicbloodline* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shut up


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *epicbloodline* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> hows the xbox360 on this set?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ANYONE



Im assuming excellent considering how good it looks on my Sony 32HS510 hdtv(besides the fact its a 4:3 set), Ill let ya know this thursday after I get it setup.


----------



## triumph66




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For probably the millionth time now: Amazing, just like everything else.



millionth to the power of infinity


I don't understand how people constantly overlook the "Search this thread" option.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *synyster* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Questions
> 
> 
> 1) The HD Cable Box I'm getting only has DVI, is better for me to buy an HDMI/DVI adapter with a HDMI cable, or just a HDMI/DVI cable. Will there be any quality loss using either of those 2 methods?
> 
> 
> 2) I thought I read somewhere that using vivid mode is bad for your TV? Is there a reason why(I'm a new owner).



Synyster,


We used an adapter because our HD cable box only had a DVI output. When we went to HD DVR we removed the adapter and continued using the HDMI cable. Suggest you do same because an adapter goes for about $20 and you will not need to purchase another cable (which will cost more than $20) and disconnect the old one from behind the set (should you decide to rent a HD-DVR).


You will also need to connect analog cables to your TV for audio, while, at the same time, using either an optical or coaxil cable to your digital receiver to hear 5.1. DVI only carries video while HDMI carries both video and audio.


I agree, Vivid is way too strong, even when adjustments are low the picture is still too bright and washed out.


----------



## regor13

I have noticed that many people have recommended the PRO setting. I would like to see if others like myself are in the minority with the Standard setting as the Pro setting is way to dark. Either everyone else has a very dark room or sits really close to their set. Ours is in our living room and about 8- 10 feet from most seating areas. Or there is something else going on with my set? I have not had the set recalibrated as PQ is GREAT!


----------



## Dean_KS

I had posted earlier and was informed that the second RF input (cable) could not receive over the air HDTV.


There are two long range antennae in the attic. Combining the two with a splitter killed most HDTV stations. The analog stations were not much different as far as multipath and phase issues. Got the $35 RadioShack remote control AB switcher and that works great. Used the add digital stations function on the menu and picked up the stations that were not available with prior setups.


Lots of HDTV stations which exceeds expectations.


Only downside is yet another remote...


----------



## mortaldivine




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *regor13* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have noticed that many people have recommended the PRO setting. I would like to see if others like myself are in the minority with the Standard setting as the Pro setting is way to dark. Either everyone else has a very dark room or sits really close to their set. Ours is in our living room and about 8- 10 feet from most seating areas. Or there is something else going on with my set? I have not had the set recalibrated as PQ is GREAT!



You still have to adjust the contrast/brightness when using pro mode.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *triumph66* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> millionth to the power of infinity
> 
> 
> I don't understand how people constantly overlook the "Search this thread" option.




Laziness. They don't feel like it.


They'd rather be spoon fed everything, even if it's already been answered literally as many times as you've stated.


Want a good laugh and easy example? Do a search for xs955 vs. xbr960 and see how many threads and posts you pull up.


----------



## Chorgey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *regor13* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have noticed that many people have recommended the PRO setting. I would like to see if others like myself are in the minority with the Standard setting as the Pro setting is way to dark. Either everyone else has a very dark room or sits really close to their set. Ours is in our living room and about 8- 10 feet from most seating areas. Or there is something else going on with my set? I have not had the set recalibrated as PQ is GREAT!



I use the Standard mode for watching my HDMI input 7 which is the Satellite Dish.

I have Pro setup for one of the component (input 5) for the DVD, everything else is set to Standard as well. Then again, I have the 960, not the 960N so I guess it is somewhat darker in the first place.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pigeonest* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thought someone here might be interested - Sony Outlet is selling the KD-34XS955 factory refurbished for $699 + 5 year in home waranty for$89 . I don't know what color you all consider this market? (maybee a bluish-grey with a hint of violet) lol - but don't think you can beat that deal. Oh yeah the 34xbr960 is $899 but my store was all out.
> http://www.sonystyle.com/intershopro...tletoffers.pdf
> 
> 
> Retail is for suckers!



Our once a day troll post of bull*** from you? I guess we were due for it.


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> Quote:
> 
> Originally Posted by Pigeonest
> 
> Thought someone here might be interested - Sony Outlet is selling the KD-34XS955 factory refurbished for $699 + 5 year in home waranty for$89 . I don't know what color you all consider this market? (maybee a bluish-grey with a hint of violet) lol - but don't think you can beat that deal. Oh yeah the 34xbr960 is $899 but my store was all out.
> http://www.sonystyle.com/intershopr...utletoffers.pdf
> 
> 
> Retail is for suckers!
> 
> 
> 
> Our once a day troll post of bull*** from you? I guess we were due for it.



this is the only forum in which Alan allowing pricing discussion

so why don't you show a little integrity when posting pricing info


and I am tending to agree, you seem to be more a troll than anything with such comments

afterall these are used refurbed TVs not new


no one here would suggest buying a refurbed model, much less buying a refurbed model at MSRP


----------



## joebxr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pigeonest* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thought someone here might be interested - Sony Outlet is selling the KD-34XS955 factory refurbished for $699 + 5 year in home waranty for$89 . I don't know what color you all consider this market? (maybee a bluish-grey with a hint of violet) lol - but don't think you can beat that deal. Oh yeah the 34xbr960 is $899 but my store was all out.
> http://www.sonystyle.com/intershopro...tletoffers.pdf
> 
> 
> Retail is for suckers!



Okay, I admit, I'm confused....the title of this thread is "The Official KD-34xbr960 Thread"...so what does a refurb XS955 have to do with that????


And maybe check this thread...
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...08#post7184108 


PS - Call me ONE HAPPY SUCKER...'cause I didn't buy at MSRP, but I bought below REFURB!!!!


----------



## Vortex-IV

Sorry if this is a well known fact, but I was shocked (happily) to discover my 960 plays and monitors the HD PAL signal from my HVR-Z1U via iLink. I had not seen this ability mentioned anywhere before, but it's incredible -- this set is unbelievable! I will try the component inputs next.


Does anyone know, is it truly displaying the 50Hz signal, or is it converting on-the-fly 50Hz to 59.94Hz?


Still in shock...


V-IV


----------



## KMR

I was planning on getting a 30XS955, but I noticed the 960N on Crutchfield. I am intrigued by Crutchfield's "No payments, no interest for 18 months" offer. Has anyone actually bought a TV using this payment method? Does the offer hold true, and how exactly does it work?


Also, my entertainment center has 40 inches of width for a TV, and the 960 is listed as 39 1/4 inches wide. Is this cutting it too close? Maybe I should just stick with a 30-incher?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KMR* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was planning on getting a 30XS955, but I noticed the 960N on Crutchfield. I am intrigued by Crutchfield's "No payments, no interest for 18 months" offer. Has anyone actually bought a TV using this payment method? Does the offer hold true, and how exactly does it work?



Exactly like it says it does. It will be a Crutchfield credit card of sorts, and the terms will be just like that. Pay it off in 18 months and you're clean and scott free.



> Quote:
> Also, my entertainment center has 40 inches of width for a TV, and the 960 is listed as 39 1/4 inches wide. Is this cutting it too close? Maybe I should just stick with a 30-incher?



Whew. Very close. You can get away with it by the skin of your teeth. If you can get the 34 inches, you're going to love it, but this makes me a little nervous for you.


If you go through Crutchfield, they'll have the TV delivered and installed wherever you want it.


If the TV does not fit, and you cannot make a setup for it, you have 30 days return/exhcange no questions asked.


Obviously it won't even take you but a matter of minutes to figure out if that TV is going to make it or not.


If it doesn't fit, those delivery guys will probably take it right out of there and you send it back.


----------



## KMR

Thanks for the reply, QoB.


This is going to tear me apart from the inside trying to decide on which set to get now. If I only knew the width thing wouldn't cause any actual problems for me.


Edit: Q, I think I have read before from one of your posts that you have some kind of

"frictionless" doohickey underneath your TV stand? Was that you? Or maybe I'm thinking of someone else?


Anyway, supposedly there is some king of device you can put underneath the feet of heavy things (furniture, etc.) that allows said heavy thing to move fairly freely across the floor, as simple as sliding it around. I've seen these things on a TV commercial before, but for the life of me, I can't remember what they're called.


Anyone know?


----------



## Ladd

Re: 40" place in entertainment center vs 39.25" width of the TV


To paraphrase the immortal words Ernie Capadino, talent scout for the Rockford Peaches: "Well, that would be more, wouldn't it?"










And if it will help you sleep better tonight, the 960 (no N) is only 39 1/8" wide, not 39 1/4...


----------



## KMR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Re: 40" place in entertainment center vs 39.25" width of the TV
> 
> 
> To paraphrase the immortal words Ernie Capadino, talent scout for the Rockford Peaches: "Well, that would be more, wouldn't it?"



True.










But something THAT close may be a little too close for comfort. And, honestly, now that I think about it, I've not even sure if the space is an _actual_ 40 inches. That's just what the box said. It may be 39 and some wierd fraction for all I know. I need to find a tape measure.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KMR* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> But something THAT close may be a little too close for comfort.



The width of the TV either fits in the width of the entertainment center slot or it doesn't, but as you've noted, time to measure and get a real number.


If it does fit, then your biggest concern* is space above and behind so the set will get decent convective cooling. The widest part of the set is about 2" back from the very front (albeit only wider by about 1/8"), then the case rapidly narrows around the neck of the tube itself. So there is lots of space on the sides for airflow, but the hot air has to go somewhere and UP is its favorite direction.


Note -- the depth of the set is a full 24", so I hope the back of the entertainment center (or better yet, the wall) is at least that far back from the front.



*your other "biggest concern" should be the just-shy-of-200 pounds weight of the TV added to the weight of all the other AV components to be held by the entertainment center. Will the center take that total weight? Will it tip over if a child pulls on it? Got earthquakes?


----------



## avnstf

There's also the little issue of reasonable access to the TV connectors when you need it...


----------



## KMR

I understand a lot of your comments; those are severe things that need some thought.


Though, earthquakes aren't a problem in my area (at least, none in my lifetime, that I'm aware of). There is a 7-year-old child who visits us every so often, but she generally knows not to touch my stuff. If she did, I would have no hestitation to instigate an eye for an eye....


Also, I found some things called "sliders" on Amazon last night, and proceeded to order 'em. They are able to be placed under the legs of heavy furniture to make it easy to slide around. With these in place, access to rear inputs shouldn't be a big deal. All I would have to do is slide the entertainment center forward a few feet.


Edit: Also, my entertainment center is able to hold 250 pounds on the TV spot alone, so weight isn't really an issue.


----------



## 2ntense

Well last night I bought mine! Check ABC Warehouse if you can. I got mine for $1400 w/tax. The TV is blurry in the bottom left corner and mis converged on the top right corner. Hopefully this can be fixed in the service menu. Can anyone point me to a link for that? Other than that the picture looks quite good using Clear QAM from cable which get all my local HD stations.


Thanks


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *2ntense* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well last night I bought mine! Check ABC Warehouse if you can. I got mine for $1400 w/tax. The TV is blurry in the bottom left corner and mis converged on the top right corner. Hopefully this can be fixed in the service menu. Can anyone point me to a link for that? Other than that the picture looks quite good using Clear QAM from cable which get all my local HD stations.
> 
> 
> Thanks


 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=531494 


Use CTRL F to search for terms in that monster. It's all there if you're feeling adventerous.


----------



## regor13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KMR* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I understand a lot of your comments; those are severe things that need some thought.
> 
> 
> Though, earthquakes aren't a problem in my area (at least, none in my lifetime, that I'm aware of). There is a 7-year-old child who visits us every so often, but she generally knows not to touch my stuff. If she did, I would have no hestitation to instigate an eye for an eye....
> 
> 
> Also, I found some things called "sliders" on Amazon last night, and proceeded to order 'em. They are able to be placed under the legs of heavy furniture to make it easy to slide around. With these in place, access to rear inputs shouldn't be a big deal. All I would have to do is slide the entertainment center forward a few feet.
> 
> 
> Edit: Also, my entertainment center is able to hold 250 pounds on the TV spot alone, so weight isn't really an issue.



I had the same concerns with my 960 but my 40" stand just makes it as it also goes back 24" to the back - like the shape of the TV but also the front feet of the TV are 3 1/2" wide on each side so mine is solid even though it is even with the edge and with plush carpet floor underneath its still sturdy. No earthquakes in 'cheesehead country' though!


----------



## pharmerphil

Just got a good price from ABT for a 960N. $1,408 delivered plus $298 for the Sony SU-34XBR-3 stand. I just retired and want a good quality TV for my wife & I to watch. Everything I read here at this site is very positive towards the 960N. I thought about waiting for the XBR 970 but I hear such good stuff about the 960 that I'm afraid I'll miss out on the best TV ever if I don't buy one before they are all gone. I know very lttle about electronics and TV installation. My reception is via DISH satellite. I do have a DVD player, a VHS tape player, and a small Onkyo surround sound sustem hooked to my existing Toshiba 32 in. CRT(CF 32H50) TV. My big question is: can an amateur like myself connect up a 960 without major problems? Can I "tune" a 960 to my watching specs. or is that best left to a professional? I want to 'plug & play" my new TV without major problems or undue stress. Is this possible or should I expect I will need professional assistance? I will appreciate any and all help, suggestions, & info. that any of you can provide. I just don't want to get in over my head and spend a bunch of $ on something so complicated that I can't comprehend. Thanx.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pharmerphil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just got a good price from ABT for a 960N. $1,408 delivered plus $298 for the Sony SU-34XBR-3 stand. I just retired and want a good quality TV for my wife & I to watch. Everything I read here at this site is very positive towards the 960N. I thought about waiting for the XBR 970 but I hear such good stuff about the 960 that I'm afraid I'll miss out on the best TV ever if I don't buy one before they are all gone. I know very lttle about electronics and TV installation. My reception is via DISH satellite. I do have a DVD player, a VHS tape player, and a small Onkyo surround sound sustem hooked to my existing Toshiba 32 in. CRT(CF 32H50) TV. My big question is: can an amateur like myself connect up a 960 without major problems? Can I "tune" a 960 to my watching specs. or is that best left to a professional? I want to 'plug & play" my new TV without major problems or undue stress. Is this possible or should I expect I will need professional assistance? I will appreciate any and all help, suggestions, & info. that any of you can provide. I just don't want to get in over my head and spend a bunch of $ on something so complicated that I can't comprehend. Thanx.



Not to worry, you do not need a professional to make an expensive house call to connect your equipment, in fact, those who deliver it will probably make the connections for you. Just keep your wires connected to the components and have some paper scotch taped to each so you know which is for which (DVD, VCR, audio, etc.).


Same goes for setting up the picture for your viewing pleasure. Most of us suggest setting the mode to "monitor" for each input/ Descriptions appear on the screen for each advanced setting so you will know the reason for adjustment. It might take time to get final, precise settings to your liking but adjustments aren't difficult to make.


You can post any questions onto this thread - we'll all be glad to help you out.


Enjoy your 960 - we have the winter olympics on and the HD picture is absolutely gorgeous.


----------



## pharmerphil

Joe, Thanks for the vote of confidence. Rest assured that I will be asking you, and others on this site, for additional help, info. and guidance as time evolves. Thanks again for the quick response and for letting me know that hooking up a XBR960 can be done by a novice.


----------



## Mathesar

My XBR960N from Cruthfield was delivered today







,However as far as the "white glove" service goes only 1 person showed up and he had the TV sideways on the dolly (not sure if thats bad?) , He also said he doesnt install TVs and just left it in my living room and took off, But the box was in perfect condition with no dents / damage and the Drop indicator on the box wasnt tripped ( pic ). I called my brother over to help me get this beast on my tv stand (Very heavy indeed!).


When plugging in the TV it turned itself on (wasn't expecting that) and was showing a snowy / no signal picture (hadn't hooked up cable yet) but I noticed a small area on the left side of the screen was purple but it quickly went away after about 4 seconds (whew). The tv was defaulted to VIVID mode on all video inputs (which looked terrible), After trying various Xbox 360 games @ 1080i and a few dvd movies I've (so far) come to the conclusion that Yes this tv has superior color & detail however it's not the brightest CRT ive owned,it blooms VERY easily if you turn the picture setting up to high, With Xbox360 I cant have the Picture setting above 35 or it starts to blur text / bloom, is this common on the XBR960? or perhaps it gets better as it burns in? In comparison my Sony 32HS510 has a considerably brighter picture without blooming ,When playing games I always ran the HS510 in Standard mode / No VM / Neutral color with the Picture setting at about 70% and it was very vivid & clean with no blooming.


Sound quality from the built in speakers is good but to be honest it was alittle better overall on the HS510 ,especially in the midrange quality ..also the XBR tends to overdo the treble even with it turned down ,Bass output is the same on both which is a good thing.


Geometry is good throughout most of the picture (definitely better than my HS510) however on the extreme right side of the screen it bends downward in the lower right and bends upward in the upper right, especially noticeable when looking at the Memory stick screen. Im assuming a service menu setting might help this(?)


I havent tried over the air HD yet but my analog cable signal looks pretty much the same as it did on the 32HS510, which is what I was hoping for, Im not sure how to use the "Custom DRC" settings yet (HS510 lacks the ability to adjust each drc setting) but for now I have it set @ Interlaced / Default custom 1.


Guess thats it for now , if I sounded overly negative I didnt mean to be, This TV is definitely great and I havent seen any actual HD content yet (other than xbox360) but getting used to a darker picture might take some getting used to, I have 30 days to decide if I wanna keep it..Ive only had it half a day and im sure it could be adjusted better, Heres a pic of it on my stand. I still need to sort out the wire mess behind it










EDIT: In case anyones curious the tv has a build date of November 2005 and was made in Mexico.


----------



## 2ntense




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=531494
> 
> 
> Use CTRL F to search for terms in that monster. It's all there if you're feeling adventerous.



Thanks! It's already come in handy as I have been able to take the 9500K temp to 6500 in PRO mode.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *2ntense* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks! It's already come in handy as I have been able to take the 9500K temp to 6500 in PRO mode.



Nice!


----------



## snatta

Did you contact Crutchfield and let them know that you didn't get the "white glove" delivery that was promised or expected, and I am guessing was included in your price of the XBR? If they charged you anything close to the $1899.99 that their web site list, I would think they owe you at least $100 for not performing white glove delivery. I also notice on the XBR page it says: Note: Free return shipping not available with this model. I didn't notice this before. This is a little suprising to me from a authorized Sony dealer that charges full price.







Hopefully everything works out for you.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *snatta* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Did you contact Crutchfield and let them know that you didn't get the "white glove" delivery that was promised or expected, and I am guessing was included in your price of the XBR? If they charged you anything close to the $1899.99 that their web site list, I would think they owe you at least $100 for not performing white glove delivery. I also notice on the XBR page it says: Note: Free return shipping not available with this model. I didn't notice this before. This is a little suprising to me from a authorized Sony dealer that charges full price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully everything works out for you.



Good call.


Crutchfield can't control the actual delivery itself, but they definitely want, and NEED to be notified when things like this happen so they can terminate service with that particular shipping company.


There's just absolutely no excuse for this scenario to have happened. I'd definitely call Crutchfield and tell them all about it ASAP.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *snatta* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Note: Free return shipping not available with this model. I didn't notice this before. This is a little suprising to me from a authorized Sony dealer that charges full price.



I questioned Crutchfield about this prior to purchasing my 960 from them last September -- they said the "no free return shipping" is only if you decide that you don't want the set and wish to return it (they offer free shippping if you change your mind on most other products they sell). If there is a problem with the set and it end up needing to be replaced, they pick up the shipping cost to return it to them under those circumstances.


----------



## pharmerphil

Need some info. ASAP about the dimensions for the 960N as I hope to order one this evening. The Sony Style site says it is 39 & one-eighth in. wide and 23 & seven-eighths deep. My table I plan to use is only 38 & one-eighth in. wide and 21 and one-half in. deep. Does this minor smaller size make a difference? I'm thinking (hoping) that the actual footprint of the TV, the part that actually sets on the table, is a bit smaller than the overall dimensions given by Sony. I hate to spend the extra $298 for the Sony stand (SU-34XBR-3) but if that best fits my needs I will do so. If anyone can please advise me with some info. I would certainly appreciate it.


----------



## joebxr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pharmerphil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Need some info. ASAP about the dimensions for the 960N as I hope to order one this evening. The Sony Style site says it is 39 & one-eighth in. wide and 23 & seven-eighths deep. My table I plan to use is only 38 & one-eighth in. wide and 21 and one-half in. deep. Does this minor smaller size make a difference? I'm thinking (hoping) that the actual footprint of the TV, the part that actually sets on the table, is a bit smaller than the overall dimensions given by Sony. I hate to spend the extra $298 for the Sony stand (SU-34XBR-3) but if that best fits my needs I will do so. If anyone can please advise me with some info. I would certainly appreciate it.



As long as your stand can handle the weight, why not go with it at least for now. If you are unhappy with the appearance of it on the stand, you can take your time and find the best stand for the least money to better meet your needs. Personally, I bought a stand of $200 that's wood, made in Canada, grey match to color of TV, glass front doors and plenty of 2 shelf room for audio, etc. I prefer it to the Sony stand. Anyway, at this point I would make sure your current stand can handle the weight,,,that's VERY IMPORTANT!


Here's the link and web picture if you are interested:
http://www.audio-video-furniture.com...1-TV-Stand.htm 


Looks like price is $215 now, but shipping is free. Nice thing is that bottom is swivel base. I put ball casters underneath when I assembled it so it makes it easier to move.


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pharmerphil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Need some info. ASAP about the dimensions for the 960N as I hope to order one this evening. The Sony Style site says it is 39 & one-eighth in. wide and 23 & seven-eighths deep. My table I plan to use is only 38 & one-eighth in. wide and 21 and one-half in. deep. Does this minor smaller size make a difference? I'm thinking (hoping) that the actual footprint of the TV, the part that actually sets on the table, is a bit smaller than the overall dimensions given by Sony. I hate to spend the extra $298 for the Sony stand (SU-34XBR-3) but if that best fits my needs I will do so. If anyone can please advise me with some info. I would certainly appreciate it.



Hrm not sure about your current table, The TV is at its max 39 1/8 width only at one small point towards the front and then curves sharply inward towards the back, however it is the full 24" deep ,My tv stand is 23.6" deep and the back / bottom feet of the tv just *barely* start to hang off the back end of it. I bought the Z-line stand from circuit city for $179 but its on sale right now for $153 ( link ) I bought that one not only for the lower price but the fact it has a lot more room for components vs. the Sony stand.


----------



## Mathesar

Lastnight I connected the Antenna that came with my ATI HDTV Wonder PC card and was able to pick up 6 digital stations on the XBR, I watched some of the Olympics and later Jay Leno and was blown away by the HD picture quality ,But I noticed in the upper right corner the convergence is pretty messed up on my TV







, Its in the extreme upper corner and I doubt I'd ever notice it when watching movies , the only reason I noticed it so easily is because the NBC logo sits in that corner during the Olympics, Is this convergence error fixable through service menu or other methods? Thanks.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Lastnight I connected the Antenna that came with my ATI HDTV Wonder PC card and was able to pick up 6 digital stations on the XBR, I watched some of the Olympics and later Jay Leno and was blown away by the HD picture quality ,But I noticed in the upper right corner the convergence is pretty messed up on my TV
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , Its in the extreme upper corner and I doubt I'd ever notice it when watching movies , the only reason I noticed it so easily is because the NBC logo sits in that corner during the Olympics, Is this convergence error fixable through service menu or other methods? Thanks.




Yes, it's fixable via both service menu and possible necessary manipulation of the tube's magnets. I had my ISF man do it for me.


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Good call.
> 
> 
> Crutchfield can't control the actual delivery itself, but they definitely want, and NEED to be notified when things like this happen so they can terminate service with that particular shipping company.
> 
> 
> There's just absolutely no excuse for this scenario to have happened. I'd definitely call Crutchfield and tell them all about it ASAP.



I emailed them lastnight and got this response today:


"Thanks for your e-mail. I'm sorry to hear that you were disappointed with how the Sony KD-34XBR960N 34" 16:9 High Definition Television was delivered by Eagle Freight.


Our agreement with Eagle is that this item will be delivered and placed in any accessible room in your home. I am very sorry that this was not taken care of, and I have made our shipping coordinator aware.


Your feedback was much appreciated. I have made note of it, in the hope that we may improve our response to other customers in future.


Thank you again. Please let us know if you have any further questions or concerns.


Regards,


Gwen

Crutchfield Customer Service
[email protected] "


P.S. Thanks for the info on the Convergence issue, Would it be worth having a Sony tech mess with the convergence (being it free) or would they not even attempt to do the kind of quality adjustment an ISF guy might do in this area?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> P.S. Thanks for the info on the Convergence issue, Would it be worth having a Sony tech mess with the convergence (being it free) or would they not even attempt to do the kind of quality adjustment an ISF guy might do in this area?



Crapshoot.


If you CAN get a good Sony person to do it, then sure!


In my case, I realized very quickly, after calling Sony and talking to an idiot, that I would be better served simply going ISF, since I knew I was getting an ISF job no matter what, anyways.


----------



## kny3twalker

the servicer from Sony, I asked to adjust the horizontal alignment just a little, and he acted like if he got into the service menu, he would mess up something


he said, it looks really good but it you REALLY want me to, I can make the adjust

but it can mess up other things


its like what???



thanks anyways


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joebxr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As long as your stand can handle the weight, why not go with it at least for now. If you are unhappy with the appearance of it on the stand, you can take your time and find the best stand for the least money to better meet your needs. Personally, I bought a stand of $200 that's wood, made in Canada, grey match to color of TV, glass front doors and plenty of 2 shelf room for audio, etc. I prefer it to the Sony stand. Anyway, at this point I would make sure your current stand can handle the weight,,,that's VERY IMPORTANT!
> 
> 
> Here's the link and web picture if you are interested:
> http://www.audio-video-furniture.com...1-TV-Stand.htm
> 
> 
> Looks like price is $215 now, but shipping is free. Nice thing is that bottom is swivel base. I put ball casters underneath when I assembled it so it makes it easier to move.



Joe,


I LOVE the way the 960 appears with that stand! Its similar to the one my friend has which Toshiba made for it's own 34" HD CRT. Unfortunately, because of its extra width it is a little too big for our area. We do have the matching stand from SONY and with the decreased width going to the back we're able to arrange the audio furniture a little bit better.


But that's a real nice stand!


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I LOVE the way the 960 appears with that stand!



Unless this is the 960N and Sony changed the color scheme, this looks like an "artists conception" if it's supposed to be a 960.


The 960 is almost entirely dark gray when you look at it head on. Only the trim is a lighter gray, and almost none of that is visible when you look at it straight ahead. Is the 960N now all silver in color?


Also, the top edge in the picture is very different from the 960, which sort of rolls off downward. The top of the set is not flat, and is actually two-tone as the lighter gray trim begins halfway back into that top edge.


Nevertheless, that's a nice looking base.


----------



## georgegreer

I read in this forum the XBR960N is being discontinued and the 970 does not have the super fine pitch screen. I have been waiting for years for my 1987 SBR 25" to die, but the tube is still perfect. But I don't want to miss out on the XBR CRT with the super fine pitch screen, so now's the time.


So I go to the reviews at reviews-zdnet [I'm new so can't post this as a link yet]


and see some daunting comments, listed from worst to best on this link.


Here are three of the worst:

_____________________________


I have owned this set for 70 days, it worked correctly only for the first 20. If you buy this set, you'd better get a service policy with a "no lemmon policy". All I need is one more failure (it'll be the 4th) and I can exchange this piece of junk for something that works.


AND


Pros:amazing picture if you buy a set that works

Cons:3 out of ten people get a bad set on this model!

Full user opinion

3 hours after i bought it the tv failed and dident want to turn back on! waited a week just got the tv back tv was fixed for half an hour now it wont turn back on again! gona get another model. Ill never buy from sony again. they really killed me on this one! And its ashame too cause theres so many people out there hurtin from the same model.


AND


Pros:A BLESSING IF THE SET DIES OUT OF THE BOX

Cons:IF IT WORKS FOR THIRTY DAYS, YOU CAN'T RETURN IT.

Full user opinion

The XBR worked for two hours and then went into a perpetual sleep mode. It would not power up. After spending close to an hour talking to a Sony Tech., I was advised there was a tuner problem. One in five sets apparently had this problem. The tech's advice was "return the set to the store." If I wanted it fixed there was a two week waiting period for the part. Warning to all, if you buy this set make sure it is delivered and set up by a store tech. Get the extended warranty and run it 24/7 for the first month or return period. I am sure Sony knows this problem exists. Do not buy the set if the tv manufacture date is May 2005. I hope Sony realizes what this is doing to their quality product reputation.

Shame on Sony, buyer beware.

__________________________________


But I see nothing in this thread about problems.


Any suggestions? Should I ask them to test it in the store before delivering it. On the plus side, I have had only the best experience at my local, non-chain, store.


George


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Unless this is the 960N and Sony changed the color scheme, this looks like an "artists conception" if it's supposed to be a 960.
> 
> 
> The 960 is almost entirely dark gray when you look at it head on. Only the trim is a lighter gray, and almost none of that is visible when you look at it straight ahead. Is the 960N now all silver in color?
> 
> 
> Also, the top edge in the picture is very different from the 960, which sort of rolls off downward. The top of the set is not flat, and is actually two-tone as the lighter gray trim begins halfway back into that top edge.
> 
> 
> Nevertheless, that's a nice looking base.



Yea thats not a 960N in the picture , to me it looks like a HS420 model .. I just got my 960N a couple days ago and took this pic .


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...35#post7199335


----------



## kny3twalker

my Sony has never had problems tuning a station with no PSIP data


and I replied to your post


----------



## joebxr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Joe,
> 
> 
> I LOVE the way the 960 appears with that stand!



Just a std catalog pic...not the 960 or a shot of my setup....sorry, should have explained that.


----------



## Mathesar

Ugh.. I discovered a possible problem w/ my 960N lastnight, When playing Xbox360 I noticed a faint 'flicker' in the backround sort of like interference where the screen quickly alternates brighter / darker , I then exited back to the 360 dash and changed it from 1080i to 720p and it actualy made it worse, I then tried 480P and the flicker completly goes away (?) To verify that it wasnt my Xbox360 I loaded a 720P game on my original Xbox (which is on the Video 5 component input) and this interference effect is also present here ..so its happening on both component inputs on two differant consoles but not when using 480P, Any ideas?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ugh.. I discovered a possible problem w/ my 960N lastnight, When playing Xbox360 I noticed a faint 'flicker' in the backround sort of like interference where the screen quickly alternates brighter / darker , I then exited back to the 360 dash and changed it from 1080i to 720p and it actualy made it worse, I then tried 480P and the flicker completly goes away (?) To verify that it wasnt my Xbox360 I loaded a 720P game on my original Xbox (which is on the Video 5 component input) and this interference effect is also present here ..so its happening on both component inputs on two differant consoles but not when using 480P, Any ideas?



What are your currrent settings on your 960?


1080i probably should be what you stick with, since the TV is going to convert that 720p signal anyways. Skip a conversion step. YMMV, though.


The 360 cables are of pretty darned good quality, so that shouldn't be any issue.


----------



## pharmerphil

I am/was so close to ordering a new 960N from ABT for $1,408. That was until I read thread #3593 (above) from George Greer. I researched some of the reviews he quoted and there does appear to be a whole lot of disgruntled buyers. A 30% failure rate scares the hell out of me. I live in a rural area where authorized Sony dealers are few and far between. The one or two I talked with have never sold, seen, or serviced a XBR960. Plus, if you didn't buy the TV from them they tend to drag their feet if you need warranty work done. Is this info. just a "the sky is falling" perspective or does the XBR960 really have a high failure rate and more problems than one would expect with a new Sony? I'm really unsure what to do. Will the XBR970 have some of the 960's problems rectified or will it be basically the same? My bottomline question is: does the XBR 960 have more than its' share of problems and failures? I just don't want to spend that kind of money and get a barrel of headaches and problems. Thanx.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pharmerphil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am/was so close to ordering a new 960N from ABT for $1,408. That was until I read thread #3593 (above) from George Greer. I researched some of the reviews he quoted and there does appear to be a whole lot of disgruntled buyers. A 30% failure rate scares the hell out of me.



What crack did he pull the 30% failure rate from? The side of his neck or his a**? Is it a SWAG or does he have access to the actual number of sets sold worldwide and the actual number of failures?


I'm just happy to be part of the 70%


----------



## georgegreer

I phoned my two local dealers this AM, after reading the bad reviews, which I posted last night. They report no returns at all of the 34XBR960N. The non-chain discount dealer had data on the last 10 sold since December, 2005, with no returns. The local audio/videophile store said they never get them returned, and said there could be a problem in how they are handled in shipping with the Internet orders. They said if it works at first, it should work "forever." Their price today is $1599, but they'll match the price of the discount dealer, who wouldn't give it over the phone.


So, I feel as reassured as possible and probably will take the plunge.


----------



## regor13

Yup, that is the way it works with every 'survey'... I mean Thread, as it tends to bring out the issues and the negatives others have, are pointed out as they should be. I mainly sifted thru the whole thread PRIOR to buying my 960 and since my purchase around Thread #96 I kept monitoring all the issues. This really prompted me to buy the TV as it was 'right for me' with all it's capabilities I needed and I learned from others experiences and comments....and mainly to get a straight answer! HDTV PQ IS GREAT. If you think the Cons on this thread are a - no confidence vote, just try buying a BreadMachine and researching that. :-7


----------



## pharmerphil

Joe, I really like the looks of your Tech-Craft CABS41 stand. The review of it says it is 21.5 inches in depth but the XBR 960 is supposed to be 23 & seven-eighths in depth. Has that caused a problem for you? Does the rear center leg of the TV sit on the stand okay or does it "hang over" the edge?


----------



## david4455

Okay....I am trying to record an OTA program today on a VCR I temporarily set up....I put some cables from the MONITOR OUT on the back of the TV and went into the VIDEO IN on the VCR but I can't get it to record ...I just get a black screen and lots of static....somehow the two are not communicating.... any thoughts.


Thanks....


----------



## joebxr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pharmerphil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Joe, I really like the looks of your Tech-Craft CABS41 stand. The review of it says it is 21.5 inches in depth but the XBR 960 is supposed to be 23 & seven-eighths in depth. Has that caused a problem for you? Does the rear center leg of the TV sit on the stand okay or does it "hang over" the edge?



Fits absolutely pefect in every way...little bit of difference in depth means nothing, since all the weight is upfront anyway. If you PM me with email I will try to take some pics and send them if you wish.


----------



## JOENAMCO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *david4455* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Okay....I am trying to record an OTA program today on a VCR I temporarily set up....I put some cables from the MONITOR OUT on the back of the TV and went into the VIDEO IN on the VCR but I can't get it to record ...I just get a black screen and lots of static....somehow the two are not communicating.... any thoughts.
> 
> 
> Thanks....



Monitor out is not available with digital channels or 480i, 720p or 1080i and video 5,6 or 7. see page 16 of user manual. I wanted to use it to do the same.


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What are your currrent settings on your 960?
> 
> 
> 1080i probably should be what you stick with, since the TV is going to convert that 720p signal anyways. Skip a conversion step. YMMV, though.
> 
> 
> The 360 cables are of pretty darned good quality, so that shouldn't be any issue.



On my 360 / Xbox I have it set on Standard (Pro just seems to dark for videogames) / Picture 31 / Brigthness 34 / Color 31 / Hue 0 / Sharpness 35 / Color temp neutral / Clearedge VM OFF / Color Axis on Monitor.


It actualy looks like interference , dark bands are quickly scrolling across the screen which gives it a flickering effect ,if I turn up the brightness / picture it makes it a lot more noticable,It's not noticable in all situations but now that I know its there its driving me crazy, I hooked up the 360 to my HS510 and it looks fine.


I can see it easily if I load a movie trailer off the 360 hardrive and pause it on the first screen that comes up (The green screen with the 'Approved for all audiences' message).


Whats wierd is as I type this the interference is hardly noticable right now. I suppose it randomly gets worse / better.


----------



## Ladd

Here's the deal:


I have has friends two couples that I think would enjoy meeting each other. Inexplicably, despite being highly educated scientists, academicians and otherwise sophisticated and urbane people







, both couples enjoy and/or love NASCAR racing.


Since my lovely bride and I have never watched more than a minute or two of cars going around in a circle, we asked their advice on when was the first race they would like to watch with us and perhaps by osmosis pick up some finer points of NASCAR appreciation. Hence both couples will be coming over tomorrow (Sunday) for dinner and to watch the Auto Club 500 at the California Speedway.


Good friends, good food, possibly good car racing. Have I mentioned showing off the acquired-last-fall XBR960?










Using advice gleaned here previously, I've done the "monitor", "pro" and all the other settings one desires for getting good gray scale and nice blacks for movies and all the other good stuff.


But now I won't be going for the "cinematic experience"; I'm looking for a blow the doors off sports extravaganza experience. I ask advice of the assembled multitudes here as to what might be some settings on the XBR960 that would most likely be NASCAR-riffic.


Perhaps that is what "Vivid" is for?


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pharmerphil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> until I read thread #3593 (above) from George Greer. I researched some of the reviews he quoted and there does appear to be a whole lot of disgruntled buyers. A 30% failure rate scares the hell out of me.



A claim of 30% is obscene. Ask yourself this... with the cost of returns to retailers, how many would have sold the set for years, if 3 of every 10 came back??? Keep in mind that most reviews online (of anything), come from two types of people... people who love a model and rave... and people who had a bad experience (and thus, have an axe to grind). I've seen this with everything from TVs to cars.


Even this thread and forum (which I think are fantastic), are not balanced samplings. Because of the nature of the board (help/suggestions), many people that have problems are drawn to it. I would venture a guess that a large percentage of the owners of this set have never made post 1 (on any board). So, even looking at hundred or two owners in this thread, it's not representative of owners of this model.


That being said, there is some value-add from the "issues" reported in reviews and posts. It makes you aware of what _could_ be wrong with your purchase. That, along with knowing the set's qualities, will help you make an informed decision. So take any rants with a grain of salt. Good info, but likely overblown and dramatic. Hell... I'd be dramtic too if I spent $xxxx.00 on something and it died in a few weeks ! So read up, filter out the devotees that attack anyone with a problem, filter out the conspiracy theorists that think Sony had built up it's reputation to con people out of their $$$ with this set, and make your decision. Take confidence that a set doesn't get the accolades the 960 has, accidentally, and that your are covered with a strong 2 year in-home warranty.


----------



## Mathesar

Can anyone here with an Xbox360 please test something for me, Im seeing a big differance in brightness and sharpness when changing the dashboard setting from 480P to 1080i (it's much brighter in 480p) , for example I had setup the picture to my liking in 1080i but when I switched to 480P the picture was so bright everthing was blooming and the sharpness was also overkill (to sharp) , so basicly 1080i is darker and noticably softer vs. 480p ,is it like this for everyone else? Thanks.


----------



## swankerme

I have the KD-34XBR960 and Oppo DVD combo going on, so far its been working out great but I have one issue. I know it comes up alot here, but I can't seem to solve the overscan issue.


Typical 16x9 movies fill up the whole screen without any frame loss when the TV is on "Full" and the Oppo on "Wide". However, with a movie 1.85:1 or higher, my combo STILL fills the whole screen - removing the black bars, and therefore cutting off some of the edges. I DO NOT want, unlike many, I do not mind the black bars.


However, no matter how I try, I can not get the black bars to appear, and I'd rather not have to resort to having it zoomed 50% just to see the whole picture. I have it connected 1080i via HDMI/DVI, and I have also tried the 480p and 720p settings. I have also tried every combination with the 960's "Normal, Full, Horiz Expand, Vert Expand, Zoom". No luck, every combination it still cuts off 5-10% of the sides!



So Im wondering: is this an issue with the Oppo player, or an issue with the scaling unit in the TV itself? It's sad that this is suppose to be the best widescreen CRT, but lesser 4:3 CRTs at least still show the full picture.


----------



## Mathesar

Wow I just noticed my 960N has quite the overscan going on , Just played Perfect Dark on it for the first time (Looks great btw) and noticed right away the ammo etc. status bar on the bottom right just starts to get cut off , when playing 360 on my Sony FW900 PC monitor theres plenty of space between the status bar and the edge of the screen, Suppose I can give it a slight adjustment in the service menu..


Couple comparison pics I took to show what I mean (check bottom right corner of the shots):


Sony FW900 pic 


960N pic 


P.S. The flickering issue still continues w/ videogames but its hardly noticable especially if I just ignore it ,What would you guys do in my situation ..See if Crutchfield will replace it, or have a sony tech come look at it?


----------



## regor13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *david4455* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Okay....I am trying to record an OTA program today on a VCR I temporarily set up....I put some cables from the MONITOR OUT on the back of the TV and went into the VIDEO IN on the VCR but I can't get it to record ...I just get a black screen and lots of static....somehow the two are not communicating.... any thoughts.
> 
> 
> Thanks....




David, (check your private message I sent on OTA) - and also note the folder insert that came with the XBR manual shows how to set up the VCR and is the first example shown, but use a splitter off the OTA and go directly to the VCR and not thru the set. Cable as shown in the example and set up your VIDEO #3 or where ever you want to set it.


----------



## AHammer16

Hello again all,


I've got a 960. I have had the TUBE replaced 2 times within 1.5 years. The 960 is now doing the same thing it was doing before, color distortion in the corners with the new added bonus of not working at all occasionally. The techs have come out multiple times and keep telling me that the problem is a broken apeture grill in the tube. So sony replaces it and i get the unit back and it does it again. I do not have any sources of magnetism sitting around the TV and can not figure what is going wrong w this unit. What do you all think of the issue?

I have called sony to have the unit looked at again as well as mildly berating them for the problems I have had. They have told me that they will take back the unit and credit me the full amount of purchase. If i do this what sony brand TV should i get? I was thinking i should stay away form another tube TV but i love the clarity and dark blacks. They suggested going to a flat panel LCD unit. Pros and cons of a LCD flat panel?

Has any one else here experianced any of these problems with the 960? I would like some input from you all as current users of the 960.


Thanks again for your time.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pharmerphil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am/was so close to ordering a new 960N from ABT for $1,408. That was until I read thread #3593 (above) from George Greer. I researched some of the reviews he quoted and there does appear to be a whole lot of disgruntled buyers. A 30% failure rate scares the hell out of me. I live in a rural area where authorized Sony dealers are few and far between. The one or two I talked with have never sold, seen, or serviced a XBR960. Plus, if you didn't buy the TV from them they tend to drag their feet if you need warranty work done. Is this info. just a "the sky is falling" perspective or does the XBR960 really have a high failure rate and more problems than one would expect with a new Sony? I'm really unsure what to do. Will the XBR970 have some of the 960's problems rectified or will it be basically the same? My bottomline question is: does the XBR 960 have more than its' share of problems and failures? I just don't want to spend that kind of money and get a barrel of headaches and problems. Thanx.



It is true, George is not alone experiencing problems with more than one 960 and while this is unfortunate they are the exception rather than the rule. Have found very few negatives by purchasers on independent webpages like this one.


In addition, the 960 was hailed as a reference set by "High Defination" magazine, received five stars from every individual reviewing the product on Crutchfield's website (Crutchfield does print negative reviews; I know because I submitted one for a DVD recorder) and on a recent HDTV website (I forgot which) was rated 8.1.


These are well-built units and the only TV backed with a two-year warranty. Don't be leary purchasing one.


----------



## Chorgey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In addition, the 960 was hailed as a reference set by "High Defination" magazine, received five stars from every individual reviewing the product on Crutchfield's website (Crutchfield does print negative reviews; I know because I submitted one for a DVD recorder) and on a recent HDTV website (I forgot which) was rated 8.1.



The 960 received an 8.1 rating on CNET, it is also their reference set. I just purchased one in early January and love it. Consumer Reports always has it at the top of their list, including this months current issue.


----------



## bobloblaw

What is the effective resolution of the 960? It's my understanding that it cannot display a full 1920x1080i image, is this correct?


Thanks for any info...


----------



## POWERFUL

Somewhere in the range of 1440X1000 or so lines, if you are only looking for resolution I would tell you to pick up a Westinghouse 19" widescreen LCD it's only about 400 dollars and has about the same lines. If your into PQ then you've come to the right place.


----------



## gigaguy

My 960 seems flawless, June 05 build. I'm very happy with mine. Only downside is it is not big enough! Olympics looked fantastic with the white background and colorful athletes. I'd love an LCD flat panel (am eyeing tghe Sony LCD sets) but they are so expensive per inch and not as great a picture as this tube.

Maybe environmental factors are causing distortion on your tubes? don't know.


----------



## KMR

Well, I guess so much for me getting a 960. I applied for Crutchfield's "no payments, no interest" plan, but... I didn't get approved.


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> What is the effective resolution of the 960? It's my understanding that it cannot display a full 1920x1080i image, is this correct?



its 1401x 1080i (but understand with 1080i that only 540 lines are displayed at once) so its hard to say how much actual vertical resolution there actually is)


----------



## sphinx99

I'm led to believe from posts a few years back that the actual effective resolution (phosphor and grille resolution limited) is closer to 1400x800, give or take.


----------



## kny3twalker

yeah but it will not display 1400x800 if thats the correct resolution

it will only display 1080i making the vertical resolution much hard er to figure out rather than just counting the slits in the aperature grill


----------



## Garvey

KD34XBR960 actual wholesale cost: anyone know what stores pay for these? I know that the KV34HS420 wholesale cost was around 820 or so, which means that the MSRP of 1199 was 46% higher than cost (or another way to put it: wholesale cost is 32% off the MSRP).


If the profit margin is about the same on the XBR, then the cost is about 1300.


But perhaps the margins are higher on the XBRs, since they are the top o' the line? Anyone know what the story is?


Thanks!


Garvey


[P.S. I tried to find the forum "rules" that state what aspects of cost are allowed. Street prices not ok, but MSRP ok? Is it ok to talk about wholesale cost? BTW, where are these "rules" and why do they exist? Thanks.]


----------



## GmElliott




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KMR* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I guess so much for me getting a 960. I applied for Crutchfield's "no payments, no interest" plan, but... I didn't get approved.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not like I can't afford to pay the thing off in a 18 months. I just don't have two grand to burn all at once. >_


----------



## gigaguy

The Sony Outlet store had the 960 (and 955) at barn burner prices a few weeks ago, ouch.

it was down in the 3 digits.


----------



## GmElliott

Sony "Outlet"?........ Referbs maybe?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GmElliott* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sony "Outlet"?........ Referbs maybe?




Very likely, if they went below $1000.


----------



## gigaguy

Yes, labeled refurb, with full Sony warranty and they sell ext warrs very cheap.

Many are just open box, damaged retail boxes, returns, etc. just anything that can not be sold as new in a retail store. they were almost a 1/3 of the orig retail price which was $2500 2 years ago.


----------



## Ladd

Other than the hour or so it would take for the TV to complete a re-scan, any down-side to once or twice a year doing a channel scan just to see if there is anything new out there?


----------



## kny3twalker

nope


----------



## swankerme

I got my XBR960 for $1119 from Circuit City, thats pick-up too, so no shipping cost. Therefore the profit margin for the TV must be lower than that.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swankerme* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I got my XBR960 for $1119 from Circuit City, thats pick-up too, so no shipping cost. Therefore the profit margin for the TV must be lower than that.



A 34?!


Golly! We're getting into ski-mask and shotgun territory here, folks!










Nice!


----------



## swankerme

Alright, I am having serious issues with the gaming on this montser. Has anyone here tried gaming with the PS2 or Gamecube with progressive scan on the XBR960? I finally went out and bought component cables for the PS2 and Gamecube so I could activate P-scan on the systems.


IT MAKES IT LOOK WORSE!


After activating the P-scan, light-colored vertical lines become visible on the screen, and if I'm not mistaken there is 480 of them! The picture became VERY sharp, and the 3D objects in the game become very jagged (as if there were 0 anti-aliasing). Fast screen movement makes the jaggies appear worse.


Using normal 480i with the component actually produces a better picture, smoother without the verticle lines. However, I have noticed that gaming IN GENERAL with these systems on this TV is worse than it was on my old SD TV....is that just because its an HDTV, and they are not "visually compatible" with SD video game systems?


I expected so much from this "great" TV, and what do I get? Terrible gaming quality, small 4:3 picture, geometry issues, and overscanning with movies. Or am I just mistaken?


----------



## synyster




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swankerme* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Alright, I am having serious issues with the gaming on this montser. Has anyone here tried gaming with the PS2 or Gamecube with progressive scan on the XBR960? I finally went out and bought component cables for the PS2 and Gamecube so I could activate P-scan on the systems.
> 
> 
> IT MAKES IT LOOK WORSE!
> 
> 
> After activating the P-scan, light-colored vertical lines become visible on the screen, and if I'm not mistaken there is 480 of them! The picture became VERY sharp, and the 3D objects in the game become very jagged (as if there were 0 anti-aliasing). Fast screen movement makes the jaggies appear worse.
> 
> 
> Using normal 480i with the component actually produces a better picture, smoother without the verticle lines. However, I have noticed that gaming IN GENERAL with these systems on this TV is worse than it was on my old SD TV....is that just because its an HDTV, and they are not "visually compatible" with SD video game systems?
> 
> 
> I expected so much from this "great" TV, and what do I get? Terrible gaming quality, small 4:3 picture, geometry issues, and overscanning with movies. Or am I just mistaken?



I just got compenent cables for my gamecube....tried out metroid prime....and i must say the picture looks waaayy better than the standard A/V cables....even when playing games that done support progressive scan. You might have to modify the television settings to achieve the picture that you are looking for.


----------



## synyster

I read somewhere that there were issues with HDMI on the 960(previous models?) I was curious as if anyone was using HDMI for cable TV or gaming? How is the picture? Is the PQ that much better over component? Has anyone experienced any 'issues' with HDMI? Thanks for any feedback.


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swankerme* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ...I expected so much from this "great" TV, and what do I get? Terrible gaming quality, small 4:3 picture, geometry issues, and overscanning with movies. Or am I just mistaken?



Until you calibrate an input you can't really say what it's doing with your signal. Hook up your game console and run a calibration disc and get it properly calibrated. Use whatever cables give you the best PQ - then you can say the performance is good or bad.


----------



## theanimala

Not sure if this has been discussed before but here it goes.


I have had my 34XBR910 for 2 years now and loving it. I just had to get a new DVD player as my SECOND JVC unit died. I just ordered a HDMI upconverting player with a HDMI-DVI cable to replace it. I was wondering if I should have it output 480P, or go for 1080i. I know that the extra info is being made up, but I was wondering if anyone had noticed it looking better one way or the other.


Thanks!


----------



## JOENAMCO




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Other than the hour or so it would take for the TV to complete a re-scan, any down-side to once or twice a year doing a channel scan just to see if there is anything new out there?



Yes if you just do digital no trouble, but a full scan deletes any channel info that you may have keyed in.


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swankerme* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Alright, I am having serious issues with the gaming on this montser. Has anyone here tried gaming with the PS2 or Gamecube with progressive scan on the XBR960? I finally went out and bought component cables for the PS2 and Gamecube so I could activate P-scan on the systems.
> 
> 
> IT MAKES IT LOOK WORSE!
> 
> 
> After activating the P-scan, light-colored vertical lines become visible on the screen, and if I'm not mistaken there is 480 of them! The picture became VERY sharp, and the 3D objects in the game become very jagged (as if there were 0 anti-aliasing). Fast screen movement makes the jaggies appear worse.
> 
> 
> Using normal 480i with the component actually produces a better picture, smoother without the vertical lines. However, I have noticed that gaming IN GENERAL with these systems on this TV is worse than it was on my old SD TV....is that just because its an HDTV, and they are not "visually compatible" with SD video game systems?
> 
> 
> I expected so much from this "great" TV, and what do I get? Terrible gaming quality, small 4:3 picture, geometry issues, and overscanning with movies. Or am I just mistaken?



Im not sure what you mean by Vertical Lines but When running progressive mode dithering artifacts and color banding become quite noticeable in a few cube titles - especially in Eternal Darkness. I don't know what the developers did but the games look like they're using 16bit color depth when progressive is enabled ,this effect is noticeable on any hdtv and the dithering effect disappears when running in 480i mode. Xbox and Xbox 360 do not behave this way and look great when running progressive on the XBR960, Especially Xbox 360 running in 1080i mode.


I took a pic from Eternal Darkness to show what I mean: link ,notice the 'dots' from the sunglare on her face and in the windows ..it looks pretty bad.. but its much nicer in 480i mode.


Im using these picture settings with gamecube: video mode Standard, Picture 31, Brightness 32, Color 34, Sharpness 28, Color Neutral, ClearEdge VM OFF, Color Axis: Monitor.


As for the "looks a lore more jaggy" comment, yes videogames look more jagged on HDTVs due to the lack of scanlines and increased resolution, I noticed this right away when moving from an analog TV to my first HDTV (sony 32HS510 hdtv and now the xbr960)


----------



## Mathesar

Ack.. Im noticing a strange 'ripple' effect in some videogames , it's kind of hard to explain so I took pictures to show what I mean.. If anyone has any ideas what im seeing please respond.


Pic's were taken from the game Black on Xbox running in 480P mode,


The effect is easily noticeable on the health and ammo bars as well as other areas during gameplay.


Heres what it looks like on the XBR960, I tried it in 480i & 480P ,also 4:3 and widescreen modes but it still looks the same: pic 


Notice how the bars start out thin then gradually get thicker then back to thin etc. ,the bars are also not all the same vertical length like they should be.


And heres what it looks like on my other hdtv, a 32HS510: pic 


When I hooked up my Xbox to the HS510 today I was very concerned because of the fact it looks MUCH nicer on it versus my XBR, it was noticably more vibrant,colorful and sharper , Im seriously considering returning this XBR to Crutchfield for a refund.. I shouldn't be comparing it to a 3 year old non-XBR hdtv with negative results like this. As I've mentioned before If I attempt to get the XBR's brightness anywhere near the HS510's it starts to 'bloom' badly. Any ideas why the XBR's "contrast punch" is so subdued?


----------



## kny3twalker

the tighter aperature grill of the super fine pitch tube does not allow as much light output of the older style HS510/420 etc.... tubes


the cost of resolution and detail is a less bright image


but personally I have no problems blooming contrast or dim picture which many seem to complain about


try using default rather than monitor mode


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kny3twalker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> the tighter aperature grill of the super fine pitch tube does not allow as much light output of the older style HS510/420 etc.... tubes
> 
> 
> the cost of resolution and detail is a less bright image
> 
> 
> but personally I have no problems blooming contrast or dim picture which many seem to complain about
> 
> 
> try using default rather than monitor mode



Ah so its the finer pitch thats reducing the light output ..that makes sense and is unfortunate at the same time.. When you say you have no bloom problems how high are you able to turn up the Picture setting before blooming occurs on your XBR? Mine starts to bloom between 28 and 35 depending on the source, its most noticeable in videogames ,especially bright text or images on a black background, Thanks.


----------



## kny3twalker

on my HD feed from over the air, its 40, on my DirecTV SD via composite, its 34

and from my PC via DVI to HDMI, it ranges from 40-48 (Vivid 40, Standard 45, Movie 48, Pro 44)


my PC is the only source which I have configured the setting differently

for I was able to use DVE in the PC drive


the other sources I did by eye, but my eyes usually get the settings pretty close to what DVE would resolve


I use standard for DirecTV, pro for HD, on the PC I use standard for recorded DirecTV, movie for ripped DVDs, and pro for recorded HDTV


I do not use Vivid but hate flipping through that overbright crap setting so I did my best to setup it up as well


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *synyster* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I read somewhere that there were issues with HDMI on the 960(previous models?) I was curious as if anyone was using HDMI for cable TV or gaming? How is the picture? Is the PQ that much better over component? Has anyone experienced any 'issues' with HDMI? Thanks for any feedback.



We have no problem with HDMI watching HD transmissions. It is best to use HDMI over component because HDMI is a pure digital path from the cable box to the 960 whereas the path through component cables is broken into three separate analog signals which are then upgraded back to digital by the set. The limitations of going from digital to analog back to digital produce slightly less picture quality as opposed to straight digital.


----------



## kny3twalker

actually component is better to use with CRTs, if you noticed from the service manual, component at 1080i allows pass through with no processing of the image


where as HDMI no matter what the source is processed like every other non 1080i component input

where there is digital to analogue conversion for the source to seen the same as a component input then back to digital to be processed and then back to analogue for display

the processing effects mostly the color as I understand it


----------



## avnstf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kny3twalker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> actually component is better to use with CRTs, if you noticed from the service manual, component at 1080i allows pass through with no processing of the image
> 
> 
> where as HDMI no matter what the source is processed like every other non 1080i component input
> 
> where there is digital to analogue conversion for the source to seen the same as a component input then back to digital to be processed and then back to analogue for display
> 
> the processing effects mostly the color as I understand it



?the image has to be processed to analog somewhere, because it starts in your system as digital (whether from OTA or cable) and ends up in the CRT as analog voltages...right? I used to think DVI or HDMI would have to be best, because it kept the signal digital as long as possible...then I found for one of my receivers that DVI gave a distinctively poorer quality picture than component did, but I now have a newer unit that gives an excellent picture (I mean in terms of contrast and color depth) using HDMI...so on that one I use digital cable and on the older one (by a year) I use component...go figure.


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> ?the image has to be processed to analog somewhere, because it starts in your system as digital (whether from OTA or cable) and ends up in the CRT as analog voltages...right?



well yeah, but if it come in as HDMI apparently it has to be converted twice


component at 1080i no processing

component at other resolutions is converted to digital processed then converted back to analogue


HDMI is converted to annlogue then treated as component where it has to be converted to digital processed then converted back to analogue


at least thats what the service manual and other members have explained


so if you can get 1080i over component to the TV, it seems that would be the best option


I am not really sure of all this, other than there is a pass through in the service manual for 1080i component only


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kny3twalker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> on my HD feed from over the air, its 40, on my DirecTV SD via composite, its 34
> 
> and from my PC via DVI to HDMI, it ranges from 40-48 (Vivid 40, Standard 45, Movie 48, Pro 44)
> 
> 
> my PC is the only source which I have configured the setting differently
> 
> for I was able to use DVE in the PC drive
> 
> 
> the other sources I did by eye, but my eyes usually get the settings pretty close to what DVE would resolve
> 
> 
> I use standard for DirecTV, pro for HD, on the PC I use standard for recorded DirecTV, movie for ripped DVDs, and pro for recorded HDTV
> 
> 
> I do not use Vivid but hate flipping through that overbright crap setting so I did my best to setup it up as well



What color temp do you use? , I tried 40 Picture with the Pro setting on HD over the air and it was blooming slightly but only if I used Neutral color temp, it looked ok with the Warm setting.


One other thing I dont understand is why 1080i looks 'softer' than 720p with Xbox360, Whenever I toggle back and forth between modes text is less sharp in 1080i, even if I max out the Sharpness setting I cant get text to show any ghosting , on my 32HS510 it was the other way around - 1080i was sharper than 720p in fact I had to turn the sharpness way down to prevent the 'ghosting' effect on text .. Top that off with the fact 1080i is darker in brightness vs. 480P, something my HS510 didnt do either, is my 960 in need of replacement perhaps?


----------



## georgegreer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swankerme* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I got my XBR960 for $1119 from Circuit City, thats pick-up too, so no shipping cost. Therefore the profit margin for the TV must be lower than that.



Last Saturday, I got the 34XBR960 for $1600 including stand and free delivery from my local audiophile dealer in Santa Fe, NM. The local discount store wanted $2200 for the same, TV & stand sold separately. Last one in the box, and only floor model left. They said the 970 (no SuperFine Pitch or other features) would be their only CRT.


It works perfectly and is amazing in picture and sound.


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> What color temp do you use? , I tried 40 Picture with the Pro setting on HD over the air and it was blooming slightly but only if I used Neutral color temp, it looked ok with the Warm setting.
> 
> 
> One other thing I dont understand is why 1080i looks 'softer' than 720p with Xbox360, Whenever I toggle back and forth between modes text is less sharp in 1080i, even if I max out the Sharpness setting I cant get text to show any ghosting , on my 32HS510 it was the other way around - 1080i was sharper than 720p in fact I had to turn the sharpness way down to prevent the 'ghosting' effect on text .. Top that off with the fact 1080i is darker in brightness vs. 480P, something my HS510 didnt do either, is my 960 in need of replacement perhaps?



I am using nuetral for all modes except movie which I leave at warm

and yeah you are right, I was checking out my hd feed and it is slightly blooming at 40

I may need to turn it down

but the brighter picture is nice for non hd content on those hd stations


about 720p vs 1080i, it sounds like the xbox's scaler is not as good as the TV's

I thought most TVs have sharpness disabled for hd sources

at least I thought this is what DVE said about most component inputs on TVs


the draker 1080i vs 480p? I am not sure about

I always thought SD sources were dimmer than their HD counterpart


if you think there is something wrong requiring replacement of your TV

consider at least having Sony in home evulate the TV first

before contacting crutchfield as you might be dissappointed if you get another set that has the same problems



OMG I just have to add this

they were just giving away a KD-34XS955 on the Price is Right today during the showcase showdown


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kny3twalker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am using nuetral for all modes except movie which I leave at warm
> 
> and yeah you are right, I was checking out my hd feed and it is slightly blooming at 40
> 
> I may need to turn it down
> 
> but the brighter picture is nice for non hd content on those hd stations
> 
> 
> about 720p vs 1080i, it sounds like the xbox's scaler is not as good as the TV's
> 
> I thought most TVs have sharpness disabled for hd sources
> 
> at least I thought this is what DVE said about most component inputs on TVs
> 
> 
> the draker 1080i vs 480p? I am not sure about
> 
> I always thought SD sources were dimmer than their HD counterpart
> 
> 
> if you think there is something wrong requiring replacement of your TV
> 
> consider at least having Sony in home evulate the TV first
> 
> before contacting crutchfield as you might be dissappointed if you get another set that has the same problems
> 
> 
> 
> OMG I just have to add this
> 
> they were just giving away a KD-34XS955 on the Price is Right today during the showcase showdown



Thanks for the reply, the sharpness setting still works in 1080 / 720 but the differance between the max & min setting isnt all that obvious, I actually have a tech coming out today to look at the flickering issue I reffered to here , I'll be sure to ask him about my other concerns as well.. but from what Ive been reading on this forum I'm not expecting this tech to be all that well informed. Hopefully he's at least familiar with how an XBR960 normaly performs..


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> Thanks for the reply, the sharpness setting still works in 1080 / 720 but the differance between the max & min setting isnt all that obvious, I actually have a tech coming out today to look at the flickering issue I reffered to here , I'll be sure to ask him about my other concerns as well.. but from what Ive been reading on this forum I'm not expecting this tech to be all that well informed. Hopefully he's at least familiar with how an XBR960 normaly performs..



you are not by chance using Vivid mode for the xbox are you? its dynamic contrast setting with the picture setting at max by default will cause large fluctuations in the picture


and good luck with the tech, I had one come out to my home twice about fixing the minor goemetry pincushioning and horizontal centering of the picture

the guy never ended up fixing the TV either time, or even entering the service menu

and I still have the minor geometry problems


(the second time though he was mainly there for another Sony TV, which was recently replaced)


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kny3twalker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> you are not by chance using Vivid mode for the xbox are you? its dynamic contrast setting with the picture setting at max by default will cause large fluctuations in the picture
> 
> 
> and good luck with the tech, I had one come out to my home twice about fixing the minor goemetry pincushioning and horizontal centering of the picture
> 
> the guy never ended up fixing the TV either time, or even entering the service menu
> 
> and I still have the minor geometry problems
> 
> 
> (the second time though he was mainly there for another Sony TV, which was recently replaced)



I use Standard mode for Xbox during the day and Pro at night. The person I spoke with on the phone sounded concerned that my 1080i output is noticeably darker than 480P as well, I have to use completely differant picture & brightness settings between the two.


----------



## Mathesar

Well the tech came by and connected an image generator to the component input ,when displaying a grayscale pattern the flickering was easily noticeable in 1080i,I then showed him the same thing on my Xbox360 and also how it disappears when changing the 360 to 480P mode, He then said it looks like a faulty M board (whatever that is) which he thinks is also why the brightness is lower in 1080i, he says its an easy Plug n play part so he'll be able to change it without taking the TV... Now I need to decide if I should wait for the part and have it repaired, or just have Crutchfield replace it.. what would you guys do? ..If I wait to have it repaired I'm pretty sure it'll be out of the 30 day exchange period from Crutchfield...


----------



## mortaldivine

I would replace it


----------



## kny3twalker

tell crutchfield thats its defective and you want another, let them deal with fixing it


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins

Could someone list the optimal settings for the XBox 360 when playing in a dark room?


Thanks.


----------



## Athanas2221

I'll second that


----------



## Q of BanditZ

Subjective to your own eyes, but I'd look at pro, monitor, and that usual set up. (Always, for all things.)


Maybe have your brightness in the low to mid 40's and contrast floating around the mid 30's?


----------



## Mathesar

I went ahead and called Crutchfield , They're going to ship out a new TV before they even get my old one which I thought was nice, (at least I wont be without a TV) the freight company that delivers the new one will be picking up the old one as well.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I went ahead and called Crutchfield , They're going to ship out a new TV before they even get my old one which I thought was nice, (at least I wont be without a TV) the freight company that delivers the new one will be picking up the old one as well.



Sometimes paying a little extra is worth it.


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> Subjective to your own eyes, but I'd look at pro, monitor, and that usual set up. (Always, for all things.)
> 
> 
> Maybe have your brightness in the low to mid 40's and contrast floating around the mid 30's?



did you use similiar settings before calibration?


----------



## archon333

No longer listed at Sony Style Online


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *archon333* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No longer listed at Sony Style Online



That's unfortunate.


----------



## synyster




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> We have no problem with HDMI watching HD transmissions. It is best to use HDMI over component because HDMI is a pure digital path from the cable box to the 960 whereas the path through component cables is broken into three separate analog signals which are then upgraded back to digital by the set. The limitations of going from digital to analog back to digital produce slightly less picture quality as opposed to straight digital.



Thanks to you and kny3twalker for the info. Now I have another question and I maybe in the wrong forum for asking this....but what are some good quality cables for component and hdmi? Also does the PQ/Audio degrade when you use longer cables for component or hdmi? I'm looking at Acoustic Research cables on accessoriesforless.


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *synyster* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks to you and kny3twalker for the info. Now I have another question and I maybe in the wrong forum for asking this....but what are some good quality cables for component and hdmi? Also does the PQ/Audio degrade when you use longer cables for component or hdmi? I'm looking at Acoustic Research cables on accessoriesforless.



I think you should be fine with AR cables.


On HDMI vs Component - many of us have found better PQ when using component cables. This is true for me as well.


----------



## Chorgey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *justsc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think you should be fine with AR cables.
> 
> 
> On HDMI vs Component - many of us have found better PQ when using component cables. This is true for me as well.



I am using HDMI for my satellite dish and component cables for the DVD and Playstation 2. I really can't see any difference, then again, I didn't have my set calibrated yet.


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chorgey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am using HDMI for my satellite dish and component cables for the DVD and Playstation 2. I really can't see any difference, then again, I didn't have my set calibrated yet.



Mine is just the opposite. I use an Oppo dvd player which requires a digital interface, so it gets the HDMI port and my cable STB gets a component connection as well as my PS2.


Keep in mind that the coming HD DVD/Blu Ray players will require a digital interface. On sets like our with one HDMI port, that'll put incoming HD signals onto component cables.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *synyster* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks to you and kny3twalker for the info. Now I have another question and I maybe in the wrong forum for asking this....but what are some good quality cables for component and hdmi? Also does the PQ/Audio degrade when you use longer cables for component or hdmi? I'm looking at Acoustic Research cables on accessoriesforless.



Agree with Kny, you won't go wrong with AR.


It's best to get the shortest length necessary on any cable but if it's just a matter of a few extra feet or meter, not to worry. AR and Monster both make longer length cables that don't decrease signal path. Crutchfield offers a good selection.


----------



## julio388

The sony kd-xbr960 is no longer listed on sony website. Also there were other models delisted from the website.


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *synyster* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks to you and kny3twalker for the info. Now I have another question and I maybe in the wrong forum for asking this....but what are some good quality cables for component and hdmi? Also does the PQ/Audio degrade when you use longer cables for component or hdmi? I'm looking at Acoustic Research cables on accessoriesforless.



If I'm in a rush and have to run to the store for a cable, I usually go to BB and grab some AR's and they have always done a fine job. But if you have the time to order online, there is no better place to buy than monoprice.com. I have probably placed 5 orders with them in the last 6 months, all with good results. The one caveat I have with them is that I generally skip their rock bottom cheap cables(ie $6 for a 3' HDMI) and upgrade to the 2nd cheapest($18 3' HDMI). The $6 HDMI might be fine, I just can't guarantee it. I also highly recommend their 5 RCA Component A/V cables, with the 3 Component video and 2 audio cables wrapped as a single cable. Very nice for keeping the connection clutter to a minimum behind your set.


Like Justsc, I use HDMI for my upscaling DVD player and component for my Comcast 6412 STB. The PQ on the 6412 over component is excellent.


----------



## avnstf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LongRufus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If I'm in a rush and have to run to the store for a cable, I usually go to BB and grab some AR's and they have always done a fine job. But if you have the time to order online, there is no better place to buy than monoprice.com. I have probably placed 5 orders with them in the last 6 months, all with good results. The one caveat I have with them is that I generally skip their rock bottom cheap cables(ie $6 for a 3' HDMI) and upgrade to the 2nd cheapest($18 3' HDMI). The $6 HDMI might be fine, I just can't guarantee it. I also highly recommend their 5 RCA Component A/V cables, with the 3 Component video and 2 audio cables wrapped as a single cable. Very nice for keeping the connection clutter to a minimum behind your set.
> 
> 
> Like Justsc, I use HDMI for my upscaling DVD player and component for my Comcast 6412 STB. The PQ on the 6412 over component is excellent.



I posed this question a long time ago in another forum (i.e., for the 32HS500, which is the Sony I have)...I thought that if you have a digital cable - like DVI or HDMI - it should either work or not work, not work poorly...that's supposed to be the advantage of digital vs analog. So I don't understand why anyone would pay big bucks for an HDMI cable!?


Am I thinking about this wrong?


(Component may be another matter, because that's analog...)


----------



## synyster

Thanks again everyone for their feedback. For my HDMI and Component cables, I was looking at gettting 3" to 6", nothing longer. One I get my HD service next weekend I will check the PQ of both component and HDMI. Being that this set only has 2 component jacks I had planed to use one for a DVD player(progressive...non-scaling) and the other for my gamecube/ps2. That would mean I would have to use the hd cable box for HDMI. Again if the PQ is better on the component then I just might break down and get a upscaling dvd player so I wont have to plug and unplug the cables all of the time.


----------



## mr2828




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *avnstf* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I posed this question a long time ago in another forum (i.e., for the 32HS500, which is the Sony I have)...I thought that if you have a digital cable - like DVI or HDMI - it should either work or not work, not work poorly...that's supposed to be the advantage of digital vs analog. So I don't understand why anyone would pay big bucks for an HDMI cable!?
> 
> 
> Am I thinking about this wrong?
> 
> 
> (Component may be another matter, because that's analog...)



No, you're not thinking about it wrong. With digital connections like HDMI that are only transferring bits of data, there is no point in spending more than the bare minimum, and also you don't have to worry about buying really short cables.


I'm using a 10 foot el-cheapo hdmi cable and it works perfectly.


Do you buy $100 monster cable ethernet cables to connect your computers? No? Then why spend more to transfer the same kinds of data between your tv and cable box.


----------



## avnstf

ok, thanks - that's what I thought...so the prices for digital cables (i.e., HDMI or DVI) at places like CC amaze me...


(on the other hand, I did let the saleman talk me into expensive component cables - at a reduced price - when I was buying my Sony HDTV, and I've always gotten good results with them, better than with the DVI cable that came with my LG 3410a receiver/HD recorder last year. But now, I'd say the PQ I get from my new Sony receiver/recorder is probably even better, using the HDMI cable that came with it. I was very happy to see that because I had to use the DVI input to my TV, since now I'm now using all three of its high-quality inputs!)


----------



## Leviticus

Just thought i'd pass along a good low price. American Electronics ( www.americantv.com ) newspaper ad for this coming week (3/5/06) in St. Louis has the 34xbr960 at $1099. If you live near a store thats a good price. Im pretty sure their extended service plans are a bit cheaper than elsewhere also. Dont know if anyone could pricematch this for anywhere else either.


----------



## jude82




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *avnstf* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ok, thanks - that's what I thought...so the prices for digital cables (i.e., HDMI or DVI) at places like CC amaze me...
> 
> 
> (on the other hand, I did let the saleman talk me into expensive component cables - at a reduced price - when I was buying my Sony HDTV, and I've always gotten good results with them, better than with the DVI cable that came with my LG 3410a receiver/HD recorder last year.




i ordered some cables from monoprice after hearing good things on these forums. for some "name brand" cables, i've seen some people recommend the acoustic research cables at best buy. buy.com carries pretty much the whole acoustic research line of cables for waaaaay less than best buy has them for. just an fyi for anyone interested.


----------



## baller99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Leviticus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just thought i'd pass along a good low price. American Electronics ( www.americantv.com ) newspaper ad for this coming week (3/5/06) in St. Louis has the 34xbr960 at $1099. If you live near a store thats a good price. Im pretty sure their extended service plans are a bit cheaper than elsewhere also. Dont know if anyone could pricematch this for anywhere else either.



That price is for the 970 after checkng it out. Nobody is going to give you a 960 for 1100.


----------



## ChrisDog6203

Hello.

I had my xbr960 for about three months and it's and incredible tv, but yesterday, my hdmi input stopped working for no apparent reason. I have a cox hd cable box hooked up to the input via a hdmi-dvi cable. I tried disconnecting and reconnecting it, but it still doesn't work. Also, the audio inputs for it aren't working either. Any help with this matter would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.


----------



## joebxr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChrisDog6203* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello.
> 
> I had my xbr960 for about three months and it's and incredible tv, but yesterday, my hdmi input stopped working for no apparent reason. I have a cox hd cable box hooked up to the input via a hdmi-dvi cable. I tried disconnecting and reconnecting it, but it still doesn't work. Also, the audio inputs for it aren't working either. Any help with this matter would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.



I would start with the box. See if you can get COX to test it online and see if there is an issue. If they can't, then see if you can swap for a new box. It may be the TV, but having the output via HDMI and Audio both out, I would think the box may be at fault.


----------



## Sonyboy

I am looking at getting the the xbr960 at a very good price. I have the sony 30hs510 model now. It's been ISF calibrated and it looks great. I've heard so many rave reviews on the 960 I am strongly considering buying one, plus the 4 extra inches would be nice. I am wondering does the 960 need to be professionally calibrated to look this good or is this good out of the box. I just fear I will get it and it might not be that big of a jump from my calibrated set. In Cnet's review they stated that the pro and monitor settings were about accurate for all viewing out of the box. Is that an accurate statement. Any feed back on these questions is appreciated.


----------



## ChrisDog6203




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joebxr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would start with the box. See if you can get COX to test it online and see if there is an issue. If they can't, then see if you can swap for a new box. It may be the TV, but having the output via HDMI and Audio both out, I would think the box may be at fault.



I thought that it might be my cox hd cable box, but then I plugged in my HDMI out dvd player and still nothing. I guess I'll have to call Sony to get a tech over here to fix it.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




Sonyboy said:


> I am looking at getting the the xbr960 at a very good price. I have the sony 30hs510 model now. It's been ISF calibrated and it looks great. I've heard so many rave reviews on the 960 I am strongly considering buying one, plus the 4 extra inches would be nice. I am wondering does the 960 need to be professionally calibrated to look this good or is this good out of the box. I just fear I will get it and it might not be that big of a jump from my calibrated set. In Cnet's review they stated that the pro and monitor settings were about accurate for all viewing out of the box. Is that an accurate statement. Any feed back on these questions is appreciated.[/QUOTE
> 
> I've been debating since August whether to invest the more than $200 necessary to have my set callibrated. Many on this thread thought they had beautiful pictures beforehand then raved about even better PQ once their sets were callibrated. Another member, however, said he was told by a technician if the picture looks perfect as it is, not to bother having it callibrated.
> 
> 
> I assume all sets are callibrated before being packed so it might not really be necessary if done properly in the factory and we're very happy with the PQ as is. Every Saturday at 7:00 AM INHD has a series of tests for properly adjusting HD sets. One of the tests included a test for (I think) conversion; if any color appears where there should be pure white then the set needs to be adjusted. Our's was pure white so we're leaving it alone.
> 
> 
> With us it's a question of money. If $200+ is not the issue, then having it callibrated would be suggested for peace of mind.


----------



## Sonyboy

Thanks for the input.


----------



## greenland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *baller99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That price is for the 970 after checkng it out. Nobody is going to give you a 960 for 1100.



Actually it was the price posted on their online site for both models last week. This week the online site only lists the 970, so they must have sold all the remaining 960 sets at a close out price. Notice that the 960 has also been removed from the Sonystyle site. Perhaps if someone is looking for a 960 at the 1099 price, they might want to check with the AmericanTV store in their area. They are not a very large chain, and have stores in just a few midwest states.


----------



## CCMOO

My xbr960 came yesterday. Went vivid to standard and tinkered a little with the settings, but nothing major yet. I'm blown away by the richness and depth of the colors. Just amazing. Can't wait until HD arrives Thursday.


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ...I assume all sets are callibrated before being packed so it might not really be necessary if done properly in the factory and we're very happy with the PQ as is. Every Saturday at 7:00 AM INHD has a series of tests for properly adjusting HD sets. One of the tests included a test for (I think) conversion; if any color appears where there should be pure white then the set needs to be adjusted. Our's was pure white so we're leaving it alone.
> 
> 
> With us it's a question of money. If $200+ is not the issue, then having it callibrated would be suggested for peace of mind.



Joseph,


The calibration received at the factory falls well short of a customer's calibration with Avia, or an "ISF" level calibration. I wish we could assume that the final calibration in the factory were of a very good level, but that's unfortunately not so.


As for me, my own calibration with the disc is fine for me. I have the 34HS420 and I just have to wonder how much better an ISF trained type could make it look. And if the result would be worth the expense.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *justsc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Joseph,
> 
> 
> The calibration received at the factory falls well short of a customer's calibration with Avia, or an "ISF" level calibration. I wish we could assume that the final calibration in the factory were of a very good level, but that's unfortunately not so.
> 
> 
> As for me, my own calibration with the disc is fine for me. I have the 34HS420 and I just have to wonder how much better an ISF trained type could make it look. And if the result would be worth the expense.



Hi Justsc,


Yes, one never knows how much care went into calibration before leaving the factory. Besides the test patterns found on DVDs with THX optomizers and INHD, does the Avia disc include advance tests for what's in the service menu? And once completed would those calibrations be correct for all video sources?


Joe


----------



## ChrisDog6203




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChrisDog6203* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello.
> 
> I had my xbr960 for about three months and it's and incredible tv, but yesterday, my hdmi input stopped working for no apparent reason. I have a cox hd cable box hooked up to the input via a hdmi-dvi cable. I tried disconnecting and reconnecting it, but it still doesn't work. Also, the audio inputs for it aren't working either. Any help with this matter would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.



I was going to call Sony tech service in the morning, but I would first like to know if anyone else has had this problem and how it was resolved.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## jasMoney

I was hoping to grab this set from ABT electronics this week, but it seems that I was too late pulling the trigger -- their now out of stock. This is what happens when I try to include my wife on important decisions -- I wind up missing out on a great deal.


Anyway, B&H has the set at the same price that ABT had, but shipping and tax are pretty significant for me, almost an additional $300. Electronics Expo would be a bit cheaper (no tax). I've never dealt with either company, but I have heard that B&H is quite good -- I heard mixed reviews about ElectronicsExpo. I haven't seen the 960 in my area for a while (or for a reasonable price). Should I just order from B&H, or can anyone recommend a good online retailer that has a good price on the 960?


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Justsc,
> 
> 
> Yes, one never knows how much care went into calibration before leaving the factory. Besides the test patterns found on DVDs with THX optomizers and INHD, does the Avia disc include advance tests for what's in the service menu? And once completed would those calibrations be correct for all video sources?
> 
> 
> Joe



Yes - it does include test patterns needed to make many of the SM adjustments.


Each source should be calibrated independently of the others. Some settings are global, but each source should be calibrated on its own merits.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *justsc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes - it does include test patterns needed to make many of the SM adjustments.
> 
> 
> Each source should be calibrated independently of the others. Some settings are global, but each source should be calibrated on its own merits.



Hi Justsc,


Thanks for getting back to me regarding the disc. I am confused about one thing: if some SM adjustments need to be calibrated for each source how would I be able to use these test patterns on video 7 (HDMI) which is connected to a HD cable box and not a DVD player? Is the disc copy-protected or could it be recorded onto a HD DVR? Or are those global settings enough for the HD input?


Thanks again,

Joe


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jasMoney* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was hoping to grab this set from ABT electronics this week, but it seems that I was too late pulling the trigger -- their now out of stock. This is what happens when I try to include my wife on important decisions -- I wind up missing out on a great deal.
> 
> 
> Anyway, B&H has the set at the same price that ABT had, but shipping and tax are pretty significant for me, almost an additional $300. Electronics Expo would be a bit cheaper (no tax). I've never dealt with either company, but I have heard that B&H is quite good -- I heard mixed reviews about ElectronicsExpo. I haven't seen the 960 in my area for a while (or for a reasonable price). Should I just order from B&H, or can anyone recommend a good online retailer that has a good price on the 960?



Crutchfield still has it for $1,899 which includes free shipping and no tax. Better grab one while you can!


----------



## jasMoney




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Crutchfield still has it for $1,899 which includes free shipping and no tax. Better grab one while you can!



Well, I got lured in by Electronics-Expo low price and placed my order there. They're an authorized sony retailer so I shouldn't have any problem getting sony to honor their warrantee.


I still have a couple of decisions to make though. The first decision is about getting an extended warrantee. I don't usually get suckered into the extended warrantee, but I think I'm a little nervous about having ordered such a big, heavy item online. How many people here went for an extended warrantee and (more importantly) does anyone wish they did?


My next problem is that this TV just isn't going to fit in my current entertainment center, but I don't want to buy anything too expensive until we know where we are going to be living. My wife and I rent right now, but I'm finishing school this semester and don't know where I'll be heading for work yet. Can anyone recommend a stand that can support this monster plus several components? A darker color would be preferred and I'm looking to keep it around ~$100.


----------



## lewis

I usually don't get extended warranties but decided it was worth the additional expense for 2 reasons. Firstly after much deliberation I decided the 36XS955 was the better option for me. This beast is HEAVY weighing in at around 230lbs. There was no way I would want to have to cart that thing over to my local Sony repair center. Second, unlike the XBR which has the 2 year parts/labor warranty the XS only has 90 days labor and 1 yr parts. The extended coverage gives me over 4 yrs in home repair service. Its also transferable which adds value to the TV if I decide to sell it in the next 4 years (may happen if SED is as good as people say). Bottom line is that I hope I never need it but its there if I do.


----------



## squonk

The Sony outlet store in Aurora Ill had Sony XBR960s on blowout last month for $699--you read that right--and now they are gone. They were factory refurbished but the Sony guy told me on the phone that they call anything discontinued, blemished, package dent etc "factory refurbished". Needless to say, I wish I had known about this sooner. You Chicago people who missed out on this have to be kicking yourselves.


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Justsc,
> 
> 
> Thanks for getting back to me regarding the disc. I am confused about one thing: if some SM adjustments need to be calibrated for each source how would I be able to use these test patterns on video 7 (HDMI) which is connected to a HD cable box and not a DVD player? Is the disc copy-protected or could it be recorded onto a HD DVR? Or are those global settings enough for the HD input?
> 
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Joe



You pretty much have to copy the value(s) into the settings for that source and tweak to taste. I am not sure which settings are global and which are input dependent.


As for me, I used my Oppo upconverting dvd player to run Avia on Video 7. It came close enough for government work.


----------



## hillyerm

ABT Electronics took it off their website but still had two in stock as of 4:45 PM CST Tuesday. Now they have only one left because I just purchased one for the price mentioned in the earlier thread that referred to Kevin Robles.


----------



## jasMoney




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hillyerm* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ABT Electronics took it off their website but still had two in stock as of 4:45 PM CST Tuesday. Now they have only one left because I just purchased one for the price mentioned in the earlier thread that referred to Kevin Robles.



Congrats on getting one -- but I can't help but being annoyed that they told me that they didn't have any left yesterday.


edit: I just talked to Kevin and got the last one. I cancelled my order with electronics expo. Thanks hillyerm, you just saved me $100.


----------



## liquidneba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *squonk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Sony outlet store in Aurora Ill had Sony XBR960s on blowout last month for $699--you read that right--and now they are gone. They were factory refurbished but the Sony guy told me on the phone that they call anything discontinued, blemished, package dent etc "factory refurbished". Needless to say, I wish I had known about this sooner. You Chicago people who missed out on this have to be kicking yourselves.



Wow! I called both my local Circuit City stores, "out-of-stock," "discontinued". I guess I better hold on to the TV I have now. It's a shame, people who become enlightened to PQ now are pratically too late to own this beauty.


----------



## jude82

mine came today


----------



## BABA BOOEY

Set up my brand new 960N....placed in the corner of my room...with a definitive Technology Tower speaker approx 12 inches from each side of the TV.....Turned on TV and there was a great deal of electromagnetic inteference...turning sides of picture a wacky yellow or blue. What is odd is as I moved the speakers away from the sides of the TV ...the inteference actually got worse until I was several feet away. Unfortunately due to room layout, I can only have TV in corner within close proximity to my speakers. The resulting TV picture now has a yellow corner on the screen that does not go away...I have unplugged the set and let it sit for hours..only to turn it back on and see the yellow inteference still in the corner. Any help would be appreciated. Also as a newbie...is it just me ..or do the grey bars on each side of a 4:3 picture look terrible. Why can'yt they be black bars at least?


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BABA BOOEY* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Set up my brand new 960N....placed in the corner of my room...with a definitive Technology Tower speaker approx 12 inches from each side of the TV.....Turned on TV and there was a great deal of electromagnetic inteference...turning sides of picture a wacky yellow or blue. What is odd is as I moved the speakers away from the sides of the TV ...the inteference actually got worse until I was several feet away. Unfortunately due to room layout, I can only have TV in corner within close proximity to my speakers. The resulting TV picture now has a yellow corner on the screen that does not go away...I have unplugged the set and let it sit for hours..only to turn it back on and see the yellow inteference still in the corner. Any help would be appreciated. Also as a newbie...is it just me ..or do the grey bars on each side of a 4:3 picture look terrible. Why can'yt they be black bars at least?



Sounds like the Landing needs to be adjusted in the service menu,this might get rid of the yellow corner, do a search in this thread for Landing and you should get more info. .. as for the bars being grey on 4:3 sources they're not suppose to be, 4:3 has black bars on the sides ..maybe you have the tv's Brightness set way to high?


I have this pic showing my 960N & Standard cable, 4:3 mode set on Normal (black bars on sides): pic


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> Set up my brand new 960N....placed in the corner of my room...with a definitive Technology Tower speaker approx 12 inches from each side of the TV.....Turned on TV and there was a great deal of electromagnetic inteference...turning sides of picture a wacky yellow or blue. What is odd is as I moved the speakers away from the sides of the TV ...the inteference actually got worse until I was several feet away. Unfortunately due to room layout, I can only have TV in corner within close proximity to my speakers. The resulting TV picture now has a yellow corner on the screen that does not go away...I have unplugged the set and let it sit for hours..only to turn it back on and see the yellow inteference still in the corner. Any help would be appreciated. Also as a newbie...is it just me ..or do the grey bars on each side of a 4:3 picture look terrible. Why can'yt they be black bars at least?



uh?!*$#!???


its a CRT, you cannot have speakers(or any magnets) close to it, return it for another TV(non CRT) or move your speakers far away


----------



## Mathesar

Wow I jumped the gun when I read his post , didnt realise he had the speakers THAT close to the tv.


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins

Shielded speakers are OK to sit right next to the TV right?


Just double checking.... I got my 34XBR960 today and my speakers are right next to it (less than a foot away side to side.)


----------



## kny3twalker

shielded should be fine

unless you experience problems, then you will need to move them farther away


----------



## lzzy

Well I've been lookin for a good stand for the Xbr960 what do you all think about this one http://www.audio-video-furniture.com...2-AV-Stand.htm I like it because it's taller than most stands I've been looking at online. If anyone knows of a cool one post a link because I'll have mine coming in in about a week.


----------



## joebxr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lzzy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well I've been lookin for a good stand for the Xbr960 what do you all think about this one http://www.audio-video-furniture.com...2-AV-Stand.htm I like it because it's taller than most stands I've been looking at online. If anyone knows of a cool one post a link because I'll have mine coming in in about a week.



Look at the TECH CRAFT line on the same website. I bought the CABS41 and love it, because it has doors, shelves and the base actually swivels, too....and less expensive.


----------



## jude82

it got the z line stand from circuit city which has been suggested on here before. black with black tempered glass shelves. tv BARELY fits on it but it does. and plenty of room for about four components on the shelves. looks very sleek too. can be had for half the cost of the stand you linked.


----------



## hillyerm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *liquidneba* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wow! I called both my local Circuit City stores, "out-of-stock," "discontinued". I guess I better hold on to the TV I have now. It's a shame, people who become enlightened to PQ now are pratically too late to own this beauty.



Check with Best Buy. The salesman I spoke with when buying a stand was willing to beat what I had paid ABT. I stuck with the ABT purchase.


----------



## synyster

Ok, I maybe a little off topic, but I'm trying to get some decent componet cables to hook up my dvd player to my xbr960. I'm looking at Acoustic Research audio/video cables and I'm wanting to know the difference between the regular blue cables and the silver pro cables. The only description difference I see is "Multishielded design with two 95% copper braids and 100% aluminum Mylar foil". My question is should I go pro(is paying more for multishielded cables worth it?) or stick with the standard cables. Accessoriesforless has very excellent prices for AR cables...has anyone ever ordered from them before?


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *synyster* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok, I maybe a little off topic, but I'm trying to get some decent componet cables to hook up my dvd player to my xbr960.



I've had excellent experiences with a variety of cables purchased from the AVS sponsor Monoprice.com (click their teeny ad up at the top of this page). You will be shocked at how much less expensive the cables will be there, and they are good quality, too.


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hillyerm* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Check with Best Buy. The salesman I spoke with when buying a stand was willing to beat what I had paid ABT. I stuck with the ABT purchase.



All the Best Buys around me told me that the 34XBR960 appears in their computer as "out of stock and discontinued" (I called around.)


----------



## Mathesar

I was going to buy the XBR960 in town being Best Buy had it on sale ,but when I went there they were out of stock and said they wont be getting any more. I ended up buying it from Crutchfield. I'm just waiting for my 2nd one to arrive ..the first one ended up being defective


----------



## jude82




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *synyster* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok, I maybe a little off topic, but I'm trying to get some decent componet cables to hook up my dvd player to my xbr960. I'm looking at Acoustic Research audio/video cables and I'm wanting to know the difference between the regular blue cables and the silver pro cables. The only description difference I see is "Multishielded design with two 95% copper braids and 100% aluminum Mylar foil". My question is should I go pro(is paying more for multishielded cables worth it?) or stick with the standard cables. Accessoriesforless has very excellent prices for AR cables...has anyone ever ordered from them before?



i haven't been to accessoriesforless but if you want AR cables be sure to check prices on Buy.com as well. they carry all the AR cables for a VERY good price. it may not be better than what you've already found though. just a heads up. i ordered something from buy.com on saturday and it got here today.


i also ordered my cables from monoprice which also came today. they seem very well made and i can't wait to try them out.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lzzy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well I've been lookin for a good stand for the Xbr960 what do you all think about this one http://www.audio-video-furniture.com...2-AV-Stand.htm I like it because it's taller than most stands I've been looking at online. If anyone knows of a cool one post a link because I'll have mine coming in in about a week.



Mine sits on one of theses

http://www.audio-video-furniture.com...ector-9524.htm 


center channel sits on the middle shelf angled up slightly, DVD and AVR on the bottom shelf.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *synyster* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok, I maybe a little off topic, but I'm trying to get some decent componet cables to hook up my dvd player to my xbr960. I'm looking at Acoustic Research audio/video cables and I'm wanting to know the difference between the regular blue cables and the silver pro cables. The only description difference I see is "Multishielded design with two 95% copper braids and 100% aluminum Mylar foil". My question is should I go pro(is paying more for multishielded cables worth it?) or stick with the standard cables. Accessoriesforless has very excellent prices for AR cables...has anyone ever ordered from them before?



Another forum sponsor is Better Cables. More expensive than monoprice but it's nice to support those who support the forum.


----------



## kny3twalker

the overall quality of the cables is better though from companies like ramelectronics, bettercables and bluejeancables


although people may not be able to tell the difference in picture or sound


its still obvious that the quality and materials used in these cables are much better


monoprice cables look like the entry level RCA (generic-looking) cables to me


nothing wrong with buying whatever you want though


----------



## Mathesar

I was comparing the new Xbox 360 game Burnout Revenge on my FW900 PC CRT (VGA cable set @ 1280x720) to my XBR960N earlier (Component cable / 1080i) and all I gotta say is I really hope theres something wrong with my XBR, (The replacement should be here next week sometime), No matter how low I set the Picture setting it's burying white detail (or is it referred to as "crushing" whites?) , These comparison shots show what I mean, Notice how the skull on the car is basically white with no shade details while in the FW900 shot its showing the subtle shades on the skull , Also the game is just overall sharper / crisper looking on the FW900 (and this monitor was manufactured in 2002!) , Am I expecting to much from the 960? Please comment and heres the Link .

*UPDATE*: My replacement XBR960N arrived and does not crush whites or Bloom which allows for a brighter & sharper picture (I knew something had to be wrong with my previous 960!),Im very happy with the picture quality now


----------



## triumph66




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was comparing the new Xbox 360 game Burnout Revenge on my FW900 PC CRT (VGA cable set @ 1280x720) to my XBR960N earlier (Component cable / 1080i) and all I gotta say is I really hope theres something wrong with my XBR, (The replacement should be here next week sometime), No matter how low I set the Picture setting it's burying white detail (or is it referred to as "crushing" whites?) , These comparison shots show what I mean, Notice how the skull on the car is basically white with no shade details while in the FW900 shot its showing the subtle shades on the skull , Also the game is just overall sharper / crisper looking on the FW900 (and this monitor was manufactured in 2002!) , Am I expecting to much from the 960? Please comment and heres the Link .



720p IS sharper than 1080i.


Take a look at this: http://www.alvyray.com/DigitalTV/Naming_Proposal.htm


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stinky-Dinkins* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> All the Best Buys around me told me that the 34XBR960 appears in their computer as "out of stock and discontinued" (I called around.)




I was at a Best Buy yesterday and out of curiosity had someone I know check their cost and inventory for me. I can confirm it shows discontinued in their computer.


----------



## lzzy

Crutchfields all out. The end is coming soon....


----------



## DSperber

XBR960N still shows at DigitalCraze.


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> Take a look at this: http://www.alvyray.com/DigitalTV/Naming_Proposal.htm



that person is smoking crack IMO


720p = 1440p, and 1080i is 540i


he clearly does not understand the difference between interlaced in progressive


I mean I can see 540i at 60Hz maybe, but 1440p at 60Hz????



> Quote:
> I was comparing the new Xbox 360 game Burnout Revenge on my FW900 PC CRT (VGA cable set @ 1280x720) to my XBR960N earlier (Component cable / 1080i) and all I gotta say is I really hope theres something wrong with my XBR, (The replacement should be here next week sometime), No matter how low I set the Picture setting it's burying white detail (or is it referred to as "crushing" whites?) , These comparison shots show what I mean, Notice how the skull on the car is basically white with no shade details while in the FW900 shot its showing the subtle shades on the skull , Also the game is just overall sharper / crisper looking on the FW900 (and this monitor was manufactured in 2002!) , Am I expecting to much from the 960? Please comment and heres the Link.



how does the TV look for movies and TV? do you have the same white crush issues?


if not I would think the problem is the xbox

try letting the TV scale the 720p input


and really cannot believe you asked for a replacement (cause of a blurred face on a skull in a game)


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kny3twalker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> how does the TV look for movies and TV? do you have the same white crush issues?
> 
> 
> if not I would think the problem is the xbox
> 
> try letting the TV scale the 720p input
> 
> 
> and really cannot believe you asked for a replacement (cause of a blurred face on a skull in a game)



It does it with the Xbox set at 720P or 1080i , I asked for a replacement last Friday because of the flickering / interference problems when running 1080i / 720P ,You can even see it when looking at the memory stick screen , This white crush issue I just discovered last night and the skull pics were just an easy way to show the effect I was seeing in a lot of areas of the game.


If the replacement is anything like this im just going to get a refund , this is not the holy grail of CRTs I was hoping for and honestly Xbox360 looked better on my Sony HS510 which is unacceptable considering the 960's cost. But I'm going to hook up the 360 to my HS510 after work today just to verify if its my 960 or Xbox causing this white crush.

*UPDATE*: My replacement XBR960N arrived which does not have the flicker issues ,It also does not crush whites or Bloom which allows for a brighter & sharper picture (I knew something had to be wrong with my previous one!),Im very happy with the picture quality now


----------



## DaRiv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lzzy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well I've been lookin for a good stand for the Xbr960 what do you all think about this one http://www.audio-video-furniture.com...2-AV-Stand.htm I like it because it's taller than most stands I've been looking at online. If anyone knows of a cool one post a link because I'll have mine coming in in about a week.



these are on sale for the next week:

http://www.boltz.com/productinfo.asp...&deptcode1=503


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lzzy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Crutchfields all out. The end is coming soon....



If Crutchfield is out of it, that's the final nail in the coffin.


The retirement of the 960 is really sad but it also makes us a very elite group - who else can claim they have the set that is the standard for all others to compare to (while being less expensive than many Plasmas and HD rear projections)? Wonder how many will now wish they had the 960 after complaining about it's weight and bulkiness when compared to their flat panels? Don't like to gloat but it will be a source of vindication for us old-fashioned CRT aficionados.







.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If Crutchfield is out of it, that's the final nail in the coffin.
> 
> 
> The retirement of the 960 is really sad but it also makes us a very elite group - who else can claim they have the set that is the standard for all others to compare to (while being less expensive than many Plasmas and HD rear projections)? Wonder how many will now wish they had the 960 after complaining about it's weight and bulkiness when compared to their flat panels? Don't like to gloat but it will be a source of vindication for us old-fashioned CRT aficionados.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .




Man, it's really kind of hard to believe.


I'll echo a question Artwood asked in another thread: "Why is Sony so afraid of greatness?"


Sadly, I know the answer all too well.


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lzzy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Crutchfields all out. The end is coming soon....



Jesus.... guess I got in just in time.


I ordered mine from Crutchfield just a week and a half ago. Works perfectly so far.


Awesome set.


----------



## theanimala

Not sure if I have a bad DVD player, but I just got a new HDMI upconverting player and noticed that outputting 720P or 1080i results in a noticable loss of picture quality. Everything seems a bit blurred. Outputting 480P still looks sharp as a tack. Hidef through component on my HD cable box looks amazing. I expected 1080i from DVD to look similar to 480P, not several steps worse. I wasn't sure if I was alone with this...


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins

What player?


I'm using an Oppo set to 1080i, and it looks pretty damn good (not quite as sharp as the HD channels of course,) but it still looks better than the TV's scaler does when dealing with 480p.


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stinky-Dinkins* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Jesus.... guess I got in just in time.



Sad to see what seems to be the end of the line... at least for now. Just this weekend I had a friend (who dropped quite a bit of moolah on a plasma) say that the 960 was the best PQ he's ever seen. C'est la vie... mp3s, mini speaker Bose soundsystems, and flat panel tvs... not my primary drivers in a home setup but I guess I can understand the trend.


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *triumph66* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 720p IS sharper than 1080i.
> 
> 
> Take a look at this: http://www.alvyray.com/DigitalTV/Naming_Proposal.htm



I completely disagree. I've read the linked article many, many times. In fact, I was an ardent supporter of the point being made until I got my oan 34" Sony HD set, which runs at 1080i. Interestingly, I saw almost none of the flicker and artifacts mentioned in this piece. What I see with 1080i is crisp, clean and smooth video.


720p is not sharper than 1080i. Granted, for films, PS gives a "film-like" finish to the material that interlaced cannot provide. This is as tru with 480p as it is with 720p, but it is NOT sharper.


As for the comparisons with the skull - are you sure it's the white level that's giving you grief. From what I see, the details you are describing are not white, or a flavor of white and I just have to wonder if it isn't the black-level that's in need of adjustment. You might adjust the black level a bit either way and see if you can't dial it in a little better. It could also be color decoding as in the picture the color of the details seems to be more blue than anything else - I wonder if your color decoder could use some adjustment.


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stinky-Dinkins* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What player?
> 
> 
> I'm using an Oppo set to 1080i, and it looks pretty damn good (not quite as sharp as the HD channels of course,) but it still looks better than the TV's scaler does when dealing with 480p.



Same here - my Oppo outputs wonderful video.


I'm really curious to hear which player it is and how it's set-up. I also wonder if the OP calibrated for this player on this input...


----------



## darthdiddy

Greetings to all! I have been lurking around on this website for a couple of months and the information has proven to be invaluable. I am about to pull the trigger and buy the XBR960 but I would like to know if anyone here has had any experience ordering from B&H Photo. I can buy the 960 here locally for $1700 plus tax or I can get it delivered from B&H Photo for around $1560 shipped. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins

I went with Crutchfield, but here are a few replies in this thread about B&H Photo:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post7002715 


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post7138755 


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post6931631


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *darthdiddy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings to all! I have been lurking around on this website for a couple of months and the information has proven to be invaluable. I am about to pull the trigger and buy the XBR960 but I would like to know if anyone here has had any experience ordering from B&H Photo. I can buy the 960 here locally for $1700 plus tax or I can get it delivered from B&H Photo for around $1560 shipped. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.



Darth,


At this point, better get it wherever you can..., not many left.


----------



## darthdiddy

Thanks, I also plan on getting the OPPO DVD player but I understand that it only really shines using the DVI output and the XBR960 works best from component. Is there a "better" standard definition player for the 960 than the OPPO in the same price range?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *darthdiddy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks, I also plan on getting the OPPO DVD player but I understand that it only really shines using the DVI output and the XBR960 works best from component.



I'm sorry, where did you hear this? The HDMI on the 960 is phenomenal. Hook your Oppo via DVI-HDMI all the way.


That's the only way you can use the upscaling features of the player anyways. Well worth it.



> Quote:
> Is there a "better" standard definition player for the 960 than the OPPO in the same price range?



Not really.


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins

Yeah, I use the Oppo with a DVI-HDMI cable.


----------



## darthdiddy




> Quote:
> I'm sorry, where did you hear this? The HDMI on the 960 is phenomenal. Hook your Oppo via DVI-HDMI all the way.



I'm sorry, I could be misinformed but I thought I read on a post here that someone was getting beter picture quality out of component vs hdmi on the 960.


----------



## jvanhuis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *baller99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That price is for the 970 after checkng it out. Nobody is going to give you a 960 for 1100.



That's wasn't true as of a couple of weeks ago (on the tail end of the supply). I picked one up from Abt on their customer appreciation day for around 1100 pre-tax.


Unfortunately, it appears that the train has run its course on this set.


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *darthdiddy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm sorry, I could be misinformed but I thought I read on a post here that someone was getting beter picture quality out of component vs hdmi on the 960.



Maybe it was the source.


The Oppo shines through DVI.


----------



## CCMOO

OK. A really dumb question, I'm sure. I just got d* HD20 receiver. When I tune to an HD channel with the screen display set at normal, I only get a 4:3 screen. Shouldn't it automatically fill the screen with an HD wide pic?


----------



## gutwrencher

Sorry for not searching the threads(just out of hospital and don't feel well), but whats the difference between the 960 and the 970?


----------



## sharpZZZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gutwrencher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry for not searching the threads(just out of hospital and don't feel well), but whats the difference between the 960 and the 970?



960: Super fine pitch tube


970: Regular Trinitron HS420 tube.


The 970 is missing the CableCard and firewire. But it's $700 cheaper.


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins

The 960 is a better TV as it has the SFP tube. The 970 is a "successor" to the 960 in name only, it's more like the HS420 with a HD tuner.


EDIT: Didn't see it was already answered.


----------



## gutwrencher

Thanks...both of you. I see...so Sony was doggin' me. No surprise. I have been having a "red splotch" issue with 2 different 34xs's and they were willing to swap for either a new 42" LCD or the 970. Either way....PQ drop. This is so frustrating!


----------



## cornell_lingus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stinky-Dinkins* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> All the Best Buys around me told me that the 34XBR960 appears in their computer as "out of stock and discontinued" (I called around.)



I'd call the individual stores. Some BBs have them, some don't. I was in one last week and a different one Monday that had them on the shelf.


----------



## cornell_lingus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sharpZZZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 960: Super fine pitch tube
> 
> 
> 970: Regular Trinitron HS420 tube.
> 
> 
> The 970 is missing the CableCard and firewire. But it's $700 cheaper.



The 960 also has picture in picture


----------



## cornell_lingus

I got a refurb XBR960 through a Sony Outlet store for $899, 5 yr extended in-home warranty for $99 more.


----------



## synyster

Well I just my HD installed today, and while I am happy with the PQ, I'm dissapointed with the way 4:3 sources are now displayed with black bars on the left and right in Full mode. The only way I can get it to fill my screen is with horizontal expand, but there is obvious picture clipping when doing that. My question...is there anyway to display 4:3 pic sources using the full screen without clipping? Thanks.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *synyster* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well I just my HD installed today, and while I am happy with the PQ, I'm dissapointed with the way 4:3 sources are now displayed with black bars on the left and right in Full mode. The only way I can get it to fill my screen is with horizontal expand, but there is obvious picture clipping when doing that. My question...is there anyway to display 4:3 pic sources using the full screen without clipping? Thanks.



No, and that's the same truth for any 16:9 display.


----------



## pharmerphil

Ordered March 1 from ABT, arrived March 10. Took a bit long because I live 100 miles from any major metro city. Team Air sent it to Nashville, Tn. and they then had to hire a private "cartage" co. to get it to my house. The driver said they hired him to drive the 100 miles and my 960 was the only item he had in his delivery van. He did a nice job of getting it into my house, unpacking it, and helping me to lift it up on my TV table. This was standard shipping, not the optional "whiteglove" service. Both ABT Electronics and Team Air were commendable in their service. Thanks to all the input from people here at AVS, I now have a TV that has the best color and Picture Quality of any TV I have ever seen! I wouldn't have known about the SONY 960N nor ABT Electronics had it not been for this site. Thanks again. One last point, I'm not very "electronically versed" and was somewhat concerned about getting this set connected and going. It basically was make a couple antenna connections on the back, plug it in, put the batteries in the remote, turn the power on, and you're ready to watch TV. I'm very happy with the factory settings but may tweak them a little as I get accustomed to the remote and read the owner's manual. Yep, I'm one happy camper! Sure am glad you talked me into buying this set before most of the retailers ran out of them and the ABT $1,400 delivered price was Sweet!


----------



## RJRSW

If anyone is interested BB is closing out the Genuine Sony stand for the 960 for two hundred bucks off, in store only, check stock on their website. Click on the store pickup link to check availability in your area. I picked one up today, at that price it was worth it.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....&ref=16&loc=01


----------



## jude82




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *synyster* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well I just my HD installed today, and while I am happy with the PQ, I'm dissapointed with the way 4:3 sources are now displayed with black bars on the left and right in Full mode. The only way I can get it to fill my screen is with horizontal expand, but there is obvious picture clipping when doing that. My question...is there anyway to display 4:3 pic sources using the full screen without clipping? Thanks.



use full mode? i'm not sure what you are asking/expecting. you can't make 4:3 fill a 16:9 display without altering the picture some way. full mode will stretch it to fill the screen but you will notice the stretch. i just us normal mode and deal with the bars.


edit: i guess i misunderstood your question. i'm not sure why the tv displays bars in full mode. mine just stretches the picture to fill the screen.


----------



## kny3twalker

on HD stations 4:3 content is still displayed in full mode, this is noraml as the black bars you see are part of the broadcast, if it bothers you switch to the standard definition station so you can use widezoom or whatever


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kny3twalker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> on HD stations 4:3 content is still displayed in full mode, this is noraml as the black bars you see are part of the broadcast, if it bothers you switch to the standard definition station so you can use widezoom or whatever



Try your cable box. My HD DVR has a stetch setting for watching 4x3 material broadcast on a HD station. The stretch is proportional (unlike the 960's wide stretch used for digital stations) but at least it eliminates the black bars without cutting off too much on the edges.


----------



## kny3twalker

the XBR has full mode for horizontally stretching 480i/p content

and horizontal stretch for horitontally stretching 1080i/720p content


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RJRSW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If anyone is interested BB is closing out the Genuine Sony stand for the 960 for two hundred bucks off, in store only, check stock on their website. Click on the store pickup link to check availability in your area. I picked one up today, at that price it was worth it.
> 
> http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....&ref=16&loc=01



Just a note depending on how picky you are.


This stand was originally made for the 910 prior to the 960. It was a perfect color match. 910s were slightly darker.


When changing out to the 960, there is a slight mismatch in the darkness of the color - most would not notice - but if you had a 910 and then put a 960 in its place - it stands out.


Be warned if a slight variation such as that is a concern to you. Again, most except the fanatics would not notice it.


----------



## cornell_lingus

Just put my new XBR960 in a couple of days ago and have found a couple of local HD broadcasts. What an awesome picture! Definitely worth the drive and the trouble getting the monster in the living room.


----------



## theanimala




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stinky-Dinkins* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What player?
> 
> 
> I'm using an Oppo set to 1080i, and it looks pretty damn good (not quite as sharp as the HD channels of course,) but it still looks better than the TV's scaler does when dealing with 480p.



It's the Samsung DVD-HD755. 480P looks great, but the image becomes soft and looses detail when outputting 1080i. Not sure if it's the player or my set. HD through component (my cablebox) looks amazing though...


I did not calibrate for the DVI input though, althought I can't see it making a difference as it just seems way too "off".


----------



## lzzy

Just got my XBR960 today while I was at work. When I got home I was relieved to see that it was in fact the "N" model. I also checked for the manufacture date on back of the Tv which was February 2006. Sucks though cuz I still don't got a stand for it yet. So It's just sitting in the kitchen floor for now, lol. My first impression of this set compared to that of the 30xs955(returned to crutchfield) is that the 960 has a much cooler remote It looks really nice. I still couldn't understand why the xs955 remotes are so ugly looks like sony only spent about a dollar to make em. But that probly doesn't matter to some people since they upgrade to much better remotes anyways. And, the 4 extra inches makes such a huge difference I really underestimated the difference before. All in all I think it was a blessing(so to speak) that my 30xs955 had some very severe ghosting issues and I got another chance to pick a 960. I'll add some more later when I actually get it set up, hehe.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lzzy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just got my XBR960 today while I was at work. When I got home I was relieved to see that it was in fact the "N" model. I also checked for the manufacture date on back of the Tv which was February 2006. Sucks though cuz I still don't got a stand for it yet. So It's just sitting in the kitchen floor for now, lol. My first impression of this set compared to that of the 30xs955(returned to crutchfield) is that the 960 has a much cooler remote It looks really nice. I still couldn't understand why the xs955 remotes are so ugly looks like sony only spent about a dollar to make em. But that probly doesn't matter to some people since they upgrade to much better remotes anyways. And, the 4 extra inches makes such a huge difference I really underestimated the difference before. All in all I think it was a blessing(so to speak) that my 30xs955 had some very severe ghosting issues and I got another chance to pick a 960. I'll add some more later when I actually get it set up, hehe.



Izzy, congratulations on the new addition and glad you were still able to get one of the few 960's remaining on the market. My 960 replaced a 32 inch 4x3 toshiba which had the equivalent of a 29 inch 16x9 picture and while I was concerned that five extra inches would not make a major difference I was so happy to see how huge it really was.


Regarding the remote, I did not realize the center button needed to be pushed left, right etc. - I was pressing it downward on the appropriate edge (the norm on most joysticks) and could not make menu adjustments. Even customer service used the word "press" instead of "slide" or "push" so I didn't figure out my error after receiving a second remote and during my frustration stumbled on how to manuever by accident!










Joe


----------



## cornell_lingus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lzzy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just got my XBR960 today while I was at work. When I got home I was relieved to see that it was in fact the "N" model. I also checked for the manufacture date on back of the Tv which was February 2006. Sucks though cuz I still don't got a stand for it yet. So It's just sitting in the kitchen floor for now, lol. My first impression of this set compared to that of the 30xs955(returned to crutchfield) is that the 960 has a much cooler remote It looks really nice. I still couldn't understand why the xs955 remotes are so ugly looks like sony only spent about a dollar to make em. But that probly doesn't matter to some people since they upgrade to much better remotes anyways. And, the 4 extra inches makes such a huge difference I really underestimated the difference before. All in all I think it was a blessing(so to speak) that my 30xs955 had some very severe ghosting issues and I got another chance to pick a 960. I'll add some more later when I actually get it set up, hehe.



How many other TV owners can say they have a two-story remote?


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins

Watching movies like Sin City it seems as though there is a bit of ghosting on my 960N.... basically any movie where theere is a near black background and a light moving foreground.


Is this normal?


----------



## Schyler

I'm normally in lurk mode here, but I need to ask: Is there anywhere that the massive amount of 960 information in this thread has been compiled or organized?


There is so much great stuff here, but it can be daunting to find it.


It almost seems like the 960 should have a subforum of its own, instead of just a thread... one with a great big FAQ stickied at the top.










Thanks, by the way, for all the great info!


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stinky-Dinkins* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Watching movies like Sin City it seems as though there is a bit of ghosting on my 960N.... basically any movie where theere is a near black background and a light moving foreground.
> 
> 
> Is this normal?



If you are refering to a white object streaking across a black screen and leaving a "trail" of phosphors behind it, it has been mentioned several times in this thread. Use the "Search this thread" feature above, and search for terms such as "ghosting", "trailing", "streaking" and "phosphors" and you should be able to be able to get a quick summary.


As to whether it is normal... that is the $64,000.00 question. Several posters, whose opinions I respect, have posted that this categoricly does not occur on their sets. This leads me to believe that it is not normal... and may be a cause of individal set flaw, bad combination of components, settings or all of the above.


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins

Now that I've read those posts.... is there anyone that has ever got this "fixed?"


I've found several cases in this thread... they all say they'll report back when so-and-so happens.... and then there aren't any more posts.


If I can't get it fixed, I suppose I can live with it. It is distracting though.


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stinky-Dinkins* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now that I've read those posts.... is there anyone that has ever got this "fixed?"
> 
> 
> I've found several cases in this thread... they all say they'll report back when so-and-so happens.... and then there aren't any more posts.
> 
> 
> If I can't get it fixed, I suppose I can live with it. It is distracting though.



Hrm I havent noticed this on my 960N (yet), You mentioned it happens in the movie Sin City , I have this dvd if you can tell me a specific scene to look for Ill check it out.


----------



## gigaguy

I've never noticed this trailing on my 960 but I haven't been looking for it I guess. I love HD on this set. Mine manuf June 2005.


----------



## Q of BanditZ

Never seen any trailing here whatsoever, even before my ISF job.


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hrm I havent noticed this on my 960N (yet), You mentioned it happens in the movie SIN , I have this dvd if you can tell me a specific scene to look for Ill check it out.



Yep, It's most noticeable in Sin City.


From what I remember, in the beginning when Bruce Willis is going to rescue young Nancy... there's a scene where he knocks two thugs out with a crowbar (they're standing next to a corvette they stole and talking about it) or some kind of pipe. Right before he does this he's standing against a wall... and you can notice the trailing coming from his (white) head as it moves back and forth slightly against the dark background.


There's tons of examples in that movie... but that's one I can think of that's pretty close to the beginning while sitting here at work.


Sin City is probably the easiest DVD to use to see this effect... since it has lots of bright white objects moving against near black backgrounds.


----------



## greenland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stinky-Dinkins* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now that I've read those posts.... is there anyone that has ever got this "fixed?"
> 
> 
> I've found several cases in this thread... they all say they'll report back when so-and-so happens.... and then there aren't any more posts.
> 
> 
> If I can't get it fixed, I suppose I can live with it. It is distracting though.



On those several cases who never reported back: It might be worth while for you to PM each of them asking if they were able to have their sets fixed.


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Schyler* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm normally in lurk mode here, but I need to ask: Is there anywhere that the massive amount of 960 information in this thread has been compiled or organized?
> 
> 
> There is so much great stuff here, but it can be daunting to find it.
> 
> 
> It almost seems like the 960 should have a subforum of its own, instead of just a thread... one with a great big FAQ stickied at the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, by the way, for all the great info!



If this exists I'm unaware of it. Even though wading through the long threads can be trying, I get so much more out of reading all the posts, questions, answers, off-topic stuff - everything. There's just something intangible there that I don't pick-up from just facts.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *justsc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If this exists I'm unaware of it. Even though wading through the long threads can be trying, I get so much more out of reading all the posts, questions, answers, off-topic stuff - everything. There's just something intangible there that I don't pick-up from just facts.



CTRL F really helps in a lot of these threads as well. KenTech's thread being the best example.


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stinky-Dinkins* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yep, It's most noticeable in Sin City.
> 
> 
> From what I remember, in the beginning when Bruce Willis is going to rescue young Nancy... there's a scene where he knocks two thugs out with a crowbar (they're standing next to a corvette they stole and talking about it) or some kind of pipe. Right before he does this he's standing against a wall... and you can notice the trailing coming from his (white) head as it moves back and forth slightly against the dark background.
> 
> 
> There's tons of examples in that movie... but that's one I can think of that's pretty close to the beginning while sitting here at work.
> 
> 
> Sin City is probably the easiest DVD to use to see this effect... since it has lots of bright white objects moving against near black backgrounds.



Hrm I think I see what you're reffering to ,a very brief ghosting of white against a black backround , but its very subtle and I have to really look for it to notice , I didnt see it at all on the scene with Willis against the wall , But during the scene (alittle over 12 minutes into the movie) when willis gets shot for the 2nd time on the Dock and he says "I finally sit down like he told me to" , the next scene shows the girl kneel down in front of him, I could see a very brief trail coming from the top of her head as she kneeled.


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins

Yeah... the more I read in this thread the more I start to think it's like the rainbow effect on DLP's. Some see it some don't, but it's inherent to the set regardless.


I watch my TV in a completely dark room, and this seems to make it more noticeable (the TV has been calibrated using Avia so it's not as if I have funky settings causing it.... it's all set up using Pro, Monitor, Cinemotion, etc.) if you want to see it easily you can turn off the lights before you look for it.... but I warn you. Once you start seeing it you can't stop....


----------



## foxfan

Question:


Has anyone figured out a homemade way of fixing the "cold tuner problem" the 960 was faced with? I have that problem on occasion, but it would be pretty difficult to have it fixed "professionally". Since I'm in Canada, I would have to take the TV to the States (I'm currently in the second year of the two-year U.S. warranty), leave it there, then go back again to pick it up. Plus, I'm now worried that they might decide to exchange it for a 970, which lacks the firewire ports I use every day.


Anyone know how to fix the cold tuner problem on their own?


----------



## amd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *foxfan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anyone figured out a homemade way of fixing the "cold tuner problem" the 960 was faced with?



Is that where all the digital channels show "No Signal" after you first turn it on? I'm plagued with that problem, too, and would love to hear of a solution. The shop has already swapped out the Q-Box to no avail. I even had them swap out the unit for another, but that one had the same problem. To make matters worse, the shop can't reproduce the problem on either unit. They did apply some Sony-recommended patch to the signal board, but I wasn't able to get any details about it from the tech, nor did it help.


Any suggestions for what to do, besides continuing to pester the shop and Sony about it? I have a sinking feeling that's going to be a lost cause. The head tech at the shop is currently inclined to blame it on everything from an old antenna and lead to a conspiracy by broadcasters to force people to pay for digital content.


----------



## jude82

i have noticed the "ghosting" issue with my set. although i read about it and how it was normal as the phosphors decay much slower than they activate. so i was looking for it as soon as i got my set. i only really see it like when credits are rolling. it is also noticeable in scenes where the camera is focused closely on something light against a darker background. i can't really see any streaking, but it seems like it's difficult to focus on the image. i noticed this yesterday in gladiator when the camera was zoomed in on the horses moving into formation in the opening battle scene. it was hard to focus on the horses but once the camera panned out a bit it was fine.


so yeah, you can only really see it if you look for it. i decided before i bought it that it wasn't a big enough deal to prevent me from getting the set.


----------



## cornell_lingus

I was checking out the Index feature today and only my NTSC channels were showing up in the preview panes. The manual says that digital sources will not show up in the preview panes (p, 57). So OTA HDTV channels won't be in the preview pane but NTSC channels will?


----------



## andrd287

As far as the white on black streaking (mentioned by mathestar and stinky-d's), I have noticed this too on my XBR 960. Most noticeably on LOST episodes where it is night time and a persons face moves quickly across the screen. Also as movie credits roll, they seem to leave a faint white streak behind. I still am not sure if this is truly a screen effect or if it is my eyes trying to adjust from light to dark. I have not calibrated with Avia, or DVE, let alone ISF, but I hope that any of these will lessen or eliminate this effect.


Like the others, I hope to learn more about others experiences with this!


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins

I have calibrated with Avia... and have done a few other slight tweaks based on recommendations in this thread.


I can tell you one thing, it's not going away regardless of what settings you change.


I don't think it's a defect particular to my (or your) set based on all the reading about it I've done, I think it's the technology in general. I wish I had a pair of eyeballs that didn't notice it so easily.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stinky-Dinkins* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Watching movies like Sin City it seems as though there is a bit of ghosting on my 960N.... basically any movie where theere is a near black background and a light moving foreground.
> 
> 
> Is this normal?



I saw the first half hour or so of "Sin City" a week ago on HD but did not notice any ghosting (wasn't looking for it, of course). The film is still appearing on one of the premium movie channels so it would be good to catch it on HD to see if the ghosting appears in the same spot. If not, it could be due to the motion problems still occuring on some DVDs or DVD players. Have you noticed ghosting during end credits on films shown in HD?


----------



## kny3twalker

only sources I have ever seen ghosting on, is SD from DirecTV, or my mpeg compression recorded DirecTV shows from my PC


I have yet to see any from any high quality production DVD or any HDTV ghost

and then its only when light objects move across dark backgrounds with the above sources


the most noticable for me, is my recordings of BSG, SciFi is known to be overcompressed by every provider and then you have to zoom the picture to fill the screen and its been analogue captured and compressed to mpeg2


clearly not a great source, but I refuse to miss the show


clearly I should just buy the DVDs in this case


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Have you noticed ghosting during end credits on films shown in HD?



I see it in everything, even HD broadcasts.


Noticed it when watching 24 yesterday for example, I notice it when watching Lost, I notice it when watching broadcast HD movies, etc.


I'd love to look at a set that supposedly doesn't suffer from it, just to see if it's a defect in mine (and the others that are reporting it.) After reading reports in this thread of someone getting their first set fixed repeatedly and then replacing the set several times just to see if it would improve (and it didn't) I think I'll skip the hassle. I think it has to do with differences in our eyes more than differences in our sets.


I've read about it happening on past Sony HD CRT sets as well as sets from other brands (Panasonic, etc.)


In the end it's a complaint I can learn to live with on a long list of compliments.


----------



## foxfan

AMD:


Yes it is that issue. I find it particularly annoying since it makes it extremely more difficult to set-up a program to record in HD to D-VHS while I'm away. I can set the TV to turn on to a certain channel at a certain time, as well as set my remote to tell the VCR to record at the same time, but if the tuner isn't warmed up, I might be recording for the show's entire length with no signal. With the tuner problem, someone has to be there to turn the TV off and on before recording (and even that can take a few tries).


Once again, anyone have a fix for the cold tuner problem?


----------



## jasMoney

I'm 2 hours into my 4 hour delivery window on this set. The wait is killing me...


----------



## jasMoney

Wahoo! It's here!


It's pretty obvious that my TV has been in an unheated warehouse and is pretty cold to the touch. Should I wait a while before turning it on, so it can get to room temperature?


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jasMoney* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wahoo! It's here!
> 
> 
> It's pretty obvious that my TV has been in an unheated warehouse and is pretty cold to the touch. Should I wait a while before turning it on, so it can get to room temperature?



I wouldn't wait much more than an hour if that much.


Turn that baby on and get happy!


Cheers!


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cornell_lingus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was checking out the Index feature today and only my NTSC channels were showing up in the preview panes. The manual says that digital sources will not show up in the preview panes (p, 57). So OTA HDTV channels won't be in the preview pane but NTSC channels will?



That's right. Once the digital conversion is finished, goodby PIP and index. (Unless you have analog cable, I suppose.)



Mark


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *amd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anyone figured out a homemade way of fixing the "cold tuner problem" the 960 was faced with? I have that problem on occasion, but it would be pretty difficult to have it fixed "professionally". Since I'm in Canada, I would have to take the TV to the States (I'm currently in the second year of the two-year U.S. warranty), leave it there, then go back again to pick it up. Plus, I'm now worried that they might decide to exchange it for a 970, which lacks the firewire ports I use every day.
> 
> 
> Anyone know how to fix the cold tuner problem on their own?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *amd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is that where all the digital channels show "No Signal" after you first turn it on? I'm plagued with that problem, too, and would love to hear of a solution. The shop has already swapped out the Q-Box to no avail. I even had them swap out the unit for another, but that one had the same problem. To make matters worse, the shop can't reproduce the problem on either unit. They did apply some Sony-recommended patch to the signal board, but I wasn't able to get any details about it from the tech, nor did it help.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions for what to do, besides continuing to pester the shop and Sony about it? I have a sinking feeling that's going to be a lost cause. The head tech at the shop is currently inclined to blame it on everything from an old antenna and lead to a conspiracy by broadcasters to force people to pay for digital content.



Not sure what this problem is, but apparently it goes away after some warm-up period.


Well, the TV's not working properly. I would continue pursuing the repair. If the problem won't show up in the shop, I would take pictures--or perhaps videos--of the problem, so it's documented. And I would continue to escalate it until I got resolution.


IMHO, some "problems" discussed here and elsewhere are really picking nits. But your problems sound real, and you should not put up with this flaw.


Mark


----------



## Mathesar

My replacement XBR960N arrived from Crutchfield today and am pleased to discover not only is the flickering gone in 1080i/720p but this one does NOT bloom nearly as easily!! The one thing that bugged me most about my previous TV is no longer a problem , I wasn't expecting it to be any better with the replacement so this was a pleasant surprise , in fact even with the default Vivid mode the max contrast setting hardly blooms at all, my previous 960N would start blooming with the picture setting above 30 on Standard mode (white text became blurry etc.) so I was forced to always run darker settings (No wonder Xbox 360 looked so lackluster!)


Also the black levels on this one are noticeably better, I'm able to run my Xbox 360 @ Standard mode / Picture 41 / Brightness 43 and the black levels are still excellent , the overall picture is more vibrant & crisp due to lack of blooming.


I have a feeling my original tv had been returned before, the replacement had the tv's power cord neatly tied and connected to the back of the tv, my original did not, also this replacement had a noticeable 'electronics smell' for the first 20-30 minutes it was powered on ,my original did not do this at all.


I ran the long auto program cycle and it picked up all my usual analog & digital cable stations so the tuner appears to be in working order (seems to be a common complaint in this thread).


The only small negative I've noticed is that the geometry isnt as straight on the replacement ,the original would start to 'bow' in the upper right and lower right corners but otherwise was very straight, the replacement has this geometry bowing in all 4 corners but its not that bad at all.


Anyhow Im now officially a very happy XBR960N owner


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins

How easy to notice was your flickering in 1080i?


When you would be watching a movie what part would you notice flickering in?


----------



## keithos27

has this tv been discontinued?


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stinky-Dinkins* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How easy to notice was your flickering in 1080i?
> 
> 
> When you would be watching a movie what part would you notice flickering in?



I could pretty much see it on any 1080i material but it was most easily seen by looking at a solid grey backround , I even saw it on the grey backround of the Memory Stick screen, but a darker grey would reveal it even better, Before the Sony tech came out I loaded a solid dark grey backround on my Xbox 360 so he could easily see it, He also hooked up his own image generator and was able to see it with a grey scale pattern.


Its hard to explain but it looked like some type of interference pattern rapidly sweeping through the screen. This wasnt the same type of flicker you see on text with 1080i / 60hz refresh etc.


----------



## andrd287




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stinky-Dinkins* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I see it in everything, even HD broadcasts.
> 
> 
> Noticed it when watching 24 yesterday for example, I notice it when watching Lost, I notice it when watching broadcast HD movies, etc.
> 
> 
> I'd love to look at a set that supposedly doesn't suffer from it, just to see if it's a defect in mine (and the others that are reporting it.) After reading reports in this thread of someone getting their first set fixed repeatedly and then replacing the set several times just to see if it would improve (and it didn't) I think I'll skip the hassle. I think it has to do with differences in our eyes more than differences in our sets.
> 
> 
> I've read about it happening on past Sony HD CRT sets as well as sets from other brands (Panasonic, etc.)
> 
> 
> In the end it's a complaint I can learn to live with on a long list of compliments.




I am assuming that this effect is being caused by the phosphor coating being energized by a bright white beam, and as this area of the screen goes again immediately to black or some other dark color, the phosphors do not instantly de-energize but have a brief (but noticeable to some like us) fade out period.


Is this a simple explanation for this effect, and ultimately one of the flaws of CRT technology? What do you think, Stinky D and Mathesar?


----------



## cornell_lingus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BTV Mark* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's right. Once the digital conversion is finished, goodby PIP and index. (Unless you have analog cable, I suppose.)
> 
> 
> 
> Mark



Figures they'd screw us like that. One of the few HDTV sets to have PIP and the PIP will be all but worthless in two years. That's been one of the reasons I was reluctant to get into HD. The sets are being built with too many NTSC features. Good business plan for built-in obsolescence, but not so good for customers who'd like these expensive sets to still be fully capable after February, 2009.


----------



## kny3twalker

you will still be able to use composite, svideo, and component at 480i


analogue is not going away just because there will be no over the air analogue TV


----------



## cornell_lingus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kny3twalker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> you will still be able to use composite, svideo, and component at 480i
> 
> 
> analogue is not going away just because there will be no over the air analogue TV



Right, but the picture in picture will not show digital channels on the right side. Once the analog OTA channels are gone. your right PIP will only be good for your Video 1-4 inputs and the index won't be any good, either.


----------



## keithos27




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *keithos27* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> has this tv been discontinued?




anyone? i am unable to find it on the sony webstie or in their store... is a replacement coming out? is there a store selling these models for a good price now?


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *keithos27* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> anyone? i am unable to find it on the sony webstie or in their store... is a replacement coming out? is there a store selling these models for a good price now?



In a word, yes. Check the most recent 4 pages of this thread for details on dwindling supliers, etc. Also keep on eye on the CRT home page as several members have posted when they see a retailer that still has it. Quite a few will advise... stick with an authorized dealer, and avoid refurbs. IMO this is excellent advice.


As far a replacement, there is the 970. General consensus is that this is a replacement and not a successor. In a nutshell, suspected decrease in quality (based on specs), decrease in features and lower price. Again, this has been discussed ad nauseum in this thread and others in the CRT forum (search for "970" or "super fine pitch tube" for a wealth of info from the past few months.


Good luck in finding a 960, if that is what you choose.


----------



## keithos27

^thx... bummer to hear that... sony not seeing the sales they want? sounds stupid to discontineu the best tv they make?


----------



## pharmerphil

I'm still learning how to use my new 960N (I've had it for 6 days now). One thing I have noticed is the "delay" from the time I turn it "on" til the time the picture appears on the screen. I've timed it several times and it always takes 11 to 12 seconds from the time I push "on" til the TV actually comes on. I read the Owner's Manual and didn't see anything pertaining to this. Is this normal for this particular TV or is it a malfunction? Should I be concerned or not? Thanks.


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pharmerphil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm still learning how to use my new 960N (I've had it for 6 days now). One thing I have noticed is the "delay" from the time I turn it "on" til the time the picture appears on the screen. I've timed it several times and it always takes 11 to 12 seconds from the time I push "on" til the TV actually comes on. I read the Owner's Manual and didn't see anything pertaining to this. Is this normal for this particular TV or is it a malfunction? Should I be concerned or not? Thanks.



Yep this is normal , My original took that long and so does the replacement I recieved yesterday, the sound doesnt come on until just before the picture is displayed as well.


----------



## amd

Well, it does take a few seconds to boot up Linux when you turn the set on.


----------



## amd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BTV Mark* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not sure what this problem is, but apparently it goes away after some warm-up period.
> 
> 
> Well, the TV's not working properly. I would continue pursuing the repair. If the problem won't show up in the shop, I would take pictures--or perhaps videos--of the problem, so it's documented. And I would continue to escalate it until I got resolution.



A very brief warm-up period in my case. Most of the time, power-cycling the set within a few seconds clears up the problem.


Thanks for the advice. I kind of figured that persistence was going to be the way to get this resolved. Back to the phones.


Does anyone know the specific cause of this "cold tuner" problem? Swapping out the Q-Box is the standard fix, but that's a lot of circuitry. More specific information might at least help me figure out what part of my environment tickles the bug and help the shop reproduce it.


----------



## synyster




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *amd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is that where all the digital channels show "No Signal" after you first turn it on? I'm plagued with that problem, too, and would love to hear of a solution. The shop has already swapped out the Q-Box to no avail. I even had them swap out the unit for another, but that one had the same problem. To make matters worse, the shop can't reproduce the problem on either unit. They did apply some Sony-recommended patch to the signal board, but I wasn't able to get any details about it from the tech, nor did it help.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions for what to do, besides continuing to pester the shop and Sony about it? I have a sinking feeling that's going to be a lost cause. The head tech at the shop is currently inclined to blame it on everything from an old antenna and lead to a conspiracy by broadcasters to force people to pay for digital content.



What I've noticed is that some of those "no signal" channels will display certain programs during certain times. Dont know if thats the design of the TV or the actual channels themselves


----------



## synyster




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Try your cable box. My HD DVR has a stetch setting for watching 4x3 material broadcast on a HD station. The stretch is proportional (unlike the 960's wide stretch used for digital stations) but at least it eliminates the black bars without cutting off too much on the edges.



Thanks for the info. I have a Motorola box from Comcast and it does have a stretch menu for 4:3 content. But now I have another question. Right now I am using component cables to hook it up to the TV(until I get an HDMI cord), I see an option in the menu for YPbPr Output and it gives me the option of 1080i, 720p, 480p and 480i. I assume it would be best for me to go 1080i for this type of TV, or would 720p be better?


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> Thanks for the info. I have a Motorola box from Comcast and it does have a stretch menu for 4:3 content. But now I have another question. Right now I am using component cables to hook it up to the TV(until I get an HDMI cord), I see an option in the menu for YPbPr Output and it gives me the option of 1080i, 720p, 480p and 480i. I assume it would be best for me to go 1080i for this type of TV, or would 720p be better?



the bets option is pass thru the broadcasted signal unscaled, otherwise use 1080i


----------



## cornell_lingus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pharmerphil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm still learning how to use my new 960N (I've had it for 6 days now). One thing I have noticed is the "delay" from the time I turn it "on" til the time the picture appears on the screen. I've timed it several times and it always takes 11 to 12 seconds from the time I push "on" til the TV actually comes on. I read the Owner's Manual and didn't see anything pertaining to this. Is this normal for this particular TV or is it a malfunction? Should I be concerned or not? Thanks.



The manual says that is part an automatic degaussing process


----------



## Mathesar

Odd thing happened this morning when I turned on my 960, Im familiar with the degaussing sound on powerup but has anyone experienced a loud "pop" accompanied by a white flash on the screen? It did this not even 1 second after I hit the power button to turn it on, the tv powered up normaly and is working fine but ive never experienced this with any tv's before.


----------



## bbbobbb

I had this happen once as well. Sometime about the second or so week I owned it. Never happened again and it has been more than a year...


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bbbobbb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had this happen once as well. Sometime about the second or so week I owned it. Never happened again and it has been more than a year...



Well that's sort of a relief , Ive only had it 2 days so hopefully it doesn't become a problem as I'm very happy with the picture on this replacement, I was able to correct (for the most part) a pretty noticeable convergence error in the lower left via service menu yesterday and now everything is looking good, Thanks for the reply.


----------



## regor13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *synyster* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What I've noticed is that some of those "no signal" channels will display certain programs during certain times. Dont know if thats the design of the TV or the actual channels themselves




If you are using OTA insure that your antenna direction is right on, because sometimes it has to be in the exact position or the NO Signal will appear depending on distance to source of HD transmitter.


----------



## Mongoose

I purchased a 960 from ABT and received it a couple of days ago. It has an out of the box problem. The right side of the screen has a magenta blotch which gives a color cast to any light toned subject matter. It extends about 6" in from the right edge and extends down about 11" from the top edge of the screen. It is not caused by any sort of magnetic interference from a speaker or electronic component. It is always there and does not vary. I checked the Landing section of the service menu but was not able to ameliorate the problem. Interestingly, the RT adjustment had, apparently, already been adjusted to decrease this effect as much as possible. I think I'm going to have to contact Sony about repairing this. My question is does anyone know how Sony's tech support works. Can I choose a repair person or do they send someone of their own choosing. Obviously I'm hoping to find someone as knowledgable and helpful as I can.


----------



## mapson

Mongoose, did you try both RT and RB in the landing to adjust? Keep using the tv normally and you may see it improve with several degausses and adjustment in the landing category.


You have a couple ways to work with Sony support. Call the automated line or check online and you will most likely find several around your area that will service the tv. Call those to check if they do and will come out, etc. Example, I was given 3, one will only come out and haul away my tv, another will only service IF I bring it in. So I was really left with 1, who stunk. I had a particular servicer in mind and confirmed with them and Sony to find they will come out and service no problems. If you call Sony and speak with someone, they will log your issue with an event id and they will help you go from there.


----------



## Mongoose

Mapson, thanks for the response. Yes I did try RB as well. I was wondering if anyone in my area (Berkeley, CA) have any Sony support people to recommend. Thanks in advance.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mongoose* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I purchased a 960 from ABT and received it a couple of days ago. It has an out of the box problem. The right side of the screen has a magenta blotch which gives a color cast to any light toned subject matter. It extends about 6" in from the right edge and extends down about 11" from the top edge of the screen. It is not caused by any sort of magnetic interference from a speaker or electronic component.



Sounds like the shielding from one of the internal speakers came loose.


----------



## Mongoose

John you may be right. There is a small (1") crack in the corner of the plastic cabinet at the right top corner of the screen frame face. The white glove folks that Pegasus shipping sent to deliver this tv were surprisingly slight. They struggled mightily to wrestle this display up two flights of steps, finally carrying it face down the last half flight. I didn't notice the crack until after they'd left. Does anyone know if this speaker shield is easily acessable?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mongoose* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> John you may be right. There is a small (1") crack in the corner of the plastic cabinet at the right top corner of the screen frame face. The white glove folks that Pegasus shipping sent to deliver this tv were surprisingly slight. They struggled mightily to wrestle this display up two flights of steps, finally carrying it face down the last half flight. I didn't notice the crack until after they'd left. Does anyone know if this speaker shield is easily acessable?



Mongoose,


Sorry to hear of the problems with your new 960.


Since you received a physically damaged set you could be automaticly entitled to a replacement. If you would rather have the speaker shield (or whatever is actually causing the color distortion) fixed then don't try to access any internal part yourself - this could void the two-year warranty.


Hope everything gets resolved real quickly!


----------



## cornell_lingus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bbbobbb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had this happen once as well. Sometime about the second or so week I owned it. Never happened again and it has been more than a year...



Happened to me yesterday in the sixth day of operation. No problems noticed.


----------



## cornell_lingus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *regor13* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you are using OTA insure that your antenna direction is right on, because sometimes it has to be in the exact position or the NO Signal will appear depending on distance to source of HD transmitter.



I agree. I've had my set a week, using the Terk equivalent of the Silver Sensor indoors. My local ABC affliate's signal comes in pretty well as long as I'm pointed in the general direction of the tower, but I have to be dead on one way for my CBS signal and dead on another for Fox and NBC.


----------



## cornell_lingus

I was in a Best Buy store today and they still have the XBR960s. Price after discount or rebate is $1699. If you want one, you may just have to call the stores in your area rather than going through BB online.


----------



## jhirsche

I can attest to the fact that BB still has these (I got mine from them last weekend... an XBR960 (still - May'05) Ask to speak with the manager (like I did) -as they can probably do a little better on price than what's advertised in the store (take my word for it  Don't be afraid to be a little pushy either... they won't be selling these to their usual customers when the price they are asking makes getting some of the other lower-end, yet larger non-CRT displays a real value. If only everyone knew how good this set really is...


----------



## malagasang

Just got my 960N from ABT today . The PQ is perfect but I noticed that there are 4 missing screws, 1 on the left top and 3 on the left side of the tv. I don't know if I will return the TV or not. What do you think guys? Your comments/advise will be highly appreciated...thanks


----------



## cornell_lingus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malagasang* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just got my 960N from ABT today . The PQ is perfect but I noticed that there are 4 missing screws, 1 on the left top and 3 on the left side of the tv. I don't know if I will return the TV or not. What do you think guys? Your comments/advise will be highly appreciated...thanks



I'd report it so they can't use it against you if you need to press a warranty claim


----------



## regor13




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malagasang* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just got my 960N from ABT today . The PQ is perfect but I noticed that there are 4 missing screws, 1 on the left top and 3 on the left side of the tv. I don't know if I will return the TV or not. What do you think guys? Your comments/advise will be highly appreciated...thanks




There should only be screws where an arrow shows => pointing to the hole. If missing I'd return or get Sony to come out and check. Kind of shoddy workmanship as there are not too many screws in the total case.


----------



## jasMoney

How worried should I be about cat hair getting inside my set? I've had my 960 for almost 3 days now and the only ones who use my set more than I do are my cats. They love sitting on top of it, especially when it's turned on. Is cat hair likely to be more problematic than dust?


----------



## greenland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jasMoney* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How worried should I be about cat hair getting inside my set? I've had my 960 for almost 3 days now and the only ones who use my set more than I do are my cats. They love sitting on top of it, especially when it's turned on. Is cat hair likely to be more problematic than dust?



Cat hair might be the least of your problems, what if one of them decides to scent mark this new territory. Cat Urine causes Cat-Ass-Trophy. Electronics short out, fry the TV and the cats. Seems like there should be a less risky way for you to have some warm *****.


----------



## williamtassone

Thanks Greenland! I laughed so hard I sprayed my breakfast all over my desk!!!!


----------



## greenland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *williamtassone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Greenland! I laughed so hard I sprayed my breakfast all over my desk!!!!



Your very welcome mate. A spoonful of sugar to help the medicine go down. He would not get this quality of lifestyle guidance from any of your Oprah types.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *greenland* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Cat hair might be the least of your problems, what if one of them decides to scent mark this new territory. Cat Urine causes Cat-Ass-Trophy. Electronics short out, fry the TV and the cats. Seems like there should be a less risky way for you to have some warm *****.


----------



## S. Hiller

For those of you still looking to pick up a 34XBR960, check out Fry's Electronics. Might be able to get one heck of a deal on close out.


(For practical reasons, looks like my GDM-F520 will be my last tube. Alas...)


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins

I just got Adelphia's HD service....


The dude said that I should never watch 4:3 material with the black bars on the left and right, he said he's seen several of these burn in. All my settings are optimized (so it's in pro and yada yada yada) but he said adjusting the contrast and such doesn't affect whether the TV will suffer from burn in.


He also said that my TV "accepts" 720p but does not scale it to 1080i. He said there was no difference between accepts and displays. I just nodded my head and figured I'd wait to ask more knowledagble people.


Am I just out of my mind or is he completely wrong? I don't want to burn anything into my TV...


----------



## kny3twalker

your salesman was wrong on all accounts


----------



## motorhead7319

Does anyone know if the tv supports the HDCP copyright protection over the HDMI? thanks.


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins

Yes, it does.


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> Does anyone know if the tv supports the HDCP copyright protection over the HDMI? thanks.



all HDMI inputs support HDCP.


----------



## motorhead7319

Cool, i just picked up a brand new one tonight from bestbuy in the minnesota area. I love it. How do you tell if it is showing 1080i? I do see faint purple discoloration on the sides of mine too like someone else was talking about and widescreen movies seem to bow a little bit at the ends but i see others saying there are ways to fix that convergence issue through the service mode, ill have to look into that.


----------



## kny3twalker

hit the display button, it will say what the resolution of the source is


----------



## RJRSW

FYI: I was in one of the two Best Buy's in Tucson yesterday and they still had new 960's available at a discounted price and one open box 960 for even less, they also had one new Sony unopened stand for the 960 available at a big discount if anyone in Southern Arizona is looking.


----------



## motorhead7319

Well i cant say the "price" on here but i got it for lower than MSRP and i basically made a deal and got it for a hundred less than they were asking, they were more than eager to help.


----------



## motorhead7319

Would anyone care to share their settings after calibration with the avia disk? I know everyone sets the setting to pro but what about the other settings? I am confused as to what is it displaying and kny3twalker you said to hit the display button and i did and it just says input 5 on the top left and on the bottom it says full for full mode. I know in the set up it gives me three options, it has interlaced, progressive and cinemotion. I set mine on cinemotion for dvd player is that right? I have a high end sony player that is non progressive from a few years back its the dvpn7700 or something like that.


----------



## kny3twalker

it sounds like you have turned off the info bar


turn it back on the user menu, then you will get the larger display which states what resolution your TV is receiving


also the Sonys converts all inputs to 1080i, but initially 480i will be scaled to 480p or 960i though


----------



## kellen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jasMoney* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How worried should I be about cat hair getting inside my set? I've had my 960 for almost 3 days now and the only ones who use my set more than I do are my cats. They love sitting on top of it, especially when it's turned on. Is cat hair likely to be more problematic than dust?



Mine do the same thing. Not worried about them urinating, but the hair as well. I put a small towel over the top and left the sides open for ventilation. This is a temp fix, as I will probably get some speaker cloth, as it is nice and thin. Will keep the hair out, but let it vent.


Kellen


----------



## kellen

If you find one of these glorious sets at best buy, they will deal. January I picked one up for 1199 w/ no interest until 2009. Price was 1299 after match and then they had a 100 off if you signed up for cable.


Took me talking to 4 different people before someone would do both the cable discount and price match, but it was worth it.


When I was there in Jan, the NW warehouse had 50 or more of the 960s (not the 960N).


As for using this TV w/ a computer, I am using my new Mac Mini Dual Core right now and it is fantastic.


----------



## jasMoney




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kellen* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mine do the same thing. Not worried about them urinating, but the hair as well. I put a small towel over the top and left the sides open for ventilation. This is a temp fix, as I will probably get some speaker cloth, as it is nice and thin. Will keep the hair out, but let it vent.
> 
> 
> Kellen



Speaker cloth seems like a good solution. Thanks for the suggestion.


----------



## jhirsche

Kellen - Where were you when I needed a receipt for price matching when buying my XBR960 from BB here in Baltimore, MD last week? Didn't get them as low as you did, but I did alright. It did take some work on the manager though....


----------



## kellen

I can send you a copy of my receipt if you think they will lower it more. 30 day return policy and all. I still can't believe the kid did it. I dropped my girlfriend off to get a haircut and stopped by bestbuy. Around here in Seattle, they don't have the XBR960 in stock, only in the warehouses, but I asked the kid, expecting a no. He said he had two in the back for 1899 each.


I then mentioned video only (great store around here, reallllllly cheap, but when they let things go cheap, they never have it in stock) had the 960 for only 1349, new in box and they would pay the sales tax! I waited a day after looking at it, then it was gone when I came back. Best buy kid said he would match it, but not the sales tax. I asked about beating it by ten percent of the difference. He agreed (down to 1284). Then I asked about the Comcast cable sign up (100 off a tv over 1000), he said not on price matches. I took a chance and asked him to try it anyway, something along the lines of isn't comcast giving you the money for signin us up, so its their money. It didn't work. Then I asked him to dock the tv for 100, because I did have to sign up to see if the cable rebate would work. He reluctantly did (1184 + tax, around 1290).


The whole time I was expecting someone to come over and try to stop the thing. Luckily he was a manager at the ripe age of 20 something, so he didn't have to get some upper approval, who I am sure would have squashed the deal. I had previously went to 3 bestbuys and Circuit City and the best was they would match 1349, but I would still have to pay the tax.


The look on my girlfriends face when she realized what was in the back was great. Now trying to get it to my 3rd floor apt, that was interesting. Seems like the TV is only the beginning, since then I have added 6.1 surround, hd upconverting dvd player, hd cable w/ dvr and a MacMini (recording HD content when dvr is full, threads here have been quite helpful).


Today I just called the nearest Sony store and they just got rid of their last refurbished 960 for only 899. I thought I got a good deal, 899! I wish. I was hoping they had more. Amazon has one seller left at 1599 for a new one.


Good luck to all trying to find one.


Kellen


----------



## motorhead7319

The xbr960 i just recieved also is not an N model either but it was new. They used it for a picture shoot in one of their past flyers but it was never used and it definately seemed new. They were selling their open box for 1529.00 but i said i wanted to get out of the store at 1500.00 even so they lowered their asking price and i saved about 120.00 from what they wanted.


----------



## christophersj

Hi,


A friend and I, feeling pressed to the wall about the demise of the Kd-34xbr960, went to the Fry's near Burbank, CA and each bought one. They were the models with an "n" at the end of the model number. I think there are a couple left.


Here is my very brief report before some longer comments in the near future. I am a documentary editor in Los Angeles and wanted a set that could double as both a living room HDTV and a halfway-good professional monitor for editing HD on a Final Cut Pro system. I think it fits the bill. Here are a few comments:


1) My friend and I have both done the full consumer-level menu set-ups. Going out of Vivid mode, using Cinemotion with DVD, ect, ect. As reported many times on this forum, this first step makes a huge difference. Because I feel like the blacks are still a little "crushed" and there are some red halos around white text in the corners, I will either take the time to learn the Sony Service Menu or hire an ISF calibrator guy.


2) Once basically set up, the set produced the best HDTV picture I have seen outside of Star Wars Episode 3. I am watching Over The Air HD in Los Angeles. "West Wing" on NBC looked stunning.


3) I have never seen a DVD look better than on this set -- even with just a cheap DVD player using cheap component cables. Using the Progressive Cinemotion setting and carefully adjusting Brightness and Picture, and telling the player that it should be in 16x9 mode, produced the best Standard Def DVD image I have ever seen.


4) Even after using all of the consumer-level adjustments I could, I found my S-video connected DirecTV picture to be sub-par. It is just too much to expect such a compressed and abused SD signal to go on an HD screen. Posters here on this forum who claimed that Standard Def signals (other than DVDs), whether from Digital Broadcasts, or satellite translate well to this Sony set are just not telling the truth. My 12 year old Sony XBR kicks the ass of the 960 up and down the street when displaying DirecTV. There just isnt a debate to be had about this.


5) On the whole this television is incredible and I am thrilled to be a part of the enthusiastic community around it.


-Christopher Johnson


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *christophersj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ...It is just too much to expect such a compressed and abused SD signal to go on an HD screen. Posters here on this forum who claimed that Standard Def signals (other than DVDs), whether from Digital Broadcasts, or satellite translate well to this Sony set are just not telling the truth. My 12 year old Sony XBR kicks the ass of the 960 up and down the street when displaying DirecTV. There just isnt a debate to be had about this....
> 
> 
> -Christopher Johnson



This is simply just not true. I have never seen analog and digital cable as good as it is on my 34" Sony set. And my previous sets produce excellent picture quality. If you get and properly use Avia or DVE, you can get "SD" picture quality as good as on any analog tv.


----------



## mr2828

I agree with justsc.


If you are a DirecTV customer, perhaps you just do not realize quite how badly they have begun mangling SD channels over the past several years. Dish Network does the same. It's utterly disgusting, and I stopped paying for it over a year ago.


Go read some of the reports from folks lucky enough to have FiOS installed at their house - the SD picture looks as good as a DVD. And that's pretty much how satellite tv used to look back when Dish started up. But they steadily degraded the picture year after year, and many customers just got used to it. Open your eyes.


----------



## baller99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *christophersj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4) Even after using all of the consumer-level adjustments I could, I found my S-video connected DirecTV picture to be sub-par. It is just too much to expect such a compressed and abused SD signal to go on an HD screen. Posters here on this forum who claimed that Standard Def signals (other than DVDs), whether from Digital Broadcasts, or satellite translate well to this Sony set are just not telling the truth. My 12 year old Sony XBR kicks the ass of the 960 up and down the street when displaying DirecTV. There just isnt a debate to be had about this.



Your older sony "kicks the ass of the 960 up and down" because it has inferior picture quality.


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> I am a documentary editor in Los Angeles and wanted a set that could double as both a living room HDTV and a halfway-good professional monitor for editing HD on a Final Cut Pro system. I think it fits the bill.



if you expect to use this 1080i monitor as a PC monitor, good luck

the Sony scales everything to 1080i so unless you use a really low resolution like 640x480p, you will not be able to read the small blurry text at 1080i, also no matter what you try it will never look like a PC CRT monitor


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *christophersj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> 4) Even after using all of the consumer-level adjustments I could, I found my S-video connected DirecTV picture to be sub-par. It is just too much to expect such a compressed and abused SD signal to go on an HD screen. Posters here on this forum who claimed that Standard Def signals (other than DVDs), whether from Digital Broadcasts, or satellite translate well to this Sony set are just not telling the truth. My 12 year old Sony XBR kicks the ass of the 960 up and down the street when displaying DirecTV. There just isnt a debate to be had about this.
> 
> 
> -Christopher Johnson



Clearly this set is not for you. Take it back and move on to something you like with SD signals.


----------



## bbbobbb

I usually stay out of childish discussions where the seemingly trampled manhood of those with low self esteem begets stupid posts....but come on. ChristophersJ said 4 really nice things about our 34XBR's/Corvettes/ and several "owners" have jumped all over him. Why? Who cares, did some one eat your wheaties today?

*It's a TV!*


Would you say these things to him in person? Get a life, if someone disagrees with you your repsonse is to tell him to take his toys and play elsewhere? You must have skipped kindergarten....


Signed, a happy 34XBR owner who can handle other peoples views...

BB


----------



## kellen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kny3twalker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> if you expect to use this 1080i monitor as a PC monitor, good luck
> 
> the Sony scales everything to 1080i so unless you use a really low resolution like 640x480p, you will not be able to read the small blurry text at 1080i, also no matter what you try it will never look like a PC CRT monitor



I have been using it as a monitor for over 2 weeks now with no problems. I have a Mac Mini Intel Duo Core hooked up to my XBR via the HDMI (mac has dvi out). The apple has a bunch display configs built in and the 1268 x 760 (if I recall) looks great. Giving the tv a native 1080 is too small and your desktop is huge. There are display config programs that allow you adjust it to a specific setting, but I found one that works right out of the box.


I sit only 7 feet away and don't have a problem reading text and using the computer. There are tricks to it, increasing fonts on webpages and such, but some items you can't and it is still fine.


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> I have been using it as a monitor for over 2 weeks now with no problems. I have a Mac Mini Intel Duo Core hooked up to my XBR via the HDMI (mac has dvi out). The apple has a bunch display configs built in and the 1268 x 760 (if I recall) looks great. Giving the tv a native 1080 is too small and your desktop is huge. There are display config programs that allow you adjust it to a specific setting, but I found one that works right out of the box.



well I have to disagree the soften image resulted from scaling a 720p input to 1080i looks horrible IMO, not sharp like a PC monitor and the flicker (causes it interlaced) is annoying and gives me a headache


the XBR will not take 1268x760 as input, so I am not really sure what that is


and then there is overscan, and the solution that video card makers have choosen is to scale the viewable desktop to a certain resolution but still send the TV the full HD format, this means there is more scaling going, unless the display is multi-sync or accepts 1:1 mapping like on digital displays, the softer flickery desktop on a CRT is just aweful


I have had mine connected for a year and a half, and its only for MCE (Windows Media Center) I do not surf, or write documents on my TV

I have tried just about every resolution the TV will accept and messed with powerstrip etc...

and there is no way, this is an acceptable solution, I mean you could do the same



> Quote:
> There are tricks to it, increasing fonts on webpages and such, but some items you can't and it is still fine.



on a SDTV but it does not change the fact it looks like crap


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kellen* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you find one of these glorious sets at best buy, they will deal. January I picked one up for 1199 w/ no interest until 2009. Price was 1299 after match and then they had a 100 off if you signed up for cable.
> 
> 
> Took me talking to 4 different people before someone would do both the cable discount and price match, but it was worth it.
> 
> 
> When I was there in Jan, the NW warehouse had 50 or more of the 960s (not the 960N).
> 
> 
> As for using this TV w/ a computer, I am using my new Mac Mini Dual Core right now and it is fantastic.



BestBuy has never shown 960N in their computers so they probably never carried them.


----------



## kellen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kny3twalker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> well I have to disagree the soften image resulted from scaling a 720p input to 1080i looks horrible IMO, not sharp like a PC monitor and the flicker (causes it interlaced) is annoying and gives me a headache
> 
> 
> the XBR will not take 1268x760 as input, so I am not really sure what that is
> 
> 
> and then there is overscan, and the solution that video card makers have choosen is to scale the viewable desktop to a certain resolution but still send the TV the full HD format, this means there is more scaling going, unless the display is multi-sync or accepts 1:1 mapping like on digital displays, the softer flickery desktop on a CRT is just aweful
> 
> 
> I have had mine connected for a year and a half, and its only for MCE (Windows Media Center) I do not surf, or write documents on my TV
> 
> I have tried just about every resolution the TV will accept and messed with powerstrip etc...
> 
> and there is no way, this is an acceptable solution, I mean you could do the same
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on a SDTV but it does not change the fact it looks like crap




Just fired up the Mac Mini so I could be sure of the res. The resolution it is putting out is 1280 x 720, 60Hz (NTSC) with colors in the millions. Overscan is left unchecked in the box. There is no flicker at all (looks like a big monitor). It says it is not giving it an interlaced signal, as there is a 1920 x 1080 and a 720x480 that say interlaced, while my res of 1280 x 720 doesn't. If you hop over to the home theater pc section, there are many happy users who have this computer hooked up to their tv, I think one person even started a thread specifically about using this tv. If you would like, I could take a pic of the screen. Also when I hit the display button on the tv, it shows it is getting a 720p signal (yeah I know it only displays 1080i).


To each their own.


Kellen


----------



## christophersj

Wow, I am surprised at some of the aggressive replies and some of the misplaced assumptions in them. My intent was to deliver a short and honest overview of my likes and dislikes about the 960. I didn't realize that this was a forum for praise only (and I dished out so much praise too). What part of "this television is incredible and I am thrilled to be a part of the enthusiastic community around it" didn't translate?


I'll take a moment to clarify a few points and leave it be.


First of all I would like to soften my words about other posters not telling the truth about SD performance on the 960. Clearly this is a matter that IS up for debate (for which I am open to) and not a closed case as I made it seem. It appears to be one of the more subjective topics here with many people on either side. I guess it comes down to a matter of taste. I now realize that there are more than a few others who see it differently. Cool.


I will re-word it this way:


For my personal taste, HD and SD DVDs are stunning on this set. I love it. I dont think there is anything better I could have gotten. However, even after careful adjustments of the consumer-level menus, I found SD pictures from DirecTV and digital OTA to be:


A) Softer/Muddier

B) strange interlace aliasing and buzzing

C) reduced and smeared colors, lack of depth

D) much more point-of-source digital compression artifacts like macro-blocking and mosquito noise. ( it is present on the old analog Sony as well, but the quality of the 960 reveals more garbage)


Please understand, I don't think this is the fault of the Sony set at all, but rather, the inherent limitations of the originating signal blown up to 1080 lines. Its like zooming past 100% with a digital photo in Photoshop. Its always gonna get ugly just because you are violating the the format and putting it in a universe it doesn't belong in. No blame here, just the laws of physics. If I took some really nice 16mm film and blew it up to IMAX, it would look awful. Same difference.


In addition to all of that I would have to say that my hunch is that the 960 is doing a better job than a cheap HD LCD display would do with the same SD signal. But in my personal opinion it is a losing race from the get go, and I warn all HDTV buyers.


And all of this is fine with me because I know I am an early adopter of HD and the U.S. is straddling the fence right now. I'm a big boy and can put up with this awkward arrangement of TV signals. My friends come over to my place to watch "24" in HD, and I will now go over to their place to watch "The Shield" in SD on my old Sony 31" XBR I just gave them. Each environment is superior in its own way for now.


OK, so now for some specific clarifications:



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Clearly this set is not for you. Take it back and move on to something you like with SD signals.



No, clearly it IS for me because I realize what the power of this model is and what its strengths are. I am very happy with it and will use it in the appropriate environments where it shines. Its a brilliant set for HD, DVDs, and editing of HD television at home. Are you kidding? It is PERFECT for me.


But I will go over to my friend's to watch "The Shield" and turn the 960 off.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr2828* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you are a DirecTV customer, perhaps you just do not realize quite how badly they have begun mangling SD channels over the past several years. Dish Network does the same. It's utterly disgusting, and I stopped paying for it over a year ago.
> 
> 
> Go read some of the reports from folks lucky enough to have FiOS installed at their house - the SD picture looks as good as a DVD. And that's pretty much how satellite tv used to look back when Dish started up. But they steadily degraded the picture year after year, and many customers just got used to it. Open your eyes.



Yes, I am very aware of the over compressing issues at Dish Network and DirecTV. Painfully so for years. I could write paragraphs about it in detail. My eyes have been open for a long time. My employers require it of me when I edit and color correct documentaries for television.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *baller99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Your older sony "kicks the ass of the 960 up and down" because it has inferior picture quality.



Yes. Exactly so. That is the point I was trying to make: that the 960 is "too high end" to display the SD broadcast signals very well. When the quality of the tube and the signal are matched, they sing! We are in agreement.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bbbobbb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I usually stay out of childish discussions where the seemingly trampled manhood of those with low self esteem begets stupid posts....but come on. ChristophersJ said 4 really nice things about our 34XBR's/Corvettes/ and several "owners" have jumped all over him. Why? Who cares, did some one eat your wheaties today?
> 
> *It's a TV!*
> 
> 
> Would you say these things to him in person? Get a life, if someone disagrees with you your repsonse is to tell him to take his toys and play elsewhere? You must have skipped kindergarten....
> 
> 
> Signed, a happy 34XBR owner who can handle other peoples views...
> 
> BB



Amen, brother.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kny3twalker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> if you expect to use this 1080i monitor as a PC monitor, good luck
> 
> the Sony scales everything to 1080i so unless you use a really low resolution like 640x480p, you will not be able to read the small blurry text at 1080i, also no matter what you try it will never look like a PC CRT monitor



No, I want to use it as the HD monitor to view the HD output from the edit system (I'll be editing HD documentaries starting this year), not use it as a computer monitor. I use an amazing Dell LCD hooked up to my Mac for that. And that is all the more reason for wanting to fix the little imperfections with the Service Menu. Several other professional video engineers and editors have been skeptical of my plan saying that no consumer tube would do, but I think the 960 will be fine in all but the most critical cases.


-Christopher Johnson


----------



## PeteH579

I find a very wide range of quality on DirectV SD channels.


Premium channels sometimes are many times clearer than say TVland showing old reruns.


Some channels look as bad as an old standard VHS copied tape that has been compressed to boot.


When I setup my 960N for SD I looked for the best channels. I think D*tv modifies the band width (compression ) depending on how many viewers a channel has.


----------



## pharmerphil

I've had my 960N for 2 wks. now. Very happy with it thus far. One thing I have noticed is the very poor picture quality I receive on Fox network via Dish SD. Peoples faces appear to be "morphing", especially on close-ups. On the Fox series 24 you can really see this. Hard to describe but it's like their faces are contorting, or visible movement/shadowing in their facial features. Anyone else notice this?


----------



## PeteH579

I don't have Dish but D*tv has a few HD channels ( about 10 ).

Some are fantastic like DiscoveryHD but TNTHD is a distorted HD representation.


Its been stretched by TNT presumably and has the same distorted faces you describe.


Its actually hard to watch. The picture quality is HD but everything is zoomed.


Fox cable is the worst quality SD channel on D*tv. Some locals that are being picked up and downlinked by satellite suffer a bit also.


Its not the TV


----------



## Joseph Dubin

"Yes, I am very aware of the over compressing issues at Dish Network and DirecTV. Painfully so for years. I could write paragraphs about it in detail. My eyes have been open for a long time. My employers require it of me when I edit and color correct documentaries for television".


Hi Chris,


Besides compression could SD and digital seem less up to par because the dish is connected via s-cable? For us, all stations are fed through a HD cable box connected via HDMI and the non-HD stations look great, considering their limitations.


Enjoy your new 960.


- Joe


----------



## christophersj

Hi Joseph,


That is a very good point. An HDTV has a tough enough job scaling an SD picture up to HD, but then it also needs to use its own on-board analog to digital conversion to "digitize" the signal. That's two big jobs at the same time.


Here is a test of your theory: I can tune in a digital OTA 480i broadcast with my antenna. That is a digital path all of the way. It looks much better than the S-video DirecTV. Not as good as my Sony XBR analog set but it is a definite improvement. So I think your idea is indeed a part of the story. My bet is that at least half of the things I find distasteful are because of the analog to digital conversion. The rest is because of the inherent lack of substance in the satellite NTSC picture because of compression, and the artificial upscaling the 960 has to do.


You know when I shrink the SD signal down, when it is in Twin View (in a smaller box), it looks fantastic! This is probably because it is closer to using just 480 pixels -- its natural state.


-Christopher Johnson


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *christophersj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Joseph,
> 
> 
> That is a very good point. An HDTV has a tough enough job scaling an SD picture up to HD, but then it also needs to use its own on-board analog to digital conversion to "digitize" the signal. That's two big jobs at the same time.
> 
> 
> Here is a test of your theory: I can tune in a digital OTA 480i broadcast with my antenna. That is a digital path all of the way. It looks much better than the S-video DirecTV. Not as good as my Sony XBR analog set but it is a definite improvement. So I think your idea is indeed a part of the story. My bet is that at least half of the things I find distasteful are because of the analog to digital conversion. The rest is because of the inherent lack of substance in the satellite NTSC picture because of compression, and the artificial upscaling the 960 has to do.
> 
> 
> You know when I shrink the SD signal down, when it is in Twin View (in a smaller box), it looks fantastic! This is probably because it is closer to using just 480 pixels -- its natural state.
> 
> 
> -Christopher Johnson




Hi Chris,


Glad I have someone to prove my theory correct!


One problem is that the 960 brings out the best, but also the limitations, of non-HD material.


Another problem is the human element. After viewing HD and DVDs it's difficult to judge the quality of digital or SD programming. For example, last night's ESPN broadcast of the WBC looked great but oh how awful it looked when viewed just in digital (but, had we not watched the HD broadcast it would not have appeared so bad to us).


Again, enjoy your new 960 and glad I was able to help a bit.


Joe


----------



## cornell_lingus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *christophersj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Joseph,
> 
> 
> That is a very good point. An HDTV has a tough enough job scaling an SD picture up to HD, but then it also needs to use its own on-board analog to digital conversion to "digitize" the signal. That's two big jobs at the same time.
> 
> 
> Here is a test of your theory: I can tune in a digital OTA 480i broadcast with my antenna. That is a digital path all of the way. It looks much better than the S-video DirecTV. Not as good as my Sony XBR analog set but it is a definite improvement. So I think your idea is indeed a part of the story. My bet is that at least half of the things I find distasteful are because of the analog to digital conversion. The rest is because of the inherent lack of substance in the satellite NTSC picture because of compression, and the artificial upscaling the 960 has to do.
> 
> 
> You know when I shrink the SD signal down, when it is in Twin View (in a smaller box), it looks fantastic! This is probably because it is closer to using just 480 pixels -- its natural state.
> 
> 
> -Christopher Johnson



I definitely agree with that last paragraph. When I watch my satellite in PIP it looks fantastic. Maybe our TV model is just too good.


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bbbobbb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I usually stay out of childish discussions...



Nothing childish until this post...










> Quote:
> ...Would you say these things to him in person?



Yep. It's a simple disagreement over one little point. "Get a life."



> Quote:
> *It's a TV!*



No, really?



> Quote:
> ...You must have skipped kindergarten....



As a matter of fact, I did skip kindergarten.



> Quote:
> Signed, a happy 34XBR owner who can handle other peoples views...
> 
> BB



Apparently not - at least not the views of the folks that disagreed with christophersj.


----------



## motorhead7319

I have a question that is probably silly but hey why not ask. Would a person be able to put any type of new chip/board in the 960 in the future to make it able to output 1080p or is the screen unable to do it? I am also referring to someone who has technical expertise on doing this. Also is there some way to get an older dvd player to upconvert signals to 1080i if you put some type of new chip or processor in it and an hdmi output? I know some people will say well go buy a newer dvd player ect but i am just curious if it can be done.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bbbobbb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Would you say these things to him in person? Get a life, if someone disagrees with you your repsonse is to tell him to take his toys and play elsewhere? You must have skipped kindergarten....
> 
> 
> Signed, a happy 34XBR owner who can handle other peoples views...
> 
> BB



YES, I would say it to ANYONE in person. If someone pays $1K+ for something and they are not happy with it I'm going to tell them to take it back and get something that they are happy with. There are too many choices available to buy stuff and then complain about it.


He didn't disagree with any of my responses nor I his. He complained about the SD picture quality and I recommended he try another TV.


Perhaps you should get a life and go back to kindergarten to help improve your ed-ju-mi-cay-sion since you clearly missed what took place.


----------



## christophersj

No, actually bbbobbb was kind of right. We may have mistaken your guys' tone but it sounded overly aggressive and immature. If you didnt intend it, then fine, but at least two of us read it that way.


I think any thorough reading of my post would reveal that I have both an informed and realistic opinion of this HDTV and that I love it for what it is. I like it. That's why I'm here when there are so many other things I could be doing with my time.


This in-between state of SD and HD we are all living in for these few years is awkward, both technically and as a viewer. If we cannot talk about some of the limitations of these cool machines, then how valuable and complete can this conversation really be? How is progress made without evaluation? It just becomes a gushy fan page like Tiger Beat magazine if this dialog is not inquisitive, intellectually curious, and whole. Coming from the professional video world, I thought my opinion might have something to add to the conversation about the 960.


Can you imagine if you were on a forum about performance cars and one poster wrote that he loved his new Mustang and its torque, that he was really loving the car, but found that he was irritated to discover it had horrible gas milage. And then another poster responded and asked in a huff why he didnt just get another car and stop complaining. It would be like the opposite of a true dialog.


I found Joseph Dubin's response about the SD problem much more constructive.


So, in conclusion, I can say that, after having the set for three days, I chose to watch "The Shield" on the analog set tonight and am glad I did. But this weekend, my friends are coming over to watch DVD's and HD on the 960 because we all think it rocks those formats better than anything else! Wouldnt it be great if our constructive dialog here helped influence more cable channels like FX and SciFi to go HD?


-Christopher


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *christophersj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I found Joseph Dubin's response about the SD problem much more constructive. -Christopher




So did I LOL.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *christophersj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No, actually bbbobbb was kind of right. We may have mistaken your guys' tone but it sounded overly aggressive and immature. If you didnt intend it, then fine, but at least two of us read it that way.
> 
> 
> I think any thorough reading of my post would reveal that I have both an informed and realistic opinion of this HDTV and that I love it for what it is. I like it. That's why I'm here when there are so many other things I could be doing with my time.



Not to get into a shouting match over this, but let's make sure we are accurately representing what was said.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *christophersj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Posters here on this forum who claimed that Standard Def signals (other than DVDs), whether from Digital Broadcasts, or satellite translate well to this Sony set are just not telling the truth. My 12 year old Sony XBR kicks the ass of the 960 up and down the street when displaying DirecTV. There just isnt a debate to be had about this.



Sounds to me like you just called a bunch of people liers based on your assessment of the TV. The 12 year old Sony comment seems to smack of immaturity. Your last sentence slams the door on any open dialog since you've declared you're right and there is no debating it.


Just my take on the post, I could be wrong.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *christophersj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can you imagine if you were on a forum about performance cars and one poster wrote that he loved his new Mustang and its torque, that he was really loving the car, but found that he was irritated to discover it had horrible gas milage. And then another poster responded and asked in a huff why he didnt just get another car and stop complaining. It would be like the opposite of a true dialog.



As for the Mustang comment, me being the Chebby guy that I am, would tell the owner to drive it off a cliff to improve the gas mileage.


----------



## justsc

I need to appologize to bbbobbb for the tone of my post yesterday regarding his reply that was supportive of christophersj. I could have made my point in a much kinder way.


FWIW, I was initially reacting to christophersj's comment towards those of us who have reported very good quality SD on our sets:



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by christophersj
> 
> Posters here on this forum who claimed that Standard Def signals (other than DVDs), whether from Digital Broadcasts, or satellite translate well to this Sony set are just not telling the truth. My 12 year old Sony XBR kicks the ass of the 960 up and down the street when displaying DirecTV. There just isnt a debate to be had about this.



I felt this note was calling me a liar. Which set the stage for my unkind reply to bbbobbb.


I still do feel offended by christophersj's assertion, but that's pretty much water under the bridge by now.


Cheers!


----------



## Joseph Dubin

I do not feel Christopher's use of the phrase "just not telling the truth" was meant to call anyone a liar but to emphasize his vastly different point of view. There have been a few people who thought SD and/or digital looked better on their older sets until they realized those also masked the deficiencies of non-HD material which the 960 brought out.


This is a great forum that was already closed down once due to the harsh tone of some members. Let's all take a deep breath and relax so this doesn't occur again. We don't want this forum to go the way of the 960, do we? LOL.


- Joe


----------



## christophersj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sounds to me like you just called a bunch of people liers based on your assessment of the TV. The 12 year old Sony comment seems to smack of immaturity. Your last sentence slams the door on any open dialog since you've declared you're right and there is no debating it.
> 
> 
> Just my take on the post, I could be wrong.



Right, my very first comment about it was indeed limiting and then I corrected it in the second post. I think I was reacting to a number of other posts throughout this 960 forum that chastised others for worrying about SD performance. What I should have said in the first post was that I thought it was unfair to be so dismissive of the 960 owners and the 960-curious who were worried about it because, quite clearly, there is an issue with ANY HDTV displaying SD analog broadcast material. After I bought it and set it up with the first level of calibration, I thought to myself, "wow, those concerns on the forum WERE warranted" and the guys who jumped on them were wrong, in my opinion.


That being said, it now seems that at least half of you think the SD analog broadcast performance is fantastic on the 960. (Can you do polls on this forum?) so I respect that as a different matter of taste and move on.


Now, it seems to me that we are in agreement about the other 75% of what this set has to offer, which is an amazing HD picture. Here is a new topic:


Im gonna get my DirecTV service upgraded to HD and might even get the HD Tivo option. The HD Tivo records the signal directly with a built in tuner so there is no extra compression happening. So quality is lossless from the broadcast, but you cannot record external sources because there is no MPEG-2 digitizer or AV inputs, except "Antenna". While many of my local HD channels will come over the satellite, one will not -- the local PBS, which has some amazing HD content.


My question is this? Because the OTA PBS is already digitzed, can the DirecTV HD Tivo "record" the OTA signal like it would the satellite feed? Would the OTA signal be treated just like the "direct-to-disk" data stream that happens with the satellite?


-Christopher


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *christophersj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Right, my very first comment about it was indeed limiting and then I corrected it in the second post. I think I was reacting to a number of other posts throughout this 960 forum that chastised others for worrying about SD performance. What I should have said in the first post was that I thought it was unfair to be so dismissive of the 960 owners and the 960-curious who were worried about it because, quite clearly, there is an issue with ANY HDTV displaying SD analog broadcast material. After I bought it and set it up with the first level of calibration, I thought to myself, "wow, those concerns on the forum WERE warranted" and the guys who jumped on them were wrong, in my opinion.
> 
> 
> That being said, it now seems that at least half of you think the SD analog broadcast performance is fantastic on the 960. (Can you do polls on this forum?) so I respect that as a different matter of taste and move on.
> 
> 
> Now, it seems to me that we are in agreement about the other 75% of what this set has to offer, which is an amazing HD picture. Here is a new topic:
> 
> 
> Im gonna get my DirecTV service upgraded to HD and might even get the HD Tivo option. The HD Tivo records the signal directly with a built in tuner so there is no extra compression happening. So quality is lossless from the broadcast, but you cannot record external sources because there is no MPEG-2 digitizer or AV inputs, except "Antenna". While many of my local HD channels will come over the satellite, one will not -- the local PBS, which has some amazing HD content.
> 
> 
> My question is this? Because the OTA PBS is already digitzed, can the DirecTV HD Tivo "record" the OTA signal like it would the satellite feed? Would the OTA signal be treated just like the "direct-to-disk" data stream that happens with the satellite?
> 
> 
> -Christopher



Chris, is there a cable provider in your area that can offer a HD-DVR? Ours does and it allows us to record onto the hard drive (in HD where applicable) while watching other channels (in fact, it can record two different programs at the same time onto the hard drive). We also have an output for dubbing from the hard drive to a DVD Recorder or VCR when watching cable as well. It can store up to 100 hours of standard/digital definition and about 40 hours of high definition.


Just a thought so you do not have to worry about missing any HD content from PBS.



- Joe


Just a suggestion


----------



## christophersj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Chris, is there a cable provider in your area that can offer a HD-DVR?



Yes, I think it is Comcast here. I will have to confirm this, but I think it may lack some essential Tivo features like the "eternal key-word search" where you type a key-word into the search (like "hydrogen") and it will look in every program description until eternity and record programs that match that, without you ever having to ask again. Its like a "sticky" search term that is always on the lookout. Its very cool.



-Christopher


----------



## Spokker

I was reading a tech manual for this TV and they reccomended placing the TV so that the picture tube sits in an east-west direction when adjusting geometry. Why would it say that?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *christophersj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, I think it is Comcast here. I will have to confirm this, but I think it may lack some essential Tivo features like the "eternal key-word search" where you type a key-word into the search (like "hydrogen") and it will look in every program description until eternity and record programs that match that, without you ever having to ask again. Its like a "sticky" search term that is always on the lookout. Its very cool.
> 
> 
> 
> -Christopher



Hi Chris,


Yes, word search is a nice feature but I'm really a fan of DVR. Not having ever used TIVO I am not familiar with how much it offers but this is what we can do we our HD DVR:


1) Program a recording by just pressing a button on the cable's TV guide.


2) Record a program onto the hard drive while watching another.


3) Record a program onto the hard drive, dub a program from the hard drive to a DVD recorder and still watch a live program.


4) Record two different programs airing at the same time while dubbing or watching a program previously stored on the hard drive.


5) The hard drive automatically begins recording whenever a channel is selected so you don't have to be disappointed if watching something then wish you had recorded it.


6) Pause, re-wind, watch from the beginning or pick up the program later on from the point stopped (assume this is standard on TIVO).


7) Dub a recording from the hard drive to a DVR recorder while watching a live broadcast without affecting the program being dubbed.


8) If something goes wrong with the DVR it can be replaced for free.


This only costs us $9.95 a month....


Again just the thoughts from a fan of HD DVR.


Ciao,

Joe


----------



## mr2828

Comcast will be offering Tivo service on their systems later this year. Might be worth waiting for rather than spending tons of money on DirecTV hardware just to end up watching their HD-lite video. (you are aware that they downrez their HD channels now, to non-HD resolutions and bandwidths). Many folks that spent $800 or more on that Tivo box wish they hadn't.


----------



## Terp03

I have a question out there in regards to buying a used 34XBR960 to replace my current 30" Samsung TX-P3064W. The guy who is selling it is offering the set at a very good price price (


----------



## Chorgey

Has anyone here used the optical out on the 960? If so, does it send out a 5.1 signal? I can't see how that can be done because the audio in jacks are 2 channel, especially if using an HDMI cable which is 2 channel or even the cable in jacks. The component in jacks are two channel stereo as well.


----------



## hidesertforester




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chorgey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anyone here used the optical out on the 960? If so, does it send out a 5.1 signal? I can't see how that can be done because the audio in jacks are 2 channel, especially if using an HDMI cable which is 2 channel or even the cable in jacks. The component in jacks are two channel stereo as well.



I use it and it works fine when there is a 5.1 DD signal. The 6 channels are encoded in a single bitstream which only requires one wire, The HDMI input is limited to 2.0 DD for reasons I don't know. The other jacks as you say only output two channel stereo.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chorgey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anyone here used the optical out on the 960? If so, does it send out a 5.1 signal? I can't see how that can be done because the audio in jacks are 2 channel, especially if using an HDMI cable which is 2 channel or even the cable in jacks. The component in jacks are two channel stereo as well.



If you use the internal ATSC tuner then the digital audio stream is sent out over the optical output. If that's DD5.1, that's what sent out.


If you use the analog L/R stereo audio (INPUT5-6, INPUT1-3) then the analog stereo audio is copied to the "monitor out" jacks, which are also analog L/R stereo. It is not copied to the digital optical audio output.


I believe that the digital audio stream provided through an HDMI connection is also copied out over the optical output (though I don't use it). However a better approach here is to feed your digital audio output from your real "source" (e.g. STB/DVR/DVHS) directly to your audio receiver via optical, and use just the video to the 960. No need to pass the digital/optical audio through the 960 (assuming you can send DD5.1 via HDMI to/through the 960), where there might end up being a lip-sync problem because of the slight delay that might occur from passing on the digital audio through an intermediate device.


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Terp03* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a question out there in regards to buying a used 34XBR960 to replace my current 30" Samsung TX-P3064W. The guy who is selling it is offering the set at a very good price price (


----------



## christophersj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr2828* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Comcast will be offering Tivo service on their systems later this year. Might be worth waiting for rather than spending tons of money on DirecTV hardware just to end up watching their HD-lite video. (you are aware that they downrez their HD channels now, to non-HD resolutions and bandwidths). Many folks that spent $800 or more on that Tivo box wish they hadn't.



Mr. 2828,


Where can I find out more about DirecTV downresing their HD signal? If the picture on HD satellite is of lesser quality, either by compression or downresing, than HD on digital cable, I would like to find out every detail about that possible.


Thanks,


-Christopher


----------



## mr2828

There have been multiple threads on this here and at other satellite forums. For instance go look/search in the HDTV Programming forum here for some threads. Look for keyword "HD lite".


Basics:


They are downrezzing 1080i channels to 1280x1024 res.


They have cut down the bandwidth on many channels to well below the normal, in some cases below 10mbps.


For all their new local channels and also I think any new national HD stations, they are re-encoding those to MPEG-4, which will also be transmitted at lower bitrates, and I assume based on how badly they've mangled SD stations that they will gradually lower these bitrates over time to squeeze ever more HD home shopping channels in and whatnot. Even if they amazingly maintain high MPEG-4 bitrates, the re-encoding process from MPEG-2 to MPEG-4 is automatically suboptimal in my opinion.


----------



## christophersj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr2828* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There have been multiple threads on this here and at other satellite forums. For instance go look/search in the HDTV Programming forum here for some threads. Look for keyword "HD lite".
> 
> 
> Basics:
> 
> 
> They are downrezzing 1080i channels to 1280x1024 res.



Thanks for the heads up. That search term is helping.


Too bad the digital cable doesnt have Universal HD. They are re-running episodes of Battlestar Galactica in HD. Oh well.


-Christopher


----------



## RJRSW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chorgey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anyone here used the optical out on the 960? If so, does it send out a 5.1 signal? I can't see how that can be done because the audio in jacks are 2 channel, especially if using an HDMI cable which is 2 channel or even the cable in jacks. The component in jacks are two channel stereo as well.



Yes it sends out 5.1 through the optical out if you are using the built in ATSC tuner or the cable QAM tuner and the program is being broadcast with 5.1 audio. Even the NFL football games on Fox have come through in 5.1


----------



## mr2828




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *christophersj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the heads up. That search term is helping.
> 
> 
> Too bad the digital cable doesnt have Universal HD. They are re-running episodes of Battlestar Galactica in HD. Oh well.
> 
> 
> -Christopher



Actually Comcast did carry Universal HD during the winter olympics, and still has it in some markets. It's rumored that it will eventually return in the other markets. I think there's a thread or two about this in the HDTV Programming forum.


Also I think I read that MTV HD and ESPN2 HD are on the way relatively soon for Comcast.


----------



## avnstf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *christophersj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the heads up. That search term is helping.
> 
> 
> Too bad the digital cable doesnt have Universal HD. They are re-running episodes of Battlestar Galactica in HD. Oh well.
> 
> 
> -Christopher



my housemate now gets neflix, and battlestar is available there on DVDs, which we are just beginning to watch....your XBR ought to upconvert that pretty well...


----------



## Artwood

Big Ugly Dish + OTA + some cable providers = the only decent HD being broadcast. Hard to find and must spend alot to get it--otherwise all you get is downrezzed stuff which makes HD seem useless--UNLESS you want it to be SO BAD so you'll SELL more HD-DVD or Blueray discs! Do you think Hollywood would do something like that?


----------



## Mathesar

Hrm so I got a Panasonic S97 DVD player today and to be honest im not to impressed with the 720 / 1080i output on it via HDMI , It looks almost identical to my Sony NS725P player connected via Component (480P). Don't get me wrong It doesnt look any worse and it looks very good... it just doesnt look much differant at all, I guess you cant expect much from a 480i > 1080i conversion.


But I would have to say its definitely true when people say up converting dvd players are best suited for fixed pixel displays ,the improvement on a CRT just isn't there.


The one bonus of having it hooked up to HDMI is it freeing up a component input on the TV for something else, such as one of my videogame consoles..


I've only compared a couple DVDs so far but I doubt my opinion will change unless im missing some magical setting on the S97 or something.


----------



## S. Hiller




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Artwood* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Big Ugly Dish + OTA + some cable providers = the only decent HD being broadcast. Hard to find and must spend alot to get it--otherwise all you get is downrezzed stuff which makes HD seem useless--UNLESS you want it to be SO BAD so you'll SELL more HD-DVD or Blueray discs! Do you think Hollywood would do something like that?



Or Dish Network except for the Voom channels.


----------



## Terp03




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ooof, I'd pass, even at that price. Just to let you know though I personally steer clear of refurb., used or demo items. It's just a personal choice... I do recognize that some people feel it's the way to go and have had success stories. My concerns always stem from being woried about not only what i know is wrong, but what else could pop up that I'm not aware of.
> 
> 
> If you decide to go with it, search this thread. A poster accidentally scratched this material and buffed the rest off about 6 months ago. If I remember correctly, he claimed this was successful. I'd be leary though... honestly I'd go with some other situation (i.e., a refurb from Sony with waranty) before risking a private seller who aknowledges kids having damaging access.
> 
> 
> I have not kept on top of them, but I have seen threads recently with vendors that still have sets. Check the CRT forum and keep on the lookout.



Thanks for the feedback. The set is still under warranty for another year and five months, and you just can't beat the price. It's a tough call... the glare screen damage is the only thing that is really holding me back from buying it. I've never come across a Sony factory refurb. Where would I be able to find those?


----------



## cornell_lingus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Terp03* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the feedback. The set is still under warranty for another year and five months, and you just can't beat the price. It's a tough call... the glare screen damage is the only thing that is really holding me back from buying it. I've never come across a Sony factory refurb. Where would I be able to find those?



Sony Outlet stores. I got one two weeks ago.


----------



## S. Hiller




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Terp03* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the feedback. The set is still under warranty for another year and five months, and you just can't beat the price. It's a tough call... the glare screen damage is the only thing that is really holding me back from buying it. I've never come across a Sony factory refurb. Where would I be able to find those?



Check out the clearances. I've seen some incredible prices on new units. (That glare coating is an important part of the set.)


----------



## Terp03




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cornell_lingus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sony Outlet stores. I got one two weeks ago.



Good price? Any problems with the set?


----------



## bforsse

Has anybody been able to get the Namco Guncon2 lightgun to work with the 960N and a PS2? I have tried the following:


1) Hook up 960N Composite video (vid1) to guncon2


Result: Rolling X problem: the x on the calibration screen calibrates well and follows the gun vertically, but horizontally the x flickers across the screen


2) Hook up 960N Component video green cable (vid5) to guncon2


Result: same as above


I hooked these up to an older 4:3 set, both component and composite worked fine.


Does anybody know what the problem might be, is it software or hardware? Does it have to do with the 16:9 screen size? Does the video signal need to be modifed somehow? Is there a fix out there somewhere?


Thanks,

-Brian


----------



## prophcy0

I just got a xbr960 today. Circuit City only had two left, and both were floor models. One was pretty scratched up, while the one I got seems to be in perfect condition. One thing that worries me though is that the sales person said this TV might have been refurbished. However, the manual and remote had not been opened, so maybe it's new and was just put out on the floor for a bit. However, just to be sure, is there anything I should check for to be sure the TV is in good working condition?


I do have two quesitons:

1. My XBOX games look far jaggier than they did on my HS420. Is this because of the higher resolution of the XBR, or is something wrong with the TV?


2. This question seems really dumb, but how the heck do I view HD channels that are broadcasted over cable? I did a digital channel search, and it found something like 23 channels. However, not a single channel appears to be in HD. Do I need to do something special in order to view HD broadcasts?


----------



## GamerGuyX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bforsse* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anybody been able to get the Namco Guncon2 lightgun to work with the 960N and a PS2? I have tried the following:
> 
> 
> 1) Hook up 960N Composite video (vid1) to guncon2
> 
> 
> Result: Rolling X problem: the x on the calibration screen calibrates well and follows the gun vertically, but horizontally the x flickers across the screen
> 
> 
> 2) Hook up 960N Component video green cable (vid5) to guncon2
> 
> 
> Result: same as above
> 
> 
> I hooked these up to an older 4:3 set, both component and composite worked fine.
> 
> 
> Does anybody know what the problem might be, is it software or hardware? Does it have to do with the 16:9 screen size? Does the video signal need to be modifed somehow? Is there a fix out there somewhere?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> -Brian



Light guns do not work with HDTV's. The only one that I have seen that does was specifically made to work with HDTV's and is a piece of junk.


----------



## cornell_lingus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Terp03* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Good price? Any problems with the set?



Great price (three digits), no operating problems so far.


----------



## cornell_lingus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *prophcy0* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. This question seems really dumb, but how the heck do I view HD channels that are broadcasted over cable? I did a digital channel search, and it found something like 23 channels. However, not a single channel appears to be in HD. Do I need to do something special in order to view HD broadcasts?



You may be looking at times where there are no HD broadcasts. Usually your best bets are in prime time or the morning network shows. Are you sure you are getting your cable provider's feeds for your local digital signals? If so, check with them to see where they have slotted those channels. In reading the AVS forum boards for the TV markets around me, it seems like the local cable outlets are taking their sweet time adding locals to their services.


I don't know about anybody else, but it took me a couple of days of finagling the Silver Sensor before my set started showing the OTA digital channels.


----------



## prophcy0

I'm pretty sure I'm getting digital signals, as we're subscribed to digital cable. My mom has a cable box upstairs. When the TV did a search for digital signals is found 100+, and then said "Signals shown" and said something like 23. Then when the TV got done searching I couldn't seem to find any HD channels. Do I just change to them like any other channel?


Also, should I be able to take the cable box from upstairs and hook it up to my TV? I tried doing this last week and the box wouldn't even turn on properly. When I hooked it back up to my mom's HDTV it turned on just fine and worked perfectly.


Thanks again.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *prophcy0* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure I'm getting digital signals, as we're subscribed to digital cable. My mom has a cable box upstairs. When the TV did a search for digital signals is found 100+, and then said "Signals shown" and said something like 23. Then when the TV got done searching I couldn't seem to find any HD channels. Do I just change to them like any other channel?
> 
> Thanks again.



Start with channel 2, use the remote and go up one channel at a time. Your HD signals could be anywhere depending on your cable provider. I have some HD channels in the 400s, music channels start at 92.16, locals are anywhere between 2.1 and 54.2.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *prophcy0* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just got a xbr960 today. 2. This question seems really dumb, but how the heck do I view HD channels that are broadcasted over cable? I did a digital channel search, and it found something like 23 channels. However, not a single channel appears to be in HD. Do I need to do something special in order to view HD broadcasts?



This may seem like something you already were supposed to know, but if you have a "cable box" (aka STB or DVR) that is capable of delivering HD to your set, you need to connect it to your XBR960 via (a) component video, or (b) DVI/HDMI on STB/DVR to HDMI on XBR960. That's how you feed the HD channels tuned to by the STB/DVR to the set... via INPUT5, INPUT6, or INPUT7. None of these inputs corresponds to "channels" on the XBR960. They are fed directly from the STB/DVR to the XBR960, with the STB/DVR responsible for the channel tuning (either HD or SD).


You only deal with "channel scan" on the XBR960 for off-air channels received from your roof antenna, connected via coax to the RF inputs on the back of the XBR960 and dealt with through the NTSC/ATSC tuners in the set. That's where you get "channel 2 (SD analog)" or "channel 2.1 (DTV/HD digital), etc. And that's where the channel scan from SETUP would occur.


But for cable-provided channels, it's INPUT5-INPUT7 you should be using and watching, and there are no "channels" as such. The STB/DVR is your tuner.


Of course if you have "cablecard" and not a STB/DVR, the above comments regarding STB/DVR and component/DVI/HDMI are not relevant.


----------



## prophcy0

I don't have a cable card or "cable box", I was just trying to get the unscrambled HD channels that are broadcasted regularly.


I left the TV to search for digital channels as I slept, and when I woke up it had detected a bunch of them. A basketball game was on in 1080i, and it was gorgeous. I don't know what was going on before, but everything seems to be working fine now.


----------



## kellen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *prophcy0* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't have a cable card or "cable box", I was just trying to get the unscrambled HD channels that are broadcasted regularly.
> 
> 
> I left the TV to search for digital channels as I slept, and when I woke up it had detected a bunch of them. A basketball game was on in 1080i, and it was gorgeous. I don't know what was going on before, but everything seems to be working fine now.



Don't know if this is the case, but with me I tried scanning the cable for HD and none were found, as I didn't have the HD package from my local cable company (comcast). All I could find was over the air HD, which required an antenna to tune in.


Try an antenna and scanning for HD over the air.


----------



## Chorgey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kellen* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Don't know if this is the case, but with me I tried scanning the cable for HD and none were found, as I didn't have the HD package from my local cable company (comcast). All I could find was over the air HD, which required an antenna to tune in.
> 
> 
> Try an antenna and scanning for HD over the air.



I also have Comcast, no HD package and without a STB. I plugged the coax directly to the 960 "CABLE" input and did a scan. It found the HD local channels. This is in NJ


----------



## XBR960fan

I am looking for an armoire to house my XBR960. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where I might find one. I am looking for something that isn't too expensive as I spent almost all my money on the TV itself







. I would like to find one that has doors on it and also would like to be able to close them once in awhile to give the beast a rest. Thanks.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *XBR960fan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am looking for an armoire to house my XBR960. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where I might find one. I am looking for something that isn't too expensive as I spent almost all my money on the TV itself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I would like to find one that has doors on it and also would like to be able to close them once in awhile to give the beast a rest. Thanks.



That's a tough one to call. Even the A/V stands that are big and sturdy enough to house the 960 start at around $250 with the matching stand by Sony going for $350 (if it can be found). If you are interested in a stand there were some posts on this subject about a month ago which you can search through.


An armoire would cost much much more. It would require a compartment much larger than the 960 itself (because the vents on both sides and the top cannot be blocked), shelving would have to handle it's more than 200 pound weight and overall the furniture would need to be deeper than most. Avoid any that needs to be assembled, at least in this case.


Meanwhile, congratulations on your new 960 - you'll find it was worth every penny


----------



## Lo0seR

Got my 960n today, $1,408.00 out the door and was brand new. Thanx to all for this thread with a 130 pages long so I could makeup my mind. O ya the place I got it from has 11 more new in box still for sale.


----------



## kny3twalker




> Quote:
> Got my 960n today, $1,408.00 out the door and was brand new. Thanx to all for this thread with a 130 pages long so I could makeup my mind. O ya the place I got it from has 11 more new in box still for sale.



nothing in the rules saying you cannot post where you got it from, in fact most that are looking for this TV, would most probably appreciate it


----------



## h2osports

Just dropping by from the RPTV forum. Hope that's OK.










I'm considering picking up a 960 before they're all gone. The local stores - I'm in Maine - all seem to have only the 960N available. And according to the boxes I've seen, the set is assembled "south of the border." I was under the impression that the 960 was "made in the USA." Am I mistaken?


In any case, would someone please be so kind as to give a *brief* rundown of the pluses & minuses of the 960 vs. the 960N.


Lastly, the one store that said they had Sony's matching stand in stock; listed the part number as SU-34XBR1. I thought the correct model number was SU-34XBR3. Is the "1" the stand that is of a slightly different silver color and therefore not the proper match for the 960 or 960N?


Thanks,


Be skiing ya,


DSG


----------



## TwinTurboZX

The XBR1 stand is for the 34XBR910, it will fit the 960 but there is a slight color mismatch between the TV and the stand.


----------



## h2osports

Thanks TTZX....If I decide to purchase an XBR960(N), I'll be sure to go with the XBR3 stand. I certainly would want the colors to match.










Be skiing ya,


DSG


----------



## rtype

Does anyone have one of these things and live in an upstairs apartment?


I keep trying to talk myself into/out of buying one before the last ones vanish.


I want to do lots of video games (old consoles and new, sometimes pc) and tv/movies but I'd eventually want something with a bigger screen in the livingroom (50-55"+) and the xbr960 is so deep that I worry that it may be too big to want in the bedroom (where any other smaller screen hdtv would eventually be).


But the thing that gets me the most is the thought about moving.... and the thought of a couple of guys (if not me) trying to carry 200 lbs of fragile electronic glass downstairs.


It's ironic to me that they charge LESS for delivery on this than on large screen TVs because they price by screen size.


----------



## Mongoose

I posted a few days back about a problem I had with my new 960N. It had an extensive color cast in the upper right corner of the screen and a small crack in the right corner of the frame face. I contacted Sony and a repair person came out. I suggeated we check the magnetic shield for the right speaker so he opened the back. The shield was fine, but the plastic frame that the picture tube attaches to at the right front was cracked as well. He said that there wasn't any way Sony could warrantee the set with the apparent damage. In fact, if they were to replace the picture tube the mounting bracket might well fall apart. So I have no choice but to arrange a return to ABT. Does anyone know if this tv is available from another authorized source?


----------



## gutwrencher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rtype* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> But the thing that gets me the most is the thought about moving.... and the thought of a couple of guys (if not me) trying to carry 200 lbs of fragile electronic glass downstairs.



Thats why God made moving companies. Not all movers are former convicts or current idiots. I own a moving company and we do this just about everyday for 12 hours...pianos up 4 flights of stairs, king beds up 6 flights...that sort of thing. You find a local company, check with the BBB and hire them. They are insured. If you can afford a nice TV...you can afford a good moving company.


And 200lbs is nothing. What happened, don't we lift weights and work out anymore? Two people can't lift 200lbs easily?


I do understand though, that the TV delivery people usually don't have a clue how to even move their own products. But...they are insured too, so.....


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *h2osports* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just dropping by from the RPTV forum. Hope that's OK.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm considering picking up a 960 before they're all gone. The local stores - I'm in Maine - all seem to have only the 960N available. And according to the boxes I've seen, the set is assembled "south of the border." I was under the impression that the 960 was "made in the USA." Am I mistaken?



The Mexicali plant is roughly an hour south of Palm Springs (and right below I-8) on the border.

http://waysandmeans.house.gov/hearin...e=view&id=3586 


http://www.signonsandiego.com/uniont..._1n20sony.html


----------



## jet757f




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Mexicali plant is roughly an hour south of Palm Springs (and right below I-8) on the border.
> 
> http://waysandmeans.house.gov/hearin...e=view&id=3586
> 
> 
> http://www.signonsandiego.com/uniont..._1n20sony.html



Very interesting reading.


My 1995 era XBR100 was made in Mexico and I was hesitant to buy at the time because of that but it has performed very well.


Now I am thankful to be getting one (960N) made in Mexico instead of China.........


----------



## PeteH579




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mongoose* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I posted a few days back about a problem I had with my new 960N. It had an extensive color cast in the upper right corner of the screen and a small crack in the right corner of the frame face. I contacted Sony and a repair person came out. I suggeated we check the magnetic shield for the right speaker so he opened the back. The shield was fine, but the plastic frame that the picture tube attaches to at the right front was cracked as well. He said that there wasn't any way Sony could warrantee the set with the apparent damage. In fact, if they were to replace the picture tube the mounting bracket might well fall apart. So I have no choice but to arrange a return to ABT. Does anyone know if this tv is available from another authorized source?



Too bad on this outcome. How about ABT? Can they track down a replacement?

Try contacting the poster #3919 LoOser I think.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rtype* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone have one of these things and live in an upstairs apartment?
> 
> 
> I keep trying to talk myself into/out of buying one before the last ones vanish.
> 
> 
> I want to do lots of video games (old consoles and new, sometimes pc) and tv/movies but I'd eventually want something with a bigger screen in the livingroom (50-55"+) and the xbr960 is so deep that I worry that it may be too big to want in the bedroom (where any other smaller screen hdtv would eventually be).
> 
> 
> But the thing that gets me the most is the thought about moving.... and the thought of a couple of guys (if not me) trying to carry 200 lbs of fragile electronic glass downstairs.



Can understand your concern about moving it down a flight of stairs. Don't think the weight would be a problem if carried by two professionals but, like you, my concern would be the 960's screen - it would need to be covered with enough protective padding and styrofoam (or equivalent) to prevent damage from an accidental bump against the stairwell, etc.


If you replace it with a 50-55 inch flat panel you would need to sit between 10-1/2 and 11-1/2 feet from the screen. Is your configuration large enough for that? If not, because it's more than two feet deep the 960 will appear equivalent to maybe a 37 or 38 inch flat screen which would be further back from the same viewing position.


And you might find you will want to keep your 960 in the living room because of it's superior picture and get another one for the bedroom.


Go get a 960 while they can still be found!


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mongoose* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I posted a few days back about a problem I had with my new 960N. It had an extensive color cast in the upper right corner of the screen and a small crack in the right corner of the frame face. I contacted Sony and a repair person came out. I suggeated we check the magnetic shield for the right speaker so he opened the back. The shield was fine, but the plastic frame that the picture tube attaches to at the right front was cracked as well. He said that there wasn't any way Sony could warrantee the set with the apparent damage. In fact, if they were to replace the picture tube the mounting bracket might well fall apart. So I have no choice but to arrange a return to ABT. Does anyone know if this tv is available from another authorized source?



Is your warranty through Sony or ABT? If Sony, have you contacted them since the repair person came? You have a two year warranty for all parts and labor so if it can't be fixed, you are entitled to another set. Sony does not have the right to make exception to any damaged part under warranty if not caused by the owner.


----------



## Mongoose

ABT is completely out of this TV. They are taking it back and refunding the cost. The repairman Sony sent said that shipping damage is not covered under Sony's warranty. So my recourse was ABT. I can't imagine going through Sony's customer care telephone maze and ever encountering anyone with the authority to effect an exchange, but I might try for awhile and see what happens.


----------



## Mongoose

I called Sony Customer Care and got through fairly quickly to a helpful person. Unfortunately they reiterated what the repairman had said; Sony will not cover physical damage as a warranty issue. It makes sense, as it stands, it's probably ABT's loss and not Sony's. I'll continue to look for one of these sets from a reputable dealer.


----------



## greenland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mongoose* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ABT is completely out of this TV. They are taking it back and refunding the cost. The repairman Sony sent said that shipping damage is not covered under Sony's warranty. So my recourse was ABT. I can't imagine going through Sony's customer care telephone maze and ever encountering anyone with the authority to effect an exchange, but I might try for awhile and see what happens.



Did you get ABT to waive the return shipping charge for everything over 50lbs? They state on their website that they send a return fee notice before item is picked up for return.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mongoose* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I called Sony Customer Care and got through fairly quickly to a helpful person. Unfortunately they reiterated what the repairman had said; Sony will not cover physical damage as a warranty issue. It makes sense, as it stands, it's probably ABT's loss and not Sony's. I'll continue to look for one of these sets from a reputable dealer.



Sorry I misunderstood - thought it was damage that affected the working condition of the set. Glad you are getting your money back from ABT.


----------



## TwinTurboZX

Quick question, is a 12ft. HDMI-to-DVI cable too long for connecting a PC to the XBR? I ask this because I heard really long HDMI/DVI cables will negatively affect the PQ.


----------



## rtype

Can anyone tell me how exactly the 960N transforms 720p to 1080i? Is it just a scaled and smoothed 360i?


I'd read that to get 720p from a 1080i source, most TVs drop one of the frames and scale the 540p to 720p. Do native 1080i TVs do the opposite of that?


I had grown accustomed to scaling via dscaler (in an htpc) but my PC can't accept 720p so I'm SOL there.


Also, with all the talk in the other threads -- Does the HDMI on the 960N have HDCP? (In other words: Will I be able to successfully play a Blu-Ray disc to it?)


Thanks for the help.


----------



## pcgraffy

I just got off the phone with a local retailer that has one 960 left -- but it is an open box model that has been on the floor as a display. Anyway, the salesman said that the manager would definitely work with me on a good price.


Has anyone gone this route? I don't really want one that has been on the floor, but options are running out. I'm beginning to think that if the price is right, a floor display 960 is better than a new 970.


Thoughts?


----------



## Lo0seR

Sorry "kny3twalker" Fry's electronics in LA have many units available. All look new but what gets me is how they came up with so many in a short period of time "refurbished"? I asked and they said noway all were new there was noway they can be refurbished because they would have to disclose that it was on the box. Anyhoo, my looks great and and have no complaints so far, if I do I will take that last post with the google map and drive down to TJ and tell sony to coughup a new one pronto, yaright.


----------



## rtype

I passed on an open box today - I'm planning to get a new one, though Im nervous because I cant seem to find answers to my questions. It should be an ok gaming monitor one way or another.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TwinTurboZX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Quick question, is a 12ft. HDMI-to-DVI cable too long for connecting a PC to the XBR? I ask this because I heard really long HDMI/DVI cables will negatively affect the PQ.



DVI spec is 5 meters (around 16 feet) so 12 feet should be fine.


Others have had luck with longer runs, so yrmv.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rtype* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Also, with all the talk in the other threads -- Does the HDMI on the 960N have HDCP? (In other words: Will I be able to successfully play a Blu-Ray disc to it?)



Yes, it has HDMI.


Will you be able to view a Blu-Ray in 1080P? No, because the set won't do 1080P.


Can you view BR or HD-DVD in 1080i? Most certainly.


Will it allow the BluRay or HD-DVD to output 5.1 audio to an outboard processor .......well..... based on current spec, most likely not, as the television will not tell the player that it is 5.1 capable and thus only allow it to send 2.0 audio. A firmware update MAY be able to correct this if it becomes reality, but it would help if the set was still in production.


Will it have problems with the HDMI 1.3 spec? Most all HDMI 1.1 devices are creating significant audio noise when connected to a HDMI 1.3 device (which, for example, the PS3 will be). Again, a firmware update might correct this, but again, will one be forthcoming?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Again, a firmware update might correct this, but again, will one be forthcoming?



Probably not.


It's obvious that all of the leading companies are more or less done with tubes, in terms of any serious support.


----------



## POWERFUL

Q why would a company like SONY do that to ppl who spend a great deal of money on a set like this. They shouldn't leave us in the lurch like this, right?


----------



## rtype

It would be nice if you could use Blu-Ray or whatever other digitally protected content (at 1080i). I can live without the convenience features... as long as the video plays to the TV and there's another way to get the audio out of the player.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *POWERFUL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Q why would a company like SONY do that to ppl who spend a great deal of money on a set like this. They shouldn't leave us in the lurch like this, right?



I certainly agree with you 100 percent on that and the sentiment behind it. Unforunteately, I'm just not going to hold my breath anyways.


You know this industry is going...


As it stands, I really don't have any problem using HDMI for video and sending a coax or optical cable out for audio. It just isn't that a big of a deal to me. I don't have a receiver with HDMI switching anyways.


The PS3 is closest I'm getting to any kind of "early adoption" on any of this.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *POWERFUL* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Q why would a company like SONY do that to ppl who spend a great deal of money on a set like this. They shouldn't leave us in the lurch like this, right?



Technically, its not the TV's fault. The TV doesn't do 5.1 - thats a fact.


Quite frankly, Sony may violate some of the agreements if they made a firmware update that told the player the TV did.


What Q hasn't grasped yet is the TV will tell the Player that 5.1 audio isn't doable on the TV set, so the player will take the 5.1 down 2.0 on the optical outputs of the player, according to spec as they are now.


This is true of most HDTVs now - not just this one.


----------



## Yoda1

Anyone else have a blue/purpleish blob-thing in the upper left-hand corner of their screen? It usually develops during white scenes. Is this fixable?


Thanks!


----------



## Brad Smith

Two notes...


1) The TV does refuse to pass 5.1 audio via the optical outputs when set to the HDMI input. Whether this is on the TV side or a result of the handshake between the TV and the player, I'm not sure.


2) I just got my XBR960 ISF calibrated in the last two weeks, and the results are incredible. Colors seem far more accurate than before, and the images jump out and look more lifelike as a result. Highly recommended


----------



## POWERFUL

Fan ur probably right about HDMI, but for OTA and QAM cable it will pass the signal.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What Q hasn't grasped yet is the TV will tell the Player that 5.1 audio isn't doable on the TV set, so the player will take the 5.1 down 2.0 on the optical outputs of the player, according to spec as they are now.



Just to clarify the significance of this subject, and to ask a question or two...


This is a similar issue as is dealt with by owners of hardware combinations such as the SA8300 DVR and the Sharp Aquos LCD display. The SA8300 has HDMI-out, and the Aquos has both HDMI and DVI inputs. If you connect the SA8300 to the Aquos via HDMI, and also connect the SA8300 optical digital audio output to your receiver, the fact that the Aquos (like the XBR960) does NOT support DD5.1 through its HDMI/audio input forces the SA8300 to shut down audio if you've selected the "Dolby Digital" audio setting. So if you have the audio output setting on the SA8300 set to DD5.1, you end up getting ZERO audio output to the Aquos. You can change the SA8300 to instead specify 2-channel stereo audio so that you can hear through the TV's speakers, but then you lose DD5.1 optical digital audio output. Conundrum. Enigma.


The only "real" solution is to (1) use a different HDMI-to-DVI cable, feeding the Aquos via DVI, (2) connect the analog L/R audio output of the SA8300 to the anaolog L/R audio input of the Aquos (so that you can still listen to audio using the TV's speakers if you want). Now the SA8300 optical digital audio output is true DD5.1 fed to your receiver.


Well, as I understand things the situation with the XBR960 is exactly the same... substituting the XBR960 for the Aquos, and substituting a BRD/HDDVD player device for the SA8300.


However unlike with the Aquos which fortunately has both DVI and HDMI inputs and therefore provides a way to "fool" the SA8300 (HDMI source device communicating with DVI display device) and regain DD5.1 on digital audio output, the XBR960 (and probably LOTS of display devices) only have HDMI inputs, and no DVI alternative! But all (or 99.9%?) of these devices (including XBR960) do NOT accept DD5.1 over HDMI. If the BRD/HDDVD source device shuts down DD5.1 over the optical digital audio output if the HDMI display device cannot accept DD5.1 over HDMI, then HOW can this ever work... wanting to feed DD5.1 over optical digital audio to your receiver???


So exactly what possible configuration are the manufacturers envisioning where HDMI-to-HDMI is used for the video (when the display device cannot receive DD5.1 over HDMI), while also allowing true DD5.1 sent out over the optical digital audio output? Unless I'm missing something, or unless the BRD/HDDVD rules are not the same as that of the SA8300, I don't see how anybody will ever be able to get DD5.1/DTS out of their BRD/HDDVD optical digital audio output?


Seems impossible. What could they be thinking?


Am I missing something? Or does this problem still require manufacturers' resolution?


----------



## S. Hiller

Wild guess here -- can you knock out the HDMI audio connection by coupling together two HDMI to DVI adaptor cables?


----------



## kellen

Perhaps I am not fully understanding, but why don't you just run an audio cable directly from the source to your receiver? Just bypass the TV altogether? Doing that right now with my sony dvd player.


Sure there is something I am not understanding.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kellen* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Perhaps I am not fully understanding, but why don't you just run an audio cable directly from the source to your receiver? Just bypass the TV altogether? Doing that right now with my sony dvd player.
> 
> 
> Sure there is something I am not understanding.



We are discussing the new upcoming BRD/HDDVD players as "the source". And according to the product design, the video must be delivered to the HDTV via HDMI (from the player) in order to take advantage of their HD capability. But the ability of that same display device to receive DD5.1 (over the same HDMI cable) will also determine whether or not the optical digital audio output from the same player will be in DD5.1 or not as delivered to your receiver.


Since the TV's cannot receive DD5.1 via HDMI, that means the new BRD/HDDVD players will not deliver DD5.1 over their optical digital audio outputs.


That's the problem.


So how can this EVER work??? Am I still not understanding something?


----------



## Brad Smith

DSperber,


Why would they change the behavior for BRD/HD-DVD? I have an HDMI DVD player connected to my XBR960 right now and also an optical cable from the DVD player to my receiver. I get 5.1 audio.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Smith* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> DSperber,
> 
> 
> Why would they change the behavior for BRD/HD-DVD? I have an HDMI DVD player connected to my XBR960 right now and also an optical cable from the DVD player to my receiver. I get 5.1 audio.



As do all of us!


This is part of the new AACS copy-protection mechanism as I understand things, which is far more intrusive and restrictive for BRD/HDDVD than was the case with SD DVD's. Much debate going on here.


And what I had heard, and which was stated above as well by HDTVFanatic, is that (a) 1080i/1080p HD resolutions will only be delivered to the display device via HDMI and not component (which will potentially be down-rezzed automatically by the player, at the optional discretion and control of the studio which produces the BRD/HDDVD content being played), and (b) delivery of DD5.1 will depend on the device at the other end of the HDMI cable being capable of receiving it through this HDMI (even though it is almost certainly NOT the audio receiver you want to send the digital audio to, which will obviously be connected to the player through the optical/coax digital audio cable and not HDMI).


This is what was stated earlier and that I was trying to confirm that was really true or not true (at least my understanding), because it seems impossible therefore to ever get digital audio to your receiver from the new players... since virtually all (if not all) HDTV's connected via HDMI cannot accept DD5.1.


So, unless I am not understanding how it really will work (remember, no actual players are for sale, and the AACS debate was "resolved" only weeks ago!) it would seem physically impossible to get DD5.1 to your receiver. Surely this can't be right.


Can someone please clarify. Thanks.


----------



## kellen

I doubt that they wouldn't include an optical out and just have 5.1 through the HDMI, as then the only way to get 5.1 would be to have a HDMI receiver, essentially rendering nearly all current receivers worthless. Now I know there are some minor incompatability issues when new technology is released (having to buy new things to make it work), but to completely alienate so many people would be crazy.


I also recall reading that the new HD players would be component video capable. So then you would have to have a digital out to get 5.1.


Let us know what you find.


----------



## kellen

If you go on Sony.com, they have a blue ray disc player you can pre-order, for a 1000. It has optical out, so I think that we will connect them just like we do now for 5.1.


No worries.


Kellen


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kellen* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I doubt that they wouldn't include an optical out and just have 5.1 through the HDMI, as then the only way to get 5.1 would be to have a HDMI receiver, essentially rendering nearly all current receivers worthless.



Well that's not what's being stated. Obviously, the DD5.1 digital audio output would be presented out of the optical or coax digital audio outputs on the players.


What's being conjectured (I believe) is that the DD5.1 output will not be sent over the optical/coax digital audio output if the display device at the end of the HDMI-to-HDMI cable does not indicate it can accept DD5.1. Instead (I believe) only the 2-channel PCM digital audio will be sent out over the optical/coax outputs.


I know, this seems crazy. Why would the audio capabilities of a display device connected via HDMI, which would almost certainly not be the hardware used to listen to DD5.1 audio, limit what gets sent out over the optical/coax digital audio output path? Why should this happen (except that, remarkably, it really does happen that way today on the SA8300 DVR)? Surely they realize you're going to be sending digital audio to your receiver, not to your TV.


Down-rezzing video over component is one thing. But tampering with the optical/coax digital audio outputs based on the HDMI display device? Why?


And yet...



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What Q hasn't grasped yet is the TV will tell the Player that 5.1 audio isn't doable on the TV set, so the player will take the 5.1 down 2.0 on the optical outputs of the player, according to spec as they are now. This is true of most HDTVs now - not just this one.



So... can someone clear up this confusion? I realize this is the XBR960 thread, not the BRD/HDDVD thread, but this digital audio question is relevant here since the XBR960 does not have a DVI connector and hence will be impacted by any rules involved with the mandatory HDMI connection.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

You understand it 100% correct DSperber.


If the TV does not have a TV optical passthrough for audio, the HDMI says it cannot handle 5.1, so the BluRay or HD-DVD will kill the optical output or reduce it to 2.0 (if the movie companies have the code set for that movie) and you cannot bypass it.


They expect external hdmi devices built into your 5.1 receiver that are compliant that will take the audio and video and then pass the video on to the TV.


However, there are issues with that and it doesn't work in the first HDMI implemention, of which I *believe* this Sony uses. That is why I originally spoke of a firmware upgrade.


The SA8300 has the bypass feature you noted because of this issue and they figure they have everything under control with 5c.


You wont have that bypass method available on the BluRay and HD-DVD units.


Now, most of the companies, except Warners have said they won't be using the restrictions in the first few releases (read: until your warranty expires or you cannot take the unit back) so many will not even be aware of it until later on when the gotcha happens.


And you are right, it is a mess. Not just for this Sony, but most every HDTV out there.


Many will never find out until they add a 5.1 system.


By that time, it will be too late.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You understand it 100% correct DSperber.



Let me see if I really do...


The BRD/HDDVD manufacturers will only provide (a) 1080i/1080p video to AACS-compliant device via HDMI either for direct use or pass-through, and (b) DD5.1 digital audio through the same HDMI cable and simultaneously through optical/coax to a receiver only if the AACS-compliant device connected through HDMI (TV or switch/receiver) indicates it can accept DD5.1 via HDMI, either for direct use or pass-through.


So the expectation is that you will either:


(1) connect the BRD/HDDVD player to an HDTV via HDMI, where the TV has optical pass-through for digital audio and also indicates to the player that it can accept DD5.1 via HDMI. In this case, you can then either (a) connect the optical pass-through digital audio output from the TV (delivered via the HDMI cable from the player) to your receiver, or (b) connect the optical digital audio output from the player directly to your receiver since that connection path is "activated" for DD5.1 once the HDMI path says it can receive DD5.1.


(2) connect the BRD/HDDVD player to a switch/receiver via HDMI, where the switch/receiver indicates it can receive DD5.1 via HDMI and has HDMI pass-through output for video to the HDTV (will a DVI connection also be acceptable from the switch to HDTV?), and possible optical pass-through digital audio (if the device is not a receiver but is a switch) for optical connection to a receiver.


If the HDMI device connected to the BRD/HDDVD player in either approach (1) or (2) indicates it cannot accept DD5.1 over HDMI, then the optical output of the player is either shut down or reverted to 2-channel PCM audio.



And yes, this seemingly crazy and draconian regulation would appear to eliminate the possiblity of using option (2) with currently installed hardware, since probably all or most of the DD5.1 audio receivers/processors currently in use out there in the world right now probably do not have HDMI support as required.


And, since probably none or very few of the HDMI-equipped HDTV's out there indicate that they can accept DD5.1 via HDMI (even though they might have optical digital audio pass-through, as the XBR960 does for possible pass-through of digital audio for firewire-delivered content), it would also appear that option (1) is another impossibility.


Which brings us to conclude that with most currently installed audio/video equipment nobody will be able to utilize DD5.1 from BRD/HDDVD devices. This seems patently impossible to believe, that the manufacturers would actually do this. Seems ridiculous to believe this is their product design.


And yet...



So, have I missed something?


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> So, have I missed something?



Nope.


Also, remember, the flags must set for that to happen. They may or may not be set at first with all releases, but eventually they will all move to that direction.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nope.
> 
> 
> Also, remember, the flags must set for that to happen. They may or may not be set at first with all releases, but eventually they will all move to that direction.



Still seems astonishing that there would be something in the design (initially activated or not) that would potentially eliminate essentially 100% of all currently installed HDTV's and digital audio receivers from the potential marketplace for their new products. As has been pointed out, it seems like suicide to alienate everybody who currently has an HDTV and DD5.1 audio system. Bad enough they couldn't agree on BRD/HDDVD compatibility and implemented potentially forced down-rezzing over component video, and now this? Consumers will not be happy.


I guess the intent is to move toward secure delivery of high-quality video and audio solely across "100% secure (via AACS)" HDMI connections. Unfortunately, this requires users throwing out all current hardware and buying new properly HDMI-equipped AACS-compliant audio and video equipment (with full DD5.1 support via HDMI). Doubtful this will happen in numbers that justify the idea, but maybe they're just crazy paranoid about piracy.


Pretty amazing... if they go through with it.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

Considering what we have already seen with mp3s and the like, I wouldn't say they are crazy paranoid. They are being financially responsible, imho.


Do I like it?


No.


It is those that abused the system for the past 10+ years now making us all pay the price of this aggrevation.


----------



## Wallstridr

Going to night shift monday. I need to be watching my super TV while everyone else is sleeping. I have the best TV money can buy, now I need the best headphones I can buy. My HBR960 rocks!!! What should I buy,

HELP!!!!!

Roger


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wallstridr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I need to be watching my super TV while everyone else is sleeping. I have the best TV money can buy, now I need the best headphones I can buy. My HBR960 rocks!!! What should I buy



If you've got the money, the Stax Omega-II system is the best. SR-007 open-back electrostatic headphones, and SRM-007t (tube) headphone amp. These are the best sounding headphones you can buy (around $4k for the system). I've owned the older Omega-I version since 1996, and it's amazing.


I might also suggest considering the purchase of a Pioneer Dolby Headphone unit (about $400), so that you can listen to DD5.1/DTS/DPL digital audio through your new Stax headphones. Read this thread for a complete description of my experience.


Note that I also have a DBX 14/10 Computerized EQ (I'm the king of "they don't make it anymore") to go with my Stax, for 14-band tone control and realtime graphic spectrum analyzer. If you can find one of these on eBay (or it's predecessor the DBX 10/20, which I also own two of for other audio systems in my home) you will have scored nirvana. Currently I see none available, but a 10/20 did just recently get sold last week.


----------



## baller99

Mark my words: HDDVD and blue ray will fail as movie formats. DVD will be the norm until we have digital streaming high def content.


The list of negatives for the formats are well into the dozens, and the only positive is slightly improved picture quality that only a minute percent of households can take advantage of (going from dvd to hd isn't nearly the jump vhs to dvd was). It was hard convincing consumers to buy into the dvd format, it will be impossible with hd dvd. The formats will be relegated as to nothing more than a technological curiosity, in the same vein as laserdisc and sacd.


----------



## williamtassone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, it has HDMI.
> 
> 
> Will you be able to view a Blu-Ray in 1080P? No, because the set won't do 1080P.



It should be noted that when the XBR series of SuperFine Pitch televisions were designed in Japan the res was set at 1080 i because that's all that was available content wise.


High end CRT mointors exist in Japan that can resolve over 2000 horizontal lines of resolution. Progressively.The XBR960 could have easily been configured to scan at 1080p but there was no point.


Still 1080i Bluray HD-DVD will look fantastic on the 960


----------



## theanimala




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *williamtassone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It should be noted that when the XBR series of SuperFine Pitch televisions were designed in Japan the res was set at 1080 i because that's all that was available content wise.
> 
> 
> High end CRT mointors exist in Japan that can resolve over 2000 horizontal lines of resolution. Progressively.The XBR960 could have easily been configured to scan at 1080p but there was no point.
> 
> 
> Still 1080i Bluray HD-DVD will look fantastic on the 960



I don't pretend to be an expert, but I have to disagree with your comment. The XBR960 cannot resolve the full 1080 lines of resolution. 1080i vs 1080p does not mean that there are more pixels, just that they are shown more often. Secondly, I remember reading that to make the gun that draws the pixels to be fast enough to do progressive rather then interlaced would have been crazy expensive. Even if 1080P was on the horizon, I don't believe it would have been achievable in an affordable CRT set.


----------



## williamtassone

electron guns send beams that travel at over 160,000 miles per hour .Fast enough to paint at 1080p if Sony wanted too.


No point in 2002 when the Xbr910 was in development my friend


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *baller99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mark my words: HDDVD and blue ray will fail as movie formats. DVD will be the norm until we have digital streaming high def content.
> 
> 
> The list of negatives for the formats are well into the dozens, and the only positive is slightly improved picture quality that only a minute percent of households can take advantage of (going from dvd to hd isn't nearly the jump vhs to dvd was). It was hard convincing consumers to buy into the dvd format, it will be impossible with hd dvd. The formats will be relegated as to nothing more than a technological curiosity, in the same vein as laserdisc and sacd.



Once I saw a DVD picture for the first time I knew that VHS and Laser Disc were dead. The jump in picture quality was like night and day. However, I also wonder how much more a difference HDDVD will be compared to standard DVD? Most of today's DVD players produce fantasticly clear pictures with wonderful color and detail. The gap can't be as big compared to the earlier formats.


----------



## mapson

I don't think the hd-dvd will be a big jump over the standard dvd. Now I haven't seen any hd-dvds but right now, even EDTVs and HDTVs do not differ much in viewing, in spec, yes but not in terms of regular viewing.


----------



## joebxr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mapson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't think the hd-dvd will be a big jump over the standard dvd. Now I haven't seen any hd-dvds but right now, even EDTVs and HDTVs do not differ much in viewing, in spec, yes but not in terms of regular viewing.



The local BB has a HD-DVD Player and Demo HD-DVD from Sony, (prototype for demo only and not for sale) hooked to 60" SXRD, and I have to tell you, it is the most lifelike realistic picture I have ever seen. In any other setting you would think you are looking through your window and not at a picture on a TV. It was absolutely awesome and the most 3D like I've ever seen from any TV.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi all,


I'm still not sure what to do.


Over the past few months I've heard from so many who had their sets professionally callibrated, citing the beautiful picture they had prior to this investment and the even better picture they had after the configurations were done. Are there any in this forum who had their 960s callibrated but found little, if any, improvement to justify such an investment? We're very happy with the picture quality of our 960 (also see below) and do not wish to pay $200+ to confirm everything was optiminly set to begin with. I realize technicians often rush through final inspections but also feel many do take the time to properly callibrate the sets before leaving the factory.


I was in a local electronics store to see the newest generation of Plasmas and LCDs. For a change the video feed was equally distributed with color, contrasts, etc being just about even. While the performance of most were impressive no matter how large a screen each lacked a certain punch found in the 960 (and usually showrooms over-adjust settings to create an illusion of a mind-blowing picture).


Had I seen any Plasma or LCD of equal or better quality I would not hesitate to have my set callibrated since the 960 is regarded the standard bearer for High Definition. This was not the case - even the best was slightly below the 960s picture.


Thanks in advance,

Joe


----------



## williamtassone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Had I seen any Plasma or LCD of equal or better quality I would not hesitate to have my set callibrated since the 960 is regarded the standard bearer for High Definition. This was not the case - even the best was slightly below the 960s picture.
> 
> 
> Joe



Yep, - though I wouldn't have used the word slightly


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *williamtassone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yep, - though I wouldn't have used the word slightly



Hi William,


LOL, only used the word "slightly" so not to sound too pompous!


- Joe


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What Q hasn't grasped yet is the TV will tell the Player that 5.1 audio isn't doable on the TV set, so the player will take the 5.1 down 2.0 on the optical outputs of the player, according to spec as they are now.



Well, upon further research, and information presented in this thread on HD-DVD which admittedly may still contain much speculation, I'm not sure the BRD or HDDVD players will actually take DD/DTS 5.1 audio down to 2.0 on the optical outputs. That does, indeed, seem unjustified and unwarranted since even today's current SD DVD players and content provide that DD/DTS 5.1 audio over optical.


I believe that what seems to be a more accurate description of what's upcoming is that the optical/coax digital audio path will ONLY carry the conventional DD/DTS 5.1 or 2-channel PCM digital audio tracks, and not any of the new HD lossy/lossless codec data. This newer format digital audio will ONLY be available over HDMI 1.1 or higher connections, to one degree or another (depending on HDMI 1.1 or 1.3, for now). Yes, this will require new receivers or HDTV display devices in order to take advantage of the new lossy/lossless HD audio codecs from DD/DTS, but that does not seem unreasonable.


But the optical path will present either down-conversions to conventional DD/DTS of the newer format data (but at a higher bitrate than existing DD/DTS tracks), or just the conventional DD/DTS multi-channel tracks which are required to be present on the new BRD/HDDVD content. However I don't see any mention of forcing 2-channel PCM stereo over the optical path under any circumstances.


And so the many millions of currently installed existing digital audio receivers will NOT be obsoleted. They will simply not be able to take advantage of the new HD audio formats. But they will still be able to deliver DD/DTS digital audio from the new BRD/HDDVD content, as they do today from current SD DVD content.


Am I off base or correct?


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, upon further research, and information presented in this thread on HD-DVD which admittedly may still contain much speculation, I'm not sure the BRD or HDDVD players will actually take DD/DTS 5.1 audio down to 2.0 on the optical outputs. That does, indeed, seem unjustified and unwarranted since even today's current SD DVD players and content provide that DD/DTS 5.1 audio over optical.
> 
> 
> I believe that what seems to be a more accurate description of what's upcoming is that the optical/coax digital audio path will ONLY carry the conventional DD/DTS 5.1 or 2-channel PCM digital audio tracks, and not any of the new HD lossy/lossless codec data. This newer format digital audio will ONLY be available over HDMI 1.1 or higher connections, to one degree or another (depending on HDMI 1.1 or 1.3, for now). Yes, this will require new receivers or HDTV display devices in order to take advantage of the new lossy/lossless HD audio codecs from DD/DTS, but that does not seem unreasonable.
> 
> 
> But the optical path will present either down-conversions to conventional DD/DTS of the newer format data (but at a higher bitrate than existing DD/DTS tracks), or just the conventional DD/DTS multi-channel tracks which are required to be present on the new BRD/HDDVD content. However I don't see any mention of forcing 2-channel PCM stereo over the optical path under any circumstances.
> 
> 
> And so the many millions of currently installed existing digital audio receivers will NOT be obsoleted. They will simply not be able to take advantage of the new HD audio formats. But they will still be able to deliver DD/DTS digital audio from the new BRD/HDDVD content, as they do today from current SD DVD content.
> 
> 
> Am I off base or correct?



Off base. The chip in the TV controls ALL DIGITAL OUTPUTS on the player over the HDMI connection.


----------



## biffmalibu

Does anyone know of any "New In Box" KD-34XBR960 sets in the Seattle area??

I was out looking today after I had called around to see who had what... and of course a couple of them lied and said they had one,,, only to find out it was a 970 when I got there. I found a couple of 960's at Frys in Renton for $1299 and the manager would have discounted it, but I didn't buy one because:

#1...they were floor models, #2 the cabinets were beat up and #3 who knows how many thousands of hours they've been on display, turned on?

I wish the 970 had the better tube in it, because it is cheaper and more readily available, but I found the 960 clearly had superior picture quality just as some people have testified to here in the forum. Even my wife (who is usually not too picky about stuff like this) said that the 960 blew everything else on the shelf away!!!!

So, I will continue my search for a KD-34XBR960N or no N.

I just hope I don't have to drive to another state to get it and I don't want to order it online for obvious reasons,, but I may have to.

Bye the way,, I forgot, does the N designate the anti-reflective coating?

If it has the N on the number does it *have* the anti-reflective coating or *not*??


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Off base. The chip in the TV controls ALL DIGITAL OUTPUTS on the player over the HDMI connection.



Seems to be in conflict with the discussion of HDDVD and BRD described in the "Battle Of The Formats" recap article by Danny Richelieu that appeared in the January 2006 article of Widescreen Review.


For example, quoting from page 66 in the discussion of DTS HD:


"If you currently own an A/V receiver and you're very pleased with it, you can connect the S/PDIF output from your new player into your A/V receiver and you'll get the same DTS that you get today, except it'll be higher quality, because most of the people have been bandwidth limited on DVD, and most of the titles have been 754 kbps. Going forward, you'll be able to get 1.5 Mbps DTS over that S/PDIF. DTS HD also offers lossless. Now, you're going to have to upgrade your receiver to get one that has the new HDMI connector on it. Then you'll connect the HDMI connector out of the player into that A/V receiver, and you'll cover the entire bitstream bit-for-bit accurate."


This certainly seems common-sensical (rather than suicidal) on the part of the manufacturers, to at least retain compatibility with current DVD players and home theater receivers and systems insofar as continuing to support current multi-channel DTS/DD unimpaired out of the new players and content. Requiring new receivers, with HDMI 1.1+ connectivity, in order to handle the newer HD audio formats, does not seem unreasonable.


----------



## TwinTurboZX

Anyone have good results with HDMI players with the 960? I just bought a Sony 75H and found the picture to be considerably softer and lacking detail @ 720p/1080i compared to my Sony 575P outputting 480i.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TwinTurboZX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone have good results with HDMI players with the 960? I just bought a Sony 75H and found the picture to be considerably softer and lacking detail @ 720p/1080i compared to my Sony 575P outputting 480i.



I have my Onkyo DVSP1000 connected to the XBR960 via HDMI and set to 1080i and the picture looks HD-like, depending on the quality of the actual source material.


----------



## SurfingMatt27




> Quote:
> Anyone have good results with HDMI players with the 960? I just bought a Sony 75H and found the picture to be considerably softer and lacking detail @ 720p/1080i compared to my Sony 575P outputting 480i.



There is a lot of variables to that, Either your tv does a better job at deinterlacing or your DVD player does,and it depends like Q said from the source material which would be the DVD itself if it is of High Quality.Many DVD's are very good quality but there is still a majority that are'nt mastered well and basically the studios did a sloppy job making the transfer of film to Disc.


It's best though to have the DVD player do the deinterlacing though since it keeps the signal in the digital domain.Keep in mind also that DVD is only 480i so you can only do so much to make it better.


You may want to return that Upconverting player if you don't see any benefit,i had first hand experiance on the highly regarded OPPO and while it's Deinterlacing is bar none the best out there for it's price i found it's upconversion lacking,there was'nt that much difference from 480p on my Sony 480p player.Like you i want High quality Content and it looks like i'm just going to have to wait for the High Def DVD's coming soon.


I can live with Regualr DVD for a while sure it's not as sharp and defined as HD,but it's good enough for now.In fact there are some DVD's that don't look much different than the HD versions, The Fifth Element :Superbit edition is a good example of how well a DVD can look.I've seen the HD version and it does'nt look that much different than the DVD.


Right now i prefur DVD's at 480P since it's one of my tv's Native resolutions and it's best to feed the tv a native resolution that way there is no scaling issues.So even though you have an upconverting player you may run into scaling issues unless you have a player with a high quality deinterlacer like a Faroudja chipset. I look at it like this...DVD is as good as it get's!


----------



## kellen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *biffmalibu* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone know of any "New In Box" KD-34XBR960 sets in the Seattle area??
> 
> I was out looking today after I had called around to see who had what... and of course a couple of them lied and said they had one,,, only to find out it was a 970 when I got there. I found a couple of 960's at Frys in Renton for $1299 and the manager would have discounted it, but I didn't buy one because:
> 
> #1...they were floor models, #2 the cabinets were beat up and #3 who knows how many thousands of hours they've been on display, turned on?
> 
> I wish the 970 had the better tube in it, because it is cheaper and more readily available, but I found the 960 clearly had superior picture quality just as some people have testified to here in the forum. Even my wife (who is usually not too picky about stuff like this) said that the 960 blew everything else on the shelf away!!!!
> 
> So, I will continue my search for a KD-34XBR960N or no N.
> 
> I just hope I don't have to drive to another state to get it and I don't want to order it online for obvious reasons,, but I may have to.
> 
> Bye the way,, I forgot, does the N designate the anti-reflective coating?
> 
> If it has the N on the number does it *have* the anti-reflective coating or *not*??



I picked one up a couple of months ago. Best Buy didn't have any in stock, but had a lot in their warehouse. Try magnolia Hi-Fi. You might get lucky with video only, as they had them on sale for cheap, but were sold out last I checked. Same with the sony outlet store in tulalip (seattle prime outlets), they had the 960 in the three digit price range, but last I checked they were out. Perhaps they might have the 34xs955? Circuit City is out of stock in Bellevue for sure.


----------



## jude82

i just wanted to chime in on this issue that some people are noticing. i also notice it quite frequently. i notice it on all sources and its most apparent at night when my room is pitch dark aside from the tv. i have noticed it particularly in the godfather movies where there are a lot of dark scenes with a light or two in the background. it definitely seems to be a phosphor issue, as opposed to video processing. i can tell because at night, when the room is totally dark, i can turn off the tv and still see the outline of the images on the tv. and to be sure its not my eyes playing tricks, the same thing happens when i close my eyes and then turn off the set and then open them immediately. guess i'll have to just live with it though as it seems its not just a defective set. the picture aside from that is really amazing.


----------



## SurfingMatt27

It will go away once you have owned the set for a while..I have owned my 34" sony for 3 years now and i don't have any issues with trailing what so ever.I noticed it at first like you but once the tv ages it goes away trust me.


----------



## Artwood

Has anyone ever seen a trailing silk-screen screen-door rainbow before? I thought I saw one when watching "In search of Big Foot's direct-view CRT" but somebody dropped beer on my glasses when I was trying to check out the lower viewing angle from the floor!


----------



## TwinTurboZX

^^^

Artwood strikes again!!


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Seems to be in conflict with the discussion of HDDVD and BRD described in the "Battle Of The Formats" recap article by Danny Richelieu that appeared in the January 2006 article of Widescreen Review.
> 
> 
> For example, quoting from page 66 in the discussion of DTS HD:
> 
> 
> "If you currently own an A/V receiver and you're very pleased with it, you can connect the S/PDIF output from your new player into your A/V receiver and you'll get the same DTS that you get today, except it'll be higher quality, because most of the people have been bandwidth limited on DVD, and most of the titles have been 754 kbps. Going forward, you'll be able to get 1.5 Mbps DTS over that S/PDIF. DTS HD also offers lossless. Now, you're going to have to upgrade your receiver to get one that has the new HDMI connector on it. Then you'll connect the HDMI connector out of the player into that A/V receiver, and you'll cover the entire bitstream bit-for-bit accurate."
> 
> 
> This certainly seems common-sensical (rather than suicidal) on the part of the manufacturers, to at least retain compatibility with current DVD players and home theater receivers and systems insofar as continuing to support current multi-channel DTS/DD unimpaired out of the new players and content. Requiring new receivers, with HDMI 1.1+ connectivity, in order to handle the newer HD audio formats, does not seem unreasonable.




As I stated earlier, you can connect to the Receiver if it has HDMI 1.1 and it will take that as the device to send 5.1 out and pass the video through the receiver to the TV.


However, the question then becomes will the 960 support HDMI 1.1 as 1.0 will not work and there is confusion on if the 960 has 1.0 or 1.1 support as it was one of the very first devices with a HDMI device - the 910 prior to it had DVI.


As also stated, a firmware upgrade could possibily update it to 1.1 if it is at 1.0 as most suspect, but will a firmware upgrade come?


Regardless, you will need a Receiver with a HDMI passthrough as stated in the article you posted. And many of the first HDMI Receivers, just like TV's only had HDMI 1.0 in them.


----------



## williamtassone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have my Onkyo DVSP1000
> 
> 
> .



Aha!


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As I stated earlier, you can connect to the Receiver if it has HDMI 1.1 and it will take that as the device to send 5.1 out and pass the video through the receiver to the TV.
> 
> 
> However, the question then becomes will the 960 support HDMI 1.1 as 1.0 will not work and there is confusion on if the 960 has 1.0 or 1.1 support as it was one of the very first devices with a HDMI device - the 910 prior to it had DVI.
> 
> 
> Regardless, you will need a Receiver with a HDMI passthrough as stated in the article you posted. And many of the first HDMI Receivers, just like TV's only had HDMI 1.0 in them.



Still not the point I'm trying to make.


My point relates to the use of "conventional" S/PDIF (i.e. OPTICAL or COAX) digital audio connection method from the new BRD/HDDVD players to an existing current "conventional" receiver that probably does not have HDMI connectivity of any level. Say a Yamaha RX-V3300, for example. Actually, this discussion concerns the optical/coax connection method in general, even if a newer receiver is involved which might also have an HDMI connection path available.


And the general consensus of forum contributors (as well as the Widescreen Review article) is that using this "conventional" optical/coax digital audio connection method between the new players and a receiver will continue to provide old-fashioned multi-channel digital audio processing of old-fashioned multi-channel DD/DTS digital audio streams (though perhaps at a higher bitrate than is currently available from today's SD DVD's).


It is 100% agreed by all that in order to take advantage of any of the newer HD digital audio codec formats (lossy or lossless), that HDMI 1.1 or higher connectivity paths will be required in order to deliver that new format datastream from a new player to a new HDMI-enabled receiver. This is because of two reasons, namely (1) only newer receivers will provide decoding ability for the new format HD audio datastreams, and (2) the new format HD audio datastreams are only going to be passed over the HDMI 1.1+ cable and not over conventional optical/coax cables.


Now as to how the XBR960 (with its [likely] HDMI 1.0 connector) will fit into this, it seems to me that it will NOT have any effect on the audio consequences over the S/PDIF optical/coax connections from the new players to existing receivers. As I stated above, these paths will continue to provide digital audio streams with today's multi-channel DD/DTS format unimpaired and not re-encoded into 2-channel versions... having nothing to do with the new HD audio formats which will never be passed over optical/coax under any circumstances. You will not lose conventional DD/DTS audio from the new BRD/HDDVD content if you only have a conventional receiver connected via conventional optical/coax to the new player. And this is the case no matter how you have your display device (e.g. XBR960) connected to the new player and no matter if HDMI 1.0 is used for this video connection. The optical/coax digital audio path out of the new players remains exactly as it is in today's SD DVD players, providing conventional multi-channel DD/DTS digital audio to a conventional receiver.


I'm speculating that the intended configuration for "optimal" audio results with a new BRD/HDDVD player and XBR960 would be (a) an HDMI 1.1+ connection from the player to a newly purchased and properly HDMI-enabled receiver in order to take advantage of the new HD audio formats, and then (b) an HDMI 1.0 (probably) connection from the receiver to the XBR960 in order to provide 1080i video to the set. This does not require any firmware upgrade in the XBR960, as (a) the set is capable of receiving 1080i over HDMI 1.0 today, and (b) using this connection sequence the set does not prevent new HD audio from being handled by the new receiver which is properly HDMI 1.1+ connected to the new player.


Alternatively, one could connect the new player to the XBR960 via HDMI 1.0 and still get 1080i video displayed, while at the same time connecting the new player to an existing audio receiver using conventional S/PDIF (optical or coax) method which would provide conventional multi-channel DD/DTS digital audio (perhaps at a higher bitrate) through the existing current home theater sound system. No new HD audio formats possible using this method, but it would be exactly the same multi-channel DD/DTS audio (maybe improved a bit) as you get from today's SD DVD's coupled with 1080i video (as is available today from today's upconverting SD DVD players) but from "native" 1080 BRD/HDDVD content.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

It's not going to work long term over the optical output like you think. Even the article you posted appreared to speak to that fact.


I can't tell you more than I have already told you.


Everywhere I look I continue to read more and more about things being tightened down more and more.


Take a look at cdrinfo.com on their story about the 6 month grace period for AACS and it should really give you shivers when you realize how tied down this is.

http://www.cdrinfo.com/Sections/News...x?NewsId=16670 


If you can't understand what that is saying, it will be virtually impossible for some of the Chinese duplicators to make Blu-Ray movies for the street as the media won't record without the proper codes in them.


And then last Thursday:

 


I'm sorry if you and others hope for the best, but that's not what being said.


----------



## kellen

Still not seeing where they say they will downsample the sound to stereo. On that page you posted, it just says that it requires the appropriate digital connections.


Perhaps all they are saying is that you must have a digital connection (optical, digital coax) to take advantage of these features.


On the same site, at here they say that the new toshiba player will continue to send out 5.1 via the digital out OR you can use the HDMI


----------



## nraval

Hello, this is my first post. I received my brand new KD-34XBR960N TV about a week ago.


I am enjoying it, however, I have a couple of issues. First, my dad loves to keep the TV on the "Vivid" setting as colors look the boldest when at the level. I think the TV's tube life will be reduced significantly as the picture value is set to "MAX" when in "Vivid" mode.


Also, I think the TV is great, but it just isn't sharp. It doesn't look as crisp as I thought it would. Would an ISF calibration make any difference?


Thanks for reading this and I look forward to your responses!


----------



## gigaguy

I would definitely turn Vivid off, eso as the tube is new and breaking in. Also, I turned Sharpness to near 0 and clarity improved. take some time trying different settings, but running Vivid and high picture settings is not good for the set IMO.


----------



## big_lou




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *S. Hiller* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For those of you still looking to pick up a 34XBR960, check out Fry's Electronics. Might be able to get one heck of a deal on close out.
> 
> 
> (For practical reasons, looks like my GDM-F520 will be my last tube. Alas...)




Seriously though, I have heard from several sources that Fry's has a reputation of repackaging returned merchandise and selling it as new. Also, I don't think their sales people are very knowledgeable and that probably also goes true for the people handling the TV sets in the warehouse. I am not sure I would buy something as delicate as an XBR960 from them.


Fry's quoted me $150 for a 5-year, in-house, extended warranty for this set !! I am not sure I would get quality customer service for this price. When I asked them what would happen if they could not fix the set they said they would replace it with something comparable at that price. I don't think Fry's will be carrying XBR960's in 5 years so what would they repalce it with, I asked? They said the 970's are just coming out and since it is a newer model that's probably what I would get as a repalcement. I tried to explain to the sales guy that the 960 is superior to the 970 but he insisted that the higher model # meant it was a better unit.


Pacific Sales quoted almost $350 for the same plan for the KD-34XS955N but they have a muchbetter reputation for customer service. Unfortunately they would have to order the 955N so I would probably end up paying more for the 955 than for the 960!!


Has anyone had any good or bad experiences with HDTV's purchased at Fry's Electronics that they would like to share with the rest of us? Thanks in advance!!


Lou


----------



## lzzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nraval* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello, this is my first post. I received my brand new KD-34XBR960N TV about a week ago.
> 
> 
> I am enjoying it, however, I have a couple of issues. First, my dad loves to keep the TV on the "Vivid" setting as colors look the boldest when at the level. I think the TV's tube life will be reduced significantly as the picture value is set to "MAX" when in "Vivid" mode.
> 
> 
> Also, I think the TV is great, but it just isn't sharp. It doesn't look as crisp as I thought it would. Would an ISF calibration make any difference?
> 
> 
> Thanks for reading this and I look forward to your responses!



Change the setting when he's not looking and this is an HDTV if you want a great picture you need to feed it a great source.


----------



## christophersj

I bought one of the last ones at Fry's in Burbank, CA and had them deliver it. The box was dented but the TV in the foam was pristine and works perfectly (except for those normal focus convergence errors that I gotta handle -- and learn the Service Menu!) I'm a happy camper.


-Christopher Johnson


----------



## Mongoose

In response to your question big_lou, I just bought a 960N from the Concord, Ca. Fry's. I had purchased one from ABT but it arrived damaged and will be picked up tomorrow. I found a new replacement at Fry's. My experience from purchase to delivery was great. The item was indeed new, in the box, and the delivery was far more adept than the inept white glove service provided by ABT. I realize that this is only a single incidence among many, but at least I can attest that they're not all bad.


----------



## joehyuk

Just purchased an 34XBR960. While this isn't a strict 960 question, I thought people here might know. The one I purchased (last new-in-box one that they had) had a box that was pretty banged up. When they opened it up so I could take a look, I found that the styrofoam for the left-front corner was broken into several pieces. The tv itself looked fine, but I haven't tried turning it on yet, since it won't be delivered until Friday. If there is no physical damage to the exterior of the tv, is there likely to be any damage to the interior components? How can I test whether there is damage? Other than checking to see whether the tv turns on and the picture looks ok, of course. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## williamtassone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joehyuk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just purchased an 34XBR960. While this isn't a strict 960 question, I thought people here might know. The one I purchased (last new-in-box one that they had) had a box that was pretty banged up. When they opened it up so I could take a look, I found that the styrofoam for the left-front corner was broken into several pieces. The tv itself looked fine, but I haven't tried turning it on yet, since it won't be delivered until Friday. If there is no physical damage to the exterior of the tv, is there likely to be any damage to the interior components? How can I test whether there is damage? Other than checking to see whether the tv turns on and the picture looks ok, of course. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.



These things are as robust as hell. The components can't be dislodged because they are all soldered down to the circuit boards. The aperture grill is high tensile alloy -you'd need a significant fall to break one of the filaments. The glass was developed by NASA and can resist huge forces before cracking ( Sony licensed the tech for its FD superfine pitch tubes from NASA)


If the electron guns were somehow thrown out youd see it as soon as u power on.


Turn it on . If it looks fine everything is ok and enjoy the show.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nraval* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello, this is my first post. I received my brand new KD-34XBR960N TV about a week ago.
> 
> 
> I am enjoying it, however, I have a couple of issues. First, my dad loves to keep the TV on the "Vivid" setting as colors look the boldest when at the level. I think the TV's tube life will be reduced significantly as the picture value is set to "MAX" when in "Vivid" mode.
> 
> 
> Also, I think the TV is great, but it just isn't sharp. It doesn't look as crisp as I thought it would. Would an ISF calibration make any difference?
> 
> 
> Thanks for reading this and I look forward to your responses!



Congratulations on your 960, and for being one of the last to be able to purchase it brand new!


Your family would not be able to even come near to appreciating the pristine quality of the picture with it set in the vivid mode and picture adjusted to max. And it will decrease the life span of the tube (and while your dad might love seeing the color at its strongest it is way too much and un-natural).


Final adjustments depend upon taste of the individual. Most on this forum use the "pro" mode with picture set to high 30s or low 40s, brightness in the low 30s,

low sharpness, tinue (hue) near or slightly below neutral and medium color.


A great aid to set your TV properly would be to catch the HD test patterns run on INHD every Saturday morning at 7:00 AM Eastern. This is about a 15 minute program which will guide through proper adjustments for picture, brightness, color and tint.


----------



## nraval

Thanks everyone for the advice. I'll try the setttings tonight when I get back home.


Does anyone recommend an ISF calibration on this set?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nraval* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone for the advice. I'll try the setttings tonight when I get back home.
> 
> 
> Does anyone recommend an ISF calibration on this set?




Are you kidding? It pretty much goes without saying. YES!


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=561596 

^^

See what you think after reading some of that.


----------



## tanis38

Hello all, I have an inquiry to make.


I've had my XBR960 since last June and I love it. The HD picture is great, although I absolutely hate how my Direct TV looks on it, but that's fine. Most of the time I use it for DVDs and videogames (360 looks beautiful on it).


Anyway, for a while now I've noticed something with my screen that has bothered me. I now have about three horizontal lines which I can see on the screen. They are practically unnoticeable to the naked eye and really can only be seen if there is a solid bright color on the screen. But I guess the best way to describe it is that they look like dead scan lines (or something, I'm not familiar with the technical terms of tvs). Like I said, there are three of them, one towards the top and the then two more towards the bottom. It is not an issue when watching movies, but now that I am aware of them, I almost tend to look for them and they bother me when I finally see them in very bright scenes, like an all white screen or bright solid color in the background. I tend to notice it more when playing games than anything else. Like in the sky of the game I am playing (I noticed it a lot while playing Shadow of the Colossus which has a very bright, saturated lighting effect most of the time).


Has anyone encountered something like this? Is this something that can be fixed with calibration? I live on the 3rd floor of an apartment and I would really hate to go through the trouble of having to send my set somewhere to get repaired. I'm just worried that something might be wrong with my screen and more of these lines will slowly start to show up.


Any info is appreciated and if needed I could try to explain it a little better.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tanis38* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello all, I have an inquiry to make.
> 
> 
> I've had my XBR960 since last June and I love it. The HD picture is great, although I absolutely hate how my Direct TV looks on it, but that's fine. Most of the time I use it for DVDs and videogames (360 looks beautiful on it).
> 
> 
> Anyway, for a while now I've noticed something with my screen that has bothered me. I now have about three horizontal lines which I can see on the screen. They are practically unnoticeable to the naked eye and really can only be seen if there is a solid bright color on the screen. But I guess the best way to describe it is that they look like dead scan lines (or something, I'm not familiar with the technical terms of tvs). Like I said, there are three of them, one towards the top and the then two more towards the bottom. It is not an issue when watching movies, but now that I am aware of them, I almost tend to look for them and they bother me when I finally see them in very bright scenes, like an all white screen or bright solid color in the background. I tend to notice it more when playing games than anything else. Like in the sky of the game I am playing (I noticed it a lot while playing Shadow of the Colossus which has a very bright, saturated lighting effect most of the time).
> 
> 
> Has anyone encountered something like this? Is this something that can be fixed with calibration? I live on the 3rd floor of an apartment and I would really hate to go through the trouble of having to send my set somewhere to get repaired. I'm just worried that something might be wrong with my screen and more of these lines will slowly start to show up.
> 
> 
> Any info is appreciated and if needed I could try to explain it a little better.



While I haven't noticed it others in the forum have pointed out this is not a defect and part of the way the set is built. If you go back a few months or so, you might come across it. But don't worry, it's not your set - and they might become less noticable with slightly darker settings.


- Joe


----------



## motorhead7319

You are not alone i have those three vertical lines too, i vaguely remember someone saying something about they are holding in the aperture grill or something like that.


----------



## tanis38

Thanks Joseph and motorhead. I feel better now. Let me go back a few months and see if I find some more info on this.


EDIT: Ah, found it. Back on 2/19/06, Fellfromgrace wrote about this same problem and did a much better job describing it than I did. He wrote:

_"Another problem this set had (and sorry I dont know very many technical terms) was about 3 or 4 "dead lines" I like to call them. These were very thin completely black horizontal lines that went across the tv from one side to the other. It was like those lines of the tv had not been turned on, no matter what was being displayed on the tv, those would always be black. They were VERY thin as in you would really have to look for them in order to notice it. But since I knew they were there I always did."_


That's EXACTLY what I'm getting.


Dsperber then wrote the following:
_

"If I follow this description correctly, I think you are talking not about something which is the "absence" of a scan line from the electron gun of the tube. Rather, these are truly and actually very very thin wires which run horizontally across the back of the glass. The wires actually press the "aperture grill" (which you can't see) up against the back of the glass and hold it there."_


Sorry, just wanted to post that in case somebody else is noticing this problem, to make it easier for them. I gotta admit, I feel alot better because I thought something was wrong with my set. Those damn lines still annoy the hell out me though


----------



## big_lou




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *S. Hiller* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Check out the clearances. I've seen some incredible prices on new units. (That glare coating is an important part of the set.)



I just had the chance to compare a 34XBR960, 34XBR960N, and 34XS955N side by side in a store. The last two (N models) exhibited significantly higher (brighter) glare off the screen whereas the non-N model exhibited lower (duller) glare. This seems consistent with the discussions I have found in this forum.


Since they were out of the non-N model, is there a way (i.e. video settings?) to compensate for the excessive glare from the "N" models, other than turning off all the lights in the room? TIA for any replies.


Lou


----------



## big_lou




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DaRiv* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> these are on sale for the next week:
> 
> http://www.boltz.com/productinfo.asp...&deptcode1=503



Seems like both stands have glass tops and probably designed for large LCD screens where the weight (less than 100 lbs) is spread out over 50" or 60". Will the glass be strong enough to not buckle (and break?) under the weight of the 34XBR960?


I think the Sony stands are a bit too low to the floor for optimal viewing angle when sitting (slouching) down on a couch. Has anyone tried using an aquarium stand for the XBR960?


----------



## jet757f




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tanis38* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks Joseph and motorhead. I feel better now. Let me go back a few months and see if I find some more info on this.
> 
> 
> EDIT: Ah, found it. Back on 2/19/06, Fellfromgrace wrote about this same problem and did a much better job describing it than I did. He wrote:
> 
> _"Another problem this set had (and sorry I dont know very many technical terms) was about 3 or 4 "dead lines" I like to call them. These were very thin completely black horizontal lines that went across the tv from one side to the other. It was like those lines of the tv had not been turned on, no matter what was being displayed on the tv, those would always be black. They were VERY thin as in you would really have to look for them in order to notice it. But since I knew they were there I always did."_
> 
> 
> That's EXACTLY what I'm getting.
> 
> 
> Dsperber then wrote the following:
> _
> 
> "If I follow this description correctly, I think you are talking not about something which is the "absence" of a scan line from the electron gun of the tube. Rather, these are truly and actually very very thin wires which run horizontally across the back of the glass. The wires actually press the "aperture grill" (which you can't see) up against the back of the glass and hold it there."_
> 
> 
> Sorry, just wanted to post that in case somebody else is noticing this problem, to make it easier for them. I gotta admit, I feel alot better because I thought something was wrong with my set. Those damn lines still annoy the hell out me though



If you have a Sony computer monitor you will notice the same. These are commpon for the aperture type screens........wires that hold the screen up. Actually they are more noticeable on computer screens.


----------



## jet757f




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *big_lou* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Seems like both stands have glass tops and probably designed for large LCD screens where the weight (less than 100 lbs) is spread out over 50" or 60". Will the glass be strong enough to not buckle (and break?) under the weight of the 34XBR960?
> 
> 
> I think the Sony stands are a bit too low to the floor for optimal viewing angle when sitting (slouching) down on a couch. Has anyone tried using an aquarium stand for the XBR960?




I have mine on top of a wood armoire. The height is around 52 inches and the width 40 inches. Can see it perfectly lying down in bed. I figured the perfect height to be between 40" and 52" for the bedroom if it is in front of your bed.

Any lower and it is hard to see.


----------



## seti1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jet757f* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have mine on top of a wood armoire. The height is around 52 inches and the width 40 inches. Can see it perfectly lying down in bed. I figured the perfect height to be between 40" and 52" for the bedroom if it is in front of your bed.
> 
> Any lower and it is hard to see.



Placed the 960N in the bedroom in a entertainment center I built 20 years ago that previously housed a 25" XBR. I modified it to fit the 960N. Here is a picture:










The top of the TV is at 68" and it works great for watching TV while lying down in bed. That is if I don't fall asleep during the show. But that's what Tivos are nice for.


----------



## baller99

1) Is that groundhog's day?

2) Are you persian?


----------



## nraval

Okay, I adjusted the TV according to what was suggested on this forum (Pro, with picture and brightness in the 30s / 40s value) and it looks a little too dim. I turned up the brightness and picture settings to compensate for this.


One thing that I am still disappointed about is that the images don't have a bright punch!


I have a smaller Sony Wega upstairs and my Shrek Two DVD just has a nice bright crisp "glow" on the characters that the 960N just doesn't seem to be able to produce. The pictures settings on the smaller TV are NOT maxed out.


Any suggestions? Is ISF calibration the only way to fix this? Can anyone suggest a good ISF calibrator in the Northern NJ area that's good and NOT too expensive?


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nraval* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Okay, I adjusted the TV according to what was suggested on this forum (Pro, with picture and brightness in the 30s / 40s value) and it looks a little too dim. I turned up the brightness and picture settings to compensate for this.
> 
> 
> One thing that I am still disappointed about is that the images don't have a bright punch!
> 
> 
> ...Any suggestions? Is ISF calibration the only way to fix this? Can anyone suggest a good ISF calibrator in the Northern NJ area that's good and NOT too expensive?



You really need to get a calibration DVD (Avia, DVE) and properly calibrate your new set. This cannot be done by just eyeballing the results of tweaking the menu. These DVDs provide test patterns that giude you through a proper calibration. Once done you'll get that picture you're looking for. Both DVDs are available from Amazon.com.


----------



## high def mon

I use PRO for HD sources only, actually I'm all over the place in SD, in some of the dark passages in 24 and Lost vivid is the only way to go. I have a DVR and the luxury of being able to pause and adjust. I hardly ever use pro for DVD's


P.S. I haven't watched a commercial in five years.


P. P.S I agree with justsc


----------



## nraval

I already own Digital Video Essentials. After playing around with it, the screen seems to be darker than normal.


----------



## DaRiv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *big_lou* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Seems like both stands have glass tops and probably designed for large LCD screens where the weight (less than 100 lbs) is spread out over 50" or 60". Will the glass be strong enough to not buckle (and break?) under the weight of the 34XBR960?
> 
> 
> I think the Sony stands are a bit too low to the floor for optimal viewing angle when sitting (slouching) down on a couch. Has anyone tried using an aquarium stand for the XBR960?



it is not glass, it is steel. i bought this stand on sale and it is great. the casters really make it nice way to wheel it around the room. the tvx1 is lower than the tvx2, that's my only complaint. plus it has much more storage space than the OEM Sonystand


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nraval* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I already own Digital Video Essentials. After playing around with it, the screen seems to be darker than normal.



I've been unable to get Pro mode looking bright enough on my XBR960 either, especially when comparing movies on my Sony 32HS510 hdtv , I just stick with Standard mode myself.


----------



## seti1

Ever notice how text gets blury when the contrast and picture is set too high?

It is specially noticible if your in the iLink screen.


Also SD content on certain DTV channels, look a little fuzzy from close up. Not too bad from eight feet away though. Really love that Charter HD signal though!


----------



## williamtassone

Those 3 horizontal lines you guys are seeing are the stabilising filaments.


An inherent part of aperture grill technology.


Id rather 3 miniscule horizontal lines than the 1000 odd horizontal lines of the accursed shadow mask grills.


Remember Sony won an Emmy Award for its aperture grill- till SED arrives thats as good as it gets.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *justsc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You really need to get a calibration DVD (Avia, DVE) and properly calibrate your new set. This cannot be done by just eyeballing the results of tweaking the menu. These DVDs provide test patterns that giude you through a proper calibration. Once done you'll get that picture you're looking for. Both DVDs are available from Amazon.com.



The only drawback to using a DVD callibration disc is that it is geared for DVD and the settings will not be as sufficient when used for HD. For example, adjustments for my DVD input were made using a THX optomizer which are different from HD settings (HDMI) based on the 1080i test pattern broadcast on INHD.


Suggest you purchase a callibration disc for DVD and tune into INHD Saturday mornings at 7:00 AM for your HD. If you happen to have a HD DVR then you don't have to get up so early and can use it a few times until your satisfied with the results.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *justsc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You really need to get a calibration DVD (Avia, DVE) and properly calibrate your new set. This cannot be done by just eyeballing the results of tweaking the menu. These DVDs provide test patterns that giude you through a proper calibration. Once done you'll get that picture you're looking for. Both DVDs are available from Amazon.com.



The only drawback is that a DVD callibration disc is geared for DVD and the same menu settings will not be as sufficient when used for HD. For example, adjustments for my DVD input were made using a THX optomizer and are different from my HD settings (HDMI) which were based on the 1080i test pattern broadcast on INHD.


Suggest you purchase a callibration disc for DVD and tune into INHD Saturday mornings at 7:00 AM (EDT) for HD. If you have a HD DVR you can record it and won't have to get up so early (and it can be used as often as you like until satisfied with the results). One of the many beauties of the 960 is it supports separate settings for each video input - take advantage of it.


----------



## nraval

I get HD, OTA from an $13.00 antenna I bought from Target. I don't care, the picture looks amazing!










Will the picture look better if I were to subscribe to HD from my DirecTV?


What channel does INHD come on?


----------



## nraval

I get HD, OTA from a $13.00 antenna I bought from Target. I don't care, the picture looks amazing!










Will the picture look better if I were to subscribe to HD from my DirecTV?


What channel does INHD come on?


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

No, it will look worse if you subscribe to Directv.


INHD comes on cable only at this point.


----------



## DJF(NJ)

Hi everyone, just found this forum yesterday. If only I found it 2 years ago, I would have saved a bunch of money and most likely all my questions answered. This is gonna be a bit long but I thought I'd share my experience with the KD-34XBR960.


It all began two years ago, when finally I had money to start my home theatre project that I had dreamt about since I was in my teens(I'm 30 now.)


I hadnt kept up on very much of the progress of TV's. I was a bit blinded by all the hype of plasma and LCD. I ended up getting the Sony KF-50WE610 LCD/rear projection TV. I didnt do any real research(BIG MISTAKE) and thought this would be an excellent TV. I play alot of games and thought this would be good for that as well. Well, I was very dissapointed in its performance. It looked great in the store with HI-DEF material, but games were bad as well as SDTV.


I finally did some research and was shocked to read that the tube TVs were getting the best reviews for picture quality---better than plasmas! I came upon the 960 which had just been released on Sony. I gave the 50 incher to my Mom for her birthday and quickly ordered the 960 in June of 04. By August I still didnt have it, but I saw that Crutchfield had it in stock. Cancelled my order with Sony and ordered from them. Had it in 5 days with free shipping.


To this date, I've no problems. HD material with HDMI is incredible!!!! Kicks the crap out of the one I gave my mother. I have a Denon 2910 DVD player with 1080i upconversion through the HDMI cable as well and it looks great too! The best thing about this TV is the black levels! Watching Sin City on HD blew me away!!! Even watching coming attractions on the Universal HD channel looked better than when I saw the same coming attractions in a digital theatre!


My only gripes are it doesnt handle SDTV too well when compared to my Sony KV-20TS32(purchased in 94) which is in my bedroom. As for games, it tends to do better with the polygon based games from PS2/Xbox through component cables----sharper, better color but the jagged edges are more apparent. Now my sprite based games from my older systems through S-Video look better on the old TV in my bedroom. On the 960 they look bland---almost washed out. I'm looking forward to playing the next-gen systems on this TV, however. Even Sony said in their ads that this TV was designed specifially for HD, so perhaps not much thought was given to SD???


Oh one other thing is the 3 horizontal lines that are visible in very light scenes. At first I thought that was abnormal but was told that is the design it.


The only TVs that I have seen in person that performs(HD material) close to this TV are the Pioneer Pro Elite models. I mentioned this to a salesman at my local Harvey Electronics store and he passed me off like some peasant and claimed that nothing beats plasma. I politely smiled and walked out.


I really hope the rumors I keep hearing are false that Sony CRTs are being discontinued. Sony seemed to pioneer the CRT design over the past 20 or more years. I'm more than happy with screen size due to my living room setup, but I would love to see a 1080p XBR model. Is it even possible???? If the rumors are true maybe these forthcoming SED TVs would be the way to go, once the rumored price drops...if at all?!?


Sorry to make this long, I'm sure many feelings similar to my own have been post in the last 134 pages, I just didnt feel like going through all of them.


Any and all comments welcome.


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DJF(NJ)* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I mentioned this to a salesman at my local Harvey Electronics store and he passed me off like some peasant and claimed that nothing beats plasma.



He's right! Nothing beats plasma for putting fat commission checks in salespeople's wallets










On a serious note, you shouldn't be able to see the 3 wires (even on light scenes), at a normal viewing distance (>5'). What mode and brightess level are you using?


----------



## nraval

If I keep the screen on the TV in "normal" mode (i.e. - 4:3 format), will the vertical black bars on the left and right side of the screen cause a burn in?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nraval* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If I keep the screen on the TV in "normal" mode (i.e. - 4:3 format), will the vertical black bars on the left and right side of the screen cause a burn in?



No.


----------



## Mathesar

Somebody convince me NOT to return my XBR960, I love the dvd / movie / HD channel quality but im finding video games suffering from substantial black crush (Xbox 360) just when I think I have it all fixed in the service menu I pop in another game and im back to square one, I talked to Crutchfield and they offered to give me a refund even tho its 2 weeks past the 30 day return period (now THATS customer service) , They have a 37" Panasonic Plasma for $100 more than I paid for the XBR ,Ive never owned a plasma and when searching through the appropriate Forum im not finding many negatives with them either ,other than Burn in which appears easy to avoid.


This Panasonic model has 2 hdmi / 2 component / svideo / composite / ATSC QAM tuner 10,000:1 dynamic contrast ratio (4,000:1 GTG) . What do you guys think, Will I be even more disappointed by going this route?


----------



## christophersj

Hi Mathesar,


I am a professional documentary editor who works with pro broadcast monitors on a daily basis. So I can say without a doubt that there is indeed some black-crush going on with this set. That being said though, everything else is so good. My understanding is that the black-crush can relieved through the hidden Service Menu without increasing overall brightness. Have you tried that yet? There is a long thread in this forum telling you how.


I have not tried yet because I have been too busy, but black-crush and RGB convergence errors (where a white line or text can have a red or blue halo) can be fixed in the Service Menu if I understand correctly.


But all of this discussion of flaws is within the context of "the best" set I have ever seen outside of a broadcast studio.


I would keep it. There is too much good and tight detail in this tube to turn away from it. I am going to use it for a home HD editing system for documentaries. I am sure the plasma looks very nice and "punchy".


-Christopher


----------



## DJF(NJ)




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> He's right! Nothing beats plasma for putting fat commission checks in salespeople's wallets
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a serious note, you shouldn't be able to see the 3 wires (even on light scenes), at a normal viewing distance (>5'). What mode and brightess level are you using?



Using pro mode on games, brightness is at 54. On DVDs, usually switch between movie and pro modes with brightness at 45.


Have a few months on the warranty left. Maybe I should have it checked out?!?


Thanks


----------



## christophersj

Wow! 54 is extremely bright. Using Pro Picture Mode I have


DVDs at Picture 47 & Brightness 24

OTA broadcasts at Picture 46 and Brightness 40


Even counting on model to model inconsistencies, thats a big difference from your "54" number. My guess is that you are trying to bring hidden detail out of those overly inky blacks. Am I right? I don't blame you. The problem is that I bet your highlights are getting washed out when you go that high with Brightness. Don't you think?


Try to either put some money aside for an ISF calibrator guy or start reading the Sony Service Menu thread here at AVS. I think it is possible to bring out detail in the blacks WITHOUT washing out the mids and highs. Personally, I'm going to dive into the Sony Service Menu thread here next week.


-Christopher Johnson


----------



## brucemoto

In regards to that post concerning Fry's Electronics, I would like to say that the one in San Jose really sucks.... The first TV that was delivered was defective (completely missing all the ports on the front panel). The second TV was a total disaster. Though the audio/video manager promised that a new set was being sent, a demo was actually delivered (it had no box, and a lousy sticker in the upper right-hand corner. Plus, there was a sticker on the back of the remote, and no instructions whatsoever). The worst part was that the tuner wouldn't even pick up any cable channels. He initially tried to convince me it was "brand new" -- pure stupidity. I ended up returning both sets (there are no new ones remaining, plus last week's sale is over, so I'm still looking...)


BruceG


----------



## biffmalibu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *big_lou* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just had the chance to compare a 34XBR960, 34XBR960N, and 34XS955N side by side in a store. The last two (N models) exhibited significantly higher (brighter) glare off the screen whereas the non-N model exhibited lower (duller) glare. This seems consistent with the discussions I have found in this forum.
> 
> 
> Since they were out of the non-N model, is there a way (i.e. video settings?) to compensate for the excessive glare from the "N" models, other than turning off all the lights in the room? TIA for any replies.
> 
> 
> Lou



I maybe wrong, but I've always believed that the "N" model was the one that had the Anti-Glare treatment. I just purchased a _*non*_ "N" model yesterday and after close examination, I don't see any sign of an Anti-Glare coating on the glass. I've never seen an "N" model so I can't compare the two.

Anybody out there with an "N" model care to comment about the coating being obviously visible,, or not,, on the glass??


Also, I saw this line about the "N" model at Park Avenue Electronics' website:

Quote:
_Description:

NEW "N" MODEL HAS AN ANTI REFLECTIVE PROTECTOR. The cutting edge just got sharper with Sony's new KD-34XBR960 34" Super Fine PitchT XBR Television._

I am also curious if anybody knows if this ANTI REFLECTIVE treatment is a coating that is bonded to the glass,,, or is it a film overlay type of material??

And would it be something that a Sony tech. could apply to a set that didn't come with it from the factory??


Thanks In Advance,


I'm looking forward to hearing from others regarding this ANTI REFLECTIVE issue.

/

/


----------



## vivid_vibe

Hey guys,


I am new to the forums and was wondering how best to invest my hard-earned money. I am in the market for a HD CRT and these two seem to be the cream of the crop. Sony has discontinued the 960 from their website but it is still available elsewhere. They still carry the 955 for now. What are the differences between the two? I am somewhat a noob to the world of Hi-Def, but don't be afraid to use technical terms. I will greatly appreciate any help!


vivid


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *christophersj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wow! 54 is extremely bright. Using Pro Picture Mode I have
> 
> 
> DVDs at Picture 47 & Brightness 24
> 
> OTA broadcasts at Picture 46 and Brightness 40
> 
> 
> Even counting on model to model inconsistencies, thats a big difference from your "54" number. My guess is that you are trying to bring hidden detail out of those overly inky blacks. Am I right? I don't blame you. The problem is that I bet your highlights are getting washed out when you go that high with Brightness. Don't you think?
> 
> 
> Try to either put some money aside for an ISF calibrator guy or start reading the Sony Service Menu thread here at AVS. I think it is possible to bring out detail in the blacks WITHOUT washing out the mids and highs. Personally, I'm going to dive into the Sony Service Menu thread here next week.
> 
> 
> -Christopher Johnson



Yep Ive been into the service menu to adjust black crush although Ive only tried a couple settings, there are so many settings associated with black levels im sure theres a way to fix this,I havent given up all hope yet and I have a few more days to decide, I think one of my mistakes is making these adjustments with the in-game brightness adjusted higher than default ..then when I goto play a game that doesnt have its own brightness adjustments im left with black crush.


I've also noticed 1080i/720P HD ATSC / Cable channels suffer from this black crush pretty badly yet standard 480i channels look fine, Im just suprised Sony would release this tv with such a problem ..the average user certainly wouldnt venture into the service menu.


Thanks for the reply.


----------



## nraval

I have the "N" model, and I still get reflections on the screen!




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *biffmalibu* /forum/post/0
> 
> I maybe wrong, but I've always believed that the "N" model was the one that had the Anti-Glare treatment. I just purchased a _*non*_ "N" model yesterday and after close examination, I don't see any sign of an Anti-Glare coating on the glass. I've never seen an "N" model so I can't compare the two.
> 
> Anybody out there with an "N" model care to comment about the coating being obviously visible,, or not,, on the glass??
> 
> 
> Also, I saw this line about the "N" model at Park Avenue Electronics' website:
> 
> Quote:
> _Description:
> 
> NEW "N" MODEL HAS AN ANTI REFLECTIVE PROTECTOR. The cutting edge just got sharper with Sony's new KD-34XBR960 34" Super Fine PitchT XBR Television._
> 
> I am also curious if anybody knows if this ANTI REFLECTIVE treatment is a coating that is bonded to the glass,,, or is it a film overlay type of material??
> 
> And would it be something that a Sony tech. could apply to a set that didn't come with it from the factory??
> 
> 
> Thanks In Advance,
> 
> 
> I'm looking forward to hearing from others regarding this ANTI REFLECTIVE issue.
> 
> /
> 
> /


----------



## christophersj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yep Ive been into the service menu to adjust black crush although Ive only tried a couple settings, there are so many settings associated with black levels im sure theres a way to fix this,I havent given up all hope yet and I have a few more days to decide, I think one of my mistakes is making these adjustments with the in-game brightness adjusted higher than default ..then when I goto play a game that doesnt have its own brightness adjustments im left with black crush.
> 
> 
> I've also noticed 1080i/720P HD ATSC / Cable channels suffer from this black crush pretty badly yet standard 480i channels look fine, Im just suprised Sony would release this tv with such a problem ..the average user certainly wouldnt venture into the service menu.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply.



I dont think it was a mistake. I think that it is a purposeful look for Sony. Although it is overboard for my taste, the somewhat crushed blacks can increase perceived depth and contrast and reduce noise on the darker areas. Its on purpose, I'm sure.


Still, I think this set has the potential to reproduce blacks better than an LCD panel or projector.


-Christopher Johnson


----------



## DJF(NJ)




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *christophersj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wow! 54 is extremely bright. Using Pro Picture Mode I have
> 
> 
> DVDs at Picture 47 & Brightness 24
> 
> OTA broadcasts at Picture 46 and Brightness 40
> 
> 
> Even counting on model to model inconsistencies, thats a big difference from your "54" number. My guess is that you are trying to bring hidden detail out of those overly inky blacks. Am I right? I don't blame you. The problem is that I bet your highlights are getting washed out when you go that high with Brightness. Don't you think?
> 
> 
> Try to either put some money aside for an ISF calibrator guy or start reading the Sony Service Menu thread here at AVS. I think it is possible to bring out detail in the blacks WITHOUT washing out the mids and highs. Personally, I'm going to dive into the Sony Service Menu thread here next week.
> 
> 
> -Christopher Johnson



Christopher---yes, I'm trying to bring out some of the hidden detail. I just joined and Im gonna start digging into this whole thread as well as take a look at the Sony Service menu thread. I'd also like to put aside money for an ISF calibrator. Last I heard, they were a few hundred dollars, I think? But I'm sure it's worth it. I bought one of those 20 dollar tune-up DVDs and it was a total waste.

Thanks for the suggestions!


----------



## mr2828




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *christophersj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I dont think it was a mistake. I think that it is a purposeful look for Sony. Although it is overboard for my taste, the somewhat crushed blacks can increase perceived depth and contrast and reduce noise on the darker areas. Its on purpose, I'm sure.
> 
> 
> Still, I think this set has the potential to reproduce blacks better than an LCD panel or projector.
> 
> 
> -Christopher Johnson



From my understanding, the SD NTSC standard uses a brighter level of blacks doesn't it? In other words, they really aren't totally black. I think on some DVD players you can adjust this - the IRE level? - to make it blacker.


But with the HD standard, this is not the case, so the blacks can really be totally black, and many shows are filmed or shot to really make stuff black.


----------



## williamtassone

Whats this? Mathesar defecting to the plasma camp?? Someone spiked his drink???


----------



## gigaguy

DJF,

I got my 960 in July 05. Took me a month or so of tweaking to get SD to look better, basically I turned everything down as far as I could esp Sharpness. this improved SD for me.


For 960 shoppers - Sony has added the 960 to their online outlet store but it has no price listed, only says Limited Quantities.


----------



## biffmalibu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gigaguy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> DJF,
> 
> I got my 960 in July 05. Took me a month or so of tweaking to get SD to look better, basically I turned everything down as far as I could esp Sharpness. this improved SD for me.
> 
> 
> For 960 shoppers - Sony has added the 960 to their online outlet store but it has no price listed, only says Limited Quantities.




gigaguy,


Can you be more specific about the online outlet store??

I just looked at sonystyle and didn't see the 960.


THX


----------



## DJF(NJ)




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gigaguy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> DJF,
> 
> I got my 960 in July 05. Took me a month or so of tweaking to get SD to look better, basically I turned everything down as far as I could esp Sharpness. this improved SD for me.
> 
> 
> For 960 shoppers - Sony has added the 960 to their online outlet store but it has no price listed, only says Limited Quantities.



Thanks giga, will give that a try for SD.


----------



## greenland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *biffmalibu* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> gigaguy,
> 
> 
> Can you be more specific about the online outlet store??
> 
> I just looked at sonystyle and didn't see the 960.
> 
> 
> THX



I think he is referring to the Outlet Store link on the right hand side of the Sonystyle home page. That takes you to the special discount items. Most, including the 34XBR960, items are marked as refurbished. You will have to call for a price, shipping costs, and warranty details etc. You might be better off to see if there is a Sony Outlet site, that has refurbished sets, near you. Hope this helps.


----------



## gigaguy

On sonystyle.com click on TV, drop down list, last item is Outlet.


I live near a Sony Outlet retail store too. they had 960s (and 955s) for a steal (xxx.xx) about a month ago. If I had the room I would have grabbed one.


----------



## big_lou

Someone else in this forum expalined that the *non-N* models have an antiglare *"filter"* as part of the tube glass and that the *N models* , instead, have an antiglare *"sheet"* applied either to the tube glass or to the material protecting the tube glass.


Either way the N models do exhibit *much brighter* reflections off the screen than the non-N models, in a well lit room, and this was also confirmed by the same article where a Sony rep. pointed out this was one of the con's on the N models.


Searching for "glare" will get you posts with more details.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *biffmalibu* /forum/post/0
> 
> I maybe wrong, but I've always believed that the "N" model was the one that had the Anti-Glare treatment. I just purchased a _*non*_ "N" model yesterday and after close examination, I don't see any sign of an Anti-Glare coating on the glass. I've never seen an "N" model so I can't compare the two.
> 
> Anybody out there with an "N" model care to comment about the coating being obviously visible,, or not,, on the glass??
> 
> 
> Also, I saw this line about the "N" model at Park Avenue Electronics' website:
> 
> Quote:
> _Description:
> 
> NEW "N" MODEL HAS AN ANTI REFLECTIVE PROTECTOR. The cutting edge just got sharper with Sony's new KD-34XBR960 34" Super Fine PitchT XBR Television._
> 
> I am also curious if anybody knows if this ANTI REFLECTIVE treatment is a coating that is bonded to the glass,,, or is it a film overlay type of material??
> 
> And would it be something that a Sony tech. could apply to a set that didn't come with it from the factory??
> 
> 
> Thanks In Advance,
> 
> 
> I'm looking forward to hearing from others regarding this ANTI REFLECTIVE issue.
> 
> /
> 
> /


----------



## archon333

960 anti-glare plastic sheet on surface of tube. 960N no anti-glare sheet.


----------



## dicey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vivid_vibe* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> 
> I am new to the forums and was wondering how best to invest my hard-earned money. I am in the market for a HD CRT and these two seem to be the cream of the crop. Sony has discontinued the 960 from their website but it is still available elsewhere. They still carry the 955 for now. What are the differences between the two? I am somewhat a noob to the world of Hi-Def, but don't be afraid to use technical terms. I will greatly appreciate any help!
> 
> 
> vivid



Hey, vivid


I'm new to this forum too but have been reading it for years. I am also the proud owner of a XBR960 and have spent a long time tweaking it. You're right about the 955 and the 960 being the best in CRT Land and these sets have identical PQ. The only differences are a few bells and whistles. The new 970 is also a contender. It doesn't have the Super Fine Pitch (SFP) shadow mask that the 955 and 960 has but this feature is a bit of a double edged sword. While the SFP mask reduces the pitch of each "pixel", thereby increasing the visable resolution, there is a significant reduction (@-25%) in peak white level (contrast) compared to the 970. If you're going to be sitting more than 8 feet away from the set, I would recommend the 970, because as you step further back, the advantage of the SFP mask becomes smaller and smaller. Also, the 970 has a much lower retail than the 955 and 960. The only knock I can give the 970 is that uses the same chassis as the 955 and the 420







series which, IMO, isn't as purdy as the 910 and 960 series. But thats about it. Just make sure to change the Color Axis setting from Default to Monitor. Doing this will give the the set near perfect RGB color points. Hope this helps.


----------



## dicey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *archon333* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 960 anti-glare plastic sheet on surface of tube. 960N no anti-glare sheet.



Just to clarify a little. The 960 has an anti-glare _coating_ on the front of the tube and the 960N does not. In a dark room, there will be no difference between these sets.


----------



## cornell_lingus

I am very happy with the picture. I think I have the settings tweaked to my pleasure. I have a lot of jealous friends and family.


----------



## vivid_vibe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dicey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey, vivid
> 
> 
> I'm new to this forum too but have been reading it for years. I am also the proud owner of a XBR960 and have spent a long time tweaking it. You're right about the 955 and the 960 being the best in CRT Land and these sets have identical PQ. The only differences are a few bells and whistles. The new 970 is also a contender. It doesn't have the Super Fine Pitch (SFP) shadow mask that the 955 and 960 has but this feature is a bit of a double edged sword. While the SFP mask reduces the pitch of each "pixel", thereby increasing the visable resolution, there is a significant reduction (@-25%) in peak white level (contrast) compared to the 970. If you're going to be sitting more than 8 feet away from the set, I would recommend the 970, because as you step further back, the advantage of the SFP mask becomes smaller and smaller. Also, the 970 has a much lower retail than the 955 and 960. The only knock I can give the 970 is that uses the same chassis as the 955 and the 420
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> series which, IMO, isn't as purdy as the 910 and 960 series. But thats about it. Just make sure to change the Color Axis setting from Default to Monitor. Doing this will give the the set near perfect RGB color points. Hope this helps.



Dicey, thank you so much for the reply. I will be sitting relatively close to the screen (less than 6 ft. usually) so I will probably be wanting the SFP. I will probably go with the 955 since SonyStyle still stocks it. Nice tip on the Color Axis setting. Thanks again.


Vivid


----------



## S. Hiller




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vivid_vibe* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Dicey, thank you so much for the reply. I will be sitting relatively close to the screen (less than 6 ft. usually) so I will probably be wanting the SFP. I will probably go with the 955 since SonyStyle still stocks it. Nice tip on the Color Axis setting. Thanks again.
> 
> 
> Vivid



I wouldn't give up on the idea of still being able to find an XBR960 at an amazing close out price point. (Worth a try anyway...)


(Referring to local retail, not the Internet.)


----------



## tivotony

This is the first I've heard of the 970. Is this an upgrade over the 960, as the number sequence would indicate? If so, what new features are included?


----------



## S. Hiller

No -- 970 is a downgrade, but cheaper.


Super Fine Pitch tube is replaced with a low resolution tube to reach a more competitive price point.


----------



## alspicer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *S. Hiller* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I wouldn't give up on the idea of still being able to find an XBR960 at an amazing close out price point. (Worth a try anyway...)
> 
> 
> (Referring to local retail, not the Internet.)



There are some still out there. I finally joined the club of XBR960 owners after looking for a long while at every thing. It seems to be the perfect size and best tv from 6 - 7 feet away. After working every day for over 2 weeks, I finally got back in to local Best Buys. I was afraid I would be too late. I bought a 34XBR960N open box for 1700 in Greensboro, plus got a $200 gift certificate to use in the store. They had it hooked up to a good source, and the picture was superb. I figured it couldn't have had much use, being an N. Earlier, when they first went on clearance, there were 2 960s in this store in boxes. One was an N then. This unit wasn't on display then. They have one other unit on display as open box, for the same deal (not N). There is also a boxed 960 (not N) high on a back shelf. I noticed it 3 weeks ago also. There is a paper attached to it. I don't know if it is for sale.


Their computer said there were none left in Winston-Salem. I went there any way. I had been looking at one that had been a display unit back around Christmas. It got knocked off the shelf and took cosmetic damage. The case is cracked on the front bottom left, and the speaker cover has a tear. They have had it hooked up to a good source. I had been checking on it several times. The picture is always great. If they marked it down good, I might be interested. The last time I was in, they were trying to sale it for 1700 plus a 800 gift certificate. Today, they still had it, and had marked it down to 900 plus a 200 gift certificate. I jumped on that one too, for a second unit in the bedroom. Now, I have 400 in certificates to shop for TV stands and cables. It will be next week before either one is delivered. There was also another open box, undamaged, in Winston-Salem.


I wanted to share my research on web sites that were still selling the 34XBR960 and 960N as of 3 weeks ago. I was afraid to try them, since they are not Sony Authorized, and alot of them are from the famed Brooklyn area. Does any body have any good or bad experiences with any of these web sites?



Edited by moderator. I know your trying to be helpful but please keep street price off the forum. MSRP only. Thank you.


----------



## archon333




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dicey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just to clarify a little. The 960 has an anti-glare _coating_ on the front of the tube and the 960N does not. In a dark room, there will be no difference between these sets.




It is in fact a plastic sheet that is bonded to the front surface of the 960 (without the N) the "coating " is in fact a sheet of plastic. The procedure for peeling off this anti-glare filter is explained in an eairler post in this thread.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alspicer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There are some still out there. I finally joined the club of XBR960 owners after looking for a long while at every thing. It seems to be the perfect size and best tv from 6 - 7 feet away. After working every day for over 2 weeks, I finally got back in to local Best Buys. I was afraid I would be too late. I bought a 34XBR960N open box for 1700 in Greensboro, plus got a $200 gift certificate to use in the store. They had it hooked up to a good source, and the picture was superb. I figured it couldn't have had much use, being an N. Earlier, when they first went on clearance, there were 2 960s in this store in boxes. One was an N then. This unit wasn't on display then. They have one other unit on display as open box, for the same deal (not N). There is also a boxed 960 (not N) high on a back shelf. I noticed it 3 weeks ago also. There is a paper attached to it. I don't know if it is for sale.
> 
> 
> Their computer said there were none left in Winston-Salem. I went there any way. I had been looking at one that had been a display unit back around Christmas. It got knocked off the shelf and took cosmetic damage. The case is cracked on the front bottom left, and the speaker cover has a tear. They have had it hooked up to a good source. I had been checking on it several times. The picture is always great. If they marked it down good, I might be interested. The last time I was in, they were trying to sale it for 1700 plus a 800 gift certificate. Today, they still had it, and had marked it down to 900 plus a 200 gift certificate. I jumped on that one too, for a second unit in the bedroom. Now, I have 400 in certificates to shop for TV stands and cables. It will be next week before either one is delivered. There was also another open box, undamaged, in Winston-Salem.
> 
> 
> I wanted to share my research on web sites that were still selling the 34XBR960 and 960N as of 3 weeks ago. I was afraid to try them, since they are not Sony Authorized, and alot of them are from the famed Brooklyn area. Does any body have any good or bad experiences with any of these web sites?
> 
> 
> TVCity.TV 1465
> 
> allhometheater.net 1695
> 
> surroundcity 1675
> 
> electronicebuys 1465
> 
> store.epayright 1608
> 
> brand-electronics 1689
> 
> ***************** 1495
> 
> everything4electronics 1465
> 
> sensibleaudio 1415
> 
> sourceoneaudio 1249
> 
> wholesaleconnection 1500
> 
> gbshopping 1549
> 
> 1597
> 
> savinglots 1825
> 
> parkaveelectronics 1441
> 
> ezhotdeal 1627
> 
> hotbuyselectronics 1633
> 
> audioexcellenceinc 1898
> 
> bigdealtv 1465
> 
> click4tvs 1395



Check the back of the set for the month and year it was manufactured. While the "N" series began production in early Fall don't despair if you find it as much as six months old since from what you describe it could not have been on display for so long.


You think it looked great in the store - just wait till you watch it at home! Good luck with both your new sets.


----------



## nraval

I have connected my Sony DVP-NS70H HDMI output to my 960N's HDMI input. Within the DVD setup menu, I have a choice of outputting either RGB or YCbCr over the HDMI interface.


The DVD manual isn't too helpful with what each option does.


Which output do you guys recommend?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nraval* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> YCbCr



Use that.


----------



## POWERFUL

Save HDMI for Blu-ray or HD-DVD, or a HD DVR.


----------



## DJF(NJ)

I agree. I have a Denon 2910 DVD player and the only difference I get in PQ when using the HDMI cable with 1080i upconversion is excessive video noise. Needless to say I keep it in 480p with component cables.


----------



## bforsse




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GamerGuyX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Light guns do not work with HDTV's. The only one that I have seen that does was specifically made to work with HDTV's and is a piece of junk.



I ended up buying the ereal games G1 light gun to check it out. It comes with an eyeball sensor. On top of being large, ugly, and unwieldy because it requires 2 hands, this gun WILL NOT work well with your xbr960.


Once the gun is calibrated, if you move the it slightly towards or away from the tv at all the calibration fails, I'm talking inches! If you move it too far to the left, right, top, or bottom of the screen (maybe a foot from where it was calibrated) the calibration fails. When testing the calibration via the video game calibration screen the crosshair is visibly shaky, noticeable worse than the stock NAMCO guns on an old SD monitor.


My guess, being that there was so much hype about it being the first HDTV gun ever, is that the G1 was pushed to market as quickly and cheaply as possible with the buzz words "HDTV" and "Wireless".


I immediately returned both guns without even opening the 2nd one.


I've since then heard of another one that has sensors on the left and right of the screen. Has anybody had any success with any other HDTV light guns on their 960?


----------



## Aztecian

I have followed this thread with great interest and had decided that a CRT was what I wanted. Today I got a chance to go to the big city and actually compare the 970 to other LCDs, Plasmas and rear projection. I was extremely dissapointed. I even asked the sales person if maybe the 970 was not recieving the HD signal. It was! PQ is not a lot better than the 32" 5 year old Wega that I have now. Maybe the 960 was all that but the 970 certainly is not. The Sony SXRD 42" rear projection blew it away. It is entirely possible that something was indeed amiss with the way they had the 970 set up.

I definitely ruled it out of my hunt.


----------



## Hammerli

Almost assuredly there was a problem with their set-up in some way. A 970 with a HD signal will look much better than an old SD Wega, and IMO no worse than any of the other formats you mentioned. Now if you are comparing SD, it's probably a toss up with your Wega. My old 27" FV Wega looked pretty good with SD, but that's due in part to the size. If you look at a .4" by .6" thumbnail of a digital picture it looks pretty good. If you take those same pixels and view them at 4" by 6" it'll look like cr*p. I've yet to see any HD set that can make SD look as good as my 32" XBR did.


If you really want to get a true idea of the PQ, and the sales staff is willing, have them hook up a known good tap and then use some of the video settings from Sony owners threads for the similar models. I've found that customers (and staff) usually have display models set to "blinding", "washed out" and "red push".


That said, I love my 960 and I believe the PQ is superior to my Mother's Sony 42" plasma and the 50" SXRD she just bought, although I will admit to some desire to buy a 60" SXRD just for movies.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Aztecian* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have followed this thread with great interest and had decided that a CRT was what I wanted. Today I got a chance to go to the big city and actually compare the 970 to other LCDs, Plasmas and rear projection. I was extremely dissapointed. I even asked the sales person if maybe the 970 was not recieving the HD signal. It was! PQ is not a lot better than the 32" 5 year old Wega that I have now. Maybe the 960 was all that but the 970 certainly is not. The Sony SXRD 42" rear projection blew it away. It is entirely possible that something was indeed amiss with the way they had the 970 set up.
> 
> I definitely ruled it out of my hunt.


----------



## vivid_vibe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vivid_vibe* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Dicey, thank you so much for the reply. I will be sitting relatively close to the screen (less than 6 ft. usually) so I will probably be wanting the SFP. I will probably go with the 955 since SonyStyle still stocks it. Nice tip on the Color Axis setting. Thanks again.
> 
> 
> Vivid



Update: Got a chance to purchase a 960 and went for it. I'll let you guys know when it arrives. I'm really excited!!!


vivid


----------



## johnny_business

I am new to this forum and thread. I have searched to see if the problem I am having is here, but I am not finding it. I am now on my second xbr960N that I purchased at Ultimate Electronics at the beginning of April. Both sets have had the same problem. One was manufactured in December. Its replacement was manufactured in February. Both sets are exhibiting the same problem, which makes me wonder if it is something with my setup. After warmup, the picture tube will either flash white or turn off (I can hear the picture tube making a noise when this happens) for a split second and then go back to normal for anywhere from 5-30 minutes before it flashes/cuts out again. It keeps doing the flashing/cutting out until the set is turned off. The second set seems to do the flashing/cutting out more frequently than the first. I have the Motorola HD cable box attached to Video 5 and a Denon 1920 attached to Video 7, and both of these inputs have the same problem with flashing. I have the XBR3 stand on a carpeted floor about 3 feet away from some planar speakers with large magnets. I already talked with Sony and have done the reset and tried plugging the set directly into the wall and through a surge protector and an isolation transformer. Anyone have any idea what might be going on?


----------



## doretta




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *archon333* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It is in fact a plastic sheet that is bonded to the front surface of the 960 (without the N) the "coating " is in fact a sheet of plastic. The procedure for peeling off this anti-glare filter is explained in an eairler post in this thread.



Well, we've seen about every possible combination of information and misinformation in response to that question. My take from both experience and the most credible posts here:


Both sets have antiglare features.


960: plastic sheet bonded to the front surface of the glass

960N: a chemical coating applied to the glass


The 960 plastic sheet approach does a somewhat better job cutting down glare.


The 960N approach is less prone to manufacturing issues and *may* be less susceptible to damage by cleaning products.


Abrasives will for sure damage either one and chemical cleaners might also, depending on what they are. A soft cloth and water is the recommended cleaning agent for both.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *doretta* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, we've seen about every possible combination of information and misinformation in response to that question. My take from both experience and the most credible posts here:
> 
> 
> Both sets have antiglare features.
> 
> 
> 960: plastic sheet bonded to the front surface of the glass
> 
> 960N: a chemical coating applied to the glass
> 
> 
> The 960 plastic sheet approach does a somewhat better job cutting down glare.
> 
> 
> The 960N approach is less prone to manufacturing issues and *may* be less susceptible to damage by cleaning products.
> 
> 
> Abrasives will for sure damage either one and chemical cleaners might also, depending on what they are. A soft cloth and water is the recommended cleaning agent for both.




That's about all there is to it.


----------



## vance87




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Considering what we have already seen with mp3s and the like, I wouldn't say they are crazy paranoid. They are being financially responsible, imho.
> 
> 
> Do I like it?
> 
> 
> No.
> 
> 
> It is those that abused the system for the past 10+ years now making us all pay the price of this aggrevation.



I wouldn't call it financially responsible. I believe it's nothing more than greed. Between hollywood and the music industry, the profits and insatiable greed know no bounds. I'll believe video or music pirating is responsible when either of these industries stop posting record profits like they have over the last 30 yrs.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vance87* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I wouldn't call it financially responsible. I believe it's nothing more than greed. Between hollywood and the music industry, the profits and insatiable greed know no bounds. I'll believe video or music pirating is responsible when either of these industries stop posting record profits like they have over the last 30 yrs.




If you think they have record profits, you haven't paid close attention over the last few years.


I believe thats what is called free enterprise and what seperates use from a Socialist or Communist Society.


But, I do understand you misguided statements. It's the attitude that will make us pay with DRM and non-working forced upgrades in the future.


Thanks alot.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you think they have record profits, you haven't paid close attention over the last few years.
> 
> 
> I believe thats what is called free enterprise and what seperates use from a Socialist or Communist Society.
> 
> 
> But, I do understand you misguided statements. It's the attitude that will make us pay with DRM and non-working forced upgrades in the future.
> 
> 
> Thanks alot.



Agreed 100 percent.


----------



## krob111

I just noticed a blueish/purple tint in the lower left corner of my XBR960 screen. I have had the set for almost 2 years, and generally have the pic mode set on Pro. Has anyone else seen this? Better yet, is it symptomatic of a bigger problem? Tube on its way out already? I really hope not after not even 2 years and the $2000 price tag. Thanks in advance for any input.


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Aztecian* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have followed this thread with great interest and had decided that a CRT was what I wanted. Today I got a chance to go to the big city and actually compare the 970 to other LCDs, Plasmas and rear projection. I was extremely dissapointed. I even asked the sales person if maybe the 970 was not recieving the HD signal. It was! PQ is not a lot better than the 32" 5 year old Wega that I have now. Maybe the 960 was all that but the 970 certainly is not. The Sony SXRD 42" rear projection blew it away. It is entirely possible that something was indeed amiss with the way they had the 970 set up.
> 
> I definitely ruled it out of my hunt.



A 970 that is truly receiving an HD signal, of an HD show that is set-up somewhere near anything reasonable will not disappoint.


You may have prematurely ruled-out a very nice value.


BTW, Sony doesn't even make a 42" SXRD set.


----------



## S. Hiller




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *justsc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A 970 that is truly receiving an HD signal, of an HD show that is set-up somewhere near anything reasonable will not disappoint.
> 
> 
> You may have prematurely ruled-out a very nice value.
> 
> 
> BTW, Sony doesn't even make a 42" SXRD set.



Yes, but it would be disappointing to settle for a 970 if one can still find a 960 out there for a similar price on close out. (I'm not saying that one still can though...I don't know...)


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *S. Hiller* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, but it would be disappointing to settle for a 970 if one can still find a 960 out there for a similar price on close out. (I'm not saying that one still can though...I don't know...)



No argument from me. I agree wholeheartedly. I just think that the poster to whom I was responding may not have seen the 970 in an optimal set-up.


----------



## vance87

Misguided HDTVFanatic? Somehow I'm not surprised by that response. And not to get away from the theme of this thread, but why would you assume that these two industries haven't been making record profits. Not that I owe anyone "insider" information, but maybe I'm privy to some info that bears my point out.


These industries have yet to prove with any tangible evidence that folks choosing to file swap or record video or audio for personal use has adversely affected sales. I haven't seen it, nor have any of my contacts who work in these industries provided such proof.


Control over what we view, listen to and buy in the name of profit seems to be the consistant reality that anyone with their eye on the ball can see. Misguided? No, just acutely aware of greed and *arrogance* when I see it


----------



## vance87

By the way, as the owner of a 960n myself, I find the info in this thread by many to be rather informative.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vance87* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Misguided HDTVFanatic? Somehow I'm not surprised by that response. And not to get away from the theme of this thread, but why would you assume that these two industries haven't been making record profits. Not that I owe anyone "insider" information, but maybe I'm privy to some info that bears my point out.
> 
> 
> These industries have yet to prove with any tangible evidence that folks choosing to file swap or record video or audio for personal use has adversely affected sales. I haven't seen it, nor have any of my contacts who work in these industries provided such proof.
> 
> 
> Control over what we view, listen to and buy in the name of profit seems to be the consistant reality that anyone with their eye on the ball can see. Misguided? No, just acutely aware of greed and *arrogance* when I see it



Agree with you, Vance. Corporations want to achieve maximum profit (which is the norm for free enterprise) and this is not limited to the entertainment industry. While record profit can be achieved through ethical business standards, so often costs become higher when demand is high (notice the price of gas lately?) or through cutting costs on product control.


----------



## Aztecian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *justsc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A 970 that is truly receiving an HD signal, of an HD show that is set-up somewhere near anything reasonable will not disappoint.
> 
> 
> You may have prematurely ruled-out a very nice value.
> 
> 
> BTW, Sony doesn't even make a 42" SXRD set.



Yes I made two mistakes. One I posted here when I should have posted in the official 970 thread and I have since corrected in the other thread that it was the non SXRD 3LCD 42" projection Sony. Right now I cannot remember the whole model number Kxx-42A10 ? The 970 still didn't compare favorably. Maybe it was in the setup? Maybe a signal issue? Or maybe I just got sucked in by the sharpness of the LCD.

I have since re-evaluated my needs and since my viewing distance is close to 13' we'll be looking for the biggest we can budget for.

Plasma, LCD, DLP, LCos, rear projection, 720p, 1080p, 1080I, HDTV, EDTV, motion smear, rainbows, ugly in SD, burn in, contrast ratios, update times, HDMI, IEEExxx, QAM, cable ready, cable card slot.









Too much to swallow in just a few days. I'll eventually figure it all out.


----------



## synyster

I THINK MY XBR960 JUST TOOK A CRAP





















Ok so I got this TV brand new at Best Buy in the middle of Feb. The manufacturing date on the back said July 2005. Everything was going great until a couple of days ago when I encountered the "not powering on while plugged into a surge protector" issue. I simply plugged it directly into the wall and it came back on. Then I plugged it back into the surge protector and and everything was great....until this morning. I was playing on my PS2, then all of a sudden my whole screen got very blurry. At first I thought my PS2 component cables went bad, but when I started viewing regular TV the PQ was blurry as well...not to mention a strange red tint. Also when I click on 'display' the time and imput numbers are no longer solid while...now it has a red/green/bluish look to it. Also when I go to an imput channel thats not in use...instead of the screen being all black...there is a red tint with some faint red diagonal lines. Thank goodness for the extended warrenty. I just hope they have some left to replace mine with.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *synyster* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I THINK MY XBR960 JUST TOOK A CRAP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok so I got this TV brand new at Best Buy in the middle of Feb. The manufacturing date on the back said July 2005. Everything was going great until a couple of days ago when I encountered the "not powering on while plugged into a surge protector" issue. I simply plugged it directly into the wall and it came back on. Then I plugged it back into the surge protector and and everything was great....until this morning. I was playing on my PS2, then all of a sudden my whole screen got very blurry. At first I thought my PS2 component cables went bad, but when I started viewing regular TV the PQ was blurry as well...not to mention a strange red tint. Also when I click on 'display' the time and imput numbers are no longer solid while...now it has a red/green/bluish look to it. Also when I go to an imput channel thats not in use...instead of the screen being all black...there is a red tint with some faint red diagonal lines. Thank goodness for the extended warrenty. I just hope they have some left to replace mine with.



Synster,


Sorry to hear about the trouble with your 960. If you haven't already tried, unplug the set once again, wait five minutes and plug it back into the wall (not the surge protector). I was advised by Sony Service that full electrical consumption is required when the set powers up for proper re-gausing. Hopefully, this might resolve the problem for you.


- Joe


----------



## synyster




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Synster,
> 
> 
> Sorry to hear about the trouble with your 960. If you haven't already tried, unplug the set once again, wait five minutes and plug it back into the wall (not the surge protector). I was advised by Sony Service that full electrical consumption is required when the set powers up for proper re-gausing. Hopefully, this might resolve the problem for you.
> 
> 
> - Joe



Thanks for the info. Is this a common problem? I did unplug it for like 30 seconds, but not 5 minutes so I will try that when I get back home.


----------



## RJRSW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jason One* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So, have any fellow 960 owners tried out the new Toshiba HD DVD player yet? I'm dying to know how high-def discs look on the 960.



I read another post on the HD DVD forum and they said there that if the display size is less than 50" it is almost impossible to see any real improvement over standard DVD's on a good quality player. They seem to think it is kind of a waste because the display quality difference is just not worth the expense.


----------



## Brad Smith




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RJRSW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I read another post on the HD DVD forum and they said there that if the display size is less than 50" it is almost impossible to see any real improvement over standard DVD's on a good quality player. They seem to think it is kind of a waste because the display quality difference is just not worth the expense.



I doubt that, actually. I can tell a noticeable difference between standard DVDs on a good upscaling DVD player vs. broadcast HD of the same movie on my XBR960.


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Smith* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I doubt that, actually. I can tell a noticeable difference between standard DVDs on a good upscaling DVD player vs. broadcast HD of the same movie on my XBR960.



I've got the 34HS420, the model without the SFP tube, and I can easily tell the difference between a DVD on a standard PS 480p player and my Oppo Upscaling DVD Player. I am certain we'll be able to enjoy and appreciate the picture quality of the HD players.


----------



## Brad Smith

I have a friend who has the XS version of the display (don't remember the full product number, but it's the same tube that's in the XBR960). He has an HD-DVD player. I'm going over tomorrow evening to see what it's like. I'll report back.


----------



## lzzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Smith* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a friend who has the XS version of the display (don't remember the full product number, but it's the same tube that's in the XBR960). He has an HD-DVD player. I'm going over tomorrow evening to see what it's like. I'll report back.



Can't wait to hear about it!!!


----------



## RJRSW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jason One* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So, have any fellow 960 owners tried out the new Toshiba HD DVD player yet? I'm dying to know how high-def discs look on the 960.



I saw this on ZDNet site on the Toshiba and the 960


"The resulting image was jaw-dropping, even on a modestly sized Sony 32-inch LCD flat-panel and a 42-inch Panasonic plasma. Of course, we also auditioned the player on our Sony KD-34XBR960 direct-view CRT reference monitor. Minute details on The Last Samurai HD-DVD--the blades of grass, the cresting waves, the pores of the actors' faces, the stitching of uniforms and tapestries--leapt from the screen with startling crispness. It was among the best high-def images we've viewed, free of the softness and noise that are often seen on some overcompressed or poorly transferred HD cable and satellite broadcasts."


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *synyster* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info. Is this a common problem? I did unplug it for like 30 seconds, but not 5 minutes so I will try that when I get back home.



Synyster,


It's not common but does happen on occasion. With me it occured twice; about two weeks after I received the set in August and again last week.


Please let me know if this resolved the problem. Good luck!


Joe


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Smith* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I doubt that, actually. I can tell a noticeable difference between standard DVDs on a good upscaling DVD player vs. broadcast HD of the same movie on my XBR960.



Has anybody compared a HD/Blue Ray HD or HD TV broadcast of a movie they own on DVD by simultaneously playing them and switching back and forth? When a title I own comes on HD I will record it onto my HD DVI for such a test.


So many DVDs appear so sharp and vibrant on the 960 that I wasn't aware of any significant improvement on HD (for example "Ray" or "Shrek 2") but a back and forth comparision would be better than relying on memory.


----------



## masbama

I agree. LOTR or Batman Begins on the 960 by a Panny 77S thru HDMI loks better than the HDTV versions shown. Sound is better too! The best HDTV seems to me to be live broadcasts.


----------



## gamegod2x

Hi guys, i recently got my 34xbr960 a few weeks ago, i was wondering if someon can point me in the right direction, im trying to find some good settings (contrast, brightness, picture, sharpness).


Looking for these settings for the HD inputs Video 5/6.


thanks,

Dennis


----------



## synyster




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *synyster* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I THINK MY XBR960 JUST TOOK A CRAP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok so I got this TV brand new at Best Buy in the middle of Feb. The manufacturing date on the back said July 2005. Everything was going great until a couple of days ago when I encountered the "not powering on while plugged into a surge protector" issue. I simply plugged it directly into the wall and it came back on. Then I plugged it back into the surge protector and and everything was great....until this morning. I was playing on my PS2, then all of a sudden my whole screen got very blurry. At first I thought my PS2 component cables went bad, but when I started viewing regular TV the PQ was blurry as well...not to mention a strange red tint. Also when I click on 'display' the time and imput numbers are no longer solid while...now it has a red/green/bluish look to it. Also when I go to an imput channel thats not in use...instead of the screen being all black...there is a red tint with some faint red diagonal lines. Thank goodness for the extended warrenty. I just hope they have some left to replace mine with.



UPDATE: Ok so the best buy tech come outs, takes the back off and does some adjustments, while better, I still notice very slight blurriness with certain programs. Also if you click here you can see some blue bleeding from the letters and if you click here you can see some red bleeding from the letters. Surprise surprise when the tech came the whole 'there is a red tint with some faint red diagonal lines" issue was gone. Now the tech was telling me how I will get some slight bleeding and that it will never be 100%, and that most people dont look at the TV that hard. I told him it wasnt about me looking at the TV that hard...I just know what was present before the issue happened. Unfortunatly I have to 3 service calls before they can even give me a new TV.


----------



## POWERFUL

Does anyone have the box to this tv? I'm moving soon and I would like to use the Sony box and packaging if I could. I would pay for shipping and handling. Please PM me if your interest in removing your box is great enough to help me out.


----------



## RJRSW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Smith* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a friend who has the XS version of the display (don't remember the full product number, but it's the same tube that's in the XBR960). He has an HD-DVD player. I'm going over tomorrow evening to see what it's like. I'll report back.



I am going to be hooking up the all black Toshiba HD-D1 HD DVD model to my XBR960 on Sunday using the HDMI connections and I will report back after some testing.


----------



## alspicer

Here's a suggestion for anybody in the market for a tv stand. I just bought a Sauder 1153-465. Its the exact color of the 34xbr960. It is also wide enough with a fraction of an inch left over. It isn't deep enough. The back hangs off. I don't think that's a problem. None of the ones I looked at were deep enough. It is also the perfect height to put it across from a bed. It has glass doors over a component area. There is a storage area with a door. Also, a huge point to me, it has a swivel base. You can move the tv around a bit when hooking up cables, or adjust the tv for viewing.


----------



## fred33

I had an ISF calibrator "tweak" my TV. He did not do a great job. He did however tell me that the geometry adjustments are automatically done at the factory. I called a local service repair shop and was told they may have to order a new 400 dollar module to correct the goemetry. IF all of this is fact, does the SONY factory where my TV was made, have the numbers my TV was adjusted to in a data base somewhere?


fredd


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fred33* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had an ISF calibrator "tweak" my TV. He did not do a great job. *He did however tell me that the geometry adjustments are automatically done at the factory.* I called a local service repair shop and was told they may have to order a new 400 dollar module to correct the goemetry. IF all of this is fact, does the SONY factory where my TV was made, have the numbers my TV was adjusted to in a data base somewhere?
> 
> 
> fredd




Not only did he not do a good job, by your words, but he also fed you some misinformation, to boot.


None of this should be necessary. A good calibrator will come out and do at least one of two things:


1.) Service menu/computer magic.


2.) Physically remove the back of the TV and manually/physically adjust the actual magnets and so forth, as was done on mine.


I realize you probably feel burned right now, and I certainly would be looking for satisfaction in THAT regard, but I'd really try at some point to get a GOOD ISF calibrator out there to finish this off for you.


No way in hell you should have to buy some $400 part or anything like that.


Check out http://www.hdtvbychadb.com/ . Check out www.lionav.com , or go into our display calibration forum here and put up a thread and see who you can get in your area.


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=561596 


^^ This gives you an idea of what's supposed to happen when you get a quality ISF calibration job done by someone who knows what they're doing.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alspicer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here's a suggestion for anybody in the market for a tv stand. I just bought a Sauder 1153-465. Its the exact color of the 34xbr960. It is also wide enough with a fraction of an inch left over. It isn't deep enough. The back hangs off. I don't think that's a problem. None of the ones I looked at were deep enough. It is also the perfect height to put it across from a bed. It has glass doors over a component area. There is a storage area with a door. Also, a huge point to me, it has a swivel base. You can move the tv around a bit when hooking up cables, or adjust the tv for viewing.



Sounds nice...., we have a few Sauder products ourselves. Can you post a photo once completed? Is the weight capacity more than 200 pounds?


----------



## archon333




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sounds nice...., we have a few Sauder products ourselves. Can you post a photo once completed? Is the weight capacity more than 200 pounds?




Hear is specs on tv stand http://www.audio-video-furniture.com...5-TV-stand.htm 


Google is a wonderfil thing.


----------



## fred33

The ISF calibrator adjusted my color, but I am not happy with it. He also told me it would take HOURS to adjust my geometry. In the end, he was at my place for about 3 hours and charged $350. He said if he or someone were to come back to adjust the geometry, it would take a long time and cost more money


fred



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not only did he not do a good job, by your words, but he also fed you some misinformation, to boot.
> 
> 
> None of this should be necessary. A good calibrator will come out and do at least one of two things:
> 
> 
> 1.) Service menu/computer magic.
> 
> 
> 2.) Physically remove the back of the TV and manually/physically adjust the actual magnets and so forth, as was done on mine.
> 
> 
> I realize you probably feel burned right now, and I certainly would be looking for satisfaction in THAT regard, but I'd really try at some point to get a GOOD ISF calibrator out there to finish this off for you.
> 
> 
> No way in hell you should have to buy some $400 part or anything like that.
> 
> 
> Check out http://www.hdtvbychadb.com/ . Check out www.lionav.com , or go into our display calibration forum here and put up a thread and see who you can get in your area.
> 
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=561596
> 
> 
> ^^ This gives you an idea of what's supposed to happen when you get a quality ISF calibration job done by someone who knows what they're doing.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fred33* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The ISF calibrator adjusted my color, but I am not happy with it. He also told me it would take HOURS to adjust my geometry.
> 
> 
> In the end, he was at my place for about 3 hours and charged $350.
> 
> 
> He said if he or someone were to come back to adjust the geometry, it would take a long time and cost more money
> 
> 
> fred




I have very serious concerns that you were:


1.) misinformed


2.) misled


3.) ripped off


Not your fault at all.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fred33* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had an ISF calibrator "tweak" my TV. He did not do a great job. He did however tell me that the geometry adjustments are automatically done at the factory. I called a local service repair shop and was told they may have to order a new 400 dollar module to correct the goemetry. IF all of this is fact, does the SONY factory where my TV was made, have the numbers my TV was adjusted to in a data base somewhere?
> 
> 
> fredd



Unfortunately it sounds like you had a bad calibrator. Adjustments are done at the factory but that does not mean they are done correctly.


What city and state are you in? Perhaps someone can recommend one for you if we knew your city.


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fred33* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had an ISF calibrator "tweak" my TV. He did not do a great job. He did however tell me that the geometry adjustments are automatically done at the factory. I called a local service repair shop and was told they may have to order a new 400 dollar module to correct the goemetry. IF all of this is fact, does the SONY factory where my TV was made, have the numbers my TV was adjusted to in a data base somewhere?
> 
> 
> The ISF calibrator adjusted my color, but I am not happy with it. He also told me it would take HOURS to adjust my geometry. In the end, he was at my place for about 3 hours and charged $350. He said if he or someone were to come back to adjust the geometry, it would take a long time and cost more money



At times, the results of a calibration can seem magical and others show slight change. It depends on the initial settings and capabilities of the TV and the ability of the calibrator.


One thing all should remember; the scope of an ISF calibration. The goal is to take a properly functioning display and adjust the image to industry standards taking into account the viewing environment. The ISF does not support the disassembly and excursion to the inner workings of the TV. Many calibrators have migrated from TV service professions others may have extended experience with a specific model and offer extended service. I restrict my calibration work on DV TVs to the service controls in the service menus.


Fred, adjusted my color, but I am not happy with it do you mean the color of white (grayscale), or the saturation or the hue (phase)? Just saying you are not happy doesn't say much. Yes geometry adjustments are pre set at the factory, however this is a device subject to changes in geomagnetism. Alignment will change every time you move the TV into a different place or orientation on the planet.


My position on geometry is to have noticeable problems corrected by the factory, under warranty. Then, if you are not happy, consider fine tweaking during the calibration (additional cost). I may be slower than some, however, I have spent as much as 10-hours working on a XBR960 tweaking geometry and calibrating multiple inputs.


Some people that are use to watching TV with white way above the 10,000 to 15,000K range can have difficulty with D65 in the beginning. Calibration can be done to 6500K and still look terrible (usually too green). For $350, you should have received calibration of two inputs and possible minor tweaks of convergence. You should have reviewed the results with the calibrator and watched source material you are familiar with to verify the changes. If it didn't look right to you at that time did you confront the calibrator with your concerns?


The Geometry adjustments could easily cost more than your calibration did. It is a very tedious, involved job to do and takes time to get it all corrected.


You may have been misinformed/mislead if you TV needed or should have had service before the calibration was done.


If you are truly unhappy with the calibration, is/was the calibrator willing to come back and review your issues? Did these issues exist when he left?


At this time, it's hard to determine if you got a poor calibration or just don't like a calibrated display. We don't know what your Color issue is, but, did you get more dark/light detail and improved picture quality (reduced edge enhancements)? Did you get settings for Day/Night?


----------



## Michael TLV

Greetings


RE: fred33's items.


The geometry / overscan can be significantly improved with just the service menu items. Convergence issues on a CRT tube set are another matter. Things that involve opening the back of the set move into the realm of the TV repair man and out of the hands of the calibrator. An ISF calibrator is not usually a repair man ... but a repairman can become a calibrator if he chooses.


Many people confuse the two ... although calibration and repair do not need to have anything to do with each other.


Opening up the back of the set and playing with yokes and magnets is not something that most calibrators do. I won't do that because of the liability issues involved as well as the high voltage ... fear of death. few walk into a $250 job and want to walk out down $1500 for TV repairs or replacement.


I find that a calibration session works far better when the client is part of the session. If they understand or are made to understand all the steps involved in the process as well as the history of why this service is important ... then the end result is far more satisfying. It also helps if the calibrator person has the proper tools and experience with a particular set.


Sometimes, a casual calibrator ... (someone who attended the seminar because his company sent him there.) won't even bother to upgrade knowledge or make sure the testing equipment is well maintained and "calibrated" itself. The analyzer devices also require routine re-certification to make sure that they are up to snuff and not giving bad results.


A casual calibrator looks at the analyzer device as a black box. It must always be right ... and does not look at the actual image resulting from the work.


I feel for you ... a typical crt tube calibration has a srp of $225 ... for one input signal type.


Regards


----------



## fred33

The ISF person was adjusting my color and he put in a CD and adjusted to make sure the "faces" and other colors looked right. He did hold up color filters and made more adjustments while he generated color bars. He adjusted the greyscale. Now my sturation setting is way below half. I can NOT get any kind of uniform color across imputs and even some of the chanells are that way.

When I set up the appointment, he said he could do geometry. When he started tweaking..it was obvious from the "hmmms" and "this is not good" comments that he could not fix the situation BUT he kept trying...I think to waste time and increase the cost. THEN he went on to "tweak" the color and that took him less than 20 minutes.

SO there you have it. 20 munites for color and 2 hours going "hmmm" "wow" and "this is not good" and not fixing it but telling me it would take a long time.


He did NOT have to open the set.


fred33


----------



## justsc

It sounds a whole lot like you may have been defrauded. This sounds for the world like somebody that invested in Avia and is selling themself off as a trained calibrator. Maybe you should call the Better Business Bureau. You might also call this guy on his apparent lack of ability given what you've already learned here.


If it were me, I would not let this guy near my set again and I would demand a refund.


Best of Luck!


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael TLV* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Opening up the back of the set and playing with yokes and magnets is not something that most calibrators do.



100% correct


Most will not even open the back of the set - for reasons such as you stated.


If you feel this is something you need, ask before you contract with the tech.


As have been shown in this thread, at least one has been willing to do it, but most do not and will not.


----------



## Chorgey

Is anyone else noticing a 'freeze' in their picture? Whenever certain commercials come on and have quite a bit of red in it, my picture and sound go berserk. This is either through the HDMI or even the QAM tuner. This is a rare occurance and only a couple of television commercials do this.


----------



## seti1

Well after working for about 4 weeks with the new DZ board, my XBR960N is back to the 4 blinks and shutdown after 20 minutes. It worked awsome while it worked! Needless to say, I am a bit disapointed with Sony. Has any one on this board experienced this with their XBR960? The new DZ board fixed the orginal problem. But it is right back to the V-Sync Low B error codes in the diagnostics screen. Maybe something is taking out the DZ board? At least it has a 2 year warranty.


----------



## Michael TLV

Greetings


It is not even clear that the calibrator had proper equipment to do the grayscale. If filters were all he had ... then you were scammed. The ISF does not condone this type of service. All practicing calibrators are required to have professional analyzing equipment of one form or another.


Regards


----------



## GlenC

Michael, I had that feeling too. Your ISF Calibrator should have use some sort of color analyzer to set the grayscale and should have used the SM color isolation to adjust color saturation, phase and color decoder (more accurate than the filters).


Another point is, when the customer has been the service menu making adjustments, it can take a lot more time and cost much more to correct the additional problems created. fred33 has previously posted that he has been into the service menu changing geometry, and who knows what else. The calibrator may have been doomed from the begining, however, he still should have been able to get the grayscale, color, hue, brightness, contrast and sharpness correct without dealing with geometry, a basic ISF calibration. I too, put in a DVD or HD channel to see how the colors, fleshtones, etc. look after calibration. The source material is not always the same as the test equipmnet.


----------



## fred33

I just love the way you ISF calibrators tell us how good you are and how we should hire you all to tweak our tv. It is also interesting how you tend to find fault with those who hire an ISF person and are not happy with some results.

The isf person I had did use a calibrator. He did say words like "oh wow, this is way off" Fact is, I did NOT touch any color anything on my tv except to use AVIA.


Also, if ISF calibrators can not do, or need hours upon hours to fix some geometry concerns, then they need to tell us this.


fredd.


----------



## Michael TLV

Greetings


Fred33, did your calibrator guy use proper calibration equipment to do the grayscale? Not Filters.


What paperwork did he provide you? Any before and after documentation?


I am the last person to come to a bad calibrator's defense. There is no calibration brotherhood out here. The greatest divide is that of the enthusiast calibrator and those that simply treat calibration as a job and could care less. Unfortunately, calibration services are not listed as such.


Just like there are no listings for "good doctors" and then one for "bad doctors."


If the man did not have the right equipment, you have grounds to complain against him right up to the ISF if you choose if he does not address your issues.


As usual ... one always expects clients to try to resolve their problems with the service provider first rather before going "public" with their issues.


(Should note that geometry is not something that ISF covers ... it just happens that many calibrators provide some form of service in that area no different than an enthusiast figuring out how to do it himself.)


Regards


----------



## GlenC

Michael, well put!


Fredd, we are not trying to defend a calibrator or blame you, just trying to get the facts to form an answer. To me, your first description was kind of like saying you went to the doctor and now you don't feel good. I have had to spend extensive hours fixing problems that customers have created by using the SM adjustments.


You say you don't like the "color", well, tell us what is wrong with the "color"? Are whites too green, blue or red, are the colors over/under saturated, are all of the colors too green or red? what do flesh tones look like? . . . . . . . . .


Obviously calibrations cannot be done via the internet, however rough diagnosis or possible causes/remedies cannot be done without details.


I fully agree with the idea of getting the calibrator to fix the problem or possibly refund your money before you go "public" . At that point contacting the ISF would be a next step. I offer full guarantees on my services, adjust prices at time of service if needed (I don't charge full rate for additional services when there is on-site learning involved). I also inform customers that I could spend x-hours to y-hours, depending on the potential services they desire.


----------



## epicbloodline

i think im gonna pass on it after all










ive been going thru all these post and its been nothing but headaches for the owners.


----------



## rtype

fred

What you're describing is a consequence of "perception of value." If you hire someone to do an ISF calibration and only a couple of things are but a little bit off and he then tweaks those things, you may in fact be just fine with that and feel that it was money well spent. However, your average person may think, "Gee, that was a waste of money." Turn lots of knobs and suddenly said hypothetical person may think, "Wow--this is some really complicated stuff. I'm glad I didn't try to just make due with Avia."


Of course, the calibrator burns his reputation with you by doing that sort of thing if when he's done with all of that smoke and mirrors stuff, he doesn't set it back to something that actually looks really damned good. But being the cynical analyst I am, I'd have to ask what his motives are, what the risks are and what the potential rewards are. If you bought a "one off" TV set and had him come out to your house this one time for a TV you'll keep for years, you may never frequent his business again. If you don't work in the business or have a large opportunity to bring new business to him, he may just not have any vested interest in your long term support. If that's the case, the simplest coarse of action is the one which allows him to get his money, get out of there and keeps you from complaining as he's walking out or wanting your money back.


Remember, a good salesman isn't someone who sells a good person a good product. A good salesman can sell someone the most worthless crap that person could imagine. A great salesman can do that and have that customer with his worthless crap just beaming with happiness with it. And whose to say that's really wrong, anyway. Truth is a purist's pursuit but happiness is for the masses.


...but I know nothing about this individual who did service for you. I am only a student of human nature.


And I do wonder how many unnecessary return visits and prescriptions I had to deal with last year as a result of the same emotional processes on the parts of the doctors and staff. But I know one thing I didn't know before... that next time: I do not want the Prednisone.


----------



## fred33

Well, even if I DID change geometry and WHO KNOWS WHAT ELSE, if I called you to come over and correct things would you come over? Or would you say that you won't because I had changed some geometry?

This forum is loaded with information about how to get into the service menu. Its loaded with information on how to change things once in there. If,and I repeat IF, some ISF folks in here will not touch a set that has been changed because of the information in here, then just state that concern.

I am willing to bet that if I said my geometry was off, and I called SONY service and they would fix it via a module for 400 bucks, some ISF folks reading this would say I could have save money by hiring them.

As far as my color being OFF, I am sorry I did not include the tiny details some of you wished. But let me try this...

The hue is off on each input. OFF = not right = to much red and or green. Flesh tones are rarely what they used to be. Saturation also varies from input to input more than it ever has. If I turn up the saturation to see a nice red tone to a HDTV broad cast (lets say an american flag) then the flesh tones become saturated also.

Now, I hope that helps.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GlenC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Michael, I had that feeling too. Your ISF Calibrator should have use some sort of color analyzer to set the grayscale and should have used the SM color isolation to adjust color saturation, phase and color decoder (more accurate than the filters).
> 
> 
> Another point is, when the customer has been the service menu making adjustments, it can take a lot more time and cost much more to correct the additional problems created. fred33 has previously posted that he has been into the service menu changing geometry, and who knows what else. The calibrator may have been doomed from the begining, however, he still should have been able to get the grayscale, color, hue, brightness, contrast and sharpness correct without dealing with geometry, a basic ISF calibration. I too, put in a DVD or HD channel to see how the colors, fleshtones, etc. look after calibration. The source material is not always the same as the test equipmnet.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *epicbloodline* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i think im gonna pass on it after all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ive been going thru all these post and its been nothing but headaches for the owners.



That's a good idea. This TV isn't for you if that's the only opinion you can draw from reading this thread.


----------



## Michael TLV

Greetings


Fred33, I'm still trying to determine if the calibrator guy used the proper equipment. You have replied many times and have not addressed this ... please do.


Regards


----------



## Hammerli

I'm not indicting your abilities, but many people make the mistake of assuming this is like baking a cake, you just throw 1/2 x and 2/3 y into the mix and cook at Z degrees and you get a perfect cake. Sometimes a little information doesn't equate to knowledge but rather the ability to get in more trouble. Every single set requires a different matrix of geometry, color, and other settings. It seems lately there has been some prevalence of home brew adjusters that missed all the warnings about not touching the service menus if you don't know what you are doing. That means understanding the ramifications of one change on another parameter and being able to decipher what changes in what order need to be made. Applying that to the analogy above, if you bake the eggs before mixing them in the batter, it won't matter how precisely you follow the remaining steps.


Inversely to your statement, this forum is loaded with people who should not be diving into the service menu just because they can. Maybe you have the technical acumen to effect the changes in the right order, but if that was the case, an ISF adjuster shouldn't have had to do much to get your set dead on.


To answer your question, if I knew someone had been screwing around in the service menus the first thing I'd ask is if they'd logged ALL of the original settings. If they had I'd agree to come out only on the terms the set was returned to those settings.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fred33* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This forum is loaded with information about how to get into the service menu. Its loaded with information on how to change things once in there.


----------



## fred33

"To answer your question, if I knew someone had been screwing around in the service menus the first thing I'd ask is if they'd logged ALL of the original settings. If they had I'd agree to come out only on the terms the set was returned to those settings."


Well Hammerli, why would I pay you to do something I could do. No, the setting were not saved. If they were, I would evem be even in this conversation. I would have set them all back myself.


"Every single set requires a different matrix of geometry, color, and other settings. It seems lately there has been some prevalence of home brew adjusters that missed all the warnings about not touching the service menus if you don't know what you are doing. That means understanding the ramifications of one change on another parameter and being able to decipher what changes in what order need to be made. Applying that to the analogy above, if you bake the eggs before mixing them in the batter, it won't matter how precisely you follow the remaining steps."


THis is a great analogy. I wonder why someone like youself, who no doubt is very knowlegable about our subject matter would only attempt to correct my TV if the original settings were put down?


My whole point to this is, if you do not want to try to fix some item on a TV set, then let your customers know. People often screw up things with limited knowlege. They also like to get that fixed by hiring a professional who can do the job.



...Michael..

The calibrator had a generator and he used it for color adjustment and tried some geometry fixes with it. He then put in a CD and adjusted again using the owner friendly controls. I am saying when it was all over with, it was hard to adjust the color of some of the inputs....thanks.


fred


----------



## seti1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seti1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well after working for about 4 weeks with the new DZ board, my XBR960N is back to the 4 blinks and shutdown after 20 minutes. It worked awsome while it worked! Needless to say, I am a bit disapointed with Sony. Has any one on this board experienced this with their XBR960? The new DZ board fixed the orginal problem. But it is right back to the V-Sync Low B error codes in the diagnostics screen. Maybe something is taking out the DZ board? At least it has a 2 year warranty.



One thing I forgot to mention in my orignal post, the room temp was 76 degrees when the problem started. The next morning it was 67 degrees and the TV ran for 3 hours with out a problem. The following evening it was 72 degrees and it ran for another two hours. Makes me think it could be a heat related issue.


Anyone on this board experienced the 4 blinks and had a successful repair? What board did they replace to fix the problem?


----------



## Michael TLV

Greetings


Thanks Fred,


Sounds like he did not even use a color analyzer to do grayscale then. It is a probe that he puts on the screen ... a little hockey puck as we like to call it ... or a pod. Put up a gray box ... take a reading ... almost as if the TV is sick ...


If this is the case ... yes you got hosed ... sorry to hear that ... you can start yelling at him to demand satisfaction ... (note ... not satisfaction as in you are satisfied with the end result ... but in reference to him not doing what he was paid to do. Like a car shop ... if they have a 40 point inspection ... you expect them to go through that ... but if they don't ... then you should be dissatisfied.)


I have never found geometry errors on these sony sets to be that profound. Even if the end user is toying with the geometry ... they logically can't do that much harm that can't be undone. There are limits to image geometry where even someone with little knowledge says that the image is not right ... so they back off.


Regards


----------



## Michael TLV

Greetings


Main question though ... how do the DVD's look? Do you find that you have to adjust the color and tint a lot on DVDs too. I am assuming that he must have optimized the TV for some signal set ... which in most cases is your DVD player.


From the ISF class ... calibrators are supposed to calibrate the TV as a system ... rather than a stand alone unit. It means the DVD player must be optimized to the TV since it is part of the system.


Once this level of calibration is done ... one should always take a look at the other sources and go from there.


(In my case, I always tell clients that their TV is now optimized for that DVD player ... therefore ... change the player and the calibration can become suspect and may need to be retweaked. For things like cable signals ... the optimal DVD settings are supposed to serve as a starting point only for that signal type. Cable/satellite programs can vary and do from channel to channel ... program to program ... and cannot be specifically calibrated as a result. One simply hopes that the optimal DVD settings bring the cable closer. Because of this reality, I make sure that the TV setting reset point is always the point of optimal dvd performance. If a program is too dark on cable ... you gotta change it. Color wrong ... change it ... tint wrong ... change it a few clicks ... but with a press of the handy reset button on the remote ... back to optimal settings again. A good foundation to start with. )


Regards


----------



## williamtassone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *epicbloodline* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i think im gonna pass on it after all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ive been going thru all these post and its been nothing but headaches for the owners.




Agree, from a certain point of view, though most of these headaches are fixable.


Motion blur, dead pixels and burn in are not.


For example Synester recently posted a "blue bleeding" to the edge of his images. It might be a 40 second convergence fix in service mode.


Hopefully if SED comes out we can all look back and laugh


----------



## williamtassone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *krob111* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just noticed a blueish/purple tint in the lower left corner of my XBR960 screen. I have had the set for almost 2 years, and generally have the pic mode set on Pro. Has anyone else seen this? Better yet, is it symptomatic of a bigger problem? Tube on its way out already? I really hope not after not even 2 years and the $2000 price tag. Thanks in advance for any input.



It may be just a shift in the earth's magnetic field. I had the same problem in Jan 2005 fixed it in service mode. 5 minutes all up


I just hope you haven't rung the clowns at Sony yet

http://www.agoraquest.com/viewtopic....d2=electronics 


Joe had a similar problem, if he still has his hair left, I think he was happy NOT to let someone replace the tube

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5&page=1&pp=30


----------



## Hammerli




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fred33* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well Hammerli, why would I pay you to do something I could do. No, the setting were not saved. If they were, I would evem be even in this conversation. I would have set them all back myself.



This is the point of the whole conversation; you're paying someone to fix what you thought you could, but couldn't.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fred33* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> THis is a great analogy. I wonder why someone like youself, who no doubt is very knowlegable about our subject matter would only attempt to correct my TV if the original settings were put down?



Because you already baked the eggs. In my experience it always takes much more time and detective work to calibrate a set that the owner has "fixed". In my experience with Sony's 34" wide tubes, very few have what I would call good geometry without removing the back and adjusting with permalloy. But then I'm an OCD engineer, and my 960 is literally yardstick perfect. I understand most calibrators don't want to get into that level of time/potential for hazards, but if one of the primary concerns of the owner is geometry(usually is) it can only partially be dealt with in the SM (if the owner is really picky and looking for perfection, which some here on this forum probably are).


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fred33* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, even if I DID change geometry and WHO KNOWS WHAT ELSE, if I called you to come over and correct things would you come over? Or would you say that you won't because I had changed some geometry?
> 
> This forum is loaded with information about how to get into the service menu. Its loaded with information on how to change things once in there. If, and I repeat IF, some ISF folks in here will not touch a set that has been changed because of the information in here, then just state that concern.
> 
> I am willing to bet that if I said my geometry was off, and I called SONY service and they would fix it via a module for 400 bucks, some ISF folks reading this would say I could have save money by hiring them.
> 
> As far as my color being OFF, I am sorry I did not include the tiny details some of you wished. But let me try this...
> 
> The hue is off on each input. OFF = not right = to much red and or green. Flesh tones are rarely what they used to be. Saturation also varies from input to input more than it ever has. If I turn up the saturation to see a nice red tone to a HDTV broad cast (lets say an American flag) then the flesh tones become saturated also.
> 
> Now, I hope that helps.



Fred33, YES, I would, and I have, gone out to fix geometry on displays that the customer changed and couldn't get back to factory. I did inform them it could take additional time and money than normal, depending on the severity of the problem. If you called Sony and complained that the geometry is off, they will send a tech, however, service techs are paid a flat rate for the service call and they spend more than 15-minutes they loose money, from their normal billing rates (kind of like HMO doctors). Factory acceptable specifications are not for the videophile, they are for the masses. Calibrators, ISF or not, who specialize in full service, including geometry, will take the time to perfect the geometry.


Michael's concern about the calibrator using a color pod analyzer is important. If an analyzer was not used, I agree, you were "hosed". The XBR960 is calibrated on each input, however there is a global gray-scale and each input and scan rate is tweaked with the offsets. From the price you paid, you should have two inputs that look reasonably good.


Service menu adjustments are like a Tax Return, you can make one change and everything else changes, sometimes for the good, sometimes not.


Sorry for your experience, however, when the XBR960 is properly calibrated, the picture is stunning, it doesn't get much better. Michael also gave some very important information, in his statement and is worth repeating


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Michael TLV* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Main question though ... how do the DVDs look? Do you find that you have to adjust the color and tint a lot on DVDs too. I am assuming that he must have optimized the TV for some signal set ... which in most cases is your DVD player.
> 
> 
> From the ISF class ... calibrators are supposed to calibrate the TV as a system ... rather than a stand alone unit. It means the DVD player must be optimized to the TV since it is part of the system.
> 
> 
> Once this level of calibration is done ... one should always take a look at the other sources and go from there.
> 
> 
> (In my case, I always tell clients that their TV is now optimized for that DVD player ... therefore ... change the player and the calibration can become suspect and may need to be re-tweaked. For things like cable signals ... the optimal DVD settings are supposed to serve as a starting point only for that signal type. Cable/satellite programs can vary and do from channel to channel ... program to program ... and cannot be specifically calibrated as a result. One simply hopes that the optimal DVD settings bring the cable closer. Because of this reality, I make sure that the TV setting reset point is always the point of optimal DVD performance. If a program is too dark on cable ... you gotta change it. Color wrong ... change it ... tint wrong ... change it a few clicks ... but with a press of the handy reset button on the remote ... back to optimal settings again. A good foundation to start with. )


----------



## epicbloodline

what the HELL is super fine pitch anyway...no really!


no lcd's have it? or something like it, how does the technology work?


an expert refered the xbr960 as a movie industry set he used terms like..


reference tv or studio set!! he said the movie guys have this set and swears by it if so it's to bad that they're NOT being produced again..EVER


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *epicbloodline* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> what the HELL is super fine pitch anyway...no really!
> 
> 
> no lcd's have it? or something like it, how does the technology work?
> 
> 
> an expert refered the xbr960 as a movie industry set he used terms like..
> 
> 
> reference tv or studio set!! he said the movie guys have this set and swears by it if so it's to bad that they're NOT being produced again..EVER



From Sony:


> Quote:
> Super Fine Pitch CRT
> 
> 
> Created especially for displaying high resolution pictures like high-definition broadcast, the new Super Fine Pitch CRT features the proprietary Super Fine Pitch Aperture Grill with 65 percent increased number of vertical "slits," which improve image resolution, for crisp, brilliant, highest picture quality reproduction from corner to corner.
> 
> 
> Together with a new electron gun and high intensity luminescent phosphor, the Super Fine Pitch CRT delivers exceptional picture performance. The improvement is immediately noticeable, with no visible vertical lines on the screen and higher resolution to all corners.



Same thing as the dot-pitch in CRT computer monitors


----------



## gigaguy

Only tubes (and not all tubes) have aperture grills AFAIK. It's a Sony thing but other brands have them too.


----------



## epicbloodline




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gigaguy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Only tubes (and not all tubes) have aperture grills AFAIK. It's a Sony thing but other brands have them too.



and NO LCD'S could duplicate this technology, or come close


----------



## fred33

Yes he did use a color analyzer. Yes he did do some color adjustments with my DVD player. My point was, that after he was finished, the User friendly adjustments had to be moved around a lot per imput and even on some channels. Previously, I had not had to move or re-adjust hardly at all. He did say he did 2 imputs, and I remember him commenting that some color adjustments were way off...but in that case I NEVER have touched any color adjustments in the SM.

I do have a general understanding of grey scale and how the will affect my viewing. (thanks to lots of reading and looking at this forum).




To Hammerli :

Quote:

Originally Posted by fred33

Well Hammerli, why would I pay you to do something I could do. No, the setting were not saved. If they were, I would evem be even in this conversation. I would have set them all back myself.



This is the point of the whole conversation; you're paying someone to fix what you thought you could, but couldn't.


Quote:

Originally Posted by fred33

THis is a great analogy. I wonder why someone like youself, who no doubt is very knowlegable about our subject matter would only attempt to correct my TV if the original settings were put down?



Because you already baked the eggs. In my experience it always takes much more time and detective work to calibrate a set that the owner has "fixed". In my experience with Sony's 34" wide tubes, very few have what I would call good geometry without removing the back and adjusting with permalloy. But then I'm an OCD engineer, and my 960 is literally yardstick perfect. I understand most calibrators don't want to get into that level of time/potential for hazards, but if one of the primary concerns of the owner is geometry(usually is) it can only partially be dealt with in the SM (if the owner is really picky and looking for perfection, which some here on this forum probably are).


,,,AND my point is, all adjustments done to geometry were done in the SM. IF I had put down all the original settings, I would just put them back and therefore no need for "professional" assistance. You said your set is yardstick perfect....do I take that to mean you are really picky and looking for perfection??


....

Finaly, would anyone reading this with real experiece, let themselves be hired to fix geometry concerns that were mal-adjusted by the owner in the SM? What would the cost be? And, would you gladly help for your price, or would you chastise the owner for going into the SM and act like some fix it god.


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fred33* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Finaly, would anyone reading this with real experiece, let themselves be hired to fix geometry concerns that were mal-adjusted by the owner in the SM? What would the cost be? And, would you gladly help for your price, or would you chastise the owner for going into the SM and act like some fix it god.



As I mentioned before, no problem, I have done this before and would do it again. Just a matter of your being within my service area. Michael TLV would be an excellent choice in his service area. There are many "Professional" ISF calibrators that can and would solve your problem, many travel. You just need to communicate with them to find a solution. As for cost, you will get various rates, however, most will be on an hourly basis for geometry corections, and some may quote a "not to exceed" price. I have done that before. You can look here 


There is a two year warranty on the XBR, have you tried Sony, or has the warranty expired?


----------



## fred33

Still under warranty.

I am not so sure as to what to tell the local service guy so I can get it fixed for free.


fredd


----------



## Mathesar

Wow I just realised watching 4:3 material in Normal mode (with the black bars on sides) looks much nicer vs. any of the zoom modes,the picture is brighter & crisper.. I had been using Wide Zoom all along.


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fred33* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Still under warranty.
> 
> I am not so sure as to what to tell the local service guy so I can get it fixed for free.
> 
> 
> fredd



Fredd, I would call Sony service and explain the problems you are having. If it appears to be outside the "acceptable" range, they should send a tech. Just remember, "acceptable" geometry is not perfect.


----------



## epicbloodline




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GlenC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Fredd, I would call Sony service and explain the problems you are having. If it appears to be outside the "acceptable" range, they should send a tech. Just remember, "acceptable" geometry is not perfect.




not for nutin

but what kind of equipment do you guys use to calibrate these 960's and are they different from other calibrators or is it all the same?


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *epicbloodline* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> not for nutin
> 
> but what kind of equipment do you guys use to calibrate these 960's and are they different from other calibrators or is it all the same?



For geometry, a HD signal generator is used to display test patterns through any of inputs at any scan-rate, including the ATSC input. The rest of the geometry is left to the skill of the calibrator.


For the grayscale, a color analyzer, for CRTs, is used.


For color decoding, saturation and phase, a test pattern and the internal color isolation works best.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GlenC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For geometry, a HD signal generator is used to display test patterns through any of inputs at any scan-rate, including the ATSC input. The rest of the geometry is left to the skill of the calibrator.
> 
> 
> For the grayscale, a color analyzer, for CRTs, is used.
> 
> 
> For color decoding, saturation and phase, a test pattern and the internal color isolation works best.




^^ And none of this stuff comes cheap, kids.


----------



## epicbloodline




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ^^ And none of this stuff comes cheap, kids.



how much money does this type of equipment cost, just wondering!

how much of a difference will you notice after calibration 5%-10% ect?


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *epicbloodline* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> how much of a difference will you notice after calibration 5%-10% ect?



Good question, but impossible to answer. Some sets (even within brand/model) need it more than others. Other "fixes" may be valued by some viewers more than others. Does overscan adjustment on set x for viewer y yield a 10% viewing improvement? 15%?


What I can say is this... the calibration dramaticly improves performance on the 960. Colors are more vibrant/accurate, text over blacks appear as if someone painted black enamel over the screen and the smoothness (for example blue of the sky at a baseball stadium is stunning. In a word the PQ is ... lifelike.


I can't imagine not doing it for any set I buy in the future, but for a set like the 960 (where enthusiasts are sacrificing screen size, weight, cabninet size, etc. for PQ)... IMHO it is an easy decision.


----------



## Michael TLV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *epicbloodline* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> how much money does this type of equipment cost, just wondering!
> 
> how much of a difference will you notice after calibration 5%-10% ect?



Greetings


I can only speak for my own equipment line up used for a set like this.


Laptop $1000

Color Analyzing software/hardware $2500

Signal Generator $1300

Test Discs $400

Optical Comparator $900

Training/Certification $1500


I have much more elaborate equipment for more complex displays (like the $12000 Minolta CS200 spectrometer).


The second part of the question falls into the world of subjectivity.


How much of a difference will you notice?


Answer me this ... how long is a piece of string?


If you can answer this one ... I can answer the other one.


How much of a difference depends on a number of things ...


1.) The state of your TV / equipment compared to others off the assembly line. All different. Without owning many ... you won't know if you got an average one or an above average one or a friday afternoon one.


2.) Your Value system. Subjectivity to the max. No answer can be provided unless I can crawl into your head and look at the world through your eyes and know how you value things. Value Judgements ...


A picture that is slightly out of focus means nothing to one person and everything to someone else ... who is right? Who is wrong?


For my own clients ... I have worked hard to take subjectivity completely out of the calibration equation when potential clients talk to me. The service provides a set series of tasks to be performed to the best of my ability and knowledge at the time of the work and within the limitations of the equipment. When completed ... payment is expected. There is no further discussion about this. If the potential client still has doubt ... then calibration is not a service they should seek ... or certainly not from me.


Regards


----------



## DeepFreeze451




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *epicbloodline* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> how much money does this type of equipment cost, just wondering!
> 
> how much of a difference will you notice after calibration 5%-10% ect?



a calibrator- who buys good equipment, can spend, and reasonably write off $10-20K in gear. yes, $20,000.



i will get my next display calibrated. as it will have to last years and years.


Some advice, speak with the ISF guy/gal, be polite, and they should quote you around $270 total/ not to exceed price for a CRT up to 36"


plasma, LCDs, projectors cost more.


----------



## DJF(NJ)




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Good question, but impossible to answer. Some sets (even within brand/model) need it more than others. Other "fixes" may be valued by some viewers more than others. Does overscan adjustment on set x for viewer y yield a 10% viewing improvement? 15%?
> 
> 
> What I can say is this... the calibration dramaticly improves performance on the 960. Colors are more vibrant/accurate, text over blacks appear as if someone painted black enamel over the screen and the smoothness (for example blue of the sky at a baseball stadium is stunning. In a word the PQ is ... lifelike.
> 
> 
> I can't imagine not doing it for any set I buy in the future, but for a set like the 960 (where enthusiasts are sacrificing screen size, weight, cabninet size, etc. for PQ)... IMHO it is an easy decision.



Hi, care to say who did your calibration??? I'm not too far from you in Ocean County, NJ and am considering getting my 960 calibrated pretty soon. You can reply to me privately if you prefer. Thank-you


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ronnie Ferrell* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Need some input please. I don't have the 960 but do have the 955. Can anyone confirm if they have the below issue or not with the 960? I only have 10 days left to decide if this issue is going to bug me enough to warrant a return. I also know this might be me being very picky...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The issue I have is with what I will call an "offset shadow ghost" that is always about 1/10" to the right of images viewed on my TV. Kind of like the grayscale image is to the right by 1/10" of the color image. It does it with all inputs and with HD and SD TV as well. It is most noticeable with animated DVDs like Aladdin, Lion King, Nemo, etc, because of the solid color fields. With 4:3 content it is very obvious to see to the right of the left black bar.
> 
> 
> Here is a close up shot I posted a while back of Simba's paw. Notice the shadow to the right of each paw pad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone else have this type of issue? Can you play an animated DVD and look close to see if you see it? Do you see a shadow line to the right of the left bar is 4:3 mode?
> 
> 
> Since the above shot, I have gone into the service menu and adjusted
> 
> SYSM=3 (flat)
> 
> VMLV=0
> 
> VMCR=0
> 
> VMLM=0
> 
> VMFO=0
> 
> VMDL=0
> 
> 
> This keeps the problem from being emphasized by Scanning Velocity Modulation especially SYSM=3 but it is still slightly visible.
> 
> 
> The Circuit City tech guy came out today and acknowledged the problem, but said the rest of the image looked so good, he did not want to adjust anything since he did not know exactly what was causing the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks much for any input!
> 
> 
> Ronnie Ferrell



Interesting I notice the exact same thing on my 2 month old XBR960N , anyone else notice this as well? It's not a huge deal but I would be interested to know if its common, I even see this ghosting on the memory stick screen and user menu so its not related to the video source or inputs.


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Interesting I notice the exact same thing on my 2 month old XBR960N , anyone else notice this as well? It's not a huge deal but I would be interested to know if its common, I even see this ghosting on the memory stick screen and user menu so its not related to the video source or inputs.



This looks exactly like edge enhancement. EE is added to the more vertical lines line portions as the beam scans from left to right in the picture, and usually to the right and a little bit downward, just like the paw in the picture, because it happens in time after the vertical edge of the line is drawn. You've done well by turning off artificial EE and you also need to turn down the Sharpness setting in the user menu. Also in the user menu turn off ClearEdge.


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *justsc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This looks exactly like edge enhancement. EE is added to the more vertical lines line portions as the beam scans from left to right in the picture, and usually to the right and a little bit downward, just like the paw in the picture, because it happens in time after the vertical edge of the line is drawn. You've done well by turning off artificial EE and you also need to turn down the Sharpness setting in the user menu. Also in the user menu turn off ClearEdge.



Hrm disabling Clearedge and lowering sharpness helps but its still there, It's easily noticeable when looking for it on the Cartoon Network channel , I just checked my HS510 tv w/ Cartoon network and this ghosting isn't present *at all* even if I set Clearedge on High.


but it's really not noticable from normal viewing distance at least...


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It's not going to work long term over the optical output like you think. Even the article you posted appreared to speak to that fact.



Just to continue with trying to understand exactly what a buyer of BRD or HDDVD players might expect...


In this month's May/June (issue #68) of "The Perfect Vision", on page 8 there's a letter to the Editor regarding audio connections from a new BRD/HDDVD player to an AVR using either (a) HDMI, (b) discrete analog, or (c) TosLink/coaxial. The question is specifically with respect to obtaining the benefits of the new high-resolution audio formats, but in replying Robert Harley mentions and describes the results of using the legacy TosLink/coaxial audio path as well:


"According to Craig Eggers of Dolby, high-definition audio formats decoded in the player can be heard at their full resolutions if the AVR is equipped with HDMI Version 1.1 or higher. In your example, the player would [perform the decoding and] pass up to eight channels of [uncompressed] PCM to the connected AVR through HDMI, which performs bass management and other DSP.


"In AVRs without HDMI input, you can simply connect the HD DVD or Blu-ray player's eight line-level analog outputs to the AVR's eight (or six) line-level analog inputs. The [uncompressed high-resolution discrete] analog input can be assigned to any video input.


"Version 1.3 of the HDMI spec carries the [non-decoded] high-resolution bitstream to the connected AVR which will decode the signal, provided the AVR is equipped with Dolby Digital Plus, Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD decoders. It will be some time before HDMI v1.3 is available.


"Finally, note that HD DVD and Blu-ray players will output a conventional Dolby Digital or DTS bitstream on the coaxial or TosLink digital jacks for backward compatibility with "legacy" Dolby Digital AVRs. With this connection method, however, you will not hear the advantages of the the new high-resolution audio formats."



While admittedly this is just an Editor's reply to a letter, note that there is no mention of the HDMI-connected (from the AVR) display device's ability to handle HDMI v1.0 or v1.1 or v1.3 as optionally influencing the audio sent from the player to the AVR. In particular, there is also no mention of the TosLink/coaxial path from player to AVR being in any way compromised or down-rezzed with something other than today's non-HD "legacy" Dolby/DTS multi-channel digital audio.


Now there should be at least one or more 34XBR960 owners reading this thread who have already gone out and bought the new now-available Toshiba HD-DVD player, and who can quickly and easily tell us what the poop really is... from real world experiments. If they don't have a new HDMI-enabled AVR then they're likely just connecting the HDMI output from the player to the HDMI input on the XBR960, and using the TosLink/coax audio path to their existing AVR. Surely they can tell us definitively what results they're achieving.


Anyone with a new HD-DVD player care to tell us the true story? Please?


----------



## avaroni

Hi, and sorry if I'm breaking some rule posting like this...kinda new here. I just bought what was supposed to be the last xbr 960 at a local suburban Detroit area retailer, new, in the box. When the set was delivered today, I noticed a number of scratchces on the case, and after cleaning it, found the top of the set to be very dirty. I'm sure the set was a floor model, because the kind of scratches and dirt I found would not come from someone's home. Plus, the remote was out of the bag, batteries installed, and the manual had clearly been thumbed-through quite a bit. I got the set for $1050.00, plus I spent another $129.00 for an additional two year warranty (I was told it only came with a 90 day warranty). I will start calling all the local stores from this company tomorrow (about 40 in all) to see if I can find a new, in the box, set, and swap them out. If not, I was wondering if I should just keep it (manufactured september of 2005, made in mexico) or take it back and get an xbr 955 for a few more hundred bucks, assuming I can get a brand new one. I have lurked here a bit (thus I got the 960 and not thenew but non-sfp 970 model) and would appreciate the input of the caliiber of folks who generously post their advice and experiences here. Thanks.


----------



## williamtassone

If it had scratches on it, they lied to you- ring em up & tell em to shove it up their pipe hole .


It's either someone elses return or a floor model , either way legally you can tell them to stick it.


----------



## avaroni

Hi and thanks for the encouragement. I called my sales rep, and after about three sentences he interrupted me and said he'd get me a new, in-the-box, factory sealed xbr 960, with apologies all over the place. I think the fact that I told him I was not interested in having some of the purchase price knocked off helped him to understand the genuineness of my concern. I appreciate the postings here, because I was reminded, in one of the postings, that if this tv was a floor model, it sat burning 7 days a week, 10 hours a day, with every jack-knows-who pushing whatever buttons they can on it. And lets not even think about the probing fingers of kids....


Anyway, that's the update. The picture on the set (even my soon-to-be-gone-one) is truly breathtaking in hd. I thought of the Bravia xbr 40 inch lcd, but the comparison led to only one choice; the 960. Add to that the $ saved (nearly an $1800.00 price difference) and I can see why Sony is starting to turn out a lesser quality tube set like the 970: how does one justify almost three times the price of an lcd for lesser quality picture? Ah well, not my problem at this juncture.


----------



## christophersj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Interesting I notice the exact same thing on my 2 month old XBR960N , anyone else notice this as well? It's not a huge deal but I would be interested to know if its common, I even see this ghosting on the memory stick screen and user menu so its not related to the video source or inputs.



Well we might be discussing two different artifacts here: inputs/cables and RGB convergence errors.


1) inputs/cables: when I first hooked up my Standard Def DVD player I used an S-video cable. It looked pretty good, but I noticed the very shadow lines you mention. I then tried Component cables and inputs and the problem almost completely disappeared.


2) RGB Convergence errors, where the red, blue, and green guns aren't shooting completely straight, and you can see a red, blue or green "halo" around white text or lines. I find that every CRT has this to some degree and I look forward to trying to reduce it in the Sony Service Menu.


And finally, we have to remember that we are blowing up a Standard Def picture to an HD screen, which is always bound to have some issue somewhere. SD doesn't really belong on an HDTV, in my opinion. But DVD's can can be nice and I understand wanting to make them look their best. What kind of connection are you using for DVD?


-Christopher Johnson


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *christophersj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well we might be discussing two different artifacts here: inputs/cables and RGB convergence errors.
> 
> 
> 1) inputs/cables: when I first hooked up my Standard Def DVD player I used an S-video cable. It looked pretty good, but I noticed the very shadow lines you mention. I then tried Component cables and inputs and the problem almost completely disappeared.
> 
> 
> 2) RGB Convergence errors, where the red, blue, and green guns aren't shooting completely straight, and you can see a red, blue or green "halo" around white text or lines. I find that every CRT has this to some degree and I look forward to trying to reduce it in the Sony Service Menu.
> 
> 
> And finally, we have to remember that we are blowing up a Standard Def picture to an HD screen, which is always bound to have some issue somewhere. SD doesn't really belong on an HDTV, in my opinion. But DVD's can can be nice and I understand wanting to make them look their best. What kind of connection are you using for DVD?
> 
> 
> -Christopher Johnson



I just checked for this ghosting / shadow effect on my new DVD player (Panasonic S97 via HDMI @ 1080i) using a SpongeBob dvd as a test and I dont see any ghosting on images (yay!) , This symptom is most noticeable on SD cable stations so you're probably right ,Even then its really not bad I've just always been overly picky about picture quality / artifacts etc










The convergence on my set was suprisingly good out of the box, the only area that really needed adjustment was the lower left corner but I was able to correct most of it with service menu adjustments.


----------



## archon333

Mr.Williamtassone,


i have read your knowlageable info on the importance of proper protection of this crt while alowing enough power on start up. Based on your advise (and my own limited reserch) I have pluged the XBR directly into the wall socket bypassing my
http://www.monstercable.com/power/pr...heater%20Power 


Would this http://www.apc.com/resource/include/...ase_sku=LE1200 unit suffice? Or does the spec that reads "let thru voltage rating


----------



## fred33

I called. They are coming out Monday. I hope they believe me!










fred



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GlenC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Fredd, I would call Sony service and explain the problems you are having. If it appears to be outside the "acceptable" range, they should send a tech. Just remember, "acceptable" geometry is not perfect.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fred33* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I called. They are coming out Monday. I hope they believe me!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fred



Make them believe you.







Don't take no for an answer. Don't let them leave that house until things are 100 percent to your satisfaction.


----------



## williamtassone

Archon


Don't get me wrong- surge arrestors have their place but based on my 3 year experience with them


1. They are a complete waste of time for a direct lightning strike


2. They don't protect against power sags (brown outs)- only a UPS can do that


3. In neighborhoods with a good power supply remember (as Dakota has pointed out on agoraquest) the power utility plant has circuit breakers "in-situ'- these are also located periodically along the power grid.


4. Some preclude the massive in-rush current required to correctly power up the degaussing coil of CRT's- hence this can lead to colour purity problems. I emphasize the word "can"


5. I truly believe in the power of the subconscoius mind- if I tell you that my $1500 line conditioner will improve sonic fidelity and yield a sharper picture you will hear and see these changes. Over-riding the placebo effect is hard.


6. APC is a tried and trustest brand- used by a large proportion of people in the IT industry- If the monster power bar that you currently have is serving you well, and you are not getting color impurities from poor degaussing, perhaps you could continue using it. Its not that I object to Monster Pty Ltd because their stuff doesn't work, its just that its horrifically overpriced.


That APC device you have highlighted rings a bell- I remember seeing it 2 years ago and couldn't work out then how it offered brown out protection if there was no internal battery. If your neighbourhood has a good power supply then all u need is the surge arrester , not a UPS


Whether or not a particular brand surge arrester/ UPS box is impeding the in-rush current or not I cannot scientifically say. If i try a brand and I keep getting green corners I ditch it. If the degaussing is fine so be it.


As to whether a UPS box/ Surge suppressor that impedes an in-rush current could cause premature failure of a thermisistor is beyond my limited electrical knowledge. Remember for CRT direct views Sony does not condone them. I use one though, as I'd rather a blown surge arrester than having a SOny tech fix my TV.


Now about that $2000 Hammer of Thor power cord...










Will


----------



## fred33

Well, they took the TV...hope the fix it LOL

fred




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Make them believe you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't take no for an answer. Don't let them leave that house until things are 100 percent to your satisfaction.


----------



## malagasang

Sent back the 34xbr960N to ABT three weeks ago. The 34xbr960N i got was a used one . They said they dont sell used item online but the TV has 4 missing screws, dents on the base and scratches on both sides and the packaging was not right. After so many phone calls to ABT they will just send the 4 missing screws. I will never deal with them again. ABT blew my chance on having a brand new xbr960N. Now my sony SU34xbr3 stand is still waiting for a xbr960 or maybe the xbr970 and I am still waiting for the refund...


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malagasang* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sent back the 34xbr960N to ABT three weeks ago. The 34xbr960N i got was a used one . They said they dont sell used item online but the TV has 4 missing screws, dents on the base and scratches on both sides and the packaging was not right. After so many phone calls to ABT they will just send the 4 missing screws. I will never deal with them again. ABT blew my chance on having a brand new xbr960N. Now my sony SU34xbr3 stand is still waiting for a xbr960 or maybe the xbr970 and I am still waiting for the refund...



Sorry to hear about this.


You should write about your experience with ABT on http://www.resellerratings.com/seller1845.html


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malagasang* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sent back the 34xbr960N to ABT three weeks ago. The 34xbr960N i got was a used one . They said they dont sell used item online but the TV has 4 missing screws, dents on the base and scratches on both sides and the packaging was not right. After so many phone calls to ABT they will just send the 4 missing screws. I will never deal with them again. ABT blew my chance on having a brand new xbr960N. Now my sony SU34xbr3 stand is still waiting for a xbr960 or maybe the xbr970 and I am still waiting for the refund...



I, too, am sorry to hear about your experience. I am a satisfied ABT customer, and have been for 27 years. While I preferred them before they got so big and so hi-pressured, they are an outstanding retailer and have bent over backwards to help when I had occasion to call them. Perhaps it helps that I live only a few miles from their facility.


That said, I will admit that I had to go to the service manager in order to get them to authorize a service call when I had some convergence issues on my then-new XBR-960. But he did authorize the service call, and the technician adjusted the set to my satisfaction, so I'm a happy camper.


So, it just doesn't sound right that they treated you like this. Are you sure you have contacted the right person? I know they wouldn't want an unhappy customer experience.


Just my thoughts.


Mark


----------



## Spokker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Interesting I notice the exact same thing on my 2 month old XBR960N , anyone else notice this as well? It's not a huge deal but I would be interested to know if its common, I even see this ghosting on the memory stick screen and user menu so its not related to the video source or inputs.



I see this too. It has happened on every single TV I've ever had.


----------



## prophcy0

I have a question concerning DVD playback on the 960. I have a Phillips DVP642 , which I mainly got for its ability to play all sorts of media files. It doesn't upconvert, but it does have progressive scan, which I've had turned on. However, I've read that I would get a better picture quality with the 960 by turning progressive scan off and using DRC on the 960. Should I do this? If so, what DRC palette should I use? I don't notice any difference at all when I switch between the various palettes while watching normal TV, so I have no clue what they do.


Thanks!


----------



## motorhead7319

I wonder how much i could sell a 45 day old 960 for?


----------



## hillyerm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *malagasang* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sent back the 34xbr960N to ABT three weeks ago. The 34xbr960N i got was a used one . They said they dont sell used item online but the TV has 4 missing screws, dents on the base and scratches on both sides and the packaging was not right. After so many phone calls to ABT they will just send the 4 missing screws. I will never deal with them again. ABT blew my chance on having a brand new xbr960N. Now my sony SU34xbr3 stand is still waiting for a xbr960 or maybe the xbr970 and I am still waiting for the refund...



Yeah, I had a similar fun buying experience with ABT. I ordered the 2nd to last XBR960N (see earlier in this thread) for 1400. The salesman agreed they would hold onto it for several weeks while my stand was on order ( http://bdiusa.com/avfurniture/axis_8024.shtml Cognac) in return for charging my credit card right away.


To my horror they delivered an XBR970 which I noticed several minutes after the delivery guys left. Customer Service tried to convince me it was an 'upgrade'. Imagine substituting an MSRP 1199 set for an MSRP 1899 set and not saying anything about it. I told them to call me back asap to schedule a return pickup. After waiting 6 hours I called and made an appointment for them to return the next Tuesday. The truck people finally called back after 7 hours after I had left the house. On Tuesday they said they had no record of the appointment. They finally came on Friday, late, but did issue a full refund. I never even turned the thing on.


Choices (about 10 days ago) were a new in box XBR960N for 1700, Sony Outlet refurbished (1 year/90 days warranty) for 1300, Best Buy / Tweeter floor models for 1500 - 1529, and a Fry's return/open box for 1049.


The Fry's looked immaculate, stated it was fine or restored to full factory condition, and came with manufacturer's warranty (2 years) and so I went with it. I'm happy with it so far (4 days).


Net savings was $322 countered by the extra half day of vacation I had to take off work.


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *prophcy0* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a question concerning DVD playback on the 960. I have a Phillips DVP642 , which I mainly got for its ability to play all sorts of media files. It doesn't upconvert, but it does have progressive scan, which I've had turned on. However, I've read that I would get a better picture quality with the 960 by turning progressive scan off and using DRC on the 960. Should I do this? If so, what DRC palette should I use? I don't notice any difference at all when I switch between the various palettes while watching normal TV, so I have no clue what they do.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Rule of thimb is go with what looks best. Don't worry about what others report, stick with what you like. Try out both approaches and see what looks best. The question of "which is best" usually refers to which gives the best picture quality.


Most mid-level to high end players have a better internal video processor than the one in the tv, and many users will elect to send 480p to the tv. Lower end players may or may not have better processors.


DRC - For film based DVDs (most movies) the best DRC setting is CineMotion.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *justsc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Rule of thimb is go with what looks best. Don't worry about what others report, stick with what you like. Try out both approaches and see what looks best. The question of "which is best" usually refers to which gives the best picture quality.
> 
> 
> Most mid-level to high end players have a better internal video processor than the one in the tv, and many users will elect to send 480p to the tv. Lower end players may or may not have better processors.
> 
> 
> DRC - For film based DVDs (most movies) the best DRC setting is CineMotion.




Good advice, I agree.


In my experience, going from standard composite video to component video made by far the biggest improvement. Component cables keep the colors "pure," because the video is never encoded to standard NTSC and transferred over a single wire.


I also have a DVD player with HDMI output. That gives another "step" improvement, but it's only slightly better.


Mark


----------



## mahicks

Well....I just got my Tv fixed yesterday....Sort of...


Heres my original post


----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Had my unit plugged in and working for exactly 90 days. Go figure....


When I leave the TV unplugged for a time and then plug it back in, here is what happens:


Plug TV in...


Hear unit "Click".... Light starts flashing....At 6 flashes, unit "Clicks" again.....Flashing Continues until 8....


At this time, the unit clicks again, the standby light recycles and then starts a blink rate of 7 then a pause, 7 and then a pause, etc..etc...


I've already called Sony, which referred me to the only authorized repair place in my area, which goes straight to voicemail and hasn't called me back.


Any suggestions?


What does this "Blink Code" of 7 mean?

Would be nice If I could tell the repair guy what was wrong so he could order/bring the right parts!


How long must I wait for the authorized repair place calls me back?


What other options do I have if any?


I purchased the TV from B&H Photo, which is a Sony Authorized seller for this unit. So my warranty is good.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Anyways,

Lous TV in Tallahassee (GREAT GUY) came out yesterday and replaced the entire bottom "Power/High voltage" board and all of the high voltage wires that come out of the board.


He then turned the tv on and used a screwdriver to adjust two screws (I assume Potentiometers) on the high voltage "transformer" to adjust my "focus" and called it a day.


TV worked great while watching tv for about 30 minutes, DVD for 30 minutes, XBox 360 for 45 minutes. I then turned it off and cooked dinner.


After that, I powered the TV back up and proceeded to watch CSI in HD. A commercial came on and BAM...The TV powered off and flashed the standby light 7 times.


I freaked, then pressed the power button and the tv came back on.


It did this about 15 times last night on various channels, inputs.


The only common denominator is it seems to only power off on high brightness/contrast sources. Such as commercials with bright white backgrounds, Cartoons, etc.


I have one of the preset modes set to a REALLY dark picture that I like to set it on while we sleep because my wife MUST have the tv on. It never powered down in this mode.


Does anyone have any ideas what it could be?


When Lou comes back out to fix it, should he use a calibration screen/source/equipment to adjust the "focus" and what ever else he did with the adjustment screws? Or does "eyeballing" it suffice?


Also the tv has some terrible geometry/size/overscan issues (always had it.) Should Lou be required by Sony to correct this?

Some examples are:

-Cut off Logos on the right side of the screen.

-Slightly cut off menu screens on the left side.

-Not true straight lines when the tv picture is "pillar boxed"

-Bottom letter box MUCH larger black area than the top letter box black area.


I've also noticed (especially on white/light screens) The picture tube has "dotted lines" like this --------------------------------------

That run horizontally from one side to another in two places, perfectly splitting the screen into thirds. You can only see this up close, but it still worries me.


It looks kinda like this like this on the TV:

(Without the "stray" vertical lines that the website keeps trying to insert into my drawing.)

___________________

| |

| |

|---------------------------- |

| |

| |

|-----------------------------|

| |

|__________________|


I'm sorry to ask so many questions, but can you guys see if you can explain some of this to me and tell me what I should have Lou do.


Thank You,

Michael Hicks.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

Short answer -


Your TV should not shut down like that. Call them back out.


The lines are typical of every trinitron tube in America. You will even find them on the Sony Trinitron Computer Monitors (or if you have a Trinitron Tube in a Computer Monitor from Dell or Gateway).


The overscan can be adjusted.


In rare cases, the lines can be straightened out in the setup menu which your repair person should be able to do.


In most cases, you will need the Sony Magnet Field Repair kit and a really good repair guy. The Sony kit is better than the magnets they slap on out West and gives one much more control in adjusting the lines.


In the most extreme cases, nothing can straighten the lines. I have had 2 of these tubes in this condition.


This is why I recommend against buying this set mailorder or from someone that does not have their own repair center.


All you can do is continue to insist that they fix it to your satisfaction.


----------



## mr2828

Also of course document all your calls and repair visits, and if it gets to the point of 3 or more tries then you can begin pushing Sony to replace your set.


----------



## justsc

This sounds for all the world like a failing power supply. Did that get replaced with the board that got replaced? Sometimes, when a new power supply is installed it can cause older, stressed components to fail. Sometimes it's necessary to replace the entire power subassembly all at the same time if there is such a thing.


Those horizontal lines are normal - no sweat.


Most of the anomalies you mention are fixable in the SM.


I would recommend that you keep this repair effort constrained to the power-off failure. If you get too diverse with your complaints the essential repair may get lost in the shuffle and the red tape. You can fix the other issues with help here.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr2828* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Also of course document all your calls and repair visits, and if it gets to the point of 3 or more tries then you can begin pushing Sony to replace your set.



With what??


----------



## mahicks

Thanks for the responses.


Lou called and said that Sony has a new service bulletin for the tv shuting down like that.

He said he ordered a couple of small parts and will call me to setup a service call when they come in.


----------



## seti1

Can you post which parts they replace to fix the TV shutting off. I went through something similar although mine did the 4 blink error code. It went off a couple times a few weeks ago. After that one evening it has been fine ever since. Makes me believe I may have had a low voltage condition from the Power Co. If it happens again I will measure the voltage coming out of the outlet.


The main power board that controls most of the voltage regulation is the DZ board. This is what they replaced the first time and it seemed to solve the problem. It was shutting off every 30 minutes before this board was replaced!


----------



## nishant20

Hi everyone, I have an XBR960 that has had numerous problems (all of which have been posted in this thread) and I had a some questions about Sony's warranty. My television is under full warranty (still has over a year left) and Sony has tried to do the following:


1) Sent the TV to a local repair place to have the CRT replaced

- Disaster, the picture is pretty much worse than before.


2) Sent a refurb replacement

- Even worse; the refurb was visibly used and the picture was bad.


3) Are now sending out another refurb replacement

- We'll see


From what I've read in the thread there are others that have had to jump through the same hoops... could you please help answer these questions:


How many times did they replace the TV before they actually sent you something different?


What TV did they send as a replacement? Is it a Bravia or some other TV or what?


I'm afraid that since this TV isn't being made anymore they will try to give me an inferior TV or they will try to keep sending refurbs till I tap out in submission.


Thanks,


Nishant


----------



## appadv

I had a service tech work on the TV when mine failed to turn on. Picture was the same, but the repair man did a poor job.


I would try to contact Sony for a new replacement.


----------



## baller99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mahicks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well....I just got my Tv fixed yesterday....Sort of...
> 
> 
> Heres my original post
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Had my unit plugged in and working for exactly 90 days. Go figure....
> 
> 
> When I leave the TV unplugged for a time and then plug it back in, here is what happens:
> 
> 
> Plug TV in...
> 
> 
> Hear unit "Click".... Light starts flashing....At 6 flashes, unit "Clicks" again.....Flashing Continues until 8....
> 
> 
> At this time, the unit clicks again, the standby light recycles and then starts a blink rate of 7 then a pause, 7 and then a pause, etc..etc...
> 
> 
> I've already called Sony, which referred me to the only authorized repair place in my area, which goes straight to voicemail and hasn't called me back.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> What does this "Blink Code" of 7 mean?
> 
> Would be nice If I could tell the repair guy what was wrong so he could order/bring the right parts!
> 
> 
> How long must I wait for the authorized repair place calls me back?
> 
> 
> What other options do I have if any?
> 
> 
> I purchased the TV from B&H Photo, which is a Sony Authorized seller for this unit. So my warranty is good.
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Anyways,
> 
> Lous TV in Tallahassee (GREAT GUY) came out yesterday and replaced the entire bottom "Power/High voltage" board and all of the high voltage wires that come out of the board.
> 
> 
> He then turned the tv on and used a screwdriver to adjust two screws (I assume Potentiometers) on the high voltage "transformer" to adjust my "focus" and called it a day.
> 
> 
> TV worked great while watching tv for about 30 minutes, DVD for 30 minutes, XBox 360 for 45 minutes. I then turned it off and cooked dinner.
> 
> 
> After that, I powered the TV back up and proceeded to watch CSI in HD. A commercial came on and BAM...The TV powered off and flashed the standby light 7 times.
> 
> 
> I freaked, then pressed the power button and the tv came back on.
> 
> 
> It did this about 15 times last night on various channels, inputs.
> 
> 
> The only common denominator is it seems to only power off on high brightness/contrast sources. Such as commercials with bright white backgrounds, Cartoons, etc.
> 
> 
> I have one of the preset modes set to a REALLY dark picture that I like to set it on while we sleep because my wife MUST have the tv on. It never powered down in this mode.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any ideas what it could be?
> 
> 
> When Lou comes back out to fix it, should he use a calibration screen/source/equipment to adjust the "focus" and what ever else he did with the adjustment screws? Or does "eyeballing" it suffice?
> 
> 
> Also the tv has some terrible geometry/size/overscan issues (always had it.) Should Lou be required by Sony to correct this?
> 
> Some examples are:
> 
> -Cut off Logos on the right side of the screen.
> 
> -Slightly cut off menu screens on the left side.
> 
> -Not true straight lines when the tv picture is "pillar boxed"
> 
> -Bottom letter box MUCH larger black area than the top letter box black area.
> 
> 
> I've also noticed (especially on white/light screens) The picture tube has "dotted lines" like this --------------------------------------
> 
> That run horizontally from one side to another in two places, perfectly splitting the screen into thirds. You can only see this up close, but it still worries me.
> 
> 
> It looks kinda like this like this on the TV:
> 
> (Without the "stray" vertical lines that the website keeps trying to insert into my drawing.)
> 
> ___________________
> 
> | |
> 
> | |
> 
> |---------------------------- |
> 
> | |
> 
> | |
> 
> |-----------------------------|
> 
> | |
> 
> |__________________|
> 
> 
> I'm sorry to ask so many questions, but can you guys see if you can explain some of this to me and tell me what I should have Lou do.
> 
> 
> Thank You,
> 
> Michael Hicks.



Every Trinitron tube has those horizontal lines, those hold the tube together.


At first when reading this thread I was worried about the reliabitlity of the set, then I realized you guys are overtly anal about things. This thread is becoming pretty sad in that regard. It is almost as if half the things you guys complain about are imagined in your minds.


----------



## appadv

As this is a public message board, many complaints have been made about the set. Most of us are very sensitive to any imperfections in our TV sets.


Overall, the XBR960 is a very good TV.


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *baller99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Every Trinitron tube has those horizontal lines, those hold the tube together.
> 
> 
> At first when reading this thread I was worried about the reliabitlity of the set, then I realized you guys are overtly anal about things. This thread is becoming pretty sad in that regard. It is almost as if half the things you guys complain about are imagined in your minds.



This is a forum for direct view enthusiasts. What do you expect? "Everything's fine - great set - no need to talk about it?"


No. The folks here are into the why's and how's of their sets. When you start learning these this then you begin noticing what's not working just as you expected. It's cool when you can solve problems on your own. This is the place to learn how to do that.


"Imagined in your minds?" These sets have enough problems - no one needs to go imagining anything.


If this is sad to you then move on, or start a thread of your own that interests you.


----------



## appadv

Has anyone here been to the CRT Projectors forum? They really know about the works of their sets and solve similar problems or correct minor defects.


Again, this is a Direct View Forum, filled with enthusiasts who want to learn about their sets and get the best picture. I am not surprised that most of us find some imperfection with our sets.


----------



## nishant20




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *appadv* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Again, this is a Direct View Forum, filled with enthusiasts who want to learn about their sets and get the best picture. I am not surprised that most of us find some imperfection with our sets.



Your point is well taken, however, I'm not complaining about the set. I LOVE my XBR960... when it's working properly. Again, my reason for posting has to do with Sony support.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nishant20* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> could you please help answer these questions:
> 
> 
> How many times did they replace the TV before they actually sent you something different?
> 
> 
> What TV did they send as a replacement? Is it a Bravia or some other TV or what?
> 
> 
> I'm afraid that since this TV isn't being made anymore they will try to give me an inferior TV or they will try to keep sending refurbs till I tap out in submission.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Nishant


----------



## seti1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *appadv* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As this is a public message board, many complaints have been made about the set. Most of us are very sensitive to any imperfections in our TV sets.
> 
> 
> Overall, the XBR960 is a very good TV.



When it works it is a GREAT TV! If and when you have a problem with it, that's when the fun begins. This is a very complicated TV to repair unlike a typical CRT. Reading various review sites there seems to be a higher failure rate atributed to this model.


I have owned 4 Sony TVs for the last twenty five years. This is the only TV that has ever needed to be repaired. I have had a problem with it since I bought it the first of March and am still waiting to get it "sucessfully" repaired.


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seti1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> When it works it is a GREAT TV! If and when you have a problem with it, that's when the fun begins. This is a very complicated TV to repair unlike a typical CRT. Reading various review sites there seems to be a higher failure rate atributed to this model.
> 
> 
> I have owned 4 Sony TVs for the last twenty five years. This is the only TV that has ever needed to be repaired. I have had a problem with it since I bought it the first of March and am still waiting to get it "sucessfully" repaired.



I have to believe that it's inherently more difficult to design and manufacture hd sets than it was with standard tv sets. HD sets are certianly more complex than standard tvs, especially for users. And I bet the manufacturers and the repair shops were not prepared for the level of service calls being made.


The most serious problem facing manufacturers and end-users is how (larger) hd sets expose the weaknesses of analog signals when it comes to picture quality. Even the most minor flaw in an SD image gets blown-up on an HD set for all to see. People get these sets home and just expect to see HD shows. Even if they realize they need to be able to acquire hd signals, they are unprepared for the degraded PQ of SD material, out of the box. Very few are ever told that if they want decent PQ they're going to have to spring for a calibration disc and spend time making the picture right.


Most end-users are also totally unaware that their new tvs are set-up to look ok in showrooms but possibly awful in a home environment.


IMO, it's these things that are probably causing the phones in dealers and repair shops to be ringing off the hook with complaints and calls for service from new HDTV customers. I bet there's all kinds of folks frustrated as they wait in the repair shop queue. IMHO, I think all new HD sets should be shipped and installed in user's homes by professional installers, like the days of old (late 50's early 60's). It wouldn't have to take too long and the value added would be tremendous. the new sets could be adjusted within probably minutes and any problem sets would be immediately identified and a repair/replacement ticket could be initiated on the spot - making customers feel like they're in good hands. I bet the complaints and repair calls would go way down.


----------



## CR_Client




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *justsc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have to believe that it's inherently more difficult to design and manufacture hd sets than it was with standard tv sets. HD sets are certianly more complex than standard tvs, especially for users. And I bet the manufacturers and the repair shops were not prepared for the level of service calls being made.



It's also inherently more difficult to get a round tube to display an image on a more and more rectangular screen. PQ on a 4:3 screen is much easier to maintain and control than PQ when you start to stretch that to 16:9.


The Information Age is a double-edged sword in this case. On the one hand, manufacturers can take many proactive steps to get information to their customers about potential issues and features of their TVs, but on the other, it's given everyone a voice to ***** about the manufacturers and find more people with the same problems.


Eventually, the technology will mature, but it will take a while before the general public is able to comprehend the capabilities and limitations. I don't expect that to happen for many years after Digital TV replaces Analog.


----------



## LDBecker

I noticed that this issue was raised a few pages back in this thread, but it doesn't seem to have been answered (unless I missed it). Does anyone who has the XBR960 use it with the new Toshiba HD-DVD player? How does it look? What resolution/settings?


I'm considering getting a floor model/demo for a decent price as a stop-gap until a 40" or so 1080p set becomes affordable, and I really like what I've seen in the XBR960.


So, any HD-DVD experience with the 960?


Thanks,


Larry


----------



## RJRSW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LDBecker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I noticed that this issue was raised a few pages back in this thread, but it doesn't seem to have been answered (unless I missed it). Does anyone who has the XBR960 use it with the new Toshiba HD-DVD player? How does it look? What resolution/settings?
> 
> 
> I'm considering getting a floor model/demo for a decent price as a stop-gap until a 40" or so 1080p set becomes affordable, and I really like what I've seen in the XBR960.
> 
> 
> So, any HD-DVD experience with the 960?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Larry



I tried the New HD Toshiba on my 960 via HDMI set at 1080i and the picture was very very good on both HD movies and very good onSD DVD's.


But it was already very good with the Pioneer DVD player I already have and in the end the picture quality difference was just not enough to justify keeping the Toshiba HD DVD and I returned it. I have found no matter what I input into the 960 if the source is decent at all the picture is usually outstanding.


----------



## LDBecker

Thanks, RJRSW, for the input. Which Pioneer DVD player do you use, and do you have it upsampling?

I'll be picking up a Pioneer Elite 79avi on Saturday -- got a deal on it because it has a silver faceplate... Oh, well, nothing matches anyway...


Anyway, I know the 79avi upscales, but I've never even been able to use component inputs on my setup (an old 32" Sony XBR), so upscaling, using component and/or HDMI is pretty exciting... can't wait!


Thanks,


Larry


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seti1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have owned 4 Sony TVs for the last twenty five years. This is the only TV that has ever needed to be repaired. I have had a problem with it since I bought it the first of March and am still waiting to get it "sucessfully" repaired.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *justsc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have to believe that it's inherently more difficult to design and manufacture hd sets than it was with standard tv sets. HD sets are certianly more complex than standard tvs, especially for users. And I bet the manufacturers and the repair shops were not prepared for the level of service calls being made.



Another reason why Sony dumped the line. It was costing them too much in after sale repairs and replacements. If they could have sold it and not have had the issues with proper alignment of the crt, we probably would have seen the line continue.


----------



## hancox




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LDBecker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'll be picking up a Pioneer Elite 79avi on Saturday -- got a deal on it because it has a silver faceplate... Oh, well, nothing matches anyway...





Define "deal" please, especially when talking about the HD-DVD drives in the same breath











(Within reason, given board rules...)


----------



## seti1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *justsc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have to believe that it's inherently more difficult to design and manufacture hd sets than it was with standard tv sets. HD sets are certianly more complex than standard tvs, especially for users. And I bet the manufacturers and the repair shops were not prepared for the level of service calls being made.
> 
> 
> The most serious problem facing manufacturers and end-users is how (larger) hd sets expose the weaknesses of analog signals when it comes to picture quality. Even the most minor flaw in an SD image gets blown-up on an HD set for all to see. People get these sets home and just expect to see HD shows. Even if they realize they need to be able to acquire hd signals, they are unprepared for the degraded PQ of SD material, out of the box. Very few are ever told that if they want decent PQ they're going to have to spring for a calibration disc and spend time making the picture right.
> 
> 
> Most end-users are also totally unaware that their new tvs are set-up to look ok in showrooms but possibly awful in a home environment.



You are correct. When I first got my new XBR960 the picture was not sharp and D** in SD was terrible. A calibration disk got the picture better. But what made the biggest difference was to turn the sharpness setting all the way down. Let the TV upconvert the signal, set DRC to CINEMA. Set the set to NEUTRAL, MONITOR, and turn CLEAR EDGE OFF. My Picture level is a few clicks below the default level in PRO and the brightness a few click above default. Picture mode I use is Wide Zoom.


The picture I get with SD D** is now pretty amazing. Not as good as HDTV, but nothing to complain about. Signal is being fed by a DVR39 with a high quality S-Video cable.


My issues had nothing to do with PQ, as it is absolutely stunning in this regard. The issue I keep having is the TV will turn off by itself after getting warm and put up the 4 Blink Error Code. Sony Authorized Service came out and replaced the DZ board for the 2nd time last evening. I hope this time the 960 will work for a long time without further aggravation. "FINGERS CROSSED"


----------



## seti1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Another reason why Sony dumped the line. It was costing them too much in after sale repairs and replacements. If they could have sold it and not have had the issues with proper alignment of the crt, we probably would have seen the line continue.



Sony is still selling the 955. I was under the impression that it is pretty much the same as the 960 minus the firewire and two year warranty.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seti1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sony is still selling the 955. I was under the impression that it is pretty much the same as the 960 minus the firewire and two year warranty.



Correct.


----------



## LDBecker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hancox* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Define "deal" please, especially when talking about the HD-DVD drives in the same breath
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Within reason, given board rules...)



Within board rules... hmmm... I got the silver Pioneer Elite 79avi for 60% of list price at Magnolia -- I could only get 10% off the black faceplate model.


The 79avi isn't an HD unit, it's an upconverting one. There are lots of those out, but my interest in this one comes because I also have the Pioneer Elite 59txi receiver that uses an i-link connection for SACD and DVD-Audio, both of which I enjoy and NEITHER of which will be supported any time soon by either of the new HD DVD/BLu-ray formats. Grrrrr...


I'm surprised, nay, shocked that there are apparently not many using the new Toshiba HD-DVD player with the 960's. Seems like a good match to me...


I'm waiting to jump on the HD-DVD/Blu-Ray bandwagon for a little while until things shake out -- my first CD player was not a good experience for price or reliability, and I see this as that kind of quantum leap in technology having some similar issues.


Assuming I'll be able to find a good open box/display unit for a good price ($1k or so), I'll need to upgrade my Dish to HD. Way cool...


Larry


----------



## LDBecker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seti1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You are correct. When I first got my new XBR960 the picture was not sharp and D** in SD was terrible. A calibration disk got the picture better. But what made the biggest difference was to turn the sharpness setting all the way down. Let the TV upconvert the signal, set DRC to CINEMA. Set the set to NEUTRAL, MONITOR, and turn CLEAR EDGE OFF. My Picture level is a few clicks below the default level in PRO and the brightness a few click above default. Picture mode I use is Wide Zoom.
> 
> 
> The picture I get with SD D** is now pretty amazing. Not as good as HDTV, but nothing to complain about. Signal is being fed by a DVR39 with a high quality S-Video cable.
> 
> 
> My issues had nothing to do with PQ, as it is absolutely stunning in this regard. The issue I keep having is the TV will turn off by itself after getting warm and put up the 4 Blink Error Code. Sony Authorized Service came out and replaced the DZ board for the 2nd time last evening. I hope this time the 960 will work for a long time without further aggravation. "FINGERS CROSSED"



This is a really helpful post as far as settings and experience with the unit. Letting the 960 upconvert the SD satellite signal sounds like a great idea. Thanks!


Larry


----------



## RJRSW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LDBecker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks, RJRSW, for the input. Which Pioneer DVD player do you use, and do you have it upsampling?



I have the Pioneer DV-656A DVD/DVD-audio player and I have found it works best when I let the TV handle the progressive scan, so I feed it 480i signal instead of 480p done by the player.


----------



## LDBecker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RJRSW* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the Pioneer DV-656A DVD/DVD-audio player and I have found it works best when I let the TV handle the progressive scan, so I feed it 480i signal instead of 480p done by the player.



I'm anxious to see what the XBR960 will do with the Pioneer Elite 79AVI's 1080i output. I bought the 960 today and am having it delivered Tuesday. It's a Feb. 2005 build, and it came with the matching stand for "free." I got the 4 yr extended in home warranty so I should be ok for a while on this set even though it's a floor model. No remote, but they're getting one for me for "free" also.


I was amazed at the quality of just 480p dvd's on this tv -- it's going to be fun experimenting with it. Anyone else send 1080i signals to the 960?


I plan to use the HDMI output from the 79avi dvd player, but I'll also try component -- it would be a LOT more convenient using my Pioneer Elite 59txi receiver to do all the switching. I have to admit I don't understand HDMI and how the audio would work if one used HDMI for the picture and i-link or toslink for sound. Any clarity offered here?


Larry


----------



## seti1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seti1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> My issues had nothing to do with PQ, as it is absolutely stunning in this regard. The issue I keep having is the TV will turn off by itself after getting warm and put up the 4 Blink Error Code. Sony Authorized Service came out and replaced the DZ board for the 2nd time last evening. I hope this time the 960 will work for a long time without further aggravation. "FINGERS CROSSED"



Well, this did not work. Three days later, fade to horizontal white line and the set turns off and the diagnostic LED starts up with the 4 blink code again. It only happens when it is 78- 80 degrees or so in the room, can this set not take the heat? Could someone help me out, and place a thermometer on their set and report the temp after it has been on for a few hours at the hotest part of the day. It seems like it does build up a fair amount of heat coming from the top of the set when the room temp is warm. Or, could the heat be coming from a bad connection or failing component on a circuit board?


Another call to Sony Support and this time they will escalate it to a Tech review level. I will give them one last chance, (This will be the 4th time) that Sony Service comes out to work on my set. It has not been working since the day after we bought it, in the beginning of March. If it happens again after that, it's time for Sony to either find me another 960, or at this point, I would even settle for "WORKING" 955.


This episode has been an excercise in frustration!


----------



## CR_Client




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seti1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It only happens when it is 78- 80 degrees or so in the room, can this set not take the heat?



Is your set in a cabinet, or in open air?


It got warm up here in Iowa a few weeks ago (up to 92), and my house was up in the lower 80's, but I didn't have any problems with my 960 shutting off. I was on bed-rest, though, so I didn't check any temps on the set or anything.


----------



## gigaguy

Mine's in a cabinet and I'm in TX, (read:hot). No problems. It sticks out the back of the cabinet about 3-4" so it gets ventilated. Mine was build date June 05, got it July 05.


For the guy mentioning the Sony Outlet, I thought the Outlet told me all TVs come with same as new warranties. I saw both the 960 and 955 for cheap, cheap, (less than the model #'s!) there a few months ago, but this week the 960 I saw was up $400! still a very good buy IMO.


I've seen 2 960s at Best Buy for the same low price recently. I think there are lots of the 960s available if someone is looking for one.


----------



## CR_Client




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gigaguy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mine's in a cabinet and I'm in TX, (read:hot). No problems. It sticks out the back of the cabinet about 3-4" so it gets ventilated. Mine was build date June 05, got it July 05.



How much room is around the front bezel and the sides?


3-4 inches out the back, where there isn't very much heat, won't do much to ventilate the TV. You need space around the bezel to let heat out the front, which is where it will naturally go.


That said, it might not be heat causing the issue, only exacerbating a different issue. But a tight cabinet is definitely a less-than-ideal setup for a TV, especially in a climate that stays hot year-round.


----------



## LDBecker

So, in preparation for the delivery of the XBR960 about noon today, I was trying to program a new Harmony/Logitech 880 (I have the 676 and will use it in another room with the old tv). The software setup asks A LOT of questions about which inputs to use for which devices (DVD player, vcr, sat receiver, coffee maker, and so on).


I had assumed I would route it all through the receiver (Pioneer Elite 59txi --it CERTAINLY has enough inputs for heaven's sake!), but the process got me thinking that I should maybe just hook all VIDEO directly into descrete inputs on the 960 itself and let the 960 handle upconversion to the appropriate resoltion for the screen.


The Pioneer receiver upconverts inputs -- i.e., it wil upconvert a composite or s-video input and route it through component cables to the 960, but the receiver does nothing with resolution at all . The receiver has no HDMI inputs/outputs, so I plan to route the audio of my Pioneer Elite 79avi dvd player through the i-link connection on the receiver and the video through an HDMI cable directly to the 960.


The 721 Dish satellite receiver that I have and will use with the 960 until the HD 622 receiver comes in 30 days or so, has only a s-video output, so I was thinking I would run s-video into the receiver and component from the receiver to the 960, but the only reason I can think of to do that is to minimize cables (a worthy goal). However, this adds another conversion into the mix.


Should I just run the Dish receiver's s-video directly to the 960 and let the tv do the upresing and not worry about the conversion? I guess the same question applies with the vcr... let the tv handle any upresing from it as well?


So, is the 960 up to the task? It seems that since each input is directly addressable, I could do it that way as well as through the receiver, but why add the extra conversion step? Make sense? What do some of you do for this?


Thanks,


Larry


----------



## Q of BanditZ

Larry, I'm one of these "less is more" guys. Keep the signals as straight and as clean and requiring as few steps as possible. You're exactly right: Why add the extra conversion? You don't need it.



OT: I'm considering that 880 Harmony myself. I notice there's an 890 but I'm not sure about that thing...


----------



## gigaguy

It's an open cabinet, tv has plenty of space to vent. I've had 3 different Sony TVs in it. a 27", 32" and 34". The vents are not on or near the front bezel.


92 is not that hot, electronics run much hotter. My Sony HDTV recorders have temperature gauges, they will shut down at 133, I gets reads from 98 to 123. It's normal operating temps, No problems.


I don't think heat is your issue. sorry you are having set problems.


----------



## CR_Client

Sorry 'bout that, gigaguy, I wasn't paying attention to who was responding to whom. Sounds like your setup isn't causing any heat problems for you, so I have a feeling that seti1 has issues other than heat, like you mentioned.


----------



## gigaguy

I guess in a cabinet is not the ideal but it sure looks better to me.


Sorry your tv is acting up, drag to be having issues with such a heavy TV to move. Would be especially bad for me cause I live down a hill from the street level, so just to get to my front door is a set of stairs, more stairs inside too.

(but the view is worth it).


love my 960 but I'm eyeing the Sony flat panels, but my pocket book says, not yet.


----------



## LDBecker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Larry, I'm one of these "less is more" guys. Keep the signals as straight and as clean and requiring as few steps as possible. You're exactly right: Why add the extra conversion? You don't need it.
> 
> 
> 
> OT: I'm considering that 880 Harmony myself. I notice there's an 890 but I'm not sure about that thing...



Q... can I call you Q? (just kidding). I looked at the 890 my self but it was quite a bit more $$ and added only rf capability. My stuff (currently) isn't behind cabinet doors or out of line-of-sight, so I didn't think I would need rf capability.


I may regret that because both my tv's are Sony and will respond to the same commands (the older one will be in an adjoining room separated by a wall with glass). The two dish receivers (a 721 and upcoming 622 ARE rf both and ir capable, but can be set to use different "languages" to communicate so there won't be a conflict.


As far as straight signal paths, that of course has to be better UNLESS the conversion brings something that you want. The receiver's conversion to component doesn't do much for me and I think I can do with out it, but the XBR960's upresing of the signal is something I really want.


The idea behind using the receiver to do the conversion would make sense if I didn't have enough component inputs on the 960 (I think I do) OR if the receiver offered trouble-free HDMI switching (HAH!) and you then could have one cable from each device to the receiver and one HDMI cable from the receiver to the tv.


Someone saw a prototype of my receiver (Pioneer Elite 59txi) at a show recently with an HDMI upgrade. I had hope for a while that it was going to happen, but I really doubt that Pioneer will do that, or if they do, it will be so expensive that I might as well just upgrade to the next flagship.


This is giving me a headache!


Does this make sense?


Larry


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LDBecker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Q... can I call you Q? (just kidding).














> Quote:
> I looked at the 890 my self but it was quite a bit more $$ and added only rf capability. My stuff (currently) isn't behind cabinet doors or out of line-of-sight, so I didn't think I would need rf capability.
> 
> 
> I may regret that because both my tv's are Sony and will respond to the same commands (the older one will be in an adjoining room separated by a wall with glass). The two dish receivers (a 721 and upcoming 622 ARE rf both and ir capable, but can be set to use different "languages" to communicate so there won't be a conflict.



Good points. I'll have to research a bit further. The 880 seems to be a "sure bet" if nothing else.




> Quote:
> As far as straight signal paths, that of course has to be better UNLESS the conversion brings something that you want. The receiver's conversion to component doesn't do much for me and I think I can do with out it, but the XBR960's upresing of the signal is something I really want.



The XBR960 uprezzes any 480i signal and you have control over that. Either 960i or 540p mode or CineMotion. I prefer CineMotion at all times for the nice 3:2 pulldown it does.



> Quote:
> The idea behind using the receiver to do the conversion would make sense if I didn't have enough component inputs on the 960 (I think I do) OR if the receiver offered trouble-free HDMI switching (HAH!) and you then could have one cable from each device to the receiver and one HDMI cable from the receiver to the tv.



It just depends on how HDMI devices you ultimately will end up with.


For that, I've been eyeing either one of these down the road:

2x1 HDMI 


OR

5x1 HDMI 



> Quote:
> Someone saw a prototype of my receiver (Pioneer Elite 59txi) at a show recently with an HDMI upgrade. I had hope for a while that it was going to happen, but I really doubt that Pioneer will do that, or if they do, it will be so expensive that I might as well just upgrade to the next flagship.



I won't upgrade my receiver again until it dies. That's just the way I am with electronics. The only thing my HK AVR 635 doesn't have is HDMI or DVI switching and I just don't think those things alone are worth the hassle, angst, or expense.


You have an awesome receiver. Why not contact Pioneer directly and see what they say to you?



> Quote:
> This is giving me a headache!
> 
> 
> Does this make sense?
> 
> 
> Larry



I think so.


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Larry, I'm one of these "less is more" guys. Keep the signals as straight and as clean and requiring as few steps as possible. You're exactly right: Why add the extra conversion? You don't need it.
> 
> 
> 
> OT: I'm considering that 880 Harmony myself. I notice there's an 890 but I'm not sure about that thing...



Q,


I got the Harmony 688. It's a great remote and $50 less than the 880. The 688 is especially geared towards DVRs as in my Comcast 6412. I compared them all (except the 890 which wasn't available then) and, for me, the 688 was the winner.


Check it out!


----------



## SurfingMatt27




> Quote:
> I won't upgrade my receiver again until it dies.



HAHA, same here










I'm quite happy with my sony tv and will upgrade when i feel it's time.


----------



## LDBecker

The XBR960, a floor model from Magnolia, was delivered today, and I set it up with my new Pioneer Elite 79avi dvd player using HDMI for the video and i-link for the audio. HOLY COW, this is really nice. I used The Fifth Element as my test disk -- the new deluxe superbit expanded two disk extravagenza version -- and although I've seen the movie many times, it was completely new. Detail, colors, even sound was so much better than anything I've seen. I am impressed! I woud say it's really close to HD-DVD that I've seen. It looks that good.


Not so great is Dish sd material. It needs some help. I've ordered the HD dish upgrade, but it won't be here until the 12th of June, so I'll have to put up with it. I bought an hd off air antenna, but so far am not impressed with the signal quality or stability of the thing. I've got some more tweaking to do. I DID figure out how to get digital sound out of the tv and into my receiver (toslink cable out), and it sounded ok, but the signal wasn't stable.


So, thanks to all who offered advice on this set. Now I've got to sort out the settings -- lots of posts about that here!


Larry


----------



## seti1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gigaguy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It's an open cabinet, tv has plenty of space to vent. I've had 3 different Sony TVs in it. a 27", 32" and 34". The vents are not on or near the front bezel.
> 
> 
> 92 is not that hot, electronics run much hotter. My Sony HDTV recorders have temperature gauges, they will shut down at 133, I gets reads from 98 to 123. It's normal operating temps, No problems.
> 
> 
> I don't think heat is your issue. sorry you are having set problems.



The entire cabinet top over the TV is open. It has room for air to get on all sides. The room temp at the location of the set when off was 84 F.

Placed a thermometer on top of the TV last evening and it read 98 F with the set running for about an hour.


I did place a large 120V Papst Fan at the right side blowing air over the Sony QBox. This is the small Linux computer box located inside the TV. It never shut off last evening with the fan blowing air on it. It will run for hours if the room temp is in the low 70s and never shut of. One thing I would like to try, is blow the Qbox out with a can of compressed air. Maybe there is some dust in there coating some of the components?


Some specs on the Qbox can be found at this link:
http://www.agoraquest.com/viewtopic....18696&forum=25


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LDBecker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So, in preparation for the delivery of the XBR960 about noon today, I was trying to program a new Harmony/Logitech 880 (I have the 676 and will use it in another room with the old tv).
> 
> 
> .....
> 
> So, is the 960 up to the task? It seems that since each input is directly addressable, I could do it that way as well as through the receiver, but why add the extra conversion step?




Not sure you meant it this way or not, but one of the things people wished that the 910/960 had but does not is to have direct addressable access to each input.


For example, you cannot go directly from OTA to HDMI unless you have nothing connected on Inputs 1-6.


It would be nice to be able to input #5 on the remote and be there, but such is not the case.


It sure would make life MUCH easier if you need remotes with macros to execute multiple devices with a single push of a button.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not sure you meant it this way or not, but one of the things people wished that the 910/960 had but does not is to have direct addressable access to each input.
> 
> 
> For example, you cannot go directly from OTA to HDMI unless you have nothing connected on Inputs 1-6.
> 
> 
> It would be nice to be able to input #5 on the remote and be there, but such is not the case.
> 
> 
> It sure would make life MUCH easier if you need remotes with macros to execute multiple devices with a single push of a button.



The Sony remote that came with my HS510 cant' but my Harmony 676 remote is able to select individual inputs without cycling through all unskipped inputs. I would suspect that the 910/960 also has this capability but the Sony oem remote can not make use of it.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LDBecker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I bought an hd off air antenna, but so far am not impressed with the signal quality or stability of the thing. I've got some more tweaking to do.



I've been using an OTA antenna since I got my set in July, 2004. IMHO, this is the way to go, especially if you don't like whatever down-rezing/digital compression your cable or satellite provider will do to the signal. Since broadcasters control the quality all the way to through, you'll provide your set with the best possible signal.


That said, the '960--probably all '960's, but my vintage for sure--are not particularly sensitive. There are newer tuner chipsets available that do a better job in terms of sensitivity.


But if you give your '960 a good, strong OTA signal, you'll have the best picture available for those OTA stations.


Mark


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BTV Mark* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> But if you give your '960 a good, strong OTA signal, you'll have the best picture available for those OTA stations.
> 
> 
> Mark



I can vouch for that. That HD signal at its best is my reference point pretty much. When Blu-Ray comes along and the rest of it, I'd better see PQ at least equal with that.


----------



## LDBecker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not sure you meant it this way or not, but one of the things people wished that the 910/960 had but does not is to have direct addressable access to each input.
> 
> 
> For example, you cannot go directly from OTA to HDMI unless you have nothing connected on Inputs 1-6.
> 
> 
> It would be nice to be able to input #5 on the remote and be there, but such is not the case.
> 
> 
> It sure would make life MUCH easier if you need remotes with macros to execute multiple devices with a single push of a button.



HDTVFanatic, Yikes! That would put a crimp in my plans. I haven't had time to revisit the 880 programming, but if that's the case, I'm in trouble... Right now I have to manually cycle through and select HDMI (Pio 79avi dvd player), s-video (Dish SD sat box), and OTA. I'll spend some time with it tonight to see what I can do with it.


The Harmony setup seems to be able to manually select individual inputs on the 960. It wanted to know which input is being used for which device, and each one is numbered. I'll know for sure by tomorrow.


Larry


----------



## ErikDaRed

The harmony remotes can direct tune video channels on the XBR960. I just purchased one for just that reason (and to coalesce all the remote to one so my Grandmother can at least turn everything on).


----------



## LDBecker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ErikDaRed* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The harmony remotes can direct tune video channels on the XBR960. I just purchased one for just that reason (and to coalesce all the remote to one so my Grandmother can at least turn everything on).



Thanks for the affirmation on that, ErikDR, I'll work on it tonight...


Larry


----------



## ZL1

Sometimes when I start my 960 up it will work fine for a minute then the screen goes black then comes back after a second or 2, just exactly like you hit the button to change through the inputs. It takes a few extra seconds when you are watching OTA for it to come back. And it only takes a sec when you running a Xbox 360. Then its fine for about 20-30 seconds and does it over and over again. Anyone have this problem? When this happens I turn it off, unplug the power to the set and then plug it back in and turn it on and it doesnt do it anymore. Any info on this??


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ErikDaRed* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The harmony remotes can direct tune video channels on the XBR960.



I don't own one, so I am just commenting as an outsider, but I think there may be some confusion here.


There's a difference between (1) being able to tune to a digital or analog video channel (e.g. 4.1, 7.1, 13, etc.) on the XBR960 using the set's ATSC or QAM tuners, and (2) being able to select one of the INPUT1-INPUT7 sources, none of which correspond to "channels". And with (2), can it (a) randomly "direct select" that input, or (b) must cycle sequentially through all available inputs that have not been "skipped" in the setup menu of the XBR960?


So... just because the Harmony remote can do (1), does not necessarily mean it can do (2a). The Sony remote that comes with the XBR960 can only perform the (2b) method, as well as (1) of course. But the Sony remote cannot perform (2a), which is why the pessimism as to whether the Harmony remote can. If the set doesn't support the mechanism, then the remote won't bring about any miracle.



Note: with my previous Sampo 34WHD5 set, the original model of the remote only supported (2b) for that set. And to make it worse, there was no way in its setup menu to actually "skip" an unused input.


However they did come out with a second generation remote which, amazingly, supported (2a) even with the same original unmodified 34WHD5 set. That indicates the capability (i.e. infrared codes) for "direct access" to its inputs was always inherently present in the set's design but simply not implemented in that first generation remote. Apparently, all it took was a smarter remote to make it possible... which they did.


So it may be the same way with the Sony XBR960, or maybe not. We'd all like to know your final results, to tell us whether only (2b) is available with the Harmony or if truly (2a) is also available.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't own one, so I am just commenting as an outsider, but I think there may be some confusion here.
> 
> 
> (2), can it (a) randomly "direct select" that input, or (b) must cycle sequentially through all available inputs that have not been "skipped" in the setup menu of the XBR960?
> 
> 
> So... the Sony remote cannot perform (2a), which is why the pessimism as to whether the Harmony remote can. If the set doesn't support the mechanism, then the remote won't bring about any miracle.
> 
> 
> So it may be the same way with the Sony XBR960, or maybe not. We'd all like to know your final results, to tell us whether only (2b) is available with the Harmony or if truly (2a) is also available.



My Harmony 676 remote can do (2a) with my Sony KV34HS510. Discrete selection of inputs. Absolutely, positively. My Sony OEM remote can not do (2a).


BTW, the Harmony remotes are "activity based". As an example, I push a button for Watch Cable TV and the remote turns on the HS510 and selects the correct input, and turns on the cable STB. It does not require cycling through inputs. I currently have eleven activities set up and I love my Harmony


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Sony remote that came with my HS510 cant' but my Harmony 676 remote is able to select individual inputs without cycling through all unskipped inputs. I would suspect that the 910/960 also has this capability but the Sony oem remote can not make use of it.



Really????


I have an iPronto coming this weekend and this would be the BEST NEWS I've heard this year!!!!


How does one access the individual inputs?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ErikDaRed* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The harmony remotes can direct tune video channels on the XBR960. I just purchased one for just that reason (and to coalesce all the remote to one so my Grandmother can at least turn everything on).



W00T!


I'm doing the happy dance!!!!!!


----------



## MJM3000

Okay, okay, I know this is going to sound like a million other people posing similar questions on various threads, but I suppose these type of questions are simply for reinforcement.


I'm in the process of buying my first HDTV, and I narrowed it down to either this 960 tube set, or a 50" Panasonic Plasma. I can still get the 960 brand new. I understand there's a big discrepancy in screen size (16 inches), but I've always been a CRT guy, so its been tougher than I thought pulling the trigger on the plasma. I'll also be buying a receiver and speakers to set-up, so I'm basically starting from scratch.


I assume the vast majority of you believe the 960 blows away a plasma, and is clearly the winner as far as PQ goes? I'm so tired of putting off this decision, but I guess I want to hear from 960 owners (pro or con) if buying this set is still a good idea, or maybe you'd get the 50" plasma if you were just now buying, as opposed to a year or two ago. Please let me know your thoughts.


----------



## williamtassone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KING MJM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I assume the vast majority of you believe the 960 blows away a plasma, and is clearly the winner as far as PQ goes?.



you'd be right.


My mates bought plasma and after they saw my 910 were visably devastated.


The extra inches aint worth the loss of quality for most videophiles.


Yes there are problems with the 960 such as geometry issues but usually they can be fixed either by yourself or an ISF calibration (better). How are u going to fix dead pixels and burn in ?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KING MJM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I assume the vast majority of you believe the 960 blows away a plasma, and is clearly the winner as far as PQ goes? I'm so tired of putting off this decision, but I guess I want to hear from 960 owners (pro or con) if buying this set is still a good idea, or maybe you'd get the 50" plasma if you were just now buying, as opposed to a year or two ago.



Probably the biggest factor is just how far away are you planning on watching your HDTV from. The difference in screen size for the choice you've proposed is quite dramatic, and planned viewing distance is significant in terms of how much enjoyment you will get from your acquisition.


The 34XBR960 picture quality is truly stunning, astonishing, jaw-dropping... you name it. Unlike anything else in its reality, clarity, 3D-likeness, and overall WOW factor. But you need to ideally be sitting no further than 5-7' away, with closer the better. If you are going to be sitting back at 10' or more, the 34" screen is going to be disappointing in terms of impact. It will just seem too small and not really provide HDTV pow!


So first, where will you be sitting? Then we can talk XBR960 vs. anything else in terms of picture quality.


----------



## ErikDaRed

Just to reiterate, 2a is supported by harmony on the XBR960, even though 2b is all that is supported by the Sony OEM remote. And it is much nicer not having to scroll through all the inputs just to go back one.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KING MJM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Okay, okay, I know this is going to sound like a million other people posing similar questions on various threads, but I suppose these type of questions are simply for reinforcement.
> 
> 
> I'm in the process of buying my first HDTV, and I narrowed it down to either this 960 tube set, or a 50" Panasonic Plasma. I can still get the 960 brand new. I understand there's a big discrepancy in screen size (16 inches), but I've always been a CRT guy, so its been tougher than I thought pulling the trigger on the plasma. I'll also be buying a receiver and speakers to set-up, so I'm basically starting from scratch.
> 
> 
> I assume the vast majority of you believe the 960 blows away a plasma, and is clearly the winner as far as PQ goes? I'm so tired of putting off this decision, but I guess I want to hear from 960 owners (pro or con) if buying this set is still a good idea, or maybe you'd get the 50" plasma if you were just now buying, as opposed to a year or two ago. Please let me know your thoughts.



All we can add besides size not being the issue is burn-in. Even Crutchfield suggests an alternate type set should one watch lots of news and sporting events which display tickers and scores. If you just want the best picture quality, then go with the 960 (while you still can!).


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KING MJM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ...I assume the vast majority of you believe the 960 blows away a plasma, and is clearly the winner as far as PQ goes? I'm so tired of putting off this decision, but I guess I want to hear from 960 owners (pro or con) if buying this set is still a good idea, or maybe you'd get the 50" plasma if you were just now buying, as opposed to a year or two ago. Please let me know your thoughts.



I recently helped a buddy pick out a new HD set. He was looking at about a 50" tv to hang on the wall in his family room. I recommended he go with Plasma as it can look very, very good, and IMHO is the closest technology to crt. We both work in flight simulation and are very familiar with displays.


We narrowed our search down to a 50" Panasonic plasma, and a 50" model from Samsung, both selling for $3,999. These sets were remarkable. Then my buddy noticed a 45" Sharp Aquos 1080p LCD set. I have to admit, it was gorgeous. And the off-axis viewing was better than I had ever seen with an LCD set. With the 1080p resolution, you could watch from very close and not notice the artifacts that usually accompany these kind of sets. This was especially important, as the closer one can sit, the more "cinematic" the experience. Well, he was sold on the Sharp set. I ran the HQV Benchmark DVD and it performed as well as any of the Plasma set, as also as well as any crt sets. It obviously doesn't have black levels quite as good as crt, but it was darned close.


Since you are looking at the 50" Panasonic, as we did, you might also give the Sharp 45" 1080o set a look. The benefit is that it has multiple digital inputs and it makes one heck of a computer monitor. I hooked-up my 17" Apple PowerBook using DVI cables and it was stunning.


I am an ardent crt fan, and have my own 34" Sony set, but there are plasma and lcd sets out there that are knocking hard on the door to best picture quality.


----------



## gtolbert

I have searched this tread, but I don't seem to find anything about my problem. I have a two month old 34XBR960N. It has a low hum or buzz inside the tv. At first I thought ground loop problem, but the noise is not in the speakers. I disconnected everything and muted and turn off the speakers, but the hum is still there. It sound just like the low hum of a florescent light. I thought maybe the picture tube is humming and this is the way all of them are, but it is just enough to annoy me. Does anyone else have this in their set or have I got a problem?


----------



## fred33

Well, after THREE weeks of bs, I got my Tv back today...I was told a new module was put in..........the problem is NOT fixed. Geometry problems are obvious...curved lines in the menu and on receptions...........sheesh...




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Make them believe you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't take no for an answer. Don't let them leave that house until things are 100 percent to your satisfaction.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

Anyone know which Sony Remote code set the 34XBR960 uses?


----------



## seti1

I would like to see a Poll on how many people that actually own this set have had to have it serviced. After reading the Cnet reviews it looks like the QC on the 960 is pretty bad.


Mine is being picked up for the fourth repair on Tuesday. If it breaks again, Sony can have it back. At that point I don't know what to get. It will be between a 34" 955 or a 970. If I could get Sony to refund my money, I would end up buying the 34" Panasonic. This has been a most frustrating purchase.


----------



## gigaguy

My 960 is almost a year old, (June 05 build) no problems, plus I keep it in a cabinet and have numerous power outages where I live. the most recent outage was for 4 days. Mine seems very rugged and I've very happy with the picture.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

Anyone here know is there a direct access code for the ANT button over the #2 on the OEM Remote?


It's a toggle between the OTA and the Cable Input.


Trying to find a way to call each direct for an aftermarket remote.


Thanks!


----------



## lzzy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seti1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would like to see a Poll on how many people that actually own this set have had to have it serviced. After reading the Cnet reviews it looks like the QC on the 960 is pretty bad.
> 
> 
> Mine is being picked up for the fourth repair on Tuesday. If it breaks again, Sony can have it back. At that point I don't know what to get. It will be between a 34" 955 or a 970. If I could get Sony to refund my money, I would end up buying the 34" Panasonic. This has been a most frustrating purchase.




You're not going to get accurate data when you ask that question on a forum that has an unusual amount of people that joined because they were already having problems with their set. You'd be better off calling sony and asking for that data. Good Luck.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Trying to find a way to call each direct for an aftermarket remote.



Well, according to the earlier post, ErikDaRed should know the details... having apparently programmed the Harmony as you are similarly trying to do.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ErikDaRed* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just to reiterate, 2a is supported by harmony on the XBR960, even though 2b is all that is supported by the Sony OEM remote. And it is much nicer not having to scroll through all the inputs just to go back one.



Erik?


----------



## williamtassone

Guys

For those of you who have more money than Art Sonneborn why not grab the Made in Japan XBR 960's ? They have northern hemisphere tubes and work a charm in the US. Sold in Japan and Sony Dubai. Of course the freight + insurance would rival your mortgage.


Seriously though our experience in Australia regarding the 910 +960 is positive. The ones that get sent back are usually bogus tube replacements that never happened. The forums here rarely report failures in our Japanese made XBR's.


Too much Tequila on the Mexican production line???










Will


----------



## seti1

My last XBR made in Japan was built in 85 and lasted 18 years before it went poof. I got my money out of it for sure!


----------



## williamtassone

was it straight before it turned to the dark side?


----------



## Mathesar

I have a 20" Sony (non-xbr) with a manufacture date of 1989 that was made in Mexico (I thought it was Japan but just verified recently) Anyhow it still works to this day and has never been serviced. It just has a slow warmup period ,picture has a reddish tint for the first 5 minutes but then looks suprisingly good for a TV this old.


My 3 year old Sony 32HS510 hdtv (mexico) is still going strong and never been serviced ,and my 3 month old XBR960 (mexico) is working fine so far.


----------



## cardioman

I have many Sony products, a 27" and 61" Tv both over 14 yrs old and have pix as good as when I bought them. My XBR960 is 4 months old and is great, even geometry issues are very minimal. It has a stunning picture in Both HD and STD.


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seti1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would like to see a Poll on how many people that actually own this set have had to have it serviced. After reading the Cnet reviews it looks like the QC on the 960 is pretty bad.
> 
> 
> Mine is being picked up for the fourth repair on Tuesday. If it breaks again, Sony can have it back. At that point I don't know what to get. It will be between a 34" 955 or a 970. If I could get Sony to refund my money, I would end up buying the 34" Panasonic. This has been a most frustrating purchase.



You've hung in there much longer than I would have. I admire your patience.


This is just me thinking outloud, for whatever it's worth...


Assuming Sony can repair your 960, how comfortable are you really going to be with it long term? I'm talking about "warm Fuzzies" type of comfort. What I'm thinking is, why not just exchange it right now for a 970 and get some cash back for the difference in cost? We have yet to hear about any problems with the 970s. The HS420, the 970's precursor, has had relatively few complaints to date, nowhere near the level of the 960. You've hung in there admirably, but are you prepared to go the distance with the 960?


Like I said, just thinking outloud. Best of Luck!


----------



## gigaguy

I wouldn't tolerate another bigazz heavy tube if it didn't present the picture the 960 does. I've seen the 970 and it ain't no 960.


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gigaguy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I wouldn't tolerate another bigazz heavy tube if it didn't present the picture the 960 does. I've seen the 970 and it ain't no 960.



This is true.


But, the 970 is now the best 34" crt set currently in production. And, by all accounts, the 970 enjoys the same PQ as the HS420, which makes it one fine HD set.


----------



## ErikDaRed




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, according to the earlier post, ErikDaRed should know the details... having apparently programmed the Harmony as you are similarly trying to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Erik?



Unfortunately I don't know the black magic that Harmony uses, it just automatically sets it up using its configuration files.


However, if you know someone with a Harmony remote, you should be able to temporarily set it up for th 960 and teach any decent universal remote using the IR signal.


----------



## seti1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *justsc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You've hung in there much longer than I would have. I admire your patience.
> 
> 
> This is just me thinking outloud, for whatever it's worth...
> 
> 
> Assuming Sony can repair your 960, how comfortable are you really going to be with it long term? I'm talking about "warm Fuzzies" type of comfort. What I'm thinking is, why not just exchange it right now for a 970 and get some cash back for the difference in cost? We have yet to hear about any problems with the 970s. The HS420, the 970's precursor, has had relatively few complaints to date, nowhere near the level of the 960. You've hung in there admirably, but are you prepared to go the distance with the 960?
> 
> 
> Like I said, just thinking outloud. Best of Luck!




The reason I am willing to have another go at repairing my 960N is when it works it is really nice. The PQ is picture perfect as far as I can tell. The company that is picking the set up tomorrow is supposedly the best repair outfit in the area. A Sony supervisor kindly agreed to extend my warranty by another 6 months if it get's repaired this time around. I really would prefer to keep my 960 instead of Sony finding me another refurbished 960 which could have worse issues. This happened with a Dell notebook once. Each screen they came out to replace, was worse then the previous one. Finally shipped it back and bought a Thinkpad.


Actually, I did have an opportunity to play with the 970 the other day. When I changed the settings similar to the 960 it looked pretty good. It was not quite as good as the 960 but it was not that bad either.


I really do hope I get my 960 back and it will work fine. If it goes out again, this is the end of the road for me. I will ask for a "NEW" 970 and a 5 year extended warranty.


----------



## williamtassone

but you can't exploit the 1080i from bluray with a 970


----------



## SurfingMatt27




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seti1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The reason I am willing to have another go at repairing my 960N is when it works it is really nice. The PQ is picture perfect as far as I can tell. The company that is picking the set up tomorrow is supposedly the best repair outfit in the area. A Sony supervisor kindly agreed to extend my warranty by another 6 months if it get's repaired this time around. I really would prefer to keep my 960 instead of Sony finding me another refurbished 960 which could have worse issues. This happened with a Dell notebook once. Each screen they came out to replace, was worse then the previous one. Finally shipped it back and bought a Thinkpad.
> 
> 
> Actually, I did have an opportunity to play with the 970 the other day. When I changed the settings similar to the 960 it looked pretty good. It was not quite as good as the 960 but it was not that bad either.
> 
> 
> I really do hope I get my 960 back and it will work fine. If it goes out again, this is the end of the road for me. I will ask for a "NEW" 970 and a 5 year extended warranty.



Just as an FYI the 34" 34XS955 has the super fine pitch tube also and if you can find one i would consider that over the xbr960 since these xs955 sets seem to have lessissues or none at all for that matter since i never heard of anybody posting issues about them yet.


My cousin Kevin owns the 34" 34XS955 and it is a great tv!


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, according to the earlier post, ErikDaRed should know the details... having apparently programmed the Harmony as you are similarly trying to do.



Actually I found a .ccf file for a Sony Wega on RemoteCentral that had the input codes so i was able to import those - and this is a Philips iPronto - not a Harmony. I did not realize I was forced to be a graphics designer to set this up










Anyway, the real last remaining question for you Harmony users (Again if I had one, I would not be asking this question







) does the Harmony have discrete codes for the ANT toggle (above the #2) that toggles between cable input on the 960 and the OTA input on the 960?


That's the last remaining piece of the puzzle for the TV....and I do not know if discrete codes exist for this - as they do for the inputs.


----------



## seti1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *williamtassone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> but you can't exploit the 1080i from bluray with a 970



This is from the specs of the 970:


Specifications

Video

XDS (Extended Data Service): (Info Banner): Yes

Program Palette Presets : Vivid, Standard, Movie, Pro

Dynamic Focus Circuitry : Yes

Magnetic Quadra Pole : Yes

Tuner: NTSC, ATSC, 8VSB with Clear QAM

Vertical Center : Yes

Vertical Size : Yes

Screen or Display Technology: Trinitron® Technology

Video Signal System: ATSC and NTSC

Auto White Balance: Yes

Dynamic Picture Processor Circuitry: Yes

Trinitone® Color Temperature: Yes

Vertical Compression: Yes

Comb Filter: 3D Digital Comb Filter

Vertical Aperture Compensation: Yes

Screen Modes (16:9: Normal/Full/Zoom/Wide Zoom

ClearEdge VM Technology: Yes

DRC® MultiFunction Circuitry

Vertical Correction: Yes

Color System: NTSC


Audio

Speakers (Total): 2

Dolby® Digital: Yes

Audio Power Output: 20W Total (10W x 2)

Tone Control(s): Treble and Bass

Speaker Type: 2-Way Speaker System

Steady Sound® Automatic Volume Control: Yes (with BBE)


General

Aspect Ratio: 16:9

Screen Size: 34"1

Tilt Correction: Yes


Convenience

Auto SAP: Yes

Channel Fix: Yes

Closed Caption (CC): Yes

Video Label: Yes

ID1 Detection: Yes

Channel Label: Yes

Channel Skip/Add: Yes

Channel Jump: Yes

Favorite Channel: Yes

Speed Surf Channel Selection: Yes

Auto Channel Programming: Yes

Multiple Language Display: English; Spanish; French

Programmable Timer: 2 Event

Sleep Timer: 15, 30, 45, 60, 90, Off

Caption Vision: Yes

Clock: Yes

Parental Control (V-Chip): Yes


Inputs and Outputs

Analog Audio Input(s): 3 (1 Front/2 Rear)

Component Video (Y/Pb/Pr ) Input(s): 2 (Rear) 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i***


So it does show at 1080i same as the 960.


I agree, the 34" 955 would be a better choice if they are still available.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *williamtassone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> but you can't exploit the 1080i from bluray with a 970




Sure ya can. A true HD source will look good on any of these TV's. Yes, the XS series and XBR960 would be the best choices, but the rebadged HS420 that the XBR970 is certainly will do a very respectable job nonetheless.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Actually I found a .ccf file for a Sony Wega on RemoteCentral...



I'ld love the link to the .ccf, please.


----------



## christophersj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seti1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would like to see a Poll on how many people that actually own this set have had to have it serviced. After reading the Cnet reviews it looks like the QC on the 960 is pretty bad.
> 
> 
> Mine is being picked up for the fourth repair on Tuesday. If it breaks again, Sony can have it back. At that point I don't know what to get. It will be between a 34" 955 or a 970. If I could get Sony to refund my money, I would end up buying the 34" Panasonic. This has been a most frustrating purchase.



A very happy 960N owner here. No problems out of the ordinary. I DO want to learn how to make the RGB convergence better (where the white text has some blue or red blooming in one section of the screen). So Im reading the Service Menu thread here at AVS forums.


But other than that, its great and looks better than almost all of those flat panels.


-Christopher


----------



## seti1

Well they picked up the 960N up to take it into the shop for what I hope is it's final repair. I was not home at the time. My wife told me the two guys that came to pick it up had to set it down 3 times. I warned them it was heavy, just glad it was not me. LOL


I hope this is the end my 960N overheat "4" blink issue. Will keep you up to date when they figure out what the problem was and it's back in one piece.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'ld love the link to the .ccf, please.



You need a .ccf or an .icf?


The ccf is here. 


I found an .icf that had Input 4-7 from a Grand Wega. I then found this .ccf from Guy who has several Sonys and it had all 7 inputs for the Sony - though if you need a color or .icf, this wont be that pretty.


Again, I just cut the sony section out and linked my buttons to these codes in the script.


Now, PLEASE, someone tell me if they have a discrete code for switching between cable input and OTA antenna inpute










I just want to know if it exists at this point.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I then found this .ccf from Guy who has several Sonys and it had all 7 inputs for the Sony



Thanks for the tip.


The page description only lists Sony codes as being for a projector and a DVD player, but perhaps there are other Sony-specific codes buried inside.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tip.
> 
> 
> The page description only lists Sony codes as being for a projector and a DVD player, but perhaps there are other Sony-specific codes buried inside.



The codes work for this Sony and has the discrete inputs. The Sony Wega was in the icf file and I guess unless you have an iPronto, that will not help you.


As I didn't have the projector or the Wega, I didn't pay exacting attention to which was in which ccf file and which was in the icf.


I just knew they worked for this unit - thus they should all work between the KV-34XBR960, the Wega and the the Projector. Thus, if you have the 960 or the Wega, that ccf file should work for both.


For obvious reasons, the .icf file is much prettier than that .ccf file.


The .ccf file has 4 pages. The page with inputs is this one:

 


You will notice Input buttons for 1 through 6. Again, all 4 pages of this works with the 960. I am sure another one of the many Sony .ccf would have the input 7 code that could be linked to or merged.


The Grand Wega has the same codes and the .icf file looks like this:

 


Upon experimenting, I found that the 4 inputs he has listed are input 4 -7 on the 960. Input 7 is the DirectvHD button. From the top, its Input 5, 7, 6, 4. I simply moved them around and added more inputs (for 1-4) linking them to the appropiate code in the above .ccf.


Thus in the very first rough layout of the screen with all 7 Inputs and still waiting on the last pieces to the puzzle before I do the final arranging, it ends up like this:

 


Obviously I will get rid of the memory stick button and add the ilink etc, before re-arranging and finalizing it.


----------



## seti1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *seti1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well they picked up the 960N up to take it into the shop for what I hope is it's final repair. I was not home at the time. My wife told me the two guys that came to pick it up had to set it down 3 times. I warned them it was heavy, just glad it was not me. LOL
> 
> 
> I hope this is the end my 960N overheat "4" blink issue. Will keep you up to date when they figure out what the problem was and it's back in one piece.



Got my XBR960N today in less than twenty four hours. That's the fastest service yet. The tech told me it had a stripped out heatsink for the 9Volt regulator on the AZ board. He replaced the heatsink and also replaced the regulator. Won't know for sure till temp gets back in the 90s. I do feel pretty confident it's been fixed.

I'm just happy my 960 is back and so far working great.


----------



## williamtassone

This time place a ring of garlic around it


----------



## BobsUsedGimmick

Before I start a new thread asking about this I'll ask here.

I found an open box 960 and have basically convinced myself to buy it, I haven't purchased it yet though. The issue I see is it doesn't have a remote or booklet. The person said he'd give me one of the remotes to another sony tv, most likely a 970, since they all tend to work with sony tv's. I can test that out at the store before I buy it, but I know the 960 has a lot of extra stuff that the 970 has no access to. What I want to know is if I can get the 960 remote somehow, and if no, what am I missing out on. The main reason I want the set is the picture quality and not the extras. I've had tv's with Picture in Picture before and I never used it, and I doubt I'll use the spot for the memory stick though you never know.

Is there a way for me to generally check how old a tv is based on its model number. EX. XBR960N about 1 year old, XBR960(x) = ? old.

I just realized I didn't check to see what type of 960 it was. I'll definately have to check the back for the model number before I get it. Since I forgot to check and won't be able to until Tuesday I'm going to ask one more question. Do all 960's support HDMI?

Thanks for your help.


----------



## gigaguy

Sony parts sells the remote. $34 . 1-800-488-SONY (7669). ebay too same price - RM-Y201

yes HDMI input.

Date of manufacture is stamped on the back.


----------



## BobsUsedGimmick

Sorry, about my long question I just found this in the sony Store.

147882111 REMOTE COMMANDER RM-Y201 when I looked at 960 stuff. Oh, and sorry to whoever private messaged me, I had my pop up blocker on and it wouldn't let me accept. I'll try researching the remote more before I ask any more questions that I could answer with a five minute web search.


----------



## Chorgey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BobsUsedGimmick* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there a way for me to generally check how old a tv is based on its model number. EX. XBR960N about 1 year old, XBR960(x) = ? old.
> 
> I just realized I didn't check to see what type of 960 it was. I'll definately have to check the back for the model number before I get it. Since I forgot to check and won't be able to until Tuesday I'm going to ask one more question. Do all 960's support HDMI?
> 
> Thanks for your help.



I own a XBR960 with a date of September 2005, although I purchased it in January of 2006.


The manual can be located at http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/mod...mdl=KD34XBR960 


Yes, HDMI on both models XBR960 and XBR960N


----------



## gigaguy

The PM was from me, you can still get private messages with a pop up blocker, just don't click the popup little window, click the direct link for Messages on the forum page at top.


----------



## LDBecker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BobsUsedGimmick* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Before I start a new thread asking about this I'll ask here.
> 
> I found an open box 960 and have basically convinced myself to buy it, I haven't purchased it yet though. The issue I see is it doesn't have a remote or booklet. The person said he'd give me one of the remotes to another sony tv, most likely a 970, since they all tend to work with sony tv's. I can test that out at the store before I buy it, but I know the 960 has a lot of extra stuff that the 970 has no access to. What I want to know is if I can get the 960 remote somehow, and if no, what am I missing out on. The main reason I want the set is the picture quality and not the extras. I've had tv's with Picture in Picture before and I never used it, and I doubt I'll use the spot for the memory stick though you never know.
> 
> Is there a way for me to generally check how old a tv is based on its model number. EX. XBR960N about 1 year old, XBR960(x) = ? old.
> 
> I just realized I didn't check to see what type of 960 it was. I'll definately have to check the back for the model number before I get it. Since I forgot to check and won't be able to until Tuesday I'm going to ask one more question. Do all 960's support HDMI?
> 
> Thanks for your help.



Most of the questions have been answered already... I bought my openbox 960 from Magnolia, and they ordered a new remote for me at no cost since the one for it was missing. Best Buy had an openbox 960, too, and said if I bought their extended warranty, I could get a free remote through that.


Also, Magnolia had the Sony stand for the 960 and I got it for free. The 960 is REALLY HEAVY, and you'll want a pretty decent stand to keep it safely supported.


I think the "N" model is newer and has the antiglare coating removed (per Chorgey's correction). I'm not sure if the electronics have been changed. Mine is a non-N, and is Feb. 05.


I have my 960 hooked to my dvd player through the HDMI port and it's a really nice picture.


If you can, make sure to check the picture on it to verify that there are no problems.


Larry


----------



## Chorgey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LDBecker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think the "N" model is newer and has an antiglare coating of some sort on the tube. Mine is a non-N, and is Feb. 05.
> 
> 
> Larry



Actually, the "N" model had the antiglare coating removed and yes, it is the newer model.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chorgey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Actually, the "N" model had the antiglare coating removed and yes, it is the newer model.



Footnote: As a matter of personal preference, some people prefer the coating, others do not, but not a night and day difference to be concerned about it any respect.


----------



## BobsUsedGimmick

Man, everyone here is so helpful. I didn't even get snapped at when I asked a question easily answered by googling for it. Thanks everyone. I've had to return to hdtv's so far because of issues displaying hd pictures, what are the odds, but it wasn't user error. So i before I lug another 200lb tv up three flights of stairs I'm going to check out the picture really well. It wasn't hooked up to an hd signal, but I talked with the salesman and he's cool with me bringing in my 360 to hook up to it.


----------



## jehnubis

I have two questions for you guys


1.) Anyone know where i can get a good stand for these 200 lbs crt t.v's? Those sony stands are way too expensive. How about making a home made stand? Can anyone give me advise on the right supplies to build one?


2.) My local bestbuy is having a clearence sale on the xbr960. Would you guys purchase the open box or a new one? How good is best buy service plan? If this t.v fails or has problems in the future will they fix the problem?


How is buying a t.v from an online retailer? Are they trustworthy? Do these online retailers also carry service plans? If the t.v fails or has problems in the future who will fix the t.v?


Well, i am deciding between these........Sony 34xbr960, Sony 34xs955, Sony 30xs955, Sony 30hs420, Sony 32hs420 and if all else fails i am just going to get a brand new Samsung Slimfit 3082h.


----------



## LDBecker

Hi, jehnubis,

Where are you? I got mine from Magnolia in Torrance, CA, and they threw in the Sony stand AND replaced the missing remote all for the same price that Best Buy had it for. I didn't like the gray plastic stand, but I veneered it, painted the base, and it looks ok, I think.


I've been a woodworker for a few years and I'd be hesitant to build a stand for these beasties. Even the Sony stand isn't too strong -- you can't really move the thing once it's on the stand because the stand won't take pulling and shoving. Of course, I loaded it down with over 100 lbs of receiver, dvd player, sat receiver and surge protector, so that's like 320 plus lbs of stuff on that plastic and mdf stand. I think it's stable, but not really movable.


I'd hate to think of what one of these would look like after shipping. As far as I can tell, there really aren't any new ones out there and that means they'd have to pack it in something other than the original box. Ick...


If you go with a 960 and it works, it's great. I suggest that you check it before you buy -- which you can't do through the internet. I got a 4 yr service plan through Magnolia ($150), so I think I'm set for a while.


Good luck!

Larry


----------



## gigaguy

I'd avoid the Samsumg Slimfit. such a disappointment after viewing one of the Sony Fine Pitch tubes, I have a 960. I see 960s at a few local stores as clearance items. I ordered mine online a year ago and have no regrets.


----------



## justsc

The newest SlimFit model, the 3082, is getting much, much better reviews than the earlier models. There's no question that the 960 is a fine tv, but the Sony's w/o the SFP tube, and the other makes (e.g. Samsung) all look incredible as well.


----------



## mku917

I need help. I'm looking at buying a 960 floor model but I have some concerns. I've tried researching this as much as possible before I finally gave up and asked you guys. I read a thread here that said buying a floor model is risky etc. I know that theres risks and that you can check the service menu to see if there are any problems with the set. I called the parts dept. at Sony to ask if you are able to buy a picture tube replacement and they said you could for close to $900. I also asked the Sony rep. how long they would sell the replacement and she didn't know. I wonder if the tube replacement would be available 5 to 8 years from now and not cost twice as much down the line. I know that the floor model could eventually give out so I would get a 5 year warranty through tweeter. If I were to buy the thing and it gives out and they try to give me that 970 or a $900 TV it won't be pretty. Some other guy said in a thread that the set would have degraded in picture quality from being on so long like the geometry or something. I refuse to buy the 970 because its just not the same without SFP. Its just common since I don't need proof. People say that theres a slight difference which is enough for me to say nope. The people that say theres no difference are just gullible. Those Sony guys done messed with the set man! Whats up with that? Imposter!


I've always wanted a 960 since way back in the day when it was the 910 and now I can afford the floor model but is it worth it. I think it might be but I'm just not sure.


----------



## narcispy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mku917* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I need help. I'm looking at buying a 960 floor model but I have some concerns. I've tried researching this as much as possible before I finally gave up and asked you guys. I read a thread here that said buying a floor model is risky etc. I know that theres risks and that you can check the service menu to see if there are any problems with the set. I called the parts dept. at Sony to ask if you are able to buy a picture tube replacement and they said you could for close to $900. I also asked the Sony rep. how long they would sell the replacement and she didn't know. I wonder if the tube replacement would be available 5 to 8 years from now and not cost twice as much down the line. I know that the floor model could eventually give out so I would get a 5 year warranty through tweeter. If I were to buy the thing and it gives out and they try to give me that 970 or a $900 TV it won't be pretty. Some other guy said in a thread that the set would have degraded in picture quality from being on so long like the geometry or something. I refuse to buy the 970 because its just not the same without SFP. Its just common since I don't need proof. People say that theres a slight difference which is enough for me to say nope. The people that say theres no difference are just gullible. Those Sony guys done messed with the set man! Whats up with that? Imposter!
> 
> 
> I've always wanted a 960 since way back in the day when it was the 910 and now I can afford the floor model but is it worth it. I think it might be but I'm just not sure.



Well I bought a 960 floor model about 2 weeks ago and I absolutely love it, the only thing wrong with it is a deep stratch on the front of the unit but it's hardly noticeable unless you look close up, the image quality is outstanding, I'm still trying to figure out how to get the dvd's to look better and I guess I'll have to get an upconvert player for that.


----------



## narcispy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jehnubis* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have two questions for you guys
> 
> 
> 1.) Anyone know where i can get a good stand for these 200 lbs crt t.v's? Those sony stands are way too expensive. How about making a home made stand? Can anyone give me advise on the right supplies to build one?



Actually I'm very glad to say that I went to Walmart of all places and bought the HomeTrends (Powell 988-954) stand that has 2 black shelves and a glass center shelf with silver legs and it fits the tv perfectly and it was only $79.99, really the best deal on a stand I have seen and it holds it really well.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jehnubis* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, i am deciding between these........Sony 34xbr960, Sony 34xs955, Sony 30xs955, Sony 30hs420, Sony 32hs420 and if all else fails i am just going to get a brand new Samsung Slimfit 3082h.



I have the 960 and the 30xs955 and am very happy with both.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mku917* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I need help. I'm looking at buying a 960 floor model but I have some concerns. I've tried researching this as much as possible before I finally gave up and asked you guys. I read a thread here that said buying a floor model is risky etc........end



I have had my 960 since August 2004. Actually, had it replaced in December 2004.


It has been on 24/7 and literally never is turned off.


I am 1000% sure it has been on 2x as long as any floor models.


So what?


Quite frankly, especially as replacements would be hard to find, I would take the floor model over the NIB any day of the week. At least you can see what is wrong with the geometry of the TV before it comes out in the box and if it's really bad, take a pass.


Of course, I was the only one 2 years ago with the 910 and early 960s telling people to quit sending them back and let a tech try and set up the geometry right in your viewing room - while others wanted them perfect out of the box. Guess what, it didn't happen.


So, I would take the Showroom set that can be examined over a NIB especially at this stage in its life cycle any day of the week. Besides, the apeture grill failure this set is known for isnt going to happen out of the box but after some use. You might as well have it broken in at Best Buy.


Again, if its scratched or has burn in, then its a different story. But in most cases, especially Tweeter, they went out of their way to find one with proper geometry for display.


----------



## seti1

The 970 if properly set up is not that bad. It would be a close second choice if the 960 was no longer available. IMO the picture difference between the two sets would be less noticible at 7-10 feet viewing distance. It really is not a bad set, just less features for less $$$.


----------



## DJF(NJ)

I think a better second choice would be the 34XS955, that is, if you can still find one. IIRC, it is virtually identical to the 960 except for the independant memory??? Then there is the 36" XS955, which is still available new, but is a 4:3 screen.


----------



## paulnccu




mku917 said:


> mku:
> 
> for what it's worth, i bought a best buy floor model back in early march. it has had no problems, even though it tends to remain on most of the time (much as it did in the best buy showroom). technology suggests that tube TVs are less apt to suffer PQ woes as a result of extended viewing time (as plasmas and LCDs tend to do). i usually leave mine on, without a picture, so it doesn't suffer through the trauma of 3 or 4 on-offs each day (the two seconds of "turning on" stress is harder on the components than hours of continuous viewing, much like starting versus driving a car).
> 
> 
> though i have no extended warranty beyond the two years sony offers you might want to consider getting one since a lot of 960 owners have had trouble with their units (and it's not like you can pick it up and carry it into the nearest sony repair center). i would venture to guess that the fact that the unit has stood the test of (at least some) time on a showroom floor that it's actually a good sign for the particular unit; in other words, the fact that it's been continously tested under operating conditions is more a plus than a minus because it has NOT demonstrated the problems other sets have shown. for what it's worth, anecdotedly to be sure, my TV has borne this theory out (at least to this point).
> 
> 
> hope this helps.


----------



## PhilipO38

I'm looking for a second HDTV for my den..around 32" or below(26" fits the best, as it's a small den), and i'm getting stuck here..and frustrated, because nothing is coming close to the PQ of the XBR960.


This 2nd set will be used mainly for gaming(360/PS3) and some Hidef HD movies, and size does not matter, it's only about PQ.(like the XBR960 was)


I'm looking into the Samsung 23" or 26" LCD's(8ms) but i noticed some blurryness in PGR3's demo(in store display) on this LCD. And i'm sure the other LCD's will have the same problems.


Or i could go with a 26" Toshiba or another 26" CRT(i these are still in stock), but all of these CRT's have resolutions that are 800 across , compared to 1400 of the XBR960..and 1280 compared to the LCD's.


I have a older Samsung 27" HDTV CRT (03' model), and it's so obvious the resolution is around 800 lines, because it PQ comes noware near the XBR960's. So the Slimfit Samsung 26" models, are not exciting me as well.


Does anyone have an idea which HDTV(say 32" and under) would be my best bet here, for best PQ..for gaming?


TIA


----------



## PhilipO38

One more question guys, we all know the XBR960 is/was rated at 1400 lines of resolution...and most CRT's only reach 800-1000 max.


I'm gathering the 1400 pixels across..as in 1400*1080i, is this correct?


Or is the 1400..going down the screen? (ie..1920*1400)


TIA


----------



## justsc

You've got it right. The optimal signal is 1920 x 1080i. With 1920 representing horizontal resolution, the vertical lines running across the screen. The 1080 represents the vertical resolution, the horizontal lines running from top to bottom.


So, 1440 x 1080i is what we usually refer to as what the SFP tubes like the 960s can do.


----------



## keldarironfist

i work at a local retail chain that sells tv's and i have access to two floor/display model xbr960's selling for 999$ should i grab them? also im a big gamer,ive been told that becuz of the black levels the crt is the way to go but not being able to display 720p nativly kinda is discouraging im wondering if ill see noticable difference between 1080i and 720p when im playin a game like on 360 etc..


----------



## avaroni

Hi folks...


Back again for help. I got my replacement 960 (the first one, supposed to be NIB, was clearly a floor model) and it is awesome, except...that when viewing in the 4:3 mode, the black bars are about 1 to 2 inches thicker on the right than on the left. The picture, in other words, is not centered, it's to the left a bit. On HD pics, it seems fine, but does that mean I'm seeing too much stuff on the right, and losing some on the left? Is this "overscan"? Does this mean I need to get a tech to adjust it, and is this warranty stuff, or should I seek out a real-deal tech who can properly calibrate the set? Thanks for your anticipated replies.


Jeff


----------



## mku917

Thanks for the replys on the floor model 960. You guys are very generous. Well, I went and looked at the set I'm looking at buying and its all good for the most part. I didn't have a choice though which grinds my gears because I don't like to settle for something I like a choice. I'm going to another store that has 2 floor models side by side to compare. The one I looked at didn't have that bold of a picture but maybe it was because sunlight was coming through the front door of the store. Mannnnnnn, I'm telling you though I called all my local Frys stores and their selling the set for $699 (floor model). Ain't that crazy. Too bad for me though thier all out. They have a few in Cali though. Just wanted to give a heads up. None in Texas though believe me I checked every nook and cranny.


----------



## mku917

Also, I finally got a call from an ISF tech and he quoted a price of $225 for one source, $300 or so for 2, $500 for all. I don't know if this is a good price but I'm still lookin'. The guy told me that there wouldn't be a problem with the set if it was a floor model. Man I can't wait to rock this set! I've been waiting so very long. This set is so damn heavy though. Oh well, I'll still rock it! esclamation mark are so dang cheesy!!!


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mku917* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Also, I finally got a call from an ISF tech and he quoted a price of $225 for one source, $300 or so for 2, $500 for all. I don't know if this is a good price but I'm still lookin'. The guy told me that there wouldn't be a problem with the set if it was a floor model. Man I can't wait to rock this set! I've been waiting so very long. This set is so damn heavy though. Oh well, I'll still rock it! esclamation mark are so dang cheesy!!!



The price quoted is what I usually see. I would probably go for the $300 calibration.


Good Luck!


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *avaroni* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi folks...
> 
> 
> Back again for help. I got my replacement 960 (the first one, supposed to be NIB, was clearly a floor model) and it is awesome, except...that when viewing in the 4:3 mode, the black bars are about 1 to 2 inches thicker on the right than on the left. The picture, in other words, is not centered, it's to the left a bit. On HD pics, it seems fine, but does that mean I'm seeing too much stuff on the right, and losing some on the left? Is this "overscan"? Does this mean I need to get a tech to adjust it, and is this warranty stuff, or should I seek out a real-deal tech who can properly calibrate the set? Thanks for your anticipated replies.
> 
> 
> Jeff



Jeff,


This is a warranty issue and you have every right to expect either Sony or the reseller to make it right. I would avoid calling a pro calibrator until the set meets your expectations from a warranty perspective.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Lately I've heard much about DVD players with built-in upconversion to 1080i. I know the 960 also upconverts non-HD sources and I love the way DVDs look. Would the picture quality improve with a player that features upconversion or does the 960's own circuitry already achieve near HD quality for DVD?


Thanks for your thoughts on this.


- Joe


----------



## masbama

I have the Panny S77 that upconverts 1080i thru HDMI. That being said; it replaced a Toshiba non-progressive scan player that the TV would upconvert. Some DVD's showed a noticable difference, some not much at all. Panny's sound is much better though.


----------



## LDBecker

Got a Dish 622 HD DVR tuner set up yesterday through HDMI, and all I can say is, "WOW!" What a great picture! On top of that, Magnolia price-matched me down to just under $850 today (still within the first 30 days), so, along with the free Sony stand, and the new remote they got for me, and the amazing picture, I am really thrilled with this tv.


Just wanted to share some good news about this model.


Larry


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Lately I've heard much about DVD players with built-in upconversion to 1080i. I know the 960 also upconverts non-HD sources and I love the way DVDs look. Would the picture quality improve with a player that features upconversion or does the 960's own circuitry already achieve near HD quality for DVD?
> 
> 
> Thanks for your thoughts on this.
> 
> 
> - Joe



It has to do with the relative capabilities of the video processing circuitry for the tv versus the dvd player.


I purchased an Oppo upconverting player some time ago. It has a chipset from Faroudja that many believe is the industry reference for video processing, with specific strengths in deinterlacing and scaling. Here's how I determined that the Oppo does a better job than my set. I purchased the HQV Benchmark DVD. This disc puts tv's and dvd players through a suite of really tough video processing tests. Bottom Line? The tests showed that the Oppo did a much better job with video processing than the Sony 34" set. In most cases it wasn't even close.


So, for me the Oppo's upconversion is much nicer than what my Sony set can produce. If you go to Oppo's web site you'll see references to a dvd player shootout last year that found the Oppo's video processing to be superior to a Denon $3,500 unit.


----------



## LTRinENC




justsc said:


> It has to do with the relative capabilities of the video processing circuitry for the tv versus the dvd player.
> 
> 
> I'm assuming that you have been very pleased with your Oppo? Any problems, issues, comments?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *justsc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It has to do with the relative capabilities of the video processing circuitry for the tv versus the dvd player.
> 
> 
> I purchased an Oppo upconverting player some time ago. It has a chipset from Faroudja that many believe is the industry reference for video processing, with specific strengths in deinterlacing and scaling. Here's how I determined that the Oppo does a better job than my set. I purchased the HQV Benchmark DVD. This disc puts tv's and dvd players through a suite of really tough video processing tests. Bottom Line? The tests showed that the Oppo did a much better job with video processing than the Sony 34" set. In most cases it wasn't even close.
> 
> 
> So, for me the Oppo's upconversion is much nicer than what my Sony set can produce. If you go to Oppo's web site you'll see references to a dvd player shootout last year that found the Oppo's video processing to be superior to a Denon $3,500 unit.



Thanks for the insight. Is the Oppo in the same price league as the Dennon? For economic reasons I could not even consider such an investment in a DVD player a fraction of that cost. I'm wondering more about the players in the $150 range - my brother thinks that TV sets usually do the better job of upconversion.


----------



## mortaldivine




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the insight. Is the Oppo in the same price league as the Dennon? For economic reasons I could not even consider such an investment in a DVD player a fraction of that cost. I'm wondering more about the players in the $150 range - my brother thinks that TV sets usually do the better job of upconversion.


 Look Here


----------



## hidesertforester

The RCA DVR2080 is being sold at great prices but has issues being recognized by some TV's. Does anyone know if it will work with the 34xbr960?


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the insight. Is the Oppo in the same price league as the Dennon? For economic reasons I could not even consider such an investment in a DVD player a fraction of that cost. I'm wondering more about the players in the $150 range - my brother thinks that TV sets usually do the better job of upconversion.



No way. The Oppo runs for $199. I believe your brother is misinformed, in this case at least.


----------



## david4455

So it has been awhile since I have last read this forum...having bought my 960 last fall at around $1600....I was surprised ( perhaps i shouldn't be) to see the same TV now about $600 less.... but I also noticed a new model number ..the 970... what is the major difference betwen the two models and is one suppose to be "better" than the other?


Thanks


----------



## jhirsche

I bought an RCA 2160... and no, it didn't work with the XBR960. It is only recognized as an "other device" on teh firewire, and w/o the capability to control it, its useless. I sold it awhile back after i realized this...


----------



## hidesertforester




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jhirsche* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I bought an RCA 2160... and no, it didn't work with the XBR960. It is only recognized as an "other device" on teh firewire, and w/o the capability to control it, its useless. I sold it awhile back after i realized this...



Thanks. That's good to know. I guess that's why they're so cheap.


----------



## gengle

Hi,


Ive been searching locally for an xbr960 and have not found one. Have I missed the boat on this one?


I have a 420 and after reading about and seeing a 960 I decided I needed one.


I haven't had much success ordering a heavy TV on-line. (Had to send 2 back

already because of damage in shipping).


I need someone to tell me it's a lost cause and move on in another direction or

give me hope that they are still out there.


Should I give in and consider a 970 or hold out and keep looking.


(BTW, I'm happy with the 420, just want a larger set)


I don't really want to give in and get a 955 yet, until I've exausted the possibility for a 960.


Thanks for you wisdom,


G


----------



## LDBecker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gengle* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> Ive been searching locally for an xbr960 and have not found one. Have I missed the boat on this one?
> 
> 
> I have a 420 and after reading about and seeing a 960 I decided I needed one.
> 
> 
> I haven't had much success ordering a heavy TV on-line. (Had to send 2 back
> 
> already because of damage in shipping).
> 
> 
> I need someone to tell me it's a lost cause and move on in another direction or
> 
> give me hope that they are still out there.
> 
> 
> Should I give in and consider a 970 or hold out and keep looking.
> 
> 
> (BTW, I'm happy with the 420, just want a larger set)
> 
> 
> I don't really want to give in and get a 955 yet, until I've exausted the possibility for a 960.
> 
> 
> Thanks for you wisdom,
> 
> 
> G



What is "locally" for you? That is, where are you? I know of a couple of 960's in the Los Angeles area. I think the Magnolia chain has them in the Los Angeles area as well.


It's hard to tell without seeing them side-by-side, but my 960 seem so much sharper and deeper/richer in color than the 970's I've seen on display. When the program material is good, the 960 is stunning. I'm really happy with my purchase and, until 1080p source material is readily available, I won't even look back.


Larry

(I got a GREAT deal on a floor model from Magnolia... No problems at all)


----------



## gengle

....What is "locally" for you? That is, where are you? I know of a couple of 960's in the Los Angeles area. I think the Magnolia chain has them in the Los Angeles area as well...



'Washington D.C. area'


Thanks for the reply,


G


----------



## high def mon

I would not expect to find a 955 anywhere, I think they sold out long before the 960s even went on sale. There was a 960 at a BB in the Denver metro area 2 weeks ago. Open box for $1200


----------



## wanderer

I've been looking for a 960, 960N or 955 for the past few weeks. I almost settled on the 970....


I just picked up a 960 refurb model from the Sony Outlet store near me (Washington) for $719+tax. Their regular price is $899, but this week they have a 20% off sale for all CRTs. Extd warranty is $50 for 3 years, $99 for 5 years. My manufacture date is Oct 2005.


Other refurbs that were available at the Sony Outlet store:

955 - $1099 regular price, $879 with 20% off.

960N - $1199 regular price, $959 with 20% off.

910 - also available, not sure of price. Must be below the 960 price though...

970 - $899 regular price, $719 with 20% off.


They also have the 30XS955 model as well. I think it was $750, with 20% off from that.


----------



## archon333

the 960 actually has a plastic sheet that is bonded to the tube surface with adhesive, issues with that process caused Sony to not use it on the 960N


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *archon333* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> the 960 actually has a plastic sheet that is bonded to the tube surface with adhesive, issues with that process caused Sony to not use it on the 960N



What issues?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What issues?



A few people had dust get caught in the cracks or something like that.


That's about all there is to it.


----------



## mr2828

Also you want to be very careful when wiping or cleaning the screen, as some folks have had the stuff rub off in spots very easily.


----------



## Ladd

So I sit down at lunch time to watch some World Cup, turn on the trusty XBR960 and WTH? Where did that blue blotch in the lower-left corner come from? It wasn't there yesterday. Or the day before that or ever at all since purchasing it last August. Nothing has changed in or around the TV for months, no giant speakers, nothing.


(Ok, I got a Harmony 720 remote four days ago, but I find it hard to believe a new remote could be the cause of the very new and very mysterious blue blotch).


Would I like to know what caused the blue blotch? Sure. But I'ld be a lot happier to simply have it be gone.


Advice, help and magical incantations requested.


EDIT: I now note that there is a small blue blotch in the upper right corner -- not really visible in the photo.


----------



## Justin Fletcher

You've probably got a magnetic field problem. Either it's being generated by something in the room, or maybe the set's interior magnets got jostled. Either way, the easiest fix is to go into the service menu and change the Landing. Here's my post in the Sony Service Menu thread about it. [In your case, you'd need to adjust the LB (Left Bottom) and RT (Right Top) values to fix it.]


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

Does it pulsate with the audio? It's really can be only 1 of 3 things. 1) Magnetic interference caused by the local speakers (which might mean something inside is not right 2) Magnetic interference cause by an outside influence to that side of the 960 3) Your apeture grille is failing, though I have not seen that bright of a blue when it fails - usually more of a darker shadow as is displayed on the far right reaches of the blotch.


And judging by the ABC HD logo, you do realize that your set has horrible overscan issues and really should be professionally set up?


----------



## POWERFUL




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> DoAnd judging by the ABC HD logo, you do realize that your set has horrible overscan issues and really should be professionally set up?



I noticed that too, how would one go about perhaps fixing that themselves?


----------



## narcispy

Mine does that too, unfortunately I can't find a professional calibrator closeby


----------



## Justin Fletcher

Check out the Sony Service Codes thread and do a search. It'll tell you more than you ever wanted to know.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So I sit down at lunch time to watch some World Cup, turn on the trusty XBR960 and WTH? Where did that blue blotch in the lower-left corner come from? It wasn't there yesterday. Or the day before that or ever at all since purchasing it last August. Nothing has changed in or around the TV for months, no giant speakers, nothing.
> 
> 
> (Ok, I got a Harmony 720 remote four days ago, but I find it hard to believe a new remote could be the cause of the very new and very mysterious blue blotch).
> 
> 
> Would I like to know what caused the blue blotch? Sure. But I'ld be a lot happier to simply have it be gone.
> 
> 
> Advice, help and magical incantations requested.
> 
> 
> EDIT: I now note that there is a small blue blotch in the upper right corner -- not really visible in the photo.



Ladd, it appears that the picture tube has picked up some magnetitism. Perhaps you moved a speaker to clean around it or a vacuum cleaner motor was too near the set. Regardless, the set's built-in degausser should take care of it for you. If it doesn't, then try unplugging the set for a few minutes, then plug it in and turn it on.


If that doesn't work, I have a solution you may or may not want to try: Get a hand-held bulk tape eraser. (Radio Shack used to sell these things...they're about 5 inches in diameter and about 4 inches deep). Turn on your TV, and then activate the bulk eraer a few feet away from the TV. Slowly bring it up to the TV--the picture will give you a "rainbow" effect, but don't worry--it's normal. Move the bulk eraser s-l-o-w-l-y around the blue blob, and then very slowly pull it straight back away from the set. Leave the bulk eraser on until it's at least 5 feet away from the TV. Then turn it off and your blue blob should be gone.


Good luck.


Mark


----------



## pharmerphil

Have owned my 960N since March 1. Bought it via internet through ABT Electronics. Love the picture but something starting occurring, for the first time, about 3 wks. ago. When I turn the power button "on" I get the small red light flashing on the lower right front for about 12 to 14 seconds until the picture appears. I asked about this and it is part of the normal "degaussing" process. The possible problem that has started is that when I turn the power "on" the red light flashes 5 or 6 times and the power suddenly cuts off before the picture ever appears. It sometimes takes 2 or 3 efforts of turning the power on before it ever completes the degaussing process and the picture comes on. This has been happening every couple days or so. I tried the unplugging the cord a couple of times and leaving it unplugged for a few minutes but it didn't help. Is this a problem that needs to be looked at by a Sony Service Tech. (while it's under warranty) or is it something that you just learn to live with? I'm a novice at electrical matters such as this and would appreciate some input from those of you that are much more versed with problems such as this. Thanks.


----------



## JoeKing

Hi, I got the Toshiba HD DVD player a little late but I didnt see many reviews from people with the 960 and the HD DVD player. I am reviewing the player with The Last Samurai.


-No edge enhancement at all.


-No blocks when there is movement like with Comcast/OTA HD.


-No artifacts on the screen during bright scenesa and very few during night scenes.


-Image quality when viewing far scenes is breathtaking and beats any HD broadcasts I have seen via Comcast or even OTA.


-Close ups on character's faces unimpressive. This is most likely due to the way the camera was set up when filming the actual film.


-Picture quality appears to be identical regardless if you use HDMI or Component cables. This may sound odd but I actually think I prefer the Component Cable image over the HDMI image.


-You have to boost the brightness pretty high within your TV(37) regardless of how you have the black level adjusted through the HD DVD player's set up. Having the brightness so high makes white text and white objects appear to bleed ever so slightly.


-1080 DVD playback via HDMI is unimpressive. There are not as many jaggies as with regular DVD I guess but the image does not appear to have any more detail.


Overall I am extremely happy although the player is a bit buggy(has issues with freezing every once in a while), and the loading times(30 seconds after popping the disk in) I am as happy as can be because the bottom line for me is image quality and I can finally see how amazing my 960 can look.


----------



## JoeKing

I had the same discoloration on the corner of my Sony. I went into the service menu, then adjusted the LANDING adjustments to control the discoloration. There are adjustments such as UL=Upper Left and BL=Bottom Left. Adjust those and the discoloration on that portion of the screen should go away.


----------



## fred33

Only thing I dont like about my SONY 960 is the weight, and bulkiness. It is so difficult to move, and I have to move soon! Any great ideas as to the best way to move this monster? Maybe I should just sell it and pick up another when I arrive at my new home...hmmmm


----------



## tivotony

I've recently purchased a 960N; any tips on cleaning the screen of dust, etc.? I don't want to use anything that might harm the screen.


Thanks for any advice.


----------



## pharmerphil

No response on my question about my 960 not wanting to "power up". Being a newbie to AVS did I post in the right thread and use the right protocol? If I need to post at another thread pls. let me know where. Still hoping that someone will respond with some info. pertaining to this problem. Thanks again.


----------



## tivotony

I've had this happen 2 or 3 times since I've owned the set. I read somewhere that you should pull the power plug from the wall and wait 30 seconds or so...and then plug it back in. This has worked for me each time the set wouldn't turn on. No idea what causes it though. The set works fine otherwise.


----------



## MarcWalpole

Have had my set for about 10 months; about 4 months ago, had the same thing happen; pulled the power, waited about 5 mins; hasn't happened again(yet!); the cutting of the AC seems to work for a lot of people; remember, the set is a computer of sorts, maybe the "re-boot" is the only way to go...be sure to wait at least 5 minutes.....


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pharmerphil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No response on my question about my 960 not wanting to "power up". Being a newbie to AVS did I post in the right thread and use the right protocol? If I need to post at another thread pls. let me know where. Still hoping that someone will respond with some info. pertaining to this problem. Thanks again.



The XBR960 has a 2-year warranty, have you called Sony Service? That is an option.


----------



## JoeKing

I am still fidling with my set and my HD DVD player and attempting to find the best image quality. I had an earlier post where I mentioned that component actually looked better than HDMI for me. I take that back... kinda... The component image is overly enhanced and appears to have too many artifacts when compared to the more solid HDMI image. The HDMI image has less debris(that resemble artifacting) when compared to component but is definately softer looking. It was easy to make the component image look good but very hard to get a sharp image using HDMI without getting EE.


Here are the service menu adjustments I used to get a more professional image from my set....


I used the HDMI signal and attempted to make it sharper without any debris... I know a lot of ppl on this forum use Pro mode for the SFP sets... I use VIVID and cut the enhancements down. For some reason VIVID when used with HDMI is not as overly enhanced as Standard even though the image has just as much detail...


I first set the HD DVD player to have deeper blacks(black enhancement on) because I could not notice any loss of shadow detail but I could notice that colors appeared more rich and the blacks looked very solid.


Next I turned BLK for VIVID HDMI signal to 0, this gets rid of the crushing blacks in VIVID mode.


Then I tweaked the gamma so that whites didn't pop more than they are supposed to and cause a grainy effect to the image... GAMS=0


Next, I toned down the gamma slightly with GAMR12 GAMG12 and GAMB10. The reason why I put GAMB to 10 is because with the HD DVD player I had to turn the brightness very high and that introduced a slight blue tinge to the image that is eliminated by scaling the blue gamma slightly. After these adjustments I noticed that there were no longer bright white dots when there is any type of artifacting on screen. This made the image look a lot cleaner.


I next adjusted the LTLV from 3 to 2 because it gets rid of a lot of unneccesary edge enhancement and the image is just as solid/sharp at 2.


Then I adjusted my set's contrast, brightness, color, tint and sharpness...


Contrast = 45

Brightness = 35

Color = 33

Hue = 0

Sharpness =32(a bit high for some but no real edge enhancement introduced since LTLV is toned down).

Color Temp. = Warm

ClearEdge VM = Off


----------



## rholt

Just recently I took another shot at calibrating my KD-34XBR960 with my Sony DVP-NS775V DVD player.


I left the DVD player in 'standard' picture mode. I have heard that some of the ther picture modes (e.g. dynamic 1, cinema 2) can mess up the picture. Still - it was difficult to avoid the temptation to use these other settings because - as some of you may have heard - this DVD player seems to produce a VERY dark image in standard mode. The only adjustments I made to the DVD player are

a) turn off progressive - let my TV do the de-interlacing

b) turned the 'black level' setting to on. this helps a little with brigtening the picture.


OK - now I go with Avia calibration.


Mode - Pro (of course)


Picture - I had to really crank this - 55. I was tempted to go even higher. Short of this - the white was just not white in the test pattern. The good news is that I didn't see (to my amature eyes) any blooming - for any of the brightness levels. My main question is - is this too high - am I going to damage the TV.


Picture - very close to defualt setting


Color and Hue - defualt


Sharpness - per some suggestions on this board - cranked down to min. Perhaps I should revisit this with the Avia disk.


Color temp - nueteral


Clear edge - turned it off


DRC mode - turned it to progressive. I need to do this - right?


DRC pallete - didin't touch it.


Color axis - selected monitor. Not sure I am happy with this.


Questions -


a) Is that an insane picture setting. If yes - what else can I do about the otherwise was to dark DVD output. Should I mess with the picture setting on the DVD player?


b) Any other comments on my settings.


Note that even for my OTA input - I have the picture up to 50. I was watching the NBA finals last night. Anything short of 50 - the Maverick's uniforms didn't look really white.


Thanks for you input.


----------



## rholt

Quick aside. Can anyone tell me what 'black crush' or 'crush black' means?


Thanks


----------



## Krychekxf

Not sure if this will help but I've read post about if it doesn't power up and the light is blinking your supposed to unplug it for a bit and then plug it back in. Also I've read it's not supposed to be in a surge protector but directly into the wall. Hope this helps.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rholt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Quick aside. Can anyone tell me what 'black crush' or 'crush black' means?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Unless there's a new meaning, that's an old video production term.


The blackest black in a video signal is set up to actually be a 7.5% luminous value on a waveform monitor. This is called the "pedestal." (Pure white is 100%). However, the broadcast engineer at the camera control unit can adjust the camera pedestal below 7.5% all the way down to 0. This is called "crushing the blacks." What it does is make the overall picture darker, and reduces the shades of gray. Now-a-days, this is also called "super black."



Mark


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BTV Mark* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Unless there's a new meaning, that's an old video production term.
> 
> 
> The blackest black in a video signal is set up to actually be a 7.5% luminous value on a waveform monitor. This is called the "pedestal." (Pure white is 100%). However, the broadcast engineer at the camera control unit can adjust the camera pedestal below 7.5% all the way down to 0. This is called "crushing the blacks." What it does is make the overall picture darker, and reduces the shades of gray. Now-a-days, this is also called "super black."
> 
> 
> 
> Mark



That definition works well. Essentially, a device that crushes blacks makes shades relatively close to black appear totally black, robbing the image of detail in the greys, etc. This would remain true even if brightness (black level) is increased. I had a Samsung upconverting dvd player that crushed blacks and had to return it.


----------



## rholt

Yikes - this description of black crush is sounding very familiar to me.


I have a Sony DVP-NS775V DVD player (see my post above). I have had to really jack up the picture.


I was waching Black Hawk Down last night. I noticed that - in certain lighting conditions - some of the Somali faces where featureless back blots. I don't think that is how the picture is intended to look. Instead - I might have black crush.


Can anyone point me to the write place to invesigate fixes for this.


Thanks


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rholt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yikes - this description of black crush is sounding very familiar to me.
> 
> 
> I have a Sony DVP-NS775V DVD player (see my post above). I have had to really jack up the picture.
> 
> 
> I was waching Black Hawk Down last night. I noticed that - in certain lighting conditions - some of the Somali faces where featureless back blots. I don't think that is how the picture is intended to look. Instead - I might have black crush.
> 
> 
> Can anyone point me to the write place to invesigate fixes for this.
> 
> 
> Thanks



The place to start is in the user menu and Brightness is the setting to adjust. Brightness is actually black level. Set it too high and blacks look really washed-out. Set it too low and shades close to black are now all black. So, you need to find a balance where the details are visible. Brightness and Contrast (Picture) work together. The right way to do this is to use a calibration dvd like Avia. It has test patterns for these and all other kinds of adjustments. Apart from Avia it's guess work. You can try setting Contrast to its mid-point and then work with Brightness using one of the dark scenes you've mentioned. Once you have Brightness to an acceptable level, reset Contrast to where it was before. Then, when your copy of Avia arrives, you can do it up right.


----------



## rholt

Thanks for the input.


I was over on the thread for the NS775 and I saw the following...

_Use the Cinema 1 or 2 setting to expand the black level. This will bring out more shadow detail and still keep everything nice and dark without having to turn up the brightness on the TV._


I guess I will give that a try.


----------



## JoeKing

well if you set your TV to Pro or Movie, you wont have crushing black and you will have more shadow detail because the gamma is not tweaked within the TV as much as with VIVID... however, the image in Pro or Movie mode is too soft, and dull looking for me... thats why I adjust VIVID and tone the BLK down so that I get the vivid clear image without every shade of black turning into deep black.


When I mention crushing blacks I mean that the darker shades of grey are not displayed properly and appear to be deep black instead of grey. Because of this the image will appear overly dark at times and at other times it will appear OK. Turning BLK to 0 while in VIVID mode makes all of the difference in the world and you wont have to boost your brightness that high at all and the image will be a lot more consistant. Also, since the SFP sets cant handle when ppl adjust the brightness or contrast too high because they are sensitive to blooming, this adjustment will result in a clearer image in the end as well since you dont have to push your TV beyond what it can reasonably display without compromising clarity.


----------



## JoeKing

VIVID vs PRO default service menu adjustments...


Color is amplified in the SM for VIVID mode so you have to adjust the color moderately when adjusting COLOR to about 1/3 using your standard TV adjustment and you will get nice natural/vivid colors. While in PRO mode color is not amplified in the SM and you have to adjust the color to about half way to get natural/vivid colors.


With VIVID the GAMMA is tuned too high in the SM. This is good in a way because it helps to give the 960 the bright image it needs to have an image that pops and brings the details that this set has to the forefront. This can be tuned as I mentioned in my earlier post to retain the bright image that VIVID has and still get a natural looking image. With the GAMMA as high as the default SM values are in the SM, the color white is overly enhanced and white dots appear whenever moderate artifacting on DVDs/HD DVDs are present. PRO mode looks EXTREMELY dark because the GAMMA is untouched but is extremely accurate since white does not appear overly enhanced in any way. The clear way to go is to enter VIVID and tune the GAMMA down to get the best of both worlds.


VIVID has the black crush problem while with PRO shadow details are presented perfectly... I actually adjust the PRO mode's brightness so that black is black but all shadow detail is still present then use that as a referance for adjusting VIVID mode's brightness after turning BLK off.


Here is a find that I think is very important for people to know. In the SM there are around 30 seperate sharpness adjustments found in the MID5 section. These 30 seperate sharpness adjustments(horizontal sharpness/vertical... ect...) are tuned perfectly in my opinion in VIVID mode. In PRO mode these sharpness adjustments are all turned off in the SM and that is why the image looks very soft and not detailed in PRO mode. Although VIVID has the enternal sharpness boosted much higher than it is with PRO mode within the service menu, you can adjust the Sharpness to a moderate level and get a VERY sharp image with VERY LITTLE edge enhancement. Even if you feel VIVID has the internal sharpness too high you can adjust the MID5 settings to adjust the sharpness to exactly what you want. I feel that VIVID at it's default MID5 settings is perfect and with my Sharpness set to 25-27(for 1080i signal) I get the perfect image(a lot clearer than PRO mode but without introducing EE). Pro is so soft that it may make material with edge enhancement appear to have no edge enhancement but VIVID makes images witout EE looks stunning but material with excessive EE may stick out a bit.


----------



## gigaguy

Good to know, I always avoided Vivid, but will give it a look with it turned down.

I'm on Pro I believe, and some scenes tend to be too dark, as you say.


----------



## Ladd

Regarding the large blue blotch in the lower-left corner of the set:


Thanks to all who answered promptly; my apologies for the apparant rudeness of crying for help then taking so long to return: Real Life (TM) intruded.



> Quote:
> Does it pulsate with the audio?



No, it does not. But then, I don't use the speakers in the cabinet at all -- they are either turned off completely via a setting in the TV or the volume is simply all the way down.



> Quote:
> It's really can be only 1 of 3 things. 1) Magnetic interference caused by the local speakers (which might mean something inside is not right 2) Magnetic interference cause by an outside influence to that side of the 960 3) Your apeture grille is failing, though I have not seen that bright of a blue when it fails - usually more of a darker shadow as is displayed on the far right reaches of the blotch.



I agree that the blue blotch appears to be some sort of magnetic anomoly. Why I have a large one in the lower-left corner (I've also noticed blue further up on the left side also), a smaller, fainter one in the upper-right corner and why it magically appeared after 10 months of use with no change in setup is a mystery to me.


I hadn't changed anything in my physical setup. I hadn't moved any speakers for any reason. There have been no motors, vacuum cleaner or otherwise anywhere in the vicinity.


I HAVE removed the center speakers from above the set and moved the large right and left side speakers further away -- they have always sat on the floor with about a 12" gap between speaker and TV cabinet; now they are 18" away. And being on the floor, the woofer distance has always been quite a bit.


Turning the TV off then on again, engaging the auto-degauss feature does make the blue patch go away about 98% -- I can see a slight shadow, but no color. It invariably comes back however, over the space of about two hours. I have disconnected the set from the wall several times, ranging from 10 minutes to 30 minutes with no apparent permanant solution.


So degaussing minimizes the discoloration but it inevitably returns. I haven't seen it as bad as the original photo, probably because I turn the set off then on again at the first major hint of blue.


Feel free to interogate me at will until I finally realize that something has changed in my setup or room or home, because I sure can't figure it out. Cosmic Rays? Sunspots? NSA Beams protecting Camp David? Satellite encepholagraphy?











Any recommendations on how to adjust the landing settings when the blue blotch varies in size depending on how long the set has been on? It's almost gone immediately upon powering up (which, I assume would require minimal landing adjustments), but slowly increases over a few hours which would require greater changes in landing adjustments ...





> Quote:
> And judging by the ABC HD logo, you do realize that your set has horrible overscan issues ...



I do now.










I haven't had the set calibrated yet (it seemed mostly OK until now) as I used up all my good karma actually purchasing it -- no way to convince my lovely bride that an extra few hundred dollars is needed. Maybe Christmas-time.


----------



## JoeKing

The blotches are actually fairly common.... I have heard that it is the earth's magnet or something which explains that it goes away and comes back at different times of the day... My friend who had a simular issue moved his set so that it was facing a different direction in a different corner of his room and the discoloration went away. When I had that issue on my set I was lucky enough to solve it via the LANDING adjustments. My latest 34xbr shows slight discoloration from time to time and I just accept it... sometimes it goes away when I turn my set off and on and sometimes it goes away on its own within 30 mins. I know that some repairmen put little magnets in the speakers to offset the blotches... I guess that may not work since the blotches change location... I would move the TV to a different angle and different location in the room(it is actually pretty easy to slide the TV along the carpet if you have it on the right stand), then if that doesnt work I would suggest adjusting the LANDING settings.


----------



## Mathesar












Strange, Mine does the same thing when I first turn it on in the morning but it slowly goes away within about 20 seconds. The blotch isnt as big on mine but its on the left side and the same color. I never really worried about it being it goes away but now im curious..


----------



## pharmerphil

Thanks for the responses to my question about my 960 not wanting to "power up". I was going to try the "pull the cord for a few minutes" trick but nature beat me to it. 2 nights ago our entire power system went out for 45 minutes when a snake crawled in a substation, shorted out something, and the whole rural county power was off for 45 minutes. My 960 has now been coming on properly since that power outage. Let's hope my power problem has been resolved. Thanks again.


----------



## narcispy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strange, Mine does the same thing when I first turn it on in the morning but it slowly goes away within about 20 seconds. The blotch isnt as big on mine but its on the left side and the same color. I never really worried about it being it goes away but now im curious..



You can fix that in the service menu, look for threads about fixing the landing on the screen, I adjusted mine and I no longer have those splotches on the screen.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> No, it does not. But then, I don't use the speakers in the cabinet at all -- they are either turned off completely via a setting in the TV or the volume is simply all the way down.
> 
> 
> I agree that the blue blotch appears to be some sort of magnetic anomoly. Why I have a large one in the lower-left corner (I've also noticed blue further up on the left side also), a smaller, fainter one in the upper-right corner and why it magically appeared after 10 months of use with no change in setup is a mystery to me.
> 
> 
> I hadn't changed anything in my physical setup. I hadn't moved any speakers for any reason. There have been no motors, vacuum cleaner or otherwise anywhere in the vicinity.
> 
> 
> I HAVE removed the center speakers from above the set and moved the large right and left side speakers further away -- they have always sat on the floor with about a 12" gap between speaker and TV cabinet; now they are 18" away. And being on the floor, the woofer distance has always been quite a bit.




If it was pulsating, I would say it clearly was the speaker - either through a failure in the chassis to mimimize the magnetic effect on the tube or that actual sound vibrating the apeture grille/screen if it was indeed going bad.


You note it does not pulsate with sound though.


However, you note that you do not use the speakers in the cabinet.


The first part of trouble shooting is to use them and see if it does vibrate with audio.


And turn it up to make sure. Just to be clear, you might need to wait for a show with some heavy bass to see if it moves if it is the apeture grille/screen failing.


If that doesn't pulsate it, its another outside influence, but at least you will either eliminate those or include them.


At that point you can plan your next point of attack, knowing that the issue is either internal cause or external cause.


----------



## jehnubis

Hello all,


I have a question about the warranty on this t.v. If i buy this t.v NEW at a local department store, will the sony 2 year parts and labor warranty still be valid?


----------



## gigaguy

???Why wouldn't the warranty be good? You usually get a warranty when you buy a new item in a retail store. confused by question, sorry.


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jehnubis* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> 
> I have a question about the warranty on this t.v. If i buy this t.v NEW at a local department store, will the sony 2 year parts and labor warranty still be valid?



The only way you could have a problem is if the reseller (dept store) is not authorized by Sony to sell it's products. Even then, the 2 year warranty is usually upheld by Sony since it's their own guarantee. Even when these sets are sold open box or refurbbed the two year warranty still applies.


Do you know of a specific reason why the warranty might not be valid?


----------



## elvn

A long time ago I remember this set was coming out and I had considered getting it, but later instead got a 50" panasonic LCD. I used a high end photographic lens filter mod I found on this forum on the LCD which helped the blacks/black details, but I really missed the deep black of a crt, especially for gaming. The LCD also has some screen blurring on fast motion + camera panning

.

Now I've been following this thread after considering getting a CRT for my living room. The living room is narrower than my modeled basement entertainment room with the 50", so I thought a 34" would be perfect to sit across from my couch the narrow-way, with its back to the window.


I knew they didn't make the set anymore but I didn't think it would be so rare to find. I searched tons of google results, checked electronics availability pages, ebay, etc without much luck. I checked a few dept stores in person without luck over the last week, but then today I got on the phone and really called around talking to managers. I found one floor model left in a burb 30 min north of me. "Open box" -- it was actually on at the store so I had a chance to really check it over and play with the menus, etc. It had one 'flattened' top front corner, but only slightly blunted if you know what I mean. The screen looked perfect. I decided to take the set. I also had a 10% off coupon for the store that worked on the purchase, and this dept store's 5yr svc had come down in price in recent history also so I decided to get that too. So I have two years sony and 5 yrs dept store, but the first 2 years overlap. They told me that if anything happens to the set and the parts or replacement model is unavailable, that they would come to an agreement with me on an 'equivalent' or better set at that time to replace it. I think I got a really good deal overall.


I pulled my truck around to the pickup door of the store, backed it up. Then the stockboy comes out with the tv on a wooden cart with metal wheels, completely by itself with no packaging! I looked at him and said "You have no packaging at all for this? It will get banged around like crazy in my truckbed and the screen with get scratched." He said they had no boxes, then finally said he might have a roll of bubblewrap he could use. So we both ran the bubble wrap around the tv three times and taped it. I slid the tv screen facing the cab of my truck and bungied the hell out of it. It looked like a spider web







Then all the sudden the hot sunny day got overcast and it started to rain lightly. I drove quick to a nearby K-mart and grabbed some plastic dropcloth to cover the tv since I had forgotten my tarp







Luckily it started raining before I got on the highway (so that I could hit k-mart) - because it was very congested rush hour traffic on the way home.


Anyway it all turned out ok. Right after I got it in the house there was a downpour though lol... I haven't had much time to calibrate it, but I think it looks great already. There was a very slight bend on the lower left of the geometry but the rotation controls seemed to take care of that pretty well. I tested my xbox media center on it and it has its own overscan and convergence control setup on it. I watched a few scenes of some dvds, and one whole dvd. My HD cable box is on my basement set so I haven't had a chance to test HD other than a divx clip I had on the xbox.


I'd like to connect a computer to it eventually for dvd playback , gaming, and to use the set as a monitor on occasion. I'm also considering getting a satellite dish service with a dual dvr to replace my single-box cable service. I used to have VOOM a long time ago before they folded, and sat. co's seem to have alot more HD content than my local cable + better deals on multiple boxes.


Very happy with the set so far. Thanks for this thread.


----------



## justsc

Congrats on your new 960.


I'm sure you won't be disappointed.


Cheers!


----------



## Decharo

I have been eyeballing a 970 for the past few months and decided to do some searching on this site for some helpful incite. A couple of days in to my reading I found i missed the boat on the 960 so I went searching locally a couple of weeks ago for a leftover 960. I came across a display model at a Tweeter clearance center and the price was a few hundred dollars more than a new 970. I tried to haggle with the salesman but he would not budge and he said the price was already reduced as low as it would go. I could not see spending more money on a used set that was probably on display for a year or more (manufactured in July of 2004). So I gave up my search and was ready to pull the trigger and buy a new 970. This past Wednesday for the goof I checked back at the Tweeter to see if the set had sold and give them one last chance for a sale, low and behold the price for the set was reduced to $750.00. Bought it on the spot brought home and I am now enjoying it, set needs some tweaking so I am reading post to get some setup help.


I have a couple of questions.


1) Need remote where can I get the RM-Y201?


2) Need stand, do they still sell the matching stand for this unit and if so where do I get it?


----------



## elvn

Thats a good deal you got there for $750.


I just put my TV on my old panasonic 29" 4:3's wooden/fiberboard pedastal tv-stand for now. I think I bought it at target a long time ago. Its very squat and sturdy. The 960's dark part fits on it, and alittle of the lighter border on the front screenframe. So theres alittle overhang on the screen frame, and the narrowing part of the back housing extends off of it, but it looks pretty decent actually. I'll take a pic later if I can.


Too bad theres no Ikea around here. I got some nice stuff from there driving back from toronto a few years ago but thats a long way to go.


----------



## max04

hey i just got the same tv at tweeter for 748 in braintree. not to happy with the picture quality compare to my sharp 37 aquos which i sold. maybe i'll return this and buy Syntax OLEVIA LT42HVi.


----------



## Decharo

max04,

Though I feel the PQ is good, I don't seem to think the HD jumps out at me. I think it may be my settings or possibly the Comcast DVR HIDef box, images are clear but they don't blow me away.

I'm still trying to figure it out.

What are you finding?


----------



## max04

hey decharo,

i might have to wait til the Avia DVD come home to correct the geometry and the color. if it not up to my standard im going to return it.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

2 requests.


#1 Does anyone have any url links with photos/jpegs/etc of the 960? Not talking about a shot in your House. Straight ahead shots - preferably with no fake picture on the screen - that could be used for an icon.


#2 (and about 5th request) does anyone have a remote control that has discrete codes for button #5 (in other words - not a toggle).

 


There are clearly codes for discrete inputs of 1-7 though the Sony Remote does not have it.


I suppose I am in absolute denial that it doesn't exist as this would really suck.


----------



## Artwood

Does anyone know if this thread is still official?


----------



## zaphod7501




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> #2 (and about 5th request) does anyone have a remote control that has discrete codes for button #5 (in other words - not a toggle).
> 
> I suppose I am in absolute denial that it doesn't exist as this would really suck.



There is a discrete code that will take you to the tuner, but it will go to the last selected tuner input (VHF/UHF or CABLE). In other words you can go straight from, say video 2 to the tuner but you can't go from video 2 to "VHF/UHF" specifically or from video 2 to "CABLE". It will go from video 2 to the last tuner input that had been selected.


In other, other words, there is a discrete for "tuner" but not for "VHF/UHF" or "CABLE". My older Sony uses the terms "UHF/VHF" and "AUX" for the two antenna inputs.


In the JP1 world it is OBC 36. The toggle from "UHF/VHF" to "AUX" is OBC 42; both under the standard Sony TV command protocol, but you can't toggle until the tuner is the active source. JP1, I can help, but I don't do Pronto or Harmony, etc; but you can probably find someone that can convert from the OBC codes to those formats.


Have they actually found a discrete for video 7? The last I remember was a workaround by using a macro of video 6 then video toggle.


edit: If you have almost any "One For All" remote, you can try the advanced code (or EFC) by pressing Set/Setup followed by 2,4,3 while in the Sony TV mode (newer ones might require 0243) for the "Tuner" command. The toggle command is EFC 112. These can be assigned to a specific key with a "Keymove".


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> does anyone have a remote control that has discrete codes for button #5 (in other words - not a toggle).



I recently programmed a Harmony 720 remote and also had the need for that discrete code. Couldn't find one.


I worked around it .......


---------------------------------------------------


EDIT: Incorrect instructions previously posted, causing unintended frustration among the general populace. Hopefully they don't live anywhre near me and won't track me down like the dog that I am.


Please go down a few postings to Post #4373 to see instructions on setting up the work-around that are much closer to being correct (and with immediate follow-up postings that actually do work).


---------------------------------------------------


Not as clean as a simple direct input code for the ANTENNA button? You bet. But since it is all automatically done by the macro in the remote, the extra 1 second needed to pull of the extra steps is barely noticable.


Hope I correctly interpreted what you were trying to do!


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Artwood* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if this thread is still official?



I believe Howard Stringer renewed it for another year.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zaphod7501* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There is a discrete code that will take you to the tuner, but it will go to the last selected tuner input (VHF/UHF or CABLE). In other words you can go straight from, say video 2 to the tuner but you can't go from video 2 to "VHF/UHF" specifically or from video 2 to "CABLE". It will go from video 2 to the last tuner input that had been selected.
> 
> 
> In other, other words, there is a discrete for "tuner" but not for "VHF/UHF" or "CABLE". My older Sony uses the terms "UHF/VHF" and "AUX" for the two antenna inputs.
> 
> 
> In the JP1 world it is OBC 36. The toggle from "UHF/VHF" to "AUX" is OBC 42; both under the standard Sony TV command protocol, but you can't toggle until the tuner is the active source. JP1, I can help, but I don't do Pronto or Harmony, etc; but you can probably find someone that can convert from the OBC codes to those formats.
> 
> 
> Have they actually found a discrete for video 7? The last I remember was a workaround by using a macro of video 6 then video toggle.
> 
> 
> edit: If you have almost any "One For All" remote, you can try the advanced code (or EFC) by pressing Set/Setup followed by 2,4,3 while in the Sony TV mode (newer ones might require 0243) for the "Tuner" command. The toggle command is EFC 112. These can be assigned to a specific key with a "Keymove".




1) Yes, I have found the discrete code for to go back to the tuner - but only the last way it was. At that point you must toggle using the equivilant of Button 5.

That makes it impossible to program correct macros for this set










I don't think this exists, but I continue to ask as this is the most disappointing development I have had with this set.


2) Yes, there is a discrete code for input 7 that works well at least in Pronto land - and Harmony land as well if what was posted in this thread 6 weeks ago is true. Actually, that was the first I knew that it would accept discrete codes for ANY inputs.


Check here:

http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin...hread.cgi?3301


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Hope I correctly interpreted what you were trying to do!



A shout out to you.....it appears you found a solution around the problem, though as you state, not as clean as it could be - but it would seem to work in theory. Quite frankly I didnt even know the set had a favorite channels that was addressable, so I will look at that.


Are all 16 Favorite Stations addressable via a unique code or is it similar to punching in favorite and then the digit(s).


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A shout out to you.....it appears you found a solution around the problem, though as you state, not as clean as it could be - but it would seem to work in theory.



Not theory, it works fine with my XBR960 and Harmony remote.



> Quote:
> Quite frankly I didnt even know the set had a favorite channels that was addressable, so I will look at that.



There is a discrete button on the remote for just this feature ...



> Quote:
> Are all 16 Favorite Stations addressable via a unique code or is it similar to punching in favorite and then the digit(s).



Not that I know of, but I haven't looked either; all I use the feature for is for getting the Harmony remote to switch between Tuner=Cable and Tuner=Antenna.


For going directly to specific channels (either cable or OTA), I use the "Favorite Channel" feature built into the Harmony remote. Infrequently, however, because I don't actually watch much "live" TV. Mostly HD DVR or TiVo.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not theory, it works fine with my XBR960 and Harmony remote.



Not doubting you. At 4am in the morning, it makes sense on paper - I wasn't about spend the next 2 hours working on it







As I said, I'll give you an attaboy for figuring out a constant around this oversight on Sony's behalf.


Quite frankly, never having seen or used the favorite menu, all the select scroll down jump here do this doesn't make much sense when reading it for the first time on a web page until you go RTFM and hit the button on screen to see how it operates - and thats what I was referring to.


It's easy to grasp the concept of a favorite going to the proper input - its getting to that point and beyond that took actually looking at how it worked instead of a web page on it.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> There is a discrete button on the remote for just this feature ...



You are assuming I have RTFM and know every single feature on the remote







As I said, I didn't even get into it to find out that existed.


What I haven't come to grip with yet ( I guess because I have not used the Favorite key), is once you put in the favorite are you saying you just use the arrow down key in a macro instead of something like Favorite Enter 1 Enter to get Favorite #1 or Favorite Enter 2 Enter to get Favorite #2?


I can only assume that is what you are referring to - yet I see digits in 10+ in the Sony remote controls which make me wonder if there is direct access to say, Favorite #5 or Favorite #16.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

OK...I have experimented with the favorite button and I have hit a wall.


Let's say, per your example, I have Favorite #1 as a Cable Source and Favorite #2 as an OTA source in the 34XBR960.


I select Favorites and scroll down one to Favorites #2 and select it - the OTA Source.


The next time I go to Favorites it opens up on Favorite #2, not Favorites #1 in the side menu - thus I still have no consistent input to start from - whether it be cable or OTA.


If it always started from Favorite #1, then you could program the scroll down 1 to get to the other input....but not if it defaults back to the last Favorite Choosen.


Your description seems to indicate you always get back to Favorite #1 upon pressing the button.


What am I missing here?


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK...I have experimented with the favorite button and I have hit a wall.



I have to apologize for leading you astray -- it appears that what I said to do was but a fractured memory of what I actually did two weeks ago.


Having reviewed both the TV setup and the Harmony setup, I now remember that I found the same problem you did (i.e. the tuner input comes up as whatever it was last time), but I did figure out a work-around. And I just checked it again and it DOES work. So, let's try a slightly different set of instructions.


Basically what is done is to have the TV go to the "Favorite Channels" mode and then the cursor is moved down one step to the first entry and selected. This forces the TV into that mode (if your first favorite channel is a cable one, then the TV is forced to cable; if your first favorite channel is an OTA one, then the TV is forced to OTA). This puts the TV into a known state and it can be manipulated from there.


Example:


My XBR960 "Favorite Channels" has as it's first entry a cable channel (ex: C81.4). So having the Harmony pull up the TV's "Favorite Channel" function and then doing the "Direction Down"/Select commands will always select a cable channel thereby forcing the TV into a known state, i.e. Tuner=Cable.


This is all the programming necessary (for the TV) for the Harmony Activity: Tuner=Cable.


To do the Harmony Activity: Tuner=OTA, you do everything listed above and then add the "InputTuner2" command. This toggles the "Antenna" button and switches the TV over to the OTA tuner.


These two setups will provide the proper framework for your programming needs.


Please accept my apologies for offering incorrect instructions previously.


Ladd



Here are two screen shots of my Harmony setup for Activity: Tuner=Cable and Activity: Tuner=OTA



Activity: Tuner=Cable











Activity: Tuner=OTA


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

No apology needed - if you worked around this to get to a known value its worth the effort to understand it.


It appears to me, again correct me if I am wrong, you are sending device down command to the device after the Favorite command.


To me, it seems this only works if you do not use the Favorites for anything other than Favorite #1 (not hard as I did not know it was there for 2 years). If you manually or otherwise select something other than Favorite #1, it will return to that Favorite number when Favorites is depressed.


Thus, I am not sure why you need the Direction Down command after the select? That seems to constantly move the input to the next favorite, if I understand what it is doing correctly.


Am I understanding that correctly?


So for example, if Favorite #1 was in the example you listed 81.4, you would always return to 81.4 only if you did not start inserting other Favorites and moving to them.


At that point, as 81.4 as your base, you just move on knowing that is your set starting point??


----------



## zaphod7501

On my set I can't use the "Favorite Channel" method (older TV can't use favorite channel with aux antenna) but it has two modes for favorite channel: manual and auto. In "Manual" you set each position and they don't change but "auto" changes the channels listed everytime you enter a channel change from the remote. You might want to check some of the menu options or the I/M for your set to see if that's the case for you.


----------



## Ladd

Nope, you are correct. What we have here is a case where you were unaware of the "Favorite Channels" feature a few days ago, I was, but hadn't actually used it more then once or twice, and now that you are investigating you know more about this than I.


On my TV, when in Tuner=OTA mode, pulling up "Favorite Channels" mode appears to always come up with "add this channel" highlighted, hence I have to do a "down one" command to get to the first favorite channel which is a Cable channel.


When in Tuner=Cable mode, pulling up "Favorite Channels" mode does come up in what it was before as you have pointed out. Hence having my Harmony do the "down one" command will increment the cable favorite channel. I hadn't noticed this previously because ALL of the listings entered into my TVs favorite channels are cable channels so the Harmony programming always works.


99.999% of the programming I watch is Activity=HD-DVR or Activity=TiVo, so what little "live" TV I watch (Weather Channel) will be selected from the Harmony remote's Activity=HD-DVR, "Live TV","Favorite Channels" programmed into the remote (not the TV).


Hence whatever minor glitches the TVs "Favorite Channels" feature introduces won't affect me much, but I can see that your situation may be different.


Other than having only cable channels in your TV's "Favorite channel" listings strictly for Harmony remote "swap tuner" programming, and using only the favorite channels in the remote (not the TV), than all I can hope is that I have offered some clue for you to go in a direction that will solve your particular programming need.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hence whatever minor glitches the TVs "Favorite Channels" feature introduces won't affect me much, but I can see that your situation may be different.
> 
> 
> Other than having only cable channels in your TV's "Favorite channel" listings strictly for Harmony remote "swap tuner" programming, and using only the favorite channels in the remote (not the TV), than all I can hope is that I have offered some clue for you to go in a direction that will solve your particular programming need.



You have clearly come closer to solving this than any one else has that I can tell.


If you populate the favorite channels with only 1 channel and scroll down that will work UNLESS YOU HIT IT FAVORITES FROM THE 1 FAVORITE CHANNEL. At that point it will scroll down to ADD and enter asking you to add a new channel.


Thus, the second time you hit that favorite channel button it would still put you in ADD CHANNEL, unless I am missing something.


Your odds decrease if you populate the favorite channel selection with channels you watch, but it appears you can only do it with one source (either OTA or Cable) or you wont know what the landing base is. Also if your last channel you were watching was #16 or the last channel in the last, it appears you still get thrown into add channel.


Upon thinking about it, it appears that if you put 1 favorite channel in - one that you never view - think about Pax/i, 24/7 religion or if you don't speak a foreign language, Univision. That way you can be assured you would never be on that channel when you press the button on the remote. However, the bad news is you would go there for a second or two everytime you did hit the sequence.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

Just a follow up so its in the thread if anyone else needs it or searches for it one day in the archives......


Again, hats off to Ladd for his idea to use the favorite channel to form a base point as Sony did not include a discrete cable tv/ota tv code for aftermarket remotes. His work got us where we are here.


Upon scanning my cable channels I discovered even with the cable card, there were channels that were black that I was not subscribed to. When I put the number in, they would simply try to tune and then go back with a No Signal message.


By using one of those channels (301 for example in my area) as the one and only favorite channel, I know I will never be watching that channel as its last viewed could have an effect to dsysnch this process.


In other words, it will never be the last viewed channel - ever...which cannot be said of most any of channel with 100% certainty.


By setting the favorite channel as Cable 301, I know that I can always get there by pressing favorites button and scroll down 1. At that point I will have a black screen as it tries to tune to Cable 301....but I can then either 1) input a new cable channel number knowing for sure that it is on the cable card connection or 2) Hit the input selector toggle once to go to OTA, knowing for sure I will always then be in OTA Mode - so I can punch in an OTA channel selection.


All the testing thus far is bulletproof.


Thus, Ladd, you figured out the way to make this work with this tv.


Thanks!


----------



## truesper

I just posted this asking about the general wisdom of buying a display model CRT:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...77#post7900877 


I'm wondering more specifically about what you guys think of buying a display-model 960 vs a new 970. I know the 960 has the nice SFP tube, but on the other hand the 970 has more inputs...


I'm conflicted between the 960 with a possibly-degraded SFP and a new 970 with extra inputs. Are there any other important differences to be considered? (such as extra DRC options? I plan to use this TV with a ps2 a lot, so SD-enhancement is appreciate .


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *truesper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just posted this asking about the general wisdom of buying a display model CRT:
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...77#post7900877
> 
> 
> I'm wondering more specifically about what you guys think of buying a display-model 960 vs a new 970. I know the 960 has the nice SFP tube, but on the other hand the 970 has more inputs...
> 
> 
> I'm conflicted between the 960 with a possibly-degraded SFP and a new 970 with extra inputs. Are there any other important differences to be considered? (such as extra DRC options? I plan to use this TV with a ps2 a lot, so SD-enhancement is appreciate .



The 970 has more inputs? Could you expand on this? I suppose it might have an extra low bandwidth composite or coaxial input, but I'm unaware of any additional high-end inputs. Plus, the 960 has 2 FireWire inputs, which is great for connecting certain kinds of devices requiring digital interfaces.


Try to learn how long the 960 has been used as a display model, and what settings have been used. Obviously, the longer it's been on, and being driven hard (e.g. excessive contrast - Sony calls it "Picture" in user menu) the greater the chance of shortened lifetime and possible burn-in.


If the set seems OK technically, then the asking price is the key. I would expect a floor-model 960 in good condition to run at around $1,100, and less if there's evidence of being overdriven.


Floor Model 960 vs New 970 - This is up to you and your viewing habits. In order to appreciate the picture quality of the SFP tube, you need to sit relatively close, say between 4'-7'. Any further back and IMHO the advantage is lost, it would be best to go with the new 970. Personally, I always try to buy new.


Good Luck!


----------



## KrazyKiko

I've done some searching for the topic, but couldn't find it...


I'm having issues with my KD-34XBR960 where I have an OTA antenna plugged into my TV, and running an optical cable from the output directly into my Pioneer receiver. When watching OTA HD programming, the audio drops in/out (from Digital to Pro Logic) resulting in audio loss. I haven't found a particular pattern, but it's good for a few minutes, then it drops frequently.


Has anyone heard of this issue with the XBR960? I've plugged the same optical cable into my XBOX and the audio doesn't drop at all, so I think that'd rule out a crappy optical cable.


----------



## truesper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *justsc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The 970 has more inputs? Could you expand on this? I suppose it might have an extra low bandwidth composite or coaxial input, but I'm unaware of any additional high-end inputs. Plus, the 960 has 2 FireWire inputs, which is great for connecting certain kinds of devices requiring digital interfaces.



Sorry, I was mistaken. I thought the 960 lacked HDMI input but see now that it does have one.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *justsc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Try to learn how long the 960 has been used as a display model, and what settings have been used. Obviously, the longer it's been on, and being driven hard (e.g. excessive contrast - Sony calls it "Picture" in user menu) the greater the chance of shortened lifetime and possible burn-in.



Both places I talked to were pretty uninformative about usage. I'm not sure if they really don't know or were being evasive .


Does the 960 have any test patterns or diagnostics of some kind?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *justsc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If the set seems OK technically, then the asking price is the key. I would expect a floor-model 960 in good condition to run at around $1,100, and less if there's evidence of being overdriven.



One place wanted $1200, and another $800. The latter told me it had been on 10 hours a day for a year, which sounds like a worst case scenario to me. I'm going to go on to the store and fiddle with them to see what I think.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *justsc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Floor Model 960 vs New 970 - This is up to you and your viewing habits. In order to appreciate the picture quality of the SFP tube, you need to sit relatively close, say between 4'-7'. Any further back and IMHO the advantage is lost, it would be best to go with the new 970. Personally, I always try to buy new.



I'm planning to use it almost exclusively for game consoles (xbox360, ps3) including "legacy" consoles like the ps2. I tend to set fairly close for that kind of use, and it seems like the kind of signal that would benefit from additional clarity.


----------



## pharmerphil

I thought my "power coming on" problem had been resolved when my power was off for 45 minutes when the snake shorted out the sub-station. My "power on" was working properly for 2 days now it's back to the "have to hit the power button 3 or 4 times before the picture comes on". I called the 1-800 Sony Service # and explained my problem. The lady took all my info. and assigned me a File #. Put me on hold until she could locate my nearest Sony Repair Center. Bad news, living in a somewhat remote area of West Tn. the nearest Repair Center is 50 miles away and they are unwilling to come that distance to my house to make the necessary repairs. She said she would kick my service request up to the next level at Sony and let them make the determination as to how to resolve my service problem. Part of the reason I bought the 960 was the attractiveness of the 2 year, in home repair, warranty. Now I'm told that I might not get in home repair service because I live too far from the nearest Sony Repair Service dealer. Bummer! I guess I could live with this problem but I'm afraid it will only get worse and get to the point to where the picture won't come on at all. Has anyone else had this problem and what did Sony Service have to do to correct the problem? Thanx.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

A few weeks back I raised the question of whether an upconverted signal from a DVD player would offer better picture quality than upconversion by the 960. Since that time I compared my DVD recorder's output switching between 480I to 480P and, after adjusting the settings for each for optimin picture quality, found that the best picture quality was through 480I and use of the 960's upconversion. I did the same with my Cable HD DVR (switching between with and without upconversion) and also ound the upconverted signal through the Cable Box lacking compared to the 960's own circuitry.


Maybe the 1080P resolution for HD/Blue Ray DVDs will provide a better picture (standard DVDs look so great on the 960) but after these tests I'm glad to find that the 960's upconversion circuitry is all that one requires.


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *truesper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ...Does the 960 have any test patterns or diagnostics of some kind?



I believe it does. You might try doing a search in the Sony Service Codes thread for internal test patterns.




> Quote:
> One place wanted $1200, and another $800. The latter told me it had been on 10 hours a day for a year, which sounds like a worst case scenario to me. I'm going to go on to the store and fiddle with them to see what I think .



Both could be reasonable prices - but you do need to check for yourself, as you are planning.







10 hours for a year might not be a deal killer if it hasn't been driven in torch mode in Vivid or with Contrast (the Picture setting) too high (over 70-75% on the slider). If it has been driven too hard then I'd forget about it. Plus, you have to wonder why they're asking only $800. The other one has me intrigued.



> Quote:
> I'm planning to use it almost exclusively for game consoles (xbox360, ps3) including "legacy" consoles like the ps2. I tend to set fairly close for that kind of use, and it seems like the kind of signal that would benefit from additional clarity.



In your case I totally agree - the added resolution would be not only appropriate but more enjoyable too.


----------



## nor1spruce

Thanks for all your help on this tv. I have an XBR700 40" in Pa. that I love. They don't make it anymore. The XBR960N is a great addition to our Florida place...........


So in repayment for the great advice, Jetson in Fort Pierce Fl has 1 display and had 3 NIB XBR960n's until I bought one on Saturday for $1099. That means they have 2 NIB and 1 display left. Manufacture date 2-06......good luck!


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nor1spruce* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So in repayment for the great advice, Jetson in Fort Pierce Fl has 1 display and had 3 NIB XBR960n's until I bought one on Saturday for $1099. That means they have 2 NIB and 1 display left. Manufacture date 2-06......good luck!



Congratulations and enjoy your new XBR960. To find a model new in box, manufactured four months ago, for $1,099 is a steal and an $800 price drop from what many of us paid this time last year.


BTW - your 4x3 40" XBR actually yields a 16x9 screen size slightly bigger than the 34" model you just got. Let us know how they compare to each other.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

While I've owned the 960 for nearly a year I only recently discovered that customizing the DRC palette affects previously made picture settings so when detail and clarity are set one should go back to see if the initial picture, brightness etc need to be readjusted slightly.


I have been very satisfied with my THX Optomizer settings for DVD for quite a long time. however, I decided to experiment by adjusting a second unused DRC palette. For this test in detail and clarity I used the THX Optomizer main menu which had pure white text against a pure black background. I was amazed how more vivid the printing had become but then noticed a darker picture playing back the movie. Went back to my menu settings and found I needed to re-adjust slightly the brightness, picture, color, etc (sharpness left alone). The increased picture quality was stunning.


Too bad the manual made no mention that detail and clarity settings could affect other settings causing them to need re-adjustment. Could have had this more brillant picture quality all this time


----------



## pharmerphil

The not "coming on" problem with my 960 has developed into a "power cuts off while TV is on, screen goes black/no sound, and then suddenly comes back on". Sony Service has located a Service Repair shop that will drive the 41 miles to my home, take the 960 back to their shop for repairs. The service tech. at the repair shop says he thinks the Power Supply will need to be replaced. He wasn't real pleased when I told him I would be unable to assist him with loading the TV into his van due to recent abdominal surgery. He said that would mean he would have to bring a "helper" with him because it takes 2 people to lift a 960. Asked him how long the TV would be in his shop and he had no idea. Said he only gets to my area every couple wks. so it would be a while before I got it back. Looks like the Sony In-Home Repair Service isn't designed for those who live in non-metro areas such as mine. I'll let you know when, and what the repairs consisted of when they are finished. I just hope they can resolve the problem on the first attempt.


----------



## Mathesar

Well after 5 months of trouble free usage my 960 decided to do the infamous wont power on symptom ,the light would flash repeatedly then nothing , you could tell the TV was on but there was no picture or sound , after pressing power again you'd hear the usual "click" as it shut off, I tried it a few times with no luck, I then unplugged it for a few minutes and thankfully it turned right on after that. Hopefully it doesnt become a problem..


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well after 5 months of trouble free usage my 960 decided to do the infamous wont power on symptom ,the light would flash repeatedly then nothing , you could tell the TV was on but there was no picture or sound , after pressing power again you'd hear the usual "click" as it shut off, I tried it a few times with no luck, I then unplugged it for a few minutes and thankfully it turned right on after that. Hopefully it doesnt become a problem..




After all this time, I only had that happen to me about two weeks into owning the thing, and after I did what you did, I've never seen it again. *knocks on wood*


----------



## JackXBR

Hi all,


First off, thanks for making AVS such a great forum with your collective, in-depth knowledge. I will do my best to contribute as I learn from the wealth of posts here. I am an audiophile, but alas, a video noob.


On to the dilemma. I have the opportunity to purchase what appears (to me) to be a near-perfect condition floor model KD-34XBR960 with but a single flaw: There is a smudge about the size of a pencil eraser on the anti-glare coating (plastic sheet?) near the middle-right half of the screen. It is noticable with the TV off, less-so with it on. However, since I know it is there and my vision is very good, it is definitely noticable by me at typical viewing range. My wife, whose vision is okay, would probably miss it without her glasses.


It is being offered at an extremely low price (roughly 1/3 of retail) I'm guessing due to this defect. It has been on display for the better part of a year at Tweeter. Is the defect worth the low asking price or is the question entirely subjective? If so, what is your opinion given the scarcity of this model? Can anything be done to buff out or reduce the smudge? Thanks in advance for any help. My apologies for any breeching of the CoC.


----------



## gigaguy

I think one poster had accidently damaged the coating when cleaning and decided to remove the entire coating, that may be an option. I think other cheap 960s can be found, good luck.


----------



## christophersj

Hi Guys


Had my XBR960N for about three months now -- hooked up to the new Dish HD-DVR via HDMI. Awesome.


I am want to know about using the FireWire ports with a real or virtual D-VHS machine. The playback of material FROM the machine TO the 960 over FireWire seems straight forward, but what about the TV sending FW signals TO the D-VHS for recording. Will the 960 really translate incoming signals from HDMI and/or Component HD and turn them into a FW signal for a D-VHS deck to read?


Have any of you done this? What about 5C encryption hurdles?


Thanks,

Christopher


----------



## hidesertforester

I have a 960 and use a cablecard with Comcast. I recently bought a Mitsubishi HD1100U D-VHS and it works perfectly to record and playback movies from HBO.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

It will not convert YPbPr input to firewire output. That would be too easy - even though I tried it 2 years ago with high hopes.


I am pretty sure I remember OTA working.


I was under the impression it would not record cable output to the IEEE1394 as typically DVHS would record the entire channel (or QAM) which in this instance is 38.81 which the DVHS could not pass - But in reality, I have wired it so many ways in the past 2 years, I cannot remember every combination that did work or didn't work.


If Christopherj above is recording HBO directly from his unit via cablecard, then it must work.


However, I am wondering if there is a different, newer firmware that allows this from what I had when I tried it.


----------



## christophersj

OK, so a cable card is working, even with encrypted channels, and making the FireWire/iLink port act like an OUTPUT to feed the D-VHS machine. What about just an HDMI input from a satellite HD box? When I press the iLink button, I am not seeing the program in the preview window.


How do you tell the iLink screen which input to be looking at?


-Christopher


----------



## christophersj

Let me word this better:


Is anybody anywhere using the XBR960 to convert an HDMI signal form an HD DVR satellite box (like the Dish VIP266) to a Fire Wire signal that a D-VHS records -- with 5C encrypted channels?


I just want to record the already stored programs on the HD-DVR, and was hoping the XBR960 could make the workflow happen.


My understanding is that, short of a professional video component analog HD capture card in a computer, or a some sort of ripping software performed on the DVR hard drive, the D-VHS is the only way to record the 5C encrypted programing.


Thanks in advance.


-Christopher


----------



## fred33

I am not sure if this is the correct forum for this but lets see....

I am moving and will be taking my XBR960. Has anyone moved this heavy tv anywhere yet? If so how did you: move it? protect it? place it?


Thanks for your...indulgence.


----------



## Ladd

May we correctly assume that you don't have a large basement where you have kept the original box and all the associated packing material?


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *christophersj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Let me word this better:
> 
> 
> Is anybody anywhere using the XBR960 to convert an HDMI signal form an HD DVR satellite box (like the Dish VIP266) to a Fire Wire signal that a D-VHS records -- with 5C encrypted channels?
> 
> 
> I just want to record the already stored programs on the HD-DVR, and was hoping the XBR960 could make the workflow happen.
> 
> 
> My understanding is that, short of a professional video component analog HD capture card in a computer, or a some sort of ripping software performed on the DVR hard drive, the D-VHS is the only way to record the 5C encrypted programing.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> -Christopher



It doesnt work that way - only with the tuner input.


That's how it selects which input to output on the ilink port - it selects the tuner.


----------



## christophersj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It doesnt work that way - only with the tuner input.
> 
> 
> That's how it selects which input to output on the ilink port - it selects the tuner.



Thanks, that's the kind of answer I was looking for. Sad, but the truth.


So now I am looking at these possibilities for fair-play recording of 5C encrypted HD from my XBR 960 and Dish HD-DVR:


1) a $500 FireWire add-on to the HD-DVR by a company that does that, and a $500 D-VHS machine.


2) a $1000 professional analog HD Component video capture card in my Mac tower by either Black Magic Design or AJA.


3) pulling out the DVR drive and using ripping software (which may or may not work) and lengthy software conversions. Yuk.


Man I don't want to do anything illegal, I just want to archive some shows that I already pay to watch. Jeez. If my HD-DVR had a back-up to external disk option, this wouldn't even be an issue. This is a totally legit fair-play need that should be filled.


-Christopher


----------



## fred33




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> May we correctly assume that you don't have a large basement where you have kept the original box and all the associated packing material?



Yes, you may assume that. Like all things, I have had the TV longer than one year and the box is gone.

Here are some questions I have about moving this set. (hope most of you dont mind this and will indulge me).

I was thinking of padding the front screen, then laying it screen down on a padded dolly for transport down the stairs. Then put it upright in the truck I rented.


----------



## seti1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pharmerphil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The not "coming on" problem with my 960 has developed into a "power cuts off while TV is on, screen goes black/no sound, and then suddenly comes back on". Sony Service has located a Service Repair shop that will drive the 41 miles to my home, take the 960 back to their shop for repairs. The service tech. at the repair shop says he thinks the Power Supply will need to be replaced. He wasn't real pleased when I told him I would be unable to assist him with loading the TV into his van due to recent abdominal surgery. He said that would mean he would have to bring a "helper" with him because it takes 2 people to lift a 960. Asked him how long the TV would be in his shop and he had no idea. Said he only gets to my area every couple wks. so it would be a while before I got it back. Looks like the Sony In-Home Repair Service isn't designed for those who live in non-metro areas such as mine. I'll let you know when, and what the repairs consisted of when they are finished. I just hope they can resolve the problem on the first attempt.



Have him double check ALLl the voltage regulator heatsinks. Mine was stripped out from the factory and would allow the voltage regulator overheat which would turn off the set. They replaced the regulator and heatsink and all has been good for a few months.


----------



## seti1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pharmerphil* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The not "coming on" problem with my 960 has developed into a "power cuts off while TV is on, screen goes black/no sound, and then suddenly comes back on". Sony Service has located a Service Repair shop that will drive the 41 miles to my home, take the 960 back to their shop for repairs. The service tech. at the repair shop says he thinks the Power Supply will need to be replaced. He wasn't real pleased when I told him I would be unable to assist him with loading the TV into his van due to recent abdominal surgery. He said that would mean he would have to bring a "helper" with him because it takes 2 people to lift a 960. Asked him how long the TV would be in his shop and he had no idea. Said he only gets to my area every couple wks. so it would be a while before I got it back. Looks like the Sony In-Home Repair Service isn't designed for those who live in non-metro areas such as mine. I'll let you know when, and what the repairs consisted of when they are finished. I just hope they can resolve the problem on the first attempt.



Have him double check ALL the voltage regulator heatsinks. Mine was stripped out from the factory and would allow the voltage regulator overheat which would turn off the set. They replaced the regulator and heatsink and all has been good for a few months.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *christophersj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> a $500 FireWire add-on to the HD-DVR by a company that does that, and a $500 D-VHS machine.



I believe you speak of the R5000HD card. It works with USB so actually you must run that to a computer and THEN output it to IEEE1394 to a DVHS deck. Remember to add the cost of the computer into this equation.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *christophersj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> a $1000 professional analog HD Component video capture card in my Mac tower by either Black Magic Design or AJA.



Why does everyone that speaks of this option always forget about getting the audio back into the computer and keeping it in sync?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *christophersj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> pulling out the DVR drive and using ripping software (which may or may not work) and lengthy software conversions.



Are you sure you can do this with the 622? I haven't looked real hard, but I thought the files on the 622 had pretty good encryption on them.....maybe not though.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *christophersj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If my HD-DVR had a back-up to external disk option, this wouldn't even be an issue.



Didn't Dish say (although we know how much Dish changes what they say) they were going to have an external hard drive add on to 622 in the future using the usb port?


----------



## christophersj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I believe you speak of the R5000HD card. It works with USB so actually you must run that to a computer and THEN output it to IEEE1394 to a DVHS deck. Remember to add the cost of the computer into this equation.



Actualy the 169Time company directly puts a FireWire port on the DVR motherboard (for connecting directly to a D-VHS recoreder). But Im not sure if they are doing this very recent model yet. No computer needed.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Why does everyone that speaks of this option always forget about getting the audio back into the computer and keeping it in sync?



These capture cards keeps rock solid audio sync. It wouls be a complete analog process via Stereo RCA and Component HD. They are used for professional audio/video production. We use them in our studio evy day. They capture either in DVCPRO-HD, HDV, or Uncompressed HD codecs. Flawless workflow.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are you sure you can do this with the 622? I haven't looked real hard, but I thought the files on the 622 had pretty good encryption on them.....maybe not though.



No, I'm not sure. I'm asking in other places. But it has been done with past models.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Didn't Dish say (although we know how much Dish changes what they say) they were going to have an external hard drive add on to 622 in the future using the usb port?



I have been spending a good bit od time on the boards at DBS Talk.com about my particular DVR and this info has never been given. It would be nice, though. I would be happy if that were the case. But I dont think they have.


-Christopher


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fred33* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, you may assume that. Like all things, I have had the TV longer than one year and the box is gone.
> 
> Here are some questions I have about moving this set. (hope most of you dont mind this and will indulge me).
> 
> I was thinking of padding the front screen, then laying it screen down on a padded dolly for transport down the stairs. Then put it upright in the truck I rented.



I don't see a problem with your method.......probably the way I would do it.


----------



## elvn

I think the set has a standby mode so maybe some of the power-on problems are related to being in standby, and unplugging it for a bit clears the memory or something. Just a thought.


I know other turn-on problems would usually be related to the 'ignition circuitry' but I try not to use the power button on the tv itself since I've had trouble related to the actual power button on a different brand set before. I just use the remote (call me paranoid).


----------



## elvn

The time I transported my set was from the store to home. I wrapped my set in bubble-wrap three times, and loaded it with one other person (one on each end) into my ford ranger's truck bed. I would have used more padding and blankets but I didn't realize before I left to pick it up that 'open-box' meant no box whatsoever. The stock-boy brought the set out completely unpacked in anything on an old wooden cart with metal wheels







. Anyway I put the screen side up against the cab of my truck and bungied the heck out of the tv. It looked like a web. I then put a balled/folded rag or towel between the screen frame and the truckbed/cab wall at a few spots so that the screen surface wouldn't get any direct pressure. I did that just to be safe, even though I have a bed-liner. It was going in my living room so my gf's dad and I each took an end and brought it in the front door.


It worked out well. I would make sure you have a pretty strong person on each end of the tv in order to navigate doorways and stairs where extra people can't help much. if you are doing alot of stairs you might consider a heavy-duty dolly or build a small wooden sled with a foot on it (to hold the set on the sled), and maybe a rope safety line so others can feed the sled down to the movers on the stairs. Thats only if you want to be extremely safe about it. Thats how I move heavy aquariums, which otherwise can get pressure points and crack when set down on staircases.


One other tip I have for moving monitors and televisions (and aquariums for that matter) --- keep the surface(s) protectively covered the whole time. It is natural to pull the object to your torso when moving things, and most people have a belt-buckle or a button on their jeans, etc at their waistline. I think you get the picture







Also remember to avoid bumping into door handles, railings, and the remaining railing mounts if you removed a railing.


----------



## gamegod2x

Hi guys, i have a 960 and was wondering if you could suggest good TV stands for this set that are no wider than 50" and can support the weight of the tv.


Also something that is below $120


Thanks,

Dennis


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gamegod2x* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi guys, i have a 960 and was wondering if you could suggest good TV stands for this set that are no wider than 50" and can support the weight of the tv.
> 
> 
> Also something that is below $120
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dennis



If you have a Circuit City nearby, I have this stand and I love it:

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Z-Lin...oductDetail.do 


It is a bit over your price range though. They do offer a less expensive model that is in your range, but I don't have any personal experience with it. The main difference is that the one that I own has the TV sitting on a glass shelf, the cheaper one uses wood. Good luck.


----------



## Paladium

I am looking to get a xbr960; however I live in Toronto and they can't be found here. Anyone suggest a place where one can but one at a pretty good deal over the US border? Just wondering.


Thanks


Dean


----------



## PathofNeo

Has anyone else besides JoeKing hooked up the Toshiba hd-dvd player to the 34xbr960? I figured that this could possibly be the absolute best hd experience one could have at 34".


I'm considering a new plasma or lcd, but would sure love to hear more reviews of how the hd-dvd player looks with these tvs. Thanks.


----------



## patsan

Does anyone know if Sony has a technical bulletin on this set? Last night when I turned the set off, I heard a funny noise. Now it won't stay on and the color is funky.

I've had it almost 2 years, so am no longer under warrantee.

I thought I read in the beginning of the 140's pages someone mentioning a technical bulletin.


----------



## RJRSW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *patsan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if Sony has a technical bulletin on this set? Last night when I turned the set off, I heard a funny noise. Now it won't stay on and the color is funky.
> 
> I've had it almost 2 years, so am no longer under warrantee.
> 
> I thought I read in the beginning of the 140's pages someone mentioning a technical bulletin.



Unless you have had the set over two years it is still in warranty.


----------



## Amiable-Akuma

Found a refurb 960 at a local CC and bought it, have it home now.


I need help as to what I should do from here to create the maximum PQ, the maximum performance. Is there some sort of cliff notes or cheat sheet to all the crazy info in this and the Sony Service Codes threads? Now this thread and that one have gotten so long and confusing that I basically get completely lost in them.


Can somebody please, just tell me or point me to the best settings that have most recently been determined or let me know where I should start from here?


Here's a couple things for your consideration. I'll have the 960 in a room that is basically 90% dark during the day, completely dark at night (windows have been blacked out). I'll be sitting about 8 and 1/2 feet from it. I want the settings tuned so that HD-DVD and upconverted SD DVD from the Oppo look the absolute sharpest/best. I'll never use the TV to watch any kind of cable/SD/or HD TV channels or play old videogames but rather I'll only be using it for the purposes I just noted.


Please, help me to get started, set the basics of my TV, and then calibrate it to hell via the service menus. If somebody can explain all the steps necessary to do all that for my 960 (that caters to, takes into account the environment I described in the previous paragraph) clearly and in order - I'd really appreciate it and would even be willing to send you like five bucks in the mail for the help.


Let me know and thanks!


----------



## Amiable-Akuma

Okay, well, now after having actually put it on it's new finally-assembled stand and turned it on - the TV doesn't work at all. My wife was the one who drove it home from CC and she said that she thinks she broke it by letting it roll all around the back of her SUV (god help me).


Anyway, I turn it on and it's just a bunch of black screens with jittery white horizontal lines or static filled screens that have wavy brighter lines up in the top half as well. It's screwed - probably the tube needs replacement, right?


So, it's under warranty with Sony still and they're in the process of calling me back to provide me with their service call schedule.


Anyone who has experience with this kind of repair on the XBR960 or who knows Sony service help in general - please, speak up and tell me the details. I'd like to know how long I can expect it to take to be fixed and what the heck I'm in for...


----------



## mav63

Amiable-Akuma, here are some excerpts from my ordeal with the set. It was repaired on 01/06 and has worked flawless since then. Overall it took about 4 weeks to get it fixed due to the holidays.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mav63* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> DI-TECH1, my picture is always scrambled. It is not intermittent. Click here





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mav63* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Technician came out and replaced the B-Y Board, no joy. He said next they will try the "Q Box". If I have no HDTV over new years, that will not be good.
> 
> They will try to get the Q Box replaced by Friday.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mav63* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yesterday, 01/05, tech came out and replaced the MZ board. My problem is fixed. I sure missed my HDTV.
> 
> This TV is awesome(when it's working)!!!!


----------



## Dotun

I just got the last 960N I could find at Crutchfield (open box) but to my horror

after a few minutes of watching it started to show this horrible blue streaking.

Moving the set or gently hitting it from the back or side makes the streaking go away but after a period of time it starts again. It seems almost like a loose connection of some sort internally. Has anybody seen this problem before or know if it can be easily fixed. I really don't want to have to exchange it for another non- N model.


----------



## Decharo

I have had my 960 for a few weeks now and I am enjoying the HD, but standard def. cable channels are Terrible! I even tried my non HD Motorola set top box and it still stinks.

Seems like a major downgrade from my 32" Sony I had before. WHY??


Can there be a magic SM fix for this. High Def cable looks great, DVD's look great, standard def cable STINKS!


I have Comcast with a 3412I HD DVR.


The picture looks grainy and very unattractive. I played with the set-top box options and I can't seem to improve.


HD is great but there is such limited programming with Comcast I feel my hands are tied to 10-20 channels of programming.


Anybody else with this problem?


----------



## dicey

Drop your Sharpness setting to '0'. Turn the VM setting to 'Off'. In the Advanced menu, pick any Custom Palette and take its level to '0' for both adjustments.

This should help.


----------



## high def mon

I use S-cables for all SD material, it means you have to select an another input.

My receiver up converts any signal that goes out over component or HDMI cables.

The Sony up converts again any signal that comes in on component or HDMI.

This double up-conversion gave me a picture like the one you described.

Be good to know if this works for you?


----------



## Decharo

I have my sharpness way down (not zero but close), I have my VM off, and tweaked the Custom Palette and the changes are minimal.


I am using an HDMI cable from the box to the TV. I will try an Svideo cable to see if the digital to analog conversion within the set top box makes it any better.


Thanks for the recommendations guys, I will let you know what I find out.


----------



## Dr. Spankenstein

Sorry for the OT post, but I submitted a post a while ago in which I stated that some of my adjustments in the 2170D-1 menu stopped having an effect (VCEN and VPIN in particular.)

Now, to my horror, I recently discovered that the Vertical Tilt and Centering adjustments in the User Menu don't respond to adjustment either. I haven't come across any other SM adjustments that have lost their effectiveness. Any ideas as to where this problem could be based?


Thanks in advance for any help.


Regards,


Bryan


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Decharo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have had my 960 for a few weeks now and I am enjoying the HD, but standard def. cable channels are Terrible! I even tried my non HD Motorola set top box and it still stinks.
> 
> Seems like a major downgrade from my 32" Sony I had before. WHY??



Because for the first time you actually have a reference quality set that resolves how bad SD really looks. If it didn't look bad, there would have been no reason to go HD would there?


----------



## dicey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Because for the first time you actually have a reference quality set that resolves how bad SD really looks. If it didn't look bad, there would have been no reason to go HD would there?



Too true.


----------



## Ladd

Help me Obi-Wan Kenobi! You're my only hope!


Here are three photos showing the blooming that magically started appearing about a month ago in all four corners of the screen of my XBR960 purchased August 2005.


I've adjusted the "landing" values in the service menu, which makes the bloom almost completely go away but it creeps back over the course of an evening. Even taking the landing adjustment to the full 255 or 0 doesn't keep the blooming from returning. So I've returned the landing values to what they were initially.


The degauss sequence when the TV is initially turned on many times (not most or all) significanlty lessens or removes the bloom (if it doesn't, waiting 10 minutes or so to turn the TV off then on again to initiate a second degauss does the trick), but it still creeps back after a few hours.


There are separate speakers to each side of the TV, but they are about 10 inches away from the cabinet of the TV and sitting on the floor two feet lower -- and, of course, they've been there since last August while the color bloom issue only appeared last month.


Does the different colors of the bloom when different color backgrounds are displayed offer any clues as to what the problem might be?


Does the temporary nature of the adjusting the landing values or initiating a degauss sequence offer any clue as to what the problem might be?


Blue Sky:










Red Carpet (movie premier):










Green Grass:


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *high def mon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I use S-cables for all SD material, it means you have to select an another input.
> 
> My receiver up converts any signal that goes out over component or HDMI cables.
> 
> The Sony up converts again any signal that comes in on component or HDMI.
> 
> This double up-conversion gave me a picture like the one you described.
> 
> Be good to know if this works for you?



I notice both SD broadcasts and DVDs look better when allowing the Sony to handle upconversion. When the cable box was upconverting and the DVD player sent out a 480P signal I found there to be less detail and natural color in the picture quality than with cable box set to "HDMI" and the DVD player to "480i". This also allows one to use the DCR Palette and other advance settings in the 960.


- Joe


----------



## DJF(NJ)




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Because for the first time you actually have a reference quality set that resolves how bad SD really looks. If it didn't look bad, there would have been no reason to go HD would there?



I disagree...SD programming looks better on my 11 year old, 20" Sony TV. The reviews on the 960 and the previous 910 model were the same about how HD programming was superb, but SD was poor. Sony's advertisement even said it was 'Designed specifially for HD...' IMO, SD does not look bad, its just that HD looks alot better.


----------



## Amiable-Akuma

So I've gotten my 960 to come on/work, no longer having those more serious problems that I described in my last post above. Thanks for your help to those who responded. HOWEVER, now I have other issues/questions. As far as I can tell my 960 still has the following problems:


1. There is some color/light blooming spots that appear along the edges of both sides of the screen. You guys know what these look like from previous posts. The right side of the screen has a significant green splotch, the left side has a bunch of red all along its side. They are distracting and affect the overall picture. And, AFAIK, they don't fade away once the TV has been on for a while.


2. Though the middle of the screen is fairly sharp/accurate - the sharpness of the overall screen fades as it gets closer to the left and right sides of the screen. So basically 10 percent of each side of the screen is quite blurry and distracting, especially if text is displayed.


3. Whenever I try to bring up like the set-up menu for the DVD player or run a PC/Windows w/the 960 - everything viewable appears shifted like 25% to the left so that a quarter of what you would normally view is off-screen and not visibile. This can be corrected in Windows to an OK extent by manipulating the window sizes and changing the desktop settings but it seems to be a clear problem/defect regardless.


4. The geometry seems to be off slightly as well on the left and right sides of the viewable screen are tilted diagonal a bit.


5. In general, the screen seems to be too dark. As a previous poster above mentioned - messing with the brightness settings only really serve to wash out the picture. Maybe I'm comparing my old Panny LCD to this CRT unfairly but yeah, it seems dark. The screen is sort of only just acceptably bright enough when the room is completely dark and noticeably dark when there's a light on in the room. Is this normal and/or should I worry about this?


6. Finally, I'd like to ask: just what in general, is the theory behind using a PC on a HD CRT? I've gotten my PC to work on it but I get the impression that CRT's aren't meant for displaying small text or Windows in general. It's taken a lot of tweaking within Windows to get things to display acceptably but it still doesn't appear nearly as clear or adjusted as it did on my Panny LCD.


OK, so there are those things - but, honestly, now (based on the experience/performance I've had thus far) I also have the ultimate question of: should I keep this TV and endure having to wait for it to be fixed or tweaked correctly over several weeks with no guaranteed as-good-as-new type improvement or should I go ahead an return it for exchange with something else like a newer LCD?


Let me know your opinion based on the info I've given you.


See, this is a refurbished 960 I just bought from CC and I'm pretty sure it was rolled around and half-damaged to hell during the drive from their store to my place. So now I need to decide between either keeping this damaged 960 that I may never be able to fix to 100% at about $1000 cost, or buying a new LCD at about $2000, or buying a new 36SX955 for about $1200.


What do you think? I appreciate your replies.


----------



## patsan

Akuma,

I think only you can be the judge of what you should or shouldn't do. You have to be happy with what is pleasing to "your" eye.

I think this is a nice set, but in no way do I think the picture is spectacular on it.

I do realize you have to compare apples to apples, but in December we purchaced a 61" JVC and that picture is awesome. Going from that to the little Sony screen is like night and day (again, shouldn't compare apples to oranges).

I've recently been looking at some LCD and plasma sets in the size range of the Sony....and I do think they have a nicer picture than the Sony does. If I had to do it over again, I would not purchase the Sony.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Akuma,


I agree with Patsan that only you can be the judge on what to buy, however, from your posts it seems the 960 has many problems, no doubt from being a refurbished unit which the previous owner wasn't happy with either. The 960 is a great set however with all that is wrong with the unit you have if I was in your position and unable to find a new 960 I would be apt to return it and go for a good LCD.


----------



## S. Hiller

The Displaymate folks have found that LCOS is the first technology to surpass CRT for TV use. (Their report is on the ExtremeTech site and maybe elsewhere.)


However, the actual unit to pull this off and become their new "reference standard" was at the $40K+, studio monitor, level though.


Still, if I was buying a set today, LCOS would be we're I'd start I guess...


----------



## christophersj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Decharo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have had my 960 for a few weeks now and I am enjoying the HD, but standard def. cable channels are Terrible! I even tried my non HD Motorola set top box and it still stinks.
> 
> Seems like a major downgrade from my 32" Sony I had before. WHY??
> 
> 
> Anybody else with this problem?



This is completely normal and I am sorry nobody told you before: SD, except for DVDs and some higher bit-rate OTA SD broadcasts just don't look good on an HDTV. Its not just the Sony -- its inherent to this whole endeavor.


Here is the best metaphor I have: imagine taking a twin bed-sheet and stretching over a king-size mattress. On an HDTV you are taking a 720x480 image and stretching it over a 1920x1080 rectangle. Something has to give!


Its like zooming in past 100% on a JPRG on your computer screen. Its not supposed to look good.


One way to see that your SD signal is normal, but just being stretched too far, is to look at the SD program in Twin View or PIP mode. Inside of the smaller box, it looks great. This is because it is being shown on something closer to 720x480.


Actually, I think we are lucky that DVDs look as good as they do on HDTVs. Its kind of a miracle, actually.


Please trust me and tell all of your friends who will listen. Except for DVDs, almost all standard def programming will look much better on a cheaper SD TV. Its just a plain observable fact. And it completely expected and normal. In fact, it makes perfect sense.


-Christopher


----------



## Ranger

I have a question. I hooked a pioneer 480i dvd player via component to my 960. Is the tv doubling the signal to 480p ? When I hit the display button the tv is saying 480i. So am I watching 480i or 480p ? If 480i, how do I get the tv to line-doubled to 480p ?


----------



## TopGunHD

Here's one for you gents...


So I have a modded Xbox (NOT 360), and I USED to use it on my 960 using the high definition cables. Everything worked just fine, no problem whatsoever.


Recently, I connected the xbox to the television using both s-video and composite video, and either way, there's lag in the picture. As in, I'll hit my button on my controller, but the video doesn't register it for a fraction of a second. This throws off timing in many games. I was using the ports on the front (video 2, I believe?). I wasn't aware the 960 had this lag. I'm pretty sure it's the TV and not the xbox, because I hooked it up to the other television right next to it and it worked fine. Any ideas?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ranger* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a question. I hooked a pioneer 480i dvd player via component to my 960. Is the tv doubling the signal to 480p ? When I hit the display button the tv is saying 480i. So am I watching 480i or 480p ? If 480i, how do I get the tv to line-doubled to 480p ?




Check your DRC. Interlaced, Progressive, CineMotion. I recommend CM at all times.



See below:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TopGunHD* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here's one for you gents...
> 
> 
> So I have a modded Xbox (NOT 360), and I USED to use it on my 960 using the high definition cables. Everything worked just fine, no problem whatsoever.
> 
> 
> Recently, I connected the xbox to the television using both s-video and composite video, and either way, there's lag in the picture. As in, I'll hit my button on my controller, but the video doesn't register it for a fraction of a second. This throws off timing in many games. I was using the ports on the front (video 2, I believe?). I wasn't aware the 960 had this lag. I'm pretty sure it's the TV and not the xbox, because I hooked it up to the other television right next to it and it worked fine. Any ideas?




Best guess: Is your TV set to Interlaced, Progressive, or CineMotion?

I could see possibly the Progressive setting causing some lag and maybe even the Interlaced. Here's why:


The Interlaced is taking that signal and trying to convert it to 960i (?)


The Progressive setting would make it 540p.


I didn't care for either one of these when doing any non HD gaming.


The CineMotion setting is the one I use all the time. It will do a nice 3:2 pulldown on film material and is for optimal use but it's also the least...invasive, by my experience. Mess with those three settings and see if it makes any difference or not.


----------



## motorhead7319

Anyone in minnesota interested in buying a 960? Mine is only been used a few months and in great shape!


----------



## Decharo

Alright I tried using the Svideo for standard def cable to see if it is an improvement over the HDMI. To my surprise it was a little bit better, seemed to sharpen things up but still not what I think standard cable should be. I was trying to comprehend how it is worse than a non-HDTV and I came across this analogy.


This is what I think is the problem (Please guys let me know if I am close) I am going to use a comparison with numbers on a dice being pixels of the TV. Standard def signal is lets say the #1 on a dice for a pixel, the 960 needs to turn that #1 into a #5 with the info its got. The software in the 960's is trying to enhance a terrible signal the best way it can but it ends up looking funny with the SFP tube because of the lack of info.


Does the 970 without the SFP tube look better with a standard def signal because of its lack of resolution?


Another question for the 960 guys, which OPPO player is better with the 960. I am not planning on using any separate line doublers , descalers or DVDO thingys. I just want to hook it up to my 960 and get the best possible picture out of my DVD's. I have read that the cheaper one may be better for this TV for some reason.


----------



## iamhives




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnny_business* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am new to this forum and thread. I have searched to see if the problem I am having is here, but I am not finding it. I am now on my second xbr960N that I purchased at Ultimate Electronics at the beginning of April. Both sets have had the same problem. One was manufactured in December. Its replacement was manufactured in February. Both sets are exhibiting the same problem, which makes me wonder if it is something with my setup. After warmup, the picture tube will either flash white or turn off (I can hear the picture tube making a noise when this happens) for a split second and then go back to normal for anywhere from 5-30 minutes before it flashes/cuts out again. It keeps doing the flashing/cutting out until the set is turned off. The second set seems to do the flashing/cutting out more frequently than the first. I have the Motorola HD cable box attached to Video 5 and a Denon 1920 attached to Video 7, and both of these inputs have the same problem with flashing. I have the XBR3 stand on a carpeted floor about 3 feet away from some planar speakers with large magnets. I already talked with Sony and have done the reset and tried plugging the set directly into the wall and through a surge protector and an isolation transformer. Anyone have any idea what might be going on?



I just had this problem fixed and in the end it was pretty painless. The problem I had was that after about 1 hr (I assume after everything warmed up) the picture would flash very quickly but then come back - this was almost instantaneous but annoying. It would happen randomly from then on at slowly increasing frequency. In my case the repair man came out and said he might have to replace a board. When he did return he had a technical service bulletin that seemed to specifically address this problem (I didn't get the number). Basically it said that the problem was arcing between the pins at the back of the tube where a circuit board plugged in. The fix was technically simple by required careful work. With tweezers and some toothpicks he asked for, he removed the insulation layer (this apparently was the problem - it was not applied properly) around the pins, then applied RTV106 (high temp insulating silicone sealer?) . After letting it dry, the problem was gone. he said this is a pretty common problem apparently. If this had not worked they would have tried a new board and then replaced the CRT. If this ever happens again I could even fix it myself - it was that easy.


Pleased with the Sony Warranty service so far. Only down side - had to keep bugging my neighbor to help move the TV from/to the TV stand!


----------



## dicey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TopGunHD* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here's one for you gents...
> 
> 
> So I have a modded Xbox (NOT 360), and I USED to use it on my 960 using the high definition cables. Everything worked just fine, no problem whatsoever.
> 
> 
> Recently, I connected the xbox to the television using both s-video and composite video, and either way, there's lag in the picture. As in, I'll hit my button on my controller, but the video doesn't register it for a fraction of a second. This throws off timing in many games. I was using the ports on the front (video 2, I believe?). I wasn't aware the 960 had this lag. I'm pretty sure it's the TV and not the xbox, because I hooked it up to the other television right next to it and it worked fine. Any ideas?



I use S-V with my PS2 and have never had a problem but I'm not a hardcore gamer and probably not as sensitive to this. CRTs usually have the fastest responce times. There must be a problem with your sets processing the S-V signal. Stick with the component.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *christophersj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is completely normal and I am sorry nobody told you before: SD, except for DVDs and some higher bit-rate OTA SD broadcasts just don't look good on an HDTV. Its not just the Sony -- its inherent to this whole endeavor.
> 
> 
> Here is the best metaphor I have: imagine taking a twin bed-sheet and stretching over a king-size mattress. On an HDTV you are taking a 720x480 image and stretching it over a 1920x1080 rectangle. Something has to give!
> 
> 
> Its like zooming in past 100% on a JPRG on your computer screen. Its not supposed to look good.
> 
> 
> One way to see that your SD signal is normal, but just being stretched too far, is to look at the SD program in Twin View or PIP mode. Inside of the smaller box, it looks great. This is because it is being shown on something closer to 720x480.
> 
> 
> Actually, I think we are lucky that DVDs look as good as they do on HDTVs. Its kind of a miracle, actually.
> 
> 
> Please trust me and tell all of your friends who will listen. Except for DVDs, almost all standard def programming will look much better on a cheaper SD TV. Its just a plain observable fact. And it completely expected and normal. In fact, it makes perfect sense.
> 
> 
> -Christopher



Hi Chris,


I cannot complain about SD broadcasts at least on the 960 because I've found that upconverting does improve picture quality.


There are many factors that could lower the quality of SD transmissions. On an earlier post I noted my HD box picture output was set to HDMI instead of upcoversion (i.e., the 960 doing the upconversion from a 480I signal coming out the cable box). This also allowed me to make use of the DCR pallete and other advanced video features which improved the picture even further. It does take time to decide on which settings to use (for example, many of us utilize the PRO picture) and it is amazing how different a picture will be with just a slight adjustment of this and that.


Several members have pointed out that the 960 enhances the strong elements but also the poor qualities inherent with standard digital transmissions which are masked by non-HD sets. Hence, poor quality transmissions do look worse on an HD set while good quality broadcasts look better.


And I agree the best test is comparision. I have two home theater systems, the second a very good two year old Toshiba 27 inch non-HD flat screen CRT. Both are fed via the same HD cable box. Comparing a SD channel I do not find a decrease in picture quality on the Sony. In fact, the colors are more vivid.


I have replaced many of my pre-recorded VHS tapes with recordings onto DVD made from non HD stations like Fox, Turner Classic Movies, HBO2, Encore, etc. While not HD, when good prints are used the picture quality is very sharp, colorful and clear (I would not keep them in my collection, otherwise). And the VHS tapes I made prior to purchasing a DVD recorder this past winter look fine on the 960 (despite tape's limited qualities).


And, as many ohers have said, we have simply become spoiled with the tremendous picture found on HD and DVD that anything else becomes a big let down.


----------



## jamesflames

Anyone have anything like this happen? We all know that some 960s have a problem turning on. For some unplugging it for a minute or so solves the problem but for me I could miss a whole night's worth of tv watching. So I utilized the warranty's in-home repair and had a technician come to fix the problem. After working on the set he said unfortunately the replacement part he brought was defective and after installing it the set had the same problem. So he put the tv back together with all original parts and said they would re-order the part.


I was disappointed but not too upset. I told him it's not his fault the part was defective. He left and I noticed the standby light was blinking but the set was off. I pressed the power button to turn the set on but it wouldn't come on.


I left and then came back home. Pressed the power button. The tv came back on but now the picture was green tinted! Extremely green and out of focus! I tried to see if maybe my settings were off but that wasn't it. Then I tried to adjust my hue settings anyway. That didn't help. The shop was closed. I called first thing the next morning and they said it was the same defective part, it's all related! I asked if it was a coincidence that this part didn't make my picture green and out of focus until the technician touch my tv. They said all they could do is return with the new part once it arrived and replace it with my defective part. By the way, the part is a DZ board.


Anyway, what do you guys think?


----------



## seti1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jamesflames* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone have anything like this happen? We all know that some 960s have a problem turning on. For some unplugging it for a minute or so solves the problem but for me I could miss a whole night's worth of tv watching. So I utilized the warranty's in-home repair and had a technician come to fix the problem. After working on the set he said unfortunately the replacement part he brought was defective and after installing it the set had the same problem. So he put the tv back together with all original parts and said they would re-order the part.
> 
> 
> I was disappointed but not too upset. I told him it's not his fault the part was defective. He left and I noticed the standby light was blinking but the set was off. I pressed the power button to turn the set on but it wouldn't come on.
> 
> 
> I left and then came back home. Pressed the power button. The tv came back on but now the picture was green tinted! Extremely green and out of focus! I tried to see if maybe my settings were off but that wasn't it. Then I tried to adjust my hue settings anyway. That didn't help. The shop was closed. I called first thing the next morning and they said it was the same defective part, it's all related! I asked if it was a coincidence that this part didn't make my picture green and out of focus until the technician touch my tv. They said all they could do is return with the new part once it arrived and replace it with my defective part. By the way, the part is a DZ board.
> 
> 
> Anyway, what do you guys think?



I think you should try unplugging your set for a minute and then see if it will come back with a normal picture. Had my DZ board replaced twice but for an unrelated problem of the TV shutting off after it warmed up. Hope the DZ board fixes your problem since these TVs are no longer being made. Sony QC is not what it used to be


----------



## christophersj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Chris,
> 
> 
> I cannot complain about SD broadcasts at least on the 960 because I've found that upconverting does improve picture quality.
> 
> 
> There are many factors that could lower the quality of SD transmissions. On an earlier post I noted my HD box picture output was set to HDMI instead of upcoversion (i.e., the 960 doing the upconversion from a 480I signal coming out the cable box). This also allowed me to make use of the DCR pallete and other advanced video features which improved the picture even further.



I wish I could have your experience. I dont think my Dish HD-DVR allows for different output methods for different programming. It all goes out HD over HDMI. So the Dish box must be doing the up-convert. The SD Dish channels are mush. The HD is mostly great.


The only glimpse I have seen of what you are talking about, and I mentioned this before, is on a couple of Over The Air digital SD channels here in L.A. -- like FOX11. It looks watchable and is comparable to an SDTV image.


All I know is, whenever I look at an S-video feed on my old circa 1994 Sony XBR SDTV, I know what good SD should look like. Too bad I gave it away to my friend when I got my XBR960. ;-)


Anyway, the good news for all of us is that this is soon to be a moot point. It'll be HD all the way! In fact, I'm gonna quit bitching and go watch some HD right now! HBO's Deadwood is coming on in HD -- and it rocks!!


-Christopher


----------



## jamesflames

I unplugged the set after it didn't turn on initially. After turning it on to see the green monster I've since pulled the plug on it so to speak. I have to otherwise the standby light will keep flashing. I wish it were as simple as that. Also, how is your set after the two DZ board switches? It's a shame so many of these tvs have so many problems. Is there a such thing as sony QC anymore?


----------



## Ladd

Quick question that I couldn't find answered in this discussion thread via a couple of searches:


Connected to my XBR960 is a cable company-supplied Motorola 6412 Phase III HD DVR which is configurable to outputing 720p or 1080i (all programming is recorded at whatever resolution it comes in at).


Any advantage one way or another to setting the DVR to ouput 720p or 1080i and letting the XBR960 display one resolution "natively" and scale the other?


Yes, I know that I could test this myself, but I was hoping that I wouldn't have to reinvent the wheel given the level of net wisdom available. Surely knowledgeable opinions can be had ...


----------



## RWetmore

A question for everyone:


I just took delivery of a brand new XBR960 on Sunday. I have heard that this particular set is prone to problems. Once already, I think mine lost the picture for a second. I'm not sure if it was the cable cutting out or the TV though. Prior to this, I was using the 30XS955, and never had any problems. I am wondering if perhaps the 34XS955 is more reliable than the 34XBR960. I don't care about the extra features of the 960...all I want is a trouble free/reliable SFP tube that will last years. Comments? Opinions? Thanks.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just took delivery of a brand new XBR960 on Sunday. I have heard that this particular set is prone to problems. Comments? Opinions? Thanks.



Depends on your definition of "prone for problems"


If Sony sold 750,000 of these sets and 1000 people had "problems" you have to decide if .13% is prone for problems.


Fortunately for me I'm not part of the .13% therefore, my set is not prone for problems.


----------



## gigaguy

I've had mine over a year, no problems, and I have it inside a cabinet (in TX) so I know it runs hotter than most. It was manufactured in May or June of 05.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Depends on your definition of "prone for problems"
> 
> 
> If Sony sold 750,000 of these sets and 1000 people had "problems" you have to decide if .13% is prone for problems.
> 
> 
> Fortunately for me I'm not part of the .13% therefore, my set is not prone for problems.



I mean a significantly higher percentage of problems than Sony's other XS955 series. 0.13% vs. 0.26% - I would consider insignificant. 5% vs. 10% - I would consider significant.


I love the PQ on this set, and the increase in size from the 30XS955 makes a big difference. I might want to consider returning this one and getting the 34XS955 instead if it will likely be more reliable.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I mean a significantly higher percentage of problems than Sony's other XS955 series. 0.13% vs. 0.26% - I would consider insignificant. 5% vs. 10% - I would consider significant.
> 
> 
> I love the PQ on this set, and the increase in size from the 30XS955 makes a big difference. I might want to consider returning this one and getting the 34XS955 instead if it will likely be more reliable.



Until Sony releases the actual sales numbers and number of service calls anyone who says the set is prone to problems is talking out the side of their neck.


I have the 960 and the 30XS955 both purchased at the same time neither has had a problem. The 960 replaced a 27" XBR purchased in December of 1989 that went to the shop once but is still working fine today. I hope to get the same life out of my 960.


If you're happy with the picture quality of the 960 keep it. But it sounds to me like you're trying to talk yourself out of it for some reason. You can get an XS and it could explode the next day or work for 15 years just like the 960. The choice is yours.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Until Sony releases the actual sales numbers and number of service calls anyone who says the set is prone to problems is talking out the side of their neck.



I know. It's all anecdotal. It just seems that from reading this board, there seem to be more problems with this set than the XS series. Could be pure coincidence.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the 960 and the 30XS955 both purchased at the same time neither has had a problem. The 960 replaced a 27" XBR purchased in December of 1989 that went to the shop once but is still working fine today. I hope to get the same life out of my 960.
> 
> 
> If you're happy with the picture quality of the 960 keep it. But it sounds to me like you're trying to talk yourself out of it for some reason. You can get an XS and it could explode the next day or work for 15 years just like the 960. The choice is yours.



I'm only concerned because of an apparent picture drop-out that occured yesterday. As I said though, I'm not sure if the cause was the TV or the signal. At any rate, I prefer the look of this set vs. the 34XS955, so I'd prefer to keep it. I also bought it at Best Buy and got a really good deal.


----------



## tonyleone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PathofNeo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anyone else besides JoeKing hooked up the Toshiba hd-dvd player to the 34xbr960? I figured that this could possibly be the absolute best hd experience one could have at 34".
> 
> 
> I'm considering a new plasma or lcd, but would sure love to hear more reviews of how the hd-dvd player looks with these tvs. Thanks.



i've had the Toshiba hd dvd player for about a week now. It is awesome!!! this blows away any hd material i receive from Directv and antena. the first time i watched an HD DVD was almost as good as the first time i had the XBR960 set up. the toshiba has great sound, PQ, and the upconverted standard dvds are great too (so far KIng Kong was the best upconverted title for me).

i remember a few posts in the past mentioned the 34" as a waste for HD, hardly any difference would be noticed from dvd to HD. the Toshiba HD DVD player is a great addition to this tv, and i can see the benefit of 1080i with no problem on this great TV.


----------



## forin

Well today was the day. My roommate moved out and took the only tv in the house with him. I figured it was time to break the bank and buy a hdtv for the household. I am a long time lurker and have done a few months of research (Thank you everyone for the information). Anyways to make a long story short I am a student on a limited budget and saw that my local BB was having a sale on a 1080p 37" Westinghouse that was in my price range. After 2 hours of playing around with the darn thing I was unsatisfied with the picture quality and the amount of ghosting the set displayed. Even after having the salesmen setup up a dvd player with an hdmi connection I was still unsatisfied with the picture.


In the far back they had their CRT's lined up and I saw an open box 970 sitting on the bottom shelf. After the negotations were done I headed to the checkout register. For whatever reason I thought to ask if any local BB's had any 960's in stock. Low and behold there were 2 left in the area and listed as on hand. Well I had him call up the first BB and ask if the unit was available and to figure out if it was OB or a display. After about 20 minutes he notified me that the unit was brand new and listed at 1199.99. A bit more than the negotiated price of the 970 but I figured what the hell and told him to have it shipped.


The darn thing should be here in a few days (free shipping too!!) I am freaking excited!!! The only question I have regarding this unit is.


What cables to order for my Samsung HD850. I know people have been experiencing artifacting images when using HDMI on lower end dvd players. Would component be a better choice than HDMI for DVD use?


Other than that I can't wait to play with her. I will be ordering a copy of Avia in a week or so pending on how well I can tune the set myself. Anyways thanks in advance for any input given.


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *forin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ...The darn thing should be here in a few days (free shipping too!!) I am freaking excited!!! The only question I have regarding this unit is.
> 
> 
> What cables to order for my Samsung HD850. I know people have been experiencing artifacting images when using HDMI on lower end dvd players. Would component be a better choice than HDMI for DVD use?
> 
> 
> Other than that I can't wait to play with her. I will be ordering a copy of Avia in a week or so pending on how well I can tune the set myself. Anyways thanks in advance for any input given.



Congrats on the new tv and welcome to the AVS Forum!










The 850 will only upscale the picture in HDMI mode. I tried the Samsung "850"upconverting player with my Sony set and found it exhibited black crush (details in the shadows lost). I was unable to mitigate this so I returned the player. In its place I purchased the Oppo OPDV971H upscaling DVD Player. What a fantastic player, especially for $200.


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Quick question that I couldn't find answered in this discussion thread via a couple of searches:
> 
> 
> Connected to my XBR960 is a cable company-supplied Motorola 6412 Phase III HD DVR which is configurable to outputing 720p or 1080i (all programming is recorded at whatever resolution it comes in at).
> 
> 
> Any advantage one way or another to setting the DVR to ouput 720p or 1080i and letting the XBR960 display one resolution "natively" and scale the other?
> 
> 
> Yes, I know that I could test this myself, but I was hoping that I wouldn't have to reinvent the wheel given the level of net wisdom available. Surely knowledgeable opinions can be had ...



I use this combination and find there's actually little difference between setting the 6412 at 1080i or 720p. I did notice slightly better PQ with 1080i for sports, so that's where I leave it. I recommend using component cables with the 6412, reather than HDMI. Many users have found the PQ with the HDMI interface to be of lower PQ, and also have found the implementation of HDMI on this box to have problems. Fo details look to the appropriate section on AVS for HD receivers.


----------



## Istari1

Ok, so there is an XBR960 at CC for $699 open Box, says it has everything and works fine, just Open Box. Should I buy this TV??? I was looking for a tube HDTV because I just dont think and LCD or Plasma are going to cut it for my eyes. CC had a 34XBR961 (I think that was it) for like $1100 then I saw the 960 for $699. I take it the 960 has no QAM, maybe buy an add on QAM tuner. Anyway, what do you all think? I tried reading as much of this thread as possible, but I cant wait 2 weeks to read all 145 pages










EDIT: I'm an idiot, just read the first specs page again, seems it does have QAM


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Quick question that I couldn't find answered in this discussion thread via a couple of searches:
> 
> 
> Connected to my XBR960 is a cable company-supplied Motorola 6412 Phase III HD DVR which is configurable to outputing 720p or 1080i (all programming is recorded at whatever resolution it comes in at).
> 
> 
> Any advantage one way or another to setting the DVR to ouput 720p or 1080i and letting the XBR960 display one resolution "natively" and scale the other?
> 
> 
> Yes, I know that I could test this myself, but I was hoping that I wouldn't have to reinvent the wheel given the level of net wisdom available. Surely knowledgeable opinions can be had ...



I found upconversion by the 960 slightly better than using the upconvert options on our SA 8300 HD DVR. Same holds true for our progressive scan DVD Player - we keep it at 4801.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Istari1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok, so there is an XBR960 at CC for $699 open Box, says it has everything and works fine, just Open Box. Should I buy this TV??? I was looking for a tube HDTV because I just dont think and LCD or Plasma are going to cut it for my eyes. CC had a 34XBR961 (I think that was it) for like $1100 then I saw the 960 for $699. I take it the 960 has no QAM, maybe buy an add on QAM tuner. Anyway, what do you all think? I tried reading as much of this thread as possible, but I cant wait 2 weeks to read all 145 pages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: I'm an idiot, just read the first specs page again, seems it does have QAM



There are a few factors to consider since Sony no longer produces the 960.


By "open box" does Circuit City mean refurbished? If so, would avoid taking over a set that was a problem for the original owner. If a display model, who knows how long it was used and if the lifespan of the tube was affected by store settings constantly at high contrast/color levels.


There are no KD34XBR961s. If the $1,100 unit is an XBR960 that is new in box go for it. It would be worth the extra $400 plus tax.


----------



## Istari1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There are a few factors to consider since Sony no longer produces the 960.
> 
> 
> By "open box" does Circuit City mean refurbished? If so, would avoid taking over a set that was a problem for the original owner. If a display model, who knows how long it was used and if the lifespan of the tube was affected by store settings constantly at high contrast/color levels.
> 
> 
> There are no KD34XBR961s. If the $1,100 unit is an XBR960 that is new in box go for it. It would be worth the extra $400 plus tax.



I'll take that into consideration, but $400 of a $1000 TV is nothing to scoff at. I'm confused as to why people are so worried about the lifespans of tubes now, have they started making them differently? I've had my same CRT since 1996 and it still looks fine. It still has a 30 day money back so I think I will try the Open Box and see what I think, if I hate it I can always return it. After 30 days I should be able to see any defects, and it still has a 12 month manufct. warranty.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *justsc* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I recommend using component cables with the 6412, reather than HDMI. Many users have found the PQ with the HDMI interface to be of lower PQ, and also have found the implementation of HDMI on this box to have problems.



The Moto is currently connected via component. I had also read of HDMI issues, with the audio, if I recall correctly.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I found upconversion by the 960 slightly better than using the upconvert options on our SA 8300 HD DVR. Same holds true for our progressive scan DVD Player - we keep it at 4801.



I definitely have my el cheapo DVD player set so the the XBR960 does the upconverting of the DVD signal.


It's less obvious to me with the Motorola 6412 pIII HD DVR as to which signal to pass through natively (and convert the other) and which signal to let the XBR960 convert.


Which resolution conversion is more demanding of a scaler? Taking 720p and changing it to 1080i or taking 1080i and changing it to 720p ...



6412 records programs at whatever resolution they come in at: 720p and 1080i


6412 can be set to output 720p or 1080i


So the 6412 will be either passing 720p and converting 1080i to 720p

or

the 6412 will be converting 720p to 1080i and passing 1080i.



Both the 6412 and the XBR960 are "expensive" boxes and with no electronics background on my part I have to idea as to which one might have the better scaler for either or both resolutions.


I was thinking that with the paucity of HD recorders out there, a fair number of XBR960 owners might have the Moto 6412pIII.


----------



## forin

I guess I will order a HDMI cable and hope for the best. Thanks again Justsc I really appreciate it.


----------



## cosymoon

Well, I echo many folks complaints about this model. SONY's QC is hell bound. I have seen others having problems turning on their TV. It happened to me a few days ago all of a sudden after 10 months of fun. The standby light is flashing (7 times then pause, repeat). Power cycling didn't work.


It's almost $2000 from CC and that's the best SONY can offer. I wouldn't recommend others to buy this unit. It's just not worth it going through all this trouble for a TV.


Anyhow, now I believe this particular model has a much higher rate of failure, likely higher than a few percents. SONY won't admit it. But someone should call some lawyers and file some class action lawsuit. My guess is that they have over-engineered the super fine pitch technology, which is NOT a reliable technology probably. It works sometimes, and has a high failure rate due to challenging power demand and requirement. No wonder this model is discontinued after a short life.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I definitely have my el cheapo DVD player set so the the XBR960 does the upconverting of the DVD signal.
> 
> 
> It's less obvious to me with the Motorola 6412 pIII HD DVR as to which signal to pass through natively (and convert the other) and which signal to let the XBR960 convert.
> 
> 
> Which resolution conversion is more demanding of a scaler? Taking 720p and changing it to 1080i or taking 1080i and changing it to 720p ...
> 
> 
> 
> 6412 records programs at whatever resolution they come in at: 720p and 1080i
> 
> 
> 6412 can be set to output 720p or 1080i
> 
> 
> So the 6412 will be either passing 720p and converting 1080i to 720p
> 
> or
> 
> the 6412 will be converting 720p to 1080i and passing 1080i.
> 
> 
> 
> Both the 6412 and the XBR960 are "expensive" boxes and with no electronics background on my part I have to idea as to which one might have the better scaler for either or both resolutions.
> 
> 
> I was thinking that with the paucity of HD recorders out there, a fair number of XBR960 owners might have the Moto 6412pIII.



Hi Ladd,


I experimented with upconversion through my HD DVR at both 720P and 1080i but found the non-hd stations a slightly bit better leaving the box at 480i (for non-HD, of course) and letting the 960 do the upconversion. Once the 960 receives a progressive scan signal of any kind (480P or 720P) it accepts the upconverted signal as is. Of course, you might find SD looking better through use of your Motorola than I did with my SA 8300 HD DVR. Best to compare how a good SD signal looks with each.


- Joe


----------



## Istari1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cosymoon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I echo many folks complaints about this model. SONY's QC is hell bound. I have seen others having problems turning on their TV. It happened to me a few days ago all of a sudden after 10 months of fun. The standby light is flashing (7 times then pause, repeat). Power cycling didn't work.
> 
> 
> It's almost $2000 from CC and that's the best SONY can offer. I wouldn't recommend others to buy this unit. It's just not worth it going through all this trouble for a TV.
> 
> 
> Anyhow, now I believe this particular model has a much higher rate of failure, likely higher than a few percents. SONY won't admit it. But someone should call some lawyers and file some class action lawsuit. My guess is that they have over-engineered the super fine pitch technology, which is NOT a reliable technology probably. It works sometimes, and has a high failure rate due to challenging power demand and requirement. No wonder this model is discontinued after a short life.



Not that I am totally disagreeing with you man, but that entire post is pretty much heresay. You are on an AV board where people have geomoetry off by 1 pixel and return a TV, or the color isnt 100% photorealistic so they post half a page about why the TV sucks. All TVs have problems. I've been in the market for a longgg time for a new HDTV and if all I did was read threads here on TVs I would have to come to the comclusion that every TV on the market right now has a 50% failure rate. The VAST majority of people who own this TV are not on this board. This is still in fact one of the best PQ HDTV's ever made, and some are willing to go through some hassle to get such a great picture.


That being said I just bought one and am knocking on wood right now that when I get it home it works. If it doesnt then I will probably be back in this thread telling you how right you were


----------



## RWetmore

A question for everyone:


How many of you have had the 960 for close to 2 years without any problems/glitches whatsoever?


----------



## patsan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A question for everyone:
> 
> 
> How many of you have had the 960 for close to 2 years without any problems/glitches whatsoever?



Mine is dead right now...waiting for a new board. Turns off by itself and I have 7 flashes, then a pause, then 7 flashes, etc.

Got mine 9/04.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *patsan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mine is dead right now...waiting for a new board. Turns off by itself and I have 7 flashes, then a pause, then 7 flashes, etc.
> 
> Got mine 9/04.



Were there problems/glitches that led up to complete failure, or did you have trouble free performance and then sudden failure?


----------



## patsan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Were there problems/glitches that led up the complete failure, or did you have trouble free performance and sudden failure?



Trouble free before this. Turned it off one night a few weeks ago, and it had a funny sound as it turned off. The following morning, I turned it on, and the picture looked funny (not the usual color)..then after about 30 seconds the screen turned bright orange, a vertical line in the center of the screen and it shut off.

I tried this a few times with the exact same thing happening. Then I noticed the 7 flashes on the front of the set.

The rest is history. I have to call the place today to find out where the heck the part is......


----------



## williamtassone




Amiable-Akuma said:


> Okay, well, now after having actually put it on it's new finally-assembled stand and turned it on - the TV doesn't work at all. My wife was the one who drove it home from CC and she said that she thinks she broke it by letting it roll all around the back of her SUV (god help me).
> 
> 
> QUOTE]
> 
> 
> 
> It would be the guillotine for her if she were my wife


----------



## DJF(NJ)




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A question for everyone:
> 
> 
> How many of you have had the 960 for close to 2 years without any problems/glitches whatsoever?



In two weeks it will be exactly 2 years of owning my 960. I only have some mild geometry issues that are barely noticeable and from what I understand, are quite common in CRTs of this size. I'll get that taken care of with a full professional calibration as soon as I upgrade to the newer HD formats. No other problems whatsover.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I experimented with upconversion through my HD DVR at both 720P and 1080i but found the non-hd stations a slightly bit better leaving the box at 480i (for non-HD, of course) and letting the 960 do the upconversion.



You bring up an valid point in considering options -- one that doesn't actually affect me but might other folks looking for wisdom.


I watch essentially zero SD programming via the Motoroal 6412 pIII HD DRV, so that considering the quality of 480i output/viewing wouldn't enter into my equation of trying to figure out if 780p or 1080i output is better for the XBR960. But I very much appreciate you bringing up a consideration that might be important to other folks.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A question for everyone:
> 
> 
> How many of you have had the 960 for close to 2 years without any problems/glitches whatsoever?




Mine is two years old this month. Wonderful set--never a problem, other than an initial service call for--you guessed it--the geometry. Of course, somehow I let them talk me into buying the extended warranty.


My frustration is my cataract--but I hope to fix that problem later this month!


Mark


----------



## extremegamer

I have a XBR960 and I have overscanning issues. Could someone assist me in correcting them? I need to bring the top and bottom as well as the left and right in a few notches and it'll be perfect. Thanks in advance.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A question for everyone:
> 
> 
> How many of you have had the 960 for close to 2 years without any problems/glitches whatsoever?



And this knowledge will benefit us in what way?










Until some one can get the actual number of sets sold these blind surveys do nothing but cause baseless speculation.


Every owner whose set has failed has a valid complaint against Sony. The question then becomes a) did Sony take care of the problem with minimal hassel and downtime or b) did they string the owner along with band-aid solutions rather than fix the problem?


If a) then accept the fact that no manufactured product is perfect and some will fail but the company stood behind it and rectified the situation.


If b) then Sony sucks and prove it to them by spending your hard earned dollars elsewhere.


----------



## rancher33




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A question for everyone:
> 
> 
> How many of you have had the 960 for close to 2 years without any problems/glitches whatsoever?



I have had mine for almost two years with absolutely no problems. I did touch up the convergence in the corners after owning it a couple of months.


----------



## cosymoon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Istari1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not that I am totally disagreeing with you man, but that entire post is pretty much heresay. You are on an AV board where people have geomoetry off by 1 pixel and return a TV, or the color isnt 100% photorealistic so they post half a page about why the TV sucks. All TVs have problems. I've been in the market for a longgg time for a new HDTV and if all I did was read threads here on TVs I would have to come to the comclusion that every TV on the market right now has a 50% failure rate. The VAST majority of people who own this TV are not on this board. This is still in fact one of the best PQ HDTV's ever made, and some are willing to go through some hassle to get such a great picture.
> 
> 
> That being said I just bought one and am knocking on wood right now that when I get it home it works. If it doesnt then I will probably be back in this thread telling you how right you were




I thought the way when I bought it as you now. I thought well, SONY was a great brand, I didn't give much thoughts baout what many others have experienced. Good luck man. I hope yours lasts, but u know the record isn't good. I am very pissed off right now. Now I think about it, if this thing is really that reliable and great, why did they discontinued it in a rush?


There are as many people who have this power-on pronblem but do not know about this or other internet boards as people who don't have problem but know about this board. In short, it evens out. There are too many people having problems.


BTW, mine was made on August 8, 2005, barely a month before I bought it from CC.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You bring up an valid point in considering options -- one that doesn't actually affect me but might other folks looking for wisdom.
> 
> 
> I watch essentially zero SD programming via the Motoroal 6412 pIII HD DRV, so that considering the quality of 480i output/viewing wouldn't enter into my equation of trying to figure out if 780p or 1080i output is better for the XBR960. But I very much appreciate you bringing up a consideration that might be important to other folks.



Hi Ladd,


Thank you for the nice words.


- Joe


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BTV Mark* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Mine is two years old this month. Wonderful set--never a problem, other than an initial service call for--you guessed it--the geometry. Of course, somehow I let them talk me into buying the extended warranty.
> 
> 
> My frustration is my cataract--but I hope to fix that problem later this month!
> 
> 
> Mark



Hi Mark,


My cataracts started to act up the same time I got my 960 (a year ago). The first one was removed in December and the other is scheduled to be removed next month. If this is the first time for you, don't worry at all about the procedure - it's quick, simple, painless and free of any discomfort. You will be amazed with the clarity of vision once it's gone.


Be warned, however, that after the procedure you will experience frustration...., with my better vision I found the settings for my 960 were way off, especially for picture. brightness and DCR pallete.


- Joe


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A question for everyone:
> 
> 
> How many of you have had the 960 for close to 2 years without any problems/glitches whatsoever?



Had my 960 for a year and after two weeks I had to unplug the set to get the picture on. Sony Customer Service advised me to plug the set directly into the wall socket and avoid use of a surge protector (the 960 needs a tremendous amount of power to properly degause when turned on and this is limited by surge protectors). Since that time this problem re-occured only once, and there was no affect on picture quality whatsoever. I'm completely happy with the 960 and would recommend it to anyone who can still get it new in box.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Had my 960 for a year and after two weeks I had to unplug the set to get the picture on. Sony Customer Service advised me to plug the set directly into the wall socket and avoid use of a surge protector (the 960 needs a tremendous amount of power to properly degause when turned on and this is limited by surge protectors). Since that time this problem re-occured only once, and there was no affect on picture quality whatsoever. I'm completely happy with the 960 and would recommend it to anyone who can still get it new in box.



Thanks for the detailed response. I'm using a surge protector (PURE AV PF60), and haven't had that happen yet.


Another question for everyone:


When turning on the set, how many times does the red light blink before you get a picture? Mine does it 10, but sometimes also 11 times, which seems weird. Shouldn't it be 10 blinks each time?


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *extremegamer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a XBR960 and I have overscanning issues. Could someone assist me in correcting them? I need to bring the top and bottom as well as the left and right in a few notches and it'll be perfect. Thanks in advance.




I bookmarked these posts, but never got around to messing with the settings.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post7057568 

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post6723557 


Good luck.


----------



## Istari1

Anyone know a good place to get the Sony stand for this TV? Or is that stand even any good? Looks like it only has 1 AV rack spot, which I need about 4. Looking to spend aroun $200 on a stand, what do you all have your sitting on? Thanks.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Mark,
> 
> 
> Be warned, however, that after the procedure you will experience frustration...., with my better vision I found the settings for my 960 were way off, especially for picture. brightness and DCR pallete.
> 
> 
> - Joe




Hi, Joe. Thanks for the good wishes and encouragement! I think I will enjoy the set a lot more with clearer vision!


Thanks again,


Mark


----------



## Istari1

Ok all, just plugged in my new 960 for the first time and I got an issue. I plugged in my cable connection this morning and let it do the auto program for analog and digital channels. Came home and it had found quite a few channels. But I dont see any HD channels and the regular SD channels looks VERY bad. The colors are "wavy" and super blocky. So I tried going thru my cable box instead and the picture is fine that way. . . what gives? Is the tuner screwed on this thing or maybe my signal strength isnt what is needed for this box? Thanks all I cant return this thing w/o a ton of hassle so I hope I can get it working. . . guess there is always the warranty option.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cosymoon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There are as many people who have this power-on pronblem but do not know about this or other internet boards as people who don't have problem but know about this board. In short, it evens out. There are too many people having problems.



Yet another statistically valid survey.


----------



## Istari1

Well the TV (tuner?) seems to have fixed itself I watched TV all last night and the weird color problem was gone. Maybe I just had a loose cable connection or something. I must say, SDTV looks pretty damn good on this set. Even the Wide Zoom mode kept the picture looking very nice. It added a slight bit of overscan, but I can live with that on just everyday TV.


Is there something special I need to do to get QAM working? I did a channel scan yesterday, should I try do to it again? I'm not even really sure how you find the QAM channels, should they just show up when I am flipping through the channels? Thanks all.


----------



## DJF(NJ)




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Istari1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone know a good place to get the Sony stand for this TV? Or is that stand even any good? Looks like it only has 1 AV rack spot, which I need about 4. Looking to spend aroun $200 on a stand, what do you all have your sitting on? Thanks.



Scroll back 2 or 3 pages and someone posted a link from Circuit City(I think?) for a stand(non-Sony) he was using for the 960. IMO, the Sony stand(which I have) matches the unit very nicely, but is too low off the ground.


----------



## Decharo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Istari1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone know a good place to get the Sony stand for this TV? Or is that stand even any good? Looks like it only has 1 AV rack spot, which I need about 4. Looking to spend aroun $200 on a stand, what do you all have your sitting on? Thanks.



I have the Sony stand, it looks great with the TV but it is expensive.


It comes with the one glass shelve but if you put it in its lowest spot you can stack a few components, for around fifty buck more you can purchase an additional shelf (if you don't want to stack). For the money they charge for this stand the additional shelf should be included.


After I purchased it from Crutchfield I came across this post.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...43#post8074743


----------



## Decharo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DJF(NJ)* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Scroll back 2 or 3 pages and someone posted a link from Circuit City(I think?) for a stand(non-Sony) he was using for the 960. IMO, the Sony stand(which I have) matches the unit very nicely, but is too low off the ground.



I agree with the stand being to low. Because the TV is very heavy and I have it placed in a corner and accessing the back is a pain in the butt. I went to the Po and purchased five casters((3) locking for the front, and (2) non-locking for the back). I can pull it away from the corner and make any connections I want then roll it back in. Along with improving the mobility of the TV it also elevated it up a few inches more and now the height is fine.


----------



## jw138

An interesting story about my 34XBR960N with a repair/cost question at the end...


In March of this year I purchased a 34XBR960N from an online retailer. At the same time I purchased a television stand at a local retailer that was rated to hold 220 lbs. The TV comes in at 196 lbs so I figured it was safe enough. I was wrong. About a month later I came home to find the broken television stand and the TV laying face down on the floor. I picked it up and found the four corners smashed in slightly. Not aesthetically pleasing but not that big of deal to me. The TV still powers on and works fine except for one thing... some colors along the left hand side of the screen now display incorrectly.


I contacted the local retailer and showed them pictures of the damaged TV. To my surprise, they soon after quickly refunded me the full cost of the stand that broke AND the total amount that I paid for the TV and the accompanying extended warranty. I'm very pleased with the way that they handled it.


I next contacted the online retailer to see if there was anything in addition that could be done about the damage through the warranty. I was told that all issues had to go through Sony for the first year that I owned the TV. The extended warranty did not kick in until after Sony's warranty expired. I contacted Sony and they gave me the number of a local Sony repair shop. As I expected, falls from faulty television stands are not covered.


The local repair shop said that within CRT tubes there is a very thin film of a tin foil like substance that is spot welded to the tube. During falls, spot welds can fail and the tin foil can become detached. This is what they told me causes the discoloration. I was told that there is nothing that can be done short of replacing the tube. Is that really true? I was also told that the damaged corners of the television could affect the ability of the TV shell to support the heavy tube so the plastic face plate might need to be replaced as well. The estimated repair costs I was given are:


o New tube = $991.78

o New face plate = $197.92

o Tax = $77.33

o Recycling fee = $50

o Labor = $299

o Shipping fee for parts = $130

o TOTAL = $1746.03


This pretty much comes close to the cost of a brand new XBR960N!!! Unfortunately, these televisions are no longer being sold. Does the repair estimate seem far too high or is this reasonable? They also said that I would have to deliver the TV to their shop. They would not come to my home.


Any words of wisdom or advice?


I've attached three photos of the damage.


I may just elect to deal with the discoloration until I can pick up a SED TV in a few years.


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DJF(NJ)* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Scroll back 2 or 3 pages and someone posted a link from Circuit City(I think?) for a stand(non-Sony) he was using for the 960. IMO, the Sony stand(which I have) matches the unit very nicely, but is too low off the ground.




Here's the link again:

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Z-Lin...oductDetail.do 


I've had it a year now and I'm extremely satisfied with it. If you are setting it up on carpet, do youself a favor and go to Kmart and look for the set of 8" Super Sliders for $10. They really work well if you need to move the unit to make connections or clean behind it. The instructions for the sliders do say they work on hardwood floors as well, I just don't have any personal experience with it.Good luck.


----------



## christophersj

Here is my 2 cents about build quality on my XBR960N.


Its fine. Had it for 6 months and no major problems at all. Not a one.


There ARE some tweaks that are needed to satisfy my finicky taste (black crush, RGB convergence, ect.) so I hope to learn the hidden Service Menu.


-Christopher


----------



## RM23J8G

I found two "open box" 960s at my local CC. One of them has a scratched CRT, so that one's out. These are the only two 960s anywhere within 100 miles apparently, as BB has zero of any kind.

The other has some dings on the cabinet, but the CRT is fine. The big problem with this one is the convergence is quite noticeably out....horizontally only. That's the only obvious flaw....even the purity looks fine.

I've never had one of these sets, so I haven' had a chance to find out what is in the menus.

Is this kind of convergence fairly easy to do from the service menus? I work in broadcast television, so I'm familiar with the principles of convergence...I even have some test signal generators I could use externally if there is nothing internal to the set for this purpose.

This is a special weekend here in VA, as it's tax free weekend on some items, but CC is giving the discount on everything in the store.

These two open box 960s are marked $769.....a pretty decent price from what I've seen. I'm just concerned about ever getting it into satisfactory convergence....if I can't do it myself.

Anyone have any experience doing this? Should I get this thing?? Gotta decide pretty quick....

thanks


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jw138* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I contacted the local retailer and showed them pictures of the damaged TV. To my surprise, they soon after quickly refunded me the full cost of the stand that broke AND the total amount that I paid for the TV and the accompanying extended warranty. I'm very pleased with the way that they handled it.
> 
> 
> Any words of wisdom or advice?
> 
> 
> I've attached three photos of the damage.
> 
> 
> I may just elect to deal with the discoloration until I can pick up a SED TV in a few years.



A few years is a long time to watch a TV with that kind of picture.


Since you got a full refund and have nothing to loose so to speak I'd pull the cover off and try and adjust/duct tape/do whatever to get the tin back in place.


----------



## Yung




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LongRufus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here's the link again:
> 
> http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Z-Lin...oductDetail.do
> 
> 
> I've had it a year now and I'm extremely satisfied with it. If you are setting it up on carpet, do youself a favor and go to Kmart and look for the set of 8" Super Sliders for $10. They really work well if you need to move the unit to make connections or clean behind it. The instructions for the sliders do say they work on hardwood floors as well, I just don't have any personal experience with it.Good luck.



Thats a nice price for the stand. Its a copy of the Bell'O design (AVSC-2103) which I have that cost nearly 3x as much, but it holds up the xbr960 nicely.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RM23J8G* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I found two "open box" 960s at my local CC. One of them has a scratched CRT, so that one's out. These are the only two 960s anywhere within 100 miles apparently, as BB has zero of any kind.
> 
> The other has some dings on the cabinet, but the CRT is fine. The big problem with this one is the convergence is quite noticeably out....horizontally only. That's the only obvious flaw....even the purity looks fine.
> 
> I've never had one of these sets, so I haven' had a chance to find out what is in the menus.
> 
> Is this kind of convergence fairly easy to do from the service menus? I work in broadcast television, so I'm familiar with the principles of convergence...I even have some test signal generators I could use externally if there is nothing internal to the set for this purpose.
> 
> This is a special weekend here in VA, as it's tax free weekend on some items, but CC is giving the discount on everything in the store.
> 
> These two open box 960s are marked $769.....a pretty decent price from what I've seen. I'm just concerned about ever getting it into satisfactory convergence....if I can't do it myself.
> 
> Anyone have any experience doing this? Should I get this thing?? Gotta decide pretty quick....
> 
> thanks



Yes, horizontal convergence is relatively easy to fix via service menu adjustments. Vertical convergence can only be fixed with magnets.


----------



## RWetmore

Another question:


Does your set have an electronic high frequency "hum". In a perfectly quite room, I can hear mine from 10-12 feet away. Can you hear it on your set? Thanks.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Another question:
> 
> 
> Does your set have an electronic high frequency "hum". In a perfectly quite room, I can hear mine from 10-12 feet away. Can you hear it on your set? Thanks.




Not here.


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Another question:
> 
> 
> Does your set have an electronic high frequency "hum". In a perfectly quite room, I can hear mine from 10-12 feet away. Can you hear it on your set? Thanks.



No such noise here either.


----------



## RWetmore

What if you put your head up the back or side of the set? Do you hear anything?


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What if you put your head up the back or side of the set? Do you hear anything?



I can hear a *very* faint buzzing sound if i put my ear up to one of the side vents, but i had to shut everything else off in my room to hear it and I cant hear it sitting in front of the TV, Even up close.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Istari1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not that I am totally disagreeing with you man, but that entire post is pretty much heresay. You are on an AV board where people have geomoetry off by 1 pixel and return a TV, or the color isnt 100% photorealistic so they post half a page about why the TV sucks. All TVs have problems.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Until some one can get the actual number of sets sold these blind surveys do nothing but cause baseless speculation.
> 
> 
> Every owner whose set has failed has a valid complaint against Sony. The question then becomes a) did Sony take care of the problem with minimal hassel and downtime or b) did they string the owner along with band-aid solutions rather than fix the problem?
> 
> 
> If a) then accept the fact that no manufactured product is perfect and some will fail but the company stood behind it and rectified the situation.
> 
> 
> If b) then Sony sucks and prove it to them by spending your hard earned dollars elsewhere.



The head of Service for the State of Florida for Tweeter admitted to me 18 months ago that this set was known for having problems.


This was after they replaced 2 910s and after they replaced the first 960. We went through the warehouse through 4 new in box units until we found a 960 that the convergence could be made right through the service menu. Final adjustment was done in home. I have no idea what happened to the other sets - I don't want to know.


Fact is, they wanted to credit me what I paid towards another set - so he had no reason to not be upfront about it. Quite frankly, he did not want to keep sending 960s out to my house that could not be setup properly (and I assue you I was in no way speaking something being off 1 pixel).


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I can hear a *very* faint buzzing sound if i put my ear up to one of the side vents, but i had to shut everything else off in my room to hear it and I cant hear it sitting in front of the TV, Even up close.



Thanks. This is the sound I'm hearing. I generally can't hear it unless everything is off (A/C fan, refrigerator, computer, etc.), including the TV volume. When everything is off, I can hear it from 12+ feet away even though it is a "faint" sound.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jw138* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I contacted the local retailer and showed them pictures of the damaged TV. To my surprise, they soon after quickly refunded me the full cost of the stand that broke AND the total amount that I paid for the TV and the accompanying extended warranty. I'm very pleased with the way that they handled it.
> 
> 
> I may just elect to deal with the discoloration until I can pick up a SED TV in a few years.



Does this mean you got a full refund and was able to retain the damaged set at the same time? That is really something.


Yes, those corner discolorations take detract from some of the beauty of the set and it's a shame you can no longer get hold of a brand new one. As an alternative, however, I've seen the Sony 32" and 40" LCDs. While not the 960 they both exhibited very impressive picture quality (including the black levels). The 40" set is now going for less than $3,000 and the 32" set probably a little more than the refund you received. Instead of getting an ED TV down the road you might want to consider these models now or in a few more months when the prices might drop even more.


Good luck.


----------



## bobhoppel




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A question for everyone:
> 
> 
> How many of you have had the 960 for close to 2 years without any problems/glitches whatsoever?




Two plus years and absolutely NO problems --- "knock on wood!!!"


----------



## pt270

25 months with no problems except i do have the buzzing sound that started about a year ago,went to a couple of places that sold this set and heard the same buzzing on the sets they had on display.Still love the picture and features this set has.Iam just going to keep it until something breaks then replace it with a lcd display.I feel i have gotten my moneys worth for the past two years of owning this great set.


----------



## mst3k

I was cleaning my screen yesterday, with a dampened cloth as suggested, and half of the Non reflective coating came off on the left side. At nite you cannot even tell, but during the day it just looks like crap. I am in touch with service and so far no one knows what to do.

Mine is just over a year old.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mst3k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was cleaning my screen yesterday, with a dampened cloth as suggested, and half of the Non reflective coating came off on the left side. At nite you cannot even tell, but during the day it just looks like crap. I am in touch with service and so far no one knows what to do.
> 
> Mine is just over a year old.



You have the "N" model, right?


----------



## gigaguy

Were you using any cleaners, or just water? strange. I've heard of it coming off but I think it was with a chemical cleaner.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gigaguy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Were you using any cleaners, or just water? strange. I've heard of it coming off but I think it was with a chemical cleaner.



Just to restate for the record: DO NOT USE ANY CHEMICAL SUBSTANCES ON THE TV!


----------



## JackXBR

Thanks for the advice on my 1st post in this thread. I was able to locate a 960 locally from a private seller. 2 yrs old and in perfect shape. Previous owners stated it had been used very little and I'm inclined to believe them. $850 w/ stand.


I've had the 960 for over a month now. It has the best PQ I've ever seen. It's been on every day so far and has been flawless (save for minor geometry issues - bowing out in upper left-hand corner and to a lesser extent upper right-hand corner). Definitely reference quality HD and DVD (perhaps studio monitor quality?). SD is better than on my old set, especially on the HD channels. Like most high-end components, the 960 absolutely reveals the quality of your sources.


My settings: Pro, Pic 32, Bright 36, Color (31) and Hue Default, Sharp 0, ClearEdge Off, HDMI connection from cable box. Color temp for me is Neutral, Color Axis at Default. Yes, these settings emphasize the aforementioned red push slightly, but they are preferrable to me. I find skin tones to look a bit jaundiced on Monitor and I've grown used to the red. I actually find it amazing that this tube can produce such vivid colors. Have you guys seen the Mitsubishi HD commercial? A pro calibration is defintely in order though for true color accuracy, sometime down the road.


I compared LCD and Plasma PQ after a month of 960 viewing. The only sets I saw that could compare were the Pioneer Elite plasmas. Big is nice, yes, but the 960 with its remarkable clarity and detail still produces a better 3D effect to my eyes.


Thanks for all the input on this thread. I read the entire thing - seriously.


P.S. I freakin' love this TV. I stare at it every day in complete awe.







I do find myself tuning-in almost exclusively to HD sources now, however.


Edit: Wanted to add that I've had the 960 hooked up to a PS Audio High Current Ultimate Outlet from day 1. This is a non-limiting line conditioner/surge protector that produces as much power as a wall outlet. I have had no problems whatsoever de-gaussing or on power-up.


----------



## mst3k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just to restate for the record: DO NOT USE ANY CHEMICAL SUBSTANCES ON THE TV!





Ok, no, I wasn't using any cleaners. Its just weird that the coating only came off on the left side. It just looks aweful. Now that the damage is done, does anyone know of a cleaner that would actually remove the non reflective coating all together?? This would actually work for me if its doable. The left side without the coating still produces a beautiful picture.


Any ideas?


Oh and NO I don't have the N version.


Mine is the 2005 KD-34SBR960.


----------



## gigaguy

Strange, Oh I have the same 960 version. Weird that it came off.


Another poster once said he removed his film accidentally too, it lightens up the dark screen. I think he was pulling off a sticker or something.

I don't know what you should use, I guess whatever you did before. Yea, I don;t think it hurts it to be removed.


----------



## mst3k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gigaguy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Strange, Oh I have the same 960 version. Weird that it came off.
> 
> 
> Another poster once said he removed his film accidentally too, it lightens up the dark screen. I think he was pulling off a sticker or something.
> 
> I don't know what you should use, I guess whatever you did before. Yea, I don;t think it hurts it to be removed.




I actually like the way the side without the coating looks better. I would love to be able to get the rest of it off, but like I said it only came off on the left side. I figured WTH, Some of it has come off Ill just remove all of it, but I will be darned if any cleaner I try even makes a dent it it. I don't understand why only "some" of it came off and I wasn't even using a cleaner.



If only I could find the magic cleaner.


----------



## Ennui

I have used "Goof Off" on tough adhesives. Check goof-off.com for info.


Good luck.


----------



## mst3k

Funny you would suggest that, I just got back from the local hardware store with this exact product. I now have all but about 1/4 of my screen clear of the coating. Man its slow going and a lot of rubbing but this stuff is actually working.


Thanks.



Ok, I have now spent 4 hours applying and rubbing and buffing. Its dark now. Im done with this project for tonite. I am going to go buy more Goof-off tomorrow as there is still a trace of the coating on the right side. I can only see it with the TV off. With the TV ON......................maybe its just cause I worked so hard today cleaning it, but I swear my picture looks way better without the Non-reflective coating.



DO NOT DO WHAT I DID. Much of my coating came off just doing the normal cleaning of the screen, I don't have an explanation why. I had a decision to make. Ignore it or find a way to remove it. Im still working on removing it. Im not dissapointed in my choice, tho it is still a work in progress.


----------



## mst3k

Ok, I just have to say one thing. The cleaning regime as suggested by Sony is accurate. However, based on what I just went through. For some reason, the coating on the left side on my particular TV was simply not as bonded to the screen as was/is the right side. The left side coating came off with a soft cloth and water. The middle/to right side coating seriously required the aggressive cleaner suggested and used. Lets just say, the only reason I even had to deal with this was because of how easily the coating came off on the left side. By contrast, removing the coating from the right side has been a ***** and a half. Meaning..........Im guessing not too many people will have to deal with what Ive been going thru. The coating is NOT, repeat, NOT easy to remove if bonded to the screen properly. Im pretty sure, mine is a minority case.


----------



## RWetmore

Let us know if you really think it looks better without the coding. Also, how much more reflection do you get during the day with it off?


BTW, I thought it was only the "N" model that had the coating????


----------



## sPACkMANbr

Be careful not to get the GoofOff on any of the plastic, and be sure to clean it off thoroughly if you do. Products like GoofOff can discolor or even "melt" some plastics, so be careful during "Round Two" of coating removal.


The N model is the newer model and does not have the coating, likely because of this very problem.


----------



## mst3k

Yeah I had to be careful around the plastic. Well Ive hit a brick all. The stuff worked great and removed virtually all of the coating except for some smeary stuff on the far right hand side of the screen that simply refuses to come off. Any suggestions?


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mst3k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yeah I had to be careful around the plastic. Well Ive hit a brick all. The stuff worked great and removed virtually all of the coating except for some smeary stuff on the far right hand side of the screen that simply refuses to come off. Any suggestions?



You may want to try some glass polish from an auto store. But test it in a very small corner first. It has "grit" in it to smooth out tiny scratches.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mst3k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and NO I don't have the N version.
> 
> 
> Mine is the 2005 KD-34SBR960.



This may be the cause of your problem. Do you have a bootleg set or is that a typo. Shouldn't it be a 34*X*BR960?


----------



## mst3k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This may be the cause of your problem. Do you have a bootleg set or is that a typo. Shouldn't it be a 34*X*BR960?



Thats funny. Yes it is indeed KD-34XBR960











Ill try the glass polish stuff.





Does anyone know if the front of the screen is the actual CRT or a piece of glass in front of the CRT? That would be awesome if I could just get a new piece of glass but Im betting its the actual CRT.


----------



## RM23J8G

I called Sony today to ask about getting someone out here to get this 960 right.

I told them it was way out of convergence and the focus was a little soft. They said "does it have a flash focus button? If so, try that".

I don't see any such thing, nor any mention of it in the manual. What's the story on it?

To my eye, the CRT looks weak, but we shall see. This was an open box set at CC, with a build date of Dec 2004, and I took it because it was the last one in the state that they had and told me they couldn't order any more from Sony....so this one has got to be made right!

Has anyone had any luck with Sony authorized service being able to get these things looking proper in the field?

thanks


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RM23J8G* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> IThey said "does it have a flash focus button? If so, try that".
> 
> I don't see any such thing, nor any mention of it in the manual. What's the story on it?



That was an "auto-convergence" feature on the CRT RPTV. Nothing to do with your DV CRT.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RM23J8G* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I called Sony today to ask about getting someone out here to get this 960 right.
> 
> I told them it was way out of convergence and the focus was a little soft. They said "does it have a flash focus button? If so, try that".
> 
> I don't see any such thing, nor any mention of it in the manual. What's the story on it?
> 
> To my eye, the CRT looks weak, but we shall see. This was an open box set at CC, with a build date of Dec 2004, and I took it because it was the last one in the state that they had and told me they couldn't order any more from Sony....so this one has got to be made right!
> 
> Has anyone had any luck with Sony authorized service being able to get these things looking proper in the field?
> 
> thanks



You can try the focus adjustments in the service menu, especially overall focus (I believe QDPC), but the adjustments can only do so much. I just recently got a new 960, and and really lucked out with the focus - it's really excellent even at the edges. Prior to this, I owned the 30XS955, and the focus was not as good even after significant adjustments. This suggests to me that how the focus is calibrated during manufacturing may be the most critical, so I would call out a service tech if the SM adjustments don't yield significant improvment.


----------



## RM23J8G

I got into the service menu, and did a little tweaking with the focus and convergence with Ken's test signals.

The focus is marginally better, but still not anywhere what it should be. At this point, I don't want to do any hole drilling in the back panel and go in and adjust the "big" focus control. It really looks like a weak CRT to me. This thing was on the floor at CC in "vivid" mode for at least the last 8 months since I've been shopping for one of these.

I scheduled a Sony service visit for Monday. We'll see if they can get it right....


----------



## Garvey

Decharo:


> Quote:
> I went to the Po and purchased five casters((3) locking for the front, and (2) non-locking for the back). I can pull it away from the corner and make any connections I want then roll it back in. Along with improving the mobility of the TV it also elevated it up a few inches more and now the height is fine.



Forgive my ignorance, but what's "the Po," and how did you attach the casters to your Sony stand?


----------



## Mighty Joe

Hello everyone, I'm new to the forum and hoping for advice regarding a deal I have found.


Due to the forum rules I suppose I can't post an exact amount, but my Fry's Electronics has a 960N floor model selling for less than $700. The unit is in very nice physical condition and looks almost brand new. I have no idea what these sets are going for since they're basically not made anymore, so if someone could tell me if that is a good deal I'd be most appreciative.


I'm a bit apprehensive about buying a floor model, but for the price it's hard to look the other way. I had them place it on hold for me and I'm wondering if it's some kind of "OMG why haven't you bought it yet" kind of deal. Thanks everyone!


Joe Young


----------



## LilGator




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mighty Joe* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello everyone, I'm new to the forum and hoping for advice regarding a deal I have found.
> 
> 
> Due to the forum rules I suppose I can't post an exact amount, but my Fry's Electronics has a 960N floor model selling for less than $700. The unit is in very nice physical condition and looks almost brand new. I have no idea what these sets are going for since they're basically not made anymore, so if someone could tell me if that is a good deal I'd be most appreciative.
> 
> 
> I'm a bit apprehensive about buying a floor model, but for the price it's hard to look the other way. I had them place it on hold for me and I'm wondering if it's some kind of "OMG why haven't you bought it yet" kind of deal. Thanks everyone!
> 
> 
> Joe Young



Nah, wouldn't bother with it ... you can do way better than that ...


Which Fry's is this again ?


----------



## Mighty Joe

Well I took a look at it again today and noticed that the man. date was October of 2005, so it is approaching a year old. I also notice the convergence was WAY off in the top right corner mostly vertically. As far as I know vertical convergence isn't easy to adjust so that was basically a deal breaker for me. It's a shame, because the geometry on this set looked almost perfect. The letterboxing was absolutely straight and there were no noticible bows or warps. Ahh well, we can't win them all I guess.


----------



## paulnccu

folks:


i have a 960 and currently subscribe to TW basic cable service for 11 bucks a month. for that, i get the usual assortment of channels AND, through my QAM tuner, all of the five networks in HDTV (PBS, NBC, ABC, FOX, CBS).


my question is this: if i upgrade to digital cable, can i split the TW cable and: (1) attach one strand to a cablecard and use my 960's cablecard slot, and (2) use the second strand to hook up to the 960's 75-ohm CABLE TV antenna connection? (Please note: i am aware there is a second, "regular" 75-ohm antenna connection but it has nothing to do with my inquiry here).


why would I want to do this, assuming it can be done? Because quite often, in my area in raleigh, nc, the "Basic" cable tier and the "OTA" HDTV QAM offerings are frequently expanded on a test basis to include things like TNT-HD, ESPN-HD, etc. And sometimes for months at a time.


thus, has anybody else ever split their incoming TW cable between a cablecard connection and a 75-ohm connection at the cable antenna input? does using a cablecard require you to choose the cable TV antenna on the remote? I would assume that if it does, my idea for splitting will not work.


just fyi: i've tried to ask TW this but they have no clue what i'm even asking (or are pretending to have no clue)


thanks much for any help you can be...paul


----------



## Decharo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Garvey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Decharo:
> 
> 
> 
> Forgive my ignorance, but what's "the Po," and how did you attach the casters to your Sony stand?



Garvey,

Sorry for the slang, but "the Po" = Home Depot. I purchased 3/4" round head screws (think they were sheetmetal type with #3 phillips tips). Drilled pilot hole in base first and then drove screws in with a cordless drill.


Originally I had planned to make a subbase with 3/4" MDF and attach casters to that and then attach subbase to stand, but after acquiring stand I found that was not necessary. The base is thick enough to attach casters directly to.


----------



## MotorCityJoe

Greetings gentlemen. I am a new proud owner of a Sony KD-34XBR960. I've had the tv for about a week and found these forums after a quick google search. I must say that i am impressed with wealth of knowledge available here. My set has had no problems and i am extremely pleased with the quality of the picture.


----------



## Chorgey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MotorCityJoe* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am a new proud owner of a Sony KD-34XBR960. I've had the tv for about a week and found these forums after a quick google search. I must say that i am impressed with wealth of knowledge available here. My set has had no problems and i am extremely pleased with the quality of the picture.



Welcome MCJ. Doesn't it feel great to be part of an elite group? Before purchasing my 960, I did quite a bit of research, including AVS, Consumer Reports and CNET. A great investment for years to come.


Another Proud owner!


----------



## MotorCityJoe

Thanks for the welcome Chorgey. Yes it does feel great. I was shopping for a new tv to replace my aging 32' Sanyo sdtv and came across some reviews online. The cnet review is the one that really sold me. I got the tv and the matching stand for $700, from a mom and pop home theatre store in my hometown.


----------



## DJF(NJ)

Hey everyone. Just got the Toshiba HD-XA1 HD DVD player for my 960. Also bought 'The Chronicles of Riddick' for it. I have to say, this is the finest HD picture I have EVER seen!!!! I'm quite familiar with the 'Riddick' movie from DVD, as well as seeing it on HD cable. And this is a noticeable difference in picture quality. No pixelation/aritifacts when seeing explosions, fast motion and the like. It's amazing at all the detail that shows on close-ups and also things that are distant! Sound seems cleaner as well! Highly recommended! Now I just need an ISF calibration done to be complete!


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DJF(NJ)* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey everyone. Just got the Toshiba HD-XA1 HD DVD player for my 960. Also bought 'The Chronicles of Riddick' for it. I have to say, this is the finest HD picture I have EVER seen!!!! I'm quite familiar with the 'Riddick' movie from DVD, as well as seeing it on HD cable. And this is a noticeable difference in picture quality. No pixelation/aritifacts when seeing explosions, fast motion and the like. It's amazing at all the detail that shows on close-ups and also things that are distant! Sound seems cleaner as well! Highly recommended! Now I just need an ISF calibration done to be complete!




I vouch for this and agree 110 percent. Both Riddick films are easy demo/show off material for HD-DVD and HD in general right now.


Just wait until you get that ISF job done. That's when you'll really be blown away.


It honestly is like looking out of a window with some of these high grade discs, like the Riddick films, at least in terms of PQ.


Amazing!


----------



## richardmn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paulnccu* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> folks:
> 
> 
> i have a 960 and currently subscribe to TW basic cable service for 11 bucks a month. for that, i get the usual assortment of channels AND, through my QAM tuner, all of the five networks in HDTV (PBS, NBC, ABC, FOX, CBS).
> 
> 
> my question is this: if i upgrade to digital cable, can i split the TW cable and: (1) attach one strand to a cablecard and use my 960's cablecard slot, and (2) use the second strand to hook up to the 960's 75-ohm CABLE TV antenna connection? (Please note: i am aware there is a second, "regular" 75-ohm antenna connection but it has nothing to do with my inquiry here).
> 
> 
> why would I want to do this, assuming it can be done? Because quite often, in my area in raleigh, nc, the "Basic" cable tier and the "OTA" HDTV QAM offerings are frequently expanded on a test basis to include things like TNT-HD, ESPN-HD, etc. And sometimes for months at a time.
> 
> 
> thus, has anybody else ever split their incoming TW cable between a cablecard connection and a 75-ohm connection at the cable antenna input? does using a cablecard require you to choose the cable TV antenna on the remote? I would assume that if it does, my idea for splitting will not work.
> 
> 
> just fyi: i've tried to ask TW this but they have no clue what i'm even asking (or are pretending to have no clue)
> 
> 
> thanks much for any help you can be...paul



I'm having TW install a cable card this afternoon and will ask the tech about splitting the signal. This is a little out of my league, so I will ask why would you get the trial stations off the analog cable but not via the cable card?


----------



## Istari1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I vouch for this and agree 110 percent. Both Riddick films are easy demo/show off material for HD-DVD and HD in general right now.
> 
> 
> Just wait until you get that ISF job done. That's when you'll really be blown away.
> 
> 
> It honestly is like looking out of a window with some of these high grade discs, like the Riddick films, at least in terms of PQ.
> 
> 
> Amazing!



A little off topic (I do have a 960 though). What do you think of the regular DVD quality on the HD DVD player? I JUST bought an Oppo 970 for DVDs and now I'm wondering if I should have just spent the extra $250 and got the A1.


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paulnccu* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> folks:
> 
> 
> i have a 960 and currently subscribe to TW basic cable service for 11 bucks a month. for that, i get the usual assortment of channels AND, through my QAM tuner, all of the five networks in HDTV (PBS, NBC, ABC, FOX, CBS).
> 
> 
> my question is this: if i upgrade to digital cable, can i split the TW cable and: (1) attach one strand to a cablecard and use my 960's cablecard slot, and (2) use the second strand to hook up to the 960's 75-ohm CABLE TV antenna connection? (Please note: i am aware there is a second, "regular" 75-ohm antenna connection but it has nothing to do with my inquiry here).
> 
> 
> why would I want to do this, assuming it can be done? Because quite often, in my area in raleigh, nc, the "Basic" cable tier and the "OTA" HDTV QAM offerings are frequently expanded on a test basis to include things like TNT-HD, ESPN-HD, etc. And sometimes for months at a time.
> 
> 
> thus, has anybody else ever split their incoming TW cable between a cablecard connection and a 75-ohm connection at the cable antenna input? does using a cablecard require you to choose the cable TV antenna on the remote? I would assume that if it does, my idea for splitting will not work.
> 
> 
> just fyi: i've tried to ask TW this but they have no clue what i'm even asking (or are pretending to have no clue)
> 
> 
> thanks much for any help you can be...paul



Paul,


My set-up is a bit different but I did split the incoming cable coax and, in doing so, have achieved much better PQ with the analog material.


Let me explain - I have the KV-34HS420, kind of like yours w/o the SFP tube, and w/o cablecard or QAM tuner. My reason for splitting the cable was because the analog tuner in my Comcast digital cable box just sucks. So, I split the coax right where it comes out of the wall, sent one split to the STB and the other to my tv's cable-in port. This gave me better analog picture quality than I got on my analog set.


Relevance - the cable types haven't a clue what I was doing or why anyone would ever want to do such a thing. In your case, most ot them do not know that unencrypted channels are available to users with sets like yours over the simple coax attached as you're describing.


You do want to be sure that it's a 1GHz splitter. And you may just have to go trial and error, as most folks probably haven't tried what you're exploring.


Cheers!


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *paulnccu* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> folks:
> 
> 
> i have a 960 and currently subscribe to TW basic cable service for 11 bucks a month. for that, i get the usual assortment of channels AND, through my QAM tuner, all of the five networks in HDTV (PBS, NBC, ABC, FOX, CBS).
> 
> 
> my question is this: if i upgrade to digital cable, can i split the TW cable and: (1) attach one strand to a cablecard and use my 960's cablecard slot, and (2) use the second strand to hook up to the 960's 75-ohm CABLE TV antenna connection? (Please note: i am aware there is a second, "regular" 75-ohm antenna connection but it has nothing to do with my inquiry here).
> 
> 
> why would I want to do this, assuming it can be done? Because quite often, in my area in raleigh, nc, the "Basic" cable tier and the "OTA" HDTV QAM offerings are frequently expanded on a test basis to include things like TNT-HD, ESPN-HD, etc. And sometimes for months at a time.
> 
> 
> thus, has anybody else ever split their incoming TW cable between a cablecard connection and a 75-ohm connection at the cable antenna input? does using a cablecard require you to choose the cable TV antenna on the remote? I would assume that if it does, my idea for splitting will not work.
> 
> 
> just fyi: i've tried to ask TW this but they have no clue what i'm even asking (or are pretending to have no clue)
> 
> 
> thanks much for any help you can be...paul



I still cannot understand what you are trying to do either (or why actually) so TW isn't the only one that cannot understand it, but whatever.


There is 1 input on the Sony for Cable. That input also feeds the cable card. Thus the 1 cable input feeds both.


You can split the cable signal and feed the OTA tuner input on the Sony if you so desire, but you will only get channels 2-13 and nothing else - and certainly none of the "basic" cable services you think you will get as the OTA UHF are on a different frequency than cable channels 14+.


----------



## PNeski

I get this spot of green in the lelft side of the screen at times,when I shut the

set off it goes away for a while.


----------



## Istari1

Thanks to everyone who's been keeping this thread up for the last 2 years. I've found alot of great info here and in the KenTech thread.


Just got this TV about a month ago for $699 (Open Box) and I can't believe how nice the picture is, it'll be ALOT better once I calibrate it all correctly. So anyway I had Comcast come out and install a CableCARD, now I am pretty disappointed. Basically with the card installed the scrolling index no longer works, TwinView doesnt work, and I get no real guide (just Channel Names)., and no preview on the favorites menu (just for regular cable). Does this sound about right? For a TV that originally cost $2000 I would expect alot better then this. (But for my price I cant really complain).


So should I just go get an HD DVR instead? Will the picture quality suffer at all? I am wondering if I should wait for Series 3 TiVo to come out, but no idea what that time frame is. I believe the HD DVR from Comcast acts just like a normal STB, so I would have the nice program guide and all. Then I would also get rid of the card though, correct? I cant use Twinview with the CableCARD and the STB at once anyway.


----------



## GlenC

Cable card function/compatibility has long been an issue with most CC ready displays. I may be wrong, but I believe the Mitsubishi (with an internal HD DVR), the DVR would not work with the CC, among other issues including the guide. Basically it is a convenience option.


----------



## gigaguy

Istari1-

Don't blame it on the TV, that is how cablecard works on every TV. It's a 1 way system so program guides, PPV, and other 'cable' services do not function. you need a cable box to us cable services.


I went another route and use a Sony DHG-HDD500 Hi-def DVR that uses TV Guide system, which is a free program guide service. Works beautiful for me, and has cable card option too.


----------



## Istari1

Thanks guys. I knew CC was one-way, but program guides seem to me to be a one-way type of service. SO I am confused as to why I dont get it? I didnt even get any type of guide on regular cable TV before the CC install. I guess Comcast doesnt broadcast this info? Lame.


giga - how much was that DVR? Maybe that is the route I will go then. Will the picture be as good/better/worse then using the 960's internal CC tuner?


----------



## lastxbr960

I have both SA 8300 HD DVR cable box and the cable card


Since the cablecard is only a $1.95 extra for me, I have a HDDVR also, SO I can record 2 things and still watch a different channel and still use the guide and preview.

I have digital cable and the cablecard PQ is definately better than box especially on standard def bioth analouge and digital. the twin view must have a least one analouge channel to work, since Cable and over the air are still some analouge, I have been having fun with it,

I say keep both for the best picture and more options if possible


----------



## Istari1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lastxbr960* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have both SA 8300 HD DVR cable box and the cable card
> 
> 
> Since the cablecard is only a $1.95 extra for me, I have a HDDVR also, SO I can record 2 things and still watch a different channel and still use the guide and preview.
> 
> I have digital cable and the cablecard PQ is definately better than box especially on standard def bioth analouge and digital. the twin view must have a least one analouge channel to work, since Cable and over the air are still some analouge, I have been having fun with it,
> 
> I say keep both for the best picture and more options if possible



I am slightly confused then. The TV's index and preview dont work with the cablecard installed, so how are you using them? I liked the scrolling index, thought it was a fun feature. I dont use any type of antenna. The way I understand it, when you install a CC it basically forces the TV to tune only digital stations. The preview/index/twinview only works with one analog (ok twinview only works with 1 digital and 1 analog). So if I was to have the HD DVR on the left window (HD only on the left side) then there is not much that would display on the right side window. . . correct? Thanks.


----------



## hednic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Istari1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am slightly confused then. The TV's index and preview dont work with the cablecard installed, so how are you using them? I liked the scrolling index, thought it was a fun feature. I dont use any type of antenna. The way I understand it, when you install a CC it basically forces the TV to tune only digital stations. The preview/index/twinview only works with one analog (ok twinview only works with 1 digital and 1 analog). So if I was to have the HD DVR on the left window (HD only on the left side) then there is not much that would display on the right side window. . . correct? Thanks.



You are right. Picure in Picture and the scrolling index will no longer function with a cablecard because usually cablecard companies provision all channels on the card to be digital, and the Sony 960 will not accept a digital picture in the right window of the PIP, and also the scrolling index won't work. The only time the PIP will work with the cablecard is when you have a digital channel on the left and an analog channel on the right ( local channel, infomercial channel, shopping channel, or other analog channel that hasn't yet been changed or been provisioned to digital). The scrolling feature won't work at all with cable card installed. As far as connencting any type of set top box high def or not, you will run into the same problem if your cable provider has changed over to digital. Now, if you take out the cablecard in your TV, you will be able to enjoy PIP with unencrypted high-def channels on the left and any channels from 2-99 on the right. At least, this is how it works for me with the SONY 960 and a Sony HD DVR DHG-500. I have a cablecard in both pieces of equipment.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

That is an interesting dilemma I had not thought of - the cablecard would not allow the right side view of the Digital SD Channels when simulcasting the analog digital channels.


----------



## bluegrasshdtv

I have had my 34XBR960 non "n" model since Feb. Everything is looking great, except one thing.


My on screen menu colors change from white to BRIGHT yellow. They will stay white for two or three days, then the BRIGHT yellow reappears.


Has anyone else experienced this?


Does anyone know the cure for this? Or should I get the Sony Techs out here.


Thanks for your input.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bluegrasshdtv* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have had my 34XBR960 non "n" model since Feb. Everything is looking great, except one thing.
> 
> 
> My on screen menu colors change from white to BRIGHT yellow. They will stay white for two or three days, then the BRIGHT yellow reappears.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else experienced this?
> 
> 
> Does anyone know the cure for this? Or should I get the Sony Techs out here.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your input.




I have not had this problem, and I don't recall anyone else on this board reporting it.


I suggest you monitor the situation closely. It sounds like something is definitely is wrong. But a technician will have a hard time repairing a problem that is intermittent. It may have to "fail further" before it can be fixed.


On the other hand, I do suggest you call to report the problem. The service center may have some good advice for you.


Good luck!


Mark


----------



## Joe Redifer

I am having an issue with my XBR960. Keep in mind that I haven't read the thousands and thousands of replies in this thread alone yet. Here is my issue:


Going into the service menu I can straighten the HPOS (horizontal position) so that it is centered on a 1080i broadcast. After doing that 720p broadcasts are a bit off-centered to the direction I moved it in the service menu, same with 480p DVDs. Also 1080i coming from the Xbox360 will be waaaay off center. So it's either centered for broadcast or Xbox 360. What the hell?


Is there any way to fix this? I want every input and every signal to be centered, but I don't think the TV is capable.


Oh, by the way, when 1080i broadcast is centered and I switch inputs over to the XBOX360, I get a vertical bar on the right hand side that is brighter than the rest of the image, but goes away if I adjust the HPOS back to the left (yes, left). I am becoming a bit disenchanted with this set.


----------



## MotorCityJoe

Dang Joe, i feel for you bro. Hey, that rhymes lol. I got my 360 hooked up to my xbr960 and have no problems. Also, my 1080i broadcasts are spot on. It might be time to call in a qualified ISF tech.


----------



## Joe Redifer

I'd be afraid they might not do it right and I'd be even _MORE_ (much more) afraid of the bill. It'd probably be so bad that anal lube would be required and I don't have any!


Anyway, here's what it looks like on Xbox360 video (from a trailer I downloaded rom Xbox Live):











It looks like a reflection of some sort, which you can see when there is detail in that area.

Like I said, this goes away if I adjust the HPOS to the left and then recenter with the HCEN, but then that makes all of the other inputs, channels, etc out of whack.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe Redifer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'd be afraid they might not do it right and I'd be even _MORE_ (much more) afraid of the bill. It'd probably be so bad that anal lube would be required and I don't have any!
> 
> 
> Anyway, here's what it looks like on Xbox360 video (from a trailer I downloaded rom Xbox Live):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like a reflection of some sort, which you can see when there is detail in that area.
> 
> Like I said, this goes away if I adjust the HPOS to the left and then recenter with the HCEN, but then that makes all of the other inputs, channels, etc out of whack.



Joe, I don't think this will help, but here are two ideas to consider: What type of connecting cables are you using? While I think manufacturers are making a LOT of money selling cables that are over-engineered, one must use "good" cables. For example, if you're using inexpensive RCA cables designed for audio for your video signal, you could get the type of distortion you're seeing.


Also, it's possible that your problem is AC hum. Again, good cables would improve this situation. And, it's important to be sure you're using grounded (3-wire) AC plugs and extension cords.


Mark


----------



## hypaspazz

Can Someone tell me where they were able to purchase the 960 recently? I am looking for this set since I feel that the 970 is a stripped down version (not super-fine). They have an open box at the local circuit city but it is pretty beat up and who knows how long the set has been on.


----------



## jhirsche

not sure where you're at, but go to Best Buy and/or Circuit City and have them do a "regional search." This will check inventory of their stores within a predefined range. You might also keep checking with your local Sony Outlet, as they have B+ and better condition refurbs coming and going. They've also been having a 30-40% off sale on the refurb prices for these, so you could really get a great deal that would be worth the drive. Other than that, look on Ebay for people moving and selling theirs, and also Craigslist.


----------



## Istari1

Last month I bought mine open box a Circuit City. Only time will tell if it was a good/bad idea, but for $699 I didnt think I could pass it up.


----------



## hypaspazz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Istari1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Last month I bought mine open box a Circuit City. Only time will tell if it was a good/bad idea, but for $699 I didnt think I could pass it up.



My local CC wants $1299 and the housing is beat up pretty bad. This is outrageous in my opinion so I will keep looking. The Sony Outlet near me will not pick up the phone so I can't check on whether or not they have any refurbs. I will just have to keep plugging away at it. If I have to break down and buy the 970 I guess it isn't so bad but the SFP is soooooo sweet.


----------



## Joe Redifer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BTV Mark* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Joe, I don't think this will help, but here are two ideas to consider: What type of connecting cables are you using? While I think manufacturers are making a LOT of money selling cables that are over-engineered, one must use "good" cables. For example, if you're using inexpensive RCA cables designed for audio for your video signal, you could get the type of distortion you're seeing.
> 
> 
> Also, it's possible that your problem is AC hum. Again, good cables would improve this situation. And, it's important to be sure you're using grounded (3-wire) AC plugs and extension cords.
> 
> 
> Mark



Thanks for the suggestions, but I am using the cables that came with the 360. I can see this happen on OTA channels as well if something is out of whack. This is fixed by adjusting the HPOS to the left, but then the screen is off center. The 960 seems to have independent settings for each input and resolution, so I am thinking that the Xbox360 is not quite "true" 1080i compared to that of a TV broadcast, and that is why the affects shown here are different compared to what I get with other resolutions and inputs.


----------



## jhirsche

which sony outlet are you near?


----------



## Joe Redifer

There is one waaaay across town but I don't think they'd willingly come over. And since this TV weighs more than my house I can't easily bring it to them.


----------



## hypaspazz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jhirsche* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ...You might also keep checking with your local Sony Outlet, as they have B+ and better condition refurbs coming and going....



Thanks for the tip. I called the local store and they get regular shipments of 960's and 970's. I am hoping that they will get a 960 but I will go for the 970 if they get those in first. The guys at the San Marcos, TX store were very professional and eager to help locate my dream CRT.


They even opened a lone 970 they had in stock and let me know that it had been damaged in shipment and not to make the three hour trip to the store. I did not even ask them to do this. I am very pleased with the service from these guys and I haven't even bought a TV yet.


----------



## JimmyWang214

If only there were some way to get Sony Outlet to ship products. I don't want to make the 3-4 hour trip to Rehoaboath Beach just to get a TV :-\\ (Especially one that's impossible to move without 3 steroid-infused bodybuilders)


----------



## lazerfan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe Redifer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'd be afraid they might not do it right and I'd be even _MORE_ (much more) afraid of the bill. It'd probably be so bad that anal lube would be required and I don't have any!
> 
> 
> Anyway, here's what it looks like on Xbox360 video (from a trailer I downloaded rom Xbox Live):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like a reflection of some sort, which you can see when there is detail in that area.
> 
> Like I said, this goes away if I adjust the HPOS to the left and then recenter with the HCEN, but then that makes all of the other inputs, channels, etc out of whack.



I may be offbase, but those lines look like MOIRE to me. I once had a 30" widescreen CRT Philips set. When I watched a dvd via the dedicated progressive scan component input, I'd get those wavy lines on the sides. But, if I just used the S-Video input, there'd be no problem.

Is this artifact prevalent on just one input? Have you tried hooking the X Box up via a different method to see if the Moire lines are there? That would at least eliminate the X Box itself from being incompatible with your set.


----------



## Majestyk




> Quote:
> I may be offbase, but those lines look like MOIRE to me.



Moiré is what you're seeing around the text (might be just from the photo); the original poster is talking about the edge of the screen.



M


----------



## lazerfan

I thought moire were the tiger stripes that you get at the sides of the screen? This problem was the same thing I saw on my Philips. Thick stripes on the sides of the screen in a curved pattern.

I was able to reduce this by getting into the service menu and reducing the vertical amplitude a bit. Getting overscan from a whopping 15% down to about 4 or 5%, made the thick stripes become pencil thin and much, much less noticeable from my viewing distance.


----------



## Joe Redifer

The moire effect is from the digital camera and the TV not having matching resolutions and also looking at the TV at an angle. They are not there in real life. I am indeed referring to the stripe at the edge. I have fixed it, but the result is an image ever-so-slightly off center in one direction or another for each resolution. It's not too bad.


----------



## gigaguy

San Marcos Outlet had 960s (and 955s) about half a year ago for really cheap. I didn't see any there recently, but they do have all their tubes on sale.

I bought my 960 on ebay from a Florida TV seller a year ago. Was the cheapest at the time. Was happy with the deal but now I want larger for the living room.


Just got a Sony 32XBR1 LCD set for the bedroom. Still tweaking the heck out of it but the 960 is so much better and smoother picture. The 32XBR1 was a steal, at BB, it has some frame damage. Price was in the 3 digits (barely), I couldn't pass that up! but the 960 beats it easily, except for size and weight.


----------



## doretta

Anyone who is seeing areas on the 960 that are colored blue, green, etc.:


Before you mess with the service menu or wave large magnets in front of your screen, there are a couple of things you may want to consider.


1. If you leave your TV on for days at a time, try turning it off at least daily instead.


2. Make sure you have your TV plugged directly into your wall outlet and not into a surge suppressor then turn the TV off and on several times and see if the colored areas go away.


When you turn your TV on it goes through a process called "degaussing" that's designed to prevent/eliminate those colored areas.


If you don't turn your TV off, you can never turn it on so degaussing won't happen. Degaussing takes a lot of current--more than some surge suppressors will pass. If your surge suppressor limits the current to your TV enough you may get incomplete degaussing that allows those colored areas to develop.


----------



## GlenC

doretta,


Good info, well put!


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe Redifer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions, but I am using the cables that came with the 360. I can see this happen on OTA channels as well if something is out of whack. This is fixed by adjusting the HPOS to the left, but then the screen is off center. The 960 seems to have independent settings for each input and resolution, so I am thinking that the Xbox360 is not quite "true" 1080i compared to that of a TV broadcast, and that is why the affects shown here are different compared to what I get with other resolutions and inputs.



Hrm something doesnt seem right .. The 360 doesnt have any bright edges on my XBR960 and the screen is centered on all inputs and resolutions.. might want to have sony take a look at it?


----------



## Chorgey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *doretta* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 2. Make sure you have your TV plugged directly into your wall outlet and not into a surge suppressor then turn the TV off and on several times and see if the colored areas go away.



Shouldn't my 960 be protected from surge spikes though? Is it safe to plug the set directly into the wall?


----------



## DJF(NJ)

Hey, everyone, here's a link to a post I just made in the 'Display Calibration' section concerning my 960s calibration by Chad Billheimer.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=722831


----------



## JimmyWang214

I checked Craigslist and Ebay fanatically pretty much every 2 hours the past couple of weeks and everything I could find on Ebay was local pickup and located either in Texas or Kentucky. Somehow this morning, I found a ridiculous deal on Ebay that includes a stand, and for local pickup...I'll be sure to bring a couple of big guys to move it and/or to make sure I'm not going to get mugged. (The seller's new and his rating, though 100% is pretty low)



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jhirsche* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> not sure where you're at, but go to Best Buy and/or Circuit City and have them do a "regional search." This will check inventory of their stores within a predefined range. You might also keep checking with your local Sony Outlet, as they have B+ and better condition refurbs coming and going. They've also been having a 30-40% off sale on the refurb prices for these, so you could really get a great deal that would be worth the drive. Other than that, look on Ebay for people moving and selling theirs, and also Craigslist.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chorgey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Shouldn't my 960 be protected from surge spikes though? Is it safe to plug the set directly into the wall?



Sony advised me that full power is required to degauge the 960 each time it is turned on. Plugging it directly into the wall provides the full amount of power required whereas surge protectors cut-down the amount of power going to the set.


- Joe


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hypaspazz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tip. I called the local store and they get regular shipments of 960's and 970's. I am hoping that they will get a 960 but I will go for the 970 if they get those in first. The guys at the San Marcos, TX store were very professional and eager to help locate my dream CRT.
> 
> 
> They even opened a lone 970 they had in stock and let me know that it had been damaged in shipment and not to make the three hour trip to the store. I did not even ask them to do this. I am very pleased with the service from these guys and I haven't even bought a TV yet.



Two months ago I saw the 40" SONY LCD which looked quite impressive - it also has two HDMI connections. If unable to locate a new XBR 960, this model might be a good second choice (if you have the near $3,000 which it's now going for).


- Just a thought.


Joe


----------



## bluegrasshdtv

BTV Mark,


Sorry for the long delay. The set is still changing the menu colors from yellow to white, without causing any problems with the picture. Doesn't football look great in HD!!

I am going to call Sony and report this problem to them asap.

Thanks for your input.


----------



## eyerox

:Cry:


I recently entered the market for an HDTV. After reading the reviews online and seeing open box xbr960's I have decided this is the TV I must have.


I'm starting to come to the realization that it might not happen. I have been able to find 4 of the televisions in MICHIGAN, but all of them have been "open box" at BB. A refurb might be acceptable, but the damage seen on some of the open boxes has been extreme.


My budget is about $1100. Should I consider the 970 the "next best thing"?


Specifically, I am looking for a great picture, something within my budget, and a fairly large screen.


Opinions?


Thanks....


----------



## JohnGZ28

I've been eagerly awaiting the rollout of FIOS TV in my neighborhood only to come to realize I'll lose the twin view feature of the 960.


With FIOS being all digital I won't be able to display a channel in the "twin" box. Is this correct or am I missing something?


----------



## mr2828

If you can get 2 fios set top boxes, you could hook them both up to the set at once. I've done that once before with my two comcast dvrs when I wanted to watch two world cup soccer games taking place simultaneously. I have to use a cut out piece of cardboard to block one or the other dvr from receiving remote control signals because they stupidly lack any form of addressing.


----------



## MotorCityJoe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eyerox* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> :Cry:
> 
> 
> I recently entered the market for an HDTV. After reading the reviews online and seeing open box xbr960's I have decided this is the TV I must have.
> 
> 
> I'm starting to come to the realization that it might not happen. I have been able to find 4 of the televisions in MICHIGAN, but all of them have been "open box" at BB. A refurb might be acceptable, but the damage seen on some of the open boxes has been extreme.
> 
> 
> My budget is about $1100. Should I consider the 970 the "next best thing"?
> 
> 
> Specifically, I am looking for a great picture, something within my budget, and a fairly large screen.
> 
> 
> Opinions?
> 
> 
> Thanks....




Eyerox, try the ABC Warehouse at the 12 Oaks Mall in Novi Mich. They have a KD-34XBR960 in great condition. The sticker says about $1100 last i checked. If you like, i will meet you there and make the salesman pricematch the xbr960 i got for $700.00 Or you can try to haggle on your own. PM me if you require my assistance on getting the best price.


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eyerox* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ...My budget is about $1100. Should I consider the 970 the "next best thing"?
> 
> 
> Specifically, I am looking for a great picture, something within my budget, and a fairly large screen.
> 
> 
> Opinions?
> 
> 
> Thanks....



If, for whatever reason, you cannot locate an acceptable 960, then I would say, "yes," go for a 970. The 970 is a fine HDTV. All it lacks is the SFP tube. I do not look at it as a step down. It's just another alternative.


Good Luck!


I'd take MotorCityJoe up on his offer for sure.


----------



## Istari1

I think this has been said before, but just to let others know who havent been able to read this entire thread: I recently bought an open box xbr960 at CC ($699). It had the "cold tuner" issue where when turned on it would not tune any digital stations and SD stations would look very bad. Had the repair guy come out today and replace the "q-box" and everything looks fixed now! This problem was actually moot since I had gotten a CableCard, for some reason the card didnt show this problem. Anyway, if you get this part replaced you will have to remove the CableCrad and then call your provider to set it back up because the new q-box gives the TV a new address. It also cleared ALL the color/picrure adjustments I had made







That was alot of work, but oh well at least I know how to do it again.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eyerox* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My budget is about $1100. Should I consider the 970 the "next best thing"?
> 
> 
> Specifically, I am looking for a great picture, something within my budget, and a fairly large screen.
> 
> 
> Opinions?
> 
> 
> Thanks....



Yes, the 970 is by far the next best thing as far as CRTs go; however, you may still find a 960 or XS955 if you are lucky. Have you first called all of your local independent shops with no luck? I found my new 960 about a month ago by going into a Best Buy and asking them to search surrounding stores within about a 2-3 hour radius. You could still get lucky...there are probably still a few Best Buys that have one.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr2828* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you can get 2 fios set top boxes, you could hook them both up to the set at once. I've done that once before with my two comcast dvrs when I wanted to watch two world cup soccer games taking place simultaneously. I have to use a cut out piece of cardboard to block one or the other dvr from receiving remote control signals because they stupidly lack any form of addressing.



That's a thought. I'll have to check into this option.


----------



## doretta




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chorgey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Shouldn't my 960 be protected from surge spikes though? Is it safe to plug the set directly into the wall?



First things first. Plug it into the wall socket (not during a thunderstorm) and determine whether or not the surge suppressor is the problem. If it is, it's safe to conclude you don't want that particular surge suppressor protecting your 960. Look for one that is made for relatively high current equipment and experiment and you might find one that works.


----------



## Dr. Spankenstein

Hello all,


I am rapidly approaching the end of my warranty period. I have recently lost the ability to adjust some of the vertical corrections within the service menu and was planning on taking the set in for repair or replacement of one of the boards. I have also notice more recently that I think I'm seeing some burn-in from my family's viewing of 4:3 material. I can only describe the burn-in as areas that are a shade darker/dimmer and a slight linearity issue when an image moves past these areas (like a right to left pan or vise-versa.) Does this sound like a form of burn-in or maybe an aperature grill failure? If so, show I look into having the tube replaced since they aren't going to be producing these tubes anymore?

It seems like it would be resonable timeing to have something like this done while the parts costs are being taken by Sony.


Any thoughts?


Bryan


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

I would clearly get it repaired while under warranty.


The aperature grill failure in every case I have seen can be described as an off color blob on the sides. It usually ripples when you turn up the volume...especially if their is bass involved that shakes the defective grill.


My unit is 2 years old (but I have a 5 year waranty) and i am beginning to see a blob on both sides (which is a first) - again not burn in. I am thinking a failure is starting.


----------



## rcasini

I am having a similar problem where the image will vibrate slightly (best way to describe it) when the volume is turned up past 11 or so. I do not have any color blotches and it is only noticeable when viewing a lightly colored background. Is this some sort of defect or does everybody have this? Please help!!!!


----------



## bschmidt25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Istari1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think this has been said before, but just to let others know who havent been able to read this entire thread: I recently bought an open box xbr960 at CC ($699). It had the "cold tuner" issue where when turned on it would not tune any digital stations and SD stations would look very bad. Had the repair guy come out today and replace the "q-box" and everything looks fixed now! This problem was actually moot since I had gotten a CableCard, for some reason the card didnt show this problem. Anyway, if you get this part replaced you will have to remove the CableCrad and then call your provider to set it back up because the new q-box gives the TV a new address. It also cleared ALL the color/picrure adjustments I had made
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was alot of work, but oh well at least I know how to do it again.



I just picked up a 960 last weekend - got an awesome deal at CC ($350 - open box, with a small scratch on the lower right on the screen - barely visible). I'm having the same issue with the tuner. Usually I can turn it off and back on again, and that resolves the issue, but it's still annoying. I know that the XBRs are covered for two years and mine is a December '04 manufacture date, so this should be covered by that, correct? If not, what does this run to get it repaired?


----------



## gigaguy

That's crazy price! I think my shipping and insurance was more than that on mine!

I'm eyeing LCDs now and may sell mine, hope I can get at least 3-4 X what you paid. Many people don't want tubes anymore but the 960 has a niche market.


----------



## rmsretire

Well, after a few years I have jumped head first into HD.....I read through all this thread, plus other forums, and was almost too late on these 34XBR960 televisions. Found an open box 960 at CC after they searched the 100 mile radius....had them side-by-side the 960 and 970....no comparison, 960 was stunning vs 970(and $200 cheaper!!) and the LCD/Plasma's did not compare in PQ ......blacks should be BLACK, and whites should be WHITE.....


manufacture date May 2005......no geometry, tuner or power problems......been in home 3 weeks......used OTA UHF antenna till Verizon got the FIOS TV hooked up last week.....Had standard D*TV before.....did not like the idea of paying for the Equipment.....so, FIOS TV installation was superb...had them do a separate new run of wiring with no splitters, took 2 hours


Stunning HD with this 960....of course there are a bunch of adjustments to "trial and error" till one is happy, but after that, sit back and the WOW factor is tops......


Calibration comes next....


----------



## bschmidt25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rmsretire* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Stunning HD with this 960....of course there are a bunch of adjustments to "trial and error" till one is happy, but after that, sit back and the WOW factor is tops......



Yeah - the HD is simply unbelievable. Even the SD looks pretty good as far I'm concerned. I do have the convergence issue on the top left of the screen, but unless I'm looking for it I don't notice it. Hope to eventually resolve that as well. What has everyone been doing to resolve it?


----------



## mking2673

I just stopped by my local best buy. They have one 960 left that is an open box. It was nice to see one in person after having read about them. It is in fact a awesome picture.


Currently it is priced at $100 more than a new in box 970 ($1100). There are some geometry problems in the top left and it needs to be degaused as it looks like a speaker was right next to the left side of the screen. The manager was unwilling to go any lower since it is already below cost. For now I am passing on it (hoping that that I can get it a bit cheaper), but I am wondering what a good price would be for a 960 in this condition?


edit: Actually now that I read further, I am guessing that this is a failure of the grill on the sides and not a magnetics problem.


----------



## Istari1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bschmidt25* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just picked up a 960 last weekend - got an awesome deal at CC ($350 - open box, with a small scratch on the lower right on the screen - barely visible). I'm having the same issue with the tuner. Usually I can turn it off and back on again, and that resolves the issue, but it's still annoying. I know that the XBRs are covered for two years and mine is a December '04 manufacture date, so this should be covered by that, correct? If not, what does this run to get it repaired?



If it was Open Box at CC then it should have the standard 2 year warranty from date of your purchase, not manuf. date. So go online, find the soy tech nearest you and tell tem to replace the q-box problem solved.


----------



## rmsretire

Yes, the SD from FIOS TV is better than D*TV's standard...I was getting in/out of focus signals that was not noticable till the 960 was hooked up....in fact that was the final straw after 8 years of loyal D*TV....their arrogance to me wanting to get the equipment at a minimum $$ didn't help...


I digress.....


the SFP picture is oustanding, color reproduction is outstanding ......


I have the Oppo 971 DVD and can wait out the price reductions of the HD DVD's with this 960 as the monitor, WOW,again...now I gotta watch a bunch of movies over to see what I have been missing....


Monoprice 5x1 HDMI switcher on the way, with some cables... should get tomorrow per tracking data....


sign me....Giddy....


Oh, BTW...what is the consensous on leaving this 960 "on" most of the time. say, weekly, turning it off only to allow for degaussing upon turn "on"? I have a electronics fan keeping cool air in and hot air out like my audio gear.....


----------



## bschmidt25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Istari1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If it was Open Box at CC then it should have the standard 2 year warranty from date of your purchase, not manuf. date. So go online, find the soy tech nearest you and tell tem to replace the q-box problem solved.



Sony's site says the closest service center is 70 miles from me in Chicago










I'm going to place a few calls to some higher end stores I know have service centers. Do you know if they'll come and pick it up, or am I on my own for that? I just got this thing in the house last weekend. I'm in no mood to move it again...


----------



## eyerox




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, the 970 is by far the next best thing as far as CRTs go; however, you may still find a 960 or XS955 if you are lucky. Have you first called all of your local independent shops with no luck? I found my new 960 about a month ago by going into a Best Buy and asking them to search surrounding stores within about a 2-3 hour radius. You could still get lucky...there are probably still a few Best Buys that have one.



Thank you for your help. I picked up a 970 about 1 week ago. It's wonderful so far, except for a little overscan only obvious while playing GRAW on xbox 360.


I also bought the yamaha ht370.


----------



## drkashner

Hi,

On Dec. 1, my 960 will be 2 years old. I haven't had any problems with it except 2 times, I had the power on problem, and I just unplugged it for awhile and everything was ok. A couple of days ago, I received an offer from Sony to extend warranty service for a year or 3 years (you save some money if you take the 3 years). Has anyone used this service? What bothers me is that on the back in fine print it says that all TV's over 27" have 'in home service', but on the front it says: service type: depot. I'm not about to take a service contract and have to take it somewhere to get it serviced. I usually don't believe in extended warranties, but I love this TV, and no more are being produced, so I'll be keeping it as long as I can.


----------



## mking2673

I went back yesterday to best buy and talked them down to $800 on the 960 in my above post. I will probably pull the trigger at that price but it will need to be serviced. It has the color blobs on the side and the top left geometry needs a good amount of work. Does the Sony coverage provide in home service? Would I be able to get these 2 issues fixed under warranty? I just want to make sure before I buy.


----------



## dmbmay98

I found a person locally selling the xbr 960 for 700. It is 1.5 years old and still has 1.5 year warranty left on it. The tube was replaced 8 months into it so sony extended the warranty for 6 months. I currently have a 37in panasonic plasma 37pd25u will i notice a picture quality improvement and is he asking to much for the xbr or is that fair. I was kind of worried about the tube being replaced. Thanks for your input and i may be having to selling my tv now.


----------



## KevDrew




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *doretta* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> First things first. Plug it into the wall socket (not during a thunderstorm) and determine whether or not the surge suppressor is the problem. If it is, it's safe to conclude you don't want that particular surge suppressor protecting your 960. Look for one that is made for relatively high current equipment and experiment and you might find one that works.



I purchased my XBR960 from BB in Nov'05 and since then have had 3 service calls

and 2 DZ boards replaced. The TV works fine for a few weeks and then the picture

goes out. I have one more service call left before Best Buy declares my 960 a lemon

and replaces it. Any ideas on what I should do? At this point I'm all out of options

since I really like the PQ (when it works : I) and if at all possible - would like to keep it!


----------



## gigaguy

I've had my 960 a year with zero problems, and just got a Sony LCD 32XBR1 for the bedroom. While different in look, the LCD has a lot to like about it. At first the LCD's not-black blacks bothered me but the super sharp resolution, perfect geometry, and pop'py colors of the LCD are amazing.

I'll probably replace my 960 next year with a larger Sony 1080p LCD.


----------



## cornell_lingus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimmyWang214* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If only there were some way to get Sony Outlet to ship products. I don't want to make the 3-4 hour trip to Rehoaboath Beach just to get a TV :-\\ (Especially one that's impossible to move without 3 steroid-infused bodybuilders)



I drove 4.5 hours one way for mine. It was worth every second.


----------



## PNeski

How can I correct overscan on my 960?


----------



## Chorgey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PNeski* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How can I correct overscan on my 960?



You'll have to get into the service menu for that or have your set calibrated (I highly recommend it) and your callibrator can correct it.


----------



## PNeski

Thanks But how much will that cost?


----------



## SurfingMatt27




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cornell_lingus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I drove 4.5 hours one way for mine. It was worth every second.



for the PQ that sony brings out..indeed it was.


----------



## Chorgey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PNeski* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks But how much will that cost?



Mine was $350 and the picture is excellent! I didn't think that it could have looked any better until it was calibrated. Now I don't even touch the picture/brightness/color, etc...


You can go into the service menu yourself, but if you change something and then save it without marking your previous settings down, you can really screw things up.


----------



## williamtassone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would clearly get it repaired while under warranty.
> 
> 
> The aperature grill failure in every case I have seen can be described as an off color blob on the sides. It usually ripples when you turn up the volume...especially if their is bass involved that shakes the defective grill.
> 
> 
> My unit is 2 years old (but I have a 5 year waranty) and i am beginning to see a blob on both sides (which is a first) - again not burn in. I am thinking a failure is starting.




Sir


I am stunned that a man of your experience would subscribe to this theory.


Color blobs that appear with the passage of time usually have nothing to do with grill failures. That is a lie perpetuated by dishonest service techs or the ones who know no better.


Give me 2 minutes with your TV and I'd show you how easy the blobs are to remove


will


By the way while I'm here does this TV have a native resolution and if so does anyone know what it is as I am experimenting with an external video processor to bypass the TV's internal video processing. The XBR910/960 series in australia have RGBHV plugs in the back.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *williamtassone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Give me 2 minutes with your TV and I'd show you how easy the blobs are to remove



Please -- come work on my one year old 34XBR960.










And when you see that after adjusting the landing settings to make the color blobs in the corners go away but they come back the next day, and after adjusting the settings even further and the blobs come back the next day again, and you keep adjusting the landing settings until they are all the way to 255 and 0 and the blobs still come back the next day -- I'ld love to hear what your second diagnosis might be.


Really, I would. I'ld love to know what I might try next.


----------



## williamtassone

Ladd,


I am sorry to hear of whats happening with your Tv. I will tell you what various techs have told me over the years. I am not saying that any of the following applies in your case though...


example 1. A lady in coastal eastern australia who , regardless of the CRT brand she bought ,always had color purity problems . Turns out the neighbourhood she was in had a some sort of vein of iron ore and the backgroung terrestial magnetic field was the cause. this was confirmed by the council engineers years earlier who sampled the area before foundations were put in. There are meters you can buy that can measure the terrestial magnetic fielld where you live.


2. In my own case I lived in a house that had very old electrical wiring and when I moved house the color purity problems went away. An engineer in London confirmed that incorrect wiring can cause color purity problems. I cannot give the electrophysics basis for this though. He mentioned something about net electrical currents and the greater the current the higher the magnetic field.


3. I have noticed that nearby electrical motors (eg a fan ) or nearby metallic objects (eg a large living room heater) can cause color impurities.


4. I had a high defintion set-top box (high definition tuner) made by panasonic that caused color impuritues. I don't know why.


5. I've had a high end UPS unit that cost over $1k - i noticed it too could cause color impurities. Again I do not know why .


6. I've tried removing the internal speakers on two XBR910's and that had no impact on purity at all. Only landing fixed mine ( and believe me I tried everything else first).


7. Nearby high density power lines can cause color impurities on CRT televisions. (i hope you dont live near any)


8. The internal degaussing unit needs a massive in-rush current to power up. I've had a few surge suppressors that ware causing impurities. My theory is that these units were somehow impeding the inrush current and start up degaussing was somehow affected . I dont know and never used em again. Maybe thats why the official Sony position is to plug it straight into the wall.?


I hate these color blobs more than anyone. They really are a pain in the arse . On Kentechs suggestions I (and many others in Australia) have adjusted landing and have remained in video nirvana ever since. Admittedly I have heard of quite a few people like yourself who despite all efforts experience the green goblins and my heart goes out to you as I know that it detracts from viewing pleasure.


There are guys who know the basis for this as I remember reading (I think in agoraquest) of an explanation for persisting color blobs despite landing adjustments. I have a faint memory of reading about a "circuit " being at fault but it was over 2 years ago .


The thing I was taken by is the assumption by so many that if the color blobs appear ipso facto the tube must be stuffed. Not necessarily.


My attitude towards electronics is that for every problem there is a cause. The hard part is finding it.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *williamtassone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sir
> 
> 
> I am stunned that a man of your experience would subscribe to this theory.
> 
> 
> Color blobs that appear with the passage of time usually have nothing to do with grill failures. That is a lie perpetuated by dishonest service techs or the ones who know no better.
> 
> 
> Give me 2 minutes with your TV and I'd show you how easy the blobs are to remove



Well, as I have had 3 910/960s with Aperture grill failures, I think I have a pretty good idea what they look like - but thanks for the offer.


I am sure Tweeter just replaced 3 TV's against my wishes and upgraded me from a 910 to a 960 because they were stupid.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *williamtassone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> By the way while I'm here does this TV have a native resolution and if so does anyone know what it is as I am experimenting with an external video processor to bypass the TV's internal video processing. The XBR910/960 series in australia have RGBHV plugs in the back.




In your own words


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *williamtassone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sir I am stunned that a man of your experience would ....



......not know this.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *williamtassone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I am sorry to hear of whats happening with your Tv. I will tell you what various techs have told me over the years.



So this comes from the vast knowledge of Techs who you know are geniuses but you know mine is an idiot - that clearly is sound science based on direct observation, lol.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *williamtassone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> example 1. A lady in coastal eastern australia who , regardless of the CRT brand she bought ,always had color purity problems . Turns out the neighbourhood she was in had a some sort of vein of iron ore and the backgroung terrestial magnetic field was the cause. this was confirmed by the council engineers years earlier who sampled the area before foundations were put in. There are meters you can buy that can measure the terrestial magnetic fielld where you live.



Gosh, you have electromagnetic fields in Australia too! Who'd have thunk it? Do you think maybe the MantraRays that killed Steve Irwin are behind it?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *williamtassone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 2. In my own case I lived in a house that had very old electrical wiring and when I moved house the color purity problems went away. An engineer in London confirmed that incorrect wiring can cause color purity problems. I cannot give the electrophysics basis for this though.



Again, a man of your stature doesn't understand electromagnetic fields? I guess you never made a magnet with a piece of metal, wire and a battery in High School Science class either?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *williamtassone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> He mentioned something about net electrical currents and the greater the current the higher the magnetic field.



You clearly didn't pay attention in those basic science classes, did you? Let me tell you another secret. There are these things called Radio Waves, that I am told can carry a TV picture - even though you cannot see the radio waves! I am even told that if you get the right wave legnth you can get this radio waves to even cook food in something called a microwave oven!!!! I've yet to see these invisible wave, but if I live right, maybe one day I will be given the right to see them from some Zin Master such as yourself!!!! I can't hardly wait and live for that day!!!!!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *williamtassone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 3. I have noticed that nearby electrical motors (eg a fan ) or nearby metallic objects (eg a large living room heater) can cause color impurities.



Did you just skip all science classes? Do you at least know why the water going down your drain "spins the wrong way in Australia and the Southern Hemisphere?" Something about a force called gravity and the rotation of the earth, but I've never seen either to confirm they exists, lol.... Some guy named Newton swears they do though.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *williamtassone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 4. I had a high defintion set-top box (high definition tuner) made by panasonic that caused color impuritues. I don't know why.



You don't know why yet you are going to tell me how to get rid of my blobs in 2 minutes...




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *williamtassone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 5. I've had a high end UPS unit that cost over $1k - i noticed it too could cause color impurities. Again I do not know why .



Dare I say it again, you don't know why, yet you are going to get rid of my blobs, yet you don't understand the magnetic fields produced by a UPS and demonstrated by making a magnet of of a piece of metal in Science Class?????




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *williamtassone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 6. I've tried removing the internal speakers on two XBR910's and that had no impact on purity at all. Only landing fixed mine ( and believe me I tried everything else first).



Again, duh...... the speakers are shielded.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *williamtassone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 7. Nearby high density power lines can cause color impurities on CRT televisions. (i hope you dont live near any)



and he can't figure out why a UPS or old unshielded house wiring would cause a problem, lol




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *williamtassone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 8. The internal degaussing unit needs a massive in-rush current to power up. I've had a few surge suppressors that ware causing impurities. My theory is that these units were somehow impeding the inrush current and start up degaussing was somehow affected . I dont know and never used em again. Maybe thats why the official Sony position is to plug it straight into the wall.?



You are batting a thousand




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *williamtassone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I hate these color blobs more than anyone. They really are a pain in the arse . On Kentechs suggestions I (and many others in Australia) have adjusted landing and have remained in video nirvana ever since. Admittedly I have heard of quite a few people like yourself who despite all efforts experience the green goblins and my heart goes out to you as I know that it detracts from viewing pleasure.
> 
> 
> There are guys who know the basis for this as I remember reading (I think in agoraquest) of an explanation for persisting color blobs despite landing adjustments. I have a faint memory of reading about a "circuit " being at fault but it was over 2 years ago .
> 
> 
> The thing I was taken by is the assumption by so many that if the color blobs appear ipso facto the tube must be stuffed. Not necessarily.



And if the blob pulsates and modulates with deep bass notes as the Aperture grill is shaking, you have an Aperture grill failure. As your entire picture does not shake on deep bass notes, it can't get much clearer or obvious than that.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *williamtassone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My attitude towards electronics is that for every problem there is a cause. The hard part is finding it



How profound...for every problem there is a cause...geez.


I guess those are words to live by. I would have never thought about that.


You are clearly the Zin Master and I am honored that you would even think about fixing my blobs.


----------



## Chorgey

Does anyone have a bias light installed in back of their 960? If so, where/how do you have it installed? Near the bottom of the set, middle? top?

Any pics of the install?


How improved is the viewing?


----------



## RWetmore

Question:


I tried searching the thread, but can't come up with a clear answer. What do the "Reality" and "Clarity" adjustments do in the Custom Palette modes in advanced video? Thanks.


----------



## gigaguy

If someone near Austin, TX is looking for a 960, Send me a message.

Build date 06/05, flawless. with/orig box.


----------



## ejy2733

Well, I'm now the proud new owner of a 960. Thank you to the many posters here that helped me decide to get the 960 instead of the 970.


So far, I'm very happy with my decision. The picture and sound are great. Now I just need to upgrade my DirecTV to HD!


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins

I've had the 960 for quite a few months now, really love the picture quality.


When it first turns on and degausses itself there sometimes appears to be a dark area of discoloration that remains on the lower left hand portion of the screen.... displaying on a screen of a solid light color it is barely noticeable (yet still noticeable,) hardly noticeable at all (or not noticeable most of the time) when watching moving imagery.


My speakers are magnetically shielded so I know my left front can't be causing this problem.


Anyone have any idea what the issue is? I just don't want it to get worse (it didn't do this at all when I first purchased the set.) The set isn't professionally calibrated or anything but it is still optimized as much as it can be using Avia (and suggestions from this thread.)


The TV is plugged directly into the wall and is never left on after I'm done viewing it (which amounts to only an hour or two each day on average.)


----------



## MrGonk

Stinky-


That's a purity problem. Turns out, the yokes in these sets are unbelievably sensitive (perhaps that's what we owe for its being discontinued) and almost all of them develop these problems. I just had mine ISFed and it still has some minor problems with that. Especially the more the TV is used, the problem becomes impossible to avoid. The calibrationist cursed my previous repair tech for messing with the yoke magnets and said that basically he thinks the yoke just warps over time because of how frail it is. He got my set to a point where it's mostly not noticeable.


Dan


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MrGonk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Stinky-
> 
> 
> That's a purity problem. Turns out, the yokes in these sets are unbelievably sensitive (perhaps that's what we owe for its being discontinued) and almost all of them develop these problems. I just had mine ISFed and it still has some minor problems with that. Especially the more the TV is used, the problem becomes impossible to avoid. The calibrationist cursed my previous repair tech for messing with the yoke magnets and said that basically he thinks the yoke just warps over time because of how frail it is. He got my set to a point where it's mostly not noticeable.
> 
> 
> Dan



Damn.... how bad can I expect the problem to get over a period of what amount of time? Meaning, in your experience how bad do you think it'll be in 6 months, how bad in a year, etc. given a couple hours of use every day? Right now it really isn't that big of a concern as it can't really be noticed when watching images in motion, it takes a solid gray/light background for it to become somewhat noticeable; But it does bother the half of me that's so anal about picture quality just knowing it exists (even though it can't be seen much of the time) and could get worse is enough to get me to look for it constantly. I really didn't feel the need to get this thing ISF'ed before, but if it gets any worse I guess I'll have to look into it.


----------



## mku917

Sorry if I'm interrupting the thread. I was curious if any of you know how to remove the anti glare coating on the xbr960. I've searched the site and could only find one thread that said he removed it with a product called goof off at goof-off.com. He also said that he couldn't recommend his technique because it took him so long to remove it. I want to remove the glare coating for better picture. I also found out that the "960N" model has a plastic protective coating over the anti glare coating and that the regular 960 doesn't. I have the 960. It looks like I just need to find a chemical that will remove it without damaging the glass or plastic. I thought maybe that clear boxing tape you get at the post office. The reason I say from the post office tape is because thats quality tape with super sticky stuff on it and if youve ever notice that that clear tape doesn't leave a sticky residue if done right. I might practice on my windows before hand. I don't know if the coating is a film or a sprayed on substance. I've found theres different opinions on that. Im not bothered by several windows I live in an apartment thats like living in a cave. Any thoughts?

P.S. If you like the coating and want to keep it never use any tipe of liquid ever not even electronics cleaner to clean it get one of those special cloths used to clean televisions.


----------



## mku917




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stinky-Dinkins* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've had the 960 for quite a few months now, really love the picture quality.
> 
> 
> When it first turns on and degausses itself there sometimes appears to be a dark area of discoloration that remains on the lower left hand portion of the screen.... displaying on a screen of a solid light color it is barely noticeable (yet still noticeable,) hardly noticeable at all (or not noticeable most of the time) when watching moving imagery.
> 
> 
> My speakers are magnetically shielded so I know my left front can't be causing this problem.
> 
> 
> Anyone have any idea what the issue is? I just don't want it to get worse (it didn't do this at all when I first purchased the set.) The set isn't professionally calibrated or anything but it is still optimized as much as it can be using Avia (and suggestions from this thread.)
> 
> 
> The TV is plugged directly into the wall and is never left on after I'm done viewing it (which amounts to only an hour or two each day on average.)



I have the same problem with my 960. I thought that maybe its from the speakers inside of the television. I don't know though. I'm not too worried about it becuase I'm going to have mine ISF'd soon and maybe he can reset the "landings " or whatever. I know that their are ways to go into the service menu and do something to the landings yourself. Supposedly its really easy. Maybe do a search with "landings" or "degaussing" or "spot" or something. Mine is most noticeable when my xbox 360 starts up on the screen and all you see is the green xbox logo and the white background. Its a bluish color for me. A person told me once that the magnetic poles of the earth could do this. Like if you have your television facing south or north or something. Not kidding. I know that I've seen on this forum somewhere someone talking about how if you move your television around to a different place in the house that it can affect the geometry of the set. Sorry that I don't have detailed info on this. I'm just an amateur with poor sentace structure and bad puncuation etc.


----------



## mku917

p.s. mine faces South West


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MrGonk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's a purity problem. Turns out, the yokes in these sets are unbelievably sensitive (perhaps that's what we owe for its being discontinued) and almost all of them develop these problems. ... The calibrationist cursed my previous repair tech for messing with the yoke magnets and said that basically he thinks the yoke just warps over time because of how frail it is.



I'm having the same problem.


The authorized sony repair guy will be coming to take my XBR960 in the next day or two, to replace the tube on Sony's recommendation to theoretically solve the reoccuring color-blotch problem in the corners of the screen, because "they don't know what else to do".


Can you provide any hard evidence available on the web, or contact names and phone numbers whereby I can track down evidence that this major surgery is NOT the solution?


Any idea if when the tube is replaced, they re-use the old yoke?


----------



## jamesflames

I had my 960 repaired for the no picture and sound problem. The techs replaced a DZ and By board. It seemd as though the PQ wasn't as good after the repair but with D* I wasn't sure if it was an issue with them. Now I'm certain it's the tv. Color reproduction is fine but HD looks like SD, my sony 30hs510 has way more detail. I tested different HD receivers and both HDMI and Component cables. Can the blurry PQ be corrected with calibration. Can the techs test the resolution of the set? The tech said he reset the tv to factory settings but I've read factory settings are build settings which were before Sony's calibration of the set. I'm just curious if it's a hardware issue or a settings issue as I have an ISF appointment scheduled.


----------



## S. Hiller




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jamesflames* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I had my 960 repaired for the no picture and sound problem. The techs replaced a DZ and By board. It seemd as though the PQ wasn't as good after the repair but with D* I wasn't sure if it was an issue with them. Now I'm certain it's the tv. Color reproduction is fine but HD looks like SD, my sony 30hs510 has way more detail. I tested different HD receivers and both HDMI and Component cables. Can the blurry PQ be corrected with calibration. Can the techs test the resolution of the set? The tech said he reset the tv to factory settings but I've read factory settings are build settings which were before Sony's calibration of the set. I'm just curious if it's a hardware issue or a settings issue as I have an ISF appointment scheduled.



I'd ask Sony to recalibrate it if they reset you to the initial defaults...


----------



## jamesflames

I originally did home repair but it was too stressful, having to schedule around my days off and not being able to leave my home as they give you a 4 hour window, plus time of repair. I had 4 scheduled visits with them cancelling once, it wasn't a good experience. Hopefully they can pick the set up, do extensive testing to make sure it's correctly fixed, and then returne it. I will call them tomorrow.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm having the same problem.
> 
> 
> The authorized sony repair guy will be coming to take my XBR960 in the next day or two, to replace the tube on Sony's recommendation to theoretically solve the reoccuring color-blotch problem in the corners of the screen, because "they don't know what else to do".
> 
> 
> Can you provide any hard evidence available on the web, or contact names and phone numbers whereby I can track down evidence that this major surgery is NOT the solution?
> 
> 
> Any idea if when the tube is replaced, they re-use the old yoke?



Because of various issues, pickup of my 34XBR960 has been delayed. I'm still requesting pointers to or personal experiences with any credible evidence that the infamous 34XBR96 "color blotches in the corners" issue can be solved by any method other than replacing the tube.


If Sony cannot be persuaded that the issue lies with the deflection yoke (or something else), they are going to replace the tube.


In fact, I'll expand my search to requesting direct evidence that the problem CAN be solved by replacing the tube.


I just want my set to work properly ...


----------



## jamesflames

Ladd, I'm with you. I don't care what Sony does or does not replace, as long as the set works like it's supposed to. I just got off the phone with the techs and they're picking up my set this wednesday. If they tell me they need to replace the tube, as long as it's another SFP tube I couldn't care less. In fact I'd prefer having brand new parts as long as they're functioning properly. I think the other poster is saying even a tube replacement won't fix the green blob issue because it's not caused by the tube but rather something else. If that's the case hopefully they will discover that the problem was a "combination" of the crt tube and the yoke.


----------



## redheadguy2001

i work for a very big electronics store and exploring our system i found we still have 4 xbr960s in stock, i also found out we have used xbr960n's


does this anti-glare coating really have an effect? is it worth getting the 960N used so it doesnt have it? or should i go for the new 960


----------



## MotorCityJoe

I would buy a 'new' xbr960 over a 'used' xbr960n any day of the week.


----------



## redheadguy2001

so it is said that they xbr960's coating will get dusty and screw up viewing, can anyone thats owned one for a while elaborate on exactly what the problem is and how bad it can get? and if its fixable at all


----------



## stuart81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *redheadguy2001* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i work for a very big electronics store and exploring our system i found we still have 4 xbr960s in stock, i also found out we have used xbr960n's
> 
> 
> does this anti-glare coating really have an effect? is it worth getting the 960N used so it doesnt have it? or should i go for the new 960




Yes by all means get the new 960. The anti glare coating shouldn't be a deal breaker either way. But "new in box" is a fine selling point. btw i have a 2year old 960 and actually prefer the anti glare coating.


----------



## GlenC

Without the anti-glare, you run the risk of reflection, seeing yourself watching TV, lights, windows, very reflective with out it.


----------



## mr2828

My 960 is just about 2 years old now, and no dust problems I can see with the coating. I like it because it cuts down on the reflections from lights in the room.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *redheadguy2001* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i work for a very big electronics store and exploring our system i found we still have 4 xbr960s in stock, i also found out we have used xbr960n's
> 
> 
> does this anti-glare coating really have an effect? is it worth getting the 960N used so it doesnt have it? or should i go for the new 960



By all means, get the 960! You are amazingly lucky to still have one available new.


----------



## redheadguy2001

yeah not just 1 but 4


----------



## lastxbr960




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> By all means, get the 960! You are amazingly lucky to still have one available new.



PM the location and price if possible


----------



## RWetmore

Yes, please PM me too, thanks.


----------



## redheadguy2001

oh it is in cali, it is cheap too, they could probably ship it to u if u went to a local branch of this store and paid there, but u guys gotta wait till i save up enough to buy it hehe


----------



## lastxbr960

This is Not fair!!

I thought I had the last xbr960.

Now I will have to change my handle to almostlastxbr960.

hahaha


----------



## ejy2733

So far I'm very happy with my 960. I do notice that there are vertical dark bands at the left and right sides of the screen that appear even when the set is off. They don't bother me much, as when its on, I don't notice them unless I really look closely. Is this normal (the set, not me!)?


----------



## Yoda1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm having the same problem.
> 
> 
> The authorized sony repair guy will be coming to take my XBR960 in the next day or two, to replace the tube on Sony's recommendation to theoretically solve the reoccuring color-blotch problem in the corners of the screen, because "they don't know what else to do".
> 
> 
> Can you provide any hard evidence available on the web, or contact names and phone numbers whereby I can track down evidence that this major surgery is NOT the solution?
> 
> 
> Any idea if when the tube is replaced, they re-use the old yoke?



Easy Service Menu fix. Adjust the 'Landing.' Color purity problems will be basically eliminated. Trust me, it's worked on mine.


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Yoda1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Easy Service Menu fix. Adjust the 'Landing.'



In what way?


----------



## Yoda1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stinky-Dinkins* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In what way?



Once you're in SM, you just need to find the adjustments for the Landing. You have the option to adjust Right Top, Right Bottom, Left Top, Left Bottom. You can adjust the landing values by using numbers 3 and 6 on your remote. 3 brings 'em up, 6 takes them down. Have you been in the service menu yet, Stinky?


----------



## mku917

I tried removing the antiglare coating with goof-off and messed up. I applied it to the corner of my screen to try it out and it did work but decided not to do it to my whole screen because the screen is way way too reflective without the anti glare coating. I did mess up a little and took some of the coating off in the viewing area about 1/2 inch. It's noticible when there is a white image on the screen but only if your looking for it. I would not suggest taking the anti glare coating off of any screen for many reasons. The coating is a must have because the screen is so reflective. Also, I have found that the screen is NOT GLASS! It is very hard plastic. Don't ask how I know this. It too difficult an imbarrising to explain. It was a tolerable mistake though. Not in the viewing area from the front but it is from the far side viewing angle. There might be glass underneath the hard plastic though. Anyways just wanted to warn everyone. I'm sure everyone is smart enough not to put chemicals on their very expensive television though.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Yoda1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Easy Service Menu fix. Adjust the 'Landing.' Color purity problems will be basically eliminated. Trust me, it's worked on mine.



Thank you for taking the time to answer (and perhaps your solution, also proposed by others, works for some), but you must have missed all the postings in this discussion thread detailing how adjusting the Landing values is not always an effective solution.


As has happened with other community members, on my 34XBR960 adjusting the landing values works fine until the set is turned off for the night, but the color blotches are there again the next day.


----------



## mr2828

Did you save the new landing values using the special key sequence? If not, they will be reset when you turn the set off and on.


----------



## Yoda1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thank you for taking the time to answer (and perhaps your solution, also proposed by others, works for some), but you must have missed all the postings in this discussion thread detailing how adjusting the Landing values is not always an effective solution.
> 
> 
> As has happened with other community members, on my 34XBR960 adjusting the landing values works fine until the set is turned off for the night, but the color blotches are there again the next day.



Interesting. I've had to adjust the Landing values twice since I got the set. In my upper right hand corner there is a slight yellowing that I can't get rid of. But it only shows up in very very particular cases. 95% of the time I don't see it. I also forgot to mention that, when I got my set ISF calibrated, that I had it manually degaussed. That may have helped but I don't believe it did. I believe the Landing adjustment was enough. Folks who see the blotches persist after a shutdown should wait long enough for the set to degausse itself. When you turn the set on you'll hear a big "whooooom" sound - that's the set degaussing itself. Turning it off right after adjustments without letting it degauss could lead to further blotching. I guess I've just been one of the lucky ones.


I also have to mention that there's only a single magnet on my tube. Some tubes come with many magnets which could absolutely be creating the color blotches. Removing magnets will affect geometry but you can also make more adjustments after that. If the Landing hasn't been the solution than I recommend removing some of the magnets on the tube and see what happens. In many cases it's the magnets that are introducing the color blotches.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mku917* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> . A person told me once that the magnetic poles of the earth could do this. Like if you have your television facing south or north or something. Not kidding. I know that I've seen on this forum somewhere someone talking about how if you move your television around to a different place in the house that it can affect the geometry of the set.




Yes the magnetic poles can effect the beams in any CRT. If you consider how the CRT actually works, its not hard at all to figure out why. All Sony TVs have their final alignment with the picture tube facing west for standardization.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr2828* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Did you save the new landing values using the special key sequence? If not, they will be reset when you turn the set off and on.



Very good advice, but yes, I did save the adjustments.










For folks who are interested in this subject and might wish to offer advice, please click HERE to see a synopsis of my problem and some photos.


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Yoda1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Once you're in SM, you just need to find the adjustments for the Landing. You have the option to adjust Right Top, Right Bottom, Left Top, Left Bottom. You can adjust the landing values by using numbers 3 and 6 on your remote. 3 brings 'em up, 6 takes them down. Have you been in the service menu yet, Stinky?



I know how, but I haven't yet.... I haven't felt a need to.


If the problem gets any worse I'll have to check that out.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Very good advice, but yes, I did save the adjustments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For folks who are interested in this subject and might wish to offer advice, please click HERE to see a synopsis of my problem and some photos.



When the tech was changing the board did he check the shields around the speakers?


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> When the tech was changing the board did he check the shields around the speakers?



I asked him to do so (as I had read before his visit that that was one thing to look for) and he said he couldn't see anything wrong.


Not that that answer really tells us anything definitive, because it might be more indicitive to his skills than the shielding, but I do wonder why the problem would suddenly pop up after 10 months of problem-free use.


----------



## Ladd

I am more dismayed than interested in the latest turn of events re: working with Sony to fix the color purity issue in the corners of the screen of my 34XBR960, but it looks like I have to do some homework.


I just got off the phone with Sony National Customer Relations and they said that because of the severity of the color blotch problem exhibited by my 34XBR960 combined with the difficulty in finding a service provider in, near or not-so-near my area who is willing to work on the TV, there is a very good possibility that Sony will elect to simply replace the TV outright with any model that is currently available via SonyStyle.com. It is my impression that I will be credited with the full $1899.99 retail purchase price and that credit can be used against the full MSRP of any Sony TV available today.


I am told that this means one of two types of display technology: direct-view LCD or rear-projection SXRD (an LCoS variant).


I haven't followed any of these technologies at all in the 13 months I've owned the 34XBR960, nor had I done more than a passing review of them in the two years prior to purchase as I had always wanted the best picture and during that time frame it seemed to me that CRT was the only way to get it (if you didn't mind size or weight).


My only vague impression about any kind of current LCD or LCoS technology is that improvements continue to be made in leaps and bounds (and will most likely continue to do so rapidly) and that possibly one or more Sony models available now might actually be the first TVs that require minimal excuses/apologies when it comes to the HD picture quality.


I'm tempted to say that they can have my 34XBR960 when they pry it from my cold dead hands, but then reality reluctantly intrudes. I've made it clear to Sony that I strongly want them to exhaust all possibilities for fixing my set before considering a replacement with an LCD/LCoS set (and I'm not giving up easily) but it behooves me to start doing my homework now in case I am presented with having to actually make a decision shortly.


Therefore, I am asking for any advice, general or specific, on what I should be researching and considering, and/or which LCD or LCoS technology from Sony, or heaven forbid, an actual recommendation of a specific model of Sony TV that I should consider as either a suitable or as-close-as-I'm-going-to-get replacement to the XBR960.


I realize that this forum is not the appropriate place for a protracted discussion on non-XBR960 matters, but I'm hoping that other owners and lovers of the 960 might have more experience with the current line of Sony TVs and can offer some guidance as to what direction I can read up on.


I may be requested to make a decision as early as Friday or next Monday, although asking me to make a decision and me agreeing to make a decision that quickly are two different things. But still, if you have information you are willing to take the time to type out, please don't wait a week or two before offering it.










edited to note that the rear projection SXRD models were LCoS technology


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins

Are you at all interested in LCoS?


----------



## RWetmore

I would try and get them to fix your set.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stinky-Dinkins* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are you at all interested in LCoS?



Isn't the SXRD roughly the same thing?


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would try and get them to fix your set.



That is what I am currently pursuing -- however if Sony decides that it is simply too expensive to do so (given parts, time and distance), then they may pull the plug.


----------



## gigaguy

I have both the 960 and a Sony 32XBR1 LCD set, from last year. Both technologies have their strengths. You will not see the same black blacks on an LCD tho.

The only Sony flat LCD models I would consider would be the V or XBR2 lines and they are 40"- 46" and start at $3000. The 32" Sony models $2000, but they are not as high a resolution as the V and XBR series. You need to go look at the Sonys in a store.

I personally do not like rear projector TVs.


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Isn't the SXRD roughly the same thing?



Same thing as LCD? No, LCoS has far better black levels.


They're all rear projection though (unlike LCD where you have a choice between rear projection and direct view/flat panel, moving from a XBR960 to a rear projection set may be a little odd at first) so that's something to keep in mind.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stinky-Dinkins* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Same thing as LCD? No, LCoS has far better black levels.



You are correct and I was mistaken in my original attibution that Sony sold only LCD-technology sets.


I note that Crutchfield places LCoS and SXRD in the same display-type category, so I thought they might be similar (if not identical).


Checking Wikipedia, they say the same thing also. Link is HERE and has the sentence: "Commercial implementations of LCoS technology include Sony's SXRD (Silicon X-tal Reflective Display), Syntax-Brillian's Gen II LCoS, and JVC's D-ILA (Digital Direct Drive Image Light Amplifier)."


I have edited my original post to remove the statements that say that LCD technology is the only one available. Thanks for pointing out a particular idea that I needed to research further to get the correct information.


I've read the entire 50A2000 SXRD discussion thread on AVS, and similar to the XBR960 thread, lots of owners love 'em and lots of owners have had problems with them.


There appear to be fewer owners of the direct-view LCD 40V2500 that are unhappy but there is so much to read and process ...


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I note that Crutchfield places LCoS and SXRD in the same display-type category, so I thought they might be similar (if not identical). Checking Wikipedia, they say the same thing also. Link is HERE and has the sentence: "Commercial implementations of LCoS technology include Sony's SXRD (Silicon X-tal Reflective Display)..."
> 
> 
> I need to edit my original post to remove the statements that say that LCD technology is the only one available.



I thought you were asking if the SXRD was the same thing as LCD, I must have misread what you posted - my bad. LCoS is the name of the display technology (Liquid Crystal on Silicon) and SXRD is the name of the set that uses it..... like the relationship between the names LCD and Bravia.


I haven't kept up with the current LCoS models for a while... not since the KDSR 50(or 60) XBR1 SXRD's were released. These sets were generally touted as having superb image quality, but they were not without their problems (the green blob issue being the most widely-experienced.) LCoS is able to generate nearly identical CRT black levels, much deeper than what LCD offers. There have been newer LCoS sets released, although I don't know as much about them as I do about the original XBR1 SXRD'S.


The main issue is the price..... so this may be the limiting factor for you. They are more expensive than the Sony LCD models, generally, but being used to CRT image quality you might opt for an SXRD as they are much closer to CRT imagery than LCD's are (taking into account black levels and all that.)



A2000 SXRD's (from what I've read a few people are reporting green blob spotting.... but it seems less widespread than the issue was with the original crop of XBR1's. These sets are very, very similar to the XBR2's[listed below.] They just lack a few features that you may or may not care about, think of them as budget XBR2's.)


Read more about it here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=701578 


A2000's on Sony Style (55 and 60 inchers respectively: )

http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTE...tion_55to80TVs 

http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTE...tion_55to80TVs 




XBR2 (from what little I've read it seems as though the biggest issue, the green blob, has been largely resolved.... although I could be mistaken. You can read more about it here: )

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=730418 


XRB2 on Sony Style (60 and 70 inch respectively: )

http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTE...tion_55to80TVs 

http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTE...tion_55to80TVs


----------



## Yoda1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You are correct and I was mistaken in my original attibution that Sony sold only LCD-technology sets.
> 
> 
> I note that Crutchfield places LCoS and SXRD in the same display-type category, so I thought they might be similar (if not identical).
> 
> 
> Checking Wikipedia, they say the same thing also. Link is HERE and has the sentence: "Commercial implementations of LCoS technology include Sony's SXRD (Silicon X-tal Reflective Display), Syntax-Brillian's Gen II LCoS, and JVC's D-ILA (Digital Direct Drive Image Light Amplifier)."
> 
> 
> I have edited my original post to remove the statements that say that LCD technology is the only one available. Thanks for pointing out a particular idea that I needed to research further to get the correct information.
> 
> 
> I've read the entire 50A2000 SXRD discussion thread on AVS, and similar to the XBR960 thread, lots of owners love 'em and lots of owners have had problems with them.
> 
> 
> There appear to be fewer owners of the direct-view LCD 40V2500 that are unhappy but there is so much to read and process ...




I think you should try and get your money fully refunded and go with plasma. They're the most CRT-like displays on the market. If that fails, go with SXRD. If you're a stickler for blacks (like me), I can't imagine you'll ever be happy with a flat panel LCD.


----------



## RWetmore

IMO, LCD's biggest shortcomings are response time (motion blur) and black levels (weak shadow and lower greydation detail). Their biggest pluses are zero flicker and outstanding clarity/resolution. Tough to go from a high quality CRT like the 960 to an LCD and be satisfied.


----------



## Ladd

I appreciate the opinions and advice offered by some folks regarding my dilemma, and also the patience of the other readers in putting up with the semi 960-related comparisons.


Any other advice, tips, links, whatever still sought!


----------



## foxfan

Aargh! I just don't know what to do about my TV's cold tuner problem. At first a Sony repair place told me to just fax the receipt, they'll order the part (q-box) and will tell me when to bring it in. Now they're saying they can't order the part without having the TV there so they can see it themselves. I really don't want to drive two hours to bring the TV, drive two hours to get back, drive another two to go pick up the TV, and then drive another two to bring it home.


I only have two months left for the warranty. What should I do? I doubt that I'll be able to convince Sony USA to pay a Sony Canada tech to fix it...


I wish there would be some homemade fix available for such a minor (albeit irritating) problem.


----------



## Garvey

Did anyone mention angle-of-view? The sweetspot on LCDs is pretty narrow, esp. compared to a CRT. So unless your TV watching consists only or primarily of "selfish mode" (e.g., lazyboy set four feet from the screen, front and center, the way my father-in-law watches TV), this may affect your purchase.


----------



## mr2828

Foxfan I thought the Sony warranty includes in-home service. I haven't heard of many other folks here being asked to take their TV anywhere because usually the techs came to their house. But I could be wrong.


----------



## patsan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr2828* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Foxfan I thought the Sony warranty includes in-home service. I haven't heard of many other folks here being asked to take their TV anywhere because usually the techs came to their house. But I could be wrong.



The warrantee does include in-home service.


----------



## jamesflames

Sony does have in-home repair but in my experience your best bet would be to have them come and pick up the set. I had 4 scheduled tech visits and one was cancelled by them the day of the visit at the last hour of the four hour window. If they come out and their replacement part is a dud they have to reorder the part and you have to reschedule. Then you have to wait another day and hope they get it right the next time. Some issues are caused by more than one failing part also. After the multiple visits and days stuck at home waiting I decided to have them pick up the set, do all the necessary repairs at their shop and only after extensive testing return the set to me.


----------



## foxfan

The problem is that Sony's in-home warranty is only valid in the U.S. My TV is in Canada, considered to be a foreign country even though I'm only 30 minutes from the border.


I wouldn't mind bringing it once across the border to get fixed, but I don't want to bring it, leave it, and then go back to get it again...


----------



## lazerfan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I appreciate the opinions and advice offered by some folks regarding my dilemma, and also the patience of the other readers in putting up with the semi 960-related comparisons.
> 
> 
> Any other advice, tips, links, whatever still sought!



If they can't fix your set, maybe they can still get you an XBR970? You'll lose some clarity, but you'll retain the great black levels and shadow detail that you are used to.

I can attest to avoiding an LCD direct view. I purchased the Sony 32" XBR1 LCD last November and have never really been happy with it. Even though my new 34HS420 has less picture detail, I'm much happier with it overall.


----------



## liquidneba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am more dismayed than interested in the latest turn of events re: working with Sony to fix the color purity issue in the corners of the screen of my 34XBR960, but it looks like I have to do some homework.
> 
> 
> I just got off the phone with Sony National Customer Relations and they said that because of the severity of the color blotch problem exhibited by my 34XBR960 combined with the difficulty in finding a service provider in, near or not-so-near my area who is willing to work on the TV, there is a very good possibility that Sony will elect to simply replace the TV outright with any model that is currently available via SonyStyle.com. It is my impression that I will be credited with the full $1899.99 retail purchase price and that credit can be used against the full MSRP of any Sony TV available today.
> 
> 
> I am told that this means one of two types of display technology: direct-view LCD or rear-projection SXRD (an LCoS variant).
> 
> 
> I haven't followed any of these technologies at all in the 13 months I've owned the 34XBR960, nor had I done more than a passing review of them in the two years prior to purchase as I had always wanted the best picture and during that time frame it seemed to me that CRT was the only way to get it (if you didn't mind size or weight).
> 
> 
> My only vague impression about any kind of current LCD or LCoS technology is that improvements continue to be made in leaps and bounds (and will most likely continue to do so rapidly) and that possibly one or more Sony models available now might actually be the first TVs that require minimal excuses/apologies when it comes to the HD picture quality.
> 
> 
> I'm tempted to say that they can have my 34XBR960 when they pry it from my cold dead hands, but then reality reluctantly intrudes. I've made it clear to Sony that I strongly want them to exhaust all possibilities for fixing my set before considering a replacement with an LCD/LCoS set (and I'm not giving up easily) but it behooves me to start doing my homework now in case I am presented with having to actually make a decision shortly.
> 
> 
> Therefore, I am asking for any advice, general or specific, on what I should be researching and considering, and/or which LCD or LCoS technology from Sony, or heaven forbid, an actual recommendation of a specific model of Sony TV that I should consider as either a suitable or as-close-as-I'm-going-to-get replacement to the XBR960.
> 
> 
> I realize that this forum is not the appropriate place for a protracted discussion on non-XBR960 matters, but I'm hoping that other owners and lovers of the 960 might have more experience with the current line of Sony TVs and can offer some guidance as to what direction I can read up on.
> 
> 
> I may be requested to make a decision as early as Friday or next Monday, although asking me to make a decision and me agreeing to make a decision that quickly are two different things. But still, if you have information you are willing to take the time to type out, please don't wait a week or two before offering it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edited to note that the rear projection SXRD models were LCoS technology




SONY will not return any money to you they will give you credit to purchase another TV through Sonystyle. Also the credit you will receive will not be the full purchase price, but the depreciated value for a ~2 year old TV. How do I know this? Last year (you can search for my posts in this thread), I had my 960 replaced twice. Trust me, I hate it too, they should give you a refund check for the full amount so you can spend it on any TV and from any store. But they won't. See if you can get them to replace every major part on the TV!!! Good luck.


----------



## jpl3447

I got the 34XBR960 delivered this morning from Best Buy. BB had a floor model but it had a chip inthe tube. I posted about it in this thread here . I didn't want it so the sales guy did a search in the surrounding states at the other stores and found a new in the box 960! After some effort and thanks to a AVS member here for suggestions on how to get it to my BB from that BB the television was transferred successfully.

It was pretty hard for the two big delivery guys to get it up the stairs to my loft but with my help we managed. The guy who took the under position when carrying it up the stairs had jello legs when he was done lol.

I just used the settings that I came up with using the Avia on my 30SX955 and transferred the same values to the 960. It looks great and will do until I find an ISF person in town to do both TV's.

I am glad to have this TV.


----------



## RWetmore

Hey congrats...you are very fortunate to have found a new one this late in the hunt. I'm sure many will be envious.


----------



## jpl3447




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey congrats...you are very fortunate to have found a new one this late in the hunt. I'm sure many will be envious.



Thanks. I still almost can't believe that I found one, considering what I have read about the scarcity of it. The sales guy and I sat in front of the computer and looked at the inventory of BB's in three or four surrounding states. I guess they divide their stores into 'regions'. So a quick glance at each region will tell you what they have. There is still at least one new in the box somewhere out there and several display models. The system differentiates between new and open box items. Circuit City had one display model in my state but their search system is not as easy to use as BB's. One has to enter each individual store number in in order to see what they have, versus seeing a slew of stores (in a region) being compared.


The build date on mine is May 2005.


----------



## gigaguy

Interesting, I've been trying to sell my 960 (build date June05) locally for a while. Only 2 people responded to my ads (ebay, craigslist, newspaper) and they want to pay a third of what I wanted. Most people don't want tube sets anymore, no matter how good they are. Sold it to work friend (who is not an AV enthusiast) for pretty cheap with a Scandinavian teak ent. center thrown in.


----------



## pharmerphil

I have owned my 960N for about 6 months now. Only problem up til now has been it not wanting "come on" after hitting the power button. I unplug the power supply from the outlet and that seems to correct it for a few wks. before it does it again. Been doing this since the 3rd. wk. of ownership. The newest "bug" is that I'm now getting a scratchy, static sound through the internal speakers ocassionally. Usually happens on one of the premium channels through my Dish receiver. Volume doesn't seem to trigger the sound but more of a certain frequency level. Tried adjusting the audio bass/treble and thesound mode settings but that didn't help any. Watching the movie "The Island" last wk. and this sound occurred in 4 or 5 spots which last for only a few seconds or so. Hasn't done it since then. It resembles the "blown speaker" type noise but high volume won't create the static noise. Any ideas or suggestions as to what might be the cause and the remedy? Thanx.


----------



## wbrett




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpl3447* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Circuit City had one display model in my state



If that's accurate then that must be the one I bought last Thursday.







I went into CC thinking I'd be getting the 970 and they had a 960 on display.


I'm pretty dang impressed at this point and I haven't even done any tweaking yet. I've got a lot of reading to do but I would be really grateful if I could get some initial advice as a brand new 960 owner (how many pages is this thread







).


I have AVIA but haven't had a chance to run it yet.


Signed up just now just so I could talk with you guys about this set. Looking forward to learning all about the 960.


----------



## jpl3447




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wbrett* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If that's accurate then that must be the one I bought last Thursday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went into CC thinking I'd be getting the 970 and they had a 960 on display.
> 
> 
> I'm pretty dang impressed at this point and I haven't even done any tweaking yet. I've got a lot of reading to do but I would be really grateful if I could get some initial advice as a brand new 960 owner (how many pages is this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 
> I have AVIA but haven't had a chance to run it yet.
> 
> 
> Signed up just now just so I could talk with you guys about this set. Looking forward to learning all about the 960.




That is the one I was talking about







It was in OKC.


I was going to drive down and look at it and then decided to get the one from BB. This was about two weeks ago. Congrats on your new purchase!


I have read that in this thread there are settings posted that Avia users have come up with and they seem pretty close to one another. So just inputting the settings can save you from using the Avia until an ISF tech calibrates it. I don't know what the settings are since this thread is so big but I am sure a search can find some of them.


Again congrats on getting that TV!


----------



## papi34

I must admit, I was enamored with getting my hands on a KD-34XBR960 when I first started reading this thread. I ended up settling for a KD-34XBR970. However, the thought of having to unplug the 960 and cross my fingers that it powers up every so often seems like a bit much. I'd like to see the truth on why Sony discontinued the SFP tubes.


----------



## gigaguy

I've had my 960 for 15 months and it has not had one glitch. Manuf date June 05.

I even have it in a semi-enclosed cabinet and it runs fine. I know the eearlier models had tuner issues. I think mine was near the end of production.


----------



## dicey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *papi34* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I must admit, I was enamored with getting my hands on a KD-34XBR960 when I first started reading this thread. I ended up settling for a KD-34XBR970. However, the thought of having to unplug the 960 and cross my fingers that it powers up every so often seems like a bit much. I'd like to see the truth on why Sony discontinued the SFP tubes.



My 960 has this occasional problem as well. It really isn't that big of a deal, though. It rarely happens and when it does, simply unplugging and replugging it works every time. It's a small inconvenience from an otherwise amazingly good TV.


----------



## Joseph Dubin























Now that the other cataract was removed I can honestly say I am even more floored by the life-like picture of the 960. It's not that I was unable to see clearly and unhappy with picture quality prior to the procedure but now with approximate 20-25 vision in both eyes it's almost like getting a new set. I was amazed how richer the detail, blacks, sharpness and clarity appeared after the patch was removed and was then able to improve the picture even more with a slight increase in brightness and equally slight lowering of my original contrast and sharpness settings using the INHD test patterns for HD (recorded on DVR) and THX Optimizer for DVDs. It is so stunning that it reminds me of the experience I had went the set first arrived in August, 2005. ).
























Of course, I would not recommend surgery as a means of improving the picture but it sure did help LOL. I own the 960 model, not the 960N and it set has a manufacturing date of May, 2005.


----------



## jpl3447

I went to my Circuit City and was walking by a box when the numbers 960 caught my eye. It was a clearance tag and it said it was for the KV-34XBR960. It was a misprint... it should have been KD instead of KV. But it was $98.96. Normally these are a lot more? Anyways I got it and wanted to let others know they might want to check their Circuit City stocks for this stand. Looks good to me on the websites!


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dicey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My 960 has this occasional problem as well. It really isn't that big of a deal, though. It rarely happens and when it does, simply unplugging and replugging it works every time. It's a small inconvenience from an otherwise amazingly good TV.



Yea it is a strange symptom indeed , ive had to unplug mine twice in the 7 months ive owned it but the picture quality still amazes me to this day.


----------



## Mick77

I got the last one at Best Buy in K.C. in April. I have not yet had this problem of having to unplug the set. I have had some issues with the set with the Scientic Atlanta HDTV box in the hmdi mode. Some times I would have to power down the HDTV box and reboot it, and leave tv for several minutes. This is never happen with the component mode connections.


Anyway the picture is just super and I am very happy I got it.


----------



## RobertCEO

Does anyone here know of a reason why I can't recieve the analog channels via the cable input anymore? My DVR broke and I have to watch tv without a cable box, so I plugged in the cable directly and did a auto program. It was able to find around 223 digital channels with around 70+ shown, or something like that, but 0 analog channels. I can't watch all the main networks now, just some random miscellaneous digital channels. Even if I try to manually tune into the channels like 3, 7 or 9, which is where the major networks are, I get no signal. It's strange because I use to be able to get the channels before. I don't know what I could've done to make this go away.


----------



## mr2828

Perhaps your cable company has eliminated analog channels and is all-digital now? What cable co is it, and where?


----------



## RobDMB

For those that are still get a 960 from best buy or circuit city, how much are they charging for the set. Also is the 30 inch version essentially the same but just smaller than the 34 inch xbr960?


----------



## wbrett

Mine was marked $949 (same as the 970) at CC but I got it for $879.


----------



## gateway8575

Any one know where I can still get a KD-34XBR960 (new if possible)?


----------



## andrewjnyc

If anyone here lives in the NYC area and is interested in buying a used 960, please drop me a PM...


----------



## redheadguy2001

i work for a sony style store, sony direct retail basically, we just sold the last 2 new xbr960 last friday i was gonna buy one on saturday made me sad, but across the country in the 8 or so outlet stores we have like 20 B stock, which can be refurbished, returned, or former displays. xbr960s and also 20ish 960Ns, there is a 300$ price difference between the 2 tho


we offer up to 5 year warranties on B stock stuff also, so at least u dont have to worry about lemons.


but u can go to sony style.com and go to the bottom of any of the category pulldowns and u can see where the outlets are


----------



## gigaguy

I'm selling my 960 (manuf date june 05) in Austin TX, sorry no shipping. have orig box, remote, manual.

PM me if interested.


----------



## gateway8575

What`s the difference between the 960 and the 960N?

Thanks


----------



## Soshnick93

how can i get my hands on a new one? i live in south florida i would love a new xbr960 but they are extinct i think. let me know


----------



## Soshnick93

has anyone seen any in south florida?


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *redheadguy2001* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i work for a sony style store, sony direct retail basically, we just sold the last 2 new xbr960 last friday i was gonna buy one on saturday made me sad, but across the country in the 8 or so outlet stores we have like 20 B stock, which can be refurbished, returned, or former displays. xbr960s and also 20ish 960Ns, there is a 300$ price difference between the 2 tho
> 
> 
> we offer up to 5 year warranties on B stock stuff also, so at least u dont have to worry about lemons.
> 
> 
> but u can go to sony style.com and go to the bottom of any of the category pulldowns and u can see where the outlets are



What are the prices on them out of curiosity? And can you say which are at which outlets?


----------



## jadecust

I recently had extensive repair work done on my 7-month old KD-34XBR960n which entailed a new CRT and CXPC board. My perception is that now the picture quality, while good, is not as good as it was prior to failure and repair - particularly in HDTV. White contrast tends to bloom and blacks seem a bit too dark - overall, less sharp. Someone has suggested that settings may have been reset to initial build settings during repair and that service menu adjustments are needed to correct.

Can anyone offer clarification: are these service menu adjustments done via the Video Menu options in the Operating Manual; ie - picture, brightness, hue , sharpness, color temp. etc?

Also, would the DRC Mode and DRC Palette be appropriate for adjustment? Thanks for any advice you can offer.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jadecust* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I recently had extensive repair work done on my 7-month old KD-34XBR960n which entailed a new CRT and CXPC board. My perception is that now the picture quality, while good, is not as good as it was prior to failure and repair - particularly in HDTV. White contrast tends to bloom and blacks seem a bit too dark - overall, less sharp. Someone has suggested that settings may have been reset to initial build settings during repair and that service menu adjustments are needed to correct.
> 
> Can anyone offer clarification: are these service menu adjustments done via the Video Menu options in the Operating Manual; ie - picture, brightness, hue , sharpness, color temp. etc?
> 
> Also, would the DRC Mode and DRC Palette be appropriate for adjustment? Thanks for any advice you can offer.



The adjustments needed are likely service menu adjustments, especially the focus, landing, and covergence adjustments. See the Sony service codes thread for detailed information.


----------



## S. Hiller

I would still guess that Sony owes you a calibration.


(I'm not familiar with the specifics of how the service menu is accessed. Some manufacturers void the warranty if they know you have accessed it. This was a controversy a couple years back with some Samsung models. Anyway, I'd get on Sony to finish their job...)


----------



## Audiophile1178

Hello everybody... I've just stumbled upon this forum and also have a 34xbr960. I bought it a few months ago at a/v store called 6th ave electronics. I could only find a display model at that time due to the fact that it was discontinued and being replaced. I got it at a pretty fair price at around $980. I've been very satisfied with its perfomance so far. I've only recently experienced two problems that i'm hoping someone can help me out with here. The manufacturing date on the set is june 2004.


1st: Sometimes when i turn on a hd channel it'll come on for a sec or so then go black and tell me there's no signal. What i've been doing to resolved this is by going up or down one channel then back to the hd channel that I want and it'll come in and play fine. Last night I spent about an hour or two manually going through some of the digital channels and noticed that because of this issue the autoprogram doesn't work 100% and found some channels that I get that didn't make it into autoprogram because of this.


2nd: Last season of smallville was in HD on WB. Now, WB and UPN (or something in that area) merged together to form the CW network. This new network is on a different channel and is the only HD channel that i can't find. I called up my cable company (cablevision) and they said that I should get it. I'm wondering if anybody can help me find out why I don't get it or what channel it is on? I live in Hamilton, NJ (Just outside of Trenton). Cablevision said that i could get a cable card which would resolve the isssue of not receving it, but i'm a little hesitant about getting a cable card because I basically get everything now.


Thanks,


Wesley


P.S. If anybody has any suggestions of how to make the picture quality better i'm all ears. Right now, it's just plugged in and running as it was when i bought it.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audiophile1178* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If anybody has any suggestions of how to make the picture quality better i'm all ears. Right now, it's just plugged in and running as it was when i bought it.



What? You haven't read the almost 5,000 messages posted in this discussion thread yet, where multiple answers to your question are buried?











Welcome our little corner of the universe.


As a gesture of good faith to a newcomer who asks politely (OK, and because it is easy for me to do), here is a compilation of settings that I collected from different postings here about a year ago -- pick one and give it a try. Then try another ...


**********************************************


XBR960



Contrast/Picture: 45

Brightness: 31 middle setting

Tint/Hue: middle setting

Color: 31

Hue: dead center 0

SHARPNESS to "MIN"

"Clear Edge VM" to OFF

Color temp: Neutral


------------------------------------



USING HDMI:


MODE: PRO

PICTURE: 34

BRIGHTNESS: 22

COLOR: 31

HUE: R5 (toward red)

SHARPNESS: 30

CLEAR EDGE: Medium

COLOR AXIS: Monitor

MODE MEMORY: On


-----------------------------------


Plasma look-alike:


Mode - standard

Picture - 48

Brightness - 31

Color - 31

Hue - 0

Sharpness - 20

Color Temp - Neutral

Clear Edge VM - off

DRC Palette - default

Color Axis - monitor


-----------------------


THE first number is for Digital Cable, the second for VHS, the third for DVD (used a THX optomizer) and the fourth for DVI.


Mode: Pro on all

Picture: 37, 33, 30, 33

Brightness: 22, 28, 31, 21

Color: 26, 27, 35, 34

Hue: All R-5

Sharpness: 28, 26, 33, 35

Color Temp: Neutral on all

Clear Edge: Medium, low, high, high

DRC Mode: Interlacd, Cinemotion, Cinemotion

Color Axix: Monitor on all

DRC Pallete: r55/c61, r73/c83, r87/c85


-----------------------


Always: Pro and Monitor settings.


Bright and Contrast: 50 is your ABSOLUTE ceiling value.


Probably want to go into the high 30's or so, low 40's, depending on the room light you're dealing with.


Sharpness: Around 20 or so.


Color, Hue: Dead center values. (31 color, 0 Hue.)


Color temp: Neutral


VM: Low. (most folks think OFF)


-----------------------


Try your settings somewhere in this ballpark:


Pro, Monitor, VM off, Color=31, hue dead center o, Sharpness down into the teens, Brightness around high 30's low 40's, contrast about the same, give or take.


50 is a ceiling you really shouldn't cross.


Picture to Warm.


-----------------------


These are the settings it took me a month to settle on:


DVD - Movie, Picture 29, Brightness 27, Color 30, R2, Sharpness 29, Color Temp warm, Clear Edge high, DRC Mode cinamotion, DRC Palette r53, c53, Color Axis default.


HDMI - Movie, Picture 34, Brightness 23, Color 33, R2, Sharpness 37, Color Temp warm, Clear Edge high, default on.


Any feedback from fellow 960 users would be greatly appreciate.


I also have settings for digital cable and VHS but haven't written them down on paper.


While he Avia is well recommended, assume it cannot be used for HD since it can only be used through a DVD player and my callibrations for HD do differ from DVD.


-----------------------


For starters, set your viewing mode to Pro, Picture to around 31 (50%), Brightness around 45-50, Color and Hue around 31, and Sharpness around 29. Color Temp to use is Neutral, for DRC use Interlaced and try to keep Clear Edge "off."


-------------------------


STANDARD MODE ADJUSTMENT SETTINGS:


Standard (the same settings are different in each mode because of the circuitry)

picture/contrast: 34

bright: 42

color: 27

hue/tint: 0

sharp: 31

temp: cool

VM: high (the hard core folks will balk at this but it makes std def look fantastic and does not adversely affect hi def on my XBR; A calibration is another matter with this setting

color axis: default (the skin tones on most stations look better to me. You may prefer monitor -- your choice).


---------------------------------


VIVID MODE ADJUSTMENT SETTINGS:

VIDEO 7 (HD): vivid, 32, 19, 32, R2, 11, warm, high, default on.


VIDEO 5 (component DVD): vivid, 20, 31, 29, R2, 19, warm, high, cinemotion, Palette 61, 54, default on.


VIDEO 4 (VHS): Vivid, 29, 17, 22, R2, 23, warm, low, cinemotion, Palette 82/81, default on.


VIDEO 1 (Standard Cable S Video): Vivid, 32, 26, 23, R2, 21, warm, low, interlaced, Palette 60/1, Default on.


-------------------------------------


always have sharpness OFF!!!


---------------------------------------


I, and DVE, strongly recommend that you set sharpness=MIN on your 720p/1080i HD inputs as well as your 480P DVD inputs. Sharpness in the low-20 range is probably (or possibly) what you'll need for your 480i SD inputs. Turning off sharpness (which is after all only artificially constructed edge enhancement, and is not something that is present in the true source video content) completely for HD inputs will bring out the best of the 960's tube and electronics and make you gasp at how realistic and 3D what you see onscreen appears to be.


I use INPUT6 for 720p/1080i source. PRO, VM off, color temp cool, sharpness MIN, picture 35, brightness 32, color 31, hue 0, Advanced - color axis DEFAULT, mode memory ON.


I use INPUT5 for 480p DVD (and my Sony DVP-9000ES has a slightly darker component video output than my HD source devices). PRO, VM off, color temp cool, sharpness MIN, picture 34, brightness 36, color 36, hue G1, Advanced - color axis DEFAULT, mode memory ON.


I use INPUT1 for D* SD via S-video, with PRO, VM off, color temp cool, picture 39, brightness 33, color 34, hue 0, sharpness 21, Advanced - color axis DEFAULT, mode memory ON. I also have DRC=progressive.


I use INPUT3 for OTA and Comcast cable SD channels via S-video, with PRO, VM off, color temp cool, picture 40, brightness 34, color 34, hue 0, sharpness 19, Advanced - color axis DEFAULT, mode memory ON, and DRC=progressive.


Very significant is the recommended service menu adjustment to reduce "red push" and bring skin tone colors back to human! These are the four items 13-16 in the 2170P-4 group: RYR->13, RYB->15, GYR->5, GYB->4. I think you will find the positive effect of these four adjustments to be gigantic. These SM values are implicit in the above settings for color, hue, brightness and picture for the various inputs. [NOTE: service menu tweaks should ALWAYS be accompanied by first writing down the current value before adjusting, so that you can revert back to that value if something goes wrong or you change your mind, or at the very least for your historical record keeping.)


-----------------------------------------


Many people recommend starting with Monitor: Pro (and pumping up the other settings a bit), others say start with Monitor: Vivid and reducing many other settings


------------------------------------------


----------



## Audiophile1178

Thank you for your reply. I'm at work now so i'll have to look at those settings later. I also have a dvp-s9000es. Would you happen to know any of the answers to my first two questions? Also, would there be any point in getting one of the newer sony es dvd players for its upconversion? I believe it's ns9100es or something like that. I think the picture from my 9000es at 480p is pretty damn good, but am wondering if it could be better.


Thanks again,


Wesley


----------



## Chorgey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audiophile1178* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If anybody has any suggestions of how to make the picture quality better i'm all ears. Right now, it's just plugged in and running as it was when i bought it.



Hello and welcome to the forum! I strongly recommend that you have your set ISF callibrated. I would always try to find the right settings for the best possible picture quality but ever since my 960 was callibrated, I don't even touch the settings anymore.


----------



## Audiophile1178

How much does this service cost to get done? I assume that someone comes out to my house?


----------



## Chorgey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audiophile1178* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How much does this service cost to get done? I assume that someone comes out to my house?



I had Eliab from Avical come out to my house for the callibration. He is in North Jersey but came to my neck of the woods for the session. The total price was $350 (Tier 2) and worth every penny of it, the price is lower than the posted $450 because it's a Direct View Display. He is highly recommended. Eliab had nothing but great things to say about the 960. The URL is www.avical.com


----------



## Audiophile1178

Thank you everybody for your help so far, but I think we're getting off on a tangent here. Getting a good picture is important, but not my main concern. If anybody could help me out with either of my two problems i'd greatly appreciate it.


----------



## jpl3447

About question #2 regarding HD broadcasts of Smallville I asked about that too in my area forum for the high definition services (there is a forum dedicated to this in elsewhere on this site). I was told that the new merger didn't create a digital channel yet so I must live with standard definition broadcasts for now. I am in Tulsa, OK and using COX cable. I wouldn't be surprised if this was nationwide.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As a gesture of good faith to a newcomer who asks politely (OK, and because it is easy for me to do), here is a compilation of settings that I collected from different postings here about a year ago -- pick one and give it a try. Then try another ...
> 
> 
> **********************************************
> 
> ------------------------------------------



Great post Ladd! It should be a sticky at the start of the trhead.


----------



## Audiophile1178




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpl3447* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> About question #2 regarding HD broadcasts of Smallville I asked about that too in my area forum for the high definition services (there is a forum dedicated to this in elsewhere on this site). I was told that the new merger didn't create a digital channel yet so I must live with standard definition broadcasts for now. I am in Tulsa, OK and using COX cable. I wouldn't be surprised if this was nationwide.



Yes I heard the same thing as well in many other areas. That's not the case for me though... There is a CW11 in HD in my area and my cable company said that i would get it if I get a cable card. I'm just wondering why that's the only HD channel that I don't recieve? I might have to get a cable card I guess... Yesterday, I watched the season premier of Las vegas on NBC HD and for the first 10 mins or so it wasn't in HD. I thought that was a little odd and then when they came back after the first commercial it immediately changed to HD with 5.1 surround sound. Kinda weird... Maybe they had trouble getting it to run or something...


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ladd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As a gesture of good faith to a newcomer who asks politely (OK, and because it is easy for me to do), here is a compilation of settings that I collected from different postings here about a year ago -- pick one and give it a try. Then try another ...



While this isn't really the thread to talk about service menu tweaks and techniques (there is that other large "reference source" one which we all rely on for true details), I must question the wide variation in some of your quoted settings, which I disagree with. These variations seem impossible to rationalize, other than being caused by source differences on the various inputs.


But given a common source device to multiple XBR960 inputs, and standard reference setup media (e.g. DVE) test patterns, I would understand only very small differences in the PRO settings for the XBR960 for each input.


In particular, I don't agree that HDMI should be different to any significant degree from INPUT5/6 which are the component video inputs... assuming the same source device. For example, I can't imagine any situation in which the following settings would be appropriate for HDMI, other than to compensate for some very strange source device characteristics (perhaps an up-converting DVD player with very odd video characteristics based on its own mis-settings?):


USING HDMI:


MODE: PRO

PICTURE: 34

BRIGHTNESS: 22

COLOR: 31

HUE: R5 (toward red)

SHARPNESS: 30

CLEAR EDGE: Medium

COLOR AXIS: Monitor

MODE MEMORY: On



In particular, I personally cannot recommend SHARPNESS to be anything other than "MIN" for all high-definition sources on INPUT5-7 and iLink. In my opinion, a non-zero SHARPNESS value is only possibly appropriate on SD inputs (1-3) to compensate for awful delivery of SD because of channel or provider characteristics.


Also, why would HUE be so far off of 0 on a digitally delivered video stream?


I know we XBR960 owners all have our own sets of settings (mostly because of different source devices and providers), and that at least some of it is subjective (e.g. different viewing room conditions might justify a higher PICTURE value during broad daylight than at night or in the dark), but the XBR960 exhibits essentially zero difference in picture quality from component video input and HDMI/iLink input... from the same source... and there's no reasonable explanation for such radically different settings as you quote.


So, just as an alternative recommendation for the OP (newcomer XBR960 owner) to try as a starting point, I prefer COLOR AXIS = DEFAULT and COLOR TEMP = COOL, so my settings for component video INPUT6 (used strictly for 720p/1080i content coming from my DVR and D-VHS devices, via Zektor switch) are:


MODE: PRO

PICTURE: 35

BRIGHTNESS: 32

COLOR: 31

HUE: 0

SHARPNESS: MIN

CLEAR EDGE: OFF

COLOR AXIS: DEFAULT


For INPUT7 and iLink I only have small differences, namely:


PICTURE: 34

BRIGHTNESS: 31


For INPUT5 (which I use strictly for my 480p Sony 9000ES DVD, and its own component video characteristics and video settings) the changes I have from INPUT6 are:


PICTURE: 34

BRIGHTNESS: 36

COLOR: 36

HUE: G1

DRC: Cinemotion


In contrast, my INPUT1 (SD, fed from D* satellite E45 receiver and S-video) I have these other minor differences from the full INPUT6 set above:


PICTURE: 39

BRIGHT: 33

COLOR: 34

SHARP: 21

DRC: Progressive


INPUT3 (SD, fed from TWC 6412 DVR via S-video and OTA SD) is:


PICTURE: 40

BRIGHT: 34

COLOR: 34

SHARP: 19

DRC: Progressive



And, of course, all of my settings for color and hue are based on the underlying assumptions of my "red push" CRUCIAL adjustments in the service menu, where I have settled on the values recommended a long time ago in "that other thread":


RYR: 13

RYB: 15

GYR: 5

GYB: 4


Others will have very slightly different values set here, and those settings will definitely influence the user-menu COLOR/HUE which seem optimal on those XBR960's. But what is very important is that some similar adjustment to these four 2170P-4 service menu items from their factory defaults (8,9,9,6) is CRITICAL AND MANADATORY in bringing out the best visual results from the XBR960.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audiophile1178* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> P.S. If anybody has any suggestions of how to make the picture quality better i'm all ears. Right now, it's just plugged in and running as it was when i bought it.



As far as your "operational" issues with the XBR960 (outside of picture quality) I'm unclear on how you've got this connected since you mention that you called Cablevision and they discussed CableCard, suggesting you have a cable coax to your house but no STB/DVR feeding your XBR960 or CableCard for the XBR960.


That means you've probably simply connected that coax to your XBR960... on CABLE or VHF/UHF coax inputs?.


You're describing tuning problem symptoms relating to HD "reception" of local network channels off of this coax, but without a STB/DVR or CableCard involved it's hard to know what the XBR960 is really seeing from your Cablevision provider over its coax. For sure, I wouldn't think this is comparable to an OTA antenna input.


As far as the new CW being in HD locally for you and whether or not it is available over the coax from your Cablevision (again, without a STB/DVR or CableCard involved), I think that is a local issue. I don't know that anything other than (1) OTA antenna, or (2) upgrade to STB/DVR or CableCard from your provider, will potentially resolve this for you... if at all (e.g. CW must be carried by your Cablevision, and they also must provide the digital/HD version of that channel as well).


----------



## RWetmore

Just found two new XBR960s for sale on ebay from what appears to be a reputable seller:

http://cgi.*********/Brand-New-Sony-...QQcmdZViewItem 


Price is kind of high, but maybe they'd be willing to come down.


----------



## Ladd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So, just as an alternative recommendation for the OP (newcomer XBR960 owner) to try as a starting point



If only to not confuse the OP who asked for various settings, your very complete listing of your settings WAS listed in the compilation that I collected a year ago -- your original posting was simply in a more paragraph form rather than your recent tabular format. Which is easier to read though!


----------



## cardioman

My Kd-34XBR960N is 10 months old. Recently the screen has begun to flash intermittantly. It takes about 25 minutes till it occurs. You can hear the static of the tube as it flashes. Sometimes you see green, sometimes white horizontal retrace lines, sometimes black. After a while shutdown will occur with 7 LED blinks meaning horizontal stop. I had service, they replaced the complete "DZ" board (power supply and Flyback) and the "CZ" CRT DRIVER bd. on the neck of the Crt. They said if these replacements dont fix the problem the CRT is bad and the set will need Shop work. I have read all posts, one refered to problems of arcing of Crt pins. The fix was to apply RTv. This was supposedly a service bulletin from Sony. I have PM'd the author but got no response. I have talked to several experts on this set and to change out the CRT is a MAJOR PAIN IN THE NECK. Most will not return the set calibrated the same as when it left. Looking at the CRT pins and the "CX" board I dont see how you can apply RTV. There is three plastic fins between three pins that appear to be insulating the pins around the fins. Heres one more note, this is a heat problem. If i put a fan blowing at the "CX" Bd. the flashing diappears. Can anyone shine any light on 1. supposed "arcing" fix with RTV, 2. similar problems you've encountered with your set, was it fixed. As I research this I am beginning to understand why Sony pulled the plug. Any thoughts greatly appreciated!


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Audiophile1178* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thank you for your reply. I'm at work now so i'll have to look at those settings later. I also have a dvp-s9000es. Would you happen to know any of the answers to my first two questions? Also, would there be any point in getting one of the newer sony es dvd players for its upconversion? I believe it's ns9100es or something like that. I think the picture from my 9000es at 480p is pretty damn good, but am wondering if it could be better.
> 
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> 
> Wesley



Wes, set your 9000 to 480I so the 960 can upconvert. Upconversion cannot be done in the progressive mode and even though the initial output is of lower quality it would look better with the upconversion instead of at 480P.


- Joe


----------



## wbrett

I have a RDR GX300 over component to the 960. I've set the GX300 to 'progressive' and it shows onscreen as 480p. Are you saying that if I turn the progressive off on the GX300 the tv will upconvert the 480i signal to... what?


----------



## gateway8575

Hi! Please help I don't know what to do should I get a 960 or the 40" Bravia. Picture quality is extremely important to me. Your suggestions and opinions are highly appreciated!


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wbrett* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a RDR GX300 over component to the 960. I've set the GX300 to 'progressive' and it shows onscreen as 480p. Are you saying that if I turn the progressive off on the GX300 the tv will upconvert the 480i signal to... what?



Yes it is my experience that the upconverted interlaced signal is better than the 480P signal generated. Noticed improvement on digital stations (non-HD) and the DVD player, after making proper adjustments for each.


----------



## wbrett

Thanks for the reply but I'm still confused. If I'm watching a dvd, and have the progressive mode turned off on the dvdr, are you saying that the 960 upconverts the 480i signal to 720p or 1080i? In the above scenario the info displayed by the 960 says 480i.


Sorry if I'm dense here.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wbrett* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply but I'm still confused. If I'm watching a dvd, and have the progressive mode turned off on the dvdr, are you saying that the 960 upconverts the 480i signal to 720p or 1080i? In the above scenario the info displayed by the 960 says 480i.



No, the XBR960 will display 480i as 480p, not upconvert it to 720p or 1080i.


I believe the recommendation is that (1) you feed 480i out of the DVD player into the XBR960, and then (2) set "DRC=PROGRESSIVE" on the XBR960 for that input. Let the XBR960 do the progressive conversion instead of the DVD player.


The XBR960 will [supposedly] do a better job of converting the 480i interlaced input to 480p progressive for display than will the DVD player.


I cannot speak firsthand, as I let my DVD player feed progressive output, and then I have the input on the XBR960 set to "DRC=Cinemotion". This may be inappropriate or incorrect, but it looks fine to me.


----------



## jpl3447

I am fiddling with my new iLink capable receiver and trying to see if the iLink on the 960 outputs the sound from when viewing digital cable channels to the receiver. My receiver recognizes the 960 and in fact says KD-34XBR960 on the screen... then it flashes "No Signal". The optical output is working correctly when I select TV on the receiver. I am just curious as to if the 960 does use the ILink (when connected) to output audio to a receiver.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

When setting my HD DVD to either upconvert option the output changes from interlaced to 480p on digital channels (and 1080i when the box stretches the picture out uniformly) but the quality on digital stations is inferior compared to the box output set to HDMI (no upconversion) and letting the 960 do the job. The box upconversion results in a slightly enlarged and noticably blurrier picture.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No, the XBR960 will display 480i as 480p, not upconvert it to 720p or 1080i.
> 
> 
> I believe the recommendation is that (1) you feed 480i out of the DVD player into the XBR960, and then (2) set "DRC=PROGRESSIVE" on the XBR960 for that input. Let the XBR960 do the progressive conversion instead of the DVD player.
> 
> 
> The XBR960 will [supposedly] do a better job of converting the 480i interlaced input to 480p progressive for display than will the DVD player.
> 
> 
> I cannot speak firsthand, as I let my DVD player feed progressive output, and then I have the input on the XBR960 set to "DRC=Cinemotion". This may be inappropriate or incorrect, but it looks fine to me.


----------



## Pashajosh

Hi everyone. I just found this site while trying to find info on my new XBR960. I bought a close out floor model at Best Buy that didn't come with the manual or remote. I went to Sony's website but it their document retrieval has been down and they don't sell the remote. I was wondering if anyone here has a new or like new RM-Y201 remote that originally came with the tv that they want to part with (say if you upgraded to a touch screen device or something) or know where I could find one to purchase. I could send money or use paypal if someone has one for sale. Please let me know.


Aside from that I am enjoying my new set as much as possible although I can't get the channel number to come off the screen and I have to work on getting the best resolution from my set-top cable box and other equipment. By the way, that is the heaviest darn TV I have ever seen and to carry it up 3 flights of stairs without a box was murder.


Thanks for reading and taking the time.

Good to be a part of the community.


----------



## wbrett

Hello. I'm in the same boat as far as the remote. They didn't have the correct one so they gave me the one that goes with the 970 I think. I'd like to get the actual remote but I'd like to get it for less than $50-60 if possible. I hadn't asked here because I figured it'd be a bit of a long shot. I'm in line after Pashajosh.









remotes.com 


As far as the channel staying on that seems weird. It should go off if you hit 'display'. And I would think it would re-set when you turn the tv on & off anyway.


----------



## jpl3447

Here is Sony's contact info you should use. 1-800-222-7669 or 1-888-772-7669

Hours: Mon-Fri 9:00AM-10:00PM / Sat-Sun 10:30AM-7:15PM EST


Call this number first and tell them you didn't get the remote or the manual. Don't say anything about it being open box. I had to get a new remote for an open box Sony Dream System that I gave to my mom because the remote was the wrong one. It took about 15 minutes and didn't require a receipt fax. I got it a week later.


Otherwise go to NationalPartSupply and type in the below part # in their part # search function. They have 8 left for $30.51.


Description Remote Commander Rm-y201

Part Number 1-478-821-11



Good Luck!


----------



## Justin Fletcher

Here's two (potentially stupid) questions:


I use my 960 as my primary computer gaming monitor, and everything looks superb at 1280x960 (4:3) and 1152X648 (16:9). However, older games are sometimes not able to go up that high or have locked resolutions. I thought I had a handle on how the 960 deals with different inputs, but I'm starting to think again based on the results with three most common sub-1280x960 resolutions:

*640x480*: Since this is 480p, I expected it to be the best suited for the screen. However, it looks the worst. It is cut off at the top and bottom (presumably due to overscan) and has an interlaced look.

*800x600*: This looks the best. It's quite sharp but takes up only about 75% of a 4:3 screen (i.e. full mode).

*1024x768*: This is the midground in quality, takes up *less* of the screen than 800x600, and looks slightly compressed vertically.


And now for those questions:


1) Why does 800x600 produce better quality than 480p and a bigger picture than 1024x768?


2) Would an external video processor be able to convert the feed from my computer to 1280x960 no matter which of these three resolutions was used? I'd like for the picture to take up the (4:3) screen, and none of the 960s screen modes do anything but stretch the picture vertically.


Thanks.


----------



## Brad Smith

Does anyone know if the television passes the raw audio stream from HDMI out of the optical port? In other words, can it pass DD5.1 from a DVD player connected via HDMI?


----------



## rmsretire

A little update from a very satisfied owner... Had my open-box 960 since Aug 2006 and no glitches(maybe the CC people or Sony Reps really do correct the ones they use for display!!, who knows?)

probably a little overscan on HD content, and very, very slight "bowing" at the edges on SD.......not had it calibrated, yet......Chad B. returned my email and he may swing through North Texas in Feb.2007.....I can wait.....


My questiion is for the ones who bought the 960's made in Pennsyvania, like mine...have you had the same types of issues outlined in this thread? more?/Less? None?...I assumed all came from Mexico......till I read here about the plant in Penn......did not realize this about mine till recently ......was this the last place to manufacture them?


also, Cablecard works great...DVR records 2 at one time, watch a 3rd with Cablecard, no Tivo 3 neccessary (it would be so nice, but $$ is short for now) .....Verizon Fios TV is fantastic


comments or questions appreciated


Happy Viewer


----------



## GVTrainer

I recently purchased a 960 from the Sony Outlet (a display model) as I was blown away by it's picture. Unfortunately when I got it home, I found that the picture is not square. The two sides and the bottom are square but the top is definitely out. If I set the Tilt Correction to +7, it still is out and this is not helping the relationship to the sides and bottom. I called the local Sony repair facility who said that it's not repairable. A second one said it's repairable but not in the home. The Sony Outlet has no more 960's to replace it with but are willing to swap it out for a 970 which I am inclined not to do. I have tried to find this issue in this forum without any luck.


Is this problem repairable? Is it something that repairable through the service menus or does it involve physically moving the magnets? Is it something I can do myself?


I thank you in advance for your help. I'm very impressed with the breadth of knowledge expressed in the forum which I've read so far.


Many Thanks,


GVTrainer


----------



## jhirsche

GVTrainer - Pretty sure this problem can be fixed by making adjustments in the Service Menu and/or by having a qualified technician move magnets on the back of the picture tube. Consider having you TV ISF calibratred, and if possible, ISF'd by Chad B. - contact him by going here... http://www.hdtvbychadb.com/


----------



## Whatnow

Can I hook up a xbox360 to my 960 using vga?


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GVTrainer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I recently purchased a 960 from the Sony Outlet (a display model) as I was blown away by it's picture. Unfortunately when I got it home, I found that the picture is not square. The two sides and the bottom are square but the top is definitely out. If I set the Tilt Correction to +7, it still is out and this is not helping the relationship to the sides and bottom. I called the local Sony repair facility who said that it's not repairable. A second one said it's repairable but not in the home. The Sony Outlet has no more 960's to replace it with but are willing to swap it out for a 970 which I am inclined not to do. I have tried to find this issue in this forum without any luck.
> 
> 
> Is this problem repairable? Is it something that repairable through the service menus or does it involve physically moving the magnets? Is it something I can do myself?
> 
> 
> I thank you in advance for your help. I'm very impressed with the breadth of knowledge expressed in the forum which I've read so far.
> 
> 
> Many Thanks,
> 
> 
> GVTrainer



This issue is quite common with these sets. YOu need to get into the service menu and tweek the geometry adjustments. See the sony service codes thread.


----------



## GamerGuyX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Whatnow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can I hook up a xbox360 to my 960 using vga?



The 960 has no VGA input.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just found two new XBR960s for sale on ebay from what appears to be a reputable seller:
> 
> http://cgi.*********/Brand-New-Sony-...QQcmdZViewItem
> 
> 
> Price is kind of high, but maybe they'd be willing to come down.



Considering they paid $1,375.00 - either someone wanted it bad or didn't have a clue.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpl3447* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am fiddling with my new iLink capable receiver and trying to see if the iLink on the 960 outputs the sound from when viewing digital cable channels to the receiver. My receiver recognizes the 960 and in fact says KD-34XBR960 on the screen... then it flashes "No Signal". The optical output is working correctly when I select TV on the receiver. I am just curious as to if the 960 does use the ILink (when connected) to output audio to a receiver.



As it will output to a DVHS, it does have audio on the IEEE1394 port. Whether the receiver can handle it properly is another item.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Smith* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if the television passes the raw audio stream from HDMI out of the optical port? In other words, can it pass DD5.1 from a DVD player connected via HDMI?



In theory, no.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rmsretire* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> My questiion is for the ones who bought the 960's made in Pennsyvania, like mine...have you had the same types of issues outlined in this thread? more?/Less? None?...I assumed all came from Mexico......till I read here about the plant in Penn......did not realize this about mine till recently ......was this the last place to manufacture them?



Are you sure they were made in Penn? Everything I had read was all of them were made within spitting distance of the Pacific Ocean.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jhirsche* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> GVTrainer - Pretty sure this problem can be fixed by making adjustments in the Service Menu and/or by having a qualified technician move magnets on the back of the picture tube. Consider having you TV ISF calibratred, and if possible, ISF'd by Chad B. - contact him by going here... http://www.hdtvbychadb.com/



Remember that MOST ISF techs will not take the back off the set - and certainly will not try to move the magnets around.


fwiw, the aftermarket magnets that Sony supplies for field repairs are much more flexible in adjustment than what they use in the factory. It really is stupid they did not use these in the factory so they could be moved easier in the field - instead of forcing the tech to order the kit.


----------



## bellbm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No, the XBR960 will display 480i as 480p, not upconvert it to 720p or 1080i.
> 
> 
> I believe the recommendation is that (1) you feed 480i out of the DVD player into the XBR960, and then (2) set "DRC=PROGRESSIVE" on the XBR960 for that input. Let the XBR960 do the progressive conversion instead of the DVD player.
> 
> 
> The XBR960 will [supposedly] do a better job of converting the 480i interlaced input to 480p progressive for display than will the DVD player.
> 
> 
> I cannot speak firsthand, as I let my DVD player feed progressive output, and then I have the input on the XBR960 set to "DRC=Cinemotion". This may be inappropriate or incorrect, but it looks fine to me.



Same situation here, the picture looks MUCH better when output a 480i signal from the DVD player. Just switch back and forth, and you should see a difference.


----------



## rmsretire

HDTVFANATIC.......I thought so too, that's why I never paid attention....but my tag says, " a product of Sony Electronics, Inc. Westmorland County, PA 15666." right below my serial number(9021XXX), date of manufacture(may 2005) and a three character code...DA4.....


Absolutely no mention of Mexico on any parts of the tags.....


no big deal, just courious as to quality control......


----------



## R8ders2K

Greetings,


After reading this thread and wanting to upgrade my KV-32XBR450 to HDMI, I thought that I look for a "low cost" alternative. Basically, was I willing to spend $500 to $1000 for a open box, refurb, or used 960, or wait and bite the bullet and get one of the new Full HD Bravias? I'd LOVE a SXRD, but it just wouldn't fit in my house and just a little outside my price range.


So, after looking onine, calling around, I got lucky.


After seeing that one listed on eBay for $1375 and talking to the Sony Outlet store in Gilroy (estimate ~$600, but none available), and being unsuccessful at CC and BB, I tried Fry's. The Campbell Fry's didn't have one, but when I went to the Fry's in San Jose, I was told that Fremont had two...! So, I drove to Fremont and found one, it was on display with all of the other tubes. It was a little scratched and showing a LOUSY OTA, snowy signal.


I asked one of the sale guys and inquired about the 960. I told him that the San Jose store said that they were supposed to have two of them. He asked what the price was and I told him, "5 to 6" hundred. It was in their system at $599. He went off to check. He came back and showed me the other one. It was open box and was a little dirty and few scratches. There was an old return sticker on it, which was partially torn off. As well, as another sticker which had been removed. He told me that he'd give me 30% off, but then called his boss and said something to the effect of getting it moved and then said that it would be 50% off. I said, "Yeah" and double checked that it would fit into the rear of my Yukon with the third seat folded up. Guesstimating that it should, I decided to get an extended warrant and a HDMI cable as well.


So, for A LOT LESS that what I original thought, I've joined the ranks of the 960 owners!










So, far so good, I'm REALLY HAPPY. And now I'm just getting used to the newer features and settings. It seems a little DARKER that what I'm used to.


Does anyone know of anyone who can do ISF calibration, similar to Chad, in the San Jose area?


Any advice for removing the what remains of those stickers?


First off, I like the built-in ATSC. Now I can what ALL of my local OTA HD. I've gone from a 32" 4x3 to a 34" 16x9, versus the 16x9 enchanced mode. Letterbox didn't bother me, but now ALL of the tube is used. I've finally got HDMI and there's the FireWire (iLink) connectors.


Other than those D-VHS VCRs and camcorders with iLink, is there REALLY anything else that uses those connectors?


Thanks for the thread, the wealth of information and advise already posted, and hopefully advise and suggestions on enjoying my new "toy."


Any recommendations or pointers to threads concerning HDMI and/or component switches?


Oh, and the only noticeable damage that I actually found was that the case was cracked on the bottom. Facing the rear of the 960, it was at the lower right hand corner. I was able to "pop" the plastic back to together.


Thanks!


----------



## rmsretire

Monoprice is a sponsor....and I have their 5x1 HDMI switcher and have been happy......get their HDMI cables and take the others back.....you'll be suprised at their high quality/low price products


Oppo makes a great upconverting DVD player...check out that sponsor too....I got their 971H and it is fantastic.....


----------



## R8ders2K

Re: switcher


Thanks!


----------



## kenrick











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cardioman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My Kd-34XBR960N is 10 months old. Recently the screen has begun to flash intermittantly. It takes about 25 minutes till it occurs. You can hear the static of the tube as it flashes. Sometimes you see green, sometimes white horizontal retrace lines, sometimes black. After a while shutdown will occur with 7 LED blinks meaning horizontal stop. I had service, they replaced the complete "DZ" board (power supply and Flyback) and the "CZ" CRT DRIVER bd. on the neck of the Crt. They said if these replacements dont fix the problem the CRT is bad and the set will need Shop work. I have read all posts, one refered to problems of arcing of Crt pins. The fix was to apply RTv. This was supposedly a service bulletin from Sony. I have PM'd the author but got no response. I have talked to several experts on this set and to change out the CRT is a MAJOR PAIN IN THE NECK. Most will not return the set calibrated the same as when it left. Looking at the CRT pins and the "CX" board I dont see how you can apply RTV. There is three plastic fins between three pins that appear to be insulating the pins around the fins. Heres one more note, this is a heat problem. If i put a fan blowing at the "CX" Bd. the flashing diappears. Can anyone shine any light on 1. supposed "arcing" fix with RTV, 2. similar problems you've encountered with your set, was it fixed. As I research this I am beginning to understand why Sony pulled the plug. Any thoughts greatly appreciated!



My XBR960 did almost the same thing, again around the 10 month time frame and after nearly the same operating time to failure. At frirst the Sony repairman was talking CRT replacement but then said lets try the easy thing first. He removed, replaced and put new RTV on the CRT neck connector and it has not had the problem again after 3 or 4 months of operation.


----------



## BTV Mark

Kendrick, the set is under warranty, so Sony has the obligation to repair it. You may have to escalate the repair "up the chain," but they should be able to repair it. A pain? Yes--for you. But this kind of performance is unacceptable.


One thought--it sounds like you may be about to do some work on this set yourself. My advice is "don't do it." You'll void the warranty. Besides, unless you're fully aware of what you're doing, it could be dangerous also.


Mark


----------



## dlew

After reading many of the threads here and realizing that my XBR2 tv is going to go soon I won't be satisfied with aaa plasma or LCD--I have to get a CRT.


Does anyone have any leads or suggestions to find one of these sets?


----------



## RWetmore

Go into your nearest Best Buy store and ask them to search surround stores within as far a radius as you are willing to go to get one. Check Ebay.


----------



## jhirsche

check the Sony outlets too for refurbs.... should be quite cheap!


----------



## AHammer16




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlew* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> After reading many of the threads here and realizing that my XBR2 tv is going to go soon I won't be satisfied with aaa plasma or LCD--I have to get a CRT.
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any leads or suggestions to find one of these sets?



I know of a new one in IL. Audio consultants in hinsdale IL


----------



## AHammer16

Hey guys I have a question for all of you. I just got a computer with 2 DVI outputs, one goes to my monitor and i would like to send the other to my 960. Is there a DVI to HDMI cable? What would be the best way to send the DVI signal to the 960? I also assume that DVI and HDMI do not carry audio channels.


Thanks again for your time


----------



## killertree

I live in Michigan, is it possible AT ALL to get this TV? I don't care if it is an open item or whatever as long as it works as new.


----------



## Soshnick93

lol i just got my xbr970 and it looks friggen incredable with an ota antenna. i dont care what u say about this sfp stuff the 970 is almost as good as it gets. the 960 might be little better but i doubt its noticable with out being side by side and the 970 rocks!


----------



## DJF(NJ)




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AHammer16* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey guys I have a question for all of you. I just got a computer with 2 DVI outputs, one goes to my monitor and i would like to send the other to my 960. Is there a DVI to HDMI cable? What would be the best way to send the DVI signal to the 960? I also assume that DVI and HDMI do not carry audio channels.
> 
> 
> Thanks again for your time



Yes, you can get a HDMI to DVI cable(HDMI output on one end, DVI on the other). Or, if you already have a a DVI cable you can get the HDMI male/female add-on connector and go to the 960. HDMI carries audio, DVI does not.


I'm curious to see what it would like on a 960. Please post a follow-up


----------



## nabiki87

Hi. I've recently bought the KD-34XBR960, and while it looks great with HD programming, it looks awful with SD and with my game consoles. My 10 year old 32" sharp 31H-X1000 looked far better than this TV when it's not on HD. I'm using component cables, and the picture quality is still fuzz and awful compared to my old Sharp. Is there anywaay ot fix this, or will I be returning this TV to the store in a few days?


----------



## AHammer16




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DJF(NJ)* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, you can get a HDMI to DVI cable(HDMI output on one end, DVI on the other). Or, if you already have a a DVI cable you can get the HDMI male/female add-on connector and go to the 960. HDMI carries audio, DVI does not.
> 
> 
> I'm curious to see what it would like on a 960. Please post a follow-up




I will post a follow-up for ya'. How long of a cable run can i do with that set up? I have about 13-17 feet between my comp. and the 960.


----------



## AHammer16




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nabiki87* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi. I've recently bought the KD-34XBR960, and while it looks great with HD programming, it looks awful with SD and with my game consoles. My 10 year old 32" sharp 31H-X1000 looked far better than this TV when it's not on HD. I'm using component cables, and the picture quality is still fuzz and awful compared to my old Sharp. Is there anywaay ot fix this, or will I be returning this TV to the store in a few days?



If it is a SD signal and you have expanded the picture to fit the screen, i.e. wide zoom, zoom or horz expand, the picture will look like crap because of the SD signal. I would not return the 960 if i were you, look at all of us who own one and love it. Hopefully a more competent person will post a reply to your query, as I am not nearly as competent as most of the Techs in here.


----------



## nabiki87

SD is most of what I watch at the moment. If it's going to look bad, why wouldn't I return it?


----------



## Dunottar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kenrick* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My XBR960 did almost the same thing, again around the 10 month time frame and after nearly the same operating time to failure. At frirst the Sony repairman was talking CRT replacement but then said lets try the easy thing first. He removed, replaced and put new RTV on the CRT neck connector and it has not had the problem again after 3 or 4 months of operation.



I have the same problem. An audible "popping" noise that eminates from the CRT socket accompanied by very rapid flashing of the picture. First fix (re-insulating ) worked for a week. Failing again the same way. Currently back in for second repair. I beleive the so-called Sony service bulletin is bogus since nobody can tell me how to find it. Sony folks can't find it either.


----------



## AHammer16




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nabiki87* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> SD is most of what I watch at the moment. If it's going to look bad, why wouldn't I return it?



Because you will eventually watch HD programming. You have said that it looks great in HD format, just give yourself some time to get more HD programming.


I currently have mine hooked up to a SD DirecTV TIVO. Yes the picture quality is not the greatest , but when i do watch HD OTA or when i suck it up and order the DirecTV HD DVR the picture will be great.


I want to convince you to keep it but I dont know how to do that. It is just a TV after all, it wont feed the starving or solve major world problems.


----------



## DJF(NJ)




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AHammer16* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I will post a follow-up for ya'. How long of a cable run can i do with that set up? I have about 13-17 feet between my comp. and the 960.



Yikes! I could be mistaken but I dont think it is recommended to run HDMI that far. Also that would be pretty expensive for that length. I paid about a hundred dollars for a 3ft HDMI cable 2 years ago. I would try to move either of the two closer to one another


----------



## R8ders2K

Check out the HDMI cables from Monoprice. The HT Guys did a podcast (#100) which talked about a 50 ft. HDMI cable that cost only $95.


And Monoprice is a sponsor of the AVS Forum.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nabiki87* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> SD is most of what I watch at the moment. If it's going to look bad, why wouldn't I return it?




I love the HD picture, too, and the first time I saw the analog image I was pretty disappointed. But I use an ota, and I switched to the digital simulcast. I find SD digital is acceptable on this set. So perhaps that's an answer--say goodby to analog!


Mark


----------



## christophersj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nabiki87* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> SD is most of what I watch at the moment. If it's going to look bad, why wouldn't I return it?



Hi,


Sorry you were misled about an HDTV's ability to display SD material. I was also surprised. If this metaphor helps, its like stretching a twin-size bed sheet across a queen size mattress. But I highly encourage you to keep the set.


Look, my Dish satellite service now offers over 30 channels in high definition!!! Everything from Jay Leno, my local news, PBS docs, Discovery Channel, HBO, Home and Garden, Cooking, ESPN, ect, ect. is in HD now. EVERYTHING is going this way very very fast now.


Also, Standard Def DVDs look FANTASTIC on this set. Please try it. Remember to set your DVD player for 16x9 output.


The only SD I watch now is CNN, SciFi, and Comedy Channel. But those will go HD in the next 24 months easily.


Welcome to the future! It is here now.


PS: remember to take your set out of Vivid mode ASAP!


-Christopher


----------



## nabiki87

I have Dish network too, and the HD service is way too expensive since I'd only be watching the Discovery channel out of all they offer in HD 


And it's not just the TV channels that look bad, it's the video games as well, and seeing how the next gen system I'm interested in (Wii) won't have HD

Thanks, I think I'll be taking it back if this is the sort of picture I'll be stuck with.


----------



## jpl3447

Well Nabiki87 there are many others interested in this TV so if you post your location you may get an offer that is better than what you paid for it!


----------



## christophersj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nabiki87* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have Dish network too, and the HD service is way too expensive since I'd only be watching the Discovery channel out of all they offer in HD
> 
> 
> And it's not just the TV channels that look bad, it's the video games as well, and seeing how the next gen system I'm interested in (Wii) won't have HD
> 
> Thanks, I think I'll be taking it back if this is the sort of picture I'll be stuck with.



I didnt know that Wii would only be standard def. Thats funny. The other two game companies are HD now.


I guess you should go back, then. But you should know that HD is not a "future thing" in our society anymore.


In the next 24 hrs I am going to see these things in HD:


my local news

Sunrise (doc) Discovery Channel HD

Nova and Frontline on PBS

the new Dan Rather show on HDNET

"The Constant Gardner" on HBO HD

Lost

a live HD broadcast from the International Space Station on HDNET

a program about the nude in art history on Gallery HD

David Letterman

Good Morning America

Battlestar Galactica season 2 on Universal HD


and this weekend I'm going to see a great Standard Def DVD movie and a high def football game looking fantastic on the XBR960!


-Christopher


----------



## nabiki87

Like I said, outside of the Discovery Channel (And the live broadcast by NASA, which I just read about on Bad Astronomy), I won't be watching HDTV channels, so I can't see keeping this TV as well as spending the money for Dish's HD channels.


----------



## christophersj




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nabiki87* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Like I said, outside of the Discovery Channel (And the live broadcast by NASA, which I just read about on Bad Astronomy), I won't be watching HDTV channels, so I can't see keeping this TV as well as spending the money for Dish's HD channels.



I see. Well than I would definitely sell the Sony and use the money for something like a weekend vacation, more RAM and hard drive space on your computer, or something more meaningful. This is really a TV for HD videophiles.


Good luck!


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *christophersj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is really a TV for HD videophiles.



Agreed.


I find it astonishing that someone would buy the finest HD-CRT ever built which [once tweaked] provides the most remarkable and gorgeous and realistic HD picture possible, and then complain because 480i SD content looks poorer on the set than were its expectations.


Quite frankly, I have a [1996-vintage] 35" Mits CS35803 on my bedroom wall, right next to a 34" XBR960, both fed for SD from D* (and S-video to both, from two separate Hughes E45 receivers). The XBR960 is "tweaked", and I run with DRC=PROGRESSIVE. And I will tell you, there is no comparison in the pictures on the two sets. The XBR960 is the hands-down winner, even in this 480i SD analog world.


I think the secret might be in the "tweaking". I do recall that when I first got the set (back in March 2005) I too was disappointed in its 480i/SD presentation, and felt that my other two Sony Trinitron sets (27" XBR and 13" XBR) both provided much better looking pictures. The Mits picture is different than a Sony picture, so I tried to limit my comparison to just my other Sony sets.


However now that I have "tweaked" (resulting in monstrous improvements in HD quality, as well as SD quality), and with a high-quality SD source (D* satellite), I must say that I no longer have complaints about the SD picture quality on my XBR960 on the rare occasion when I actually watch SD content on it. All of my original impressions have been erased with the new-found quality [resulting from "tweaks"]. It certainly would help if the factory-provided settings from Sony would reflect something closer to what most of us out here have done.


Of course I don't play video games (and therefore don't use the XBR960 as a monitor for that purpose), and perhaps 99.5% of the time only watch 16x9 HD shows on the XBR960 (where it is obviously in a class by itself). I use my other TVs for 4:3 SD viewing. And 480p DVD's look gorgeous on the XBR960 (I have that input set to DRC=CineMotion).


But... to each his own. Let him take it back to the store if he is not happy. Something else may be more suitable to his specific needs. He may someday realize that if a 34" set is what was right for him, that he's lost the absolute best 34" HD picture he might ever find.


----------



## nabiki87

What are these tweaks? I've messed with allt he settings as much as I can, and they do nothing for the jaggies in games, or the overall blurriness of, well, everything that's not HD.


If I could get even a small reason to keep this thing, then I would. I'm not looking forward to moving it again  If it seems like I've given up on it, I haven't. I've spent most of my time today after work looking around the internet for anything about this, but if this is the best it's gonna get for SDTV, then I can't justify spending the money on this one.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nabiki87* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What are these tweaks? I've messed with allt he settings as much as I can, and they do nothing for the jaggies in games, or the overall blurriness of, well, everything that's not HD.



Well, not to frighten you off but the primary "tweaks" thread is this one . And it's only 72 pages long with 2140 posts! Probably considerably more to plow through than you had hoped for.


But it is just about entirely devoted to getting the maximum out of your Sony TV, especially the XBR960. So if you're a serious HDTV lover and own one of these high-end Sony CRT's, the information contained there is invaluable. I know it was for me.


However to focus on what really did it for me, as far as adjustments, here's a summary:


(1) After taking delivery and being unhappy with both HD and SD (lots of geometry and curvature problems, convergence problems, etc.), I called Sony to get a factory technician to pay me a visit to do whatever he needed to do. This was free since the set was under warranty. The guy got into the service menu and did what I now know to be minimal adjustments, all of which in total did not accomplish much. He finally declared "it's good enough", and "it's within factory spec", and said he was leaving.


(2) Not happy, I called Sony again and they told me to call one of their local authorized service providers and they gave me three in my area to call. The first one was unintelligible on the phone so I hung up. The second one was nearby, spoke English, and could come out in nothing flat. I said fine. Turns out this guy was a genius, and very competent at using permalloy magnets (placed on the back of the picture tube) to compensate for vertical convergence problems that cannot be adjusted with the service menu functions (which only address horizontal convergence problems). So not only did he address my convergence problems, but the magnets also greatly helped my "linearity" issues (i.e. curvature and bowing). He actually spent about 2 hours before running out of magnets and promised to come back later in the week with another supply. That he did, and the job was now finally finished. Again, all at no expense to me.


(3) With my most significant and severe basic factory-installed problems almost perfectly addressed by the second tech, I now read the above-mentioned "service menu" thread, especially the posts and attachments that provided a complete display of all service menu items and descriptions, including their factory default values as well as "recommended" tweaks. It was now time for me to insert my own adjustments, including things like overscan and color (i.e. red-push"). I used the "Digital Video Essentials" DVD as my test patterns (although it is 480p, its results can certainly be used for 720p and 1080i as an excellent starting point). I also segregated my inputs, with 480i SD on S-video and INPUT1/3, DVD 480p on INPUT5, and 720p/1080i DVR/D-VHS on INPUT6. Note that I did not use DVI/HDMI/firewire as input to the XBR960. My experiments indicated virtually zero difference in picture quality from any of these connections over component video, and my Zektor 4-to-1 component video switch gave me what I needed for my multiple 720p/1080i HD sources. This segregation of "source" inputs also gave me maximum flexibility in tweaking the XBR960 by "source" and not trying to optimize the set for many different source characteristics on a single INPUT.



But in fact, I think it was probably the overscan adjustments (horizontal and vertical size and position) and other geometry settings, through the service menu, which had the most significant effect on SD. Turns out the factory overscan is much too high, meaning the image is "stretched" vertically and horizontally to fill out the screen after cropping out about 5% (or more) around all four edges of the broadcast image. This "magnification" exaggerates anomalies and imperfections, especially visible in SD content. By reducing overscan (to maybe 1-2% tops) not only do you now see almost all of what the broadcasters are transmitting but the video image is "de-magnified" and reduced, and things (like jaggies) get smoothed out dramatically. Everything looks much purer and cleaner. The geometry adjustments also include moving the left/right edges for 4:3 content and 16:9 content as well as the top and bottom of the screen, which greatly affects the aspect ratio and apparent proportions of displayed figures. Humans with fat heads or skinny heads or squat or elongated bodies do not look human. So not only did all this work greatly help SD quality (especially visible with Guide/Menu 480i-graphics generated by outboard devices like VCR's, DVR's and satellite receivers) but it also greatly helped HD quality. 1080i HD content now looks like 35mm film... absolutely real and pure. And humans look real. The super-fine detail is astonishing. You simply can't see a pixel or a scan line. It doesn't look like TV.


Second big adjustment (in the user menu) was setting SHARPNESS=MIN for the HD inputs, and something around 19 for SD inputs. Of course it goes without saying that MODE=PRO (instead of VIVID) is required, to eliminate Sony factory presets and allow proper color/brightness/contrast adjustment using DVE (as mentioned above) for each input. You can find my other settings earlier in this thread (as well as some other threads). While a fine starting point, they are specific to my set and my input source devices of course, and not necessarily guaranteed to work in general for others. But edges (especially HD) are now perfectly smooth and there is no "dot crawl". With high quality SD sources you can use DRC=PROGRESSIVE (or CINEMOTION for some content) and things will smooth out even more.


Third big adjustment, "red push" elimination (in the service menu). For me, even after the basic user-menu picture adjustments using DVE test patterns, this particular service menu tweak produced absolutely 100% human-like skin color. The visual effect is dramatic when watching shows like "Leno", "SNL", "Rome", etc. Absolutely perfect color, and it cannot be done in the user menu alone. Four service menu items to be adjusted, dramatic effect.



Granted, my concern was primarily for HD content since I don't watch SD content on this set. I have other SD tv's for that purpose. But the net result of my efforts (especially "shrinking" the 480i SD picture) is that I LOVE my XBR960! Especially how it displays HD.


P.S. - One final comment. My PC (in the same room as the XBR960) has an ATI Radeon 9800 Pro video card, which has two outputs one of which is DVI. The ATI video drivers now support connection of this DVI head to a 60hz HDTV as a second (or primary, if you want that) monitor. While the current drivers now support direct DVI-to-DVI or DVI-to-HDMI connection, when I was doing my research they only supported a component video connection. So I bought a DVI-to-component adapter from ATI, and a long (30 feet) component video cable. Then I connected my video card to the XBR960 (on INPUT6, via Zektor switch) as monitor #2... configured on the PC as 1080i, 1920x1080 resolution (fully supported by the ATI drivers). Next, I fired up "DisplayMate for Windows, Video Edition" on my PC and routed the displayed test patterns to the XBR960. I then proceded to do some further fine tuning and tweaking (of geometry and overscan, mostly) at this 1080i resolution that I was not able to really do on INPUT5 when I was using DVE from my 480p DVD player. I was actually surprised at how different "real" things then looked at 720p/1080i from before this 1080i-based tuneup.


Bottom line: Sony has not done a great job delivering a videophile-acceptable HDTV out-of-the-box in the case of the XBR960. But with patience, some factory-authorized (and free) service help if necessary to get you past some otherwise unfixable problems, and the support and guidance of HDTV lovers on this forum during your own tuning/tweaking adventures, you will likely be VERY satisfied with your XBR960 acquisition... if you love HDTV. This set is truly "reference quality" for HDTV. Unfortunately it is so good that it really showcases the weaknesses of SD, especially with a not so terrific OTA or cable SD source.


----------



## jpl3447

In addition to what DSperber outlined above I found this article within the service codes thread to be useful for tweaking SD broadcasts. At least it is for 480i, I am not sure about NTSC which is probably what you are receiving. In any event, after adjusting canvas/overscan and the RYR~GYB values as well as a few other things I am sure (I kept a log of what I was doing) my SD broadcasts come in quite satisfactorily and I forget that I am not watching a digital channel sometimes.


----------



## Spokker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Turns out this guy was a genius, and very competent at using permalloy magnets (placed on the back of the picture tube) to compensate for vertical convergence problems that cannot be adjusted with the service menu functions (which only address horizontal convergence problems).



That's cool that you got them to do that for free. Nobody I called knew what I was talking about when I mentioned magnets.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spokker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's cool that you got them to do that for free. Nobody I called knew what I was talking about when I mentioned magnets.



You spoke to a Sony authorized service provider? I'd call Sony back and complain, and ask them to give you some more names of COMPETENT service technicians in your area.


If you are still under warranty you should not give up and it should still be free to you. Just keep bulling your way up the phone network, asking to speak to supervisors, managers, VP's, etc., until the proper techinician comes out to repair your set acceptably.


----------



## drkashner

To DSperber,


I just wanted to thank you for the step by step instructions over on the Sony service codes forum to correct overscan on my 960. I have been tempted before to go into the service menu, but didn't want to screw it up. The steps were very easy to follow and I think my HD and SD picture looks alot better. The horizontal adjustment was way off. I can now see all of the ABC-HD logo, before I only got AB . Thanks again


----------



## jamesflames

I had the problem with the 960 not always displaying sound and picture when powering on. The techs came out a few times, with the latest change being the Q-Box. I've had the tv back for about 2 weeks and so far it's displayed sound and picture every time. The problem is I don't hear the tv degaussing when it's powered on and off.


----------



## Spokker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> If you are still under warranty you should not give up and it should still be free to you. Just keep bulling your way up the phone network, asking to speak to supervisors, managers, VP's, etc., until the proper techinician comes out to repair your set acceptably.



I gave up because the warranty card says it doesn't cover set up adjustments. It just sounds like you got a tech who was willing to do the work.


Who serviced yours? I live relatively close to Marina Del Rey, CA. Maybe I can talk to them.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spokker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Who serviced yours? I live relatively close to Marina Del Rey, CA. Maybe I can talk to them.



Just exactly one year ago, you posted a similar question and I responded in this post, in this thread. 


I don't know if you are still under warranty today (so that you could plead with Sony to authorize a Sony-paid visit from a local authorized service provider), but even if you have to pay for it yourself I'm sure you would be happy with the results.


I argued with Sony that this was not "subjective adjustments", but that the set had come from the factory with numerous serious artifacts and visual anomalies that made it unacceptable, and as a "new out of the box" set should not have been so defective in factory-provided adjustments.


Remember... this is not an ISF tuneup. It's a convergence/geometry adjustment, mostly through magnets when that's the only way to solve the problem, plus some service menu tweaks (by Andy from A-V Shoppe, and then later no doubt from you as well).


----------



## Spokker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't know if you are still under warranty today (so that you could plead with Sony to authorize a Sony-paid visit from a local authorized service provider), but even if you have to pay for it yourself I'm sure you would be happy with the results.



I have to call Sony? God I hate them. I thought I just have to call the place that does Sony repairs. According to the web site you just put in your zip code and they give you a list.


I'll call them anyway.


----------



## archon333




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dunottar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the same problem. An audible "popping" noise that eminates from the CRT socket accompanied by very rapid flashing of the picture. First fix (re-insulating ) worked for a week. Failing again the same way. Currently back in for second repair. I beleive the so-called Sony service bulletin is bogus since nobody can tell me how to find it. Sony folks can't find it either.



Dunottar, I am also having the same exact problem, audible loud click followed by picture flashing. I am keeping from happenong somewhat by placing an aircleaner output aimed at the crt thru the rear side. Please keep us informed as to what your next repair visit does. I was under the impression that the insulation fix was all that would be needed.

Thanks


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spokker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have to call Sony? God I hate them. I thought I just have to call the place that does Sony repairs. According to the web site you just put in your zip code and they give you a list.



Well, actually my first call to Sony resulted in their sending out a "factory technician", which obviously required sony scheduling. I thought this would be adequate but as it turns out it was not.


Maybe it's not really necessary to call then to get an authorization for a non-factory warranty visit (free of charge to you) from one of the local nearby authorized service providers on their list... such as A-V Shoppe as I've recommended. If it's a warranty call when he comes out he just fills out his paperwork as a "warranty" call and sends the bill to Sony, so maybe there's really nothing for you to do except tell the service place that your set is under warranty (assuming it still is).


You're obviously free to call any authorized service provider on their web site list (of which A-V Shoppe is one) directly, without first calling Sony, and make your own arrangements for a warranty service call. But just be sure you explain that your set is under warranty so the visit should not cost you anything.


----------



## ckhirnigs113

Hi, I have been really interested in this tv or one of xs955 models for a while now, but I have had no luck finding one new, used or refurbished. I live near Atlanta and I have called most of the Best Buy's and Circuit City's, but they all think I want the 34xbr970. When I explain I want the prior model, they always tell me that they don't have it. Does anyone know of one of these Super Fine Pitch models available anywhere. The best scenario would be a large electronics store that could ship to my local store.


On to another question, I would like to know if I would be able to get any service done on a used tv. Does Sony require proof of purchase? I would not like to get stuck with a used unit that can't be serviced. Any help with any of this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, CK


----------



## masbama

The main Sears store in Mobile had one or two 34XS955's, new in the box, for sale a a great price. Worth the call.


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Soshnick93* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> lol i just got my xbr970 and it looks friggen incredable with an ota antenna. i dont care what u say about this sfp stuff the 970 is almost as good as it gets. the 960 might be little better but i doubt its noticable with out being side by side and the 970 rocks!



You'll never know.


----------



## ckhirnigs113

I went to Sears tonight to take my first look at one of these Super Fine Pitch displays in person. It was a 34XS955. They had it hooked up to a HD channel and it looked pretty good. I went through the menus and turned off Vivid mode and put it on Pro and on Monitor in the other settings. I got the picture to look better than it had been.


Right next to this set was one of the new 34XBR970's and I was able to do a little side-by-side comparison. To tell the truth, after changing the settings on the 970 to match that of the 955's, I was a little surprised to see that I could not see any improvement in the 955's super fine pitch display.


I got the sales rep to plug in a panasonic hdmi dvd player to the 955 to see how it looked and it looked pretty bad. There was no remote for the dvd player so I couldn't get into the settings to change the up-conversion stuff etc... I went to try and change the DRC setting on the tv to progressive, but it was grayed out and said it was in interlace mode.


After all this I still wanted to buy the set, but I think the price was too high. They were asking $1049 and this set is 2 years old. They have an open-box model, but they would only take 10% off. I don't think $945 is any better. I've heard you can get these tv's for about $700 refurbished from Sony outlet stores, but the closest one to me is about 10 hours away.


Does anyone have any advice on how to get one of these tv's for a good deal. Also, I would love to get one shipped from a Sony Outlet, so if anyone knows how to get that accomplished, then please let me know. Thanks for any help, CK


----------



## HDTVFanAtic

I have said over and over, I am hesitant about buying one of these from a non-local dealer - though maybe now from Sony at a reduced price it might be ok.


There are various places that will arrange for shipping anywhere in the country.


Quite frankly, I don't know if they would be boxed at the Sony Outlet - someone who has purchased on would have to tell you.


If not, some type of crating would have to be built - which adds to the price obviously.


I had freightquote.com do shipping of a 150lbs electronic item roughly 1,000 miles for slightly under $100. Obviously the 960 is about twice that - but then again - it doesn't increase proportionally.


Bob Nielsen was the person I used there - and I am sure he could tell you what would be involved.

www.Freightquote.com 

16025 West 113th Street

Lenexa, KS 66219

800.323.5441 x 1729

fax 913.319.0664

email bnielsen @freightquote.com


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Soshnick93* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> lol i just got my xbr970 and it looks friggen incredable with an ota antenna. i dont care what u say about this sfp stuff the 970 is almost as good as it gets. the 960 might be little better but i doubt its noticable with out being side by side and the 970 rocks!



Great news!










But we have to give the SFP tube its due. It does have higher resolution than the non-SFP tube, and at the right seating distance it makes a difference. But does that make the 960 "so much better" than the 970 or other non-SFP tubes? That's up to the person putting up the cash.


When I was in the market two years ago I was comparing the KV-34HS420 (same tube as the 970) with the KD-34XBR960 (SFP tube). The HS420 was on sale for $1,449 at CC. The XBR960 was running at it's regular price at $2,199. They had them on display side-by-side. I already owned another crt HD set so I was familiar with the issues and how to adjust a set to look as good as possible on a showroom floor (which is never the best condition to make comparisons). The new tv was to go into my master bedroom, which is rather large. To get the most "cinematic" experience, I intended to sit as close as possible without being able to see scanlines and artifacts and such. So I stood back about 5-6 feet (the closest I could get given the furniture in my master bedroom). At 5-6' I could tell the difference, as I believe most everyone could - the SFP tube showed no visible scanlines. With the HS420 at the same distance I could barely make out scanlines, and the scene needed to be high contrast in order to see the faintest scanline. So it was essentially a draw for scanlines. I saw no bothersome artifacts on either set. What else? I noticed that the HS420 (non-SFP tube) had a brighter picture (due to larger pixels spaced further apart), which tended to bring out more of the famous color HD sets are known for.


What to do... Well, I really wanted the 960 because I'm essentially a videophile at heart. I work in flight simulation, so I understand display technology very well and always want the "best." But the more I looked the more difficult the decision became. Even though I had the funds for either, I still consider value very important. As hard as I looked at these sets, I could not find a $700 difference in picture quality. The 960 was simply not $700 better, even with the integrated ATSC tuner, PIP, Firewire and such. Now, if the 960 had only been $100 or $200 more than the HS420 I'd have gone with the SFP tube in a heartbeat. So I purchased the 34HS420 and I've been thoroughly pleased with my decision ever since. I have a fantastic HD set and to this day, every time I sit down and turn it on I'm still blown away by the picture quality. That should be every HD owners experience regardless of which set they get.


----------



## ckhirnigs113

HDTVFanAtic, Thanks for the tip. I may end up using them to ship the tv, especially if they are cheaper than the other choices.


----------



## R8ders2K

Greetings,


Has anyone used their iLink connector for anything other than a camcorder? Can it be used with Sony's DVD Recorder (RDR-GX330)?


Fabian


----------



## RM23J8G

I've just had it with Sony....

I purchased a 960 "open box" at CC a couple of months ago. It was the last one they had or could get, so it was that one or I was never going to get one.

I knew from looking at it operating in the store, that the CRT was a bit on the weak side, as I am a broadcast video engineer by trade and have been for almost 40 years. Possibly defective from the start, or from operating in torch mode for who knows how many hours.

"No problem" I think, as right there on the tag, it says "this open box item carries the full manufacturer two year parts and labor warranty".

I get the set, and proceed to call Sony about fixing it. They give me three local places to call. The first one, after relating the problem, says "no way" are they going to get involved with it, because it's an "open box" set.

The second one says to bring it in....which I do...with the receipt. He looks at the receipt,and says..."you only paid $800 for this set and you expect a new CRT from Sony?" I said, "well, actually yes I do, as it's covered under warranty". He says he'll call them and get back to me.

I get a call a week later, and he says Sony said no way. I call Sony and ask them what the problem is. They say a supervisor will get in touch later.

He calls a few days later, and says, essentially..."not only are we not going to replace the CRT, you have no warranty at all on this set". The guy was a complete jerk on the phone. I asked where does the warranty say that it excludes "open box" items, which he ignored. I told him that he better get straight on this warranty business with one of their largest retailers. That guy was the most arrogant jerk I have spoken to on the phone in quite a while, and I am done with Sony. They're an absolute pain the rear to deal with on broadcast equipment service as well, so I guess they're bringing that same attitude to the consumer side now.

Luckily, I took the set back to CC as it was within the 30 day return period. I told them what Sony said about the warranty, and they could have not cared less.

So now, I have a terrible aftertaste of Sony, and no 360.

Beware of those open box sets and your "warranty" coverage, because it's not worth the paper it's' printed on.

Sony can shove it as far as I'm concerned....


----------



## foxfan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *R8ders2K* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Has anyone used their iLink connector for anything other than a camcorder? Can it be used with Sony's DVD Recorder (RDR-GX330)?
> 
> 
> Fabian



Yeah, the whole reason why I bought this model was so I could use its tuner to record HD on D-VHS tape.


----------



## R8ders2K

foxfan,


Which D-VHS VCR do you have? Mits or JVC?


----------



## foxfan

JVC 40k


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RM23J8G* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've just had it with Sony....
> 
> I purchased a 960 "open box" at CC a couple of months ago. It was the last one they had or could get, so it was that one or I was never going to get one.
> 
> I knew from looking at it operating in the store, that the CRT was a bit on the weak side, as I am a broadcast video engineer by trade and have been for almost 40 years. Possibly defective from the start, or from operating in torch mode for who knows how many hours.
> 
> "No problem" I think, as right there on the tag, it says "this open box item carries the full manufacturer two year parts and labor warranty".
> 
> I get the set, and proceed to call Sony about fixing it. They give me three local places to call. The first one, after relating the problem, says "no way" are they going to get involved with it, because it's an "open box" set.
> 
> The second one says to bring it in....which I do...with the receipt. He looks at the receipt,and says..."you only paid $800 for this set and you expect a new CRT from Sony?" I said, "well, actually yes I do, as it's covered under warranty". He says he'll call them and get back to me.
> 
> I get a call a week later, and he says Sony said no way. I call Sony and ask them what the problem is. They say a supervisor will get in touch later.
> 
> He calls a few days later, and says, essentially..."not only are we not going to replace the CRT, you have no warranty at all on this set". The guy was a complete jerk on the phone. I asked where does the warranty say that it excludes "open box" items, which he ignored. I told him that he better get straight on this warranty business with one of their largest retailers. That guy was the most arrogant jerk I have spoken to on the phone in quite a while, and I am done with Sony. They're an absolute pain the rear to deal with on broadcast equipment service as well, so I guess they're bringing that same attitude to the consumer side now.
> 
> Luckily, I took the set back to CC as it was within the 30 day return period. I told them what Sony said about the warranty, and they could have not cared less.
> 
> So now, I have a terrible aftertaste of Sony, and no 360.
> 
> Beware of those open box sets and your "warranty" coverage, because it's not worth the paper it's' printed on.
> 
> Sony can shove it as far as I'm concerned....



Why did you even tell them it was an open box set?


I would also never buy one of these without an extended warranty either - then CC has to deal with it.


----------



## jamesflames

I bought mine open box and have had no problems with repairs. Does you warranty say"OPEN BOX" on it? I called my local Sony authorized repair shop and they said just have a copy of the receipt handy. They've replaced my DZ Board, By-Board and Q-Box without issue. And reminded me to call again if I have any further problems. Unfortunately for 960's Serial Number is probably tagged to exclude repairs now.


----------



## Bitwize

Well, some may call me crazy, but I just traded my 60" sxrd xbr1 for the xbr 960 I sold 4 months ago. Yep, I owned the 960, sold it due to a move, and now want it back so badly that the new owner is doing an even trade for my 10 month old sxrd xbr1. 34" vs. 60" is the only kicker for me, but this goes to show how incredible the 960 really is. I'm a true videophile and the 960 is unmatched in turns of PQ. I look forward to bringin' her home once again. And I will not miss the sxrd anywhere near as much.


----------



## hamm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpl3447* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well Nabiki87 there are many others interested in this TV so if you post your location you may get an offer that is better than what you paid for it!



I'm looking to sell my set soon. Just due to the room size and set up, a flat panel is about the only way I can go. This 200 lb. monster is deep.


I bought it from ABC Warehouse brand new in box on April 23 of 2006. I confirmed with the sales man that it had never been opened or returned, as I was looking for a perfect condition set. Included is the standard Sony warrantee, which obviously still remains on the TV. I've also always used the TV in 'Pro' picture mode adjusted accordingly with the Avia calibration DVD (so it's never had color burn in), but it's never been ISF calibrated.






































I'm located in Grand Rapids, MI if anyone is wondering, and willing to drive 50 miles or so.


----------



## R8ders2K

Has anyone ever had any problems with the HDMI port? I'm trying to determine if it's the 960's connector or the cable.


----------



## PeterTHX

Hmmm.


Declined warranty eh?


I know it has a 2 year from Sony. However their service is through local channels and so far it's been pretty poor. Fortunately I also got a 5 year from Circuit City and they're taking care of it much better ("landing" problem and cable card firmware).

Plus, Sony wanted a small fortune to renew it, I saved quite a bit with the CC one.


----------



## Bitwize

finally got the xbr960....again. so long sxrd, hello 960. man, the PQ difference between the 960 and the sxrd is incredible. shame on me for forgetting. i'll never sell this one again. glad to be back in the 960 camp.


----------



## hamm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PeterTHX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hmmm.
> 
> 
> Declined warranty eh?
> 
> 
> I know it has a 2 year from Sony. However their service is through local channels and so far it's been pretty poor. Fortunately I also got a 5 year from Circuit City and they're taking care of it much better ("landing" problem and cable card firmware).
> 
> Plus, Sony wanted a small fortune to renew it, I saved quite a bit with the CC one.



That's a good call on the warrantee through circuit city. But i got it through ABC Warehouse - i wouldn't say THEIR extended warrantee would be worth it, especially since it would cost another arm and leg through them. If this set WERE to go bad, they would probably give me a 970 and call it square - that's a no-no to me. It comes from a lovely pet and smoke free home though


----------



## R8ders2K

Well, I think I've determined that it was a bad Sony (?!?) HDMI cable.


I think that I've also ruled out the KD-34XBR960 as a factor as my new Oppo DV-970HD works fine with the Oppo supplied HDMI cable direct to the TV.


----------



## PathofNeo

Does anyone here have a PS3 hooked up to their xbr960? I'm dying to hear a review on this.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Has anybody hooked up an upconversion DVD player to the 960? Are the results better as opposed to a standard DVD player with upconversion of a 480I ouput done by the set? Of course, I'm thinking of getting one since it upgrades to near HD-quality but knowing how great the 960 upconverts I was wondering in this case if the difference is only slight.


If it's worth getting, would those manual HDMI switch boxes that sell for twenty or thirty dollars be sufficient, or are the ones that sell for more than $200 (i.e., Sima, etc.) necessary instead?


Thanks again,


Joe


----------



## jpl3447

I have the Sony DVP-NS75H upconverting DVD player and I let the 960 handle all the converting. Thus I have the progressive off, output set to 480i and use the component outputs along with the digital out for sound.


My basis for doing this is when watching the movie _A Perfect Murder_ at the beginning there is a scene where Paltrow is walking past a shop with painted lettering for a sign, and I switched back and forth between the Progressive and non-Progressive mode by pressing the Progressive button on the DVD player. In Progressive mode the lettering displayed jagged edges (in pause) and in non-Progressive the lettering became clear. A similar scene with font should suffice if one wants to try out this.


Ever since I have let the 960 handle all conversion of 480i native source to 1080i.


----------



## PeterTHX




> Quote:
> My basis for doing this is when watching the movie A Perfect Murder at the beginning there is a scene where Paltrow is walking past a shop with painted lettering for a sign, and I switched back and forth between the Progressive and non-Progressive mode by pressing the Progressive button on the DVD player. In Progressive mode the lettering displayed jagged edges (in pause) and in non-Progressive the lettering became clear. A similar scene with font should suffice if one wants to try out this.



Well, it's difficult to tell in pause mode. Upconverting players don't pause very well.

During playback is a simpler to vote for the upconverting player: it gets rid of the tiny but noticeable scan lines in DVD playback. I have this set mated with a Samsung BDP-1000 Blu-ray player via HDMI, and DVD playback is cleaned up somewhat with the scan lines out of the picture.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpl3447* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the Sony DVP-NS75H upconverting DVD player and I let the 960 handle all the converting. Thus I have the progressive off, output set to 480i and use the component outputs along with the digital out for sound.



Do you have the 960 DRC set to interlaced, progressive, or cinemotion, when viewing DVD set to progessive-off?


----------



## jpl3447




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PeterTHX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, it's difficult to tell in pause mode. Upconverting players don't pause very well.
> 
> During playback is a simpler to vote for the upconverting player: it gets rid of the tiny but noticeable scan lines in DVD playback. I have this set mated with a Samsung BDP-1000 Blu-ray player via HDMI, and DVD playback is cleaned up somewhat with the scan lines out of the picture.




I wondered about the pause thing. I thought that if I could see a difference when switching in and out of progressive while paused then something is working right. I would need to do more experiments, looking for good scenes to play back that would work in play.


DSperber... I have the set in Cinemotion now. I don't recall what I had it in when watching the movie... it was a few weeks ago. And thinking of it... if the movie was paused when I did this, would it not matter what DRC mode it was in?


----------



## lastxbr960




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anybody hooked up an upconversion DVD player to the 960? Are the results better as opposed to a standard DVD player with upconversion of a 480I ouput done by the set? Of course, I'm thinking of getting one since it upgrades to near HD-quality but knowing how great the 960 upconverts I was wondering in this case if the difference is only slight.
> 
> 
> If it's worth getting, would those manual HDMI switch boxes that sell for twenty or thirty dollars be sufficient, or are the ones that sell for more than $200 (i.e., Sima, etc.) necessary instead?
> 
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> 
> Joe



I have a Samsung HD860 hooked up with hdmi and component.

I have been trying to find the best combo and it seems that component 480i upconverted to 960 cinemotion which is simple line doubling I believe is tied with HDMI set to 1080i.

I seem to see more detail in the component 480i-960 cinemotion then the hdmi 1080i upconversion and it seems cleaner and brighter, however the hdni 1080i is slightly sharper and darker, not a bad thing.

So I dont know which is best yet.

480P looks similar on both and warmer with inkier blacks but slightly less detail.

I used king kong- incredibles-Aeon flux- madagascar-and some superbit titles to test this.

I am suprised the Sony set does such a good job uoconverting and seems to be equal if not better than my dvd player at upscaling/deinterlacing, but I must test more to be for sure.. I would really like to try a dvd player with Faroudja and see if that is even better.


----------



## bellbm

I was looking at one of these at a retailer last night, and it had some huge overscan issues, mainly on the left side and the bottom.


I also noticed a vertical black bar, about 1/4 inch wide, running down the left side. It was visible when the tv was off.


Does anyone know if this the sign of a tube defect, or something I could fix through adjustments. I'm a bit hesitant to buy it.


Thanks


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bellbm* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was looking at one of these at a retailer last night, and it had some huge overscan issues, mainly on the left side and the bottom.



overscan adjustments (i.e. horizontal and vertical positioning, sizing and cropping) is absolutely adjustable through a handful of items in the service menu. This is probably the one area of adjustment for this set where you can easily achieve 100% desired results.


And you can do this yourself, without "professional help", as long as you have a proper test pattern that you can send to the set. Generally this is done through either (1) a calibration DVD (e.g. Digital Video Essentials or AVIA) which would be at 480p, or (2) by connecting your PC to the set and sending out a BMP test pattern at 1080i via some image display program... if your video card supports it.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bellbm* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> II also noticed a vertical black bar, about 1/4 inch wide, running down the left side. It was visible when the tv was off.



This was on the screen itself? And not also on the right side, or top and bottom edges?


There is a small black border on all four edges of the screen, like a "physical curtain" masking out the extreme outer edges of the picture tube. Is this what you're describing?


Or are you describing some additional black bar on the screen itself, to the right of the black "onscreen physical curtain", so that you actually have two black bars (one physical, the other on the visible screen) on the left edge?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lastxbr960* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am suprised the Sony set does such a good job upconverting and seems to be equal if not better than my dvd player at upscaling/deinterlacing, but I must test more to be for sure.. I



Hi,


This is why I am hesitant to purchase another DVD player. My own experience finds that the 960 better upconverts DVDs with the output of my progressive scan DVD set to 480I (and not 480P). The picture is sharper and more vibrant, even with the 960 picture settings readjusted utilizing a THX Optomizer. The same holds true with my HD DVR. It has several upconverting modes but none look as good as the box set to"HDMI" (which passes the signal unchanged to the 960 and allows the Sony to upconvert). Again, this is after making readjustments according to the INHD test patterns (saved on hard drive).


So even though the prices have dropped considerably, based on the replies I've read so far, it doesn't seem necessary to invest in yet another DVD player for the upconverting feature.


Thanks so much to all,

Joe


----------



## bellbm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This was on the screen itself? And not also on the right side, or top and bottom edges?
> 
> 
> There is a small black border on all four edges of the screen, like a "physical curtain" masking out the extreme outer edges of the picture tube. Is this what you're describing?
> 
> 
> Or are you describing some additional black bar on the screen itself, to the right of the black "onscreen physical curtain", so that you actually have two black bars (one physical, the other on the visible screen) on the left edge?




I've done overscan adjustments before, so I'm familiar with how to do that, and also with the curtains, or shutters, on these tvs.


This black line, was only on the left side, and it was over the picture, basically making the picture darker in that area. When I was watching 4x3 content, it was slightly darker than the frame around the 4x3 box, but only on the left side, which is the side that clearly needs overscan adjustment. The right side seemed to be ok, so I'm thinking maybe this is an overscan issue.

The only thing that concerns me is it seemed visible when the set was off, so I'm thinking it might be a defect in the tube., or possiblly the set was dropped.

Any thoughts?


----------



## bschmidt25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anybody hooked up an upconversion DVD player to the 960? Are the results better as opposed to a standard DVD player with upconversion of a 480I ouput done by the set? Of course, I'm thinking of getting one since it upgrades to near HD-quality but knowing how great the 960 upconverts I was wondering in this case if the difference is only slight.
> 
> 
> If it's worth getting, would those manual HDMI switch boxes that sell for twenty or thirty dollars be sufficient, or are the ones that sell for more than $200 (i.e., Sima, etc.) necessary instead?
> 
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> 
> Joe




I have a Denon DVD-755 upconverting to 1080i through the HDMI port. The difference is night and day compared to 480p on the component inputs.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bschmidt25* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a Denon DVD-755 upconverting to 1080i through the HDMI port. The difference is night and day compared to 480p on the component inputs.



Have you tried setting the output to 480I? The 960 cannot upconvert any signal that is progressive. It will only do it by having the output to 480I.


----------



## R8ders2K




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bschmidt25* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a Denon DVD-755 upconverting to 1080i through the HDMI port. The difference is night and day compared to 480p on the component inputs.



I just got the Oppo Digital DV-970HD and connected it via HDMI. It's set for 1080i, but I don't see it. Maybe, I'm missing something or I need to get my set calibrated. Is there a particular movie where the up-conversion is *REALLY* obvious?


----------



## lastxbr960




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> This is why I am hesitant to purchase another DVD player. My own experience finds that the 960 better upconverts DVDs with the output of my progressive scan DVD set to 480I (and not 480P). The picture is sharper and more vibrant, even with the 960 picture settings readjusted utilizing a THX Optomizer. The same holds true with my HD DVR. It has several upconverting modes but none look as good as the box set to"HDMI" (which passes the signal unchanged to the 960 and allows the Sony to upconvert). Again, this is after making readjustments according to the INHD test patterns (saved on hard drive).
> 
> 
> So even though the prices have dropped considerably, based on the replies I've read so far, it doesn't seem necessary to invest in yet another DVD player for the upconverting feature.
> 
> 
> Thanks so much to all,
> 
> Joe



I am in the same boat, I think when the Sony upconverts to 960i, it is simply doubling the resolution so there is nothing complicated to compute or add to, or guess, as in 1080i or 720P conversion which is not a straight duplicate, this is why I think it has a slightly cleaner, purer look than the others.


However I really want to try one of the pro audio formats. SACD or DVDAudio and Faroudja based Processing at 720P and 1080i, So I may just cave in and get a refurbished oppo 971 or comparable player with a 30 day but back guarantee to try on my recntly ISF calibrated 960.







.


----------



## lastxbr960




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *R8ders2K* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just got the Oppo Digital DV-970HD and connected it via HDMI. It's set for 1080i, but I don't see it. Maybe, I'm missing something or I need to get my set calibrated. Is there a particular movie where the up-conversion is *REALLY* obvious?



Did you calibrate with AVIA or DVE at that res. Also try 720P(sometimes better)

And also try 480i both component and HDMI and cinemotion on the xbr960 and let us know what your favorites are.

What movies are you using as a refence?


----------



## R8ders2K

No, I haven't tried AVIA or DVE yet. Was hoping that it might have been calibrated, since it was an opened box. Any movie suggestions for reference?


----------



## snowmoon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *R8ders2K* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just got the Oppo Digital DV-970HD and connected it via HDMI. It's set for 1080i, but I don't see it. Maybe, I'm missing something or I need to get my set calibrated. Is there a particular movie where the up-conversion is *REALLY* obvious?



Hmm... I don't think you will since the 970 is really meant for it's pure digial 480i HDMI output and was not outfitted with the DCDi chip. It's upscaling won't be much better than the TV's internal scaler. The 971 was meant to be used as an upscaling DVD player.


----------



## jlrmhilton

Hi,


Anyone know what TV this stand (SU-34XBR2) originally worked with and do you think a 960 would look right on top? I've got a decent deal and need a stand.

Thanks


----------



## jwbausch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jlrmhilton* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> Anyone know what TV this stand (SU-34XBR2) originally worked with and do you think a 960 would look right on top? I've got a decent deal and need a stand.
> 
> Thanks



I'm 99% certain that this is the stand I have w/ my XBR960. It is one generation previous to the XBR3 stand which is a perfect color match for the 960. But this XBR2 was a close enough color match for me and the price was right.


----------



## R8ders2K

FWIW, according to Crutchfield, the SU-34XBR2 is for the Sony KW-34XBR2HD, a 34" XBR HDTV.


----------



## jwbausch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *R8ders2K* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> FWIW, according to Crutchfield, the SU-34XBR2 is for the Sony KW-34XBR2HD, a 34" XBR HDTV.



I've been able to dig up the receipt for the stand I bought that works w/ my 960 and it is the SU34XBR1. As I mentioned earlier, it is not a perfect color match for the set. I think the XBR2 stand might be perfect for your 960, but check around further before buying. ;-)


----------



## foxfan

The XBR3 is the one matching the 960, NOT the XBR2.


The XBR2 stand was actually an older one that was used for the 34XBR800, which was the same as the 34HS510.


----------



## jwbausch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *foxfan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The XBR3 is the one matching the 960, NOT the XBR2.
> 
> 
> The XBR2 stand was actually an older one that was used for the 34XBR800, which was the same as the 34HS510.



Oops, my bad.


----------



## Falcon195

I have been going through this thread and I haven't seen this issue addressed and I was wondering if anybody else has noticed this or can give me some idea what is causing this.

Since day one I have noticed that when watching digital OTA channels on my 960 sometimes the video and audio are slightly out of sync. I have had this 960 since late 2004 and even though the problem is not as noticeable it still happens sometime.

I was told by the shop that I bought the 960 from that the sync problem was due to the station broadcasting the signal and not my 960. I tend to believe this as like I said sometimes it doesn't happen at all times and at other times and channels it does.

Can anybody shead some light on this ?

Also is it advisable to set my calibration on my 960 in standard mode using the Video essentials calibration DVD?

Or would in be better to make the calibration with the video essentials dvd in pro mode?

Thanks


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Falcon195* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since day one I have noticed that when watching digital OTA channels on my 960 sometimes the video and audio are slightly out of sync. I have had this 960 since late 2004 and even though the problem is not as noticeable it still happens sometime.



We need more detail.


Where do you live and what channel(s) present this problem? Any particular programs that this is more prevalent on? This might genuinely be a channel/network problem. Also in the past, some specific programs have been known to have an A/V sync problem that was "national" (e.g. Leno Show was notorious until they fixed it at the source... NBC network, as was "Las Vegas").


What are you listening to... speakers in the set, or external audio system via receiver? If speakers are external via audio system do you feed it via analog stereo L/R "audio monitor out" or via optical digital audio out from HDTV to the optical digital audio input to the receiver?



Some local channels (NBC-DT in particular over many parts of the country, for quite a surprisingly long period but thankfully eventually corrected earlier this year) have been known to have more or less digital A/V sync problems at their end and there's nothing that can be done about it. It's not the fault of the HDTV, it's definitely their fault... the broadcasters. For example, the Torino Olympics had serious A/V sync (and level!) problems.


This type of "built-in" A/V sync problem caused by the broadcaster will be noticeable on your HDTV even if you're listening through the set's speakers.



On the other hand, if you're routing digital audio from your HDTV to an external receiver, it's possible that the "processing time" in the receiver is causing an apparent A/V sync problem as the video is being presented "instantly" on the set while the audio takes a bit longer to make its way through to the receiver where it is processed and then sent out to the speakers.


Believe it or not, if this really is the cause of the problem I think you'd have a less observable (if at all) A/V sync/delay by feeding the analog L/R stereo "audio monitor out" signal out of the HDTV to the receiver for analog L/R stereo processing than by feeding optical digital audio to it. I realize you'd lose the potential of Dolby Digital 5.1 sound (although the analog audio output when tuning to a digital OTA channel is the 2-channel PCM stereo, which is perfectly clean and not really analog at all), but quite frankly I'm always seriously distracted by a lip sync problem and I'd rather have conventional stereo than not enjoy the show because I'm totally focused on the lip sync.



Most "reliable" setup (though you may not have an option) for minimal or zero A/V sync problem is to use an external A/V source (e.g. cable/satellite STB) to provide video to the HDTV (HDMI/DVI or component) and simultaneously feed the digital audio to your external receiver via optical/coax. The essentially identical processing time in both HDTV and audio receiver makes everything work as if it were one (assuming of course that there is no A/V sync problem coming from the broadcaster).


----------



## tvh3ad

I've been happily watching a self-calibrated (using DVE) glitch-free XBR960 since December '04. Owing to a recent audio upgrade, I've had to rearrange furniture so that our viewing distance is now about 9', and the TV seems a bit small to me from this new distance.


Here's my question: is this set still far enough ahead of plasma/LCD in terms of absolute PQ that it's worth having professionally calibrated and keeping for a few more years (even at a viewing distance of 9'), or should I start thinking now about replacing it with a 42-46" set?


Thanks!


----------



## Garvey

tvh3ad:


You bring up an excellent point--that PQ and viewing experience depends on the context.


Personally, if I were you and had the money, I'd get a fat plasma. Sure, sure, the 960 is still the PQ reference set, but too small is too small.


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tvh3ad* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've been happily watching a self-calibrated (using DVE) glitch-free XBR960 since December '04. Owing to a recent audio upgrade, I've had to rearrange furniture so that our viewing distance is now about 9', and the TV seems a bit small to me from this new distance.
> 
> 
> Here's my question: is this set still far enough ahead of plasma/LCD in terms of absolute PQ that it's worth having professionally calibrated and keeping for a few more years (even at a viewing distance of 9'), or should I start thinking now about replacing it with a 42-46" set?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



IMHO, at 9' you are not getting the most from your 960. If I were in your shoes I'd put the 960 into a room (bedroom?) where you could view from closer up, and get a larger set for your main viewing. As Garvey has written, a large Plasma would be nice. For me, I'm thinking of getting one of Sony's SXRD sets, probably the 55" version.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Falcon195* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have been going through this thread and I haven't seen this issue addressed and I was wondering if anybody else has noticed this or can give me some idea what is causing this.
> 
> Since day one I have noticed that when watching digital OTA channels on my 960 sometimes the video and audio are slightly out of sync. I have had this 960 since late 2004 and even though the problem is not as noticeable it still happens sometime.
> 
> I was told by the shop that I bought the 960 from that the sync problem was due to the station broadcasting the signal and not my 960. I tend to believe this as like I said sometimes it doesn't happen at all times and at other times and channels it does.
> 
> Can anybody shead some light on this ?
> 
> Also is it advisable to set my calibration on my 960 in standard mode using the Video essentials calibration DVD?
> 
> Or would in be better to make the calibration with the video essentials dvd in pro mode?
> 
> Thanks



DSerber said it well, and I agree with him. It's not the 960--it's the broadcasters.


This is an aggravating problem that will probably be with us for a while. What happens is the video signal is put through various processing devices, each of which can cause a delay of 1/30th. of a second. With multiple processing steps, this can become a large and noticeable delay. There are audio devices that can compensate for the delay and "re-synch" the signal, but they aren't always used. (And I don't know if they're made yet to handle 5.1 audio.)


The other fact is that the TV networks and stations do not pay enough attention to digital TV sound--at least not yet. For one thing, it's a training issue. For another, it's monitoring and switching equipment.


I believe this situation will be with us for another 2 years. Once all transmission is digital, the engineering staffs won't be splitting their time between analog and digital audio signal paths, and will be able to concentrate on digital signals. So this situation should improve dramatically.


Mark


----------



## jwbausch

I have a problem w/ my 960 that I have not been able to solve and I'm seeking solution(s) here before I make a service call (thankfully I have a few more months on my warranty). Over a month ago I added an upverting Sony DVD player to my system together w/ a Monoprice HDMI switcher since I had my Comcast Moto 6200 box connected to the 960 by HDMI through a DVI --> HDMI cable. Everything seemed to be fine, but sometimes when I would switch from the HDMI DVD player back to the Moto box, the HD tv picture would be very bizarre and sort of had something similar to a picture-in-picture look but with just that channel. Changing the channel on the Moto box would bring the picture back to normal. Fast-forward to the other night where my Moto HD picture just disappeared from the screen. If I power off the Moto box and power it back on, the picture comes back most of the time just for a few seconds, then the screen goes black. I thought maybe the HDMI switching box was the issue but directly connecting the Moto box by HDMI to the 960 does not resolve the problem. Plus, directly connecting the upverting DVD player to the HDMI port on the 960 does not result in any picture. The HDMI light on the front of the DVD player does not light up, suggesting something is wrong w/ the connection. I've flipped the switch on my power supply to off for a few seconds and repowered everything, but this has not resolved the problem either. Also, the Moto box is fine using component connections, so at least I was able to watch my Philadelphia Iggles last night. ;-)


Any suggestions on things to try to fix this problem would be appreciated. And if you have had good luck w/ any Sony service company near Philly, I'd appreciate that rec.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Falcon195* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Since day one I have noticed that when watching digital OTA channels on my 960 sometimes the video and audio are slightly out of sync. I have had this 960 since late 2004 and even though the problem is not as noticeable it still happens sometime. I was told by the shop that I bought the 960 from that the sync problem was due to the station broadcasting the signal and not my 960.
> 
> Thanks



Yes, agree with the others it is not a problem with the 960. So often I notice the audio out of sync on UNHD. You might also find this on some DVDs (for example, the DTS soundtrack of the original issue of "Die Another Day").



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Falcon195* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Also is it advisable to set my calibration on my 960 in standard mode using the Video essentials calibration DVD? Or would in be better to make the calibration with the video essentials dvd in pro mode?



I actually experimented with both. Because the 960 retains the individual settings for each of the modes, I was able to switch between the two for comparision. Most in this group use the PRO mode. I also prefer the neutral color temperature for the pure whites. With non-HD material (digital broadcasts and DVDs) I prefer keeping the advanced video setting to emphasize red. You might, therefore, need to adjust your color setting to see if you prefer the MONITOR or DEFAULT setting.


----------



## wbrett

The thing I've been thinking about lately is the fact that alot of the functionality of the twin-view, guide, index etc. is already gone and will only get worse with digital coming on. Is there any chance of an upgrade?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jwbausch* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a problem w/ my 960 that I have not been able to solve and I'm seeking solution(s) here before I make a service call (thankfully I have a few more months on my warranty). Over a month ago I added an upverting Sony DVD player to my system together w/ a Monoprice HDMI switcher since I had my Comcast Moto 6200 box connected to the 960 by HDMI through a DVI --> HDMI cable. Everything seemed to be fine, but sometimes when I would switch from the HDMI DVD player back to the Moto box, the HD tv picture would be very bizarre and sort of had something similar to a picture-in-picture look but with just that channel. Changing the channel on the Moto box would bring the picture back to normal. Fast-forward to the other night where my Moto HD picture just disappeared from the screen. If I power off the Moto box and power it back on, the picture comes back most of the time just for a few seconds, then the screen goes black. I thought maybe the HDMI switching box was the issue but directly connecting the Moto box by HDMI to the 960 does not resolve the problem. Plus, directly connecting the upverting DVD player to the HDMI port on the 960 does not result in any picture. The HDMI light on the front of the DVD player does not light up, suggesting something is wrong w/ the connection. I've flipped the switch on my power supply to off for a few seconds and repowered everything, but this has not resolved the problem either. Also, the Moto box is fine using component connections, so at least I was able to watch my Philadelphia Iggles last night. ;-)
> 
> 
> Any suggestions on things to try to fix this problem would be appreciated. And if you have had good luck w/ any Sony service company near Philly, I'd appreciate that rec.



You have nothing to lose by having a Sony service representative look at your set but I do not think there is anything wrong with the Sony. I believe it might be something inherent in HD cable boxes. I have a Scientific Atlantic HD DVR and once in a while the audio does not come on and I have to turn the 960 off and back on for audio to appear.


I don't own an upconverting DVD player but since the HDMI light is not on do you have it set for upconversion?


----------



## jwbausch




I don't own an upconverting DVD player but since the HDMI light is not on do you have it set for upconversion?[/QUOTE said:


> Yes, it is set properly. And it used to work perfectly via HDMI, and that HDMI light was lit. The DVD manual (which I don't have in front of me right now) I think said that if the light is not on then something is not right w/ the HDCP handshake.
> 
> 
> It just seems too coincidental that both my DVD player and the Moto cable box no longer function using HDMI when they both used to work perfectly. But I can pretty easily take my DVD player to a friend's house to make sure it still works by HDMI.


----------



## tvh3ad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Garvey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> tvh3ad:
> 
> 
> You bring up an excellent point--that PQ and viewing experience depends on the context.
> 
> 
> Personally, if I were you and had the money, I'd get a fat plasma. Sure, sure, the 960 is still the PQ reference set, but too small is too small.



Hmm, well, I took my wife to Tweeter to look at the new stuff and she totally nixed the idea of replacing it -- said that the LCD screens looked too fake/digital to her and the plasmas looked wrong, too (although she didn't use the words "fake" or "digital" for these). Reluctantly, I have to admit that she has a point.


I guess we'll be hanging on to the 960 until it breaks or plasma/LCD/something else surpasses its picture...


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tvh3ad* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hmm, well, I took my wife to Tweeter to look at the new stuff and she totally nixed the idea of replacing it -- said that the LCD screens looked too fake/digital to her and the plasmas looked wrong, too (although she didn't use the words "fake" or "digital" for these). Reluctantly, I have to admit that she has a point. I guess we'll be hanging on to the 960 until it breaks or plasma/LCD/something else surpasses its picture...



As was mentioned in an earlier reply, you might consider the SXRD family of Sony RPTV's as a suitable replacement... depending on your room, budget, and viewing environment.


Properly tweaked (mostly by going from VIVID to PRO and cranking back most of the settings, setting SHARPNESS=MIN, adjusting color/brightness/picture and color temperature using DVE or AVIA, and using HDMI input from your source), and viewed from "relatively" straight-on, I found the SXRD that my sister has (a 50XBR1) to be absolutely stunning!


Its only real problem is a fairly narrow "optimal viewing angle" of 60 degrees, but if you all sit on a sofa opposite the set I think it will be as near-XBR960 as you will see. Honestly, it looks like a CRT, not a fixed-pixel display (other than its perfection) and your wife will absolutely not think of it as an LCD or plasma. But if your viewing environment involves people sprayed all around the room or rear wall then you may have to decide if this issue is a deal-breaker (by trying it out and seeing how it looks) or if all things considered you'd really rather have a larger set from your new 9' viewing distance than the 34XBR960.


Again... once adjusted from "factory VIVID" and viewed in a darkened room from relatviely straight direction it looks like a CRT. The colors are so true and the brightness/black is so pure that you will think you're looking at a much larger version of the XBR960... which is what you're asking for.


The original XBR1 family of SXRD sets has been replaced by a second generation that supports 1080p input as well as having an "intermediate size" 55" version. But they've also introduced a lesser sub-group (cheaper) to go along with the XBR2 better sub-group. I've seen none of these newer sets, so my comments are derived from my original 50XBR1 experience. I'd recommend not going with the cheaper of the newer available sets, but go for the better version in your proper size.


Take the wife back to see an SXRD Sony, sit her down opposite the set, get the remote from the salesman and get into the user menu to see what it shows, and dial things back if you must. If there is lots of ambient light or broad daylight then you won't want to cut back too much (although proper viewing should really be in a dark or darkened area). I think she'll be impressed.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jwbausch* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Fast-forward to the other night where my Moto HD picture just disappeared from the screen. If I power off the Moto box and power it back on, the picture comes back most of the time just for a few seconds, then the screen goes black. I thought maybe the HDMI switching box was the issue but directly connecting the Moto box by HDMI to the 960 does not resolve the problem. Plus, directly connecting the upverting DVD player to the HDMI port on the 960 does not result in any picture. The HDMI light on the front of the DVD player does not light up, suggesting something is wrong w/ the connection. I've flipped the switch on my power supply to off for a few seconds and repowered everything, but this has not resolved the problem either. Also, the Moto box is fine using component connections, so at least I was able to watch my Philadelphia Iggles last night.



Welcome to the world of "first-generation" HDMI interfaces. There are plenty of these types of stories going around.


My sister has an HDMI-capable Sony DVD player and an HDMI-equipped Moto 6412-III DVR, both directly connected via HDMI (not through any switch) to her Sony 50XBR1 set which has two HDMI inputs. The DVD player is off essentially 100% of the time, though it is connected to the XBR1 via HDMI cable. If she powers the DVR on at about the same time as the XBR1 (which takes about 10 seconds to come out of standby state), when the screen finally displays something it is all green! She hears audio (delivered via HDMI cable to the set's speakers) but the screen is green. The solution is to then power the DVR off, and then power it on, and now the picture properly appears on the XBR1 screen.


Apparently, either (1) whatever HDMI handshaking goes on is not completed properly during the power-on of the DVR and the warmup phase of the XBR1 power-on process. Perhaps the DVR is deciding that the device at the other end of the cable should not be "trusted" and it does not deliver video. But this seems odd, given that audio is apparently delivered.


Alternatively, (2) maybe the XBR1 wants to do its HDMI handshaking after it completes its 10 second warmup but by that time the DVR has long since given up trying to handshake (which it started as soon as it powered up, which was instant). So the handshake never occurs, until the DVR is powered off and on again which re-initiates the handshake between the DVR and the now-ready XBR1... leading to happiness and a real picture.



I know, this sounds like numerology. "Give it a kick after opening and closing the door"... usually fixes it. Legends. Invent any sequence of operations that often seems to work and now it's the "solution".


You might try powering all external devices down first when you want to change your A/B setting on the HDMI switch. Then power up just the desired source device and the HDTV. Leave the other source device powered off when not in use, so as not to confuse the HDMI discussion in your multi-device/switch configuration.


Since the problem is typically coming from the the source device who refuses to deliver to an "untrusted" recipient, you might try pulling the power plug on your DVR and let it sit for a minute before plugging it back in. Yes, you'll have to reload your GUIDE but you will also go through power-on cold start including an HDMI process (when you actually power it on) which odds say should now be successful. Certainly this scenario should clear out all confusion if you want to re-try your "direct HDMI connection" experiment from DVR to HDTV without the switch, to confirm that things really do still work that way as they should.


----------



## tvh3ad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As was mentioned in an earlier reply, you might consider the SXRD family of Sony RPTV's as a suitable replacement... depending on your room, budget, and viewing environment.
> 
> 
> 
> The original XBR1 family of SXRD sets has been replaced by a second generation that supports 1080p input as well as having an "intermediate size" 55" version. But they've also introduced a lesser sub-group (cheaper) to go along with the XBR2 better sub-group. I've seen none of these newer sets, so my comments are derived from my original 50XBR1 experience. I'd recommend not going with the cheaper of the newer available sets, but go for the better version in your proper size.



Thanks. I took a look at Sony's site and the only SXRD set I can fit into my space (48" wide) is the non-XBR 50". Still, this looks promising! I hadn't even considered RPTV because I see DLP rainbows, but I'll give it another look.


Edit: I went to CC over lunch and looked at the SXRD sets. Nice picture -- I can see why they get compared to CRT. However, I don't think these sets would work for us: for one thing, our horizontal sprawl is too wide and the off-axis viewing is terrible; for another, the screen is plastic and we have young kids -- it'd be scratched up in a heartbeat.


It may be small, but right now I think we're keeping the 960 until something comparable emerges. Maybe I'll build a shelf extension and bring it out into the room a ways or something...


----------



## Bitwize

Having just gone from an SXRD to my second 960, I have to say it was all worth it. Since I sit about 6-7 feet from my 34" 960, it's screen size is adequate. The PQ is outstanding and is better than the SXRD's in many ways.


Now for the only thing about the 960 that is bothering me...


For example, if I have a bright image on the screen and then the scene changes to a semi-dark or dark scene, I can for a second still see the previous bright image overtop the darker scene. It's almost like a very very fast temporary burn-in effect that disappears within a second. I've also seen this effect in star wars, when a ship is blasting through space, creating a faint motion trail.


The easiest way to reproduce this effect is to go to a video input that has no source, just a black screen. Then bring up the TV's menu. Let it sit there for several seconds, then close out the menu. Right after closing out the menu, I'll see a faint image of the menu interface on the black background for a second or two, as it quickly fades out. So my questions are...


Is this something common for other xbr 960 users? Is this something common to large direct view sets? Am I just hypersensitive to this? Heheh. Seriously, I've never been bothered by this effect with other TVs, most recently, my SXRD. Any input appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## wbrett

I've noticed that effect as well. Looking forward to the replies as I've wondered about it myself.


----------



## Brad Smith

It's pretty much the only major issue with the TV. Myself and others in this thread have pursued replacements units, and the ghosting/trailing issue is prevalent across the entire model line (though some slightly worse than others).


----------



## tvh3ad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Smith* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It's pretty much the only major issue with the TV. Myself and others in this thread have pursued replacements units, and the ghosting/trailing issue is prevalent across the entire model line (though some slightly worse than others).



Did the replacement units work out?


----------



## Brad Smith




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tvh3ad* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Did the replacement units work out?



No. It's just the nature of the television. Even with the issue, it still is far better than any HDTV I have ever seen.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tvh3ad* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I guess we'll be hanging on to the 960 until..... plasma/LCD/something else surpasses its picture...



well......, that might be quite a while.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Brad Smith* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It's pretty much the only major issue with the TV. Myself and others in this thread have pursued replacements units, and the ghosting/trailing issue is prevalent across the entire model line (though some slightly worse than others).



If this is an issue with all the sets, then mine must be so slight that I don't even notice it. Now, I just hope I don't actually start looking for it.


----------



## Q of BanditZ

Personally, I've never had the ghosting issue on my 34XBR960.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=561596 


^^ I'm sure you all know my take on this TV and getting it ISF calibrated by now.


I know a lot of people who have been leaving CRT land for nice sets like the SXRD's. I must say: This is attention getting to see someone doing the reverse!


Blitzwise asked me a few questions via PM that I'm going to answer here so everyone can benefit:



> Quote:
> Btw, do you have a PS3? If so, does it display 720p properly?



Yes. In the Ps3 video settings dashboard, check on everything except 1080p.



> Quote:
> Or does it downscale to 480p when fedding 720p?



You won't have that problem on this TV. Anyone who has a TV that ACCEPTS and displays 720p material has no worries. Only older HDTVs that have NO 720p ability whatsoever are having issues.



> Quote:
> I'm thinking about getting a PS3 soon as I have a "friend" who can help out in this way.



I love my PS3.







You'll be thrilled.


----------



## Bitwize

Thanks Q of Banditz for the timely reply! It's good to hear that the PS3 has no issues with the XBR960. As for the ghost-like issue with the 960, I've had my set calibrated completely by Chad B and the issue still exists. It sounds like a good number of people are noticing it as well. The issue is something I can live with and really doesn't bother me unless I try to notice it, especially when I consider the difficulty in tracking down a used 960 these days.


I would still appreciate any more input by others who have noticed this "problem." Who knows, maybe some people have retinas that are more sensitive to the ghosting issue...heheh.


----------



## tvh3ad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bitwize* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would still appreciate any more input by others who have noticed this "problem." Who knows, maybe some people have retinas that are more sensitive to the ghosting issue...heheh.



I've definitely seen the ghosting on my set, most recently in fact in the aforementioned Star Wars / Darth Vader moments, though I think I've also seen it in movies where there are things like moving torches in caves, etc. I could be wrong, but I think the speed of motion is the key: for the ghosting to occur, the contrasting object has to be moving fairly slowly but not *too* slowly. Considering Star Wars again: spaceships moving around, the Death Star exploding, etc., don't cause this, while Darth Vader turning/moving his head against a white background does (Return of the Jedi, near the beginning, Vader telling some nameless guy that the emperor's coming, and I only remember this because I saw it last night...so stop laughing.) It's not the source material, either: I wasn't watching the DVD, I was watching a recorded HD cable feed.


I assumed that this is owed to the nature of CRT / phosphor decay behavior -- my parents' 1980s Panasonic 26" console has always done exactly the same thing, as has every other CRT I've ever owned. But, if there really are sets out there that don't ever do this, maybe that's wrong.


----------



## Bitwize

Yeah, I hope it's just something inherent to all tube sets in varying degrees. Since I went from tube to SXRD back to tube, I think I'm more sensitive to it than most may be. Regardless, I'm going to have a Sony tech come out since it's still under warranty for another year. As long as it's a normal occurence I'll be content with it.


By the way, I was just watching the intro to Episode III, and the ships definitely leave a short, faint motion trail. Also, the credits at the end of Taladegga Nights revealed the same short, faint motion trail.


----------



## tvh3ad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bitwize* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> By the way, I was just watching the intro to Episode III, and the ships definitely leave a short, faint motion trail. Also, the credits at the end of Taladegga Nights revealed the same short, faint motion trail.



Is my theory correct -- i.e., in both cases you describe, is the motion speed in that in-between category? Or were the ships you mentioned full-throttle?


----------



## Bitwize

yeah, they are in that mid-speed category. i just found another way to see a prominent motion trail. i have my HTPC hooked up via the HDMI input and I have all mouse trail effects turned off, BUT I can still see a very noticeable trail as I move the mouse around on a black background, regardless of speed.


man, this is a bit perplexing. i just wish it was a normal occurence so i could put it to rest and sleep tonight...heheh.


FYI, my electronics buddy who worked on CRTs years ago said that what we are describing is typical of tubes on their way out. I made up my mind not to believe this....lol.


----------



## mr2828

My set also has the trailing issue. I'm convinced they all likely have it but some people's eyes or brains just don't notice it.


Other places to see it: viper space scenes in battlestar galactica, fast scrolling vertical credits at the end of movies like on TNT-HD. I saw this other day while watching the end credits of one of the Tomb Raider movies scroll by. When the credit scrolling is quick enough you can easily see the trails.


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bitwize* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i just wish it was a normal occurence so i could put it to rest and sleep tonight...heheh.



Ah the old "trailing" issue. Is it normal? Well my friend, wars have been fought over less. Lol.


Let me preface the following by saying that there are some owners that feel this is not normal and categorcally state that this "issue" does not occur on their sets. Sadly, attempts to discuss the issue often degrade into accustions that people bought their set from the wrong store, used the wrong calibrator, are stupid for posting about the issue instead of getting service, etc etc.


If you you use the "Search this thread" feature above, look up (trailing, ghosting, streaking and phosphor) and you will get a good overview of different opinions from 960 owners. In one extreme case, you will read about one owner going through several repair/replace cycles only to see precisely the same "issue" across several tubes.


Some other links to provide background on the issue (some relate to CRT PC monitors):

Mention of streaking as a quantifiable issue in CRT monitors: http://reviews.cnet.com/Labs/4520-6603_7-5021089-1.html 


Mention of the existance of "image lag" on some CRTs monitors and claim that lag may be related to phosphors: http://www.displaymate.com/flicker.html 


Mention of the issue in the 800 (910's predecessor): http://archive.avsforum.com/avs-vb/s...hreadid=318280 


Another attempt to discuss the issue with the 910 (960's predecessor) : http://archive.avsforum.com/avs-vb/s...hreadid=323732 


Interesting post on the matter: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post7218267 


Subsection on the 910's Phosphor Trails/Persistence/Lag: http://archive.avsforum.com/avs-vb/s...hreadid=368718 


Hope this helps you form an opinion and course of action.


----------



## tvh3ad

Re the trailing and tube life: my set has done this since day 1 and as far as I can tell looks exactly the same coming up on two years, so I would say it's NOT a tube on the way out. Rest easy on that front, anyway.


Watching Tristan and Isolde on MaxHD now...looks as close to perfect as can be!


----------



## RWetmore

The phosphor trails are a trade off for reduced flicker. The SFP sets have phosphors with slower decay's than most sets...the slower decay serves to help minimize flicker. That is about all there is to it. How high your brightness setting is can affect to what degree the trails are visible. The darker or truer you have your blacks set, the more you will see trails in dark scenes. YOu don't see them in lighted scenes because the instantaneous rise time of the phosphors immediately overwhelms any decay time.


----------



## Bitwize

*njt:* Thanks for the helpful information and links! Definitely rests my mind a bit.

*tvh3ad:* I've decided to wait another 6 months or so and see where things are then. I have another 9 months on the warranty. Thx for the reply.

*RWetmore:* Yeah, I know what you mean. I have my 960 ISF'd so the blacks are black and the light output is set just right. I only notice the trailing in dark scenes, but now and then a bright closeup of someone's face will be slightly visible right after a scene change. Looks like a transparent layer overtop the new scene. But it's very brief.


Strange thing is, the trailing/ghosting etc. is not consistent. For example, I can produce this effect by bringing up the menu on a black screen, and then after closing out of the menu, i can see a faint image of the menu for a brief second. Then if i bring up the menu again, and close it out, there is no faint image. So not sure how to consistently reproduce it. Closing credits in a movie seems to be the easiest way to reproduce the trailing effect.


----------



## mr2828

njt thanks for the links collection. An important take-away is that this effect will be a lot more noticeable in a very dim room, and I do tend to watch my set at night in a fairly dim room with just one lamp going, so perhaps that's why I notice it then while others may not if they are watching in brightly lit rooms.


----------



## RobInBigKC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Blitzwise asked me a few questions via PM that I'm going to answer here so everyone can benefit:
> 
> 
> Yes. In the Ps3 video settings dashboard, check on everything except 1080p.
> 
> 
> You won't have that problem on this TV. Anyone who has a TV that ACCEPTS and displays 720p material has no worries. Only older HDTVs that have NO 720p ability whatsoever are having issues.
> 
> 
> I love my PS3.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll be thrilled.



Q of BanditZ (or anyone with a PS3 hooked up to their 34XBR960),


Santa Claus is bringing my kids a PS3 for Christmas and I have some questions:


Do you have your PS3 linked to your TV via a HDMI cable?


The Sony website gives the following information, "Video output in HD requires cables and an HD-compatible display, both sold separately. Copy-protected Blu-ray video discs can only output at 1080p using an HDMI cable connected to a device that is compatible with the HDCP standard. HDMI cable not included. Additional equipment may be required to use the HDMI connector."


Am I correct in thinking that the 34XBR960 will not show Blu-Ray discs played on the PS3 if you use an HDMI cable? I know that the 34XBR960 won't show 1080P but will it show Blu-Ray discs in 720P or 1080I via HDMI? Will it show them at all? Will it show them with component video cables but not with an HDMI cable?


Any insight you can provide from your hookup or any "testing" you have done be appreciated.


Thanks for your help. -- Rob


----------



## Yung

Just ordered a Philps DVP-5960 upconverting DVD player and hope to pair it with my XBR960. I've never tried the HDMI jack on my XBR as I didn't have anything to test it with so I hope it works. Anyone here have experience with with this combo?


----------



## DJF(NJ)




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Yung* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just ordered a Philps DVP-5960 upconverting DVD player and hope to pair it with my XBR960. I've never tried the HDMI jack on my XBR as I didn't have anything to test it with so I hope it works. Anyone here have experience with with this combo?



Yes, I had a Denon 1910 upconverting DVD player 2 years ago connected through the HDMI cable. Picture was always dark and I would always get video noise when trying to make it brighter. Ran it through the component cables w/480i and the detail and brightness was much better. The only nice thing I noticed the 1080i upconvert did was get rid of the jaggies.


There has been a few posts in this thread, as well as another dedicated thread, which talks about the HDMI input and how many people have gotten better picture quality out of the component inputs.


FWIW, mine's a 7/04 build date from Mexico.


----------



## Bitwize

FYI, my great friend and ISF tech has confirmed that component video looks better on the 960 than video over HDMI. So I have my HD-A1 hd-dvd player hooked up via component. Only downside is no upconverting for standard DVDs, but they look fantastic regardless. Remember on a 34" screen standard DVDs are going to look much more watchable than on a 60" screen.


----------



## PeterTHX




> Quote:
> Am I correct in thinking that the 34XBR960 will not show Blu-Ray discs played on the PS3 if you use an HDMI cable? I know that the 34XBR960 won't show 1080P but will it show Blu-Ray discs in 720P or 1080I via HDMI? Will it show them at all? Will it show them with component video cables but not with an HDMI cable?



I have the PS3 and the XBR960, everything is pretty much 1080i thru the HDMI port.


All the disclaimer means that any 1080p playback of BD material requires HDMI. It will support gameplay at 1080p thru component.


----------



## PhilipO38

Hi guys i need your advise:


I had my XBR960 since last November(and we all know how great this set is) however for the first time today i picked up an HDMI cable to hook up HD Cable(and my PS3), and while doing so for the cable, i noticed the picture was alot more brighter and the colors stronger.


Now i adjusted these to more of the range that would be normal, however, can you guys say what settings use use for HDMI inputs(be it HD broadcasts or your PS3) and what you use for component input(say Xbox360).


You see i have three inputs going into this tv, the HD cable(at 1080i), and the Xbox360 vis component and now the PS3 via HDMI.(for now, i'll switch the HDMI cable each time i use the Ps3 from cable to that PS3 and back again.)


Which settings do you use for HD component input be it Xbox 360 or HD cable?



And which settings do you use for HDMI inputs like your HD broadcasts or PS3 input?


Thanks so much in advance,


Philip O


----------



## ckhirnigs113

I just want to share my joy. I finally found a 34xbr960 at one of the Sony outlet stores. I was able to get it shipped with FreightQuotes for a pretty good deal. I am so excited to have found one at last. I was very close to buying the 970 at BB, but I called Sony one more time and got lucky at last. I was able to get a 5-year-in-home warranty as well, so I feel pretty safe with my purchase. Anyway, I just had to share the good news. -CK


----------



## PhilipO38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ckhirnigs113* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just want to share my joy. I finally found a 34xbr960 at one of the Sony outlet stores. I was able to get it shipped with FreightQuotes for a pretty good deal. I am so excited to have found one at last. I was very close to buying the 970 at BB, but I called Sony one more time and got lucky at last. I was able to get a 5-year-in-home warranty as well, so I feel pretty safe with my purchase. Anyway, I just had to share the good news. -CK



Congrats, on what i(and many) still believe is the best HDTV under 40", that's not a 1080p set.


It's PQ is unmatched(in the size range) and you won't need to worry about LCD/Plasma or other types of TV, concerns.(ie..respons time, rainbow effects, burn in, ect).


Where did you buy the 5yr in home warranty?


Because i would love to grab one of these, even though i have had the unit since Nov. 05'.


Anyway..enjoy this amazing HDTV and please use it's HDMI input, because it's a good sized visual upgrade from it's component inputs.


----------



## PhilipO38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bitwize* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> FYI, my great friend and ISF tech has confirmed that component video looks better on the 960 than video over HDMI. So I have my HD-A1 hd-dvd player hooked up via component. Only downside is no upconverting for standard DVDs, but they look fantastic regardless. Remember on a 34" screen standard DVDs are going to look much more watchable than on a 60" screen.



Now i'm really confused.


Yesterday i hooked up my HD cable(1080i) over a HDMI cable and it's clearly more sharper and has more color detail.


And that's from the setting i have it at.


Guys, please what's the deal here, because why is my HD cable looking better through the HDMI then component, yet some people swear that these are equal or the comonent has better PQ?


Which looks better? And should i have my tv calibrated for the component to look as good as the HDMI?


Because right now, watching any HD broadcast, HDMI easily looks supperior.


TIA


----------



## jpl3447

Congrats ckhirnigs113! You did well










PhilipO38: The best I can think of is that your HD box treats it's HDMI output differently than the component output, ie. different processing algorithms are being used. So maybe the HDMI is the favored connection. With some source devices there is no difference between component and HDMI. On my DVD player, tests showed that the HDMI had less errors than the component output so naturally I use the HDMI. I haven't bothered doing a comparision, largely because others before me already found out what was optimal.


Edit: Also, the settings on your TV in the Service Menu are probably different for the HDMI input than the component input. So that may play a factor too. It may just so happen that those settings result in a better picture.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PhilipO38* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Now i'm really confused.
> 
> 
> Yesterday i hooked up my HD cable(1080i) over a HDMI cable and it's clearly more sharper and has more color detail.
> 
> 
> And that's from the setting i have it at.
> 
> 
> Guys, please what's the deal here, because why is my HD cable looking better through the HDMI then component, yet some people swear that these are equal or the comonent has better PQ?
> 
> 
> Which looks better? And should i have my tv calibrated for the component to look as good as the HDMI?
> 
> 
> Because right now, watching any HD broadcast, HDMI easily looks supperior.
> 
> 
> TIA



You have to calibrate separately for component, especially the color offset adjustments (CROF and CBOF) but most everthing else too. Component is definately clearer, but you have to buy high quality, top of the line shielded cables to block out any interference or ringing, to see the full benefit. I recommend a great set from Blue Jeans Cable.


I have completely switched to component on my set, and won't go back to HDMI.


----------



## ckhirnigs113

PhilipO38: I was able to get the 5-year warranty directly from the Sony Outlet store where I bought the set.


When my tv comes in next week I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions about the set-up. This will be my first HD set, so that alone is exciting to me. The fact that I am getting what many consider the reference standard for HD is just icing on the cake! Thanks again for all the info you have all shared on this forum. I would have probably been suckered into one of the cheap lcd's otherwise.


----------



## liquidneba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ah the old "trailing" issue. Is it normal? Well my friend, wars have been fought over less. Lol.
> 
> 
> Let me preface the following by saying that there are some owners that feel this is not normal and categorcally state that this "issue" does not occur on their sets. Sadly, attempts to discuss the issue often degrade into accustions that people bought their set from the wrong store, used the wrong calibrator, are stupid for posting about the issue instead of getting service, etc etc.
> 
> 
> If you you use the "Search this thread" feature above, look up (trailing, ghosting, streaking and phosphor) and you will get a good overview of different opinions from 960 owners. In one extreme case, you will read about one owner going through several repair/replace cycles only to see precisely the same "issue" across several tubes.
> 
> 
> Some other links to provide background on the issue (some relate to CRT PC monitors):
> 
> Mention of streaking as a quantifiable issue in CRT monitors: http://reviews.cnet.com/Labs/4520-6603_7-5021089-1.html
> 
> 
> Mention of the existance of "image lag" on some CRTs monitors and claim that lag may be related to phosphors: http://www.displaymate.com/flicker.html
> 
> 
> Mention of the issue in the 800 (910's predecessor): http://archive.avsforum.com/avs-vb/s...hreadid=318280
> 
> 
> Another attempt to discuss the issue with the 910 (960's predecessor) : http://archive.avsforum.com/avs-vb/s...hreadid=323732
> 
> 
> Interesting post on the matter: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post7218267
> 
> 
> Subsection on the 910's Phosphor Trails/Persistence/Lag: http://archive.avsforum.com/avs-vb/s...hreadid=368718
> 
> 
> Hope this helps you form an opinion and course of action.




NJT is describing me. I'm on my third Sony XBR960. People who say they can't see it are living in ignorant bliss. I wish I could too. At this point, I just ignore it. I love the TV nonetheless. It doesn't improve with time, the best remedy is to ignore, otherwise it will drive you crazy.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post6470733


----------



## RobInBigKC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PeterTHX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the PS3 and the XBR960, everything is pretty much 1080i thru the HDMI port.
> 
> 
> All the disclaimer means that any 1080p playback of BD material requires HDMI. It will support gameplay at 1080p thru component.



Thanks for the information PeterTHX.


-- Rob


----------



## PeterTHX

Your welcome Rob


----------



## Bitwize

I just picked up the Sony BDP-S1, so now I'm in both HD camps...heh. Both my HD-A1 and BDP-S1 are hooked up via component inputs. After a full ISF calibration, component looks slightly better than HDMI.


I have to say, despite the bad I've heard, the BDP-S1 produces an exceptional image. Having compared it to the HD-A1, I'd say they are fairly equal when it comes to PQ.


I almost got a PS3 for the main purpose of using it as a Blu-ray player, but I decided a standalone would suit me better. A Best Buy 12% off coupon assisted me in snagging the BDP-S1 at a "good" price.


----------



## BRY1080P

I know this is probably hard to do, but is their anyone on this thread that knows where to get a hand on a 34XBR960???


----------



## ckhirnigs113

My advice is to call the Sony Outlet stores on a regular basis because they are still getting them in every once and a while. I just bought one from them last Friday at an incredible price. It may take a while, but I'm sure it's worth the effort. -CK


----------



## jpl3447

Go to eBay, setup or login to your account, put the terms KD-34XBR960 and KD34XBR960 on your favorites list, and have email notification enabled for when one comes up for sale. Ninety percent of the time the sales are for local pickup only so you want to wait and see if one pops up within driving distance.


That is the best way so far to get one. There is one up for bidding in Las Vegas right now










Other than that go to your local electronics boutiques and go to a Best Buy or Circuit City and ask them to do a search in your area for one. About two months ago I managed to find one new in the box at Best Buy and had them transfer it to my store in Tulsa, OK from Brownsville, TX. Good luck!


Edit: What he said too.


----------



## InYourEyes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BRY1080P* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I know this is probably hard to do, but is their anyone on this thread that knows where to get a hand on a 34XBR960???



You will have a much higher chance finding a Sony KD-34XBR960 than a Toshiba 34HFX84. I still see several XBR960s in several outlet retailers. Some do show up on eBay and Craiglist often.


----------



## PhilipO38

Guys i'm looking for a smaller HDTV for my bedroom, but the XBR960 has spoiled me. I have a 01' model of a Samsung 27" HDTV, but it comes noware near this Sony and since i also need to shrink the picture for widescreen, it's PQ gets even worse.


What is the best PQ HDTV set available in the size range of 23" to 30", that would come closest to the PQ of my XBR960?


I really need a good quality second HDTV, because i'll be doing half my gaming(360 & PS3) on that one as well as the XBR960.


TIA


----------



## PhilipO38

I was looking at the HDTV's from BB and CC websites and nothing under 34" comes close, spec wise to the XBR960.


Now i can understand this, however i'm not sure to go with a 30" CRT(BB's Insignia is only $550) which is rated 800*1080(approx.) or an LCD(Sony Bravia line) which are 1366*768.


I'm sure some PS3 games i'll grab will be using 1080p, of which the LCD would have to down convert to 720, while the 30" CRT's would be missing out on more lines of horizontal resolution.


I need to choose from 800*1080 or 1366*768, and take into account the LCD's response times and black level quality.


I just wish getting a second(smaller) HDTV was as simple as grabbing the XBR960, of which was the reference HDTV under 40"


btw: I found this one 1080p LCD for $1500, and i'm wondering how it stacks up against the XBR960, PQ wise. It says it delivers 'true' 1080p, which would be one advantage over the XBR960, but i'm wondering how it compares in other aspects.


Here's the link:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1140394400806


----------



## Snooptonydog

My son scratched the living daylights out of my xbr and I noticed that it looks like just glass and not the special optical screen. How do I replace the outer glass that has been absolutely destroyed?


I tried to see if could easily take it off but I can't. Seems entire set is bolted and to take glass plate off it would require some expertise.


----------



## PeterTHX

Westinghouse is absolute crap Philip. Stay away!!! Going from the 960 to that would be like going from filet mignon to some roadkill.


----------



## jpl3447




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Snooptonydog* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My son scratched the living daylights out of my xbr and I noticed that it looks like just glass and not the special optical screen. How do I replace the outer glass that has been absolutely destroyed?
> 
> 
> I tried to see if could easily take it off but I can't. Seems entire set is bolted and to take glass plate off it would require some expertise.




I ran into a scratched display model 960 a few months ago and thought that there was a glass plate in the front too. But a little checking turned out that there is no protective glass... it is the tube itself!


If you don't mind telling, how did he scratch the glass up? I think someone at the Best Buy must have accidently careened a dolly into the display.


----------



## tvh3ad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PhilipO38* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What is the best PQ HDTV set available in the size range of 23" to 30", that would come closest to the PQ of my XBR960?



You don't have much choice: plasmas and RP sets don't come that small, so the only games in town are CRT (not many HD sets left) and LCD. I'd try cross-posting in the LCD forum if I were you.


----------



## wbrett

Since the tube/glass/screen has come up... what should I clean the glass with? Is it okay to use Windex?


----------



## bschmidt25

I was also looking at the Best Buy model at one point for the same thing you were - just a small HDTV for my bedroom, but read nothing but horrible reviews about it (very poor PQ, inability to use universal remotes with it). I read that it is actually built by Sylvania.


Your best bet might be to look around for an older Sony 30" CRT like the KV-30HS420 - there are tons of them out there. I've also seen a few KD-30XS955s, which would be the best option in my opinion. It physically looks the same as the XBR960, has a built in HD tuner, and I believe it has the SFP tube as well. Can anyone verify?


----------



## ckhirnigs113

The KD-30XS955 definately has the Super Fine Pitch display. I was looking at this set but decided I wanted the larger 34" model.


----------



## dawgfan06

Christmas came early for me today. I found a 960 on craigs list with the matching stand and three years remaining on a in home warranty. I picked the set up today and it is in VERY good condition. I feel so lucky.

I have a question. When we were loading it, I broke the plastic lock that holds the strap on the stand in the rear. Does anyone know where I might find a replacement?

Thanks!!


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wbrett* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since the tube/glass/screen has come up... what should I clean the glass with? Is it okay to use Windex?



NO!


Use water with the smallest amount of hand soap. No glass cleaners or strong chemicals. And put the solution on the cloth first, not the tv.


----------



## wbrett

Thanks justsc. Just out of curiosity.... wondering why... is there some sort of anti-glare layer or somesuch?


----------



## justsc




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wbrett* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks justsc. Just out of curiosity.... wondering why... is there some sort of anti-glare layer or somesuch?



Yes - to the best of my knowledge.


Those that have had the sad experience of rubbing off part of the layer have played he!! trying to rub the rest off to get it consistent.


Just handle with care. You can also use those anit-static gloves with the soft fabric palms that just take the dust off. Those can be used between washings.


Enjoy!


----------



## PhilipO38

I see this one listed(craigslist):


KV-30HS420


I believe this has the SFP tube, correct?


I'm guess this will give me the same quality as the XBR960, correct?


The guy selling it is asking around $450.


(I don't have time to look up through Sony's site, because i'm watching my 3 yr old son now).


TIA


----------



## ckhirnigs113

The HS420 doesn't have the Super Fine Pitch display. The models ending with xs955 have the fine pitch along with the xbr960.


----------



## foxfan

I managed to get Sony's factory center in St-Laurent, QC to accept my TV before the warranty went out to fix the cold tuner problem. They changed a Capacitor (ceramic 1000000P) and Coil choke 33UH.


After I took it home and set it up, I was scared to death when I turned it on and saw the info banner going off the screen (I used to see the full rectangles). I thought they had ruined my set with magnets or something and that the top was horribly overscanned. However, I put the overscan pattern from my DVE DVD on and it looked OK. I later went in the service menu to temporarily set the TV at negative overscan to see everything, and noticed that the info bar is now made that way. I don't remember seeing an option anywhere to make it smaller.


Is the different info bar size part of a firmware upgrade that they would have downloaded by the Sony tech?


----------



## datamage

Quick question guys..


For using the PS2 on the XBR960, which DRC mode would provide the best IQ? And aside from the DRC mode, what would be nice Reality/Clarity settings? Thanks for the info, I've read through this thread, and have searched for DRC-related posts, but I'm still unsure.


----------



## fred33

Has anyone noticed a faint blue-green glow at the bottom of the screen on their xbr960?

I see it when the screen goes dark in between shows on every channel


P


----------



## proroc

Hello,


I wanted to ask you guys a question about this tv. When I hook up my coax from the wall and scan for digital channels they come in red and blue over black like wearing 3d glasses. No hd channels come in at all not even locals. Anyone else have this problem? Do you think my cable co. is encrypting most QAM channels?


Thanks!


----------



## foxfan

Another problem after having my tuner problem fixed and firmware updated... my HDMI connection no longer works!


Anyone know what the problem could be?


----------



## proroc

How do you get your firmware updated? Does it fix anything major?


Thanks!


----------



## foxfan

I had Sony's repair center fix the common problem with the tuner. They took the opportunity to update the firmware at the same time. As far as I know, the only thing it changed is the size of the info-bar. I think it was intended to correct a problem with Cablecards, but I have never had the chance to use that option.


----------



## Istari1

Anyone out there got a center channel speaker resting ontop of their XBR960? I am upgrading my HT from a plain stereo system to at least a 3.1 and the center channel I got is a beast. At 46lbs I really dont know if it can sit ontop of the TV safely. I know this set is a beast itself, but 46 lbs is pretty heavy. Anyone have any experience with this, or done it themselves? Why doesnt Sony list the TVs weight bearing capacity


----------



## jpl3447

It should be able to handle the weight. For a while I had a 35 pound center channel atop mine. The speaker had a rod in the rear that adjusted down to rest on the back of the TV thus stabilizing it.


I had to move it up about a foot away from the TV because during dynamic peaks in the program material these bands would start radiating downward on the screen. Yes, the speaker was magnetically shielded (an Infinity c360). But I guess it doesn't mean 100% shielding.


Each speaker is different I guess so if banding occurs then a way needs to be figured out to put a little distance between the TV and the speaker.


----------



## LDBecker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Istari1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone out there got a center channel speaker resting ontop of their XBR960? I am upgrading my HT from a plain stereo system to at least a 3.1 and the center channel I got is a beast. At 46lbs I really dont know if it can sit ontop of the TV safely. I know this set is a beast itself, but 46 lbs is pretty heavy. Anyone have any experience with this, or done it themselves? Why doesnt Sony list the TVs weight bearing capacity



I bought a small shelf that's made for this. It has two leveling feet and some adhesive velcro pads that keep it from sliding. It works well for my Energy Veritas 2.0C, which is over 40 lbs. I have no distortion issues with this speaker/tv combo, but the same speaker on my older Sony 32" SBR non-HD tv had some issues. I had to build a 4" riser to get it high enough above the TV tube. With the 960, it rests right on the tv with no problems. Different speakers may have other issues.

I bought the shelf at Rockler Woodworking, but I recently saw the same thing at Best Buy - under $20 as I recall...


Larry Becker


----------



## foxfan

Well, my HDMI is now fixed. Turns out some wires in the TV were disconnected while they were putting things back together. Hope it stays fine.


After having it for two years, I'm thinking of maybe getting convergence fixed and have the set calibrated...


----------



## tvh3ad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *foxfan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> After having it for two years, I'm thinking of maybe getting convergence fixed and have the set calibrated...



I've also had mine for 2 years. I just had it calibrated a couple of weeks ago and it made a huge difference -- wish I'd done it long ago...


----------



## foxfan

Now that my HDMI connection is working again, I plugged in a new Sony DVD player and noticed that there is a lot less overscan with that at 1080i than the former player I had plugged in 480p component. This is great, because previously, if I would reduce overscan to make the DVD look OK, my regular TV would be underscanned. Now I can adjust it so that it is appropriate to both.


----------



## ckhirnigs113

I just got my 960 today, and right out of the box it has a large discoloration all along the left side of the screen. This is regardless of the source. I have it plugged directly into the wall, and I have moved the speakers away from the screen (even though they are shielded). I really have no idea what the problem is.


Does anyone know what this could be? I read somewhere in this mega-thread about the "landing" settings within the service menu. Should I take the plunge into the service menu or just get a Sony tech to come check it out? Thanks, CK


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ckhirnigs113* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just got my 960 today, and right out of the box it has a large discoloration all along the left side of the screen. This is regardless of the source. I have it plugged directly into the wall, and I have moved the speakers away from the screen (even though they are shielded). I really have no idea what the problem is.
> 
> 
> Does anyone know what this could be? I read somewhere in this mega-thread about the "landing" settings within the service menu. Should I take the plunge into the service menu or just get a Sony tech to come check it out? Thanks, CK



Photos would be a big help.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ckhirnigs113* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just got my 960 today, and right out of the box it has a large discoloration all along the left side of the screen. This is regardless of the source. I have it plugged directly into the wall, and I have moved the speakers away from the screen (even though they are shielded). I really have no idea what the problem is.
> 
> 
> Does anyone know what this could be? I read somewhere in this mega-thread about the "landing" settings within the service menu. Should I take the plunge into the service menu or just get a Sony tech to come check it out? Thanks, CK



That could be caused by an unshielded speaker. If so, try moving the speaker farther away from the set.


Another possibility is residual magnetism. The set has a built-in degausser. So turning the set on a few times may help. Some people have reported the degausser seems to work better if you unplug the set for a few minutes and then plug it back in and turn it on.


I had this problem, too--and I've seen it with other TV's, too. I cured mine by using an old hand-held cassette tape bulk eraser. (With the set operating, turn on the eraser, slowly bring it to the set, and slowly pull it away before turning it off.) This was a very effective cure, and did not cause any damage. Kind of scary, though, because the magnetism causes a "rainbow" effect and if you do it incorrectly will make your problem worse.


Mark


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ckhirnigs113* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone know what this could be? I read somewhere in this mega-thread about the "landing" settings within the service menu. Should I take the plunge into the service menu or just get a Sony tech to come check it out? Thanks, CK



Don't fool around with anything yet. If moving your speakers away doesn't cure the problem just call Sony and have them schedule a warranty visit by a factory technician (assuming the set is under total warranty, which it certainly is if it was new and within 30 days of purchase).


If something is really wrong the Sony tech should be able to fix it at no cost to you no matter how severe the cause or solution. I think that's the best course of action for these "out of the box" issues. The technician can also perhaps deal with some other adjustments that might be needed, like convergence and geometry problems in selected areas of the picture that might require magnets to resolve (or service menu adjustments for some other simpler problems).


Save your service menu adventures for a bit later when your set is "stabilized" and at least operating at an "acceptable minimum level" (using user menu adjustments).


----------



## Nitru

I just got my hands on a 960, but without the original remote. I can't seem to tune in to any cable channels. Only the "VHF/UHF" coax input seems to work, but the "cable" coax input doesn't. When I run the auto-tuner, it labels my source as Antenna instead of cable, and only finds basic channels. I know there's an "ANT" button to switch between tuners, is this what I need? How can I do this without the remote?


----------



## ckhirnigs113

Thanks for all the advice. I know the problem is not related to the speakers because it was present with the speakers nowhere near it. There is already photos of my exact same problem earlier in this thread. The only difference is that my discoloration goes all along the left side of the screen. The link to it is: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...es#post7875184 


I got this set refurbished from Sony, so I assumed it would be working correctly out of the box, but of course that is not the case. I guess I will just call Sony and schedule a service appointment. Does the tech have to use magnets to fix this problem? I just don't want him replacing stuff that will have no effect on my problem.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ckhirnigs113* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the advice. I know the problem is not related to the speakers because it was present with the speakers nowhere near it.



As many of us have observed, that symptom sure does come from speakers mostly.


On the other hand, I had a similar issue with a 35" Mitsubishi that my sister had, and she had placed the two small satellite speakers from a Bose 321 system about three feet from the upper corners of the set. Somehow, there was that "colored corner" on the upper left of the screen (but not on the right) that normally seems magnetically caused. But in this case it only happened on one side of the set despite the fact that the two speakers where equidistant. And the coloration never went away even after the set de-gaussed itself and warmed up for quite a while.


And, as with your story, even when I disconnected the speakers (and moved away the sub-woofer which was under the set), that colored corner seemed permanent. No explanation, and no solution... although it first started when we installed the Bose system. Hmmm...




> Quote:
> There is already photos of my exact same problem earlier in this thread.



That set has an overscan issue as well. Note the "ABC HD" bug in the lower right corner. That is NOT the way it should look.




> Quote:
> I got this set refurbished from Sony, so I assumed it would be working correctly out of the box, but of course that is not the case. I guess I will just call Sony and schedule a service appointment.



That's your best bet.


Do you have the problem even if you remove the external speakers entirely, and revert to the built-in speakers in the set? I wonder if it's a magnet problem in the TV's speakers?


That sure does look like speaker magnetic field work.




> Quote:
> Does the tech have to use magnets to fix this problem? I just don't want him replacing stuff that will have no effect on my problem.



The magnets you speak of (permalloy) are not pertinent to this issue. They are used to correct vertical convergence problems (i.e. horizontal lines with colored glows above and below) in the picture and are fastened to the back of the picture tube at appropriate locations (by tape).


Your problem could perhaps be a mis-shielded internal speaker.


----------



## R8ders2K




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nitru* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just got my hands on a 960, but without the original remote. I can't seem to tune in to any cable channels. Only the "VHF/UHF" coax input seems to work, but the "cable" coax input doesn't. When I run the auto-tuner, it labels my source as Antenna instead of cable, and only finds basic channels. I know there's an "ANT" button to switch between tuners, is this what I need? How can I do this without the remote?



Go to eBay, there's an auction for a new Sony RM-Y201 remote with a "Buy It Now" for $35.


----------



## Nitru

^ - I managed to do it without the remote by using the channel fix function and going to one of the cable channels, then running the auto tuner. I will probably still get the remote though, thanks.


Now I have to deal with a blue retrace line problem. The black screens have a blueish tint and show blue retrace lines. I searched and it seems theres a knob you can turn it down with but it's risky? Where is it and can I turn it down just a bit to make the black look less blue and get rid of the retrace lines? Any info would be appreciated.


----------



## JimmyWang214

I read something similar wayyyy earlier in this thread, but I currently have a slight reddish discoloration at the upper right corner of my xbr960. My tv is out of warranty (2 years right?) is there anything I can do or will it go away?


----------



## gutwrencher

I've always had some sort of small magnetic problem but a few small magnets taped to just the right spot on the outside of the case seemed to work.


----------



## R8ders2K




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimmyWang214* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I read something similar wayyyy earlier in this thread, but I currently have a slight reddish discoloration at the upper right corner of my xbr960. My tv is out of warranty (2 years right?) is there anything I can do or will it go away?



FWIW, I also had that reddish discoloration in the upper right corner when I first got my 960, almost a couple of months ago. But it went away after the TV warmed up.


Have you tried unplugging it?


----------



## Nitru

I found the focus and g2 (screen) pots in the back right corner of the set. VERY slightly turning the g2 pot clockwise got rid of the blue and red rescan lines and got rid of the tints in the black screen. They had some white paint on there or something to either indicate the position (or that I touched it - hope it's not a warranty thing). It's odd they'd have it set too high by default especially since it's not good for the lifespan of the tube. I also was able to optimize the focus (again with a very slight adjustment). The picture looks great now. Just needs some touching up and a little geometry work. Overall it was a great bargain for the price, but I had to drive out 2.5 hours with a gas guzzling SUV to get it.


----------



## ckhirnigs113

Nitru, Are you saying you fixed the discolorations that I described in my earlier post? I would love to get some more details about what you did exactly.


I still have the warranty, so I don't want to void it by opening up the tv. I also don't want some clueless technician fumbling through solutions to my problem that could possibly do more damage. My main goal right now is getting info to tell the tech when he comes to my house to work on the tv. I would like to tell him what I have read here, and maybe he will take my advice.


I guess this shows that I have little hope that the tech will know what he's doing. I live in a rather small college town, and I doubt there is anyone with any experience with this tv. I'll just keep my fingers crossed for now and try to get more advice from you guys. -CK


----------



## HDTimeShifter

I don't know if this is the correct place, but since there is no longer a 34XBR800 thread, I'll post here. I bought a wide-screen 34XBR800 HD-capable TV (the predecessor to the 960?) 3 years ago and wonder if it is "digital-cable-ready". According to Comcast,

http://www.comcast.com/customers/faq...s.ashx?ID=2664 

"*Do I need a CableCARD or a special HD set-top box to view HD programming if I have a digital-cable-ready HDTV set?*


Digital-cable-ready HDTV sets have built-in HD capability so no special set-top box is required to receive HD signals for broadcast digital channels. You would need to use either a set-top box or a CableCARD to receive non-broadcast Comcast Digital Cable and/or HDTV channels that are not available on the basic service tier."


So if it is "digital-cable-ready", how do I view HD channels, or does "digital-cable-ready" mean it has to have a QAM tuner built in, which I doubt I have?


----------



## PeterTHX

You need to rent a cable card from your provider.


You can receive unscrambled (re: local) HD channels, but they will not be on the assigned channels that you would get with either a card or a box (you'd get them on channels such as 79.3, 81.2, etc)


----------



## RobMeyer1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTimeShifter* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't know if this is the correct place, but since there is no longer a 34XBR800 thread, I'll post here. I bought a wide-screen 34XBR800 HD-capable TV (the predecessor to the 960?) 3 years ago and wonder if it is "digital-cable-ready". According to Comcast,
> 
> http://www.comcast.com/customers/faq...s.ashx?ID=2664
> 
> "*Do I need a CableCARD or a special HD set-top box to view HD programming if I have a digital-cable-ready HDTV set?*
> 
> 
> Digital-cable-ready HDTV sets have built-in HD capability so no special set-top box is required to receive HD signals for broadcast digital channels. You would need to use either a set-top box or a CableCARD to receive non-broadcast Comcast Digital Cable and/or HDTV channels that are not available on the basic service tier."
> 
> 
> So if it is "digital-cable-ready", how do I view HD channels, or does "digital-cable-ready" mean it has to have a QAM tuner built in, which I doubt I have?



The predecessor to the 960 was the 910 which doesn't have a digital tuner. I believe it and the 800 were manufactured before the CableCard standard was set, so they don't accept a CableCard. You will need an HD cable box to receive scrambled cable channels. You can use component cables to send HD programming from the HD cable box to your TV.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobMeyer1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You can use component cables to send HD programming from the HD cable box to your TV.



Actually, the 800 has a DVI connector as well. So depending on the cable box the DVI option also exists.


I connected my cousin's 800 to a SA8300 via DVI (HDMi-to-DVI cable) expecting it to be wonderful, but there was some kind a "horizontal rolling" interference pattern (kind of waves of subtle color moving from right to left across the screen that ruined the picture). I don't know if the issue was the early 1st-generation DVI connection or something in the SA8300 or what.


So I went back to component video cables and the video disturbance disappeared.


But in theory, at least, the DVI option also exists.


----------



## bschmidt25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nitru* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just got my hands on a 960, but without the original remote. I can't seem to tune in to any cable channels. Only the "VHF/UHF" coax input seems to work, but the "cable" coax input doesn't. When I run the auto-tuner, it labels my source as Antenna instead of cable, and only finds basic channels. I know there's an "ANT" button to switch between tuners, is this what I need? How can I do this without the remote?



I had the same dilemma, except mine was set to cable and i wanted to tune in the OTA digital channels and couldn't. As far as I know, there is no way to without having a Sony remote with the ANT button on it. I borrowed the remote from a KV-40XBR800 (basically the same as the XBR960's remote) to switch the antenna input and make sure that it worked, then just ended up ordering a new remote. You can get a new RM-Y201, which is specific to the XBR960, for ~$40 from Sony Direct Parts. Just go to sony.com and you should be able to get to that website from there. Hope this helps.


----------



## fred33

HDMI: is there a firmware update for this on the xbr960?


----------



## HDTVFanAtic




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JimmyWang214* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I read something similar wayyyy earlier in this thread, but I currently have a slight reddish discoloration at the upper right corner of my xbr960. My tv is out of warranty (2 years right?) is there anything I can do or will it go away?



I am now seeing many people note their set is out of warranty (which makes sense) but did you guys really not buy the extended warranty on this set? I know I was pounding the table about it for reasons such as this. Mine has so paid for itself with the $200 I spent.


----------



## tvh3ad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTVFanAtic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am now seeing many people note their set is out of warranty (which makes sense) but did you guys really not buy the extended warranty on this set? I know I was pounding the table about it for reasons such as this. Mine has so paid for itself with the $200 I spent.



For those not totally out of warranty: if you registered your TV with Sony and did not buy a warranty when the set was new, you'll probably start getting extended-warranty offers from them in the mail a few months before yours expires. The offer is for an additional three years of in-home complete coverage for $300ish.


----------



## mr2828

Anyone know if the 960 remote control can control an Xbox 360 for playing DVDs?


I'm getting the HD-DVD addon soon, but for now figured I'd check.


----------



## Bitwize

howdy! i've been lovin' my 960 with the xbox 360/hd-dvd add-on and the ps3. i'm curious as to what others have set their vertical and horizontal picture size to in the service menu. my horizontal value is 40 and my vertical is 22. i am noticing a very slight glow near the far left and right edges of my screen. it is most noticeble with 2:35.1/2:40.1 movie material in brighter scenes. seems this brings more emphasis to the edge-glow if you will. regardless of how large i make the horizontal size, the glow is still there. it gets better with higher values, but is never completely removed. just wondering if this is just a normal occurrence with the 960. it's not a terribly annoying effect, but noticeable to a critical eye, especially in bright scenes.


i'm also finding the phosphor decay to be far less than desirable. funny this is, i was never really bothered by it until after having an SXRD and going "backwards" to direct view again. i mean, the decay is very gradual. the best way to see this is turning out all the lights, bringing up a bright scene for 10 seconds or so, and then turning the 960 off. i can see a blurry "ghost" image of the movie scene for quite a long time, as much as several minutes. it graduallly clears up but is annoying. the phosphor trails are something i'm dealing with, but the "ghosting" is really getting to me. a movie with bright material against a dark background really brings emphasis to the "ghosting." on a scene change, i'll reallly notice a transparent layering effect as the previous scene is apparent for several seconds overtop the new scene. okay, enough venting and whining. just looking for some insight/reassurance here. normal for 960? or defect? i've got around 8 months left on the warranty and this is my only tv at the moment.


----------



## Filipinoyakuza

So I just got my 60 gig PS3 last night and hooked it to my KD-34XBR960 using $10 HDMI cable I bought off monoprice.com.


My impressions so far:


Games I played last night:

-Resistance Fall Of Man

-Motorstorm downloaded demo

-Gran Turismo HD downloaded demo

-F1 Championship Racing downloaded demo

-NBA 07 downloaded demo

-Fight Night Round 3


Out of all the games I played last night the game that impressed me the most with graphics and gameplay was Resistance Fall Of Man.Both the demos for Gran Turismo HD and Motorstorm were very impressive also.Fight night round 3 I'm glad I rented that game first instead of spending $60+ for that game.


PS3 as a Blu-Ray player I havent had the time to watch a blu-ray movie.I got Superman Returns and The 5th Element blu-ray movies coming to me in the mail through gameznflicks and will watch those this weekend.


HDMI handshake between the HDMI cable and my TV I havent expericened some off the issues I've seen some posters post here such as, no sound or video, or constant flickering issue when the PS3 is connected to this TV through the HDMI cable.When I first setup my PS3 last night I connected the PS3 to my HDMI cable and went through the initial PS3 setup and downloaded the the latest PS3 update version 1.32 and my PS3 was optimized to run @ 1080i.


My questions are the following:


-What are the best settings for my HDMI input in pro mode for when playing games on PS3 and watching blu-ray movie using my PS3?Can some people who have the same setup with the PS3 and this TV post what settings they are using for the HDMI input?

-Will I get a better PQ using a HDMI cable from bettercables.com ?

-Does a HDMI switch device from monoprice.com that allows me to connect 2 or 5 devices using a HDMI cable.Will this type of device work on this TV.Since this TV only has one HDMI port.

-I've had this TV for a little over 2 years now.How can I get the Sony warranty extended for my TV? I did register my TV after I bought it on sonystyle.com


----------



## mr2828

I just also got a PS3 today.


Regarding HDMI, it's a digital connection so "better cables" makes no difference unless you are having a problem with your picture blinking out or something. Either the digital 1s and 0s make it to the tv, or they don't, there is no in between like in the analog world. Stick with the cheap cables - I am and it works great.


For switching, because I now have 4 hd devices, I ordered today the Joytech 540c (Xbox 360 type design) from walmart , which switches component stuff and also has an ethernet hub built in. It has gotten good reviews here on AVS. I'll plug all the ethernet into it and just run one line to my main router, and also plug all the component into it and only use one component input on the 960.


I noticed the PS3 has no infrared input - is there a bluetooth remote control available yet for it?


----------



## Bitwize

yes there is a blu-ray remote. just picked one up the other day. nice design and works very well.


----------



## foxfan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr2828* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Regarding HDMI, it's a digital connection so "better cables" makes no difference unless you are having a problem with your picture blinking out or something. Either the digital 1s and 0s make it to the tv, or they don't, there is no in between like in the analog world. Stick with the cheap cables - I am and it works great.



Yeah, but use them at your own risk! I've seen at least two DVD players ruined by an HDMI connector breaking off and getting stuck inside the plugs when low-end "Rocketfish" cables from Best Buy were used.


----------



## Ladd

For the edification of the community and those actually interested, please recall my previous postings with photos a few months ago about the large color blotches in the corners of my set. Some folks say they solved the problem on their sets with Landing adjustments, but that didn't work for me. Several trips by a local Sony Authorized servicer didn't help.


Sony said the only left to do was replace the tube, but none of the servicers in my area would do it. Sony then offered to replace my TV with a refurbished model or credit me pennies on the dollar towards a new LCD or micro-display set -- I reluctantly accepted the offer of a refurbished set.


The first replacement set arrived on November 14, unfortunately in three pieces:













Sony said a second, replacement refurbished set would immediately be ordered. More than six weeks later, here's what arrived this evening:













More photos and details of this increasingly unpleasant ordeal can be found HERE 



Feh.


----------



## S. Hiller

Horrible! Maybe Sony could be persuaded to pick up the original set to replace the tube at one of their own repair facilities...


----------



## mr2828

For the PS3 owners, here is something I ran across in another thread for generating some bonus HD calibration pics:



Do you have Talladega Nights with your PS3? If so, bring up the menu and then punch in 7669. (Only works with all Sony disks I have) This brings up some calibration screens. The first screen has a gray bar between two black bars --- set your brightness so that the grey bar becomes invisible and then make it just barely visible (+1 to brightness).


The 2nd screen shows you how much detail your plasma is capable of showing, if some parts flicker, it means the downscaling is introducing flicker.


The 3rd screen has a gray sweep - set your contrast to balance out the range of blacks and whites in there - ie: try to minimize the solid black and solid white areas - this keeps the maximum range of luma you can get on your TV.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr2828* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> and also plug all the component into it and only use one component input on the 960.



Just in passing, I too have a number of component video devices that I feed to my XBR960.


While INPUT5/INPUT6 are identical, the setup in service menu is different for 480p and 720p/1080i. In theory, by segregating your types of input by resolution so as to use INPUT5 and INPUT6 separately for true type of input, your service menu tweaks (if you do any) might produce better overall results.


Also, it is definitely true that in PRO mode the user menu settings for INPUT5 and INPUT6 are totally separate. So optimizing how the picture looks for the two inputs is independently controlled.


I don't have an upscaling DVD player so I've chosen to connect my 480p player to INPUT5 all by itself. Settings up INPUT5 in the user menu, and its corresponding service menu settings when I'm actually watching something in 480p (either DVE for test patterns or an actual DVD for "live" final touches), has produced a very fine result for DVDs.


Then the rest of my 720p/1080i component video sources (DVR, JVC 40K D-VHS, JVC DT100U D-VHS) I run through a Zektor HDS4 switch and then on to INPUT6 of the XBR960. Again, I now have INPUT6 separately adjustable in the user menu as well as the corresponding 720p/1080i settings in the service menu. Again, the results here are specific to 720p/1080i and INPUT6.


You might consider that type of source routing, since the characteristics of these boxes are each a bit different and you might find it more pleasing with respect to visual results to set up two switched groups of things with similar video resolutions and presentations and send them to INPUT5 and INPUT6 separately. This allows you to tune the XBR960 separately for the two source device groups.


----------



## Filipinoyakuza




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr2828* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For the PS3 owners, here is something I ran across in another thread for generating some bonus HD calibration pics:
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have Talladega Nights with your PS3? If so, bring up the menu and then punch in 7669. (Only works with all Sony disks I have) This brings up some calibration screens. The first screen has a gray bar between two black bars --- set your brightness so that the grey bar becomes invisible and then make it just barely visible (+1 to brightness).
> 
> 
> The 2nd screen shows you how much detail your plasma is capable of showing, if some parts flicker, it means the downscaling is introducing flicker.
> 
> 
> The 3rd screen has a gray sweep - set your contrast to balance out the range of blacks and whites in there - ie: try to minimize the solid black and solid white areas - this keeps the maximum range of luma you can get on your TV.



Hey thanks. I do have Talladega Nights blu-ray.I went into 7669.My question is when I'm in this calibration mode do I have to adjust the HDMI input settings through my TV menu?HDMI input on the XBR960 is input 7.


Here is what I current have my settings set to for HDMI input 7 on my TV:


Pro mode:

Picture: 47

Brightness: 45

Color: 29

Hue: 0

Sharpness: 32

Color Temp: Warm

ClearEdgeVM: Medium


Can u post what you have your HDMI input 7 settings u have your set currently on your TV for watching Blu-Ray movies and for when you play games on PS3 if you do?


Sorry if I sound like a newb.I never have calibrated my TV before.


----------



## DJF(NJ)




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bitwize* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> howdy! i've been lovin' my 960 with the xbox 360/hd-dvd add-on and the ps3. i'm curious as to what others have set their vertical and horizontal picture size to in the service menu. my horizontal value is 40 and my vertical is 22. i am noticing a very slight glow near the far left and right edges of my screen. it is most noticeble with 2:35.1/2:40.1 movie material in brighter scenes. seems this brings more emphasis to the edge-glow if you will. regardless of how large i make the horizontal size, the glow is still there. it gets better with higher values, but is never completely removed. just wondering if this is just a normal occurrence with the 960. it's not a terribly annoying effect, but noticeable to a critical eye, especially in bright scenes.
> 
> 
> i'm also finding the phosphor decay to be far less than desirable. funny this is, i was never really bothered by it until after having an SXRD and going "backwards" to direct view again. i mean, the decay is very gradual. the best way to see this is turning out all the lights, bringing up a bright scene for 10 seconds or so, and then turning the 960 off. i can see a blurry "ghost" image of the movie scene for quite a long time, as much as several minutes. it graduallly clears up but is annoying. the phosphor trails are something i'm dealing with, but the "ghosting" is really getting to me. a movie with bright material against a dark background really brings emphasis to the "ghosting." on a scene change, i'll reallly notice a transparent layering effect as the previous scene is apparent for several seconds overtop the new scene. okay, enough venting and whining. just looking for some insight/reassurance here. normal for 960? or defect? i've got around 8 months left on the warranty and this is my only tv at the moment.



There is discussion about this 'ghosting' a few pages back on this thread. I don't think it's a defect. Most people here report it to a certain degree. I notice it when watching Star Wars Episode III. In the opening sequence when Obi-Wan and Anakins fighter ships are flying over the star cruiser and do their barrel rolls before diving into action, I notice it greatly. FWIW, my sets been ISF calibrated as well. However, I dont notice it on scene changes. As far as when turning the TV off, yes I notice 'ghost' image too, but for not as long as you report. Maybe a couple of seconds. What I do now is shut the source off first so the screen goes blank and then shut the TV off last to minimize that effect.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Filipinoyakuza* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey thanks. I do have Talladega Nights blu-ray.I went into 7669.My question is when I'm in this calibration mode do I have to adjust the HDMI input settings through my TV menu?HDMI input on the XBR960 is input 7.



I believe the description of the brightness adjustment technique using that black/gray bar is the same as the Pluge bar you might find on various test patterns from the DVE (Digital Video Essentials) and AVIA calibration DVDs.


And yes, you use these test patterns included on your new BRD "Talladega Nights" as if they were from DVR or AVIA as reference material to adjust the video parameters that appear in the "user menu" of the XBR960.




> Quote:
> Here is what I current have my settings set to for HDMI input 7 on my TV:
> 
> 
> Pro mode:
> 
> Picture: 47
> 
> Brightness: 45
> 
> Color: 29
> 
> Hue: 0
> 
> Sharpness: 32
> 
> Color Temp: Warm
> 
> ClearEdgeVM: Medium



You will find much more very detailed information about micro-level adjustments for the XBR960 in the other thread specifically devoted to that type of material.


But as far as user-menu adjustments, I think most of the people who have been watching and tweaking the XBR960 for several years will agree that if you're feeding HDMI-quality input on INPUT7 then you need to refine your settings as shown above.


Not that my settings will necessarily go along with your tastes or source content (or internal service menu settings, for that matter) but just for your own reference as something else to try (and possibly make your own final adjustments to, until you're satisfied with how things look) here are mine (which are very similar to my settings for INPUT6 where I feed 720p/1080i component video sources):


Mode PRO

Picture 35

Brightness 32

Color 31

Hue 0

Sharpness MIN

Color Temp COOL

Clear Edge OFF

Adv Color Axis DEFAULT


Note SHARPNESS=MIN, which is very important for the highest quality display of high-quality HD content. You don't want to add anything artificial to the image, which is precisely what non-zero SHARPNESS does.


Also, turning down our PICTURE and BRIGHTNESS will provide a much more detailed and realistic image... but only if you view things in a dark room. If you watch in broad daylight my settings will cause you to scratch your head and say "huh?" as the screen will seem very dark and with almost no image. But just like in a movie theater, turn your lights off and close the shades (if daytime) when you watch HD and the properly adjusted image will appear alive and 3D on the XBR960.


Finally, there is a critical adjustment down in the service menu that improves skin color dramatically, i.e. it eliminates the factory-preset red bias which is characteristic of Sony CRT sets. Skin tone will appear truly human-like and not as if the people onscreen have a fever. Since you haven't ever "calibrated" a set before I won't bedazzle you with service menu jargon, but if you go to that other very large thread on "Sony tweaking" and start reading slowly, you will eventually learn how to get into the service menu and do things.


And when you're ready, you'll want to adjust:


RYR 0-15 13 (8)

RYB 0-15 15 (9)

GYR 0-15 5 (9)

GYB 0-15 4 (6)


where the first column identifies the four service menu items, the second column shows the range of possible values, and the third column shows the values you should set with the original factory-preset Sony values in parentheses.


I happen to like skin tone with the above four values (and the complementary user menu settings for color, color temp, and color axis, as I've enumerated above). Others go with 14, 14, 6,4 and are also happy. Either way, we all agree that the factory preset values are wrong and produce a noticeably reddish tint to human skin color, aka "red push". And it needs adjusting.


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bitwize* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ......i'm also finding the phosphor decay to be far less than desirable. funny this is, i was never really bothered by it until after having an SXRD and going "backwards" to direct view again. i mean, the decay is very gradual. the best way to see this is turning out all the lights, bringing up a bright scene for 10 seconds or so, and then turning the 960 off. i can see a blurry "ghost" image of the movie scene for quite a long time, as much as several minutes. it graduallly clears up but is annoying. the phosphor trails are something i'm dealing with, but the "ghosting" is really getting to me. a movie with bright material against a dark background really brings emphasis to the "ghosting." on a scene change, i'll reallly notice a transparent layering effect as the previous scene is apparent for several seconds overtop the new scene. okay, enough venting and whining. just looking for some insight/reassurance here. normal for 960? or defect? i've got around 8 months left on the warranty and this is my only tv at the moment.



You may be using the TV with contrast too high for the viewing environment. The 960 is capable of luminance levels way too high for a dimly lit room. In this situation, with the lower black levels, the phosphor speed can be an issue. when you use bias lighting and some ambient light in the room, the needed increase in black level to see all the detail can partially mask the issue. You might experiment with lowering the "Picture" setting and adjusting "Brightness", they interact to see if the problem lessens. If you are viewing in a dark room with high contrast/picture, it can be a little fatiguing and uncomfortable to watch for long periods.


----------



## Tkbalt

Looking at new in box 960N at a local dealer. Is this set really worth half again the price of the 970?? I would love to have the tube and other features of the 960 - but am having a hard time choking down the price. I have ready much of this monster thread and the 970 thread (which recommends the 960). Local dealer will not move off price.


Edit - I put some money down on the 960 to have an opportunity to get some input from you on the logic of this purchase. Is the 960N a serious upgrade over the 970? I will be coming from a 43in Pioneer Elite Plasma that has a stunning picture.


I am moving the plasma into my basement and need something to replace it in my living room with a smaller 5.1 setup.


Your input would be appreciated.


----------



## Tkbalt

Has anybody tried the XBR 4 stand for their 960?

http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTE...p&DCMP=FROOGLE 



I need more room than what the XBR3 stand provides. Also - the Sony stands are only 18 high. Is that high enough? Most of the aftermarket stands I have been looking at are 22+ inches high???


----------



## HonestAbe52

I have this stand - DVD player, TV and VCR all fit just fine on it.


----------



## HonestAbe52

How could it you ask. How could the vast moral superiority one feels as you walk by motion blurred $3000 LCD's in Best Buy increase?


Here's how - I did not even bother to get up when my 8 month old boy tried to grab the objects on his Baby Einstein DVD, I knew I just clean the screen later on!


Happy New Year to all that follow the Gregorian calendar.


----------



## Tkbalt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HonestAbe52* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have this stand - DVD player, TV and VCR all fit just fine on it.



Which Stand? The XBR3 or XBR4?


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tkbalt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looking at new in box 960N at a local dealer. Is this set really worth half again the price of the 970?? I would love to have the tube and other features of the 960 - but am having a hard time choking down the price. I have ready much of this monster thread and the 970 thread (which recommends the 960). Local dealer will not move off price.
> 
> 
> Edit - I put some money down on the 960 to have an opportunity to get some input from you on the logic of this purchase. Is the 960N a serious upgrade over the 970? I will be coming from a 43in Pioneer Elite Plasma that has a stunning picture.
> 
> 
> I am moving the plasma into my basement and need something to replace it in my living room with a smaller 5.1 setup.
> 
> 
> Your input would be appreciated.



Yes, it is definately a significant upgrade unless you are planning on sitting like 12+ feet from the set or have poor vision. You are incredibly lucky to have found one of these sets new. If it was me, I wouldn't hesitate. The "N" model does not have the antiglare coating either, which is a plus, IMO.


BTW - I am a very happy 960 owner.


----------



## HonestAbe52

I have the 3 - its a bit of a squeeze with the Tivo but it works.


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, it is definitely a significant upgrade unless you are planning on sitting like 12+ feet from the set or have poor vision.



12', what happened to 1.5 times screen width for HD..........at 30" SW, that is 45". Just a little too close for most and you will see the screen grain at that distance. 12' is 4.8 x SW, a little far to get full benefit of the TV. Further back for the 970 screen, good distances might be 6'-8' for the 960 and 8'-10'+ for the 970.


----------



## DSperber

Quote:

Originally Posted by *GlenC*
good distances might be 6'-8' for the 960 and 8'-10'+ for the 970.
Don't see why these two sets of identical screen sizes would have different "critical viewing distance (CVD)" values?


Yes, the smaller sets are small and require that you sit closer (but not too close) for best effect. But it's also based on what's being displayed, meaning what the resolution is of the material on the screen. Lower resolution means you should sit further back, higher resolution means you should sit closer in.


The reference materials (see below) suggest 1080i should be properly viewed at about a 30 degree viewing angle (THX calls for 36 degrees, meaning viewing is even closer), which puts you at a CVD = (3.2 x screen height). For the following diagonal screen sizes here are those distances (add roughly one foot on smaller sizes or two feet on larger sizes for a CVD of 4.0), again for 1080i viewing:


70" = 110"

65" = 102"

60" = 94"

55" = 86"

50" = 78"

40" = 63"

34" = 53"

Here is a convenient "calculator" for viewing distance vs. screen size at various resolutions.


I'm also attaching a chart taken from Sound and Vision magazine (Feb 2006) that provides the same type of data but graphing the result using colored lines. Sorry for the resolution.


Personally, I sit in a comfortable chair about 5' from my 34XBR960. Yes that's close, but the picture is superb from that distance. I'd recommend 5'-7' for 1080i viewing on a 34" set (either 960 or 970), a bit closer than your 6'-8'. Of course individual tastes and needs will influence that.

 

Viewing_Distance.zip 154.0654296875k . file


----------



## Tkbalt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes, it is definately a significant upgrade unless you are planning on sitting like 12+ feet from the set or have poor vision. You are incredibly lucky to have found one of these sets new. If it was me, I wouldn't hesitate. The "N" model does not have the antiglare coating either, which is a plus, IMO.
> 
> 
> BTW - I am a very happy 960 owner.



Thanks - I feel pretty lucky to have found the set. The store had it on hold since May and the guy never came in to pick it up. Manager got involved and released it. Was in Circuit City today looking for stands and they had the 970's marked way down - could buy (2) for what I will pay for the 960N??????


I am still going to move ahead on the 960 based on all of the positive comments from this forum. Thanks for the feedback.


----------



## Tkbalt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HonestAbe52* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the 3 - its a bit of a squeeze with the Tivo but it works.



Thanks HonestAbe52 - I was in BB today and asked about the sony stands for the xbr's. They initially said they did not have any and then did a search on the computer - had (4) XBR3 stands in stock - $29.95 each. Yep - thirty bucks. Even the clerk was shocked. My debate over the XBR3 or the XBR4 stand ended. I bought one and just got done with assembly. It is a nice stand.


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Don't see why these two sets of identical screen sizes would have different "critical viewing distance (CVD)" values?



The 970 is not a SFP tube. It is like looking at a EDTV vs a HDTV, or sit too close to a 720p DLP and you see SDE, but not on the 1080p. You can sit the same distance from a 970, but I think the picture is better, sitting further back.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bitwize* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> yes there is a blu-ray remote. just picked one up the other day. nice design and works very well.



I'm still waiting to see what you meant about the component video being better than HDMI on this TV, in terms of anything specific. Please check your PM. Thanks.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm still waiting to see what you meant about the component video being better than HDMI on this TV, in terms of anything specific. Please check your PM. Thanks.



Component video is sharper than HDMI with this set. About 15-20% sharper to my eyes; however, you need high quality/well shielded cables to get the full benefit.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Component video is sharper than HDMI with this set. About 15-20% sharper to my eyes; however, you need high quality/well shielded cables to get the full benefit.



That's interesting. I have my cablebox on input 6 via componet and input 7 via HDMI. I'm using cables from bettercables (a former forum sponsor) and don't see a difference when switching between the two. I did have both inputs ISF'ed so that may be why I see no difference.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's interesting. I have my cablebox on input 6 via componet and input 7 via HDMI. I'm using cables from bettercables (a former forum sponsor) and don't see a difference when switching between the two. I did have both inputs ISF'ed so that may be why I see no difference.



Same here.


----------



## R8ders2K

I've tried searching, but I just haven't found an answer...










Does the 960 have a HDMI problem?


Is there a problem with 1080i vs. 480i?


Initially, I thought that my problem was with my D* HR20, as the 1080i signal would go blank, necessitating a reboot of the HR20. So, I went back to component.


Then I hooked up my Oppo Digital DV-970HD upconverting DVD player. When set for 1080i, after awhile the video would go blank, no audio. But there's no problem at 480i.


Yesterday, I hooked up a Zenith HD-520SAT via DVI-HDMI to a Monoprice 5x1 switch @ 1080i. I got it off eBay for OTA HD, as I'm giving by mom my "old" KV-32XBR450. Initially, it was GREAT picture, but while I was cleaning up the digital channels, the screen which blank.


I've already tried 2 different cables. One was a Sony cable and the other was the cable supplied by Oppo.


Comments...?


----------



## christophersj

I have seen both here on this forum: People who have had a problem with HDMI port and those who have not. Being a forum for trouble shooting, there have indeed been folks with your problem here.


I have not seen the problem on mine or my neighbor's 34xbr960.


Can someone else chime in about repair of the HDMI port?


-Christopher Johnson


----------



## Filipinoyakuza

Has anyone bought and used the 5x1 HDMI switch off monoprice.com with this TV?


If so are there any problems with this HDMI switch on this TV? Also how is the PQ and is the switch pretty simple to use?


I would like to know because I'm thinking of buying this HDMI switch since my 1 HDMI input is being used by TV and I need more ports for my upscaling DVD player and my HD DVR cable box.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's interesting. I have my cablebox on input 6 via componet and input 7 via HDMI. I'm using cables from bettercables (a former forum sponsor) and don't see a difference when switching between the two. I did have both inputs ISF'ed so that may be why I see no difference.



You have to have all edge enhancements equalized (preferrably turned off completely) to make an accurate comparison. Try turning Velocity Scan Mod. to off and setting sharpness at MIN in pro mode, and then compare. The difference will not blow you away, but it is clearer. Ask ISF calibrator Chad B. - he has verified this with test patterns, and made me aware of it when he did my set.


Because of this discovery, I no longer use HDMI for anything on my set - it is that significant of a difference to my eyes.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's interesting. I have my cablebox on input 6 via componet and input 7 via HDMI. I'm using cables from bettercables (a former forum sponsor) and don't see a difference when switching between the two. I did have both inputs ISF'ed so that may be why I see no difference.



Agreed from me as well. But obviously it depends on whether INPUT5/6 and INPUT7 (and, optionally, firewire and ATSC) have been adjusted at least in the user menu (if not also separately in the service menu for items where settings are by input source so that it might matter), to optimize viewing on that input, in order for the no-difference to be clear.


I HAD my two paths of DVR-to-XBR960 available until it was obvious there was no reason to use the HDMI approach and I much preferred the convenience of only having to switch my multiple 720p/1080i component inputs on my Zektor HDS4 rather than also involve the "serially rotated" input switch on the XBR960.


Add to that the occasional odd behavior of things because of the presence of a first generation HDMI connection and it becomes apparent that there's just no real advantage to using HDMI with this CRT.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You have to have all edge enhancements equalized (preferrably turned off completely) to make an accurate comparison. Try turning Velocity Scan Mod. to off and setting sharpness at MIN in pro mode, and then compare. The difference will not blow you away, but it is clearer. Ask ISF calibrator Chad B. - he has verified this with test patterns, and made me aware of it when he did my set.
> 
> 
> Because of this discovery, I no longer use HDMI for anything on my set - it is that significant of a difference to my eyes.



As the saying goes - your mileage may vary


By making the changes you are recommending I would take my set out of calibration and would expect to see a difference between the two.


----------



## DJF(NJ)




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You have to have all edge enhancements equalized (preferrably turned off completely) to make an accurate comparison. Try turning Velocity Scan Mod. to off and setting sharpness at MIN in pro mode, and then compare. The difference will not blow you away, but it is clearer. Ask ISF calibrator Chad B. - he has verified this with test patterns, and made me aware of it when he did my set.
> 
> 
> Because of this discovery, I no longer use HDMI for anything on my set - it is that significant of a difference to my eyes.



Same here...I prefer using the component cables as well! When did Chad do your set??? I live in Lakewood and he was here on September 5th of 06. Great guy!


----------



## Bitwize




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You have to have all edge enhancements equalized (preferrably turned off completely) to make an accurate comparison. Try turning Velocity Scan Mod. to off and setting sharpness at MIN in pro mode, and then compare. The difference will not blow you away, but it is clearer. Ask ISF calibrator Chad B. - he has verified this with test patterns, and made me aware of it when he did my set.
> 
> 
> Because of this discovery, I no longer use HDMI for anything on my set - it is that significant of a difference to my eyes.



Q of Banditz: Bingo, just as RWetmore has stated. Chad B verified this for my 960 as well. I'm still using HDMI for the PS3 though as I'm out of component inputs for the time being.


----------



## Bitwize




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DJF(NJ)* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Same here...I prefer using the component cables as well! When did Chad do your set??? I live in Lakewood and he was here on September 5th of 06. Great guy!



Yes, indeed. Chad has been a friend of mine for years and has calibrated a half dozen TVs for me. One of the nicest fellas on the planet and humble at that. I highly recommend Chad for any display calibration. For those that don't know, he can be reached via www.hdtvbychadb.com .


----------



## Q of BanditZ

^^ Chad rocks! See my thread history for my ISF experience with him!












> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bitwize* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Q of Banditz: Bingo, just as RWetmore has stated. Chad B verified this for my 960 as well. I'm still using HDMI for the PS3 though as I'm out of component inputs for the time being.



Sure, that's cool. I wasn't doubting your word nor Chad's, who as you all know did my ISF calibration as well.


I honestly can't remember if Chad ever mentioned to me when he was here that the HDMI was inferior to components in any way, but I had him ISF the HDMI and the components so at least by naked eye perception: You can't see any differences at all.


It wouldn't halfway surprise me if this is a case by case scenario, just like some of the other bugaboos and funny issues we've seen discussed in this uber massive thread over the last two years. *shrugs*


Since these are analog devices anyways, if someone is using the HDMI connection, doesn't that mean that there's a mandatory digital to analog video conversion that's going to happen anyways, since this a tube set? Nature of the beast?


That right there could explain any differences right off the bat, IMO.


Kind of interesting...


----------



## Mathesar

When comparing DVD playback on my Panasonic S97S player via Component vs. HDMI I found the HDMI input slightly darker and less colorful vs. Component on my XBR960, I compared using the same picture settings and even tried compensating the HDMI input by adjusting picture settings but I just couldnt get it to look quite as good. This doesnt mean it looks 'bad' over HDMI by any means in fact I still use it being my Xbox360 & Wii are using both Component inputs on the TV.


But admititly its a bit disappointing that HDMI looks worse.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DJF(NJ)* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Same here...I prefer using the component cables as well! When did Chad do your set??? I live in Lakewood and he was here on September 5th of 06. Great guy!



Chad was headed to Lakewood for his next calibration when he was done with my set, so it was probably you. If I recall correctly, he came on Labor Day to do my set.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I honestly can't remember if Chad ever mentioned to me when he was here that the HDMI was inferior to components in any way, but I had him ISF the HDMI and the components so at least by naked eye perception: You can't see any differences at all.



He probably has the sharpness or other edge enhancing adjustments higher with HDMI to achieve the same perceived level of clarity. The advantage of going to component, is you can achieve a smoother, more natural looking sharpness without a lot or any edge enhancement. Once again, you do need high grade, well shielded cables to get the full benefit (95% copper braid/ 100% foil shield to block out any interference that can cause ringing on the edges of objects).


----------



## Filipinoyakuza




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I believe the description of the brightness adjustment technique using that black/gray bar is the same as the Pluge bar you might find on various test patterns from the DVE (Digital Video Essentials) and AVIA calibration DVDs.
> 
> 
> And yes, you use these test patterns included on your new BRD "Talladega Nights" as if they were from DVR or AVIA as reference material to adjust the video parameters that appear in the "user menu" of the XBR960.
> 
> 
> 
> You will find much more very detailed information about micro-level adjustments for the XBR960 in the other thread specifically devoted to that type of material.
> 
> 
> But as far as user-menu adjustments, I think most of the people who have been watching and tweaking the XBR960 for several years will agree that if you're feeding HDMI-quality input on INPUT7 then you need to refine your settings as shown above.
> 
> 
> Not that my settings will necessarily go along with your tastes or source content (or internal service menu settings, for that matter) but just for your own reference as something else to try (and possibly make your own final adjustments to, until you're satisfied with how things look) here are mine (which are very similar to my settings for INPUT6 where I feed 720p/1080i component video sources):
> 
> 
> Mode PRO
> 
> Picture 35
> 
> Brightness 32
> 
> Color 31
> 
> Hue 0
> 
> Sharpness MIN
> 
> Color Temp COOL
> 
> Clear Edge OFF
> 
> Adv Color Axis DEFAULT
> 
> 
> Note SHARPNESS=MIN, which is very important for the highest quality display of high-quality HD content. You don't want to add anything artificial to the image, which is precisely what non-zero SHARPNESS does.
> 
> 
> Also, turning down our PICTURE and BRIGHTNESS will provide a much more detailed and realistic image... but only if you view things in a dark room. If you watch in broad daylight my settings will cause you to scratch your head and say "huh?" as the screen will seem very dark and with almost no image. But just like in a movie theater, turn your lights off and close the shades (if daytime) when you watch HD and the properly adjusted image will appear alive and 3D on the XBR960.
> 
> 
> Finally, there is a critical adjustment down in the service menu that improves skin color dramatically, i.e. it eliminates the factory-preset red bias which is characteristic of Sony CRT sets. Skin tone will appear truly human-like and not as if the people onscreen have a fever. Since you haven't ever "calibrated" a set before I won't bedazzle you with service menu jargon, but if you go to that other very large thread on "Sony tweaking" and start reading slowly, you will eventually learn how to get into the service menu and do things.
> 
> 
> And when you're ready, you'll want to adjust:
> 
> 
> RYR 0-15 13 (8)
> 
> RYB 0-15 15 (9)
> 
> GYR 0-15 5 (9)
> 
> GYB 0-15 4 (6)
> 
> 
> where the first column identifies the four service menu items, the second column shows the range of possible values, and the third column shows the values you should set with the original factory-preset Sony values in parentheses.
> 
> 
> I happen to like skin tone with the above four values (and the complementary user menu settings for color, color temp, and color axis, as I've enumerated above). Others go with 14, 14, 6,4 and are also happy. Either way, we all agree that the factory preset values are wrong and produce a noticeably reddish tint to human skin color, aka "red push". And it needs adjusting.



Hello thanks for all the help.I set my settings to that for my HDMI input 7 on my TV which looks gret for viewing blu-ray movies on my PS3 but when I play games like Resistance Fall Of Man the game just looks to dark.


Could you post what settings you have your TV set to for when playing games on PS3 on this TV?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Filipinoyakuza* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello thanks for all the help.I set my settings to that for my HDMI input 7 on my TV which looks gret for viewing blu-ray movies



Glad to hear it.




> Quote:
> but when I play games like Resistance Fall Of Man the game just looks to dark. Could you post what settings you have your TV set to for when playing games on PS3 on this TV?



Can't help you there. I'm not a gamester. I have never played a video game and have nothing connected to my XBR960 except for SD/HD TV/D-VHS sources and 480p DVD.


If the PRO settings are too dark for game playing from PS3 (not surprising) why don't you go to STANDARD and see how that looks. That will punch up the overall picture as would also be necessary for watching in a broad daylight room instead of a dark room. At the very least you can adjust picture and brightness and everything else there while in STANDARD and not affect the PRO settings on the same input.


This will allow you to watch high quality HD in the dark via PRO, and play games with STANDARD. Should work.


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Filipinoyakuza* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hello thanks for all the help.I set my settings to that for my HDMI input 7 on my TV which looks gret for viewing blu-ray movies on my PS3 but when I play games like Resistance Fall Of Man the game just looks to dark.
> 
> 
> Could you post what settings you have your TV set to for when playing games on PS3 on this TV?



I only use Pro mode when watching standard cable channels and Standard mode for DVDs / HD channels and all of my consoles (Wii / Xbox / Xbox360 / PS2) , also if possible you might try using the PS3's Component cables instead of HDMI. The XBR960's HDMI performance is known to be slightly worse than Component.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Lately many have stated component provides better picture quality than HDMI. It seems this is a change in consensus from a while ago when HDMI was the preferred cable.


I was wondering - has anybody who PREFERRED using HDMI in the past now switched to component? I will probably make a test myself to see if there is noticable improvement (using the INHD test patterns stored on DVR to get the best settings). With only one HDMI input I wouldn't mind freeing it for something else, but not at the cost of reducing picture quality on HD.


Thanks as always,

Joe


----------



## drkashner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Lately many have stated component provides better picture quality than HDMI. It seems this is a change in consensus from a while ago when HDMI was the preferred cable.
> 
> 
> I was wondering - has anybody who PREFERRED using HDMI in the past now switched to component? I will probably make a test myself to see if there is noticable improvement (using the INHD test patterns stored on DVR to get the best settings). With only one HDMI input I wouldn't mind freeing it for something else, but not at the cost of reducing picture quality on HD.
> 
> 
> Thanks as always,
> 
> Joe



After reading here that component looked better, I connected my DTV HR10-250 DVR via component and HDMI and I couldn't tell any difference on OTA HD. I have my antenna connected to the DVR And directly to the 960, and I've noticed that OTA HD usually looks better directly on the 960 tuner and not through the DVR, not sure why.


----------



## mr2828

If I had a tv like an LCD that is made of pixels, I would use HDMI. That would minimize unnecessary analog -> digital conversions. However with a CRT set like the 960, it's an analog device, so if you feed it a digital HDMI signal it has to convert it internally to component before it can work with it. I think right in the back of the set probably where the HDMI port is is a converter to make it component, and then past that point the tv treats it as if it were a component input.


So basically at some point in the chain of connections the signal will have to get switched to component. It's possible that the 960's conversion of HDMI/digital to component may be better or worse than for instance your cable tv DVR or whatever. You'll have to compare.


----------



## jpl3447

I use the HDMI hookup from my Pioneer DV-59AVi DVD player because the benchmark tests showed that art least for the DVD player, there were fewer errors when using the HDMI over component. I don't know if it makes a difference that I am using a 960 television. Otherwise I would use component.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Lately many have stated component provides better picture quality than HDMI. It seems this is a change in consensus from a while ago when HDMI was the preferred cable.
> 
> 
> I was wondering - has anybody who PREFERRED using HDMI in the past now switched to component? I will probably make a test myself to see if there is noticable improvement (using the INHD test patterns stored on DVR to get the best settings). With only one HDMI input I wouldn't mind freeing it for something else, but not at the cost of reducing picture quality on HD.
> 
> 
> Thanks as always,
> 
> Joe



I did prefer HDMI and used it for a year or so because on quick comparisons the picture looked cleaner than when using component; I just assumed it was better. It wasn't until Chad pointed out that component is clearer than HDMI, that I decided to compare the two again with more scrutiny. I quickly realized that the "cleaner" look of the HDMI was due to a slight, but artificial softening of the picture, which reduced the appearance flaws, but more importantly reduced overall clarity as well. Clean sources such as HD-DVD are significantly clearer and more three dimensional with component. I'll never go back to HDMI with this set, and I have recently bought a component switcher so I can hook up three devices via component.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr2828* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If I had a tv like an LCD that is made of pixels, I would use HDMI. That would minimize unnecessary analog -> digital conversions. However with a CRT set like the 960, it's an analog device, so if you feed it a digital HDMI signal it has to convert it internally to component before it can work with it. I think right in the back of the set probably where the HDMI port is is a converter to make it component, and then past that point the tv treats it as if it were a component input.
> 
> 
> So basically at some point in the chain of connections the signal will have to get switched to component. It's possible that the 960's conversion of HDMI/digital to component may be better or worse than for instance your cable tv DVR or whatever. You'll have to compare.



It's interesting to read all the responses to my question and it seems component is now the preferred choice, although even the Sony user's manual lists HDMI as the best, followed by component. Even on LCDs, would not the signal at some point need to be converted to analog?


I do know the 960's upconversion of a 480I DVD signal is better than setting my player's output to 480 and as you point out, it depends on the DVR, etc. Guess the only way to find out is to make the test. I'll, of course, let all know what I've found.


Thanks to everyone,

Joe


----------



## RWetmore

I'm pretty sure component looking clearer on the Sony CRTs doesn't have anything to do with component and the TV both being analog devices. It is the way the HDMI is implemented that is causing the reduction in clarity, not the digital HDMI technology itself.


----------



## mr2828




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Even on LCDs, would not the signal at some point need to be converted to analog?



No - on pixel-based displays like an LCD, there is no equivalent of the line-by-line drawing across the screen that a CRT TV does. The LCD can take the HDMI/DVI digital picture data, and map the pixels in that data directly to its own display pixels losslessly.


It's a reverse situation of a CRT, because on the LCD if you feed it an analog signal like SD or component it has to digitize that into digital form first before it can work with it, which can introduce visual quality problems. This was a downside of digital displays years back before HDMI/DVI existed.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr2828* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No - on pixel-based displays like an LCD, there is no equivalent of the line-by-line drawing across the screen that a CRT TV does. The LCD can take the HDMI/DVI digital picture data, and map the pixels in that data directly to its own display pixels losslessly.
> 
> 
> It's a reverse situation of a CRT, because on the LCD if you feed it an analog signal like SD or component it has to digitize that into digital form first before it can work with it, which can introduce visual quality problems. This was a downside of digital displays years back before HDMI/DVI existed.



I'm sorry, but I don't believe this is correct. Where are you getting this information? Sources?


----------



## jpl3447




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I do know the 960's upconversion of a 480I DVD signal is better than setting my player's output to 480 and as you point out, it depends on the DVR, etc. Guess the only way to find out is to make the test. I'll, of course, let all know what I've found.
> 
> 
> Thanks to everyone,
> 
> Joe



That is another thing about my Pioneer DV-59AVi, is that it can output 480i through the HDMI. So I set it at 480i and let the 960 upconvert it. I wonder if this clearness reported by others when using component was derived from comparing it to an HDMI source that was performing the scan conversions using a device other than the 960. (


----------



## tvh3ad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jpl3447* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That is another thing about my Pioneer DV-59AVi, is that it can output 480i through the HDMI. So I set it at 480i and let the 960 upconvert it. I wonder if this clearness reported by others when using component was derived from comparing it to an HDMI source that was performing the scan conversions using a device other than the 960. (


----------



## mr2828




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm sorry, but I don't believe this is correct. Where are you getting this information? Sources?



Be more specific, what exactly of what I said don't you think is right? Or all of it?


You don't think LCDs are individually controllable pixel-based displays? Well read up on active matrix LCDs, because they are. There is a refresh cycle used to gain this total control over each pixel in the display, but this is unrelated to the kind of video signaling used in analog video formats.


You don't think HDMI contains a digital pixel-based representation of the video image? Read up on HDMI. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI 


You don't think an LCD can take that HDMI data and display it directly on its pixel matrix without having to convert it to an analog format? Here is an old Anandtech review - scroll down to page 3 where it talks about "the importance of being digital". This explains how DVI (and later HDMI) solved the quality problem of D -> A -> D conversions, and provides a direct Digital -> Digital path with no analog involved:

http://www.anandtech.com/printarticle.aspx?i=1757 


You don't think a pixel-based display device has to digitize an incoming analog signal into a pixel-based digital format before it can display it? Well besides the anandtech article, here is an old article from circa 1997 discussing how it's necessary to digitize RGB inputs for use on LCDs:

http://www.analog.com/en/content/0,2...5F6963,00.html 


Another mention of digital TVs containing analog -> digital chips for analog inputs:

http://www.electronicproducts.com/Sh...g.oct2006.html


----------



## Rmutz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Lately many have stated component provides better picture quality than HDMI. It seems this is a change in consensus from a while ago when HDMI was the preferred cable.
> 
> 
> I was wondering - has anybody who PREFERRED using HDMI in the past now switched to component?



I'm still using HDMI. Last time I did a comparison I tried comparing both component and HDMI to the OTA antenna input since I figured OTA should give me the purest picture and thus be my benchmark. In the end, I couldn't tell much difference between all three, but maybe my eyes are going.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




mr2828 said:


> You don't think an LCD can take that HDMI data and display it directly on its pixel matrix without having to convert it to an analog format? Here is an old Anandtech review - scroll down to page 3 where it talks about "the importance of being digital". This explains how DVI (and later HDMI) solved the quality problem of D -> A -> D conversions, and provides a direct Digital -> Digital path with no analog involved
> 
> 
> 
> While not a technician, I find your information quite interesting. I know digital audio has to be converted back to analog in order for us to hear it. Doesn't the same D/A conversion hold true for video in order for us to see it? If so, wouldn't the HDMI signal need to be converted back to analog, no matter if the monitor was LCD or CRT?
Click to expand...


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure component looking clearer on the Sony CRTs doesn't have anything to do with component and the TV both being analog devices. It is the way the HDMI is implemented that is causing the reduction in clarity, not the digital HDMI technology itself.



Yes, the output on the HD box or HD-DVR is critical. Mine is set to "HDMI" so no upconverted signal is ouptut allowing the 960 to do all signal processing. When I experimented with the box's upconversion options picture quality then deteriated; do not know if this would have been the same using component.


----------



## G-Bull




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> While not a technician, I find your information quite interesting. I know digital audio has to be converted back to analog in order for us to hear it. Doesn't the same D/A conversion hold true for video in order for us to see it? If so, wouldn't the HDMI signal need to be converted back to analog, no matter if the monitor was LCD or CRT?



You're correct that an audio receiver does output an analog signal to the speakers, because SOUND is analog. Speakers are simple devices. So a good receiver takes a digital signal, does whatever it does, then as a last step converts the signal to analog so the speakers can make sound. Otherwise, if the receiver outputted a digital signal to the speakers, the speakers themselves would have to have chips and such to convert that signal to analog so they could make sound. But that would just be redundant because that's what you have a receiver for - to give the speakers a nice, clean analog signal.


Regarding an LCD TV, it processes all the video information digitally, and it turns the LCD pixels on and off digitally. Everything is digital, there is no conversion to analog in how the LCD TV displays the video information.


There is, however, one final digital to analog conversion that has to take place in order for us to actually see what the TV is displaying. The light waves generated by the light bulb in the TV - when they pass through the LCD, the TV is "converting" the digital information it's displaying on the LCD into analog light waves. But the TV itself doesn't change any of the data to analog in order to manipulate the image. The final display on the LCD screen is digital. The only thing that's analog is the light waves passing through the digital display and traveling to your eyes.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure component looking clearer on the Sony CRTs doesn't have anything to do with component and the TV both being analog devices. It is the way the HDMI is implemented that is causing the reduction in clarity, not the digital HDMI technology itself.



On the Sony sets, the HDMI signal is immediately converted on the P board (HDMI Receiver) to component video, which is then routed through the exact same modules as the video5/6 component video. This is based upon the block diagrams and schematics in the service manual.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> On the Sony sets, the HDMI signal is immediately converted on the P board (HDMI Receiver) to component video, which is then routed through the exact same modules as the video5/6 component video. This is based upon the block diagrams and schematics in the service manual.



But is the signal being converted to component video on that P board better if received digitally though HDMI rather than analog via component?


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> On the Sony sets, the HDMI signal is immediately converted on the P board (HDMI Receiver) to component video, which is then routed through the exact same modules as the video5/6 component video. This is based upon the block diagrams and schematics in the service manual.



Cables make a difference too. I just replaced my cheap HDMI-DVI cables with Gefen cables from my Dish and Direct STB to my Lumagen and noticed a cleaner picture.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> But is the signal being converted to component video on that P board better if received digitally though HDMI rather than analog via component?



The D to A conversion on the P board certainly has its own influence on the analog video. The comparison is then between the D/A conversion modules of the Sony over that of the STB, DVD player or whatever.


There are many input specific service menu adjustments that can also have an effect on a comparison of component/hdmi quality.


BTW, the 960/955 service manual indicates that the HDMI receiver chip used on the P board is the SIL9993CTG100 which has a 10bit DAC specification.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GlenC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Cables make a difference too. I just replaced my cheap HDMI-DVI cables with Gefen cables from my Dish and Direct STB to my Lumagen and noticed a cleaner picture.



I'm generally in the school of thought that if the 1s and 0s get from point A to point B, there *can't* be any difference in video quality between two different hdmi cables. That being said, I know nothing of how garbled or undetectable bits are handled with an HDMI interface. I would guess that if an hdmi cable is of such poor quality that the data is being corrupted, that would certainly have an impact on the analog video output of the HDMI receiver. What form it would take, I haven't the foggiest idea.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, the 960/955 service manual indicates that the HDMI receiver chip used on the P board is the SIL9993CTG100 which has a 10bit DAC specification.



Hi Raoul,


Now you're losing me LOL!


thanks again for the explanations,


Joe


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi all,


Made the comparision test between HDMI and component this evening and, at least from my vantage, the HDMI picture was stronger with better punch. There was something just lacking with the component picture.


But as one member said today, it also depends upon the cable box, etc. so I do not wish to discourage anyone who is more satisified with component. For example, I found the HD-DVR box provided better picture quality than the standard HD box; when a problem developed with the DVR I had to return it and temporarily use a standard HD box -- I immediately saw a decrease in picture and could not wait to go back to DVR. So there are differences in cable boxes!


Used the INHD test patterns stored on the HD-DVR. I immediately noticed a drop in quality on the picture, brightness and color patterns, no matter how the 960's settings were adjusted. For actual video I used the DVR's rewind function to compare the same exact picture when switching between the two inputs. Also tried different picture outputs from the cable box and thought the upconversion option helped improve the component picture (whereas it doesn't with HDMI) but not enough to warrant changing inputs.


Non HD signals also seemed slightly softer but this could be attributed to not experimenting with palette settings. Increasing the sharpness or edge enhancement to compensate for this caused HD pictures to become grainy.


Will admit I have an $80 dollar HDMI cable which had to be a factor and the component cables used were not nearly as expensive but much better than those included with video equipment.


It might simply be that the difference we find in picture quality comes down to 1) one having invested in an expensive HDMI cable versus component or vice versa, 2) the quality of the box provided by the server, or 3) a combination of both.


Thanks once more to everybody who responded my question and again please do not take what I found to mean that those using component are wrong with their findings.


Please let me know what you think of my conclusions regarding possible differences.


Ciao,

Joe


----------



## Swisher

My intention is not to open up a big debate here, but isn't there some merit to the question of the quality of a cable carrying a digital signal being irrelevant? Digital is digital - it either gets through or it doesn't. I think that some people are making a lot of money charging $80+ for a cable by misleading us into believing that signal quality varies with the cable quality. There must be tests that have been done on this - anyone have any definitive info?


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Swisher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My intention is not to open up a big debate here, but isn't there some merit to the question of the quality of a cable carrying a digital signal being irrelevant? Digital is digital - it either gets through or it doesn't. I think that some people are making a lot of money charging $80+ for a cable by misleading us into believing that signal quality varies with the cable quality. There must be tests that have been done on this - anyone have any definitive info?



It is a matter of getting that signal through without any "noise". Do you want a cable that delivers a few extra 1s or 0s that shouldn't be there? Not the same, but similar to using 16ga vs 12ga speaker wire. Any cable is a freeway for the signal, you don't want any cross traffic or merging lanes. Only you can choose what is appropriate for you in dollars, quality or visually. With HDMI, you have video and sound signals in the same bundle plus HDCP/EDID handshake signals.


----------



## HonestAbe52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drkashner* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've noticed that OTA HD usually looks better directly on the 960 tuner and not through the DVR, not sure why.



The DVR is adding a layer of compression to the signal, as you can pause and record its already gone through a frame buffer, so the signal is not as pure. I bought this TV for NASACR, very high speed, colorful, lots of diagonals on banked ractetracks, horror show for any compression algorithm - looks great OTA NP. Also, my god the Fiesta Bowl and the playoffs in HD, just amazing on this television. No motion blur or artifacting at all like crappy LCD.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm generally in the school of thought that if the 1s and 0s get from point A to point B, there *can't* be any difference in video quality between two different hdmi cables. That being said, I know nothing of how garbled or undetectable bits are handled with an HDMI interface. I would guess that if an hdmi cable is of such poor quality that the data is being corrupted, that would certainly have an impact on the analog video output of the HDMI receiver. What form it would take, I haven't the foggiest idea.



Hi Raoul,


I found more expensive cables produce better results than standard. Noticed significant improvement in audio when monster-type speaker wire replaced the 16 gauge (?) I had been using. The same applied to the audio cable used for my CD changer. I do not believe, however, that the most expensive cable available (video or audio) would yield any significant improvement over ones selling for a little less and that the extra cost is indeed overkill. There was a HDMI cable of the same brand and length selling for around $120 but I purchased one going for $80. I doubt the difference would be equivalent to a $10 HDMI versus the one I settled on. But there is better quality to be found when investing a little extra in the cables to be used.


Ciao,

Joe


----------



## mr2828




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm generally in the school of thought that if the 1s and 0s get from point A to point B, there *can't* be any difference in video quality between two different hdmi cables. That being said, I know nothing of how garbled or undetectable bits are handled with an HDMI interface. I would guess that if an hdmi cable is of such poor quality that the data is being corrupted, that would certainly have an impact on the analog video output of the HDMI receiver. What form it would take, I haven't the foggiest idea.



I did some reading on this today. Turns out there is no error correction at all built into the transmission spec used by DVI/HDMI. The spec does use methods to try and reduce interference, and increase odds of proper sync and data reconstruction, but there is nothing in it to let it know when the data has become corrupted.


Here is more discussion: http://www.bluejeanscable.com/articl...icomponent.htm 


My advice however would still be to at least start out with the cheapest cable you can find, because either it will work basically perfect or you will have noticeable problems like "sparklies" when pixel data is becoming corrupted to the wrong color, or even loss of picture altogether if the two ends of the cable can't sync properly.


If you're not noticing any sparklies, then adding a $80 or $120 cable will do absolutely nothing extra. It is not possible to make the picture "sharper", "cleaner", etc if all the pixel data is already making it to the TV using a cheaper cable. It would be very obvious if you were seeing sparklies, we aren't talking about something subtle.


----------



## Dunottar

The second attempt to repair was to replace the CRT! Got it back - same exact problem. I don't think the techs are going to fix this.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr2828* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I did some reading on this today. Turns out there is no error correction at all built into the transmission spec used by DVI/HDMI. The spec does use methods to try and reduce interference, and increase odds of proper sync and data reconstruction, but there is nothing in it to let it know when the data has become corrupted.
> 
> 
> Here is more discussion: http://www.bluejeanscable.com/articl...icomponent.htm
> 
> 
> My advice however would still be to at least start out with the cheapest cable you can find, because either it will work basically perfect or you will have noticeable problems like "sparklies" when pixel data is becoming corrupted to the wrong color, or even loss of picture altogether if the two ends of the cable can't sync properly.
> 
> 
> If you're not noticing any sparklies, then adding a $80 or $120 cable will do absolutely nothing extra. It is not possible to make the picture "sharper", "cleaner", etc if all the pixel data is already making it to the TV using a cheaper cable. It would be very obvious if you were seeing sparklies, we aren't talking about something subtle.



So the advantages of more expensive HDMI cables is not better picture quality but more protection against losing sync, sparklies and interference. Makes sense. Less expensive cables are prone to breakage and signal interference. So unless I am concerned about durability I overpaid for my HDMI (nothing I can do about it now, anyway).


Having read another article on the link you provided it seems the same principles apply to component cable so it didn't matter what I used as long as they worked properly. Therefore, finding (at least with my HD DVR) that HDMI provided stronger HD images had nothing to do with using component cables that were much less expensive. Guess it's just the combination of the 960 and the box.


Thanks for the info,

Joe


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As you probably read, I didn't use expensive cables when comparing component to HDMI so would the same principles apply to component cable?



Absolutely, and far more so. Cheap cables are usually poorly shielded, and EMI and RFI often causes noise, distortion, and ringing in the image. To really see the full potential of component video you need superior shielding. I recommend component cables from Blue Jeans Cable




> Quote:
> If so, then it didn't matter what cables I used as long as they were working properly. Therefore, my finding the HDMI providing a stronger HD image had nothing to do with the component cables being less expensive.



It is not so much price, but specifications. You need a 95% copper braid shield, a 100% foil shield, and high quality connectors and contruction to see the full potential of component video. Most cables fall quite a bit short of this, and most don't list these specifications for obvious reasons.


I had a cheap pair of component video cables hooked up to my set and it looked poor compared to HDMI.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr2828* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Be more specific, what exactly of what I said don't you think is right? Or all of it?
> 
> 
> You don't think LCDs are individually controllable pixel-based displays? Well read up on active matrix LCDs, because they are. There is a refresh cycle used to gain this total control over each pixel in the display, but this is unrelated to the kind of video signaling used in analog video formats.
> 
> 
> You don't think HDMI contains a digital pixel-based representation of the video image? Read up on HDMI. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI
> 
> 
> You don't think an LCD can take that HDMI data and display it directly on its pixel matrix without having to convert it to an analog format? Here is an old Anandtech review - scroll down to page 3 where it talks about "the importance of being digital". This explains how DVI (and later HDMI) solved the quality problem of D -> A -> D conversions, and provides a direct Digital -> Digital path with no analog involved:
> 
> http://www.anandtech.com/printarticle.aspx?i=1757
> 
> 
> You don't think a pixel-based display device has to digitize an incoming analog signal into a pixel-based digital format before it can display it? Well besides the anandtech article, here is an old article from circa 1997 discussing how it's necessary to digitize RGB inputs for use on LCDs:
> 
> http://www.analog.com/en/content/0,2...5F6963,00.html
> 
> 
> Another mention of digital TVs containing analog -> digital chips for analog inputs:
> 
> http://www.electronicproducts.com/Sh...g.oct2006.html



I got the impression that you were implying that these things were the reason component looks better on the analog 960 compared to HDMI.


As far as I know, there is no reason why any conversion either from analog to digital or vice versa, that if implemented properly, will result in any significant or material loss of quality and/or clarity. I think there is a flaw with the 960s conversion process of the digital signal that is causing the artificial softening effect, and not the very technical nature of what such a conversion entails.


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Absolutely, and far more so. Cheap cables are usually poorly shielded, and EMI and RFI often causes noise, distortion, and ringing in the image. To really see the full potential of component video you need superior shielding. I recommend component cables from Blue Jeans Cable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is not so much price, but specifications. You need a 95% copper braid shield, a 100% foil shield, and high quality connectors and contruction to see the full potential of component video. Most cables fall quite a bit short of this, and most don't list these specifications for obvious reasons.
> 
> 
> I had a cheap pair of component video cables hooked up to my set and it looked poor compared to HDMI.



I make Canare RGBHV and Component cables and have always had good component video. I just recently went from cheap HDMI-DVI cables (supplied with STB) to Gefen cables and noticed an improvement.


Some STB units just perform better on one or the other output formats, doesn't really matter what cables you use in that situation.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Absolutely, and far more so. Cheap cables are usually poorly shielded, and EMI and RFI often causes noise, distortion, and ringing in the image. To really see the full potential of component video you need superior shielding. I recommend component cables from Blue Jeans Cable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is not so much price, but specifications. You need a 95% copper braid shield, a 100% foil shield, and high quality connectors and contruction to see the full potential of component video. Most cables fall quite a bit short of this, and most don't list these specifications for obvious reasons.
> 
> 
> I had a cheap pair of component video cables hooked up to my set and it looked poor compared to HDMI.



According to that article, the better component cables protect against video noise, signal interference, ghosting, etc. Did not encounter these problems with my test so the cables were fine. It was just that the HD picture lacked the punch of my HDMI feed. Forgot to mention I used the same cables connected to a DVD player and have no problems with picture quality.


Just my own perspective and again, not meant to discourage anyone from using component if that's what they prefere. As stated earlier, the cable box is probably the deciding factor more than the cable itslef.


----------



## RWetmore

In your case it sounds like the cable box is the deciding factor. According to Chad B., who is highly respected around here, the increased clarity of component can be objectively shown with test patterns, which indicates that it shouldn't be a subjective judgement. Go figure.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In your case it sounds like the cable box is the deciding factor. According to Chad B., who is highly respected around here, the increased clarity of component can be objectively shown with test patterns, which indicates that it shouldn't be a subjective judgement. Go figure.



After reading all the posts I agree the box probably is the deciding factor and the reason why this forum is split regarding HDMI and component. We subscribe to Cablevision in New York City and use a Scientific Atlantic Explorer 8300 HD-DVR and, as mentioned earlier, there definately is a stronger picture with the 8300 than the box we used before going DVR.


I also recall NOT noticing much difference between component and DVI while using that first box (when getting the 960 we had both feeds hooked up). That box only had DVI and was maybe an older unit.


Seems reasonable, because all HD tuners are not built the same.


----------



## BRY1080P

Is there any difference that you guys know of between the 34XBR960 and the 34XS955, because I can get an open boxed 34XS955 for 879.99 and am just wandering if there are any noticeable differences between the two. It sounds like a great deal to me. What do you guys think?


----------



## RWetmore

There is no difference in picture quality between the 955 and 960 - they both use the exact same Super Fine Pitch Tube. I believe the 960 has a few features the 955 does not have like picture in picture and something else.


----------



## christophersj

I believe the 955 is lacking a FireWire port as well.


-CJ


----------



## lastxbr960




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Absolutely, and far more so. Cheap cables are usually poorly shielded, and EMI and RFI often causes noise, distortion, and ringing in the image. To really see the full potential of component video you need superior shielding. I recommend component cables from Blue Jeans Cable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is not so much price, but specifications. You need a 95% copper braid shield, a 100% foil shield, and high quality connectors and contruction to see the full potential of component video. Most cables fall quite a bit short of this, and most don't list these specifications for obvious reasons.
> 
> 
> I had a cheap pair of component video cables hooked up to my set and it looked poor compared to HDMI.



I wish a 3rd party would come up with a highly shieled adapter that would let me use my own quality component cables from the XBOX360 to my Sony XBR960, instead of the very thin MS/Monster ones-or eve some extra interference







shielding that could be wrapped around the MS/Monster ones


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> After reading all the posts I agree the box probably is the deciding factor and the reason why this forum is split regarding HDMI and component. We subscribe to Cablevision in New York City and use a Scientific Atlantic Explorer 8300 HD-DVR and, as mentioned earlier, there definately is a stronger picture with the 8300 than the box we used before going DVR.
> 
> 
> I also recall NOT noticing much difference between component and DVI while using that first box (when getting the 960 we had both feeds hooked up). That box only had DVI and was maybe an older unit.
> 
> 
> Seems reasonable, because all HD tuners are not built the same.



Well, I have Cablevision too, and use the SA Explorer 4200HD box. Component is equally clearer as it is with my HD-DVD player.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well, I have Cablevision too, and use the SA Explorer 4200HD box. Component is equally clearer as it is with my HD-DVD player.



Glad to know my recollection was accurate about not noticing much difference between the two when using the HD4200. Of course, the HD4200 yielded a beautiful picture but we twice exchanged it for a HD8300-DVR and both times immediately noticed better HD quality using the same 960 settings as before.


I've also noticed many in the forum prefer OTA over cable and/or satellite so the type of tuner provided by the cable company and how it is set is very important. Which picture output do you use on the SA? We use auto-HDMI which allows the 960 to do the upconversion rather than the cable box (the Sony yields better results).


BTW - we went back to a HD4200 because the copy protection device on a newly purchased DVD recorder kicked in and a cablevision representative thought this was due to copies having already been made on the DVR's hard drive. It still occured on the HD4200 and we eventually discovered there was a copy protection defect in Toshiba DVD recorders so we exchanged it for a Panasonic (no copy protection problems at all).


Thanks for your thoughts.

Joe


----------



## PeterTHX




> Quote:
> There is no difference in picture quality between the 955 and 960 - they both use the exact same Super Fine Pitch Tube. I believe the 960 has a few features the 955 does not have like picture in picture and something else.



Actually I believe this is incorrect.


As I recall, the XS line used the same Super Fine Pitch tube that the previous XBR910 used, and the 960 was a "SF gen 2". Side by side at the retailer with identical settings and sources reveal an overall brighter, sharper (but not "fake") image with the 960 over the 955. Sony's own literature boasted of a 28% improvement over the previous 910 SFP tube.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PeterTHX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Actually I believe this is incorrect.
> 
> 
> As I recall, the XS line used the same Super Fine Pitch tube that the previous XBR910 used, and the 960 was a "SF gen 2". Side by side at the retailer with identical settings and sources reveal an overall brighter, sharper (but not "fake") image with the 960 over the 955. Sony's own literature boasted of a 28% improvement over the previous 910 SFP tube.



According to the service manual, the 34XS955 and 34XBR960 CRTs are the same part number:


"KD-34XS955 CRT: 8-735-218-05 CRT 36RDE(DDP) W86LXX015X"

"KD-34XBR960 CRT: 8-735-218-05 CRT 36RDE(DDP) W86LXX015X"


I don't have data for the XBR910.


----------



## Tkbalt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BRY1080P* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there any difference that you guys know of between the 34XBR960 and the 34XS955, because I can get an open boxed 34XS955 for 879.99 and am just wandering if there are any noticeable differences between the two. It sounds like a great deal to me. What do you guys think?



I agree - sounds like a great deal.


----------



## PeterTHX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> According to the service manual, the 34XS955 and 34XBR960 CRTs are the same part number:
> 
> 
> "KD-34XS955 CRT: 8-735-218-05 CRT 36RDE(DDP) W86LXX015X"
> 
> "KD-34XBR960 CRT: 8-735-218-05 CRT 36RDE(DDP) W86LXX015X"
> 
> 
> I don't have data for the XBR910.



Oh.










Perhaps the differences in picture were due then to the DRC processor "engines" inside. It did look better, and I adjusted both.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PeterTHX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Oh.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perhaps the differences in picture were due then to the DRC processor "engines" inside. It did look better, and I adjusted both.



If the common source was 480i, then the different DRC chips (DRC-MFV1 and DRC-MF) and their settings could have been a factor. If the common source was not 480i, then the DRC would have no effect and the differences seen must have been due to something else uncommon.


----------



## Oliver Deplace




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PeterTHX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Oh.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perhaps the differences in picture were due then to the DRC processor "engines" inside. It did look better, and I adjusted both.



Or their user settings didn't correlate on an absolute level.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Glad to know my recollection was accurate about not noticing much difference between the two when using the HD4200. Of course, the HD4200 yielded a beautiful picture but we twice exchanged it for a HD8300-DVR and both times immediately noticed better HD quality using the same 960 settings as before.
> 
> 
> I've also noticed many in the forum prefer OTA over cable and/or satellite so the type of tuner provided by the cable company and how it is set is very important. Which picture output do you use on the SA? We use auto-HDMI which allows the 960 to do the upconversion rather than the cable box (the Sony yields better results).
> 
> 
> BTW - we went back to a HD4200 because the copy protection device on a newly purchased DVD recorder kicked in and a cablevision representative thought this was due to copies having already been made on the DVR's hard drive. It still occured on the HD4200 and we eventually discovered there was a copy protection defect in Toshiba DVD recorders so we exchanged it for a Panasonic (no copy protection problems at all).
> 
> 
> Thanks for your thoughts.
> 
> Joe



To follow up on my earlier post someone in the cablevision ny forum agreed they noticed improved HD picture quality switching from the 4200 (DVI only) to 4250 (w/HDMI). Since I got an improved HDMI picture but no similiar improvement using component could some boxes be geared more toward HDMI and others toward component?


----------



## G-Bull




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> To follow up on my earlier post someone in the cablevision ny forum agreed they noticed improved HD picture quality switching from the 4200 (DVI only) to 4250 (w/HDMI). Since I got an improved HDMI picture but no similiar improvement using component could some boxes be geared more toward HDMI and others toward component?



Certainly. The cable box takes the digital HD signal from the cable company, then converts that digital signal to an analog signal that it outputs to your TV via component. So whenever you're using an analog component connection from a digital device (such as DVD player or digital cable or xbox 360 or whatever), the picture quality depends entirely on that device's ability to handle the digital-to-analog conversion.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *G-Bull* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Certainly. The cable box takes the digital HD signal from the cable company, then converts that digital signal to an analog signal that it outputs to your TV via component. So whenever you're using an analog component connection from a digital device (such as DVD player or digital cable or xbox 360 or whatever), the picture quality depends entirely on that device's ability to handle the digital-to-analog conversion.



Seems this puts an end to the HDMI vs. Component debate.


----------



## G-Bull




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Seems this puts an end to the HDMI vs. Component debate.



Sort of. It just puts more of an emphasis on "it depends" as the answer.


But there's multiple factors why one might be better than the other. First is the D/A conversion that I mentioned above. But for these Sony CRTs, since I understand they're analog devices themselves, when you give it a digital HDMI signal the TV does a D/A conversion. So "it depends" on which does the better D/A conversion - the TV or the device.


But on top of that, a HDMI cable will carry a digital signal farther and with less data loss than would occur with an analog component cable. So even if you have a device that looks better on component cables using high-quality, short cables, you might find that HDMI looks better from that same device if you have to use longer cables to go from your device to your display.


"It depends."


If we were talking about LCD TVs, I'd say always go with HDMI, hands down. Because that's all digital all the way from source to final display. But with a CRT it's a different story, because somewhere along the way, something has to convert from digital to analog.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *G-Bull* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sort of. It just puts more of an emphasis on "it depends" as the answer.
> 
> 
> But there's multiple factors why one might be better than the other. First is the D/A conversion that I mentioned above. But for these Sony CRTs, since I understand they're analog devices themselves, when you give it a digital HDMI signal the TV does a D/A conversion. So "it depends" on which does the better D/A conversion - the TV or the device.
> 
> 
> But on top of that, a HDMI cable will carry a digital signal farther and with less data loss than would occur with an analog component cable. So even if you have a device that looks better on component cables using high-quality, short cables, you might find that HDMI looks better from that same device if you have to use longer cables to go from your device to your display.
> 
> 
> "It depends."
> 
> 
> If we were talking about LCD TVs, I'd say always go with HDMI, hands down. Because that's all digital all the way from source to final display. But with a CRT it's a different story, because somewhere along the way, something has to convert from digital to analog.



With distance, dependable cables, etc. being equal this means owners of the 960 should experiment with both - there is no one answer. Hence the debate switches from HDMI vs. component to which one works better with one's particular cable/satellite box or OTA antenna.


So, anybody using the SA HD8300 find component equal or better than HDMI?


----------



## PNeski

How can I do something about Overscan,without paying a lot of money,Can I fix it my self?

Peter


----------



## Tkbalt

New in Box 960n just delivered - had been sitting in warehouse at local AV store since May waiting for customer who ordered it to show. I guess 7 months is long enough to wait - so they sold it to me. November 05 built date.


PQ looks pretty good out of the box (once off torch mode). I look forward to benefiting from your collective wisdom documented in this thread as I set this thing up.


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PNeski* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How can I do something about Overscan,without paying a lot of money,Can I fix it my self?
> 
> Peter




See post #3336 of this thread. DSperber does an excellent job of walking you through it. Some of the links are archived, so you'll have to click on the 01/05-06/06 archive link if you hit a dead end.


----------



## Tkbalt

Thanks - Links are in archive - will search for post after I get a little more comfortable with service codes.


I have 5% overscan according to DVE. What are typical results after correction? DVE talks about getting to 2.5% Is that typical - our can you get closer to 0% overscan.


Just put the set through a quick DVE setup and the PQ is much improved over out of the box setup. I was nervous about getting this set, as had been used to Pio Plasma. The HD PQ is wonderful.


----------



## Oliver Deplace




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tkbalt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks - Links are in archive - will search for post after I get a little more comfortable with service codes.
> 
> 
> I have 5% overscan according to DVE. What are typical results after correction? DVE talks about getting to 2.5% Is that typical - our can you get closer to 0% overscan.
> 
> 
> Just put the set through a quick DVE setup and the PQ is much improved over out of the box setup. I was nervous about getting this set, as had been used to Pio Plasma. The HD PQ is wonderful.



If you have 5% all around and you're not seeing any obvious cropping, I wouldn't bother.


----------



## Tkbalt

Yep - it is 5% all around - actually can see the line at 5%, so suspect it is just under.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Saw that the HD test patterns were back on INDH this Sunday at 7:00 AM EST. For those new to this forum I strongly suggest using these since my HD settings are slightly different from ones achieved through DVD (those are not based on a HD signal but rather the particular 480i/480p output of your DVD player).


INHD provides tests for picture, brightness, color and overscan with approximately two minutes set aside to make each adjustment. If possible, retain them on the hard drive of your HD DVR since INHD had not broadcast them for a while.


Hope this is helpful,

Joe


----------



## danedrow

Hey, a quick question for the experts on here. I have a 3yr old 34xbr-960 and I'm thinking about getting the new oppo 981hd to replace my old DVD player, etc. Now I know the big deal with the oppo is the Faroudja chip and all, but a quick Google search seems to indicate that my 960 has a Faroudja chip in it already. So the obvious question is, what would be better, buy a decent DVD player, use its 480p output and let my TV do the upconversion to 1080i, or get the oppo and use its 1080i output over HDMI?


Appreciate your opinions


----------



## 1000 Umbrellas

Hey guys, it appears B+H Photo has some KD-34XBR960N in stock for a paultry sum if you ask me. Check it out


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *danedrow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey, a quick question for the experts on here. I have a 3yr old 34xbr-960 and I'm thinking about getting the new oppo 981hd to replace my old DVD player, etc. Now I know the big deal with the oppo is the Faroudja chip and all, but a quick Google search seems to indicate that my 960 has a Faroudja chip in it already. So the obvious question is, what would be better, buy a decent DVD player, use its 480p output and let my TV do the upconversion to 1080i, or get the oppo and use its 1080i output over HDMI?
> 
> 
> Appreciate your opinions



No set can upconvert a progressive scan signal - only interlaced.


Do you have the output of your current player set to 480P? If so, try setting it to 480I before purchasing a new one. I have a Panasonic DVD Recorder and setting its output to 480I, allowing the 960 to do the upconverting, is better than a straight 480P.


----------



## mr2828

Why not consider getting a high-def player instead? I picked up both a PS3 and Xbox360+HD DVD add-on. The PS3 is supposedly getting a software update soon that will let it upconvert SD DVDs, but for now it already looks better than my old DVD player.


----------



## danedrow

because I don't have a grand to drop on a HD model







Plus why get a HD model when my TV only displays 1080i? I'm keeping the 960 until broadcast goes to 1080p or something forces me to get rid of it.


----------



## DJF(NJ)




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *danedrow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> because I don't have a grand to drop on a HD model
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plus why get a HD model when my TV only displays 1080i? I'm keeping the 960 until broadcast goes to 1080p or something forces me to get rid of it.



You didnt indicate your format preference, but Amazon has some Toshiba A2's and A1s for $360 and $460 respectively. Or get a PS3 for $499 and play BRD's. Sound & Vision magazine claimed that the PQ was equal to the higher priced Sammy and Panasonic players. And it has built-in decoding for True HD and DTS-HD, whereas the others dont.


I have the Toshiba XA1 connected to my XBR 960(calibrated by Chad B) and the visuals are amazing, despite "only" being 1080i!


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *danedrow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> .......Now I know the big deal with the oppo is the Faroudja chip and all, but a quick Google search seems to indicate that my 960 has a Faroudja chip in it already......



I don't believe this is true. The XBR960 uses a Sony designed Digital Reality Creation (DRC-MFV1) CXD-2097 chip for upscaling 480i to display resolutions. DRC-Interlaced(960i/1080i), Progressive(480p/540p), and Cinemotion(960i/1080i with 3:2 pulldown) .



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *danedrow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ......So the obvious question is, what would be better, buy a decent DVD player, use its 480p output and let my TV do the upconversion to 1080i, or get the oppo and use its 1080i output over HDMI?
> 
> 
> Appreciate your opinions



I would recommend using a decent DVD player set to 480i output and let the DRC-MFV1 in your XBR960 take care of upscaling.


----------



## Chorgey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *danedrow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey, a quick question for the experts on here. I have a 3yr old 34xbr-960 and I'm thinking about getting the new oppo 981hd to replace my old DVD player, etc. Now I know the big deal with the oppo is the Faroudja chip and all, but a quick Google search seems to indicate that my 960 has a Faroudja chip in it already. So the obvious question is, what would be better, buy a decent DVD player, use its 480p output and let my TV do the upconversion to 1080i, or get the oppo and use its 1080i output over HDMI?
> 
> 
> Appreciate your opinions



I have an OPPO 971 connected to my XBR960 via DVI/HDMI cable and have it set to 1080i, if I'm not mistaken, my callibrator also suggested that I set the player to 1080i.


Here is a quick FAQ from the manufacturer's site:

Q: Which DVI setting should I select for my display for best picture quality? Does the 1080i via DVI always give me the highest picture quality?

A: We recommend that you select the closest resolution that is, ideally, a 1:1 mapping to the native pixel count or scan rate supported by your video display device. For most ED Plasma, 480P gives the best quality. For HD Plasma or typical consumer LCD projector such as Sanyo Z2, Marantz and other Mustang HD2 DLP units, 1280 x 720 (720P) works best. *Some rear projection or CRT HDTVs support native 1920 x 1080i, and for these units, select the 1080i output mode.*


I was skeptical of the upconverted dvd player to my XBR960 but am very happy with the great picture!


----------



## epicbloodline




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *1000 Umbrellas* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey guys, it appears B+H Photo has some KD-34XBR960N in stock for a paultry sum if you ask me. Check it out



i want one..


----------



## JayPSU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *epicbloodline* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i want one..



I want one too, anyone know who might be selling them still. I looked at the B&H site and didn't see any for sale.


----------



## RWetmore

Your best bet is to periodically check ebay, and call all your local independent dealers to see if they might still have one.


----------



## ckhirnigs113

Well I posted earlier about some awful color blotches on my 960, and thanks to this forum I was able to fix most of the problem with the LANDING settings in the service menu. The problem is that I can't get rid of the discoloration completely in one area of the screen. The top right corner still has some visual color blotching.


For those of you well-versed in the service menu, is there anything else that I can do to get rid of this problem? The LT and LB settings in my service menu are already at 0 out of 255, so I can't adjust those anymore. I am really stumped on what to try now. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, CK


----------



## Tkbalt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JayPSU* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I want one too, anyone know who might be selling them still. I looked at the B&H site and didn't see any for sale.



They are out there - I found a brand new one about 2 weeks ago sitting in a warehouse at one of the local AV stores in Indianapolis.


I was in a debate over getting the 960 or looking at another Plasma. I could not be more pleased with my decision to go with the 960. The HD picture (although smaller) rivals my Pioneer Elite plasma - and SD on the 960 is much better than my Plasma.


----------



## twentywontowin

Hi everyone, I'm a long time lurker and a first time poster, due to me having a problem with my year old XBR960N.


I've tried to search to see what my problem is, but a lot of the terms are unfamiliar with me, so maybe someone can point me in the right direction.


I noticed an unusual discoloration on the screen. It is about three inches tall and an inch wide, and is on the extreme left side of the screen, about a quarter of the way up from the bottom. I noticed it while loading an HD DVD on my XBOX 360 and saw it. It shows up as a magenta color when a solid blue image is being displayed.


I'm pretty sure this is something that can be fixed using the Service Menu and I have begun to read the thread, but like I said a lot of the technical terms are new to me.


If anyone can give me an idea of what the problem would be and how to correct it, I would be very thankful.


-Mark


----------



## ckhirnigs113

twentywontowin, If you look at my post a few before yours you will see that I said you can correct this problem with the LANDING settings in the service menu. Go to the setting "LB" which referrs to the Left-Bottom section of the screen. Lower the value until the discoloration is removed from the screen then save your settings (with Mute + Enter). I did this and got most of my discoloration taken care of, but there is still a little at the top left of my screen.


If anyone has anything else to do to get rid of this, please let me know. Thanks, CK


----------



## JayPSU

Why did Sony have to stop making this wonderful tv? I've been keeping my eye open for it and I've pretty much resigned myself to the fact that if I get it, it'll be used. If anyone from Ohio is ever going to sell theirs, or if you ever see it for sale in Ohio, PLEASE let me know! And of course if someone sees it for sale somewhere where it can be shipped to me, PLEASE let me know. I took a look at the 970 this weekend thinking I might buy it, but it just doesn't compare to the 960, so I'm going to hold out some hope!


----------



## 1000 Umbrellas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *1000 Umbrellas* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey guys, it appears B+H Photo has some KD-34XBR960N in stock for a paultry sum if you ask me. Check it out



The thought of finding and buying a 960N for less than 1K was and still is a pipe dream. Geez, talk about getting ones hopes crushed. I ordered one of these 'IN STOCK' 960's from BHPhoto last week for $999, thinking they must have dug up some new old stock from their warehouse. Sadly no.







I got the order cancellation this morning from them. They claim 'system error' and apologized for the mistake and will refund account. I can't be to bummed since I already own one, albeit an open box set I found two weeks ago at cc but still...


----------



## ckhirnigs113

You can still get these tvs from Sony Outlet stores if you call around. It will be refurbished, but you can get an extended warranty for practically nothing. So don't give up quite yet.


----------



## Gamedude

I'm selling an XBR 910 if anyone is interested. AFAIK the differences between the 910 and 960 are Cablecard and HDMI instead of the DVI input on the 910.

http://newyork.craigslist.org/que/ele/267660538.html


----------



## Joseph Dubin
















Hi all,


A small greenish/blue discoloration appeared in the lower left corner of my 960 last night. Fortunately, the de-gausing mechanism worked for the blotch completely disappeared upon turning the set off and on again. I checked it twice, leaving the set on for 5 and then 15 minutes. Was clear against all types of backgrounds. My wife also said the corner was clear again this morning.


I know there have been numerous posts by those experiencing problems with color distoration. Some were caused by unshielded magnetic speakers and remedied by moving them further away. However, I recall others where the problem persisted and Sony service was required.


Has anybody experienced discoloration which simply disappeared once the set was turned off and then on again? I tend to think this can sometimes occur and be corrected by the Sony's automatic degausing but, of course, am also concerned this could be a sign of a developing problem.


Glad I was once told by a Sony Service Represenative to have the set plugged directly into a wall socket and not through a surge protector to allow enough initial power to allow the degauser to work properly.










Thanks as always,

Joe


----------



## bigbluecheese

What's the best color temp to use for each input? DVDs, games, cable box...


And should you calibrate (DVE) your color settings around the Neutral or Warm setting?


Thanks.


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Glad I was once told by a Sony Service Represenative to have the set plugged directly into a wall socket and not through a surge protector to allow enough initial power to allow the degauser to work properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks as always,
> 
> Joe



Hmm thats interesting , mine is plugged into a surge protector and I do get a random blotch on the right edge of the screen (pretty often actually) but If I turn the TV off and on it usualy goes away completely.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hmm thats interesting , mine is plugged into a surge protector and I do get a random blotch on the right edge of the screen (pretty often actually) but If I turn the TV off and on it usualy goes away completely.



This was the first blotch I ever noticed since getting the set in August, 2005.


Shortly after receiving the set I was getting no picture or sound and contacted Sony. Was instructed to unplug the set. When told to plug it back in I mentioned it was back in the surge protector. That's when I was told it should instead be plugged directly into the wall (even though the instruction manual suggested use of a surge protector) since surge protectors do not release 100% electricity when turning the power on. There has been debate about the pros and cons of surge protectors quite often in this forum


- Joe


----------



## SurfingMatt27




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigbluecheese* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What's the best color temp to use for each input? DVDs, games, cable box...
> 
> 
> And should you calibrate (DVE) your color settings around the Neutral or Warm setting?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



When i first got my sony about 3 years ago i started to use "Cool" then after a while switched to "Neutral" since "Cool" was a bit too blue after a while of using that setting.


Neutral seems to be the most balanced of the 2,so i would use that to calibrate your color with.


Here are some service menu settings to correct the colors to look more accurate.


RYR:14

RYB:14

GYR:6

GYB:4


----------



## mking2673

I just thought that I could mention that the BB in Crystal Lake IL has 2 of these open box (one has been on open box display since August). There are unwilling to drop below $1100 though.


----------



## twentywontowin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mking2673* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just thought that I could mention that the BB in Crystal Lake IL has 2 of these open box (one has been on open box display since August). There are unwilling to drop below $1100 though.



That is a joke considering I paid $1400 at Abt for a brand new 960N in March 2006.


They will budge on the price eventually I bet.


----------



## mking2673

I have talked to two managers and neither will budge. They will however offer a $150 gift card when you pay $1100. They say it has something to do with how far below cost they can go.

I have only seen one of them turned on (it has been on for who know how many months) and it has poor geometry and a color blob on the left side. Of course it would still be under warranty.


Nice overall picture though. It stands head and shoulders above any other display.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mking2673* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have talked to two managers and neither will budge. They will however offer a $150 gift card when you pay $1100. They say it has something to do with how far below cost they can go.
> 
> I have only seen one of them turned on (it has been on for who know how many months) and it has poor geometry and a color blob on the left side. Of course it would still be under warranty.
> 
> 
> Nice overall picture though. It stands head and shoulders above any other display.



Even for $950 the asking price is way too much with those problems already apparent. Who knows how long it's been on and at what settings? The tube's performance deteriates if the contrast and brightness settings are set too high (usually the case with floor models) so even if the picture looks great, it might not be as good as it could be.


----------



## mking2673

I will have to ask specifically about the second unit. It just showed up in the past week or so which makes me think that it might be a return. The may have a different policy on discounting returned tvs than floor models.


----------



## jamiebd

Hey all,


I've had my set since 11/22/05 and it's still under warranty and I was having some issues with the geometry and registration. Mainly, I'm seeing some bowing of the picture on the right hand side of the screen. I called sony service and the sent a guy out. He looked at it and said, ya, that's what these set look like. can't get it much better the that. Which I find hard to believe, since I know it wasn't this bad to begin with.


I've posted some photos of what it currently looks like at a site that i can't link to, since i don.'t have enough posts here yet. If some folks would email me and i'll provide a link and then take a look at these and let me know what they think, I'd appreciate it. sorry for the extra work



Thanks


Jamie


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Jamie,


I've had my set a few months more than you and have not noticed any bowing when watching normal 16x9 sources like HD and DVD so can attest it's not supposed to be that way. The only notice a very slight bowing in the stretch mode (4x3 stretched to 16x9) which is proportionatly the same in all four corners.


Many in the forum have experienced problems with bowing that were resolved (I think one member even got a replacement, but could be wrong). Suggest you again contact Sony to inform them what this serviceman said - am sure they will agree bowing is not normal for the 960 and will have another service representative come to resolve it.


----------



## jamiebd

Joe,


Thanks for taking the time to reply. I did call Sony and explained to them what the service tech told me. They gave me the name of another company, which I called. This place told me that they have never been able to get this set right on this set. But offered to come and bring back to his shop and he said he might be able to get it better, but never perfect. He didn't sound very optimistic. So, I thanked him for his time, but, no thanks.


I then called where I purchased the set from, and they are going to send out a tech next Saturday, and see if they can do any better. I sure hope so. This set has definitely gotten worse in this regard since I purchased it.


thanks again


Jamie


----------



## RWetmore

What kind of bowing is it? Horizontal or Vertical lines? As mentioned previously, the vertical line geometry can be finely adjusted in the service menu rather easily. Also, geometry should always be adjusted where the TV will be, not in a shop. Just having the TV face a different direction can change the geometry. Doesn't sound to me like the tech you spoke with is too swift - I'd find another.


----------



## jamiebd

I'm seeing bowing on both the horizontal and vertical. Also seeing some pretty good convergence issues between red, blue and green.


And I've been pretty shocked with the quality of the techs that Sony has put me in contact with. The first guy that came out had an old Leader Pattern generator hooked up to video 2 with the picture stretched to make the adjustments. Seems like a pretty porr way to make cirtical adjustments.


----------



## jamiebd

Here's a link to a picture that show's what I'm seeing. This is showing more of the registration then the bowing. The tech that worked on the set yesterday reduced the bowing, but now the registration is worse.

http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne...7816001&size=l 



Am I being to picky or is this what I should expect?? Again, It wasn't like this when I first got the set.



Jamie


----------



## RWetmore

THat's not too bad, but it can probably be improved . A skilled tech should be able to make adjustments in the service menu as well as place magnets on the back of the set to touch up the horizonal lines.


BTW, any tech that is using video 2 is probably clueless - at the very least he doesn't have the proper equipment necessary to work on an HD set.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jamiebd* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here's a link to a picture that show's what I'm seeing. This is showing more of the registration then the bowing. The tech that worked on the set yesterday reduced the bowing, but now the registration is worse.
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne...7816001&size=l
> 
> 
> 
> Am I being to picky or is this what I should expect?? Again, It wasn't like this when I first got the set.
> 
> 
> 
> Jamie



No Jamie, you're not all being picky for I would feel the same way if this suddenly happened to me. I have on DVR the INHD test patterns including the convergence graph and it is not like that but fortunately, the bowing is limited to just the extreme corners and not further down the sides. Agree with the other members that a good technician will have the ability to straighten it out without worsening the problem with registration.


Know it is easier for me to say but hang in there.


Joe


----------



## kappykirk

Hi everyone,


I was just able to purchase an out-of-box XBR960 from "Trading Circuit", the CC liquidators, off of eBay for $680 - not too shabby. It appears to have been a demo unit. I'm very pleased with the set so far, except for one issue: with certain predominantly white images (such as an overexposed sky, or a car commercial with a white background), there is very noticeable flicker in the image. Only the white part is badly flickering; the rest of the image seems more stable. But then, on other shots with a similar amount of white in the image, the picture is completely stable. I know CRTs often suffer from image warping with bright images, but I've never seen this before. It reminds me of the flickering you see when a CRT computer monitor is driven past its refresh range...


Is this normal for this set? Does anyone know what this could be caused by? Could there be a Service Menu option that might fix this? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'd hate to have to take back this set (if I even can) for an issue that could be correctable. Thanks!


----------



## germ79

I have an xbr960 and I LOVE it. Just out of curiousity, has anyone here compared the picture quality of their [email protected] to one of the new 1080p plasma or lcd tv's? I've been to the store and have seen some TV's running in 1080p and they do look really clear. I'm still not sure, however, if it necessarily looks better than my 960. Anyone compare them side by side by chance?


Thanks!


Jeremy


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *germ79* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have an xbr960 and I LOVE it. Just out of curiousity, has anyone here compared the picture quality of their [email protected] to one of the new 1080p plasma or lcd tv's? I've been to the store and have seen some TV's running in 1080p and they do look really clear. I'm still not sure, however, if it necessarily looks better than my 960. Anyone compare them side by side by chance?
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Jeremy



Jeremy, I have the same question, actually. But I do have a few thoughts on it:


1) Broadcasters are not transmitting 1080p. And I don't know how long it will be until they do--if ever. So those of us with 960's aren't missing out on any broadcast resolution so far. I believe it's the same for cable and satellite.

2) The next TV I buy will definitely be 1080p.

3) It will be a while before I'll buy Blu-Ray or HD DVD.


Bottom-line, I don't feel I'm missing anything so far "limiting" myself to my 960.


Mark


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BTV Mark* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Jeremy, I have the same question, actually. But I do have a few thoughts on it:
> 
> 
> 1) Broadcasters are not transmitting 1080p. And I don't know how long it will be until they do--if ever. So those of us with 960's aren't missing out on any broadcast resolution so far. I believe it's the same for cable and satellite.
> 
> 2) The next TV I buy will definitely be 1080p.
> 
> 3) It will be a while before I'll buy Blu-Ray or HD DVD.
> 
> 
> Bottom-line, I don't feel I'm missing anything so far "limiting" myself to my 960.
> 
> 
> Mark



Hi Mark,















Agree with you. While prices have dropped considerably and larger screen plasmas and LCDs are actually less expensive from what we paid for our 960's, there are still some drawbacks that we tend to forget.


For example, I recently saw a DVD played on a 37 inch LCD with what seemed to be accurate settings for contrast, color and brightness. The picture was smooth, pleasing with rich blacks, but after a few minutes I was reminded that:


1) There was no depth to the picture (everything was on top of each other),


2) Flesh tones were natural but there seemed to be less diversity of color all around,


3) At times I saw a slight, white outline around larger objects, and


4) While crystal sharp, little details were missing like those five o'clock shadows on actors which one can't help noticing on the 960.


I think we all ask ourselves would we still go for a 960 (if still manufactured today) or a bigger flat screen costing a few hundred dollars less. I still think the Sony 960 is regarded as the reference set and if I get any doubts, I simply remind myself of what I noted above.


Also, because it's 26 inches deep, the 960 is closer to us than flat screens by about two feet. With seating positions remaining the same flat screens hung on the wall would be two feet further away; so the further distance would make a 37 inch picture looks no bigger than the 960 at 34 inches.


I think the bottom line is that while I recently saw a beautiful picture, by owning a 960 I wasn't awed by it either. Glad I don't have to worry about deciding what to buy today because one can be fooled by screen size.


Just my take,


Joe


----------



## neo7777

Hey guys, I to am an owner of a xbr960 and love it. I bought it about a year ago at Best Buy, it was a demo model. I have one slight problem with it though and am looking for suggestions. During the day when the light hits the tv screen, the screen has huge blotchy places on it. I am pretty sure the anti glare film on the screen is the problem. When it is dark in the room the picture is great with no noticible blotchy areas. The tv is great during the night but distracting during the day, especialy during dark scenes. Any Suggestions?


----------



## kappykirk

Well, neo7777, elsewhere in this forum it's mentioned that on the 960 (not the 960N), one can actually peel the anti-reflective layer right off. You have to take the front bezel off to do it properly. Some claim it's an enhancement, giving an overall brighter picture. I've got the same problem on mine, to some degree, but I'm a little hesitant to make a permanent change like that to my beloved set.


----------



## RWetmore

I've been thinking of removing the antiglare coating on mine too. I'm hesitant though as I don't want to screw it up somehow. I know some people have done it successfully with goof off.


----------



## G-Bull

Certainly I could be mistaken (it has happened before...) but I've always thought that the dark coating on Sony Trinitrons was not there for its anti-glare/anti-reflective properties, but was there to darken the image to provide that inky black that we all love so much.


Won't removing the dark screen coating reduce the TV's ability to show the darkest possible black? Won't it skew the brightness gamma curve as well?


----------



## Waterbug

no. its the opposite. the anti-reflective coating does reduce glare but at the cost of absorb light from entering the screen and also light coming out of the tv screen, hence reducing picture brightness. So, its better to remove the coating to get better brightness.


But of course, removing the anti reflective coating is tricky and even i haven't dare do it.


----------



## rtype

Is it possible to completely rename the input names available? (E.g., GAME and BETA are in the available list of names--is there a way I can update the software to have names of my choosing like PS3 and HD-DVD)?


Also, if anyone has any advice about moving these things (other than "don't"), I could use it.


----------



## theroys88

The set is a discontinued set and any hopes of firmware updates are nill. As far as naming the inputs, you have only the choices that are in the menu. Sorry.


----------



## wbrett

Bummer.


The really big bummer though is that almost all of the twin-view functionality is going to go right in the toilet before too much longer.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wbrett* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bummer.
> 
> 
> The really big bummer though is that almost all of the twin-view functionality is going to go right in the toilet before too much longer.



For those who don't know what this means, it's because the twin-view depends on analog signals. When over-the-air analog disappears two years from now, there won't be analog signals available, so we'll lose the twin-view features.


However, I'm cable and satellite ignorant. (I use over-the-air, and I'm very happy with the quality of the signals I get.) Do cable/satellite tuners provide analog outputs? If so, then our sets will continue to be able to provide twin-view functionality. Any comments?


Mark


----------



## Freeheeldude

So after my 960 died a quick death (just at the edge of warranty), and a couple of service calls, it looks like Sony is going to replace it. Now I haven't talked to the Sony rep yet, but *if* I cannot get another 960, what would you folks recommend as a quality-appropriate replacement from Sony's current line-up?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Freeheeldude* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So after my 960 died a quick death (just at the edge of warranty), and a couple of service calls, it looks like Sony is going to replace it. Now I haven't talked to the Sony rep yet, but *if* I cannot get another 960, what would you folks recommend as a quality-appropriate replacement from Sony's current line-up?



Go with one of the SXRD sets. These are fixed-pixel large screens that once adjusted (i.e. taken out of VIVID mode and put into PRO, where you can now adjust it like you can adjust the XBR960) have the appearance of a CRT! It's actually remarkable... fantastic brightness, color, and contrast, and ZERO geometry anomalies and problems. Does not look like an LCD or plasma. It looks like a CRT.


But it does not come in 34" size. Minimum size is 42", all the way up to 70".


Only downside is a somewhat narrow "viewing angle", which is not 180 degrees like a CRT, or so-called 170 degrees like a Sharp Aquos. It's more like 60 degrees, which is its only current downside. But if you plan to sit in front of the set, or on a couch in front of the set across the room, this will not be a problem at all. And again, the picture is SIMPLY STUNNING!!! Think big-screen XBR960, but better!


Depending on your budget, and the desired screen sizes, if you want something that will make you happy like the XBR960 and can't spend a fortune, you should go with the KDS-50A2000 in 42", KDS-50A2020 in 50", KDS-55A2020 in 55", KDS-60A2020 in 60". If you want true top-of-the-line and you can afford a 60" or 70" XBR, go with the KDS-R60XBR2 in 60" or KDS-R70XBR2 in 70". Avoid the less expensive E-series models.


All models are available signficantly discounted from online etailers. Go to a local store that shows everything available and see for yourself. I feel them to be STUNNING.


The non-XBR models have speakers under the screen. The XBR models have "wings" where the speakers live. The sound from the XBR models is EXCELLENT. I have not heard the sound from the A-series, but I'm guessing it's not as good. Of course if you're going to use outboard sound through your receiver it doesn't matter.


----------



## RWetmore

SXRD sets are not a fixed pixel displays; they're projection - big difference.


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> SXRD sets are not a fixed pixel displays; they're projection - big difference.



You didn't mean this did you? The new SXRD has three 1920 pixel x 1080 pixel chips, it will only display 1920x1080 >>>>> fixed pixel. The only display that is not fixed pixel is CRT.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GlenC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You didn't mean this did you? The new SXRD has three 1920 pixel x 1080 pixel chips, it will only display 1920x1080 >>>>> fixed pixel. The only display that is not fixed pixel is CRT.



To me, a fixed pixel display means you view the pixels directly resulting in perfect focus and perfect geometry.


I understand that SXRD is fixed pixel technology if that's what you mean.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> To me, a fixed pixel display means you view the pixels directly resulting in perfect focus and perfect geometry.
> 
> 
> I understand that SXRD is fixed pixel technology if that's what you mean.



Each specific pixel in the digital video datastream is 1:1 mapped to a corresponding specific single pixel on the screen (no matter that it's rear projection). There's no way it can go anywhere else but exactly to one single pixel. SXRD is technically a member of the LCD family, but looks distinctly more like a CRT in its onscreen image characteristics.


It is literally a 100% digital display.


There is no analog electron gun spraying at phosphors on the glass to excite them into glowing, subject to curvature problems, angle of spray problems, geometry problems, phosphor decay/ghosting problems, magnetic field influence problems, etc... all of which are analog-caused.


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> To me, a fixed pixel display means you view the pixels directly resulting in perfect focus and perfect geometry.
> 
> 
> I understand that SXRD is fixed pixel technology if that's what you mean.



If you look close enough, you will see each pixel, it is the fact that a LCoS based chip has a 93% fill factor, that the "screen door" is harder to see. Now there are two distinct issues here. Projection, fixed pixel (DLP, LCD & LCoS), front or rear, overlay RGB to display a white pixel. With a plasma, lcd flat panel and DV CRT, you are looking at red, green and blue cells individually. Due to their close proximity, the eye sees them as white.


A display is either fixed-pixel or not, no in between.


----------



## Freeheeldude

Thanks for the info on the SXRD's. The only recent post I've found so far regarding Sony offering a replacement for a XBR960 was one gent who said they only offered "replacement" value (not original value), and it was a credit at Sonystyle website. Anyone remember any other postings regarding Sony's "offers" for replacement sets?


I am **SO** dissappointed this happened... I'm a video editor, and much of my work is still standard def - I specifically got the XBR960 for it's superior display of SD signals (as well as HD of course) - two years ago I couldn't find any digital display that worked as well as a CRT for these needs. (I use a broadcast monitor for critical evaulation of my work of course, but that's only a 15".) Unbelievable that a $2000 tv is TRASH after only 2 years!! I'm praying that Sony offers me full value for the set, so I won't lose too much $$ in the process.


So looking at the KDS-50A2020 & KDS-50A2000, I can't find any difference, other than the KDS-50A2020 doesn't ship until 3/15/07. The specs are identical. Anyone know anything that says I should wait? Also dissappointing that these only offer a 1 year warranty....


Edit: just looking at Sony's Extended Warranty page, under Replacement Plans, and there it says: "The plan will provide an exact replacement if your Sony product should fail to operate properly. In the event an exact product can not be located, the plan will provide a replacement that is of equal or comparable value." Problem here is that we're talking apples & oranges, since you can't BUY anything exactly like the 960 now. So you think pushing for a SXRD is a fair comparison? (I also see a wide range of prices, from $1900 on Sonystyle to $1400 elsewhere.)


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GlenC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you look close enough, you will see each pixel, it is the fact that a LCoS based chip has a 93% fill factor, that the "screen door" is harder to see. Now there are two distinct issues here. Projection, fixed pixel (DLP, LCD & LCoS), front or rear, overlay RGB to display a white pixel. With a plasma, lcd flat panel and DV CRT, you are looking at red, green and blue cells individually. Due to their close proximity, the eye sees them as white.
> 
> 
> A display is either fixed-pixel or not, no in between.



I didn't know that was the definition. To me, stating "fixed pixel projection" would make more sense.


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Freeheeldude* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info on the SXRD's. The only recent post I've found so far regarding Sony offering a replacement for a XBR960 was one gent who said they only offered "replacement" value (not original value), and it was a credit at Sonystyle website. Anyone remember any other postings regarding Sony's "offers" for replacement sets?
> 
> 
> I am **SO** dissappointed this happened... I'm a video editor, and much of my work is still standard def - I specifically got the XBR960 for it's superior display of SD signals (as well as HD of course) - two years ago I couldn't find any digital display that worked as well as a CRT for these needs. (I use a broadcast monitor for critical evaulation of my work of course, but that's only a 15".) Unbelievable that a $2000 tv is TRASH after only 2 years!! I'm praying that Sony offers me full value for the set, so I won't lose too much $$ in the process.
> 
> 
> So looking at the KDS-50A2020 & KDS-50A2000, I can't find any difference, other than the KDS-50A2020 doesn't ship until 3/15/07. The specs are identical. Anyone know anything that says I should wait? Also dissappointing that these only offer a 1 year warranty....



A replacement will depend on many things, what resolution do you need, what color space do you need (601 or 709), is color accuracy important, etc. ....... Sony may not be able to deliver what you need with the current digital consumer displays.


----------



## Freeheeldude




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GlenC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A replacement will depend on many things, what resolution do you need, what color space do you need (601 or 709), is color accuracy important, etc. ....... Sony may not be able to deliver what you need with the current digital consumer displays.



I use my SMPTE-C broadcast monitor for critical color work, but I'd bought the 960 for it's superior handling of SD/HD, blacks, etc. So while it's not used for my critical evaluations, I desire a quality image for my edit room's main "client" monitor.

Guess I'm hoping to find someone reading this thread to remember some earlier posting where Sony offered a great replacement deal to someone in a similiar situation, so I could use that if needed to "leverage" the deal. And also to know what's current in the product lineup to approximate the 960. (Which looks like the SXRDs.(?))


----------



## DSperber

Your original question regarded "what should I consider to replace my now-defunct XBR960"?


And to that question (which I've also asked myself, should my gloriously perfect 2-year old XBR960, which replaced my previous glorious 4-year old Sampo 34WHD5 which had finally failed on me as the picture tube literally died, somehow someday also fail on me) I answered based on my subjective reaction to my sister's 1st-generation SXRD KDS-R50XBR1 that she bought when she moved into her new home.


The first weekend I visited her I spent much time working with DVE to adjust her set for her (just in the user-menu, since I didn't have any service-menu information and wasn't about to go there unless the user-menu didn't produce satisfactory results). At the end of the weekend, after tweaking was complete and rewiring from the original component-video/stereo done by Comcast to HDMI (from her 6412-III) I was simply stunned! STUNNED!


I was essentially looking (at a distance of probably 10 feet) what appeared to be a geometrically perfect XBR960... only in 50" size! Its picture looked like that of a CRT, not an LCD. GLORIOUS!


And now, everytime I return there for a visit, I look forward to the magical look of the picture on her set (of course my tune-up based on my XBR960 experience had a lot to do with it... PRO, SET SHARPNESS=MIN, etc.). I watched the "Mormon Tabernacle Choir" on PBS-HD over the Xmas holidays and was absolutely thunderstruck at what it looked like (like I was THERE... in SLC!). I watched the Grammy's a few weeks back, and thought we were watching from a floating window somehow suspended inside the Staple's Center.


I'm a stickler for perfection, and I have decided that if/when I ever want to replace/supplement my XBR960 it will be one of these new Sony SXRD sets (unless something better looking evolves for us to actually buy). At this time I still characterize my feeling about these sets (assuming you sit essentially straight-on) as (a) the size of a large-screen, and (b) the look of an XBR960. It appears to be a CRT in all of its subjective visual characteristics.


Go check it out for yourself at a local store. That's the best way for you to tell.


The newer models (i.e. 2nd-generation and newer, like the XBR2) support 1080p input via HDMI as well as displaying in 1080p. I really don't know what the difference between the 2000 and 2020 is, but it was probably a small engineering improvement (perhaps sound? processor?). The original XBR1 only supported displaying in 1080p. All generations have two HDMI inputs.


----------



## Freeheeldude

Thanks for the elaboration DS - I feel much better now going to the SXRD series, knowing that a *picky* 960 owner feels that way about them. Now the only thing is to wait to see what Sony will offer up for my 15-day out of warranty 960.... (Now that they've already replaced a board & the CRT. I was hoping that the regional Sony Service Rep would come out to fix the alignment & color purity issues that the service tech couldn't, but he decided just to bump it into "replacement" status.)


----------



## DJF(NJ)




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> There is no analog electron gun spraying at phosphors on the glass to excite them into glowing, subject to curvature problems, angle of spray problems, geometry problems, phosphor decay/ghosting problems,



What actually can be done about phosphor decay/ghosting??? New tube??? Seeing how a few of us here want to keep our 960(N)s running their best for quite awhile, what replacement parts, if available, would be advisable to buy for the future? Can a new SFP tube be bought from Sony parts dept?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DJF(NJ)* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What actually can be done about phosphor decay/ghosting??? New tube??? Seeing how a few of us here want to keep our 960(N)s running their best for quite awhile, what replacement parts, if available, would be advisable to buy for the future? Can a new SFP tube be bought from Sony parts dept?



This has been discussed before. I don't think there's anything inherently wrong with your picture tube that a new one would resolve.


The problem is simply that once excited the phosphors take a bit of time to go dark. And it's a function of brightness of the image before it disappears as well as how dark your viewing environment is, because the darker the room the easier it is to see the leftover ghosts on the screen.


Personally, I've never noticed nor cared. Only when the odd TV scene that has mostly dark except for something bright moving around (like a halogen flashlight on CSI in an otherwise very dark surrounding), or a bright flash which instantly appears and disappears, in which case if I pay attention closely I can notice it. But honestly, I never really noticed it before to complain about until it began to be discussed here. And I'm really not all that concerned about it, since it's not something that's "broken" and can actually be "fixed" (other than trying to minimize it by user-menu adjustments to brightness and contrast). It's really just inherent in phosphors. Most normal TV shows don't have such sudden extremes of brightness appearing and disappearing, and I don't play games on my XBR960.


Is this any worse than ghosting in LCD sets, where the "comet trail" is easily seen on high-speed motion? The newer sets have really addressed this problem and improved response time, but it's just inherent in the excite/decay time for these glowing pixels just like it is for phosphors on a CRT.


For virtually everything I watch in HD on network/premium TV (e.g. Rome, Boston Legal, etc.) which is generally daylight or well lit, there is zero ghosting.


----------



## RWetmore

Hey everyone,


I was experimenting with different resolutions on my set, and I think I made a facinating discovery. The conventional wisdom is that this set upconverts incoming 720p and displays it as native 1080i. My careful observations tonight conflict with this. I noticed when feeding the set 720p, the interlaced flicker and "judder" was significantly less than when feeding the set a 1080i signal. I also noticed with 720p that as you increase the contrast, the reduction of focus compared to 1080i is significantly less. I am wondering if the set perhaps converts 720p to native 720i or some other interlaced resolution less than 1080i? Also, 720p seems to be a little clearer than 1080i, which makes me think there is quite a bit of overlapping/blurring of the scanning lines with native 1080i. With native 720i (or somethign similar), there would be more room and less overlap, which also explains why focus is better with 720p.


I'm using high quality component video cables from Blue Jeans Cable, and a Toshiba HD-A1 HD-DVD player.


Anyone else ever noticed this? I'm really liking the results. The picture is more natural, and much easier on the eyes with 720p. Now if I could only get my cable box to output 720p instead of 1080i.


----------



## DJF(NJ)

Thanks DSperber for clearing that up for me. Lately I have been watching most of my programs at night with all the lights turned off. And I just bought an XBox360 a few weeks ago and have been doing some gaming as well




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This has been discussed before. I don't think there's anything inherently wrong with your picture tube that a new one would resolve.
> 
> 
> The problem is simply that once excited the phosphors take a bit of time to go dark. And it's a function of brightness of the image before it disappears as well as how dark your viewing environment is, because the darker the room the easier it is to see the leftover ghosts on the screen.
> 
> 
> Personally, I've never noticed nor cared. Only when the odd TV scene that has mostly dark except for something bright moving around (like a halogen flashlight on CSI in an otherwise very dark surrounding), or a bright flash which instantly appears and disappears, in which case if I pay attention closely I can notice it. But honestly, I never really noticed it before to complain about until it began to be discussed here. And I'm really not all that concerned about it, since it's not something that's "broken" and can actually be "fixed" (other than trying to minimize it by user-menu adjustments to brightness and contrast). It's really just inherent in phosphors. Most normal TV shows don't have such sudden extremes of brightness appearing and disappearing, and I don't play games on my XBR960.
> 
> 
> Is this any worse than ghosting in LCD sets, where the "comet trail" is easily seen on high-speed motion? The newer sets have really addressed this problem and improved response time, but it's just inherent in the excite/decay time for these glowing pixels just like it is for phosphors on a CRT.
> 
> 
> For virtually everything I watch in HD on network/premium TV (e.g. Rome, Boston Legal, etc.) which is generally daylight or well lit, there is zero ghosting.


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DJF(NJ)* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks DSperber for clearing that up for me. Lately I have been watching most of my programs at night with all the lights turned off. And I just bought an XBox360 a few weeks ago and have been doing some gaming as well



The 34" is much too small and too bright to watch without lights on in a dark room. I highly recommend a bias light like the Ideal-Lume.


----------



## lastxbr960




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> 
> I was experimenting with different resolutions on my set, and I think I made a facinating discovery. The conventional wisdom is that this set upconverts incoming 720p and displays it as native 1080i. My careful observations tonight conflict with this. I noticed when feeding the set 720p, the interlaced flicker and "judder" was significantly less than when feeding the set a 1080i signal. I also noticed with 720p that as you increase the contrast, the reduction of focus compared to 1080i is significantly less. I am wondering if the set perhaps converts 720p to native 720i or some other interlaced resolution less than 1080i? Also, 720p seems to be a little clearer than 1080i, which makes me think there is quite a bit of overlapping/blurring of the scanning lines with native 1080i. With native 720i (or somethign similar), there would be more room and less overlap, which also explains why focus is better with 720p.
> 
> 
> I'm using high quality component video cables from Blue Jeans Cable, and a Toshiba HD-A1 HD-DVD player.
> 
> 
> Anyone else ever noticed this? I'm really liking the results. The picture is more natural, and much easier on the eyes with 720p. Now if I could only get my cable box to output 720p instead of 1080i.



This is wierd, I thought I noticed the opposite.

I fed the sony hddvd and upconverted dvd at 720P-1080i.

With broadcast and cablecard and my sa8300 cablebox the 1080i channels usually look better but sometimes some of the very well done 720P seem as good .

It may just be source dependant.

Or is it possible the 960 does 960i instead of 1080i in this situation?

I forget where I read it but someone using the 960 as a pc monitor was able to coax 1700x1080i for movies and somthing like 1180x683P for stable computer use.

So I guess anything is possible.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm using high quality component video cables from Blue Jeans Cable, and a Toshiba HD-A1 HD-DVD player.



Did you notice a difference in picture quality using component as opposed to HDMI?


----------



## Freeheeldude

Update to my dead 960 topic; Sony is replacing it with a refurbished 960. But doesn't look like I can get any warranty beyond 90 days with it. Sigh. Fingers crossed.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Did you notice a difference in picture quality using component as opposed to HDMI?



Yes - component is about 15-20% clearer.


----------



## PeterTHX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes - component is about 15-20% clearer.



Hmm. My experience has been somewhat opposite. Much sharper thru HDMI on my set. Of course I had to recalibrate all inputs individually. The HDMI brightness level had to be set MUCH higher than the component inputs.


----------



## mr2828

We just had this discussion here a short while back. I think the conclusion was: it depends. At some point in the video chain things get converted to component video. It happens inside the set itself if you supply HDMI, or it happens somewhere external if you supply component. The only real question is are there some external devices that can do the conversion to component better than what the set does itself when supplied HDMI? I think possibly so - but it's a very external-device-specific call.


----------



## RWetmore

Every external device I have used provided the same increase in clarity via component. Chad Billheimer has verified that component is clearer than HDMI with with test patterns of his.


You do, however, need high quality, well shielded cables to block out any external noise that can reduce clarity. With some cheaper cables, component didn't look as good as HDMI.


The biggest negative is no upconversion of DVDs via component







.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Every external device I have used provided the same increase in clarity via component. Chad Billheimer has verified that component is clearer than HDMI with with test patterns of his.
> 
> 
> You do, however, need high quality, well shielded cables to block out any external noise that can reduce clarity. With some cheaper cables, component didn't look as good as HDMI.
> 
> 
> The biggest negative is no upconversion of DVDs via component
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



Hi,


We did have a discussion regarding HDMI versus Component - it was me who started it LOL.


If I recall, the consensus was that picture quality depended not so much on the type of cable but, as Mr2828 pointed out, the external device itself. I found the HD picture from my SA 8300 HD DVR far superior through HDMI than component, using the INHD test patterns for both inputs. In another forum some agreed that the SA 8300 HD DVR is better through HDMI than component, but that with the non-DVR HD boxes it didn't matter. So I was wondering what the case was with your HD-DVD player since the 960 has only has a single jack for HDMI.


It was also brought out that a "wire is just a wire" and inexpensive cables do not produce any less picture qualty as those selling for much more (but, as you mention, cheaper ones might not block out external noise) I have an $80 HDMI cable (realize now I overpaid for it) and used inexpensive ones for the component test. Since there was no noise or interference I was told by a few members of this forum that cost was not a factor in my comparision results.


----------



## evoluzione

i just bought a 34XBR910 off eBay for $400. of course this doesn't have hdmi but does have DVI. has anyone rated the quality of an hdmi to DVI connection? I don't have any components that use hdmi (as yet) so component is fine with me, but as i get more new stuff, HD TiVo, AppleTV and a PS3 (over time) i'll need to utilise all three of the xbr910's HD inputs. i'm guessing that i may lose some quality with the hdmi->dvi cable right?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *evoluzione* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> i just bought a 34XBR910 off eBay for $400. of course this doesn't have hdmi but does have DVI. has anyone rated the quality of an hdmi to DVI connection? I don't have any components that use hdmi (as yet) so component is fine with me, but as i get more new stuff, HD TiVo, AppleTV and a PS3 (over time) i'll need to utilise all three of the xbr910's HD inputs. i'm guessing that i may lose some quality with the hdmi->dvi cable right?



Hi,


Don't be concerned about any difference in quality. The advantage of HDMI is that it carries audio along with video (DVI is just video).


Should your future HD cable box, DVD player, PS3, etc have only HDMI outputs, simple converters are available that can be attached to one end of a HDMI cable making it a DVI plug.


Best of luck with your 910.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Just got the latest release of "Goldfinger" on DVD. I already had the original special edition released many years ago yet seeing the new digital frame-by-frame remastered version just blew me away. Super sharp, no grain and vibrant color - fantastic quality for a 43 year old movie.


Last night watched Star Wars III and was blown away even moreso. Awesome near-HD quality. It just shows what a great transfer can do, even for standard 480I discs.


Somebody on cNet pointed out that while there is an improvement, the difference between 480I and 1080P is not as dramatic as the jump from VHS to DVD. My point is with the 960's line doubling to 960I (wonder if that identical number is just coincidence) making standard DVDs look this great, there is only nominal gain going with upconversion or HD/Blue-Ray players. This might not be true with other sets but it sure does apply to the 960, still the best set around!


BTW - while I use PRO mode for HD and standard broadcast, the MOVIE mode is used for DVD.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> We did have a discussion regarding HDMI versus Component - it was me who started it LOL.
> 
> 
> If I recall, the consensus was that picture quality depended not so much on the type of cable but, as Mr2828 pointed out, the external device itself. I found the HD picture from my SA 8300 HD DVR far superior through HDMI than component, using the INHD test patterns for both inputs. In another forum some agreed that the SA 8300 HD DVR is better through HDMI than component, but that with the non-DVR HD boxes it didn't matter. So I was wondering what the case was with your HD-DVD player since the 960 has only has a single jack for HDMI.



The HD-DVD player was sharper via component by the same amount as my cable box.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It was also brought out that a "wire is just a wire" and inexpensive cables do not produce any less picture qualty as those selling for much more (but, as you mention, cheaper ones might not block out external noise) I have an $80 HDMI cable (realize now I overpaid for it) and used inexpensive ones for the component test. Since there was no noise or interference I was told by a few members of this forum that cost was not a factor in my comparision results.



Wire matters little with audio, but not for video. It isn't so much the wire, but the shielding of the wire from EMI and RFI noise that I think accounts for the bulk of the difference. Sometimes the noise can be subtle, reducing clarity without being overtly noticable. If you weren't using exceptionally well shielded component cables, there is good chance you weren't seeing the full "clarity" potential of component. I'm using the Blue Jeans cable 7710a with my HD-DVD player. I haven't gone back to compare cheap cables on this TV, but did on a previous LCD TV, and the difference really suprised me - not the least bit subtle and noticable immediately. I don't know if the difference on a CRT would be as dramatic, but I bet it would make a significnant difference.


Check out:

http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/component/index.htm


----------



## SurfingMatt27




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The HD-DVD player was sharper via component by the same amount as my cable box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wire matters little with audio, but not for video. It isn't so much the wire, but the shielding of the wire from EMI and RFI noise that I think accounts for the bulk of the difference. Sometimes the noise can be subtle, reducing clarity without being overtly noticable. If you weren't using exceptionally well shielded component cables, there is good chance you weren't seeing the full "clarity" potential of component. I'm using the Blue Jeans cable 7710a with my HD-DVD player. I haven't gone back to compare cheap cables on this TV, but did on a previous LCD TV, and the difference really suprised me - not the least bit subtle and noticable immediately. I don't know if the difference on a CRT would be as dramatic, but I bet it would make a significnant difference.
> 
> 
> Check out:
> 
> http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/component/index.htm



Yeah proper shielding really does make a difference, especially if you have a lot of cables behind your entertainment center like myself.


It don't really have any problems with interferance though since all my videocables are high grade quality and proper shielding, plus i seperate my video cables from the power cables and move them away from each other,there's a good tip for anybody that wants to keep their signal clean as possible!


----------



## 1000 Umbrellas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SurfingMatt27* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yeah proper shielding really does make a difference, especially if you have a lot of cables behind your entertainment center like myself.
> 
> 
> It don't really have any problems with interferance though since all my videocables are high grade quality and proper shielding, plus i seperate my video cables from the power cables and move them away from each other,there's a good tip for anybody that wants to keep their signal clean as possible!



I have found the component outs from my HD A1 to be more pleasing to these eyes. It retains the sharpness of HDMI but smoother at the same time, more film like if you will. Colors have more impact and black more depth. I use Bettercables.com Silver Serpents and I can't recommend them enough. They are somewhat expensive but not ridiculously so, what you get in return more than makes up for it.


----------



## Tempest_2084

Is it still possible to find an XBR960 in stores or am I forced to get the 970? I've looked all over online and even on Sony's official site but there are no 960's to be had. Is ebay my only choice? I'm not sure I'd trust ebay with this large a purchase, I'd really like to go through a retail store.


Do you suppose a big box store (Best Buy, Circuit City, Sears, etc.) might still have a 960 sitting in a dusty storeroom somewhere or has it been too long since it was discontinued?


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tempest_2084* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is it still possible to find an XBR960 in stores or am I forced to get the 970? I've looked all over online and even on Sony's official site but there are no 960's to be had. Is ebay my only choice? I'm not sure I'd trust ebay with this large a purchase, I'd really like to go through a retail store.
> 
> 
> Do you suppose a big box store (Best Buy, Circuit City, Sears, etc.) might still have a 960 sitting in a dusty storeroom somewhere or has it been too long since it was discontinued?



There are probably a very scant few new ones out there, but your chances of finding one are very, very slim. You can go to your local best buy and have them search all surrounding stores in whatever mile radius you tell them. That is how I found mine, but that was back in August of 2006. The other chance is ebay. I haven't seen any new ones in a while, but used 960s and XS955s show up quite frequently; however, most are local pick-up only.


BTW, in case you don't know, the XS955 has the same Super Fine Pitch Tube as the 960. Their PQ is identical.


----------



## Tempest_2084

Yeah I tried Best Buy on my way home tonight and there are no 960's in a two state radius. I'll give Circuit City a shot tomorrow, but I'm not expecting anything. Do you suppose calling Sony directly could help? I don't see the 960 in their online store anymore, but I suppose that doesn't mean they don't have a few left in stock somewhere (for replacements and such). Then again, I'm not sure if they do direct sales like that.


----------



## PeterTHX




> Quote:
> the XS955 has the same Super Fine Pitch Tube as the 960. Their PQ is identical



On that I have to disagree. I tested both with identical material on identical settings and the 960 had a consistently better picture. The 955 isn't bad at all and better than the 970, but I still believe the 960 was the best mainstream consumer CRT set ever produced.


----------



## ckhirnigs113

Tempest, You should call the Sony Factory Outlets because they still get 960's. If you don't mind getting a refurbished set, you can find one for a very good price. You also have the option of a 5-year extended warranty for next to nothing. -CK


----------



## Garvey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tempest_2084* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yeah I tried Best Buy on my way home tonight and there are no 960's in a two state radius.



Not surprising, since there has not been a single 960 manufactured in two years.


----------



## Tempest_2084




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ckhirnigs113* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Tempest, You should call the Sony Factory Outlets because they still get 960's. If you don't mind getting a refurbished set, you can find one for a very good price. You also have the option of a 5-year extended warranty for next to nothing. -CK



I thought about that, but do they ship or is it a pick up in the store only kind of thing? They closed the one Sony outlet in my state a few years back and the closest one now is over three hours away.


Buying anything refurbished makes me very nervous. Then again, a 5 year warrenty would ease those fears. What do refurb 960's go for from Sony anyway?


XS955? First I've heard of this. Is it a CRT HDTV as well? I thought the 960 and 970 were my only choices.


----------



## Sam Johnson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tempest_2084* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is it still possible to find an XBR960 in stores or am I forced to get the 970? I've looked all over online and even on Sony's official site but there are no 960's to be had. Is ebay my only choice? I'm not sure I'd trust ebay with this large a purchase, I'd really like to go through a retail store.
> 
> 
> Do you suppose a big box store (Best Buy, Circuit City, Sears, etc.) might still have a 960 sitting in a dusty storeroom somewhere or has it been too long since it was discontinued?





Why would you want to buy a 960? I've had serious, recurring problems with my 960 (see my earlier post elsewhere in this thread) and would never buy it again! Though I'm not familiar with the 970, one can always hope that it represents and improvement over the 960!


----------



## Tempest_2084




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sam Johnson* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Why would you want to buy a 960? I've had serious, recurring problems with my 960 (see my earlier post elsewhere in this thread) and would never buy it again! Though I'm not familiar with the 970, one can always hope that it represents and improvement over the 960!



The 960 has the Super Fine Pitch screen, whereas the 970 does not. However I too have heard of terrible reliability issues with the 960 which makes me a bit leary of it.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PeterTHX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> On that I have to disagree. I tested both with identical material on identical settings and the 960 had a consistently better picture. The 955 isn't bad at all and better than the 970, but I still believe the 960 was the best mainstream consumer CRT set ever produced.



The both use the exact same parts for the picture tube (check the parts list for both), and settings are not transferable from set to set. Different settings are needed from set to set in order to achieve the same levels. The only difference is the 960 has the anitglare coating and the 955 does not. I have owned both - PQ is identical without the coating.


----------



## ckhirnigs113

I got my 960 shipped from a Sony Outlet through a third-party freight shipper. I got the set with a 5-yr warranty for under $700. I suggest freightquote.com for shipping. It's at least worth looking into. -CK


----------



## Artwood

Has anyone ever seen the 960 and the 960N side by side? Could you tell any difference in picture quality between the two? Does the anti-glare coating help or hurt?


----------



## theroys88

Have the 36xs955 and love it. Best PQ I have seen on any set. There was a 960 right next to my set with the same feed. I adjusted the video settings so they were the same and so no difference in the PQ except that the 960 looked less vibrant. The anti-glare coating explains the difference. Since a majority of the time my wife and kids watch 4:3 programming, I felt the

set was a good compromise. I just wished I had got the 34" version a year earlier instead of my Panasonic 34wx54. My Panny is a nice set but the resolution is not as good. I keep looking at the Plasmas and LCD sets and find the PQ not even close to my Sony. Maybe when we start seeing true 1080p Plasmas sets I might get a bigger set.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Artwood* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anyone ever seen the 960 and the 960N side by side? Could you tell any difference in picture quality between the two? Does the anti-glare coating help or hurt?



I removed the anti-glare coating on my 960. Without the coating the picture is about 15-20% brighter and about 5-10% clearer. If I had a choice, I'd get the "N" model since the coating is really difficult to remove.


----------



## rbronco21

Artwood, I've owned both and the only difference I noticed is that the screen on the 960 looks more like a flat finish and the N is more glossy, like flat black vs gloss black paint, probably more like semi-gloss vs gloss.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *theroys88* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Have the 36xs955 and love it. Best PQ I have seen on any set. There was a 960 right next to my set with the same feed. I adjusted the video settings so they were the same and so no difference in the PQ except that the 960 looked less vibrant.



Hi,


Know the 955 offers a great picture, however, the 960 might not have been properly adjusted because using the exact settings on both yields slightly different picture results due to the 960 having a super fine pitch CRT and a DRC-MF1V Circuitry with palette options for clarity and level. The best comparision method is using the same test patterns on each and adjusting the video settings accordingly.


----------



## kodaker

At the PMA, I see where Sony has some new cameras that have a way to view pictures directly via component cable on a HD tv in high definition. We 960 owners already have that. If you format your digital pictures to 16x9 and put them on a memory stick, you can view them on the 960 and they fill the screen and are very sharp. Actually you only need the equivilent of a 2 megapixel camera to get 1920 x

1080 which is HD resolution. Now, the reason I say all this.


I don't have a device that normally uses a memory stick but I bought one, a 128 Mb

to try out this function. It works, sorta. I don't know if my memory stick is bad or what, but it works sometimes. Some pictures won't display and if I put a lot of pictures on it and run in slide show mode it will show about 20-30 then say it has an error, but sometimes it works fine. Mine is a Sony brand stick.


Has anyone else tried this with good results?


----------



## theroys88




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> Know the 955 offers a great picture, however, the 960 might not have been properly adjusted because using the exact settings on both yields slightly different picture results due to the 960 having a super fine pitch CRT and a DRC-MF1V Circuitry with palette options for clarity and level. The best comparision method is using the same test patterns on each and adjusting the video settings accordingly.



Both sets have the SFP tube and same guts less a few extras and the 960 has a antiglare coating. That is why it looked a bit darker then the XS955. Both sets are fantastic and would love to get a 34" 960 or a 34" xs955.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *theroys88* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Both sets have the SFP tube and same guts less a few extras and the 960 has a antiglare coating. That is why it looked a bit darker then the XS955. Both sets are fantastic and would love to get a 34" 960 or a 34" xs955.



Nope, only the 960 has the super-fine pitch CRT with the apeture grill, gun, yoke, etc. (955 has the Trintron CRT with the fine pitch aperture grill.) Both sets offer Digital Creation Realtity (which doubles vertical and horizontal resolutation) but the addition of clarity and reality adjustments is available only the 960 (VI Circuity).


For a comparision between the two sets, please see the attached link:.

http://www.cyberscholar.com/sony/Tub...aining1_v2.cfm 


Again, the 955 has a picture to be proud of, but these added performance enhancements are some of the reasons why the 960 was more expensive.


----------



## Oliver Deplace




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nope, only the 960 has the super-fine pitch CRT with the apeture grill, gun, yoke, etc. (955 has the Trintron CRT with the fine pitch aperture grill.) Both sets offer Digital Creation Realtity (which doubles vertical and horizontal resolutation) but the addition of clarity and reality adjustments is available only the 960 (VI Circuity).
> 
> 
> For a comparision between the two sets, please see the attached link:.
> 
> http://www.cyberscholar.com/sony/Tub...aining1_v2.cfm
> 
> 
> Again, the 955 has a picture to be proud of, but these added performance enhancements are some of the reasons why the 960 was more expensive.



The XS955 and XBR960 are both SFP (your link confirms).

XS omits the adjustable DRC, Firewire, Twin-View and XBR warranty. That's why the XBR has a higher price.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Oliver Deplace* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The XS955 and XBR960 are both SFP (your link confirms).
> 
> XS omits the adjustable DRC, Firewire, Twin-View and XBR warranty. That's why the XBR has a higher price.



Please know I'm really feeling bad because it is only my intention to explain why use of the same settings might have caused the 960's picture to look less vivid. I'm not at all putting down the 955 because it is a great set.


Didn't you mention that you have the 36 inch version, which is a 4:3 screen? If so, what you have is the Trinitron CRT. From that link:


16:9 Super Fine Pitch CRT --- (Not on KD-32XS945 and KD-36XS955.)


The Super Fine Pitch CRT is for 16:9 sets. If you have the 30 or 34 models, then it seems your set has it but without the palette and color axis functions.


The adjustable palette does make a difference - I noticed mine became more vivid with an approximate 75 reality setting than lower (especially with the whites).


----------



## theroys88




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nope, only the 960 has the super-fine pitch CRT with the apeture grill, gun, yoke, etc. (955 has the Trintron CRT with the fine pitch aperture grill.) Both sets offer Digital Creation Realtity (which doubles vertical and horizontal resolutation) but the addition of clarity and reality adjustments is available only the 960 (VI Circuity).
> 
> 
> For a comparision between the two sets, please see the attached link:.
> 
> http://www.cyberscholar.com/sony/Tub...aining1_v2.cfm
> 
> 
> Again, the 955 has a picture to be proud of, but these added performance enhancements are some of the reasons why the 960 was more expensive.



Wrongo!!! My 36xs955 has Super Fine Pitch on the front of the set. Your source is incorrect brother. Check Sony's website and check the specs. Sorry to correct you but the sets guts are the same less a antigare coating, a longer warranty, Firewall connection. If you check Sony's 40" and 46" LCD sets you have a similar situation with the XBR2 and the V2500. Basically the same sets with the XBR with some added features. Most of the posts state they cannot tell any differences in the PQ. Now if I was to argue that a Philips 34" set had the same PQ as a 960 or a xs955 then I would say any negative comment is fair game.


----------



## christophersj

I'm a year-long Kd-34xbr960N owner. No significant problems at all. I DO need a real pro ISF calibration person, though, because I want to use the set in a professional setting. I am in Los Angeles. Can anyone recommend a person?


I'm not a rich guy, so costs count.


The set needs color, grayscale, RGB convergence, geometry, overscan adjustments on both the Component HD and HDMI inputs.


Its funny how some of those issues above do not occur on an LCD or plasma, yet the subtlety of a CRT image still makes it worth it.


-Christopher S. Johnson


----------



## PeterTHX




> Quote:
> Wrongo!!! My 36xs955 has Super Fine Pitch on the front of the set. Your source is incorrect brother. Check Sony's website and check the specs. Sorry to correct you but the sets guts are the same less a antigare coating, a longer warranty, Firewall connection. If you check Sony's 40" and 46" LCD sets you have a similar situation with the XBR2 and the V2500. Basically the same sets with the XBR with some added features. Most of the posts state they cannot tell any differences in the PQ. Now if I was to argue that a Philips 34" set had the same PQ as a 960 or a xs955 then I would say any negative comment is fair game.



The V2500 and XBR2 have vastly different picture engines. Bravia Pro (DRC2.5) is much much better. Watch them together, the Sony demo perfectly shows when the screen goes dark you can still see backlighting highlights on the 2500, where the XBR2 maintains a rock solid black...something extremely impressive for an LCD.


You may be mixing it up with the XBR2 and XBR3, which are the same exact displays save for cosmetics (bezel). The 2500 is good, but the XBR2 is in a class by itself.


Back on topic: the 955 also lacks the TwinView option that the 960 has. I don't remember if the DRC engine is the same.


----------



## Mathesar

I really wish these CRTs didnt have uneven focus at the sides of the screen ..it can be distracting when playing certain video games ,I've been playing Worms on Xbox360 lately and the loss of focus at the sides is pretty apparent, mainly due to the fact you use all areas of the screen during gameplay instead of focusing on the center like a lot of videogames.


Almost makes me want to buy a nice DLP set for gaming.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *theroys88* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wrongo!!! My 36xs955 has Super Fine Pitch on the front of the set. Your source is incorrect brother. Check Sony's website and check the specs. Sorry to correct you but the sets guts are the same less a antigare coating, a longer warranty, Firewall connection. If you check Sony's 40" and 46" LCD sets you have a similar situation with the XBR2 and the V2500. Basically the same sets with the XBR with some added features. Most of the posts state they cannot tell any differences in the PQ. Now if I was to argue that a Philips 34" set had the same PQ as a 960 or a xs955 then I would say any negative comment is fair game.



Hi,


My SINCERE apologies!


That link was from Sony on how retailers could best sell their products but it seems their printed information was incorrect (saying SFP CRT not on the 4:3 models - I think they meant it was not a 16x9 tube but was not stated clearly enough). Neither the 960 or 955 is featured on Sony's website but checking amazon and other threads they all do state SFP CRT.


Again, my concern was why you saw a less vibrant picture on the 960. There could be many reasons like using the same settings for different size tubes, not adjusting the DCR palette feature, having the red emphasized or de-emphasized, etc.


As we've each said, both are great sets and the argument would come when somebody tries to compare either to a Phillips.


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> Again, my concern was why you saw a less vibrant picture on the 960. There could be many reasons like using the same settings for different size tubes, not adjusting the DCR palette feature, having the red emphasized or de-emphasized, etc.



He mentioned his 955 doesn't have an Anti glare coating (which is why it has a brighter picture than his 960) The newer XBR960N model doesn't have an anti glare coating either, I guess Sony figured it was worth the boost in brightness.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> He mentioned his 955 doesn't have an Anti glare coating (which is why it has a brighter picture than his 960) The newer XBR960N model doesn't have an anti glare coating either, I guess Sony figured it was worth the boost in brightness.



The other possibility is the DRC palette which I find affects the white level not so much as the overall brightness.


----------



## ckhirnigs113

What does this DRC Palette do exactly? I have fooled around with it, but I can never seem to see any difference. Can someone explain it to me? Thanks, CK


----------



## theroys88

The xs955 has DRC but I think it lacks the fine tuning that the 960 has. My friend has a xbr800 with this feature. My DRC is greyed on progressive signals. Though my H20 box does a better job then the DRC.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ckhirnigs113* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What does this DRC Palette do exactly? I have fooled around with it, but I can never seem to see any difference. Can someone explain it to me? Thanks, CK



I know, the manual gets me confused as well but I think the palette lets one control how much more detail they want brought into the picture. For example, on my DVD component input I noticed some additional minute details (like more facial blemishes) and stronger whites when the reality was increased to 76 and the clarity at 71 (anything higher made the picture grainy). For HDMI, the palette only comes into effect when watching standard definition and because of it's limited resolution, I have the palette adjusted at 66 in both clarity and reality.


The manual says the 960 doubles the lines of vertical and horizontal resolution resulting in four times the density of quality sources like DVD and upconverts it to near-HD quality. So it's my guess that the palette is a fine tuning of the resolution so the details will appear as strong and natural as as possible. I can believe it because I once saw a DVD on a different set (LCD); the color and sharpness was quite pleasing but I hardly noticed stubble or blemishes on facial skin while on the 960 it's more prevalent, no matter how much they are covered up by make-up. I also saw more strands of grass.

This is different than sharpness which basicly controls the focus.


Again, the manual is ambigious because too little is said but I hope my understanding is somewhat near correct.


----------



## RWetmore

What about 1080i via component? Does the DRC Palette do anything?


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What about 1080i via component? Does the DRC Palette do anything?



DRC works with NTSC signals, 480i/p


----------



## wbrett

I haven't played around with it with DVD (need to check into that) but I've never been impressed with the DRC for my cable broadcast NTSC/480i signals. In fact I hate it. It seems to give the picture a really funky digital look most of the time. I think maybe it's dependent on the quality of the signal because it does seem to look a little better on quality 480i signals. Maybe I'm doing something wrong but I prefer the picture on my 36" non-hd Wega.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wbrett* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I haven't played around with it with DVD (need to check into that) but I've never been impressed with the DRC for my cable broadcast NTSC/480i signals. In fact I hate it. It seems to give the picture a really funky digital look most of the time. I think maybe it's dependent on the quality of the signal because it does seem to look a little better on quality 480i signals. Maybe I'm doing something wrong but I prefer the picture on my 36" non-hd Wega.




You're right - it depends upon the source. Turner Classic Movies looks better on the 960 than my non-HD sets while other stations show more grain.


Upconversion brings out both the strengths and (unfortunately) the shortcomings of standard definition broadcasts that are masked on non-HD sets.


----------



## lambo_freak

Does anybody have a link to find this tube for sale anymore? I have one place at over $1K us, but is $375 more than I can find the lesser 970. Is the 960 worth the price increase? I'm really having a hard time finding any other prices.


----------



## pallster

Hello - I have a 34xbr960 that I ammoving (withthe helpof 3 people) into a spare rom;

is it possible to hook speakers (regular JBL 8 ohm) directly to the speaker outputs on the rear panel, without going through amplifier/reeciver, without injuring XBR?

I had been using an Onkyo TX-SR604, but I am going to update main TV room to a Aquos, and I do not have an amplifier avaialble for my ol' trustworthy XBR960.

Thanks, -paul


----------



## wbrett

The audio out looks to be 2 kilohms. Not sure if there is some sort of converter you could use or not.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lambo_freak* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anybody have a link to find this tube for sale anymore? I have one place at over $1K us, but is $375 more than I can find the lesser 970. Is the 960 worth the price increase? I'm really having a hard time finding any other prices.



If it's new - it's totally worth the premium. You're really lucky if you have found a new one.


----------



## njt

I have a strange question that I hope isn't answered in the thread (tried searching). My DVD player has started exhibiting a strange behavior. Essentially a widesreen movie displays as "zoomed out", meaning black bars display at the left, right, top and bottom of the image when viewine in "Normal" view on the 960. I have confirmed the basics (i.e., player set to a screen mode of 16:9)yet I have to select Zoom mode on the 960 to get the proper ratio (widescreen with small black bars on the top and bottom as expected).


Other inputs (D* via HDMI) are unaffected.


I wonder if there is something up with my DVD player (nothing special... just a Sony DVP-NS725P connected via a monster component cable) or if I am flaking and there is some combination of settings that could cause this. Anyone have a similar situation? I've tried googling but end up up with piles of people suprised to see black bars after getting an HDTV. This is *not* the symptom I am getting... I am seeing black bars at the top, bottom, left and right of the screen. Best way I can describe it is that it is zoomed out, or watching a PC video in Windows Media Player at a "small" setting.


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a strange question that I hope isn't answered in the thread (tried searching). My DVD player has started exhibiting a strange behavior. Essentially a widesreen movie displays as "zoomed out", meaning black bars display at the left, right, top and bottom of the image when viewine in "Normal" view on the 960. I have confirmed the basics (i.e., player set to a screen mode of 16:9)yet I have to select Zoom mode on the 960 to get the proper ratio (widescreen with small black bars on the top and bottom as expected).
> 
> 
> Other inputs (D* via HDMI) are unaffected.
> 
> 
> I wonder if there is something up with my DVD player (nothing special... just a Sony DVP-NS725P connected via a monster component cable) or if I am flaking and there is some combination of settings that could cause this. Anyone have a similar situation? I've tried googling but end up up with piles of people suprised to see black bars after getting an HDTV. This is *not* the symptom I am getting... I am seeing black bars at the top, bottom, left and right of the screen. Best way I can describe it is that it is zoomed out, or watching a PC video in Windows Media Player at a "small" setting.




Does it happen for all of your DVD's or just some of them? What you are describing sounds like what I see when I play a DVD that is mastered as non-anamorphic widescreen. I get this on some older titles I have like Criterion Armageddon and Superbit 5th Element. There is a wiki entry that has more specific info on it:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Letterb...d_gutterboxing


----------



## Riot Nrrrd




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *christophersj* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm a year-long Kd-34xbr960N owner. No significant problems at all. I DO need a real pro ISF calibration person, though, because I want to use the set in a professional setting. I am in Los Angeles. Can anyone recommend a person?
> 
> 
> I'm not a rich guy, so costs count.
> 
> 
> The set needs color, grayscale, RGB convergence, geometry, overscan adjustments on both the Component HD and HDMI inputs.



I'm a bit surprised he didn't say anything in response to this, but our very own GlenC is an ISF calibrator down in Whittier.


----------



## njt

Yes it does happen with all movies though newer ones seem to be solved by selecting a screen mode of Full and old ones (e.g., Pulp Fiction and The Usual Suspects) seem to be solved by selecting a screen mode of Zoom.


I suppose my issue boils down to this... If I have a 480p DVD source set to output at 16:9 and my 960 in a screen mode of Normal, should I expect 4:3 or 16:9 output?


After re-reading page 58 of the owner's manual, I am questioning my memory and perhaps I have selected a screen mode of Full each time, and tended to always watch newer DVDs.


----------



## tvh3ad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes it does happen with all movies though newer ones seem to be solved by selecting a screen mode of Full and old ones (e.g., Pulp Fiction and The Usual Suspects) seem to be solved by selecting a screen mode of Zoom.
> 
> 
> I suppose my issue boils down to this... If I have a 480p DVD source set to output at 16:9 and my 960 in a screen mode of Normal, should I expect 4:3 or 16:9 output?
> 
> 
> After re-reading page 58 of the owner's manual, I am questioning my memory and perhaps I have selected a screen mode of Full each time, and tended to always watch newer DVDs.




There is no 'Normal' screen setting on the 960. If your dvd player is set to 16:9 and your screen is set to 'Full' and you're connected via HDMI or component 480p/i, you'll get whatever the DVD is mastered to display. I've seen so-called "widescreen" DVDs do all of the following:


- Letterboxed widescreen image when TV is set to Full, e.g. "Lord of the Rings", "Harry Potter", "Star Wars", etc. (Image distorts vertically if Zoom mode is selected.)


- Full 16:9 image when TV is set to Full, e.g. "Finding Nemo".


- Centered widescreen image which requires Zoom mode just to get a widescreen letterboxed image, e.g. "The Godfather" and "The Deer Hunter" original DVD releases.


- Centered widescreen image which requires Zoom mode to fill screen with unletterboxed, undistorted image, e.g. "Pulp Fiction", "Doctor Who" on SciFi (okay, not a DVD, but you get the idea).


You may not want to know this much information, but the 960's screen modes also seem to work differently depending on your source resolution and format. For example, consider the top type of DVD -- say, "Harry Potter". If you feed a Harry Potter DVD to the 960 via an upscaling DVD player and choose an upscaled HD output format (say, 1080i), then the 960 Zoom mode will correctly zoom the picture without distortion. The same exact DVD fed at 480i/480p results in vertical zoom distortion. It's not explicitly stated anywhere, but I assume this is because the 960 Zoom automatically assumes that 480i/p signals are 4:3, not 16:9 (and vice versa for HD signals).


----------



## PeterTHX




> Quote:
> Centered widescreen image which requires Zoom mode just to get a widescreen letterboxed image, e.g. "The Godfather" and "The Deer Hunter" original DVD releases.



Just a nit: "The Godfather" on DVD has always been a 16:9 1.85 presentation.



> Quote:
> - Centered widescreen image which requires Zoom mode to fill screen with unletterboxed, undistorted image, e.g. "Pulp Fiction", "Doctor Who" on SciFi (okay, not a DVD, but you get the idea).



Not sure what you mean here since "Pulp Fiction" is 2.35. The VISTA Special Edition is 16:9



> Quote:
> You may not want to know this much information, but the 960's screen modes also seem to work differently depending on your source resolution and format. For example, consider the top type of DVD -- say, "Harry Potter". If you feed a Harry Potter DVD to the 960 via an upscaling DVD player and choose an upscaled HD output format (say, 1080i), then the 960 Zoom mode will correctly zoom the picture without distortion. The same exact DVD fed at 480i/480p results in vertical zoom distortion. It's not explicitly stated anywhere, but I assume this is because the 960 Zoom automatically assumes that 480i/p signals are 4:3, not 16:9 (and vice versa for HD signals).



Not sure what you mean here. Any HD signal (720p, 1080i) will set the 960's output to "FULL". There is no zooming involved.


480i/p material will be set to either "normal" or "full" depending on the ID1 detection: the flag on 16:9 DVDs, unless you've set "4:3 Default" to a different mode.


----------



## PeterTHX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes it does happen with all movies though newer ones seem to be solved by selecting a screen mode of Full and old ones (e.g., Pulp Fiction and The Usual Suspects) seem to be solved by selecting a screen mode of Zoom.
> 
> 
> I suppose my issue boils down to this... If I have a 480p DVD source set to output at 16:9 and my 960 in a screen mode of Normal, should I expect 4:3 or 16:9 output?
> 
> 
> After re-reading page 58 of the owner's manual, I am questioning my memory and perhaps I have selected a screen mode of Full each time, and tended to always watch newer DVDs.



What you are seeing is that certain older DVDs were not 16:9 anamorphic enhanced, they are simply letterboxed and don't contain the 33% resolution enhancement from a native 16:9 transfer. The discs you listed have since been reissued with new 16:9 transfers.


Note: even some of the first DVDs have 16:9 transfers (Warner & Sony/Columbia) so they appear in FULL mode on my 960.


The 960 supports ID1 which is a flag on 16:9 material telling the TV to automatically set it to "FULL", now I've heard of some DVD players not outputting the signal properly, so you have to watch out.


Hope this helps.


----------



## tvh3ad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PeterTHX* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not sure what you mean here. Any HD signal (720p, 1080i) will set the 960's output to "FULL". There is no zooming involved.
> 
> 
> 480i/p material will be set to either "normal" or "full" depending on the ID1 detection: the flag on 16:9 DVDs, unless you've set "4:3 Default" to a different mode.



The 16:9 flag appears to have no effect on screen mode behavior (other than telling the 960 to switch to Full) -- it's the signal resolution that controls the available screen mode options.


So, what I mean is this, and it's basically right out of the owner's manual:


If you don't want letterboxed/pillarboxed content and you prefer to use Zoom (or Wide Zoom) to get the image to fill the screen, you get different screen mode options and behavior depending on whether the signal is 480i/p or 720p/1080i.


With most of the DVDs I've tried, the 960 does not zoom 16:9 letterboxed material presented in 480i/p without distorting. The same source material presented in 720/1080 zooms with no distortion.


If you never zoom anything and you're happy with letterboxing, you'll never notice this. I sit far enough away that I usually prefer having a full-screen image, and sometimes that means a zoom mode.


To accommodate the set's behavior, I use an upscaling DVD player. For 4:3 material, I use 480p and Wide Zoom (I got used to the slight distortion and I think it looks pretty good); for standard 16:9 material, I use whatever looks good and Full; and for letterboxed 16:9, I use 1080i and Zoom. I also have a PVR, but that has an "AUTO HDMI" setting which just transmits the signal in whatever the original source resolution was and then the set handles it appropriately. The only exception is 4:3 pillarboxed HD, and the only time it's ever bothered me is spring training (which is being broadcast in 1080i on NESNHD but source is 4:3).


Hope this clears up my earlier post, and sorry to have been inaccurate on DVD formats.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tvh3ad* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The 16:9 flag appears to have no effect on screen mode behavior (other than telling the 960 to switch to Full) -- it's the signal resolution that controls the available screen mode options............



The ID1 flag is a little more than that. The combination of the DVD player set to 16:9 and an anamorphic/enhanced for 16:9 DVD results in the 480 signal being sent to the tv in a vertically compressed format. The tv must uncompress to display this signal correctly. For the Sony, auto-detection of the ID1 flag puts the tv in the FULL screen mode which correctly uncompresses the signal.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tvh3ad* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> .............With most of the DVDs I've tried, the 960 does not zoom 16:9 letterboxed material presented in 480i/p without distorting. ...



This behavior is due to the above combination of DVD player settings.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tvh3ad* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> .. The same source material presented in 720/1080 zooms with no distortion. .........



This behavior is due to your upconverting player formating the 480 material on the DVD to an appropriate HD format. FULL screen mode will still be the correct mode for viewing the entire movie.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tvh3ad* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> .....If you never zoom anything and you're happy with letterboxing, you'll never notice this. I sit far enough away that I usually prefer having a full-screen image, and sometimes that means a zoom mode.....



I prefer to see the entire movie rather than crop the left and right sides. The same reason I don't buy/rent fools frame, pre-cropped, versions of DVDs.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tvh3ad* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ......For 4:3 material, I use 480p and Wide Zoom (I got used to the slight distortion and I think it looks pretty good); ........



I agree.


----------



## mofoman

Can anyone tell me where would find one of these sets in good condition. I live in the Uk and I have only the choice of one CRT HD which I have, the Samsung slimfit, but it's nowhere near in the league of this spectacular set, and I am more than willing to pay the 600 dollars or more for shipping to get a crt HD like this. Please can anyone help me, I want to secure this HD crt before it dissapears, as this has the most amazing pcture I have ever seen.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mofoman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can anyone tell me where would find one of these sets in good condition. I live in the Uk and I have only the choice of one CRT HD which I have, the Samsung slimfit, but it's nowhere near in the league of this spectacular set, and I am more than willing to pay the 600 dollars or more for shipping to get a crt HD like this. Please can anyone help me, I want to secure this HD crt before it dissapears, as this has the most amazing pcture I have ever seen.



Don't get a set manufactured for distribution in the United States. We use a different transmission standard (NTSC). You would need a PAL set in the UK.


Mark


----------



## Joseph Dubin




tvh3ad said:


> For 4:3 material, I use 480p and Wide Zoom (I got used to the slight distortion and I think it looks pretty good)QUOTE]
> 
> 
> I use wide zoom for 4x3 material as well and my only regret is that it cuts off the bottom portion of the news ticker on some channels because the vertical adjustment is about at max so to have a picture with the least amount of horizontal center stretching.
> 
> 
> When you use 480p, do you mean the output from the cable box or dvd player? I experimented with upconverting and progressive scan settings and the picture quality did not look as good as opposed to a 480i feed allowing the Sony to do the upconversion instead (progressive signals cannot be upconverted). From what I understand, the picture quality is increased four times by the 960 so quality sources like DVD are converted to near high definition standards (like an upconverting DVD player). And I found digital TV looks better letting the Sony do the job instead of the cable box.
> 
> 
> Try it and see which works best for you.


----------



## njt

Thanks guys. I think I just primarily watched newer DVDs and didn't pay mind to the screen mode being auto-set to "Full". The gutterboxed older DVDs kind of threw me for a loop and assumed something was wrong with the old dvd player (I have a quick trigger finger when it provides an excuse for buying a new toy).


----------



## mofoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BTV Mark* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Don't get a set manufactured for distribution in the United States. We use a different transmission standard (NTSC). You would need a PAL set in the UK.
> 
> 
> Mark



Yeah that's fine, I will be using it primarily for my NTSC broadcasting and recording and games equipment, and I use satellite through ntsc component.


So it's this NTSC model that I am after, so do you know where I could still find one??Used is fine.


----------



## britanico

hi guys

I am new to this great forum and need some help

living in europe and having received a 34xs955 from a relative coming from usa,i need a transformer for 220v to 120v.However with startup surge ,the 955(with 250w)draws a lot more power,but i don't know how much.So would appreciate some power number that let me purchase a correct transformer.


----------



## tvh3ad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> When you use 480p, do you mean the output from the cable box or dvd player? I experimented with upconverting and progressive scan settings and the picture quality did not look as good as opposed to a 480i feed allowing the Sony to do the upconversion instead (progressive signals cannot be upconverted). From what I understand, the picture quality is increased four times by the 960 so quality sources like DVD are converted to near high definition standards (like an upconverting DVD player). And I found digital TV looks better letting the Sony do the job instead of the cable box.



I mean the DVD player. I have a new player with a very nice ABT deinterlacer which passes 480i as well as 480p/720p/1080i. I've experimented quite a bit and I think it looks slightly better both at 480p and 1080i than the Sony. (My old DVD player was best at 480i with the Sony doing the upscaling.) Interestingly, the Sony's Zoom is slightly better than the DVD player's -- it's a bit sharper.


For TV broadcast and cable, the 960 does a much better job with upscaling 480i than my PVR/tuner, which was also made by Sony. (I use cablecards, so I have no other cable box to compare against.)


----------



## tvh3ad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I prefer to see the entire movie rather than crop the left and right sides. The same reason I don't buy/rent fools frame, pre-cropped, versions of DVDs.



I completely agree...but 8+ ft away and a letterboxed image on a 34" screen just doesn't do it for me. Until I can replace the set with something larger without compromising the image (or losing the ability to watch SD and have it look halfway decent), I can live with zooming letterboxed anamorphic content. And, for the reasons you described, the only way I've found to do that is to use a good upscaling player. (HD/blu-ray would work too, but I'm not ready to go there yet.)


----------



## mofoman

So are any of you guys going to upgrade soon to a bigger tv and looking to sell on your 960's?? I am really desperate to get one, or if you guys could point me to a store in the US that may still carry them, I'd be mega grateful.


----------



## Patfantx

Best Buy, Katy, TX had 1 last week -floor model minor scratches. Greenspoint, TX (houston) Best Buy had 1 a month ago - floor model with some scratches. I think one other one somewhere in Texas had a new one in stock (I had them check on computer). Starting to give good discounts (35-50% depending if you take it in the form of a Best Buy gift card)


----------



## mofoman

Thanks alot for your post, I take it you have to call these stores to get the info on stock??


----------



## Patfantx

I was in the store and had them check the stock of the item number. They can't do any kind of a national search but can do regional searches. IIRC, there was one new one left in Brownsville, TX that wasn't a display but I don't know how the ship or move items.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tvh3ad* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I mean the DVD player. I have a new player with a very nice ABT deinterlacer which passes 480i as well as 480p/720p/1080i. I've experimented quite a bit and I think it looks slightly better both at 480p and 1080i than the Sony. (My old DVD player was best at 480i with the Sony doing the upscaling.) Interestingly, the Sony's Zoom is slightly better than the DVD player's -- it's a bit sharper.
> 
> 
> For TV broadcast and cable, the 960 does a much better job with upscaling 480i than my PVR/tuner, which was also made by Sony. (I use cablecards, so I have no other cable box to compare against.)



Thanks for getting back. The 960's additional 480 lines of resolutation is 20% less than the 600 outputted by an upconverting DVD player so I can understand it providing a slightly better picture.


When I asked the forum which they preferred responses were mixed - some felt the Sony provided a better picture, others felt it was the DVD player and some noticed no difference with either. What I find interesting is that you notice a slightly sharper picture using the 960's zoom. I do lots of DVD recording which requires use of the zoom mode since widescreen material is recorded in a 4x3 aspect ratio. That's important for me to know should I consider purchase of an upconversion player, however, I also wonder why Sony's line doubler does a better job with non-amaphoric material than one that upconverts it to full 1080i resolution.


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Best Buy, Katy, TX had 1 last week -floor model minor scratches. Greenspoint, TX (Houston) Best Buy had 1 a month ago - floor model with some scratches. I think one other one somewhere in Texas had a new one in stock (I had them check on computer). Starting to give good discounts (35-50% depending if you take it in the form of a Best Buy gift card)



I just got the XBR960 from Katy's Best Buy. There are two Best Buys on Katy, but only one on Price Plaza had one display left, so I think that is the one you mentioned. Thanks for info,







I wanted to get 960 since late January but pretty much gave up on finding one in or close to Houston. Little did I know that I had one sitting about 30 minutes drive from my house heh. They also had it on clearance special for 600$ plus 600$ Best Buy gift card. After little haggling, they sold it to me for 500$ plus 600$ gift card. The TV is in very good condition. Two small 1/2 inch scratches on the tube to the paint, but they unnoticeable most of the time, and I can't find anything else wrong with it.


I saw XBR 960 from Greenspoint's Best Buy abut two months ago when I was actively looking for 960(That set was the only one that I was able to actually see in person). Its screen had big somewhat round scratch about 3-4 inches in diameter in one of the corners. Considering the Best Buy was asking 900$ for it at the time, I decided not to get it and keep XBR 970 just bought instead.


I put XBR 960 in my bedroom and moved XBR 970 from my bedroom to the living room. I must say the picture on 960 is stunning







My XBOX 360 games and HDTV look great. Overall I am very happy with the set.



> Quote:
> Thanks a lot for your post, I take it you have to call these stores to get the info on stock??



To my knowledge, Best Best doesn't usually ship open box or display units. They may choose to deliver if you live close by, but there is no guarantee. As far as oversea shipments or even same state shipments for that matter go, Best Buy doesn't do it even if you hire shipping company. I know this because during my search last January, I found one at Best Buy about 6 hours drive from Houston. I asked the store clerk if it is possible to ship XBR 960, and he told me that Best Buy doesn't ship open items, and that I will have to pick up the set myself. I even asked if arrangement through 3rd party shipping company was possible just for the heck if it, and the clerk still told me no. Also, when I was checking out 960 at the Greenspoint's store last January, I asked if they will deliver as well and the salesman told me no, which surprised me since it is only 30 minutes drive. I think Best Buy doesn't want to deal with possibility of set being broken during transfer without the box. I think, the store that I bought my set from was eager to get rid of it, and I lived close enough for them to agree on delivery. If you find new in box, they will probably ship it at least inside the U. S. not sure about overseas though.


Anyway, I have a few questions about my new set










How does this set look with PS3?


Since I have 600$ gift card from Best Buy now, I am thinking about picking up one for games and Blue ray movie action.


Which connection is better HDMI or component for this set?


I am planning to calibrate it tonight with DVE, and I always go crossed eyed from adjusting sharpness and contrast settings lol.


Can anyone tell me the good way to adjust these two or/and in what range should I stay for these two?


----------



## LDBecker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SwiftSweeper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just got the XBR960 from Katy's Best Buy. There are two Best Buys on Katy, but only one on Price Plaza had one display left, so I think that is the one you mentioned. Thanks for info,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get 960 since late January but pretty much gave up on finding one in or close to Houston. Little did I know that I had one sitting about 30 minutes drive from my house heh. They also had it on clearance special for 600$ plus 600$ Best Buy gift card. After little haggling, they sold it to me for 500$ plus 600$ gift card. The TV is in very good condition. Two small 1/2 inch scratches on the tube to the paint, but they unnoticeable most of the time, and I can't find anything else wrong with it.



I've only used my 960 with HDMI (through a Monoprice switcher), and I'm not a gamer, so I can't help too much here.


I just had to comment on what you paid for the set... You paid $500, and you got a $600 gift card? So they essentially paid you $100 to take the set off their hands? Wow! You scored!


Congrats! You'll love the set!


Larry


----------



## wbrett

I think he got the set for 500 on condition of buying a 600 gc. If it were as you said my head would explode from envy. LOL


----------



## LDBecker

Now you tell me! Mine already exploded!


Maybe I misunderstand BB gift cards. They are selling a lot of open box stuff in my area for a set price a little bit under list, but including a gift card when you purchase it. So, "buy a returned $2000 LCD for $1700 and get a $300 gift card" is what I'm seeing a lot of out here (LA area). That's why I read it that way...


Larry


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> I think he got the set for 500 on condition of buying a 600 gc. If it were as you said my head would explode from envy. LOL



Yep I paid 1100$ plus tax but only 500$ went toward the set itself the rest of money went towards Best Buy gift card. These were Best Buy terms. Original terms were 600$ for the set and 600$ gift card, but I haggeled it a bit lol.


For people who don't want to buy gift card they has second option where you pay 900$ for TV only.


They had buch of old CRT on sale like that. I am not sure if it is national wide clearance or not.


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Now you tell me! Mine already exploded!
> 
> 
> Maybe I misunderstand BB gift cards. They are selling a lot of open box stuff in my area for a set price a little bit under list, but including a gift card when you purchase it. So, "buy a returned $2000 LCD for $1700 and get a $300 gift card" is what I'm seeing a lot of out here (LA area). That's why I read it that way...



To be more clear, my receipt says 1199$ for the set minus 100$ open box discount plus free 600$ best buy gift card.

Sorry for confusion lol


----------



## Patfantx

Glad I could help out - did they have the xs955 still left? The scratches on the 960 you got were not noticeable more than a few feet away and probably only with a white background. I thought hard about that but the 970 was $450 after gift card and it had a recent mfg. (9/06) date so I knew it was almost new. You must be a better haggler because I couldn't get any more off the scratched units. I also had some trouble testing the tuner on the 960 because they had the junker setup and connections on them. FYI, that set was at the store for at least 4 months and every time I went by they wouldn't cut the price.


Best Buy seems to be offering gift cards back on the models they are trying to clear out - it keeps the discount money retained at the store. I think for the tubes they are just desperate to clear out shelf and warehouse space.


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Glad I could help out - did they have the xs955 still left?




I am not sure if they had xs955. I was only looking for 34 inch wide screen, so if 955 was different size I most likely missed it. Once I saw the set, I pretty much checked the condition and went straight to the salesman to buy it lol.



> Quote:
> The scratches on the 960 you got were not noticeable more than a few feet away and probably only with a white background.



The scratches are somewhat visible durring the daytime when against white background. I can still see the image underneath them but it looks slightly off in color. At night, I really have to look hard to make them out even against white. I think they are more noticeable at day time due to to sunlight reflecting off screen. Considering they are quite small, they don't bother me much even when I see them.


I asked how long the set have been on display and manager told me no more than 6 months. On bright side, if set has been running fine on display for a while, it will probably run fine in the future(knocks on the wood lol). I didn't check the tuner yet since I have cable.



> Quote:
> I thought hard about that but the 970 was $450 after gift card and it had a recent mfg. (9/06) date so I knew it was almost new.



450$ for 970 is great deal considering they have been going for 999$ untill recently











> Quote:
> Best Buy seems to be offering gift cards back on the models they are trying to clear out - it keeps the discount money retained at the store. I think for the tubes they are just desperate to clear out shelf and warehouse space.



I agree, I got the impression that they try to clear out older tube by any means nessesary.


----------



## jet757f

I think I would have waited to find one through different channels than buying any type of TV with scratches on the screen!! CraigsList will always have these TVs at a lot better price and in better shape. Maybe scratches on the plastic but certainly NOT on the screen itself. Just have to be patient..........people are getting rid of their CRTs all the time now at very reasonable prices.


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> think I would have waited to find one through different channels than buying any type of TV with scratches on the screen!! CraigsList will always have these TVs at a lot better price and in better shape. Maybe scratches on the plastic but certainly NOT on the screen itself. Just have to be patient..........people are getting rid of their CRTs all the time now at very reasonable prices.



hmmm... As I metioned there are only two scratches half inch long and they are thin. At the day time they are not noticeable 90% of time. At night, they are very hard to make out at all even on white, heck I can see the trinitron tube wires better than I see the scratches when I watch the set.


500$ is a great price for that set in my opinion. Also, 2 year Sony's warranty is important to me since this model seems often have problems.


----------



## R8ders2K

FWIW, it got my 960 from Fry's Electronics (Fremont, CA) and it only costed me $330 plus $100 for their 3 year warranty. This was back in October '06.


Open box, so far the only issue that I'm having is HDMI handshaking.


----------



## ckhirnigs113

On the left side of my screen I can see a red outline on everything displayed. Is this a convergence problem? Can I get this fixed under warranty? Thanks, CK


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ckhirnigs113* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> On the left side of my screen I can see a red outline on everything displayed. Is this a convergence problem? Can I get this fixed under warranty? Thanks, CK



You should be able to, yes.


----------



## wbrett

I have that exact same issue, only on the left side.


$440 for a 960! Nobody can beat that!


----------



## ckhirnigs113

Are you going to try and get it fixed? I feel bad calling the same shop that just replaced the whole tube, but this is really getting on my nerves. Anyone know if they can fix this in-home? I don't want to be without a tv for weeks again. Thanks, CK


----------



## wbrett

I just got my 960 in Oct. I love my tv but of course it's not perfect. There are 3 issues that need attention;


Overscan: This is the most noticable and therefore the one I want fixed the most. I think it's probably the thing that's the most out of spec also. When playing a Blu-ray disc with the PS3 the display info on the right (video codec mbps up top & time at the bottom) gets clipped. That's how bad it is.










Geometry: This is the crooked lines right? Doesn't bother me too much but would be great if it could be better.


Convergence: Only noticed this recently when fairly close looking at the icons on the PS3 xmb. Although it's not noticable I imagine it's degrading the picture to some degree.


I'd hate to go without my 960. Hopefully they can work on these things in my home.


Anyone have any experience/suggestions with warranty work in the OKC area?


----------



## SwiftSweeper

I calibrated my set with DVE about a week ago. I always have trouble adjusting Picture and Sharpness settings, so I am hoping that someone will give me feedback regardless these two.


Here are my current settings after the calibration.


Mode: Pro

Picture: 24

Brightness: 30

Color: 34

Hue: 0

Sharpness: 20

Color Temperature: Warm

Clear Edge: Off

Color Axis: Monitor


I must admit I love this TV


----------



## wbrett

As best I can recall...


Mode: Pro - I did pro for a while, switched back to movie after seeing the difference between the 2 on the Open Season menu

Picture: 24 - I think I'm at 34 for BD & DVD, 40 for cable

Brightness: 30 - 31

Color: 34 -31

Hue: 0 - 0

Sharpness: 20 - was around 20 I think using Avia but after reading this thread I'm at 0

Color Temperature: Warm - neutral I think

Clear Edge: Off - off

Color Axis: Monitor - ? de-emphasize red ?


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wbrett* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As best I can recall...
> 
> 
> Mode: Pro - I did pro for a while, switched back to movie after seeing the difference between the 2 on the Open Season menu
> 
> Picture: 24 - I think I'm at 34 for BD & DVD, 40 for cable
> 
> Brightness: 30 - 31
> 
> Color: 34 -31
> 
> Hue: 0 - 0
> 
> Sharpness: 20 - was around 20 I think using Avia but after reading this thread I'm at 0
> 
> Color Temperature: Warm - neutral I think
> 
> Clear Edge: Off - off
> 
> Color Axis: Monitor - ? de-emphasize red ?



Thanks for response


Your settings are quite different from mine.

*Picture*


I didn't want to go high on Picture because I read cnet review for xbr910 (the predecessor of xbr960). In review, they recommended to keep Picture at 30% for HD and 40% for DVDs. I kind of eye balled Picture since I can't see any blooming on DVE's gray scale pattern.

*Sharpness*


I tried it at zero with DVE overscan pattern. The text appeared slightly more blurry on my set with it set to zero though so I went 20. I will try it at zero again and give it more time.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SwiftSweeper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I calibrated my set with DVE about a week ago. I always have trouble adjusting Picture and Sharpness settings, so I am hoping that someone will give me feedback regardless these two.
> 
> 
> Here are my current settings after the calibration.
> 
> 
> Mode: Pro
> 
> Picture: 24
> 
> Brightness: 30
> 
> Color: 34
> 
> Hue: 0
> 
> Sharpness: 20
> 
> Color Temperature: Warm
> 
> Clear Edge: Off
> 
> Color Axis: Monitor
> 
> 
> I must admit I love this TV



Hi,


My settings are slightly different for HD and DVD inputs. They are:


MODE: PRO (both)

PICTURE: 37 (both)

BRIGHTNESS: DVD - 31, HD -25

COLOR: DVD - 39, HD -33

HUE: 0 (both)

SHARPNESS: DVD - 17, HD - 20

COLOR TEMPERATURE: Neutral (both)

CLEAR EDGE: DVD - High, HD - Low

DRC MODE: DVD - Cinamotion, HD - Interlaced (for SD only)

PALETTE: DVD - R 76, C71; HD - R66, C66 (for SD only)

COLOR AXIS: Default (both)

MEMORY MODE: On (both)


Test patterns for high definition are broadcast each Sunday morning at 7:00 AM over INHD so you might want to use that as the basis for your HD setting, while using the DVE for your DVD input (ample time is provided by INHD to make each adjustment).


Enjoy the 960 - it is the best!!!!


----------



## RWetmore

I've had the oportunity to calibrate several of these sets, and values are not transferrable from set to set. In every case, significantly different values were needed to achieve the same levels.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've had the oportunity to calibrate several of these sets, and values are not transferrable from set to set. In every case, significantly different values were needed to achieve the same levels.



Great point - so that's why the differences posted in this forum aren't based on just personal preferences. Thanks.


----------



## CorCentral

I'm thinking about buying this for my father as a retirement gift. I knew about the last Circuit City sale but was a day late ringing in on it! My head still hurts from this!!!!


Anyone know how Circuit City handles these sales?........ Like if there's a certain time between each one or to know when one's coming?


I want to catch this deal but am not paying over 1k shipped for it.


PS: I only order from places where I can "easily" return something. No online crap reseller from NY, where it takes months to return an item and wastes your time. I'd rather pay a little more for an easy local return


----------



## SwiftSweeper

Thanks for info guys.


Indeed, everyone settings seem to be quite different from one another. I was hoping that I would be able to get some rough estimates regardless correct settings.


I will check out INHD patterns. I am not an early riser especially on Sundays, but with help of some coffee I think I will pull through.


----------



## wilbur_the_goose

Let me know if you'd would like the service manual. You can have it for the cost of shipping.


I used it to set my service menu settings.


Just send me a private message.


(I'm in Pennsylvania)


----------



## SwiftSweeper

L


> Quote:
> et me know if you'd would like the service manual. You can have it for the cost of shipping.
> 
> 
> I used it to set my service menu settings.
> 
> 
> Just send me a private message.



Thank you for an offer







, but I think, I will wait a little before I venture into service menu.


I am still missing an original remote. Best Buy gave me Sony's XBR remote, but it is not an original one and it is missing some buttons like picture in picture and index search. I am going to buy one from Sony soon though.


Does anyone know good and inexpensive ambient/back light that is relatively easy to find?


----------



## Immaculate Chimp

I live in Carmel, Indiana. Does anyone know If it is still possible to purchase a brand new KD-34XBR960N (or the older 960) still sealed in the box, and If so possibly order it online &/or be able to have it delivered to my home? *Any and all help you could provide would be greatly appreciated*, beacuse if it is impossible to still acquire them at this point in time I will probably just have to go with the KD-34XBR970.


----------



## jhirsche

check with the Sony outlets... you might also consider the KD-34XS955.... I saw one is a Sears appliance outlet not long ago.


----------



## Tom J

I'd like to try the memory stick feature on my XBR960. Sony's documentation shows a distinction between the supported capacity of the MS PRO and MS PRO DUO.
_"Memory Stick PRO media capability in this product has been tested to support up to *1GB media capacity* (Memory Stick PRO Duo to *512Mb media capacity*)..."_

Does anyone know if a 1GB MS Pro Duo will work in the 960? The reason I ask is that I can pick up a 1GB Pro Duo for LESS than a 512 Pro Duo.


Thanks


----------



## PeterTHX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tom J* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'd like to try the memory stick feature on my XBR960. Sony's documentation shows a distinction between the supported capacity of the MS PRO and MS PRO DUO.
> _"Memory Stick PRO media capability in this product has been tested to support up to *1GB media capacity* (Memory Stick PRO Duo to *512Mb media capacity*)..."_
> 
> Does anyone know if a 1GB MS Pro Duo will work in the 960? The reason I ask is that I can pick up a 1GB Pro Duo for LESS than a 512 Pro Duo.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Yes, it will work just fine. I use one.


----------



## bschmidt25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tom J* /forum/post/0
> 
> Does anyone know if a 1GB MS Pro Duo will work in the 960? The reason I ask is that I can pick up a 1GB Pro Duo for LESS than a 512 Pro Duo.



IIRC, I think the only thing you have to worry about is if the device you are using the memory on is Memory Stick or Memory Stick Pro. MS Pro will not work in the older Memory Stick (non-pro) devices. However, I think any newer MS Pro device (like the 960) can read any variation of memory stick. You just need an adapter for the newer Pro Duo memory because of its smaller size.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi all,


Had a little scare yesterday when discoloration appeared on both sides of the screen as I changed video outputs from HD to DVD.


After I turned the 960 off the magnetism still appeared, so I tried it two or three more times with no avail. Of course, I was afraid the automatic degasser was suddenly not working. I then unplugged for the set for about two minutes and when I turned the set back on to my relief, the discoloration was gone.


The few times this happened in the past all that was necessary was for me to turn the set off and on again. I did not need to unplug the 960. Has anybody else needed to do this as well?


Also, it might be my imagination, but I thought the picture looked more crisper on HD than it did right before the discoloration appeared. Wishful thinking, huh?


Thanks as always,

Joe


----------



## wbrett




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bschmidt25* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You just need an adapter for the newer Pro Duo memory because of its smaller size.



I've only used it once but I'm pretty sure you don't need the adapter.


----------



## pdroth

Anyone have any secrets for speeding up the Digital Channel search? I know it says 50+ minutes to complete but mine often takes well over an hour - closer to 90 minutes.


The part that kills me is that I can't tune to a different input (the STB) to watch something while I wait for the Sony to do its thing.


I'd love to be able to add channels manually but for some reason that doesn't seem to work consistently.


Thanks in advance.


P.S. 2+ years of ownership and absolutely NO regrets. Best TV I've ever bought.


----------



## pdroth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wbrett* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've only used it once but I'm pretty sure you don't need the adapter.



You do need the adapter for Duo sticks.


----------



## wbrett

 960/ms compatibility 


Well I guess Sony and myself are both wrong.


----------



## pdroth

Interesting...


Honestly, I wouldn't think of sticking the DUO in my TV without the adapter. It just doesn't seem like it would come out easily.


----------



## DrOrb

I've had the 960 (not 960N) for 18 months. The picture is really spectacular.


But I've noticed that the AR coating is disappearing in streaks on the left side of the screen. When the program content is dark, the difference in reflectivity is noticable.


Has anyone had the same experience?


DrOrb


----------



## mr2828

No, but I hardly ever wipe off my screen, and am very careful when I do. Have you been cleaning it fairly often or otherwise "stressing" the coating? Have any kids or pets that might be messing with it when you're not there?


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> Had a little scare yesterday when discoloration appeared on both sides of the screen as I changed video outputs from HD to DVD.
> 
> 
> After I turned the 960 off the magnetism still appeared, so I tried it two or three more times with no avail. Of course, I was afraid the automatic degasser was suddenly not working. I then unplugged for the set for about two minutes and when I turned the set back on to my relief, the discoloration was gone.
> 
> 
> The few times this happened in the past all that was necessary was for me to turn the set off and on again. I did not need to unplug the 960. Has anybody else needed to do this as well?
> 
> 
> Also, it might be my imagination, but I thought the picture looked more crisper on HD than it did right before the discoloration appeared. Wishful thinking, huh?
> 
> 
> Thanks as always,
> 
> Joe



Hi, Joe.


I think this was mentioned a hundred pages before...if you unplug your set for a while it apparently "resets" the degausser. I had a similar problem and this cured it. In fact, about twice in the last two years, the set wouldn't turn on. I unplugged it for a few seconds, plugged it in again, and everything was fine again. Guess that's what happens when the TV is part computer!


re: wishful thinking: I think it was, but hey, if it looks better to you, that's what counts!




Mark


----------



## LTRinENC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BTV Mark* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi, Joe.
> 
> 
> I think this was mentioned a hundred pages before...if you unplug your set for a while it apparently "resets" the degausser. I had a similar problem and this cured it. In fact, about twice in the last two years, the set wouldn't turn on. I unplugged it for a few seconds, plugged it in again, and everything was fine again. Guess that's what happens when the TV is part computer!
> 
> 
> re: wishful thinking: I think it was, but hey, if it looks better to you, that's what counts!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark



Just out of curiosity was your 960 plugged in to a surge protector? There are posts, ad nauseum, that surge protectors limit the amount of electricity that is available when the set is turned on which, in turn, compromises functionality of the degausser. Over the past several months a small red stain has been on the usual lower left hand corner of the screen. A couple of days ago I was cleaning around the tv and noticed that it was plugged in to the surge protector. I unplugged it and re-plugged in the wall socket. After turning it on the stain was gone.


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Just out of curiosity was your 960 plugged in to a surge protector? There are posts, ad nauseum, that surge protectors limit the amount of electricity that is available when the set is turned on which, in turn, compromises functionality of the degausser. Over the past several months a small red stain has been on the usual lower left hand corner of the screen. A couple of days ago I was cleaning around the tv and noticed that it was plugged in to the surge protector. I unplugged it and re-plugged in the wall socket. After turning it on the stain was gone.



I have my xbr 960 plugged into surge protector as well so far zero problems. Would not you risk burning up your tv during the thunder storm? I live in TX, and over here, we have frequent storms. Quite a few times, my electricity was shout down due to lighting strikes, so I am a bit vary of plugging it directly into wall unless using surge protector will permanently damage the TV somehow.


----------



## swankerme

Hi all. I bought a XBR960 about a year ago after doing a whole bunch of research (mostly through this board). It has been a great TV, hooked up to up-converting DVD player and HD gaming, but it is time for me to upgrade. I'm looking to go LCD now (so I can connect to my PC). Anyways, I thought I would just throw this out. I'm not sure how big the demand is for these things any more, but mine is up for sale to whoever wants to pick it up. Located in Abilene Texas. Probably $500 and its yours. Email me at [email protected]


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LTRinENC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just out of curiosity was your 960 plugged in to a surge protector? There are posts, ad nauseum, that surge protectors limit the amount of electricity that is available when the set is turned on which, in turn, compromises functionality of the degausser. Over the past several months a small red stain has been on the usual lower left hand corner of the screen. A couple of days ago I was cleaning around the tv and noticed that it was plugged in to the surge protector. I unplugged it and re-plugged in the wall socket. After turning it on the stain was gone.



Nope. A few weeks after we got the 960 the picture wouldn't come on and while speaking to a customer representative I mentioned use of the surge protection and was told to instead have it plugged into the wall, for the exact reason you and I have stated in numerous posts in the past.


I was only worried because in the past turning the set off eliminated the magnetic distortion in the past without need of unplugging the set.


Glad you saw that your 960 was plugged into a surge protector and then changed it to get rid of the blotch.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrOrb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've had the 960 (not 960N) for 18 months. The picture is really spectacular.
> 
> 
> But I've noticed that the AR coating is disappearing in streaks on the left side of the screen. When the program content is dark, the difference in reflectivity is noticable.
> 
> 
> Has anyone had the same experience?
> 
> 
> DrOrb



Not here. To avoid damage such as you described, we gently dust the screen, then use a soft, wet paper towel to clean it. This is followed by use of a soft, dry paper towell to eliminate water streaks.


----------



## gorbag

Just got this set, it's my HDTV


Lovely!


Watching some channels I noticed the station logos on the bottom right sometimes are cut off a bit- this is 'overscan' right? How do I fix it?


----------



## Firstknight_sf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gorbag* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just got this set, it's my HDTV
> 
> 
> Lovely!
> 
> 
> Watching some channels I noticed the station logos on the bottom right sometimes are cut off a bit- this is 'overscan' right? How do I fix it?



Just curious, how and where did you get it? I been trying to find one but I'm almost ready to give up and buy an xbr970.


----------



## Firstknight_sf

Alright this is my final attempt on trying to purchase a 960. I live in San Francisco. I'm sure the Bay Area has MILLIONS of shops that sell tv's and there has to be atleast one that has the 960. I already tried many shops and have failed but I'm sure one is out there. Does anybody have any suggestions???


Any info would be greatly appreciated.










This is my last attempt. If I can't fine one I'm going to purchase the Xbr 970 brand new for $550.


----------



## jet757f




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Firstknight_sf* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Alright this is my final attempt on trying to purchase a 960. I live in San Francisco. I'm sure the Bay Area has MILLIONS of shops that sell tv's and there has to be atleast one that has the 960. I already tried many shops and have failed but I'm sure one is out there. Does anybody have any suggestions???
> 
> 
> Any info would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my last attempt. If I can't fine one I'm going to purchase the Xbr 970 brand new for $550.



My suggestion would be that you be patient and look for one on CraigsList or Ebay. I bought both my 34XBR960N and 36XS955 off CraigsList at great prices and have been happy with both. This couldnt be a better time to buy a CRT TV because people are selling them off to buy LCDs and Plasma TVs. You will be able to get an excellent price to because there are so many on the market right now that people cant get rid of. You will have to be patient and check everyday because the 34XBR960 and 36XS955 do not appear as often, but eventually you will find one especially in your market.


----------



## DJF(NJ)




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Firstknight_sf* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Alright this is my final attempt on trying to purchase a 960. I live in San Francisco. I'm sure the Bay Area has MILLIONS of shops that sell tv's and there has to be atleast one that has the 960. I already tried many shops and have failed but I'm sure one is out there. Does anybody have any suggestions???
> 
> 
> Any info would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my last attempt. If I can't fine one I'm going to purchase the Xbr 970 brand new for $550.



Wow...$550 for a brand new 970 is pretty damned good!


----------



## Firstknight_sf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jet757f* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My suggestion would be that you be patient and look for one on CraigsList or Ebay. I bought both my 34XBR960N and 36XS955 off CraigsList at great prices and have been happy with both. This couldnt be a better time to buy a CRT TV because people are selling them off to buy LCDs and Plasma TVs. You will be able to get an excellent price to because there are so many on the market right now that people cant get rid of. You will have to be patient and check everyday because the 34XBR960 and 36XS955 do not appear as often, but eventually you will find one especially in your market.



Thank you for your reply. I wish shopping for tvs would be much easier and less of a headache. Anyway, I'm a lil afraid of using craigslist because of the horror stories I have read. For example I just found this on craigslist...


Sony High Definition Tuner built in.

Model number KD-34XBR960

Given as a Christmas present (Dec. 2005) and never used.

Mint brand new condition. Purchased at Circuit City for $1800.00


Note: Flat screen but regualar size television not flat panel.

Also Television is very heavy, approx: 196Lbs.

Original box discarded. Has remote and manual.

Cash only.

We will meet you in an Albertson parking lot in South Everett area.

Bring Pickup or van and two to four beefy guys. ...it is heavy!


Never used? Mint condition? He's asking for $750. That sounds like a scam to me. UGH!


----------



## pdroth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Firstknight_sf* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thank you for your reply. I wish shopping for tvs would be much easier and less of a headache. Anyway, I'm a lil afraid of using craigslist because of the horror stories I have read. For example I just found this on craigslist...
> 
> 
> Sony High Definition Tuner built in.
> 
> Model number KD-34XBR960
> 
> Given as a Christmas present (Dec. 2005) and never used.
> 
> Mint brand new condition. Purchased at Circuit City for $1800.00
> 
> 
> Note: Flat screen but regualar size television not flat panel.
> 
> Also Television is very heavy, approx: 196Lbs.
> 
> Original box discarded. Has remote and manual.
> 
> Cash only.
> 
> We will meet you in an Albertson parking lot in South Everett area.
> 
> Bring Pickup or van and two to four beefy guys. ...it is heavy!
> 
> 
> Never used? Mint condition? He's asking for $750. That sounds like a scam to me. UGH!



I bet it won't even power on - hence the pickup at a supermarket parking lot. Beware of that one.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gorbag* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just got this set, it's my HDTV
> 
> 
> Lovely!
> 
> 
> Watching some channels I noticed the station logos on the bottom right sometimes are cut off a bit- this is 'overscan' right? How do I fix it?



Congratulations on being able to get a new 960 - as you can see, there are others in this forum who are quite jealous of you.


Catch the INHD video tests on Sunday mornings at 7:00 AM. Besides test patterns, they give a test for adjusting overscan. Use the vertical correction to make your adjustment.


Also know that station logos and tickers will be cut off a bit on standard definition when using the wide-stretch mode for viewing 4x3.


Good luck and enjoy!!!


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jet757f* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My suggestion would be that you be patient and look for one on CraigsList or Ebay. I bought both my 34XBR960N and 36XS955 off CraigsList at great prices and have been happy with both. This couldnt be a better time to buy a CRT TV because people are selling them off to buy LCDs and Plasma TVs. You will be able to get an excellent price to because there are so many on the market right now that people cant get rid of. You will have to be patient and check everyday because the 34XBR960 and 36XS955 do not appear as often, but eventually you will find one especially in your market.



For myself, I would be leary purchasing an expensive item like the 960 off Ebay or similar sites - one never knows what they're really getting and even if the seller offers a refund or warranty there most likely will be stipulations he or she would use to make it difficult to actually get your money back.


----------



## PurgatoryZ

Hey 960 owners,


I've recently had my TV calibrated by an ISF professional (Chad B. for those who know him). I couldn't be happier, even non HD signals look amazing. Currently I hook all the video sources up directly to the TV, using a BA DT6000 as a HTIAB for audio. However, I'm in the market for a receiver to channel all the video sources I'm racking up and I'm curious if I should be getting it re-calibrated now that the DVD player, 360, direct TV are all going through the receiver (probably a denon 3000+). As long as I use one of the previously calibrated inputs I'm thinking everything will be pretty close, but I wanted to get some opinions on that.


Thanks in advance!


----------



## jet757f




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For myself, I would be leary purchasing an expensive item like the 960 off Ebay or similar sites - one never knows what they're really getting and even if the seller offers a refund or warranty there most likely will be stipulations he or she would use to make it difficult to actually get your money back.



Yes there is some risk involved and you as a buyer have to be careful but in my opinion it is worth it. You have to go to the sellers house and be able to test the TV and then use common sense by just looking at it. The money you have saved is well worth if even if you do have to get repairs over the years or even throw it away. As I said I bought 2 of these and have had no problems over the past year.

You can just about buy one of these for what you would pay for an extended warranty at CC. Do the math.............


----------



## Firstknight_sf

So I emailed the guy that is offering his "mint condition never been used xbr960" and here is his reply...




My sister gave the TV to me in December of 05 for a Christmas present. Bought at Circuit City in Bellevue.


I'm 63 and retired and live in a little trailer of which the door is to small for the TV to fit through.


I have the TV stored at a friend of mines house and he has a TV so it hasn't been used.


We watch a Superbowl game on it and that's it.


I've decided to stay in my trailer for a while longer and it's to big besides not fitting through the door.


Because it was a present from sis I was reluctant to sell it at first but it makes no sense to have it sitting there not being used.


Be aware that is has the hump on the back like an old style TV and is HEAVY (196 LBS) but it is the new format and has all the bells and whistles HD tuner built in and all the goodies. Sony still make the set but the new model is a number higher than this one.

See Sony website for details.


I'm firm on the $750 price ($1,800+) new in 05. Cash only and you get a brand new never used TV.


Just email if you have any more questions.


What do you guys think??? Personally I think this is to good to be true and like some of you have said it might not even turn on. It also looks like I wont be able to test it out. I'll probably skip this offer. Oh man but what if it is true? What do you guys think?


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For myself, I would be leary purchasing an expensive item like the 960 off Ebay or similar sites - one never knows what they're really getting and even if the seller offers a refund or warranty there most likely will be stipulations he or she would use to make it difficult to actually get your money back.



I am with Joseph here. Buying this set off Craiglist or Ebay is too risky in my opinion.


You will loose 2 year XBR warranty, which considering some stories posted here about this set, can come back to bite you later on. Since this set is discontinied, replacement parts like tube might be hard to come by unless the company that is doing the fixing is Sony. Loosing 30 day return policy also hurts. Prices for this TV is all over the place. You can buy this TV cheaper at the store than at Craiglist and vice versa.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SwiftSweeper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You can buy this TV cheaper at the store than at Craiglist and vice versa.



That's the problem... this particular TV simply cannot be found retail anymore.


Essentially "new in a box", but admittedly used to watch a Super Bowl or two? I'm sure it's had a bit more use, but still...


Personally, from his letter I'd buy it in a heartbeat if I were looking for one... but I'm not (since I already own one!). You don't seriously think it won't turn on, do you? Would he be a complete fraud? I know.. .cash-only payment has a bad sound to it, but to be honest $750 would be worth the risk to me, to pick up an essentially brand new XBR960 when they're simply virtually extinct in the retail world.


My XBR960, purchased in March 2005 (for $1800 as well), has never had a problem or a service call (other than the initial two visits during the initial 30-day out-of-the-box period by a Sony technician and then a local service technician, to deal with convergence and geometry problems... fixed to near-perfection by magnets placed on the back of the picture tube). It's now over two years since it arrived.


Even if you have to pay a few hundred dollars should it need factory/service tweaking to make it absolutely perfect (assuming it might not be), you're still way ahead of the game. And you own the absolute best CRT-HD set ever.


If you're seriously looking for an XBR960, and you have a strong table for it and a way to pick it up at the guy's house and bring it to your home, I say go for it. The price is too good to pass up.


But then, that's just me talking. I won't buy stuff that is listed as "a small scratch", or "very clean". But "mint"? I know, it's not new-in-a-box from Sony or a retailer, and there's no factory warranty. So what?


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gorbag* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just got this set, it's my HDTV
> 
> 
> Lovely!
> 
> 
> Watching some channels I noticed the station logos on the bottom right sometimes are cut off a bit- this is 'overscan' right? How do I fix it?



See post #3336 of this thread. DSperber does an excellent job of walking you through it. Some of the links are archived, so you'll have to click on the 01/05-06/06 archive link if you hit a dead end.


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's the problem... this particular TV simply cannot be found retail anymore.



I found two sets in Houston where I live and another two in Texas about a month ago. All sets are from Best Buy store chain and local pick up or local delivery only. Granted, they were not new in box and I bought one of the Houston sets.


----------



## jet757f




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SwiftSweeper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am with Joseph here. Buying this set off Craiglist or Ebay is too risky in my opinion.
> 
> 
> You will loose 2 year XBR warranty, which considering some stories posted here about this set, can come back to bite you later on. Since this set is discontinied, replacement parts like tube might be hard to come by unless the company that is doing the fixing is Sony. Loosing 30 day return policy also hurts. Prices for this TV is all over the place. You can buy this TV cheaper at the store than at Craiglist and vice versa.




This is not necessarily true. I did retain the Sony warranty on the XBR960N that I bought off of CraigsList. Just called them with my name and the receipt. Even got warranty service for a HDMI issue that I had with the TV and they resolved it.

Of course this is not alway the case if the TV is too old. Even if you dont get a warranty as DSperber mentions you are still ahead of the game getting a TV at such a low price even if you do have to do repairs.


I dont know what kind of condition the XBR960 is in that is being sold for $750 but the price sounds too high, especially if it was built in 2005. I would offer him around $500 for the set. CRTs are not that easy to sell these days and he may have a hard time selling it.


----------



## tvh3ad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Firstknight_sf* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What do you guys think??? Personally I think this is to good to be true and like some of you have said it might not even turn on. It also looks like I wont be able to test it out. I'll probably skip this offer. Oh man but what if it is true? What do you guys think?



You can settle the DOA question pretty easily: rent a generator for a couple of hours, bring a set of rabbit ears, and try the set out before you buy.


----------



## bschmidt25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jet757f* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My suggestion would be that you be patient and look for one on CraigsList or Ebay. I bought both my 34XBR960N and 36XS955 off CraigsList at great prices and have been happy with both. This couldnt be a better time to buy a CRT TV because people are selling them off to buy LCDs and Plasma TVs. You will be able to get an excellent price to because there are so many on the market right now that people cant get rid of. You will have to be patient and check everyday because the 34XBR960 and 36XS955 do not appear as often, but eventually you will find one especially in your market.



I agree. I got mine off of eBay through Circuit City and I couldn't be happier either. It was a steal at $375!


----------



## gorbag




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Congratulations on being able to get a new 960 - as you can see, there are others in this forum who are quite jealous of you.




Yeah I see! To the other fella: This was actually a 'hand me down' from my brother. He's upgraded to something else, I don't know what exactly. It's bigger and it's Sony that's all I know. Therefore how/where/how much I got it for won't really help anyone else who's still on the hunt. Sorry!



I'm surprised to see this 'following' on this set too. It's amazing that people are seeking out this older set (a rarity at least in technology terms no!?) Looks like my brother knew what he was doing.



Thanks for the tips!




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LongRufus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> See post #3336 of this thread. DSperber does an excellent job of walking you through it. Some of the links are archived, so you'll have to click on the 01/05-06/06 archive link if you hit a dead end.



Will do, thanks!


----------



## Firstknight_sf

Thanks for the info everybody...here is my continuing saga...


I emailed the guy again if I can test the tv and here is his reply...


I'll have to let you know as the friends that have the TV were a little nervous about a lot of strangers coming to the house. Let me see what we can work out and I'll email you back.


Tuesdays or Wednesdays are best for pick up in day or early evening.


I'll let you know in a couple days. I'm busy with some personal things right now.


I understand you wanting to see that it works and the picture quality etc.


Best,


Don


I sure am going thru alot of trouble trying to get this tv set. My question is it really worth it??? I would need to rent a van, drive about 12 hours, maybe rent a generator to test it, all for the price of a $750 used set. And if I'm not mistaken, Sony didn't put the super fine pitch tube in the 970 because it has a high failure rate. So it looks like alot of trouble to get the 960 when I can just buy a 970 brand new for $550 and have it delivered for free. I sit 10 feet away from the set...would I even be able to see the extra detail of the 960??? UGH...why does tv shopping have to be so hard?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Firstknight_sf* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I sure am going thru alot of trouble trying to get this tv set. My question is it really worth it???



Short answer: yes.


If you're looking for a set of this 34" size, because you don't have the room for something larger, or just don't want to go larger, or can't afford anything larger, or don't like LCD or plasma or DLP, or really want a CRT... then THIS IS THE BEST 34' CONSUMER CRT HDTV THAT'S EVER BEEN SOLD!


Based on serious reviews (e.g. The Perfect Vision) I bought a Sampo 34WHD5 back in 2001 (yeah, I know, you probably never heard of it) because it was raved about as the absolute most magnificent CRT HDTV... truly reference quality. And I agree, it was fantastic. Stunning. Truly Stunning.


And then in Feb.2005 it died. Picture tube simply gave out, and since the manufacturer had stopped making the set and there were no parts or qualified service, I had to give it up. Couldn't replace it, and couldn't repair it. So I searched for the "next reference quality top-of-the-mountain absolute best there is" CRT set of the same 34" size. And all of the newer reviews raved about the 34XBR960, just as they had four years earlier about the Sampo.


So I went for it. And I am glad I did, and lucky that I have had the last two years of stunning viewing experience instead of something inferior (e.g. I also looked at the RCA F3810). I cannot rave enough about this Sony set.


All I can tell you is that it is truly a genuinely remarkable viewing experience (assuming you're planning on sitting 5-7' from the screen and are not unhappy about that). It looks like absolute reality, not TV. Absolutely 3D-like and film-like, not like any TV you've ever seen before.


Trust me, if you're looking for a 34" set this is the one for you. Since it's a CRT it may (or may not, but likely will) require a bit of adjusting and tweaking (by a professional or by yourself) but once properly adjusted your jaw will drop when you watch Leno, or Saturday Night Live, or Rome, or Lost, or CSI, etc..




> Quote:
> I would need to rent a van, drive about 12 hours, maybe rent a generator to test it, all for the price of a $750 used set.



"Very very low mileage". If you can't buy one new-in-a-box, very very low mileage is the next best.


I recently paid a very high price on eBay for a Sony TCD-D100 DAT Walkman (final top-of-the-line consumer version DAT-corder that replaced their top-of-the-line WM-D6C Walkman Pro analog cassette recorder), because it was supposedly nearly unused and still had the original carton and packaging and all of the original accessories, including user manual. I wanted it, I'd been waiting for one to become available that was in near-perfect condition, Sony doesn't make it any more, it's a seller's market at this point (10 years after the product was available retail), and "very low mileage" is the best you're going to get once you shop for used items.


Ideally, you'd be able to find a similar set available around the corner in your neighborhood, from a retailer open-box or used from someone. In your case, the set is unfortunately a bit far away, although it is being offered at a very attractive price.




> Quote:
> And if I'm not mistaken, Sony didn't put the super fine pitch tube in the 970 because it has a high failure rate.



Now I don't know for sure, but I don't think this was the reason they changed the tube.


I believe they were looking to get out of the CRT-HDTV business in the near future anyway, probably were looking to cut costs and reduce price of the lesser-quality product they were planning to use to close out the line, and maybe had a production issue with their supply chain for the SFP tube.


I don't think a "high failure rate" is the reason the XBR970 doesn't have an SFP tube. I may be wrong here (though I think not), but given a choice of both I don't think any AVS member on this thread would choose the 970 over the 960.




> Quote:
> So it looks like alot of trouble to get the 960 when I can just buy a 970 brand new for $550 and have it delivered for free.



If price is really the driving factor here, save the $200 and go with a brand new 970. But there's a reason why a brand new 970 will cost you only $500: it costs less to make the set since the features and parts inside are not the same as you'll find in a 960.


Believe me... this are not identical sets. The 960 is the better of the two, and the SFP tube is part of the reason why. Same as with CRT computer monitors, where a .24mm tube is much sharper and crisper than a .28mm tube, though both may be Sony Trinitrons.




> Quote:
> I sit 10 feet away from the set...would I even be able to see the extra detail of the 960???



Perhaps not.


----------



## patsan

Too bad you didn't live in NY...I'd sell you mine.

I really don't think this set is the next best thing since sliced bread.

I'm not that impressed with this set at all. The picture is good, but nothing spectacular.


----------



## Firstknight_sf

Thanks for the reply DSperber










Well I figure I have about a month to keep on searching before they run out of brand new 970s around my area. I just came back from Sears near my area and I almost had an orgasm. I saw a out of the box sony 34 inch widescreen in the corner that was away from the new 970s. Well it was a 955 but it looked pretty beat up. Scratches everywhere, esp the tube. Asking price was for $1100.


The search continues....Damn I feel like I'm in Indiana Jones searching for the Holy Grail


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *patsan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Too bad you didn't live in NY...I'd sell you mine.
> 
> I really don't think this set is the next best thing since sliced bread.
> 
> I'm not that impressed with this set at all. The picture is good, but nothing spectacular.



Agreed.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Agreed.



I think you're not wow'ed because of its small size.


However visually, sitting in the dark and 4-7' from the set, to me when I watch a movie it's like watching a real film in a real movie theater with a small screen. And when I watch a live show (e.g. Leno or SNL) it's like looking through a window.


Size matters, and this set is definitely small by HDTV standards. But picture-wise (assuming the set is properly adjusted and tweaked and not simply plugged in out of the box with expectations that it will be perfect or that it is supposed to be perfect direct from the factory) my feeling is that there is nothing like it. Absolutely perfect color, human flesh tones, edges, textures... just perfect. It looks real, not like TV.


For example... setting SHARPNESS=MIN makes an enormous difference when watching HD content. If you're not set that way, I'm not surprised you would say "nothing special" about the picture.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think you're not wow'ed because of its small size.
> 
> 
> However visually, sitting in the dark and 4-7' from the set, to me when I watch a movie it's like watching a real film in a real movie theater with a small screen. And when I watch a live show (e.g. Leno or SNL) it's like looking through a window.
> 
> 
> Size matters, and this set is definitely small by HDTV standards. But picture-wise (assuming the set is properly adjusted and tweaked and not simply plugged in out of the box with expectations that it will be perfect or that it is supposed to be perfect direct from the factory) my feeling is that there is nothing like it. Absolutely perfect color, human flesh tones, edges, textures... just perfect. It looks real, not like TV.
> 
> 
> For example... setting SHARPNESS=MIN makes an enormous difference when watching HD content. If you're not set that way, I'm not surprised you would say "nothing special" about the picture.



Agreed - the 960 is the best set out, even with the advances made by LCD, plasma and DLP the past few years. Even Crutchfield says Plasma are as close as one can get to CRT quality which, translated, means CRT still offers the best of all picture formats. And of all the CRTS, the 960 is by far the best.


Last year my wife and I took in a night game at Shea Stadium on a beautiful evening and recorded it on our DVR-HD. We sat behind home plate in the Mezzanine section so our vantage point was the same as the home plate television camera. When we watched the replay the 960's picture was just as crisp and natural looking as it was at the stadium. Except for the obvious three-dimensional depth that television has yet to accomplish the similarity was just unbelievable!


In our current room configuation, the 960 gives the illusion of watching a 37 inch flat screen mounted on the wall. Remember, we need to sit closer to the 960 due to it's depth - and the further the distance, the smaller the picture appears. Our's is less than six feet away from the sofa. A flat panel mounted on the appropriate wall would be 8-1/2 feet away (because the 960 is 26 inches deep and about six inches off the wall). The same principle that determines how large the screen appears in a movie theater applies to our home theaters as well. Sit in the middle rows and the picture is bigger than it appears for those sitting toward the back. If one had a 40 inch flat panel on the wall it might only look like a 37 inch unit closer up - that's less than 10% bigger than the 960.


I used to have the HD sharpness down to near zero, however, after better learning how to tweak the DRC palette I was able to raise the sharpness to about 17 without any grain or harshness and it's still way below the medium setting of about 32.


So the picture is the best and the size appears close to that of a 37 inch flat screen and a little smaller than a 40 unit. Not a bad trade off for such bulky a unit.


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Agreed - the 960 is the best set out, even with the advances made by LCD, plasma and DLP the past few years. Even Crutchfield says Plasma are as close as one can get to CRT quality which, translated, means CRT still offers the best of all picture formats. And of all the CRTS, the 960 is by far the best.



As long as you don't want to go beyond 34". Hard to watch at 1.5 times screen width.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I used to have the HD sharpness down to near zero, however, after better learning how to tweak the DRC palette I was able to raise the sharpness to about 17 without any grain or harshness and it's still way below the medium setting of about 32.



The 14-17 sharpness seems appropriate. Sony sharpness settings definitely can go beyond "no-edge enhancement" and become too soft.


----------



## Firstknight_sf

Okay FANTASTIC NEWS!!!!! I FOUND ONE ON SALE CLOSE TO ME!!!! Check this out, this is his ad...


So why am I selling it? Two reasons: First it's a big, heavy tube TV and doesn't fit very well in the space I have. Second, the anti-glare coating is damaged, probably by something like Windex. Through the web I found that this is a pretty common problem with newer models and Sony won't fix it. I removed at least half the coating but decided that there was too much glare from all the windows in my family room, and I wanted a smaller TV anyway. There's lots of info about this anti-glare coating problem and how to deral with it on the net, like at http://www.ehow.com/tips_940.html . So that's why the price is so low, but I figure there must be a few people out there who would consider this a big time score for the low price. Please let me know if you're interested. Thanks. Steve


It's 2 years old and he's asking for $200. What do you guys think? Is it possible to completly remove the anti-glare coating without leaving a mark??? One thing I cant stand is scratches on the tube.


----------



## pdroth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Firstknight_sf* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Okay FANTASTIC NEWS!!!!! I FOUND ONE ON SALE CLOSE TO ME!!!! Check this out, this is his ad...
> 
> 
> So why am I selling it? Two reasons: First it's a big, heavy tube TV and doesn't fit very well in the space I have. Second, the anti-glare coating is damaged, probably by something like Windex. Through the web I found that this is a pretty common problem with newer models and Sony won't fix it. I removed at least half the coating but decided that there was too much glare from all the windows in my family room, and I wanted a smaller TV anyway. There's lots of info about this anti-glare coating problem and how to deral with it on the net, like at http://www.ehow.com/tips_940.html . So that's why the price is so low, but I figure there must be a few people out there who would consider this a big time score for the low price. Please let me know if you're interested. Thanks. Steve
> 
> 
> It's 2 years old and he's asking for $200. What do you guys think? Is it possible to completly remove the anti-glare coating without leaving a mark??? One thing I cant stand is scratches on the tube.



In my opinion, for $200 you cannot go wrong. Snap that sucker up before someone else does!!


Makes me jealous - I paid $2300 (incl tax and delivery) for mine and another $300 for ISF calibration. I would buy this one in a minute just for the parts!!


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Firstknight_sf* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Okay FANTASTIC NEWS!!!!! I FOUND ONE ON SALE CLOSE TO ME!!!! Check this out, this is his ad...
> 
> 
> So why am I selling it? Two reasons: First it's a big, heavy tube TV and doesn't fit very well in the space I have. Second, the anti-glare coating is damaged, probably by something like Windex. Through the web I found that this is a pretty common problem with newer models and Sony won't fix it. I removed at least half the coating but decided that there was too much glare from all the windows in my family room, and I wanted a smaller TV anyway. There's lots of info about this anti-glare coating problem and how to deral with it on the net, like at http://www.ehow.com/tips_940.html . So that's why the price is so low, but I figure there must be a few people out there who would consider this a big time score for the low price. Please let me know if you're interested. Thanks. Steve
> 
> 
> It's 2 years old and he's asking for $200. What do you guys think? Is it possible to completly remove the anti-glare coating without leaving a mark??? One thing I cant stand is scratches on the tube.



The antiglare coating can be removed. There is thread about it on this board. As long as the glass underneath the coating isn't scratched you should be fine.


I removed my coating, and it improved the PQ quite a bit.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think you're not wow'ed because of its small size.
> 
> 
> However visually, sitting in the dark and 4-7' from the set, to me when I watch a movie it's like watching a real film in a real movie theater with a small screen. And when I watch a live show (e.g. Leno or SNL) it's like looking through a window.
> 
> 
> Size matters, and this set is definitely small by HDTV standards. But picture-wise (assuming the set is properly adjusted and tweaked and not simply plugged in out of the box with expectations that it will be perfect or that it is supposed to be perfect direct from the factory) my feeling is that there is nothing like it. Absolutely perfect color, human flesh tones, edges, textures... just perfect. It looks real, not like TV.
> 
> 
> For example... setting SHARPNESS=MIN makes an enormous difference when watching HD content. If you're not set that way, I'm not surprised you would say "nothing special" about the picture.



My problem with this set and direct view CRTs in general are primarily two things:


1. The native interlaced scanning, which causes judder and interlaced flicker.

2. The brighter I make the set, the more judder and less well it is focused.


I don't watch with any edge-enhancement. I keep sharpness at min and turn off velocity scan modulation in Pro mode. The shading and color are unsurpassed, but I look forward to the advantages of the coming fixed pixel displays like SED and OLED that will eliminate focus and judder/flicker problems.


----------



## GlenC

I don't recall ever having sharpness set to minimum on the Sony 910/960/970. Sony's sharpness control works both ways adds edge enhancement and overly reduces (softens). It is important to find the mid point where EE is zero.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GlenC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't recall ever having sharpness set to minimum on the Sony 910/960/970. Sony's sharpness control works both ways adds edge enhancement and overly reduces (softens). It is important to find the mid point where EE is zero.



I may be wrong (since you're the real engineer here), but in my experience SHARPNESS=MIN on the HD inputs is where EE=zero. It seems to be different on SD inputs, if only based on visual observations, where some non-zero sharpness actually seems to produce EE of seemingly zero.


I am talking about SHARPNESS=MIN on the HD INPUT5/6 component and HDMI INPUT7, along with and firewire/ATSC. In my opinion and experimentation, having sharpness set to anything other than MIN when watching HD source content results in visual artifacts around edges which are completely absent with MIN. Sharpness is something added to the actual content, that is not there in the actual content. The XBR960 can reproduce the actual HD content perfectly, to my eye, with SHARPNESS=MIN.


Now on the other hand, on SD INPUT1/3 (also the only place where DRC, as was mentioned above justifying non-MIN sharpness, is functional) I agree that the softening of SHARPNESS=MIN can actually produce what I'll even call blurring! So I agree, non-zero sharpness is appropriate here. I pass my D*-provided SD and OTA-provided SD content through two S-VHS VCRs on their way to my XBR960 (although I generally do not watch SD on this set) and have SHARPNESS=19 on one input and SHARPNESS=21 on the other. This, coupled with DRC=PROGRESSIVE, gives me excellent SD picture results.


But ever since my Sampo 34WHD5 and my "tweaking training" using DVE, I've always had SHARPNESS=MIN on HD inputs. Initially, it looks wrong, or at least "different" from what you're used to.


However once you've gotten used to the absence of edge-enhancement, and when watching something like the individual diamond-shaped scales on a snake as it slithers along on the desert floot, on 1080i on DiscHD, from a camera 2 feet away from the snake in bright sunlight, and thinking my XBR960 was an open window into a real scene I was watching inside... I know I've got sharpness set the way nature intended it to be for HD content.


----------



## wbrett




> Quote:
> Now on the other hand, on SD INPUT1/3 (also the only place where DRC, as was mentioned above justifying non-MIN sharpness, is functional) I agree that the softening of SHARPNESS=MIN *can actually produce what I'll even call blurring!* So I agree, non-zero sharpness is appropriate here. I pass my D*-provided SD and OTA-provided SD content through two S-VHS VCRs on their way to my XBR960 (although I generally do not watch SD on this set) and have SHARPNESS=19 on one input and SHARPNESS=21 on the other. This, coupled with DRC=PROGRESSIVE, gives me excellent SD picture results.



Thanks for this. I'll be experimenting tonight. What do you have the DRC settings on?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wbrett* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for this. I'll be experimenting tonight. What do you have the DRC settings on?



As noted above, I have DRC=PROGRESSIVE set on both inputs.


I did not experiment with or change any of the default factory DRC Palette settings, so they are still at Custom 1: reality=25, clarity=1.


I'm satisfied with the results, with SHARPNESS=19 and SHARPNESS=21 on both of these inputs.


Also, these settings for sharpness are directly related to the sources I have connected to INPUT1/3 (S-video). In the case of D* on one of them (S-video), I consider that to be a very high-quality SD input. The other one gets SD from my TWC DVR (also S-video) I'd rate that not quite as good as the D* version, but still very high quality. If you have lesser or better quality SD sources, your settings may change from mine.


Remember... this is SD, not HD, so "satisfied" is the best I can say. Whatever looks best is the right setting.


----------



## wbrett

Thanks again.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I may be wrong (since you're the real engineer here), but in my experience SHARPNESS=MIN on the HD inputs is where EE=zero. It seems to be different on SD inputs, if only based on visual observations, where some non-zero sharpness actually seems to produce EE of seemingly zero.
> 
> 
> I am talking about SHARPNESS=MIN on the HD INPUT5/6 component and HDMI INPUT7, along with and firewire/ATSC. In my opinion and experimentation, having sharpness set to anything other than MIN when watching HD source content results in visual artifacts around edges which are completely absent with MIN. Sharpness is something added to the actual content, that is not there in the actual content. The XBR960 can reproduce the actual HD content perfectly, to my eye, with SHARPNESS=MIN.



This is what I have found also.


----------



## Firstknight_sf

This is my final question before I make my decision on a used 960 or a new 970. I will be about 10 feet away from the screen. Would I be able to see the extra detail of a 960 over a 970???


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I may be wrong (since you're the real engineer here), but in my experience SHARPNESS=MIN on the HD inputs is where EE=zero. It seems to be different on SD inputs, if only based on visual observations, where some non-zero sharpness actually seems to produce EE of seemingly zero.
> 
> 
> I am talking about SHARPNESS=MIN on the HD INPUT5/6 component and HDMI INPUT7, along with and firewire/ATSC. In my opinion and experimentation, having sharpness set to anything other than MIN when watching HD source content results in visual artifacts around edges which are completely absent with MIN. Sharpness is something added to the actual content, that is not there in the actual content. The XBR960 can reproduce the actual HD content perfectly, to my eye, with SHARPNESS=MIN.
> 
> 
> Now on the other hand, on SD INPUT1/3 (also the only place where DRC, as was mentioned above justifying non-MIN sharpness, is functional) I agree that the softening of SHARPNESS=MIN can actually produce what I'll even call blurring! So I agree, non-zero sharpness is appropriate here. I pass my D*-provided SD and OTA-provided SD content through two S-VHS VCRs on their way to my XBR960 (although I generally do not watch SD on this set) and have SHARPNESS=19 on one input and SHARPNESS=21 on the other. This, coupled with DRC=PROGRESSIVE, gives me excellent SD picture results.
> 
> 
> But ever since my Sampo 34WHD5 and my "tweaking training" using DVE, I've always had SHARPNESS=MIN on HD inputs. Initially, it looks wrong, or at least "different" from what you're used to.
> 
> 
> However once you've gotten used to the absence of edge-enhancement, and when watching something like the individual diamond-shaped scales on a snake as it slithers along on the desert floot, on 1080i on DiscHD, from a camera 2 feet away from the snake in bright sunlight, and thinking my XBR960 was an open window into a real scene I was watching inside... I know I've got sharpness set the way nature intended it to be for HD content.



Zero edge enhancement is the goal. Sony adds different levels of EE depending on viewing mode (Vivid, Natural, Pro, etc.). In the Pro/Movie modes, EE is at a minimum and setting the user control to minimum can result in over softening the picture. Having the ability to input a HD test pattern designed for setting sharpness is the easiest way to set the proper level of sharpness resulting in near zero EE effect. In the past, many TVs were properly set with sharpness set to "0", this is not always true today and with Sonys.


----------



## RalphArch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Firstknight_sf* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is my final question before I make my decision on a used 960 or a new 970. I will be about 10 feet away from the screen. Would I be able to see the extra detail of a 960 over a 970???




Depends on your eyesight - but you won't see much extra at that distance


see this chart:

http://www.carltonbale.com/2006/11/1080p-does-matter/


----------



## gregtro

Hi,

I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem.


What's happening is that at times the unit will shut off.


I've had two of the boards replaced and now they have ordered a third to try.


Also when this happens the standby light blinks 6-7 times.


Has anyone else experienced this ?


Thanks,


Greg


----------



## Firstknight_sf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RalphArch* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Depends on your eyesight - but you won't see much extra at that distance
> 
> 
> see this chart:
> 
> http://www.carltonbale.com/2006/11/1080p-does-matter/



Great article Ralph, Thanks










Since I'm sitting about 10 feet away from the tv, I'm thinking on purchasing a brand new 970 over a used 960. I'm still going to wait on an email reply from this guy with the 2 year old 960 with coating scraches. I asked to see pics of his tube. We'll see what happends. But I'm slowly turning to the 970. The 960 is just to much trouble to find and to much risk. Besides, I'm currently using a Sony 32 STANDARD tv and I always thought it had great PQ. So either case, it will be an upgrade. Thanks for all the help everybody.


----------



## RalphArch

Consider the audio also - my KD36xs955 has a built in subwoofer also - as I believe the 960 does as well


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RalphArch* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Consider the audio also - my KD36xs955 has a built in subwoofer also - as I believe the 960 does as well



My own opinion of the audio in the 960 is that it is sub-par, including its sub-woofer. I had a Sampo 34WHD5 previously and the built-in subwoofer was really something, as were the side speakers. All in all the audio out of that set was terrific and while I could also listen through my external receiver and speakers I had no complaints about listening directly to the TV if I didn't want to be bothered.


When I got the 960 I was very disappointed with its audio, if only by comparison with the Sampo which was so much superior. Very much so.


My solution (aside from listening to anything of consequence through my Stax Omega-I headphones (via optical digital audio-out from DVR/DVD/D-VHS -> optical digital audio-in of Pioneer DIR-SE1000C Dolby Headphone -> analog L/R of DBX 14/10 EQ -> Stax SRM-T1S headphone amp -> Stax Omega-I) is that I turned off the set's speakers via settings and when I'm not listening through headphones I listen through external speakers fed from audio-out of the 960. Not a real DD5.1 external receiver and speakers, just a modestly sized but excellent sounding 2.1 powered speaker system.


Specifically I use an Altec-Lansing 621 speaker system (2 satellites plus large sub-woofer) that I used to have connected to one of my computers before replacing it with an even better Altec-Lansing 641 system. These 621 speakers are terrific (genuine audio quality, surprising really... naturally they're not made or sold anymore, having been replaced by small and cheap crap from "the NEW Altec-Lansing" company).


Thanks to the basically flat and deep enough top edge of the 960, I sit the two satellites on the left and right ends of the top edge. I've positioned the sub-woofer standing up on the floor directly behind the table that the 960 is sitting on. Sounds great.


I've actually got the 960's line-level analog audio-out going to the analog audio-in of the DIR-SE1000C, which then goes on to the DBX and Stax gear just like digital audio decoded through Dolby Headphone does. So I can listen to the analog audio from my SD INPUT1/3 sources through the same headphone arrangement if I want to.


Normal configuration for listening to digital audio sources is for the line-out of my SRM-T1S headphone amp to go to the main line-in of the 621 (with the DIR-SE1000C set to 2-channel PCM stereo mode), so I can listen to digital audio sources in 2-channel stereo through the external 621 speaker system instead of requiring that I use my headphones.


But back to the point... I felt the built-in speakers of the 960 were unsatisfactory for my tastes and needed replacing. Using my spare Altec-Lansing 621 computer speaker system as the solution turns out to have been a great idea.


----------



## Firstknight_sf

Ladies and Gentlemen, I have found an xbr960 open box at a circuit city near by which I have already put on hold and will be purchasing tomorrow. The salesman said he didn't see any major marks or scratches. But if all goes well, I'll be setting up my xbr960 tomorrow night. I DID IT!!!!!!!! Searching and searching and searching. I actually took over the offices at Circuit city and called every single circuit city in California to find one. After calling every single one.......guess which one had it???? The last listing. The very last number on the 100+ list had it. Wow, funny how things workout sometimes.


I also found a KD36xs955 in Daly City if anybody is interested. Looked like it was in great condition but way to big for me. Anyway thanks for everybodys help. If anybody is interested in the info of my previous posts on the other xbr960s I found, just let me know and I'll pass the email to you.


----------



## UWisconsin97




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Firstknight_sf* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ladies and Gentlemen, I have found an xbr960 open box at a circuit city near by which I have already put on hold and will be purchasing tomorrow. The salesman said he didn't see any major marks or scratches. But if all goes well, I'll be setting up my xbr960 tomorrow night. I DID IT!!!!!!!! Searching and searching and searching. I actually took over the offices at Circuit city and called every single circuit city in California to find one. After calling every single one.......guess which one had it???? The last listing. The very last number on the 100+ list had it. Wow, funny how things workout sometimes.
> 
> 
> I also found a KD36xs955 in Daly City if anybody is interested. Looked like it was in great condition but way to big for me. Anyway thanks for everybodys help. If anybody is interested in the info of my previous posts on the other xbr960s I found, just let me know and I'll pass the email to you.



May I ask how much? I've done some searching myself, and couldn't find any within 50 miles..


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Firstknight_sf* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ladies and Gentlemen, I have found an xbr960 open box at a circuit city near by which I have already put on hold and will be purchasing tomorrow. The salesman said he didn't see any major marks or scratches. But if all goes well, I'll be setting up my xbr960 tomorrow night. I DID IT!!!!!!!! Searching and searching and searching. I actually took over the offices at Circuit city and called every single circuit city in California to find one. After calling every single one.......guess which one had it???? The last listing. The very last number on the 100+ list had it. Wow, funny how things workout sometimes.
> 
> 
> I also found a KD36xs955 in Daly City if anybody is interested. Looked like it was in great condition but way to big for me. Anyway thanks for everybodys help. If anybody is interested in the info of my previous posts on the other xbr960s I found, just let me know and I'll pass the email to you.



I hope the xbr 960 is in good condition. You surely deserve one after all this effort.










To me xbr 960 sound was quite a big step up from my xbr 970. Sure it is not as good as surround system, but I do not have space for surround system since xbr 960 is my bedroom set, so built in subwoofer is big big plus in my case. In the end, it all worked out nicely. Xbr 970 went into my living room where I hooked it up to surround system. Xbr 960 makes a perfect bedroom set for me since I have to sit much closer due to space constrains. Where are HDTVs with better bult in sound sure, but xbr 960 sound still probably better than majority of HDTVs with this screen size and under.



> Quote:
> I don't recall ever having sharpness set to minimum on the Sony 910/960/970. Sony's sharpness control works both ways adds edge enhancement and overly reduces (softens). It is important to find the mid point where EE is zero.
> 
> Yesterday 07:53 AM




I agree with GlenC. I found that with sharpness =0 in pro mode the picture and especially text became too blurry to my liking when I was calibrating the xbr 960 with DVE. Sharpness at 15 seemed more correct to me. That is being said. I am just getting into whole calibration thing so take it with grain of salt.


----------



## Firstknight_sf

Thank you Swift, I'm hoping it's in good condition also. Just one final question. Now I know the 960 plays better HD programming but what about standard dvds? Does standard dvds look better on the 960 compared to the 970? I owned about 300 dvds and since my dvds are not HD, I was worried that it will look the same as the 970.


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Firstknight_sf* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thank you Swift, I'm hoping it's in good condition also. Just one final question. Now I know the 960 plays better HD programming but what about standard dvds? Does standard dvds look better on the 960 compared to the 970? I owned about 300 dvds and since my dvds are not HD, I was worried that it will look the same as the 970.



My main problem with xbr 970 that from around 6-5 feet, I start to notice vertical slits that make up the set horizontal resolution running through the screen from one side to the other. On xbr 960, I need to be around 2 feet to notice the slits. Even though, DVDs have 852 x 480, which is essentially the same horizontal resolution that xbr 970 has, the image that xbr 960 produces from DVDs is smoother at 5-6 feet and under. I think, it is due to the fact that horizontal resolution is fixed or for the lack of the better word hardwired on Sony's sets. That is being said, the DVDs resolution is still not that high, so chances are that many people will end up watching the DVDs from 6 feet and farther, which does not give any advantage to xbr 960 when it come to displaying DVDs. I hope that it makes sense.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Firstknight_sf* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Great article Ralph, Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I'm sitting about 10 feet away from the tv, I'm thinking on purchasing a brand new 970 over a used 960. I'm still going to wait on an email reply from this guy with the 2 year old 960 with coating scraches. I asked to see pics of his tube. We'll see what happends. But I'm slowly turning to the 970. The 960 is just to much trouble to find and to much risk. Besides, I'm currently using a Sony 32 STANDARD tv and I always thought it had great PQ. So either case, it will be an upgrade. Thanks for all the help everybody.



Since you'll be about ten feet away, have you considered a larger non-CRT set in lieu of a used 960 or 970? A friend of mine sits about the same distance from his 34 inch screen and in my opinion it is too small for a real home theater feel. I have seen Sony's 42 inch LCD and the picture quality was superb, considering the fact that no LCD provides the illusion of depth that the 960 has. The negative is that it does cost a lot more than the 970.


----------



## UWisconsin97




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Since you'll be about ten feet away, have you considered a larger non-CRT set in lieu of a used 960 or 970? A friend of mine sits about the same distance from his 34 inch screen and in my opinion it is too small for a real home theater feel. I have seen Sony's 42 inch LCD and the picture quality was superb, considering the fact that no LCD provides the illusion of depth that the 960 has. The negative is that it does cost a lot more than the 970.




That's why for $600, I couldn't pass it up.










I was considering a 1080p Sharp Aquos LCD..


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Originally Posted by Firstknight_sf

"Thank you Swift, I'm hoping it's in good condition also. Just one final question. Now I know the 960 plays better HD programming but what about standard dvds? Does standard dvds look better on the 960 compared to the 970? I owned about 300 dvds and since my dvds are not HD, I was worried that it will look the same as the 970."


Check to see if the 970 has the same line doubling system as the 960. The 960 upconverts 480i material to 960i, which (according to the manual) makes the material appear four times sharper. Can vouch that DVDs look great on the 960 and don't know how Star Wars two and three could look any better, even on HD or Blue Ray.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *UWisconsin97* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's why for $600, I couldn't pass it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was considering a 1080p Sharp Aquos LCD..



My brother is considering the same set but is waiting till prices fall even further than they already have. Is ten feet the actual distance from the screen to your sitting area or from the wall to your viewing area? The 960 is 26 inches deep and if you're talking wall to sofa, keeping it another eight inches off the wall would knock down the distance to almost seven feet.


----------



## UWisconsin97




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My brother is considering the same set but is waiting till prices fall even further than they already have. Is ten feet the actual distance from the screen to your sitting area or from the wall to your viewing area? The 960 is 26 inches deep and if you're talking wall to sofa, keeping it another eight inches off the wall would knock down the distance to almost seven feet.



I'm about 4 feet away, and my 970 is absolutely stunning.. I considered 1080p because I sit so close to my TV..


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *UWisconsin97* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm about 4 feet away, and my 970 is absolutely stunning.. I considered 1080p because I sit so close to my TV..



Stick to the 970 - CRT still provides more punch than any LCD or Plasma.


----------



## UWisconsin97




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Stick to the 970 - CRT still provides more punch than any LCD or Plasma.



I will second THAT!










I wouldn't trade my CRT for any LCD or cheaper plasma. The picture WOW's me EVERY time I turn it on...


----------



## 1000 Umbrellas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *UWisconsin97* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm about 4 feet away, and my 970 is absolutely stunning.. I considered 1080p because I sit so close to my TV..



4ft.? Good Lord man that's close. As a kid, I was routinely scolded for sitting to close to the tv, "your going to ruin your eyes" as my Mother would say. I sit about 6-7 feet from my 960 which I find to be a comfortable viewing distance. Anything more than that, as much as I dearly love my 960, I would have to start looking at a plasma. LCD's are out of the question. I can't put my finger on it but there is something about them that "don't look right", like something is missing, there is "no there, there". As for as SD DVD viewing, the 960 seriously questioned my need/desire to bare the extra expense for BD or HD DVD disks and players so remarkable is it's performance. I find myself pulling out old disks that I haven't viewed in years just to see what this beauty can do with it.


----------



## UWisconsin97




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *1000 Umbrellas* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 4ft.? Good Lord man that's close. As a kid, I was routinely scolded for sitting to close to the tv, "your going to ruin your eyes" as my Mother would say. I sit about 6-7 feet from my 960 which I find to be a comfortable viewing distance. Anything more than that, as much as I dearly love my 960, I would have to start looking at a plasma. LCD's are out of the question. I can't put my finger on it but there is something about them that "don't look right", like something is missing, there is "no there, there". As for as SD DVD viewing, the 960 seriously questioned my need/desire to bare the extra expense for BD or HD DVD disks and players so remarkable is it's performance. I find myself pulling out old disks that I haven't viewed in years just to see what this beauty can do with it.



I have no choice.. it's in my bedroom. I just turned 20, and I'm still at home. I would love to sit 5-6 feet away from the TV.


----------



## 1000 Umbrellas




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *UWisconsin97* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have no choice.. it's in my bedroom. I just turned 20, and I'm still at home. I would love to sit 5-6 feet away from the TV.



Good gravy, when I was 20 I thought I was high speed with a 25" Sanyo with dbx/stereo sound and a JVC s-vhs deck. Best times of my life.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *1000 Umbrellas* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> LCD's are out of the question. I can't put my finger on it but there is something about them that "don't look right", like something is missing, there is "no there, there". As for as SD DVD viewing, the 960 seriously questioned my need/desire to bare the extra expense for BD or HD DVD disks and players so remarkable is it's performance. I find myself pulling out old disks that I haven't viewed in years just to see what this beauty can do with it.



I agree with you about LCD - despite beautiful color and recent improvments in black levels, the picture gives an un-natural totally "flat" looking appearance with no depth perception (making objects appear top of each other, like when looking through binoculars).


And I don't think there is any need for a DVD player with upconversion since the 960's line doubler outputs 88% the resolution of these new players. It's so much better than using a player's progressive scan output because 480p sources cannot be upconverted. No need to rush out for a HD quality player, either. I'll get a high definition DVD after the format wars have ended and only when I need a new one and HD players become the norm.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *1000 Umbrellas* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Good gravy, when I was 20 I thought I was high speed with a 25" Sanyo with dbx/stereo sound and a JVC s-vhs deck. Best times of my life.










Hey, when I was 20 we were thrilled to have 8-track tapes!


----------



## UWisconsin97




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I agree with you about LCD - despite beautiful color and recent improvments in black levels, the picture gives an un-natural totally "flat" looking appearance with no depth perception (making objects appear top of each other, like when looking through binoculars).
> 
> 
> And I don't think there is any need for a DVD player with upconversion since the 960's line doubler outputs 88% the resolution of these new players. It's so much better than using a player's progressive scan output because 480p sources cannot be upconverted. No need to rush out for a HD quality player, either. I'll get a high definition DVD after the format wars have ended and only when I need a new one and HD players become the norm.



Does this apply to the 970 as well? I know I probably should post it here, but its worth a shot. I am not close to visually seeing "near" HD from regular DVD's on a Sony up-converter. I'll probably yield better results with the DVD player set in 480p, I suppose.


I'm going to try a few other settings as well, but just curious...


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *UWisconsin97* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does this apply to the 970 as well? I know I probably should post it here, but its worth a shot. I am not close to visually seeing "near" HD from regular DVD's on a Sony up-converter. I'll probably yield better results with the DVD player set in 480p, I suppose.
> 
> 
> I'm going to try a few other settings as well, but just curious...




Not sure - don't know if the 970 has the line-doubling upconversion like the 960. If an operating manual is available on-line, if included it will be mentioned.


----------



## +1chromosome

--- i've had this tv for quite some time and have loved it ----------- but i really need to adjust it since i have moved --------- circles are now horizontal ellipses, anyone have any input for the best adjustments in the service menue for this?


i was able to eleminate almost all of the overscan, but my geomatry is now off again.


----------



## ClayPigeon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GlenC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't recall ever having sharpness set to minimum on the Sony 910/960/970. Sony's sharpness control works both ways adds edge enhancement and overly reduces (softens). It is important to find the mid point where EE is zero.




I see what glen C is talking about. Just got a 970(not 960 i knowb) a few hours ago and after letting it warm up i wanted to throw avia in and see what was up. I got it on pro, color axis on monitor. At 50 the sharpness was too high and i noticed artificial lines in the sharpness pattern. lowering it to 0 tho the text became wayyyy too blurry and soft especially noticeable when having the xbox 360 dvd options on the bottom of the screen. I raised it to the point below of where the artificial lines started appearaing, thne lowered it to where there was no artificial lines and not overly soft, which was at a point of 15 for me.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ClayPigeon* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I see what glen C is talking about. Just got a 970(not 960 i knowb) a few hours ago and after letting it warm up i wanted to throw avia in and see what was up. I got it on pro, color axis on monitor. At 50 the sharpness was too high and i noticed artificial lines in the sharpness pattern. lowering it to 0 tho the text became wayyyy too blurry and soft especially noticeable when having the xbox 360 dvd options on the bottom of the screen. I raised it to the point below of where the artificial lines started appearaing, thne lowered it to where there was no artificial lines and not overly soft, which was at a point of 15 for me.



I don't think the point where EE is zero is necessarily when the picture no longer appears blurry or the presence of artificial lines is not overtly visible. I think the 970 likely needs more EE than the 960 due to its lower resolution. The "correct" setting according to "test patterns" isn't likely to be where EE is zero, especially the lower resolution the set.


There is also the issue of beam focus. If the set is brighter and thus less well focused, a higher sharpness setting may be needed compared to the same set with a dimmer, better focused picture.


The bottom line is any EE, regardless of resolution or focus, is artificial detail that adds unnatural noise to the picture that isn't part of the source material.


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I don't think the point where EE is zero is necessarily when the picture no longer appears blurry or the presence of artificial lines is not overtly visible. I think the 970 likely needs more EE than the 960 due to its lower resolution. The "correct" setting according to "test patterns" isn't likely to be where EE is zero, especially the lower resolution the set.
> 
> 
> There is also the issue of beam focus. If the set is brighter and thus less well focused, a higher sharpness setting may be needed compared to the same set with a dimmer, better focused picture.
> 
> 
> The bottom line is any EE, regardless of resolution or focus, is artificial detail that adds unnatural noise to the picture that isn't part of the source material.



Not necessarily. This is simple, you have/use a pattern with black vertical lines on a gray background. If you see *any*lightening of the gray, next to the black, you have too much EE. If you go below the point where the light edge disappears, you have gone to far. That is all there is to it, "ANY" EE adds artifacts to the picture that are not supposed to be there.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GlenC* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Not necessarily. This is simple, you have/use a pattern with black vertical lines on a gray background. If you see *any*lightening of the gray, next to the black, you have too much EE. If you go below the point where the light edge disappears, you have gone to far. That is all there is to it, "ANY" EE adds artifacts to the picture that are not supposed to be there.



Hi Glen,


I'm not a technician but am of the thought that proper EE is dependent upon correct settings for brightness and contrast as well as sharpness. More than just ensuring the picture isn't washed out, too dark or too vivid, with these settings off just a slight bit one would still encounter improper EE as well as too grainy or too soft a picture. So, am I right that these inbalances cannot be resolved by just re-adjusting the sharpness by itself? Is this also why the TV controls and available test patterns for sharpness appear after those for contrast, brightness, color and tint and, in the case of the 960, the DRC palette is the last setting to be made?


Thanks as always,

Joe


----------



## GlenC

In general, EE, edge "enhancement" is a stand alone function. The EE circuit looks at anything with a significant change in signal level, as it draws the line, and enhances that edge by increasing the contrast of that change. to do this with a black edge, they have to lighten the the area next to it, thus the white fringe next to vertical black lines. The higher the native contrast ratio of the display, the more you can see edge enhancement.


The EE is not in the film or source material, it doesn't belong in the display. This is similar to using the sharpen function on digital images on the computer.


----------



## Firstknight_sf

So I found an open box xbr960 but it is in pretty bad shape. Alot of cosmetic damage including the anti-glare coating but my main concern is that the top right corner has a purple image and the whole left side of the screen has a yellow image. Is this fixable???

The guy was gonna sell it for me for $500 but I think I can go as low as $400.


----------



## UWisconsin97




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Firstknight_sf* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So I found an open box xbr960 but it is in pretty bad shape. Alot of cosmetic damage including the anti-glare coating but my main concern is that the top right corner has a purple image and the whole left side of the screen has a yellow image. Is this fixable???
> 
> The guy was gonna sell it for me for $500 but I think I can go as low as $400.




If it has full warranty, I would buy it, and call Sony, and have them send someone over to fix it. Although it may not be fixable, I will let others chime in with a more definite answer.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Firstknight_sf* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So I found an open box xbr960 but it is in pretty bad shape. Alot of cosmetic damage including the anti-glare coating but my main concern is that the top right corner has a purple image and the whole left side of the screen has a yellow image. Is this fixable???
> 
> The guy was gonna sell it for me for $500 but I think I can go as low as $400.



That discoloration could be due to magnetism. Unplug the set and wait a few minutes before turning it on again. If it is magnetism, it willl disappear. If it doesn't, check the brightness, picture and color settings - these adjustments set too high and constantly on could also cause discoloration. If this still exists, there's either a problem with the degausser or the tube itself.


Even if the discoloration disappears and anti-glare coating properly removed, one still does not know of other problems that could exist. The cosmetic damage indicates it wasn't handled well. If it was me, I would skip it - $400 is still a lot of money.


----------



## Firstknight_sf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That discoloration could be due to magnetism. Unplug the set and wait a few minutes before turning it on again. If it is magnetism, it willl disappear. If it doesn't, check the brightness, picture and color settings - these adjustments set too high and constantly on could also cause discoloration. If this still exists, there's either a problem with the degausser or the tube itself.
> 
> 
> Even if the discoloration disappears and anti-glare coating properly removed, one still does not know of other problems that could exist. The cosmetic damage indicates it wasn't handled well. If it was me, I would skip it - $400 is still a lot of money.



Yeah I just didn't want to take the chance. But I could buy the extended warranty and get it fixed like that but it just sounds like to much trouble. I think the 970 would be a perfect fit for me since the majority of my viewing would be standard dvds and a viewing distance of 10 feet.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Firstknight_sf* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yeah I just didn't want to take the chance. But I could buy the extended warranty and get it fixed like that but it just sounds like to much trouble. I think the 970 would be a perfect fit for me since the majority of my viewing would be standard dvds and a viewing distance of 10 feet.



As great as the 960 and 970 CRTs are, please know the viewing distance of ten feet would be way past the recommended distance for a 34 inch screen (which is between 5 and 8 feet).


----------



## UWisconsin97




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As great as the 960 and 970 CRTs are, please know the viewing distance of ten feet would be way past the recommended distance for a 34 inch screen (which is between 5 and 8 feet).



I agree. ^ I'm about 3-4 feet away. I have no choice, because it's in my bedroom...


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *UWisconsin97* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I agree. ^ I'm about 3-4 feet away. I have no choice, because it's in my bedroom...



Except for eye strain, don't see any problem being so close.


----------



## ClayPigeon

I'm at about 5 1/2 feet from my 970. I always read different charts tho about where the optimal viewing distances are!


----------



## rmd68

In your honest opinion how does the 960 really stand up against LCD/Plasma/DLP? Is it just a cheaper alternative or is it a true rival? Also, where the heck can I find one of the 960's.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rmd68* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In your honest opinion how does the 960 really stand up against LCD/Plasma/DLP? Is it just a cheaper alternative or is it a true rival?



They are very different. Most significantly, the 960 is a flat-screen rectangular shaped CRT and the others are fixed-pixel devices. So the 960 is inherently subject to analog electron-beam convergence irregularities (horizontal and vertical curvature, focus, convergence, etc.) stemming largely from the flat screen rectangular picture tube shape sprayed by an electron gun in the center-rear. The other technologies are not subject to these problems. They are "pixel perfect", by definition, and perfectly linear.


Also, it is significantly smaller than most LCD/Plasma/DLP sets. This is probably the biggest factor in determining whether or not the 960 is for you. Where will you be sitting when watching?


Also, the 960 being a CRT, it of course [properly adjusted] has better blacks, whites, contrast, brightness, colors, purity, 3D-appearance, no scan lines or dots, etc., with no motion artifacts (e.g. "trails" from motion or pixel response time artifacts, as LCD sets typically do).


In fact, it is not a "cheaper alternative". Quite the opposite. In my opinion it is actually the holy grail to which the other displays try to match but so far cannot, the absolute epitome reference source to which performance of all other sets is compared against.


I hate to gush, but in my opinion it (i.e. my own XBR960) provides the best picture I have ever seen on a TV. Bar none. It looks absolutely real and lifelike. Given proper HD content (e.g. some fabulous stuff on DiscHD) it's like looking through an OPEN window at the outside world, be it a film or a live show (e.g. SNL or Leno).




> Quote:
> Also, where the heck can I find one of the 960's.



Good luck.


But if you don't plan to sit 4'-7' from this set, but further back, forget it. Go with a much larger Sony SXRD or XBR2 and get wow'ed that way.


However for 4'-7' viewing, there is simply and absolutely nothing better than the 960 (in my opinion). It is worth the search for one.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rmd68* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In your honest opinion how does the 960 really stand up against LCD/Plasma/DLP? Is it just a cheaper alternative or is it a true rival? Also, where the heck can I find one of the 960's.



This is based on my own opinion, having seen all three. I find the drawbacks to the 960 have nothing to do with picture quality. Some find a problem with it not being thin and lightweight, while others want a bigger screen. There could be geometric problems with curved edges (fortunately on mine all test patterns in HD or amaphoric 16x9 are straight both vertical and horizontal, yet I can understand this upsetting others). CRTs are also prone to magnetic distoration but this eliminated on the 960 b unplugging it and allowing the automatic degausser to kick in once it's turned back on.


None of this, however, bothers me at all because it still comes down to picture quality and the 960 is still regarded as the reference set to judge others by. Plasma and LCD are flat screens and this is the also the type of picture one gets - flat with no depth perception and the un-natural look of everything on top of one other (similar to a computer monitor). While the colors and clarity are impressive they are even moreso on the 960 because, as others have mentioned, plasma and LCD lack the rich blacks and deep contrast which is found on CRT. Also, when a respected website like Crutchfeld says plasma offers the closest picture quality to a CRT, that still means that CRT is the best.


I'm a little cautious about DLP because of those thousands of tiny mirrors that constantly move. I'm not a technician, of course, but a friend owned a standard rear projection set and told me the mirrors gather dust and it was recommended they be cleaned by a professional once a year (he knew someone who removed the mirrors himself and dropped one of them!). I cannot say if cleaning also applies to DLP technology, however, any device with so many moving parts would worry me.


We're all fortunate to have purchased the 960 when it was still available and factory fresh. Had we been in the market for a HD set today, I'm sure we would be happy with the flat screen but this would partly be because we would not have known what we were missing not having the 960.


----------



## rmd68

Is the any rumors about Sony making a newer model than the 970 (which is not an improvement over the 960 I know) that would rival or beat the 960. It would make finding one much easier.


----------



## S. Hiller

_I'm a little cautious about DLP because of those thousands of tiny mirrors that constantly move. I'm not a technician, of course, but a friend owned a standard rear projection set and told me the mirrors gather dust and it was recommended they be cleaned by a professional once a year (he knew someone who removed the mirrors himself and dropped one of them!). I cannot say if cleaning also applies to DLP technology, however, any device with so many moving parts would worry me._


DLP element is like a computer chip. You'd never touch it.


Color wheel spins mechanically and can fail. Also, as with most projectors, the lamp will burn out eventually as well. However, LED driven DLP units now available or becoming available should ameliorate the above two failure points...


----------



## S. Hiller




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rmd68* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is the any rumors about Sony making a newer model than the 970 (which is not an improvement over the 960 I know) that would rival or beat the 960. It would make finding one much easier.



Last I heard, Sony has discontinued CRT TV sales in North America.


Their excellent line of CRT computer monitors was discontinued in 2004.


For enthusiasts, it's been a terrible shame...


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *S. Hiller* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Last I heard, Sony has discontinued CRT TV sales in North America.... For enthusiasts, it's been a terrible shame...



Yes, but that also makes us elite (and for me, the one and only time LOL)


----------



## rmd68

I guess that re-directs me to flat panels once again. Too bad I really wanted to test on of these out.


----------



## S. Hiller




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rmd68* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I guess that re-directs me to flat panels once again. Too bad I really wanted to test on of these out.



You should check out LCOS (e.g, SXRD) and DLP LED rear projection as well...


----------



## UWisconsin97




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rmd68* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I guess that re-directs me to flat panels once again. Too bad I really wanted to test on of these out.



The 970's are on sale now at CC. Not quite the same, but the best CRT available for purchase now.


----------



## rmd68




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *S. Hiller* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You should check out LCOS (e.g, SXRD) and DLP LED rear projection as well...



How is the PQ with those compared top plasma and LCD. I know they get better bang for the buck but I don't think the picture is as good. Is this true? Also as to the 970 I don't think its good enough to justify buying it over a flat panel. The price is good but it's not what I'm looking for. One more think how do you multi-qoute on these boards.


----------



## UWisconsin97




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rmd68* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How is the PQ with those compared top plasma and LCD. I know they get better bang for the buck but I don't think the picture is as good. Is this true? Also as to the 970 I don't think its good enough to justify buying it over a flat panel. The price is good but it's not what I'm looking for. One more think how do you multi-qoute on these boards.



Plasmas are the only thing that comes close to PQ on a CRT. Aside from being large and bulky, there's very few that can compete with the PQ.


----------



## ClayPigeon

Advantages of LCOS


* Smoother image. The LCOS pixel edges are not as sharp as DLP pixel edges.

* Little "screen door" effect. Mostly due to the higher resolutions and smaller dot pitch.

* No rainbow effect because there is no colour wheel.


Disadvantages of LCOS


* Limited lamp life

* Not so good contrast ratios.

* Expensive


----------



## DJF(NJ)




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *S. Hiller* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Last I heard, Sony has discontinued CRT TV sales in North America.
> 
> 
> Their excellent line of CRT computer monitors was discontinued in 2004.
> 
> 
> For enthusiasts, it's been a terrible shame...



Yeah, the tubes are completely off the Sonystyle.com website now. Only the professional grade broadcast CRT monitors are being made. I think the 32" model costs around 30-40 thousand dollars.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *UWisconsin97* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Plasmas are the only thing that comes close to PQ on a CRT. Aside from being large and bulky, there's very few that can compete with the PQ.



I think the Sony SXRD family (LCD-based) is superb.


Viewed from the proper distance it does not look like an LCD to me. It looks like a CRT. I'm talking the A2000/A2020 family and the XBR2 family. Even the first-generation XBR1 was stunning (XBR2 accepts 1080p input via HDMI).


Don't stand 5 feet from in it a store when you evaluate, under fluorescent lighting or broad daylight, and expect that this is what it will look like in your darkened home viewing environment. Viewed in the dark and back far enough that is appropriate for its larger screen sizes (50-70"), and tweaked in the user menu to turn off VIVID, etc., the picture will astound you.


If I ever look for something larger to replace or supplement my XBR960, I suspect it will be one of these SXRD devices (at least that's how it seems today). Closest thing to a CRT I've seen in a non-CRT.



EDIT: upper limit on XBR2 size is 70", not 65" as originally posted.


----------



## theroys88

Wait till this summer when the new Pioneer Plasmas are released. I have heard that they will finally give us CRT guys what we are wanting in a bigger set.


----------



## UWisconsin97




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *theroys88* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wait till this summer when the new Pioneer Plasmas are released. I have heard that they will finally give us CRT guys what we are wanting in a bigger set.



And an even bigger price!!


----------



## rmd68

The Pioneers have a superb picture but you have to take out a mortgage just to own one. /Sigh I'm waiting to get a glimpse of one of the new Panasonics they are supposed to have a "CRT-like" PQ. I'm still saddened that they are discontinuing the Sony CRT lineup. I was looking forward to an "new 960" to address what was lacking in the 970.


----------



## tvh3ad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rmd68* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Pioneers have a superb picture but you have to take out a mortgage just to own one.



They're coming down fast. The current Elite 42" plasma can now be had for less than I paid for my XBR960 in '04.


I'm keeping the Sony until its extended warranty expires in '09...after two more generations of LCOS/plasma/LCD development, something out there might get reasonably close.


----------



## tvh3ad

There is a new XBR960 sitting on the sales floor at a Sears near me in Massachusetts, selling price $499.


The set appears to be in good shape: there's no visible scratching or any other cosmetic damage to the screen or case. It was not turned on and looks to be new, not a floor model.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think the Sony SXRD family (LCD-based) is superb.
> 
> 
> Viewed from the proper distance it does not look like an LCD to me. It looks like a CRT. I'm talking the A2000/A2020 family and the XBR2 family. Even the first-generation XBR1 was stunning (XBR2 accepts 1080p input via HDMI).
> 
> 
> Don't stand 5 feet from in it a store when you evaluate, under fluorescent lighting or broad daylight, and expect that this is what it will look like in your darkened home viewing environment. Viewed in the dark and back far enough that is appropriate for its larger screen sizes (50-70"), and tweaked in the user menu to turn off VIVID, etc., the picture will astound you.
> 
> 
> If I ever look for something larger to replace or supplement my XBR960, I suspect it will be one of these SXRD devices (at least that's how it seems today). Closest thing to a CRT I've seen in a non-CRT.
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: upper limit on XBR2 size is 70", not 65" as originally posted.



Agreed, I saw the 42 inch model and was very impressed with PQ and it's high price tag.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tvh3ad* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> There is a new XBR960 sitting on the sales floor at a Sears near me in Massachusetts, selling price $499.
> 
> 
> The set appears to be in good shape: there's no visible scratching or any other cosmetic damage to the screen or case. It was not turned on and looks to be new, not a floor model.



WOW!


----------



## S. Hiller

If it's not in its box, wouldn't it be a floor model?


----------



## tvh3ad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *S. Hiller* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If it's not in its box, wouldn't it be a floor model?



I guess technically that's true, but it's in awfully nice shape. I think it's more likely that it was taken out of the box to try to get it sold.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tvh3ad* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm keeping the Sony until its extended warranty expires in '09...



My two-year warranty expires on August 3rd and I just received an offer from Sony for an additional three years for about $360+.


I know companies make lots of money off the sale of extended warranties since most of the time when something goes wrong it occurs during the initial warranty period. My 960 has been fine up to now and if something goes, I figure the cost for repair would be in the neighborhood of the cost of the warranty anyway.


Has anybody not taken out the extended warranty and regreted it?


----------



## RWetmore

$360 seems a little steep to me.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> $360 seems a little steep to me.



That was my thought as well.


----------



## tvh3ad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> $360 seems a little steep to me.



Agreed, and in the past I've never bought into these protection rackets. But, if the tube goes bad and there are none left with which to replace it, Sony will pony up your original purchase price towards a new (Sony) TV. Given this thread, I thought that was a gamble worth taking.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tvh3ad* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Agreed, and in the past I've never bought into these protection rackets. But, if the tube goes bad and there are none left with which to replace it, Sony will pony up your original purchase price towards a new (Sony) TV. Given this thread, I thought that was a gamble worth taking.



At this point, I'm thinking of not going for it. Hopefully, the tube will have a long life and when it does begin to deteriate, the cost of a new LCD or Plasma should be less than the premiums paid for the service extensions.


----------



## BlueIce2k3

I have had my kd 34xbr960 for over 2 years now and it has been wonderful. However, recently i have ran into a few small problems. My HDMI port has stopped working. I think I may have bumped the HDMI cable too hard when i was plugging some other cables in and messed up the connector in the tv. Is there any solution to this? Is it possible to replace the input board in the tv? The other problem i have noticed is that ghosting has gotten worse on dark scenes. If its a night scene with some lights and they move the camera the lights create streaks all over the screen and i dont believe it used to do that however it may be degradation of the tv over time. I have heard this can happen with CRT's.


Thanks,

Kody


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BlueIce2k3* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have had my kd 34xbr960 for over 2 years now and it has been wonderful. However, recently i have ran into a few small problems. My HDMI port has stopped working. I think I may have bumped the HDMI cable too hard when i was plugging some other cables in and messed up the connector in the tv. Is there any solution to this? Is it possible to replace the input board in the tv? The other problem i have noticed is that ghosting has gotten worse on dark scenes. If its a night scene with some lights and they move the camera the lights create streaks all over the screen and i dont believe it used to do that however it may be degradation of the tv over time. I have heard this can happen with CRT's.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Kody



Kody, it's impossible to diagnose this problem without seeing the TV itself. And I'm sure you could get a new input board if that turns out to be necessary.


However, you should try other troubleshooting techniques first. For example, can you see any physical damage to the cable or the socket? Try disconnecting the cable inspect it. Then connect it again, being sure eveything's tight. If you can, try substituting a "known good" HDMI cable.


And consider, do you really need the HDMI port? (Could you substitute with a component input?)


As a last resort you could call for service.



Mark


----------



## narcispy

Lately I've been kind of hating my xbr960 purchase, yes the screen is huge, it's crt but here's whats wrong. It crops every single input which makes it hard to play games because you can't see any information on the far right or left corners of the screen. my HDMI port looks the exact same as the component, offers little to no image quality improvement, which I heard is correct but I also have a lcd pc monitor and it does infact have an improvement which makes me upset at my purchase. Also it's very blurry in every input component mostly, I can't get it looking right at all. Lets just say in the past 6 months my tv has been turned on 3 times but I am constantly using my lcd monitor, which is smaller, to play my games or watch hd movies.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *narcispy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Lately I've been kind of hating my xbr960 purchase, yes the screen is huge, it's crt but here's whats wrong. It crops every single input which makes it hard to play games because you can't see any information on the far right or left corners of the screen. my HDMI port looks the exact same as the component, offers little to no image quality improvement, which I heard is correct but I also have a lcd pc monitor and it does infact have an improvement which makes me upset at my purchase. Also it's very blurry in every input component mostly, I can't get it looking right at all. Lets just say in the past 6 months my tv has been turned on 3 times but I am constantly using my lcd monitor, which is smaller, to play my games or watch hd movies.



You may want to consider having it professionally calibrated. No point in letting it sit around collecting dust.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *narcispy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Lately I've been kind of hating my xbr960 purchase, yes the screen is huge, it's crt but here's whats wrong. It crops every single input which makes it hard to play games because you can't see any information on the far right or left corners of the screen. my HDMI port looks the exact same as the component, offers little to no image quality improvement, which I heard is correct but I also have a lcd pc monitor and it does infact have an improvement which makes me upset at my purchase. Also it's very blurry in every input component mostly, I can't get it looking right at all. Lets just say in the past 6 months my tv has been turned on 3 times but I am constantly using my lcd monitor, which is smaller, to play my games or watch hd movies.



I'm sure someone would be happy to take it off your hands, and relieve you of your suffering







.


----------



## narcispy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You may want to consider having it professionally calibrated. No point in letting it sit around collecting dust.




I really don't think I want it anymore, I'm going to have to move soon and don't wanna lug the beast with me. Would rather grab myself a little larger LCD to replace it with.


----------



## narcispy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm sure someone would be happy to take it off your hands, and relieve you of your suffering
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



Yea quite possibly but not locally I really doubt I will find anyone.


----------



## ckhirnigs113

I have an unusual issue with my XBR960. When I received the set refurbished from Sony, the casing was pretty badly beat up. I have since had the whole tube replaced under warranty due to some discoloration/purity problems. I know this is a long shot, but I was wondering if there is any way to replace the plastic casing that frames the tube.


If it's possible to replace, I would be looking for someone with a broken set that might be willing to part with the front casing. Or is there anywhere else that one can get a part like this? Can Sony be contacted directly? I will probably just put up with it since the picture is still good. I'd appreciate any help though. Thanks, CK


----------



## narcispy

I was fooling around with the settings on my screen today, looks a lot better. Only problem is the amount of over scan on these things is ridiculous, my other sony crts were never this off. Is it worth adjusting them in the service menu, I have the avia disc so I should be able to line it up correctly.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *narcispy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was fooling around with the settings on my screen today, looks a lot better. Only problem is the amount of over scan on these things is ridiculous, my other sony crts were never this off. Is it worth adjusting them in the service menu, I have the avia disc so I should be able to line it up correctly.



Yes, it is worth adjusting. Look for Ken's tech thread for plenty of guidance.


----------



## SwiftSweeper

Hi guys, I am finally done with my university/college exams.







GMAT exam was intense lol.


Anyway, back on topic.


I finally got proper remote from Sony, so I had opportunity to mess around with dual picture modes (scrolling index, favorite channels, twin view, freeze) on my xbr 960.


Twin view mode is particularly impressive, I love the ability to adjust pictures' sizes and to switch the sound from one picture to another in this mode. Scrolling index, favorite channels, and freeze are also quite nice. I also love that the TV displays two pictures side by side instead of laying the pictures on top of each other. Overall, dual picture modes are much more advanced and user friendly than PIP mode on my Scientific Atlanta cable box. Good job Sony!


However, I am having trouble utilizing dual picture modes to their fullest because unlike the left window, which can display HD, digital SD, and analog SD in addition to composite, s-video, component, and HDMI inputs, the right window only displays analog SD and composite/s-video inputs, which essentially limits all these nice Dual picture features that Sony has packed into the TV.


I am looking for some suggestions on how to get around this right window limitation.


Currently, I have following hook up configuration. The coax cable from Time Warner goes into a two way splitter. From the splitter, one coax cable goes into the HDTV cable jack. Another coax goes into cable box. The cable box hooked up to the HDTV thorough component. In addition to component, I also have the same cable box hooked up to the HDTV through composite. I have Xbox 360 hooked up through the other component.


With this set up I can use twin view features in the following ways.


I can have Xbox 360 in the left window and have cable box displaying in the right window though composite, which is nice because I have access to all cable channels in the right window regardless of them being digital/HD/analog/scrambled. Granted they all display in SD analog, but it is still works for preview.


I can also bypass the cable box and use twin view with unscrambled channels coming directly into the HDTV cable jack. In this mode, the left window displays analog SD and unscrambled digital channels both SD and HD. The right window unfortunately only displays SD analog channels. In this mode, I am missing a lot of channels in both windows since most digital SD channels and some HD channels (Discovery HD, TNT HD, INHD) are scrambled and therefore, they are unavailable even in the left window.


I can also have cable box outputting through component in the left window, which will give me proper access to all cable channels, and have the right window output analog SD channels from coax cable that hooked up into the HDTV directly. The problem, I am still missing all digital SD and HD channels from warner cable in the right window. Plus, I have to switch my remote between cable box and TV modes every time I flip channels in the different window, which is inconvenient.


I can also do the reverse of the above. I can have in the left window, all analog SD channels and unscrambled digital SD/ HD channels directly from the coax cable plugged into the HDTV . In the right window, I can have cable box through composite outputting all its channels. I will have all cable box channels in the right window in SD analog form regardless if they originally were digital, scrambled, or HD. Still, I will miss a lot of scrambled channels in the left window, and this set up is not user friendly also because I will still have to switch the remote to either cable or TV mode to flip channels in the different window.


In the nutshell, I am trying to find the best way to get all my cable channels (scrambled and unscrambled) working in both Twin View windows. I am hoping that someone can suggest better solution than the ones that I have mentioned above. To be honest, it seems to me that there is no way to get around the problem except, may be, buying some expensive equipment. Any suggestions will be helpful.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SwiftSweeper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ...... I am having trouble utilizing dual picture modes to their fullest because unlike the left window, which can display HD, digital SD, and analog SD in addition to composite, s-video, component, and HDMI inputs, the right window only displays analog SD and composite/s-video inputs, which essentially limits all these nice Dual picture features that Sony has packed into the TV.
> 
> 
> I am looking for some suggestions on how to get around this right window limitation..........
> 
> ........In the nutshell, I am trying to find the best way to get all my cable channels (scrambled and unscrambled) working in both Twin View windows. I am hoping that someone can suggest better solution than the ones that I have mentioned above. To be honest, it seems to me that there is no way to get around the problem except, may be, buying some expensive equipment. Any suggestions will be helpful.



The no-HD limitation on the right window cannot be gotten around, if that's what your asking.


The right window video is created with the CXA2103AQ Sub color decoder chip. The service manual block diagram indicates that none of the component inputs on the chip are wired for use, therefore it cannot support inputs from the component or HDMI inputs, which are the only HD capable inputs. I believe the only inputs that are selectable for the sub decoder chip are the ntsc tuner and SD video inputs, 1, 2, 3 and 4.


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The no-HD limitation on the right window cannot be gotten around, if that's what your asking.
> 
> 
> The right window video is created with the CXA2103AQ Sub color decoder chip. The service manual block diagram indicates that none of the component inputs on the chip are wired for use, therefore it cannot support inputs from the component or HDMI inputs, which are the only HD capable inputs. I believe the only inputs that are selectable for the sub decoder chip are the ntsc tuner and SD video inputs, 1, 2, 3 and 4.



Thank you for response. I understand that right window can only display SD analog signal.


I am trying to find the best way to use the cable box with twin view.


These are three ways that I come up with



> Quote:
> I can also bypass the cable box and use twin view with unscrambled channels coming directly into the HDTV cable jack. In this mode, the left window displays analog SD and unscrambled digital channels both SD and HD. The right window unfortunately only displays SD analog channels. In this mode, I am missing a lot of channels in both windows since most digital SD channels and some HD channels (Discovery HD, TNT HD, INHD) are scrambled and therefore, they are unavailable even in the left window.
> 
> 
> I can also have cable box outputting through component in the left window, which will give me proper access to all cable channels, and have the right window output analog SD channels from coax cable that hooked up into the HDTV directly. The problem, I am still missing all digital SD and HD channels from warner cable in the right window. Plus, I have to switch my remote between cable box and TV modes every time I flip channels in the different window, which is inconvenient.
> 
> 
> I can also do the reverse of the above. I can have in the left window, all analog SD channels and unscrambled digital SD/ HD channels directly from the coax cable plugged into the HDTV . In the right window, I can have cable box through composite outputting all its channels. I will have all cable box channels in the right window in SD analog form regardless if they originally were digital, scrambled, or HD. Still, I will miss a lot of scrambled channels in the left window, and this set up is not user friendly also because I will still have to switch the remote to either cable or TV mode to flip channels in the different window.



I am hoping that someone has better idea about using twin view feature of xbr 960 for cable viewing than the ones that I posted above.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SwiftSweeper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I am hoping that someone has better idea about using twin view feature of xbr 960 for cable viewing than the ones that I posted above.



Hi Swift,


If you really want the ability to watch all stations in both twin views this is an ackward way to do it, however, you will need a DVR.


My HD DVR has a separate function for recording to a VCR/DVD recorder via the "out to VCR" function. The "out to VCR" can be used either with RF, composite and S-Video cable. Have the cable go from one of these jacks on the box into video 1 or 2 on the 960. When you want to watch a second digital or HD channel have it recorded and upon completion play it back through the second screen (as if it was being dubbed onto a VCR). You won't be able to watch it live but you can watch it while viewing any other channel in the left screen. Also, the HD picture will be "window boxed" because it's being played back through standard definitition.


As I said, it's ackward but possible if you're willing to pay an extra $10 or so a month for the DVR system.


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Swift,
> 
> 
> If you really want the ability to watch all stations in both twin views this is an ackward way to do it, however, you will need a DVR.
> 
> 
> My HD DVR has a separate function for recording to a VCR/DVD recorder via the "out to VCR" function. The "out to VCR" can be used either with RF, composite and S-Video cable. Have the cable go from one of these jacks on the box into video 1 or 2 on the 960. When you want to watch a second digital or HD channel have it recorded and upon completion play it back through the second screen (as if it was being dubbed onto a VCR). You won't be able to watch it live but you can watch it while viewing any other channel in the left screen. Also, the HD picture will be "window boxed" because it's being played back through standard definitition.
> 
> 
> As I said, it's ackward but possible if you're willing to pay an extra $10 or so a month for the DVR system.



Hi Joe










Thanks for a tip.


I actually have DVR, and I have INHD test patterns saved on it for tune up. I tested your suggestion, and it does work exactly as you described. It is a great way to watch some recorded SD channels in right window and still have ability to surf all cable channels in the left window. It works somewhat similar to my Xbox360/cable box set up.


I gave this Twin View issue more thought, and it seems to me that there is no way to make Twin View to properly work for all cable channels.


I have another question for you guys.


The Favorites channels option does not work for video 1-7 inputs on my xbr960. It only works for coax antenna/cable inputs. This seems strange to me because Scrolling Index function works fine for all video 1-7 inputs in addition to coax antenna/cable inputs. Additionally, I have no problem accessing Favorite channels option on my xbr 970 even if the xbr 970 set to video 1-7.


Can someone verify that Favorite channels feature is only available for coax inputs on xbr960?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SwiftSweeper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi Joe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for a tip.
> 
> 
> I actually have DVR, and I have INHD test patterns saved on it for tune up. I tested your suggestion, and it does work exactly as you described. It is a great way to watch some recorded SD channels in right window and still have ability to surf all cable channels in the left window. It works somewhat similar to my Xbox360/cable box set up.
> 
> 
> I gave this Twin View issue more thought, and it seems to me that there is no way to make Twin View to properly work for all cable channels.
> 
> 
> I have another question for you guys.
> 
> 
> The Favorites channels option does not work for video 1-7 inputs on my xbr960. It only works for coax antenna/cable inputs. This seems strange to me because Scrolling Index function works fine for all video 1-7 inputs in addition to coax antenna/cable inputs. Additionally, I have no problem accessing Favorite channels option on my xbr 970 even if the xbr 970 set to video 1-7.
> 
> 
> Can someone verify that Favorite channels feature is only available for coax inputs on xbr960?












Hi Swift,


Glad I was able to help..., sometimes I come up with a good idea once in a while, right? LOL.


I've also saved the INHD test patterns and always advise people to use them because one can be easily fooled by a picture that appears vivid but in actuality is not properly adjusted.


Even though my DVR's "out to vcr" jack is composite, I found that anything other than the HDMI/Component output could be used. So I have the S-Video hooked into my DVD recorder so if you wish, you can still use one of the non-HD outputs into your recorder and the other for twin view. I also have an RF cable hooked into an old "VCR rabbit" to watch cable on my other sets (however, when dubbing from the hard drive, I can only see the program being recorded).


I believe the index is showing those stations going directly into your 970/960 independent of the input you are watching at the time.


Ciao,

Joe


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Swift,
> 
> 
> Glad I was able to help..., sometimes I come up with a good idea once in a while, right? LOL.



heh indeed, I felt similar way when I figured out that I can have Xbox360 running in HD in one window, and still have my cable box running in the other window.



> Quote:
> I believe the index is showing those stations going directly into your 970/960 independent of the input you are watching at the time.



Yep, index feature seems to be input independent on xbr960. xbr970 does not have index feature though.


However, both sets seem to handle Favorite channels feature differently. On my xbr970, I can access this feature when the xbr970 is set to video1-6 in addition to cable/antenna modes. On the other hand, my xbr 960 Favorite channels function is unavailable when the xbr960 is set into video1-7. I am not quite sure if this is behavior normal for xbr960.


Can someone verify if Favorite channels feature is available on xbr960 when the TV is set into video1-7 modes?


----------



## paulr1234

Can anyone suggest a good firm to do this? I live in Palo Alto


I've been been very happy with my set but it needs a couple of small alignment tweaks.


I also plan to use this set as an inexpensive broadcast monitor for my independent HDV 1080/60i film projects, so I'd like to find someone who is very knowledgeable about these large CRT sets.


I'm not planning on doing 'big-league' color critical work with this, but I'd like to get it 'tuned' as much as possible, preferably by a technician who knows color well, not just someone who understands the services codes and knows how to adjust the yoke.


Thanks,


Paul.


----------



## jamesflames

My calibrator says that grayscale is universal on these tvs so once it's set it's set for all inputs. Curious if that's true or not as I see differences with the same source with different connections (component vs hdmi). He did do geometry and convergence adjustments on all inputs though.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jamesflames* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My calibrator says that grayscale is universal on these tvs so once it's set it's set for all inputs. Curious if that's true or not as I see differences with the same source with different connections (component vs hdmi). He did do geometry and convergence adjustments on all inputs though.



Yes, the grayscale adjustments are global on the Sony crt sets. The differences you see are likely the input dependent parameters that are either not set to equivalent values or are not implemented consistently. BTW, the color temperature selections of cool and warm are offsets applied to the grayscale parameters, therefore grayscale should have been calibrated in neutral.


----------



## Sandman9R

I was an early adopter of this set and purchased one in August 2004. I've posted several impressions somewhere in this extremely long thread.


With all of the hype concerning CableCARDs and how they'll be implemented much more heavily in the next few years, I decided to try it out.


Unfortunately, it doesn't work on this set. I've had Cablevision come by and swap the card on three separate occasions. None can escape the dreaded 161-6 error message. And when the card is working, it's only for about 5 minutes before the picture freezes up and all channels are lost.


I call up Sony and much to my chagrin, it's going to cost $500 to replace my Q-box and a bloody $250 an hour for labor. Had I tried to experiment with the CableCARD when it was still under warranty, I wouldn't have the need to shell out this money on a set that was already defective from the factory.


Has anyone else had the QAM tuner box replaced?


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SwiftSweeper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can someone verify if Favorite channels feature is available on xbr960 when the TV is set into video1-7 modes?



Anyone?










I would greatly appreciate it.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SwiftSweeper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ......However, both sets seem to handle Favorite channels feature differently. On my xbr970, I can access this feature when the xbr970 is set to video1-6 in addition to cable/antenna modes. On the other hand, my xbr 960 Favorite channels function is unavailable when the xbr960 is set into video1-7. I am not quite sure if this is behavior normal for xbr960.
> 
> 
> Can someone verify if Favorite channels feature is available on xbr960 when the TV is set into video1-7 modes?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SwiftSweeper* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anyone?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would greatly appreciate it.



I would assume that the favorite "channel" feature would only be tied to channels associated with the integrated tuners.


How does it function on the 970? A favorite channel can be established associated with a specific channel on a stb attached to a video input?


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I would assume that the favorite "channel" feature would only be tied to channels associated with the integrated tuners.
> 
> 
> How does it function on the 970? A favorite channel can be established associated with a specific channel on a stb attached to a video input?



On my xbr 970, favorite channels feature is available only for channels that the TV receives directly through either of the two TV tuners(unscrambled cable or over the air channels only). It is available when the TV is set to antenna or cable mode. However, it is also accessible when xbr970 is set into any of video1-6 inputs. There is no dual picture view on xbr970 though.


My xbr960 behaves differently from xbr970. Favorite channel feature is available with dual picture when xbr960 is set into either antenna or cable mode. When the xbr960 is in video1-7 modes, the feature is not accessible at all.


I am wondering whether it is normal behavior for xbr960. It would be neat if favorite channel function on xbr960 worked (with dual view) when the xbr960 is set into video1-7 inputs also.


In the nutshell, I am asking for someone to test his xbr960 and verify whether favorite channel feature is available when xbr960 is set into one of its video inputs.


----------



## shooks20

Is anyone using a PS3 through the HDMI port on this television? I can't seem to get it working. When the PS3 starts up the screen blinks a couple times, and when I hit display the resolution is at 480p, but no sound or picture. I have tried the reset method by holding down the power button but again, it just blinks twice and sits there. Anyone have any ideas?


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shooks20* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is anyone using a PS3 through the HDMI port on this television? I can't seem to get it working. When the PS3 starts up the screen blinks a couple times, and when I hit display the resolution is at 480p, but no sound or picture. I have tried the reset method by holding down the power button but again, it just blinks twice and sits there. Anyone have any ideas?



I have my PS3 hooked up via HDMI (XBR960) , Works great except the first cable I tried had random problems (screen would randomly black out), I bought a better cable off monoprice.com and havent had any problems since then.


----------



## 1000 Umbrellas

With all the discussion going on over at the plasma forum about the 8g Pioneers and their supposed crt like black levels, I thought it might me good idea to remind ourselves why they aspire to reach that which has been the provenance held by our antiquated but beloved vacuum tube picture boxes with some caps from Serenity and Van Helsing HD DVDs. Of course, picture taking skills have to be taken into account and I profess that I'm really just a hack when it comes to photography but it does give an "impression" of what I see.


----------



## jamesflames




> Quote:
> My calibrator says that grayscale is universal on these tvs so once it's set it's set for all inputs. Curious if that's true or not as I see differences with the same source with different connections (component vs hdmi). He did do geometry and convergence adjustments on all inputs though.





> Quote:
> Yes, the grayscale adjustments are global on the Sony crt sets. The differences you see are likely the input dependent parameters that are either not set to equivalent values or are not implemented consistently. BTW, the color temperature selections of cool and warm are offsets applied to the grayscale parameters, therefore grayscale should have been calibrated in neutral.



Thanks for the reply. The individual input settings are the same so it must be the device that is outputting the signal. I'm not sure which color temp was used during calibration.


----------



## shooks20




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have my PS3 hooked up via HDMI (XBR960) , Works great except the first cable I tried had random problems (screen would randomly black out), I bought a better cable off monoprice and havent had any problems since then.



Thanks for the reply man, I will give it a try.


----------



## Delhux

I've had this set for a little more than 6-months now. I'm very happy with it. I did have to have a service technician come out to adjust some odd red lines that were appearing on the screen, but aside from that it has been pretty good. I picked it up as a Sony refurb, so I expected to have some "issues" with it.


There are two things that do bother me, though.


1) The tube seems unusually sensitive to the magnetic fields from my home theater speakers. I used to have the center speaker mounted on top of my old Sony SD set, and probably 8-10 inches to the side for the left and right channels. If I attempt that with the XBR960, I get horrible magnetic distortion. I've had to move the center speaker to the far rear of the top of the set, and the left and right channel speakers are 2-feet on either side of the set--and there is still some minor distortion from them. As I said, these speakers produced ZERO distortion on my old Sony SD set--even when pressed against the sides of the set.


2) The center of the tube image is very sharp, but anything that is not in the center is out of focus. This looks especially bad with text, which is a big disappointment since I just picked up a Nintendo Wii, and a lot of game text appears on the edges of the screen.


Does anyone know if the two symptoms I noted above would be addressable under Sony's 5-year warranty? I can sort of understand if the image focusing thing isn't necessarily covered, but I have a hard time believing the magnetic sensitivty of this set is so bad that I can't have my CambridgeSound Works speakers within 3-feet of the set without producing green and purple visual effects.


Any info would be appreciated.


Thanks!


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Delhux* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 1) The tube seems unusually sensitive to the magnetic fields from my home theater speakers. I used to have the center speaker mounted on top of my old Sony SD set, and probably 8-10 inches to the side for the left and right channels. If I attempt that with the XBR960, I get horrible magnetic distortion. I've had to move the center speaker to the far rear of the top of the set, and the left and right channel speakers are 2-feet on either side of the set--and there is still some minor distortion from them. As I said, these speakers produced ZERO distortion on my old Sony SD set--even when pressed against the sides of the set.



What speakers do you have (make/model?)** Are you sure they aren't shielded? Have you noticed that the problem is definitively worse when the speakers are closer to the set or is it pretty much the same amount of distortion regardless of where you put the speakers?


This set is extremely sensitive to the Earth's magnetic field and as it waxes and wanes it sometimes causes discolored blotches to appear on the sides and/or corners of the set. This may be the culprit rather than your speakers. This can be fixed easily by adjusting the landing setting in the service menu, try moving the LAND setting down until the problem goes away


For the second part of your post there are also a focus adjustment in the service menu that might take care of your second problem.


Although I can't confirm it first hand I would imagine that these PQ issues are in fact covered by the Warranty... and if you're uneasy about poking around in the service menu it would be your best bet, but keep in mind sometimes though the techs really don't know what they're doing and instead of solving simple issues in the Service Menu they start tinkering with the hardware and doing other needless things that cause more harm than good.


**EDIT:


I just read your post again. I also have Cambridge Soundworks speakers (Newton M80's and an MC 500 for the L/R/C.) Is that your setup as well?


These speakers are all shielded. Unless something has gone wrong with the internal shielding in your speakers (or you have a model that isn't shielded... and I wasn't aware that Cambridge Soundworks made any unshielded HT speakers) this shouldn't be causing the magnetic distortion.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Delhux* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 2) The center of the tube image is very sharp, but anything that is not in the center is out of focus. This looks especially bad with text, which is a big disappointment since I just picked up a Nintendo Wii, and a lot of game text appears on the edges of the screen.



This is one of the flaws of a flat screen TV. Because the beam travels a farther distance at the edges of the screen, it will not be as well focused as the center. Sometimes it can be improved a little with service menu tweaking, but it takes a real fine eye and some good test patterns to do it - beyond what I think any tech would do. You best bet is to try to adjust it yourself.


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Delhux* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've had this set for a little more than 6-months now. I'm very happy with it. I did have to have a service technician come out to adjust some odd red lines that were appearing on the screen, but aside from that it has been pretty good. I picked it up as a Sony refurb, so I expected to have some "issues" with it.
> 
> 
> There are two things that do bother me, though.
> 
> 
> 1) The tube seems unusually sensitive to the magnetic fields from my home theater speakers. I used to have the center speaker mounted on top of my old Sony SD set, and probably 8-10 inches to the side for the left and right channels. If I attempt that with the XBR960, I get horrible magnetic distortion. I've had to move the center speaker to the far rear of the top of the set, and the left and right channel speakers are 2-feet on either side of the set--and there is still some minor distortion from them. As I said, these speakers produced ZERO distortion on my old Sony SD set--even when pressed against the sides of the set.
> 
> 
> 2) The center of the tube image is very sharp, but anything that is not in the center is out of focus. This looks especially bad with text, which is a big disappointment since I just picked up a Nintendo Wii, and a lot of game text appears on the edges of the screen.



Hrm maybe your speakers aren't magnetically shielded very well although its odd that it didn't effect your SD tv , I have my front speakers sitting right next to my XBR960 and the center channel sitting on top of the set with no issues.


I also notice text loses some focus at the edges of the screen with Xbox360/PS3 and other 1080i sources, however its not super pronounced and with a 480P source such as Wii you really shouldn't see that much of a loss in focus considering how large text is ,it sounds like you need to have the TV's focus adjusted, I have a Wii / PS3 / 360 hooked up and PS3 is the worst for this symptom, at 1080i the text is really small when using the built in web browser & the dashboard so the focus shift is more noticeable ( I usually switch it to 720p if I web browse which makes the text a lot nicer / bigger), but with Wii I havent noticed any issues.


----------



## Delhux

1) Thanks for the replies. I have a pair of CambridgeSound Works MC200 speakers for my left and right channels, and a MC300 sitting on top for a center channel.


I first thought it could be the speakers, but after testing with different sets and speaking with CambridgeSound Works, it appears to be something with the TV. I thought that perhaps because it is a refurb, that maybe the set itself was missing some sort of shielding. I really have no idea. I've been able to live with the speakers set up the way they are, but for audio-quality I really prefer to have the L/R speakers a little closer to the picture.


2) The focus issue is very pronounced. I could take some pics, but it shows up on sources from 480i to 1080i. Normally, it isn't a big deal. I've learned to live with blurry sports scores and unreadable fine print in commercials, but now that I'm playing the Wii I'm beginning to think I shouldn;t have to live with it.


I am an IT technician and would greatly prefer to do the adjustments myself--I'd hate to leave my PQ concerns to someone else's set of eyes. I'm not exactly a stranger to performing adjustments of this type for computer CRTs, but I haven't been able to find a very clear-cut set of instructions for adjustments on this set. Even just a listing of the what the values in the service menu refer to would be helpful.


Any ideas?


----------



## ckhirnigs113

Check out the thread on tweaking the service menu on Sony sets. There is a monstrous thread dealing with this specifically. -CK


----------



## DJF(NJ)

Sorry if I'm confirming what you already know, but I have the Cambridge MC300s as my left, center, and front speakers. The Center sits atop my 960 and there has never been a problem at all.


----------



## jamphanatic

Looking for a professional to calibrate my 960 in Peoria, IL.


----------



## jobi wan kenobi

I'll just throw this out there. I was in BestBuy in Portland, Maine the other day. As I always do, I wander through the dwindling CRT section. Much to my amazement, they had a KD34XBR960. I checked the tag, and the set itself, and sure enough, it was the 960, SFP and all. The picture quality from BB's HD feed was STUNNING!!!


I don't understand why they have this set. This store stopped carrying the 960 well over a year ago, and just recently dropped the 970 as well. Maybe they found one on the street corner or something?


This was probably a one-store-only thing, but if you happen to be in a BB, just stroll through the CRT aisle and see what they have.


BTW, the price was $1800, marked down to $1200, which is certainly in the 960 price range (as opposed to the 970's going for under $1k).


Remember, YMMV!!!(and probably will!!!)


----------



## G-Bull




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jobi wan kenobi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'll just throw this out there. I was in BestBuy in Portland, Maine the other day. As I always do, I wander through the dwindling CRT section. Much to my amazement, they had a KD34XBR960. I checked the tag, and the set itself, and sure enough, it was the 960, SFP and all. The picture quality from BB's HD feed was STUNNING!!!
> 
> 
> I don't understand why they have this set. This store stopped carrying the 960 well over a year ago, and just recently dropped the 970 as well. Maybe they sound one on the street corner or something?
> 
> 
> This was probably a one-store-only thing, but if you happen to be in a BB, just stroll through the CRT aisle and see what they have.
> 
> 
> BTW, the price was $1800, marked down to $1200, which is certainly in the 960 price range (as opposed to the 970's going for under $1k).
> 
> 
> Remember, YMMV!!!(and probably will!!!)



If I had to guess... which I don't... but I will anyway... I'd guess that somebody bought that set a couple years ago along with BB's in-home service plan. The customer had problems with the set, so BB's technicians were dispatched to the customer's home to fix it. The customer had another problem, and BB sent technicians out a second time. And a third time. Then the fourth time the customer had a problem, BB was required (under the terms of their service plan's "no lemon" policy) to take the TV back and give the customer a replacement. The TV went back to the BB service center, where technicians were able to fix the TV and get it up and running, and they then returned the set to the store shelves for sale as an "open box" item.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *G-Bull* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If I had to guess... which I don't... but I will anyway... I'd guess that somebody bought that set a couple years ago along with BB's in-home service plan. The customer had problems with the set, so BB's technicians were dispatched to the customer's home to fix it. The customer had another problem, and BB sent technicians out a second time. And a third time. Then the fourth time the customer had a problem, BB was required (under the terms of their service plan's "no lemon" policy) to take the TV back and give the customer a replacement. The TV went back to the BB service center, where technicians were able to fix the TV and get it up and running, and they then returned the set to the store shelves for sale as an "open box" item.



Not too sure about it being under a BB home service plan since the 960 came with Sony's own two year warranty with offers to extend it (and BB is an authorized Sony dealer). If it was unable to be repaired, any exchange or credit would have been between Sony and the former owner, not BB.


Would also love to know how it suddenly popped up.


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jobi wan kenobi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'll just throw this out there. I was in BestBuy in Portland, Maine the other day. As I always do, I wander through the dwindling CRT section. Much to my amazement, they had a KD34XBR960. I checked the tag, and the set itself, and sure enough, it was the 960, SFP and all. The picture quality from BB's HD feed was STUNNING!!!
> 
> 
> I don't understand why they have this set. This store stopped carrying the 960 well over a year ago, and just recently dropped the 970 as well. Maybe they sound one on the street corner or something?
> 
> 
> This was probably a one-store-only thing, but if you happen to be in a BB, just stroll through the CRT aisle and see what they have.
> 
> 
> BTW, the price was $1800, marked down to $1200, which is certainly in the 960 price range (as opposed to the 970's going for under $1k).
> 
> 
> Remember, YMMV!!!(and probably will!!!)




Some BB still have display XBR960s. I bought mine form BB few months back and I am very happy with its performance. Another BB here(Houston, TX) still has xbr960 on display side by side with xbr970. I went there just last week to check their display xbr960 to verify whether favorite function on my xbr960 works properly.


Anther BB in TX probably still has two xbr960s both open box pick up only though.


----------



## jobi wan kenobi

No Open Box sign on it.


----------



## G-Bull




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jobi wan kenobi* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No Open Box sign on it.



Wait - it's brand new in a box!?!? Even if you don't want it, buy it purely as an investment - because you know someone will buy it on an online auction for twice what you bought it for.


EDIT - Now that I think about it, that doesn't make sense. Your earlier post implied that the TV is on display and powered up. So the box _must_ be open if the TV isn't in the box...


----------



## Krychekxf

I'm in Houston with Comcast Cable (as of a week ago or so) and I was wondering if anyone has this problem with their 960? Only on HDTNT is the picture in zoom mode or stretch mode...all the other channels are fine. If there is a basketball game on the picture is fine but with commercials and other programming it's different. Is it just this channel or the tv? A friend of mine has a 55 inch Samsung and I checked their picture and it was normal. BTW, the picture was like this before Comcast took over Time Warner. Just fyi.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krychekxf* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm in Houston with Comcast Cable (as of a week ago or so) and I was wondering if anyone has this problem with their 960? Only on HDTNT is the picture in zoom mode or stretch mode...all the other channels are fine. If there is a basketball game on the picture is fine but with commercials and other programming it's different. Is it just this channel or the tv? A friend of mine has a 55 inch Samsung and I checked their picture and it was normal. BTW, the picture was like this before Comcast took over Time Warner. Just fyi.



Don't think all the content on TNT is broadcast in HD, thus the stretch.


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Krychekxf* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm in Houston with Comcast Cable (as of a week ago or so) and I was wondering if anyone has this problem with their 960? Only on HDTNT is the picture in zoom mode or stretch mode...all the other channels are fine. If there is a basketball game on the picture is fine but with commercials and other programming it's different. Is it just this channel or the tv? A friend of mine has a 55 inch Samsung and I checked their picture and it was normal. BTW, the picture was like this before Comcast took over Time Warner. Just fyi.



Welcome to TNTH, basically a last resort channel. Most of their broadcasts have some sort of distortion.


----------



## clarkschier

Does anyone know where I could fine a gently used one?


----------



## R8ders2K




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *clarkschier* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone know where I could fine a gently used one?



Where are you? As I'm considering moving up to a 40" Bravia XBR. I'm in the San Jose, CA area.


----------



## clarkschier




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *R8ders2K* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Where are you? As I'm considering moving up to a 40" Bravia XBR. I'm in the San Jose, CA area.



All the way across the country in Washington DC...


----------



## Johnny Pagan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *R8ders2K* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Where are you? As I'm considering moving up to a 40" Bravia XBR. I'm in the San Jose, CA area.



I'm looking for a XBR960 in the San Jose area. Please get in touch when you're ready to sell.


----------



## gamegod2x

if anyone is in the North VA/DC area im selling my xbr960, just PM me, thanks.


----------



## DJF(NJ)

Has anyone seen or know of this:

http://www.gandhiappliances.com/inde...bf676c034c8d56 


It has the SFP. I found this by searching for a multisystem TV with Scart RGB connections that was mentioned in another thread about TVs for gaming.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DJF(NJ)* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Has anyone seen or know of this:
> 
> http://www.gandhiappliances.com/inde...bf676c034c8d56
> 
> 
> It has the SFP. I found this by searching for a multisystem TV with Scart RGB connections that was mentioned in another thread about TVs for gaming.



450lb shipping weight







.


----------



## DJF(NJ)

I think that is a 'typo'. I was scanning the other TVs there and even the 14" model lists a 450lb shipping weight!


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi,


Proper color adjustment is probably the most difficult setting to get precisely since color is so subjective (it can look great but in actuality be either a little too strong or a little too weak). Today I got the THX blue tint glasses for use with the THX Optimizer appearing on certain DVDs.


On my DVR, I retained the test patterns broadcast on the old INHD network. They also suggest using blue filter glasses for color but gave no instructions on how to use them with their color test pattern. My guess is that the three viewable color circles should also be the same shade of blue (like with the THX optomizer). I was able to get them to appear the same.


Within each circle is a small square box and it is impossible to match as with the circles. Are these for use with something other than the blue filter?


Both my color settings for DVD and HD were slightly lower prior to using the blue tint glasses. I had it lower only because I was unsure if I was being fooled by a vivid picture with over-saturated color. Feel better knowing it is now precisely set according to actual test patterns rather than visual assesment.


If anyone is interested in obtaining the blue filter glasses, they are being sold for $1.00 at the THX website (cost of two with shipping was $5.00).


----------



## vidsonic

Service Center Stolen HDTV sets insides

Help, Service Center has switched, changed my KD-34XBR960N. I went to see how the set was performing before they return it and, wow, the power button has the paint on it almost completely worn off. Only the "PO" of the word Power is left. The button looks like it has been pushed thousands of times. I have had the set for 15 months. Always used in the "Pro" mode and have used it just lightly. I have not pushed that button 6 times. I use the remote control. My wife has never turned on the set with out me. There are NO kids in the house. I have shot, edit, among other thing, video since 1970(Sony 900 HD camera included). I have owned some of Sonys best cameras and gear and know how to treat equipment. I know my tools. The set at the Service Center has a Power button, and wear around it, that is not what left my home! The Serial Number on the back IS mine. How do I tell that the insides and the main case (w/Power Button) are from a set that had a different Serial Number? The back plastic shell, w/ser. # may just have been switched. My set was manufactured in Jan or Feb (it says on the back near the ser #) of 2006.


Any thoughts regarding this, PLEASE. John


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vidsonic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Service Center Stolen HDTV sets insides
> 
> Help, Service Center has switched, changed my KD-34XBR960N. I went to see how the set was performing before they return it and, wow, the power button has the paint on it almost completely worn off. Only the "PO" of the word Power is left. The button looks like it has been pushed thousands of times. I have had the set for 15 months. Always used in the "Pro" mode and have used it just lightly. I have not pushed that button 6 times. I use the remote control. My wife has never turned on the set with out me. There are NO kids in the house. I have shot, edit, among other thing, video since 1970(Sony 900 HD camera included). I have owned some of Sonys best cameras and gear and know how to treat equipment. I know my tools. The set at the Service Center has a Power button, and wear around it, that is not what left my home! The Serial Number on the back IS mine. How do I tell that the insides and the main case (w/Power Button) are from a set that had a different Serial Number? The back plastic shell, w/ser. # may just have been switched. My set was manufactured in Jan or Feb (it says on the back near the ser #) of 2006.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts regarding this, PLEASE. John



Why was the set at the service center? Has that problem been taken care of?


If so, ask your wife for some black fingernail polish, paint the word POWER back on and enjoy the set.


----------



## vidsonic

MY set is being stolen and you tell me to - what, enjoy it?


The other set in the shop has a manufacturing date of 3 years ago. Mine was made in 2006. I of course do not want a 3 year old set in exchange for my one year old set. I have used my set very little. The set they are now saying is mine shows great use.


I am am adding a jpg attachment to this post. It shows what I am talking about.


Please. I am asking for help. Can someone reply to my first post.


Please, and thank you.


John


----------



## patsan

Have you asked them what happened and did you let them know that this was not the body you brought in?

What was wrong with the television in the first place for you to bring in in for sevice?

I'd be furious, but unless you can prove that isn't your set, there's probably not much you can do.

I would contact the BBB and consumer affairs of your state if you can't get this rectified to your satisfaction.


----------



## vidsonic

The Main reason I had it serviced was a BLUE area on the right side of the picture (like it had had a magnet next to it, and poor resistration. The blue is gone. The registration is worst in the lower right.


But after seeing the condition of the box, the button and around it, I stopped thinking about the registration. That is NOT mine.


I know I can complain to BBB and others later. But NOW is when the set is in their location.


Can anyone hepl me with my questions in my first post?


Please


Thank You


John


----------



## vidsonic

Service Center is stealing my HD set

Help!

If you know the insides of the KD-34XBR960N, please read post Number #5393 and look at the jpg file in post number 5393.

I understand that different years the set was assembled in different locations.


Please help


Thank you,


John


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *vidsonic* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Service Center Stolen HDTV sets insides
> 
> Help, Service Center has switched, changed my KD-34XBR960N. I went to see how the set was performing before they return it and, wow, the power button has the paint on it almost completely worn off. Only the "PO" of the word Power is left. The button looks like it has been pushed thousands of times. I have had the set for 15 months. Always used in the "Pro" mode and have used it just lightly. I have not pushed that button 6 times. I use the remote control. My wife has never turned on the set with out me. There are NO kids in the house. I have shot, edit, among other thing, video since 1970(Sony 900 HD camera included). I have owned some of Sonys best cameras and gear and know how to treat equipment. I know my tools. The set at the Service Center has a Power button, and wear around it, that is not what left my home! The Serial Number on the back IS mine. How do I tell that the insides and the main case (w/Power Button) are from a set that had a different Serial Number? The back plastic shell, w/ser. # may just have been switched. My set was manufactured in Jan or Feb (it says on the back near the ser #) of 2006.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts regarding this, PLEASE. John



John,


So sorry to hear about your problem with the service center. My only suggestion is to have it stay there and contact Sony customer service and explain the problem, since you did take it to an authorized Sony service center. There might be a registration inside the set which can be checked. Also, there might be some internal parts that were used toward the end of production and not available three years prior. If these are inside your set, this would also be enough proof. Again, these are only guesses on my part.


When dealing with Sony Customer Service, don't accuse the service center of trying to swindle you (they will ask you what would be the advantage to them in making such a switch). Instead, let them know you are concerned because of the drastic difference with the power button and surrounding area and because they were repairing two 960's at the same time they could have accidentally replaced the back cabinet of your set on the other unit and therefore are giving you somebody else's set.


It is also possible that the power button and surrounding area was damaged by their own negligence and that too gives you every right to be furious. If it is determined this is your set and the cabinet has been damaged by them Sony Customer Service should make sure they restore it for you at no cost.


I do hope these suggestions help and that you do find that the set returned to you is the one you purchased.


- Joe


----------



## clarkschier




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *garyc8710* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have one for sale. Treated with kit gloves for the 15 months I've had it.Excellent condition.
> 
> Stunning picture. I'm selling it because I'm moving to a small apartment and it's just to heavy to lug up the stairs. I live in Pennsylvania. Will sell for $800.




Gary,

I'm interested in buying your 960 if it is still available. Where in Penn are you?

Thanks,

-Clark


----------



## Johnny Pagan

I found a 30XS955 for sale, and the owner claims the set was only used for 5 minutes before his wife unplugged it and exiled it to the garage. Is there some sort of timer/clock in the service menu, or elsewhere, where you can see the total elapsed time the set has been used?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Johnny Pagan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I found a 30XS955 for sale, and the owner claims the set was only used for 5 minutes before his wife unplugged it and exiled it to the garage. Is there some sort of timer/clock in the service menu, or elsewhere, where you can see the total elapsed time the set has been used?



Have no idea, but my instincts tell me that anyone who would have unplugged it after just five minutes would have returned the set to the store for a refund or credit rather than throwing away his or her money by storing it in a garage.


On the back of the set by the serial number you can at least find the month and year it was manufactured.


----------



## gr33dy

Does anyone know the last month/year Sony manufactured the 960/955?


----------



## bfife

*Selling Price for 960?*

Bought a 960 new in Feb '06 and am thinking of selling it. Don't have HD at this time and tired of moving the thing around and viewing the stretched out SD signal. It does have a scratch on the frame surrounding the screen but the screen is still 100%. I'm in central Wisconsin and would want it picked up. Any idea what kind of $$ I should ask?


----------



## au revoir

Hey bfife, check this out:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=874224


----------



## gregt777

It is so good to see so many CRT fans. I thought I was a alone. Taking nothing away from the new technologies, the fact that the issues of burn - in, blacks, motion artifacts, and lighting are not an issue with these Sonys, and Sony continues to make them, should tell us all something.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gregt777* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It is so good to see so many CRT fans. I thought I was a alone. Taking nothing away from the new technologies, the fact that the issues of burn - in, blacks, motion artifacts, and lighting are not an issue with these Sonys, and Sony continues to make them, should tell us all something.



I was with you up to the "Sony continues to make them" part.


----------



## au revoir

Well, they do still make those $20.000 professional studio monitors. And who knows, maybe they might start letting Orion or Samsung build CRT's for them, just to fool people for a short time and make a few quick bucks just prior to going bankrupt (if it ever came to that).


----------



## triumph66

Well believe it or not I cleaned my the screen on my 960 for the very first time yesterday. I bought it in Oct 2005. I just don't like messing with stuff like that if it's not bothering me.


Everything went fine but I came across one spot that was apparently a dot of oil or heavy grime. It smeared on the screen and elbow grease is only making it worse. I used water with a light amount of dish soap and that didn't work. I've read that goof-off will definitely remove the anti-glare coating, but that's heavy stuff. What about a little rubbing alcohol quickly applied? Does anyone have any suggestions?


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins

Goof-off won't remove the anti glare coating, it'll just make your TV act more serious.


Goo off will definitely remove it, though.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *triumph66* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well believe it or not I cleaned my the screen on my 960 for the very first time yesterday. I bought it in Oct 2005. I just don't like messing with stuff like that if it's not bothering me.
> 
> 
> Everything went fine but I came across one spot that was apparently a dot of oil or heavy grime. It smeared on the screen and elbow grease is only making it worse. I used water with a light amount of dish soap and that didn't work. I've read that goof-off will definitely remove the anti-glare coating, but that's heavy stuff. What about a little rubbing alcohol quickly applied? Does anyone have any suggestions?



Clear Windex and soft, clean rag.


----------



## Shadowx117

Hi I have had my 960 for about a year and a half now and I have noticed some overscan problems. Some things appear to be cut off on the right side of the screen and I want to try and fix this of course. I saw some links to overscan threads but when I clicked them it said that the archive was to old and to try looking here and here but I had no luck.

I was under the impression that this could be fixed in teh Service Menu and I thought I could use an Avia calibration disk to do so. Well I rented Avia but now I am not sure what to do as it appears the grid patterns ect are in 4:3 and not 16:9. Any help in explaining why this is and exactly what to do and where to find it would be great. I would just look around in the menu myself but I have heard you can realy mess stuff up there so obviously I want to be safe.

PS I know this must have been asked a lot before but this thread is so long now and everything is so crammed together it is hard for me to find straight answers so I hope I am not pissing anyone off to much asking for help here. Thanks again in advance.


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shadowx117* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was under the impression that this could be fixed in teh Service Menu and I thought I could use an Avia calibration disk to do so. Well I rented Avia but now I am not sure what to do as it appears the grid patterns ect are in 4:3 and not 16:9. Any help in explaining why this is and exactly what to do and where to find it would be great.



The archived posts that you couldn't find explain it best. Click the link again(it's post 3333 of this thread) and it will take you to a page asking if you want archives from pre-2005 or archives from 01/05 - 06/06. Click on the link for the 01/05-06/06 archives. It will take you to a post from DSperber from 12-14-05, 11:34 PM. In that post, there is an attachment with the 16x9 test pattern you are looking for as well as instructions for how to use them. Also in the body of that post is another link to one of his posts dated 11-28-05, 07:28 PM that explains how to correct the problems you find using the service menu. I have all 3 posts bookmarked and I just checked them, so they are all still there. Good luck.


----------



## DJF(NJ)




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bfife* /forum/post/0
> 
> *Selling Price for 960?*
> 
> Bought a 960 new in Feb '06 and am thinking of selling it. Don't have HD at this time and tired of moving the thing around and viewing the stretched out SD signal. It does have a scratch on the frame surrounding the screen but the screen is still 100%. I'm in central Wisconsin and would want it picked up. Any idea what kind of $$ I should ask?



Why not get a HD and/or Blue Ray player and hold on to that thing longer? That's about all I use my 960 for.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shadowx117* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hi I have had my 960 for about a year and a half now and I have noticed some overscan problems.....I was under the impression that this could be fixed in teh Service Menu and I thought I could use an Avia calibration disk to do so. Well I rented Avia but now I am not sure what to do as it appears the grid patterns ect are in 4:3 and not 16:9.......



The 16:9 patterns on Avia are in the Chap 7, Widescreen Enhanced section. Most of these are geometry/convergence patterns. The resolution pattern has overscan indications on it. I believe the outer white lines represent 1% to 5%(thick line) overscan.


There's a lot of information at Ovation Avia .


----------



## edwinsagain

hi everybody, 1st post. long time reader. well, I hate to do it, but I am selling my baby. yup, the 960 has gotta go. Moved to Charlotte area and this TV is just too big for the room. still have original remote, picture looks great. really gonna miss her. asking for $800. once again, I live in the charlotte, NC area. send me a message. I decided to post here because I want her to go to a good home where she will be loved. My first HDTV, I owe her that much.....


----------



## Shadowx117




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LongRufus* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The archived posts that you couldn't find explain it best. Click the link again(it's post 3333 of this thread) and it will take you to a page asking if you want archives from pre-2005 or archives from 01/05 - 06/06. Click on the link for the 01/05-06/06 archives. It will take you to a post from DSperber from 12-14-05, 11:34 PM. In that post, there is an attachment with the 16x9 test pattern you are looking for as well as instructions for how to use them. Also in the body of that post is another link to one of his posts dated 11-28-05, 07:28 PM that explains how to correct the problems you find using the service menu. I have all 3 posts bookmarked and I just checked them, so they are all still there. Good luck.




Thanks I was able to fix the overscan. Now I was wondering if I should try to fix some minor bowing and other geometry problems or if that is just to big of a pain since I am not real familiar with this stuff. Any suggestions? Also is there anything that you suggest I do within the service menu and or with avia while I rent it? Is there any one thing that you think improves picture significantly? Is there a bunch of things? This goes to anyone not just you Rufus. Thanks again.

Also thank you Raoulii I found the 16:9 stuff.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shadowx117* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ..... Also is there anything that you suggest I do within the service menu and or with avia while I rent it? Is there any one thing that you think improves picture significantly? Is there a bunch of things? ......



IMHO order:

Color Decoder

Black level (Brightness)

White level (Picture)

Geometry

Convergence

Focus


Gray Scale but very difficult without test equipment


----------



## au revoir

What settings control the color decoder? RDRV, BDRV, GDRV? Do you need filters to do this?


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *au revoir* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What settings control the color decoder? RDRV, BDRV, GDRV? Do you need filters to do this?



No, DRVs and CUTs are for Gray Scale adjustment, which should not, IMHO, be attempted without test equipment or advanced knowledge. If you venture into it, PLEASE write down your original settings.


The color decoder is adjusted using 2170P-4, SCLO, SHUO, RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB. The decoder should be adjusted in Pro picture mode with the color and hue sliders set to the mid point and color temperature at neutral. I adjust my decoder by turning off color guns with 2170P-2, RGBS instead of using filters. Caution: Steer clear of RGBS=0, which turns off all guns. If this happens, don't panic, just step the value back up.


I like the blinking color patterns on AVIA for this. If I recall correctly, set blue with SCLO and SHUO and the blue pattern, red with RYR and RYB and the red pattern, and green with GYR and GYB and the green pattern.


It appears that the later sets have settings for both Normal and Special Axis, while my set does not. I'm not really sure which one equates with the Default (emphasizes red tones) and Monitor (de-emphasizes red tones) selection in the Picture Settings menu, under Advanced Settings, Color Axis. It appears that the Normal RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB service manual defaults are 8, 9, 9, 6 while the Special Axis RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB defaults are 15, 15, 9, 3. Some investigation may be in order.


----------



## au revoir

I will look into these settings because my set is new (it's a 970) and while most of the factory settings are pretty good, some need work (convergence, overscan, geometry, and reducing the excessive bass in the audio settings).


So what is the goal here, once you are in the SM and have the blinking color patterns displayed? Sorry to keep asking questions, but I am wondering how far my settings might be off because the colors seem on my set seem a little washed out or something, maybe some sort of color cast problem.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The 16:9 patterns on Avia are in the Chap 7, Widescreen Enhanced section. Most of these are geometry/convergence patterns. The resolution pattern has overscan indications on it. I believe the outer white lines represent 1% to 5%(thick line) overscan.
> 
> 
> There's a lot of information at Ovation Avia .



With the overscan test, my 960 goes to the 5% line on both the top and bottom. Is this considered acceptable?


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> With the overscan test, my 960 goes to the 5% line on both the top and bottom. Is this considered acceptable?



I believe 5% has historically been acceptable. However, it appears many gamers are requiring less than that for their uses.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *au revoir* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> .....So what is the goal here, once you are in the SM and have the blinking color patterns displayed? Sorry to keep asking questions, but I am wondering how far my settings might be off because the colors seem on my set seem a little washed out or something, maybe some sort of color cast problem.



I believe AVIA has good tutorial/help information that explains the process. Basically, the pattern has color squares of the primary and additive secondary colors along with white. The adjustments are for gain and hue of each primary color. RGB Model 


If memory serves:


With the blue gun only, SCLO is used to set blue gain (match the intensity of the blue square to the white area/square). SHUO is used to set blue hue (match the intensity of the secondary color squares containing blue, magenta and cyan)


With the red gun only, RYR is used to set red gain (match the intensity of the red square to the white area/square). RYB is used to set red hue (match the intensity of the secondary color squares containing red, magenta and yellow)


With the green gun only, GYR is used to set green gain (match the intensity of the green square to the white area/square). GYB is used to set green hue (match the intensity of the secondary color squares containing green, yellow and cyan)


Note: There are three test patterns on AVIA that work well for this adjustment. Each pattern is for a different primary color. The patterns consist of the primary color in a square against a white background and white in a square against the primary color background for gain/saturation adjustment. There are additive secondary colors in squares against each other for hue adjustment. What is very helpful is that the squares blink, which makes it much easier to judge when the intensity matches the background because the blinking stops.










Hope this helps


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I believe 5% has historically been acceptable. However, it appears many gamers are requiring less than that for their uses.



Can understand why, with the information sometimes being so close to the top.


----------



## au revoir




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I believe AVIA has good tutorial/help information that explains the process. Basically, the pattern has color squares of the primary and additive secondary colors along with white. The adjustments are for gain and hue of each primary color. RGB Model
> 
> 
> If memory serves:
> 
> 
> With the blue gun only, SCLO is used to set blue gain (match the intensity of the blue square to the white area/square). SHUO is used to set blue hue (match the intensity of the secondary color squares containing blue, magenta and cyan)
> 
> 
> With the red gun only, RYR is used to set red gain (match the intensity of the red square to the white area/square). RYB is used to set red hue (match the intensity of the secondary color squares containing red, magenta and yellow)
> 
> 
> With the green gun only, GYR is used to set green gain (match the intensity of the green square to the white area/square). GYB is used to set green hue (match the intensity of the secondary color squares containing green, yellow and cyan)
> 
> 
> Hope this helps



Wow, thanks for the tutorial!


That sounds like it may well be beyond anything I could be trusted to figure out at this point. Maybe I might just experiment with other people's SCLO, SHUO, RYR, RYB, GYR, GYB, settings which they have posted on the Sony Service Codes thread, and see if I notice any positive improvement. If the difference looks dramatic enough, maybe I will attempt it.


The process sounds a little bit like when I used some Viewsonic software they provided for calibrating their CRT monitors, where you had to squint your eyes and decide which colored square most closely matched a color swatch displayed on the screen. Every time I would go through the process my settings would come out slightly different. But I think it helped make the monitor look better.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *au revoir* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Maybe I might just experiment with other people's SCLO, SHUO, RYR, RYB, GYR, GYB, settings which they have posted on the Sony Service Codes thread, and see if I notice any positive improvement. If the difference looks dramatic enough, maybe I will attempt it.



The interaction between service menu tweaks and user menu settings must be emphasized. When you see someone's service menu settings presented for you to try, don't forget that they have balancing user menu settings which are needed to complete the story.


In my case, I found that SCLO and SHUO were perfect at the default of 7 which came with my XBR960. However I had the common "red push" symptom, where human skin tone was reddish. I found that setting RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB to a set of values I had seen recommended in the "tweaks" thread resulted in the single most gigantically significant visible result in my own personal adjustment effort. Skin tone is now absolutely perfect... using "Leno" show as the true reference material.


Here are my settings (for my INPUT6, which is where I watch 720p/1080i through from TWC cable 6412-II DVR as well as JVC D-VHS and OTA).


Mode PRO

Picture 35

Brightness 32

Color 31

Hue 0

Sharpness MIN

Color Temp COOL

Clear Edge OFF

Color Axis DEFAULT


SCLO 7 (7 is default)

SHUO 7 (7 is default)

RYR 13 (8 is default)

RYB 15 (9 is default)

GYR 5 (9 is default)

GYB 4 (6 is default)



NOTE 1: I watch TV in a dark room, typically at night. No light. That's when the magnificence of the XBR960 can truly be seen and appreciated. If your viewing conditions are different (e.g. trying to watch or adjust in broad daylight) your preferred settings will obviously be affected (and be incorrect, if you ask me). For example, my cousin has an XBR800 and watches lots of TV during the day in a family room filled with daylight. He uses "STANDARD" (rather than PRO) to get the boosted brightness and contrast he needs during the day, but this is not appropriate for night viewing of high quality HDTV content where less brightness and less contrast produces a "better" picture.


NOTE 2: others have slightly different values for RYR, RYB, GYR, GYB but they also might have slightly different user settings than I do. I prefer "cool" color temperature and "default" (rather than "monitor") for color axis. My RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB service settings are obviously tied to those user settings.


Your own settings should reflect what you personally think looks best.


Again... YMMV. But RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB in their Sony factory default states are 100% agreed to be incorrect (resulting in red push), and you should absolutely adjust them.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> With the overscan test, my 960 goes to the 5% line on both the top and bottom. Is this considered acceptable?



As has been pointed out, this is sort of subjective... depending on what you watch and how much you need to see.


Personally, I'm a 0% "gamer" and have zero needs in that regard. However my HDTV viewing taste prefers to see as much as I can of of "crawls" and "scorebars" at top and bottom, and don't like to see station "bugs" cut off. I also enjoy seeing everything (or as much as I can) in the image frame on left and right... as long as there's no video "noise" (or digital data) shown.


So my own personal overscan adjustments is probably 1-2% (I found 0% revealed unwanted video stuff on HBOHD at the top when they were showing non-HD 4:3 content and I didn't want to change my vertical centering to try and compensate, rather than increase overscan percentage, which was perfect to my eyes for HD 16:9 content).


I like seeing whatever is being broadcast. Hence my near-0 overscan percentage.


NOTE: the lower the overscan percentage, the more image data must be presented in the same 16:9 34" diagonal screen area. Hence the entire image will appear to be "shrunk" slightly (as if you were "zooming out" with a telephoto lens on a camera) in order to display everything. You may find people and objects to appear smaller than you like, but I'm sure you will adjust to it easily.


If you increase the overscan percentage (cropping out more of the perimiter of the image), what remains will appear larger, since it's really been "zoomed in" on to fill the same 16:9 34" diagonal screen area. You may prefer this slightly magnified image and not care at all about what you've lost in perimiter image.


Whatever you prefer is right for you. But I'd say 5% is the absolute highest value you should tolerate.


----------



## bkchurch

I've noticed a few people on here saying they're looking to sell their XBR960s and I happen to be looking to purchase one. If there's anyone here who wants to sell their 960 and is willing to ship it to Maine please PM me with an asking price.


----------



## au revoir




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The interaction between service menu tweaks and user menu settings must be emphasized. When you see someone's service menu settings presented for you to try, don't forget that they have balancing user menu settings which are needed to complete the story.
> 
> 
> In my case, I found that SCLO and SHUO were perfect at the default of 7 which came with my XBR960. However I had the common "red push" symptom, where human skin tone was reddish. I found that setting RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB to a set of values I had seen recommended in the "tweaks" thread resulted in the single most gigantically significant visible result in my own personal adjustment effort. Skin tone is now absolutely perfect... using "Leno" show as the true reference material.
> 
> 
> Here are my settings (for my INPUT6, which is where I watch 720p/1080i through from TWC cable 6412-II DVR as well as JVC D-VHS and OTA).
> 
> 
> Mode PRO
> 
> Picture 35
> 
> Brightness 32
> 
> Color 31
> 
> Hue 0
> 
> Sharpness MIN
> 
> Color Temp COOL
> 
> Clear Edge OFF
> 
> Color Axis DEFAULT
> 
> 
> SCLO 7 (7 is default)
> 
> SHUO 7 (7 is default)
> 
> RYR 13 (8 is default)
> 
> RYB 15 (9 is default)
> 
> GYR 5 (9 is default)
> 
> GYB 4 (6 is default)
> 
> 
> 
> NOTE 1: I watch TV in a dark room, typically at night. No light. That's when the magnificence of the XBR960 can truly be seen and appreciated. If your viewing conditions are different (e.g. trying to watch or adjust in broad daylight) your preferred settings will obviously be affected (and be incorrect, if you ask me). For example, my cousin has an XBR800 and watches lots of TV during the day in a family room filled with daylight. He uses "STANDARD" (rather than PRO) to get the boosted brightness and contrast he needs during the day, but this is not appropriate for night viewing of high quality HDTV content where less brightness and less contrast produces a "better" picture.
> 
> 
> NOTE 2: others have slightly different values for RYR, RYB, GYR, GYB but they also might have slightly different user settings than I do. I prefer "cool" color temperature and "default" (rather than "monitor") for color axis. My RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB service settings are obviously tied to those user settings.
> 
> 
> Your own settings should reflect what you personally think looks best.
> 
> 
> Again... YMMV. But RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB in their Sony factory default states are 100% agreed to be incorrect (resulting in red push), and you should absolutely adjust them.



Thanks for the settings and the info!


I plugged these settings into my 970 (after writing down the original ones) and was impressed with the somewhat dramatic changes. Seems to have had the effect reducing my "color" setting by about 4 clicks and making colors look more "neutral" and maybe even slightly bluish. Black levels seem higher for certain material.


Very interesting. FYI, my original settings were:


SCLO 12

SHUO 7

RYR 7

RYB 8

GYR 9

GYB 3


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> As has been pointed out, this is sort of subjective... depending on what you watch and how much you need to see.
> 
> 
> Personally, I'm a 0% "gamer" and have zero needs in that regard. However my HDTV viewing taste prefers to see as much as I can of of "crawls" and "scorebars" at top and bottom, and don't like to see station "bugs" cut off. I also enjoy seeing everything (or as much as I can) in the image frame on left and right... as long as there's no video "noise" (or digital data) shown.
> 
> 
> So my own personal overscan adjustments is probably 1-2% (I found 0% revealed unwanted video stuff on HBOHD at the top when they were showing non-HD 4:3 content and I didn't want to change my vertical centering to try and compensate, rather than increase overscan percentage, which was perfect to my eyes for HD 16:9 content).
> 
> 
> I like seeing whatever is being broadcast. Hence my near-0 overscan percentage.
> 
> 
> NOTE: the lower the overscan percentage, the more image data must be presented in the same 16:9 34" diagonal screen area. Hence the entire image will appear to be "shrunk" slightly (as if you were "zooming out" with a telephoto lens on a camera) in order to display everything. You may find people and objects to appear smaller than you like, but I'm sure you will adjust to it easily.
> 
> 
> If you increase the overscan percentage (cropping out more of the perimiter of the image), what remains will appear larger, since it's really been "zoomed in" on to fill the same 16:9 34" diagonal screen area. You may prefer this slightly magnified image and not care at all about what you've lost in perimiter image.
> 
> 
> Whatever you prefer is right for you. But I'd say 5% is the absolute highest value you should tolerate.



Is there a way to adjust the overscan in the diagnostics menu? All I'm able to do is use the vertical center to get both the top and bottom lines even.


----------



## Shadowx117

Raouliiii (and others), how exactly do you know how to tweak the color settings to where they are accurate? I keep hearing about how the set is red biased, is this true even in the monitor setting? If so how do I fix these settings and know where the "perfect" color settings are? It just seems to me like it is all a matter of preference and eyeballing it, but I am guessing there is a technique you can use with Avia or DVE ect. Thanks.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shadowx117* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Raouliiii (and others), how exactly do you know how to tweak the color settings to where they are accurate? I keep hearing about how the set is red biased, is this true even in the monitor setting? If so how do I fix these settings and know where the "perfect" color settings are? It just seems to me like it is all a matter of preference and eyeballing it, but I am guessing there is a technique you can use with Avia or DVE ect. Thanks.



No need to spend extra money on Avia or DVE. Use the THX optomizer that is on Star Wars 2 and other THX mastered DVDs.


The THX optomizer has test patterns and instructions for brightness, contrast (picture), sharpness, color and tint. Instead of just the standard color bar for eyeballing, it also includes a special test for use with a pair of "blue filter" glasses (available for $1.00 plus shipping through the THX optomizer website) to insure precise color and tint settings. Unlike subjective color bars, this test is composed of the words "color" and "tint". The letters are in different colors but when seen through the glasses each appears blue, with some lighter and the others darker. Ajust the color level until all five letters of the word "color" are the same shade. Adjust the tint in the same manner. That's it. There is no guess work because the test is based on all letters appearing the same uniform level of brightness.


I use the Pro mode with the color axis set to default mode and the color temperature neutral. With the blue filter glasses I discovered I had the color just a slight bit too weak (from 36 to 37 - yes, with the 960 there is a noticable difference in brightness/darkness even with one notch). The tint went from -1 to 0.


Please note this is for DVD only. The settings for HDMI most likely will be a little different. INHD (now MoJo) used to broadcast HD test patterns which I fortunately retained on DVR. FYI - based on these tests my HD settings are: Pro Mode, Picture 37, Brightness 25, Color 39, Tint R1, Sharpness 29 with neutral color temperature, low clear edge, default for the color axis and interlaced DCR mode.


Hope this helps. I certainly feel better knowing that my adjustments are set to specific standards rather than guesswork.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shadowx117* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Raouliiii (and others), how exactly do you know how to tweak the color settings to where they are accurate? I keep hearing about how the set is red biased, is this true even in the monitor setting? If so how do I fix these settings and know where the "perfect" color settings are? It just seems to me like it is all a matter of preference and eyeballing it, but I am guessing there is a technique you can use with Avia or DVE ect. Thanks.



I explained the color decoder calibration technique in posts 5418 and 5422 on the previous page. Good luck


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ...... Unlike subjective color bars, this test is composed of the words "color" and "tint". The letters are in different colors but when seen through the glasses each appears blue, with some lighter and the others darker. Ajust the color level until all five letters of the word "color" are the same shade. Adjust the tint in the same manner. That's it. There is no guess work because the test is based on all letters appearing the same uniform level of brightness.......I certainly feel better knowing that my adjustments are set to specific standards rather than guesswork.



This will only adjust for user menu color(gain) and tint(hue) and is dependent on already having a calibrated color decoder. Adjusting for blue only will not calibrate the color decoder.


----------



## Shadowx117




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I explained the color decoder calibration technique in posts 5418 and 5422 on the previous page. Good luck




Yes I see that you did but when you said that you used the blinking colors in Avia, I was wondering what exactly you do to make the colors correct. Sorry if I am naive but I am new to color tweaking and the service menu in general. Do you just look at the color bar and make sure there is no blooming? I assumed that there was more to it and that it was more advanced than this with all of the color patterns on the DVD and the service menu being involved.


----------



## ck100

I used to have one of these TV's. They are pretty good.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shadowx117* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes I see that you did but when you said that you used the blinking colors in Avia, I was wondering what exactly you do to make the colors correct. Sorry if I am naive but I am new to color tweaking and the service menu in general. Do you just look at the color bar and make sure there is no blooming? I assumed that there was more to it and that it was more advanced than this with all of the color patterns on the DVD and the service menu being involved.



Color decoder alignment is fairly straight forward. For example Red calibration: With the red gun on only or looking through a red filter, red and white will not look equivalent in intensity until the red saturation/gain RYR is adjusted correctly. Magenta and yellow will not look equivalent in intensity until the red hue RYB is adjusted correctly. There may be some need to go back and forth between the two a couple of times. The blinking squares make these adjustments very easy. The blinking stops/almost stops and the colors match when you are as close as you can be. BTW, the other colors will be black because they have no red component. In many cases, absolute perfection can not be achieved because of the coarseness of the available values or a max/min has been reached.


----------



## Shadowx117

I see, well that helps alot but you see I don't even know how to make it so that only the "red gun" is on. When you say gun are you talking about the thing in the back that actually fires the particles at the screen? Sorry, I obviously have a lack of knowledge of all of this but I am trying to learn a little.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shadowx117* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I see, well that helps alot but you see I don't even know how to make it so that only the "red gun" is on. When you say gun are you talking about the thing in the back that actually fires the particles at the screen? Sorry, I obviously have a lack of knowledge of all of this but I am trying to learn a little.



If you haven't done so already take a look at this thread started by Ken Tech

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...light=Ken+Tech 


There is a ton of great info in it on working in the service menu.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shadowx117* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I see, well that helps alot but you see I don't even know how to make it so that only the "red gun" is on. When you say gun are you talking about the thing in the back that actually fires the particles at the screen? Sorry, I obviously have a lack of knowledge of all of this but I am trying to learn a little.



I discussed that in post 5418 of this thread. Write down all of your service menu values before changing anything.


----------



## au revoir

raouliii, thanks for the great instructions on adjusting the color decoder! I messed up the first time because I adjusted SCOL instead of SLCO, but after I went through the process a couple of times, it took maybe 5 minutes from start to finish.


I was able to adjust my XBR970's color decoder by just displaying a standard color bar pattern, since those have white and all the primary and secondary colors. I was surprised that the factory settings were so far off. HD programs look really stunning now, and skin tones are perfect.


After seeing the difference this made, I really want to get my grayscale properly adjusted, since the factory probably did an equally poor job on that. But at least I don't have any color cast when watching B & W programs or old movies, so grayscale is probably reasonably accurate.


Thanks again!


UPDATE: I used this same procedure to adjust a Sony KV420-HS 32" set. The HD and DVD inputs looked good, but there was a weird red/green color balance problem over the S-video and NTSC inputs, which are what the set is mostly used for.


All of the various channels I tuned in either looked too red or too green, and hardly anything had a correct hue. Changing the "tint" setting did not correct it.


I ended up going back to the original factory settings, which look 100% better.


So use caution, and definitely save your original settings.


----------



## darrin_p_s

Today I was cleaning my KD34XBR960 with just a cloth...no cleaner...not even water...just a soft cloth used for window cleaning. I noticed that there was a short line that I thought was just some sort of grease mark, but when I rubbed a little harder to get the spot out, I noticed that some sort of coatig was begiining to come off in what now is about an inch or so area!










When you turn the TV on you can't really tell, but it looks bad just sitting there like that.


Has anyone else experienced this?


Is it covered under warranty?


If not, can I do anything (not too expensive) to have it reapplied?


Should I just remove the rest of it?


ARGHH!!!


----------



## Kool-aid23

*Wow! Same thing happened to me last week when I was cleaning my set. If you check, there seems to be numerous people who also had this happen. The anti-glare coating begins to come off. Some have attempted to remove it with mixed results. Likewise, some have contacted Sony with mixed results. From what I read, I do not believe this falls under warranty.*


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kool-aid23* /forum/post/0
> 
> *Wow! Same thing happened to me last week when I was cleaning my set. If you check, there seems to be numerous people who also had this happen. The anti-glare coating begins to come off. Some have attempted to remove it with mixed results. Likewise, some have contacted Sony with mixed results. From what I read, I do not believe this falls under warranty.*












Makes me a little worried, since screens, at the minimum, need to be dusted. I do rub the screen lightly but will make sure I'm extra-extra gentle from now on. Every other week I also wash down the screen with a slightly water-damped cloth and then dry it down to avoid streaks. Is letting it dry on it's own better?


----------



## the_zakman

I am looking to purchase a new dvd player for my 34"xbr960. I want something that will play my existing library of dvds and provide excellent video quality on my tv. I am confused with all the models and features. I am thinking of either a Playstation 3, a Toshiba A2 HDDVD player or an OPPO dvd player with upconversion.


I tried a friend's PS3 on my tv via HDMI. The picture quality for games was awesome! The blu-ray movies look great also. However, standard dvds had poorer quality than my older progressive scan dvd player even with the upscaling set to 1080i on the PS3.


I still have a library of standard dvds I would like to play. Has anyone tried the Toshiba A2 or one of the OPPO players for standard dvds via HDMI and how was the picture quality? Also, has anyone run into the same problem I did with the PS3 playing standard dvds?


I'm looking for something to get me through the next couple years until one of the formats wins. Any experiences or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks !


----------



## au revoir

Try posting your question here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=18 


I got the $99 Sony DVP-NS77H at Target and am satisfied with it's performance over HDMI with my XBR 970. Target also carries a Phillips upscaling DVD player for $75 that has a USB port for attaching a hard drive or flash drive.


I would say that those two are the most popular choices, but many people who are willing to spend another $50-100 report that the Oppo players do a good job.


Keep in mind that none of these players comes with an HDMI cable, so this will be an additional expense of between $10 (online) to $50 and up (retail).


----------



## mortaldivine




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *the_zakman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am looking to purchase a new dvd player for my 34"xbr960. I want something that will play my existing library of dvds and provide excellent video quality on my tv. I am confused with all the models and features. I am thinking of either a Playstation 3, a Toshiba A2 HDDVD player or an OPPO dvd player with upconversion.
> 
> 
> I tried a friend's PS3 on my tv via HDMI. The picture quality for games was awesome! The blu-ray movies look great also. However, standard dvds had poorer quality than my older progressive scan dvd player even with the upscaling set to 1080i on the PS3.
> 
> 
> I still have a library of standard dvds I would like to play. Has anyone tried the Toshiba A2 or one of the OPPO players for standard dvds via HDMI and how was the picture quality? Also, has anyone run into the same problem I did with the PS3 playing standard dvds?
> 
> 
> I'm looking for something to get me through the next couple years until one of the formats wins. Any experiences or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks !



PS3 - They released a new firmware for upconverting SD DVD's. I still think its too expensive.

A2 - This is what I have. I was blown away by the improved upconverting compared to my sony upconverting player. Only issue is the slower response compared to sd players.

OPPO - Suppose to have the best upconverting for the price. Some people say the A2 is just as good but some people say the oppo is better.


For the price of the OPPO, I would rather get the A2 and enjoy some HD from netflix.


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> I am thinking of either a Playstation 3, a Toshiba A2 HDDVD player or an OPPO dvd player with upconversion.



I would go for Blu ray player since Blue ray seems to be winning the format war. PS3 is solid Blu ray player according to reviews.



> Quote:
> I still have a library of standard dvds I would like to play. Has anyone tried the Toshiba A2 or one of the OPPO players for standard dvds via HDMI and how was the picture quality? Also, has anyone run into the same problem I did with the PS3 playing standard dvds?



I do not have ps3 myself, but you can probably set DVDs to 480i on ps3 and let the TV to do the upscaling. A lot of people seem to be happy with the TV scaler for DVDs.


----------



## Kool-aid23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Makes me a little worried, since screens, at the minimum, need to be dusted. I do rub the screen lightly but will make sure I'm extra-extra gentle from now on. Every other week I also wash down the screen with a slightly water-damped cloth and then dry it down to avoid streaks. Is letting it dry on it's own better?



I've calmed down with the number of times I dust the screen since my spot arrived. I do nothing but wipe with a soft cloth now. I'm too scared to use water now. I was trying to make myself believe this happened telling me it's time to upgrade to a plasma.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kool-aid23* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've calmed down with the number of times I dust the screen since my spot arrived. I do nothing but wipe with a soft cloth now. I'm too scared to use water now. I was trying to make myself believe this happened telling me it's time to upgrade to a plasma.



The Lord works in strange ways.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




the_zakman said:


> I am looking to purchase a new dvd player for my 34"xbr960. I want something that will play my existing library of dvds and provide excellent video quality on my tv. I am confused with all the models and features. I am thinking of either a Playstation 3, a Toshiba A2 HDDVD player or an OPPO dvd player with upconversion.
> 
> 
> I tried a friend's PS3 on my tv via HDMI. The picture quality for games was awesome! The blu-ray movies look great also. However, standard dvds had poorer quality than my older progressive scan dvd player even with the upscaling set to 1080i on the PS3.
> 
> QUOTE]
> 
> 
> I find the 960's upconversion of a 480i signal much better than the progressive scan (480p) output from my DVD recorder or HD box (for non-HD stations). The 960's line-doubler upconversion is claimed to be close to that of HD; my DVD pictures are so sharp and crisp that I doubt the investment in a HD or Blue-Ray player at this time would justify the cost. I also notice that standard definition stations are better without any upconversion from the cable box.
> 
> 
> While I've been told that Playstation, X-box, etc. look great, many in the forum have agreed that these devices were primarily designed for video games and lack when it comes to playing DVDs.
> 
> 
> Improvements have been made in standard DVD players so if you have a model that is about five years old getting a new one won't hurt. But don't go and get a second HDMI cable and switch box until checking the upconversion of these new players against that of the 960 - I posted such an inquiry months ago and many replied they either found no difference or that the 960's upconversion was even better. Only one or two thought the upconverting DVD player improved picture quality. Also keep in mind that progressive scan signals cannot be upconverted by the 960 or any other HD device.


----------



## Krychekxf

I downloaded the opening minute of The Matrix in HD off of Xbox Live for free. The picture was really stunning I thought. I have a Sony upconvert player and I think that does a really good job but there is room for improvement it seems. I'm still happy enough though....for now.


----------



## R8ders2K

Well, after almost 7 months of having my 960, I finally got my HDMI problem fixed. Got tried to my family watching DVD via a PlayStation 2. Went to Fry's, showed 'em my extended warranty paperwork and the rest is history.


An outside tech came to my house today (Tuesday), replaced the HDMI card/board and all appears to be fine.


The only ***** was putting everything back together...










Been watching Star Trek: Nemesis and Amy Grant's Greatest Videos in 1080i with no problems. Previously, the screen would go black after approximately 5-10 minutes while watching a DVD or DIRECTV via HDMI.


So, if you think you might be having a HDMI handshake issue, and if you're still under warranty, consider getting that HDMI board replaced.


Now to get a new HDMI switch, as the Monoprice 5-port (v2.1) switch I got still doesn't play nice with my Oppo 981.


Anyone using this combination (960 & 981) with either Monoprice's new 4-port HDMI or XtremeMac's XtremeHD switch?


Well, I ended up retuning the 5x1 (2.1) switch for the Monoprice 4x1 (2.5) switch. Everything (981, D* HD H20, D* HR20, and Apple TV) is now working together like it's supposed to.


----------



## Bobdo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *darrin_p_s* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Today I was cleaning my KD34XBR960 with just a cloth...no cleaner...not even water...just a soft cloth used for window cleaning. I noticed that there was a short line that I thought was just some sort of grease mark, but when I rubbed a little harder to get the spot out, I noticed that some sort of coatig was begiining to come off in what now is about an inch or so area!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you turn the TV on you can't really tell, but it looks bad just sitting there like that.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else experienced this?
> 
> 
> Is it covered under warranty?
> 
> 
> If not, can I do anything (not too expensive) to have it reapplied?
> 
> 
> Should I just remove the rest of it?
> 
> 
> ARGHH!!!



uh oh...i had this same thing about a year+ ago. i thought it was on the outside of the glass...but upon closer inspection it was on the inside of the glass. i call sony to see about a repair...they say ok, call their service dealers. first guy thinks i threw something at my tv and so he refuses to even come look at it. the 2nd company comes out, picks it up...tells me they have to replace the picture tube and bring it back about 3 weeks later.


i think great...done. until i notice some discoloration in the upper left corner (original issue was in lower left area). it looks like a magnet was put on there or something - you know red spot on green screen, or green spot on a blue screen. so i call them back. they come out, take the tv, i get it 2 weeks later. spot is now a vertical line. the repair guy says - don't worry the degausser will fix it. everytime i turn on the tv its supposed to degauss itself. two weeks later still there - i call them back. wait a month they say...ok. its still there. they come out and degauss it with the handheld degausser (really cool effects!) but it doesn't go away! they said it should in about a week or they will come back.


it doesn't go away...i call Sony just to let them know what's happening. they say call the service people again. so they come back again for the tv...i get it back another 3 weeks later. spot is gone! i think great...until i notice my screen is shifted horizontally about 2 to 3 inches. i call them back and get in an argument with the owner of the place who thinks i'm doing something wrong, and wasting his time having his guys come out and them work on it! so that conversation ends badly.


i call sony...they tell me to call the first service dealer again!! i do...the guy tells me to fax him my info, receipt, warranty proof etc. i never hear from him.


i said forget it i'll just leave it and get used to it. which i do for awhile...until now the left 4 or 5 inches of the screen is no longer sharp. it's sorta fuzzy over there! my warranty is up in a month and a half...and my tv was great for about 5 months, until an innocent looking little "smudge" appeared on the screen.


so watchout! i'm going to call sony and see what they say...i need a new friggin' tv after all this hassle...which i'm not really counting on, but i saw someone's post earlier who said sony offered them a couple of tv's based on the problems they were having (although he had to pay some money or something)


----------



## BTV Mark

Bobdo, it might be time to call your local Better Business Bureau. Tell them you've been having many, many problems with your set. Ask them for help and advice on what to do next.


Mark


----------



## Bobdo

yeah probably a good idea. although i did just fix the geometry issue myself from the awesome post/instruction manual by kentech. you know i did ask sony if they could just walk me through doing that over the phone...they said no, only their service techs could do it. pff.


i will mess around and see if maybe i can sharpen up the left edge of the screen...not sure but worth a shot anyway.


----------



## Ennui

There is a claimed "new" 960 on Ebay now with 3 days left but no shipping. It is in Bridgewater, MA.


----------



## midasxl4

Has anyone done/seen a side-by-side comparison between the 960 and 970?


Phil


----------



## MrGonk

I realize this has probably been covered before, but I have no desire to sift through like a million posts and the search function has not helped me on this.


Basically, I'm trying to see what I can get OTA with the receiver in the 960... And while using "Auto Setup" and "Add Digital Channels" it finds 11 digital channels and tunes them just fine, for some reason the TV refuses to acknowledge the very existence of analog channels, even really strong broadcasts I know I should be receiving loud and clear. Simply put, none show up in the channel list when I run Auto Setup, and there doesn't appear to be any way of adding them manually. I tried to use the Show/Hide list to change that, but I was getting "no signal" for analog stations that I KNOW are plenty powerful in this area. My neighbor with an XBR 970 does not have this problem. Is there something I'm not doing that would allow me to receive the analog OTA channels?


I've used both a UHF (Silver Sensor) and HDTV-certified UHF-VHF antenna trying to tune these channels. Each was hooked up to the "UHF/VHF" Coax "Antenna" input on the back of the set. Nothing is hooked up to the "Cable" Coax input.


The manual has been of no use for this, too... Help!


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MrGonk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ....Basically, I'm trying to see what I can get OTA with the receiver in the 960... And while using "Auto Setup" and "Add Digital Channels" it finds 11 digital channels and tunes them just fine, for some reason the TV refuses to acknowledge the very existence of analog channels, even really strong broadcasts I know I should be receiving loud and clear.....



I believe you should be using the "Auto Program" function in the Channel Menu.


----------



## MrGonk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I believe you should be using the "Auto Program" function in the Channel Menu.




That's what I used. I misidentified it as "Auto Setup" in my original post. Still no analog channels.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MrGonk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's what I used. I misidentified it as "Auto Setup" in my original post. Still no analog channels.



According to page 45 of the owner's manual there is an "initial setup" that takes place on the first power up. I'm wondering if after the initial setup finds no analogs, then any subsequent auto programming skips analogs. Page 45 indicates a reset process that may get you back to an "initial setup" status. It may be worth a try.


----------



## PeterTHX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MrGonk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That's what I used. I misidentified it as "Auto Setup" in my original post. Still no analog channels.



This may sound like a silly question but you are set to antenna and not cable?


----------



## MrGonk

yeah, i'm definitely on "antenna" and not "cable."


unfortunately, i'm reluctant to go through that reset process, as the tv has been ISF calibrated and i don't want to risk losing any service menu tweaks the guy put into the set.


this is becoming quite the quandry...


----------



## TeeJay1952

It is a digital TV. It receives no analog other than drift when the frequencies overlap.


----------



## MrGonk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TeeJay1952* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It is a digital TV. It receives no analog other than drift when the frequencies overlap.



huh? dude, i've tinkered with many 8vsb tuners in my time, and i've never met one that refused to tune an analog channel.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MrGonk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> huh? dude, i've tinkered with many 8vsb tuners in my time, and i've never met one that refused to tune an analog channel.



My 960 memorized both analog and digital signals that were unscrambled through cable.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MrGonk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> yeah, i'm definitely on "antenna" and not "cable."
> 
> 
> unfortunately, i'm reluctant to go through that reset process, as the tv has been ISF calibrated and i don't want to risk losing any service menu tweaks the guy put into the set.
> 
> 
> this is becoming quite the quandry...



Page 96 of the owner's manual states"To restore the factory default settings for video settings, press reset on the remote control when in the Video Menu." Page 98 states"To restore the factory default settings for treble, bass and balance, press reset on the remote control when in the Audio Menu."


This leads one to believe that pressing reset when in the Channel Menu *may* only reset the channels.


I understand your concern about the reset to factory defaults mentioned on page 45.


----------



## MrGonk

raouliii.... now we're getting somewhere. thanks for the tip. i'll try that when i get home from work.


----------



## prophcy0

I think I may need to have my 960 serviced. There are several things I've noticed that are beginning to drive me crazy.


First off, my 960 was an open box model since new ones were more than $500 dollars more expensive when I bought the TV. I now regret not getting a new 970.


However, here are the issues I'm experiencing. Any advice on how to fix them would be great, but I plan on having the set serviced soon anyway as my warranty runs out in March of 08.



Issue 1 - Geometry. I've had pretty bad geometry issues with my 960 since I bought it. These are issues that I doubt can be fixed in the service menu.


Issue 2 - Blurriness. I have my ClearEdgeVM set to high simply because text is insanely blurry if it's turned off. When it's set to High everything looks super sharp, but I know that something must be wrong because things are just too blurry when it's turned off. My sharpness is set to 0 but turning it up and turning ClearEdge off still results in blurriness.


Issue 3 - Black levels. In a lot of HD content when people are wearing black clothes in dark rooms it's hard to make out details in their clothing. I still haven't been able to determine if this is the source material's fault or if it's the settings on my TV.


Issue 4 - White "crush/push" . I've recently turned my "picture" setting way down to try and eliminate this. What happens is when there's kind of shimmering/blurryness around white stuff such as text. Sometimes it's really noticeable and sometimes it's not.


Issue 5 - "shimmering" around edges. When I get somewhat close to the screen I notice that there is a sort of shimmering effect around any sharply defined object such as text or boxes. I really don't know how to explain this one effectively.


Issue 6 - "Ghosting." I only really notice this in HD material, but there seems to be a lot of ghosting when there is fast movement. I especially notice it in HD-DVDs with a lot of action such as Batman Begins or the Italian Job. It can also be pretty noticeable in 360 games. I honestly don't know if this one is a fault of the TV or if it's just how the material is supposed to be. I need to hook my 360 and HD-DVD drive up to someone else's HD set to tell for sure.


Issue 7 - the "cold boot" issue. This is obviously a known problem. Unplugging the TV and plugging it back in always fixes it, but I live in fear that one day my TV will just not turn on at all.



Has anyone else experienced any of the above issues? I realize that I probably didn't do the best job of explaining them. My TV is currently set to "PRO" with the cool temperature setting. All of the various sliders are right around the middle with the exception of sharpness which is at 0.


Also, if a service tech works on my TV and decides that it can't be completely fixed would Sony offer any kind of compensation towards a new TV? I doubt they would but that would be nice.


----------



## WJonathan

One thing I've learned with both my XBR970 and years of computer gaming at different resolutions is that higher resolutions tend to produce a darker picture. I've noticed the same effect of black clothing in dark lighting on my 970.


The blurriness/ghosting/shimmering problems sounds like cheap cables. Are you using good quality component or HDMI?


----------



## Bobdo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *prophcy0* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think I may need to have my 960 serviced. There are several things I've noticed that are beginning to drive me crazy.
> 
> 
> First off, my 960 was an open box model since new ones were more than $500 dollars more expensive when I bought the TV. I now regret not getting a new 970.
> 
> 
> However, here are the issues I'm experiencing. Any advice on how to fix them would be great, but I plan on having the set serviced soon anyway as my warranty runs out in March of 08.
> 
> 
> 
> Issue 1 - Geometry. I've had pretty bad geometry issues with my 960 since I bought it. These are issues that I doubt can be fixed in the service menu.
> 
> 
> Issue 2 - Blurriness. I have my ClearEdgeVM set to high simply because text is insanely blurry if it's turned off. When it's set to High everything looks super sharp, but I know that something must be wrong because things are just too blurry when it's turned off. My sharpness is set to 0 but turning it up and turning ClearEdge off still results in blurriness.
> 
> 
> Issue 3 - Black levels. In a lot of HD content when people are wearing black clothes in dark rooms it's hard to make out details in their clothing. I still haven't been able to determine if this is the source material's fault or if it's the settings on my TV.
> 
> 
> Issue 4 - White "crush/push" . I've recently turned my "picture" setting way down to try and eliminate this. What happens is when there's kind of shimmering/blurryness around white stuff such as text. Sometimes it's really noticeable and sometimes it's not.
> 
> 
> Issue 5 - "shimmering" around edges. When I get somewhat close to the screen I notice that there is a sort of shimmering effect around any sharply defined object such as text or boxes. I really don't know how to explain this one effectively.
> 
> 
> Issue 6 - "Ghosting." I only really notice this in HD material, but there seems to be a lot of ghosting when there is fast movement. I especially notice it in HD-DVDs with a lot of action such as Batman Begins or the Italian Job. It can also be pretty noticeable in 360 games. I honestly don't know if this one is a fault of the TV or if it's just how the material is supposed to be. I need to hook my 360 and HD-DVD drive up to someone else's HD set to tell for sure.
> 
> 
> Issue 7 - the "cold boot" issue. This is obviously a known problem. Unplugging the TV and plugging it back in always fixes it, but I live in fear that one day my TV will just not turn on at all.
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone else experienced any of the above issues? I realize that I probably didn't do the best job of explaining them. My TV is currently set to "PRO" with the cool temperature setting. All of the various sliders are right around the middle with the exception of sharpness which is at 0.
> 
> 
> Also, if a service tech works on my TV and decides that it can't be completely fixed would Sony offer any kind of compensation towards a new TV? I doubt they would but that would be nice.



i'd think all of these issues can be fixed thru service menu changes....except maybe 6 and 7.


search for the sony service codes post/topic here by kentech (i'm not able to post links until i have a few more posts myself - oops, lol)


that's the best thread for sony tv's i've ever seen. and you probably want to get something like dvd essentials for all your patterns, etc.


----------



## prophcy0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WJonathan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> One thing I've learned with both my XBR970 and years of computer gaming at different resolutions is that higher resolutions tend to produce a darker picture. I've noticed the same effect of black clothing in dark lighting on my 970.
> 
> 
> The blurriness/ghosting/shimmering problems sounds like cheap cables. Are you using good quality component or HDMI?



I'm using high quality component cables. If I ever get a PS3 then I'll hook it up via HDMI.


Sometime in the near future I'm going to dedicate a day to reading through Ken-Tech's thread and going through my service menu to try and fix everything.


----------



## WJonathan

If the cables are OK, then I suspect you have a board going bad. I was tempted to say "convergence" at first, but the way you describe the shimmering and ghosting during motion sounds like signal overlap more than convergence.


----------



## pca7ggr

I just had two "pc" cards replaced on my 960 to address an off-center problem. At 480i the picture was shifted slightly to the right while at 720p and 1080i the picture was shifted to the left. Other than that, the TV has been flowless since I got it January '06.


Anyone alse have this issue?


----------



## njt

Whoa, can't belive this thread is still going strong.


Well after a 2 year run of using the Sony stand for my 960, I finally caved and bought a nice solid wood stand for it. Just felt the need to consolidate all AV equipment into one unit after purchasing an HD DVD player.


So... if anyone in the Boulder/Denver CO area wants a mint condition Sony stand (complete with frosted glass shelf and extender bars), lmk.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pca7ggr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just had two "pc" cards replaced on my 960 to address an off-center problem. At 480i the picture was shifted slightly to the right while at 720p and 1080i the picture was shifted to the left. Other than that, the TV has been flowless since I got it January '06.
> 
> 
> Anyone alse have this issue?



Fortunately, not with mine. Using overscan tests for both HD and DVD, each is centered properly and equally distant from one side to another.


My overscan is at the 5% line, which one member told me was the maximim tolerable limit, although I only see the very edge of the top and bottom lines and nothing for those on the sides. Since I don't play video games I assume this is not a problem.


----------



## Ennui

After monitoring this 960 forum thread since its beginning, I finally got myself a 960. Case is banged up but unit plays well. Next steps are to devour the manual and get HD cable service. (Monitoring the free HD locals on cable and OTA now.)


Moved my 32XBR100 upstairs (it is 170 lbs). Someone some time in the past on this forum commented on the deteriorating plastic of the case on theirs. Wow, I had no idea it was so bad. For a 10 year old $3,200 TV, that is disappointing. But I have never seen better NTSC pictures.


Thanks for all the input on this forum.


----------



## zesty

Does anyone have any idea how much I could get for my 960? I bought a display unit in Oct of 2005 and it has been fantastic, but I'd like to upgrade to a bigger display. I bought a service plan on it from Circuit City that is good until Oct of 2008. Anyone have a guess on this unit's value? Thanks in advance for any replies.


----------



## WJonathan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zesty* /forum/post/11385235
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any idea how much I could get for my 960? I bought a display unit in Oct of 2005 and it has been fantastic, but I'd like to upgrade to a bigger display. I bought a service plan on it from Circuit City that is good until Oct of 2008. Anyone have a guess on this unit's value? Thanks in advance for any replies.



Well, something is only worth what a buyer is willing to pay for it, of course. But if it were mine and the set is in truly excellent condition (good picture quality, all inputs work, etc), I wouldnt take less than $400-$500. Mostly dependant upon how badly you need to sell it.


----------



## gr33dy

Keep in mind the set will not be worth a great deal because it was purchased as a "display" unit.


----------



## Ennui

I bought mine on Ebay for $530. He was asking for $699 in buy-it-now. As I said before, the case is beat up and cracked in one place but the set is working great. Serial number is 9008xxx so must be a more recent build. Moving this thing is a challenge.


I had to change the horizontal size to bring the twin view box frames into view and adjusted the tilt of course. Also there was some "tilt" in the 4:3 box "bars" so adjusted that in the service menu. Using digital output into my sound system and have Cox HD cable and antenna inputs. Took two visits and two cable cards to finally work OK. All working good now. Very pleased.


----------



## Ennui

I spoke too soon...after more than two days of error free cable card, I got another error like I saw on the first card: 161-6. It is a Scientific Atlanta card. Does anyone know what this error means?


On the first card, it re-occurred every 20-30 minutes. Requires resetting on the cablecard menu.


----------



## jude82

i am thinking about selling my set since it is just too big for my apartment. if anyone is in the New York City area and is looking for one of these shoot me a pm. great tv but its just so freaking huge!


----------



## ClayPigeon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ennui* /forum/post/11421986
> 
> 
> I spoke too soon...after more than two days of error free cable card, I got another error like I saw on the first card: 161-6. It is a Scientific Atlanta card. Does anyone know what this error means?
> 
> 
> On the first card, it re-occurred every 20-30 minutes. Requires resetting on the cablecard menu.



Welcome to the wonderful world of cable cards. Maybe if cable companies got behind them more they would actually work. Then again they lose money renting them out. HD boxes are a few dollars more, plus they are "one way" and you can't order pay per view/video on demand with them ( until they make two way cards) so they lose evne more money. For these reasons i think this is why cable companies are not 100% behind cable cards, they hate them and as soon as you have trouble with them they try to blame the TV, and get you to swicth to a box.


----------



## ClayPigeon

Scientific atlanta eh? Thats who makes my HD box. I never even heard of the brand until getting that box. Sony used to make them but my cable company stoppedusing them cause they said the boxes costed a fortune and they broke easily and They wouldn't repair them. So you know what they do? They still try to push the Sony boxes on their costomers, The cable guy told me this! cause they want to "get rid of them" when i was having problems with mine i asked him about the new small boxes, he said they were made by 'scientific craplanta" and that they are "SO MUCH" better. I asked if i could have one of those instead and he said they can't give them out, you have to go to the cable company place to pick one up, and that they only swicth the sony ones with sony ( keep in mind he tells me this AFTER how bad the Sony boxes are LOL) Well turns out the only sony box he ahd in the truck didn't work, so he ah dno choice but to give me the SA box. What a POS they are though Ugliest menus i have ever seen, and mush slower than the Sony boxes.


----------



## SpeedDemon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ClayPigeon* /forum/post/11431994
> 
> 
> Scientific atlanta eh? Thats who makes my HD box. I never even heard of the brand until getting that box. Sony used to make them but my cable company stoppedusing them cause they said the boxes costed a fortune and they broke easily and They wouldn't repair them. So you know what they do? They still try to push the Sony boxes on their costomers, The cable guy told me this! cause they want to "get rid of them" when i was having problems with mine i asked him about the new small boxes, he said they were made by 'scientific craplanta" and that they are "SO MUCH" better. I asked if i could have one of those instead and he said they can't give them out, you have to go to the cable company place to pick one up, and that they only swicth the sony ones with sony ( keep in mind he tells me this AFTER how bad the Sony boxes are LOL) Well turns out the only sony box he ahd in the truck didn't work, so he ah dno choice but to give me the SA box. What a POS they are though Ugliest menus i have ever seen, and mush slower than the Sony boxes.



That's too bad that you have such bad HD cable boxes. Here in Seattle we have Motorola boxes that are excellent quality. They have a TV Guide GUI that is fairly nice and easy to use (very responsive).


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ennui* /forum/post/11418335
> 
> 
> I had to change the horizontal size to bring the twin view box frames into view and adjusted the tilt of course.




Hi,


Do you mean simply adjusting the size of the twin-view pictures or an actual adjustment of the horizontal size?


Good luck with the new set.


----------



## Ennui

I adjusted the horizontal size in the SM as the outer sides of the boxes was not visible. Obviously overscan but I used the boxes as an indicator.


No more 161-6 errors in the last two days. Fingers crossed but all OK now.


FYI, Cisco bought Scientific Atlanta a couple of years ago. Scientific Atlanta was started in the 1950's and grew to almost $2 Billion in annual sales before they were bought.


Thanks,


----------



## ClayPigeon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ennui* /forum/post/11439379
> 
> 
> FYI, Cisco bought Scientific Atlanta a couple of years ago. Scientific Atlanta was started in the 1950's and grew to almost $2 Billion in annual sales before they were bought.Thanks,



Yea but i doubt they were making any HD cable boxes back then  Thats like saying Westinghouse has been around since the early 1900's, They made rocket engines and furnaces back then, doesn't mean i'd buy a TV from them. So even if they were a successful company they still make crappy Boxes IMO. If you had a choice of what box/cable card you wanted would you take something made by "scientific Atlanta" over any other name brands?


----------



## Joseph Dubin

*I adjusted the horizontal size in the SM as the outer sides of the boxes was not visible. Obviously overscan but I used the boxes as an indicator.*


HI Ennui,


Can you tell me how you were able to get into the SM and make the adjustment? I'd like to adjust my picture so to get below the 5% overscan line.


Thanks,

Joe


----------



## flyingvee

Sorry to jump in and ask what has already been asked; is there a trick to getting QAM signals to tune on this set? Just got one, rtm, and still no joy. Have run Digital Channel auto find, and the set now picks up all of the Digital Music channels my cable co offers, but still isn't tuning any of the actual digital hd broadcasts.


Auto tune has picked up all of my nstc cable no problem; also found the 182 digital channels I don't subscribe to; but I can't view any of the local, clear QAM channels.


I know that my LG stbs have choices for different digital cable bands; is there a setting for this I need to setup in the Service Menu?


(btw, now that I have the set, I promise to read all 5491 posts.







- but I'd sure like it if you could help me get the HD working now. The wife is currently pretty pi$$ed that I have a 197 pound behemoth in our living room that doesn't pickup HD.







)


thanks


----------



## Ennui

Joe:


It really helps if you have the service manual. I got mine on-line, downloaded it and printed it. $23.99 at servicemanuals.net.


Anyway the entry to the service menu is:


set off

display, 5, voume+ and set on (all within a few seconds)


There are many settings so you have to find the page first using 2 up and 5 down.

The selection of the item is 1 up and 4 down.

The value change is 3 up and 6 down.


WRITE DOWN THE VALUE BEFORE CHANGING IT.


To save the changed value, press muting and enter.


Turn set off to escape the service menu. If you do not save any new values, nothing should be changed when you turn the set back on.


HSIZ is in 2170D-2 and is item 2. Value default is 50 except for "wide zoom" when it goes to 56. When you get to the value, WRITE IT DOWN, and then change it until you get the scan you want.


If you have never been in the service menu, you should go in and look around a little before you change any values.


Hope to be helpful.


----------



## Ennui

flyingvee:


The FCC has dictated that any HDTV signal transmitted free over the air is to be made available on the local cable system unencrypted.


It is up to your cable system to comply.


----------



## flyingvee

Thanks, ennui - and it does. That is, I can get qam signals just fine with my two LG external boxes. Likewise, friend's Hitachi rptv does beautifully. I just haven't been able to make the Sony respond. Yet, I hope. As I said, I know I'm on the right track, since I'm getting the digital cable audio channels - something my LG3510a doesn't do. But while it shows the qam broadcast stations, I haven't been able to make it tune them in - when I highlight SHOWN, all I get is Tuning -> No Signal.


----------



## Ennui

Do you have the cable plugged directly into the TV?


Have you tried entering the channel number manually; 704.1 or whatever?


One of the five channels I got before the cablecard would not come in either, but the others all did.


I suppose it is difficult to put up an antenna? How far away are you from the transmitters?


Sorry, I do not have any other answers.


----------



## flyingvee

I'll try the antenna tonite - was just hoping I could go qam, free up my antenna for a non-qam equipped panel in the next room. - I'm far enough from towers that I'd hate to have to split the antenna signal..Guess I'll hook up antenna for wife, then mess with the qam when she isn't looking...


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ennui* /forum/post/11459160
> 
> 
> Joe:
> 
> 
> It really helps if you have the service manual. I got mine on-line, downloaded it and printed it. $23.99 at servicemanuals.net.
> 
> 
> Anyway the entry to the service menu is:
> 
> 
> set off
> 
> display, 5, voume+ and set on (all within a few seconds)
> 
> 
> There are many settings so you have to find the page first using 2 up and 5 down.
> 
> The selection of the item is 1 up and 4 down.
> 
> The value change is 3 up and 6 down.
> 
> 
> WRITE DOWN THE VALUE BEFORE CHANGING IT.
> 
> 
> To save the changed value, press muting and enter.
> 
> 
> Turn set off to escape the service menu. If you do not save any new values, nothing should be changed when you turn the set back on.
> 
> 
> HSIZ is in 2170D-2 and is item 2. Value default is 50 except for "wide zoom" when it goes to 56. When you get to the value, WRITE IT DOWN, and then change it until you get the scan you want.
> 
> 
> If you have never been in the service menu, you should go in and look around a little before you change any values.
> 
> 
> Hope to be helpful.



Thanks so much. Will try it out and will let you know.


Joe


----------



## Ennui

flyingvee: try antennaweb.org to see what stations you should be able to get. All you have to enter is your zip code. Zero in on your location on the map, then continue.


No signal could also result from a weak signal on your cable system. The diagnostics menu is available if you can tune a digital signal. Should be over 30 db S/N minimum.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ennui* /forum/post/11459160
> 
> 
> Joe:
> 
> 
> It really helps if you have the service manual. I got mine on-line, downloaded it and printed it. $23.99 at servicemanuals.net.
> 
> 
> Anyway the entry to the service menu is:
> 
> 
> set off
> 
> display, 5, voume+ and set on (all within a few seconds)
> 
> 
> There are many settings so you have to find the page first using 2 up and 5 down.
> 
> The selection of the item is 1 up and 4 down.
> 
> The value change is 3 up and 6 down.
> 
> 
> WRITE DOWN THE VALUE BEFORE CHANGING IT.
> 
> 
> To save the changed value, press muting and enter.
> 
> 
> Turn set off to escape the service menu. If you do not save any new values, nothing should be changed when you turn the set back on.
> 
> 
> HSIZ is in 2170D-2 and is item 2. Value default is 50 except for "wide zoom" when it goes to 56. When you get to the value, WRITE IT DOWN, and then change it until you get the scan you want.
> 
> 
> If you have never been in the service menu, you should go in and look around a little before you change any values.
> 
> 
> Hope to be helpful.



Just to let you all know Ennui's suggestions worked! Once I got the hang of navigating through the service menu it was quite easy to change the settings.


I had no idea there was an overscan problem until Cablevision of New York added the 15 HD Voom Network stations. I saw a small portion of some of the corner station logos cut-off (whereas they fully appeared on other sets connected to my HD DVR). Using the test-pattern saved from the old INHD, I was able to reduce the horizonatal overscan stretch and correctly center the picture. Now I see all four lines and they are set equally distant from the sides (I kept the overscan set to where the 5% lines on the side were just off the edge of the screen)and I'm viewing a full picture.


In fact, I got two unexpected bonuses on problems I didn't realize existed:


1) Incorrect overscan caused the horizontal to be stretched a little too much making people appear slightly wider than they should have (now everything is naturally proportioned), and


2) With the overscan setting more compact the picture is a bit more sharper.


These changes make it seem like Sony manufactured a KD34SBR961 with slight improvements over the previous 960. Of course, it's really the 960 set properly.


----------



## Bitwize




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/11119492
> 
> 
> The Lord works in strange ways.



Yes, He does indeed...but in my case it's the opposite. I just sold my Panasonic 50ph9uk plasma and pulled the 960 outta the closet. Wow, what a huge difference! I had the plasma for 6 months and can't believe how much I was missing








I'm so glad I kept the 960. May the Lord continue to give life to my 960


----------



## Bitwize




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kool-aid23* /forum/post/11115146
> 
> 
> I've calmed down with the number of times I dust the screen since my spot arrived. I do nothing but wipe with a soft cloth now. I'm too scared to use water now. I was trying to make myself believe this happened telling me it's time to upgrade to a plasma.



I "upgraded" to the Panasonic 50ph9uk and had it for 6 months. Just sold it and went back to the 960. Fortunately for me I have owned around 8 HDTVs in the past couple years, from SXRD to XBR LCD to Plasma and everything else inbetween. The 960 still produces the best picture overall.


If you do decide to go with a plasma at some point, the latest Pioneers have the best picture I've seen in a flat panel, BUT it's still not CRT


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ClayPigeon* /forum/post/11439700
> 
> 
> Yea but i doubt they were making any HD cable boxes back then  Thats like saying Westinghouse has been around since the early 1900's, They made rocket engines and furnaces back then, doesn't mean i'd buy a TV from them. So even if they were a successful company they still make crappy Boxes IMO. If you had a choice of what box/cable card you wanted would you take something made by "scientific Atlanta" over any other name brands?



"Back in the day" (early 1990's) SA made fantastic commercial-quality gear. Their 9708 "B-Mac" IRD (integrated receiver-decoder) was virtually trouble-free (and was also about $3,000 if I recall.) I realize this only means they have experience making these devices. It doesn't mean their new digital devices will be state-of-the-art. But I'd submit they certainly SHOULD stand a much better chance of making the transition than some other company that never made satellite receivers in the first place. Brand/name equity is extremely valuable, and is one of the measures I use before making a purchase.


Mark


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ennui* /forum/post/11459266
> 
> 
> flyingvee:
> 
> 
> The FCC has dictated that any HDTV signal transmitted free over the air is to be made available on the local cable system unencrypted.
> 
> 
> It is up to your cable system to comply.



I'm not sure this is the correct interpretation. I believe this is dependent on market size. And I think it only applies to the "primary" digital channel. (e.g., an ABC station in Chicago on 7.1 would be need to be carried, but that station's 7.2 and 7.3 wouldn't be mandated) Anyone know for sure?


Mark


----------



## Ennui

I believe the government site covers this:


§ 76.630 Compatibility with consumer electronics equipment.

(a) Cable system operators shall not scramble or otherwise encrypt signals carried on the basic service tier. Requests for waivers of this prohibition must demonstrate either a substantial problem with theft of basic tier service or a strong need to scramble basic signals for other reasons. As part of this showing, cable operators are required to notify subscribers by mail of waiver requests. The notice to subscribers must be mailed no later than thirty calendar days from the date the request waiver was filed with the Commission, and cable operators must inform the Commission in writing, as soon as possible, of that notification date.


§ 76.901 Definitions.

(a) Basic service. The basic service tier shall, at a minimum, include all signals of domestic television broadcast stations provided to any subscriber (except a signal secondarily transmitted by satellite carrier beyond the local service area of such station, regardless of how such signal is ultimately received by the cable system) any public, educational, and governmental programming required by the franchise to be carried on the basic tier, and any additional video programming signals a service added to the basic tier by the cable operator.


These came from http://ecfr.gpoaccess.gov/ 


There may be a limit on small systems that I am unaware of.


----------



## Ennui

This came from 76.620 that describes the obligations of cable companies:


(g) With respect to carriage of digital signals, operators are not required to carry ancillary or supplementary transmissions or non-program related video material.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bitwize* /forum/post/11485508
> 
> 
> I "upgraded" to the Panasonic 50ph9uk and had it for 6 months. Just sold it and went back to the 960. Fortunately for me I have owned around 8 HDTVs in the past couple years, from SXRD to XBR LCD to Plasma and everything else inbetween. The 960 still produces the best picture overall.
> 
> 
> If you do decide to go with a plasma at some point, the latest Pioneers have the best picture I've seen in a flat panel, BUT it's still not CRT



Couldn't agree more. Plasmas are still referred to being closest to a CRT but not it's equal. And of all the CRTs, the 960 is by far the best. More than two years and I still can't get over it's vivid crystal clear HD picture, natural color and awesome upconversion of standard definition DVDs.


It's a shame the majority of consumers were impressed so much with picture size and flatness that they failed to notice the lack of dimension and depth in Plasma and LCD along with a more limited combination of deep contrast and black level to bring out the best of the HD signal.


Big screens are more practical for large rooms, but for the average living room, 34 inches is more than adequate.

Not to knock Plasma, LCD or DLP but consumers who only need this type of picture size have one less format choice to consider than we had. If anything, I would miss the 3-D feel that only a CRT can offer.


----------



## birdies

I have had a KD-34xbr960 for 2 years now and love it.I want to upgrade to a HD DVD player.My current set up is a cable card with the optical audio out going to my Dolby Digital receiver to hear HD broadcasts in 5.1.


If I connect an HD DVD payer to the HDMI input will the digital audio be output through the optical out from the TV or do I need to connect audio seperate from the HD DVD to the receiver?

Thanks


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *birdies* /forum/post/11498127
> 
> 
> I have had a KD-34xbr960 for 2 years now and love it.I want to upgrade to a HD DVD player.My current set up is a cable card with the optical audio out going to my Dolby Digital receiver to hear HD broadcasts in 5.1.
> 
> 
> If I connect an HD DVD payer to the HDMI input will the digital audio be output through the optical out from the TV or do I need to connect audio seperate from the HD DVD to the receiver?
> 
> Thanks



I believe the optical audio output of the HDTV is audio from the tuner only. You will need to have an independent digital audio connection from your HDDVD player and receiver.


----------



## birdies

That does make sense

Thanks raouliii


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/11498312
> 
> 
> I believe the optical audio output of the HDTV is audio from the tuner only. You will need to have an independent digital audio connection from your HDDVD player and receiver.



That might not be the case, since the 5.1 audio is sent to the 960 via the HDMI output from the cable box. If HDMI is used instead for the HD-DVD player the sound would still be output from set. The 960's 5.1 output serves a pass-through only between the source and receiver.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BTV Mark* /forum/post/11486910
> 
> 
> "Back in the day" (early 1990's) SA made fantastic commercial-quality gear. Their 9708 "B-Mac" IRD (integrated receiver-decoder) was virtually trouble-free (and was also about $3,000 if I recall.) I realize this only means they have experience making these devices. It doesn't mean their new digital devices will be state-of-the-art. But I'd submit they certainly SHOULD stand a much better chance of making the transition than some other company that never made satellite receivers in the first place. Brand/name equity is extremely valuable, and is one of the measures I use before making a purchase.
> 
> 
> Mark



I found differences in picture quality between SA boxes. When switching from SA's HD (4200) to the HD-DVR (8300) I thought I saw more vivid a picture. When incorrectly thinking the DVR caused copy protection problems dubbing onto DVD (eventually found it was the DVD recorder) I switched back to the 4200 and found picture quality to be less vibrant. My thoughts were confirmed when getting another SA HD-DVR and once more finding a more vibrant picture.


My brother has a standard definition SA DVR and noticed my DVDs dubbed from regular digital stations (in the same speed mode) appeared sharper and more detailed than those made from his (we both have Panasonic recorders).


----------



## pdroth

I just went to the Sony store in NYC to see the new XBR Bravias. The new sets are beautiful, but without a doubt my 960 has a better picture.


When I didn't appear to be too satisfied with the PQ on the set, the salesman asked me what my present set was. He said, "Oh... well that would explain it. Those are still the best TV's we've ever sold. If Sony still made them, I could still sell them."


Now if I could only figure out how to hang it on a wall I'd be all set.


----------



## britanico

Hi Sony CRT´s fans

I found a site where you can download the SERVICE MANUAL FOR FREE of 30/34/36xs955 and 34xbr960(all with DA-4 chassis):go to www.schematicsforfree.com and 1)click on "Click here to see the files" in blue big letters 2) click on "Sony" 3)click on "Video" 4)click on "KD34XBR960" or "KD34XS955".It´s a Zip file.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *britanico* /forum/post/11556982
> 
> 
> Hi Sony CRT´s fans
> 
> I found a site where you can download the SERVICE MANUAL FOR FREE of 30/34/36xs955 and 34xbr960(all with DA-4 chassis):go to www.schematicsforfree.com and 1)click on "Click here to see the files" in blue big letters 2) click on "Sony" 3)click on "Video" 4)click on "KD34XBR960" or "KD34XS955".It´s a Zip file.



Thanks for the link, however, it's always stating that downloading time has expired. Anyway to get around this?


----------



## njt

Finally ditched the Sony stand and went with something that fits in my style better. Don't know if any other 960 fans have been in the same boat but it was tough fining something I liked, and had the correct depth and weight bearing factors. In case anyone is interested in the same stand it is avaiable from Oak Express/Furniture Row ( http://www.furniturerow.com/ )


----------



## britanico




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/11587847
> 
> 
> Thanks for the link, however, it's always stating that downloading time has expired. Anyway to get around this?



Hi Joseph

Sometimes you have to try another day;in the "sony service codes" thread duwdu has also made it.Good luck.


----------



## mjrtoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/11507224
> 
> 
> That might not be the case, since the 5.1 audio is sent to the 960 via the HDMI output from the cable box. If HDMI is used instead for the HD-DVD player the sound would still be output from set. The 960's 5.1 output serves a pass-through only between the source and receiver.



I have recently connected my Sony Blu-Ray player via HDMI to my 960, and tried the optical output to my Anthem AVM30 preamp, unfortunatly, the 960 only sends 2.0 channel digital signals from the HDMI input. Broadcast 5.1, no problem, but I can only seem to get 2.0 digital from the HDMI input, meaning PLIIx at best from even a blu-ray disc.


If anyone knows how to 'fix' this, I would appreciate a post, but I'm pretty sure that's just the way it's gonna be.


----------



## mjrtoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *britanico* /forum/post/11556982
> 
> 
> Hi Sony CRT´s fans
> 
> I found a site where you can download the SERVICE MANUAL FOR FREE of 30/34/36xs955 and 34xbr960(all with DA-4 chassis):go to www.schematicsforfree.com and 1)click on "Click here to see the files" in blue big letters 2) click on "Sony" 3)click on "Video" 4)click on "KD34XBR960" or "KD34XS955".It´s a Zip file.



Sweet, worked for me..thanks for the link!


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjrtoo* /forum/post/11594402
> 
> 
> I have recently connected my Sony Blu-Ray player via HDMI to my 960, and tried the optical output to my Anthem AVM30 preamp, unfortunatly, the 960 only sends 2.0 channel digital signals from the HDMI input. Broadcast 5.1, no problem, but I can only seem to get 2.0 digital from the HDMI input, meaning PLIIx at best from even a blu-ray disc.
> 
> 
> If anyone knows how to 'fix' this, I would appreciate a post, but I'm pretty sure that's just the way it's gonna be.



Hmm cant you just run optical cable from the bluray player itself directly to your preamp? Thats how I have my PS3 setup, HDMI cable from PS3 to TV and Optical cable from PS3 to Receiver.


----------



## ejthomp

I'm looking at a used xbr960 with matching stand. Purchased 07/05. Seems to be in great shape.


How much would you be willing to pay for it?


----------



## WJonathan

If I needed it, and the set was in great condition, I'd go $500 or so.


----------



## Joe Redifer

OK, I have the 34XBR960 and for the most part it is a good TV. Unfortunately 1080i seems a bit off center to the right, though. So does 480i, but it's not as bad. I know how to get into and use the service menu, but I don't know how to adjust the horizontal position of only the 1080i mode without affecting 720p and 480p. If I center 1080i, then 720p and 480p are both off center to the left. A good example is my Xbox360 which I have set to 720p since that is centered. If I set my Xbox360 to 1080i, it's shifted to the right.


Is there any way to fix this or even perhaps zap the service menu back to default in case something somewhere got adjusted which shouldn't have? I originally adjusted it to decrease overscan a bit in 480p.


----------



## mjrtoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/11599432
> 
> 
> Hmm cant you just run optical cable from the bluray player itself directly to your preamp? Thats how I have my PS3 setup, HDMI cable from PS3 to TV and Optical cable from PS3 to Receiver.



Yes, and do, but, I was looking for a way to pass the multichannel audio through my TV using the optical output of the television to my preamp to save a couple of inputs. I have a DVD-A player and want to use the 6-Channel discreet inputs into my preamp for that, rather than for the uncompressed audio from the blu-ray player, and would live with 5.1 audio from the blu-ray until I update my preamp for full HDMI switching, allowing uncompressed audio from the blu-ray through the HDMI connector.


But alas, the TV only passes 2.0 digital signals from the HDMI input.


----------



## Ennui




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe Redifer* /forum/post/11607226
> 
> 
> OK, I have the 34XBR960 and for the most part it is a good TV. Unfortunately 1080i seems a bit off center to the right, though. So does 480i, but it's not as bad. I know how to get into and use the service menu, but I don't know how to adjust the horizontal position of only the 1080i mode without affecting 720p and 480p. If I center 1080i, then 720p and 480p are both off center to the left. A good example is my Xbox360 which I have set to 720p since that is centered. If I set my Xbox360 to 1080i, it's shifted to the right.
> 
> 
> Is there any way to fix this or even perhaps zap the service menu back to default in case something somewhere got adjusted which shouldn't have? I originally adjusted it to decrease overscan a bit in 480p.



The service manual shows two settings for the HPOS under 2170D-2: one for 1080 Full and 1080Vcomp and another value for "Others". Manual shows these at 29 and 31 respectively, default.


----------



## Joe Redifer

My TV has similar settings, but adjusting towards the "default" makes the image go more towards the right, not the center. What are the HCEN defaults (or H Center)? Is there anyway for me to download that manual and just set everything back to default?


Here is the difference I am observing:











Quite a big difference, and quite annoying.


----------



## Ennui

Please see my post 5492. That is where I got my manual. There is a link later to a freemanuals site also.


HCNT shows 31 default.


From your pics, if the 480 and 720 are different, this would mean the HCNT is wrong (not by much).


The HPOS should affect only 1080i with the first number (29 default) and all the others with the second (31 default).


Are you sure your HSIZ is correct? Your pictures showing the edges that would be affected by this number also. HSIZ has only two settings: [email protected] and [email protected] I had to adjust mine as I noted previously.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ennui* /forum/post/11621806
> 
> 
> Please see my post 5492. That is where I got my manual. There is a link later to a freemanuals site also.
> 
> 
> HCNT shows 31 default.
> 
> 
> From your pics, if the 480 and 720 are different, this would mean the HCNT is wrong (not by much).
> 
> 
> The HPOS should affect only 1080i with the first number (29 default) and all the others with the second (31 default).
> 
> 
> Are you sure your HSIZ is correct? Your pictures showing the edges that would be affected by this number also. HSIZ has only two settings: [email protected] and [email protected] I had to adjust mine as I noted previously.



Hi Ennui,


After you advised me how to adjust the horizontal size it was changed to 45 with the horizontal center from 38 to 37. Changes were made with the 960 set to VIDEO 7 with a 1080i picture being input from the HD DVR.


Am I correct the HSIZ adjustment decreases the horizontal width proportionatly throughout the entire screen? Since making the adjustment I've become aware that objects sometimes appear a very slightly bit thinner when moved toward the extreme left edge of the screen. I realize it might be more a case of nerves, looking for a problem after working the service menu and just the source itself. No problem with geomitry - lines are still straight throughout.


Thanks again,

Joe


----------



## Ennui

When I adjusted HSIZ, I used the "Twin View" boxes. I could not see the outside line of the boxes on either side. Adjusting HSIZ brought both sides into view. As far as I could tell it is like a zoom, so, yes, it should "squeeze" everything.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/11624991
> 
> 
> ...... Since making the adjustment I've become aware that objects sometimes appear a very slightly bit thinner when moved toward the extreme left edge of the screen. I realize it might be more a case of nerves, looking for a problem after working the service menu and just the source itself. No problem with geomitry - lines are still straight throughout.
> 
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Joe



If you want to tackle that issue, you can try SLIN.

Quote from a Sony service manual "Adjust the horizontal linearity. SLIN, Adjust as necessary so that the boxes at the left and right sides of the screen are the same width as the boxes in the middle of the screen." The "boxes" refer to a crosshatch pattern, which btw, is the preferred pattern for adjusting geometry. SLIN is adjusted for WideZoom and all Others seperately.


----------



## Joe Redifer

Ennui, my HSIZ is currently 33. Adjusting it to 50 gives it an extreme amount of overscan, almost to the point in where the vertical black bars in 4:3 shows broadcast on a 1080i channel barely show up. I adjusted my HCNT from 24 to 31, but the 720p and 480p still defer from each other.


Could the LANDING setting have anything to do with it? Specifically the HSZO and SLNO settings? Those seem to adjust horizontal size. My HSZO is currently at 12.


What should the VSIZ and VPOS be?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No problem with geomitry - lines are still straight throughout.



You are lucky. My 34XBR960 has always had warped corners since day one. I feel that nothing can be done to fix them.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe Redifer* /forum/post/11627200
> 
> 
> You are lucky. My 34XBR960 has always had warped corners since day one. I feel that nothing can be done to fix them.



Magnets, applied by a technician, can address curvature issues that cannot be corrected with service menu tweaks.


In fact, I feel that there is no "proper" set of values that applies to all XBR960's. These are analog devices, not digital, and all kinds of analog factors make each and every set different right out of the factory.


For example my own service menu settings reflect the magnet work done by a technician right after I bought my set because I was unhappy with the curvature and got Sony to arrange a free service call. Hence my settings would not apply directly to your set, which has not had the identical magnet job.


Each set must simply be adjusted as best as you can through the service menu using a test pattern (cross-hatch is the most useful). If you get a magnet job, you'll then want to re-visit your service menu adjustments. Someone else's geometry values should only be used for comparison.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ennui* /forum/post/11625645
> 
> 
> When I adjusted HSIZ, I used the "Twin View" boxes. I could not see the outside line of the boxes on either side. Adjusting HSIZ brought both sides into view. As far as I could tell it is like a zoom, so, yes, it should "squeeze" everything.



You're absolutely right.


Tonight I tested my 960 by shrinking and stretching the horizontal size while viewing the overscan pattern - the width of everything changed proportionatly. It must have been a case of my nerves using the service menu getting the better of me.


Should have mentioned the slight disproportion of some objects on the extreme left appears only on certain DVDs and not HD broadcasts. Nor is every object from top to bottom disproportionate when moving to the side. Guess it could be due to the way it was filmed, the formatting process in DVD, the signal being input via component cables or something natural with CRT.


Again, I was concerned I screwed up another setting in the service menu. I've since realized each adjustment has to be saved individually and if I accidently changed a setting for something other than horizontal size or center it would not have been stored. Just a matter of nerves causing me to look for problems after going into the service menu.


FYI - When in twin view, I found reducing the horizontal size so all four sides highlighted in green appear caused the pattern's large center circle to be squeezed too much - I do get the full picture in twin view but not the full square outside that is highlighting the picture.


Thanks to everyone who helped me out with this.


----------



## Joe Redifer




> Quote:
> Magnets, applied by a technician, can address curvature issues that cannot be corrected with service menu tweaks.



I really don't want to spend hundreds of dollars to fix this issue. I'd rather just buy a newer and better TV. There is no way Sony would send out a technician for free now. I didn't even know such an option was available when I bought it. I had read that my problems were similar to what most owners of this thing were having.


----------



## Ennui




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe Redifer* /forum/post/11627200
> 
> 
> Ennui, my HSIZ is currently 33. Adjusting it to 50 gives it an extreme amount of overscan, almost to the point in where the vertical black bars in 4:3 shows broadcast on a 1080i channel barely show up. I adjusted my HCNT from 24 to 31, but the 720p and 480p still defer from each other.
> 
> 
> Could the LANDING setting have anything to do with it? Specifically the HSZO and SLNO settings? Those seem to adjust horizontal size. My HSZO is currently at 12.
> 
> 
> What should the VSIZ and VPOS be?
> 
> 
> 
> You are lucky. My 34XBR960 has always had warped corners since day one. I feel that nothing can be done to fix them.



VPOS default is 26.

VSIZ default is 39.


HSZO, SLIN, MPNO, and PINO in the LANDING section are complicated. The values for these depend on the LDVM value set (0,1,2 or 3).


The numbers are shown for "Wide Zoom" and "Others". [Who uses Wide Zoom?]


HSZO is 0 except for LDVM=2 or 3, and then it is 2 for "Others".

SLIN is 0 except for LDVM=2 or 3, and then it is 1 for "Others".

MPNO is 0 except for LDVM =1 it is 2, for LDVM=2 it is 5, and if LDVM=3 it is 9, all for "Others".

PINO is 0 except for LDVM =1 it is 2, for LDVM=2 it is 6, and if LDVM=3 it is 9, all for "Others".


I do not know what these values do.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ennui* /forum/post/11630462
> 
> 
> ....The numbers are shown for "Wide Zoom" and "Others". [Who uses Wide Zoom?].....



I use WideZoom for all 480i inputs except for anamorphic DVD 480i.







I find the non-linear stretching to be a decent compromise between zoom (loosing too much top and bottom) and normal (black pillars







)


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/11631279
> 
> 
> I use WideZoom for all 480i inputs except for anamorphic DVD 480i.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I find the non-linear stretching to be a decent compromise between zoom (loosing too much top and bottom) and normal (black pillars
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )



Wide zoom all the way for me to


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SwiftSweeper* /forum/post/11636835
> 
> 
> Wide zoom all the way for me to



Us, too.


Really enjoy watching those old pictures filmed before cinemascope, etc. in a wide screen format with little distortion in size for most of the action. Only problem is some cut off of the bottom of those news tickers and to see them fully means increases the stretching to the point of too much distortion - so we increase the stretch only when the news stations are on (otherwise Stan Laurel appears as heavy as Oliver Hardy).


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/11638477
> 
> 
> Only problem is some cut off of the bottom of those news tickers and to see them fully means increases the stretching to the point of too much distortion - so we increase the stretch only when the news stations are on (otherwise Stan Laurel appears as heavy as Oliver Hardy).



I get most of my news from the internet and Comedy Central nowadays







, so a bit of cut off on top and bottom does not bother me much. Distortion cased by Wide Zoom mode is annoying especially when I watch stuff on Cartoon Network, but it is still significantly better imo than seeing people faces cut of in half with Zoom or significantly reducing the screen size with normal mode.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SwiftSweeper* /forum/post/11640324
> 
> 
> I get most of my news from the internet and Comedy Central nowadays
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , so a bit of cut off on top and bottom does not bother me much. Distortion cased by Wide Zoom mode is annoying especially when I watch stuff on Cartoon Network, but it is still significantly better imo than seeing people faces cut of in half with Zoom or significantly reducing the screen size with normal mode.




I was able to reduce the amount of strech by going into the Service Menu and reducing the horizontal size when in wide zoom (just like the full mode, as posted previously). Brought the shrinkage to the point where the black bars alongside the picture could be seen (with slight bending) and then expanded the setting back a bit, checking to be sure that cable channels and DVD showed no trace of them.


Remarkable that when compared to the normal picture the stretching is hardly noticable.


----------



## Joe Redifer

Widezoom makes me ill. I definitely notice the odd distortion, especially when something moves or (god forbid) the camera pans. I don't mind black bars on the sides of my 4:3 material. Makes the true 16:9 stuff that much better. The TV auto-16:9s with any valid 16:9 source with the exception of some videogame systems which do not send out the proper 16:9 flag in the video signal even though they should. I have my default set to 4:3 so that this works as I want it to.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/11626974
> 
> 
> If you want to tackle that issue, you can try SLIN.
> 
> Quote from a Sony service manual "Adjust the horizontal linearity. SLIN, Adjust as necessary so that the boxes at the left and right sides of the screen are the same width as the boxes in the middle of the screen." The "boxes" refer to a crosshatch pattern, which btw, is the preferred pattern for adjusting geometry. SLIN is adjusted for WideZoom and all Others seperately.




Thanks Raoul,


I saw that the boxes appearing on the left and right sides of the "convergence" test from the old INHD test patterns were slightly slimmer than those in the middle. Went into the service menu and was able to adjust the SLIN. It eliminated the problem; just had to slightly re-adjust the HSIZ since the edges in a little. Seems that one affects the other.


- Joe


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi all,


I was advised that progressive scan signals could not be upconverted so I always kept my DVD recorder's output set to 480i to take advantage of the 960's line-doubling capability. I was watching some old DVDs and noticed a slight grain compared to the clarity of those produced the last few years so out of curiousity I again tried to see if there would be any difference with a 480p output. To my surprise, a great deal of that grain disappeared providing a much smoother picture. It had nothing to do with picture adjustments as no changes (other than a slight reduction of color) were required using the THX Optimizer.


Is the 960's line-doubler still being utilized even though I'm now sending a progressive scan picture from my DVD recorder?


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Is the 960's line-doubler still being utilized even though I'm now sending a progressive scan picture from my DVD recorder?



I am also sending 480p to my TV from DVDs(xbox360). I believe that Interlaced option is disabled when 480p is feed into the TV. Regarding the Cinemotion option, I think that it is also disabled, but I am not completely sure.


----------



## Joe Redifer

The 960 pretty much displays 480p as 480p, which is a GOOD thing. Don't be pulled in by talk of line doubling. Progressive is better than interlace any day. In my honest opinion, interlaced formats should be illegal. They do not provide anything positive to the world. You are actually viewing a progressive picture on the 960 when it is in 480p.


Anyway, what I'm pretty sure the 960 does is display the image at 540p, which is half of 1080i (just as 99.999% of analog SDTVs displayed 240p pictures). The image is then overscanned (not scaled or line-doubled) so that a little less than 480 lines are on the screen at any given time. It is cheap and economical to do it this way versus having a true multiscan monitor. True 480p on an EDTV that can do nothing else will still look a bit better, but this is a good compromise.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe Redifer* /forum/post/11719184
> 
> 
> The 960 pretty much displays 480p as 480p, which is a GOOD thing. Don't be pulled in by talk of line doubling. Progressive is better than interlace any day. In my honest opinion, interlaced formats should be illegal. They do not provide anything positive to the world. You are actually viewing a progressive picture on the 960 when it is in 480p.
> 
> 
> Anyway, what I'm pretty sure the 960 does is display the image at 540p, which is half of 1080i (just as 99.999% of analog SDTVs displayed 240p pictures). The image is then overscanned (not scaled or line-doubled) so that a little less than 480 lines are on the screen at any given time. It is cheap and economical to do it this way versus having a true multiscan monitor. True 480p on an EDTV that can do nothing else will still look a bit better, but this is a good compromise.



Hi Joe,


Shows how one can still learn things about the 960, even after more than two years.







The advanced video features were no longer available after setting the DVD recorder's output to progressive, which should have told me something.


Is the process of displaying 480p images at 540p, then overscanning, etc, a common feature in HD sets or is it more unique to the 960?







Line doubling might not be bad when it comes to standard definition broadcasts. Upconverted to 480p through the cable box, these pictures look worse than when left to 480i and alllowing the Sony's line doubler to kick in.


----------



## RalphArch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/11720841
> 
> 
> Is the process of displaying 480p images at 540p, then overscanning, etc, a common feature in HD sets or is it more unique to the 960?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Line doubling might not be bad when it comes to standard definition broadcasts. Upconverted to 480p through the cable box, these pictures look worse than when left to 480i and alllowing the Sony's line doubler to kick in.



As a 36 kd 955xs user here I don't think its unique. My set essentially behaves similarly with the added complication of squeezing the raster vertically whenever a 1080i or 720p input is sensed.


I actually may agree with you that 480i, coupled with the set's DRC controls, is better in the general sense, than 480p, or 1080i for the great majority of SD viewing - at least on my set when being fed from a Dish HD box.


It is even very adequate for viewing an HD signal in my mind. In my particular case the HD pillar box is somewhat larger in 480i compared with 1080i shrink, and I believe most of the horizontal resolution is maintained in the 480i signal so all I am losing is vertical resolution. Although substantive overall its not a bad compromise to run my particular set with HD box set to 480i all the time. (I still have OTA antenna input for the ATSC signals so can easily get a real HD signal OTA without swithing the satellite box).


----------



## WJonathan

In my experience with my 970, the source quality has a greater effect than any manipulations made by the set's video processor. As smart as these Wegas are, they pale in comaprison to what a good upconverting DVD player can do.


The 960/970 (and nearly all HD CRTs I believe) output all signals at 1080i (or 540p depending on your perspective). If I understand correctly, you're saying your cable box upconverts to 480p? If SD programming looks worse in progressive, then I would blame a poor upconversion by the box more than anything the TV is or isn't doing.


----------



## Joe Redifer

Upconverting a DVD from 480i to 480p might work since it is at 24 frames per second and can easily be done without interlacing artifacts since the video fields don't change very often. But real 480p at 60fps looks much better than 480i upconverted to 480p. A good example is videogames (yes, we're all too ancient to enjoy videogames, but bear with me). The Nintendo Wii is a great example. It's maximum output is 480p. Most games on the system update to an entirely new image 60 times every second. If you run the Wii in 480i and have your 960 do the upconversion, you will effectively lose half of the vertical resolution since it tries to line double two fields into one. The two fields would be from different points in time, and thus you'd only be seeing a maximum of 153,600 independent pixels for every 1/60th of a second versus 307,200 pixels every 1/60th of a second if you had hooked it up in 480p to begin with. My point is that line-doubling/scaling/upconversion cannot add detail that wasn't there to begin with.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe Redifer* /forum/post/11727159
> 
> 
> Upconverting a DVD from 480i to 480p might work since it is at 24 frames per second and can easily be done without interlacing artifacts since the video fields don't change very often. But real 480p at 60fps looks much better than 480i upconverted to 480p. A good example is videogames (yes, we're all too ancient to enjoy videogames, but bear with me). The Nintendo Wii is a great example. It's maximum output is 480p. Most games on the system update to an entirely new image 60 times every second. If you run the Wii in 480i and have your 960 do the upconversion, you will effectively lose half of the vertical resolution since it tries to line double two fields into one. The two fields would be from different points in time, and thus you'd only be seeing a maximum of 153,600 independent pixels for every 1/60th of a second versus 307,200 pixels every 1/60th of a second if you had hooked it up in 480p to begin with. My point is that line-doubling/scaling/upconversion cannot add detail that wasn't there to begin with.



Since half the vertical resolution is lost in the 960 upconversion process, it makes sense to keep the DVD output to 480p. My guess is the 960's upconversion works well with standard definition broadcasts and even VHS tapes (even more ancient than we are LOL). I do notice more detail and from these sources on the 960's 34 inch 16x9 screen compared to smaller 4x3 sets


----------



## MSZ 007

So tonight was the first time that my TV did not turn on when I pressed the power button. I followed the steps on Sony's eSupport website by unplugging it from the wall and waiting 30 seconds and then plugging it back in. Should I be worried that the TV's Power Supply could be faulty? Also note that my TV was plugged in directly to wall when this happened.


----------



## Joe Redifer

That's odd. I'd be more worried if it started powering itself off without your approval.


Mine will no longer let me change the channel or input until a picture is on the screen. For example if I turn the TV on, I can no longer type "7.1" and expect it to go to 7.1. I need to wait until whatever it's already on shows up before it allows input. Not a big issue, just odd.


----------



## mjrtoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MSZ 007* /forum/post/11740248
> 
> 
> So tonight was the first time that my TV did not turn on when I pressed the power button. I followed the steps on Sony's eSupport website by unplugging it from the wall and waiting 30 seconds and then plugging it back in. Should I be worried that the TV's Power Supply could be faulty? Also note that my TV was plugged in directly to wall when this happened.



I've had this happen only a few times over the 2 years or so I've had the set, I haven't noticed any other issues. Although, I had a strange issue where the cable channels would look really terrible, but only occasionally. If you waited for sometimes up to 1/2 hour then 'ping' everything popped in a it should be. I called the cable company several time thinking it was poor signal from them, turns out it was a component in the television. I had to have a service tech come to my house and replace some board deep inside the set, all under warranty with the XBR of course.


----------



## mjrtoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/11731973
> 
> 
> Since half the vertical resolution is lost in the 960 upconversion process, it makes sense to keep the DVD output to 480p. My guess is the 960's upconversion works well with standard definition broadcasts and even VHS tapes (even more ancient than we are LOL). I do notice more detail and from these sources on the 960's 34 inch 16x9 screen compared to smaller 4x3 sets



I would say that it's not the upconversion itself that makes your SD pictures look better, but probably the Cinemotion and VRC circuitry that does. When it comes down to resolution and what looks better, your eye can only see so much detail given a certain distance. You have to sit like 10' max away to even begin to notice the advantage of 720p, and somewhere around 6' to really notice the difference between 480p and 720p. It's more about how our eyes work than resolution....


If our set did 1080p, you would have to sit around 3' away to notice any improvement over 720p, just goes to show you that 1080p is kind of a joke in displays smaller than 50', even then the distance to notice is about 8'.


----------



## RalphArch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjrtoo* /forum/post/11741681
> 
> 
> If our set did 1080p, you would have to sit around 3' away to notice any improvement over 720p, just goes to show you that 1080p is kind of a joke in displays smaller than 50', even then the distance to notice is about 8'.



That's bigger than the size of the $8M jumbotron at the CAPS arena - which I imagine anyone sitting in the Arena would notice the 1080p.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjrtoo* /forum/post/11741681
> 
> 
> I would say that it's not the upconversion itself that makes your SD pictures look better, but probably the Cinemotion and VRC circuitry that does. When it comes down to resolution and what looks better, your eye can only see so much detail given a certain distance. You have to sit like 10' max away to even begin to notice the advantage of 720p, and somewhere around 6' to really notice the difference between 480p and 720p. It's more about how our eyes work than resolution....
> 
> 
> If our set did 1080p, you would have to sit around 3' away to notice any improvement over 720p, just goes to show you that 1080p is kind of a joke in displays smaller than 50', even then the distance to notice is about 8'.




Well, in any event, it's great to know how much the 960 does improve that SD picture.


----------



## mikeinthekeys

Slightly off-topic, but I have the 34XBR910 and am looking for a way to adjust the convergence and overscan. I found a way to the service menu, but then could find no way to do anything! I normally hang at the HDTV side of AVS, but would appreciate help or links to help you may know about. Thanks in advance!


----------



## mjrtoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RalphArch* /forum/post/11741912
> 
> 
> That's bigger than the size of the $8M jumbotron at the CAPS arena - which I imagine anyone sitting in the Arena would notice the 1080p.



Touche.... 50" heh.


----------



## WJonathan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikeinthekeys* /forum/post/11745479
> 
> 
> Slightly off-topic, but I have the 34XBR910 and am looking for a way to adjust the convergence and overscan. I found a way to the service menu, but then could find no way to do anything! I normally hang at the HDTV side of AVS, but would appreciate help or links to help you may know about. Thanks in advance!



Did you read the Sony Service Codes topic?


----------



## Patan

Hi, I'm looking to buy a KD-34XBR960. Anyone know of one for sale, preferably new if any are left in the U.S. at all (or maybe even Japan), but would consider a used one in excellent condition. Thanks!


----------



## Ennui

I found mine on Ebay a month ago. $530. It was within 60 miles so I picked it up.


Shipping will be a problem.


----------



## MichaelDaly

I recently purchased the new TiVoHD and connected it to my 960 via HDMI. However, I'm not getting any digital audio output from the TV to my receiver when I select this input. I do get digital audio to my receiver when using the internal tuner. I spoke with Sony and they said that only the internal tuner will output digital audio. Can anyone confirm this? If this is the case, what was the point of putting the HDMI interface on this TV?


Thanks.


----------



## mjrtoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MichaelDaly* /forum/post/11753559
> 
> 
> I recently purchased the new TiVoHD and connected it to my 960 via HDMI. However, I'm not getting any digital audio output from the TV to my receiver when I select this input. I do get digital audio to my receiver when using the internal tuner. I spoke with Sony and they said that only the internal tuner will output digital audio. Can anyone confirm this? If this is the case, what was the point of putting the HDMI interface on this TV?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



If you're on an analog channel, normally there is no digital audio output from the Tivo, I think.


I have my Blu-Ray player hooked through the HDMI input on the TV, and then the TV optical output into my Preamp, and I do get digital audio, but only 2.0 even if the DVD is 5.1. As you mentioned, I do receive 5.1 through the tuner. I agree it's a bit strange.


Guess you'll have to run the Tivo into your receiver directly, and possibly both analog and digital seperately.


----------



## vafan13

Oi, wish I could actually find one of these things for sale near me. =/


----------



## wbrett




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MSZ 007* /forum/post/11740248
> 
> 
> So tonight was the first time that my TV did not turn on when I pressed the power button. I followed the steps on Sony's eSupport website by unplugging it from the wall and waiting 30 seconds and then plugging it back in. Should I be worried that the TV's Power Supply could be faulty? Also note that my TV was plugged in directly to wall when this happened.



Major coincidence. I came here today because my 960 wouldn't fire up Sat. morning. First time in the ~1 year that I've owned it. The red light blinked 5-10 seconds longer than normal and then nothing. After unplugging/re-plugging it's worked perfectly through a couple of on/off cycles.


I can recall people in this thread talking about having to unplug the 960 to fix something but don't really recall the issue they were fixing.


Like you, I think I'm looking for reassurance from those who have experience with this.


----------



## RJRSW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Patan* /forum/post/11748516
> 
> 
> Hi, I'm looking to buy a KD-34XBR960. Anyone know of one for sale, preferably new if any are left in the U.S. at all (or maybe even Japan), but would consider a used one in excellent condition. Thanks!



I do not know where you are located but here is one on Craig's list site:

http://tucson.craigslist.org/ele/436208720.html


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wbrett* /forum/post/11779804
> 
> 
> Major coincidence. I came here today because my 960 wouldn't fire up Sat. morning. First time in the ~1 year that I've owned it. The red light blinked 5-10 seconds longer than normal and then nothing. After unplugging/re-plugging it's worked perfectly through a couple of on/off cycles.
> 
> 
> I can recall people in this thread talking about having to unplug the 960 to fix something but don't really recall the issue they were fixing.
> 
> 
> Like you, I think I'm looking for reassurance from those who have experience with this.




Relax, it's happened to me as well. Would need to unplug the set for a few minutes. Sony service told me this was normal, since the 960 has to be compared to a computer which sometimes can freeze and needs to be unplugged and rebooted.


Your video savings, etc. will not be lost.


----------



## MichaelDaly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjrtoo* /forum/post/11753707
> 
> 
> If you're on an analog channel, normally there is no digital audio output from the Tivo, I think.
> 
> 
> I have my Blu-Ray player hooked through the HDMI input on the TV, and then the TV optical output into my Preamp, and I do get digital audio, but only 2.0 even if the DVD is 5.1. As you mentioned, I do receive 5.1 through the tuner. I agree it's a bit strange.
> 
> 
> Guess you'll have to run the Tivo into your receiver directly, and possibly both analog and digital seperately.



Thanks for the info! I also discovered that the TiVoHD will not send digital info to the TV via HDMI because the TV does not support HDCP... So I connected the TiVoHD to my receiver directly via optical and connected to the TV using component video. Now I need to buy an optical to coax converter for the TV's digital connection since both my optical inputs are full... I tried the optical splitter and the signal loss was unbelievable.


----------



## PeterTHX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MichaelDaly* /forum/post/11782394
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info! I also discovered that the TiVoHD will not send digital info to the TV via HDMI because the TV does not support HDCP... So I connected the TiVoHD to my receiver directly via optical and connected to the TV using component video. Now I need to buy an optical to coax converter for the TV's digital connection since both my optical inputs are full... I tried the optical splitter and the signal loss was unbelievable.



Wha?


The Sony fully supports HDCP.


----------



## sschnath




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/11781816
> 
> 
> Relax, it's happened to me as well. Would need to unplug the set for a few minutes. Sony service told me this was normal, since the 960 has to be compared to a computer which sometimes can freeze and needs to be unplugged and rebooted.
> 
> 
> Your video savings, etc. will not be lost.



I've had it happen a few times in the last year. In the first two years we owned it I don't think it did it evev once. It's terribly annoying for us, because it sits in the middle of an entertainment center so it's difficult to get at the plug without sliding out the entire pedestal it sits on (which also includes a stereo receiver, a DVD player and a VHS player). My wood floors don't appreciate it too much!


Sometimes I find it easier to go to the circuit break panel and shut it off there. Just takes a few seconds. Was hoping there was a firmware update for this problem buy Sony says no.


----------



## Mathesar

Yea I have one of the last XBR960's made (a little over a year old) and so far Ive had to unplug it 3 seperate times.. but luckily the plug is fairly easy to reach.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi all,


To follow up on all my earlier posts regarding the advantage of feeding interlaced signals into the 960 (cable standard definition and DVD), I am embarrased to say I was completely wrong.


When first switching between interlaced and progressive I noticed a loss in detail which did not justify the tradeoff. I think this was due to my 960's factory-settings. The internal service menu had the vertical size stretched so wide it caused an overscan problem. With that (and the linear size) properly adjusted, the detail in picture quality improved immenesly (making a great picture even better).


So, the upconversion was negated due to a stretched out picture which made progressive scan signals appear blurrier than interlaced signals and could not be offset with increased sharpness and edge-enhancement which only caused graininess.


I can see why many had their 960's recallibrated. Hopefully, this was all that my particular unit required.


----------



## sschnath

My 960 has recently developed a small shadow on the lower half of the left side of the screen. Picture a semi-oval, turn it vertical, and place it so that the long edge is against the left edge of the screen. It's approx 5-6 inches long and maybe 3-4 inches wide at it's peak.


It's mostly transparent. The screen still has chroma in that area, it's just ever so slightly darker. Most people can't see it but being a videotape editor my eye drifts to it a lot.


I don't have, nor have I ever had, anything magnetic anywhere near the sides of the screen. I've also noticed that the red gun has ever so slightly started to drift out of convergence in the upper left corner. The position or size of the shadow doesn't change regardless of whether I'm inputting 480i, 480p, or 1080i.


The 960 will be 3 yrs old in Jan. I've never had it calibrated. I had intended to go the ISF route right after I bought it but I was so happy with it out of the box (with a few minor adjustments) that I decided not to spend the money. I later bought the Avia disc and thought I would tweak it myself but have never taken the time to do it.


I'd like to try and make the shadow go away myself first. If that doesn't work it might be time to go the professional calibration route. But I'm concerned that the shadow is something that can't be fixed by calibration only. I have an extended warranty with in-home service so I can have a regular tech come out first. But even if he can fix the dead spot I'll still have to have the calibration done afterward and I'm looking at two service calls minimum and the possibility that the shadow isn't covered under the extended warranty.


Has anyone experienced a similar shadow problem and was able to make it go away either through self-service or with ISF calibration?


----------



## cardioman

I have the 960 and the warranty expires soon in 08. The set is one of the rare ones in that color, convergence, and sizing adjustments are very good right from the factory. After 3 months the set developed the shutdown problem with the blinking led dignostic light. The local Sony rep came out replaced boards, but the problem has remained. The problem has been diagnosed as a bad CRT due to internal arcing which after about 25 minutes shuts the set down. I have installed a DC mini fan which blows at the crt neck and believe it or not the fan prevents the arcing. Now my dilemma: Reading this thread and others proves that the 960 is very difficult to adjust properly. Especially in convergence, and purity areas ( extra magnets required etc)

not to mention all the sizing issues everyone has. The local rep does not have a real good reputation for customer care so I dont think I want him to do the CRT replacement. But I found a old time Mom & pop service center 2 hours away here in OHIO which after talking with the owner could do a very good job. What would you do? continue to run the fan? Travel 2 hours, have the CRT replaced. I guess the fall back option is if everything is screwed up i can get ISSF cal. by Chad. but I would like your opinion or thoughts. Thanks!


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cardioman* /forum/post/11799105
> 
> 
> I have the 960 and the warranty expires soon in 08. The set is one of the rare ones in that color, convergence, and sizing adjustments are very good right from the factory. After 3 months the set developed the shutdown problem with the blinking led dignostic light. The local Sony rep came out replaced boards, but the problem has remained. The problem has been diagnosed as a bad CRT due to internal arcing which after about 25 minutes shuts the set down. I have installed a DC mini fan which blows at the crt neck and believe it or not the fan prevents the arcing. Now my dilemma: Reading this thread and others proves that the 960 is very difficult to adjust properly. Especially in convergence, and purity areas ( extra magnets required etc)
> 
> not to mention all the sizing issues everyone has. The local rep does not have a real good reputation for customer care so I dont think I want him to do the CRT replacement. But I found a old time Mom & pop service center 2 hours away here in OHIO which after talking with the owner could do a very good job. What would you do? continue to run the fan? Travel 2 hours, have the CRT replaced. I guess the fall back option is if everything is screwed up i can get ISSF cal. by Chad. but I would like your opinion or thoughts. Thanks!



Just pay for Chad - he did an outstanding job on my set, especially with the magnets, which really improved geometry and convergence. I know it's a lot of money, but he's worth it. I think he lives in your state too.


----------



## RWetmore

Before you pay for Chad though, you should get your defective CRT replaced under warranty. If it needs replacement after Chad's calibration, the whole calibration is wiped out. Also, see if Chad will tweak the focusing adjustments in the service menu...he normally doesn't, but when you get a new CRT you really need to do this to get the best picture.


----------



## DrOrb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrOrb* /forum/post/10403424
> 
> 
> I've had the 960 (not 960N) for 18 months. The picture is really spectacular.
> 
> 
> But I've noticed that the AR coating is disappearing in streaks on the left side of the screen. When the program content is dark, the difference in reflectivity is noticable.
> 
> 
> Has anyone had the same experience?
> 
> 
> DrOrb



Sony replaced my picture tube without an inspection. Seems the flaw is well-known.


----------



## dlp755




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DrOrb* /forum/post/10403424
> 
> 
> I've had the 960 (not 960N) for 18 months. The picture is really spectacular.
> 
> 
> But I've noticed that the AR coating is disappearing in streaks on the left side of the screen. When the program content is dark, the difference in reflectivity is noticable.
> 
> 
> Has anyone had the same experience?
> 
> 
> DrOrb




A slight change of subject, but what are the differences between the 960 and the 960N ?


----------



## pdroth

Well, the time has come for me to say goodbye to my dear friend, the 960. A remodeling project in my living room has forced me to go flat.


Good news - it's going to a good home. This will be my parents first HDTV, and I'm happy to give it to them since they marvel at the PQ every time they visit. It will be such a surprise when I drop it off.


What I'd like to do is find the original Sony stand that was made for this TV. This they will need, and I realize it won't be easy. If anyone can first give me the model # of the stand, and possibly even point me towards someone who may have one I would be forever grateful.


Lastly, I enjoyed reading all of these posts since I was first pursuing this purchase up until now. I've learned a lot (namely than ISF calibration is definitely worth it), and I plan on dropping in every now and then just to see what I'm missing out on.


For anyone interested, I'm deciding between the 40XBR4 and the Samsung 4081. If anyone cares to comment on my choices I'd be very interested in reading them.


Thanks for everything.


----------



## mjrtoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pdroth* /forum/post/11857404
> 
> 
> Well, the time has come for me to say goodbye to my dear friend, the 960. A remodeling project in my living room has forced me to go flat.
> 
> 
> Good news - it's going to a good home. This will be my parents first HDTV, and I'm happy to give it to them since they marvel at the PQ every time they visit. It will be such a surprise when I drop it off.
> 
> 
> What I'd like to do is find the original Sony stand that was made for this TV. This they will need, and I realize it won't be easy. If anyone can first give me the model # of the stand, and possibly even point me towards someone who may have one I would be forever grateful.
> 
> 
> Lastly, I enjoyed reading all of these posts since I was first pursuing this purchase up until now. I've learned a lot (namely than ISF calibration is definitely worth it), and I plan on dropping in every now and then just to see what I'm missing out on.
> 
> 
> For anyone interested, I'm deciding between the 40XBR4 and the Samsung 4081. If anyone cares to comment on my choices I'd be very interested in reading them.
> 
> 
> Thanks for everything.



I personally might look at the Pioneer Kuro plasma stuff....


----------



## evoluzione




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pdroth* /forum/post/11857404
> 
> 
> What I'd like to do is find the original Sony stand that was made for this TV. This they will need, and I realize it won't be easy. If anyone can first give me the model # of the stand, and possibly even point me towards someone who may have one I would be forever grateful.
> 
> .



the stand is SU-34XBR3 and fits the 910 also, i purchased my 34XBR910 about 9 months ago off eBay and then found the matching stand (matches the 960 perfectly and there's slight grey color differences with the 910 but barely noticeable), again, on eBay. I found it in LA, about 4-5hrs away from me (Vegas) and I won it for 99c. yes, 99 cents, new, in the box. well worth the drive, even if i did have to pay a $20 pick up fee!


keep your eyes open for one on eBay, there'll be one turn up sooner or later, or, if you can't wait, you can probably find one at a store, but they'll rape you for it.


good luck!


----------



## patsan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pdroth* /forum/post/11857404
> 
> 
> Well, the time has come for me to say goodbye to my dear friend, the 960. A remodeling project in my living room has forced me to go flat.
> 
> 
> Good news - it's going to a good home. This will be my parents first HDTV, and I'm happy to give it to them since they marvel at the PQ every time they visit. It will be such a surprise when I drop it off.
> 
> 
> What I'd like to do is find the original Sony stand that was made for this TV. This they will need, and I realize it won't be easy. If anyone can first give me the model # of the stand, and possibly even point me towards someone who may have one I would be forever grateful.
> 
> 
> Lastly, I enjoyed reading all of these posts since I was first pursuing this purchase up until now. I've learned a lot (namely than ISF calibration is definitely worth it), and I plan on dropping in every now and then just to see what I'm missing out on.
> 
> 
> For anyone interested, I'm deciding between the 40XBR4 and the Samsung 4081. If anyone cares to comment on my choices I'd be very interested in reading them.
> 
> 
> Thanks for everything.



I also just ordered a new flat screen, so will be getting rid of this Sony as soon as it comes. I honestly can say I was never totally thrilled with it.


----------



## dlcrow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PeterTHX* /forum/post/11785204
> 
> 
> Wha?
> 
> 
> The Sony fully supports HDCP.



I have been unable to get a Tivo S3, Tivo HD, or SA 3250HD to work over HDMI connected to my KD-34XBR960. The error messages indicate an HDCP issue. I have tried two different HDMI cables and one DVI -> HDMI cable for use with the 3250.


The same devices work just fine with my Sony KDL-32XBR2 LCD using the same cables.


----------



## wbrett

Still unclear on this....


With the PS3 how should I set the RGB & Superwhite settings?


----------



## KoRn Kid

Does this TV do 1080p? or just 1080i?


----------



## PeterTHX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dlcrow* /forum/post/11925311
> 
> 
> I have been unable to get a Tivo S3, Tivo HD, or SA 3250HD to work over HDMI connected to my KD-34XBR960. The error messages indicate an HDCP issue. I have tried two different HDMI cables and one DVI -> HDMI cable for use with the 3250.
> 
> 
> The same devices work just fine with my Sony KDL-32XBR2 LCD using the same cables.



Well, it has to be some type of other HDMI issue. You can rule out HDCP as one of them though. I've had a PC (thru DVI->HDMI), PS3, HDMI DVD, Samsung BD, HD cable, etc all work perfectly thru HDMI, either directly or switched from my Onkyo HDMI receiver. These all worked on a 2004 model XBR960 (pre-firmware update).


I do use pretty expensive, well shielded cables...I've seen issues with those from time to time.


----------



## PeterTHX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wbrett* /forum/post/11933398
> 
> 
> Still unclear on this....
> 
> 
> With the PS3 how should I set the RGB & Superwhite settings?



Superwhite ON.


Video Output Format: Auto or Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr


----------



## mjrtoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KoRn Kid* /forum/post/12039447
> 
> 
> Does this TV do 1080p? or just 1080i?



It's 1080i, 1080p would be really pretty worthless with a television this size, unless you sit like 3 feet from it...


----------



## PeterTHX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjrtoo* /forum/post/12041730
> 
> 
> It's 1080i, 1080p would be really pretty worthless with a television this size, unless you sit like 3 feet from it...



I wouldn't say that.


It gets rid of the flicker inherent in these type of displays.


Try to read very fine text on it, especially when trying to use it with a Home Theater Media Center PC. 720p is much better for this, but I prefer the higher resolution and larger screen real estate of 1080...


----------



## mike 01hawk

Do I have any chance at all of finding this in the retail market?


Would love to get one as my 'be all end all' gaming tv (NES, SNES, 3DO, GC, PS2, etc etc )


----------



## S. Hiller

Are any of those gaming consoles high def?


----------



## mike 01hawk

I'd also like to throw a 360 on it at some point.


Sigh.. I guess I'll just have to live with the fact of having an 'older' SD CRT plopped next to a HD CRT


----------



## sdfreediver

Hello,


I have a Sony KD34XBR960 that has really bad red noise on the screen when using the HDMI port. I plugged the same HDMI cable and DVD player into a different TV (42" LCD) and there was no problem.


The TV was connected to a Sony DVP-NS70H upconverting DVD player. When I first connected everything and experienced the red noise, I took the DVD player and the HDMI cable back to the store. Then I came home with the new ones and the same thing happened.


Any tips for this? If the thing didn't weigh 200 lbs I would have already carried it upstairs and used it as a bedroom TV.


BTW the TV was purchased from a Sony outlet store and is still covered under a 5 year extended service plan.


Thank you


----------



## liquidneba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *1000 Umbrellas* /forum/post/9913425
> 
> 
> I have found the component outs from my HD A1 to be more pleasing to these eyes. It retains the sharpness of HDMI but smoother at the same time, more film like if you will. Colors have more impact and black more depth. I use Bettercables.com Silver Serpents and I can't recommend them enough. They are somewhat expensive but not ridiculously so, what you get in return more than makes up for it.



I've bought a Toshiba HD-A3 player and hooked it up to the HDMI input on my 960. I've noticed that in this configuration, using the GetGray DVD, the set will not display deep black. I thought it was the player, until I hooked it up to my brother's Samsung LN-T4671F LCD and was able to see the differences. This is after setting enhanced/deep black on the player. When I hooked it via component cables, I was able to see the deep black difference again.


From a little research it seems to me the default for the HDMI video stream is YCbCr. YCbCr is based on DVI-video for video content and uses a video, Y, range of 16-235 and a color, Cb and Cr, range of 16-240. I would like to get down to 0-255, which I can via component.


You can read more here: http://www.hdtvmagazine.com/forum/vi...1d2ddbd7#18754 


So has anyone had any luck improving the black level on the HDMI input?


----------



## danfoley

I noticed some people on here looking for the 34xbr960. Well i've got one and it's time to sell it. Going to have to upgrade to a larger flat panel. Thinking of going with the Sony ld40w3000 . Think it will look just as good (or better) then the 960?


Well if anyone is interested in taking the 960 off my hands (cheap but not free!), let me know. I'm in Pittsburgh, PA.


----------



## GhaSper_-




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *danfoley* /forum/post/12138852
> 
> 
> I noticed some people on here looking for the 34xbr960. Well i've got one and it's time to sell it. Going to have to upgrade to a larger flat panel. Thinking of going with the Sony ld40w3000 . Think it will look just as good (or better) then the 960?
> 
> 
> Well if anyone is interested in taking the 960 off my hands (cheap but not free!), let me know. I'm in Pittsburgh, PA.



Pick up only? How much? Good condition? Pic of it?


I'm probably gonna buy a Sony 34 in 970 tomorrow at BB used but PQ looks very close to how it would new and not banged up badly. For either $400 with 4 year warranty or $350 if I can bargain them again since there is no longer anymore and looks like it's been on display for a while I bet with no remote included. So respond quickly, may not buy it but others would like to know also.


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *danfoley* /forum/post/12138852
> 
> 
> Thinking of going with the Sony ld40w3000 . Think it will look just as good (or better) then the 960?



Very doubtful especially with black level performance considered but I guess it depends how picky you are with picture quality.. personally the only TV Ive seen so far that competes with or exceeds the 960 is Samsungs latest 52" LED backlit 1080p LCD, I watched some 1080p trailers on it and was amazed at the clarity / color richness and especially the fact it actually had deep black levels (the tv was in a dark room to), Samsung claims 500,000:1 contrast ratio with this model, to bad they want $5,200 for it.


----------



## danfoley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GhaSper_-* /forum/post/12138870
> 
> 
> Pick up only? How much? Good condition? Pic of it?
> 
> 
> I'm probably gonna buy a Sony 34 in 970 tomorrow at BB used but PQ looks very close to how it would new and not banged up badly. For either $400 with 4 year warranty or $350 if I can bargain them again since there is no longer anymore and looks like it's been on display for a while I bet with no remote included. So respond quickly, may not buy it but others would like to know also.



Well pickup only, unless you can arrange some shipping company to come to my house and ship it. I can't lift the thing myself







$400 firm, does come with the remote, and yes here are some pictures:


----------



## GhaSper_-




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *danfoley* /forum/post/12144287
> 
> 
> Well pickup only, unless you can arrange some shipping company to come to my house and ship it. I can't lift the thing myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> $400 firm, does come with the remote, and yes here are some pictures:



Thx for all the info. But ill probably stick with getting the one at BB since I can apply for a card and pay a little amount per month for a while.


----------



## rtype

del


----------



## GhaSper_-




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rtype* /forum/post/12144608
> 
> 
> I'm moving soon and will likely be hiring movers. Does anyone have any advice for moving these things other than "don't move them?"
> 
> 
> It has been sitting on a coffee table in my apartment since it was purchased new. I'd like to put it on something a little higher and more appropriate. Can anyone recommend a tv stand stout enough to hold it confidently that I could get a good deal on? (PM me if you need to send me a url or anything.)
> 
> 
> I would consider the Sony stand if I could find one on clearance but there is no way I'd pay list price for it.



Craigslist if it works in your area or type in local yard sales or physically go look. Just simply find a stand you like and if it doesn't mention how much weight it can hold just ask someone at the store or look it up online.


----------



## WJonathan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rtype* /forum/post/12144608
> 
> 
> I'm moving soon and will likely be hiring movers. Does anyone have any advice for moving these things other than "don't move them?"
> 
> 
> It has been sitting on a coffee table in my apartment since it was purchased new. I'd like to put it on something a little higher and more appropriate. Can anyone recommend a tv stand stout enough to hold it confidently that I could get a good deal on? (PM me if you need to send me a url or anything.)
> 
> 
> I would consider the Sony stand if I could find one on clearance but there is no way I'd pay list price for it.



Most people selling the Sony stands are selling a TV with it. Here's the identical Q & A asked on the 970 board:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...644837&page=84


----------



## PimpUigi

Hey, I was just wondering what the difference between KD-34XBR960N and KD-34XBR960 were?


I've been looking for a 960, but then the 960N is throwing me off.


----------



## bassface

The 960N is the same TV without the anti-glare coating on the screen.


----------



## PimpUigi

OK.


Some idiot wrote that the normal XBR960 didn't have SFP, and that the 960N did.


I sure hope I can find a 960...


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bassface* /forum/post/12221263
> 
> 
> The 960N is the same TV without the anti-glare coating on the screen.




Really? I thought it was the other way around.


----------



## jude82

i'm also trying to sell mine. in NYC. what would be a fair price for this set in good condition less than 2 yrs old do you guys think?


----------



## PimpUigi

I don't know, but I'm already interested.


I've been seeing them in Pittsburg (and in this thread) for around $400

I live in Philadelphia, and have to rent a truck, and rent some helpers to get it down here.


So $200 more that I could pay you automatically has to go to them : (


Let me know what you're thinking.


----------



## LoneWolf15

Hi all,


Someone in my area is offering a used KD-34XBR960N for sale. After looking at the on-paper specs, I'm interested. I have very basic (analog) cable, and don't plan on upgrading that at this point, but I also have a ReplayTV (lifetime subscription), a DVD/DivX player, and a VCR we almost never use, so the inputs look great. Might choose to look into an XBox360 or Nintendo Wii at some point down the road.


My key questions to everyone who has owned this unit (for at least a year):


1) How is the set geometry? I was interested in the Samsung SlimFit models until I saw the number of complaints of poor geometry and bowing. I've heard great things about the picture quality of this set


2) What's the reliability? This is the other reason why I've discarded looking at the Samsung; I'm just seeing too many complaints. I've seen the Sony service bulletin about arcing; is this still an issue, and if so, what does it generally cost (out of warranty) to fix? Have most of you had a trouble-free product?


3) Are there any unusual problems when hooking up components? I've known of some TVs that seemed to have problems with video game consoles or other gear.


4) Is there anything I should know about this TV's strengths/weaknesses that I won't know by reading the manual/specs? Other than it being insanely heavy, that is.










Thanks for any advice you guys can offer. This seems like a great TV on paper, but as an IT guy, I've seen tons of great things on paper that didn't pan out. I'm just on a tight budget, and for $300-400, this looks like a decent buy if the original owner took good care of it.


----------



## DJF(NJ)

1.) My sets geometry was a bit off(960 model built 6/04, Mexico). Took Chad B. about 2-3 hours to fix.

2.) Reliability has been excellent for me. I have had zero problems with this set. Although, I do not watch regular TV on it, only HD-DVD, PS3 and Xbox 360. And this is only a few hours every or every other weekend. I keep it covered with a bed sheet when not in use.

3.) No problems with video game connections.

4.) Strengths: Excellent when fed hi-def signals as well as regular DVD. Inky blacks, 3-D look, rich colors. Weakness: Needs an ISF calibration plus geometry to truly shine! HDMI input looks weaker than component inputs. Some ghosting effects in dark scenes, but I've noticed other Sony CRTs doing this in the past few years. Standard def TV and older video game systems look better on analog TVs.


----------



## WJonathan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LoneWolf15* /forum/post/12232998
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> Someone in my area is offering a used KD-34XBR960N for sale. After looking at the on-paper specs, I'm interested. I have very basic (analog) cable, and don't plan on upgrading that at this point, but I also have a ReplayTV (lifetime subscription), a DVD/DivX player, and a VCR we almost never use, so the inputs look great. Might choose to look into an XBox360 or Nintendo Wii at some point down the road.
> 
> 
> My key questions to everyone who has owned this unit (for at least a year):
> 
> 
> 1) How is the set geometry? I was interested in the Samsung SlimFit models until I saw the number of complaints of poor geometry and bowing. I've heard great things about the picture quality of this set
> 
> 
> 2) What's the reliability? This is the other reason why I've discarded looking at the Samsung; I'm just seeing too many complaints. I've seen the Sony service bulletin about arcing; is this still an issue, and if so, what does it generally cost (out of warranty) to fix? Have most of you had a trouble-free product?
> 
> 
> 3) Are there any unusual problems when hooking up components? I've known of some TVs that seemed to have problems with video game consoles or other gear.
> 
> 
> 4) Is there anything I should know about this TV's strengths/weaknesses that I won't know by reading the manual/specs? Other than it being insanely heavy, that is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for any advice you guys can offer. This seems like a great TV on paper, but as an IT guy, I've seen tons of great things on paper that didn't pan out. I'm just on a tight budget, and for $300-400, this looks like a decent buy if the original owner took good care of it.



For $300-$400 it's a steal, if the picture is good. There were occasional HDMI failures with the 960. It' s great for multi-purpose viewing.


----------



## PimpUigi

Just to clarify, I'm also looking to pay in the $400 ball park.


I would be looking in the $600 ball park, but I have to pay people to help me move it.


I suppose if it was it south Jersey, or Deleware, I wouldn't have to pay my friends...but NYC or Pittsburg, they want $$$.


----------



## MichaelDaly

I have a 960 and am located in the Philly suburbs. Let me know if you'd be interested in speaking about this...


----------



## PimpUigi

I am interested.


I am very interested.


----------



## PimpUigi

Hey guys, Service Menu question...


On my old Sony TV there's an option called CTRP that disables the graininess of the picture on 240p and 480i stuff (like video games)


I looked through the service manual of the XBR960, and I was wondering if the option called TRAP did the same thing???


Or if anyone even knows what I'm talking about...


The description of CTRP in my TV's service manual says "Y TRAP ON/OFF" so I'm hopeful that the TRAP option on the XBR960 is the same thing.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PimpUigi* /forum/post/12251028
> 
> 
> Hey guys, Service Menu question...
> 
> 
> On my old Sony TV there's an option called CTRP that disables the graininess of the picture on 240p and 480i stuff (like video games)
> 
> 
> I looked through the service manual of the XBR960, and I was wondering if the option called TRAP did the same thing???
> 
> 
> Or if anyone even knows what I'm talking about...
> 
> 
> The description of CTRP in my TV's service manual says "Y TRAP ON/OFF" so I'm hopeful that the TRAP option on the XBR960 is the same thing.



The various Sony documents I viewed indicate that CTRP and TRAP are settings that turn on/off the Chroma Trap function. A 1 turns it on and the default of 0 has it off. The TRAP entry in the 2103-1 section should control the function in the Main Color Decoder module.


A definition found on the net (emphasis added):

Chroma Trap - In a NTSC or PAL video signal, the luma (black and white) and the chroma (color) information are combined together. If you want to decode the video signal, the luma and chroma must be separated. The chroma trap is one method for separating the chroma from the luma, leaving the luma relatively intact. How does it work? The NTSC or PAL signal is fed to a trap filter. For all practical purposes, a trap filter allows certain frequencies to pass through, but not others. The trap filter is designed with a response to remove the chroma so that the output of the filter only contains the luma. Since this trap stops chroma, it's called a chroma trap. The sad part about all of this is that not only does the filter remove chroma, it removes luma as well if it exists within the frequencies where the trap exists. The filter only knows ranges and, depending on the image, the luma information may overlap the chroma information. The filter can't tell the difference between the luma and chroma, so it traps both when they are in the same range. What's the big deal? Well, you lose luma and this means that the picture is degraded somewhat. *Using a comb filter for a Y/C separator is better than a chroma trap or chroma bandpass*.


----------



## PimpUigi

OK, as long as I can control it with TRAP.


The reason I'm in this whole mess is cause I didn't know how to control it on my KV-32HS510, and thought it had to do with HDTV vs. SDTV, so I got the KV-32FV310, and still had the problem, then discovered the CTRP switch. (that's when I discovered the service menu's)


So now that I'm getting the XBR960, I'm glad I can still control it.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PimpUigi* /forum/post/12253783
> 
> 
> OK, as long as I can control it with TRAP.
> 
> 
> The reason I'm in this whole mess is cause I didn't know how to control it on my KV-32HS510, and thought it had to do with HDTV vs. SDTV, so I got the KV-32FV310, and still had the problem, then discovered the CTRP switch. (that's when I discovered the service menu's)
> 
> 
> So now that I'm getting the XBR960, I'm glad I can still control it.



I'm not sure I understand what you mean by controlling "it". It appears that a chroma trap is a less than ideal method of seperating chroma and luma from a composite signal, which is why it defaults to off. It is not a disable/enable function of graininess in sd material and I wouldn't recommend leaping into using it for your ps3 just because it appeared to resolve a problem with your SD set. An XBR960 will likely present the ps3 with very good quality without having to make VERY extreme changes in the service menu. If the problem existed on a HS510 and a FV310, then maybe its a problem with the PS3.


----------



## PimpUigi

It was on in my last two TV's, and I didn't figure out how to turn it off until the second TV, unfortunately.


Since the first TV was much much better, and the whole reason I got rid of the first one was to get rid of that problem.


I have no idea why it was on, especially if it's off by default.


I don't have PS3.

The problem is easily noticed in Sega Genesis games though.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PimpUigi* /forum/post/12255067
> 
> 
> It was on in my last two TV's, and I didn't figure out how to turn it off until the second TV, unfortunately.
> 
> 
> Since the first TV was much much better, and the whole reason I got rid of the first one was to get rid of that problem.
> 
> 
> I have no idea why it was on, especially if it's off by default.
> 
> 
> I don't have PS3.
> 
> The problem is easily noticed in Sega Genesis games though.



You indicated earlier that you had turned CTRP to ON in your earlier Sony to clear up a problem and planned to turn TRAP to ON in your next Sony set. I am recommending you NOT do this. As my quote earlier indicated, the comb filter function is a much better way to seperate luma and chroma and using the Chroma TRAP function will compromise quality. I believe your earlier actions merely covered up an underlying problem with your gaming system.


----------



## PimpUigi

My fault for indicating that.


It had been on, and I turned it off.


I've been under the impression that it is on by default, as the last two TV's I had, CTRP was set to 1, and not 0


I am sorry for the confusion : (


----------



## PimpUigi

Today I did some reading up on comb filters vs. chroma traps...

And I found a few things saying that comb filters can produce artifacts in computer generated images...I don't know if the Sega Genesis counts as a computer.


But when I changed the CTRP switch from 1 to 0 it fixed all the graininess of the picture, and now that I think about it, I could call the extra pixelization artifacts...


I also read something that said CTRP set to 0 means Chroma Trap enabled, and set to 1 means Comb Filter enabled...but who knows, since the Sony Service Manuals say 0 is Chroma Trap disabled (and that's the way it makes sense, in binary thinking)


----------



## njt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rtype* /forum/post/12144608
> 
> 
> I'm moving soon and will likely be hiring movers. Does anyone have any advice for moving these things other than "don't move them?"
> 
> 
> It has been sitting on a coffee table in my apartment since it was purchased new. I'd like to put it on something a little higher and more appropriate. Can anyone recommend a tv stand stout enough to hold it confidently that I could get a good deal on? (PM me if you need to send me a url or anything.)
> 
> 
> I would consider the Sony stand if I could find one on clearance but there is no way I'd pay list price for it.




Hey there rtype. I was in the same boat about 10 months ago and had my 960 moved from Jersey to Colorado! It was one of the reasons I had good insurance for the move, lol. 10 months of operation at the new locale and it's still performing like a champ (DirectTV HD lite and HD DVD).


My new place is on the 3rd floor (walkup) and after the movers got the set upstairs they patted me on the back and said "next time... plasma... please".










I'd be happy to talk to ya via PM on packing specifics that worked for me.


Oh also, I have a 960 stand... that now sits empty in a walk in closet. I liked it, but the lack of component storage was a hassel and the modern look didn't fit. I found that the wood stands from furniture row can handle the 960's punishing weight:


----------



## gutwrencher




> Quote:
> I'm moving soon and will likely be hiring movers





I own a moving company and I charge a $50 fee for certian TV's. It has nothing to do with the weight, it's how careful you need to be. I pay my guys a little extra to move them....and this prevents accidents. Plus, I train my workers personally so each move is flawless.


Research the moving company, call the BBB, and use a smaller, LOCAL mom and pop company. They tend to care much more, plus, you don't want to give your $ to an out-of-state based company.


Request, if you don't have the original box, for them to WRAP the TV in plastic wrap. If they are not idiots, they will also be using thick pads in the truck. I have a 200lb HDTV as well, and I can lift it with one other person easily. If a mover CAN'T do it without bitching or stumbling, then they should not be movers. There is no harder, more physically brutal job than a full-time mover. But it will take skill on your part to hire the right one. And make sure to use a mover who does NOT hire "day" or "spot" labor. You don't want a crackhead or ex-convict touching your HDTV, or anything they can rush to a pawnshop after they rip you off.


----------



## BlueMan1

I am having somewhat of a color offset problem. It seems worse with reds than any other color. Below are picts of what the problem looks like. Anyone know a solution?


----------



## Mathesar

Wow .. I recently bought a 42" 1080P Panasonic plasma and must say flat panel tech is coming along nicely (And im a huge CRT fan). At first I had it sitting next to my 34XBR960 comparing HD channels & Xbox360 / PS3 / Bluray, and they all looked superb on the Plasma ,the brighter crisper image combined with the bigger screen gave the plasma the nod, The only downsides are the weaker black levels (although not nearly as bad vs. LCDs ive tried), also the 480i & 480p quality are only average on the Plasma ,But I now understand why having a bigger screen itself can make a big difference in the viewing experience. (I only sit 4-5 feet from it). Trust me im not trying to troll ive just been in search for a bigger tv with CRT like qualities for awhile now and this is the closest ive come so far. Trying various LCDs was a waste of time.


Here's a review on the Plasma: http://reviews.cnet.com/flat-panel-t...-32466828.html


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/12324686
> 
> 
> Wow .. I recently bought a 42" 1080P Panasonic plasma and must say flat panel tech is coming along nicely (And im a huge CRT fan). At first I had it sitting next to my 34XBR960 comparing HD channels & Xbox360 / PS3 / Bluray, and they all looked superb on the Plasma ,the brighter crisper image combined with the bigger screen gave the plasma the nod, The only downsides are the weaker black levels (although not nearly as bad vs. LCDs ive tried), also the 480i & 480p quality are only average on the Plasma ,But I now understand why having a bigger screen itself can make a big difference in the viewing experience. (I only sit 4-5 feet from it). Trust me im not trying to troll ive just been in search for a bigger tv with CRT like qualities for awhile now and this is the closest ive come so far. Trying various LCDs was a waste of time.
> 
> 
> Here's a review on the Plasma: http://reviews.cnet.com/flat-panel-t...-32466828.html



Look at the new Pioneer KURO line...... better blacks


----------



## WJonathan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/12324686
> 
> 
> Wow .. I recently bought a 42" 1080P Panasonic plasma and must say flat panel tech is coming along nicely (And im a huge CRT fan). At first I had it sitting next to my 34XBR960 comparing HD channels & Xbox360 / PS3 / Bluray, and they all looked superb on the Plasma ,the brighter crisper image combined with the bigger screen gave the plasma the nod, The only downsides are the weaker black levels (although not nearly as bad vs. LCDs ive tried), also the 480i & 480p quality are only average on the Plasma ,But I now understand why having a bigger screen itself can make a big difference in the viewing experience. (I only sit 4-5 feet from it). Trust me im not trying to troll ive just been in search for a bigger tv with CRT like qualities for awhile now and this is the closest ive come so far. Trying various LCDs was a waste of time.
> 
> 
> Here's a review on the Plasma: http://reviews.cnet.com/flat-panel-t...-32466828.html



Panasonic makes great plasmas. You should be very happy with it. I almost bit on the 42" 720p Panasonic at Best Buy last week, but common sense prevailed. I don't need _three_ HDTVs.


----------



## JohnGZ28

For those of you with the 960 and the PS3 does the remote for the 960 work with the PS3 when playing Blu Ray discs?


----------



## jgh2829

KD XBR960 in excellent condition $550. Located in North Carolina.


----------



## mr2828




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/12331968
> 
> 
> For those of you with the 960 and the PS3 does the remote for the 960 work with the PS3 when playing Blu Ray discs?



Yes of course it does, why wouldn't it? Anyway I have both and they work great!


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr2828* /forum/post/12334253
> 
> 
> Yes of course it does, why wouldn't it?



Because it's a Sony.


----------



## pdroth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/12331968
> 
> 
> For those of you with the 960 and the PS3 does the remote for the 960 work with the PS3 when playing Blu Ray discs?



Ummm - the remote for the 960 does NOT work the PS3. The PS3 has a bluetooth remote and has no infrared port.


However, there is an after-market solution that I did read about on the PS3 threads that will work. But out of the box you would need both remotes.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pdroth* /forum/post/12341454
> 
> 
> Ummm - the remote for the 960 does NOT work the PS3. The PS3 has a bluetooth remote and has no infrared port.
> 
> 
> However, there is an after-market solution that I did read about on the PS3 threads that will work. But out of the box you would need both remotes.



Thanks for the reply. Looks like I'll have to spring for the $24 Blu Ray remote if I feel to lazy to get up and walk across the room.


----------



## pdroth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/12342540
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply. Looks like I'll have to spring for the $24 Blu Ray remote if I feel to lazy to get up and walk across the room.




The PS3 controller will work the Blu-ray player, but for $20 get the nicer looking and better functioning remote.


You will still have to get up to turn the unit on and off though.


----------



## Gouki




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pdroth* /forum/post/12343335
> 
> 
> The PS3 controller will work the Blu-ray player, but for $20 get the nicer looking and better functioning remote.
> 
> 
> You will still have to get up to turn the unit on and off though.



You don't have to get up for squat. Just hold down the "PS" button, tell it to turn off, confirm in the next step and there you are.


----------



## pdroth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gouki* /forum/post/12346218
> 
> 
> You don't have to get up for squat. Just hold down the "PS" button, tell it to turn off, confirm in the next step and there you are.



If that's true, it might be the best kept secret about the PS3. Can't wait to try it out tonight.


----------



## georgegreer

Ever since I've had the 34XBR960, regular DVD images have an area of warping, from top to bottom of screen, about halfway between the middle and left end of the screen. It's like seeing through a warped mirror, and is only noticed when the scene pans left or right. Images expand then contract as they pass through the warp area. Same thing when I play lower resolution videos from my digital camera through the front RCA inputs, as well as the composite video inputs in the back. It does not happen with 1080i HDTV input from my antenna, though.


It's subtle on DVDs, so I haven't worried about it, but I'll be out of warranty in a few months, and am concerned that it's in the analog to digital video converter, so would show the problem when I get an HD/Blu Ray DVD player.


Anyone ever heard of this or have an idea about what it is? I'll be asking for a service call soon, I think.


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GlenC* /forum/post/12324996
> 
> 
> Look at the new Pioneer KURO line...... better blacks



I did end up returning the Panasonic for a Kuro 4280HD and im floored by the picture quality, The black levels are *very* close to my XBR960's black levels which is just not something I expected to see from a non CRT and on top of that the brightness is at least 2x brighter than the Panasonic along with much better 480P quality, I ended up paying more than I wanted to but Im VERY happy with the results.


----------



## theroys88




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/12324686
> 
> 
> Wow .. I recently bought a 42" 1080P Panasonic plasma and must say flat panel tech is coming along nicely (And im a huge CRT fan). At first I had it sitting next to my 34XBR960 comparing HD channels & Xbox360 / PS3 / Bluray, and they all looked superb on the Plasma ,the brighter crisper image combined with the bigger screen gave the plasma the nod, The only downsides are the weaker black levels (although not nearly as bad vs. LCDs ive tried), also the 480i & 480p quality are only average on the Plasma ,But I now understand why having a bigger screen itself can make a big difference in the viewing experience. (I only sit 4-5 feet from it). Trust me im not trying to troll ive just been in search for a bigger tv with CRT like qualities for awhile now and this is the closest ive come so far. Trying various LCDs was a waste of time.
> 
> 
> Here's a review on the Plasma: http://reviews.cnet.com/flat-panel-t...-32466828.html



Coming from a Sony 36xs955 and Panny T-34wx54 I can say that my Samsung T5265f blows away my CRTs other then black levels. Wish they had the black levels of my CRTs but the amount of detail and punch is incredible. On my CRT my HD DVD movies did not look that much better then the SD version on a good dvd player. On my Samsung it is night and day.


----------



## avhed




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *theroys88* /forum/post/12374596
> 
> 
> Coming from a Sony 36xs955 and Panny T-34wx54 I can say that my Samsung T5265f blows away my CRTs other then black levels. Wish they had the black levels of my CRTs but the amount of detail and punch is incredible. On my CRT my HD DVD movies did not look that much better then the SD version on a good dvd player. On my Samsung it is night and day.



On my Sony KD-34XS955 Blu-Ray can be way better than DVD.


----------



## mjrtoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *avhed* /forum/post/12380756
> 
> 
> On my Sony KD-34XS955 Blu-Ray can be way better than DVD.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *theroys88* /forum/post/12374596
> 
> 
> Coming from a Sony 36xs955 and Panny T-34wx54 I can say that my Samsung T5265f blows away my CRTs other then black levels. Wish they had the black levels of my CRTs but the amount of detail and punch is incredible. On my CRT my HD DVD movies did not look that much better then the SD version on a good dvd player. On my Samsung it is night and day.



If you're sitting the same distance away from the 34" as you are from the 52" I would expect you would notice a difference between 480p and 720p/1080i/1080p. This is simply because of the size vs. distance, doing anything over 480p on a 34" television when seated over like 5' away is pointless, your eye cannot resolve the difference in resolution.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjrtoo* /forum/post/12384007
> 
> 
> doing anything over 480p on a 34" television when seated over like 5' away is pointless, your eye cannot resolve the difference in resolution.



You may want to consider laser eye surgery.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjrtoo* /forum/post/12384007
> 
> 
> If you're sitting the same distance away from the 34" as you are from the 52" I would expect you would notice a difference between 480p and 720p/1080i/1080p. This is simply because of the size vs. distance, doing anything over 480p on a 34" television when seated over like 5' away is pointless, your eye cannot resolve the difference in resolution.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/12388952
> 
> 
> You may want to consider laser eye surgery.



I've seen larger screen sets and the picture also blew me away, but it was due more to size than better picture quality. To compare two differently sized sets both screens should give the illusion of appearing proportionatly equal in size (i.e, sit five to six feet away from a 34 inch set and maybe eight to nine feet away from a 46 inch model).


This is not to say that today's flagship plasmas, LCDs and DLPs do not provide a gorgeous picture. Of course they do. However, they cannot be better than the 960 because, being a CRT, the 960 adds that three-dimensional effect that flat screens cannot along with the deepest blacks available to best enhance picture quality.


So it's still fair to say that the KD34XBR960 is still the reference set for HD quality. If one feels that bigger is better, then, of course go to the larger screen.


----------



## Patrick Heintz

Help. I'd like to channel fix to VIDEO 7, (the HDMI input) but the setting only allows for channel fix to VIDEO 1 (or a number of OTA channels). I don't have anything connected to VIDEO 1 or any OTA channels.


I've tried to label VIDEO 1 as SKIP but it stil appears when cycling through the video inputs.


Is there a workaround for this?


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Patrick Heintz* /forum/post/12394578
> 
> 
> Help. I'd like to channel fix to VIDEO 7, (the HDMI input) but the setting only allows for channel fix to VIDEO 1 (or a number of OTA channels). I don't have anything connected to VIDEO 1 or any OTA channels.
> 
> 
> I've tried to label VIDEO 1 as SKIP but it stil appears when cycling through the video inputs.
> 
> 
> Is there a workaround for this?



I'm not quite sure what your trying to do. I believe the Channel Fix option has to do with using an RF modulated source. The channel fix is matched to the RF channel that a vhs player or video console is set to output on. BTW, an RF modulated source is about the worst signal you can input into a tv.


Channel fixing to video7, which is hdmi, doesn't really make much sense. I would recommend you SKIP all unused inputs and turn channel fix to OFF and see if that achieves what you are trying to set up. You might not be able to SKIP the internal tuner which, on my HS510, is labelled TV.


----------



## Patrick Heintz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/12396490
> 
> 
> I'm not quite sure what your trying to do. I believe the Channel Fix option has to do with using an RF modulated source. The channel fix is matched to the RF channel that a vhs player or video console is set to output on. BTW, an RF modulated source is about the worst signal you can input into a tv.
> 
> 
> Channel fixing to video7, which is hdmi, doesn't really make much sense. I would recommend you SKIP all unused inputs and turn channel fix to OFF and see if that achieves what you are trying to set up. You might not be able to SKIP the internal tuner which, on my HS510, is labelled TV.



I want to skip selection of the internal tuner when cycling through the video inputs.


If I set Channel Fix to off and skip Video 1, then the internal tuner will be selected when cycling through the inputs, resulting in a snowy picture.


I found a compromise which was to select channel C0 on the TV input. This channel doesn't output snow when I'm cycling through the inputs, but it would be nice to eliminate the selection of the TV tuner altogether since I'm not using it.


Is there a way to skip the TV tuner when cycling through the inputs?


----------



## mjrtoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/12388952
> 
> 
> You may want to consider laser eye surgery.



...or maybe you do...










It's really not that hard to test, give it a shot, you'll see what I mean.


----------



## djswartz

I see multiple posts stating that the 34xbr960 is HDCP compliant and Sony does specify that but I have not been able to get it to work on my early production 34xbr960. It will not work with a new HD-A3 via HDMI (same cable to another HDTV does work) and my Dish 622 reports that the TV is not HDCP compliant. Sony says no updates are available but I do not understand why some 34xbr960's are reported to work with the HD-A3 unless there was a design change that was not documented as an update. I would be interested to hear if there are others that have not been able to connect HD-DVD or BlueRay DVD players to their 34xbr960 via HDMI.


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjrtoo* /forum/post/12400989
> 
> 
> ...or maybe you do...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's really not that hard to test, give it a shot, you'll see what I mean.



Do you even own this set or any 34 inch HD tube for that matter?


I do own this set and watch it daily, and there is clear difference between DVDs and HD at five feet. In my opinion, it is not even up to the debate. The only way that I can see your claim being reasonable is when someone watches the set from the distance greater than 8-10 feet.


More ever, even my lower resolution xbr970 shows noticeable difference between HD and DVDs at five feet. It is less than xbr 960, but it is still definitely there.


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djswartz* /forum/post/12401285
> 
> 
> I see multiple posts stating that the 34xbr960 is HDCP compliant and Sony does specify that but I have not been able to get it to work on my early production 34xbr960. It will not work with a new HD-A3 via HDMI (same cable to another HDTV does work) and my Dish 622 reports that the TV is not HDCP compliant. Sony says no updates are available but I do not understand why some 34xbr960's are reported to work with the HD-A3 unless there was a design change that was not documented as an update. I would be interested to hear if there are others that have not been able to connect HD-DVD or BlueRay DVD players to their 34xbr960 via HDMI.



My June 2005 34xbr960 definitely works with a Toshiba A2 via HDMI.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjrtoo* /forum/post/12400989
> 
> 
> ...or maybe you do...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's really not that hard to test, give it a shot, you'll see what I mean.



Are you saying that when I put in my superbit version of Spiderman and watch it at 480p, then switch to my Blu Ray version of Spiderman and watch the same scene at 1080i I can't see a difference in picture quality between the two if I'm more than 5 feet away?


----------



## georgegreer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SwiftSweeper* /forum/post/12405931
> 
> 
> Do you even own this set or any 34 inch HD tube for that matter?
> 
> 
> I do own this set and watch it daily, and there is clear difference between DVDs and HD at five feet. In my opinion, it is not even up to the debate. The only way that I can see your claim being reasonable is when someone watches the set from the distance greater than 8-10 feet.
> 
> 
> More ever, even my lower resolution xbr970 shows noticeable difference between HD and DVDs at five feet. It is less than xbr 960, but it is still definitely there.



I have a 34XBR960 and watch it from 9 feet. The difference between 1080i broadcast TV over my antenna and a DVD (from a Sony player that is several years old) is completely obvious, with the 1080i being quite superior. I've never tried a HD-/BluRay DVD player.


Also, on regular DVDs, there is a slight warping when scenes are panned horizontally. It is only seen in an area about 2 inches wide about 8 inches from the right side of the screen. I rarely notice it, and it is more obvious on DVDs made from digital camera videos, but it is there, and does not occur with the 1080i TV signal.


Anybody seen or heard of this, or know where the problem might be, or if it is fixable? Never had a service call on it, but I have a few more months in warranty.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/12410485
> 
> 
> Are you saying that when I put in my superbit version of Spiderman and watch it at 480p, then switch to my Blu Ray version of Spiderman and watch the same scene at 1080i I can't see a difference in picture quality between the two if I'm more than 5 feet away?



Will admit I see a difference in 1080i compared to 480p when it comes to "live" material. For example, I have many operas on DVD which look great but am completely awe-struck with the enhanced sharpness, color, detail etc. of operas when seen on VOOM-HD during the weekend.


However, there are many times I see little difference when it comes to film content on the 960. Assuming both sources use pristine prints in the same aspect ratio, material on standard DVDs (i.e., Star Wars II and III) appear just as good as when seen on HD stations. Of course, this is partially due to the 960's outstanding line doubling system and other enhancements.


Also take into account many who have reviewed the pros and cons of upconverting DVD players mention that for CRT, such players are not necessary due to the nature of tube sets and their internal processing (it's flat-panel and rear-projection sets that require upconverting players). However, most reviewers also state a good upconverting DVD player can produce almost the same quality picture as that of HD or Blue Ray if the source material itself is pristine.


From my own personal experience, I just can't see how films like the above mentioned Star Wars episodes could look any better than they already are on a good progressive scan DVD player output to the 960. At the same time, I have both the original and newly frame-by-frame digitally remastered versions of many James Bond films and the new ones are vastly superior over the first releases. So it's not just the 960 that makes standard DVDs (output on 480p) appear so great but also the time and effort spent on mastering the DVD material itself.


Based on these assessments


1) the 960 does not require use of an upconverting DVD player because it's internal processing produces the same results,

2) upconverting DVD players produce pictures almost equal to 1080i,

3) therefore, 960 owners will often see little difference between 480p filmed material on DVD opposed to certain 1080p DVDs since the 960 upconverting is equivalent to that of an upconversion player and upconversion players are deemed almost equal to HD quality.


----------



## mjrtoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SwiftSweeper* /forum/post/12405931
> 
> 
> Do you even own this set or any 34 inch HD tube for that matter?
> 
> 
> I do own this set and watch it daily, and there is clear difference between DVDs and HD at five feet. In my opinion, it is not even up to the debate. The only way that I can see your claim being reasonable is when someone watches the set from the distance greater than 8-10 feet.
> 
> 
> More ever, even my lower resolution xbr970 shows noticeable difference between HD and DVDs at five feet. It is less than xbr 960, but it is still definitely there.



I do own this television actually, and do have a Blu-Ray player. Switching between 480p and 720p/1080i/1080p on the output of setting of the Blu-Ray player while watching either an HD movie or standard DVD and sitting about 12' away the resolution is indistinguishable. If you re-read the post I said that beyond like 5' the resolution change would be hard to see. The closer you sit to the 34" screen the higher resolutions make a difference, like a computer monitor for instance.


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjrtoo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If you re-read the post I said that beyond like 5' the resolution change would be hard to see.



This is not that you said earlier.



In the previous post you have said the following:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjrtoo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This is simply because of the size vs. distance, doing anything over 480p on a 34" television when seated over like 5' away is pointless, your eye cannot resolve the difference in resolution.



In my view, there is quite a difference between these two statements. One is saying that there is no visible difference between HD and DVD at the distance greater than 5 feet. The other one is saying that difference is hard to see which essentially implies that there is still some visiable difference at 5 feet and beyond.


Regardless of the above, I still see the difference between HD and DVD(movies or otherwise) at the distance greater than 5 feet. I would say at around 8 to 10 feet it indeed becomes "hard to see" the difference.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjrtoo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The closer you sit to the 34" screen the higher resolutions make a difference, like a computer monitor for instance.



This is common sense.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjrtoo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> sitting about 12' away the resolution is indistinguishable.



I can agree with this.


----------



## Shadowknight

Craigslist has been lacking in helping me find a 960 in the North Carolina area. Any other possible sources to track down one of these TV sets?


----------



## mjrtoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SwiftSweeper* /forum/post/12429711
> 
> 
> This is not that you said earlier.
> 
> 
> 
> In the previous post you have said the following:
> 
> 
> In my view, there is quite a difference between these two statements. One is saying that there is no visible difference between HD and DVD at the distance greater than 5 feet. The other one is saying that difference is hard to see which essentially implies that there is still some visiable difference at 5 feet and beyond.
> 
> 
> Regardless of the above, I still see the difference between HD and DVD(movies or otherwise) at the distance greater than 5 feet. I would say at around 8 to 10 feet it indeed becomes "hard to see" the difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is common sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can agree with this.



Sorry, if my previous post was misleading. I mean that the further you sit away from the 34" the less important high resolution becomes. 34" is a small screen, you have to sit very close to get the benifit of resolutions over 480p.


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjrtoo* /forum/post/12431866
> 
> 
> I mean that the further you sit away from the 34" the less important high resolution becomes. 34" is a small screen, you have to sit very close to get the benifit of resolutions over 480p.



I agree, that one needs to sit very close to get the full benefit of HD on this set







. I sit around 4-5 feet from the screen when I watch HD. I still think that where is some visible difference between HD and DVDs even at the distances greater than 5 feet and up to 8 - 10 feet though.


----------



## Virginia Cook

I have an XBR960 that I am getting ready to list on Craigslist, but I'm in Virginia. I'm probably about five hours away from Charlotte. My TV is in perfect, like new condition. It has been kept in a closed armoire and has never been moved.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SwiftSweeper* /forum/post/12436544
> 
> 
> I agree, that one needs to sit very close to get the full benefit of HD on this set
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I sit around 4-5 feet from the screen when I watch HD. I still think that where is some visible difference between HD and DVDs even at the distances greater than 5 feet and up to 8 - 10 feet though.



There are two different takes on viewing distance. Crutchfield recommends sitting between 4-1/2 feet to seven feet for 34 inch sets, closer for HD quality and further back for standard definition. CNet states sit twice the distance as the screen size (for the 960 that means 5-2/3 feet) which is the usually the distance I use for viewing HD or DVD.


Again, from that distance, there are many times I find the quality of motion pictures on DVD on par with that of HDTV. I've actually preferred the DVD detail on Peter Jackson's King Kong opposed to HBO-HD (with a 16x9 aspect ratio). Will also admit I have been disappointed in the video quality of some new DVD releases ("300" for example) and often wondered if less effort was spent mastering the standard DVD as opposed to the HD/Blue Ray equivalent.

Not owning a HD/Blue-Ray player I can only go by what I've read and those reviews have been mixed - some rave about the quality upgrade while others found only subtle differences. Wonder how much this is due to the monitor being used in the comparision? Again, I think it's a combination of the 960 (and other flagship units) doing a great job of video processing and the quality of the re-mastering that leads to these mixed reviews.


----------



## WJonathan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Virginia Cook* /forum/post/12438689
> 
> 
> I have an XBR960 that I am getting ready to list on Craigslist, but I'm in Virginia. I'm probably about five hours away from Charlotte. My TV is in perfect, like new condition. It has been kept in a closed armoire and has never been moved.



What part of Virginia?


----------



## Virginia Cook




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WJonathan* /forum/post/12444155
> 
> 
> What part of Virginia?



I'm in Northern Virginia, located near the center of Prince William County.


----------



## jgh2829

The 960 is in Durham NC and still available if you are interested.


----------



## WJonathan

Rats, I'm in Richmond. That would be a long drive. Thanks anyway.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rick0725* /forum/post/12505278
> 
> 
> I am having a pixelation issue the last few months with off air digital. Seems to be getting worse. The other sets are fine in comparison.
> 
> 
> I checked all possible reception and connection related issues.
> 
> 
> Is there a service issue related to the tuner board or anything else I should know about?



This sounds like it could be a signal strength issue. The tuner in the 960 uses one of the earlier "chipsets," which weren't as sensitive as later versions. (The "5th. generation" is generally credited with being adequate--the '960 came out, as I recall, about 6 months before these new chips.) Your other sets are probably newer than the '960 and include the better chips, so they're not experiencing any problems.


At any rate, we're lucky, because the '960 has a diagnostic screen that reads signal to noise ratio directly in decibels. Go to that screen and see what the s/n ratio is on the channel(s) that are causing a problem. In my case, the picture drops out at 23 dB (higher is better!), and holds solid at about 27 dB. The best I see is about 32 dB. IF signal strength turns out to be your problem, you need to improve the signal going to your set. You can do this by buying a larger antenna or adding a distribution amplifier.


Mark


----------



## papastratos




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shadowknight* /forum/post/12430608
> 
> 
> Craigslist has been lacking in helping me find a 960 in the North Carolina area. Any other possible sources to track down one of these TV sets?



I have 34xbr960 for sale in NY area in perfect condition.


----------



## Shadowknight

That's okay... I'm in talks with someone in Durham about buying their 960.


----------



## ChuckZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *papastratos* /forum/post/12530726
> 
> 
> I have 34xbr960 for sale in NY area in perfect condition.



How would you describe it as being in "perfect" condition?


----------



## Shadowknight

Got the 960 today, then went to a pawn shop and got a 910 for $500, but they threw in a free Samsung digital tuner, DVI to HDMI cable, and some RCA audio plugs to sweeten the pot. Having slept four hours last night, and spent driving or moving TVs until 9PM tonight, I am too tired to watch television. Bleh.


----------



## Artwood

Did anyone ever do a side by side comparison of picture quality between the 34XBR960 and the 34XBR960N?


Which was better?


Did the protective coating help the picture quality or hurt it?


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Artwood* /forum/post/12569388
> 
> 
> Did anyone ever do a side by side comparison of picture quality between the 34XBR960 and the 34XBR960N?
> 
> 
> Which was better?
> 
> 
> Did the protective coating help the picture quality or hurt it?



Have not done a side by side but in theory if both sets are ISF calibrated correctly the pictures should be the same.


----------



## Artwood

I don't think that is necessarily true--there can be no doubt that one will be able to be brighter because the light isn't filtered whiole the other one may have better blacks.


the calibrate result would not make them loo the same.


Does anyone know why Sony thought it was a good idea to add the coating to the

34XBR960N?


----------



## DJF(NJ)

It's been discussed here before, but from what I recall, the 960 has the film-strip coating adhesively applied to the screen whereas the 960N has a plastic-type shield in front of it. When you open the front panel up on the N model,this slides or pops out, whereas on the 960 you have to peel it off very carefully. There is a member on here who did took his to his 960 and posted the how-to and results.


----------



## Shadowknight

Quick question... I bought a used 960 and 910 yesterday. Is it worth getting these two sets calibrated, or is it pretty close to D6500 after you set the color temperature to warm?


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Artwood* /forum/post/12571562
> 
> 
> I don't think that is necessarily true--there can be no doubt that one will be able to be brighter because the light isn't filtered whiole the other one may have better blacks.
> 
> 
> the calibrate result would not make them loo the same.
> 
> 
> Does anyone know why Sony thought it was a good idea to add the coating to the
> 
> 34XBR960N?



If done correctly the calibrated results "should" make them look the same. That's the point of the calibration, to set the TVs to the same standard.


Just because one can be brighter doesn't mean it should be brighter.


PS: My statements apply to two TVs using the same picture tube from the same manufacturer. There will always be a difference if you compare a CRT to a LCD to a Plasma, etc.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shadowknight* /forum/post/12572890
> 
> 
> Quick question... I bought a used 960 and 910 yesterday. Is it worth getting these two sets calibrated, or is it pretty close to D6500 after you set the color temperature to warm?



If you can afford it get them calibrated.


----------



## DSperber

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Shadowknight* 
Quick question... I bought a used 960 and 910 yesterday. Is it worth getting these two sets calibrated, or is it pretty close to D6500 after you set the color temperature to warm?
Some of this non-ISF setup is subjective, and personal preference and taste based on what you watch from what source and what you enjoy seeing. Having the set ISF-calibrated may certainly be a much more objective way of optimizing what the set produces as far as the Service Menu adjustments can provide.


But I think most XBR* users who start off with User Menu adjustments prefer a color temperature of "neutral" rather than "warm". I, personally, have "cool" set because I prefer its look, and then I adjust other settings (both user and service) to optimize (or customize to personal taste) from that starting point.


I, personally, think that "warm" produces too reddish a result to start with, something I find myself then offsetting anyway by other opposing adjustments in the user and service menus. Why not start from something which better reflects my viewing tastes and results prescribed by setup-assists, such as DVE or Avia.


Remember, these factory-provided presets (like color temperature) are simply factory-provided starting points for groups of settings. Final setup still all comes down to either (1) more subjectively-based results, based on personal tastes, or (2) more objectively-based results, based on meters and measurements and setup reference materials.


And what you end up with, even objectively, still may not be what you "prefer". For example, doing a precision and fabulous setup in a dark room (intended for dark room viewing) will be totally unacceptable for daylight viewing in a family room with lots of windows and natural sunlight. Variations in viewing conditions may require further [temporary] compensation from "Pro" picture mode (generally agreed as the proper no-bias starting point for adjustments) to perhaps "Standard" (to get a watchable picture for daytime condition viewing, but that you would not stay with at night).


One more thing... the XBR960 has memories for settings which are either "global" (for all inputs) or "local" (for each input, separately). An ISF technician will thus adjust each input of the set to optimize things for that input, but using both local and global settings.


The long but thorough "Sony Service Codes" thread is obviously the proper place to get guidance on how to adjust your new Sony CRT. It's a bit overwhelming, but THE most valuable tutorial you're going to find on the web.


Just for reference, here is my own personal group of settings (also found in one of my posts the "service codes" thread, somewhere), for my XBR960. YMMV, but it might be very helpful for getting started.

 

kd-34xbr960.zip 24.2626953125k . file


----------



## Sonyboy

If anyone in Missouri is looking for a 960 (ISF Calibrated) let me know. Almost two years old in immaculate condition.


----------



## Shadowknight

I'm looking to get my set calibrated, and there's a setting for "color axis", where the reds are less strong when it's set to "monitor" instead of default. Should it be set to 'monitor' when the guy calibrates it, or should it be left at default?


----------



## Chorgey

Before mine was calibrated, I made sure that it was set to Monitor


----------



## lewis

I was watching Shattered last night with 2 other people last night and we all kept asking eachother "what did he just say?" I've never been altogether happy with the sound reproduction/speakers on the 960 since I got the set last year but its getting really irritating now for some reason. Vocals especially seem off timbre. I have an older 32XBR100 'squared' set up next to the 960 and sound reproduction is much clearer. Anyone else experienced problems. Is this a warranty issue? I'm having a really hard time believing this is normal.


----------



## mjrtoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shadowknight* /forum/post/12595867
> 
> 
> I'm looking to get my set calibrated, and there's a setting for "color axis", where the reds are less strong when it's set to "monitor" instead of default. Should it be set to 'monitor' when the guy calibrates it, or should it be left at default?



I had a guy over to fix a tuner issue with this set early in it's career, he also does calibrations so I asked him about calibrating this one. He said that if you set the selection to Monitor and then use Digital Video Essentials you would have a very hard time telling the difference from a 'proffesional calibration' and didn't think it would be worth the 500.00.


----------



## gprro1

I'm looking at buying a used one of these. Bought in 2005, comes with the stand and smaller sony dream theater system for $600. Is there anything I should look for when checking it out?


----------



## gprro1

well, I bought it, I'll have to start reading the thread now


----------



## Ennui

lewis:


You have two of the best CRT TV's made IMO. I also have the same two.


The 32XBR always has had decent sound from the internal speakers. (I bought it new in 1997.) The 960 internal sound on mine has not been a problem. I normally use my 5.1surround system fed from the digital out on the TV.


Sounds like you may have a defective speaker? Have you tried any other sound system or earphones to compare?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjrtoo* /forum/post/12601925
> 
> 
> I had a guy over to fix a tuner issue with this set early in it's career, he also does calibrations so I asked him about calibrating this one. He said that if you set the selection to Monitor and then use Digital Video Essentials you would have a very hard time telling the difference from a 'proffesional calibration' and didn't think it would be worth the 500.00.



Because "Video Essentials" is meant for DVD I'm of the impression it would be less valuable for settings in relation to 1080i because there is a difference between that and 480p just as there is a difference in settings for component compared to HDMI (my DVD and HD user settings are different based the old INHD test patterns and THX Optomizer found on certain DVDs; both were used in conjunction with blue tint glasses required for color).


If service menu adjustments are made using a 480i source would they be independent from those for 1080i? I know they are different with various picture-size options.


----------



## aktham




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sonyboy* /forum/post/12594648
> 
> 
> If anyone in Missouri is looking for a 960 (ISF Calibrated) let me know. Almost two years old in immaculate condition.



you got a pm


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shadowknight* /forum/post/12595867
> 
> 
> I'm looking to get my set calibrated, and there's a setting for "color axis", where the reds are less strong when it's set to "monitor" instead of default. Should it be set to 'monitor' when the guy calibrates it, or should it be left at default?



Your calibrator should go into the service menu and precisely adjust the color decoder settings using specifically designed test patterns. The default and monitor settings are just two different saved combinations of the color decoder settings in the service menu set at the factory. Monitor is better than default, but is still significantly off.


The correct calibrated settings should be:


RYR = 14

RYB = 15

GYR = 6

GYB = 4


See the Sony Service Codes thread for more details.


----------



## Brad Smith

I think I have to sell my XBR960 because I am moving to a much smaller apartment and cannot afford the footprint. Any recommendations on a replacement that's comparable?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/12648283
> 
> 
> Your calibrator should go into the service menu and precisely adjust the color decoder settings using specifically designed test patterns. The default and monitor settings are just two different saved combinations of the color decoder settings in the service menu set at the factory. Monitor is better than default, but is still significantly off.
> 
> 
> The correct calibrated settings should be:
> 
> 
> RYR = 14
> 
> RYB = 15
> 
> GYR = 6
> 
> GYB = 4
> 
> 
> See the Sony Service Codes thread for more details.



Are these callibrated setting for both 1080i and 480p sources?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/12677688
> 
> 
> Are these callibrated setting for both 1080i and 480p sources?



Based on the Service Manual charts, these are "global" settings, applicable to all resolutions.


Note that these four CRUCIAL settings (pertaining to the infamous "red push" bias of factory settings) offset (or are, themselves offset) by the other user menu and service menu settings that pertain to color. And they can all be adjusted, so as a complete set they ALL determine how color appears on the screen. They ALL must be considered when communicating about how a particular set is adjusted.


In other words, color is determined not just by these CRUCIAL service menu settings, but also by (1) user menu "color", "hue", "color temp" and "color axis", along with (2) these RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB values. How you start from the user menu determines what the service menu values might end up with.


For example, for INPUT6 on my XBR960 (which I use strictly for 720p/1080i input from HD-DVR and D-VHS VCR) I start off with COLOR=31 and HUE=0. Then I prefer the slightly bluish starting point of COLOR TEMP = COOL, coupled with the "warming up" a bit by COLOR AXIS = DEFAULT (as opposed to MONITOR, which is slightly less warm). From here, I end up with my own personal service menu settings of RYR=13, RYB=15, GYR=5 and GYB=4.


As you see, my CRUCIAL service menu "red push" adjustments" are slightly different from the other earlier posted values. Very close, but slightly different. But then I've got COLOR TEMP=COOL and COLOR AXIS = DEFAULT. The compared visual results of the two different SETTING SETS may actually be the same.


Anyway, the most important point here is that RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB are CRUCIAL service menu adjustments that will absolutely improve color appearance and eliminate "red push" that is inherent in Sony factory settings and available other bias color temperature and color axis presets.


Then, since RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB are "global" and cannot be set by input or resolution, working backwards when adjusting other inputs you're going to have to adjust the user menu settings for those other inputs to get "best color" for those inputs... since the global service menu color items must now be considered "fixed". In contrast, the user menu color items are stored uniquely by input.


----------



## RF_Engineer

Hello,


This is my first post on this forum so be gentle. I couldn't find an official KV-34XBR910 thread so I posted here since the 960 was the next generation of my 910.


I have the dreaded TV won't turn on with blinking standby light problem (6 blinks in row that repeats). I got it to work for another week by doing a power reset but now even that doesn't work. So I brought it to my local repair shop (MS Electronics in Plano, TX).


I read the other thread on the board about this issue with another Sony model so I was expecting to have to replace the power supply card with the faulty ICs on it. What I wasn't expecting was to also have to replace the deflection module. Total repair cost is estimated to be about $550 and I paid about $2200 for it in 2004.


My question is should I pay that much to repair it or just invest in a nice flat screen TV like a Sony/Samsung LCD or Panasonic/Pioneer plasma? One thought is that I would be better off buying a new flat screen since it was more than just the PS board; a bad omen in my mind since I have had to repair two other Sony's in the past. Another thought is to fix it since the flat screen prices are falling like a stone and LED technology is still evolving.


Maybe I can fix it now, get a better TV next year and pocket the difference $$$? Your thoughts?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/12681347
> 
> 
> Based on the Service Manual charts, these are "global" settings, applicable to all resolutions.
> 
> 
> Note that these four CRUCIAL settings (pertaining to the infamous "red push" bias of factory settings) offset (or are, themselves offset) by the other user menu and service menu settings that pertain to color. And they can all be adjusted, so as a complete set they ALL determine how color appears on the screen. They ALL must be considered when communicating about how a particular set is adjusted.
> 
> 
> In other words, color is determined not just by these CRUCIAL service menu settings, but also by (1) user menu "color", "hue", "color temp" and "color axis", along with (2) these RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB values. How you start from the user menu determines what the service menu values might end up with.
> 
> 
> For example, for INPUT6 on my XBR960 (which I use strictly for 720p/1080i input from HD-DVR and D-VHS VCR) I start off with COLOR=31 and HUE=0. Then I prefer the slightly bluish starting point of COLOR TEMP = COOL, coupled with the "warming up" a bit by COLOR AXIS = DEFAULT (as opposed to MONITOR, which is slightly less warm). From here, I end up with my own personal service menu settings of RYR=13, RYB=15, GYR=5 and GYB=4.
> 
> 
> As you see, my CRUCIAL service menu "red push" adjustments" are slightly different from the other earlier posted values. Very close, but slightly different. But then I've got COLOR TEMP=COOL and COLOR AXIS = DEFAULT. The compared visual results of the two different SETTING SETS may actually be the same.
> 
> 
> Anyway, the most important point here is that RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB are CRUCIAL service menu adjustments that will absolutely improve color appearance and eliminate "red push" that is inherent in Sony factory settings and available other bias color temperature and color axis presets.
> 
> 
> Then, since RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB are "global" and cannot be set by input or resolution, working backwards when adjusting other inputs you're going to have to adjust the user menu settings for those other inputs to get "best color" for those inputs... since the global service menu color items must now be considered "fixed". In contrast, the user menu color items are stored uniquely by input.



Hi,


Saw they were "global" after switching to 480p and the service settings didn't change. My factory settings were also 8/9/9/6 and changed to 14/15/6/4 as previously suggested by Shadowknight.


I figured user settings would then need to be re-adjusted. Although subtle, these changes combined with the new service settings enabled me to change the axis to monitor (previously red was weak unless in default).


You are right - the combined changes do make a difference. FYI, my user settings for HDMI are PRO, picture 41, brightness 21, color 40 and hue 5 and neutral color temperature. For DVD's it's MOVIE with settings of 31/21/30/2, neutral temperature and default (rather than monitor). The player is 480p with an internal "cinema" mode which, I assume, is reason there are such differences in picture, color and axis settings between HD and DVD.


I use the THX optomizer for DVD and old INHD test patterns (saved on DVR) for HD with blue filter glasses for accurate color.


Thanks again for the tips. As long as one writes down the original factory settings, one should not be leary about experimenting with some of the service menu options.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RF_Engineer* /forum/post/12687310
> 
> 
> ....I have the dreaded TV won't turn on with blinking standby light problem (6 blinks in row that repeats). I got it to work for another week by doing a power reset but now even that doesn't work. So I brought it to my local repair shop (MS Electronics in Plano, TX).
> 
> 
> I read the other thread on the board about this issue with another Sony model so I was expecting to have to replace the power supply card with the faulty ICs on it. What I wasn't expecting was to also have to replace the deflection module. Total repair cost is estimated to be about $550 and I paid about $2200 for it in 2004.......
> 
> 
> Maybe I can fix it now, get a better TV next year and pocket the difference $$$? Your thoughts?



Unless the shop has actually attempted a repair, they're just guessing that you need a deflection repair. 6/7 blink failures appear to be commonly caused by a pair of high failure ICs. If you don't want to sink much money into it, I suggest you replace the standard suspect ICs on the D-board yourself, hope for the best, and save your $550. There have been quite a few successful reports here in AVSForum as well as Agoraquest.


----------



## patsan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RF_Engineer* /forum/post/12687310
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> This is my first post on this forum so be gentle. I couldn't find an official KV-34XBR910 thread so I posted here since the 960 was the next generation of my 910.
> 
> 
> I have the dreaded TV won't turn on with blinking standby light problem (6 blinks in row that repeats). I got it to work for another week by doing a power reset but now even that doesn't work. So I brought it to my local repair shop (MS Electronics in Plano, TX).
> 
> 
> I read the other thread on the board about this issue with another Sony model so I was expecting to have to replace the power supply card with the faulty ICs on it. What I wasn't expecting was to also have to replace the deflection module. Total repair cost is estimated to be about $550 and I paid about $2200 for it in 2004.
> 
> 
> My question is should I pay that much to repair it or just invest in a nice flat screen TV like a Sony/Samsung LCD or Panasonic/Pioneer plasma? One thought is that I would be better off buying a new flat screen since it was more than just the PS board; a bad omen in my mind since I have had to repair two other Sony's in the past. Another thought is to fix it since the flat screen prices are falling like a stone and LED technology is still evolving.
> 
> 
> Maybe I can fix it now, get a better TV next year and pocket the difference $$$? Your thoughts?



I had the same thing last year with mine. They replaced the board under warranty thankfully.

I've since gotten rid of the set and gotten a Sammy 5265, which blows this set away as far as PQ, screen size, weight and everything else I can imagine.

I honestly was never blown away by this set. While it was nice, I never got that WOW feeling with it.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RF_Engineer* /forum/post/12687310
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> This is my first post on this forum so be gentle. I couldn't find an official KV-34XBR910 thread so I posted here since the 960 was the next generation of my 910.
> 
> 
> I have the dreaded TV won't turn on with blinking standby light problem (6 blinks in row that repeats). I got it to work for another week by doing a power reset but now even that doesn't work. So I brought it to my local repair shop (MS Electronics in Plano, TX).
> 
> 
> I read the other thread on the board about this issue with another Sony model so I was expecting to have to replace the power supply card with the faulty ICs on it. What I wasn't expecting was to also have to replace the deflection module. Total repair cost is estimated to be about $550 and I paid about $2200 for it in 2004.
> 
> 
> My question is should I pay that much to repair it or just invest in a nice flat screen TV like a Sony/Samsung LCD or Panasonic/Pioneer plasma? One thought is that I would be better off buying a new flat screen since it was more than just the PS board; a bad omen in my mind since I have had to repair two other Sony's in the past. Another thought is to fix it since the flat screen prices are falling like a stone and LED technology is still evolving.
> 
> 
> Maybe I can fix it now, get a better TV next year and pocket the difference $$$? Your thoughts?



Tough call. Ouch--"brought it in." My set will have in-home service if it ever needs it.


Over the years, I've owned 6 Trinitron TV's. Four of them have needed repair. but once each set was repaired, it played just fine for years afterward. So if you feel this service shop is on the ball--and they will warranty their work--I would seriously consider repairing the set and using it for a year or two (or more!).



Mark


----------



## RalphArch

Damn TV repair shops just try to charge the most the market will bear. In my case I recently had an RCA MM36100 repaired for $250 (anymore I would have just forfeited my $90 estimate fee - the bad part cost $60 and was probably available for $20 or so but no way I could find out problem). Your set is probably somewhat better than mine - so they will try to go a little higher. But $550 is perhaps more than the market value of a better used set so you are probably better either getting a used one for that (see the other thread on how little these are going for) or trying to fix it yourself as raouli suggested with the IC replacements.


----------



## kctobyjoe

I do not know if this IS the right place to ask about this...if not somoen please e me and I wil lchange the location of the 'ad'.


I have a 960 with the accompanying 2 shelf stand that I am looking to sell.

I HAD to have it! When it first came out and paid CRUTCHFIELD $2400 for it


Ill let it go for $1200 with stand but you HAVETA pick it up. _ live in NEPA

Wilkes-barre / Scranton Area (Nanticoke actually!) 18634 zip.


I am getting a wall mount plasma to replace even tho I have NO complaints about my 960.


NEVER repaired. Running almost every day since I purchased it w/o fail. HAVE the remote. It works fine too. Believe I have the original manual as well ;-)


It probably needs a calibration-I never had that done. Nobody within 150 miles does it :0-(((

[email protected] OR [email protected] _


----------



## WJonathan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kctobyjoe* /forum/post/12777021
> 
> 
> I do not know if this IS the right place to ask about this...if not somoen please e me and I wil lchange the location of the 'ad'.
> 
> 
> I have a 960 with the accompanying 2 shelf stand that I am looking to sell.
> 
> I HAD to have it! When it first came out and paid CRUTCHFIELD $2400 for it
> 
> 
> Ill let it go for $1200 with stand but you HAVETA pick it up. _ live in NEPA
> 
> Wilkes-barre / Scranton Area (Nanticoke actually!) 18634 zip.
> 
> 
> I am getting a wall mount plasma to replace even tho I have NO complaints about my 960.
> 
> 
> NEVER repaired. Running almost every day since I purchased it w/o fail. HAVE the remote. It works fine too. Believe I have the original manual as well ;-)
> 
> 
> It probably needs a calibration-I never had that done. Nobody within 150 miles does it :0-(((
> 
> [email protected] OR [email protected]
> _


_



That's a bit pricey._


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WJonathan* /forum/post/12778935
> 
> 
> That's a bit pricey.



Agreed, these sets are going 400-600 now days.


If it was NIB, then it could be a different story.


----------



## chanoo

If your still intrested I have a 960 with stand in Clinton Twp. for 550.00 [email protected]


----------



## jmystikcfl

Has anybody had any luck getting 5.1 out of the optical output for anything other than broadcast digital TV? Reason I'm asking is that I need to get 5.1 audio from the HDMI source out to my reciever. The optical output on the source is not functioning properly.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jmystikcfl* /forum/post/12809177
> 
> 
> Has anybody had any luck getting 5.1 out of the optical output for anything other than broadcast digital TV? Reason I'm asking is that I need to get 5.1 audio from the HDMI source out to my reciever. The optical output on the source is not functioning properly.



AFAIK, the optical audio output is ONLY from the integrated tuner. It doesn't function as a passthrough from the HDMI input.


----------



## Rockininrio

My HDMI Port won't recognize anything. I've plugged dozens of different devices in and the screen continues as if nothing is connected. Has anyone ever had an hdmi port go bad? Does anyone know about how much it'll cost to get it fixed?


----------



## gprro1

whats up fellow crt dinosaur lovers. I've been liking the 960 I recently acquired. Trying to dig through this and the service code thread. Is it possible to get better focus at the sides of the screen? Thats my main issue I think, along with the geometry being a little off. The sides , particulary the right side is a little fuzzy.


----------



## audioexcels

Hi All,


I'm in a big dilema about going with the Sony 955 (cousin of the 960 and one without the coating similar to the 960N set). The other set, monster by comparison, is the Pioneer Kuro 5080. Here are some things I need to know from anyone out there that has experience with both:


This is a comparo or rather, which is better in these areas of primary concern:


1) Standard Def TV


2) Whites (I watch a lot of hockey)


3) Blacks (Black levels of both)


4) Sharpness with an Standard definition feed?


5) Sharpness with an HD feed?


6) Overall "look" between both, meaning, which set draws you in more or has that "pop" and "3-D" look to it?



Overall impressions of both of these sets, the 960 series vs. the Kuro 5080HD is extremely welcome.


Thanks Everyone!


----------



## mjrtoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audioexcels* /forum/post/12837906
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> 
> I'm in a big dilema about going with the Sony 955 (cousin of the 960 and one without the coating similar to the 960N set). The other set, monster by comparison, is the Pioneer Kuro 5080. Here are some things I need to know from anyone out there that has experience with both:
> 
> 
> This is a comparo or rather, which is better in these areas of primary concern:
> 
> 
> 1) Standard Def TV
> 
> 
> 2) Whites (I watch a lot of hockey)
> 
> 
> 3) Blacks (Black levels of both)
> 
> 
> 4) Sharpness with an Standard definition feed?
> 
> 
> 5) Sharpness with an HD feed?
> 
> 
> 6) Overall "look" between both, meaning, which set draws you in more or has that "pop" and "3-D" look to it?
> 
> 
> 
> Overall impressions of both of these sets, the 960 series vs. the Kuro 5080HD is extremely welcome.
> 
> 
> Thanks Everyone!



What, other than 20 inches? A tube TV is about as good as you can get, but is a 34" set really a home theater....I don't think so. So, I would say if it's your main HT setup, use the 50" if it's for a very nice bedroom set or something, use the tube.


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audioexcels* /forum/post/12837906
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> 
> I'm in a big dilema about going with the Sony 955 (cousin of the 960 and one without the coating similar to the 960N set). The other set, monster by comparison, is the Pioneer Kuro 5080. Here are some things I need to know from anyone out there that has experience with both:
> 
> 
> This is a comparo or rather, which is better in these areas of primary concern:
> 
> 
> 1) Standard Def TV
> 
> 
> 2) Whites (I watch a lot of hockey)
> 
> 
> 3) Blacks (Black levels of both)
> 
> 
> 4) Sharpness with an Standard definition feed?
> 
> 
> 5) Sharpness with an HD feed?
> 
> 
> 6) Overall "look" between both, meaning, which set draws you in more or has that "pop" and "3-D" look to it?
> 
> 
> 
> Overall impressions of both of these sets, the 960 series vs. the Kuro 5080HD is extremely welcome.
> 
> 
> Thanks Everyone!



Smaller is always better with SD sources. Many SD broadcasts don't even look good on a 13" display, size magnifies the problem.
When properly calibrated, the whites should be the same color.
Black levels should be similar, however neither is designed for or should be viewed in a totally dark room. Black level becomes a matter of perception, properly setup, it looks stunning.
The ability to reproduce a good SD source is good, The Fifth Element Super Bit through a decent player looks good.
Any PDP will be sharper, better converged and perfect geometry across the entire screen.
Size is the big thing here along with viewing distance. Choosing the 5080 over the 5010 is somewhat like choosing the XBR970 over the XBR960. Viewing distance is another factor combined with size. If you sit close, at HD distances, 2X screen width, 50" = 5.5', you will see pixels or SDE. 8'-10' is better for the 768p, 5.5 is fine with the 1080p (5010). The bigger you go, the more chance of being drawn into the moment. The smaller the TV the more light in the room needed for viewing, a bias light works wonders.

Many have gone from 34" to 50" and shortly realized they should have gone *BIGGER!* Most HD broadcasts are 1080i, a 960 or a 5080 must rescale the image to display it. The 1080p panels with Dot-by-Dot mode do no rescaling. For a main HT display, I would recommend the 5010FD or better the 6010FD, the Panasonics are a bit cheaper with a little higher black level but a good display. Check out the new PDP review/shootout in Home Theater Magazine


----------



## Mick47

I have Panny BD30 with my Sony 960, great picture. I am going to upgrade my receiver to the new Yamaha 1800. Anybody, that has this combo of BD30/XBR960/1800 had any problems on the picture output or sound? I know the lip sych will be an issue that will probably need the manually adjustment through the Yamaha.


By the way, I had been using a Monster cable 400 hdmi cable from the Panny to the Sony. Very good picture. I gave my son this cable because of the length he needed for his tv. I decided to try the Monster cable ultra 1000 hdmi, mostly to make sure I have the sound transfer for the 1.3a to the up coming new 1800. So, I hooked up the new ultra 1000 and was shocked by the improvement in the new picture quality. I really didn't expect that, I assumed it would be exactly the same as the 400 hdmi was putting out. It made me a believer, even at the extra cost.


----------



## AnalogRocks

I'm looking for one of these set's in the Burlington VT area. The 960 or even the 970 does anybody know of one for sale?


By the way IS there a significant difference in picture quality between the two? Are there any problem area's I should look for while shopping for one of these sets?


TIA

Jeremy


----------



## audioexcels




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GlenC* /forum/post/12857032
> 
> 
> Smaller is always better with SD sources. Many SD broadcasts don't even look good on a 13" display, size magnifies the problem.
> When properly calibrated, the whites should be the same color.
> Black levels should be similar, however neither is designed for or should be viewed in a totally dark room. Black level becomes a matter of perception, properly setup, it looks stunning.
> The ability to reproduce a good SD source is good, The Fifth Element Super Bit through a decent player looks good.
> Any PDP will be sharper, better converged and perfect geometry across the entire screen.
> Size is the big thing here along with viewing distance. Choosing the 5080 over the 5010 is somewhat like choosing the XBR970 over the XBR960. Viewing distance is another factor combined with size. If you sit close, at HD distances, 2X screen width, 50" = 5.5', you will see pixels or SDE. 8'-10' is better for the 768p, 5.5 is fine with the 1080p (5010). The bigger you go, the more chance of being drawn into the moment. The smaller the TV the more light in the room needed for viewing, a bias light works wonders.
> 
> Many have gone from 34" to 50" and shortly realized they should have gone *BIGGER!* Most HD broadcasts are 1080i, a 960 or a 5080 must rescale the image to display it. The 1080p panels with Dot-by-Dot mode do no rescaling. For a main HT display, I would recommend the 5010FD or better the 6010FD, the Panasonics are a bit cheaper with a little higher black level but a good display. Check out the new PDP review/shootout in Home Theater Magazine




So the Plasma is sharper than the 34" tubed set??? I have a 27" TAU flat from year 2001 that was the bottom of the heap tubed set that is way sharper than the Panasonic 700U series set I returned. Curious how the Kuro could be sharper than the Sony 34" SFP set.


I have heard a lot about how the 960 is inferior in terms of that "see through/3-D" look you can achieve with the 960N or the 955 series. I have even seen a lot of people trying to strip off the extra coating applied to the 960 set. Wouldn't it be a fairer test with the Sony 960N or 960 w/out that coating on the glass vs. the Kuro or is the 960N with the lack of whatever coating was on the 960 not much of a difference?


Saw the Kuro in store and in spite its terrible settings in store, it was "obviously" superior to anything else in the store. It makes the Panny 700U series Plasma look like a cartoon blob IMHO...to my eyes, the Kuro is simply "that much better" than the Panasonic and the Panasonic really shouldn't be compared or even classified as anything but a consumer/budget plasma.


----------



## jet757f




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GlenC* /forum/post/12857032
> 
> 
> Smaller is always better with SD sources. Many SD broadcasts don't even look good on a 13" display, size magnifies the problem.
> When properly calibrated, the whites should be the same color.
> Black levels should be similar, however neither is designed for or should be viewed in a totally dark room. Black level becomes a matter of perception, properly setup, it looks stunning.
> The ability to reproduce a good SD source is good, The Fifth Element Super Bit through a decent player looks good.
> Any PDP will be sharper, better converged and perfect geometry across the entire screen.
> Size is the big thing here along with viewing distance. Choosing the 5080 over the 5010 is somewhat like choosing the XBR970 over the XBR960. Viewing distance is another factor combined with size. If you sit close, at HD distances, 2X screen width, 50" = 5.5', you will see pixels or SDE. 8'-10' is better for the 768p, 5.5 is fine with the 1080p (5010). The bigger you go, the more chance of being drawn into the moment. The smaller the TV the more light in the room needed for viewing, a bias light works wonders.
> 
> Many have gone from 34" to 50" and shortly realized they should have gone *BIGGER!* Most HD broadcasts are 1080i, a 960 or a 5080 must rescale the image to display it. The 1080p panels with Dot-by-Dot mode do no rescaling. For a main HT display, I would recommend the 5010FD or better the 6010FD, the Panasonics are a bit cheaper with a little higher black level but a good display. Check out the new PDP review/shootout in Home Theater Magazine




Very nice observations on your part.


I have the Sony 34XBR960N and the 36XS955. I just got the Kuro 5010 and I have been comparing it side by side with my 36XS955 watching the same programs in HD. I would swear they have almost an identical picture look. The only difference is the larger size of the 5010 and also the picture/colors seem alittle more vibrant on the 5010. The 955 is alittle more dull.

SD broadcasting on both of them is terrible..........always has been on the 36XS955.


Im down in Irvine...........do you do calibrations down in this area?


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jet757f* /forum/post/12881320
> 
> 
> Im down in Irvine...........do you do calibrations down in this area?



Yes, I go to Irvine, I have a 6010 down your way tomorrow and a 960 in LA Tuesday!


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audioexcels* /forum/post/12881253
> 
> 
> I have heard a lot about how the 960 is inferior in terms of that "see through/3-D" look you can achieve with the 960N or the 955 series. I have even seen a lot of people trying to strip off the extra coating applied to the 960 set. Wouldn't it be a fairer test with the Sony 960N or 960 w/out that coating on the glass vs. the Kuro or is the 960N with the lack of whatever coating was on the 960 not much of a difference?



I have been reading on this forum for the while, and I have never heard of anything along this lines. Can anyone confirm that this is true?


To my knowledge, both 960 and 960N have anti glare coating. It is just applied in the different manner. 960 has coating applied to plastic sheet which then attached to the tube. On 960N, the coating applied directly to the tube glass.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GlenC* /forum/post/12857032
> 
> 
> Most HD broadcasts are 1080i, a 960 or a 5080 must rescale the image to display it. The 1080p panels with Dot-by-Dot mode do no rescaling.



And since the 960 does rescale, it might explain why I had second thoughts regarding a side by side video comparision between blueray and standard DVD demonstrated on a Sony 40" LCD. On smaller details the blue ray portion was indeed sharper than it's standard counterpart but at the same time small details on standard DVDs never appeared as blurry on my 960 as those on the video demonstration.


While I am sure blueray does provide up to six times more resolution than standard DVDs, an asterick in its printed material does point out the amount of increased resolution depends upon the sources used for comparision. My hunch is the demonstration compared blueray against standard DVDs played at 480i and without use of an upconverting DVD player for flat screens or the rescaling process of a CRT ala the 960. I believe the disclaimer deals with the fact that upconversion, rescaling and quality digital remastering can increase the picture quality of standard DVDs, hence less difference. Also, a blueray disc would look better on a flagship model from a name brand than an inexpensive set (but that's a different story).


Again, this is not meant to degrade the quality of Blue Ray but rather that there is less of a difference on the 960 when a good quality DVD is played on a quality progressive scan player.


----------



## vinnie91

I have a xbr 960 for sale with the stand in Pittsburgh, PA for $500.


TV has never been repaired. Picture looks great. Please email if interested.

[email protected]


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/12896762
> 
> 
> And since the 960 does rescale, it might explain why I had second thoughts regarding a side by side video comparision between blueray and standard DVD demonstrated on a Sony 40" LCD. On smaller details the blue ray portion was indeed sharper than it's standard counterpart but at the same time small details on standard DVDs never appeared as blurry on my 960 as those on the video demonstration.
> 
> 
> While I am sure blueray does provide up to six times more resolution than standard DVDs, an asterick in its printed material does point out the amount of increased resolution depends upon the sources used for comparision. My hunch is the demonstration compared blueray against standard DVDs played at 480i and without use of an upconverting DVD player for flat screens or the rescaling process of a CRT ala the 960. I believe the disclaimer deals with the fact that upconversion, rescaling and quality digital remastering can increase the picture quality of standard DVDs, hence less difference. Also, a blueray disc would look better on a flagship model from a name brand than an inexpensive set (but that's a different story).
> 
> 
> Again, this is not meant to degrade the quality of Blue Ray but rather that there is less of a difference on the 960 when a good quality DVD is played on a quality progressive scan player.



Up conversion or not, SD DVD is all 480i. there is a big difference between some of the regular DVDs and the Super-Bit DVDs, however there is up to 6 times the data coming from a 1920x1080p image than a 720x480 image. Not all HD mastering is the same and some barely seem to achieve much more than a SD up-conversion.


----------



## PeterTHX




> Quote:
> Up conversion or not, SD DVD is all 480i.



Yes, but it has flags for 3:2


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GlenC* /forum/post/12925407
> 
> 
> Up conversion or not, SD DVD is all 480i. there is a big difference between some of the regular DVDs and the Super-Bit DVDs, however there is up to 6 times the data coming from a 1920x1080p image than a 720x480 image. Not all HD mastering is the same and some barely seem to achieve much more than a SD up-conversion.



Yes, and I've also seen the difference in depth, sharpness and color between some of the older James Bond DVDs and the newly digitally remastered ones (especially considering the Connery films are more than 40 years old).


Again, Blue Ray quality was superb on the demonstration I saw but the example Sony used for the difference between that and standard definition was definately not representative of what can be achieved with a top level mastered 480i DVD output at 480p (or upconverted to 1080i) on a 960 or equivalent flagship flat planel. The super-bit and Bond DVDs we cite are perfect examples why.


The exception is with live recordings. Opposed to filmed material, I agree that a 480i DVD, no matter how well it's mastered, upconverted or rescaled, cannot match the spectacular beauty of 1080i when it comes to operas, concerts, nature, etc.


----------



## ejthomp

I recently got a screaming deal on a 960N. $300 for TV, and matching stand and DVD player! It's gorgeous. I have one issue with it though.


I'm only running it via an OTA antenna and it is extremely slow to start up. I turn on the TV and have to wait over 5 minutes before the local digital channels show up. Once they do, the picture is awesome.


I had Dish Network set up when I first got the TV and that signal showed up on the TV immediately so I'm guessing it has something to do with the digital tuner start up.


Any ideas?


----------



## mjrtoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ejthomp* /forum/post/12932131
> 
> 
> I recently got a screaming deal on a 960N. $300 for TV, and matching stand and DVD player! It's gorgeous. I have one issue with it though.
> 
> 
> I'm only running it via an OTA antenna and it is extremely slow to start up. I turn on the TV and have to wait over 5 minutes before the local digital channels show up. Once they do, the picture is awesome.
> 
> 
> I had Dish Network set up when I first got the TV and that signal showed up on the TV immediately so I'm guessing it has something to do with the digital tuner start up.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?



Probably why you got it for 300.00 with all that stuff....


What does the screen look like when it's 'warming up'? Do the analog channels suffer the same delay?


----------



## ejthomp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjrtoo* /forum/post/12934060
> 
> 
> Probably why you got it for 300.00 with all that stuff....
> 
> 
> What does the screen look like when it's 'warming up'? Do the analog channels suffer the same delay?



The analog signal works immediately as do the video ports and it works immediately from the satellite or cable signal. It's obvious that the CRT is fine.


It just seems that the OTA digital tuner needs time to start up or to find the OTA signals for some unknown reason. When changing channels the screen just shows "Detecting Signal" then "No Signal". Then after 4-5 minutes, it starts working fine and you receive all the channels fine.


Picture is awesome. No complaints there.


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ejthomp* /forum/post/12948474
> 
> 
> The analog signal works immediately as do the video ports and it works immediately from the satellite or cable signal. It's obvious that the CRT is fine.
> 
> 
> It just seems that the OTA digital tuner needs time to start up or to find the OTA signals for some unknown reason. When changing channels the screen just shows "Detecting Signal" then "No Signal". Then after 4-5 minutes, it starts working fine and you receive all the channels fine.
> 
> 
> Picture is awesome. No complaints there.



You might want to read the beginning of this thread. I recall that first batch of xbr960s had a tuner issues.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ejthomp* /forum/post/12948474
> 
> 
> The analog signal works immediately as do the video ports and it works immediately from the satellite or cable signal. It's obvious that the CRT is fine.
> 
> 
> It just seems that the OTA digital tuner needs time to start up or to find the OTA signals for some unknown reason. When changing channels the screen just shows "Detecting Signal" then "No Signal". Then after 4-5 minutes, it starts working fine and you receive all the channels fine.
> 
> 
> Picture is awesome. No complaints there.



Please note if it's your intention to watch OTA signals while using twin view, the right side works only with non-digital sources. When OTA transmissions go digital we will no longer be able to watch two OTA programs at the same time. Those of us with split cable wires can use the 960's cable tuner to watch unscrambled stations via twin view.


Even though there might be an annoying tuner problem with some of the earlier sets, if you are using the video inputs most of the time as you know there will be nothing to be concerned about. Overall, it sounds like your 960 is in perfect working order and getting one with a stand for a mere $300 is even more awesome than its picture quality. I recently got my mother a 20 inch LCD (and non-HD to boot) for $380.


Congratulations on both the set and the deal!


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ejthomp* /forum/post/12932131
> 
> 
> I recently got a screaming deal on a 960N. $300 for TV, and matching stand and DVD player! It's gorgeous. I have one issue with it though.
> 
> 
> I'm only running it via an OTA antenna and it is extremely slow to start up. I turn on the TV and have to wait over 5 minutes before the local digital channels show up. Once they do, the picture is awesome.
> 
> 
> I had Dish Network set up when I first got the TV and that signal showed up on the TV immediately so I'm guessing it has something to do with the digital tuner start up.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?



A longshot, but have you re-programmed the set so it "knows" the OTA channels? (Sorry--I'm at work and don't remember what Sony calls that process.)


Mark


----------



## BeachComber

My November 2004 960 has developed the Sony Shadow Mask issue that had been a problem with their 34" and 40" tubes. Luckily I picked up the 5 year warranty.


Tweeter should be picking the set up this week to bring it back to the shop for repairs.


I am curious to see what their Insurance Peeps will say - as I clearly want it repaired. A longtime employee of Tweeter told me that Sony has a bad habit of making their circuit boards and tubes disappear quickly once a technology goes offline - and isn't sure that tubes would even be available.


So, has anyone had a 34" tube replaced anytime in the last 1, 3 or 6 months? I'm also curious as to how good the lines were with the replacement tube.


And, if they want to pay me off, I might consider it if someone has another 960/N in the SouthEast for a reasonable price that can send me a grid showing the lines are straight and no-convergence issues.


If you fall into that category, please PM me.


----------



## ejthomp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BTV Mark* /forum/post/12955927
> 
> 
> A longshot, but have you re-programmed the set so it "knows" the OTA channels? (Sorry--I'm at work and don't remember what Sony calls that process.)
> 
> 
> Mark



On Friday night I unplugged the set for a few minutes than reprogrammed the stations again.


Not sure why, but it worked! TV starts up perfect now.


Even the wife loves it now. Living with only ABC, NBC, CBS, FOX and PBS isn't so bad.....


----------



## keithb1

hi have a 34xbr960 for sale if anyone is interested in the central mass area for 450.00, great set, sorry no delivery send me a pm thanks


----------



## Caliko

How does the xbr960 compare to the samsung slimfit?? My slimfit went out (after about a year of owning it). I have a neighbor who's selling his for $400. The only thing that worries me is that he says he's had it for 3 years.


----------



## keithb1

not sure about the samsung but the xbr is and has been a real show stopper heres some specs please check the very first post of this thread


----------



## Caliko




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *keithb1* /forum/post/13012453
> 
> 
> not sure about the samsung but the xbr is and has been a real show stopper heres some specs please check the very first post of this thread



Yeah, I was just hoping to get some insight from people who've had experience with both TV's.


How does the 34xbr960 age? What problems arise in this set?? I'm asking cause my neighbor is selling his for $400 but has had it for 3 years! I've had experiences in the past where people sell me something but avoid the Real reason why the're selling their "loved" product.


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Caliko* /forum/post/13012899
> 
> 
> Yeah, I was just hoping to get some insight from people who've had experience with both TV's.
> 
> 
> How does the 34xbr960 age? What problems arise in this set?? I'm asking cause my neighbor is selling his for $400 but has had it for 3 years! I've had experiences in the past where people sell me something but avoid the Real reason why the're selling their "loved" product.



I own one now and hope that they can replace the CRT. Fortunately I have a 5 year warranty that I paid about $250 if memory is correct. The CRT probably costs around $1,500 plus install.


I would buy another one for $400 in a heartbeat providing a crosshatch showed the lines were straight (and quite frankly I am somewhat mad at myself for not buying another for $900 NIB when I knew were several were sitting 12 months ago.


----------



## WJonathan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Caliko* /forum/post/13012899
> 
> 
> Yeah, I was just hoping to get some insight from people who've had experience with both TV's.
> 
> 
> How does the 34xbr960 age? What problems arise in this set?? I'm asking cause my neighbor is selling his for $400 but has had it for 3 years! I've had experiences in the past where people sell me something but avoid the Real reason why the're selling their "loved" product.



Check the HDMI port, channel tuner, anti-glare coating, geometry as mentioned. Some people get rid of them simply to make room for the new flat panel. So if he has a new 50" plasma when you walk in, there's your answer as to "why".


----------



## Caliko




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/13013185
> 
> 
> I own one now and hope that they can replace the CRT. Fortunately I have a 5 year warranty that I paid about $250 if memory is correct. The CRT probably costs around $1,500 plus install.
> 
> 
> I would buy another one for $400 in a heartbeat providing a crosshatch showed the lines were straight (and quite frankly I am somewhat mad at myself for not buying another for $900 NIB when I knew were several were sitting 12 months ago.



Thanks. I heard about geometry issues but the xbr960 would be a lot better geometry wise than my old slimfit right? The geometry on the slimfits seem to be more noticable according to customer reviews. I just want to be sure I'm gettting an upgrade here, if not, then I'll pay the ~$400 the're asking to fix my slimfit.


----------



## Caliko




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WJonathan* /forum/post/13013240
> 
> 
> Check the HDMI port, channel tuner, anti-glare coating, geometry as mentioned. Some people get rid of them simply to make room for the new flat panel. So if he has a new 50" plasma when you walk in, there's your answer as to "why".



Thanks. How do I check the anti glare coating?

Can you improve the geometry through a service menu?? My understanding is that you can't "fix" the geometry, you can only improve it.


----------



## WJonathan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Caliko* /forum/post/13013868
> 
> 
> Thanks. I heard about geometry issues but the xbr960 would be a lot better geometry wise than my old slimfit right? The geometry on the slimfits seem to be more noticable according to customer reviews. I just want to be sure I'm gettting an upgrade here, if not, then I'll pay the ~$400 the're asking to fix my slimfit.



Should be a significant improvement over the Slimfit, yeah. All 16:9 HD CRTs have some trouble with geometry at the edges, though.



> Quote:
> Thanks. How do I check the anti glare coating?
> 
> Can you improve the geometry through a service menu?? My understanding is that you can't "fix" the geometry, you can only improve it.



Just make sure it isn't cracked or "rubbed out" like an old car's paint that's been polished too often. The coatings should only be cleaned with soap, water, and a cotton cloth, and people who use chemicals on them tend to burn up the coating.


The only geometry problem that's unfixable in the service menu is the bowing of horizontal lines at the left and right 1/4s of the screen. If it's severe, you might not want it. If it's not bad enough to bother you, then no problem.


----------



## Caliko




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WJonathan* /forum/post/13015131
> 
> 
> Should be a significant improvement over the Slimfit, yeah. All 16:9 HD CRTs have some trouble with geometry at the edges, though.
> 
> 
> Just make sure it isn't cracked or "rubbed out" like an old car's paint that's been polished too often. The coatings should only be cleaned with soap, water, and a cotton cloth, and people who use chemicals on them tend to burn up the coating.
> 
> 
> The only geometry problem that's unfixable in the service menu is the bowing of horizontal lines at the left and right 1/4s of the screen. If it's severe, you might not want it. If it's not bad enough to bother you, then no problem.



Thanks a lot for the heads up WJonathan.


As long as the geometry is better than my slimfit(It Drove Me Nuts!!!!) I'm ok with it.


I'll be sure to check the anti glare screen for sure.

Chemicals?? Is Monster Clean bad?? That's what I've been using. Should I stop using it?


----------



## PimpUigi

I thought I'd post that I just got my XBR960


I play a ton of video games, and mainly old school games at that.


Games on older systems look really (like Sega Genesis, NES, etc.) look really bad until you go into the service menu, search for an entry called "TRAP" and change the value to 1.


It doesn't seem to affect 480p and up, only 480i.

It makes the games look how they should look, instead of looking weird and inaccurate.


Anyone who games on old systems should know this IMO.


----------



## DJF(NJ)




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PimpUigi* /forum/post/13022962
> 
> 
> I thought I'd post that I just got my XBR960
> 
> 
> I play a ton of video games, and mainly old school games at that.
> 
> 
> Games on older systems look really (like Sega Genesis, NES, etc.) look really bad until you go into the service menu, search for an entry called "TRAP" and change the value to 1.
> 
> 
> It doesn't seem to affect 480p and up, only 480i.
> 
> It makes the games look how they should look, instead of looking weird and inaccurate.
> 
> 
> Anyone who games on old systems should know this IMO.



Yes, your right. I've mentioned this here and other threads as well. I've had this set since 08/2004 and have over 20 game systems dating back to the SMS. And the 2D sprite based games looked better on my old Sony 20" and newer 24" SD CRTS. 480p rendered games on PS2 and Xbox look better on this set though. Now, I only play PS3 and 360 on this set.


----------



## ohcello

Looking for a 960 in the NY/Long Island area


----------



## rb01c5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *keithb1* /forum/post/12994324
> 
> 
> hi have a 34xbr960 for sale if anyone is interested in the central mass area for 450.00, great set, sorry no delivery send me a pm thanks



Hi -sent you a PM. What town are you in? Take care, Dick B


----------



## Caliko




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PimpUigi* /forum/post/13022962
> 
> 
> I thought I'd post that I just got my XBR960
> 
> 
> I play a ton of video games, and mainly old school games at that.
> 
> 
> Games on older systems look really (like Sega Genesis, NES, etc.) look really bad until you go into the service menu, search for an entry called "TRAP" and change the value to 1.
> 
> 
> It doesn't seem to affect 480p and up, only 480i.
> 
> It makes the games look how they should look, instead of looking weird and inaccurate.
> 
> 
> Anyone who games on old systems should know this IMO.



How would the XBR960 handle the Nintendo Wii's 480p resolution over component cables? I really need to know since I should be getting my XBR960 set tomorrow and it will be used for the Wii %50 of the time.


I will be having a Smash Bros. Brawl party on the day of its launch and I would really want to know how the set handles the Wii.

Any suggestions? Service menu settings or user menu recommendations??


THANKS A LOT!! IN ADVANCE!!


----------



## PimpUigi

It should look awesome.


The GameCube's 480p looks awesome.

And Melee looks great over component cables with 480p.


I'm so not looking forward to brawl.

They nerfed that game so much. Nintendo loves noobies.

Such a shame.


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Caliko* /forum/post/13028865
> 
> 
> How would the XBR960 handle the Nintendo Wii's 480p resolution over component cables? I really need to know since I should be getting my XBR960 set tomorrow and it will be used for the Wii %50 of the time.
> 
> 
> I will be having a Smash Bros. Brawl party on the day of its launch and I would really want to know how the set handles the Wii.
> 
> Any suggestions? Service menu settings or user menu recommendations??
> 
> 
> THANKS A LOT!! IN ADVANCE!!



Wii looks great on XBR960 via component cables. Last game I played through was Mario Galaxy and it looked awesome. user menu settings depends on user preference really.. The only thing I might suggest is try setting the ClearEdge VM setting to Low for a slight boost in sharpness. also in Wii options be sure to change the aspect to 16:9 and finally on the TV itself set the screen mode to "Full".


----------



## BeachComber

fwiw, Tweeter picked up my 960 to replace the CRT today. I spoke with the Service Manager for the state I am in and he says that Sony still does have the CRTs available from NJ, which is good to hear parts are still available out there.


----------



## georgegreer

I found a way to download YouTube and other videos from the web and watch them on a Memory Stick on the Sony 34XBR960 (almost 2 years old, and only problem is very subtle horizontal geometry distortion, ONLY ON NON-1080i VIDEO; 1080i is perfectly stunning).


First download the flash .flv file with RealPlayer (free version), or any other flash/.flv downloader. I like RealPlayer because a pop-up tab appears anytime I'm watching a video asking if I want to download it at the same time, and to goes into the RealPlayer video download directory.


Then I load the file in the Youtube Video Download Tool from http://www.effectmatrix.com/Youtube_...download_tool/ . It costs just a little after the 14-day trial (I am not associated with this company). It will also download videos, but names them by their url, which is not very useful as YouTube urls are just random characters, whereas RealPlayer uses the title as the filename.


Before converting, under Advance Setting select Change Format and then Mpeg on the far right of the Meg row. This converts to MPEG1, which is the format the 960 needs. Then Set Default Format to keep it that way. You can also click on Format Setting to tweak it for better quality, etc., but I haven't tried. The YouTube videos I downloaded are only ~325 kbps, which is very low quality.


To do the conversion, click on Convert FLV to video, then click on New Task and select the .flv file for conversion. Then click on Convert Now on the right side of the screen. It puts the .mpg files in C:\\Y.D.T\\Converted.


Then copy the mpg file(s) to a Memory Stick. I just bought a SanDisk 1GB Ultra II Memory Stick Pro Duo online for a small price. There's a regular, slower Pro Duo should be fine playing on the 960, but slower copying files to it from your PC.


For videos that are in several parts (like the recent presidential debates), name the mpeg files alphabetically, a, b, c, etc. Then play them on the 960 as a slide show, in sequence of name with a fast speed and no transition, and they will play in order. It's only about a 1 foot frame, but it looks and sounds fine. You can enlarge it, but video quality for YouTube full screen is pretty bad. Sound is fine.


I tried a couple of other .flv converters, but they didn't work on the 960; either no sound or the sound is a few minutes ahead of the video. The same company has another program, but I haven't tried it: http://http://www.effectmatrix.com/t...rter/index.htm .


Also, if you haven't yet looked at digital .jpg photos with a Memory Stick on the 960, they are fabulous quality. If I'm not going to print the photos, I take them at a 1920X1080 resolution or higher to get HD resolution, as higher resolution makes no difference.


----------



## Yoda1

I have an XBR 960 available in the Toms River, NJ area. Calibrated by ChadB. Absolutely mint TV. PM me if you are interested.


----------



## smileypop

I'm looking for an Xbr960 to buy in the North Texas region. If anyone has one to sell please pm me.


----------



## JayPSU

I'm searching for this television if anyone has one they would like to sell. Would prefer to find one somewhere in Ohio as I live in the Columbus, Ohio area. But also interested if one is available in the Philadelphia area as I have family in Chadds Ford, PA.


----------



## SFBarry75

I bought my KD-34XBR960 in July 2005, and recently I noticed that it would stop responding to certain commands from the remote control. I couldn't change the channel (not a big deal since I use a cable box rather than the built-in tuner), nor could I access the on-screen menu to adjust the display settings.


When I performed a "factory reset" per the instruction manual, the problem got worse. Now, every time I turn on the TV, I'm forced to go through the initial setup routine: choosing language, horizontal+vertical tilt correction, channel setup, etc.


It's obvious some internal electronic component is fried. Anyone ever have the same problem? Can someone give me a ballpark estimate on how much it would cost to fix this? If it's a couple hundred bucks, that's fine, but if I have to pay a grand for a new processor module or something, then I'd rather just buy a new TV.


----------



## BeachComber

fwiw, my "fixed" XBR960 with a new CRT came back several days ago - and the new CRT direct from Sony's warehouse in NJ was bad - in fact it was much worse off than the bad tube it was replacing










It seems getting a good replacement tube is more of a gamble than what people went through when the sets were new - though some were unrealistic to think they would be perfect out of the box.


----------



## S. Hiller




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/13169219
> 
> 
> fwiw, my "fixed" XBR960 with a new CRT came back several days ago - and the new CRT direct from Sony's warehouse in NJ was bad - in fact it was much worse off than the bad tube it was replacing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It seems getting a good replacement tube is more of a gamble than what people went through when the sets were new - though some were unrealistic to think they would be perfect out of the box.



A new CRT at this point seems like it would be quite a coup. How was it bad? (Any chance they didn't bother to give it a factory calibration or made some other such error?)


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *S. Hiller* /forum/post/13172711
> 
> 
> A new CRT at this point seems like it would be quite a coup. How was it bad? (Any chance they didn't bother to give it a factory calibration or made some other such error?)



Nope. Right side of screen is red. Yoke isn't in right and lines totally out of whack - no way to adjust in the direction they are out.


On top of that, its being overdriven and anything over 90 IRE causes bad breakup.


There is also a large blue line running across horizontal about 1/3 of the way up when you put up color bars. Tech has never ever seen anything like it before.


----------



## RookPSU

I have a 960 in Philadelphia that I need to get rid of. I'm moving and it simply won't fit. It's 2 years old, a few scratches on the top from the one time it was moved - at ~180lbs it clearly doesn't move much at all - and suffers from a faulty HDMI input that was unfortunately defective from the get go. I've always used the component inputs so it was never an issue for me.


I'd bought it brand new from CC 2 years ago. I'd like to sell it for $500. I'll throw in the Avia and DVE calibration discs as well.


PM or email if interested.

[email protected]


----------



## Joseph Dubin

If anyone is interested, I was able to go into the service menu and adjust the horizontal size and SLIN for wide zoom which now maintains the center of the picture more proportional to its normal size without affecting the adjustments for the full and zoom modes. The only difference is that the longer stretch begins a little bit further from the sides but not noticable enough to distort the picture.


My settings are: HSIZ - 14, SLIN -46. Anything more causes some of the black borders to petrude onto the screen.


----------



## CCMOO

It breaks my heart, but I'm putting my 960 up for sale. It's just more than a year old, and it's everything it was supposed to be - amazing PQ and all - and has never given me any problems at all. But my family is moving into a significantly smaller house, and this big boy is too big for the TV room. I'm in Charlotte. I paid $1,100 for it, so I'd want something reasonably close. Still under warranty, of course.


Make me an offer. I have AVIA discs that you can have, too.

[email protected]


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CCMOO* /forum/post/13266619
> 
> 
> this big boy is too big for the TV room.



People usually complain about the 960 being the opposite - too small for their TV rooms!


Sorry you have to give it up.


----------



## CCMOO

Thanks. I had a friend over this weekend who has an LCD, and he marveled at how much richer the PQ is on the 960.


The thing is, if I can only get $600 for it, my wife might balk at how much money I'm losing. If it's $700, she'll urge me to sell.


----------



## inter8d

What's up guys? My first post here!!!


Just got a flawless 960 a few days ago. Came with the stand. I upgraded from the 955 that went to my girlfriend. I was hoping that the 960 was a recent enough batch that the ghosting issue wouldn't be present. Unfortunately, it's no different than the 955. So it brings the question: Was there eventually a run of tubes that had the phosphor issue corrected? Also, I'm aware of the geometry issues. But is it possible to to have a tech make it perfect? A magnet massage, perhaps?










A friend is going to swing by with a HDCAM SR deck and his company's test tape. We'll be hooking it up via component and feeding the signal to a Graseby 9400. Service menu tweaking should give us 709 accuracy. Can any tech give me an idea of how close they've gotten the 960? Is it better to calibrate the analog inputs to 601 and the HD to 709?


Lastly, I'm not a major audio buff. And as silly as the motivation might've been, one of the reasons I got the 960 was that a user posted that it had two-way speakers (over the 955's one-way). The service manual states the 955 speakers as model # 1-825-841-11. Can anyone confirm that the 960 uses a different model, please? I guess it doesn't make a big deal. Just a curiosity.


FWIW: Short of a Unity Motion set that I once owned (sold to a post production house), the 960 is, hands down, the finest CRT I've ever laid eyes on. The UM would scan native 720P. But it was a 30" screen. The processor in the 960 is quite adequate for viewing. But I'd love to hear some feedback from users that have mated it to an outboard unit.


Thanks all!!! I look forward to hearing back










Mike V. (Burbank, CA)


----------



## BeachComber

The 960 has 3 speakers.


Technically, the 960's Speaker Box (Woofer) is a complete assembly of 3 parts including a top and bottom of the Speaker Box, but the Woofer is a 1-544-952-12. The single woofer handles both channels. As Bass in non-directional, its really not an issue.


The other speakers on the left and right side of the set is a 5.2cm tweeter 1-825-511-11.


As for how much geometry on the tube can be corrected, it comes down to each individual tube - as well as any issues with the aperture mask.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CCMOO* /forum/post/13280363
> 
> 
> Thanks. I had a friend over this weekend who has an LCD, and he marveled at how much richer the PQ is on the 960.



It's always good to know that although manufacturing ceased over two years owners of other sets are still awed when they see the picture quality on the 960.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/13287511
> 
> 
> As for how much geometry on the tube can be corrected, it comes down to each individual tube - as well as any issues with the aperture mask.



I guess I'm fortunate not to have encountered any serious geometric issues that couldn't be resolved on my own. Except for the very extreme upper left-hand corrner, the vertical and horizontal lines on HD convergence test patterns always appeared straight from side to side and top to bottom. T


However, the horizontal and vertical were improperly set which caused the picture to protrude outside the safety area; after decreasing the HSIZ and top and lower vertical adjustments in the service menu, additional adjustment of the SLIN was required in order to retain proper proportion of the horizontal stretch.


My 960 was manufactured in May, 2005 so perhaps the problem was resolved by that time.


----------



## mrdbdigital

I have a couple of issues with my approximately one year old 960 that I could use some advice on.


Issue #1: The set does not find any ATSC stations when it does the digital scan on the VHF/UHF input. I previously had the set equipped with a cable card, and at that time it worked flawlessly with both the digital cable channels and the over the air digital channels. After removing the cable card, the set would pick up the unencrypted digital cable channels, and still picked up the digital over the air stations with an outside antenna. At this point I moved to another location with only over the air reception and now the set won't find any digital over the air stations, although all the other digital sets in the house find at least 4 ATSC stations on the same feed. Any thoughts? (It does find all the analog stations)


Issue #2: For a while now, (starting before the move) the set will go black for a few seconds and then the picture would come back on with the on screen menus displayed as happens when you change channels. It does this about once an hour.


Any thoughts on these two issues?


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrdbdigital* /forum/post/13289609
> 
> 
> I have a couple of issues with my approximately one year old 960 that I could use some advice on.
> 
> 
> Issue #1: The set does not find any ATSC stations when it does the digital scan on the VHF/UHF input. I previously had the set equipped with a cable card, and at that time it worked flawlessly with both the digital cable channels and the over the air digital channels. After removing the cable card, the set would pick up the unencrypted digital cable channels, and still picked up the digital over the air stations with an outside antenna. At this point I moved to another location with only over the air reception and now the set won't find any digital over the air stations, although all the other digital sets in the house find at least 4 ATSC stations on the same feed. Any thoughts? (It does find all the analog stations)
> 
> 
> Issue #2: For a while now, (starting before the move) the set will go black for a few seconds and then the picture would come back on with the on screen menus displayed as happens when you change channels. It does this about once an hour.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts on these two issues?



Wild Guesses -but its a start.


#1 are you absolutely sure that another TV will receive an ATSC signal at the drop in the other room where you moved your TV? Also, I see you are a Television Engineer but I have to ask if you are 100% sure that you have the OTA antenna connected to the UHF/VHF connector and not the cable connector.


#2 If memory serves correctly, there were some power supply issues for people along the way - and you might be dropping low enough that the set is effectively turning itself off and back on again - thus you get the OSD.


----------



## inter8d




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/13287511
> 
> 
> The 960 has 3 speakers.
> 
> 
> The other speakers on the left and right side of the set is a 5.2cm tweeter 1-825-511-11.
> 
> 
> As for how much geometry on the tube can be corrected, it comes down to each individual tube - as well as any issues with the aperture mask.



Ahh. So the difference in model numbers leads me to believe that the left and right speakers are two-way. That's good. And thanks!


As someone else posted about their tube manufacture date, I also read that tubes made after a later date had the phosphor issue corrected. So that would be the benchmark/goal. It would be nice to have a certain manufacture date that we could aim for. Movement in high contrast scenes is VERY distracting.


Again, the question about 601 for analog and 709 for SD/HD remains. The Graseby will allow for RGB tuning for both blacks and whites. Does anyone know if the 960 has separate color matrices for analog/digital? And if so, what they are?


----------



## inter8d




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrdbdigital* /forum/post/13289609
> 
> 
> I have a couple of issues with my approximately one year old 960 that I could use some advice on.
> 
> 
> Issue #1: The set does not find any ATSC stations when it does the digital scan on the VHF/UHF input. I previously had the set equipped with a cable card, and at that time it worked flawlessly with both the digital cable channels and the over the air digital channels. After removing the cable card, the set would pick up the unencrypted digital cable channels, and still picked up the digital over the air stations with an outside antenna. At this point I moved to another location with only over the air reception and now the set won't find any digital over the air stations, although all the other digital sets in the house find at least 4 ATSC stations on the same feed. Any thoughts? (It does find all the analog stations)
> 
> 
> Issue #2: For a while now, (starting before the move) the set will go black for a few seconds and then the picture would come back on with the on screen menus displayed as happens when you change channels. It does this about once an hour.



Issue #1: My first guess would've been that inserting the cable card might've made a service menu change. But removing it, provided that QAM and OTA channels remained, shouldn't have made a change back. As a precaution, I'd reference the service menu and double-check your settings. And as another guy posted, double-check your inputs. Lastly, just to make sure your digital signals aren't being attenuated at that particular output, I'd hook up another one of your tv's to that output. If it's able to tune in the signal, the issue would obviously be with the 960's tuner.


Issue #2: I don't have firsthand experience with the power supply. But that would sound like a reasonable explanation. The other thing to consider is how tolerant the power supply is to voltage fluctuations. To be thorough, I'd invest in a regulator/conditioner, even if it's to test for a few days and then return. If the tv still acts up with that, then something is failing.


Best of luck to you. And I hope the situation is resolved as inexpensively as possible


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *inter8d* /forum/post/13297305
> 
> 
> Issue #2: I don't have firsthand experience with the power supply. But that would sound like a reasonable explanation. The other thing to consider is how tolerant the power supply is to voltage fluctuations. To be thorough, I'd invest in a regulator/conditioner, even if it's to test for a few days and then return. If the tv still acts up with that, then something is failing.



The TV takes a big surge on power up to degauss the screen - and unless you have a hefty regulator/conditioner, you are asking for trouble.


----------



## CCMOO

Hi all,


I posted last week about a 960 for sale. After digging through paperwork, I realized it's actually 24 months old - a little older than I first thought. That means the warranty is expiring, which probably means I can't get as much as I wanted. So the $650 range seems about right.


Here's the original post:


It breaks my heart, but I'm putting my 960 up for sale. It's just more than a year old, and it's everything it was supposed to be - amazing PQ and all - and has never given me any problems at all. But my family is moving into a significantly smaller house, and this big boy is too big for the TV room. I'm in Charlotte. I paid $1,100 for it, so I'd want something reasonably close. Still under warranty, of course.


Make me an offer. I have AVIA discs that you can have, too.

[email protected]


----------



## jhirsche

Anyone called Sony and gotten the extended warranty price breakout lately? I'll be calling today to find out, and post my results. I understand the quotes sometimes vary just based on which CSR you ask.... can anyone confirm this?


----------



## mrdbdigital




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *inter8d* /forum/post/13297305
> 
> 
> Issue #1: My first guess would've been that inserting the cable card might've made a service menu change. But removing it, provided that QAM and OTA channels remained, shouldn't have made a change back. As a precaution, I'd reference the service menu and double-check your settings. And as another guy posted, double-check your inputs. Lastly, just to make sure your digital signals aren't being attenuated at that particular output, I'd hook up another one of your tv's to that output. If it's able to tune in the signal, the issue would obviously be with the 960's tuner.
> 
> 
> Issue #2: I don't have firsthand experience with the power supply. But that would sound like a reasonable explanation. The other thing to consider is how tolerant the power supply is to voltage fluctuations. To be thorough, I'd invest in a regulator/conditioner, even if it's to test for a few days and then return. If the tv still acts up with that, then something is failing.
> 
> 
> Best of luck to you. And I hope the situation is resolved as inexpensively as possible



I have the service manual, but I have to find it after moving. I wondered if it could be something like this, as when I enter a channel number I know is digital, you can see the digital data on the screen, but the diagnostics show the tuner is in QAM mode. I think the tuner is locked in QAM mode, or the processor is telling it the wrong code, which should hopefully be fixable in the service manual.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/13296615
> 
> 
> Wild Guesses -but its a start.
> 
> 
> #1 are you absolutely sure that another TV will receive an ATSC signal at the drop in the other room where you moved your TV? Also, I see you are a Television Engineer but I have to ask if you are 100% sure that you have the OTA antenna connected to the UHF/VHF connector and not the cable connector.
> 
> 
> #2 If memory serves correctly, there were some power supply issues for people along the way - and you might be dropping low enough that the set is effectively turning itself off and back on again - thus you get the OSD.



My Philips DVR (3575) works on the same cable as the TV, and receives all the ATSC channels available here. And I am using the right antenna connector. That was the first thing I checked.


I'll start a search for the service manual in my packed stuff so I can check the service codes.


As for the other issue, the set is not turning off, it just goes black on the screen for a couple of seconds. It does not degauss when the picture comes back on. It is just like you switched the video inputs, except it takes a couple of seconds.


I haven't looked into looking inside the set. Has anyone taken the back off one of these monsters? Will the back come off with the TV sitting on its' base?


Thanks, guys, for all the ideas!


db


----------



## inter8d




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/13297389
> 
> 
> The TV takes a big surge on power up to degauss the screen - and unless you have a hefty regulator/conditioner, you are asking for trouble.



Anything between $200-300 should be able to handle the draw that that tv would require. The most you can pull from a wall is 15amps/1,650watts rms, yes? I'd be interested, if anyone had an amp meter that they could clamp over the power cable to watch for a spike.


Anyway, the point would be to give it as rock steady a power source as possible. We just want to narrow down the possibilities.


If I were betting, though, I'd put my money on the tv's power supply going bad.


----------



## inter8d




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrdbdigital* /forum/post/13303046
> 
> 
> I have the service manual, but I have to find it after moving. I wondered if it could be something like this, as when I enter a channel number I know is digital, you can see the digital data on the screen, but the diagnostics show the tuner is in QAM mode. I think the tuner is locked in QAM mode, or the processor is telling it the wrong code, which should hopefully be fixable in the service manual.
> 
> 
> db



If you want to drop me a line, I can e-mail you the pertinent stuff... [email protected] ...


Cheers.


----------



## oC|-TiTaN

Anyone have a 960 in or near central Illinois or willing to ship? I'm willing to pay any and all shipping fees.


----------



## Sonyboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oC|-TiTaN* /forum/post/13306967
> 
> 
> Anyone have a 960 in or near central Illinois or willing to ship? I'm willing to pay any and all shipping fees.



I've got one in St.Louis Mo. In excellent shape almost two years old, I had it ISF calibrated the middle of last summer. I'm selling for 700 with the matching stand. It is currently shrink wrapped because I recently purchased a 50 inch SXRD set. PM me if interested. I am only willing to sell as a pick up only deal.


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *inter8d* /forum/post/13304821
> 
> 
> Anything between $200-300 should be able to handle the draw that that tv would require. The most you can pull from a wall is 15amps/1,650watts rms, yes? I'd be interested, if anyone had an amp meter that they could clamp over the power cable to watch for a spike.
> 
> 
> Anyway, the point would be to give it as rock steady a power source as possible. We just want to narrow down the possibilities.
> 
> 
> If I were betting, though, I'd put my money on the tv's power supply going bad.



Years ago I originally purchased a $300+ APC UPS specifically for the unitand no it will not handle it. I only solved the problem by putting it on an APC SU/SUA2200XL and that is not a $200-$300 UPS.


In fact, this thread is littered with posts from people that had the unit on a UPS and thought it was working properly (as the set came on) but it was causing an issue as the screen degauss was not working properly and the current was limited.


And do you really think that a $200 - $300 UPS could handle 1,650 watts?


----------



## inter8d




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/13310755
> 
> 
> Years ago I originally purchased a $300+ APC UPS specifically for the unitand no it will not handle it. I only solved the problem by putting it on an APC SU/SUA2200XL and that is not a $200-$300 UPS.
> 
> 
> In fact, this thread is littered with posts from people that had the unit on a UPS and thought it was working properly (as the set came on) but it was causing an issue as the screen degauss was not working properly and the current was limited.
> 
> 
> And do you really think that a $200 - $300 UPS could handle 1,650 watts?



I'm sorry. I thought we were talking about regulators/conditioners. I don't have much experience with UPS's. The closest I can come to one of those is what's inside my Macbook Pro. But yes, I do think a $200-300 regulator/conditioner can easily handle the draw from the 960, even on power-up.


----------



## BeachComber

Are you familar with the word brownout?


There is a reason Sony recommends not using a power conditioner on this set, but to each his (or her) own.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

With all the talk about geometry issues I thought there was a little bowing on the upper left hand corner of my set which, as it turns out, was more CNN HD's graphics since the horizontal/vertical grid stored on our DVR was fine. I did notice needing slight upper and lower vertical adjustments to be more within the "5% safe action" so I went into the service menu and slightly reduced the vertical top and bottom from 0 to 1.


Now there seems to be a very slight bowing on the extreme upper left portion (noticable mostly on the black bar on pictures beyond the 16:9 aspect ratio) which I don't recall being there before. The bottom is perfectly straight across. Did try adjusting the two vertical linears but they were fine as is.


Thanks to others in this forum I was able to download the picture adjustments (page 42) of the service manual for the full-mode and will go through items in the order according to the instructions. Some are simple but was wondering if anyone had suggestions on settings for all items or specifically:


VLIN

VSCO

HTPZ

PIN

PPHA

VANG

KABG

VBOW

LBOW


Thanks in advance,


Joe


UPDATE:


Wow, the AVS Forum is great! Found the service manual and was easily able to get back the proper geometry following the instructions for items under 2170D-1 and 2.

The test patterns again look fine and there is no bowing of the black bars on aspect ratios above 16x0. Next time I won't jump to conclusions based upon what I see on CNN.


My thanks to KENTECH for starting a great thread and to all those with subsequent posts.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrdbdigital* /forum/post/13289609
> 
> 
> I have a couple of issues with my approximately one year old 960 that I could use some advice on.
> 
> 
> Issue #1: The set does not find any ATSC stations when it does the digital scan on the VHF/UHF input. I previously had the set equipped with a cable card, and at that time it worked flawlessly with both the digital cable channels and the over the air digital channels. After removing the cable card, the set would pick up the unencrypted digital cable channels, and still picked up the digital over the air stations with an outside antenna. At this point I moved to another location with only over the air reception and now the set won't find any digital over the air stations, although all the other digital sets in the house find at least 4 ATSC stations on the same feed. Any thoughts? (It does find all the analog stations)



While a very excellent TV, the 960 has an early "chipset" in it's tuner. That vintage is not as sensitive as the current chipsets. (You can go to the diagnostic menu and actually read the signal-to-noise ratio in decibels.) On my set, I need to consistently see better than 23 dB s/n or the picture drops out. I live in one of the close-in suburbs of Chicago, and I need a pretty good-sized outdoor antenna to consistently "hold" a digital signal. So the low sensitivity of the '960 could be your problem.


Mark


----------



## inter8d




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/13315329
> 
> 
> Are you familar with the word brownout?



Except for the one in my head, when I read your posts, no










---Taken from Star Trek VI, if anyone can remember the exact lines







---


First, you tell me that I'd need a pretty big regulator/conditioner to handle the 960, on start up and degauss.


Then you tell me about your $1,000 UPS which does, unless I'm mistaken, the exact same thing. And let's be frank, unless your battery somehow stores and reproduces the changes in voltage and frequency, it does.


Then you throw voltages sags, i.e. brownouts, into the equation, which, precisely, are what regulators/conditioners are supposed to balance.


Finally, you state that Sony recommends against using such things on the 960 at all.


So it leads one to ask, why would you spend $1000 on something that Sony recommends against? So you can watch tv for an extra 8 minutes?


If anything, I've learned that the already-shaky power supply in the 960 is quite susceptible to voltage fluctuations. So, please, get technical with me. Tell me why my logic is wrong. And please quit with the little insults. I keep a bag full of em', right by my side, for situations like this.


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *inter8d* /forum/post/13320692
> 
> 
> Except for the one in my head, when I read your posts, no
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---Taken from Star Trek VI, if anyone can remember the exact lines
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---
> 
> 
> First, you tell me that I'd need a pretty big regulator/conditioner to handle the 960, on start up and degauss.
> 
> 
> Then you tell me about your $1,000 UPS which does, unless I'm mistaken, the exact same thing. And let's be frank, unless your battery somehow stores and reproduces the changes in voltage and frequency, it does.
> 
> 
> Then you throw voltages sags, i.e. brownouts, into the equation, which, precisely, are what regulators/conditioners are supposed to balance.
> 
> 
> Finally, you state that Sony recommends against using such things on the 960 at all.
> 
> 
> So it leads one to ask, why would you spend $1000 on something that Sony recommends against? So you can watch tv for an extra 8 minutes?
> 
> 
> If anything, I've learned that the already-shaky power supply in the 960 is quite susceptible to voltage fluctuations. So, please, get technical with me. Tell me why my logic is wrong. And please quit with the little insults. I keep a bag full of em', right by my side, for situations like this.



First I have a Tice Power Block and Tice Titan feeding the unit - a 20 year old pair whose technology that was 30 years ahead of its time. It was used with the best amplifiers money could buy 20 years ago, but it had an unexpected benefit very few thought of then - it did wonders for video.


Then on the back side of that I have an APC 2200XL (actually 5 on different circuits) and multiple UXBP48s that will keep me going for roughly 8 hours without power.....so much for your 8 minutes.


A conditioner/regulator made for a pc laptop or workstation does not have the response and amperage needed for a 34" CRT - especially for the degauss and startup. Furthermore, it cannot deliver amperage it does not have without some other source (such as the UPS or Tice Titan in my case).


Again, you go search the threads for the issues using $200-$300 voltage regulators and power supplies, but your $200 - $300 voltage regulator, the kind that Sony assumes everyone like yourself will use with this set, is not recommended for the reasons stated.


----------



## colowxguy

I've had a 960N since July 2006. Got it as an open-box for $699; I think it was a display model for awhile. Typically the picture is stunning, but a fair amount of the time the screen seems to be "vibrating" and will switch rapidly back and forth from a reddish cast to the regular color table. This seems to happen most often during the first 30 minutes or so after I've started watching (I typically watch about 60 minutes a day and always turn the set off). It happens equally often when I'm watching STD and HD (HDMI cable) as well as DVDs (component cable), so I'm assuming this isn't a problem with the input cables. Sometimes it'll lock into the reddish cast, but when I rustle the cables around I can usually get the color back to where it should be, but it doesn't always stay there.


My warranty expires in July, so I'm thinking I should get serious about fixing this problem. Any suggestions? If this has come up in a previous post, please feel free to route me there (I skimmed some but not all of the forum pages). Overall I LOVE this TV, but the spastic screen is really starting to bug me.


Thanks much!


--Bob


----------



## inter8d




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/13324764
> 
> 
> First I have a Tice Power Block and Tice Titan feeding the unit - a 20 year old pair whose technology that was 30 years ahead of its time. It was used with the best amplifiers money could buy 20 years ago, but it had an unexpected benefit very few thought of then - it did wonders for video.
> 
> 
> Then on the back side of that I have an APC 2200XL (actually 5 on different circuits) and multiple UXBP48s that will keep me going for roughly 8 hours without power.....so much for your 8 minutes.
> 
> 
> A conditioner/regulator made for a pc laptop or workstation does not have the response and amperage needed for a 34" CRT - especially for the degauss and startup. Furthermore, it cannot deliver amperage it does not have without some other source (such as the UPS or Tice Titan in my case).
> 
> 
> Again, you go search the threads for the issues using $200-$300 voltage regulators and power supplies, but your $200 - $300 voltage regulator, the kind that Sony assumes everyone like yourself will use with this set, is not recommended for the reasons stated.



Finally, some meat... This is the type of post that helps us figure things out.


So knowing that you have the gear that will support the tv, do you know how many watts it draws on startup? When it's up and on, the specs say it draws 270 watts. Despite the luxuries that the PB offers, I still fail to see how a 'regular' conditioner/regulator that's capable of a steady 1500 watts is unsuitable.


If response, then, is the issue, for the startup, then I'm guessing a Titan -or any comparable capacitor- would be suitable.


Again, I think this is all a moot point, anyway. I've been trying to stress that mrdb's issue lies in the tv's power supply.


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *colowxguy* /forum/post/13332224
> 
> 
> I've had a 960N since July 2006. Got it as an open-box for $699; I think it was a display model for awhile. Typically the picture is stunning, but a fair amount of the time the screen seems to be "vibrating" and will switch rapidly back and forth from a reddish cast to the regular color table. This seems to happen most often during the first 30 minutes or so after I've started watching (I typically watch about 60 minutes a day and always turn the set off). It happens equally often when I'm watching STD and HD (HDMI cable) as well as DVDs (component cable), so I'm assuming this isn't a problem with the input cables. Sometimes it'll lock into the reddish cast, but when I rustle the cables around I can usually get the color back to where it should be, but it doesn't always stay there.
> 
> 
> My warranty expires in July, so I'm thinking I should get serious about fixing this problem. Any suggestions? If this has come up in a previous post, please feel free to route me there (I skimmed some but not all of the forum pages). Overall I LOVE this TV, but the spastic screen is really starting to bug me.
> 
> 
> Thanks much!
> 
> 
> --Bob



Except for the single line "Sometimes it'll lock into the reddish cast, but when I rustle the cables around I can usually get the color back to where it should be", everything else points to your Apeture Grill is failing. Its a ringing effect. You can most likely reproduce it by giving the screen a good knock and see the effect. A good bass note from the woofer will supply the same effect and that is what triggers what you are seeing in most cases.


Most likely you are seeing it in the lower left about 3 inches from the bottom of the screen and the upper right corner - although sometimes it can be seen in the on the mid to lower right side as well.


If this is in case the issue, you need the CRT replaced.


This is a fairly common problem with the larger Sony CRT tubes.


----------



## colowxguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/13335367
> 
> 
> Except for the single line "Sometimes it'll lock into the reddish cast, but when I rustle the cables around I can usually get the color back to where it should be", everything else points to your Apeture Grill is failing. Its a ringing effect. You can most likely reproduce it by giving the screen a good knock and see the effect. A good bass note from the woofer will supply the same effect and that is what triggers what you are seeing in most cases.
> 
> 
> Most likely you are seeing it in the lower left about 3 inches from the bottom of the screen and the upper right corner - although sometimes it can be seen in the on the mid to lower right side as well.
> 
> 
> If this is in case the issue, you need the CRT replaced.
> 
> 
> This is a fairly common problem with the larger Sony CRT tubes.



In my case, it's actually the whole screen that's involved. Everything takes on this reddish cast, as if some of the colors are getting left out. It'll snap back and forth for a few seconds, or even several minutes, and then (usually) settle down.


----------



## colowxguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/13335367
> 
> 
> A good bass note from the woofer will supply the same effect and that is what triggers what you are seeing in most cases.



Adding to the mystery, I'm in a condo with thin walls, so I've got the subwoofer completely turned down.


----------



## pel1300

How does this CRT compare to the Sony 40XBR4 LCD????


or the Samsung LN-T4071F LCD????


I just got the Samsung 71f and to me it looks incredible running Ratatouille bluray right now...but it will bother me if I know that I paid $1600 for a TV that has inferior picture quality to an HDTV made 4 years ago....


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pel1300* /forum/post/13335475
> 
> 
> How does this CRT compare to the Sony 40XBR4 LCD????
> 
> 
> or the Samsung LN-T4071F LCD????
> 
> 
> I just got the Samsung 71f and to me it looks incredible running Ratatouille bluray right now...but it will bother me if I know that I paid $1600 for a TV that has inferior picture quality to an HDTV made 4 years ago....



Define Picture quality.


They compare like apples and oranges, apples and oranges are similar in shape....... The 34XBR is smaller and they both display video, they are both 16:9 format, both accept HDMI HD ...........


----------



## pel1300




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GlenC* /forum/post/13335543
> 
> 
> Define Picture quality.
> 
> 
> They compare like apples and oranges, apples and oranges are similar in shape....... The 34XBR is smaller and they both display video, they are both 16:9 format, both accept HDMI HD ...........



I know that the 34xbr960 has deeper blacks, but I want to know if it also has better color, contrast, brightness, etc.


And I know that it's motion handling is probably better, even though the Samsung 71f handles motion better than most LCDs.


----------



## Sonyboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pel1300* /forum/post/13336004
> 
> 
> I know that the 34xbr960 has deeper blacks, but I want to know if it also has better color, contrast, brightness, etc.
> 
> 
> And I know that it's motion handling is probably better, even though the Samsung 71f handles motion better than most LCDs.



It won't be as bright, but contrast and color would be on the 960s side. I had my 960 ISF calibrated and it went from being an awesome set to something truly extraordinary. From extremely accurate color reproduction,excellent color saturation, realistic flesh tones,etc. It's only fault is it's smaller screen size.


----------



## pel1300




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sonyboy* /forum/post/13336095
> 
> 
> It won't be as bright, but contrast and color would be on the 960s side. I had my 960 ISF calibrated and it went from being an awesome set to something truly extraordinary. From extremely accurate color reproduction,excellent color saturation, realistic flesh tones,etc. It's only fault is it's smaller screen size.



sigh...what the hell...***** ridiculous..


My samsung 71f is supposed to be ******* top of the line lcd of 2007...and it can't beat a freakin 4 year old CRT??!


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pel1300* /forum/post/13336824
> 
> 
> sigh...what the hell...***** ridiculous..
> 
> 
> My samsung 71f is supposed to be ******* top of the line lcd of 2007...and it can't beat a freakin 4 year old CRT??!



It just might be a little unfair comparing any flat screen to the 960.


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *colowxguy* /forum/post/13335411
> 
> 
> In my case, it's actually the whole screen that's involved. Everything takes on this reddish cast, as if some of the colors are getting left out. It'll snap back and forth for a few seconds, or even several minutes, and then (usually) settle down.



Then probably not the apeture grill. Sound more like a short somewhere, though I know you said it happened on multiple sources.


On another issue, does anyone have a Lumagen Processor (any model will do) in the same place as the Sony 34XBR960 that I could get you to check something?


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *colowxguy* /forum/post/13332224
> 
> 
> Sometimes it'll lock into the reddish cast, but when I rustle the cables around I can usually get the color back to where it should be, but it doesn't always stay there.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks much!
> 
> 
> --Bob



This line does say a lot. Poor-quality connections cause many problems. "RCA" connectors (typical audio and low-end video connectors) are most commonly affected. So this problem should be eliminated before you do any further troubleshooting. I would start by slightly pushing in on the outer lugs of the RCA connectors (by hand or very light pressure from a pliers), and then using some contact cleaner spray. Do this with one cable at a time so you don't mix them up--been there, done that! Then see if your problem has cleared up. If not, you might need to replace one or more of your cables. Once you have cleared up this problem, you might find you've solved everything--but if not, at least you have eliminated one potential source of the problem!


Mark


----------



## oC|-TiTaN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pel1300* /forum/post/13336824
> 
> 
> sigh...what the hell...***** ridiculous..
> 
> 
> My samsung 71f is supposed to be ******* top of the line lcd of 2007...and it can't beat a freakin 4 year old CRT??!



You have to remember CRT's have been around MUCH longer than your precious lcd and will thus require longer to produce similar results.


----------



## oC|-TiTaN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sonyboy* /forum/post/13336095
> 
> 
> It won't be as bright, but contrast and color would be on the 960s side. I had my 960 ISF calibrated and it went from being an awesome set to something truly extraordinary. From extremely accurate color reproduction,excellent color saturation, realistic flesh tones,etc. It's only fault is it's smaller screen size.



Oh, and Sonyboy you have a PM!


----------



## S. Hiller




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pel1300* /forum/post/13336824
> 
> 
> sigh...what the hell...***** ridiculous..
> 
> 
> My samsung 71f is supposed to be ******* top of the line lcd of 2007...and it can't beat a freakin 4 year old CRT??!



Well, the 81F with LED backlighting was the top Samsung model for 2007. And would be a better match for the CRT. But still not a match for viewing angles and motion...


LCD can go much bigger of course. Am replacing my amazing, but failing F520 computer CRT with a 40 inch LCD. Well, it's bigger at least...


----------



## 2ntense

I was trying to calibrate my 960 again the other day and for some dumb ass reason I reset the tv! I'm talking F'd up. I can no longer tune my free digital cable QAM channels and the overlay display flickers like mad.


Has anyone done this before? Could someone get me chronological procedures to fix this myself? I can't even imagine what it's gonna cost to have a tech come out to get this back to normal...










I can't believe I did this, I should have just stayed with RGB cuts, gains, and gamma.


----------



## WJonathan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *2ntense* /forum/post/13353123
> 
> 
> I was trying to calibrate my 960 again the other day and for some dumb ass reason I reset the tv! I'm talking F'd up. I can no longer tune my free digital cable QAM channels and the overlay display flickers like mad.
> 
> 
> Has anyone done this before? Could someone get me chronological procedures to fix this myself? I can't even imagine what it's gonna cost to have a tech come out to get this back to normal...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't believe I did this, I should have just stayed with RGB cuts, gains, and gamma.



Post this question in the "Sony Service Codes" thread, too.


----------



## 2ntense

Thanks, I forgot about that..


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *2ntense* /forum/post/13359812
> 
> 
> Thanks, I forgot about that..



Yes, at the beginning of the thread KenTech downloaded the entire service manual which I found to be clearly written with diagrams so even a non-technical person like myself was able to understand how to correctly resolve the geometric problems I accidentally created last week.

Be sure to go through the table of contents completely because you might find more than one section pertaining to your particular problem.


There are tons of posts from users so I'm sure you will find advice from others who accidentally hit the reset button as well.


Know you're upset and worried but am sure you will get the 960 to work fine once more without the expense of a service technician. Please let us know what happens.


Best of luck,

Joe


----------



## BeachComber

I know there have been problems with the DVI/HDMI input module on 1080i with the 34KV34XBR910 and the KDSR60XBR1, but I cannot remember if anyone has reported problems with the HDMI input on the 960 - specifically with 1080i being driven at 100IRE (or roughly red-lining it).


The problems I am seeing are clearly related to the HDMI input (and nothing to do with HDCP - non-DRM content) and only at 1080i. The same problems to do not occur with analog YPbPr. Or even if you have the ability to put color bars at 1920x1080i on your 960 through the HDMI connection, please message me.


Has anyone had any issue that they know of? I would also suggest that everyone find a way to do this, even if you don't message me - as I would have probably found this out otherwise.


And if anyone has a Lumagen Scaler around with this, I would like to compare what happens under specific settings/circumstances with you.


TIA


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/13375056
> 
> 
> I know there have been problems with the DVI/HDMI input module on 1080i with the 34KV34XBR910 and the KDSR60XBR1, but I cannot remember if anyone has reported problems with the HDMI input on the 960 - specifically with 1080i being driven at 100IRE (or roughly red-lining it).
> 
> 
> The problems I am seeing are clearly related to the HDMI input (and nothing to do with HDCP - non-DRM content) and only at 1080i. The same problems to do not occur with analog YPbPr. Or even if you have the ability to put color bars at 1920x1080i on your 960 through the HDMI connection, please message me.
> 
> 
> Has anyone had any issue that they know of? I would also suggest that everyone find a way to do this, even if you don't message me - as I would have probably found this out otherwise.
> 
> 
> And if anyone has a Lumagen Scaler around with this, I would like to compare what happens under specific settings/circumstances with you.
> 
> 
> TIA



According to the service manual, there is a Picture (White Level) Offset (****) service menu item that has separate values for DRC, Component, HDMI and ATSC (includes internal patterns). The defaults are all 7. Of course this item may also have an effect on non-1080i HDMI inputs. I'm not sure if 480i HDMI inputs would be controlled by the DRC or HDMI value.


1000th post milestone


----------



## psychot|K

Hey guys.


I'm in need of something to replace my 27" Toshiba CRT and I figure a XBR960 would be perfect.


I'm in Canada but I'm willing to pay the freight charges if need be, as long as you're willing to ship.


PM me if you have one in excellent condition and I'll take it off your hands!

Thanks in advance.


----------



## trivial




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *colowxguy* /forum/post/13335411
> 
> 
> In my case, it's actually the whole screen that's involved. Everything takes on this reddish cast, as if some of the colors are getting left out. It'll snap back and forth for a few seconds, or even several minutes, and then (usually) settle down.



This may not be relevant or useful, but I had a Sony CPD-G420 monitor behave in this exact fashion. It was, indeed, as though the green channel were flickering on and off; a showcase of pink and purple. As time went on, it started never stopping.


The monitor was NOS and Sony honored the warranty; they sent me a replacement quickly.


----------



## JayPSU

Anyone even remotely close to central Ohio who is looking to sell this tv, please send me a PM! Thanks!


----------



## Cheerose

Hoping you guys can help me out with this...


I have had this TV for about 3 years. I have now noticed that it will not accept any HDMI input that requires HDCP. For example, it will show a XBox 360 game through HDMI with no problems... however, if I try to watch a video through the 360 that requires HDCP - no dice.


I contacted an authorized Sony center (Norman's Electronics) who told me that there was no upgrade that they could think of... and it is probably a case where "the TV is older that the source material"... which seems BS to me.


I tried calling Sony ... and after trying to explain my situation with them (several times)... the basic answer is that it is the devices fault. Problem with that is that this is going on not only with my 360, but also with the Apple TV and with my Series 3.


The only thing that I can think of (other than buying a new TV) is to do a reset; which, as far as I can tell, means that I need to turn off the TV... unplug it from the surge protector... wait for, at least, 60 seconds, and then plug it back in - but this time directly to a wall outlet. At that point, then connect it with the HDMI and try again. However, I did something similar before and it did not fix the problem.


Any thoughts on this? I could always move this TV to another part of the house and get a new one - I just really don't want to spend the $ to do so (or do the research prior to spending the $).


Thanks,


Jeff


----------



## GamerGuyX

Does the XBR960 even support HDCP properly through HDMI? I thought that was one of the added features of the N model.


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GamerGuyX* /forum/post/13423258
> 
> 
> Does the XBR960 even support HDCP properly through HDMI? I thought that was one of the added features of the N model.



Electronics are identical and HDCP works properly through HDMI on both models. The only difference with the N is a different coating on the picture tube.


----------



## gprro1

Can I "fix" or adjust this issue.


I'm nitpicking a little here,as the tv looks pretty good. But, on white text with a black background I notice a pixel or two of red next to the text. Focus is also a little off at the screen edges. Is this adjustable?


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gprro1* /forum/post/13429594
> 
> 
> Can I "fix" or adjust this issue.
> 
> 
> On white text with a black background I notice a pixel or two of red next to the text.



That should be your convergence which most likely can be corrected.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gprro1* /forum/post/13429594
> 
> 
> Focus is also a little off at the screen edges. Is this adjustable?



That's much harder problem to fix - and since its a crt, often the answer is no.


Which corners do you notice the problem in?


----------



## GamerGuyX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/13423810
> 
> 
> Electronics are identical and HDCP works properly through HDMI on both models. The only difference with the N is a different coating on the picture tube.



Thanks for the info.


Now that we are on the subject can anyone tell me what version of HDMI the XBR960 has? I never did find out conclusively.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GamerGuyX* /forum/post/13436154
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info.
> 
> 
> Now that we are on the subject can anyone tell me what version of HDMI the XBR960 has? I never did find out conclusively.



The service manual lists the HDMI receiver IC part # as SII9993CTG100. The documentation for this IC indicates that it is HDMI 1.0 and HDCP 1.1.


----------



## gprro1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/13434065
> 
> 
> That should be your convergence which most likely can be corrected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's much harder problem to fix - and since its a crt, often the answer is no.
> 
> 
> Which corners do you notice the problem in?



Hey, thanks for the info. It's kind of funny this "old" tech tv is really new to me.


The left and right sides of the screen. About three or four inches maybe are a little blurred (very little, but noticeable compared to the center). I do notice more of the pixel problem on both sides also.


I really just started noticing it easily when I got a ps3. The small white text across the screen gets a little off at the sides. Thats when I looked closely and saw the red pixels.


----------



## WJonathan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gprro1* /forum/post/13437842
> 
> 
> Hey, thanks for the info. It's kind of funny this "old" tech tv is really new to me.
> 
> 
> The left and right sides of the screen. About three or four inches maybe are a little blurred (very little, but noticeable compared to the center). I do notice more of the pixel problem on both sides also.
> 
> 
> I really just started noticing it easily when I got a ps3. The small white text across the screen gets a little off at the sides. Thats when I looked closely and saw the red pixels.



Could also be an overscan problem. That will exaggerate misconvergence at the edges. If you do end up doing service menu work first, I would start with overscan, then go from there.


----------



## gprro1

I'm going to have to re-read the service menu thread. Tried reading once, but it didn't really stick.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/13423810
> 
> 
> Electronics are identical and HDCP works properly through HDMI on both models. The only difference with the N is a different coating on the picture tube.



Just read that products manufactured prior to 2005 might not support HDCP - does this mean it will work on more recent 960's (mine was manufactured May, 2005) rather than the first series of models?


Blue-ray players have HDCP -- has anybody with an early model encountered problems using it with the 960 (other than having to get an HDMI switch box)?


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/13448562
> 
> 
> Just read that products manufactured prior to 2005 might not support HDCP - does this mean it will work on more recent 960's (mine was manufactured May, 2005) rather than the first series of models?
> 
> 
> Blue-ray players have HDCP -- has anybody with an early model encountered problems using it with the 960 (other than having to get an HDMI switch box)?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/13437183
> 
> 
> The service manual lists the HDMI receiver IC part # as SII9993CTG100. The documentation for this IC indicates that it is HDMI 1.0 and HDCP 1.1.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi BeachComber,


Always fun to see in-house confidential memorandums that make their way to the general public, in this case Sony confirming there are no visual differences with the newer non-coated CRTs.


Where you able to find anything regarding HDCP compatability in earlier models?


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/13452294
> 
> 
> Hi BeachComber,
> 
> 
> Where you able to find anything regarding HDCP compatability in earlier models?



Raouliii is right on the money which is why I reposted his earlier post.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/13437183
> 
> 
> The service manual lists the HDMI receiver IC part # as SII9993CTG100. The documentation for this IC indicates that it is HDMI 1.0 and HDCP 1.1.


----------



## lzzy

So how do the PS3 bluRay movies look on this set ? Been thinking about buying a PS3 just for that reason. besides a HDMI cable Is their anything else i'd need to hook up the PS3 to this TV ?


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lzzy* /forum/post/13479337
> 
> 
> So how do the PS3 bluRay movies look on this set ? Been thinking about buying a PS3 just for that reason. besides a HDMI cable Is their anything else i'd need to hook up the PS3 to this TV ?



Great!


Nope.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lzzy* /forum/post/13479337
> 
> 
> So how do the PS3 bluRay movies look on this set ? Been thinking about buying a PS3 just for that reason. besides a HDMI cable Is their anything else i'd need to hook up the PS3 to this TV ?



If you already use HDMI for high def programming, you'll also need to purchase a switch box since we all know the 960 has just one HDMI input.


Most of us will eventually invest in blue ray when it's time to replace our current ones and the prices (for both discs and players) drop. So I have two questions:


1) Do those inexpensive mostly mechanical switch boxes (i.e., up to $50) cause any degregation of picture? I'd hate to invest in one that costs almost as much as an entry level blue ray player.


2) How much better would standard DVDs look played back on blue ray? Since the 960 already does an excellent job upscaling discs output from a standard 480P player is it possible the difference would be minute?


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/13483705
> 
> 
> If you already use HDMI for high def programming, you'll also need to purchase a switch box since we all know the 960 has just one HDMI input.
> 
> 
> Most of us will eventually invest in blue ray when it's time to replace our current ones and the prices (for both discs and players) drop. So I have two questions:
> 
> 
> 1) Do those inexpensive mostly mechanical switch boxes (i.e., up to $50) cause any degregation of picture? I'd hate to invest in one that costs almost as much as an entry level blue ray player.
> 
> 
> 2) How much better would standard DVDs look played back on blue ray? Since the 960 already does an excellent job upscaling discs output from a standard 480P player is it possible the difference would be minute?



1. I am very happy with this switch:

http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=204972580 


It's $39.99 now, but it is on sale often for $29 or even $24. I have a ps3, hd-dvd A2 and a DVI/Hdmi HTPC connected to my 960 through this switch. The only slight downside I have found so far is that you can't start devices in the backround. To fire up my HTPC, the 960 must be on HDMI input 7 and the switch must be set to the HTPC selector. The remote and IR blaster come in very handy, since the switch itself is buried in the back of my stand. PQ is indistinguishable from plugging the ps3 hdmi directly into the 960, to me anyway.


2. It really depends on the source material. Most movies the difference is really small, but then something like Lost Season 3 comes along on Blu-Ray and just blows everything else out of the water. That by itself made the ps3 worth it to me.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LongRufus* /forum/post/13484084
> 
> 
> 2. It really depends on the source material. Most movies the difference is really small, but then something like Lost Season 3 comes along on Blu-Ray and just blows everything else out of the water.



Interesting.


"Lost" was on ABC, at 720p when originally broadcast.


I assume your BluRay version is outputting at 1080i to the 960 (which cannot accept 1080p). And you say it is outstanding... presumably superior to the original 720p broadcast quality, if you can remember accurately?


So, the question would then be is the BluRay material at 1080i/p from some original digital master at that resolution which was downconverted to 720p for broadcast on ABC, or the other way around?


And is it because you're currently watching "Lost" at 1080i (presumably) however it came to be that way, is that really why it looks "better" than it did originally at 720p?


And... is this "objective" or "subjective"?


----------



## goodrichj

I posted this in the service codes thread also -


When I go into service mode on my 960, the service mode text is all wavy, blurry, and unreadable (its like a *really* bad analog signal). The rest of the picture looks fine. TV comes in clearly, menus are clear, etc. Its just the service mode text.


Does anyone know anything about this?


I just bought it used for $500 and I'm starting to regret it










Its too bad. I really like the TV I just want to make some geometry adjustments.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LongRufus* /forum/post/13484084
> 
> 
> 1. I am very happy with this switch:
> 
> http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=204972580
> 
> 
> It's $39.99 now, but it is on sale often for $29 or even $24. I have a ps3, hd-dvd A2 and a DVI/Hdmi HTPC connected to my 960 through this switch. The only slight downside I have found so far is that you can't start devices in the backround. To fire up my HTPC, the 960 must be on HDMI input 7 and the switch must be set to the HTPC selector. The remote and IR blaster come in very handy, since the switch itself is buried in the back of my stand. PQ is indistinguishable from plugging the ps3 hdmi directly into the 960, to me anyway.
> 
> 
> 2. It really depends on the source material. Most movies the difference is really small, but then something like Lost Season 3 comes along on Blu-Ray and just blows everything else out of the water. That by itself made the ps3 worth it to me.




Hi Long R.,


and thanks for the information about the switch box.


So you've found the difference in picture quality to be minimal between standard dvds output at 480p and upscaled by the 960 and output at 1080i without any upscaling? And the same for blue-ray discs (other than "Lost") when compared to the equivalent standard-definition DVD remastered with the best technology available?










That's what I thought as well, since so many films (i.e., Star Wars III, etc.) appear so pristine and vibrant on just standard DVD. And, from what I've read, the differences with blue-ray (and upconverting DVD players) are much more apparant on larger-size LCDs that have problems not inherent with smaller sized CRTs. Guess that's the advantage to owning a 960 with it's super-fine pitch CRT and top-grade technology.


So it seems best to wait until we need new players rather than invest in a blue-ray at this time.


----------



## tvh3ad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/13483705
> 
> 
> 2) How much better would standard DVDs look played back on blue ray? Since the 960 already does an excellent job upscaling discs output from a standard 480P player is it possible the difference would be minute?



I presume that you're asking how a particular film available on 480i DVD would look if available on blu-ray (rather than how a DVD would look if played back on a blu-ray player upscaling 480i to 1080i)?


Assuming that's the question: the answer partially depends on the film transfer quality and disc mastering job, but in general blu-ray looks somewhat better on my set than DVD. The difference is not as large as the vast gulf between SD and HD broadcasts, but it is definitely there. (One other added benefit to blu-ray is that zooming a letterboxed movie causes no discernible drop in sharpness.)



Spurred along by blu-ray, I may end up selling my set later this spring. I think last year's Pioneers (too expensive) and hopefully this year's higher-end Panasonics (cheaper) are finally close enough to the Sony reference that I'd be willing to let it go for a size jump. 8+ feet is just too far away for 34".


I'm still on the fence, though; I have a Sony warranty through '09 and every time I turn on the set (or catch up on this thread) I am reminded that this set is essentially perfect.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tvh3ad* /forum/post/13487686
> 
> 
> I presume that you're asking how a particular film available on 480i DVD would look if available on blu-ray (rather than how a DVD would look if played back on a blu-ray player upscaling 480i to 1080i)?
> 
> 
> Assuming that's the question: the answer partially depends on the film transfer quality and disc mastering job, but in general blu-ray looks somewhat better on my set than DVD. The difference is not as large as the vast gulf between SD and HD broadcasts, but it is definitely there. (One other added benefit to blu-ray is that zooming a letterboxed movie causes no discernible drop in sharpness.)
> 
> 
> 
> Spurred along by blu-ray, I may end up selling my set later this spring. I think last year's Pioneers (too expensive) and hopefully this year's higher-end Panasonics (cheaper) are finally close enough to the Sony reference that I'd be willing to let it go for a size jump. 8+ feet is just too far away for 34".
> 
> 
> I'm still on the fence, though; I have a Sony warranty through '09 and every time I turn on the set (or catch up on this thread) I am reminded that this set is essentially perfect.




Hi,


Actually, I was asking about both.







Have you found a difference in standard definition discs with the 960 upscaling the 480p output as compared to the blue-ray upconversion to 1080i?


Too bad you're more than eight feet away from the 960 because the picture quality is superb but obviously the screen size too small for that big a viewing distance (we sit about five and a half feet away if not leaning back on the sofa).


Thanks as always,

Joe


----------



## tvh3ad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/13488195
> 
> 
> Actually, I was asking about both.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you found a difference in standard definition discs with the 960 upscaling the 480p output as compared to the blue-ray upconversion to 1080i?



In a word, yes. Most blu-ray players don't do a particularly good job with standard DVDs, and I kept my standard player for this reason. My standard DVD player (which has a very good ABT deinterlacer/upscaler) does the processing at least as well as if not marginally better than the TV. The blu-ray deck looks terrible in comparison (but, of course, looks fabulous with blu-ray source material).



For standard DVDs, the moral of the story is always pretty much the same: the better the core video processing, deinterlacing, and scaling is, the better the picture will be.


----------



## lzzy

Thanks guys gonna buy the PS3 sometime this week, which comes with Spiderman 3 in bluRay atm







probably gonna get the movie 300 also


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lzzy* /forum/post/13490530
> 
> 
> Thanks guys gonna buy the PS3 sometime this week, which comes with Spiderman 3 in bluRay atm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> probably gonna get the movie 300 also



Hi Izzy,


Does PS3 play blue-ray discs as well as stand-alone players? Past posts noted standard dvds didn't look as good viewed through video game consoles compared to DVD players. Of course, High Definition might be a whole different story.


Congratulations and enjoy.


----------



## Sonyboy

^


The PS3 is a fantastic BR player. Its also the most future proof player for now due to updates via the Playstation network.


----------



## GamerGuyX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/13485675
> 
> 
> Hi Long R.,
> 
> 
> and thanks for the information about the switch box.
> 
> 
> So you've found the difference in picture quality to be minimal between standard dvds output at 480p and upscaled by the 960 and output at 1080i without any upscaling? And the same for blue-ray discs (other than "Lost") when compared to the equivalent standard-definition DVD remastered with the best technology available?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I thought as well, since so many films (i.e., Star Wars III, etc.) appear so pristine and vibrant on just standard DVD. And, from what I've read, the differences with blue-ray (and upconverting DVD players) are much more apparant on larger-size LCDs that have problems not inherent with smaller sized CRTs. Guess that's the advantage to owning a 960 with it's super-fine pitch CRT and top-grade technology.
> 
> 
> So it seems best to wait until we need new players rather than invest in a blue-ray at this time.



First of all, there is no *e* in Blu-ray.


With that out of the way I must say I disagree completely. I can't stand to watch a standard DVD on my 960 after experiencing Blu-ray and HD DVD. I currently have a collection of 75 Blu-ray titles and 53 HD DVD titles. All are viewed on my 960.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GamerGuyX* /forum/post/13507221
> 
> 
> First of all, there is no *e* in Blu-ray... I currently have a collection of 75 Blu-ray titles and 53 HD DVD titles. All are viewed on my 960.



Forgive me for my spelling error.


Of course, never seeing a blu-ray (got it right, this time!) on the 960 I am in no position to make a judgement call.


----------



## DJF(NJ)




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GamerGuyX* /forum/post/13507221
> 
> 
> First of all, there is no *e* in Blu-ray.
> 
> 
> With that out of the way I must say I disagree completely. I can't stand to watch a standard DVD on my 960 after experiencing Blu-ray and HD DVD. I currently have a collection of 75 Blu-ray titles and 53 HD DVD titles. All are viewed on my 960.



I agree. While Star Wars Episode III used to be my reference DVD for image quality, it looks so soft now after having owned HD-DVD and BRD. I now only use it for those 2 formats as well as Xbox 360 and PS3 games.


----------



## SwiftSweeper

I do not own blu(e)







- ray player yet, but I can clearly see the difference between upscaled DVDs and good quality HD channels like Discovery or MHD with this set. I would assume the blu(e)-ray will look even better then these channels. Some HD channels like TNT-HD or TBS-HD usially look worse than DVDs though. Like others pointed out, upscaled DVDs look softer in comparison to good quality HD channels. Do not get me wrong, DVDs look great on this set and they look much better than SD channels, but HD defiantly looks even better.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SwiftSweeper* /forum/post/13519828
> 
> 
> I do not own blu(e)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - ray player yet, but I can clearly see the difference between upscaled DVDs and good quality HD channels like Discovery or MHD with this set. I would assume the blu(e)-ray will look even better then these channels. Some HD channels like TNT-HD or TBS-HD usially look worse than DVDs though. Like others pointed out, upscaled DVDs look softer in comparison to good quality HD channels. Do not get me wrong, DVDs look great on this set and they look much better than SD channels, but HD defiantly looks even better.



When it comes to "live" material (i.e., sports, news, concerts, etc.) there is no way standard DVDs (even upscaled) can come close to HD. However, the difference seems less with movies on premium HD stations compared to a properly re-mastered DVD upscaled by the 960 (although I suspect this might have something to do with way the film is transmitted by the broadcaster). An example is the above noted "Star Wars III".


I saw a demonstration disc of standard definition material compared to Blu-ray on a Sony 40' LCD. The blu-ray was, of course, gorgeous but I suspect the demo also showed how SD material looked when outputed at just 480i with no upscaling or upconversion in order to demonstrate full six-time better resolution (the standard definition side did appear softer than what I'm used to on the 960).


The bottom line is many of us have extensive DVD libraries that would be too expensive to replace (even if a small percentage) with Blu-Ray discs and that most are satisfied with upconverting or upscaling their standard DVD collection. This will all go for naught if the prices go down and Blu-Ray players become the norm. Currently, however, standard DVD players still outsell Blu-Ray by ten to one.


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/13521038
> 
> 
> When it comes to "live" material (i.e., sports, news, concerts, etc.) there is no way standard DVDs (even upscaled) can come close to HD. However, the difference seems less with movies on premium HD stations compared to a properly re-mastered DVD upscaled by the 960 (although I suspect this might have something to do with way the film is transmitted by the broadcaster). An example is the above noted "Star Wars III".
> 
> 
> I saw a demonstration disc of standard definition material compared to Blu-ray on a Sony 40' LCD. The blu-ray was, of course, gorgeous but I suspect the demo also showed how SD material looked when outputed at just 480i with no upscaling or upconversion in order to demonstrate full six-time better resolution (the standard definition side did appear softer than what I'm used to on the 960).
> 
> 
> The bottom line is many of us have extensive DVD libraries that would be too expensive to replace (even if a small percentage) with Blu-Ray discs and that most are satisfied with upconverting or upscaling their standard DVD collection. This will all go for naught if the prices go down and Blu-Ray players become the norm. Currently, however, standard DVD players still outsell Blu-Ray by ten to one.



I find that broadcasted/cable HD movies vary in PQ a lot more than other HD programming. For instance, when my cable got switched from Time Warner to Comcast, I got free HBO-HD for about a week. I remember watching "Pride and Prejudice" on HBO-HD and marveling at the PQ. On the other hand, I caught a glimpse of "Peacemaker" on TNT-HD last night and it looked horrible. Even on the same channel, the difference in PQ can vary from movie to movie. I have a strong suspicion that many of these so called "HD" movies that are shown to us on these channels are just SD movies upscaled to HD resolution. Add to that cable compression...


I would not advocate replacing existing DVDs with Blu - rays because I think DVDs look very good on xbr960. I guess it is one of the advantages of tube technology and, by modern standards, relatively small screen size of the set.


However, I have seen a few movies with good quality transfer, and in my opinion, the difference in PQ between these movies and movies on my dvd is big enough to invest into blu-ray player and start buying/renting movies on blu-ray instead. And this is that I am planning to do this summer. Granted, I am gamer and I rent most of my movies, so going blu is much easier for me than for other people.


----------



## wbrett

Blu-ray absolutely smokes upscaled dvd viewed on this set. It's not even close.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SwiftSweeper* /forum/post/13524420
> 
> 
> I would not advocate replacing existing DVDs with Blu - rays because I think DVDs look very good on xbr960. I guess it is one of the advantages of tube technology and, by modern standards, relatively small screen size of the set.



My thoughts as well. In this case, CRT technology and a smaller screen size has its advantages over LCDs (and the appearance of size isn't as big as one thinks; the 960 is two feet thicker than LCDs and has to be closer to the viewer than a flat screen - in my living room, the 960 is also set six inches off the wall and appears close to a 40 inch set mounted two and a half feet further back).



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SwiftSweeper* /forum/post/13524420
> 
> 
> However, I have seen a few movies with good quality transfer, and in my opinion, the difference in PQ between these movies and movies on my dvd is big enough to invest into blu-ray player and start buying/renting movies on blu-ray instead. And this is that I am planning to do this summer. Granted, I am gamer and I rent most of my movies, so going blu is much easier for me than for other people.



Good point. Hopefully, the prices of Blu-Ray discs will drop considerably as well as the players.


----------



## BeachComber

Until someone else in this thread can run a reference 100% IRE White Field @ 1080i through the HDMI port of the 960 and not get tearing in the top right corner (anything less than 100 will not do it - so you must have a known reference signal generator) - and run a SMPTE pattern through the HDMI @ 1080i as well without a blue line in the middle, I am not convinced there is not a critical flaw in the electronics design of the HDMI input of this unit that clearly is causing issues.


Already Sony has replaced my CRT and the HDMI board. The only board left to replace is the MZ Board under the HDMI board - at that point its passed off the the A board where its analog anyway - and the 1080i YPbPr does not exhibit the issues. If replacing the MZ board does not correct this, then this is clearly a flaw with the TV itself and using HDMI should be avoided at all costs - BluRay or DVD.


----------



## mjrtoo

well, since it's a 1080i native device, HDMI isn't really necessary, use the component cable.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjrtoo* /forum/post/13536650
> 
> 
> well, since it's a 1080i native device, HDMI isn't really necessary, use the component cable.



But HD content doesn't look as good using component compared to HDMI.


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/13538692
> 
> 
> But HD content doesn't look as good using component compared to HDMI.



Not necessarily, Depends on your set and the device outputting the HD.


----------



## liquidneba




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/13538692
> 
> 
> But HD content doesn't look as good using component compared to HDMI.



Actually you're wrong. I had my XBR960N calibrated a few weeks ago by Chad Billheimer ISF perfectionist. We talked about HD quality via HDMI or Component. He told me that the component has slightly more resolution to it that HDMI thus the picture will be a little better through that connector. So I have my HD-DVD player video hooked up component directly to the TV and my audio via HDMI to my Denon Receiver so I can do Dolby True-HD via PCM. This coming from a meticulous calibrator who's done about 90 Sony XBR960s. I think he knows what's he talking about.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *liquidneba* /forum/post/13547089
> 
> 
> Actually you're wrong. I had my XBR960N calibrated a few weeks ago by Chad Billheimer ISF perfectionist. We talked about HD quality via HDMI or Component. He told me that the component has slightly more resolution to it that HDMI thus the picture will be a little better through that connector. So I have my HD-DVD player video hooked up component directly to the TV and my audio via HDMI to my Denon Receiver so I can do Dolby True-HD via PCM. This coming from a meticulous calibrator who's done about 90 Sony XBR960s. I think he knows what's he talking about.



That's very interesting and if I was wrong about component, I apologize to everyone. I experimented with both with the HD DVR (using the old INHD test patterns as a basis for settings) and found component lacking badly, but, as mentioned, it could have been the box.


Guess manufacturers are also to blame, professing HDMI is a step-up from component - might be just to sell another form of cable.


----------



## fbov

I just switched from a DVI-to-HDMI cable out of my SA 3250HD STB to component with no issues. (I needed my HDMI port for an Oppo 980, since it only upconverts over HDMI.)


Digital displays benefit greatly from a digital input, to minimize the D-A conversions, and a 1080p60 signal requires HDMI.

Frank


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/13548991
> 
> 
> That's very interesting and if I was wrong about component, I apologize to everyone. I experimented with both with the HD DVR (using the old INHD test patterns as a basis for settings) and found component lacking badly, but, as mentioned, it could have been the box.
> 
> 
> Guess manufacturers are also to blame, professing HDMI is a step-up from component - might be just to sell another form of cable.



Joe, you were very gracious in your reply. A true gentleman.


I don't believe there are any absolutes in this issue. I think it's a case of "YMMV." Component video has alway been the "purest" form of video, because it is the least processed. So if someone takes component video and does a poor encode to HDMI, it will look bad. Besides, the '960 does a fabulous job handling all kinds of inputs--and they'll look teriffic as long as they're created and distributed properly.


Mark


----------



## ProfoundDarkness

I have read an earlier post in this thread stating that selecting Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr out with Superwhite enabled is recommended for the PS3. This is in comparison to RGB Full. Is this the final verdict? I do notice enabling the RGB Full setting over Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr produces a slightly darker picture. With less detail in the blacks. Why is this?


----------



## Chorgey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ProfoundDarkness* /forum/post/13567936
> 
> 
> I have read an earlier post in this thread stating that selecting Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr out with Superwhite enabled is recommended for the PS3. This is in comparison to RGB Full. Is this the final verdict? I do notice enabling the RGB Full setting over Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr produces a slightly darker picture. With less detail in the blacks. Why is this?




The information that I have received from my calibrator Eliab from http://www.avical.com was the following:


You will need to set the PS3 to output properly. This will entail setting it to output to a widescreen TV, 1080i, and to turn 24fps off. You will also need to turn Super White on, RGB to limited, and the output to YCbCr. Finally, you may want to need to check the brightness and contrast levels with a DVE.


----------



## WJonathan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ProfoundDarkness* /forum/post/13567936
> 
> 
> I have read an earlier post in this thread stating that selecting Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr out with Superwhite enabled is recommended for the PS3. This is in comparison to RGB Full. Is this the final verdict? I do notice enabling the RGB Full setting over Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr produces a slightly darker picture. With less detail in the blacks. Why is this?



CRT HDTVs, and the 960 in particular, have a darker average brightness level compared to LCDs and plasmas. And component cables, in my experience, also contribute to this. Why? I have no idea, and the answers are probably ridiculously complex. But I have read the same advice from other Xbox360 and PS3 gamers, so I think it's correct.


----------



## ProfoundDarkness




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chorgey* /forum/post/13571728
> 
> 
> The information that I have received from my calibrator Eliab from http://www.avical.com was the following:
> 
> 
> You will need to set the PS3 to output properly. This will entail setting it to output to a widescreen TV, 1080i, and to turn 24fps off. You will also need to turn Super White on, RGB to limited, and the output to YCbCr. Finally, you may want to need to check the brightness and contrast levels with a DVE.



Thanks for the info. Any idea why RGB should be set to limited? Isn't that essentially clipping black and/or white?


Also, you got the same kind of info for the 360? Should it be set to output 720p or 1080i for example?


----------



## Chorgey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ProfoundDarkness* /forum/post/13573805
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info. Any idea why RGB should be set to limited? Isn't that essentially clipping black and/or white?
> 
> 
> Also, you got the same kind of info for the 360? Should it be set to output 720p or 1080i for example?



The explanation from avical.com is "When using RGB, leave the PS3 at limit otherwise you will increase banding.


RGB/Limit - Levels stay where they are. Y 1, CbCr 128 will be RGB 1,1,1 when done.

RGB/Full - Levels get compressed. Y 1, CbCr 128 will be RGB 16,16,16 when done.

Full is different than the usual expansion where Y 16, CbCr 128 becomes RGB 0,0,0."


I only have the info on the 960 and PS3, because that's the current setup that I have.


----------



## ProfoundDarkness




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chorgey* /forum/post/13573882
> 
> 
> The explanation from avical.com is "When using RGB, leave the PS3 at limit otherwise you will increase banding.
> 
> 
> RGB/Limit - Levels stay where they are. Y 1, CbCr 128 will be RGB 1,1,1 when done.
> 
> RGB/Full - Levels get compressed. Y 1, CbCr 128 will be RGB 16,16,16 when done.
> 
> Full is different than the usual expansion where Y 16, CbCr 128 becomes RGB 0,0,0."
> 
> 
> I only have the info on the 960 and PS3, because that's the current setup that I have.



Well thanks again for the info.










It works out for me anyway because the new receiver I am buying (Sony STR-DA5300ES) has a problem passing RGB Full correctly. The recommended setting has been to set to RGB Limited. I was thinking this was going to be a bad thing. Guess not.


----------



## LOTUS53




lzzy said:


> So how do the PS3 bluRay movies look on this set ? Been thinking about buying a PS3 just for that reason. besides a HDMI cable Is their anything else i'd need to hook up the PS3 to this TV ?[/QUO
> 
> 
> FANTASTIC!....BR is amazing....upscaled sddvd looks much better on PS3 than my oppo971...the sony xbr960 will bring out the best in your video source


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BTV Mark* /forum/post/13558977
> 
> 
> Joe, you were very gracious in your reply. A true gentleman.
> 
> 
> I don't believe there are any absolutes in this issue. I think it's a case of "YMMV." Component video has alway been the "purest" form of video, because it is the least processed. So if someone takes component video and does a poor encode to HDMI, it will look bad. Besides, the '960 does a fabulous job handling all kinds of inputs--and they'll look teriffic as long as they're created and distributed properly.
> 
> 
> Mark



Hi Mark,


Thanks for the nice words, which go for you too!


Not being technically inclined, I've always wondered why upconverting DVD players output 1080i via HDMI only and not component. Any technical reason to explain why?


Joe


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/13576034
> 
> 
> ....Not being technically inclined, I've always wondered why upconverting DVD players output 1080i via HDMI only and not component. Any technical reason to explain why?..



I've always understood it to be for the sole reason of meeting copy protection requirements.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/13577500
> 
> 
> I've always understood it to be for the sole reason of meeting copy protection requirements.



Hi Raoul,


Though HDMI incorporates special copy protections, all one with an anti-scrambling device needs to use is the 480p output to get around it. Am sure this wouldn't stop the professional pirates who wouldn't be using upconverting players to bootleg copies.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/13576034
> 
> 
> Hi Mark,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the nice words, which go for you too!
> 
> 
> Not being technically inclined, I've always wondered why upconverting DVD players output 1080i via HDMI only and not component. Any technical reason to explain why?
> 
> 
> Joe



Joe, I don't have a clue. But I wonder if it's a cost issue, with component being more expensive since it needs 3 channels all calibrated properly.


Mark


----------



## RalphArch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/13577858
> 
> 
> Hi Raoul,
> 
> 
> Though HDMI incorporates special copy protections, all one with an anti-scrambling device needs to use is the 480p output to get around it. Am sure this wouldn't stop the professional pirates who wouldn't be using upconverting players to bootleg copies.



I know that my Avel Pro-linkplayer does not output any dvd's over the dvi-i output; regardless of output settings (even 480i or 480p), unless an HDCP device is detected.


----------



## kctobyjoe




LOTUS53 said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lzzy* /forum/post/13479337
> 
> 
> So how do the PS3 bluRay movies look on this set ? Been thinking about buying a PS3 just for that reason. besides a HDMI cable Is their anything else i'd need to hook up the PS3 to this TV ?[/QUO
> 
> 
> FANTASTIC!....BR is amazing....upscaled sddvd looks much better on PS3 than my oppo971...the sony xbr960 will bring out the best in your video source
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UPSCALE ORiG DVDS are a joke. Almost ALL my prerecorded DVDS REFUSE to upscale past 480x. Get a warning. However if the DVD is RIPPED it will upscale FINE! Dunno why.
> 
> 
> AND...yup. The BR movies look GREAT. HOWEVER i CANNOT use my cable box Scientific Atlanta model # ? (COMCAST) OR the SONY PS3 using my HDMI
> 
> cable connection. Direc TV box however works fine. AT times i get the error
> 
> it wont work with the DTV box then it shows up ok in seconds.
> 
> I changed ISPs and rcd an answer from SONY how to fix, but it's gone now
> 
> cant find correct site URL to ask Q again ;-(
> 
> PLEASE reply to [email protected] IF U have an answer ;-(
Click to expand...


----------



## Joseph Dubin

With all the discussion regarding Blu-Ray, I came across the following from Crave at C-Net:



"Blu-ray is best on a big-screen TV: Can you see the difference between standard DVD and Blu-ray? Yes--but it may not be as noticeable as you would think. Like all high-definition material, Blu-ray discs look their most-impressive at bigger screen sizes, where DVD can sometimes start to look a bit soft. Put another way: if your TV is 37 inches or smaller, you probably won't be getting a huge advantage from Blu-ray.


Caveat: Eagle-eyed videophiles--or those who sit especially close to their 1080p TVs--may well see a difference. Rule of thumb: if HDTV programming looks noticeably better than DVD playback on your TV, then Blu-ray will be a worthwhile investment."



Of course, there are owners of the 960 who strongly disagree, however, the more research the more confusing it gets - I come across many websites with comments regarding "smaller screens" that state the same as CNet above.


But PS3 owners should love the following also written by Crave in C-Net, regarding it is best to wait a while before purchasing Blu-Ray:



"the Sony PlayStation 3. It's the only player that's futureproof, it doubles as a top-notch game machine and network digital media streamer, and it's readily available for $400. Oh--it also happens to be a great Blu-ray player, and it does a fine job of upconverting your standard DVDs to high-definition resolutions. As such, it remains the exception to the rule, and the only Blu-ray player that we can enthusiastically recommend for the time being."



So it seems everyone is right - owners of the 960 can't go wrong with the PS3. Too bad I'm not into video games, however.


----------



## ProfoundDarkness




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/13581028
> 
> 
> So it seems everyone is right - owners of the 960 can't go wrong with the PS3. Too bad I'm not into video games, however.



Who says you have you use the PS3 to play games? Is someone pointing a gun to your head?


Btw, I own 73 Blu-ray discs and 55 HD DVD's. I can't stand to watch a standard DVD on my XBR960 anymore. There is just is no comparison.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ProfoundDarkness* /forum/post/13581444
> 
> 
> Who says you have you use the PS3 to play games? Is someone pointing a gun to your head?



My wife, who never misses.


Actually, I'm guessing that the price of blu-ray players will eventually become much less expensive than that of the PS3, which is only when my better half will lower the gun.


----------



## Shadowknight

Uh. My 910 died yesterday. I have my 960 in my bedroom as backup, but assuming I can't get the 910 fixed, I may be in the market for a used 960. Unfotunately, it's pretty rare to see a 960 on Craigslist in the Charlotte, NC area...


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shadowknight* /forum/post/13582856
> 
> 
> Uh. My 910 died yesterday. I have my 960 in my bedroom as backup, but assuming I can't get the 910 fixed, I may be in the market for a used 960. Unfotunately, it's pretty rare to see a 960 on Craigslist in the Charlotte, NC area...



You are about 30 days too late as someone from Charlotte was looking to get rid of his in this thread.


Seems there was also someone in Raleigh.


----------



## bhoffman50

Hello,


I've been a happy owner of a KD34XBR960 for about 4 months over 2 years

(just 4 months post the SONY 2 year warranty).


Within the last week, the set has starting behaving odly. When I power the unit up using the remote, I get the standard 10 red blinks, but then the set sits dark (in all input modes) for about 5-10 minutes..


When it's ready, the picutre will flicker in for 5-10 seconds and settle....

After that, I've see no difference...


Any suggestions ?


thanks,


Bill


----------



## CCMOO

A sad day for me. I sold my 960 because of space issues - not width but depth. The shippers took it away this morning. I won't get melodramatic and all, but I will miss that fantastic TV.


----------



## PhilipO38

Hi all,


I had my XBR960 since dec of 05' which i use as our(wife and 4yr son) LR tv, but for a den i'm using a 27" Samsung HDTV, which is ok...but i may need to split my gaming time in between both.


(360 Elite, PS3 and a Wii, the 1st two using HDMI and the Wii using component)


What is the best quality HDTV that can come near the quality of the XBR960 line, at the 32" range?


I know Samsung puts out a 32" 1080p LCD model but the review at cnet was not the best.
http://reviews.cnet.com/flat-panel-t...3.html?tag=txt 


Any ideas guys which 32" LCD to choose, that can come the closest to matching up to the XBR960's standards?


TIA


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PhilipO38* /forum/post/13610352
> 
> 
> Any ideas guys which 32" LCD to choose, that can come the closest to matching up to the XBR960's standards?
> 
> 
> TIA



If black levels are important to you then you wont find a 32" LCD that's comparable to a XBR960. You'd have to get into the larger more expensive LED LCD models.


----------



## WJonathan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PhilipO38* /forum/post/13610352
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> I had my XBR960 since dec of 05' which i use as our(wife and 4yr son) LR tv, but for a den i'm using a 27" Samsung HDTV, which is ok...but i may need to split my gaming time in between both.
> 
> 
> (360 Elite, PS3 and a Wii, the 1st two using HDMI and the Wii using component)
> 
> 
> What is the best quality HDTV that can come near the quality of the XBR960 line, at the 32" range?
> 
> 
> I know Samsung puts out a 32" 1080p LCD model but the review at cnet was not the best.
> http://reviews.cnet.com/flat-panel-t...3.html?tag=txt
> 
> 
> Any ideas guys which 32" LCD to choose, that can come the closest to matching up to the XBR960's standards?
> 
> 
> TIA



Generally the expensive ones. Top-end Sony Bravia XBRs aren't bad, the Panasonic LX700 has a great picture too.


----------



## PhilipO38

I may now need to switch it around and put this XBR960 into our den since my son is now scratching the glass up a bit, and i can't have it get worse.(he's 4yrs old and autistic, so he does not understand what he's doing)


If i do this, i'm thinking of going plasma in say a 42" model(1080p if possible), but i'm i read the reviews on the best plasma's in the 42" range(ie..Panasonic TH-42PZ700U) and the color accuracy for green was poor.


Actually i may have to go with a value Plasma(Vizio got high ratings in the 42" range) because my son can destroy anything..and fast.


Eithier way, my question if i go with a 42" in the LR, since i'm a bigtime gamer, should i go with a Plasma or LCD?


I'm thinking it's more wise with a Plasma since it's main fault is image burn in, but LCD's have worse response time, of which i know i can't deal with.

(I'll be using my 360/PS3 on the XBR960 mostly, but in case i want to play them in the LR, i need a tv, that's better for gaming)


So would you go with a Plasma or LCD?


TIA for any help.


btw: Can the glass screen be replaced on this XBR960 in case my son

scratches it worse? It's not under warranty but as long as a Sony repair shot can fix it, i could care less about the $$.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PhilipO38* /forum/post/13623406
> 
> 
> I may now need to switch it around and put this XBR960 into our den since my son is now scratching the glass up a bit, and i can't have it get worse.(he's 4yrs old and autistic, so he does not understand what he's doing)
> 
> 
> If i do this, i'm thinking of going plasma in say a 42" model(1080p if possible), but i'm i read the reviews on the best plasma's in the 42" range(ie..Panasonic TH-42PZ700U) and the color accuracy for green was poor.
> 
> 
> Actually i may have to go with a value Plasma(Vizio got high ratings in the 42" range) because my son can destroy anything..and fast.
> 
> 
> Eithier way, my question if i go with a 42" in the LR, since i'm a bigtime gamer, should i go with a Plasma or LCD?
> 
> 
> I'm thinking it's more wise with a Plasma since it's main fault is image burn in, but LCD's have worse response time, of which i know i can't deal with.
> 
> (I'll be using my 360/PS3 on the XBR960 mostly, but in case i want to play them in the LR, i need a tv, that's better for gaming)
> 
> 
> So would you go with a Plasma or LCD?
> 
> 
> TIA for any help.
> 
> 
> btw: Can the glass screen be replaced on this XBR960 in case my son
> 
> scratches it worse? It's not under warranty but as long as a Sony repair shot can fix it, i could care less about the $$.



Very sorry to learn of your son's autisim but so happy to know he is surrounded by loving and understanding parents.


As far as the LCD/Plasma question, Crutchfield states a LCD would be a better choice for those who play video games or watch non-HD material in the 4x3 mode. I would also be hesitant to hook up a PS3 or watch sporting events (with the stationary tickers on top) because of the burn-in issue.


Hope this helps.


----------



## Mathesar

I'm a big time gamer but I'm also extremely picky with black level performance, I ended up with a Pioneer 5080 Plasma and couldn't be happier, I was hoping for XBR960 quality and it actually surpasses it.


The Pioneer's have a "Orbiter" feature which is enabled by default and it greatly reduces the chances of burn in. I havent had any issues, Between my nephew and I my TV is used a lot for gaming.


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PhilipO38* /forum/post/13623406
> 
> 
> ...... So would you go with a Plasma or LCD?



You probably should stay away from a LCD, they have, IIRC, plastic screens that are more susceptible to damage. Any TV with a anti glare surface will be at risk.


You could consider a clear piece of plastic (used for windows) to put in front of the 960 tube. Replacing the glass on the 960 means a new tube, expensive and possibly NLA.


A Plasma can also be mounted on the wall, a little higher, possibly out of reach........


----------



## colowxguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *colowxguy* /forum/post/13332224
> 
> 
> I've had a 960N since July 2006. Got it as an open-box for $699; I think it was a display model for awhile. Typically the picture is stunning, but a fair amount of the time the screen seems to be "vibrating" and will switch rapidly back and forth from a reddish cast to the regular color table. This seems to happen most often during the first 30 minutes or so after I've started watching (I typically watch about 60 minutes a day and always turn the set off). It happens equally often when I'm watching STD and HD (HDMI cable) as well as DVDs (component cable), so I'm assuming this isn't a problem with the input cables. Sometimes it'll lock into the reddish cast, but when I rustle the cables around I can usually get the color back to where it should be, but it doesn't always stay there.
> 
> 
> My warranty expires in July, so I'm thinking I should get serious about fixing this problem. Any suggestions? If this has come up in a previous post, please feel free to route me there (I skimmed some but not all of the forum pages). Overall I LOVE this TV, but the spastic screen is really starting to bug me.
> 
> 
> Thanks much!
> 
> 
> --Bob



Good news and bad news: a local Sony-authorized technician came over and replaced the CRT board and the MYCX (whatever that is). This seems to have completely fixed the flashing/vibrating discussed above.


However, in the process, the technician somehow messed with the calibration so that there's now noticeable bending/bowing of horizontal lines, such as in the cable menu. See attached pic. He did a fair amount of twiddling, but since the Service Menu only allows for correction of vertically oriented lines, he ended up saying "I've done all I can do." When he left, there was still a waviness (generally up, then down, then up) as lines go from left to right. The top-left and bottom-right corners are also quite bowed, and the left side seems compressed. Ugh.


After a couple of hours, I called the guy's shop and complained. They've apparently "researched" the matter and are sending someone out again this Wednesday. Any tips on what to watch for and ask for? In this thread I've found references to magnets on the tube itself--should I expect this technician to mess with those? They've tried to lower my expectations, saying that CRT displays aren't an exact science. True enough, but at least I want the picture as good as it was before . . . especially because the warranty goes away in July. Am I being overly picky?


Thanks in advance for your input.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *colowxguy* /forum/post/13629823
> 
> 
> However, in the process, the technician somehow messed with the calibration so that there's now noticeable bending/bowing of horizontal lines, such as in the cable menu. See attached pic.



And he left with the picture looking like this?? He thought everything was ok? Granted, he wasn't there to do a tune-up, but to repair something definitely in need of new parts, but still...




> Quote:
> They've apparently "researched" the matter and are sending someone out again this Wednesday. Any tips on what to watch for and ask for? In this thread I've found references to magnets on the tube itself--should I expect this technician to mess with those?



Definitely. MAGNETS.


If he doesn't have any he should order them from Sony and return yet again when he receives them.


Make sure he uses a test pattern generator, hopefully at 1080i and at least on the input you use to watch your 1080i/720p cable source, and does his geometry adjustments (via service menu and magnets) with this pattern on-screen.


And be very observant about "convergence" effects (i.e. visible red/green/blue spreading of the sharp lines in the test pattern). You want to end up with white in sharp dots and sharp horizontal/vertical lines, not rainbow effects.


If you have your own DVD copy of DVE or AVIA, you might also use the geometry/overscan patterns from those sources to test/demonstration. That will be at 480p, but most of the geometry/overscan adjustments (and certainly magnet effects) are "global".


Yes, adjusting CRT's is tough, and inevitably somewhat of a compromise as you just will not achieve "perfection". But the type of bowing your picture shows (either from the top down at the top of the screen, or from the bottom up at the bottom of the screen) is a common complaint. Magnets are definitely needed, but in the case of my own 960 I was able to spend more time in the service menu after the technician left to get things where I was satisfied. You may need to do the same thing.


[I've posted my service menu settings spreadsheet before. If you haven't seen it PM me with your email address and I'll send it to you. I think you'll find it quite useful for reference, even though your own set's "proper" settings may well differ, especially after a magnet job.]


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *colowxguy* /forum/post/13629823
> 
> 
> Good news and bad news: a local Sony-authorized technician came over and replaced the CRT board and the MYCX (whatever that is). This seems to have completely fixed the flashing/vibrating discussed above.
> 
> 
> However, in the process, the technician somehow messed with the calibration so that there's now noticeable bending/bowing of horizontal lines, such as in the cable menu. See attached pic. He did a fair amount of twiddling, but since the Service Menu only allows for correction of vertically oriented lines, he ended up saying "I've done all I can do." When he left, there was still a waviness (generally up, then down, then up) as lines go from left to right. The top-left and bottom-right corners are also quite bowed, and the left side seems compressed. Ugh.
> 
> 
> After a couple of hours, I called the guy's shop and complained. They've apparently "researched" the matter and are sending someone out again this Wednesday. Any tips on what to watch for and ask for? In this thread I've found references to magnets on the tube itself--should I expect this technician to mess with those? They've tried to lower my expectations, saying that CRT displays aren't an exact science. True enough, but at least I want the picture as good as it was before . . . especially because the warranty goes away in July. Am I being overly picky?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for your input.



No, you're not being overly picky! And, he should know that the service manual has adjustments for both vertical and horizontal lines, not just vertical.


I can understand being hesitant to have this "technician" fool around with the magnets. If you don't feel uncomfortable doing so, you could correct the geometry yourself by using the service manual, which is available through another thread in this forum (there is a section on setting the geometry properly).


I have a monoscope pattern on my HD-DVR, retained from the old INHD set-up patterns which much be used in conjunction with the picture size and geometry section which appears on pages 15 through 22 (as somebody else mentioned, this pattern is on any good video set-up disc). I suggest you run off these pages and write down both the current setting and one you eventually settle on. Drawings are provided for each adjustment so you will know what to look for. Do the procedure in the sequential order provided.


While I've listed them in alphabetical order, these are the data settings I use for the FULL mode:


HPOS - 29

HSIZ - 44

HTPZ - 0

LANG - 18

LBOW - 42

LCP - 41

MPIN - 9

PIN - 17

PPHA - 19

SCRL - 28

SLIN - 8

UPC - 36

VANG - 37

VBOW - 30

VCEN - 16

VLIN - 4

VPIN - 15

VPOS - 27

VSCO - 4

VSIZ - 29


Most of these also affect Wide Zoom. The only ones that can be adjusted individually for that mode are:


ASAPT - 22

ASW - 0

HPOS - 29

HSIZ - 47

LPC - 42

PIN - 28

PPHA - 22

SCRL - 29

SLIN - 14

UPC - 45

VLIN - 7

VSCO - 8


All these devices are found under sections 2105D-1 and 2105D-2.


If you're not familiar with making service adjustments, the service manual will provide information on how to get the adjustment options to appear on your screen, to manuever within them, adjust the settings and how to save them. As mentioned, write down the original factory settings in case you want to return to them.


Only do this if you feel comfortable doing so. Again, if you do write down what the original settings are, you can always re-enter them so you don't have to worry about anything.


Good luck and I hope this helps.


----------



## trivial




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *colowxguy* /forum/post/13629823
> 
> 
> there was still a waviness (generally up, then down, then up) as lines go from left to right.



This is called seagull and I know of no single adjustment for it in direct-view tubes. But combinations of settings can surely alleviate the problem if someone knows what they're doing.


> Quote:
> In this thread I've found references to magnets on the tube itself--should I expect this technician to mess with those? They've tried to lower my expectations, saying that CRT displays aren't an exact science. True enough, but at least I want the picture as good as it was before . . . especially because the warranty goes away in July. Am I being overly picky?



No, and from what you've told me I wouldn't let one of that company's techs anywhere near my sets with magnets. Clearly the service menu was altered, and new alterations should reverse the damage they did. If they can't figure out how, it still makes no sense for them to pop the bucket.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

A question for those hooking up both a blu-ray player and HD cable box via HDMI:


Did you have to adjust the 960's picture settings (brightness, picture, color, hue, sharpness and clear-edge) for blu-ray in lieu of the settings originally used for HDTV? Or did you simply use a different picture mode (cinema) for blu-ray (as opposed to "Pro") for cable?


Although I prefer "Pro" for all my video inputs, I would use "Cinema" if two different sets of adjustments were required (while guessing blu-ray players have their own picture menus it is possible the optomin picture qualty might not be achievable with the 960 settings as they are for TV).


Thanx as always


----------



## Bitwize

i'm selling my xbr 960. located in the dayton, ohio area. pm if interested. thx!


----------



## richardmn

While we may not notice much of an improvement in the picture on our "small" screens, I'm wondering if anyone has noticed an improvement in audio quality? It is my understanding that audio quality degraded in the shift from laser disk to DVD and with the move to Blu-Ray the sound is back to where it was.


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins

Sound quality... through the 960? Is that what you're asking? Very, very poor compared to a dedicated speaker setup. About what is to be expected when using the built in speakers for audio. I'm not even sure what audio connections are on the back of the 960 (toslink maybe,) but watching BluRay movies with stereo audio using weak TV speakers is sort of a waste.


To get the most out of BluRay (even DVD for that matter) you'll need a decent 5.1 setup (or, if you have the room, 7.1,) and a receiver capable of decoding TrueHD or DTS MA.


If you're just asking a general question about the audio on DVD vs the audio on BluRay discs it is a huge improvement given you have a speaker setup that's up to snuff. BluRay uses lossless compression (as opposed to lossy,) so you're virtually getting what's on the studio master.


----------



## richardmn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stinky-Dinkins* /forum/post/13665993
> 
> 
> Sound quality... through the 960? Is that what you're asking? Very, very poor compared to a dedicated speaker setup. About what is to be expected when using the built in speakers for audio. I'm not even sure what audio connections are on the back of the 960 (toslink maybe,) but watching BluRay movies with stereo audio using weak TV speakers is sort of a waste.
> 
> 
> To get the most out of BluRay (even DVD for that matter) you'll need a decent 5.1 setup (or, if you have the room, 7.1,) and a receiver capable of decoding TrueHD or DTS MA.
> 
> 
> If you're just asking a general question about the audio on DVD vs the audio on BluRay discs it is a huge improvement given you have a speaker setup that's up to snuff. BluRay uses lossless compression (as opposed to lossy,) so you're virtually getting what's on the studio master.



Maybe I took to much for granted but I assumed that most of us are using a 5.1 system. So my question is about the improvement to the overall experience, both audio and visual.


----------



## JayPSU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bitwize* /forum/post/13643614
> 
> 
> i'm selling my xbr 960. located in the dayton, ohio area. pm if interested. thx!



PM sent.


----------



## silent_man

Hello! I've been using my 960 without incident since 2005 (this is actually my first post since registering specifically to do research on the 960 back then!), but recently it's developed an intermittent issue: Basically it looks like the TV turns off then on again in a split second, almost like a flicker or pop (and makes a noise similar to when you turn it off). It doesn't seem like it's actually powering off, as no onscreen text or input label ever appears. It's like the screen blinks and then everything is fine. The original warranty expired last September and I never got around to extending it with Sony. I'm assuming it's too late to purchase any further warranty coverage from them, so I'm a bit worried that this might turn into something worse. Any idea what might be happening here?


----------



## 8086

I have a KD-34XBR960 , does anyone know if the Sony _"Control S"_ remote link is compatible with Onkyo/Integra _"Remote Interactive"_ or _"RI"_, Specifically the Integra DTR-7.6? The Sony instruction manual is rather vague on this topic.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Had a little panic situation this afternoon which I was finally able to resolve.


Read in the service manual (under geometry) how to access the appropriate test patterns in the 960. I wanted to see if these might be better than using those stored on my DVR from the old INHD (was happy to see very slight adjustments were required for only one or two settings).


The problem? The pattern remained on the screen after exiting the service options. No special instructions in the service manual on how to exit from them, nor did Sony CS know how to do it (he just had me unplug the set for a minute). Returning the DTV/pattern to it's original "0" and entering "write" would only leave the original black screen; the pattern last used returned when turning the set back on. Would have to wait till tomorrow to call a special service number. Needless to say I was ready to kick myself for being so obsessive and afraid I was going to hear it from my better half for fooling around with something I shouldn't have.


Fortunately I found the remedy - remembered seeing a category for HDMI when skipping through the service settings. Found it and a sub-category (I forgot what) which enabled me to reset the input to the HDMI. Whew, will never go that route again (and surprised instructions on returning to the HDMI input were not written at the end of the geometric section of the service manual).


Checked my service settings (which all remained in-tact) and only had to re-adjust the user menu settings (also written down previously).


Funny thing. I keept the 960 unplugged for more almost ten minutes hoping it would do the trick. While that didn't work out, when the problem was resolved and the user settings re-set properly, I thought I saw a slightly better overall picture. Assumed this was wishful thinking on my part along with the relief that I finally got the picture back; but then I noticed pure white on the extreme top right hand corner of the 5% safety line of the overscan pattern whereas it was slightly blue before.


I know the 960 automaticly degauses when turned on. Could unplugging it for nearly ten minutes have done a better job and also provide the set with a "quick tune-up"?


Whatever, I learned my lesson and thanked my wife for not getting too upset and annoyed with me.


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *8086* /forum/post/13738458
> 
> 
> I have a KD-34XBR960, does anyone know if the Sony _"Control S"_ remote link is compatible with Onkyo/Integra _"Remote Interactive"_ or _"RI"_, Specifically the Integra DTR-5.5? The Sony instruction manual is rather vague on this topic.



The Sony Control-S port is compatible with the Onkyo IR port. It is not compatible with the RI port - that only works with other RI products.


Some of the Onkyo Receivers have both ports. Others do not. I suspect this is what the IR In/Out is on your receiver which is detailed on page 78-79 of the DTR-5.5 owner's manual.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Using audio from the HDMI, does the optical audio-out of the 960 ouput 5.1 to a Dolby Digital receiver or just 2.0?


I once tried this and was unable to get a 5.1 signal out of the receiver.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/13753143
> 
> 
> Using audio from the HDMI, does the optical audio-out of the 960 ouput 5.1 to a Dolby Digital receiver or just 2.0?
> 
> 
> I once tried this and was unable to get a 5.1 signal out of the receiver.



I don't know for absolute sure, but I don't believe the 960 actually "accepts" 5.1 on its HDMI input. Of course the audio system in the set doesn't actually have 5.1 processors and speakers, so it's hard to argue otherwise nor prove that it does or does not.


But as you were unable to "route" the digital HDMI-provided audio via the optical output of the 960 to a receiver and have it appear as 5.1 input to the receiver, that would suggest we're dealing with 2.0 audio for the 960, likely from the HDMI source itself... which is not providing 5.1 to the 960 but rather only 2.0.


I think this is also how the SA8300 works, when you connect it via HDMI-to-HDMI to the HDMI input of a flat-panel like the Sharp Aquos, and then also connect the optical output of the SA8300 to an audio receiver/processor. Turns out you will not get 5.1 audio delivered from the SA8300 to the receiver, because the Sharp Aquos denies 5.1 capability to the HDMI connection and the SA8300 "shuts down" its 5.1 circuitry entirely, feeding only standard 2.0 PCM stereo outputs to all of its digital outputs (including the Aquos via HDMI, and the optical output of the SA8300 itself).


The way to circumvent this for the SA8300 is to connect it to the Sharp Aquos via an HDMI-to-DVI cable, to the DVI input of the Sharp Aquos instead (where audio is not involved). That way the Aquos cannot "deny" 5.1 audio capability, and the SA8300 will thus not shut down 5.1 audio output, and thus the SA8300 now delivers full 5.1 audio to the optically connected receiver/processor. And anyway, who would be using the tiny audio system of the Aquos when you had an outboard external 5.1 audio system?


I suspect the XBR960 and your 5.1-capable audio source are working similarly... except that there is no DVI-only input on the 960 to "fool your source".



P.S. - that's one reason I use component video connection from my sources (DVR and D-VHS) to my 960, while sending 5.1 digital audio optically from the source direct to the receiver. No "audio routing" attempted through the 960.


I honestly have not observed any visual difference on the 960 from component video vs. HDMI video. Staying with component connections allows me to use my Zektor switch to select component video to the TV and corresponding optical digital audio to the receiver, as the Zektor supports component video and optical/coax/analog audio inputs and outputs. Maximum possible audio/video flexibility and quality, and full 5.1 capability... just not through the 960.


----------



## Ennui

I am using the optical out to my receiver 5.1 system with a CableCARD and it works fine.


Nothing connected to the HDMI input.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ennui* /forum/post/13754940
> 
> 
> I am using the optical out to my receiver 5.1 system with a CableCARD and it works fine.



Quite a difference between coax from cable as source (using QAM tuner, and extracting provided 5.1 digital audio and sending it directly to the optical output) and not being fed 5.1 via HDMI from an HDMI-source because the set "denies 5.1 ability". If the set is not given 5.1 audio, it certainly has no 5.1 audio to send to its optical output.



> Quote:
> Nothing connected to the HDMI input.



This would seem to be a major difference. There's no way to "deny 5.1 ability" to the cable's coax, hence why 5.1 digital audio enters the 960's digital audio system from the QAM tuner.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/13754294
> 
> 
> P.S. - that's one reason I use component video connection from my sources (DVR and D-VHS) to my 960, while sending 5.1 digital audio optically from the source direct to the receiver. No "audio routing" attempted through the 960".



Yes, I have the audio directly going to my dolby digital receiver via optical fom the SA 8300 DVR. Was hoping 5.1 could be output from the 960 so I wouldn't have to change the box's audio setting from HDMI to Dolby Digital when switching from the TV speakers to the receiver.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/13754294
> 
> 
> I honestly have not observed any visual difference on the 960 from component video vs. HDMI video.



I do, big time.


Before getting the DVR, picture quality from component did match that of HDMI, however, my adjustments were based on visual observations without the aid of HD test patterns. With the DVR, I was able to store the HD test patterns from the old INHD onto it's hard drive; used in conjunction with blue-filter glasses, it enabled me to precisely adjust the settings for each input (different settings were required for each input). Black level, contrast, color and sharpness for component could not be improved to the fine degree as was HDMI -- component seemed dull compared to the vividness of HDMI.


----------



## surfit




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *silent_man* /forum/post/13736772
> 
> 
> Hello! I've been using my 960 without incident since 2005 (this is actually my first post since registering specifically to do research on the 960 back then!), but recently it's developed an intermittent issue: Basically it looks like the TV turns off then on again in a split second, almost like a flicker or pop (and makes a noise similar to when you turn it off). It doesn't seem like it's actually powering off, as no onscreen text or input label ever appears. It's like the screen blinks and then everything is fine. The original warranty expired last September and I never got around to extending it with Sony. I'm assuming it's too late to purchase any further warranty coverage from them, so I'm a bit worried that this might turn into something worse. Any idea what might be happening here?



silent_man: I think your set is experiencing the same thing as my Sony 34XBR970 - high voltage arcing. My set is 1 3/4 years old. I thought it was because I had a large stereo speaker next to my set causing the set to constantly degauss itself. I moved the speaker away and am still getting the anomaly. Sony suggested to uplug the set for a minute but that did not help. I plan to call Sony for service. The picture is fine. But the screen flash is annoying and I fear the arcing is doing damage. Let me know what you find out to be the root cause (and the cost to repair).


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/13756006
> 
> 
> Yes, I have the audio directly going to my dolby digital receiver via optical fom the SA 8300 DVR. Was hoping 5.1 could be output from the 960 so I wouldn't have to change the box's audio setting from HDMI to Dolby Digital when switching from the TV speakers to the receiver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do, big time.
> 
> 
> Before getting the DVR, picture quality from component did match that of HDMI, however, my adjustments were based on visual observations without the aid of HD test patterns. With the DVR, I was able to store the HD test patterns from the old INHD onto it's hard drive; used in conjunction with blue-filter glasses, it enabled me to precisely adjust the settings for each input (different settings were required for each input). Black level, contrast, color and sharpness for component could not be improved to the fine degree as was HDMI -- component seemed dull compared to the vividness of HDMI.



The difference could be due to the low quality of the video DAC and decoder built in to your DVR. Even though the 960 is High Defintion, The tube is an analogue device and digital signals still require decoding. The decoder and DAC in the KD-34XBR960 is probably better than the one in the TiVo you use. Higher end DVD players (or maybe Oppo?) will have better quality video dacs and will look just as good as the 960's HDMI or possibly better over a component connection.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *8086* /forum/post/13759913
> 
> 
> The difference could be due to the low quality of the video DAC and decoder built in to your DVR. Even though the 960 is High Defintion, The tube is an analogue device and digital signals still require decoding. The decoder and DAC in the KD-34XBR960 is probably better than the one in the TiVo you use. Higher end DVD players (or maybe Oppo?) will have better quality video dacs and will look just as good as the 960's HDMI or possibly better over a component connection.



FYI - use the SA 8300 HD DVR from my cable provider.


Should have mentioned that when first getting the 960, we had the SA 4200 HD Box only and that's when we noticed little difference between component and HDMI. When we got the SA 8300 HD DVR we immediately noticed a stonger picture (probably due to a higher quality built-in tuner). Again, after recording the INHD test patterns we experimented between both inputs and that's when a difference between the two was found.


----------



## Wilds

I picked up my first HDTV today, the 34XBR910, and I can't be happier! It was an ebay buy with local pickup in Derry NH. The television appears mint and the picture is as good as the reviews! What a great fraternity to be a part of! No questions yet, but I'll know where to search when I do.


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wilds* /forum/post/13789142
> 
> 
> I picked up my first HDTV today, the 34XBR910, and I can't be happier! It was an ebay buy with local pickup in Derry NH. The television appears mint and the picture is as good as the reviews! What a great fraternity to be a part of! No questions yet, but I'll know where to search when I do.



Congratulations and welcome to the club.

If you are using an antenna, it's a good idea to scan for digital channels prior to viewing; every once and a while I will find a new station that way and occasionally pick up new channels from 100 miles away that I had never seen before in analogue or digital. Anyhow, you are correct this TV awesome and in the years to come it may become somewhat of coveted legend, similar to the way we covet vintage tube audio equipment or old Marantz receivers. Sony just hasn't been the same or quite as good since they discontinued the 960.


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wilds* /forum/post/13789142
> 
> 
> I picked up my first HDTV today, the 34XBR910, and I can't be happier! It was an ebay buy with local pickup in Derry NH. The television appears mint and the picture is as good as the reviews! What a great fraternity to be a part of! No questions yet, but I'll know where to search when I do.



Congrats, you have got a great HDTV.


----------



## Wilds

Thanks for the tips. I'm not OTA yet, but perhaps in the near future. Funny you should mention the old tube amps, I've got a Sansui QR-6500! And I'm a CRT Projector guy.... Barco Data 800!


----------



## dusemike

I'm selling my xbr960 tube is only 9 months old pm me.brooklyn new york area..


----------



## alwayswantmore

How can it possibly only be 9 months old when that tv sold about 3-5 years ago?


Watch out everyone. Looks like a scam!


----------



## CODES1

Just Bought A 34xbr960 With STANd 2 Yrs Old In Mint Condition Off Of Craiglist For 400.00 Dollars, Am In The Process Of Hooking It Up To A Sony V444es Receiver,and A Panasonic S97, Hope It Works As Well As All The Coments I Have Been Seeing,i Am A Newbie To This Hd Stuff !!!


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Congratulations to the two newest owners of probably the best HD set around. While there have been vast improvements over the past few years, a used, three-year old KD34XBR960 in perfect working condition is still better than any new plasma, lcd or rear-projection set just out of the box.


Enjoy and expect to have your jaws drop in awe!


----------



## dusemike

the tube was replaced under warranty 9 months ago the first tube's coating was coming off so it was replaced by sony..


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dusemike* /forum/post/13795733
> 
> 
> the tube was replaced under warranty 9 months ago the first tube's coating was coming off so it was replaced by sony..




But was it replaced with another super-fine pitch tube or the one later used for the 970, which is not super-fine pitch?


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/13796851
> 
> 
> But was it replaced with another super-fine pitch tube or the one later used for the 970, which is not super-fine pitch?



I fear the worst....


----------



## mjrtoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/13795470
> 
> 
> Congratulations to the two newest owners of probably the best HD set around. While there have been vast improvements over the past few years, a used, three-year old KD34XBR960 in perfect working condition is still better than any new plasma, lcd or rear-projection set just out of the box.
> 
> 
> Enjoy and expect to have your jaws drop in awe!



I would agree that the picture is better, but not sure that I think a 34" television can be compared on the same level as a 50" or larger set. Don't get me wrong, I love the TV, but my new 62" which is nearly 4 times larger is far very impressive.


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjrtoo* /forum/post/13800690
> 
> 
> I would agree that the picture is better, but not sure that I think a 34" television can be compared on the same level as a 50" or larger set. Don't get me wrong, I love the TV, but my new 62" which is nearly 4 times larger is far very impressive.



I would have to agree.. My 34XBR960 has a great picture but it literally pales in comparison to my latest 50" Kuro plasma. The plasma is far more vibrant, crisper and has amazing black levels even in a dark room which doesnt leave a lot to the CRT's advantage (other than slightly better color accuracy) I also love the perfect corner to corner focus which is something that always stuck out like a sore thumb on my XBR960 when using PC or Video games.


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/13795470
> 
> 
> Congratulations to the two newest owners of probably the best HD set around. While there have been vast improvements over the past few years, a used, three-year old KD34XBR960 in perfect working condition is still better than any new plasma, lcd or rear-projection set just out of the box.
> 
> 
> Enjoy and expect to have your jaws drop in awe!




I would agree with you up to about 99%. I have seen the latest generation Kuro Plasmas, perticualarly the 60" Elite model blows my calibrated KD-34XBR960 away. Since testing the Kuro, I now belive the 960 is the second best set on the market where price is no object. Costs considered, the 960 cannot be beat and the Panasonic Viera is the next best thing for the frugal minded.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi all,


Please don't get me wrong. I know if I didn't have the 960, I certainly would not be unhappy with a top-level Pioneer, or even Sony's flagship LCDs. And like others, I do get annoyed with the slight geometric distoration in the corners, one of the disadvantages of a CRT (even if only really visable on video games). Also saw that the new Pioneer line gets owner ratings as high as the 960 so it's obvioulsy a great set.


However, regarding the question of CRT versus Plasma as related to the 960, this model does provide a perception of three-dimensional depth that flat screens are not (by nature) able to and still produces the highest black level and color accurary available. Also, found something interesting written about CRT and Plasma regarding actual 1080i resolution:



"CRT actually has higher resolution ...


if you compare it using pixels (the same calculation can be made)


1,080 scan lines x 1,920 pixels/line = 2,073,600 pixels for CRT


With plasma screens, you must consider their "native" or "addressable" resolution. This is the maximum number of built-in pixels which they can display. With the Sony KZ-42TS1, its maximum native resolution is 1,024 lines by 1,024 pixels. Let's do the math again:


1,024 lines x 1,024 pixels = 1,048,576 pixels


Strictly speaking, only half of an interlaced image is displayed by

the TV at any one moment. Using our current HDTV example of 2 million

pixels, the TV only offers 1 million pixels at a time.


Disregarding our persistence of vision (the phosfers are acutually "on" for more than one scan line) , one could argue that only half of the available pixels are shown, and thus claim that the CRT TV only delivers half of the potential resolution. But in truth - it is not true.


The highest progressive scan resolution from an HDTV set is 780 lines. (disregarding 1080p - which is not so common yet) ...

With 1,920 pixels per line, this gives us an approximate total of 1.5

million pixels. So, for a moment -- look *real* fast -- a progressive scan display could theoretically offer more resolution than an interlaced display."



This is too technical for me and feel it's like trying to argue which is better, a BMW or a Lexus (which I wouldn't know, since all I can afford is a Saturn). But it is interesting.


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/13805282
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> Please don't get me wrong. I know if I didn't have the 960, I certainly would not be unhappy with a top-level Pioneer, or even Sony's flagship LCDs. And like others, I do get annoyed with the slight geometric distoration in the corners, one of the disadvantages of a CRT (even if only really visable on video games). Also saw that the new Pioneer line gets owner ratings as high as the 960 so it's obvioulsy a great set.
> 
> 
> However, regarding the question of CRT versus Plasma as related to the 960, this model does provide a perception of three-dimensional depth that flat screens are not (by nature) able to and still produces the highest black level and color accurary available. Also, found something interesting written about CRT and Plasma regarding actual 1080i resolution:
> 
> 
> 
> "CRT actually has higher resolution ...
> 
> 
> if you compare it using pixels (the same calculation can be made)
> 
> 
> 1,080 scan lines x 1,920 pixels/line = 2,073,600 pixels for CRT
> 
> 
> With plasma screens, you must consider their "native" or "addressable" resolution. This is the maximum number of built-in pixels which they can display. With the Sony KZ-42TS1, its maximum native resolution is 1,024 lines by 1,024 pixels. Let's do the math again:
> 
> 
> 1,024 lines x 1,024 pixels = 1,048,576 pixels
> 
> 
> Strictly speaking, only half of an interlaced image is displayed by
> 
> the TV at any one moment. Using our current HDTV example of 2 million
> 
> pixels, the TV only offers 1 million pixels at a time.
> 
> 
> Disregarding our persistence of vision (the phosfers are acutually "on" for more than one scan line) , one could argue that only half of the available pixels are shown, and thus claim that the CRT TV only delivers half of the potential resolution. But in truth - it is not true.
> 
> 
> The highest progressive scan resolution from an HDTV set is 780 lines. (disregarding 1080p - which is not so common yet) ...
> 
> With 1,920 pixels per line, this gives us an approximate total of 1.5
> 
> million pixels. So, for a moment -- look *real* fast -- a progressive scan display could theoretically offer more resolution than an interlaced display."
> 
> 
> 
> This is too technical for me and feel it's like trying to argue which is better, a BMW or a Lexus (which I wouldn't know, since all I can afford is a Saturn). But it is interesting.



To my eyes, Live broadcasts in 1080i are noticeably much sharper and more detailed than broadcasts in 720p. Considering the high density of the pixels/lines being cram so close together, it appears to be smoother than lower resolution interlaced images like 480i.


Take a static image for example, In scan line number one and three in frame one has certain image data that will not be part of the next scan lines 2 or 4. Even though it is interlaced, more image information is being presented to you, though not at the same micro-second. 1080i is technically more detailed but does not have the smooth finish of a progressive image. Hopefully in over the next decade the governing bodies of HDTV protocol will make amendments to allow for 1080p to be simulcasted over secondary channels.


If you ask me, all channels should broadcast in 1080i and lower resolution sets can easily downgrade and deinterlace that signal and display a quasi-native resolution based on 1080i.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *8086* /forum/post/13807163
> 
> 
> To my eyes, Live broadcasts in 1080i are noticeably much sharper and more detailed than broadcasts in 720p.



Agree, big, big difference. Look at the soft pictures on FOX when broadcasting sporting events in 720p.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *8086* /forum/post/13807163
> 
> 
> If you ask me, all channels should broadcast in 1080i and lower resolution sets can easily downgrade and deinterlace that signal and display a quasi-native resolution based on 1080i.



I agree also. In theory, progressive scanning is much better for fast-moving sports than interlaced scanning, because with interlaced there's a time difference between the two fields that make up each frame. But in practice, I haven't noticed any objectionable artifacts at all with 1080i. Of course, YMMV, and other may have different opinions.


But the main purpose for my post is to point out that technical decisions are usually made by general managers and accountants, not by engineers. 720p takes up less bandwidth than 1080i. That means local stations can squeeze in another sub-channel if they switch from 720p to 1080i. And that means another revenue stream for them. Can't blame them, really, for trying to stay profitable as viewer ratings decline. But it's a shame. Even PBS switched to 720p.


Mark


----------



## RalphArch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/13805282
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> Please don't get me wrong. I know if I didn't have the 960, I certainly would not be unhappy with a top-level Pioneer, or even Sony's flagship LCDs. And like others, I do get annoyed with the slight geometric distoration in the corners, one of the disadvantages of a CRT (even if only really visable on video games). Also saw that the new Pioneer line gets owner ratings as high as the 960 so it's obvioulsy a great set.
> 
> 
> However, regarding the question of CRT versus Plasma as related to the 960, this model does provide a perception of three-dimensional depth that flat screens are not (by nature) able to and still produces the highest black level and color accurary available. Also, found something interesting written about CRT and Plasma regarding actual 1080i resolution:
> 
> 
> 
> "CRT actually has higher resolution ...
> 
> 
> if you compare it using pixels (the same calculation can be made)
> 
> 
> 1,080 scan lines x 1,920 pixels/line = 2,073,600 pixels for CRT
> 
> 
> With plasma screens, you must consider their "native" or "addressable" resolution. This is the maximum number of built-in pixels which they can display. With the Sony KZ-42TS1, its maximum native resolution is 1,024 lines by 1,024 pixels. Let's do the math again:
> 
> 
> 1,024 lines x 1,024 pixels = 1,048,576 pixels
> 
> 
> Strictly speaking, only half of an interlaced image is displayed by
> 
> the TV at any one moment. Using our current HDTV example of 2 million
> 
> pixels, the TV only offers 1 million pixels at a time.
> 
> 
> Disregarding our persistence of vision (the phosfers are acutually "on" for more than one scan line) , one could argue that only half of the available pixels are shown, and thus claim that the CRT TV only delivers half of the potential resolution. But in truth - it is not true.
> 
> 
> The highest progressive scan resolution from an HDTV set is 780 lines. (disregarding 1080p - which is not so common yet) ...
> 
> With 1,920 pixels per line, this gives us an approximate total of 1.5
> 
> million pixels. So, for a moment -- look *real* fast -- a progressive scan display could theoretically offer more resolution than an interlaced display."
> 
> 
> 
> This is too technical for me and feel it's like trying to argue which is better, a BMW or a Lexus (which I wouldn't know, since all I can afford is a Saturn). But it is interesting.




This resolution discussion seems rather off-base; probably because the original discussion appears to be about FP CRT capability; not direct views (and only the best FP CRTs (9inches) are capable of 1080p. However most FP CRTs are capable of 1080i; whereas direct view CRTs are not in the general case.


A tube CRT scans 540 lines (actually a little less normally on screen if the set has some overscan). So if a 1080i signal is coming in the SFP sets will be able to resolve 1400x540*2 for a frame (1,512,000) and non-SFP sets 850x540x2 (918000) (Fields would be ½ this number). So since its higher than the somewhat accepted 1.2 million or so the SFPs can be called full High Definition capable but the others really aren't. The numbers for a 720 p broadcast will be a little lower for an SFP set at 1280x720 (921600 - which is what's being sent and you can't squeeze out more than what the signal starts with). In the 720p case most other tubes will resolve 850x720 (612000) which would be a stretch to call HD. And these numbers give full credit for vertical resolution. I doubt that is accurate. The 1920 horizontal pixels in the 1080i signal do not really matter if a set can only resolve a fraction of the pixels (1400 SFP or 850 other direct view CRTs).


----------



## Ratman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RalphArch* /forum/post/13815071
> 
> 
> This resolution discussion seems rather off-base; probably because the original discussion appears to be about FP CRT capability; not direct views (and only the best FP CRTs (9inches) are capable of 1080p. However most FP CRTs are capable of 1080i; whereas direct view CRTs are not in the general case.



Perhaps you meant RP CRT?

Also... can you provide an example of any 1080p capable CRT (Direct, FP or RP)?


----------



## RalphArch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ratman* /forum/post/13815497
> 
> 
> Perhaps you meant RP CRT?
> 
> Also... can you provide an example of any 1080p capable CRT (Direct, FP or RP)?




Rats - I had to uncheck my ignore list to see what you said. Will get you back on it as soon as I finish this missive but you certainly reminded me why you won the singular distinction of being my only ignore member.


No - I meant FP. Sony G-90 - most other 9 inchers. Visit the CRT forum if you are really interested. A certain Mike Parker has modded an 8 inch Marquee to get 1080p but certainly stock most 8 inch CRTs don't do 1080p (Mine doesn't)


Well you are back to the cave now.


----------



## Ratman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RalphArch* /forum/post/13816428
> 
> 
> Rats - I had to uncheck my ignore list to see what you said. Will get you back on it as soon as I finish this missive but you certainly reminded me why you won the singular distinction of being my only ignore member.
> 
> 
> No - I meant FP. Sony G-90 - most other 9 inchers. Visit the CRT forum if you are really interested. A certain Mike Parker has modded an 8 inch Marquee to get 1080p but certainly stock most 8 inch CRTs don't do 1080p (Mine doesn't)
> 
> 
> Well you are back to the cave now.



Ralphie...

Please leave me in the cave. This is the "DIRECT (single tube) CRT" forum. Buh bye...


----------



## bfife

Hi,

I've had a 960 for a few years now and am looking at new sets. Does anyone have an opinion on the PQ difference between the 960 and the new Panasonic 42" Plasma (TH42PX80U)?

How does the 960 hold up against the newer plasma screens out there. I have looked in stores and my older eyes have a hard time telling without having them in the same room. I'm keeping the 960 but want a new set for another room.

Thanks for any input.

BFife.

(I will be running with DirecTV hd thru an HR21 box w/hdmi)


----------



## WJonathan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bfife* /forum/post/13857322
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I've had a 960 for a few years now and am looking at new sets. Does anyone have an opinion on the PQ difference between the 960 and the new Panasonic 42" Plasma (TH42PX80U)?
> 
> How does the 960 hold up against the newer plasma screens out there. I have looked in stores and my older eyes have a hard time telling without having them in the same room. I'm keeping the 960 but want a new set for another room.
> 
> Thanks for any input.
> 
> BFife.
> 
> (I will be running with DirecTV hd thru an HR21 box w/hdmi)



I don't understand, if you are keeping the 960, then why bother doing a comparison? If you like the plasma, buy it.


----------



## bfife




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WJonathan* /forum/post/13864372
> 
> 
> I don't understand, if you are keeping the 960, then why bother doing a comparison? If you like the plasma, buy it.



I'm asking about plasma vs 960 because I'm thinking if the plasma isnt that much better I would try to get another 960.


----------



## NateTTU

Maybe its just me and I haven't seen a properly setup plasma but my crappy old $300 27 inch CRT from Wally World looks better to me than even the Kuros. All I see when watching any other lcd or plasma technology display is lots and lots of digital noise, motion artifacts, and terrible colors. I would love to make the jump to flat panel as I'm looking for a large display for the theater room, but I just can't stand spending over 1k dollars on a TV that yields a worse picture than my current TV. Within a few years I'm wanting to transfer over my current CRT projector for a digital pj but in the mean time I'm looking for a good display (for cheap) that will satisfy the desire for a large ht display but also give an excellent picture. Once I find a good digital projector this TV would be placed into the living room and most likely only receive over the air TV so most of the time it would be standard def so standard definition/upscale performance is also key.


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NateTTU* /forum/post/13865986
> 
> 
> Maybe its just me and I haven't seen a properly setup plasma but my crappy old $300 27 inch CRT from Wally World looks better to me than even the Kuros. All I see when watching any other lcd or plasma technology display is lots and lots of digital noise, motion artifacts, and terrible colors. I would love to make the jump to flat panel as I'm looking for a large display for the theater room, but I just can't stand spending over 1k dollars on a TV that yields a worse picture than my current TV. Within a few years I'm wanting to transfer over my current CRT projector for a digital pj but in the mean time I'm looking for a good display (for cheap) that will satisfy the desire for a large ht display but also give an excellent picture. Once I find a good digital projector this TV would be placed into the living room and most likely only receive over the air TV so most of the time it would be standard def so standard definition/upscale performance is also key.



It's hard to judge plasma quality in a store in fact I was very hesitant when buying my current Pioneer 5080HD after seeing it on display, the only reason I bought it was a combination of AVS's plasma forum and the extremely positive reviews from various sources, I can tell you when you get a Kuro in your home and calibrated you'll see its possible for current plasma's to achieve even beyond CRT quality, especially when you factor in the much brighter / vibrant contrast output, combine that with its 50" screensize and deep black levels it actually makes it hard for me to watch my 34XBR960 anymore










I havent seen any motion artifacts or digital noise on the plasma that I didnt see on the CRT as well, Most of that comes from the source. Although Ive heard of motion artifact issues on current 120hz LCD's.


----------



## bbbobbb

I agree with Mathesar as well. I have a 34XBR960 and a 720P Panny plasma. Although the 42" Panny is bigger and has a damn fine picture I prefer the 34XBR most of the time.

However my little Bro's 50" Kuro plasma is better by far than either the the 34XBR or the 42" Panny. Way better, amazingly better, and if I had an extra $4K laying around I would buy the Kuro in a heartbeat.


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NateTTU* /forum/post/13865986
> 
> 
> Maybe its just me and I haven't seen a properly setup plasma but my crappy old $300 27 inch CRT from Wally World looks better to me than even the Kuros.



At least you know why


----------



## NateTTU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/13871601
> 
> 
> At least you know why



Unfortunately I have never seen a Kuro outside of a store so I can't comment on these, but I have seen a Panasonic at a friends house and it looked just as bad as in the store. Maybe I'll just go ahead and get a Kuro and set it up properly myself and make the descision once I had it for a while at home. I'm tired of my small screen and I don't want to setup the crt projector anymore, too much of a pain. Are there any B&M stores that would allow an "in home trial" and not make me pay a 15% restocking fee should I return the item? I could go for the 50'' 720p model but there would be no way I could talk my wife into letting me buy the 1080p model. Overall would it be better for me to get the Kuro 720p model vs any other top of the line 1080p model from another manufacture?


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NateTTU* /forum/post/13874197
> 
> 
> I could go for the 50'' 720p model but there would be no way I could talk my wife into letting me buy the 1080p model. Overall would it be better for me to get the Kuro 720p model vs any other top of the line 1080p model from another manufacture?



Basically yes, other than the 1080P Kuro's the 768P 5080HD Kuro produces the best image quality on the market.


Home theater had a recent 2008 HDTV roundup and even tho the 5080HD is 768P it still placed #1: (All other tv's in the roundup are 1080P): http://www.hometheatermag.com/lcds/208hdface/index.html 


They labeled it as "The new king." - http://www.hometheatermag.com/lcds/2...ce/index7.html


----------



## RM23J8G

I'm looking for a good 960....preferably in or somewhere near the Richmond, VA area. I've scanned Craigslist and the closest one to me is in WV.

PM me if you want to get rid of one!

thanks


----------



## Harvest

I picked up a 3 year old 960 with matching stand off Craigslist last week for a very good price. The seller had cared for it like a baby and I'm extremely pleased.


I had been looking at plasma monitors around town, admiring the slim lines and the brilliant displays. Still, something seemed...well...flat, dead, whatever, to me. Big pancake gobs of color, odd artifacts skittering around the fame, generally over all harsh PQ. I haven't looked at the Kuros...I can't pay that kind of money and I began to think about staying with a CRT. I've been watching a 19" NEC CT-1901A since 1984. It's still working great but my eyes are too old to stare at such a small set.


I have to say I'm really impressed with the 960. There is a quality, a depth, a 3rd dimension on this screen that just blows me away. Single tube CRT still has my heart.


----------



## PhilipO38

I'm really interested to see how that Plasma compares to the XBR960, in terms of everything. (i seen this this Plasms in store and i was not impressed as impressed with it's live feeds such as ESPN's Sportcenter in HD..but itn may have not been calibrated correctly)


Forget the size difference, because if Sony released a 50" XBR960(but it would weight 400lbs, easily) ,all of us would be blown away even more.


That Kuro Plasma has a lower rated resolution then the XBR960(which is 1400*1080i, to be exact), and it's black levels seem near identicle.


So i'm wondering how the Kuro has the better picture quality?


I can easily see if it was rated at a full 1080p, but it's lower then the XBR960.


And it's not like the XBR960 lacks great color accuracy.


Also, is there any word about a 1080p Kuro in the near future?


----------



## PhilipO38

Hey guys, let me ask you this one question:


Should i pick up a used 30" XS955 for our den/bedroom(XBR960 is in our LR now) from a local craigslist, or wait for a XBR960 to be available?


I don't want to drop $400 on the XS955, and then have a XBR960 available in a couple months for the same price. (


I thought the XS955 was exactly the same as the XBR960, however in the XS955 tread some mentioned it's PQ is not as detailed as the XBR960's.


So i'm even confused as why the XS955, which uses the same SFP tube, is not equal to the XBR960's PQ.


So guys should i pick up the XS955 or wait for a XBR960 to be available?


TIA


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PhilipO38* /forum/post/13981207
> 
> 
> I'm really interested to see how that Plasma compares to the XBR960, in terms of everything. (i seen this this Plasms in store and i was not impressed as impressed with it's live feeds such as ESPN's Sportcenter in HD..but itn may have not been calibrated correctly)
> 
> 
> Forget the size difference, because if Sony released a 50" XBR960(but it would weight 400lbs, easily) ,all of us would be blown away even more.
> 
> 
> That Kuro Plasma has a lower rated resolution then the XBR960(which is 1400*1080i, to be exact), and it's black levels seem near identicle.
> 
> 
> So i'm wondering how the Kuro has the better picture quality?
> 
> 
> I can easily see if it was rated at a full 1080p, but it's lower then the XBR960.
> 
> 
> And it's not like the XBR960 lacks great color accuracy.
> 
> 
> Also, is there any word about a 1080p Kuro in the near future?



I guess if I had to explain without going into to much detail... when comparing my XBR960 vs. Kuro 5080 the Plasma is far brighter which gives it far more "punch" or vividness, seeing them side by side really makes the CRT look dull in comparison, on the plasma everything just seems to come alive.


despite the 5080 being 1366x768 it still reveals more details and has a noticeably sharper image especially when comparing Bluray, HD material or PS3 / Xbox360 but im sure the size difference plays a role here as well.


There are other conveniences on the Kuro such as 4 HDMI inputs, user adjustable Gamma and various other picture adjustments, also the PureCinema mode smooths out camera pans on dvd's / blurays etc. beyond the fluidness you'd see even on a CRT, if you've ever seen the way 120hz LCD's handle motion this is sort of the same idea but not as pronounced.


I think the biggest wow factor is the size difference .. watching movies and playing video games on a 50" vs. 34" is a *huge* difference for the overall experience.


And yes they do make 1080P Kuro's such as the Pro-110FD ( Link )


----------



## PhilipO38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/13981739
> 
> 
> I guess if I had to explain without going into to much detail... when comparing my XBR960 vs. Kuro 5080 the Plasma is far brighter which gives it far more "punch" or vividness, seeing them side by side really makes the CRT look dull in comparison, on the plasma everything just seems to come alive.
> 
> 
> despite the 5080 being 1366x768 it still reveals more details and has a noticeably sharper image especially when comparing Bluray, HD material or PS3 / Xbox360 but im sure the size difference plays a role here as well.
> 
> 
> There are other conveniences on the Kuro such as 4 HDMI inputs, user adjustable Gamma and various other picture adjustments, also the PureCinema mode smooths out camera pans on dvd's / blurays etc. beyond the fluidness you'd see even on a CRT, if you've ever seen the way 120hz LCD's handle motion this is sort of the same idea but not as pronounced.
> 
> 
> I think the biggest wow factor is the size difference .. watching movies and playing video games on a 50" vs. 34" is a *huge* difference for the overall experience.
> 
> 
> And yes they do make 1080P Kuro's such as the Pro-110FD ( Link )



Great comparsion, thanks.


A couple questions if you may:


1)Is your XBR960 calibrated? (i have yet to have mine done, but some in this forum have said it looks dull before and sharper afterwards)


2)I think the key statement you said was:


"despite the 5080 being 1366x768 it still reveals more details and has a noticeably sharper image especially when comparing Bluray, HD material or PS3 / Xbox360 but im sure the size difference plays a role here as well."


I'm thinking the fact the pixels themselves are larger in general, shows off more detail, where for the XBR960 the pixels are smaller, and maybe it's just not as pronounced?


It would have been interesting to see a 50" XBR960 model to compare, with the same(near) pixel size.


3)The other key statment you said was:


"Kuro 5080 the Plasma is far brighter which gives it far more "punch" or vividness"


I thinking the higher contrast with the same darks levels is showing off the great color detail, which is the key to any great picture quality.


4)I thought there was a 1080p model, but i'll have to wait a while for this Plasma, as it's cost is way out of my league.


lol..At least the XBR960 has the 2nd best PQ on the market, and that's damn good for a set i payed $1500 in late 05', and it's still one of the top couple HDTV's you can find.


Great comparision and since that Kuro has better PQ, and it's larger as well, it must be jaw dropping to view.


btw: How does the Kuro look with games? And ghosting/blurring or other flat panel problems? Or is it the equal of CRT's, in those qualities?


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PhilipO38* /forum/post/13981256
> 
> 
> Hey guys, let me ask you this one question:
> 
> 
> Should i pick up a used 30" XS955 for our den/bedroom(XBR960 is in our LR now) from a local craigslist, or wait for a XBR960 to be available?
> 
> 
> I don't want to drop $400 on the XS955, and then have a XBR960 available in a couple months for the same price. (
> 
> 
> I thought the XS955 was exactly the same as the XBR960, however in the XS955 tread some mentioned it's PQ is not as detailed as the XBR960's.
> 
> 
> So i'm even confused as why the XS955, which uses the same SFP tube, is not equal to the XBR960's PQ.
> 
> 
> So guys should i pick up the XS955 or wait for a XBR960 to be available?
> 
> 
> TIA



Get the XS955. I have both with the 30" in the bedroom. PQ is outstanding on both with the 960 having the edge in HD but the 955 has the edge on SD.


----------



## GlenC

Comparing the 5080 to the 960 is not the way to go, compare the 5010 to the 960 and the 5080 to the 970.


The color accuracy on the XBR, when calibrated, is absolutely great! When you go to Plasma, you get "BIGGER" along with perfect geometry and same resolution/focus/convergence across the entire screen. Color is not quite as accurate as the CRT. For a bedroom you can also consider the Panasonic 42" 1920x1080 Plasma (consumes much less real estate).


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ratman* /forum/post/13815497
> 
> 
> Perhaps you meant RP CRT?
> 
> Also... can you provide an example of any 1080p capable CRT (Direct, FP or RP)?



Sony GDM-FW900 has an Optimal progressive scanned 8:5 resolution of 1920*1200.


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/13982409
> 
> 
> Get the XS955. I have both with the 30" in the bedroom. PQ is outstanding on both with the 960 having the edge in HD but the 955 has the edge on SD.



Are you sure that the difference in PQ is not simply due to calibration and/or screen size?


HD should be identical between xbr960 and xs955 since they have the same guts when it comes to HD.


For SD, xbr960 should pull ahead slightly because it has more advanced DRC(I have more options to fine tune SD signal on my xbr 960 than on my xbr970). I believe that the DRC in xbr970 is identical to one in xs955. The difference in SD picture between two sets is rather small though, so it should not be a major criteria when choosing between models.


----------



## PhilipO38

My 4yr old son is autistic and he would have scratched up this XBR960 in sec's if i was not directing him to not do so, just earlier today.


We're thinking it's actually best to put the XBR960 in the den, and make that a gaming/HT room of sorts. It makes sense since i can darken it up easier and it's enclosed for good 5.1 sound, for both gaming(X360 & PS3) and movie(DVD upscaled and BR) watching. And in that smaller room, it does feel like a 46"/50" is inside it..lol


Our son owns our LR, so i'm not even sure if putting in a $400 XS955 even makes sense, as i can find a cheaper $150 Philip's 30" used instead.


But for company and the occasional time we do use the LR at all(when he sleeps..lol), the XS955 seems like the right fit, and we can use another SFP HDTV, just incase of anything.


We just need to make sure he does not scratch it up or damage it.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SwiftSweeper* /forum/post/13983106
> 
> 
> Are you sure that the difference in PQ is not simply due to calibration and/or screen size?
> 
> 
> HD should be identical between xbr960 and xs955 since they have the same guts when it comes to HD.
> 
> 
> For SD, xbr960 should pull ahead slightly because it has more advanced DRC(I have more options to fine tune SD signal on my xbr 960 than on my xbr970). I believe that the DRC in xbr970 is identical to one in xs955. The difference in SD picture between two sets is rather small though, so it should not be a major criteria when choosing between models.



Both sets have been ISF calibrated, albeit a few years ago. Running Verizon Fios for SD/HD signal. Have a Denon 3910 and PS3 hooked up to the 960 and a Sony HTIB on the 955.


I agree they should be the same on HD but they are not when comparing an HD/SD signals from Fios. There can be several factors attributing to this including the 3 flights of steps I have to go up and down to compare the picture.


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GlenC* /forum/post/13982665
> 
> 
> Comparing the 5080 to the 960 is not the way to go, compare the 5010 to the 960 and the 5080 to the 970.



I was comparing a 960 to 5080 because I own both sets.


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PhilipO38* /forum/post/13981959
> 
> 
> 
> btw: How does the Kuro look with games? And ghosting/blurring or other flat panel problems? Or is it the equal of CRT's, in those qualities?



Fantastic.. Gaming was my main concern when buying this set and I couldn't be happier, During the first couple months you could see some phosphor lag during motion but this effect has reduced over the last 5 months, I was told this would happen over time as the plasma broke in, You can still barely see this effect depending on the game or colors but it is very minimal and doesn't come off as 'blurring' like you'd see on an LCD.


One other concern of mine was input lag associated with flat panels, luckily the Kuro has a "game control" option which when enabled reduces input lag to negligible levels. Coming from a CRT I could feel a *slight* lag with this option disabled but when enabled I cant feel any lag whatsoever and the picture quality is unaffected from what I can tell.


As for burn in / image retention I havent experienced any issues here in fact I dont treat the plasma any different from my CRT here .. All three current consoles have there own burn in protection or screen savers that kick in after extended game pause etc. and top that off with the Kuro's own 'orbiter' feature which greatly reduces the chances of burnin on its own.


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/13984372
> 
> 
> Both sets have been ISF calibrated, albeit a few years ago. Running Verizon Fios for SD/HD signal. Have a Denon 3910 and PS3 hooked up to the 960 and a Sony HTIB on the 955.
> 
> 
> I agree they should be the same on HD but they are not when comparing an HD/SD signals from Fios. There can be several factors attributing to this including the 3 flights of steps I have to go up and down to compare the picture.



I see. I think that both xs955 and xbr960 are great sets when it comes to PQ, so people should not get stuck looking for xbr960 only and look for both models if they want SFP HDTV. Xbr 960 has few extra bells and whistles(twin view, more advanced DRC, and i.link), but these extra features would not be important to most people nowdays.


----------



## Ennui

I thought the 960 was the only TV with SFP tube.


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ennui* /forum/post/13986686
> 
> 
> I thought the 960 was the only TV with SFP tube.



Nope, there is also xbr910 and previously mentioned xs955.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/13981739
> 
> 
> I guess if I had to explain without going into to much detail... when comparing my XBR960 vs. Kuro 5080 the Plasma is far brighter which gives it far more "punch" or vividness, seeing them side by side really makes the CRT look dull in comparison, on the plasma everything just seems to come alive.



Talking about a more vivid and brighter picture, I remember once reading an article in a HD magazine that stated that too much brightness and/or contrast sacrifices the deeper color saturation, balanced contrast range between bright and dark areas and depth perception necessary for a properly defined high defintion picture. The article concluded that while it might look impressive, the picture won't actually appear the way it should be (i.e., like the way the contrast is adjusted too high in stores to appear more vivid).


Now, the other day I was floored by the brighter and sharper detail on a flat screen in my doctor's office (he was getting a direct HD feed from one of those medical channels seen in waiting rooms). I felt depressed thinking flat screen technology indeed surpassed that of the 960 CRT. When I got home I decided to experiment and adjusted my user settings (also changing from "pro" to the "standard" type picture) and was successful in reaching the equivalent brightness and sharpness levels seen earlier that day. But then I remembered the article and realized the author was right; what was seen in the office and now on my 960 lacked the rich color and more natural picture I was used to seeing.


My original user settings were achieved with HD test patterns (I've also done some service callibrations as per suggestions by others in this forum). The newer settings showed that picture and brightness were off and that the exact shade of blue (with the use of blue filter glasses) could not be achieved.


Since Plasma is almost equal to the dark level and color saturation of a CRT, it (of course) might be more a matter of individual preference rather than actual performance differences between the two models. But keep in mind that user adjustments not set properly can give an impressive but incorrect picture on any HD unit. This might be why you see such a difference between your two sets.


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/13987477
> 
> 
> Talking about a more vivid and brighter picture, I remember once reading an article in a HD magazine that stated that too bright a picture might appear more vivid but at the sacrifice of deeper color saturation, wider contrast range between bright and dark areas and depth perception.



I know what your talking about ive seen it with just about any LCD, but its not an issue with Kuro plasma's, One of Kuro's strongest points is deep / rich color saturation thanks to excellent black levels.

*"contrast ratio is 10,645:1. This is above and beyond any other flat panel on the market, by far. In fact, there are only a few displays of any type on the market that can boast this kind of contrast ratio without "dynamic" helpers such as irises or adjustable backlights, and all of them are front projectors.


Even the vaunted CRT would find it difficult to beat this beast, as CRTs had notoriously bad ANSI contrast measurements (although, admittedly, the best had an immeasurably low black level).*


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/13988059
> 
> 
> I know what your talking about ive seen it with just about any LCD, but its not an issue with Kuro plasma's, One of Kuro's strongest points is deep / rich color saturation thanks to excellent black levels.
> 
> *"contrast ratio is 10,645:1. This is above and beyond any other flat panel on the market, by far. In fact, there are only a few displays of any type on the market that can boast this kind of contrast ratio without "dynamic" helpers such as irises or adjustable backlights, and all of them are front projectors.
> 
> 
> Even the vaunted CRT would find it difficult to beat this beast, as CRTs had notoriously bad ANSI contrast measurements (although, admittedly, the best had an immeasurably low black level).*



Hi,


Seems I edited my post as you were responding to it.










My thoughts were more about Plasma and CRT technology in general. Since their specifications so closely match each other, plus the fact that you are lucky enough to own both the reference standard CRT and Plasma sets, there should not be such a difference in vividness, even with a contrast ratio of 10,645:1 (there is only a limit to how much is necessary).


That's why I alluded to picture adjustments with too much color and contrast that create too vivid a picture that is impressive but not accurate (as seen in the stores). Do you have any HD test patterns to be sure both units are set to the proper levels of contrast, brightness, etc? Other than size, the picture quality should be similar (although a CRT provides more three-dimensional depth perception and the plasma a perfect geometry).


No doubt, you have the best of both worlds! Congrats.


----------



## PhilipO38

Guys, here's one of the newest Panasonic Plasma's, i'm wondering how it compares to the XBR960 in overall PQ.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....#productdetail 


Your thoughts?


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Are CRTs making a comeback? See attached.

http://bits.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/0...ture-tube-tvs/


----------



## PhilipO38

Guys,


What happens if my XBR960 just bites it(as i knock wood, that it does not), how much am i looking at to repair it? And more importantly, do repair shops still fix up these CRT's?


We don't have the money to buy say a Panasonic or Pioneer 1080p Plasma, at least not for a year or so.


The warranty is now(we bought it in nov 05') over, so this is worrying me now.


TIA


----------



## TeeJay1952




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PhilipO38* /forum/post/14017777
> 
> 
> Guys,
> 
> 
> What happens if my XBR960 just bites it(as i knock wood, that it does not), how much am i looking at to repair it? And more importantly, do repair shops still fix up these CRT's?
> 
> 
> We don't have the money to buy say a Panasonic or Pioneer 1080p Plasma, at least not for a year or so.
> 
> 
> The warranty is now(we bought it in nov 05') over, so this is worrying me now.
> 
> 
> TIA



Make sure you unplug from wall for 10 minutes and then plug in. I lost all digital stations from cable and over the air. I called for warranty work and the lady on phone said to unhook plug. I LOL but did it and it worked. It resets the computer within (I guess)


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TeeJay1952* /forum/post/14019158
> 
> 
> Make sure you unplug from wall for 10 minutes and then plug in. I lost all digital stations from cable and over the air. I called for warranty work and the lady on phone said to unhook plug. I LOL but did it and it worked. It resets the computer within (I guess)




Same thing happened to me once or twice - red light would flash but then nothing. Unplugging it between five and ten minutes did the trick. Was told by a Sony service representative that the 960 acts like a computer and sometimes has to be "re-booted".


I didn't go for the extended warranty either -- the cost was a few hundred dollars for no more than two years and in the long run it would be more expensive paying for an extended warranty than the repair job itself.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

I recently changed the black level output of my DVD player from "normal" to "darker" and re-adjusted the user settings in accordance with the THX Optomizer. The picture is now a little more crisper, however, with the 960's brightness level set higher (from 32 to 37 to compensate for the darker input) when the player is off, the black screen for the appropriate input is brighter than others. Am I correct this is simply due to the higher brightness setting?


----------



## PhilipO38

Guys,


My main HDTV is the XBR960, and i'm wondering if anyone knows what the specs are for it's HDMI input.


Is it 1.2?


I'm guessing it cannot be 1.3, because that became a standard in June of 2006'.


One more thing, if i have product that outputs a feature of HDMI 1.3(say the PS3 with deep color), if the XBR960 has only a HDMI 1.2 port, then i won't see this feature.


Is that correct?


TIA


Phil


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PhilipO38* /forum/post/14029985
> 
> 
> Guys,
> 
> 
> My main HDTV is the XBR960, and i'm wondering if anyone knows what the specs are for it's HDMI input.
> 
> 
> Is it 1.2?
> 
> 
> I'm guessing it cannot be 1.3, because that became a standard in June of 2006'.
> 
> 
> One more thing, if i have product that outputs a feature of HDMI 1.3(say the PS3 with deep color), if the XBR960 has only a HDMI 1.2 port, then i won't see this feature.
> 
> 
> Is that correct?
> 
> 
> TIA
> 
> 
> Phil



The service manual lists the Sil9993CTG100 as the HDMI interface IC. The data sheet for this IC indicates HDMI 1.0.


----------



## PhilipO38




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/14030130
> 
> 
> The service manual lists the Sil9993CTG100 as the HDMI interface IC. The data sheet for this IC indicates HDMI 1.0.



Thank you very much.

(if you have the url, i'd reaslly appreciate if you listed it)


So let me get this correct, since it's HDMI 1.0, even if i hooked up a HDMI device that was V1.3 compliant, the XBR960 would not be able to handle any of it's added support features such as Deep Color.


Is this correct?


TIA


----------



## sebadooo

Someone in my area is offering me the XBR960 for $300. When asked when they purchased it, they said in 2004. Is there anything I should know about this early batch? I hounded them with questions and they said "I've never noticed anything that a normal person would know about." I asked so many questions he apparently thought I was a TV repair man.


----------



## wbrett

Poor dude is thinking 'damn I just want to sell a tv'!


----------



## sebadooo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wbrett* /forum/post/14076746
> 
> 
> Poor dude is thinking 'damn I just want to sell a tv'!



You're probably right. But for $300 and a trip to NYC from New Haven, CT, I'd rather have $300 in my pocket than a high-end TV with excessive overscan, and whatever else can go wrong.


I work in the A/V installation business, and we have a Sony repair place who said they'd fix the well documented - won't turn on problem, for $30. But I'm just wondering what else can go wrong.


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sebadooo* /forum/post/14076990
> 
> 
> You're probably right. But for $300 and a trip to NYC from New Haven, CT, I'd rather have $300 in my pocket than a high-end TV with excessive overscan, and whatever else can go wrong.
> 
> 
> I work in the A/V installation business, and we have a Sony repair place who said they'd fix the well documented - won't turn on problem, for $30. But I'm just wondering what else can go wrong.



Some of the earlier xbr960s can have cold tuner problem, but this is the only common problem that you need to be concerned about as far as I know.


----------



## BeachComber

I think you are fooling yourself if you think this is the only issue.


The Sony XBR picture tubes have always been prone to issue (especially over time) and there are more and more apeture screens failing and at $1500 plus labor this isn't exactly a cheap fix.


I recently had to go through 4 brand new picture tubes to find one that worked properly.


And we haven't even gotten close to talking about all the convergence issues.


I am not denying that the working 960s look incredible - but there are plenty more 960s that have issues than do not.


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/14086796
> 
> 
> I think you are fooling yourself if you think this is the only issue.



I never meant that cold tuner problem is the only thing that could go wrong... Like any electronic device, there are many potential things that could go wrong obviously. However, cold tuner and the TV not turning up(early batch only for cold tuner) are two of the most *common* problems with these sets as far as I know.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/14086796
> 
> 
> The Sony XBR picture tubes have always been prone to issue (especially over time) and there are more and more apeture screens failing and at $1500 plus labor this isn't exactly a cheap fix.



Increase in failure rate as time goes on would be true for majority electronic/mechanic devices though, and I am not exactly sure why xbr tag would negatively affect the reliability of the tv since it is just the tag that Sony uses for their upper lever HDTVs. Granted, I do not think that the build quality on XBRs is any better than or non XBRs. $1500 to fix the set is out the question when one can probably find another used one for $500 and under given enough persistence.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/14086796
> 
> 
> I recently had to go through 4 brand new picture tubes to find one that worked properly.



I am sorry to hear that. I have two Sony Trinitrons (both XBRs), and I am very happy with their performance, so it might be just bad luck.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/14086796
> 
> 
> And we haven't even gotten close to talking about all the convergence issues.



Sure, covergence can be annoying. There are also geometry, overscan, focus problems on the sides of the screen, and so on. However, these are drawbacks of tube technology in general, so they are common to all tubes(especially big ones). I believe that if these things bother the viewer too much, then, another display technology will be a better choice. Granted, other technologies have their own drawbacks as well.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/14086796
> 
> 
> I am not denying that the working 960s look incredible - but *there are plenty more 960s that have issues than do not*.



Do you have any proof to back this up?


----------



## WJonathan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/14086796
> 
> 
> I think you are fooling yourself if you think this is the only issue.
> 
> 
> The Sony XBR picture tubes have always been prone to issue (especially over time) and there are more and more apeture screens failing and at $1500 plus labor this isn't exactly a cheap fix.
> 
> 
> I recently had to go through 4 brand new picture tubes to find one that worked properly.
> 
> 
> And we haven't even gotten close to talking about all the convergence issues.
> 
> 
> I am not denying that the working 960s look incredible - but there are plenty more 960s that have issues than do not.



But that's true of every CRT ever produced. It's no more of a problem with the 960 than with any other make or model CRT. We've just started noticing these defects in the HD era as we expect "perfect" picture quality.


----------



## Harvest

As I posted a few pages back, I recently picked up a gently used 960 with matching stand off Craigslist for cheap. There is a slight issue at the edge of the frame where one corner dips down just a "skosh" but, truthfully, I really don't care. Mostly I'm too busy marveling at the old school film-like PQ , rich tones, and robust dimensionality to care if a corner isn't mathematically perfect. In my perverted way I even sort of enjoy the slight imperfection. Of course I paid a mere fraction of what these beauties went for just a few years ago...and had I forked over the MSRP at the time I might have felt very different.


Like another poster commented, if my 960 eventually goes south, I can just replace it with another 400.00 Craigslist buy. My last high end CRT lasted 22 years. If the 960 makes it half that long I'm happy and by then, I will be able to buy into a very high quality upgrade for a very modest price tag. My biggest worry is how the hell will I recycle this beast once it finally dies. I can just imagine these big tube TVs costing 200 for the local recyclers to carry off.


----------



## myhui

Nowadays you can get 8GB memorysticks, so a long movie can fit. I heard that the 960N will play MPEG2 transport stream found in a file on the memorystick. Is that true?


----------



## RM23J8G

I just picked up a nice 960, but it didn't have the manual or the remote. I'm trying to switch the tuner to "antenna" from "cable", and can't seem to find it in the menus anywhere.

I don't have cable here...only OTA. What's the trick for getting it out of "cable" mode?

Thanks..


----------



## wbrett

It's been a while but I think the VIDEO (or maybe it's TV/VIDEO) button cycles to the ANT. If not then I think there is an ANT. button on the remote. Anyway it's on the remote and you don't need to get into the menus.


----------



## RM23J8G

Thanks....I got it. The "Channel Fix" was the problem!


----------



## georgegreer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *myhui* /forum/post/14100747
> 
> 
> Nowadays you can get 8GB memorysticks, so a long movie can fit. I heard that the 960N will play MPEG2 transport stream found in a file on the memorystick. Is that true?



I play MPEG2 videos on a Memory Stick on the 960, but regardless of the frame size in pixels, it seems like they all play in an area about 1/4 the size of the screen, so around 640 X 480 pixels. You can enlarge it to full screen, but it's very low-res. I've done this only with videos recorded on my digital still camera and then converted to MPEG2. I had to tweak the conversion settings to get the sound to play at all, but the sound is fine.


It's handy for watching Internet .flv Flash videos (YouTube, etc.) after conversion to MPEG2. Those are usually 320 X 160, but look OK on the small screen. For multiple chapter YouTube videos, play them as a slide show with no transition, and it works well.


----------



## RalphArch

In another thread/conversation someone mentioned that for my set (36kd955xs) the manual indicates compatibility of up to 1 gig for memory sticks - and he couldn't get a pro-duo 4 gig to work at all.


Do these work on your sets (bigger than 1 gig)? I went out and bought a 1 gig last week (they are getting harder and harder to find as almost all are bigger than this) so that I knew at least it worked on my set since I had tried one this size from a Sony Camera.


Just curious in case it works for you and I was willing to experiment with both bigger than 1 gig and also the higher speed memory sticks in my set (which is the same vintage as the 960 but some lesser features - although maybe the same memory stick software/hardware).


----------



## georgegreer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *myhui* /forum/post/14100747
> 
> 
> Nowadays you can get 8GB memorysticks, so a long movie can fit. I heard that the 960N will play MPEG2 transport stream found in a file on the memorystick. Is that true?



My earlier reply was in error: the 960 manual says you can only view MPEG1 files, not MPEG2. I use AVS Video Converter (~$25) to convert a Flash (low kbps stream) video with these settings:


Video: MPEG1, Bitrate 718 kbps, Framerate 25, Frame Original (usually 320 X 160); Audio: Bitrate 64 kbps


I use these settings to convert from a video from my Panasonic Limix digital camera (higher kbps stream):


Video: MPEG1, 4500 kbps, 30 fps, Original frame size (usually 640 X 480 or 848 X 480); Audio: 64 kbps


Both work fine, but only show at their size in the middle of the screen. I seem to remember trying a larger pixel frame size, but the size on the screen not being in bigger, so doubt full size DVD or HDTV videos would show full screen. Also, there seems to be limit to how fast it can feed images to the screen, as it can't take the newest high speed Memory Sticks. But it's great for watching downloaded Internet videos where they can be watched from the comfort of a TV viewing room.


----------



## georgegreer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *georgegreer* /forum/post/14113790
> 
> 
> I use AVS Video Converter (~$25) to convert a Flash (low kbps stream) video with these settings:
> 
> 
> Video: MPEG1, Bitrate 718 kbps, Framerate 25, Frame Original (usually 320 X 160); Audio: Bitrate 64 kbps



Actually, the AVS Video Converter didn't do Flash files. See my earlier post for how to convert Flash videos, and the 1 GB Memory Stick I use:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...o#post13039684 


As a test, I just tried playing a 1280 X 960 MPEG1, 10,000 kbps file (converted from a 640 X 480 file from my digital camera) on Memory Stick. I selected "Enlarge", and it looked pretty good full screen. I don't have any HDTV 1920 X 1080 files to test, but maybe they would look good with the "Enlarge" setting in Memory Stick mode.


----------



## tvh3ad

I'm selling my XBR960.


Set was purchased new in Nov 04, ISF'd in 05 after break-in, and has seen light but regular use since then.


Set is just about perfect in every way -- no scratches or other cosmetic issues, good convergence and geometry, no focus problems, no cold tuner, etc.


Extended warranty from Sony good through Nov 09.


Boston area.


PM me if interested.


----------



## gateway8575









Hi does anybody have the original Landing Settings that came with the TV. I messed-up mine's I tried to fix them with the service manual but they just made things worst.


Your input is appreciated!


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gateway8575* /forum/post/14122233
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi does anybody have the original Landing Settings that came with the TV.



Here are mine, which are unaltered from how they came from the factory. Parenthetical values are the service manual defaults.


LT 0-255 158 (127)

LB 0-255 134 (127)

RT 0-255 77 (127)

RB 0-255 77 (127)

EWSP 0-15 5

ENSW 0,1 0

TESW 0,1 0

DHMT 0,1 0

LDVM 0-3 0

LVSW 0,1 0

LVPH 0-255 83 (127)

HSZO 0-15 0

SLNO 0-15 0

MPNO 0-15 0

PINO 0-15 0


----------



## ClayPigeon

Hey Dsperber, i noticed when checking my landing settings a while back on my xbr970 those geometry settings in there like pino, slno, Hszo, etc. Any ideas as to why they are there? do they differ from the normal geometry settings? and should those ones be left alone unless there is some sort of color impurity problem? I didn't notice any difference from the normal ones when changing.


----------



## ClayPigeon

Also you bring up a good point without mentioning it as to how the defaults in the service manual can be different from how each of OUR sets came from the factory. My landing settings are different then the defaults as well. So in actuality even the default settings may or may not help







I guess most of the geometry settings follow the default, unless when setting up the screen they notice something really out of whack, they fix it. But with things like landing settings they go through and correct any color impurities they see. Just for comparison on my xbr970 my landing settings are.


LT-127

LB-127

RT-127

RB-151

EWSP-5

ENSW-0

DHMT-0

LDVM-0

LVSW-0

LVPH-65

HSZO-0

SLNO-0

MPNO-0

PINO-0


----------



## TomGreen321

Jeez, I can't even imagine how good the 960's are, I just picked up a 30hs420 for 170 and it is blowing me away. I've had 6 or 7 HD sets this year, and this is ridiculous. I wish I had gotten a few when they came out.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ClayPigeon* /forum/post/14124562
> 
> 
> Hey Dsperber, i noticed when checking my landing settings a while back on my xbr970 those geometry settings in there like pino, slno, Hszo, etc. Any ideas as to why they are there? do they differ from the normal geometry settings? and should those ones be left alone unless there is some sort of color impurity problem?



No idea. I certainly didn't adjust any items in this group when tweaking the geometry on my 34XBR960.


I'm sure the pre-adjusted (from the factory) values which differ from so-called "service manual defaults" are the result of bench checking that goes on before the sets leave the factory. The service manual defaults are clearly nothing more than pre-loaded starting ROM values but since each picture tube (and associated electronics) is unique they obviously do a true test/adjustment at the factory for each and every set before boxing it up. The service manual defaults, for many items, have little to no relevance it seems based on how far away from service manual defaults they are.


----------



## larrydart

Hello everyone. I'm horribly embarrassed about this! Please be gentle







!


Service menu open, making recommended adjustments as per other posts, everything going smoothly. Then out of misread of service manual or shear animal stupidity, I do the 7 + 9 + enter thing, "Reset of system NVM data" (I take NVM to mean 'non-volatile memory'). At once, everything goes to hell, all reasonable deflection is lost and things go into wild overscan/pincushion. I am able to fight the HDMI input back to view-ability with crosshatch on a DVD and the default settings, so all well there on input 7. On all other inputs including RF, deflection is largely collapsed and color balance is lost, even though settings for 2170-D-1, 2, 3 are numerically correct (4x3 image in normal screen mode runs the entire width of the screen and is only about 1/2 vertical height, very green in low-lights). Also, oddly enough, HD reception via CablaCard is lost as well. So I screwed the pooch







.


Recommendations? Any quick fix for this, or service call time?


Any help is well and truly appreciated.


----------



## DSperber

Quote:

Originally Posted by *larrydart* 
Recommendations? Any quick fix for this, or service call time?
Well, I suppose you can re-enter every item's original value from what must surely be your "pre-list"... namely that handwritten list you created early on, of all of your set's values before you first started tweaking in the service menu. Yes, that one, you know...


Sorry, couldn't resist. No honestly, my sympathies.


Each analog set is unique, and further characterized by individualization at the factory as they pre-test and pre-adjust before boxing it up for shipping. Just look at the back of the picture tube and you'll see factory-inserted magnets, which I guarantee look different on your 34XBR960 than on mine. This could be further complicated by the onsite "magnet job" I had done by a Sony tech during two multi-hour sessions occurring shortly after I received my set four years ago (to improve what I felt were defective factory-provided initial conditions).


In other words, trying to apply settings from someone else's set is not guaranteed to match the unique analog characteristics of your set, not to mention your viewing tastes or viewing/tweaking room conditions.


That having been said, since we know that the "service manual defaults" are certainly not how the sets really arrive, and presumably not having all of YOUR set's initial values documented (so that you can return to them now), the best I can offer is my own set's "tweaked" values. This represents everything I've done/changed or simply left as it was.


I don't fully anticipate that my set's values will make your set look like my set, but in light of the current situation I don't know if it can hurt to at least try mine... or at least to start from mine and then continue to adjust from there. Up to you.


Anyway, here it is. No guarantees it will work for you (remember, my geometry/convergence settings reflect the onsite "magnet job" I received) but good luck.


If it doesn't work out, call Sony and ask for a service call from an authorized provider near you (and pray).

 

kd-34xbr960.zip 24.2626953125k . file


----------



## larrydart




> Quote:
> Well, I suppose you can re-enter every item's original value from what must surely be your "pre-list"... namely that handwritten list you created early on, of all of your set's values before you first started tweaking in the service menu. Yes, that one, you know...




But here's the thing: I _did_ write them down. That's how I was able to bring the HDMI input back. That's the only one I was tweaking, because out of the box is was considerably over-scanned. The thing is, none of the other inputs follow. I should think that deflection is the same throughout, that is, one setting for all. I guess I'm wrong about that ! Is there is a starting point that I am not getting?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/14125637
> 
> 
> No idea. I certainly didn't adjust any items in this group when tweaking the geometry on my 34XBR960.
> 
> 
> I'm sure the pre-adjusted (from the factory) values which differ from so-called "service manual defaults" are the result of bench checking that goes on before the sets leave the factory. The service manual defaults are clearly nothing more than pre-loaded starting ROM values but since each picture tube (and associated electronics) is unique they obviously do a true test/adjustment at the factory for each and every set before boxing it up. The service manual defaults, for many items, have little to no relevance it seems based on how far away from service manual defaults they are.



I also stuck to the codes listed in section four (pages 15 - 23) of the service manual. Felt if they didn't appear there, the other codes were not geared toward geomitry settings. FYI, mine for the FULL setting are:


HCENT 43

HPOS 24

HSIZ 45

HTPZ 0

LANG 20

LBOW 41

LCP 45

MPIN 10

PIN 20

PPHA 21

SCRL 29

SLIN 9

UPC 38

VANG 33

VBOW 28

VCEN 16

VLIN 5

VPIN 20

VPOS 27

VSCO 7

VSIZ 25


Please note I did not use the 960's internal monoscope or cross-hatch patterns but one retained on my DVR from the old INHD. With the 960's internal test patterns, the settings were so different from that of the INHD it made the picture appear warped worse than an old 33-1/3 LP left in the sunlight. So IMHO, it's better to use an external source for proper geometric settings.


----------



## Ennui

For comparison, here are my settings:


HCENT 43 33

HPOS 24 16

HSIZ 45 36

HTPZ 0 4

LANG 20 25

LBOW 41 35

LCP 45 42

MPIN 10 10

PIN 20 10

PPHA 21 31

SCRL 29 31

SLIN 9 5

UPC 38 UCP?? 32

VANG 33 25

VBOW 28 29

VCEN 16 24

VLIN 5 6

VPIN 20 21

VPOS 27 27

VSCO 7 7

VSIZ 25 34


FWIW. Done without any test gear or other external inputs.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ennui* /forum/post/14151793
> 
> 
> For comparison, here are my settings:
> 
> 
> HCENT 43 33
> 
> HPOS 24 16
> 
> HSIZ 45 36
> 
> HTPZ 0 4
> 
> LANG 20 25
> 
> LBOW 41 35
> 
> LCP 45 42
> 
> MPIN 10 10
> 
> PIN 20 10
> 
> PPHA 21 31
> 
> SCRL 29 31
> 
> SLIN 9 5
> 
> UPC 38 UCP?? 32
> 
> VANG 33 25
> 
> VBOW 28 29
> 
> VCEN 16 24
> 
> VLIN 5 6
> 
> VPIN 20 21
> 
> VPOS 27 27
> 
> VSCO 7 7
> 
> VSIZ 25 34
> 
> 
> FWIW. Done without any test gear or other external inputs.



Hi Ennui,


Well, at least we match on MPIN







.


I had run off the service codes and changed some for basic sharpness (not those assigned to the center, corners, etc that others talk about under the service manual forum) and by changing the factory pre-sets (some of which were different than the default settings listed on Sony's spreadsheet) also improved picture quality. They are:


2170P-3 #0 SYSM:


Special Sharpness. 0/1=peaky boost, 2=broad boost, 3=flat. The default is supposed to be at 3 (1080i) and 2 (480p) but mine was 2 on both. Resetting both to 3 (flat) greatly reduced the graininess found when increasing the user sharpness and clear edge settings.


2107P-3 #6 SHOF:


Sharpness. Default for 1080i and 480p is 0, with my factory settings at 3 (1080i) and 0 (480p). Kept both at 3.


2107P-3 #10 LTV


Edge Enhancement. 0=off. The defaults were 3 (1080i) and 0 (480p) with both my factory settings at 0. Reset both to 3.


After these changes I went back to the user menu and found I had to slightly reduce the picture and brightness settings for both video 7 and 5 while being able to increase sharpness for both without the picture becoming harsh (edge enhancements remained medium for HD and high for DVD). Again, I had 1080i and 480p test patterns to refer to. Interestingly, the shade of blue on the test patterns (using blue-filter glasses) did not require change and were actually more even than before.


FYI - my color decoder settings had also been changed based on an earlier poster's recommendations. They are:


RYR 14 (factory set at 8)

RYB 15 (factory set at 9)

GRY 6 (factory set at 9)

GYB 4 (factory set at 6)


Hope this information helps.


- Joe


----------



## tvh3ad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tvh3ad* /forum/post/14116054
> 
> 
> I'm selling my XBR960.
> 
> 
> Set was purchased new in Nov 04, ISF'd in 05 after break-in, and has seen light but regular use since then.
> 
> 
> Set is just about perfect in every way -- no scratches or other cosmetic issues, good convergence and geometry, no focus problems, no cold tuner, etc.
> 
> 
> Extended warranty from Sony good through Nov 09.
> 
> 
> Boston area.
> 
> 
> PM me if interested.



It amazes me to even consider this, but I'm starting to wonder if I'm going to have to just throw this set away...no bites on this thread or craigslist. I can't keep it -- no place to put it!


----------



## DJF(NJ)

Well what are you asking for it? Perhaps it's too much?!?


----------



## tvh3ad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DJF(NJ)* /forum/post/14163753
> 
> 
> Well what are you asking for it? Perhaps it's too much?!?



$395 / best offer was how I posted to CL. Had not mentioned price in this forum at all.


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tvh3ad* /forum/post/14163952
> 
> 
> $395 / best offer was how I posted to CL. Had not mentioned price in this forum at all.



For ISF calibrated set, it is pretty good deal imo. I would just wait a bit more. Someone should buy it eventually.


----------



## JayPSU




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tvh3ad* /forum/post/14163952
> 
> 
> $395 / best offer was how I posted to CL. Had not mentioned price in this forum at all.



That seems like a very good deal. I have a deal with another gentleman to buy his XBR960 for $600 later this summer. Granted it includes delivery and is ISF calibrated, but still your asking price is very reasonable.


----------



## Chorgey

I've had my set for some time now and something has just started to happen tonight that I haven't encountered before. The upper left hand corner, where the input is displayed (VIDEO 5 SATELLITE, VIDEO 7 DVD, etc...) the display remains there and does not vanish..... any ideas on how to have this disappear?


Hopefully it's something minor.


Thank you,

Kevin


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chorgey* /forum/post/14169012
> 
> 
> I've had my set for some time now and something has just started to happen tonight that I haven't encountered before. The upper left hand corner, where the input is displayed (VIDEO 5 SATELLITE, VIDEO 7 DVD, etc...) the display remains there and does not vanish..... any ideas on how to have this disappear?
> 
> 
> Hopefully it's something minor.
> 
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Kevin



My video input display also seems to be staying on longer than before but pressing the remote's display button instantly removes it.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tvh3ad* /forum/post/14163952
> 
> 
> $395 / best offer was how I posted to CL. Had not mentioned price in this forum at all.



That's a great price. Folks in your neck of the woods must not know anything about great TVs.


----------



## Harvest

That is a good price. Where I live, in the NW, I watched two 960s go for around 500-600 back in May, not calibrated or with stands, before I pulled the trigger on yet a third one. I found one a little less than those but still more than what you are asking. Still, it took a while for them to sell. Both were on ebay for a week and then both went to craigslist where they finally sold. My biggest concern was how I was going to pick the set up, transport it and reset it up in my place.


----------



## Chorgey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/14169432
> 
> 
> My video input display also seems to be staying on longer than before but pressing the remote's display button instantly removes it.




Thanks for the help. Pressing the remote's "display" button removed the video input display from the 960's upper left hand corner.


----------



## Sonyboy

If anyone in St.Louis, Mo or the surrounding area is looking for a XBR960N w/matching stand for a very nice price send me a pm. The set has also been I.S.F calibrated. This is a pick up only deal. The set was purchased in 2006.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Found this interesting.


Was dubbing some films I had earlier recorded on VHS from Turner Classic Movies onto DVD (VHS connected directly to DVD recorder bypassing the 960). These are rare silent and early sound classics that have not been shown on TCM since and not available on DVD.


Those that were originally recorded when I switched to Cablevision of New York were fine. However, the ones taped before that were from a small local Satellite/Cable company which had video noise problems caused by the provider's scrambler. This was not apparent on the broadcast itself and the copies were still tolerable. Before dubbing these onto DVD I could see the noise appearing much worse than on my old, analog set and the picture itself was waving.


I assumed this meant the tapes weren't watchable at all, however, after reconnecting the VHS player to the 960 the noise was mostly cleared up and the waviness gone. Do you think this was because the limited VHS resolution was being output at 480p via component rather than composite to the 960?


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/14236886
> 
> 
> Found this interesting.
> 
> 
> Was dubbing some films I had earlier recorded on VHS from Turner Classic Movies onto DVD (VHS connected directly to DVD recorder bypassing the 960). These are rare silent and early sound classics that have not been shown on TCM since and not available on DVD.
> 
> 
> Those that were originally recorded when I switched to Cablevision of New York were fine. However, the ones taped before that were from a small local Satellite/Cable company which had video noise problems caused by the provider's scrambler. This was not apparent on the broadcast itself and the copies were still tolerable. Before dubbing these onto DVD I could see the noise appearing much worse than on my old, analog set and the picture itself was waving.
> 
> 
> I assumed this meant the tapes weren't watchable at all, however, after reconnecting the VHS player to the 960 the noise was mostly cleared up and the waviness gone. Do you think this was because the limited VHS resolution was being output at 480p via component rather than composite to the 960?



Joe, you're probably right on with your thoughts of scrambling. What's most likely happening is the VCR is able to "track" the scrambled signal, but when outputting to DVD, the DVD expects to see clean synch pulses from the VCR and it doesn't get them, so it can't play the DVD. The scrambling is acting like a copy protection scheme.


Professionally, the way around this is to insert clean synchronizing pulses with a device called a "frame synch" in line between the VCR and the DVD recorder. Of course, these devices are broadcast-level, and therefore are not yet affordable to hobbyists. So your best bet is probably to wait until the movies are re-broadcast--which could be a long wait, but will eventually happen. Sorry I don't have better news.


Mark


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BTV Mark* /forum/post/14237193
> 
> 
> Joe, you're probably right on with your thoughts of scrambling. What's most likely happening is the VCR is able to "track" the scrambled signal, but when outputting to DVD, the DVD expects to see clean synch pulses from the VCR and it doesn't get them, so it can't play the DVD. The scrambling is acting like a copy protection scheme.
> 
> 
> Professionally, the way around this is to insert clean synchronizing pulses with a device called a "frame synch" in line between the VCR and the DVD recorder. Of course, these devices are broadcast-level, and therefore are not yet affordable to hobbyists. So your best bet is probably to wait until the movies are re-broadcast--which could be a long wait, but will eventually happen. Sorry I don't have better news.
> 
> 
> Mark




Hi Mark,


Thanks for the feedback. I've been doing exactly what you've suggested over the past 2-1/2 years; re-recording those old classic films when being repeated by TCM. Even though I'm unable to dub most of what I collected on VHS, those older recordings actually look very clean and clearer than when I used to watch them on my older 32" analog set.... and I suspect the 960's upscaling and DRC has a lot to do with it.


Like most, I replaced my favorite pre-recorded VHS titles with pre-recorded DVD while saving money by recording others from both digital (only when in letterbox) and HD stations; recordings from digital stations appear exactly as the broadcast and more vibrant than any pre-recorded tape and even those downconverted from high definition look surprisingly sharp and colorful even when compared to the original source. Again, I'm sure this is due to the 960's upscaling process.


----------



## listerone

tvh3ad....I'm in Framingham and,if the set is as described by you,I'll give you $275.I can pick up in Newton.Let me know.Don't know how to use PM here.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BTV Mark* /forum/post/14237193
> 
> 
> Joe, you're probably right on with your thoughts of scrambling. What's most likely happening is the VCR is able to "track" the scrambled signal, but when outputting to DVD, the DVD expects to see clean synch pulses from the VCR and it doesn't get them, so it can't play the DVD. The scrambling is acting like a copy protection scheme.
> 
> 
> Professionally, the way around this is to insert clean synchronizing pulses with a device called a "frame synch" in line between the VCR and the DVD recorder. Of course, these devices are broadcast-level, and therefore are not yet affordable to hobbyists. So your best bet is probably to wait until the movies are re-broadcast--which could be a long wait, but will eventually happen. Sorry I don't have better news.
> 
> 
> Mark



Hi Mark,


Quick question: my brother said he would lend me his Sima which he used to descramble copy protection on pre-recorded VHS and DVDs. Do you think this will clear up those recorded pulses caused by that misfunctioning de-scrambler? Won't see him until August.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/14239968
> 
> 
> Hi Mark,
> 
> 
> Quick question: my brother said he would lend me his Sima which he used to descramble copy protection on pre-recorded VHS and DVDs. Do you think this will clear up those recorded pulses caused by that misfunctioning de-scrambler? Won't see him until August.



Joe, I have no idea. Sorry. But it's worth a try!


Mark


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BTV Mark* /forum/post/14245376
> 
> 
> Joe, I have no idea. Sorry. But it's worth a try!
> 
> 
> Mark



Well, even if they have to remain on VHS, the picture quality is so much better on the 960 than they appeared on my old analog set that I can actually enjoy watching most of them.


I thought this would be the opposite since the older set was masking the difficiencies of VHS resolution. And not only does the 960 clear up the video noise but the wavey picture which was also apparant on the older set is hardly noticable.


----------



## BeachComber

You had an old wavy picture because of the macrovision copy protection that this type of setup used 25-30 years ago. IIRC, the sync was screwed up enough to where a TV could try and lock on to it (although many had the wavy pictures you speak of) while another recorder could not lock on it to copy it.


The 960 just is able to lock onto a weak sync/macrovision protected circuit - as every virtually every TV in the past 20 years has been able to do as well


----------



## tvh3ad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tvh3ad* /forum/post/14163952
> 
> 
> $395 / best offer was how I posted to CL. Had not mentioned price in this forum at all.



FYI: the set eventually sold for $350.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/14250224
> 
> 
> You had an old wavy picture because of the macrovision copy protection that this type of setup used 25-30 years ago. IIRC, the sync was screwed up enough to where a TV could try and lock on to it (although many had the wavy pictures you speak of) while another recorder could not lock on it to copy it.
> 
> 
> The 960 just is able to lock onto a weak sync/macrovision protected circuit - as every virtually every TV in the past 20 years has been able to do as well



Hi Beach,


Thanks for the explanation. The provider was Community Home Entertainment which is no longer in our area. They had a very poor system and even as late as 2002 only used SA cable boxs with a RF jack output through channel 3 (and only a few premium stations heard in surround sound). I didn't switchover to Cablevision earlier because Turner Classic Movies was at first unavailable and then available for an additional $10 a month.


The macrovision was so screwed up that even my 32 inch Toshiba purchased just eight years ago couldn't handle the distortion on my VHS recordings. So I didn't even bother watching those tapes on the 960 till this time and was amazed to find the picture so steady. All I had to do was adjust the wide-zoom vertical size in the service menu to get rid of the white line on the extreme left side of the picture.


----------



## RWetmore

There is currently a brand new one for sale on ebay if anyone is interested.


----------



## 8086

It's been on my watch list for over a week. The unit is new in the box, never used, and has no shipping; it can only be picked up locally in the South El Monte, California. Good luck to those living near by, the current single bid has been sitting at $499 for a few days with less than 3 hours to go.


----------



## RWetmore

Sold for $565 to a very lucky winner.


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/14433765
> 
> 
> Sold for $565 to a very lucky winner.



Considering what I know about these sets having gone through a few as well as some issues out of the box, I would much prefer a used one with the remainder of a 5 year warranty than that "new" unit and a warranty that Sony will never honor as new.


----------



## jenniferny

I have a KD-34XBR960 and when I turn it on there is no picture and the STAND-BY light just flashes 7 times, pauses and repeats. Does anyone know what the 7 flashes mean? Is it like the Trouble Codes on my car?


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jenniferny* /forum/post/14449822
> 
> 
> I have a KD-34XBR960 and when I turn it on there is no picture and the STAND-BY light just flashes 7 times, pauses and repeats. Does anyone know what the 7 flashes mean? Is it like the Trouble Codes on my car?



I have a service manual on PDF, give me your email and I'll tell you when I find (Lost it in 1TB of crap).


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jenniferny* /forum/post/14449822
> 
> 
> I have a KD-34XBR960 and when I turn it on there is no picture and the STAND-BY light just flashes 7 times, pauses and repeats. Does anyone know what the 7 flashes mean? Is it like the Trouble Codes on my car?


 Here is a thread that may help.


----------



## jenniferny




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/14449990
> 
> Here is a thread that may help.



Thank You Very Much!!

Found the thread and the info.

Just turned the TV on and it worked fine using Component Video Input, but the HDMI Input displays a Black Screen, but the TV does display Video 7 and below that Receiver(which I think I labeled Video 7. Any ideas on how to fix that?

Guess I won't be turning the TV off again until I get the parts and find someone to install them.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Most of today's HD sets upconvert 1080i to 1080p. Models I've seen displayed in stores don't really appear as crisp or vibrant than the 960 but, of course, floor models are usually over-peaked and not the best of examples.


Would never get rid of my 960 but am curious if the 1080p feature is a drawback or if there is really little difference in picture quality between that and 1080i.


----------



## R8ders2K

There's another *960* available on eBay...


Local pickup, Venice, CA


----------



## R8ders2K

Joseph,


FWIW, I think that you'll find that a lot of other 960 owners won't give up their 960s because the picture.


However, if you want 1080p, you've got to get a new TV. But, to truely appreciate 1080p, you need a *LARGER* screen size than 34"...


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *R8ders2K* /forum/post/14474492
> 
> 
> JHowever, if you want 1080p, you've got to get a new TV. But, to truly appreciate 1080p, you need a *LARGER* screen size than 34"...



...and a 1080p source device as well, I would venture.


Not owning a Bluray player yet, and thus only having 1080i source from TV, I'll keep my 960 until it dies (or I do). The Olympics pictures are absolutely STUNNING (might I add SHARPNESS=MIN and open up that discussion again??)!


Really have never seen color and 3D-like realism as gorgeous as this on any other set I've ever seen. I don't think anything but a CRT can produce this kind of presentation (and response to rapid motion, e.g. badminton). Night track events at the Bird's Nest, in-studio hosts and guests, beach volleyball venue, equestrian jumping, table tennis, badminton, swimming, track cycling, it just goes on and on. They really have figured out the lighting and makeup and clothing and studio sets required by HD cameras, AND IT LOOKS GORGEOUS!!!


I've said it before and I'll say it again... my 960 is really like a window peering through a space-warp to Beijing. No sense of TV at all. It's like 3D reality.


You'll never pry it away from my hands. For 1080i input, it's absolutely perfect for me.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *R8ders2K* /forum/post/14474492
> 
> 
> Joseph,
> 
> 
> FWIW, I think that you'll find that a lot of other 960 owners won't give up their 960s because the picture.
> 
> 
> However, if you want 1080p, you've got to get a new TV. But, to truely appreciate 1080p, you need a *LARGER* screen size than 34"...




Please don't get me wrong, I will NEVER give up my 960 - it's by far the best out there, especially if its 34 inch size is not an issue (its fine for me since I sit less than six feet away from the screen).


Had a feeling the upconversion to 1080p was required to improve pictures on the more larger, flat screen sets (same is true regarding upconverting DVD players). With the 960's line doubler, DVDs outputting at 480p (with good source material) are stunning so I don't see the need for BluRay for the small difference it might make.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/14474615
> 
> 
> ...and a 1080p source device as well, I would venture.
> 
> 
> Not owning a Bluray player yet, and thus only having 1080i source from TV, I'll keep my 960 until it dies (or I do). The Olympics pictures are absolutely STUNNING (might I add SHARPNESS=MIN and open up that discussion again??)!
> 
> 
> Really have never seen color and 3D-like realism as gorgeous as this on any other set I've ever seen. I don't think anything but a CRT can produce this kind of presentation (and response to rapid motion, e.g. badminton). Night track events at the Bird's Nest, in-studio hosts and guests, beach volleyball venue, equestrian jumping, table tennis, badminton, swimming, track cycling, it just goes on and on. They really have figured out the lighting and makeup and clothing and studio sets required by HD cameras, AND IT LOOKS GORGEOUS!!!
> 
> 
> I've said it before and I'll say it again... my 960 is really like a window peering through a space-warp to Beijing. No sense of TV at all. It's like 3D reality.
> 
> 
> You'll never pry it away from my hands. For 1080i input, it's absolutely perfect for me.



Absolutely right!






































Regarding the sharpness control, I've done some tweaking with the service adjustments. With the user sharpness set to mid-point and edge enhancement at medium, I was able to obtain a more sharper picture with no grain by adjusting the MIDE to 51 (1080i) and 47 (480p), SYSM, SHOF, LTV at 3 for both and UCOF at 1 (1080i) and 2 (480p). Believe it or not, I'm able to raise the sharpness for both to 43 (clear edge medium for 1080i and high for 480p), in the PRO mode.


----------



## R8ders2K

Joseph,


Agreed. If it wasn't for the fact that the 960 weighs almost 200 lbs... Otherwise, yep, it's almost perfect. And very few realize that. Thankfully, it also had 7 video inputs, including HDMI.


Heck, it got mine for as an open box item from Fry's for ~$340.


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/14476272
> 
> 
> Please don't get me wrong, I will NEVER give up my 960 - it's by far the best out there, especially if its 34 inch size is not an issue (its fine for me since I sit less than six feet away from the screen).
> 
> 
> Had a feeling the upconversion to 1080p was required to improve pictures on the more larger, flat screen sets (same is true regarding upconverting DVD players). With the 960's line doubler, DVDs outputting at 480p (with good source material) are stunning so I don't see the need for BluRay for the small difference it might make.



Respectfully disagree my fellow 960 owner.









Real high definition like BD is well past a "small difference" even on "smaller screen" sets like these. You're missing out.







Get a BD player, set it to 1080i like I have on mine and prepare for shock and awe.







You'll _really_ see what this TV is made of and is all about.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/14477386
> 
> 
> Respectfully disagree my fellow 960 owner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Real high definition like BD is well past a "small difference" even on "smaller screen" sets like these. You're missing out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get a BD player, set it to 1080i like I have on mine and prepare for shock and awe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll _really_ see what this TV is made of and is all about.



If we review past posts, we'll find it's a mixed bag regarding Blue-Ray vs. standard DVD with those who own the 960. Some agree and some disagree on this issue.


BTW - do you use a switch box or an a/v receiver for two HDMI connections?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *R8ders2K* /forum/post/14477179
> 
> 
> Heck, it got mine for as an open box item from Fry's for ~$340.



Wow. Got a 20 inch non-HD LCD for my mom that cost more!


----------



## R8ders2K




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/14478003
> 
> 
> BTW - do you use a switch box or an a/v receiver for two HDMI connections?



I do, I use a Monoprice 4x1 HDMI switch (v2.5). Over a year ago, I had to returned their 5-port switch for their new 4-port switch.


I was having a problem with what I determined to be a HDMI issue. After getting the 960's HDMI card/board replaced (Fry's extended warranty), I still wasn't able to use the 5-port switch with the Oppo Digital DV-981HD.


I was able to return the 5-port switch for Monoprice's new 4-port switch and everything (Oppo, DIRECTV HR20-700 and H20-100, and a XBox 360) works just fine!

_Thanks_ to Monoprice for the excellent customer service.


So, if you're planning on getting one, make sure that it has the latest and greatest firmware. I just checked and Monoprice has a new 1.3b certified 4x1 HDMI switch (REV.3.0) for $39.10.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *R8ders2K* /forum/post/14478162
> 
> 
> I do, I use a Monoprice 4x1 HDMI switch (v2.5). Over a year ago, I had to returned their 5-port switch for their new 4-port switch.
> 
> 
> I was having a problem with what I determined to be a HDMI issue. After getting the 960's HDMI card/board replaced (Fry's extended warranty), I still wasn't able to use the 5-port switch with the Oppo Digital DV-981HD.
> 
> 
> I was able to return the 5-port switch for Monoprice's new 4-port switch and everything (Oppo, DIRECTV HR20-700 and H20-100, and a XBox 360) works just fine!
> 
> _Thanks_ to Monoprice for the excellent customer service.
> 
> 
> So, if you're planning on getting one, make sure that it has the latest and greatest firmware. I just checked and Monoprice has a new 1.3b certified 4x1 HDMI switch (REV.3.0) for $39.10.




Yes, I might be. But is the built-in equalizer something the user sets or just an internal mechanism?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/14478003
> 
> 
> If we review past posts, we'll find it's a mixed bag regarding Blue-Ray vs. standard DVD with those who own the 960. Some agree and some disagree on this issue.
> 
> 
> BTW - do you use a switch box or an a/v receiver for two HDMI connections?



Yamaha 2700 AVR. For me it's no mixed bag. BD kicks @$$ on the 960 like any other true high def source would/does.


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/14476272
> 
> 
> Please don't get me wrong, I will NEVER give up my 960 - it's by far the best out there, especially if its 34 inch size is not an issue (its fine for me since I sit less than six feet away from the screen).
> 
> 
> Had a feeling the upconversion to 1080p was required to improve pictures on the more larger, flat screen sets (same is true regarding upconverting DVD players). With the 960's line doubler, DVDs outputting at 480p (with good source material) are stunning so I don't see the need for BluRay for the small difference it might make.



With my PS3 on my XBR960, I like to play games in 720P for the reason that computer generated images and text benefit from the smoother image, but movies and general TV viewing are much better in 1080i; especially Jay Leno and the local news.


----------



## R8ders2K




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/14478756
> 
> 
> Yes, I might be. But is the built-in equalizer something the user sets or just an internal mechanism?



I'm assuming that it's something that's internal, as I never had to do anything with respects to my 4x1 switch.


----------



## R8ders2K




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jenniferny* /forum/post/14449822
> 
> 
> I have a KD-34XBR960 and when I turn it on there is no picture and the STAND-BY light just flashes 7 times, pauses and repeats. Does anyone know what the 7 flashes mean? Is it like the Trouble Codes on my car?



I don't know if this is the same, but you might want to check out this thread over in the Agoraquest forums.


It's possible you might be having a problem with the D-board. Hope this helps.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/14479155
> 
> 
> Yamaha 2700 AVR. For me it's no mixed bag. BD kicks @$$ on the 960 like any other true high def source would/does.



I have the Yamaha RXV-1000 6.1 A/V receiver (needed to connect a separate amplifier for the extra channel). Great sound but was made prior to the commercial use of HDMI so it only has RCA and S-Video inputs and outputs.


Q, how do your standard-definition DVDs look upconverted to 1080i as opposed to 480p? While there has to be a difference between true 1080i and material upconverted to that resolution, is there any noticable improvement? Again, it's been a mixed bag on that subject but I also read on line that upconverting SD is only necessary for larger LCDs and not smaller HD CRTs (BTW - my cable box is set to upconvert standard-definition stations to 480p instead of 1080i in order to use the 960's wide-zoom which I really like).


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/14481747
> 
> 
> 
> Q, how do your standard-definition DVDs look upconverted to 1080i as opposed to 480p?



Very good. Obviously depends on the quality of the player involved. Earth shattering/night and day difference? No.




> Quote:
> While there has to be a difference between true 1080i and material upconverted to that resolution, is there any noticable improvement?



Yes. It's the difference between real high definition vs. something that isn't real high definition. Upconverting DVD can look very nice but you can't "add" something that isn't there to begin with.


BD and other HD sources have higher bitrates, more lines of resolution, information etc. than a DVD does. I'm sure you know all this.


Maybe I have great eyes or something (not really), but I can be across the room maybe 10-12 feet away and I can always easily tell when a real HD program/source is on vs. something that isn't.


I typically watch at about 6-8 feet. Real HD is like looking through a window on this thing. I can't imagine a better picture although I wouldn't mind a bigger screen.












> Quote:
> Again, it's been a mixed bag on that subject but I also read on line that upconverting SD is only necessary for larger LCDs and not smaller HD CRTs



It's not true but frankly there's only way for you to settle this: Stop _reading._ Start _seeing_ for yourself.











> Quote:
> (BTW - my cable box is set to upconvert standard-definition stations to 480p instead of 1080i in order to use the 960's wide-zoom which I really like).



Whatever works for ya!


If this is the only HD you've ever seen then the day you get a chance to fire up a BD on your TV you're in for a real pleasant shock methinks.












> Quote:
> Had a feeling the upconversion to 1080p was required to improve pictures on the more larger, flat screen sets (same is true regarding upconverting DVD players). With the 960's line doubler, DVDs outputting at 480p (with good source material) are stunning so *I don't see the need for BluRay for the small difference it might make.*



These kinds of comments suggest to you me you've never seen some of this stuff for yourself. I can assure that you are mistaken in that bolded statement.










Like DVD, you have good BD's and not so good BDs (re: BD's rushed to the market, not remastered the way they should be, etc.) Those subpar BDs you'd probably see less of a difference over upconverted DVD but good-great BDs will blow you away, guaranteed.


If there's any way you can rent or borrow some kind of BD player and a few BD discs and take things for a test whirl, I hope you can do it. You'd connect via HDMI and set the player to 1080i for IMO at least, the best results.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi Q and thanks for all the input.


I once saw a BluRay demonstration disc on a 42" Sony LCD. The picture was indeed stunning. The demonstration included showing the difference in picture quality between BluRay and standard DVD. But what I saw was a standard definition picture of much less quality than I was used to seeing -- smaller images appeared softer with less detail. I know my DVDs look so much better


My guess is Sony showed standard definition without enhancement (i.e., 480i, upconversion to 1080i or TV upscaling) to emphasize the up to six times resolution factor. While there is an obvious difference between HD broadcasts and DVDs (I've had cateracts removed from both eyes so my vision is now as good as yours LOL) the gap in picture quality is far less than that of the demonstration. Discs with excellent mastering (i.e., Star Wars, etc.) blow me away as well. Of course, that has to be attributed mostly to the 960 being a flagship HD monitor, CRT and only 34".


So it's not really a debate between SD and BluRay - I know Star Wars in Bluray would blow me away even further. But the difference (being played through the 960 and Panasonic DVD recorder) doesn't warrant the high cost of a player and discs at this time.


Ciao,

Joe


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/14491203
> 
> 
> Hi Q and thanks for all the input.
> 
> 
> I once saw a BluRay demonstration disc on a 42" Sony LCD. The picture was indeed stunning. The demonstration included showing the difference in picture quality between BluRay and standard DVD. But what I saw was a standard definition picture of much less quality than I was used to seeing -- smaller images appeared softer with less detail. I know my DVDs look so much better



CRT tubes are underestimated in this regard simply because, as you well know, you have this major push to move on to flat panel.


No doubt: Bigger screen = differences more readily noticeable and apparent, but that doesn't mean you don't get a real nice benefit off of a great set like our Sony 960's.











> Quote:
> My guess is Sony showed standard definition without enhancement (i.e., 480i, upconversion to 1080i or TV upscaling) to emphasize the up to six times resolution factor. While there is an obvious difference between HD broadcasts and DVDs (I've had cateracts removed from both eyes so my vision is now as good as yours LOL) the gap in picture quality is far less than that of the demonstration. Discs with excellent mastering (i.e., Star Wars, etc.) blow me away as well. Of course, that has to be attributed mostly to the 960 being a flagship HD monitor, CRT and only 34".



No question about it. I'll continue to push you on this point, though: HD broadcast can't touch the best BDs or HD-DVDs out there.


You still haven't seen the absolute best your TV can do.











> Quote:
> So it's not really a debate between SD and BluRay - I know Star Wars in Bluray would blow me away even further. But the difference (being played through the 960 and Panasonic DVD recorder) doesn't warrant the high cost of a player and discs at this time.
> 
> 
> Ciao,
> 
> Joe



Up to you, but I think if you actually saw BD running on your set at 1080i it would haunt you forever.


----------



## fbov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/14491641
> 
> 
> ... I'll continue to push you on this point, though: HD broadcast can't touch the best BDs or HD-DVDs out there.
> 
> ...



Please explain how 1080i60 (unconverted HD broadcast) "can't touch" 1080i60 (maximum display rate of the 960, regardless of source). Put in practical terms, your statement sounds like nonsense...

Frank


----------



## wbrett

A few words to ponder....


bandwidth


compression


macroblocking


----------



## PeterTHX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fbov* /forum/post/14492186
> 
> 
> Please explain how 1080i60 (unconverted HD broadcast) "can't touch" 1080i60 (maximum display rate of the 960, regardless of source). Put in practical terms, your statement sounds like nonsense...
> 
> Frank



The same way DVD (480i/60Hz) looks much better than digital SD cable (480i/60Hz)


----------



## BTBuck1

this is the the same group those satellite companies go after with their "Who needs blu-ray...we are 1080p too" ad campaigns.










Very uninformed people being taken for a ride. so sad.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/14491641
> 
> 
> You still haven't seen the absolute best your TV can do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up to you, but I think if you actually saw BD running on your set at 1080i it would haunt you forever.



Callibration and proper user settings also help.


I know the excitement of finding out how much better the 960 can perform after tweaking some of the original factory service settings. While not having paid a professional for a thorough callibration (which might result in the absolute best) I was still able to greatly improve geometry, overscan, color decoding, focus and clear edge (based on other posts, Sony reference points and HD cross hatch patterns). Also stored the old INHD test patterns on DVR for user settings (with aid of blue filter glasses).


----------



## S. Hiller

I guess the question here is whether the 960 is good enough to show the difference with Blu-Ray? Really?


Well, with a larger set, the difference between Blu-Ray and broadcast HD is definitely noticeable. And against DVD, it's night and day. As I imagine it certainly would be on the 960 as well...


And certainly a lot of the source degradation from broadcast HD, that's absent on Blu-Ray, would be apparent on the 960...(More forgiving of course if you sit farther away...)


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/14493629
> 
> 
> Callibration and proper user settings also help.
> 
> 
> I know the excitement of finding out how much better the 960 can perform after tweaking some of the original factory service settings. While not having paid a professional for a thorough callibration (which might result in the absolute best) I was still able to greatly improve geometry, overscan, color decoding, focus and clear edge (based on other posts, Sony reference points and HD cross hatch patterns). Also stored the old INHD test patterns on DVR for user settings (with aid of blue filter glasses).



All true.













> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *S. Hiller* /forum/post/14493763
> 
> 
> I guess the question here is whether the 960 is good enough to show the difference with Blu-Ray? Really?



Yes.











> Quote:
> Well, with a larger set, the difference between Blu-Ray and broadcast HD is definitely noticeable. And against DVD, it's night and day. As I imagine it certainly would be on the 960 as well...
> 
> 
> And certainly a lot of the source degradation from broadcast HD, that's absent on Blu-Ray, would be apparent on the 960...(More forgiving of course if you sit farther away...)



All true.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *S. Hiller* /forum/post/14493763
> 
> 
> I guess the question here is whether the 960 is good enough to show the difference with Blu-Ray? Really?



Yes if you use the component inputs with well shielded cables instead of HDMI. HDMI on this set is not implemented properly...there is an artificial softening effect that can't be gotten rid of. If you want the sharpest picture, you have the use the component inputs, which I do for Blu-ray. Before I discovered this, the difference between blu-ray and regular DVD was minimal. The set in general is about 15-20% sharper using component.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/14496901
> 
> 
> Yes if you use the component inputs with well shielded cables instead of HDMI. HDMI on this set is not implemented properly...there is an artificial softening effect that can't be gotten rid of. If you want the sharpest picture, you have the use the component inputs, which I do for Blu-ray. Before I discovered this, the difference between blu-ray and regular DVD was minimal. The set in general is about 15-20% sharper using component.



Now that's an interesting take. I compared the two with our HD cable box and found the component picture lacked the punch of HDMI (using HD test patterns for the best settings).


----------



## fbov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wbrett* /forum/post/14492202
> 
> 
> A few words to ponder....
> 
> 
> bandwidth
> 
> 
> compression
> 
> 
> macroblocking



Susceptibility to noise is not a consideration in a "can't touch" comparison. Your statement requires the broadcast assumption that there is no macro blocking or bandwidth limitations, and only the minimum required compression, just as you will insist on a well-mastered BD source.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PeterTHX* /forum/post/14492632
> 
> 
> The same way DVD (480i/60Hz) looks much better than digital SD cable (480i/60Hz)



Thank you for supporting my point.


What you're recalling is that digital video is much better than analog TV, the comparison that made DVD a tremendous success. Today, I find it very hard to distinguish one digital source from another when both are 480i60 and under the same initial quality assumptions required above.


I'm still curious how you guys think equal data rates always look better in a 960 coming from one source than another ... more reliable, certainly, but always better? I don't buy it.


Frank


----------



## S. Hiller




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fbov* /forum/post/14517819
> 
> 
> Susceptibility to noise is not a consideration in a "can't touch" comparison. Your statement requires the broadcast assumption that there is no macro blocking or bandwidth limitations, and only the minimum required compression, just as you will insist on a well-mastered BD source.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for supporting my point.
> 
> 
> What you're recalling is that digital video is much better than analog TV, the comparison that made DVD a tremendous success. Today, I find it very hard to distinguish one digital source from another when both are 480i60 and under the same initial quality assumptions required above.
> 
> 
> I'm still curious how you guys think equal data rates always look better in a 960 coming from one source than another ... more reliable, certainly, but always better? I don't buy it.
> 
> 
> Frank



It's unfair to ask us to assume you are watching TV under laboratory conditions. The practical reality of broadcast TV is far different...


Who exactly is offering broadcasts of 480i at DVD bit rates? And Blu-Ray bit rates for video and audio are much higher than broadcast...


It's just a question of whether the 960 is good enough to show the difference and others here clearly believe it is...


----------



## JGD

That's interesting about the component versus HDMI output quality. I have a 960N in a box that I haven't used in a while since I bought a Philips 37PF9631D. I've been meaning to get the 960N out for a comparison but just haven't got around to it yet. My JVC DVD player could switch from 480i to 480p by pressing a button and I definitely preferred the 480p of the player versus the upscaled 1080i of the TV though by using DRC I could get them pretty close. However, the 480p just looked smoother as well as more detailed.


Since I now have both a HD-DVD and a Blu-ray player maybe I'll take a look at the 960N's HDMI picture quality. HDMI implemented in the Philips LCD definitely gave the edge in picture quality to HDMI versus component on my Toshiba HD-A2.


JGD


----------



## BeachComber

This is my experience and observations - yours may vary.


DVI circuits on the 910 (designed 2003) and HDMI on the 960, a set which uses circuits/chips designed in early 2004, are sadly lacking. It seems that the newer HDMI circuits have the technical know how that was lacking in the pre- mid 2006 era. I find most sets and devices designed prior to roughly mid-2006 lacking in design of the HDMI circuit and component looks better (remember most SA cable boxes/dvrs also fall into this pre 2006 category - the newer cable card boxes are updated).


Here's a way to prove it with the 960. Connect a cable STB with an IEEE 1394 output to the 960. Switch between it and HDMI. For me, the HDMI is softer and leaves you with a "thin veil of fog" on the picture. The IEEE 1394 ports/circuits were much more mature than the other digital types when this set was designed. It strips away this "light fog" on the picture and gives you more clarity.


I have no doubt that accessory items mentioned from the last 2 years for the most part have better HDMI circuits in them and thus deliver a better quality picture than we saw with the Q1 2004 design. However, the Sony still has an inferior HDMI circuit.


Thus again, I thought it was pretty well known that component looked better than HDMI (though cable card looks the best and followed closely by IEEE 1394).


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/14524154
> 
> 
> Thus again, I thought it was pretty well known that component looked better than HDMI (though cable card looks the best and followed closely by IEEE 1394).



Interesting.


You're actually the first I've heard this from. Have you had each input calibrated?


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Originally Posted by RWetmore:


"If you want the sharpest picture, you have the use the component inputs, which I do for Blu-ray. Before I discovered this, the difference between blu-ray and regular DVD was minimal. The set in general is about 15-20% sharper using component."


The drawback is that component cannot output a 480i DVD upconverted to 1080i. Was there no difference between 480p (via component) and upconverted 1080i (via HDMI)?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/14524154
> 
> 
> I find most sets and devices designed prior to roughly mid-2006 lacking in design of the HDMI circuit and component looks better (remember most SA cable boxes/dvrs also fall into this pre 2006 category - the newer cable card boxes are updated).
> 
> 
> I have no doubt that accessory items mentioned from the last 2 years for the most part have better HDMI circuits in them and thus deliver a better quality picture than we saw with the Q1 2004 design. However, the Sony still has an inferior HDMI circuit.




Yes, I noticed an immediate improvement in picture quality between the older (off the shelf) SA 4200 HD box compared to a brand new (in-box) SA 8300 when upgrading to DVR in January, 2006. But I also noticed the component picture paled in comparision to HDMI (no matter how much adjustment was made using HD test patterns).


Even though my 960 was manufactured in May, 2005 could any improvements have been made to the HDMI circuitry compared to earlier models?


----------



## fbov




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *S. Hiller* /forum/post/14518173
> 
> 
> It's unfair to ask us to assume you are watching TV under laboratory conditions. The practical reality of broadcast TV is far different...
> 
> 
> Who exactly is offering broadcasts of 480i at DVD bit rates? And Blu-Ray bit rates for video and audio are much higher than broadcast...
> 
> 
> It's just a question of whether the 960 is good enough to show the difference and others here clearly believe it is...



The parameters of the comparison are not mine; I understand the practical issues, but they were excluded by the OP. The salient point is that 1080i60 is 1080i60 is 1080i60. Starting with a 1080p24 signal won't get you any better image than the best 1080i60 on these CRTs, regardless of initial bit rate.


Belief is irrelevant, beyond the choice of whom you believe, especially in factual situations. I question opinions that are counter to the facts to see what the poster is really saying.


Frank


----------



## S. Hiller




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fbov* /forum/post/14527387
> 
> 
> The parameters of the comparison are not mine; I understand the practical issues, but they were excluded by the OP. The salient point is that 1080i60 is 1080i60 is 1080i60. Starting with a 1080p24 signal won't get you any better image than the best 1080i60 on these CRTs, regardless of initial bit rate.
> 
> 
> Belief is irrelevant, beyond the choice of whom you believe, especially in factual situations. I question opinions that are counter to the facts to see what the poster is really saying.
> 
> 
> Frank




1080/24? (Not the kind of bit rate difference I was referring to...I'm talking about, for example, ATSC vs Blu-Ray rates. A key factor actually being compression...)


I hope we get away, generally, from the idea that DVD is good enough. DVD looks quite flat and boring in comparison to Blu-Ray. And I will certainly try to avoid renting or purchashing DVDs in the future, if there is any prospect of being able to get the same on Blu-Ray. (Have you seen the new 2001 on Blu-Ray or Casino Royale -- it's amazing looking.)


With its standout blacks and contrast ratio, the 960 remains an excellent display. And it just seems a shame to waste it on DVDs...


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/14524978
> 
> 
> Yes, I noticed an immediate improvement in picture quality between the older (off the shelf) SA 4200 HD box compared to a brand new (in-box) SA 8300 when upgrading to DVR in January, 2006. But I also noticed the component picture paled in comparision to HDMI (no matter how much adjustment was made using HD test patterns).
> 
> 
> Even though my 960 was manufactured in May, 2005 could any improvements have been made to the HDMI circuitry compared to earlier models?



1) The SA8300HD does not have a great HDMI circuit - it is 2004/2005 era design, but it was better than the 4200. The only HDMI circuit change to the SA8300HD came when they went to the HDC, which again, is a 2006+ design. As you found out, it starts with quality at the source, but the HDMI connection of the 960 has been known to be lacking.


2) No, all 960s have the same circuits except for the picture tube and Sony even states as such on their ESI support pages. They are considered the same set (with interchangable picture tubes) in Sony's eyes.


----------



## SurfingMatt27

I don't own the XBR960 model, but i do own the HS420 model and on my set there is a clear difference in sharpness using HDMI over component, it's not drastic but it's a bit sharper overall. keep in mind that by default some of the service menu settings used for HDMI have softening filters on under the MID5 section in the service menu, disabling these blur filters will greatly affect how sharp the HDMI input will get.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/14528894
> 
> 
> 1) The SA8300HD does not have a great HDMI circuit - it is 2004/2005 era design, but it was better than the 4200. The only HDMI circuit change to the SA8300HD came when they went to the HDC, which again, is a 2006+ design. As you found out, it starts with quality at the source, but the HDMI connection of the 960 has been known to be lacking.
> 
> 
> 2) No, all 960s have the same circuits except for the picture tube and Sony even states as such on their ESI support pages. They are considered the same set (with interchangable picture tubes) in Sony's eyes.



Hi Beach,


Know of any improvements to the SA 8300HD since 2006?


----------



## wired88e

Hi,


I recently did the anti-reflective coating remouval procedure. I had to take the TV apart.

The layer of plastic came off well, but when I re-assembled my tv, all the colors and luminosity is screwed up, the screen is now un-viewable. It cant be fixed by the main image settings, but i noticed the problem diminish when i lower the brightness to zero.


Anything obvious to you? Did a connector not go back in right? What else could have happened (could have been damaged)?. Do I need recalibration or am I screwed?


Let me know if you have any advice (other than not opening a 220lbs TV)









Thanks!


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wired88e* /forum/post/14533177
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I recently did the anti-reflective coating remouval procedure. I had to take the TV apart.
> 
> The layer of plastic came off well, but when I re-assembled my tv, all the colors and luminosity is screwed up, the screen is now un-viewable. It cant be fixed by the main image settings, but i noticed the problem diminish when i lower the brightness to zero.
> 
> 
> Anything obvious to you? Did a connector not go back in right? What else could have happened (could have been damaged)?. Do I need recalibration or am I screwed?
> 
> 
> Let me know if you have any advice (other than not opening a 220lbs TV)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!



When you say, "take the TV apart", how apart was it? Did you mess with anything at the gun end of the crt? There are physical adjustments there that will create MAJOR problems if knocked out of alignment. I would suggest you go back in and make sure everything is reconnected that you disconnected. Have you checked your input cables?


----------



## wired88e

Hi,


Thanks for the response, i took it apart enough to remove the tube completely.

I guess its possible that some physically adjustments got moved at the gun end. I will check everything again. Any way to get a schematic of what should be where? What kind of MAJOR problems are we talking about, something that a pro can re-calibrate, or could it results in parts needing to be replaced? The picture looked great before. I don't if it has to do with the input cable as even the input display label is all out of focus and saturated in the top left corner. There are a few things that can be manually turned, i tried them all (putting them back to the original position afterwards), and nothing seems to be changing the picture at all. Would a picture help of the image help? Basically everything is saturated and bleached all out of focus.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wired88e* /forum/post/14533685
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response, i took it apart enough to remove the tube completely......










That takes big brass ones.

The service manual has about 20 pages of specific wire dressing details. If you removed or bumped the deflection yoke and/or focus neck assembly, you may need a professional to realign them.


----------



## wired88e

i thought that was the only way to remove this defective plastic layer. Sony would do nothing about it.

ANyways, I followed your advice, re-checked the cabling with the service manual, and a blue wire was off, so i re-soldered it, and it works!

Thanks for the pointers!!!!Really appreciated!


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/14532660
> 
> 
> Hi Beach,
> 
> 
> Know of any improvements to the SA 8300HD since 2006?



Re-Read #6056.


Unfortunately, the SA8300HDC has serious other issues.


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/14528894
> 
> 
> 2) No, all 960s have the same circuits except for the picture tube and Sony even states as such on their ESI support pages. They are considered the same set (with interchangable picture tubes) in Sony's eyes.



Last Update

8/15/2006 Event ID

E30048388 Model

KD34XBR960N, KD34XS955N, KV34HS420N

Subject

What is this model




SYMPTOMS


Where is the service info on this ?


RESOLUTION


Same as none N model.

The N stands for non AR film CRT.

There were two different types of CRT's that were used.

The coating on the glass was different.

During early production they used a AR film coating, then they switched to an non AR coating type of CRT.


The CRT available in WRPC will be the non coated type once they run out of the coated type. Unless they are replacing the CRT there is no difference, and even if the CRT is replaced the customer should not see a difference.

For all practical reasons all KV34HS420, KD34XBR960, KD34XS955 are N Models.


MORE INFORMATION


Unit/Model Details


Links




Unit/Model Detail


Unit(s): SN Start SN End Factory Family Name Product Category

KD34XBR960N SEE SM SML DA4 TVP

KD34XS955N 4000318 4000318 SML DA4 TVP

KV34HS420N 4000953 4000953 SML DA4 TVP


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/14538880
> 
> 
> Re-Read #6056.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, the SA8300HDC has serious other issues.



Thanks Beach, sorry for the inconvenience.


- Joe


----------



## Fred1024

I've had my 960 since November 2006 and have been thrilled with its performance. However, several months ago I noticed a tiny shadow (maybe 2 high, 1 wide) on the lower left side of the screen (maybe 5 from the bottom). Against a pure white background the shadow looks gray, but on a pure colored background the shadow takes on a colored tinge. This phenomenon has gotten worse over time with the shadow getting slightly larger, another one appearing a few inches higher and a third one starting on the right side of the screen. Does anyone know what is causing this and how I might be able to correct it or at least stop its progress? I could really use some help now as my 2 year factory warranty expires in late November. Thanks in advance for your replies.


Fred


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fred1024* /forum/post/14567747
> 
> 
> I've had my 960 since November 2006 and have been thrilled with its performance. However, several months ago I noticed a tiny shadow (maybe 2” high, 1” wide) on the lower left side of the screen (maybe 5” from the bottom). Against a pure white background the shadow looks gray, but on a pure colored background the shadow takes on a colored tinge. This phenomenon has gotten worse over time with the shadow getting slightly larger, another one appearing a few inches higher and a third one starting on the right side of the screen. Does anyone know what is causing this and how I might be able to correct it or at least stop its progress? I could really use some help now as my 2 year factory warranty expires in late November. Thanks in advance for your replies.
> 
> 
> Fred



Well, if it was just the left, it could have been that the landing needs adjusting, but as you note the color tinging that is getting worse it most likely is an Apeture Grill Failure in the tube.


These are most common on the triniton tubes in the lower left hand side of the tube and the upper right, but can happen anywhere.


Its not uncommon. If you did not have a warranty, it would be about a $1500 job - in fact, they might try to give you a credit on a new TV.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Suddenly noticed a quarter-inch horizontal overlap of the picture on the right side of the screen when watching non-HD material in the zoom and wide zoom modes via the HDMI. Unplugged the 960 for about five minutes but the distortion was still there. Hoped it was due to the cable company but adjusting the service mode horizontal position further right accomplished nothing. Was able to eliminate it by increasing the horizontal size by one digit (made it two just to play it safe).


Decreasing the horizontal size further toward zero (shrinking the picture) increased the overlap proportionatly.


Is this an indication that a problem could be brewing or could a slight overlap naturally develop over time necesistating an adjustment in horizontal size? Also, is there a service code that could simply eliminate overlap in the NON-HD zoom modes? Again, no overlapping appeared in full-screen HD HDMI (or component video from the DVD player in video 5).


FYI - when adjusting geometry in the past I don't believe I ever noticed an overlap of the picture - just too much shrinkage left and right.


UPDATE:


This evening I again reduced the horizontal size to see if the overlap on the right was still there. It was, but I could not tell if it was still an overlap or just a thin white line down the edge of the right side.


Unlike yesterday, the overlap (or white border?) did not increase as the horizontal size was further reduced (the line stayed proportionate alongside the edge of the picture). I was also able to decrease the horizontal size more than yesterday before it began to appear.


Is it possible this is being caused by the cable provider (scrambling system, etc.?) and picked up by the 960 because the overscan was set so close to 0%?


In any case, this weekend I plan to redo my wide-zoom service settings since a slightly altered horizontal size could slightly affect overall geometry.


Again, thanks in advance for any help that could be provided.


- Joe


2nd UPDATE:


Tonight again decreased the horizontal size of the SD picture and the distoration, which began as an overlap and changed to a bright line the next day, no longer appears.


Although slight expansion of the horizontal size covered up the distortion (while retaining proper overscan settings) I was still concerned that if there was an acutal problem with my set, it would eventually get worse, no matter how much I adjusted the horizontal. Now my guess is it was not a manufacturing defect (because the 960 is not like HAL and capable of diagnosing and repairing the problem itself) but rather work done by the cable provider which would not be noticed on monitors where the overscan percentage wasn't close to zero.


Do you think my hunch is right or mere wishful thinking?


----------



## Joseph Dubin

FINAL UPDATE:


It's not the 960.


Local provider must have been doing something with its scrambling system. That thin white line seen on the right (non-HD stations only) is only noticable when compressing the horizontal size of the picture on the cable feed - it's not there doing the same for OTA. Had the line and overlapping not been so pronounced last Tuesday (the provider made some sort of adjustment the next day) I would not have known it ever existed and not have worried something was wrong with the set.


----------



## wired88e

Hi,


I am a happy owner of a sony KD-XS955 (now that the anti-glare layer is off).

I wanted to get an opinion from the members and owners of this TV about inputs and PQ.


Basically my questions are:


1) What looks better on this TV (or at least what should technically be better from your experience or the specs), using HDMI (with a 3 port HUB) or the components? I use a PS3, HD cable box, and computer to this TV.


2) I'll be having a ISF technician come over to calibrate my set tomorrow. He has not done this particular TV, but many Sony direct TVs. Is there anything I should specifically ask him to check and calibrate that may get overlooked?


3) As this is my first time getting my set calibrated, what are the things that I need to make sure is done?


My first question is also relevant to how I calibrate which inputs to what devices.


Thanks in advance!


----------



## DJF(NJ)

In my experiences:

1.) Component looks better than HDMI(FWIW, mine is a 6/04 build date). I use it for Xbox360, HD-DVD and PS3. What I mean by better is it is sharper and not as dark. My calibrator(ChadB) recommended using component as well.


2.) Ask your calibrator if he can align the edges of the screen with magnets. Mine was a bit off and took almost 3 hours to get it straight.


3.) Have the TV on for about a 30mins before your calibrator comes. Clear away any loose wires, make sure the room is the lighting conditions that you would normally want when watching TV.


Question to you...How about commenting on your TV when it had the anti-glare coating vs. without it? Thanks!


----------



## E-A-G-L-E-S

Is it worth trying a used 34xbr960 for $450 with no insurnace it wont dump on day two......-or-......a 40xbr700 that although also used was offered with a 30day return if it dumps on me or has any real issues for full refund for $350?

Or a new Vizio VP322 with factory warranty for $512?

--this is for bedroom set


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DJF(NJ)* /forum/post/14647391
> 
> 
> In my experiences:
> 
> 1.) Component looks better than HDMI(FWIW, mine is a 6/04 build date). I use it for Xbox360, HD-DVD and PS3. What I mean by better is it is sharper and not as dark. My calibrator(ChadB) recommended using component as well.
> 
> 
> 2.) Ask your calibrator if he can align the edges of the screen with magnets. Mine was a bit off and took almost 3 hours to get it straight.
> 
> 
> 3.) Have the TV on for about a 30mins before your calibrator comes. Clear away any loose wires, make sure the room is the lighting conditions that you would normally want when watching TV.
> 
> 
> Question to you...How about commenting on your TV when it had the anti-glare coating vs. without it? Thanks!




I only know of 1 ISF calibrator who will open up a 34XBR960 and attempt to play with the magnets.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *E-A-G-L-E-S* /forum/post/14648477
> 
> 
> Is it worth trying a used 34xbr960 for $450 with no insurnace it wont dump on day two......-or-......a 40xbr700 that although also used was offered with a 30day return if it dumps on me or has any real issues for full refund for $350?
> 
> Or a new Vizio VP322 with factory warranty for $512?
> 
> --this is for bedroom set



How much space do you have? If the 960 will fit without you bumping into it or have to climb over stuff to move around then it is worth it.


----------



## DJF(NJ)




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/14648516
> 
> 
> I only know of 1 ISF calibrator who will open up a 34XBR960 and attempt to play with the magnets.



The other option to that would be to either take the set to an authorized TV repair center or have them come to you. I inquired about having my 24" Sony CRT getting aligned at a Sony authorized TV repair center and they said they can do it. They don't do ISF calibrations, nor did they seem to know much about it, so I would have an ISF certified person come to do it. Chad is only in my area about once or twice a year and unfortunatley, my scheduling couldnt be met with his the last 2 times. Yes, it would require more money and time to do, but if someone is serious about getting their 960 to it's full potential, I feel it's worth it.


----------



## E-A-G-L-E-S




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JohnGZ28* /forum/post/14648655
> 
> 
> How much space do you have? If the 960 will fit without you bumping into it or have to climb over stuff to move around then it is worth it.



Space is not concern, just throwing $500 away on the 960 if it craps out on me within a year or less.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *E-A-G-L-E-S* /forum/post/14649161
> 
> 
> Space is not concern, just throwing $500 away on the 960 if it craps out on me within a year or less.



I understand. I don't have $500 to throw away so I know where you're coming from. Since I own a 960 I'm biased to say go for it.


As a side note D Mc and crew will be 12-4 while pimp slapping TO on their way to the division championship.


----------



## E-A-G-L-E-S

What does the 34xbr960 have over the 40xbr700?(PQ, connections, etc.)

Can't find much info at all on the 40xbr700.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *E-A-G-L-E-S* /forum/post/14652033
> 
> 
> What does the 34xbr960 have over the 40xbr700?(PQ, connections, etc.)
> 
> Can't find much info at all on the 40xbr700.



I think the 700 is a 4:3 compared to the 960 16:9. I don't think the 700 has an HDMI input but I could be wrong.


----------



## E-A-G-L-E-S

Scratch it all and sorry for all the OT.

Just committed to a 36XBR800almost half the money and this is a bedroom set. Also this is in my city and not a 45 minute drive to another city.(philly)

Thanks for your help John.


----------



## S. Hiller




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *E-A-G-L-E-S* /forum/post/14652416
> 
> 
> Scratch it all and sorry for all the OT.
> 
> Just committed to a 36XBR800almost half the money and this is a bedroom set. Also this is in my city and not a 45 minute drive to another city.(philly)
> 
> Thanks for your help John.



I assume you are planning on watching, primarily, non-widescreen content...


----------



## E-A-G-L-E-S

No, primarily the other way around, but in 16:9 mode the 34xbr960 is less than 1" wider and only .5" higher, only 5.9% more screen.

The gas saved and the 2 and change instead of 4 and a half are my main reasons....but I did check 16:9 real estate on the two.









I am also getting the stand the xbr800 came with from sony for free, where as the one in Philly had no stand.


I know the PQ will be inferior, no doubt, but for the money and effort invloved that's o.k. and it will still look good after I calibrate it.


If the 960 was local I possibly would buy that instead, especially if he would go lower than the almost 5 bills it would have cost me with gas and tolls.

This is jus tan extra tv that will see not much use but still wanted a good picture.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *E-A-G-L-E-S* /forum/post/14652416
> 
> 
> Scratch it all and sorry for all the OT.
> 
> Just committed to a 36XBR800almost half the money and this is a bedroom set. Also this is in my city and not a 45 minute drive to another city.(philly)
> 
> Thanks for your help John.



Anytime.


----------



## theroys88

How does one remove the anti-glare coating on these sets. I have a 36xs955 and do find the picture dark.


----------



## RalphArch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *theroys88* /forum/post/14653692
> 
> 
> How does one remove the anti-glare coating on these sets. I have a 36xs955 and do find the picture dark.



I think that was an extra feature of the 960. I don't think we have one like it on the 36xs955


----------



## tennberg

Saw some others doing this, so figured it was kosher:


I'm selling my XBR960 along with a Bell'O audio/video stand (glass/metal). Both purchased around August '04.


Set still has an extended warranty on it (through Tweeter) to late October 2009.


Set has not been professionally calibrated (only what my eye thought looked best), though I'm not one for high brightness or saturated colors. Set has no marks or dents on it, it's been lovingly cared for.


Available for pickup in Boston area.


PM me if interested.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tennberg* /forum/post/14661116
> 
> 
> Saw some others doing this, so figured it was kosher:
> 
> 
> I'm selling my XBR960 along with a Bell'O audio/video stand (glass/metal). Both purchased around August '04.
> 
> 
> Set still has an extended warranty on it (through Tweeter) to late October 2009.
> 
> 
> Set has not been professionally calibrated (only what my eye thought looked best), though I'm not one for high brightness or saturated colors. Set has no marks or dents on it, it's been lovingly cared for.
> 
> 
> Available for pickup in Boston area.
> 
> 
> PM me if interested.



That's somebody else's set, right?. Would feel sad if you were selling your 960 since you were the first to congratulate me upon my purchase of the 960 back in August of 2005.


----------



## Will in MKE

Hi everyone,


I have a 960 that is having a strange issue. All of the on-screen menus, including volume, the show that's on, input, etc. do not display any text. The translucent grey background comes up where the display should be, but that's it. I can't even tell what channel I'm on.


I suppose it could be worse, as the set is otherwise functional, but it's still rather annoying. Especially since it happened briefly once before, when it was under warranty. It never recurred, so I never called to have it checked.


Any ideas for a solution?


Thanks in advance for any suggestions you may have.

Will


----------



## WJonathan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Will in MKE* /forum/post/14685039
> 
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> 
> I have a 960 that is having a strange issue. All of the on-screen menus, including volume, the show that's on, input, etc. do not display any text. The translucent grey background comes up where the display should be, but that's it. I can't even tell what channel I'm on.
> 
> 
> I suppose it could be worse, as the set is otherwise functional, but it's still rather annoying. Especially since it happened briefly once before, when it was under warranty. It never recurred, so I never called to have it checked.
> 
> 
> Any ideas for a solution?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for any suggestions you may have.
> 
> Will



Try leaving it unplugged overnight?


----------



## foible

I'm way behind the curve. I just bought a KD-34XBR960 as my first foray into HDTV. This set can be had pretty cheaply now, if you can lift it. Anyway, I have some questions about setting it up.


Does it make sense to buy a DVD player at this point, or go for Blu-Ray? If Blu-Ray, should it be stand alone or PS3?


Since there is only one HDMI input, how do you make the most of it? Do you need a receiver to do the switching so multiple devices can be connected by HDMI? Right now I have the cable STB (Comcast) connected to the TV by HDMI. Is satellite better for HDTV?


Thanks in advance for any help.


----------



## Kruzifixxion




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *foible* /forum/post/14713380
> 
> 
> I'm way behind the curve. I just bought a KD-34XBR960 as my first foray into HDTV. This set can be had pretty cheaply now, if you can lift it. Anyway, I have some questions about setting it up.
> 
> 
> Does it make sense to buy a DVD player at this point, or go for Blu-Ray? If Blu-Ray, should it be stand alone or PS3?
> 
> 
> Since there is only one HDMI input, how do you make the most of it? Do you need a receiver to do the switching so multiple devices can be connected by HDMI? Right now I have the cable STB (Comcast) connected to the TV by HDMI. Is satellite better for HDTV?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help.



First where you bought it at? Lol the reason im asking is that i been lookin for one.I would suggest getting a Ps3,plays your old dvd's.video games blu rays.You can find a switcher to switch between ps3,cable, and for sound you can use the optical from tv to receiver.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Just out of curiosity, what setting does this group prefer for it's 4x3 material? Wide-zoom allows the center to appear closer to it's original geometry but at the same time picture quality becomes a little less sharper due to increased stretching that increases the picture size and cuts off the sides.


----------



## PeterTHX

I always left it in native 4x3.


I used wide zoom for a while but once I realized burn-in wouldn't be an issue I left it at "normal" for 4x3 material.


----------



## Kruzifixxion

Hey is the KV-34XBR910 a good buy for 500? How does it compare to the 960? Thanks


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/14736570
> 
> 
> Just out of curiosity, what setting does this group prefer for it's 4x3 material? Wide-zoom allows the center to appear closer to it's original geometry but at the same time picture quality becomes a little less sharper due to increased stretching that increases the picture size and cuts off the sides.



I use Wide-zoom for 4:3 SD except for the occasional letterboxed program where I switch to zoom. I use Full for HD and anamorphic SD.


----------



## Shadowknight




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kruzifixxion* /forum/post/14738337
> 
> 
> Hey is the KV-34XBR910 a good buy for 500? How does it compare to the 960? Thanks



I don't know if it was a problem with the particular set I bought, but I found that the 910 I bought last year produced a much dimmer picture that than 960 in my bedroom, even after getting it ISF calbrated. I bought mine for $500 used, but I got the show to throw in a Samsung OTA turner for free so I could watch HD OTA. I'd try to push for something closer to $400 if they're willing to negotiate. $500 is okay if they thrown in the custom stand or OTA tuner). It's missing a few features that they put in the 960, the menu isn't as precise (and my calibrator *hated* having to use the 910's menu when calibrating as it uses a bunch of dashes for picture levels instead of showing a number) and it doesn't have the OTA and QAM tuners. It's still worth getting it you can't get a 960, but don't pay more than it's truly worth. I paid $475 to two different sellers for the two 960s I have now, one for just the tv, the other had the custom stand thrown in for free (I gave the 910 to my mom last weekend when I got my new 960).



> Quote:
> Just out of curiosity, what setting does this group prefer for it's 4x3 material? Wide-zoom allows the center to appear closer to it's original geometry but at the same time picture quality becomes a little less sharper due to increased stretching that increases the picture size and cuts off the sides.



I stick with true 4:3 for movies and shows that are shot in that format, but I use wide-zoom for some games. Really, in games like Paper Mario: Thousand Year Door you really can't notice the picture distortion much at all.


----------



## BeachComber

fwiw, Anyone looking for a 960 in the North East might check this out as its owned by an ISF Calibrator:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post14751744


----------



## Jason F




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kruzifixxion* /forum/post/14738337
> 
> 
> Hey is the KV-34XBR910 a good buy for 500? How does it compare to the 960? Thanks



I can't speak for how well the 910 stacks up to the 960 (but on paper the 960 is better due to the cablecard, integrated HD tuner, etc)....


But my reason for posting was to say I just bought my (new to me) XBR960 for $300. No stand with it but I didn't need it anyway (I never used the stand with my KV-32HV600 that I upgraded from).


I did get a steal on this thing (I found it on Craigslist). I'd been seeing the 960 go for $400-450 here in Atlanta, but this guy had a girlfriend harping at him to get it out of their apartment so he priced it low to move it quickly.


Man I love this set. It looks great (he had it ISF calibrated). I was so happy with my HV600, but I'm just in love with this XBR960. (especially since 90% of what we watch is HD, it's nice to have that big HD picture)


----------



## Soph

Same thing happened to me. I just picked up a 960 yesterday from a guy on craigslist, same story, girlfriend wanted it out of the apartment. Only $400, including the matching stand. I've been watching these things since they started selling them in 2004!


----------



## Paradigm_Shift23

If anyone is selling or knows someone selling a 960 in Orlando, Fl, please PM me.


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Paradigm_Shift23* /forum/post/14843998
> 
> 
> If anyone is selling or knows someone selling a 960 in Orlando, Fl, please PM me.



Craigslist has them in Atlanta, Austin, Charlotte, Chico, Dallas, Houston, Los Angeles, New Jersey, New York, Orange County, Philadelphia, Roanoke, Rochester, Salem, San Antonio, San Diego, San Francisco, Tri-Cities, Washington DC


and did I mention Orlando?

http://orlando.craigslist.org/ele/829530215.html 

http://orlando.craigslist.org/ele/812218102.html


----------



## gmarceau

I bought a 960 off ebay. A little more than $475. The tv works fine, as I saw that it worked when I got there to pick it up, but I've got a couple issues that need resolved:


HDMI is not working. I'm not sure if this is a cable issue or what. Do I need HDMI for blu-ray or an upconverting dvd player?


The "video" sign in the upper left corner doesn't go away.


The menu button doesn't seem to always work-I may need a new remote from sony. I was able to calibrate a little in Pro mode.


Ideas, suggestions?


----------



## Chorgey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gmarceau* /forum/post/14993601
> 
> 
> 
> The "video" sign in the upper left corner doesn't go away.
> 
> 
> Ideas, suggestions?



Try pressing the "Display" button on the remote control, that should take care of the "video" sign.


----------



## WJonathan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gmarceau* /forum/post/14993601
> 
> 
> HDMI is not working. I'm not sure if this is a cable issue or what. Do I need HDMI for blu-ray or an upconverting dvd player?



There were some HDMI board failures on the 960s, it may need repair. Try contacting the owner and see if he has any advice. You don't need HDMI to view really great HD signals, component will carry 1080i and below perfectly well. Your problem will be too few HD inputs on the TV, so you may want to invest in a decent quality component splitter. I bought a Philips HD auto-switcher from Walmart a few years ago that's worked great.


----------



## gmarceau

Okay, that's what I thought about HDMI. I'll just use component and buy a new remote from Sony-hopefully that should take care of the video sign.


This kind of sucks since my Oppo only has HDMI. Perhaps it's time to upgrade to a 983 or sit it out for their blu ray.


----------



## gmarceau

Are there any calibration settings in this 204 pager? I've been playing with picture and brightness settings in pro mode, but that's been about it.


Otherwise, I'll sift through the entire thread.


Guys, thanks for all your help!


----------



## ejthomp

Six months ago I bought my first 960 off craigslist. Paid $350 including the matching stand and DVD player. Saturday I picked up my second 960 for $200! Both units purchased from first owners....not a scratch on them....work perfectly.


Everyone that comes in the house and sees the picture quality of my TVs, remarks something along the lines of, "Geez, I think that picture quality is better than my flatscreen."


I feed both TVs with an antenna from my attic.... Pure HD signal...sometimes I'm still amazed by the picture!


Boys, it's a buyers market!


----------



## R8ders2K

I'll echo *WJonathan*'s comment about HDMI board failures.


I bought mine from Fry's a couple of years ago. It was an "open box" item and I bought their extended warranty. The HDMI worked initially, but the HDMI board had to be replaced and it's been working fine ever since.


Was the HDMI problem listed in the auction? Double check with the seller and see if he was aware of it. It's possible he might not have used the HDMI and was unaware of it.


Alternatively, since you purchased it on eBay, did you get an offer from SquareTrade.com for a warranty? It might be worth it in the long run.


----------



## gmarceau

He didn't have a blu-ray player and I don't think he knew much about TVs. Someone at CC sold him on this thing and he likes cnet. He knew little about calibration, different models, etc.


Really nice guy, very honest, wanted to help me out, so I don't think its a stretch to say he never used hdmi, especially if it's a tv with one hdmi output.


He was NOT a videophile.


I'm less concerned about that than I am with the "video" sign to go away and getting a remote that fully works- I suspect those problems go together, since the display button and the menu button don't work on the remote










I didn't get the ebay warranty, etc. I just got the one he had from Sony- which expired, so it's sort of meaningless. It was so cheap, that I'm not sure what I'll do down the road. I may hold out still for a kuro or panny in two years.


I went down to bestbuy to look for a stand for this sucker, but I've got an alternative that should work better.


btw, I picked up an XD-E500 player from Toshiba and passed on the new panny blu ray (bd35), since the Toshiba has a region hack- I've got WAY too many hong kong dvds. I wished that Panny had a region hack, too.


----------



## gmarceau

Looks like I can't upconvert any dvd without hdmi.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gmarceau* /forum/post/14995374
> 
> 
> Are there any calibration settings in this 204 pager? I've been playing with picture and brightness settings in pro mode, but that's been about it.



You think this one is extensive?


You need to go to this "Sony tweaks" thread for a complete discussion and how-to in "service mode". It's long, but what you want is there.


Many categories of "calibration"... geometry, color, brightness/contrast, etc.


Don't forget that every XBR960 CRT is an analog device, with slight differences from every other XBR960. So each and every numeric setting from one user will not necessarily be the "correct" value for your set. While many values will definitely be universal for all users, lots of settings are affected by things such as "convergence magnets" on the back of the picture tube and which are thus unique to each and every set.


So... just be careful when entering the world of the service menu. And be sure to write down all of your current settings before you start playing.


----------



## gmarceau

Okay, so I talked with guy I purchased the tv from and he used HDMI as his source for cable...it was not an easy move getting this tv back to my house and I was scared I may have broken it a couple times. I blame myself.


I'm just wondering if the way it was moved, turning it on it's side and then using a dolly to move it may have messed some things up internally.


Is there a way to reset the tv???


----------



## okwhatev




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gmarceau* /forum/post/14999869
> 
> 
> Okay, so I talked with guy I purchased the tv from and he used HDMI as his source for cable...it was not an easy move getting this tv back to my house and I was scared I may have broken it a couple times. I blame myself.
> 
> 
> I'm just wondering if the way it was moved, turning it on it's side and then using a dolly to move it may have messed some things up internally.



These TVs are very fragile and very heavy. It's always an unfortunate possibility to damage the set whenever it's moved. There's a reason it came new packed in an ungodly amount of styrofoam. The guns can easily be 'bumped' out of alignment, and I've also heard tales of strange on-screen displays/input errors similar to the ones you're describing appearing around the time of a move.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gmarceau* /forum/post/14999869
> 
> 
> Is there a way to reset the tv???



Somewhere there should be a master 'reset to factory defaults' option. Although I don't remember offhand where it is. Please note that with this TV and it's outstanding analog source upconverting, you'll actually get a much nicer upconverted image by setting your DVD source output to 480P and letting the television's Cinemotion and Super Fine Dot Pitch engine do the work through the component inputs. In my experience on this set, it's a dramatically better picture then the Oppo (or any other up-converting player) outputting 1080i and hooked up through HDMI. This TV's own ability is the secret to all it's crazy admirers. Don't underestimate the power of the last Trinitron !


----------



## gmarceau

All is well.


Had my oppo at 1080p, hence the black screen, so the HDMI is working fine.


Remote seems to work completely now, as well.


I noticed this with the tv, as well. It didn't really matter what the dvd player was, since this tv does a better upconversion than any player I've thrown at it.


The edge enhancement feature is interesting and seems to even sharpen scenes more than I thought possible (Although it may induce some slight ghosting?).


Still, blu ray over HDMI is so much better than component. The clarity with blu ray on this set is amazing. My bd35 is the first blu ray player that looks like a normal dvd player, but it's still slow (and this was supposed to be the fastest player out there besides ps3).


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gmarceau* /forum/post/14999869
> 
> 
> Is there a way to reset the tv???





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *okwhatev* /forum/post/15001680
> 
> 
> .....Somewhere there should be a master 'reset to factory defaults' option. Although I don't remember offhand where it is. ....



A few words of advice.


Under NO circumsatances should you attempt a RESET of ANY kind unless you desire a LONG , DIFFICULT road of restoring your set from the ashes.


Y'all have been warned, AGAIN.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gmarceau* /forum/post/15002402
> 
> 
> All is well.
> 
> 
> Had my oppo at 1080p, hence the black screen, so the HDMI is working fine....


----------



## gmarceau

I've got a dead line of resolution across my screen. It's not really noticeable unless I'm a foot away from the tv, but I'm wondering what to do about it.


Blu ray looks ridiculous on this set, amazing sound, really amazing picture.


Also, I've noticed some slight ghosting during black scenes. I saw some in Casino Royale today. Does the edge enhancement feature cause that or is it just phosphor CRT based?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gmarceau* /forum/post/15038548
> 
> 
> I've got a dead line of resolution across my screen. It's not really noticeable unless I'm a foot away from the tv, but I'm wondering what to do about it.



You're sure you're not just seeing the two tiny horizontal wires that hold the aperture grill against the back of the glass? Usually they're located about 25% down from the top and 25% up from bottom.


EVERY Sony Trinitron picture tube, be it in a computer CRT monitor or a TV, has two such very tiny wires that are visible if you get very close to the tube and look for it. That's simply how the tubes are made and all Trinitron owners have seen them at one time or another and just gotten used to them.


Move back to normal viewing distance, and don't look for them. After a while you just will not see them.


Is this what you're referring to?


----------



## gmarceau

Okay, that's what I'm seeing










Man, you guys know your stuff!


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gmarceau* /forum/post/15039787
> 
> 
> Okay, that's what I'm seeing



Excellent.


Actually, they're really only most easily visible against a stable solid white background, such as you might see in a composition window for a computer's email or word processing program and where you're pretty close to the CRT screen.


Any other dark background, or one where the content is in motion (e.g. normal TV watching), makes it absolutely impossible to see these wires.


That's the price of "Trinitron perfection" I guess. XBR960 owners, be content.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gmarceau* /forum/post/14995374
> 
> 
> Are there any calibration settings in this 204 pager? I've been playing with picture and brightness settings in pro mode, but that's been about it.
> 
> 
> Otherwise, I'll sift through the entire thread.
> 
> 
> Guys, thanks for all your help!



Congratulations on your new 960. Can tell how much you love it just like the rest of us do.


Regarding the service menu, be sure to write down original factory settings to set them back to the way they originally were to avoid making any mistakes. I would also suggest printing out the master list of all service codes in the suggested thread by group - it provides the actual SONY default setting for each item plus space to write down your adjusted setting.


I'm not a technician so I skipped those callibrations requiring more technical expertise, just comparing factory settings to the suggested default to see which was better (fortunately, most were set the same). I got bold in group seven by tweaking the system, special sharpness, sharpness, edge enhancement and mide using a cross-hatch pattern recorded onto DVR from the old INHD test patterns for setting up HD (no longer broadcast).


The cross-hatch pattern was vital to set proper geometry (groups nine and ten). The instructions on pages 15 through 23 did not include all items so I referred to the others in both groups to fine-tweak it even more. Only other geometric items I did myself was for top, bottom, left and right blanking (group 11) to rectify overscan.


I also saw there was a general group consensus regarding the red/green corrections (group 8) and adjusted them accordingly with excellent results.


I then went into the user settings still using those INHD test patterns with blu-filter glasses. I got an even more beautiful picture on the PRO mode for both HD and 480p DVD than ever before. I then adjusted the user settings in the MOVIE mode and after a comparising the two found the whites and sharpness (with no grain) were enhanced slightly better in MOVIE so that's the mode I'm now use for all my viewing.


If you are using a blu-ray player then get a blu-ray DVD with a THX Optomizer for reference. There are too many internal test patterns and the 960's own crosshatch for geometry really didn't really work well, actually creating distortion instead of alleviating it. I also was able to get two pairs of blu-filter glasses for about $5 (including shipping) directly from the THX website.




Hope this helps,


Joe


----------



## DSperber

Quote:

Originally Posted by *gmarceau* 
Are there any calibration settings in this 204 pager? I've been playing with picture and brightness settings in pro mode, but that's been about it.
Just in case you didn't find this in the "tweaks" thread, attached is my latest XLS which shows all of my service menu settings, for all inputs, and for all input resolutions.


As has been repeated, and can't be repeated enough, you should "write down" (or record in an XLS like this one, which you can clone and then use as your starting point for your particular XBR960) all of your existing settings for all service menu items before you start any kind of tweaking. That way at least you should be able to recover, should disaster strike or perhaps if you just want to go back to what you had before you started.


Also... someone else's settings are not necessarily right for your set, because of many factors (e.g. magnets on the picture tube). But at least you can look at some set of values, such as in my XLS, and at least try it out for yourself and then decide if it's better or worse. Having an XLS like this, with your current settings, makes it very convenient for future reference and discussions.


Finally, you absolutely must have a cross-hatch test pattern in order to adjust geometry and overscan (not to mention convergence). Various sources for these patterans exist, but I'm attaching a BMP which if you can connect your computer to your 960 you should find useful for this purpose.


Again... my geometry settings are unique to my 960, because of the "magnet job" I've had done to my set. So my service menu settings relating to geometry are obviously only really applicable to my set. But at least you can look at them for reference.


But what EVERYBODY touches is in group 2170P-4, items 7-10, to adjust color (and eliminate "red push"). These are ABSOLUTELY CRUCIAL and will improve your colors dramatically. Note that a calibration DVD (with colored filter glasses) is very helpful for this job.


Also, color adjustments in the service menu complement what you've done in the user menu for color, hue, color temp, and color axis... so this is not a trivial adjustment in just one place. Lots of fingers in the pie.


Good luck.

 

kd-34xbr960.zip 24.2626953125k . file

 

overscan.zip 9.4423828125k . file


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi DSperber,


Saw your above post and agree with you 100%.


Not only did proper geometry settings eliminate bowing and linear distortion but correcting the overscan enabled the picture to be sharper. Out of the box the picture just barely reached the ten percent horizontal safety lines (5% for vertical). With overscan now set to approximately 2% we are no longer missing information along the edges and the picture itself is no longer "over-stretched" which had caused the 960's resolution to appear less crisp than it should have been.


Also want to point out to Gmarceau that items 7-10 under 2107P-4 are the user settings found in the main menu and that even a slight adjustment in one (other than hue) requires re-adjusting the others.


----------



## gmarceau

Christ, this is turning into a monster!


You guys are speaking to me in Chinese right now. I never thought it would happened, but I've become the guy who buys the home theater stuff and has no idea what he's got. At least I don't have the thing on vivid with the contrast on max










Okay, guys, I'm a complete noob here. I bought this tv, because I knew it was basically the Rolls Royce of hdtvs. Since the industry is pushing flat panels, despite the tech not quite being up to CRT (yes, even the mighty Kuro), I purchased this sucker at a great deal. So, with this in mind...


Service menu: How do I access it, what will it help me do with set geometry, calibration, etc?


Grain: I get lots of grain in my blu ray, but I can't figure out if this is noise or just film grain. I should note that I've got clear edge on high and I really like the look of it, but I'm figuring softening the picture will reduce the grain. My panny bd35 player is also set to "fine", so the picture is amazingly crisp.


My calibration: Pro mode, warm setting to get closest grey scale, with contrast at about 55-60%(38-40) with color @ 27 and brightness anywhere between 24-26, with sharpness @ 32-34. How much better can I get than this?


DRC: I never played with it, I actually kept it on Custom 1. It greys out on blu ray. Cinemotion gets greyed out too, as it's the last setting I kept on when I had my dvd player hooked up.


Pro calibration: Bite the bullet and do this right? I'll try to find someone who's an expert with calibrating a tv and not a BB employee. There's got to be guys out there with lots of experience working on 960s.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi Gmarcaeu,


Don't worry, you are no different than most of us when it comes to home theater.


To access the service menu, turn the TV off, then press, in this order, the buttons on your remote for display, 5, volume up and power. The service menu will then appear on top.


To access the item you wish to adjust:


1) Press the 2 button to scan up and the 5 button to scan down until you reach the desired group that the item is located in (the group code appears in the upper left corner).

2) When in the desired group, press the 1 button to scan up and the 4 button to scan down until you get to the item in question (the item number appears to the right of the group number).

3) To adjust the item press the 3 button to raise the adjustment and the 6 button to lower it (the adjustment number appears to the right of the item number).


NOTE: Even though an adjustment may be changed, it must be saved before the power is turned off (otherwise it reverts to the setting you first saw). You will see the word "service" in the upper right hand corner. To save your adjustment 1) press the muting button (the word "service" will then change to "write") and b) then press the "enter" button (the word "write" will then turn red. Wait a few seconds till the word "service" re-appears. The change will then be saved.


Continue this procedure for each item you adjust. When you wish to exit the service menu simply turn the TV off.

Before attempting any service adjustments it's best to get a blu-ray callibration disc which will have all the test patterns necessary to make them. Use the pages I suggested to set the geometry and overscan. Then adjust the sharpness and edge-enhancement items I mentioned before. DON'T FORGET TO WRITE DOWN EVERY ORIGINAL SETTING B-E-F-O-R-E MAKING YOUR OWN ADJUSTMENT SO YOU CAN RETURN TO IT IF YOU FEEL YOU MADE IT WORSE OR IF YOU MADE AN ADJUSTMENT ON THE WRONG ITEM (I've done that often!). By adhering to these cautionary steps you can scan the range of each adjustment to see what seems best for you; even after saving the adjustment if you later feel you made a mistake you can then go back into the service menu and return the item to it's original setting - SO WRITE DOWN THE ORIGINAL SETTING NUMBER BEFORE DOING ANYTHING ELSE.


If you want to adjust the color decoders within the service menu, these are the settings most seem to agree on: RYR-14; RYB-15; GYR-6; GYB-4 (I do not know how to tweak them using test patterns).


Then go into your user menu but before you begin any tweaking I suggest setting the color temperature at "cool" to keep the whites more natural and go into the advanced settings to see that the red color push is set to "default" (after tweaking if you find the picture too red then set it to "monitor" and tweak the color and hue again. Then follow the disc instructions for tweaking the picture, brightness, color, hue and sharpness in each mode (VIVID, STANDARD, PRO and MOVIE) to see which one you like best (most of us stay away from vivid and standard). You're sure to be happy.


Note that the DRC options are disabled when using 480p, 720p or 1080i sources. They only work on 480i (VHS or non-upconverted standard definition signals from your cable box).


As far as graininess, it's common with older films that haven't been remastered for DVD all that well. I was watching one DVD which was pristine and then put on another only to find it much harsher. Newer DVDs tend to be mastered much better than those made many years ago. I found by adjusting the sharpness, super-sharpness, clear-edge and midi changes in the service menu I was able to increase the settings for sharpness and edge enhancement to bring in more detail without the picture becoming harsh and grainy.


Am sure this seems overwhelming at the moment but with a little time, experimentation and patience you'll get the hang of it. Limit the service adjustments to geometry, sharpness and those suggested color decoders and you'll be fine.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gmarceau* /forum/post/15045635
> 
> 
> Service menu: How do I access it, what will it help me do with set geometry, calibration, etc?



Check the notes at the bottom of my XLS (service menu tab):


Enter Service Mode = [PowerOff] - [DISPLAY] - [5] - [VOL+] - [PowerOn]

Menu item Next = [1]

Menu item Previous = [4]

Group Next = [2]

Group Previous = [5]

Adjust item value Up = [3]

Adjust item value Down = [6]

Save New Settings = [MUTE] - [ENTER]

Exit Service Mode = [PowerOff]

Warning: [7]-[JUMP]-[ENTER] and [7]-[9]-[ENTER] will reset the NVM data. Avoid key [7].




> Quote:
> My calibration: Pro mode, warm setting to get closest grey scale,



To each his own, but I feel "warm" is too red for my tastes.


I prefer to start from "cool" (a bit bluish), and then adjust other things to match so that the resulting color (especially skin tone) is most natural.


The basic axiom is that you need to be in PRO mode to have total control and eliminate factory built-in presets and biases. Otherwise, you'll be adjusting things to compensate for biases inherent in those other modes... so you might as well just start in PRO (essentially "flat") and go from there.




> Quote:
> with contrast at about 55-60%(38-40)



Of course this depends on your viewing conditions, but if you are in PRO mode I think "picture" (i.e. contrast) of 38-40 is too high. Remember this setting depends on what your input source is and its particular characteristics. HD sources (720p and 1080i) via component video or HDMI should not need this much contrast (but that's just me).


On the other hand, SD inputs (480i) on INPUT1/INPUT3 from VCR or similar may require this value. In fact, my own values for SD are also 39-40.


I have my 720p/1080i HD source on INPUT6, with user menu settings to match. I have my 480p DVD(SD) source on INPUT5, to keep it specifically separate from HD and to allow its own separate user menu settings.


Personally, for my HD input I have picture at 34-35.




> Quote:
> with color @ 27



Seems low, probably due to your use of "warm". 31 is the default, and I find it works well for HD input and "cool". But again, remember that the 2170P-4 color adjustments in the service menu are crucial and will interract with these user menu adjustments. You've got to have "lots of fingers moving at once".




> Quote:
> and brightness anywhere between 24-26



Again, seems low... if you're in PRO mode. 31 is the default and 31-32 should be right for HD inputs.




> Quote:
> with sharpness @ 32-34.



Try MIN!!!!!!!! For HD input, you want NO edge enhancement. (I know... I'll hear from some people, but I won't listen.) It may take a day or two to get used to, but this is how HD should be viewed (IMHO, and per my calibration DVD).


Now for 480i SD input, I've got sharpness set at 19. But this is very much dependent on your source... OTA roof antenna, cable system S-video, satellite receiver S-video, VCR, etc..




> Quote:
> DRC: I never played with it, I actually kept it on Custom 1. It greys out on blu ray. Cinemotion gets greyed out too



Only relevant for SD inputs, not HD.


Personally, I find "progressive" with my D* S-video source to be excellent.




> Quote:
> Pro calibration: Bite the bullet and do this right?



Certainly your decision. Naturally if you have artifacts like convergence problems (e.g. rainbowing of lines in the corners), curvature and bowing that cannot be straightened out with the service menu tweaks, etc., you may need a qualified service technician who can apply magnets to the back of your picture tube (which definitely is the only way to fix certain problems). And then your service menu adjustments will have to be redone, to be compatible with the effect of the magnet job.


I don't think ISF people do magnet jobs, but I may be wrong.


Anyway, you can absolutely do much yourself... and you'll be surprised how quickly you will pick up the technique once you actually try something out. The key to learning is to try an adjustment you know will be of benefit and tweak it "one unit" up or down, and carefully watch what happens on the screen. You'll absolutely see the result of that one increment, and you can then decide if it's better or worse, with either more adjustment needed in the same direction or more in the opposite direction.



To help you out adjusting geometry/overscan (assuming you have a cross-hatch test pattern available), you might read this post (from the 2005-2006 archives , so click on that link when asked if you want to). This is sort of my "recipe".


There were several others posted over the past few years that provided more commentary and that you might also find helpful. Start with this one, again from the 2005-2006 archives.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi Dsperber,


Service tweaking definately makes a profound affect on all user settings. I even believe service adjustments on one set could be quite different than that of another while resulting in the same exact picture quality. A perfect example is the difference in the way we adjust sharpness.


You keep your user sharpness near minimum whereas mine is around 45 with clear-edge set to high. The reason has to be our service settings for MIDI (which gives over 60 different combinations of contrast, brightness and sharpness), super-sharpness, clear-edge, etc. My adjustments affected the range in user sharpness, making it more subtle than it was out of the box. Hence, I now have a smaller but finer range of sharpness to work with (and those factory service pre-sets did cause the picture to appear harsh and grainy at those higher settings).


Of course, had my user adjustments been different I might have found it necessary to have the sharpness and clear-edge set much lower like you do.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15049817
> 
> 
> I even believe service adjustments on one set could be quite different than that of another while resulting in the same exact picture quality. A perfect example is the difference in the way we adjust sharpness.
> 
> 
> You keep your user sharpness near minimum whereas mine is around 45 with clear-edge set to high. The reason has to be our service settings for MIDI (which gives over 60 different combinations of contrast, brightness and sharpness), super-sharpness, clear-edge, etc.



Starting with my first use of DVE years ago, I followed Joe Kane's suggestion to TURN DOWN SHARPNESS TO WHATEVER MINIMUM YOU CAN.


The explanation was that "sharpness", "edge enhancement", etc., is artificial processing added to the signal from the provider. You are not seeing any additional information from the original content... you're just seeing electronically added artifacts, which is simply something added artificially.


Even if other tweaks are used to compensate for and reduce newly created artifacts such as "dot crawl" etc., it's all just one artificial technique to compensate for the results of another artificial technique. Why do any of this (per Joe Kane)? At least that's how I view things.


Granted, I have not touched MIDI at all (other than MID3 for geometry) for sharpness, focus, etc., from whatever the factory settings are. So I cannot comment firsthand on what things might look like if I did fool with these settings. Personally, I don't think I need any adjustment to sharpness or focus.


But I do know I have turned off sharpness for my HD inputs, and turned off edge enhancement. In this way I am seeing whatever is provided by the content provider... insofar as "edges" are concerned. And the picture is stunning. Pure, clear, sharp, and stunning.


To each his own I suppose. I guess a side-by-side comparison would be a convincing experiment, but that's hard to arrange.


----------



## Chorgey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gmarceau* /forum/post/15045635
> 
> 
> Christ, this is turning into a monster!
> 
> 
> Pro calibration: Bite the bullet and do this right? I'll try to find someone who's an expert with calibrating a tv and not a BB employee. There's got to be guys out there with lots of experience working on 960s.



I went with a Pro calibration and am very happy with that. You can locate one at http://www.imagingscience.com/ this is for ISF calibrations.


----------



## gmarceau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/15046653
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To each his own, but I feel "warm" is too red for my tastes.
> 
> 
> I prefer to start from "cool" (a bit bluish), and then adjust other things to match so that the resulting color (especially skin tone) is most natural.
> 
> 
> The basic axiom is that you need to be in PRO mode to have total control and eliminate factory built-in presets and biases. Otherwise, you'll be adjusting things to compensate for biases inherent in those other modes... so you might as well just start in PRO (essentially "flat") and go from there.
> 
> 
> 
> Of course this depends on your viewing conditions, but if you are in PRO mode I think "picture" (i.e. contrast) of 38-40 is too high. Remember this setting depends on what your input source is and its particular characteristics. HD sources (720p and 1080i) via component video or HDMI should not need this much contrast (but that's just me).
> 
> 
> On the other hand, SD inputs (480i) on INPUT1/INPUT3 from VCR or similar may require this value. In fact, my own values for SD are also 39-40.
> 
> 
> I have my 720p/1080i HD source on INPUT6, with user menu settings to match. I have my 480p DVD(SD) source on INPUT5, to keep it specifically separate from HD and to allow its own separate user menu settings.
> 
> 
> Personally, for my HD input I have picture at 34-35.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seems low, probably due to your use of "warm". 31 is the default, and I find it works well for HD input and "cool". But again, remember that the 2170P-4 color adjustments in the service menu are crucial and will interract with these user menu adjustments. You've got to have "lots of fingers moving at once".
> 
> 
> 
> Again, seems low... if you're in PRO mode. 31 is the default and 31-32 should be right for HD inputs.
> 
> 
> 
> Try MIN!!!!!!!! For HD input, you want NO edge enhancement. (I know... I'll hear from some people, but I won't listen.) It may take a day or two to get used to, but this is how HD should be viewed (IMHO, and per my calibration DVD).
> 
> [/url]



I've adjusted picture down around 34-35 and that feels about right. I was okay with 31 on brightness until I had the lights off and the screen would go black- it's too bright. 26-27 is better for that. I'm sorry, but I need to know that black is black. I'll sacrifice some black detail.


The color setting is good for warm, but I'll try a neutral setting. If I take the red out, then the color goes up to 31-32.


If I can play around with the service menu's color then I think I'll be close to where I want to be.


I'll also try to get rid of clear edge and sharpness, although I like a sharp picture- it's getting weird seeing the pores in everyones face, though...


----------



## Joseph Dubin

"I guess a side-by-side comparision would be a convincing experiment, but that's hard to arrange".


Hi DSperber,


- at well over 200 pounds, that would indeed be tough.


I agree with Mr. Kane that sharpness should be set at a neutral setting to avoid over-processing or too soft a picture. I suggest checking to see if item 0 under 2170P3 (SYSM) is set to 3. This is described as "special sharpness" with four optional settings: 0/1=peaky boost; 2=broad boost; 3=flat. While the default is 3 (flat) my factory setting was 2 (broad). Switching to 3 combined with MIDE (item 16 of this same group) might explain our differences in user sharpness and edge enhancment.


BTW - SONY lists the HD user sharpness default at 29 which is almost midpoint in the user menu. My actual setting is 41 (not 45 which was a typo), an increase of slightly under 20%. As we both know, picture and brightness levels affect sharpness so in movie mode mine are 44 (picture) and 27 (brightness).


Color is 40 with hue at R-1. These user settings along with the adjusted codes listed by SONY for the four 2170P4 color settings (in lieu of the defaults) make the shades of blue equal when viewed through blue-filter glasses.


Again, it would be very interesting to do a side-by-side comparision, however, after two hernia operations I'm not willing to take the risk! But since we both relied on HD test patterns I'm sure any differences in picture quality would be minute.


----------



## gmarceau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/15051424
> 
> 
> Starting with my first use of DVE years ago, I followed Joe Kane's suggestion to TURN DOWN SHARPNESS TO WHATEVER MINIMUM YOU CAN.
> 
> 
> The explanation was that "sharpness", "edge enhancement", etc., is artificial processing added to the signal from the provider. You are not seeing any additional information from the original content... you're just seeing electronically added artifacts, which is simply something added artificially.
> 
> 
> Even if other tweaks are used to compensate for and reduce newly created artifacts such as "dot crawl" etc., it's all just one artificial technique to compensate for the results of another artificial technique. Why do any of this (per Joe Kane)? At least that's how I view things.
> 
> 
> Granted, I have not touched MIDI at all (other than MID3 for geometry) for sharpness, focus, etc., from whatever the factory settings are. So I cannot comment firsthand on what things might look like if I did fool with these settings. Personally, I don't think I need any adjustment to sharpness or focus.
> 
> 
> But I do know I have turned off sharpness for my HD inputs, and turned off edge enhancement. In this way I am seeing whatever is provided by the content provider... insofar as "edges" are concerned. And the picture is stunning. Pure, clear, sharp, and stunning.
> 
> 
> To each his own I suppose. I guess a side-by-side comparison would be a convincing experiment, but that's hard to arrange.



ClearEdge doesn't make things look bad, though. However, I need to get rid of all sharpness and compare, but things don't look fake on the screen or enhanced, they just look clear as opposed to blurry. This is mostly the case with background. I do have to try both again.



Also, I still can't get into the service menu. Poweroff, display, vol+ and power on? Do I have to be on a certain channel- I'm on video 7 for the HDMI.


----------



## Ennui

You left out the "5". Each step of the sequence needs to be completed within one second of each other. (Except the power off, of course.)


----------



## Ennui

Attached is a page from the service manual. You should try to get a copy of the service manual if you are using the service menus. I paid for one some years ago but they are available free I believe.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

When I tried to obtain a service manual directly from SONY they wanted to charge me $60. I believe there are other websites that made copies and sell them for less. Many of the pages you would want can be found on the AVS link for the SONY SERVICE CODES.


----------



## gmarceau

I played with some service codes. The MIDE and SYSM settings were what allowed me to get some good clarity. I set MIDE to 22 and SYSM is at 0. Edge enhancement now looks artificial.


I played with the settings from the link, but all the adjustments for screen placement didn't really matter to me. Whatever the settings were that played with contrast and greys made the set darker. Actually, my old settings are way too dark for the changes. I think I'll go back to factory settings on the darks.


My panny bd35 seems to have a red push to it when playing blu ray. I've set the color to neutral and the advanced setting is set to monitor.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gmarceau* /forum/post/15067074
> 
> 
> I played with some service codes. The MIDE and SYSM settings were what allowed me to get some good clarity. I set MIDE to 22 and SYSM is at 0. Edge enhancement now looks artificial.
> 
> 
> I played with the settings from the link, but all the adjustments for screen placement didn't really matter to me. Whatever the settings were that played with contrast and greys made the set darker. Actually, my old settings are way too dark for the changes. I think I'll go back to factory settings on the darks.
> 
> 
> My panny bd35 seems to have a red push to it when playing blu ray. I've set the color to neutral and the advanced setting is set to monitor.



That's what we all did at the beginning - fooled around with different adjustments to get a feel of them and over the next few days go back in and try another series of changes.


IMOP edge enhancement tends to look artificial if SYSM is set to anything other than flat. With MIDE one needs to go through the entire range of settings in order to determine which one suits you best since is setting is a combination of others found under other service codes.


Do you have a Blu-Ray disc that contains the THX optomizer (usually included in the special feature menu of discs that are THX certified)? If so, I strongly suggest using it for precision setting of user brightness, picture, sharpness, color and tint. Blue filter glasses work with the color pattern by just showing the words "color" and "tint" with recise color and tint achieved by adjusting each level until all letters appear in a uniform shade of blue. Again, if you (or anyone else) needs a pair they cost only a few dollars and can be purchased through www.thx.com .


Hopes this is of help. Any questions, just ask.


Joe


----------



## gmarceau

I'm sort of happy with my settings now- maybe.


I went into neutral color and set the advanced setting to monitor and then set the color back up to 31. That's done. I think there's greater accuracy to that than using a warm setting to get some accurate grey scale in Pro mode.


Brightness setting is based off of a black screen in a dark room. That's been going to 28-29.


Picture/contrast has been right around 33-35 and that seems excellent.


I've got the color space settings per the service code recommendations in this thread.


Geometry is pretty solid. Solid enough. I may move the horizontal setting a little to the right.




MIDE is something else that I don't get. I'm not sure what it does with sharpness. There was a sharper setting at 23 than 22, but it seemed too artificial. I also remember 19 was sharp, as well. It went in a group of sharp, sharper, flat, for a few times between 14-15 to somewhere in the high 20s.


----------



## Fizzboom

I have started exploring the service code menus on my KD-34XBR960, I decided to see what was in the overscan area of my set and I adjusted the horizontal and vertical sizing, stretch, and shutter parameters so I could see the entire crosshatch pattern (1920x1080). I have included here jpg's of my adjusted geometry before looking at the overscan area (image1) and then (image2) where I can see the entire perimeter, almost.


I was surprised to see such distortion in the overscan area, although it explains some to the extreme geometry adjustments I am having to make. First, note the clipping in the upper left corner. It is not due to the curving of the left vertical but due to a hard to see here bending of the canvas inward away from the left corner that blanks off the image. What is causing this and how do I correct it? Second, note the inward bowing of the right vertical. With some adjustments the far right vertical will actually fold over the second right vertical. I think that this is caused by the beam hitting the edge of the tube and overlaying on the rest of the image.


If I move the image to the left to avoid the distortion on the right, I loose more and more of the image in the upper left corner


I want to correct these faults before adjusting convergence. My adjusted geometry doesn't look to bad but I am having to use shutter adjustments to cut off too much of the image. I want to see the perimeter line of the entire crosshatch without distortion.


I originally removed all of the permalloy magnets installed by a Sony technician to remove color blotching because they caused some pretty severe distortion which he said he could not correct. I have played with reattachment of the magnets but cannot correct the convergence issues. If I can improve the distortion in the overscan area, it would help a lot in making it possible to correct the convergence.


It's also kind of interesting that the upper left corner and center right distortions of the crosshatch pattern are the locations of the color blotching that I adjusted out with landing parameters!


I am new to the forum, so please bear with me if my terminology is not correct. Please tell me what is right. There is a plastic frame for the CRT. There is the visable CRT screen area. There is a scan area that the guns cover in the screen area. Then there is an image area in which the image overlays within the scan area. What I called the "canvas" was the scan area which in my case is not showing the entire image and it is not a rectangle. It is not easily shown, but the left side of the scan has a curved edge that bends away from the left side as it gets closer to the upper left, where I loose the image. The geometry adjustments change the grid lines in the crosshatch but do not effect the curve in the perimeter of the scan.


Comments are encouraged.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gmarceau* /forum/post/15068623
> 
> 
> MIDE is something else that I don't get. I'm not sure what it does with sharpness. There was a sharper setting at 23 than 22, but it seemed too artificial. I also remember 19 was sharp, as well. It went in a group of sharp, sharper, flat, for a few times between 14-15 to somewhere in the high 20s.



It might seem there is little sequential logic in the range for MIDI since some low range numbers appear only slightly different than those much higher while the differences in sequential adjustments are quite obvious. My guess is that subtle changes in contrast begin every third number with different settings for brightness and the same contrast setting (or vice-versa) sandwiched in-between. Again, MIDI is a combination of brightness and contrast which automaticly affects sharpness (even if sharpness is not adjusted by MIDI as an individual component).


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fizzboom* /forum/post/15068958
> 
> 
> I have started exploring the service code menus on my KD-34XBR960, I decided to see what was in the overscan area of my set and I adjusted the horizontal and vertical sizing, stretch, and shutter parameters so I could see the entire crosshatch pattern (1920x1080). I have included here jpg's of my adjusted geometry before looking at the overscan area (image1) and then (image2) where I can see the entire perimeter, almost.
> 
> 
> I was surprised to see such distortion in the overscan area, although it explains some to the extreme geometry adjustments I am having to make. First, note the clipping in the upper left corner. It is not due to the curving of the left vertical but due to a hard to see here bending of the canvas inward away from the left corner that blanks off the image. What is causing this and how do I correct it? Second, note the inward bowing of the right vertical. With some adjustments the far right vertical will actually fold over the second right vertical. I think that this is caused by the beam hitting the edge of the tube and overlaying on the rest of the image.
> 
> 
> If I move the image to the left to avoid the distortion on the right, I loose more and more of the image in the upper left corner
> 
> 
> I want to correct these faults before adjusting convergence. My adjusted geometry doesn't look to bad but I am having to use shutter adjustments to cut off too much of the image. I want to see the perimeter line of the entire crosshatch without distortion.
> 
> 
> I originally removed all of the permalloy magnets installed by a Sony technician to remove color blotching because they caused some pretty severe distortion which he said he could not correct. I have played with reattachment of the magnets but cannot correct the convergence issues. If I can improve the distortion in the overscan area, it would help a lot in making it possible to correct the convergence.
> 
> 
> It's also kind of interesting that the upper left corner and center right distortions of the crosshatch pattern are the locations of the color blotching that I adjusted out with landing parameters!
> 
> 
> I am new to the forum, so please bear with me if my terminology is not correct. Please tell me what is right. There is a plastic frame for the CRT. There is the visable CRT screen area. There is a scan area that the guns cover in the screen area. Then there is an image area in which the image overlays within the scan area. What I called the "canvas" was the scan area which in my case is not showing the entire image and it is not a rectangle. It is not easily shown, but the left side of the scan has a curved edge that bends away from the left side as it gets closer to the upper left, where I loose the image. The geometry adjustments change the grid lines in the crosshatch but do not effect the curve in the perimeter of the scan.
> 
> 
> Comments are encouraged.



Hi,


Seems like you're much more technicaly inclined than I am so please know my comments are more layman than anything else.


I don't believe a cross-hatch should be used to adjust overscan. Overscan patterns have specific lines indicating safety zones whereas horizontal or vertical size based on areas where the cross-hatch lines end could be too extreme and cause inward bowing.


Also, was that the 960's internal cross-hatch pattern that you used? Please know using this cross-hatch caused major geometrical distoration not only on corners but throughout the entire screen when viewing regular 16x9 material whereas I was able to properly adjust the geometry (as well as could be expected for a CRT) by using patterns from an external source instead. Why, I don't know, but it worked.


Please note my horizontal overscan test pattern lines in the upper left corner don't appear perfectly straight whereas the equivalent lines in my cross-hatch pattern do. And while viewing 16x9 content this distoration is hardly noticable.


Hope this helps. Let me know.


Joe


----------



## gmarceau

how do you access an internal cross hatch pattern, Joe?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gmarceau* /forum/post/15074068
> 
> 
> how do you access an internal cross hatch pattern, Joe?



I really don't recall since I came across them once when scanning through the service menu. I didn't record the item number because I had a frightening experience and swore never to access them again.


We were unable to remove the patterns and watch the cable box connected to Video 7. Did not know a different item (PATN) is used to turn off the internal test pattern generator rather than a setting within the pattern mode itself. When accessing the generator the default for PATN is automaticly changed from "0" (off) to "1" (on).


Not knowing this I contacted Sony customer service which was also unaware of how to resolve the problem. Was told to call the technical service department during regular business hours. Not wishing to lose a night's sleep I went through the pain staking process of going through every item and adjustment until finally coming across group QM and item #1 (PATN). It was on 1 and setting it to 0 of course enabled the picture to finally return.


Naturally, in my excitement I failed to remember one needed to WRITE that new setting (0) to retain the disabling of the test pattern generator. Therefore the patterns kept re-appearing after turning the set off to get out of service. Realized my mistake after two or three times turning the set on and off.


When the test patterns are accessed one can still surf through other service items to make the necessary adjustments. Guess I don't need to worry now but there were so many different types of test patterns (white level, etc.) available I figure that temptation might cause me to mess up other settings cause so many of them are intertwined. Also, the 960's volume has to be lowered to zero before invoking the patterns (otherwise you'll hear a piercing high pitched noise).


Again, sorry I don't have the actual service code available but I think you'll be better off using external patterns which proved to be more accurate.


----------



## Fizzboom

The crosshatch pattern I used came from KenTech at the beginning of The Sony Service Codes forum. I will attach it here to this message. Actually it is labeled as a conversion test.


The point of using this pattern is that I wanted a reference of where the extent of the 1920x1080 image perimeter would be. I had hoped to be able to get the whole image within the scan area, which I cannot. Exposing the overscan area is the only way to see where the image perimeter is.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fizzboom* /forum/post/15075067
> 
> 
> The crosshatch pattern I used came from KenTech at the beginning of The Sony Service Codes forum. I will attach it here to this message. Actually it is labeled as a conversion test.
> 
> 
> The point of using this pattern is that I wanted a reference of where the extent of the 1920x1080 image perimeter would be. I had hoped to be able to get the whole image within the scan area, which I cannot. Exposing the overscan area is the only way to see where the image perimeter is.



Actually, it is convergence (which is accurate when no color is seen on the white) but that is the extent of my technical expertise LOL.


Just because the entire image may not apear on the screen does not necessarily mean you have improper overscan. The best way to tell is with the overscan test pattern with safety margins.


Since you followed the steps for vertical and horizontal centering and sizing in sections 4.1 (full) and 4.4 (wide zoom) in the AVS Sony service code link, did you continue with the rest of the geometry settings in those two sections? Adjusting the horizontal and vertical size at minimum affects the VSCO and SLIN, causing boxes on the sides to not appear the same as those in the middle of the cross-hatch pattern.


- Joe


----------



## DSperber

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Fizzboom* 
The crosshatch pattern I used came from KenTech at the beginning of The Sony Service Codes forum. I will attach it here to this message. Actually it is labeled as a conversion test.
Check out this pattern (which I attach again). It is 1920x1080, has the overscan perimiter inside of the external rectangle, has a centering-pattern, has cross-hatch, has tiny dots inside of each cell for terrific value adjusting convergence, and all around is a wonderful pattern.


It came from DisplayMate for Windows Video Edition.

 

overscan.zip 9.4423828125k . file


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Originally Posted by Fizzboom

The crosshatch pattern I used came from KenTech at the beginning of The Sony Service Codes forum. I will attach it here to this message. Actually it is labeled as a conversion test.


Originally Posted by DSperber:


Check out this pattern (which I attach again). It is 1920x1080, has the overscan perimiter inside of the external rectangle, has a centering-pattern, has cross-hatch, has tiny dots inside of each cell for terrific value adjusting convergence, and all around is a wonderful pattern.


It came from DisplayMate for Windows Video Edition.


Fizzboom,


As you can the top, bottom, left and right rows of the crosshatch pattern should not appear on the screen. Is your overscan now actually correct?


- Joe


----------



## Fizzboom

I have gone through section 4.1 Full Mode Adjustment and have a copy of 4.1 to 4.6. My geometry looks very good except for that the upper corners show a bend toward the sides that will not adjust. I was thinking that the static mode adjustments may never have been accurately set but didn't want to fiddle with rotation of the yoke magnets. I made adjustments so that I was not beyond the overscan perimeter, so I do not see the distortion I was looking at before. I would like to make proper shutter adjustments but don't have a procedure.


The overscan.zip file is a .bmp. I need a .jpg to use it with the memory stick and the memory stick window always obscures the lower part of the any image with a control bar.


I have been looking in the AVS Service Codes forum for the rest of the adjustment procedures from the same manual as 4.1 to 4.6 above but have not found them.


As I stated in earlier messages, I removed the small square permalloy magnets put in place by the technician and it greatly improved my geometry. The only permalloy magnet left in place is one narrow strip at an angle of 10 o'clock. I have tried to use the small magnets to correct horizontal divergence in the upper corners but they are not very effective and cause assymetrical distortion.


I am still in a learning mode here and will readjust some things after I am confident about what the interactions from one menu to another are. In any case, my picture quality has been improving. I am a little confused right now about making adjustments other than the full screen 1080i. The QM menu test pattern selections for 480i look like full screen patterns. When I am using one of these patterns does my set need to be tuned to a channel that has 480i content?


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi Fizzboom,


Glad to know you're making progress.


Regarding corner geometry, though not listed in those instructions there are a few more items under category 2170D-2 that will help further. If you haven't come across them, they are:


9 - UXCG (upper extra corner pin gain)

10 - LXCG (lower extra corner pin gain)

11 - UXCP (upper extra corner pin position)

12 - LXCP (lower extra corner pin position)


There might be more but these seemed enough to tackle the problem for me.


Overall, many settings affect both full and wide-zoom. For those that are dependent upon mode, can you view the cross-hatch pattern through video 7 in wide-screen as well? If not, can it be seen via a non-HD output (video one through five)? If so, just set the picture mode to wide-zoom. If not, check to see if you have a standard definition DVD with a THX optomizer (this is included with any THX certified DVD and can be found by clicking the THX logo that appears in the special features menu) -- the color pattern also has rows of squares you can refer to (though not as extensive as an actual cross-hatch pattern it should be sufficient). Just set your picture to wide-zoom.


Hope this non-technician has been of some help and do let me know if there are any other questions you might have.


Ciao,

Joe


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fizzboom* /forum/post/15091137
> 
> 
> The overscan.zip file is a .bmp. I need a .jpg to use it with the memory stick and the memory stick window always obscures the lower part of the any image with a control bar.



Any photo editing program can convert BMP to JPG.


I've attached a JPG for you (from Photoshop conversion).


Can't help with the obscuring of the lower part of any image on a memory stick... but it's going to make it tricky to adjust things down in the lower part of the screen real estate.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Fizzboom,


Here's the AVS link with instructions of how to access the internal test patterns:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post7393075 


IMPORTANT REMINDERS:


1) Turn your volume all the way down to "0" before accessing the test patterns (otherwise you will hear a loud, piercing sound).


2) When finished using the patterns the only way to turn off the internal test pattern generator is to then go to group QM, item #1 (PATN). When you access the pattern generator, QM item #1 also automaticaly goes from "0" (off) to "1" (on) and needs to be set back to "0" to enable the video source to again appear.


3) Although setting QM item #1 back to "0" returns you to the actual video source remember to WRITE the change back to "0" to retain the off setting. If you don't, when turning the set back on the patterns (and not your video source) will still appear on the screen and QM item #1 will still be at "1" (on).


----------



## Fizzboom

I finally decided to bite the bullet and jump into the Section 2: Set-Up Adjustments.


Making these static adjustments was not as risky as I thought they may be. I ended up having to push the yoke assembly about another eighth inch into the tube. You have to remove the support wedges around the yoke to do this. This got rid of any telltale color blotches at the edges and gave me much better geometry even without adjustments. Anyone doing this should be careful not to overtighten the setscrew securing the yoke in place or you could break your tube.


I was having difficulty making the static horizonal line convergence adjustments with permalloy magnets. The manual refers to rotatable disk magets which do not exist on my set or are missing. I can see slots at each corner of the plastic support in front of the purity control and vertical static adjustment handles. The horizonal convergence pot RV9001 only takes care of the center of the screen. Adjustment of the four static adjustment handles would not allow correction of horizonal line convergence over the whole screen.


Just a note hear: Convergence of the horizonal lines is actually vertical convergence of the three color dots.


After trying all sorts of magnet placements around the yoke and on the tube, I determined that these small permalloy magnets could not possibly fix my problem. My center convergence was fine. At the sides the divergence from the horizonal line was progressively worse from bottom to top with the center of the lines perfect. I tried tilting the yoke to correct the problem with no luck.


Finally I found some strong ferrite cylindrical magnets that I placed at the upper slots of the plastic support in front of the adjustment handles. This had a dramatic effect and converged the horizonal lines effectively. The strength of the magnets is enough that their fields are probably intersecting across the tube. In addition it made the correction without any vertical line distortion. The vertical lines at the sides did need some convergence adjustments but everything was symmetrical and easily corrected.


The only concern I have is if for some reason the presence of the strong magnets will have some risidual effect over time but everything looks fine right now.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fizzboom* /forum/post/15105592
> 
> 
> I finally decided to bite the bullet and jump into the Section 2: Set-Up Adjustments.
> 
> 
> Making these static adjustments was not as risky as I thought they may be. I ended up having to push the yoke assembly about another eighth inch into the tube. You have to remove the support wedges around the yoke to do this. This got rid of any telltale color blotches at the edges and gave me much better geometry even without adjustments. Anyone doing this should be careful not to overtighten the setscrew securing the yoke in place or you could break your tube.
> 
> 
> I was having difficulty making the static horizonal line convergence adjustments with permalloy magnets. The manual refers to rotatable disk magets which do not exist on my set or are missing. I can see slots at each corner of the plastic support in front of the purity control and vertical static adjustment handles. The horizonal convergence pot RV9001 only takes care of the center of the screen. Adjustment of the four static adjustment handles would not allow correction of horizonal line convergence over the whole screen.
> 
> 
> Just a note hear: Convergence of the horizonal lines is actually vertical convergence of the three color dots.
> 
> 
> After trying all sorts of magnet placements around the yoke and on the tube, I determined that these small permalloy magnets could not possibly fix my problem. My center convergence was fine. At the sides the divergence from the horizonal line was progressively worse from bottom to top with the center of the lines perfect. I tried tilting the yoke to correct the problem with no luck.
> 
> 
> Finally I found some strong ferrite cylindrical magnets that I placed at the upper slots of the plastic support in front of the adjustment handles. This had a dramatic effect and converged the horizonal lines effectively. The strength of the magnets is enough that their fields are probably intersecting across the tube. In addition it made the correction without any vertical line distortion. The vertical lines at the sides did need some convergence adjustments but everything was symmetrical and easily corrected.
> 
> 
> The only concern I have is if for some reason the presence of the strong magnets will have some risidual effect over time but everything looks fine right now.




Hi Fizzboom:


Glad things worked out OK.


- Joe


----------



## Post Blue

I scoured the retail landscape high and low, in spite of scrutiny from friends and family, to find this elusive gem, and I'd just like to say that after coming here and reading what all you folks have to say, I finally feel vindicated.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Just thought of this.


I have the cable wire split before going into the box. My cable system is all digital and I'm able to watch unscrambled stations using twin view But since the right-hand screen only supports non-digital sources would that be affected once the digital conversion takes place?


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15113581
> 
> 
> Just thought of this.
> 
> 
> I have the cable wire split before going into the box. My cable system is all digital and I'm able to watch unscrambled stations using twin view But since the right-hand screen only supports non-digital sources would that be affected once the digital conversion takes place?



If your system is all digital now, then you should not be able to watch anything in the right hand side. It sounds like they have a mix of duplicate analog/digital now if you can still use the right hand twin view.


----------



## TeeJay1952

Use a vcr for the right hand side and you get PIP.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TeeJay1952* /forum/post/15120161
> 
> 
> Use a vcr for the right hand side and you get PIP.



Was concerned about still being able to see certain unscrambled stations on the right-side once the transition begin. While our provider has been all-digital for years, as Beach notes some seem to still be duplicated in analog (which explains why these stations are repeated on different channels using the 960's QAM tuner).


----------



## shyguy3763

Been waiting for Blu ray to go 2.0 and now I'm tempted to get a player but is it worth it with only a 34 inch display? Can you notice any sound improvement with only built in speakers? I have no reciever or surround sound system







Thinking of getting the Panny BD-55K (unless suggested otherwise)

I know new players are coming spring '09 (Denon,Oppo,Pioneer) Do I wait?

HELP!


----------



## jdre

I want to get that player, too. It will provide the audio directly into my "older" 7.1 receiver. If you appreciate HDTV through your TV now, Blu-Ray is the next step better. Maybe someone here has a Blu-ray on a XBR now..


----------



## gmarceau

I had thought that the HDMI wasn't working on the tv at first and then I got a blu ray player and hooked it up via component. I didn't get what the big deal was.


Then I figured out what I did wrong and the HDMI WAS working.


I cannot go back to dvd now. Blu ray looks awesome on this set. It's like having a mini kuro...next year's model










If you haven't properly watched blu ray, you won't understand. 34 inches is definitely large enough to make a difference. It put my Oppo dv-981 to shame.


The sound coming from the speakers was definitely crisper, sharper, and all around better than dvd- even from the Oppo.


Buy a panny bd-35, ps3, or sony S550 and take the leap.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/15123115
> 
> 
> I want to get that player, too. It will provide the audio directly into my "older" 7.1 receiver. If you appreciate HDTV through your TV now, Blu-Ray is the next step better. Maybe someone here has a Blu-ray on a XBR now..



Got mixed emotions about getting a blu-ray. I know it will provide the most outstanding picture quality out there but at the same time so many of the DVDs released today also offer incredible pictures due to advanced digital mastering. One can see how far standard definition DVDs have come by comparing any original 007 DVD with the newly released frame by frame digitally remastered version.


Which brings up a point that's bothering me. Like many of you, my wife and I have an extensive collection of DVDs. We're now beginning to again watch some that we hadn't seen in seven and eight years. Couldn't help notice the slightly grainier picture on titles such as "A Summer Place", "From Hell" and "Lost Souls". Reducing the 960's user sharpness and edge enhancement (perfect for discs released the past half decade or so) eliminated the harshness at the expense of way too soft a picture.


We originally saw these discs on an older, non-digital, non-component 4x3 32 inch set. They're now being viewed for the first time on the 960 with it's super fine-pitch picture tube, superior line-doubling process, etc. The 960 certainly enhances older discs of good quality but also brings out the deficiencies inherent in some other older ones.


So my hesitation in purchasing a blu-ray player is that I'm happy with the way new releases on standard DVD appears on the 960 while the 1080i upconversion of a blu-ray player would probably also bring out more of the grain appearing on many of those older ones.


From what I've read, 1080i upconversion isn't necessary for screens under 40 inches and CRTs. Am I wrong? Would a player's 1080i upconversion actually smooth out the grainess better than the 960's line-doubler? If so, I might consider investing in a standard player with upconversion to enhance those older discs.


----------



## S. Hiller

Blu-Ray is to broadcast HDTV what DVD is to broadcast SD. Well, close enough I think, but I guess it would depend on how close you sit to the set...


----------



## Harvest

I got a Panny bd-30 about 4 months ago and hooked it up to my 960. There is a definite improvement if you move in close. I've got the audio running through a very nice 5.1 Rocket speaker setup with a separate 3 channel Aragon amp driving the LCR speakers and an Onkyo 805 handling the two surrounds. If I sit back on the couch, maybe 8 feet away, the video difference isn't so noticeable. I watched the second Pirates of the Caribbean on SD and Casino Royale on Blu-Ray recently, back to back. The production values were so high on both of them there was very little video quality difference from where I was sitting. Moving in closer and I could see it though. If you are casually watching with family and friends from mid room I don't think it matters as much. Half the distance and you start to "get it". The sound quality was more noticeable to me.


I did watch the new remastered Blu-ray releases of the Godfather series and they were noticeably improved over the SD versions, esp. the first one. I think it comes down to how critically you want to watch. The quality improvement is there but it's not exactly night and day.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi Harvest,


I also noticed a difference between DVD and BluRay when watching a store demonstration, however, it was on a 46 inch Sony LCD and the bigger the screen more is the need for BluRay or upconversion. I also agree the difference would not be like night and day when viwed on the 960's superior 34-inch CRT.


I still wonder if 1080i upconversion eliminates the grain apparent on some older DVDs in lieu of a 480p ouput enhanced by Sony's line-doubler system. The on-line consensus is that upconversion is necessary for screens larger than 40 inches so it's my guess that upconversion has no affect on graininess inherent on some discs made during the early years of DVD (before the digital mastering process improved to what it is today).


----------



## S. Hiller

The more superior the screen, the more obvious the massive difference in resolution and bit rate should be. Upconversion does nothing truly real in this regard. For any movie I really cared about, there's no way I would buy a DVD if a Blu-Ray were available...


But the 960 is a great screen, so I think we're really talking about size and viewing distance here...


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *S. Hiller* /forum/post/15128932
> 
> 
> The more superior the screen, the more obvious the massive difference in resolution and bit rate should be. Upconversion does nothing truly real in this regard. For any movie I really cared about, there's no way I would buy a DVD if a Blu-Ray were available...
> 
> 
> But the 960 is a great screen, so I think we're really talking about size and viewing distance here...




That's what I always thought as well, so I guess the lesser quality picture on some older DVDs would be even worse on other sets and would not be helped by any 1080i upconverting. It's apparent this is a reflection of older digital mastering. For example, newly remastered Bond films open with a frame-by-frame digital mastering demo comparing the old videos to the new ones; essentially that's how many of our older ones appear - a little grainy and a little more harsher with less vivid color. Yet other very old ones like "South Pacific" are beautiful. And the original "Goldeneye" (one of the first DVDs to be released) depends upon scene.


Now I know why so many titles like the "Die Hard" series are released a second time -- their original digital mastering was just not up to par. Too bad there are so many of those types to replace.


----------



## Shadowknight

I wanted to post about the 960's I had calibrated on Saturday (I have two). I engaged the services of Chad Billheimer ( http://hdtvbychadb.com/ ), both because he was available and had experience in using magenets to correct the geometric distortion often found in these Sony superfine pitch sets. He arrived earlier than expected, and spent five hours working on the living room set, then another three doing geometry and convergence corrections only (per my request) on the bedroom set. He was very meticulous in his work, redoing geometry over and over again, then checking it with a cloth tape-measure, until he was absolutely sure that it was the best that it could be. He used magnets to correct as much of the distortion as possible, fixed the convergence, calibrated ALL the input types on the set, sometime repeatedly for different resolutions supported by HDMI and OTA (1080i, 720p, 480p, 480i), and even adjusted a piece of hardware inside the TV to give the picture a tighter focus. The colors weren't very off to begin with (around 6850K pre-calibration) and were a bit saturated according to Chad, but he somehow made the colors seem stronger and better... the TV looks utterly fantastic now. For the bedroom set, I had had the colors calibrated by another technician at the beginning of the year, so I had him apply magnets to correct the geometry. He even found issues with the convergence (which was WAY off and not fixed by the prior tech) and fixed that, in addition to almost completely eliminating some purple blotches that were appearing on the upper left and right corner of the screen. Even though it wasn't a "complete" calibration for the bedroom set, it is MUCH better looking than it was before. As I'm a bit iffy about some of the work that was done on it at the beginning of the year, I am already planning to hire him again next year to tweak the bedroom set some more. He's a bit pricier than some techs, but again, he calibrates all inputs not just 2 or 3, and he is more than willing to make sure you get the most performance out of your equipment and for me that work ethic and attention to detail matter more than saving $200 vs. another tech.


By the by, while talking about the sharpness, I talked with him about how I've heard it's better to have the sharpness turned off completely. Chad told me this was incorrect for this particular set. Some TVs do need to have the sharpness turned to 0 to eliminate edge enhancement, but others actually artificially blur the picture when you turn the sharpness down below a certain point. I've had the sharpness turned down to 0 for the last 10 months and have been unhappy with how the sets looked, but kept it at 0 since I thought that was "correct". After Chad made the proper sharpness adjustment, HD looks WAY better and I enjoy watching TV and blu-rays a lot more now. If you're concerned about edge enhancecement, just remember that having it at 0 isn't necessarily correct, and if you're actively unhappy with an overly soft picture, there is nothing wrong with turning up the sharpness if it DOES look better.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi Shadow,


Lucky you, having two 960's while there are so many others out there wishing they were the owners of just one.


Happy for you with the way the callibrations came out and being so happy with the way the picture now looks. I know the feeling, having done some service tweaking myself but obviously not with the expertise and extent of Mr. Billheimer (mine were for geometry, overscan, sharpness and midi - used color adjustments recommended by Ken Tech).


And thanks for letting us know that lower sharpness settings are not recommended for the set. After tweaking with the MIDI, I was able to actualy have my sharpness go up to the mid-forties with medium edge-enhancement. The result is a razor sharp picture with no snow, graininess or harshness on both HD and 480p DVD (as posted earlier, there is a slight grain on some much older DVDs but that is due to the mastering and not my settings).


Talking about being floored by the picture, have you or anyone else in this forum seen the DVD release of 2007's "Journey To The Center Of The Earth" in 3-D? The movie itself was so-so but from the first frame to the final closing credit the 3-D effects were nothing short of fantastic! Was like those viewmasters we had as kids.


Since the 960 already has some sort of three-dimensional feel to it, I doubt the special effects would appear as mind boggeling on a flat screen LCD. While halos could be seen along with a certain amount of eye-strain wearing those red and blue glasses I would really recommend this DVD for the unique experience of seeing 3-D on one's 960 - and it comes with four pairs of glasses.


----------



## Shadowknight




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15152499
> 
> 
> Hi Shadow,
> 
> 
> Lucky you, having two 960's while there are so many others out there wishing they were the owners of just one.



Lucky me!







It was a bit difficult getting them though... I had to drive three hours from Charlotte to Durham to pick up the one for the bedroom; after I told the seller I needed to delay the trip a week due to rain (6 hour round-trip in bad weather? No way!), he got a little squirrely started asking me if I was no longer interested in the set. I managed to get it the next weekend and also picked up a 910 (used electronic store threw in Samsung HDTV tuner with it to make up for the lack of ATSC tuner). I got the 910 ISF calibrated, but then it broke 4 months later, and I had to pay $500 to get it fixed. When I found a guy in Charlotte was selling his 960 for $475, I gave the 910 to my mom (she used a 27" JVC from 1998... composite was the best connection on that sucker) to use with the Toshiba A-2 player I gave her for Christmas (yes, she was using the A-2 with a composite connection up to that point; I gave her an HDMI to DVI cable to use with the 910).



> Quote:
> Happy for you with the way the callibrations came out and being so happy with the way the picture now looks. I know the feeling, having done some service tweaking myself but obviously not with the expertise and extent of Mr. Billheimer (mine were for geometry, overscan, sharpness and midi - used color adjustments recommended by Ken Tech).



What's midi?



> Quote:
> And thanks for letting us know that lower sharpness settings are not recommended for the set. After tweaking with the MIDI, I was able to actualy have my sharpness go up to the mid-forties with medium edge-enhancement. The result is a razor sharp picture with no snow, graininess or harshness on both HD and 480p DVD (as posted earlier, there is a slight grain on some much older DVDs but that is due to the mastering and not my settings).



While settings will obviously vary between sets, try a sharpness of 25 sometime with Clear Edge turned off... that's the setting on both my sets right now, and I think it brings out the detail without adding any visible edge enhancement. When Chad was doing the geometry, we experimented with the clear edge while viewing a geometry test pattern. It seemed to create a sort of "ghost" line next to some of the geometry patterns on screen; you might be better off with that feature of the set turned off, IMO.



> Quote:
> Talking about being floored by the picture, have you or anyone else in this forum seen the DVD release of 2007's "Journey To The Center Of The Earth" in 3-D? The movie itself was so-so but from the first frame to the final closing credit the 3-D effects were nothing short of fantastic! Was like those viewmasters we had as kids.



Nope, haven't seen it. I might have to check it out.



> Quote:
> Since the 960 already has some sort of three-dimensional feel to it, I doubt the special effects would appear as mind boggeling on a flat screen LCD. While halos could be seen along with a certain amount of eye-strain wearing those red and blue glasses I would really recommend this DVD for the unique experience of seeing 3-D on one's 960 - and it comes with four pairs of glasses.



What amazes me is that after getting the 960 calibrated by Chad, the tier 0/tier 1 blu-ray discs I have (Speed Racer, Iron Man, Incredible Hulk, Shoot Em' Up) really do look 3D and like I'm looking through a window instead of at a pre-recorded image on a TV. After experiencing this, I'm still surprised by some of the posters in this forum who insist that blu-ray isn't worth watching on this set due to the size. I notice a huge difference in DVD and hi-def media. In particular, my HD-DVD of Dawn of the Dead is like night and day compared to the upscaled version of the regular DVD. Unless you drop 6K on a Pioneer Kuro, there really isn't any other consumer-level tv out there that equals the 960 in terms of picture quality.


A little off-topic, but I'm planning to get the new Echostar OTA DVR that's coming out in November to complement my home theater system (okay, I only have a single set of Insignia bookshelf speakers, but still). I've never had a DVR before, but hopefully it'll provide a good quality image when playing back recordings. Given the small size of the custom 960 stand, the only question is where I'm going to put the bugger after I get it. Is there anywhere on AVS to ask about A/V racks to hold home theater equipment?


----------



## htwaits




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shadowknight* /forum/post/15151816
> 
> 
> I wanted to post about the 960's I had calibrated on Saturday (I have two). I engaged the services of Chad Billheimer ( http://hdtvbychadb.com/ ), both because he was available and had experience in using magenets to correct the geometric distortion often found in these Sony superfine pitch sets.



Thanks for your report. It's the second direct view CRT report that I've been able to include in the list (Post#1) that's linked at the bottom of my post.


If anyone knows about other direct view CRT calibration reports please let me know.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi Shadow,


The 960 is worth a long, tiring trip in bad weather as long as it's safe to drive.


Fogive the typo - I meant MIDE and not MIDI. From what I understand, MIDE (2170P-3 item 16) gives 64 combinations of brightness, contrast, sharpness, etc. so one has to pick the best one.


My guess is with the clear-edge off and sharpness set to 25 my set might also appear the same as it now if I had chosen a different MIDE. When determining my service setting (movie mode) I kept sharpness in the middle and turned edge enhanacement off. Some options were too soft, too harsh, too dark, etc Once I settled in the one that looked best (using a HD crosshatch pattern) I then made the finer adjustments with the user settings. Had the user sharpness been lower and clear-edge kept on I might have arrived at a different MIDE with the same results. I do know that the change in sharpness going from 0 to 63 is more subtle now than it was before re-adjusting MIDE.


With these settings I don't have any "ghosts". The cross hatch lines aare sharp, straight, not edgy and the white does not bleed across into the black.


My DVR fits on the adjustable shelf of the 960's custom stand. Am I correct that you're not a cable/dish/phone susbcriber since you are using an OTA antenna? If you are a subscriber, then why not simply rent the DVR from your provider? There can't be anything OTA that isn't on cable/dish/phone.


So many of today's DVDs are digitally mastered by a state of the art process which delivers a fantasticly beautiful picture on the 960 thanks to the set's great super-fine CRT, line-doubling process, etc. No doubt it would be enhanced even more on bluray in subtle ways like more of the 3-dimensional feel you noted, etc. But I think down the road bluray will be the norm and the question will be for naught.


Now get "Journey" in 3D to enjoy the experience, even if not so much the film itself.


Joe


----------



## Shadowknight




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15153691
> 
> 
> My DVR fits on the adjustable shelf of the 960's custom stand. Am I correct that you're not a cable/dish/phone susbcriber since you are using an OTA antenna? If you are a subscriber, then why not simply rent the DVR from your provider? There can't be anything OTA that isn't on cable/dish/phone.



I've been using OTA since 1998 when I was in college. I realized that I didn't really watch anything except the local channels, so it was a waste of money for me. While I have the occasional reception problem due to living near an airport, the locals look great in hi-def, and have better image quality that if I got the same channels through satellite or cable. The DVR I get (echostar, TIVO, or even an old Sony if the guide still works after the digital transition) needs to have a free guide (or lifetime subscription) because I just don't want to deal with any monthly bills. I pay upfront for the equipment and/or guide costs and I can forget about needing to pay $12 a month or whatever.


Currently, my custom stand has a receiver and a PS3, so even if I was willing to try to stack components, the size, heat output, and shape of these two devices make it impossible to put anymore AV gear in the stand. As it is, I have my Gamecube sitting on top of one of the Insignia speakers because I have nowhere else to put it.


----------



## Ennui

Back in August, I bought the Tivo HD with lifetime support. It was $399 at that time. On cable and antenna. Cox installed an "M" card so I can record two channels simultaneously. I could not see another monthly fee.


The only strange thing is that Tivo does not separate the cable input and the antenna input. So, for example, if I select 51 on the Tivo, I go first to 51 antenna and channel up to get to 51 cable (golf). Of course the 960 fed directly does not have this problem.


I am feeding my 960 with component and HDMI and component is brighter with my current settings.


FYI.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ennui* /forum/post/15157233
> 
> 
> I am feeding my 960 with component and HDMI and component is brighter with my current settings.
> 
> 
> FYI.



My HD also appeared brighter when comparing HDMI to component but I found component could not obtain the same deep black utilizing HD test patterns for picture and brightness adjustments. The reduced black level caused the picture to lack in overall depth compared to HDMI .


----------



## tveli

i'm color blind and often enjoy not noticing the reportedly-wrong colors on my 34xbr2.

years ago i used the service manual info to adjust the geometry so it's straight on

the bottom and a little curved on the top, instead of vice versa.

recently my 9-yo son helped me adjust the color setting on the video-5,

hdr-230 HD-PVR input so people do not appear green.

(actual green people look nicely tanned to me).


----------



## Yoda1

I own this set, calibrated by both Chad few years ago and Greg Loewen more recently and let me tell you: this is the best TV in the world.


----------



## tveli

Today I tried a 34xbr2 (2nd best TV in the world) remote control on a 34xbr960 tv (best tv in the world).

Nothing spectacular occurred. The xbr2 remote did work on the expected/overlapping xbr960 functions - no easter-egg or secret picture-in-picture/side-by-side picture functionality







.

I like the way the sony web site reminds us that the xbr960/xbr2 have internal

ATSC tuners and are ready for "the DTV transition". As if we OTA-DTV utopians had forgotten about the ATSC tuners. :}


----------



## Ennui

I agree with your ranking, owning both myself.


Correction: My mistake in reading your posting, my #2 is a Sony 32XBR2 (squared) also known as a 32XBR100.


----------



## tveli

those 32 & 36 4:3 XBRs were awesome TVs also! Probably the #1 4:3 TV,

although I am partial to the panasonic 32xf56 (fx56?) which does great with an external semi-working QAM tuner (i think it does QAM64 but not QAM256, or something. it's a bit low on the brains to fully demodulate QAM, let's say).


How do folks deal with adapting for more component inputs on their 34xbr960 or xbr2?

the HDMI on the 960 is shweet, I would like that feature but I'd probably prefer a 3rd component/1080i input.

I use a gamestop component-video-switcher but it's just so annoying and non-remotecontrolled.

What do other folks use/prefer to switch component-vid for their XBR960s or XBR2s / etc ?

thank you and may all your electron beams remain optimally aligned.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tveli* /forum/post/15184684
> 
> 
> How do folks deal with adapting for more component inputs on their 34xbr960 or xbr2?


 Zektor HDS4 .


4-in, 1-out, optical/coax digital audio in and out (with built-in transcoding between optical/coax), along with component video and L/R analog audio.


And... remote control.


I have INPUT5 (on my 34XBR960) set for 480p from DVD player, and INPUT6 accepting output from HDS4 (where I have four 720p/1080i HD sources as input). That way I can set user/service adjustments for 480p (ED) separate from 720p/1080i (HD) on the two separate component video XBR960 inputs.


----------



## gmarceau

I was just curious about this: what does Super Fine Pitch mean in terms of resolution?


Also, how can I change the bottom half of the picture in the service menu- playing with the geometry? I can adjust the top half, but the bottom won't budge. At least, I don't have an idea what section it's under.


Thanks


----------



## jamesbogdanoff

kd34xbr960


Is the monitor video out a digital signal? I want to attach a dvd recorder without a tuner to and record digital televison OTA.


I am suspect that it is analog because of the PIP is analog. I don't want to purchase the video recorder to find out.


----------



## Shadowknight




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gmarceau* /forum/post/15190265
> 
> 
> I was just curious about this: what does Super Fine Pitch mean in terms of resolution?
> 
> 
> Also, how can I change the bottom half of the picture in the service menu- playing with the geometry? I can adjust the top half, but the bottom won't budge. At least, I don't have an idea what section it's under.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Consumer level CRTS have a resolution far below 1920x1080. The Superfine pitch sets have a resolution of 1400x1080, which is closer to the 1080i standard.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gmarceau* /forum/post/15190265
> 
> 
> I was just curious about this: what does Super Fine Pitch mean in terms of resolution?
> 
> 
> Also, how can I change the bottom half of the picture in the service menu- playing with the geometry? I can adjust the top half, but the bottom won't budge. At least, I don't have an idea what section it's under.
> 
> 
> Thanks



For the bottom only:


Under 2107D - 1

Item 16 LVLN (vertical lower linerearity)


Under 2107D - 2

Item 8 LCP (lower corner pin correction)

Item 10 LXCG (extra lower corner pin correction)

Item 12 LXCP (extra lower corner pin position)


Also, if you want to change the bottom overscan (either too much or too little picture) I believe it is:


Under 2107D - 3

Item 5 BBLK (Bottom Blanking Shutter)


Hope this helps -- let us know.


Joe


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shadowknight* /forum/post/15191120
> 
> 
> Consumer level CRTS have a resolution far below 1920x1080. The Superfine pitch sets have a resolution of 1400x1080, which is closer to the 1080i standard.



Does this mean the 960 doesn't meet the resolutation standard for HD? How could that be possible if many consider it has the best HD picture available?


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15193910
> 
> 
> Does this mean the 960 doesn't meet the resolutation standard for HD? How could that be possible if many consider it has the best HD picture available?



As has been noted in various threads, both ISF and THX list resolution as the #4 item in terms of importance for a good picture.


Also remember that the award winning Kuro Plasmas did not do 1920x1080 until the last generation.


----------



## Shadowknight




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15193910
> 
> 
> Does this mean the 960 doesn't meet the resolutation standard for HD? How could that be possible if many consider it has the best HD picture available?



It has superior motion handling, blacks, and colors compared to any other set on the market. Technically, there are LOTS of sets on the market that don't meet the "true" standards on the market as a lot of 720p LCD sets have resolutions higher than 1280x720. The set has resolution higher than 720p so you can consider it a true hi-def set, even if it doesn't handle a full 1080 signal.


----------



## gmarceau

I went back to a warm setting on my display and I kept the default setting on advanced video. I like nuetral, but since I can't really monitor grayscale, or have any interest in getting my tv professionally calibrated ($$$), I've gone to back to what looks best.


color and brightness are at 31- brightness at 28 was crushing blacks slightly. Shadow detail has slightly improved. I'm over the whole "can't see where the screen ends and the bezel begins" stuff. I was going kuro crazy there










Does anyone have any settings that got 2.2 on gamma? I tried some of those service menu settings with shadows and blacks, but I felt the picture suffered. I can't remember if it was Joe or someone elses, so I went back to factory settings.


I had played around making the hue colors equal @31 in the service menu. My setting was initially 30 or closer to red. Well, it seems it's true what they say about sony tvs, the picture has a slight green tint now. So, I've set the picture control with the hue at a -1 towards red. My controller is screwed up and the menu button only works on the tv.


My bluray player has slight red push to it, but I feel it evens out the sony's natural settings.


----------



## mimako

Do some xbr960's support HDCP and some not? I have an Samsung DVD-R135 DVD player the plays DVD's through the HDMI port no problem. My time warner cable box will not work with my HDMI and I get an on screen message saying my TV doesn't support HDCP. My PS3 and xBox play games fine through HDMI, but when I play a Blu-Ray movie on the PS3 or stream Netflix movies through the xBox I get a HDCP error. Is anyone else experiencing this? Is it that the my XBR960 doesn't support HDCP or has my HDCP circuitry gone bad?


Thanks


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Thanks Beach and Shadow for explaining why it's not necessary to have the highest resolution currently available in order to get the best possible picture on HD. Thought it was an important spec but as with other things, it's just another case of manufactuerers and salesmen pitching something that's not as important as it appears.


Isn't it good to know that even with all the advances made in flat panel and DSP technology the past few years that other than the Kuro plasma there still isn't a set that touches the 960?


----------



## jaydfwtx

I've grown attached to my 34xbr960 over the past four years, but I decided it was time for something larger. Anyone know what a good resale price is for this set?


----------



## dlp755




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jaydfwtx* /forum/post/15231573
> 
> 
> I've grown attached to my 34xbr960 over the past four years, but I decided it was time for something larger. Anyone know what a good resale price is for this set?



Here is one in Plano for $450:
http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/ele/947258214.html 


Ebay often has them, and over the last few months they go for between $150 and ~ $400 on auctions. They often have a "Buy It Now" price of $350 to $500.


All have been for local pickup only, of course.


----------



## celtsfan44

I plan to sell my 960 and stand if I get a good price but before doing so I would like to know if its possible via the service menu to determine how many hours the set has been turned on.


Today, I went into the service menu to see if this information was available. I knew that there are tons of picture adjustments in the service menu but I'm not interested in tweaking those. I didn't find any section that listed the amount of hours the set has been on but I did see a heading named info. I would think if the amount of time the set is turned on has been tracked, it would be under the info section but I certainly didn't see it there.


Is this information simply not tracked by the set? I am estimating my set has only been on for about 1300 hours but mostly for my own curiousity I would like to know the exact hours if this information is available. Thanks


----------



## jaydfwtx

Heh, you found my craigslist post. I only asked the question here because I'm not getting many hits on it. I'm sure there isn't a huge market for tube sets outside of the enthusiast circle.


----------



## unclepauly

I just bought this set the other day. The girlfriend says I can't open it til christmas(I sneak when shes sleeping). Got it from craigslist for $400. It looks awesome, I passed on all the LCDs and Plasmas(some were OK) for this set cause imo a nice CRT can't be beat for image quality. Thing is the guy bought 2 of these in nov06 and they have both had moderate use, nothing heavy. My question is, should I get it calibrated? Or can I get close to the most out of it myself(I understand most settings bar the SM)? It has some geometry and convergence issues in the top left and bottom right is this easily solved? Other than that it looks unbelievable I just wanna get the best picture possible.


I will scour this thread but if anybody could direct me to a guide or anything that would be much appreciated. Thanks.



Edit* - I went back a few pages and seen some of Dsperber's posts so I'm gonna try out some that stuff in a few.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/15235927
> 
> 
> I just bought this set the other day. The girlfriend says I can't open it til christmas(I sneak when shes sleeping). Got it from craigslist for $400. It looks awesome, I passed on all the LCDs and Plasmas(some were OK) for this set cause imo a nice CRT can't be beat for image quality. Thing is the guy bought 2 of these in nov06 and they have both had moderate use, nothing heavy. My question is, should I get it calibrated? Or can I get close to the most out of it myself(I understand most settings bar the SM)? It has some geometry and convergence issues in the top left and bottom right is this easily solved? Other than that it looks unbelievable I just wanna get the best picture possible.
> 
> 
> I will scour this thread but if anybody could direct me to a guide or anything that would be much appreciated. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> Edit* - I went back a few pages and seen some of Dsperber's posts so I'm gonna try out some that stuff in a few.




That's quite a Christmas present from your girl friend and I don't blame you for sneaking off to watch it when she's asleep. And at $400 for even a two year old set, that was a great purchase.


Glad you found Dsperber's posts because re-callibrating my own set definately helped. I first had to re-adjust the overscan (factory setting cut off too much of the edges) and not only did I resolve the problem but the picture then became sharper by no longer being stretched out of proportion. Then needed to re-adjust geometry since both are related to the other (see my posts 6121 and 6149 for the actual items needed for geometry plus color and Midi).


See Ken Tech's posts numbers one and two under SONY KD34XBR960SERVICE CODES in the AVS FORUM for detailed information on how to make your adjustments and for a spreadsheet with all the factory pre-sets and suggested adjustments. Don't be hesitant to try out your own as long as you take the precaution of writing down your original factory settings so as to return to them and not worry about having done something wrong.


With a 960 under the tree, am sure you and yours are going to have a very merry Christmas indeed. And you're right, today's LCDs, Plasmas and DLPs still don't make the grade of this discontinued Sony CRT.


Joe.


----------



## cobo

I have an HDMI compatibility issue with my KD-34XBR960 TV and my PS3. I've searched in various places on this and other forums, but can't seem to find the answer for my particular situation described below.


I own two Sony TVs: A KV-34HS510 for 4-5 years, and a KD-34XBR960 which I just purchased. I also have a 60 GB PS3. I had the PS3 hooked up to the '510's DVI input via an HDMI -> DVI cable. No issues. I could view both games and Blu-Ray movies with no issue.


I connected the PS3 up to the 34XBR960 with a new HDMI-HDMI cable. I get neither sound nor video (just a black screen). I reset the PS3's display settings by holding the power button for 5 seconds at power ON. No difference.


To make sure it wasn't the HDMI cable or the HDMI input on the TV, I hooked up my Samsung DTB-H260F to the '960's HDMI input. Initially, I only had video with no sound, but I was able to go into the Samsung's menu and change the audio output from Dolby 5.1 to PCM and then I had both video and sound. So I know the TV's HDMI port works, and I know the HDMI cable works. I know the PS3's HDMI port also works, because it works with my 'HS510 (via the DVI input).


I have gone into the PS3's display settings and manually tried setting the output to HDMI, but all I get is a black screen on the '960 and no sound. I contacted Sony PS3 help by phone and they took me through all the usual stuff I had already tried (mentioned above).


Anyone had this problem and know how to fix it? Should I just abandon the HDMI input on the '960 and get an HDMI --> component interface instead?


----------



## unclepauly

I don't know about how to fix your problem but I know that you wouldn't need a hdmi > component adapter cause the ps3 has component output. gl with fixing your issue.


----------



## gmarceau

I tried all of kentech's settings and it's odd because, although the color is even better than before, I've got this weird sort of horizontal line ghosting thing going on during some dark scenes.


They are about an inch apart from each other and it's faint, like phosphor trails, but I'm not sure if this was spurred on by adjusting the color settings of the gamma or what? There was another adjustment, I've got to look back at the chart, I think it was ycn or something like that. When setting this to a level of 3, it darkened the picture slightly.


Anyway, blacks are excellent with the SBRT at 28 and GAMR,G,B are set at 3. I think these were major, while all the color space adjustments were somewhat minor, yet it looks better. Especially when I bumped up some 3 rgb settings to 27.


----------



## hitman25

I just picked up the 34xbr360 I am asking how should I hook it up? I have a sony upconvert DVD. Do I use the one HDMI input to hook up from the satelite to the TV and use the upconvert dvd with composite??


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hitman25* /forum/post/15271342
> 
> 
> I just picked up the 34xbr360 I am asking how should I hook it up? I have a sony upconvert DVD. Do I use the one HDMI input to hook up from the satelite to the TV and use the upconvert dvd with composite??



I have had mine hooked up exactly the opposite of that for the past 3 years. The upconvert DVD players generally only upconvert SD DVD's over HDMI. They only send 480p over component. The sat box outputs the same signal over component and HDMI.


----------



## hitman25

So your saying if I run the dish network line composite to the tv it will still get a 1080i image?? I thought to get HD I needed to send the signal from the dish to the one input for the HDMI conection on the set. Then just run the DVD through composite.....


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hitman25* /forum/post/15273770
> 
> 
> So your saying if I run the dish network line composite to the tv it will still get a 1080i image?? I thought to get HD I needed to send the signal from the dish to the one input for the HDMI conection on the set. Then just run the DVD through composite.....



Don't know if your use of the word "composite" is accidental or intentional. But it's wrong. It should be "component" (i.e. the 3-cable red/green/blue type of connection). You can get HD source material to the 960 through this type of cable, as well as HDMI/DVI.


If you use COMPONENT video from Dish Network box to the 960 (INPUT5/INPUT6) you will be receiving 720p/1080i HD content on your 960... just as if you used the HDMI path from E* box to the 960.


"Composite" (i.e. usually the yellow RCA cable) actually is another type of connection... but not at all HD. It is strictly for SD content, namely 480i. It's actually slightly worse than S-video (i.e. cable whose connectors have 4 tiny pins inside of a shell) connection, which is another SD 480i method (better than composite).


If using HDMI from your upconverting DVD player to the 960 is the only path out of the player supporting upconverting SD DVDs and providing upconverted 1080i to the 960 (i.e. the player's COMPONENT video output provides 480p and not the upconverted 1080i) then you should use the one HDMI connection on the 960 for this purpose, as was mentioned in the previous reply.


As was also stated, the E* receiver provides the identical output over both its HDMI connection as well as its COMPONENT connection.


Again... "composite" (yellow RCA) is NOT an HD cable. It is strictly for old-fashioned 480i SD.


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hitman25* /forum/post/15273770
> 
> 
> So your saying if I run the dish network line composite to the tv it will still get a 1080i image?? I thought to get HD I needed to send the signal from the dish to the one input for the HDMI conection on the set. Then just run the DVD through composite.....



The xbr960 has 3 sets of inputs:


Inputs 1-4= Composite, 480i maximum

Inputs 5-6= Component, 1080i maximum

Input 7= HDMI


Inputs 1-4 are useless for Hi Def. You want to use HDMI for your DVD upconverting player on Input 7. You then need to get a set of component cables for your sat. box and connect it to input 5 or 6. Your sat box produces an identical image over HDMI or Component. Your DVd player will upconvert to 1080i only over HDMI. It will only output 480p over component.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hitman25* /forum/post/15271342
> 
> 
> I just picked up the 34xbr360 I am asking how should I hook it up? I have a sony upconvert DVD. Do I use the one HDMI input to hook up from the satelite to the TV and use the upconvert dvd with composite??



If you want to use more than one source through HDMI (Video 7) there are switch boxes that allow you to connect two or three devices to a single HDMI input. I forgot the one that was recommended by a forum member about a half year ago.


BTW - I've asked this question before. How do DVDs upconvered to 1080i look on the 960 compared to being output at 480p?


----------



## unclepauly

The TV upconverts to 1080i itself afaik so I guess it depends on how good of a chip you're using.


----------



## Shadowknight




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15277802
> 
> 
> If you want to use more than one source through HDMI (Video 7) there are switch boxes that allow you to connect two or three devices to a single HDMI input. I forgot the one that was recommended by a forum member about a half year ago.
> 
> 
> BTW - I've asked this question before. How do DVDs upconvered to 1080i look on the 960 compared to being output at 480p?



It depends. DVDs at 480p look slightly better than upscaled to 1080i on my PS3. On the otherhand, 480p looks WAY better than 1080i on my Toshiba A-2. Just depends on the player, really.


----------



## hitman25

Thank you very much. Just one more question. If you can get high def with component why then is the hdmi needed?


----------



## hitman25

Also i am getting my tv today...just want to know your opinion how does it stand up to todays lcd's??


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hitman25* /forum/post/15279223
> 
> 
> Thank you very much. Just one more question. If you can get high def with component why then is the hdmi needed?



Component Video is still analog and doesn't offer many options for content protection. HDMI is all digital and much easier to impliment various DRM schemes, like HDCP. Naturally, the big media corporations would like everyone to use HDMI, so they have as much control over what consumers do with their content as possible. The tradeoff for consumers is that HDMI is an all in one solution. The one HDMI cable carries both audio and video signals. With component, you need 3 cables just for the video plus one or two more for the audio. In real life use, there is very little difference in quality between the 2, if any.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hitman25* /forum/post/15279649
> 
> 
> Also i am getting my tv today...just want to know your opinion how does it stand up to todays lcd's??



I'm happy with the 960 and there is hardly an individual in this forum that has or will be parting with it except in the case where bigger screen size is concerned or that they'll be moving and it's too heavy to lug.


BTW - if you still want two devices with HDMI outputs hooked up to the 960, attached is a link for the switch box that seems to be recommended by many.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2


----------



## unclepauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hitman25* /forum/post/15279649
> 
> 
> Also i am getting my tv today...just want to know your opinion how does it stand up to todays lcd's??



It does more that stand up to them. It punches them in the nuts and stuffs them in a garbage can. I do recommend a calibration in where the calibrator does an overscan reduction and a convergence though. It improves the screen immensely.


----------



## Fizzboom

I haven't posted for a couple of weeks but I have been spending a lot of time trying to get the best geometry, convergence , and focus adjustments on my 960.


In my last post, I indicated that I had used some strong ferrite magnets to correct color fringing in the upper corners. This did not work as well as I thought because it limited the effect of other adjustments. Using permalloy magnets to correct the corners results in an upward bend of the horizontal lines in the upper left and a downward bend in the upper right. This assymetrical combination cannot be corrected with geometry adjustments. So, I decided to live with a little non-convergence in the upper corners.


There are three pot adjustments on the circuit board that sits on top of the static convergence yoke assembly. This circuit board looks different than what I see in sections of the manual. VR2 is YCH (effects red/blue diagonal convergence, separate from hexapole magnets), VR3 is TLV (vertical tilt, effects red/blue horizontal scan line alignment), VR1 is H-TRP (which I haven't found a description for, effects convergence in some way). VR2 should be adjusted to obtain even separation of the red and blue vertical scan lines before they are converged. I adjusted VR3 and VR1 to get the best balance for vertical convergence on horizontal scan lines


My experience with convergence of horizontal lines is that it can not be made perfect over the entire screen. There are a few tricks I used to get the best image. It takes a lot of time to get the static convergence magnets adjusted for the best compromise and it is best done with with a dot matrix, although for some things it helps to look at a crosshatch. Balance is all important. It may be necessary to adjust the TLH plate which slides horizontally across the neck of the tube in order to balance the convergence of the red and blue vertical scan lines on the far left and right sides. The H-STAT pot on the CX board is an overall static convergence adjustment of the vertical scan lines (horizontal convergence). Make the dynamic convergence adjustments afterwards to bring the red and blue dots together as close as possible. Focus adjustments are interrelated with convergence. The center focus should provide tight white dots. Try to get the left and right side dots to be as round as possible. Sacrifice the center dot geometry in order to make the side dots look better. Check your convergence again with a crosshatch pattern. Red line convergence is the most important because misalignment is very apparent on light colored image objects. Allow misalignment of the blue lines if it is a choice between red and blue. Keep going back and forth with all of these adjustments until you get a feel for your limitations, then make your final compromise. One last thought on focus: Best focus with the dot matrix does not always give you best image quality, text is very telling and adjusting for clear text without color edging is important.


One program I use as an image quality check is The Letterman Show. The background has a lot of detail and it is in high-def 1080i. I find myself watching the program and thinking about how good my picture looks and not paying attention to the program.


Now for a few questions to throw out there to the experts:


I have noticed that while paging through the service adjustment sections, occasionally I get a momentary sharp focus of my test pattern that I can never obtain with focus adjustments. What is going on here?


All the work I have done in service adjustments has been for 1080i. How do I force the set into other resolution/aspect ratios for their adjustments. I don't want to mess up the work I've already done for 1080i. Also, what does "DTV" mean under Service in the upper right of the service menu. Sometimes the service menu shows the resolution of the channel that it is tuned to but not always??


----------



## cobo

I recently picked up a 960 and also have (red gun) convergence issues with text in the upper corners. I have a very basic question: is the only way to adjust the convergence through the trim pots you mention on the yoke, or are there adjustments via the service menu I should try first? If the service menu is the recommended initial adjustment, is there a post that specifically identifies which parameters to adjust? If the trim pots are the only method, can you post a photo of what I should be looking for?


----------



## Fizzboom




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cobo* /forum/post/15285548
> 
> 
> I recently picked up a 960 and also have (red gun) convergence issues with text in the upper corners. I have a very basic question: is the only way to adjust the convergence through the trim pots you mention on the yoke, or are there adjustments via the service menu I should try first? If the service menu is the recommended initial adjustment, is there a post that specifically identifies which parameters to adjust? If the trim pots are the only method, can you post a photo of what I should be looking for?



I am not the expert here and am new to this forum. The adjustments I have made are not something most people would try. I am an electrical engineer but not a tv technician. I have worked with a lot of electrical equipment and usually take a cautious approach to my meddeling. Working on the 960 with the cover off is not something I can recommend to someone who doesn't have a general knowledge of the safety and equipment risks involved. I joined the forum to try and find others with some detailed knowledge about this set so I could make some improvements, and I share what I find out by experiment.


That said, certainly, learning how to use the service menu adjustments can be of value to anyone who is careful and methodical. It is imperitive to not change anything in the service menu without writing down all of the existing parameter values in case you need to go back to original settings. Never use the reset option on purpose or by mistake.


Convergence of vertical lines is actually an exercise in moving the three color scan lines horizontally into a single vertical line or three color dots together into one round white dot (not easily done over the entire screen). Convergence of horizontal lines involves moving the three color scan lines vertically into one horizontal line.


The problem with Convergence of Horizontal Lines is that it can not be done from the service menu and is rather tedious even for a trained technician. Actually, after spending some time working on it, I am surprised that there is not an easier way to do it. There is the option of using permalloy magnets that takes the skill of a magician to use and after having a service technician take care of it on my set, my set had uncorrectable geometry distortions which he could not fix.


Adjusting the static convergence with its multipole magnets and other adjustments I made would be hard to describe in a procedure. I had to develop a feel for it over a couple of weeks of trial and error.


From the service menu, you can make the vertical line convergence adjustments. Also, focus, landing adjustments and I think to a small degree geometry adjustments do effect horizontal line convergence. If there are major horizontal line convergence problems then either a technician is needed or you have to do it yourself. I lost faith in my service technician so took the plunge myself. This is not a solution for everyone.


If you are going to make service menu adjustments, you need to experiment with adjustment for a couple weeks before getting serious about making major adjustments. Start by reading the beginning of the AVS Sony Service Codes forum. See if you can get in and out of the service menu ok. Make a small change, save the change, shut off the set. Learn the menu a small piece at a time. Be sure to have a copy of the service menu spreadsheet. All of these things and more are found in this or the Codes forum. Ask an open forum question now and then and someone here will likely respond in a day or two.


Good luck


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fizzboom* /forum/post/15286292
> 
> 
> I am not the expert here and am new to this forum. The adjustments I have made are not something most people would try. I am an electrical engineer but not a tv technician. I have worked with a lot of electrical equipment and usually take a cautious approach to my meddeling. Working on the 960 with the cover off is not something I can recommend to someone who doesn't have a general knowledge of the safety and equipment risks involved. I joined the forum to try and find others with some detailed knowledge about this set so I could make some improvements, and I share what I find out by experiment.
> 
> 
> That said, certainly, learning how to use the service menu adjustments can be of value to anyone who is careful and methodical. It is imperitive to not change anything in the service menu without writing down all of the existing parameter values in case you need to go back to original settings. Never use the reset option on purpose or by mistake.
> 
> 
> Convergence of vertical lines is actually an exercise in moving the three color scan lines horizontally into a single vertical line or three color dots together into one round white dot (not easily done over the entire screen). Convergence of horizontal lines involves moving the three color scan lines vertically into one horizontal line.
> 
> 
> The problem with Convergence of Horizontal Lines is that it can not be done from the service menu and is rather tedious even for a trained technician. Actually, after spending some time working on it, I am surprised that there is not an easier way to do it. There is the option of using permalloy magnets that takes the skill of a magician to use and after having a service technician take care of it on my set, my set had uncorrectable geometry distortions which he could not fix.
> 
> 
> Adjusting the static convergence with its multipole magnets and other adjustments I made would be hard to describe in a procedure. I had to develop a feel for it over a couple of weeks of trial and error.
> 
> 
> From the service menu, you can make the vertical line convergence adjustments. Also, focus, landing adjustments and I think to a small degree geometry adjustments do effect horizontal line convergence. If there are major horizontal line convergence problems then either a technician is needed or you have to do it yourself. I lost faith in my service technician so took the plunge myself. This is not a solution for everyone.
> 
> 
> If you are going to make service menu adjustments, you need to experiment with adjustment for a couple weeks before getting serious about making major adjustments. Start by reading the beginning of the AVS Sony Service Codes forum. See if you can get in and out of the service menu ok. Make a small change, save the change, shut off the set. Learn the menu a small piece at a time. Be sure to have a copy of the service menu spreadsheet. All of these things and more are found in this or the Codes forum. Ask an open forum question now and then and someone here will likely respond in a day or two.
> 
> 
> Good luck



It would be highly advised that before you change any settings, jot down the ALL the default settings before you begin tweaking. You'll also need a test display pattern generated from a reliable high quality source.


I would suggest buying the proper signal generators (eh-hem, ebay Tektronix), but If you cannot afford that then I would try but not entirely recommend the MacGuyver approach:

Use Nokia monitor test with a signal generated by your PC. Connect the pc to the XBR960 by way of an HDMI-DVI adapter (or DVI/DVI if your PC has DVI). Ideally it would be best if you set this up with dual monitors, 1: being your standard PC screen using any resolution and 2: being the XBR960 set to 1920x1080*i*. If you are using ATi or nVIDIA graphics, there should be an advanced option to interlace the output.


Use the default screen with the colours, contrast and geometry to adjust the shape and geometry. Then go to the convergence menu: to use this, adjust the convergence till the red, blue, and green lines match up both horizontally and vertically.

http://majorgeeks.com/download960.html 


Legal Note, I have done this with countless PC CRT's but never the XBR960. I am not a pro or a tech, but I have some general knowledge of it. Please advice from a certified professional before changing or messing with your tv.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

I was noticing that DVDs (480p) weren't looking as good as they used to. Checked the service menu and found my adjustments under 2107P-3 for 480p were reset to original factory settings. No problem since all my adjustments are written down and now the picture is as vivid as before.


But I'm stumped. These 480p settings were saved a few months back and that was the last time I was in the service mode (prior adjustments for color correction, geometry and 1080i were not affected). A few weeks ago I did need to unplug the 960 because the picture didn't come on. Could this have caused it's memory to lose the last round of settings like a PC crash?


Some might recall that during the past week or so I had again been asking about upconverting DVD players and bluray. Will admit I was becoming disenchanted but thought it was just a mood swing since I remembered how happy I was when making my last user and service adjustments. Never occured to me to check service settings.


So I might be confused but at least am happy once again. Also glad I'm not the only one staying up late to post in this forum!


----------



## Dean_KS

I am setting up a AV receiver for the first time and this is all new to me.


When watching TV stations on my sbr960, how to I route Digital audio to the receiver? Analog out is always there, but when watching OTA HDTV, can I route that TV digital audio to the receiver?


If it is there on the optical out watching HDTV, is the optical out dead for an standard view channel? [I know, they are soon gone].


Suggested integration approaches?


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dean_KS* /forum/post/15292097
> 
> 
> I am setting up a AV receiver for the first time and this is all new to me.
> 
> 
> When watching TV stations on my sbr960, how to I route Digital audio to the receiver? Analog out is always there, but when watching OTA HDTV, can I route that TV digital audio to the receiver?
> 
> 
> If it is there on the optical out watching HDTV, is the optical out dead for an standard view channel? [I know, they are soon gone].
> 
> 
> Suggested integration approaches?













On the back of your XBR960, there is an Optical TOSLINK jack for digital Audio (PCM/Dolby Digital). However, it only works when you are watching a Digital source from either the HDMI port or OTA HD using the ATSC tuner. Using the NTSC tuner (analogue), the TOSLINK jack will not work.


On my Integra DTR-7.6 I have it set it up so that digital sources take priory over analogue ones. For example, MY XBR960's analogue and digital is connected to "Video 1" on my reciever. So when I switch the TV to a non-digital source the reciever senses there is no digital audio and automatically selects the analogue inputs. I get the best of both worlds and don't need to even think about it or change my AV receiver around.


It's possible that yours may do the same.


----------



## 8086

I am in need of a stand for my XBR960, I'd love to get the one made just for this TV but its very hard to find. Does anyone have any alternative suggestions that are moderately priced?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *8086* /forum/post/15292157
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the back of your XBR960, there is an Optical TOSLINK jack for digital Audio (PCM/Dolby Digital). However, it only works when you are watching a Digital source from either the HDMI port or OTA HD using the ATSC tuner. Using the NTSC tuner (analogue), the TOSLINK jack will not work.
> 
> 
> On my Integra DTR-7.6 I have it set it up so that digital sources take priory over analogue ones. For example, MY XBR960's analogue and digital is connected to "Video 1" on my reciever. So when I switch the TV to a non-digital source the reciever senses there is no digital audio and automatically selects the analogue inputs. I get the best of both worlds and don't need to even think about it or change my AV receiver around.
> 
> 
> It's possible that yours may do the same.



I have an optical cable going from our HD DVR directly to our Yamaha receiver with an HDMI from the DVR directly to the 960. When I retained the HDMI connection but used the 960's optical out to the receiver only two-channel surround was heard - no 5.1 signal was passed on by the Sony.


I've been told the 960 does not pass along 5.1 signals. If this isn't the case was there something I did wrong? There is no analog connection between the 960 and the receiver to over-ride a dolby digital signal. Switching the DVR's audio out between HDMI and Dolby Digital had no effect.


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15292869
> 
> 
> I have an optical cable going from our HD DVR directly to our Yamaha receiver with an HDMI from the DVR directly to the 960. When I retained the HDMI connection but used the 960's optical out to the receiver only two-channel surround was heard - no 5.1 signal was passed on by the Sony.
> 
> 
> I've been told the 960 does not pass along 5.1 signals. If this isn't the case was there something I did wrong? There is no analog connection between the 960 and the receiver to over-ride a dolby digital signal. Switching the DVR's audio out between HDMI and Dolby Digital had no effect.






It could be that your receiver does not have the proper features/ability or is not configured properly and not the XBR960.


Since it passes dolby digital through TOSLINK, reasoning suggests that it will.


I believe it does pass surround to the AV reciever, While watching leno in surround mode with out a center channel using my old DTR-5.5, it was near impossible to understand the monologue or half the show. Swapping back to the built in stereo TV speakers, Leno was clear as day.


Due to moving to a new city, My XBR960 is disconnected at the moment and I am unpacking all my gear. When I have it reconfigured again with the newly added Center Channel, I'll be sure to retest it and report back on my findings.



Also note that since I have moved, I now have new (better) equipment and speakers. So I will


Addendum to my previous post in your quote: My DTR-7.6 automatically switches between analogue and digital when a digital source is not active.


----------



## gmarceau

What is overscan? Is that a picture that is slightly larger or blown up? How does one correct it- through the service menu?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gmarceau* /forum/post/15294934
> 
> 
> What is overscan?



Conceptually it is like "cropping an image" in Photoshop. You draw a slightly smaller "cropping rectangle" inside the original 100% image, and then "crop image".


The "excess" area outside the cropping rectangle, to the edges of the original 100% image, is lopped off (i.e. "cropped") and disappears. This process eliminates irregularities or other undesirable anomalies around the outer edges of a photo image and produces a new, slightly smaller image which is presumably cleaner (or provides a more desired subject area in the case of true photo image cropping).


Effectively, you lose some percentage of the 100% image implicit in the content... say 5% from each dimension (e.g. 2 1/2% lost on the left and right edges, and 2 1/2% lost on the top and bottom edges).




> Quote:
> Is that a picture that is slightly larger or blown up?



Well in the case of overscan, once the cropping is performed the remaining "inner" image is actually enlarged to fill the same space on the screen that was previously occupied by the original 100% image.


So in that sense, and using my 5% overscan example, the inner 95% of the original image is all you will see. And this 95% which remains will appear to be "slightly magnified" (in comparison to the same area in the original 100% image) to fill the entire screen so it looks like 100% of the screen is still being used but it's actually occupied by only 95% of the source image which was sent by the broadcaster (or DVD player, or whatever).




> Quote:
> How does one correct it- through the service menu?



Yes. Many many posts in this and other threads on "overscan" and how to correct it.


Try starting from this post .


You will have to click on the proper secondary links to retrieve posts from the archives from (a) 2005-2006, and also (b) prior to 2005.


While the final numbers you end up with will clearly depend on the characteristics of your particular set, the general "recipe/approach" described in the above posts is still applicable.




NOTE: the visible effect of "reducing overscan" is to actually make more than 95% (to continue with my example) of the original 100% image now appear on the screen. Say... 97% now.


Since the screen size is still physically the same and will never change, the result is to "slightly shrink" what's presented so that now 97% of the original 100% fills the entire physical screen. This is instead of the previous 95% of the original 100% which was displayed.


In other words, if you have 0% overscan you display 100% of the true original broadcast image on 100% of your screen. That's the true image, in its true size displayed using 100% of available real estate. Any non-zero overscan percentage will "crop the original" and then "magnify the remainder" so that it still fills your display screen. But as you increase overscan, you see less and less of the original and whats left appears "magnified" as compared to the original. As you reduce overscan (from some percentage to a smaller percentage) it now appears "shrunken" from what you were just looking at, since a bit more image is now shown in the same physical display screen.


----------



## Fizzboom

This question is directed at DSperber.


In looking at your Service Menu XLS that you recently posted, you show columns for different resolutions with C,H,A, and S identifiiers. What do these mean?


All the work I have done in service adjustments has been for 1080i. How do I force the set into other resolution/aspect ratios for their adjustments. I don't want to mess up the work I've already done for 1080i. Also, what does "DTV" mean under Service in the upper right of the service menu. Sometimes the service menu shows the resolution of the channel that it is tuned to but not always??


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gmarceau* /forum/post/15294934
> 
> 
> What is overscan? Is that a picture that is slightly larger or blown up? How does one correct it- through the service menu?



You've probably noticed it before, especially when watching CNN or some news program with a ticker at the bottom of the screen. It's when the picture is scanned out side of the plastic bezel/frame and parts of the image are cut-off. It has "over scanned" outside of the viewing area.


Think of a movie projector that has is projecting an image too big for the silver screen and parts of the image are hitting the curtains or walls, in that case you can say it's (metaphorically) overscanning.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *8086* /forum/post/15292908
> 
> 
> It could be that your receiver does not have the proper features/ability or is not configured properly and not the XBR960.
> 
> 
> Since it passes dolby digital through TOSLINK, reasoning suggests that it will.
> 
> 
> I believe it does pass surround to the AV reciever, While watching leno in surround mode with out a center channel using my old DTR-5.5, it was near impossible to understand the monologue or half the show. Swapping back to the built in stereo TV speakers, Leno was clear as day.
> 
> 
> Due to moving to a new city, My XBR960 is disconnected at the moment and I am unpacking all my gear. When I have it reconfigured again with the newly added Center Channel, I'll be sure to retest it and report back on my findings.
> 
> 
> 
> Also note that since I have moved, I now have new (better) equipment and speakers. So I will
> 
> 
> Addendum to my previous post in your quote: My DTR-7.6 automatically switches between analogue and digital when a digital source is not active.



Hi,


Specifically, the signal is not 5.1 coming from the 960 while it is when coming directly from the DVR-HD. The 960 reduces it to 2.0.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fizzboom* /forum/post/15295609
> 
> 
> This question is directed at DSperber.
> 
> 
> In looking at your Service Menu XLS that you recently posted, you show columns for different resolutions with C,H,A, and S identifiiers. What do these mean?
> 
> 
> All the work I have done in service adjustments has been for 1080i. How do I force the set into other resolution/aspect ratios for their adjustments. I don't want to mess up the work I've already done for 1080i. Also, what does "DTV" mean under Service in the upper right of the service menu. Sometimes the service menu shows the resolution of the channel that it is tuned to but not always??



Hi Fizzboom,


The spreadsheet provided by Ken Tech in the SONY SERVICE CODES forum indicates which settings are universal and which can be adjusted for different resolutions (480p, 1080i, etc.). Simply switch the video source to something that is 480i/p (i.e., a DVD player) and your new settings will have no affect on those for 1080i.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gmarceau* /forum/post/15294934
> 
> 
> What is overscan? Is that a picture that is slightly larger or blown up? How does one correct it- through the service menu?



Just be aware that adjustments to correct overscan will require further adjustments in geometry since both horizontal and vertical size affects the overall geometric proportion. When I first corrected mine, objects on the extreme sides appeared slightly wider than when they appeared further toward the center.


Geometry is easy to correct using a crosshatch pattern on DVD essentials (or something similiar) and following the steps outlined in the service manual. Before finalizing the overscan I also suggest switching between HD and non-HD stations to be sure the picture doesn't bend in slightly in any of the corners (which will indicate too much overscan).


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fizzboom* /forum/post/15295609
> 
> 
> This question is directed at DSperber.
> 
> 
> In looking at your Service Menu XLS that you recently posted, you show columns for different resolutions with C,H,A, and S identifiiers. What do these mean?



The "C" reflected component video input. "H" was HDMI input. "A" was built-in ATSC tuner. "i" was 1394 firewire input. "S" was 480i S-video input.


I provided an input source signal for each of the SBR960's inputs, coming either from my DVR, or from my JVC DT100U, or from my 480p DVD player, or from my 480i SD JVC S-VHS VCR, or from my computer (my ATI Radeon 9800 Pro and Catalyst drivers support DVI-to-component output, which I connected to the XBR960, using DisplayMate for Windows Video Edition to generate the cross-hatch overscan test pattern at varying resolutions).


Firewire, HDMI and component video out of my JVC DT100U is at "native" resolution", so if I played back a 720p recording the output was at 720p to the XBR960. 1080i recording is output at 1080i.


DVD player is component video out at 480p.


I have my 480p DVD source going to INPUT5, separate from my 720p/1080i sources going to INPUT6 (through a component video switch). This allows me to use separate adjustments on the XBR960 for ED and HD sources.


As was pointed out, some geometry/overscan adjustments are "global" and some are unique by input and/or resolution. I went through all of the combinations during my adjustments and for making the XLS, just so I'd have everything shown for each combination... even if it's really global for everything.


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gmarceau* /forum/post/15294934
> 
> 
> What is overscan? Is that a picture that is slightly larger or blown up? How does one correct it- through the service menu?



The best test for overscan is ESPN News HD. If that's not available on your system, ESPN2HD shows it every morning between 5-6am. I recorded it on my dvr and used it as a test pattern when i adjusted my set.


BTW, I skipped the first 2 steps of 2170D and went straight to mid3. I am happy with the changes and everything looks right to my eyes, but exactly what did I miss out on with not adjusting 2170D 1&2? Just curious.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LongRufus* /forum/post/15298957
> 
> 
> BTW, I skipped the first 2 steps of 2170D and went straight to mid3. I am happy with the changes and everything looks right to my eyes, but exactly what did I miss out on with not adjusting 2170D 1&2? Just curious.



As with Photoshop, I describe the 2170D adjustments as the "canvas"... i.e. the background. This defines the "outer limits" of what can be seen.


I describe the MID3 adjustments as the "image"... i.e. the foreground. You can adjust the image size (i.e. the boundaries of the image), and conceptually slide the whole thing around on the canvas.


Ideally, you spread the canvas with the 2170D controls to allow the entire screen to contain the image. Then you adjust the image on top of the canvas with the MID3 controls, to allow the image to occupy the entire canvas... i.e. the entire screen.


Of course these adjustments typically reflect some non-zero amount of overscan because flat-screen CRT's are not as perfect around the extreme edges of the rectangular screen as fixed-pixel flat panel displays. The point of having a little overscan is to eliminate video noise and non-image broadcast signal data that appears at the extreme edges and usually will be visible if you have set 0% overscan.


If you only played with MID3 and it looks good to your eyes, that's what matters. If you have a cross-hatch test pattern that's the true test as to whether or not you really needed to touch 2170D or not. If you have some show you can use (like the ESPN news mentioned, or CNN HD) where they have a crawl on the bottom, or a bug, or as with the election season they had stationary graphics on the left and right side of the screen, this can be used as a "real world test".


----------



## 8086

Anandtech goes in to some detail on the issue of overscan with computer monitors.

http://www.anandtech.com/multimedia/showdoc.aspx?i=2181


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/15299366
> 
> 
> If you only played with MID3 and it looks good to your eyes, that's what matters. If you have a cross-hatch test pattern that's the true test as to whether or not you really needed to touch 2170D or not. If you have some show you can use (like the ESPN news mentioned, or CNN HD) where they have a crawl on the bottom, or a bug, or as with the election season they had stationary graphics on the left and right side of the screen, this can be used as a "real world test".



Thanks for the explanation. I read your Photoshop analogy in the original instructions and didn't understand why I should care about the "underlying layer" if I was going to fill the entire screen with the mid3 corrections anyway. But the 2170D settings make more sense now.


It's funny you mention the Election Night graphics, NBC's left and right text made me realize just how bad my overscan was. I was missing almost 2 full letters on each side. I knew from the Fox HD bug my overscan wasn't perfect, but I try not to get too picky about minor stuff or it winds up driving you insane. It's like the aperture grill wires in CRT's, if you notice them once, your eyes will be drawn to them for the rest of your life


----------



## unclepauly

I used to obsess over getting rid of all the minor annoyances with displays. I eventually got tired of nitpicking all the defects or whatever and now just focus on the most important aspects of a display which to me are color, contrast, black level, and resolution. I seriously don't care anymore if a ticker at the bottom of the screen isn't 100% straight. I own a samsung LCD, and a sony SXRD so I've seen perfectly straight and to me it's not that big a deal. Overscan though needs to be minimized as much as possible(again imo).


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15281998
> 
> 
> I'm happy with the 960 and there is hardly an individual in this forum that has or will be parting with it except in the case where bigger screen size is concerned or that they'll be moving and it's too heavy to lug.
> 
> 
> BTW - if you still want two devices with HDMI outputs hooked up to the 960, attached is a link for the switch box that seems to be recommended by many.
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2



Buy.com has a great deal for anyone looking for an HDMI switch. I bought this same model last Xmas season for $25 and it works great with my 960. I have used it with an HTPC(DVI/HDMI cable), PS3, Toshiba A2 and a Sony S350 Blu Ray at various times over the past year, all without a single glitch. Don't drag your feet though, at $10.95 with free shipping, this will be gone fast.

http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=204972580


----------



## hitman25

Hello:


I picked up my 960 last Friday. The guy said when you unplug it and let it sit it takes a while to come on. I had three of us take it home and up the stairs. Turned it on at 9:30pm. The picture didn't come on and it was 10pm? I called the guy he says this is what it does when unplugged. I hook up my other tv and watch it. AT 6:30 am I turned it off and back on and the picture showed up and it was great. Turned it off 5 times no problem. Went to bed and turned it off each night and came right back on with out a hitch. Love the upscale DVD. Looked at 4 movies over the weekend on HDMI. I can't wait to see what BLUE RAY looks like. Is there really a difference?? Thanks for all the help!


----------



## hitman25

Also how do you work the Picture in Picture function? Also does it matter if I use monster 1000 HDMI cables or something less exspensive?


Thanks.


----------



## hitman25

I also heard this tv has a problem with the PS3 due to the 720p resolution. Since most high definition is in 720p (ESPN) or 1080i how does the 960 show 720P??


----------



## wbrett

You'll love Blu-ray. It's as good as it gets.


Monoprice has cheap hdmi cables that everyone swears by. I have 2 myself.


The PIP is called Twin View and if you have digital cable/sat it's mostly going to be useless because it can only show low res in the 2nd window.


Someone else can talk about the 720 upscaling, I've never totally understood it but the 960 will have no trouble all with 720.


----------



## Shadowknight




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hitman25* /forum/post/15304425
> 
> 
> I also heard this tv has a problem with the PS3 due to the 720p resolution. Since most high definition is in 720p (ESPN) or 1080i how does the 960 show 720P??



Not true. There are 1080i PROJECTION CRTs that can't display a 720p signal (the 960 is a direct-view), forcing the PS3 to drop to 480p*, but this set will scale the 720p signal to 1080i


* EDIT: 480p, not 720p.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi Hitman,


Congratulations on your new 960. DVDs look so great upscaled that I don't know how much better blu-ray would look if both were digitally mastered equally.


The picture-in-picture function is called "twin view" and all you need to do is to press the twin-view button on the remote to activate it. Slide the directional button left and right to highlight the desired screen to hear audio and switch between inputs (NOTE: all video sources can be seen on the left, only non-digital sources will be displayed on the right). Slide this same button up or down to adjust picture size (one gets larger as the other gets smaller).


Press "twin view" once more to go back to full screen. The screen that was highlighted will be the one that remains on.


I made the mistake of purchasing a very expensive HDMI cable and later found that price doesn't affect picture quality, it only protects the cable more from breaking (how often would that happen?).


Can't comment on 720p resolution since all my HD stations are upconverted to 1080i.


Do you have your cable wire split so you can watch unscrambled stations without the box? If so, the set might have taken more than a half-hour to initially power up if it was scanning the available unscrambled stations to lock into memory.


You'll love the 960!


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hitman25* /forum/post/15303137
> 
> 
> Also how do you work the Picture in Picture function? Also does it matter if I use monster 1000 HDMI cables or something less exspensive?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



PiP only works when the smaller picture is an analogue ATSC source and it cannot display an HDMI image in the PiP box.


Don't overspend on HDMI cables, in fact monster isn't very high quality. Monster is like an ugly chick in very expensive pretty clothes.


Blue Jeans Cable offers the highest quality Cables for the most reasonable prices. Their HDMI cable has a higher build quality than Monster for a fraction of the price.


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hitman25* /forum/post/15302866
> 
> 
> Hello:
> 
> 
> I picked up my 960 last Friday. The guy said when you unplug it and let it sit it takes a while to come on. I had three of us take it home and up the stairs. Turned it on at 9:30pm. The picture didn't come on and it was 10pm? I called the guy he says this is what it does when unplugged. I hook up my other tv and watch it. AT 6:30 am I turned it off and back on and the picture showed up and it was great. Turned it off 5 times no problem. Went to bed and turned it off each night and came right back on with out a hitch. Love the upscale DVD. Looked at 4 movies over the weekend on HDMI. I can't wait to see what BLUE RAY looks like. Is there really a difference?? Thanks for all the help!



The beauty owning a crt and one it's best assests is that it can display video in it's native resolution and does not need a video scaler, thus avoids interpolation. By upscaling your video, you are adding artifacts, noise, and interpolating the image.


Yes, there is a difference between Blu-Ray and DVD. You can test this on your XBR960 with out ever buying a Blu-Ray player or disc. Just connect an antenna, tune your TV to Jay Leno on NBC in SD, then switch over to Leno in 1080i.


EDIT: My Local PBS stations (2x ch3 and ch16) occasionally simulcast the same program: One in 480i and on another channel in 720P. A few other stations in my area do the same except they do 1080i and 480i.


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cobo* /forum/post/15285548
> 
> 
> I recently picked up a 960 and also have (red gun) convergence issues with text in the upper corners. I have a very basic question: is the only way to adjust the convergence through the trim pots you mention on the yoke, or are there adjustments via the service menu I should try first? If the service menu is the recommended initial adjustment, is there a post that specifically identifies which parameters to adjust? If the trim pots are the only method, can you post a photo of what I should be looking for?



I have the same issue in the top right corner.


The XBR960 features auto-convergence and it will self adjust the red during the first few minutes of operation. If you still feel the need to adjust convergence and believe the auto-convegence is not doing it's job, then be sure that your CRT is fully warmed up before you make any adjustments.


My red convergence issue usually disappears after a few minutes of running in it's typical operating temperature.


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shadowknight* /forum/post/15305470
> 
> 
> Not true. There are 1080i PROJECTION CRTs that can't display a 720p signal (the 960 is a direct-view), forcing the PS3 to drop to 720p, but this set will scale the 720p signal to 1080i



Correct, a lot of early manufacturers were trying to promote one resolution over another (format war). Later manufactures realized this was a losing battle for both sides, so in response to some consumer demand they created sets added support for all resolutions.


----------



## 8086

Not all HDMI switches are alike, many feature differences separate them.


See Robert Heron's explanation and review.


http://zdpub.vo.llnwd.net/o2/ziffdav...CMAG&movie=R88 
http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,1895,2327355,00.asp


----------



## 8086

For those concerned about multichannel from their XBR960's TOSLINK jack, go back a few pages and read this

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post13738458


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *8086* /forum/post/15306017
> 
> 
> Yes, there is a difference between Blu-Ray and DVD. You can test this on your XBR960 with out ever buying a Blu-Ray player or disc. Just connect an antenna, tune your TV to Jay Leno on NBC in SD, then switch over to Leno in 1080i.



Agree there is a difference between bluray and standard DVD but not like the example cited above. Even though both are 480i/p, there are other factors that enable standard DVDs to have much higher picture quality than standard TV broadcasts.


The only way to compare the two is the DVD version to that of blueray.


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15307386
> 
> 
> Agree there is a difference between bluray and standard DVD but not like the example cited above. Even though both are 480i/p, there are other factors that enable standard DVDs to have much higher picture quality than standard TV broadcasts.
> 
> 
> The only way to compare the two is the DVD version to that of blueray.



Sure, the audio is definitely improved over HD broadcasts. But I live about 10 miles from my local NBC's transmitter and I have a very large Channel Master Antenna for Radio and HDTV, so my signal strength is usually about 98%. I also have a standard Converter box and switching between it's input and the ATSC tuner, the sharpness differences and detail are very noticeable.


For general TV viewing and BD-Movies, I tend to prefer 1080i but for my PS3 games I have found that 720p works better though not by a huge margin.


----------



## unclepauly

Don't matter how strong an antenna is it can't pick up something that is not there.


----------



## hitman25

i HAD THIS THE FIRST NIGHT I BOUGHT IT HOME. WORK FINE SATURDAY, SUNDAY MONDAY MORNING. lAST NIGHT I HEAR IT COME ON NO PICTURE?? I LEFT IT ON ALL NIGHT NO PICTURE? I CAN HEAR IT COME ON FLASH BUT NO PICTURE?? WHAT IS GOING ON?? PLEASE NEED HELP FAST!


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hitman25* /forum/post/15309676
> 
> 
> i HAD THIS THE FIRST NIGHT I BOUGHT IT HOME. WORK FINE SATURDAY, SUNDAY MONDAY MORNING. lAST NIGHT I HEAR IT COME ON NO PICTURE?? I LEFT IT ON ALL NIGHT NO PICTURE? I CAN HEAR IT COME ON FLASH BUT NO PICTURE?? WHAT IS GOING ON?? PLEASE NEED HELP FAST!



Unplug the TV's power cord for a couple minutes it should reset itself.


----------



## hitman25

THE LIGHT BLINKS A COUPLE OF TIMES...HMM.i HAVE IT PLUG IN A SURGE PROTECTOR. THEY SAID UNPLUG IT FOR A FEW MINUTES THEN PLUG IT DIRECTLY INTO THE WALL....I HOPE THAT IS THE PROBLEM AND NOT A BOARD IN THE TV. I CALLED AROUND AND THE SONY PEOPLE WANT $125 JUST TO SHOW UP!!


----------



## Dean_KS

Sometimes the unit needs to be powered down so it can do a clean reboot. This is well known here. Bypassing the surge protector may not be needed. If the surge protector has a switch, turn off then on.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hitman25* /forum/post/15311075
> 
> 
> THE LIGHT BLINKS A COUPLE OF TIMES...HMM.i HAVE IT PLUG IN A SURGE PROTECTOR. THEY SAID UNPLUG IT FOR A FEW MINUTES THEN PLUG IT DIRECTLY INTO THE WALL....I HOPE THAT IS THE PROBLEM AND NOT A BOARD IN THE TV. I CALLED AROUND AND THE SONY PEOPLE WANT $125 JUST TO SHOW UP!!



Don't worry - I was advised the same thing by a Sony Service representative after my set wouldn't come on after the red light stopped blinking. Even though the manual states to plug it into a surge protector, I was told the 960 needs full electrical current to power up and degause fully which surge protectors prevent.


----------



## hitman25

Ok..so it did this the Friday night...worked saturday..sunday and Monday...then it won't fully come on again...and this just needs to be unplugged wait 5 minutes and plugged into the wall?? am surprised at Sony with this problem with a $2000 TV! I just hope it works when I get home...the estimated repair i was told is $300 smackers!! I read in the other thread a board needs to be replaced?? I hope not...


----------



## Fizzboom

I am trying to understand the procedure for setting the overscan area.


Initially, I only made adjustments in the 2170D sections and my geometry was good. I used the first pattern in the QM section which worked well for me, no distortions. When I sized the pattern on the screen, I put the dashed border just outside of view. I adjusted the blanking shutters to just cut the edges clean. Then recently, I thought I should look at the effect of making changes in the MID3 section. I adjusted the image so the dashed border just came back into view. it isn't clear to me what I should be trying to do or look for.


----------



## tveli

anyone run an xbr960 off a generator? i'd been running my 34xbr32 thusly; finally got grid power back today after 5 days.

the 34xbr2 did some tutti frutti things at the left & right 1/3 of the screen, evident even to the color-vision-challenged. but the center was great and amazingly little jitter/artifacts from the funky generator power.

cable was out for 5 days too so atsc tuner was mighty handy.

my portable tvs were useful too - it's going to be annoying dealing with atsc and a portable tv somehow in the next power outage, but we'll have to do it else we'll miss the news story about the dude who got too drunk for his own good and tried to force a repair crew to fix his power, so the cops tased him.

ps - sounds like the xbr960 has cool things in the service menu that 34xbr2 does not have. i can't get a grid pattern for 34xbr2 without using an external signal generator, as far as i know.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fizzboom* /forum/post/15312487
> 
> 
> I am trying to understand the procedure for setting the overscan area.
> 
> 
> Initially, I only made adjustments in the 2170D sections and my geometry was good. I used the first pattern in the QM section which worked well for me, no distortions. When I sized the pattern on the screen, I put the dashed border just outside of view. I adjusted the blanking shutters to just cut the edges clean. Then recently, I thought I should look at the effect of making changes in the MID3 section. I adjusted the image so the dashed border just came back into view. it isn't clear to me what I should be trying to do or look for.



In section 2107D-3, item 0 (HBLK) is for horizontal blanking and item 3 (VBLK) is for vertical blanking. They can either be set at 1 or 2 and the default for each is 1. Switch between the two when watching a full screen HD program and stick to the setting that shows the most picture PRIOR to adjusting the horizontal and vertical size (i.e., overscan).


Don't know if there is an overscan pattern in the QM section but If not, there is another way to assure it's set properly.


1) Be sure the picture is centered both horizontally and vertically before doing anything else.


2) Tune to any HD station that's actually broadcasting in HD (no 4x3 stretching).


3) Adjust both the vertical and horizontal sizes to the point where you start to see black on the edges so the picture will appear too small for the screen on all four sides.


4) Now, slowly re-adjust the horizontal and vertical sizes to the point where those black borders disappear and the picture fills the screen.


5) Switch to other HD stations just to be sure those black edges don't appear on others (most likely won't happen but if so, adjust accordingly).


Overscan will then be properly adjusted.


6) Next, re-do your geometry for 1080i full screen (sorry about that).


7) Do same for wide zoom, etc. geometry (only change items that are independent from full mode).


Again, sorry about the extra steps needed but as we've mentioned, changes in horizontal or vertical sizes will slightly affect geometry.


Also, don't be fooled by station graphics that cut off at the edges. One station here in New York actually had some letters cut off on the left, beyond the point where the black border started appearing.


Hope this answers your questions and helps with your adjustments.


----------



## Fizzboom

So that explains the 2170D-3 adjustments but what about the MID3 adjustments? Which should be done first?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fizzboom* /forum/post/15317583
> 
> 
> So that explains the 2170D-3 adjustments but what about the MID3 adjustments? Which should be done first?



Fizz,


Found no need for MID3 since satisified with overscan and geometry from other sections. Bur refer to post #511 on page 18 for answers to your question.


----------



## pappucho

Anyone know what would be a good price to pay for one of these used?


Edit: Sorry, just found my answer a few posts back.


So my second question, If I did pick one up for around 400 bucks, how does it hold it's own against all other tv's out there in the under a grand range. I have an XBR970 which I'm pretty happy with, but always wanted the "Super Fine Pitch" model and the 960 looks to be the reigning king of 34" sets. Does this set still deserve all the praise it gets here, even after all the improvements in the last few years?


----------



## hitman25

HELLO:


I got the 34xbr960 to come back on last night by turning off the cable box and then turning off the tv. Didn't try the unplugging and waiting for 5 minutes....is this a constant problem with this tv or does it need a service call? Also will this TV play a playstation 3?


----------



## tveli

doubletap25, your xbr960 should be awesome with the PS3, yesssssssssss.


----------



## hitman25

DOES IT PLAY A PS3?? I HEARD THAT IT HAS A PROBLEM PLAYING BLUE RAY ON THE PS3 AND WON'T UPCONVERT THE 720P GAMES TOO 1080I. iS THIS TRUE BEFORE I BUY A PS3?


ALSO IS TH PROBLEM OF THE TV NOT COMING ON SOME TIME THAT COMMON?


----------



## bbbobbb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hitman25* /forum/post/15321544
> 
> 
> DOES IT PLAY A PS3?? I HEARD THAT IT HAS A PROBLEM PLAYING BLUE RAY ON THE PS3 AND WON'T UPCONVERT THE 720P GAMES TOO 1080I. iS THIS TRUE BEFORE I BUY A PS3?
> 
> 
> ALSO IS TH PROBLEM OF THE TV NOT COMING ON SOME TIME THAT COMMON?



Dude, turn off your CAPS LOCK key please.


Yes, it works fine with a PS 3.


Plug it directly into the wall outlet and not a power strip and you will be fine.


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hitman25* /forum/post/15321544
> 
> 
> DOES IT PLAY A PS3?? I HEARD THAT IT HAS A PROBLEM PLAYING BLUE RAY ON THE PS3 AND WON'T UPCONVERT THE 720P GAMES TOO 1080I. iS THIS TRUE BEFORE I BUY A PS3?
> 
> 
> ALSO IS TH PROBLEM OF THE TV NOT COMING ON SOME TIME THAT COMMON?



The XBR960 has no trouble converting 720p, it's the PS3 that is unable to upconvert certain games (although I'm not sure if they ever fixed the problem.) It's a PS3 problem, not a XBR960 problem.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi,


A question for blu-ray owners who use switch boxs so both blu-ray and cable can be seen via HDMI (input 7): does your blu-ray player provide enough flexibility to adjust color, contrast, brightness and sharpness so you do not have to change those already set for cable-HD on your 960?


----------



## hitman25

Hello:


I have read that the PS3 is one of the top Blu Ray players.

I am reading here one second it works fine on this TV and the next there still

Might be a problem? I would just like to know if anyone has a PS3 hooked up

To this TV and how it works and how did they hook it up. How do the games play on it and how do the movies play on it.


Thanks


----------



## jasonarmadillo

Hi,


I just picked up a used xbr960 and I am trying to setup my Mac as a DVR via ilink/firewire using Apple's Virtual DVHS. I have been able to receive a signal from the tv and watch the feed on my Mac using VLC but I cannot get anything to record. I'm so close! Any help would be appreciated!


Thanks!

Jason

Charlottesville, VA


----------



## jasonarmadillo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hitman25* /forum/post/15328403
> 
> 
> Hello:
> 
> 
> I have read that the PS3 is one of the top Blu Ray players.
> 
> I am reading here one second it works fine on this TV and the next there still
> 
> Might be a problem? I would just like to know if anyone has a PS3 hooked up
> 
> To this TV and how it works and how did they hook it up. How do the games play on it and how do the movies play on it.
> 
> 
> Thanks



I've got my PS3 hooked up via HDMI and I prefer use it at 720p instead of 1080i. I can see the interlacing on fast action when it's set at 1080i and that bothers me. Same goes for the Xbox 360.


I haven't actually watched any Blu-Ray movies yet!


----------



## redhatyellow

Anyone know where I can download a firmware update?


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jasonarmadillo* /forum/post/15328877
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I just picked up a used xbr960 and I am trying to setup my Mac as a DVR via ilink/firewire using Apple's Virtual DVHS. I have been able to receive a signal from the tv and watch the feed on my Mac using VLC but I cannot get anything to record. I'm so close! Any help would be appreciated!
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Jason
> 
> Charlottesville, VA



Have you tried various channels? Where are you getting your signal from OTA, cable or sat? Since you can watch the feed but not record it, I am guessing it is a 5c encryption issue. I am not familiar with the Mac software, but in my windows setup, the software didn't care if I recorded from my cable box firewire port or the 960's port. Both worked the same, so the 960 isn't adding any additional limitations. Good luck.


----------



## Shadowknight




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hitman25* /forum/post/15328403
> 
> 
> Hello:
> 
> 
> I have read that the PS3 is one of the top Blu Ray players.
> 
> I am reading here one second it works fine on this TV and the next there still
> 
> Might be a problem? I would just like to know if anyone has a PS3 hooked up
> 
> To this TV and how it works and how did they hook it up. How do the games play on it and how do the movies play on it.
> 
> 
> Thanks



There are no problems using a PS3 on a 960. Games and movies look fantastic on it.


----------



## unclepauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shadowknight* /forum/post/15332370
> 
> 
> There are no problems using a PS3 on a 960. Games and movies look fantastic on it.



Agreed. I've been watching movies and playing games on it all day today. It works just like any other TV I own? I don't get where any rumor even came from? Btw movies and especially games look better on this than anything I've ever seen, it's pure eye candy. So glad I bought this set a couple weeks ago.


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tveli* /forum/post/15316909
> 
> 
> anyone run an xbr960 off a generator? i'd been running my 34xbr32 thusly; finally got grid power back today after 5 days.
> 
> the 34xbr2 did some tutti frutti things at the left & right 1/3 of the screen, evident even to the color-vision-challenged. but the center was great and amazingly little jitter/artifacts from the funky generator power.
> 
> cable was out for 5 days too so atsc tuner was mighty handy.
> 
> my portable tvs were useful too - it's going to be annoying dealing with atsc and a portable tv somehow in the next power outage, but we'll have to do it else we'll miss the news story about the dude who got too drunk for his own good and tried to force a repair crew to fix his power, so the cops tased him.
> 
> ps - sounds like the xbr960 has cool things in the service menu that 34xbr2 does not have. i can't get a grid pattern for 34xbr2 without using an external signal generator, as far as i know.



With all due respect [CAPS ON] DO NOT RUN ANYTHING WITH TRANSISTOR /IC CIRCUIT BOARDS OFF A HOME GENERATOR [/CAPS OFF].


The Voltage regulation on these units are not commercial in nature and will screw up things like this.


In the very worst case, get a UPS (AND SPECIAL NOTE HERE, A $200 UNIT WILL NOT WORK WITH THIS SET) like a APC 2200XL that will put out enough wattage for this set and will give you a good, clean constant power.


Otherwise, you will most likely screw something up.


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *8086* /forum/post/15306047
> 
> 
> I have the same issue in the top right corner.
> 
> 
> The XBR960 features auto-convergence and it will self adjust the red during the first few minutes of operation. If you still feel the need to adjust convergence and believe the auto-convegence is not doing it's job, then be sure that your CRT is fully warmed up before you make any adjustments.
> 
> 
> My red convergence issue usually disappears after a few minutes of running in it's typical operating temperature.



This post is really comical....it does not have an autoconvergence. The convergence is off when its cold and gets closer when it warms up - nothing is converging automatically - you would need an exact sensor in the room covering the entire screen for that to happen.


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hitman25* /forum/post/15312190
> 
> 
> Ok..so it did this the Friday night...worked saturday..sunday and Monday...then it won't fully come on again...and this just needs to be unplugged wait 5 minutes and plugged into the wall?? am surprised at Sony with this problem with a $2000 TV! I just hope it works when I get home...the estimated repair i was told is $300 smackers!! I read in the other thread a board needs to be replaced?? I hope not...



Your TV is at least 30 months old - and maybe even 50+ months old.


Its not like you just purchased a new set.


As I have noted over and over, I have always purchased a 5 Year EW for all my HDTVs and always come out WAY AHEAD on those purchases.


Appears you would have as well.


----------



## cobo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hitman25* /forum/post/15328403
> 
> 
> Hello:
> 
> 
> I have read that the PS3 is one of the top Blu Ray players.
> 
> I am reading here one second it works fine on this TV and the next there still
> 
> Might be a problem? I would just like to know if anyone has a PS3 hooked up
> 
> To this TV and how it works and how did they hook it up. How do the games play on it and how do the movies play on it.
> 
> 
> Thanks



I tried to connect my PS3 to my 960 via an HDMI cable and could get neither a picture nor sound. I reset the PS3's output and tried all the other techniques for getting it to work via the HDMI cable, but it never did. It seems others here don't have the same issue.


I ended up connecting the PS3 via the component interface on Video 6 instead.


----------



## Ivan244

I have the PS3 connected directly to my 960 via HDMI and everything works just fine. The only issue I had was no sound originally. But by configuring the sound options on the PS3 I was able to get around that.


Edit: I have the originally 60gb hd PS3. Not sure if newer models did something different that might cause an issue.


----------



## a_ok2me




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15199444
> 
> 
> Thanks Beach and Shadow for explaining why it's not necessary to have the highest resolution currently available in order to get the best possible picture on HD. Thought it was an important spec but as with other things, it's just another case of manufactuerers and salesmen pitching something that's not as important as it appears.
> 
> 
> Isn't it good to know that even with all the advances made in flat panel and DSP technology the past few years that other than the Kuro plasma there still isn't a set that touches the 960?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Shadowknight* /forum/post/15152814
> 
> 
> What amazes me is that after getting the 960 calibrated by Chad, the tier 0/tier 1 blu-ray discs I have (Speed Racer, Iron Man, Incredible Hulk, Shoot Em' Up) really do look 3D and like I'm looking through a window instead of at a pre-recorded image on a TV... Unless you drop 6K on a Pioneer Kuro, there really isn't any other consumer-level tv out there that equals the 960 in terms of picture quality.



Does anyone have a crt next to a Kuro in a dark scene? I'd like to see which is better and has more detail.


----------



## WJonathan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cobo* /forum/post/15341560
> 
> 
> I tried to connect my PS3 to my 960 via an HDMI cable and could get neither a picture nor sound. I reset the PS3's output and tried all the other techniques for getting it to work via the HDMI cable, but it never did. It seems others here don't have the same issue.
> 
> 
> I ended up connecting the PS3 via the component interface on Video 6 instead.



You need to try another device via HDMI to confirm the TV isn't the problem. There were a lot of HDMI board failures on the 960 models.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Had the time and patience to go through the entire 2107P category to see if my factory service adjustments were set at the Sony defaults (of course, except for the few I had changed previously).


About two-thirds under 2107P-1 were not and neither were some others for the rest of the category. For example, the BDOF (color temperature) was at 34 while the factory default was 45. BCUT (blue/bias cutoff) was set to 38 instead of 30. GAMM and GAMS for 480p was at the 1080i default while 1080i was set at 480p.


Of course, recorded the factory pre-sets before making any changes and compared them to both the default and KenTech's suggested adjustments. Will admit I understood what some items were but there were many that I didn't. But I'm glad I took the time (and patience) to go through the entire section because overall the defaults were indeed better than those of the factory (why these were selected I do not know).


After making these service adjustments I went back to my HD test patterns and saw minute changes were required for the user settings.


The overall change in picture quality was more subtle than night and day (my wife didn't notice anything), however, there is definitely more detail and more natural color. Also noticed the white level (luminence?) on print is stronger and sharper (and today's game in Foxboro played in the snow was a perfect example of how the whites are better). DVDs in 480p also improved as some 480p settings were also different from the defaults.


I know default settings aren't the final word and in cases where KenTech made his own suggestions (mostly color) I saw his settings did work better.


Again, not a major change in picture quality (once more, the wife saw no difference) but the improvement is there.


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15351103
> 
> 
> Had the time and patience to go through the entire 2107P category to see if my factory service adjustments were set at the Sony defaults (of course, except for the few I had changed previously).
> 
> 
> About two-thirds under 2107P-1 were not and neither were some others for the rest of the category. For example, the BDOF (color temperature) was at 34 while the factory default was 45. BCUT (blue/bias cutoff) was set to 38 instead of 30. GAMM and GAMS for 480p was at the 1080i default while 1080i was set at 480p.
> 
> 
> Of course, recorded the factory pre-sets before making any changes and compared them to both the default and KenTech's suggested adjustments. Will admit I understood what some items were but there were many that I didn't. But I'm glad I took the time (and patience) to go through the entire section because overall the defaults were indeed better than those of the factory (why these were selected I do not know).
> 
> 
> After making these service adjustments I went back to my HD test patterns and saw minute changes were required for the user settings.
> 
> 
> The overall change in picture quality was more subtle than night and day (my wife didn't notice anything), however, there is definitely more detail and more natural color. Also noticed the white level (luminence?) on print is stronger and sharper (and today's game in Foxboro played in the snow was a perfect example of how the whites are better). DVDs in 480p also improved as some 480p settings were also different from the defaults.
> 
> 
> I know default settings aren't the final word and in cases where KenTech made his own suggestions (mostly color) I saw his settings did work better.
> 
> 
> Again, not a major change in picture quality (once more, the wife saw no difference) but the improvement is there.




Has anyone gone through the entire SM of the 960 and made an excel sheet of all the available settings (even better if the factory defaults are listed). If so, where can I obtain a copy of the SpreadSheet?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15351103
> 
> 
> Had the time and patience to go through the entire 2107P category to see if my factory service adjustments were set at the Sony defaults (of course, except for the few I had changed previously).



Joe,


Do you actually have the physical Sony service manual for the DA-4 chassis? Or are you working from a posting of excerpts that Ken Tech and others posted (either in PDF or XLS form)? I question the values you quote below for the "factory defaults".


I purchased an actual physical DA-4 manual (9-965-965-05) from Sony when I bought my XBR960. It covers the members of the chassis family: 30XS955, 34XBR960, and 34XS955. Sony provided specific unique insert charts for "factory defaults" for each model separately.


I've re-checked the values shown on the particular insert (labeled "KD-34XBR960 SERVICE DATA ONLY") which I used to produce my previously posted XLS of my own XBR960's settings. And I have to say, the defaults which I show in my XLS do match what is printed in the actual Sony service manual insert pages for the set.


I have various assorted PDF's and XLS's posted by others on the "service tweaks" thread from Ken Tech, from years ago, and I have to say that I believe none of them actually were specifically for the 34XBR960 and/or they were incomplete in some way that was problematic. For example, I have PDF's of what looks like the same "insert pages" for what I believe was the HS420 (which of course is not in the same chassis family as the XBR960) and the values shown as "factory defaults" are quite different than those for the XBR960.


In fact, while my own XLS started by being cloned from one of these other earlier posted charts, I then modified it extensively to reflect ALL items shown on my XBR960's service menu, as well as showing default/actual for ALL items and for ALL inputs and for ALL resolutions. I wanted my XLS to be complete, and I never did find others that were... although they were clearly quite helpful.


I'd be cautious here, if you're not relying on an actual physical Sony service manual for the XBR960 in your hands to determine what "factory defaults" are.


And of course we both know that even brand new sets arrived "tweaked by the factory" so that many numbers never were those "factory defaults" anyway. Hence why I showed both numbers in my own XLS, although I did lose the ability to now tell the difference between my own "tweaked value" vs. what might have been "factory tweaked". All I can now see is that my value is other than the "factory default" as printed in the physical DA-4 service manual insert for the XBR960 which I own.




> Quote:
> About two-thirds under 2107P-1 were not and neither were some others for the rest of the category.



My "factory default" values don't match yours. Again, I'd be cautious here.


I assume you have "Pro" mode set, but do you have some other "bias" presets in effect? What are your color temp and color axis settings? While these might effect the "actual" values for your set, they wouldn't matter if looking for the "factory defaults"... but still.


As my XLS shows on the user menu tab, I have color temp = cool and color axis = default. Hence my "actual" settings, and possibly my choice for showing a "factory default" if values were available for a different color temp.




> Quote:
> For example, the BDOF (color temperature) was at 34 while the factory default was 45.



My 34XBR960 insert pages show two separate columns of unique values for 2170P-1 values 14-22, for the two color temps of "cool" and "warm". The default value shown is 34 for "cool" and 16 for "warm". No mention of 45. And curiously, there is no column shown for color temp of "neutral". I don't really know how to interpret that.


As my posted XLS shows (where I have "color temp = cool" set in the user menu, and thus showed 34 as the default) my own set's actual value was 34, which matches both "factory default" and what must have come as the "factory tweak" value. It's still unchanged by me or anyone, and is still 34.


I'd be cautious about working from an assumed "factory default" of 45 for BDOF for the XBR960. I don't think that's a correct number.




> Quote:
> BCUT (blue/bias cutoff) was set to 38 instead of 30.



This time there is only one column of printed values for items 7-13, but this time labeled "color temp neutral". And the "factory default" shown for BCUT is 22, not 30. My own set's current value is 31 (with color temp cool in effect), but my XLS shows the "factory default" of 22 which is the one and only value printed for BCUT (heading "color temp neutral").


I honestly don't know why there's only one column for "neutral" for items 7-13, and two columns for "cool" and "warm" for items 14-22, but that's what's shown. The values shown as "factory default" in my XLS for items 14-22 are from the "cool" column (since that's how I operate), and do match the printed values. I didn't show the "warm" value defaults. And even though I don't have color temp neutral set, I still showed the factory default and actual values for item 7-13, with my BCUT being 22/31 respectively. No mention of 30.




> Quote:
> GAMM and GAMS for 480p was at the 1080i default while 1080i was set at 480p.



The insert page for 2170P-4, item 17 GAMM, shows 4 separate rows of values corresponding to vivid, standard, movie and pro modes. The values shown in each row are unique.


NOTE: although items 7-12 were shown in the printed service manual for 2170P-4, these items were NOT in the firmware on my set. They were simply absent. So the item numbers printed for all subsequent printed items in the service manual were actually 6-less on my set than the printed value shown. My XLS reflects reality for 2170P-4 and shows the actual item numbers on my XBR960's firmware.


For example, GAMM is shown as 17 in the printed manual but was actually 11 on my set. My XLS reflects "reality" on my set, hence why GAMM appears as item 11 rather than item 17.


For each row of the GAMM item there are then unique major columns corresponding to the different inputs, RF, CV/YC, V5/V6, HDMI, MS, TWIN, ATSC. Furthermore, in the HD-capable major "input" columns there are then sub-columns for the various resolutions, 480i, 480p, 1080i and 720p. GAMM is indeed unique in "factory default" by input input and by source resolution from that input. And you can obviously tweak each value separately and have that value remembered.


However... in PRO mode EVERY FACTORY DEFAULT VALUE FOR GAMM IS 0! This was the case on my XBR960, and that's what I show in my XLS, both for default and actual.


Now you can obviously tweak GAMM and have it remembered. But all factory default GAMM values are 0 for PRO mode. There is no factory default difference in 480i, 480p, 720p or 1080i from any input.


As regards GAMS, there are only four columns printed and they correspond to settings of GAMM (which can vary from 0-3). Hence the four columns. There is no differentiation shown for GAMS by input or resolution, but rather only by GAMM value. And the factory defaults shown for GAMM/GAMMS are 0/0, 1/8, 2/8, and 3/8. Since GAMM has a factory default of simply 0 for PRO mode, I show a factory default value of 0 for GAMMS in my XLS. Again, no differentiation for GAMS by input or resolution.



Anyway, I'm just saying. I'm curious as to what source document (PDF or XLS) you got your 34XBR960 defaults from.


----------



## DSperber

Quote:

Originally Posted by *BeachComber* 
Has anyone gone through the entire SM of the 960 and made an excel sheet of all the available settings (even better if the factory defaults are listed). If so, where can I obtain a copy of the SpreadSheet?
See attached.


Note that there are two tabs: one for user menu settings and a second for service menu settings.


Remember... the "actual" values shown are for my particular set, reflecting my user menu settings as well as the "magnet job" done right after I first bought my set four years ago (to attempt to correct curvature and convergence problems, which were indeed corrected with magnets and further service menu adjustments as reflected in the XLS).


But you can certainly use it as a starting point, for reference as you tweak and adjust, and to clone into a record of YOUR set's settings.


Refer to the "notes" at the end of the service menu for further insights. In particular, I've color coded things to make it visibly obvious when there is a difference for values from one input or resolution to what I treat as the "reference standard" of 1080i from INPUT6.


H=HDMI, C=component video, i=iLink/firewire, A=ATSC tuner, S=S-video. Color coding of columns should be intuitively helpful.

 

kd-34xbr960.zip 24.2626953125k . file


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi Dsperber,


Thanks for bringing that to my attention and I very much appreciate you taking the time to clarify things for me. I now see that the spreadsheet I used was compiled by Andrew Rossmann and updated on May 31, 2004. He has a column next to "default" labeled "adjustments" so did I mistake what is listed under default as being Sony's while they were. in actuality, his own?


But I don't think it's a bad situation at all since I do prefere the picture now than before and have owned the 960 long enough to learn how to distinguish natural from un-natural and over-emphasisized. Again, the overall change in picture quality was subtle and if it was major I would then be very concerned about my judgement after reading your post above.


The majority of 2107P changes were under "1" and I count 14 of 21 different from my recorded factory pre-sets; everything under "2" matched those out of the box; 9 of 25 in "3" were changed (none of the scanning velocity modulations) and five of those were made on my own months ago while other than GAMS and GAMM none in "4" were altered except for RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB (which I also changed last year based on the consensus of earlier posts).


I keep everything in movie mode with the red emphasis off (monitor). HD is connected through HDMI.


The first time I went into the service menu was to adjust the overscan because factory technicians had it adjusted to where even the 5% safety line wasn't completely visable on all four sides. This then led me to change other settings to get the geometry properly set.


While the majority of my service settings are those of what came out of the box (and I haven't touched), some were also made on my own (geometry and those related to sharpness and edge enhancement which were easy), followed by red and green correction as suggested by members of this forum and just a few days ago those made by Andrew in the aforementioned section.

Again, I went back and forth to compare each setting before settling on which to use.


Obviously, you know the technical ins and outs so much better than I can ever hope for, however, I do like the subtle change in picture. All NFL games this afternoon and evening had a little added "punch" to them and so did local college hoops and nature shows which I think is due to better black and white levels.


I will look at your own sheet tomorrow at work (I use an MSNTV-2 browser that doesn't support ZIP) and will let you know if there are major differences in our settings. As you've said in the past, each set is unique in some ways so some sort of variation is to be expected.


Thanks again for all your help.


-Joe


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15353783
> 
> 
> I will look at your own sheet tomorrow at work (I use an MSNTV-2 browser that doesn't support ZIP)



No need to "open" it in your browser... just download it to your hard drive and unzip it there, and then open it with Excel.


If you use Firefox, right-click on that attachment link and select "save link as..." and do the SAVE to your local hard drive. Then unzip (using WinZip, WinRar, or I believe even Windows now has built-in unzip capability).


If you use IE, right-click on the attachment link and select "save target as..." and proceed as above.


It's not a huge file but the forum does not allow XLS as a valid file extension for attachments. Hence the ZIP form. Sorry for the nuisance.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/15354050
> 
> 
> No need to "open" it in your browser... just download it to your hard drive and unzip it there, and then open it with Excel.
> 
> 
> If you use Firefox, right-click on that attachment link and select "save link as..." and do the SAVE to your local hard drive. Then unzip (using WinZip, WinRar, or I believe even Windows now has built-in unzip capability).
> 
> 
> If you use IE, right-click on the attachment link and select "save target as..." and proceed as above.
> 
> 
> It's not a huge file but the forum does not allow XLS as a valid file extension for attachments. Hence the ZIP form. Sorry for the nuisance.



Dsperber,


Opened the attachment and made a quick comparion to the spreadsheet I used. Can see where my confusion was - he also had the original factory settings in parenthesis following his changes and I failed to notice this explanation at the end of the attachment.


Still, most of Andrew's settings are close to yours except of course for BDOF which you pointed out the consensus is to stay at 34 and 45 too extreme. Am I correct this is the adjustment for blue in the overall color temperature? I will switch between 34 and 45 when I get home to look for differences but note that at 45 the color test pattern (with blue filter glasses) was a near perfect evenly shade of blue and the hue could be left at zero, whereas in the past it had to be R2. Again, will see if there is any difference with the adjustment back at 34 with the blue filter spectacles.


Thanks again,

Joe


P.S. Forgot to add my color temeperature is "cool".


----------



## Joseph Dubin

FOLLOW UP TO ABOVE.


Hi Disperber,


Went back and forth between 45 and 34 for BDOF which I assume is for blue level and especially checked color tones that could be affected by too much blue. Found only one instance when at 45 there was a slight bluish bleed-through. This was for the flesh tone of an African American and might have been due to the source because those on other stations appeared natural at the higher setting.


There was only a very subtle difference in color saturation between the two settings but I actually liked it at 45 for blues, etc. for blues appeared a slight bit subdued at 34. Overall color still natural and blue-filter glasses do show even shades of blue on the test pattern.


Thanks for all your help, explanations and spreadsheet - they certainly came in useful.


Joe


----------



## mjrtoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *a_ok2me* /forum/post/15348529
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a crt next to a Kuro in a dark scene? I'd like to see which is better and has more detail.



Would be interesting to see, but they are a totally different class of display. 34" vs 50/60". If you have an option, take the Kuro...


While I agree it's probably still the best HD display ever made, 34" is not a 'home theater' size display...it's just a VERY NICE television.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15355313
> 
> 
> ....Still, most of Andrew's settings are close to yours except of course for BDOF which you pointed out the consensus is to stay at 34 and 45 too extreme. Am I correct this is the adjustment for blue in the overall color temperature? ....



I may be misunderstanding the issue but I'll offer a few comments. It is my understanding that the xDOF and xCOF parameters are the offsets for drives and cuts when the cool and warm settings are selected. This actually creates the cool and warm, non-standard (non-65K) color temps. A value of 31 equals no offset, with 31 an increase in drive/cut. The default values represent standard offsets and in general should not be used to adjust color issues. This is considered *grayscale* calibration and is perfomed by adjusting for black to white with shades of gray in between. It is generally done with a neutral color temp selected and the drives and cuts adjusted for 65K for 0-100 IRE. Grayscale adjustments generally require instruments/color analyzers to perform.


Actual *color* calibration is then performed using the color decoder parameters RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/15361591
> 
> 
> I may be misunderstanding the issue but I'll offer a few comments. It is my understanding that the xDOF and xCOF parameters are the offsets for drives and cuts when the cool and warm settings are selected. This actually creates the cool and warm, non-standard (non-65K) color temps. A value of 31 equals no offset, with 31 an increase in drive/cut. The default values represent standard offsets and in general should not be used to adjust color issues. This is considered *grayscale* calibration and is perfomed by adjusting for black to white with shades of gray in between. It is generally done with a neutral color temp selected and the drives and cuts adjusted for 65K for 0-100 IRE. Grayscale adjustments generally require instruments/color analyzers to perform.
> 
> 
> Actual *color* calibration is then performed using the color decoder parameters RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB.



So it seems at 45 the setting for the cool temperature (which I use) slightly increased in blue emphasis. Though subtle, I really like the way the picture looks. Fortunately the color decoders were adjusted months ago based on everybody's consensus. Those I would never touch.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15362032
> 
> 
> ...... Fortunately the color decoders were adjusted months ago based on *everybody's* consensus. Those I would never touch.


*Everybody* on AVSForum or *everybody* that stood in front of *your* set, viewing color calibration slides through color filters?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/15363659
> 
> *Everybody* on AVSForum or *everybody* that stood in front of *your* set, viewing color calibration slides through color filters?



Change that to a CONSENSUS of posts on the subject by those who stood in front of THEIR sets.


----------



## hitman25

Beachcomber if you want to be helpful cool...your post didn't help anyone..your just being a wiseguy!! I think we all know my set is old, may be someone knows something helpful maybe not...i have learned a lot of useful things by asking! Never hurts to ask!


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/15363659
> 
> *Everybody* on AVSForum or *everybody* that stood in front of *your* set, viewing color calibration slides through color filters?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15364371
> 
> 
> Change that to a CONSENSUS of posts on the subject by those who stood in front of THEIR sets.



Understood.







But, you do understand that every set is different and the calibration of analog related parameters such as grayscale, geometry, convergence and color decoding are different from set to set? BTW, the color decoder is fairly easy to check if you have color bars. Each of the three guns can be viewed by themselves for adjustment. No color filters required.










My concern is that you appear to be using the blue, cool, drive offset as a color decoder correction. Drives and Cuts are used for grayscale calibration and I believe drives effect low IRE levels and cuts affect the higher IRE levels.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/15367043
> 
> 
> Understood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, you do understand that every set is different and the calibration of analog related parameters such as grayscale, geometry, convergence and color decoding are different from set to set? BTW, the color decoder is fairly easy to check if you have color bars. Each of the three guns can be viewed by themselves for adjustment. No color filters required.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My concern is that you appear to be using the blue, cool, drive offset as a color decoder correction. Drives and Cuts are used for grayscale calibration and I believe drives effect low IRE levels and cuts affect the higher IRE levels.



Thanks for your concerns - yes, every set is unique to itself

and the only adjustments I made on my own were those that I either understood immediately or learned through observation with the use of test patterns and regular HD programming. I first started out with overscan and geometry and as my confidence grew continued with sharpness, edge enhancement, etc.


I recently referred to that aforementioned spreadsheet only to see if my settings matched the factory defaults. As mentioned to Disperber, I mistook one's suggested adjustments for factory defaults so just had to start the process all over again.


I did not experiment with those items so the blue cool drive offset was not used as a basis of color correction on my part. An adjustment of 45 for the offset appeared in place of the default 34 and the higher setting was just something I seem to prefer over the factory pre-set. Like most of the other items under 2107P, I just compared suggested adjustments to defaults and did no other experimentation on my own.


So again thanks to you and others for your suggestions and concerns that I did my tweaking correctly. I limited myself to items needed to correct overscan (which was way off out of the factory) and subsequent geometry and items under 2107P only so everything else has been left alone.


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/15353204
> 
> 
> See attached.
> 
> 
> Note that there are two tabs: one for user menu settings and a second for service menu settings.
> 
> 
> Remember... the "actual" values shown are for my particular set, reflecting my user menu settings as well as the "magnet job" done right after I first bought my set four years ago (to attempt to correct curvature and convergence problems, which were indeed corrected with magnets and further service menu adjustments as reflected in the XLS).
> 
> 
> But you can certainly use it as a starting point, for reference as you tweak and adjust, and to clone into a record of YOUR set's settings.
> 
> 
> Refer to the "notes" at the end of the service menu for further insights. In particular, I've color coded things to make it visibly obvious when there is a difference for values from one input or resolution to what I treat as the "reference standard" of 1080i from INPUT6.
> 
> 
> H=HDMI, C=component video, i=iLink/firewire, A=ATSC tuner, S=S-video. Color coding of columns should be intuitively helpful.



ty


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hitman25* /forum/post/15364609
> 
> 
> Beachcomber if you want to be helpful cool...your post didn't help anyone..your just being a wiseguy!! I think we all know my set is old, may be someone knows something helpful maybe not...i have learned a lot of useful things by asking! Never hurts to ask!




Interesting.


Reviewing your original post, you stated:





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hitman25* /forum/post/15312190
> 
> 
> Ok..so it did this the Friday night...worked saturday..sunday and Monday...then it won't fully come on again...and this just needs to be unplugged wait 5 minutes and plugged into the wall?? *am surprised at Sony with this problem with a $2000 TV!* I just hope it works when I get home...the estimated repair i was told is $300 smackers!! I read in the other thread a board needs to be replaced?? I hope not...



So everyone knows your TV is old (which means its not a $2000 TV) and you are surprised that a TV has a problem in 3-5 years after it is made.


So what part of someone knowing something helpful would change that in your post?


----------



## unclepauly

Anybody know where I could acquire one of the stands that match this TV? The SU-34XBR3? I would much rather have that stand than a generic walmart stand unless someone knows of a better one. Thanks for any help.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/15388823
> 
> 
> Anybody know where I could acquire one of the stands that match this TV? The SU-34XBR3? I would much rather have that stand than a generic walmart stand unless someone knows of a better one. Thanks for any help.



Crutchfeld on line has a large selection of stands and provides information on the amount of weight they can hold along with the dimensions.


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15390291
> 
> 
> Crutchfeld on line has a large selection of stands and provides information on the amount of weight they can hold along with the dimensions.



I believe he's asking about the original stand from Sony.


----------



## dr.whatshisname

Its a 720p tv. thats 1280x720


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/15388823
> 
> 
> Anybody know where I could acquire one of the stands that match this TV? The SU-34XBR3? I would much rather have that stand than a generic walmart stand unless someone knows of a better one. Thanks for any help.



Check your local craigslist, u might get lucky. Otherwise do a search on this thread for stands, lot of options from cheap to expensive.


----------



## dr.whatshisname




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *weetoots* /forum/post/3882237
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a picture of the rear panel layout?



Its got 1 hdmi, 1 rgb and 6 rca inputs I believe. Also audio coaxial out i believe.


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dr.whatshisname* /forum/post/15408456
> 
> 
> Its got 1 hdmi, 1 rgb and 6 rca inputs I believe. Also audio coaxial out i believe.



No RGB


Its 1 HDMI, 2 YPbPr and a firewire/IEEE 1394 for HD Inputs.


Inputs and Outputs

• Component Video Input (Y/PB/PR) 2 Rear

• Composite Input 1 Front/3 Rear

• HDMI 1 Rear

• S-Video Input (with detection) 1 Front/2 Rear (same input as Composite)

• Control S 1 Rear

• Audio Output 1 Rear

• Monitor Output 1 Rear


----------



## hitman25

Beachcomber...if you can't say something nice..just don't say anything.. Unless you work for sony and take that comment as a personal affront....


----------



## RalphArch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hitman25* /forum/post/15413078
> 
> 
> Beachcomber...if you can't say something nice..just don't say anything.. Unless you work for sony and take that comment as a personal affront....



???? Beachcomber was just accurately correcting a mistatement by whatshisname ???


Another one above about it being a 720p display went uncorrected. (it is like other Sony SFP direct view TVs with around 1400 horizontal resolution; definitely not 1280x720; but it will accept that resolution as an input, along with 1920x1080i; and display the result in 1080i)


I think this whole Direct view forum is going downhill; most posts are now about bargain hunting.


AVS should just kill the whole forum.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RalphArch* /forum/post/15415477
> 
> 
> I think this whole Direct view forum is going downhill; most posts are now about bargain hunting.
> 
> 
> AVS should just kill the whole forum.



No, don't kill it - many rely on this forum regarding service menu adjustments, etc. and it's the only place where we can exchange opinions and information.


----------



## Zzizzy

I have been reading the posts in this forum for the last two days and I hope this is the right thread. I've had the 34XBR960 since it was new and have been very pleased. I've been watching SD DVDs with a Sony S550D (which is a standard non-progressive player) connected via component directly to the 960. The performance and quality of that setup has been excellent.


I just made the step up to Blu-ray with Sony's S350 and the results have been somewhat disappointing. I'd like your opinions and if anyone thinks there is something wrong.


I get OTA HD on a couple channels and so I've seen what the 960 is capable of with broadcast HD. The Olympics were great and that made me want to step up to Blu-ray. The quality of my OTA is comparable to what I've seen in the stores (clarity, depth of color, crispness, and all the other HD aspects). I understand the difference between an HD LCD picture and an HD CRT picture and I'm not expecting the 960 to look like an LCD. What I was expecting is that Blu-ray would look fairly similar, if not better, than OTA HD on the 960. (True or not?)


I used as a benchmark Pirates of the Caribbean 1 and Wall*E (I figured a good action flick and one of the latest Pixar productions). I have the SD DVD and the Blu-ray of each film. The DVD is still hooked up with component video and the Blu-ray is connected via HDMI (1080i). I've tried to set all the picture settings (picture, brightness, etc.) as similar as possible for each input (to produce the same picture, not that the settings were the same). I compared still frames and moving sequences.


What I'm seeing from the Blu-ray is almost identical to my SD DVD. I see only very slight improvements in quality on the Blu-ray and only if you really look for it. What I'm seeing on the screen is definitely not up to the quality of OTA HD. This is not the striking change that I thought I would see out of Blu-ray.


I changed the Blu-ray to component video. Same result. I tried forcing the player to output only 720p or 480p (the 960 display confirms the signal change). No real change in quality. Essentially, no change I've made has shown any significant improvement over my SD DVD.


I don't think I have a bad player, but I guess strange things have happened. Still, if the 960 is reporting 1080i, then that has to be an HD signal, right?


So, either I have gross over-expectations of Blu-ray or there is a problem somewhere. I've seen other posts here and most seem to agree that Blu-ray works well on the 960 and that it is an improvement over DVD. I didn't think my SD DVD was that exceptional, but maybe it was. But when I watch OTA HD or Blu-ray on an LCD there is a significant and noticeable improvement over a SD picture (it's HD after all). I'm not seeing that same quality with the S350 on my 960.


I'd love to hear what you think. I really want this to work, but if what I have is normal, I'm not sure it's worth the upgrade.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zzizzy* /forum/post/15418805
> 
> 
> I really want this to work, but if what I have is normal, I’m not sure it’s worth the upgrade.



Don't give up the fight. I'm 100% sure you are absolutely correct in your expectations of OTA-like 1080i HD picture quality from your new Blu-Ray player of Blu-Ray discs when connecting to the 960 via HDMI.


Now personally, I don't own a Blu-Ray player so I can't speak from firsthand experience.


But I do believe I understand the "mechanics" involved enough to agree with you. And if the 960 displays "1080i" I would think the player is putting out the 1080i content from the disc, not upconverting some 480p version of the movie to 1080i (which would look good, but not really like HD). Seems impossible, though you even state you tried changing the player to put out 720p and 480p, and still saw no change which DOES suggest you're not actually playing the HD content on the Blu-Ray disc but somehow picking up conventional 480p content and just upconverting if necessary out the HDMI.


I'm not even sure that's true, or possible. But what else could explain your obvservation that things look the same at 480p, 720p and 1080i? Surely this is a player setting issue.


Surely others will help you get this straightened out. A Blu-Ray setup should look dramatically superior to your SD DVD.


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hitman25* /forum/post/15413078
> 
> 
> Beachcomber...if you can't say something nice..just don't say anything.. Unless you work for sony and take that comment as a personal affront....



Right back at ya....


Next you'll want warranty work on a 1958 Corvette because it cost $4k at the time. rolleyes:


The only thing I cannot believe is people think that things will be 100% dependable for years past their warranty period. If that were the case, they would be warranted for that length of time.


----------



## S. Hiller

Blu-Ray is less compressed and should offer a substantially superior picture to OTA. And that has been my experience.


(This on a big DLP screen. However, on my 22.5" FW900 the difference between DVD and HD was striking and you should be seeing a difference as well...)


----------



## Joseph Dubin

I note you visually adjusted the picture so each input would appear matching the other and that might be the problem. Even though the color levels, etc. might appear the same, what is required for 1080i would not be sufficient for 480p. HD requires different levels of color, black, contrast, etc, compared to 480p and its extremely difficult to properly set these adjustments by relying on observation which more often fools people than helps them. Precise adjustments are needed for brightness, picture, etc. and any one of them being off just a tad will make a huge difference in both standard and HD quality.


To obtain proper settings for each component one should use test patterns found on set-up DVDs. Please note that what works for 1080i will be different than that for 480p. I have those specifically for 1080i stored on my DVR and for 480p use a THX optomizer found on standard DVDs (using blue filter glasses with each -if the discs don't include blue-filter glasses, they are inexpensive and can be purchased on line through www.thx.com ).


Am not an owner of a bluray set but am sure if you have guidelines to properly adjust the picture, brightness, color, hue and sharpness you will probably be even happier with the performance of your 960on all levels.


Since you've used the same method of adjustment on both the 960 and a LCD you wonder why there is more of a difference between standard DVD and bluray on the flat screen compared to the 960? It's because the 960's super fine pitch CRT and upscaling does a better job of bringing out the best in 480p than most any other set whether it be LCD, Plasma or DLP.


Hope these suggestions help and please let us know it they did.


----------



## unclepauly

Joseph is right. The 960 does SD infinitely better than anything out there I've seen. DVD's almost look HD to me. I've got a blu-ray connected and just watched a couple blu-ray movies and there's definite improvement. Mainly in detail and black level/ color fidelity and it looks better than any OTA I've seen.


Maybe you're expecting the same *temporal resolution* that the olympics gave? Blu-ray movies mostly run at 24 fps and the olympics were 60 fps I think. There are some concert blu-rays that run at 60 fps if you could take a look at one of those maybe that's what you were looking for.


My only suggestion would be to get your TV calibrated(overscan reduction, geometry, convergence plus the usual stuff) or maybe run through your blu-ray settings a couple more times. I don't know, there's a noticeable difference on my set and I own a Sony SXRD 60A3000 for comparison.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/15420473
> 
> 
> The only thing I cannot believe is people think that things will be 100% dependable for years past their warranty period. If that were the case, they would be warranted for that length of time.



Hi Beach,


Have to disagree with you on this. Most stores and manufactuers make their money pushing extended warranties for equipment and appliances that are indeed dependable and on the most part will never require repair. They would lose money by selling extended warranties for products that were apt to break, the cost of repair far exceeding the price of the agreement.


It's also not economical for the consumer to renew their extended warranties year after year. If something does break down after five or six years, the combined cost of all the renewals would far exceed the cost of the actual repair job itself. It is only at this point that companies and stores would profit if they had to honor the warranty the sold.


Not to say a product can't break down after just a few years, however, that is more the exception than the rule except when it comes to cheap equipment made by no-name brands.


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zzizzy* /forum/post/15418805
> 
> 
> 
> So, either I have gross over-expectations of Blu-ray or there is a problem somewhere.



It could also be your choice of benchmarks. While I have not seen your two choices on Blu Ray myself, I have done the upconvert SD/Blu Ray comparisons in the past with mixed results. Sometimes, like yourself, I saw virtually no difference between the two. And what small differences I did see, really took some effort. Other times there was a noticeable improvement but not what I would call earth shattering. But do yourself a favor and borrow or rent Lost Season 3 or 4 on Blu Ray, before you give up on the S350 and Blu Ray altogether, even if you aren't a fan of the show. They really are spectacular transfers and are clearly better than even the original OTA HD broadcasts. You will be able to tell after the first 5 minutes of watching a disc whether it is up to snuff with OTA HD. I think you will be pleasantly surprised with the results. Good Luck.


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15420706
> 
> 
> Hi Beach,
> 
> 
> Have to disagree with you on this. Most stores and manufactuers make their money pushing extended warranties for equipment and appliances that are indeed dependable and on the most part will never require repair. They would lose money by selling extended warranties for products that were apt to break, the cost of repair far exceeding the price of the agreement.
> 
> 
> It's also not economical for the consumer to renew their extended warranties year after year. If something does break down after five or six years, the combined cost of all the renewals would far exceed the cost of the actual repair job itself. It is only at this point that companies and stores would profit if they had to honor the warranty the sold.
> 
> 
> Not to say a product can't break down after just a few years, however, that is more the exception than the rule except when it comes to cheap equipment made by no-name brands.




I'll state it again - I have purchased extended warranties on EVERY Sony HDTV I have ever owned - and always made BIG money from it. Already over $5,000 of repairs have gone into the 960 (3 tubes and assorted boards).


If you want a 5 year warranty and the sets were truly designed for 5 years, Sony would give it to you. If they are not going to break, there is no reason Sony WOULD NOT give you a 5 year warranty.


Margins have been cut razor thin. We are not talking hospital/government grade electronics - but consumer electronic parts with very low stability.


A Sony 40+ Inch SDTV RPTV cost around $3k 20 years ago (roughly $12k in todays dollars). Today you can find a 40+ inch HDTV for less than $1k.


The 20 year old one still works. The newer ones.....










Sony isnt what Sony was from the 60s-80s.


They also told us floppy disks had a 10 year life at one point. Said CD's were 50+ years. I can't tell you how many don't work less than a few years down the road.


Sorry, things don't last any longer. We are in a disposable society.


If you want a long warranty, you will have to pay for it - and as I stated, I will not have a unit without one.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/15425819
> 
> 
> I'll state it again - I have purchased extended warranties on EVERY Sony HDTV I have ever owned - and always made BIG money from it. Already over $5,000 of repairs have gone into the 960 (3 tubes and assorted boards).
> 
> 
> If you want a 5 year warranty and the sets were truly designed for 5 years, Sony would give it to you. If they are not going to break, there is no reason Sony WOULD NOT give you a 5 year warranty.
> 
> 
> Margins have been cut razor thin. We are not talking hospital/government grade electronics - but consumer electronic parts with very low stability.
> 
> 
> A Sony 40+ Inch SDTV RPTV cost around $3k 20 years ago (roughly $12k in todays dollars). Today you can find a 40+ inch HDTV for less than $1k.
> 
> 
> The 20 year old one still works. The newer ones.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sony isnt what Sony was from the 60s-80s.
> 
> 
> They also told us floppy disks had a 10 year life at one point. Said CD's were 50+ years. I can't tell you how many don't work less than a few years down the road.
> 
> 
> Sorry, things don't last any longer. We are in a disposable society.
> 
> 
> If you want a long warranty, you will have to pay for it - and as I stated, I will not have a unit without one.



Hi Beach,


Sorry so many repairs were needed on your 960 (think I recall them from past posts) and in this case, the extended warranty was well justified. But there's an interesting on-line discussion in the HDTV Magazine Forum and most agree extended warranties are more a way for stores to increase their profit margins and are not necessary.


And if we found products from a particular manufacturer were constantly in need of repair we would simply stop doing business with them, including Sony


----------



## dr.whatshisname




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/15420688
> 
> 
> Joseph is right. The 960 does SD infinitely better than anything out there I've seen. DVD's almost look HD to me. I've got a blu-ray connected and just watched a couple blu-ray movies and there's definite improvement. Mainly in detail and black level/ color fidelity and it looks better than any OTA I've seen.
> 
> 
> Maybe you're expecting the same *temporal resolution* that the olympics gave? Blu-ray movies mostly run at 24 fps and the olympics were 60 fps I think. There are some concert blu-rays that run at 60 fps if you could take a look at one of those maybe that's what you were looking for.
> 
> 
> My only suggestion would be to get your TV calibrated(overscan reduction, geometry, convergence plus the usual stuff) or maybe run through your blu-ray settings a couple more times. I don't know, there's a noticeable difference on my set and I own a Sony SXRD 60A3000 for comparison.



many people buy CRT's because of good standard definiton programming picture.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Last week the automatic degauser didn't work and there were blue blotches in the lower corner that were eliminated after unplugging the set for about five minutes. Since that time, however, I thought the picture quality was not as good as I was used to. At first, I thought it was something with the compressed cable signals (480p still seemed OK) but today I remembered that degaussing problem so I decided to unplug it for at least 30 minutes. After plugging it back in, it seemed the more vibrant picture I was used to had returned.


Is it possible I didn't keep the 960 unplugged long enough that first time to allow the degauser and other circuitry to kick back fully?


----------



## jdre

Yes. Degauss should reset in about 10-15 minutes after turning it on. Then power off/on TV it should hum/click.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/15429230
> 
> 
> Yes. Degauss should reset in about 10-15 minutes after turning it on. Then power off/on TV it should hum/click.













Thanks, for a while I thought I was going through some self psycho-analysis with the picture quality suddenly changing.


----------



## SwiftSweeper




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15427197
> 
> 
> Hi Beach,
> 
> 
> Sorry so many repairs were needed on your 960 (think I recall them from past posts) and in this case, the extended warranty was well justified. But there's an interesting on-line discussion in the HDTV Magazine Forum and most agree extended warranties are more a way for stores to increase their profit margins and are not necessary.
> 
> 
> And if we found products from a particular manufacturer were constantly in need of repair we would simply stop doing business with them, including Sony



Agreed, companies would not sell extended warranties if they were not profitable to them. The only reason that I would buy extended warranty is for my the peace of mind. There are sometimes exceptions to the rule like first first xbox 360 models though.


Considering CRT technology used in the set and all the features it has, I would not be surprised if failure rate on xbr 960 is a little higher than some other Sony crts like xbr800, hs420, or xbr970 though. However, I think that many "reliability" issues came from people who had unreasonable expectations about the set to begin with, which is understandable considering the set's initial price.


----------



## theroys88




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zzizzy* /forum/post/15418805
> 
> 
> I have been reading the posts in this forum for the last two days and I hope this is the right thread. I've had the 34XBR960 since it was new and have been very pleased. I've been watching SD DVDs with a Sony S550D (which is a standard non-progressive player) connected via component directly to the 960. The performance and quality of that setup has been excellent.
> 
> 
> I just made the step up to Blu-ray with Sony's S350 and the results have been somewhat disappointing. I'd like your opinions and if anyone thinks there is something wrong.
> 
> 
> I get OTA HD on a couple channels and so I've seen what the 960 is capable of with broadcast HD. The Olympics were great and that made me want to step up to Blu-ray. The quality of my OTA is comparable to what I've seen in the stores (clarity, depth of color, crispness, and all the other HD aspects). I understand the difference between an HD LCD picture and an HD CRT picture and I'm not expecting the 960 to look like an LCD. What I was expecting is that Blu-ray would look fairly similar, if not better, than OTA HD on the 960. (True or not?)
> 
> 
> I used as a benchmark Pirates of the Caribbean 1 and Wall*E (I figured a good action flick and one of the latest Pixar productions). I have the SD DVD and the Blu-ray of each film. The DVD is still hooked up with component video and the Blu-ray is connected via HDMI (1080i). I've tried to set all the picture settings (picture, brightness, etc.) as similar as possible for each input (to produce the same picture, not that the settings were the same). I compared still frames and moving sequences.
> 
> 
> What I'm seeing from the Blu-ray is almost identical to my SD DVD. I see only very slight improvements in quality on the Blu-ray and only if you really look for it. What I'm seeing on the screen is definitely not up to the quality of OTA HD. This is not the striking change that I thought I would see out of Blu-ray.
> 
> 
> I changed the Blu-ray to component video. Same result. I tried forcing the player to output only 720p or 480p (the 960 display confirms the signal change). No real change in quality. Essentially, no change I've made has shown any significant improvement over my SD DVD.
> 
> 
> I don't think I have a bad player, but I guess strange things have happened. Still, if the 960 is reporting 1080i, then that has to be an HD signal, right?
> 
> 
> So, either I have gross over-expectations of Blu-ray or there is a problem somewhere. I've seen other posts here and most seem to agree that Blu-ray works well on the 960 and that it is an improvement over DVD. I didn't think my SD DVD was that exceptional, but maybe it was. But when I watch OTA HD or Blu-ray on an LCD there is a significant and noticeable improvement over a SD picture (it's HD after all). I'm not seeing that same quality with the S350 on my 960.
> 
> 
> I'd love to hear what you think. I really want this to work, but if what I have is normal, I'm not sure it's worth the upgrade.



You are not going to see a big difference on a 34" screen. I had a XS955 and saw a improvement but not that much. Now on my 52" Samsung 1080p LCD the difference between a dvd and Blu-Ray is blaringly obvious.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *theroys88* /forum/post/15435239
> 
> 
> You are not going to see a big difference on a 34" screen. I had a XS955 and saw a improvement but not that much. Now on my 52" Samsung 1080p LCD the difference between a dvd and Blu-Ray is blaringly obvious.



Even though I'm not a bluray owner and never hooked one up to the 960, I tend to agree that for owners of our set there will be a difference but not a dramatic jaw breaking difference. For when I saw a sony demonstration with side by side comparisions my first reaction wasn't how much better the bluray picture looked but rather how worse the DVD example appeared in comparision to those I see at home. My guess is an interlaced output without any upscaling was selected in order to show the most dramatic difference between the two.


BTW - the demo was on a 46 inch Sony LCD.


----------



## SwiftSweeper

DVDs look very good on xbr 960 no doubt. I can not comment on blu-ray with complete certainty, but HD channels on xbr 960 look a lot better than DVDs. I would assume that blu-rays will at least mach the best quality of hd channels. Since there is less compression on blu-rays than on HD channels, I would no be surprised that blu-ray looks even better than HD programming.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SwiftSweeper* /forum/post/15436186
> 
> 
> DVDs look very good on xbr 960 no doubt. I can not comment on blu-ray with complete certainty, but HD channels on xbr 960 look a lot better than DVDs. I would assume that blu-rays will at least mach the best quality of hd channels. Since there is less compression on blu-rays than on HD channels, I would no be surprised that blu-ray looks even better than HD programming.



Agree. Fresh prints look gorgeous in HD, however, I actually have films that look better on DVD compared to being aired on HBO or Starz. Could be due to the source, compression or pictures cropped and stretched at 16x9 rather than their theatrical aspect ratios.


----------



## unclepauly

I think the slightly marginal difference in quality between blu-ray and dvd(to some people, not me) really is because the 960 does DVD so well. LCD's on the other hand make DVD look like digital refuse. LCD's make pretty much anything that isn't native resolution look bad.


Now what I really don't get is how people with 1080P LCD's don't see a big difference between DVD and Blu-Ray? It's mind boggling


----------



## theroys88




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/15436697
> 
> 
> I think the slightly marginal difference in quality between blu-ray and dvd(to some people, not me) really is because the 960 does DVD so well. LCD's on the other hand make DVD look like digital refuse. LCD's make pretty much anything that isn't native resolution look bad.
> 
> 
> Now what I really don't get is how people with 1080P LCD's don't see a big difference between DVD and Blu-Ray? It's mind boggling



Now if I could have the deep blacks of a 960 and the resolution of my Samsung 52" 1080p set It would be the mother of all HDTVs.


----------



## unclepauly

I hear the new samsung LED LCD's come pretty close but there's still a few kinks to work out(black crush). As always the Kuro is a sure bet.


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15427197
> 
> 
> Hi Beach,
> 
> 
> Sorry so many repairs were needed on your 960 (think I recall them from past posts) and in this case, the extended warranty was well justified. But there's an interesting on-line discussion in the HDTV Magazine Forum and most agree extended warranties are more a way for stores to increase their profit margins and are not necessary.
> 
> 
> And if we found products from a particular manufacturer were constantly in need of repair we would simply stop doing business with them, including Sony



The bottom line is most people dont realize their TVs have a problem and thus do not make the call.


When HDTV owners can have their TV connected up to ths SD outputs of cable boxes and the like (or not even have an HD Source), its no surprise to me that people do not see more issues.


Most people do not realize that their apeture grill is failing on their 34XBR960 (or 910). As you know, most never had the convergence right in the first place (and there were many bad tubes that could not be brought in properly in the first place). So no, it does not surprise me that most extended warranties make money for the Company and not the Consumer.


Again, for me (and the discerning eye) especially with as cheap as these things as made now, I will not own a HDTV without a 5 year warranty and thus far I am roughly $10k ahead of the game just on Sony products alone. There are plenty of issues with Sonys, both the CRTs and the SXRD (which is why none are made any longer), yet people do not seem to have stopped buying Sony as you state.


Sony today is not what Sony was when it built its name. I have watched as the first Sony Color TV lasted 15 years for my parents, the same size CRT that replaced that lasted ONLY 10 years, that replacement then lasted only 5. See the pattern?


If you get 5 years out of a TV today, you are doing very good. They are not made to last that long in many cases.


----------



## S. Hiller

Extended warranty was a necessity on the SXRD. (But the tech was worth the hassle...)


As to the earlier CRTs lasting forever, it might be more useful to see how long the first ones lasted...(In any case, it certainly seems like anything bought today and for a while to come, will face rapid obsolescence...)


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zzizzy* /forum/post/15418805
> 
> 
> I have been reading the posts in this forum for the last two days and I hope this is the right thread. I've had the 34XBR960 since it was new and have been very pleased. I've been watching SD DVDs with a Sony S550D (which is a standard non-progressive player) connected via component directly to the 960. The performance and quality of that setup has been excellent.
> 
> 
> I just made the step up to Blu-ray with Sony's S350 and the results have been somewhat disappointing. I'd like your opinions and if anyone thinks there is something wrong.
> 
> 
> I get OTA HD on a couple channels and so I've seen what the 960 is capable of with broadcast HD. The Olympics were great and that made me want to step up to Blu-ray. The quality of my OTA is comparable to what I've seen in the stores (clarity, depth of color, crispness, and all the other HD aspects). I understand the difference between an HD LCD picture and an HD CRT picture and I'm not expecting the 960 to look like an LCD. What I was expecting is that Blu-ray would look fairly similar, if not better, than OTA HD on the 960. (True or not?)
> 
> 
> I used as a benchmark Pirates of the Caribbean 1 and Wall*E (I figured a good action flick and one of the latest Pixar productions). I have the SD DVD and the Blu-ray of each film. The DVD is still hooked up with component video and the Blu-ray is connected via HDMI (1080i). I've tried to set all the picture settings (picture, brightness, etc.) as similar as possible for each input (to produce the same picture, not that the settings were the same). I compared still frames and moving sequences.
> 
> 
> What I'm seeing from the Blu-ray is almost identical to my SD DVD. I see only very slight improvements in quality on the Blu-ray and only if you really look for it. What I'm seeing on the screen is definitely not up to the quality of OTA HD. This is not the striking change that I thought I would see out of Blu-ray.
> 
> 
> I changed the Blu-ray to component video. Same result. I tried forcing the player to output only 720p or 480p (the 960 display confirms the signal change). No real change in quality. Essentially, no change I've made has shown any significant improvement over my SD DVD.
> 
> 
> I don't think I have a bad player, but I guess strange things have happened. Still, if the 960 is reporting 1080i, then that has to be an HD signal, right?
> 
> 
> So, either I have gross over-expectations of Blu-ray or there is a problem somewhere. I've seen other posts here and most seem to agree that Blu-ray works well on the 960 and that it is an improvement over DVD. I didn't think my SD DVD was that exceptional, but maybe it was. But when I watch OTA HD or Blu-ray on an LCD there is a significant and noticeable improvement over a SD picture (it's HD after all). I'm not seeing that same quality with the S350 on my 960.
> 
> 
> I'd love to hear what you think. I really want this to work, but if what I have is normal, I'm not sure it's worth the upgrade.



You have to hook the blu-ray player up via component to see a significant difference. HDMI was not implemented properly on these sets and results in a softening of the image. Component video is a lot sharper, but you need to get some high quality cables that shield out noise which can cause ringing around the edges of things. I recommend buying a pair at bluejeanscable.com


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/15443585
> 
> 
> You have to hook the blu-ray player up via component to see a significant difference. HDMI was not implemented properly on these sets and results in a softening of the image. Component video is a lot sharper, but you need to get some high quality cables that shield out noise which can cause ringing around the edges of things. I recommend buying a pair at bluejeanscable.com



Found the opposite regarding my HD DVR. After adjusting the settings via HD test patterns I played back a HD broadcast recorded on the DVR to compare the two. On component the color was less vibrant and the sharpness way too soft compared to HDMI. No noise or shadows around the edges, just a very dull picture.


I can't believe reviewers wouldn't have picked up an HDMI problem or have designated the 960 as a flagship HD monitor if they found the picture too soft, however, if it did exist, could the HDMI problem have been resolved on later produced sets?


Also, by hooking up bluray via component, doesn't that eliminate the player's ability to upconvert 480i discs?


----------



## unclepauly

That reminds me, I had my PS3 hooked up to this set the other day via component cables and the TV was reporting 1080i for DVD's. W T F


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15443948
> 
> 
> Found the opposite regarding my HD DVR. After adjusting the settings via HD test patterns I played back a HD broadcast recorded on the DVR to compare the two. On component the color was less vibrant and the sharpness way too soft compared to HDMI. No noise or shadows around the edges, just a very dull picture.
> 
> 
> I can't believe reviewers wouldn't have picked up an HDMI problem or have designated the 960 as a flagship HD monitor if they found the picture too soft, however, if it did exist, could the HDMI problem have been resolved on later produced sets?
> 
> 
> Also, by hooking up bluray via component, doesn't that eliminate the player's ability to upconvert 480i discs?



Most of the ISF techs recommended in 2004 to connect these sets up via Component and not HDMI/DVI.


Now, having said that, that could have been an issue with the old STBs and their HDMI/DVI outputs which were first generation units as well - and their component could have looked better.


Regardless, I know that a 960 connected up from a SA8300HD via HDMI and a CableCard, the CableCard removes another layer of "fog" from the picture.


I see the same effect when using the IEEE1394 port on the 960 as I do when I use the cablecard.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/15445014
> 
> 
> Most of the ISF techs recommended in 2004 to connect these sets up via Component and not HDMI/DVI.
> 
> 
> Now, having said that, that could have been an issue with the old STBs and their HDMI/DVI outputs which were first generation units as well - and their component could have looked better.



Might be. My 960 was manufactured in May, 2005, (second generation?).


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15445065
> 
> 
> Might be. My 960 was manufactured in May, 2005, (second generation?).




Same HDMI board/circuit is in all the 960s. I meant the STBs HDMI outputs.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15443948
> 
> 
> Found the opposite regarding my HD DVR. After adjusting the settings via HD test patterns I played back a HD broadcast recorded on the DVR to compare the two. On component the color was less vibrant and the sharpness way too soft compared to HDMI. No noise or shadows around the edges, just a very dull picture.
> 
> 
> I can't believe reviewers wouldn't have picked up an HDMI problem or have designated the 960 as a flagship HD monitor if they found the picture too soft, however, if it did exist, could the HDMI problem have been resolved on later produced sets?



Well, I've found a consistent level of increased clarity via component compared to HDMI from at least 5 different sources. Now I'm making all my comparisons in "Pro" mode with the sharpness at minimum and velocity scan set to "off."


Chad Billheimer, one of this communities highest regarded ISF calibrators, said he has verified with test patters that component video is sharper on these sets.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15443948
> 
> 
> Also, by hooking up bluray via component, doesn't that eliminate the player's ability to upconvert 480i discs?



Yes it does.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15445065
> 
> 
> Might be. My 960 was manufactured in May, 2005, (second generation?).



Mine was manufactured in June of 2005.


----------



## S. Hiller




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/15449600
> 
> 
> Well, I've found a consistent level of increased clarity via component compared to HDMI from at least 5 different sources. Now I'm making all my comparisons in "Pro" mode with the sharpness at minimum and velocity scan set to "off."
> 
> 
> Chad Billheimer, one of this communities highest regarded ISF calibrators, said he has verified with test patters that component video is sharper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes it does.



FWIW, I think someone in this thread mentioned a while back that a setting that softens the HDMI signal needs to be disabled in the Service menu...


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *S. Hiller* /forum/post/15449637
> 
> 
> FWIW, I think someone in this thread mentioned a while back that a setting that softens the HDMI signal needs to be disabled in the Service menu...



I've done that. Still the same result.


----------



## DJF(NJ)

I have to agree with RWetmore-(Whats up man..I'm finally getting around to taking off the anti-glare filter! LOL).

I have an early unit(build date 6/2004) and stopped using HDMI a long time ago. While the colors look the same, I do notice a softer picture with the HDMI. I currently have video 6 hooked to a Toshiba XA2 and I share video 5 with a PS3 and Xbox 360. My TV was last calibrated by ChadB a little over 2 years ago. He's coming by again soon and I will ask him to compare the results.


On a side note, I was watching 'The Dark Knight' on Blueray last night. The IMAX scenes looked truly incredible!!! It was like the experience of watching HD for the very first time again! IMHO, it came extremely close to the image on the 60" 2nd gen, Pioneer elite signature series Kuro monitor that I was watching over and over again in Best Buy just the other day. Made me feel very proud and want to hold on to this TV a bit longer, despite the way prices are dropping out there.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/15449700
> 
> 
> I've done that. Still the same result.



What is the item number in the service menu to disable the softening for HDMI?


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15450108
> 
> 
> What is the item number in the service menu to disable the softening for HDMI?



I forget. You might want to search or ask someone in the Sony Service Codes thread.


I'm not doubting what you are seeing. My guess is that the component out of your HD-DVR box is either defective or just very poor quality.


I've compared component video to HDMI with the following components:


Scientific Atlanta Cable Box

Toshiba HD-A1

Toshiba HD-A2

Panasonic DMP-BD10

Sony BDP-S301

Sony BDP-S1


Every one of these is considerably sharper with component.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DJF(NJ)* /forum/post/15449712
> 
> 
> I have to agree with RWetmore-(Whats up man..I'm finally getting around to taking off the anti-glare filter! LOL).



Hey. Have you taken it off yet?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DJF(NJ)* /forum/post/15449712
> 
> 
> I have an early unit(build date 6/2004) and stopped using HDMI a long time ago. While the colors look the same, I do notice a softer picture with the HDMI. I currently have video 6 hooked to a Toshiba XA2 and I share video 5 with a PS3 and Xbox 360. My TV was last calibrated by ChadB a little over 2 years ago. He's coming by again soon and I will ask him to compare the results.



When is Chad coming? I might be interested in a grey scale touch up.


----------



## Jason F

I've got a 960 that I (and thankfully the wife too!) love, but my problem is that my receiver is literally ancient- it's circa 1991 or so, so no digital anything, just a few RCA connections. I got it when I was in high school and it was what I needed to listen to the radio and to CDs so it was fine.... It's also hooked up to an old (but working just fine) 3.1 speaker set that works, but well obviously no surround, etc....


But now I've got this great hi-def tv set, a PS3 for Blu-Rays and games, and an HD DVR from Dish and I'd like to use something other than the TV's speakers for audio. (My non upscaling DVD player is the only thing running through the receiver and is hooked up via component to the tv).


So I'm contemplating replacing my receiver with something like the Sony HTCT100- but my big problem is the entertainment center and a CRT tv set. (It sure seems like these sound bars are designed to work perfectly with an LCD/plasma screen- but otherwise they seem to be an odd fit). I certainly can't put the soundbar under the tv without some sort of new entertainment center built specifically for that; nor can I easily just place it on top of the set as I'm afraid it would fall off, etc....


So is anyone out there using a 960 (or other 34" sized HD CRT set) and a soundbar system of some sort? And if so- what sort of cabinet/media center do you have it in or how is it setup. (or is it hooked up/arranged in some sort of other method or enclosure? Custom bracket to mount/attach it to the top of the tv??)


My TV sits in the corner of the room (literally the entertainment center is in the corner on a 45degree angle)- so I've got a bit of room to work with, but I'm also a bit constricted by the fireplace on the left side of the tv.... but I'm open to suggestions on what to do with the idea of adding a soundbar and making it still be visually appealing to the setup.


Thanks for your help everyone!


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/15450373
> 
> 
> I forget. You might want to search or ask someone in the Sony Service Codes thread.
> 
> 
> I'm not doubting what you are seeing. My guess is that the component out of your HD-DVR box is either defective or just very poor quality.
> 
> 
> I've compared component video to HDMI with the following components:
> 
> 
> Scientific Atlanta Cable Box
> 
> Toshiba HD-A1
> 
> Toshiba HD-A2
> 
> Panasonic DMP-BD10
> 
> Sony BDP-S301
> 
> Sony BDP-S1
> 
> 
> Every one of these is considerably sharper with component.



Same here. I do not doubt you and others find component video superior to that of HDMI. And there are also some who have purchased switch boxes to hook up multiple components (bluray, xbox 360, cable box) via HDMI (obviously those with upconverting players have no choice but to use the HDMI connection). I honestly expected to find no difference between the two.


It could be the SA 8300 HD DVR as you mentioned. In the AVS forum for Cablevision of New York many feel (as I do) that it's component output isn't as good as that of HDMI.


The bottom line: we're all happy with our 960s.


----------



## DJF(NJ)




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/15450432
> 
> 
> Hey. Have you taken it off yet?
> 
> 
> No, I intend to do it next weekend. I put it off until I before I would get the set calibrated again. Missed Chad's last 2 visits.
> 
> 
> 
> When is Chad coming? I might be interested in a grey scale touch up.



He's gonna be at my place on Monday morning, January 19th.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DJF(NJ)* /forum/post/15451901
> 
> 
> He's gonna be at my place on Monday morning, January 19th.



Are you having him recalibrate the whole thing?


----------



## [email protected]

My 960 has served me well. Dark Knight BRay on PS3 on this TV was great.


Santa brought a Sammy LCD LN40A630 for bedroom, and I prefer the Sony's rendering of the same Bluray! Perhaps I have yet to find the best settings on the LCD.


An upgrade, at least in size, is coming to our family room, sending the 960 to basement.


I am considering Pioneer 60" pro fd151 and Sammy 67" dlp. How close will the blacks and overall PQ be on either of these look compared to my all time favorite, the 960?


----------



## unclepauly

Pioneer will be close. Sammy no so much.


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]* /forum/post/15467952
> 
> 
> My 960 has served me well. Dark Knight BRay on PS3 on this TV was great.
> 
> 
> Santa brought a Sammy LCD LN40A630 for bedroom, and I prefer the Sony's rendering of the same Bluray! Perhaps I have yet to find the best settings on the LCD.
> 
> 
> An upgrade, at least in size, is coming to our family room, sending the 960 to basement.
> 
> 
> I am considering Pioneer 60" pro fd151 and Sammy 67" dlp. How close will the blacks and overall PQ be on either of these look compared to my all time favorite, the 960?



An LCD will never compare to a CRT in terms of Colour and motion Quality. Only a plasma display is the closet comarison to a Hi-Scan XBR


----------



## S. Hiller

The Samsung 67" DLP (assuming you mean the HL67A750 LED backed model) has an amazing price/performance ratio. And though for a lot more money, that Pioneer is arguably the finest TV in the world....


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *S. Hiller* /forum/post/15473736
> 
> 
> The Samsung 67" DLP (assuming you mean the HL67A750 LED backed model) has an amazing price/performance ratio. And though for a lot more money, that Pioneer is arguably the finest TV in the world....



Pioneer certainly makes a fine TV and I'd buy one if I could. However, Mitsubishi's newest LaserView TV makes Pioneer's Kuro look like a Vizio LCD.


If you need wall mountability buy a Kuro. If you desire the best picture quality buy a LaserVue.

http://www.engadgethd.com/2008/10/18...rther-testing/ 

http://www.thetechlounge.com/article...We-Meet-Again/ 










Just look at how much more building detail there is. On my Sony GDM-F500 and GDM-FW900 CRT monitors, I can see huge differences in the quality.


----------



## unclepauly

What's peoples sharpness set at for this TV? I had to turn it down to min to get rid of artifacts. Is this the consensus? It looks more natural at min but ever so slightly less detailed(of course).


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/15476051
> 
> 
> What's peoples sharpness set at for this TV? I had to turn it down to min to get rid of artifacts. Is this the consensus? It looks more natural at min but ever so slightly less detailed(of course).



All depends upon how the various factors shaping sharpness and edge enhancement are callibrated within the service section. Originally mine were very low however once I did some callibrating it reduced the ratio between soft and hard so I'm able to keep it at 29 for both HDMI and 480p (edge enhancement high for HDMI and medium for 480p). I use the movie mode.


Have you tried lowering edge enhancement?


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/15476051
> 
> 
> What's peoples sharpness set at for this TV? I had to turn it down to min to get rid of artifacts. Is this the consensus? It looks more natural at min but ever so slightly less detailed(of course).



Yes, the minimum setting in pro mode is the only way to get no edge enhancement. Most people settle for a little enhancement. I'm a purist and can't stand any of it, so I have everything at minimum.


----------



## unclepauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15476476
> 
> 
> Have you tried lowering edge enhancement?



I have edge enhancement off. Haven't touched the service menu as I'm having ChadB come out in about a month to calibrate.


@RWetmore - I used the AVCHD disc on my PS3 to come to the same conclusion. Min in pro mode for no artifacts. I think I'll leave it that way as it looks natural and I'm the same I can't stand any altering of source.


The settings I came to with the AVCHD disc are -


Pro mode


Everything at standard setting except


Brightness - 35

Contrast - 38

Sharpness - Min

Color Temp - Warm


I did not reduce the red push to the monitor setting as it resulted in a green tint to my eyes. I'd much rather deal with a red tint. Color temp normal is fatiguing to my eyes.




Edit* - I just checked the batteries in the remote. The same remote that I received when I purchased the TV last month from craigslist. The guy told me he hardly used the set and bought it brand new 2 yrs ago from (BB or CC can't remember). Well the freakin remote still has the original sony batteries in it so I guess he wasn't lying about the low usage. This TV is nearly facking mint.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/15494455
> 
> 
> I have edge enhancement off. Haven't touched the service menu as I'm having ChadB come out in about a month to calibrate.
> 
> 
> @RWetmore - I used the AVCHD disc on my PS3 to come to the same conclusion. Min in pro mode for no artifacts. I think I'll leave it that way as it looks natural and I'm the same I can't stand any altering of source.
> 
> 
> The settings I came to with the AVCHD disc are -
> 
> 
> Pro mode
> 
> 
> Everything at standard setting except
> 
> 
> Brightness - 35
> 
> Contrast - 38
> 
> Sharpness - Min
> 
> Color Temp - Warm
> 
> 
> I did not reduce the red push to the monitor setting as it resulted in a green tint to my eyes. I'd much rather deal with a red tint. Color temp normal is fatiguing to my eyes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit* - I just checked the batteries in the remote. The same remote that I received when I purchased the TV last month from craigslist. The guy told me he hardly used the set and bought it brand new 2 yrs ago from (BB or CC can't remember). Well the freakin remote still has the original sony batteries in it so I guess he wasn't lying about the low usage. This TV is nearly facking mint.



Glad you found it in nearly mint condition. These are my user settings for HDMI -just for comparision:



MODE MOVIE

PICTURE 44

BRIGHTNESS 29

COLOR 38

HUE 0

SHARPNESS 29

COLOR TEMPERATURE cool

COLOR ACCESS: default


While different from your's each set performs differently so nothing is written in stone. As mentioned, service callibrations have a profound affect on user settings. For example, my factory SERVICE setting for edge enhancement was set at high creating either too hard a picture or one smooth but less detailed. By adjusting it to flat there was no longer a need to keep either user setting near minimum and more detail became apparrent without the grain or harshness as before.


----------



## DJF(NJ)




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/15452362
> 
> 
> Are you having him recalibrate the whole thing?



Yes.


----------



## unclepauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15495172
> 
> 
> Glad you found it in nearly mint condition. These are my user settings for HDMI -just for comparision:
> 
> 
> 
> MODE MOVIE
> 
> PICTURE 44
> 
> BRIGHTNESS 29
> 
> COLOR 38
> 
> HUE 0
> 
> SHARPNESS 29
> 
> COLOR TEMPERATURE cool
> 
> COLOR ACCESS: default
> 
> 
> While different from your's each set performs differently so nothing is written in stone. As mentioned, service callibrations have a profound affect on user settings. For example, my factory SERVICE setting for edge enhancement was set at high creating either too hard a picture or one smooth but less detailed. By adjusting it to flat there was no longer a need to keep either user setting near minimum and more detail became apparrent without the grain or harshness as before.



I had my picture and brightness backwards. I have brightness at 38 and picture at 35.


Yeah, I'm anticipating a big change in performance after calibration. I'm sure my user settings will get changed and I'll have a few Q's for Chad when he's finished with the set.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/15495427
> 
> 
> I had my picture and brightness backwards. I have brightness at 38 and picture at 35.
> 
> 
> Yeah, I'm anticipating a big change in performance after calibration. I'm sure my user settings will get changed and I'll have a few Q's for Chad when he's finished with the set.



Yup, if you think the 960 looks great now, wait and see how it will look after a professional callibration. Even though I didn't have mine done professionally (did on my own through research, other's adjustments and observations based on text patterns) I can see such a tremendous difference!


----------



## RWetmore

The settings differ dramatically from set to set to achieve the same levels. I know because I've calibrated a few of these for friends.


----------



## Slinky11

I just picked up a 960 from CL and had a few friends help carry it.. upstairs too. fun! What tips do you experienced people suggest for this TV to not break next week and keep it running forever like all CRTs







.


----------



## pablopcasso

Greetings, everyone! I just bought a new KD-34XBR970 to complement the KD-34XBR2 I've had since 2003 or so. The only differences besides cosmetics and remotes are the HDMI input and a few pounds. My friends laugh because 1) their plasmas and LCDs are SO much larger and 2) the XBR2 weighs in at well over 200 lbs. and the XBR970 is no lightweight at 190-something. My screen size to weight ratio leaves a bit to be desired in their eyes.


The picture quality is neck-and-neck and I couldn't be happier. It is amazing how little my friends care about picture quality and how much about picture size. In some rooms (like mine and many of theirs) the distance from the screen is too short to quantify a screen as large as some of theirs. Generally speaking, I tell them, if your head has to move to follow the action, the screen is too large for the room.


I love having like-minded folks to share this hobby with. Keep up the good work!


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Slinky11* /forum/post/15510798
> 
> 
> I just picked up a 960 from CL and had a few friends help carry it.. upstairs too. fun! What tips do you experienced people suggest for this TV to not break next week and keep it running forever like all CRTs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



If you mean furniture-wise, the best protection is the custom-made stand which has openings on the top for insertion of the set's bottom corners to keep it in place along with a safety belt on the back for extra protection against tilting over.


And congratulations to you and your friends for being able to lift it up the stairs successfully!


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pablopcasso* /forum/post/15511280
> 
> 
> It is amazing how little my friends care about picture quality and how much about picture size. In some rooms (like mine and many of theirs) the distance from the screen is too short to quantify a screen as large as some of theirs.



I agree 100%. And when one thinks about it, the size appears almost the same sitting closer to the 960/70 as opposed to sitting further back for a larger screen.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pablopcasso* /forum/post/15511280
> 
> 
> Generally speaking, I tell them, if your head has to move to follow the action, the screen is too large for the room.



That's a great way of putting it!


----------



## WJonathan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Slinky11* /forum/post/15510798
> 
> 
> I just picked up a 960 from CL and had a few friends help carry it.. upstairs too. fun! What tips do you experienced people suggest for this TV to not break next week and keep it running forever like all CRTs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



A lot of people like those very expensive "power conditioners" or whatever they're called that protect against surges and provide staedy current for their electronics. You could also peruse the "Sony won't power on" thread and buy some of the failure-prone ICs to have on hand just in case. Not saying it will happen to you, but if you really want it to last a long time...


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WJonathan* /forum/post/15513178
> 
> 
> A lot of people like those very expensive "power conditioners" or whatever they're called that protect against surges and provide staedy current for their electronics. You could also peruse the "Sony won't power on" thread and buy some of the failure-prone ICs to have on hand just in case. Not saying it will happen to you, but if you really want it to last a long time...



Jonathan,


You're right to suggest not using a standard surge protector (even though Sony said the oposite in the owner's manual) because the automatic degauser needs full power to work properly. I've kept mine plugged directly into the wall socket.


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pablopcasso* /forum/post/15511280
> 
> 
> greetings, everyone! I just bought a new kd-34xbr970 to complement the kd-34xbr2 i've had since 2003 or so. The only differences besides cosmetics and remotes are the hdmi input and a few pounds. My friends laugh because 1) their plasmas and lcds are so much larger and 2) the xbr2 weighs in at well over 200 lbs. And the xbr970 is no lightweight at 190-something. My screen size to weight ratio leaves a bit to be desired in their eyes.
> 
> 
> The picture quality is neck-and-neck and i couldn't be happier. It is amazing how little my friends care about picture quality and how much about picture size. In some rooms (like mine and many of theirs) the distance from the screen is too short to quantify a screen as large as some of theirs. Generally speaking, i tell them, if your head has to move to follow the action, the screen is too large for the room.
> 
> 
> I love having like-minded folks to share this hobby with. Keep up the good work!




kd-34xbr970 != kd-34xbr960


----------



## JGD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15277802
> 
> 
> If you want to use more than one source through HDMI (Video 7) there are switch boxes that allow you to connect two or three devices to a single HDMI input. I forgot the one that was recommended by a forum member about a half year ago.
> 
> 
> BTW - I've asked this question before. How do DVDs upconvered to 1080i look on the 960 compared to being output at 480p?



Haven't used my 960 for some time but I remember doing comparisons between the picture with 480i or 480p from the DVD player. I was using a JVC 75GD or something and component output. The JVC had a little button to push which changed the output from 480i to 480p. The player did not have an HDMI output either so the 960 did the conversion to 1080i.


480p definitely looked better but I was able to change the quality of the 480i output using DRC (Digital Reality Creation) to make them very close in picture quality.


JGD


----------



## bbbobbb

A couple of quick comments:


1) I finally broke down and bought a PS3 to be my first Blu-Ray player. Last week, when I first got it, I watched half a dozen movies on it, via HDMI, on my Pany plasma 720P. It looked superb.


However when I plugged it in to the XBR960 it was *significantly* better, also using HDMI. Absolutely the *BEST* picture I have ever seen. I used I, Robot (so far) as my test disk. There is no comparison to "regular" DVD's.


Don't forget there is wide wide quality variability on both DVD's and Blu Ray disks. Total Recall looked like crap mostly on Blu Ray and I assume would look the same on DVD. The Day The Earth Stood Still on Blu Ray looks amazing, you can see all kinds of things you never saw before and the "extras" are a lot of fun.


2) The $30 monoprice "4X1 Enhanced 1.3b Certified HDMI Switch with built-in Equalizer and Remote (REV.3.0)" model # 4088 has no problem with my Moto 3416 cable box, the PS3, an Apple TV, and a WD TV switching to the XBR 960.... I also bought HDMI cables from them as well. Someday I will buy a fancy AV Receiver with all kinds of switching and upscaling but for now this is the best $30 I have spent.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JGD* /forum/post/15522107
> 
> 
> Haven't used my 960 for some time but I remember doing comparisons between the picture with 480i or 480p from the DVD player. I was using a JVC 75GD or something and component output. The JVC had a little button to push which changed the output from 480i to 480p. The player did not have an HDMI output either so the 960 did the conversion to 1080i.
> 
> 
> 480p definitely looked better but I was able to change the quality of the 480i output using DRC (Digital Reality Creation) to make them very close in picture quality.
> 
> 
> JGD



Hi,


Yes, the 960 does a great job upconverting and I sense perhaps better than most upconverting DVD players.

Upscaled DVDs appear so sharp and vibrant on the 960 when properly mastered from a pristine source.


Was also able to adjust the DRC to get a very good picture however, as you and others say, 480p is the way to go.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bbbobbb* /forum/post/15524084
> 
> 
> A couple of quick comments:
> 
> 
> 1) I finally broke down and bought a PS3 to be my first Blu-Ray player. Last week, when I first got it, I watched half a dozen movies on it, via HDMI, on my Pany plasma 720P. It looked superb.
> 
> 
> However when I plugged it in to the XBR960 it was *significantly* better, also using HDMI. Absolutely the *BEST* picture I have ever seen. I used I, Robot (so far) as my test disk. There is no comparison to "regular" DVD's.
> 
> 
> Don't forget there is wide wide quality variability on both DVD's and Blu Ray disks. Total Recall looked like crap mostly on Blu Ray and I assume would look the same on DVD. The Day The Earth Stood Still on Blu Ray looks amazing, you can see all kinds of things you never saw before and the "extras" are a lot of fun.
> 
> 
> 2) The $30 monoprice "4X1 Enhanced 1.3b Certified HDMI Switch with built-in Equalizer and Remote (REV.3.0)" model # 4088 has no problem with my Moto 3416 cable box, the PS3, an Apple TV, and a WD TV switching to the XBR 960.... I also bought HDMI cables from them as well. Someday I will buy a fancy AV Receiver with all kinds of switching and upscaling but for now this is the best $30 I have spent.



Congrats on your Playstation 3 and thanks for letting us know how much better it looks on your 960 compared to the Plasma. Total recall didn't look so hot on regular DVD either, despite it's fancy packaging.


And thanks for letting us know about the monoprice HDMI switch since many of us might need to get one in the future.


----------



## unclepauly

Is it OK to use windex and paper towels to clean the screen? Or should I go for less abrasive and less chemicals?


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/15527667
> 
> 
> Is it OK to use windex and paper towels to clean the screen? Or should I go for less abrasive and less chemicals?



No on the windex. It will compromise any coatings on the glass. I believe, a soft cloth moistened with water is the recommendation from Sony. You may need something more to get rid of finger smudges. I use a monitor cleaner that is recommended for panels and crts.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/15527823
> 
> 
> No on the windex. It will compromise any coatings on the glass. I believe, a soft cloth moistened with water is the recommendation from Sony. You may need something more to get rid of finger smudges. I use a monitor cleaner that is recommended for panels and crts.



I also try to avoid all glass cleaners but sometimes a damp cloth leaves streaks on the screen which those cleaners do not. So far I have been lucky using Glass Plus only once in a while but don't wish to further chance it. Any recommendations on how to avoid those streaks? I've tried letting the screen dry on it's own and using dry paper towels to wipe it down after applying the water but most of the time the streaks still remain.


Even if a monitor cleaner is recommended for CRTs, wouldn't this potentially cause problems since the 960 has special coatings unlike other CRTs?


----------



## hitman25

I have used the LCD Plasma cleaner sold at Walmart from Philips for $9 and it worked great not one problem...I use it with just a little on a cloth and it cleaned off everything and didn't effect any coating. It is colored blue ina bottle,


----------



## DLB960

I am a very lucky in that I found a hardly used 960 for 250 bucks and only had to drive like 10 minutes to pick it up (at least I know how lucky I am, so don't hate me too much







!!! ). I am by no means an expert and have found that using the advice I found on this forum I was able to get a significantly better picture so far without using the service-menu---I am a little nervous that I'll screw something up if I do go in and start tweaking.... I am inclined to learn about it, but I am almost happier with the idea of having a real professional come out to do it safely and right. Is there a standard resource for people who do this? I am in S.FL and don't really know where to begin looking for such a specialist... Any help would be much appreciated!


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DLB960* /forum/post/15549842
> 
> 
> I am a very lucky in that I found a hardly used 960 for 250 bucks and only had to drive like 10 minutes to pick it up (at least I know how lucky I am, so don't hate me too much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !!! ). I am by no means an expert and have found that using the advice I found on this forum I was able to get a significantly better picture so far without using the service-menu---I am a little nervous that I'll screw something up if I do go in and start tweaking.... I am inclined to learn about it, but I am almost happier with the idea of having a real professional come out to do it safely and right. Is there a standard resource for people who do this? I am in S.FL and don't really know where to begin looking for such a specialist... Any help would be much appreciated!



AVS has an entire forum dedicated to the subject:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=586330 


If you were looking for xbr960 specific advice, ChadB from Ohio seems to be at the top of most lists. He does go on the road, check his website for more details.

http://www.hdtvbychadb.com/index.html


----------



## DLB960

Thank you


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DLB960* /forum/post/15549842
> 
> 
> I am a very lucky in that I found a hardly used 960 for 250 bucks and only had to drive like 10 minutes to pick it up (at least I know how lucky I am, so don't hate me too much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !!! ). I am by no means an expert and have found that using the advice I found on this forum I was able to get a significantly better picture so far without using the service-menu---I am a little nervous that I'll screw something up if I do go in and start tweaking.... I am inclined to learn about it, but I am almost happier with the idea of having a real professional come out to do it safely and right. Is there a standard resource for people who do this? I am in S.FL and don't really know where to begin looking for such a specialist... Any help would be much appreciated!



Chad B. He is the foremost expert on this set and knows it inside out. No one else spend as much time on them to make sure they are they best they can be.


S. FL = Miami?


----------



## DLB960




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/15559835
> 
> 
> Chad B. He is the foremost expert on this set and knows it inside out. No one else spend as much time on them to make sure they are they best they can be.
> 
> 
> S. FL = Miami?




I am living in Ft.Lauderdale at the present time, although I am just here for grad-school and will be moving back to Orlando in about 6mo. I think I will try to contact ChadB when I have some extra cash. I am living on student loans so I dont have much of that right now...


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DLB960* /forum/post/15561428
> 
> 
> I am living in Ft.Lauderdale at the present time, although I am just here for grad-school and will be moving back to Orlando in about 6mo. I think I will try to contact ChadB when I have some extra cash. I am living on student loans so I dont have much of that right now...



I suspect he might be down in Orlando for the show in March, but do not know.


I would find a way to get the cash - you will not regret it.


----------



## RWetmore

Chad B is the best for this set because he also does the magnet/geometry work for no extra charge. I would definitely contact him to see if he might be coming to your area in the near future.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hitman25* /forum/post/15535635
> 
> 
> I have used the LCD Plasma cleaner sold at Walmart from Philips for $9 and it worked great not one problem...I use it with just a little on a cloth and it cleaned off everything and didn't effect any coating. It is colored blue ina bottle,



The store-brand glass cleaner that I use is also blue color liquid. After first dusting the screen, a small amount is applied to a paper towel to gently wipe down the screen (use as little pressure as possible). Another paper towel is used to dry it. So far, no problem with the coating.


I still find plain water leaves streaks whereas the glass cleaner doesn't with the screen also more sparkling.


----------



## DLB960

Well, I'm sold. I will inquire on when ChadB is going to be in my area. Thanks for the help guys.


----------



## WJonathan

I've always heard that you shouldnt use paper towels because the wood fibers can scratch the coating. My preferred method is just to use hand soap and warm water to remove marks, then buff the screen dry with a clean 100% cotton t-shirt. I buff with light pressure in concentric circles, like I'm waxing a car, and can usually get rid of any streaking that way.


----------



## Chorgey

I don't use any chemicals, paper towels or water. Good old fashioned 'breathing' on the surface and a 100% cotton t-shirt do the trick on any spots that may be on the screen. I use a motion from top to bottom, not circular. Peculiar but true.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WJonathan* /forum/post/15586741
> 
> 
> I've always heard that you shouldnt use paper towels because the wood fibers can scratch the coating. My preferred method is just to use hand soap and warm water to remove marks, then buff the screen dry with a clean 100% cotton t-shirt. I buff with light pressure in concentric circles, like I'm waxing a car, and can usually get rid of any streaking that way.



Excellent suggestion and I don't know why it never occured to me. Going to try that the next time but will use cool water instead since my analogy is that it is more like cleaning eyeglasses than waxing a car (nothing personal, LOL). Soap suds tend to disolve more thoroughly with cold water and when cleaning glasses lenses were crystal clear and sharper using cold water (no longer wear them because my cateracts were removed).


Thanks again for reminding us of the most simple way to clean the screen.


----------



## DJF(NJ)

I finally went ahead and removed the anti glare coating from my 960 yesterday. Wasnt too difficult. Lots of screws to keep track of mostly. There's a detailed write-up way back in this thread, but in I'll provide a quick recap. Take off back piece, then take out the subwoofer and two supports on both side. Loosen the front chassis by screws and 4 clips. Couldnt reach the bottom screws as they're almost impossible to get to without removing some circuit boards. But the bottom part flexes enough to pull the strip off. The strip is a real heavy duty plastic-type film strip. Really worked my fingers and forearms to get it off. It is also VERY sharp at the edges and I cut myself 4 times reaching to grab it. It's a bit more reflective with it off and I had to clean very thoroughly to get the glue residue off the glass. But I managed to watch it afterwards and was able to notice and increase in detail as well as a brighter image. I'm sure the picture is inaccurate now, but Chad B is coming tomorrow to recalibrate. Overall, it took me about 2 hours to do including a food break.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DJF(NJ)* /forum/post/15589995
> 
> 
> I finally went ahead and removed the anti glare coating from my 960 yesterday. Wasnt too difficult. Lots of screws to keep track of mostly. There's a detailed write-up way back in this thread, but in I'll provide a quick recap. Take off back piece, then take out the subwoofer and two supports on both side. Loosen the front chassis by screws and 4 clips. Couldnt reach the bottom screws as they're almost impossible to get to without removing some circuit boards. But the bottom part flexes enough to pull the strip off. The strip is a real heavy duty plastic-type film strip. Really worked my fingers and forearms to get it off. It is also VERY sharp at the edges and I cut myself 4 times reaching to grab it. It's a bit more reflective with it off and I had to clean very thoroughly to get the glue residue off the glass. But I managed to watch it afterwards and was able to notice and increase in detail as well as a brighter image. I'm sure the picture is inaccurate now, but Chad B is coming tomorrow to recalibrate. Overall, it took me about 2 hours to do including a food break.



Glad you got it off successfully. Let us know how it looks after Chad's calibration.


Edit: BTW, did you use Goo Gone to remove the sticky residue left on the screen? It worked like a charm for me.


----------



## DJF(NJ)

No, I used a citrus-based cleaner that was safe for glass. It worked fine but it left some streaking so I used rubbing alcohol afterwards to get rid of the streaks. Chad came and touched up the grayscale and convergence. He said my black levels had dropped a few clicks so he brought them up. When I watched 'The Dark Knight' afterwards, there was an increase in shadow detail. In the opening scene, I was able to see the blue in the villains jackets better when the light was shifting through the shots. Most of my other settings had drifted off a bit. Havent watched anything else, but I was impressed with the way it looked afterwards. Will have to look more closely at other movies Im familiar with to judge accordingly, but it did seem that the phosphor trail in dark scenes had improved a bit too.


----------



## danfoley

Hey all.. i noticed that some people are looking for one, and i'm selling one.. it's 34xbr960 .. a good deal of the anti reflective coating has been scratched off due to kids.. but you really don't notice it at that much.


Anyways.. i'm looking to sell it for $400 or best offer. Contact me if interested. I'm in pittsburgh pa, and as you all know these things weigh in at 200lbs.. so you'd have to carry it out.. (bring a friend!)


----------



## LongRufus

I just had a very strange experience with my 960 and was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on it. I just replaced the video card on the HTPC that is connected to my 960 so i could upgrade to HDMI. Everything went fine with the upgrade but I decided to tweak the overscan settings for Input 7(HDMI) because my browser was a bit off the screen. I had tweaked the overscan settings for this and a few of the other inputs in the past and was pretty comfortable with the process. Everything went fairly smoothly and after getting a satifactory screen, I exited the service menu. When I powered the 960 back up, everything on Input 7 was exactly as I left it in the service menu. My problem came when I switched inputs. On both my internal tuner and Input 5 component I now have severe pincushioning on all non HD 4x3 content. The top and bottom of the 4x3 box are straight, but both sides bow noticeably inwards from the top and bottom corners. I am pretty sure I know when it happened, but for the life of me I can't figure out why. My only misstep in the service menu was when i was navigating through either 2170D-1 or 2170D-2 using the 1-4 buttons on the remote. My finger slipped as I went to press the 1 and I accidentally hit the TV/Video button above it, which bumped me over to my internal tuner. I pressed the TV/Video button two more times to return to Input 7 and continued with my tweaking. I pressed no other buttons while I was momentarily on the other inputs and i certainly did not press the mute/enter combo to write any data while I was off input 7. Does anyone have any ideas about what the hell happened to my 960?


Before I go back into the service menu and start mucking around, I would really like to know how this could happen and more importantly, how I can prevent it from happening again in the future. Thanks!


----------



## raouliii

LongRufus - It would appear that you made adjustments to a global or grouped parameters that affected more than just input7. Are you aware that many parameters are not input specific but are resolution specific? Do you have a copy of the actual service menu charts or are you using the spreadsheets posted on this board?


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/15645707
> 
> 
> LongRufus - It would appear that you made adjustments to a global or grouped parameters that affected more than just input7. Are you aware that many parameters are not input specific but are resolution specific? Do you have a copy of the actual service menu charts or are you using the spreadsheets posted on this board?



Thank you. I was not aware of that, but it makes much more sense now. I've been avoiding the overwhelming service code thread, but it looks like I have a bunch of reading to do.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

This time tried cleaning the screen with a soft cloth moderately saturated with cold water and a bit of mild Ivory liquid dish washing soap. After drying it down with another soft cloth I suddenly noticed toward the very top close to the left a small (maybe 1" x 1/8") smudge that unfortunately cannot be removed.


It's really only noticable when the set is off and then one has to look for it. With the picture on there is no color, contrast or brightness distortion either up close or six feet away and against any type of background. The smudge itself can only be seen at a certain angle and even then only looks like light reflecting off the screen (with the lamps opposite the screen off the smudge becomes invisible no matter what the distance or angle is).


The surface affected feels perfectly smooth with absolutely no roughness or peeling but I guess I did remove a very minute portion of the coating (it isn't possible that a bit of soapy water adhered to the screen instead, is it?). I realize my mistake was the use of dish washing liquid instead of liquid hand washing soap.


In actuality it can't be seen and doesn't affect the picture but naturally it drives me up walls just knowing it's there (and that I caused it doesn't make me feel any better). BTW. my better half doesn't think it's any big deal - of course, she's right but I told her this is just a "guy" thing..


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/15376551
> 
> 
> Interesting.
> 
> 
> Reviewing your original post, you stated:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So everyone knows your TV is old (which means its not a $2000 TV) and you are surprised that a TV has a problem in 3-5 years after it is made.
> 
> 
> So what part of someone knowing something helpful would change that in your post?



A lot of Zenith TV's made in the 1960's to late 1970's were hand assembled using the highest quality parts and most after 30+ years of abuse are still operational. Sony on the other hand randomly implements a device in to their products, which in Akihabara is known as the Sony Timer .


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tveli* /forum/post/15316909
> 
> 
> anyone run an xbr960 off a generator? i'd been running my 34xbr32 thusly; finally got grid power back today after 5 days.
> 
> the 34xbr2 did some tutti frutti things at the left & right 1/3 of the screen, evident even to the color-vision-challenged. but the center was great and amazingly little jitter/artifacts from the funky generator power.
> 
> cable was out for 5 days too so atsc tuner was mighty handy.
> 
> my portable tvs were useful too - it's going to be annoying dealing with atsc and a portable tv somehow in the next power outage, but we'll have to do it else we'll miss the news story about the dude who got too drunk for his own good and tried to force a repair crew to fix his power, so the cops tased him.
> 
> ps - sounds like the xbr960 has cool things in the service menu that 34xbr2 does not have. i can't get a grid pattern for 34xbr2 without using an external signal generator, as far as i know.



Your generator may not have been producing proper 60hz sine waves. Which can be a problem on cheaper power conversion and/or generation equipment. It's possible that your generator is a 12v DC unit and uses a cheap "square wave" inverter to output 120 vac.


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15292869
> 
> 
> I have an optical cable going from our HD DVR directly to our Yamaha receiver with an HDMI from the DVR directly to the 960. When I retained the HDMI connection but used the 960's optical out to the receiver only two-channel surround was heard - no 5.1 signal was passed on by the Sony.
> 
> 
> I've been told the 960 does not pass along 5.1 signals. If this isn't the case was there something I did wrong? There is no analog connection between the 960 and the receiver to over-ride a dolby digital signal. Switching the DVR's audio out between HDMI and Dolby Digital had no effect.



I finally built up enough muscle (eh-hem courage) to move my XBR 960 to the same room as my Integra DTR-7.6. The XBR960 will pass 5.1 channel Dolby Digital on to the recever. Those who are getting only stereo need to check their reciever/decoder settings to make sure that the steering and DSP setinggs are correct or disabled. In my case, I disabled the DSP sound modes and have it set to automatic.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *8086* /forum/post/15690867
> 
> 
> I finally built up enough muscle (eh-hem courage) to move my XBR 960 to the same room as my Integra DTR-7.6. The XBR960 will pass 5.1 channel Dolby Digital on to the recever. Those who are getting only stereo need to check their reciever/decoder settings to make sure that the steering and DSP setinggs are correct or disabled. In my case, I disabled the DSP sound modes and have it set to automatic.



Hi 8086,


Seems you've been catching up on old posts.


I actually did not disconnect the optical wire from the Yamaha, instead, just disconnected it from the box to the TV, so was using the input never changed. Will try again but don't know what was wrong.


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15691039
> 
> 
> Hi 8086,
> 
> 
> Seems you've been catching up on old posts.
> 
> 
> I actually did not disconnect the optical wire from the Yamaha, instead, just disconnected it from the box to the TV, so was using the input never changed. Will try again but don't know what was wrong.



Been busy lately. Unpacking and setting my equipment up again reminded me of the old post from 45 days ago. I don't know what cable box you have, but my parents have a Scientific Atlantic and I used the COAX (lossless compared to toslink) for 5.1 and had good results with their Onkyo HTIB.


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *8086* /forum/post/15690780
> 
> 
> A lot of Zenith TV's made in the 1960's to late 1970's were hand assembled using the highest quality parts and most after 30+ years of abuse are still operational. Sony on the other hand randomly implements a device in to their products, which in Akihabara is known as the Sony Timer .



And many people have Sony TVs from the 60s and 70s that still work as well (and even those that do not work, lasted 15-20 years on average). It is well known that Sony TVs of the 60s and 70s outperformed Zenith in every metric except sales (as people tended to buy American and Sony was a rare brand during that time whose few dealers would not sell below MSRP by contract). If you get 5 years out of any brand now, consider yourself lucky.


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/15691601
> 
> 
> And many people have Sony TVs from the 60s and 70s that still work as well (and even those that do not work, lasted 15-20 years on average). It is well known that Sony TVs of the 60s and 70s outperformed Zenith in every metric except sales (as people tended to buy American and Sony was a rare brand during that time whose few dealers would not sell below MSRP by contract). If you get 5 years out of any brand now, consider yourself lucky.



Sony may have made a better performing TV, but Zenith was one the most reliable ever made. It was the Toyota of TV's vs The less reliable Ferrari. A lot of the people who bought them still owned them well in to the 1990's. I really can't say that about any of the Three Trinitrons that I have (and family) ever owned, but I hope the XBR960 will live up to the Zenith Legend.


EDIT:

Little trivia. In or around a 1991 issue of Popular Science, I read about how Zenith was working to Pioneer the future of television- HDTV. It's too bad they are not around to enjoy the spoils of their work. They, just as Sony certainly deserve a notable place in Electronics History for their achievements . After all, they did invent the space command .


----------



## RobMeyer1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/15691601
> 
> 
> And many people have Sony TVs from the 60s and 70s that still work as well (and even those that do not work, lasted 15-20 years on average). It is well known that Sony TVs of the 60s and 70s outperformed Zenith in every metric except sales (as people tended to buy American and Sony was a rare brand during that time whose few dealers would not sell below MSRP by contract). If you get 5 years out of any brand now, consider yourself lucky.



I have had great experience with Sony products. I have a 15" Sony Trinitron bought in 1972 that still worked the last time I used it about 3 years ago. I am listening right now to a Sony amplifier bought around 1974. My previous Sony XBR2 tv from mid 90's worked fine when I sold it about a year ago. And Sony HDTVs were recently rated the most reliable by PC World readers.


Hmmm, if there is a Sony Timer as noted by 8086, it must be defective.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *8086* /forum/post/15691528
> 
> 
> Been busy lately. Unpacking and setting my equipment up again reminded me of the old post from 45 days ago. I don't know what cable box you have, but my parents have a Scientific Atlantic and I used the COAX (lossless compared to toslink) for 5.1 and had good results with their Onkyo HTIB.



Have the Scientific Atlantic 8300 HD-DVR with a HDMI output from the box into the Sony so should be getting the same results as your parents. The COAX is output to another receiver in the den (other HT system) and the toslink to our Yamaha used in conjunction with the 960. Again, only got 2.0 surround, not 5.1.


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15692103
> 
> 
> Have the Scientific Atlantic 8300 HD-DVR with a HDMI output from the box into the Sony so should be getting the same results as your parents. The COAX is output to another receiver in the den (other HT system) and the toslink to our Yamaha used in conjunction with the 960. Again, only got 2.0 surround, not 5.1.



I am getting 5.1 sound out of the XBR960's toslink from an over the air (OTA) signal. I'll reconfigure my PS3 in later on tonight and see if I can get it to pass the 5.1 from HDMI to Toslink.


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobMeyer1* /forum/post/15691824
> 
> 
> I have had great experience with Sony products. I have a 15" Sony Trinitron bought in 1972 that still worked the last time I used it about 3 years ago. I am listening right now to a Sony amplifier bought around 1974. My previous Sony XBR2 tv from mid 90's worked fine when I sold it about a year ago. And Sony HDTVs were recently rated the most reliable by PC World readers.
> 
> 
> Hmmm, if there is a Sony Timer as noted by 8086, it must be defective.



In the early and late 1990's Had many Sony Discmans die after 91-93 days. All were out of warranty and replaced by the retailer, Sony would not touch it. The timer seems to affect stuff made after 1985-ish.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *8086* /forum/post/15696051
> 
> 
> I am getting 5.1 sound out of the XBR960's toslink from an over the air (OTA) signal. I'll reconfigure my PS3 in later on tonight and see if I can get it to pass the 5.1 from HDMI to Toslink.



That's quite interesting - one would think it doesn't matter where the 5.1 audio is input from. When connected from the 960 the audio was 2.0 no matter if the DVR's audio output was set to HDMI or Dolby Digital.


When you have a chance, please let me know and I'll try again.


Thanks again,

Joe


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15697434
> 
> 
> That's quite interesting - one would think it doesn't matter where the 5.1 audio is input from. When connected from the 960 the audio was 2.0 no matter if the DVR's audio output was set to HDMI or Dolby Digital.
> 
> 
> When you have a chance, please let me know and I'll try again.
> 
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Joe



I reconfigured my PS3 to use HDMI audio with toslink from XBR960 to the receiver. What happens is during the HDMI handshaking, the XBR identifies it's self as a 2ch sound system. Thus the *source device* only sends a 2ch 44khz signal to the TV. The XBR isn't so much to blame as the PS3, is at fault here; because in all other circumstances whether it's cable card or OTA, the XBR960 will pass 5.1 audio out of it's toslink if it's fed a 5.1 signal.


I think the work around here is, if your device has a manual settings mode where you can force a 5.1 channel sound to the XBR960 you will get 5.1 out of the TOSLINK jack. If that's not possible, the only work around I can see here is:

Get a reciever with HDMI v1.3
Connect Digital Coax or Toslink cable from the source box to your reciever/preamp/decoder.
If coax and toslink from your source box are connected to other components, then I'd suggest trying to find an SPDIF repeater/signal splitter.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *8086* /forum/post/15699821
> 
> 
> I reconfigured my PS3 to use HDMI audio with toslink from XBR960 to the receiver. What happens is during the HDMI handshaking, the XBR identifies it's self as a 2ch sound system. Thus the *source device* only sends a 2ch 44khz signal to the TV. The XBR isn't so much to blame as the PS3, is at fault here; because in all other circumstances whether it's cable card or OTA, the XBR960 will pass 5.1 audio out of it's toslink if it's fed a 5.1 signal.
> 
> 
> I think the work around here is, if your device has a manual settings mode where you can force a 5.1 channel sound to the XBR960 you will get 5.1 out of the TOSLINK jack. If that's not possible, the only work around I can see here is:
> 
> Get a reciever with HDMI v1.3
> Connect Digital Coax or Toslink cable from the source box to your reciever/preamp/decoder.
> If coax and toslink from your source box are connected to other components, then I'd suggest trying to find an SPDIF repeater/signal splitter.



I suspect it's a combination of both: the SA-8300 HD-DVR only outputting 2.0 via HDMI and that the 960 only accepting 2.0 signals via HDMI.


For sound to be heard through the 960, the DVR's audio output must be set to "HDMI". In this setting, however, only a 2.0 signal is output to the receiver via toslink. For the receiver to get 5.1, the DVR has to be set to "Dolby Digital", however, this cuts off the audio sent to the Sony via HDMI.


So even if we had an a/v receiver with switched HDMI, we would still need the separate toslink connection from the DVR.


Guess I can hook up rca cables between the 960 and the DVR so the DVR's audio output can be kept at "dolby digital" for the receiver yet still be heard through the 960.


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15703149
> 
> 
> I suspect it's a combination of both: the SA-8300 HD-DVR only outputting 2.0 via HDMI and that the 960 only accepting 2.0 signals via HDMI.
> 
> 
> For sound to be heard through the 960, the DVR's audio output must be set to "HDMI". In this setting, however, only a 2.0 signal is output to the receiver via toslink. For the receiver to get 5.1, the DVR has to be set to "Dolby Digital", however, this cuts off the audio sent to the Sony via HDMI.
> 
> 
> So even if we had an a/v receiver with switched HDMI, we would still need the separate toslink connection from the DVR.
> 
> 
> Guess I can hook up rca cables between the 960 and the DVR so the DVR's audio output can be kept at "dolby digital" for the receiver yet still be heard through the 960.



If you had a reciever with HDMI v1.3, you would only need one cable: HDMI can carry 7.2 channel surround sound plus, remote control commands, and the video data.


There would be no need for toslink, if you used HDMI for surround sound. I only used it because I have a plethora of Toslink Cables and no spare HDMI cables to run audio through my reciever, also as a bonus using HDMI for audio lets you tap in to those super high bit-rate lossless audio formats and let your receiver do the decoding if it's supported.


What I do not under stand is why you need to use RCA for your DVR audio? Shouldn't it have a toslink output? Second, I would like to possibly sort things out for you. What make and model receiver or preamp/decoder do you own? What is connected to what? How many of your devices toslink/coax output and how many inputs do you have? Finally, the only time analog out is preferred is when the output/source device has a newer/higher end/better quality dac than the receiver/decoder unit or if DRM is involved.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *8086* /forum/post/15706295
> 
> 
> If you had a reciever with HDMI v1.3, you would only need one cable: HDMI can carry 7.2 channel surround sound plus, remote control commands, and the video data.
> 
> 
> There would be no need for toslink, if you used HDMI for surround sound. I only used it because I have a plethora of Toslink Cables and no spare HDMI cables to run audio through my reciever, also as a bonus using HDMI for audio lets you tap in to those super high bit-rate lossless audio formats and let your receiver do the decoding if it's supported.
> 
> 
> What I do not under stand is why you need to use RCA for your DVR audio? Shouldn't it have a toslink output? Second, I would like to possibly sort things out for you. What make and model receiver or preamp/decoder do you own? What is connected to what? How many of your devices toslink/coax output and how many inputs do you have? Finally, the only time analog out is preferred is when the output/source device has a newer/higher end/better quality dac than the receiver/decoder unit or if DRM is involved.



Considered hooking RCA cables from the DVR to the 960 only as a matter of convenience. It would allow me to keep the DVR set to "dolby digital" at all times, eliminating the need to always have to change audio settings when switching from the 960 to the receiver. A down-converted 2.0 signal would be passed onto the 960 via the RCA cables while a full 5.1 will be output to the Yamaha.


I have an older 6.1 Yamaha without any HDMI connections.


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15706443
> 
> 
> Considered hooking RCA cables from the DVR to the 960 only as a matter of convenience. It would allow me to keep the DVR set to "dolby digital" at all times, eliminating the need to always have to change audio settings when switching from the 960 to the receiver. A down-converted 2.0 signal would be passed onto the 960 via the RCA cables while a full 5.1 will be output to the Yamaha.
> 
> 
> I have an older 6.1 Yamaha without any HDMI connections.



I see, you still use the XBR960 for sound, while I've disabled my XBR960's speakers and exclusively use my Paradigm/Integra DTR7.6 Setup. Makes sense now.


Hold out just a little bit longer, HDMI 1.3 is finding it's way in to bottom line receivers rather quickly and by 2011, I'd expect it to be standard fare on nearly all A/V equipment. And If you wait till 2011, I understand a newer spec will be released around or before then.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *8086* /forum/post/15706475
> 
> 
> I see, you still use the XBR960 for sound, while I've disabled my XBR960's speakers and exclusively use my Paradigm/Integra DTR7.6 Setup. Makes sense now.
> 
> 
> Hold out just a little bit longer, HDMI 1.3 is finding it's way in to bottom line receivers rather quickly and by 2011, I'd expect it to be standard fare on nearly all A/V equipment. And If you wait till 2011, I understand a newer spec will be released around or before then.



Hi,


Thanks for the suggestions, but right now I have a Yamaha RX-V 1000 (along with a Denon AR 2600 connected to the Yamaha to get the sixth channel) which I am very happy with. Not really considering a newer receiver since I don't want to sacrifice sound for convenience of HDMI from multiple video sources and not needing to change the audio from DVR


If I do get bluray, I'll get a HDMI switch box and use another toslink connection to the Yamaha. I'm not connecting those RCA cables to the 960 because set at "Dolby Digital" the DVR's volume becomes much lower on non 5.1 sources. Not important when using the television speakers but when dubbing DVDs using the "out to VCR" it dramaticly affects the volume recorded onto the disc, hence, I would still need to go into the DVR's audio menu anyway.


----------



## mortaldivine

How much are these worth used?


----------



## WJonathan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mortaldivine* /forum/post/15716887
> 
> 
> How much are these worth used?



$25. I can pick it up this evening.


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mortaldivine* /forum/post/15716887
> 
> 
> How much are these worth used?



In theory or in reality?


99% have gone from $250 - $450, with $300-$400 being the real price. If someone really wants one, no telling what you could get - however, most times those people are not in your town (or state).


----------



## hitman25

Question...I just got High Definition Dish netwrok box yesturday. I noticed when I looked and video 5 ( which I am using for HD with componet) I hit display and it says 480p?? Did the guy not set the HD dish box up right? SHouldn't it be putting out a 1080i signal??


Thanks


----------



## WJonathan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hitman25* /forum/post/15732835
> 
> 
> Question...I just got High Definition Dish netwrok box yesturday. I noticed when I looked and video 5 ( which I am using for HD with componet) I hit display and it says 480p?? Did the guy not set the HD dish box up right? SHouldn't it be putting out a 1080i signal??
> 
> 
> Thanks



You're correct that "Display" reveals the input source. Beyond that, call your cable provider to get the box straight.


----------



## high def mon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hitman25* /forum/post/15732835
> 
> 
> Question...I just got High Definition Dish netwrok box yesturday. I noticed when I looked and video 5 ( which I am using for HD with componet) I hit display and it says 480p?? Did the guy not set the HD dish box up right? SHouldn't it be putting out a 1080i signal??
> 
> 
> Thanks



press menu then system setup then HDTV Setup then under tv type scroll to 1080i


----------



## hitman25

Great Stuff guys. I got the High Def working looks great. Also I told you I had the problem of the TV not coming on when I first got it so SONY said plug it directly into the wall and that fixed the problem. I didn't like not having my $2000 with no surge protection. I bought a Monster Surge for $40 on EBAY the 800 series. It works FANTASTIC and now all my stuff is surge protected and comes on. I also like the fatc the label the plugs so now you no what plug goes to what device. All I need now is my PS3 for Blue Ray and I will be set completely up.


PEACE


----------



## Joseph Dubin

For the first time I was able to make some sort of Bluray vs. DVD comparision on the 960, albiet, an indirect way.


This evening Encore-HD aired "Goldfinger" so I put on my newly remastered DVD copy, synchronized it with the HD-DVR and compared the two.


Will swallow my pride and admit there was really no comparision. The picture on Encore-HD was indeed more colorful and sharper than my DVD with richer black levels and detail. Doubt I could have improved the DVD by re-adjusting the user settings since those have been properly set and am sure it would have made the disc appear artificial. And if the cable transmission looked great, no doubt the bluray itself would look even better.


Remember when I wasn't so impressed with the Bluray demonstration I had seen? While of course monitors are never set properly in stores I now realize another reason has to be that it wasn't demonstrated on the 960.


I'm still going to wait until the prices of Bluray players and discs drop and will only replace my very favorite DVDs (like the Bond collection, etc.). But in the meantime, throw the crow at me - I'll eat it since I've now seen the equivalent of Bluray on the 960. The HD picture just blew me away.


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15759772
> 
> 
> For the first time I was able to make some sort of Bluray vs. DVD comparision on the 960, albiet, an indirect way.
> 
> 
> This evening Encore-HD aired "Goldfinger" so I put on my newly remastered DVD copy, synchronized it with the HD-DVR and compared the two.
> 
> 
> Will swallow my pride and admit there was really no comparision. The picture on Encore-HD was indeed more colorful and sharper than my DVD with richer black levels and detail. Doubt I could have improved the DVD by re-adjusting the user settings since those have been properly set and am sure it would have made the disc appear artificial. And if the cable transmission looked great, no doubt the bluray itself would look even better.
> 
> 
> Remember when I wasn't so impressed with the Bluray demonstration I had seen? While of course monitors are never set properly in stores I now realize another reason has to be that it wasn't demonstrated on the 960.
> 
> 
> I'm still going to wait until the prices of Bluray players and discs drop and will only replace my very favorite DVDs (like the Bond collection, etc.). But in the meantime, throw the crow at me - I'll eat it since I've now seen the equivalent of Bluray on the 960. The HD picture just blew me away.



The differences in black levels can be attributed to the different video dac's used in each source appliance. The only true way of comparing SD to HD, is to make sure you view both over HDMI and let the XBR960's onboard DAC handle the D/A conversion for both SD and HD sources.


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/15722686
> 
> 
> In theory or in reality?
> 
> 
> 99% have gone from $250 - $450, with $300-$400 being the real price. If someone really wants one, no telling what you could get - however, most times those people are not in your town (or state).




I saw one that was stored in a warehouse, still new in the box sell for about $600-700 on ebay. Used, I have seen them sell for as little as $100 and upwards of $500. But $250-350 seems to be the common going rate at which they sell for on ebay.


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WJonathan* /forum/post/15717235
> 
> 
> $25. I can pick it up this evening.



I'll give you $100


----------



## gmarceau

Does anyone have a setting for black level that gets to absolute black?


I've got the service menu at 28 on SBRT and then the actual brightness setting at 25-26. Pretty damn black.


Not sure if this is crushing or not. Anyone have a recommended level?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gmarceau* /forum/post/15769022
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a setting for black level that gets to absolute black?
> 
> 
> I've got the service menu at 28 on SBRT and then the actual brightness setting at 25-26. Pretty damn black.
> 
> 
> Not sure if this is crushing or not. Anyone have a recommended level?



My SBRT is 29 so we're quite close, but it does also depend upon other servce settings, user picture level plus mode and input.


For HDMI in MOVIE mode my picture is 44 and brightness is 29. For DVD in MOVIE mode my picture is 41 and brightness is 31.


A HD test patten was used for HDMI and THX optomoizer for the DVD to get the contrast and brightness levels as best as possible.


Hope this helps.


Joe


----------



## gmarceau

I had forgotten about a couple settings in the service menu. One of them was YCON which was at 1. I set it to 0 and it seemed to give more of a dimming/cinema effect. That didn't really seem to matter, so I put it back to 1.


There's also a setting for blacks called BLK that goes from 0-3. Mine was at 0/1, as those are the same. I put it up to 3 and the picture seems to have more depth- it increases black level. I also put my SBRT back up to 31, as it's the same as adjusting the brightness. I then turned brightness on the tv down to about 29 or so.


I was thinking of just getting a test disk like the Joe Kane HDTV ones to test black patterns.


I'm just convinced that my tv can go blacker than a Kuro, since it's CRT. Although, the 5020 seems pretty tempting, since I heard that there's a way to play with the color space.


----------



## gmarceau

Oh, do you have any settings for brightness and picture in Pro mode?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gmarceau* /forum/post/15775306
> 
> 
> I was thinking of just getting a test disk like the Joe Kane HDTV ones to test black patterns.



I retained on my DVR the HD test patterns that were broadcast on the old INHD. Do you have a bluray player to callibrate the HD settings?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gmarceau* /forum/post/15775319
> 
> 
> Oh, do you have any settings for brightness and picture in Pro mode?



Not any more since I found I preferred the MOVIE mode for all sources.


----------



## DJF(NJ)




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gmarceau* /forum/post/15775306
> 
> 
> 
> I'm just convinced that my tv can go blacker than a Kuro, since it's CRT.



When ChadB calibrated my set a few weeks ago, he told me that he really liked the new Kuro's, but the 960 still had better black and color levels.


----------



## gmarceau

Ha! knew it! They don't make 'em like the xbr960 anymore!


----------



## gmarceau




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15775562
> 
> 
> I retained on my DVR the HD test patterns that were broadcast on the old INHD. Do you have a bluray player to callibrate the HD settings?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not any more since I found I preferred the MOVIE mode for all sources.



I have a blu ray player, but I'm really liking the results of playing with the BLK setting on the service menu. I can't think of anything else that plays with black level other than that and SBRT, which is essentially the brightness setting.


If there's anything else that plays with blacks, I'd like to try. I remember some other service codes that did touch black levels, but I remember not liking the looks of it. Way too much black crush.


----------



## unclepauly

My 960 looks amazing I just can't even fathom how much better it's gonna look when Chad calibrates my set in the next couple weeks. My girlfriend doesn't like how small it is but when you sit somewhat close what difference does it make? It facking obliterates everything I've ever owned including a nice sony RPCRT I've still got(which is awesome too). My SXRD is nice for it's sharpness(for example PC use is outstanding) but the most important quality to me is color/black level which the 960 takes a dump on other sets all day.




WHY COULDN'T THEY MAKE A 60 INCH VERSION OF THIS SET?!?!?!?!??!?!?!?!?!?

(lol rhetorical question)


----------



## Joseph Dubin

I had my 960 judding out about two feet off the wall so I would only be between five and six feet away from the screen depending upon my sitting position. Since we're having windows replaced tomorrow I moved it back to about a half foot off the wall so it's more like seven feet away. You know something, the picture is so great that size doesn't seem as important as it did a year ago.


----------



## chemist047

Hey everyone,

I'm new to the forum and have been reading tons of posts over the past couple of months and came to the conclusion that I have to get myself an SFP tube tv. I've looked on craigslist and have not much look getting an 34XBR960. So, if anyone is in Northern California and wants to sell their TV to a humble grad student, I'm definitely interested.


----------



## fogcity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Fizzboom* /forum/post/15286292
> 
> 
> From the service menu, you can make the vertical line convergence adjustments. Also, focus, landing adjustments and I think to a small degree geometry adjustments do effect horizontal line convergence.



What are the vertical line convergence adjustments called? I've gone through the service menu and can't find any.


I'm trying to correct some convergence problems, specifically in the left third of the screen where the red channel (gun) is shifted over a little bit to the left relative to the green and blue. As you proceed from the center of the screen to the left edge, the offset gets greater and greater. Not a serious problem but it is noticeable. Hoping that there are some service menu settings that would allow me to independently control the red channel.


Also, mention is made of FOCUS adjustments but i see none mentioned in the spreadsheet?


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fogcity* /forum/post/15840911
> 
> 
> What are the vertical line convergence adjustments called? I've gone through the service menu and can't find any.
> 
> 
> I'm trying to correct some convergence problems, specifically in the left third of the screen where the red channel (gun) is shifted over a little bit to the left relative to the green and blue. As you proceed from the center of the screen to the left edge, the offset gets greater and greater. Not a serious problem but it is noticeable. Hoping that there are some service menu settings that would allow me to independently control the red channel.....



Section 2-3.4 Dynamic Convergence Adjustments of this pdf may help. Only horizontal convergence can be adjusted in the service menu. I would suggest using the vertical lines in a crosshatch pattern when making these adjustments.


----------



## fogcity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/15841603
> 
> 
> Section 2-3.4 Dynamic Convergence Adjustments of this pdf may help. Only horizontal convergence can be adjusted in the service menu. I would suggest using the vertical lines in a crosshatch pattern when making these adjustments.



wow! thanks for the quick reply, and for the section of the service manual you sent.


have adjusted the convergence as best i can using the service menu. definitely better, definitely still not so good around the edges. may need a second pass.


wish vertical convergence didn't require monkeying around inside the tv...


one more question: any ways to adjust focus from service menus? text remains a bit blurry -- not so obvious on tv shows but when looking at output of my mac mini the filenames are blurry even in center of image where convergence isnt a problem. i know i shouldn't expect plasma tv clarity, but seems like it could be better.


----------



## fogcity

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but should the picture on my 960 extend to the absolute outside edges of the tube, to the point where it actually meets the outside frame?


Currently the image stops almost a half-inch short of where I thought it should. In other words, there is a half-inch black border around the edges of the picture (on all inputs, all sources). Is this normal?


----------



## wbrett

That's normal.


----------



## fogcity

To my eye, the blacks are a bit crushed on the 960. Anyone have an idea as to the items in the service menu that would let me adjust this?


I adjusted the SBRT (sub picture brightness) but it seems identical to the Brightness setting in the regular menu. Am I wrong?


----------



## unclepauly

Non calibrated 960's usually need the brightness up to around 38-40 get non crushed blacks.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fogcity* /forum/post/15849814
> 
> 
> To my eye, the blacks are a bit crushed on the 960. Anyone have an idea as to the items in the service menu that would let me adjust this?



You need to lower the gamma. Change all the gamma settings (Red, Green and Blue) from 0 to 1. That will give you the NTSC standard.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fogcity* /forum/post/15849814
> 
> 
> I adjusted the SBRT (sub picture brightness) but it seems identical to the Brightness setting in the regular menu. Am I wrong?



Yes, it's identical to the brightness setting.


----------



## fogcity

Thanks for the replies, everyone.


Another question: Is anyone else experiencing problems with the 960 "forgetting" how to tune in channels??


After letting the 960 perform the Auto Program channel setup, I end up with a lot of channels... way more than I've ever seen with previous televisions. This includes channels that I think aren't in my cable plan (I only pay for Comcast Basic Cable and have no CableCard but am now seeing MTV, Cartoon Network, Comedy channel, and a bunch of HD channels). So far, I'm not complaining...


HOWEVER!


The TV seems to "forget" how to tune in channels after being powered off for a few hours. All channels that were previously found by the Auto Program system and were working fine come up blank, with a "No Signal" message on the screen.


If I let the Auto Program run again, everything is back... until I power down for a few hours... then, POOF. gone. I can flip through the found channels but ALL of them say "no signal".


Anyone else see this before? What gives?


Any chance a CableCard would fix some of this? Reluctant to get one, as I think it would filter out the HD channels it seems I'm able to receive...


----------



## chadsdsmith

I had the same problem. After autoprogramming it again, the problem has not resurfaced in a week or so since.


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fogcity* /forum/post/15862809
> 
> 
> Thanks for the replies, everyone.
> 
> 
> Another question: Is anyone else experiencing problems with the 960 "forgetting" how to tune in channels??
> 
> 
> After letting the 960 perform the Auto Program channel setup, I end up with a lot of channels... way more than I've ever seen with previous televisions. This includes channels that I think aren't in my cable plan (I only pay for Comcast Basic Cable and have no CableCard but am now seeing MTV, Cartoon Network, Comedy channel, and a bunch of HD channels). So far, I'm not complaining...
> 
> 
> HOWEVER!
> 
> 
> The TV seems to "forget" how to tune in channels after being powered off for a few hours. All channels that were previously found by the Auto Program system and were working fine come up blank, with a "No Signal" message on the screen.
> 
> 
> If I let the Auto Program run again, everything is back... until I power down for a few hours... then, POOF. gone. I can flip through the found channels but ALL of them say "no signal".
> 
> 
> Anyone else see this before? What gives?
> 
> 
> Any chance a CableCard would fix some of this? Reluctant to get one, as I think it would filter out the HD channels it seems I'm able to receive...



If you have just started seeing this in the past 2 weeks, I would chalk it up to Comcast tinkering with encryption and not a problem with your 960.


My local Comcast franchise opened up everything on Feb. 10th and left it alone for a week. I got all the digital SD channels in the extended basic tier and all the national HD channels on my PCs' clear qam tuner card. Then on the 17th, they re-encrypted all the national HD channels and I lost them all. I think it is a pretty safe bet to assume all this encrypting and de-crypting is due to the old FCC analog shutoff date of Feb. 17th. Since it was delayed, they are using the extra time trying to tweak their signals in preparation for the new June 12th deadline. I woudn't count on any changes to the clear qam lineup being permanent until then.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15759772
> 
> 
> For the first time I was able to make some sort of Bluray vs. DVD comparision on the 960, albiet, an indirect way.
> 
> 
> This evening Encore-HD aired "Goldfinger" so I put on my newly remastered DVD copy, synchronized it with the HD-DVR and compared the two.
> 
> 
> Will swallow my pride and admit there was really no comparision. The picture on Encore-HD was indeed more colorful and sharper than my DVD with richer black levels and detail. Doubt I could have improved the DVD by re-adjusting the user settings since those have been properly set and am sure it would have made the disc appear artificial. And if the cable transmission looked great, no doubt the bluray itself would look even better.
> 
> 
> Remember when I wasn't so impressed with the Bluray demonstration I had seen? While of course monitors are never set properly in stores I now realize another reason has to be that it wasn't demonstrated on the 960.
> 
> 
> I'm still going to wait until the prices of Bluray players and discs drop and will only replace my very favorite DVDs (like the Bond collection, etc.). But in the meantime, throw the crow at me - I'll eat it since I've now seen the equivalent of Bluray on the 960. The HD picture just blew me away.



A little update.


Every so often I perform my own "system check" to assure none of my settings were accidently changed. So what did I find last night? My Panasonic DVD recorder's playback was in the "cinema" mode and had been feeding an enhanced picture into the 960 while the set's service and user settings were adjusted for 480p input via the "normal" mode.


Of course, this made a difference. While I still remember more detail, etc. when presented on Encore-HD and will not retract my earlier statement that the HD quality blew me away, my version of "Goldfinger" was more colorful, had deeper blacks and was much more sharper than the night I compared the two. The DVD was definately more impressive (like it was when I first viewed it) and while the HD broadcast was great, the difference was not night and day as was my impression when I first posted the above.


As another forum member pointed out, this still might not have been an accurate way to compare upconverted 480p DVDs to 1080i/p blurays.


----------



## fogcity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chadsdsmith* /forum/post/15864045
> 
> 
> I had the same problem. After autoprogramming it again, the problem has not resurfaced in a week or so since.



Hmm. I've reprogrammed it maybe 5 times now. Each time, same thing: remembers all the channels, can't tune any of them in.


If it was due to a weak signal, I'd imagine that reprogramming would not work at all, that it wouldn't find any channels... but it works every time.


This is a major problemo -- despite the AWESOME picture quality, this is first and foremost a TV, and it can't tune in tv stations.


----------



## fogcity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LongRufus* /forum/post/15867840
> 
> 
> If you have just started seeing this in the past 2 weeks, I would chalk it up to Comcast tinkering with encryption and not a problem with your 960.
> 
> 
> My local Comcast franchise opened up everything on Feb. 10th and left it alone for a week. I got all the digital SD channels in the extended basic tier and all the national HD channels on my PCs' clear qam tuner card. Then on the 17th, they re-encrypted all the national HD channels and I lost them all. I think it is a pretty safe bet to assume all this encrypting and de-crypting is due to the old FCC analog shutoff date of Feb. 17th. Since it was delayed, they are using the extra time trying to tweak their signals in preparation for the new June 12th deadline. I woudn't count on any changes to the clear qam lineup being permanent until then.



I'd like to think this was the case. But it's too coincidental that ALL stations give "no signal", and this is always the case after leaving the tv off for a few hours. If it was due to comcast monkeying with encryption, it would only affect the premium stations like HD or MTV or whatever. But ALL stations are messed up.


----------



## tlpmyd

ive had the 960 for a few years now and never messed with but now that i found this official thread im curious to know if there is anything i can do to make the picture better and how to do it? also did sony ever give any updates or firmware to this set? i have purchased a blue ray and played a new disc it does look great but not like it looks on my buddys 1080p 120hertz sammy. is there anything i can do to get the pic as close to his with the 960?


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tlpmyd* /forum/post/15885414
> 
> 
> ive had the 960 for a few years now and never messed with but now that i found this official thread im curious to know if there is anything i can do to make the picture better and how to do it? also did sony ever give any updates or firmware to this set? i have purchased a blue ray and played a new disc it does look great but not like it looks on my buddys 1080p 120hertz sammy. is there anything i can do to get the pic as close to his with the 960?




If you do a search of this thread for "settings" it will give you some basic adjustments you can make.


If you are technically inclined you can do a search for "service menu" and get info on more advanced adjustment. WARNING the service menu is not something to play around in, you need to know what you are doing. There is a Ken Tech thread with very good info on the service menu. Read the first 5 pages or so of it before going in the menu.


The basic settings in this thread are a very good starting point and will serve you well with a little tweaking for your room and lighting.


If you are squeamish about making adjustments you can hire a professional calibrator to do it for you.


----------



## S. Hiller




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tlpmyd* /forum/post/15885414
> 
> 
> ive had the 960 for a few years now and never messed with but now that i found this official thread im curious to know if there is anything i can do to make the picture better and how to do it? also did sony ever give any updates or firmware to this set? i have purchased a blue ray and played a new disc it does look great but not like it looks on my buddys 1080p 120hertz sammy. is there anything i can do to get the pic as close to his with the 960?



No.


The hyper-real video look on the Samsung is achieved with its 120 Hz processing and was created to address issues with motion resolution that your CRT does not have. Some like the effect those LCDs achieve, some do not, because they think it looks too fake and not like the original film...


----------



## TheOne&Only

Need help from all KD-34XBR960 owners out there!! We've had our Sony since late 2004. Occasionally, the set would not turn on when hitting the power button -- so we had to unplug it from the wall, wait 30 seconds, then plug it back in (per Sony Customer Support instructions).

Now, even that won't work! The TV blinks through its diagnostics (red blinks 15-20x), then shuts off. Sony repair said it was a known problem, and will cost $1200 to fix!!!

Anyone else have this problem, and how best to resolve??


----------



## fogcity

Is the service manual for the 960 available online?


----------



## high def mon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheOne&Only* /forum/post/15895047
> 
> 
> Need help from all KD-34XBR960 owners out there!! We've had our Sony since late 2004. Occasionally, the set would not turn on when hitting the power button -- so we had to unplug it from the wall, wait 30 seconds, then plug it back in (per Sony Customer Support instructions).
> 
> Now, even that won't work! The TV blinks through its diagnostics (red blinks 15-20x), then shuts off. Sony repair said it was a known problem, and will cost $1200 to fix!!!
> 
> Anyone else have this problem, and how best to resolve??



I think it it might be time for a pickup truck, Craigs list and a strong friend.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheOne&Only* /forum/post/15895047
> 
> 
> Need help from all KD-34XBR960 owners out there!! We've had our Sony since late 2004. Occasionally, the set would not turn on when hitting the power button -- so we had to unplug it from the wall, wait 30 seconds, then plug it back in (per Sony Customer Support instructions).
> 
> Now, even that won't work! The TV blinks through its diagnostics (red blinks 15-20x), then shuts off. Sony repair said it was a known problem, and will cost $1200 to fix!!!
> 
> Anyone else have this problem, and how best to resolve??



That does happen at times - a Sony service rep explained it's like a computer crash, however, I was told to wait five minutes - not 30 seconds. Have you tried it that long?


----------



## fogcity

My 960's STANDBY light blinks on startup before the picture is turned on. I've read this indicates a diagnostic message, but mine blinks ELEVEN (11) times and I can't find reference to what this could signify. Anyone?


----------



## jdre

My 32HS510 has blinked standby 11 times as it is getting going, sometimes a bit less, I wouldn't worry about it, unless it doesn't start up and blinks a repeating pattern like 6 quick blinks, pause 6 quick blinks.


----------



## fogcity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *snclawson* /forum/post/4433182
> 
> 
> Well, I've finally got an `old-timer' update on my set (built in July). This set had the tuner problem and developed the `pops' maybe two weeks after getting it that continually got more frequent.
> 
> 
> All the parts from Sony finally came in and the local repair guy came by this afternoon (no Sony factory repair in Utah). He bad both a new power board and a small surface mount resistor to replace. The repair took about 2 hours total, most of that was spent trying to find the board that Sony was talking about! It turned out that it was the bottom main board on the right (looking from behind the set). The guy did a great job swapping the resistor out, ony took about a minute. The thing was so tiny that you had to hold it with a small pair of tweezers. =)



I'd like to revive this old topic, as this forum should include a consensus on how common the "cold tuner" problem is and something definitive and specific about what it takes to fix it.


The "cold tuner" problem is where digital channels can only be tuned in when the 960 is "warmed up", i.e. after it's been on for 5 or 15 or 45 minutes. When first powered on after being off for a few hours, all (or most) digital channels show up blank with a "No Signal" message.


From what I've read online, the cause of this was the "Q BOX" (shown in the 960 service manual as a small box made of perforated metal, containing at least three boards whose names all start with "Q") was faulty on maybe 20% of all 960's made, and the fix is to simply replace it.


According to Sony, a replacement Q Box costs almost $500. Plus the labor to install it (2 hours), you're probably looking at $700 to fix an out-of-warranty 960?


The confusing part is that people have variously pointed to a "tuner card" or "tuner box" in addition to the Q Box as the source of the problem. And the above message mentions that a "power board" and resistor replacement were the fix for his set.


Any insight on this (including specific part numbers replaced) would be greatly appreciated. I'm hoping that some part other than the Q Box (i.e. a cheaper part) is the actual culprit.


----------



## hitman25

i had the blinking lights but I resolved it from unplugging it from my surge protector and plugging directly into the wall...I since got a monster power surge protector and i don't have anymore problems.


----------



## Slinky11

Just thought I would let everyone know I picked up a great black glass stand for the 960 at Circuit City yesterday. They had stacks of them and it was 70% off.







The max weight on the top shelf is about 250lbs. The model is Verge VTVSBLK42


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Slinky11* /forum/post/15943256
> 
> 
> Just thought I would let everyone know I picked up a great black glass stand for the 960 at Circuit City yesterday. They had stacks of them and it was 70% off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The max weight on the top shelf is about 250lbs. The model is Verge VTVSBLK42



Darn,


That looks like it was custom made for the 960.


----------



## unclepauly

I've got a black glass stand that looks almost exactly the same. I'll post a pic later. Got it at Walmart for $100.


Also dreamcast ftw.


----------



## david4455

I love this TV but the screen is too small for the room that I watch it in.


If I wanted to sell it what is it worth now?


I have had it since the summer of 2006 and it is in excellent condition.


Thanks.


----------



## unclepauly

Around $400 give or take depending on condition of set and how bad the person wants it.


----------



## hitman25

iS IT POSSIBLE TO JUST HOOK UP A SEPARATE SUBWOOFER TO THIS TV??

I BOUGHT THE "DAY THE EARTH STOOD STILL" AND THEY HAVE A AUDIO CHECK FOR YOUR SYSTEM AND MY SUBWOOFER (INSIDE THE TV) MADE NO NOICE OUT PUT ?


----------



## unclepauly

I guess it could be possible if you rewired the internal sound system but otherwise no. You need a stereo receiver, two speakers and a sub to get decent TV sound.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hitman25* /forum/post/15958818
> 
> 
> iS IT POSSIBLE TO JUST HOOK UP A SEPARATE SUBWOOFER TO THIS TV??
> 
> I BOUGHT THE "DAY THE EARTH STOOD STILL" AND THEY HAVE A AUDIO CHECK FOR YOUR SYSTEM AND MY SUBWOOFER (INSIDE THE TV) MADE NO NOICE OUT PUT ?




Because the audio check was for 5.1 and what you hear through the 960 is 2.0.


The 960's subwoofer is meant to provide richer bass through it's own speaker system, not special effects below 90 hz that would make the ground shake. As unclepauly said, you need an a/v receiver but I would suggest getting five speakers (two front, a center and two rears) plus a subwoofer to take advantage of the dvd's 5.1 audio. Have the optical output from the DVD player go directly to the receiver bypassing the 960 (two RCA cables can be hooked up to the set for times you don't feel like listening through the audio system).


----------



## Post Blue




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/15946192
> 
> 
> Also dreamcast ftw.



I was going to say the same thing.


That looks like a great stand, and I'd have tried to get one at CC if I hadn't gotten such a good deal on the black glass front one a while back.


----------



## truth123123




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/15420688
> 
> 
> Joseph is right. *The 960 does SD infinitely better than anything out there I've seen*. DVD's almost look HD to me. I've got a blu-ray connected and just watched a couple blu-ray movies and there's definite improvement. Mainly in detail and black level/ color fidelity and it looks better than any OTA I've seen.
> 
> 
> Maybe you're expecting the same temporal resolution that the olympics gave? Blu-ray movies mostly run at 24 fps and the olympics were 60 fps I think. There are some concert blu-rays that run at 60 fps if you could take a look at one of those maybe that's what you were looking for.
> 
> 
> My only suggestion would be to get your TV calibrated(overscan reduction, geometry, convergence plus the usual stuff) or maybe run through your blu-ray settings a couple more times. I don't know, there's a noticeable difference on my set and I own a Sony SXRD 60A3000 for comparison.




Is the bold true?


I read in another thread the 960 is good for HD content(reason is the sfp tube),etc but the xbr800 is better for SD?


I ask because an xbr800 is being sold in my area. He wants potential buyers to make an offer.


What will be fair? I don't want to over pay and i don't want to low ball.


I am looking for a crt that can produce good picture in SD....xbr800 or xbr 960?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *truth123123* /forum/post/15981456
> 
> 
> Is the bold true?
> 
> 
> I read in another thread the 960 is good for HD content(reason is the sfp tube),etc but the xbr800 is better for SD?
> 
> 
> I ask because an xbr800 is being sold in my area. He wants potential buyers to make an offer.
> 
> 
> What will be fair? I don't want to over pay and i don't want to low ball.
> 
> 
> I am looking for a crt that can produce good picture in SD....xbr800 or xbr 960?



All HD sets bring out the weaknesses of standard definition so to get a second set just for SD content IMHO wouldn't be worth it. And realize since the xbr 800 is a 40 inch 4x3 CRT, the larger screen (plus the advanced features similiar to the 960) will definately bring out the worst associated with standard definition broadcast resolution (different from DVD).


----------



## unclepauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *truth123123* /forum/post/15981456
> 
> 
> Is the bold true?
> 
> 
> I read in another thread the 960 is good for HD content(reason is the sfp tube),etc but the xbr800 is better for SD?
> 
> 
> I ask because an xbr800 is being sold in my area. He wants potential buyers to make an offer.
> 
> 
> What will be fair? I don't want to over pay and i don't want to low ball.
> 
> 
> I am looking for a crt that can produce good picture in SD....xbr800 or xbr 960?



Yes it's true because I've never seen an xbr800 in person.







Maybe if I'd seen one that set would be the best I've ever seen.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15982321
> 
> 
> And realize since the xbr 800 is a 40 inch 4x3 CRT



This requires clarification.


The 34XBR800 is a 34" 16x9 set. First one of the Sony 34" HD family. It has DVI instead of HDMI, but otherwise is a good example of the 960 heritage.


There is also a 40XBR800 which is a 40" 4:3 set.


I assume the OP is speaking of the 34XBR800, the HD 16x9 version.


Actually, my cousin owns a 34XBR800 and it is excellent.


But given a choice between 800 and 960, I'd certainly go for the 960.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/15983352
> 
> 
> This requires clarification.
> 
> 
> The 34XBR800 is a 34" 16x9 set. First one of the Sony 34" HD family. It has DVI instead of HDMI, but otherwise is a good example of the 960 heritage.
> 
> 
> There is also a 40XBR800 which is a 40" 4:3 set.
> 
> 
> I assume the OP is speaking of the 34XBR800, the HD 16x9 version.
> 
> 
> Actually, my cousin owns a 34XBR800 and it is excellent.
> 
> 
> But given a choice between 800 and 960, I'd certainly go for the 960.



Would be interesting to know which model Truth123123 really wanted, since it was only indicated that it was an XBR800.


----------



## Ennui

I still have and am using a Sony KV-32XBR100 that I bought new in 1997 for $3,000. In my opinion, this is the best 4:3 TV made. It has 800 lines of horizontal resolution and produces a fine picture. This is the only TV with a separate "feature box" that I have seen. I had to replace the feature box about two years ago as the cable input on the original went away. I bought it on Ebay. I used my VCR tuner for a while before I found one. Here is Sony's description of it:

http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/mod...mdl=KV32XBR100 


I think it is better than my 960 for 4:3 pictures but not by much.


FYI.


----------



## truth123123




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15983659
> 
> 
> Would be interesting to know which model Truth123123 really wanted, since it was only indicated that it was an XBR800.



I was talking about the 34xbr800.


Ebay had an 40xbr800 without a stand...they stated it was in great condition... for $279.95. Good deal?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *truth123123* /forum/post/15994194
> 
> 
> I was talking about the 34xbr800.
> 
> 
> Ebay had an 40xbr800 without a stand...they stated it was in great condition... for $279.95. Good deal?



That's a great price, however, I'd want to see it first since one doesn't really know how much use and abuse it has really seen (be leary of sellers no matter what they say) and if it would be packed properly enough for protection during delivery. Even if the seller gives some sort of guarantee, imagine the cost of return shipping and insurance?


The 40xbr800 actually provides a larger 16x9 picture than the 34 inch crt models.


----------



## DJF(NJ)




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ennui* /forum/post/15989392
> 
> 
> I still have and am using a Sony KV-32XBR100 that I bought new in 1997 for $3,000. In my opinion, this is the best 4:3 TV made. It has 800 lines of horizontal resolution and produces a fine picture. This is the only TV with a separate "feature box" that I have seen. I had to replace the feature box about two years ago as the cable input on the original went away. I bought it on Ebay. I used my VCR tuner for a while before I found one. Here is Sony's description of it:
> 
> http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/mod...mdl=KV32XBR100
> 
> 
> I think it is better than my 960 for 4:3 pictures but not by much.
> 
> 
> FYI.



That thing probably handles standard-def video games very well. Does it have component output?


----------



## Ennui

I have never used it with any video games...if you look at the link on Sony's site and select "Manuals-Specs", you will see the inputs listed.


----------



## cerino2000

If anyone in central north carolina has a kd-34xbr960 that they want to sell, by all means look me up. I am wanting to find one to put in my bedroom. I live north of Charlotte, NC. Have cash will travel if need.


Thanks!


----------



## truth123123




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15995201
> 
> 
> That's a great price, however, I'd want to see it first since one doesn't really know how much use and abuse it has really seen (be leary of sellers no matter what they say) and if it would be packed properly enough for protection during delivery. Even if the seller gives some sort of guarantee, imagine the cost of return shipping and insurance?
> 
> 
> The 40xbr800 actually provides a larger 16x9 picture than the 34 inch crt models.



It was for pick up only.


----------



## azideam

Bought a clean kd-34xbr960 from a local Craigslist seller on Monday for $300. No 1080i banding issues like I'd read about on the 910 and 800 sets. The picture is better than I imagined it would be! SPF tubes all the way! Very pleased with this set. Glad that I held out and bought a 960.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *azideam* /forum/post/16019460
> 
> 
> Bought a clean kd-34xbr960 from a local Craigslist seller on Monday for $300. No 1080i banding issues like I'd read about on the 910 and 800 sets. The picture is better than I imagined it would be! SPF tubes all the way! Very pleased with this set. Glad that I held out and bought a 960.



FOr $300 I'd be more than just "very pleased". Congrats!


----------



## azideam

OK, how about I'm ecstatic with this set! That would be more accurate.


Thank you to everyone on this board who contributes and shares their opinions, experiences, and knowledge on this plasma-killer. SFP tube!!!


----------



## unclepauly

Now just get it calibrated and you'll have an unholy beast of a screen there.


----------



## azideam

Going to check with a local ISF tech on a calibration. I've done all I can do with Joe Kane's DVD. What is a fair charge for ISF cal in your opinion?


----------



## unclepauly

Depends on how much they are willing to do. ChadB calibrates all inputs for color and grayscale, does an overscan reduction, convergence, will open the cabinet for magnet work, etc for $375. I would weigh the isf's calibration against that measure. If they aren't willing to do that much then you should scale the payment accordingly.


----------



## azideam

Thanks for the info. That will give me a reference point to go by.


----------



## Shadowknight

I would go with ChadB if you're willing to wait for him to come to your area; EXCELLENT ISF tech; by far the best of the 3 techs I have hired. He did a full calibration on my newest 960 in the bedroom, and made adjustments to the geometry and convergence to the 960 in my bedroom; there are techs on this board who have never used magnets to correct the geometric distortion in this set, so if you're getting a set calibrated, why not get someone who's the best?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *azideam* /forum/post/16022101
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info. That will give me a reference point to go by.



You'll actually be paying more for the callibration than you did the set. No more than $675 for a 960 that includes professional callibration -- proves Samta Clause doesn't work just in December.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Had to unplug the 960 for five minutes since no picture and sound came on. Not worried and, in retrospect, having to replug it might have been a silver lining in disguise. The past two instances when this happened the picture seemed a slight bit more vibrant than the night before.


Would it be good practice unplugging the set for five minutes every month or so?


----------



## jdre

You might have had a power "glitch". Can't hurt, TV is like a computer inside. If it gets frequent, could be the MCZ3001D ICs are due for replacement, watch for 6 blinks of Standby light after it doesn't turn on.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jdre* /forum/post/16044445
> 
> 
> You might have had a power "glitch". Can't hurt, TV is like a computer inside. If it gets frequent, could be the MCZ3001D ICs are due for replacement, watch for 6 blinks of Standby light after it doesn't turn on.



Not frequent - last time was maybe three months ago (unless that is considered frequent).


----------



## Mathesar

Is there any service menu adjustments that can improve black crush, Im seeing a ton of it on my XBR960 or perhaps im just used to the picture on my Kuro plasma?


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/16048094
> 
> 
> Is there any service menu adjustments that can improve black crush, Im seeing a ton of it on my XBR960 or perhaps im just used to the picture on my Kuro plasma?



Simple, brightness set too low!


----------



## unclepauly

I lose the crush around 38 brightness.


----------



## TomGreen321




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/16048094
> 
> 
> Is there any service menu adjustments that can improve black crush, Im seeing a ton of it on my XBR960 or perhaps im just used to the picture on my Kuro plasma?



Are you serious with this post? come on now.


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TomGreen321* /forum/post/16050570
> 
> 
> Are you serious with this post? come on now.



Oops guess I didn't elaborate enough, the problem is in order to eliminate black crush I have to set the Brightness to the point of looking slightly washed out. (Video 7 / HDMI)


Never mind tho I believe its just the way this TV is I just hadnt used it in months and got used to the plasma's handling of shadow details.(The plasma has Gamma adjustments in the user menu which really help tweak the picture for this depending on source) I recently got a 2nd Xbox 360 and set it up on the XBR960.


Thanks anyhow!


----------



## GlenC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/16051445
> 
> 
> Oops guess I didn't elaborate enough, the problem is in order to eliminate black crush I have to set the Brightness to the point of looking slightly washed out. (Video 7 / HDMI)
> 
> 
> Never mind tho I believe its just the way this TV is I just hadnt used it in months and got used to the plasma's handling of shadow details.(The plasma has Gamma adjustments in the user menu which really help tweak the picture for this depending on source) I recently got a 2nd Xbox 360 and set it up on the XBR960.
> 
> 
> Thanks anyhow!



Get them both properly calibrated


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/16051445
> 
> 
> Oops guess I didn't elaborate enough, the problem is in order to eliminate black crush I have to set the Brightness to the point of looking slightly washed out. (Video 7 / HDMI)
> 
> 
> Never mind tho I believe its just the way this TV is I just hadnt used it in months and got used to the plasma's handling of shadow details.(The plasma has Gamma adjustments in the user menu which really help tweak the picture for this depending on source) I recently got a 2nd Xbox 360 and set it up on the XBR960.
> 
> 
> Thanks anyhow!



As I recommended, you need to adjust the gamma settings from all 0s to all 1s in the service menu. That will lower the gamma and give you the proper NTSC gamma settings. This should eliminate the need to raise the brightness to where the image is washed out in order to get proper shadow detail.


You should at least try it as it takes minimal effort to change the settings.


----------



## dmaxben

hi everyone... So I initially bought a broken XBR960, figuring it was the little IC's on the DZ-board. Got it for basically free. Turned out it wasnt actually those IC's, or I messed something else up. I didnt want to keep messing with it because I really needed a working TV...so I looked on craigs list and just picked up a flawless XBR960 with the custom "proper" XBR2 stand and glass shelf for..........250!










I have a really cheap 20 dollar DVD player hooked up to it now, but im currently looking around for a nice blu-ray player that also upconverts DVD's and plays DIVX. My onkyo receiver does HDMI switching and stuff so Im going to hook up both the blu-ray and my PC up to the HDMI input.


But anyways ill shut up now and get to my question. I have never seen a picture so beautiful, man I know why Im still stuck on using CRT's...nothing "thin" today can touch the SFP tube in my opinion.


I have it hooked up to the basic analog cable in my room at school, but when I try to tune channels it just says "no signal". I tried hooking the cable up to both the VHF/UHF and cable coax inputs on the TV, neither worked. BUT what is strange is if I do twin-view or the "guide/favorites preview", it tunes in the channel (only one at a time, the other side of the twin view is 'no signal') perfectly fine and the picture looks great.


So what im thinking is the tuner in the TV is being picky and is setup to "not display anything unless the signal strength is over a certain dB". I know my onkyo surround receiver is like that on FM too...unless the FM station comes in clear and in stereo, nothing comes out of the speakers. Im sure the cable signal at my school is junk, and this TV being so advanced is just saying "what is this garbage are you feeding me with".


Its not like any other TV where if you dont hook up any cable or anything, you turn it on and just get static/snow/white noise. It just says "no signal" and blocks it out.


Yes I did the auto-detect and let it do its thing forever, and it found like 3 or 4 digital channels (113.424882 and crazy stuff like that) that came in crystal clear, but If I remember correctly it didnt find any analog channels....


is there some other setting that Im completely missing in the menu that disables the 'signal strength cutout'?? Or something in the service menu I can tweak??? Right now when I want to watch cable I just keep it on twin-view, or watch DVD's.










thanks everyone...


ben


----------



## gmarceau

What is the actual gamma setting that gets a 2.2 in the service menu? I remember Ken Tech said that adjusting GAMR,G,B to 3 would get close to 2.2


Then I'm hearing that those three settings to 1 will achieve it.


Also, the colors get more pop when BLK is changed to 2, but 3 begins to definitely crush blacks.


Then again, if BLK is changed, then GAMM settings would have to be adjusted accordingly, right? GAMM set at 2 changes GAMS,R,G,B to 8,6,6,and 6. I don't know what sort of gamma setting this is.


This seems to be my last sort of issue with the tv. I'm okay with the slight issues with geometry, I've got pretty darn good color temperature, but I really want to get black levels below Kuro, as close to 0.0 idle luminance as possible, although I don't think this tv can do it.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gmarceau* /forum/post/16110824
> 
> 
> What is the actual gamma setting that gets a 2.2 in the service menu? I remember Ken Tech said that adjusting GAMR,G,B to 3 would get close to 2.2
> 
> 
> Then I'm hearing that those three settings to 1 will achieve it.
> 
> 
> Also, the colors get more pop when BLK is changed to 2, but 3 begins to definitely crush blacks.
> 
> 
> Then again, if BLK is changed, then GAMM settings would have to be adjusted accordingly, right? GAMM set at 2 changes GAMS,R,G,B to 8,6,6,and 6. I don't know what sort of gamma setting this is.
> 
> 
> This seems to be my last sort of issue with the tv. I'm okay with the slight issues with geometry, I've got pretty darn good color temperature, but I really want to get black levels below Kuro, as close to 0.0 idle luminance as possible, although I don't think this tv can do it.



According to Chad B., the correct NTSC setting is usually all 1s for gamma. I don't think BLK is a gamma related adjustment but black level. Whatever settings you use, they should all be the same for GAMR, GAMG, GAMB. I would leave GAMS at 0. Last time I read the thread, no one knew what GAMS actually adjusts. I don't see any changes on my set from adjusting it. The GAMM settings are just a way of preseting several different gamma settings for GAMR, G & B, so it doesn't really matter.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gmarceau* /forum/post/16110824
> 
> 
> Then again, if BLK is changed, then GAMM settings would have to be adjusted accordingly, right?



No. You should not have adjust black level after changing gamma. If you do lower the gamma a little, you'll probably have to bring up color saturation a notch or two. Other than that, you shouldn't have to make any other adjustments generally (*unless you are professionally calibrating because decreasing the gamma settings isn't perfectly linear on these analog sets and greyscale would have to be touched up).


----------



## fogcity

Loving the PQ on my 960, but after tweaking all the CP settings i can find it still seems like it's crushing blacks. Anything below 10% grey seems to be pulled down into solid black. I think there's a loss of detail in the lowest shades. Kind of like there's too much contrast in that area.


I can raise the level of blacks, but that just makes ALL the blacks, including what seems to be true black (0% white), whiter.


I can raise the gamma, but that just seems to affect the mid-tones and brighter areas.


Is there an adjustment I'm missing?


----------



## gmarceau

I finally looked back at the Sony Service Codes thread and realized from Kentech's post that using UBOF and UCOF can adjust black and color saturation. I had to lower the UBOF to 0 and that gave me inky blacks without using BLK. UCOF to 1 just slightly increased saturation. Can't believe I missed this.


I know what you mean about slight shadow detail loss. I don't think you're crushing blacks, this might still be a gamma issue that needs to be touched on. Then again, I don't know what your black level settings are.


What do you have SBRT and the brightness slider on the menu set at? Did you play around with BLK or UBOF settings to adjust black further. What do you have GAMM settings at? Also, what mode are you in? Pro mode is supposed to set gamma at 2.4 to start. Changing the GAMR,G,B up can give a nice 2.2 gamma. Although, I'm really not sure that the settings are 1 on all 3 of them. I think 2 or 3 gets closer to that 2.2 gamma.


----------



## fogcity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gmarceau* /forum/post/16127082
> 
> 
> I finally looked back at the Sony Service Codes thread and realized from Kentech's post that using UBOF and UCOF can adjust black and color saturation. I had to lower the UBOF to 0 and that gave me inky blacks without using BLK. UCOF to 1 just slightly increased saturation. Can't believe I missed this.
> 
> 
> I know what you mean about slight shadow detail loss. I don't think you're crushing blacks, this might still be a gamma issue that needs to be touched on. Then again, I don't know what your black level settings are.
> 
> 
> What do you have SBRT and the brightness slider on the menu set at? Did you play around with BLK or UBOF settings to adjust black further. What do you have GAMM settings at? Also, what mode are you in? Pro mode is supposed to set gamma at 2.4 to start. Changing the GAMR,G,B up can give a nice 2.2 gamma. Although, I'm really not sure that the settings are 1 on all 3 of them. I think 2 or 3 gets closer to that 2.2 gamma.



my relevant settings:

PRO Mode

UBOF = 1

UCOF = 0

SBRT = 28

brightness usually just above nominal (center) setting

BLK = 0

GAMM = 0

GAMS = 0

GAMR = 1

GAMG = 1

GAMB = 1


ive tried various settings of all these BUT have never changed ubof, ucof... will try this later.


note that i like the contrast in the brighter tones, am not looking to soften out the whole picture by changing the center point of the gamma as some of these settings and modes want to. just trying to bring up the darkest colors without turning true black into grey. photoshop users know how to do this using either the curves or the levels dialogs... it is possible.


----------



## joenj07087

ok I have one of these Sony XBR960 I bought it in 2004, since this morning while it turns on, no image appears on the screen the screen is totally black...does this mean this tv has it?..is this it?...5 years and PUFF! I just don't want to waste my time now looking for a authorized dealer in northen Nj for this thing that btw weights a ton....do you guys think it could be somethign worth fixing(not too expensive)?..or should I call it a day..??...it worked fine till today..since 2004 nov...!


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joenj07087* /forum/post/16140097
> 
> 
> ok I have one of these Sony XBR960 I bought it in 2004, since this morning while it turns on, no image appears on the screen the screen is totally black...does this mean this tv has it?..is this it?...5 years and PUFF! I just don't want to waste my time now looking for a authorized dealer in northen Nj for this thing that btw weights a ton....do you guys think it could be somethign worth fixing(not too expensive)?..or should I call it a day..??...it worked fine till today..since 2004 nov...!



Try unplugging it first for a few minutes. Sometimes that alone can fix it. If after plugging it back in and still doesn't work, try unplugging it for at least 24 hours. If after that it still doesn't work, it needs repair. Maybe count the number of red flashes and search what that indicates as the problem.


----------



## jamesflames

The Kuro thread has pictures thread of the image quality they get from their sets. I think it'd be pretty cool if we did the same thing. I tried to mimic the settings one of their posters used for their camera but my results were far from stellar, otherwise I'd start the thread. Anyone else like the idea?


----------



## wbrett

I bought a 5020 a couple of weeks ago so I can argue with myself which is better.


----------



## Slinky11

Just thought I would put this up here for anyone a little closer (Sacramento). Might as well get it for the stand and a parts TV!

http://sacramento.craigslist.org/ele/1128738987.html 


Edit:... sorry this looks like a 970(?) Still a good deal lol


----------



## Ennui

Cable cards are problematic...I have Cox and the techs came several times with several cards before they got it to work. Now have Tivo with an "M" card and has been OK recently.


----------



## RalphArch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ennui* /forum/post/16311191
> 
> 
> Cable cards are problematic...I have Cox and the techs came several times with several cards before they got it to work. Now have Tivo with an "M" card and has been OK recently.



Sorry Ennui - I deleted mypost when technician came back and fixed problem. Turns out that the card was just not authorized back at Comcast's end (actually was authorized and they turned it off after tech left not realizing I had two cable cards); and my 36kd955xs has a different menu with cable card in than the xbr960 has (which has cable card grayed out with an installed and set up card; versus other tv which has ability to reset the card)


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wbrett* /forum/post/16310311
> 
> 
> I bought a 5020 a couple of weeks ago so I can argue with myself which is better.



Please let us know the result of your debate, not accounting for the difference in picture size.


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wbrett* /forum/post/16310311
> 
> 
> I bought a 5020 a couple of weeks ago so I can argue with myself which is better.



Do what I did and setup both TVs side by side, This made it easy for me (and everyone else that saw it) prefer my Kuro 5080 over XBR960.


Mainly due to the much brighter output, crisper / sharper details and corner to corner focus, very very close black level performance and for some reason the shadow details on the plasma were noticeably better , I was able to help this by boosting the brightness setting on the CRT although the black levels weren't quite so 'black' at this point (I'm assuming service menu adjustments might be a more proper approach here).


But the final nail in the coffin was its much bigger screen size which alone makes gaming & watching movies a better experience.


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/16313977
> 
> 
> Do what I did and setup both TVs side by side, This made it easy for me (and everyone else that saw it) prefer my Kuro 5080 over XBR960.
> 
> 
> Mainly due to the much brighter output, crisper / sharper details and corner to corner focus, very very close black level performance and for some reason the shadow details on the plasma were noticeably better , I was able to help this by boosting the brightness setting on the CRT although the black levels weren't quite so 'black' at this point (I'm assuming service menu adjustments might be a more proper approach here).
> 
> 
> But the final nail in the coffin was its much bigger screen size which alone makes gaming & watching movies a better experience.



Clearly both sets were not properly calibrated.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/16313977
> 
> 
> Do what I did and setup both TVs side by side, This made it easy for me (and everyone else that saw it) prefer my Kuro 5080 over XBR960.
> 
> 
> Mainly due to the much brighter output, crisper / sharper details and corner to corner focus, very very close black level performance and for some reason the shadow details on the plasma were noticeably better , I was able to help this by boosting the brightness setting on the CRT although the black levels weren't quite so 'black' at this point (I'm assuming service menu adjustments might be a more proper approach here).
> 
> 
> But the final nail in the coffin was its much bigger screen size which alone makes gaming & watching movies a better experience.



It's a fact the Kuro 5080 is a mighty set, a Royles Royce, but agree with Beachcomer that 960 service adjustments might be required for after many years, the 960 still remains a member of that elite Royles Royce class of HD sets as well. Plasma is touted by Crutchfield as being the "closest" to a CRT in performance so there should be no problem with shadow detail, brightness and sharpness to make the Kuro noticably better in comparision to the 960 (at most,they would be equal).


Don't forget picture quality is different from screen size preference. I wouldn't mind having something larger than 34" but not at the trade off of a poorer picture (please know I'm not referring to your Kuro 5080 but to most other sets instead).


Enjoy both!


----------



## RalphArch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/16318003
> 
> 
> It's a fact the Kuro 5080 is a mighty set, a Royles Royce, but agree with Beachcomer that 960 service adjustments might be required for after many years, the 960 still remains a member of that elite Royles Royce class of HD sets as well. Plasma is touted by Crutchfield as being the "closest" to a CRT in performance so there should be no problem with shadow detail, brightness and sharpness to make the Kuro noticably better in comparision to the 960 (at most,they would be equal).
> 
> 
> Don't forget picture quality is different from screen size preference. I wouldn't mind having something larger than 34" but not at the trade off of a poorer picture (please know I'm not referring to your Kuro 5080 but to most other sets instead).
> 
> 
> Enjoy both!



To sort of side with Mathesar's viewpoint somewhat; I think what others should also consider it that picture quality is also independent of those service menu adjustment for most of us; calibration by a professional is economically not going to happen for most of us (I have three HD crts direct views and a CRT fp - can you imagine my calibration costs). I have not changed anything in the service menu for either my 960 nor my 36kd955xs.


So when he compares the picture of his 960 to his Kuro; and notes what happens with his brightness to bring out shadow detail; that's the same for many of us including me. And it remains a valid way to compare as many of us aren't going to spend the time or effort to get it better. If we are spending money perhaps it is better to go with something like a Kuro.


----------



## unclepauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RalphArch* /forum/post/16318115
> 
> 
> To sort of side with Mathesar's viewpoint somewhat; I think what others should also consider it that picture quality is also independent of those service menu adjustment for most of us; calibration by a professional is economically not going to happen for most of us (I have three HD crts direct views and a CRT fp - can you imagine my calibration costs). I have not changed anything in the service menu for either my 960 nor my 36kd955xs.
> 
> 
> So when he compares the picture of his 960 to his Kuro; and notes what happens with his brightness to bring out shadow detail; that's the same for many of us including me. And it remains a valid way to compare as many of us aren't going to spend the time or effort to get it better. If we are spending money perhaps it is better to go with something like a Kuro.



That's crazy talk, poppycock, horsehockey even.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RalphArch* /forum/post/16318115
> 
> 
> To sort of side with Mathesar's viewpoint somewhat; I think what others should also consider it that picture quality is also independent of those service menu adjustment for most of us; calibration by a professional is economically not going to happen for most of us (I have three HD crts direct views and a CRT fp - can you imagine my calibration costs). I have not changed anything in the service menu for either my 960 nor my 36kd955xs.
> 
> 
> So when he compares the picture of his 960 to his Kuro; and notes what happens with his brightness to bring out shadow detail; that's the same for many of us including me. And it remains a valid way to compare as many of us aren't going to spend the time or effort to get it better. If we are spending money perhaps it is better to go with something like a Kuro.




The only true way to compare sets are for both to be callibrated correctly. Even a Royles Royce not properly maintained can perform down to the level of my Saturn. And you are right, many owners don't have the expertise to do it in some fashion, money to spend on hiring a professional, or even aware that most sets (CRT, Plasma, LCD, etc.) often are not callibrated properly by the factory. Who knows, even Mathesar's Kuro might look even better (not suggesting, of course, that it doesn't look great already).


----------



## RalphArch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/16319190
> 
> 
> The only true way to compare sets are for both to be callibrated correctly.



That is just not correct. You can do a true comparison between stock displays - and it will be valid for those stock machines considering those conditions. That was my point.


I agree that you could get different results under different conditions; but its not a minor point; most viewers have uncalibrated/non-service menu situations, even those that frequent these fora.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RalphArch* /forum/post/16319396
> 
> 
> That is just not correct. You can do a true comparison between stock displays - and it will be valid for those stock machines considering those conditions. That was my point.
> 
> 
> I agree that you could get different results under different conditions; but its not a minor point; most viewers have uncalibrated/non-service menu situations, even those that frequent these fora.



But what if a superior set is callibrated poorly and displayed next to a so-so set callibrated much better? And what about incorrect user adjustments? If the brightness, picture, color, tint and sharpness controls on one are improperly set it's picture can appear more impressive over the other but actually be artificial and un-natural (a trick we all know stores use all the time). Either of the above gives one set an advantage over the other as far as comparisions are considered.


When it comes to comparisions, units have to be adjusted at least close enough to optimum performance to truly determine how one stands up to the other. Same holds true for the set ultimately chosen by the buyer so he or she can get the most of their new purchase.


Again, this is not about the 960 versus the Kuro but rather about principles to be considered when making comparisions in general.


----------



## Mathesar

I adjusted them the closest I could using user menu settings, the Kuro has a slight advantage here being it has user Gamma adjustments.


I think one of the biggest downers for the CRT was how much darker/dimmer it was in comparison (or its lack of contrast "punch") which affected many scenes during the comparison, especially cartoon / Pixar movies and this was with the Plasma set on the "Movie" video mode (Not the torch modes such as Dynamic or Optimal)


Don't get me wrong I still think the CRT looks great and I still own it, I just prefer the Kuro overall .. I hope thats not a crime lol.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/16320728
> 
> 
> I adjusted them the closest I could using user menu settings, the Kuro has a slight advantage here being it has user Gamma adjustments.
> 
> 
> I think one of the biggest downers for the CRT was how much darker/dimmer it was in comparison (or its lack of contrast "punch") which affected many scenes during the comparison, especially cartoon / Pixar movies and this was with the Plasma set on the "Movie" video mode (Not the torch modes such as Dynamic or Optimal)
> 
> 
> Don't get me wrong I still think the CRT looks great and I still own it, I just prefer the Kuro overall .. I hope thats not a crime lol.



The only crime you're guilty of is owning both and making the rest of us jealous!


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jamesflames* /forum/post/16307166
> 
> 
> The Kuro thread has pictures thread of the image quality they get from their sets. I think it'd be pretty cool if we did the same thing. I tried to mimic the settings one of their posters used for their camera but my results were far from stellar, otherwise I'd start the thread. Anyone else like the idea?



Ive got some pics but doesnt look like many others will contribute ,judging from lack of responses lol.


----------



## DSperber

Just in passing...


An A/V equipment upgrade this past weekend included the implementation of a Yamaha RX-V863 receiver. It was primarily required to provide discrete analog audio preamp outputs to feed my newly acquired SVS "magic headphone" box. The SVS box eliminates my Pioneer DIR-SE1000C Dolby Headphone processor that I've been listening through for a number of years now (since I don't have 5.1 loudspeakers for my HDTV).


But in the process of figuring out what I needed to put in which hole of my equipment rack, I also eliminated the Zektor HDS4 component video switch I'd been using for many many years (going back to my original Sampo HDTV). This component had also served as my audio switcher.


Well naturally, the Yamaha receiver serves as both an audio and video switcher... for digital and analog audio, as well as digital and analog video (including HDMI and component video for HDTV).


As part of my experimentation I decided to try HDMI from my Moto DCH-3416 DVR. And I have to say, I now believe the picture on the XBR960 to be superior to the component video picture I've been watching (through the Zektor) for five years now. I'd previously convinced myself that there was no visible difference (to me) between the two options, and so I'd been using component video because I had to use the Zektor.


Well whether it's that the Yamaha HDMI switcher is excellent and its component video switcher is maybe not quite so excellent, or whether I just never viewed quite as much HDTV intensively and via HDMI as I did this weekend while playing with my new receiver, I don't know the explanation. But I now feel strongly that my HDMI picture is superior to the component video picture.


It appears a bit sharper, more vibrant, slightly better colors, etc. And I've double-checked my user/service menu settings but can't quite get the component video to look quite as good as the HDMI result, even with some fine-tuning micro-tweaks.


Now this is not a dramatic difference to be sure, but I now prefer the HDMI look. So that's how I'm going to watch HDTV from now on.



On a separate note, I'm visiting my nephew in Chicago in June. He's just bought a new house and to "celebrate" he's also decided to upgrade from his Sharp Aquos which he purchased a few years back to a Kuro 60" Pro-151FD! He got a fantastic price on it (since Pioneer is exiting the business and the dealer was essentially "giving them away").


Coincidentally, he's also buying a Yamaha receiver (better than mine) to go with it. And he's also acquired a BluRay player and the "Wall-e" disc for 1080p demonstration.


I can't wait to see it, although I obviously will not be able to side-by-side compare it to my XBR960.


----------



## TomGreen321




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/16320728
> 
> 
> I adjusted them the closest I could using user menu settings, the Kuro has a slight advantage here being it has user Gamma adjustments.
> 
> 
> I think one of the biggest downers for the CRT was how much darker/dimmer it was in comparison (or its lack of contrast "punch") which affected many scenes during the comparison, especially cartoon / Pixar movies and this was with the Plasma set on the "Movie" video mode (Not the torch modes such as Dynamic or Optimal)
> 
> 
> Don't get me wrong I still think the CRT looks great and I still own it, I just prefer the Kuro overall .. I hope thats not a crime lol.



Keep in mind that the SFP tubes are noticable dimmer then other CRT's.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/16354685
> 
> 
> I have to say, I now believe the picture on the XBR960 to be superior to the component video picture I've been watching (through the Zektor) for five years now. I'd previously convinced myself that there was no visible difference (to me) between the two options, and so I'd been using component video because I had to use the Zektor.
> 
> 
> Well whether it's that the Yamaha HDMI switcher is excellent and its component video switcher is maybe not quite so excellent, or whether I just never viewed quite as much HDTV intensively and via HDMI as I did this weekend while playing with my new receiver, I don't know the explanation. But I now feel strongly that my HDMI picture is superior to the component video picture.
> 
> 
> It appears a bit sharper, more vibrant, slightly better colors, etc. And I've double-checked my user/service menu settings but can't quite get the component video to look quite as good as the HDMI result, even with some fine-tuning micro-tweaks.
> 
> 
> Now this is not a dramatic difference to be sure, but I now prefer the HDMI look. So that's how I'm going to watch HDTV from now on.



I also came to the same conclusion. A weaker black-level causes the component picture to lack the "punch" of HDMI.


However, differences in picture quality might be due to sources rather than inputs. In a local cable forum, many feel component works better with Scientific Atlantic HD boxes. At first, I felt the same but when upgrading to the SA HD-DVR, I found there definately was.


It's my belief that some sources and monitors aren't as good as others and therefore component might be the equal of HDMI. However, when it comes to the 960 with a HD input of excellent quality, HDMI is definate the superior.


----------



## bharani

Hi all,

I see a few who are looking to buy a 960. I am trying to sell mine that I bought in Dec 2004. Very sparingly used and in excellent condition. I live in McKinney, TX (suburb of Dallas) and I think $400 is a good price. Any buyers out there?


Thanks

Bharani


----------



## Polarican

I feel very fortunate to pick up 2 KD34XBR960's this month. I brought the 2nd one home yesterday. PQ is awesome and both sets are in mint condition! I was originally looking for a KD-36XS955 for the 2nd set, but ran across a great deal on the 2nd 960 and just went for it. I'm looking forward to going through this thread and tweaking this already great picture to make it even better!


I'm guessing the "Twin View" and "Index" features are going to be affected by the Digital transition on June 12th? Is there anyway to have the "Index" feature show digital channels?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Polarican* /forum/post/16371048
> 
> 
> I feel very fortunate to pick up 2 KD34XBR960's this month. I brought the 2nd one home yesterday. PQ is awesome and both sets are in mint condition! I was originally looking for a KD-36XS955 for the 2nd set, but ran across a great deal on the 2nd 960 and just went for it. I'm looking forward to going through this thread and tweaking this already great picture to make it even better!
> 
> 
> I'm guessing the "Twin View" and "Index" features are going to be affected by the Digital transition on June 12th? Is there anyway to have the "Index" feature show digital channels?



It depends on your cable or satellite system. Ours is 100% digital however with a splitter stations that are not scrambled (both HD and SD) can be indexed and viewed using the set's digital tuner. Twin view can still be used with those unscrambled stations still transmitted in analog by the provider.


----------



## Polarican

I mostly watch DVD's and only watch TV via OTA. Uncompressed HD looks really great on this set. I have over 40 Analog/Digital Channels combined and I'm hoping not to pay for Cable again With OTA, once the June 12th conversion happens, will these features on my 960 be useless? Especially the Index feature?


----------



## RalphArch

I just got my 960 a couple weeks ago and am starting to play around with it. One toy I got to go along with it is a refurbished JVC DVHS deck ($158 from B H photos) . Although I am still setting that up and discovering - it may be the ticket you are looking for to use the split screens (don't know about indexing)


At a minimum you can play back recorded digital material into an analog input that can be use for the split screen in that screen. But you can also use the I-link split screens directly to watch a recording via firewire on one window while viewing the digital ATSC channel on the other.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RalphArch* /forum/post/16373035
> 
> 
> At a minimum you can play back recorded digital material into an analog input



Please clarify. What type of recorded content are you planning on feeding to the analog inputs of the XBR960?


Also, what model of JVC DVHS VCR do you have (there were four manufactured)? Only the DT100U has an OTA ATSC digital tuner, allowing recording of OTA ATSC channels. All four models (including DT100U) allow digital recording of DTV content via firewire, assuming you have a firewire source (like Moto STB/DVR).


But I don't believe any of this digital recorded content can be played back through analog connections (e.g. S-video out of the VCR to S-video of the XBR960). I'm quite sure that only digital connections (i.e. HDMI for the 5U and 100U, or component video for all four models) are available for playback of these digital recordings.



Now, if you're talking about playing back digital LS3 recordings (i.e. digital MPEG compressed recordings to DVHS tape, of analog input source content) instead of conventional analog EP/SP VHS/SVHS, well that's really still analog as far as playback is concerned. LS3 plays back through analog S-video and composite connections, as it's simply MPEG-decompressed by the VCR and played out... just like it were standard VHS/SVHS.


But LS3 (and EP/SP) cannot be used to record OTA ATSC digital channels for HDTV playback purposes (through HDMI or component video), nor can it be used to digitally record firewire bitstream input, both of which are recorded in pure bitstream HS mode (and expected to be played back only through HDMI or component video). That's why there are such variant recording time limits, when using VHS/SVHS tapes (supporting EP/SP recording mode) or when using DVHS tapes (also supporting LS3 and HS recording mode).


Let me know if you have questions on your DVHS acquisition. I've been using them since 2001 (with the original "Panny combo" DST50/HD1000, running off of Dish Network's 5000 receiver with the "HDTV adapter" that emitted channels as 8VSB to coax output, which looked just like today's OTA ATSC and was fed to the coax antenna input of the DST50).


----------



## RalphArch

Looks like I am going to be SOL and not able to do what I was planning to do.


I wish I had posted here before buying the JVC. My initial outlook was to get a *Mitsubishi HS-HD2000U -* *but* that had only firewire out for HD so I thought the JVC HM-4000u would be better with its component out that I could lug to my projector on occasion and would still work after the SONY died.







http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sq=desc&Q=&sb=ps&pn=1&ci=0&A=search&shs=Hm-Dh4000U


For firewire source itself I thought I would just use the XBR 360. I guess I am major SOL on that if it won't work . Like I said I haven't played around much at all with it - I suppose what you are saying is that a cable card enabled SONY XBR 360 won't play good with copy once material for input via firewire to the jvc.


Anyway off to try it and confirm that I made a bad choice - will post back looking for any help you can give me for salvaging something out of this.


(Yes - I thought that if you recorded a digital show it would be able to play back analog besides component - little did I know)


All is not totally lost - I do have a Motorola dvr cable box in the theater room and I suppose I could hook the jvc up there to give me more than the current 30 hours or so of available HD recording and also allow pernamnent archiving - then I could sneaker the vcr to the SONY for viewing but that seems a little too much effort


----------



## RalphArch




DSperber said:


> Please clarify. What type of recorded content are you planning on feeding to the analog inputs of the XBR960?
> 
> 
> 
> But I don't believe any of this digital recorded content can be played back through analog connections (e.g. S-video out of the VCR to S-video of the XBR960). I'm quite sure that only digital connections (i.e. HDMI for the 5U and 100U, or component video for all four models) are available for playback of these digital recordings.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, if you're talking about playing back digital LS3 recordings (i.e. digital MPEG compressed recordings to DVHS tape, of analog input source content) instead of conventional analog EP/SP VHS/SVHS, well that's really still analog as far as playback is concerned. LS3 plays back through analog S-video and composite connections, as it's simply MPEG-decompressed by the VCR and played out... just like it were standard VHS/SVHS.
> 
> 
> But LS3 (and EP/SP) cannot be used to record OTA ATSC digital channels for HDTV playback purposes (through HDMI or component video), nor can it be used to digitally record firewire bitstream input, both of which are recorded in pure bitstream HS mode (and expected to be played back only through HDMI or component video). That's why there are such variant recording time limits, when using VHS/SVHS tapes (supporting EP/SP recording mode) or when using DVHS tapes (also supporting LS3 and HS recording mode).
> 
> 
> quote]
> 
> 
> 
> It was just a 5 minute or so test but it looks like it is going to work for me. I tried recording a couple minutes of Ugly Betty on ABC-HD (cable 210) - it works fine for recording. When playing back I can do it either off the firewire (and hit i-link during playback for HD full screen via firewire; or play back off the component out into the Sony; Or playback using the s-video out of vcr into the s-video on the Sony.
> 
> 
> I then tried recording a copy once channel (HBO-HD) and that is recording fine as well. So it looks like mine is working like I thought it should/would.
> 
> 
> Maybe you mean playing back with the VCR controls gives you fits? In my case I used the I-link controls and features on the XBR 360 to start recording and playback etc.


----------



## DSperber

(1) The firewire output of the XBR960 will definitely carry the output of its own digital ATSC tuner fed from its UHF/VHS antenna input (as I have it connected to a roof antenna). So you can absolutely use the XBR960's ATSC tuner as a firewire source for recording HDTV to DVHS on your JVC 40K for OTA channels.


And from what you say, using a Cable Card setup (which I don't have) and presumably using the Cable antenna input to the XBR960, the digital channels available from the cable company can also be passed out the firewire output of the XBR960 and recorded by the 40K from its firewire input. Two antenna inputs, same ATSC/QAM tuner involved, same functioning firewire output. No problem.


In fact, I have a JVC 40K as well as a JVC DT100U. My 40K is connected to my XBR960, so I'm relating details of actual experience with the same VCR you have. In fact, I just performed this very experiment you just did (just to be sure for my reply)... recording a few minutes of our local KCBS-DT channel here in LA during the evening news.



(2) The DVHS recording made from firewire out of the XBR960 to firewire in of the 40K can definitely be played back in true HDTV video (just as it aired on KCBS-DT) to the XBR960 via the component video outputs of the 40K, to the component video inputs of the XBR960.


The digital content sent over firewire recording to the VCR (which, I remind you, is 5C-compliant so that you will not be able to use the machine to copy a copy-once program recorded on DVHS tape to a second generation on a second DVHS tape) can either be a copy-always or copy-once program (both coming from the XBR960, via your Cable Card service). So you can definitely record both copy-always (e.g. your ABC-HD channel) as well as copy-once (e.g. your HBO-HD). Neither of these cases is a 5C violation, so you can record it all to DVHS via firewire from XBR960 to 40K.


In other words, that first generation copy on DVHS counts as the first copy... which you're always allowed to do for everything except pay-per-view (which is copy-never).



(3) On playback from the 40K, audio from the digital recording recording comes out in true DD5.1 digital form via the digital optical output of the 40K.


The same audio (converted by the 40K to analog from the 2-channel PCM stereo in the program's digital audio stream) is presented in 2-channel stereo analog form via the L/R-stereo analog outputs of the 40K.



(4) Playback of the digital recording from the 40K can also be done via the iLink approach on the XBR960 as you've confirmed.


Digital audio and digital video are passed via firewire from 40K to XBR960 and can be controlled by the iLink user interface on the XBR960, either in a window or fullscreen.



(5) I am, quite frankly, surprised that you say you can actually see S-video of this recording using the S-video input to the XBR960 (i.e. INPUT1/2/3). I cannot. My screen is black. I was not aware that any of the four JVC DVHS VCRs had down-converting capability to down-convert 1080i/720p to 480i for presentation out via S-video/composite.


So while I have the audio from the recorded program played back through both the digital optical output of the 40K as well as through its analog audio outputs, I most certainly do NOT have video presented to the XBR960 via S-video of the 40K (which goes to INPUT1 of the XBR060 in my configuration).


This is as per my original comment. So I'm genuinely surprised you say your 40K actually does put out an S-video version of your HD recording. Does not work for me, which honestly was why I said it wouldn't/shouldn't for you.


But if it does work for you, I'd say terrific! Of course you're not getting the true HDTV 1080i resolution picture via S-video... only the 16:9 image frame in 480i. But of course you can at least "zoom" using the XBR960 to fill the whole screen with that 16:9 frame.


But why do you want to use S-video as a viewing option, if you have the DVHS recording done via firewire from the XBR960 and it was true 1080i/720p HDTV and you can play back that recording using 1080i/720p component video or firewire/iLink?



The key here is that you absolutely CAN use the ATSC tuner of the XBR960 to record to the 40K via firewire, in true HDTV form on DVHS tape, of any channel you can tune the XBR960 to... either copy-always or copy-once channels. And playback from the 40K to the XBR960 can be done in that same HDTV form, via component video or firewire. This is what is most important about your new purchase.



NOTE: using firewire for playback, none of the "on screen display" graphics of the 40K are presented to the XBR960. They do not get overlaid onto the firewire stream. You must rely totally on the XBR960's iLink user interface for things like the digital timer, etc.


You will only see the OSD graphics from the 40K if you playback through component video. The 40K does overlay its graphics onto the component video outputs.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RalphArch* /forum/post/16375038
> 
> 
> Looks like I am going to be SOL and not able to do what I was planning to do.



No... your goal was to be able to record HDTV from XBR960's tuner (from all Cable Card channels) to DVHS on 40K, for later playback in the same original HDTV quality.


And you WILL be able to do just that. This is the whole purpose of the DVHS VCR and firewire connections.


I just don't understand why S-video is part of your story? It's not for HDTV, so forget it. Just use component video (or firewire/iLink, if you want).



NOTE: the firewire datastream is 720p/1080i, depending on what channel you recorded. The playback of this recording, via both firewire or component video, will also be at this same original 720p/1080i resolution (which is good, since the XBR960 can support both 720p and 1080i sources) but only if you change the default setting which upconverts 720p to 1080i.


In other words:


MENU -> FUNCTION SET UP -> IN/OUT FUNCTION -> TV OUTPUT 1


and then cursor from the default "720to1080" setting to the "NO CONV" value and push OK.




> Quote:
> My initial outlook was to get a Mitsubishi HS-HD2000U but that had only firewire out for HD so I thought the JVC HM-40000u would be better with its component out that I could lug to my projector on occasion and would still work after the SONY died.



Absolutely you made the right decision. The 40K is far more flexible and capable and usable for what you want to do with it.




> Quote:
> For firewire source itself I thought I would just use the XBR 360.



Perfect. Whatever you can tune to via your Cable Card service through the ATSC/QAM tuner of the XBR960 will be sent out the firewire connection to the 40K for DVHS recording.




> Quote:
> I suppose what you are saying is that a cable card enabled SONY XBR 360 won't play good with copy once material for input via firewire to the jvc.



That's not what I said.


As I hope I've now clarified, any channel you can tune the XBR960 to through your Cable Card will be sent out via firewire, and will be recordable to DVHS on the 40K. You will be able to play back these recordings on any HDTV (including your projector), either through component video or via firewire.


You simply will not be able to copy a "copy-once" DVHS recording (e.g. from HBO-HD) to a second generation DVHS tape (if you had a second DVHS VCR or other firewire recording device, like a camcorder). The 40K will put up a big message box on the screen that the content is not recordable, so it will be worthless to even try.




> Quote:
> Anyway off to try it and confirm that I made a bad choice



Again, I think I was just misunderstood.


What I was really saying is that you would not (or should not have been) able to play back an HDTV recording via S-video outputs of the 40K. That's all I said you couldn't do. You say now that your experiment shows it is somehow happening on your 40K, but I'm quite stunned because it doesn't happen on my 40K (and that would require down-conversion electronics/software in the 40K that is an unnecessary cost if the whole objective is "silly").


Again, why would you want to play back via 480i non-HDTV S-video anyway, when you already play back in true 720p/1080i HDTV via component video or firewire/iLink?



No... you've made a very good purchase.


If you don't mind lugging the DVHS VCR when you want to archive something permanently from your theater room Moto DVR to DVHS tape, you will be thrilled that you can now do that. And you'll be able to use the VCR to play back HDTV content on either your projector or XBR960.


And of course you can just do simple temporary offloading to DVHS tape for later playback and re-use of the tape, if your DVR gets tight on recording space.


Wise choice.


Hey... I even brought my "Panny combo" out of retirement, connecting it to my OTA antenna during the Summer Olympics, just to be able to record additional HDTV content to DVHS tape so as not to overload my DVR and JVC DT100U, which were already going largely fulltime for those two weeks. It took me quite a while to watch everything... all in HDTV (DVHS tapes made on the Panny HD1000 play back just fine on the JVC VCRs), but at least I didn't miss anything.


----------



## RalphArch

Thanks for all that detailed feedback - I am thrilled that it appears it is all going to work for me. (although my unit has an annoying click-click noise when playing back - maybe that is related to why its a refurb?)


On the s-video - I really wasn't planning on using that - it was more for just trying it out for the other poster who indicated some interest in an analog window with a digital for the twin view feature.


But I confirmed again that it does work on my set (by the way I don't have an OTA-I have cable hooked up to the JVC and then the XBR cable fed from the tv cable out on the JVC; with a cable card from Comcast in the xbr.


For me to get s-video out all I did was hook up the audio and video outs of the recorder into the video 2 of the tv (front). Then while playing back an HD recording (having started from the firewire interface and noting visually that it was 1080i) - I switch using tv/video on remote to video 2; which reports an NTSC signal as is displayed widescreen 16:9 - no zooming or anything. If I continue switching video input to component (video 5) - it reports 480i 16:9 and its obviously not in 1080i visually either.


Like I said I haven't played with this much; perhaps the s-video capability is tied to the choice of component output resolution - I never changed that since I got the set. Off to figure out how to get HD on my component instead of 480i


One thing the s-video may be useful for me is for doing conversion on the fly for outputting to a dvd as it appears to be doing the conversion. For example a friend of my wife's brother was on CSI the other night and I recorded for her and need to get her a copy. Maybe with this downconversion I will be able to get the show onto a dvd without all the overnight transcoding hassle.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RalphArch* /forum/post/16375769
> 
> 
> Off to figure out how to get HD on my component instead of 480i



This "mystery" symptom could actually be the answer to every outstanding question. And the solution should be found in:


MENU -> FUNCTION SET UP -> IN/OUT FUNCTION -> TV OUTPUT 1


There is a third option here, which I did not mention: ALLto480i!!!


This, in fact, sends ALL images out to the TV in 480i image format. The theory of this setting is that you do NOT have an HDTV capable of accepting 480p (SD DVD resolution) or 720p/1080i (HDTV and BluRay resolution). In fact, the expectation is specifically that you will be watching your recordings via S-video, and not through component video or firewire.


I'm guessing the previous owner of your 40K for some reason was using this HDTV-capable VCR in a non-HDTV environment!!! No wonder he gave it back! What an idiot!


Anyway, this could definitely explain why you're able to see video out of your S-video source (to INPUT2 on the XBR960)... specifically because of this setting. I guess the 40K does contain down-conversion capability, since the input was obviously 1080i.


Now, if you do what I suggested earlier, namely set this TV OUTPUT 1 setting to "NO CONV", not only will the output of the recording which you view through component video (INPUT5) actually show 1080i, but I'll bet lots of Benjamins that you will NOT be able to see any picture on your S-video input (INPUT2).


I don't think you should need to make a second recording to prove all of this. The original recording was untouched by the 40K and recorded exactly as the true datastream out of the firewire connection coming from the XBR960's tuner. That recording contained the true original 1080i data. It was, in fact, during playback that this "ALLto480" took over and converted everything to 480i... and allowed output via S-video.


So simply by changing this TV OUTPUT 1 setting that original recording test of yours will now (1) be visible in 1080i on INPUT5 via component video, and (2) become not visible on S-video INPUT2.


Again, note that audio is not handled the same way as video. In all cases the digital audio in the recording will ALWAYS be available on both (a) optical digital audio out from the 40K, and (b) analog L/R audio out from the 40K. And that analog audio is actually a D-to-A conversion taken from the 2-channel PCM stereo stream in the digital audio from the program, which might also have a DD5.1 stream as well.


And of course if the recording contains DD5.1 digital audio, then the optical digital output of the 40K will provide that DD5.1 digital audio stream to your receiver for playback through your theater sound system.


You will be very very happy with your acquisition... oh, and also your XBR960.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RalphArch* /forum/post/16375769
> 
> 
> For me to get s-video out all I did was hook up the audio and video outs of the recorder into the video 2 of the tv (front). Then while playing back an HD recording (having started from the firewire interface and noting visually that it was 1080i) - I switch using tv/video on remote to video 2; which reports an NTSC signal as is displayed widescreen 16:9 - no zooming or anything. If I continue switching video input to component (video 5) - it reports 480i 16:9 and its obviously not in 1080i visually either.



Just to reiterate... playback of a 1080i recording via component video should have presented "1080i" on the XBR960, not "480i".


Also, on the 40K there is not simultaneous 720p/1080i output via component video at the same time as there is 480i output via S-video. It's one or the other, not both (although 480i SD recordings will be presented at both S-video and component video outputs of the 40K).


And this "TV OUTPUT 1" setting influences what will be presented from the S-video/composite outputs of the 40K when you're playing back 720p/1080i recordings.


From the large NOTE on page 56 of the user manual for this setting (forgive the stilted English):


"When you receive signals via iLink connector or play back the picture of 1080i, 720p, 480p image format, the signal is not output from the S-VIDEO or VIDEO output connector if "TV OUTPUT 1" is set to "720to180" or "NO CONV".


In other words, 1080i, 720p and 480p image formats are ONLY output from the S-video and composite connectors of the 40K when "TV OUTPUT 1" is set to "ALLto480i". And in this case down-converted 480i is also delivered to the component video outputs.


Note that the XBR960 can accept all resolutions, 480i, 480p, 720p and 1080i, through its component video inputs.



So, the answer again to all of the these puzzles and conundrums and mysteries: your 40K obviously was previously owned by an idiot without an HDTV, who set his VCR to output 480i for everything (through "ALLto480i"). This caused the 40K to deliver 480i output from all of its recordings, through its S-video/composite as well as component video outputs.


So even though a firewire recording might have been of an HDTV program, playback of that HDTV recording was down-converted to 480i and delivered simultaneously to both S-video and component video at that 480i resolution, rather than at the HDTV resolution it should/could have been delivered at (to the component video outputs).


If you change "Allto480i" to "NO CONV", you will now see true 720p/1080i resolution content being delivered from 40K out its component video outputs to the XBR960, so selecting INPUT5 on the XBR960 will display as 720p/1080i.


And you will now no longer see anything on the S-video outputs of the 40K, so selecting INPUT2 on the XBR960 will show black.


I rest my case.


----------



## RalphArch

Confirmed you were correct - and now I have HD on the component and black screen off the s-video and composite (but I also know how to set up the recorder to output hd via s-video; it really looks very good and there may be times when that is the kind of output desired (like when I need to copy a recorded show for someone and its easiest onto a vhs tape or into a digital camcorder)

.


I probably still need to send this unit back. The click=click click is really annoying, at least since it is a JVC refurb I do have a warrentee although it is only 30 days


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RalphArch* /forum/post/16376083
> 
> 
> but I also know how to set up the recorder to output hd via s-video; it really looks very good and there may be times when that is the kind of output desired (like when I need to copy a recorded show for someone and its easiest onto a vhs tape or into a digital camcorder)



I understand the concept. I assume you have a second ordinary VCR that you can feed from the S-video output of the 40K, to accomplish this.


One more nice thing about this option is that because the underlying 1080i HD program recording was digitally perfect (and this holds true even for non-HD 4:3 content on digital channels), its picture quality (color, sharpness, etc.) was superb. Much much better than the old 480i SD television picture quality. Thus the down-converted 480i version of this image and S-video copy of this image (out S-video from the 40K on to your second VCR) is also quite superb, especially when compared to the alternative result trying to use 480i SD all the way to two generations.


Just remember that the output over S-video is actually 4:3, even though it was a 16:9 original image and has been "wide zoom" enlarged by the XBR960 to fill your 16:9 screen.


So on the SD copy recording, and on the recipient's playback, it will appear as a letterboxed 16:9 rectangle (black bars on top and bottom, filling the entire screen horizontally) if viewed on a 4:3 set.


If viewed on a 16:9 set it will additionally have the usual black bars on the left and the right which accompany viewing of 4:3 content in "normal" mode", so there will be black bars on all four sides. Postage stamp.


Only if the recipient has a 16:9 set and does the same "wide zoom" your XBR960 did will that 480i rectangular 16:9 image in the center of the screen be expanded to fill the entire 16:9 screen, as was done on your XBR960. It won't be 1080i 16:9, but it will look very very very good.


----------



## Ennui




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/16354584
> 
> 
> Ive got some pics but doesnt look like many others will contribute ,judging from lack of responses lol.



Here is a pic from my 960. It has not been professionally calibrated.


This is cable input from my TivoHD into the HDMI port on the 960.


FYI.


----------



## oldirtdog

so i finally tried a cablecard (scientific atlanta multi stream card) in my kd-34xbr960 and much to my dismay it doesn't seem to be working properly...


upon it's initial boot sequence the card downloaded an update from comcast and then proceeded to search for analog and digital channels which it did find and label correctly i might add.


alas, the only channels that show picture and sound though are the 5 analog channels it found. the 600 or so digital channels all show a black screen with "no signal" in the upper left corner of the screen. without the cablecard the qam tuner picks up the few digital and hd channels that aren't encrypted though so my signal should be ok.


is this normal for the kd-34xbr960's using m-stream cards?? from what i read on the forums it seems as though the only way to get a kd-34xbr960 to work with an "m" card would be a firmware update (which doesn't exist). also, i've read that theres always a good possibility that this could be a bad card too??


do the above symptoms "card finds and labels channels but does not show a picture" sound familiar to any of you guys? or, if anyone here has had success with an m-card in an kd-34xbr960 could you please clue me in to anything else i can try.


already tried calling comcast and the guy on the phone couldn't get the card to show any of the digital channels through various and multiple actvation attempts. he did kick my ticket up to a higher department though so i can wait and see if it suddenly starts working.


----------



## Ennui




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oldirtdog* /forum/post/16384171
> 
> 
> so i finally tried a cablecard (scientific atlanta multi stream card) in my 960 and much to my dismay it doesn't seem to be working properly...
> 
> 
> upon it's initial boot sequence the card downloaded an update from comcast and then proceeded to search for analog and digital channels which it did find and label correctly i might add
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> alas, the only channels that show picture and sound though are the 5 analog channels it found. the 600 or so digital channels all show a black screen with "no signal" in the upper left corner of the screen.
> 
> 
> is this normal for the 960's using m-stream cards?? from what i read on the forums it seems as though the only way to get a 960 to work with an "m" card would be a firmware update (which doesn't exist). also, i've read that theres always a good possibility that this could be a bad card too??
> 
> 
> do the above symptoms "card finds and labels channels but does not show a picture" sound familiar to any of you guys? or, if anyone here has had success with an m-card in an xbr960 could you please clue me in to anything else i can try.
> 
> 
> thanks in advance.



I had a Cox S card in my 960 for a few years until I got the Tivo. Cox had to register the card to verify the pay channels. The Cox tech had to try several cards before he got one that worked. I do not know if an M card works in the 960, but the Cox tech had to call in to Cox to tell them the S/N or something off each card. Then he waited, watching the diagnostic screen to verify that Cox had "connected" with the card. Very involved.


----------



## RalphArch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oldirtdog* /forum/post/16384171
> 
> 
> so.
> 
> 
> alas, the only channels that show picture and sound though are the 5 analog channels it found. the 600 or so digital channels all show a black screen with "no signal" in the upper left corner of the screen. without the cablecard the qam tuner picks up the few digital and hd channels that aren't encrypted though so my signal should be ok.
> 
> 
> is this normal for the kd-34xbr960's using m-stream cards?? from what i read on the forums it seems as though the only way to get a kd-34xbr960 to work with an "m" card would be a firmware update (which doesn't exist). also, i've read that theres always a good possibility that this could be a bad card too??
> 
> 
> do the above symptoms "card finds and labels channels but does not show a picture" sound familiar to any of you guys? or, if anyone here has had success with an m-card in an kd-34xbr960 could you please clue me in to anything else i can try.
> 
> 
> already tried calling comcast and the guy on the phone couldn't get the card to show any of the digital channels through various and multiple actvation attempts. he did kick my ticket up to a higher department though so i can wait and see if it suddenly starts working.



Sounds similar to my installation situation maybe 2 weeks ago. In my case although they told me I could install myself on phone when I got to the cable company to pick up cards they didn't have any and said they always require a technician to activate.


So a week later tech comes and installs cable card searches channels and finds 300 or so. (free visit for me since they gave me bad info on whether I could pick up). Technician leaves and one hour later when I am looking at the scanned channels all is cut off.


I then get the same symptoms you noted - about 4 or 8 analogs and nothing else although the channels are there and the cable card tunes to the digital channels .


Call cable company and they say everything should be working - its all authorized (remember it was working when tech left) and they would send another "hit to reactivate " / reset the service - call back in 1/2 hour.


Do that - nothing works - call the service/installation folks to get the technician back. Turns out that the cable card was not registered in the installation data base - which is different informatiion than what the troubleshooters on the phone get.


Bottom line is that I think with COMCAST you may need to bite the bullet and get a tech out for the install.


what do you get on the cable card diagnostics screen?


----------



## oldirtdog




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RalphArch* /forum/post/16385792
> 
> 
> Sounds similar to my installation situation maybe 2 weeks ago. In my case although they told me I could install myself on phone when I got to the cable company to pick up cards they didn't have any and said they always require a technician to activate.
> 
> 
> So a week later tech comes and installs cable card searches channels and finds 300 or so. (free visit for me since they gave me bad info on whether I could pick up). Technician leaves and one hour later when I am looking at the scanned channels all is cut off.
> 
> 
> I then get the same symptoms you noted - about 4 or 8 analogs and nothing else although the channels are there and the cable card tunes to the digital channels .
> 
> 
> Call cable company and they say everything should be working - its all authorized (remember it was working when tech left) and they would send another "hit to reactivate " / reset the service - call back in 1/2 hour.
> 
> 
> Do that - nothing works - call the service/installation folks to get the technician back. Turns out that the cable card was not registered in the installation data base - which is different informatiion than what the troubleshooters on the phone get.
> 
> 
> Bottom line is that I think with COMCAST you may need to bite the bullet and get a tech out for the install.
> 
> 
> what do you get on the cable card diagnostics screen?



this is what i get on the screen
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u...x/SNC00009.jpg 


and this is what i get on the diagnostic screen for channel 601

http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u...x/SNC00012.jpg 


guess i'll have to schedule a truck roll then. thanks. and just so i understand correctly you have one of these new scientific atlanta multi stream cablecards working in a kd-34xbr960 after your initial problems?? if so that's great news.


thanks again for the reply.


----------



## RalphArch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *oldirtdog* /forum/post/16386013
> 
> 
> and just so i understand correctly you have one of these new scientific atlanta multi stream cablecards working in a kd-34xbr960 after your initial problems?? if so that's great news.




No - I guess I was not clear. The card I have in the 960 is a Motorola M-card called MediaCipher


I can not display the cable card screen you took a photo of, the cable card choice is disabled on the 960 and the only choice available on my 955xs is to reset ((show is grayed out)


My diagnostics screens look similar to yours so it appears you cable card is set up and working correctly


Like I said - in my case it was a simple situation of the cable card not being registered in the COMCAST installation data base (although it obvioously was earlier in the day when the tech left so someone removed it)


And the people you get on phone when calling 1 800 comcast don't have a clue (besides sending a reset signal) and didn't have access to the information the installation tech had.


You could possible get it working with a telephone call but it needs to be to different folks than those you get with the 800 call


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jamesflames* /forum/post/16307166
> 
> 
> The Kuro thread has pictures thread of the image quality they get from their sets. I think it'd be pretty cool if we did the same thing. I tried to mimic the settings one of their posters used for their camera but my results were far from stellar, otherwise I'd start the thread. Anyone else like the idea?



I did some experimenting tonight. Shooting with my Nikon D300 on a tripod. I had to use my 18-200mm zoom lens (aperture priority, f5.6) because I couldn't get far enough back with to use my 60mm (ultra-sharp) or even 50mm lenses. Auto-focus worked pretty well, but not quite as sharp as I'd hoped. Now that I see the results I probably could have used manual focus and gotten somewhat better results, measuring the distance from camera lens to HDTV screen. But it looks good for AF on a TV picture.


It's not easy getting the photo to look like what's on the screen colorwise, but playing with white balance (6250K or 6670K seems to give good results), and exposure compensation (-1.67, -2.00, -2.33 when shooting at the TV in a black room) comes close.


The camera's LCD display is not quite accurate as far as color goes as I would like, so I actually gave up prematurely thinking I was never going to get it right. But it turns out the actual photo itself is much better (and reflects much more accurate color compared to what's on the XBR960) than what the camera displays on the LCD.


So when I thought it wasn't great, it turns out it was very very good. But I didn't realize that until I transferred the pictures to the computer and looked at them on my Eizo monitor. Had I known then what I know now, I would have taken pictures of a few more scenes from other shows as I'd planned. Unfortunately, they're now deleted.


Anyway, here are some samples, of Kelly Clarkson on SNL and also of Bill Maher. I wish I hadn't deleted my recording of the Celtics/Bulls game yesterday, just to have a different example of a more brightly lit XBR960 arena image of lots of bodies, assorted colors and the parquet floor.


----------



## BeachComber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RalphArch* /forum/post/16388300
> 
> 
> No - I guess I was not clear. The card I have in the 960 is a Motorola M-card called MediaCipher
> 
> 
> I can not display the cable card screen you took a photo of, the cable card choice is disabled on the 960 and the only choice available on my 955xs is to reset ((show is grayed out)
> 
> 
> My diagnostics screens look similar to yours so it appears you cable card is set up and working correctly
> 
> 
> Like I said - in my case it was a simple situation of the cable card not being registered in the COMCAST installation data base (although it obvioously was earlier in the day when the tech left so someone removed it)
> 
> 
> And the people you get on phone when calling 1 800 comcast don't have a clue (besides sending a reset signal) and didn't have access to the information the installation tech had.
> 
> 
> You could possible get it working with a telephone call but it needs to be to different folks than those you get with the 800 call



The M Card is the Multistream card which the TIVO uses, which was essentially a second generation card. I *believe* it has been said the 960 does not work with the M Card, but the legacy cards.


----------



## RalphArch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BeachComber* /forum/post/16392970
> 
> 
> The M Card is the Multistream card which the TIVO uses, which was essentially a second generation card. I *believe* it has been said the 960 does not work with the M Card, but the legacy cards.



Well the card I noted (which is a Motorola) is working fine in my 960.


----------



## jamesflames




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/16354584
> 
> 
> Ive got some pics but doesnt look like many others will contribute ,judging from lack of responses lol.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I did some experimenting tonight. Shooting with my Nikon D300 on a tripod. I had to use my 18-200mm zoom lens (aperture priority, f5.6) because I couldn't get far enough back with to use my 60mm (ultra-sharp) or even 50mm lenses. Auto-focus worked pretty well, but not quite as sharp as I'd hoped. Now that I see the results I probably could have used manual focus and gotten somewhat better results, measuring the distance from camera lens to HDTV screen. But it looks good for AF on a TV picture.
> 
> 
> It's not easy getting the photo to look like what's on the screen colorwise, but playing with white balance (6250K or 6670K seems to give good results), and exposure compensation (-1.67, -2.00, -2.33 when shooting at the TV in a black room) comes close.
> 
> 
> The camera's LCD display is not quite accurate as far as color goes as I would like, so I actually gave up prematurely thinking I was never going to get it right. But it turns out the actual photo itself is much better (and reflects much more accurate color compared to what's on the XBR960) than what the camera displays on the LCD.
> 
> 
> So when I thought it wasn't great, it turns out it was very very good. But I didn't realize that until I transferred the pictures to the computer and looked at them on my Eizo monitor. Had I known then what I know now, I would have taken pictures of a few more scenes from other shows as I'd planned. Unfortunately, they're now deleted.
> 
> 
> Anyway, here are some samples, of Kelly Clarkson on SNL and also of Bill Maher. I wish I hadn't deleted my recording of the Celtics/Bulls game yesterday, just to have a different example of a more brightly lit XBR960 arena image of lots of bodies, assorted colors and the parquet floor.




Well thanks for responding. I had my 960 calibrated 2 1/2 years ago and have since moved twice. That plus having a pretty old point and shoot camera (Canon Powershot G2) isn't doing my picture's justice.


Here's a shot from DirecTv without using a tripod. I will take try again with a picture off an HD-DVD.

http://www.snapdrive.net/files/454986/IMG_1082.JPG


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jamesflames* /forum/post/16404584
> 
> 
> Well thanks for responding. I had my 960 calibrated 2 1/2 years ago and have since moved twice. That plus having a pretty old point and shoot camera (Canon Powershot G2) isn't doing my picture's justice.



I spent quite a lot of time experimenting on that Kelly Clarkson SNL photo. In the end I think it came out quite well. Very sharp, excellent color rendition (compared to the original on the XBR960), and almost 3D-like (if you ask me). Looks like a film print shot, more so than TV. Anyway, as the "parent" I'm quite proud of this one.




> Quote:
> Here's a shot from DirecTv without using a tripod. I will take try again with a picture off an HD-DVD.



I don't want to sound unfairly critical, but it sure does look like there's what I would feel to be an unacceptable bow/curvature (downward at the ends) of the scorebar on the top of that screen image.


The XBR960 has many users (including myself) contributing similar descriptions of the same kind of matching bow/curvature (including upward at the ends, as well) for a horizontal line on the bottom of the screen.


When I first got my set, I was unwilling to accept this and prevailed on Sony to send out a factory tech to adjust (I assumed this could not have been what they intended, and therefore should be able to fix it).


The first tech's visit was incomplete and the results still unacceptable, so I called Sony again and insisted they get a second tech to come out. This time they offered me a choice of local authorized service centers, and I was very fortunate to get a wonderful technician who spent a total of about 3 hours at my house over two separate visits applying magnets to the back of the picture tube to correct the curvature I had, like yours. He ran out of magnets on the first visit and came back a second time when he'd received more, to complete the job.


From your picture I believe your set could stand some professional adjustment. Horizontal lines should be horizontal, but rectangular flat CRT screens have a physical problem (since the electron gun is spraying a flat screen) which seems characteristic and common. Magnets on the picture tube are the solution.


I will take another few shots of both baseball and basketball from my XBR960 and post them. I'd like to see how the colors come out, but mostly to show how horizontal lines look on my set, along with my overscan settings.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jamesflames* /forum/post/16404584
> 
> 
> Here's a shot from DirecTv without using a tripod. I will take try again with a picture off an HD-DVD.



That curvature could be resolved by going into the service menu for geometry.


Also, did you have to chose a game in which the Mets ultimately blew?


----------



## Mathesar

Here's some shots I randomly picked , taken with a Canon G6 camera & XBR960N:


Kameo / Xbox360:











Oblivion / Xbox360:











PS3 Bluray / Harry Potter And the Order of the Phoenix:


----------



## unclepauly

Those pics look great on my fw900 PC monitor, which just so happens to be the little brother of the 960.


----------



## oldirtdog

i'm posting this in 2 places as it involves kd-34xbr960 owners and comcast cable customers in houston.


OK, first off if you are going to attempt to pick up a cablecard from one of your payment centers (if they allow you to do so), get as many cablecards as they will let you leave the office with. on my third trip to one of the houston payment centers i finally "wised" up and asked for more than one. in this case they let me leave with 2 of them (the 1st of those 2 being defective once again...)


now for some tips regarding a cablecard installation in a kd-34xbr960.


1. with the television off plug in the cablecard in the slot on the back of the t.v. and then turn it on. what should happen is the cablecard will download a firmware update (for the card not the t.v.). even though it says it's going to take 4 hours it only takes about 5-10 minutes to do so. after the update is done the cablecard will search for channels (about 5-10 minutes once more).


2. you should now be able to tune in limited basic channels, any analog stations that come up during the search and "in the clear hi-def and digital channels. if the cablecard isn't showing any channels at all or just the analog stations chances are it's a bad card.


3. if your step 2 seems to be fine, you should then navigate to the cablecard menu and pull up the host i.d. screen, if the screen shows a host i.d. then you can move to step 4. if there is no host i.d. on the host i.d. screen you can stop as there is nothing they can do over the phone to make the host i.d. show up.


4. if step 3 gives you a host i.d. then you can navigate to the cablecard menu and look at the "cablecard ca screen" you should see a status of "not staged" (this is fine) and then navigate to the "cp info screen" which should show "waiting for cp auth" (again, also fine for now).


5. call up customer service and request that your cablecard be "staged" this should take no longer than 5-10 minutes (sometimes almost instantly) if you get the right person on the phone. when the "ca screen" says "status: ready" instead of "not staged" you will get most if not all of the channels that you subscribe to. some channels (hbo or other premium channels and/or some encrypted digital/hd channels) might show a screen that says "to activate this cablecard call xxx-yyy-zzzz and the host i.d."


6. if you are not getting all your channels and the card is "staged" navigate to the "cp info screen" you will more than likely see "auth status: waiting for cp auth" (this would be why all the channels are not coming in). you may or may not be able to get a customer service rep to get this status changed to "auth status: cp auth received". in my case i had to e-mail comcast at...

[email protected] 


and the next day i got a call from a person who got me all sorted out in about 5 minutes. the cp info screen showed "auth status: cp auth received" which allowed the missing premium channels and missing encrypted digital/hi-def channels to come in.


hope this helps, and thanks to everyone who helped me out with this situation.


----------



## RalphArch

Congrats Old dirt dog on getting it working.


A heads up for those with Motorola M-cards like my MediaCypher - that menu navigation to cable card won't work as it is grayed out on a 960 - (at least after initial install)


Edit - or maybe graying out the choices is something that is done by an installation technician at the end of setting up a cable card - both my sets have that situation (well the 36k955xs has the ability to select reset but I don't want to do that and result in need for a technician to come out). Perhaps this won't happen with an install done by homeowner.


----------



## WJonathan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/16406570
> 
> 
> Here's some shots I randomly picked , taken with a Canon G6 camera & XBR960N:



Man those are sweet. Makes me realize how crappy the edge geometry is on my XBR970. If these things didn't weigh so much I'd love to replace mine with a properly calibrated XBR960.


----------



## jamesflames




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/16405756
> 
> 
> That curvature could be resolved by going into the service menu for geometry.
> 
> 
> Also, did you have to chose a game in which the Mets ultimately blew?



Well if you remember the Mets blew quite a few games early on so it was easy for me to capture such a game. And as far as the curvature goes I had such a problem getting the "not powering on" issue resolved that I was just happy to have my set working again. Of course my warranty is now expired.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jamesflames* /forum/post/16424516
> 
> 
> Well if you remember the Mets blew quite a few games early on so it was easy for me to capture such a game.



BRILLIANT! And now you can capture those kodak moments on YES.










Glad you resolved the curvature problem.


----------



## sirdelsol

Anyone in metro detroit looking to get rid of theirs? Hoping to pick one of these babies up!


Shoot me a pm or email!
[email protected]


----------



## jamesflames




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/16424658
> 
> 
> BRILLIANT! And now you can capture those kodak moments on YES.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad you resolved the curvature problem.



I'm a Mets' fan true and blue, although the lack of blue in Citi Field is unnerving to me.


My curvature problem is still there and magnet work is needed. At this point I'm not sure it'd be worth it to have the work done as I'm leaning towards purchasing a Pio FP.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jamesflames* /forum/post/16444243
> 
> 
> I'm a Mets' fan true and blue, although the lack of blue in Citi Field is unnerving to me.
> 
> 
> My curvature problem is still there and magnet work is needed. At this point I'm not sure it'd be worth it to have the work done as I'm leaning towards purchasing a Pio FP.



HI James,


I'm an original "new breeder" having been a Met fan since 1962. But I am angry at the Wilpons for their poor planning of Citifield: too many blind spots, corners dangerously close to the foul line which could cause serious injury and those field level seats that jud out so much as to prevent balls hit over the bag from traveling to the outfield which (along with those trick bounces off the wall) is not real baseball.


Have you tried the geometry adjustments in the service menu to reduce the curvature?


----------



## jamesflames




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/16445862
> 
> 
> HI James,
> 
> 
> Have you tried the geometry adjustments in the service menu to reduce the curvature?



When I purchased the set (I bought it open box) it suffered from the "not powering on" problem. Since it was still under warranty I had sony repair it but not without issues. At one point the picture looked monochrome during the repair process. Eventually I had them take it to the shop so I did not have to keep scheduling days off for them to show up and not resolve the issue. When I was certain the issue was resolved (and it has powered on every single time) I knew I was going to have it calibrated so I did not pay too much attention the the geometry. My calibrator attempted to adjust the curvature as well as overscan but could only get it corrected "up to a point". He does not do magnet work, just service menu adjustments. I was contemplating re-calibrating the set with someone that does magnet work since it's been about 2 1/2 years but now I'm looking to replace the set as my main tv. If I bring someone in the calibrate the new set (hopefully pio plasma or similiar) I may have them work on the 960 if I find a good place for it.


----------



## jamesflames




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/16445862
> 
> 
> HI James,
> 
> 
> I'm an original "new breeder" having been a Met fan since 1962. But I am angry at the Wilpons for their poor planning of Citifield: too many blind spots, corners dangerously close to the foul line which could cause serious injury and those field level seats that jud out so much as to prevent balls hit over the bag from traveling to the outfield which (along with those trick bounces off the wall) is not real baseball.



I haven't been to the field yet as I'm now in FL. I'm not too happy about the fact there is less seating now and the ticket prices are much higher. And like I said, the dominant colors of the field are black and orange, so much unlike shea which portrayed the team's colors of blue and orange. At least they've been winning lately.


----------



## Jon S

My Sony is exhibiting a strange problem. Every s often, the set makes a very LOUD pop every four hours or so. Nothing else happens. The image is fine, the picture is fine... nothing else... any ideas? My neighbor's Sony just upped and died on him so he bought a plasma. My unit is a tad over two years old...


----------



## tveli

probably it's arcing. it can be normal due to the high voltages -

a static discharge inside the case.

it might be good to vacuum out the dust bunnies, if any...


----------



## RalphArch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/16375652
> 
> 
> As I hope I've now clarified, any channel you can tune the XBR960 to through your Cable Card will be sent out via firewire, and will be recordable to DVHS on the 40K. You will be able to play back these recordings on any HDTV (including your projector), either through component video or via firewire.
> 
> 
> You simply will not be able to copy a "copy-once" DVHS recording (e.g. from HBO-HD) to a second generation DVHS tape (if you had a second DVHS VCR or other firewire recording device, like a camcorder). The 40K will put up a big message box on the screen that the content is not recordable, so it will be worthless to even try.



I sent my unit back for the Click-click sound (B H Photo was great - no hassle on exchange) - but the new unit has the same sound so I guess its what the tape deck does when playing back HD recordings (it is a low volume click click)


I was surprised to find that the replacement unit played back 1080i protected recordings (Starz etc) made on the original recorder. I thought they didn't allow that?


Does that mean if I get a second unit I can just take the tapes between them and play at either location?


Or is this non-standard? If it is standard behaviour I may just get another refurbished tape deck from B H Photo.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RalphArch* /forum/post/16500728
> 
> 
> I was surprised to find that the replacement unit played back 1080i protected recordings (Starz etc) made on the original recorder. I thought they didn't allow that?



Playing back a tape recording is not restricted in any way, no matter what VCR you play it on and no matter whether that recorded content is "copy once" or "copy always". That is what a tape recording is intended for... to be played back on a VCR. Doesn't matter what VCR you play it on or recorded it on.


It is COPYING that [1st-generation] tape recording of "copy once" content to a second [generation]tape (if you had two VCR's and connected them with firewire and tried to make a digital copy) which is prevented. You can do this with "copy always" content but not with "copy once" content. If you did connect the two machines with firewire and pressed PLAY on the source machine and REC on the target machine, the source machine would shut down its output and instead present black. The target machine would present an error message on your connected display HDTV that you are not allowed to record protected content.


The 5C copy protection rules are concerned strictly with the process of digitally copying content from tape to tape, not playing that tape recording.




> Quote:
> Does that mean if I get a second unit I can just take the tapes between them and play at either location?



Absolutely. No problem. Have at it and enjoy.


I myself have two DVHS VCRs at two separate TV locations (one connected to my DVR and HDTV, and the second at a second HDTV). Tapes can be played on either machine and thus viewed on either HDTV depending on my mood. This is precisely one of the advantages of having recordings on tape and multiple VCRs/HDTVs, overcoming the limitation of having only one DVR connected to one of my HDTVs.


----------



## RalphArch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/16501454
> 
> 
> are concerned strictly with the process of digitally copying content from tape to tape, not playing that tape recording.
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely. No problem. Have at it and enjoy.
> 
> 
> I myself have two DVHS VCRs at two separate TV locations (one connected to my DVR and HDTV, and the second at a second HDTV). Tapes can be played on either machine and thus viewed on either HDTV depending on my mood. This is precisely one of the advantages of having recordings on tape and multiple VCRs/HDTVs, overcoming the limitation of having only one DVR connected to one of my HDTVs.



Thanks for feedback - just ordered my second JVC D-VHS deck for the Theater room - will hook that up to the COMCAST/Motorola PVR via firewire and hopefully have a second source for recording besides the 960. Maybe I will find a way to archive some of my 26 hard disks that are loaded with movies from before the 5c days onto tape as well.


----------



## lastmile

In case anyone is interested, I just found a 960 for sale on craigslist with stand in NJ. Its not mine and I'd grab it if I could transport it.

http://cnj.craigslist.org/ele/1194891343.html


----------



## unclepauly

How does everyone have their sound settings configured? On mine I have to turn the treble and bass all the way to zero just to be able to stand it. At the default(31 I think) it sounds too boomy/tinny.


----------



## jdre

31 is the middle. I haven't got an XBR960, but my 34HS510 has too much treble. I think the bass will improve once I get it out of the garage! ( My 32HS510 has a bit of boom/tinny as well. I cut the treble, but not as much as on the 34HS510. The boom is from the corner placement of my set.) At least it can be adjusted, and don't have to boost bass up.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/16552041
> 
> 
> How does everyone have their sound settings configured? On mine I have to turn the treble and bass all the way to zero just to be able to stand it. At the default(31 I think) it sounds too boomy/tinny.



I've had it turned off since purchase. I found the built-in sound unacceptable (especially compared to the built-in sound of the Sampo I was replacing).


Instead, I've connected a spare set of Altec-Lansing 621 (2 satellites plus subwoofer) powered speakers I had from an old computer, fed from the monitor L/R stereo output of the 960. This is a very nice sounding set of computer speakers and beats the pants off the built-in sound from the 960 itself.


----------



## unclepauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/16552873
> 
> 
> I've had it turned off since purchase. I found the built-in sound unacceptable (especially compared to the built-in sound of the Sampo I was replacing).
> 
> 
> Instead, I've connected a spare set of Altec-Lansing 621 (2 satellites plus subwoofer) powered speakers I had from an old computer, fed from the monitor L/R stereo output of the 960. This is a very nice sounding set of computer speakers and beats the pants off the built-in sound from the 960 itself.



I'm gonna try that, I've got a creative I-trigue 2.1 system that might sound better. The i-trigue basically has NO midrange though, the two speakers are really just tweeters and the sub is 6" I think. I think I'll use this until I can acquire a stereo receiver and a couple bookshelf speakers.


----------



## Harvest




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/16553408
> 
> 
> I think I'll use this until I can acquire a stereo receiver and a couple bookshelf speakers.



I listened to the 960's sound for about 30 seconds as I was initially setting it up. For sound I use an Onkyo 805 for processing duties and 5 channels of power amps into a 5.1 AV123 Rocket set up. Before that I used an old receiver and a pair of floor standing speakers to great effect. The picture quality is so wonderful on the 960 it seems a shame not to match it with decent audio. Unshielded floorstanding speakers near the 960 are tricky though.


----------



## unclepauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Harvest* /forum/post/16560049
> 
> 
> I listened to the 960's sound for about 30 seconds as I was initially setting it up. For sound I use an Onkyo 805 for processing duties and 5 channels of power amps into a 5.1 AV123 Rocket set up. Before that I used an old receiver and a pair of floor standing speakers to great effect. The picture quality is so wonderful on the 960 it seems a shame not to match it with decent audio. Unshielded floorstanding speakers near the 960 are tricky though.



Yeah definitely, the audio needs to be upgraded and unshielded would be a huge mistake I'm sure. I use the 960 as a bedroom TV cause I've got a 60" in the living room so just left/right speakers and maybe a little(but nice!) sub would do the trick.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Except for the HDMI cable for HD, all my audio (dvd players, VCR and DVR optical) go directly to my Yamaha receiver.


However, I can't really complain about the broadcast audio that comes through the 960. While the treble remains at mid-point (so the highes won't be tinney) I have increased the bass to add a little extra punch. It's pleasing for TV but of course, nothing compares to listening via 6.1..


----------



## Harvest




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/16560546
> 
> 
> unshielded would be a huge mistake I'm sure.



So true. I wasn't paying attention and learned the hard way. I found that if I keep the presently unshielded speakers (a pair of RS550s) exactly the same distance relative to the 960 and exactly parallel to each other AND nearly level...the magnetic fields cancel each other out. Shift one a bit and discoloration sets in. I can't move the speakers any further apart due to room configuration so for now I am stuck.


----------



## smirnoffski

I have a 960 I must reluctantly part with. I am in the Los Angeles area and have taken great care of my baby. PM me if interested.


----------



## avnstf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RalphArch* /forum/post/16502385
> 
> 
> Thanks for feedback - just ordered my second JVC D-VHS deck for the Theater room - will hook that up to the COMCAST/Motorola PVR via firewire and hopefully have a second source for recording besides the 960. Maybe I will find a way to archive some of my 26 hard disks that are loaded with movies from before the 5c days onto tape as well.



I just noticed this discussion, and maybe someone here can answer this question...I have a JVC 30K D-VHS (not 40k) deck that I bought in 2003 to work with my original Samsung 165 tuner (feeding into my 32 HS510, if I remember the number correctly), which controls the 30k via firewire, and I also found that an LG 3410a receiver/recorder that I got 2 years later would record onto the 30k.


However, I am surprised that the Comcast motorola PVR would record onto the 40k...is the 40k different from the 30k in this respect? As far as I know, the Motorola has no facility for turning ON the 30Ks firewire recording capability, and you can only turn on firewire recording on the 30k FROM a unit that is designed to control it...(which both the Samsung 165 and the LG 4310a are).


Do I have something wrong here? Or does the 40K have a different firewaire capability than the 30k in this respect?


Thanks for any info - this is something that I have found hard to figure out...I have been using the the 3410a/JVC 30K combo more lately, primarily to archive high-value musical productions, like Metropolitan opera broadcasts on PBS, but I (like other 3410a owners) am concerned about the 3410a's surviving the digital transition intact (since its program guide depends on reception of analog broadcasts of the "TVGOS" program data that it depends on).


Thanks - Tony


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *avnstf* /forum/post/16622625
> 
> 
> However, I am surprised that the Comcast motorola PVR would record onto the 40k...is the 40k different from the 30k in this respect? As far as I know, the Motorola has no facility for turning ON the 30Ks firewire recording capability, and you can only turn on firewire recording on the 30k FROM a unit that is designed to control it...(which both the Samsung 165 and the LG 4310a are).
> 
> 
> Do I have something wrong here? Or does the 40K have a different firewaire capability than the 30k in this respect?



The DVR does not "control" the DVHS VCR like the Samsung 165 does. The Samsung tuner was very similar in idea to the original Panny DST50/51 tuners. In fact many people replaced their Panny tuners with the Samsung tuner and retained the original Panny PV-HD1000 DVHS VCR (which was part of the original "Panny combo", used way back when to record HD from Dish Network's 5000 tuner with the HD 8VSB adapter). The tuner controlled the external recording device entirely via commands sent over firewire (along with the data sent over firewire), based on timer events just like an ordinary 1-box VCR.


The DVR, on the other hand, is NOT such a controlling device.


Instead, the DVR simply feeds data out by the firewire port, to the connected JVC DVHS VCRs. You are in charge of pushing the REC and STOP buttons I'm afraid. Totally manual recording process, but it works.


----------



## mjrgamer

Long live the mighty XBR960............................at least for a few more years until something out there can match it's performance.







Kuro comes oh so close.


----------



## avnstf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/16622763
> 
> 
> Instead, the DVR simply feeds data out by the firewire port, to the connected JVC DVHS VCRs. You are in charge of pushing the REC and STOP buttons I'm afraid. Totally manual recording process, but it works.



hmm..ok, but for my 30k JVC unit, I have never found a way of MANUALLY turning ON or OFF recording from the firewire...doesn't mention how to in the manual, I don't think...


I'll check again, and - if I can figure it out - may try it, just out of curiosity (we're stopping Comcast after the Tour de France this summer...over a hundred bucks a month, when most of what we watch is broadcast HD programming...and I hope to get a good blu-ray player, that does a good job of up converting standard DVDs AND that includes netflix...hoping for a lot, I know)


Thanks - Tony


PS...I'm a little surprised that, if you can manually start and stop the recording on the JVC, you can't also set a timer to do it...?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *avnstf* /forum/post/16622964
> 
> 
> hmm..ok, but for my 30k JVC unit, I have never found a way of MANUALLY turning ON or OFF recording from the firewire...doesn't mention how to in the manual, I don't think...



I don't understand your question. You simply push the REC button after having selected the I-n input (which corresponds to iLink input, i.e. firewire) and setting up the proper place on your DVR playback. Presumably you've inserted a DVHS blank tape, as that's the way you tell the VCR it is now able to record firewire input digitally (i.e. "HS" recording speed).




> Quote:
> PS...I'm a little surprised that, if you can manually start and stop the recording on the JVC, you can't also set a timer to do it...?



Don't ask me why JVC designed it that way, but you cannot set up a timer event using I-n as a "channel". You can record from the L-1/2 and F-1 line inputs, or a SD channel number from the built-in tuner on the 30K, 40K and 5U (or a digital channel from the built-in ATSC tuner if you have a DT100U), but you cannot use I-n as a "channel" for a timer event to schedule an automatic recording.


Hence why you can only record from firewire on any of the family of DVHS VCRs from JVC by using your finger to push the REC button after having selected I-n as the input.


----------



## Greater Malison

Hi guys i am now the proud owner of a 960 but I have a couple of problems. This is the secondary set on a single Dish network box that is supposed to pick up the signal from vhf cable on channel 21. There is nothing there. Also i cannot switch between video inputs for some reason it automatically goes to video 7 and i can not go anywhere from there except back to TV. Ive literally only been fooling around with if for 20 minutes i guess ill download the user guide until someone can respond.


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Greater Malison* /forum/post/16624456
> 
> 
> Hi guys i am now the proud owner of a 960 but I have a couple of problems. This is the secondary set on a single Dish network box that is supposed to pick up the signal from vhf cable on channel 21. There is nothing there. Also i cannot switch between video inputs for some reason it automatically goes to video 7 and i can not go anywhere from there except back to TV. Ive literally only been fooling around with if for 20 minutes i guess ill download the user guide until someone can respond.



The previous owner set it up to Skip the other inputs. Go into the setup menu and look for Label Inputs. Change the labels from Skip to something else on the list to see them. It's located in the Toolbox Icon, second from the bottom in the left hand pane.


----------



## wbrett

I love that feature.


----------



## RalphArch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/16623196
> 
> 
> Don't ask me why JVC designed it that way, but you cannot set up a timer event using I-n as a "channel". You can record from the L-1/2 and F-1 line inputs, or a SD channel number from the built-in tuner on the 30K, 40K and 5U (or a digital channel from the built-in ATSC tuner if you have a DT100U), but you cannot use I-n as a "channel" for a timer event to schedule an automatic recording.
> 
> 
> Hence why you can only record from firewire on any of the family of DVHS VCRs from JVC by using your finger to push the REC button after having selected I-n as the input.



I haven't gotten around to exploring all the features of my xbr960 and separate Comcast DVR box recording capabilities to my two JVC 40K's - but maybe you can save me some investigation times.


The Sony can at least initiate recording over the firewire, so I was wondering if the serial (RS-232?) capability could come into play in scheduling and intitiating recordings; either with the Sony 960 or a computer which I have at the same location as the Sony or somehow (I realize less likely) with the Comcast DVR. Is this all not worth pursuing?


----------



## avnstf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/16623196
> 
> 
> I don't understand your question. You simply push the REC button after having selected the I-n input (which corresponds to iLink input, i.e. firewire) and setting up the proper place on your DVR playback. Presumably you've inserted a DVHS blank tape, as that's the way you tell the VCR it is now able to record firewire input digitally (i.e. "HS" recording speed).
> 
> 
> 
> Don't ask me why JVC designed it that way, but you cannot set up a timer event using I-n as a "channel". You can record from the L-1/2 and F-1 line inputs, or a SD channel number from the built-in tuner on the 30K, 40K and 5U (or a digital channel from the built-in ATSC tuner if you have a DT100U), but you cannot use I-n as a "channel" for a timer event to schedule an automatic recording.
> 
> 
> Hence why you can only record from firewire on any of the family of DVHS VCRs from JVC by using your finger to push the REC button after having selected I-n as the input.



ok..thank you - I went back and found the place at the bottom of the first page (of the manual) on manual recording where it indicates this in a long footnote...which makes sense now in terms of what you say...I either didn't notice this or didn't understand it when I was trying to figure out whether I actually COULD record from the Comcast unit, when we got it 3 years ago.


So, again - Thanks, and sorry if I sounded perplexed (which I guess I was) - Tony


PS I was also kind of amazed one can get refurbished 40k units so inexpensively, because maybe that means there's a market for the Samsung 165 that has been sitting unused since we got the Comcast unit (making a total of 3 digital high-def recorders, occupying all 3 of the hig-def inputs to my Sony TV)! There aren't that many options for timer recordings of high-def programming...


----------



## gmarceau

I'm looking to get rid of my xbr 960 if anyone is interested. I'm in the Pittsburgh area.


It works perfectly, but I'm going back to grad school and need a little extra cash for rent.


email me at [email protected]


----------



## azideam

Sorry to break up the DVHS ramblings here... I have a JVC 30k too.


Question to all: as a recent owner of the 960, has a ISF calibration made any difference to the noticability of phosphor trailing one sees on this tube? Given it's only when watching a high contrast moving image (candle in dark room, etc.) I'm thinking it's par for the course on the SFP tube, but looking for experiences of those who've had their's ISF'd or DIY'd it in the service menu.


Thanks in advance.


----------



## unclepauly

I wouldn't think so.


----------



## DJF(NJ)




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *azideam* /forum/post/16631964
> 
> 
> Sorry to break up the DVHS ramblings here... I have a JVC 30k too.
> 
> 
> Question to all: as a recent owner of the 960, has a ISF calibration made any difference to the noticability of phosphor trailing one sees on this tube? Given it's only when watching a high contrast moving image (candle in dark room, etc.) I'm thinking it's par for the course on the SFP tube, but looking for experiences of those who've had their's ISF'd or DIY'd it in the service menu.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.



Yes, I noticed a slight decrease in phosphor trail when my 960 was last calibrated by ChadB. Not a whole lot, but I know my reference scenes that I play often and I would replay them quite often after calibration to notice the differences.


----------



## TomGreen321

Just lower the contrast, that's the only way to do it. Make sure your brightness isn't too low.


----------



## Summit HDTV

Greetings,


We picked up a used KV-34XBR960 and matching Sony stand from an owner on Craigslist and lugged the items home this weekend. Big job!


I calibrated several of these displays (including the XBR970) over the years and always wanted to have the XBR960 for our family room. I always had high respect for this display but could not afford it at the time it was new. We're replacing the KV-30HS510 non-XBR 30" CRTwidescreen display.


It appears so far this set was well cared for and ISF calibration is in process. The XBR960 power off screen color is noticeably darker/blacker than the 30HS510, and it shows with a deep black color produced by the XBR version of this display.


Already did the following operations:

*Set color, tint and sharpness to proper

*Aligned the color decoder

*Adjusted Landing to improve the screen uniformity. Uniformity is not perfect, but better with Landing adjustments.

*Corrected the convergence

*Adjusted overscan to about 1.5% all around for 1080i and about 4% all around for 480P.

*Y-C delay was spot on as purchased - no need to adjust

*Minor geometry corrections. Actually it was pretty good as purchased. It has some geometry problems only correctable with magnets.

*Corrected dynamic focus


Grayscale and Gamma calibration will be the last procedures done (later this week), but it already looks gorgeous!


If you don't mind a bulky 34" CRT widescreen this set is well worth owning. The color performance of this set is exceptional and the inky black is also exceptional.


For those of you in the Detroit, MI area you'll see our ISF calibrated 30" KV-30HS510 and matching stand for sale on Craigslist.


Regards


----------



## Greater Malison

Hey guys Im the proud owner of a 960 now and it was purchased solely for gaming on xbox 360. While i wouldnt say I'm dissapointed by the picture I was expecting the picture to be a little more vibrant than Im currently seeing. Unfortunately the barometer im using to measure that buy is call of duty 4 which im starting to realize is kind of a dark drab game to begin with. Anyway are there any recommended settings out there for gaming. Also I should state i do not have an hdmi compatible xbox but getting one wouldnt be a problem if the picture could improve significantly. Currently i have the contrast all the way up and the brightness set around 40 - seems high and when on a blank input screen my picture is pretty much grey but again got to see in those dark corners on CoD  Ive played with the sharpness but i honsetly cant notice much of a difference from 0 sharpness to max sharpness.

I have no idea what clear edge or advanced video are used for. Thanks in advance for any help.


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins

Sounds like it's completely torched.


Have you tried properly adjusting the black level settings and used it for at least a week "To get used to it"?


At those levels it'll be bright but completely inacurate and what makes the set so nice won't come through.


The picture won't really improve using HDMI for the 360, component is fine.


----------



## WJonathan

You know there's a switch you have to flip on the Xbox 360 component cables to get the proper brightness. Check out the 360 forum in the HT Gaming area.


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins

I don't have a 360 running with component (just assumed it would be equal if not superior to HDMI output since the 960 can't display 1080p and I don't think the 360 does lossless audio) but there's a brightness switch on the 360 component cable? What possible sense does that make? I've never heard of such a thing, how would that possibly work? Why wouldn't they just allow you to adjust brightness settings in-game or using your TV menu?


----------



## amazin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stinky-Dinkins* /forum/post/16664509
> 
> 
> I don't have a 360 running with component (just assumed it would be equal if not superior to HDMI output since the 960 can't display 1080p and I don't think the 360 does lossless audio) but there's a brightness switch on the 360 component cable? What possible sense does that make? I've never heard of such a thing, how would that possibly work? Why wouldn't they just allow you to adjust brightness settings in-game or using your TV menu?



The switch on the XBOX 360 component cables is only there to switch from an "HDTV" or a standard "TV." It has nothing to do with controlling the brightness level. If you have an HDTV you would obviously put it on "HDTV" to get 480p-1080p(if that particular HDTV is capable of coarse) and if you have a standard TV you would put the switch on just "TV."


----------



## Greater Malison

For the record i recently popped in Fallout 3 and loaded a game where i was in the Capital wasteland during day time and it looks great. Pretty much everything I was expecting to see in an upgrade from analog to at least 720p. Bioshock also looks amazing then theres Mass Effect - total crap. Lot of nose in the picture and all kinds of judder around commander sheppards face whenever he moves around. Is it possible that some games just look better than others?


----------



## unclepauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Greater Malison* /forum/post/16681247
> 
> 
> For the record i recently popped in Fallout 3 and loaded a game where i was in the Capital wasteland during day time and it looks great. Pretty much everything I was expecting to see in an upgrade from analog to at least 720p. Bioshock also looks amazing then theres Mass Effect - total crap. Lot of nose in the picture and all kinds of judder around commander sheppards face whenever he moves around. Is it possible that some games just look better than others?



Go into options and turn off the noise effect. It's there for cinematic purposes and yes there are plenty of games that look better than others.


----------



## WJonathan

OK, I got things mixed up then. But isn't there some sort of brightness setting in the 360's setup software that helps with component cables?


----------



## giderac

Anyone know the best way to connect a pc to this tv? I have a 7900 gtx, right now the best picture i can get is usin a dvi-hdmi cable set at 1280x720 under 720p mode. Can correct the overscan using nividia control panel, however resolutions higher than this under 1080i mode give a very blurry image. Anyone know any custom powerstrip resolutions/timings that work well?


----------



## timrh23

Hi All...Am considering selling my 960 and wanted to gauge folks' interest. The set was ISF calibrated by Kevin Miller (isftv.com) and is in perfect working order. There is no physical wear anywhere and I have not used the remote since day one as I have a Universal. Email me at [email protected] if any interest. TV is located in NJ.


----------



## naisho

Hello everyone,


Long time lurker, first time poster. I recently discovered the huge following for the KD-34XBR960 and decided to try and find one in my area. I had a sale fall through and am waiting to hear from another who doesn't seem to be checking his email.


Right now there is one KD-34XBR960 for sale in my area (Metro Detroit) for $400. I'm trying to buy it but as I said, I never hear back from the seller.


I'm asking here because this is a forum of people who take care of their technology. Is there anyone in the Detroit area who is selling their KD-34XBR960?


Thanks


----------



## PhilipO38

Hey guys i need some advise,


Myself and my wife are looking for a larger HDTV for the LR, but i rarely have free time(i watch my 5 yr old who has autism), so i'm hoping someone here can give me some solid advise.


We are looking in the 40"-46" range or so, and now that the LED's have arrived, i'm wondering how those compare to the XBR960, especially for gaming, since i'm a major video gamer(360,PS3,Wii..ect).


Also i'm wondering how the black levels compare as well as contrast levels.


The HDTV's i have my eyes on are the Panasonic [Plasma] Viesta series(i believe these claim a 2,000,000:1, dark level), as well as the Samsung LED's of 40" and 46".


What worries me about the LED's is these are 120Hz compared to the 600Hz of the Plasma's.


After all i don't want to waste some $2000 on a HDTV that has blurring artifacts, when i can still get by with my XBR960 which has no blurring whatsoever.


So guys, besides the Kuro line of Plasma's, which large HDTV set is comparable or has better quality then the XBR960?


It's amazing that the XBR960 still holds it's own and more, against most HDTV's on the market, some 4 years after i bought it.


Thanks in advance,


Phil


----------



## TomGreen321

Buy the best Panasonic plasma you can and be done with it. Only negative in my opinion will be colour accuracy. Which after fixing the colour decoder in the service menu on all of the Sony CRT's is almost unrivaled by todays digitals.


The smaller screen size hides quite abit, I bet you'll never look back. Just make sure it's a quality, name brand and you'll be set. My CRT will be sent to the bed room as soon as we can justify the cost of "upgrading".


----------



## fogcity

I too would like to know what is comparable to the 960 these days, especially if people can relate stories of side-by-side comparisons.


For my part, I bought a 42" Panasonic plasma tv, and after calibrating it was shocked at how it was barely comparable to my old 27" Mitsubishi CRT. Lots of blurring and poor color accuracy, especially noticeable on closeups of faces (which often looked like they were smeared with calamine lotion), which my CRT had no problem delivering sharply and accurately. Despite lots of calibration, the blacks were always crushed; apparently the general public is fine with no detail in the shadow areas of a picture, as long as the blacks are super black?? Weird.


I tried all sorts of material, from SD broadcasts on up to BluRay. Same problem throughout. So I sold the plasma and eventually bought the 960. Instant satisfaction. Even without calibration, the colors were vivid AND accurate, the details sharp yet not hyped, the blacks rich and deep without muddying up the picture. And, no need to ONLY watch BluRay -- even SD material looks good.


That said, there are some convergence problems around the edges of the picture, it is subject to interference from nearby speakers, and I'd love a larger picture. So, if/when things have progressed to where an equivalent PQ is possible on a sub-$2000 plasma/lcd, I'd make the switch. Any informed insight as to the state of things would be welcome.


----------



## azideam

"Even without calibration, the colors were vivid AND accurate, the details sharp yet not hyped, the blacks rich and deep without muddying up the picture. And, no need to ONLY watch BluRay -- even SD material looks good."


SD looks especially good coming from an Oppo 983 on the SFP tube! Love this set!!!


----------



## unclepauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fogcity* /forum/post/16725492
> 
> 
> I too would like to know what is comparable to the 960 these days, especially if people can relate stories of side-by-side comparisons.
> 
> 
> For my part, I bought a 42" Panasonic plasma tv, and after calibrating it was shocked at how it was barely comparable to my old 27" Mitsubishi CRT. Lots of blurring and poor color accuracy, especially noticeable on closeups of faces (which often looked like they were smeared with calamine lotion), which my CRT had no problem delivering sharply and accurately. Despite lots of calibration, the blacks were always crushed; apparently the general public is fine with no detail in the shadow areas of a picture, as long as the blacks are super black?? Weird.
> 
> 
> I tried all sorts of material, from SD broadcasts on up to BluRay. Same problem throughout. So I sold the plasma and eventually bought the 960. Instant satisfaction. Even without calibration, the colors were vivid AND accurate, the details sharp yet not hyped, the blacks rich and deep without muddying up the picture. And, no need to ONLY watch BluRay -- even SD material looks good.
> 
> 
> That said, there are some convergence problems around the edges of the picture, it is subject to interference from nearby speakers, and I'd love a larger picture. So, if/when things have progressed to where an equivalent PQ is possible on a sub-$2000 plasma/lcd, I'd make the switch. Any informed insight as to the state of things would be welcome.



You may be waiting until OLED tech becomes more prevalent I think.


----------



## DJF(NJ)

I agree mostly with TomGreen. The Panny plasma's look terrific and are not that expensive IMO. My friends father has one of the newer 50" mid level units and movies look very good on it. Havent seen games on it however. 2 of my friends have LCDs(non LEDs) from Sammy and Sony with the 120hz motion and I think for games they look very good. More detail than on the 960, but of course black levels and colors do not compare. For movies however, I think they look awful. That 120hz thing makes film based material look like it was shot on video and there is still smearing(though only noticeable to the most discerning eye). If it were me, I would go with the newer Panny plasmas. Hope this helps.


----------



## PM720

Hi, newbie here and just found this forum while researching an issue that just cropped up tonight. I was watching a movie when the volume just started increasing by itself to max. I could not control it with the remote. If I turn the TV off and back on it would be OK for a few minutes and then start all over. I have tried cycling the main power off for 15-20 minutes and 3 different sets of batteries in the remote. Also, I can't use the remote unless it is less than a foot away from the tv. If I mute it after a few seconds it takes itself off mute and increases the volume. I am pretty sure at least one of these sets of batteries are fully charged (Sanyo Eneloops). It does this with batteries in or out of the remote.







I have had my 960 for about a year now and love it. Any ideas?


Thanks in advance,


Scott


----------



## why?

I was given a 960 but the picture has a reddish make up effect especially with lighter skin people on screen. Does this mean that I need a new picture tube or is this a problem that can be remedy in the service menu?


----------



## Summit HDTV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *why?* /forum/post/16734761
> 
> 
> I was given a 960 but the picture has a reddish make up effect especially with lighter skin people on screen. Does this mean that I need a new picture tube or is this a problem that can be remedy in the service menu?



Greetings,


Has it always been there? It could be a misaligned color decoder (Red push) or grayscale. Both are correctable in the SM, though you need special equipment to tackle the grayscale. Search the Sony service codes thread for color decoder correction. Make sure the Advanced User setting is set to Monitor, not Default.


Regards


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Still think the 960 offers the best HD picture available in any format - CRT, Plasma, LCD, DLP, etc. One does need to have the set properly callibrated. As was the case with others, some factory settings in the service menu for 1080i (HDMI) and 480p (component) were off from the settings specified by SONY under the service code chart. Having them set properly made a world of difference.


----------



## mjrgamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/16735338
> 
> 
> Still think the 960 offers the best HD picture available in any format - CRT, Plasma, LCD, DLP, etc. One does need to have the set properly callibrated. As was the case with others, some factory settings in the service menu for 1080i (HDMI) and 480p (component) were off from the settings specified by SONY under the service code chart. Having them set properly made a world of difference.



I think the color is the most accurate on the XBR960, the Kuro Pioneer plasma is quite amazing I would call it an XBR910 close to a 960 if it had better secondary colors.


----------



## why?




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Summit HDTV* /forum/post/16735105
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Has it always been there? It could be a misaligned color decoder (Red push) or grayscale. Both are correctable in the SM, though you need special equipment to tackle the grayscale. Search early in this thread for color decoder correction. Make sure the Advanced User setting is set to Monitor, not Default.
> 
> 
> Regards



Well I just got the tv yesterday but the previous owner said this reddish makeup effect started in the last few months. I am going to check out the color decoder correction and yes it is set to monitor.


Thank you for the help.


----------



## Summit HDTV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *why?* /forum/post/16735905
> 
> 
> Well I just got the tv yesterday but the previous owner said this reddish makeup effect started in the last few months. I am going to check out the color decoder correction and yes it is set to monitor.
> 
> 
> Thank you for the help.



Greetings,


I found the links in the _Sony service codes_ thread. Here's a few links for Red Push and the Sony color decoder. Be aware any venture into the SM is risky. You'll need the proper test patterns to adjust color/hue and the color decoder, as well as knowledge of the Sony SM. Record all current values before changing anything. Remember to WRITE the settings else they'll be lost after exiting the SM.

Look here http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post5906123 


and here http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post7356776 


and here http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post7949944 


You'll see some variance between various users' values associated with a correctly aligned color decoder. As every set has a certain personality this should be expected. The red and green color decoder settings above only make sense when the color and tint (hue) are set to proper. You'll need the DVE filters, or better yet use the blue/red/green gun isolation technique (RGBS) described above.


Regards


----------



## PM720




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PM720* /forum/post/16733338
> 
> 
> Hi, newbie here and just found this forum while researching an issue that just cropped up tonight. I was watching a movie when the volume just started increasing by itself to max. I could not control it with the remote. If I turn the TV off and back on it would be OK for a few minutes and then start all over. I have tried cycling the main power off for 15-20 minutes and 3 different sets of batteries in the remote. Also, I can't use the remote unless it is less than a foot away from the tv. If I mute it after a few seconds it takes itself off mute and increases the volume. I am pretty sure at least one of these sets of batteries are fully charged (Sanyo Eneloops). It does this with batteries in or out of the remote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have had my 960 for about a year now and love it. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> 
> Scott



NM. Rule of thumb, when you get rid of old TV's, get rid of the remotes too!










Scott


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Summit HDTV* /forum/post/16736271
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> I found the links in the _Sony service codes_ thread. Here's a few links for Red Push and the Sony color decoder. Be aware any venture into the SM is risky. You'll need the proper test patterns to adjust color/hue and the color decoder, as well as knowledge of the Sony SM. Record all current values before changing anything. Remember to WRITE the settings else they'll be lost after exiting the SM.
> 
> Look here http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post5906123
> 
> 
> and here http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post7356776
> 
> 
> and here http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post7949944
> 
> 
> You'll see some variance between various users' values associated with a correctly aligned color decoder. As every set has a certain personality this should be expected. The red and green color decoder settings above only make sense when the color and tint (hue) are set to proper. You'll need the DVE filters, or better yet use the blue/red/green gun isolation technique (RGBS) described above.
> 
> 
> Regards



Just be sure that the service codes you refer to are for the 960 since there are spreadsheets for the 955 and other models as well.


If you want to make geometric or overscan adjustments, it might be better using patterns from a source other than the internal one stored in the 960. I have an external HD pattern which allowed me to make the proper geometric adjustments. With these settings I checked to see how the internal pattern on the 960 looked and found the set's cross-hatch pattern to be quite distorted. At least in my case adjusting the geometry based on this internal pattern created a terriably distorted picture on video 7 - fortunately I had all my settings written down so there was no cause for alarm.


----------



## JA Fant

Greetings,


this is my first post on this fine TV. I have had my Sony for 4 years now with no problems.


----------



## mjrgamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JA Fant* /forum/post/16737130
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> this is my first post on this fine TV. I have had my Sony for 4 years now with no problems.



It should last 6-10 more.







If you want to keep it that long. I have 2 XBR 960's have to sell one DAMN. Have to get that Kuro that is in my dreams.


----------



## Summit HDTV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/16737089
> 
> 
> Just be sure that the service codes you refer to are for the 960 since there are spreadsheets for the 955 and other models as well.
> 
> 
> If you want to make geometric or overscan adjustments, it might be better using patterns from a source other than the internal one stored in the 960.



Greetings,


Thanks for the clarification. The values posted should be considered starting values only, which is why I mentioned variance between users' values. Also you need the correct external test pattern and knowledge to first set color/hue, then tackle the remaining color decoder (red, green).


Personally I always use external test patterns either from my HD generator or from a DVD player, whichever is applicable. My Sencore HD generator has a fantastic convergence pattern that I used to dial-in the convergence on our 960.


Regards


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Summit HDTV* /forum/post/16738385
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the clarification. The values posted should be considered starting values only, which is why I mentioned variance between users' values. Also you need the correct external test pattern and knowledge to first set color/hue, then tackle the remaining color decoder (red, green).
> 
> 
> Personally I always use external test patterns either from my HD generator or from a DVD player, whichever is applicable. My Sencore HD generator has a fantastic convergence pattern that I used to dial-in the convergence on our 960.
> 
> 
> Regards



When first using one of those charts, I indeed made the mistake of referring to the one for the 955. I later changed all my settings back to the "starting values" for the 960. But I had written down the original factory settings and was able to still see that many callibrated by the technician were way off.


Worst was overscan. The picture was noticbly off-center and very much out of proportion, just making it to 5% on one side and 10% on the the other side plus the top and bottom. Of course the stretched picture also affected focus, edge enhancement, geometry (both full and wide-zoom modes), etc.


Overall, the starting values were indeed much closer in achieving optimum picture quality than were the callibrations made at the factory. Besides the obvious errors in judgement, I wonder if the technician also didn't finalize some settings or accidentally pressed the up/down buttons changing the category he was working on and therefore entering an inappropriate value.


----------



## Kool-aid23

Just wondering, I've checked the old threads about the anti-glare coat on this set. I'm wondering how everyone's coats are doing? Mine is starting to come off. I read some of the comments one how to remove it but I'm nervous going that way. Any comments? Thanks


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kool-aid23* /forum/post/16743343
> 
> 
> Just wondering, I've checked the old threads about the anti-glare coat on this set. I'm wondering how everyone's coats are doing? Mine is starting to come off. I read some of the comments one how to remove it but I'm nervous going that way. Any comments? Thanks



Six or seven months ago a portion about an inch and a half wide and third of inch deep came off mine. It's about an inch from the top and perhaps seven inches off the left. It is only noticable at certain viewing angles and when so, appears like the usual glare that is reflected off the glass (minus the unusual shape). There is no distortion in color, etc. and, of course, the only person bothered by it is me.


This happened when I used the equivalent of "glass plus" instead of water (because it leaves streaks). Using a rag instead of a paper towel didn't help, either.


Needless to say, I'm just as nervous as you attempting to remove the coating and don't know if it would be a good idea anyone because the 960 would then be left without any anti-glare protection at all. So I'm just using a wet paper towel followed by a dry one to clean the screen.


BTW - is the coating susceptable to damage as the set gets older or is it just a matter of cleaning it properly?


----------



## Kool-aid23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/16743659
> 
> 
> Six or seven months ago a portion about an inch and a half wide and third of inch deep came off mine. It's about an inch from the top and perhaps seven inches off the left. It is only noticable at certain viewing angles and when so, appears like the usual glare that is reflected off the glass (minus the unusual shape). There is no distortion in color, etc. and, of course, the only person bothered by it is me.
> 
> 
> This happened when I used the equivalent of "glass plus" instead of water (because it leaves streaks). Using a rag instead of a paper towel didn't help, either.
> 
> 
> Needless to say, I'm just as nervous as you attempting to remove the coating and don't know if it would be a good idea anyone because the 960 would then be left without any anti-glare protection at all. So I'm just using a wet paper towel followed by a dry one to clean the screen.
> 
> 
> BTW - is the coating susceptable to damage as the set gets older or is it just a matter of cleaning it properly?




I'm not sure about the coat with age. However, I was just using a cloth on my set and it's starting to come off. As for not having the coat at all, a few other Sony crt models don't have any coating so I'm not too concerned about that. I just wish there was an easier way to remove it.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kool-aid23* /forum/post/16744147
> 
> 
> I'm not sure about the coat with age. However, I was just using a cloth on my set and it's starting to come off. As for not having the coat at all, a few other Sony crt models don't have any coating so I'm not too concerned about that. I just wish there was an easier way to remove it.



Yuck, that means even dusting the screen makes the coating apt to coming off?


----------



## mjrgamer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/16745594
> 
> 
> Yuck, that means even dusting the screen makes the coating apt to coming off?



I have 2 of these sets and no coating issues. Do you fellow owners have the 960N version?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mjrgamer* /forum/post/16746587
> 
> 
> I have 2 of these sets and no coating issues. Do you fellow owners have the 960N version?



If we had the 960N, there would be no on-screen coating to deal with.


----------



## amazin

Anyone looking to remove the anti-glare coating can give this solution a go that I discovered just a few months back. I'll just copy and paste my solution to the problem from another thread...



"After seeing this thread get revived once again I decided to give it one more go in trying to get the anti-glare coating completely removed. Again, I was told that there was more than one way in which they applied the coating to this set and from my experience there was no window tint like material applied to the screen. It was more like a coating that was sprayed on. Having removed about 2/3 of the coating with Oops! solvent I could not put a dent in the remaining 1/3 of the screen and had given up hope as I had tried a number of different methods and chemicals as well. After about 9 months of thinking that it was a lost cause I am happy today to report that the coating has been completely removed and the screen looks just as smooth and clear as the 34XBR970 does without the anti-glare coating. The solution was, believe it or not, Steel Wool Grade #0000. This stuff worked like a charm and did not leave a single scratch. I can now fully enjoy one of the finest TVs ever made in the Super-Fine Pitch 34XBR960 once again."


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *amazin* /forum/post/16749022
> 
> 
> Anyone looking to remove the anti-glare coating can give this solution a go that I discovered just a few months back. I'll just copy and paste my solution to the problem from another thread...
> 
> 
> 
> "After seeing this thread get revived once again I decided to give it one more go in trying to get the anti-glare coating completely removed. Again, I was told that there was more than one way in which they applied the coating to this set and from my experience there was no window tint like material applied to the screen. It was more like a coating that was sprayed on. Having removed about 2/3 of the coating with Oops! solvent I could not put a dent in the remaining 1/3 of the screen and had given up hope as I had tried a number of different methods and chemicals as well. After about 9 months of thinking that it was a lost cause I am happy today to report that the coating has been completely removed and the screen looks just as smooth and clear as the 34XBR970 does without the anti-glare coating. The solution was, believe it or not, Steel Wool Grade #0000. This stuff worked like a charm and did not leave a single scratch. I can now fully enjoy one of the finest TVs ever made in the Super-Fine Pitch 34XBR960 once again."



Thanks for the update and glad all went well removing the remaining third of your coating. Guess if one wants to play it safe, we can pay the fee and have a SONY service technician come over and remove it.


----------



## Kool-aid23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *amazin* /forum/post/16749022
> 
> 
> Anyone looking to remove the anti-glare coating can give this solution a go that I discovered just a few months back. I'll just copy and paste my solution to the problem from another thread...
> 
> 
> 
> "After seeing this thread get revived once again I decided to give it one more go in trying to get the anti-glare coating completely removed. Again, I was told that there was more than one way in which they applied the coating to this set and from my experience there was no window tint like material applied to the screen. It was more like a coating that was sprayed on. Having removed about 2/3 of the coating with Oops! solvent I could not put a dent in the remaining 1/3 of the screen and had given up hope as I had tried a number of different methods and chemicals as well. After about 9 months of thinking that it was a lost cause I am happy today to report that the coating has been completely removed and the screen looks just as smooth and clear as the 34XBR970 does without the anti-glare coating. The solution was, believe it or not, Steel Wool Grade #0000. This stuff worked like a charm and did not leave a single scratch. I can now fully enjoy one of the finest TVs ever made in the Super-Fine Pitch 34XBR960 once again."



Wow! Congrats as well. If all possible, could you please post some pictures of your set without the coat. Thanks


----------



## Kool-aid23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/16749300
> 
> 
> Thanks for the update and glad all went well removing the remaining third of your coating. Guess if one wants to play it safe, we can pay the fee and have a SONY service technician come over and remove it.



I wasn't aware that was possible. (wouldn't that void warranty etc.) Have you heard of anyone using this option? If so, how much are they asking?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kool-aid23* /forum/post/16749779
> 
> 
> I wasn't aware that was possible. (wouldn't that void warranty etc.) Have you heard of anyone using this option? If so, how much are they asking?



That was just a guess on my part but if owners have been able to remove the coating am sure the service people can do the same as well. Have no idea how much it would cost.


Also wouldn't worry about voiding any warranty - it's been more than two years since most any authorized dealer has sold a 960 so warranties have long since expired for all of us except those who purchased extended ones.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi,


Are there any guidlines in setting service codes for sources like VHS with composite video cable (RCA) that is less than 480i? Should I simply set them to those for 480p? Also, would this too be independent of settings for 480/720/1080?


Thanx as always,

Joe


----------



## VR6

On board now my own XBR960,scored for a $100 bucks!


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Congratulations, VR6. At $100 you got the steal of the century!


Just a suggestion but it won't hurt to once in a while unplug your 960 for about ten minutes (even if the degauser is working fine) I find this insures the set retaining it's great picture quality (this evening I thought the picture suddenly appeared less vibrant -- it returned to all it's glory after unplugging).


Don't completely understand why, but I guess like the semi-computer it is, the 960needs an ocassional re-booting.


----------



## Miles CRT

Hi All. Thanks for the good reading. I can hardly believe this thread is so long. I've been seaching Craigslist for a replacement TV and found the info here helpful.


I bought a 960 Today in part to replace an older (2001) 36" XBR that quit working and to be able to watch over-the-air TV in it's HD and digital goodness. That said, I'll mostly be watching DVDs and someday Blu-rays.


The picture _is_ better than the older set which I'm guessing is the Super Fine pitch and the HDMI input. I'm very happy with the image quality. I'm working on getting the settings right on my own as I don't think I'll pay for calibration. May be I'll post up some questions, later, for now I think I go see how another favorite DVD looks.


Found in San Diego. Paid $300 for a Feb 2005 model with stand, remote, and paper work.


----------



## unclepauly

Even though it may seem weird to pay more for calibration than for the TV itself, if you are remotely anywhere near being a stickler for PQ, it is totally worth it to get this set calibrated by someone who does the full runthrough. Overscan reduction, convergence, gamma, geometry, grayscale, colorpoints... If there is any TV out there that would show a huge difference from a calibration I think this TV would be it. A calibration basically nets you mini-kuro performance(some say even better).


----------



## Miles CRT

Thanks for the reply and encouragement. I don't know enough about some of the benefits of calibration that you mentioned so I'll do a little more research and try my luck with a THX demo (?) from a Disney movie for now.


As it is, I've had a bit of trouble getting a circle to look like a circle with the different settings on my DVD player and TV with 16X9 settings. Monkeying around was fun and effective.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Miles CRT* /forum/post/16807895
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply and encouragement. I don't know enough about some of the benefits of calibration that you mentioned so I'll do a little more research and try my luck with a THX demo (?) from a Disney movie for now.
> 
> 
> As it is, I've had a bit of trouble getting a circle to look like a circle with the different settings on my DVD player and TV with 16X9 settings. Monkeying around was fun and effective.



Miles,


It would be best to get a set-up DVD that has a 16x9crosshatch pattern for one can't get proper geometry using the circle on the THX optomizer or a test pattern that's 4x3.


Then go to the Sony Service Code forum. There's a post by Ken Tech with a table of contents and you will find ones for geometry and overscan. Do the overscan first because that affects geometry.


Also remember settings for contrast, black level, color etc. will be different for 480p via component compared to 1080i via HDMI. The THX optomizer will be fine for 480p (that's what I used) and if you go bluray, you'll probably be able to get a similar set-up disc to help with those (I saved the HD patterns broadcast on the old INHD channel on my DVR - too bad no HD station has a similar broadcast).


For even more precision color settings, go to THX.COM and order one or two pairs of blue-filter glasses (only a few dollars each) for use with all color patterns both 480p and 1080i.

Best of luck,

Joe


----------



## Summit HDTV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/16805850
> 
> 
> Even though it may seem weird to pay more for calibration than for the TV itself, if you are remotely anywhere near being a stickler for PQ, it is totally worth it to get this set calibrated by someone who does the full runthrough. Overscan reduction, convergence, gamma, geometry, grayscale, colorpoints... If there is any TV out there that would show a huge difference from a calibration I think this TV would be it. A calibration basically nets you mini-kuro performance(some say even better).



Greetings,


You bet! The color points are define via the phosphors, but the color decoder is fully adjustable on this set.


Regards


----------



## Summit HDTV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Miles CRT* /forum/post/16805519
> 
> 
> Hi All. Thanks for the good reading. I can hardly believe this thread is so long. I've been seaching Craigslist for a replacement TV and found the info here helpful.
> 
> 
> I bought a 960 Today in part to replace an older (2001) 36" XBR that quit working and to be able to watch over-the-air TV in it's HD and digital goodness. That said, I'll mostly be watching DVDs and someday Blu-rays.
> 
> 
> The picture _is_ better than the older set which I'm guessing is the Super Fine pitch and the HDMI input. I'm very happy with the image quality. I'm working on getting the settings right on my own as I don't think I'll pay for calibration. May be I'll post up some questions, later, for now I think I go see how another favorite DVD looks.
> 
> 
> Found in San Diego. Paid $300 for a Feb 2005 model with stand, remote, and paper work.



Greetings ,


Congrats on the new set! There is much information here regarding this set. Enjoy!


Regards


----------



## unclepauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Summit HDTV* /forum/post/16809217
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> 
> You bet! The color points are define via the phosphors, but the color decoder is fully adjustable on this set.
> 
> 
> Regards



sorry, yes that's what I meant, the color decoder


----------



## Summit HDTV

Greetings,


The KV-34XBR960 as unclepauly said calibrates well and is eye candy thereafter! Here's the calibration report from our display. Even before grayscale and screen gamma calibration it was a pleasure to watch, but now it's just HD glory.


Regards

 

Sony%20KV-34XBR960.pdf 165.021484375k . file


----------



## Joseph Dubin

It just occured to me.


When we get a new DVD player (either upconverting or bluray) does that mean upconverted 4x3 films dubbed onto DVD will no longer be able to be viewed in wide-zoom unless we turn off the player's 1080i output?


Not that I think the picture quality for standard definition will be better than what we get using the 960's line-doubler.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/16817135
> 
> 
> It just occured to me.
> 
> 
> When we get a new DVD player (either upconverting or bluray) does that mean upconverted 4x3 films dubbed onto DVD will no longer be able to be viewed in wide-zoom unless we turn off the player's 1080i output?
> 
> 
> Not that I think the picture quality for standard definition will be better than what we get using the 960's line-doubler.



My 34HS510 fixes the screen mode at FULL when 1080i or 720p are input, but I believe some of the later models allow other screen modes to be selected with HD input resolutions. ??


I doubt there are many upconverting players that can do a better job than the integrated DRC/MID at upconverting SD DVD to 1080i for display.


Bluray, that's a different story. Me want one.







Do the Bluray players upconvert or can they output 480 for SD DVD?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/16818488
> 
> 
> My 34HS510 fixes the screen mode at FULL when 1080i or 720p are input, but I believe some of the later models allow other screen modes to be selected with HD input resolutions. ??



- Not with the 960 - 1080i upconverted from the cable box only displayed 4x3 or full - no wide zoom.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/16818488
> 
> 
> I doubt there are many upconverting players that can do a better job than the integrated DRC/MID at upconverting SD DVD to 1080i for display.



I agree 100%. If you think DVDs look fantastic using the DRC, wait till you see them ouput at 480p. While a 480p input does not allow use of the digital reality pallete, progressive scan does provide a smoother picture with no flickering.


Most sets just can't match the 960's line doubler. Recently saw Peter Jackson's "King Kong" demonstrated in SD on a brand name LCD - it paled compared to the sharpness and detail of the Sony.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii16818488* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bluray, that's a different story. Me want one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do the Bluray players upconvert or can they output 480 for SD DVD?



They can also output at 480 which is probably what I would want based on the Sony's great upconverting. In fact, standard DVDs appear with so much detail that I'm in no rush to get a bluray until the prices of the players and discs are compatible with those for DVD.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/16818805
> 
> 
> - ..... In fact, standard DVDs appear with so much detail that I'm in no rush to get a bluray until the prices of the players and discs are compatible with those for DVD.



The exact same reasons I am waiting.


----------



## TomGreen321

Seriously, I thought the same thing, but Blu-ray will look insane on any of these Sony CRT's. It's not even close, at all. Especially anything from pixar.


----------



## unclepauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/16818805
> 
> 
> - Not with the 960 - 1080i upconverted from the cable box only displayed 4x3 or full - no wide zoom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I agree 100%. If you think DVDs look fantastic using the DRC, wait till you see them ouput at 480p. While a 480p input does not allow use of the digital reality pallete, progressive scan does provide a smoother picture with no flickering.
> 
> 
> Most sets just can't match the 960's line doubler. Recently saw Peter Jackson's "King Kong" demonstrated in SD on a brand name LCD - it paled compared to the sharpness and detail of the Sony.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They can also output at 480 which is probably what I would want based on the Sony's great upconverting. In fact, standard DVDs appear with so much detail that I'm in no rush to get a bluray until the prices of the players and discs are compatible with those for DVD.



Dude I hear ya. DVD's look so good on this thing that I'm actually offended by an LCD's audacity at trying to display an SDDVD. Flabbergasted even. I warn you though, once you see Blu-ray on this beast....


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/16819238
> 
> 
> Dude I hear ya. DVD's look so good on this thing that I'm actually offended by an LCD's audacity at trying to display an SDDVD. Flabbergasted even. I warn you though, once you see Blu-ray on this beast....



Hi Guys,


No doubt bluray will look best on what I still believe is the greatest TV around - the 960. But because 480p looks so much better compared to other sets (due to the 960's line doubler) the difference between DVD and bluray is less apparent. I've also read articles stating bluray is not so vital for CRTs in general as it is for larger flat screens.


I tend to agree. On those side by side demonstrations, smaller details are always sharper on the bluray portion versus that for DVD. But I also know that similiar small details on the 960 never appear as soft as I see on the demos and that the overall picture quality is always better (am sure standard definition on these demos are always in 480i and with no upconversion).


I'm not saying bluray won't look better than DVD but that the difference between the two is to a lesser degree on the 960. Hence, no urge to upgrade at this time.


----------



## unclepauly

don't forget, color fidelity and color/shadow gradation are also superior on blu-ray. To me that is more important than the higher detail.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/16819761
> 
> 
> don't forget, color fidelity and color/shadow gradation are also superior on blu-ray. To me that is more important than the higher detail.



Actually, the demostration showed the least differential in the areas you mentioned.


Again, it's not so much a debate between bluray and DVD - obviously 1080i resolution will always be better than 480p, upconverted or otherwise (unless, of course, if the source material itself is not re-mastered properly). I'm just saying the 960 closes that gap much more than a larger flat screen, not only because 480 resolution loses more detail as the screen gets larger but by being a CRT, we're getting the best black and contrast levels possible which has profound effects on color and shadow.


----------



## unclepauly

yes I agree about the color and shadow looking leagues better on this set and also on the point about this set closing the gap in quality with hd material. Now I will leave you be.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/16819867
> 
> 
> yes I agree about the color and shadow looking leagues better on this set and also on the point about this set closing the gap in quality with hd material. Now I will leave you be.



Pauly,


Enjoyed the exchange.










Our dentist recently purchased a 52 inch LCD. He also needed a new player so got bluray (am sure he was able to afford both due to my wife's continuing dental problems). He said he hasn't noticed enough difference between the two formats to justify one getting bluray if one's old player doesn't need to be replaced.


Agree with you that unlike the 960, he should see a major jump in picture quality. I wonder if his user settings are adjusted properly or if his set needs to be callibrated. Forgot the brand but it's also a possibility he just didn't get the best of monitors, either.


----------



## TomGreen321




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/16820223
> 
> 
> Pauly,
> 
> 
> Enjoyed the exchange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Our dentist recently purchased a 52 inch LCD. He also needed a new player so got bluray (am sure he was able to afford both due to my wife's continuing dental problems). He said he hasn't noticed enough difference between the two formats to justify one getting bluray if one's old player doesn't need to be replaced.
> 
> 
> Agree with you that unlike the 960, he should see a major jump in picture quality. I wonder if his user settings are adjusted properly or if his set needs to be callibrated. Forgot the brand but it's also a possibility he just didn't get the best of monitors, either.



The difference between the 960 and new mid-range(and up) Flat Panels is extremely small, at best. This isn't 2-3 years ago. Digital displays have closed the gap. I'll give you 480p being better on CRT's, but very few care about that, nor should they.


The 960 might have mighty fine "Line Doubling", but it doesn't make up for a lack of detail in the source. Buy a Blu-ray player from a store with a generous return policy, and use it for a few weeks. You'll never go back to DVD.


That is if your TV is setup properly.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TomGreen321* /forum/post/16820595
> 
> 
> The difference between the 960 and new mid-range(and up) Flat Panels is extremely small, at best. This isn't 2-3 years ago. Digital displays have closed the gap.



Hi Tom,


Yes, flat panels have come a long way. I read where LCDs that are LED backlit now have excellent contrast ratios and black levels. Also understand the new OLED technology is really something but who wants an eleven-inch set?


However, flat panels still have their limitations. Even with LED backlights, Crutchfield notes that LCD pictures still appear slightly less natural than top model plasmas. Also, the contrast ratios and black levels for both Plasma and LCDs with standard backlits are still only listed as "good".


While all screens are two dimensional, the big advantage CRT has over flat panel is depth for those all lack a three-dimensional feel found in tubes.


Interesting question: How does the gap between CRT and flat panels compare to that of bluray to DVD as viewed on the 960?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TomGreen321* /forum/post/16820595
> 
> 
> I'll give you 480p being better on CRT's, but very few care about that, nor should they.



Unless they have large DVD collections.


----------



## philexile

Hello,


I just picked one of these sets up and I was searching around for the service manual. Can anyone here point me in the direction of where it is available for download?


Thank you!


----------



## Ennui

You can start here for some info.


I paid for my service manual but that was many years ago.

http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/mod...mdl=KD34XBR960 


Good luck.


----------



## Ennui

servicemanuals.net


----------



## jdre

 http://www.schematicsforfree.com/archive/dir/Sony/Video , it is the first TV listed.


----------



## philexile

Hello,


Thanks! I'm actually going to try to use this in order to fix the overscan, as well as some mild distortion towards the bottom right-hand corner of the screen and at the top.


At the top, the picture looks a little crooked in a way, almost like the upper left side is the bottom of a very shallow hill and it gradually gets highter as you got to the right. I think this is a convergence issue.


Does anyone here have any experience in making such adjustments to this model? I want to make sure I have as much info as possible before attempting this.


Thanks again


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *philexile* /forum/post/16841139
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> Thanks! I'm actually going to try to use this in order to fix the overscan, as well as some mild distortion towards the bottom right-hand corner of the screen and at the top.
> 
> 
> At the top, the picture looks a little crooked in a way, almost like the upper left side is the bottom of a very shallow hill and it gradually gets highter as you got to the right. I think this is a convergence issue.
> 
> 
> Does anyone here have any experience in making such adjustments to this model? I want to make sure I have as much info as possible before attempting this.
> 
> 
> Thanks again



Words to live by in the service menu: Write down the settings before you make any changes and don't, DON'T, attempt ANY type of reset in the service mode.


There is not reset back to your starting point available, so be careful. Practice moving through the service menu a little before making any changes so that mistakes are not made. Move slowly and methodically.


Convergence has to do with convergence of the three color guns and is most easily adjusted using a pattern consisting of white crosshatch on a black background. Misconvergence presents itself as a primary color fringe seen along the edges of the white lines of the pattern.


The issues you mention are associated with geometry and are fairly straightforward. The Picture Distortion section of the service manual steps through the adjustments and provides a pictorial of the effect the parameter has on the presentation. A crosshatch pattern can be used for geometry as well. Its very difficult to make these tweaks without the appropriate patterns.


Overscan patterns are available as well. I have used both AVIA and DVE SD calibration DVDs with great success.


Good Luck


----------



## Influence

Over the past few months, I've noticed that when watching cable TV on my 960, if I switch from hi-def channels to standard def, it looks like I lose one of the primary colors and the picture takes on a strange greenish/purple tone. I thought it was my aging Comcast single tuner PVR box (DVI out to the HDMI in on the 960) and would just power off the cable box (while on an SD channel) and then power it back on and things would fix themselves, until I watched an HD channel and then tried to go back to SD again anyway.


Just last night I went to watch a DVD on this set for the first time on months and noticed that the picture off of the DVD was very green in overall tone. The DVD player is hooked up via component video. So it looks like the TV is the problem, not the cable box or DVD player.


Anyone experience a similar issue? If so, how was it resolved and more importantly what did it cost? Is my beloved 960 hosed for good?


Though it wouldn't be so bad to replace this set with a 42" G15 series Panasonic plasma


----------



## philexile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/16843128
> 
> 
> Words to live by in the service menu: Write down the settings before you make any changes and don't, DON'T, attempt ANY type of reset in the service mode.
> 
> 
> There is not reset back to your starting point available, so be careful. Practice moving through the service menu a little before making any changes so that mistakes are not made. Move slowly and methodically.
> 
> 
> Convergence has to do with convergence of the three color guns and is most easily adjusted using a pattern consisting of white crosshatch on a black background. Misconvergence presents itself as a primary color fringe seen along the edges of the white lines of the pattern.
> 
> 
> The issues you mention are associated with geometry and are fairly straightforward. The Picture Distortion section of the service manual steps through the adjustments and provides a pictorial of the effect the parameter has on the presentation. A crosshatch pattern can be used for geometry as well. Its very difficult to make these tweaks without the appropriate patterns.
> 
> 
> Overscan patterns are available as well. I have used both AVIA and DVE SD calibration DVDs with great success.
> 
> 
> Good Luck



Hello,


Thank you very much for this information. I will definitely check out that section of the service manual thoroughly and pick up the AVIA DVD to assist with the calibration.


I'll be sure to post again to let you know how it went.


All the best


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Influence* /forum/post/16843398
> 
> 
> Over the past few months, I've noticed that when watching cable TV on my 960, if I switch from hi-def channels to standard def, it looks like I lose one of the primary colors and the picture takes on a strange greenish/purple tone. I thought it was my aging Comcast single tuner PVR box (DVI out to the HDMI in on the 960) and would just power off the cable box (while on an SD channel) and then power it back on and things would fix themselves, until I watched an HD channel and then tried to go back to SD again anyway.
> 
> 
> Just last night I went to watch a DVD on this set for the first time on months and noticed that the picture off of the DVD was very green in overall tone. The DVD player is hooked up via component video. So it looks like the TV is the problem, not the cable box or DVD player.
> 
> 
> Anyone experience a similar issue? If so, how was it resolved and more importantly what did it cost? Is my beloved 960 hosed for good?
> 
> 
> Though it wouldn't be so bad to replace this set with a 42" G15 series Panasonic plasma



Just an uneducated guess but maybe it's the automatic degauser. Is your 960 plugged directly into a wall socket? Though not stated in the user manual, surge protectors limit the amount of electricity needed for the automatic degauser to kick in fully upon turning on the set. This can create magnetism which causes color distortation.


If you haven't as yet done so, unplug the 960 for about five minutes then plug it back directly to the wall socket- if it's a degaussing problem this should do the trick.


Hope this helps.


----------



## Influence

The degaussing didn't do the trick. Also, note that when I switch back to an HD channel, all of the colors are displaying properly. It's only SD signals that seem to be losing one of the primary colors.


It looks like something is wrong with whatever board controls the color reproduction to the individual tubes. Looks like I'll be calling a service tech, but I was hoping someone else might have seen this problem before so that I could get an estimate for what it would cost to fix.


----------



## Summit HDTV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *philexile* /forum/post/16841139
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> At the top, the picture looks a little crooked in a way, almost like the upper left side is the bottom of a very shallow hill and it gradually gets highter as you got to the right. I think this is a convergence issue.
> 
> 
> Does anyone here have any experience in making such adjustments to this model? I want to make sure I have as much info as possible before attempting this.
> 
> 
> Thanks again



Greetings,


If the (complete) image is tilted with respect to the horizontal axis then use the Tilt command in the user setup to correct the tilt. If only the top of the image is tilted and the bottom is straight then it's a geometry problem and is likely not correctable without magnets. The only exception to this is if the set has a trapezoid error, as that is correctable in the service menu. Convergence control in the XBR960 will not correct the problem outlined above.


Regards


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Influence* /forum/post/16847059
> 
> 
> ..... Also, note that when I switch back to an HD channel, all of the colors are displaying properly. It's only SD signals that seem to be losing one of the primary colors. ......



Is it a Motorola stb? My DCT6200 began having the same problem after a firmware update over a year ago. I had to set the 4:3 override (SD) to 480p, instead of 480i, to resolve the problem.


----------



## DSperber

Quote:

Originally Posted by *philexile* 
Does anyone here have any experience in making such adjustments to this model? I want to make sure I have as much info as possible before attempting this.
A few of us do.










Anyway, as has been already warned... you MUST WRITE DOWN all of your current settings (both User Menu and Service Menu) before doing any tweaking. That will at least give you something to fall back to if something doesn't go quite right, or if you decide you're not making progress in a positive direction, etc.


Just to help you out, I'm again posting the latest version of my XLS spreadsheet of all settings for my XBR960, for all inputs and resolutions. See the notes at the bottom (which describes the color coding scheme, how factory defaults are presented when customized values exist, and other useful facts), and notice that there is both (a) User Menu sheet, and (b) Service Menu sheet.


While my settings won't match your settings of course (e.g. I've had magnet work done that influences how my Service Menu geometry/convergence values came to be what they are), at least this spreadsheet can be used by you to very thoroughly and conveniently "write down" all of your current settings (in your own modified version of the XLS document).


Again, this is for MY own KD-34XBR960. Not necessarily yours.

 

kd-34xbr960.zip 24.2626953125k . file


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Is there any difference in picture quality using bluray through component rather than HDMI? With my SA 8300 HD DVR, HDMI is more vivid compared to component but that might be due to the box's tuner.


I know I can get a HDMI switch box, however, I do not want to change my HD user settings, hence, the preference for component.


Don't care about not being able to upconvert standard DVD since I'm happy with the 960's line-doubler.


No sense not going bluray when the time comes to replace my current dvd player.


----------



## schick81

I have a KD-34XBR960 that was built in July 2004. The other day while watching the cable input, I attempted to change channels and neither the up or down arrows on the remote would function. I then tried going to the channel I wanted by using the numeric keys and the enter button and I was successful accessing channels that way.


It was then that I went to the Channels menu and found that there were NO channels listed in the Show/Hide channels sub-palette. So, I initiated an Auto Program and waited just under an hour for the set to wend its way through the almost 400 analog and digital cable channels it found. I then spent another 30 minutes or so tediously labeling all the channels. Everything seemed normal.


Then about three days later, the same thing happened. The channel up or down button seemed stuck and all the channels were gone again, so I had to do another Auto Program to get the channels back.


It gets even worse. Friday afternoon, after experiencing the same problem and after unplugging the set from the wall socket just in case a 'reboot' was the solution, I ran another Auto Program and within 24 hours all of the cable channels were gone again.


What's really frustrating is that on the Antenna side of the turner, everything seems to be fine as I haven't lost any channels in the lineup. And, since I can tune in the channels directly with the remote, the cable channels seem to be there, it's just the 960 is having trouble remembering them.


One other quirk is that every time I run the Auto Program, it seems to find more digital channels (Cox Cable) than it did previously. Could the cable system be affecting the memory or is this more along the lines of an electronic component finally showing its age in this five-year-old set?


Even though I have a DVR that I mostly use for watching cable, it's still good to know that even if the DVR is tied up recording two HD channels, I can still use the 960's QAM tuner to watch a third HD show simultaneously.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *biswas* /forum/post/16864696
> 
> 
> Is this TV only 194 lbs like the Sony site says? I thought it was heavier than that. I'm interested in an Ikea stand that can only handle 220 lbs, so that would be an important consideration for me.



It's over 200 pounds and if you add the extra pound or so for a center speaker on top you might be coming close to the Ikea's maximum weight capability.


----------



## philexile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/16848373
> 
> 
> A few of us do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, as has been already warned... you MUST WRITE DOWN all of your current settings (both User Menu and Service Menu) before doing any tweaking. That will at least give you something to fall back to if something doesn't go quite right, or if you decide you're not making progress in a positive direction, etc.
> 
> 
> Just to help you out, I'm again posting the latest version of my XLS spreadsheet of all settings for my XBR960, for all inputs and resolutions. See the notes at the bottom (which describes the color coding scheme, how factory defaults are presented when customized values exist, and other useful facts), and notice that there is both (a) User Menu sheet, and (b) Service Menu sheet.
> 
> 
> While my settings won't match your settings of course (e.g. I've had magnet work done that influences how my Service Menu geometry/convergence values came to be what they are), at least this spreadsheet can be used by you to very thoroughly and conveniently "write down" all of your current settings (in your own modified version of the XLS document).
> 
> 
> Again, this is for MY own KD-34XBR960. Not necessarily yours.



Hello,


Thank you for this sheet, its amazing! It also made me realize this is way beyond my area of expertise!







I think I'm going to have a calibrator come out to tweak this to perfection for me. If you know of any guys in the NY area that are good, let me know.


I do have one question about the TV that you may be able to answer. Is there a way for it to display scanlines? I know that sounds crazy, but I have an old Sega Saturn, which outputs 240p 16khz. I'd like to be able to set the S-Video input on the back to not to scale the image up to 480p and just to display the original 240p signal at 480i, scanlines and all. I wasn't sure if this was a possibility with the service menu.


Anyway, I figured I would ask.


Thanks again!


----------



## lowjones

Hi,

Now that my broadcasts are digital do I need a converter for my xbr 960. If not how do I set it up?


Thanks


----------



## jdre

It's got an ATSC tuner, should work right off the air. See 34XBR960 manual at Sony website. It will open a pdf file in the browser, that you can save. You will need some kind of antenna depending on your location and what channels are receivable.


----------



## lowjones

Thanks JDRE..Went to link and downloaded the manual.


lowjones


----------



## giderac

So nobody really has an htpc hooked up to their 960? I'm still struggling to find good settings... 1280x720 is the highest i can go without getting a blurry desktop. I'm using a 7900GTX and a dvi-hdmi cable with latest nvidia drivers. Anyone know custom resolutions/timings for power strip etc? Also anybody know of a good ISF calibrator in the Central NJ area?


----------



## jdre

I'm fairly sure that your TV can display about 1200 pixels across the tube, where my 34HS510 is about 850, due to the phosphor stripes. See Ultimate AV mag review of 34XBR910.


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *giderac* /forum/post/16911206
> 
> 
> So nobody really has an htpc hooked up to their 960? I'm still struggling to find good settings... 1280x720 is the highest i can go without getting a blurry desktop. I'm using a 7900GTX and a dvi-hdmi cable with latest nvidia drivers. Anyone know custom resolutions/timings for power strip etc? Also anybody know of a good ISF calibrator in the Central NJ area?



I have tried every possible connector, Component, DVI/HDMI and HDMI with both Nvidia and ATI cards and drivers. 1280x720 is the best you will do. I resize the desktop as best I can and punch up the DPI a bit until reading text and browsing become at least tolerable. I'm afraid that's about the best you can hope for.


I haven't heard of any local guys here in NJ. Chad B. from Ohio does seem to make the trip to NJ a couple of times a year though.


----------



## DJF(NJ)




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *giderac* /forum/post/16911206
> 
> 
> So nobody really has an htpc hooked up to their 960? I'm still struggling to find good settings... 1280x720 is the highest i can go without getting a blurry desktop. I'm using a 7900GTX and a dvi-hdmi cable with latest nvidia drivers. Anyone know custom resolutions/timings for power strip etc? Also anybody know of a good ISF calibrator in the Central NJ area?



Your best bet would be to call/email Chad. IIRC, his website is HDTVbyChadB.com. He can tell you when he'll be out here next. I don't think he's here a few times a year, more like once a year. Or your could try Eliab from Avical or Kevin Miller, both in NJ. Kevin Miller at one time owned a 960. However, both of them will not do the geometry/magnet work, which Chad does.


----------



## RWetmore

Actually Chad is coming to NJ in a couple weeks. If he can fit me in his schedule, he's going to come and touch up my 960. He calibrated it about 3 years ago.


Contact him ASAP: [email protected]


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/16925216
> 
> 
> Actually Chad is coming to NJ in a couple weeks. If he can fit me in his schedule, he's going to come and touch up my 960. He calibrated it about 3 years ago.
> 
> 
> Contact him ASAP: [email protected]




This is so tempting. It is just really difficult to justify spending more than than the TV is worth to calibrate a TV for the bedroom. Damn, this is going to torture me for the next week...


----------



## unclepauly

Imo this TV worth way more than what they sell for. There's nothing out there that can touch it when calibrated.


----------



## Slinky11

Since 1440x1080 is the max resolution on this set is it possible to output a pc hdmi or component signal to it at that res?


Ah from reading here and the HTPC thread it would appear that 720p is the only proven solution. Does text and things become unreadable at higher res?


----------



## unclepauly

Interlacing is what causes the problem making it fuzzy so 720P > 540P is sharper.


----------



## WJonathan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Slinky11* /forum/post/16930922
> 
> 
> Since 1440x1080 is the max resolution on this set is it possible to output a pc hdmi or component signal to it at that res?
> 
> 
> Ah from reading here and the HTPC thread it would appear that 720p is the only proven solution. Does text and things become unreadable at higher res?



You can try it with extra large fonts and large icons on the desktop. And you can magnify IE explorer pages a little to help. Text on the 960 is legible at that resolution, but you'll wnat to keep dcouments centered on the screen as the edges blur a little like all widescreen CRTs.


For gaming, sending it 1920 x 1080 will be gorgeous. RPGs or strategy games with a lot of minute text boxes, though, will again run into the blurry text problem.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

My DVD recorder is over 3-1/2 years old and records fine but I wanted to replace my other player (used to watch movies while making recordings) which was about six years old. I didn't want to invest much so I simply got a new Sony progressive-scan player without upconversion that cost only $40.


Believe it or not, I'm floored by the picture quality -- even though the recorder has excellent playback capability, this is easily the best I've seen for DVD. Rich, vibrant color with sharp detail and even discs made on the recorder play back better. Have DVD players improved that much over just the past three or four years?


I don't see how any player could upconvert better than the 960 itself. Know bluray clearly offers the highest resolution possible but for those not wanting to spend over $200 for a unit (plus approximately $10more for each title) the picture quality from a good quality, brand-name player is outstanding in it's own right - of course, when viewed on the 960.


The 960 just never ceases to amaze me.


----------



## JAG23

I was wondering if anyone can tell me what my problem with my 960 might be?

For several months I kept hearing this popping sound (probably arcing) coming from the back of the tv. Well I haven't heard the popping in a while. But I've noticed now the picture is screwed up. It looks like I'm watching a 3-d movie without the glasses.

I've owned it since jun. 04 and I really hate to get rid of it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JAG23* /forum/post/17029569
> 
> 
> I was wondering if anyone can tell me what my problem with my 960 might be?
> 
> For several months I kept hearing this popping sound (probably arcing) coming from the back of the tv. Well I haven't heard the popping in a while. But I've noticed now the picture is screwed up. It looks like I'm watching a 3-d movie without the glasses.
> 
> I've owned it since jun. 04 and I really hate to get rid of it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.



Might be magnetism. Is the 960 close to any non-shielded audio speakers?


Also, is the set plugged directly into the wall socket? If only plugged into a surge protector the automatic degauser does not get the necessary power required to de-magnetize each time one turns on the set. Also, have you kept the set unplugged for five minutes? This enables the degauser to work at full strength.


Know how you must feel and do hope these suggestions are of some help.


----------



## JAG23

Joseph thanks for the reply. The speakers are shielded. I did have the set plugged into a surge protector. But when all this started happening I plugged it into the wall to see if that would make a difference. I guess I should unplug it for five minutes and see if that helps. Thanks again for your help.


----------



## amazin

It sounds like a major convergence issue to me but I am no expert and without seeing it in person or a screenshot it is hard to say for sure and even then it may still be difficult to determine.


From your description I take it you are seeing a lot of Red, Blue, and Green colors on the screen?


----------



## JAG23

I tried un-plugging it for 5 minutes but no help.

Amazin, I do see a lot of those colors around the sides. I attached a picture. Hope it comes through and helps everyone understand the issue. Thanks again.


----------



## amazin

Again, I am far from an expert and there are others on here that could definitely look at that screenshot and probably be able to give you a definite answer but yes from my experience that is a convergence issue and I am pretty sure that would require the picture tube being replaced. I am not sure that is even possible with this set anymore.


Again, I would seek help from more of an expert and I am sure someone will come along soon that can help you. In the meantime if the warranty is still in use I would have it looked at.


I have both the 34XBR960 and the 34XBR970 and have not experienced such an issue but I did have what looks like the same problem with a rear-projection Sony crt and it was a convergence issue.


Good luck and I would not make any rash decisions until you speak to someone that could give you a definitive answer.


One other question, is it like this for every input such as composite, component, and HDMI? If you are not sure you should try and hook some equipment(if available to you) up to the other inputs and see if in fact it is the case on all video inputs.


----------



## JAG23

Amazin, thanks for your help. I talked to a guy from a repair shop and he said he's never heard a tube tv having this issue. He said he can come pick it up and take it to his shop for $95. Or I can take it to him and pay $35 for him to look at it. I'll wait to see if anyone else can help out. Unfortunately the warranty has expired. So I may need to decide if it will be worth fixing. Again, thanks for your help.


----------



## unclepauly

Hey I have the PC monitor cousin of this set the FW900. I have seen this before. It's not the tube, it's something to do with the electronics that control the picture. I've seen something like this fixed just by soldering a chip back together. Although I'm not an expert so I can't say for sure.


----------



## amazin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JAG23* /forum/post/17036257
> 
> 
> Amazin, thanks for your help. I talked to a guy from a repair shop and he said he's never heard a tube tv having this issue. He said he can come pick it up and take it to his shop for $95. Or I can take it to him and pay $35 for him to look at it. I'll wait to see if anyone else can help out. Unfortunately the warranty has expired. So I may need to decide if it will be worth fixing. Again, thanks for your help.



If you could please report back when you find out what exactly the problem was just for future reference and good luck once again.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JAG23* /forum/post/17036257
> 
> 
> Amazin, thanks for your help. I talked to a guy from a repair shop and he said he's never heard a tube tv having this issue. He said he can come pick it up and take it to his shop for $95. Or I can take it to him and pay $35 for him to look at it. I'll wait to see if anyone else can help out. Unfortunately the warranty has expired. So I may need to decide if it will be worth fixing. Again, thanks for your help.



Jag,


Saw your attachment and indeed, that is no magnetisim problem.


Since it is not an issue of picture tube it is quite certain that the problem can be resolved. It will be an expense but the cost for parts and labor might not exceed what would have been the total cost for retaining an extended warranty over the past few years.


Good luck and yes, please let us know what happens.


- Joe


----------



## bbbobbb

I was thinking about upgrading my 34XBR960 since really good plasmas are now available for less than $2K....but I stumbled on this:

http://hdtvbychadb.com/reviews.htm 


Dang, we STILL have a great set....and if it is well calibrated (adding back in the 7 points from "issues") it is in the top 3! Excellent company to be with.











Maybe I will wait it out another year...


----------



## westsidehf

looks to me like CRT HDTVs are superior to Flat Panels , both in SD and HD reception.


----------



## unclepauly

It would have ranked up there with the Kuro's if it wasn't for convergence, geometry, and purity issues. Which calibration seems to mostly fix anyway.


----------



## JAG23

Just wanted to let everyone know I appreciate the opinions and advice everyone has given. I have a guy coming to look at the tv next monday. He will do all the troubleshooting and any repairs at the house. That works for me because I'm recovering from back surgery and I don't want to try and move the tv. If anyone else has any helpful advice about the issue, I'd really like to hear it. I'll definitely let everyone know what the outcome is. Thanks again.


----------



## tkmedia2

Jag, my bet is the stk chips and maybe associated transistors/resistor sets on the convergence board. usually parts are common and cheap, but labor to replace not so much. Or you could get a guy that just replace the board, too few people want/know how to mess with component repairs now a days.


----------



## JAG23

Tk, thanks for your input. Can you give me an idea on what it would cost to replace the whole board? Parts and labor? Again thanks.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JAG23* /forum/post/17058740
> 
> 
> Just wanted to let everyone know I appreciate the opinions and advice everyone has given. I have a guy coming to look at the tv next monday. He will do all the troubleshooting and any repairs at the house. That works for me because I'm recovering from back surgery and I don't want to try and move the tv. If anyone else has any helpful advice about the issue, I'd really like to hear it. I'll definitely let everyone know what the outcome is. Thanks again.



Jag,


That's great news. Am sure the problem will be fixed. And please, never try lifting the 960 under any circumstances. Even if one isn't recovering from a bad back, it could instead give one a hernia!


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bbbobbb* /forum/post/17057899
> 
> 
> I was thinking about upgrading my 34XBR960 since really good plasmas are now available for less than $2K....but I stumbled on this:
> 
> http://hdtvbychadb.com/reviews.htm
> 
> 
> Dang, we STILL have a great set....and if it is well calibrated (adding back in the 7 points from "issues") it is in the top 3! Excellent company to be with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I will wait it out another year...



Think of what that says about the 960, being in the top three while a five year old set. I'd still rate it number one!


Even though Plasma is the closest to CRT technology and quality, the one aspect Plasma (along with LCD, DSP, etc.) cannot overcome is its inability to provide a feel of depth to the picture as does CRT. All objects seen on flat screens look as if they are on top of each other.


----------



## unclepauly

You're right, it really does come down to the image looking 3-d or 2-d. I'm not sure why but CRT does pull off the 3-dimensional look very well.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/17069854
> 
> 
> You're right, it really does come down to the image looking 3-d or 2-d. I'm not sure why but CRT does pull off the 3-dimensional look very well.



I'm a novice but my guess is the depth of the catheroid tube and the path the signal travels within it creates that illusion of dimension. I don't see how the same effect could be achieved when liquid crystal or plasma is tightly pressed against a glass panel or DLP images are bounced off mirrors.


It's funny -- a big selling point is that CRTs are bulky and aesthetically unpleasing and from a decorative standpoint it's now more pleasing to have televisions no more than three or four inches deep and hung up on a wall. What the companies don't say is that by eliminating bulkiness they also did away with that three-dimensional feel and the purest black and contrast levels possible only with a CRT. The average consumer might not care but videophiles like you and I certaintly do!


In the early 40's both Warner Brothers (Looney Tunes) and Paramount (Popeye) produced a limited series of three-dimensional-like cartoons. I remember being able to see the effect even on older, black and white CRTs. I now have them on DVD and can attest the 960 does them a great justice. Wonder how effective the technique is on flat screens.


----------



## eyeDK

Hi, I moved recently and I believe my XBR960 lost it's video settings. Is this common if the TV is unplugged for a bit? I've used the service menu before to tweak the geometry and those settings are still there. If anyone has an XBR960 that has not had the colors changed in the service mode can you please share your HDMI video settings with me. Also, if you have different settings for night time movie viewing and day time viewing / game viewing can you please share those too. Thank you for your time.


----------



## Shadowknight

What are the recommended display settings for an X-box 360 on this set? It has settings for Standard, Intermediate, and Full, then settings for RGB, two different color-spaces, and and auto-feature. I've already had the set calibrated last year, I just need to setup the 360 properly.


----------



## Summit HDTV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bbbobbb* /forum/post/17057899
> 
> 
> I was thinking about upgrading my 34XBR960 since really good plasmas are now available for less than $2K....but I stumbled on this:
> 
> http://hdtvbychadb.com/reviews.htm
> 
> 
> Dang, we STILL have a great set....and if it is well calibrated (adding back in the 7 points from "issues") it is in the top 3! Excellent company to be with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I will wait it out another year...



Greetings,


Chad does great calibration work. You'd be pleased with the results.


Regards


----------



## JAG23

Well the tech stopped by and took one look at the picture, made a call to talk to someone more familiar with these issues, then said he thought he couldn't do anything to help. He then said he felt it was going to be too expensive to fix, and that I'd be better off buying a new tv. He then said if I really wanted to get it fixed I should take it to a repair shop and have them troubleshoot it. But he thought it was going to run about $1000 to fix. He then said he wasn't going to charge me anything and left. WTF!?

When I called to schedule the appointment they said he was going to troubleshoot it and give me an estimate. Yet they send a guy who admitted he wasn't familiar with these issues. What a waste of time.

So now I had to call another place who said they can come out tomorrow. I guess I'll have to go another day with this issue.


Hopefully I'll be able to tell everyone something positive tomorrow.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JAG23* /forum/post/17095451
> 
> 
> Well the tech stopped by and took one look at the picture, made a call to talk to someone more familiar with these issues, then said he thought he couldn't do anything to help. He then said he felt it was going to be too expensive to fix, and that I'd be better off buying a new tv. He then said if I really wanted to get it fixed I should take it to a repair shop and have them troubleshoot it. But he thought it was going to run about $1000 to fix. He then said he wasn't going to charge me anything and left. WTF!?
> 
> When I called to schedule the appointment they said he was going to troubleshoot it and give me an estimate. Yet they send a guy who admitted he wasn't familiar with these issues. What a waste of time.
> 
> So now I had to call another place who said they can come out tomorrow. I guess I'll have to go another day with this issue.
> 
> 
> Hopefully I'll be able to tell everyone something positive tomorrow.



Jag,


So sorry to hear that. Sounds as if he just didn't want to be bothered.


I would definately contact SONY Customer Service to register a complaint for there is no excuse for any authorized service center to send out a technician who not only knows nothing about the set and then tells you to junk it.


Am sure it's repairable but even if it is expensive, it will still be cheaper than buying a new quality-type set that will be a downgrade.


Please keep us apprised.


Joe


----------



## Sandman9R

I came on the site to see if anyone else was having issues with their 960. I can't believe this thread is still going strong five years later. I posted a few things about this set on this very thread in 2004.


Unfortunately, every now and then, when I press the power button, my red light flashes. I'd hate to lose this set. The sound is without a doubt the best I've ever heard.


Time to read and research the issue on this board.


----------



## DJF(NJ)

Watched 'Sin City' on BlueRay the other day and it looks incredible on this set!

(The DVD was no slouch either) The black and white contrast with small parts of color was a treat for the eyes. Highly recommend it!


----------



## JAG23

Well the tech stopped by today and the first thing he did was tell me it was probably a convergance problem. He then used the remote to try and reset some codes to see if the picture would re-align itself. It didn't! He said he could look into ordering a replacement tube but it was probably going to run well over $1000. So I guess I'm going to have to replace the 960. That sucks because I really loved the picture on it. And I know the flat screens just aren't as good as the 960. Anyways, thanks for everyones opinion and advice. If anyone has any opinions about a decent replacement for under $1000, I'm all ears. Thanks again.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JAG23* /forum/post/17102641
> 
> 
> Well the tech stopped by today and the first thing he did was tell me it was probably a convergance problem. He then used the remote to try and reset some codes to see if the picture would re-align itself. It didn't! He said he could look into ordering a replacement tube but it was probably going to run well over $1000. So I guess I'm going to have to replace the 960. That sucks because I really loved the picture on it. And I know the flat screens just aren't as good as the 960. Anyways, thanks for everyones opinion and advice. If anyone has any opinions about a decent replacement for under $1000, I'm all ears. Thanks again.



Jag,


So sorry to hear and regret that it's a problem with the picture tube since that is the guts of the set.


- Joe


----------



## Ennui

Jag:


You should be able to find a complete (used) 960 for under $500. And you will have a spare "feature box". (I had to replace my feature box last year because one of the tuners conked out and found one on Ebay for $100.)


Good luck.


----------



## danfoley

Hey all, i have the 960 here. Looking to get rid of it. Asking $400. You can PM if you are interested. I'm in Pittsburgh, PA.


----------



## shoopdopp

Hi, I was wondering if the XBR960 is capable of recording 480p/1080i gameplay footage off of a console such as an Xbox 360 via the Firewire output and a good DVHS recorder, or are all inputs aside from TV/Cable off-limits for a DVHS recorder to access with iLink?


----------



## JAG23

I'm still debating what to do about my 960. I was just wondering if what the tech told me was totally accurate. I've been doing some research and was wondering if he should of actually opened up the set to confirm it's the tube. Or was the test with the remote enough? Can anyone with more experience and knowledge please tell me what they think? Just keep hoping it's not the tube I guess. Thanks!


----------



## unclepauly

Honestly there's no way to tell without some pro opening it up. There's this guy named UnkleVito who knows alot about these tubes. I'll take your pic and post it to him and see what he thinks.


----------



## JAG23

Unclepauly thanks for your reply. Any advice unklevito can provide would be greatly appreciated. Heard from another person who said they also think it's a component issue. But he too wasn't totally sure because he hasn't opened up the set to get a closer look at it.


----------



## BTV Mark

Well, after 4 glorious years of watching the best TV made, my 960 didn't turn on last Thursday. At first, I wasn't concerned, because I've followed every post in this forum. But after unplugging it overnight, connecting directly to a different AC socket, and even measuring the line voltage (122.6), I had to resort to calling service. They'll come on Saturday, so I'll be home and able to see what they do.


I remembered I had purchased the 4-year extended warranty. I bought the set in July, 2004. So by my calculations, that meant the set was under warranty until July 2010. (2 years Sony warranty plus 4 years = 6 years. 2004 + 6 = 2010). But when I called for service, they said, no, the 4 year "extended" warranty started concurrently with Sony's original warranty--in other words, the set was only covered for a total of 4 years, not 6, which meant my warranty coverage expired in 2008. Does this sound right?? I have all of the original manuals and receipts except--of course--for the extended warranty coverage card.


TIA BTV Mark


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BTV Mark* /forum/post/17140098
> 
> 
> Well, after 4 glorious years of watching the best TV made, my 960 didn't turn on last Thursday. At first, I wasn't concerned, because I've followed every post in this forum. But after unplugging it overnight, connecting directly to a different AC socket, and even measuring the line voltage (122.6), I had to resort to calling service. They'll come on Saturday, so I'll be home and able to see what they do.
> 
> 
> I remembered I had purchased the 4-year extended warranty. I bought the set in July, 2004. So by my calculations, that meant the set was under warranty until July 2010. (2 years Sony warranty plus 4 years = 6 years. 2004 + 6 = 2010). But when I called for service, they said, no, the 4 year "extended" warranty started concurrently with Sony's original warranty--in other words, the set was only covered for a total of 4 years, not 6, which meant my warranty coverage expired in 2008. Does this sound right?? I have all of the original manuals and receipts except--of course--for the extended warranty coverage card.
> 
> 
> TIA BTV Mark



When extended warranties are bought when an item is purchased, the term usually includes what was already guaranteed.


----------



## unclepauly

Jag23. Here is UnkleVito's response to your picture.

Unkle Vitos assessment


----------



## yrduaeb

Hi all, I too, am a proud owner of a KD-34xbr960. I am amazed after almost 5 years, that this tv is still top dog. Of course that could be my own bias, but then again it is a bias we all seem to share. It is sad to think that real technology gets overlooked and or forgotten in favor of the bleeding edge. Bleeding edge is never best. When I look at my KD-34xbr960, I am looking at techological maturity, best comparable to a fine wine.


In any event, I was immediately suspect; did they mean to make something this good? Only for those that know what they're looking at. And while we can't control what we watch, we can still control what we watch it on.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yrduaeb* /forum/post/17144293
> 
> 
> Hi all, I too, am a proud owner of a KD-34xbr960. I am amazed after almost 5 years, that this tv is still top dog. Of course that could be my own bias, but then again it is a bias we all seem to share. It is sad to think that real technology gets overlooked and or forgotten in favor of the bleeding edge. Bleeding edge is never best. When I look at my KD-34xbr960, I am looking at techological maturity, best comparable to a fine wine.
> 
> 
> In any event, I was immediately suspect; did they mean to make something this good? Only for those that know what they're looking at. And while we can't control what we watch, we can still control what we watch it on.



Great to know there is another lucky owner of the 960 out there who realizes this set is still second to none. I couldn't be happier with it.


----------



## TomGreen321




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yrduaeb* /forum/post/17144293
> 
> 
> Hi all, I too, am a proud owner of a KD-34xbr960. I am amazed after almost 5 years, that this tv is still top dog. Of course that could be my own bias, but then again it is a bias we all seem to share. It is sad to think that real technology gets overlooked and or forgotten in favor of the bleeding edge. Bleeding edge is never best. When I look at my KD-34xbr960, I am looking at techological maturity, best comparable to a fine wine.
> 
> 
> In any event, I was immediately suspect; did they mean to make something this good? Only for those that know what they're looking at. And while we can't control what we watch, we can still control what we watch it on.



I thought the same way, until I bought a plasma from this year, a "lowly" X1. The CRTs now sits in a corner in my basement, and is almost unwatchable now. The only thing the CRT can beat a plasma at out of the box now is colour. The colour isn't even all that much better. Uneven focus, geometry, flicker(which I can see on it clear as day now) and bulkiness are all I equate to CRTs now.


I think they still have a good picture, but they are past there prime compared to any plasma from the last 2 generations.


----------



## notsonic

i picked up one not too long ago, used, for $200. overall im pretty happy with it as its a huge leap from my old slimfit and it handles multiple resolutions much better than an lcd would.


i had my ps3 hooked up via component and was happy with the picture. but i finally got around to rearranging and hooking up with hdmi and im kinda disappointed. im getting a significant amount of either bleeding or convergence problems around the edges of things. this may have been present to a small degree using component, especially on things around the edge of the screen, but now its pretty much everywhere and its really bad. any ideas?


----------



## philexile




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/17070521
> 
> 
> In the early 40's both Warner Brothers (Looney Tunes) and Paramount (Popeye) produced a limited series of three-dimensional-like cartoons. I remember being able to see the effect even on older, black and white CRTs. I now have them on DVD and can attest the 960 does them a great justice. Wonder how effective the technique is on flat screens.



Hello,


I was curious, what is the name of that DVD set your referring to. It sounds interesting.


Thanks


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *philexile* /forum/post/17183267
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I was curious, what is the name of that DVD set your referring to. It sounds interesting.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Hi,


There are many four-disc volumes and they are called "Looney Tunes Golden Collections" (I think there are six now - I have the first four). There are also other discs that have just a small portion of these cartoons on one DVD.


Check around for the best price and even try to find a bargain on used sets in good condition. Some of the stories behind the cartoons, etc. are priceless.


----------



## cyberbyte

Hello everyone, I apologize in advance if someone has already posted on this issue, but I did not find the topic in this thread. Basically, tomorrow I have Comcast coming for a CableCARD installation in my 960, but I am wondering if all channels will output digital audio to my receiver (previously, I had an HD DVR hooked up to the 960 that output all channels to digital audio - most 2 channel, some 5.1). This is a deal-breaker for me, because I want to use my stereo receiver for all audio, and not have to flip back and forth between audio on the TV set and the receiver.


The reason I ask is that I hooked up the cable line directly into the TV, and only the digital channels are outputting digital audio through the Toslink connection. When I switch to a standard def channel (non digital/HD) the audio does not go through the toslink connection.


I hope this makes sense and I am not rambling. I apologize if this doesn't make sense. Any and all help will be greatly appreciated!


Chris


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cyberbyte* /forum/post/17206959
> 
> 
> Hello everyone, I apologize in advance if someone has already posted on this issue, but I did not find the topic in this thread. Basically, tomorrow I have Comcast coming for a CableCARD installation in my 960, but I am wondering if all channels will output digital audio to my receiver (previously, I had an HD DVR hooked up to the 960 that output all channels to digital audio - most 2 channel, some 5.1). This is a deal-breaker for me, because I want to use my stereo receiver for all audio, and not have to flip back and forth between audio on the TV set and the receiver.
> 
> 
> The reason I ask is that I hooked up the cable line directly into the TV, and only the digital channels are outputting digital audio through the Toslink connection. When I switch to a standard def channel (non digital/HD) the audio does not go through the toslink connection.



I don't have a CableCard in my 960. Like your previous arrangement, I have an HD DVR feeding video to my 960 (via HDMI) and audio to my Yamaha receiver. And of course that works, since all cable channels contain digital audio (2.0 or 5.1 channel).


With your new CableCard setup, the 960 optical digital audio output of the 960 will similarly feed your receiver with the very same digital audio received from all channels received on the cable connected directly to the 960 with the CableCard enabling all your subscribed channels. This setup is really exactly as if you had a DVR feeding video to your 960 and audio to your receiver... except that the ATSC tuner in the 960 is serving as the tuner in the DVR.


The optical audio output of the 960 also will feed digital audio to your receiver for OTA channels, if you also have an OTA antenna connected to the 960.


You are good to go. Optical connection from 960 to your receiver, and it will be exactly like your previous arrangement when you had a DVR.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Does the 960 output 5.1? When I hooked up an optical cable directly from my 960 to my Yamaha receiver audio only came out in 2.0. Both video and audio was fed to the set via HDMI from a DVR.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/17210426
> 
> 
> Does the 960 output 5.1? When I hooked up an optical cable directly from my 960 to my Yamaha receiver audio only came out in 2.0. Both video and audio was fed to the set via HDMI from a DVR.



Can't say for sure. At the current moment I cannot connect my new DCX3400 DVR to my Yamaha RX-V863 receiver (and then on to my 960) using HDMI, because of serious HDMI-related issues in the 22.31 firmware of the DVR. This promises to be fixed on October 4 when firmware 22.37 gets rolled out (presumably).


But when I was using HDMI from DVR to receiver and then on to 960 via a second HDMI cable, with my previous DCH3416, I did not send digital audio via optical out from the 960 to my receiver for playing (expecting it to be the original 5.1 audio passed up to the 960 via HDMI from the DVR and then through the receiver).


Instead, I sent (a) digital video from DVR to receiver via HDMI (ignoring the audio in the receiver) and then from receiver to 960 via HDMI, and also (b) digital audio from DVR directly to receiver via optical. I had the I/O assignment for "DVR" on the Yamaha configured accordingly to handle HDMI input for video-only and optical input for audio. I had no digital audio output from the 960 involved, so I couldn't tell you if 5.1 was actually "passed through" from DVR to 960 via HDMI and then out the optical digital audio of the 960. I suspect it wouldn't have been, because I suspect it wasn't even sent to the 960 as 5.1.


I know that SA8300 DVR boxes won't deliver 5.1 digital audio via HDMI to an HDTV that declines to accept 5.1 (as most do, 960 probably included) because they don't have the audio circuitry or Dolby decoder or sufficient speakers. And this affects the optical digital audio output as well, preventing 5.1 over optical to the receiver. Bad. Solution for friends with SA8300 is to use HDMI/DVI cable/adapter so that the SA8300 avoids worrying about 5.1 over HDMI, and now sends 5.1 out over optical.


In fact, that's the real reason why I specifically deliver digital audio optically direct from DVR to receiver even with my Motorola DVRs and ignore digital audio from HDMI in my Yamaha receiver setup... just in case. I suspect the receiver also asks the 960 if it can accept DD5.1, which I suspect it can't (again, no Dolby decoder present, nor proper audio circuitry).


But I'm sure that using the OTA ATSC tuner in the 960 that the optical digital audio output of the 960 would definitely be 5.1 if the source channel is broadcasting in 5.1.


----------



## RalphArch

I getnDolby Digital 5.1 channel out to receiver on my 36KD955xs (cable card input); I can't imagine the 960 is less capable but mine in the basement doesn't have a receiver


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Same thing with my 8300 DVR set-up - picture and audio fed to the 960 via HDMI and 5.1 audio output from the DVR directly to my Yamaha via optical cable. The hassle is changing the DVR's audio menu from HDMI to Dolby Digital and vice versa when switching between the 960's speakers and my 6.1 audio system (if I forget to do so, my wife could call me at work saying no sound is coming out of the TV).


One way to resolve this issue is connecting RCA cables to the 960's audio input for video seven enabling the DVR to remain at Dolby Digital and wide range. Problem is, 2.0 audio becomes lower in volume - not so bad for listening through the 960 but too big a drop in audio for dubbing onto DVD via the "out to VCR" feature.


----------



## npoli

I just finished moving and for some reason my tv won't display blue through the standard inputs. The HD inputs work perfectly but whenever I use something with composite cables the blues come out gray. The television was not dropped during the move. Can anyone give me some suggestions to try fixing the tv?


----------



## rmehu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *npoli* /forum/post/17214199
> 
> 
> I just finished moving and for some reason my tv won't display blue through the standard inputs. The HD inputs work perfectly but whenever I use something with composite cables the blues come out gray. The television was not dropped during the move. Can anyone give me some suggestions to try fixing the tv?



ISF calibration maybe. Just a guess.


----------



## npoli

I took off the back of the tv and I don't see any loose cables. Sony said that they thought that the video card (I think he may have called it something else) may have become unseated properly during the move. I don't see anything wrong with the card or any of the cables connected to any of the cards. I'm going to have a repair person come take a look at it unless someone on here has a suggestion.


----------



## richardmn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cyberbyte* /forum/post/17206959
> 
> 
> Hello everyone, I apologize in advance if someone has already posted on this issue, but I did not find the topic in this thread. Basically, tomorrow I have Comcast coming for a CableCARD installation in my 960, but I am wondering if all channels will output digital audio to my receiver (previously, I had an HD DVR hooked up to the 960 that output all channels to digital audio - most 2 channel, some 5.1). This is a deal-breaker for me, because I want to use my stereo receiver for all audio, and not have to flip back and forth between audio on the TV set and the receiver.
> 
> 
> The reason I ask is that I hooked up the cable line directly into the TV, and only the digital channels are outputting digital audio through the Toslink connection. When I switch to a standard def channel (non digital/HD) the audio does not go through the toslink connection.
> 
> 
> I hope this makes sense and I am not rambling. I apologize if this doesn't make sense. Any and all help will be greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> Chris



I have been using a Comcast cable card in my set since I got it 4 years ago and have had no problem receiving 5.1 signals when Comcast sends them out. The optical output from the set runs to my receiver. Both OTA and cable signals can change from 5.1 to 2.0 depending on the program or commercial being broadcast. The audio always sounds better OTA, because I'm told it is not compressed.


----------



## drvais

If anyone has a 960 in the Monterey, CA area that they are wanting to part with, please PM me.


----------



## fugiot

Hi,


Can someone help me figure this out??


I just bought a second XBR960 and it makes it clear that my first Xbr960n has some sort of light output problem via HDMI.


Is there a setting in the SM somewhere that caps the light output for HDMI?


I have **** set to 15(in the SM) and Picture(in the user menu) set to 31 on both sets, yet the new 960 is significantly brighter. I even had to set the YCON on the old 960n to 1 as an attempt to increase brightness, but the new 960's white levels are too high with it at 1.


What is causing this difference?? Is it the fact that one is a 960n? From what I can tell, it's only the HDMI input that is suffering from this problem. What the heck, man?


----------



## DSperber

Just a really inconsequential item here... that might be of use to some people.


I came home today to discover that my cleaning girl had for some reason decided to "wipe down" the screen of my XBR960. HORRORS!


I don't know what she did it with, but I'm guessing from the residual large sweeping dried streaks on the screen that it was probably a cloth of some type (probably 100% cotton, since that's what's in the bag of rags I supplied her with) and possibly dampened with Windex. I wouldn't be surprised if she was dusting all around, and decided to "dust off my screen" with the same cloth. HORRORS!


Anyway, I kept my composure and ran to get the can of trusty "oil free, wax free, non-streaking" screen cleaner (ingredients unknown) I use for my computer monitors. It works great on them so hopefully it would also work great on the 960's screen.


Did it in two sections, using a 100% cotton T-shirt rag to wipe it down, and then a complete wipe again to be sure.


And, sure enough, like magic, absolutely 100% perfectly clean and clear and streak-free, my 960's screen has been returned to mint condition.


Case closed.



So, just in the event you find yourself wanting to perform a similar function on your own 960, this item is just a house-brand Office Depot item labeled strangely enough, "Screen Cleaner, non-streaking".


UPC code: 0-79086 30236-0


Can't recommend this item highly enough, for 960 screens as well as computer display screens (anti-glare, notebook, CRT's and LCD's).


----------



## S. Hiller




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/17295108
> 
> 
> Just a really inconsequential item here... that might be of use to some people.
> 
> 
> I came home today to discover that my cleaning girl had for some reason decided to "wipe down" the screen of my XBR960. HORRORS!
> 
> 
> I don't know what she did it with, but I'm guessing from the residual large sweeping dried streaks on the screen that it was probably a cloth of some type (probably 100% cotton, since that's what's in the bag of rags I supplied her with) and possibly dampened with Windex. I wouldn't be surprised if she was dusting all around, and decided to "dust off my screen" with the same cloth. HORRORS!
> 
> 
> Anyway, I kept my composure and ran to get the can of trusty "oil free, wax free, non-streaking" screen cleaner (ingredients unknown) I use for my computer monitors. It works great on them so hopefully it would also work great on the 960's screen.
> 
> 
> Did it in two sections, using a 100% cotton T-shirt rag to wipe it down, and then a complete wipe again to be sure.
> 
> 
> And, sure enough, like magic, absolutely 100% perfectly clean and clear and streak-free, my 960's screen has been returned to mint condition.
> 
> 
> Case closed.
> 
> 
> 
> So, just in the event you find yourself wanting to perform a similar function on your own 960, this item is just a house-brand Office Depot item labeled strangely enough, "Screen Cleaner, non-streaking".
> 
> 
> UPC code: 0-79086 30236-0
> 
> 
> Can't recommend this item highly enough, for 960 screens as well as computer display screens (anti-glare, notebook, CRT's and LCD's).



As long as it's not "anti-static." Or at least I remember the manual to my FW900 CRT said anti-static formulations could scratch...


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/17295108
> 
> 
> I'm guessing from the residual large sweeping dried streaks on the screen that it was probably a cloth of some type (probably 100% cotton, since that's what's in the bag of rags I supplied her with) and possibly dampened with Windex.



Hi Dsperber,


You are very, very lucky that all you had were streaks on the screen. Occasionally I used something like Windex on my 960 because water also often left streaks. But the last time it took off a small part of the 960's anti-glare coating which, to this day, I kick myself for causing.


Fortunately, it's only about an inch and a half in length and half-inch wide toward the upper left-hand side and not noticable except from a certain viewing angle. And when seen, it appears as nothing more than natural glare reflected off the screen with no picture distortion.


But to play it safe, I'm sticking with soft paper-towels damped in cold water followed by dry paper towels to avoid streaks and spots.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/17297662
> 
> 
> But to play it safe, I'm sticking with soft paper-towels damped in cold water followed by dry paper towels to avoid streaks and spots.



"Soft" paper towels? They're primarily a wood product and I would think using this kind of "cloth" would run the risk of scratching the screen's surface. Of course maybe wetting the paper towel for the first step would saturate it rendering it essentially harmless, but using the dry paper towel for the second step would seem kind of risky.


Except for the "Job Squad" brand that I have used forever because I like it's softness, every other paper towel I've ever tried has been stiff and had a rough surface. Maybe "Viva" is kind of similar to "Job Squad" in softness, because they're now both made by the same corporate giant conglomerate.


But personally I'm going to stick with a 100% soft cotton clean T-shirt rag for addressing screen cleaning needs, both for occasional dusting-only and possibly for the very rare actual screen cleaning such as I was forced into this week (along with the Office Depot anti-streaking screen cleaner, nothing else).


Fortunately, my 960's screen seems to have escaped unscathed. No indications whatsoever of anything at all removed from the anti-glare surface.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/17298756
> 
> 
> "Soft" paper towels? They're primarily a wood product and I would think using this kind of "cloth" would run the risk of scratching the screen's surface. Of course maybe wetting the paper towel for the first step would saturate it rendering it essentially harmless, but using the dry paper towel for the second step would seem kind of risky.
> 
> 
> Except for the "Job Squad" brand that I have used forever because I like it's softness, every other paper towel I've ever tried has been stiff and had a rough surface. Maybe "Viva" is kind of similar to "Job Squad" in softness, because they're now both made by the same corporate giant conglomerate.
> 
> 
> But personally I'm going to stick with a 100% soft cotton clean T-shirt rag for addressing screen cleaning needs, both for occasional dusting-only and possibly for the very rare actual screen cleaning such as I was forced into this week (along with the Office Depot anti-streaking screen cleaner, nothing else).
> 
> 
> Fortunately, my 960's screen seems to have escaped unscathed. No indications whatsoever of anything at all removed from the anti-glare surface.



Only thing is, the screen is already wet when the dry paper towel is applied and that one becomes wet in the process as well. But you do have a point and maybe it wasn't just the windex but the paper towel used to dry it down that time too.


I always dust the screen with a soft rag but have also gently washed it with cold water it every two weeks or so the past four years which keeps it pristinely clean. I never had a problem with paper towels except that one time with the Windex. Found damped, t-shirt-type rags left not only streaks but watermarks and even a bit of lint on the screen but will give it another try to play it safe.


----------



## Darkhynde

I was playing my 360 when I went to go eat. Turned off the TV and the XBOX. When I came back to play more I got no sound from my 360. Turned all off and back on again and still no sound. I thought it was just the 360 failing on me. I hooked up the DVR and the DVD player and none of them would give sound via HDMI. I made sure that everything was set to deliver audio via HDMI. Nothing works. Even tried different HDMI cables that work on another TV set. Any ideas on how to fix it? Or should I just start saving for another HDTV and use my component hookups for now.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darkhynde* /forum/post/17331393
> 
> 
> I was playing my 360 when I went to go eat. Turned off the TV and the XBOX. When I came back to play more I got no sound from my 360. Turned all off and back on again and still no sound. Any ideas on how to fix it? Or should I just start saving for another HDTV and use my component hookups for now.



Not that it's guaranteed to fix anything, but have you pulled the 960 power cord from the wall? Sometimes this cold power-on reset kicks things back into operation.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darkhynde* /forum/post/17331393
> 
> 
> I was playing my 360 when I went to go eat. Turned off the TV and the XBOX. When I came back to play more I got no sound from my 360. Turned all off and back on again and still no sound. I thought it was just the 360 failing on me. I hooked up the DVR and the DVD player and none of them would give sound via HDMI. I made sure that everything was set to deliver audio via HDMI. Nothing works. Even tried different HDMI cables that work on another TV set. Any ideas on how to fix it? Or should I just start saving for another HDTV and use my component hookups for now.



As a matter of routine I unplug my 960 about once a month to avoid things like this and also to be sure that the degauser kicks in completely.


----------



## Darkhynde




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/17333533
> 
> 
> Not that it's guaranteed to fix anything, but have you pulled the 960 power cord from the wall? Sometimes this cold power-on reset kicks things back into operation.



I would like tothank all of you for actually pulling the power cord. I did that immediately after I posted. Pulled up Newegg andBest Buy website and started looking at new sets while I ate breakfast. Turned it on to watch a bit of cable and there was sound. Then I noticed the input wasthe HDMI input







.


----------



## DJF(NJ)

Contemplating selling my 960. Here are the details:

-Original owner, bought new in August 2004. Have all reciepts+manual and remote.

-Excellent condition, never had a single problem with it. Limited weekend use with just video games and HD DVD/Blu Ray. Always covered when not in use and run through a surge protector when in use and unplugged when not in use. Only used by myself and never any kids or pets around it.

-Anti-glare guard removed and ISF calibrated twice with geometry during ownership by ChadB. Have a Word document of the most recent one from January of this year.

-Matching Sony stand included.


I am located in Lakewood, NJ 08701. $600 Send me a PM.


----------



## unclepauly

Not trying to crap on your post I'm just curious about the removal of the anti-glare? I did that to my PC monitor which is the cousin of the 960 (the fw900), and the black levels went WAY up. It now looks like a CRT/LCD hybrid it's so freakin bright. I removed mine because it had so many scratches on it.


----------



## kctobyjoe

good luck ******


I can't locate the thread replying to mine


I had to ditch my 960 a whlie back; got a 4100 and now a 5100 SONY 46"


NEVER had a chance to calibrate my 960...where I live ;-(


These sets are OK but I miss my 960 ;-0


----------



## kctobyjoe

replied below...


----------



## DJF(NJ)




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/17338332
> 
> 
> Not trying to crap on your post I'm just curious about the removal of the anti-glare? I did that to my PC monitor which is the cousin of the 960 (the fw900), and the black levels went WAY up. It now looks like a CRT/LCD hybrid it's so freakin bright. I removed mine because it had so many scratches on it.



Well, the overall brightness of the picture increased as expected, but not a whole lot where I would say it was way off. The blacks still looked inky to me, but with a touch more shadow detail. The picture was slightly sharper as well. I had Chad calibrate it a few days later just to have it accurate. It was almost 3 years since he last calibrated it and my black levels actually had droped a bit where he had to bring them up. There was nothing wrong with mine, but I had a chance to see one earlier w/o the glare filter and I was impressed with how it looked.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DJF(NJ)* /forum/post/17339597
> 
> 
> Well, the overall brightness of the picture increased as expected, but not a whole lot where I would say it was way off. The blacks still looked inky to me, but with a touch more shadow detail. The picture was slightly sharper as well. I had Chad calibrate it a few days later just to have it accurate. It was almost 3 years since he last calibrated it and my black levels actually had droped a bit where he had to bring them up. There was nothing wrong with mine, but I had a chance to see one earlier w/o the glare filter and I was impressed with how it looked.



Since the 960 has an anti-glare coating and the 960N has an internal glare filter, has thre been an increase in glare since your set now has neither?


----------



## DJF(NJ)

Yes, there is an increase in glare. I have good light control where it is, so it's not a problem. It loses that purple-ish tint when turned off, just like my Sony 24" FS120.


----------



## pharmerphil

Have owned my XBR960 for almost 3 yrs.(It's a 2006 model). Just recently got a HD package with my Charter TV service. When I try to compare pictures between Standard Definition (SD) & High Definition (HD) on a HD channel (HBO, Showtime, Animal Planet, etc.) I can't tell much of a difference in picture quality. Is this TV HD ready or do I need to buy something to make it produce HD quality pictures? I had a friend stop by to review the Owners Manual, specs., wiring hook-up, etc. and he says he's not certain that my TV is HD ready. Am I doing something wrong or just what exactly do I need to do to get my XBR to display HD quality pictures? Any help or advice you can provide to this "newbie" will be appreciated. Thanx.


----------



## Ennui

Certainly, the TV is HD ready.


How do you have your cable box connected to the 960? Should be either HDMI or component.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pharmerphil* /forum/post/17368120
> 
> 
> Have owned my XBR960 for almost 3 yrs.(It's a 2006 model). Just recently got a HD package with my Charter TV service. When I try to compare pictures between Standard Definition (SD) & High Definition (HD) on a HD channel (HBO, Showtime, Animal Planet, etc.) I can't tell much of a difference in picture quality. Am I doing something wrong



Yes, you must be doing something wrong.


The Charter cable box (probably a Scientific Atlanta SA8300, but you need to tell us specifically what you have) has multiple video output connectors, for connection to a variety of possible TVs. HD-quality pictures MUST use either (a) component video connection to INPUT5/6 on the XBR960, or (b) DVI/HDMI connection to INPUT7 on the XBR960. You can even use the firewire (1394) connection from cable box to the XBR960's firewire input and get HD-quality picture, if your cable box supports it, but I do not recommend that firewire approach since the cable box graphics (i.e. Guide, menus, etc.) are not propagated on the firewire output.


If you use either of the other two possible video outputs from the cable box to the XBR960 (i.e. composite or S-video, to INPUT1/3 of the XBR960) then you are NOT watching 720p/1080i HD-quality picture. You are watching 480i picture. And if you are tuned to an HD channel and watching it on INPUT1/3 composite/S-video (by setting your cable box to do this) then you have down-converted your HD 720p/1080i channel content for 480i presentation: NOT HD.


So, in summary, component from cable box to INPUT5/6 of the XBR960, or DVI/HDMI from cable box to INPUT7 of the XBR960, and SA8300 (or whatever) configured to deliver 720p/1080i to the TV. Now you'll actually be watching the HD-quality picture from Charter's HD channels on your XBR960. (Of course, you must choose INPUT 5/6/7 on the XBR960 to be watching the HD source content)


Using any other connection method to INPUT1/3, or configuring your cable box so that it does NOT deliver 720p/1080i out of component/HDMI, and you're NOT watching HD picture. But this is not the fault of the XBR960. The fault lies with your connections and/or cable box video setup.


----------



## RalphArch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pharmerphil* /forum/post/17368120
> 
> 
> . Is this TV HD ready or do I need to buy something to make it produce HD quality pictures? I had a friend stop by to review the Owners Manual, specs., wiring hook-up, etc. and he says he's not certain that my TV is HD ready. Am I doing something wrong or just what exactly do I need to do to get my XBR to display HD quality pictures? Any help or advice you can provide to this "newbie" will be appreciated. Thanx.



The tv is HD ready but requires a cable card (free) from your cable provider to get the premium channels


Plus you will need a scheduled visit from a technician as they typically don't allow you to do the cable card setup


Alternately you can rent an HD cable box as others have mentioned


The local broadcast channels should be available in clear HD (QAM) on the cable input - but sometimes cable operators provide the SD versus HD version of the local broadcast


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RalphArch* /forum/post/17369071
> 
> 
> The tv is HD ready but requires a cable card (free) from your cable provider to get the premium channels



Is this actually correct? Cable cards are free? I thought they were a few bucks a month, but I may be wrong.


Anyway, it's certainly true that the minimal information provided in the OP regarding some kind of "HD package" obtained from Charter definitely does not define whether or not a cable box and/or DVR was part of the story. I actually had not even considered the cable card alternative.


Nevertheless, the fact that there is some mention of contrasting SD vs. "HD channels" (e.g. premiums like HBO and SHO, and non-premiums like APL-HD vs. APL-SD) suggests that whatever the arrangement (cable card or STB/DVR) he must have the proper equipment already installed... else it would be impossible to even tune to one of these "HD channels", as almost universally now it is only the OTA local network HD channels which can be tuned "in the clear".


I still think it must be a cabling story from what I'm guessing must be an STB/DVR to the 960, rather than a cable card configuration with coax direct to the 960. If this were the case, and a true HD channel tuned to, the picture would have to be presented in HD by the 960... and this would easily be differentiated from the SD version of the same channel.


pharmerphil, can you provide some additional info?


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Phil,


I agree with the others that you probably are not connected to video six or seven.


The only other possible answer is that your cable system uses a video mapping system where the HD feed automatically comes on, even if one had selected a channel allocated for the SD transmission instead. Does your picture quality in general now seem like night and day compared to the old box? If so, it might be the mapping system and that's why you can't tell any difference.


----------



## pharmerphil

Thanks to all of you that have tried to help me thusfar. Here's some info. that may be pertinent:

The Charter Receiver/Box is a Motorola, HD Dual Tuner, DVR, Model #DCH 6416. I don't really see a slot/place for a Cable Card & I do not have such a card.

The wiring from my TV to the receiver is a thick, white, 5 strand ribbon wire.

3 wires labeled video And 2 labeled audio are connected to the back of the receiver. There are 4 ports/connectors on the back of the receiver that are empty/unconnected and they are the HDMI, Ethernet, USB, & Sata.


Just to make sure that it wasn't just my old eyes that couldn't see any difference I've had 3 other younger friends make a comparison between SD & HD channels and they too said it was barely noticeable, if any at all.

If there is any other info. I can provide that would be helpful, please advise. Sorry that I'm not more versed on TV's and able to provide more intelligent input. Thanks again.


----------



## pharmerphil

The 5 wire ribbon wire IS connected at the back of the 960 to Video #5 HD/DVD IN. My "hook-up" was done by a Charter Service Rep, not myself.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pharmerphil* /forum/post/17371389
> 
> 
> The 5 wire ribbon wire IS connected at the back of the 960 to Video #5 HD/DVD IN. My "hook-up" was done by a Charter Service Rep, not myself.



Phil,


There's the problem -- the Charter Service Representative hooked it up to the wrong input. Video five is not meant for high definition. Re-connect the cables to video six and you'll see the difference.


----------



## pharmerphil

Yep, Joseph, switched the ribbon wires over to #6 and saw the improvement in sharpness, clarity, "crispness", immediately. I certainly appreciate yours, and everyone elses, prompt responses and helpful info. I've heard great things about AVS and the knowledge & experience of the "posters" at their site. For a novice such as myself I would never have figured out what to do (and it was so easy).

By the way, I love my XBR960! Got friends with 40 to 60 inch LCD's & Plasma's but I think my picture blows theirs away. Now that I got the HD picture to work it's even more awesome!

Thanks again to every one of you fellow XBR960 fans.


----------



## RalphArch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/17370000
> 
> 
> Is this actually correct? Cable cards are free? I thought they were a few bucks a month, but I may be wrong.
> 
> 
> ....
> 
> Nevertheless, the fact that there is some mention of contrasting SD vs. "HD channels" (e.g. premiums like HBO and SHO, and non-premiums like APL-HD vs. APL-SD) suggests that whatever the arrangement (cable card or STB/DVR) he must have the proper equipment already installed... else it would be impossible to even tune to one of these "HD channels", as almost universally now it is only the OTA local network HD channels which can be tuned "in the clear".



I haven't looked at my bill in a while - but at least initially there was no rental fee for either of my cable cards but there was a $2 per "outlet" charge (which also applied to my HD DVR in addition to themonthly rental fee).


On the SD/HD comment I was thinking it could have been a clear QAM situation. The OP should clarify his equipment/cabling as you noted.


However your point above on clear QAM is not correct, at least in my case as I am getting several hundred clear as evidenced on my HD Homerun tuner (can't tell on the Sonys due to the cable card decoding encrypted). These include several HD premiums such as UHD. Probably related to the cable digital realignment and with the ongoing effort to role out free digital boxes for the non-HD customers and recover analog bandwidth.


Long point is that I was thinking he was probably seeing some of those channels (eg SD HBO and STarz etc) on a direct cable connection, else as you note the resolution difference would have been obvious - but only a response from OP can clarify.


(EDIt - I see he did clarify that he has a cable box so my points above were not the case)


However my point on the free digital boxes is quite applicable for all of us with QAM tuners - you will be able to get the same set of channels that the cable provider is affording its customers with those boxes - typically this is the basic cable level - maybe 70 channels or so and they are all available without a cable box (or cable card) now (but most are 480 resolution)


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/17371580
> 
> 
> There's the problem -- the Charter Service Representative hooked it up to the wrong input. Video five is not meant for high definition. Re-connect the cables to video six and you'll see the difference.



Joe,


I must respectfully disagree with this diagnosis and proposed solution.


On the XBR960 both INPUT5 and INPUT6 are identical, and are both capable of receiving 480i/480p/720p/1080i input via component video.


Switching the component video connection from the DCH3416 from INPUT5 to INPUT6 should accomplish nothing.


The answer must lie elsewhere, if in doing so Phil noticed a "dramatic" improvement in picture after changing the connection on the back of the 960 from INPUT5 to INPUT6.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/17371879
> 
> 
> Joe,
> 
> 
> I must respectfully disagree with this diagnosis and proposed solution.
> 
> 
> On the XBR960 both INPUT5 and INPUT6 are identical, and are both capable of receiving 480i/480p/720p/1080i input via component video.
> 
> 
> Switching the component video connection from the DCH3416 from INPUT5 to INPUT6 should accomplish nothing.
> 
> 
> The answer must lie elsewhere, if in doing so Phil noticed a "dramatic" improvement in picture after changing the connection on the back of the 960 from INPUT5 to INPUT6.



I agree with DSperber on this. Inputs5 & 6 are identical, component video inputs capable of both SD and HD resolutions.


I would suggest that the Motorola box is not setup correctly. I suggest taking a look at Motorola STB Setup . I have been using a Moto DCT6200 with a Sony 34HS510 for many years and TVType = 16:9, HDMI/YPbPr = 1080i, 4:3 override = OFF is my suggested setup.


4:3 override set to off allows the very good upconverter in the Sony to do its thing and allows use of the screen modes on the Sony. One note, because of a firmware problem on the DCT boxes, if it appears that a color is missing on SD channels, then set the override = 480p. However, this may not effect your DCH.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pharmerphil* /forum/post/17371723
> 
> 
> Yep, Joseph, switched the ribbon wires over to #6 and saw the improvement in sharpness, clarity, "crispness", immediately.



Phil, as I mentioned in my reply to Joe's post, I disagree that this connection change from INPUT5 to INPUT6 accounts for the difference you see. In my opinion that is impossible, as INPUT5 and INPUT6 are identical component video inputs on the 960... simply TWO separate alternatives for connection from source devices.


Since BOTH of these connections DO support the full range of input resolutions (480i from SD TV, 480p from DVD, 720p/1080i from HD channels) you could certainly have connected your DCH3416 to either input, and SHOULD have been able to clearly see what is in HD in its native and glorious resolution on the 960... and easily distinguishable from the SD equivalent channel.


The "5-strand" white ribbon cable you describe as installed by the cable company is simply an "all-in-one" standard-issue component video cable, with three of the five strands (green, blue, red male connectors at the end) going to the corresponding YPbPr green/blue/red remale connectors of the 960's component video input. The remaining two strands (red, white male connectors at the end) go the corresponding analog audio input for that particular component video input, which also have red/white female connectors.


Using the five INPUT5 connectors for this ribbon cable instead of the INPUT6 connectors makes no difference whatsoever. Both inputs are identical. There's nothing wrong with your current INPUT6 choice, but there should have been nothing wrong with your INPUT5 choice either.



So... now that you've told us you have a DCH3416 from Charter, let's first make sure that the cable guy did right by you. For simplicity let's just call it your "DVR". Let's make sure your DVR is configured correctly for the 960.


If you have the DVR powered on and the 960 powered on and you're watching INPUT6, go over to the DVR and push the POWER button on the front panel of the DVR and then right away (i.e. right after pushing the POWER button) push the MENU button on the front panel of the DVR. This should produce a setup screen on your 960.


At the top of the setup screen (titled "USER SETTING STATUS"). Use your remote down-arrow key to navigate the cursor around this menu. If any of the choices presented are NOT what I tell you should be set, if you push the OK button on the remote the settings menu will change the value to the next allowed value for that setting which you're pointing to.


Top line "TV TYPE" should be set to "16:9".


Second line "YPbPr OUTPUT" should show "1080I". The DCH3416 only supports 720p or 1080i (one or the other) for HD resolutions, depending on what the connected HDTV can accept. The 960 can accept either, but since only one of these values can be specified you should specify the "1080I" value to ensure maximum possible resolution on your screen. This will cause the DVR to up-convert 720p programs to 1080i resolution, but that's not a crime.


Third line "4:3 OVERRIDE" should show "off". This will cause 4:3 SD programs to be presented on the screen of the 960 as 4:3 images within the 16:9 rectangular screen, surround on left and right with black "pillar bars". In other words a 4:3 image will appear natural, normal, as if you are watching on a conventional 4:3 SD television, and with NO HORIZONTAL STRETCH. Of course this is a matter of personal taste (and is mine, naturally) but really only affects how 4:3 SD programs appear on the 960. I recommend this value.


Now push the POWER button again on the face of the DVR, to turn off the DVR and make your above settings permanent.



Now... you can power on the DVR again (use the remote) for normal operation.


Since you're new to HD, I'll state some obvious facts that make watching HD channels different from watching conventional SD channels. This may really be the true explanation why you saw "no appreciable difference" in SD channels vs. their HD counterparts... something which is actually impossible, if you've tuned to the proper channels. Nobody can NOT SEE a difference from SD to HD, if watching the proper HD channel.


And that's the key here... that there are TWO DIFFERENT CHANNELS provided by Charter, one for SD watching and a second separate channel for HD watching. To use an example from my Time Warner cable system, NBC is provided on both "SD" at channel 4 and also for "HD" on channel 404.


So yes, I can choose channel 4 and see it presented in 4:3 SD 480i resolution on INPUT5/6/7, or I can choose channel 404 and see it presented in 16:9 HD 1080i resolution on the same INPUT5/6/7.


Same with HBO on Time Warner... it is provided on 503 in SD 4:3 as well as on 502 in HD 16:9.


So first, you MUST be tuned to the HD version of a channel (when both SD and HD channel alternatives are provided, e.g. with your Animal Planet SD and HD).



Second, the channel most actually be broadcasting an HD 16:9 program in order for you to actually see HD clarity. Unfortunately, many of the standard cable and network channels (and APL is no different) often broadcast non-16:9 non-HD content. Even though this content is being sent to the HD 16:9 version of the channel (as well as to the SD 4:3 version of the channel), it will simply appear onscreen as a regular 4:3 non-glorious image.


This is not the fault of your 960, not the fault of your connection to INPUT5 or INPUT6, and not the fault of your DVR. It is simply that at that moment there is not a true 16:9 HD image being sent from network to Charter to you.


Now as a general rule, this is NEVER the case with premiums like HBO-HD. Except for inter-program promos or the very rarest of shows, you will likely ALWAYS see true 16:9 HD-quality images coming from HBO-HD and SHO-HD. But you MUST TUNE TO THOSE HBO-HD and SHO-HD channels in order to get HD pictures. You will NOT get HD picture on your 960 if you tune to the SD version of HBO and SHO.


Again... two separate channels for SD and HD for any single network/premium/cable source , and you must ALWAYS TUNE TO THE HD version of that channel in order to see the HD picture.



Finally, although the cable company used the standard-issue 5-strand white ribbon cable to connect your DVR to the 960 on INPUT5 (or INPUT6, no difference), I think you might find that buying your own HDMI cable to connect the DVR to the 960 using an HDMI connection might produce a slightly superior image (you would select INPUT7 on the 960 to watch via HDMI). At least that's been my experience, although the difference is quite small and you may not see it yourself.


In other words, component video connection vs. HDMI connection is more noticeable when using a digital flat-panel display device (e.g. LCD or plasma or DLP). With the CRT 960 there is almost no noticeable difference when using HDMI vs. component video, so until you get used to your new HD world I'd say just leave things exactly as they are right now.



So, I know you said all you did was moved your connection to the DVR from INPUT5 on the 960 over to INPUT6, but honestly that could not have been the explanation for why you now see an SD vs. HD difference.


I think you must have simply been not tuning to the proper channel... remember there are TWO to choose from for each network, one is SD and one is HD.


And on the HD channel they might be broadcasting an old 4:3 SD program which case there will be little difference between watching it on the HD channel and watching it on the SD channel.


But if they are broadcasting a true 16:9 HD program on the HD channel, I assure you there will be a GIANT difference between watching that 16:9 HD-resolution 720p/1080i program from the HD channel, and watching what will be a 4:3 cropped SD-resolution 480I version of that same program. NIGHT AND DAY, and anybody can see it.



Hope that helps clarify things.


----------



## pharmerphil

Appreciate your lengthy reply putting terminology in language that an amateur like myself can understand. I followed all your directions about using the menu/setup and my Motorola Receiver/DVR #9416 was set exactly to the specifics you recommended.

I wish it were something as simple as my not hitting the correct HD channel when comparing. I tried several (Animal Planet SD#61,HD#729. HBO SD is 500, HD=550. Showtime 400, HD 570. Food 26/751. TNT 40/781. etc.) When going from a SD to HD channel I did notice a pause of a couple seconds BEFORE the HD appeared on screen. Then when I get to the HD channel it displays the channel # & shows HD next to that #. I'm certain that getting the HD channel when trying to compare to the SD channel.

If I had to give a "seat of the pants" comparison of my SD to HD picture I would say SD is a 9 and HD is a 9.3. Both pictures are great. Maybe I'm expecting too much of a difference but you got to really look close and focus on a brick, or a crack in the sidewalk, or scales on snake to see a discernable difference between the two. Because of this "lack of difference" in picture quality between SD &HD (at least to my wife's & my eyes) I'll probably not pay extra for the HD Package the next time the bill is due.

I learned a lot from all of the replies here & glad I posted my request for help. At least I now know everything is wired correctly, settings are correct, and I am receiving the HD channels . I'm content! Thanx.



I feel confident that my wiring, connections, settings, etc. are where they should be.


----------



## RalphArch

Ther's no need to speculate on whether you are hooked up correctly or not or to describe what you are seeing (but it still doesn't sound right). Just hit the display button on the remote and the tv will report the resollution you are receiving on screen eg 1080i for most HD channels but 720 p for others; 480i for SD


----------



## pharmerphil

Yep, No longer any speculation because, as you suggested, I used the Display Button and got the 1080, 480 on the HD/SD Channels as they should be. Thanx.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi all,


See where I made the mistake.


On page 34 of the manual it specifically said to connect the DVD player's component outputs to video 5 (not 5 or 6). Since this was before the advent of Bluray and that non-HD monitors also had component inputs, I took this to mean only 480i/p could be accepted.


I see now where both 5 and 6 are clearly marked "HD" and feel quite embarrased. Hope this won't tarnish my reputation in future posts!










I agree with Dsperber - HDMI does offer a slightly bit better picture quality (I saw the difference when comparing the two, having used HD test patterns to be sure both inputs were properly set).


But either way, the difference between standard definition and HD (regardless of input-type) is so obvious so Phil, I would suggest trying a HDMI cable before unscribing your HD service. Perhaps there is a problem with the component output from your cable box.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pharmerphil* /forum/post/17372317
> 
> 
> I tried several (Animal Planet SD#61,HD#729. HBO SD is 500, HD=550. Showtime 400, HD 570. Food 26/751. TNT 40/781. etc.) When going from a SD to HD channel I did notice a pause of a couple seconds BEFORE the HD appeared on screen. Then when I get to the HD channel it displays the channel # & shows HD next to that #. I'm certain that getting the HD channel when trying to compare to the SD channel.
> 
> 
> If I had to give a "seat of the pants" comparison of my SD to HD picture I would say SD is a 9 and HD is a 9.3. Both pictures are great. Maybe I'm expecting too much of a difference but you got to really look close and focus on a brick, or a crack in the sidewalk, or scales on snake to see a discernable difference between the two.



Again... much depends on the cameras used to shoot the original content. If they're not HD cameras, but rather "WideScreen SD" just to produce the 16:9 aspect ratio image while not actually producing 720p/1080i resolution, then the content is not going to produce that much of a WOW effect when comparing SD to HD.


Since you have apparently gotten some "all you can eat" option from Charter (maybe for 3 months) I suggest you spend a bit more time comparing actual known 16:9 true HD-content against its cropped 4:3 SD counterpart, before rushing to any 9.0 vs. 9.3 estimate of relative difference.


The 960 is a fantastic HDTV and does some remarkable things with images, but I can assure you that SD vs. HD is simply not 9.0 vs. 9.3. There is a HUGE amount of additional visual data in 1920x1080 vs. 640x480, and the scan lines in both horizontal and vertical directions are MUCH closer together, making it look much more like film rather than interlaced TV.




> Quote:
> Because of this "lack of difference" in picture quality between SD &HD (at least to my wife's & my eyes) I'll probably not pay extra for the HD Package the next time the bill is due.



Well I don't know what the HD package from Charter consists of, but I'm sure that even if you discontinue whatever they sold you you'll still be getting local OTA networks and other "basic cable" channels in HD as well as SD. Please... only tune to the HD channels if they exist. This goes for setting timer recordings on your DVR... ONLY CHOOSE THE HD CHANNEL VERSIONS FOR RECORDING (you may need to "train the wife" here). DO NOT WATCH SD CHANNELS WHEN HD CHANNELS ARE AVAILABLE.


However I don't take issue with your right to get whatever you want from Charter, especially discontinuing some of the real options (like premium movie channels other than HBO and SHO).


But if you've got HBO-HD and SHO-HD at least for this month, please tune in on Sunday night and watch (a) "Curb Your Enthusiasm" on HBO-HD, and (b) "Dexter" on SHO-HD. These are going to both be in stunning 16:9 true HD shot with absolutely genuine HD cameras. And go back and forth to the 4:3 SD channels (with big black bars on left and right since the image is only 4:3) and compare what you see, and tell me you can't tell the difference!


Even your wife should easily be able to see the difference. 16:9 vs. 4:3, 1920 horizontal scan lines vs. 640, 1080 vertical scan lines vs. 480. Come on.


Then, on Thursday night, do the same thing with "Survivor" and "CSI" on CBS-HD. These are two network HD shows in 1080i that are ABSOLUTELY STUNNING in true 16:9 HD and look shameful by comparison in 4:3 SD. Come on.



Welcome to the HD world. Keep it (but delete optional packages with channels you'll never watch).


----------



## pharmerphil

I'm already an avid fan of both CSI & Dexter so I will watch both these upcoming episodes in HD. I'm going to experiment with all my HD channels (about 20 total) before I make the decision to cancel my HD channels. I do think I'll spend $10, including shipping,(Amazon) for a 6 ft. HDMI cable (Mediabridge Ultra, Version 1.3, Category 2) & see if that helps.

If I order a HDMI cable, to replace my "ribbon wire", does this one connection do both audio & video? On the rear panel of my 960 I see the HDMI, Video 7 IN, plug. Then below that plug "hole" there are 2 RCA type audio jack "holes", Audio IN, left & right. Do I have to connect the 2 white ribbon wire RCA jacks to these audio connections or does the one single HDMI connection serve both purposes (video & audio)?


----------



## RalphArch

No - the audio will come to the TV over the HDMI digitally


You may want to hook up the digital out of the STB to a receiver however to get DD 5.1 suround sound, I also have the TV digital out hooked up to receiver as well


----------



## pharmerphil

I currently have both a DVD player & my Charter DVR connected & working fine with my 960. I also have a VCR that is NOT connected at present time. Occassionally I would like to play a VCR tape that I have on hand. What specific connections do I need to connect to get the VCR to work with my TV? What goes where & what "type" connector wire/cable do I need to do so? Thanx again.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pharmerphil* /forum/post/17375586
> 
> 
> I currently have both a DVD player & my Charter DVR connected & working fine with my 960. I also have a VCR that is NOT connected at present time. Occassionally I would like to play a VCR tape that I have on hand. What specific connections do I need to connect to get the VCR to work with my TV? What goes where & what "type" connector wire/cable do I need to do so? Thanx again.



Unless your VCR happens to have an S-video output, some do but most do not, composite video will be your best option. This connection consists of one yellow RCA video connection and two red/white RCA audio connections. Video 1, 2(on the front), & 3 are s-video or composite and 4 is composite only. Take your pick.


Good Luck


----------



## pharmerphil

Don't forget, I'm a "newbie" with very little video expertise. I do not have S video on my DVR. Now, I connect my VCR to what------the TV itself, or the Charter box/receiver? Pls. specify what specific connections on the DVR go to what specific connections on the TV, or is it the receiver. Pls. bear with this amateur as this is all new to me. I just want to make certain that I connect the VCR to the right piece of equipment. In this case, is it the TV or is it the Receiver/DVR box from Charter?


----------



## goon31

I have a strange problem with my Sony XBR800 right now. I just picked up a hd/dvr converter from my cable company yesterday. The clarity is fine, however, for some reason on HD channels in both 720p and 1080i formats, there is a sliver of the bottom portion of the picture sitting right on the top of the picture. For example, watching the NFL games today, the yard lines and people on the sidelines are shown in a small sliver on top part of the picture.


If you guys don't know what I'm talking about I can snap a picture. I went into the service menu and adjusted some of the geometry codes and searched if it was an overscan problem on this forum but couldn't find anything.


Thoughts?


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pharmerphil* /forum/post/17377017
> 
> 
> Don't forget, I'm a "newbie" with very little video expertise. I do not have S video on my *DVR*. Now, I connect my VCR to what------the TV itself, or the Charter box/receiver? Pls. specify what specific connections on the *DVR* go to what specific connections on the TV, or is it the receiver. Pls. bear with this amateur as this is all new to me. I just want to make certain that I connect the VCR to the right piece of equipment. In this case, is it the TV or is it the Receiver/DVR box from Charter?



You're mixing up your terms a little. I understood your latest question to be, how to connect your *VCR* to your *HDTV* to playback existing VHS tapes. My response answered this question. Connect the video and audio out of the *VCR* to video 1 of your *HDTV* using a yellow, red/white RCA cable. Select video 1 on the set to view.


BTW, you did not mention any desire to record on the VCR so this solution does not include that capability.


----------



## pharmerphil

Yep, you're totally correct. I used the term DVR, twice, when I meant to say VCR. You're also correct in that I asked only how to Play a tape and did not specify anything about Recording a tape on my VCR. Thanks to the details & specifics you sent, I now know how to Play a VCR tape. Just in case I may one day want to Record a tape could you pls. provide that info. as well? Thanks again for your response and helpful info.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pharmerphil* /forum/post/17373131
> 
> 
> I'm already an avid fan of both CSI & Dexter so I will watch both these upcoming episodes in HD. I'm going to experiment with all my HD channels (about 20 total) before I make the decision to cancel my HD channels.



I forgot to mention one other show which looks stunning in HD, and that's "Saturday Night Live" on NBC (it was on last night, of course).


The other shows are filmed, or shot using digital cameras to produce a film-like look. But SNL is actually live 1080i (with essentially no motion so that there are no motion artifacts of any kind), and you can't get any better than that. You should be able to see a HUGE difference in picture quality watching the HD version... not to mention the HUGE increase in pure enjoyment from the gorgeously perfect color, 16:9 widescreen image, etc.




> Quote:
> I do think I'll spend $10, including shipping,(Amazon) for a 6 ft. HDMI cable (Mediabridge Ultra, Version 1.3, Category 2) & see if that helps.



It will not "help" anything in a dramatic way. With the CRT 960 component video picture is honestly almost indistinguishable from HDMI picture, although I've come to feel that the HDMI version of the picture from my Motorola DVRs (previously DCH3416 like yours, and now DCX3400) has a small bit of "pop" and sharpness that just looks a little better to me. So now I've opted for HDMI rather than component (although I can choose either, since I have both connections in place), but I've watched HDTV over component video on the 960 for many years, going HDMI only in the past 6 months or so.


Again, the difference is subtle, and depending on the "calibration" of your 960 you may either not see any difference or you may actually prefer one or the other. Remember, the USER MENU settings for INPUT5, 6 and 7 are uniquely remembered. So you can adjust each input separately.




> Quote:
> If I order a HDMI cable, to replace my "ribbon wire", does this one connection do both audio & video?



This was answered earlier. And the answer is that the HDMI cable completely replaces the 5-strand ribbon cable. HDMI provides both digital audio and digital video to the 960. You need nothing else, so you can remove the ribbon cable completely.


And, as has also been mentioned, if you have an external audio receiver and loudspeakers for multi-channel sound, you should connect the DVR to the receiver using an optical connection. The 960 itself is incapable of reproducing multi-channel sound, so you'll only hear 2-channel L/R stereo (just as you currently do from the red/white pair of wires in your 5-strand ribbon cable).


The only difference is that the sound currently being fed over the red/white wires from the DVR is in analog form, being fed to the analog audio input of the 960 (corresponding to INPUT5/6). The job of converting from the 2-channel PCM stereo digital audio that is part of the digital TV program content is being done by the DVR.


In contrast, when you use the HDMI cable from DVR to 960 then the job of converting the 2-channel PCM stereo digital audio in the digital TV content is performed by the 960 itself. This may or may not actually sound better than the analog stereo sound currently coming from the DVR.


Remember that you have audio setup available to you, in both the 960 as well as the DCH3416. Given the meagerness of the 960's speakers, I don't know that there's much that can be done to really make anything sound all that good.


Personally, I don't use the speakers on the TV (I have them disabled) because honestly they're not all that great. Instead, I use a very good set of external 2.1 Altec-Lansing computer speakers instead of the 960's speakers, when I want to just casually listen to something on the TV. These speakers are connected through my A/V receiver which is fed optically from the DVR (which feeds both 2-channel digital PCM stereo as well as multi-channel Dolby Digital audio through the same optical cable).


Otherwise, I have a "virtual multi-channel" headphone setup (also from my A/V receiver) for when I want to do serious listening to multi-channel source. I do not actually have a real 5.1 loudspeaker system, and the "virtual multi-channel" headphone system is my alternative.


----------



## pharmerphil

Took your advice & watched a football game, or two, and Dexter in HD. Kept switching between the SD channel & HD channel just to compare/contrast the difference in video quality. The HD is noticeably a better, clearer, sharper picture. Even my wife remarked about Dexter looking so much better than our "normal" Showtime channel. Thanks again for helping me to appreciate the HD that my 960 now provides!


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pharmerphil* /forum/post/17378242
> 
> 
> Yep, you're totally correct. I used the term DVR, twice, when I meant to say VCR. You're also correct in that I asked only how to Play a tape and did not specify anything about Recording a tape on my VCR. Thanks to the details & specifics you sent, I now know how to Play a VCR tape. Just in case I may one day want to Record a tape could you pls. provide that info. as well? Thanks again for your response and helpful info.



As has been detailed earlier, to play a tape from VCR to 960 you simply connect the audio/video outputs of the VCR to either INPUT1/3 (on the back of the set) or INPUT2 (on the front of the set). L/R audio output from the VCR uses a red/white RCA-connector cable. Video can either be using the yellow composite cable (lesser video quality) or preferably an S-video cable (better video quality) if your VCR has an S-connector. The 960 supports either [yellow] composite or S-video as input for INPUT1/2/3.


To record something from your DVR, you similarly connect the analog outputs of the DVR to the audio/video inputs on the VCR. Note that the DCH3416 only has one set of red/white analog audio outputs... so if you have them connected as part of your 5-strand component video ribbon cable to INPUT5/6 of the 960, then you can't also connect them directly to the L/R audio input of your VCR. Of course if you go the HDMI route then the L/R audio outputs on the DVR are now freed up and you can re-purpose them for connection to the L/R audio inputs on your VCR.


Of course even if you stick with the 5-strand ribbon cable for getting HD from DVR to the 960, you can solve the "need 2 audio outputs but the DVR only has 1 audio output" dilemma by going to Radio Shack and buying a pair of Y-splitter adapters (single end is male, double end is female). You plug the single male end of each Y-splitter into red/white female audio output connectors on the DVR, and then you connect the female ends to two pairs of red/white cables going to both the 960 and VCR. This will effectively give you two sets of L/R audio outputs from the DVR to your two other devices (VCR and 960), even though the DVR only has one set of audio outputs on the box itself.


Anyway, aside from the audio cabling issue of not having two sets of audio outputs on the DVR if you don't use HDMI from DVR to 960, again you have a choice of video cabling connections from DVR to VCR. You can again use [yellow] composite cable (lesser video quality) or the preferred S-video cable (better video quality).


I'm describing an audio/video connection from DVR to VCR assuming you can set recordings on your VCR with "line input" as the "channel". If your VCR is so old that it only allows recording from the old 75-ohm RF coax cable connector (and using the tuner in the VCR to select a channel), well come back at a later time for further instructions.


So... 3-cable audio/video from DVR to VCR, and 3-cable audio/video from VCR to 960. S-video is preferred all around, if possible.


Note: the 960 has separate USER MENU settings memories for INPUT1/2/3 as well. So any customization here has nothing to do with customization you might do for your HDTV watching on INPUT5/6/7.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pharmerphil* /forum/post/17378363
> 
> 
> The HD is noticeably a better, clearer, sharper picture.



And... 16:9 using up your entire wide screen, instead of just 4:3 in the center. You can see the whole tennis stadium, or basketball court, or ice rink, or football field. Nothing cut off on the sides.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pharmerphil* /forum/post/17378363
> 
> 
> Took your advice & watched a football game, or two, and Dexter in HD. Kept switching between the SD channel & HD channel just to compare/contrast the difference in video quality. The HD is noticeably a better, clearer, sharper picture. Even my wife remarked about Dexter looking so much better than our "normal" Showtime channel. Thanks again for helping me to appreciate the HD that my 960 now provides!



Hi Phil,


Glad you see the difference now.


The 960 offers user adjustments to help enhance the picture. There are four different type modes and for HD, most in the forum use the PRO mode (I found the MOVIE mode with it's slightly softer picture more to my liking for both live action and film but that's a personal preference, of course).


These are my HD settings for both PRO and MOVIE if you would like to use them for a starting point:


MODE: PRO MOVIE

PICTURE: 42 43

BRIGHT: 30 30

HUE: R2 R1

COLOR: 41 39

SHARP: 16 19

TEMP: COOL COOL

C. EDGE: MEDIUM HI

C. AXIS: DEFAULT DEFAUL


As pointed out by others, these user settings can vary from set to set based on callibration and since I have made adjustments in the service menu to my 960 they might not work as well for yours. But again, you can use them for general reference.


If you are not sure how to adjust your set, the instructions appear on page 94 of the manual. I DO SUGGEST WRITING DOWN YOUR CURRENT SETTINGS FIRST so you can always return to them if you don't like the way picture became adjusted.


Hope this helps,

Joe


----------



## pharmerphil

Joe, I used your parameters as a guide in "setting" my 960 and my colors are much better now. I varied a little in brightness & hue but that was just for personal preferences. The rest were exactly what you had suggested and they worked well for me. If you have any further suggestions, recommendations, etc. pls. free to let me know. I've learned more about my XBR960 in the past 2 days here at AVS than what I had learned in the past 3 yrs. of ownership. Thanks again.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pharmerphil* /forum/post/17381652
> 
> 
> Joe, I used your parameters as a guide in "setting" my 960 and my colors are much better now. I varied a little in brightness & hue but that was just for personal preferences.



Don't forget "some like chocolate and some like vanilla". Sure, it's personal taste, and that's what you should adjust to.


But just for a contrast, here's what my settings are for INPUT7:


Mode PRO

Picture 35

Brightness 32

Color 31

Hue 0

Sharpness MIN

Color Temp COOL

Clear Edge OFF

Adv Color Axis DEFAULT


I suspect this will look visibly different to you than Joe's. Again, just another set of values for you to try... and then decide for yourself what looks best to you.


I suggest you use some HDTV program like "Leno" or "SNL" for reference which is essentially stationary on the screen, so that you can make individual settings clicks and still see the same scene. That way you can really tell exactly what you're accomplishing, and whether a bit more or a bit less of some setting is helpful or harmful.


Kind of like getting an eyeglass prescription: "better, or worse?"


Dark or rapidly moving sample programs are NOT what you want to use for tweaking. In fact, stationary test patterns are required for geometry adjustements, etc. But for brightness, contrast, color, edge enhancement, sharpness, etc., as stationary a real picture as you can find... with human skin tone predominant... is what will serve you best in your tweaking effort.



Also, one thing that's very critical for natural color on the 960 is to back off the "red push" in the Service Menu (if you've never done it). I'm talking about the four crucial values in 2170P-4 of the Service Menu.


Corresponding to my own personal User Menu values above are my own personal Service Menu values for these four crucial values which will make skin-tone look like real human skin-tone:


VITAL » 7 RYR 0-15 13 (8)

VITAL » 8 RYB 0-15 15 (9)

VITAL » 9 GYR 0-15 5 (9)

VITAL » 10 GYB 0-15 4 (6)


Others may have slightly different values here, but I find that my 13,15,5,4 values are perfect for my User Menu color-related values. Again... personal taste.



Don't forget... settings vary by viewing environment. A set of "Pro" values in a dark room will be very difficult to accept in a room with big glass windows and broad daylight. My values are for dark-room viewing, which is the only way I watch HDTV.


----------



## DSperber

You might also try NBC's Nightly News as another test platform for color adjustment.


They went HD a while back, and the lighting and makeup set and and studio colors were all adjusted to make Brian Williams look his best.


He's always wearing a perfectly white shirt, his makeup is excellent and his skin tone looks perfect, and his tie is typically a beautiful color (e.g. purple or lavendar) and always provides a striking contrast to his pure white shirt.


Plus, he's essentially a still-motion photograph on your screen for 30 minutes, so it's very easy to adjust your various settings and see what you do to his visage.


The other shows (Leno and SNL) are pretty much a riot of color, with lots of different people's skin tone visible. Remember, skin tone varies widely by individual, so you must accept that not everyone will look like Brian Williams even though your color settings on the 960 are "perfect". Leno is interesting because you have several people onscreen at once, so the variety of skin color is obvious... and interesting.


But if you can get the skin color of someone who you're familiar with (night after night) to look natural, you can be confident that the other colors you see are quite accurate.


Proper flesh tone on a "live" 1080i show where people are sitting stationary is the secret to getting your color right. Filmed shows with artistic lighting and constant motion are not good for tweaking.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/17382065
> 
> 
> Don't forget "some like chocolate and some like vanilla". Sure, it's personal taste, and that's what you should adjust to.
> 
> 
> But just for a contrast, here's what my settings are for INPUT7:
> 
> 
> Mode PRO
> 
> Picture 35
> 
> Brightness 32
> 
> Color 31
> 
> Hue 0
> 
> Sharpness MIN
> 
> Color Temp COOL
> 
> Clear Edge OFF
> 
> Adv Color Axis DEFAULT
> 
> 
> I suspect this will look visibly different to you than Joe's. Again, just another set of values for you to try... and then decide for yourself what looks best to you.
> 
> 
> I suggest you use some HDTV program like "Leno" or "SNL" for reference which is essentially stationary on the screen, so that you can make individual settings clicks and still see the same scene. That way you can really tell exactly what you're accomplishing, and whether a bit more or a bit less of some setting is helpful or harmful.
> 
> 
> Kind of like getting an eyeglass prescription: "better, or worse?"
> 
> 
> Dark or rapidly moving sample programs are NOT what you want to use for tweaking. In fact, stationary test patterns are required for geometry adjustements, etc. But for brightness, contrast, color, edge enhancement, sharpness, etc., as stationary a real picture as you can find... with human skin tone predominant... is what will serve you best in your tweaking effort.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, one thing that's very critical for natural color on the 960 is to back off the "red push" in the Service Menu (if you've never done it). I'm talking about the four crucial values in 2170P-4 of the Service Menu.
> 
> 
> Corresponding to my own personal User Menu values above are my own personal Service Menu values for these four crucial values which will make skin-tone look like real human skin-tone:
> 
> 
> VITAL » 7 RYR 0-15 13 (8)
> 
> VITAL » 8 RYB 0-15 15 (9)
> 
> VITAL » 9 GYR 0-15 5 (9)
> 
> VITAL » 10 GYB 0-15 4 (6)
> 
> 
> Others may have slightly different values here, but I find that my 13,15,5,4 values are perfect for my User Menu color-related values. Again... personal taste.
> 
> 
> 
> Don't forget... settings vary by viewing environment. A set of "Pro" values in a dark room will be very difficult to accept in a room with big glass windows and broad daylight. My values are for dark-room viewing, which is the only way I watch HDTV.



That's the truth. Noticed huge color improvement (more natural, better tonal quality, etc.) when changes were made in the service menu. Until one gets used to it, maneuvering through the service manual is actually more difficult than making setting adjustments







. Let us know if you want to give it a try - it's not as scary as it might seem as long as you write down your orginal settings to return to if you make a mistake.


----------



## DSperber

And just to show that there is (for me) a very tiny difference between HDMI and component video, my INPUT6 settings are identical except for Brightness (33 for component video, 32 for HDMI):


Mode PRO

Picture 35

Brightness 33

Color 31

Hue 0

Sharpness MIN

Color Temp COOL

Clear Edge OFF

Adv Color Axis DEFAULT


I think HDMI has a bit more natural "pop" and I didn't need to tweak Brightness for it quite as much as for component video. I know, it's just 1-notch, but it's still something.


Of course this could also be accounted for by a difference in the component video outputs of my Motorola DVRs, where the digital color and brightness are being converted to analog by the DVR. With HDMI it's being determined by the decoding logic in the 960.


Anyway, everybody's 960 is different, and everybody's viewing room environment is different (unless you make your room artificially all-dark... for optimal "Pro" viewing with minimal 960 "boost" for anything), and everybody's viewing tastes are different. For example, I only watch HDTV with the rarest of DVD/BD. So my 960 adjustements are essentially 100% concerned with HDTV programming delivered from my cable company and DVR. Your viewing habits may be quite different.


Incidentally, if you have a DVD player connected to one of your component video inputs and your DVR connected to the other (or HDMI), don't forget that you can tweak EACH INPUT SEPARATELY. The 960's User Menu Settings are remembered uniquely by input.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

"I think HDMI has a bit more natural "pop" and I didn't need to tweak Brightness for it quite as much as for component video. I know, it's just 1-notch, but it's still something."


Hi Dsperber,


HDMI seems to have more punch but as you mentioned, it could be due to many factors. In our local Cablevision forum many have agreed with me that the picture on the SA 8300 HD-DVR was slightly more vibrant using HDMI. In addition, the HD picture on the DVR had more punch to it than that of the SA non-DVR unit. However, with the non-DVR box many actually found component to be the equal or better than HDMI.


And I also noticed a one-notch change in brightness indeed makes a difference in sharpness and color saturation. If I didn't retain those HD test patterns on my DVR I am sure I would be constantly changing the setting for it.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi,


I video taped many films from Turner Classic Movies before the advent of the DVD recorder. Since these titles have not been aired for many years (nor scheduled in the future) I would like to dub them onto DVD for preservation.


A couple of quick questions.


I plan to use the 960's video/audio out for dubbing - the reason being I cannot dub directly from the VCR to the DVD recorder because our previous cable provider's scrambler was messed up, causing the pictures to shake during playback (TCM was not scrambled, the system was just bad). This distoration was seen on every previous monitor I owned but to my joy, I found these tapes played back pefectly viewed on the 960 (hence the need to use the Sony as an in-between). So am I correct to assume the 960 will pass the stable picture through to the DVD recorder?


The other is, I admit, a stupid question. The 960 must remain on when recording for if it isn't, I'll be recording a black screen, right?


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/17428739
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I video taped many films from Turner Classic Movies before the advent of the DVD recorder. Since these titles have not been aired for many years (nor scheduled in the future) I would like to dub them onto DVD for preservation.
> 
> 
> A couple of quick questions.
> 
> 
> I plan to use the 960's video/audio out for dubbing - the reason being I cannot dub directly from the VCR to the DVD recorder because our previous cable provider's scrambler was messed up, causing the pictures to shake during playback (TCM was not scrambled, the system was just bad). This distoration was seen on every previous monitor I owned but to my joy, I found these tapes played back pefectly viewed on the 960 (hence the need to use the Sony as an in-between). So am I correct to assume the 960 will pass the stable picture through to the DVD recorder?
> 
> 
> The other is, I admit, a stupid question. The 960 must remain on when recording for if it isn't, I'll be recording a black screen, right?



Joe, you're pulling our legs on the second question, right? (You know the answer--no output when it's turned off!)


OK, now what I think is the bad news: To my knowledge, the 960 does not "correct" the signal. It just has "wider window of acceptance." So it doesn't stabilize or time base correct the signal, it "just" is more forgiving of errors and displays a good picture with an unstable input. So I don't see that you're going to get better copies by routing the signal through the 960. Go direct and save some processing/signal conversion steps.


The proof, of course, is to try it and see what happens. But a word of caution if this appears to work (in other words, if the DVD copies play acceptably on the 960): Try it on another TV set just to be sure your trusty 960 isn't continuing to mask the signal problems.


Best,


Mark


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BTV Mark* /forum/post/17428981
> 
> 
> Joe, you're pulling our legs on the second question, right? (You know the answer--no output when it's turned off!)
> 
> 
> OK, now what I think is the bad news: To my knowledge, the 960 does not "correct" the signal. It just has "wider window of acceptance." So it doesn't stabilize or time base correct the signal, it "just" is more forgiving of errors and displays a good picture with an unstable input. So I don't see that you're going to get better copies by routing the signal through the 960. Go direct and save some processing/signal conversion steps.
> 
> 
> The proof, of course, is to try it and see what happens. But a word of caution if this appears to work (in other words, if the DVD copies play acceptably on the 960): Try it on another TV set just to be sure your trusty 960 isn't continuing to mask the signal problems.
> 
> 
> Best,
> 
> 
> Mark



Hi Mark,


Thanks for the "bad news" that the 960, in masking the problems, might pass the instable picture onto the DVD which, even if it plays fine on the 960, might still be apparent on other monitors. If the DVD only plays OK on the 960 that is acceptable since on other sets they will then appear no different than the actual video tape and at least it will be preserved.


I previously experimented dubbing directly from the VCR to the DVD recorder and it did nothing to reduce the unstable picture of those particular tapes.


Of course, I wasn't that serious about asking if the power needed to be remain on but I posed the question anyway, having seen wierder things happen in my lifetime (don't forget I admitted it was a stupid question).


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi again, Mark.


Well, you were 100% right. Those old recordings on VHS could not be dubbed onto DVD without re-capturing the instability caused by our old cable provider's messed up system. Used the 960's video output from the VCR and also connected the VCR to the DVR's auxillary input - didn't matter Same with recording directly from the VCR to DVD recorder bypassing the 960 altogether.


Well, at least I still have them on VHS. Only recorded a few mintues using a DVD Ram so I didn't waste a lot of my time or a blank DVD-R.


----------



## Ennui

I moved my 960 to one of the bedrooms when I got my new Sony KD46XBR8 this week. (It has a very good picture, equal to the 960 and bigger but maybe not better.)


FYI, I went through the same CC hassle with my Cable company (Cox) as I did two years ago. I had the 960 on Tivo through HDMI the last year so did not have a CC in it. Cox came on Thursday with one CC and, of course, it did not work. He then got two more and neither of them worked either.


So, he gave up and scheduled another tech for Friday AM. That rep checked out the entire system, replaced the coax under the street to the Cox distribution box on the other side and, to my relief, made the Card work.


All OK now but the message is have much patience and don't let them force you into a $6/month cable box when a $2/month card will do. I now have three TV's with CC (one is a Tivo-feed) and no Cox box. Happy.


FYI.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ennui* /forum/post/17451891
> 
> 
> I moved my 960 to one of the bedrooms when I got my new Sony KD46XBR8 this week. (It has a very good picture, equal to the 960 and bigger but maybe not better.)
> 
> 
> FYI, I went through the same CC hassle with my Cable company (Cox) as I did two years ago. I had the 960 on Tivo through HDMI the last year so did not have a CC in it. Cox came on Thursday with one CC and, of course, it did not work. He then got two more and neither of them worked either.
> 
> 
> So, he gave up and scheduled another tech for Friday AM. That rep checked out the entire system, replaced the coax under the street to the Cox distribution box on the other side and, to my relief, made the Card work.
> 
> 
> All OK now but the message is have much patience and don't let them force you into a $6/month cable box when a $2/month card will do. I now have three TV's with CC (one is a Tivo-feed) and no Cox box. Happy.
> 
> 
> FYI.



Congratulations on your new LCD and sorry you went through the hassle to again get the cable card to work. It's also nice knowing there is a LCD the equal of (but not better than) the 960 (in case we need to replace our sets down the road) even though it took five years to do so. Am sure the LCDs and DLPs of five years back cannot make the same claim.


----------



## RalphArch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ennui* /forum/post/17451891
> 
> 
> All OK now but the message is have much patience and don't let them force you into a $6/month cable box when a $2/month card will do. I now have three TV's with CC (one is a Tivo-feed) and no Cox box. Happy.
> 
> 
> FYI.



I also had cable company (Comcast) hassles setting up my cable card in the 960 - but also kept after them to get it right.


Its worth it for me. Especially how the 960 works via firewire to my DVHS recorder.


Much more useable (and cheaper by $4 a month as you note) for recording digital programming to my D-VHS tape uint. The TV's controls are fine for my use via I-link interface. Firewire via the cable box is more awkward but there is more control of record scheduliinng programming via guide on the cable co dvr


----------



## Ennui




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/17452922
> 
> 
> Congratulations on your new LCD and sorry you went through the hassle to again get the cable card to work. It's also nice knowing there is a LCD the equal of (but not better than) the 960 (in case we need to replace our sets down the road) even though it took five years to do so. Am sure the LCDs and DLPs of five years back cannot make the same claim.



Thanks.


I am not sure how long this Sony LCD unit will be available. It is a triple LED backlight and is no longer available on Sony's website. I got mine through Best Buy at 1/2 the original price from Sony a year ago. Comes in 46 and 55 inch sizes although the 55 price has not been reduced much.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ennui* /forum/post/17453911
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> I am not sure how long this Sony LCD unit will be available. It is a triple LED backlight and is no longer available on Sony's website. I got mine through Best Buy at 1/2 the original price from Sony a year ago. Comes in 46 and 55 inch sizes although the 55 price has not been reduced much.



Well, am sure the model that replaces it will have all the same features plus a few new "cosmetic" ones to up the price somewhat.


----------



## Ennui




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/17453968
> 
> 
> Well, am sure the model that replaces it will have all the same features plus a few new "cosmetic" ones to up the price somewhat.



I have owned the 32XBR100 that was arguably the best SD set Sony ever made. It cost more in 1997 than the one I just bought. The 960 is an exceptional CRT HD set. Neither of these TV's are being made now. It may be that the accountants over-ruled the engineers and that is why the XBR8 design is going away. I am sure it was costly to make. Like the previous two mentioned, I think the XBR8 will rule for another year or two without better replacement.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ennui* /forum/post/17454394
> 
> 
> I have owned the 32XBR100 that was arguably the best SD set Sony ever made. It cost more in 1997 than the one I just bought. The 960 is an exceptional CRT HD set. Neither of these TV's are being made now. It may be that the accountants over-ruled the engineers and that is why the XBR8 design is going away. I am sure it was costly to make. Like the previous two mentioned, I think the XBR8 will rule for another year or two without better replacement.



Could also be the eventual heir to the XBR8 series might not be as good since all know SONY already did that with a tailored-down 970. Just shows a new, higher model number doesn't always mean new, higher quality.


Don't see how anyone could improve over the 960 other than in screen size.


On another subject, forgot that many of the service settings are mode dependent and recently found I needed to re-adjust some of the factory settings that were off when switching from PRO to MOVIE.


----------



## azideam

Other than using a switcher, how are you all hooking up your HDMI-equipped sources? Any issues on color settings having to be compromised when using more than one source through the 960's single input? Just curious as to what you're doing.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *azideam* /forum/post/17476027
> 
> 
> Other than using a switcher, how are you all hooking up your HDMI-equipped sources? Any issues on color settings having to be compromised when using more than one source through the 960's single input? Just curious as to what you're doing.



Was wondering that myself in case we went to bluray and wanted to take advantage of the upconversion if better than the 960's drc (can't upconvert via component).


Assuming the bluray player would have it's own controls for color, tint, brightness, etc. that could be adjusted within the perimeters already set for HD. Would be great if the settngs need not be changed at all.


----------



## azideam




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/17476089
> 
> 
> Was wondering that myself in case we went to bluray and wanted to take advantage of the upconversion if better than the 960's drc (can't upconvert via component).
> 
> 
> Assuming the bluray player would have it's own controls for color, tint, brightness, etc. that could be adjusted within the perimeters already set for HD. Would be great if the settngs need not be changed at all.



That's true. The Oppo bluray player I'm planning to get has decent picture adjustments. I already own the Oppo 983 upscaling player, so they may not be much different from eachother, color-wise. I'm so used to adjusting the display to match the source.


Anyone else?


----------



## unclepauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/17456645
> 
> 
> Don't see how anyone could improve over the 960 other than in screen size.



Yes, larger would be nice. Ansi contrast could be improved I think and maybe sharpness but it's pretty sharp after a calibration anyway. The color is fuxxing stunning though I've never seen a set do color this good. Sorry for my language.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *azideam* /forum/post/17476384
> 
> 
> That's true. The Oppo bluray player I'm planning to get has decent picture adjustments. I already own the Oppo 983 upscaling player, so they may not be much different from eachother, color-wise. I'm so used to adjusting the display to match the source.
> 
> 
> Anyone else?



You might consider hooking up the Oppo bluray player via component cable and let the 960 handle the upconverting for 480i DVDs (I recently purchased a $40 progressive scan Sony without upconversion and the upconverted picture using the 960's DRC circuitry is fantastic). If this works, it would eliminate any concern about messing up adjustments already made for your video seven input.


One way to determine if the 960 provides as good an upscaling as your Oppo 983 would be to connect your current Oppo to component in addition to HDMI and compare both pictures by switching back and forth. Or have you already tried that?


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Resolved the problem of dubbing old films from VHS onto DVD.


Using my DVR's auxillary input helps clear up most of the jittery picture caused by my previous provider's faulty descramblng equipment and captured on tape. It's much more stable than dubbing directly through the 960 or from the VCR but I also need to keep the Sony powered on, otherwise the HD DVR senses a break in the "handshake" and the picture is replaced by a notification that a HD cable needs to be connected. This also allows me to use the DVR's S-video output which provides better overall picture quality from what I would get using an ordinary RCA cable (it really shows for a silent filmed in early two-strip technicolor.


Had to adjust the horizontal size on the 960 from 44 to 53 to eliminate the white line appearing on the extreme left. Perhaps the the width wasn't set properly to begin with but even not, the difference is hardly noticable.


Mind you, some recordings were just so bad that they are not worth dubbing but for the most part, this resolves the problem.


----------



## wbodger

Hey, is there by chance anybody out there that had to get rid of their XBR960 (or 910) and has the Sony stand that they are now looking to get rid of? I just came to be the new home of an XBR960 and need to get it off of the file cabinets...


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wbodger* /forum/post/17522679
> 
> 
> Hey, is there by chance anybody out there that had to get rid of their XBR960 (or 910) and has the Sony stand that they are now looking to get rid of? I just came to be the new home of an XBR960 and need to get it off of the file cabinets...



Congratulations on at least getting the more important part of the duo - the 960. Still the best HD monitor out there for it's life-like picture.


There have been past posts in this forum about alternate stands that could be used for the SONY and if you take a search your're sure to come across them.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

We just got a LG 55 inch LED backlit LCD for our conference room at work.


Couldn't help being impressed by the huge picture and it was indeed quite colorful, crisp and breath-taking -- but to a point. Indeed, the term applied to these technologies I think still accurately describes the one big drawback -"flat screen". Unlike a CRT, on live broadcasts the picture did not seem natural enough to appear like looking through a glass window. There was still no illusion of three-dimensional depth. And the facial details (creases in skin, hair stubble, etc.) seemed less pronounced than what I see on the 960.


Overall it was just the size that made me drool. The picture quality, while obviously impressive, just seemed "flat" compared to that of the 960.


As one can see, I'm a little bit biased when it comes to this set of ours!


----------



## unclepauly

rightly so


----------



## R8ders2K

Has anyone else in the So. Bay Area had to rescan their OTA channels on frequent basis? I'm starting to wonder if my ATSC tuner might be going out.


----------



## PeterTHX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/17540118
> 
> 
> We just got a LG 55 inch LED backlit LCD for our conference room at work.
> 
> 
> Overall it was just the size that made me drool. The picture quality, while obviously impressive, just seemed "flat" compared to that of the 960.



Well, plus you are comparing an LG to a SONY XBR.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Know we many times discussed whether the 960 line doubler performs as well as an upconverting DVD player. Well, I will find out the answer this week.


My old Panny DVD recorder is on the blink - every other disc or so it won't write down the recorded information. So just ordered a new Panasonic EA-18K with upconversion plus a 5x1 HDMI switch and two more cables through Monoprice. Will let you guys know what the results are.


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/17210426
> 
> 
> Does the 960 output 5.1? When I hooked up an optical cable directly from my 960 to my Yamaha receiver audio only came out in 2.0. Both video and audio was fed to the set via HDMI from a DVR.




The XBR960 will output Dolby Digital 5.1 via toslink if the source is from the Digital ATSC and QAM Tuners. If the source is HDMI then it will only output 2ch audio. The reason I suspect is that during the handshake process the XBR960 identifies it's self as a 2ch audio device (internal speakers) and thus the HDMI source agrees and only sends 2ch audio down the line.


I did a short write up in this same thread on the topic, this question has been asked a few times.


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/17540118
> 
> 
> We just got a LG 55 inch LED backlit LCD for our conference room at work.
> 
> 
> Couldn't help being impressed by the huge picture and it was indeed quite colorful, crisp and breath-taking -- but to a point. Indeed, the term applied to these technologies I think still accurately describes the one big drawback -"flat screen". Unlike a CRT, on live broadcasts the picture did not seem natural enough to appear like looking through a glass window. There was still no illusion of three-dimensional depth. And the facial details (creases in skin, hair stubble, etc.) seemed less pronounced than what I see on the 960.
> 
> 
> Overall it was just the size that made me drool. The picture quality, while obviously impressive, just seemed "flat" compared to that of the 960.
> 
> 
> As one can see, I'm a little bit biased when it comes to this set of ours!



Much more impressive is the Panasonic Z1 line, which is just as good as (if not better than) the Kuro that it's trying to replace.

http://www.engadget.com/2009/10/22/p...g-with-perfec/


----------



## R8ders2K

FWIW, there's a 960 on eBay looking for a new home...


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Got the upconverting Panasonic DVD recorder last night.


DVDs do appear more crisper and colorful upconverted to 1080i via HDM as opposed to being fed into the 960 at 480p via component. We still get an excellent picture with the 960 doing the upscaling, however, there is a difference.


Recordings made directly from 480p sources have no problem filling the screen properly at 1080i - but those made from downconverted HD stations do. With a 16x9 picture reduced to 4x3 for recording, a letterboxed picture within a letterboxed picture appears when played back at 1080i. And it cannot be made to properly fit the screen by the 960.


Of course, I get a much superior picture recording off an HD feed even if downconverted so these just need to be played back at 480p with the 960 doing the upscaling for them to appear at their natural size with the monitor zoom it for letterboxed movies. Even so, the advantage of a HDMI connection is an improvement over component.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/17607181
> 
> 
> Recordings made directly from 480p sources have no problem filling the screen properly at 1080i



Did you mean "from 480i" sources and not 480p? That would be normal SD 4:3 content on 480i (formerly, UHF/VHF NTSC), which is kind of what the DVD recorder is mostly intended to do (replacing the SD VCR to transcribe SD 4:3 broadcast NTSC content).


480p is SD DVD, and I don't think you would be copying those using your DVD recorder.


As far as downscaling from 720p/1080i source resulting in unusual letterboxing on the generated DVD, I this this may just be the standard approach to output of HD via SD outputs (e.g. S-video, or DVD recording which is equivalent to VCRs).


I just got a new 32" LCD Sony XBR9 to replace my 15-year old Sony 27" 4:3 XBR CRT which recently died. I also put a TWC HD DVR there, replacing my old SD DirectTV SD receiver previously feeding the 27" XBR CRT. I also have a small 13" Sony XBR 4:3 CRT kitchen TV that I "slave" off of the receiver in the other room (fed from a 75ohm RF coax from the "TV out" of the receiver that runs from the other room to the kitchen), which until now has always been that D* receiver but now is the TWC HD DVR.


Well previously, the picture on the 13" kitchen TV has always been the same SD 4:3 image I saw on the 27" TV in the other room, filling the entire kitchen TV screen. This made sense, since everything was SD 4:3 from D* receiver through all TVs. In fact, no channel other than an SD 4:3 version of anything could be selected because of the D* SD receiver.


Now, with the TWC HD DVR I can select either the 4:3 480i (SD) version of a channel or the 16:9 720p/1080i version of that channel... for viewing "native" via HDMI on the 32" LCD. And it shows up correctly there, either 4:3 480i (with pillar bars on left and right) or as 16:9 720p/1080i, depending on which channel I've tuned to.


But just as with your odd letterboxing when down-converting to your DVD recorder, if I tune to an HD 720p/1080i channel on the TWC HD DVR the down-converted (to 480i) image sent out over the 75ohm RF coax output to the kitchen 4:3 set will vary in appearance depending on whether the content on the HD channel is 16:9 or 4:3.


If the HD content is 4:3 then the image on the kitchen TV appears as "centered letterbox"... so that there are black bars ON ALL FOUR SIDES of the 4:3 image which appears centered inside of the 4:3 screen. It is not "enlarged" (i.e. side-cut) so that the true 4:3 portion of the 16:9 content is presented as full-screen 4:3 on the 4:3 kitchen TV. It appears simply as the 16 (horizontal) dimension used to fill the entire width of the 4:3 set (showing the black bars on left and right of the centered 4:3 image width just as they appear on the 16:9 set) and the 9 (vertical) dimension presented with black bars on top and bottom (as the only way to show a full 16:9 image in a 4:3 area).


In contrast, if the HD content is genuinely 16:9 then a complete 16:9 image is presented on the kitchen TV filling the entire width of the 4:3 screen with the full 16 dimension of the HD image visible but having black bars on top and bottom for the 9 dimension. This is the conventional letterbox presentation for how rectangular movies always used to be presented on a 4:3 screen... using the entire width of the 4:3 screen to show the full width of the rectangular content but placing black bars on top and bottom as appropriate.


If I actually tune the TWC HD DVR to the 480i SD version of the same channel, the true 4:3 image (which again appears as 4:3 on the LCD with black bars on left and right) now appears as full-screen 4:3 on the 4:3 kitchen TV.


Now regarding your Panny DVD recorder, I'm surprised that downconverting 16:9 720p/1080i images to 16:9 480p would not retain the full-screen rectangular image on the resulting SD 480p DVDs. I can understand some shenanigans (like as with my own story above) if you're trying to record 4:3 content broadcast on a 16:9 channel, where I would have thought you'd get full-height with black bars on left and right, just as it appears on your 16:9 screen.


I'm guessing this Panny DVD recorder is actually just a DVD-version of a 480i 4:3 VCR, except that the recordings are in 4:3 480p instead... using the same kind of rules for presentation as in my kitchen TV story above being fed from the TWC HD DVR. So you're seeing transformations in the H and W dimensions as well as down-converting resolution to 480p.


It sounds like they're down-converting to 4:3 480p (as with my kitchen TV story, but to 480i in that case) resulting in the same kind of "miniaturized" 16:9 double-letterboxed appearance if you're recording from a 16:9 HD channel which is showing 4:3 content at that time.


I would guess that if you played back your DVDs on a 4:3 set instead of on a 16:9 set, they would look like my kitchen TV presentation.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi Dsperber,


Sorry I made you go through so much writing after I found out there was a way to resolve the problem after all.


I needed to re-adjust the zoom ASPT service setting in the 960 to coincide with the output of the Panasonic - it was way too high causing the height of 4x3 upconverted picture to be stretched. Decreasing it enabled my recorded downconverted DVD-Rs to fit the screen perfectly. Now, using the 960's vertical expand for 4x3 material I only get the usual black bars on the left and right sides whereas before the top and bottom was cut off way too much. On movies with widescreen aspect ratios I can also now properly duplicate it from my recorded DVDs (I guess the zoom service setting also affects the vertical expand mode). Obviously, picture quality is much better as well since the picture isn't being stretched like silly putty.


So I can now also watch all my recordings in 1080i upconversion and the difference is noticable. And now I know why there were horizontal and vertical expands - it's necessary for upconversion.


I too have a coaxil cable fed to a 4x3 monitor in our den with the same letterboxing effect as with your kitchen set. With Cablevison of New York, we do not have a choice between the SD or HD version of the same channel so on 4x3 material on HD, it's also with bars on all four sides (recently the system was changed to only show the HD feed regardless of which channel is selected).


All this means is less storage space on the DVR and watching 4x3 movies (like recorded off of Turner Classic Movies in HD) with black bars on the side since wide-zoom cannot be used with 1080i and the horizontal/vertical expands stretches are not appropriate.


BTW - my sd signal is output at 480p to the 960 so I mistook the same being output through the S-video to the recorder. Realize now it has to be interlaced.


Thanks for all your help. A Happy Gobble Gobble to you and yours in Marina Del Ray.


Joe


----------



## Joseph Dubin

For those thinking of (or already have) added a switch box for the HDMI port be aware that user settings perfect for one might very well be off for the other.


These are the differences between my newly acquired 1080i upconverting DVD recorder and HD DVR in the MOVIE mode (used the THX Optomizer for DVD and the old INHD test patterns stored on my DVR for HD):


PICTURE: DVD - 43, DVR - 44 (difference of 1)

BRIGHTNESS: DVD - 31, DVR - 25 (difference of 6) *

COLOR: DVD - 28, DVR - 40 (difference of 12)

HUE: DVD - 0, DVR - R1 (difference of 1)

SHARPNESS: DVD - 27, DVR - 19 (difference of 8)


* DVD output set to dark (the better of the two options because the blacks are more pure) - had it been at light the setting would have been lower.


As you can see, there were big differences with brightness, color and sharpness. Both have cool temperatures and high clear edge settings. The 960 has been callibrated.


Out of curiosity, I found the differences in MOVIE and PRO mode for the DVR to be less drastic overall:



PICTURE: Movie - 44, PRO - 41 (difference of 3)

BRIGHTNESS: MOVIE - 25, PRO - 23 (difference of 2)

COLOR: Movie - 40, PRO - 43 (difference of 3)

HUE: Movie - R1, PRO - R2 (difference of 1)

SHARPNESS: Movie - 19, PRO - 23 (difference of 4)


I use the PRO mode for the DVR and the MOVIE mode for DVD so I don't have to change everything but the picture mode when switching between the two.


Have others found they also needed to change adjustments?


- Joe


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Slowly by slowly minute portions of the 960's coating are coming off. Only really noticable when up close with the set off. No affect on picture quality when the set is on and, at most, the one or two small areas that are affect appear more like natural glass reflection than anything more.,


Many have talked about removing the coating, however, is anything available that can cover-up these little gaps instead?


Again, only in a few tiny areas, does not affect picture quality or viewing pleasure and is nothing more that upsetting to me just knowing it's there..


----------



## Kool-aid23

I'm not sure if there is anything to reapply to coat. My screen is starting to do the same. Very annoyed with it. I'm debating if I will use the steel wool method or not.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kool-aid23* /forum/post/17677579
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if there is anything to reapply to coat. My screen is starting to do the same. Very annoyed with it. I'm debating if I will use the steel wool method or not.



Whatever you do DON"T USE STEEL WOOL - you can get permanent scratches on the screen even if all the coating is removed.


If your's is the same as mine, then it's probably not noticable when the set is on except when viewing at a certain angle and even then it only appears as a reflection. Still, it's upsetting just to know it's there, even if camoflauged.


----------



## Kool-aid23

Two members claimed to had success using this method w/o scratches. I'm too nervous to do it anyway. And yes very upsetting.


----------



## richardbk

_Note: I just tried the #0000 steel wool treatment again, only using a little more elbow grease, and it's working! Anyway, here's my original post before trying again with more muscle:
_

I've lurked here for several years; rarely post. Anyway, thought I'd share my steel wool experience. Short version: didn't hurt anything, but didn't help either.


Like many of you, I first noticed the weird horizontal streaks just in the upper left corner, about 2 years ago (bought my set 9/05). Didn't know what it was, nor what caused it, though I suspect movers, as I hadn't noticed it before moving.


Streaks continued to gradually appear on more of the left side of the screen. (Always in perfect horizontal lines… kinda reminded me of the slits in the Titanic's hull). Finally I decided to be bold, and cleaned the screen with Windex for the first time. The left 2/3 of the coating easily came off in minutes (leaving a curious brownish stain on the t-shirt cloth). The right third stubbornly remained. Aside from removing the coating, Windex appeared to cause no damage whatsoever.


Today I decided what-the-hell, I'm gonna try #0000 steel wool (thinking if I ruined my screen, it would be a sign to replace the XBR with a flat-screen). I wet the screen with Windex and went to work—gently—with the the steel wool (which, by the way, is amazingly soft and fine). And it had… no effect. Screen is the same as before. Then I tried Goo Gone, letting it sit on the screen a few minutes before gently rubbing. Again, no damage and no improvement.


I am now convinced that should there be a nuclear attack on Manhattan, one of the few things remaining will be the anti-glare coating on the right 1/3 of my screen.


----------



## richardbk

Wow, the #0000 steel wool is working like a charm. If it's having _any_ effect on the glass, it might be polishing it? The trick is to spray water over the area before you rub, rub firmly, and rub vertically as well as horizontally.


I can certainly understand members being reluctant to put steel wool to glass. Here's an idea - if you need convincing, perhaps you can try it on a corner of _an older CRT_ relegated to the guest room or basement. Just a thought.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi Richard,


I also thought it was windex that caused some of the coating to come off but it seems that others have experienced the same problem without mentioning use of any cleaner.


So even though the coating remains on about 1/3 of the screen I gather you do not notice any inbalance in brightness, contrast or color when watching the set?


And if there is a nuclear attack, be sure to watch the portion of your screen that still has the anti-glare coating to protect your eyes.


----------



## richardbk

Yes, Josephlike everyone else, the "problem" does not affect the picture in any way, shape or form. It just bothered me having the screen "streaked" (before I did anything) or 1/3 shiny-2/3 coated (like it was after the Windex) because I'm a perfectionistor anal, depending on how you want to look at it.


But I must say, now that the coating is completely removed, I'm very happy. Feel like I have a brand new tube! It took about an hour of scrubbing to remove it. I can assure you the screen is beautiful, smooth, shiny and scratch-free, if you're contemplating doing this. But yeah, the picture was great before and it's great now. Cannot see any difference.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *richardbk* /forum/post/17713510
> 
> 
> Yes, Josephlike everyone else, the "problem" does not affect the picture in any way, shape or form. It just bothered me having the screen "streaked" (before I did anything) or 1/3 shiny-2/3 coated (like it was after the Windex) because I'm a perfectionistor anal, depending on how you want to look at it.
> 
> 
> But I must say, now that the coating is completely removed, I'm very happy. Feel like I have a brand new tube! It took about an hour of scrubbing to remove it. I can assure you the screen is beautiful, smooth, shiny and scratch-free, if you're contemplating doing this. But yeah, the picture was great before and it's great now. Cannot see any difference.



Hi Rich,


Great to know the screen remained in perfect condition.

It does bug me just knowing the few small, virtually unseen blotches are there and I'm too tempted to remove the whole coating, however, with my luck I'd somehow make a good screen bad (once when adjusting an old set's agc with a screwdriver (to eliminate video tape flagging) I exerted a bit too much pressure and broke it - if I did anything like that to the 960, I'm sure my wife would then break my head!).


While you didn't notice a differece between the portion with and the portion without the coating, since it was there for a reason do you now notice a bit more glare or did you have to make any adjustments for contrast, brightness, etc?


----------



## unclepauly

Just chiming in with my experience removing the anti glare from an FW900. The black level went WAY up. The glare only got a little worse. It ended up being bright as or brighter than current LCD's, but overall I'd say the image was worse. That's not saying the 960 has the same anti glare coating though, they may be far different.


----------



## richardbk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/17714455
> 
> 
> While you didn't notice a differece between the portion with and the portion without the coating, since it was there for a reason do you now notice a bit more glare or did you have to make any adjustments for contrast, brightness, etc?



Oh, in daylight, the screen is now clearly more reflective, although I can only notice it when the set is off. (Sitting on the couch, I can clearly see myself reflected in the uncoated section; the coated section absorbed much of the reflection, as you know.)


But when the set is on, I don't notice any more glare. (I should point out that I do most of my serious viewing in a darkened room.) Could be my imagination, but the screen seems a bit brighter and snappier now. I think the picture may be, dare I say, better? My set was last calibrated 3 years ago and is due for recalibration (I just moved again), so I've been tweaking the settings for each program or film (usually just a 'click' or two up or down). So whatever change there might be with the coating removed is minor, and well within the "click or two" tweaking I normally do.


If you only have a couple of tiny blotches, I would probably leave the remaining coating aloneparticularly if you frequently watch in a sunlit or brightly lit room (where you might catch the reflection of a lamp in the screen). But at least it's nice to know that a) you can remove the coating without too much difficulty, b) removing it (apparently) won't damage the screen and c) it might actually improve the picture. (Actually I now suspect that the super fine steel wool polishes the glassthe way some people use Bon Ami on a windshield to remove subtle, fine scratches.)


(And remember, if you ever decide to go ahead and do it, try it first on an old TVwith coating or notjust to prove to yourself that the #0000 doesn't hurt anything.)


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *richardbk* /forum/post/17715444
> 
> 
> Oh, in daylight, the screen is now clearly more reflective, although I can only notice it when the set is off. (Sitting on the couch, I can clearly see myself reflected in the uncoated section; the coated section absorbed much of the reflection, as you know.)
> 
> 
> But when the set is on, I don't notice any more glare. (I should point out that I do most of my serious viewing in a darkened room.) Could be my imagination, but the screen seems a bit brighter and snappier now. I think the picture may be, dare I say, better? My set was last calibrated 3 years ago and is due for recalibration (I just moved again), so I've been tweaking the settings for each program or film (usually just a 'click' or two up or down). So whatever change there might be with the coating removed is minor, and well within the "click or two" tweaking I normally do.
> 
> 
> If you only have a couple of tiny blotches, I would probably leave the remaining coating alone—particularly if you frequently watch in a sunlit or brightly lit room (where you might catch the reflection of a lamp in the screen). But at least it's nice to know that a) you can remove the coating without too much difficulty, b) removing it (apparently) won't damage the screen and c) it might actually improve the picture. (Actually I now suspect that the super fine steel wool polishes the glass—the way some people use Bon Ami on a windshield to remove subtle, fine scratches.)
> 
> 
> (And remember, if you ever decide to go ahead and do it, try it first on an old TV—with coating or not—just to prove to yourself that the #0000 doesn't hurt anything.)



Hi Rich,


Be aware that increased brightness can make a picture seem a bit sharper but at the expense of color and black level detail and that you might have to re-adjust your user settings even more. For example, last night I was watching the silent epic "Ben Hur" on TCM and compared it to the DVD-R made a while back to see if there was any difference in picture quality.


Well, I was upset for the broadcast appeared sharper and the color a bit different than my recording (could not re-record it because TCM had messed up the audio). I then realized I failed to change picture modes when switching between the DVR and the upconverting DVD player (with the 960 having only one HDMI input, I have a monoprice switch box - the DVR is in PRO and the DVD is in MOVIE).


The settings are different in the MOVIE mode (especially brightness, which is much higher due to the player's darker black level) and caused last night's broadcast to appear sharper with the early two-strip technicolor a little less pronounced. After realizing my mistake, I realized that what I thought was a crisper picture was actually one that was too bright, causing the color to be a bit washed out.


I then hardly saw any difference between the two (other than the slight softness naturally inherent in MOVIE)


My set has been callibrated and both service and user settings were based on specific test patterns (HD from the old INHD stored on the DVR and the THX optomizer for the upconverting DVD player) so both the MOVIE and PRO are properly adjusted.


So again, the eyes can be tricky. If you don't have any test patterns to go by am sure the technician will be able to adjust the user settings for you as well if they need to be.


- Joe


----------



## richardbk

Thanks for the tip, Joe! Chad B. the technician will be swinging by in a couple of months—can't wait. By the way, let me ask you a question which you probably don't have an answer for: how high above this set do you think an unshielded center-channel speaker would have to be to _not_ interfere with the picture??


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *richardbk* /forum/post/17717949
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tip, Joe! Chad B. the technician will be swinging by in a couple of months—can't wait. By the way, let me ask you a question which you probably don't have an answer for: how high above this set do you think an unshielded center-channel speaker would have to be to _not_ interfere with the picture??



Rich,


I wouldn't even consider an unshieled speaker for if it is placed high enough not to affect the screen, it will would then affect the 5.1 balance and audio direction will sound out of place and not as rich, Rich.


----------



## xbr960_guy

DZ board replacement.


----------



## xbr960_guy

DZ board was replaced on a 3 year old xbr960 to fix the 6 blink problem. Unfortunately, the board replacement caused the picture to be displayed in 4:3 mode and not in 16:9 mode. The technician who replaced the board did not know how to fix this problem and he did not want to start adjusting parameters as he said that the wrong adjustment will cause the screen to go black. I am stuck. I have the service manual, but I am not sure which parameter to adjust to fix my problem as I have not If someone could point me to some clear instructions on how to fix my convergence problem, it would be much appreciated as I would prefer to fix this set rather than get a new TV.


----------



## xbr960_guy

thanks for the spreadsheet. I had my DZ board replaced (due to the 6 blink problem), and the set is all messed up (the screen seems to be in 4:3 mode as opposed to 16:9 mode). Do you have any suggestions for how to go about resetting the parameters?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *xbr960_guy* /forum/post/17743174
> 
> 
> DZ board was replaced on a 3 year old xbr960 to fix the 6 blink problem. Unfortunately, the board replacement caused the picture to be displayed in 4:3 mode and not in 16:9 mode. The technician who replaced the board did not know how to fix this problem and he did not want to start adjusting parameters as he said that the wrong adjustment will cause the screen to go black. I am stuck. I have the service manual, but I am not sure which parameter to adjust to fix my problem as I have not If someone could point me to some clear instructions on how to fix my convergence problem, it would be much appreciated as I would prefer to fix this set rather than get a new TV.



Am sure you already asked but since the problem began after they replaced and installed a new DZ board should not the service center be responsible for restoring your 16x9 picture and have sent a qualified technician who would understand how to adjust service settings?


Did you go through an authorized Sony repair shop? If so, and they won't resolve the problem without costing you further, I would contact Sony customer service to lodge a complaint.


There is also a special number you can get through Sony customer service to speak with its technical office which can lead you through the proper steps.

Good luck and keep us posted.


----------



## fogcity

hey all, after a year of great picture quality and genuine enjoyment of my 34xbr960, it suddenly will not turn on at all. note that the lights on the front don't blink at all. there is no sign of life.


tried switching on with the remote, and by directly clicking the power button.


also tried replacing the batteries in the remote.


and tried leaving unplugged for 10 minutes.


no difference. no life.


all i can think is: power surge? there is no surge protector between the tv and my outlet. in retrospect: dumb. if it was a surge, then i am hopeful it was just a blown fuse, although i'm fearful at the thought of opening up this beast to find some impossibly hidden part?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fogcity* /forum/post/17748574
> 
> 
> there is no surge protector between the tv and my outlet. in retrospect: dumb.



That's not really dumb at all. Even though surge protectors are recommended in the manual, a Sony representative told me that in order for the automatic degausser to operate fully, maximum power is required when the 960 is first turned on. For that, it must be plugged directly into the wall.


And, of course, sorry your 960 suddenly stopped working. Am sure you can get it repaired but don't blame yourself for not using a surge protector.


----------



## fogcity

joseph, thanks for the reply regarding surge protectors. maybe a power conditioner without the surge protector is what i'm after then.


but putting aside future prevention: in terms of fixing the existing problem, it seems likely that the fuse has blown. can anyone tell me where to look for blown fuses, how to evaluate them, etc?


----------



## fogcity

according to its service manual, my 34xbr960 probably has a blown fuse on the AZ board. unfortunately, the manual has no real specifics on replacing this (despite it being such a likely point of failure). has anyone done this before?


it looks like the AZ board is right behind the grid of jacks on the back panel. any chance i can remove just the jack panel area and replace the fuse? would love to avoid disassembling the chassis.


once i do get in there, where exactly do i find this fuse? would i just pop it out like most fuses or is soldering required? anything else i should know or watch out for?


finally: any thoughts about replacing the fuse with a slo-blo version, so this is less likely to happen in future?


any insight appreciated.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fogcity* /forum/post/17750159
> 
> 
> according to its service manual, my 34xbr960 probably has a blown fuse on the AZ board. unfortunately, the manual has no real specifics on replacing this (despite it being such a likely point of failure). has anyone done this before?
> 
> 
> it looks like the AZ board is right behind the grid of jacks on the back panel. any chance i can remove just the jack panel area and replace the fuse? would love to avoid disassembling the chassis.
> 
> 
> once i do get in there, where exactly do i find this fuse? would i just pop it out like most fuses or is soldering required? anything else i should know or watch out for?
> 
> 
> finally: any thoughts about replacing the fuse with a slo-blo version, so this is less likely to happen in future?
> 
> 
> any insight appreciated.



The fuse is very near where the AC line attaches to the AZ board. Unplug the AC from the ac outlet and don't touch any of the high voltage components. They can store energy for a LONG time. The fuse should be easy to spot. Check the old one for continuity. I would recommend replacing it with the exact same spec'd fuse. You will need to slide the rear cover off to access any of the internals. The service manual shows 4 screws along the top, 3 screws on each side, and 5 screws on the back. Don't use a power screwdriver, it will create color impurities on the crt.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fogcity* /forum/post/17750159
> 
> 
> according to its service manual, my 34xbr960 probably has a blown fuse on the AZ board. unfortunately, the manual has no real specifics on replacing this (despite it being such a likely point of failure). has anyone done this before?
> 
> 
> it looks like the AZ board is right behind the grid of jacks on the back panel. any chance i can remove just the jack panel area and replace the fuse? would love to avoid disassembling the chassis.
> 
> 
> once i do get in there, where exactly do i find this fuse? would i just pop it out like most fuses or is soldering required? anything else i should know or watch out for?
> 
> 
> finally: any thoughts about replacing the fuse with a slo-blo version, so this is less likely to happen in future?
> 
> 
> any insight appreciated.



My set showed the same problem last September...3 days after I was laid off from my job!


I knew there was a fuse in there somewhere, but I could not find it. So I reluctantly called for service. The serviceman replaced the blown fuse for me. It took him at least 10 minutes of disassembly to access it. (Unfortunately, Sony did their best to hide it!) He told me I was very lucky the fuse was the only problem. He said in every other case he seen, a circuit board was also damaged, which is why the fuse usually blows. (He credited my whole-house surge protector and the old fuse with saving the board...but who knows?)


My suggestion: Unless you're really handy and comfortable working around electronics, call for service, and hope it's only a fuse.


Best of luck.



Mark


----------



## ColoRyan

I purchased an XBR960 on Craigslist, and want to use the Memory Stick reader. The manual states 'up to 1 gb', but has anyone successfully used larger capacity sticks? If so which ones? I don't want to spend money on a large stick that won't work...


Thanks for any info...


----------



## slayers

Just started having this issue with my set that I have had since 2005. My HDMI port now Fails with all DVD and or blue players but STILL works with my Direct TV BOX? What is so different between the 2? I am outputting my signal to 1080i. It is almost like it fails during the HandShaking process. It will Blink (black screen) and flash and then go black. This repeats every 5-10 seconds. This does not happen at all with Direct TV Via the HDMI. Just DVD players.. Is there any thing that can be done? A Reset Switch?


Any one with any suggestions? I have read something like this happened before on this forum but I can not find that post.


Anything will help.. I fear this set is now out of Warrenty....


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slayers* /forum/post/17794320
> 
> 
> Just started having this issue with my set that I have had since 2005. My HDMI port now Fails with all DVD and or blue players but STILL works with my Direct TV BOX? What is so different between the 2? I am outputting my signal to 1080i. It is almost like it fails during the HandShaking process. It will Blink (black screen) and flash and then go black. This repeats every 5-10 seconds. This does not happen at all with Direct TV Via the HDMI. Just DVD players.. Is there any thing that can be done? A Reset Switch?
> 
> 
> Any one with any suggestions? I have read something like this happened before on this forum but I can not find that post.
> 
> 
> Anything will help.. I fear this set is now out of Warrenty....



Since the 960 only has one HDMI output, are you using a switchbox? Some people have had problems develop with their HDMI switchers.


----------



## slayers

I originally was using my reciever as a hdmi switch box, but since it was not working with my DVD player, i unplugged it and am going directly into the tv from my sony blue-ray s360. Still the same thing happens...


----------



## alspicer

My TV was working fine. I had a digital cable box hooked up with HDMI. Then I decided to hook up a computer, so I could watch Netflix downloads on the TV. It worked fine. I used a DVI / HDMI adapter with HDMI cable going to TV. When I disconnected it, and plugged back in digital cable, it no longer works. I got an error message: GS511_HDCP_DLG. Your TV does not allow display of this program through the DVI input source. I tried resetting the TV to factory state, as described in TV's manual. It didn't help. Any ideas?


----------



## M3NTAL

I have a XBR 910 that has some weird screen issues going on. For instance, my Samsung blu-ray player has an all blue start up screen with white text. The white text has a blurred ghost effect to the right of the text.


Is this a sign of the tube going bad or something I can adjust?


Also. how do I get into the advanced video menu?


Thank you


----------



## Bob99b5

Hello all, I've had my KD34XBR960 since July 2005 and it just started giving me a problem. I'm using it with Cox Cable fed directly into the set (no converter box). The set has lost all its HD channels and won't respond to the channel up/down commands from the remote. I can tune directly with the keypad to analog channels, but not to digital channels. When I re-autoprogram the set, everything works normally until I power it off. Once turned back on, it's back to the same issues.


I've seen one other person report this problem and some alluded to "Service Bulletin E26205993 dated 10/26/2004 TV loses channel memory, resolution is to upgrade the software to version 1.3 part number T99860195, a memory stick)." Trouble is that I can't find this Service Bulletin anywhere on the web (some say it was cancelled, plus it was issued before the XBR960 was even manufactured so I don't even know if it's applicable).


I also heard that the issue only started popping up on cable systems that had over 511 channels. When I ran my multiple re-autoprograms, I saw numbers as high as 65 analog + 400 digital channels but didn't monitor it to the end. So....it's possible that I have over the 511 channels mentioned.


I can call a Sony tech but my concern is there going to come to the house, verify the problem, then hold the set hostage in their shop while they "investigate".


I'd really rather fix this myself if it's simply a software update and would appreciate any help that any of you can provide.


Has anyone else experienced this problem? If so, how did you solve it??


----------



## jdre

*M3Ntal:*


Check and see if it's the same after 10 minute warmup. Might be contrast is too high, sharpness too high, VM/SVM is on and some CRT wear is possible. Can you post a picture?


----------



## M3NTAL

*jdre*


I will let it warm up a little and check it out. It seems to only be an issue with still images.



One other question - how do I adjust the "advanced" screen options?


Thanks,

M3NTAL


----------



## RalphArch

I was successfully operating with a Motorola M Series Cable Card with COMCAST. Last week I shifted to Verizon Fios and the technician tried to set up the same type of Motorola multistream cable card with Verizon FIOS but could not get a pairing to provide information to allow activiation.


He indicated that older TVs such as this one would not work with later cable cards, and needed older versions. (Single stream types?)


I have a hard time thinking that it's a problem with the TV as the same series card worked with COMCAST.


Is anyone out there successfully hooked up with Verizon FIOS and a cable card; and if you are can you tell me the type of cable card so I have Verizon make sure they have the right one on the truck when it rolls?


----------



## fugiot

M3NTAL:


I also had a 910 with that same problem. I know exactly what you're talking about. It's especially apparent with light text on a darkish background, right? I tried everything under the sun to fix it. I scoured every inch of the service menu to find some sort of "focus" fix. Unfortunately, after a month of trying, I decided that there was nothing I could do about it and sold it off for cheap.


I've owned 2 960s and can say for a fact that the problem is present on both 960s(one 960v2 and one 960n), yet at a fraction of the severity of the 910. The 960 seems more like a teeny tiny edge(like a glass reflection), whereas the 910's issue was "smeared" to the right a good bit more. Also, on the 960s, it's only really visible in situations like black text on a white background. It is such a slight problem on the 960s that I doubt anybody else that I know would even be able to see it, even if I pointed it out. Nevertheless, I tried to fix it again. I even thought it might be "dirty" power and tried a Monster power cleaner/stabilizer thing. Did nothing.


I believe that you just have very discerning eyes, and the 910 may not be exactly what you want. If you can, try to swap out for a 955 or 960 like I did.


Funny thing is, I owned a 955 before any of the others and didn't notice the problem, but I'd bet money that if I saw my old 955 again, it would probably be there.


----------



## Th3_uN1Qu3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *M3NTAL* /forum/post/17830287
> 
> 
> I have a XBR 910 that has some weird screen issues going on. For instance, my Samsung blu-ray player has an all blue start up screen with white text. The white text has a blurred ghost effect to the right of the text.
> 
> 
> Is this a sign of the tube going bad or something I can adjust?



It's not the tube. The problem is somewhere in the video circuitry, some failed/dried capacitors most likely.


----------



## fogcity

my 960 will no longer power on. it doesn't respond to either the remote or a direct press on the front panel power button. no blinking lights appear, either.


the service manual says that since there are no diagnostic blinks, the problem is probably the fuse. but i ordered a new fuse, opened the case, replaced the fuse, and there's no change. actually the old fuse wasn't blown as far as i can tell.


note: yes, i have checked that it's plugged in. and there's nothing wrong with the power. even tried a second, known-good outlet. no dice.


does anyone have any diagnostic suggestions? otherwise, i'll be leaving this beast on the sidewalk and checking craigslist for a replacement 960. seems like a repairman's visit and replacement parts would be more than the $300 a used 960 is going for these days...


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fogcity* /forum/post/17869093
> 
> 
> otherwise, i'll be leaving this beast on the sidewalk and checking craigslist for a replacement 960. seems like a repairman's visit and replacement parts would be more than the $300 a used 960 is going for these days...



Sorry you are having trouble with the 960.


Might be worth investing in the repairman since you know the condition of your set compared to whatever is being sold on Craig's List. And if the set on Craig's List needs to be properly callibrated that's also an additional cost to consider.


----------



## pharmerphil

Been "kicking tires" on a POSSIBLE replacement of my 960. Prinmary objective is a larger screen as my old, ageing eyes seem to need larger size. I live in a darker type house as it is a "berm" home & only have windows on one side (South). After reading as many posts & sites as I can (yeah, I'm a novice) it seems that a plasma might be best for my viewing room (mostly dark). My wife & I sit about 9 to 10 ft. from the screen. I think a 50 inch MAY be appropriate for this. I realize that NO new TV will probably match the 960 for color and picture quality. I just wish my existing screen was larger. What would be a good replacement TV to fit my needs? Am I correct that a plasma would be best for this darker room condition & would a 50 in. be about right also? I always respect the opinions from posters here at AVS & have learned lots of good information from visiting here. I hope some of you will be able to suggest/recommend a specific brand, model, & screen size of a new TV that would best fit my requirements. Thanks in advance for any info. you do provide.


----------



## jhirsche

Don't own one myself, but the Panasonic V series get great reviews for the price... other than that, try to get yourself a Pioneer Kuro display... still the best money can buy in plasma, though no longer in production I understand (like our 960's.)


----------



## DSperber

Got some spare change? Sony XBR10: KDL-52XBR10 or KDL-46XBR10.


Go look at these for yourself in a good audio/video store first, before you spend that much money on anything. Then buy it online and save much money... although Sony does seem to have cut the legs off of deep-discounting recently, enforcing "universal discounted prices" both online and in retail stores.


Plasma is very different from LCD in appearance, and your taste for an XBR960 CRT may result in having a strong preference one way or the other for high-end plasma vs. high-end LCD.


----------



## jdre

You may like plasma better, try viewing in the store at your viewing distance to check size. I watch my 34HS510 at 8 feet. My sister got a Sony KDL-52XBR9 last weekend, and it is usable at 10 feet, certainly.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

There are many high-quality LCDs and Plasmas to chose from that give beautiful pictures but unfortunately neither technology still reproduces a picture as well as a CRT. Plasma by far comes the closest but it's drawback is still the chance for burn-in. While manufactuers say moving-pixels has decreased that possibility, the risk is very much there, especially with so many stations having something that remains stationary.


Am sure you will be awestruck with a larger screen flat panel, however, it won't completely duplicate the picture quality one gets on the 960. As an example, it has been quite a while since my wife and I watched in an old VHS tape and we were both surprised how good it looked considering it's low-resolution (especially after being used to HD and upconverted DVD).


----------



## Ennui

I replaced mine with a 46 inch XBR8. Best Buy is still doing deals on them, I believe.


I consider the picture quality equal to the 960, which I still own.


----------



## raouliii

After 6+ years with my 34HS510, I have now moved it to the bedroom and put a Panasonic TC-P54G10 plasma in its place. I am very happy with it.







Very good black levels and PQ. No more geometry and convergence to tweak.







I'm looking forward to calibrating it in the near future.


----------



## unclepauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ennui* /forum/post/17897151
> 
> 
> I replaced mine with a 46 inch XBR8. Best Buy is still doing deals on them, I believe.
> 
> 
> I consider the picture quality equal to the 960, which I still own.



Really? The color? The contrast? The black level is equal? I've seen sony and samsung TV's all over the place and none have even come close


----------



## DJF(NJ)

I recently replaced my 960 with a 50" Pioneer KRP-500M am very, very happy with it. It's "out of the box" performance is phenomenal and I can't wait for Chad B to come install the ISFccc patch and calibrate it. I got it mainly because it was the last, and considered the best, plasma to be made by Pioneer and there was a killer deal on them that was too good to pass. They are next to impossible to find now and the price has gone back up as a result. You may still be able to find some of the other 2nd-gen Kuros out there, however. Next best thing, IMO, would be the Panasonic V-series. At your viewing distance and for hi-def content, I would recommend the 54" size. Plasmas come the closest to reproducing the picture quality of our beloved CRTs and have come along way in terms of improving on image retention and I honestly don't think that should hamper your decision to get one. If you haven't already, check out the FAQ in the plasma section.


I would have loved to have held onto the 960 and waited for OLED, but that now seems to be following SED.


----------



## Ennui




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/17898677
> 
> 
> Really? The color? The contrast? The black level is equal? I've seen sony and samsung TV's all over the place and none have even come close



The XBR8 is the only one I saw that measured up.


----------



## fugiot

From what I have seen, the Sony XBR8 has EXCELLENT contrast. Transcending the stereotypes most people have of LCDs.


To be clear, ONLY the XBR8 performs this well. The XBR9 and XBR10 are downgrades from the XBR8.


So if you are used to an XBR960, your flat-panel choices are really limited to:


Pioneer Kuro(PRO-111FD?)

Panasonic G10 or V10

Sony XBR8



Anything else will not measure up..


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fugiot* /forum/post/17903232
> 
> 
> From what I have seen, the Sony XBR8 has EXCELLENT contrast. Transcending the stereotypes most people have of LCDs.
> 
> 
> To be clear, ONLY the XBR8 performs this well. The XBR9 and XBR10 are downgrades from the XBR8.
> 
> 
> So if you are used to an XBR960, your flat-panel choices are really limited to:
> 
> 
> Pioneer Kuro(PRO-111FD?)
> 
> Panasonic G10 or V10
> 
> Sony XBR8
> 
> 
> 
> Anything else will not measure up..



It's been more than five years since the 960 began leaving the factory. With all the advances in flat-screen technology (LCD, Plasma and DLP) and the hundreds upon hundreds of monitors produced in the half-decade that followed, and only the above three can measure up to the 960, well that says a lot about our beloved set. No better compliment could be given.


----------



## arthurking

I accidentally came across this thread and was shocked to see that there are still so many people stuck with CRT TVs. Come on, guys: CRTs belong to the past and you need to really move on. Do you guys realize how much you lost when you are still watching a tiny 34 inch TV? Things have changed a lot and there are many better TVs outside.

Don't get me wrong: I still have a 32 inch Panasonic Direct View HDTV monitor and I am still amazed how good a normal DVD can look on that TV. However, it is the age of blu-ray, and unless you insist watching only standard definition TV programs and DVDs, you are gonna need a better TV! Once you see the blu-ray's 1080P picture on a large screen (52 inch plus) on either a decent LCD or a plasma, you will not look back. I also have a 32 inch LCD TV and it looks tiny sitting besides my Sony 52W5100 LCD TV.

Only three kinds of TVs can measure up to the 960? I am speechless. How about Samsung 8500 or LG 55LH90 local dimming LED-backlit LCD TV? Before you even bring up the motion blur problem on LCD, I can also criticize the geometry and convergence issues on CRTs that are not even able to show 1920*1080 pixel by pixel. Just my 2 cents.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/17903884
> 
> 
> It's been more than five years since the 960 began leaving the factory. With all the advances in flat-screen technology (LCD, Plasma and DLP) and the hundreds upon hundreds of monitors produced in the half-decade that followed, and only the above three can measure up to the 960, well that says a lot about our beloved set. No better compliment could be given.


----------



## unclepauly

Haha I shouldn't even dignify that post but I own the 960, a 60" SXRD(A3000), a 57" RPCRT(1080i), a 42" LCD(1080P), and soon to be a panny plasma(58 or 65"). The 960 has the best image quality followed by the RPCRT out of all those sets. Just because they don't make em anymore doesn't mean anything other than they were large and costly so the market adapted to make more money, that is all.


Btw I've never seen a blu-ray look so good in my life on this set


----------



## fogcity

I assume others will reply to this comment. My two cents: I would love to find an affordable alternative to a 960, not for screen size (which is about fine for me) but because it's so ridiculously bulky. But I've yet to see anything other than a Kuro with as good picture quality. I have a friend with the Samsung and I'm not impressed with shadow detail, off-axis viewing or the way it handles motion. It also seems to me that there is NO set that can display ALL content, from standard broadcast up to bluRay, as consistently well. Owning a TV that requires bluRay seems a lot like being a lonely audiophile that only listens to those direct-to-disc audiophile test records of drummers playing tympani, because it's the only material with sufficiently high production value. Not my kind of party.


Here's a review of the 960, it's now over a year old but I think still summarizes the "pro" argument well:

http://www.avguide.com/review/sony-w...%E2%80%9D-hdtv 


Anyway if people who have actually owned a 960 (sorry the Panny hdtv is not an equivalent) and are now happy with a plasma or LCD, please chime in with model numbers and your comparison review.


In the meantime, my 960 just broke and I'm buying a replacement 960 through Craigslist for $300. Sure beats forking over $2300 for a LG 55LH90.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurking* /forum/post/17926439
> 
> 
> I accidentally came across this thread and was shocked to see that there are still so many people stuck with CRT TVs. Come on, guys: CRTs belong to the past and you need to really move on. Do you guys realize how much you lost when you are still watching a tiny 34 inch TV? Things have changed a lot and there are many better TVs outside.
> 
> Don't get me wrong: I still have a 32 inch Panasonic Direct View HDTV monitor and I am still amazed how good a normal DVD can look on that TV. However, it is the age of blu-ray, and unless you insist watching only standard definition TV programs and DVDs, you are gonna need a better TV! Once you see the blu-ray's 1080P picture on a large screen (52 inch plus) on either a decent LCD or a plasma, you will not look back. I also have a 32 inch LCD TV and it looks tiny sitting besides my Sony 52W5100 LCD TV.
> 
> Only three kinds of TVs can measure up to the 960? I am speechless. How about Samsung 8500 or LG 55LH90 local dimming LED-backlit LCD TV? Before you even bring up the motion blur problem on LCD, I can also criticize the geometry and convergence issues on CRTs that are not even able to show 1920*1080 pixel by pixel. Just my 2 cents.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fogcity* /forum/post/17926707
> 
> 
> I assume others will reply to this comment. My two cents: I would love to find an affordable alternative to a 960, not for screen size (which is about fine for me) but because it's so ridiculously bulky. But I've yet to see anything other than a Kuro with as good picture quality. I have a friend with the Samsung and I'm not impressed with shadow detail, off-axis viewing or the way it handles motion. It also seems to me that there is NO set that can display ALL content, from standard broadcast up to bluRay, as consistently well. Owning a TV that requires bluRay seems a lot like being a lonely audiophile that only listens to those direct-to-disc audiophile test records of drummers playing tympani, because it's the only material with sufficiently high production value. Not my kind of party.
> 
> 
> Here's a review of the 960, it's now over a year old but I think still summarizes the "pro" argument well:
> 
> http://www.avguide.com/review/sony-w...%E2%80%9D-hdtv
> 
> 
> Anyway if people who have actually owned a 960 (sorry the Panny hdtv is not an equivalent) and are now happy with a plasma or LCD, please chime in with model numbers and your comparison review.
> 
> 
> In the meantime, my 960 just broke and I'm buying a replacement 960 through Craigslist for $300. Sure beats forking over $2300 for a LG 55LH90.



Great review! And most of your colleagues in the industry also agree the new technologies still have not completely reached the picture quality of a CRT.


Of course, I don't want to knock plasmas, LCDs, DLPs, etc. but they do have their limitations. At work we have that 55 inch LG with the LED backlight. As you said, with the lights off the LCD picture is too dark and washed out.


And with the lights on the picture is indeed crystal sharp but is also overall too bright and lacks the deep colors, depth and natural life-like picture that I've become accustomed to. And even the bigger size does not bring out those tiny, minute details that the 960 does.


So again, not to say that the pictures on this and other large screen sets aren't awesome on their own, it's just that advances in size, shape, weight, glare retraction, etc. aren't the bottom line - it's picture quality.


Good luck with your new 960 too.


----------



## dshepard




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurking* /forum/post/17926439
> 
> 
> I accidentally came across this thread and was shocked to see that there are still so many people stuck with CRT TVs. Come on, guys: CRTs belong to the past and you need to really move on. Do you guys realize how much you lost when you are still watching a tiny 34 inch TV? Things have changed a lot and there are many better TVs outside.
> 
> Don't get me wrong: I still have a 32 inch Panasonic Direct View HDTV monitor and I am still amazed how good a normal DVD can look on that TV. However, it is the age of blu-ray, and unless you insist watching only standard definition TV programs and DVDs, you are gonna need a better TV! Once you see the blu-ray's 1080P picture on a large screen (52 inch plus) on either a decent LCD or a plasma, you will not look back. I also have a 32 inch LCD TV and it looks tiny sitting besides my Sony 52W5100 LCD TV.
> 
> Only three kinds of TVs can measure up to the 960? I am speechless. How about Samsung 8500 or LG 55LH90 local dimming LED-backlit LCD TV? Before you even bring up the motion blur problem on LCD, I can also criticize the geometry and convergence issues on CRTs that are not even able to show 1920*1080 pixel by pixel. Just my 2 cents.



It is quite obvious you have never seen an XBR 960.


----------



## RalphArch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RalphArch* /forum/post/17856255
> 
> 
> I was successfully operating with a Motorola M Series Cable Card with COMCAST. Last week I shifted to Verizon Fios and the technician tried to set up the same type of Motorola multistream cable card with Verizon FIOS but could not get a pairing to provide information to allow activiation.
> 
> 
> He indicated that older TVs such as this one would not work with later cable cards, and needed older versions. (Single stream types?)
> 
> 
> I have a hard time thinking that it's a problem with the TV as the same series card worked with COMCAST.
> 
> 
> Is anyone out there successfully hooked up with Verizon FIOS and a cable card; and if you are can you tell me the type of cable card so I have Verizon make sure they have the right one on the truck when it rolls?



No one responded but for info of others and to save a hassle - the install yesterday was unsuccessful - the technician couldn't get the numbers out of the tv


According to an on line chat session with SONY our sets are only guaranteed to work with single stream cards (and the Verizon tech didn't have one)


So even though I know it worked before with comcast and a multistream card - I have to call Verizon and see if they will special order a single stream card for my tv and set up another appointment.


Edit - Verizon tech showed up yesterday. Even though customer service indicated need for a single stream card he didn't have a clue when he called 30 mins before appointment and had to go back to his office to get a single stream\\\\


He, like me - didn't beleive you need a single stream so he first tried a Motorola multi-stream; which again failed


After trying with the single stream the connection was made with Verizon and the numbers were available to activate. Alll is now fine with my 960xbr and the cable card with Verizon FIOS


----------



## arthurking

Indeed I have never seen a XBR 960. You may call me ignorant but I'd rather watch my blu-ray on a decent, big screen rather than on a small 34 inch CRT TV, no matter how good it is. Actually, I can hardly believe the picture on this CRT TV is leaps and bounds better than Samsung 8500 or LG 55LH90. Talking about image quality or color accuracy, can this XBR 960 be compared with Sony broadcast level professional monitors? A 17 inch one can easily cost between $3k-$6k. Would you be willing to watch TVs or blu-rays on such a monitor that will definitely give you a superior picture? So you see that picture quality is not the only important thing to consider. It is the whole package that matters.

Oh, by the way, Vizio (I guess the kind of brand that will be belittled here) is gonna have a 72 inch, 480HZ, LED-backlit, 3D-ready, 1080P LCD TV at $3500 later this year. I will upgrade my current Sony 52W5100 to this one by that time while I guess you can keep enjoying your beloved 34XBR960. Wait a second, is XBR960 even capable of showing native 720P, not mentioning 1080P, signal?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dshepard* /forum/post/17929254
> 
> 
> It is quite obvious you have never seen an XBR 960.


----------



## MobiusBP




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurking* /forum/post/17926439
> 
> 
> I accidentally came across this thread and was shocked to see that there are still so many people stuck with CRT TVs. Come on, guys: CRTs belong to the past and you need to really move on. Do you guys realize how much you lost when you are still watching a tiny 34 inch TV? Things have changed a lot and there are many better TVs outside.
> 
> Don't get me wrong: I still have a 32 inch Panasonic Direct View HDTV monitor and I am still amazed how good a normal DVD can look on that TV. However, it is the age of blu-ray, and unless you insist watching only standard definition TV programs and DVDs, you are gonna need a better TV! Once you see the blu-ray's 1080P picture on a large screen (52 inch plus) on either a decent LCD or a plasma, you will not look back. I also have a 32 inch LCD TV and it looks tiny sitting besides my Sony 52W5100 LCD TV.
> 
> Only three kinds of TVs can measure up to the 960? I am speechless. How about Samsung 8500 or LG 55LH90 local dimming LED-backlit LCD TV? Before you even bring up the motion blur problem on LCD, I can also criticize the geometry and convergence issues on CRTs that are not even able to show 1920*1080 pixel by pixel. Just my 2 cents.



I dont know how many people here use it as their main TV, but i personally use it for a bedroom tv, and i think sets like these Widescreen DV-CRT's do very well in these settings. My dad owns a Toshiba 47ZV650U, and personally, i cannot stand the backlight-bleed on it. Sure you can spend more or research more to find an LCD that does well with minimal-backlight bleed, but for the $250 i spent buying and using it as a bedroom tv, and watching blu-ray's on it, its a very fine tv for my needs.


I recently watched Star Trek on blu-ray with this set, and the first thing i notice was that the deep dark space was just that, deep and dark.










EDIT: 720p is possible with these tv's, but i do not know if its native or not. But really, since this is a crt, what is native for these sets? The main picture itself is analog, so in theory, it can display whatever its fed, provided that the 'guns' can properly picture it. But it then all comes down to the actual electronics inside, where it governs what can and cannot be displayed.


----------



## RalphArch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fogcity* /forum/post/17926707
> 
> 
> Here's a review of the 960, it's now over a year old but I think still summarizes the "pro" argument well:
> 
> http://www.avguide.com/review/sony-w...%E2%80%9D-hdtv
> 
> 
> .



That review left out a very significant feature for me that was important in my decision to buy a used 960 - the firewire capability. I can archive whatever I want (copy once) onto my D-VHS.


Also don't think it mentions the upconversion of DRC for 480i material; but frankly I would rather watch 480i on my other Sony SFP - the 36 4:3 KD955xs (yes I am a dinosaur and like big CRTs)


----------



## Joseph Dubin

"Talking about image quality or color accuracy, can this XBR 960 be compared with Sony broadcast level professional monitors? A 17 inch one can easily cost between $3k-$6k. Would you be willing to watch TVs or blu-rays on such a monitor that will definitely give you a superior picture? So you see that picture quality is not the only important thing to consider. It is the whole package that matters."


Arthur,


One should never compare consumer grade to that on the professional level.


And of course there are many factors a "consumer" must take into account, but after those of budget, room space and manufacturer reputation, how rich the picture looks is usually the next thing one then considers (need it be CRT, LCD, Plasma or DLP).


----------



## robi1138




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurking* /forum/post/17926439
> 
> 
> I accidentally came across this thread and was shocked to see that there are still so many people stuck with CRT TVs. Come on, guys: CRTs belong to the past and you need to really move on. Do you guys realize how much you lost when you are still watching a tiny 34 inch TV? Things have changed a lot and there are many better TVs outside.
> 
> Don't get me wrong: I still have a 32 inch Panasonic Direct View HDTV monitor and I am still amazed how good a normal DVD can look on that TV. However, it is the age of blu-ray, and unless you insist watching only standard definition TV programs and DVDs, you are gonna need a better TV! Once you see the blu-ray's 1080P picture on a large screen (52 inch plus) on either a decent LCD or a plasma, you will not look back. I also have a 32 inch LCD TV and it looks tiny sitting besides my Sony 52W5100 LCD TV.
> 
> Only three kinds of TVs can measure up to the 960? I am speechless. How about Samsung 8500 or LG 55LH90 local dimming LED-backlit LCD TV? Before you even bring up the motion blur problem on LCD, I can also criticize the geometry and convergence issues on CRTs that are not even able to show 1920*1080 pixel by pixel. Just my 2 cents.



Would it kill you to write one intelligent post? And you call me a plasma fanboy...you go from the plasma section to the LCD section and now the CRT section to spread your nonsense. Have you noticed how no one EVER agrees with your drivel? Do you even understand PQ? You do realize that your beloved LCD technology is generally considered the worst in the industry? Do you grasp this?

Even though I retired my CRT RPTV recently for a plasma, I still know that the best CRTs are the still the epitome of PQ. No technology is purer. Do you understand the words I'm typing? CRT just happens to be bulky and thin is more important to you than PQ. Plasma comes close to CRT in many respects but not everything. Why do you think studio monitors are ALL still CRT? How many ways does this need to be explained to you?


Go enjoy your LCD but leave the technical discussions to people that actually have a semblance of a clue.


----------



## salty

Seems to me that posting in the CRT forums that CRT technology is outmoded is basically just trolling. Personally, I will enjoy my big beautiful glass TV's as long as I can still find them.


----------



## arthurking

You can call me LCD fanboy if you want. I have no problem in acknowledging Plasma and CRT TVs' advantages. But it seems to me that you and other guys have difficulty in being open-minded. As I wrote in another thread, I will not respond to your post anymore. I welcome objective discussions but not personal attack from people like you.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *robi1138* /forum/post/17935043
> 
> 
> Would it kill you to write one intelligent post? And you call me a plasma fanboy...you go from the plasma section to the LCD section and now the CRT section to spread your nonsense. Have you noticed how no one EVER agrees with your drivel? Do you even understand PQ? You do realize that your beloved LCD technology is generally considered the worst in the industry? Do you grasp this?
> 
> Even though I retired my CRT RPTV recently for a plasma, I still know that the best CRTs are the still the epitome of PQ. No technology is purer. Do you understand the words I'm typing? CRT just happens to be bulky and thin is more important to you than PQ. Plasma comes close to CRT in many respects but not everything. Why do you think studio monitors are ALL still CRT? How many ways does this need to be explained to you?
> 
> 
> Go enjoy your LCD but leave the technical discussions to people that actually have a semblance of a clue.


----------



## dshepard




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurking* /forum/post/17935948
> 
> 
> You can call me LCD fanboy if you want. I have no problem in acknowledging Plasma and CRT TVs' advantages. But it seems to me that you and other guys have difficulty in being open-minded. As I wrote in another thread, I will not respond to your post anymore. I welcome objective discussions but not personal attack from people like you.



This to me is a troll, but just in case it is not, you say you want an open minded discussion, yet it is apparent that the ONLY thing important to you is size. Hands down the XBR960 is not the biggest TV, maybe even small by today's standards. BUT, the picture quality has *yet* to be beat in CONSUMER grade electronics. For years (and maybe still today) the XBR 960 was/is used as the CONSUMER grade reference that *ALL* other HDTV were used to compare. The picture quality is that good.


Not to sound like a cliche, but to me (and others) "Size does not matter".


P.S. Check the specs, the XBR 960 natively displays 720p and 1080i. 1080p is not much of an issue on this "small" screen.


----------



## robi1138




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dshepard* /forum/post/17936340
> 
> 
> This to me is a troll, but just in case it is not, you say you want an open minded discussion, yet it is apparent that the ONLY thing important to you is size. Hands down the XBR960 is not the biggest TV, maybe even small by today's standards. BUT, the picture quality has *yet* to be beat in CONSUMER grade electronics. For years (and maybe still today) the XBR 960 was/is used as the CONSUMER grade reference that *ALL* other HDTV were used to compare. The picture quality is that good.
> 
> 
> Not to sound like a cliche, but to me (and others) "Size does not matter".
> 
> 
> P.S. Check the specs, the XBR 960 natively displays 720p and 1080i. 1080p is not much of an issue on this "small" screen.




Has it sunk in _now_, arthur?


Probably not.


----------



## robi1138




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *arthurking* /forum/post/17935948
> 
> 
> You can call me LCD fanboy if you want. I have no problem in acknowledging Plasma and CRT TVs' advantages. But it seems to me that you and other guys have difficulty in being open-minded. As I wrote in another thread, I will not respond to your post anymore. I welcome objective discussions but not personal attack from people like you.



You acknowledge nothing (just like the posts in the other threads). You state opinions and indicate a clear lack of knowledge of not only how PQ is defined but also how little you know of the various display technologies. You regularly imply that LCD is great because of it's market share. You earlier stated that VHS was "better" than Beta because _it_ won.


I would not resort to personal attacks if you had one shred of justifiable evidence in your favor about _any_ comments you've made thus far. Not only that, you have not been successful (hell, you haven't even _tried_) in contradicting my views. Your entire argument against everything I've stated in the threads is that I'm a "fanboy"...WOW!...you got me.


P.S. Note all the other responders to your ridiculous posts. See how NO ONE has agreed with you yet? I'd say that's a pretty big market share.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

"I welcome objective discussions"


There was nothing objective in your original email other than sarcasim. No credible points open to debate, just rantings.


"but not personal attacks".


Please remember your original email had infantile remarks aimed not at any individual but putting us down as a group.


----------



## fogcity

I've got some geometry problems with my 960 and I could use some help. Can anyone tell me where to look in the service menus to adjust the following problems?


- picture bows out in the middle, ie the left side looks like this: ( rather than this: | and the right side is ) rather than |


- picture is skewed so the top left corner is lower than top right corner, and lower left corner is lower than the lower right corner.


----------



## unclepauly

for the left side being higher than the right there is an option to tilt I forget what it's called atm. Not sure how to fix the bowing


----------



## fogcity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/17942324
> 
> 
> for the left side being higher than the right there is an option to tilt I forget what it's called atm. Not sure how to fix the bowing



Thanks for the reply unclepauly. I think youre referring to the tilt setting accessible through the regular setup menu. If so, that isn't the right solution as it tilts the left and right sides which are currently vertical.


I think there's a service menu setting that bends the picture like a parallellogram. Something like that, possibly in combo with a tilt setting, is necessary or I'd just be left with one problem istead of the other.


----------



## drvais

Could someone please elaborate on the firewire output/input of this set and its capabilities? I have a DVHS deck but I haven't used it to record something in forever so I've forgotten a lot about the possibilities of firewire and the XBR.


----------



## high def mon

Fogcity, you might get more responses by posting in the Display Calibration forum here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/searc...rchid=14626136


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fogcity* /forum/post/17942095
> 
> 
> I've got some geometry problems with my 960 and I could use some help. Can anyone tell me where to look in the service menus to adjust the following problems?
> 
> 
> - picture bows out in the middle, ie the left side looks like this: ( rather than this: | and the right side is ) rather than |
> 
> 
> - picture is skewed so the top left corner is lower than top right corner, and lower left corner is lower than the lower right corner.



The third page of this Sony Service Code Thread Page1 - xbr960_conv_geom_p7-10.pdf may help. I always recommend a cross-hatch pattern be used for geometry adjustments.


----------



## RalphArch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drvais* /forum/post/17944081
> 
> 
> Could someone please elaborate on the firewire output/input of this set and its capabilities? I have a DVHS deck but I haven't used it to record something in forever so I've forgotten a lot about the possibilities of firewire and the XBR.



What exactly did you want to know? I had mine working fine to record/playback HD from COMCAST with a cable card - it recorded all the premium content fine but the DVHS tapes are expensive at $7 or so and they only lastlike 150 minutes at HD speed. You can record all copy always (e.g. broadcast tv) and copy once (like HBO and Showtime and other premium channels); but not copy never (pay per view).


Currently I have shifted to Verizon Fios and I don't have a cable card working yet so can only record unencrpted material like broadcast tv..Whena tech comes this Friday with a single stream cable card I should be able to record all the programming I am subscribed to.


By the way you can also playback material recorded on another DVHS deck, eg one conneced to a cable company dvr via firewire, and play that back on the dvhs deck connedted to the 960xbr - so you are not stuck with dedicating hd storage in the dvr.


Another use is for direct viewing of camcorder tapes via firewire instead of using the composite video inputs.


I have also hooked mine up to computer and toyed with things like using the string of firewire devices to edit / record both personal videos and things like strip out commercials but haven't gone too far with any degree of success (hasn't been a priority for me as commercial stripping with HDTV2mpg is so easy on files recorded OTA or via a QAM tuner (MyHD or HDHomerun in my case).


----------



## richardbk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/17717662
> 
> 
> Hi Rich,
> 
> 
> Be aware that increased brightness can make a picture seem a bit sharper but at the expense of color and black level detail and that you might have to re-adjust your user settings even more. For example, last night I was watching the silent epic "Ben Hur" on TCM and compared it to the DVD-R made a while back to see if there was any difference in picture quality.
> 
> 
> Well, I was upset for the broadcast appeared sharper and the color a bit different than my recording (could not re-record it because TCM had messed up the audio). I then realized I failed to change picture modes when switching between the DVR and the upconverting DVD player (with the 960 having only one HDMI input, I have a monoprice switch box - the DVR is in PRO and the DVD is in MOVIE).
> 
> 
> The settings are different in the MOVIE mode (especially brightness, which is much higher due to the player's darker black level) and caused last night's broadcast to appear sharper with the early two-strip technicolor a little less pronounced. After realizing my mistake, I realized that what I thought was a crisper picture was actually one that was too bright, causing the color to be a bit washed out.
> 
> 
> I then hardly saw any difference between the two (other than the slight softness naturally inherent in MOVIE)
> 
> 
> My set has been callibrated and both service and user settings were based on specific test patterns (HD from the old INHD stored on the DVR and the THX optomizer for the upconverting DVD player) so both the MOVIE and PRO are properly adjusted.
> 
> 
> So again, the eyes can be tricky. If you don't have any test patterns to go by am sure the technician will be able to adjust the user settings for you as well if they need to be.
> 
> 
> - Joe



Well, just had my set calibrated by Chad B. yesterday. He had with him a small "piece" of a removed anti-glare _screen_ from a 960! It looked nothing like the anti-glare _coating_ that was on mine; Chad's was an actual plastic-y looking thin "screen" that you could pick up and hold – it had edges; you could easily imagine it having to be _peeled_ off the screen! The anti-glare coating on mine appeared to be just that – a coating that was somehow _applied_; it was never something you could actually peel or pick up and hold, like Chad's sample. Interesting!


Anyway, Chad did a marvelous job with the calibration. Spent several hours getting everything just right – that includes removing the back of the set to add a few tiny magnets for correct geometry. My set has never looked this good!


And yes, I asked Chad about drawbacks re: picture quality if the anti-glare coating is removed. He said 'no' – aside from giving up a little anti-glare protection if there is light in the room, picture quality is not compromised in any way and might even be better. As far as how no coating affects brightness, color or any other settings - absolutely not a factor. Remember, calibration is determined from readings he gets with his calibration equipment hooked up to the set – and the set doesn't know whether you have anti-glare coating or not.


So, all in all, a good day! And here's an idea: rather then dropping a couple of thousand on a new plasma, simply have your 960 recalibrated; it's like getting a brand new set (with a breathtaking picture) for just a few hundred bucks. I'm now comfortable keeping mine for several years, or at least until flat-screen technology stops improving so rapidly. (I hate buying something only to learn there's something significantly better – or cheaper - 7 months later.)


And if anyone's looking for someone to calibrate their set, Chad's your man!


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi Rich,


Thanks for the follow-up and so glad Chad did a great job re-callibrating your set. Perhaps others in the forum who had the coating removed noticed a slightly brighter picture because they did not adjust their service or user settings to compensate for it.


I callibrated most of the settings myself, based on comparing the sony service chart against the consensus of personal adjustments posted in the Sony Service Code forum. With the aid of HD test patterns I found most of the consensus values different from the Sony chart did enhance picture quality but since each set has it's own little quirks there were also a few that needed values in-between the range suggested by Sony and the forum members.


I found that my set was overall poorly callibrated by the factory technician. So many settings were neither the ones recommended by Sony or anywhere close to the consensus range and it showed once the items were re-set. Especially off was geometry and overscan. Fortunately, I was able to properly adjust both with the aid of an external cross-hatch pattern and guess I was just lucky that the magnets were OK so I was able to get everything straight and in proportion.


And unless somebody really wants a much bigger picture size (46 inches or more) I don't know why one would want to replace a perfectly working 960 (I say 46 inches because a flat screen against the wall would cause one to sit about two feet further away from the screen due to the 960's 26 inch depth -- six inches more would make a 40 inch screen two feet further away only appear a slightly bit bigger than a 34 inch when sitting closer).


Again, happy that Chad did such a great job. If it wasn't for the help I found with the Sony Service Code forum I'm sure he would have been over at my place as well.


P.S. I'm most likely going to replace my SD tube set in the den with a budget level 32 inch Sony LCD (1080p) - while it's not the 960 it should be sufficent for our secondary HT set-up. Another 960 would crush the den furniture and probably be right on top of me as well.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/17993139
> 
> 
> P.S. I'm most likely going to replace my SD tube set in the den with a budget level 32 inch Sony LCD (1080p) - while it's not the 960 it should be sufficent for our secondary HT set-up.



Exactly my thinking when my SD Sony 27" Trinitron (circa 1995) finally died two months back. It lived in a TV "hole" in an entertainment built-in wall system of my den which had been built to hold just about that size "table-top" TV in that opening.


Turns out a 32" 16x9 flatscreen LCD on its own base was just about perfect to fill in the space previously occupied by the 27" 4x3 CRT, at least width-wise. Height-wise it was pretty good as well, because the LCD stands on its own base which adds some additional inches to the height.


Anyway, Sony had slashed the price on its 32XBR9 120hz 1080p model down to $497, which was exactly the kind of "budget" price I was looking to spend for a rarely used but necessary TV in that room.


It's not anything like my 34XBR960, but is perfectly acceptable and "good enough" for my needs there. Most importantly, it has sufficient SD/HD inputs to support my needs in that room... both HD-DVR, HD-DVHS, and SD-VCR.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/17997171
> 
> 
> Exactly my thinking when my SD Sony 27" Trinitron (circa 1995) finally died two months back. It lived in a TV "hole" in an entertainment built-in wall system of my den which had been built to hold just about that size "table-top" TV in that opening.
> 
> 
> Turns out a 32" 16x9 flatscreen LCD on its own base was just about perfect to fill in the space previously occupied by the 27" 4x3 CRT, at least width-wise. Height-wise it was pretty good as well, because the LCD stands on its own base which adds some additional inches to the height.
> 
> 
> Anyway, Sony had slashed the price on its 32XBR9 120hz 1080p model down to $497, which was exactly the kind of "budget" price I was looking to spend for a rarely used but necessary TV in that room.
> 
> 
> It's not anything like my 34XBR960, but is perfectly acceptable and "good enough" for my needs there. Most importantly, it has sufficient SD/HD inputs to support my needs in that room... both HD-DVR, HD-DVHS, and SD-VCR.



Hi DS,


I'm going to replace the den's 4x3 set even though it's working fine because CV of New York City is to soon scramble all it's stations so we won't be able to use the 960's twin view using a splitter (my better half likes to watch QVC while I'm catching something else). Though CV does provide picture-in-picture, the second screen is way too small and not adjustable in size. This way we can both watch what we want and natch I'd rather it be in HD with a second box.



Going to check out the Sony you mentioned for the closest I found about that price was the 60 Hz model for $479. Will let you know.


Joe


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/17997785
> 
> 
> Going to check out the Sony you mentioned for the closest I found about that price was the 60 Hz model for $479. Will let you know.



Well... don't hold your breath. Turns out my memory is apparently failing! It definitely was the Bravia KDL-32XBR9 120hz 1080p model, but $497 was wrong.


I thought it was $497, but it apparently was $697! Still down about $500 from its original MSRP I think, but not the $497 I thought it was. I'm an idiot.


I actually paid $780, which included tax plus "California recycling charge" which the state adds to try and cover their costs associated with the disposing of electronic equipment properly. This charge varies by the size of the set you buy.


Sorry for my mistake.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/17997952
> 
> 
> Well... don't hold your breath. Turns out my memory is apparently failing! It definitely was the Bravia KDL-32XBR9 120hz 1080p model, but $497 was wrong.
> 
> 
> I thought it was $497, but it apparently was $697! Still down about $500 from its original MSRP I think, but not the $497 I thought it was. I'm an idiot.
> 
> 
> I actually paid $780, which included tax plus "California recycling charge" which the state adds to try and cover their costs associated with the disposing of electronic equipment properly. This charge varies by the size of the set you buy.
> 
> 
> Sorry for my mistake.



Ha, thought you were wrong cause I couldn't find it anywhere near that price!










Since it is my secondary HT setup I don't think I'd be upset with just a 60hz set. Am also considering the less expensive one at 720p since it got so many great reviews.


And now my Yamaha receiver has crackling coming out of the right rear speaker - more noticiable on mono movie and stereo enhancements than 5.1. Changed wires and speakers - still there. And since it's almost non-existant on 5.1, I think I can contend with it since I'm also trying not to raise up the credit card that much more .


If I decide on the 720p unit I'll use my newer progressive scan DVD player with it (don't think the difference for a DVD would be that much going from 480p to just 720p on a 32 inch LCD) but if I decide on 1080p I would want an upconverting player as well.


What do you and others think about 720p versus 1080p for just a 32 inch screen?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/17998575
> 
> 
> What do you and others think about 720p versus 1080p for just a 32 inch screen?



Depends on your needs.


I don't have a DVD or BluRay player in that room, only 1080i/720p sources (HD-DVR and HD-DVHS) and 480i (SD-SVHS). So I don't really have any pressing concern about 1080p content.


I simply bought that 32XBR9 because it was the right size, looked good and had a pretty good picture, sounded pretty decent with the set's speakers, was on sale and the price was about what I was willing to spend.


Personally, I would not try to save some money and go with a 720p set. 1080i (i.e. 1080p, today, which is the new standard) is simply non-negotiable, even for 32" displays... at least for me. I think I can see the difference, and can't not noticing.


Looks like the price on the XBR9 has come down another $100 since I bought mine.


----------



## RalphArch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/17997785
> 
> 
> Hi DS,
> 
> 
> I'm going to replace the den's 4x3 set even though it's working fine because CV of New York City is to soon scramble all it's stations so we won't be able to use the 960's twin view using a splitter (my better half likes to watch QVC while I'm catching something else). Though CV does provide picture-in-picture, the second screen is way too small and not adjustable in size. This way we can both watch what we want and natch I'd rather it be in HD with a second box.
> 
> 
> 
> Going to check out the Sony you mentioned for the closest I found about that price was the 60 Hz model for $479. Will let you know.
> 
> 
> Joe




CV? Assuming it's cable or FIOS scrambling the locals would be illegal by the cable co. Not that they need to be analog, but they have to be clear. Down here I also get a lot of local govment and local service channels clear, as well as QVC and other channels that Verizon doesn't want to encrypt.


And remember you can save every month if you get a cable card set like our 960's which gives you all your subscribe channels. For me Verizon charges $4 for a cable card, $10 for an HD STB and $5 for a normal cable box. And with the latter you should still be able to get the local broadcast in HD if you split the feed and have a QAM tuner


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RalphArch* /forum/post/17999093
> 
> 
> CV? Assuming it's cable or FIOS scrambling the locals would be illegal by the cable co. Not that they need to be analog, but they have to be clear. Down here I also get a lot of local govment and local service channels clear, as well as QVC and other channels that Verizon doesn't want to encrypt.
> 
> 
> And remember you can save every month if you get a cable card set like our 960's which gives you all your subscribe channels. For me Verizon charges $4 for a cable card, $10 for an HD STB and $5 for a normal cable box. And with the latter you should still be able to get the local broadcast in HD if you split the feed and have a QAM tuner



Hi Ralph,


Somehow Cablevision of New York did get a ruling that allows them to scramble all of their stations, including standard broadcast, but just for the New York City area. The majority of their unscrambled stations are either the broadcast networks, PBS, shopping and public access. Don't see what good it would be scrambling those except that it seems it opens more bandwidth (?) or something to that extent.


CV's cablecard goes for $2.00 and a box (HD is free) for additional outlets $5.00


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/17998874
> 
> 
> Depends on your needs.
> 
> 
> I don't have a DVD or BluRay player in that room, only 1080i/720p sources (HD-DVR and HD-DVHS) and 480i (SD-SVHS). So I don't really have any pressing concern about 1080p content.
> 
> 
> I simply bought that 32XBR9 because it was the right size, looked good and had a pretty good picture, sounded pretty decent with the set's speakers, was on sale and the price was about what I was willing to spend.
> 
> 
> Personally, I would not try to save some money and go with a 720p set. 1080i (i.e. 1080p, today, which is the new standard) is simply non-negotiable, even for 32" displays... at least for me. I think I can see the difference, and can't not noticing.
> 
> 
> Looks like the price on the XBR9 has come down another $100 since I bought mine.



Hi DS,


Been reading a lot about 32 inch screens and it seems just about all the technical people (CNet, Epionions, etc) say there is no real noticable difference between 720p and 1080p for a screen that size. Perphas you see a difference because you have the XBR9, which is not Sony's entry level set and is sure to surpass even the 1080p picture quality of it's Bravia line. Of course, neither compares to that of the 960!


Unfortunately, the Bravia's 720p unit didn't fair too well in what I've also read. So many noted certain colors appearing slightly green. From what I've read, the consensus is that the Samsung LN32B360 produces the best overall picture for a budget, entry level set. Love Sony but I might go with the sammy instead.


Thanks for the feedback. Will let you know what I finally decide to do.


Joe

Both those go for $399 and your XBR9 for $599.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

DS.


Purchased the Samsung LN32B360 for the den. Was also told by Crutchfield that for that size 1080p wouldn't make much of a difference, nor would an upconverting DVD player. Got my 960 through them - shows they don't push to make any extra sale.


Know it won't compare to the 960 but will let you know how it works out.


----------



## Caliko

OK!! So it's been years since I've purchased my XBR960. It's been great and amazing.


But lately I've been thinking.. "Hmmm, it's 2010, there has to be a better display out there by now, especially considering technological advancements since 2006."


So my question is:


Is there any displays under "40 that can match or surpass the all mighty XBR960 today?? If so, which one/s???


----------



## dilberttv

My brother moved his XBR CRT upstairs and got an XBR LCD. The screen is bigger, the PQ not as good IMO. I think his was the larger 36" and top of their line model from maybe 5 years ago. I never understood why he did it. I would'nt give up PQ for screen size. Then they had to come to his house and fix green/yellow patches on the screen (appartently a widespread issue from faulty manufacturing with those models of Sony LCD). That's the thing that scares me from buying a big screen- I keep reading about reliability issues, in fact the more I read on this forum, the more I want to keep my 24" Wega trinitron than give it up and be stuck with a Chinese made TV that might crap out in short order. I never had a Sony CRT that did'nt work well for less than 15 years. I did'nt even start seeing PQ comparable to CRT until maybe a couple years ago on some of the better plasmas, but it still was a little off. Maybe I'll go to BB in spring to look at Panasonics latest plasma screens this year and see if the funny green colors are still there.


----------



## Caliko




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dilberttv* /forum/post/18021378
> 
> 
> My brother moved his XBR CRT upstairs and got an XBR LCD. The screen is bigger, the PQ not as good IMO. I think his was the larger 36" and top of their line model from maybe 5 years ago. I never understood why he did it. I would'nt give up PQ for screen size. Then they had to come to his house and fix green/yellow patches on the screen (appartently a widespread issue from faulty manufacturing with those models of Sony LCD). That's the thing that scares me from buying a big screen- I keep reading about reliability issues, in fact the more I read on this forum, the more I want to keep my 24" Wega trinitron than give it up and be stuck with a Chinese made TV that might crap out in short order. I never had a Sony CRT that did'nt work well for less than 15 years. I did'nt even start seeing PQ comparable to CRT until maybe a couple years ago on some of the better plasmas, but it still was a little off. Maybe I'll go to BB in spring to look at Panasonics latest plasma screens this year and see if the funny green colors are still there.



Hmmm... I wonder if any of todays displays can surpass the XBR960's PQ??


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Caliko* /forum/post/18021032
> 
> 
> OK!! So it's been years since I've purchased my XBR960. It's been great and amazing.
> 
> 
> But lately I've been thinking.. "Hmmm, it's 2010, there has to be a better display out there by now, especially considering technological advancements since 2006."
> 
> 
> So my question is:
> 
> 
> Is there any displays under "40 that can match or surpass the all mighty XBR960 today?? If so, which one/s???



Doubtful since the 960 is still a CRT and that's the best in the business, however, will admit LCDs have come a long way. We just got a 32 inch Samsung 32B360 for our secondary HT system and will admit we're quite impressed with the picture despite it not being a reference model like the 960 and only 720p (it got better overall ratings than the entry level Sony equivalent).


Overall the picture is indeed sharp, colorful and vibrant with the main difference between the two is that the tiniest of minute details (i.e., a facial hair, etc) brought out on the 960 are more or less masked on the new set. The problem of LCD black level also seems to have been dramaticly reduced, however, the blacks are still not quite as deep as the 960 with a bit less detail within those deep blacks.


The CRT also still provides a more three-dimensional type feel to the picture but I was surprised at the depth of this one.


DVDs look much better, even when not upconverted, on the 960. While upconversion improves the picture on the Sony it is much more drasticly needed on the LCD - so much so that I had to go out and get one today for it.


These are not enough reasons for anyone not to get a mid sized LCD screen and be happy but it is reason enough not to replace the 960.


As far as larger sized LCDs, we have a 55 inch at the office and the picture appears way "flatter" in depth with less richer black detail. Another drawback I found with that 55 inch LCD is that even though it is full 1080p resolution the picture appears less crisper than the 32 inch Samung and especially with the 34 inch 960. So it's my guess that the larger the LCD screen the lesser the HD picture quality.


----------



## iforsevilla

I was ready to get a lcd or plasma in the 50 in range but as I was looking around I find lots of imperfections magnified by these tvs. Unless you feed it hd materials all else is ok at best. I dont have money for sets over 2k which I hear from folks swear to their excellent pix quality. But tv costing 3k up is just way too much for tv. My 34xbr960 servicing me for the past 5-6 years can't match the size of my bro-in-laws 47" lcd but my pix quality still beats his lcd. Now that I quit paying cox cable(fed up with their overpriced rerun programs--80% of it) I catch all of ota broadcast in vegas,(with signal strenght 75-95) I get hd for free--happy. I will eventually get a 50" screen eventually but maybe I will look around for a while.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *iforsevilla* /forum/post/18045061
> 
> 
> I was ready to get a lcd or plasma in the 50 in range but as I was looking around I find lots of imperfections magnified by these tvs. Unless you feed it hd materials all else is ok at best. I dont have money for sets over 2k which I hear from folks swear to their excellent pix quality. But tv costing 3k up is just way too much for tv. My 34xbr960 servicing me for the past 5-6 years can't match the size of my bro-in-laws 47" lcd but my pix quality still beats his lcd. Now that I quit paying cox cable(fed up with their overpriced rerun programs--80% of it) I catch all of ota broadcast in vegas,(with signal strenght 75-95) I get hd for free--happy. I will eventually get a 50" screen eventually but maybe I will look around for a while.



Good to know it wasn't my imagination and wishful thinking.


Picture quality is somewhat sacrificed in order to have a screen size 55 inches or higher. It seems screens that large require even more resolution than just 1080i/p can provide.


----------



## jdre

I agree, I think 60 inch may be the top size unless you are far away. My sister just got a 52XBR9 a very nice LCD. It's unflattering to all but HDTV signals. I'm going to spend some quality time with it and see if I can get it looking better. Can't sit too close with SD signals..


----------



## PJeff

So what's the going rate for a used 34xbr960?


----------



## unclepauly

Probably 3-400 usd. I'd gladly pay up to $700 for one in good condition. (not looking as I've already bought one last year







)


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PJeff* /forum/post/18078491
> 
> 
> So what's the going rate for a used 34xbr960?



It seems like $400 is the most common asking price from the craigslist ads I have seen. Most people who buy them usually say they paid closer to $300. A recently calibrated set could probably ask for and get something closer to $500.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Two weeks ago we got our first LCD (Samsung 32B360) to add to our den HT system. The 960 is in the system in the living room.


Now that I own a LCD (instead of seeing them in homes or stores) I've had a chance to see a properly tweaked set with time to observe the differences between one and the 960. My thoughts still remain the same - a mid-sized LCD picture is indeed slightly sharper (which I think has a lot to do with perfect geometry) but does mask a lot of little, minute details that the 960 brings out (facial hair, skin ipedements, stiching in clothes, etc.). And watching something live on the 960 one feels as if he or she is looking through a window with it's life-like clarity and 3-dimensional feel while on a LCD (despite it's vivid and colorful picture) it seems less-life like and more like something projected on a screen.


Also noticed that the 960 makes DVDs outputted in 480p appear much richer than it's den counterpart, making upconversion (or bluray) more essential for LCD. Have upconverting players for both TVs and the quality seems about even. Again, a minutely bit sharper on the LCD but less detailed than what one gets on the 960 (although due to it's flat screen and "non-window" effect the LCD feels more like being in a movie-theater).


Not to put down LCD. It's come a long, long way over the past few years (especially with black and contrast levels) and we're extremely happy and surprised with the quality of our Samsung - it has a great picture, extremely sharp with rich color and deep blacks. And if I was just starting out in HD, I wouldn't be disappointed in picture quality if I got a good model.


But the 960 is still reference-grade and has the advantages mentioned above so there is no need to think because it's older it should be replaced (despite the advances in LCD and LED technology) unless one just wants a much bigger size. In that case, one should also keep in mind what I've observed on the 55 inch LED in our conference room at work: the overall sharpness and detail isn't comparable to a smaller set, my own theory being (for what it's worth) that the larger the picture the more it's stretched out, requiring even higher resolution than 1080p to retain the same sharpness level as smaller sized screens.


----------



## azideam

Joseph,

Congrats on your recent purchase! I have to admit that I'm very curious as to why you didn't go with a plasma, as that technology is the closest thing to CRT image quality available today. If my 960 bites the dust, I wouldn't consider anything else (unless another mint 960 became available at the time).


Again, not trying to put down your Samsung, but could you tell us what kept you away from plasma?


~Matt


----------



## drvais




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LongRufus* /forum/post/18080712
> 
> 
> It seems like $400 is the most common asking price from the craigslist ads I have seen. Most people who buy them usually say they paid closer to $300. A recently calibrated set could probably ask for and get something closer to $500.



I actually paid $150 for one in great condition (although it oddly came with a 34XBR910 remote) last October just up in San Francisco.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *azideam* /forum/post/18104524
> 
> 
> Joseph,
> 
> Congrats on your recent purchase! I have to admit that I'm very curious as to why you didn't go with a plasma, as that technology is the closest thing to CRT image quality available today. If my 960 bites the dust, I wouldn't consider anything else (unless another mint 960 became available at the time).
> 
> 
> Again, not trying to put down your Samsung, but could you tell us what kept you away from plasma?
> 
> 
> ~Matt



Thanks Matt,


It was the burn-in issue. I would always be worried about something staying on the screen (though I understand in newer sets the pixils move a bit and by not remaining stationery reduces but doesn't eliminate the chance of it happening). Otherwise, I would have looked into a plasma since it does come closest to a CRT of the new technologies.


Didn't take it at all as putting down the Samsung - after all, it was I who raised the issue this time anway!







. And I was also afraid of offending those who owned a LCD by sounding like an elitist. There are excellent LCDs available (hopefully mine is one of them) but the 960 is still happens to be of the top HD monitors around and in a league all by itself.


Don't even want to think of my 960 biting the dust!


----------



## Caliko

WOW!!


2010 and still the king huh?


I was afraid my 960 was becoming outdated after all these years of technological advancements.


Great to hear it still has years in it.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Caliko* /forum/post/18108080
> 
> 
> WOW!!
> 
> 
> 2010 and still the king huh?
> 
> 
> I was afraid my 960 was becoming outdated after all these years of technological advancements.
> 
> 
> Great to hear it still has years in it.



Yeah, that was my fear too. It started about a year ago in my doctor's office. He has a LCD which is fed one of those special channels seen in waiting rooms. Was floored by how sharp and colorful the picture looked and thought that the 960 had finally been overtaken.


But it was deceptive. I tweaked the 960 to resemble the brightness level I had seen (my own settings were written down so wasn't worried about losing them) and found that the picture indeed became much sharper but in doing so it was then way too bright and lacked the vital contrast that brings out minute details and deep, rich color.


Perhaps LCDs, LEDs, etc. fair better against older HD CRTs by Toshiba, RCA (and even the less expensive Sony units) but I found it's just be unfair to compare any of them to the reference-level 960.


Now, I don't get jealous seeing the picture while waiting to be told I need to lose some weight.


----------



## unclepauly

Don't forget that LCD's brightness only has one advantage. That's daytime viewing, put that same LCD in your home and try to turn the lights down low and prepare to be *horrified.








*not by a scary movie.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/18113227
> 
> 
> Don't forget that LCD's brightness only has one advantage. That's daytime viewing, put that same LCD in your home and try to turn the lights down low and prepare to be *horrified.
> 
> 
> *not by a scary movie.



Adjusting the basic settings (contrast, brightness, etc.) utilizing HD test patterns of course results in that bright picture. A darker picture can be obtained by further adjusting it's gamma, backlight and dynamic range while still using the test patterns as reference. But unlike the 960, the darker settings did not enhance the picture or bring out any more detail; instead, picture became dull and lifeless, no matter what combination of advance settings was used.


So I guess in order for a LCD to provide the best quality it can, the picture has to remain brighter than usual, no matter the circumstances of the viewing environment. I have no complaints about the brighter picture - I actually enjoy it watching sporting events - but it's also easy to recognize it's shortcomings.


Again, not meant to put down LCD technology since obviously I am now an owner of one.







It's just to prove the point that it doesn't approach the quality of a CRT. Same holds true to one extent or another to plasma and DLP. And of course, other HD CRTs do not match the quality of the 960!


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Am a silent film fan and was shocked to read the following from a web page I follow:



"Sony Corporation (USA) has taken a surprising tack in resolving quality issues with their complete line of rear-projection HD televisions that were manufactured from 2002 through 2007. The main HD monitor that Silent Era utilizes in reviewing home video products, the Sony Grand WEGA SXRD KDS-60A2000 60" rear-projection HD television, developed a yellow hue on the right half of its picture late in 2009. When learning of an extended warranty program from Sony to resolve this issue, we arranged for a service call that resulted in the replacement of the optical block unit, from which a picture is projected onto the viewing screen. The monitor no longer exhibited a yellow hue but, instead, projected a prominent magenta oval encircling the picture. The service technician acknowledged the defect and arranged to have another optical block shipped from Sony. In late January, the replacement was installed only to exhibit the same magenta oval but to an admittedly fainter degree. When contacted regarding the persistent issue by the service company on our behalf, Sony closed the repair ticket and said that we would be contacted directly regarding the issue. When we spoke with the Sony customer service department on 3 February 2010, their representative would not directly acknowledge the defect but offered instead to sell us a Sony 55" LCD flatscreen for $1,100 as a replacement. Other resolutions of the issue were not allowed in the discussion by the Sony representative, in circular, policy-driven repetition, regardless of our original rejection of the smaller picture size and display technology when we purchased the rear-projection unit for its more filmlike picture. We were given until 17 February 2010 to accept Sony's offer to sell us a replacement television. We have since learned of wide-spread problems with Sony rear-projection televisions, allegedly known to the corporation while the units were being manufactured, that have resulted in three class-action suits against Sony one resolved, two currently pending. Our hope is that Silent Era readers will become aware of these issues and think twice about how the once-trusted Sony Corporation has chosen to resolve problems experienced by us and other previously dedicated Sony customers."


Hope a similar situation won't develop with the 960 since it was manufactured during that same period.


----------



## Slinky11

I would just like to say my 960 is still performing beautifully with CableCard and Xbox 360 inputs. Great value! CRTs are amazing


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/18120127
> 
> 
> ".....quality issues with their complete line of rear-projection HD televisions that were manufactured from 2002 through 2007. The main HD monitor that Silent Era utilizes in reviewing home video products, the Sony Grand WEGA™ SXRD™ KDS-60A2000 60" rear-projection HD television,.........Our hope is that Silent Era readers will become aware of these issues and think twice about how the once-trusted Sony Corporation has chosen to resolve problems experienced by us and other previously dedicated Sony customers."
> 
> 
> Hope a similar situation won't develop with the 960 since it was manufactured during that same period.



There shouldn't be any similarities between the products being discussed and the 960 since they are LCD sets with problematic light engines. I must say though, that Sony seems to have lost that top quality edge that they have been known for in the past. One used to feel confident in paying extra for the Sony name on a product. I no longer feel that way, *especially* after Sony's mishandling of the vertical scrolling bar issue that plagues the Sony crts.


That being said, it seems that almost every model of tv has its idiosyncratic issues. When I purchased a plasma, I went with Panasonic because of its advertised deep blacks, but lo and behold they have a rising black level issue that Panny may or may not resolve. Go figure.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Yeah,


Knew the technology was different but was concerned because if Sony let this happen on one product, the same could happen to another.


So it seems in terms of durability Sony has taken a step backwards the past few years? That is a shame.


----------



## Ennui

CRT sets have been around 50+ years...I think Sony knew how to make them.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ennui* /forum/post/18130736
> 
> 
> CRT sets have been around 50+ years...I think Sony knew how to make them.



Sony knows how to make all types of electronics and it's not a case of poor design as it is a lack of professional integrity once the defect was discovered. Allowing it to continue and remain unresolved put a blemish on it's reputation and raises doubt on how Sony will stand behind and take responsibility for their products, no matter what the type.


----------



## Ennui

My point was that the design was no challenge and we should be pleased that our 960's have no glaring errors like failed optical blocks, clouding, flashlighting, or burn-in.


----------



## unclepauly

Yeah I think the 960 is the only set I own that I feel is bulletproof. Except for a few problems I heard about the hdmi port, which was new at the time.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/18132530
> 
> 
> Yeah I think the 960 is the only set I own that I feel is bulletproof. Except for a few problems I heard about the hdmi port, which was new at the time.



A few of us have noticed parts of the external anti-glare coating starting to come off. Might be why Sony did away with this with the "N" model. For ours, fortunately, it's very small and in a corner area so it can't be seen except at a certain angle and at that point, it only appears as reflection off the screen.


----------



## MegaSam

I have a 34xbr960 in the house and it is displaying discoloration around the edges. Sometimes unplugging the TV fixes the issue but it comes back. Should I sell the TV because of this issue? Also how do I access the service menu in this TV to fix the geometry issues? Anyone want to make me an offer for the TV (like new condition just the discoloration problem)







?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MegaSam* /forum/post/18134904
> 
> 
> I have a 34xbr960 in the house and it is displaying discoloration around the edges. Sometimes unplugging the TV fixes the issue but it comes back. Should I sell the TV because of this issue? Also how do I access the service menu in this TV to fix the geometry issues? Anyone want to make me an offer for the TV (like new condition just the discoloration problem)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?



Don't sell your 960 so fast. That discoloration could be due to magnetism that the degausser hasn't completely gotten rid of via normal turning the power on or not keeping the set unplugged long enough.


Keep the 960 unplugged for at least ten minutes. Also, be sure it's plugged directy into the wall socket and not a surge protector (despite what it says in the manual, customer service told me protectors do not pass along the full power required for the degausser to work completely when turning the set on). Also check to see if your audio speakers are too close to the screen and might need to be move a bit further away.


There is an AVS forum called the Sony Service Codes with information on how to properly set the geometry. Make sure you have a cross-hatch pattern as a guide before doing anything along with one for overscan if possible.


Hope this helps. Please let us know.


Joe


----------



## opus123

I've been trolling the forums looking for a worthy successor to HD CRT, and am disappointed there doesn't seem to be a clear upgrade.


I don't have the 960, but rather the 34XBR800. Still an amazing set, but the sheer size and weight of the unit is starting to trouble me in my small apartment.


I too recently bought the Samsung 32B360, and was blown away by the PQ on an entry level 720p lcd. It replaced a fully functional 24" WEGA. FYI.. the set still had great PQ (albeit SD).


I was so impressed by the entry-level Samsung, I started wondering about replacing the 34XBR800. It's as good as it was new... but the promise of blu-ray, improved monitor tech, and smaller footprint is enticing.


After much investigation, it seems Plasma is the best successor... but sadly still not quite as good. LED is promising, but expensive and focused improperly (IMO) on thin form factor rather than full-array local dimming. Panasonic plasma felt like a good choice, but now seems to have uncertain longevity issues with black levels.. and then there's my DVD collection.


I'm all for blu-ray, but what about DVD playback? My CRT paired with a Denon 1600 produces an AWESOME progressive scan image. Without expensive upscalers, it seems only a $500 Oppo player can produce better PQ with DVD.


Are there any Plasma (or LCD) owners in this thread who feel their new set is a worthy replacement for the top CRT HD? (I'm thinking 46" or 50" max) I'd love to hear your thoughts and/or recommendations.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *opus123* /forum/post/18136961
> 
> 
> I've been trolling the forums looking for a worthy successor to HD CRT, and am disappointed there doesn't seem to be a clear upgrade.
> 
> 
> I don't have the 960, but rather the 34XBR800. Still an amazing set, but the sheer size and weight of the unit is starting to trouble me in my small apartment.
> 
> 
> I too recently bought the Samsung 32B360, and was blown away by the PQ on an entry level 720p lcd. It replaced a fully functional 24" WEGA. FYI.. the set still had great PQ (albeit SD).
> 
> 
> I was so impressed by the entry-level Samsung, I started wondering about replacing the 34XBR800. It's as good as it was new... but the promise of blu-ray, improved monitor tech, and smaller footprint is enticing.
> 
> 
> After much investigation, it seems Plasma is the best successor... but sadly still not quite as good. LED is promising, but expensive and focused improperly (IMO) on thin form factor rather than full-array local dimming. Panasonic plasma felt like a good choice, but now seems to have uncertain longevity issues with black levels.. and then there's my DVD collection.
> 
> 
> I'm all for blu-ray, but what about DVD playback? My CRT paired with a Denon 1600 produces an AWESOME progressive scan image. Without expensive upscalers, it seems only a $500 Oppo player can produce better PQ with DVD.
> 
> 
> Are there any Plasma (or LCD) owners in this thread who feel their new set is a worthy replacement for the top CRT HD? (I'm thinking 46" or 50" max) I'd love to hear your thoughts and/or recommendations.



Congrats on your new Samsung. Glad you are blown away with it's picture quality like I am.


Did you see my posts #6940, 6945 and 6947 regarding it's quality and comparision to the KD34XBR960? While I love the new Sammy, Sony's 960 is still reference level and not worth replacing and the same might hold true for the 800 as well.


If you want, contact me privately and we can go over user settings for HD and upconverted DVD. I have HD test patterns stored on my DVR from the old INHD which I was able to use as a reference.


----------



## opus123

Hi Joseph,


I did read your posts, and greatly appreciate your reviews/insights

- I believe the 960 is 2 model generations newer than my 800

- Comparable, but I'm sure the 960 has some added pq and hardware refinements (e.g. I only have component & 1 DVI port.. no hdmi)


Although I agree there's no need to replace for the sake of quality, I may have to part ways with the set for physical space in the next 3-5 months. Was hoping to find some positive reviews from those who lived with these great CRT's and found comparable replacements.


Since the Samsung is literally Entry-Level model (and performs so well), I thought it possible to find something suitable further up the model lines.


----------



## iforsevilla




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *opus123* /forum/post/18136961
> 
> 
> I've been trolling the forums looking for a worthy successor to HD CRT, and am disappointed there doesn't seem to be a clear upgrade.
> 
> 
> I don't have the 960, but rather the 34XBR800. Still an amazing set, but the sheer size and weight of the unit is starting to trouble me in my small apartment.
> 
> 
> I too recently bought the Samsung 32B360, and was blown away by the PQ on an entry level 720p lcd. It replaced a fully functional 24" WEGA. FYI.. the set still had great PQ (albeit SD).
> 
> 
> I was so impressed by the entry-level Samsung, I started wondering about replacing the 34XBR800. It's as good as it was new... but the promise of blu-ray, improved monitor tech, and smaller footprint is enticing.
> 
> 
> After much investigation, it seems Plasma is the best successor... but sadly still not quite as good. LED is promising, but expensive and focused improperly (IMO) on thin form factor rather than full-array local dimming. Panasonic plasma felt like a good choice, but now seems to have uncertain longevity issues with black levels.. and then there's my DVD collection.
> 
> 
> I'm all for blu-ray, but what about DVD playback? My CRT paired with a Denon 1600 produces an AWESOME progressive scan image. Without expensive upscalers, it seems only a $500 Oppo player can produce better PQ with DVD.
> 
> 
> Are there any Plasma (or LCD) owners in this thread who feel their new set is a worthy replacement for the top CRT HD? (I'm thinking 46" or 50" max) I'd love to hear your thoughts and/or recommendations.



This is the beauty of the 960, you can feed it any material available today and it will shine. Just wish it was close to the 50 inch screen that I am looking for.


----------



## Summit HDTV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MegaSam* /forum/post/18134904
> 
> 
> I have a 34xbr960 in the house and it is displaying discoloration around the edges. Sometimes unplugging the TV fixes the issue but it comes back. Should I sell the TV because of this issue? Also how do I access the service menu in this TV to fix the geometry issues? Anyone want to make me an offer for the TV (like new condition just the discoloration problem)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?



Greetings,


Your display is not defective, rather CRTs need a little TLC to bring out their best performance. No need to sell the set just for those reasons, if you are comfortable making some service level adjustments. If this is purple or magenta colored fringing then it's probably the landing settings. Basically the CRT is being influenced by the earth's magnetic field. Search for Sony and Landing to get more information. Look at post # 80 in this page http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&post5687363 . Make a log of any service menu changes for future reference. The _Sony Settings_ thread has information on convergence adjustment.


Regards


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *opus123* /forum/post/18137083
> 
> 
> Hi Joseph,
> 
> 
> I did read your posts, and greatly appreciate your reviews/insights
> 
> - I believe the 960 is 2 model generations newer than my 800
> 
> - Comparable, but I'm sure the 960 has some added pq and hardware refinements (e.g. I only have component & 1 DVI port.. no hdmi)
> 
> 
> Although I agree there's no need to replace for the sake of quality, I may have to part ways with the set for physical space in the next 3-5 months. Was hoping to find some positive reviews from those who lived with these great CRT's and found comparable replacements.
> 
> 
> Since the Samsung is literally Entry-Level model (and performs so well), I thought it possible to find something suitable further up the model lines.



My brother is set on getting a Samsung the next few months, if that helps. If this is entry-level quality, can imagine how good their top of the line ones are. But again, it's not CRT.


You might have read that the Sony equivalent entry level 32 inch set had problems with greenish-type tint on some flesh tones and other colors.


----------



## weloveiggy

Sorry to barge in on this thread, but I figured someone here would be able to help me make up my mind.


A friend has an KD-34XBR960 that he wants to sell for $100.

Works great, except if you turn it off when it's hot, it will need to be unplugged for a few hours before it turns back on.

Once it's on, it's fine. Until you shut it off again.


Is this a solder joint issue? Or something else?

Be specific, if possible. I'm good with a soldering iron, but not well versed in tv repair.


I just don't want to buy a tv that's going to die in a few more weeks.


Thanks for the help,

Don


----------



## mather

Don, here's my humble opinion (I don't own the 960, I have the 955), just from what you posted, I would pass. The 960 is an incredibly huge (40" x 2' x 2') and heavy set (200 lbs). If you are ok with that and someone here has an idea for a quick fix for the issue, don't pay your friend, he/she should be lucky if you want to take it off their hands.


----------



## Whatnow

Hello all, been a long time since I lurked here. I have an xbr960n I bought new. Still works perfectly! Best Picture I have ever had. I however want something a bit bigger. Is it time to start looking again or should I just hold tight for awhile longer? Any advice appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Whatnow* /forum/post/18192531
> 
> 
> Hello all, been a long time since I lurked here. I have an xbr960n I bought new. Still works perfectly! Best Picture I have ever had. I however want something a bit bigger. Is it time to start looking again or should I just hold tight for awhile longer? Any advice appreciated. Thanks!



See my post number 6940 - is a bit bigger picture worth the bigger drop in picture quality? LCDs are great and we have one in our second HT system, however, we would not replace our 960 to get a bigger one in the living room.


----------



## Ennui




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Whatnow* /forum/post/18192531
> 
> 
> Hello all, been a long time since I lurked here. I have an xbr960n I bought new. Still works perfectly! Best Picture I have ever had. I however want something a bit bigger. Is it time to start looking again or should I just hold tight for awhile longer? Any advice appreciated. Thanks!



I am very happy with my Sony 46XBR8 but they are not being made new anymore. Still have a 960 in the bedroom and can't see the difference in picture quality.


----------



## Paulus_Grandis

Hey all,


So, after some searching, I recently came to acquire the KD-34XBR960 because I wanted to see it for myself based on all the praise I've heard about it.


And when I first turned it on I was pretty disappointed, but after playing with the standard menu settings a lot, I came to see why this set has so much praise!


I'm very pleased with the picture quality now, except for a few things:


-Some Overscan Issues

-Some Inward Bowing on the Horizontal Extremes

-Some Slight Blur/Convergence Issues on the Horizontal Extremes (only really noticeable with fine text towards those edges)


Now then, I've found some pretty good guides here on adjusting the overscan, and that seems easy enough, so I'm good to go as soon as I get around to doing it.


As for the bowing, I'm not sure exactly what setting needs to be adjusted for this. I want to find the global setting that will adjust this as these problems seem to be the same over all inputs.


Just in case I'm not being clear:


This is sort of what the screen looks like now, everything kind of gets squished a little bit towards the middle as you get towards to horizontal edges. *EDIT:* OK, I found that this is called "Barrel Distortion", but it doesn't look like typical Barrel Distortion, I don't know, but still can't find the option to fix it...
Code:


Code:


. --------------------- .
 .                           .
|                             |
|                             |
|                             |
|                             |
 .                           .
   ' --------------------- '

Whereas this is what I want it to look like:
Code:


Code:


-----------------------------
|                             |
|                             |
|                             |
|                             |
|                             |
|                             |
 ----------------------------

I hope that makes sense, haha...


So I need to know what settings there are to correct that.


And finally, what would the settings be to adjust the blur/convergence towards the horizontal edges?


Thanks in advance for any info you can give!


-Paul


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Paulus_Grandis* /forum/post/18212413
> 
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> 
> So, after some searching, I recently came to acquire the KD-34XBR960 because I wanted to see it for myself based on all the praise I've heard about it.
> 
> 
> And when I first turned it on I was pretty disappointed, but after playing with the standard menu settings a lot, I came to see why this set has so much praise!
> 
> 
> I'm very pleased with the picture quality now, except for a few things:
> 
> 
> -Some Overscan Issues
> 
> -Some Inward Bowing on the Horizontal Extremes
> 
> -Some Slight Blur/Convergence Issues on the Horizontal Extremes (only really noticeable with fine text towards those edges)
> 
> 
> Now then, I've found some pretty good guides here on adjusting the overscan, and that seems easy enough, so I'm good to go as soon as I get around to doing it.
> 
> 
> As for the bowing, I'm not sure exactly what setting needs to be adjusted for this. I want to find the global setting that will adjust this as these problems seem to be the same over all inputs.
> 
> 
> Just in case I'm not being clear:
> 
> 
> This is sort of what the screen looks like now, everything kind of gets squished a little bit towards the middle as you get towards to horizontal edges. *EDIT:* OK, I found that this is called "Barrel Distortion", but it doesn't look like typical Barrel Distortion, I don't know, but still can't find the option to fix it...
> Code:
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> . --------------------- .
> .                           .
> |                             |
> |                             |
> |                             |
> |                             |
> .                           .
> ' --------------------- '
> 
> Whereas this is what I want it to look like:
> Code:
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> -----------------------------
> |                             |
> |                             |
> |                             |
> |                             |
> |                             |
> |                             |
> ----------------------------
> 
> I hope that makes sense, haha...
> 
> 
> So I need to know what settings there are to correct that.
> 
> 
> And finally, what would the settings be to adjust the blur/convergence towards the horizontal edges?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for any info you can give!
> 
> 
> -Paul



Do a search for the Ken Tech thread, an excellent reference for this set. For the bowing you may have to adjust magnets.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Paulus_Grandis* /forum/post/18212413
> 
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> 
> So, after some searching, I recently came to acquire the KD-34XBR960 because I wanted to see it for myself based on all the praise I've heard about it.
> 
> 
> And when I first turned it on I was pretty disappointed, but after playing with the standard menu settings a lot, I came to see why this set has so much praise!
> 
> 
> I'm very pleased with the picture quality now, except for a few things:
> 
> 
> -Some Overscan Issues
> 
> -Some Inward Bowing on the Horizontal Extremes
> 
> -Some Slight Blur/Convergence Issues on the Horizontal Extremes (only really noticeable with fine text towards those edges)
> 
> 
> Now then, I've found some pretty good guides here on adjusting the overscan, and that seems easy enough, so I'm good to go as soon as I get around to doing it.
> 
> 
> As for the bowing, I'm not sure exactly what setting needs to be adjusted for this. I want to find the global setting that will adjust this as these problems seem to be the same over all inputs.
> 
> 
> Just in case I'm not being clear:
> 
> 
> This is sort of what the screen looks like now, everything kind of gets squished a little bit towards the middle as you get towards to horizontal edges. *EDIT:* OK, I found that this is called "Barrel Distortion", but it doesn't look like typical Barrel Distortion, I don't know, but still can't find the option to fix it...
> Code:
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> . --------------------- .
> .                           .
> |                             |
> |                             |
> |                             |
> |                             |
> .                           .
> ' --------------------- '
> 
> Whereas this is what I want it to look like:
> Code:
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> -----------------------------
> |                             |
> |                             |
> |                             |
> |                             |
> |                             |
> |                             |
> ----------------------------
> 
> I hope that makes sense, haha...
> 
> 
> So I need to know what settings there are to correct that.
> 
> 
> And finally, what would the settings be to adjust the blur/convergence towards the horizontal edges?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for any info you can give!
> 
> 
> -Paul



Hi Paul,


Congratulations on the 960.


When I first adjusted the overscan I wound up having the same problem.


If you go to the SONY SERVICE CODES forum, instructions regarding geometry adjustment appears in post number 33. Go through the entire procedure. Also suggest upon completion you further adjust the corners by going into service item 2710D-2, number 7 (UCP) and 8 (LCP). Cannot give you any advice regarding the magnets.


A complete spreadsheet of Sony suggested factory pre-sets plus Ken Tech's own settings is attached to post number 35. I actually found that a large number of my factory pre-sets were way off and really diminished picture quality - in all cases, re-adjusting them based on the Sony recommended factory settings improved the picture tremendously. At that point, of course, further callibration was still required so I went through the entire list, comparing items which differed between Sony and those in Ken's spreadsheet (most of Ken's suggestions we're better) while finding some needed values different from either Sony or Ken (obviously because no two sets are alike).


Be sure to write down the settings you have before making any adjustments.


Hope this helps.


Good luck and let us know how it works out.


Joe


----------



## Paulus_Grandis

Thanks for the tips.


I've got it looking pretty good now, but there are a few minor things I'd still like to perfect towards the corners.


Are there UCP, LCP like options for the horizontal edges of the screen?


Where is a good place to find information about magnet adjustments? (I hope it won't come to that)


Thanks in advance.


----------



## Rockininrio

My xbr960 has been on the fritz for a little while now. The hdmi port doesn't work and the tuner is fuzzy unless you jiggle the chord. Any ideas on what could be wrong with it and how much it would cost to repair?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Paulus_Grandis* /forum/post/18254650
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tips.
> 
> 
> I've got it looking pretty good now, but there are a few minor things I'd still like to perfect towards the corners.
> 
> 
> Are there UCP, LCP like options for the horizontal edges of the screen?
> 
> 
> Where is a good place to find information about magnet adjustments? (I hope it won't come to that)
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.



Paul,


Group 2170D-2, items 7 through 13 deal with the corner geometry.


Can't help you with the magnet part but glad I was able to help you a bit otherwise..


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rockininrio* /forum/post/18257141
> 
> 
> My xbr960 has been on the fritz for a little while now. The hdmi port doesn't work and the tuner is fuzzy unless you jiggle the chord. Any ideas on what could be wrong with it and how much it would cost to repair?



Sorry to hear you're having problems. What cord do you "jiggle"? (POWER cord? Antenna?)


Mark


----------



## Paulus_Grandis

Alright, I've got the edge focus pretty good and I've got the edges looking pretty much perfect, with one slight exception...


In the bottom right part of the screen only, the horizontal lines curve upwards slightly as they approach that corner from left to right...Any ideas on how to fix that?


Thanks again!


----------



## Summit HDTV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Paulus_Grandis* /forum/post/18265726
> 
> 
> Alright, I've got the edge focus pretty good and I've got the edges looking pretty much perfect, with one slight exception...
> 
> 
> In the bottom right part of the screen only, the horizontal lines curve upwards slightly as they approach that corner from left to right...Any ideas on how to fix that?
> 
> 
> Thanks again!



Greetings,


Ours does that too. You need to adjust the magnets for that.


Regards


----------



## Rockininrio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BTV Mark* /forum/post/18263689
> 
> 
> Sorry to hear you're having problems. What cord do you "jiggle"? (POWER cord? Antenna?)
> 
> 
> Mark



The time warner coax going from my wall to my tv.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rockininrio* /forum/post/18271575
> 
> 
> The time warner coax going from my wall to my tv.



You should not need to jiggle any cables to make the signal work. Check the connector on each side to make sure they're tight. (If a twist type, securely hand tighten, and if a push-on, you might want to take a pliers and g-e-n-t-l-y push down on the shield to make it fit tighter on the socket.)


If the problem is still there, the fault could be in the TV or in Time-Warner's system. Try moving the cable to a different TV if you have one. If it works on that other TV, then the problem is indeed in your XBR-960. If it still doesn't work, breath a sigh of relief because you've ducked a repair cost and call Time-Warner to have them fix it.


Good luck!


Mark


----------



## Joseph Dubin

I have a Panasonic EA18 recorder in my living room connected to the 960 along with a Sony NS710H player connected to a Samsung 32B360 (LCD) for our second HTS. Both players use HDMI and, of course, have up-conversion.


With the 960, my recorded DVD-Rs look way much better up-converted from 480p, however, on the Samsung they actually appear worse (overall picture way too harsh and unpleasing with movement appearing un-natural). On that set, retaining the output at 480p brings out the best in the picture. Please note that the Samsung does do a fine job up-converting commercial DVDs; it is only with those I've recorded that it doesn't.


I know the 960 is a reference set and the Samsung is entry level but am curious as to why, on the Samsung, the same principles of up-conversion that apply to commercial DVDs to not apply to DVD-Rs (with and without any enhancement settings from the player). Is this the norm for many HD sets, making the 960 more the exception rather than the rule? If so, then it's another tribute to the 960's great ability at bringing out the best of any source material


Am not at all worried or upset - it just means changing the DVD player's output. So I honestly do not think it's a knock on the LCD but more an attribute of the 960.


Thanks as always,

Joe


P.S.


The recordings I make are of excellent quality. They are dubbed from HD stations with good source material using s-video cable. Of course, the output is down-converted to 480i but at high speed it yields results far superior to standard definition broadcasts or VHS (though I realize no DVD recorder is able to reproduce picture quality on the same level of a disc made commercially).


----------



## t-dub77

I have the 34" xbr910 which i believe is the model just prior to the 960. biggest difference is DVI not HDMI and no HD tuner on board. I have the stand the service manual, the regular manual and remote. Basically everything is as new minus the box. I did a ISF on everything I could do to the DVI input without opening the box and it works great. I don't want to just trash/recycle this thing. Does anyone want it? I would like to get a bit of money for it but I am entertaining free to a good home idea. Send me an email at: [email protected] . I will consider what to do based on the response. thanks...


----------



## unclepauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *t-dub77* /forum/post/18281251
> 
> 
> I have the 34" xbr910 which i believe is the model just prior to the 960. biggest difference is DVI not HDMI and no HD tuner on board. I have the stand the service manual, the regular manual and remote. Basically everything is as new minus the box. I did a ISF on everything I could do to the DVI input without opening the box and it works great. I don't want to just trash/recycle this thing. Does anyone want it? I would like to get a bit of money for it but I am entertaining free to a good home idea. Send me an email at: [email protected] . I will consider what to do based on the response. thanks...



I'd say the biggest difference is the lines of resolution. Not trying to be a jerk


----------



## hemogoblin

Hey guys, im looking for a tube strictly for old gaming (PS2, PS1, Sega Saturn,Super Nintendo) and have a chance to get a KD-34XBR960 for a good price. I was planning on going the RGB route, but if the KD-34XBR960 is as good as everyone says, maybe I can just do that with S-Video.


Or since it upscales everything, will the old video game systems suffer from HD blur and pixelation?


----------



## Q of BanditZ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hemogoblin* /forum/post/18321939
> 
> 
> Hey guys, im looking for a tube strictly for old gaming (PS2, PS1, Sega Saturn,Super Nintendo) and have a chance to get a KD-34XBR960 for a good price. I was planning on going the RGB route, but if the KD-34XBR960 is as good as everyone says, maybe I can just do that with S-Video.
> 
> 
> Or since it upscales everything, will the old video game systems suffer from HD blur and pixelation?



Long/short: ALL of your source material will look as good as it possibly ever could. Proceed with confidence.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Q of BanditZ* /forum/post/18322250
> 
> 
> Long/short: ALL of your source material will look as good as it possibly ever could. Proceed with confidence.



Agree - even my old VHS recordings from 25 years ago look better than ever!


----------



## georgegreer

I just got a Blu-Ray player, and can't find a way to play only the front channels of 5.1 through the 960's speakers. I can tell the player to send no sound over HDMI and only through it's RCA audio outputs, but when I plug audio input into the RCA plugs just below the HDMI input in the Video 7 area on the back of the TV, no sound comes out. Sound does come out with Video 5 and other input areas, though.


Is the TV broken and need repair, or is this just the way it is?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *georgegreer* /forum/post/18338492
> 
> 
> I just got a Blu-Ray player, and can't find a way to play only the front channels of 5.1 through the 960's speakers. I can tell the player to send no sound over HDMI and only through it's RCA audio outputs, but when I plug audio input into the RCA plugs just below the HDMI input in the Video 7 area on the back of the TV, no sound comes out. Sound does come out with Video 5 and other input areas, though.



Why would you want the audio to be delivered over analog L/R RCA audio instead of wanting to play the digital PCM 2-channel stereo delivered over HDMI from your BluRay player to the 960? That's the right way to do it.


Anyway, I think the L/R audio inputs under the HDMI connector for INPUT7 are intended for a source device that only has a DVI output, which is digital video only (you'd use a DVI-to-HDMI converter cable to connect to HDMI on INPUT7 of the 960). The L/R audio input is then necessary to provide the 2-channel stereo audio since no digital audio can possibly be delivered through the DVI-to-HDMI cable coming from the DVI-only source device. I'm guessing the 960 senses the absence of audio on the HDMI input and falls back to the L/R analog inputs for its audio source on INPUT7.


But from a real HDMI-capable source device, where there actually is an audio program being delivered via HDMI, I would guess that the 960 senses that and deactivates the L/R analog input. Since the 960 has no Menu control to designate where the audio is coming from on INPUT7 I'm going to guess it auto-determines it to be on HDMI when there actually is digital audio coming across the HDMI cable, and the 960 simply does not use the L/R analog input in this case.


So even if you provide L/R analog audio from the BluRay player to these input connectors for INPUT7 they will be ignored if there is digital audio coming in through HDMI. That's just my guess.


I have no problem playing from my BluRay player to my 960 and getting sound... using nothing more than an HDMI cable. This is all that is required, with the 2-channel PCM stereo digital audio program also contained on the BluRay disc being what gets automatically picked off by the 960 and delivered to its speakers. It is NOT the L/R channels of the 5.1 program you're hearing. It is the true alternate 2-channel PCM stereo program (which actually is a mix of all 5.1 channels, created by the studio... not by the BluRay player).



Anyway, you WANT the 2-channel PCM stereo digital audio from your BluRay player fed to the 960 via that HDMI cable. You do NOT want to use the 2-channel analog audio (as produced from D-to-A by your BluRay player)... even if you could provide it from BluRay to the 960.


Again, the 960 will automatically select the imbedded 2-channel PCM stereo program being delivered over HDMI, and play it through its speakers. Or, you may need to pick the 2-channel PCM stereo audio program on the disc's Main Menu.


But one way or the other, you WANT to use HDMI to deliver 2-channel PCM stereo digital audio from BluRay to 960. You do not want to use the analog L/R inputs, even if that worked.


----------



## georgegreer




> Quote:
> But from a real HDMI-capable source device, where there actually is an audio program being delivered via HDMI, I would guess that the 960 senses that and deactivates the L/R analog input. Since the 960 has no Menu control to designate where the audio is coming from on INPUT7 I'm going to guess it auto-determines it to be on HDMI when there actually is digital audio coming across the HDMI cable, and the 960 simply does not use the L/R analog input in this case.



This makes sense to me, and thanks for the answer. But this may not be the case with my TV because even when I tell the player to turn off all sound through HDMI, the TV still will play no sound source through the L/R analog input of Video 7.


But maybe the TV is sensing that HDMI sound is connected, i.e. has some electrical current, and is just turned all the way down, and so shuts off all input through the L/R analog of Video 7 as you suggest. I think that must be the case, because those input plugs have never even been touched before, so very unlikely that both of them are broken.


I suppose I could do some fancy cabling, HDMI to DVI to HDMI and see what happens, but not worth buying more cable/adapters.



> Quote:
> Why would you want the audio to be delivered over analog L/R RCA audio instead of wanting to play the digital PCM 2-channel stereo delivered over HDMI from your BluRay player to the 960?



Because I have two rear speakers powered through a stereo amplifier that gives me surround sound, without a center or subwoofer. There is no way to prevent the rear/surround sound tracks from playing through the TV's speakers with the HDMI connection as the Oppo Blu-Ray player has no option to send just the front channels through the HDMI cable.


The player does have an option to stop ALL sound from coming through the HDMI cable. But then there is no other pathway to get the front channel sound into the TV's speakers, because the Video 7 L/R audio inputs are blocked or broken.



> Quote:
> Anyway, you WANT the 2-channel PCM stereo digital audio from your BluRay player fed to the 960 via that HDMI cable. You do NOT want to use the 2-channel analog audio (as produced from D-to-A by your BluRay player)... even if you could provide it from BluRay to the 960.



Is there something better about the sound coming from HDMI vs RCA/analog?


Separate rear sound does comes through the Blu-Ray player's analog surround output RCA jacks, but the rear soundtracks are still coming out of the front speakers, too, as part of the HDMI stereo tracks the TV is using.


Therefore, I've decided it's best to forego HDMI whenever I want surround sound, and just use the Video 5 component video input with analog sound, otherwise I'd have to buy a 5.1 receiver and two speakers for the front channels.


Also, I could not see a significant difference in video quality with HDMI vs component video input on a short video test sequence of nature and city shots. And finally, I'm not using high-end amplifier and rear speakers, and aesthetically don't need that for movie sound.


I plan to post a separate message about the HDMI vs component with the Oppo player, and how the Anchor Bay video processing on their 83 model made no perceptible difference to me, so I am using their model 80.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *georgegreer* /forum/post/18345831
> 
> 
> Separate rear sound does comes through the Blu-Ray player's analog surround output RCA jacks, but the rear soundtracks are still coming out of the front speakers, too, as part of the HDMI stereo tracks the TV is using.
> 
> 
> Therefore, I've decided it's best to forego HDMI whenever I want surround sound, and just use the Video 5 component video input with analog sound



If you're sending the LS/RS channels from the BluRay player to your external amplifier for rear speakers, and the LF/RF channels to the 960's analog audio inputs on INPUT5 (along with component video output from the BluRay player to INPUT5 on the 960), then in my opinion you are losing the C channel... which is a crucial loss in multi-channel sound. You're also losing any SW audio.


Forgetting about the marginal difference (if any) of HDMI video to the 960 vs. component video to the 960, my point is that if you are feeding any combination of the discrete analog audio outputs from the BluRay player's decoding of the multi-channel audio source program (d.g. DD5.1) to what appears to be discrete amp/speaker outputs and you don't feed the C channel somewhere, then you're not hearing the C channel. LF and RF discrete channels do not have C channel mixed in. You're simply losing C channel audio.


In contrast, the 2-channel PCM stereo program (which is certainly not the DD5.1 sound, but is actually a studio-produced 2-channel mixdown of all of the audio channels discretely contained in the DD5.1 alternative) contains all the sound from all the channels. Typically the discrete C channel audio is fed to both L and R channels of the 2-channel stereo program (along with mixing in the rear surround channels). I honestly don't know where the SW channel audio might get handled, but I suspect it's mixed in as well... again, probably to both L and R channels.


Bottom line: if you're trying to have a hybrid multi-channel system without really having one, by having your own amp/speakers for just the LS and RS channels out of your BluRay player, I don't see how you are going to get the overall multi-channel audio you really want by trying to use the two speakers in the 960 to handle the THREE remaining audio channels (LF, RF, and C)... not even counting SW which is going nowhere. If you feed the 2-channel PCM stereo to the 960 then you get all channels (including what you're also sending to your LS/RS via your external amplifier for those). If you feed just the LF/RF channels from the BluRay player to the 960 then you're losing C and SW audio.


Why not just get an inexpensive receiver that supports multi-channel audio decoding, and a few more speakers to finish what you really need for true 5.1 sound at modest cost, do NOT use the 2 very ordinary speakers in the 960 to listen through (i.e. set them to "OFF" in the audio setup), and listen to the true DD5.1 audio program as it was meant to be heard. Forget trying to get what at best is a compromise in audio quality anyway.


The 2-channel audio available from the 960 is very very mediocre, no matter what you feed it. Sure... it's "acceptable" if you don't really care. But if you want to enjoy multi-channel audio you need decoding and multi-channel amplification and corresponding speakers. Connect the HDMI output from your BluRay player to the HDMI input of your [new] AVR (which probably contains its own amplifiers for all channels), use your existing two rear speakers plus the new ones you buy for LF, RF, C and SW, turn off the 960's audio, connect AVR to 960 via HDMI (for video only, as it turns out), and you've got what you really want.


In passing I mention that I have turned off my 960's speakers and instead use a spare set of Altec-Lansing 621 computer audio speakers (two excellent satellites plus sub-woofer, with cross-over in the system's amp electronics contained in the sub-woofer unit). I feed the 2-channel stereo audio program out of my Yamaha receiver to these external speakers when I'm only interested in "listening to TV" casually... even if there was multi-channel audio available. I find that these full-range magnetically shielded Altec-Lansing speakers+SW to provide much superior sound to the speakers built into the 960.


In contrast, I use my full multi-channel audio system (also via the Yamaha) when I'm truly "watching/listening" to some program source (HDTV or BluRay or DVHS) which provides DD5.1.


----------



## georgegreer




> Quote:
> If you're sending the LS/RS channels from the BluRay player to your external amplifier for rear speakers, and the LF/RF channels to the 960's analog audio inputs on INPUT5 (along with component video output from the BluRay player to INPUT5 on the 960), then in my opinion you are losing the C channel... which is a crucial loss in multi-channel sound. You're also losing any SW audio.



The Blu-Ray player has a speaker setup menu for analog output that routes the information from any missing speakers through the remaining speakers. So I tell the player there is no center channel, and the center soundtrack is mixed into the L & R front channels. I tell it there is no subwoofer, and that track is mixed into the tracks for speakers I designate as "large" as opposed to "small." This speaker setup menu on the Oppo player is virtually identical to the speaker setup on the 10-year old Sony DVD player I replaced.



> Quote:
> But if you want to enjoy multi-channel audio you need decoding and multi-channel amplification and corresponding speakers.



Yes, I'm sure it would sound a lot better if I did this, but the sound quality in movies is just not worth that expense to me. Instead, I put my money into my stereo system in another room.


Thanks for all this thorough analysis.


----------



## georgegreer

I recently purchased an Oppo Blu-Ray player as they are consistently rated excellent, and better than similarly priced Sony player. The BDP-83 is $500 and has Anchor Bay video processing, whereas the BDP-80 costs $290 and is virtually the same, but without the Anchor Bay processing. They both play SACD, too: http://www.oppodigital.com/blu-ray-b...0-Compare.aspx 


The BDP-83 has a "Demo" mode option in the HDMI submenu of the video setup menu, and it displays the Anchor Bay processed video on the left side of the TV screen, and non-Anchor Bay video on the right. A Blu-Ray calibration disc is also included with the 83 (but not the 80), with some nature and city scenes. I watched it a couple of times, and was not able to perceive a bit of difference between the two parts of the screen.


Oppo sells these online, but I found a local dealer, who recommended them as the best in this price range, and he let me return the 83 and get the 80.


Also, the dealer didn't know about the Demo mode, so we did that with their $65,000 video projector on about a 10 foot screen in a separate viewing room. (The Oppo 83 was already setup as the player they used for demonstrating that system, the best in the store.) For a while, the dealer couldn't tell the difference even on that system, but then said he saw some more detail in a closeup of an actor's face on the Anchor Bay-processed side. (I didn't have my glasses on, so it all looked the same to me.)


So I'm very happy with the BDP-80. Also, see discussion immediately above this about surround speaker setup options and HDMI vs component connections with the TV.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *georgegreer* /forum/post/18350279
> 
> 
> So I'm very happy with the BDP-80. Also, see discussion immediately above this about surround speaker setup options and HDMI vs component connections with the TV.



I see.


Actually, I myself own the Oppo BDP-83. I don't actually watch many DVD/BD movies but I did want to get a modern and high-quality universal player to replace my long-owned Sony DVP9000ES CD/DVD player vintage 1995. This is one source device connected to my Yamaha RX-V863 receiver via HDMI, along with my Moto DCH3416 HD-DVR and JVC DT100U DVHS VCR both of which are also connected to the Yamaha via HDMI. In turn, the Yamaha is connected to my 960 (built-in speakers set to "OFF") via HDMI. All HDMI. For my "casual" 2-channel stereo listening from any source I use the aforementioned Altec-Lansing 621 "stereo" speaker system (2 satellites plus sub-woofer) which genuinely sounds terrific. I actually have its big-brother Altec-Lansing 641 "quadrophonic" speaker system (4 satellites plus larger sub-woofer plus twice the power wattage as with the 621) on one of my computers. Again, sounds terrific.


But I, too, have a non-standard audio situation for multi-channel audio in my HDTV setup, as I am unable to have a true multi-channel loudspeaker setup in my condo. This would simply be unacceptable for the people living below me, should I choose to play things at the audio volumes I'd often like to.


My solution to that one, for several years, was originally to use a Pioneer DIR-SE1000 Dolby Headphone processor. Optical digital audio input, analog L/R-stereo headphone (transmitting wirelessly to provided wireless headphones, and also provided "wired" through a built-in amplifier and headphone-output jack). I sent the wired headphone output to my DBX 14/10 EQ for "tone control", then on to my Stax SRM-T1S headphone amp and Stax Omega-1 headphones. This setup served me well, and it was as best as I could hope for absent a true loudspeaker system.


Last April, after waiting more than five years for a "virtual surround headphone-based" product I'd first read about back in 2004, I finally was able to buy the very first (serial number #0001) " Smyth Virtual Surround Realiser A8 " that finally had reached production and "for sale" status.


This radical new device provides multi-channel processing against up to 8 discrete analog multi-channel source inputs (decoded "upstream", by the source... say the Yamaha receiver or BluRay player, as long as there are discrete "preamp-out" analog outputs for each discrete channel). The output is again 2-channel analog L/R-stereo to be fed to headphones, but the illusion (or should I say "spatial accuracy") of virtual surround sensation to your ears and brain is simply astonishing. The output is "un-amplified" (i.e. line-level) and you MUST feed it to a high-quality headphone amp (the Realiser system includes a Stax 2050II system of amp and headphones) for listening.


The Realiser is not a Dolby Headphone mechanism. It is a radical digital processor (but currently sourced using up to 8 pre-decoded discrete analog channels as RCA input) designed by the man who developed the DTS codec, and represents probably 10 years of work. Its use is completely "owner-specific", and you go through a "calibration" process (using microphones placed inside of each ear) to capture the "sonic signature" of a particular listening room environment you have access to... as what is referred to as a PRIR file.


You also perform a separate and unrelated second "calibration" process (again involving the microphones placed inside your ears) to capture the "reproductive capability" of your headphones... as what is referred to as an HPEQ file.


Results of essentially an unlimited number of these "measurements" are stored either on (a) a removable flash card, or (b) in the memory of the Realiser which can hold up to 64 PRIR and 64 HPEQ files. Subsequently, any combination of PRIR (room sound as heard by your ears) and HPEQ (headphone sound as heard by your ears) can be put together and conveniently stored into one of the four available "presets" conveniently selectable using the remote.


The result at playback time (i.e. of sending discrete multi-channel source to the Realiser and then out to your headphones) is to truly and accurately duplicate (as genuinely indistinguishable) the sound of that listening environment which got measured and stored in the PRIR file and played back using the headphones represented by the matching HPEQ file... as your own ears and brain hear sound (which is different from how everybody else's ears and brains hear sound, hence the "personalization" nature of this whole concept).


I feed the 8 discrete pre-amp analog outputs from my Yamaha receiver (containing discrete decoded channels from any source) to the 8 discrete analog inputs of the Realiser. As before, the 2-channel L/R-analog headphone output of the Realiser goes to my DBX 14/10 EQ and then on to my Stax SRM-T1S/Omega-1 for listening.


The spatial cues of directionality of the original multi-channel loudspeakers (e.g. either 5.1 or 7.1 setups), along with the tonal and quality aspects of that whole "measured as heard by the microphones in your ears" listening environment (per the PRIR file) that include speakers, walls, carpets, wall and ceiling coverings and baffles, audio electronics, etc., well it's simply amazing. It's truly like being in that room again, and listening to the current source material and hearing it through the headphones you're currently using (per the corresponding HPEQ file) and believing that you are actually in that room with its true multi-channel loudspeakers and listening without headphones.


Anyway, the Realiser is my own personal solution to listening and enjoying multi-channel source material through headphones. However it has an obvious remarkable advantage over having your own multi-channel loudspeaker system in your own listening room: the ability to "capture the sound" of any number of other listening environments (as stored in the PRIR file that gets captured from those measurements... taken in those other listening environments which you might have/buy access to so that you can perform a "calibration" there) allows you to then play back source material and hear things "virtually exactly" as if you were in that listening environment listening to that same source material.


In other words, your own personal bedroom multi-channel sound system might be very mediocre. But if you could arrange for a "calibration" in the high-end mixing room of a high-end audio company, with fantastic equipment and sound-contributing electronic and physical aspects worth hundreds of thousands of dollars that you could obviously never afford yourself... well eventually listening to an HDTV program or BluRay movie through the PRIR file corresponding to that studio's equipment instead of through your own mediocre bedroom sound system, that's truly a breakthrough. And that's how it works.


Through Smyth, I was lucky enough to arrange for a "calibration" at several studios and listening venues (including the remarkable Egyptian theater in Hollywood) here in LA. So I have a "library" of those listening environments, each represented by a PRIR file that captured how my own ears heard sound in each of those listening environments. And thus I can choose to play source material back through any of those PRIR files, pretty much duplicating that listening environment.


As it turns out, I have settled on just one of my "available listening environments, represented by PRIR files"... this one captured at the AIX Records mixing room, where they produce their high-definition audio products. This room truly sounded amazing, and I have simply taken to using it as my one-and-only "private multi-channel AIX-studio loudspeaker system", as heard through my DBX/Stax equipment.


This would simply have been impossible without the Realiser, and I could never actually have or afford the electronic equipment and speakers and sound-room environment that exists at AIX. So listening through headphones and believing I'm at AIX, rather than listening to any true "mediocre" loudspeaker system I might have put in my own bedroom or listening room and simply living with its "adequacy"... well what can I say?


Look into it. It's amazing.


----------



## Bitwize

Well, I've come full circle. Just re-purchased the XBR960 that I sold 2 years ago...LOL. My buddy Chad B is going to perform a touch-up calibration in the near future. It might be more than a touch-up though







I tried a sub-$1,000 flat panel (Panasonic, Samsung, Sony) and I just wasn't happy, so I went back to CRT. For the past 2 years I've had a 60" Kuro and it was very nice. My wife and I hope to move at some point, so we've been streamlining...selling the big stuff. I will not be taking the 960 with me when I move, but it will be a nice hold-me-over-until-I-get-a-new-house-and-projector HDTV. I wonder if "nice" CRT projectors will be a lot more affordable in a couple of years?


----------



## hemogoblin

Well in my quest for an awesome CRT TV for my old gaming needs (PS1, Sega Saturn) I was brought to the 960 as being the best CRT ever. I scratched it off my list when I realized my PS2 light guns wont work on any HD CRT's.


Today I stopped into a local Salvation Army to try and find an old Commodore RGB monitor, and a 960 was sitting there. Tested it out, and now its home and my PS1 games so far look great via S-Video, PS2 via component looks pretty awesome as well. Im going to plug in my PS3 and 360 just to check out some real HD on this thing. But I just wanted to share my excitement.


Price was $76.50 out the door.


----------



## Summit HDTV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hemogoblin* /forum/post/18365763
> 
> 
> Today I stopped into a local Salvation Army to try and find an old Commodore RGB monitor, and a 960 was sitting there. Tested it out, and now its home and my PS1 games so far look great via S-Video, PS2 via component looks pretty awesome as well. Im going to plug in my PS3 and 360 just to check out some real HD on this thing. But I just wanted to share my excitement.
> 
> 
> Price was $76.50 out the door.



Wow!


Joe


----------



## ehgz1

I love Salvation Army and Goodwill...you can find THE most amazing deals there


----------



## unclepauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hemogoblin* /forum/post/18365763
> 
> 
> Well in my quest for an awesome CRT TV for my old gaming needs (PS1, Sega Saturn) I was brought to the 960 as being the best CRT ever. I scratched it off my list when I realized my PS2 light guns wont work on any HD CRT's.
> 
> 
> Today I stopped into a local Salvation Army to try and find an old Commodore RGB monitor, and a 960 was sitting there. Tested it out, and now its home and my PS1 games so far look great via S-Video, PS2 via component looks pretty awesome as well. Im going to plug in my PS3 and 360 just to check out some real HD on this thing. But I just wanted to share my excitement.
> 
> 
> Price was $76.50 out the door.



I'm rarely jealous of people, but damn


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Originally Posted by hemogoblin:

Well in my quest for an awesome CRT TV for my old gaming needs (PS1, Sega Saturn) I was brought to the 960 as being the best CRT ever. I scratched it off my list when I realized my PS2 light guns wont work on any HD CRT's.


Today I stopped into a local Salvation Army to try and find an old Commodore RGB monitor, and a 960 was sitting there. Tested it out, and now its home and my PS1 games so far look great via S-Video, PS2 via component looks pretty awesome as well. Im going to plug in my PS3 and 360 just to check out some real HD on this thing. But I just wanted to share my excitement.


Price was $76.50 out the door.


Originally Posted by unclepauly:

I'm rarely jealous of people, but damn


- Obviously the Salvation Army had no idea of the resale value on the secondary market. I mean, $76.50? I paid that much for an upconverting DVD player with sales tax!


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bitwize* /forum/post/18363892
> 
> 
> Well, I've come full circle. Just re-purchased the XBR960 that I sold 2 years ago...LOL. My buddy Chad B is going to perform a touch-up calibration in the near future. It might be more than a touch-up though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried a sub-$1,000 flat panel (Panasonic, Samsung, Sony) and I just wasn't happy, so I went back to CRT. For the past 2 years I've had a 60" Kuro and it was very nice. My wife and I hope to move at some point, so we've been streamlining...selling the big stuff. I will not be taking the 960 with me when I move, but it will be a nice hold-me-over-until-I-get-a-new-house-and-projector HDTV. I wonder if "nice" CRT projectors will be a lot more affordable in a couple of years?



Sell high, buy low?


The only thing that my LCD seems to have over the 960 is a slightly sharper HD picture and that is only because LCDs in general lack the richer detail, color, black level and depth that the 960 has and the trade-off enables the picture to be a bit sharper, abiet, without the same type of punch.


----------



## LE Studios

I'm on a quest for the KD-34XBR960 and SU-34XBR3! I rather connect the PS3 and AppleTV well as the Xbox 360. I really want a good old Sony XBR CRT to keep from spending $5,000 plus on 3D LED XBR. It's tempting but I rather buy more photography equipment like Canon 5D Mark II. Any input on where to find a good condition 960 is welcome.


----------



## Ennui




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LE Studios* /forum/post/18388233
> 
> 
> I'm on a quest for the KD-34XBR960 and SU-34XBR3! I rather connect the PS3 and AppleTV well as the Xbox 360. I really want a good old Sony XBR CRT to keep from spending $5,000 plus on 3D LED XBR. It's tempting but I rather buy more photography equipment like Canon 5D Mark II. Any input on where to find a good condition 960 is welcome.



Where are you? These TV's do not ship well.


There is always Ebay and Craigslist.


----------



## LE Studios

I'm in Houston, TX but close to Spring, TX.


----------



## PathofNeo

I've also been searching for an XBR960 to no end. The power supply blew on my last one and didn't bother getting it fixed, so I upgraded to a Pioneer 5020 Kuro.. or should I say downgraded? Anyway I've had this plasma for nearly 2 years and while I enjoy the hell out of it, it's simply doesn't have as good a picture as I remember from that Sony.


I'm located in Raleigh, NC and if anyone knows anyone in the triangle area that's willing to part with one I'd pay top dollar (more than they go for on craigslist.. since none ever seem to pop up.. or I just miss it







)


Thanks.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

"I've also been searching for an XBR960 to no end. The power supply blew on my last one and didn't bother getting it fixed, so I upgraded to a Pioneer 5020 Kuro.. or should I say downgraded? Anyway I've had this plasma for nearly 2 years and while I enjoy the hell out of it, it's simply doesn't have as good a picture as I remember from that Sony."


Funny, how so many of us have added LCDs, Plasmas, etc. to our homes and still can see these newer sets still can't compare to the older 960.


Even though they have come a long way, most noticable is the amount of added detail one still sees on the 960; for example, faces appear smooth on a LCD while lines and stubble can be seen on the 960. Same with the minute details in nature and travel programs. There is overall more richness in the picture due to the depth perception that flat screens are unable to duplicate. And, of course, non-HD material is upscaled much better.


While very happy with the Samsung LCD in our den, I too would be disappointed if I had to replace the 960 for anything else would be less, despite the bigger screen size.


----------



## PathofNeo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/18396686
> 
> 
> I too would be disappointed if I had to replace the 960 for anything else would be less, despite the bigger screen size.



Yes I'm enjoying the real estate of the 50" plasma. This is probably the key reason I decided to go for it instead of another 960 back then. It does really have a wow factor to it, something that 34" just can't accomplish in that respect. The Pioneer is probably the best of the bunch out there now, but for the life of me I don't recall it having as good a picture as the 960.


The main concern for me is upscaling dvds isn't quite up to par on the Pioneer. Yes, it's watchable but the 960 made my dvds look like HD. Until my collection of dvds gets an HD treatment, I'll always give the nod to the 960. Besides, I don't feel like buying my whole collection again just to have a similar picture on the Pioneer.


To be fair I didn't even give HD material a shot on the 960, since at the time all I had was a dvd player and Xbox 360 (no blu-ray). But I STILL remember it having a better picture than 90% of the content that I watch on this plasma (which is HD all the time since SD isn't great on it).


Oh well.. I'll keep lookin' for one in the Raleigh area.


----------



## unclepauly

Man you missed out, Blu-ray is outstanding on the 960. On my KDS-60A3000 Blu-rays are a little sharper and of course 60", but any movie that has decent image quality ALWAYS goes to the 960 so I can see *exactly what I'm looking at*.


----------



## hemogoblin

Ok I finally got the 960 setup in my bedroom and it looks great. Blu ray, Xbox 360, even PS1 looks great. But I have a few concerns.


On almost every input I have to turn brightness up to at least 45-55, and so far its best at 52-55 to get rid of black crush. I cant seem to get a good balance of keeping away black crush without looking a bit washed out, any suggestions?


Whites on this thing are either really amazing or something is wrong. On certain whites in HD (lightbulbs, sunlight, flames) the whites are so strong that if I stare at them I need to squint. Its very cool but scary, it feels like its too bright and may damage the screen.


I havent touched the service menu, but probably will. Do all 960's have the same default settings? I'd like to see if the previous owner touched them.


And when you mess with the service menu, is it for each specific input and each specific picture mode? Or is it an overall thing?


I have only tweaked this thing with the built in Sony Blu Ray easter eggs, here are my HDMI settings:


Pro

Picture: 25

Brightness: 58

Color: 35

Hue: 0

Sharpness: Min

Temp: Neutral

Color Axis: Monitor


Now I do like my screens on the bright side, but I feel like I NEED to have it this high just to see dark detail. Could there be an issue?


----------



## Joseph Dubin

.Hemogoblin.


Brightness should always be much lower compared to contrast (i.e, picture). IMHO, these settings being in reverse is probably the cause for your sqinting.


I'm not familiar with the easter eggs found on your bluray disc - are they like the THM Optomizer found on DVDs that contain different patterns for each user setting? Also keep in mind that what might be good for bluray might not be good for HD-TV, since the outputs are from different components (I have a HDMI switchbox and use PRO for HD and MOVIE for upconverted DVD since otherwise all user settings would need changing when switching between the two).


I tweaked the user settings for cable as follows with the help of HD test patterns stored on my DVR:


PRO, Picture 43, Brightness 27, Color 41, Hue R2, Sharpness 33, temp cool, edge off, color axis default.


Hope these suggestions help.


I also went into the service menu to callibrate service settings and found many set by the factory were way off from both, the Sony defaults and the general consenus found under the forum SONY SERVICE CODES. Be sure to refer to the chart specifically for the 960 since it covers other models as well.


Good luck and keep us posted.

Joe


----------



## DSperber

Quote:

Originally Posted by *hemogoblin* 
I havent touched the service menu, but probably will. Do all 960's have the same default settings? I'd like to see if the previous owner touched them.
It's actually unlikely that all 960's have the same "default" settings... even when they first came out of the factory. Certainly my 960 did not have the service manual defaults on it when it was brand new and first delivered years ago. Seems like Sony must have tested each one before shipping, and the pre-loaded factory defaults definitely do not match the service manual, much less from one 960 to another.


Quote:

And when you mess with the service menu, is it for each specific input and each specific picture mode? Or is it an overall thing?
Some settings are "global" for all inputs and resolutions, and other settings are specific to a particular input and resolution.


It is absolutely true that a number of settings also vary by picture mode, whether "global"or not. Your choice of PRO is proper to allow you to adjust things without any mode-preset interference. But you can adjust things while in a mode-preset, and it will be that preset's settings which will be remembered.


Quote:

Pro

Picture: 25

Brightness: 58

Color: 35

Hue: 0

Sharpness: Min

Temp: Neutral

Color Axis: Monitor
Without looking at the corresponding service menu settings it's hard to explain why you would need 58 on brightness in the user menu. Everybody's set is a bit different, as are our tastes, viewing room environment, etc.


For example, not that it really means anything but my INPUT7 settings are:


Mode\t\tPRO

Picture\t\t35

Brightness\t\t32

Color\t\t31

Hue\t\t0

Sharpness\t\tMIN

Color Temp\t\tCOOL

Clear Edge\t\tOFF

Color Axis\t\tDEFAULT


Note that I prefer color temp of "cool", which tends to produce a more bluish white. And for that, I found color axis of "default" gave me the best flesh tones... although there were four particular service menu items relating to the infamous Sony factory-provided "red push" that absolutely must be adjusted (if they haven't already been on yours) to tone down the reddish tint on skin. These four items (RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB) are in 2170P-4 section in the attached spreadsheet (service menu sheet) and are shown as "VITAL >>".


So comparing your numbers to mine or anyone else's is just for reference, not because one is right and one is wrong. Adjust things so that you're happy... but be sure to use a stationary test image from and accepted reference test source (DVD, etc.), especially for overscan adjustment and brightness/contrast and color.


Nevertheless, to help you on your way and to serve as a nice and organized starting point for "writing down" your current settings before you begin to tweak, I'm attaching my own spreadsheet for my 960, showing both (a) user-menu, and (b) service-menu. All items are shown, with my current settings values. If my settings differ from the service manual defaults, the service manual defaults are shown next to it within parentheses (so you can really see what the theoretical factory defaults are).


Finally, regarding geometry and convergence, my set's picture tube received a "magnet job" soon after it arrived... which is the only way to make certain corrections that cannot be fixed through the service menu. I was unhappy with the bowing and curvature and convergence issues out-of-the-box and arranged with Sony to have a service factory tech pay me a visit to try and fix things. That first visit was less than successful and I was quite unhappy.


I called Sony again, and they authorized a second visit but this time from a local authorized service tech of my choice, who turned out to be a really terrific well-trained and motivated person. He spent two hours (across two separate visits, because he ran out of magnets during the first visit) working on all the corners and horizontal lines, correcting curvature and convergence problems.


So my own personal geometry settings which you see in the attached spreadsheet reflect my particular picture tube post-magnet-job. Obviously your set is different, and my numbers will not really apply directly.


Still... a pre-populated complete settings spreadsheet for the 960 is definitely what you need to begin from.

 

kd-34xbr960.zip 24.2626953125k . file


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hemogoblin,


Dsperber is so right when it comes to adjustments - each set is different and user settings are so dependent upon the service adjustments. If you notice my user settings are different from Dsperber's but I'm willing to make a gentleman's wager that there is hardly a difference in the actual picture, probably due to the service settings.


And he is right - those four service adjustments affecting red push are vital and almost every post I've seen uses those same numbers.


If you use a set-up bluray or DVD, be sure all enhanacements within the player are off, including dark levels. This should work fine for both, adjusting the service menu for 1080i and the user settings for bluray/upconverted DVD. I just wish cable providers set aside an on-demand feature dedicated to setting up one's monitor with test patterns like INHD did about five years ago before going off the air (so glad I have them stored on DVR). Know I'm repeating myself but HD adjustments can differ slightly from those for bluray or upconverted DVD and turn a great picture into an even greater one, so don't be afraid to slightly fine-tune those settings a bit to see if there is any improvement on your cable or dish setup.


----------



## unclepauly

Sometimes it's better just to have a pro come out and touch it up, that way you know you didn't make anything worse and you are getting the most out of your set. Too bad it costs a few clams


----------



## Summit HDTV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/18408363
> 
> 
> Sometimes it's better just to have a pro come out and touch it up, that way you know you didn't make anything worse and you are getting the most out of your set. Too bad it costs a few clams



Hello,


I like your attitude!







A pro who knows CRT can come in, focus on only what needs to be changed in the user and service menus and be done in several hours. Geometry probably takes the most time, even for a pro. In addition the pro should know where best to make compromise as a CRT is an imperfect beast by nature. Personally I won't do without CRT - I still love it. Yes calibration costs clams, but worth is relative. A calibrated XBR960 (which we own) is a beautiful display to enjoy.


Joe


----------



## Summit HDTV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/18407667
> 
> 
> 
> Note that I prefer color temp of "cool", which tends to produce a more bluish white. And for that, I found color axis of "default" gave me the best flesh tones... although there were four particular service menu items relating to the infamous Sony factory-provided "red push" that absolutely must be adjusted (if they haven't already been on yours) to tone down the reddish tint on skin. These four items (RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB) are in 2170P-4 section in the attached spreadsheet (service menu sheet) and are shown as "VITAL >>".



Hello,


Great post.


RYR, RYB, GYR and GYB adjust the color decoder for Red and Green, respectively. Blue is done in the user menu using the color and hue controls, and must be done prior to adjusting the Red and Green color decoder controls. You can do a "blue only" mode using SM controls, which is very helpful when setting color and hue. In addition you can isolate green and red when adjusting the color decoder. A color bars pattern and color decoder adjust pattern are required for these adjustments.


I agree in that using some else's settings is not the way to go. Variability in components, materials, personal taste, etc all work against the person using another persons settings. Do your homework for a DIY project. Read, read, read!


Regards,


Joe


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Regarding color temperature, I have my 960 set to cool in order to have pure white to achieve the proper brightness and picture adjustments. After adjustments are completed, does the temperature setting then become simply a matter of preference or would changing it also affect the user settings requiring adjustment once again?


Thanks as always,,

Joe


----------



## unclepauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Summit HDTV* /forum/post/18409013
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I like your attitude!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pro who knows CRT can come in, focus on only what needs to be changed in the user and service menus and be done in several hours. Geometry probably takes the most time, even for a pro. In addition the pro should know where best to make compromise as a CRT is an imperfect beast by nature. Personally I won't do without CRT - I still love it. Yes calibration costs clams, but worth is relative. A calibrated XBR960 (which we own) is a beautiful display to enjoy.
> 
> 
> Joe



Yeah I basically just put my set to warm/monitor and turned sharpness and brightness down and it's beautiful. I can't wait to have somebody come out and dial this baby in, of course as soon as I rack up a few clams


----------



## Summit HDTV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/18410520
> 
> 
> Regarding color temperature, I have my 960 set to cool in order to have pure white to achieve the proper brightness and picture adjustments. After adjustments are completed, does the temperature setting then become simply a matter of preference or would changing it also affect the user settings requiring adjustment once again?
> 
> 
> Thanks as always,,
> 
> Joe



Hello Joe,


Changing color temperature may change the brightness and, tp a lesser extent contrast (Picture). If you recheck Brightness after changing the color temperature preset you should be fine. Other user controls should stay the same.


Regards,


Joe


----------



## Summit HDTV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/18412051
> 
> 
> Yeah I basically just put my set to warm/monitor and turned sharpness and brightness down and it's beautiful. I can't wait to have somebody come out and dial this baby in, of course as soon as I rack up a few clams



Hello,


Please feel free to contact me. I service the Toledo area.


Regards,


Joe


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Summit HDTV* /forum/post/18413211
> 
> 
> Hello Joe,
> 
> 
> Changing color temperature may change the brightness and, tp a lesser extent contrast (Picture). If you recheck Brightness after changing the color temperature preset you should be fine. Other user controls should stay the same.
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> 
> Joe



That's good to know and I'll give it a try on neutral. Will let you know if I did indeed need to change picture and brightness using those test patterns.


Oh, BTW, my color axis is set to monitor, not default as originally posted. Agree with everyone who says default places too much emphasis on red, however, I did notice a smaller difference between the two after having the set callibrated.


Thanks to Joe from Joe.


UPDATE:


Joe,


Just as you said - minute changes were required with brightness slightly more than picture and the rest of the settings remaining the same.


For HD, the test patterns indicated the picture needed lowering by one digit and brightness three; for upconverted DVD, picture was also lowered by one digit with the brightness raised by two (due to the player's output set to dark).


Picture looks great no matter what the color temperature and since it is a matter of preference (not callibration or proper adjustment) am keeping it at neutral for a while.


----------



## Summit HDTV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/18413450
> 
> 
> That's good to know and I'll give it a try on neutral. Will let you know if I did indeed need to change picture and brightness using those test patterns.
> 
> 
> Oh, BTW, my color axis is set to monitor, not default as originally posted. Agree with everyone who says default places too much emphasis on red, however, I did notice a smaller difference between the two after having the set callibrated.
> 
> 
> Thanks to Joe from Joe.
> 
> 
> UPDATE:
> 
> 
> Joe,
> 
> 
> Just as you said - minute changes were required with brightness slightly more than picture and the rest of the settings remaining the same.
> 
> 
> For HD, the test patterns indicated the picture needed lowering by one digit and brightness three; for upconverted DVD, picture was also lowered by one digit with the brightness raised by two (due to the player's output set to dark).
> 
> 
> Picture looks great no matter what the color temperature and since it is a matter of preference (not callibration or proper adjustment) am keeping it at neutral for a while.



Hi Joe,


Glad it worked out! After a grayscale calibration the calibrator must check user brightness for exactly the same scenario - altering color temperature cuts and drives can affect brightness and to a lesser extent contrast. You're right about color axis default/monitor. Default is awful and is meant for a showroom. Monitor produces a toned down red (less red push), but it can be made better via service menu intervention. But for the user Monitor is a great option!


Regards,


Joe


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Summit HDTV* /forum/post/18417603
> 
> 
> Hi Joe,
> 
> 
> Glad it worked out! After a grayscale calibration the calibrator must check user brightness for exactly the same scenario - altering color temperature cuts and drives can affect brightness and to a lesser extent contrast. You're right about color axis default/monitor. Default is awful and is meant for a showroom. Monitor produces a toned down red (less red push), but it can be made better via service menu intervention. But for the user Monitor is a great option!
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> 
> Joe



Hi Joe,


That explains that while there was the slight but obvious difference on overall color it didn't offset the color saturation and tint on the test patterns viewed through the blue-filter glasses.


It also brought out a bit of silver-type shading on some graphics (i.e., the THX logo on DVDs) which was probably blocked out by the blue tint of the cool temperature.


Thanks again.


Joe


----------



## Summit HDTV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/18419293
> 
> 
> Hi Joe,
> 
> 
> That explains that while there was the slight but obvious difference on overall color it didn't offset the color saturation and tint on the test patterns viewed through the blue-filter glasses.



Correct! Grayscale (color temperature) and color/tint are independent functions. Changing grayscale shouldn't change color and tint.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/18419293
> 
> 
> It also brought out a bit of silver-type shading on some graphics (i.e., the THX logo on DVDs) which was probably blocked out by the blue tint of the cool temperature.
> 
> 
> Thanks again.
> 
> 
> Joe



You have a good eye. Getting color temperature closer to D65 removes color bias. Grayscale calibration is the process of setting the color coordinates to D65 from black light level to bright white light level. That's why it's called grayscale, as we try to adjust over the entire range of brightness. Removing color bias through grayscale calibration produces a neutral canvas on which to lay down color. The result of grayscale calibration is you end up seeing positive differences in unusual colors, like silver, tan, gold, brown, etc. I could go on. When you went from Cool to Neutral you went closer to D65.


Combining correct grayscale with aligned color decoder controls makes overall color performance that much better because now red/green push/pull is eliminated as well!


Regards,


Joe


----------



## Summit HDTV

Hello,


Here's a calibration report of a Sony KV-34XBR960.











The both pre and post calibration results are shown. The upper left graph in each page shows the color temperature, with the white line (reference) showing 6500 K. The lower left chart shows how each RBG "Gun" relates to the other. Ideally each RBG color will lay on top of the others all through the brightness. BTW as you move on the X axis from left to right the brightness goes from near black (10 IRE) to bright white (100 IRE). This is a very well behaved display and capable of excellent color reproduction.


If you want to see a better rendition of this report with more explanation look here http://www.summithdtv.com/sample_reports.htm . There are a couple XBR960 reports listed under Sony.


Regards,


Joe


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Summit HDTV* /forum/post/18421222
> 
> 
> You have a good eye.



That's because I had cateracts removed in both of them.










Joe, enjoyed reading all that information regarding temperature and greyscale.


Joe


----------



## TeeJay1952

Joe did my 960 7 years ago and it still looks great.

I want to upgrade but the dang thing keeps on working. I keep hoping for the 7 blink problem but unfortunately I got a good one.


----------



## Summit HDTV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TeeJay1952* /forum/post/18423255
> 
> 
> Joe did my 960 7 years ago and it still looks great.
> 
> I want to upgrade but the dang thing keeps on working. I keep hoping for the 7 blink problem but unfortunately I got a good one.



Thanks TeeJay! Great to hear from you again. I liked your display so much we bought one! We've been very happy with it.


Joe


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TeeJay1952* /forum/post/18423255
> 
> 
> Joe did my 960 7 years ago and it still looks great.
> 
> I want to upgrade but the dang thing keeps on working. I keep hoping for the 7 blink problem but unfortunately I got a good one.



TeeJay,


This evening my wife was watching QVC-HD (as always) on the 960. When she came into the den I turned it on for her on our LCD. My better half pointed out how tan the program host was and mentioned she appeared even darker in the living room. Out of curiousity I turned on the 960 and immediately saw not only a deeper tan but detail in skin pigmentation on her face, arms and hands that was not apparent on the LCD


The moral of this story? Remember the old adage about getting what you're wishing for......


----------



## diyer999

All things being equal, which is better or worse, getting a 960 with the anti-reflective coating partially worn off, and then having to remove it all chemically or mechanically, which I assume will be the condition of any current 960, ...


or a 960N with no coating or a permanent coating, whichever it has (I never could get to the bottom of whether the N has no coating at all or if it has a permanent coating baked on or etched in)?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *diyer999* /forum/post/18428673
> 
> 
> All things being equal, which is better or worse, getting a 960 with the anti-reflective coating partially worn off, and then having to remove it all chemically or mechanically, which I assume will be the condition of any current 960, ...
> 
> 
> or a 960N with no coating or a permanent coating, whichever it has (I never could get to the bottom of whether the N has no coating at all or if it has a permanent coating baked on or etched in)?



The 960N has internal anti-glare as opposed to the external coating of the 960. Since both utilize anti-reflective protection, you would be better off with the N model rather than a 960 that eventually will have the coating removed.


A tiny portion of the coating is worn off on our set and since it is close to a corner is only noticable at a certain viewing angle. Being so small, it appears only as reflection, not altering the picture quality at all.


----------



## giderac

Anyone know if the 960 supports hdmi control or bravia sync as sony calls it?


----------



## R8ders2K




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *giderac* /forum/post/18463511
> 
> 
> Anyone know if the 960 supports hdmi control or bravia sync as sony calls it?



960's too old for those features.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/18007834
> 
> 
> Purchased the Samsung LN32B360 for the den.



I know this was talked about some months back, but I'm curious to know how the 720p limitation does or does not bother you.


I have a Motorola DCH3416 HD-DVR connected to my XBR960, and the DVR only supports fixed output resolution (e.g. 1080i or 720, per the setup menu). But actually, that's just the setup default. You can actually change the output resolution at any time (without getting into the setup menu) by simply pushing the FORMAT button. This cycles through the available resolutions.


In other words, it really is not all that inconvenient to pick either 1080i or 720p on command, depending on the resolution of the channel I've just tuned to and now plan to watch.


Ok... on several occasions I've gone to 720p to watch a series of recordings from Fox or Fox-affiliated channels, all of which are in 720p. Then I happen to next watch something that is 1080i (e.g. "Nurse Jackie"). If I don't remember to switch the DVR back to 1080i it will remain at 720p, meaning that the 1080i show will be down-converted to 720p.


And, I must say, at least on the 960 it is VERY obvious that something is not right. The image is softened, the brightness and/or color is a bit off, and it is so clear that this is unattractive that I'm immediately reminded that I forgot to go back to 1080i for the 1080i show.


And as soon as I switch the DVR back to 1080i, the picture is once again glorious.


My point is that to me, anyway, on the XBR960 there is a very definite "degradation" when a 1080i program is down-converted to 720p rather than sent to the 960 as 1080i. Similarly, but nowhere near as dramatic, a 720p program upconverted to 1080i by the DVR does not look as good as a 720p program sent out to the 960 as native 720p.


I know you said you thought the 720p Samsung was fine, but now that it's been a few months I'm wondering if your original feelings have perhaps evolved somewhat?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/18486195
> 
> 
> I know this was talked about some months back, but I'm curious to know how the 720p limitation does or does not bother you.
> 
> 
> I have a Motorola DCH3416 HD-DVR connected to my XBR960, and the DVR only supports fixed output resolution (e.g. 1080i or 720, per the setup menu). But actually, that's just the setup default. You can actually change the output resolution at any time (without getting into the setup menu) by simply pushing the FORMAT button. This cycles through the available resolutions.
> 
> 
> In other words, it really is not all that inconvenient to pick either 1080i or 720p on command, depending on the resolution of the channel I've just tuned to and now plan to watch.
> 
> 
> Ok... on several occasions I've gone to 720p to watch a series of recordings from Fox or Fox-affiliated channels, all of which are in 720p. Then I happen to next watch something that is 1080i (e.g. "Nurse Jackie"). If I don't remember to switch the DVR back to 1080i it will remain at 720p, meaning that the 1080i show will be down-converted to 720p.
> 
> 
> And, I must say, at least on the 960 it is VERY obvious that something is not right. The image is softened, the brightness and/or color is a bit off, and it is so clear that this is unattractive that I'm immediately reminded that I forgot to go back to 1080i for the 1080i show.
> 
> 
> And as soon as I switch the DVR back to 1080i, the picture is once again glorious.
> 
> 
> My point is that to me, anyway, on the XBR960 there is a very definite "degradation" when a 1080i program is down-converted to 720p rather than sent to the 960 as 1080i. Similarly, but nowhere near as dramatic, a 720p program upconverted to 1080i by the DVR does not look as good as a 720p program sent out to the 960 as native 720p.
> 
> 
> I know you said you thought the 720p Samsung was fine, but now that it's been a few months I'm wondering if your original feelings have perhaps evolved somewhat?



Not at all. At 720p the Samsung's picture is sharp and the colors are great. I have everything input at 1080i/p.


It's fine for a second HT system (obviously it's not the 960) and at 32 inches, I don't see how the color and picture could be sharper at 1080p resolution.


But again, displaying a signal at 720p is different than accepting a signal at that same resolution. The Samsung does accept signals up to 1080p and on both that and the 960 I have everything output at that higher resolution. I have experimented on the 960 - a downconverted 720p input appears too soft and the color is flatter. I've also noticed that HD broadcasts at 720p when upconverted to 1080i by the cable box are also crisper than being left alone.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/18486195
> 
> 
> I know this was talked about some months back, but I'm curious to know how the 720p limitation does or does not bother you.
> 
> 
> I have a Motorola DCH3416 HD-DVR connected to my XBR960, and the DVR only supports fixed output resolution (e.g. 1080i or 720, per the setup menu). But actually, that's just the setup default. You can actually change the output resolution at any time (without getting into the setup menu) by simply pushing the FORMAT button. This cycles through the available resolutions.
> 
> 
> In other words, it really is not all that inconvenient to pick either 1080i or 720p on command, depending on the resolution of the channel I've just tuned to and now plan to watch.
> 
> 
> Ok... on several occasions I've gone to 720p to watch a series of recordings from Fox or Fox-affiliated channels, all of which are in 720p. Then I happen to next watch something that is 1080i (e.g. "Nurse Jackie"). If I don't remember to switch the DVR back to 1080i it will remain at 720p, meaning that the 1080i show will be down-converted to 720p.
> 
> 
> And, I must say, at least on the 960 it is VERY obvious that something is not right. The image is softened, the brightness and/or color is a bit off, and it is so clear that this is unattractive that I'm immediately reminded that I forgot to go back to 1080i for the 1080i show.
> 
> 
> And as soon as I switch the DVR back to 1080i, the picture is once again glorious.
> 
> 
> My point is that to me, anyway, on the XBR960 there is a very definite "degradation" when a 1080i program is down-converted to 720p rather than sent to the 960 as 1080i. Similarly, but nowhere near as dramatic, a 720p program upconverted to 1080i by the DVR does not look as good as a 720p program sent out to the 960 as native 720p.




It's interesting to see this report, but really not at all surprising. (And I suspect you've got very high standards.)


Any signal processing/converting will inevitably introduce some distortion, reduce signal/noise, etc. So, no matter how good the quality of the conversion, you're always better off bypassing additional conversion steps. The '960 is a wonderful device, but it can't perform noiseless conversions.


Mark


----------



## Summit HDTV

Hello,


Just for kicks I did the precision focus on our XBR960 today then followed up with convergence. Kentech really did a great job documenting many of these procedures. I had done them all (except focus pot adjust) but a touch up every now and then is beneficial.


After drilling a small hole in the side of our display and using a screwdriver to adjust the focus pot I found out the factory focus wasn't too far off. Is it better? Yes. Was it bad? No. Regardless it's better now and worth the investment of time. After adjusting the focus pot you should go through a focus adjustment as described for the 2170D-4 memory area. Since the focus pot and these memory areas interact anyway they should be treated as one adjustment.


Any time you adjust focus on a CRT device you should check convergence afterward for subsequent convergence errors. This time the convergence was thrown off via focus adjustment and I had to go over convergence a couple times to set it back to right.


I've always fought with our display because of the magenta and green blotches. I once again tried to minimize landing errors and succeeded. Landing takes time to get one's arms around. Back and forth with the Landing controls, making sure you see the effect on the overall screen uniformity.


Here are some pics. The slight trapezoid error shown is a result of camera angle and not present in the image. You will also see slight curvature of the lines. This curvature must be corrected via magnets. Also there are no horizontal convergence correction registers so magnets are necessary to correct this error also.


Convergence

Always strive to push convergence errors to the edge or corner of the display. You can see the worst corner is the lower left. Although I could have improved the corner performance, convergence would have been made worse at the whole left hand bottom side of the image. When adjusting convergence on this display you are placed in a position where you must choose Red or Blue to align with Green. It would be nice if Red and Blue have their own convergence controls, but Sony did not design the controls with that much flexibility. So you're better off aligning Red to Green and letting Blue float.











Overscan

I performed overscan reduction a while ago and here it is!











Linearitry

Circles!!











Crosshatch with dots. Please note the fine dot!











Taking photos of a direct view CRT image is very difficult. I did manage to get one good shot that shows the excellent black this set can offer. Here it is.











Split gray pattern showing color of gray (correct grayscale)












These sets are not yet at their 1/2 life and ISF calibration is a worthy investment for these beautiful CRT jewels! Make sure you can find an ISF calibrator that knows how to do these adjustments.


Regards,


Joe


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Summit HDTV* /forum/post/18503346
> 
> 
> Taking photos of a direct view CRT image is very difficult.



Looks like test patterns from DisplayMate.


I've not been successful taking pictures of my 960... in particular the color in the resulting images really doesn't match that which I see on screen. I need to play with manual white balance adjustments to get a good image.


But your shots make me want to give it a second try, more serious this time with a little effort spent setting up the camera/lens correctly (Nikon D300).


I also have DisplayMate on my PC, which is only a long component video cable away from the 960. I have an ATI video card with a DVI-to-component adapter and a 30-foot component video cable I bought years ago when I thought I wanted the ability to drive my 960 from my computer. So I can send out all of these test images from the computer... and see if I can photograph the results.


In particular I've never had an ISF calibration, though I did have a wonderfully successful magnet job when I first acquired my set. Between that effort plus my adjustments in the service menu I must say curvature and bowing on horizontal lines is quite minor on my 960, with just the lower-right corner being a current small culprit.


I'd like to review my geometry/convergence with the DisplayMate test patterns since I haven't done that in a very long time. Let's see if I can take decent pictures.


----------



## Summit HDTV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/18503523
> 
> 
> Looks like test patterns from DisplayMate.
> 
> 
> I've not been successful taking pictures of my 960... in particular the color in the resulting images really doesn't match that which I see on screen. I need to play with manual white balance adjustments to get a good image.
> 
> 
> But your shots make me want to give it a second try, more serious this time with a little effort spent setting up the camera/lens correctly (Nikon D300).
> 
> 
> I also have DisplayMate on my PC, which is only a long component video cable away from the 960. I have an ATI video card with a DVI-to-component adapter and a 30-foot component video cable I bought years ago when I thought I wanted the ability to drive my 960 from my computer. So I can send out all of these test images from the computer... and see if I can photograph the results.
> 
> 
> In particular I've never had an ISF calibration, though I did have a wonderfully successful magnet job when I first acquired my set. Between that effort plus my adjustments in the service menu I must say curvature and bowing on horizontal lines is quite minor on my 960, with just the lower-right corner being a current small culprit.
> 
> 
> I'd like to review my geometry/convergence with the DisplayMate test patterns since I haven't done that in a very long time. Let's see if I can take decent pictures.



Hello,


The test patterns are from a Sencore VP403 pattern generator. It's the one I use in calibrations. The camera used is a Nikon D200 with a 50 mm F1.8 AF lens and tripod. I agree with you the color can come out funky (oversaturated?) and not represent what you see on the screen. In fact that happened to me today and I played with saturation and white balance in Elements. It's the resulting vertical lines that I don't like either. So yes, it's a hit or miss proposition to get a decent photo.


Oh how I wish I knew how to do magnets! I don't think it's likely that difficult, but I think it's best to learn from someone that knows how to do it and eliminate all the guesswork involved.


Regards,


Joe


----------



## Summit HDTV

Hello,


My wife and I just watched some of the CMA Awards tonight and the precision focus and convergence adjust procedures made a big difference in overall picture quality. There's more detail and the image is more crisp. Small text at the bottom of the screen is more readable. It's definitely worth burning a few hours of time to do these procedures. Pass the popcorn.


Regards,


Joe


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Are the overall test patterns found in the 960's service menu reliable enough? I once experimented with the set's internal cross-hatch pattern and found an external one yielded much better geometric results. The curviture is quite minimal on my set,, even in the extreme corners (guess the factory technicians got the magnet settings right) wheras adjustments based on the 960's generated pattern caused extensive bowing toward the right when watching an actual picture.


Also found keeping the internal edge enhancement (not user) flat helped better adjust the service items related to focus - I'm way too chicken to drill a hole and fool around with the focus pot to make it any more precise than that.


Ken Tech's spreadsheets and the Sony Service Code forum are God-sends. So many factory-made adjustments were so way off compared to either the Sony or Ken Tech suggestions that it was easy to see the difference after settling on what appeared best for my set. While I might have lucked out with the magnets, I especially remember the overscan, vertical centering and geometric settings done in the factory were way off.


----------



## Summit HDTV




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/18504438
> 
> 
> Are the overall test patterns found in the 960's service menu reliable enough? I once experimented with the set's internal cross-hatch pattern and found an external one yielded much better geometric results. The curviture is quite minimal on my set,, even in the extreme corners (guess the factory technicians got the magnet settings right) wheras adjustments based on the 960's generated pattern caused extensive bowing toward the right when watching an actual picture.
> 
> 
> Also found keeping the internal edge enhancement (not user) flat helped better adjust the service items related to focus - I'm way too chicken to drill a hole and fool around with the focus pot to make it any more precise than that.
> 
> 
> Ken Tech's spreadsheets and the Sony Service Code forum are God-sends. So many factory-made adjustments were so way off compared to either the Sony or Ken Tech suggestions that it was easy to see the difference after settling on what appeared best for my set. While I might have lucked out with the magnets, I especially remember the overscan, vertical centering and geometric settings done in the factory were way off.



Hi Joe,


I never used the internal Sony test patterns. When we calibrate we were taught to go all the way through the video chain if possible. So if I use a DVD calibration disk the DVD player and cable(s) are included in the calibration. Personally I consider internal patterns to be unreliable because you can't relate them to the input.


Drilling the hole wasn't that big of a deal. Actually the plastic caught the drill bit and pulled it in







. However there's nothing in that area so no harm - no foul







. It's a fairly low risk procedure. Maybe I'll snap a photo and post it.


In every 960/970 I've encountered the factory settings related to overscan and geometry never were close to proper!


Regards,


Joe


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Summit HDTV* /forum/post/18505011
> 
> 
> Hi Joe,
> 
> 
> I never used the internal Sony test patterns. When we calibrate we were taught to go all the way through the video chain if possible. So if I use a DVD calibration disk the DVD player and cable(s) are included in the calibration. Personally I consider internal patterns to be unreliable because you can't relate them to the input.
> 
> 
> Drilling the hole wasn't that big of a deal. Actually the plastic caught the drill bit and pulled it in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . However there's nothing in that area so no harm - no foul
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . It's a fairly low risk procedure. Maybe I'll snap a photo and post it.
> 
> 
> In every 960/970 I've encountered the factory settings related to overscan and geometry never were close to proper!
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> 
> Joe



Thanks Joe.


It was my theory that patterns from the inputed source would be more true and precise than those generated from the set. That's why I saved on my DVR hard drive the HD test patterns broadcasted by the old INHD station. Would not have been able to get the precise service and user settings required for the HD cable input using a DVD set-up disc (upconverted to 1080i) and would have been impossible to correct the overscan and then re-adjust the geometry accordingly (as we know, changes in the horizontal and vertical size causes bowing) without those or a set-up disc.


----------



## Slinky11

Hey all, I have a couple of things to discuss. Xbox 360 setup and convergence


Regarding the 360:

I have it hooked up to HDMI

-Does anyone have any insight on setting the 360 systems resolution? (720p or 1080i)

-Also, any opinion on the display settings: Reference levels, and HDMI Color Space? Most of the discussions I found searching around online never really came to any consensus, just a lot of back and forth opinions


regarding convergence, I have been using KenTechs patterns over MS. I understand this set is quite aged by now but, some of the improvements came from rather large changes. For example:
D-CONV

3-RUMB (Original:23) My ideal setting was 5

5-RLMB (O:15) Ideal: 0

9-LUBW (O:21) Ideal: 10



There are a few others like that but you get the idea, are others seeing this? or am I missing some prerequisite to setting convergence?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Slinky11* /forum/post/18531707
> 
> 
> Hey all, I have a couple of things to discuss. Xbox 360 setup and convergence



Can't comment on Xbox. Don't own one.




> Quote:
> regarding convergence, I have been using KenTechs patterns over MS. I understand this set is quite aged by now but, some of the improvements came from rather large changes. For example:
> D-CONV
> 
> 3-RUMB (Original:23) My ideal setting was 5
> 
> 5-RLMB (O:15) Ideal: 0
> 
> 9-LUBW (O:21) Ideal: 10



Everybody's set is a bit different... this is an analog device. Also, some user's sets have undergone magnet work to correct some video bowing and curvature artifacts that can only be corrected physically in this manner and not through the service menu. But these magnet corrections will also have an affect on convergence, so service menu compensations and attempts at further correction will cause the numbers on those sets to vary widely from sets that have not undergone the same magnet work.


So... just for example... here are my relevant D-CONV numbers for 1080i and HDMI INPUT-7 (although I believe these settings are "global" and do not vary by input or resolution). Again, I provide these only for contrast to yours, and to show you what mine look like. NOTE: my set HAS had magnet work performed on it.


The columns are item#, item, range, my current value, and (service manual default) if I have changed it.


0 YBWU 0-63 38 (31) Upper Ybow

1 YBWL 0-63 38 (31) Lower Ybow

2 RSAP 0-63 31 Right H amp (offset)

3 RUMB 0-63 27 (31) Right upper middle bow

4 RUBW 0-63 0 (31) Right upper bow

5 RLMB 0-63 27 (31) Right lower middle bow

6 RLBW 0-63 27 (31) Right lower bow

7 LSAP 0-63 25 (31) Left H amp (offset)

8 LUMB 0-63 11 (31) Left upper middle bow

9 LUBW 0-63 14 (31) Left upper bow

10 LLMB 0-63 26 (31) Left lower middle bow

11 LLBW 0-63 23 (31) Left lower bow


----------



## Joseph Dubin

On the 960 there are no problems watching material from HD stations (HBO-HD, etc) recorded onto a DVD-R and then played back upconverted to 1080i but on my LCD (Samsung LN32B360) movement is neither smooth or natural. The DVD player has to be set to 480p for it to appear natural (picture quality is better as well). There are no problems with movement or picture quality watching actual HD programs from the cable box, recordings made from SD stations upconverted to 1080p or upconverted commercial DVDs


Is the un-natural motion due to HD signals being downconverted for recording and then upconverted for playback for which the 960, being a CRT with superior scaling and line doubling, is able to eliminate? More curious than anything else.


Thanks as always,

Joe


----------



## KBI

This is still my dream TV.. & haven't seen any display that can touch it in the under 40inch range.. I love CRT.. I own a 04 Samsung HDTV, & it embarrasses my fathers 08 61inch Samsung DLP. The blacks/Contrast/color saturation.


----------



## jsnwtlr

My just-shy-of-5-years-old KV-34XBR960 died. When it's turned on the LED flashes but there's no picture. I'm disgusted with Sony and moving on. This was much too expensive a TV to die before it's even 5 years old. Anyway, I have the matching stand, also. If anyone is interested in the nonworking TV and/or the matching stand, and they can pick it up in Carrollton, NW of Dallas, just send me a PM. Otherwise, they are going to the junk pile.


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jsnwtlr* /forum/post/18593246
> 
> 
> My just-shy-of-5-years-old KV-34XBR960 died. When it's turned on the LED flashes but there's no picture. I'm disgusted with Sony and moving on. This was much too expensive a TV to die before it's even 5 years old. Anyway, I have the matching stand, also. If anyone is interested in the nonworking TV and/or the matching stand, and they can pick it up in Carrollton, NW of Dallas, just send me a PM. Otherwise, they are going to the junk pile.




Repair is always an option, last I checked Sony still warehouses parts for this tv. Chances are it's a circuit board or something that has gone wrong. The blinking light is a service code that you can look up in the XBR960 service manual. Parts do show up on ebay from time to time for very cheap; it may be a simple DIY job or a local repair shop could possibly fix it for $200 or so. You wont know unless you inquire.


Tons of people like me are in need of the XBR960 stand, please put it on ebay and sell it. You should get a nice $$ for it.


I have a copy of the service manual, 14mb PDF. PM for details.


http://www.free-service-manuals.com/...Manual_L69739/ 


http://www.eserviceinfo.com/download.php?fileid=31569


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KBI* /forum/post/18568934
> 
> 
> This is still my dream TV.. & haven't seen any display that can touch it in the under 40inch range.. I love CRT.. I own a 04 Samsung HDTV, & it embarrasses my fathers 08 61inch Samsung DLP. The blacks/Contrast/color saturation.



Agree and when we purchased our own LCD we were able to confirm how big a gap in picture quality between the two technologies there really is.


Not to sound critical of LCD - we are happy with the set for our secondary HT system and the vivid picture we have. Will even admit our 32 inch LCD has just as sharp a picture as our 960. However, it's sharp picture also lacks the amount of enhanced detail (facial hair, etc.) seen on the by the 960. It lacks depth and the three-dimensional "feel" (due to the reasons you mentioned) and there is something un-natural about live broadcasts - while they don't appear "film-like" they also do not to naturally "video-like" as well.


But when Plasma (considered the best of the new flat screen technologies) is still advertised as coming close to a CRT..., well, that says it all.


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/18594467
> 
> 
> Agree and when we purchased our own LCD we were able to confirm how big a gap in picture quality between the two technologies there really is.
> 
> 
> Not to sound critical of LCD - we are happy with the set for our secondary HT system and the vivid picture we have. Will even admit our 32 inch LCD has just as sharp a picture as our 960. However, it's sharp picture also lacks the amount of enhanced detail (facial hair, etc.) seen on the by the 960. It lacks depth and the three-dimensional "feel" (due to the reasons you mentioned) and there is something un-natural about live broadcasts - while they don't appear "film-like" they also do not to naturally "video-like" as well.
> 
> 
> But when Plasma (considered the best of the new flat screen technologies) is still advertised as coming close to a CRT..., well, that says it all.



Plasma was the best option until the advent of OLED which will supplant all other technologies in every single performance metric, except for useful lifespan. They still need to iron out the blue-rot issue, its getting better but not quite ready to best even Plasma in that one and only area.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *8086* /forum/post/18595975
> 
> 
> Plasma was the best option until the advent of OLED which will supplant all other technologies in every single performance metric, except for useful lifespan. They still need to iron out the blue-rot issue, its getting better but not quite ready to best even Plasma in that one and only area.



Usefull life span is a pretty important metric.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *8086* /forum/post/18595975
> 
> 
> Plasma was the best option until the advent of OLED which will supplant all other technologies in every single performance metric, except for useful lifespan. They still need to iron out the blue-rot issue, its getting better but not quite ready to best even Plasma in that one and only area.



With large-screen OLEDs still only in the development stage, it might be a bit premature to conclude it will be the leader in all aspects of video monitor technology. Even sites like "OLED" and "How It Works" aren't making that claim as of yet. And don't forget the same was said when Plasma, LCD and DSP were introduced (with the added proviso that CRT technology had become outdated).


For the vast majority of consumers, their experience with CRT was limited to standard definition 4x3 with their introduction to HD being a flat panel instead. Few have actually seen HD picture quality on a CRT and don't realize what they're missing. Instead, they are getting exactly as advertised -- a "flat" looking picture, sacrificing picture quality for size.


And for now, the 960 still reigns supreme. We just finished watching "Avitar" and even just on DVD (480i upconverted to 1080i) the picture was drop-dead gorgeous. When playing the same disc on our LCD (with upconversion set to 1080p) the picture was sharp and colorful but noticably lacked the impact that blew our minds on the "bulky and out-dated" CRT.


----------



## Nirvelli

Recently I hooked up our 960 to a 5.1 receiver, using the digital out on the back of the TV to watch broadcast HD with digital audio. Unfortunately, the receiver introduces a minor delay to the audio. I have not been able to find any sort of picture delay built into the TV. Is there any way to fix this without using a separate HD tuner box?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nirvelli* /forum/post/18597060
> 
> 
> Recently I hooked up our 960 to a 5.1 receiver, using the digital out on the back of the TV to watch broadcast HD with digital audio. Unfortunately, the receiver introduces a minor delay to the audio. I have not been able to find any sort of picture delay built into the TV. Is there any way to fix this without using a separate HD tuner box?



Check your receiver for you're probably not even getting 5.1 - the audio output from the 960 is 2.0 only. This is why most of us not having receivers with HDMI inputs/outputs have the audio sent directly from the box to the receiver.


----------



## TomGreen321




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/18596825
> 
> 
> With large-screen OLEDs still only in the development stage, it might be a bit premature to conclude it will be the leader in all aspects of video monitor technology. Even sites like "OLED" and "How It Works" aren't making that claim as of yet. And don't forget the same was said when Plasma, LCD and DSP were introduced (with the added proviso that CRT technology had become outdated).
> 
> 
> For the vast majority of consumers, their experience with CRT was limited to standard definition 4x3 with their introduction to HD being a flat panel instead. Few have actually seen HD picture quality on a CRT and don't realize what they're missing. Instead, they are getting exactly as advertised -- a "flat" looking picture, sacrificing picture quality for size.
> 
> 
> And for now, the 960 still reigns supreme. We just finished watching "Avitar" and even just on DVD (480i upconverted to 1080i) the picture was drop-dead gorgeous. When playing the same disc on our LCD (with upconversion set to 1080p) the picture was sharp and colorful but noticably lacked the impact that blew our minds on the "bulky and out-dated" CRT.



Which LCD this? For all we know it's some cheesy crap brand, or a really old model.


Fact is the small screen size really helps with the picture on these CRT's and any name brand from the last few years, when setup right can match or exceed the PQ from CRTs. I watched the Avatar bluray on my sony CRT and while it looked awesome, I have no doubt it would have looked so much more impressive on even a 4 series 50" Samsung plasma.


The uneven focus that affects pretty much all large screen Flat Tube sets means a lot of detail was probably lost as well.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TomGreen321* /forum/post/18612225
> 
> 
> Which LCD this? For all we know it's some cheesy crap brand, or a really old model.
> 
> 
> Fact is the small screen size really helps with the picture on these CRT's and any name brand from the last few years, when setup right can match or exceed the PQ from CRTs. I watched the Avatar bluray on my sony CRT and while it looked awesome, I have no doubt it would have looked so much more impressive on even a 4 series 50" Samsung plasma.
> 
> 
> The uneven focus that affects pretty much all large screen Flat Tube sets means a lot of detail was probably lost as well.



Hi Tom,


It happens to be a Samsung 32 inch manufactured last November, not a cheesy, crap brand and it has been properly tweeked.







Remember I didn't deny it provided an impressively sharp and colorful picture but added that it simply lacked the punch that made the same DVD appear drop-dead gorgeous on the 960 (and the LCD is actualy two inches smaller than the 960).


Added detail would do that to a picture.


Big screen HD monitors of course have great picture quality but they still lack certain features inherent in CRT technology that enables a well designed HD tube set to provide that extra element of detail which cannot be reproduced by the others. In addition, with its high black and contrast levels, line-doubling, super fine-pitch tube, etc., the 960 has a deeper, richer and more life-like picture with a three-dimensional feel that flat screens (along with all other tube sets) do not.


When criticism is limited to weight, bulkiness and the size of its screen...., well, that says a lot about why the 960 is still regarded as a reference after so many years.


----------



## Nirvelli




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/18598098
> 
> 
> Check your receiver for you're probably not even getting 5.1 - the audio output from the 960 is 2.0 only. This is why most of us not having receivers with HDMI inputs/outputs have the audio sent directly from the box to the receiver.



I'm not sure you understand the problem I'm having...


I am using the Digital Out to watch broadcast TV through an amplifier.

The problem I have is that there is a delay in the audio, and it seems there is no picture delay function built into the TV to allow me to correct for this.


My question is, I was wondering if there was something in the service menus (or maybe something I missed in the regular menus) that would allow me to apply a delay to the picture on the TV, and that is for the picture coming from the built-in ATSC tuner.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nirvelli* /forum/post/18620283
> 
> 
> I'm not sure you understand the problem I'm having...
> 
> 
> I am using the Digital Out to watch broadcast TV through an amplifier.
> 
> The problem I have is that there is a delay in the audio, and it seems there is no picture delay function built into the TV to allow me to correct for this.
> 
> 
> My question is, I was wondering if there was something in the service menus (or maybe something I missed in the regular menus) that would allow me to apply a delay to the picture on the TV, and that is for the picture coming from the built-in ATSC tuner.



Thanks for clarification and sorry you're still experiencing problems with audio/video synchronization.


Am sorry that we cannot offer any advice since we use the cable box with only it's optical out going to the receiver so all video is sent directly to the 960 via HDMI. Does the problem occur with the feed going directly into the 960 (without any connection to the receiver) and listening through the Sony's built-in speakers? Have read where switching problems (?) cause some audio/video receivers to be subject to audio lag.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nirvelli* /forum/post/18620283
> 
> 
> I'm not sure you understand the problem I'm having...
> 
> 
> I am using the Digital Out to watch broadcast TV through an amplifier.
> 
> The problem I have is that there is a delay in the audio, and it seems there is no picture delay function built into the TV to allow me to correct for this.
> 
> 
> My question is, I was wondering if there was something in the service menus (or maybe something I missed in the regular menus) that would allow me to apply a delay to the picture on the TV, and that is for the picture coming from the built-in ATSC tuner.



No, to my knowledge there is no adjustment on the '960 for video delay.


I'm surprised you have been able to notice the audio delay through your system. In all probability, it is due only a very small delay due to a digital processor in your audio amplifier (the audio needs to be sampled--delayed--in order to be digitized and processed). In all probability, it is a very small delay, most likely on the order of one field or frame (1/60th or 1/30th. second). Most people would not be able to notice this. In fact, it might even be beneficial on many programs. (see next paragraph)


I'm surprised no one seems to be upset--as I am--by the frequent and varying VIDEO delays seen on broadcast TV today. I notice this almost every day. And it is almost always the audio that is ahead of the video. This even appears often on network news programs. I thought this would clear up once the analog signals were turned off and the broadcast engineers could devote more attention to the digital channels. But I haven't seen much improvement yet. I know there are adjustable audio delay devices, but these are controlled manually. Apparently we will need to live with this problem a few more years before we see devices that synch audio and video automatically.



Mark


----------



## kstyv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/18282301
> 
> 
> I'd say the biggest difference is the lines of resolution. Not trying to be a jerk



I thought the 910 and the 960 had the same tube. How does the 960 have more lines?


----------



## Ennui




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kstyv* /forum/post/18671784
> 
> 
> I thought the 910 and the 960 had the same tube. How does the 960 have more lines?



According to the two manuals, both have the SFP picture tube. The 910 does not have a CableCARD slot, however.










I believe I read the 960 has 800 lines of horizontal resolution but this now appears on Sony's site:


>>>>>>>>>

The specification for horizontal lines of resolution, as it relates to televisions, is not standardized in the electronics industry. The procedure used by one manufacturer to determine this specification is most likely different than the procedure used by another company to provide this specification. Because manufacturers do not use the same procedure for measuring television lines of resolution, Sony does not provide this specification.


----------



## Wizziwig

Just curious if anyone found a user or service setting that reduces horizontal bleeding on these sets. It's the sort of problem that shows up on every CRT I've ever owned and even on most Plasma sets. It happens any time there is a high contrast image shown on a darker/gray background. You will notice a shadow-like horizontal band that stretches left to right of the same height as the high contrast object.


I don't have a camera near my TV but there is a good discussion of it in the plasma forum here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1083853 


Another good image of the effect here:











and here:


----------



## naisho

Hello everyone,


Since I bought my 960 (used) I haven't been able to pick up OTA HD channels. I used the scanning function from the system menu but after sitting for a few minutes no channels were detected. I've left it for the hour that the set suggests but still, no channels get saved, or apparently detected.


Looking through the manual hasn't helped me much on this, it just mentions that there is an HD antenna in the set.


Is there something I'm missing here? Do I need additional hardware or to 'enable' the antenna somehow?


Any help would be much appreciated.


----------



## RalphArch

You need an antenna. the antenna connects via the coax connector. Go to antennaweb.org to get recommendations for which antenna to get depending on your zip code and desired OTA stations


----------



## Ratman

To be a little more clearer...

Your TV has a built in HD (ATSC) "tuner", not a built in "antenna". You will need an antenna to receive signals to send to the tuner.


----------



## naisho

Thanks for the quick responses. Apparently for my area I should find a "Small Multidirectional Antenna"


I'll get looking, thanks again!


----------



## JA Fant

Agreed-


there are many HDTV antenna and HDTV DIY antenna forums out there that can provide you with valuable info...


----------



## rmsretire

A follow-up from a infrequent poster.


Since 2006 when Chad B. calibrated my 960, I have been extremely pleased. I have never had a service call or repair, which was the main concern way back then from all the posts here.


I have continued to swing by 2-3 stores ever so often looking for a better picture as technology advances, and none have come close to the clarity and color accuracy of this calibrated 960. (My HD sources are Verizon FIOS and OPPO 83 Blu-Ray)


Till now.


I will be keeping my 960 but it will be moved to the bedroom, just in case.










Replacing it in the main room will be a Sharp LC-40LE810UN. Hopefully, I can get Chad back to do his magic again.


There is a thread on the Sharp if anyone wants to check it out.


Is it 100% on par with the CRT? No, but the PQ comes as close as I have seen given the inherent differences in the two technologies, and trying to keep the price reasonable.



All IMHO of course.










Disclaimer:

I have no financial interests in either Sony, Sharp, or Verizon.


----------



## unclepauly

I will investigate but I have almost zero percent faith any LCD *ever* will come close. Like I said though I will look it up


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi RM,


Am sure you will be happy with your new Sharp but note there are still differences that distinguish CRT quality from that of LCD/LED even with both callibrated properly. I've found the advantage of LCD/LED technology is perfect geometry resulting in a slightly sharper picture, however, even with that slightly sharper picture, it masks a lot of small detail that the 960 brings out (i.e., skin pigmentations, clusters of sand and grass, minute carvings in wood, etc.). LCD/LEDs also have beautiful color but not as rich as the 960 due to its high performance contrast and black levels and super-fine pitch tube which is also responsible for its depth in dimension.


But keep in mind that even after all these years, the 960 is still considered reference grade and therefore shouldn't be used as a comparision to most others (no matter what the technology) and take away the pleasure and enjoyment one can get from them -- I also have a Samsung LCD for our other HT set-up and am very happy with it's performance. One reference-grade monitor is more than enough for my blood.


----------



## RalphArch

My 960 is in the basement; but I have a 36KD955xs in the family room which has very similar display properties.


Recently purchased a 1080p DLP projector (HC3800), and due to limitations in my theater room when I am using it I set up side-by-side with a 96 inch screen in the family room.


Big mistake. Other than being bigger, the Sony SFP trounces the Mitsubishi in quality and detail/sharpness (and of course inky blacks) when watching 1080i (HBO/Showtime etc). Neither is professionally calibrated, but I can only stand watching the HC3800 @ 1080p from a blu-ray. For any normal 1080i broadcast material the defects are too obvious to keep the SONY on without really diminishing the experience for the DLP


----------



## rmsretire




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/18744400
> 
> 
> Hi RM,
> 
> 
> Am sure you will be happy with your new Sharp but note there are still differences that distinguish CRT quality from that of LCD/LED even with both callibrated properly. I've found the advantage of LCD/LED technology is perfect geometry resulting in a slightly sharper picture, however, even with that slightly sharper picture, it masks a lot of small detail that the 960 brings out (i.e., skin pigmentations, clusters of sand and grass, minute carvings in wood, etc.). LCD/LEDs also have beautiful color but not as rich as the 960 due to its high performance contrast and black levels and super-fine pitch tube which is also responsible for its depth in dimension.
> 
> 
> But keep in mind that even after all these years, the 960 is still considered reference grade and therefore shouldn't be used as a comparision to most others (no matter what the technology) and take away the pleasure and enjoyment one can get from them -- I also have a Samsung LCD for our other HT set-up and am very happy with it's performance. One reference-grade monitor is more than enough for my blood.






Yes, no question about it, the 960 is reference quality. Yet, my point was till this Sharp showed up, I never looked twice at the new LCDs/Plasmas since there was no hint of coming close to the CRTs performance. Now there is, IMHO, and at a reasonable cost.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rmsretire* /forum/post/18746790
> 
> 
> Yes, no question about it, the 960 is reference quality. Yet, my point was till this Sharp showed up, I never looked twice at the new LCDs/Plasmas since there was no hint of coming close to the CRTs performance. Now there is, IMHO, and at a reasonable cost.



Yes, they have come a long way in picture quality. Again, the 960 is reference but the really good flat panels have enough to stand on their own. Enjoy!


----------



## doherrick

I have an excelent condition 34XBR906 for sale. Date of Manufacture: July 2004. I purchased it from a friend for $300 and will sell for the same price.

I can Email some pictures.


The set is near Richmond (Chester), VA, but It can be picked up in Cary, NC, sometime in July. May be able to deliver in Raleigh/Cary area if timing is right.


I will be moving to AZ soon and don't want to deal with moving a 200# TV.



doherrick


----------



## arthurking

It is just unfair to compare a 96 inch screen to a 36 inch CRT. With 7 times as much as area, any defects in 1080i programs will be magnified 7 times on HC3800.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RalphArch* /forum/post/18746526
> 
> 
> Big mistake. Other than being bigger, the Sony SFP trounces the Mitsubishi in quality and detail/sharpness (and of course inky blacks) when watching 1080i (HBO/Showtime etc). Neither is professionally calibrated, but I can only stand watching the HC3800 @ 1080p from a blu-ray. For any normal 1080i broadcast material the defects are too obvious to keep the SONY on without really diminishing the experience for the DLP


----------



## djswartz

Another addition to the list of available 34XBR960's


I have one with the matching stand in excellent condition located in Broward County, Florida.


----------



## homerging

I've been thinking of buying the local version of the 910/960 (the HR36) second hand but I'm concerned about a couple of things.


The first is flicker; I'd be using it in 1080i/50 mode so I was wondering whether the flicker would be similar to the levels from a standard definition TV at 50hz or if it would be worse? I previously had a Phillps CRT which would apparently use the 1080i/50 screenmode when fed a 576p signal and the flicker was the worst I've ever seen from a TV and quite unwatchable. Was what I experienced from the Phillips the norm from 1080i below 60hz? The broadcast system here is 50fps so the level of flicker from 1080i/60 is not relevant to me.


The second is burn-in. How prone to burn-in are these TVs; would they be darkend after 4 to 6 years' usage? Widescreen broadcasting only started here 3 years ago, so I'm concerned about whether these Sony Trinitron widescreen TVs would have a darkened square in the middle where the 4:3 picture goes.

The decade plus years old Panasonics I have now both have to have their brightness turned up to see the image because of burn it.


Thanks


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *homerging* /forum/post/18828309
> 
> 
> I've been thinking of buying the local version of the 910/960 (the HR36) second hand but I'm concerned about a couple of things.
> 
> 
> The first is flicker; I'd be using it in 1080i/50 mode so I was wondering whether the flicker would be similar to the levels from a standard definition TV at 50hz or if it would be worse? I previously had a Phillps CRT which would apparently use the 1080i/50 screenmode when fed a 576p signal and the flicker was the worst I've ever seen from a TV and quite unwatchable. Was what I experienced from the Phillips the norm from 1080i below 60hz? The broadcast system here is 50fps so the level of flicker from 1080i/60 is not relevant to me.
> 
> 
> The second is burn-in. How prone to burn-in are these TVs; would they be darkend after 4 to 6 years' usage? Widescreen broadcasting only started here 3 years ago, so I'm concerned about whether these Sony Trinitron widescreen TVs would have a darkened square in the middle where the 4:3 picture goes.
> 
> The decade plus years old Panasonics I have now both have to have their brightness turned up to see the image because of burn it.
> 
> 
> Thanks



I am sensitive to flicker and don't notice it on this tv. I have logged tons of hours of gaming with my PS3 and have yet to see any signs of burn in. To burn an image in to the screen, you would have to leave a static image on the screen for two days or more. Any time you start to see burn (i have yet to), it can easily be remedied (as long as its in the early stages) by playing static or snow on the screen for many hours or a day.


My particular example of a xbr960 and the others I have seen is pretty good at creating a fairly uniform image across the screen.


----------



## homerging

That's encouraging. But doesn't the North American PS3 output gameplay via 1080i/60? Supposedly flicker is somewhat less visible at 60hz than at 50hz; so 1080i/50 is my concern as that's what I'd be using (50hz DVB area).


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *homerging* /forum/post/18831196
> 
> 
> That's encouraging. But doesn't the North American PS3 output gameplay via 1080i/60? Supposedly flicker is somewhat less visible at 60hz than at 50hz; so 1080i/50 is my concern as that's what I'd be using (50hz DVB area).



Yes, 60hz is faster than 50hz; hence you will see less flicker. The North American versions of the PS3 use 60hz 1080i, 60hz 720p, 60hz 480i & 480p.


----------



## PathofNeo

Howdy all.


I'm buying my 2nd 34XBR960 this Monday, after my 1st one's power supply died and decided to sell it as it was. I've had the Pioneer 5020 Kuro for a couple years now, but I really miss the Sony. I remember it having a superior picture, and I find having that large a screen after awhile gives me a headache (I like sitting close). So I'm glad I was able to find another one locally but need a few questions answered if possible and not too much trouble.


It's been awhile and I can't remember the settings I used for my 1st set. I remember someone (such as D-Nice on the plasma boards) posting reference settings in this thread. I used these settings for my 1st 34XBR960 and it was phenominal. Can someone link or repost the reference settings for this set? I realize that all sets are different, but there has to be a universal gold standard that I could go by. I want accuracy!


Also, I remember going into the service menu and adjusting the red push. I think I changed 4 settings and eliminated the red push. I did the same for sharpness in the service menu, adjusting something to have an extremely sharp (yet not artificial look). I never adjusted geometry because I didn't feel it was necessary (never did it before so didn't know how anyway).


I'm trying to find the sheet with instructions on service menu tweaks but having a hard time in this huge thread.


Brings me to another point I remember.. component seemed to give me a sharper picture than hdmi. Maybe sets vary but this shouldn't be true no? I remember plugging up my Toshiba dvd player via component, and with no upscaling the picture was unreal. Well mastered dvds looked hd. Then I ordered an Oppo dvd player and hooked up via HDMI it just fell apart. It was okay but way too soft a picture. Could this be because I was upscaling and not setting it to 480i/p?


It has me worried since I have a few things with HDMI (WD TV Live player, PS3) and hoping to get the same clean picture with an HDMI switch to free up the components. I saw the post for the hdmi switch at monoprice and already have that ordered.


Sorry if this seems like too many questions.. I'm excited about this tv come Monday.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PathofNeo* /forum/post/18886223
> 
> 
> It's been awhile and I can't remember the settings I used for my 1st set. I remember someone (such as D-Nice on the plasma boards) posting reference settings in this thread.



Digital settings for digital sets can be posted and shared this way, and the results should be guaranteed identical from set to set.


Unfortunately, not so with analog sets, as you know.




> Quote:
> I used these settings for my 1st 34XBR960 and it was phenomenal.



While there are some rule-of-thumb changes that everybody makes (e.g. the infamous four "red push" adjustments), the actual values used still may vary slightly depending on your tastes and preferences. What's important is to know how to tweak, and then what to tweak, and then tweak until you're satisfied... which no doubt is going to yield different settings values than someone else (with a different analog XBR960 to deal with).




> Quote:
> Can someone link or repost the reference settings for this set? I realize that all sets are different, but there has to be a universal gold standard that I could go by. I want accuracy!



Non-sequitor. No such thing as "universal gold standard" when dealing with picture tubes, magnet jobs, etc.


Plus, everybody's viewing habits and viewing rooms are different, so what might work for me (in my black room) and look gorgeous might be hideously not bright enough for you (in your sunny day room). Sure, that's why "presets" are useful, but beyond that trying to use somebody else's values can only be some place you might start from... but very likely will not end up there.




> Quote:
> Also, I remember going into the service menu and adjusting the red push. I think I changed 4 settings and eliminated the red push.



Yes, this is in the 2170P-4 group:


VITAL » 7 RYR 0-15 13 (8)

VITAL » 8 RYB 0-15 15 (9)

VITAL » 9 GYR 0-15 5 (9)

VITAL » 10 GYB 0-15 4 (6)


But my values (13, 15, 5, 4) are a bit different than what others use, because of my user settings for color temp, brightness, etc. Nevertheless, these values ABSOLUTELY need to be adjusted from the factory defaults of (8,9,9,6), in the direction show by my numbers. You will definitely find a bit of discussion on the "correct" values for your tastes, but I attribute those differences to the offsetting user menu adjustments which also contribute to how red and skin tone looks onscreen.




> Quote:
> I did the same for sharpness in the service menu, adjusting something to have an extremely sharp (yet not artificial look). I never adjusted geometry because I didn't feel it was necessary (never did it before so didn't know how anyway).



See... now to each his own.


For me, I've never adjusted sharpness in the service menu. But I've tweaked the hell out of geometry, because I want straight lines vertically and horizontally, and right-angle corners, and no curvature or bowing... at least as best as I can do it. Couple geometry tweaking with convergence adjustments, and now you're talking for getting a spot-on "perfect" picture (especially when the XBR960 is also notorious for curvature along the bottom and top edge of the screen... e.g. where sports crawls and logos go).




> Quote:
> I'm trying to find the sheet with instructions on service menu tweaks but having a hard time in this huge thread.



Well, you can start at this post of mine in this thread from back in late March ... which has my own Excel spreadsheet attached providing my own service menu and user menu settings.


But the real serious discussion on Service Menu adjustments is over in the "Sony Service Menu" thread , which goes on in the many thousands of post and has a large number of "reference PDF's" of settings. That's the really serious tweaker's thread.


Mostly, my spreadsheet gives you a 100% complete workbook of all settings, and you can then use it to "write down" your current settings so that if you change something or break something you can always have this spreadsheet to refer to when reverting things back to the way they used to be.


But aside from that, you may find that my numbers just don't work for your XBR960. For example, I've had a magnet job on my picture tube (to eliminate as best as possible the factory-provided bowing and curvature which can only be corrected by magnets and not by service menu adjustments, although they can help). Consequently, my geometry adjustments marry to the magnet job on my XBR960... which is not on your set.


Nevertheless, having such an Excel spreadsheet is an excellent resource through which to "write down" your current settings, and also record your final adjusted tweaks, if for nothing else.




> Quote:
> Brings me to another point I remember.. component seemed to give me a sharper picture than hdmi. Maybe sets vary but this shouldn't be true no?



Depends on source somewhat, but I used to feel the same way. I, too, used component as my only connection method from my HD sources (actually coming through a Zektor component video switcher).


But with some Motorola upgrades to the DVRs distributed by TWC here in LA, I've reverted to HDMI for all HD sources. I use a Yamaha AVR as my HDMI and audio switcher now, and it sure looks like I have more "punch" from HDMI on my XBR960 than I did when using component video.


Granted, there's not a whole lot of difference, but I do believe I've reversed my position now and that HDMI is clearly the winner.




> Quote:
> I remember plugging up my Toshiba dvd player via component, and with no upscaling the picture was unreal. Well mastered dvds looked hd. Then I ordered an Oppo dvd player and hooked up via HDMI it just fell apart. It was okay but way too soft a picture. Could this be because I was upscaling and not setting it to 480i/p?



Very interesting subject.


I too have an Oppo player, and although I don't really watch many DVDs (or BluRay's for that matter) I, too, noticed that there was something not quite right about the picture when letting the Oppo do up-conversion of 480p to 1080i, even though others touted this as "manna from heaven".


Personally, I like what the XBR960 does with "native" resolution, no matter what you ship it. Whether it's DRC (i.e. making progressive out of interlaced), or handling 720p native (at least letting the TV do post-processing for optimization to native display resolution, rather than up-converting at the source device)... I just feel the XBR960 does the better job. So I've got my Oppo set to "source direct", which delivers standard SD DVDs at 480p (i.e. NOT up-converted to 1080i), and HD BluRays at 1080i.


To each his own.




> Quote:
> It has me worried since I have a few things with HDMI (WD TV Live player, PS3) and hoping to get the same clean picture with an HDMI switch to free up the components. I saw the post for the hdmi switch at monoprice and already have that ordered.



I felt the $500 invested in my Yamaha RX-V863 was the most appropriate solution to all of my requirements. It allows me to configure all A/V sources as I want, providing both component (if I want) and HDMI out to the XBR960 and my audio system. It also provides discrete analog audio output channels, which I require for my advanced heaphone equipment (Smyth SVS Realiser A8).


You might consider going with an AVR as your "HDMI switcher".




> Quote:
> Sorry if this seems like too many questions.. I'm excited about this tv come Monday.



Not at all. Welcome back home.


----------



## PathofNeo

That's a lot of info there DSperber. Thanks!


I dunno what I was thinking since analog tvs are going to be different. I guess I just need a general recommendation with settings to see if I'll be in the same ballpark after I do my best tinkering with it.


Speaking of that, I've never actually calibrated a tv before and it will probably be awhile before I have a professional job due to lack of funds atm. But I'd like to know the best dvd/blu-ray calibration disc that I can use with no equipment. Of course things like white balance and colors are never going to be accurate without equipment, but what's the most basic and easy to understand disc (like avia) for me to get to tinker with? I can be happy with just the correct brightness, contrast, color, sharpness, and things like that without getting too involved.


Thank you very much for the spreadsheet! This is exactly what I did with my original 34XBR960 to fix the red push. Geometry and convergence is another beast I would like to tackle. On my 1st set, to my eye it no geometry problems. The focus was sharp on the entire screen with no overscan. Then again, what do I know? I don't know what to look for here and odds are this set I receive in a couple days may need fixing. Is there a post you can link me to with simple instructions to adjusting geometry..and how to do it (best I can) with no equipment?


That Yamaha RX-V863 looks really good. I'm definitely going this route. I've never owned a high end (or any good for that matter) AVR. I assume you can run your video at 480i/p through the AVR and let the tv do the scaling (bypassing the AVR's 1080p upconversion) right?


You've given me a lot of food for thought. I will post my initial impressions later this week along with pictures of my setup. The 34XBR960 is up there with the greatest creations of mankind IMO. lol


----------



## PathofNeo

Does it make a difference what framerate I set my WD TV Liver player to on this tv? On my Pioneer plasma, I set it at 1080p and 24p for Blu-ray rips and 60p for everything else.


So what would be the ideal resolution and framerate for 24 and 30fps material for the 34XBR960? I'm guessing either 720p or 1080i @ 60p for everything.


But this has me thinking. Since this tv has such an outstanding upscaler, I wonder if setting it to either 480i or 480p would be the best solution for dvds in ISO (I back up all my dvds)?


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PathofNeo* /forum/post/18892329
> 
> 
> Does it make a difference what framerate I set my WD TV Liver player to on this tv? On my Pioneer plasma, I set it at 1080p and 24p for Blu-ray rips and 60p for everything else.
> 
> 
> So what would be the ideal resolution and framerate for 24 and 30fps material for the 34XBR960? I'm guessing either 720p or 1080i @ 60p for everything.
> 
> 
> But this has me thinking. Since this tv has such an outstanding upscaler, I wonder if setting it to either 480i or 480p would be the best solution for dvds in ISO (I back up all my dvds)?



Since the XBR960 can display the most common picture formats in their native resolution, Your best bet is to keep all video scaling off when using any HD CRT. The XBR it's self does not have a "scaler" but a de-interlacer for lower SD resolutions.


Scalers are intended and were invented because fixed resolution matrix display technologies like Plasma, LCD, DLP, LcOS are not true multi-scan devices like a CRT. Matrix Displays operate at the same continuous output resolution regardless of resolution of the input. If you have a 1080 Plasma, it will be 1080, even when you feed it a 480i signal. In that scenario, you would need to use a scaler to fill in the remaining unused pixels.


To answer your question, The XBR accepts 60hz signals and set your DVD player to 480p then leave it. For Blu-Ray, you can flip flop between 720p and 1080i; it's up to you to decide which you like best. I have used both and each has it's own advantages. The whole point to using a CRT is to watch videos in their native resolution in their full analog color glory with out the use of scalers which add noise to the picture.


----------



## PathofNeo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *8086* /forum/post/18892424
> 
> 
> The whole point to using a CRT is to watch videos in their native resolution in their full analog color glory with out the use of scalers which add noise to the picture.



Thanks. This helps me out a lot. I kinda figured this much, but since I've been stuck on flat panels the past few years I really need to get back in the swing of CRTs. I remember having my dvd player at 480p with my original 34XBR960 having the most gorgeous picture.


But one thing I'm still stumped on..


You say the point to using a CRT is to watch videos in their native resolution. Well, Blu-ray is 1920x1080 and the 34XBR960 doesn't exactly display this natively. So my strange question to you is would it be safe to say that 720p playing back on this tv with my media player set to 720p be superior (since it can display this resolution) versus a 1080p clip set to any resolution (since it would have to down-scale)?


I have no problem with this because I've watched 720p movies/tv shows/etc on my pc monitor for years now and can hardly tell the difference (other than excessive cpu usage). Or would 1080p clearly be the way to go (if this is an option)?


Thanks again 8086 for your feedback!


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Path,


Great to hear you're coming back to the fold.


Proper geometry and overscan is definately a requirement in order to get the sharpest picture quality possible. Use a DVD set-up disc that includes a cross-hatch pattern and go to the Sony Service Code forum where you can find the portion of the service manual that provides the steps in which to follow (there are additional corner adjustments that could be found in the spreadsheets provided).


Try to set the overscan as close to zero percent as possible and then confirm it is not too close by surfing through broadcasts and a few DVDs, looking for any bit of extended black on any side and especially a corner (if so, then slightly increase the horizontal and vertical size and check to see if these changes necessitate additional geometric adjustments.


The factory technicians did a terrible job adjusting the overscan on our set and not only was information cut off on all four sides but the picture wasn't as sharp as it could have been since being stretched too much caused a decrease in resolution. I was amazed at how crisper the picture looked when I properly adjusted the settings for the horizontal and vertical sizes.


Hope this helps.


Joe


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PathofNeo* /forum/post/18892871
> 
> 
> Thanks. This helps me out a lot. I kinda figured this much, but since I've been stuck on flat panels the past few years I really need to get back in the swing of CRTs. I remember having my dvd player at 480p with my original 34XBR960 having the most gorgeous picture.
> 
> 
> But one thing I'm still stumped on..
> 
> 
> You say the point to using a CRT is to watch videos in their native resolution. Well, Blu-ray is 1920x1080 and the 34XBR960 doesn't exactly display this natively. So my strange question to you is would it be safe to say that 720p playing back on this tv with my media player set to 720p be superior (since it can display this resolution) versus a 1080p clip set to any resolution (since it would have to down-scale)?
> 
> 
> I have no problem with this because I've watched 720p movies/tv shows/etc on my pc monitor for years now and can hardly tell the difference (other than excessive cpu usage). Or would 1080p clearly be the way to go (if this is an option)?
> 
> 
> Thanks again 8086 for your feedback!





The XBR960 is a Progressive Multi-Scan Display and it does indeed display 1080i, 720p, 480i, 480p nativly. Similar to your old computer CRT, when a HD signal is detected, the TV changes its resolution automatically. 1080p is not an option on the XBR960 since 1080p was to debut about 1yr after the 960's release. If sony hadn't discontinued CRT production, we would most likely have an XBR CRT (XBR990???) that could do 1080 in a progressive format; my Sony Premiere Pro GDM-FW900 can do 1080p with out a hitch.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *8086* /forum/post/18893071
> 
> 
> The XBR960 is a Progressive Multi-Scan Display and it does indeed display 1080i, 720p, 480i, 480p nativly. Similar to your old computer CRT, when a HD signal is detected, the TV changes its resolution automatically. .....



I believe that is incorrect. It is my understanding that the xbr960 and its predecessors with DA4 chassis have a fixed scan rate of 1080i. All other input resolutions are up/down converted to this fixed scan rate by the MID or DRC processors.


----------



## PathofNeo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/18896014
> 
> 
> I believe that is incorrect. It is my understanding that the xbr960 and its predecessors with DA4 chassis have a fixed scan rate of 1080i. All other input resolutions are up/down converted to this fixed scan rate by the MID or DRC processors.



So back to my original question..


If I have a 720p tv show, is it best to set my media player to 720p or 1080i? By your logic I assume it is best to set to 1080i for all HD programs.


----------



## PathofNeo

I received the tv today. It is the 34XBR960 (without the N) and date of manufacture is July 2004. Everything looks good so far. I've tested a few dvds and thus far it's equally as impressive as the one I had before. Already besting my Pioneer even uncalibrated.


The picture seems to fill the screen with no noticeable geometry problems. But I probably won't know until I use a test pattern. To my eye it's superb for what little time I've spent with it and in near mint condition. If your wondering I got it off Craigslist for $300. Best Christmas-in-July present ever!


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/18896014
> 
> 
> I believe that is incorrect. It is my understanding that the xbr960 and its predecessors with DA4 chassis have a fixed scan rate of 1080i. All other input resolutions are up/down converted to this fixed scan rate by the MID or DRC processors.



That sounds very incorrect. DRC is a De-interlacer.


Do you have a Link???


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PathofNeo* /forum/post/18896327
> 
> 
> So back to my original question..
> 
> 
> If I have a 720p tv show, is it best to set my media player to 720p or 1080i? By your logic I assume it is best to set to 1080i for all HD programs.



It would be a case of which component converts 720p to 1080i better, the media player or the tv. The MID processor in the sony crts have a very good reputation. I would suggest trying both.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *8086* /forum/post/18896373
> 
> 
> That sounds very incorrect. DRC is a De-interlacer.
> 
> 
> Do you have a Link???


Yes, the DRC (Digital Reality Creation) is basically a de-interlacer for 480i inputs which are upconverted to 480p. 480p is then upconverted by the MID (Multi Image Driver) to 1080i for display.


The schematic of the set clearly indicates that it has a fixed scan rate in that it has a fixed horizontal 33.75KHz oscillator in the horizontal deflection circuit.


I don't have a link but can also quote a Sony DA4 Theory of Operation Training Manual.


"All video processing is performed on the B-board (DRC and MID processing).

The DRC circuit will double the horizontal frequency for input signals with 15.75KHz (NTSC) horizontal inputs. The MID circuit will up-convert the horizontal frequency of the input signal to 33.75KHz, which is the scan rate of the DA-4 and DA-4X chassis. Table 5-2 shows the signal standard and its associate horizontal frequency.


Table 5-2 - Input Signal Standard and Horizontal Frequency

Input Signal Horizontal Frequency

Standard NTSC 480i 15.534KHz

High Resolution 480p 31.5KHz

High Resolution 720p 45KHz

High Resolution 1080i 33.75KHz


The following is a description of the signal flow for each standard listed in Table 5-2:

· 15.734KHz input: DRC circuit up-converts to 31.5KHz and MID circuit up-converters to 33.75KHz

· 31.5KHz input: MID circuit up-converts to 33.75KHz

· 33.75KHz input: XBR, HV pass through MID; HS bypass MID circuit

· 45KHz input: MID circuit down-converts to 33.75KHz


The difference between this set and a conventional set is the horizontal frequency, which is 33.75KHz as opposed to 15.75KHz scan rate in the conventional set. The 33.75Khz scan rate is considered a high definition horizontal scan rate."


----------



## PathofNeo

Service menu tweaks questions..


How do I select different resolutions? For example I'm in the 2170P-4 group and want to change items 7-10 to reduce the 'red push'. By default you can change the 1080i setting, so how do I go to 720p, 480p, etc?


For Gamma I changed GAMR, GAMG, and GAMB to 1. Isn't this supposed to get me near 2.2? I assume I don't need to change GAMM, GAMS, or BLK? What do they do anyway? It sounds like one of those may reduce 'black crush'. I'm detecting black crush on my set so just wondering if any of those figures (or any other) may improve shadow detail a little? In fact I know I am because the same scenes on the Pioneer are showing detail whereas the Sony is black (but I don't want to lose its great black level, the reason I bought the tv in the first place).


The only other concern is the red push. Hopefully after someone tells me

how to navigate the different resolutions so I can change those 4 values things will be okay. Right now ppl look sunburnt. Everything else looks superb, blacks unbeleivable, but yes ppl with pale white skin look like their cookin'.


Right now my settings are...


Mode - Pro

Picture - 35 (by eye when on 36 things 'pop' and 'brighten')

Brightness - 32 (by eye on 33 in dark room shows light)

Color - 27 (skin tones looks better, need to adjust 2170P-4)

Hue - 0

Sharpness - Min

Color Temp - Warm (used to this with the Kuro)

ClearEdge - Low (does this really add noise?)

Color Axis - Monitor


Thinking of making my next movie purchase be THX certified so I can use that for basic stuff like brightness and color (with the glasses). I don't want to get too involved, just need to get the main things correct and hopefully get rid of the sunburnt skins.


Oh and yes.. much like my 1st 34XBR960.. Component is BY FAR AND AWAY sharper than HDMI. Already tested with all equipment. PS3, Media player, Xbox 360, DVD player, etc and on every device the HDMI always resulted in a softer picture. I'm not trying to say I like artificial enhancement.. I mean so soft to the point of distraction. With component the colors seem richer, whole picture sharper, and overall cleaner. Of course all IMO.


I'm going to have to figure a way to use more components since 2 isn't gonna cut it. I'm skipping the single HDMI on this one.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PathofNeo* /forum/post/18899852
> 
> 
> Service menu tweaks questions..
> 
> 
> How do I select different resolutions? For example I'm in the 2170P-4 group and want to change items 7-10 to reduce the 'red push'. By default you can change the 1080i setting, so how do I go to 720p, 480p, etc?...........The only other concern is the red push. Hopefully after someone tells me
> 
> how to navigate the different resolutions so I can change those 4 values things will be okay. Right now ppl look sunburnt. Everything else looks superb, blacks unbeleivable, but yes ppl with pale white skin look like their cookin'.......



I haven't been into the service menu in a while, but based upon a quick refresher reading of the service manual parameter list, here is my take.


2170P-4 items 7-12 are merely the data points, (picture, brightness, color, etc.) adjusted in the *User* Setup. You can easily validate this by making slider adjustments in the *User* menu and then re-enter the service menu to check if the data has changed. These items are only picture mode specific, vivid, standard, etc. Not resolution specific.


2170P-4 items 2-3 & 13-16 are generally used to align the color decoder (fixes red push). 2 & 3 to set blue saturation and hue and then 13-16 to set red & green saturation and hue. 2&3 are input format specific, 480i, component, hdmi & atsc(tuner). 13-16 are axis specific, normal & special. BTW, the color decoder is most easily aligned using an appropriate test pattern.


I believe you must be viewing the appropriate format prior to entering the service menu to adjust the given parameters.


----------



## PathofNeo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/18900870
> 
> 
> I believe you must be viewing the appropriate format prior to entering the service menu to adjust the given parameters.



Thank you. That's the answer I was looking for.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PathofNeo* /forum/post/18901118
> 
> 
> Thank you. That's the answer I was looking for.



You're welcome. Although, the preceding two paragraphs was the actual meat of my post.


----------



## Brad Smith

Hey everyone,


So the time has come... I'm about to move and I've decided I need to get rid of my XBR960. What's everyone's recommendation of how to sell it? I'm in NYC at the moment and have less than two weeks to find a buyer.


----------



## unclepauly

The old standby's... craigslist n ebay


----------



## rudebeggar

Just got lucky, found a 960 on Craigs list with the stand for 150 dollars. My back still hurts...has a little more bowing in it than the 970 that I have. I am going to take a stab at the service menu. Any Help or Ideas would be appreciated. Or if there is a good tech in the Boston area.


----------



## nx211

I was curious how you would rate the 960 vs. the 970.


Don't you feel the 960 is a bit too dark vs. the 970?


I've seen both together, no doubt the 960 has the edge in sharpness, but I just can't seem to get over the darkness/anti-glare coating of the 960.


----------



## rudebeggar

right now i like the 970 better. the picture is sharper and the bowing is much less. until i can get the bowing fixed and have the set worked on ,i really can't give a good opinion. i am one of those pathetic people that only see the flaws in the picture so right now the bowing is driving me crazy.I will give a better opinion after i get both sets professionally worked on if possible.


----------



## nx211

The 960 should be sharper than the 970, it's not dramatic but it should be noticeable. Have you checked the sharpness setting for the line inputs in use? For the XBR models, you have to adjust the picture settings for each line input.


As for the bowing, I've learned to live with the imperfections. I've owned Sony Aperture Grill TV sets for close to 30 years now, and I've never seen one that was perfect. However, it's great to finally have a digital service menu. It's a pretty significant advancement in tube technology, over the pure analog days. Those SM adjustments can do wonders to the geometry. My two 970's are not perfect, but there pretty good compared to my older 27" analog tubes. I'll eventually get into the SM of my 970's to do some tweaking myself, but there fine for now.


----------



## itachi183

I think I might buy this TV, I've always used CRT for TVs but really want to upgrade to an HDTV (mostly for playing videos from my computer on my TV). I currently have 19" CRT


I got some questions though: Can I connect my HTPC(computer) to this TV through HDMI cables, and set the res at 480P and play 480P content? And could I then also change it to 720P resolution and play 1280x720p content? I heard in 1080i some ppl notice flickering or something



Also another quick question, does this TV display subs well? I mean like is there any distortion in text across the bottom of the screen? I know LCDs probably would be better at displaying subs due to even geometry.


last question:


Has LCD technology caught up to CRTs yet? I don't really feel like lifting 200 pounds (very troublesome for real I got a bad back) But these TVs are really great and selling cheap. Also I think their the best SD playback in all HD tvs from what I read, and I have alot of SD content I would like to play.


----------



## bbbobbb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *itachi183* /forum/post/18981630
> 
> 
> I think I might buy this TV, I've always used CRT for TVs but really want to upgrade to an HDTV (mostly for playing videos from my computer on my TV). I currently have 19" CRT
> 
> 
> I got some questions though: Can I connect my HTPC(computer) to this TV through HDMI cables, and set the res at 480P and play 480P content? And could I then also change it to 720P resolution and play 1280x720p content? I heard in 1080i some ppl notice flickering or something
> 
> 
> 
> Also another quick question, does this TV display subs well? I mean like is there any distortion in text across the bottom of the screen? I know LCDs probably would be better at displaying subs due to even geometry.
> 
> 
> last question:
> 
> 
> Has LCD technology caught up to CRTs yet? I don't really feel like lifting 200 pounds (very troublesome for real I got a bad back) But these TVs are really great and selling cheap. Also I think their the best SD playback in all HD tvs from what I read, and I have alot of SD content I would like to play.



I can't answer many of your questions but I can tell you that after 4 years I think my 34XBR960 still has a superb picture and better than almost every LCD I have seen. I have seen some plasmas that are better...


The other thing I can tell you is that it is almost certain that you CANNOT move this TV by yourself. It is definitely a 2 person job.


----------



## unclepauly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *itachi183* /forum/post/18981630
> 
> 
> I think I might buy this TV, I've always used CRT for TVs but really want to upgrade to an HDTV (mostly for playing videos from my computer on my TV). I currently have 19" CRT
> 
> 
> I got some questions though: Can I connect my HTPC(computer) to this TV through HDMI cables, and set the res at 480P and play 480P content? And could I then also change it to 720P resolution and play 1280x720p content? I heard in 1080i some ppl notice flickering or something
> 
> 
> 
> Also another quick question, does this TV display subs well? I mean like is there any distortion in text across the bottom of the screen? I know LCDs probably would be better at displaying subs due to even geometry.
> 
> 
> last question:
> 
> 
> Has LCD technology caught up to CRTs yet? I don't really feel like lifting 200 pounds (very troublesome for real I got a bad back) But these TVs are really great and selling cheap. Also I think their the best SD playback in all HD tvs from what I read, and I have alot of SD content I would like to play.



Why don't you just get the 960's cousin? The FW900.. the one that was built for PC's? It's a beast of a monitor I'm on one right now it only weighs 100 lbs. and text is almost as sharp as LCD but the color contrast everything else is better except for maybe geometry but who cares about that


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Itachi,


Despite advances in LCD, LED, DLP and Plasma, the 960's CRT technology still provides the widest black and contrast level ranges available which in turns provides the most detail, color accuracy and depth perception available. Small facial blemishes are quite noticable on the 960 that are masked on our other set. In addition, objects do not appear on top of each other like they do with flat screen technologies which also causes a more true to life effect.


And agree, don't try lifting the 960 by yourself - even Batman would need to ask Robin for help with this one.


----------



## rudebeggar

After spending some time in the service menu with a crosshatch pattern and then with the TV picture on with an HD and then a standard def channel. Lots of tweaking and lots of disgruntled sounds coming from the wife, but I like where I am and I am resigned to the fact that perfection is not possible. I love my 960 as much as my 970. I still havent hooked up Bluray to them, I will leave the bluray hooked up to my 67' Samsung LED DLP which is friggin' awesome and if you can get your hans on one ,I highly recommend HL67A750 or the 61"


----------



## nx211

My first computer display was a 17", Sony based aperture grill monitor. It didn't have perfect geometry, but it wasn't all that bad either. I loved it for its bright color rendition, vs. the more conventional shadow mask technology based monitors. But even with its basic digital screen adjustments, like for convergence issues, trying to correct for a convergence issue on one part of the screen often caused a convergence issue on the opposite side of the display. And shooting for middle ground leaves you with a less than perfect picture. So having to settle for and be happy with, something less than perfect is really the only thing one can do.


However now having gotten used to an LCD computer display for the last 6+ years, with its perfect geometry, I would never go back to a CRT based computer display for normal every day web surfing. But for a living room display watching movies, documentaries and news, as long as there aren't that many horizontal and vertical lines, I can get by with CRT based geometry issues, as I enjoy there perfect color renderings.



nx211


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi Rudebegger,


Though we didn't have a technician come over to check out the magnets, we were also able to get the overall geometry surprisingly accurate for a CRT by use of an external cross-hatch pattern.


Equally important as geometry is a properly adjusted overscan. This goes beyond the question of edge information. The tightest achievable overscan also insures the greatest amount of resolution (if that is the proper word) available. No matter how accurate the focus-related service settings are, the further off from the safety area the more the picture is "stretched", creating a zoom-like effect that decreases sharpness. With the 960's advanced circuitry and super fine-pitch tube the improvement is quite noticable, even if the overscan is just slightly off.


So along with the geometry, don't forget to adjust the overscan.


And I can relate to your experience quite well - while adjusting the picture it obviously had to appear distorted at times and my better half was also letting me know how she thought I was ruining a beautiful HD set.


----------



## 8086

For the longest time, I have been searching for a TV stand for my XBR960. I'd be happy with either the factory stand or a BDI AXIS. If anyone has such a stand, please let me know and if possible work out a deal.


For the rest of you in the same situation needing a stand or those with an XBR960 who are considering trading it in for something wall mountable, I have stumbled upon this contraption. Though It's not what I am looking for, I suspect it would work if I decide to give up on my quest for a floor stand.


I suppose that when the day comes and your XBR960 dies and you do go plasma, this stand is strong enough to wall mount a few of your mulitichannel amplifiers and other av equipment or use it to hold your center channel speaker mounted above the PDP.



_The KD-34XBR960 weighs 200 pounds, 39 inches wide (side to side), about 24 in high, and about 23-24 in deep. My very long surveyors tape measure wasn't the most precise tool for small scale measurements.
_


----------



## rudebeggar

is there a gold standard to set my xbr 960 to in the service menu or are all sets different.if there are some definite do's and dont's , I would appreciate any input...thanx


----------



## rudebeggar

WTF !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! it was good while it lasted. wont turn on..i am getting 7 blinks from the red light


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudebeggar* /forum/post/18994506
> 
> 
> WTF !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! it was good while it lasted. wont turn on..i am getting 7 blinks from the red light



Try leaving the set unplugged for a minimum of five minutes. That could do the trick. Also, have it plugged directly into the wall and not via a standard surge protector - a Sony service representative advised me that when powered on, the automatic degausser needs full power to operate properly of which it does not get through such devices.


So sorry you're encountering problems a week after acquiring the set. Hope this works out.


----------



## rudebeggar

found this article on another site. let me know if I should try it or replace the DZ board entirely or call a service tech.


I picked up a dead KD-34XBR960 from a neighbor after reading aboutpossible solutions to the 7 blinking light code. I replaced the twoMCZ3001DB IC,s on the DZ board and the set is working again. Other thanmanhandling the monster into my garage, the most challenging part ofthe process was finding the "levers" to release the board chassis.These are not levers in the sense that I imagined and are more likeplastic tabs that are lifted up to allow the chassis to slide out. Ionly disconnected two of the speaker connections and worked on the DZboard in place. I did clip out a portion of the chassis bottom to getaccess to the IC pins. I removed the original IC's (one or both ofwhich was defective I presume), soldered in sockets, and plugged in thechips. The information here at Agoraquest was invaluable and would nothave even picked up the beast if I hadn't found the guidance on thissite. Thanks again to all the posters. Now I just have to find a spacefor my $15 TV.


Read more: http://www.agoraquest.com/viewtopic....#ixzz0vUhyVXhs


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudebeggar* /forum/post/18994053
> 
> 
> is there a gold standard to set my xbr 960 to in the service menu or are all sets different.if there are some definite do's and dont's , I would appreciate any input...thanx



No gold standard, each set is different. This thread has some basic setting in it to get you started. Check out KenTech's thread on using the service menu. There is a ton of great info in that one.


----------



## rudebeggar

Just orderd the two MCZ3001DB IC,s from sony if this works then I still think it was a good buy. Time to get out the soldering gun and say a little prayer. the whole DZ board was 195.00 the IC's were 20 bucks so I will take a stab at it. 150 for the TV w/ stand 75.00 for the parts w/next day shipping.so if this works I am into it for 225.00. I am using the stand for the 970 so at least something is working from that deal for now.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudebeggar* /forum/post/18995260
> 
> 
> Just orderd the two MCZ3001DB IC,s from sony if this works then I still think it was a good buy. Time to get out the soldering gun and say a little prayer. the whole DZ board was 195.00 the IC's were 20 bucks so I will take a stab at it. 150 for the TV w/ stand 75.00 for the parts w/next day shipping.so if this works I am into it for 225.00. I am using the stand for the 970 so at least something is working from that deal for now.



Good luck, be careful and please be sure not to re-injure your back.


Please let us know if this works.


----------



## rudebeggar

Got home from work today and plugged the TV in and I'll be damned,it works. I left it unplugged for at least a half hour yesterday and still got the 7 blinks. I will keep those IC's anyway,just in case....I am afraid to shut it off, at least until I go to bed.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudebeggar* /forum/post/18998873
> 
> 
> Got home from work today and plugged the TV in and I'll be damned,it works. I left it unplugged for at least a half hour yesterday and still got the 7 blinks. I will keep those IC's anyway,just in case....I am afraid to shut it off, at least until I go to bed.



Glad that it's at least working. Once in a long while that type of problem can come up and keeping it unplugged for a few minutes usually resolves it. Why it took a half-day (in lieu of a half-hour) I can't say, unless the set wasn't plugged in firmly, not giving enough juice to provide the power the 960 requires to actually work.


When you go into your service menu, don't forget to write down the settings prior to making any of your own adjustments, and then log those new ones in as well.


----------



## copr

I'm trying to pick one of these up to play Gamecube/Wii on, but I have a couple questions first.


I'm going to hook this up to HD cable via HDMI connected to a Time Warner HD 1080i box. Will the picture fill the entire screen? I think that it will, but I want to make sure.


----------



## unclepauly

Yes the HD feed will fill the picture and then some.. ie. overscan


----------



## copr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/19000579
> 
> 
> Yes the HD feed will fill the picture and then some.. ie. overscan



Great! What about when watching blu ray?


----------



## unclepauly

Yup same. Actually if you get it calibrated the picture will get shrunk down a bit to better fit the display and you will get a bump in resolution.


* - wait.. are you asking if the picture will have the borders lopped off(overscan) or if the picture will not completely reach the border of the screen? Wording is throwing me off


----------



## rudebeggar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/18999201
> 
> 
> Glad that it's at least working. Once in a long while that type of problem can come up and keeping it unplugged for a few minutes usually resolves it. Why it took a half-day (in lieu of a half-hour) I can't say, unless the set wasn't plugged in firmly, not giving enough juice to provide the power the 960 requires to actually work.
> 
> 
> When you go into your service menu, don't forget to write down the settings prior to making any of your own adjustments, and then log those new ones in as well.



Do you think any of the changes I made in the service menu could have caused this to happen? And als I would like to say thank you to you and the other helpful people on this forum. Someday I will get the settings right in service mode. If there is anyone in the Boston area (Northshore) that can do a proper calibration let me know.


----------



## Ennui




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudebeggar* /forum/post/19001135
> 
> 
> Do you think any of the changes I made in the service menu could have caused this to happen? And als I would like to say thank you to you and the other helpful people on this forum. Someday I will get the settings right in service mode. If there is anyone in the Boston area (Northshore) that can do a proper calibration let me know.



Jeff Meier of Accu Cal did a good job on my 960 a year ago.


Check out http://www.accucalhd.com 


FYI.


----------



## rudebeggar

Back to the seven blinks again. First I will put a tester on the outlet and see if it is wired properly replace if needed. I know it is in sequence with at least 1 other outlet in the room,because when I turn the fan on it would cause a quick surge or drop in the Toshiba CRT I had there.So before I go taking the TV apart I will see if it is an external problem. Always go for the simple solution first .


----------



## rudebeggar

So much for replacing the two IC's, now I get the three blink error. Kind of wierd because no initial blinking when pwer is turned on. I knew that I should have just bought the DZ board instead of trying to solder the chips. Oh well,live and learn


----------



## TheGigaShadow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *copr* /forum/post/19000660
> 
> 
> Great! What about when watching blu ray?



It will fill the screen and look amazing.


----------



## TheGigaShadow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/19000735
> 
> 
> Yup same. Actually if you get it calibrated the picture will get shrunk down a bit to better fit the display and you will get a bump in resolution.
> 
> 
> * - wait.. are you asking if the picture will have the borders lopped off(overscan) or if the picture will not completely reach the border of the screen? Wording is throwing me off



You can fix the overscan yourself and get that same bump in resolution.


Things to keep in mind when doing it. It has to be done per input and per resolution to get it right. For example, if you correct on input 5 it won't affect input 7. You'll have to do input 7 separately. If you have a source (like a cable box) coming in providing different signals, (some channels broadcast 720, some 1080) you have to correct both 720 and 1080 individually.


----------



## Tom Monahan

What I wouldn't give to get one of these sets to play my old laserdiscs on. I sure wish you could still buy one. Craigslist in Montana sucks.


----------



## EJ

I turned my sister and her husband onto thr 970 toward the end of their run. They were leary of the weight, but they wanted the best image.


I visited them a couple weeks ago. I'm still blown away!


----------



## rudebeggar

I got the DZ board today from sony or so I thought. Someone in the factory doesn't know how to read. They sent me the AZ board. It took me fifteen minutes to explain to them the mistake.Now I wait some more.


----------



## rimmi2002

This might be a very basic question, but I am having a hard time figuring it out. I have xbr960 TV and a Bose Lifestyle 38 audio setup. I wanted to send all sounds from the TV to the bose media center via a spdif connection. I connected the a spdif wire from the digital out from the TV to the digital in on the bose media center. Then I turned on the digital input from the bose media center as instructed from the manual.


I still get no sound from the digital input though. I can't find any information on the TV manual on going through the TV menu to pass sound through to the digital output. Is there a way to do this? I triend connected my laptop to the TV via HDMI. The sounds and picture work on the TV and speakers, but don't pass through to the reciever. Any help will be really appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## Ennui

I had my 960 fed into my (older) Bose system without trouble. My Bose needs to have the "AUX" input selected.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rimmi2002* /forum/post/19057561
> 
> 
> This might be a very basic question, but I am having a hard time figuring it out. I have xbr960 TV and a Bose Lifestyle 38 audio setup. I wanted to send all sounds from the TV to the bose media center via a spdif connection. I connected the a spdif wire from the digital out from the TV to the digital in on the bose media center. Then I turned on the digital input from the bose media center as instructed from the manual.
> 
> 
> I still get no sound from the digital input though. I can't find any information on the TV manual on going through the TV menu to pass sound through to the digital output. Is there a way to do this? I triend connected my laptop to the TV via HDMI. The sounds and picture work on the TV and speakers, but don't pass through to the reciever. Any help will be really appreciated. Thanks.



It may be that the digital audio output of the 960 is only sourced from the integrated tuner and won't pass through audio from an external digital source. Have you tried the integrated tuner with your setup?


----------



## rudebeggar

Got the DZ board and replaced it .TV works but it is some how stuck in 4:3, my settings in the service menu haven't changed. I saw someone else with this problem in this thread but no solution. There must be something that I am missing, can anyone help me out with a solution. Do I have to take the back off and adjust somethig inside the set or is it something so simple that I will want to kick myself...I am happy and sad at the same time over this, I just want the damn thing to function like it is supposed to.


----------



## Ennui

I assume you have the Sony remote?


What does the Screen Mode show when using that button?


----------



## rudebeggar

full


----------



## rudebeggar

I am thinking that because the only thing different is the Dz board,I will have to take the back off of the TV and adjust the set from the inside somehow


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudebeggar* /forum/post/19073837
> 
> 
> ....TV works but it is some how stuck in 4:3, my settings in the service menu haven't changed.....





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ennui* /forum/post/19074459
> 
> 
> I assume you have the Sony remote?
> 
> 
> What does the Screen Mode show when using that button?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudebeggar* /forum/post/19074851
> 
> 
> full



More information needed.

When you continuously press the screen mode button, the set stays fixed in the FULL mode with a 4:3 window? What source are you viewing when this occurs? What sources do you have available and does this happen for all sources?


FWIW, my 34HS510, an earlier version of the 960, will remain fixed in FULL screen mode whenever an HD resolution input is selected. However, on the later models, this should not be the case.


----------



## The Lizard King




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Tom Monahan* /forum/post/19053768
> 
> 
> What I wouldn't give to get one of these sets to play my old laserdiscs on. I sure wish you could still buy one. Craigslist in Montana sucks.



Would you be deinterlacing/scaling the LD video output? If not, since most LDs are 4:3, you should at least consider the KD-36XS955 (a 4:3 set), instead of the KD-34XBR960 or the KD-34XS955 (both 16:9 sets). You will haver a bigger image using the KD-36XS955.


TLK


----------



## PeterTHX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Lizard King* /forum/post/19076163
> 
> 
> Would you be deinterlacing/scaling the LD video output? If not, since most LDs are 4:3, you should at least consider the KD-36XS955 (a 4:3 set), instead of the KD-34XBR960 or the KD-34XS955 (both 16:9 sets). You will haver a bigger image using the KD-36XS955.



Isn't that a bit much for a single source (a 4x3 TV)?


He can do what I did with my 960, zoom letterboxed material on my 960. More image than what would be on a 4x3 set, particularly 2.35 movies.


----------



## The Lizard King




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PeterTHX* /forum/post/19076228
> 
> 
> Isn't that a bit much for a single source (a 4x3 TV)?



Maybe. However, HD 16:9 signals are letterboxed on the 36XS955, and the overall size of the widescreen picture is very comparable to the 34XBR960/34XS955 (33" for the 36XS955).



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PeterTHX* /forum/post/19076228
> 
> 
> He can do what I did with my 960, zoom letterboxed material on my 960. More image than what would be on a 4x3 set, particularly 2.35 movies.



No. About the same. As I said, for the 36XS955, 4:3 = 36" and 16:9 = 33". That extra inch probably won't make a hill of beans difference either way from watching the same content on the 34XBR960/34XS955.


TLK


----------



## rudebeggar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/19075740
> 
> 
> More information needed.
> 
> When you continuously press the screen mode button, the set stays fixed in the FULL mode with a 4:3 window? What source are you viewing when this occurs? What sources do you have available and does this happen for all sources?
> 
> 
> FWIW, my 34HS510, an earlier version of the 960, will remain fixed in FULL screen mode whenever an HD resolution input is selected. However, on the later models, this should not be the case.



Happens for all sources. Screen is in full mode. I am wondering if I have to open up the TV and adjust the two screwws on part of the DZ board


----------



## rudebeggar

I talked to a TV repairman and he said the DZ board is a plug and play unit,meaning that there is no reason that he can think of except that the board is the wrong one or is defective. The numbers do match in the center of the board,but there are a couple of slight differences. I am wondering if the boards are being made different now than back in 2004 when the TV was manufactured


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PeterTHX* /forum/post/19076228
> 
> 
> Isn't that a bit much for a single source (a 4x3 TV)?
> 
> 
> He can do what I did with my 960, zoom letterboxed material on my 960. More image than what would be on a 4x3 set, particularly 2.35 movies.



Actually, both my cable and upconverted DVD outputs are set for 1080i with the DVD player additionally set to "stretch" so letterboxed material in 4x3 material fills the screen horizontally. Then, all I need is the 960's vertical expand to fill it proportionately.


I prefer this over the 960's zoom because better resolution seems to be retained by having the input stretched by the incoming source instead.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudebeggar* /forum/post/19077306
> 
> 
> Happens for all sources. Screen is in full mode. I am wondering if I have to open up the TV and adjust the two screwws on part of the DZ board



What are your sources and their input resolutions? Have you tried a known 480i source? The screen mode does not cycle through any options except FULL, correct?


I would recommend you NOT make any adjustments on the DZ board. What are the exact part numbers on the old and new board? The 34XBR960 service manual indicates A-1303-038-A as the DZ board part number.


----------



## rudebeggar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/19083867
> 
> 
> What are your sources and their input resolutions? Have you tried a known 480i source? The screen mode does not cycle through any options except FULL, correct?
> 
> 
> I would recommend you NOT make any adjustments on the DZ board. What are the exact part numbers on the old and new board? The 34XBR960 service manual indicates A-1303-038-A as the DZ board part number.



screen mode cycles through all options. usig hdmi and cable box through composte RBG on vid 5


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudebeggar* /forum/post/19083896
> 
> 
> screen mode cycles through all options. usig hdmi and cable box through composte RBG on vid 5



Now I'm confused. The answer to your problem may be in the details and without them, I cannot help.


Are you saying that the screen mode DOES cycle through options other than FULL but only APPEARS to be stuck in FULL?


Define "somehow stuck in 4:3". Is this a 4:3 window with black pillars in FULL screen mode? What happens in other screen modes, if available?


You still haven't answered the question of inputs and resolutions. What exactly is your source on hdmi and what is its output resolution? What exactly is your cable stb's output resolution and how is it connected? FYI, video 5 is a *component*, YPbPr input, not composite.


DZ board part numbers?


----------



## rudebeggar

WHAT THE HELL. Just pulled the board out those morons at Sony sent the wrong board again


----------



## rudebeggar

they sent me the board for the 36" 4:3 TV. looks almost the same and has the same connectors. I cant believe that rhis has happened again. Sony assures me that they wil send the right board this time.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudebeggar* /forum/post/19084133
> 
> 
> they sent me the board for the 36" 4:3 TV. looks almost the same and has the same connectors. I cant believe that rhis has happened again. Sony assures me that they wil send the right board this time.




Can understand your frustration - I'd be going through the roof after all the time you've spent working on the set only to still be getting the wrong part to finally finish the job.


As far as Sony itself, there must be other numbers besides the ones in the center that service representatives use to distinguish the 960's DZ board from that of it's 36 inch 4x3 unit. If you found it was the wrong one, there is no excuse for them making the same mistake twice. What tipped you off to it being the wrong one?


----------



## rudebeggar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/19084335
> 
> 
> Can understand your frustration - I'd be going through the roof after all the time you've spent working on the set only to still be getting the wrong part to finally finish the job.
> 
> 
> As far as Sony itself, there must be other numbers besides the ones in the center that service representatives use to distinguish the 960's DZ board from that of it's 36 inch 4x3 unit. If you found it was the wrong one, there is no excuse for them making the same mistake twice. What tipped you off to it being the wrong one?



A small tag on the board which I should have looked at before I installed it.# was A1062014A(for the 36xs955)not the A1303038A which is on the original board. The board had all the same plug in spots so I figured that it must be a replacement,well I figured wrong. I just hope that having the other board in for that short time doesnt mess up the set. Where it says DZ on the two boards it has identical #'s for the bare board but what they put on the board is different. I noticed the new board had heat fins on it that the old one didn't,but I thought that it might have been added like an upgrade or fix. I am just amazed at the level of incompetence at sonys parts warehouse.I will give them credit for being curtious and trying to get it right on the phone,but I have my doubts that they will. My wife says they should give me the part for free,she is right. I hate to fly,but if they screw this one up,I am going to the warehouse to take it out of someones hide.


----------



## evoluzione

I figured I'd post here seeing as everyone knows these TVs


as the post title says, I'm selling my 34XBR910 and 34XBR960


The 910 is currently in need of an IC Board, it was getting the 7 flashing lights, an easy fix if i understand correctly


The 960 works but needs some calibrationsome convergence issues mainly, a little fuzzy on the sides too.


I'm currently living in Henderson (Las Vegas), NV and am soon moving, and I really don't want to ship these beasts of TVs or bring them with me.


If anyone is interested, PM me, or email me directly at gmail.com - it's my username here for the address.


I'm open to offers and I want them to go to a good home where they'll be enjoyed, but I do need to get rid of them within the next few weeks


----------



## badgerdms

Hey Gang,


I've got a 34XBR960 that just developed the dreaded blinking light syndrome--until about two weeks ago, it had worked perfectly for over 6 years. If someone wants to buy the board and fix it, it's yours if you come get it out of my house. Let me know.


Cheers,


Dave


----------



## rudebeggar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *badgerdms* /forum/post/19090142
> 
> 
> Hey Gang,
> 
> 
> I've got a 34XBR960 that just developed the dreaded blinking light syndrome--until about two weeks ago, it had worked perfectly for over 6 years. If someone wants to buy the board and fix it, it's yours if you come get it out of my house. Let me know.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Dave



easy7 fix. try it you can do it . it will be worth it


----------



## badgerdms




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudebeggar* /forum/post/19091492
> 
> 
> easy7 fix. try it you can do it . it will be worth it



Where did you order the parts from?


----------



## jamesflames




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rimmi2002* /forum/post/19057783
> 
> 
> I still get no sound from the digital input though. I can't find any information on the TV manual on going through the TV menu to pass sound through to the digital output. Is there a way to do this? I triend connected my laptop to the TV via HDMI. The sounds and picture work on the TV and speakers, but don't pass through to the reciever. Any help will be really appreciated. Thanks.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raouliii* /forum/post/19057783
> 
> 
> It may be that the digital audio output of the 960 is only sourced from the integrated tuner and won't pass through audio from an external digital source. Have you tried the integrated tuner with your setup?



This is exactly right. The 960 only sends digital audio from the integrated tuner out through the toslink connector.


----------



## rudebeggar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *badgerdms* /forum/post/19092641
> 
> 
> Where did you order the parts from?



direct from sony. but make sure they send you the right part.they sent me the wrong one 2 times,today I will hopefully get the right one.


When your set blinks,how many times.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudebeggar* /forum/post/19084415
> 
> 
> A small tag on the board which I should have looked at before I installed it.# was A1062014A(for the 36xs955)not the A1303038A which is on the original board. The board had all the same plug in spots so I figured that it must be a replacement,well I figured wrong. I just hope that having the other board in for that short time doesnt mess up the set. Where it says DZ on the two boards it has identical #'s for the bare board but what they put on the board is different. I noticed the new board had heat fins on it that the old one didn't,but I thought that it might have been added like an upgrade or fix. I am just amazed at the level of incompetence at sonys parts warehouse.I will give them credit for being curtious and trying to get it right on the phone,but I have my doubts that they will. My wife says they should give me the part for free,she is right. I hate to fly,but if they screw this one up,I am going to the warehouse to take it out of someones hide.



Make sure you punch the right individuals. The ones who didn't bother to do quality checks at the warehouse should be singled out - not the others.

But don't mess with them if they happen to be on sterroids or HGH....










Of course you didn't notice both times it being the wrong part - you're not the one responsible for checking the tags prior to shipment.


----------



## rudebeggar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/19095404
> 
> 
> Make sure you punch the right individuals. The ones who didn't bother to do quality checks at the warehouse should be singled out - not the others.
> 
> But don't mess with them if they happen to be on sterroids or HGH....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course you didn't notice both times it being the wrong part - you're not the one responsible for checking the tags prior to shipment.



FedEx came and took the package, but hasnt come to drop the new one off. I said to sony that they should give me a discount as a gesture of good faith. They said that they will waive the shipping charges and not charge me additionally for the new board????? I kindly stated as a fact for the last 3 weeks that sony has had my 200 bucks and all I got for my money was a three week long head ache. After saying that,I asked, does that sound like a fair shake to you ,they said no but still wont do anything about it. They wouldnt like to be in my shoes,yet they are the ones that sold them to me and told me to take a long walk off a shot pier.


----------



## badgerdms




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudebeggar* /forum/post/19095181
> 
> 
> direct from sony. but make sure they send you the right part.they sent me the wrong one 2 times,today I will hopefully get the right one.
> 
> 
> When your set blinks,how many times.



It's either 6 or 7 times. I'll check again to make sure which one.


----------



## rudebeggar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *badgerdms* /forum/post/19095889
> 
> 
> It's either 6 or 7 times. I'll check again to make sure which one.



mine did the seven blinks. DZ board was the culprit


----------



## rudebeggar

Got the right board ,put it in and presto. I must have changed a setting in hte service menu,because I cant get cable directly from the wire,scans for channels but finds none. I will just get a box or switch to fios because they give you free HD convertrers with your HD service if you already are paying for a box.I am sure the component hook ups still work for those boxes. Oh yeah sony gave me my 7 dollars back for the initial shipping . better than nothing


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudebeggar* /forum/post/19101925
> 
> 
> Got the right board ,put it in and presto. I must have changed a setting in hte service menu,because I cant get cable directly from the wire,scans for channels but finds none. I will just get a box or switch to fios because they give you free HD convertrers with your HD service if you already are paying for a box.I am sure the component hook ups still work for those boxes. Oh yeah sony gave me my 7 dollars back for the initial shipping . better than nothing



Guess after you asked Sony how would they feel being in your shoes, they felt guilty and sent you the money for a pair of Dr. Scholl's.


But glad everything's finally all worked out except for now needing a cable box (our system recently scrambled all stations as well, making the 960's digital tuner useless except for basic broadcast). Yes, most cable boxes have both component and HDMI outputs but if you need to use component because of a bluray, upconverting DVD player or other HD device already utilizing the HDMI input seven, suggest getting a HDMI switch box from monoprice like I did.


Have fun. You will find having a 960 was still worth the aggrevation.


Joe


----------



## rudebeggar

Just a few small tweaks in the service menu the a switch to FIOS and I will be happy. The basic channels dont even show up,on my 970 they did ? But I dont mind using component because it is 1080i anyway


----------



## rudebeggar

I have to open it up again, nothing bad. Just have to adjust the focus a little better


----------



## LodeRunner

Hi,


Trying to the picture from my DVD player look good, but my KD-34XBR960 won't let me change the DRC Mode. It's grayed out (says "interlaced") and not selectable. I changed my DVD player from interlaced to progressive and the PQ is much nicer but there are very noticable motion artifacts--horizontal lines. Not sure if changing the DRC Mode to 3:2 pulldown or progressive will help this, but figure it's worth a shot. Anyone know why it won't let me change it?


EDIT: Hmm, apparently DRC is only selectable when the signal is 480i, not 480p. The PQ doesn't seem quite as nice now, but the motion artifacts were very distracting...


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LodeRunner* /forum/post/19123093
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> Trying to the picture from my DVD player look good, but my KD-34XBR960 won't let me change the DRC Mode. It's grayed out (says "interlaced") and not selectable. I changed my DVD player from interlaced to progressive and the PQ is much nicer but there are very noticable motion artifacts--horizontal lines. Not sure if changing the DRC Mode to 3:2 pulldown or progressive will help this, but figure it's worth a shot. Anyone know why it won't let me change it?
> 
> 
> EDIT: Hmm, apparently DRC is only selectable when the signal is 480i, not 480p. The PQ doesn't seem quite as nice now, but the motion artifacts were very distracting...



Did not notice any sudden motion artifacts or macroblocking going from 480i to 480p. But if there are, it's still worth the trade-off. Picture is softer and not over-enhanced when set to progressive.


This past winter I needed to replace my DVD recorder so finally got a player with upconversion to 1080i. I had asked forum members in the past if they noticed an improvement using an upconversion unit as opposed to the 960's own upscaling circuitry and the responses were mixed. However, I found that the player immensly improved the picture quality and would recommend you consider one for yourself (a good upconverting player today costs about the same as the price of four DVDs). That's why I haven't made the additional jump to bluray (also because there are few titles coming out today that I would be interested in to justify the additional expenses, even though the cost of both players and discs has dropped considerably). Also, I'm happy with the recordings made off of HD stations that, I guess, are downconverted to 480i for recording and then upconverted back to 1080i resolution.


If you're using video seven for cable, an inexpensive HDMI switch box can be purchased through MonoPrice along with the two HDMI cables you would need.


----------



## Lucius Snow

Hi all,


I've been looking for the best CRT HD around ... and i've discovered this 34XBR960. Does anybody has got one for sale ?


Thank you.


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lucius Snow* /forum/post/19153949
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> I've been looking for the best CRT HD around ... and i've discovered this 34XBR960. Does anybody has got one for sale ?
> 
> 
> Thank you.



You are correct. The KD-34XBR960 is the very best (excluding the Sony Qualia, only available in Japan on limited production). The XBR970 is a stripped down version of the XBR960.


I regularly watch ebay and craigslist. The KD-34XBR960 shows up on a regular basis and usually priced under $350.


----------



## rudebeggar

If you live near boston, they are practically giving them away on craigslist. I am kicking myself for not waiting. I just saw one for 50,and a 970 for free.I am tired of lifting the two i have or i would get another one. plus my wife would kill me.


----------



## Deusfaux

I'm looking for a way to customize the zoom settings, so that I can get windowboxed content to fill the display properly, across 3 scenarios:


I want to be able to hit zoom on NTSC cable feeds for 16:9 content in a 4:3 box, and blow it up so it fills the set's display, without any cutoff or overscan.


Same goes for non-anamorphic DVDs. Although this would only work for 16:9 or wider movies... right (taller ones would be cutoff)


Lastly, using Sony PSP gameplay video out so that it too fills the screen. However, this is a different aspect/size than non-anamorphic tv feeds or dvds, and would require a different kind of zoom from both of the above.



I see a problem in that "Zoom" mode is typically the same tied to the same MID3 settings as Full. And I have the Full mode ones set properly, so I don't want to change them to accomodate a separate zoom setting. (ie, the menus on the PSP video out are anamorphic 16:9 and require Full mode)


Help?


bonus: is the 960 capable of Full/expanded RGB ? or Just 15-235 limited?


----------



## fac133

I had my KD-34XBR960 for over 5 years now and I love it but it seems in the last couple weeks I have been getting these pink/reddish shadows casted on pretty much anything I watch, I mean its not everywhere but an example is if there is a persons face it will cast a shadow for 1/3 of the face, but its not only faces it can be anything while I watch HDTV, dvds or blue rays.

For a sec I thought soomebody screwed up my settings or something and somebody turned up my reds...but when I went to check everythign was normal...I check every single feature and nothing seems to change...I even shut off my tv( unplugged and let it sit for 15 min)

Is it almost time for my TV to go? or is it something that can be fixed or as anybody seen this problem before?


Any help...



Thanks


fac133


----------



## smileypop

I am selling my Xbr960 with matching stand. The last week I have had problems with it coming on. If I unplug it for a day or 2 it will come back on, but if I turn it off and try to turn it back it on it's hit or miss if it comes back on. I don't know if it's the Power supply or board, but I want to sell it to someone that might know how to fix it. I live in the Dallas area, so if your interested send me a PM. Thanks!


----------



## rudebeggar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smileypop* /forum/post/19174774
> 
> 
> I am selling my Xbr960 with matching stand. The last week I have had problems with it coming on. If I unplug it for a day or 2 it will come back on, but if I turn it off and try to turn it back it on it's hit or miss if it comes back on. I don't know if it's the Power supply or board, but I want to sell it to someone that might know how to fix it. I live in the Dallas area, so if your interested send me a PM. Thanks!



how many times does it blink after the initial 10 or 11 blinks? Most are easy fixes,pretty much a plug and play part for the 7 blink error.


----------



## smileypop

7 blinks if it doesn't come on.


----------



## The Lizard King




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smileypop* /forum/post/19175930
> 
> 
> 7 blinks if it doesn't come on.



Unplug it. Wait 10 minutes, re-plug it in, and try again.


TLK


----------



## smileypop




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Lizard King* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Unplug it. Wait 10 minutes, re-plug it in, and try again.
> 
> 
> TLK



This is what I have done for the past 10 days


----------



## amazin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smileypop* /forum/post/19174774
> 
> 
> I am selling my Xbr960 with matching stand. The last week I have had problems with it coming on. If I unplug it for a day or 2 it will come back on, but if I turn it off and try to turn it back it on it's hit or miss if it comes back on. I don't know if it's the Power supply or board, but I want to sell it to someone that might know how to fix it. I live in the Dallas area, so if your interested send me a PM. Thanks!



I would be very much so interested in the stand if you were interested in selling it separately.


----------



## rudebeggar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *smileypop* /forum/post/19175930
> 
> 
> 7 blinks if it doesn't come on.



I will walk you through the process if you want to fix it,it is simple if sony actually sends the right part.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

In another forum I asked why DVDRs that I make off HD stations (via s-video) look great on the upconverted player connected to the 960 as opposed to the upconverting player connected to my 32 inch LCD (which I actually have to output at 480p in order to get a good picture). Got some interesting feedback which IMO shows why CRT is still as good a technology as there is.


One wrote:


"The reason is fairly simple, the Sony being a CRT set also has the ability to actually change to other resolutions instead of just only displaying HD resolution, it can also do SD as a native format as well, and because of that it can also display those standard resolution DVD's in their native resolution. And instead of just upconverting to just one set resolution like ALL fixed pixel sets can only do, it is actually capable changing resolutions. Not all upconversion of SD looks great, some looks better than others, when done well sometimes it can even come close to HD, and yet sometimes just viewing SD in it's own native format looks the best of all. And as for why the commercial SD DVD's look better than you home made ones, again it probably comes to their resolution also, they are true 480p, and your home made ones depending upon how the recorder was hooked up, probably are not."


And another wrote:


"Actually I'm not totally sure about DVD's being 480i, or if they were just restricted to that being their "best" type of output at first, I do know Hollywood was fighting against the release of 480p DVD players for quite awhile for some reason. But they lost out, probably in a big part because HD CRT's can also operate in 480p as a native resolution. And that is very likely the main why there was also such a big push back in the early days of HD CRT sets for also having 480p capable output DVD players. That is also why some HD CRT's like the Pioneer RPTV CRT's were noted for some of the best viewing of SD. In most cases just about any decent HD CRT set, will more often than not be superior showing SD than a fixed pixel set will, due to the fact that they can actually operate in a actual SD resolution."


----------



## unclepauly

I thought the 960 upconverted 480P with the line doubler? I don't think it does native


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/19191843
> 
> 
> I thought the 960 upconverted 480P with the line doubler? I don't think it does native



Think you're right, which is probably why the 960 is the creme-de-creme of HD CRTS and the picture quality of even non-upconverted DVD goes beyond just native 480p.


Of course, upconverted DVDs look fantastic on the set but I gather that also means bypassing the line-doubler since it's already being fed 1080i resolution.


----------



## unclepauly

Yeah I've always wondered if the line doubler does a better job than standard upscaling. I just assume it does because of how friggin good DVD's look but I've never compared


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/19192763
> 
> 
> Yeah I've always wondered if the line doubler does a better job than standard upscaling. I just assume it does because of how friggin good DVD's look but I've never compared



I often wondered if it was better letting the line doubler do the upscaling instead of a DVD player. When my DVD recorder died, it's replacement came with 1080i upconversion and the picture quality does look even more stunning than without it. So, with a higher resolution being fed into the 960, even without the line-doubler there are so many other great features incorporated into the set to make those upconverted DVD's look even more fantastic!


I had callibrated my set for both, 1080i HDMI and component 480p.


----------



## ratchetrizzo

Yay, the power went out at my house last night and now I am getting the 7 blinks of death.

Looks like I need to read the thread and find out what I need to do to order the 2 chips from sony and then solder them in.


It may be time for a new set too though, I have awful pink ghosting, on the right side of images, after any bright images.


----------



## Deusfaux

anyone got anything for my questions at the top of the page?


----------



## rudebeggar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ratchetrizzo* /forum/post/19206681
> 
> 
> Yay, the power went out at my house last night and now I am getting the 7 blinks of death.
> 
> Looks like I need to read the thread and find out what I need to do to order the 2 chips from sony and then solder them in.
> 
> 
> It may be time for a new set too though, I have awful pink ghosting, on the right side of images, after any bright images.



I tried to soldr them, you need a pinpoint soldering gun and also a way to remove old chip without ruining the board. I found a place that repairs boards online. But I recommend just getting a new DZ board. Easy fix . If you want to go through with it, I will guide you through. Board is 200 dollars.


----------



## ratchetrizzo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudebeggar* /forum/post/19218555
> 
> 
> I tried to soldr them, you need a pinpoint soldering gun and also a way to remove old chip without ruining the board. I found a place that repairs boards online. But I recommend just getting a new DZ board. Easy fix . If you want to go through with it, I will guide you through. Board is 200 dollars.




Nah, I'm just going to get a new 55" LED TV.

If there is anyone in Delaware who wants this xbr960 (with stand) let me know, otherwise I'll see if anyone on craigslist wants it before I haul it to the curb.


----------



## smirnoffski

I have to grudgingly get rid of my beloved 34XBR960 set due to space considerations. It is in perfect working condition. I will also include a stand but it is not the original one. I am in the Los Angeles area. Please PM with an offer. Thanks.


----------



## drkashner

I've had my 960 since they first came out and its been great. Those of you that have bluray players connected through HDMI. Do you have any problems with it? I decided to get with the times and get a bluray player. I got the LG BD590 with the 250 Gig harddrive, but it will not connect to the HDMI input on the tv. It displays the menu from the player for a couple of seconds and then goes black. The manual says that the HDMI is not compatible with the player. I connected it with component cables, but the player only outputs 480i through component cables when playing copyrighted material, so why have a Bluray player? The LG had alot of nice features, it connected to my network easily and you can stream videos and music from my pc, copy cd's to the harddrive, but without HD, its not worth me having it.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drkashner* /forum/post/19261084
> 
> 
> I've had my 960 since they first came out and its been great. Those of you that have bluray players connected through HDMI. Do you have any problems with it? I decided to get with the times and get a bluray player. I got the LG BD590 with the 250 Gig harddrive, but it will not connect to the HDMI input on the tv. It displays the menu from the player for a couple of seconds and then goes black.



How about trying to limit the BluRay player to 1080i?


You can't send 1080p to the 960 anyway, and if you do you will get the infamous "black screen". Do NOT send 1080p, for anything... not for menus, and not for a true BluRay disc either.


Is there a way to set that in the LG player?


----------



## drkashner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/19261579
> 
> 
> How about trying to limit the BluRay player to 1080i?
> 
> 
> You can't send 1080p to the 960 anyway, and if you do you will get the infamous "black screen". Do NOT send 1080p, for anything... not for menus, and not for a true BluRay disc either.
> 
> 
> Is there a way to set that in the LG player?



Thanks, I think there is a way to set it to 1080i. I'll try when I get home.


----------



## GiantSquid

Do you guys know what model Sony this is just by looking at it? Person selling didn't list the model # but said it's 36". I emailed him but he hasn't replied just yet. I'm hoping its the xbr960.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GiantSquid* /forum/post/19264693
> 
> 
> Do you guys know what model Sony this is just by looking at it? Person selling didn't list the model # but said it's 36". I emailed him but he hasn't replied just yet. I'm hoping its the xbr960.



Ixnay.


XBR960's full name is 34XBR960, where the "34" is its diagonal size. It was not a 36" set.


Could be a 36XS955, which IS a 36" set but is not HD and is not 16x9.


On the other hand, this does look like a 16x9 set, and it does look like an XBR960. So maybe it's actually 34" and the seller made a mistake claiming it was 36".


----------



## Ennui

It looks very much like the KD34XS955. Here is more detail on it:

http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/mod...D34XS955&LOC=3


----------



## GiantSquid

That's exactly what I'm thinking. The seller erroneously listed it as 36", or maybe added another 2" on purpose to make it sound more appealing since LCDs are listed at 36".


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GiantSquid* /forum/post/19264981
> 
> 
> The seller erroneously listed it as 36", or maybe added another 2" on purpose to make it sound more appealing since LCDs are listed at 36".



Actually, I think comparably sized LCDs are 37".


----------



## GiantSquid

If it is the KD34XS955, how does that compare to the xbr960? Don't they share the same tube?


----------



## Ennui




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GiantSquid* /forum/post/19265058
> 
> 
> If it is the KD34XS955, how does that compare to the xbr960? Don't they share the same tube?



If you compare the marketing specs, it looks like it is missing the PIP function of the 960???


That should be P&P; twin view.


----------



## The Lizard King




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/19264787
> 
> 
> Ixnay.
> 
> 
> XBR960's full name is 34XBR960, where the "34" is its diagonal size. It was not a 36" set.
> 
> 
> Could be a 36XS955, which IS a 36" set *but is not HD* and is not 16x9.
> 
> 
> On the other hand, this does look like a 16x9 set, and it does look like an XBR960. So maybe it's actually 34" and the seller made a mistake claiming it was 36".



Wrong. The KD-36XS955 is an HD set.


TLK


----------



## The Lizard King




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GiantSquid* /forum/post/19264693
> 
> 
> Do you guys know what model Sony this is just by looking at it? Person selling didn't list the model # but said it's 36". I emailed him but he hasn't replied just yet. I'm hoping its the xbr960.



It could either be the KD-34XS955, the KD-34XBR960, or the KD-34XBR970. It will say what it is on the back.


TLK


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Lizard King* /forum/post/19265258
> 
> 
> Wrong. The KD-36XS955 is an HD set.



In my own personal opinion, a 4:3 set is not HD... even if it has 1080i native resolution, a built-in ATSC tuner, and HDMI input.


It may share some electronics and features with the 16:9 models, but it's still 4:3 and therefore a compromise.


----------



## RalphArch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/19267473
> 
> 
> In my own personal opinion, a 4:3 set is not HD... even if it has 1080i native resolution, a built-in ATSC tuner, and HDMI input.
> 
> 
> It may share some electronics and features with the 16:9 models, but it's still 4:3 and therefore a compromise.




Perhaps your opinion could be better informed. I own both the 36kd955xs and a kd 960 xbr


When recieving an HD signal the 36kd955xs compresses the scan lines vertically to a 33" 16:9 display; so its only 4:3 presentation for 480i or 480p material - or in case the viewer chooses to "zoom" to full screen (which results in a non-HD 1080i 4:3 window for the that portion of the 16:9 signal).


IMO the 36 inch set is a much preferred display when compared with the 34 inch little brother. The loss of 1 inch of HD real estate is not critical to me; especially whent the 36 inch set has far less convergence/linearity problems in the corners due to the inherent easier electronics challenge due to the different tube geometries.


The ability to watch standard fare 480 i and p material, and slides and digital camcorder output on a 4:3 display with 50% more real estate than the postage stamp of the 960 makes the choice a no brainer if you can find one of the 36 inch HD sets


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Is there any type of liquid that could be applied to the screen that could cover up small areas of the anti-glare covering that have come off? Did Sony ever have one for use by repairmen?


----------



## The Lizard King




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RalphArch* /forum/post/19268464
> 
> 
> Perhaps your opinion could be better informed. I own both the 36kd955xs and a kd 960 xbr
> 
> *When recieving an HD signal the 36kd955xs compresses the scan lines vertically to a 33" 16:9 display*; so its only 4:3 presentation for 480i or 480p material - or in case the viewer chooses to "zoom" to full screen (which results in a non-HD 1080i 4:3 window for the that portion of the 16:9 signal).
> 
> 
> IMO the 36 inch set is a much preferred display when compared with the 34 inch little brother. The loss of 1 inch of HD real estate is not critical to me; especially when the 36 inch set has far less convergence/linearity problems in the corners due to the inherent easier electronics challenge due to the different tube geometries.
> 
> 
> The ability to watch standard fare 480 i and p material, and slides and digital camcorder output on a 4:3 display with 50% more real estate than the postage stamp of the 960 makes the choice a no brainer if you can find one of the 36 inch HD sets



I didn't know how this worked, but my eyes do tell me that HD signals through the HDMI and component inputs look like HD signals to me on my KD-36XS955. Thanks for explaining this to me.










TLK


----------



## ratchetrizzo

I replaced my 960 today with a 55" LED set.

If anyone wants my 7 blink o' death 960 with stand and you can come pick it up in Delaware PM me, otherwise it's going on the curb monday night for trash day.


Edit -- NM, someone took it but left the stand.

If anyone wants the stand let me know


----------



## amazin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ratchetrizzo* /forum/post/19276046
> 
> 
> I replaced my 960 today with a 55" LED set.
> 
> If anyone wants my 7 blink o' death 960 with stand and you can come pick it up in Delaware PM me, otherwise it's going on the curb monday night for trash day.
> 
> 
> Edit -- NM, someone took it but left the stand.
> 
> If anyone wants the stand let me know



I would be interested in the stand but I would need to have it shipped most likely at my expense obviously.


I guess you would have to take it apart and package it as well.


Hmmm, maybe I could take the long trip and pick it up. I live near Hagerstown, MD. If you do not mind what general area of Delaware do you live?


EDIT: I should have asked before, is this the official SONY 34XBR960 stand? I also just noticed this was posted 2 weeks ago, I forgot how slowly the CRT/direct view forums move these days.


----------



## evoluzione

I'm selling my 34XBR960 (with SU-34XBR3 stand) and my 34XBR910 as we're moving very soon and don't want to lug them halfway across the country.


The 910 has the 7 blinking lights although it's working fine at the moment, and the 960 needs some geometry calibration.


Currently in Henderson, NV (Las Vegas) - make me an offer!


thanks


----------



## PathofNeo

I'm just getting around to setting up my 34XBR960 that I bought from here earlier this year and everything is perfect so far except for one thing...


I notice phosphor trails. Well I think that's what it is isn't it? Like when an actor waves their arm around I can see a green trail. It isn't terrible but I notice it on just about all my content. Is this a sign of a dying CRT or is this normal? Anything in the settings to fix?


Thanks.


----------



## unclepauly

It's normal but my trails aren't green, they are the same color as whatever object is in motion


----------



## PathofNeo

Quote:

Originally Posted by *unclepauly* 
It's normal but my trails aren't green, they are the same color as whatever object is in motion
Your right. I was noticing green because I was watching a show with a lot of green. Like just now I saw a white smear from a soccer ball. It's interesting because the first 34XBR960 I had had absolutely ZERO trails, smears, or any blur. It was virtually blur free.. even more so than my Pioneer 5020 Kuro.


But this one for some reason I'm seeing mini trails here and there. It's not a deal breaker but I certainly notice it. I thought CRTs were immune to this phenomenon.


----------



## PathofNeo

Also, I'm having D-Nice come to my house to calibrate my Samsung 63C8000. This is probably a dumb question but is it worth it to have my 34XBR960 calibrated by him? I hear he's good, but how much better can he make the movie mode?


I'm particularly interested in getting a better picture through HDMI. The component connection is razor sharp, but whatever HDMI source I have isn't coming in as clean. Is this also normal for this CRT? If so, is there anything that can be done about it like bump up a sharpness setting in the service menu. I read that one of the sharpness values are increased in the service menu by default for the component connection. I can't remember but it was somewhere in this thread. Anyone know this?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *unclepauly* /forum/post/19431766
> 
> 
> It's normal but my trails aren't green, they are the same color as whatever object is in motion



That's something I never noticed on our 960. Is it something your saw from the beginning or did it develop over time?


Joe


----------



## unclepauly

It's something I see on all CRT's, but for some reason aperture grill CRT's I see it more than shadow mask CRT's. My PC monitor is a sony aperture grill CRT also(the FW900) and it has this same thing going on. Doesn't bother me in the slightest though. After a week I didn't even notice it was there.


----------



## bbbobbb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PathofNeo* /forum/post/19431527
> 
> 
> I'm just getting around to setting up my 34XBR960 that I bought from here earlier this year and everything is perfect so far except for one thing...
> 
> 
> I notice phosphor trails. Well I think that's what it is isn't it? Like when an actor waves their arm around I can see a green trail. It isn't terrible but I notice it on just about all my content. Is this a sign of a dying CRT or is this normal? Anything in the settings to fix?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



I only saw trails when the brightness or contrast was cranked way up.


Having done a DIY calibration I never see trails.


If you have blu-ray get one of the blu-ray test disks or find a blu-ray disk that has a picture optimization chapter and try that?


----------



## tveli

what model TV did it turn out to be? it looks exactly like my 34XBR2 .


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Quote:

Originally Posted by *unclepauly* 
It's something I see on all CRT's, but for some reason aperture grill CRT's I see it more than shadow mask CRT's. My PC monitor is a sony aperture grill CRT also(the FW900) and it has this same thing going on. Doesn't bother me in the slightest though. After a week I didn't even notice it was there.
Just hope I don't start looking for it now....., knowing me


----------



## HDTimeShifter

I think this is the old 34XBR800 thread that became the 34XBR960 thread.


My 34XBR800 seems to be dead this morning. I turned it on to catch the F1 race and no picture! I tried the power button on it as well as unplugging it, so I think the power supply died? Anybody know if this is a common thing? I think I bought it new in June 2003.


It's so heavy and bulky that I don't think I want to bother with getting people to help me transport it to a repair facility, pay for repair, and transport it back home. It looks to be time to replace it with a larger LED or LCD TV. But I'd like to make sure if it's only a cheap repair...


----------



## The Lizard King




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTimeShifter* /forum/post/19449385
> 
> 
> I think this is the old 34XBR800 thread that became the 34XBR960 thread.
> 
> 
> My 34XBR800 seems to be dead this morning. I turned it on to catch the F1 race and no picture! I tried the power button on it as well as unplugging it, so I think the power supply died? Anybody know if this is a common thing? I think I bought it new in June 2003.
> 
> 
> It's so heavy and bulky that I don't think I want to bother with getting people to help me transport it to a repair facility, pay for repair, and transport it back home. It looks to be time to replace it with a larger LED or LCD TV. But I'd like to make sure if it's only a cheap repair...


 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=928945 


You have to replace at least two ICs to fix your set. The chips are both MCZ3001DB ones. Good luck.


TLK


----------



## Spokker

My girlfriend and I were looking for a TV to replace our dying JVC D-Series CRT (served us well for eight years and still has some life in it, but the end is nigh). It was our go-to set for SD content or if we wanted to play older games, while our XBR960 did the heavy lifting with the newer game systems and other HD content. Standard DVDs looked great as well.


The experience of having only DLPs, LCDs and Plasmas to choose from has turned us off from TV shopping and made us realize just how great CRTs, especially our XBR, really are.


We don't want to go with LCD because we hate ghosting. We hate blacks that aren't quite black. We notice ourselves sitting in extreme viewing angles.


We are hesitant to go with plasma because we just have no idea how bad the input lag situation is. On the Internet, the answers range from "There is 0 lag!" versus "It's unplayable!"


In the real world, we couldn't find a store that would let us hook up a game system. We couldn't find a store that would let us play with the remote. We wouldn't find a store that would waive the 10% return fee. Whatever happened to try before you buy?


In any case, as an XBR CRT owner, have you ever been in this situation? Is there a set that could satisfy you after owning CRTs, especially the XBR?


Having shopped around this weekend, I almost feel like television has taken a step backward.


----------



## PathofNeo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spokker* /forum/post/19451399
> 
> 
> 
> Having shopped around this weekend, I almost feel like television has taken a step backward.




It has until OLED hits the market. That should push technology and picture quality forward quite a bit.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spokker* /forum/post/19451399
> 
> 
> My girlfriend and I were looking for a TV to replace our dying JVC D-Series CRT (served us well for eight years and still has some life in it, but the end is nigh). It was our go-to set for SD content or if we wanted to play older games, while our XBR960 did the heavy lifting with the newer game systems and other HD content. Standard DVDs looked great as well.
> 
> 
> The experience of having only DLPs, LCDs and Plasmas to choose from has turned us off from TV shopping and made us realize just how great CRTs, especially our XBR, really are.
> 
> 
> We don't want to go with LCD because we hate ghosting. We hate blacks that aren't quite black. We notice ourselves sitting in extreme viewing angles.
> 
> 
> We are hesitant to go with plasma because we just have no idea how bad the input lag situation is. On the Internet, the answers range from "There is 0 lag!" versus "It's unplayable!"
> 
> 
> In the real world, we couldn't find a store that would let us hook up a game system. We couldn't find a store that would let us play with the remote. We wouldn't find a store that would waive the 10% return fee. Whatever happened to try before you buy?
> 
> 
> In any case, as an XBR CRT owner, have you ever been in this situation? Is there a set that could satisfy you after owning CRTs, especially the XBR?
> 
> 
> Having shopped around this weekend, I almost feel like television has taken a step backward.



Yup, CRT is still the best technology out there and the 960 is the best of the best. In another forum, I had a lengthy debate with somebody claiming how bad CRT was and it could not compare to Plasma. He cited all the improvements made over the past few years in black levels, contrast, motion, etc. and was then pounced on by many who explained to him that those were improvements not over CRT but to catch up with it.


Joe


----------



## PathofNeo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/19454141
> 
> 
> Yup, CRT is still the best technology out there and the 960 is the best of the best.Joe




I will agree and I try to explain this as well. Folks are blind in this "flat screen" mumbo jumbo world we live in now.


The only area to my knowledge where things managed to stay the same or improved on is motion. I don't mean frame interpolation.. I mean the trails you see like I explained above. My 960 shows faint trails now and then with any input. I can notice it with my eagle eye. I also saw the same thing in the showroom with another 960.


For reference, my Pioneer Kuro has virtually zero trails. I've yet to see any blur, trails, or halos and I've clocked in several thousand hours on the trusty 5020hd. The blacks on the Kuro _doesn't quite_ match the 960, but if it did then it would be a near even battle between the two. Pretty remarkable for a set that many claim is dead and "poor picture quality" lol.


34XBR960 is still the king.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PathofNeo* /forum/post/19454563
> 
> 
> I will agree and I try to explain this as well. Folks are blind in this "flat screen" mumbo jumbo world we live in now.
> 
> 
> The only area to my knowledge where things managed to stay the same or improved on is motion. I don't mean frame interpolation.. I mean the trails you see like I explained above. My 960 shows faint trails now and then with any input. I can notice it with my eagle eye. I also saw the same thing in the showroom with another 960.
> 
> 
> For reference, my Pioneer Kuro has virtually zero trails. I've yet to see any blur, trails, or halos and I've clocked in several thousand hours on the trusty 5020hd. The blacks on the Kuro _doesn't quite_ match the 960, but if it did then it would be a near even battle between the two. Pretty remarkable for a set that many claim is dead and "poor picture quality" lol.
> 
> 
> 34XBR960 is still the king.



But to be honest, I can't recall ever noticing those trails. Is it something all CRTs have or something that occurs on some and not others, even if the same unit?


Joe


----------



## The Lizard King




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/19457747
> 
> 
> But to be honest, I can't recall ever noticing those trails. Is it something all CRTs have or something that occurs on some and not others, even if the same unit?



I've never noticed them, either, and I've been looking at my SONY CRT for them over the past couple of days. For me... nada.


I suspect that it's a problem with his CRT.


TLK


----------



## Spokker

Of course, as our XBR960s age they will lose their picture quality somewhat. Time is definitely running out, but I feel there is a lot of life left in mine.


----------



## PathofNeo

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Spokker* 
Of course, as our XBR960s age they will lose their picture quality somewhat. Time is definitely running out, but I feel there is a lot of life left in mine.


That's most likely what's happened to mine. Time is against us here. But it's coincidental that after watching my Kuro for 2 years and now that I go back to a 960 that I notice these things.


I still stand by the 960 being the king, and will proably take another few years to dethrone.. pending OLED. But yes the latest plasma tech has advanced as well, and this is evident with Pioneer's last offering.


----------



## davehale

A quick question if I may. On my 960 my glass coating has worn off in places. Can I re-coat or can I strip it completely without harm?

-Dave


----------



## tveli

i think there are many posts in this thread describing how to safely remove that coating.

(seems like my 34XBR2, vintage 2001, still has the coating, if indeed it was ever there.)


----------



## The Lizard King




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *davehale* /forum/post/19468100
> 
> 
> A quick question if I may. On my 960 my glass coating has worn off in places. Can I re-coat or can I strip it completely without harm?
> 
> -Dave



Most people would remove it completely:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1021659 


TLK


----------



## bbbobbb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Lizard King* /forum/post/19471570
> 
> 
> Most people would remove it completely:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1021659
> 
> 
> TLK



What I don't get is how this coating wears out?


Is this something that you notice one day has worn off or is this a voluntary "I just don't like it" and want it gone?


----------



## The Lizard King




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bbbobbb* /forum/post/19471827
> 
> 
> What I don't get is how this coating wears out?



It could be a combination of many things. Kids constantly pawing the screen, too astringent of a glass cleaner, pets walking by and brushing against the screen, etc.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bbbobbb* /forum/post/19471827
> 
> 
> Is this something that you notice one day has worn off or is this a voluntary "I just don't like it" and want it gone?



Most of the people who I know who have it don't like it, because it mutes the brightness of the picture.


TLK


----------



## Garrett Adams




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tveli* /forum/post/19471292
> 
> 
> i think there are many posts in this thread describing how to safely remove that coating.
> 
> (seems like my SABRA, vintage 2001, still has the coating, if indeed it was ever there.)



It is there. My 34XBR2 purchased in Aug 2001 has it. There are a couple of small areas where cleaning with 99% isopropyl alcohol wore through the coating. I have since switched to using plain water only.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

We have a few small areas on our screen where the coating has come off as well. These are in the upper left hand corner and down the side. These are not noticeable when watching except for a certain sitting position off center, and then, only the corner one which appears more like light reflecting off the screen - no distortion of color, brightness, black, etc.


Even if I was able to safely remove all of the coating with no damage to the screen, I would be hesitant to do so simply because the 960 was designed to perform with that coating. Were those who found the picture more vivid able to compensate for this by re-adjusting either the service or the user settings - or is the picture quality now permanently different?


Just knowing it is there is more upsetting than the reality.


Joe


----------



## Brad Smith

Anyone in the Vancouver, BC area interested in this set, I've got one I'm getting rid of. PM me if interested.


Sadly, my run with this tv is coming to a close (after several prior attempts to part with it). Finally got the itch for a bigger flat panel!


----------



## seattlepir8

I've finally decided to ditch the old tube in favor of a PN58C8000. I just want a bigger screen. I can't afford a more expensive plasma over 50" so I hope I'm not missing the Old Beast afterward.


It's so sad that it's easier for me to have BB take it with them than for me to do anything with it. Sigh. I'd post it on Craigslist except I don't want to have to move it around and I don't want people coming through my house looking at my AV gear! Oh well. This set still provides an absolutely STUNNING picture 6 years later.


----------



## Red Nightmare

so i'm gonna be picking this set up today. how should i go about calibrating it? are there any isf settings out there?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Red Nightmare* /forum/post/19523250
> 
> 
> so i'm gonna be picking this set up today. how should i go about calibrating it? are there any isf settings out there?



If you wish to attempt calibrating it own your own, go to the AVS forum SONY SERVICE CODES. It has lists of calibration settings for the 360 which indicates both the factory setting and those preferred by the author. While each set has it's unique quirks, I did find the suggestions most valuable, especially on the four color settings which every owner it seems agrees on the changes required. Write down the original settings as they are and use external 1080i test patterns (i.e., bluray) as a guide.


Geometry is quite tricky but there are separate posts on the steps to follow which include excerpts from the Sony service manual with illustrations. Definitely use a cross-hatch pattern for this.


Good luck and enjoy.


----------



## Trojita

I was sort of looking for a XBR960 in my area recently but no one is selling them










I live around Northern Virginia and also Harrisburg PA.


Are the improvements in the XBR960N worth looking for that model specifically instead of the XBR960?


----------



## jdre

*seattlepr8* Don't have them take it, they will probably damage or junk it. Maybe a family member would like it, to step up form Std. def. If selling, you set up the TV in the garage to show people, that might be better than having strangers inside the house. Sure is a nice "second TV" anyhow







.


----------



## Trojita

Someone offered me a XBR960 for $300 and I am contemplating taking the offer. I mainly want the TV for old school gaming and to have the best CRT that will be likely ever made.


Will I need to get a set top box to get most of the channels from my cable company. Because I see that there is a QAM tuner included in the XBR960 but I don't see it saying anything about encryption which I believe the local cable company is scrambling the channels above 8 on most older televisions.


Also I thought this was weird so I thought I'd check with you guys

http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/...specifications 


It says on the specifications that the display resolution is 480p for some reason but that its native resolution is 1080i.


Also I see that the XBR960 doesn't have a VGA port, is this correct?


----------



## Hadamar

Yes, there is no VGA port.


You'll definitely need either a cable box or a Cable Card (single stream) to get the non-local high definition channels. The only channels my cable provider (Click Network in Tacoma, WA) passes unencrypted are the standard definition cable channels with commercials and the local stations in high definition. If you can live without the on-screen television guide, I would recommend getting a Cable Card.


----------



## tveli

troj, that 480p vs 1080i specification on sonystyle page appears to be erroneous on its face, and self-contradictory. I think the spec is trying to tell us that the set can render either 480p or 1080i without any conversion/scaling.

I note that other specs on that page seem to have appeared as if someone scanned in the manual without understanding the content. "vertical correction, -5 to +5".


"Our vertical correction goes from -11 to +11."


----------



## RalphArch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Trojita* /forum/post/19547275
> 
> 
> Someone offered me a XBR960 for $300 and I am contemplating taking the offer. I mainly want the TV for old school gaming and to have the best CRT that will be likely ever made.
> 
> 
> Will I need to get a set top box to get most of the channels from my cable company. Because I see that there is a QAM tuner included in the XBR960 but I don't see it saying anything about encryption which I believe the local cable company is scrambling the channels above 8 on most older televisions.
> 
> 
> Also I thought this was weird so I thought I'd check with you guys
> 
> http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/...specifications
> 
> 
> It says on the specifications that the display resolution is 480p for some reason but that its native resolution is 1080i.
> 
> 
> Also I see that the XBR960 doesn't have a VGA port, is this correct?



On the cable card - it may be problemmatic anyway. Althouigh I finally got Verizon (FIOS) to successfully set my 960 up, they had to go through a number of cards to get it working. And now they are claiming incompatibility and no longer supporting the older cable card displays so this is definitely an orphaned situation.


That said - there are other options to feed it, such as component/HDMI from cable co STB or HTPC and other devices with clear QAM tuners that will output to the set.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

The 960 is still the best HD set available and was ahead of it's time. For example, I've seen where Sharp is selling a new LCD with four color technology - addition of the yellow to the red, green and blue. The 960 had that six years ago. It's black and contrast levels are tops (anything more is just laboratory test results used for sales hype). And it plays back up-converted DVDs superior to flat screens thanks to it's super fine pitch tube.


Know I'm just repeating what we all know but still ind it amazing that on black Friday, with all the hype going on about how great these new televisions are, that they still can't recreate what the 960 can do. In gaining large screens, consumers have lost a bit on picture quality. That's one thing the industry won't tell them - CRT is still the best.


----------



## Trojita

Thank you for all of the information you guys.


The main reason I wanted to get a CRT is pretty much because I heard this was the best CRT made. The problem is that I wanted to get this CRT for playing old school games on systems like the PS1 and PS2. Mostly all SD games with a 4:3 ratio.


The main thing that had me wanting to get a CRT was that I tried to play Chrono Cross on my Pioneer Kuro 5020fd and it looked pretty bad. Maybe the game just looks bad in general I just don't remember it looking that way, but it looked even worse. Plus I was kind of worried of burn-in because I could not configure the TV so that I didn't have any black bars around the side.


I have my old CRT at my parents house which is a KV-32FS30
http://www.amazon.com/Sony-KV-32FS32.../dp/B0002O76Z6 


I would be keeping the XBR960 at my parents house until I would get my own place in the future (I live with roommates in a townhome).


Would the 960XBR or my old tv be better with the type of games I want to play on it? I want the best picture possible for those games.


Someone offered me a XBR960 that the person says is in good condition for $300. I just don't want to spend my money or hurt my families backs iff it won't be worth it for me. For most other stuff I'm using my 50 inch Kuro.


I saw someone on here had complained about the HDMI port, is there anything wrong with it? Also is it worth it to wait for a XBR960N?


----------



## Snooptonydog

I must say, I've had this beast for some time and got used to the PQ = esp. the non HD.



Obviously, the HD on big screen will be great, but I will miss the sure fire PQ this old beast rendered.


I'll always remember it - thanks to the fact I got a hernia from trying to carry it down the stairs.


----------



## Trojita

Ugh sorry about all of the questions but I had one more. Do these crts ever degrade in quality overtime? Like they lose sharpness or color or just plain not work anymore? The tv was made in 2004 so that has been 6 years at least.


----------



## tveli

Troj, good questions.

Any CRT can go out of alignment, colors smooshed or geometry wacked out. Mine is the precursor model to the xbr960, 9 years and counting. I've had to adjust the geometry in service menu. Color is fine but I've gone for months with one of the component/DVR cables disconnected, without noticing, since I have green-deficient vision. :|

Others have verified that it is possible to adjust the color to be correct as long as the component cables are all connected.


As for the $300 xbr960, if you offer the dude $75 for tv he might take it. Lugging these TVs is quite a chore - I hope you are pals with multiple guys who have trapezoidal heads/necks.


The XBR960 is fantastic for 16:9 gaming especially with a PS3. I'm pretty sure you must acquire a PS3 asap too, so avoid santa's naughty-list.

For 4:3 DTV CRT gaming, look for used panny 32FX55, 32XF55, 32FX56, 32XF55 - these are the earliest panasonic digital CRTs, a 480p 4:3 EDTV - fantastic for gaming with a PS3 via component video cables.

Also there are vintage sony 4:3 480p EDTVs or 4:3 XBR sony 1080i HDTVs out there. Probably you and a suitable number of trapezoid-domed pals could get them for free if you offered to lug them away. They have 32" or 36" 4:3 tubes and weigh 200 or 236 lbs like the 16:9 XBR CRT HDTVs.


in local news, a pal has replaced his xbr960 with a monster LCD/plasma/something but is reluctant to sell the xbr960 - I'm first on the list to get it however ! ! ! !


----------



## salty

I'm pretty sure the "n" model is the same as the non n model. It might have been with an antiglare coating added? Same exact Super Fine Pitch tube though.


I had myself and two strong friends move mine up to my third floor apartment. It's heavy, but very much worth the effort. A hand truck helps a lot too. I put it on a heavy duty rolling cart, so I move it from room to room. Anyhow, I watch it every day-awesome tv!


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *salty* /forum/post/19554674
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure the "n" model is the same as the non n model. It might have been with an antiglare coating added? Same exact Super Fine Pitch tube though.
> 
> 
> I had myself and two strong friends move mine up to my third floor apartment. It's heavy, but very much worth the effort. A hand truck helps a lot too. I put it on a heavy duty rolling cart, so I move it from room to room. Anyhow, I watch it every day-awesome tv!



The N model has the anti-glare coating inside the screen whereas the original non-N models have the coating on the screen. The advantage of the N model is only that one does not have to worry about a part of the coating coming off when cleaning the screen.


----------



## Red Nightmare




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Trojita* /forum/post/19551103
> 
> 
> Would the 960XBR or my old tv be better with the type of games I want to play on it? I want the best picture possible for those games.
> 
> 
> Someone offered me a XBR960 that the person says is in good condition for $300. I just don't want to spend my money or hurt my families backs iff it won't be worth it for me. For most other stuff I'm using my 50 inch Kuro.



playing older games on it is kind of a mixed bag. some games have old graphical tricks that are more apparent in higer res. for example, dithering effects in zelda wind waker and twilight princess. and snes games...well they look pretty much like what an unfiltered emulatior would do, which i personally don't like. but on the plus side, colors just look so much better on this tv than any i've had before, and i didn't even calibrate it yet. but it looks like you've already got a decent tv, you might not notice much of a difference. and 300 is kind of steep for it. it was a paaaaain in the ass to move this thing.


----------



## unclepauly

I'd pay 300 for one of these any day of the week. Any body near toledo oh got one ill take it. like red said colors are just crazy on this thing, nothing can match it except a calibrated oled. black levels contrast etc its ****ing fantastic. got one in my bedroom and looking to get one for backup when my bedroom set dies(as oled looks to be about 15 years out). kuro is nice an all but it still doesn't have that punch


----------



## pharmerphil

My wife & I are an older couple that watch way too much TV. We've had this Sony for about 5 yrs. & really enjoy the color & sharpness of picture BUT we need/want a bigger screen for our ageing eyes. Not a gamer & use Charter cable for our supplier. Our TV is on probably on 12 hours a day 4 or 5 days a wk, that's about 3,000 hours a yr. We sit about 8 to 10 ft. away from the TV screen so I'm looking for a 54" to 58" screen (probably Plasma since our house is a darker "berm' home). Here are the 3 sets (affordable for our $1,000 to $1,500 price range) I'm currently focusing on: Samsung PN58C550, Panasonic TC-P58S2, & the LG 60PK550. My primary goal is a clear, sharp, picture with good color quality, that will last at least 5 yrs. I know whatever I buy will not match the XBR in these attributes but I'm willing to sacrifice a little quality for a bigger screen. I respect the views & opinions of the folks here at AVS as I've learned so much from reading MANY posts here through the yrs. My question to these more experienced, TV knowledgable people, is: am I on the right track with these 3 TV's I've mentioned or am I overlooking other qualified models? Remember my budget range limits some of the upper scale models. Of the 3 I have listed, is there any particular one that you would recommend, or is there any I should avoid? Any information or suggestions you can provide will be sincerely appreciated. This will be a pretty big purchase for us & we just don't want to make a mistake in our decision. Thanks!


----------



## hemogoblin

My 960 recently got the 6/7 led blinks and I am at a crossroads. I might as well try to repair it for the $20 cost of the IC's but I am starting to look at current TV sets.


Hope I dont need to replace this thing, but I have been without TV in my bedroom for almost a few weeks and its hurting.


And to whoever asked about SD gaming on the 960, its the reason why I got the 960 in the first place. I pretty much every console and they all look amazing on the 960. I was planning on making some custom arcade cabinets with the 960 as my main CRT piece for old games, but it way too huge for that.


Snes, Saturn, PSX, DC, via S-Video look GREAT. Xbox 1 and PS2 via component look GREAT. And I have yet to see any tv play SD DVD's as good as the 960. It really makes old widescren SD DVD's look almost a good as BluRay.


----------



## Polarican

Anyone in the Central NJ area looking to pick one or even 2 of these sets can PM me... I have 2 to sell. Both have stands, one stand (after market) I picked up after purchase and the other is the matching stand that I picked up with it. I have the original remotes and owners manual for both as well... $300 for xbr960 with after market stand and $325 for xbr960 with matching sony stand...


----------



## kisong

I am the original owner of a 34XBR960.

We are moving in a few weeks ...

We live in Laurel, MD and want to get rid of this amazing set. It has provided years of the best quality picture.


It is in excellent condition, except for a slight crack down the middle of the screen. The crack is about 1-2 inches long, vertically.


I would like to get rid of this set for $250. This includes the following:


1 Sony 34XBR960.

1 Original remote.

1 original matching stand.


Again, it is in excellent condition, except for the slight crack on the screen.

Please PM me for details. I'm looking to get rid of it ASAP. Thanks!


----------



## E63SB

I had the 960 a while back and moved it from my house to a downtown LA 10th floor studio I had rented. I had to hire a couple of guys hanging out in front of Home Depot










Then when I stopped using the studio, I ended up giving it away to a tenant on the same floor. They owned a post production company so at least it went to somebody who appreciated it. It was just too much effort to move it again.


That's the problem with these sets. Just too heavy and unmanageable. But I ended up once again with the last of the 970 versions and still have it. I think I ordered almost one of the last few left (had a good discount because I worked for Sony/BMG Music at the time.)


It still sits in an extra room in the house hooked up to a Denon Blu-Ray and an older stereo system, and a PS3. The other night I turned it on for the first time in months (I've been primarily using an LCD in another room these days.) Wow, what an image. I just bought a new Sony NX810 LCD (waiting for it to arrive) and I know it won't compare to the 970.


TV quality really went downhill with the loss of the CRT. It's too bad that there are some people who have never experienced a top quality HD CRT. The industry has effectively been dumbing-down consumers (and with MP3 music quality, too.) There's absolutely no comparison between a high end CRT and any current technology. On the other hand the new stuff is all so convenient.......


----------



## whoever

My Man!...

You be soooo right. I went out of my way to get one of these several years ago. We use it only for sports and DVD & BR movies. (We don't do Oprah or Doom or any other drek).There is NOTHING like black black and proper color - after calibration by Greg, of course. It is astounding still. and I figure it will be 10 years before solid state tech catches up, if ever. What is the BS about "convenience"? You still gotta sit the proper distance away from a set. Nobody cares about PQ anymore. That's their problem. I stay happy.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

I am so glad to know that I am not alone when it comes to praising the 960 and contending that nothing today still equals the high quality of CRT technology when done right. Flat screen technology (Plasma, LCD, LED, DLP) does overwhelm the viewer when it comes to big screen size, however, those screens lack so much detail and dimension (especially on live sporting events, national geographic specials, even news broadcasts) that it actually appears like something enlarged through binoculars - bigger but with no perception of depth. On the 960's 34 inch screen I can see minute facial blemishes that are smoothed over on the 55 inch LCD/LED in our office.


People don't realize what they have given up for size. I'm so glad I chose the 960 back in 2005 after reading all the reviews when I had no idea how much one gives up with flat screens. I've read where some of today's high-end Plasma models can now match the 960's quality but even those lack the three-dimensional effect that CRT technology can provide.


----------



## Summit HDTV

We still enjoy our xbr960! This is an awesome display when given a little TLC. Like any CRT based device a thorough ISF calibration with CRT only enhancements sings, but this display even more so. The color decoder and grayscale linearity are very, very good. I think this display represents the heyday of Sony Trinitron XBR technology. We bought ours from a seller in CL and it seems the one we got had minimal use and was treated well.


Joe


----------



## tulanejames

I am the original owner of a 2/06 build 34xbr960N. I live in Dayton, OH and I'm looking to sell the TV and matching stand for $350. Picture is excellent with a few cosmetic blemishes on the plastic surround. Local pick-up or willing to meet. Any questions please PM me.


----------



## DSperber

Gotta chime in myself...


I just got back from a week in Chicago visiting family for the holiday. During that time we had a "crisis", in that the 50XBR1 (SXRD) Sony LCD set that my sister had bought in 2006 apparently developed what's known as the "optical block (OB) problem". This results in a very greenish overall screen color, though it can evolve into some much worse symptoms like "green blob", "stains", "stripes", etc.


The OB symptom is now an acknowledged design defect from Sony on these SXRD technology sets, and due to lawsuits and class-action litigation Sony actually has pretty much extended the 1-year warranty on these failed sets to "infinity" (although they did theoretically only agree to a 3 or 4 year extension on the warranties, running out during 2009 and 2010).


I remember setting up my sister's brand new XBR1 back in 2006, and just being stunned by its picture! I remember writing here back at that time that if I ever found myself forced to or wanting to replace my 34XBR960 that I would definitely go with one of these SXRD sets.


Well, here it is 4 years later... and my sister's 50XBR1 has now died, and my own 34XBR960 is just as gorgeous to look at as ever.


Anyway, on the Sony story... I didn't learn about the whole OB story until after I had already gone out to ABT (on Black Friday) and acquired for my sister a new 55HX800, which is an entry-level but latest technology "3D-ready" (240hz edge-lit LED) set (although she has no intent of activating and using that technology with additional dollars). The set arrived on Tuesday while I was still there, I tweaked it into what I felt to be "visual perfection", and it looks gorgeous!


After the Friday purchase and before the Tuesday delivery, I learned from AVS forum discussions about the OB issue, and what Sony was offering as compensation. Turns out they were offering replacement current-generation TVs at HUGE discounts (or even FREE!), with prices depending on what you wanted to get from them. Turns out the 55HX800 was being offered as one of those "warranty replacements" for the 50XBR1, at an astounding price of $425+tax. Considering we'd just paid $1797+tax (discounted by ABT from I think the $2400 original retail price), there's no question I would have obviously preferred to utilize the Sony offer... had I been able to make it happen while I was there.


All Sony wanted was "proof" of the OB problem, either by (a) having a Sony authorized tech come out at owner's expense to evaluate and concur, or (b) take photos of the symptom and send them in along with the serial number sticker from the back of the 50XBR1 and Sony would evaluate and decide. I just couldn't make all of that happen while I was there, and thus we decided to just go ahead with the ABT purchase plan.


In retrospect, I clearly should have ALSO gone ahead with the Sony plan (worst case, it's NOT the OB problem and they do NOT make a 55HX800 appear at my sister's for $425+tax). If it really was the OB problem, the Sony-provided set could have been re-sold on eBay or Craigslist and proceeds returned to my sister as kind of an additional "Sony rebate" off of the ABT purchase.


Oh well... did not happen that way. I feel like an idiot for not thinking of this before ABT carted away the old 50XBR1.



Anyway, because I'd just finished a very "close encounter" with the 50XBR1 and the new 55HX800, and trying to get both sets to "visual perfection" (color, brightness, contrast, tint, blacks, whites, skin tone, etc.) when I got back to LA and started getting caught up watching HD programs on my 34XBR960 that had beenrecorded in my absence, I couldn't help but being truly astonished at just how remarkable the CRT-provided XBR960 image is.


I had watched a fair number of different shows at my sister's while working on both the failing XBR1 and new HX800, and these were shows I was familiar with from my own XBR960 so that I knew what they should look like. Well, when I got back home with the HX800 images fresh in my mind I really could not believe how amazing the XBR960 is by comparison... it's a completely different image.


The XBR960 looks "real", whereas the HX800 looks like an LCD image. For example, no matter how I tried to tweak I just couldn't get "Chelsea Lately" on the HX800 to look real and natural. The set for the show is very color-saturated, and I just couldn't get the balance right to make the skin, clothes, and set all look natural and real. In contract, on my XBR960 [as has often been said] it looks like I have a "window" looking out into that TV studio, it's that real and 3D-like! No artifacts of any kind (naturally I run with SHARPNESS=MIN on my XBR960), perfect detail and shadow and color and black and white and skin, and it just doesn't look like TV. It looks like "film" (in a good way, of course).



So, fingers crossed that my XBR960 continues to survive and be well, to live long and prosper.


No question the finest visual experience one can have in the HDTV and BluRay world. Admittedly, watching "Toy Story 3" in 1080p/24fps on the new HX800 at my sister's was pretty fantastic, but for 720p/1080i HDTV (and even BluRay at 1080i), the XBR960 is just "best there ever was".


And let's not forget the amazing job it does displaying 480i SD! Looking at a 480i SD channel on my sister's 55HX800 is like looking at a comic book picture compared to what the XBR960 does for the same show.


IMHO


----------



## E63SB

I agree. But it's too bad we're stuck with tiny screens in this brave new big screen world. When I die and go to heaven they'll have a 60" Sony XBR960 CRT waiting for me.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Knew about the OB problem with the Sony series from five years ago. In fact, Silent Era ( www.silentera.com ) put out a blasting editorial opinion warning consumers about their experience with the 60 inch set which they used for evaluating new silent film releases. It seems no replacement part was even available.


Don't know if this would work but do you think Sony would compensate for part of the purchase of that new set if you advise them that you were unaware of the civil action settlement until after the purchase of the new set? Your sister can have a technician come over to confirm the defect.


But don't blame yourself for not realizing there was a civil law suit. You did not own the set and who would but the owners would actually be aware of it? Also, did Sony contact all owners regarding the settlement or was rather one finding out about it on his or her own?


Your description of the LCD is right on. Won't complain about the colors or sharpness but there is definitely something artificial about the technology's picture, even with the best of sets. Nor does it give detail. And as we've all said, no other type set makes one think they are looking through a window. Not with every object looking on top of the other (might be why these new sets are all called "flat screens"







).


Again, don't mean to put down any of the new technologies, but I get angry whenever I hear those in the industry refer to CRT technology as being antiquedated. I see it more like a fine wine being better with age.


----------



## iforsevilla

So I finally caved and got a bluray player--sony dbp-bx37- and tried out my first bluray movie on my 960. My first impression: While playing a bluray movie rental switching from 2 feeds video 7 hdmi-1080i and video 5 component-480i has some difference but not much. I was expecting more I guess. But definitely, there is more detail on hdmi. And when comparing with dvds, blueray disc surely has more detail and maybe less artifacts. You can see more texture on the faces of characters. Need to watch more bd movies to get a better comparison. So all together a good upgrade. However, I will still wait for discounted bd movies and will not shell out for a full/new release prices. This has probably been discussed here before but too lazy to look back...What do you guys think?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *iforsevilla* /forum/post/19607697
> 
> 
> My first impression: While playing a bluray movie rental switching from 2 feeds video 7 hdmi-1080i and video 5 component-480i has some difference but not much. I was expecting more I guess.



Why would component video be at 480i? Maybe with your old SD DVD player that did no upconverting, you were delivering 480i to the 960. But your new BluRay player is probably delivering 1080i to the 960, and that's absolutely the case if you're playing a BluRay disc.


If it's a BluRay movie I would think you're delivering 1080i from your BluRayplayer to both HDMI and component video outputs. These are nearly identical when viewed on the 960.


So your HDMI (input7) and component video (input5) are both displaying the same 1080i source. That could certainly explain the very small difference in image that you see.


However I agree that in my opinion HDMI is definitely the "punchier" of the two, and I haven't used my component video input5 for anything in maybe three years now... certainly not since I acquired a Yamaha A/V receiver through which everything HDMI is now routed.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/19605433
> 
> 
> Don't know if this would work but do you think Sony would compensate for part of the purchase of that new set if you advise them that you were unaware of the civil action settlement until after the purchase of the new set? Your sister can have a technician come over to confirm the defect.



I actually proposed that idea to them last Monday (between the Saturday purchase at ABT and the Tuesday scheduled delivery of the 55HX800). They agreed it was the very set they were offering to me for $425 (if the OB problem on our 50XBR1 was real) but they didn't have "cash rebate on a previous purchase" as part of their customer solutions on this issue. You had to get the set from Sony, not via a retailer to whom you paid some kind of retail or discounted price with a rebate check from Sony.




> Quote:
> But don't blame yourself for not realizing there was a civil law suit. You did not own the set and who would but the owners would actually be aware of it? Also, did Sony contact all owners regarding the settlement or was rather one finding out about it on his or her own?



As I understand the AVS thread on the subject, nobody was notified of the class-action settlement. Only when you contacted Sony because of the serious defects were you advised.




> Quote:
> Your description of the LCD is right on. Won't complain about the colors or sharpness but there is definitely something artificial about the technology's picture, even with the best of sets. Nor does it give detail. And as we've all said, no other type set makes one think they are looking through a window. Not with every object looking on top of the other (might be why these new sets are all called "flat screens").



Agreed.




> Quote:
> Again, don't mean to put down any of the new technologies, but I get angry whenever I hear those in the industry refer to CRT technology as being antiquated. I see it more like a fine wine being better with age.



I see it like a Stradivarious violin. They don't make it anymore, and they never will be able to duplicate its quality. Like magic.


----------



## iforsevilla




DSperber said:


> Why would component video be at 480i? Maybe with your old SD DVD player that did no upconverting, you were delivering 480i to the 960. But your new BluRay player is probably delivering 1080i to the 960, and that's absolutely the case if you're playing a BluRay disc.
> 
> 
> Well, when I switch from video 5 it says 480i 16X9 and when I go to video 7 it says 1080i 16X9. I just got this player and I am still playing around with all its options. I can change the video 5 output from the dvd player to show 1080i but the bd player has only one option for connection for all the video 1-7 and I like to stay on the hdmi connection options. Anyways, its all good. Some improvement alltogether. I'm a happycamper.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *iforsevilla* /forum/post/19607931
> 
> 
> Well, when I switch from video 5 it says 480i 16X9 and when I go to video 7 it says 1080i 16X9. I just got this player and I am still playing around with all its options. I can change the video 5 output from the dvd player to show 1080i but the bd player has only one option for connection for all the video 1-7 and I like to stay on the hdmi connection options.



I confess, I'm still confused.


Are you using one player or two? You reference a "DVD player" and "BD player", so that's two.


But only one, the BD player, can play BluRay discs. Presumably that's got the HDMI connection path to the 960 (doesn't sound like you have an A/V receiver involved).


So I'm still not clear on what's CURRENTLY using the component video path to INPUT5... is it the component video output of the BD player? Or is it the component video output of your DVD player (which can't play BluRay discs, so how can you compare it using a new BluRay movie?)?


I can't imagine that a BluRay player would be set up to deliver 480i output over any of its outputs. I don't think it would even have 480i outputs, but rather only HDMI and component video for HD delivery. Only your old DVD player would probably even have that option in its setup.


Not to belabor the discussion, but for closure can you please clarify your setup, and exactly what you're testing with and comparing.


Thanks.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




iforsevilla said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/19607754
> 
> 
> Why would component video be at 480i? Maybe with your old SD DVD player that did no upconverting, you were delivering 480i to the 960. But your new BluRay player is probably delivering 1080i to the 960, and that's absolutely the case if you're playing a BluRay disc.
> 
> 
> Well, when I switch from video 5 it says 480i 16X9 and when I go to video 7 it says 1080i 16X9. I just got this player and I am still playing around with all its options. I can change the video 5 output from the dvd player to show 1080i but the bd player has only one option for connection for all the video 1-7 and I like to stay on the hdmi connection options. Anyways, its all good. Some improvement alltogether. I'm a happycamper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am guessing you are connected to both video 5 (via component) and video 7 (HDMI). If so, is your bluray player set to output only at 480i via component and not 1080i? If so, that would be one way to compare picture quality between the two sources by having the 960's line doubler do the upscaling of the 480i output (rather than the bluray player) via input 5.
> 
> 
> If so, there are some reasons as to why you see some difference but not as much as you expected. First, being only a 34 inch set, the difference between an up-converted DVD (which in essence you have created) and bluray might be minimal compared to larger screens. Another is that CRT technology (as we have all been stating) still brings out the best of all source material so you're getting great picture quality on DVDs even at 480i The third, of course, is that the 960 is a reference set and in turn does even more wonders upscaling 480i/p standard definition than any other HD CRT, let alone flat screen. Combined, this might be why the jump to bluray seems negligible. I know my up-converted DVDs look fantastic on the 960 and much better than I've seen in stores.
> 
> 
> Joe
Click to expand...


----------



## JA Fant

Season's Greetings,


I am ready to connect my Pioneer Elite 59 AVi DVD player to my Sony w/ a HDMI cable.

Is there a particular way to set this up?


JA


----------



## pharmerphil

I originally posted a question here on 11/29/10, thread #7254, seeking info. on a larger screen TV to replace my 960. Got it narrowed down to (my budget dictates these 2 TV's due to prices) a Panny TC-P58S2 or a Samsung PN58C550. Both these are now available in the $1,200 range. Could one, or some, of you please help supply me with info. as to which one of these two TV's would/could be the best way to go? I'm an amateur with TV's & both these sets seem to be very comparable as far as their specs. go. Just trying to get some knowledgable information to help me with my purchasing decision. Thanks.


----------



## Snooptonydog

I just got the 65 s2 and am pretty happy with it.


Don't expect SD to be as good as your old cathode.


HD is good but not quite as sharp as your old cathode.


Blu Ray is great. No complaints there.


Basically, you sacrifice some video quality for a nice big screen and very little video quality is lost on the HD side of things.


I'm happy with my 65 s2. Nice pic right out of box. All's I did was drop the contrast down. No calibrating, not really breaking it in (just avoiding black bars and no ps3 gaming yet).


Also, bet your 58 inch will have a little better video quality due to slightly smaller screen than 65 inch.


Unless you are a videophile, I just don't see why I would want to spend thousands more for the latest and greatest. I also don't care about 3d tv - it's a big gimmick.


----------



## pharmerphil

Snooptonydog, Thanks for the response & info. That's exactly the kind of answers I'm looking for. I too do not care about 3D, apps, etc. That's why the S2 & PN550 seem to fit my needs. I've come to the realization that none of the new sets will match the quality picture/colors that my CRT XBR960 provides. Just need a bigger screen for my old, ageing eyes. Thanks again for the response & if anyone else here at AVS has any info. on the 2 sets I am "shopping" pls. advise.


----------



## KBI




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Summit HDTV* /forum/post/19599461
> 
> 
> We still enjoy our xbr960! This is an awesome display when given a little TLC. Like any CRT based device a thorough ISF calibration with CRT only enhancements sings, but this display even more so. The color decoder and grayscale linearity are very, very good. I think this display represents the heyday of Sony Trinitron XBR technology. We bought ours from a seller in CL and it seems the one we got had minimal use and was treated well.
> 
> 
> Joe



Yes.. I first seen the 960 at CC watching a HD feed of spider man 2.. It blew me away. Still the best HD picture I seen for a 34inch display.. I was in love with the 960.. I WANTED it for 6 yrs.. Price was a concern back then.. Plus the weight & dimensions.. To be frank, I'd still play 2,000 for a NEW & fully calibrated 960.. To me, they are the TV to get.. I searched craigslist & got the 2nd best thing.. The 34inchXBR910.. For 80.00.. I nearly feel off the couch.. I am still looking out for a 960..If I could only have one TV it would be the 960...


----------



## Joseph Dubin

KBI,


Don't know if you were referring to HD sets in general or specifically the 960 but the original retail price was $2,200 (in July, 2005 we paid $2,000 plus an additional $350 for the stand) and I recall that the bigger screen plasmas and 32 - 37 inch lcds at the time went for more than $2,000 (for brand names).


So many were immersed in bigger and flatter screens that unlike you, they failed to realize that based upon performance the less expensive 960 was a bargain and better than anything they could get at the time (and still so today).


----------



## Suhaib

hey guys,


i want to finally buy one of these hd crts. xbr 960 is unavailable, however there are plenty of hs420 sets. are these pretty decent despite the lack of superfine pitch? more importantly, will these sets look good @480p and do they display real line for line 480p? thanks a lot!

i have a plasma, but i'd like a crt for another room.


----------



## KBI

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Suhaib* 
hey guys,


i want to finally buy one of these hd crts. xbr 960 is unavailable, however there are plenty of hs420 sets. are these pretty decent despite the lack of superfine pitch? more importantly, will these sets look good @480p and do they display real line for line 480p? thanks a lot!

i have a plasma, but i'd like a crt for another room.
I'd hold out for a 955/910/960. They all have SFP technology.. It's worth the wait..


----------



## Suhaib

thanks, i just may do that. $350 for an xbr960 worth it? versus $100 for a 34hs420..


----------



## CRTFTW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Suhaib* /forum/post/19656057
> 
> 
> thanks, i just may do that. $350 for an xbr960 worth it? versus $100 for a 34hs420..



It's all about what you can afford. I got a 30hs420 for $50 and I'm having a blast playing games and watching movies on it.


I figure that's not too much money to put down to enjoy a nice HD CRT until I find a SFP set going for a good price.


----------



## Suhaib

Yeah, thanks. I'll go ahead with the cheaper one for now and if the lack of SFP bothers me I can wait again for one of those.


----------



## KBI




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Suhaib* /forum/post/19656057
> 
> 
> thanks, i just may do that. $350 for an xbr960 worth it? versus $100 for a 34hs420..



960 is the better deal.. 350 is very worth it.. Better blacks, higher resolution, etc.. They are the best CRT Sony ever made..


----------



## Joseph Dubin

A tip for those who are new to the 960 - I've found unplugging the unit every few weeks for about five minutes actually helps restore picture quality a slight bit. This might not be the case for others but perhaps my picture slightly loses it's punch due to magnetism not yet strong enough to be seen on the screen building up which is eliminated by re-activating the automatic degaussing system at full power. That's my guess because I do get sudden, noticeable magnetic blotches on the screen every so often.


Anybody else find this to be of help?


Joe


----------



## Kool-aid23

I would have to agree. The reset of the degaussing system does slightly improve the image on my set as well. I usually unplug it twice a month.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Kool-aid23* 
I would have to agree. The reset of the degaussing system does slightly improve the image on my set as well. I usually unplug it twice a month.
Glad to know it wasn't wishful thinking on my part.


And it's not that the picture looks that less vivid before resetting the degaussing system since image quality is effected gradually. It's more that once it is reset, we recognize the difference.


Going to take your advice and do it twice instead of once a month.


----------



## MMMT1986

Any idea how or where to get the SU-34XBR3 stand besides craigslist? I am in the Chicagoland area if anyone has one in good shape.


----------



## The Lizard King




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MMMT1986* /forum/post/19696656
> 
> 
> Any idea how or where to get the SU-34XBR3 stand besides craigslist? I am in the Chicagoland area if anyone has one in good shape.



In my experience, the only people selling the factory stand for a SONY TV are also selling the TV.


TLK


----------



## itachi183

I'm also wondering if the XBR960 displays 480P when you use DVDs with component, or hdmi or such. Or does it upscale it to 1080i? I've had bad experinces with upscales, and rather just watch the content at it's native resolution. So does the XBR960 play 480P content and fill the screen like normal 480p EDTV's do?


Also, I have a chance to get one of these, I was trying to get it for a lower price but I found one around 200$ and think I'll dive in it after reading some responses in this thread. One thing I'd like to know is, What are the most common problems / malfunctions with this set? And does it have a high failure rate or anything? I'm going to pick it up in person and before I do I'd like to check it out there to make sure they arn't selling me some messed up set lol



Thanks


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *itachi183* /forum/post/19710065
> 
> 
> I'm also wondering if the XBR960 displays 480P when you use DVDs with component, or hdmi or such. Or does it upscale it to 1080i? I've had bad experinces with upscales, and rather just watch the content at it's native resolution. So does the XBR960 play 480P content and fill the screen like normal 480p EDTV's do?
> 
> 
> Also, I have a chance to get one of these, I was trying to get it for a lower price but I found one around 200$ and think I'll dive in it after reading some responses in this thread. One thing I'd like to know is, What are the most common problems / malfunctions with this set? And does it have a high failure rate or anything? I'm going to pick it up in person and before I do I'd like to check it out there to make sure they arn't selling me some messed up set lol
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks



It has excellent upscaling capabilities - my VHS tapes never looked better. It also did a very good job on playing back 480p DVDs through component, however, there was better improvement using an up-converting DVD player via HDMI.


Any piece of equipment can develop problems but I don't know if one can say the 960 has any that are inherent. It would be beneficial to get it properly calibrated, if not by a professional, that at least by following the suggested service menu settings found in the Sony Service Code forum. Proper service adjustments are critical to getting outstanding performance. Often those made by factory technicians are way off -- for example, after I got my 960 I realized the over-scan was incorrectly set, cutting off information along the sides which created too soft an image due to the picture being stretched. After making other service adjustments based on recommendations and my own observations using external 10801/p test patterns it was almost like getting a new TV.


One bit of caution. If you pick get a 960 it will have a non-glare coating on the outside of the picture tube, whereas the 960N has one inside the tube instead. No real difference in picture quality but with the external coating, one has to be careful not use anything abrasive when cleaning the screen cause it could cause some of the coating to come off. It's happened to me but fortunately, it's a small area toward the corner and not noticeable from most viewing angles when watching (one can see it more with the TV off, but who cares?).


Hope this info helps.


Joe


----------



## itachi183




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/19710267
> 
> 
> It has excellent upscaling capabilities - my VHS tapes never looked better. It also did a very good job on playing back 480p DVDs through component, however, there was better improvement using an up-converting DVD player via HDMI.
> 
> 
> Any piece of equipment can develop problems but I don't know if one can say the 960 has any that are inherent. It would be beneficial to get it properly calibrated, if not by a professional, that at least by following the suggested service menu settings found in the Sony Service Code forum. Proper service adjustments are critical to getting outstanding performance. Often those made by factory technicians are way off -- for example, after I got my 960 I realized the over-scan was incorrectly set, cutting off information along the sides which created too soft an image due to the picture being stretched. After making other service adjustments based on recommendations and my own observations using external 10801/p test patterns it was almost like getting a new TV.
> 
> 
> One bit of caution. If you pick get a 960 it will have a non-glare coating on the outside of the picture tube, whereas the 960N has one inside the tube instead. No real difference in picture quality but with the external coating, one has to be careful not use anything abrasive when cleaning the screen cause it could cause some of the coating to come off. It's happened to me but fortunately, it's a small area toward the corner and not noticeable from most viewing angles when watching (one can see it more with the TV off, but who cares?).
> 
> 
> Hope this info helps.
> 
> 
> Joe



Thanks for the tip about the service menu. I looked up and bookmarked a few sites for future references about it, got pretty confused from the little I read though. Could you link me to the suggested settings? I can't seem to find the forum


I've calibrated my IPS LCD (by eye) with lagom lcd test site and got pretty accurate results, is calibrating CRTs similar to LCD calibration? Would I pop in one of those DVDs with a bunch of calibration test images, then change the brightness/rgb/contrast etc?


About the SD stuff, I'm just worried that my SD won't look as good as it does on my 19" 4:3 TV currently since it'll be up-scaled, I have alot of 4:3 DVDs from shows and planning to watch them on this new bigger TV (lol get a HD 16:9 to watch 4:3 SD) but nah I also got a lot of HD and wide screen stuff i plan to watch too.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *itachi183* /forum/post/19711877
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tip about the service menu. I looked up and bookmarked a few sites for future references about it, got pretty confused from the little I read though. Could you link me to the suggested settings? I can't seem to find the forum
> 
> 
> I've calibrated my IPS LCD (by eye) with lagom lcd test site and got pretty accurate results, is calibrating CRTs similar to LCD calibration? Would I pop in one of those DVDs with a bunch of calibration test images, then change the brightness/rgb/contrast etc?
> 
> 
> About the SD stuff, I'm just worried that my SD won't look as good as it does on my 19" 4:3 TV currently since it'll be up-scaled, I have alot of 4:3 DVDs from shows and planning to watch them on this new bigger TV (lol get a HD 16:9 to watch 4:3 SD) but nah I also got a lot of HD and wide screen stuff i plan to watch too.



AVS has a forum called "Sony Service Codes" and within the first few pages are spreadsheets that give both the Sony suggested setting and the preferred setting by the user (which seems to be a consensus among most). Just remember to first write down the setting that will be on the 960 so you can always return to them should a mistake be made. It might seem overwhelming at first but it is really quite easy to navigate through them with practice.


There will be a section devoted on how to adjust the geometry and suggest you follow those steps. Yes, a set-up disc would be helpful as long as it has a cross-hatch pattern. It would be better if you also have bluray or at least an up-converting DVD player so the test patterns for color, brightness, etc. will be for 1080i.


To be honest, even though it is a bigger screen, many of the SD stations look quite good on the 960. I had a 32 inch 4x3 and found no degradation of picture quality. That should not be a worry, whereas on LCDs, SD content is a problem.


After a while, you'll get used to the stretching of 4x3 material to 16x9 and will hardly notice the difference.


----------



## rolf hage

I was working in the service menu to adjust the display for geometry, focus and overscan to accommodate using my laptop as an HTPC. I am only using the HDMI input (Video 7). When I saved the changes, the video source label stayed on in the upper left-hand corner of the screen and I can't get rid of it.

Did I inadvertently make a change in the service menu?

I've done a search and have come up empty.

Thanks in advance for help.


----------



## RobMeyer1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rolf hage* /forum/post/19722887
> 
> 
> I was working in the service menu to adjust the display for geometry, focus and overscan to accommodate using my laptop as an HTPC. I am only using the HDMI input (Video 7). When I saved the changes, the video source label stayed on in the upper left-hand corner of the screen and I can't get rid of it.
> 
> Did I inadvertently make a change in the service menu?
> 
> I've done a search and have come up empty.
> 
> Thanks in advance for help.



Have you tried pressing the "Display" button on the remote? If you accidentally pressed it, that would cause the label to display continuously as you have described.


----------



## PathofNeo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kool-aid23* /forum/post/19682542
> 
> 
> The reset of the degaussing system does slightly improve the image on my set as well.



How do I do that? Just unplug it for awhile?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PathofNeo* /forum/post/19740085
> 
> 
> How do I do that? Just unplug it for awhile?



Yes, for about five minutes. However, don't plug it into a surge protector but rather have the 960 plugged directly into the electric socket instead. A Sony representative told me that although surge protectors are recommended in the manual, total electric power is required when turning the set on in order for the degausser to do the job completely (which surge protectors don't allow).


----------



## Joseph Dubin

With a packed crowd in Pittsburgh, the night sky and the outdoor lights shining brightly on the ice tonight's NHL Winter Classic looks absolutely gorgeous on NBC. So glad it was pushed back to the evening for the beauty of a nocturnal scene. Don't think many other sets could match the picture window detail and naturalness of the picture.


----------



## aroostook67

Unless I have it all wrong, there are 2 options for blu-ray on my 960. Get a blu-ray player that can send in 1080i to my TV ( like the LG BD570 which is factory default set at 1080i but also does 1080p ) or get a blu-ray player that sends 1080p to my tv and the tv downscales it to 1080i.


Do I have this right?


If I do, what is better....straight 1080i or let the tv downscale the 1080p?


Models being considered are the Samsung BD6500 and the LG BD570. both have wireless built in, which is something i must have.


Thanks in advance.


Vince


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aroostook67* /forum/post/19758497
> 
> 
> Unless I have it all wrong, there are 2 options for blu-ray on my 960. Get a blu-ray player that can send in 1080i to my TV ( like the LG BD570 which is factory default set at 1080i but also does 1080p ) or get a blu-ray player that sends 1080p to my tv and the tv downscales it to 1080i.



You've got it wrong.


The 960 does not accept 1080p source. If you send it 1080p source you'll get a black screen. It doesn't downconvert 1080p to 1080i. It just fails to display anything.


It only accepts up to 1080i, so your BluRay player connected to the 960 (or to an AVR and then on to the 960) via HDMI will have to deliver nothing higher than 1080i.


All BluRay players have video setup options, to put out video at assorted resolutions. But in this case, you will have to be sure that the player does NOT put out 1080p (else you'll get black screen on the 960). Just set it at 1080i and leave it.


----------



## TheGigaShadow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aroostook67* /forum/post/19758497
> 
> 
> Unless I have it all wrong, there are 2 options for blu-ray on my 960. Get a blu-ray player that can send in 1080i to my TV ( like the LG BD570 which is factory default set at 1080i but also does 1080p ) or get a blu-ray player that sends 1080p to my tv and the tv downscales it to 1080i.
> 
> 
> Do I have this right?
> 
> 
> If I do, what is better....straight 1080i or let the tv downscale the 1080p?
> 
> 
> Models being considered are the Samsung BD6500 and the LG BD570. both have wireless built in, which is something i must have.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> Vince



I know that the PS3, upon being connected via HDMI, is smart enough to figure out for itself what the best signal to send is.


If you connect it to a TV that only accepts 1080i, it detects that and sets it's self accordingly, assuring you won't end up with a blank screen.


When I connected the PS3 to my 960 it did this and set itself at 1080i output. When I got rid of the 960 and connected it to my new 1080p screen, it reset itself on the first start up to output 1080p.


Are other Blu-ray players (specifically the ones you mentioned) smart enough to do the same? If they are, (and as long as they output 1080i as an option) you don't have to be concerned.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheGigaShadow* /forum/post/19759124
> 
> 
> I know that the PS3, upon being connected via HDMI, is smart enough to figure out for itself what the best signal to send is.
> 
> 
> If you connect it to a TV that only accepts 1080i, it detects that and sets it's self accordingly, assuring you won't end up with a blank screen.
> 
> 
> When I connected the PS3 to my 960 it did this and set itself at 1080i output. When I got rid of the 960 and connected it to my new 1080p screen, it reset itself on the first start up to output 1080p.
> 
> 
> Are other Blu-ray players (specifically the ones you mentioned) smart enough to do the same? If they are, (and as long as they output 1080i as an option) you don't have to be concerned.



Most non-cheapo players are capable of this, as auto-detection (via HDMI handshake) of what the highest resolution is that the connected HDTV is capable of. The player will then upconvert the disc content to that highest possible resolution the HDTV can accept.


This also might be thought of as deciding what needs to be done to limit the output resolution, e.g. to 1080i in the case of the 960, while not limiting anything for modern LCD displays which can accept 1080p.


For SD DVDs, the normal 480p output will be upconverted to whatever this top-end limit turns out to be as determined through the HDMI handshake.


On the other hand, there is also a possible "source direct" video setup option (as there is in my Oppo BDP-83 player), to force the player to NOT upconvert anything!! So 480i/p SD DVDs would be sent out as "native" 480i/p, and NOT upconverted to 1080i or 1080p by the player. Some people feel that the 960 does a fabulous job with SD DVD at 480i/p, producing a better looking result (with its DRC settings) handling 480i/p source than would occur if the source player upconverted to 480i/p to 1080i and fed that upconverted signal to the 960.


I don't know... it's probably just try it for yourself different ways, and go with what looks best to you. I think in the case of modern HDTVs that can accept 1080p directly, BluRay output should just be at 1080p to the set.


But I would speculate that virtually all BluRay players today have this kind of HDMI auto-determined capability of the connected HDTV and will not feed it signal at a resolution that the HDTV cannot display.


----------



## drkashner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *aroostook67* /forum/post/19758497
> 
> 
> Unless I have it all wrong, there are 2 options for blu-ray on my 960. Get a blu-ray player that can send in 1080i to my TV ( like the LG BD570 which is factory default set at 1080i but also does 1080p ) or get a blu-ray player that sends 1080p to my tv and the tv downscales it to 1080i.
> 
> 
> Do I have this right?
> 
> 
> If I do, what is better....straight 1080i or let the tv downscale the 1080p?
> 
> 
> Models being considered are the Samsung BD6500 and the LG BD570. both have wireless built in, which is something i must have.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> Vince



I tried the LG BD590 twice and could not get it to work with my 960. Sent it back twice. I could not get a picture at all through hdmi even though it was set at 1080i. I would get a picture for a second and then a black screen. I could get a picture with component connections, but the BD590 will not send out anything higher than 480p through the component if the video has copy protection. So there was no use in keeping it, since it wouldn't put out HD content to component. I have since got a WD Media Hub which will put out 1080i to component and I rip blu-rays to .mkv files on my pc to output to the WD Hub.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi Dsperber,


While I was very happy with the way the 960 upscaled my DVDs I did find up-conversion from my newer Panasonic DVD recorder produced an even better picture. However, that earlier upscaling had been done using component cables - might experiment to see if a 480p signal fed through HDMI instead would yield better results.


I do know that my DVD-R recordings played back on the 960 look fantastic up-converted to 1080i, unlike my Samsung LCD in the den, which needs to have the output of my Sony up-converting player set to 480p so these discs will not appear harsh with distorted movement as they do at 1080p (no problem up-converting pre-recorded commercial DVDs). Wonder if it has something to do with LCD technology in general.


Joe


----------



## rudebeggar

just saw this 4 free with stand


http://providence.craigslist.org/zip/2146641887.html


----------



## The Lizard King




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rudebeggar* /forum/post/19830992
> 
> 
> just saw this 4 free with stand
> 
> 
> http://providence.craigslist.org/zip/2146641887.html



What makes you think that it's a KD-34XBR960?


TLK


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *The Lizard King* /forum/post/19831319
> 
> 
> What makes you think that it's a KD-34XBR960?
> 
> 
> TLK



Could be a Sony that came out prior to the 960 since seven years could be how long he or she has owned the set which means it could go as far back as 2002.


Even so, why one would post something on Craig's List if the set is broken and they want to give it away for free along with the stand? Easier to simply pay some kids a few dollars each to haul it out of the house. Suspicious.


----------



## IFrederickI

Will a hs510 stand work for the xbr960? I am looking for a Sony stand for this tv and have found that one.


----------



## JA Fant

I have owned my 960 since December 2005.


----------



## kodaker

I got my 960 January 22 2005 and still love it.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

I got mine on August 5 2005 and will not part with it for anything. I ordered the stand too but paid extra to have it shipped sooner so the stand would ready when the 960 was delivered and the delivery people could lift and place the set onto it for me.


For a week I thought something was wrong with the set for the directional button on the remote control (and the replacement sent by Sony) didn't work. Was very upset till accidentally discovering that the button had to be slid to the appropriate side whereas I was simply pressing down the appropriate side like a video game control.


Over the years I began to better understand how to calibrate the enormous amount of service controls thanks to the Sony Service Codes forum and HD test patterns stored on my DVR from the old INHD station. At first I limited myself to adjusting the geometry and overscan, then read were the consensus recommended changing the four primary colors from the factory pre-sets so changed mine to those too. Eventually gained more confidence and with the help of recommended settings and my own observations amazed myself even more on how beautiful the picture had become.


My only regret is that when cleaning the screen I might have caused very small portions of the anti-glare coating to come off - one in the upper left corner and another thin line one down the extreme left side. Neither are noticeable when sitting straight ahead or toward the left but even when seen, looks more like a reflection off the screen.


Anyone know of an applicator that can cover up these small splotches?


----------



## KBI

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* 
I got mine on August 5 2005 and will not part with it for anything. I ordered the stand too but paid extra to have it shipped sooner so the stand would ready when the 960 was delivered and the delivery people could lift and place the set onto it for me.


For a week I thought something was wrong with the set for the directional button on the remote control (and the replacement sent by Sony) didn't work. Was very upset till accidentally discovering that the button had to be slid to the appropriate side whereas I was simply pressing down the appropriate side like a video game control.


Over the years I began to better understand how to calibrate the enormous amount of service controls thanks to the Sony Service Codes forum and HD test patterns stored on my DVR from the old INHD station. At first I limited myself to adjusting the geometry and overscan, then read were the consensus recommended changing the four primary colors from the factory pre-sets so changed mine to those too. Eventually gained more confidence and with the help of recommended settings and my own observations amazed myself even more on how beautiful the picture had become.


My only regret is that when cleaning the screen I might have caused very small portions of the anti-glare coating to come off - one in the upper left corner and another thin line one down the extreme left side. Neither are noticeable when sitting straight ahead or toward the left but even when seen, looks more like a reflection off the screen.


Anyone know of an applicator that can cover up these small splotches?
Is there a handshake problem with the 960 & the PS3? Mine won't work. The seller demoed his TV using the HDMI port.. I also have a small purple color on the edge of my TV..Right side.. about 1/2 in width, 1 1/2 in length.. Any fix to this..


The owner was nice enough to include the service manual, & tons of sheets regarding the 960.. Maybe schematics or a guide..


----------



## Stinky-Dinkins

Quote:

Originally Posted by *KBI* 
Is there a handshake problem with the 960 & the PS3? Mine won't work. The seller demoed his TV using the HDMI port.. I also have a small purple color on the edge of my TV..Right side.. about 1/2 in width, 1 1/2 in length.. Any fix to this..
Nope, shouldn't be. Mine works fine with a PS3 and a 360 both outputting HDMI to it (both hooked up via HDMI to an Oppo HDMI switcher that goes into an Onkyo that goes into my 960,) and an Oppo 983h that also feeds into the 960 through the Onkyo. Very occasionally one of the devices will experience a handshake issue and it'll drop picture for about 3 or 4 seconds but this is rare, and it certainly shouldn't prevent your PS3 from working at all. Have you tried hooking anything else to the TV via HDMI after you got it home and set everything up?


Keep in mind that if the PS3 is set to output 1080p it won't work - TV won't accept it so it doesn't downconvert it. I once brought my PS3 over to my Brother In Law's house to test out his new set with a few Blu Rays, changed the PS3 to 1080p output via HDMI, forgot to change it back to 1080i before I left, and then it wouldn't work when I brought it home. I didn't have the old PS3 proprietary composite cable so I couldn't hook it up analog and change it back, I had to physically take it back over to his house, hook it back up again, and change it back to 1080i. If you have the composite cable that came with the PS3 try hooking it up that way to make sure it's not outputting 1080p, I bet that's the problem.


Try unplugging the set for 5 or 10 minutes, plug it back in directly into the wall socket, and turn it on so it can properly degauss. See if that helps with the discolored splotch in the corner.


----------



## bbbobbb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stinky-Dinkins* /forum/post/19846628
> 
> 
> Nope, shouldn't be. Mine works fine with a PS3 and a 360 both outputting HDMI to it (both hooked up via HDMI to an Oppo HDMI switcher that goes into an Onkyo that goes into my 960,) and an Oppo 983h that also feeds into the 960 through the Onkyo. Very occasionally one of the devices will experience a handshake issue and it'll drop picture for about 3 or 4 seconds but this is rare, and it certainly shouldn't prevent your PS3 from working at all. Have you tried hooking anything else to the TV via HDMI after you got it home and set everything up?
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that if the PS3 is set to output 1080p it won't work - TV won't accept it and isn't capable of downconverting it. I once brought my PS3 over to my Brother In Law's house to test out his new set with a few Blu Rays, changed the PS3 to 1080p output via HDMI, forgot to change it back to 1080i before I left, and then it wouldn't work when I brought it home. I didn't have the old PS3 proprietary composite cable so I couldn't hook it up analog and change it back, I had to physically take it back over to his house, hook it back up again, and change it back to 1080i. If you have the composite cable that came with the PS3 try hooking it up that way to make sure it's not outputting 1080p, I bet that's the problem.
> 
> 
> Try unplugging the set for 5 or 10 minutes, plug it back in directly into the wall socket, and turn it on so it can properly degauss. See if that helps with the discolored splotch in the corner.



My PS3 also works fine and goes through a very cheap ($20) HDMI switcher before it gets to the lone HDMI port on the 34XBR960.


And, if you ever have the resolution mismatch you should try this next time:


1) Make sure the PS3 is off.

2) Hold down the Power Button for 5-6 seconds - until you hear the second beep.

3) Your video settings are then reset and you may be choose your input and configure it from there.


----------



## KBI

Thanks guys. Will do.


----------



## JA Fant

Well, it is 2011 and still enjoying my 960N...


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JA Fant* /forum/post/19874264
> 
> 
> Well, it is 2011 and still enjoying my 960N...



And I'm sure for many, many more years to come, "N" or no "N".










UPDATE:


Just thought of it..., many years from now when the 960 is still the best set around, most of our anti-glare coating might have finally come off, meaning our 960s will have turned into 960Ns after all!


----------



## jsmith967

So I have read lots in the thread that Kentech gave many service menu tips and it is very helpful. This thread is also helpful, but I have not read it as much. I have searched for a possible answer and cannot seem to figure out what is wrong or how to fix my set. I have actually performed many of the service menu tweaks already and my XS955 34" 16:9 really shines now! As I understand it, my XS955 has the same tube as the XBR960 and so the actual picture parameters are highly related and similar, if not identical. My problem is as follows: when I finished all the corrections and calibration (geometry, focus, grayscale, etc.), I started to notice an error that comes-and-goes depending on whats being displayed. I feel like it is not randomly displayed, but as of currently, have not deduced what exactly causes the error in the video signal. Perhaps this is a defect in my set or some setting that I must tweak in the service menu. Below is one picture I took of Harry Potter and the Half Blood Prince. Notice has there are a coupld of large blue-red or red/green horizontal bands across the screen. Like I said, they're not always on there, but especially in dark scenes with highlights, it is very annoying and distracting. Any help or input would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance!


Link to photo with the error:

http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/...uestion002.jpg


----------



## The Lizard King

For anyone living in the Twin Cities, MN area, here's one for $100:

http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hn...176431278.html 


TLK


----------



## KBI

Looks like I fixed my off color blotch.. I needed to go into the service menu & reduce the RT landing.. Seems like the purple spot is now gone or been reduced greatly..


----------



## KBI

960 for a 100.00 is criminal. I'd buy a extra for a 100... This is the best bang for the buck in HDTV history..Seriously.. It's beyond silly..


----------



## Camicia

I have a 2 color spots on the left side of my 960.

Here is the description of the problem: w w w . avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1309967 

Can you help me with that?


----------



## biffmalibu

I know this is the 960 thread but thought maybe somebody in the seattle area might want to snap this up;

Sorry if i'm out of pocket posting this here but i got thinking about all you fellow XBR960 people out there and thought i'd pass along the info.


ad says: "FREE XBR970...TV is in perfect working order "


This ad just posted today;

http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/ele/2180230365.html 


if it was a 960 it would be in my truck already.


Does anyone happen to know if the boards in 960 and 970 are interchangable??..... Wondering if i can salvage parts from it for my 960.

i know the crt is not the same.



biff


----------



## KBI




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Camicia* /forum/post/19889750
> 
> 
> I have a 2 color spots on the left side of my 960.
> 
> Here is the description of the problem: w w w . avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1309967
> 
> Can you help me with that?



I would suggest going into the service menu.. Press #2 till you get to landing.. I believe you can scroll the different options by pressing #6. Just focus on LT. LB. RT. RB. Each has a default setting of 127.. Easy to remember.. If you want to save the settings press mute then enter quickly... Then the change will be saved.. I noticed my blotched is gone or at least 90% gone, to the point It's no big deal anymore..


----------



## Slinky11

Just wanted to share the great things you can find on Craigslist if you are patient







I was looking for this thing for a long time. $15! Component in and flat screen, in addition to loads of features make it perfect for old gaming consoles that look not so great on the 960.


KV-13FS100


----------



## salty

Very nice! I'm always on the lookout for that sort of thing too. Component in is a nice bonus as well.


----------



## evoluzione

It's time.


My 34XBR960 needs a new home. I'm in the (South) Austin, TX area and I'd like for someone to pick it up sooner rather than later. I'd like $300 for it, and it has the matching stand! It does need some geometry/convergence calibration - I just never got round to it - we've been watching it every day though and it's mostly not noticeable (text suffers on the left edge of the screen)


I am open to offers as I do (unfortunately) need it gone, have no room to set it up










It will be posted on craigslist also, but my experience there has been mostly poor, so I'd like to give you guys first dibs!


----------



## KBI

I'm having issues with my 960.. You know the black stripes (borders) all around the edges of the TV? the top black part seems to have dropped 1/3 of a inch, & the picture is shown above the black stripe while blocking some of the picture. & on the top left it looks like the black stripes cross each other, looking like a cross.. Is this a geometry problem that can be fixed. I only went into the service menu to fix the landing. I been doing this for 2 weeks with no problems. I just noticed this last night.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Attached is a list someone from another provided rating HD sets.

http://hdtvbychadb.com/reviews.htm 


Cannot believe that of all the 28 sets the Sony KD34XBR960 was at the near bottom with only two others having worse overall ratings. I'm sure most of us would strongly disagree for we mostly still find it's picture quality superior over anything seen to date in flat screen technology (the exception, of course, being the Kuro).


If one goes by that list, however, then the Kuro is also only the second best set overall, beaten out by one point by a LG Plasma. Is there anyone here who would equate a LG as the equal of the Kuro and far superior to the 960?


And all ten LCDs all being rated higher than the 960? No doubt each offers a pleasant viewing experience but to be superior to the advanced CRT technology of the 960 - what do you all think?


BTW - yes, the author admits his findings are completely subjective and is a professional calibrator so it is obvious has excellent knowledge on the subject, however, is this the same Chad who has done such an outstanding job calibrating so many's 960s over the years?


----------



## Kool-aid23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/19974167
> 
> 
> Attached is a list someone from another provided rating HD sets.
> 
> http://hdtvbychadb.com/reviews.htm
> 
> 
> Cannot believe that of all the 28 sets the Sony KD34XBR960 was at the near bottom with only two others having worse overall ratings. I'm sure most of us would strongly disagree for we mostly still find it's picture quality superior over anything seen to date in flat screen technology (the exception, of course, being the Kuro).
> 
> 
> If one goes by that list, however, then the Kuro is also only the second best set overall, beaten out by one point by a LG Plasma. Is there anyone here who would equate a LG as the equal of the Kuro and far superior to the 960?
> 
> 
> And all ten LCDs all being rated higher than the 960? No doubt each offers a pleasant viewing experience but to be superior to the advanced CRT technology of the 960 - what do you all think?
> 
> 
> BTW - yes, the author admits his findings are completely subjective and is a professional calibrator so it is obvious has excellent knowledge on the subject, however, is this the same Chad who has done such an outstanding job calibrating so many's 960s over the years?



Joseph, yes this is the same person who still has a great passion and respect for the 960. I had Chad touch up my 960 before the holidays and he reassured me that the 960 is still one great tv. If you look at his ratings, in the areas of color, shadow detail, MLL (black level), and dept the 960 scored extremely well. IMO these are the critical areas for how well a tv produces. The limitations are a factor thus, I respect Chad's overall rating of the 960. But, if you look strictly at the areas that determined a high quality picture, the 960 is still holding it's own.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kool-aid23* /forum/post/19974905
> 
> 
> Joseph, yes this is the same person who still has a great passion and respect for the 960. I had Chad touch up my 960 before the holidays and he reassured me that the 960 is still one great tv. If you look at his ratings, in the areas of color, shadow detail, MLL (black level), and dept the 960 scored extremely well. IMO these are the critical areas for how well a tv produces. The limitations are a factor thus, I respect Chad's overall rating of the 960. But, if you look strictly at the areas that determined a high quality picture, the 960 is still holding it's own.



Hi Kool,


That what's so puzzling - so many have mentioned Chad's respect for the 960 and even though some vital factors are rated high, they are offset by the seven points deducted due to issues with geometry, purity, convergence, etc.


At work we have the 55 inch LG LCD/LED he rates as number one. I used the set's test patterns to adjust the user settings and to be quite honest, I was overwhelmed by the size of the picture but found it lacked detail (can't see the skin blemishes on Ellen, Dr. Phil, etc. seen on the 960) and depth (everything on top of each other, no sense of distance between the hosts and the wall behind them) causing it not to look natural.


As Chad mentioned, it is purely subjective and honestly the same holds true for all of us. But nevertheless, even without the seven points deducted, the 960 would only be in the middle of the pack as far as picture quality was concerned. So Chad, if you're monitoring this forum, would be quite interested if you could elaborate more on your research.


----------



## Chad B




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/19975148
> 
> 
> Hi Kool,
> 
> 
> That what's so puzzling - so many have mentioned Chad's respect for the 960 and even though some vital factors are rated high, they are offset by the seven points deducted due to issues with geometry, purity, convergence, etc.
> 
> 
> At work we have the 55 inch LG LCD/LED he rates as number one. I used the set's test patterns to adjust the user settings and to be quite honest, I was overwhelmed by the size of the picture but found it lacked detail (can't see the skin blemishes on Ellen, Dr. Phil, etc. seen on the 960) and depth (everything on top of each other, no sense of distance between the hosts and the wall behind them) causing it not to look natural.
> 
> 
> As Chad mentioned, it is purely subjective and honestly the same holds true for all of us. But nevertheless, even without the seven points deducted, the 960 would only be in the middle of the pack as far as picture quality was concerned. So Chad, if you're monitoring this forum, would be quite interested if you could elaborate more on your research.



Yes, I have liked the XBR960 for a long time. It has great color and contrast and overall a very good picture. I think it's weaknesses are:

geometry, convergence, and purity

shadow detail and pop/contrast are a balancing act (can make one better at the slight expense of the other, but both cannot be perfect at once- both can be _good_ at the same time, just not awesome)

light output in brighter rooms


I am being very picky here, esp with the last 2.

The geom/conv/purity can all be significantly improved with calibration, esp with the magnet work. I'd estimate most of the time I can make about a 70-80% improvement in these areas. However, the problems are still there; reduced, but still quite possibly distracting. That's why I deducted the 7 points.

The shadow detail and pop are just because it's a CRT and without artificial help, either you can have great contrast/pop at the expense of some shadow detail, or you can balance it the other way. There is some gamma control in the SM which can help, but too heavy of a hand on the gamma control will result in too low a gamma in brighter images.

Non stressed light output is limited to approx 40-45 fL, which is great for dark or semi-dark environments; but it can be a little hard to see in a typical living room.


Your feelings on the LG LED LCD may be due to the fact that I evaluate the pic after doing a thorough calibration which includes the 10 point gamma/grayscale adjustment with a spectroradiometer and CMS adjustment. That goes far beyond what can be done by eye, even with a test disc or other test patterns.


----------



## philexile

Hello,


I have an 34xbr960 that was calibrated by Kevin Miller ( www.isftv.com ) last year. Unfortunately, I have to get rid of the TV to make room for a studio/work space (long story), so I'm looking to sell it.


If anyone is interested and lives near the Brooklyn, NY area please let me know.


Best Regards


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chad B* /forum/post/19979185
> 
> 
> Yes, I have liked the XBR960 for a long time. It has great color and contrast and overall a very good picture. I think it's weaknesses are:
> 
> geometry, convergence, and purity
> 
> shadow detail and pop/contrast are a balancing act (can make one better at the slight expense of the other, but both cannot be perfect at once- both can be _good_ at the same time, just not awesome)
> 
> light output in brighter rooms
> 
> 
> I am being very picky here, esp with the last 2.
> 
> The geom/conv/purity can all be significantly improved with calibration, esp with the magnet work. I'd estimate most of the time I can make about a 70-80% improvement in these areas. However, the problems are still there; reduced, but still quite possibly distracting. That's why I deducted the 7 points.
> 
> The shadow detail and pop are just because it's a CRT and without artificial help, either you can have great contrast/pop at the expense of some shadow detail, or you can balance it the other way. There is some gamma control in the SM which can help, but too heavy of a hand on the gamma control will result in too low a gamma in brighter images.
> 
> Non stressed light output is limited to approx 40-45 fL, which is great for dark or semi-dark environments; but it can be a little hard to see in a typical living room.
> 
> 
> Your feelings on the LG LED LCD may be due to the fact that I evaluate the pic after doing a thorough calibration which includes the 10 point gamma/grayscale adjustment with a spectroradiometer and CMS adjustment. That goes far beyond what can be done by eye, even with a test disc or other test patterns.



Hi Chad,


So nice to chat with you after reading the many nice words from those you have serviced and, of course, thanks so much for the reply and the points you made.


Agree that without knowing how well the LG was calibrated there is no way to tell how much more detail might appear in the picture. But the problem I have with the LG and LCDs in general is that lack of dimension where everything appears on top of each other. That's what I love about the 960 - the picture appears much like looking through a window.


I know a 1080i picture on a 34 inch set properly calibrated will have sharper focus than one much larger for that is natural as density increases. However, with the highest resolution available being1080p, is there be a point that the screen size becomes so large that it is impossible to reproduce the same sharpness and detail found on others? Could that be another reason why I found some aspects of the LG to be lacking compared to the 960?


Joe


----------



## Chad B




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/19980230
> 
> 
> the problem I have with the LG and LCDs in general is that lack of dimension where everything appears on top of each other. That's what I love about the 960 - the picture appears much like looking through a window.
> 
> 
> I know a 1080i picture on a 34 inch set properly calibrated will have sharper focus than one much larger for that is natural as density increases. However, with the highest resolution available being1080p, is there be a point that the screen size becomes so large that it is impossible to reproduce the same sharpness and detail found on others? Could that be another reason why I found some aspects of the LG to be lacking compared to the 960?
> 
> 
> Joe



Poor gamma is why most LCDs lack depth and dimensionality. Many manufacturers, especially with LCDs, intentionally program in a very low gamma to make the image appear brighter. It does make it look brighter, but it destroys the sense of depth and also can obscure detail in brightly lit objects.

For example, if you have a light complected newscaster in a brightly lit studio environment, you will get the "caked on makeup" look where definition and detail is obscured from the face and it looks like plastic was melted over the skin.


Gamma too low: flat, washed out, lacking detail in bright objects, bright

Gamma too high: too contrasty, not bright enough, lacking detail in dark objects


Gamma on the XBR960 in Pro mode, on the other hand, is much higher. It's not perfect, because it starts out a little on the high side with dark images and goes a little lower with bright images, but overall it's in the correct range. That, and the very good contrast, is why the XBR960 has such an excellent sense of depth and detail.

Fortunately, the gamma on the LG in question can be anything the calibrator wants it to be, to a point. It can be made to be very close to perfect, but only by calibrating the 10 point grayscale/gamma control. Uncalibrated, the gamma varies according to what picture mode it's in, but it's not ideal. It could be pretty bad, in fact.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chad B* /forum/post/19980708
> 
> 
> Poor gamma is why most LCDs lack depth and dimensionality. Many manufacturers, especially with LCDs, intentionally program in a very low gamma to make the image appear brighter. It does make it look brighter, but it destroys the sense of depth and also can obscure detail in brightly lit objects.
> 
> For example, if you have a light complected newscaster in a brightly lit studio environment, you will get the "caked on makeup" look where definition and detail is obscured from the face and it looks like plastic was melted over the skin.
> 
> 
> Gamma too low: flat, washed out, lacking detail in bright objects, bright
> 
> Gamma too high: too contrasty, not bright enough, lacking detail in dark objects
> 
> 
> Gamma on the XBR960 in Pro mode, on the other hand, is much higher. It's not perfect, because it starts out a little on the high side with dark images and goes a little lower with bright images, but overall it's in the correct range. That, and the very good contrast, is why the XBR960 has such an excellent sense of depth and detail.
> 
> Fortunately, the gamma on the LG in question can be anything the calibrator wants it to be, to a point. It can be made to be very close to perfect, but only by calibrating the 10 point grayscale/gamma control. Uncalibrated, the gamma varies according to what picture mode it's in, but it's not ideal. It could be pretty bad, in fact.



Hi Chad,


Your reference to plastic melted over the skin is the best analogy I've heard to describe how faces appear on both the LG at work and my 32 inch Samsung at home (along with most that I've seen in other homes or stores).


But does that mean that a near perfectly calibrated gamma is offset by other factors not enabling bright objects to appear bright enough? Otherwise, what is the logic having a low internal setting if there is no need to have objects appear brighter? Is it that gamma cannot as yet be properly balanced with other internal settings to produce the most optimum picture and therefor a lower setting is the best of all possibilities (and preferable to a higher, too dark setting)?


Thanks again,

Joe


----------



## homerging




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chad B* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The shadow detail and pop are just because it's a CRT and without artificial help, either you can have great contrast/pop at the expense of some shadow detail, or you can balance it the other way. There is some gamma control in the SM which can help, but too heavy of a hand on the gamma control will result in too low a gamma in brighter images.



ChadB, is it possible to address crushed blacks / shadow detail in the service menu analogous to what Box1020 and GammaX do (what they call "Low-Level Black Boost")







That is, without washing out blacks and brighter areas?


----------



## Chad B




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *homerging* /forum/post/19981813
> 
> 
> ChadB, is it possible to address crushed blacks / shadow detail in the service menu analogous to what Box1020 and GammaX do (what they call "Low-Level Black Boost")
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is, without washing out blacks and brighter areas?



Unfortunately, the gamma adjustments in the XBR960 work across the board rather than primarily at the low end. So, to the best of my knowledge, no.

But it's not that bad; I end up with a gamma of around 2.4 at the low end to around 2.2 at the high end. Both are within the ideal gamma range, though it'd be nice if it was more balanced.


----------



## Chad B




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/19981139
> 
> 
> Hi Chad,
> 
> 
> Your reference to plastic melted over the skin is the best analogy I've heard to describe how faces appear on both the LG at work and my 32 inch Samsung at home (along with most that I've seen in other homes or stores).
> 
> 
> But does that mean that a near perfectly calibrated gamma is offset by other factors not enabling bright objects to appear bright enough? Otherwise, what is the logic having a low internal setting if there is no need to have objects appear brighter? Is it that gamma cannot as yet be properly balanced with other internal settings to produce the most optimum picture and therefor a lower setting is the best of all possibilities (and preferable to a higher, too dark setting)?
> 
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Joe



Each set has a maximum light output capability, whether it's 45 fL, 90 fL, or whatever. It's limited by the design of the set itself. What manufacturers are trying to do by purposefully sending out sets with low gamma is:
make the set appear brighter than it's maximum light output capability
make the set easier to see in harsh lighting conditions
make their set look brighter than the set beside it in the store, because market research has shown people are attracted to the brightest set in the store

They throw out accuracy in the process. That's why we calibrate.

The gamma is the brightness ratio- it determines if the middle intensity and darker images are reproduced in their proper brightness proportion compared to the brightest images (and the brightest images are determined by the set's maximum light output capability).


If you're an audio guy, think of it this way: having a low gamma is like compressing the dynamic range of your audio- sounds louder, but not as good.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chad B* /forum/post/19982202
> 
> 
> Each set has a maximum light output capability, whether it's 45 fL, 90 fL, or whatever. It's limited by the design of the set itself. What manufacturers are trying to do by purposefully sending out sets with low gamma is:
> make the set appear brighter than it's maximum light output capability
> make the set easier to see in harsh lighting conditions
> make their set look brighter than the set beside it in the store, because market research has shown people are attracted to the brightest set in the store
> 
> They throw out accuracy in the process. That's why we calibrate.
> 
> The gamma is the brightness ratio- it determines if the middle intensity and darker images are reproduced in their proper brightness proportion compared to the brightest images (and the brightest images are determined by the set's maximum light output capability).
> 
> 
> If you're an audio guy, think of it this way: having a low gamma is like compressing the dynamic range of your audio- sounds louder, but not as good.



Hi Chad,


Know about dynamic range in audio - that's why "Bolero" sounds as Ravel intended on uncompressed CD as opposed to vinyl. I also have a large collection of old movies dubbed from TCM-HD onto DVD-R but unfortunately am forced to have the range set to narrow when recording for otherwise the volume output is way too low. If the ouput was louder I could still salvage more of the dynamic range even though it's down-converted from 5.1 to 2.0 with the dubbing.


It's a shame that stores always attempt to trick people into buying certain products by producing impressive but inaccurate picture quality on one set or instead screwing it up on others (one tried to do it with me showing how one picture was less grainy than another which was advertised on sale). But for the industry to do so en masse with gamma, etc. - that's a complete lack of integrity in their craftmanship and something I don't really understand since if properly callibrated, a LCD should have no problem reproducing the depth and detail that we find on the 960 and owners would be the beneficiaries (of course, they can fool around with the user settings if they incorrectly think the picture should be brighter than it is). Or are there still limitations with it?


Joe


----------



## homerging

Is it possible for XBR SFP sets to have come from factory with the wrong service menu gamma settings leading to crushed blacks?


----------



## Chad B

No.

The brightness comes set a little too low, though.

It doesn't actually crush black when in Pro mode with a properly calibrated brightness. It just comes out of black slowly, leading to the slight balancing act between blacks/contrast and shadow detail.


----------



## KBI

I changed the gamma to 0 & notice that it only comes into effect when I set the setting to the cold..Neutral & warm seems to have kept the gamma at 1.. & what does system do? it goes from 0-3..1 seems to bring out the most detail but seems to have a lot of added sharpness or edge enhancement. I'm getting mine calibrated next Friday by Bob.


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KBI* /forum/post/19983848
> 
> 
> I changed the gamma to 0 & notice that it only comes into effect when I set the setting to the cold..Neutral & warm seems to have kept the gamma at 1.. & what does system do? it goes from 0-3..1 seems to bring out the most detail but seems to have a lot of added sharpness or edge enhancement. I'm getting mine calibrated next Friday by Bob.



FWIW.

While the 2170P-4 GAMM parameter, may appear to only have a single value, a review of the service manual indicates it has an independent value for almost every combination of all picture modes, all inputs and all resolutions. For each of the four possible GAMM settings, 0 thru 3, there is a table of GAMx that specifies the sharpness, red, green & blue emphasis values.


It doesn't appear to be linked to the color temperature parameters.


----------



## KBI

Quote:

Originally Posted by *raouliii* 
FWIW.

While the 2170P-4 GAMM parameter, may appear to only have a single value, a review of the service manual indicates it has an independent value for almost every combination of all picture modes, all inputs and all resolutions. For each of the four possible GAMM settings, 0 thru 3, there is a table of GAMx that specifies the sharpness, red, green & blue emphasis values.


It doesn't appear to be linked to the color temperature parameters.
What about System 0-3.. What do they do?


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KBI* /forum/post/19990150
> 
> 
> What about System 0-3.. What do they do?



I don't see a service menu item called System. The item name is usually not a full word. I see SYSP, SYSM, ASYS & SYSV.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KBI* /forum/post/19990150
> 
> 
> What about System 0-3.. What do they do?



Is that the internal focus? If so, I kept it at flat - the others made the picture either too soft or too grainy. If not, the spreadsheet I sent you privately should have some information as to what it does - I just don't remember off-hand.


----------



## KBI




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/19992137
> 
> 
> Is that the internal focus? If so, I kept it at flat - the others made the picture either too soft or too grainy. If not, the spreadsheet I sent you privately should have some information as to what it does - I just don't remember off-hand.



I'll check.. one is most detailed but seems artifical.. I usually leave it at 3.. Sometimes 2..


----------



## KBI

Bob calibrated my 960.. What a charming man.. My 960 is like a new TV geometry wise. I can actually see the whole picture now. No cut off..







The test patterns are ruthless, I didn't think my TV was that off.. I also had convergence problems, which Bob fixed.. Colors are better & the over all picture is much sharper.. He told me the greyscale on my TV was actually pretty good. I will get that done on his next visit.. I gave him my 960 schematics to keep & let him borrow my Service manual.. Hopefully this will help other 960 owners who have Bob do their 960.. Total time was 5 hrs.. I was there the whole time & found it very fascinating, but I didn't know how big the difference would be until she showed me the demo disc.. I had that stupid grin on my face & laughed in a wow kind of sense.. Sharpness was at 0 & no ED turned on.. Before, with the sharpness at 0 the picture was a bit blurry.. Not anymore.. Even with the sharpness at set to Zero, the picture was very crisp.. Truly amazing..


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KBI* /forum/post/20031248
> 
> 
> Bob calibrated my 960.. What a charming man.. My 960 is like a new TV geometry wise. I can actually see the whole picture now. No cut off..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The test patterns are ruthless, I didn't think my TV was that off.. I also had convergence problems, which Bob fixed.. Colors are better & the over all picture is much sharper.. He told me the greyscale on my TV was actually pretty good. I will get that done on his next visit.. I gave him my 960 schematics to keep & let him borrow my Service manual.. Hopefully this will help other 960 owners who have Bob do their 960.. Total time was 5 hrs.. I was there the whole time & found it very fascinating, but I didn't know how big the difference would be until she showed me the demo disc.. I had that stupid grin on my face & laughed in a wow kind of sense.. Sharpness was at 0 & no ED turned on.. Before, with the sharpness at 0 the picture was a bit blurry.. Not anymore.. Even with the sharpness at set to Zero, the picture was very crisp.. Truly amazing..



So glad you got the set calibrated - told you it would be like getting a whole new TV; might even seem more so after Bob's next visit.










Know what you mean with the sharpness. Though I don't keep it at zero, after I did some calibrations with the focus I found I too got a much sharper picture at a lower setting with just a low edge enhancement. You might find, like I did, that the degree of sharpness from zero to sixty four is more subtle than before the calibration, which (I guess) enables it to be more precise in the user settings.


----------



## KBI




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/20033647
> 
> 
> So glad you got the set calibrated - told you it would be like getting a whole new TV; might even seem more so after Bob's next visit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Know what you mean with the sharpness. Though I don't keep it at zero, after I did some calibrations with the focus I found I too got a much sharper picture at a lower setting with just a low edge enhancement. You might find, like I did, that the degree of sharpness from zero to sixty four is more subtle than before the calibration, which (I guess) enables it to be more precise in the user settings.



Ty you.. & thank you for getting me interested in calibration.. The 960 has 29 test patterns in the service menu. I didn't know this until Bob showed me.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KBI* /forum/post/20036697
> 
> 
> Ty you.. & thank you for getting me interested in calibration.. The 960 has 29 test patterns in the service menu. I didn't know this until Bob showed me.



Glad I was able to help. Be careful with those internal test patterns - the volume needs to be off and one needs to re-set the code back in order to get rid of the patterns before exiting the service menu. I had no idea about this and was going crazy unable to get my 960 to display the cable box once more until figuring it out (I think through the help of a forum member).


The geometric test pattern on the 960, however, was of no help and actually caused the picture to become distorted with everything pulled left. So I use an external swatch pattern instead.


----------



## PathofNeo

Long story short I think I'm ditching my 34XBR960. As I mentioned previously.. this is my 2nd one and I notice phosphor trailing on it. I don't know if this is normal but for instance if a white object moves across a black screen I can see white trails momentarily. It's kinda annoying.


I didn't seem to ever recall this on my first set. Also, this one seems quite a bit dimmer than my first one. With the same settings I don't know how this can be? The first one I had was the XBR960N. This one is the XBR960. Is it the anti-glare coating that makes this one seem dimmer? I dunno but I just remember the one I had before packed more "punch" to the picture, was brighter, and overall more clear. Perhaps I'm sensitive to the coating or this one is just burned out.


So I found a 34XBR910 on Craigslist and claims to be original owner and in perfect condition. I will of course inspect it good. But how much different is the 910 versus the 960? They both have super fine pitch. But I've heard from a couple members that the 960 has better quality. Picture quality is the only thing I'm interested in. Not sound, cards, memory stick, inputs, etc. Speaking of inputs, the hdmi input was horrible on both my 960s. This resulted in a blurry picture. Same components (PS3, 360, Oppo) was sharper and cleaner with component cables. So I'll be using one component to my reciever for all my connections. This is the right thing to do right?


So is the 960 have a superior picture or not? I assume reliability is the same?


It's a darn shame I can't be satisfied with my Kuro. I may be noticing the phosphor trails because in between my 960s I used a 5020 Kuro. So perhaps I'm able to pick up on the slightest blur. Either way, I like dark movies and even the Kuro glows in a dark environment and the 960s are just a dream. Too bad it took me several grand later to realize this.


----------



## hoffo

Phosphor trailing is normal with any CRT. The anti-glare coating does reduce the light output so the N model should be brighter since it doesn't have the coating. Also super fine pitch tubes are a bit darker (less light output) vs standard HD Sony aperture grill sets (high scan models). Hope that helps.


----------



## Mathesar

Quote:

Originally Posted by *PathofNeo* 
It's a darn shame I can't be satisfied with my Kuro. I may be noticing the phosphor trails because in between my 960s I used a 5020 Kuro. So perhaps I'm able to pick up on the slightest blur. Either way, I like dark movies and even the Kuro glows in a dark environment and the 960s are just a dream. Too bad it took me several grand later to realize this.
When you say your Kuro "glows" in dark environments are you referring to the black levels? The 5020 measures at a 0.00 to 0.01 cd/m2 black point (depending on hardware used to measure) which is basically pitch black.


----------



## PathofNeo

Make no mistake, I realize the Kuros have the best blacks in the industry among the current panels. What I mean by "glow" is just that. I do all my viewing in a pitch black room (always have) to be fully immersed with no distraction.


Something simple as anamorphic bars don't vanish in the dark on the Kuro. No settings will change that, even brightness/contrast at 0. It may not be a big deal to the majority.. but to me it is. So my favorite dark movies don't have the same impact as on the 960. Call me crazy but glowing anamorphic bars distract me. Also, scenes throughout aren't totally black during fades. The same scenes totally fade to black on the 960 to the point of me not seeing my hand in front of my face. I like that!


You may say that it's the particular transfer on the blu-rays that I watch. For instance before the opening credits on "Freddy vs Jason" when the New Line Cinema logo is displayed.. the whole background is greyish. Not just the anamorphic bars, but everything. Not so on the 960. Everything but the logo is jet black. The problem is that it carries into the credits and into the opening scene. I NEVER had these issues with the 960. I also had a Samsung 63C8000 and Panny 58VT25 which I have returned both due to the same problem. The blacks may be acceptable but the glowing effect is present I can see it.


This post wasn't to knock plasmas. Their fine and will continue to improve I'm sure.


----------



## Ennui




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PathofNeo* /forum/post/20084059
> 
> 
> So I found a 34XBR910 on Craigslist and claims to be original owner and in perfect condition. I will of course inspect it good. But how much different is the 910 versus the 960? They both have super fine pitch. But I've heard from a couple members that the 960 has better quality. Picture quality is the only thing I'm interested in. Not sound, cards, memory stick, inputs, etc. Speaking of inputs, the hdmi input was horrible on both my 960s. This resulted in a blurry picture. Same components (PS3, 360, Oppo) was sharper and cleaner with component cables. So I'll be using one component to my reciever for all my connections. This is the right thing to do right?



On my 960, I use HDMI input from a TiVo HD and it is terrific. Just as good as straight in from CableCARD input. Maybe your cable was bad. (Not unheard of.)


----------



## Mathesar

Quote:

Originally Posted by *PathofNeo* 
Make no mistake, I realize the Kuros have the best blacks in the industry among the current panels. What I mean by "glow" is just that. I do all my viewing in a pitch black room (always have) to be fully immersed with no distraction.


Something simple as anamorphic bars don't vanish in the dark on the Kuro.
Oh ok well I have an 8G Kuro (5080HD) and even tho it registers 0.05cd/m2 black point (Not quite as black vs. 9G 5020) its plenty dark for me at night in fact its the first non-CRT ive owned that im happy with, I guess im not as picky as I thought.


When I had my 960 next to it the black levels didnt stick out as being darker on the CRT, If I adjust the 960 to the point of having "pitch" black levels on a 'fade to black' scene then im also crushing blacks according to the test patterns I used to calibrate it, so ive always had the brightness set just one click above that point.


----------



## PathofNeo

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Mathesar* 
Oh ok well I have an 8G Kuro (5080HD) and even tho it registers 0.05cd/m2 black point (Not quite as black vs. 9G 5020) its plenty dark for me at night in fact its the first non-CRT ive owned that im happy with, I guess im not as picky as I thought.


When I had my 960 next to it the black levels didnt stick out as being darker on the CRT, If I adjust the 960 to the point of having "pitch" black levels on a 'fade to black' scene then im also crushing blacks according to the test patterns I used to calibrate it, so ive always had the brightness set just one click above that point.
Yep... I've followed your posts the past couple years on hardforum so I know about your 4280HD, then 5080HD. It sounds like you've been tremendously pleased with them. By all means, their awesome.


I think why I perceive the 960 as having blacker blacks is the fact that it's only 34". That size allows to hide imperfections such as glows (for me) and other impurities. 50" and up is only going to blow up anything that may stick out for certain individuals. It's the same thing when I go to the cinemas.. I don't have to hunt much to be distracted their. I suppose folk like me can't win! lol


But you raise a point that I didn't consider. How do the blacks on your old 4280HD compare to say a new panel? I'm interested in a 42" panel for PC gaming and don't know why I didn't think about that 4280HD. Would it suite me more than a 42GT25/42ST30? Are they 1080p?


ps- I posted something similar last night on hardforum so your responding to the same person..twice lol. But thank you.


----------



## Mathesar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PathofNeo* /forum/post/20086657
> 
> 
> But you raise a point that I didn't consider. How do the blacks on your old 4280HD compare to say a new panel? I'm interested in a 42" panel for PC gaming and don't know why I didn't think about that 4280HD. Would it suite me more than a 42GT25/42ST30? Are they 1080p?



Well as you may know Pioneer pulled out of the TV business altogether in 2009 so the chances of finding a 4280HD now is probably pretty slim.


Ya both of those Panny 42" models are 1080p


The only thing that bothers me about Panasonic is the floating / * rising black * issues they've become known for with 2009 & 2010 models, but I would keep an eye on the AVS plasma section to see if the 2011 GT25 / ST30 etc. has any reports of these issues.


Supposedly the 2011 Panasonics will have some Kuro tech in them but im not sure exactly which models this applies to.


----------



## PathofNeo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mathesar* /forum/post/20088927
> 
> 
> Supposedly the 2011 Panasonics will have some Kuro tech in them but im not sure exactly which models this applies to.



That's bull**** and you know it. lol


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoffo* /forum/post/20084259
> 
> 
> Phosphor trailing is normal with any CRT. The anti-glare coating does reduce the light output so the N model should be brighter since it doesn't have the coating. Also super fine pitch tubes are a bit darker (less light output) vs standard HD Sony aperture grill sets (high scan models). Hope that helps.



Doesn't the N model have some sort of anti-glare coating on the inside instead of the outside? Also, different picture quality with the same using settings might be due to the set being callibrated differently.


----------



## pharmerphil

Finally HAD to buy a bigger screen for my old, ageing eyes. Got a 58" Panny Plasma. Love the screen size but miss the color & clarity of my 960. I am the original buyer of the 960 TV & bought it in the Spring of 2006. Got the Owner's manual, remote, & it works great. Based on the prices I've seen 'kicked around" here at AVS, I've priced it at $300. Bad news is that I live in rural NW Tn. Near Murray, Ky. or Paris, Tn. I know it's a very remote possibility of someone here at AVS living anywhere near this area. But, if anyone out there should be interested in my 960 please PM here or lvg. msg. It's way too heavy to try to ship. Thanks.


----------



## KBI




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pharmerphil* /forum/post/20093618
> 
> 
> Finally HAD to buy a bigger screen for my old, ageing eyes. Got a 58" Panny Plasma. Love the screen size but miss the color & clarity of my 960. I am the original buyer of the 960 TV & bought it in the Spring of 2006. Got the Owner's manual, remote, & it works great. Based on the prices I've seen 'kicked around" here at AVS, I've priced it at $300. Bad news is that I live in rural NW Tn. Near Murray, Ky. or Paris, Tn. I know it's a very remote possibility of someone here at AVS living anywhere near this area. But, if anyone out there should be interested in my 960 please PM here or lvg. msg. It's way too heavy to try to ship. Thanks.



I'd love to pick up another 960 but I already have 3 TV's in my living room. I doubt any commercial TV can better the 960 in color accuracy once properly calibrated.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Quote:

Originally Posted by *KBI* 
I'd love to pick up another 960 but I already have 3 TV's in my living room. I doubt any commercial TV can better the 960 in color accuracy once properly calibrated.
My friend, before picking up another 960, consider there are many who as yet do not have a one. We must be charitable to those in need and not as fortunate as we are!


----------



## evoluzione

I have one for saleI posted a few pages back but for those who missed it, I'm in the (South) Austin, TX area and I have the Sony matching stand for it also. The TV could do with a calibration however, some geometry and/or convergence issues. Make me an offer! I unfortunately need to get it out of here!


----------



## drkashner

I've had my 960 for 6 years. In all that time, I only had the 7 blinking lights 3 times. Last week it started giving the the 7 blinking lights every time I turned it on. I was able to turn it off and back on and it would come on. This morning, that didn't work. I can't get it to come on, it has the 7 blinking lights. Its plugged into the wall. My Directv dvr remote turns on the dvr and the tv at the same time, so I tried leaving the dvr off and turning the tv on by itself and it still won't come on. Earlier this week, I tried leaving it unplugged overnight and it still wouldn't come on, on the first try. I guess I already know this question, but is it worth having it looked at, cost wise? My daughter had a doctor appt. yesterday and I went into HHGregg while she was there. I didn't see any tv's that even came close to the picture my 960 has. I guess I'm very picky about picture quality. I watched Supernatural last night on the 960 and the picture quality was better than any tv I saw in the store. Any suggestions for a new tv. I've been researching, and think I want a plasma if I don't get the 960 fixed. The 2 best ones are supposed to be the Panasonic VT25 or the new VT30, or the Samsung c8000, or the new d8000. I know new models will soon be out, but I don't want to wait too long, we are now watching a 13 inch magnavox. The higher end plasmas only come in the larger sizes also. I can only fit up to a 50 inch tv where the 960 is. The new vt30 Pan. only comes as small as 55 inches. The samsung model goes from 50 inches to 51 inches in the new model, but the outside dimensions are the same. They reduced the bezel an inch, so the picture is an inch larger.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drkashner* /forum/post/20105262
> 
> 
> I've had my 960 for 6 years. In all that time, I only had the 7 blinking lights 3 times. Last week it started giving the the 7 blinking lights every time I turned it on. I was able to turn it off and back on and it would come on. This morning, that didn't work. I can't get it to come on, it has the 7 blinking lights. Its plugged into the wall. My Directv dvr remote turns on the dvr and the tv at the same time, so I tried leaving the dvr off and turning the tv on by itself and it still won't come on. Earlier this week, I tried leaving it unplugged overnight and it still wouldn't come on, on the first try. I guess I already know this question, but is it worth having it looked at, cost wise? My daughter had a doctor appt. yesterday and I went into HHGregg while she was there. I didn't see any tv's that even came close to the picture my 960 has. I guess I'm very picky about picture quality. I watched Supernatural last night on the 960 and the picture quality was better than any tv I saw in the store. Any suggestions for a new tv. I've been researching, and think I want a plasma if I don't get the 960 fixed. The 2 best ones are supposed to be the Panasonic VT25 or the new VT30, or the Samsung c8000, or the new d8000. I know new models will soon be out, but I don't want to wait too long, we are now watching a 13 inch magnavox. The higher end plasmas only come in the larger sizes also. I can only fit up to a 50 inch tv where the 960 is. The new vt30 Pan. only comes as small as 55 inches. The samsung model goes from 50 inches to 51 inches in the new model, but the outside dimensions are the same. They reduced the bezel an inch, so the picture is an inch larger.



Sorry about your 960 - that happening to us is a worry most of us share.


Can't comment about the cost but it would still probably be less than purchasing an inexpensive new set. But if you decide on a new one instead, just avoid the hype about the high dynamic contrast ratios, black levels, etc that cause one model to be more expensive than another - those are meaningless specifications that can only be measured on laboratory equipment. So compare picture quality and price and don't believe you have to spend top dollar to get a top quality picture on any flat screen, whether it be Plasma or LCD.


Again, hope it works out that you're able to salvage your 960.


----------



## KBI




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/20105842
> 
> 
> Sorry about your 960 - that happening to us is a worry most of us share.
> 
> 
> Can't comment about the cost but it would still probably be less than purchasing an inexpensive new set. But if you decide on a new one instead, just avoid the hype about the high dynamic contrast ratios, black levels, etc that cause one model to be more expensive than another - those are meaningless specifications that can only be measured on laboratory equipment. So compare picture quality and price and don't believe you have to spend top dollar to get a top quality picture on any flat screen, whether it be Plasma or LCD.
> 
> 
> Again, hope it works out that you're able to salvage your 960.



The 960's are so cheap now, it's best to buy a used one. Much cheaper.. I have a 910 as my back up


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KBI* /forum/post/20107181
> 
> 
> The 960's are so cheap now, it's best to buy a used one. Much cheaper.. I have a 910 as my back up



But if that 960 is already properly calibrated it might be worth getting it fixed considering the combined cost of a used set, calibration and delivery. Also, one at least knows the overall condition of the set being repaired.


Not to mention avoiding a hernia from lugging it or paying someone else to get one instead.


----------



## Finitedream

I picked up a 960 and the anti glare coating is in really bad shape. There is also a gouge in the screen where it had been scraped. Is there a way to replace or out right remove the outter screen or is it attached to the tube it self?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Finitedream* /forum/post/20108454
> 
> 
> I picked up a 960 and the anti glare coating is in really bad shape. There is also a gouge in the screen where it had been scraped. Is there a way to replace or out right remove the outter screen or is it attached to the tube it self?



I've asked the same question too regarding covering up the small blotches toward the edge where coating has come off. No answer for that one but there have been others who just removed the anti-glare coating altogether, so you might want to backtrack through the multitude of pages to find out how it was done.


Keep in mind you might have to re-adjust your user settings a bit since there will be a slightly brighter picture without the coating - won't make it worse I'm told, just needs to have the settings re-adjusted to compensate.


----------



## drkashner

Checked Best Buy and Sears yesterday. I did see a couple of sets that probably are acceptable picture wise. It seemed to me that the plasmas had a more natural picture than the led lcds. Both of the stores really didn't have much of a selection any more. They are getting rid of all the 2010 models to make room for the 2011's. Best Buy said that most of the new models should be in by the middle of March. I really don't like Best Buy, so hopefully I'll find one some where else.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drkashner* /forum/post/20109881
> 
> 
> Checked Best Buy and Sears yesterday. I did see a couple of sets that probably are acceptable picture wise. It seemed to me that the plasmas had a more natural picture than the led lcds. Both of the stores really didn't have much of a selection any more. They are getting rid of all the 2010 models to make room for the 2011's. Best Buy said that most of the new models should be in by the middle of March. I really don't like Best Buy, so hopefully I'll find one some where else.



Taking into consideration the tricks of the trade to make one set look better than others, am curious if you noticed much of a difference in picture quality between the higher priced and lower priced model from the same company?


----------



## drkashner

I really didn't notice a difference. I did notice that different brands had to have been set differently. Their insignia brand was set brighter and the sony's seemed dark.

I tried looking up on the web what the 7 blinks code means and I ran across a power on sequence to display diagnostic codes. I thought it wouldn't hurt to try it, and the tv turned on, and looks great. I haven't turned it off yet. Not sure if going into the diagnostic codes brought it on, or it just happened to turn on. I had tried it earlier this morning and it wouldn't come on. I think I'm going to leave it on so I can watch some thing from my dvr tonight and then turn it off and see if it comes on tomorrow. It will probably eventually fail altogether though.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drkashner* /forum/post/20110354
> 
> 
> I really didn't notice a difference. I did notice that different brands had to have been set differently. Their insignia brand was set brighter and the sony's seemed dark.
> 
> I tried looking up on the web what the 7 blinks code means and I ran across a power on sequence to display diagnostic codes. I thought it wouldn't hurt to try it, and the tv turned on, and looks great. I haven't turned it off yet. Not sure if going into the diagnostic codes brought it on, or it just happened to turn on. I had tried it earlier this morning and it wouldn't come on. I think I'm going to leave it on so I can watch some thing from my dvr tonight and then turn it off and see if it comes on tomorrow. It will probably eventually fail altogether though.



THAT IS GREAT NEWS! Perhaps using the sequence for the diagnostic code did the trick - please let us know if the 960 turns on as normal next time you power it up.


Thanks also for what you observed in the store. It's my honest opinion that a higher priced unit from the same name brand company really doesn't offer more in picture quality - only more in features (inputs, web connection, 3D, etc). Marketing studies also found that consumers are (at least initially) attracted to brighter pictures when entering the store so that might be one reason for having the Insignia brighter and the Sony possibly darker. It might also be that being Best Buy's own store brand, there is more of a profit margin with Insignia than Sony (that's only a guess on my part).


----------



## drkashner

Well, before I went to bed I turned the 960 off and back on about 5 times and it worked ok. I guess because it was warm. This morning, I couldn't get it to come on again, tried the diagnostic mode and it wouldn't come on either. I'm thinking you are right about the highest end tv's. I'm thinking about the 7000 series of Samsung plasmas instead of the 8000,now. The new 8000 has a touchscreen remote that I've read that many people don't like. The 7000 comes with regular remote.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drkashner* /forum/post/20115447
> 
> 
> Well, before I went to bed I turned the 960 off and back on about 5 times and it worked ok. I guess because it was warm. This morning, I couldn't get it to come on again, tried the diagnostic mode and it wouldn't come on either. I'm thinking you are right about the highest end tv's. I'm thinking about the 7000 series of Samsung plasmas instead of the 8000,now. The new 8000 has a touchscreen remote that I've read that many people don't like. The 7000 comes with regular remote.



Drk,


Sorry to learn that the problem returned. We all know how you must feel.


Just find out the cost of having the 960 fixed compared to having to buy a new set. Or if you do go that route, yes, would stick with the Plasma and not go into the higher priced model and save some money.


Good luck with what you eventually decide upon and again, sorry that the problem wasn't resolved after all.


----------



## gregtro

My 960 has died. It turned off on it's own last night. I tried unplugging it, no change. I left it unplugged overnight and it came on for about 30 seconds when I plugged it back in this morning, and turned off again.

When I try to turn it on the standby light flashes three times.

I bought it new early 2000 ?

Had some problems in May 2007, they had problems figuring out what was wrong, and they replaced all the boards and the picture tube, which was the problem all along. (while under warrenty)

It will cost 100. to find out what's wrong and that is waived if I go with the advised repairs.

I love the picture on this TV and would rather not get an LCD, but I don't know if I should put any money into this given it's age.

May I have some advice please ?


Thank You,


Greg


----------



## unclepauly

If the cost is anywhere near 3-400 usd to fix I wouldn't do it as you can find people selling them for that much... unless you already invested in your set with pro calibration then maybe it's worth it. I may buy another set for when this one dies because I don't see anything touching it for pure quality picture until oled hits, and trust me there will be growing pains for that technology.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gregtro* /forum/post/20170423
> 
> 
> My 960 has died. It turned off on it's own last night. I tried unplugging it, no change. I left it unplugged overnight and it came on for about 30 seconds when I plugged it back in this morning, and turned off again.
> 
> When I try to turn it on the standby light flashes three times.
> 
> I bought it new early 2000 ?
> 
> Had some problems in May 2007, they had problems figuring out what was wrong, and they replaced all the boards and the picture tube, which was the problem all along. (while under warrenty)
> 
> It will cost 100. to find out what's wrong and that is waived if I go with the advised repairs.
> 
> I love the picture on this TV and would rather not get an LCD, but I don't know if I should put any money into this given it's age.
> 
> May I have some advice please ?
> 
> 
> Thank You,
> 
> 
> Greg



Hi Greg,


Before the set stopped working, did you notice any slight deterioration in picture quality over the years? If not, then it might be worth getting it fixed than replacing it with a LCD because the cost would probably be in the same ballpark and you might wind up with a less satisfying picture.


Tough decision but I suggest going with what is more comfortable for you since you are concerned about the 960's age. Though some CRTs start to show sign of age in seven years, I've also read that it is not unusual for the picture quality to remain the same for at least 15. And the 960's SFP tube is not your average CRT. Putting myself in your position my first thought would be replace it with a plasma which from all accounts offers better picture quality than LCD (and no problem with viewing angles).


Go to an electronics store and look at the Plasmas to see how the picture on the bigger screen appeals to you. If you're not happy with what you see, use that experience in making your decision.


Good luck


----------



## drkashner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/20116789
> 
> 
> Drk,
> 
> 
> Sorry to learn that the problem returned. We all know how you must feel.
> 
> 
> Just find out the cost of having the 960 fixed compared to having to buy a new set. Or if you do go that route, yes, would stick with the Plasma and not go into the higher priced model and save some money.
> 
> 
> Good luck with what you eventually decide upon and again, sorry that the problem wasn't resolved after all.



Well, I replaced my 960 with a Samsung 51 inch plasma d8000. It arrived yesterday, so I'm still trying to figure everything out, since this is my first flat panel. Watched Fringe last night from my dvr and the picture was excellent except for one thing. I'm noticing sometimes blacks are not really black like they were on the crt. I didn't get it for the 3d but I got a 3d package for free which supposedly cost $400. 2 sets of glasses and the Shrek movies, which I can't play since I don't have a BD player. I have Directv DVR HR20 and the 3d channels that started up, but when I put the tv into 3d mode and switch to one of the 3d channels, I get a message from the receiver that the dvr isn't compatible with my 3d equipment. According to Directv's website, my HR20 should do 3d. Have HDMI cables changed since 7 years ago? That's the only thing I could think of that could be wrong. I also never got a BD player to work on my 960. I have a WD Live Hub and that works great with the new tv. If anyone would want my 960 for free, and is close to me in southern PA all you have to do is pick it up.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drkashner* /forum/post/20173413
> 
> 
> I have Directv DVR HR20 and the 3d channels that started up, but when I put the tv into 3d mode and switch to one of the 3d channels, I get a message from the receiver that the dvr isn't compatible with my 3d equipment. According to Directv's website, my HR20 should do 3d. Have HDMI cables changed since 7 years ago? That's the only thing I could think of that could be wrong.



Yes, they have. Several versions, and it might be that your old HDMI cable is not capable of delivering the 1080p/60 digital stream required for 3D.


Read about the different types of HDMI cable in this introductory article


----------



## drkashner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/20174430
> 
> 
> Yes, they have. Several versions, and it might be that your old HDMI cable is not capable of delivering the 1080p/60 digital stream required for 3D.
> 
> 
> Read about the different types of HDMI cable in this introductory article



thanks, I'm going to try a new HDMI cable when I get a chance.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *drkashner* /forum/post/20173413
> 
> 
> Well, I replaced my 960 with a Samsung 51 inch plasma d8000. It arrived yesterday, so I'm still trying to figure everything out, since this is my first flat panel. Watched Fringe last night from my dvr and the picture was excellent except for one thing. I'm noticing sometimes blacks are not really black like they were on the crt. I didn't get it for the 3d but I got a 3d package for free which supposedly cost $400. 2 sets of glasses and the Shrek movies, which I can't play since I don't have a BD player. I have Directv DVR HR20 and the 3d channels that started up, but when I put the tv into 3d mode and switch to one of the 3d channels, I get a message from the receiver that the dvr isn't compatible with my 3d equipment. According to Directv's website, my HR20 should do 3d. Have HDMI cables changed since 7 years ago? That's the only thing I could think of that could be wrong. I also never got a BD player to work on my 960. I have a WD Live Hub and that works great with the new tv. If anyone would want my 960 for free, and is close to me in southern PA all you have to do is pick it up.



Am sure the problem has to do with older HDMI cables.


Congratulations on your new set and enjoy. Let us know what you think of the 3D effect.


----------



## hollypop

KD34XBR960- Cablecard- Verizon FIOS


Has anybody gotten a Motorola M Stream cablecard to work with Verizon FIOS.


I switched from RCN but now the Verizon Fios cablecard is not working.


When inserted the cablecard screen pops up with"Copy Protection Error"


I understand this has to do with Verizon implementing -Simulcrypt-


Does anyone know of a workaround so that I don't have to get a set top box (STB) ?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hollypop* /forum/post/20195307
> 
> 
> KD34XBR960- Cablecard- Verizon FIOS
> 
> 
> Has anybody gotten a Motorola M Stream cablecard to work with Verizon FIOS.
> 
> 
> I switched from RCN but now the Verizon Fios cablecard is not working.
> 
> 
> When inserted the cablecard screen pops up with"Copy Protection Error"
> 
> 
> I understand this has to do with Verizon implementing -Simulcrypt-
> 
> 
> Does anyone know of a workaround so that I don't have to get a set top box (STB) ?



I know nothing... but is this an M-Card? This is for multiple tuners.


I suspect the XBR960 expected an S-Card (single tuner).


Just speculating...


----------



## RalphArch

As mentioned in the other posted thread my Verizon Fios is working in my 960 with a Motorola M card - there are different versions; but verizon notified users they no longer support these older tvs several months ago; and that my card would stop working (it didn't stop working on the announced day - but obviously no support at this time)


----------



## Ennui




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RalphArch* /forum/post/20199104
> 
> 
> As mentioned in the other posted thread my Verizon Fios is working in my 960 with a Motorola M card - there are different versions; but verizon notified users they no longer support these older tvs several months ago; and that my card would stop working (it didn't stop working on the announced day - but obviously no support at this time)



When I first got a CableCARD for the 960, it took two or three before the Cox service guy got one that worked. I would try another before giving up.


----------



## RalphArch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ennui* /forum/post/20199525
> 
> 
> When I first got a CableCARD for the 960, it took two or three before the Cox service guy got one that worked. I would try another before giving up.




Same here - three trips. But what I meant to say was that at least for Verizon in our area they have formally given up on the older cable card displays and formally announced they would not support. I doubt you could get multiple (or any) trips out of a Verizon tech today. And only they can do the card pairing - they will not allow a customer to pair the card and require a technician visit


----------



## Joseph Dubin

This is another testimonial as to how great the 960 is.


Yesterday at the office a Director from another office plucked two tickets for the Mets home opener in my hand. These weren't ordinary seats - they were the high roller kind that cost $189 each and had a private lounge with complimentary food and drink. Because it was getting cold, my wife and I along with some others watched the last three innings in the heated comfort of the lounge to watch the rest of the game. There were also flat screen monitors on the walls and I was amazed at just how poor the quality of the picture was compared to Met games I see at home. This wasn't on just one or two but every monitor they had on. This morning the game was replayed so I saw the same broadcast and again, no comparison.


Will admit the color was a bit over saturated but the picture was so soft and without the detail to what I'm used to.


Again, a testimonial to the 960 - but the Mets lost the game anyway. .


----------



## unclepauly

Yeah, it blows anybodys mind that gets to see it. My brother said "damn, it looks so crispy"... I suppose thats good lol. They always say, "it looks like a flat screen" (well duh, it is) to which my reply is "dude it's better"


well that's my expertly crafted testimonial haha


----------



## DSperber

I especially like how it deals with 720p source signal, presented as "native" from either my DVR or my HTPC.


Simply stunning (e.g. for all the programs on FOX networks, like "AI", and also on all of the ABC/ESPN networks).


I deliver 720p as 720p to my XBR960 instead of allowing upconversion to 1080i. To me the difference is quite visible, as upconverted 720p->1080i to me looks a bit blurred, or at least not as absolutely knife-sharp as native 720p does. Definitely different, and definitely "native 720p" is absolutely the winner.


Not to re-open that other discussion, but I have my "sharpness" set at MIN... and will not budge on that one. It looks like I'm right there in the AI television studio, with the XBR650 presenting color and brightness and contrast as if I were looking through an open window. Closeups of the judges are stimply stunning, in their realism and perfect human-skin color accuracy, as well as the rest of the perfectly rendered color gamut in their hair, makeup and clothing.


XBR960. Always was, and always will be: THE REFERENCE.


(watch it in a pitch black room, for maximum effect... like 3D)


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Quote:

Originally Posted by *DSperber* 
I especially like how it deals with 720p source signal, presented as "native" from either my DVR or my HTPC.


Simply stunning (e.g. for all the programs on FOX networks, like "AI", and also on all of the ABC/ESPN networks).


I deliver 720p as 720p to my XBR960 instead of allowing upconversion to 1080i. To me the difference is quite visible, as upconverted 720p->1080i to me looks a bit blurred, or at least not as absolutely knife-sharp as native 720p does. Definitely different, and definitely "native 720p" is absolutely the winner.


Not to re-open that other discussion, but I have my "sharpness" set at MIN... and will not budge on that one. It looks like I'm right there in the AI television studio, with the XBR650 presenting color and brightness and contrast as if I were looking through an open window. Closeups of the judges are stimply stunning, in their realism and perfect human-skin color accuracy, as well as the rest of the perfectly rendered color gamut in their hair, makeup and clothing.


XBR960. Always was, and always will be: THE REFERENCE.


(watch it in a pitch black room, for maximum effect... like 3D)
You are right about having the sharpness set to the soft side. Too often people set their sharpness and edge enhancements too high and mistake grainy artifacts for increased detail. Not only does this cause an unnatural looking picture but it actually masks the detail brought out by a more correct softer setting.


Each set is unique so settings are expected to differ somewhat. My sharpness on HD is set at 19 with low edge enhancement. It's also that way for my up-converting DVD player/recorder but with the edge enhancement at medium (I think in these two cases the medium setting helps since the original source is not true 1080i). I used test patterns for the adjustments.


After re-calibrating the 960 I noticed that the same incremental increase in the user sharpness were more subtle than before so my 19 might be softer than it is for others.


I have a HDMI switch box so an up-converting DVD recorder could be connected to video Seven along with our DVR. For the DVR, I use the PRO mode, however, the same user settings, while quite close, do need more precise adjustments for up-converted DVD. So for commercial DVD I used the MOVIE mode and for my DVD-R recordings made off HD stations via a s-video cable (down-converted, of course, to 480i for recording purposes) I use the STANDARD mode. It beats having to instead change each of the settings.


The Mets finally looked as good as the 960 tonight and it was almost like being at the park -- it being a night game, watching it in a darkened room only added to that feeling.


----------



## RalphArch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/20282565
> 
> 
> I especially like how it deals with 720p source signal, presented as "native" from either my DVR or my HTPC.
> 
> 
> Simply stunning (e.g. for all the programs on FOX networks, like "AI", and also on all of the ABC/ESPN networks).
> 
> 
> I deliver 720p as 720p to my XBR960 instead of allowing upconversion to 1080i. To me the difference is quite visible, as upconverted 720p->1080i to me looks a bit blurred, or at least not as absolutely knife-sharp as native 720p does. Definitely different, and definitely "native 720p" is absolutely the winner.



To clarify - I suppose your point is that the conversion to 1080i that the XBR960 does from 720p source is superior to a conversion from your particular STB and/or HTPC.


IMO that would be clearly a function of the particular box and not a generic preference, since in the end the 960 only displays in 1080i, no matter the source resolution. True?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RalphArch* /forum/post/20284123
> 
> 
> To clarify - I suppose your point is that the conversion to 1080i that the XBR960 does from 720p source is superior to a conversion from your particular STB and/or HTPC.



True.




> Quote:
> IMO that would be clearly a function of the particular box and not a generic preference, since in the end the 960 only displays in 1080i, no matter the source resolution. True?



True.


My position is that it is always better to feed "native" resolutions (720p or 1080i digital, or even 480i analog) to the HDTV and leave it to the HDTV itself to process or optimize or upconvert or DRC or whatever to that source signal, rather than to have a standard DVR/STB or HTPC/videocard do it before delivery.


Assuming there is some native display resolution for a given HDTV, and that the engineers who designed the HDTV itself probably best know how to handle any given source input resolution on that HDTV, I vote to let the HDTV do whatever it wants to do to give me the best visual result.


I always send "native" resolution from my source devices.


----------



## unclepauly

To be fair there are some crappy upconverters in some of these tv's out here. For example my old ws rp crt did 720>1080i and it was pretty horrific, 1st gen upconverter though. Letting my ps3 do it was much better.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/20284234
> 
> 
> True.
> 
> 
> 
> True.
> 
> 
> My position is that it is always better to feed "native" resolutions (720p or 1080i digital, or even 480i analog) to the HDTV and leave it to the HDTV itself to process or optimize or upconvert or DRC or whatever to that source signal, rather than to have a standard DVR/STB or HTPC/videocard do it before delivery.
> 
> 
> Assuming there is some native display resolution for a given HDTV, and that the engineers who designed the HDTV itself probably best know how to handle any given source input resolution on that HDTV, I vote to let the HDTV do whatever it wants to do to give me the best visual result.
> 
> 
> I always send "native" resolution from my source devices.



Was feeding the "native" resolutions to the 960 for quite some time but later found that up-converted signals indeed provided better picture quality. This included sporting events on FOX that were only 720p. Definitely helps on DVD. Up-conversion even enables standard definition broadcasts to appear a bit smoother.


Many flat screen owners have written on various forums that up-converted DVDs don't come close to looking as great as their bluray equivalents, however, that is not the case with the 960 when up-conversion is applied.


----------



## Red5Five

Good News and Bad News:


First the bad news, it looks like my beloved 960 has burned thru its tuner. Good news: everything else seems to work A-OK.


These past few month there've been repeated "cold tuner" issues. It takes a good 5-10 minutes to warmup before I can actually bring in a station. (especially bad this January with Chicago's Blizzard of '11!) Last week it just stopped altogether--no station would come in.


However, all the other video inputs work and it otherwise functions normally. I'm using my eyeTV tuner connected via my Mac Mini and a Zenith DTV tuner into Video 1--actually each one brings in a stronger signal than the 960 did.


Debating whether or not to have someone look at it.


Any ideas?


Can you recommend anyone in the Chicago area?


Crossing my fingers nothing else goes wrong.


----------



## Ennui




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Red5Five* /forum/post/20286489
> 
> 
> Good News and Bad News:
> 
> 
> Any ideas?



I have a TiVo connected via HDMI to my 960. Works very well. The TiVo HD is cheap ($50-$75) on Ebay but you have a programming charge that is monthly or you can pay for lifetime for a couple hundred dollars. FYI.


----------



## sjitalian

my buddy has a couple panasonic plasmas and every time he comes over and looks at my xbr960 he says-wow this thing really has a great picture-better in fact than his plasmas.i have a denon 3808ci avr that has an oppo 83,toshiba a35,ps3.and directtv hd stb and i have never had an hdmi handshake issue with it.tv is native 1080i and all hd material looks great.i dont want to replace this thing cause i believe its a classic tv.plus its one heavy son of a gun and i dont want to get a hernia moving it.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sjitalian* /forum/post/20324012
> 
> 
> my buddy has a couple panasonic plasmas and every time he comes over and looks at my xbr960 he says-wow this thing really has a great picture-better in fact than his plasmas.i have a denon 3808ci avr that has an oppo 83,toshiba a35,ps3.and directtv hd stb and i have never had an hdmi handshake issue with it.tv is native 1080i and all hd material looks great.i dont want to replace this thing cause i believe its a classic tv.plus its one heavy son of a gun and i dont want to get a hernia moving it.



As one who went through two hernia operations I can completely understand your concern. And as one who owns the 960, I can agree about not ever wanting to replace it. It's a monster, both in weight and performance.


Unfortunately, not many know how great HD and up-converted DVD pictures look on CRT, especially the 960, since their only CRT experience had always been watching standard definition. When HD finally took off the industry equated the more expensive flat screen with HD which subtly implied that CRT was not up to the chore, though not stating it as fact.


----------



## music_to_my_ear

Guys,


Got a deal on the table for the XBR 800 HD CRT set for around $125 bucks. Unfortunately ive come across this thread from a few owners that the picture is locked when viewing hd material, meaning its not a full picture - two black bars above and beneath the picture. You're unable to 'zoom' in on the HD material to rid the picture of the black bars.


My question is: Are there any HD CRT sets by Sony or Toshiba or Panasonic that do not have this problem?


XBR 800 does. Not sure about the HS510 or the 960/970. Not sure about the 34HF83 by Toshiba.


Any owners out there?


----------



## RalphArch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *music_to_my_ear* /forum/post/20339399
> 
> 
> Guys,
> 
> 
> Got a deal on the table for the XBR 800 HD CRT set for around $125 bucks. Unfortunately ive come across this thread from a few owners that the picture is locked when viewing hd material, meaning its not a full picture - two black bars above and beneath the picture. You're unable to 'zoom' in on the HD material to rid the picture of the black bars.
> 
> 
> My question is: Are there any HD CRT sets by Sony or Toshiba or Panasonic that do not have this problem?
> 
> 
> XBR 800 does. Not sure about the HS510 or the 960/970. Not sure about the 34HF83 by Toshiba.
> 
> 
> Any owners out there?



The 36KD955xs and similar later model SONY 4:3 HD sets all squeeze the scan lines into a 16:9 window whenever an HD signal is sensed. To release the window you press the zoom button which the displays a 4:3 portion of the 16:9 signal full screen and still in high definition. Although typically there is some overscan with this approach you do lose the letter box you are describing.


I am surprised the set you refer to doesn't have a zoom mode but I don't own one to check.


----------



## drvais




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *music_to_my_ear* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You're unable to 'zoom' in on the HD material to rid the picture of the black bars.



For the love of everything HD, please tell me that you're not planning to crop ~2.35:1 aspect ratios to 1.78:1.


----------



## KBI




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/20327054
> 
> 
> As one who went through two hernia operations I can completely understand your concern. And as one who owns the 960, I can agree about not ever wanting to replace it. It's a monster, both in weight and performance.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, not many know how great HD and up-converted DVD pictures look on CRT, especially the 960, since their only CRT experience had always been watching standard definition. When HD finally took off the industry equated the more expensive flat screen with HD which subtly implied that CRT was not up to the chore, though not stating it as fact.



Watching 480i DVDs in 4:3 is stunning on the 960..


----------



## RobMeyer1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *music_to_my_ear* /forum/post/20339399
> 
> 
> Guys,
> 
> 
> Got a deal on the table for the XBR 800 HD CRT set for around $125 bucks. Unfortunately ive come across this thread from a few owners that the picture is locked when viewing hd material, meaning its not a full picture - two black bars above and beneath the picture. You're unable to 'zoom' in on the HD material to rid the picture of the black bars.
> 
> 
> My question is: Are there any HD CRT sets by Sony or Toshiba or Panasonic that do not have this problem?
> 
> 
> XBR 800 does. Not sure about the HS510 or the 960/970. Not sure about the 34HF83 by Toshiba.
> 
> 
> Any owners out there?



I remember seeing this TV before I bought the TV this thread is about. It was a 40" CRT monster with 4:3 aspect ratio, so yes HD has black bars above and below an HD picture, but SD material fills the screen. It was the exact opposite of what I wanted. To watch HD you would want a close seat, but for SD material you would need to watch far from the screen or the poor resolution of SD material would be glaringly obvious. I just glanced at the online manual. There is no "Screen Mode" button on the remote, so I don't think you can zoom the picture like you can on the 960.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KBI* /forum/post/20341062
> 
> 
> Watching 480i DVDs in 4:3 is stunning on the 960..



Absolutely and the reason why many 960 owners haven't converted to bluray. Also, my DVD-R recordings look quite good when dubbed off HD stations (about an 8 compared to the 10 for the original source when using flexible speed and a s-video input).


And as stunning as the 960 upscales 480p via component, the picture is improved even more when used with a good up-converting player connected VIA HDMI. From what many flat screen owners tell me, this isn't the case with LCD, Plasma or DLP. So that also shows what good old CRT technology is still capable of doing. Even though once experiences HD they hate to watch standard definition, at least on the 960 it isn't at all an eyesore.


----------



## ccordes01

New to the forum. Have a KD-34XBR960 that I am being forced to part with (moving across the country and can't move it).


Anyone interested? Comes with the matching stand (with two shelves). I'm located in Atlanta, GA. Won't ship it (doesn't make sense too), you would need to pick up.


LOVE my TV, but it's time to move on. Sure going to miss this picture. Shoot me a PM if you are interested and we can discuss logistics.


Thanks!


----------



## JA Fant

CCordes01-


this is the best CRT ever. The only rival was a Pioneer Elite 60 inch Plasma.


----------



## Ennui




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JA Fant* /forum/post/20455539
> 
> 
> CCordes01-
> 
> 
> this is the best CRT ever. The only rival was a Pioneer Elite 60 inch Plasma.



Best HD CRT...the 4:3 XBR100 (1997) was a very good CRT equalling the 960 in my opinion.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ennui* /forum/post/20464846
> 
> 
> Best HD CRT...the 4:3 XBR100 (1997) was a very good CRT equaling the 960 in my opinion.



Of course this is one of those subjects there will likely never be an answer to, but I would probably dispute this claim.


My cousin has an XBR800, and I have an XBR960... and these are not equivalent in picture quality. They're just not. Is the XBR800 very good? Yes. Is its picture quality equal to that of my XBR960 when watching HD content? I say definitely not. The SFP picture tube in the 960 is just better, and the resulting image (presumably also the result of improved internal electronics and firmware to match, based on the enhanced service menu capabilities in the 960) is correspondingly better.


And that's the 16:9 XBR800, which I have to assume has a superior picture to the 4:3 XBR100 (though I've never seen one).


I suppose only a technical ISF-like objective comparison would truly settle this. Otherwise, it's really just a subjective discussion.


As for me, I will keep using my 960 until it dies.


----------



## salty

Yeah, I'd be a little skeptical of a TV from 1997 equalling the 960 in any respect. I'm sure it was a fine set, but the SFP tubes were pretty much the pinnacle for consumer 1080i displays...and the reason why this thread keeps on going year after year.


----------



## Garrett Adams

My 34XBR2 from 2001 is still going strong. Recently I started using my HTPC's Nvidia color setting controls which offers greater flexibility than the Sony's picture control. I can afford a new HDTV but I can't come with a valid excuse.


----------



## Ennui




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *salty* /forum/post/20465710
> 
> 
> Yeah, I'd be a little skeptical of a TV from 1997 equalling the 960 in any respect. I'm sure it was a fine set, but the SFP tubes were pretty much the pinnacle for consumer 1080i displays...and the reason why this thread keeps on going year after year.



We bought ours new for $3000 in 1997 from Circuit City. This is the only model I have seen that had a separate tuner box. It had a "Super Trinitron" picture tube with 800 lines of horizontal resolution. It was still working well when we turned it in for our 46XBR8. The exact model is KV-32XBR100 and there are specs still at Sony's esupport site: http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/mod...mdl=KV32XBR100 . (We still have our 960 and are very pleased with it.)


I remember fighting with Cox to get good signal strength into the house in the 90's. HGTV had the best cameras in 1997 and had a noticeably better picture than the other channels.


----------



## RalphArch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JA Fant* /forum/post/20455539
> 
> 
> CCordes01-
> 
> 
> this is the best CRT ever. The only rival was a Pioneer Elite 60 inch Plasma.



Since I have owned, and still own, three HD crts I do note the SFP SONY's are slightly, but not markedly, superior to my RCA 36MM100.


As far as the SONY's, go I like the 36kd955xs picture better than my 960's so the latter is in the basement and little used and the 4:3 is primary viewing - but the 960 has the firewire capability advantage so I wouldn't part with it.


The bottom line is that they are all performing admirably with two of the three still in daily use after all these years. I know the NEC poster didn't like the reliability of the SONY's and RCAs but you could have (and they did) fool me


----------



## NextGen

Hey guys. I have the 34XS955 (same tubes) equivalent of the 960 and I also agree that the set is absolutely stunning. As some of you know, _hi there DSperber and thanks again for all your hard work along with Kentech and ADR for the Sony Service Code thread_, I use my CRT for gaming, which is actually a bit different that watching movies.


Game textures use different types of compression, shaders, lighting, and all sorts of things are done differently and in real time. They all simply act a bit different than compressed video. I just re-visited my set and re-worked everything from the geometry to the manual focus adjustment on the back of the set. I went through nearly everything and read up on more "stuff" about the codes and, although 99% of it is still Greek to me, I did end up copying a set of codes for the 3DNR and DRCV groups that appear to be "almost" universal for the majority of 34XS955's.


Other than some typical geometry and horizontal convergence issues the set looks pretty phenomenal. It's as if the processing used in these sets, when tweaked to taste, can offer the same benefits graphics cards in PC's have. Things like texture filtering and anti-aliasing can be, in a sense, pulled out of these sets. I plan on picking up an XBR960 if I can find one in decent shape. There are a lot of things I wish I knew when I first tinkered with my set but, you live and learn, I was just dumb about things back then. I'll consider my 955 a testbed and take the knowledge I gained and use it on the 960 when I get a few dollars to hunt one down.


It's too bad SED didn't come around or that CRT manufacturers pushed the tech a bit further.


----------



## MMMT1986

Purchased one locally on craigslist last Tues. Paid $220 with matching stand, shelf, remote, and manuals.


What is the best way to set up and program the following components:


1.) AT&T U-Verse Cisco TV. box


2.) Sony DVP-NS575P DVD player


3.) Sony SLV-679HF VHS player


4.) Sony AV Cordless IR receiver IFT-R10 (so videos from Sony CCD-TRV43 NTSC camcorder can be viewed without cords), if possible


5.) Sony E Series Laptop VPCEB, if possible


Is it still possible to use the integrated tuner, or do I have to use the new ones that were offered during the government transition in the event I want to use over -the-air signal instead of paid viewing?


Any recommendations for altering audio and visual settings for best sound and picture, as I have read that the spec. settings are not optimal


All comments appreciated![/size][/font]


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Well, notice that the coating is starting to come off more along the left edge of the screen. It's noticable when the set is off (no big deal) and can only be viewed when all the lights are on and one sits from toward the right of the set. With the lights on low, it is only slightly noticable (if one looks for it) at a certain angle only.


But it does bother me.


I've read where others have removed the coating. Is it difficult to do and can it leave the screen in even worse condition that before? Or is there some sort of liquid that can actually cover up the blotches and return it closely resembling the orginal?


And without any anti-glare coating, is the picture quality affected in any way by being too bright, etc. which cannot be compensated with user adjustments.


Thanks as always,

Joe


----------



## neccrttv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RalphArch* /forum/post/20468900
> 
> 
> The bottom line is that they are all performing admirably with two of the three still in daily use after all these years. I know the NEC poster didn't like the reliability of the SONY's and RCAs but you could have (and they did) fool me



If you're talking about the post for a TV to consider, he wanted a SD TV, not a high-end HD CRT.

The reliabilty of the XBR sets is not to be compared with the usual Sony's. The construction quality of the circuit, picture tube and soldering quality is on a complete different class than the FS series(KV-32FS120 esp.) and all the S and V series from 1997 on. I have repaired so much of these TV's (like more than 40-60 per year) for supply, tube, vertical, bad solders, the awesome blinking issue where the TV won't come on but you can open it with the service menu (32fs120) and even tube failures and all. I even saw one of the WEGA sets that the resistor INSIDE the tube had burned up. Why they put a resistor inside the vacuum is a question to ask Sony, since it had to be scrapped.

The only repairs I made on XBR 34" are picture tube problems (blue cathode had shorted, tube was shot) but as for circuitry, everything was perfect and very well constructed.

I would buy oe


----------



## neccrttv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RalphArch* /forum/post/20468900
> 
> 
> The bottom line is that they are all performing admirably with two of the three still in daily use after all these years. I know the NEC poster didn't like the reliability of the SONY's and RCAs but you could have (and they did) fool me



If you're talking about the post for a TV to consider, he wanted a SD TV, not a high-end HD CRT.

The reliabilty of the XBR sets is not to be compared with the usual Sony's. The construction quality of the circuit, picture tube and soldering quality is on a complete different class than the FS series(KV-32FS120 esp.) and all the S and V series from 1997 on. I have repaired so much of these TV's (like more than 40-60 per year) for supply, tube, vertical, bad solders, the awesome blinking issue where the TV won't come on but you can open it with the service menu (32fs120) and even tube failures and all. I even saw one of the WEGA sets that the resistor INSIDE the tube had burned up. Why they put a resistor inside the vacuum is a question to ask Sony, since it had to be scrapped.

The only repairs I made on XBR 34" 's are picture tube problems (the blue cathodes had shorted, tube was shot) but as for circuitry, everything was perfect and very well constructed.


----------



## Ennui




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neccrttv* /forum/post/20488106
> 
> 
> The reliabilty of the XBR sets is not to be compared with the usual Sony's. The construction quality of the circuit, picture tube and soldering quality is on a complete different class than the FS series(KV-32FS120 esp.) and all the S and V series from 1997 on. I have repaired so much of these TV's (like more than 40-60 per year) for supply, tube, vertical, bad solders, the awesome blinking issue where the TV won't come on but you can open it with the service menu (32fs120) and even tube failures and all. I even saw one of the WEGA sets that the resistor INSIDE the tube had burned up. Why they put a resistor inside the vacuum is a question to ask Sony, since it had to be scrapped.
> 
> The only repairs I made on XBR 34" 's are picture tube problems (the blue cathodes had shorted, tube was shot) but as for circuitry, everything was perfect and very well constructed.



The '97 TV I had was an XBR2 (XBR squared). FYI.


----------



## laststop311

how much is this tv worth? Buddy of mine is upgrading to a 60 inch 6020 kuro and he is selling this tv with the sony stand that was made for it. He wants 400 dollars for it, including the stand, which seems a little steep. He did baby the hell out of the tv I dont think I ever saw a spec of dust on it ever the past 6 years hes owned it. It does look like it just got opened out the box. But it was used heavily he says he would average out the use of it to 16 hours a day everyday (some days not used sometimes left on 24 hours while sleeping) this comes out to 35,000 hours of use on the tv. Whats the expect life of this tv?


I already own a Samsung un55b8500 and un46b8500 the 46 inch in the basement and 55 inch in the family room. Just thinking of getting something cheap to put in the guest bedroom and I guess this crt is supposed to have superior PQ to everything else (but the full array local dimming samsung b8500 series I think looks crisper and has pure deep blacks plus its massively bigger. Just the viewing angle sucks[but i always get the sweet spot for viewing])


So is 400 a good price for this tv (including the stand sony made for it) with 35k hours on it or is it about to poop out?


----------



## salty




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *laststop311* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> how much is this tv worth? Buddy of mine is upgrading to a 60 inch 6020 kuro and he is selling this tv with the sony stand that was made for it. He wants 400 dollars for it, including the stand, which seems a little steep. He did baby the hell out of the tv I dont think I ever saw a spec of dust on it ever the past 6 years hes owned it. It does look like it just got opened out the box. But it was used heavily he says he would average out the use of it to 16 hours a day everyday (some days not used sometimes left on 24 hours while sleeping) this comes out to 35,000 hours of use on the tv. Whats the expect life of this tv?
> 
> 
> I already own a Samsung un55b8500 and un46b8500 the 46 inch in the basement and 55 inch in the family room. Just thinking of getting something cheap to put in the guest bedroom and I guess this crt is supposed to have superior PQ to everything else (but the full array local dimming samsung b8500 series I think looks crisper and has pure deep blacks plus its massively bigger. Just the viewing angle sucks[but i always get the sweet spot for viewing])
> 
> 
> So is 400 a good price for this tv (including the stand sony made for it) with 35k hours on it or is it about to poop out?



I would say that's too high, especially if it has 35k hours on the tube. That's a lot of use and I do think that it's probably getting to the end of it's service life if it was left on all the time like that.


Sounds like he's already gotten his money's worth out of it . I'd pay no more than 200 bucks.


----------



## neccrttv

Like the previous poster said, 400$ is too much. But 35k hours is nothing for a crt. If the tube seems still strong - whites are white, black and white is black and white - 200-250$ is a very good price for a 34XBR960 and it should have a lot of hours left in it. Also, do check if it ever had any problems or shut-down with the self-check menu (Display, 5 , vol - , power).


----------



## laststop311

The picture on it looks perfect. I still think my un55b8500 looks better. Everyone in here is talking like lcd and plasma is garbage compared to this set. Look at the blacks and whites of a b8500 with full array led local dimming. the blacks are as black as black can be. Sure in extreme situations like credits scrolling u can notice a slight brighter black halo around the letters but other than that the b8500 does an amazing job.


neccrttv what exactly am i looking for in the service menu? does it show the hours the tube has on it because he kinda guessed at 35k? What is the average life expectancy of the tube on this set? I guess tubes do last pretty long my grandma has a 1950's black and white tv that still works the same as when she bought it 60 freakin years ago.



The picture definately looks good on this set. But to say it is superior to every lcd and plasma is just so false. The pioneer kuro 9g has black levels that are barely even readable almost pure black and pioneer had the tech to make zero black level panels i think they called it fuga but they got out the game before it came to market.


Just help me out with the service menu thing ill try to get him to drop the price ill tell him to come look at this thread










also remember crt's went through like what 100 generations. Look what pioneer did with just 9 generations. Imagine how good plasmas will look if there were 100 generations of them.


----------



## neccrttv




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *laststop311* /forum/post/20528907
> 
> 
> The picture on it looks perfect. I still think my un55b8500 looks better. Everyone in here is talking like lcd and plasma is garbage compared to this set. Look at the blacks and whites of a b8500 with full array led local dimming. the blacks are as black as black can be. Sure in extreme situations like credits scrolling u can notice a slight brighter black halo around the letters but other than that the b8500 does an amazing job.
> 
> 
> neccrttv what exactly am i looking for in the service menu? does it show the hours the tube has on it because he kinda guessed at 35k? What is the average life expectancy of the tube on this set? I guess tubes do last pretty long my grandma has a 1950's black and white tv that still works the same as when she bought it 60 freakin years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> The picture definately looks good on this set. But to say it is superior to every lcd and plasma is just so false. The pioneer kuro 9g has black levels that are barely even readable almost pure black and pioneer had the tech to make zero black level panels i think they called it fuga but they got out the game before it came to market.
> 
> 
> Just help me out with the service menu thing ill try to get him to drop the price ill tell him to come look at this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also remember crt's went through like what 100 generations. Look what pioneer did with just 9 generations. Imagine how good plasmas will look if there were 100 generations of them.



CRT have a very high life expentency, I have seen myself some from the 70's that are used every day for 8-10 hours and that no color has shifted.

XBR sets have better tubes usually than the lower end models. Usually they have tubes made for crt monitors (M tubes instead of A tubes for example A68ADT27X01(27" RCA) and M90AHL50X like my XP37 Xtra (36" NEC)) that outlast most tubes. Remember that after about 1995, most companies shifted to Mexico for their factory's and tube quality(geometry, convergence), and life expentency suffered a lot. Life expentency shifted from 15-25 years to 5-10 years in low end V and S series of Sony. Try using the circuit of a 2001 Panasonic in a broken GAOO of 1994. It looked better than the 2001 and the 2001 was almost unused while the 1994's tube had been used for over 10 years at 2-4 hours daily.

Tube quality is so much lower than before... I've seen 1990's XBR (SD) with better quality in S-Video than most plasmas and lcd's in HD...


The XBR960 and the DA4 chassis is a chassis that has many digital filters and all and picture would have been 10 times better had it been analog multisync instead of digital. It's only a HDTV, like all LCD's and plasmas.

CRT and LCD (not LED LCD mind you) are not to be compared really, they are two completely different ways of showing an image. One is using additive coloring and the other one, subtractive (filtering) coloring.

I have to admit, Samsung makes by far some of the best LCD's and with the advent of select Led backlight control, LCD has surpassed any recent CRT HDTV (not monitors) since tube quality control is so low.

Only high end CRT and CRT monitors surpass LCD and plasma but since like 99% of the population has ugly low-end CRT's, of course lcd and plasma have taken over. Size and cost of construction was too much.


For all Sony's that are recent (1990 + and even older). the service menu can be attained by pressing, while the TV is closed, on the remote, Display, 5 then Volume up and then Power . I'll have to check if the da4 can tell you it's running hours. Pressing Display , 5 , then Vol down and then Power will enter self-check mode and tell you if the Tv has ever had a shutdown or some flashing lights in the past, advising you that the problem could come back.


----------



## azideam

neccrttv - my 960 is one that was assembled here, not in Mexico. Do you know if the sfp tubes in these were made here as well or south of the border?


Also had my first blinking and no display at power-on experience; 11 blinks then nothing. Unplugged it for ~ 30 mins and was its working again. So far, several days of on-off and no reoccurance. I know of the IC issues on these sets, but those are indicated with less blinks. Any ideas?


----------



## neccrttv

Even though it is assembled in PA and not mexico, most parts come from mexico. The tubes are all made at the same plant as far as I know....


As for the 11 blinks, if it ever does occur again, be sure to try to see if it starts up when you get in the service menu (display, 5, vol + and power). If it does, the problem is with the High voltage protect circuit. I have already encountered that 11 blinks many times and the TV works perfectly when in selfcheck or in the SM. A drop of solder on the HV protect transistor solved that in the KV-32FS120 CRT's that had that 11 blinks.

Of course, I'm not sure how that will work on the DA4 chassis since the circuit is a bit different.

What I can say for sure is that usually, 11 blinks means no IC's and parts to change. The TV shouldn't even be able to signal 11 blinks lol.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Neccrttv,


Any safe way of removing the coating on the 960 (non-N model)? It's starting to get splotchy in spots and though with the lights low they cannot be seen, it's still annoying. Or is it better to be safe and sorry and just don't start looking for them when the lights are bright?


----------



## neccrttv

I tried once on a HP monitor. Believe me, nothing will ever make it go away in some monitors. On some (and I say some) TV's it's only a small film on the CRT. But in the case of some CRT'S, like my HP monitor and very probably the XBR960, the anti-glare is a coating that was treated and cooked onto the glass. It cannot be removed unless you sand the whole thing down, and then it would ruin the glass. Tried that, the hours you'd have to waste and the risk of scratching the glass is too much, as I learned the wrong way. Luckily, I had a 2nd HP monitor that was identical but you would not want that to happen to a rare XBR960. Bear with it, believe me, small spots are nothing compared to deep scratches and unsmooth glass....


I believe it's the same as anti-glare in a pair of glasses. It's been cooked and treated to the glass, and now a part of the glass. But, like my glasses, a poor coating method means it starts to decay. I need to make new lens every 3 years because of the anti-glare coating,


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neccrttv* /forum/post/20565573
> 
> 
> I tried once on a HP monitor. Believe me, nothing will ever make it go away in some monitors. On some (and I say some) TV's it's only a small film on the CRT. But in the case of some CRT'S, like my HP monitor and very probably the XBR960, the anti-glare is a coating that was treated and cooked onto the glass. It cannot be removed unless you sand the whole thing down, and then it would ruin the glass. Tried that, the hours you'd have to waste and the risk of scratching the glass is too much, as I learned the wrong way. Luckily, I had a 2nd HP monitor that was identical but you would not want that to happen to a rare XBR960. Bear with it, believe me, small spots are nothing compared to deep scratches and unsmooth glass....
> 
> 
> I believe it's the same as anti-glare in a pair of glasses. It's been cooked and treated to the glass, and now a part of the glass. But, like my glasses, a poor coating method means it starts to decay. I need to make new lens every 3 years because of the anti-glare coating,



Hi Nec,


Thanks for the advice.


I'm with you - leave it alone. It's better than having a scratched up picture tube. What I see now is just glare reflecting off the areas that the coating has come off from. With the lights down low there is nothing to reflect hence, no glare or any notice of the areas with the blotches from most all viewing angles. Still wish Sony made all it's 960s like the 960N - or was there an advantage with the coating being on the outside of the tube?


Joe


----------



## Kool-aid23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/20575043
> 
> 
> Hi Nec,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the advice.
> 
> 
> I'm with you - leave it alone. It's better than having a scratched up picture tube. What I see now is just glare reflecting off the areas that the coating has come off from. With the lights down low there is nothing to reflect hence, no glare or any notice of the areas with the blotches from most all viewing angles. Still wish Sony made all it's 960s like the 960N - or was there an advantage with the coating being on the outside of the tube?
> 
> 
> Joe



Joe,


Neccrttv is right about some of the antiglare coats being "bake" on the tube. However, I believe earlier versions of the 960 had the coating applied differently. A gentleman who had an eariler version was able to peel the coat off. I asked him to send me some pictures and indeed his statements were just. Sony must of made revisions to attempt to correct the problem. Unfortunately, they didn't get it "right" until they started making the 960N. I'm in the same boat as you with the coating peeling off. I've stopped wiping my screen for almost a year now.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kool-aid23* /forum/post/20575110
> 
> 
> Joe,
> 
> 
> Neccrttv is right about some of the antiglare coats being "bake" on the tube. However, I believe earlier versions of the 960 had the coating applied differently. A gentleman who had an eariler version was able to peel the coat off. I asked him to send me some pictures and indeed his statements were just. Sony must of made revisions to attempt to correct the problem. Unfortunately, they didn't get it "right" until they started making the 960N. I'm in the same boat as you with the coating peeling off. I've stopped wiping my screen for almost a year now.



Hi Kool,


Feel the same way as you do. At first I thought it occured because I had used glass plus (which really makes the picture sparkle) but then it happened even with water. Worse is the fact that water leaves streaks on the glass.

So the more one applies a bit more pressure to remove them, the more the chances are of coating peeling off. But the screen does need to be washed to avoid the filmy build-up, even if dusted every day.


Guess we're in a no-win situation. It ain't appealing.










But still, with the lights low, it is not noticable.


----------



## salty

My xs955 had the "peel-off" coating. Came off with about a half an hour's work. Looks a *little* brighter, but nothing too drastically different. However it collects dust now like crazy!


Also the glare is a little worse, obviously. I think I would have just left it on in hindsight, considering I didn't have any blotches etc.


I just have to fiddle with things though.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Quote:

Originally Posted by *salty* 
My xs955 had the "peel-off" coating. Came off with about a half an hour's work. Looks a *little* brighter, but nothing too drastically different. However it collects dust now like crazy!


Also the glare is a little worse, obviously. I think I would have just left it on in hindsight, considering I didn't have any blotches etc.


I just have to fiddle with things though. 
Yeah, I'm going to leave well enough alone and just be very, very gentle with the cold water.


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BTV Mark* /forum/post/17764275
> 
> 
> My set showed the same problem last September...3 days after I was laid off from my job!
> 
> 
> I knew there was a fuse in there somewhere, but I could not find it. So I reluctantly called for service. The serviceman replaced the blown fuse for me. It took him at least 10 minutes of disassembly to access it. (Unfortunately, Sony did their best to hide it!) He told me I was very lucky the fuse was the only problem. He said in every other case he seen, a circuit board was also damaged, which is why the fuse usually blows. (He credited my whole-house surge protector and the old fuse with saving the board...but who knows?)
> 
> 
> My suggestion: Unless you're really handy and comfortable working around electronics, call for service, and hope it's only a fuse.
> 
> 
> Best of luck.
> 
> 
> 
> Mark




Well, about 20 months later, it happened again. The TV wouldn't turn on. Luckily, it turned out to be the same blown fuse again, and not a defective board. This time, using what I learned before, I was able to do the repair myself. I'd like to pass two things along:


1) Radio Shack does indeed have this part. (Although the original could be a fast-blowing fuse. The Radio Shack unit is a slow-blow.) Part # 270-1068. 6.3 amp 5 x 20 mm GMA-type. Sold 4 to a pack.


2) The fuse is on the AZ board (as earlier posts have confirmed). But the fuse can be replaced without moving or rotating the board. (I never figured out how to move or rotate the board.) The fuse is located just the other side of the line plug. Unplug the TV (!!) and take off the back cover. Then grab the line cord's plastic mounting plug and carefully slide it off the board. (It's attached to two short wires on the chassis side. So don't pull too hard.) You will then be able to see the old fuse right next to where the line cord's plastic plug sat (use a flashlight--it's on the top of the board in a socket). I pried the old one out of the socket with a small screwdriver. Then I gently placed the new on on top of the socket with a long-nose pliers. Finally, I pressed down on the fuse with a finger (it j-u-s-t reached!) until it snapped into position. Bingo! It's been working just fine for about two weeks now.


Since this is a slow-blow fuse, I'm hoping it fixes the problem for good. If it doesn't, then I probably have an underlying issue. On the other hand, I see the Internet has 7 and 8 amp fuses listed for sale. So that may be worth trying, although of course I certainly wouldn't do that unless it's a last resort. And I'm not recommending it.



Mark


----------



## cwpl

How do tell pre N from post N is there a N in model number?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cwpl* /forum/post/20614240
> 
> 
> How do tell pre N from post N is there a N in model number?



Yup.


----------



## cwpl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/20617850
> 
> 
> Yup.



Thanks, I have chance to buy one must be pre no N looks new though he wants a lot for it. Now a friends neighbor has a 40'' XBR cheap leaning towards getting it instead. Would get both but have giant TV's everywhere now.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cwpl* /forum/post/20618093
> 
> 
> Thanks, I have chance to buy one must be pre no N looks new though he wants a lot for it. Now a friends neighbor has a 40'' XBR cheap leaning towards getting it instead. Would get both but have giant TV's everywhere now.



I have the non-N model and it was produced in May, 2005. You can find the manufacturing date on the back by the serial numbers. The only difference between the two models is that the N models have the anti-glare coating inside the tube instead on the front - the problem with that is that the coating could come off a bit in areas just from ordinary cleaning. Actually doesn't cause any picture distortion and is not noticable with the lights low.


----------



## natecag

Hi all. I'm trying to locate the service manual for my 960. (MAN I love this TV!). I really want to do some deep digging, I want to mess with everything in the service menu. My real goal is to see if there is any way to turn the 960 into a true Multi-Sync style monitor that won't introduce lag for gaming.


Please PM me if you know where I can get it.


Nate


----------



## salty

There is a LONG thread on here that goes over any and all aspects of the service menu. Its called "sony service codes" Definitely read over that before you adjust anything in the service menu. It's a perfectly safe(and fun) thing to do if you educate yourself a bit.


The only way to use this TV with absolutely zero lag is to set the HDPT setting to zero in the service menu. This bypasses ALL digital post-processing and sends the signal directly to the CRT guns. I have done this with mine, and it really is lag free.


The catch is that you must send a 1080i signal into the TV-if it is any other resolution, thr digital processing kicks in and it will lag, no way around that. I do this with my xbox 360 using component cables. The picture is really nice as well.


Other than that, he OSD menu will smear and flicker at the HDPT "0" setting, but still works fine. I would recommend using component cables if you do this, not hdmi.



Good luck, it's an awesome TV for gaming!


----------



## raouliii




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *natecag* /forum/post/20747257
> 
> 
> ...... My real goal is to see if there is any way to turn the 960 into a true Multi-Sync style monitor that won't introduce lag for gaming......



There's no way to do this. As Salty mentioned, you can bypass quite a bit of processing with a 1080i input with the right service menu changes.


The set only scans its tube at 1080i, all other accepted inputs are converted in the DRC and/or MID processors.


----------



## ertoil

this tv is 576p right ? and accepts 1080i through which connections ?


----------



## salty

No, it can only display 1080i. Anything you input will be scaled to that.


----------



## ertoil




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *salty* /forum/post/20759282
> 
> 
> No, it can only display 1080i. Anything you input will be scaled to that.

















wow


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ertoil* /forum/post/20759297
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wow



But if you've ever actually seen the picture produced by this set no matter whether the input is 720p or 1080i, you'd be astonished.


My prior set was a Sampo 34WHD5 (bought in 2001), which I bought based on reviews and which I thought was absolutely astonishing to look at. It DID accept "native 720P" as well as "native 1080i" (although it only had component video input and not HDMI). I thought I would be missing the native 720p capability when I replaced the Sampo in 2004, with the 34XBR960 I currently still have.


Not the case. The XBR960 has an even more remarkable and realistic and almost 3D-like look about its picture than the Sampo did. It looks like a photograph, no matter whether 720p or 1080i.


Absence of native 720p isn't really a problem.


----------



## salty

Like they said, you'd never miss it


----------



## ertoil

after these specs....i would prefer the CRt over any Lcd/Led !


i see Plasma (a really expensive one ) more equal to this Crt


Thanks !


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ertoil* 
after these specs....i would prefer the CRt over any Lcd/Led !


i see Plasma (a really expensive one ) more equal to this Crt


Thanks !








I agree - something un-natural about the color and "tapestry" appearance on a LCD/LED, not to mention it's sweet spot for viewing. The one thing that LCD technology has going for it is the illusion of a sharper picture. The reason I mention "illusion" is that while the picture itself is sharper thanks to 100% perfect geometry the detail isn't there along with the depth and richness of the softer CRT. They still give a very nice and pleasing picture (my second set is a LCD) but it is not on the same level of CRT.


I also found LCD presents a problem with the playback of home made 480i DVD-Rs. I record a lot from HBO-HD, TCM-HD, etc via my DVR. When played back via up-conversion I am quite satisfied with the look and detail compared to the original HD source (an 8 out of 10) however these same recordings look awful on LCD with over saturated color causing the overall picture to be way too harsh (no matter what user settings I make) accompanied with choppy movement. I have to keep the player's output at 480p in order for them to play back fine. No such problem with commercial DVDs.


From what I've seen with plasma, the picture is more natural and with deeper detail thanks to better blacks. But there is still that lack of three-dimensional type depth that one gets with at least the 960. It might also be that large screen sets still have their limitations - 1080i compressed on a 34 inch screen is going to have more detail than 1080p stretched out 50 inches or more.


So if I had to replace my 960 it would definitely be with a plasma. Just hope it would do a better job playing back my extensive DVD-R collection (much cheaper than buying them) than LCD does.


----------



## micca

Does anyone know if it's possible to run Twin View (PIP) now that the analog to digital conversion is complete? As you probably know, the right side image while watching Twin View is analog-only. I assume Twin View would work again if an analog to digital converter box is used for the UHF/VHF cable input on the TV, but I don't want to purchase one unless I know that's the case. Can someone please confirm this assumption? I've searched everywhere and I can't seem to find a simple, straight answer.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *micca* /forum/post/20764872
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if it's possible to run Twin View (PIP) now that the analog to digital conversion is complete? As you probably know, the right side image while watching Twin View is analog-only. I assume Twin View would work again if an analog to digital converter box is used for the UHF/VHF cable input on the TV, but I don't want to purchase one unless I know that's the case. Can someone please confirm this assumption? I've searched everywhere and I can't seem to find a simple, straight answer.



Twin view can be used by splitting your cable wire thus allowing the non-scrambled stations to come in on the right side (which will at least be the local stations in your area). It can also still be used with older VCRs and even DVD players using one of the non-digital outputs.


Hope this helps.


----------



## micca




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/20764884
> 
> 
> Twin view can be used by splitting your cable wire thus allowing the non-scrambled stations to come in on the right side (which will at least be the local stations in your area). It can also still be used with older VCRs and even DVD players using one of the non-digital outputs.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.



Thanks for the quick reply, Joseph. I do have my cable line split, but I'm not receiving any channels whatsoever. I don't know if it has anything to do with my provider, but I'm on Verizon Fios in the Boston market. I definitely had this working before the digital conversion too. I have lines going to both the Cable and UHF/VHF inputs on the back of the TV, but neither is producing an image on the right side of Twin View. I also have a split running to my PC. That works without a problem, but my PC has a digital tuner. How would the analog-only side of Twin View be capable of processing a digital cable TV signal without a converter box? It's my understanding that the right side is simply an "analog TV". I know the TV includes a digital tuner, but isn't that available for the digital (left) side only?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *micca* /forum/post/20767800
> 
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply, Joseph. I do have my cable line split, but I'm not receiving any channels whatsoever. I don't know if it has anything to do with my provider, but I'm on Verizon Fios in the Boston market. I definitely had this working before the digital conversion too. I have lines going to both the Cable and UHF/VHF inputs on the back of the TV, but neither is producing an image on the right side of Twin View. I also have a split running to my PC. That works without a problem, but my PC has a digital tuner. How would the analog-only side of Twin View be capable of processing a digital cable TV signal without a converter box? It's my understanding that the right side is simply an "analog TV". I know the TV includes a digital tuner, but isn't that available for the digital (left) side only?



Hi Micca,


Try using the cable rather than the UHF/VHF input which is for over the air transmissions and might not congruent with cable. I know this works for my cablevision system in the Bronx, New York (BTW - don't worry, I'm not a Yankee fan - I root for the Mets







).


Or perhaps all the stations on your FIOS system are indeed scrambled which would explain why you're not getting them on the right.


Know how frustrating it is for even though our system was all digital before the turnover, there were still more stations we could watch on the right twin view.


Joe


----------



## sjitalian




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *natecag* /forum/post/20747257
> 
> 
> Hi all. I'm trying to locate the service manual for my 960. (MAN I love this TV!). I really want to do some deep digging, I want to mess with everything in the service menu. My real goal is to see if there is any way to turn the 960 into a true Multi-Sync style monitor that won't introduce lag for gaming.
> 
> 
> Please PM me if you know where I can get it.
> 
> 
> Nate



oh man i love my xbr960 as well but i don't know if i would want to dig in and mess around with the service menu options on the set.i mean if it aint broke don't fix it!i would not want to risk this little jewel(well not little)for the sake of video games or any external device.not trying to be critical or anything as i am a tinkerer as well.i wouldn't want a bypass operation if there was nothing wrong with my heart and neither would my xbr. i am sure you are competent enough to do this but since these are classic televisions i figured someone should be the voice of caution for xbrdom.good luck in this project if you proceed.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sjitalian* /forum/post/20772840
> 
> 
> oh man i love my xbr960 as well but i don't know if i would want to dig in and mess around with the service menu options on the set.i mean if it aint broke don't fix it!i would not want to risk this little jewel(well not little)for the sake of video games or any external device.not trying to be critical or anything as i am a tinkerer as well.i wouldn't want a bypass operation if there was nothing wrong with my heart and neither would my xbr. i am sure you are competent enough to do this but since these are classic televisions i figured someone should be the voice of caution for xbrdom.good luck in this project if you proceed.



Not to fear going into the service menu options if proper precautions are taken. My technical expertise goes as far as changing a light bulb but I was able to refine the settings and it did make a big difference from those done by technicians. Just follow a few simple steps.


First, write down the setting as done in the factory. This is essential so you can always return to what you originally had in case your'e not satisfied with the changes.


Then have the set tuned to video seven for HDMI for use of a HD source. Use of 1080i test patterns would be preferable - if you don't have a bluray start up disc, at least the standard pattern can be DVR'd from one of the HBO stations when off the air. Otherwise, use a good broadcast and keep the picture frozen for consistency.


Refer to the various spreadsheets compiled by owners in the sony service code link. Usually, the owners list both the suggested setting by Sony along with what they've found best for themselves. You can go by what Sony suggests, try what the owner found preferable or go somewhere down the middle. Write down every changed setting as it's done.


Although these adjustments work in uniform with each other, you don't have to work on those you don't understand. You will note that most users are in agreement with the changes for the color palettes as opposed to what Sony suggests. If nothing more, change those and leave the rest alone.


NOTE: Do not attempt at geometry unless you have a swatch pattern. Use of the standard test pattern or simple broadcast is not effective for this.


Good luck and don't be surprised if you gain more confidence after working through the menu a few times. Just be sure your original settings are written down clearly.


Hope this helps.


Joe


----------



## salty

If you approach the service menu armed with the info contained in the massive service codes thread, you have nothing to fear as far as harming the TV. For me, changing the overscan alone was worth the time and risk. It really isn't complicated and most settings are not global, and apply only to a certain video preset.


That being said, it is a great TV even if you never open the service menu.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *salty* /forum/post/20774215
> 
> 
> If you approach the service menu armed with the info contained in the massive service codes thread, you have nothing to fear as far as harming the TV. For me, changing the overscan alone was worth the time and risk. It really isn't complicated and most settings are not global, and apply only to a certain video preset.
> 
> 
> That being said, it is a great TV even if you never open the service menu.



My factory overscan settings were so way off that I couldn't understand how anyone called a professional could ever leave it in such condition. Not only did it cause information to be lost but it also distored the picture not only by stretching it more than it had to but also in the way it affected the overall geometry. So being able to adjust the overscan with a swatch pattern was of tremendous help with not only cropping the picture properly but by shrinking it the picture become much more sharper. Of course, the geometry was also off to begin with but once overscan was set, the rest became easy.


----------



## micca




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/20774659
> 
> 
> My factory overscan settings were so way off that I couldn't understand how anyone called a professional could ever leave it in such condition. Not only did it cause information to be lost but it also distored the picture not only by stretching it more than it had to but also in the way it affected the overall geometry. So being able to adjust the overscan with a swatch pattern was of tremendous help with not only cropping the picture properly but by shrinking it the picture become much more sharper. Of course, the geometry was also off to begin with but once overscan was set, the rest became easy.



I agree 100%. A large percentage of my picture was missing before I modified the overscan settings in the service menu. It really is kind of crazy that they would ship these TVs out this way. That's the only setting I touched in the service menu and it was a simple task. EVERYONE should do this because you really are missing a lot of the image! It was highly noticeable while playing my Xbox360. Some of the onscreen displays were truncated or entirely gone. I'd also see problems while watching sporting events. The info bars at the top or bottom of the screen would be cut off or too close to the edge. Another area I remember as problematic was the small, translucent image of the stations icon (if and when displayed). If any of you out there see these problems with your display, definitely read up on accessing overscan in the service menu and make the necessary adjustments.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Quote:

Originally Posted by *micca* 
I agree 100%. A large percentage of my picture was missing before I modified the overscan settings in the service menu. It really is kind of crazy that they would ship these TVs out this way. That's the only setting I touched in the service menu and it was a simple task. EVERYONE should do this because you really are missing a lot of the image! It was highly noticeable while playing my Xbox360. Some of the onscreen displays were truncated or entirely gone. I'd also see problems while watching sporting events. The info bars at the top or bottom of the screen would be cut off or too close to the edge. Another area I remember as problematic was the small, translucent image of the stations icon (if and when displayed). If any of you out there see these problems with your display, definitely read up on accessing overscan in the service menu and make the necessary adjustments.
And I bet you noticed a much shaper image as well.


Did you then have any problems with geometry? I found that unless all four sides of the picture are decreased in the same proportion the squares within the swatch pattern would be uneven. Since my set had different amounts cut off on various sides, (no matter how much I simply centered the picture) I had to go further with adjusting the geometry as well (the distortion was suddenly noticeable on DVDs I was familiar with).


----------



## Red Nightmare

the pro picture setting on my 960 seems very dim to me, could that be due to its age? i'm wondering if it would be worth getting a professional calibration.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Red Nightmare* /forum/post/20780587
> 
> 
> the pro picture setting on my 960 seems very dim to me, could that be due to its age? i'm wondering if it would be worth getting a professional calibration.



Pro is simply one of the user settings options that eliminates any of the factory-preset "bias" adjustments.


This is like "flat" in audio, leaving you to then tweak anything you want to your liking. You're not fighting to compensate to offset any pre-adjustments (e.g. high brightness and contrast) which "vivid" etc. impute. Essentially everything is in "neutral" at "zero" default settings, and then you can move things "+" or "-" to your liking.


Inevitably, if you've been using one of the other presets and you now go to "Pro", it will look dull and dim... if you're watching TV in the same broad daylight glass windows room you've been watching with one of the brighter presets (which are specifically set to LOOK BRIGHTER, especially in broad daylight). Pro is just the "neutral" starting point, ready for you to come up with your optimal viewing settings (most likely, in a dark room at night).


----------



## micca




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/20777386
> 
> 
> And I bet you noticed a much shaper image as well.
> 
> 
> Did you then have any problems with geometry? I found that unless all four sides of the picture are decreased in the same proportion the squares within the swatch pattern would be uneven. Since my set had different amounts cut off on various sides, (no matter how much I simply centered the picture) I had to go further with adjusting the geometry as well (the distortion was suddenly noticeable on DVDs I was familiar with).



Yes, I had (and still have) geometry issues. I didn't want to start messing with that stuff too much, though. I got the image to a point where it wasn't too noticeable, even though a very small portion of the picture is missing on the top/bottom and sides. The biggest overall geometry problem I see is when the picture is scrolling horizontally. You can see a couple of vertical "bumps" as the camera moves side-to-side. This isn't anywhere on the top/bottom or sides of the TV, but directly throughout the entire image on the screen. I've been dealing with it all these years and I've kind of gotten used to it, although it'd obviously be better if I could have it fixed! I've always thought about getting this thing professionally calibrated, but never pulled the trigger.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *micca* /forum/post/20789046
> 
> 
> Yes, I had (and still have) geometry issues. I didn't want to start messing with that stuff too much, though. I got the image to a point where it wasn't too noticeable, even though a very small portion of the picture is missing on the top/bottom and sides. The biggest overall geometry problem I see is when the picture is scrolling horizontally. You can see a couple of vertical "bumps" as the camera moves side-to-side. This isn't anywhere on the top/bottom or sides of the TV, but directly throughout the entire image on the screen. I've been dealing with it all these years and I've kind of gotten used to it, although it'd obviously be better if I could have it fixed! I've always thought about getting this thing professionally calibrated, but never pulled the trigger.



Micca,


That could be resolved by getting a DVD essentials or equivalent that will contain a swatch pattern (there are internal patterns within the service menu but I found the geometry ones to be very unreliable - made my picture worse, not better). There are sections in the sony service code forum that deal specifically with how to adjust the geometry step by step (look for the one with the most steps included). You can then find the codes for fine tuning the left and right corners. It's really not difficult at all and am sure you will get rid of those bumps.


If you want send me a private message and I will send those specific instructions to you.


Joe


----------



## Slinky11

I am moving and will have no place to store the TV any longer.

http://sacramento.craigslist.org/ele/2538845839.html 


If you are within 100 miles of Sacramento, I would much rather work something out with someone who will take care of it.


----------



## JA Fant

This will be a great by for someone in the Sacramento area!


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JA Fant* /forum/post/20832254
> 
> 
> This will be a great by for someone in the Sacramento area!



But not great for one's back and hernia.....


----------



## 5TANGER

I hope I'm not breaking any rules here by asking this...


I have been storing my XBR960 for the last 4 years (ever since I bought an Elite Kuro in 2007), and I think it's finally time to let someone else enjoy it. What would be a good price for this set considering it's only been used for a year and a half?


----------



## LongRufus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *5TANGER* /forum/post/20871989
> 
> 
> I hope I'm not breaking any rules here by asking this...
> 
> 
> I have been storing my XBR960 for the last 4 years (ever since I bought an Elite Kuro in 2007), and I think it's finally time to let someone else enjoy it. What would be a good price for this set considering it's only been used for a year and a half?



These are the typical prices I have seen:


$400+ - A recently professionally calibrated 960.

$300- The typical asking price on Craigslist etc

$200-$250- The actual price you will most likely get on Craigslist if you are patient.

$100-Quick sale price when you are moving or just want to get rid of it.


The size and weight of these things really puts a damper on their value. People just don't want to deal with all of trouble of moving them. To get a premium price for it, you have to get lucky and find someone local who is actively searching for one already.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Despite blotches of lost anti-glare coating coating forming on the screen over the years (and fortunately has no effect on the picture except when bright light shines directly on the screen which is rarely the case) I'm still amazed at the life-like picture the 960 provides. No other set or technology provides such a natural and life-like picture with so much detail.


----------



## Kool-aid23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/20905983
> 
> 
> Despite blotches of lost anti-glare coating coating forming on the screen over the years (and fortunately has no effect on the picture except when bright light shines directly on the screen which is rarely the case) I'm still amazed at the life-like picture the 960 provides. No other set or technology provides such a natural and life-like picture with so much detail.



Luv the picture as well! However, the loss of the anti-glare coating still bothers me greatly :-|


----------



## VSirin

Greetings all, long-time lurker on AVS, and especially this board. I'm moving in two weeks and it's time to let go of my 960. I bought it new from B&H in 2006 as the last of the sets were disappearing at retail ($1600, at the time the second most expensive thing I had ever bought!), and it has never been moved again since setup. It is cosmetically perfect, save for a small (1/4 inch or so) ding on the side of the cabinet. The screen itself is perfect (read: no GF has "cleaned" it with Windex!) and the anti-glare coating is perfect. It has slightly-off geometry (as well as a blue bloom in the lower corner of the set) typical of a 960 that hasn't been tweaked in the service menu, as I've learned reading these posts for the last 5 years. I'm a bit gun shy when it comes to such adjustments, and frankly it's been fantastic after my cursory THX eyeball calibration, but I'm sure an enthusiast will want to get in there and tweak.

Local pickup in Los Angeles (Silverlake) only. I've got it connected to Dish HD, Xbox 360, PS3, and Apple TV and will happily demo it to a serious interested AVS member. I'll put it up on Craigslist in a couple days but I thought I'd offer it to a member first since this thread sold me on the tv in the first place. You'll need two (2) strong folks and a truck/suv, obviously. I've already had one hernia so I'll pass on the heavy lifting, thankyouverymuch.









$200, cash and carry, for the best CRT ever made...

Cheers!


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kool-aid23* /forum/post/20909775
> 
> 
> Luv the picture as well! However, the loss of the anti-glare coating still bothers me greatly :-|



That drives me nuts too, even though it's only noticeable with the lamps across from it turned on.


----------



## Alfredo3001

Hi! first post in this thread! well ive been looking this tv for years, in my country i havent seen one. Until today! someone its selling it online (web like ebay). the problem is... the image the seller took of the tv looks similiar to these one but the chasis is missing some specs (see picture)


----------



## salty

Your best bet is to find out what the model number of the TV is. I think the ones that have the Super Fine Pitch tube should say so on the front of the TV. The one in the photo does not. A photo of the back would have the model number on it.


----------



## Ennui

Here is what the lower front of my 960 looks like.


To the right of the Super Fine Pitch is Dolby Digital, then SRS surround sound, then BBE (?). And the door lifts up to reveal more connections.


----------



## Alfredo3001

Thanks everyone.... i contact the seller.... it wasnt the xbr960














. The model was kv 36drc430, ive been searching and it is a hi-scan.....







.


Back to the xbr960, ive thinking buying one from USA and bring it to my country. SO if anyone is willing to sell his xbr960, i want it! the only favor i need, is that the seller take it to an office located here: 8123 northwest, 68 street , Iomeka

Miami, Florida 33166, United States, Phone: 3054779066.

i already got the info on the shipping(sea). it cost 110$ for the first 5 cubic foot (minimun fee), and every additional cubic foot 25$ more...


I really want this tv! i also contact someone from ebay, but he doesnt answer me anymore...


So make me some offers!! i can pay by: USA account bank wire (sorry for the transfer before, we call it "transferencia" here) and amazon gift card


----------



## salty

One thing to be mindful of is that large CRT monitors and televisions tend to be treated roughly by shippers. This is unfortunate because they are quite fragile.


I have gotten a few that I paid dearly for, only to find that they were mishandled in shipping and ultimately junk. Not trying to discourage you from buying-just wouldn't want you to spend a lot of money and end up with a mashed up box of pieces like I did more than once. If you do get one shipped, make sure that it is through a reputable outfit.


Just a heads up-I hope you can find one soon!


----------



## homerging

What country are you in Alfredo? If Sony sold super fine pitch models in Latin America they may have been under model names different from their North American counterparts. I know that in Europe Sony sold them without support for HD.


The North American KD models with internal digital tuners only support ATSC and not many countries use ATSC/MPEG-2. If your country doesn't then you would need an external tuner. The other problem is that CRT televisions are magnetically tuned in the factory for either the northern hemisphere, the southern, or the equatorial regions. If you use a CRT outside the zone it was designed for there might be display issues.
http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/crtfaq.htm#crtnsh 
http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/crtfaq.htm#crtnat 
http://support.apple.com/kb/TA45151?viewlocale=en_US 


You would have a tough time finding a 960 in the USA as they are very rare. There is only one on eBay at the moment.


----------



## Alfredo3001

Thanks for the answer, i am from Venezuela... so Latin America. i search ebay frequently. i already talk to the guy from ebay who is selling it for: 350$ plus stand, but he find it strange: "why would someone ship an 300lbs oversea?". what can i say? i like technology







. But it looks like 350$+400$( to take it to iomeka,shipping), 750$!!! and i have to add the international shipping....







too much!!! or maybe i misunderstood and was 400$(tv+stand+shipping to Florida)


Why????








http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/crtfaq.htm#crtnsh 
http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/crtfaq.htm#crtnat 

Why????










Thanks for the info! Someone have internationally ship CRT tv?

Maybe i should keep looking..... (over 1 year.... ) here in latin america....


----------



## homerging

Venezuela isn't an ATSC country so I doubt the 960 would have been sold there. It would probably work as you are still sort of in the Northern Hemisphere.


I can't find any evidence that SFP models were sold in S. America.


----------



## Alfredo3001

The ebay seller accept! just 400$(tv+stand+shipping to florida)!! what do you say?? risk 400$(problems with tubes electromagnetism and maybe shipping damage) for the xbr960??


----------



## salty

400 bucks(shipping included) for a 960 in great condition with the stand is not bad. There is sure to be a risk with shipping, but unless you can find one within driving distance you will have to take that risk eventually if you want that TV.


Good luck-let us know how it goes!


----------



## vader999

Hello:


Does anyone know where one might still purchase the official Sony stand for the 34xbr960? I'm moving it to my bedroom and the current (non-official) stand it sets on will remain in the family room for the newer, larger TV as part of the entertainment center.


I checked eBay but no luck.


I love this TV - have had it since 2006 and it still works perfectly - and really don't want to get rid of it; it will make a great TV for the bedroom.


Thanks in advance for any ideas.


----------



## homerging

vader999: believe it or not I found an online parts emporium some time ago that still had the stand in stock but they were still charging the original price for it. I don't remember the name of the website but you might have some luck somewhere if you can find the product name of the stand.


Alfredo3001: try to find a shipping outfit that has the mentality of a house movers. Many shippers damage things like TVs because they expect packages to be packed to protect the item inside. A house movers has or at least should have the mentality that every item is breakable and that they should protect the contents.


When you get it you'll probably need to correct overscan and red push, see the service codes thread
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=531494


----------



## Alfredo3001

Salty and Homerging, the florida shipping isnt a problem(that was the seller told me). The real problem is the international shipping!


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi Alfredo,


Happy you found a set and best of luck with having it shipped to you in Venezuela. Please be sure the seller packs it securely and safely with plenty of protection for even if the transport is handled with kid gloves, any pressure could damage the screen if there is not enough cushioning to absorb the shock. Plus be sure the screen itself is covered with some sort of cloth material that would not scratch it or chip away at the anti-glare coating if it is not a "N" model.


And it also makes me proud to know one will go through such efforts to get the TV set most of us swear by. You will love it.


Again, congratulations and please let us all know how it works out with you with the shipping. Once hooked up, we'll all be here to answer any questions you might have.


BTW - the set only has one HDMI input so if you have multiple devices to hook up, you can get a good HDMI switch box from monoprice.com - that's what I did.


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/15292869
> 
> 
> I have an optical cable going from our HD DVR directly to our Yamaha receiver with an HDMI from the DVR directly to the 960. When I retained the HDMI connection but used the 960's optical out to the receiver only two-channel surround was heard - no 5.1 signal was passed on by the Sony.
> 
> 
> I've been told the 960 does not pass along 5.1 signals. If this isn't the case was there something I did wrong? There is no analog connection between the 960 and the receiver to over-ride a dolby digital signal. Switching the DVR's audio out between HDMI and Dolby Digital had no effect.




The XBR960 does pass 5.1 dolby digital down through toslink. The problem is more than likely in the SIGNAL going in to the TV or a configuration issue with your audio equipment


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Alfredo3001* /forum/post/20986168
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone.... i contact the seller.... it wasnt the xbr960
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The model was kv 36drc430, ive been searching and it is a hi-scan.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> Back to the xbr960, ive thinking buying one from USA and bring it to my country. SO if anyone is willing to sell his xbr960, i want it! the only favor i need, is that the seller take it to an office located here: 8123 northwest, 68 street , Iomeka
> 
> Miami, Florida 33166, United States, Phone: 3054779066.
> 
> i already got the info on the shipping(sea). it cost 110$ for the first 5 cubic foot (minimun fee), and every additional cubic foot 25$ more...
> 
> 
> I really want this tv! i also contact someone from ebay, but he doesnt answer me anymore...
> 
> 
> So make me some offers!! i can pay by: USA account bank wire (sorry for the transfer before, we call it "transferencia" here) and amazon gift card




I love CRTs as much as you do but after getting a Panasonic 42 in S30 (ST30, even better), I can finally say the XBR960 has been surpassed in terms of picture quality. The 960 does not nativly resolve 1080, it final resolution is much lower.


My XBR960 just died from the infamous D-Board Failure which plagues these TVs badly. I would suggest not wasting your money on a 5 year old used TV that won't likely live much longer. For as much as you will spend, a Panasonic Plasma will do you much more justice. Cause that damn Sony timer will eventually catch up with you when you least expect it.


My Set is repairable, if you want; I will let it go extra cheap and make it worth your while. Repair costs are estimated to be under $300 if you pay someone. DIY, you can do it for around $100. Private Message and we can discuss this as a possibility.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *8086* /forum/post/21029052
> 
> 
> The XBR960 does pass 5.1 dolby digital down through toslink. The problem is more than likely in the SIGNAL going in to the TV or a configuration issue with your audio equipment



Have the audio output from our cablebox set to HDMI which passes the 5.1 signal to the Sony but the receiver only registers surround sound. Is there an audio-out setting on the 960 that I didn't notice? Many others have said they do not get 5.1 using the toslink out to their receiver, either.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/21030328
> 
> 
> Have the audio output from our cablebox set to HDMI which passes the 5.1 signal to the Sony but the receiver only registers surround sound. Is there an audio-out setting on the 960 that I didn't notice? Many others have said they do not get 5.1 using the toslink out to their receiver, either.



In my experience, since the XBR960 cannot accept DD5.1 the DVR/STB/AVR only delivers 2-channel PCM stereo to it via HDMI (since that's what the HDMI handshake says is acceptable audio format). And thus that is what then gets passed out over the optical output of the 960 to your AVR, only 2-channel PCM stereo.


NOTE: if the source device (e.g. DVR) is "forced" to send DD5.1 audio to the XBR960 (say through the "additional HDMI audio" setting of Motorola DVRs set to SOURCE), you will hear no sound. The DVR should be set to "auto" for audio-out over HDMI, in order for the 960 to specify "please send me 2-channel PCM stereo only", and they you will hear sound.


To get DD5.1 audio through the AVR, HDMI should be sent from source device through the AVR, and then HDMI for video should be used from AVR to the HDTV. Or, HDMI from source device directly to HDTV and optical for audio from source device to AVR (if HDMI relay through AVR is a problem).


Only when using the internal ATSC tuner of the XBR960 to tune OTA channels will DD5.1 audio (from the tuned channel) be sent out over optical to your AVR.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/21030383
> 
> 
> In my experience, since the XBR960 cannot accept DD5.1 the DVR/STB/AVR only delivers 2-channel PCM stereo to it via HDMI (since that's what the HDMI handshake says is acceptable audio format). And thus that is what then gets passed out over the optical output of the 960 to your AVR, only 2-channel PCM stereo.
> 
> 
> NOTE: if the source device (e.g. DVR) is "forced" to send DD5.1 audio to the XBR960 (say through the "additional HDMI audio" setting of Motorola DVRs set to SOURCE), you will hear no sound. The DVR should be set to "auto" for audio-out over HDMI, in order for the 960 to specify "please send me 2-channel PCM stereo only", and they you will hear sound.
> 
> 
> To get DD5.1 audio through the AVR, HDMI should be sent from source device through the AVR, and then HDMI for video should be used from AVR to the HDTV. Or, HDMI from source device directly to HDTV and optical for audio from source device to AVR (if HDMI relay through AVR is a problem).
> 
> 
> Only when using the internal ATSC tuner of the XBR960 to tune OTA channels will DD5.1 audio (from the tuned channel) be sent out over optical to your AVR.



Hi DSperber, has been a while.


Yes, I thought we had the question about the 960 unable to output 5.1 to an AVR receiver settled. With the DVR set to DD 5.1 no sound comes through the television speakers. Since my receiver is older and without HDMI inputs/output, to get 5.1 audio the DVR has to be set (as you pointed out) to Dolby Digital and the signal passed through a separate tolink. So when using the receiver, I have to change the audio settings of the DVR from HDMI to DD, which has nothing to do with the 960. If I don't, I just get two channel surround.


----------



## homerging









The S30 / U30 is one of the lowest end 1080p plasma televisions on the market; if it is really better than the XBR960, then by extension almost all 1080p plasma televisions are better than all HD CRTs. The resolution of the SFP CRTs is 3/4ths of Full HD - not ideal, but not bad either and far superior to the 786p flat panels.


I've seen a U30 and ST30, and the ST30 is vastly superior.


It isn't the Sony CRTs' D-board that fails per se but usually one or two of the MCZ3100D chips which is a relatively easy repair.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=928945 
http://www.racketboy.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=458437


----------



## bbbobbb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *homerging* /forum/post/21032025
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The S30 / U30 is one of the lowest end 1080p plasma televisions on the market; if it is really better than the XBR960, then by extension almost all 1080p plasma televisions are better than all HD CRTs. The resolution of the SFP CRTs is 3/4ths of Full HD - not ideal, but not bad either and far superior to the 786p flat panels.
> 
> 
> I've seen a U30 and ST30, and the ST30 is vastly superior.
> 
> 
> It isn't the Sony CRTs' D-board that fails per se but usually one or two of the MCZ3100D chips which is a relatively easy repair.
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=928945
> http://www.racketboy.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=458437



Thanks homerging for this, I am hopeful I won't need it anytime soon but it is good to know that the fix isn't ridiculously expensive.


Someday I will replace my 34XBR960, I do look at current sets every now and then. The best I have seen were the Pioneer Kuro Elites but that was a few years ago.


Panasonic plasma followers keep hoping each year that the next plasma from Panasonic will finally reach or meet the superb black levels (and not rise as time goes by...) using the Kuro tech that was bought by Panasonic from Pioneer. Maybe someday...


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/21030328
> 
> 
> Have the audio output from our cablebox set to HDMI which passes the 5.1 signal to the Sony but the receiver only registers surround sound. Is there an audio-out setting on the 960 that I didn't notice? Many others have said they do not get 5.1 using the toslink out to their receiver, either.



That's because the XBR960 handshakes as a 2 channel device; thus the cable box only sends 2 channels to the tv. If you use a cable card, then your TV will output 5.1 to your reciever. Your best bet is to use toslink or spdif coax (better) from your cable box to your receiver. Viola, 5.1.


Alternativly, in the case of my Integra DTR 7.6, I would 1st run HDMI from the cable box to the receiver, then to the TV so the receiver handshakes as a 7.1 device, and the TV is left out of the audio equation. Also, note my DTR7.6 has a option of allowing or blocking (passing) the audio from handshaking with the source device. I dont know about your equipement but you may want to look for such an option.


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *homerging* /forum/post/21032025
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The S30 / U30 is one of the lowest end 1080p plasma televisions on the market; if it is really better than the XBR960, then by extension almost all 1080p plasma televisions are better than all HD CRTs. The resolution of the SFP CRTs is 3/4ths of Full HD - not ideal, but not bad either and far superior to the 786p flat panels.
> 
> 
> I've seen a U30 and ST30, and the ST30 is vastly superior.
> 
> 
> It isn't the Sony CRTs' D-board that fails per se but usually one or two of the MCZ3100D chips which is a relatively easy repair.
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=928945
> http://www.racketboy.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=458437



My XBR960 blinks 7 times.
http://www.justanswer.com/tv-repair/...-flashing.html 


EDIT: I mis-counted, it blinks 6 times.


----------



## 8086

Even better than the XBR960 is the Sony Qualia 0015. If you can find one, then hold on to it as it's probably the finest and rarest of any CRT in the world. One or two may be in America but I suspect the majority are to be found in Japan.

http://www.sony.jp/products/Consumer...015/index.html


----------



## Joseph Dubin




8086 said:


> That's because the XBR960 handshakes as a 2 channel device; thus the cable box only sends 2 channels to the tv. If you use a cable card, then your TV will output 5.1 to your reciever. Your best bet is to use toslink or spdif coax (better) from your cable box to your receiver. Viola, 5.1.QUOTE]
> 
> 
> That's exactly what I have set-up. Just need to change DVR audio from HDMI to Dolby Digital.


----------



## 8086




Joseph Dubin said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *8086* /forum/post/21035736
> 
> 
> That's because the XBR960 handshakes as a 2 channel device; thus the cable box only sends 2 channels to the tv. If you use a cable card, then your TV will output 5.1 to your reciever. Your best bet is to use toslink or spdif coax (better) from your cable box to your receiver. Viola, 5.1.QUOTE]
> 
> 
> That's exactly what I have set-up. Just need to change DVR audio from HDMI to Dolby Digital.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With My Integra set up, i can use full HDMI to my XBR960 with 7.1 audio. I have to disallow the audio to be passed on to the TV so the Receiver handshakes with the HDMI source.
Click to expand...


----------



## 440gtx

After years of great viewing I am selling my 960. It works perfect and is in very good condition. Its time to update my electronics. Asking 300 with matching stand. Albany NY


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *440gtx* /forum/post/21053804
> 
> 
> After years of great viewing I am selling my 960. It works perfect and is in very good condition. Its time to update my electronics. Asking 300 with matching stand. Albany NY



Why update your electronics? Newer doesn't always mean better.


----------



## salty

I'm wondering if anyone has had to repair or replace the hdmi input on the back of this TV. I ask because I noticed that my hdmi port is broken inside. This really puts a stop to using the TV as a HTPC monitor.


I'd like to fix this if I could without too much disassembly, but I don't really want to get into it if it involves soldering and possibly screwing something else up. Everything else works fine.


----------



## PathofNeo

I can't believe I'm about to post this going on 2012.. but I've begun my hunt for another 34XBR960. It's amazing how many panels I've had and enjoyed only to go full circle right back to the little 34" that could.


I had many including a Samsung 46A950 locally dimmed LCD, Samsung 63C8000 plasma, Panasonic 58VT25 plasma, tried out the VT30, LG 55LX9500, Pioneer 4270HD, Pioneer 5020FD, and even tried the GOD ALMIGHTY 500m Kuro which everyone claims is the king of the tv mountain.


After all that it is my opinion that you guys with your 960's still have the best picture quality bar none. I'll admit that my last XBR960 went out due to a bad power supply (at least that's what I think it was) but today's display have too many unsorted issues that I know firsthand (and we pay alot for them too).


There's fluctuating brightness, floating blacks, rising blacks, crushing blacks, halos, blooming, clouding, flashlights, input lag, burn-in, average-poor blacks, buzzing, color problems, and I can go on and on enough to make my head spin. My have we gone backwards. I haven't seen a picture to look remotely as good as the 960 I had years ago. The emphasis now is bigger is better, 3D, frame interpolation, and gizmos and gadgets. I could give a flying **** if my tv has youtube, pandora, skype, or some child alarm indicator on it. I think these companies have put so much **** in it that they forgot what their selling... a television.


Call me crazy but I've just about lost all desire for another flat panel. OLED could be compelling, but I won't have my hopes up until I see it. About the Kuros.. yeah there nice but for as much as you spend I would expect nothing short of pure blacks in a dark room. They can't compare to a 960. They just can't. Not only this but the 960 has a more natural picture with depth to it. It's amazing to hear so many say they wouldn't pay more than $200 for something that runs circles around anything on the market today. Almost dumbfounding.


I pulled my 34XBR960 that was in my closet for years to see what it could do. I didn't realize that I had a different model than my first one, because I could tell right away something was different. The picture looks a little duller on this one than my first. Dark, dull, and not as sharp. The first one I have was extremely crisp, bright (accurate not overdone), as well as having deep blacks. The one I had before was the "N" model. It didn't have a coating on it and I swear everything about it was sharper with more punch. Now I don't mind a dark picture because I'm used to using D-Nice's settings and I like accuracy since I do all my viewing in a pitch black room. But even then this one's lacking. I really wish I had my old one back.


Sooo now I hunt for a 34XBR960N and hope I can find a good one that's well kept. If someone knows of one, or that has one for sell in North Carolina, by all means let me know. I'd pay more than your neighbor would lol.


----------



## PathofNeo

I forgot to mention but I noticed something else with my 960 that I didn't catch before. It has floating blacks. I notice the black bars on the top and bottom tend to light up with bright objects on screen. This is the exact issue I had with my Panasonic VT25. Take an all black image and put a white dot in the middle and all of a sudden the bars glow a little. It's kinda distracing. My Kuro never did this. From what I remember my 34XBR960N never did this either. It had stable blacks that stayed black. So I ask is this just because my tv has alot of age and usage (I bought it used) or did they really have this problem that I never knew since I got used to the Kuro?


Also I'd like to hear honest opinions about the 34XBR970. I never considered this when they were new since obviously it's lacking the super fine pitch. But I remember someone saying they were in fact brighter than the 960's and almost as sharp (or sharper) depending on content displayed. I watch a good mixture of SD and HD. I found one in my area with a purchase date of 12/2009 which is a miracle really. So assuming it's works like it should.. what's it lacking compared to the 960? What's the real world difference in picture quality? I can't imagine the 960 being much sharper due to the size.. but do I know? I keep mentioning sharp because that's what I'm most attracted to the 960, along with black hole blacks. My first 960 had a natural sharpness to it that I haven't seen replicated (other than pc crt monitors). LCDs tend to be overly sharp and plasma seems to be soft. CRT (at least the 960) has the right amount of sharpness. If the 970 lacks that razor sharpness of the 960 then I'd think twice. Will use it for DVDs, Blu-rays, and Xbox 360 and I don't want to take a hit with sharpness since I like gaming up close.


Thanks in advance for you feedback.


----------



## Ennui




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PathofNeo* /forum/post/21098243
> 
> 
> I can't believe I'm about to post this going on 2012.. but I've begun my hunt for another 34XBR960. It's amazing how many panels I've had and enjoyed only to go full circle right back to the little 34" that could.
> 
> 
> I had many including a Samsung 46A950 locally dimmed LCD, Samsung 63C8000 plasma, Panasonic 58VT25 plasma, tried out the VT30, LG 55LX9500, Pioneer 4270HD, Pioneer 5020FD, and even tried the GOD ALMIGHTY 500m Kuro which everyone claims is the king of the tv mountain.
> 
> 
> After all that it is my opinion that you guys with your 960's still have the best picture quality bar none. I'll admit that my last XBR960 went out due to a bad power supply (at least that's what I think it was) but today's display have too many unsorted issues that I know firsthand (and we pay alot for them too).
> 
> 
> There's fluctuating brightness, floating blacks, rising blacks, crushing blacks, halos, blooming, clouding, flashlights, input lag, burn-in, average-poor blacks, buzzing, color problems, and I can go on and on enough to make my head spin. My have we gone backwards. I haven't seen a picture to look remotely as good as the 960 I had years ago. The emphasis now is bigger is better, 3D, frame interpolation, and gizmos and gadgets. I could give a flying **** if my tv has youtube, pandora, skype, or some child alarm indicator on it. I think these companies have put so much **** in it that they forgot what their selling... a television.
> 
> 
> Call me crazy but I've just about lost all desire for another flat panel. OLED could be compelling, but I won't have my hopes up until I see it. About the Kuros.. yeah there nice but for as much as you spend I would expect nothing short of pure blacks in a dark room. They can't compare to a 960. They just can't. Not only this but the 960 has a more natural picture with depth to it. It's amazing to hear so many say they wouldn't pay more than $200 for something that runs circles around anything on the market today. Almost dumbfounding.
> 
> 
> I pulled my 34XBR960 that was in my closet for years to see what it could do. I didn't realize that I had a different model than my first one, because I could tell right away something was different. The picture looks a little duller on this one than my first. Dark, dull, and not as sharp. The first one I have was extremely crisp, bright (accurate not overdone), as well as having deep blacks. The one I had before was the "N" model. It didn't have a coating on it and I swear everything about it was sharper with more punch. Now I don't mind a dark picture because I'm used to using D-Nice's settings and I like accuracy since I do all my viewing in a pitch black room. But even then this one's lacking. I really wish I had my old one back.
> 
> 
> Sooo now I hunt for a 34XBR960N and hope I can find a good one that's well kept. If someone knows of one, or that has one for sell in North Carolina, by all means let me know. I'd pay more than your neighbor would lol.



Have you looked at an XBR8? I am very happy with mine. (Still have a 960 and two other HD LCD TV's.)


----------



## PathofNeo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ennui* /forum/post/21099931
> 
> 
> Have you looked at an XBR8? I am very happy with mine. (Still have a 960 and two other HD LCD TV's.)



This is probably the only LCD I would consider. I had the 46A950 and it was superb. I've only seen the XBR8 a couple years ago at Magnolia and it did look very good. If wasn't for the price I would have picked it up.


I'm still mainly interested in a Sony tube and would like to know if all the XBRs suffered from floating blacks or was it just my aging set?


----------



## JohnX777




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PathofNeo* /forum/post/21098243
> 
> 
> I can't believe I'm about to post this going on 2012.. but I've begun my hunt for another 34XBR960. It's amazing how many panels I've had and enjoyed only to go full circle right back to the little 34" that could.
> 
> 
> I had many including a Samsung 46A950 locally dimmed LCD, Samsung 63C8000 plasma, Panasonic 58VT25 plasma, tried out the VT30, LG 55LX9500, Pioneer 4270HD, Pioneer 5020FD, and even tried the GOD ALMIGHTY 500m Kuro which everyone claims is the king of the tv mountain.
> 
> 
> After all that it is my opinion that you guys with your 960's still have the best picture quality bar none. I'll admit that my last XBR960 went out due to a bad power supply (at least that's what I think it was) but today's display have too many unsorted issues that I know firsthand (and we pay alot for them too).
> 
> 
> There's fluctuating brightness, floating blacks, rising blacks, crushing blacks, halos, blooming, clouding, flashlights, input lag, burn-in, average-poor blacks, buzzing, color problems, and I can go on and on enough to make my head spin. My have we gone backwards. I haven't seen a picture to look remotely as good as the 960 I had years ago. The emphasis now is bigger is better, 3D, frame interpolation, and gizmos and gadgets. I could give a flying **** if my tv has youtube, pandora, skype, or some child alarm indicator on it. I think these companies have put so much **** in it that they forgot what their selling... a television.
> 
> 
> Call me crazy but I've just about lost all desire for another flat panel. OLED could be compelling, but I won't have my hopes up until I see it. About the Kuros.. yeah there nice but for as much as you spend I would expect nothing short of pure blacks in a dark room. They can't compare to a 960. They just can't. Not only this but the 960 has a more natural picture with depth to it. It's amazing to hear so many say they wouldn't pay more than $200 for something that runs circles around anything on the market today. Almost dumbfounding.
> 
> 
> I pulled my 34XBR960 that was in my closet for years to see what it could do. I didn't realize that I had a different model than my first one, because I could tell right away something was different. The picture looks a little duller on this one than my first. Dark, dull, and not as sharp. The first one I have was extremely crisp, bright (accurate not overdone), as well as having deep blacks. The one I had before was the "N" model. It didn't have a coating on it and I swear everything about it was sharper with more punch. Now I don't mind a dark picture because I'm used to using D-Nice's settings and I like accuracy since I do all my viewing in a pitch black room. But even then this one's lacking. I really wish I had my old one back.
> 
> 
> Sooo now I hunt for a 34XBR960N and hope I can find a good one that's well kept. If someone knows of one, or that has one for sell in North Carolina, by all means let me know. I'd pay more than your neighbor would lol.


*I agree with you. all these modern sets are quite flawed........but not even good old CRT is without it's flaws. the puny screens alone are a major flawed it-self, but I find it sad that the blacks on my VT25 TV are not as good as my HD-CRT, and I swear I still see motion blur on plasma and I still see Phosphor lag.


I just bought the VT25 and I'm disappointed in it, I'm sure the VT30 is only a small improvement over that, then again I'm not impressed easily as it is, but I'm still disappointed I dropped X amount on this Plasma to just be disappointed and I'm stuck with it.......Sign.


John.*


----------



## JA Fant

IME, one will not find a better CRT than the 960/960N.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Path,


You are not crazy at all. We will never part with our 960 for a larger screen whether it be Plasma, LCD or DLP - even with the blotches caused by the anti-glare coating that has come off over the year (fortunately not seen when the lights behind us are off). The picture is still too vivid and lifelike to give up.


I believe the consumer does not realize they have given up something in picture quality in exchange for bigger screens, slimmer cabinets or both. For most, it was not even out of choice since the industry rapidly phased out CRT during the HD boom. Also, too many were comparing their old analog standard definition CRTs to high definition flat screens unaware they were not making a comparison between technologies but rather one between lower and higher resolution. I doubt most even realized high definition could be housed on tube sets and thought HD was exclusive to flat screen technology.


Yes, large size is great and the pictures on those new sets (actually, there is nothing new anymore about Plasma, LCD or DLP) are indeed nice, but they still don't compare to that of a good CRT. That kind of puts all of us at a disadvantage when the need for a new set arrives for we know we are going down a step. For all those others, ignorance is indeed bliss.


----------



## DrRadio

I'm looking to sell my 34XBR960N. I'm located near Seattle if anyone wants to contact me directly and arrange a pick-up. I love the TV, it's in beautiful condition, original remote. We're moving and since they price the move per/pound, I can't justify taking it with us.


----------



## RWetmore




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PathofNeo* /forum/post/21098243
> 
> 
> I pulled my 34XBR960 that was in my closet for years to see what it could do. I didn't realize that I had a different model than my first one, because I could tell right away something was different. The picture looks a little duller on this one than my first. Dark, dull, and not as sharp. The first one I have was extremely crisp, bright (accurate not overdone), as well as having deep blacks. The one I had before was the "N" model. It didn't have a coating on it and I swear everything about it was sharper with more punch. Now I don't mind a dark picture because I'm used to using D-Nice's settings and I like accuracy since I do all my viewing in a pitch black room. But even then this one's lacking. I really wish I had my old one back.
> 
> 
> Sooo now I hunt for a 34XBR960N and hope I can find a good one that's well kept. If someone knows of one, or that has one for sell in North Carolina, by all means let me know. I'd pay more than your neighbor would lol.



You can remove the screen coating but it's a ***** of job. I know exactly what you're talking about, as I removed mine and it made a huge difference (brighter, sharper picture with more depth, etc.).


The coating is not really a coating but a big plastic sheet glued to the screen.


----------



## RWetmore

Also FYI, the 34XS955 has the exact same picture tube (Super Fine Pitch) as the XBR 960 without the screen coating. It seems many don't know this or think the 960 is better but it isn't (at least the picture quality).


----------



## PeterTHX




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/21147800
> 
> 
> Also FYI, the 34XS955 has the exact same picture tube (Super Fine Pitch) as the XBR 960 without the screen coating. It seems many don't know this or think the 960 is better but it isn't (at least the picture quality).



There were 2 SFP tubes, the XBR960 and the 910. The 960's tube was a clear improvement, and the 955 uses the 910's tube.


I have both the 910 and the 960 (one upstairs one downstairs, imagine hauling it upstairs...) and the 960 is still the best tube TV ever built and side by side beats the 910.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RWetmore* /forum/post/21147794
> 
> 
> You can remove the screen coating but it's a ***** of job. I know exactly what you're talking about, as I removed mine and it made a huge difference (brighter, sharper picture with more depth, etc.).
> 
> 
> The coating is not really a coating but a big plastic sheet glued to the screen.



Hi,


Please advise me how you removed that coating since my screen has blotches that although are not seen with the lights low are upsetting never the less. But I also notice in the small areas when lights are shining on the screen the picture on small areas where the coating has rubbed off appears awfully bright compared to the surrounding area. Is that just an illusion or were both user and service adjustments then needed to be made?


Also, I can one ruin the screen if the job is not done properly or is it a matter of just not giving up once begun?


----------



## rsinclair

I did post a separate topic of this for those who won't follow this enormous thread, but hopefully you guys won't mind if I note this here for anyone interested:


I'm selling my ISF-calibrated 34XBR960 in great condition and perfect working order in the San Francisco Bay Area. Currently selling as part of a home theater package, but would be willing to sell the TV separately to someone on AVS Forum who might have a greater appreciation for the stunning PQ of this display.


Here's the ad, but contact me if you're interested in just the TV. Local pickup only, of course, I'm not shipping this thing









http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/ele/2703677001.html 


-Robert


----------



## kangphin

"The coating removal solution was, believe it or not, Steel Wool Grade #0000. This stuff worked like a charm and did not leave a single scratch. I can now fully enjoy one of the finest TVs ever made in the Super-Fine Pitch 34XBR960 once again."


This quote is taken from this very forum.


I took this advice and tried the steel wool out on my super fine pitch tube. It worked like a charm.


----------



## Kool-aid23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kangphin* /forum/post/21217838
> 
> 
> "The coating removal solution was, believe it or not, Steel Wool Grade #0000. This stuff worked like a charm and did not leave a single scratch. I can now fully enjoy one of the finest TVs ever made in the Super-Fine Pitch 34XBR960 once again."
> 
> 
> This quote is taken from this very forum.
> 
> 
> I took this advice and tried the steel wool out on my super fine pitch tube. It worked like a charm.



If you wouldn't mind, please post some pictures of your tv. I took this advice and tried it on my crt cpu monitor and scratched it pretty bad. I've been scared to attempt to try it on my set.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kool-aid23* /forum/post/21222289
> 
> 
> If you wouldn't mind, please post some pictures of your tv. I took this advice and tried it on my crt cpu monitor and scratched it pretty bad. I've been scared to attempt to try it on my set.



I would be scared to attempt it myself. Was it just simply using the soap pad or should the screen first be washed down with warm water or be prepared in another way before use? Actually, any advice on what could have caused the blotches to begin with so we can actually repeat our "mistakes"?










At first I suspected it was caused by using "Glass Plus" and/or an abrasive type rag, however more blotches appeared even with a soft cotton rag and cold water. Maybe after ten more years all the blotches would be gone by default.


----------



## PathofNeo

I would also like to know if there is any way besides steel wool to remove the anti-glare coating. I'm not brave enough to do that.. unless I have to. There has to be some other trick.


----------



## PathofNeo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/20620546
> 
> 
> I have the non-N model and it was produced in May, 2005. You can find the manufacturing date on the back by the serial numbers. The only difference between the two models is that the N models have the anti-glare coating inside the tube instead on the front - the problem with that is that the coating could come off a bit in areas just from ordinary cleaning. Actually doesn't cause any picture distortion and is not noticable with the lights low.



So are you telling me that the N models still have an anti-glare coating? Call me crazy but I didn't know they had it inside or out of the tube. If this is true.. then I would assume a 34XBR960 with the coating removed should have a punchier picture than an N model (since it has some form of coating).


This doesn't make sense... help me out. I have the non-N model and am debating now to sell it and find an N model (eventually) or to remove the coating myself.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PathofNeo* /forum/post/21277290
> 
> 
> So are you telling me that the N models still have an anti-glare coating? Call me crazy but I didn't know they had it inside or out of the tube. If this is true.. then I would assume a 34XBR960 with the coating removed should have a punchier picture than an N model (since it has some form of coating).
> 
> 
> This doesn't make sense... help me out. I have the non-N model and am debating now to sell it and find an N model (eventually) or to remove the coating myself.



I would stick with the N model, not only because the coating coming off is something you would not have to worry about but also because I don't know how vital the anti-glare coating is regarding the deep black level and high range of contrast which helps create it's magnificent picture. Some who removed it noted they found the picture a slightly bit brighter and I don't know if the increased brightness can be compensated via re-calibration.


Which does create a dilemma for us with blotches. Would we be better off keeping the coating on than having no anti-glare coating at all? It's not that can't we can't compensate for the blotches by simply keeping the lamps opposite the set off which then eliminates all notice of them since there is no glare to deal with. Those blotches are only somewhat noticeable with the room full of bright sunlight (which we don't like anyway) -- in fact, it only looks real bad when the set is off and though that bugs me the most, it's really the least important thing to be concerned with.


----------



## PathofNeo

Well here's the thing Joseph...


The 34XBR960 I found on Craigslist is literally 5 miles from my house. I went to look at last night and he had removed the anti-glare coating! I didn't know this until he told me. He said as they were cleaning it over time the coating started to peel so he decided to go ahead and take it off.


He used steel wool to do so and it looks like it all came off which is impressive. However I can see a small blotch (if that's what you call it) in the bottom corner. It looks like black residue. It's in 2 corners and doesn't seem to effect PQ (I think it wasn't even in the picture zone). The only downside was slight scratches. I didn't even notice them until he pointed them out. He was honest so he got the flashlight and showed me some faint scratches. I don't know if this effects viewing or not but I didn't seem to notice? They were tiny, faint scratches up to 8 inches. You had to get within a couple ft. to see them.


I've always wanted to take the stupid coating off my tv because I FREAKIN' LOVE the added contrast. The N model is like night and day to mine now. As a bonus he told me he would help me deliver to my house, and even onto my stand. That's a huge one for me... all for $100.


I'm thinking I should jump on this and at the very least I would have a backup XBR960. What do you think?


----------



## pca7ggr

I have decided to turn to the dark side.


Selling our 34xbr960 with its "jan-u-wine" Sony TV stand, remote/manual and replacing it with, sinner repent!, a Panasonic 55 plasma.


So, if you are (or know someone) in the San Francisco Bay Area (I'm in Dublin) who wants (needs) this set up, please contact me.


As an added bonus, I have a utility trailer and can help transport this 200lb wonder. But plan on bringing help because my bad back prevents me from doing heavy lifting. Thanks


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PathofNeo* /forum/post/21283805
> 
> 
> Well here's the thing Joseph...
> 
> 
> The 34XBR960 I found on Craigslist is literally 5 miles from my house. I went to look at last night and he had removed the anti-glare coating! I didn't know this until he told me. He said as they were cleaning it over time the coating started to peel so he decided to go ahead and take it off.
> 
> 
> He used steel wool to do so and it looks like it all came off which is impressive. However I can see a small blotch (if that's what you call it) in the bottom corner. It looks like black residue. It's in 2 corners and doesn't seem to effect PQ (I think it wasn't even in the picture zone). The only downside was slight scratches. I didn't even notice them until he pointed them out. He was honest so he got the flashlight and showed me some faint scratches. I don't know if this effects viewing or not but I didn't seem to notice? They were tiny, faint scratches up to 8 inches. You had to get within a couple ft. to see them.
> 
> 
> I've always wanted to take the stupid coating off my tv because I FREAKIN' LOVE the added contrast. The N model is like night and day to mine now. As a bonus he told me he would help me deliver to my house, and even onto my stand. That's a huge one for me... all for $100.
> 
> 
> I'm thinking I should jump on this and at the very least I would have a backup XBR960. What do you think?



I don't know if picture quality is better without the coating or that it just appears more vivid and/or brighter but not really natural (don't forget that many are impressed when there is too much color, brightness, etc. when in reality it is really artificial). If the scratches don't bother you, then that's not an issue.


If it's a matter of picture quality, I have no idea. Sorry I could not give you more advice but if it was up to me, I wish I had the N model since anti-glare coating is still anti-glare coating, no matter where it's placed - and I would then have avoided those blotches which one can only see with the set off or in a brightly lit environment.


Good luck with your decision - if you got a place for a second unit then the $100 is not a bad investment and you can decide which you prefer in your main home theater system.


----------



## PeterTHX

*Anyone else have this issue?*


I ended up giving my 34XBR960 to my folks. A month or so ago the set stopped powering on and the red light was blinking. A few weeks passed and the set actually turned on again but there was a problem: apparently the L/R speaker amplifier blew and only the subwoofer is operating...there is no sound otherwise from the speakers. Is there an easy fix or is it an expensive technician-only job? For now it's linked to a small stereo via analog output. I had to downgrade the BD player from HDMI to component to get sound to the stereo.


----------



## PathofNeo

Well I picked it up! Now I have two 34XBR960s and can say with confidence this one is better than the one I've been using. He really did a good job removing the coating. The reason it has minor scratches is because he said the coating was baked on.. opposed to a film. He somehow managed to take it off with steel wool and hours later. Kinda scary, but really only a few minor scratches that can't be seen past 2-3 ft.


It's night and day from my old set. The contrast is better, and the sharpness is rediculous. I can only describe it as taking off a pair of dark sunglasses. I can see clearly now. So to say I'm tickled pink is an understatement. Oh and I totally agree with you Joseph when you talk about artificial brightness and sharpness attracting consumers. I'm not one of them! I just happen to think the anti-glare coating on the XBR960 was a mistake and too aggressive. I have about 60-70% improvement in PQ with my new set.


However.. I'd like to hear what you guys are using for your picture settings. I'll be using it for everything.. Xbox 360, PS3, Blu-ray, DVD, and less-than-480p (512x384) stuff. My current settings are:


Mode - Pro

Pic - 31

Bri - 31

Color - 31

Hue - 0

Sharp - Min ???

Col Temp - Warm

ClearVM - Low-High ???

Axis - Monitor


This is pretty much the default settings in Pro mode. The only thing I did was back down the sharpness, set Color Temp to Warm, and Color Axis to Monitor. I like the colors but it seems a little dark. In fact I know it's dark because everyone has pitch black hair, no detail. How far do you guys suggest I crank up the Picture/Brightness? Is there service menu tweaks to increase brightness, or improve the picture? Also what do you keep your Sharpness at? I wish I could remember what I did with my original XBR but I can't. I remember going into the service menu and adjusting something that made everything SHARPER and overall solid. Maybe you guys know the ultimate tweak. I know there's a forum dedicated to service menu tweaks but it would be nice to hear what ppl have done here.


Finally (sorry for so many question)... What resolution should I set my players n' consoles at? My Dune Player has all resolutions and if I'm not mistaken this tv outputs 1080i regardless yes? So does this mean I need to set my Dune to 1080i and forget it? Or do I need to set it according to the source currently playing? Like DVDs need 480p, Blu-ray 1080i, 720p shows at 720p or 1080i? 512x384 SD shows at 480i or 480p? Xbox 360 set to 720p or 1080i? The games I play on 360 are mostly 720p (1280x720) so I figure if I set the 360 to 720p it's a match for my games and the tv will upscale. Is this better or should I change the settings in Xbox to 1080i? I assume same with PS3.


Wow all these questions. But really you guys (esp Joseph) have been helpful. I think I'd be lost without you guys. Help!




Thanks guys!!


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi Path,


Glad you're happy with your second set. Since each set is different I suggest simply getting a bluray set-up disc to get the picture settings correct. I do notice your contrast and brightness settings are the same and usually the brightness is lower.


----------



## PathofNeo

I was reading through the thread and found something interesting concerning older video game consoles (NES, SNES) and this tv. Someone mentioned to find an entry in the service menu called "TRAP" and change the value to 1. Supposedly it makes the 240i games look better.


I'm curious does anyone know what this means and how it works? I'd love to use my XBR960 for older consoles but as you know this is an HDTV so it's not preferred. I'd like to know what this trick does before I pick up a 32" Sony 480i CRT. Even still.. would the XBR960 compare to something like a 32FS130 for old consoles? I'm thinking not, but what you think? I'd like to know because my neighbor has a 32FS130 (already checked) in perfect condition she would give me. But obviously if there was a way to make older games look better on what I have then I wouldn't need it.


----------



## rsinclair

FYI, I've separated my KD-34XBR960 from the home theater package I was selling it with on craigslist, and am now offering the set on its own for $450 to local buyers in the Bay Area. Set is in perfect condition, works great, comes with original accessories, and has been ISF-calibrated.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/ele/2769630664.html 


Buyers local to SF only, no shipping.


----------



## hemogoblin

Uh oh. I fixed my 7 led blinking / IC problem about a year ago, and now the 960 is not powering up. The standby led flashes 20 times like its trying to start, but nothing ever comes up on the screen. Crap, I had plans to keep the 960 and buy a projector to project above the 960 and hopefully have the best of both worlds. If the 960 stays off, looks like ill be tossing her and just getting a LCD.


----------



## Freeze Time




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsinclair* /forum/post/21399861
> 
> 
> FYI, I've separated my KD-34XBR960 from the home theater package I was selling it with on craigslist, and am now offering the set on its own for $450 to local buyers in the Bay Area. Set is in perfect condition, works great, comes with original accessories, and has been ISF-calibrated.
> 
> http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/ele/2769630664.html
> 
> 
> Buyers local to SF only, no shipping.



That same set sold for $100 by me a month ago

http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/ele/2727491746.html 


They refuse to take the post down but I emailed them and the TV is sold.


I am currently buying the XBR970 for $50. Just waiting to borrow a truck to go pick it up. I don't see anyone in their right mind paying $450 for your TV or anything close to it.


----------



## HDTimeShifter

I have a Sony 34XBR800 and my old non-HD DVD player recently broke, so I picked up a Toshiba BDX2150 Blu-ray player. However, the picture is pastel colored and the graphics all fuzzy. Is the xbr800 (1080i) incompatible with a 1080p blu-ray player? I have everything running through my Denon AVR-1910 receiver via HDMI now (except the HDMI to DVI for the TV connection). I think I had this same problem briefly with the old DVD player via component cables when one of the was loose, but I checked all my HDMI connections and they are secure. Does anyone have any idea what is wrong, or is the TV just incompatible with 1080p? I would think the Denon would downscale to 1080i. I tried various settings from Auto to 1080i and 1080p on my Denon input. I tried playing both a Blu-ray and a regular DVD with the same results. I also plugged the Blu-ray player into my LAN via ethernet cable to make sure it upgraded the BIOS as necessary. My Motorola Comcast DVR works fine with it by setting the DVR to 1080i in the menu.


----------



## neccrttv

The XBR800 (and all sony crt's) is not compatible with 1080p. Be sure to also set-up the blu-ray to output 1080i in HDMI before sending it to your Denon. Also try connecting directly the blu-ray to your TV. HDMI rarely has problems with color so its most likely either a bad set-up in your blu-ray or the denon doesnt downconvert correctly to 1080i for your TV.


----------



## HDTimeShifter

I also set up the Blu-ray to output 1080i in HDMI. I'll try connecting it directly to my TV.


The Denon has a scaler that down converts to 1080i, 720p, 480p, and 480i resolutions. I tried setting the HDMI port that my DVD was hooked up to for scalar off, auto-scale, and 1080p.


When I was messing with it this morning after sunrise so I could clearly check and see that the connections behind the components were tight, the DVD player displayed what looked like a "No media present" message whether I put in a Blu-ray or regular DVD, then wouldn't shut off. Hopefully it was updating the PROM - I left it on and will see if it shuts off (without having to unplug it) when I get home tonight.


----------



## DSperber

The XBR800 has no HDMI input. It only has DVI input, along with component video input. So how do you actually have your Denon connected to the XBR800? Component video, or DVI? You'd probably have to have an HDMI-to-DVI cable if you're going out of the Denon from one of its HDMI ports?


I assume from your discussion that you have the BluRay player connected to the Denon via HDMI.


Yes, the Sony HD CRTs do NOT support 1080p. You MUST set the BluRay player to output 1080i. I'm not sure if "auto" would detect that the display can't accept 1080p, although the intermediate Denon AVR can... but you might as well just set the BluRay player to 1080i and be done with it.


The "pastel" coloring is generally an issue with the green component video connector, but don't know.


I myself went with a component video connection to my cousin's XBR800 after I tried the DVI connection (from his SA8300 DVR) and the colors were also very off. This "1st-generation" HDTV from Sony may just have had a crummy DVI design.


You're not going to get 1080p anyway, and you want to be able to watch 1080i BluRays and other content. Just use component video to the XBR800 from the Denon.


Also I'd suggest trying component video from BluRay to Denon, to keep it all analog and let the player create those signals. That way the Denon has to do nothing but pass it along, and you don't have any issues with HDMI-to-component conversions.


For sure I'd try avoiding the DVI input on the XBR800 and see if that helps.


----------



## HDTimeShifter

DVI to TV as I mentioned previously.


Unfortunately, there is no component output on the Blu-ray, just HDMI. I really hate how most new Blu-ray players are HDMI only as they won't be usable with older TVs and at nearly $50 these days, there is no reason to buy a non-Blu-ray player.


The only glitch with the DVI loop is that it causes my DVR to revert to unwatchable DVI mode and I have to go through a long PITA process to reset it to HDMI every time I turn the TV back on even though it is going to my receiver before the TV. This is actually a bug with the Denon, but being grey market purchase, could not get warrantied for PROM reprogram. Otherwise the HDMI to DVI works fine.


Yes, I noticed the green component cable coming loose used to cause discoloration with my old DVD player since the green and blue outputs were switched around, forcing me to mangle the (3 or 5 attached) cables just before the attachment points.


If I can't get the issue resolved before the 24th, I'll return the player. Fortunately I bought it at Best Buy and not online. Unfortunately, the main competitor, a Panny, doesn't have digital sound outputs. I listen to CDs quite a bit and hate having to turn on the TV just to listen to audio. Another gripe is with DVD players that don't have track/time displays on them - I hate having to turn on my TV in my office bedroom just to see what track it's on.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTimeShifter* /forum/post/21440921
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, there is no component output on the Blu-ray, just HDMI. I really hate how most new Blu-ray players are HDMI only as they won't be usable with older TVs and at nearly $50 these days, there is no reason to buy a non-Blu-ray player.



I understand the attraction of a $50 "commodity" (like a cheap toaster or coffee maker), but sometimes "you get what you pay for".


For a variety of reasons I decided to go with what I feel to be the best valued (but not dirt-cheap) all-around best "universal player", in the Oppo. My model was their first, BDP-83, but they've got a range of products now... including more expensive versions. You could certainly find one used probably in the $350 range.


But if you want to future-proof yourself, and invest in something now that will work for you in the future (e.g. if you ever go with a new HDTV, say possibly in the 3D-world), Oppo's got it all. Current BDP-93 is $500. Component and HDMI, optical/coax, audio out over HDMI, etc.


Here's PC Mag's list of the 10 top-rated players , from cheap to high-end.



Anyway, if you want to use your XBR800 for BluRay, I'd honestly suggest trying component video and not DVI.


----------



## HDTimeShifter

The Blu-ray player had turned itself off by the time I got home last night. I turned it back on after turning on the receiver and TV and after a few minutes it froze on the initial screen of a non-Blu-ray DVD. Neither the remote control buttons nor the player front panel buttons worked - I couldn't even turn it off! After a long time, I unplugged and replugged in the power cord and it worked ok after that. I can't understand it freezing up like that as it shouldn't have been trying to retrieve BD Live data or anything. I discovered a "Deep Color" setting (that wasn't available in the Quick Setup Settings menu, but the regular settings menu), and this solved the pastel/hazy display problem. Apparently the xbr800 isn't capable of handling "deep color". After that, the regular DVD as well as a Blu-ray DVD played fine. It works with the video setting on either "HDMI Auto" or "1080i", but I chose to leave it on 1080i since I don't know if the auto setting is down converting lower than 1080i. I also turned off my receiver's HDMI scaler to minimize the amount of processing, but may do some experimenting later to see if it's scaler is higher quality than the DVD player's. Surprisingly enough, the Blu-ray movie was not that much more astounding than the upscaled regular DVD - I suppose the Sony's line doubling and player upscaling of 480p minimize the difference between that and 1080i. I did notice the blacks weren't quite as black and slight fuzziness on the regular DVD concert.


I will report back if the player freezes up again, but might just turn off the "always allow network access" setting since I have no USB stick connected to download any BD Live content and only currently have 1 Blu-ray DVD.


DSperber, thanks for the PC Mag reviews. In my haste to replace my old broken DVD player, prior to purchase, the only recent reviews I could find were Consumer Reports which had minimal content. I think this basic budget player will do for now as I rarely have time to watch an entire DVD in one sitting. I have no need for WiFi, don't need to watch online content (and don't see a need to outside of a PC), and don't care to have to wear another set of glasses for 3D.


----------



## LiquidSnake

"Deep colour" describes a colour gamut that is a billion colours or greater. This presents two issues, circuitry in these old televisions probably do not explicitly support this kind of a signal, and additionally it is problematic as being a CRT, its analogue output does not have any technical limitation on the infinite waveforms that can describe the colours it can possibly be made to reproduce.


So to my understanding you really should not need deep colour at all for these kinds of CRT sets.


----------



## HDTimeShifter

Last night I played a CD and then turned off the TV, still had audio, then unplugged the digital audio coax cable and still had audio, so I suppose audio-only works through HDMI and digital audio outputs are not necessary even with DVI as part of, although outside the loop (a digital or analog audio connection direct to my receiver [instead of looping back via the TV audio in/outs] on my bedroom system was necessary to hear CD audio with the TV off with component and coax connections).


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTimeShifter* /forum/post/21451273
> 
> 
> Last night I played a CD and then turned off the TV, still had audio, then unplugged the digital audio coax cable and still had audio, so I suppose audio-only works through HDMI and digital audio outputs are not necessary even with DVI as part of, although outside the loop (a digital or analog audio connection direct to my receiver [instead of looping back via the TV audio in/outs] on my bedroom system was necessary to hear CD audio with the TV off with component and coax connections).



The TV has nothing to do with sound coming from your AVR receiver, if you have your player connected to your AVR. The sound is coming from the speakers/sound system which is connected to the AVR and presents whatever audio is feeding the AVR, and has nothing to do with what video you see on the TV. The TV is strictly for displaying video sent to it by the AVR from whatever video source(s) signals feeds the AVR. You could totally disconnect the video cable from AVR to HDTV and still have sound. (To use an old analogy, it's just like how you could turn off the TV and still record a program on a VCR placed between the wall antenna/coax and the TV.)


There is no audio delivered over a DVI cable (going from AVR to the HDTV). Unlike an HDMI cable a DVI cable it is strictly for video. If you wanted to hear sound from your HDTV speakers you'd need to add a secondary audio cable from AVR to the HDTV, either an optical digital one (if the XBR800 supported digital audio input which I don't believe it does) or at least an analog L/R-stereo red/white audio cable. This 2-channel analog cable would actually be fine, since the XBR800 only has two speakers anyway.


But otherwise, in your setup the HDTV is strictly for video. The AVR and connected speakers are for audio.


So, if your BluRay player [source device] is connected to your AVR via either (a) HDMI, or (b) component video + optical, then you have both audio and video always being delivered digitally to your AVR. If your HDTV is turned off that has zero impact what got delivered to the AVR from its source devices. And eliminating any output video display device by turning it off does not prevent the AVR from continuing to distribute audio to its conncected speakers from any AUDIO-source. Your BluRay player is both an audio and video source... via (a) HDMI, or (b) component video + optical.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Not surprised about finding little difference between upscaled DVDs and blurays. Don't know about the 800 but the 960's line doubler is outstanding. I dub films from HD stations onto DVD-R using a highly rated Panasonic recorder using the flexible recording mode for maximum picture quality. Yes, there is a difference between the original 1080i source and 480i down-converted recording dubbed through s-video cable and then up-converted to 1080i but on a comparison scale of 1-10, I would rate the recording about an 8 - not bad for a blank DVD costing maybe 35 cents. On our 32 inch LCD it looks about a 6.


Don't worry about the deep colour mode - the human eye can only see up to a certain amount of colors and all those advertised on bluray and flat panels go beyond the range of our eyeballs. Often, these additional enhancements (including more than three primary colors) usually distort what the actual color is supposed to appear as.


----------



## RobInBigKC

After six years of pretty much daily use, I replaced my 960 today with a newer and much larger (over 300% larger screen size) set for our "main television". Now that the day has quieted and everyone else is in bed, I've been reflecting on what a great set it was (is).


Oh well... as the saying goes, time stops for no one. Our basement game room, which is truly more game room than it is home theater, will be getting a fine set as its first 16:9 tv, right next to my 15+ years old 35" tube 4:3 Proscan.


----------



## myhui

I placed a Vizio 32" XVT323SV on the floor, in front of and below the XBR960N, for watching broadcast TV via antenna.


My BluRay player is connected to the XBR960N. So if I only play discs once every week, the XBR960N only goes on once every week.


I am keeping the XBR960N forever. The BluRay version of Wall Street 2 has extra material in the back, and one of them is a tour of downtown Manhattan. That segment looks superb on the XBR960N.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobInBigKC* /forum/post/21458611
> 
> 
> After six years of pretty much daily use, I replaced my 960 today with a newer and much larger (over 300% larger screen size) set for our "main television". Now that the day has quieted and everyone else is in bed, I've been reflecting on what a great set it was (is).
> 
> 
> Oh well... as the saying goes, time stops for no one. Our basement game room, which is truly more game room than it is home theater, will be getting a fine set as its first 16:9 tv, right next to my 15+ years old 35" tube 4:3 Proscan.



Hi Robin,


I believe as the screen becomes larger, some of the HD resolution is bound to be lost. For example, the original factory settings for our overscan were way off causing us to lose some of the information on all four sides. With the aid of a swatch pattern I was able to adjust the service settings and in doing found the picture to be sharper because the picture had been slightly stretched. Thus a small amount of picture quality has to be sacrificed for want of a larger screen.


Also, flat screen technology still cannot match the deep blacks and contrast of a CRT which results in a more detailed picture with depth perception.


But that doesn't mean one still cannot enjoy the picture quality of a new larger screen, only that that modern technology be it Plasma, LCD/LED or DLP still has it's short comings.


----------



## RobInBigKC




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/21462709
> 
> 
> Also, flat screen technology still cannot match the deep blacks and contrast of a CRT which results in a more detailed picture with depth perception.
> 
> 
> But that doesn't mean one still cannot enjoy the picture quality of a new larger screen, only that that modern technology be it Plasma, LCD/LED or DLP still has it's short comings.



I totally agree with both of these statements. Even six years ago, some of my friends had started going with LCD or Plasma sets (hmmm, I think they were out then but much more expensive, of course) and many had rear-projection big screens and didn't understand why I wanted an "old CRT" type tv. I never regretted my choice but having 3 teenage sons now, who are into watching sports on TV, has pushed me into "needing" a bigger set.


As for the new technologies, I admit I'd have hated to lift a 70" CRT onto my stand... if I could have even found a stand strong enough to hold it.







(In fact, I'm not looking forward to carrying the 960 down to our basement game room.)


----------



## rsinclair

@Freeze Time, I was able to sell the set for my asking price. Guess the market varies depending on your location.


-R


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobInBigKC* /forum/post/21462936
> 
> 
> I totally agree with both of these statements. Even six years ago, some of my friends had started going with LCD or Plasma sets (hmmm, I think they were out then but much more expensive, of course) and many had rear-projection big screens and didn't understand why I wanted an "old CRT" type tv. I never regretted my choice but having 3 teenage sons now, who are into watching sports on TV, has pushed me into "needing" a bigger set.
> 
> 
> As for the new technologies, I admit I'd have hated to lift a 70" CRT onto my stand... if I could have even found a stand strong enough to hold it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (In fact, I'm not looking forward to carrying the 960 down to our basement game room.)



Actually, due to the price factor, we lucked into the 960 back in July, 2005.


At that time the more expensive and larger Plasmas and LCDs were taking over and companies were pushing flat screens onto the consumer, implying that CRTs were inferior to these new technologies. We all know now that was a lot of BS but the trick was referring to CRTs in terms of 480i, not 1080i. Of course a high definition flat screen would look better than a standard definition tube set but they conveniently failed to mention that CRTs could handle high definition as well, thus misleading the public into thinking HD only meant flat panel.


The trend to flat panels was not to be stopped but am so glad our financial restraints caused us to "settle" for this gorgeous CRT instead of believing that misinforming hype. Even though I knew the 960 was a top rated HD monitor I still thought it wasn't as good as the flat panels until my eyes convinced me otherwise, first by finding this forum and then seeing the difference in picture quality for myself.


Again, not a knock on flat panels as this is more a defense of CRT.


----------



## hemogoblin

So ive realized 34" is just too small for my movies and have spent the last few weeks shopping for a new TV. I dont know if its just me or what, but many many newer TV's look much better than my old 960. I realized, no matter what size TV I get, it will always become small to me.


I didnt want to worry about lag and super crappy SD viewing. So since my 960 is still working pretty good, here was my solution.


960 for daily TV, SD and video games use. Epson 8100 projector with an 130" image for movies, sports, and video games. Pic looks pretty washed out because it was taken with full sunlight, but you get the idea.


I was all but ready to dump the 960, but nothing compares to it for SD use and old video games.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hemogoblin* /forum/post/21547683
> 
> 
> So ive realized 34" is just too small for my movies and have spent the last few weeks shopping for a new TV. I dont know if its just me or what, but many many newer TV's look much better than my old 960. I realized, no matter what size TV I get, it will always become small to me.
> 
> 
> I didnt want to worry about lag and super crappy SD viewing. So since my 960 is still working pretty good, here was my solution.
> 
> 
> 960 for daily TV, SD and video games use. Epson 8100 projector with an 130" image for movies, sports, and video games. Pic looks pretty washed out because it was taken with full sunlight, but you get the idea.
> 
> 
> I was all but ready to dump the 960, but nothing compares to it for SD use and old video games.



Wow, that is really big. Took me a few minutes to realize that was the 960 underneath it being dwarfed. And with that setup you've got as large a split screen system one could ask for.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Because I make a lot of DVD-R recordings I need to zoom the picture for anything recorded off a HD station since otherwise it would be played back window-boxed.


I used to have my DVD recorder's HDMI output set to fill the screen and then used the 960's vertical expand to get the correct aspect ratio for those wider than 4;3. I recently noticed, however, that the recording appears a bit sharper if I leave the recorder's HDMI output set to "normal" and use it's own zoom output, thus keeping the 960's picture size at the standard "full". So by having a zoomed output going into the 960 instead of depending upon the 960's various zoom features my DVD-Rs (and non-anaphoric commercial ones) do look even crisper.


I have the Panasonic EZ-28 DVD recorder connected to a DVR via s-cable and use the Panny's flex mode to useas little recording space as possible, I would say a film off a HD station down-converted for recording and then up-converted for playback (despite this multiple processing) looks like an 8.5 compared to the original source's 10 on the 960. These same discs played back via HDMI at 1080p on our 32 inch LCD appear good but the picture quality is not like it is on the 960.


Another reason why this old CRT technology set is still the greatest. If it does have to be replaced, I will have to accept the picture quality on these recordings to suffering just a slight bit.


----------



## Floydage

I've come across a Loewe ACO9383 38" widescreen CRT for $60. I currently have a Panasonic CT-34WX50 34" widescreen CRT.


Hard to find info but the Loewe appears to be ~2002, only one component input, a VGA input that may even be required for HD (?), and 220 lbs. Spectacular PQ at its time, may have had reliability issues (?) if I trust the blogs, and a curvy tube.


For OTA tuners all I have are converter boxes. I have a Sony Blu-ray player but I read there may be some issue getting HD (1080i) on component connections with some disks and a similar issue holds for DVDs.


Since I hate to use up my 'lifting help quota' should I hold out for one of the Sony HDMI ATSC Super Fine Pitch CRTs?


----------



## pca7ggr

Selling our KD-XBR960 - turning to the darkside and buying a 55" Panasonic Plasma. So if you are in the area, come by and pic it up for $200. No issues - great picture and flawless cabinet - includes remote and manuals. Thanks


Sergio
[email protected]


----------



## wilbur_the_goose

My xbr960 is now gone.... Picked up a new LCD 40" TV at the Sony Outlet today.


Pains me to say it, but I think the PQ on the new ($377) set is better than my ISF-calibrated 960.


----------



## snclawson

If anyone lives in the Salt Lake valley, I donated my KD-34XBR960 to the 7th East and 21st south Deseret Industries last Saturday, so it should be available to pick up there sometime soon (if not already). The thought of having the TV sit in our living room for weeks until some joker responds to the online ad and comes and gives a lowball offer -- along with wanting something extra -- was too much to deal with!


I am really sad that it's gone though. I ordered mine before it came out (after wanting an XBR910 for years), so I had it for nearly 8 years and it always was a great TV! With it gone I'm down to two CRTs now: my trusty Sony 19" GDM-F400 and a Panasonic 13" BT-H1390Y.


----------



## paulr1234

@LiquidSnake


I have an XBR960 which I have always loved but it is due for retirement soon, mainly because of space constraints.


I am curious, and always have been about one thing... So when you say "its analogue output does not have any technical limitation on the infinite waveforms that can describe the colours it can possibly be made to reproduce."


Are you suggesting that this set might be able present colour precision greater than 8-bit?


I know this set has a 10-bit comb filter but I don't think that is relevant (but have never been able to get anyone, including the Japanese designer of this set, to really explain things adequately.


I know the HDMI port in this set is only 8-bit.


A color grader I talked to over on Creative Cow suggested it might just possible be capable of 10-bit, providing I used the component inputs, going from SDI to component via a little converter box made by AJA.


In case anyone was wondering why I am bumping this very old thread about this very old TV, well 'retirement' means that i am considering using it as a client monitor for my own (soon to be 10-bit) video editing projects. Using the CRT for color rendition and an LCD for pixel accuracy. Not Hollywood, just to give me a better idea. I have the set anyway so why not use it.


----------



## Jerry69

Hello everyone, I recently bought an XBR960 on Craigslist for $150 and removed the anti-glare coating (which was a pain to do).


I use the TV for playing PS3 games and occasionally watching a Blu-Ray movie, and I was just wondering if it's really bad to always have this television set to Vivid mode instead of Standard, Movie, or Pro.


Vivid just looks the best to me, even though it's a little exaggerated and whites tend to seem a bit "neon" because of this. The other modes are very dim and dull in comparison to Vivid (I wish there was a middle ground between Vivid and Standard).


Reason I'm asking is because I heard Vivid mode could hurt the picture tube in the long run. Thanks in advance for the help!


----------



## iforsevilla

My 960 died last Feb 17,2012. Cause of death-- the 6-7 red blinks. I knew it was bound to happen sooner or later because on cold days when I turn it on it needed a couple of restarts to get it going. Anyways, I did lots of research and was able to find all the info I needed here, of course. It was the 2 IC chips MCZ3001DB that needs replacing. Cheapest for US vendors that time was $14-$15 a chip with a socket--ebay. I decided to get the one coming from China for $15 +$2.50 SH for 5 chips--ebay. Then I bought 2 sockets from RS for 59 cents each. Ordered it 2/19 and got it 3/7. Desoldered the 2 chips out of the board and soldered the sockets in. Pressed in the new IC chips and BINGO! My 34XBR has been resurrected!







Repair cost $35.--5 chips, 2 sockets, desoldering rod, magnifying glass.


Meanwhile, as I was waiting for the chips, I decided to try out a plasma tv from costco the Panasonic TC-P60S30 floor model for 900 + tax with 2 year warranty/90 day return. Man! plasmas sure have changed some from the last time I tried it 8 years ago. Picture looks good. Test drove it with some action dvds and blue rays, OTA signal and it sure performed well. Only gripe is that it has 920 hours of display time in costco warehouse-3 months in display. And a couple of seems to me a dot scratch on the screen. I did not want 3D so I got this lower model vs the TC-P60ST30 3D for $1200 + tax which I was thinking of getting first. Anyways, this is just as good I think for less. And the picture is really good.










The size of this 60" plasma sure makes my 960 look tiny now







. Although certain things like the tv speaker is better on the 960. Tweeking the remote and the tv options the 960 has a couple of better options as well. But size sure matters in this case. And the pictures good enough for me to keep. Now I am trap in the middle. But my 960 has no other place to go but the spot where it is in right now--living room. And thats where I was hoping to put the plasma as a replacement if I wasn't able to fix the 960. Had no plans on buying a tv and I was just trying it out but now it seems that I might keep this plasma. Its gonna be my first one if only I can figure out where else to put the XBR....


----------



## salty




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jerry69* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Reason I'm asking is because I heard Vivid mode could hurt the picture tube in the long run. Thanks in advance for the help!



Vivid was the so-called "torch" mode that stores would set the TV to so it would stand out in a fully lit department store. Since the showroom sets were on all day every day, it would really shorten the life of the tube. The phosphors on the inside of the tube only have so many good hours, and maximum brightness accelerates the aging process.


Theoretically, vivid will age the tube faster, but in your case you aren't leaving it on all the time. If that's how you like the picture to look, I wouldn't worry too much about it.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jerry69* /forum/post/21750451
> 
> 
> Hello everyone, I recently bought an XBR960 on Craigslist for $150 and removed the anti-glare coating (which was a pain to do).
> 
> 
> I use the TV for playing PS3 games and occasionally watching a Blu-Ray movie, and I was just wondering if it's really bad to always have this television set to Vivid mode instead of Standard, Movie, or Pro.
> 
> 
> Vivid just looks the best to me, even though it's a little exaggerated and whites tend to seem a bit "neon" because of this. The other modes are very dim and dull in comparison to Vivid (I wish there was a middle ground between Vivid and Standard).
> 
> 
> Reason I'm asking is because I heard Vivid mode could hurt the picture tube in the long run. Thanks in advance for the help!



Yes, don't use the Vivid mode at all - it is so high in contrast that it will shorten the lifespan of the tube. Best to use PRO.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *iforsevilla* /forum/post/21750499
> 
> 
> My 960 died last Feb 17,2012. Cause of death-- the 6-7 red blinks. I knew it was bound to happen sooner or later because on cold days when I turn it on it needed a couple of restarts to get it going. Anyways, I did lots of research and was able to find all the info I needed here, of course. It was the 2 IC chips MCZ3001DB that needs replacing. Cheapest for US vendors that time was $14-$15 a chip with a socket--ebay. I decided to get the one coming from China for $15 +$2.50 SH for 5 chips--ebay. Then I bought 2 sockets from RS for 59 cents each. Ordered it 2/19 and got it 3/7. Desoldered the 2 chips out of the board and soldered the sockets in. Pressed in the new IC chips and BINGO! My 34XBR has been resurrected!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repair cost $35.--5 chips, 2 sockets, desoldering rod, magnifying glass.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, as I was waiting for the chips, I decided to try out a plasma tv from costco the Panasonic TC-P60S30 floor model for 900 + tax with 2 year warranty/90 day return. Man! plasmas sure have changed some from the last time I tried it 8 years ago. Picture looks good. Test drove it with some action dvds and blue rays, OTA signal and it sure performed well. Only gripe is that it has 920 hours of display time in costco warehouse-3 months in display. And a couple of seems to me a dot scratch on the screen. I did not want 3D so I got this lower model vs the TC-P60ST30 3D for $1200 + tax which I was thinking of getting first. Anyways, this is just as good I think for less. And the picture is really good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size of this 60" plasma sure makes my 960 look tiny now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Although certain things like the tv speaker is better on the 960. Tweeking the remote and the tv options the 960 has a couple of better options as well. But size sure matters in this case. And the pictures good enough for me to keep. Now I am trap in the middle. But my 960 has no other place to go but the spot where it is in right now--living room. And thats where I was hoping to put the plasma as a replacement if I wasn't able to fix the 960. Had no plans on buying a tv and I was just trying it out but now it seems that I might keep this plasma. Its gonna be my first one if only I can figure out where else to put the XBR....



All I know is if my 960 is ever in need of repair, I'm flying you in from San Francisco to New York no matter what the cost!


Can imagine your joy at discovering the 960 was back up and running. Good luck with the new Plasma too - and unless you are into 3D, I think you did well to avoid paying more for the 3D feature for no matter what the industry tries to spin, the picture quality is not really better due to the "advanced" technology required for 3D (3D is a dud but remember when the first signs of it being a flop became apparent, the advertising hype was changed to emphasize getting it for the best 2D picture instead?).


BTW - if both sets are in the space you wanted the Plasma, there's always those TV stands on wheels and then you can always move the Plasma in front of the 960 whenever you want to.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/21751267
> 
> 
> Yes, don't use the Vivid mode at all - it is so high in contrast that it will shorten the lifespan of the tube. Best to use PRO.



Correct.


But just because PRO starts off by eliminating all of the "torch mode" settings in the VIVID preset, and thus looks darker and duller by comparison, if you watch TV in a dark room these initial PRO settings with lesser brightness and lesser contrast actually make for quite a stunning picture... viewing in a dark room.


VIVID was intended for viewing in a brightly lit store environment, where higher brightness and contrast was required to have the customer be able to see anything on the screen.



Anyway, all of the VIVID, MOVIE, STD and PRO setups are simply "presets", with VIVID having the largest "bias" values off of dead-center flat. But you can still apply user-customizations to all four of them and they will be remembered (uniquely).


PRO simply starts off as "FLAT", with no built-in bias for anything. And because of this it's actually the proper starting point for tweaking user and service mode settings to optimize the picture from the XBR960.


So you can create your own four separate customized "presets" for four different viewing conditions, with these four names even though the settings are yours. Yes, you will be starting from the internal preset bias values but you can adjust them yourself. I'd suggest allocating PRO to the dark room viewing environment, and VIVID for the bright daylight room viewing environment, etc.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber* /forum/post/21753164
> 
> 
> Correct.
> 
> 
> But just because PRO starts off by eliminating all of the "torch mode" settings in the VIVID preset, and thus looks darker and duller by comparison, if you watch TV in a dark room these initial PRO settings with lesser brightness and lesser contrast actually make for quite a stunning picture... viewing in a dark room.
> 
> 
> VIVID was intended for viewing in a brightly lit store environment, where higher brightness and contrast was required to have the customer be able to see anything on the screen.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, all of the VIVID, MOVIE, STD and PRO setups are simply "presets", with VIVID having the largest "bias" values off of dead-center flat. But you can still apply user-customizations to all four of them and they will be remembered (uniquely).
> 
> 
> PRO simply starts off as "FLAT", with no built-in bias for anything. And because of this it's actually the proper starting point for tweaking user and service mode settings to optimize the picture from the XBR960.
> 
> 
> So you can create your own four separate customized "presets" for four different viewing conditions, with these four names even though the settings are yours. Yes, you will be starting from the internal preset bias values but you can adjust them yourself. I'd suggest allocating PRO to the dark room viewing environment, and VIVID for the bright daylight room viewing environment, etc.



Hi Ds,


I too noticed that if I lowered the vivid picture/brightness controls (with the aid of test patterns) enough to eliminate the torch effect the picture was dull and flat. Service settings had been tweaked prior to that. When seriously watching the set (for a movie or sporting event - not QVC







we tend to keep the room lowerly lit to begin with so our service and user settings were made under those conditions.


The closest of the two picture modes when properly tweaked seem to be standard and pro. Use movie mode for DVDs because it shares the HDMI input with the DVR (have a switch box for multiple HDMI uses).


How have things been?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/21757611
> 
> 
> I too noticed that if I lowered the vivid picture/brightness controls (with the aid of test patterns) enough to eliminate the torch effect the picture was dull and flat.



Could be just the combination of all of the Sony factory adjustments going into the VIVID preset cause the result you describe when turning down just brightness or contrast in trying to make it a bit less "vivid". Might be that there are further service menu settings that should also be reduced, and that just one or two simple user menu reductions actually do make it look kind of worse.


I honestly can't contribute from firsthand experience, because I never leave the PRO-tweaked setup I have, no matter whether it's day or night. This is my one-and-only viewing setup "for real", and is intended and optimized (for me, anyway) for true dark room environment watching when I sit down to seriously view anything (be it HDTV or BluRay movies).


I actually don't care what it looks like if I'm working on my computer during the day and have the TV on ("in the background") for a talk show or something irrelevant. So the fact that with daylight in the room the picture is clearly not really usable is just not critical to me, as long as I can hear the sound. I know, that sounds unacceptable for others, but it's just how I use TV... during the day, anyway.




> Quote:
> The closest of the two picture modes when properly tweaked seem to be standard and pro. Use movie mode for DVDs because it shares the HDMI input with the DVR (have a switch box for multiple HDMI uses).



I've got my three HD sources (DVR which is actually HTPC, Oppo BluRay player, and DVHS VCR) going through my Yamaha AVR, with the HDMI output of the AVR feeding the XBR960. I simply use my one and only PRO adjustments settings for everything. Never touch the XBR960 from that, even though there are bound to be minor differences in appearance on the TV from TV show to TV show, as well as from movie to movie.


Perhaps it's just laziness, but it's like the audio EQ setup in my car, where I just feel I've found the "optimal" general setup that seems to work "best, for almost everything". I just don't want to fool with it anymore because I don't want to lose that "sweet spot" I've found, fearing I'll never find it again. Same with my XBR960 viewing setup, all other variables in my environment considered. Same with my home sound system setup to go along with the XBR960, which also involves adjustments to several component/variables. I just like the final result, and have gotten used to it for general use, even though for individual situations perhaps there might be some little tweak here or there that could make it "better".


I've just gotten used to the audio/visual results of what was a focused effort to find "the best" settings in all of these systems. I have definitely "gotten use to" all of these results, and now just use (a) POWER on/off, and (b) AVR volume. I know that sounds almost criminally naive, but it's all just that otherwise satisfying to me with the net total set of "adjustments" that we all know really went into the setup/tweaking of each individual component in the entire system.




> Quote:
> How have things been?



Good! My XBR960 is now about 8 years old (knock wood) and still stunning. I have made only two subsequent very small geometry and picture adjustments in the user and service menus since settling on my original set of values as recorded in the spreadsheet I'd posted a long time ago. These small "post-launch course corrections" were done a few years ago now, and I attribute the need for them to ordinary aging of the set.


Apart from its original two "failed" visits from a Sony factory tech when I first bought it because of geometry problems when it was brand new, followed by two "successful" visits (one primary, and one follow-up for some small further adjustments) from a local very qualified TV service technician who did the very significant and completely successful "magnet job" on the picture tube and additional "by sight" service menu adjustments, all of which were done in the first few months of its life in my home, it's never needed any further formal technician service since.


Never been ISF'd, and I don't want to start now. Best to leave well enough alone.


I still watch from a viewing distance of about 4-1/2' to 5'. Sure, the 55" new Sony XBR LCD set at my sister's is much larger and can be watched from the sofa across the room, and it can deliver 1080p, but I'm still perfectly content with my XBR960 and my own personal viewing/listening configuration.



It should be noted that I still don't have a true multi-channel loudspeaker-based sound system, although I do use an old Altec-Lansing 621 2.1 speaker system as my "external speakers" for the XBR960 (fed from AVR, and DBX EQ for tone control), rather than the pretty poor built-in speakers on the TV itself.


The rest of the "serious listening" capability comes from headphones. This Stax and Smyth Realiser-based system has undergone a number of very significant improvements over the years:


(a) Stax SR-Omega headphones (aka Omega-1), vintage 1995


(b) Stax SRM-007tII headphone amp (recently acquired, replacing a former Stax SRM-T1S vintage 1995 headphone amp); the amp is fed via Audioquest King Cobra XLR cables from an external DAC


(c) Audio-GD NFB9 external DAC, feeding the headphone amp via XLR cables; fed via 2-channel optical digital from my Smyth Realiser


(d) Smyth A8 Realiser, for "SVS" processing fed from multi-channel input; delivers 2-channel headphone-intended digital optical output of its "SVS-processed sound" to the external DAC; fed via discrete 8-channel analog input from the discrete 8-channel preamp outputs of my Yamaha AVR. The AVR (for DD5.1 delivered by the DVR or DVHS VCR) or Oppo (for DD5.1, DTS-MAHD, etc., delivering 192/LPCM to the AVR) converts digital to discrete channel analog for delivery via preamp outputs to the Realiser.


The Realiser replaces the previous Dolby Headphone processors I used to use way back when (Pioneer DIR-SE1000C and Philips HD1500U).


The current digital optical delivery system from Realiser to external DAC and analog XLR cable to the SRM-007tII amp is a recent upgrade. Originally this was an all-analog RCA 2-channel analog delivery system (making use of the Realiser's built-in DAC and output amp), going from the Realiser's RCA headphone outputs to my DBX 14/10 EQ for gain and 14-band tone control, and then from DBX EQ to the SRM-T1S headphone amp.


Although my own Realiser cannot be upgraded, more recent models of the Realiser include an HDMI-input option, to support input of 8-channel discrete LPCM digital audio (decoded upstream by the source device) via HDMI, in addition to its alternative 8-channel discrete analog inputs. This avoids the A-to-D conversion in the Realiser (needed for the analog inputs) in order to perform the digital SVS processing of multi-channel source to "Smyth virtual surround" 2-channel headphone.


Using the 8-channel LPCM via HDMI input option the entire multi-channel source delivery system feeding input to SVS is then completely digital, with no D-to-A and A-to-D conversions needed. And when the optical-to-external-DAC output system is involved, the only analog stage anywhere is that final required one feeding the headphone amp from the external DAC, to provide the SVS-processed 2-channel "virtual surround" headphone result from the 8-channel digital input.



For anybody not knowing about the Smyth Realiser, this is NOT DOLBY HEADPHONE nor is it anything like Dolby Headphone. It is a system designed to deliver sound through headphones that is an exact duplicate of any listening environment sound room you take a "measurement" in. The "measurement" involves calibrated microphones inserted into your ears, processing the measured binaural results from listening to specific generated sweep signals sent individually by the Realiser (in "calibration mode") to each speaker the listening room.


The digital results (stored as a file on an SD flash card and/or in digital memory of the Realiser) describe how YOUR EARS AND BRAIN heard the sound IN THAT ROOM, involving all of the characteristics going into what makes that room sound like that room to you. This includes the net total effect of floor, wall and ceiling treatments and sound baffles, speakers used and their placement, electronics and delivery components, etc.


When that digital file (known as a PRIR, which describes how that room sounded to your own ears) is used "in reverse", to LISTEN TO ANY MULTI-CHANNEL SOURCE through that same "filter", the effect is as if you were listening to whatever source content you're listeing to IN THE VERY SAME ORIGINAL LISTENING ENVIRONMENT.


In other words, it's like taking home a "sonic photograph" of any listening room in which the PRIR measurement gets made (think buying an hour of high-end sound studio time, and getting a PRIR to take home with you) that is a perfect sonic "filter" which can then be used to duplicate that room's sound in your headphones from any source you care to play back through that filter. Watch a BluRay movie or HDTV program, and through your headphones it sounds like you are in that original high-end studio listening room to the sound through the speakers and environment of that room.


There is no "optimal" or "best" PRIR. That's not the intent of the system. In fact, you probably will accumulate a whole "library" collection of assorted PRIR's, from each "measurement" you're lucky enough to arrange in some particular sound studio or theater or home or wherever. You then use any or all of them at "playback" time, to listen to actual new movie/DVR content in your bedroom or living room or theater... through headphones.


So your collection of PRIR's represents different listening rooms you've been fortunate enough to "measure". And then you can duplicate the sound of that particular room when listening through headphones to anything fed through that particular PRIR "filter", thanks to the Realiser and SVS processing.


If you haven't ever heard of it or experienced SVS for yourself (and in particularly, been lucky enough to arrange for a PRIR measurement in a high-end sound studio with astonishing sound that you would otherwise never be able to afford for yourself in your own home, e.g. the AIX mixing room in Los Angeles), and if you're a real lover of high-end sound and high-end headphones... look into it.


----------



## Floydage

Some TVs have a photo sensor linked to one of the pic adjust settings that automatically adjusts for room light. On my Panasonic CT-34WX50 it's called Auto.


----------



## Ennui




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage* /forum/post/21758555
> 
> 
> Some TVs have a photo sensor linked to one of the pic adjust settings that automatically adjusts for room light. On my Panasonic CT-34WX50 it's called Auto.



Yes, my XBR8 has a "Light Sensor" that "allows the TV to automatically adjust the backlight brightness based on the picture settings and the ambient room light conditions."


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ennui* /forum/post/21777611
> 
> 
> Yes, my XBR8 has a "Light Sensor" that "allows the TV to automatically adjust the backlight brightness based on the picture settings and the ambient room light conditions."



I had one on an old Panasonic CRT from the late eighties and liked it, however, with a high definition set I'm wondering if those sensors could have some drawbacks for the more serious viewer. After calibrating, the viewing conditions would thus always need remain constant for otherwise could the sensor somewhat alter the picture quality since detail, color and sharpness is so much dependent upon proper brightness and contrast settings? So if the brightness and contrast changes under varying conditions, could that throw off the "true" HD picture quality during certain times, even if calibrated with the sensor off? Maybe not off by much, but for the discerning viewer that could make a major difference.


So I'm not too sure how much use of a sensor would alter the more complex picture quality of high definition.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin* /forum/post/21783577
> 
> 
> So I'm not too sure how much use of a sensor would alter the more complex picture quality of high definition.



My Panasonic 34" widescreen HD CRT works fine with it but I don't know about flat panels, assuming they even have it. I would think the trick is to adjust pic in a dark room, which I suspect is a standard methodology, and let the sensor do its magic in a bright room.


----------



## turbo999usa

Hi All, it's been a while since I have been on the thread.


Like some of you, I too have two 960s and just ran into my first MALFUNCTION. The screen suddenly went dark red with only ghost-like images visible. Use Directv with composite inputs. Swapped cable, rebooted TV and receiver, nothing.


Anything I should know? I would hate to discover it's shot.


----------



## pca7ggr

I've decided to turn to the darkside and replace my XBR960 with, dare I say it, a Panasonic plasma big screen.


As such I am selling our XBR with the SONY stand. So if you (or someone you know) are in the San Francisco Bay Area and want (or need) this excellent TV, contact me and we'll work out a deal. sgmeza(at)sbcglobal.net Thanks


----------



## pca7ggr

I pulled the trigger on Panasonic TCP65VT30 65" 600Hz 1080p 3D TV.


So, my XBR960 with Sony stand, remote and manuals gotta go.....


NO reasonable offer refused - the TV is in Dublin CA (San Francisco East Bay)


Sergio
[email protected]


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pca7ggr* /forum/post/21859732
> 
> 
> I pulled the trigger on Panasonic TCP65VT30 65" 600Hz 1080p 3D TV.
> 
> 
> So, my XBR960 with Sony stand, remote and manuals gotta go.....
> 
> 
> NO reasonable offer refused - the TV is in Dublin CA (San Francisco East Bay)
> 
> 
> Sergio
> [email protected]



PCA,


Just make sure that nobody confuses the TV in Dublin for the one in my house.










How are you enjoying the 3D on your new set?


----------



## PathofNeo

This may be better suited for the audio forum but thought I'd post here to see what you think...


I recently obtained my third 34XBR960, and a beauty it is. All I have now is an Xbox 360 but for some reason the picture looks sharper with more brilliant color with the component connection. I also used it instead of HDMI on my last one because the HDMI resulted in slightly softer picture. I also noticed the same with my Oppo DVD player. When using monoprice component cable and 480i mode even DVDs are astoundingly sharp. Not so much with HDMI (tried several cables). I don't know what I'm doing wrong but that's how it is.


Anyway the real question I need answered is can you recommend me a receiver that's under $600 that has lots of rca component connections? Currently I'm using an Okyo SR608 and it's been good to me. I know it's nothing high end but I'm okay with that. I have it hooked up to Definitive Audio 600-series speakers and for a setup that cost a grand it rocks my room.


I plan to keep these speakers and just need a replacement receiver that has several standard a/v and component inputs (like min 4 each). Would be nice to have some standard a/v, hdmi, etc but not necessary. Does Onkyo make one for me that you can recommend, or perhaps another brand that's just as good?


If someone can tell me how to properly adjust things maybe I'll keep what I have because I have like 5 hdmi inputs on my Onkyo and it's a nice unit.


----------



## THX-1138

The sony should have at least two component inputs on it.

I suspect the sony crts work better on component than hdmi, with newer sources anyway.

Seems I've read some people prefer component always.


Last receiver I bought, the switching was so useless and the amp quality so bad, I returned the unit and bought a used one of the same brand, but made earlier.

No regrets.


The only choices I found at the time were high end preamps with superb flexibility and high quality, and high cost.


Separate editing switchers is another alternative for you.

Editing is the only time I'll probably need more than the seven inputs on the sonys.

A lot of analog equipment is on the market now.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> I recently obtained my third 34XBR960, and a beauty it is. All I have now is an Xbox 360 but for some reason the picture looks sharper with more brilliant color with the component connection. I also used it instead of HDMI on my last one because the HDMI resulted in slightly softer picture. I also noticed the same with my Oppo DVD player. When using monoprice component cable and 480i mode even DVDs are astoundingly sharp. Not so much with HDMI (tried several cables). I don't know what I'm doing wrong but that's how it is.



I read an article (search 'component vs HDMI') and it stated that HDMI is not always better than component, depends on the devices, setup, etc. Of course it could be due to picture settings on your devices, at least for the TV the menu settings most likely change vs input and format. Hopefully the 960 and/or gaming experts here can help you further.



> Quote:
> Anyway the real question I need answered is can you recommend me a receiver that's under $600 that has lots of rca component connections?



I see lots of those going dirt cheap on Craigslist as folks upgrade to HDMI (or HDMI to 3D?). Fry's ads have been showing new ones on sale for only a few hundred bucks although they may have cut back on the number of component ports with the proliferation of HDMI. I don't know about those Onkyos, my neighbor gave me his TX-SR707 after the audio section went out and after looking this malady up on the 'net it appears it's a (or was) common problem with Onkyos; he said it was only a few years old and he paid around $800, amazing a new and even fancier equivalent I've seen in the Fry's ads for $300 (BTW this 707 (HDMI) only has two component inputs and one component output).


----------



## Slinky11




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pca7ggr* /forum/post/21859732
> 
> 
> I pulled the trigger on Panasonic TCP65VT30 65" 600Hz 1080p 3D TV.
> 
> 
> So, my XBR960 with Sony stand, remote and manuals gotta go.....
> 
> 
> NO reasonable offer refused - the TV is in Dublin CA (San Francisco East Bay)
> 
> 
> Sergio
> [email protected]



Let me know if you need someone to take the stand off your hands


----------



## neccrttv

Digital to digital conversion is not always better than analog to digital. Picture quality is much more dependant on the DA4 scalers used in the XBR960. The DA4 chassis has no real HDMI capabilities. It has a integrated HDMI (or DVI on previous models) to component coverter, which is HDCP compliant. This conversion brings its losses.

Pure 1080i in analog will not require any scaling and should result in a better quality image, if only slightly.

Ive observed the same on some Samsung Slimfits (other than the horrible geometry







). The picture quality in component is more precise and has less digital to digital loss.

Remember that all CRT's are analog. No way its information being sent to the CRT







.

There is always a loss when there is conversion, be it digital to digital or analog to digital (or vice versa). The Xbox 360 has a 720p output without scaling. The DA4 has a 1080i 'native' resolution (no scaling required).

This means

XBOX 360 to HDMI out : 720p to 1080i scaling - Digital to digital

inside the XBR960 : UD board converts 1080i digital to 1080i analog in component format - digital to analog

the picture is then processed by the MID and DRC on the B-board and sent as RGB signals to the CRT.

Here's how it is:










Yes i know its written DVI but the same applies to the HDMI board on the XBR960 (different revision of the UD board which has integrated amplification of the component signal)


----------



## Joseph Dubin

In the past I did compare HDMI to component, using test patterns to try and get the settings to be equal.


Found picture quality to be a subtle bit more sharper and vivid than component for both my HD DVR and DVD (both commercial and my own DVD-R recordings) up-converted to 1080i as opposed to 480p.


But I must also add that I only calibrated the HDMI service settings on my own (with HD test patterns) and not component - perhaps had I tweaked component as well I might not have noticed any difference.


----------



## hoffo

While not this exact set I've found that my Toshiba 30HF66 does display a bit better performance over component than over HDMI. Resolution test patterns showed component had the edge over HDMI using the same picture settings on both inputs. I'd wager that most HD CRTs do slightly better over component than HDMI do to the signal remaining analog.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Well,


Just now you guys have me thinking I should do the long exercise all over again with the component - except that had test patterns stored on my HD DVR from the old INHD station that were accidentally erased and I as yet do not have a bluray. I find external test patterns much easier to use than those inside the unit - the internal geometry patterns alone caused a much distorted picture.


----------



## Floydage

Of course there's the issue of how a source device spits out its signals. For example a blu-ray player with a 1080p disk has to convert to 1080i and there's its conversion to component output. Also the frame conversion for 24p.


Then some blu-ray disks (players too?) won't allow HD on component due to copy protection.


----------



## THX-1138

Is that bluray or just dvd upconversion?

I have noted that my dvd recorders won't accept component input.


Panasonic told me that my Pana outputs in hidef on component.

Seems to.


If I can't get hidef, I have no use for bluray whatsoever.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *THX-1138* /forum/post/21903185
> 
> 
> Is that bluray or just dvd upconversion?
> 
> I have noted that my dvd recorders won't accept component input.
> 
> 
> Panasonic told me that my Pana outputs in hidef on component.
> 
> Seems to.
> 
> 
> If I can't get hidef, I have no use for bluray whatsoever.



Blu-ray and possibly DVDs. The film makers didn't want their HD stuff being pirated so copy-restriction is part of HDMI protocol or somesuch; component was before this time so that's how the component requirement came to be as far as I know. I believe component outputs on blu-ray players is being or has been phased out. Also something about some blu-ray disk makers putting a flag on the disk to prevent 'full' HD on component (although I think in 'olden' times 480p might have been considered HD). The manual for my older Sony blu-ray player shows that it _may_ only output 480i or 480p on component with some copy-guarded BDs/DVDs and if I _set_ to output 1080p it'll output 480i on component. It'll give me 1080i on component if the BD isn't restricted and 480p on component if the DVD isn't restricted (regardless of 720p or 1080i setting for DVD). The table&notes in the manual would be worth a thousand words here (model BDP-S300).


----------



## Joseph Dubin

My 960 will turn seven years old next month and I still wouldn't trade it for anything else out there today.


Not a knock on today's flat screens - just that despite the now too many screen areas where the coating came off (not noticeable with normal daylight or low indoor lighting) I am still amazed at the unmatched vivid detail this set has to offer.


BTW - still unplug the 960 one a month for about ten minutes for the degauser to fully do it's job.


..... also, just want to keep this forum going.


----------



## THX-1138

My bluray puts out a better picture when component is assigned over hdmi.

Seems to be a processing thing.

They may all be that way.


I saw a 910 recently being fed off hdmi, but through a receiver that may have some processing in it.

It was the Fifth Element on bluray.

Looked very good.


----------



## jameslieb1

Hey guys I'm planning on buying one of these on Craigslist. Just so I'm clear, you can turn off HDPT in the settings so that 1080i signals are converted to analog, therefore eliminating input lag, right? So that would mean that since the Xbox 360 can upscale everything to 1080i on its own, there won't be any lag for 360 games, correct? Also if I were to hook up a composite (red white and yellow) device to this TV, would I be able to view it in 4:3 without input lag? Or would I have to have that ugly stretched-out picture (and would there be input lag even then)? I'm planning to pick it up on Saturday so if someone could answer these questions before then that would be awesome. Feel free to answer with a reply to this thread or you can just PM me if you prefer. Thanks a lot guys.


----------



## THX-1138

The component inputs are analog.


You can display 4:3 as 4:3.


----------



## jameslieb1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *THX-1138*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7560#post_22205324
> 
> 
> The component inputs are analog.
> 
> You can display 4:3 as 4:3.



So no stretched-out picture? And what about input lag?


----------



## THX-1138

4:3 unless you want it otherwise.



I have no idea about input lag.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jameslieb1*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7560#post_22205305
> 
> 
> Hey guys I'm planning on buying one of these on Craigslist. Just so I'm clear, you can turn off HDPT in the settings so that 1080i signals are converted to analog, therefore eliminating input lag, right?


Don't understand. What is HDPT??


What is "input lag"? Are you referring to the time that it takes for the 960 to re-configure itself if you change from a source feed at 1080i to 720p or 480i? Yes, that takes 1-2 seconds and the screen goes dark briefly during that process. This is referred to as "native", with the source always being true source resolution and the 960 accepting that source resolution in its "native" form (rather than being up-converted to a fixed 1080i by the source device and fed to the 960 at a constant 1080i so that the 960 never has to switch resolutions, which causes 1-2 seconds of dark while that happens).


1080i refers to an HD format, delivered to the 960 either via component video (3-cables red, blue, green) or HDMI. Either way, it's 1080i format filling the entire 16x9 screen.



> Quote:
> So that would mean that since the Xbox 360 can upscale everything to 1080i on its own, there won't be any lag for 360 games, correct?


Again, don't understand. The 960 doesn't do any upscaling of its own. It simply accepts whatever program resolution the source device delivers, and that is what gets displayed. If you deliver a new program at a different resolution than the previous program was at, the 960 will take that 1-2 seconds to reconfigure itself, to accept the new program's "native" resolution and display it.


So if you want the 960 to never "change resolutions" to avoid that occasional 1-2 second hiccup, then you simply use your xBox set at a fixed output of 1080i and let it do the up-conversions instead (assuming the program content it's delivering is not already at 1080i). This WILL avoid the 960 having any 1-2 second resolution change incidents, but you're also doing upconversion to 1080i subject to the quality of the video electronics in the xBox.



> Quote:
> Also if I were to hook up a composite (red white and yellow) device to this TV,


Your terminology isn't quite accurate..


"Composite" is YELLOW, and is a video cable one signal delivery grade better than the lowest 75ohm coax. It is a strictly old-fashioned analog video cable, capable of delivering 4:3 480i only. It is one step up from the lowest possible analog video quality 75-ohm RF coax), and one step below the next highest analog video quality source-to-TV cable connection of S-Video.


The red/white cable pair you refer to is actually the audio delivery system for L/R-stereo. Yes, it is typically a 3-cable yellow/red/white set, but the yellow cable is actually referred to as "composite" (as opposed to "coax" or "S-Video"). The red/white pair for audio is totally unrelated to the video cable other than by virtue of it's perhaps being part of a 3-wire cable.



> Quote:
> would I be able to view it in 4:3 without input lag?


If you use any form of old-fashioned 4:3 480i analog video cable (coax, composite, or S-video) to feed the 960, you will by definition NOT be seeing 16:9 nor will you be seeing HD (720p or 1080i). It is IMPOSSIBLE to see 16:9 720p/1080i HD content over an old analog 4:3 480i cable like this.


So the 960 will by definition have to be operating in 480i mode, when fed from such a cable. The numbered signal inputs you can use on the 960 will have to be 1-4, which support 4:3 480i composite/S-video and L/R-stereo audio only.



> Quote:
> Or would I have to have that ugly stretched-out picture (and would there be input lag even then)?


The 960 can be configured to display 4:3 480i source programs at "normal" 4:3 OAR (i.e. centered on the screen, with black bars on left and right of the 16:9 screen real estate). There will be no stretch-o-vision effect unless you yourself push the ZOOM button to cycle through various non-OAR presentation formats to enlarge the image on the screen. But if you don't want that, then 4:3 480i OAR is how the 960 can show your original 4:3 480i content fed from any source device over composite/S-Video.


Since all delivered source will by definition have to be at 480i, there will never be any "input lag" caused by resolution changing in the source programs from the Xbox, since via composite video cable only 480i is possible. There will and can never be a resolution change to trigger a 1-2 second hiccup.


But surely you're not buying a 960 to use strictly for 480i 4:3 content over composite/S-video are you? Or are you?


Anyway, despite its age the 960 is of course the "reference standard" for HD video quality (i.e. 16:9 and 720p/1080i). For optimal results you need to use component video or HDMI (delivered through its inputs 5-7) which is then where you'll really be pleased with your purchase (assuming a decent 960 user/service menu tweak/setup if required).


For maximum enjoyment and 960 performance, you want to connect all source devices to the 960 using either component video or HDMI (to allow full HD and 16:9 image). My own preference is to NOT do any up-converting in the source device, but to let the 960 go through its own picture optimization based on the "native" source program resolution (i.e. 480i, 480p, 720p or 1080i) coming from the source device.


----------



## swing1951

Hello, all. I've wanted one of these sets for several years, based on this thread (most of which I've read--yow) and the many glowing reviews online. I finally obtained one about a month ago via Craig's List in Eugene, Oregon. Having always been a patron of excellence, or one who aspired to same, I am very, very happy. The viewing experience is at least as fine as what I view on a Panasonic plasma, the TC-P65S1, purchased in 2009, not a great TV but quite a good one. I think the 960's performance is probably superior in some ways. I now watch it almost exclusively.


This Sony with the SFP pic tube truly is the Cadillac of TVs still, in more ways than one: they are excellent of their kind, constructed of (mostly) high end components and parts, are wonderful to behold and operate, have a jillion bells and whistles, and have a resale value that is bad for people who want to sell them, great for others who want to buy them. They're practically giving them away.


I can't say that I'm blown away or that it's like looking out a window, but I am very impressed. The XBR960 is truly a splendid TV, a classic, with superb...nearly everything.


The geometry issues can be annoying for one, such as myself, who is anal retentive about such things. It obviously has never had a magnet job and the downward (or upward) bowing of some straight lines (yes, primarily horizontal) is a little irritating but not what I would describe as atrocious. And it has the usual slight convergence issues on the bottom and top edges mostly, primarily evident in the infamous upper right hand corner. Probably wouldn't even be noticeable if I weren't used to watching a plasma with its perfect geometry and convergence. The audio, while not great by any means, is pretty good for a TV, greatly enhanced by the supplementation of a subwoofer, plugged into one of the audio outs in the back of the set.


Otherwise, my new (to me) XBR960 is a diamond, living up to its extensive adulation and legendary status. The resolution, color, blacks, pictorial "depth" (for lack of a better term), clarity, overall impact--it's all superb, stunning, as reported, even on the better SD channels. Best $100 bucks I ever spent.


I've fiddled around in the service menu as much as I've dared and have managed to improve some things, especially the overscan problem.


Thanks, you guys, for all the great tips, hints, commentary, et al of many years running now. Special thanks to DSperber, KenTech and Joseph D. for their knowledge and enthusiasm. I've joined the party very late but I certainly am enjoying it.


Manufactured in May 2005, by the way. It's held up wonderfully well.


----------



## THX-1138

To clarify, you can feed a 16:9 image off a 480 signal.

You can even record it on a vcr.


I think he's talking about processing delays.

The 960 does some processing, I think.

Some can be turned off.

I don't know about all.


----------



## Kool-aid23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7560#post_22204767
> 
> 
> My 960 will turn seven years old next month and I still wouldn't trade it for anything else out there today.
> 
> Not a knock on today's flat screens - just that despite the now too many screen areas where the coating came off (not noticeable with normal daylight or low indoor lighting) I am still amazed at the unmatched vivid detail this set has to offer.
> 
> BTW - still unplug the 960 one a month for about ten minutes for the degauser to fully do it's job.
> 
> ..... also, just want to keep this forum going.



Congrats. Mine turned 7 this year as well







I feel your pain about the coating. I wish I would have complained a little more and traded for the 960N model







Nevertheless, still enjoying this tv. but I may be moving it downstairs this fall to be replaced by a Kuro 500M.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *THX-1138*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7590#post_22206741
> 
> 
> To clarify, you can feed a 16:9 image off a 480 signal.
> 
> You can even record it on a vcr.


I don't agree.


A 16:9 image can be letterboxed into a 4:3 area (black bars on top and bottom from letterbox, black bars on left and right from OAR) producing a "postage stamp" appearance. So if you record a letterboxed 16:9 program onto a standard 480i VCR via any 480i-only analog connection (e.g. coax, composite, S-video) you will get a letterboxed result when you play it back. Yes, the actual letterboxed visible image is 16:9 aspect ratio, but it can only be within a 4:3 image area because of the nature of 480i 4:3.


So if you then play back that analog 480i recording onto a TV (also via coax, composite or S-Video) the presention will be letterboxed 4:3 if the TV is a 4:3 set. If the set is a 16:9 screen then it will appear postage stamp (i.e. both letterboxed 4:3 within a centered 4:3 image area that has black bars on left and right).


We're probably talking semantics here, but just because you see a 16:9 rectangular and letterboxed image impressed onto a 4:3 image area on some screen (4:3 or 16:9) doesn't mean you're really seeing a 16:9 image. You're actually seeing a 4:3 image, whose inner content happens to be a letterboxed 16:9 original image that's been re-sized such that there are black bars on top and bottom so that the full width of the 4:3 image area is used for the longer edges of the 16:9 content inside.


The fact that you can record a 16:9 channel on a 4:3 480i VCR, fed out over an analog cable (coax, composite, or S-video) doesn't mean you've recorded a 16:9 image. You've recorded a 4:3 image whose content contains a letterboxed 16:9 original image.


Of course you can always ZOOM something up (if your TV or source playback device supports it) to fill most or all of the 16:9 screen at playback time, and it may or may not look correct, but the original source on the 4:3 480i VCR can be nothing other than 4:3 480i in true content... no matter what is actually inside of that "near-square".


----------



## THX-1138

No, I mean what I said.


I do it all the time.

Records in compressed 4:3, dispays in 16:9, same as the transmission.

If you can display it, you can record it.


Letterbox records as 4:3 letterbox, plays the same.


----------



## Floydage

I have a Panasonic version of one of these and I record (VCR) from a converter box in 16:9 mode and the Panny displays it 16:9 using its Full mode. Compression and decompression.


I can also use the converter's letterbox mode with the Panny's Auto mode (I think it shifts into Wide mode under Auto) but it's not as perfect a fit. I've also noticed some weird horizontal mini gaps in lettering (ex: weather channel temps).


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *THX-1138*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7590#post_22207496
> 
> 
> Records in compressed 4:3, displays in 16:9,


Obviously impossible. A non-DVHS VCR is a 4:3 480i device, and composite/S-video can only deliver 480i. The delivered output from a DVR via composite/S-video is 4:3... even if inside of it is a 16:9 image that's been letterboxed into that 4:3 area.


I'm certain your TV has ZOOM on, so that the letterboxed 4:3 (which is actually 16:9 in aspect ratio) playback is being enlarged by your TV's ZOOM, to fill the 16:9 screen with the postage stamp letterboxed 4:3 recording. The black bars on left/right and top/bottom are simply "Zoom'ed out", but the VCR recording itself must be letterboxed 4:3, since 4:3 images is all that a non-DVHS VCR can record.



> Quote:
> If you can display it, you can record it. Letterbox records as 4:3 letterbox, plays the same.


You can tune to a 720p/1080i HD channel where 16:9 content will display as full-screen 16:9 on a 16:9 HDTV. But if that channel is recorded on a VCR via the composite/S-video cable from the source device, it MUST be (a) downconverted 480i resolution, and (b) letterboxed 4:3 if your device provides that option, or "horizontally squooshed" which is a horrible choice, or 4:3 centercut fullscreen which lops off the right and left "wings" to present the 4:3 "heart" of the 16:9 image but will fill a 4:3 screen completely.


A standard non-DVHS VCR cannot record a true 16:9 image. It is designed to record a 4:3 image.


If what I'm saying is factually wrong, can you point me to some online document or specification for your VCR so that I can read it for myself.


----------



## THX-1138

Of course it's 480i.

That has nothing to do with it.



It works on dvd, vhs, svhs.

It's all transmitted the same.

If it's for a 16:9 display, you are giving up a lot of resolution by recording letterboxed.

Stupid to do for playback on 16:9, though acceptable.

Most things look okay compressed on a 4:3 too, unless it's closeups of faces.


Can you see it on a 4:3 display?

Then you can record it on a vcr.

Feed the same signal to a 16:9 and it's wide.


I have recorded a 1080i signal to a vcr.

That works too, but of course, only records to 400 lines.

Not hidef.


It's the same signal being sent out.

That's why people can use their old 4:3 sets, and you have the display options.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *THX-1138*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7590#post_22208357
> 
> 
> Can you see it on a 4:3 display?
> 
> Then you can record it on a vcr.
> 
> Feed the same signal to a 16:9 and it's wide.


No it's not. Your TV is ZOOM'ing the 4:3 image up to 16:9 for presentation because you've got your 960 set to some ZOOM mode.


If you set the 960's ZOOM control back to "full screen" while feeding it through INPUT1-4 (which are the composite/S-video 480i inputs, which is what I assume you're using for playback from your VCR to the 960) then it will not fill the screen. It will be centered 4:3 image in the 16:9 screen, with black bars on left and right, because that's what a VCR records and plays back... a 4:3 image. Not a 16:9 image.


Full-screen 4:3 (which uses all of the height and width of that 4:3 area), or letterboxed 4:3 (which has black bars on top and bottom but uses the full width of the 4:3 area)... there will be black bars on left and right of the 4:3 image area when presented on a non-ZOOM'ed 16:9 screen.



> Quote:
> I have recorded a 1080i signal to a vcr.


No you haven't.


You've recorded a 16:9 HD 1080i channel playing on your DVR, which has been down-converted to 480i letterboxed 4:3 (so that you could see the entire 16:9 image which is how it showed on the 16:9 HD 1080i channel when watched via component/DVI/HDMI on an HDTV) for output over composite/S-video. The VCR recorded that down-converted 480i letterboxed 4:3 signal as 480i 4:3.



> Quote:
> That works too, but of course, only records to 400 lines.


Well technically it was 480 lines coming from the DVR to the VCR, although the old VHS VCR's didn't even have that much resolution. So 400 lines may be what SVHS recorded at.



> Quote:
> It's the same signal being sent out.


No it's not the 1080i 16:9 program signal that went from cable company to your DVR and then to your HDTV.


It's been downconverted by the DVR to 480i and also letterboxed by the DVR into a 4:3 frame, in order to deliver it out over the composite/S-video cable output for recording by your VCR.



> Quote:
> That's why people can use their old 4:3 sets, and you have the display options.


Yes... the VCR plays can back that letterboxed 4:3 recorded image onto a 4:3 screen via composite/S-video from VCR to the TV. This uses the full width of the 4:3 screen but shows black bars on top and bottom. Send the same signal to a 16:9 TV and it will appear postage stamp, with black bars on left and right of the centered 4:3 image. Zoom that content using the TV's ZOOM and you can blow up that postage stamp in the center to fill the 16:9 screen.


But it's still letterboxed 4:3 delivered at 480i from DVR to the VCR for recording. It's not 16:9, and it's not 1080i, which got recorded.


----------



## THX-1138

I don't have a dvr.

I don't use cable or satellite.

I use bunny ears and netflix.


I can tell the difference between letterbox and full screen anamorphic.


I have only used component feed for my 34", but it makes no difference on my HS 4:3 sony, all inputs display the same.

To be clear, I have not used a vcr with my 960, only dvd.

I use an XBR-34800 for svhs and vhs.


Do you think the 960 has some automatic flagging that prevents it showing the native display from a vcr?

I have heard of some similar issues with a a digital tuner pana, but those can be bypassed.

I routinely use my pana to play tapes in 16:9, or letterboxed.

Either work, of course.

I never touch the sizing on the tv, unless I want to zoom a letterboxed image.


I really don't understand what you're having difficulty with.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *THX-1138*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7590#post_22208441
> 
> 
> I don't have a dvr.
> 
> I don't use cable or satellite.
> 
> I use bunny ears and netflix.
> 
> I can tell the difference between letterbox and full screen anamorphic.
> 
> I have only used component feed for my 34", but it makes no difference on my HS 4:3 sony, all inputs display the same.
> 
> To be clear, I have not used a vcr with my 960, only dvd.
> 
> I use an XBR-34800 for svhs and vhs.


I don't want to distract from the topic of this thread, but we need to start over. You need to enumerate exactly what equipment you have, manufacturer and model. I thought you had cable, but you don't. I thought you had a VCR, but you don't.


So what are you "recording 1080i" on?? A recordable DVD burner/player? And since you don't have cable but only a rabbit ear antenna, you must be recording directly off of the air local network channels... to what must be a recordable DVD burner/player (Panasonic?).


The new recordable DVD burner/player devices are worlds different from the old VCRs. They are capable of recording 16:9, whereas VCR's only recorded 4:3.


Therefore everything I've been describing as it relates to a VCR and cable company DVR delivering 480i 4:3 content over composite/S-video to a VCR for recording is apparently unrelated to your actual equipment which doesn't include a VCR as I thought you were describing. What I've been saying is certainly true and correct... if entirely inapplicable to what your setup actually consists of.


----------



## THX-1138

I am only referring to vcr use.

I have numerous decks in mostly svhs.


I mentioned recording from a 1080i source to demonstrate that even that signal makes no difference.

As I said, it records in 480i.

It displays exactly the same as the 1080i signal direct, or a lodef tuner.

My hidef outboard tuners are LG.

I mostly use TRT lodef tuners.


None of it makes any difference.

They record what is fed to them.


Most of the JVC vcrs have only S-video out.

Component on some panas.


----------



## Floydage

Sounds like the converter box mode they call 16:9, squeezed, etc. The 'overall' image is 4:3 as that's all they're capable of but the 16:9 is compressed so that it works with a widescreen TV (i.e. not all had DTV tuners so I guess the gov't covered all bases in the requirements). I despised that mode and didn't understand the use of it until I got a widescreen TV - lol.


Were there VCRs with component output? (if so, SVHS I presume).


----------



## THX-1138

Same output from my hidef tuners.


Mostly svhs, but my combo panas are just vhs.


I have a few pana svhs separates.

I'll have to check those.


----------



## THX-1138

Can't edit.


There are some higher end vhs editing decks with component.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swing1951*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7590#post_22206603
> 
> 
> Hello, all. I've wanted one of these sets for several years, based on this thread (most of which I've read--yow) and the many glowing reviews online. I finally obtained one about a month ago via Craig's List in Eugene, Oregon. Having always been a patron of excellence, or one who aspired to same, I am very, very happy. The viewing experience is at least as fine as what I view on a Panasonic plasma, the TC-P65S1, purchased in 2009, not a great TV but quite a good one. I think the 960's performance is probably superior in some ways. I now watch it almost exclusively.
> 
> This Sony with the SFP pic tube truly is the Cadillac of TVs still, in more ways than one: they are excellent of their kind, constructed of (mostly) high end components and parts, are wonderful to behold and operate, have a jillion bells and whistles, and have a resale value that is bad for people who want to sell them, great for others who want to buy them. They're practically giving them away.
> 
> I can't say that I'm blown away or that it's like looking out a window, but I am very impressed. The XBR960 is truly a splendid TV, a classic, with superb...nearly everything.
> 
> The geometry issues can be annoying for one, such as myself, who is anal retentive about such things. It obviously has never had a magnet job and the downward (or upward) bowing of some straight lines (yes, primarily horizontal) is a little irritating but not what I would describe as atrocious. And it has the usual slight convergence issues on the bottom and top edges mostly, primarily evident in the infamous upper right hand corner. Probably wouldn't even be noticeable if I weren't used to watching a plasma with its perfect geometry and convergence. The audio, while not great by any means, is pretty good for a TV, greatly enhanced by the supplementation of a subwoofer, plugged into one of the audio outs in the back of the set.
> 
> Otherwise, my new (to me) XBR960 is a diamond, living up to its extensive adulation and legendary status. The resolution, color, blacks, pictorial "depth" (for lack of a better term), clarity, overall impact--it's all superb, stunning, as reported, even on the better SD channels. Best $100 bucks I ever spent.
> 
> I've fiddled around in the service menu as much as I've dared and have managed to improve some things, especially the overscan problem.
> 
> Thanks, you guys, for all the great tips, hints, commentary, et al of many years running now. Special thanks to DSperber, KenTech and Joseph D. for their knowledge and enthusiasm. I've joined the party very late but I certainly am enjoying it.
> 
> Manufactured in May 2005, by the way. It's held up wonderfully well.



Hi Swing,


Congratulations on your new seven year old 960.


Truly appreciate all the words you had to say about it because you are a new owner and can be a bit more objective than us older ones who no doubt have already built up an emotional bias!


----------



## jameslieb1

hey guys i recently bought one of these off craigslist for gaming, i disabled hdpt in the service menu to get rid of input lag for xbox 360. while the input lag went away, a couple new problems arose. when im playing with hdpt off, the camera seems two far to the right - part of the left end of the screen is chopped off. theres also a vertical scan bar that moves slowly across the screen constantly, i can see thru it of course but its still annoying. also the picture seems to fluncuate when motion occurs onscreen, the brightness or contrast seems to flicker. its hard to explain but anyway thats the situation im in. anyone have any tips as to how to get rid of these quirks?


edit: i managed to get the picture position right. but i still need help with the flunctuating picture and the scrolling bar.


----------



## swing1951

Thank you, Joseph, for the cordial welcome to this Johnny-come-lately. Wotta TV. I'm enjoying it so much after getting hung up in the service menu for the first few weeks, adjusting, tweaking, fiddling, fiddling, fiddling. I finally quit worrying about the geometry and convergence and just began thoroughly enjoying this marvelous instrument, doubtless the best consumer CRT ever made. EVER.


The image is, as you observed, very film-like with saturated color (but not too much so) with great clarity (whatever the correct tech term might be)--very crisp yet smooth as can be. One can sit a foot away and the resolution is astounding. Even on the SD channels (via Comcast) the quality is exceptional--that DRC thing, I guess, among other enhancements, blowing most skinny TVs, LCD, LED, plasma, out of the water. I am entranced, spend entirely too much time in front of the XBR960 in my bedroom.


Don't be afraid to remove that nasty and unnecessary anti-glare screen. After about a week of putting up with a badly smudged, worn and scratched surface (actually not noticeable whilst the TV was playing but very apparent when the set was turned off, bugging me in any case 'cause I knew it was there), I peeled the damn thing off. I must confess that I performed the alteration in a half-a--ed manner that would not be approved by purists-- X-acto knife, slicing it up, down, across and around and then peeling it off in portions, finally removing the remaining glue from the glass with Windex, paper towels and a lotta elbow grease. Forgive me. But I took the back off (about 98 screws), gazed upon the innards and determined that there was no way in heck that I was going to further disassemble this monster and/or risk electrocution. The numerous potential disastrous complications were too daunting for me. I screwed the cover back on and proceeded with the X-acto blade method,


For me there was no impairment or degradation of the image whatsoever, just the opposite, in fact. What I view, as the result of the removal of that anti-glare screen, a layer of smeary, smudgy fog, is pristinely clear, vibrant, beautiful, with no loss of black level and not overwhelming brightness. It definitely looks better (and it was fine before). And the glass surface of the SFP tube is immaculate, like new. I honestly don't think it needs to be recalibrated.


So, if one can stand the idea of removing the AG screen in a somewhat Mickey Mouse manner, go for it. I'm very happy I did.


Have a good one.


----------



## Floydage

Long ago I worked for a car window tinter and I think he used Pinesol to get the glue off (plus razor blade).


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi Swing,


Glad you're loving it and thanks for the tip about the coating. I would never attempt to do anything near what you did or use anything that could actually cause a scratch - I just wish I knew what I did to get those smudges in the first place so I can simply continue repeating my mistakes!










If any technician is monitoring this conversation, would appreciate what steps a layman can take to safely get the coating off - if there is any.


Joe


----------



## Floydage

I saw it on AVS somewhere, very possibly this thread although there are some other similar Sony models/threads. Pics and everything. Try an intra-AVS search.


----------



## jameslieb1

Can anyone tell me what changes need to be made to the service menu to disable ALL extra signal processing for component cables, 1080i? I play Xbox 360 on this TV but I notice some input lag. Help is very much appreciated.


----------



## RWetmore

If anyone wants it, I'm giving away my XBR960. I'm moving and cannot take it with me. All you have to do is come get it. I've had it calibrated by Chad. B. twice and I bought it new in 2006. I also removed the antiglare coating. PM me if interested. I'm not sure if it's appropriate to offer something like this on the board. Moderators please delete if not and/or advise me where on AVS it is appropriate (if it is appropriate anywhere).


Edit: TV is now taken and no longer available.


----------



## 8086

I posted a picture of the rear panel some years ago. Search this thread for my name. You will find it.


----------



## SAVETHEXBR960

Is there anyway to fix blemishes on the bezel? Got another one of these beauties, already removed the anti-reflective coating, but there are 2 marks on the top bezel. I would like to touch them up, if at all possible. They're not very deep, but about 1 inch across, looks like they were caused by rubbing on a dolly.


----------



## Walking Beast

I just got another 960 today. My last model was some years ago but broke. From what I remember it had the best picture that I had seen. Im not sure what im seeing exactly on this set though. Maybe its called convergence. It looks like the images arent perfectly alligned and I see some blur over all the objects. Im using it for gaming. Can this be fixed in the service menus? Ive never done this before so any tips would be greatly appreciated.


This tv also wont accept my ps3 over hdmi for some reason. The model i had of this tv in the past did accept hdmi on the ps3. The hdmi works on the 360 however.


Also I noticed that the image is cut off in places. Part of the top , right and bottom seem to be cut off. These are the main issues so far. Im hoping they can be resolved. The tv has been idle for years so maybe thats it.


----------



## homerging




> Quote:
> Im not sure what im seeing exactly on this set though. Maybe its called convergence. It looks like the images arent perfectly alligned and I see some blur over all the objects. Im using it for gaming. Can this be fixed in the service menus? Ive never done this before so any tips would be greatly appreciated.


The best tip is to understand things as well as possible and not blunder in and wreck the TV. It's important in the service menu to write down the original settings before changing anything and never do a "factory reset".


There should be alot of information in the service codes thread about focus, landing and convergence and in this one too
http://www.avsforum.com/t/531494/the-sony-service-codes-articles-comments-discoveries/ 
http://www.avsforum.com/t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7000#post_18503346 

As you can see it _might_ be necessary to adjust the focus on the FBT. There is lethal voltage inside the TV so that isn't to be undertaken lightly.


The 960's service manual is here which should help you better understand the TV
http://www.schematicsforfree.com/archive/dir/Sony/Video 


> Quote:
> This tv also wont accept my ps3 over hdmi for some reason. The model i had of this tv in the past did accept hdmi on the ps3. The hdmi works on the 360 however.


That's odd. Possibly there is some kind of compatibility issue going on which sometimes happens with early HDMI devices. Sometimes intermediation devices can solve that problem. Does the PS3 require HDCP over HDMI? I've heard of HDCP breaking on the HDMI card before but I don't think that's likely.


If you can use YPbPr, that will do. The Sony CRTs have no native support for HDMI as they just use an internal HDMI card to convert to analogue which is converted back to digital again. Plugging in through YPbPr analogue should give slightly better quality so long as no HDCP downscaling issues are present.


> Quote:
> Also I noticed that the image is cut off in places. Part of the top , right and bottom seem to be cut off. These are the main issues so far. Im hoping they can be resolved. The tv has been idle for years so maybe thats it.


That will be overscan. It is correctable in the service menu.


Removing the red push also makes a big difference to the picture
http://www.avsforum.com/t/531494/the-sony-service-codes-articles-comments-discoveries#post_5504091 


If you can find a competent professional calibrator who really knows what they're doing with CRTs they could do all this for you and more. Most calibrators wouldn't know what to do with a 960, though.
*Edit* - what resolution do you have your PS3 set to? The Sony CRTs won't accept 1080p so try 720p and 1080i and see if that makes a difference. It should automatically detect the unavailability of 1080p but things can go wrong.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Walking Beast*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7590#post_22438564
> 
> 
> I just got another 960 today. My last model was some years ago but broke. From what I remember it had the best picture that I had seen. Im not sure what im seeing exactly on this set though. Maybe its called convergence. It looks like the images arent perfectly aligned and I see some blur over all the objects. Im using it for gaming. Can this be fixed in the service menus? Ive never done this before so any tips would be greatly appreciated.


As you surely know, with over 7600 posts in this thread there's lots that been discussed over the years about the 960. I, myself, have added my own comments many times, starting from my purchase of a brand new 960 in 2004.


Every set is different, because these are analog sets based around picture tubes... and magnets applied at the factory to those tubes, producing obviously individual and unique results in each one.


So trying to use somebody else's service/user menu settings isn't guaranteed to duplicate results, since the analog hardware itself is obviously going to be different in your case than it was in the other owner's case.


Your best bet is to try and read comments in this 960 thread, and comments in the other "Sony Service Menu Codes" thread, where effectively all the relevant and useful knowledge on the subject that's known to man has been concentrated. You will at least learn how to get into the service menu, and what items control what... although there are MANY.


What is important is that there is a specific collection of "most important" service menu items relating to color and convergence, and overscan and picture size, which is where most of us have spent time tweaking. And if you start with a "spreadsheet" of your current values (so that you can always go back to them if you don't like what you've produced with any tweaks you try), you'll be learning by experience... which is how most of us got into this.


If you look at this old thread of mine from a few years back , there is a spreadsheet ZIP file attached at the bottom, which shows MY settings on MY 960. But then I had a "magnet job" on the picture tube shortly after I got my set in 2004, because it was simply unacceptable as delivered from the factory (curvature, bowing, convergence problems, etc.). So my service menu values obviously are applied on top of the hardware "magnet job" for my unique set, and may well not really be usable for other 960's.


Nevertheless, you can at least use my spreadsheet and use it to enter your own values... just to get you started.


----------



## Walking Beast




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *homerging*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7590#post_22442326
> 
> 
> The best tip is to understand things as well as possible and not blunder in and wreck the TV. It's important in the service menu to write down the original settings before changing anything and never do a "factory reset".
> 
> There should be alot of information in the service codes thread about focus, landing and convergence and in this one too
> http://www.avsforum.com/t/531494/the-sony-service-codes-articles-comments-discoveries/
> http://www.avsforum.com/t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7000#post_18503346
> 
> As you can see it _might_ be necessary to adjust the focus on the FBT. There is lethal voltage inside the TV so that isn't to be undertaken lightly.
> 
> The 960's service manual is here which should help you better understand the TV
> http://www.schematicsforfree.com/archive/dir/Sony/Video
> 
> That's odd. Possibly there is some kind of compatibility issue going on which sometimes happens with early HDMI devices. Sometimes intermediation devices can solve that problem. Does the PS3 require HDCP over HDMI? I've heard of HDCP breaking on the HDMI card before but I don't think that's likely.
> 
> If you can use YPbPr, that will do. The Sony CRTs have no native support for HDMI as they just use an internal HDMI card to convert to analogue which is converted back to digital again. Plugging in through YPbPr analogue should give slightly better quality so long as no HDCP downscaling issues are present.
> 
> That will be overscan. It is correctable in the service menu.
> 
> Removing the red push also makes a big difference to the picture
> http://www.avsforum.com/t/531494/the-sony-service-codes-articles-comments-discoveries#post_5504091
> 
> If you can find a competent professional calibrator who really knows what they're doing with CRTs they could do all this for you and more. Most calibrators wouldn't know what to do with a 960, though.
> *Edit* - what resolution do you have your PS3 set to? The Sony CRTs won't accept 1080p so try 720p and 1080i and see if that makes a difference. It should automatically detect the unavailability of 1080p but things can go wrong.




Thank you for the very detailed information. Much appreciated. I figured out the HDMI issue i was having with the ps3. I just needed to set the ps3 to not accept 1080p. Having 1080p checked was causing no picture to be shown. So I changed the settings on my plasma first then plugged it into the crt and now it works.


Yes Ive checked Kens service menu thread and have it bookmarked. I am a picture quality freak but have no real technical knowledge. Aside from tweaking in the use menus Ive never used a service menu before. But I plan to attempt it soon and learn what I can.


Good info about the YBCR connectors. I didnt realise they would give a better picture. I assumed HDMI would be superior so I hooked both up to HDMI. I can pick up some component cables and try those.


I have a cheap ps2 component cable. Would that be good enough? Or should I get something higher quality and intended for ps3.


Thanks again


----------



## Walking Beast




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7590#post_22442648
> 
> 
> As you surely know, with over 7600 posts in this thread there's lots that been discussed over the years about the 960. I, myself, have added my own comments many times, starting from my purchase of a brand new 960 in 2004.
> 
> Every set is different, because these are analog sets based around picture tubes... and magnets applied at the factory to those tubes, producing obviously individual and unique results in each one.
> 
> So trying to use somebody else's service/user menu settings isn't guaranteed to duplicate results, since the analog hardware itself is obviously going to be different in your case than it was in the other owner's case.
> 
> Your best bet is to try and read comments in this 960 thread, and comments in the other "Sony Service Menu Codes" thread, where effectively all the relevant and useful knowledge on the subject that's known to man has been concentrated. You will at least learn how to get into the service menu, and what items control what... although there are MANY.
> 
> What is important is that there is a specific collection of "most important" service menu items relating to color and convergence, and overscan and picture size, which is where most of us have spent time tweaking. And if you start with a "spreadsheet" of your current values (so that you can always go back to them if you don't like what you've produced with any tweaks you try), you'll be learning by experience... which is how most of us got into this.
> 
> If you look at this old thread of mine from a few years back , there is a spreadsheet ZIP file attached at the bottom, which shows MY settings on MY 960. But then I had a "magnet job" on the picture tube shortly after I got my set in 2004, because it was simply unacceptable as delivered from the factory (curvature, bowing, convergence problems, etc.). So my service menu values obviously are applied on top of the hardware "magnet job" for my unique set, and may well not really be usable for other 960's.
> 
> Nevertheless, you can at least use my spreadsheet and use it to enter your own values... just to get you started.



Thanks alot. Its very interesting to see that you got one from the factory with blur and bowing, etc. I got mine used. The guy said it only has 6 hours use. I thought maybe from sitting around unused it degraded. Or maybe it was damaged. But it seems this is the norm for these tvs. I guess I got lucky with my first one. I only noticed these issues around some of the edges. Some blur and distortion. This one has it to varying degrees in all parts of the picture it seems. Also theres a red shadow that appears off certain images. Maybe thats the red push you mentioned.


maybe its not possible for these tvs to be as sharp as i thought. I do remember my old 960 blowing away plasma. The new gt panasonic plasma is quite good though. It just doesnt handle all content consistantly like a crt.


Thanks again for the help. I will check your sheet. Im in the process now of trying to learn before I mess around. Also my crt is currently on the floor and im looking down at it. I havent seen it at eye level yet. I need a table.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Walking Beast*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7590#post_22447991
> 
> 
> Also theres a red shadow that appears off certain images. Maybe thats the red push you mentioned.


No... "red push" is the term used to describe what skin tone looks like, when it is redder rather normal skin tone looks like on a properly adjusted set (CRT or LCD). The flesh color is what tips you off that your color needs adjustment or not.


As often documented (and even mentioned in my spreadsheet, referenced in my previous post) there are four particular color-related settings in the 960's service menu that simply produce that unnatural look to skin, which needs to be "toned down" to make it look truly human-like.



> Quote:
> maybe its not possible for these tvs to be as sharp as i thought. I do remember my old 960 blowing away plasma.


It's analog, so it will have that uniquely "analog look" which is really distinctly different than a pixel-based display. How easy it is to see, or how bothersome it is, depends on what you're viewing. I would describe CRT's as "more film-like", which I prefer.


As far as "sharpness", again that's kind of an imprecise term. Actually it's usually recommended that you turn SHARPNESS down to zero/minimum in the user menu, as anything non-zero is actually a digitally added edge-enhancement. Some people prefer that, I do not. I prefer the "pure" look of a zero sharpness setting (as part of my whole PRO setup, which is what you should start from as it disables all factory pre-set bias settings which you see in MOVIE, VIVID, etc.)


----------



## Walking Beast




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7620#post_22448120
> 
> 
> No... "red push" is the term used to describe what skin tone looks like, when it is redder rather normal skin tone looks like on a properly adjusted set (CRT or LCD). The flesh color is what tips you off that your color needs adjustment or not.
> 
> As often documented (and even mentioned in my spreadsheet, referenced in my previous post) there are four particular color-related settings in the 960's service menu that simply produce that unnatural look to skin, which needs to be "toned down" to make it look truly human-like.
> 
> It's analog, so it will have that uniquely "analog look" which is really distinctly different than a pixel-based display. How easy it is to see, or how bothersome it is, depends on what you're viewing. I would describe CRT's as "more film-like", which I prefer.
> 
> As far as "sharpness", again that's kind of an imprecise term. Actually it's usually recommended that you turn SHARPNESS down to zero/minimum in the user menu, as anything non-zero is actually a digitally added edge-enhancement. Some people prefer that, I do not. I prefer the "pure" look of a zero sharpness setting (as part of my whole PRO setup, which is what you should start from as it disables all factory pre-set bias settings which you see in MOVIE, VIVID, etc.)



Ok I thought you might have been referring to that. I noticed in monitor mode it fixes this, as far as I can see, however the colors get duller all around as well. So I prefer pro mode with the color maxed, brightness maxed and contrast maxed. Ive always run it like this for gaming. I wont be using for movies. The plasma handles blu rays great and many of the high quality newer games. Some of the newer games are not programmed as well and do not look as good on the plasma. The CRT really succeeds as the great equalizer among all content. The new tvs are just not competent enough for picture quality freaks such as myself who still play a wide range of games. From the earliest to the newest. Though the new gt50 plasma has extremely good black levels over my 2010 G20 model. The black levels are top notch. Reminding me ALOT of crt look. The dithering (image static noise) is much reduced as well. I dont even notice it all the time like I did with the G20. It depends on the areas in games or the quality of certain areas in the game it seems. I sit 4 feet from my tvs. Including the new 55 plasma so defects will show easily. The plasma has an issue with clayface or an oil painting look on the textures for ps3 games only, so for many games I would rather use the CRT despite the 20 inch size difference. Picture quality is supreme for me. The 360 doesnt have this issue because apparently it has a very good upscaler built into the system where the ps3 has a very poor one. Since my plasma doesnt upscale its an issue. CRT I dont know if they do, but everything always looks superior on them. Maybe its thier multi resolution handling.


I am working on a set up that utilises both the crt and the plasma. The plasma will slide down in front of the crt, the crt will move back and forth on a track. So I will be able to switch displays for any content and use the display that suits it best. I will also have splitters to split the video wires for both displays. The CRT is still my favorite display technology and is superior to anything ive seen yet. Overall. Maybe its the screen but theres a glossy look to the crt image that I love. The image quality, contrast and motion handling is understood.


I prefer CRT as well I just wish they were made with larger screens. The 34 inch is very immersive up close but it could have used 15 or 20 more inches to give me a fuller effect. Though i was extremely satisfied when used as my main display in the past for gaming. Size was the only thing I wanted more of with the tv really.


Yes sharpness I set to zero on both tvs. I dont like the extra grain or lines it seems to bring up. I will have to check on the red push and see if it can be minimized. It doesnt really bother me now at all because I am using it for gaming only. I prefer a very high contrast colorful image over realistic and accurate. For movies though I do like the thx settings on the new plasma better then my custom game settings. Those are horrible for movies. And some games I find perform better with thx on the plasma.


THanks again


----------



## Floydage

Indeed to backing off sharpness. Some 'noise' becomes more evident due to sharpness to the best of my knowledge. I especially see an improvement with sharpness backed off when using a VCR.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Walking Beast*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7620#post_22448678
> 
> 
> I prefer CRT as well I just wish they were made with larger screens. The 34 inch is very immersive up close but it could have used 15 or 20 more inches to give me a fuller effect. Though i was extremely satisfied when used as my main display in the past for gaming. Size was the only thing I wanted more of with the tv really.


They had effectively reached the physical maximum of flat-screen CRT tube manufacture with that 34". Anything larger in a flat-screen and they either (a) couldn't have physically produced it, or (b) it would have risked IMPLOSION because of structural stresses.


The largest CRT HDTV that I believe was ever made was the 38" RCA 16x9, which was one of the sets I considered back in 2004 when my Sampo SME-34WHD5 picture tube died (and they'd stop selling them in this country). But the 38" 16x9 RCA tube was "cheated" in its design in order to fight off air pressure against the internal vacuum, as it had a curved front, not a flat-screen design like the 34" Sony 960 SFP tube. The two pictures simply did not look the same, with the 34" Sony flat-screen being the absolute obvious winner.


----------



## THX-1138

There is the 40" hidef sony which looks quite good, though not to the 960 standards.


I think there were a number of exotic crts at exotic prices as well.


----------



## Walking Beast

ThanX all. Its good to see others who have stuck with this tech and still love it as I do, despite my lack of technical knowledge, I know what looks good to my eye. Even with my 55 gt plasma as my main display at the moment, I stil find the CRT to be an amazing piece of technology and that machine brought me hundreds of great hours gaming. The immersion was like nothing else for me. I need to get it set up at eye level and do some more tweaking and then think that feeling will come back again.


Right now its on the floor in the other room and i am sitting above it in my office chair. So its not the same looking down on it, but again Im feeling the magic with the display again.


I was unable to enjoy modern flat screens after this set. The GT plasma is finally closing that gap for me but the crt is an incredible display and one that I plan to have in my set up for as long as it lasts. Aside from the superior image quality of any tv made, it has the ability to run multiple resolutions as if it was designed for each one. It compliments the plasma perfectly, for some of the games that do not look good on the plasma.


Yes I dont like high sharpness. Too much grain from what I can see.


----------



## Walking Beast

Very interesting about the larger displays. I was tempted to try a aconda by lowe recently since it was 38 inches. However I saw it was missing alot of inputs and also the curved screen was a deal killer for me. Aside from that I had my doubts that it could match the PQ of the sony. Four inches is not enough to risk it for me. These things are not easy to test and return.


I know there was a 40 inch 4:3 HD CRT by sony. I dont like black bars however so I didnt want to go that route. It would be great for the old games that run in 4:3, however I have a 55 that handles those incredibly well and in widescreen. The stretching on the old games is not really noticable. Im talking 8 and 16 bit games. The black contrast on the new plasma looks incredible with all the old games. I am playing these old games through my pc on emulation with graphics filters to be clear. Using a sega saturn controller.


My only issue with the xbr960 was the lack of size. I almost went with the 970 but then did my research and realised that the 960 was the one I actually owned, and remembered actually returning the 970 before it shipped out due to reading that the 960 has the fine pinch grill. Knowing me i would likely notice some difference at my 4 foot distance.


The geometry and overscan are definite issues too, but on my first set I didnt notice much of it. Only really around some of the edges. I originally purchased a 36 inch 4:3 HD tv by sony. In preparation for the upcoming (then) next gen HD consoles. Then I realised that true HD is shown in widescreen only. So I was left playing them on 28 inches of screen space with black bars which meant it was time to get the 34 wide screen, which I would have gotten had I known.


----------



## Floydage

BTW on red push, at least on my Panny 34" WS HD, I have that issue on s-video, composite, and RF but not on component (no DVI or HDMI inputs). Wonder if ya'll see the same thing on the 960? (+HDMI)


----------



## homerging




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Walking Beast*
> 
> I have a cheap ps2 component cable. Would that be good enough? Or should I get something higher quality and intended for ps3.


For short cable runs if it already works a new set of cables is unlikely to make much difference unless the current cables are the cheapest and nastiest things out there.


> Quote:
> I got mine used. The guy said it only has 6 hours use. I thought maybe from sitting around unused it degraded. Or maybe it was damaged. But it seems this is the norm for these tvs. I guess I got lucky with my first one. I only noticed these issues around some of the edges. Some blur and distortion. This one has it to varying degrees in all parts of the picture it seems. Also theres a red shadow that appears off certain images. Maybe thats the red push you mentioned.


I think in the service menu there may be a string of numbers at the top right that are in hexadecimal and converting them would show the number of hours the TV has operated for.


I wouldn't turn the brightness up all the way, you'll find it severely washes out quickly past the mid line.


By default these TVs distort parts of the colour spectrum to make them more vivid. It gives a red sheen over the picture that isn't noticeable until it's gone. The RYR, RYB, GYR, GYB, 2170P-4 settings look like they're global for the 960, although there is mention of a "special axis" in the service menu which might cover a specific picture mode. 14-15-6-4 respectively are what I thought were best.


----------



## salty

I'd love to know if the service menu held the information on the operating time of the TV, as the previous post indicated this might be possible. Does anyone know if this is actually so?


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *homerging*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7620#post_22457648
> 
> 
> By default these TVs distort parts of the colour spectrum to make them more vivid.



Yeah I read somewhere, maybe in a CNET review, that mfgers purposely set them like that to make the color stand out in their sets in the showroom.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7620#post_22458186
> 
> 
> Yeah I read somewhere, maybe in a CNET review, that mfgers purposely set them like that to make the color stand out in their sets in the showroom.


This is "VIVID" (sometimes called "torch mode"), which is simply a preset to allow the set to look better in the retail store environment where fluorescent lights or broad daylight might normally make the sets look washed out. VIVID counteracts that and therefore the picture looks more intense and attractive even in bright light. More color saturation, more brightness and contrast, etc.


But it's just a preset. No serious 960 owner runs VIVID at home, in a dark viewing environment. That's why first going to PRO is how all of the "tweak threads" start off, because PRO is simply the ABSENCE OF ANY FACTORY BIAS on the various controls. Everything is "flat", which is why initially PRO looks so very much different, and initially unappealing.


But it's from this initial PRO "flat" starting point that you then begin to adjust (in that darkened viewing environment) with proper reference patterns, until you're looking at "stunning perfection" with gorgeous color. You won't be "flat" any longer, but you also won't be at VIVID extremes.


----------



## Gecko85

I have a question about adjusting the screen. The left side of the picture is cut off a bit. Happens on all devices (Tivo, Apple TV, etc.) For example, this is the way the Apple TV menu should look (and how it does look when hooked up to my LCD tv):

 


On my Sony, though, the left side of the screen starts right up against the left-most boxes, actually cutting part of them off (including cutting off the first part of the "R" in the word "Rented" at the top...)


I've gone into the service menu and tried adjusting HPOS and HSIZ (both of which are in CXA2170D-2) to no avail. HPOS moves the entire picture left or right, but doesn't reveal the cut off part on the left. Everything, cut off and all, just shifts to the right. HSIZ stretches the existing picture in or out, but also doesn't reveal the part that's being cut off.


I'm sure there's a setting in there somewhere to shift the actual content over to the right, revealing the part that's currently cut off, but I don't know what that would be.


Any suggestions?


Thanks.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Gecko85*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7620#post_22462492
> 
> 
> I have a question about adjusting the screen. The left side of the picture is cut off a bit. Happens on all devices (Tivo, Apple TV, etc.)
> 
> 
> On my Sony, though, the left side of the screen starts right up against the left-most boxes, actually cutting part of them off (including cutting off the first part of the "R" in the word "Rented" at the top...)
> 
> 
> I've gone into the service menu and tried adjusting HPOS and HSIZ (both of which are in CXA2170D-2) to no avail. HPOS moves the entire picture left or right, but doesn't reveal the cut off part on the left. Everything, cut off and all, just shifts to the right. HSIZ stretches the existing picture in or out, but also doesn't reveal the part that's being cut off.
> 
> I'm sure there's a setting in there somewhere to shift the actual content over to the right, revealing the part that's currently cut off, but I don't know what that would be.
> 
> Any suggestions?


The real discussion on "tweaks" can be found in the main thread on "Sony Service Codes" . Of course that's got about 3000 posts starting back in 2005. So it will take a little searching and reading to find what you want.


But here is a quote from one of my own posts in that thread , on the subject of your question... namely how to adjust the picture so that it has the correct height and width, as well as being centered properly on the screen.


The key is that there are TWO sets of controls, much like you have in Photoshop.
You adjust the "possible maximum image size", both horizontally and vertically, by increasing the "canvas size" (which is like the background on top of which the actual image is then presented) to fill the screen. This uses VPOS and VSIZ in 2170D-1, and HPOS and HSIZ in 2170D-2.
Then you play with the "actual image size" presented on top of the "canvas". This uses VDHP, VDHS, VDVE and VDVS in the MID3 group.


====================================================================


Assuming you're into the service menu (and are familiar with how it is entered, used, saved, and exited), the primary recipe approach i
kd-34xbr960.zip 33k .zip files fundamentally twofold: (1) use the VPOS and VSIZ items in the 2170D-1 group, and the HPOS and HSIZ items in the 2170D-2 service menu group, to adjust the "background raster" (aka "canvas") in both horizontal and vertical directions. Then (2) in the MID3 group you use 0 (VDHP horizontal position), 1 (VDHS horizontal size), 2 (VDVE vertical position) and 3 (VDVS vertical size) to manipulate the 1080i/720p "image" on top of the "background" (i.e. within the "background raster").


2170D-1 and 2170D-2 are used to adjust the "canvas" to reach to the physical edges of the screen, so that the image then placed on top of it can utilize all available screen real estate. MID3 is used for the 1080i and 720p image size and placement adjustments, within the background raster area set by 2170D-1 and 2170D-2. You position and size the image over the background so that it is fully visible and reaches to the extreme edges of the background for 0% overscan. Then you enlarge it just a bit more in all four directions (using the test pattern on your screen as the guide) to "crop" out the video noise which you may see at 0% overscan, losing perhaps 1-2% of the image in this final "overscan" adjustment.


As you get into each part of the adjustments, clicking up or down one unit at a time so that you see the precise results of your tweak, you focus on getting the extreme outer edge of the test pattern rectangle visible on your screen. When you're done (at 0% overscan), the complete rectangle should be totally visible on all four sides. No wasted screen, and nothing eliminated (at 0% overscan).


There is an assumption that you have a proper 16:9 overscan test pattern on your screen, the best of which can be found attached to this post which if you can connect your PC to your HDTV is ideal. If you have a video card like ATI Radeon 9800 Pro, it has a second DVI head and you can connect it to your Sony with a DVI-to-HDMI cable setup. Or, you can get the ATI DVI-to-component adapter and connect the second head to your Sony with component video cables.


Otherwise, you can use Avia or DVE DVD's to display geometry and overscan test patterns, though at 480p. Using DVE, you can go to Title 12 (Display Setup Patterns) and then Chapter 17 (1:33 overscan pattern), with the latter "spread" to 16:9 by the MODE button on your remote.


"Blow-by-blow" as well as instructions for service menu entry, exit and use, can be found in this post .


A bit more editorializing can be found in this post 


Hope this helps.


============================================================


----------



## Gecko85

Exactly what I was looking for, thanks. And sorry about posting in the wrong thread - didn't see the other one.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Walking Beast*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7590#post_22447991
> 
> 
> Thanks alot. Its very interesting to see that you got one from the factory with blur and bowing, etc. I got mine used. The guy said it only has 6 hours use. I thought maybe from sitting around unused it degraded. Or maybe it was damaged. But it seems this is the norm for these tvs. I guess I got lucky with my first one. I only noticed these issues around some of the edges. Some blur and distortion. This one has it to varying degrees in all parts of the picture it seems. Also theres a red shadow that appears off certain images. Maybe thats the red push you mentioned.
> 
> maybe its not possible for these tvs to be as sharp as i thought. I do remember my old 960 blowing away plasma. The new gt panasonic plasma is quite good though. It just doesnt handle all content consistantly like a crt.
> 
> Thanks again for the help. I will check your sheet. Im in the process now of trying to learn before I mess around. Also my crt is currently on the floor and im looking down at it. I havent seen it at eye level yet. I need a table.



Hi,


When I got my 960 back in August of 2005 eventually I became aware that the overscan and geometry were among many user settings that were poorly adjusted at the factory. I too used the spreadsheets printed here with the suggested settings, writing down the original factory settings I had as well. It took a few times to finally get it to what i felt was correct, since changing one could easily effect another.


At the time I had the old HD test patterns from the old INHD which was vital. Suggest before making any tweaks to get one of the HD set up discs to help - they are better than the built in test patterns in the service menu which one has to be careful with - it took me forever until figuring out how to get them off screen (and keep the volume at zero). In fact, the the geometry pattern was completely useless.


Good luck.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7620#post_22448120
> 
> 
> No... "red push" is the term used to describe what skin tone looks like, when it is redder rather normal skin tone looks like on a properly adjusted set (CRT or LCD). The flesh color is what tips you off that your color needs adjustment or not.
> 
> As often documented (and even mentioned in my spreadsheet, referenced in my previous post) there are four particular color-related settings in the 960's service menu that simply produce that unnatural look to skin, which needs to be "toned down" to make it look truly human-like.
> 
> It's analog, so it will have that uniquely "analog look" which is really distinctly different than a pixel-based display. How easy it is to see, or how bothersome it is, depends on what you're viewing. I would describe CRT's as "more film-like", which I prefer.
> 
> As far as "sharpness", again that's kind of an imprecise term. Actually it's usually recommended that you turn SHARPNESS down to zero/minimum in the user menu, as anything non-zero is actually a digitally added edge-enhancement. Some people prefer that, I do not. I prefer the "pure" look of a zero sharpness setting (as part of my whole PRO setup, which is what you should start from as it disables all factory pre-set bias settings which you see in MOVIE, VIVID, etc.)



Hi DSperber,


Been a long time since we last spoke.


I agree with you that the CRT picture looks different than the flat screens but to me it's less a film like and more of a life-like type picture. On live video it appears as if one is looking through a window - very lifelike and natural - compared to LCD (which I also own) which I find gives an image as if it is on pastel screen. There is also a depth to the picture instead of every object one top of each other.


My only regret is like with so many, the coating has come off in various places on the screen. It is, fortunately, completely un-noticible when lights are on behind the set and not in front of it and eventually I have gotten used to it. When off, it is most apparent but then - who should get upset about a blank screen.


Always suggest unplugging the set for about five minutes once a month in order for the degausser to fully do it's job to retain the CRT's pristine picture quality.


----------



## PathofNeo

Would I be better suited seeking out a 960 or 970 model specifically for modern games? I have an Xbox 360/PS3 and will get the Wii U and it seems to me that the lower resolution of the 34XBR970 would closely match the 720p games on the market now. So I've been weighing in my head to go with the super fine pitch or will the 34XBR970's closer to native 720p resolution be in fact sharper? I want a clean, sharp image with 0 lag. I also assume the 970 has the same deep blacks yes?


Of course we're on the brink of next gen consoles so I imagine the 960's super fine pitch will strengthen with the higher resolution of tomorrow's games. But I've read more than once speculation of next gen will be about 720p @ 60 frames per second so again it looks like I may need to find a CRT with near 720p resolution. I just wish I could test a 960 with my games. The other thing I heard is that the 960 is darker than the 970 due to the super fine pitch. Hmm I'm not sure I'd like this since I don't want crushed blacks in my games. I turn to your advise now...


----------



## THX-1138

No idea on games, but the 970 has nothing in common with the 960 but some software.

It's just an HS sony.


----------



## Floydage

And I wonder if the newer version would have better video game support > might compare the manuals.


----------



## salty

I have a HS tube and a SFP tube, and I can't tell any difference in quality between the two when playing Xbox games. I would get the SFP though for real 1080p stuff just because it is definitely superior for that.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *salty*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7620#post_22524157
> 
> I have a HS tube and a SFP tube, and I can't tell any difference in quality between the two when playing Xbox games. I would get the SFP though for real 1080p stuff just because it is definitely superior for that.


Of course the 960 has no support for true native 1080p. But high-quality BluRay movies that COULD display at 1080p still look stunning when delivered as 1080i from player to the 960.


----------



## PathofNeo

Yes I thought about that. Blu-rays played back at 1080i would still look better on the super fine pitch then the majority of plasmas today.. I would assume. You can't beat the pixel pitch of 34" and the blacks would be incredible. But I can't but to think that the dimmer picture of the 960 would makes games not as good as an HS model. You say the XBR970 is just a re-branded HS correct? But I still question whether or not the super fine pitch actually benefits with today's games being as their only 720p. Wouldn't there be more unnecessary scaling involved?


----------



## salty

I am not sure if there would be any extra scaling between the two, but it stands to reason that 720p input would likely look the same on both. As far as the SFP tube being too dim for gaming, I have not found that to be an problem issue either. I just bump up the contrast/brightness on one of the presets for gaming and it looks great to me. Just my 2 cents


----------



## PathofNeo

Super fine pitch = 1440X1080i Hi-Scan = 850?X1080i


By virtue of that it seems that 720p games (1280X720) would have to scale more on the XBR960 if the CRT is unable to multisync. I'm not saying games won't look sweet on it but they could potentially look better on a Hi-Scan model. Can someone who tested both confirm this?


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PathofNeo*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7620#post_22524542
> 
> 
> But I can't but to think that the dimmer picture of the 960 would makes games not as good as an HS model.



The 960N doesn't have the anti-reflective coating of the 960 so I've heard it's brighter. Then there's those adventuresome souls that have removed the coating...


----------



## PathofNeo

That's true but it's next to impossible finding a 960N. I think I may have come across one if the past 5 years on craigslist.


----------



## gprro1

Throw back thread!!! Good to see its still around a little. I'm looking for info on fixing the faulty IC/protection chips. I'm going to dig around, but if anyone has some info to point to, it's more than welcome! Mine started the blinking lights at start up, and wont start sometimes. It starts up again if it sits for a few couple days.


Thanks,

G


----------



## hemogoblin

If anyone in the Los Angeles/So-Cal area is interested in one of these. I am putting mine up for sale. $150. PM me.


----------



## homerging




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gprro1*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7600_50#post_22544754
> 
> 
> Throw back thread!!! Good to see its still around a little. I'm looking for info on fixing the faulty IC/protection chips. I'm going to dig around, but if anyone has some info to point to, it's more than welcome! Mine started the blinking lights at start up, and wont start sometimes. It starts up again if it sits for a few couple days.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> G


Go here
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1366567/sony-trinitron-wega-rlod-twenty-dollar-repair-guide/


----------



## gprro1

Nice! Thanks for the links. I think i opened a rabbit hole of info now, been digging around for a couple hours now on other things like convergence and service menu stuff...


----------



## brucku

I am offering my Kd-34xbr960N for local pickup in NJ. Please contact me if interested. Entertaining reasonable cash offers. Montclair, NJ.


----------



## Camicia

I got the KV34XBR960 2 years ago at a great price.

I was able to stream YouTube with my phone through a HDMI to HDMI-micro cable. Then after a while, it stopped working. I blamed the cheap cable (that was not able to work on my Dell monitor too) and I stopped trying.


But today, I bought a LG BP620C Blue Ray player and even if I tried all possible setting on the HDMI I can only use it through the composite output. I wonder if the HDMI of the KV34XBR960 has problems or it is just incompatible. I also wonder if a firmware upgrade of the KV34XBR960 would solve the problem. But I haven't been able to find a site to download the SW ver 1.76 described in http://www.agoraquest.com/viewtopic.php?topic=17026 (or even an earlier version).


Can anybody help?


Best,

Camicia


----------



## THX-1138

Have you turned on the hdmi output on the player?


I use component myself, but I have seen these sets used with hdmi and dvi.


----------



## Camicia

As I wrote, I tried all sort of different setting for the HDMI output.

BTW, I jsut noticed that when I turn the KV34XBR960 on, the red light blink 10 times. Is it an error code? What does it mean?


Best,

Chris


----------



## THX-1138

Just making sure.

Many don't realize it can be turned off.


The lights are an error code.

There are charts posted somewhere on the forum.


It's possible the hdmi card has failed, but component will work.

The error code may be unrelated or not.


----------



## Floydage

Also make sure none of the source devices are set for 720p or 1080p as I 'think' these sets could only accommodate 480i, 480p, and 1080i (I'm basing this on my Panny version of one of these CRTs).


----------



## THX-1138

The sonys take a 720P feed in component.

Actually seems slightly better.

Can't speak for hdmi.


----------



## Camicia

I used Y Pb Pr for the DVD and it looks quite good. However my new Blue Ray player (LG BP620C) has only a HDMI or a compo*site* output (one 2 contacts connector for all 3 colors) that is not so good.

I tried 1080i, 700i, 480i and 480p as well as the "auto" option and I cannot see no image. The menu has an option for the HTMI frequency (60Hz) and 3D (on) that cannot be altered. Maybe it is not backward compatible :-/ I wonder if the Sony BDP-BX59 ( http://www.amazon.com/Sony-BDP-BX59-Blu-ray-Player-Included/dp/B008BA2UTU/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top ) is better


Best,

Chris.


----------



## THX-1138

i suggest trying it with another tv.

It sounds like a problem with the set though.


Newer bluray players are defective by collusion of the manufacturers, 2011 or later??

Component outputs are disabled or removed, so no high quality picture over them.

I don't buy any of the later defective units myself, and never plan to.

Getting an older unit is an option for you.

Make sure it hasn't been crippled by the maker.

The date will usually tell you.


A new foreign unit may still have full capability, if you can get one.

Otherwise, you will have to convert to component from hdmi.

Or fix the set.


Ask the manufacturer if they have any reason to think it shouldn't work with hdmi.


I have had discs refuse to play due to new software.

i won't be buying any newer units because of this issue either.

As with macro rentals, I inform the distributor that they have a very secure dead disc.

ironically, THX-1138, the bluray disc, won't play on my 2010 panasonic.

After five returns, gave up.

Will bluray be macroed to death like tapes?

Already a dead format?

As with vhs, I don't have to pay for dead discs.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *THX-1138*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7650#post_22683398
> 
> 
> ironically, THX-1138, the bluray disc, won't play on my 2010 panasonic.
> 
> After five returns, gave up.


I recently sent a BD+R homemade BluRay disc (of a SYTYCD show) to an AVS member who had an old Panasonic DMP-35 player (perhaps 3 years out-of-date in firmware). He was unable to play the disc, although I pre-tested it on my Oppo BDP-83 before mailing it and it played perfectly.


He ultimately ordered a firmware upgrade from Panasonic, and after it arrived and got installed he was now able to play my disc without a problem.


So if you have an old Panasonic BluRay player of your own, perhaps it too needs a firmware upgrade to deal with inability to play certain commercial BluRay discs.



Personally, after many years of using component video into my XBR960 (from 2004 through early 2009) via a Zektor 4-in-1-out component video switch, I moved to HDMI for my XBR960 when I acquired a Yamaha RX-V863 AVR in April 2009. I've never gone back to component video since, and feel strongly that the HDMI input provides more "punch" to the picture, appearing somewhat sharper and more "alive".


Note that my 960 is very much tweaked (in service menu and user menu, and magnet job on picture tube to address curvature and bowing which cannot be fixed by the service menu, etc.,etc.) and I feel the picture to be stunning and superb on all inputs (both component video and HDMI). So when I say "HDMI has more punch" it's not because I didn't bother to tweak component video, which I used as my only input for 5 years. It's because I really feel HDMI looks better, especially with BluRay movies as the source.


----------



## THX-1138

I already had the latest update, but panasonic was very helpful and sent me the latest update on disc to be sure.

Had no effect.

I've had no other software issues, if that's what it is.

The disc is from a distributor that I have screened other blurays from without problems.


Is there any technical justification for hdmi looking better on this set?

It's my understanding that this set just converts hdmi to component feed, adding another layer of processing?

Why do you think the hdmi is displaying better?


I have seen a 910 run on an hdmi/dvi feed, and it looked very good.

I'm willing to try it.

I haven't had the chance to do any tuning so far with this set.


I have other tvs that need component, so I still would feel any deck lacking component out is a gutted unit.

The projectors I have use component, and I have some HS and older XBR sonys too, dvi and hdmi.

I won't support bad practice from dvd manufacturers.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *THX-1138*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7650#post_22681158
> 
> 
> The sonys take a 720P feed in component.
> 
> Actually seems slightly better.
> 
> Can't speak for hdmi.



Sweet! Wish my Panny could do 720p assuming it would improve fast motion stuff. Do you know if the Sony displays in native 720p or does it convert to something else? (I'd heard that most if not all CRTs could not p anything above 480).


I had read that the lack of component on more recent blu-ray players had to do with the HD copyright BS (and I suspect some cost reduction to boot). The problem with the older BR players is they keep adding new features and such to new disks which causes compatibility issues. I had one disk that kept giving me a lot of pain on my Sony BDP-S300, could play but would hang up on certain routines and was real slow to start; and I had done all the firmware updates available.


----------



## THX-1138

I can't vouch for it, but it's called 720P.

I am led to believe crts can't do P at all.

Don't know.

The difference seems to be with motion.

I can tell no difference without motion, and 1080i setting may be cleaner with no motion.

I have used some settings others might consider sacreligious, which may have some effect.

It's a fine point, and may have to do with the way the disc is processed, but it does seem to make a difference with really sharp pictures and motion.


Re component access:

The arbitrary denial of services and quality already paid for will bite distribution companies once again.



Bluray discs that can't be played at all, will certainly be secure, as were every macro vhs tape I ever rented, returned and got a refund for.

The worst I ever saw was The Time Machine, which strobed and flickered like a japanese cartoon.

Big piracy problem with forgotten 1962 films?


Netflix told me the worst they saw was on sony decks with sony blurays.

Seems sony media is incompatible with sony hardware.










I predict a public reaction to anti-copy practice of total indifference to ALL copying, similar to ongoing political reactions to other abuse of law.

The nine year old girl fined and prosecuted for piracy isn't winning hearts and minds.

A violent swing in the other direction is coming.

So predictable.


----------



## Floydage

At least from what I just read (search - forums but didn't see an official article) they can do 480p but 720p is too fast for the bigger CRTs to do 'economically' (electron gun speed and required circuitry, etc.). In that case your 720p is probably a conversion to 1080i. It also sounded like PC CRT monitors could do it but of course they're smaller.

Yeah the 1080i will have a little better resolution than 720p but the progressive scan is cleaner for motion and has much less (if any?) interline twitter. Now in the case of a 720p-to-1080i conversion it seems like the motion blur would still be generated since the final processing is i. If I interpreted it right the interlace motion blur is caused by the image processing used to reduce interline twitter (and that makes me wonder if this processing can be adjusted on some sets, i.e. trade off twitter for cleaner motion).


----------



## THX-1138

It does seem wrong that the 720P setting would look better.

I could be wrong.

That's my impression though.

Maybe there is an explanation?


----------



## THX-1138

It does seem wrong that the 720P setting would look better.

I could be wrong.

That's my impression though.

Maybe there is an explanation?


----------



## JA Fant

IME, wether it is 720 or 1080 this is still a killer TV. I have owned my 960 for 8 years now. Hope to have it another 8 years, at least!


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *THX-1138*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7650#post_22689105
> 
> 
> It does seem wrong that the 720P setting would look better.
> 
> I could be wrong.
> 
> That's my impression though.
> 
> Maybe there is an explanation?



Deja vu post.










I don't know but if I had my choice between 'native' 720p and 1080i on a 34" set I would choose 720p as I can't stand interline twitter and motion blur, especially with me football games (the gridlines at certain camera angles can become a mess, flickering artificial turf (the new stuff) is no fun especially when wet, and motion issues are obvious). If you want to see an amplified version of what I'm talking about flip on a game through a converter box (480i). Now I imagine if the set were much bigger I might prefer 1080i as the resolution difference would be more noticeable (unfortunately there's no 1080p for OTA broadcasts, i.e. football games).


----------



## Camicia

In my case there is no choice. 720p does not work either. I read that Sony has some service bulletins on the kd-34xbr960 that include firmware updates.

I do not have a lot of hopes that they will fix the problem but I wonder if somebody here can email me the latest version of the firmware ( v1.76 ?) to belloinchat at hotmail so I can try it


----------



## Joseph Dubin

I too have found the picture has more punch using the HDMI rather than component inputs.


Only problem might be is that I did tweak my set using the service menu but for HDMI only - not component - so HDMI has an added advantage or component an added dis-advantage.










Don't know about Blu-ray but up-converted DVDs look great on this set. And what is equally amazing is that I do a lot of recording onto DVD-R for movies since otherwise it would cost me an arm and a leg to accumulate even a small portion of my collection. I have a panasonic recorder and the signal is fed through my DVR via s-video. It is, of course, a down-converted signal being output and then its a home made DVD-R up-converted to 1080i from the set - but boy, do even those recordings look great, thanks to both the XBR960 and the Panasonic's great flexible recording mechanism. Dubbed John Carter a few weeks back and compared to the original source would say on a scale of 1-10, the recording was around an eight - very acceptable for a forty cents blank disc.










They also look better on the 960 than my 32 inch LCD in the den, also played back up-converted.


Just a great set till this day!


----------



## Trojita

I just picked up a XBR960. Won't be able to use it until I take it to my parents house (My apartment is way too small).


Anything I should know about the unit?


----------



## TeeJay1952

Big, heavy and hard to move.


----------



## THX-1138

It's lighter than some.


Don't drop it.

It is supposed to have some fragile internal parts in the tube.


Put it in your apartment if you can.

You can sit really close to these.


Lucky day for you.


----------



## Floydage

Yeah it's only about a 28" 4:3 set based on the height of the screen. That bummed me out when I got my Panasonic version of one of these as my old 4:3 CRT was a 31" set, so I moved the Panny closer (now 9' viewing distance). And these Sony Super Fine Pitch tubes have even higher resolution so could be closer. Of course mine could be a little closer for HD but I positioned it based on how it looked using my VCR







.


----------



## Trojita

We didn't get it up to my room Saturday and I wanted to give it awhile to acclimate to the indoor temperature.


I had to leave early so I didn't get to mess with it very long. The TV turned on fine. I tried using a Fat 60GB PS3 I haven't used for a year or so and hooked it up to the unit. No video came out and only very glitchy sound was coming out. I was worried. I tried to use the cable auto program but the thing was taking too long. I waited awhile until it got a couple of digital channels. I hit cancel but none of the channels that were available showed anything. I then selected autoprogram while I got ready to leave. It got a bunch as well as Shown channels. I cancelled it because I didn't have enough time for the whole thing. It worked! I got the local channels! I unboxed a Sony Google TV Device that I have had forever and plugged that in. The HDMI input worked!


I believe the PS3 wasn't working because it was probably used last in a 1080P device and was set to 1080P. I was also using a power cable that I wasn't sure 100% was the PS3's one, but it fit.


I paid $250 for the unit.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Trojita*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7650#post_22740585
> 
> 
> I paid $250 for the unit.










Ouch if that's for the TV.


----------



## Trojita




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7650#post_22740799
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ouch if that's for the TV.



Did I pay too much?


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Trojita*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7650#post_22741073
> 
> 
> Did I pay too much?



Based on what I see on Craigslist, yes. Your mileage may vary depending on supply&demand in your area (I'm in the large D/FW market). I'd say $50-100 depending on condition, stand, and remote control; the stands may actually be worth more than the set especially if it's nice like the factory one that matched with these, they can hold a lot of weight (folks want them for their large new flat panels). The sets are somewhat an albatross due to the weight and then one has to get help to move it. $250 can buy a new flat panel around this size. I saw a 30" 960 with stand go for free but it went real fast; I've seen a few others free but probably older versions (i.e. no DTV tuner, HDMI, etc.). The free is because they got their new TV and don't want to pay to have the old CRT moved out.


----------



## THX-1138

I paid about that.

Rare here.

Drove 250 miles to get it.


A 910 showed up.

I offered $100 for it.

Someone paid $110 and wants to make a profit.

Hadn't sold last I checked.

Nice picture though.


----------



## JA Fant

The 910 is still a sweet CRT. I love my 960 as well as the 970 CRT!


----------



## nraval

Hello, I have the 960N in my home theater system. For some reason, the option to change the HDMI option from interlaced to progressive to Cinemotion is locked out. It can only be changed if whatever the HDMI Port is connected to, is turned off. Why?


----------



## Floydage

I forgot to add that if an ad states how much they paid for it, etc. then they're probably going to want too much for it (i.e. they can't bear the thought of losing so much when they paid $5,000 although they just spent a fraction of that on a bigger new TV).



I suspect these sets have input port auto-detect circuitry that prevent them from doing certain functions depending on the input signal (i.e. HDMI issue). My Panasonic locks out certain items in the menu on some inputs, the aspect function is also disabled with a 1080i input which stinks. Hopefully a 960 expert here can better answer your question.


----------



## JA Fant

nraval -


I can tell you that there is a plethora of info in this thread. I bought my 960N in December of 2005. I immediately began reading this thread the very next day to get ideas on this outstanding CRT. Go to page 1 and start reading forward.

I would think that some kind of protection circuit is in effect. There are many experts here that tells about the many facets of the Sony service menu.


----------



## Floydage

There's also a search hyperlink below the bold subject line above. And if my memory serves me correctly there is at least one more 960 thread in AVS, this one being called 'official.' The search function may also let you search all of AVS, some folks pop in and create new threads to ask a question (I haven't performed a search since they revamped the site so don't know how thorough it is anymore). I would leave the N off 960 when using any of the model number as a keyword.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JA Fant*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7680#post_22743511
> 
> 
> The 910 is still a sweet CRT. I love my 960 as well as the 970 CRT!



Shouldn't you be listed as 'Sony widescreen HD CRT videophile' rather than audiophile?







Man what a collection!


Anyone in the D/FW area a 420 just popped up on CL for $20, says perfect pic but no sound though. HDMI but I 'think' right before the DTV tuner was added. Residence is Southlake ($ area).


----------



## JA Fant

Many Thanks! Floydage. I no longer have the 910, man, that was a great CRT! My 1st love will always be music, followed by electronic gear to play it.


----------



## Floydage

You're welcome JAudiophile Fant! Similar here although my big audio absorption was in my youth induced by building Frazier speakers out of high school. They're now unique and kinda rare since the original models ended in the '80s (sold off, the 'brand' still exists but not the same stuff). I say rare but can be found on the 'relative' cheap since the name wasn't known like say a Klipsch (Jack and Paul were competitors yet friends). Give 'em a listen if you get the opp, you'll be impressed I guarantee it! Very efficient too, no need for power-hogging amps. I got the original Crown amp&pre-amp from the Frazier sound room and of course a few sets of Fraziers.


Hey someone posted an ad for a 970 but their front panel pic shows it has the Super Fine Pitch picture tube; they also say it was 2004 when they got it. To the best of my knowledge a 970 didn't have an SFP tube and I think they were circa 2006/7; am I correct? (I get the impression the 970 was cost-reduced based on that (if true) and selling price). BTW which one do you like better, the 960 or the 970?


----------



## swing1951

To the guy who spent $250: Well, they were 2 grand when they were new; don't feel too bad. Generally, though, the set, if functioning well and the remote is included, goes for about $100 these days. If the stand and manual come with a used 960, $150 or $200, tops.


A Cadillac I had once would be an adequate correlation. New, in 1996, it went for $50,000 (which, of course, is a rip, but that's Caddies for ya). When I bought it, still a nice car, some nine or ten years on, it was (now I don't remember exactly) around 5,6 grand. Hideous depreciation.


A lot of people are having trouble giving these TVs away as a result of the weight and awkwardness of the set. The movers I hired came thisclose to dropping the beast. I would have been very, very unhappy.


This still is a splendid TV, maybe the best CRT ever, not counting pro monitors. One of the best televisions of all time. Period. The better plasmas and LCD/LEDs have just about caught up but the XBR960 is a classic. Mine (man. May 2005) still works flawlessly (except for ther unavoidable quirks and quirkettes of that rectangular glass tube). I'm fairly certain I'll be enjoying it in my smallish but nicely turned out audio/video center/library/man cave for many years to come.


----------



## DSperber

Finally doing a bit of a video upgrade, and my XBR960 is involved.


I've got an old 35" Mits CS35803 (ca. 1994) built into my bedroom wall, from when I originally did the decorating for this room. The original TV in that wall enclosure was an original first-generation 35" (CK-3501) from 1986 which got given to a friend when I moved back to LA from Dallas in 2002 and brought my CS35803 with me.


At the same time of the 2002 return from Dallas I also brought my very first HDTV with me, a superb Sampo SME-34WHD5. That set lasted two years in LA until the picture tube died and it was impossible to be repaired (Sampo had stopped selling in the US, and parts were unavailable).


So in 2004 to replace the dead Sampo I bought my 34XBR960 brand new (and got involved in tweaking and setup), got a "magnet job" on the picture tube (which is the only way to correct certain curvatures and bowing of what are supposed to be straight lines) because Sony's tech's (who visited me twice) could not correct it with the service menu so I had to arrange for my own private "qualified" service tech at Sony's expense, and have enjoyed an absolutely superb and stunning picture from this set ever since.


So the bedroom has had two TV's in it since 2002: (1) the CS35803 4:3 SD CRT in the wall, and (b) the XBR960 16:9 HDTV CRT on an entertainment cabinet off to the right. The Mits essentially gets no use any longer, and in fact actually had to undergo service for its audio system which had died because of aging, leaking capacitors due to infrequent use.


Ok. Last weekend I had an opportunity to visit Video and Audio Center (in Santa Monica) specifically to see for myself the new Sony 4K UltraHD 84" set (priced at $25,000) which was on display, showing the special 4K demo loop Sony had produced for it. I also compared it to the competitive 4K LG UltraHD 84" set (around $19,000) which was also on display. It really was no contest, with both quite stunning but the Sony far and away superior... astonishing, actually. Of course it could be the demo loop produced by Sony that I was really comparing, as the LG demo wasn't all that impressive.


Anyway, while I was in the store I got to browse around looking at other large flatpanels which I might consider somehow installing in/on my bedroom wall to replace that old 35" Mits antique that never gets used now. I looked at quite a number of sets in the 55" and 65" (and even 70") size, from various different manufacturers... including the so-called latest and greatest state-of-the-art Sony XBR HX-950 LCD/LED (in both 55" and 65" sizes).


Well, to be honest, I was not impressed. As we all know, the larger the screen the worse "low-resolution" images look. 1080p will look good, but 1080i or 720p will not really look great (especially with low bitrate highly compressed cable channels). And of course watching 480i on a large screen is tragic. In particular, I really was not impressed with the Sony HX-950's overall performance, including the 3D demo.


Very tough to beat the picture (in my mind, anyway) of the XBR960. I know, not really a fair comparison of a 34" CRT vs. 65" LCD, but if I was going to do an upgrade I wanted it to be a real upgrade.


Then I decided to look at plasma sets. I've never owned a plasma and I've never even really looked at one carefully for possible ownership. But I'm now a convert, and have decided to go ahead and finally replace my 35" Mits with a plasma, not an LCD/LED.


And the winner is: Panasonic TC-P65VT50 


Truly stunning, even the floor model in the store which has not had an official ISF calibration. I brought my own BluRay demo discs to try (instead of just watching the store content or local TV channels) and it was stunning.


I've got a custom installer from the store coming out tomorrow to discuss installation plans, and how this large set might be mounted AGAINST the wall (rather than IN the wall) since I don't really want to do any demolition or remodeling. But I will be buying it this week.



Ok... which brings me to the XBR960 involvement with the story.


As part of my installation of the 65VT50 I'm going to have a professional ISF calibration done, I've now gotten in touch with four "nationally regarded" ISF calibrators who will be in the LA area in January/February and who could do that job on the 65VT50 then. Haven't decided yet who to commit to.


And... I'm also going to finally have my XBR960 professionally ISF calibrated at the same time. All of these pros say they either (a) own an XBR960 of their own, and/or (b) have done many calibrations for them. So I'm going to let them do the Sony as well as the Panasonic as long as they're here.


My plan is to let them take "VIVID" as their setup (rather than PRO, which I've got set with my own values). Hopefully it will be possible for them to undo all of the factory VIVID preset values and essentially convert it into a second PRO, for their adjustments. I just don't want to lose what I've currently got due to their calibration. I want both available, if for nothing more than being able to do an A/B-comparison.


So, after almost 9 years of "self-tweaked" pleasure watching images on my XBR960, I'm finally going to see what difference can possibly be coaxed out of a professional calibration.



This is going to be wonderful when finished... top-of-the-line reference-status 34XBR960 CRT, and current generally agreed reference-status 65VT50 plasma, both in one room right next to each other. Can't wait to watch my first 1080p movie on the calibrated 65", but I will continue to also use the XBR960 especially during the day, and also for "ordinary HDTV programs" which might not look terrific on the 65" but look stunning on the XBR960.


Very excited about getting this plasma set on my wall.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swing1951*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7680#post_22750907
> 
> 
> A Cadillac I had once would be an adequate correlation. New, in 1996, it went for $50,000 (which, of course, is a rip, but that's Caddies for ya). When I bought it, still a nice car, some nine or ten years on, it was (now I don't remember exactly) around 5,6 grand. Hideous depreciation.



That triggered a question: Does the 960 have an 'odometer' for hours of use? I recall reading about a similar genre set that did but seemed like it was a Loewe or maybe the RCA with the same CRT as a Loewe. A lightly used 960 would be worth more to those of us who really care about these sets.


----------



## Trojita

I did get the Sony stand with the XBR960, so there is that.


----------



## toddo0254

So, I have a new speaker system to hook up to my 960. I hook it up to the audio out and turn off the internal speakers per the instructions. No sound comes out of the new speakers despite their apparently being on and correctly hooked up and working. I then connected to my A/V receiver with the same output, the A/V receiver worked with other components (Blu-Ray, DVR, CD player, etc.), and no sound comes through the A/V speakers either. Finally, I tried the digital optical audio output to the A/V receiver. Still no sound.


My question is: Is there something I am missing to get the 'audio out' going? Am I missing a setting? It seems simple but maybe I just missed a step. I am thinking outputting to two different speaker systems with two different analog cables and one digital cable points to the 'audio out' system not working. Just wanted to check to see if I am missing something before I try to figure something else out.


Thanks,


----------



## jhirsche

"DSperber"


Congrats on your purchase! I too am retiring our XBR960 for a Panasonic TC-P65VT50, which is being delivered tomorrow. Negotiated an awesome price with the Magnolia dept. manager at the local BB, and plan to have Chad B. calibrate it sometime in the spring after it has a few hundred hours on it. Chad did the calibration on our XBR960 back in 2005, and we've been enjoying that picture ever since. The XBR will now reside upstairs in the bedroom... once I find a strong helper to assist me getting it there.


I'm sure you've already found the 2 threads on here for this model.... lots of great info there. Let us know who will be doing your calibration! -Jacob


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jhirsche*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7680#post_22752622
> 
> 
> Let us know who will be doing your calibration! -Jacob


Haven't quite made my mind up yet, although I'll have to do it soon. I'm deferring the decision until after I actually buy the set (probably this weekend) and get all the details set for delivery and installation.


But it's between three: (1) Jeff Meier of AccuCal, (2) David Abrams of Avical, and (3) Gregg Loewen of LionAV. They're all very highly regarded and I'm sure all of them would do a superb job on both the VT50 as well as the XBR960.


However both Jeff and Gregg are from far away, and happen to be planning on being in the LA area in January/February (either around CES or for a while afterwards). On the other hand David is local, which might be a real plus and thus gives him a small edge in my mind if for no other reason than logistics and possible repeat visits.


Anyway, I'm still not decided yet.


But both sets will be in the same room together, side by side... like "big brother" and "little brother". Should be fascinating to have both of these "best in breed" displaying the same content, to make a true direct comparison.


----------



## JA Fant

Right On! DSperber,


I,too, am at the point where I want to ISF my 960N. Bought new in 2005, this is Sony's last killer XBR CRT. It is simply he best ever!

Keep me posted on whom you choose to calibrate your 960.


----------



## jhirsche




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JA Fant*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7680#post_22752809
> 
> 
> Right On! DSperber,
> 
> I,too, am at the point where I want to ISF my 960N. Bought new in 2005, this is Sony's last killer XBR CRT. It is simply he best ever!
> 
> Keep me posted on whom you choose to calibrate your 960.



If your anywhere within Chad B's territory, his calibration of the 960 used to include adjustment of the magnets on the tube. If he still does this, he would be by far your best deal on a calibration.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Trojita*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7680#post_22751687
> 
> 
> I did get the Sony stand with the XBR960, so there is that.



Excellent! Those are nice stands.

Hopefully you got the remote too. I had to buy one off eBay for my Panny, needed it for the special functions like Aspect and PoutP, was dreadful not being able to change the aspect from whoever used it last before me. I only had simple U-remotes so I don't know if the fancier ones could do those special functions.


BTW $250 was a great price about two years ago, it's just changed rapidly the past coupla years. I still see ads occasionally around that price but they're usually the ones stating how much they paid for it new, maybe the lightly used ones with all the extras still command that price if they're patient. Of course it's not like the ads are full of widescreen HD CRTs...


----------



## Joseph Dubin

I'm just wondering if having the 960 re-calibrated a few years back could raise the asking price today - if proved - or at this stage of the game, it doesn't really matter.


And trojita, don't worry if you paid $250 for your 960. If it' in good shape it' better than most any flat screen available on the market today - and 34 x 960 times better than any new 32 inch you an get in that price range - with that, it's a no-brainer.


This is still a powerhouse set. What I still do is every few weeks to unplug the set for about five minutes - it seems that the diffuser really kicks in at that point and restores just a bit of the punch that is lost due to the nature I guess of CRTs.


If you have a blu ray player you can use a calibration disc to tweak the service menu on your own. Just be sure to print the speadsheets available on other threads and write down the initial factory settings so not to worry about making any errors if you want to start all over again. I do not have a blu ray player but had stored on my DVR the test patterns from the old INHD station and was able to use them in conjunction with the THX glasses for color. Of course, a few years back I accidentally erased it and because I don't have a blu ray player, I only go into the service menu to confirm the settings I made are still there.


----------



## JA Fant

Floydage-


you are correct Sir. The Sony 970 does not have the super fine pitch (SFP) tube. It was $1000 compared to the 960 that does have SFP tube at $2000.

The 970 did appear in early 2006. I say, without reservation, that the 960 / 960N is Sony's last outstanding CRT.

Happy New Year!


----------



## JA Fant

Thank You! jhirsche for the suggestion on Chad B. If you read enough of these threads, here in AVS forums, you will soon realize that he is very-highly regarded for ISF calibration. Another expert is Mr Bob located in the San Francisco Bay area. He truly has much love for the Sony 960 CRT!

Happy New Year!


----------



## Floydage

Thanks for the info JA Fant. I've passed on a couple of good 970 deals in the past thinking that was the case but that recent CL ad had me second-guessing myself.

Happy New Year to you too as well as the rest of the AVS crowd!


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JA Fant*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7680#post_22758153
> 
> 
> Floydage-
> 
> you are correct Sir. The Sony 970 does not have the super fine pitch (SFP) tube. It was $1000 compared to the 960 that does have SFP tube at $2000.
> 
> The 970 did appear in early 2006. I say, without reservation, that the 960 / 960N is Sony's last outstanding CRT.
> 
> Happy New Year!



Well, that may be true if you choose to Ignore the Sony Qualia 015


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *8086*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7680#post_22759905
> 
> 
> Well, that may be true if you choose to Ignore the Sony Qualia 015



Or maybe like me he never heard of it or sorted it outside of reality. A quick search shows it as an $11,000 monitor circa 2003. I bet it looks great though.


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7680#post_22761236
> 
> 
> Or maybe like me he never heard of it or sorted it outside of reality. A quick search shows it as an $11,000 monitor circa 2003. I bet it looks great though.




I've been searching for once since 2003 and I may end up spending the rest of my life in search of it. I believe it to be the most rare of all the Qualia products Sony produced, right next to the Qualia 016 Camera, which I have seen only once on ebay and the asking price was waay too high. The Qualia 004 and 006 come up rather frequently on ebay and can be had for under 3k each.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi DSperber,


Congratulations on the new Panny plasma. I too have already decided if I need to replace my 960 (no, please, never) that it would also be a plasma model. Fortunately, in my co-op, electricity is included in the monthly maintenance fee so I don't have to worry about kilowatt hours.


I've also felt that the larger the set, the lower - even in subtle - the resolution has to be. There has to be some give when the same amount of pixels is used with a screen the larger it gets.


That was a great suggestion - having the vivid mode transformed into a second pro one. That's the only drawback to the 960 - only one HDMI input and though I have a HDMI switcher, the PRO is used for HD cable, the MOVIE is used for up-converted DVD (with my extensive disc collection not worth upgrading - and besides, the 960 produces such a great picture on regular DVD anyway) and STANDARD is used for watching my recorded DVD-Rs.


I've also done my own service tweaking so please let us know if you were close to with your settings after the professional calibration.


Again, enjoy the Panny.


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7680#post_22764104
> 
> 
> Hi DSperber,
> 
> Congratulations on the new Panny plasma. I too have already decided if I need to replace my 960 (no, please, never) that it would also be a plasma model. Fortunately, in my co-op, electricity is included in the monthly maintenance fee so I don't have to worry about kilowatt hours.
> 
> I've also felt that the larger the set, the lower - even in subtle - the resolution has to be. There has to be some give when the same amount of pixels is used with a screen the larger it gets.
> 
> That was a great suggestion - having the vivid mode transformed into a second pro one. That's the only drawback to the 960 - only one HDMI input and though I have a HDMI switcher, the PRO is used for HD cable, the MOVIE is used for up-converted DVD (with my extensive disc collection not worth upgrading - and besides, the 960 produces such a great picture on regular DVD anyway) and STANDARD is used for watching my recorded DVD-Rs.
> 
> I've also done my own service tweaking so please let us know if you were close to with your settings after the professional calibration.
> 
> Again, enjoy the Panny.




Three years ago when I helped him shop for, it I had my WattsUP Pro monitor my dad's new 42" Panasonic S2 Plasma and monitored it for 3 months. Watching the News, it runs around 85 and momentarily jumps to 150watts. With an All White Screen, it can peak to 200. Which is no more than my 34" XBR960 uses under similar circumstances. Newer LG Plasma displays have an energy guide rating of $15 a year, plasma tech surely has come a long way since 1998!


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *8086*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7680#post_22763763
> 
> 
> I've been searching for once since 2003 and I may end up spending the rest of my life in search of it. I believe it to be the most rare of all the Qualia products Sony produced, right next to the Qualia 016 Camera, which I have seen only once on ebay and the asking price was waay too high. The Qualia 004 and 006 come up rather frequently on ebay and can be had for under 3k each.



GL on your quest for the Holy Grail!

Deja vu that was same the link I got my quick search info.


----------



## jhirsche




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7680#post_22752642
> 
> 
> Haven't quite made my mind up yet, although I'll have to do it soon. I'm deferring the decision until after I actually buy the set (probably this weekend) and get all the details set for delivery and installation.
> 
> But it's between three: (1) Jeff Meier of AccuCal, (2) David Abrams of Avical, and (3) Gregg Loewen of LionAV. They're all very highly regarded and I'm sure all of them would do a superb job on both the VT50 as well as the XBR960.
> 
> However both Jeff and Gregg are from far away, and happen to be planning on being in the LA area in January/February (either around CES or for a while afterwards). On the other hand David is local, which might be a real plus and thus gives him a small edge in my mind if for no other reason than logistics and possible repeat visits.
> 
> Anyway, I'm still not decided yet.
> 
> But both sets will be in the same room together, side by side... like "big brother" and "little brother". Should be fascinating to have both of these "best in breed" displaying the same content, to make a true direct comparison.



Just wanted to say if you didn't pull the trigger on your 65VT50 panny yet, a little bird told me Paul's TV is blowing them out right now... best deal in town out on your side of the country. PM me for the details...


BTW, ours was delivered on Saturday. One word to describe it (once put in THX Cinema mode....)


S.T.U.N.N.I.N.G.!


Guess I'll start squirrling away my pennies now for a calibration. hoping to find someone who'll do a 125 pt calibration.... not sure if Chad.B. is doing them yet...


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jhirsche*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7680#post_22765779
> 
> 
> Just wanted to say if you didn't pull the trigger on your 65VT50 panny yet, a little bird told me Paul's TV is blowing them out right now... best deal in town out on your side of the country. PM me for the details...


Too late. Bought it last Friday from Video and Audio Center, and it's being free-delivered today (Monday) and installed (not free, but reasonable) by their OneTouch people on Thursday. The delivery people will also take away my existing (and heavy) Mits CS35803 today.


Selling price was $300 more than Paul's "regular price" of $3K, but the sales tax was paid by V&A as part of a promo, they gave me $100 off the 4-more-years extended complete warranty (total of 5 including Panny's) package, a significant discount on the Chief 125lb. mounting bracket, and I also talked them into giving me two pairs of TYER3D4MU 3D-glasses for free. I'm satisfied with the deal.


Getting very very excited. Started taking pictures already to document the transition.


----------



## JA Fant

8086,


I firmly stand on my comments about the 960 / 960N.


----------



## jassiji

All of a sudden on Jan1, my 34xbr960 became unresponsive to the remote and is changing inputs randomly.










First I thought it was my remote, but using the manual controls does not help. Is it toast or is there anything I can do to salvage it.


I am watching Sony 40" Google TV but it's pathetic compared to the XBR.










Can the gurus please advice? Thanks.


----------



## Jason F

I've got a wonderful 34XBR960, but my wife has outdone herself and sprung a 50" plasma on me for Christmas... which means my 960 needs a new home.


Free to anyone in the Atlanta area who can put this set to use. Unfortunately I have no place to utilize a second tv, and I hate to have to put this one out to pasture at the recycling facility.


Please someone have need for it. It feels a pity to turn it to scrap.










PM or email me and we'll make arrangements.


----------



## JA Fant

Very generous! Jason F.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Wow, that's a nice Christmas present. I'm sure if I cried hard enough my wife would let me get one too, however, I don't want to part with my 960. She did get me the complete Three Stooges Collection on DVD nyuk, nyuk










If you have both sets hooked up at the same time, let us know how the picture compares to each other - size excluded, of course.


----------



## JA Fant

Joseph,


I can tell you that the 960/960N is bettered only by those 1st generation Pioneer Elite Plasma sets (ISF calibrated).


----------



## Floydage

Do these 960s have significant reliability problems? I'm starting to be concerned because of the many posts on the subject of problems/troubleshooting but that could be because it's such a popular set within the CRT forum. I'm having second thoughts on my desire to acquire one due to the issue of moving it and don't really want to end up with any more boat anchors. I currently have a Panny version but no HDMI and I had to buy an HD tuner (got lucky for $20 but it's kinda old too being the first Motorola model); great PQ too but that Sony SFT tube sounds great, especially for SD and VCR crud.


----------



## JA Fant

Mine is going on 8 years - no hiccup- at this time. The key is finding a 960 or 960N that has not been abused (like any other consumer good).

I have used my CRT for tv/movies only. No computer or video game crap....


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7680#post_22765614
> 
> 
> GL on your quest for the Holy Grail!
> 
> Deja vu that was same the link I got my quick search info.



Congrats as well.


But after many years of ownership, I see little need for the XBR anymore. I have finally given in to the superior image quality of Panasonic's line of Plasma TVs. Scalers today have more or less adressed most of the issues we had with earlier matrix style displays and with less SD content on the market, a scaler is even less of an issue now than it was 5 years ago. The sharpness and detail on the Plasma is so far greater than that of my super fine pitch XBR960, that time has made her obsolete, which is what I never thought would happen to my tube.


- As she was a great tv that could have been better had Sony kept its commitment to the crt market.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *8086*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7680#post_22764219
> 
> 
> Three years ago when I helped him shop for, it I had my WattsUP Pro monitor my dad's new 42" Panasonic S2 Plasma and monitored it for 3 months. Watching the News, it runs around 85 and momentarily jumps to 150watts. With an All White Screen, it can peak to 200. Which is no more than my 34" XBR960 uses under similar circumstances. Newer LG Plasma displays have an energy guide rating of $15 a year, plasma tech surely has come a long way since 1998!



My Parents own both a 2012 LG and a 2011 Panasonic. LG has a nice picture (speakers suck) would be my 2nd choice if I couldn't get a Panasonic for some reason. The Panasonic on the Watts-up pro shows more or less the same reading. Your findings are rather accurate on both accounts.


----------



## Floydage

Yeah I'm cautious of the ones where they say "we just use it for video games" or I see cables coming out the front or the front door is gone (that seems to be quite common).


I was talking to my friend about flat panels the other day (he hopes to someday get one of those Sharp 80" Quattrons) and how some of you guys love the new Panny plasmas. He said that plasmas were power hogs and unreliable but he could be holding a perception from their early years, I personally don't know if that's still true or not. Part of my point was that the new ones have much faster scan rates to reduce motion blur, maybe less expensive, and maybe better PQ.


----------



## 8086

Quite the opposite, many new LCDs use more power than a Plasma of the same size.


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7710#post_22795189
> 
> 
> Do these 960s have significant reliability problems? I'm starting to be concerned because of the many posts on the subject of problems/troubleshooting but that could be because it's such a popular set within the CRT forum. I'm having second thoughts on my desire to acquire one due to the issue of moving it and don't really want to end up with any more boat anchors. I currently have a Panny version but no HDMI and I had to buy an HD tuner (got lucky for $20 but it's kinda old too being the first Motorola model); great PQ too but that Sony SFT tube sounds great, especially for SD and VCR crud.




Generally they are problem free except for a small power regulating chip on the power board tends to fail. But it's a $10-15 fix you can do yourself and you are back in business.


----------



## Floydage

Thanks 8086, good to know on both counts. Ah those blinking LED problems. lol


Do you anything on short-term and long-term reliability of modern plasmas? (I suspect LT is estimated by R&D).


Oh, did modern LCDs go up in power with LED backlighting or did plasmas just get more efficient?


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7710#post_22802538
> 
> 
> Thanks 8086, good to know on both counts. Ah those blinking LED problems. lol
> 
> Do you anything on short-term and long-term reliability of modern plasmas? (I suspect LT is estimated by R&D).
> 
> Oh, did modern LCDs go up in power with LED backlighting or did plasmas just get more efficient?




I know quite a few happy Panasonic owners and no problems. Modern units are rated for over 30 years of use. Plasmas got more efficient vs CCFL LCD, I have yet to see an LED LCD vs (LG) Plasma test with both sets being the same size.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

I've been tempted to think of replacing the 960 with a large screen Panny Plasma myself - I see where the cost of a no-thrills model (no 3D or apps) in the fifty inch range can be purchased in the $800 or so range. Seen in stores the picture quality and it is much closer to being lifelike like the CRT than a LCD (I have one and though the picture quality is beautiful, it is not life-like with a pastel like feel to it and all objects appearing on top of each other.


But then, it just might also be for the heck of getting something new. My 960 still works great - except for the exterior coating peeling off creating splotches - and those are not seen when the lights behind me are off ( the lights on the sides of the set still on) so it really isn't a problem). Also, the 960 and the stand blend in perfectly with the shape and size of our living room and fits perfectly with the furniture along side of it.


So why ruin a good thing if not unhappy with it?


----------



## jhirsche




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7710#post_22818603
> 
> 
> I've been tempted to think of replacing the 960 with a large screen Panny Plasma myself - I see where the cost of a no-thrills model (no 3D or apps) in the fifty inch range can be purchased in the $800 or so range. Seen in stores the picture quality and it is much closer to being lifelike like the CRT than a LCD (I have one and though the picture quality is beautiful, it is not life-like with a pastel like feel to it and all objects appearing on top of each other.
> 
> 
> But then, it just might also be for the heck of getting something new. My 960 still works great - except for the exterior coating peeling off creating splotches - and those are not seen when the lights behind me are off ( the lights on the sides of the set still on) so it really isn't a problem). Also, the 960 and the stand blend in perfectly with the shape and size of our living room and fits perfectly with the furniture along side of it.
> 
> 
> So why ruin a good thing if not unhappy with it?



Upgraded about 2 weeks ago to a Panasonic 65VT50 from the XBR960... was concerned we wouldn't bee happy with the change, but now that we've got it, we would never go back to that tiny little screen. Good luck... go for it!


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7710#post_22818603
> 
> 
> 
> But then, it just might also be for the heck of getting something new. My 960 still works great - except for the exterior coating peeling off creating splotches - and those are not seen when the lights behind me are off ( the lights on the sides of the set still on) so it really isn't a problem). Also, the 960 and the stand blend in perfectly with the shape and size of our living room and fits perfectly with the furniture along side of it.
> 
> 
> So why ruin a good thing if not unhappy with it?



Size but it sounds like you're OK with that; me too as long as I don't go to other folks' homes or sports bars where I start adapting to their bigger screens.


BTW if you're referring to the anti-glare coating on the picture tube there's a good post on removing it. I think it's on this thread, should be able to find it via the 'Search This Thread' function. Probably more than one post on the subject though.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7710#post_22819961
> 
> 
> Size but it sounds like you're OK with that; me too as long as I don't go to other folks' homes or sports bars where I start adapting to their bigger screens.
> 
> 
> BTW if you're referring to the anti-glare coating on the picture tube there's a good post on removing it. I think it's on this thread, should be able to find it via the 'Search This Thread' function. Probably more than one post on the subject though.



Hi Floyd,


Seen those posts too but sounded quite risky. Since it is only anti-glare, when there is nothing to glare back it's fine.


You're right about the size fitting my living room but like you, it's when going to other places when I start thinking in terms of bigger screens. When at home, it is not something I'm actually wishing for.


Was at a local dealer yesterday and saw the Panny Plasmas that others like and indeed they all had great pictures - and that was, of course, with the store settings (probably equivalent to the 960's vivid) but still it didn't make me feel any need to replace the 960 as far as picture quality was concerned. And of course, there is still the added dimension of a CRT that flat screens cannot reproduce.


Talking about added dimension, had my first experience with the home theater 3D effect (not analgyth) and will admit it was impressive but again,..... as long as I don't go to other places, like you, I'm OK







.


----------



## 8086




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7710#post_22825915
> 
> 
> Hi Floyd,
> 
> 
> Seen those posts too but sounded quite risky. Since it is only anti-glare, when there is nothing to glare back it's fine.
> 
> 
> You're right about the size fitting my living room but like you, it's when going to other places when I start thinking in terms of bigger screens. When at home, it is not something I'm actually wishing for.
> 
> 
> Was at a local dealer yesterday and saw the Panny Plasmas that others like and indeed they all had great pictures - and that was, of course, with the store settings (probably equivalent to the 960's vivid) but still it didn't make me feel any need to replace the 960 as far as picture quality was concerned_. And of course, there is still the added dimension of a CRT that flat screens cannot reproduce._
> 
> 
> Talking about added dimension, had my first experience with the home theater 3D effect (not analgyth) and will admit it was impressive but again,..... as long as I don't go to other places, like you, I'm OK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .



*What dimension is that Joe?* Since they stopped making them, development of the once mighty CRT tech has also ceased along with it allowing other techs to surpass it (and it took 10 years to do it







) Time to move on. Simple video, says a lot about CRTs. 



I have a Professional Sony CRT monitor with the anit-glare coating removed and I am way happier with it this way and have thought about doing the same to my XBR960 for more accurate color, brightness, contrast. The difference is massive. Shame they dont make 26" plasma screens for computers.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi,


That's why I did not want to come across as putting down flat screens (citing a gorgeous picture in their own right) as it is still having pride in how well the 960 holds up to even today's flat screens though (for us at least) it is nearly an eight year old CRT.


By dimension I meant not having everything appear right on top of everything else. There is what I meant by a bit of depth perception in the CRT. I've seen the same studio program on both the 55 inch LCD we have at the office, my own 32 inch LCD and the 960. Whenever going into sports bars the picture is "flat" (no pun intended) in appearance. No big deal and not meant to be a put down, however, I think most 960 owners will understand what I mean by that added bit of the picture being more life-like.


There are still little things I notice on the 960 (like skin blemishes, etc) that are not picked up in as much detail even on my 32 inch LCD at home - the face is more smooth like (nope, not due to the 960 sharpness and edge enhancement being to harsh LOL).


----------



## 8086

Can you even imagine where CRTs would be today, if Sony were still pushing the tech forward?


----------



## DSperber

I watched the Golden Globes on my 960 last night, and was truly amazed at how lifelike everybody looked on the screen.


The lighting (specifically the colors in the background, behind the presenters and winners) at the event was really superb, and everybody's skin and clothing and hair looked fantastic. I've noticed that all HDTV looks genuinely stunning ever since I started feeding the HDMI output of my Linksys DMA2100 (Windows Media Extender) into the external HDMI input of my new Oppo BDP-103 and then via HDMI into my Yamaha RX-V867 and then via HDMI out to the 960, rather than going straight from DMA2100 to V867 as it used to. There has to be some video processing going on in the BDP-103 which is making HDTV look absolutely superb... visibly superior to how it used to look without the benefit of this video enhancement.


Anyway, the picture and color was so spectacularly good that rather than delete the show when I was finished, I've retained it... specifically for use as a "reference" next month when [hopefully] I get my new Panny 65VT50 calibrated. The two sets will literally be side-by-side and my dual-HDMI-output Yamaha RX-V867 will be able to feed both TV's simultaneously, and any subjective or objective differences will be very very apparent.


This should be an exciting A/B-comparison. I'm honestly wondering if the VT50 can live up to the astounding image produced by the 960. I said this back in 2004 when I first got it, but "it looks like an open window". The onscreen image from a top quality "live show" like The Globes looks absolutely real on the 960, 3D-like and "alive", and nothing like a TV. Certainly nothing like any pixel-based flat screen TV I've ever seen.


Can't wait to see how the VT50 compares.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi Dsperber,


Remember, we're all anxious to read about your comparisons. Do you plan to use the picture on the 960 as the basis to set the color, contrast, black levels, tint, etc. on your new set?


Would it had been advantageous to use a HDMI switch box like I did so to feed several different inputs without having the need to go through all those devices you mentioned? I noticed absolutely no loss of vividness when setting that up.


Also, the Golden Globes as you described it was what I meant - a more life like picture caused by that dimensional feel plus more minute detail.


Will not deny that flat screens do have a slight edge in overall picture sharpness and it up to the way each individual feel's if that sharper image is better than a more lifelike one overall.


----------



## Warbird7

Yes DSperber, we are depending on you.


Its been a fun ride, almost a love affair with the XBR960.

We have always heard, and known with our eyes, that we had the best picture and best performance.


I still feel spoiled every time I watch her, eight years on.

A rare and wonderful feeling in this life.


But someday, we will have to move on.

The question is when, and will it be as fun.


We need to to know if the VT50 is worthy of a shift in our devotion.

And if she can perform as well?


----------



## DSperber

Still a work-in-progress.


Finally got in touch with a great cabinet maker who'd done work for me in three separate rooms a long time ago, in order to "build me a wall" in what was just a "hole in the wall" (where my old 35" Mits used to live). Today was the day he came out to actually do the preliminary construction, so I'm now one day in.


Still have to finish installing the rest of the wall mount itself, painting the wood black (so that it looks "invisible" behind when the TV is extended away from the wall), and then of course actually putting the TV up on the mount.


Here is some progress footage of how this all started with the original 35" Mits still in the wall hole, how things got mapped out for the new 65VT50 to replace it, and right up to how we left things at the end of today with the wall mount installed (which still has to have its bracket slid left 8" to get the Panny centered where I want it).


More as the saga continues.


----------



## Floydage

Deja vu I have the same type of architecture to my living room with the fireplace, vaulted ceiling, and entertainment center cubby hole to the right. My cubby hole base is an extension of the 16" high fireplace brick hearth.


----------



## airscapes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7700_100#post_22844367
> 
> 
> Still have to finish installing the rest of the wall mount itself, painting the wood black (so that it looks "invisible" behind when the TV is extended away from the wall), and then of course actually putting the TV up on the mount.



Consider using Triple black velvet rather than paint.. Nothing soaks up light better.
http://www.syfabrics.com/View.aspx/Plush-Triple-Velvet/Black-Plush-Velvet/681/264 

I just ordered 10 yards of the stuff from the above dealer to make a masking system for a projection screen. However you could probably get it locally at Joann Fabric or whatever you have out on the left coast. You probably need less than 2 yards, a can of 3M 44 spray adhesive and that back becomes a black hole!


If you don't have the tools to do a full calibration on your set ( it is worth doing) give my friend Ray a call, he is local to you and THX certified.
http://socalht.com/


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *airscapes*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7710#post_22847575
> 
> 
> Consider using Triple black velvet rather than paint.. Nothing soaks up light better.
> http://www.syfabrics.com/View.aspx/Plush-Triple-Velvet/Black-Plush-Velvet/681/264
> 
> I just ordered 10 yards of the stuff from the above dealer to make a masking system for a projection screen. However you could probably get it locally at Joann Fabric or whatever you have out on the left coast. You probably need less than 2 yards, a can of 3M 44 spray adhesive and that back becomes a black hole!


Excellent idea! That's a much nicer finishing touch than simple paint on plywood.


I also think the TV is going to be further away from the "wall" (actually, that's mirror all around the cubbyhole which has now been closed up and the bracket mounted) than I'd hoped or planned. I thought it would be possible to push it back right up against the mirror, but because of the HDMI cable which needs to connect on the left edge, and also because of the 3/4" recess of that facing plywood inside the cubbyhole itself from the very outer front of the opening (i.e. where the mirror surface defines the "outer front") and the general width of the metal on the bracket, the mount and the TV may actually have to permanently live somewhat extended from the mount's fully collapsed thickness of just 1.5".


In other words, I think that black opening may just always be "visible", so doing it in "attractive but invisible black velvet" is a terrific idea. I'll send it on to my cabinet guy, who has yet to complete the work or arrange for the painter, etc.



> Quote:
> If you don't have the tools to do a full calibration on your set ( it is worth doing) give my friend Ray a call, he is local to you and THX certified.
> http://socalht.com/


I've arranged with Jeff Meier to do the calibration in early February when his next LA tour is scheduled.


But thanks for the suggestion. I also considered David Abrams (local LA) and D-Nice (somewhere else) and Gregg Liewen (LionAV, also somewhere else), all of whom are also highly regarded by AVS'rs over on the VT50 thread. But eventually just decided to go with Jeff.


----------



## airscapes

You would have been thrilled with any of them and it is going to look fantastic.

As for your HDMI connection, one of these may help as I had a similar problem and this works very well.
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041913&p_id=7702&seq=1&format=2


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *airscapes*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7710#post_22847843
> 
> 
> You would have been thrilled with any of them and it is going to look fantastic.


I'm sure I would have, and I'm sure it will.


Mostly I'm really looking forward to the true side-by-side (as you can see from the pictures) ability to compare a calibrated 65VT50 against a calibrated XBR960. Actually I really do hope I can preserve my own current PRO setup on the 960 as a third comparison, but I suspect there are some global settings that are going to have to be changed from the calibration which will result in a change to my own PRO appearance, even if I could steal VIVID for the new calibrated setup so as to preserve my PRO.


Anyway, I can only imagine that a calibrated 960 will look at least as good if not better than my own work, which didn't use meters and software but only setup discs and images (and a colored filter to look through).



> Quote:
> As for your HDMI connection, one of these may help as I had a similar problem and this works very well.
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041913&p_id=7702&seq=1&format=2


I wasn't aware of this "swivel" idea gadget.


But in the same product family I've already bought four 270-degree fixed right-angle adapters (and two of them can be clipped together to provide a full 180-degree U-turn for the cable from the HDMI connector on the edge of the VT50). Bought these (on someone's recommendation... yours?? forget) along with my original assorted length "flat HDMI cables", which I subsequently re-ordered again in "round".


I'm not as concerned about making that happen as the general concern about just how far back toward the wall/mirror I will be able to push the whole TV on its mount because the HDMI cable has to go somewhere (unless there's a cable guide UNDER the edge of the set which I can use to cheat).


Looking forward to the next phase, once the construction is complete and the TV is mounted, to see what the final cosmetics turn out to be and what I need to do to compensate if necessary.


Someday I'll be able to actually watch something on it!


----------



## Floydage

I may have to try some black velvet too (not the liquor). The inside silver edge of my Panny drives me nuts with the CRT glow reflecting off of it. I tried 'painting' it with a large black Sharpie but it's still reflective.


Speaking of reflective, that mirror is very cool looking but are background lights an issue? I have a 27" next to the Panny 34" for Cajun picture&picture (coined by Louisiana neighbor) but I cover the 27" up with a black throw blanket when it's not in use. I see "cubbyhole" rubbed off. lol


Interesting swivel gadget. I did not know.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7740#post_22848776
> 
> 
> Speaking of reflective, that mirror is very cool looking but are background lights an issue?


I never have room lights on when watching TV (or BluRay movies). Absolutely dark room... which is probably why my 960 image packs such punch. The shutters in that corner of the room are also closed if I'm watching during the day, so there's really no daylight problem either.


And even for those casual viewing situations during the day when I want the shutters open, the day light is coming in from behind my 960.


Also, the "room lights" are not floor or table lamps, but are on a track high up on a side wall. So there are no reflections from these lights anywhere from my viewing location (normally about 4-5' directly in front of the 960 screen when I'm doing serious watching), not in the mirrors nor in the 960 screen.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7740#post_22848776
> 
> 
> Interesting swivel gadget. I did not know.


What swivel gadget? Are you talking about the wall mount itself?


That's a [not cheap] Chief TS525TU, and it theoretically has an amazing 1.5" width when fully collapsed, along with a 25.5" fully extended maximum reach when pulled out from the wall. An additional FHB5017 bracket adapter is needed for the 65VT50 because of the extra-wide "wingspan" of the mounting holes on the back of the set.


It also has a 16" travel (+/- 8" off of center in each direction, left or right) for the bracket that holds the TV itself and which itself slides on a horizontal track that is part of the wall mount. This allows you to mount the whole structure on the wall where the nearest 16"-separated studs are, and then slide the whole thing holding the TV itself left or right so that you can position it on the wall wherever you want within that 16" stud-width range.


----------



## Floydage

Sorry, I should have wrote HDMI swivel gadget, the connector adapter previously mentioned. Good to know on the Chief wall mount though as my friend may need one, that Chief is pretty slick.


I figured you must have something up your sleeve as far as a dark room. I unfortunately have windows and a kitchen/dining room to the rear as well as a floor lamp for reading. My friend's LG LED flat panel is terrible for reflection, maybe the wife used glass cleaner on the screen and ruined the AR coating.


----------



## airscapes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7700_100#post_22850927
> 
> 
> My friend's LG LED flat panel is terrible for reflection, maybe the wife used glass cleaner on the screen and ruined the AR coating.



I doubt it! I walled into an HHgregg a year ago and was floored at the High Glare glass used in ALL the LCD set as well as the Laptops.. All you could see was a wall of TVs displaying the fluorescent lights and plate glass windows.. how freaking stupid.. but people don't even notice it...


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *airscapes*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7740#post_22851338
> 
> 
> I doubt it! I walled into an HHgregg a year ago and was floored at the High Glare glass used in ALL the LCD set as well as the Laptops.. All you could see was a wall of TVs displaying the fluorescent lights and plate glass windows.. how freaking stupid.. but people don't even notice it...



I was afraid of that. Hopefully I'm missing something like an electronic AR control capability. That would drive me nuts (it does at my friend's place).


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *airscapes*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7710#post_22847575
> 
> 
> Consider using Triple black velvet rather than paint.. Nothing soaks up light better.
> http://www.syfabrics.com/View.aspx/Plush-Triple-Velvet/Black-Plush-Velvet/681/264
> 
> I just ordered 10 yards of the stuff from the above dealer to make a masking system for a projection screen. However you could probably get it locally at Joann Fabric or whatever you have out on the left coast. You probably need less than 2 yards, a can of 3M 44 spray adhesive and that back becomes a black hole!


Just ordered 5 yards of this from the source you recommend. Turns out they are right here in LA (in the garment district), although they don't have a retail will-call/pickup operation. Strictly online orders.


I know, that's a lot more fabric than I need for this particular application but it looks like good stuff to have for maybe some other possible use and it was quite inexpensive. I called Mood Fabrics and they had some black crushed velvet for $25/yard so I didn't even want to drive over there to look at it. I'm sure the SyFabrics item will be perfectly acceptable given that its purpose is precisely to "disappear"!


(Via email) the cabinet maker thought it was a great idea, and would be no problem to install.


Regarding construction of this "wall"...


In its current state the whole "plywood face" can actually be slid forward inside of the 3/4" plywood frame around it, to move it forward the 3/4" it's currently recessed. That would allow it to be "flush" with the mirror itself which would then allow the wall mount itself (which then projects out from the "face" at least 1.5") to be moved over more to the left if centering (of the mounted TV) as it currently sits is not right and just sliding the bracket over on the track the available standard 8" isn't sufficient.


Also, in worst case he can even add another set of "16"-separated studs" to the framing behind the face (see the pictures) just to the left of the existing "studs", into which the four main mounting bolts are inserted through the face, so that the whole wall mounting can again be moved over significantly to the left if necessary using the new set of studs.


As I said, this was just "day #1". Now that the we've learned how the Chief mount works, and what flexibility there is with it, and where the whole thing ended up relative to where I really think it needs to be, making some adjustments shouldn't be too hard. The center-point of the mount as currently located is at the perfect vertical spot, but horizontally it's about 8 1/2" to the right of where it needs to be if I want the bracket to be centered on the track with the main bolts and to have the TV horizontally centered where it should go with the mounting bracket fully collapsed behind it.


I'm a real nut/perfectionist when it comes to this kind of stuff. Fortunately, so is the cabinet maker. And the horizontal flexibility provided by the Chief mount is also good to have for exactly this reason. Good team.


----------



## airscapes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7700_100#post_22851398
> 
> 
> I was afraid of that. Hopefully I'm missing something like an electronic AR control capability. That would drive me nuts (it does at my friend's place).



That would be nice.. but have never heard of anything like that..

You know .. I think the reflection thing is something in the way our obsessive perfectionist brains are wired.. I put a new site finished hardwood floor in my kitchen and I used a high gloss finish (which I like but... ). All I see is the imperfections in my finish rather than the wood... Wife is like "What are you talking about, the wood looks beautiful, I don't see any scratches" .. me.."NO NO in the reflection, see the fine sanding scratches! "


----------



## Floydage

No, I'm trying to view the 'pure' image produced on the screen, not stuff reflected in the background of the room. But yes to smudges and scratches on the screen itself.


----------



## airscapes

My point being, nuts like us notice stuff other don't.. and yes reflection on a screen sucks.. I don't want to look at the condition of the finish on the floor but I can't stop fixating on it!!
















Yet another reason I prefer front projections.. but alas.. it comes with another set of obsessions!


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hey Desperber,


That set up looks like it's going to be a beaut. Congratulations.


And let us know of the side by side comparison - but recognize you're bound to be blown away by the size differential no matter what the quality of the picture itself might be. Does your new set have 3D?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7740#post_22861542
> 
> 
> That set up looks like it's going to be a beaut. Congratulations.


Yes, the VT50 plasmas are supposed to be the new "reference" sets, so I'm very much looking forward to having one (and having it calibrated for optimal performance). It certainly looked stunning in the store.



> Quote:
> And let us know of the side by side comparison - but recognize you're bound to be blown away by the size differential no matter what the quality of the picture itself might be.


I think I can eliminate the size factor in my side-by-side evaluation. I will be much more affected by any obvious differences (if any) in color, brightness, contrast, black, and sharpness.



> Quote:
> Does your new set have 3D?


Yes. And this should prove to be quite exciting, but I don't have any prior experience to compare to. Brand new world.


----------



## airscapes

Will you be having the CRT calibrated at the same time as the VT50? No way to make any useful comparison if you don't.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *airscapes*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7740#post_22862328
> 
> 
> Will you be having the CRT calibrated at the same time as the VT50? No way to make any useful comparison if you don't.


Yes. Both are being done the same day.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7740#post_22861962
> 
> 
> Yes, the VT50 plasmas are supposed to be the new "reference" sets, so I'm very much looking forward to having one (and having it calibrated for optimal performance). It certainly looked stunning in the store.
> 
> I think I can eliminate the size factor in my side-by-side evaluation. I will be much more affected by any obvious differences (if any) in color, brightness, contrast, black, and sharpness.
> 
> Yes. And this should prove to be quite exciting, but I don't have any prior experience to compare to. Brand new world.



HiDSperber,


Had my first experience with the latest 3D technology about two weeks ago and have to admit, I loved it.


The problem is that I don't want to sit back and watch Yogi Bear or so many of the action flicks that really have nothing else going for them but 3D. Those that are entertaining on their own I already have so it would also mean buying the same movie over.


Too bad there isn't more programming on cable but I think it is a very expensive financial undertaking for both the production and cable companies and suspect if there is more programming down the road, most of it is going to be for an extra charge.


Would be curious as to the 2D to 3D conversion, especially on sports. If your set has it, could you let me know if it is worth the extra money?


----------



## Syllogistic

Hi all. I know similar things have been discussed earlier in the thread but I couldn't find a specific answer.


I'm thinking of buying a secondhand KVHR36, which I believe is basically the same as the US XBR960 except that it does not have any digital inputs. I'll be using the TV mainly for playing DVD, Blu-ray and live TV from my HTPC. My HTPC has an NVIDIA GTX660 card which has DVI-I, HDMI and Displayport outputs. So I'm wondering what is the best way to get video out of the HTPC into the component inputs of the TV. I know you can get HDMI to component converter boxes but I'm not sure about their quality and I'm not sure whether there's another way.


My second question is about Blu-ray playback. Obviously the KVHR36/XBR960 can't take 1080p signals, so I'll need to use 1080i or 720p. But can the TV do proper 24p playback? For example, on my plasma, I would usually set the resolution to 1920x1080 @ 23.976Hz, but I'm not sure whether, say, 1280x720 @ 23.976 would work on the XBR960.


Finally, can anyone directly compare the XBR960 with an XBR8? I can get secondhand versions of both but obviously the XBR8 will be much more expensive. All I care about is picture quality, particularly for Blu-ray playback. I know the XBR8 is technically higher resolution but will it really be much better than the XBR960 in terms of noticeable detail etc? For reference, I've had a Panasonic ST50 and VT30 recently and haven't been particularly happy with either (IR and uniformity issues being the main problems).


Thanks for any advice.


EDIT: Doing a bit more reading, it looks like the KVHR at least supports RGBHV, which means I should just be able to use a straight VGA -> RGBHV cable, I think. Also doing more reading, it looks like 24Hz is too low for a CRT to handle properly, so I assume I would need to try 48Hz or 72Hz if supported. I'm not sure if this is possible and/or would make a visible difference on a CRT compared with 60hz for Blu-ray playback.


----------



## DSperber

The Eagle Has Landed.

 


I am truly stunned by the picture on the 65VT50, set to out-of-the-box CUSTOM (factory preset, with zero tweaking so far, not even choosing PRO).


It is being fed from my HDTV source (DMA2100) through the external HDMI input of the Oppo BDP-103 set to "AUTO". So the Oppo's wonderful video circuity (applicable to its HDMI-1 output, which is going to my Yamaha RX-V867 and then on out to both (1) 65VT50 and (2) Sony XBR960) is upconverting 720p/1080i to 1080p (as long as I have the Sony turned off).


So for HDTV, the Panny is seeing 1080p/60 4:4:4 24bit color from the Oppo... AND IT IS STUNNING!


I've also looked at "Toy Story 3" (2D) BluRay, which is being sent at 1080p/24. THIS IS EVEN MORE STUNNING! I've never seen such a film-like image on any TV. I think it's the 24fps which is doing that, of course couples with 1080p.


Maybe it's not fair to compare just yet (since I'm only about five hours into "operational"), but its large size and unbelievable picture make me truly feel like I'm in a movie theater.


THIS IS FANTASTIC!


----------



## jhirsche

So you're waiting a few hundred hours for calibration right? This is exactly how we felt when we got our 65VT50... wife went from disapproving to awe struck after a few minutes relaxing in front of the VT. 'Tis simply amazing.. coming from our Chad B calibrated XBR960...


----------



## Floydage

Sweet! Looks about 4 or 5 times my Picture&Picture setup of the main TV (my 2nd TV isn't that much smaller than the 1st). If I recall correctly that Chief wall mount gives you some pretty good turning angles.


I'm so far behind the times I had to look up some of those support device models in your 2nd pgh. I feel like I'm on the wrong MB.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7740#post_22876553
> 
> 
> The Eagle Has Landed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am truly stunned by the picture on the 65VT50, set to out-of-the-box CUSTOM (factory preset, with zero tweaking so far, not even choosing PRO).
> 
> 
> It is being fed from my HDTV source (DMA2100) through the external HDMI input of the Oppo BDP-103 set to "AUTO". So the Oppo's wonderful video circuity (applicable to its HDMI-1 output, which is going to my Yamaha RX-V867 and then on out to both (1) 65VT50 and (2) Sony XBR960) is upconverting 720p/1080i to 1080p (as long as I have the Sony turned off).
> 
> 
> So for HDTV, the Panny is seeing 1080p/60 4:4:4 24bit color from the Oppo... AND IT IS STUNNING!
> 
> 
> I've also looked at "Toy Story 3" (2D) BluRay, which is being sent at 1080p/24. THIS IS EVEN MORE STUNNING! I've never seen such a film-like image on any TV. I think it's the 24fps which is doing that, of course couples with 1080p.
> 
> 
> Maybe it's not fair to compare just yet (since I'm only about five hours into "operational"), but its large size and unbelievable picture make me truly feel like I'm in a movie theater.
> 
> 
> THIS IS FANTASTIC!



Hi DSperber,


Looks awesome so far - in retrospect, was the 960 too small for that room? And so glad you are happy with it - but true, wait a bit before making the final comparison to the 960 only because you are so overwhelmed by it right now and have to compensate for the obvious big screen effect in the home. And please - for us less technical people - give it to us in English! so we'll know what you're talking about!










From the side by side comparison, it seems the colors, brightness and sharpness match, but of course, it is hard to really decipher things from a photo. Anything hidden on one screen that you notice on the other?


Also, please let me know about the 2D to3D conversion for I love having toys but don't want to spend the time with the 3D glasses watching movies programmed to that age group.


Again, congrats, good luck and enjoy!


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7740#post_22883921
> 
> 
> Hi DSperber,
> 
> 
> Looks awesome so far


Had my first opportunity to really watch something today... Bill Maher's "Realtime" from HBO (1080i source) and the Ladies' Finals at the Australian Open from ESPN (720p source).


Remember, both source programs are being delivered from my DMA2100 (i.e. my DVR-equivalent for my HTPC) in their "native" resolution of 720p or 1080i, fed via HDMI to my Oppo BDP-103 set to "AUTO" which senses that the connected HDTV can receive 1080p. So the Oppo is upconverting the input source to an output of 1080p, and doing a truly STUNNING job of it.


The Oppo QDEO video "magic" also somehow punches up the whole picture coming out, so everything looks "cleaner" and "brighter/sharper" and "more colorful" even on the 960. This is simply a SUPER BluRay/universal player, and adding external HDMI inputs makes it unbeatable.


Gotta say, I've never seen a picture like this. It's of course BIG, and so the people and faces and images on the 65" screen really do look like they're real. But mostly, it's stunningly film-like. Black is remarkable, white is remarkable, contrast is remarkable, color is accurate and remarkable, and the wonderful "computer blue" color of the Australian Open hard-court surface looks amazing.



> Quote:
> - in retrospect, was the 960 too small for that room?


Of course it was. Always knew that.


But I've had no problem sitting 4 feet from the 960 for years, right there at the corner of my bed... either sitting on the carpet or rolling over an easy chair. It wasn't really meant to be a "home theater" screen. It was simply the best HDTV of its day, and I bought it to replace my prior 34" Sampo (the best HDTV of ITS day, 3 years ealier) which had just died. And I had the table for it, and it was approximately identical in size and weight to the Sampo, so it seemed like the right choice.


And besides, I also had the old 35" Mits built into that wall cubbyhole and never expected to change that because of the cubbyhole size, wall, and mirror issues., and the general "decorating" considerations. And even though I rarely used that old 35" SD TV anymore, it still seemed "cosmetically appropriate" for the construction which had been built around it a long time ago.


It was only last month after wandering over to the TV store to see the 84" UltraHD 4K Sony that I suddenly got the impulse to do all of this, and figured out what had to be done to "wall mount" a large panel in what really was now just a "hole in the wall" behind it.



> Quote:
> And so glad you are happy with it - but true, wait a bit before making the final comparison to the 960 only because you are so overwhelmed by it right now and have to compensate for the obvious big screen effect in the home.
> 
> 
> From the side by side comparison, it seems the colors, brightness and sharpness match, but of course, it is hard to really decipher things from a photo. Anything hidden on one screen that you notice on the other?


Yeah, I just can't get flash-less pictures from my camera to show the same colors in the image that I see with my eyes. Still working on perfecting that technique.


But today I did exactly what you just asked about, using that Australian Open match as the experiment, because it looked so stunning on the VT50. And amazingly, THE COLORS MATCH! This probably says more about my tweak/setup on the 960 than anything else, given that I've never had it professionally ISF calibrated (as I will have done in three weeks, along with the same for the VT50).


Note that when turning on the 960 (which is fed from HDMI-2 of my Yamaha RX-V867 AVR, with HDMI-1 going to the VT50) the Oppo re-handshakes for HDMI and discovers (with AUTO still set) that it now must send out 1080i to both sets, since 1080i is the highest resolution supported by the 960. This results in a somewhat degraded picture, since that means interlacing must now be inserted along with the upconversion to 1080i whereas the 720p source was not interlaced. So the Sony displayed that 1080i fine of course, and the VT50 accepted 1080i and internally upconverted it to 1080p for display (since 1080p is its native display resolution).


I then changed the output of the Oppo to be 720p (to match the 720p source), since the 960 does a great job with 720p input and I was curious to see how the VT50 did with direct 720p input. Again, the VT50 internally upconverted the source 720p to 1080p for display.


So I had a number of combinations to visually compare (at least based on memory for each set's appearance, and also both sets side-by-side for the same Oppo output). I'd have to say that the Oppo BDP-103 does the best job of upconverting anything given to it to 1080p, rather than asking the VT50 to do that conversion to 1080p for display.


And given a 720p source, there's no question the 960 does a better job of upconverting/interlacing it for its own display than having the Oppo upconvert 720p to 1080i to feed the 960 (and VT50).


All in all, you don't really want both sets on at the same time to genuinely watch anything... other than for this kind of side-by-side comparison.


But what I really wanted to see in the side-by-side comparison was (a) how do colors match, and (b) how does brightness/contrast and "punch" match. And as I said earlier, THE COLORS MATCH. Remarkable to me, really.


However there's no question there is much more "punch" to everything presented on the VT50, as if BOTH brightness and contrast were increased together. Amazingly, skin tone looks MORE REAL on the VT50, even though the "color" is essentially identical on both sets. I suspect it also has a lot to do with screen size.


I have a feeling I'm not going to be watching the 960 ever again, and that's most likely a certainty after the calibration to both sets gets done in 3 weeks. We'll see. But I'm now "a convert". I'm a "true believer". This is the best HDTV picture I've ever seen.


(My nephew insists I go out to see "The Hobbitt" in the 48fps HFR 3D version, if I really want to see something which will shake me up in terms of old-fashioned movie/image/video/HDTV expectations about what all things visual are supposed to look like).



> Quote:
> Also, please let me know about the 2D to3D conversion for I love having toys but don't want to spend the time with the 3D glasses watching movies programmed to that age group.


I will very likely explore this.


But yesterday, in honor of the occasion, I ordered (1) Avatar, (2) Brave, and (3) Up, all in 3D+BluRay versions, just so that I can have something to demonstrate to myself what true 1080p 3D looks like on this set.


It's all cost me a fortune so far, but the audio/video upgrades I've decided to invest in this past year definitely have EXCEEDED my expectations in terms of "price/performance" benefit, i.e. enjoyment increase per dollar spent. And this most recent equipment upgrade has provided an incremental improvement I couldn't have predicted:


(a) Oppo BDP-103 with 720p/1080i HDTV fed through its HDMI input, coming out as upconverted 1080p when viewing on the 65VT50 now but previously when sending 720p/1080i "native" to the 960, and


(b) Panny 65VT50, which is simply the best "film-like" picture I've ever seen, especially when feeding it true 1080p source from a BluRay movie.


I really bought the Oppo for audio reasons, to be able to decode DD5.1 HDTV audio to LPCM out over HDMI for feeding to my external audio system (Realiser, headphones, etc.). But I was unprepared for what a fantastic job it's done on "improving" video.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi DS,


Hey, you're getting a lot of us jealous - but it's quite interesting that the oppo is used for the up-converting and does a better job than the Panny's.


And anybody who appreciates Bill Maher is OK in my book!


You are going to enjoy the 3D but even I have to question whether or not I want to sit around wearing those special glasses because often I do multi-tasking and watch picture in picture.


----------



## Floydage

Interesting! I've wondered if interlace artifacts are passed through regardless of conversion when the original source material is interlace? (ex: 1080i ATSC broadcast or 480i DVD). So is the display device the actual culprit? Making me wonder if a 960 with its 720p mode (native?) would be worthwhile since my similar genre Panny only supports 1080i for HD (480p for ED).


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi DS,


When you give us the final results of your comparison, can you include what I call "depth"? By that, although both sets are two-dimensional, the 960 does make video appear as there is some sort of depth instead of everything being on top of each other. On the big flat screens that I have seen (mostly LCD, however) everything is on top of each other. On "Ellen" it appeared as if she and her guest were almost part of the wallpaper. It was hard to enjoy the show, quite honestly. Same with sports.


It wasn't a problem with films. Movies are projected onto a flat screen and I felt the large flat LCD screen recreated that affect quite well.


How is it with plasma?


----------



## PACIFICMAN

Hello, I recently picked up a KV34 XBR 960. It functions, however, the display is dis colored on both right and left edges. it is primarily purple, but, it varies depending on the color of the image.

Two questions: Is this fixable via the service menu? How does one decipher the codes to make the adjustments? It was free so... But I do want to save it, if possible. I have a KV34 XBR 800 that I did the IC replacements on, thanks to advice from on here, it works Great! But I would like to upgrade to the 960 if i can make it right. Thanks in advance!


----------



## PACIFICMAN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PACIFICMAN*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7740#post_22906595
> 
> 
> Hello, I recently picked up a KD34 XBR 960. It functions, however, the display is dis colored on both right and left edges. it is primarily purple, but, it varies depending on the color of the image.
> 
> Two questions: Is this fixable via the service menu? How does one decipher the codes to make the adjustments? It was free so... But I do want to save it, if possible. I have a KV34 XBR 800 that I did the IC replacements on, thanks to advice from on here, it works Great! But I would like to upgrade to the 960 if i can make it right. Thanks in advance!



I am adding these photos of the display, they speak for themselves....   [IMG


----------



## airscapes

Looks like discoloration do to a magnetic field... Could have been stored with speaker next to it or maybe you have unshielded speaker near it? Can't see from the picture.


----------



## PACIFICMAN

I believe that is correct. Is this fixable? I am not real savvy in this area....


----------



## PACIFICMAN

It is not near magnets, the degaussing(?) Whomp sound occurs on start up. Can the speakers do this?


----------



## Floydage

Move any unshielded external speakers away from it. It may go away as you use it and it degausses on power-up. There may also be a manual degauss/geomagnetic-correct in a menu. DON'T do it too often (or power-up/down fast) as the degauss circuit needs time to cool off, probably 30 minutes.


----------



## PACIFICMAN

OK, Great. Any idea on how locate a degauss option? I don't see it any easy access menu. When I open the "Service" menu I can't really understand the format, it is all numeric codes, apparently.


----------



## airscapes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PACIFICMAN*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7700_100#post_22907323
> 
> 
> OK, Great. Any idea on how locate a degauss option? I don't see it any easy access menu. When I open the "Service" menu I can't really understand the format, it is all numeric codes, apparently.



If you have the option, it is someplace in the user menu, not the service menu.


----------



## PACIFICMAN

Yeah, not in the user menu as far as I can tell.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PACIFICMAN*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7770#post_22907323
> 
> 
> Any idea on how locate a degauss option? I don't see it any easy access menu.


There is no manual way to initiate degaussing once the set is on.


The "pop" you hear ALWAYS occurs when the set is powered on, and is the automatic degaussing which is designed to always be performed at power-on. No way to prevent it, and no way to request it... other than as an automatic result of normal power-on.



Those images are much more severely impaired than I would expect from magnetic fields of nearby non-shielded speakers... unless they are really huge. This is not an ordinary problem solved with a simple power-on degauss.


But if you aren't running some large electric motor right next to your TV that is putting off an enormous and oddly shaped magnetic field, I'd say your set is seriously in need of service. Something's going on back there with the picture tube, and some kind of effect on the R/G/B guns, for the color to be so off on so large an area and so uniformly and not a "corner flare" or something more common.


It may be difficult for you to find a local competent TV repair person anymore, but you could try phoning Sony and ask for an authorized service technician... either directly from them to arrange, or someone on their list who's located near you.


----------



## PACIFICMAN

Killer of dreams....


----------



## PACIFICMAN

Seriously, Thanks for the input. I think I am going to call it.


----------



## DSperber





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *airscapes*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7710#post_22847575
> 
> 
> Consider using Triple black velvet rather than paint.. Nothing soaks up light better.
> http://www.syfabrics.com/View.aspx/Plush-Triple-Velvet/Black-Plush-Velvet/681/264
> 
> I just ordered 10 yards of the stuff from the above dealer to make a masking system for a projection screen. However you could probably get it locally at Joann Fabric or whatever you have out on the left coast. You probably need less than 2 yards, a can of 3M 44 spray adhesive and that back becomes a black hole!


Finally finished the cosmetic layer, applying that very black velvet you suggested (and that I bought as well) to the painted plywood face.


Rather than using spray-adhesive, or even liquid glue/paste/adhesive, we just went with 2-sided tape! I had bought the spray-adhesive as well as wallpaper paste (being unable to find liquid adhesive at Home Depot), but when the cabinet guy and painter assistant cut the fabric they decided 2-sided tape would provide the best result to get the velvet held down smoothly and securely. The TV was dismounted and the wall mount removed completely one more time, in order to apply the velvet to the entire face uniformly. Then holes were cut in the velvet to overlap with the cable-grommet, and the four main wall mount bolts, and the velvet was applied. Then the wall mount was re-mounted (hopefully) one final time and the TV and cables re-attached.


So that's how it got done. Of course I kick myself for just not thinking about taking one final photo of the "wall" with the black velvet applied, because it was such a DEEP BLACK color that the black grill cloth on the speaker enclosure cover below (that goes down to the floor) now almost looks gray by comparison. But it's really that the grill cloth is black, and the black velvet is "below black". It's truly light-absorbent and non-reflective, and just vanishes. Quite remarkable the difference between "black" and "below black" (which is also a concept relevant to setting "brightness" when tweaking the 960!).


Anyway, here's the final tweaks, aside from the black velvet face.

 


Note that the final resting place for the wall mount is about 8" to the left of where it originally was placed on the unfinished plywood face. This was too far right, and I needed it moved left 8". That required a second pair of studs to be added to the interior framing, and then the plywood face reattached (primed, and with grommet hole for cables cut out). Then the plywood was painted black and the wall mount installed in its proper location. And the rest you now know and have seen.


----------



## airscapes

I will be calibrating an 960 tomorrow, I have never seen one so it should be fun!


----------



## Ratman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PACIFICMAN*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7770#post_22909745
> 
> 
> Seriously, Thanks for the input. I think I am going to call it.


Have you tried the "hard" power reset as suggested in the thread you started?
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1455625/kd34xbr960-is-there-a-manual-degauss-option-how


----------



## airscapes

Just got back from a 6 hour calibrations session on a 960 and it turned out real nice.

The customer had 2 speakers sitting right up against it as he was trying to move his surround sound system into the room For the short time he had them there it left green/purple marks but no where near as bad as PACIFICMAN's. After a few power power cycles it had started to clear but was still there..

If PACIFICMAN''s was caused by speaker it may take some time to clear.. but I have to wonder if it isn't something more..


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PACIFICMAN*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7740#post_22907102
> 
> 
> It is not near magnets, the degaussing(?) Whomp sound occurs on start up. Can the speakers do this?



Hi Pacifcman,


Two questions.


1) Is the 960 plugged directly into the wall socket or using a surge protector? I was told by a Sony service rep many years ago that the set must be plugged into the wall socket so the degausser gets the full power necessary to work (surge protectors or extension cords reduce the power coming in).


2) Also try unplugging the set for at least five minutes. After a while discoloration appears on the corners of my set as well and unplugging the set for five minutes gets rid of it.


Also, it would be good practice to unplug the 960 for five minutes every few weeks anyway for I notice that over a few weeks there is slight loss of the picture's "punch" which is restored by keeping it unplugged for a short time.


Hope this helps.


Joe


----------



## Floydage

I forgot about #1. I've got one of those fancier 'high joule' strips but I'll have to try that on my Panny; gonna be fun trying to reach the nearest outlet though, hopefully my high-current extension cord will suffice (for window AC units, etc.). The corners are a little off but one really bothers me as it's stronger and reddish (the others are bluish). That side of the set has a crack in the plastic so I assumed it was mishandled once (was a Kenwood car audio distributor marketing show set). Maybe a tube magnet got dislodged. I haven't been able to get myself motivated enough to remove the mass quantity of screws and wrestle with getting the cover off assuming it'll come off whilst sitting on the stand (I assume they do on these monsters for easier serviceability).


----------



## iforsevilla

An update, 6 months past my power chip repair (getting 6-7 blinking on standby lite.) my 960 started to act up again. This time it was the red screen with horizontal lines and the the eventual shut off problem. Getting the 7 blinking on the standby lite again. I thought the chip I repaired went bad again. So I swap it out with the extra chips I had and aparently it was not it. I was able to start the TV its just that I get the red screeen. Unlike before it will not start at all. Did some more digging on the issue and found it to be one of the 3 color video chip TDA6120Q. Luckily the red was on the right end for easy access. At first I was afraid that it might be the tube itself cause I can get it going after 10-30 start ups. But the red is all over the images-like a ghost. I put up with this for a few months and finally today I decided to change the chip $7--US seller. You can get one for $6 shipped coming from China but I did not have the patience to wait 2 months. Anyways, much like the first repair almost a year ago now, IT WAS A SUCCESS! If anyone gets this issue, there is hope and easily fixable. The Beautiful picture this TV puts out is back again in full glory!. Very happy!


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi If,


Hey, I recall you replacing a chip about a year ago and glad you were able to again. Obviously you know your electronics and can determine what chip you need to replace. What cost you less than ten dollars a service repairman would have charged us probably $200.


Glad it's all working out again.


----------



## Floydage

Hey are you guys able to take the back off these and do this repair without moving the TV off a stand? I'm curious in the event I ever get one and have this problem.


Of course the 'modern' reality of this for the less technically-adventurous is to send the beast for recycling and buy another one off Craigslist for $50-100. Lots of inconvenient and heavy moving though.


----------



## dshepard

Yes the back can be removed easily. I recently did the blinking red light chip replacement. The instructions were a piece of cake. I had to buy a solder sucker and had done electronics repair in the Marine Corps 30 years ago so I was familiar with the process. $40 for parts and tools. Not bad, although I was drooling over a new Panasonic Plasma. After fixing the 960 I couldn't justify buying a new tv YET!


----------



## iforsevilla

Jo,


Thanks. The repair was fairly easy much like the first one. Actually even easier due to its location --- its the circuit board attached to the end of the tube. Anyways, tech folks mentioned that this TDA6120Q fails not only on sony tvs but many other brands too. Many folks think that their TV is dead once they start seeing just a red, blue or green screen, but most of the time it is just this chip that needs changing and it will be good as new again. Later. Here is a link with pix for those who maybe facing the same issue.. http://www.avsforum.com/t/1359208/sony-34xbr800-screen-goes-bright-red-then-off


----------



## kelsosfriend

My 960 needs a good home. Free to whoever will come get it in the Kansas City area.


----------



## DSperber

Finally got to watch a high-quality BluRay movie last night ("Footnote", superb Israeli film) with stunning video and audio.


First time watching 1080p/24 on my 65VT50 from my Oppo BDP-103 player (sharpness at +1, per 103 owner's thread consensus until Oppo decides on +0 issue), as compared to the 1080i/30 via Oppo BDP-93 and BDP-83 I've been watching on my 960 for all these years.


ABSOLUTELY STUNNING!!! Just like "going to the movies" in my all-dark bedroom "home theater"! Truly like film. Perfection! Jaw droppingly gorgeous.


The picture is similarly remarkable with 1080i "live" HDTV (upconverted/"cleaned" to 1080p by the BDP-103 and its QDEO chip), fed from external HDMI input through the 103 coming from my DVR. Perfect.


I'm NOT using the ISF calibration settings I had done last week, not really caring for the results. I have a second calibration appointment (with a different provider) scheduled for next week, and hopefully I'll be more satisfied. But for now I'm using what I believe to be PERFECTION (or visually close to it)... i.e. Panny's factory CUSTOM to start (like Pro with the 960, i.e. everything at ZERO/Flat/OFF) and just an adjustment to brightness and contrast set by using my DVE and S&M "tweak" setup BluRays. Panny factory COLOR=50, TINT=0 along with ColorTemp=COOL1 (rather than ColorTemp=NORMAL) produces absolutely perfect color to my eyes (and the color filters with the setup discs). I've used the COOL temperature forever on the 960 as well and probably have just gotten used to it as what I prefer.


This 65" plasma is absolutely what you want if you ever have to (or want to) replace your 960. Panasonic has announced the more expensive ZT60 and updated VT60 families for 2013, so prices on this year's VT50 products will be dropping.


In my opinion there is no comparison at all between the plasma image vs. LCD/LED images even against the most current high-end models. The whole look and appearance of the plasma image is like the 960's CRT image, with all the 3D-like realism and depth I've come to expect. You can watch it from any place in the room, with no brightness dropoff from 0-angle... just like with a CRT. Coming from the 960 CRT, this feature is absolutely priceless. Even during the day, with sunlight coming into the room (not shining on the screen)... the plasma image seems even better than with the 960, retaining its inherent brightness. Just terrific.


Cannot praise the 65VT50 enough. What a joy.


----------



## airscapes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7700_100#post_23006427
> 
> 
> I'm NOT using the ISF calibration settings I had done last week, not really caring for the results. I have a second calibration appointment (with a different provider) scheduled for next week, and hopefully I'll be more satisfied. But for now I'm using what I believe to be PERFECTION (or visually close to it)... i.e. Panny's factory CUSTOM to start (like Pro with the 960, i.e. everything at ZERO/Flat/OFF) and just an adjustment to brightness and contrast set by using my DVE and S&M "tweak" setup BluRays. Panny factory COLOR=50, TINT=0 along with ColorTemp=COOL1 (rather than ColorTemp=NORMAL) produces absolutely perfect color to my eyes (and the color filters with the setup discs). I've used the COOL temperature forever on the 960 as well and probably have just gotten used to it as what I prefer.


So who did the calibration for you? You posted up above in this thread that Jeff M was going to do, did he? If he did, and you don't like the image, then you don't like an accurate display and don't waste your money having someone else do it.

Now if this was not Jeff, and someone like BB Geeak Squad, then I would expect it to be very messed up.


BTW, your eyes have no idea what perfect color is, that is why they make $20,000 meters to measure the light spectrum.. Calibration is not about what you like, it is about seeing what was seen when the content was mastered. There are no calibration police, if you like the way it looks don't bother having it calibrated.

Why TVs are not calibrated from the factory.. THX Instructor blog
http://www.tlvexp.ca/2011/12/why-tvs-are-not-calibrated-from-factory/


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *airscapes*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7770#post_23006706
> 
> 
> So who did the calibration for you? You posted up above in this thread that Jeff M was going to do, did he? If he did, and you don't like the image, then you don't like an accurate display and don't waste your money having someone else do it.
> 
> Now if this was not Jeff, and someone like BB Geeak Squad, then I would expect it to be very messed up.


Yes, it was Jeff who did the calibration. It was not BB.


I don't want to get too far OT on this 960 thread, but I'll be more than happy to share the before/after calibration report PDF for my VT50 with you via PM, showing what he actually saw when he started vs. what he accomplished and how things look when he left. I really think the reason I'm not "satisfied" is because the results are "objectively not perfect and accurate", and just don't look "subjectively natural". I honestly feel he didn't do the best possible job on my VT50 (compared to similar before/after calibration reports I've seen others post on the VT50 threads), but that's obviously just my opinion.


Also, he opted out of trying to calibrate my 960, explaining that "there's something wrong with your set that I've never seen before, and I know all about what can be done with the service menu and I can't correct it". I don't want to editorialize further than to say I really don't buy that. Anyway, he decided didn't want to touch my 960, so that was that. I wasn't happy.



> Quote:
> BTW, your eyes have no idea what perfect color is, that is why they make $20,000 meters to measure the light spectrum.


I don't dispute that.



> Quote:
> Calibration is not about what you like, it is about seeing what was seen when the content was mastered. There are no calibration police, if you like the way it looks don't bother having it calibrated.


Well, I've just completed watching some indoor and night-beach volleyball sessions, from the London Olympics, both of which to my eyes are venues which were absolutely perfectly lit with proper HDTV-friendly light, both for indoors and night-outdoors, both for hardwood blond floors as well as for beach sand.


And whether it is "perfect" or not, the colors rendered by Jeff's ISF (and several other "generic" user-posted VT50 setups) are simply "wrong" to my eyes. They are not colors I see when going to a Lakers game and seeing the floor color or on the team clothing. Watching through my Custom setup (again, pure un-customized FLAT/ZERO/OFF for everything but with Contrast=78 and Brightness=56 and with color "influenced" by ColorTemp=Cool1 rather than ColorTemp=Warm1)... well that just looks like I'm right there at the venue watching with my own eyes.


And it's the same thing with other "live" 1080i programs (e.g. Oscars tonight) and film (e.g. 1080p/24 from BluRay).


And it's the same thing watching "Frozen Planet". My colors for snow, polar bears, etc., seem more "natural"


Obviously, this is subjective... and my eyes are not colorimeters. That's just my taste.


Anyway, I have David Abrams coming out next week for a second calibration, and I'm sure the discussion will be interesting. David says he has lots of experience with the 960 as well, so we'll see how that one goes.


Just in passing, I've privately communicated with another AVS member on the VT50 threads who also had Jeff come out and do his ISF calibration, and he too is having a "second opinion" performed, making arrangements for Chad B to pay a visit for another ISF calibration for him and his VT50 as well. Hmmm..


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi Ds,


So glad to know you're very happy with your new Plasma and that it has the life-like picture that we are used to with the 960. We've been watching some of the Oscar's tonight and to be honest, the picture on the 960 is still breathtaking and natural - after all these years.


Agree with you about the LCD/LED picture - very pretty but not natural at all - almost like looking through a silk screen than a window.


Have you watched 3D yet and the converted 2D to 3D process? With the LCDs, in order to get the proper 3D effect, one has to stay relatively close to center. I saw how it diminishes once a viewer goes past let us say a 33 degree angle from center. How much flexibility do you get with the plasma? Don't rush to find out on my account - it's more curiosity than anything else with the 3D. Just be sure you don't get headaches from the glasses - many do after awhile.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7770#post_23006427
> 
> 
> Panny factory COLOR=50, TINT=0 along with ColorTemp=COOL1 (rather than ColorTemp=NORMAL) produces absolutely perfect color to my eyes (and the color filters with the setup discs). I've used the COOL temperature forever on the 960 as well and probably have just gotten used to it as what I prefer.



That could be your problem right there, especially after I read the other post about snow and polar bears. It appears you like your whites bluish. I tried that too because I have a 'too red' problem on my Panny CT-34WX50 via 480i only but I couldn't take the whites being bluish.


[My 'too red' problem is a color intensity problem as the tint is centered, something to do with this set and how it treats 480i. If anyone has any feedback on the subject I'd be glad to read it, maybe the Sonys have the same issue (CRTs optimized for ED/HD). Unfortunately I've searched and searched for service menu info for this set to no avail]


----------



## airscapes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7700_100#post_23008643
> 
> 
> That could be your problem right there, especially after I read the other post about snow and polar bears. It appears you like your whites bluish. I tried that too because I have a 'too red' problem on my Panny CT-34WX50 via 480i only but I couldn't take the whites being bluish.
> 
> 
> [My 'too red' problem is a color intensity problem as the tint is centered, something to do with this set and how it treats 480i. If anyone has any feedback on the subject I'd be glad to read it, maybe the Sonys have the same issue (CRTs optimized for ED/HD). Unfortunately I've searched and searched for service menu info for this set to no avail]



Something in the signal chain may not be doing the conversion from SD 601 gamut to the HD 709. If you are only seeing this on a signal coming from a set top box it could be that box that causing the error (assuming HD Box using HDMI connection). You can check the HDMI setting in the box for one that is call SD over ride. Change that to 480p or 480i. What this does it when you hit an SD channel, it will put out SD rather than HD. You will notice a pause when switching between HD and SD channels but the end result will be the TV does the up conversion (wait just looked that up and it is CRT so it will not upconvert but display SD which should be correct) and not the box. The box if set to SD over ride off will upconvert the ST to HD and output 1080i) I find on my projector that letting the projector do the upconvert provides a better image. With CRT there is no upconvertions as it will just display the 480i signal (not pixels so upconvertions is not needed) If you are seeing this OTA, there isn't much that can be done and could be a problem with the station not converting the signal properly.

Let us know what you find.


----------



## NeilPeart

Some interesting comments to be sure. On my Sony KD-34XS955 (similar to the 960) I have the color set to "PRO" and the offset set to "MONITOR" - this seems to agree with the discs I've used for calibration (Disney WOW, Spears & Munsil, Digital Video Essentials and Avia) as well as my reference monitor (Pioneer Kuro Elite PRO-101FD). I used the service menu to improve convergence and reduce other CRT artifacts (pin-cushion, moire, etc.). I use the DVDO Edge to make final over/under-scanning adjustments and to ensure the proper color spaces are maintained (also the Edge does a great job converting the 480i signal from my Oppo DV-980H DVD player). I used to watch Blu-rays on the Sony but now I save those for the Kuro. I will watch HD television via the Windows Media Center extender - it may not have the detail and size of the Kuro but the color and inky blacks of this CRT are still terrific. I've owned this TV since 2005 and I've never had a single issue - knock on wood, of course.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *airscapes*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7770#post_23009208
> 
> 
> Something in the signal chain may not be doing the conversion from SD 601 gamut to the HD 709. If you are only seeing this on a signal coming from a set top box it could be that box that causing the error (assuming HD Box using HDMI connection). You can check the HDMI setting in the box for one that is call SD over ride. Change that to 480p or 480i. What this does it when you hit an SD channel, it will put out SD rather than HD. You will notice a pause when switching between HD and SD channels but the end result will be the TV does the up conversion (wait just looked that up and it is CRT so it will not upconvert but display SD which should be correct) and not the box. The box if set to SD over ride off will upconvert the ST to HD and output 1080i) I find on my projector that letting the projector do the upconvert provides a better image. With CRT there is no upconvertions as it will just display the 480i signal (not pixels so upconvertions is not needed) If you are seeing this OTA, there isn't much that can be done and could be a problem with the station not converting the signal properly.
> 
> Let us know what you find.



Yeah I think it's the TV. Had the problem with DTV converter boxes, both composite and s-video. Also VCR on composite, Blu-ray/DVD player on component (no DVI or HDMI on this TV), and DVDR/player on component (but it can only input composite and s-video). It may not be as bad on component but still an issue.

OTA I'm now using an HD tuner (have two now) but recording of OTA is via the DVDR and VCR sourced by DTV converter boxes (s-video and composite, resp.).


I thought I had seen posts about folks complaining of red problems with 480i on HD CRTs, probably in the CECB forum.


Good info though for the future, thanks! Hey does that mean 960s natively display 720p? I read here that they support 720p unlike my Panny.


----------



## darenleecortez




> Quote:
> My 960 needs a good home. Free to whoever will come get it in the Kansas City area.




I know who would drive from St. Louis and take you up on that offer. *raises hand* This guy!


----------



## darenleecortez




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kelsosfriend*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7770#post_22964623
> 
> 
> My 960 needs a good home. Free to whoever will come get it in the Kansas City area.



I would love to drive to KC from St. Louis to provide a good home for your XBR. I messed up the post above ^^^ please forgive. This is my first time using the thread. Daren


----------



## JA Fant

Welcome! Daren. The 960 is a killer CRT 2nd only, and I do mean only, an older model 60" Pioneer Elite Plasma monitor.





Joe- I have had my 960 connected to a Richard Gray Pro 400 line/power conditioner since bought new in December 2005. My set has never been plugged directly into the house socket.

Never a problem w/ the degaussing. You are correct, in that, 99% of the other "conditioners" out there do steal current from your gear. The Richard Gray products and Shunyata products are unique

in their respective designers' philosphy, as they are designed to compliment one's electrical source(s).


----------



## darenleecortez

Glad to be here JA! Thanks for the welcome.


----------



## BTV Mark

With apologies for not checking this thread more often to give this suggestion...


I have some "shielded speakers" that must actually be "partially shielded" speakers, because if I move one or the other, I see the typical color impurity appear the next time I turn on the set. I found the built-in degaussing capabilities of the 960 to be only fair. My patience does not allow time for multiple cycles of start up, power down, unplug, etc., to do a complete job of removing the impurities.


However, I have had great luck degaussing various CRT's for many years, including the '960. Years ago, I bought a hand-held videotape bulk eraser. I believe Radio Shack carried it. The unit is called a Videoraser, model VX-1401. It is a very effective degausser. You turn on the TV, hold the degausser a few feet away from the TV and push the button to turn the degausser on. Then you slowly bring it to within 1" of the TV screen. You see multiple "rainbows" in circles around the middle of the bulk eraser. (Very scary the first time!) But if you move the bulk eraser slowly across the screen and then slowly pull it away from the screen at least 4 feet before releasing the button, you will find it totally degaussed the TV. (Well, sometimes you need to do this more than once...there's a bit of an art to it.)


Again, it is a bit scary, but this technique has never failed me or caused a problem. YMMV.


It may be difficult to find one of these units. I see they have been on e-Bay in the $30-dollar range. It seems new ones--where available--are over $100.



Mark


----------



## Floydage

I did an old 27" with a small circular refrigerator magnet based on an article I found on the 'net, helped but not 100% because the TV was so out of whack (degauss circuit gone wild and fried). Magnet against the glass and moving very slow, started in the middle then worked to one side, went around the edge (360 degrees) then back to the middle and moved away from the TV slowly. Then I experimented with other variations like doing just the worst corners.


When I scrapped another similar chassis TV I saved the chassis and rigged it up so that I could 'portable-ly' degauss the 27" after moving it to another location. I brought the 27" degauss coil cable that plugs into the chassis out the back of the set and jumpered the scrapped chassis into the cable connector, then turn the scrapper on just long enough to perform its turn-on degauss pulse (insulated the scrapper's anode cap via a glass jar). Worked great!


----------



## darenleecortez

H O L Y C R A P !


I am about 14 hours into being a new owner of a 34XBR960. Took an 8 hour ride to Kansas City and back today. A massive THANK YOU to Kelsosfriend for posting the TV and being willing to pass forward such an amazing experience. Watching the XBR I have said things like..... WOW!, Oh my God!, and Oh man! Way back when, I sold XBR and some better audio, I remember striving to give "WOW experiences" to people when they experienced all the toys we had to offer. Tonight was my "WOW"........


When I moved to St. Louis in 2007 I gave away $8000 in speakers as I was leaving a house, a city, a marriage, and my A/V centric life. I kind of put that part of me away. Arriving home with the TV tonight, I moved some furniture, grabbed an off air antenna, hooked up a blu ray player, paired the XBR with a single subwoofer, made some tweeks and ended up watching TV, playing an audio cd, watching a blu ray, and just melted away into another world.


Giving away some of my audio gear was paying it forward back then. I never expected it to come full circle. It did today.


Thank you, David..... I think the flame has been re-lit......


----------



## ronwells

I just replaced my 960 and am looking for a new home for it. Unit is in great shape and includes the Sony stand. I am in the Knoxville area and am looking for $150.


----------



## nx211




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *darenleecortez*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7800#post_23033845
> 
> H O L Y C R A P !
> 
> 
> I am about 14 hours into being a new owner of a 34XBR960. Took an 8 hour ride to Kansas City and back today. A massive THANK YOU to Kelsosfriend for posting the TV and being willing to pass forward such an amazing experience. Watching the XBR I have said things like..... WOW!, Oh my God!, and Oh man! Way back when, I sold XBR and some better audio, I remember striving to give "WOW experiences" to people when they experienced all the toys we had to offer. Tonight was my "WOW"........
> 
> 
> When I moved to St. Louis in 2007 I gave away $8000 in speakers as I was leaving a house, a city, a marriage, and my A/V centric life. I kind of put that part of me away. Arriving home with the TV tonight, I moved some furniture, grabbed an off air antenna, hooked up a blu ray player, paired the XBR with a single subwoofer, made some tweeks and ended up watching TV, playing an audio cd, watching a blu ray, and just melted away into another world.
> 
> 
> Giving away some of my audio gear was paying it forward back then. I never expected it to come full circle. It did today.
> 
> 
> Thank you, David..... I think the flame has been re-lit......




Sounds like a man who doesn't like that nasty LCD cool-aid taste either.


nx211


----------



## darenleecortez

I might be up for the drive to Tenn. I am out of the country till April. Let me know.


----------



## THX-1138

There was one for sale in St Louis, I think.


----------



## darenleecortez

thanks I will keep my eye out for one. I plan on collecting 10 or so. I would rather have a xbr960 over the flat stuff avail. I have the space and helpers to lift. God bless all


----------



## THX-1138

It was in a pawn shop in St Louis or closer to the Ark border.

Can't recall the name at the moment.

Might find it.


----------



## Floydage

Craigslist too but I have to look at all the Sony ads in the 30" to low 40" range, plus those that don't subject line the size; most folks don't know what size they are, the model number is too hard to find, and widescreen throws them off too.


----------



## Ted W

Recently picked up the 960. Coming from an XS955 and frankly I was perfectly happy with it... until it stopped wanting to turn on. Anyway, I have a few problems with the 960: the anti-glare coating is a disaster and the HDMI input doesn't work with either my BR or my TiVo. I'm going to try to fix the first issue with steel wool, as per someone's suggestion, and I only mention it to see if someone else has updated info or suggestions on how to remove the coating. On to the HDMI... I'm using component for my BR, which is fine, I suppose, but the picture does look a _little_ noisy -- almost imperceptible, really. I'm wondering if that's the compoent signal (and thus would be corrected by going HDMI), or whether the Superfine tube is just revealing noise in the signal that went unnoticed on my other set. It's somewhat disappointing. Does anyone have any idea off the top of their head why the HDMI would not display a picture? I'm getting a signal from the player, so I think it's an HDCP issue. Is the set using an early protocol and not able to properly read from a later version HDMI port? Aren't these things backwards compatible? Any help that you could give would be appreciated; I'd rather not have to replace the whole HDMI board (although any advice you can give me on sourcing that part would be helpful as well). Thanks.


----------



## THX-1138

Be sure you have a bluray made early enough to have component enabled.

On my bluray you have to choose hdmi or component in menu.

I think they work without doing that, but with lesser quality.

On later units the component technology has been robbed from the usa market by the industry.


I've heard of hdmi boards failing on sonys, but I've never used hdmi myself.

I looked at a 910 recently with the hdmi fed through an AV unit then into the dvi on that unit.

Looked good.


Be aware there is a 940 model also.


----------



## Ted W

It's a Samsung BR, but I didn't touch anything from the last TV... so it should work. I was thinking maybe the Sony is too early to work with a later BR, but maybe that isn't right. And I don't see any HDMI configuration settings to mess with on the Sony. But thanks.


----------



## THX-1138

If it worked on the XS, it should work.


The configuration settings are on my bluray, not the sony.

There are a surprizing number of options on both units though.

There may be conflicting options somewhere.


Component hidef output was taken away after 2010.

I won't be buying any bluray models without active component outputs.

http://news.cnet.com/8301-17938_105-20042864-1.html


----------



## Nordic Times

Are these sets good for current gen gaming? I'm looking into buying one if my Panny gives out soon.


----------



## Dan Vermeersch

As far as the screen only being 34 inches as opposed to having a larger LCD. I have my xbox360 on a HDMI cable hooked to mine and it looks fabulous.


----------



## Nordic Times

I would love to come across one for cheap, prob 100 bucks if its still well calibrated.


----------



## Ted W

I wonder if anybody has tried acetone or nail polish remover on that anti-glare screen.


----------



## Nordic Times

Has anyone used them to game on a PC???


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ted W*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7800#post_23138972
> 
> 
> I wonder if anybody has tried acetone or nail polish remover on that anti-glare screen.



There's a very detailed post, maybe even with pics, on here somewhere [search function] and I don't think they used steel wool. Could also be under a similar thread like the 960N version (seems like there's also another 960 thread).


----------



## swing1951

My XBR960 still plays and looks great; love it.


There are also instructions (two ways) of SLICING the rather thick, "clear," protective film off the screen, as I did, elsewhere in this thread. What a positive difference.


There's a method that involves partially disassembling the set (shudder). A much easier way, which some might characterize as half-assed, is just taking an Xacto knive and having at it.


I believe all the 960s had the plastic film except for the last models that either had some kind of ingrained, built in screen glare protection, that is, inside the glass front, or no coating or film at all. Help on this, please; my memory fails.


Of course, one does any of this at ones own risk.


----------



## NeilPeart

Why do people remove the anti-reflective coating on their Sonys? I have the KD-34XS955N (no coating) on my TV and on some days I wish I did have some coating. Since it is not facing a window the light reflection is minimal but at bright times during the day some anti-reflective coating would be nice.


----------



## Ted W

Because the coating has deteriorated -- it's not uniform, it's splotchy across the whole TV and it's irritating.


----------



## NeilPeart

So on many of the TVs the coating began to deteriorate and become uneven? Perhaps that is why Sony removed the coating on the newer TVs (the N suffix).


----------



## THX-1138

My coating is like new.


People damaged them.

UV may be an issue.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NeilPeart*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7800#post_23151705
> 
> 
> Perhaps that is why Sony removed the coating on the newer TVs (the N suffix).



I'd heard that they did it because folks complained they didn't get bright enough. Cost-reduction too but I doubt that mattered then.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

As far as the coating, I did not notice anything starting to peal off till at least five years after owning the set. Since that time, it's starting to peal off on all different areas of the screen.


The fortunate part is if we watch the set with the lights off directly opposite the screen - and keep the lamps on that are next to it instead, it is impossible to see any of the messy parts. It's as if there were no streaks on the screen at all.


During the daylight hours it is noticeable somewhat at different viewing angles so and at that point, it appears more as if one didn't clean the screen more than anything distorted.


So that's one way to get around the anti-glare coating issue. Have any lights that are opposite the screen turned off - and keep the other lamps toward the side on. As many might contest, the pealed off coating is most noticeable when the the set is turned off. And the picture itself is really not distorted when it's on, even with the lights in front of it. It is more upsetting than anything else.


----------



## NeilPeart

Thanks for the info - this TV still impresses me. I have a Kuro Elite monitor in the theater, a nice Panasonic plasma in the bedroom, and some great IPS computer monitors; I am still impressed every time I watch this SFP tube. Once it is calibrated, service-menu-tweaked and using an external scaler/de-interlacer it is still a sight to behold. For the price it's tough to ask for anything else:


KD-34XS955N: $ 550 (clearance)

DVDO Edge: $ 250 (sale)

Onkyo 805: $ 350 (receiver from theater system)

Onix speakers $ 275 (bought from friend)

Oppo DV-980 $ 150 (new)

Total: $1575


That entire system is cheaper than any TV in my house, and I bought the TV new (clearance when no one wanted a big tube TV at Fry's). For classic gaming and SD content this TV is amazing - it simply has a very film-like presentation that only the Kuro matches.


----------



## gary777

I have a Sony KD-34XRB960 that is still pretty much work perfect. However every week or two for a day thr TV blacks out for just a few seconds, then when the picture and sound comes back on I see in the upper left Video 6 or 7 in my case, and in the lower left full for screen mode. some times the blink is so quick the picture and sound never go out but the Video 6 or 7 just pops up and the Full, for screen mode.


It does this even when all components are unplugged. Seems the audio and video just drop out for a second. I really like this tv and it'ds been a loooooong time since I have worked on a TV, I am talking pre HD and earlier.


Need some ideas as to what could be happening.


I can simulate the problem by unplugging the device I am using, plug it back in and there is the Vidio and Full on the screen. Just like when I first power it up. I am not losing power though, at least not in the main power supply.


Comments please...


I posted this under CRT Devices a few days ago, but this thread seems to be a more likely place to perhaps get some help....


----------



## pdroth

Anyone interested in a spare remote? I have one, and I also have the original manual that came with the TV.


TV is gone - had an accident and it fell off the stand and was destroyed.










Was going to throw the remote on ebay but figured I would give somone here a chance at it first.


----------



## HDTimeShifter

I guess the 34XBR800 thread has been replaced by this one. I have a 34XBR800 that is 2 months shy of 10 years old since I bought it. Since I upgraded my A/V receiver to an HDMI one a few years ago, it has this problem where whenever I turn off the TV, it resets my DVR/cable box settings so that I loose audio and the video is chopped in half - anyway the solution was to turn my cable box off, reset the settings to DVI, L-PCM, etc. so I can get the HDMI connection to pass through correct picture and audio. Since this is a painful process (takes a minute or two), I tend to leave the TV on once I turn it on, even if I leave the room to do something else. So I probably put 2-3 times as many hours on the tube the last few years. Tonight, when I turned on the TV and cable box, after a few minutes, the TV turned off by itself. I turned it back on and reset the cable box, and left the room, but when I came back 45 minutes later, it was off and the Standby LED blinking. I turned the TV back on, but the picture was very soft, then turned red and shut off with the Standby LED blinking. I turned it back on again, and the same thing happened, but the red screen had horizontal lines and it turned off again. I tried the front power button instead of the remote, and same thing. Is my CRT dead? Do I have to bite the bullet and finally replace it with a plasma or LED?


Edit: Turned it back on, and was ok - stayed on for 10-15 minutes before turning off again. Turned it on again, and it's stayed on for over an hour with perfect picture again. So I'm not sure what happened, or if it dying?


This morning it turned off again after being on for only a few minutes. When I turned it back on, there was a red screen again before it turned right off. A 2nd time it turned on ok. Anybody know what these symptoms are?


----------



## gary777

I have no idea what it could be. However if you really like the 34XBR800 I would call a repairman, let him see it and then you would get a professional opinion. I would do that with my KD-34XRB960 that I posted about here, but I never know when it will act up. That makes it really hard to trouble shoot. In your case, now is the time to call for an estimate. I am waiting for my KD-34XRB960 to finally die or not work on a regular basis, then for me it is worth the price of a service call. you will have to decide how much you like your 34XBR800 and if you want to spend $50 or so to get a guy to come out and look at it. Let us know what you decide..


Good Luck


----------



## Floydage

First I'd make sure it's not an input signal problem. My Panny shuts itself down after going whacky on an inappropriate signal - standby and blinking LED thing too. In my case it was from some weird subscription OTA signal from ION (68-100 or sub-channel above in D/FW) that a particular HD tuner I have would program in after scanning; may also do it on 720p sources as my Panny doesn't support native 720p.


I doubt that sub-channel problem is your case since you have cable. Make sure the box isn't set for a resolution your Sony doesn't support; also watch out for a setting on the box that allows the box to output native resolution for each channel rather than a fixed resolution by the box (my Hughes DirecTV box has these settings which would allow 720p from certain stations but I'm using it for OTA only, I don't know how cable is done with say local channels).


Next try without using the AVR (AVR could be glitching).


Next try the cable box input to the TV via component, composite, and RF (could be HDMI problem).


Next try a different source like a DVD player (could be cable box glitching).


Of course these could be done in different order but I assume your priority is cable viewing.


Beyond that I'd say it's the TV. You may find the HDMI on the Sony is bad, which I think I've seen posts about, which would require replacing the HDMI card or repairing the circuit or just using a different input.

As far as the blinking LED problem if it's due to the Sony itself sans HDMI, yeah I've seen plenty of posts on that subject. There's some kind of problem common to these Sonys and other similar vintage sets, I think power supply/control, where folks replace two ICs (apparently the 1st generation of those ICs are faulty and/or can't handle the stress from whatever it is driving them). I believe a lot of help info on it in some of these Sony threads and not out of the realm of those that know how to solder and have basic technical abilities, just heed their precautionary warnings. [Disclaimer: I've never dealt with this repair]. Check out this thread for starters:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1366567/sony-trinitron-wega-rlod-twenty-dollar-repair-guide/60#post_23175543 


I put you at the last page to read the last post or two.


That other thread you posted on may have something on it too. Also the search function for say "Sony standby blinking LED."


----------



## HDTimeShifter

I have my Motorola cable DVR set to 1080i.

I'll try powering it on without the receiver (although I think it still loops through the HDMI I/O). The damn Denon 1910 is so complicated (PCs are easier to operate) that I couldn't even figure out how to get sound from the FM tuner the other night. Hmm, maybe it's a coincidence that happened just about the night before the TV started shutting off? I pulled out the Denon manual, but haven't had time to mess with it as I'm still trying to get my taxes finished!


I'll also try it with just the DVD player.


I've started to scan through the 1765 posts in the "Sony blinking Standby light" thread, but so far haven't seen any mention of a red screen.


10-12 years is the lifetime of most (pre-HD) tubes, so I figure it's getting near the end of it's lifetime, so don't want to spend much repairing it. I didn't know you could get an in-house service call for only $50 - I figured I'd have to find a friend to help transport it to a shop and back, which would be a hassle, not to mention whatever pricey service and parts might be required.


Thanks for the help - will let you know if any of the above solves the problem.


----------



## Floydage

That is suspicious based on the timing of the FM issue. Not that the Denon is bad but maybe a setting changed. Fancier AVRs can process the video rather than just switch it through, including converting the resolution. Who knows, maybe with a power surge or outage it defaults to 1080p on HDMI.

I suspect like my Panny that your Sony doesn't display what input resolution it's receiving. The only clue I have from the Panny is that my aspect choices diminish with higher resolutions (480i = 5, 480p = 2, 1080i = 0







). Of course I'd think an AVR would show it on its display or OSD.

A quick test would be to plug that Motorola straight into the Sony and double-check the MOT's 1080i setting (i.e. no native, variable, etc.).


I've saved a lot of time using the search function with strategic keywords. This link will get you the forum for all relevant CRT threads rather just picking one thread to search through:

http://www.avsforum.com/f/64/direct-view-single-tube-crt-displays 


Note the choice for Posts or Threads. In my case there were no threads on my subject so I had to use Posts (try Threads first though). Last resort on AVS is to search through all of AVS (you never know!) by starting at HOME.


Well that two-IC problem appears to be a design flaw IMO. I feel sorry for the poor saps that only got a few years out of their sets before they crashed. I wonder when the problem was realized and resolved (if ever), and if resolved which models/serial numbers?


Yeah I see more modern versions of these on Craigslist in the price range that makes a $50+ service call seem silly, I would save my friend's help for one of those







. Of course there's the issue of getting rid of an old one (and hence why used ones are so cheap with folks upgrading to flat panels). Denver should be good supply area although I don't see 'em pop up every day even in in the vast urban sprawl of D/FW.


P.S. BTW I just realized your Sony is a DVI TV so you might want to dig through ALL the manuals and make sure everything is set DVI compatible, whatever that may be if it matters (I don't have any DVI or HDMI TVs). But before I labored through all that I would try the TV on component or some other input.


----------



## HDTimeShifter

Actually I think there is a setup screen on my Sony to choose resolution - I should check that as well in case there was a power outage which reset it.


The DVI input on the Sony causes the reset problems with my Denon because of the HDMI-DVI cable connection. Actually it's a bug in the Denon, but since I bought it grey market Internet, I probably couldn't bring it to a local dealer to have them reflash the PROM under warranty. So I just lived with it, having to do the whole reset DVR settings every time I power on the TV.


I've had lots of issues trying to get HDMI and sound passing through my Denon. One time when I hooked up an older DVD player (may have been component cables), I had blank screen or no sound or some weird combo and had to fiddle with the settings. I figured I hit something wrong on my remote and have to reconfigure something. Coincidentally, right after I had the tuner issue, my rechargeable batteries in the remote were low and the remote stopped working so I had to recharge them.


I didn't have the IC problem, but my TV stopped powering on 2.5 years ago, and thanks to the "blinking Standby light thread" I found out it was a simple $2 fuse fix (after I already started researching LCD/LEDs and plasma TVs and this thread). It was only 7 years old then and I expected to get at least 10 years out of a $2500 TV.


----------



## Floydage

I saw something somewhere about having to set DVI to HDCP so all HDMI-sourced material will work, a copyright issue.


Hmmm, bogus commands sent due to low battery on remote? They can also lose u-programming you have set up to control other devices if the battery is too low long enough. And some stuff doesn't like rechargeable batteries.


----------



## HDTimeShifter

The 34XBR800's DVI has HDCP, so HDMI to DVI is not a problem.


It was my Denon remote's batteries that ran low. I only use it to turn the receiver on and off, and occasionally to switch to DVD input. I use the DVR/cable box remote to turn the TV on and off.


I counted the number of times the Standby light blinked when the TV shut off and it was 7. That thread about the Standby blinking mentions blinking 7 times as one of the bad IC symptoms, so I'm pretty sure my ICs have gone bad. Tonight the TV shut off after a 10 minutes or so 3 times, then stayed on for several hours. The ICs and other parts required for the fix only costs $25 (not including soldering tools), but since I don't know anything about soldering and I think the tube is near the end of its lifetime, I'm going to buy a large plasma to replace it and give it away. Hopefully the TV can limp along for a week or 2 for me to research current 50"+ Plasmas and buy one. Also replacing it with an HDMI TV will hopefully eliminate the annoying DVI/HDMI issue requiring a reset of the cable box settings every time I turn on the TV. Also having a built-in ATSC tuner in a new TV will be nice as I was considering dumping cable TV soon because I'm tired of paying $100/month to mainly watch network TV now that SpeedTV no longer carries F1 and Comcast also no longer carries Universal Sports for World Cup ski racing. If anyone in Denver wants to take my 34XBR800 off my hands when I replace it with a plasma, send me a private message.


----------



## Floydage

Makes sense, the money you save on cable will pay for the new TV in no time. Might be electricity savings too.










Several pages back some of these Sony 960 guys are all gaga over the Panasonic TC-P65VT50 plasma. BTW I saw an article recently on Yahoo that a few of these big boys are discontinuing plasmas.


You'll probably need to start a fresh thread for the Sony 800 giveaway although you're chances are geographically small with that repair requirement. Craigslist Free will even be tough, who's gonna want to lug this beast that will spend the money for the repair or have the capability of performing the repair? I throw this out as you may want to consider any pick-up/recycle offer a retailer has when buying a TV from them. Tough call as you don't want to part with it until getting the new one (assuming it lasts that long) and I'm guessing that like me, you'd like to see it go to someone who will actually use it rather than the recycle heap.


----------



## HDTimeShifter

Yeah, one year of cable TV is $1200! More than enough for a 60" LG plasma. I know there's a pretty significant savings from CRT to LCD, but don't know if it's very significant to plasma - LED is about a 1/3 the power consumption of plasma.


Well the Pany TC-P65VT50 costs $3300, while the LG 60PA6500 is also a 60" plasma rated top PQ, but only costs $900. The LG doesn't come with 3D or Internet crap, neither of which I care about - PQ is all that matters - I'll pull-down from OTA/Internet, record and stream over my CAT5 network through the DVR I'm building. Too bad the market seems to be going away from plasma. Viewing angle, PQ darks, and motion are all superior with plasma.


I'll post the giveaway in the IC failure thread - lots of those guys picked up their Sony CRTs free. Every couple of months, someone in Denver gives away a 40" Sony these days. If no one bites on AVSForum, I'm pretty sure some local will when I post a link to the thread here showing how it is only a $25 repair.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTimeShifter*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7830#post_23196817
> 
> 
> Well the Pany TC-P65VT50 costs $3300, while the LG 60PA6500 is also a 60" plasma rated top PQ, but only costs $900. The LG doesn't come with 3D or Internet crap, neither of which I care about - PQ is all that matters - I'll pull-down from OTA/Internet, record and stream over my CAT5 network through the DVR I'm building. Too bad the market seems to be going away from plasma. Viewing angle, PQ darks, and motion are all superior with plasma.


Price on P65VT50 dropped considerably (if you can still find them), since the VT60 line is out for 2013... but at a premium price of course.


I never saw an LG plasma when I bought my 65" 65VT50 (to replace my long-loved 34XBR060), but I can't imagine it being superior to the Panny VT50 (which comes in a 55" flavor as well) either in picture quality or "ISF calibration-ability", especially at the huge difference in price as you say. Just not possible. But as far a a picture having an XBR960-like "depth and almost 3D reality" to its picture, there is no comparison between the VT50 plasma image and any other LED/LCD I shopped (including the top-of-the-line Sony XBR). The fluidity and naturalness of the plasma picture is about as close to CRT as you can get.


I've now had my 65VT50 set for about 4 months, and it was calibrated (by Jeff Meier). Initially, I couldn't accept the dramatic difference in ISF-calibrated D65 picture vs. the "straight Custom - flat/0" Panny settings I'd gotten used to during the first month, which matched my own setup for the XBR960 (more "cool"). But I must report I am now a complete D65 convert, having moved over to the ISF setup 2 months ago and truly getting used to it ... and I've never once looked back. I've now never changed to anything but Jeff's ISF setup since making that change.


And, amazingly, the picture on the 65VT50 is ASTOUNDING! I think it's changing (i.e. improving) over time as it get more hours on it. The initial "yellowish/jaundice" (as I used to describe it) has actually changed over time (maybe it's my own perception, because I'm getting used to D65, but I think the set's image itself is truly changing), and it is absolutely much more natural skin-tone like I wanted originally but didn't see. It is amazingly human-like skin, and red, and green, and blue... all colors are just some true and natural and realistic, it's remarkable. For example the red leather chairs on "The Voice", well it's like I'm in the showroom shopping for red leather chairs. The color is 100% perfect as my mind says they should look.


So, I've become this thread's most vocal advocate for the Panny 65VT50 as a replacement for the 34XBR960 should you want to or need to go that route. Of course it's 4 times as large, which makes it seem like a true home theater when mounted on a wall as I've done. It honestly looks like those new small and intimate "living room/lounge" theaters at the Landmark, the screen of the 65VT50 is so large. I've never had a TV that large before, and I love it watching from 11 feet away like in a small theater.


Since Jeff's calibration back in early February I have also had second visit from a local LA calibrator (David Abrams), and of the two I can now see that Jeff's is superior. Tonight I'm having a third visit (from D-Nice who's on an LA swing this weekend), and I'm now much more aware of what's involved and that it can actually come out different depending on who does the calibration. But I will have Jeff's to try and top as a goal, so let's see what Dwayne manages to accomplish.


Dwayne is also going to calibrate my XBR960 (once and for all, I'm finally having that done as well), which I'm looking forward to now that I realize I've been looking at "blue-white" all these years, which is apparently "unnatural" and that D65 actually DOES look better (at least on the VT50).


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTimeShifter*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7830#post_23196817
> 
> 
> I'll post the giveaway in the IC failure thread - lots of those guys picked up their Sony CRTs free. Every couple of months, someone in Denver gives away a 40" Sony these days. If no one bites on AVSForum, I'm pretty sure some local will when I post a link to the thread here showing how it is only a $25 repair.



Great idea!


I wonder if there's a 'PQ-equivalent' version of that 65VT50 sans 3D and maybe Smart stuff you don't need? (although Smart seem to have become common so I doubt it adds much MSRP when one can buy a device that does that for $50-100). Maybe you can catch one on close-out (Overstock.com?).

Yeah go back a few pages and check out DSperber's setup and discussions; I believe some others piped in about the Panny too.


----------



## Kool-aid23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7830#post_23197276
> 
> 
> Price on P65VT50 dropped considerably (if you can still find them), since the VT60 line is out for 2013... but at a premium price of course.
> 
> 
> I never saw an LG plasma when I bought my 65" 65VT50 (to replace my long-loved 34XBR060), but I can't imagine it being superior to the Panny VT50 (which comes in a 55" flavor as well) either in picture quality or "ISF calibration-ability", especially at the huge difference in price as you say. Just not possible. But as far a a picture having an XBR960-like "depth and almost 3D reality" to its picture, there is no comparison between the VT50 plasma image and any other LED/LCD I shopped (including the top-of-the-line Sony XBR). The fluidity and naturalness of the plasma picture is about as close to CRT as you can get.
> 
> 
> I've now had my 65VT50 set for about 4 months, and it was calibrated (by Jeff Meier). Initially, I couldn't accept the dramatic difference in ISF-calibrated D65 picture vs. the "straight Custom - flat/0" Panny settings I'd gotten used to during the first month, which matched my own setup for the XBR960 (more "cool"). But I must report I am now a complete D65 convert, having moved over to the ISF setup 2 months ago and truly getting used to it ... and I've never once looked back. I've now never changed to anything but Jeff's ISF setup since making that change.
> 
> 
> And, amazingly, the picture on the 65VT50 is ASTOUNDING! I think it's changing (i.e. improving) over time as it get more hours on it. The initial "yellowish/jaundice" (as I used to describe it) has actually changed over time (maybe it's my own perception, because I'm getting used to D65, but I think the set's image itself is truly changing), and it is absolutely much more natural skin-tone like I wanted originally but didn't see. It is amazingly human-like skin, and red, and green, and blue... all colors are just some true and natural and realistic, it's remarkable. For example the red leather chairs on "The Voice", well it's like I'm in the showroom shopping for red leather chairs. The color is 100% perfect as my mind says they should look.
> 
> 
> So, I've become this thread's most vocal advocate for the Panny 65VT50 as a replacement for the 34XBR960 should you want to or need to go that route. Of course it's 4 times as large, which makes it seem like a true home theater when mounted on a wall as I've done. It honestly looks like those new small and intimate "living room/lounge" theaters at the Landmark, the screen of the 65VT50 is so large. I've never had a TV that large before, and I love it watching from 11 feet away like in a small theater.
> 
> 
> Since Jeff's calibration back in early February I have also had second visit from a local LA calibrator (David Abrams), and of the two I can now see that Jeff's is superior. Tonight I'm having a third visit (from D-Nice who's on an LA swing this weekend), and I'm now much more aware of what's involved and that it can actually come out different depending on who does the calibration. But I will have Jeff's to try and top as a goal, so let's see what Dwayne manages to accomplish.
> 
> 
> Dwayne is also going to calibrate my XBR960 (once and for all, I'm finally having that done as well), which I'm looking forward to now that I realize I've been looking at "blue-white" all these years, which is apparently "unnatural" and that D65 actually DOES look better (at least on the VT50).




Congrats on the switch to plasma. I'm glad you were able to adjust to the calibration. Jeff recently did my Pioneer 500m and I too am amazed with the picture in relation to my Sony 34XBR960. Keep us updated on your last calibration. If possible, can you ask D-Nice if he is aware of any method to remove the anti-glare coating?


Thanks


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kool-aid23*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7830#post_23200213
> 
> 
> Congrats on the switch to plasma. I'm glad you were able to adjust to the calibration. Jeff recently did my Pioneer 500m and I too am amazed with the picture in relation to my Sony 34XBR960. Keep us updated on your last calibration.


D-Nice was here last night, and the results of his calibration are FANTASTIC!! Absolutely "the winner" of the three calibrations I've had done in the past few months. Results are STUNNING!


You can see my comments in this post over on the VT50 Settings thread . It is VERY VERY much better than what I'd gotten used to from Jeff. Honestly, the difference is significant.



> Quote:
> If possible, can you ask D-Nice if he is aware of any method to remove the anti-glare coating?


If he makes it back to calibrate my 960 before he leaves on Monday night to go back east, I'll ask him. Otherwise, he's inked me in for his next trip back to the LA area and I'll ask him then.


I myself have never done anything to the screen on my 960 (it's an original 960, not a 960N) and have no complaints. I suspect it will look like my VT50 now looks when he's done, and if so I will be truly thrilled.


Watching The Masters on my newly calibrated 65VT50 is truly like being there. Window on the world. Amazing. You'd swear there was a hole in my wall, it is so 3D-like. Same "depth" like with a high-end CRT such as the 960.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7830#post_23200528
> 
> 
> Watching The Masters on my newly calibrated 65VT50 is truly like being there. Window on the world. Amazing. You'd swear there was a hole in my wall, it is so 3D-like. Same "depth" like with a high-end CRT such as the 960.



Ever duck when you hear "fore" coming from the TV?


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kool-aid23*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7830#post_23200213
> 
> 
> If possible, can you ask D-Nice if he is aware of any method to remove the anti-glare coating?



Do a keyword Search within this thread or maybe even the CRT category. I saw some good stuff on the subject some time ago, one post was really detailed.


----------



## LiquidSnake

I remember seeing steel wool recommended. Sounds crazy, but almost every testimonial I can recall stated that steel wool rubbed across the screen made the stuff fall off like magic.


----------



## Kool-aid23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7830#post_23202500
> 
> 
> Do a keyword Search within this thread or maybe even the CRT category. I saw some good stuff on the subject some time ago, one post was really detailed.



Thanks. I've seen and read all the strategies posted in this thread. (I even have a picture of the peeled off coating from the first version). However with all those strategies come with the "do at your own risk". I'm curious if any the professional calibrators have any experience with anti-glare coating. I'm guessing not but it doesn't hurt to ask.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kool-aid23*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7830#post_23208044
> 
> 
> Thanks. I've seen and read all the strategies posted in this thread. (I even have a picture of the peeled off coating from the first version). However with all those strategies come with the "do at your own risk". I'm curious if any the professional calibrators have any experience with anti-glare coating. I'm guessing not but it doesn't hurt to ask.



Hi Kool,


I've been hesitant to try any of that with my own 960, however, when direct lighting does not go against the screen, the blotchy areas cannot be noticed - due to no glare coming at it. So when I want to watch a DVD or premium channel movie in 6.1 sound, I simply keep the lights on that are on the side of the set and keep the ones directly across from it off.


After all these years, the picture is still stunning and I too was amazed at how life-like the Masters looked over the weekend. Did my own calibration a few years back and just do a run-through to be sure nothing was accidentally changed in the service menu. Also unplug the set once a month for five minutes for that allows the degausser to restore the picture to it's full strength, more than just turning the set on and off.


----------



## Kool-aid23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7830#post_23208441
> 
> 
> Hi Kool,
> 
> 
> I've been hesitant to try any of that with my own 960, however, when direct lighting does not go against the screen, the blotchy areas cannot be noticed - due to no glare coming at it. So when I want to watch a DVD or premium channel movie in 6.1 sound, I simply keep the lights on that are on the side of the set and keep the ones directly across from it off.
> 
> 
> After all these years, the picture is still stunning and I too was amazed at how life-like the Masters looked over the weekend. Did my own calibration a few years back and just do a run-through to be sure nothing was accidentally changed in the service menu. Also unplug the set once a month for five minutes for that allows the degausser to restore the picture to it's full strength, more than just turning the set on and off.



Yes, after all these years, I too am scared to mess with the removal. My 960 is no longer my main tv so it's not that big of a deal. Yet, a small part of me is still bothered that my coating is coming off. My calibration from Chad B continues to shine. And I also continue to unplug my set twice a month. ;-)


----------



## ronwells

Still have that 960 with stand in Tennessee. Now $100.


----------



## Ted W

Gets it off, but there is some scratching. Plus, too much work to do the whole screen that way. So I stopped.


----------



## Floydage

The nicely-detailed method didn't use steel wool if I recall correctly, I think it was chemical in nature. I worked part-time with an auto window tinter in my college days and we would peel the tint off starting with a razor blade, then remove the glue with a combination of a razor blade and, oddly enough, Pine-Sol. 3M and the like also make professional adhesive remover for this kinda stuff.


----------



## LiquidSnake




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ted W*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7830#post_23230104
> 
> 
> Gets it off, but there is some scratching. Plus, too much work to do the whole screen that way. So I stopped.



I've not done it myself, but I've seen multiple testimonials from persons who did. Each and every one said they were scared as hell it would scratch the **** out of their screen but they did it anyway and the glass remained pristine. FWIW.


I have seen other methods for removing antiglare screens from Trinitron computer monitors (FW900), just removing the bezel, slicing the edge with an exacto knife then peeling from there. It only looked like the biggest pain in the ass possible.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LiquidSnake*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7830#post_23232035
> 
> 
> I have seen other methods for removing antiglare screens from Trinitron computer monitors (FW900), just removing the bezel, slicing the edge with an exacto knife then peeling from there. It only looked like the biggest pain in the ass possible.



Bezel removal does sound painful. Now me wonders if one couldn't just X-ACTO the edge at the bezel, then razor-blade in the middle and start peeling from there? Of course some of these folks say the film has already started peeling off so they already have a starting point.










Is a liquid supposed to be used with the steel wool? Maybe there's finer abrasive grades of steel wool too? Heck maybe the scratching is so fine it could easily be polished out or is not even visible when the TV is on. Reminds me of scratching the porcelain in my toilet - thought I totally screwed up but found a 'net video on easily polishing out the scratches with Bar Keeper's Friend.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7830#post_23196725
> 
> 
> BTW I saw an article recently on Yahoo that a few of these big boys are discontinuing plasmas.



Not so fast Yahoo or whomever spit out that apparent misinformation:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1468229/plasma-presents-problem-for-panasonic-conflicting-messages-cause-confusion


----------



## mcpublic

I have a Sony KD-34XBR960 (34" CRT HDTV) that I want to keep running.

Yesterday it stopped working with the following symptoms:

No sound, no picture (totally black).

There is NO fast-blinking self-diagnosis code.

Unplugging the TV overnight, and plugging it back in; this restores the picture.

While it was "warming up" (no instant-on after unplugging),

the stand-by LED blinks "normally" 11 1/2 times before the picture came on.

I immediately turned off the TV, assuming I'd do more damage by keeping it on.

I can't find the remote control needed to get the self-diagnoses history displayed on the screen.

I am an engineer.

I have the Sony service manual.

I know how to professionally solder and desolder.

I have a DMM, a digital oscilloscope, and a microscope.

I know how to order components from Digikey.

I have a colleague who is an "old-school" EE with TV experience,

but I don't want to drag him into this willy-nilly without doing some work myself.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mcpublic*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7830#post_23238736
> 
> 
> Unplugging the TV overnight, and plugging it back in; this restores the picture.
> 
> While it was "warming up" (no instant-on after unplugging),
> 
> the stand-by LED blinks "normally" 11 1/2 times before the picture came on.
> 
> I immediately turned off the TV, assuming I'd do more damage by keeping it on.



I don't have one of these but my Panny version of one has shut itself down after weird input signal conditions (ex: one of my HD tuners picks up ION subscription sub-channels the Panny just doesn't like); may also dislike unsupported input formats like 1080p. My Panny LED blinks though when it shuts down.


----------



## Red5Five

*34XBR960n For Sale. Chicagoland area.*


I've got a KD34XBR960n that I'm ready to pass on. It has served us well these years, but after losing a brave fight to the 7 Blinks-of-Death I've come to the sad realization that it is time to pull the plug.


Before it heads off to the e-recycler I thought I'd offer it here first. If you need a project, this is it. I'm pretty sure the IC chips have gone bad and need replacing.


If I could get $100 or so in exchange it would soothe the pain of loss.


PM me please.


----------



## BTV Mark

I live in the Chicago area also. And a few weeks ago my '960 developed the "6x and 7x flashing light" problems. I bought the set new from ABT Electronics. They do component level repair for this problem.(!) In other words, they know which IC's to replace and will replace them on-site at the customer's location. They're coming in two days. I'll report back.


I don't know where you bought your set, and I don't know if ABT will service these sets if you didn't buy from them, but it might be worth it to call them.



Mark


----------



## BTV Mark

Follow-up: Service tech. came with the two chips and the repair worked. I've got my '960 back! Total cost under $200.00


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BTV Mark*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7860#post_23270315
> 
> 
> Follow-up: Service tech. came with the two chips and the repair worked. I've got my '960 back! Total cost under $200.00



Hi BTV,


That is great news. Am sure you're feeling great to have it back!


----------



## DSperber

In a related story...


Having not so much as even powered on my 960 ever since D-Nice was here late on a Friday night in mid-April to do the UNBELIEVABLY FANTASTIC calibration of my Panny 65VT50 but didn't have time to also do the calibration of my 960 as we'd planned, he's returning to LA next weekend and is going to come over to do the 960.


I can't wait. If he can get the colors to look the same on the 960 that he obtained from the VT50, I suspect this will be a stunning result. The 960 being a CRT, it has its own unique look (essentially duplicated by the equally stunning properly calibrated VT50, but still not a CRT). So I can't wait to compare its look to the VT50 right next to it.


Until I saw what "calibrated D65 and proper grayscale" means on the VT50, I'd thought my 960 was fantastic. But now, in comparison to what the VT50 looks like, I'm almost ashamed of what I'd been touting and watching on the 960 since 2004.


Anyway, I am really looking forward to seeing what a "calibrated 960" actually looks like... in light of the "absolute perfection" of my 65VT50, which is truly amazing.


----------



## Kool-aid23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7860#post_23294293
> 
> 
> In a related story...
> 
> 
> Having not so much as even powered on my 960 ever since D-Nice was here late on a Friday night in mid-April to do the UNBELIEVABLY FANTASTIC calibration of my Panny 65VT50 but didn't have time to also do the calibration of my 960 as we'd planned, he's returning to LA next weekend and is going to come over to do the 960.
> 
> 
> I can't wait. If he can get the colors to look the same on the 960 that he obtained from the VT50, I suspect this will be a stunning result. The 960 being a CRT, it has its own unique look (essentially duplicated by the equally stunning properly calibrated VT50, but still not a CRT). So I can't wait to compare its look to the VT50 right next to it.
> 
> 
> Until I saw what "calibrated D65 and proper grayscale" means on the VT50, I'd thought my 960 was fantastic. But now, in comparison to what the VT50 looks like, I'm almost ashamed of what I'd been touting and watching on the 960 since 2004.
> 
> 
> Anyway, I am really looking forward to seeing what a "calibrated 960" actually looks like... in light of the "absolute perfection" of my 65VT50, which is truly amazing.



Congrats on the switch. Keep us updated on the calibration. Also, please ask D-Nice if he's aware of any good way of removing the anti-glare coat.


----------



## JA Fant

The 960 was Sony's last 'statement' CRT. When properly calibrated, it is STUNNING!!!


----------



## airscapes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JA Fant*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7800_100#post_23313687
> 
> 
> The 960 was Sony's last 'statement' CRT. When properly calibrated, it is STUNNING!!!


But unfortunately 300lbs and tiny in today's world.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *airscapes*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7860#post_23313850
> 
> 
> But unfortunately 300lbs and tiny in today's world.



Actually 200 lbs. That's so much better


----------



## HDTimeShifter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7860#post_23314851
> 
> 
> Actually 200 lbs. That's so much better



Wow, that's 50 pounds lighter than it's predecessor, the 34XBR800!


Speaking of which, I have a 34XBR800 which has developed the red screen/shut off with 7 times blinking standby light problem. You have to power cycle once to a few times when this happens, but will stay on for hours and won't repeat the problem for days afterwards. It's in Denver, free for whoever wants it. PM me.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kool-aid23*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7860#post_23298254
> 
> 
> Congrats on the switch. Keep us updated on the calibration. Also, please ask D-Nice if he's aware of any good way of removing the anti-glare coat.


D-Nice just left. FANTASTIC!


Of course I have a very unusual equipment setup, with my 65VT50 and 34XBR960 literally right next to each other and both fed simultaneously from the two HDMI outputs of my AVR. So this is really a true "apples to apples" comparison". And we used the same "reference" scenes we're both very familiar with, namely that college brick wall on the S&M montage, and the restaurant scene on the DVE 2nd edition BluRay.


Color on the two sets is now essentially identical. They are not exactly identical because the 960 does not possess the CMS system that the VT50 has, and there are no adjustment controls for yellow and cyan. So it's kind of a compromise. With both identical images on the two sets simultaneously, it's easy to see that the VT50 is "more accurate" and has more saturation in the red area, but increasing color on the 960 to compensate makes the blue sky slightly different. So it's a compromise and perfection is not ever going to be obtained from the analog 960, given its more limited adjustability in the analog service menu controls.


Nevertheless, side by side these sets are just about as identical as you could possibly imagine. One very interesting artifact shows up when we watched the opening polar bear sequence from "Frozen Planet" episode 1. Actually, the polar bear fur on the VT50 kind of shifted to the green, whereas it did nothing on the 960 and remained accurate. DeWayne said that's 100% "normal" characteristic of the Panny plasmas when a scene has lots of white, and ABL cuts in. They tend to appear greenish. He said the same effect on Samsung screens moves toward red. All from ABL.


Anyway, I am THRILLED with the result... proven out "subjectively" by the side-by-side comparisons, even more so than just by examining the objective before/after reports. Again, the objective "after" shows issues with the colors that are simply not adjustable on the Sony CRT, but the overall color temperature charts show "perfection"... especially when comparing to the before charts, which were actually OFF THE CHART (i.e. BLUE, and no RED)... from my "color temperature = COOL" setting.


So, all in all, the following menu changes were made (before and after values shown if a change from my previous setup was made, otherwise just the original/current value is shown).


Note that some values may have been changed automatically by the 960 (as opposed to by the calibration) due to color temperature change from COOL to WARM, and color axis change from DEFAULT to MONITOR:


USER MENU



Mode: PRO

Picture: 35 -> 42 (adjusted to get 40fL output)

Brightness: 32 -> 33

Color: 31 -> 33

Hue: 0 -> R2 (adjusted to get a bit more saturation in red brick wall from S&M scene)

Sharpness: MIN -> 20 (adjusted using AVS709 test pattern, for optimal clarity on vertical line sub-pattern)

Color temp: COOL -> WARM

Clear Edge: OFF

Adv Color Axis: DEFAULT -> MONITOR



SERVICE MENU - 2170P-1 Group



7 SBRT: 28

8 RDRV: 32

9 GDRV: 27

10 BDRV: 27 -> 26

11 RCUT: 32 -> 25

12 GCUT: 24

13 BCUT: 31 -> 38

14 WBSW: 0

15 SBOF: 7

16 RDOF: 31

17 GDOF 31 -> 26

18 BDOF: 34 -> 16

19 RCOF: 31

20 GCOF: 31 -> 27

21 BCOF: 34 -> 19

22 DCOL: 1 -> 0



SERVICE MENU - 2170P-4 Group



7 RYR: 13 -> 15

8 RYB: 15

9 GYR: 5 -> 9

10 GYB: 4 -> 3

11 GAMM: 0 -> 1

12 GAMS: 0 -> 8

13 GAMR: 0 -> 4

14 GAMG: 0 -> 4

15 GAMB: 0 -> 4



Now for the [embarrassing] BEFORE charts (note almost entirely blue, and no red, and "off the chart" on color target):

 

 



And here are the AFTER charts (just a "slight difference", I'd say!!):


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kool-aid23*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7860#post_23298254
> 
> 
> Also, please ask D-Nice if he's aware of any good way of removing the anti-glare coat.


He says he has no info to provide on this question, because he never recommends doing this. He wouldn't touch it.


Note that by upping my PICTURE and BRIGHTNESS somewhat in my user menu, and increasing GAMM in the service menu, he was able to get the same 40fL of output from my 960 as I'm getting from my VT50. And this is even with the factory anti-glare coating on my 960 screen.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi DSperber,


Hey, congratulations on getting both sets calibrated and even though you are comparing a brand new Plasma to a set purchased eight years ago, it does say wonders about the 960 that it can stand up nicely to the Plasma even if there are certain adjustments you cannot make due to it being analog.


Going to check my settings against the calibrated ones you had to see if there is a major difference and maybe try them out. I see you went from cool to warm - I noticed that in the NEUTRAL mode certain whiles would appear slightly silver while other whites remained pure whereas in the WARM mode there was no differential.


So if I keep it in NEUTRAL would that throw off your others service settings? Can try it in WARM of course.


Was your set calibrated with the COOL setting on?


Will, of course, be sure I have all my settings written down properly before making any changes - been through that a long time ago!










Again, happy all is working out well.



Joe


----------



## NextGen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7860#post_23334325
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course I have a very unusual equipment setup, with my 65VT50 and 34XBR960 literally right next to each other and both fed simultaneously from the two HDMI outputs of my AVR. So this is really a true "apples to apples" comparison".



I'm guessing a precision focus was not done on the crt after tweaking convergence and geometry because sharpness should be at 0


Possibly this is from my PS3, but I get a sharper/clearer image from the component inputs of my xs955 than from HDMI.

It's easily noticeable from 480p-1080i as I have both HDMI and Component connect from the PS3. I also need component to get proper 480i with DRC from PS2 games when I play them from time to time.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7860#post_23338658
> 
> 
> Hi DSperber,
> 
> 
> 
> Was your set calibrated with the COOL setting on?
> 
> 
> Will, of course, be sure I have all my settings written down properly before making any changes - been through that a long time ago!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, happy all is working out well.
> 
> 
> Joe


assuming your talking about the CRT:

IMO, hire an ISF tech to come out and calibrate it, if nothing else get the geometry and convergence fixed as best as possible (it can be a nightmare). (Ask him to bring convergence magnets if he plans on opening up the set)

Then get a good colorimeter and a laptop and use the AVS HD 709 disk to check if the set is "in the ballpark" to what it should be.

Turn off all Velocity Scan Modulation settings in the service menu if the ISF tech hasn't already done so. Write down the settings just in case you decide to go back to them.

Turn off or lower to 0 all sharpness settings in the service menu as well.

If the ISF tech has not done it, you will need to do a manual focus adjustment, assuming the 960 can do it, you'll need a screwdriver and possibly a drill.


I could add more and more tweaks depending on what you plan on using the set for. I use mine for gaming so I tend to see all the fun noise and artifacts from the subpar tv broadcasts, but my games look fantastic


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7860#post_23338658
> 
> 
> Going to check my settings against the calibrated ones you had to see if there is a major difference and maybe try them out. I see you went from cool to warm - I noticed that in the NEUTRAL mode certain whiles would appear slightly silver while other whites remained pure whereas in the WARM mode there was no differential.
> 
> 
> So if I keep it in NEUTRAL would that throw off your others service settings? Can try it in WARM of course.


The BEFORE chart was, of course, based on the COOL I'd been looking at for 9 years. And as you can see, it was completely off the chart wrong... being essentially all blue and no red.


I enjoyed this, obviously, same as I initially enjoyed "pure Panny factory CUSTOM" on my VT50 before seeing what a proper calibration and D65 actually look like when done right (and yes, I am casting negative aspersions on the first two ISF calibrations I had done on my VT50, until finally getting a truly good one from D-Nice).


But whether you start from COOL or NEUTRAL or WARM, it's just a matter of tweaking the other settings to correspond to the color temperature "bias", to eventually end up with the same chart based on D65. I would guess it's just easier to get there when starting from WARM, which is why he did that. Actually he started my VT50 setup from NORMAL rather than WARM1 or WARM2 (as others do), but still ended up with a "perfect" chart.


Anyway, I feel that color temperature is just one of the many variables that can be tweaked early on (and possibly start you closer to where you want to end up), but you're still going to end up in the right place. He definitely did not suggest keeping COOL.



> Quote:
> Was your set calibrated with the COOL setting on?


No.


Again, because the 960 only has R/G/B adjustments and fairly basic gamma adjustments, whereas the VT50 has CMS that also includes yellow, cyan, and magenta adjustments, along with 10-point white balance and 10-point gamma adjustments, it's really just not possible to get skin tone identical on the two sets, at least not without sacrificing some other color (e.g. red bricks or blue sky) or saturation. But I watched several different programs yesterday on both sets simultaneously, that I'm very familiar with how they look, and I'd say they are functionally identical... if not technically identical.


Most importantly, I've obviously made the proper upgrade in going to the 65VT50 as my new HDTV.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NextGen*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7860#post_23338893
> 
> 
> I'm guessing a precision focus was not done on the crt after tweaking convergence and geometry because sharpness should be at 0


I was actually quite startled when he grabbed his AVS 709 disc to put up the test pattern (for overscan, focus, etc.) and actually adjusted my sharpness up from 0 where I'd always had it to 20.


I discussed this with him at length, but it was he who decided this was needed and appropriate. And after getting right up close to the screen and staring at the vertical line sub-pattern until he was satisfied he'd gotten the desired result tweaking sharpness, he had bumped it up to 20. So for now I've left it there.


I had actually thought sharpness only affected 480i and not HD resolutions, but maybe I'm wrong here. Anyway I've had it at 0 for nine years (and he also set my VT50 to have 0 sharpness), but I'll see how I feel about his setting of 20 for the 960. I realize this is artificial edge enhancement, but given that he didn't do any other adjustments in the service menu other than color related (i.e. in the P-1 and P-4 groups) and the user menu I'll defer to him and his judgment on this one, at least for the time being.



> Quote:
> Possibly this is from my PS3, but I get a sharper/clearer image from the component inputs of my xs955 than from HDMI. It's easily noticeable from 480p-1080i as I have both HDMI and Component connect from the PS3. I also need component to get proper 480i with DRC from PS2 games when I play them from time to time.
> 
> assuming your talking about the CRT:


I don't watch any 480 any longer. I don't own a PS3. I used to used component video many years ago when I had a Zektor 4-in-1-out HDS4 switch, but ever since 2009 I've been using a Yamaha AVR and using HDMI only.


I feel HDMI has more "punch" and "vibrance" on the 960 than component video and prefer it, although they're very similar for sure.



> Quote:
> IMO, hire an ISF tech to come out and calibrate it, if nothing else get the geometry and convergence fixed as best as possible (it can be a nightmare). (Ask him to bring convergence magnets if he plans on opening up the set)


I had a magnet job done on my picture tube within 1 month after buying it in 2004. And I myself have done what I modestly have to describe as a "superb" job of the rest of the geometry and convergence adjustments and overscan and image size and placement. D-Nice did nothing on this. His job, as far as I was concerned, was simply to get my color and grayscale right.



> Quote:
> Turn off or lower to 0 all sharpness settings in the service menu as well.
> 
> If the ISF tech has not done it, you will need to do a manual focus adjustment, assuming the 960 can do it, you'll need a screwdriver and possibly a drill.


I was not concerned with these. Only color.


And I agree that I was quite surprised he went for the sharpness increase, but that's obviously easy enough for me to restore to 0 if I'm unhappy. As of yesterday's sample viewing, it looks fine. Of course I'll probably never watch anything on the 960 again after this since acquiring my 65VT50, but at least the color is now correct on the 960.



> Quote:
> I could add more and more tweaks depending on what you plan on using the set for. I use mine for gaming so I tend to see all the fun noise and artifacts from the subpar tv broadcasts, but my games look fantastic


I am not a gamer. I used to watch only 720p/1080i HDTV programs and BluRay movies in 1080i on the 960. But now everything I watch on the VT50 is upconverted (or native) to 1080p/60 or 1080p/24 from my Oppo BDP-103, running my DVR through the 103's external HDMI inputs.


The "state of the art" 960 has given me 9 great years, and obviously was the right replacement for my original Sampo SME-34WHD5 (which was previously "state of the art", before the 960). But now, it's the VT50 (or now VT60 or ZT60) which should take me for at least another 5 years.


----------



## Floydage

Which, if any, picture setting does the 960 'stick' you in when in the service menu? My Panny CRT sticks me in Dynamic with COOL and doesn't allow me to change either item while in the service menu although I have yet to pour myself through all the SM settings.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NextGen*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7860#post_23338893
> 
> 
> I'm guessing a precision focus was not done on the crt after tweaking convergence and geometry because sharpness should be at 0
> 
> 
> Possibly this is from my PS3, but I get a sharper/clearer image from the component inputs of my xs955 than from HDMI.
> 
> It's easily noticeable from 480p-1080i as I have both HDMI and Component connect from the PS3. I also need component to get proper 480i with DRC from PS2 games when I play them from time to time.
> 
> assuming your talking about the CRT:
> 
> IMO, hire an ISF tech to come out and calibrate it, if nothing else get the geometry and convergence fixed as best as possible (it can be a nightmare). (Ask him to bring convergence magnets if he plans on opening up the set)
> 
> Then get a good colorimeter and a laptop and use the AVS HD 709 disk to check if the set is "in the ballpark" to what it should be.
> 
> Turn off all Velocity Scan Modulation settings in the service menu if the ISF tech hasn't already done so. Write down the settings just in case you decide to go back to them.
> 
> Turn off or lower to 0 all sharpness settings in the service menu as well.
> 
> If the ISF tech has not done it, you will need to do a manual focus adjustment, assuming the 960 can do it, you'll need a screwdriver and possibly a drill.
> 
> 
> I could add more and more tweaks depending on what you plan on using the set for. I use mine for gaming so I tend to see all the fun noise and artifacts from the subpar tv broadcasts, but my games look fantastic



Hi NextGen,


Took care of the geometry issues a long time ago using external swatch patterns so don't have to worry about that one. But thanks for the concern.


----------



## NextGen




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7860#post_23339520
> 
> 
> I was actually quite startled when he grabbed his AVS 709 disc to put up the test pattern (for overscan, focus, etc.) and actually adjusted my sharpness up from 0 where I'd always had it to 20.
> 
> 
> I discussed this with him at length, but it was he who decided this was needed and appropriate. And after getting right up close to the screen and staring at the vertical line sub-pattern until he was satisfied he'd gotten the desired result tweaking sharpness, he had bumped it up to 20.



If you mainly watch movies and tv broadcasts then adding some sharpness among other things makes sense to me. I know kentech even wrote about keeping some velocity modulation on his set.


Congrats on the new set by the way, I've heard nothing but good things about that model. I'm considering a new computer monitor to replace my crt monitor but oled is still too expensive for me. As for my 955, I'd heavily considered the VT but as I still play games and do some developing I'll stick with the old hag and her issues a while longer.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi Dsperber,


Went into my service menu and compared your settings against mine. Surprising how many of them were set the same with some of them off just a digit or so. The bigger changes went from RCT 32>25, BCUT 31>38, BDOF 34>16 and BCPF 34>19 and was already able to see subtle but definite improvements. The color settings in group 4 were all in the neighborhood but the subtle changes did enhance the color more natural but then GAMM went from 0>1 that really really brought everything in together (the rest of the GAMMA settings were the same).










Was able to keep my user settings the same BTW - not touching those.


Will these changes also effect the other mode settings (Movie, Standard) via HDMI for I have a HDMI switcher and am able to use those for upconverted DVDs and DVDRs which I have made.


Thanks for the advice - the picture was great to begin with (as mentioned, the majority of settings were either exact or close) but the subtle changes did more than make a subtle change in picture appearance. What was a wow is now a double-wow (and know you share that feeling).


Joe


----------



## NextGen

Just out of curiosity how much do you think would be a fair price to have someone put convergence magnets on one of these CRT's?

I've needed convergence magnets installed for a long time as the top and bottom left corners have some issues, but I never did it since PS2 games never stretch that far out (512x488 inside of a 640x448/480 frame) and setting the first thee DRCMFV1 codes to 1 subdues much of the slight convergence color bleed and noise.


----------



## Kool-aid23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7860#post_23334345
> 
> 
> He says he has no info to provide on this question, because he never recommends doing this. He wouldn't touch it.
> 
> 
> Note that by upping my PICTURE and BRIGHTNESS somewhat in my user menu, and increasing GAMM in the service menu, he was able to get the same 40fL of output from my 960 as I'm getting from my VT50. And this is even with the factory anti-glare coating on my 960 screen.



Thanks 4 checking and congrats.


----------



## Ennui




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDTimeShifter*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7860#post_23314920
> 
> 
> Wow, that's 50 pounds lighter than it's predecessor, the 34XBR800!
> 
> 
> Speaking of which, I have a 34XBR800 which has developed the red screen/shut off with 7 times blinking standby light problem. You have to power cycle once to a few times when this happens, but will stay on for hours and won't repeat the problem for days afterwards. It's in Denver, free for whoever wants it. PM me.



I have the same problem with my 34XBR960 I have had for many years. It is in San Marcos, California. (North San Diego County). Also free for whoever wants it.


----------



## HDTimeShifter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ennui*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7860#post_23352049
> 
> 
> I have the same problem with my 34XBR960 I have had for many years. It is in San Marcos, California. (North San Diego County). Also free for whoever wants it.



I just bought a 65" plasma from Sam's online and the deliverer only carried it (with me) up my porch stairs into my living room last week. I couldn't convince him to help move the heavy 34XBR800 and lift the plasma into its place. Unfortunately (or fortunately?) my clothes dryer motor died over the weekend and I bought a new dryer that Best Buy delivered and installed for free. The delivery guys carried off my XBR800 and helped me lift the plasma onto my AV stand (thumbs up for Best Buy!). So my XBR800 is no longer available as it's gone. In addition to the powering off into standby problem, it was getting a blue coloration more and more often, so probably not good for anything than parts anyway.


----------



## Ennui




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ennui*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7860#post_23352049
> 
> 
> I have the same problem with my 34XBR960 I have had for many years. It is in San Marcos, California. (North San Diego County). Also free for whoever wants it.



My 34XBR960 has been spoken for. No longer available.


----------



## alexretro

I'm about to buy one of these in perfect working condition for $100. I can't wait....anyone know of free guides and pdfs for this tv?


----------



## airscapes

look back in this thread, I posted links


----------



## Floydage

or do a 'net search for "kd-34xbr960 manual" and you'll see a plethora of links. I'd prioritize any Sony website links (might even find it at their site if it's still archived > Support).


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alexretro*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7860#post_23359478
> 
> 
> I'm about to buy one of these in perfect working condition for $100. I can't wait....anyone know of free guides and pdfs for this tv?



Hi Alexretro,


Hey, congratulations on getting your hands on a 960. You are going to be amazed at just high lifelike and natural the picture quality is. I just recently purchased a 37 inch LED for our den (replacing a broken 32 inch LCD) and though I love my new set and can see how LED has improved the flat screen LCD tremendously, the 960 still stands out as a winner. In all fairness, the LED is not service calibrated and that might put it at a disadvantage, however, I do have it where the brightness, color, hue, dynamic contrast, etc. visually is in sync with the 960.


In any event, there is still something about the (at least in North America home theater) obsolete CRT technology that Sony perfected with this set that still has a certain punch to it that easily holds it own to the more expensive flat panels in terms of pure picture quality, though obviously not in size and the slight geometric imperfections that are natural even with flat CRT screens. Small price to pay and again, if I want a bigger experience, we have the 37 inch LED as part of our secondary home theater set-up in our den to which we also sit closer to the screen.


----------



## alexretro

here she is. perfect with no issues, just needs a wipe down.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alexretro*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7860#post_23371097
> 
> 
> here she is. perfect with no issues, just needs a wipe down.



Hi Alexretro,


Beautiful site, isn't it?


Will the stand be strong enough to hold it?


----------



## alexretro

yes and yes, the stand is also for a heavy sony tv. although i will get something a bit wider down the road to fit it nicely. so i wiped down the tv and noticed a scratch on the glass, when your close sometimes you can notice the scratch, is there any way to buff or polish off scratchs on glass? the pictures is so awesome im speechless. i freaking love his thing. worth every $100 of of the ones ($1s) it cost.


----------



## First XBR

hello i just got this tv from a local person in san diego county and i love this tv, i have a sony bdp s1000es connected via hdmi but cant access the drc pallete any help would be great and picture settings for a dark room would be appreciated as well


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *First XBR*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7890#post_23374403
> 
> 
> hello i just got this tv from a local person in san diego county and i love this tv, i have a sony bdp s1000es connected via hdmi but cant access the drc pallete any help would be great and picture settings for a dark room would be appreciated as well


I believe the DRC settings are only available when using one of the analog 480i inputs (S-video or composite), not from component/HDMI inputs INPUT6/7.


----------



## First XBR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7890#post_23375094
> 
> 
> I believe the DRC settings are only available when using one of the analog 480i inputs (S-video or composite), not from component/HDMI inputs INPUT6/7.



thanks for the help


----------



## alexretro

i cant seem to reach Video #4 and Video #5. When i switch inputs i can reach only Video 1,2,3,6,7...What can't I see my wii and nintendo on video #4 and #5...anyone know why those are being skipped?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alexretro*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7890#post_23377481
> 
> 
> i cant seem to reach Video #4 and Video #5. When i switch inputs i can reach only Video 1,2,3,6,7...What can't I see my wii and nintendo on video #4 and #5...anyone know why those are being skipped?


Push MENU on the remote, then navigate to the SETUP dialog.


Then go to LABEL VIDEO INPUTS, which is where you could name your inputs whatever you want.


One of the options for labeling is "SKIP", which actually means to not present that input as you cycle through them. I'm sure that's what you have on input 4 and 5. So just change the label for those inputs to something else, and they will now appear as you cycle through the inputs with the remote.


----------



## alexretro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7890#post_23377727
> 
> 
> Push MENU on the remote, then navigate to the SETUP dialog.
> 
> 
> Then go to LABEL VIDEO INPUTS, which is where you could name your inputs whatever you want.
> 
> 
> One of the options for labeling is "SKIP", which actually means to not present that input as you cycle through them. I'm sure that's what you have on input 4 and 5. So just change the label for those inputs to something else, and they will now appear as you cycle through the inputs with the remote.



thanks!!!


----------



## alexretro

so i just got my 960 for $100...i love it........

here are some pics....




also, anyone in the LA area that can work on these tvs? if i ever need calibration or work done, i would love to have a reference. 
IMG_4519.JPG 307k .JPG file
IMG_4594.JPG 257k .JPG file
IMG_4597.JPG 275k .JPG file
IMG_4600.JPG 304k .JPG file
IMG_4605.JPG 375k .JPG file


----------



## DSperber

Very TV nice picture on your 960! Color looks great on those ABC news anchors! Geometry also looks great (i.e. no obvious bowing or curvature, which the 960 is very known for and which requires service menu adjustments and possibly "magnet job" on the picture tube to cure). Whoever had that set previously did nice work on it.


But I would REALLY like to know how you took such terrific camera photos of your screen with live TV images on it, and got such apparently accurate color rendition? What brand/model camera, what special setup if any (i.e. F-stop, shutter speed, white balance, etc.) or just "point and shoot" with a simple (or VERY SMART) camera? What's your trick to taking such great pictures of your TV?


As to your calibration question, your set already looks very very good from those pictures. But if you want to have it ISF'd I would HIGHLY recommend D-Nice (from Columbia SC, but he makes trips to LA regularly). He's an AVS Forum member so you can PM him . He recently did my own 960 on a second visit, and it now looks just like my Panny 65VT50 which he also did for me back in mid-April on his first visit. VERY VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.


----------



## First XBR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alexretro*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7890#post_23378993
> 
> 
> so i just got my 960 for $100...i love it........
> 
> here are some pics....
> 
> 
> Nice man I live in La Sierra Ca, near the 15/91 freeway and just got this tv as well for 60$, let me know if you get it calibrated and for how much, what picture settings do you have i only have it set to movie mode
> 
> 
> 
> also, anyone in the LA area that can work on these tvs? if i ever need calibration or work done, i would love to have a reference.
> IMG_4519.JPG 307k .JPG file
> IMG_4594.JPG 257k .JPG file
> IMG_4597.JPG 275k .JPG file
> IMG_4600.JPG 304k .JPG file
> IMG_4605.JPG 375k .JPG file


----------



## alexretro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7890#post_23379409
> 
> 
> Very TV nice picture on your 960! Color looks great on those ABC news anchors! Geometry also looks great (i.e. no obvious bowing or curvature, which the 960 is very known for and which requires service menu adjustments and possibly "magnet job" on the picture tube to cure). Whoever had that set previously did nice work on it.
> 
> 
> But I would REALLY like to know how you took such terrific camera photos of your screen with live TV images on it, and got such apparently accurate color rendition? What brand/model camera, what special setup if any (i.e. F-stop, shutter speed, white balance, etc.) or just "point and shoot" with a simple (or VERY SMART) camera? What's your trick to taking such great pictures of your TV?
> 
> 
> As to your calibration question, your set already looks very very good from those pictures. But if you want to have it ISF'd I would HIGHLY recommend D-Nice (from Columbia SC, but he makes trips to LA regularly). He's an AVS Forum member so you can PM him . He recently did my own 960 on a second visit, and it now looks just like my Panny 65VT50 which he also did for me back in mid-April on his first visit. VERY VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.



thanks, im also very impressed with the photo and tv. here is a freeze frame of the photos settings using the T2i. This camera is epic. thanks for the reference, now i know who to ask for help! i love this forum and thread. most forums is full of annoying people, here it seems very peaceful. 
t2i-settings.jpg 103k .jpg file


----------



## alexretro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *First XBR*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7890#post_23380315



you live near corona? $60!? wow I though I got a good deal! I have my 960 on Standard for TV and Vivid for video games. Here is a pic of the Standard settings I have.
IMG_4611.JPG 971k .JPG file


----------



## alexretro

the controller i got with the tv doesn't have PIP. does this tv have PIP? if so, how do you use it...


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alexretro*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7860#post_23373229
> 
> 
> yes and yes, the stand is also for a heavy sony tv. although i will get something a bit wider down the road to fit it nicely. so i wiped down the tv and noticed a scratch on the glass, when your close sometimes you can notice the scratch, is there any way to buff or polish off scratchs on glass? the pictures is so awesome im speechless. i freaking love his thing. worth every $100 of of the ones ($1s) it cost.



Hi Alexretro,


Do you have the 960 or 960N? If it's the 960 with the coating, that might not be a scratch on the picture tube but with some of the coating coming off. That has been the experience for many of us.


One tip - when watching the 960, have the lights off that are in front of it and you will not notice any of the coating peeled off. That's what I've learned to do.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alexretro*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7890#post_23380566
> 
> 
> the controller i got with the tv doesn't have PIP. does this tv have PIP? if so, how do you use it...



Hi Alexretro,


It's really twin view - instead of picture in picture, it's side by side. Note: only the left side can be used for HD inputs - the right side only standard definition like VHS, non-upconverting DVD player, standard cable, etc. The twin-view is on the right of the remote control and you slide the select button to the right and left in order to chose which window you want to control (volume, change inputs, etc). The screen will be highlighted in green borders. To make one picture smaller and the other bigger, slide the select button up and down.


If you have a splitter, the coaxial output can be attached to the coaxial input of the 960 and then scan for any unscrambled stations. The menu will allow for the 960 to memorize the available stations and substations.


Hope this helps.


----------



## alexretro


IMG_4613.JPG 1215k .JPG file


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7890#post_23381298
> 
> 
> Hi Alexretro,
> 
> 
> It's really twin view - instead of picture in picture, it's side by side. Note: only the left side can be used for HD inputs - the right side only standard definition like VHS, non-upconverting DVD player, standard cable, etc. The twin-view is on the right of the remote control and you slide the select button to the right and left in order to chose which window you want to control (volume, change inputs, etc). The screen will be highlighted in green borders. To make one picture smaller and the other bigger, slide the select button up and down.
> 
> 
> If you have a splitter, the coaxial output can be attached to the coaxial input of the 960 and then scan for any unscrambled stations. The menu will allow for the 960 to memorize the available stations and substations.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.



this is the remote, is that the remote your talking about? I don't see what your talking about...


----------



## alexretro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7890#post_23381280
> 
> 
> Hi Alexretro,
> 
> 
> Do you have the 960 or 960N? If it's the 960 with the coating, that might not be a scratch on the picture tube but with some of the coating coming off. That has been the experience for many of us.
> 
> 
> One tip - when watching the 960, have the lights off that are in front of it and you will not notice any of the coating peeled off. That's what I've learned to do.



yeah i have the coating, but the coating itself has a scratch for sure, its like if it got keyed. im glad the coating is there, it may have saved the glass from damage.


now, i wonder if i should take it off. (coating) read on another forum where ppl take it off.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alexretro*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7890#post_23381427
> 
> IMG_4613.JPG 1215k .JPG file
> 
> this is the remote, is that the remote your talking about? I don't see what your talking about...


Your remote is not the original genuine remote that came with the XBR960.


The original remote is the RM-Y201, which is available for $34 right now at the Sony Accessories site .


----------



## alexretro

thanks, will order that right away.


----------



## First XBR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alexretro*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7890#post_23381517
> 
> 
> thanks, will order that right away.



man this tv is spectacular, watch a HD DVD or Blu Ray in a dark room an you will be stunned, i couldn't afford the new Panny VT50 or ZT60 so this is as close as top of the line i'm going to get LOL if you need help moving it let me know as this tv is hell of heavy i'm sure u know


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *First XBR*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7890#post_23382123
> 
> 
> man this tv is spectacular, watch a HD DVD or Blu Ray in a dark room an you will be stunned,...



And I suspect that like my similar genre Panny CRT they're also great for SD content unlike flat panels (or so I've read). Suggestion on that front: I was watching an old movie the other day on a 480i station with my receiver set to 1080i - looked terrible until I switched the receiver to 480i output.


----------



## First XBR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7890#post_23382742
> 
> 
> And I suspect that like my similar genre Panny CRT they're also great for SD content unlike flat panels (or so I've read). Suggestion on that front: I was watching an old movie the other day on a 480i station with my receiver set to 1080i - looked terrible until I switched the receiver to 480i output.



Nice input


----------



## alexretro




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *First XBR*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7890#post_23382123
> 
> 
> man this tv is spectacular, watch a HD DVD or Blu Ray in a dark room an you will be stunned, i couldn't afford the new Panny VT50 or ZT60 so this is as close as top of the line i'm going to get LOL if you need help moving it let me know as this tv is hell of heavy i'm sure u know



i doubt the new panny will last as long as the 960. my 960 is 8 years old and still looks like new, plasma won't be as reliable. also those panny are delicate, one hit to the screen and its all over. crts can take a bat to the screen!


----------



## Joseph Dubin

COMPONENT VERSUS HDMI SERVICE SETTINGS.


Well, Cablevision has done it again.










With the new guide we can no longer watch cable through HDMI and listen to Dolby Digital from our older 6.1 Yamaha Audio Receiver via the optical ouput (the receiver does not have HDMI inputs and outputs) and the new guide no longer provides option to switch audio from HDMI to optical.










And, as we all know, the audio output from the Sony to the receiver is not 5.1.


If I want 6.1 instead of pro-logic, the only option is to go from HDMI to component. I notice in Ken Tech's chart that the service settings used for HDMI are the same as with component video except for perhaps one item. Is that what others have found to be the case as well? If so, I can simply do the same with mine. But with all settings adjusted equally (both service and user) will there be any difference - even subtle - in video quality switching between HDMI to component?


The reason I ask is obvious - don't want to slide the 960 and it's all of 230 pounds if not necessary.










Thanks guys for whatever feedback you can provide.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *First XBR*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7890#post_23383245
> 
> 
> Nice input



Thanks!










Man, Cablevision







. Makes me not feel as bad about being a poor OTA guy. I can't believe my friend pays for sat service and the box they gave him only can do s-video (SD sat service but...); unfortunately his flat panel doesn't have s-video so he's further slapped in the face to use composite. Speaking of Dolby Digital, my non-HDMI Kenwood AVR optical in isn't working for some reason (not cable or dirty) but my HD tuner only has optical out







; at least my blu-ray has coaxial out.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi Floyd,


There are coaxial to optical and vice versa converters - I once had one - if that could help for future audio set-ups.


Joe


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi Guys,


I think the user settings are the same for most of the 2107P series for they mostly duplicated the ones I recently changed based on dSperber's calibration sans the GAMS so I think some might not be dependent on input. The user settings needed more adjustment in the PRO mode from that of HDMI (went back and forth to compare). I would say the picture quality is 9.5 compared to the 10 of HDMI - still just a slight less punch in the picture yet so minute (it's because I'm looking for it) that it is of course not worth it to try and tweak further. But this does allow me to again watch HD and listen to 6.1 via optical when I want to.


Still, it is annoying that whenever there is an upgrade in software - let it be G Mail or some other software package, when it involves steps to take it often involves not less but more and making things actually more inconvenient as well as losing something in the process, right?


----------



## First XBR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7890#post_23381298
> 
> 
> Hi Alexretro,
> 
> 
> It's really twin view - instead of picture in picture, it's side by side. Note: only the left side can be used for HD inputs - the right side only standard definition like VHS, non-upconverting DVD player, standard cable, etc. The twin-view is on the right of the remote control and you slide the select button to the right and left in order to chose which window you want to control (volume, change inputs, etc). The screen will be highlighted in green borders. To make one picture smaller and the other bigger, slide the select button up and down.
> 
> 
> If you have a splitter, the coaxial output can be attached to the coaxial input of the 960 and then scan for any unscrambled stations. The menu will allow for the 960 to memorize the available stations and substations.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.



Im not using a digital cable box, i just connected the cable to the back of the tv where it says cable when i set it to auto program it says it finds over 350 digital channels but i only get local channels can anyone help thanks


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *First XBR*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7890#post_23388742
> 
> 
> Im not using a digital cable box, i just connected the cable to the back of the tv where it says cable when i set it to auto program it says it finds over 350 digital channels but i only get local channels can anyone help thanks



Hi First,


Sounds like you need a special card from the cable company to get more stations without the box. The card goes into a slot on the 960, but I do not know where that is located. Might be best to get a HD box and use HDMI connection.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *First XBR*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7890#post_23388742
> 
> 
> Im not using a digital cable box, i just connected the cable to the back of the tv where it says cable when i set it to auto program it says it finds over 350 digital channels but i only get local channels can anyone help thanks


As Joe explained, the only "copy-freely" channels normally delivered are local OTA networks which you could also get without a problem using a roof antenna. All (or most) of the other basic cable and premium channels are marked "copy-once" and delivered as encrypted, in order to prevent piracy (so the theory goes, but it's 100% effective). At least that's how TWC/LA delivers its content.


Encrypted content will show up on your 960 as a black screen. There's no way the 960 can understand it.


In order to decrypt such encrypted programming (and display it properly) you need a cablecard in the 960. All STB/DVR boxes provided by cable systems have a built-in cablecard (locked behind a metal gate to prevent tampering by the user), so that you have no problem watching all cable-provided content through their STB/DVR.


The 960 does have a slot on the back for an S-card (for single tuners, as opposed to M-cards which are what is used in the STB/DVR's to support dual-tuners in those boxes). If you rent an S-card from your cable company (shouldn't cost more than $2-3 per month, much less than the rental cost of a STB/DVR plus service) and insert it in the 960 and go through the "pairing" (required to get the cable company head-end equipment to recognize and authorize use of your cablecard and TV), you will now be able to use the 960 to tune to ALL channels to which you subscribe.


The only thing a cablecard does not support is pay-per-view, which requires 2-way communication which is not possible with S-cards in a TV.


----------



## First XBR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7890#post_23389668
> 
> 
> As Joe explained, the only "copy-freely" channels normally delivered are local OTA networks which you could also get without a problem using a roof antenna. All (or most) of the other basic cable and premium channels are marked "copy-once" and delivered as encrypted, in order to prevent piracy (so the theory goes, but it's 100% effective). At least that's how TWC/LA delivers its content.
> 
> 
> Encrypted content will show up on your 960 as a black screen. There's no way the 960 can understand it.
> 
> 
> In order to decrypt such encrypted programming (and display it properly) you need a cablecard in the 960. All STB/DVR boxes provided by cable systems have a built-in cablecard (locked behind a metal gate to prevent tampering by the user), so that you have no problem watching all cable-provided content through their STB/DVR.
> 
> 
> The 960 does have a slot on the back for an S-card (for single tuners, as opposed to M-cards which are what is used in the STB/DVR's to support dual-tuners in those boxes). If you rent an S-card from your cable company (shouldn't cost more than $2-3 per month, much less than the rental cost of a STB/DVR plus service) and insert it in the 960 and go through the "pairing" (required to get the cable company head-end equipment to recognize and authorize use of your cablecard and TV), you will now be able to use the 960 to tune to ALL channels to which you subscribe.
> 
> 
> The only thing a cablecard does not support is pay-per-view, which requires 2-way communication which is not possible with S-cards in a TV.



Thanks i live in La Sierra Ca and im thinking of switching to At&t Uverse, i currently have Charter which stinks thanks for all the input, I've been watching so many HD DVD's and Blu Rays on this tv they look so nice


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7890#post_23387495
> 
> 
> Hi Floyd,
> 
> 
> There are coaxial to optical and vice versa converters - I once had one - if that could help for future audio set-ups.
> 
> 
> Joe



Excellent, I did not know that. Thanks Joseph!


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi Guys,


FYI - with the service settings now being equal for both component and HDMI, I have been able to get the user adjustments to bring in what appears to be just about an equally brilliant picture either way - but will admit that now I think the component actually has a very slight edge over HDMI (my wife wouldn't notice the difference of course, only those who are picky like me







)


Both are in the pro mode but there are big differences with most all the user picture settings in order to achieve equality. Could it be simply because one is digital and the other analog (even though the 960 is analog itself)?


----------



## alexretro

12 blinks why?


my tv works fine, no issues that i know of. however, it blinks 12 times before turning on? anyone know why?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alexretro*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7920#post_23403233
> 
> 
> 12 blinks why?
> 
> 
> my tv works fine, no issues that i know of. however, it blinks 12 times before turning on? anyone know why?



Hi Alex,


That many blinks is normal. The picture does not come on right away.


----------



## First XBR

Not sure if anyone knows this but if there is no signal being pushed into the HDMI you can adjust the DRC, then turn on you're Blu Ray or HD DVD and the settings stick, any suggestions on how that affects the picture and what settings I should apply for best results.


----------



## DSperber

I'm still pretty sure DRC only applies to ["high quality"] 480 resolution input (e.g. DVD player, analog cable/satellite receiver input via S-video, etc.).


It doubles the number of vertical and horizontal lines from the original content, producing 4X the "density" i.e. resolution, of the original "quality" source.


You can then select interlaced or progressive output (i.e. producing the equivalent of 480p from 480i), or CineMotion (whatever that is), to improve appearance. And you can also customize "smoothness" (i.e. "clarity", whatever that means) vs. "detail" (i.e. "reality", whatever that means).


But it's intended for improving analog 480 input from one of the analog inputs if I interpret the functionality correctly, not digital HD input via HDMI. The fact that you can somehow get it to seemingly "stick" onscreen through button-pushing trickery while having selected INPUT7 in my mind doesn't mean it will actually do anything as designed.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Whenever a 1080i signal is being input, the DRC palette is always passed over. It is good for VHS.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Talking about the DCR palette and VHS, am getting (probably delivered tomorrow) a new magavox DVD/VCR combo. My older VCR was starting to damage tapes when after stopped and left in the unit with the power off at the position the tape was stopped at (not paused). That is why I had avoided using the old VCR.


This one will still be connected the same way (composite for VHS) with component for progressive scan (not up-converting but already have an up-converting DVD recorder so this will be just for use when wanting to watch a DVD while dubbing one. Got it for the tapes - have a collection of silent era pre-recorded VHS that still have not come onto DVD plus some movies I either like - but not enough to replace with DVD - or unavailable.


Too bad the VCR part does not use s-video for the output but it should be fun watching some old VHS on the 960 again - know they looked better than on other sets.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7920#post_23463844
> 
> 
> Too bad the VCR part does not use s-video for the output but it should be fun watching some old VHS on the 960 again - know they looked better than on other sets.



My friend came across a Hitachi VTS772A S-VHS with s-video but no remote which is devastating since this VCR is heavily dependent on the remote; the real killer is I can't change the tape recording speed which is stuck in EP mode which kind of makes the S-quality pointless. Online places want around $100 for a remote - pffft as I recently bought two mint Toshiba DVDRs for $25 and $30 off Craigslist with one also having an HDD (seems many folks were bewildered by the complication of DVDRs with their thick manuals so barely they used them, then unloading them on the cheap when they get U-verse, etc.). Anyhow the Hitachi is a cool machine - a heavy beast with a James Bond-ish front door that opens vertically and automatically when I bring a cassette to it.


I also have his Toshiba W-804 S-VHS with s-video which I mucked up trying to find out where some mysterious broken piece in the box came from (and it turns out it didn't come from this VCR at all!). The head snagged the ribbon cable feeding the head, I apparently didn't get the cable routed back through its guide; I hate the ribbon cable design type (vs. direct connect under the head), accident just waiting to happen. I broke out the magnifying glass and tiny soldering iron tip and painstakingly spent a few hours rewiring it (it ripped out the 4 tiny wires that feed up through the core of the head) and got it to work but now the audio and video are out of sync. There's no obvious adjustment so I'm thinking it's done in the factory via software. Ugh!


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7920#post_23465061
> 
> 
> My friend came across a Hitachi VTS772A S-VHS with s-video but no remote which is devastating since this VCR is heavily dependent on the remote; the real killer is I can't change the tape recording speed which is stuck in EP mode which kind of makes the S-quality pointless. Online places want around $100 for a remote - pffft as I recently bought two mint Toshiba DVDRs for $25 and $30 off Craigslist with one also having an HDD (seems many folks were bewildered by the complication of DVDRs with their thick manuals so barely they used them, then unloading them on the cheap when they get U-verse, etc.). Anyhow the Hitachi is a cool machine - a heavy beast with a James Bond-ish front door that opens vertically and automatically when I bring a cassette to it.
> 
> 
> I also have his Toshiba W-804 S-VHS with s-video which I mucked up trying to find out where some mysterious broken piece in the box came from (and it turns out it didn't come from this VCR at all!). The head snagged the ribbon cable feeding the head, I apparently didn't get the cable routed back through its guide; I hate the ribbon cable design type (vs. direct connect under the head), accident just waiting to happen. I broke out the magnifying glass and tiny soldering iron tip and painstakingly spent a few hours rewiring it (it ripped out the 4 tiny wires that feed up through the core of the head) and got it to work but now the audio and video are out of sync. There's no obvious adjustment so I'm thinking it's done in the factory via software. Ugh!



Hi Floyd,


Well, seems you know your VHS stuff!


One time I hooked up my older VCR to my cable box's auxiliary input and the picture was really bad - but I don't think it was copy protection because the picture wasn't bent out of shape or jiggling. But will say, the 960 did play back those regular VHS tapes quite good.


----------



## bschmidt25

Hey guys-


Glad to see the 960 thread is still going strong! I recently cut the cable and hooked up my 960 to a rooftop antenna, but I'm not getting any channels. I know the feed is fine because I connected it up to my 32XBR6 and get plenty of channels. It's been a while, but I remember having to wait for the TV to warm up a bit before the analog and digital channels would tune properly, so I'm thinking that the q-box bit it at some point over the last five years. Anyone know a source for these or a way to test or repair it? If not, I'll probably have a cheap 960 for someone to snap up. I'd really hate to drag it to the curb. It works fine otherwise.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bschmidt25*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7920#post_23467240
> 
> 
> I recently cut the cable and hooked up my 960 to a rooftop antenna, but I'm not getting any channels.


Are you sure you connected the coax from the roof antenna to the proper "UHF/VHF" RF connector on the back of the 960? That's the one you must use for OTA antenna feed. You shouldn't be using the other "CABLE" connector.


Also, after connecting your roof coax properly did you then perform the channel scan? Remember, there are no more NTSC analog channels to tune from your roof antenna. Everything is now digital ATSC, and the 8VSB tuner in the 960 needs to scan the airwaves locking in on the digital channels it can receive. That results from the "auto programming" function in Setup as described on page 100 of the user manual.


Press MENU button on remote, navigate down to the CHANNELS icon group. Then navigate to the "auto program" item, press OK, and let it run.


All the available digital ATSC channels/sub-channels which can be received by your roof antenna will be tuned to by the 960 and made available for selection. You can then UN-SELECT whichever of those channels and sub-channels you do NOT want to waste time passing through when you use channel-up/down, etc.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Yes, was going to ask if you did the auto scan for the digital channels as well.


----------



## JA Fant

Much Thanks! All, for keeping this thread going strong. And yes, I too like VHS.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JA Fant*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7920#post_23471607
> 
> 
> Much Thanks! All, for keeping this thread going strong. And yes, I too like VHS.



Hi JA,


Nobody denies the visual quality of VHS cannot compare to HD and DVD, however, it's still fun to pop in a bulky (which we didn't think was bulky at the time) and watch something not seen in quite a number of years.


I think one misconception many manufacturers put out is how the tapes wear out and lose quality in time. What I found it's not the tape but the VCR that can damage the tape instead. That's one reason why I got the combo this week - to protect those older tapes. Was thinking of dubbing them to DVD but if the tapes are OK, then why the need?


But I will say that the 960 does an excellent job on VHS's limited resolution and they look better on the old CRT technology than the new flat screen, considering both are HD.


----------



## bschmidt25




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7920#post_23467550
> 
> 
> Are you sure you connected the coax from the roof antenna to the proper "UHF/VHF" RF connector on the back of the 960? That's the one you must use for OTA antenna feed. You shouldn't be using the other "CABLE" connector.



I can't believe I missed the other RF connector... All is well. Almost 100 digital channels! (And apparently 3 analog yet).


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bschmidt25*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7920#post_23477992
> 
> 
> I can't believe I missed the other RF connector... All is well. Almost 100 digital channels! (And apparently 3 analog yet).


Glad you found the problem.


The cable RF connector goes to the 960's QAM tuner, which is the modulation method used for cable TV. If you had an unencrypted channels provided through your cable coax source this is the connector you'd use. In order to have the 960 receive encrypted cable channels you'd need to rent an S-Card cablecard from your cable company and insert it in the cablecard slot on the back of the 960, and then you wouldn't need to rent a STB/DVR from the cableco. Of course you couldn't watch pay-per-view or on-demand using this method (which requires a 2-directional STB/DVR and that S-card is unidirectional) but at least the 960 could be used to view all cable channels to which you subscribe, both copy-freely and copy-protected/encrypted, without any additional expensive hardware/service rental charges from the cable company. Just $2.50/month for the S-card along with any other cable service and premium channel/tier charges which you obviously also must have at a minimum.


The UHF/VHF connector on the 960 goes to its own separate 8VSB tuner, which is the modulation method used for OTA/ATSC TV.


The 960 can actually support coax input to both of these connectors simultaneously. So you would be able to tune to BOTH (a) OTA/ATSC channels from your roof antenna via 8VSB, as well as (b) cable channels from your cable coax via QAM.


----------



## JA Fant

Right On! Joseph -


there are still too many movies out there that will probably never see a proper DVD or Blu Ray release!


Happy 4th of July.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JA Fant*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7920#post_23491330
> 
> 
> Right On! Joseph -
> 
> 
> there are still too many movies out there that will probably never see a proper DVD or Blu Ray release!
> 
> 
> Happy 4th of July.



Hi J.A.,


You too. But then, it's the players that we have less of - sort of like turntables for our old vinyl's.


----------



## JA Fant

All,


Happy 4th of July!


----------



## stea

I have a KD-34XBR960 Jan-2005. Just stopped working with 7-blinks of the red light, on line I see a fix for it.

Anyway, I am unfortunately getting rid of it (I love it, but the family does not share my enthusiasm.

So, it is free for the taking (I live in the NYC area). Anyone that wants to come and pick it up (ha) can have it. Really. Probably within a week or two before it hits the street.


----------



## ransofeb

rigth,The integrated tuner will also allow HD P-I-P along with your D* box.thanks


----------



## danterner

My KD-34xbr960 succumbed to the "blinking lights of death" error recently (it tries to power up but then powers back down immediately). I found and tried the blow-dryer trick, which brought it back to life for about a week until I had to do it again. And then again a few days later. I'm not a fan of starting my television with a hair dryer, I don't want to leave it on all the time, and I'm not good with DIY soldering projects involving risk of electrocution, so a few weeks ago I decided to put this set out to pasture. I listed it as broken and described the problem in detail on craigslist, and put it up for $65. Perhaps unsurprisingly, there were no takers. I changed the price to FREE and re-listed it in the free section of Craiglist. It's been two weeks and there are still no takers. I'd really rather not have to pay a junk removal company. I figured I'd try one last ditch effort to post here to see if anyone here lives in South Florida and wants a free set. (You pickup). I live in Greenacres (33467). If so, just let me know. It's my understanding that if you have the ability to fix it, the parts likely cost only about $20.


----------



## airscapes

Why not be brave and try and fix it? I am sure there are fairly detailed instructions on the process? You apparently know exactly what part has failed... If you want to keep the set, check craigs list for someone still doing TV repair..


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *danterner*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7920#post_23530560
> 
> 
> I'm not good with DIY soldering projects involving risk of electrocution



That's why and I fully understand, the back of these CRTs are quite intimidating.


Thanks for the thumbs up danterner and GL!


----------



## airscapes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7920#post_23530679
> 
> 
> That's why and I fully understand, the back of these CRTs are quite intimidating.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the thumbs up danterner and GL!



Well I guess your right.. I feel the same way about doing my own taxes.. talk about intimidating!


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *airscapes*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7920#post_23531092
> 
> 
> Well I guess your right.. I feel the same way about doing my own taxes.. talk about intimidating!



Yeah almost as intimidating as the other half of certainty - death.


Cool airbrush painting. I finally noticed your link and put two & two together for your ID.


----------



## airscapes




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7920#post_23531448
> 
> 
> Yeah almost as intimidating as the other half of certainty - death.
> 
> 
> Cool airbrush painting. I finally noticed your link and put two & two together for your ID.



Thanks! I should stop reading AVS and try and get back into painting.. lost interest and kind of stopped doing it..said I would get back into it last winter.. never did happen..


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Twice in the past month I was getting the continuous blinks with no picture or sound. Both times I unplugged the set from the wall, waited a few minutes, and the problem went away.


I do notice that when the picture does not come on, one does not hear the automatic degausser pop on when the set is initially turned on.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7920#post_23533308
> 
> 
> I do notice that when the picture does not come on, one does not hear the automatic degausser pop on when the set is initially turned on.



I wonder if it has a manual degauss function somewhere in the menu? My Panny does it by virtue of entering and exiting its Geomagnetic Correction function.


----------



## Kool-aid23




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7920#post_23533308
> 
> 
> Twice in the past month I was getting the continuous blinks with no picture or sound. Both times I unplugged the set from the wall, waited a few minutes, and the problem went away.
> 
> 
> I do notice that when the picture does not come on, one does not hear the automatic degausser pop on when the set is initially turned on.



That happened to me last week and I started to freak out. I too unplugged my set and the picture reappeared. Not sure what happened, but I'm happy my set is still working.


----------



## Floydage

Oh oh, the timers have triggered...







and







to Sony on this one!


----------



## Floydage

Low mileage XBR910 for $50 in SW Fort Worth (not me), looks pristine based on the pics:

http://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/ele/3945166713.html


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi Guys,


Quick question.


You might recall I purchased a DVD/VCR combo for video tapes and that the DVD player was only going to be used when my DVD recorder was in use.


Because the new combo only ouput 480p progressive scan on component cable, I just purchased a component to HDMI adapter which upscales to both 780p and 1080p. Since the 960 only displays in 1080i, will it take the 1080p signal and just display it at 1080i or will I get a blank screen instead?


If so, I'll output in at 720p but was wondering about that in advance. In either case, I know I'll get a better signal than simply 480p. And since the adapter only cost $30 (not tax or shipping) it was still less expensive that having to by a DVD Recorder/VCR combo at more than twice the price I paid for this one.


----------



## JA Fant

Floydage-


that XBR910 is still a sweet CRT! I wish I lived closer to Dallas.


----------



## Floydage

Yeah that 910 is tempting JA but since I already have a Panny I'm being real picky and holding out for a 'nice' 960; more recent model, built-in ATSC tuner, and full HDMI. Unless someone claims the 910 is better for reliability or some key features as I do have a pair of HD tuners. Too bad they're not throwing in the stand.


The 970 is the most recent but was that a cost-reduced version? (no SFP picture tube).


----------



## BTV Mark

Hi, Joe.


Since no one else has replied yet, I'll take a stab at it: You won't see anything feeding a 1080P signal to the '960. You will need to use the 720P output.


Regards,


Mark


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BTV Mark*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7950#post_23550008
> 
> 
> Hi, Joe.
> 
> 
> Since no one else has replied yet, I'll take a stab at it: You won't see anything feeding a 1080P signal to the '960. You will need to use the 720P output.
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> 
> Mark



Hi Mark,


After submitting my question I then suspected such since the 960 was made prior to 1080p. Todays 720p models can accept a 1080p signal and down-convert it. Am not going to even try.










I'll let you know how the up-scaler works - I read that many use a composite/S Video to HDMI up-scaler for their video games so some might be interested.


Thanks again.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Update on that component to HDMI upscaler - it didn't work at all. Guess that is what happens when one thinks they can get something inexpensively to do such a job.


As said, the 480p picture on my DVD/VCR combo is excellent though it just lacks the certain punch that an upscaled 1080i picture can produce. So thought for a few extra dollars I could get the DVD up-converted - none of the new ones on the market have 1080i/p up-conversion unless they are recorders at more than twice the price.


Still, the main purpose was to replace an old VCR for playback purposes and this new model shows just what the 960 can do with it's line doubling mechanism and DCR palette.


----------



## Floydage

Sorry to hear Joseph. I haven't had any luck with upscaling although my Panny CRT only has component inputs max. Both a Toshiba DVDR and a Sony BP look progressively less clear (like there's a haze or something) as I try to increase the format above 480i on DVDs recorded with the Toshiba via s-video input. Now the Sony does do justice to movie DVDs on 480p but CP keeps me from getting anything higher using a component connection. I also have a Toshiba HDD/DVDR and it does good on 480p but that's as high as it goes. I wish I had an HDMI display to try as the first two players have HDMI outputs. I've read that upconversion is complicated and there are a variety of techniques so I wonder if it requires a high-end machine like an Oppo to see the benefit?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7950#post_23571515
> 
> 
> Sorry to hear Joseph. I haven't had any luck with upscaling although my Panny CRT only has component inputs max. Both a Toshiba DVDR and a Sony BP look progressively less clear (like there's a haze or something) as I try to increase the format above 480i on DVDs recorded with the Toshiba via s-video input. Now the Sony does do justice to movie DVDs on 480p but CP keeps me from getting anything higher using a component connection. I also have a Toshiba HDD/DVDR and it does good on 480p but that's as high as it goes. I wish I had an HDMI display to try as the first two players have HDMI outputs. I've read that upconversion is complicated and there are a variety of techniques so I wonder if it requires a high-end machine like an Oppo to see the benefit?



Hi Floyd,


A bit confused. Don't you have a 960? If not, I believe the problem is that up-conversion can only be output through HDMI but your bluray should be able to playback on 1080i if the Panasonic monitor is HD. If it is a matter of just the single HDMI input on the Sony, Monoprice sells HDMI switch boxes for less than $50 which will resolve that problem because it can accept four or five different inputs and output them through one HDMI connection to the set (I use it for the 960 myself).


I have a Panasonic DVD recorder. Once had a Toshiba DVD recorder as well which I had to return because the copy protection kicked in, even when recording from the weather channel using a coaxial input!










To be honest, I was not happy with the picture quality of the Toshiba and my DVD-Rs recorded on the Panasonic look way so much better. I too use a S-video cable coming out from my DVR but the Panasonic also has total flexible recording so if I want to record a movie that takes 2 hours and 15 minutes, I just set it to fill up the disc with that amount only. I record from HD stations so the signal going to the recorder is down-converted to 480i and the recording then up-converted to 1080i as the recorder does have it's own own up-conversion through HDMI.


Compared to the original source, I would say the DVD-R would be between a 7.5 and 8 to the HD broadcast ten. And I would never be able to have the collection of films I do have if I couldn't record them from TV. The only real difference is a softer picture - the color and contrast/black level are actually about the same. And if I record from Turner Classic Movies, one cannot notice much difference up to about 3 hours and 45 minutes for the films are older (even if remastered) as opposed to newer films and prints on HBO-HD, etc.


Although they look good on my Samsung 37 inch LED (up-converted to 1080p), these recordings do look better on the 960 I think due to it's still superior CRT technology. The up-conversion does help on both sets for I've seen lesser quality when playing them back at 480p, 720p.


Hope this information might be of help. There are actually up-converting DVD players for ten dollars more than the adapter I purchased, but it was the VHS feature that I needed.


----------



## Floydage

Hey Joseph,


I'm watching for a 960 but being very picky and not wanting to drive far (most of the goodies are way on the other side of D/FW from me); there's also the issue of needing help lifting. And the fact that I have a Panny CT-34WX50 means that as time passes it may make less and less sense to mess with it at all. This Panny is a pre-DVI/HDMI version of one of these 34" widescreen HD CRTs and without a built-in ATSC tuner (I acquired two HD tuners on the cheap).


The Sony blu-ray can go all the way up to 1080p on its HDMI. On component it can go up to 1080i (copy guarded against 1080p) and it has notes about some copy guarded DVDs/BDs will max out at 480p.


Yeah I could have snagged a Panny DVDR for $10 but too long a drive (tried to plan it as part of a weekend trip to my friend's on the other side of the 'plex but by then it was gone). When I looked the model up the review claimed good PQ all the way up to LP mode - 4 hours sure would be nice.


I do the same type of recording (HD broadcast>ChannelMaster converter box 16:9 compressed mode ('squeezed' into 4:3)>s-video then decompress using the TV's FULL mode). I'd say I get the same 8 PQ on both the Toshiba DVDR and HDD/DVDR; I'm using the XP 1 hour mode. It's not bad on SP 2 hour mode but really starts falling off above that (maybe LP 4 hour mode = 'basic' VCR). I haven't used it yet but I'm pretty sure they have that flexible recording mode where the end of the recording shifts to a lower PQ mode to make it fit (my Sony VCR has that too, pretty nifty). Of course now that I have the HDD I only use the DVDR for dual recording - the HDD is so convenient to just click and go without all the loading of disks, formatting, finalizing, and waiting; plus I can record an HDD recording directly to its DVDR if I want a keeper; another plus is I can watch one thing while recording something else (or time-slip) without having to record at a much lower PQ mode like the DVDR.


Yeah "softer" is probably the appropriate term, the DVDs 'I record' just get too soft as I try to upscale them on the DVDR or blu-ray. They [and the HDD recordings] do look better on the HDD at 480p but that's as high as it goes and it also doesn't have HDMI (OK, compromises...). I did learn to tone down the contrast to really back off that softness.


I dunno, maybe it's up-conversion via component? Someday I'll find out, and the Toshiba DVDR also has HDMI. I used to use the Sony blu-ray for DVD playback but I used up all of my component inputs on the TV with the HDD and HD tuner. Blu-ray disks are a rarity for me anyway.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7950#post_23586052
> 
> 
> Hey Joseph,
> 
> 
> I'm watching for a 960 but being very picky and not wanting to drive far (most of the goodies are way on the other side of D/FW from me); there's also the issue of needing help lifting. And the fact that I have a Panny CT-34WX50 means that as time passes it may make less and less sense to mess with it at all. This Panny is a pre-DVI/HDMI version of one of these 34" widescreen HD CRTs and without a built-in ATSC tuner (I acquired two HD tuners on the cheap).
> 
> 
> The Sony blu-ray can go all the way up to 1080p on its HDMI. On component it can go up to 1080i (copy guarded against 1080p) and it has notes about some copy guarded DVDs/BDs will max out at 480p.
> 
> 
> Yeah I could have snagged a Panny DVDR for $10 but too long a drive (tried to plan it as part of a weekend trip to my friend's on the other side of the 'plex but by then it was gone). When I looked the model up the review claimed good PQ all the way up to LP mode - 4 hours sure would be nice.
> 
> 
> I do the same type of recording (HD broadcast>ChannelMaster converter box 16:9 compressed mode ('squeezed' into 4:3)>s-video then decompress using the TV's FULL mode). I'd say I get the same 8 PQ on both the Toshiba DVDR and HDD/DVDR; I'm using the XP 1 hour mode. It's not bad on SP 2 hour mode but really starts falling off above that (maybe LP 4 hour mode = 'basic' VCR). I haven't used it yet but I'm pretty sure they have that flexible recording mode where the end of the recording shifts to a lower PQ mode to make it fit (my Sony VCR has that too, pretty nifty). Of course now that I have the HDD I only use the DVDR for dual recording - the HDD is so convenient to just click and go without all the loading of disks, formatting, finalizing, and waiting; plus I can record an HDD recording directly to its DVDR if I want a keeper; another plus is I can watch one thing while recording something else (or time-slip) without having to record at a much lower PQ mode like the DVDR.
> 
> 
> Yeah "softer" is probably the appropriate term, the DVDs 'I record' just get too soft as I try to upscale them on the DVDR or blu-ray. They [and the HDD recordings] do look better on the HDD at 480p but that's as high as it goes and it also doesn't have HDMI (OK, compromises...). I did learn to tone down the contrast to really back off that softness.
> 
> 
> I dunno, maybe it's up-conversion via component? Someday I'll find out, and the Toshiba DVDR also has HDMI. I used to use the Sony blu-ray for DVD playback but I used up all of my component inputs on the TV with the HDD and HD tuner. Blu-ray disks are a rarity for me anyway.



Hi Floyd,


That is exactly what I found with the Toshiba - the quality of the recordings fell drastically past two hours - definitely VHS type quality. Right now I am dubbing two films onto DVD-R from HBO-HD - "Chimpanzee" and "Beasts Of The Southern Wild". Combined they take a total of 2 hours and 53 minutes. Already played back a few minutes of "Chimpanzee" and the video quality was really excellent - sharp but just a bit softer than the original.


My user settings are different for watching cable, a store bought DVD and my own DVD-Rs. Use the "movie" mode for DVDs and "Pro" for DVD-Rs with component cables for the DVR (my A/V receiver does not use HDMI and the cable box audio will not transmit Dolby Digital via toslink if the HDMI output is used). I have calibrated the 960 and was able to adjust the user settings for cable using the old INHD station test patterns and for up-converted DVDs with the THX Optimizer. For DVDr's I had to go back and forth between the original source and my recording to get the dubbed version as close as possible to the original - drove my better half nuts as a slight change in brightness would then affect the contrast and then the color, etc. so it took a lot of going back and forth till I was satisfied.


My recorders is only two or three years old but I notice that no more are being manufactured by Panasonic which might present a problem in the future if this one conks out. There are some older models still available and brand new in box which have the hard drive built in.


Do hope you can get a 960 but indeed have two people lift it for you.


----------



## Floydage

Hey Joseph,


Yeah that's why I wanted that Panny DVDR even though I already had two machines. I remember it had a unique name for its recording process that achieved higher PQ at the longer time modes. Of course $10 is a steal and worth collecting DVDRs anyway.











Dual layer recording sure would be nice but I guess is rare for common DVDRs. I know when I was looking for DVD-RW media the DL media seemed almost nonexistent. Those -RWs weren't easy for me to find either at my local brick&mortar stores - not at Walmart, Best Buy, some office supply stores (one had them but too $), and certainly not the drug or grocery stores. Oddly enough I found them at Target and a great price too, only catch is they're Memorex which I'd heard to avoid but so far so good. +RW appears more commonplace. I chose -RW because the Toshiba DVDR manual lists them as 16:9 capable, playable on most DVD players, and can record copy-once programs (no, +RW player only, and no resp. for +RW).


I've noticed somewhat the same issues with user settings. I get differences between DVDs and DVD-RWs&HDD. DVDs don't give me any soft issues, of course they've got two layers to cram more data and they're not sourced from s-video. And I can almost get by with default settings on DVD (480p), blu-ray (1080i), or the HD tuner all via component; blu-rays look fantastic.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7950#post_23590381
> 
> 
> Hey Joseph,
> 
> 
> Yeah that's why I wanted that Panny DVDR even though I already had two machines. I remember it had a unique name for its recording process that achieved higher PQ at the longer time modes. Of course $10 is a steal and worth collecting DVDRs anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dual layer recording sure would be nice but I guess is rare for common DVDRs. I know when I was looking for DVD-RW media the DL media seemed almost nonexistent. Those -RWs weren't easy for me to find either at my local brick&mortar stores - not at Walmart, Best Buy, some office supply stores (one had them but too $), and certainly not the drug or grocery stores. Oddly enough I found them at Target and a great price too, only catch is they're Memorex which I'd heard to avoid but so far so good. +RW appears more commonplace. I chose -RW because the Toshiba DVDR manual lists them as 16:9 capable, playable on most DVD players, and can record copy-once programs (no, +RW player only, and no resp. for +RW).
> 
> 
> I've noticed somewhat the same issues with user settings. I get differences between DVDs and DVD-RWs&HDD. DVDs don't give me any soft issues, of course they've got two layers to cram more data and they're not sourced from s-video. And I can almost get by with default settings on DVD (480p), blu-ray (1080i), or the HD tuner all via component; blu-rays look fantastic.



Hi Floyd,


I've used Memorex and TDK DVD-Rs and have had no problems. My brother also uses dual-layered recording discs on his computer burner.


Compared the recordings I mentioned above to the original source material and was very pleased. Sharp, rich and colorful with just a slightly softer picture. Again, I have to tribute that not only to the Panasonic recorder but to the 960 itself. A zoom mode does have to be used for playing back in order fill the screen and I notice a slightly sharper picture using the Panasonic's zoom mode fed into the Sony than using the Sony's zoom instead. Maybe you'll find a slight improvement experimenting that way too.


Hope you're able to find one of these babies soon.


----------



## Floydage

Thanks Joseph, hopefully that quality transferred to the dubya disks as well.


You know I found the quality a little better when I just recorded in 4:3 mode rather than 16:9 (and hence my desire for -RW disks before I discovered this). After further review it kinda makes sense since the source is 4:3 (16:9 squeezed from converter box) so I could have been wasting data on unused sides of the recording. Hmmm, maybe I'd get better PQ if I used my other HD tuner instead of the converter box and recorded in 16:9 mode? (assuming it actually puts out 16:9 on s-video as I haven't checked). The real question is how is the converter box compressing the 16:9 info into 4:3? (lossy?).

Before I had an HD tuner I used a converter box for the TV. I played around with the box's letterbox mode vs. 16:9 squeezed mode and went in favor of 16:9. General quality was similar, geometry slightly different but in favor of 16:9, but the clincher was that I would see weird horizontal lines or gaps in lettering (using a weather sub-channel) which I presume have something to do with interlace. I don't know if it's the source and/or the way my Panny TV expands the images to fit the screen (LB required AUTO and 16:9 required FULL).

You got me thinking I should see if the Toshiba HDD can expand it better than the TV assuming it doesn't need to be recorded from a full 16:9 source. Now as far as a pure zoom goes (i.e. both horizontal and vertical) I typically see everything get worse as the pixels enlarge.


BTW, do the front doors on the Sonys break off easily? Seems many of the pics I see on Craigslist are sans front doors unless the door disappears from view when opened.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi Floyd,


That is a very interesting point about recording in the 16x9 mode which actually squeezes the picture. I can see it reducing picture quality if it requires more "stretching" during playback. It's not being recoded amaphorically so maybe there is indeed less information in the bite size perhaps making the individual bites the size of recording in something twice as long because of the space that is wasted. Does your set have a horizontal stretch mode like the 960?


My front lid on the 960 is fine - no need to open it all that much.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7950#post_23596123
> 
> 
> Hi Floyd,
> 
> 
> That is a very interesting point about recording in the 16x9 mode which actually squeezes the picture. I can see it reducing picture quality if it requires more "stretching" during playback. It's not being recoded amaphorically so maybe there is indeed less information in the bite size perhaps making the individual bites the size of recording in something twice as long because of the space that is wasted. Does your set have a horizontal stretch mode like the 960?



It's probably similar: "FULL will display the picture at its maximum size but with sight elongation." [and they show a 4:3 image stretched horizontally to 16:9]. So by magic it works for this too







. I think this is common and why they made them put that squeeze mode in CECBs so that folks with 16:9 TVs without digital tuners could utilize the full potential of their screens.

I may have to give it a try someday, unfortunately my other HD tuner is a little buggy (Motorola HDT100 - their first HD tuner). It temporarily loses memory of subs when it loses power (long story but I can recover them through a 5 minute procedure but I oftentimes procrastinate getting ready to record something until the last minute). And I'm too much of a power miser to leave it on all the time as its standby mode only shaves off a watt or two and this model is known to have heat issues (I touched its brain IC and a couple of other big ones while in standby and they were hot). Goofy design on multiple counts and I used to work for MOT














. Otherwise it's a great piece of hardware from a great radio company.


----------



## nmwz2009

Hello all. I have been reading this thread as a guest for months while searching for a KD-34XBR960. Well, I did eventually find one. It's from 2004 in very good shape, with no anti-glare coating problems. Had to drive 200 miles round trip to get it, and transport it face-down in the back of my Prius. Yes, Priuses (Prii?) have surprisingly good cargo space that can hold this beast.


Anyways, it is my first HDTV and today I was looking forward to hooking up my first Blu-Ray player and enjoying some HD content. I bought a Sony BDP-S5100 with HDMI out, figuring that pairing a Sony with a Sony would make things easy. Well, after connecting the HDMI and turning on the unit, I see the Blu-Ray Disc logo while the machine is booting, then the picture disappears and signal is lost. The input source indicator (Video 7) appears and I am left with a black screen. No picture, no sound. When the Blu-Ray logo appears, the XBR960 Display menu indicates 1080i mode.


I hypothesized that there was some output resolution mismatch. Sony's website said to hold the stop button on the BDP-S5100 for 10 seconds, which changes output resolution to 480p. This did not give me anything beyond a black screen, but the TV display now said 480p.


I took the Blu-Ray player to my dad's house and connected it to his computer monitor. The player booted normally and showed the menus, and I updated the firmware. I went into video settings and changed "Output Video Resolution" to 1080i. Then, I discovered another option for "YCbCr/RGB (HDMI)"...these color space options I am not familiar with. It had been set to Auto, so I changed it to YCbCr 4:2:2. I loaded a Blu-Ray and everything played fine.


I took the player home to my XBR960 once more, and was greeted with a black screen. I had written down "blind directions" to be able to navigate back to the video setting submenus, and I believe I tried the RGB setting to no benefit.


The XBR960 is my only HDMI ready display, so I am really at a loss here. I just wanted to watch some movies. What the heck is going on? I do know that my computer's HDMI output worked fine with the XBR960 at many different Nvidia-preset resolutions, so the HDMI port is functional. Now I have to get a DVI-HDMI adapter to use my monitor to change these player settings and test this thing...but I don't know what's wrong in the first place. Any ideas?


----------



## DSperber

I suspect your BluRay player is putting out 1080p for content, which the XBR960 cannot accept. The player might be set to "source direct" or something like that.


You need to force 1080i out to the 960, or maybe "auto" which will trigger an HDMI handshake where the 960 will tell the player it cannot accept 1080p and the player will automatically send 1080i.


But the black screen from the player is indication of 1080p output. You must send 1080i.


On the audio side, if you're sending sound to the 960 then you obviously cannot send multi-channel DD5.1 or lossless audio. You must send PCM 2.0 stereo. Again, you'd think that would be selectable in the player, or automatic via HDMI handshake.


But the absence of sound suggests that the player is sending multi-channel encoded sound to the 960 over HDMI.


That's my guess. Strange that these issues are occurring using HDMI connection, unless the player is set to force the audio/video outputs I'm guessing you're experiencing.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *warpz0ne*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7950#post_23603820
> 
> 
> Hello all.



Hello and welcome! Based on what you've posted it sounds like it should have worked somewhere along those settings unless it's the audio scenario DSperber suggested causing a lock-out of both audio and video.

As another experiment try playing a DVD (as opposed to a Blu-ray disk) - maybe it's stuck in Source Direct.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

I agree that it seems a 1080p signal is being output because that would indeed cause the screen to go black. The fact that you can get the machine's logo to appear on screen shows that the 960 is accepting the initial signal. There is a difference between a 1080i signal which is interlaced and a 1080p signal which is progressive - though on the 960 nobody will ever know it by picture quality.


Do you have a HD cable box or dish to see if it works with another source or an up-converting DVD player that can be set to 1080i?


I'm sure this will work itself out, this being your first experience with HD. Being that it is older is the reason why the 960 cannot accept a 1080p signal.


Congratulations on your new set.


----------



## nmwz2009

  


After some more testing via Nvidia Control Panel, I have determined that the TV does not have HDCP. The BR player must be requiring HDCP for the menu screen as well (how silly is that!), which explains the black screen.

There is another thread on AVS here about the same problem. It seems that this TV is supposed to have HDCP, but it failed, and I have to swap out a board to fix this...? How does something like this happen, anyway?


Got the set ISF calibrated today. Hope a board swap wouldn't screw up the calibration.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *warpz0ne*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7950#post_23614209
> 
> 
> After some more testing via Nvidia Control Panel, I have determined that the TV does not have HDCP.


You mean you connected the 960 to your PC, to see if supports HDCP?


I can assure you that there is absolutely no problem playing BluRay movies from ordinary BluRay players to the 960 via HDMI, assuming the 960 is working correctly. I have played BluRay movies to my 960 via HDMI using three different Oppo players... 83, 93 and 103.



> Quote:
> The BR player must be requiring HDCP for the menu screen as well (how silly is that!), which explains the black screen.


Intuitively, as a long-time owner of a 960 who's played PLENTY of BluRay movies (via Oppo Players) through the HDMI connection to the 960, I intuitively disagree with your assessment here that the 960 is fundamentally not HDCP compliant. It certainly is, at least normally.


Again, I'm more convinced that your Sony player is possibly set to put out "source direct" or "1080p". Again, the 960 cannot accept 1080p, but rather can only accept 1080i which is perfectly fine.


Or, perhaps you've got the player set to put out 24p, which again is something that the 960 cannot accept.


There's got to be some setting which is not right, and which is being FORCED, and which is incompatible with the 960's capabilities.


Looking at the user manual for your S5100, you should double-check what you have in Setup -> Screen settings. I'm positive you're going to find the answer is there, in some item that is mis-set. Please report back here what you have for all of those settings.


But if you use "auto" FOR ALL OPTIONS THAT PROVIDE THAT CHOICE that is generally the safest option as that uses an HDMI handshake between player and 960 to establish what the TV can and cannot accept for that particular option. Then you don't have to worry.



> Quote:
> There is another thread on AVS here about the same problem. It seems that this TV is supposed to have HDCP, but it failed, and I have to swap out a board to fix this...? How does something like this happen, anyway?


This seems to me to be the lowest probability explanation for an HDMI "refusal" because of an HDMI board failure, although I suppose it's possible. But to me I would look more closely at the setup in your BluRay player first.



> Quote:
> Got the set ISF calibrated today. Hope a board swap wouldn't screw up the calibration.


Seems unrelated. HDMI input is digital, and the D-to-A processing (to go to the electron guns) should not be affected I would not think just because you replaced the HDMI board... if that is really the culprit.


I'd honestly have a hard time believing this was the problem. First let's exhaust all examination of your BluRay player. Can you borrow a second player and try it as well, to see what happens? How about your DVR/satellite receiver? Does it play via HDMI?


----------



## washouts

you might be thinking about the 40" XBR - that monster weighs about 300 lbs!


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *washouts*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7950#post_23615090
> 
> 
> you might be thinking about the 40" XBR - that monster weighs about 300 lbs!



Who, what, where, when, why?


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *washouts*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7950#post_23615090
> 
> 
> you might be thinking about the 40" XBR - that monster weighs about 300 lbs!



Hi Washouts,


After anyone tries to lift the 960, those extra hundred pounds on the 40 inch 4x3 model become inconsequential!










The 960 is still a standout with superb picture quality - even after having ours for eight years. Don't think any other set from that time - flat screen, DLP or projector - can make such a claim today. And that's all that needs to be said. Again, we are not talking about size but picture quality.


----------



## BTV Mark

QUOTE: "I took the player home to my XBR960 once more, and was greeted with a black screen. I had written down "blind directions" to be able to navigate back to the video setting submenus, and I believe I tried the RGB setting to no benefit."




Well, this might be too late, but perhaps you could take the player to a friend's house who has a set that can display 1080P. Then set the output to 1080i or 720p.


Also, you may want to check to see if your player happens to also output to component and/or composite when it's in whatever mode you select (1080i or 720p). That way, if the HDMI still doesn't work when you get home you could switch the '960 to component or composite to continue your troubleshooting. (Maybe you have a bad HDMI cable.)



Regards,


Mark


----------



## nmwz2009




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7950#post_23604417
> 
> 
> You need to force 1080i out to the 960[...]
> 
> But the black screen from the player is indication of 1080p output. You must send 1080i.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7950#post_23610042
> 
> 
> I agree that it seems a 1080p signal is being output because that would indeed cause the screen to go black. The fact that you can get the machine's logo to appear on screen shows that the 960 is accepting the initial signal.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BTV Mark*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7950#post_23618237
> 
> 
> Well, this might be too late, but perhaps you could take the player to a friend's house who has a set that can display 1080P. Then set the output to 1080i or 720p.


As explained in my first post, the player's video output was set by me to 1080i and then 480p. It was still a black screen on the XBR960. I believe the HDCP kicks in right after the BluRay logo disappears. The main menu loading animation begins and lasts for half a second before the black screen of death.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7950#post_23604648
> 
> 
> As another experiment try playing a DVD (as opposed to a Blu-ray disk) - maybe it's stuck in Source Direct.


I tried this. When Les Holt was here performing the ISF calibration, we inserted a DVD in the Blu-Ray player. Time counter was progressing. No video, no sound, no change.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7950#post_23614255
> 
> 
> I'd honestly have a hard time believing this was the problem. First let's exhaust all examination of your BluRay player. Can you borrow a second player and try it as well, to see what happens?


I will have to try this soon.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7950#post_23614255
> 
> 
> How about your DVR/satellite receiver? Does it play via HDMI?


I am forced to pay for Comcast "Digital Starter" cable with my monthly rent. Not long ago, I traded in a very old coaxial-only cable box for a new one that has an HDMI output. On the XBR960 via HDMI, It shows the menus but no channel picture or sound - a black screen. Comcast requires subscribers to pay an "HD Technology Fee" in order to see HD content. But...it should still show 480p SD content through the digital connection - only it doesn't do this for me. I believe they have enabled HDCP, therefore I can only watch channels through the absolutely terrible coaxial RF connection (featuring ghosting).

My original DVD player outputs a maximum video quality of 480p over component video, with no upconverting, so it is of no use in testing this problem.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7950#post_23614255
> 
> 
> You mean you connected the 960 to your PC, to see if supports HDCP?


Yes. My PC uses an EVGA Geforce GTS 450 graphics card that is "HDCP Ready." When connected to my 2008 Samsung monitor that "supports HDCP" via DVI-D, the Nvidia graphics control panel indicates that HDCP is supported by the display. When this same graphics card is connected to the XBR960 via HDMI, the menu changes to show that HDCP is *not* supported by the display.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7950#post_23614255
> 
> 
> Intuitively, as a long-time owner of a 960 who's played PLENTY of BluRay movies (via Oppo Players) through the HDMI connection to the 960, I intuitively disagree with your assessment here that the 960 is fundamentally not HDCP compliant. It certainly is, at least normally.


From what I've read, the 960 should be HDCP compliant. But this is my TV, and it's not working correctly.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7950#post_23614255
> 
> 
> Please report back here what you have for all of those settings.


I would like to do this soon, but understand that it is a PITA to take the BR player to my dad's house just to see the menu settings. My Samsung monitor only has DVI, and I don't have an HDMI adapter at this time...I'd like to get a new monitor soon anyway.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7950#post_23614255
> 
> 
> This seems to me to be the lowest probability explanation for an HDMI "refusal" because of an HDMI board failure, although I suppose it's possible. But to me I would look more closely at the setup in your BluRay player first.


It sounds unlikely but possible to me. Maybe there is HDCP-related data stored on the HDMI board that can be corrupted by non-standard input or handshake signals, like the poster in the other thread thought.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BTV Mark*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7950#post_23618237
> 
> 
> Also, you may want to check to see if your player happens to also output to component and/or composite when it's in whatever mode you select (1080i or 720p). That way, if the HDMI still doesn't work when you get home you could switch the '960 to component or composite to continue your troubleshooting. (Maybe you have a bad HDMI cable.)


If only the big movie companies weren't so evil, we would still have new BR players released with component HD output. As it is, this player only has HDMI output. When I was comparison shopping for a new BR player, the only way for me to get an analog output would be to spend at least $120 more on the better Sony player - but it is restricted to 480p composite. Twice the price, no real benefit. I can't afford a more expensive player. I only own three Blu Rays right now, so it would be silly too... The new players are all like that now due to imposed restrictions on how HD content is allowed to be displayed. Analog HD = not allowed. They plugged the "analog hole" for everyday consumers.


The HDMI cable is new and came with the cable box. It is what I used to connect the BR player to dad's PC monitor, and it played a Blu_Ray disc just fine.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *warpz0ne*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7950#post_23623537
> 
> 
> As explained in my first post, the player's video output was set by me to 1080i and then 480p. It was still a black screen on the XBR960.


Well, maybe we should begin thinking that your suspicion about a defective HDMI interface on your 960 might be the genuine explanation here.



> Quote:
> When Les Holt was here performing the ISF calibration, we inserted a DVD in the Blu-Ray player. Time counter was progressing. No video, no sound, no change.


How did he feed the signals for ISF calibration to your set? HDMI, with calibration of INPUT7? Or component video on inputs 5/6?


If he used HDMI, and there was no problem, then your suspicion about the HDCP malfunction factor for your particular 960 could genuinely be the explanation. It's just to my knowledge this thread has never heard of such a reported defect from anyone, which is why I was initially skeptical and much more likely to believe something external as the cause of your black screen symptom..



> Quote:
> I am forced to pay for Comcast "Digital Starter" cable with my monthly rent. Not long ago, I traded in a very old coaxial-only cable box for a new one that has an HDMI output. On the XBR960 via HDMI, It shows the menus but no channel picture or sound - a black screen.


Well, that's not encouraging. If a second HD source is also producing black screen then that would certainly seem to point to the 960 itself as the issue.



> Quote:
> Comcast requires subscribers to pay an "HD Technology Fee" in order to see HD content. But...it should still show 480p SD content through the digital connection - only it doesn't do this for me.


There is no 480p content for TV. It's either 480i for SD, or 720p/1080i for HD. But I'd think that the HD versions of your local OTA network channels delivered unprotected via Comcast would not fall into the same protection category, say as their other basic cable and premium cable channels would. I'd intuitively think they should be perfectly visible via HDMI, having nothing to do with HDCP. But I don't absolutely know for sure.


However I wouldn't think that the 480i SD channels (which are quite commonly the SD 480i down-converted and center-cut or letterboxed versions of the corresponding 720p/1080i HD channels) would be subject to the same HDMI/HDCP issues as true 720p/1080i HDTV content... through the same HDMI connection. I don't absolutely know for sure, but it really does seem unlikely. It's only HD that they're trying to protect.



> Quote:
> From what I've read, the 960 should be HDCP compliant. But this is my TV, and it's not working correctly.


Well I suppose it's possible. But again, this thread has been going a long time and I don't recall a similar issue being reported before yours.


If you have verified that a second HDMI source device (i.e. your Comcast cable box) also produces black screen (and that it is not putting out upconverted 1080p HDMI but rather is putting out 1080i or lower), and you can confirm that your BluRay player works fine on a second TV, and perhaps can also verify that a second BluRay player also fails on the 960, then it would seem a hardware issue with the HDMI interface on your 960 is the most likely explanation.


At this point I would definitely invest in a visit from a service technician. If you don't know who to call in your area, I'd suggest calling Sony for either a visit from a "factory technician" (if they still have them) or a suggestion of a "factory authorized technician" in your area. The set is obviously out of warranty, so this won't be free. But if it's actually a hardware problem and the replacement part can be ordered and installed, then that's the right solution.


Presumably only a qualified service technician will be able to determine if it is (or could even possibly be) an HDMI-related part failure.



> Quote:
> When I was comparison shopping for a new BR player, the only way for me to get an analog output would be to spend at least $120 more on the better Sony player - but it is restricted to 480p composite.


To be technically precise with the wording, 480p is not output via "composite" (yellow). Both composite and S-video are limited to 4x3 480i.


16x9 480p and higher resolutions are available from the component video (3-cable red/green/blue), or DVI, or HDMI.


Anyway, you're not alone. The latest Oppo players (e.g. my 103) have removed analog HD component video output, in deference to "The Suits" who insisted on it on digital-only output for HD in the newest generation of DRM-restricted players.



> Quote:
> The HDMI cable is new and came with the cable box. It is what I used to connect the BR player to dad's PC monitor, and it played a Blu_Ray disc just fine.


A possibly defective HDMI cable is right down there with the lowest possible probability explanations for most common problems.


At this point, I'd say go to a service technician visit (arranged by you or through Sony) as your next course of action. Explain the symptom, and ask him to bring out a working BluRay player from his shop just to use in a test. If it's actually a hardware problem, and if it can be fixed and you want to pay the cost, that's going to be necessary anyway.


----------



## Franz Guignard

I got my 34xbr960 at a Salvation Army last week for $41.24







, I wanna know a couple of things.


The small text at 1080i is virtually unreadable, i'm talking about my computer font size at 1920x1080 resolution, I have it connect to an HDMI cable from my computer.


Can I access the service menu without the remote?


What's are some good settings to have on the video menu for the TV? mines is:

Mode: Pro

Picture: 31

Brightness: 43

Color: 34

Hue: 0

Sharpness: 22

Color Temp: Warm

ClearEdge VM: OFF

Advance Video > Color Axis: Monitor


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Franz Guignard*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7980#post_23632042
> 
> 
> I got my 34xbr960 at a Salvation Army last week for $41.24
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,


Pretty good price, we all would agree. Let's hope it works.



> Quote:
> I wanna know a couple of things.
> 
> 
> The small text at 1080i is virtually unreadable, i'm talking about my computer font size at 1920x1080 resolution, I have it connect to an HDMI cable from my computer.


Realistically the set is much better when used for pictures, graphics, images, movies, HDTV, etc., rather than for small font text characters as would be the case trying to use it as a Windows desktop monitor.


This is after all an analog set, and tiny characters from a high-resolution Windows desktop really do require fixed-pixel monitors for super-sharp rendering. Use this set for images, movies, HDTV, etc.,and you'll be very satisfied.



> Quote:
> Can I access the service menu without the remote?


Don't see how that's possible.


You can buy the original remote for the 960 from Sony Parts for about $34 plus shipping+tax: REMOTE COMMANDER RM-Y201.



> Quote:
> What's are some good settings to have on the video menu for the TV? mines is:
> 
> Mode: Pro
> 
> Picture: 31
> 
> Brightness: 43
> 
> Color: 34
> 
> Hue: 0
> 
> Sharpness: 22
> 
> Color Temp: Warm
> 
> ClearEdge VM: OFF
> 
> Advance Video > Color Axis: Monitor


 See this post of mine from back in May, when I had my 960 calibrated by DNice.


That post shows the before/after calibration reports, as well as the adjusted settings for his ISF calibration in both the User Menu as well as in the fundamental Service Menu groups that affect color.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *warpz0ne*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7950#post_23603820
> 
> 
> Anyways, it is my first HDTV and today I was looking forward to hooking up my first Blu-Ray player and enjoying some HD content. I bought a Sony BDP-S5100 with HDMI out, figuring that pairing a Sony with a Sony would make things easy. Well, after connecting the HDMI and turning on the unit, I see the Blu-Ray Disc logo while the machine is booting, then the picture disappears and signal is lost. The input source indicator (Video 7) appears and I am left with a black screen. No picture, no sound. When the Blu-Ray logo appears, the XBR960 Display menu indicates 1080i mode.


After our various back-and-forth posts, I'm just following up out of curiosity.


Any developments on this issue? Any progress? Any discoveries? Any decisions?


----------



## nmwz2009




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7980#post_23635082
> 
> 
> After our various back-and-forth posts, I'm just following up out of curiosity.
> 
> 
> Any developments on this issue? Any progress? Any discoveries? Any decisions?


I tried an older Panasonic blu-ray player via HDMI and it would not produce a picture either. It endlessly cycled between a black screen in 1080i, no signal, black screen at 480p, no signal, and on and on.


The plan currently is to order a replacement HDMI board and dive in. (it's not the first time I've worked on a TV)


----------



## JA Fant

Nice! score Franz.


Thanks! for sharing your wonderful experience DSperber.


----------



## JA Fant

Warozone -


keep us posted on your project!


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi Dsperber,


Interesting that our user settings would be so different with those service ones you posted after getting your 960 re-calibrated shows our to be so close. I too use the pro mode but have to use the component in for cable since it's the only way I can get 5.1 output to my A/V receiver which does not have HDMI input/output (audio via separate optical will be only 2.0)


In order to get the component pitcher to match that of HDMI, I did have to raise the picture setting even more and lower the brightness as well - the same user settings did not match in appearance. Of course, that in turn meant major changes in color and sharpness with just a minor one for hue.


But even so, on all my sets - not just the 960 - using the test patterns the brightness was always quite lower than the picture. Is it that way on your new plasma?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7980#post_23647318
> 
> 
> In order to get the component pitcher to match that of HDMI, I did have to raise the picture setting even more and lower the brightness as well - the same user settings did not match in appearance. Of course, that in turn meant major changes in color and sharpness with just a minor one for hue.
> 
> 
> But even so, on all my sets - not just the 960 - using the test patterns the brightness was always quite lower than the picture. Is it that way on your new plasma?


Well there's no comparing the meaning of the absolute numbers on the Panny vs. the Sony of course, but yes... even on the Panny the Dnice calibrated value for "picture" (referred to as "contrast" on the Panny) is 94 while the value for "brightness" is 58 (both out of 100).


----------



## nmwz2009

Ok, so I have finished installing the replacement ($16 eBay working pull) HDMI/Audio In "P Board" into my XBR960. Imagine disassembling a TV to do a simple board swap...then think of the most annoying worst case scenario that could hinder that board swap...and you have this situation. The main difficulty is that one of the screws holding the "P Board" to the back input panel plastic requires a whole load of crazy maneuvering to get to. I hope this helps someone, as I could not find any truly useful information on the net. The service manual disassembly instructions were only marginally helpful. I did not know what needed to be removed (or not) until I did it.

**KD-34XBR960 HDMI/Audio In "P Board" Step by Step Replacement Procedure**


Required Supplies:

Phillips size 1 screwdriver (that medium standard size used everywhere, not small)

11mm hexagonal socket wrench bit (for RF tuner 75ohm coaxial nuts)

replacement "P Board" w/ single HDMI port [Sony part number 1-862-252-11, also known as... A-1068-754-A]

parts bin w/ multiple compartments (for all the screws removed)

flashlight

hours of time and superhuman patience


Recommended supplies:

hand mirror

a copy of the service manual, mostly for "Section 1-Disassembly" on page 11, and "Section 6- Exploded Views" on page 141


Steps

0. Unplug the TV completely and wait 24 hours to let components discharge. Safety first. A TV is not worth injury or death by electrocution, not even the 960.


1. The XBR960 needs to be on a safe, level surface...with plenty of working space in the rear to place light sources and move from one side to the other. Have a partner to make sure the front of the TV is stable while you remove rear cover screws. Remember that the TV's center of gravity is to the front (i.e., front heavy).


2. Remove the rear cover coarse pitch screws (x 15) w/ Phillips screwdriver. Five are around the input panel. Arrows on the gray back cover plastic point to the relevant screws.


3. Have your partner hold the front of the TV, while you pull on the rear cover at the sides to gently but firmly remove it. Try not to hit any internal parts (e.g., the picture tube neck) with the cover while removing it. Pull the power cord though the cover and set the cover aside.


4. (You are likely presented with a dusty mess, so get your allergy meds...) Use a flashlight and search for _thick horizontal plastic tabs_ on the dark gray plastic tray that holds the main circuit board. These are next to the tube cradle points towards the front. Lift the vertical protrusions on these tabs to "unhook" the tray on each side, and pull slowly towards the rear (a few inches). Very slowly. Check wires for slack/tightness as you are pulling, especially the thick red high voltage wires coming from the flyback transformer, any wires attached to the degauss coil on the back of the tube, and the speaker wires. Make sure there are no wires getting caught on anything. As you pull, you are pulling the front inputs back into the case. Now you should have some room to work.


5. Now focus on the rear input panel. Use your 11mm hexagonal socket to remove the nuts from the 75ohm coaxial RF tuner jacks (VHF/UHF and Cable). Use your Phillips driver to remove the one short fine pitch screw at the HDMI input port. (Don't bother with the other screws on the external part of the input panel - the panel is attached internally and won't be removed)


6. Grip the small metal "antenna switch" box and wiggle/pull the coaxial jacks out of the plastic panel. This box has five things attached to it. Carefully remove the flat-slotted ground wire, the L-shaped RF connector on the side, and unscrew the thumb-tightened 75ohm RF connector. Leave the other two twisty-tied cables alone. You can now set this little switch box out of the way by laying it over the slanted "MZ Board."


7. You have now exposed the top edge of the dreaded "P Board" that has the HDMI and Audio In jacks. It is in an RF shielded metal box, right next to an annoying auxiliary heatsink for the "Q Box Assembly" (that large thing on the side). Gently remove the long white connector from the "P Board" box. Remove the coarse screw holding the top of the "P Board" box to the rear input panel plastic. Note the weird wire holder fastened under the screw. It just routes the ground wire that goes to the antenna switch away from other things.


8. Here is the really annoying part (what were they thinking???)...There is one more coarse screw at the bottom of the "P Board" box holding it to the rear input panel. This screw is very difficult to get to. If you think you can make it easier by removing the large "Q Box Assembly," think again. That thing will not be removed. (In addition to the screws you can see holding the Q Box to black plastic risers, it has an even more difficult screw to get to underneath the auxiliary heatsink, requiring an L-shaped/right angle Phillips screwdriver. I tried such a driver, and even then it was a stupid idea. Don't bother. It probably has even more things holding it in.)


You need to wedge the hand-grip end of your Philips screwdriver underneath the thick bundle of wires attached to the "Q Box Assembly," and maneuver the tip towards the rear input panel underneath the "P Board" box. Use your flashlight and look through the gap underneath the Q Box near the AC power cord. You may have to wiggle the AC power cord out of its rear input panel slot in order to see. Use your free hand to gently rock the "P Board" and note which screw is being moved. It would also be a good idea to have a look in there using the hand mirror.


Now, hold the flashlight in your left hand and the screwdriver in your right. Get that Phillips tip to the screw and let it bite. Unscrew that sucker (lefty loosey!)...don't let it drop down onto the mainboard somewhere. Keep it in your sight.


9. Remove the "P Board" box from the TV. It has to be shimmied out past that auxiliary heatsink. *Victory!* Now, Remove the four Phillips screws holding the RF shielding box together. You may now remove the defective circuit board from the box, and drop in your replacement. Secure the four screws once again, don't overtighten.


10. Now do everything in reverse order. Note the orientation of the HDMI/RCA jacks, and put the "P Board" back in. Make sure that flat slotted ground wire from earlier (attaches to antenna switch) does not get in the way. Tighten the top screw over the wire holder thing (refer to pic4.JPG), and do your best to get that annoying bottom screw back in. It IS doable. I managed to do it without dropping that stupid screw, and without a magnetic driver. I had my right index finger nail holding the screw head to the driver tip, guiding it to the hole, while my left hand held the hand grip at the other end so that nothing would slip. Do this while looking through the gap mentioned earlier in order to find the screw hole. Tighten the two screws holding the "P Board" to the rear input panel plastic. Put back and carefully tighten the fine pitch screw next to the HDMI port. Attach the long white connector cable.


11. Attach the thumb-tightened 75ohm RF connector, L-shaped RF connector, and flat-slotted ground wire to the "antenna switch." With the ground wire routed underneath the antenna switch box, put the coaxial jacks through the rear input panel, and secure them with the nuts. Hand tighten with the 11mm hexagonal socket. If you have trouble getting the antenna switch box in place, try unplugging the right-angled iLink/firewire connector from the top of the "Q Box Assembly," and reconnect it when you're done.


12. Carefully push the dark gray plastic tray back in, watching the wires, and orienting the front input jacks such that they enter their respective slots and can be seen at the front. The two thick horizontal plastic tabs on the bottom tray should snap back into place near the front. The front panel control buttons (i.e., volume, channel, etc) should be firm and click when pressed, not feel mushy. The front iLink connector jack should be flush or near-flush with the panel plastic, and the MemoryStick slot door should look level.


13. TRIPLE CHECK ALL CONNECTIONS


14. Get your partner to hold the front of the TV. Route the AC power cord through the rear cover, and re-attach the rear cover to the TV. Tighten all 15 coarse pitch screws.


You're done!

---

Dust everywhere
 

Antenna switch
 

P board exposed
 

P board close up


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *warpz0ne*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7980#post_23663190
> 
> **KD-34XBR960 HDMI/Audio In "P Board" Step by Step Replacement Procedure**



Wow! I suspect there will be many well-deserved THANK YOU's in your future as I think I've seen 'no HDMI' posts in the past.


GL!


----------



## JA Fant

Thank You! warpz0ne.


----------



## nmwz2009

Post "P Board" replacement follow up!!


Now my cable box shows video and audio through the HDMI connection! No more analog ghosting artifacts, yay!


And I am also getting a picture from my new Blu-Ray player! Are these the correct video settings as far as compatibility goes? What's the best the XBR960 can do?


Cinema Conversion Mode - *Auto* / Video

BD-ROM 24p Output - *Auto* / On / Off

DVD-ROM 24p Output - *Auto* / Off

YCbCr/RGB (HDMI) - Auto / YCbCr 4:2:2 / *YCbCr 4:4:4* / RGB

HDMI Deep Color Output - Auto / 16bit / 12bit / 10bit / *Off*


Side note: my XBR960 has a manufacturing date of June 2004, and the old "P Board" does not seem to be dated. The replacement "P Board" is dated February 2005. I hope the new board is a more reliable revision.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *warpz0ne*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7980#post_23664937
> 
> 
> Post "P Board" replacement follow up!!
> 
> 
> Now my cable box shows video and audio through the HDMI connection! No more analog ghosting artifacts, yay!
> 
> 
> And I am also getting a picture from my new Blu-Ray player!


Congratulations!



> Quote:
> Are these the correct video settings as far as compatibility goes? What's the best the XBR960 can do?
> 
> 
> Cinema Conversion Mode - *Auto* / Video
> 
> BD-ROM 24p Output - *Auto* / On / Off
> 
> DVD-ROM 24p Output - *Auto* / Off
> 
> YCbCr/RGB (HDMI) - Auto / YCbCr 4:2:2 / *YCbCr 4:4:4* / RGB
> 
> HDMI Deep Color Output - Auto / 16bit / 12bit / 10bit / *Off*


As has been stated previously, the 960 cannot do ANY of these things that modern flat panels can.


So it cannot accept 1080p, or 24p, or deep color.


If you set your player to AUTO, the 960 will reply via the HDMI handshake that it CANNOT do any of those things, and can only accept 1080i. So whether you manually set 1080i etc. or AUTO, the results will be the same. Using AUTO for any option is the safe thing to do, and the HDMI handshake will set everything properly. Otherwise, just set OFF where it's obvious.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *warpz0ne*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7980#post_23664937
> 
> 
> YCbCr/RGB (HDMI) - Auto / YCbCr 4:2:2 / *YCbCr 4:4:4* / RGB



First, congrats! Then, wow:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/4:2:2 

http://www.avsforum.com/t/578801/hdmi-ycbcr-4-4-4-or-4-2-2 


Enjoy!


----------



## JA Fant

Happy Labor Day!


----------



## JA Fant

As we enjoy our 960(s) today, remember the victims & families on 9/11.


----------



## wbrett

My set won't turn on. It just sits there sort of in limbo with the little red light flashing.I've unplugged several times and that doesn't help.I assume its something to do with the power supply?


Any ideas? Worth getting fixed?


Any help appreciated.


----------



## madpirahna

I guess the important questions are: How many red flashes do you see?

Do you have the capability/skill to open the tv & repair it yourself?

How much are you willing to pay to get it fixed if you can't do the repairs yourself?


----------



## wbrett

7 flashes then a 3 second pause, repeat.


I really don't want to mess with it,


200, possibly more if I were fairly confident to get around 5 more years.


----------



## madpirahna

 http://www.avsforum.com/t/928945/you-have-a-sony-that-wont-power-on-and-the-standby-light-blinks-help-and-suggesti 

Plenty of info out there for fixing it. But if you don't want to do it, best you can hope for is to find a tv tech who can fix it. No idea how much that'd cost...

No guarantee on how many more years you'll get out of it. How long did you have it before the 1st problem arose???

If I owned one, I'd want to keep it, but that is just my opinion. I've had TV's fail on me before, but not a 960.


----------



## JA Fant

Experts -


occasionally, while watching cable tv programming, I am getting a 'green screen' sound is present. I will turn off the tv for a few seconds, then, turn back on and picture is back. This does not occur w/ DVD or VHS viewing. Any others experience this ?


----------



## BTV Mark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wbrett*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7980#post_23733226
> 
> 
> 7 flashes then a 3 second pause, repeat.
> 
> 
> I really don't want to mess with it,
> 
> 
> 200, possibly more if I were fairly confident to get around 5 more years.



Do you happen to live in the Chicago area? I recently had my set fixed by ABT, where I purchased it new years ago. They actually did a replacement of the two most-suspect chips, and it cured the problem.


If you didn't buy it from them or don't live in metro Chicago, try going back to your dealer. Perhaps they would be able and willing to make the repairs.


Regards,


Mark


----------



## JA Fant

Thanks! for sharing Mark.


can you post the name and/or part # for those chips?


----------



## Floydage

JA, did your TV start the standby/blinking LED problem? That's what that chip replacement cures.


If you have a cable box, what color does the cable box put out without any input signal? (stuff is typically blue but green seems a possibility).

What connection are you using for the cable box to the TV? Or is it cable into the TV's cable tuner input port?


----------



## archon333

I'm thinking of taking it to ABT I have the same issue, would you please tell me what they charged for the 2 chip replacement? I need to decide if it is worth it or not. It might be time to get another TV. Thank you!


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *archon333*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7980#post_23758208
> 
> 
> I'm thinking of taking it to ABT I have the same issue, would you please tell me what they charged for the 2 chip replacement? I need to decide if it is worth it or not. It might be time to get another TV. Thank you!


Given that you're going to probably spend at least $200 in your repair... if they can repair it... my own personal recommendation would be to use the money better by going to a new modern Panasonic plasma instead.


My cousin's 34XBR800 (even older than my own 34XBR960 from 2004) is "dying" (picture is going pink) and when I was in NY a few weeks back I convinced him to consider that it was finally time to make a change. Problem is his XBR800 was living on a Sony stand for the set, and the entire "entertainment and bookcase" wall behind it was built around an opening just the right height and width for the set. So he had limited replacement options as they were not going to do any reconstruction or remodeling. Plus they had a "budget" and really weren't in the mood to invest lots of money in a new TV.


Doing some measurements, and then some research, I found that a new 42" set would "fit" exactly where the 34XBR800 had been located. Virtually the identical width, and on its base would be virtually the identical height. Trouble is there aren't many 42" plasma sets still being made that are 1080p. Minimum size for 1080p seems to now be 50", at least in plasma from Panasonic.


But Panasonic DID make one inexpensive 42" plasma earlier this year (lower end of the 2013 '60' family), the TC-P42S60. And Sears had a big sale on them back in June, before selling out. However I was amazingly lucky in being able to locate one remaining "refurb" (which amazingly was actually NEW IN A BOX, but only available for "in store pickup") at a Sears store in Lanesboro MA, which is relatively close to Northampton MA where a friend of mine lives. So I bought it online, had it held for in store pickup, and arranged with my friend to pick it up next week, and then bring it to FEDEX for shipping to my cousin in NY. When it arrives in early October I will then fly to NY again (to "do the initial setup", and also to have some NY Chinese and Italian food).


Back here in LA, telling the story to a friend whose old 42" LCD flat screen is also "dying", the seed was planted for yet another upgrade. But researching this same TC-P42S60 revealed that I probably bought the last such set in the country, and certainly the last "new in a box" version. However Panasonic does still make a 50" version of the same entry-level set... the TC-P50S60. And this WAS available "new in a box" at Paul's TV. So this week that set will be purchased, to replace a second upstairs bedroom older 42" plasma which will go downstairs to replace the dying 42". And the new 50" S60 will go into the upstairs bedroom where it will fit much better and be at the proper viewing distance for the room.


Now these S60 models are again at "entry level" in the Panasonic plasma family. But if you're considering your options for replacing your problem 960 other than repairing it (if you even have do still that option), my own recommendation would be to go to a store that has lots of sets on display and look at the Panasonic plasmas. As you may know from my own posts in this thread earlier this year, back in January I made my own investment in a wall-mounted high-end Panny 65VT50 (top-of-the-line in their 2012 family) to replace my own 34XBR960 as the "main HDTV" in my bedroom. After several hundred hours of break-in I had it ISF calibrated by D-Nice (my third on this set, after two earlier calibrations by others left me less-than-satisfied) and cannot tell you how much I've enjoyed this new "home theater screen in my bedroom" decision since.


I also had D-Nice calibrate my 34XBR60 (which is still working perfectly), but to be honest I never watch it anymore. It's literally right next to the 65VT50 and its picture looks just about as "identical" (in color, etc.) to that of the 65VT50 as an old CRT that's 1/4th the physical size can. But truly, it is NOT the same picture. There is really nothing like a large modern high-end plasma set that's been properly ISF calibrated to finally replace the many years of enjoyment the high-end 960 has given me and bring me into the "modern" 1080p/24 world of BluRay movies (not to mention 3D, which personally I NEVER watch because I feel home 3D is inferior, at least on a Panny). Couple this with my investment in an Oppo BDP-103 player which has two external HDMI inputs (e.g. for feeding your DVR through the 103's video processing and upconversion to 1080p for delivery to the VT50), and 1080p/60 HDTV has never looked so good either. None of this is possible on the 960.


Bottom line: consider all your options. If you are open to a new HDTV, go look at a Panasonic plasma. And PLAN on having it (or anything you decide to buy) ISF calibrated after a few months use, for absolute maximum enjoyment over the long term.


----------



## JA Fant

Floydage -



at the present time, I do not have any kind of standby problem(s). I use a cablebox to my 960 via HDMI connection only.


Occasionally, while I am watching tv, the screen will turn light green only. The sound is present w/o difficulty. I can change the channels- no problem- there.


I will simply turn off the 960, wait a few seconds, then turn back on again and the screen is back to normal programming. Strange?


----------



## JA Fant

DSperber -



have you started or contribute to a Panny Plasma owner's thread here?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JA Fant*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7980#post_23761496
> 
> 
> DSperber -
> 
> 
> 
> have you started or contribute to a Panny Plasma owner's thread here?


Sure.


There is the " VT50 Owner's Thread ".


And then there is the " VT50 Settings Thread ".


I've participated in both.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JA Fant*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/7980#post_23761468
> 
> 
> Floydage -
> 
> 
> 
> at the present time, I do not have any kind of standby problem(s). I use a cablebox to my 960 via HDMI connection only.
> 
> 
> Occasionally, while I am watching tv, the screen will turn light green only. The sound is present w/o difficulty. I can change the channels- no problem- there.
> 
> 
> I will simply turn off the 960, wait a few seconds, then turn back on again and the screen is back to normal programming. Strange?



OK so it doesn't sound like the two-chip problem as those look to get stuck in standby with a blinking red LED.


I was trying to figure if it could be the cable box if the box produces a green screen without any input signal (like blue screen on a VCR, etc.). Does the 960 produce any color when you disconnect the HDMI cable?


I've read about HDMI card problems with these sets so you might keyword search this thread on the subject. There may also be a thread dedicated to Sony CRT HDMI problems (i.e. search the CRT sub-forum).


----------



## JA Fant

Thanks! for sharing DSperber.


Floydage -


about 2 months ago I did change out the cable box. Honestly, I believe this to be the culprit (or the cable box's signal). My 960 is 8 years old now, so I expect a hiccup, every now & again. I was simply covering my bases, as I am not, ready to give up this wonderful tv!


----------



## Floydage

In that case I'd try a test with something else that's HDMI if you got it.


----------



## JA Fant

Right On! Floydage.


the HDMI cable works great w/ both my Pioneer Elite dvd player and regular Sony dvd player.

Has to be my cablebox and/or cable company signal...


----------



## Floydage

Just for grins see what color you get when you unscrew the coax from the cable box (although it may be a cable box HDMI circuit issue).


----------



## JA Fant

Bright Blue.


----------



## JA Fant

Floydage -


has your 960 received an ISF calibration? If so, when and whom performed ?


----------



## Floydage

I don't have one (yet) but looking. I have a little older Panny Tau version. DSperber's posts are a good source for cal. info.


Yeah blue is what I would expect from most electronics. I suspect the green is being generated via some circuit issue.


----------



## JA Fant

The Panasonic Tau is a fine crt, as well as, JVC iART series.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JA Fant*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8010#post_23772267
> 
> 
> The Panasonic Tau is a fine crt, as well as, JVC iART series.



Thanks for the complement!







I do love it and its superb 5 speaker sound with bizarre audio waveguides built into the cabinet but HDMI and a built-in HD tuner would be nice; SFP tube too although I wonder if I would really notice the difference on mere 34" TV?


Would be nice to have a list of all the 'fine' sets like these for craigslist hunting.


----------



## Trojita

Slightly offtopic maybe?


I have my XBR960 at my parents house. I don't have a chair or couch in my bedroom where it is located to sit on. I'd like to buy a pair of furniture. Right now the XBR960 is resting on the matching stand, which I believe sits pretty low to the ground. I was thinking about getting an Ikea Poang, but I'm worried that the line of site from the poang chair to the TV would be off. The Poang chairs look like they sit you back with your head tilted upwards a bit.


----------



## hortonj


Hello- I used to peruse this thread when I was considering making my KD-34XBR960 purchase years ago.

 

It was/is the greatest television picture I've ever seen.  Unfortunately for me, I've had to keep mine in storage for the last three years (in good condition, boxed and climate-controlled), and am now moving and can't haul it with me (HAUL being the key word, as we all know the weight...)

 

Nonetheless, before I release to the savages on Craigslist, I wondered if anyone would like a go at it?  It was purchased in 2006, and is in fantastic shape, with no damage to the screen, and all the components work.   I still have the remote (but that is cracked, though still absolutely usable.)

 

Unboxed and low-quality photo attached, but you can kinda see the deal.  It's a great TV (and I hate to lose it...)

 

I'm in Lexington KY, and if you are interested, send an email to hortonj AT gmail.com.  I don't want to chuck it, and I really don't have the gumption to move it again, so if you can arrange something, let me know.  I'll take a pittance for a good home...(like a puppy...)

 

JH


----------



## pqwk50


I've read in a few places that the XBR960 outputs "Native Resolutions" of 480p and 1080i. That is, it scales 720p to 1080i and it scales 480i to 480p.

 

Can anybody confirm this? Can the XBR960 scale to more than one resolution? How can I find this out?


----------



## LiquidSnake

If you feed this TV 480i, you will get 480i.

If you feed it 480p, you will get 480p.

If you feed it 720p, you will get 1080i.

If you feed it 1080i, you will get 1080i.


This screen can actually physically resolve more resolutions than these three, but you will only ever see them if you feed it non-standard resolutions such as you might get from a computer. It is not in the scaling its resolutions in the sense of the word, except possibly in the case of 720p, and even then, it is doing most of its work just interlacing the progressive broadcast that it is fed.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LiquidSnake*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8010#post_23997710
> 
> 
> If you feed it 720p, you will get 1080i.



Darn, I was hoping the 960 could display 720p. If you know, were any of this genre (CRT TV widescreen HD 34" or larger) capable of 720p display? [a poster claimed as such in a 'generic' sense but...]


____________


Does anyone know how to make this forum/editor not display so wide? Sucks especially for a non-widescreen monitor, but would suck IMO anyway. Seems to have just started doing this recently, or at least wider than I remember.










Edit> I figured it out in Preferences:


"View Forums Full Width(?)

Constrain Threads to Constant Width(?)"


Oddly enough unchecking the first one didn't do the trick as I had to check the second one (Constrain...).


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8010#post_23998382
> 
> 
> Darn, I was hoping the 960 could display 720p. If you know, were any of this genre (CRT TV widescreen HD 34" or larger) capable of 720p display? [a poster claimed as such in a 'generic' sense but...]in...).


Before its picture tube died (triggering me to replace it with a 34XBR960), I owned a Sampo SME-34WHD5 (vintage 2000) as my very first HDTV. Before the 960 existed, this Sampo was reputed to be "THE reference CRT/HDTV". And I can confirm that its picture was really really stunning.


One of the Sampo's claim to fame was its ability to display 720p native. No upconvert+interlace for display at 1080i.


Of course the Sampo no longer exists for sale.


Having owned both, I can objectively state that the image on the 960 is significantly better than that of the Sampo, looking much more "film-like". But while the 960 accepts 720p input, it displays it at 1080i.


----------



## Floydage

Thanks DSperber! I'd never heard of a Sampo but now I know that 720p display was possible with the right CRT. Would be nice to have that capability to avoid interlace annoyances.


----------



## LiquidSnake

I'd be on the sceptical side of that set, old as it is, actually handling 720p properly, but it is possible to make a CRT that can do this. The main issue is/was cost, you'd first want to have a very strict grade of tube for denser phosphors than usual (outside of a computer display, easier to do as they are much smaller), and a 720p signal requires more bandwidth than a 1080i signal. Additionally, multiple resolutions can easily be supported with the cheaper chipsets that handle 1080i by way of fractioning the broadcast. This would not be so easily done with 720p so you are dealing with essentially extra logic just for this one resolution. I know that the "multiple resolutions" I described only need to be 480i and 480p, but still, this can all be done with the same processing that manages 1080i. You can also just halve it easily and get a 540p image, in fact a lot of the oldest CRTs that did accept 720p would just drop in 540p, and they looked mighty fine for it. I'd bet the Sampo probably does this or something similar, but I of course cannot speak absolute about it having never even seen one.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LiquidSnake*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8010#post_24004455
> 
> 
> I'd be on the sceptical side of that set, old as it is, actually handling 720p properly


Just do some simple Googling to research this, and you'll find that this was the set's remarkable characteristic... even back in 2000.

Early announcement/review in Widescreen Review. "Sampo HDTVs are the only television products on the market today that display 480i, 480p, 1080i and 720p in native resolution without down-converting the original signal source to match display limitations. As a result, the SME-HD line eliminates data degradation or loss from the conversion process, allowing viewers to see images as intended by the broadcast.Sampo HDTVs, compatible with any PC, can also be used as multi-scanning PC monitors. Picture quality of SME-HD surpasses those of competitors."


Also from Widescreen Review on 2001 CES show . "pure-flat progressive scan monitors and a 34-inch pure-flat widescreen monitor. All models include high definition component video inputs and 1080i native resolution support. The flagship 34-inch can also display 720p signals in native format without down-conversion. In addition, Sampo HDTVs are compatible with any PC. Picture quality of the widescreen monitor surpasses that of competitors - the Sampo product displays computer graphics at XGA (1024 x 768 pixels) without compromise, whereas traditional HDTVs display only at SVGA (800 x 600)."


Also, from assorted other articles, reviews, and forums/comments online at the time in the early 2000's...


"This is the best direct view HDTV out there! The monitor is professional grade from Toshiba, this is the only t.v. that uses this tube in the U.S. The progressive picture is amazing, the style is wonderful. I'll admit that regular NTSC broadcasts suck, but I definitely didn't spend $1300 for an HDTV to watch over the air, cable, or satellite NTSC broadcasts. I bought this t.v. because it's the only 16:9 direct view that displays 720p in it's native form, and the only one that can display XGA. Connect this monitor through the progressive component inputs and the RGB input and you will be in heaven!"


"Part of the reason to get the Sampo IS 720p native. If you don't care about 720p native then maybe a Phillips direct view would be a better, more automated choice. The reason I am willing to go with a non local supported tv is the 720p and multiscan abilities of the sampo. I refuse to spend $3k and not have THE setup with ALL HD abilities"


"I've seen the 34" 16:9 CRT from Sampo for $1,839 (Sampo SME-34WHD5, the tube is manufactured by Toshiba, and is better than the tubes in any Toshiba-branded sets sold in the United States). It displays 720p... EASILY. Actually, 720p "only" requires a 45Khz horizontal scan rate. The 34WHD5 scans up to FIFTY-TWO Khz! It also supports 480p at up to 120Hz, instead of being limited to 480p/60Hz like most HDTVs. That's only really useful if you have a home theater PC, but still... Oh, it also has the highest video bandwidth I've ever seen in a consumer television, and BOTH VGA and wideband component inputs."


Back in those days where true broadcast HDTV source content was in its infancy, it was big to be able to connect the Sampo "monitor" to PC's, with "high resolution graphics video cards", and custom output resolutions, etc. Remember, this was before BluRay/HD-DVD. DVD's were the thing, and 480p progressive was fantastic.


----------



## Ppuno

After 9 great years of service, I believe my tv died on me. I was playing a game on the PS3 and suddenly the picture went dark. I tried to plug and unplug the power cord, but it won't turn back on. No flashing lights, just dead. Any hope?


----------



## goohsm

After adjusting the overscan in service menu I feel that my 34xs955 turns on significantly slower than it used to.

Can anyone check me how many times the red light of a working 34xbr960/34xs955 blinks before the screen is on?


----------



## messmerized


Hello 960 folk,

 

Mine's giving 20 blinks then nothing. No power-up.

Instead of fixing, I'm letting you know that it's for sale on Nashville craigslist for $25.

 

It's not an "N" so it has the AR coating, and yes there are patches missing.

I never saw them while watching the set so I never removed the coating.

 

Almost free to a good home.

Or, will go to the recycler one of these days.

 

Jim in Nashville


----------



## Tkbalt

I have a 960 - new to me in 2007 - It still works perfectly and is on the Sony stand for it. It is in the basement now and gets used very little.


Update 1/4/14 - The beast has been donated to a friend


----------



## messmerized


Ok, following Tkbalt's lead the 20-blink dead 960's free for the taking from my ground-floor location in Nashville.

Gettin antsy to haul it to the e-recycler pretty soon.

 

Had 3 good years with the beautiful tube, which I drove to Atlanta to get in 2010 for $200.

Thanks to AVSF and this thread for helping me pick my first hi-def set then.


----------



## Patfl1

I surfed this forum for years, if hopefully someone else could use an awesome set.


I have a great condition 960 in the Tampa Bay area that was just replaced. Moved to a much smaller house (location 3x







) and needed to mount a TV on a wall.


If anyone is interested, I have the matching stand...it is yours for free. email me at patfl1 at hotmail for a fast response.


----------



## MotorCityJoe

I just upgraded my xbr960 (which is still going strong) to a Panny TC-P50ST60. Im keeping my xbr960 till it dies


----------



## bad_crc

Hey folks, having issues w/ a recently purchased google chromecast connected via the hdmi port on my xbr960. My suspicion is the thing is trying to output @ 1080p which the tv will not accept and I'm left w/ a blank screen. I've done some searching and it currently doesn't look like there's a way to force the output on the chromecast to 1080i so I'm wondering if there is anything that can be done via the tv ( via the service menu ) to have the hdmi port communicate a different resolution to the chromecast. 720p seems to work for people whose TVs support it natively. This is more of a limitation on google's part than sony's, I'm just wondering if there's a good work-around.


thanks!


----------



## JA Fant

Getting ready to start my 9th year w/ my 960N.


Happy New Year!


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JA Fant*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8010#post_24134019
> 
> 
> Getting ready to start my 9th year w/ my 960N.
> 
> 
> Happy New Year!



Congrats. Mine is dying a slow death. It keeps randomly shutting off.


----------



## JA Fant

Hang in there JohnGZ28 -


as luck will have it, you can find these sets in thrift/goodwill stores on the cheap.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JA Fant*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8010#post_24138391
> 
> 
> you can find these sets in thrift/goodwill stores on the cheap.



They sell TV's this big and heavy? The charities here that send out those postcards to pick up stuff at the front door say electronics have to be light enough for the driver to be able to pick up by himself.


----------



## JohnGZ28




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JA Fant*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8010#post_24138391
> 
> 
> Hang in there JohnGZ28 -
> 
> 
> as luck will have it, you can find these sets in thrift/goodwill stores on the cheap.



I'm trying to hold on. The set can work fine for a couple of weeks then it will randomly shut off while viewing. I unplug it for about 30 seconds and plug it back it. It will be fine for 5 minutes and shut off or work for 5 hours and shut off. No rhyme or reason when it is going to shut down.


----------



## JA Fant

Happy New Year!


here's to another year of enjoying our 960/960N CRTs.


----------



## NeilPeart

What to do with a Sony KD-34XS955N? We are starting to remodel the living room and my wife wants the old tube moved out in favor of my Pioneer plasma. The unit has been calibrated and still looks amazing but I don't think someone will want it (and I certainly don't want to ship it anywhere). I even have the matching stand. I've been asking friends but no one wants it. Any ideas?


----------



## S21urcle


Man if I lived near you I'd pick it up in a heartbeat..


----------



## JA Fant

Neil-


you will find it a good home. Those are still excellent CRT sets.


----------



## NeilPeart

Thanks fellas - I posted an ad for it here in the classifieds: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1510247/sony-kd-34xs955n-super-fine-pitch-crt-hdtv/0_100 


We'll see if anyone in my neck of the woods is looking...


----------



## JA Fant

Over the years several of these sets have been offered (even free) in the Bay Area. I wish I lived closer to ya. I would stock-plie these CRT(s) in my garage for the future


----------



## Lucky Ducky

It comes with the stand too? I wish you were in Seattle, I would throw you 200 bones for that set up in a heart beat.


----------



## NeilPeart

If you have an extra ticket for the NFC game between my Niners and your Hawks we could call it even







I would even deliver it


----------



## S21urcle


I just picked up my first KD-34XBR960 yesterday!! Drove 3.5 hours to Albuquerque to pick it up. The guy had it on with a DVD playing in his garage and it looked alright but now that I have this beast in my house I can easily see that the convergence is a tad off, overscan needs adjustment, and the geometry on both sides of the screen bow downwards. Can someone direct me to a tread/post that details how to tweak these issues for a newbie? I know how to get in the service menu but I'm a bit lost on what to do there. I realize that I probably won't get it absolutely perfect but the PQ looks pretty terrible right now..


----------



## Lucky Ducky




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NeilPeart*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8040#post_24201750
> 
> 
> If you have an extra ticket for the NFC game between my Niners and your Hawks we could call it even
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would even deliver it



You wanna pay to see the Niners get beat! Well I won't go to a stadium, it is too cramped in there for me shoulder to shoulder. Should be good weather for the game, partly cloudy and cool. I grew up in San Francisco and Hillsborough so I am a Niners fan too. Should be a good game.


----------



## OldSchoolGamer12

Can anyone please help me? My 34XBR960 won't display progressive signals but it will display 480i and 1080i just fine. Did I mess up in the service menu? I was just trying to get rid of the overscan which is what I did, then the problem occurs a week later.


----------



## Floydage

Are you sure your source didn't change to 1080p? (you didn't specify which resolution of progressive signal)


----------



## OldSchoolGamer12

Never mind, I got fixed (don't know how). But now for some reason in normal mode the screen is horizontally stretched. Any way to fix it?


----------



## OldSchoolGamer12

The progressive signals are 480p and 720p. But that problem is fixed. What I want to know though is why is normal mode stretched horizontally?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OldSchoolGamer12*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8040#post_24234996
> 
> 
> Never mind, I got fixed (don't know how). But now for some reason in normal mode the screen is horizontally stretched. Any way to fix it?


Push the "screen mode" (left one from the middle row of buttons of the remote) repeatedly, to cycle through the various stretch/zoom modes.


Screen would only be non-FULL/normal 16x9 automatically if the channel source content is not 16x9, but rather 4:3 SD. That's the only type of source content where zooming is possible.


----------



## OldSchoolGamer12

Tried that, it didn't work. I should explain a little more. Normal mode (4:3) is letter boxed instead of pillar boxed. Something in the Service menu I should do to fix it? The other modes work great, but I want to fix normal mode. Has anyone experienced this? Now it's like a combination of both letter boxed and pillar boxed.


----------



## OldSchoolGamer12

For example, I'm watching The Wire right now and it's letter boxed instead of pillar boxed since it was shot in 4:3. My player is fine, so it has to be something with the TV.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OldSchoolGamer12*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8040#post_24238632
> 
> 
> Tried that, it didn't work. I should explain a little more. Normal mode (4:3) is letter boxed instead of pillar boxed. Something in the Service menu I should do to fix it? The other modes work great, but I want to fix normal mode. Has anyone experienced this? Now it's like a combination of both letter boxed and pillar boxed.


You need to provide the channel number you're watching, and whether this is a 480i 4:3 SD channel or a 16:9 HD (720p/1080i) channel.


It is impossible for 16:9 to be presented as anything other than 16:9. Only 4:3 480i can be zoomed or stretched by the set.


Furthermore, the 4:3 480i broadcasting network itself can change the format of what it sends out, depending on its own policy. If it starts with a 16x9 image but broadcasts it in 4:3 then it has two choices: (1) chop off left and right "wings" so that it fits in the 4:3 space using all of the vertical space available, which will appear "pillar bar" (black on left and right) with image going from top to bottom of the screen, or (2) letterbox the 16:9 original image to retain the complete rectangular image in OAR, but since it is being presented in the 4:3 space that ends up with black bars on top and bottom (to produce the rectangular image) along with the black bars on left and right (because it's shown in a 4:3 space), producing what is commonly called "postage stamp".


So the problem begins with the fact that you're watching a 4:3 SD 480i channel. Then the issue is influenced mostly by how the channel is broadcast, either "cropped to 4:3" or "letterboxed 16:9 to retain OAR". Since it will be presented in a 4:3 space on the screen, whatever the channel is sending will be further influenced by whether you have the TV do a stretch or zoom... of the 4:3 space. If you leave it alone, then what you see is entirely the result of how the channel broadcasts that 16:9 image in the 4:3 space, either cropped (producting pillar box) or letterboxed (producing postage stamp).


Now, you can zoom or stretch with the TV, but it's only going to affect whatever is arriving from the channel broadcast itself.


----------



## OldSchoolGamer12

The thing is is that I don't watch TV on it, I play consoles and watch DVDs on it. I should take a picture and post it to show you all what it looks like. I'll do it later today.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OldSchoolGamer12*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8040#post_24239867
> 
> 
> The thing is is that I don't watch TV on it, I play consoles and watch DVDs on it. I should take a picture and post it to show you all what it looks like. I'll do it later today.


Whether it's a DVD player or a gaming console, the method of connection (i.e. the type of cable) between source device and 960 determines what is possible. Is it RF-coax, composite, S-video, component video, DVI-to-HDMI, or HDMI? And to which input on the 960?


The cabling and INPUT1-7 of the 960 imposes its own built-in limitations on how content gets delivered and potentially displayed, same as when viewing a 480i 4:3 SD program.


Similarly, setup options in the source device also contribute to what gets sent out and how.


You need to provide complete details and specifics, in order to get to the bottom of the mystery. But it is NOT the 960 which is doing "postage stamp" presentation. It doesn't do that. The source device must be delivering 480i 4:3 output of a 16x9 original image (e.g. DVD), and you've got that source configured to deliver "letterbox 4:3" so as to retain the original 16x9 OAR rectangular image. The fact that this letterboxed 4:3 image is going into the 4:3 area of a 16:9 screen (on the 960) will produce "postage stamp".


But this is not the fault of the 960. It is everything external to the 960 from the source device and content which is responsible. Yes, the 960 can try to overcome "postage stamp" to some degree by ZOOM (i.e. just blow up what is that central "postage stamp" in both vertical and horizontal dimensions, to try and fill the 16:9 screen from the smaller "postage stamp" magnified), but it's not true HD and it may not be perfectly filling the screen completely.


This can only happen if the source device is configured to not deliver 16:9 content, such as when you use the wrong cable. You can't get true 16x9 if you're not using component video, DVI-to-HDMI, or HDMI cables. Any other cabling will result in 4:3 image on the 16x9 screen of the 960, and the subsequent consequences we've talked about.


So... please provide really specific details of say a specific "failure", and then we can pick it apart and explain what's really happening.


----------



## OldSchoolGamer12

I'll try my best. I'll post up the problems tomorrow as soon as I'm done examining the problems. Thank you so much. YOU GUYS ROCK!


----------



## OldSchoolGamer12

Okay, I went into the service menu while in normal mode and then this "VC 960i" appears on the screen also. Does that have something to do with my normal mode getting widescreen bars?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OldSchoolGamer12*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8040#post_24248840
> 
> 
> Okay, I went into the service menu while in normal mode and then this "VC 960i" appears on the screen also. Does that have something to do with my normal mode getting widescreen bars?


A picture's worth 1000 words.


I don't know what "VC 960i" is, or what it comes from.


I also still don't know what you're watching, when you say "normal mode getrting widescreen bars". Is this TV? HD or SD channel?? Games? DVD from SD or BluRay? Input on HDMI or composite or S-video or component or composite or RF-coax, or what??


I'm not trying to be difficult. I'm trying to be very specific in wanting to diagnose your symptom, but in the absence of your providing specific details of "the event" in words, well "a picture's worth 1000 words".


Can you post a picture or two? Or just describe precisely all of the exact details I'm asking for regarding the environment surrounding this exact symptom.


Thanks.


----------



## OldSchoolGamer12

Want pictures? Alright here you go, when I said Normal mode getting widescreen bars, I mean from everything: TV, Games, DVD, composite, s-video, component, HDMI, you name it.


Proof here I have it displayed in Normal mode aka 4:3, notice the letterbox bars on the top and bottom when it's suppose to be pillarboxed:

http://www.avsforum.com/content/type/61/id/359084/width/1000/height/1000 


Here it is without the display menu, again notice the "VC 960i" in the service menu:

http://www.avsforum.com/content/type/61/id/359085/width/1000/height/1000 


That is about as much as I can do for now, if you guys want more information I'll be glad to post it in this forum.


----------



## DSperber

Why is your input showing "cable"? Do you have a roof antenna? Are you feeding your cable system coax to the 960 using the "cable" connector?


There are two RF coax connectors on the back of the TV. Roof antenna coax should be going to the "VHF/UHF" connector. And of course since all OTA broadcasts are now digital, you need to do a "channel scan" to be able to pick up off-air digital channels. Presumably you'd then also edit the digital channels which were discovered, as I'm sure you don't really want to watch or even tune to all of them. The OTS/ATSC tuner that supports this "VHF/UHF" connector is an 8VSB tuner, for off-air broadcasts.


So first, I'm confused why the selected input is showing "cable". How can there be no channel signal on "cable" if you're using cable coax to feed the 960's cable connector? Are you not tuned to a cable channel at this moment? The tuner that supports the "cable" connector is a QAM tuner, which is how cable systems deliver their channels.


Also, I see some RCA cables connecting to the front of the set. That would be INPUT2. And of course it is limited to SD 480i 4:3 source content. What is the source device you use to feed this input?


You should have something real actually presented on the screen from one of the INPUT1-7 inputs when you go into the service menu or user menu, so that you can understand what the set is working with. I don't know what is supposed to happen if you are set on an input source that has no signal, as you show here.



Now, as far as that "VC 960i", well the Service Manual only has one reference to it. I'm not a trained Sony engineer, but the wording here suggests this is related to item 26 (IDSW) in the service menu 2170P-4 group. However it also says this is only applicable to 4x3 TV's that share the same chassis as the 960. This seems consistent with my own 960, that only has items 1-25 in group 2170P-4. There is no item 26, which is what I would expect since the 960 is not a 4:3 set.


Anyway, this item apparently controls "vertical compression", and "VC 960i" corresponds to a value of 4 for that item 26 IDSW. To me, "vertical compression" would seem to be a good description of the picture you show. But as to why this would be in effect on a 16x9 960 set is beyond me. Can you run through the service menu groups to the 2170P-4 set, and then see if you actually do have an item 26???











This is definitely ABNORMAL for true regular 16x9 source input.



As far as where black bars should appear (if at all), left or right or top or bottom, this only applies to 4:3 source content. And it is influenced by your screen mode setting, which only affects 4:3 source content.


You have no content on the screen, so I'm not surprised things don't seem right. I would like to see a picture of what you're complaining about with actual content on the screen, along with a statement of what the INPUT source is selected to and what source device is providing that input to the 960.


I don't know if you have the user manual (I assume you do), but the documentation is clear, that this only involves 4:3. If you present a 4:3 image on a 16:9 screen, you can display it in "normal" mode (which presents the 4:3 in OAR in the 16:9 screen, so that black bars are placed on left and right) or "full" mode (which stretches the 4:3 image horizontally so as to fill the entire width of the 16:9 screen, thus no black bars). These two screen modes do NOTHING to the vertical presentation of a 4:3 image, which is presumed to already be occupying the entire height of the 16:9 screen.


But of course, if the broadcaster of the 4:3 channel program is sending out what was originally a 16:9 image and has opted to retain OAR for that 16:9 image, then it will be "letterboxed 4:3" which arrives with black bars on top and bottom (within the 4:3 area) in order to retain the 16:9 rectangular image shape within the available 4:3 OAR image space on the screen. And then if you impose that onto a 16:9 screen, adding in black bars on left and right, you now have the "postage stamp" appearance.


Again, the 960 has nothing to do with this... assuming there was a true image on the screen in your picture for us to be discussing. It's all up to the broadcaster of the 4:3 program. You can modify that using the screen mode control on the remote, but still it is not what your picture shows. But again... you have no input on your screen so it's hard to have a real discussion.


----------



## OldSchoolGamer12

Sadly, I don't have item 26 in 2170P-4. It only goes up to 25. I'll show you more pictures soon tomorrow perhaps. Thank you so much for your help so far.


----------



## OldSchoolGamer12

Okay, after sitting on my ass for God knows how long







I've finally taken pictures of Inputs 1, 2, 5 and 6. (The reason why 3, 4 and 7 aren't is because I don't use them and I watch/play HD stuff on my Sony Bravia LCD) Every pic you'll see is meant to be displayed in 4:3, but you'll see for some reason it's letterboxed to widescreen for some reason. The second image will show proof I have it displayed in normal mode (aka 4:3 mode)


Input 1: Super Nintendo (Use S-Video)

http://www.avsforum.com/content/type/61/id/359515/width/1000/height/1000 

http://www.avsforum.com/content/type/61/id/359517/width/1000/height/1000 


Input 2: Nintendo 64 (Use S-Video)

http://www.avsforum.com/content/type/61/id/359519/width/1000/height/1000 

http://www.avsforum.com/content/type/61/id/359520/width/1000/height/1000 


Input 5: Original Xbox and Wii (Use Component Video)

http://www.avsforum.com/content/type/61/id/359521/width/1000/height/1000 

http://www.avsforum.com/content/type/61/id/359522/width/1000/height/1000 


Input 6: PS2 (Use Component Video)

http://www.avsforum.com/content/type/61/id/359526/width/1000/height/1000 

http://www.avsforum.com/content/type/61/id/359527/width/1000/height/1000


----------



## LiquidSnake

If it wasn't doing this before you messed with the service menu, and it is doing this now after you fiddled, then you can be sure that is the reason it is messed up.


How do you fix it? Well what options did you change in your service menu?


If you did not write this down or snap photos of original settings, then you are very well likely screwed. Service menu options should never be changed before writing down or photographing *every single original setting*. The settings of the service menu for your CRT are unique to your CRT. Some other CRTs may have certain options the same, but certain other options will be vastly different and vary with every set made. And when you are messing with the SM to try and fix something, it is easy to flip one option to see if it helps. Before you know it you've done another one, because the first one showed seemingly no change, and then a third because you didn't see the result you wanted from the first two, and before you know it you've changed a dozen settings and you don't remember what they all were, or what the original setting is. The SM is very obscure with little documentation and few technical experts still around who have this information or remember it off the top of their heads (and you don't see a lot of them posting here either), so even the options that are common amongst every set are going to be tough to get information on. So if you were wise and documented all of your changes, go backwards through each change and change it back to the original. If you don't remember what you changed... well, good luck. You should in the very least write down or photograph every SM setting now before you go any further and bone it up even more.


----------



## OldSchoolGamer12

I'm going to look at the service menu manual now, set the values back based on the manual, and then write them down. Thank you guys so much.


----------



## DSperber

Well, very interesting pictures.


First, using S-video input (or composite) can only deliver 480i 4:3 images. I don't see how those images from your Nintendo players can possibly stretch to fill the entire horizontal width of the screen if your screen mode is "normal". This is a non-stretch, non-zoom setting, so it's beyond belief that it is not appearing in 4:3 form with black bars on left and right.


Now I'm not a gamer and I own zero gaming consoles, so I know nothing about setup or configuration options they might possess. But if there is a setting on your Nintendos that determines how to send out images, what do you have them set to. Are they supposed to be in 4:3? Do they only have non-HD outputs? In other words they cannot generate rectangular output, but only 4:3? Again, if that's true, then your 960 is doing something very odd by stretching a 4:3 image when it is set to "normal". Should not occur.


Instead of using the user menu to display things, if you push the DISPLAY button on the remote when something is on the screen from some input, you should also see onscreen information showing the input, zoom mode, input resolution (e.g. 480i), etc. You don't need to post pictures, just confirm that the 960 believes it's presenting "normal" output based on this onscreen DISPLAY. Again, "normal" should not be presenting a 480 4:3 image using up the entire horizontal width of the screen.



Second, using component video from your Xbox, Wii, and PS2, well now it's more complicated. Component video (INPUT6) can support all resolutions, both 480i 4:3 as well as HD 720p/1080i 16:9. So now it really is up to the configuration on the source devices what is being sent to the 960.


If these three boxes are also delivering 480i 4:3 over component video, then the presentation behaves as described on page 58 of the manual.


Again, if you use the DISPLAY button on the remote I'm curious to know (a) what resolution is coming out of the source devices, and (b) prove that it is in "normal" mode. As shown in my earlier post of pages 58+59 of the user manual, the presentation from component/HDMI input is primarily controlled by the source device setup/configuration and resolution of the source content delivered. After that, the screen mode button on the remote of the 960 can further influence things... but it depends on what the original source looked like, and the results are as shown in the manual. Or rather, they should be.


In any case, "normal" should not stretch anything.



What happens if you connect these players to a different TV? What do the various images look like on the screen?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OldSchoolGamer12*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8040#post_24253926
> 
> 
> I'm going to look at the service menu manual now, set the values back based on the manual, and then write them down. Thank you guys so much.


I just looked in my own spreadsheet (which records the user and service menus on my own 960), and noticed that in the 2170P-4 group there is an item named IDSW, but it's item 20, not item 26.


And it is described as "zoom mode". So this sounds like it might be relevant, although I don't have a detailed description of all the values.


What is the setting of IDSW on your 960 in item 20, when you are selected to your 480i inputs and when you are selected to INPUT6?


To properly use the service menu, you should be selected to the input you want to get the values for (or change), and then when you see the displayed service menu values they are for that input. I see that the 2170D-1 group has several settings relating to aspect ratio and zoom mode. I'm curious to know what those values display as when you are selected to one of your S-video inputs.


Here's my setup for your reference. But remember my settings pertain to my 960, not yours. However it is usable for your reference, and also you might copy it and then insert your own values... as a way of recording what your set looks like and as something to go back to if you decide you made a mistake and want to revert.

kd-34xbr960.zip 35k .zip file


----------



## OldSchoolGamer12

Gonna do that as soon as I get back from GameStop.


----------



## turkeylord

Slightly off-topic here with a 970... Is there still a market for these things used? Trying to decide if I want to attempt to sell or haul down the basement - neither one sounds like a lot of fun.










TIA


----------



## LiquidSnake




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8070#post_24253983
> 
> 
> using S-video input (or composite) can only deliver 480i 4:3 images.



This is picking a nit, but I've seen you post this multiple times now. The ratio of an image is entirely unrelated to either its broadcast type (RF channel, composite, S-video, component, HDMI, DVI, VGA, or anything else) and is also entirely unrelated to its resolution. It is true that "most televisions" conform certain resolutions to certain ratios. This is done because of broadcast standards, i.e. at a certain point in time everyone simply did things that way. But that doesn't mean that it can only be done this way, and this standard is indeed in flux. I'm increasingly seeing more and more cable channels in 480i delivering 16:9 ratios. These are particularly movie channels. I don't use an OTA right now, but I would not be surprised if anyone out there with OTA would be seeing any given channel in 16:9 at 480i. With HDTVs this old, and the need for various resolutions with them, the cheaper logic boards involved were often made to force anything above 480i (or above 480p) to widescreen, "just because" 720p and 1080i at no time were ever intended to be drawn at a 4:3 ratio.


Having said that, his 20 year old video games absolutely do not have resolution or ratio settings. They were not made with anamorphism in mind. They absolutely should be "normal TV," meaning 4:3 at that resolution. So it could only be something that he borked in the service menu that is forcing widescreen ratios on all of his inputs.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LiquidSnake*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8070#post_24254892
> 
> 
> This is picking a nit, but I've seen you post this multiple times now. The ratio of an image is entirely unrelated to either its broadcast type (RF channel, composite, S-video, component, HDMI, DVI, VGA, or anything else) and is also entirely unrelated to its resolution. It is true that "most televisions" conform certain resolutions to certain ratios. This is done because of broadcast standards, i.e. at a certain point in time everyone simply did things that way.


Well, the only way a now-digital broadcast could send a 16:9 image out in 480i resolution is using either component video or HDMI. In other words the delivery to the display device has to be digital, and the display device has to be able to understand one of the 18 (I think) different combinations of resolution and aspect ratio that are supported by the ATSC standard.


I believe it is impossible for an old analog composite or S-video cable to carry anything other than analog signals which were (and still are) only 480i 4:3... not because it is digital with those parameters, but because it is analog and that's how the analog electronics in old TV's worked.


So the discussion we're having regarding his odd seeming "vertical compression" while simultaneously "horizontal stretch", all while the 960 claims to be set at "normal"... well it might be something jacked in the service menu somewhere (perhaps in that IDSW setting which my old service manual claims was item 27 in that 2170P-4 group, whereas the actual firmware in my actual 960 shows IDSW as item 20 but still described as "zoom" so maybe that's the piece that has a wrong value set by the previous owner). But in particular we're talking about his use of S-video cable to deliver signal from his game player boxes to the 960. So that MUST be 480i 4:3, and there can't be anything else.


----------



## LiquidSnake




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8070#post_24254947
> 
> 
> Well, the only way a now-digital broadcast could send a 16:9 image out in 480i resolution is using either component video or HDMI. In other words the delivery to the display device has to be digital, and the display device has to be able to understand one of the 18 (I think) different combinations of resolution and aspect ratio that are supported by the ATSC standard.



Can I trouble you for a source on that?


> Quote:
> I believe it is impossible for an old analog composite or S-video cable to carry anything other than analog signals which were (and still are) only 480i 4:3... not because it is digital with those parameters, but because it is analog and that's how the analog electronics in old TV's worked.



All you are saying is that analogue televisions did not have a provision for anamorphism over this broadcast, which is absolutely true. That's a far cry from saying it's impossible to send 480i in analogue manner over RF channel, composite, or S-video. You can easily send a 16:9 signal over composite or S-video. RF channel too! In order for your television to view it as 16:9 you would need to futz with its sizing. Everybody's HDTVs have this already, even CRTs, with zoom, justify, and all kinds of ratio settings. The oldschool ones just have pots that you used when you were a kid to mangle the image, maybe enough to letterbox it, maybe not, but again, that doesn't mean it can't be done. It just means that the older televisions weren't made with it in mind, ergo lack the flexibility to position the broadcast as it's intended--and as it is sent.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LiquidSnake*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8070#post_24254980
> 
> 
> You can easily send a 16:9 signal over composite or S-video. RF channel too! In order for your television to view it as 16:9 you would need to futz with its sizing.


The signal was of a 4:3 image, which may have had a rectangular image inside of it (i.e. letterbox 4:3).


The fact that the display device has the ability (either digital today, or analog with pots in days of yore) to adjust its display of that 4:3 image to produce what would certainly appear to our eyes to be filling most or all of a 16:9 screen area, well that's just magic in the display device to distort what it receives for presentation on a screen of some dimensions.


But the source signal itself was 4:3 image in 480i resolution, no matter how it gets displayed. That's what was and still is the signal that gets sent out over analog RF coax, composite, and S-video cables from the source devices.


----------



## OldSchoolGamer12

Okay guys, I've found out that by stretching the vertical values it makes it better. Just stretch the vertical portion until the bottom bars disappear. This is the only way I could fix it, so far no distortion. God I love the XBR960, don't we all?


----------



## OldSchoolGamer12

Unless of course if anyone else has found a way to fix it this is the best I can do.


----------



## OldSchoolGamer12

HOLY CRAP I THINK I FIXED IT!










I turned JUMP (Item 7 in 2170D-3) from 1 to 0 and voilà, it's back to 4:3!







Thank you guys so much. If I could I would hug each and every single one of you in person (no ****)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j_xjBAd5G84


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8070#post_24255043
> 
> 
> But the source signal itself was 4:3 image in 480i resolution, no matter how it gets displayed. That's what was and still is the signal that gets sent out over analog RF coax, composite, and S-video cables from the source devices.



Then why would my DVD recorder manual show that it can "Record 16:9 size pictures" (DVD-R/RW only) when it only has composite and s-video inputs?


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8070#post_24256113
> 
> 
> Then why would my DVD recorder manual show that it can "Record 16:9 size pictures" (DVD-R/RW only) when it only has composite and s-video inputs?


More details needed, such as the brand/model of your equipment. And does it have only composite and S-video outputs as well, or does it also have component video and/or DVI and/or HDMI?


But I doubt it is really accepting 16:9 input. And I'm also guessing it cannot possibly present 16:9 output images were you to be using composite or S-video output. You'd have to be seeing 16:9 letterbox 4:3 at very best.


My own guess is that if you have component video outputs or better on the DVR recorder, that it could do its own internal zooming/stretching to present "zoomed letterboxed 4:3", which would blow up the original letterbox 4:3 to fill most/all of a 16:9 display connected with cables that support 16:9 transport.


I'd like to look at the user manual for your DVD recorder, to see what its connection diagrams show and also what it proposes for assorted images... both input and output.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OldSchoolGamer12*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8070#post_24255354
> 
> 
> Okay guys, I've found out that by stretching the vertical values it makes it better. Just stretch the vertical portion until the bottom bars disappear. This is the only way I could fix it, so far no distortion.


Pulling teeth here...


What exactly does "stretching the vertical values" mean?? Please describe WHICH service menu items you adjusted here, assuming that's what you're talking about?


And how did you know (or guess) to try those particular items? Did you refer to my own spreadsheet and compare those values (probably mostly 0 for state switches, but without knowing which ones you're talking about this is only speculation) to yours, and change yours to match?


Are you talking about the "geometry" settings which have a whole range of 0-63 values, and pick the ones that look they dealt with vertical size or position or centering? These are very much unique to each of our own 960's, but they certainly do affect image size and location. Same for the items dealing with horizontal.


Please give us useful information that others might benefit from in the future.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *OldSchoolGamer12*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8070#post_24255553
> 
> 
> HOLY CRAP I THINK I FIXED IT!
> 
> 
> I turned JUMP (Item 7 in 2170D-3) from 1 to 0 and voilà, it's back to 4:3!


Again, how did you know that JUMP would be helpful??


Trial and error? Comparison with my spreadsheet values? Some other printed reference document? Your own prior knowledge?


And what did you actually find in IDSW item 20 of 2170P-4? Did you change that as well?



Note that some of the values in the service menu are "input specific", while many others are "global" and apply to ALL inputs. So you need to run through all inputs that you use, and go through the service menu while selected on that input, in order to guarantee that you've got things set properly.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8070#post_24257952
> 
> 
> More details needed, such as the brand/model of your equipment. And does it have only composite and S-video outputs as well, or does it also have component video and/or DVI and/or HDMI?
> 
> 
> I'd like to look at the user manual for your DVD recorder, to see what its connection diagrams show and also what it proposes for assorted images... both input and output.



Toshiba D-KR10KU. I've had no luck finding a free online manual ("OWNER'S MANUAL") but fortunately the CL seller had the paper version. "Record 16:9 size pictures" is in the FEATURES table under "Recording Features" on page 9. Also, page 29 has a section "Setting Aspect Ratio for Video Mode Recording" which further clarifies my point with the subsection of selectable settings:


"Auto (default): It will be recorded with whichever the ratio that the program you started to record are broadcasted with.

4:3: Recorded in the aspect ratio of 4:3.

16:9: Recorded in the aspect ratio of 16:9."


Unfortunately there's none of the usual aspect diagrams







.


Video inputs: Composite, s-video, and DV.

Video outputs: Composite, s-video, component, and HDMI.

_______________


And then there's this general info but that of which is probably too vague to tell us much:


"Aspect ratio in composite signal


When used for connecting a video source to a video display that supports both 4:3 and 16:9 display formats, the PAL and NTSC television standards provide for signalling pulses that will automatically switch the display from one format to the other. This is called Wide Screen Signalling (WSS)."


from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Composite_video


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8070#post_24260122
> 
> 
> Toshiba D-KR10KU. I've had no luck finding a free online manual ("OWNER'S MANUAL")


Apparently this model is a Costco version.


The retail Toshiba product appears to be the D-R400KU. And the Toshiba support site provides the manual for it . This isn't a great site, but it does provide the manual.


Click on the "manuals and specs" tab, and then click on the link for the manual. A new second window (not tab) will be launched in which the PDF manual will be presented. It's a very unfriendly PDF reader within HTML, apparently. Anyway, there's what looks like a control bar across the top of the PDF document (just below the HTML Toshiba titling), and on the right side of that control bar is an icon to provide "download". If you click on that icon, you can then designate where you'd like the PDF saved.


I've done that and it looks like the page numbers are the same as you mention (for page 9 and page 29), so I'm guessing the R400 really is the same device as your KR10.



> Quote:
> "Record 16:9 size pictures" is in the FEATURES table under "Recording Features" on page 9. Also, page 29 has a section "Setting Aspect Ratio for Video Mode Recording" which further clarifies my point with the subsection of selectable settings:
> 
> 
> "Auto (default): It will be recorded with whichever the ratio that the program you started to record are broadcasted with.
> 
> 4:3: Recorded in the aspect ratio of 4:3.
> 
> 16:9: Recorded in the aspect ratio of 16:9."


Interesting. But I'm still suspecting this is really all just "manually possible by forced configuration settings", rather than digitally automatic. Perhaps using the DV (digital video) input (say from a camcorder) might the recording automatically be set to 16:9. But via composite or S-video input... I still think not. You'd have to manually change this setting to "16:9".


For example, here's a comment (asking for help) on the use of this device by someone on a Toshiba users forum who's trying to record the output of a Tivo on the DVD recorder.

I'm recording on TiVo at 720p, and want to record to the D-KR10KU. There is no component input so I've connected using composite output from the TiVo box. There's no s-video output on the TiVo so I have to use regular video input. When I try to record, I can't escape the video being shrunk horizontally - I'm seeing a 4:3 picture, but with sidebars which compress the image. Any ideas?


I suspect that what's needed here (to help the poster) would be to manually set "16:9" as the value of "setting aspect ratio for video mode recording", rather than leaving it at "auto". But in my opinion all that would be happening is that the R400 would "zoom" the very likely "letterbox 4:3" that is arriving from the Tivo over composite, blowing it up to appear as 16:9. But it's not that the Tivo delivered 16:9 over composite (and in fact the poster's complaint is that it did not). It delivered "letterbox 4:3" over composite. Only manually forcing the recorder to record this as 16:9 is causing the actual recording to be 16:9 to a DVD, for eventual 16:9 playback to a 16:9 TV via component or HDMI.


So just because this recording device can be forced to record a 16:9 image doesn't mean that's what is arriving over its composite or S-video input. In fact I still contend it is simply always 4:3, or possibly "letterbox 4:3" which would lend itself to being blown up into 16:9 via that manual setting.



> Quote:
> And then there's this general info but that of which is probably too vague to tell us much:
> 
> 
> "Aspect ratio in composite signal
> 
> 
> When used for connecting a video source to a video display that supports both 4:3 and 16:9 display formats, the PAL and NTSC television standards provide for signalling pulses that will automatically switch the display from one format to the other. This is called Wide Screen Signalling (WSS)."
> 
> 
> from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Composite_video


Well, I certainly was completely unaware of this fact. I suppose it's to allow a DVD player to feed a 16:9 image to a TV using a composite cable and have it display as 16:9. It would still be 480i, but apparently it is possible to send a 16:9 image to a TV over composite. Never knew that, and of course I would never think to do that. This sounds like 20 year old analog technology. But you'd still have to have a source device that was WSS-capable, such as a DVD player, feeding a 16:9 TV via composite. Bizarre.



This is really all out of my realm of firsthand knowledge. I'm not a gamer, and don't have any gaming consoles. I would never have a need to connect these source devices to my 960 in any way at all.


I never use composite or S-video any more, and never sent 16:9 images from a true DVD player to my 960 over anything but component video or HDMI. Today I really only watch BluRay discs, with the occasional DVD showing up from Netflix.


And of course today I only use HDMI to my 960 (actually to my Panny 65VT50 100% of the time), from true HD source devices. In fact I don't even tune to SD 4:3 480i channels!


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8070#post_24260502
> 
> 
> Apparently this model is a Costco version.
> 
> 
> The retail Toshiba product appears to be the D-R400KU. And the Toshiba support site provides the manual for it . This isn't a great site, but it does provide the manual.



Excellent, thanks for the info! I suspected it was something akin to the modern R430 version based on the Costco references but the Toshiba support site resulted in no info (I suspect uniquely model-numbered for Costco). Goofy.


Hard to say with that Toshiba users forum poster due to lack of detailed info. Unknown what he set the Tivo output aspect to. Also unknown what type of disk and what video format he formatted the disk to, as well as what Toshiba aspect ratios he selected for recording and playback.


I need to experiment using my HD tuner's composite and/or s-video outputs, not that this tuner is guaranteed to satisfy my experiment. I currently feed the DVDR with a converter box (Channel Master CM-7000) via s-video. I set the DVDR to 4:3 since of course the CM only puts out 4:3 even though it's set to 16:9 mode (16:9 squeezed into a 4:3 frame); I let my Panny CRT (kind of an older version of a 960) 'unsqueeze' it to 16:9 with its FULL mode. The whole thing still works the same if I set the Toshiba to record 16:9 but my thought is I'm wasting data recording dead space (16:9 minus 4:3). If I had an HD tuner to spare, assuming it could actually output 16:9 via s-video, I suspect I'd achieve better PQ.


I wish my Panny CRT had DVI or HDMI as the HD tuner has DVI. So component it is, still looks great. I infrequently watch movies from SD/480i stations because the sub-channels are for the most part the only ones that show movies on OTA anymore (except weekends). As far as aspect ratio I've seen all kinds, was shocked the other day when one came in full 16:9. The beauty of the CRT is I can set the tuner to 480i and they look SO much better than any upconversion crud. Of course these sub-channels are starved for bandwidth as the main-channels get all the glory (as they should).


----------



## OldSchoolGamer12

Trial and error. I found the IDSW and just messed around with it but realized that wasn't the problem, but then once I used Jump, it fixed it.


----------



## OldSchoolGamer12

Also yeah I used the values that meant for vertical geometry, but now I fixed it back since I found out JUMP was the problem. Thanks for your help.


----------



## turkeylord




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *turkeylord*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8070#post_24254677
> 
> 
> Slightly off-topic here with a 970... Is there still a market for these things used? Trying to decide if I want to attempt to sell or haul down the basement - neither one sounds like a lot of fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TIA


Bump, anyone?


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *turkeylord*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8070#post_24254677
> 
> 
> Slightly off-topic here with a 970... Is there still a market for these things used? Trying to decide if I want to attempt to sell or haul down the basement - neither one sounds like a lot of fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TIA



Maybe $50 - $200 depending on condition, original remote, stand (bonus!), and willingness to help load the beast. Hint: Gamers love 'em. Let 'em know it has a built-in DTV tuner, HDMI, and last Sony widescreen CRT HDTV made. Those may have some sort of cable card stuff too. I suspect the sound is good (vs. flat panels), i.e. no silly sound bar required. Any other special features I may have missed too.


There's also a classified section for this stuff on AVS:

http://www.avsforum.com/f/256/direct-view-crt 


but of course Craigslist will have much higher exposure. Have to repost often on CL because stuff gets buried under new ads fast.


----------



## turkeylord




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8070#post_24264246
> 
> 
> Maybe $50 - $200 depending on condition, original remote, stand (bonus!), and willingness to help load the beast. Hint: Gamers love 'em. Let 'em know it has a built-in DTV tuner, HDMI, and last Sony widescreen CRT HDTV made. Those may have some sort of cable card stuff too. I suspect the sound is good (vs. flat panels), i.e. no silly sound bar required. Any other special features I may have missed too.
> 
> 
> There's also a classified section for this stuff on AVS:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/f/256/direct-view-crt
> 
> 
> but of course Craigslist will have much higher exposure. Have to repost often on CL because stuff gets buried under new ads fast.


Cool, good to know. Thanks.


----------



## dougquail


Hi all.  I'm strongly considering getting a 34xbr960 on craigslist.  I am a die-hard CRT guy and these things are being given away, so it's time I upgraded to the best.  I have one question though:  can I run chromecast through the stock HDMI port on the 960, or will I need an adapter?  I apologize if this topic has already come up.  I searched for an answer and couldn't find anything.


----------



## Joseph Dubin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Floydage*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8070#post_24260122
> 
> 
> Toshiba D-KR10KU. I've had no luck finding a free online manual ("OWNER'S MANUAL") but fortunately the CL seller had the paper version. "Record 16:9 size pictures" is in the FEATURES table under "Recording Features" on page 9. Also, page 29 has a section "Setting Aspect Ratio for Video Mode Recording" which further clarifies my point with the subsection of selectable settings:
> 
> 
> "Auto (default): It will be recorded with whichever the ratio that the program you started to record are broadcasted with.
> 
> 4:3: Recorded in the aspect ratio of 4:3.
> 
> 16:9: Recorded in the aspect ratio of 16:9."
> 
> 
> Unfortunately there's none of the usual aspect diagrams
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> Video inputs: Composite, s-video, and DV.
> 
> Video outputs: Composite, s-video, component, and HDMI.
> 
> _______________
> 
> 
> And then there's this general info but that of which is probably too vague to tell us much:
> 
> 
> "Aspect ratio in composite signal
> 
> 
> When used for connecting a video source to a video display that supports both 4:3 and 16:9 display formats, the PAL and NTSC television standards provide for signalling pulses that will automatically switch the display from one format to the other. This is called Wide Screen Signalling (WSS)."
> 
> 
> from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Composite_video



I had a Toshiba DVD Recorder which had the same type of information appear in the instruction manual and could not get it to record in 16x9 (the 960 would never display it as squished or anything). When called up Toshiba, the CR had no idea what the meant, either. What happened within a week with the Toshiba was that the copy protection kicked in on everything, including using RF-cable and recording from the weather channel.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Dubin*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8070#post_24343100
> 
> 
> I had a Toshiba DVD Recorder which had the same type of information appear in the instruction manual and could not get it to record in 16x9 (the 960 would never display it as squished or anything). When called up Toshiba, the CR had no idea what the meant, either. What happened within a week with the Toshiba was that the copy protection kicked in on everything, including using RF-cable and recording from the weather channel.



I suspect the source signal has to be WSS-capable and like DSperber thought maybe that would come from something like a DVD player (with the appropriate disk). Did you have a 16:9 signal over s-video or composite? To monitor it properly the TV has to be set to normal mode and I suspect the DVDR set to output 16:9.


I've never had a copy-protection problem but the DVDR source is a converter box via s-video (Channel Master CM-7000). Does your DVDR have a built-in ATSC tuner?


----------



## somelogin

Does anyone have idea for stands for this? I am strongly considering buying a used tv of this model because I've had so many issues with all current tvs. I have to pioneer kuro elites and both have some issue with black level (unless my eyes are misleading me) and almost ALL current tech tvs hurt my head and CRTs never did. So this would be a cheap way to have a backup tv that doesn't hurt my head and has great black levels. But moving it is the main concern and where in the world I can put it.


Really the only negative about the picture I have read is it has overscan.


----------



## somelogin

Blah, I forgot about geometry issues and no 1080p, but still may get it. Moving it and finding somewhere to put it are the main issues.


----------



## Floydage

I see used stands on craigslist, sometimes in the free section but beware weight requirements (i.e. later models only needed to support flat panels). I've seen Sony OEM stands but to some the stand is worth more than the TV since it can be used for a flat panel and isn't a bear to move. These TV's weigh nearly 200 lbs. The Sony OEM stands have a perfect match/contour to these TV's (and I suspect the older and newer (970) version of this model TV).


----------



## somelogin

yeah, I know about the stands, but they're way too short. I don't want to have to look down to see the tv. And all stands I see online from stores do seem to have low weight requirements. It's basically seeming like I can't get this tv even though I kept specifically looking for it to be sold near me because I wanted to try it.


----------



## somelogin

If anyone does know of a stand which can still be bought, let me know. Preferably one that causes the tv to be a couple feet off the ground though. Otherwise I have to pass this up when I realty wanted to try the tv.


----------



## somelogin

I wonder if companies have to pay out damages if they say their stands hold x pounds and then they break. Walmart has one for only $59 which claims to support 240 pounds. lol


----------



## somelogin

Btw, people on here, said CRTs have very bad contrast ratios. Why is that? If they really have great blacks, as people say, then how could the bright side of it be bad enough to have it end up with low ratios? I don't recall thinking a CRT was dull in the past. What do people like so much about the tv, other than black level alone and no input lag?


----------



## Floydage

BTW there's a pic of the 960 on the optional matching stand in one of the lower thumbs:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-m15ZTo2tVs1/p_158KD34XBR/Sony-KD-34XBR960.html 


Dangerous to put one of these heavy beasts on a tall stand. And I suspect stand manufacturers put out a legal disclaimer with their stands.


Who said that? (bad contrast ratios). I thought it was the other way around.


Color, motion handling, and Super Fine Pitch tube (SFP "...refers to Sony's line of Trinitrons with high horizontal resolution and very fine aperture grille stripe pitch." - Wiki)


----------



## JA Fant

I use a Bell'O 3 -glassed shelf stand that was purchased same day as my 960N almost 9 years ago.


----------



## Floydage

I use one of those dark grey thick particle board stands, I think Hitachi. Label on it states good for a 36" TV which I'm assuming was a 4:3 CRT, so I think good enough (no wheels helps increase capacity limit). Not tall either but to be honest it seems about right for living room furniture and this size TV. Can't complain as I got both the stand and TV free from my friend's warehouse where he works.


----------



## somelogin

Well, I've seen several stands for sale which claim they can hold 200 and even 240 pounds. And at least one specifically mentioned CRTs, although that was the one closer to $200, and the walmart one is only $59. I hate to keep paying more and more for a 34 inch tv made a decade ago, but I did like the 30HS420 and so very tempting to get tot ry one better than that one was.


----------



## somelogin

Keep in mind I have two pioneer elite 111s (but both with seemingly bad black levels for some reason) and have tried a sony xbr929, panny st30 and st60, etc... so I am deciding if this tv is going to impress me or not, compared to those high end displays, not just comparing based on low cost. I was just telling someone I was thinking of buying this and she thinks it won't have a good picture and said the difference between her old CRT and an LED were night and day. But see her CRT was not HD. She describes CRT as blurry and not a good picture. This is going to cost several hundred if I get it because of the stand situation.... And I have no good place to PUT the tv in this small place I am at. But if it's good enough and big enough at only 34 inches for me to love it I would not care where I have to put it.


----------



## somelogin

Also, did Sony ever make a 40 inch widescreen XBR CRT? I see they made a 40 inch xbr800 4:3.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *somelogin*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8100#post_24378631
> 
> 
> Also, did Sony ever make a 40 inch widescreen XBR CRT? I see they made a 40 inch xbr800 4:3.


No.


Largest 16:9 CRT screen made by Sony was the 34XBR family. And the 960 was true flatscreen 16:9 CRT.


I believe the largest 16:9 CRT screen made was the 38" from RCA (F38310), but it was curved as the only way it could be made strong enough to avoid imploding from outside air pressure and the vacuum inside the tube.


----------



## LiquidSnake




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *somelogin*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8100#post_24378631
> 
> 
> Also, did Sony ever make a 40 inch widescreen XBR CRT? I see they made a 40 inch xbr800 4:3.



As DSperber mentioned, 16:9 Sony tubes were never made larger than 34". That's the bad news. The good news is that if you have one of the 40" XBR800, then you have a screen that is almost the same exact height as a 50" widescreen, and when used with 16:9 ratios it will provide an image that is 37" corner to corner, larger than the largest 16:9 CRT that was made.


There are of course downsides to this. You have to make the choice to switch between a 4:3 or 16:9 image (maybe based on the material you're viewing). And the tube is "only" a "HiScan," not the "Super Fine Pitch" tube type that has the highest, physically resolvable resolution possible. And you have to deal with a 300 pound television, one that two strong men can actually lift alone, but that is somewhat awkward to move if you don't know where to hold it when lifting. It can be tough just to convince someone who is strong enough to help you lift it for this reason. But still, a KV40-XBR800 (or a KV40-XBR700) is not at all a bad CRT to own and use in the modern age.


----------



## Floydage

I couldn't have said it better myself 'Snake. Here is a good reference:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FD_Trinitron/WEGA 


Note that if you like 4:3 material a 36" is a nice compromise with 33" in 16:9 mode but weight closer to a 960; there's a lone SFP 4:3 at the top of the chart (KV-36XS955).


HDMI or DVI and ATSC tuners are other features to consider with the various models.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DSperber*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8100#post_24378668
> 
> 
> I believe the largest 16:9 CRT screen made was the 38" from RCA (F38310), but it was curved as the only way it could be made strong enough to avoid imploding from outside air pressure and the vacuum inside the tube.



Also the German Loewe 38" models which I've read on AVS used the same picture tube. I've seen a few of these on the cheap on craigslist here, one a really good condition one the lady dropped to $25 from $50 just to get the beast moved out.


----------



## somelogin

Does anyone think I will be impressed by something with this model, even after using newer top models of most other types (CCFL LCD, LED, plasma)? I am assuming the black level will be better than my elites, especially since something is wrong with them, so I would think that is one big thing I would notice, but going all the way from 50 inches down to 34 is a big leap. I had thought well spending $200-$300 to get this and some stand would at least be good to have it as a backup tv because all tvs of current tech hurt my head for some odd reason and also the bigger the size the more it happens, so I figured maybe it's worth it to have this smaller one as a backup. But I don't want to get it and then never use it and this 200 pound tv be here with me unable to do anything with. Like I said, I did own the 30HS420, so I know "somewhat" what it will be like, but how much better, I don't know.


----------



## DSperber




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *somelogin*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8100#post_24381596
> 
> 
> Does anyone think I will be impressed by something with this model, even after using newer top models of most other types (CCFL LCD, LED, plasma)? I am assuming the black level will be better than my elites, especially since something is wrong with them, so I would think that is one big thing I would notice, but going all the way from 50 inches down to 34 is a big leap. I had thought well spending $200-$300 to get this and some stand would at least be good to have it as a backup tv because all tvs of current tech hurt my head for some odd reason and also the bigger the size the more it happens, so I figured maybe it's worth it to have this smaller one as a backup. But I don't want to get it and then never use it and this 200 pound tv be here with me unable to do anything with. Like I said, I did own the 30HS420, so I know "somewhat" what it will be like, but how much better, I don't know.


I had previously thought my 34XBR960 was "reference" (definitely state of the art back in 2003 or so). Absolutely superior to my previous Sampo SME-34WHD5 (which had just died), which was itself also "reference" back in 2002 or so. Both of these were genuinely stunning to look at in HD (especially coming directly from 4:3 480i SD).


But to be honest, they are still analog CRT devices at their heart. Very much subject to setup and tweaking just for geometry/overscan and curvature/bowing issues (unique but common for 16x9 CRT tubes, especially true flatscreens), and definitely should receive a "calibration" treatment by a professional to deal as best as possible with the available service menu tweaks relating to color/hue as well as user menu tweaks relating to brightness/contrast and sharpness.


And even then, each rectangular shaped analog flatscreen CRT tube had its own unique "convergence" and "color purity" issues, potentially requiring a "magnet job" by a trained Sony-qualified technician as the only way to solve the unique problems of that unique picture tube. Some "horizontal" defects can be "cured" through service menu adjustments, but other "vertical" defects cannot.


So if you buy a used 960 (and one which is by now at least 10 years old and probably worse for the wear and tear), you really don't have any guarantee at all of what it is that you will be getting for your money, no matter how little it might cost.


As readers of this thread know, I long touted my 960 as "fantastic". Turns out color-wise I didn't really have it adjusted correctly at all, and it was VERY VERY BLUE (because I thought I liked the look of "cool" temperature). It wasn't until I had a true pro calibration by D-Nice last year that I finally saw what "correct color" looked like, and fell in love. And what I'd previously been looking at for the past 9 years was "embarrassing" by comparison.


But... in all honesty the picture from even a properly calibrated 960 vintage circa 2004 simply CANNOT COMPARE to the picture from a much larger modern technology high-end plasma (like my Panny 65VT50 acquired about 14 months ago and also pro-calibrated by D-Nice, so that color on my two calibrated sets IS NOW TRULY IDENTICAL). There is simply a much more dramatic image from a screen that's 4-times the size of the 960, producing much more "pop", brightness, contrast, sharpness, uniformity, linearity, purity, etc. I now NEVER watch my 960. There simply is nothing like the "3D-like realism and transparency" (words I used to use for my 960, but which really are now appropriate even more for my 65VT50) coming from the stunning HDTV and BluRay images coming out of the VT50. Couple that with running 720p/1080i HDTV source through the external HDMI input of my Oppo BDP-103 player (which processes and upconverts to 1080p for delivery to the VT50) and the resulting 1080p image onscreen is just amazing. Remember, the 960 does not accept 1080p, and this makes a big difference.


Sure, is it really fair to compare these two sets? What if you didn't want or couldn't house a set as large as 65", but were simply looking for a much smaller set in the 32"-37" size range for a secondary TV location? Should you consider the 200lb. CRT 960? You're going to need a pretty sturdy cabinet or A/V equipment credenza or TV table or something, to just hold the beast. Might you not be better off in the long run (not to mention providing more viewing enjoyment) to consider a modern 1080p-capable alternative? Even try to talk yourself (or partner/spouse) into going with a much larger screen than you thought you were wanting... say 42" or 50" or 55"?? Honestly, the larger the screen (but still appropriately sized for your viewing distance), the MUCH LARGER will be your viewing enjoyment, especially if you go with a high-end flatscreen and then have it pro-calibrated.


I'm not a gamer, and don't watch DVD's (not normally, anyway). I only watch 720p/1080i HDTV and BluRays. Going with my 65VT50 last year and then getting it (and my 960, even though I knew I'd probably never watch it again) calibrated by D-Nice is the best thing I've ever done. While there might be some advantage to using a 960 if you watch old 480i (which the 960 does VERY WELL), for modern HD/BluRay you really should go with a plasma (in my opinion) if you want stunning images with CRT-like blacks and and brilliant whites/colors along with 180-degree viewing angles (i.e. that have none of the "off-axis" family room viewing angle considerations so obvious with LCD/LED panels, although these have definitely improved).


And get a Panny plasma while you still can find them and buy them. They're no longer being made.


----------



## somelogin

Like I said, a lot of unique complications come into play with me, though. For whatever reason ALL plasmas hurt my head. I assumed due to flicker. I have two pioneer elite 111fd sets I bought used and both have major black level issues, unless my eyes are somehow making me see something incorrectly. But anyway so those tvs hurt my head also, but Panasonic plasmas hurt it far worse than any other tv I've tried. And I've tried Samsung plasma, sony CCFL LCD, sony xbr led sets, multiple panny plasmas, multiple kuroelites, etc.... and nothing stops hurting my head, but plasmas are far worse.


Btw, I thought you measure tv size diagonally even for 4:3 sets, but that must not be true because I was at someone's house today who is using a 1999 CRT and it measured almost 38 inches diagonally and I know Sony didn't make a 38 inch set 15 years ago. You must measure 4:3 ones top to bottom or something.


----------



## somelogin

Says online you do also measure CRTs diagonally, so I guess this person whose tv I saw has a 38 inch one.... I didn't remember Sony maiking one that size in 1999. And the person thought it was only 24 inches.


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *somelogin*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8100#post_24381596
> 
> 
> Like I said, I did own the 30HS420, so I know "somewhat" what it will be like, but how much better, I don't know.



I think it will look similar as you'd be increasing to 34" but with the SFP higher vertical resolution.


Like DSperber replied, you'd have some unique issues such as geometry with a CRT but it sounds like you should be all familiar with these. Sounds like you've had every kind of TV so...


With your visual condition it doesn't sound like you have any choice. And with a small room you don't want too big a TV anyway unless you enjoy actually seeing the pixels. But really the first thing I'll suggest is that you see a vision specialist, you may have a condition that can be corrected.


In general, all TV's are measured diagonally, even described this way in many ads.


----------



## somelogin

I have one vision issue which can be corrected with surgery, but my main vision issues can't be corrected. However, the ones which can't be corrected I have had all my life and these head issues only started in the past few years, so whether or not they are related to something which I can control, I don't know. Doctors say they've never heard of this type of thing. For instance, a lot of plasmas feel like they are SQUEEZING my head to where I feel like my brains are going to explode. lol The pioneer elites are much better on my head, for some reason, but still bother it quite a bit, just not the squeezing sensation.


But when I looked at this other person's 4:3 CRT, honestly I think it was bothering my head right off too. I don't think the HS420 ever did, so I don't know if this was due to this other one being too big, a 38 4:3 compared with my old 30 16:9, or if whatever head issues I have are just happening on most any tv. I know CRTs can have bad flicker too, but I never noticed any issues with that 30 inch one.


So who knows. Maybe I should have kept the Epson projector I tried. That didn't give me any head problem, but I was annoyed by the blacks not being dark enough and it was too hard to position the projector anywhere ideal.


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## Floydage

Of course being too close to a CRT can cause problems, and that closeness will be somewhat proportional to screen size.

I don't know if resolution would make a difference but maybe the type of scan (480p vs. 480i&1080i).


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## somelogin

I know on the 30 inch, watching mostly 1080i, I never recall having it give me headaches and I was literally one foot from it.


----------



## Floydage

Well enjoy the x-rays, that's way too close for a CRT. I sometimes get too close to my CRT PC monitor doing some aggressive typing and I pay for it later with some kind of eyestrain headache.


----------



## First XBR

Can someone shoot me some picture settings that are ideal for a dark den. I have it set to pro, monitor & have it set to warm. I bought this tv a couple of months ago. I can't afford the new plasma's, so this is what I have, I'm enjoying it very much.


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## 9604me


  Just recently started looking for a 960N...I have a 970 that I bought new back when they(960's,970's) were last sold.  Of course I wanted the 960, but none were available at the time, all crt's were disappearing from stores, so i settled for the 970....I've used it pretty much EVERY day for prolly ~9 yrs now.  I love it, and am afraid of it dying....More so since I got into the service menu and started ignorantly messing around...BUT I STILL WANT A 960 DAMMIT!  Of course, can't find any local.  Found one one CL that was like a five hour drive...Guy had it(960N in properly working order) in the for sale section for $40.  I contacted him, then the #%[email protected] refuses to sell it to me and says he decided to have E-cycling pick it up.  Just recently found one much closer(~3hr drive one way) but it is not the "N" model.

  Questions for the experts...

  #1:  Is there ANY difference between the N and non models besides the film on the screen on the nons?

  #2  Do Comcrap or other cable companies still offer cable card service?  I'd love to use this as a tv, and not a "monitor" like you have to with a settop box.

  #3  If I ever get in the presence of one for sale, what do I easily check to ~determine functional condition?  Make sure still a good pic at reasonable brightness/picture settings?  (Like make sure brightness doesn't have to be jacked up for a reasonable picture, etc.)

 

  Any help is appreciated, I came across this site/thread whilst researching my renewing interest in the ...960.


----------



## First XBR

I live in the 92505 area & there is always a couple of them for sale. When I move to Houston in a couple of months, I plan on settling in then find some way of hauling it out there. Good luck finding one, let me know if I can help.


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## LiquidSnake

#1. There is NO difference between the N and non-N models other than the anti-glare film. From what I have read, you are probably better off with a non-N. A lot of people wind up removing the film from their N models.

#2. All the cable companies use cable cards. They are provided at a much lower fee than the cable boxes. However, you will not be able to do VOD and some other niceties that you can with a cable box (or even a TiVo or such.)

#3. The worst thing that can happen with a tube is the tube itself being shot. There's not really a great way to test for that, either. If you can determine a number of hours used that helps a great deal, but this kind of information isn't always available even in service menus, as different televisions have different firmware. A lot of CRTs don't track it at all. Most every other factor is fixable, but different ones can be long-shots for you depending on your skill or ability to find a technician. Just view it for a bit, inspect its condition, note how thick the dust layers are (lick your finger and run it along the back, see what level of furry you pull back), and just go by your gut I spose. Almost anything used this old is a crapshoot.


----------



## Floydage

Most of the ones I've seen on Craigslist in my area have been non-N models. I believe the Ns were later so it could be the flat panel and other competition ate into N sales.


----------



## BaronKatz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LiquidSnake*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8100#post_24499016
> 
> 
> #1. There is NO difference between the N and non-N models other than the anti-glare film..



I have a Non-N model and it has some sort of anti-glare film on it. It has almost a purple hue when the TV is off and you get light on it. Also I heard that the early Non-N's were made in the USA and for the N's they shifted production to Mexico. Is this true or were they always made in Mexico?


I recently acquired my TV and I have a few issues if anyone can help me figure this out:


When I play Blu-Rays (through component or HDMI) the image looks crisp, sharp, and with decent color and contrast (although not nearly as good color/contrast vividness as my Loewe Aconda). However, when I watch Comcast through either Component or HDMI it looks a bit washed out and a bit pixelated for the HD channels and the SD channels are super pixelated. It's the same story with Netflix from my set top box, it looks so pixelated and washed out as well.


I've tried all these through the same input, so the input settings shouldn't have changed (IE all through the same Component or same HDMI input) and with various settings. The best was the Pro Setting since it removes the edge sharpening and some other things that make it look more pixelated and grainy. The Vivid just made it looks REALLY grainy and pixelated, although it has decent brightness where the Pro is just way too dark... I haven't looked into the service menu and don't know if maybe there are settings that need to be turned on or off? Or what needs to be done.


Anyone else had this problem when watching anything but Bluray discs on their XBR960s?


----------



## LiquidSnake

As floyd mentioned in another thread, it looks like the N-models are the ones without the film, sorry for my gaff. Still, a lot of folks who have the film tend to remove it. It can get dingy with time, use, perhaps in a smoker's home, etc. it starts to get dirty and crappy looking. I also see a great deal of tell about how the film helps give a proper colour image so it looks "wrong" somehow with it off, but I doubt this is anything like a real issue. Certainly non-fixable as there is nothing to honestly distinguish the filmless models from the film-covered ones, just tweak your settings and you're good.


If I were you I would look long and hard at your source. It sounds like this is where your issue is. You say your BluRays look crisp because they are "HD," but everything else "HD and SD" looks pixelated. Well, are you certain the resolution your cable box is set at? Make absolutely sure that your cable box is set to 1080i or 720p and not 480p. (Or 480i!) Some cable boxes up the res on SD channels, make sure that this is turned on for your cable box and it should improve the look of the SD channels... a bit, it won't work miracles but it shouldn't gouge your eyes out with pixelation. Try other devices that you know are set to 720p or 1080i and compare. Got an antenna handy? Does the 960 have an ATSC tuner?


----------



## BaronKatz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LiquidSnake*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8100#post_24527788
> 
> 
> As floyd mentioned in another thread, it looks like the N-models are the ones without the film, sorry for my gaff. Still, a lot of folks who have the film tend to remove it. It can get dingy with time, use, perhaps in a smoker's home, etc. it starts to get dirty and crappy looking. I also see a great deal of tell about how the film helps give a proper colour image so it looks "wrong" somehow with it off, but I doubt this is anything like a real issue. Certainly non-fixable as there is nothing to honestly distinguish the filmless models from the film-covered ones, just tweak your settings and you're good.
> 
> 
> If I were you I would look long and hard at your source. It sounds like this is where your issue is. You say your BluRays look crisp because they are "HD," but everything else "HD and SD" looks pixelated. Well, are you certain the resolution your cable box is set at? Make absolutely sure that your cable box is set to 1080i or 720p and not 480p. (Or 480i!) Some cable boxes up the res on SD channels, make sure that this is turned on for your cable box and it should improve the look of the SD channels... a bit, it won't work miracles but it shouldn't gouge your eyes out with pixelation. Try other devices that you know are set to 720p or 1080i and compare. Got an antenna handy? Does the 960 have an ATSC tuner?



After playing the Bluray, the TV shows up fine now on the HD channels. No more pixelization. It's almost as if it was dowconverting to SD before. It's still quite washed out compared to the Bluray, but maybe this is something I can fix in the service menu, or perhaps since I can't afford an ISF calibration - through one of those DVD's where I set the colors up... The NTSC standard setting is horrible, it makes anything white look cream colored, you cannot get a white color at all in Warm (NTSC Standard), it seems like Pro is the only decent setting...


And when playing SD channels it still pixelates a little, when playing Netflix, it really pixelates badly unless it's Full HD, which unfortunately I never get from my Set-Top box for Netflix. They only do Full HD on certain Blu-ray players and set-top boxes and with certain broadband providers (Comcast not being one of them for some reason) and they call it Super HD. Otherwise everything is 480 or 720... It wasn't as pixelated on the Loewe Aconda but the upconversion and filters on it were much better. Besides the build and looks, what sets B&O and Loewe apart are the video processors (since they essentially use other companies tubes or panels yet make the picture look completely different). These processors, electronics, and engineering, is about half the price of the TV. The Beovision Avant Video processor units is what made them look almost 3D and cost half the price of the TV from what I've seen...


----------



## LiquidSnake

I'm confused, why would the TV play HD television channels fine now, after playing a BluRay? What changed? Rather, what did you do differently?


----------



## BaronKatz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LiquidSnake*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8100#post_24531780
> 
> 
> I'm confused, why would the TV play HD television channels fine now, after playing a BluRay? What changed? Rather, what did you do differently?



I don't know, I switched between the inputs. Maybe it was a source issue. Maybe it was just the vivid mode vs. the pro mode. I really wnat to get this TV callibrated so it can show its full potential. I know it won't have the color rendition or depth of the Loewe, but if I can get it close enough, I would be fairly happy until I get another Aconda or Articos or something







I'm starting to enjoy the XBR960!


----------



## Slinky11

Just wanted to say... the great XBR960 has survived yet another move! and did not take any causalities, human or otherwise


----------



## Floydage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Slinky11*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8130#post_24574058
> 
> 
> Just wanted to say... the great XBR960 has survived yet another move! and did not take any causalities, human or otherwise



Abdominal hernias may take a little while to become evident.


----------



## JA Fant

Laughing...


----------



## IFrederickI

So I love my TV but it stop working last night. It does 20 continuous blinks and never turns on. I guess the IK video path is defective. Can this be fixed and if so how? I have a second 960 that has a different issue I could use for parts. Any thoughts?


----------



## WignersFriend




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *9604me*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8100_50#post_24492123
> 
> 
> Just recently started looking for a 960N...I have a 970 that I bought new back when they(960's,970's) were last sold.  Of course I wanted the 960, but none were available at the time, all crt's were disappearing from stores, so i settled for the 970....I've used it pretty much EVERY day for prolly ~9 yrs now.  I love it, and am afraid of it dying....More so since I got into the service menu and started ignorantly messing around...BUT I STILL WANT A 960 DAMMIT!  Of course, can't find any local.  Found one one CL that was like a five hour drive...Guy had it(960N in properly working order) in the for sale section for $40.  I contacted him, then the #%[email protected] refuses to sell it to me and says he decided to have E-cycling pick it up.  Just recently found one much closer(~3hr drive one way) but it is not the "N" model.
> 
> Questions for the experts...
> 
> #1:  Is there ANY difference between the N and non models besides the film on the screen on the nons?
> 
> #2  Do Comcrap or other cable companies still offer cable card service?  I'd love to use this as a tv, and not a "monitor" like you have to with a settop box.
> 
> #3  If I ever get in the presence of one for sale, what do I easily check to ~determine functional condition?  Make sure still a good pic at reasonable brightness/picture settings?  (Like make sure brightness doesn't have to be jacked up for a reasonable picture, etc.)
> 
> 
> Any help is appreciated, I came across this site/thread whilst researching my renewing interest in the ...960.



I'm sill looking for one close enough I can go get it...No luck. Obviously nothing on Amazone, only the same one for months on flEabay in Mississippi







CL has been no help, and I don't see any convient optioin to search by distance radius anymore. Can anyone help? Where can I go to look for one online? Some type of specialy classified site?


Desperately seeking in Cental PA


----------



## First XBR




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WignersFriend*  /t/408146/the-official-kd-34xbr960-thread/8130#post_24763154
> 
> 
> I'm sill looking for one close enough I can go get it...No luck. Obviously nothing on Amazone, only the same one for months on flEabay in Mississippi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CL has been no help, and I don't see any convient optioin to search by distance radius anymore. Can anyone help? Where can I go to look for one online? Some type of specialy classified site?
> 
> 
> Desperately seeking in Cental PA



If you have any family in California you should visit them. There is usually 1 or 2 960's for sale, on Craigslist.


----------



## First XBR

I have been looking on this forum for more info on the memory stick. Can I play movies ? I am not talking home made movies. My co worker told me to give him a usb or memory stick. He will transfer high quality movies on to the memory stick.


----------



## gary777

I have a Sony KD-34XRB960 that is still pretty much work perfect. However every week or two for a day the TV blacks out for just a few seconds, then when the picture and sound comes back on I see in the upper left Video 6 or 7 in my case, and in the lower left full for screen mode. some times the blink is so quick the picture and sound never go out but the Video 6 or 7 just pops up and the Full, for screen mode.

It does this even when all components are unplugged. Seems the audio and video just drop out for a second. I really like this tv and it'ds been a loooooong time since I have worked on a TV, I am talking pre HD and earlier.

Need some ideas as to what could be happening.

I can simulate the problem by unplugging the device I am using, plug it back in and there is the Vidio and Full on the screen. Just like when I first power it up. I am not losing power though, at least not in the main power supply.

Comments Welcome..


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## gary777

How many times does your red led blink from power on until you get sound and picture. Mine blinks 11 times, is this the norm?
Went to "self diagnosis" and there are no errors, everything shows 0


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## Floydage

Are you sure you're not getting power line glitches? I once had less than a second glitches that impacted all sorts of my electronics in strange ways. I could tell by the flickering of a lamp. Neighbors started having problems too so I called the power company. First guy said it was normal  and I said hogwash. The next guy found the onground transformer had loose connections...

On the day it acts up try plugging in an incandescent lamp into the same outlet or surge protector as the TV (surge protector could be acting up too).


----------



## gary777

Thanks Floyd, I will give it a try the next time it acts up. I May hook up an APC to the TV like the one I have on my computer, got me thinking a voltage spike could be affecting the power supply too....

Still need to know what the proper amount of blinks I should be seeing on my 960


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## Floydage

gary777 said:


> How many times does your red led blink from power on until you get sound and picture. Mine blinks 11 times, is this the norm?
> Went to "self diagnosis" and there are no errors, everything shows 0


Bonus refresh your post and you're welcome on the other one.

You might also ask on this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/64-di...er-standby-light-blinks-help-suggesti-59.html

There's also other 960 threads and Sony standby light blink threads if you feel up to the challenge of trying out this new version of web page's search engine.


----------



## gary777

Thanks, just posted over on the link you posted..Not sure what you mean "Bonus refresh your post and you're welcome on the other one"


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## Floydage

"Bonus refresh your post" was my quoting it for redisplay, and I was giving you a 'you're welcome' for your "Thanks Floyd."

Hey my Sony 20" blinks a bunch of times on power-up, something like 20, then a small break and a few blinks for good measure as the video input display comes up.


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## gary777

OK, got it. I bought a small 22" Sammy for the bedroom to replace my 20" 20 year old Sony Trinitron. It still works but I was running out of room on top of my dresser where my two DVR's & TV are located.

Oh yeah, I ordered a new battery for my APC UPS I was using for my desktop computer, battery went out on it so I just ordered a whole new UPS. I put the old UPS in storage. Glad I kept it, with a little looking I found a replacement battery for $17.61 shipped.

I think you may be right about a voltage drop or spike, Will find out next week.

Thanks for the bonus...


----------



## ArmorOfGod7

I have a KD-34XBR960 that I'm looking to get rid of. I got it on Craigslist about a year and a half ago. It comes with the stand. It's not in the greatest shape, 2 corners of the screen have that weird color-distortion thing going on (not sure what causes that or if it's even fixable, please comment if you know). The outer body has a few dings, but nothing too bad. Other than the corners I mentioned, I've not had any problems with it. 

I'm pretty sure I've seen people exchange these on here before, so I figured I'd offer it up to you guys before throwing it on Craigslist. I'm in SW FL and you would need to bring somebody to help move it. It's on the first floor, no stairs, obstacle-free path to the front door. 

Is it best to just post this here, or should I make a separate thread as well? Thank you.


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## Floydage

As is often the case it's hard to tell whether it's free or some price (I've seen some where it 'sounds' free then a price comes out when someone replies). At least you supplied a geographic region. 

Fine and probably good to post here IMO. Here's a link to the AVS classifieds for CRTs:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/256-direct-view-crt/


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## ArmorOfGod7

Floydage said:


> As is often the case it's hard to tell whether it's free or some price (I've seen some where it 'sounds' free then a price comes out when someone replies). At least you supplied a geographic region.
> 
> Fine and probably good to post here IMO. Here's a link to the AVS classifieds for CRTs:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/256-direct-view-crt/


Sorry, I'm not a regular around here, didn't know there was a classifieds forum. I'll post it there. I'm not sure about a price yet, it mostly depends on whether or not that coloring issue in the 2 corners is fixable. I was hoping to get some feedback on that. I can post a picture if needed, I guess I figured it was a common issue and everybody would know what I was talking about.


----------



## LiquidSnake

If the only problem is discoloration, then yes that's fixable. The screen needs to be degaussed. Multiple off-on states should do this, but if it remains, a manual degaussing with a degauss wand will fix the problem.


----------



## ArmorOfGod7

LiquidSnake said:


> If the only problem is discoloration, then yes that's fixable. The screen needs to be degaussed. Multiple off-on states should do this, but if it remains, a manual degaussing with a degauss wand will fix the problem.


Thanks for the info! I have no interest in fixing it myself, I'm just looking to get rid of it as soon as possible to make room for a new TV. What would be a fair price to ask?


----------



## gary777

ArmorOfGod7 said:


> Thanks for the info! I have no interest in fixing it myself, I'm just looking to get rid of it as soon as possible to make room for a new TV. What would be a fair price to ask?


Hi AOG7, if you give LS's suggestion a try and it clears up the screen, you might be able to get $100-$200 for it from a gamer. Make sure you follow LS's instructions, I would power it on and off about 10-15 times. The 960 will degauss every time you turn them on.

If that does not work, I would put free TV on craigslist. Hard enough to sell these 190 pound monsters as it is, but one that has problems, well...


----------



## DSperber

Just a heads up...

I have put my own XBR960 (calibrated in May 2013 by D-Nice, after he calibrated my new Panny 65VT50 in April 2013) up for sale in the classifieds.

I'm planning to move from LA to Chicago after the summer, and will not be bringing the XBR960 with me. So, if you live in the LA area or relatively nearby on the West Coast and you're interested in acquiring a PERFECT 960, here's your opportunity.

PM me for more info or if you have questions.


----------



## homerging

LiquidSnake said:


> If the only problem is discoloration, then yes that's fixable. The screen needs to be degaussed. Multiple off-on states should do this, but if it remains, a manual degaussing with a degauss wand will fix the problem.


I remember somebody claiming that leaving it unplugged for a while before plugging it directly into the wall socket and turning it back on would be more effective but I can't remember their reasoning. 

If not that, it's possible convergence is off which can be altered in the service menu.


----------



## ArmorOfGod7

gary777 said:


> Hi AOG7, if you give LS's suggestion a try and it clears up the screen, you might be able to get $100-$200 for it from a gamer. Make sure you follow LS's instructions, I would power it on and off about 10-15 times. The 960 will degauss every time you turn them on.
> 
> If that does not work, I would put free TV on craigslist. Hard enough to sell these 190 pound monsters as it is, but one that has problems, well...


Thank you. I'm getting varying results online of how exactly to degauss this thing. Do I just hit the power button, wait for it to turn on completely, turn it off, then turn it right back? Or do I need to wait a certain amount of time in between these steps? I also see people mentioning unplugging the AC adapter completely as opposed to just turning it off, is that actually necessary?


----------



## gary777

AOG7, you know the whomp sound you hear when you first turn on your 960 in the morning or whenever, that is the set doing an auto degauss. Actually to get the full whomp you may have to wait 15-30 minutes in between power on/off/on. You will know it is in auto when you hear that loud whomp noise. Experiment with the on off time. AFAIK there is no reason to unplug TV but it will not hurt anything if you choose to do so.

Page 119 of my manual mentions auto degauss. It just says it goes into auto degauss making a popping sound when ever you turn on your TV. No mention in the manual about unplugging.

Also I read elsewhere, if you have unshielded speakers very near your TV that could cause permanent damage to the CRT by showing false color in the upper left of the screen, I can not vouch for for this.


----------



## ArmorOfGod7

Ok, I guess I need to experiment with how long in between power-offs to get it to actually make that whomp sound, because if I turn it right back on after turning it off it doesn't do it. 

Is there something different about doing this 10-15 times in a short period of time, as opposed to maybe 10-15 times over a period of 10-15 days (once a day)? We usually just turn it on once a day, in the evening, so it makes that whomp sound each time.


----------



## gary777

The auto degauss tries to remove any leftover magnetic field left on the CRT. If you want a more detailed technical understanding, you should do a google on CRT degauss, there is a little more to it, but that's the general idea.

The reason for multiple degauss is, well look at it this way. If your car windshield is really really dirty, just one pass with a sponge and squeegee is not going to get it all. you need to go over it a few more times to get it really clean. The degauss process is sort of like that, with a screen heavily magnetized. 

Try it every few hours for a day, if that does not do it then you can call a repair shop and have them come out and do a professional degauss, which is more aggressive, I am guessing it will not be cost productive to have this done. It may indeed not even be the problem. Of course all of that is for you to decide.


----------



## homerging

gary777 said:


> Also I read elsewhere, if you have unshielded speakers very near your TV that could cause permanent damage to the CRT by showing false color in the upper left of the screen, I can not vouch for for this.


Not just speakers but many devices that use electricity can distort the colour. I've seen a plasma television do that to a CRT from nearly a metre away.


----------



## Floydage

Keep in mind the auto-degauss circuit needs time to cool off. Some TVs without thermal or timer protection will fry the circuit if you get crazy turning it on/off quickly; the ones that do have it you'll notice you won't hear the whomp sound right after the first try.

Now if yours is working (whomp sound?) and you haven't moved it then it should be sufficiently degaussed from normal usage. I have heard that it's better to plug it directly into an outlet for degaussing; I've personally never had an issue with using a surge protector though.

My Panny has a corner problem but it looks like it may have been dropped on that corner. I've never popped it open to see if a magnet broke off or maybe the degauss coil somehow slipped over the corner. For the time-being I've just stuck some old pieces of ferrite (or weak magnets) on the outside around the corner to improve the color; these pieces came from a scrapped CRT, the ones on the back of the tube for alignment.


----------



## ArmorOfGod7

Floydage said:


> Keep in mind the auto-degauss circuit needs time to cool off. Some TVs without thermal or timer protection will fry the circuit if you get crazy turning it on/off quickly; the ones that do have it you'll notice you won't hear the whomp sound right after the first try.
> 
> Now if yours is working (whomp sound?) and you haven't moved it then it should be sufficiently degaussed from normal usage. I have heard that it's better to plug it directly into an outlet for degaussing; I've personally never had an issue with using a surge protector though.
> 
> My Panny has a corner problem but it looks like it may have been dropped on that corner. I've never popped it open to see if a magnet broke off or maybe the degauss coil somehow slipped over the corner. For the time-being I've just stuck some old pieces of ferrite (or weak magnets) on the outside around the corner to improve the color; these pieces came from a scrapped CRT, the ones on the back of the tube for alignment.


Thanks for the additional info. I'll try plugging it directly into the wall and do a few power on's with time in between. If that doesn't help, I'll just give the thing away.


----------



## ArmorOfGod7

homerging said:


> I remember somebody claiming that leaving it unplugged for a while before plugging it directly into the wall socket and turning it back on would be more effective but I can't remember their reasoning.
> 
> If not that, it's possible convergence is off which can be altered in the service menu.


I don't see convergence anywhere in the menu, where exactly would that be?


----------



## DSperber

ArmorOfGod7 said:


> I don't see convergence anywhere in the menu, where exactly would that be?


It's in the service menu, not the user menu.


----------



## homerging

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/64-di...vice-codes-articles-comments-discoveries.html

The service menu isn't friendly to novices and can brick your television if misused. Don't "reset" to pre-factory settings. It may be useful to see a picture of what is going wrong


----------



## Floydage

Doesn't sound like a convergence problem:

http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/tvfaq/tvcrtpca.htm


----------



## ArmorOfGod7

Posted it over in the Classifieds section if anybody is interested:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/256-d...fd-trinitron-34-kd-34xbr960.html#post25528610


----------



## BTV Mark

*Bulk tape eraser*



LiquidSnake said:


> If the only problem is discoloration, then yes that's fixable. The screen needs to be degaussed. Multiple off-on states should do this, but if it remains, a manual degaussing with a degauss wand will fix the problem.


(Sorry...I haven't checked this site for a couple weeks.) 

Yes, this works! I have used a hand-held "bulk tape eraser" many times on various CRT's over the years. It takes a little "courage," but gets rid of the most stubborn colored blotches.

Here's the procedure: Turn the TV on. Place the bulk tape eraser an inch or two from the screen. Switch it on. (Expect to see a "rainbow" pattern. DON'T WORRY...things will be OK.) Move the bulk eraser slowly around the affected area of the screen, in a slow circular motion. Then, slowly...slowly...pull it away from the screen until it's at least 10 feet away. Then switch it off. 

The problem should be gone. If not, repeat the above steps. You'll get it. 

Now, the hard part may be finding the hand-held bulk eraser. They used to be very common, but of course they're rare now. I have a Videoraser Model VX-1401. Here's a link to an e-Bay auction:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sonar-Radio...640?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58b166f4e0

Here's an e-Bay listing for a Radio Shack model, again an e-bay auction:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/311000576394?lpid=82


Good luck! 

Mark


----------



## Joseph Dubin

BTV Mark said:


> (Sorry...I haven't checked this site for a couple weeks.)
> 
> Yes, this works! I have used a hand-held "bulk tape eraser" many times on various CRT's over the years. It takes a little "courage," but gets rid of the most stubborn colored blotches.
> 
> Here's the procedure: Turn the TV on. Place the bulk tape eraser an inch or two from the screen. Switch it on. (Expect to see a "rainbow" pattern. DON'T WORRY...things will be OK.) Move the bulk eraser slowly around the affected area of the screen, in a slow circular motion. Then, slowly...slowly...pull it away from the screen until it's at least 10 feet away. Then switch it off.
> 
> The problem should be gone. If not, repeat the above steps. You'll get it.
> 
> Now, the hard part may be finding the hand-held bulk eraser. They used to be very common, but of course they're rare now. I have a Videoraser Model VX-1401. Here's a link to an e-Bay auction:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sonar-Radio...640?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58b166f4e0
> 
> Here's an e-Bay listing for a Radio Shack model, again an e-bay auction:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/311000576394?lpid=82
> 
> 
> Good luck!
> 
> Mark


Hi Mark,


Still, unplugging the set for about five minutes and then plugging it back directly to the wall socket is probably the easiest way of eliminating both the color distortion and also returning the picture to it's most vibrant quality (somehow they go hand in hand). Even without the magnetic build up, I do this once a month and do notice the "pop" returning to it's stunning picture.


----------



## BTV Mark

Joseph Dubin said:


> Hi Mark,
> 
> 
> Still, unplugging the set for about five minutes and then plugging it back directly to the wall socket is probably the easiest way of eliminating both the color distortion and also returning the picture to it's most vibrant quality (somehow they go hand in hand). Even without the magnetic build up, I do this once a month and do notice the "pop" returning to it's stunning picture.


Absolutely agreed, Joseph. My procedure is definitely something to do only when normal trouble-shooting methods don't work. I should have mentioned this. In my case, this procedure is necessary once or twice a year.

Mark


----------



## baklakiller

I just got an xbr960 & the picture seems a bit out of focus/blurry. Is there some kind of focus pot i can adjust or change in the service menu?


----------



## gary777

baklakiller said:


> I just got an xbr960 & the picture seems a bit out of focus/blurry. Is there some kind of focus pot i can adjust or change in the service menu?


Can you post a photo of the screen with the blurry picture. I would also ask the sell if he ever had the back off and touched anything.

You might want to post this question here also:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/64-di...er-standby-light-blinks-help-suggesti-45.html


----------



## BTV Mark

*Free to a good home*

Well, the time has come, and we're looking at a XBR-55X850B 4k set to replace our wonderful '960. (Any comments on whether that's a good choice for an upgrade?) 

I thought I'd offer it here first, rather than letting the dealer haul it away. So "free to a good home"--if you can pick it up. My bad back won't be able to help. The TV and Sony stand are in the basement rec. room in North Suburban Chicago. The TV had the two "flashing light" driver chips replaced about 3 years ago, so it's in perfect shape.

Mark


----------



## homerging

BTV Mark said:


> Well, the time has come, and we're looking at a XBR-55X850B 4k set to replace our wonderful '960. (Any comments on whether that's a good choice for an upgrade?)


There is a review here
http://www.avforums.com/review/sony-x8505-kd-55-49-65-x8505b-ultra-hd-led-lcd-4k-3d-tv-review.10556

You could try putting the XBR960 on Craigslist or eBay as a dealer would just send it to be junked.


----------



## Floydage

BTV Mark said:


> I thought I'd offer it here first, rather than letting the dealer haul it away. So "free to a good home"--if you can pick it up. My bad back won't be able to help. The TV and Sony stand are in the basement rec. room in North Suburban Chicago. The TV had the two "flashing light" driver chips replaced about 3 years ago, so it's in perfect shape.
> 
> Mark


Very noble of you! I was going to tell you there's a classified section on AVS but I see you posted there too. In the event there's no AVS takers indeed try CL. You can even make a few bucks there especially with the stand, heck the stand is more valuable to most folks to place their big screens on and much easier than the TV to move.

Wish you were here,
Pink Floydage

P.S. Been up that way a few times when I worked for Motorola. Mostly Arlington Heights and surrounding suburbs but a few trips downtown for fun. Love the food, especially the pizza!


----------



## homerging

I'm curious, how high off the ground does the stand measure?


----------



## Floydage

And is it the "Sony stand" that is made for and nicely matches up with a 960? (That was my assumption).


----------



## BTV Mark

*Sony Stand*



Floydage said:


> And is it the "Sony stand" that is made for and nicely matches up with a 960? (That was my assumption).


Yes, it's the matching Sony stand. 

It "stands" 18" high, which puts the bottom of the TV frame at 19."

Regards, 

Mark


----------



## BTV Mark

homerging said:


> There is a review here
> http://www.avforums.com/review/sony-x8505-kd-55-49-65-x8505b-ultra-hd-led-lcd-4k-3d-tv-review.10556
> 
> You could try putting the XBR960 on Craigslist or eBay as a dealer would just send it to be junked.


Thanks! This is a very nice review. 


Regards, 

Mark


----------



## AEntreri0

I bought my 960 in 2008 on craigslist and it has served me well since then until two months ago when the screen gained a pink hue when a significant portion of the image was white. Soon, images on the screen in areas of high contrast began producing faint horizontal bands, and finally the screen would flicker and darken when turning on the display. All of this was with the component input, so I tried HDMI from my PC and I was truly dismayed: with nothing but my white mouse cursor on a black background, the screen was red all the way down to the level of the cursor, where it was also red to the left of the cursor horizontally.

I've since moved to an apartment for medical school and I've left the 960 at my parents' house, but I'm hoping it can still be fixed. Until these problems began, the tube had fantastic convergence and no problems with brightness or distortion. Does anyone have an idea what's wrong and if it's reparable?


----------



## JA Fant

Welcome! AEntrei0

read back over this thread and there is some mention of the 'red screen of death'.
I have had my 960, 10 years, next month- I hope I can get as much time out of this CRT as possible


----------



## JA Fant

Second note-

every so often, I get a light green screen, while watching tv programming (not DVD viewing).
I simply turn off the crt, wait 1-2 minutes, then turn back on- picture returns to normal viewing...


----------



## drvais

JA Fant said:


> Second note-
> 
> every so often, I get a light green screen, while watching tv programming (not DVD viewing).
> I simply turn off the crt, wait 1-2 minutes, then turn back on- picture returns to normal viewing...



In that case, it's easier to just change or unplug the HDMI input rather than turning off the set.


----------



## JA Fant

Many Thanks! drvais-

do you get this (issue) w/ your 960 as well?


----------



## First XBR

I am moving to Houston in February & can't fit the tv in my trunk. I really hope I can find another one there. I watched Guardians of the Galaxy on Saturday & it was hard to believe, how good the picture looks, wow.


----------



## Bracamonte

Recently, I'm noticing grainy text on my KD-34XBR960 when in HD, mostly when playing games on my xbox 360. The only solution I know of was to decrease the brightness and picture, but I usually don't like dark images. Does anyone know any other solutions?


----------



## DSperber

Bracamonte said:


> Recently, I'm noticing grainy text on my KD-34XBR960 when in HD, mostly when playing games on my xbox 360. The only solution I know of was to decrease the brightness and picture, but I usually don't like dark images. Does anyone know any other solutions?


I have my own XBR960 that's in absolutely perfect condition which I'd like to sell. I upgraded to a 65" Panny 65VT50 about two years ago and really haven't had the 960 powered on but maybe five times in these past two years. I've been the sole owner since I bought it new in 2004, and it was what I thought was tweaked to perfection (in service menu and user menu) until I decided to finally have it calibrated after seeing what difference a calibration could make when I had D-Nice do a calibration on my VT50.

So one of those power-on times for my 960 in the past two years times was for D-Nice to return a second time to do a calibration of my 960. Results were amazing. The two sets are physically side by side in the same room so seeing them both on together and tuned to the same program is quite startling, as the color is absolutely the same on both although the VT50 is of course 4X the size of the 960 so that it's hard to mentally do an honest comparison, and also the VT50 is brighter than the 960. But otherwise, they look like Mutt and Jeff because the color on both is identical, and superb.

Anyway, I'd like to find a good new home for my 960. I really have other intentions for the entertainment credenza it's been sitting on for 11 years.

I'm in Los Angeles. PM me if you're interested in acquiring it.


----------



## JA Fant

Sorry to read about your wanting to part w/ your 960. 10 years of ownership here, hopefully another 10! 


For those considering this CRT- Go For It!


----------



## JA Fant

I wished I lived near you, DSperber


----------



## JA Fant

Happy New Year!


----------



## 9604me

WOW, wanted a 960 since 2004, ended up settling for a 970 in 2006 and have used the hell out of it ever since. Started really looking for a used 960 about five years ago. FINALLY took a ~10 hour road trip to pick one up last week for 100bucks(960 manufactured 2004). Unfortunately it wasn't an "N" model, but I snagged it up. Was dismayed when I got it home that I had to turn the brightness up so much for a decent picture. When I went to look at it I thought nothing of the the "picture" and "brightness" settings being in the high forties to fifties for a good pic(I didn't realize the adjustablel scale did NOT go to 100). Is it normal for tv and hd to have these two settings in the high forties to fifties?
Also, It had a "dent" in the center of the screen and a constellation of tiny dots around the dent in the anti-glare film. SO, after much reading around here on the subject, and mentions of the underlying outer screen being acrylic or plastic, and other horror stories of chemicals, and buffing, and scrubbing, and ruining, etc. I proceeded to tear apart the cabinet and front bezel(partially) and remove the film with great trepidation...It took a while, and shredded my hands, but I managed to peel off the layer after getting ahold of a top corner of the film, where the tube it rounded in the corner. It IS glass underneath, and it does look amazing compared to my 970 All you have to do to see what's making the difference is shine a flashlight at the screen(while not powered on) and see the difference in size of of the apertures between the two...


----------



## Floydage

Sounds unusually high if that's near the top of the scale, unless it's in one of the those dark pic modes (ex: Movie).


----------



## FG201

are there still people who can calibrate these things?


----------



## DSperber

FG201 said:


> are there still people who can calibrate these things?


I had mine done by D-Nice back in May 2013. Very satisfied, although I haven't used my now-calibrated 960 virtually at all since January 2013 when I bought a Panny 65VT50 (also calibrated by D-Nice in April 2013).

The 960 is now just sitting on its table silently and sadly, knowing it really can't compete any longer.


----------



## FG201

DSperber said:


> I had mine done by D-Nice back in May 2013. Very satisfied, although I haven't used my now-calibrated 960 virtually at all since January 2013 when I bought a Panny 65VT50 (also calibrated by D-Nice in April 2013).
> 
> The 960 is now just sitting on its table silently and sadly, knowing it really can't compete any longer.


hmm, well my XBR970 that I wanna use for games has some really disappointing bowing geometry issues that I hear can be fixed via the service menu but there is seemingly no way of finding what you need to change in 2015 with most google searches leading to spam or archived threads with 404 links.

if you have any advice I am all ears.


----------



## DSperber

FG201 said:


> hmm, well my XBR970 that I wanna use for games has some really disappointing bowing geometry issues that I hear can be fixed via the service menu but there is seemingly no way of finding what you need to change in 2015 with most google searches leading to spam or archived threads with 404 links.
> 
> if you have any advice I am all ears.


I've shared my own settings before, but it's probably not easy to find given the length of this thread.

Given the analog nature of these sets, every one is genuinely unique. So one set's "tweaked to perfection" values is as usable for another set as my prescription eyeglasses might be for you... namely, not very usable. Nevertheless this still might give you something to start from, especially in the geometry area where you at least would know what the adjustments are for so that you can do your own tweaks one click at a time.

One other thing... my set had a "magnet job" done on its picture tube shortly after purchase in 2004. That's because I felt the delivered image quality was inferior, and wanted it repaired. Not all curvature anomalies can be fixed through the service menu, but can only be corrected through magnets placed on the back of the picture tube. And of course this takes patience, a trained and skilled service technician, and a large bunch of magnets. The Sony service "factory authorized technician" who was first sent out was no such trained and skilled service technician, and was unwilling to spend more than an hour trying to fix the problem (and didn't suggest a "magnet job" was needed). He left but the problem remained.

I then re-contacted Sony and they authorized me to arrange for a visit by one of three local service places they named. I was very fortunate that the second place I called seemed to have much experience with Sony TV's and the XBR family in particular. The service tech who came out was indeed a "zen master" and realized that a magnet job was required. He proceeded to spend two hours working (standing behind the set and holding a mirror out in front of the set so he could see the effect of his magnet placement), before he eventually ran out of his on-hand supply of magnets. He said he'd be back the next day with more magnets and to finish the job. Sure enough he returned the next day armed with another bag of magnets, and stayed for another hour until the job was complete. And sure enough, the job WAS done... and sure enough the bowing and curvature had been 99.9% corrected. Not absolutely perfect (remember this is an analog set, not a digital set), but essentially and acceptably "perfect" whereas before this it definitely was not.

So my geometry tweaks in the service menu must be considered along with the analog effects of the magnet job, so again this may not work for you.

Nevertheless, here is my own complete 960 user/service menu setup in the attached spreadsheet.


----------



## FG201

DSperber said:


> I had mine done by D-Nice back in May 2013. Very satisfied, although I haven't used my now-calibrated 960 virtually at all since January 2013 when I bought a Panny 65VT50 (also calibrated by D-Nice in April 2013).
> 
> The 960 is now just sitting on its table silently and sadly, knowing it really can't compete any longer.





DSperber said:


> I've shared my own settings before, but it's probably not easy to find given the length of this thread.
> 
> Given the analog nature of these sets, every one is genuinely unique. So one set's "tweaked to perfection" values is as usable for another set as my prescription eyeglasses might be for you... namely, not very usable. Nevertheless this still might give you something to start from, especially in the geometry area where you at least would know what the adjustments are for so that you can do your own tweaks one click at a time.
> 
> One other thing... my set had a "magnet job" done on its picture tube shortly after purchase in 2004. That's because I felt the delivered image quality was inferior, and wanted it repaired. Not all curvature anomalies can be fixed through the service menu, but can only be corrected through magnets placed on the back of the picture tube. And of course this takes patience, a trained and skilled service technician, and a large bunch of magnets. The Sony service "factory authorized technician" who was first sent out was no such trained and skilled service technician, and was unwilling to spend more than an hour trying to fix the problem (and didn't suggest a "magnet job" was needed). He left but the problem remained.
> 
> I then re-contacted Sony and they authorized me to arrange for a visit by one of three local service places they named. I was very fortunate that the second place I called seemed to have much experience with Sony TV's and the XBR family in particular. The service tech who came out was indeed a "zen master" and realized that a magnet job was required. He proceeded to spend two hours working (standing behind the set and holding a mirror out in front of the set so he could see the effect of his magnet placement), before he eventually ran out of his on-hand supply of magnets. He said he'd be back the next day with more magnets and to finish the job. Sure enough he returned the next day armed with another bag of magnets, and stayed for another hour until the job was complete. And sure enough, the job WAS done... and sure enough the bowing and curvature had been 99.9% corrected. Not absolutely perfect (remember this is an analog set, not a digital set), but essentially and acceptably "perfect" whereas before this it definitely was not.
> 
> So my geometry tweaks in the service menu must be considered along with the analog effects of the magnet job, so again this may not work for you.
> 
> Nevertheless, here is my own complete 960 user/service menu setup in the attached spreadsheet.


thanks, are the numbers in the parentheses ie: 1 (0) alternate values that would work? Also I assume you do this for all resolutions separately?


----------



## 9604me

I was messing around (completely ignorantly) in the service menu of my 970 last year trying to correct some overscan issues. Messing around with something, I caused the same kind of bowing you're seeing. I was able to fumble around and mostly correct it...


----------



## DSperber

FG201 said:


> thanks, are the numbers in the parentheses ie: 1 (0) alternate values that would work? Also I assume you do this for all resolutions separately?


Scroll down the Service Menu tab to row 610, for notes and explanations.

A single value in a cell is both the current setting value as well as the default value for that item in that column. If a current setting value is other than the default, it is shown first followed by the default value in parentheses. All values in the C-1080i column are colored SALMON. These are the reference values for all other columns. Values in any 1080i column which differ from the value in the C-1080i column are colored PALE GREEN. Values in any 720p column which differ from the value in the C-1080i column are colored PALE YELLOW. Values in any 480p/i column which differ from the value in the C-1080i column are colored PALE BLUE. The i/A-1080i and i/A-720p columns contain the common values for both i-Link (firewire) and ATSC tuner. Values in any column that have no color are identical to the value shown in the C-1080i column for that row. 
Note that "C-1080i" means "component video 1080i", whereas "H-1080i" means "HDMI 1080i". And "i/A-1080i"
means "iLink/ATSC tuner 1080i" (where iLink is firewire input). Etc., etc.


----------



## FG201

DSperber said:


> Scroll down the Service Menu tab to row 610, for notes and explanations.
> 
> A single value in a cell is both the current setting value as well as the default value for that item in that column. If a current setting value is other than the default, it is shown first followed by the default value in parentheses. All values in the C-1080i column are colored SALMON. These are the reference values for all other columns. Values in any 1080i column which differ from the value in the C-1080i column are colored PALE GREEN. Values in any 720p column which differ from the value in the C-1080i column are colored PALE YELLOW. Values in any 480p/i column which differ from the value in the C-1080i column are colored PALE BLUE. The i/A-1080i and i/A-720p columns contain the common values for both i-Link (firewire) and ATSC tuner. Values in any column that have no color are identical to the value shown in the C-1080i column for that row.
> Note that "C-1080i" means "component video 1080i", whereas "H-1080i" means "HDMI 1080i". And "i/A-1080i"
> means "iLink/ATSC tuner 1080i" (where iLink is firewire input). Etc., etc.


thanks for the help :grin:


----------



## Floydage

FG201 said:


> hmm, well my XBR970 that I wanna use for games has some really disappointing bowing geometry issues that I hear can be fixed via the service menu but there is seemingly no way of finding what you need to change in 2015 with most google searches leading to spam or archived threads with 404 links.


Try to search within this here AVS using 'their' search function. It's still here. I would search the 970 thread first though.


----------



## FG201

So my xbr970 autodetects 16:9 PS2 games as 4:3, and letters boxes them. No matter what I seem to do, I either have blackbars on the sides or a stretched image, despite the ps2 game clearly being set to 16:9. All settings changes have been fruitless, it simply can't be convinced a ps2 is 16:9. Do I have any options here?


----------



## 9604me

FG201 said:


> So my xbr970 autodetects 16:9 PS2 games as 4:3, and letters boxes them. No matter what I seem to do, I either have blackbars on the sides or a stretched image, despite the ps2 game clearly being set to 16:9. All settings changes have been fruitless, it simply can't be convinced a ps2 is 16:9. Do I have any options here?


 I used my 970 ALOT for ps2...Are you using 480i only, or does your connection work with 480P, 720p, and 1080i? If it's an hd signal, you shouldn't have a problem. Can you set the tv to display "full" mode when 4:3 is detected? This should do it for you...


----------



## Klaus_Laserdisc

Hello!
First post here, longtime visitor. Finally decided to make an account.

I picked up a 960 with the matching stand on Craiglist a few weeks ago. Image is pretty incredible for a CRT set. Problem is, there are some minor convergence issues. Just some slight colored edges on high contrast objects, most noticeable with small white text.
Not a huge problem, but I would like to get it fixed. I have adjusted convergence with a couple small Sony TVs from the early 80s. However, because of the precision required for the 960, I would prefer a professional calibration. (And frankly, I would not want to mess around inside that monster, yikes!)

Seeking some advice here: Is this something that could be aligned through the service menu, or does this require adjustments with rings/magnets? (Or both) 

If anyone has a ballpark idea of what a calibration would cost in 2015, that would be helpful. The set was pretty inexpensive, so I'm willing to pay a premium if I have to.

Thanks.


----------



## 9604me

It was recommended to me( when I RECENTLY picked up my 960) to contact "LionAv" and catch a technician near me on a "service/calibration loop" for a fee of ~$300-$500....I personally have NOT explored this yet...Can anyone chime in with personal experience with LionAv, perhaps?


----------



## Ratman

I has Gregg Loewen calibrate my RCA F38310 about 10 years ago. More than satisfied.


----------



## Floydage

Wow, I didn't know calibration cost that much and folks are currently willing to pay 5x or more the value of these old TVs for the service. Might as well get those potentially flaky power supply control chips replaced while they're at it.

BTW there's currently a 34" 960 in the D/FW Craigslist Free section that they claim needs a "high voltage board" "$100" (maybe the chips?).


----------



## Ratman

Floydage said:


> Wow, I didn't know calibration cost that much and folks are currently willing to pay 5x or more the value of these old TVs for the service.


Full professional calibration is worth the price with a new(er) TV. IMHO, it's tough to justify the expense for a 10+ year old TV.

Prices:
http://lionav.com/new/?page_id=11


----------



## Floydage

Indeed, especially the ones into the thousands of dollars (like the CRTs were back when). But do the new TVs need much cal? At least the geometry 'should be' spot on by design.


----------



## Ratman

My F38310 was $2,400 (in 2002).


----------



## Floydage

Yep, made perfect sense at that price. Plus that's a mighty big tube to get geometry correct on.


----------



## Ratman

I did all of the geometry settings myself. Gregg did the rest (greyscale, etc.)


----------



## 9604me

Well...Trying to get a cable card to work in my newly acquired 960. So far no luck with any "M" cards...IF I can get an "S" card, is that the solution? I found ALOT of conflicting info searching around. Is there ANYONE out there currently using a cable card in their 960? If so, is it a "M" or "S"? Any problems getting it to display pairing info?


----------



## DSperber

9604me said:


> Well...Trying to get a cable card to work in my newly acquired 960. So far no luck with any "M" cards...IF I can get an "S" card, is that the solution? I found ALOT of conflicting info searching around. Is there ANYONE out there currently using a cable card in their 960? If so, is it a "M" or "S"? Any problems getting it to display pairing info?


M-cards are the wrong kind for use in a TV. S-cards are the proper type for the single-tuner 960.

And of course as a result you won't have "on-demand" capability, as that requires an M-card and a suitable two-way device... which the one-way 960 is not.


----------



## 9604me

Thanks for the reply. Do I lose any functionality at all with an S compared to an M but also considering the tv's limitations? Will I still have a "guide" that I will see what will be on, not just what IS on? Will the index feature of the pip work? Thanks for any knowledgeable replies.


----------



## Klaus_Laserdisc

Thanks for the advice on calibration! 
The Lion A/V is a little too pricey for my purposes. I'm not looking for perfection for a set of this age. As far as I'm concerned, the convergence issues are minor enough that they do not disrupt a film. 
I will look into asking some local TV repair shops what their prices would be for adjustments. I'm aiming for the $100 - $200 range. For now, just enjoying having a 34' monitor at all! All the TV sets I've owned have been 4:3. 
Also, I am blown away by the sound quality of this thing. I was going to hook it up to my stereo, but the speakers are equivalent if not better. Surround sound... eventually, but what an incredible oddball of a TV. Still amazed widescreen CRT even exists, I had no clue until about a couple years ago.


----------



## JA Fant

Thanks! for sharing your settings, DSperber.


----------



## JA Fant

Klaus,

there are still a few guys who can/will calibrate these wonderful sets. Where are you located?


----------



## DSperber

9604me said:


> Thanks for the reply. Do I lose any functionality at all with an S compared to an M but also considering the tv's limitations? Will I still have a "guide" that I will see what will be on, not just what IS on? Will the index feature of the pip work? Thanks for any knowledgeable replies.


The purpose of the cablecard is simply to facilitate decryption of encrypted content being delivered by your cable provider. The 960 tuner works with the cablecard, and you can now watch an copy-freely or copy-once content on the 960 from any channel you're subscribed to receive, encrypted or not.

There is no DVR capability in the 960. Full GUIDE capability comes with STB/DVR boxes from your cable provider, but that is independent functionality from the decryption function provided through the cablecard. So I'm sure you will NOT have any cable provider GUIDE capability. Now you might have a TV Guide Network channel, which should hopefully provide what's on for you in your area, but I can't guarantee that.

Also, I'm quite sure there is no pay-per-view possible with the S-cablecard in the 960. It's simply a one-way device designed to facilitate decryption of enrypted content. Period. Pay-per-view requires bi-directional capability.

To be honest, I've never actually had a cablecard for use in my 960. I've always had a cable company STB/DVR, which is where the multi-tuner M-card and bi-directional pay-per-view capability can be found. But based on page 57 of the 960 User Manual, for sure "scrolling index does not function if you're using Cablecard".


----------



## 9604me

Thanks for the informative reply...I finally did get an S card from a resilient/empathetic technician (he claimed it was a miracle to find, and probably my only option besides getting on some kind of waiting list...) and it worked! I now have all channels available in HD for the first time, and have the tv outputting analog and optical audio to my sony audio receiver. Everything's great except that the "fixed/variable" doesn't apply to the optical out, and I can't get the 960's remote to work the volume on my newer sony receiver when watching cc tuned channels...Also, is there any way to activate the closed captioning easily with a few presses of the display button(instead of going thru the menu system) like my older 4:3 Wega did?


----------



## 9604me

Also, I'm VERY interested in any way to capture video/audio out via firewire...I came across alot of stuff searching around, my questions are: Besides some specific tape recording mechanisms, is there any device readily available that will communicate with the 960 via firewire and record output? If so, would only tv channels be output via the firewire, or would also hdmi inputs(ps3, etc) output a recordable output via firewire?


----------



## DSperber

9604me said:


> Also, I'm VERY interested in any way to capture video/audio out via firewire...I came across alot of stuff searching around, my questions are: Besides some specific tape recording mechanisms, is there any device readily available that will communicate with the 960 via firewire and record output?


Recording of HD programs in original bit-perfect 720p/1080i HD quality including original digital audio present in HDTV content? Is that your desire?

There are no disc-based HD recording solutions (to transcribe programs to recordable media, as we use to do with tape-based VCRs) available in America, as "the Suits" don't want anything simple or user-friendly to allow home recording to the user-friendly BluRay media. There are PC-based solutions, including the ability to edit copy-freely content and then burn-to-BluRay blank media, but only for copy-freely content. You cannot do anything with copy-protected content (e.g. programs provided in encrypted form by your cable service provider) except for play it back through cable company hardware or through cablecard-enabled decrypting.

Although they are no longer manufactured, you can use DVHS VCR's (made by JVC, e.g. DT100U which also includes a built-in OTA/ATSC tuner if you have a roof antenna and can receive free local broadcast networks that way) which are still available on the used market. These can record HD digital content in bit-perfect digital form to DVHS tape (although they can also be forced to use SVHS tape in digital mode), either directly via their OTA/ATSC digital TV tuner, or fed with copy-freely content via firewire.

I myself have five of these DVHS VCRs (they used to get quite a bit of use in the old days), but today not one of which is still currently actively being used because they've become obsoleted ever since cable companies decided to encrypt 100% of their channels. But if you have roof antenna capability, you can still use these DVHS VCR's to make recordings of OTA/ATSC channels and then play them back to the 960 in true bit-perfect HDTV form... either via component video, or more preferably via HDMI.

As far as recording TO the DVHS VCRs FROM the 960 via firewire, that is also possible (using the 960's iLink 1394 connectors and connecting to the firewire connectors on the DVHS VCR) when the source is the 960's built-in OTA/ATSC tuner... as long as the original program content is copy-freely and not encrypted. The outboard DVHS VCR's are not cablecard enabled, and so possess no way to do the required decryption if necessary. Also, the DVHS VCR's are built to honor copy-once protection flags, designed to allow 1st-generation offloading of content from a DVR to a DVHS VCR via firewire (from DVR's that supported this, like from Motorola/Cisco). But the VCR won't allow you to connect a second DVHS VCR via firewire and make a digitally-perfect 2nd-generation copy to the second VCR, since that violates the "copy-once" notion.

I honestly don't know about whether cable-provided encrypted content that is fed to a cablecard-enabled 960 can then feed that content to an outboard DVHS VCR via firewire (same as a cable company DVR would) successfully. If it provided the original encrypted content then that obviously would not be usable, since there's no cablecard in the VCR. If it provided the decrypted content (thanks to the cablecard in the 960) then where is the copy-protection which still should be present? So I'm not sure if cable-provided content can be fed to the firewire outputs of the 960, but it doesn't seem plausible to me.




> If so, would only tv channels be output via the firewire, or would also hdmi inputs(ps3, etc) output a recordable output via firewire?


Well for sure any TV channels from the built-in OTA/ATSC tuner in the 960 would be output via firewire.

However I'm almost positive that cablecard-facilitated content would not be delivered to the 960's firewire output, for the reasons I described above.

As far as external input (e.g. HDMI input) to the 960 that is absolutely not going to be sent to firewire. Remember that firewire connections are intended to carry the original MPEG-2 compressed content in its "relatively low bitrate", not the "high-bitrate" uncompressed video output delivered to the 960 via HDMI (where the decoding/decompression has been done by the source device and is delivered over HDMI to a secure HDCP-enabled device). Again, this is all an attempt to prevent 100% bit-perfect digital piracy.


----------



## 9604me

Thanks again for the very informative reply! Thanks for confirming I couldn't possibly capture inputs to the tv thru the firewire link. Guess I'm not that interested in capturing tv....Definitely not to tape. I didn't think any capture cards for pc would work because of no existing drivers for the 960? Is that correct?
Thanks again.


----------



## Floydage

Interesting stuff for me to know too.

9604me, I have sort of the Panansonic version of one of these TVs and use an HDD/DVD recorder and a DVD recorder to record HD OTA channel content via converter boxes with s-video outputs. At this screen size and being a CRT there's not much degradation, I have to be sitting real close to notice. And I personally like the pic better with the output set to 480i vs. any 'fuzzy' upscaling from the recorders (my Panny doesn't have DVI or HDMI so I use component, but the recorders do have digital outputs). Generally DVD quality as I use the highest quality recording settings (i.e. 1 hour per DVD).

Anyhow my thinking is that you might see if your 960 has any 'monitor' A/V outputs that could work for this. My Panny has s-video and composite outputs (+ audio) but it doesn't have a cable input to try this scenario.


----------



## meowmix

*Kd-34xbr960 10 red blinks and rolling screen*

Hey guys. I have a new issue with my Kd-34xbr960 and after being unsuccessful scouring the internet for a solution I thought id post here. I love this thread and ive read through most of it over the last 2 years of owning this TV.

for the last 2 months when i turn on the TV, on any input, from any video source, component 5, component 6, S video etc...the red light blinks 11 times and the screen jitters, rolls, and has problems adjusting itself in the center. 

This goes on for about 2 minutes after startup and then its fine. Here is a video i took of it starting up the super nintendo.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j_8qJK8P3z0&feature=youtu.be

I have taken the back off and tried adjusting the screen knob multiple times without success. Perhaps im adjusting it incorrectly? 

Anyone have any ideas???

thanks guys


----------



## jhunterthompson

*slight shadow in 2 corners*

Hello,

I recently purchased a 34XBR960. I notice that when the screen is on a light color, either white or 25% gray scale, there is a slight bluish green splotch on the left side about 1 inch or so above the corner and on the top right, in the corner.

I can adjust it via the landing menu and get it reduced but it never completely goes away. My adjustments are at the limits of the menu, for instance reducing the LB to 40 and increasing the RT to 220 or so. 

I was wondering if having the values at such extremes will have a negative consequence on the life of the television or is there are other service menu settings which may help alleviate the issue.

Thank you


----------



## Floydage

Since you recently purchased it, and I'm assuming recently moved it, has it had very many on/off cycles in its new compass position to fully degauss? And if yes, do you hear the 'boing' sound on power-up to feel confident that the degauss circuit is working properly?

My Panny ~version of one of these has a similar problem with one corner a little pink and another a little blue. It has a crack in the cabinet on the pink side so I'm thinking it was dropped, maybe altering the CRT magnets. Unfortunately I couldn't find enough service menu info on this obscure model so the best I could do was place some weak magnets on the cabinet around the pink corner; these were old ferrite strips from the back of a long gone CRT, very weak in magnetism (it doesn't take much). Fortunately the pink corner is lower left and my vision isn't drawn that direction very much. The blue corner is so mild I hardly notice it, at the moment I don't even remember which corner it is.


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## JA Fant

Welcome! to the club- jhunter


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## jhunterthompson

Thank you for the reply. 

Yes, I recently moved it and it admittedly banged around a bit in the back of the car. Not too much but a little. I do not believe there was any physical damage in moving it.

There have not been many power on cycles as i have had it 6 days. Maybe two cycles a day. 

As i mentioned i am able to reduce it greatly via the landing menu and have gotten it to a point where it is only visible when the corners are white or very light. As soon as they get a color the splotches seem to blend in enough so i don't notice. Also, to be fair, i never mentioned it to anyone in the house and nobody but me has noticed it. I'm just picky like that i guess.

Anyway, I tried a few smaller refrigerator magnets last night and they had no effect when held to the case. My magnet collection is either very weak or far to strong and the color distortion was very visible when i got close to the screen.

I held the stereo speakers to the case to ensure the shielding was there and working properly and they caused no distortion either so i am confident that it is not any of the equipment near the TV causing it.

If it is as good as it will get as it is, i can live with it. The TV was only $120 so i don't feel like I got a bad deal.

Thank you.


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## Floydage

Sounds like enough cycles. Unless maybe they had some speakers, etc. near it for a long time and may take longer to snap out of it. Yeah white is when mine is most noticeable too, which makes sense since the colors must combine equally to generate white. Sometimes I notice it when there's an 'opposite' color. I hope my Panny has the landing function if I can ever figure out the service menu, thanks for that back at ya.


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## JA Fant

jhunter-

did you know the TV's history prior to buying it?


----------



## jhunterthompson

JA Fant said:


> jhunter-
> 
> did you know the TV's history prior to buying it?


Hello,

Not much. I am the second owner and i wanted to upgrade my older 27 inch 4:3 tv and wanted a CRT with HDMI so i could plug my htpc into it. This one fit the bill and the price was right. It was a 1 1/2 hour drive to the guys house and i didn't bother to look much more then to see it worked.

I took some pictures of the light blue discolorations.

They are in the upper right and lower left when the screen is list. I am unable to adjust it away with the lading menu.

They only show on a bright screen, 

http://imgur.com/2H8msYZ,oS2FLfv,uDUutq7#0


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi all,

I'm afraid I will be saying goodbye to this particular forum.

Late last week got the dreaded rapid on and off blinking and the set would not turn on. Unplugged it for a while, no dice. Kept on turning it on and off and maybe after ten minutes or so it would finally go on. But the next day the same problem and after ten or so minutes of attempt, would go on. Then the next day struggled again a bit longer (keeping it unplugged over night) and would not go on at all. One time I thought it would as I heard the diffuser go on but after the fourth red light would hear that loud click which would indicate something was wrong.

Know others had a circuit board replaced but this was not worth fixing because it would have needed a technician which is quite costly and the set already had areas where the coating was off. So ordered the Sony KDL 50W800B and will use the 360's stand. Wish me luck.

Had to discard it myself. At 63 was not going to risk my health so slid it off the stand and let it fall to floor (told better half not to get scared of noise, she still did LOL) then got a dolly and after tilting it against a love seat was able to wedge the dolly onto it and then it was just a matter of rolling it downstairs to our dumpster and letting our custodial people deal with it then (our people are not allowed to do this even on their own time). 

So it's been nice chatting with all of you and sorry I have to go.  It's a shame, still had a great picture despite ten years old but from what I read, this new Sony will be a nice replacement and it is much bigger. 

Joe


----------



## Floydage

RIP 960, hope you make it to e-cycling.
Adios Joe and GL with your new Sony! At least you have the stand to remember the old one by.


----------



## JA Fant

Take Care- Joseph


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Hi Floyd and JA,

Wanted to wait till had the 50w800b for a while to compare some thoughts.

Will not talk about screen size for the impact is obviously unfair. But LEDs have come along way in ten years. There is still a certain "punch" from not being flat I miss from the 960 but the sharpness, color, black and yes, even the depth have to admit has me floored so the tradeoff is worth it.

Will say the 960 still holds its own when recognizing one is comparing a modern set to one that is ten years old. That is as good a tribute one can give. No regrets having it all these years for the pleasures it gave us.


----------



## Floydage

There were some 960 aficionados here that went for the Panasonic plasmas albeit the higher-end models (I think VT models). Sounded like the closest one could get to a CRT/960 and of course with some parameters being better. Probably getting hard to find new now though.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Floydage said:


> There were some 960 aficionados here that went for the Panasonic plasmas albeit the higher-end models (I think VT models). Sounded like the closest one could get to a CRT/960 and of course with some parameters being better. Probably getting hard to find new now though.


Hi,

Originally wanted plasma too but on the most part those are not being manufactured anymore. Did s lot of research cause one cannot go by store demos.


----------



## 9604me

I recently found a KD-34XS955 with stand for sale a few miles away...Am I to understand this is basically the same as my 960 sans PIP, and the now defunct features like i-link and firewire? Is it really the exact same tube?


----------



## JA Fant

I, too, have often wondered about the picture tube in both the 34XBR800 and 34XS955?
At any rate, all of these sets are very fine CRT(s).


----------



## Joseph Dubin

9604me said:


> I recently found a KD-34XS955 with stand for sale a few miles away...Am I to understand this is basically the same as my 960 sans PIP, and the now defunct features like i-link and firewire? Is it really the exact same tube?


I think the picture tube is not super fine pitch.


----------



## Floydage

SFP tube yes 955, 800 no per this:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FD_Trinitron/WEGA

I think if you search some old reviews like CNET for the 960 you'll see mention of changes from the 955.


----------



## sokoban

*Anyone Want a 960?*

I have a 34XBR960 I'm looking to get rid of. Located in Lexington, KY. Anyone interested?


----------



## Floydage

sokoban said:


> I have a 34XBR960 I'm looking to get rid of. Located in Lexington, KY. Anyone interested?


There's also a classified section on AVS:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/256-direct-view-crt/

but nice of you to offer it here first.


----------



## RWetmore

9604me said:


> I recently found a KD-34XS955 with stand for sale a few miles away...Am I to understand this is basically the same as my 960 sans PIP, and the now defunct features like i-link and firewire? Is it really the exact same tube?



Yes, it's the same exact same Super Fine Pitch Tube, but the XS955 does not have an anti-glare coating (which I think is a plus).


----------



## Floydage

RWetmore said:


> Yes, it's the same exact same Super Fine Pitch Tube, but the XS955 does not have an anti-glare coating (which I think is a plus).


Actually it does, it has to have an N suffix to not have the coating:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FD_Trinitron/WEGA

I think the only differences between the 955 and 960 were certain features, the major stuff was the same.


----------



## RWetmore

Floydage said:


> Actually it does, it has to have an N suffix to not have the coating:http://



I owned the XS955 and it did not have an anti-glare coating, where as the XBR960 did (which I removed).


----------



## Floydage

That's weird RW if yours doesn't have an N suffix per Sony model number configurations. Unless someone removed the film before you got it. Or that Wiki page is wrong for the 955s, I've never researched it more than that. I'm pretty sure the 960s are correct from what I've seen elsewhere. But glad you didn't have to mess with the stuff.


----------



## Bracamonte

What is the best TV stand that can be used for the 960? I have ten video game consoles, a directv DVR, and a VHS/DVD player.


----------



## Floydage

There was a Sony stand made specifically for this TV and the other Sony models with the same form factor. Looks pretty cool as it matches up exactly with the contour of the sides, color, etc.

There was a member that found an eBay seller with a good substitute, the Sony stand for one of the big 4:3 models. Seems it could actually hold more weight then the 960 stand (BTW keep in mind the 960 weighs about 200 lbs. - with the lightness of flat panels beware the capacity of newer stands). That seller had more available and I think they were new. Another member replied to him with his own substitute. It was either several pages back on this thread, maybe another 960 thread or the 970 thread, or a thread he started up fresh; a search within the CRT forum is probably your best bet.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

I saved my stand when discarding the 960 and it actually looks good with the 50w800b that replaced it. Simply used a little bit of grey duct tape to cover the open holes on the sides where the 960 slipped into and because the stand is so deep was able to place old stackable VHS drawers behind the set for the center speaker to rest on quite securely with enough room for ventilation.


----------



## videoguy57

So how does the 970 compare to the 960? What are the differences?


----------



## fbov

Brighter, lower-resolution image due to the lack of the super fine pitch CRT of the 960. Horizontal resolution (vertical lines) is the same as an SD Sony (we have both a 970 and an SD), but with 1080i scanning resolution (horizontal lines) vs. 480 for SD. 

Flat panels are also known as "fixed pixel" displays compared with the "flying spot" of a CRT. To get a 16:9 aspect ratio, flat panels need 16/9 or 78% more pixels horizontally than vertically. A CRT's horizontal resolution is fixed by the phosphor mask. Sony Trinitrons have a vertical mask. The "super fine" pitch mask had higher resolution, but it also had more support structure, so less illuminating area. You got a higher resolution image, but a darker image as well. 

I compared the two when I made my purchase, and went for the brighter screen. 

Have fun,
Frank


----------



## Floydage

According to this it sounds like you're stating some of that incorrectly:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FD_Trinitron/WEGA

[but hey I'm no expert on this subject - lol]

Anyhow keep in mind that the 960s came with and without anti-glare film (960 and 960N, resp.). The film has a significant affect on illumination such that many folks have peeled the film off their 960s.

Note that the 970 is newer. Based on MSRP and lack of SFP tube I got the impression is was a last-ditch cost-reduction effort to compete with the onslaught of flat panels. But being newer it should have a few extra bells and whistles plus later generation electronics (ex: tuner).


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Floydage said:


> According to this it sounds like you're stating some of that incorrectly:
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FD_Trinitron/WEGA
> 
> [but hey I'm no expert on this subject - lol]
> 
> Anyhow keep in mind that the 960s came with and without anti-glare film (960 and 960N, resp.). The film has a significant affect on illumination such that many folks have peeled the film off their 960s.
> 
> Note that the 970 is newer. Based on MSRP and lack of SFP tube I got the impression is was a last-ditch cost-reduction effort to compete with the onslaught of flat panels. But being newer it should have a few extra bells and whistles plus later generation electronics (ex: tuner).


Hi Floyd,

Keep in mind some of us had part of the film peeled off involuntarily  Though had to accept it, tried to watch the 960 with the lamps on toward the side as often as possible so there those spots were not seen.


----------



## Floydage

Yeah would have been nice to have the choice on the film as not everyone desires such a bright pic. On the other hand someone did the work for you (assuming they did it properly). I know some have picked up these sets and the film is all scratched up.

Of course there's the mysterious warning about removing the film in the safety section of the manual...


----------



## fbov

Floydage said:


> According to this it sounds like you're stating some of that incorrectly:...


Not sure whose post you're refering to, but if the prior post, your link is exactly correct. I didn't look up the actual 1440x1080i and 858x1080i numbers, but I did state the SD set was same mask, 858x480i. 


> Note that the 970 is newer. Based on MSRP and lack of SFP tube I got the impression is was a last-ditch cost-reduction effort to compete with the onslaught of flat panels. But being newer it should have a few extra bells and whistles plus later generation electronics (ex: tuner).


Your expectations are dashed. The 960 has lots more features, it's the real "king of the hill." Cost cutting won, but made for a very good value nonetheless. 

HAve fun,
Frank


----------



## Floydage

fbov said:


> The 960 has lots more features, it's the real "king of the hill." Cost cutting won, but made for a very good value nonetheless.


Shucks, too bad a little newer tech didn't help in that regard unless the features the 970 does have were updated. Probably has a little better ATSC tuner though (later generation chipsets). Yeah they did seem a good value in 'at the time' dollars.

Having been looking for a 960 yet seeing all the problems with some power supply chips and/or soldering, me wonders if the 970 is better in that regard?


----------



## Bracamonte

Floydage said:


> There was a Sony stand made specifically for this TV and the other Sony models with the same form factor. Looks pretty cool as it matches up exactly with the contour of the sides, color, etc.
> 
> There was a member that found an eBay seller with a good substitute, the Sony stand for one of the big 4:3 models. Seems it could actually hold more weight then the 960 stand (BTW keep in mind the 960 weighs about 200 lbs. - with the lightness of flat panels beware the capacity of newer stands). That seller had more available and I think they were new. Another member replied to him with his own substitute. It was either several pages back on this thread, maybe another 960 thread or the 970 thread, or a thread he started up fresh; a search within the CRT forum is probably your best bet.


Is this the one? If so, then I must have a stand like that. Its perfect for gaming!

https://public.dm2301.livefilestore...mXPKBl62Q/DCFC0136.JPG?psid=1&rdrts=106333558


----------



## barrelbelly

Bracamonte said:


> Is this the one? If so, then I must have a stand like that. Its perfect for gaming!
> 
> https://public.dm2301.livefilestore...mXPKBl62Q/DCFC0136.JPG?psid=1&rdrts=106333558


 Nope...Read about it here:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/64-di...1830410-what-name-crt-stand.html#post30435730


----------



## avdoc

I have a 34XBR960 I'm selling (wife doesn't want it around anymore). Does anyone have any thoughts on the market for this TV (ie, price, target audience, etc)? I'm not a gamer, but I know the low lag on CRT makes them something gamers look for. Not sure where to list. Thanks.


----------



## videoguy57

I'll buy it from you. Check your Private Messages.


----------



## iforsevilla

Hey guys, 

Been a while..... just checkin in to let you guys know that my 960 is still alive and kicking beautifully.

Today, it did its power issue again (will not turn on with the 6-7 blinking red light) so as before, I replaced the IC chip with a new one from the 5 pack I got long ago. I can't seem to get rid of this big old tv. Wife has been wanting a new bigger LED but I can't let go of this one. Told her when it fails. I thought it was gonna be today but unfortunately with the new IC chip in, its back and still shining. Oh well...

Later.

BTW, few years back I saw a used one of this in one of the electronic store and they wanted 3 bills I think.


----------



## Mike C23

Hey guys, what would be a good price to pay for a 960/970 in good condition nowadays? Thanks.


----------



## First XBR

I just sold mine to my cousin. I sold it to him for $100. He offered that so I took it.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

iforsevilla said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Been a while..... just checkin in to let you guys know that my 960 is still alive and kicking beautifully.
> 
> Today, it did its power issue again (will not turn on with the 6-7 blinking red light) so as before, I replaced the IC chip with a new one from the 5 pack I got long ago. I can't seem to get rid of this big old tv. Wife has been wanting a new bigger LED but I can't let go of this one. Told her when it fails. I thought it was gonna be today but unfortunately with the new IC chip in, its back and still shining. Oh well...
> 
> Later.
> 
> BTW, few years back I saw a used one of this in one of the electronic store and they wanted 3 bills I think.



Though happy with my new set, wish that was the case with mine. Not being a technician, the blinks just wentt on and on like that battery company's bunny.


----------



## RWetmore

Mike C23 said:


> Hey guys, what would be a good price to pay for a 960/970 in good condition nowadays? Thanks.



I'd say no more than a couple hundred and even that's probably too much.


----------



## Ian M. Gordon

RWetmore said:


> I'd say no more than a couple hundred and even that's probably too much.


Happy to share that an acquaintance of mine is giving me his. Wondering if you compare this set with a similar LED XBR 8 or 9, how this CRT compares? Does the unit have a built in calibration that is user friendly? And what is the best way to insure that the tube is performing as close to factory as possible?

My thanks.

Ian M. Gordon
CT Audio Society


----------



## Joseph Dubin

Ian M. Gordon said:


> Happy to share that an acquaintance of mine is giving me his. Wondering if you compare this set with a similar LED XBR 8 or 9, how this CRT compares? Does the unit have a built in calibration that is user friendly? And what is the best way to insure that the tube is performing as close to factory as possible?
> 
> My thanks.
> 
> Ian M. Gordon
> CT Audio Society


Hi Ian,

I recently had to replace my 960 and purchased the Sony KDL 50w800b. 

I have an entry level Samsung 37 inch LED in our den which was temporarily moved to the living room while waiting for the 800b to be delivered and though it provided a beautiful, colorful picture and the small print like one sees on QVC was crisp without cross feed, the detail still lacked a bit and overall the picture did not have the "punch" of the 960, no matter how much one did the tweaking. So even though you will be getting what will probably be at least ten years old, you also stand a good chance of getting a set that is going to make you much happier with the picture quality. Do suggest you go to the thread regarding the service settings and how to use them for better tweaking because the user settings are very general.

However, the picture on the mid level 800b is simply gorgeous and loses none of the detail going from 34 to 50 inches. Deep black, perfect color saturation, proper balance between picture and contrast with many advanced user settings that enable one to tweak the adjustments for a more proper picture. The picture looks natural (not like looking through a silk screen) and there is the illusion of some depth that CRTs provided unlike so many flat screens which make objects appear all on top of each other. My main concern was the larger screen bringing out the limitations of my vast DVD and DVD-R collection that the smaller 34 inch 960 and great CRT technology was able to mask. That was not the case. The DVDs look terrific and the only difference with my own recordings is the picture being a bit more softer than the original 1080i source from what was discernerable on the 960 (obviously being down converted to 480i and then up converted back to 1080p). 

So though I miss the 960 very much, I will have to admit that ten years later I am finding some LEDs have finally caught up and surpassed it. But one has to look for it, even if the pictures all look alike in the store. Same with the reviews. It's because unlike others, we will be comparing them to the 960, which was such a great set utilizing the best of CRT technology that stood the test of time over the years. I saw enough with the less expensive Samsung - which was also a fair test to go by being one would not be distracted by the impact of the screen size being much larger - which would not have left me satisfied if it was a replacement for the 960. Even the DVD-Rs did not look as good as they did on the 960. But the Sony 800b 50 inch has me very happy in all respects. 

This is not meant as an endorsement for a certain brand or model as it is to let you know there are no doubt many LEDs one can be happy with as well as the 960, but that there are many that the 960 can still wipe away. Enjoy your new CRT.

Joe


----------



## Floydage

Several of the 960 owners are now sold on the Panny plasmas, appear to be higher-end models though. Claim as good if not better in some criteria than the 960.

Sony a good brand though, I notice they command a premium price to most of the other stuff. I do like the sound of four colors though via the Sharp Quattrons; I noticed an ad recently of an OLED stating it has four colors.


----------



## RWetmore

Ian M. Gordon said:


> Happy to share that an acquaintance of mine is giving me his. Wondering if you compare this set with a similar LED XBR 8 or 9, how this CRT compares? Does the unit have a built in calibration that is user friendly? And what is the best way to insure that the tube is performing as close to factory as possible?


 
Unfortunately, the TV does not have a built in calibration that is user friendly. It all has to be done in the service menu. I'd say the best way to getting it to perform as best as possible is to have Chad B. calibrate it, because he (at least used to) also do any required magnet work to calibrate convergence.


----------



## videoguy57

I wish someone nearby had an XBR960n for sale.


----------



## DSperber

GeneraLight said:


> I wish someone nearby had an XBR960n for sale.


Where is "nearby"?? Where are you?


----------



## videoguy57

DSperber said:


> Where is "nearby"?? Where are you?


Columbus, Ohio.


----------



## DSperber

GeneraLight said:


> Columbus, Ohio.


Well, that makes driving over to pick up my own 960 a bit of an issue (I'm in LA).

Nevertheless, if you're willing to pay for shipping, my set is for sale. Calibrated by D-Nice in May 2013. I've had it new since 2004.


----------



## Floydage

GeneraLight said:


> I wish someone nearby had an XBR960n for sale.


That's a premium and top dog-calibrated set DSperber has if you can afford the shipping.

Also check the CRT classifieds on this here AVS. I assume you check your local Craigslist, etc.


----------



## videoguy57

DSperber said:


> Well, that makes driving over to pick up my own 960 a bit of an issue (I'm in LA).
> 
> Nevertheless, if you're willing to pay for shipping, my set is for sale. Calibrated by D-Nice in May 2013. I've had it new since 2004.


How much will shipping cost? My only fear is that the TV may get dropped/damaged during shipping.


----------



## DSperber

GeneraLight said:


> How much will shipping cost? My only fear is that the TV may get dropped/damaged during shipping.


No idea. But it weighs 200 lbs. not counting the wood crating and bracing, styrofoam blocks, moving blankets, etc., which it obviously needs to be packed in for safe shipping.

I had an identically sized Sampo 34" HDTV that I purchased new in 2001 and had delivered to me in Dallas. It arrived in a crate by truck in perfect condition, and was de-crated outside and then carried up the steps to my 2nd floor apartment by several VERY STRONG TRUCKERS, and placed on the credenza/stand that awaited it. Remarkably, after shipping across the country (from Sampo in LA) it was still in perfect condition when I plugged it in.

When I moved back to LA from Dallas in 2002, the movers again manually carried it down the steps, wrapped it in shipping blankets, and somehow just put it on the truck secured securely (obviously) for shipping back across the country to LA. Amazingly again it arrived in one piece and with no damage at all. I used that set until 2004 when its picture tube died, and I replaced it with the Sony 34XBR960 that we're now discussing.

I'd trust professional packers/movers to ship heavy items like this TV, which they'll insure against damage if they do the packing. I know, we're talking about an irreplaceable TV but there's obviously no other way to get it across the country (when it was new, or now) except to crate and pack it sufficiently and then send it in a truck, and keep your fingers crossed. Sure, insurance will replace your costs, but there's no way to actually replace the TV itself.

Look, I've had an experience where a 50" Panasonic plasma set was FEDEX'd from a Sears in Massachusetts to Long Island, and arrived with the screen just shattered like a spider web. Did the screen crack when my friend picked it up in MA from Sears and put it in his van and drove over to FEDEX? Did it crack while still at Sears? Did it crack when FEDEX delivered it in NY? Don't know, but thankfully I had insured it with FEDEX who accepted it for shipping (assuming of course it was in perfect condition at that moment), so my claim was with them and they paid in full.

I then went to Sears in NY to buy a replacement. Drove there with a friend's van, picked up the set and drove home. Opened up the carton and removed the TV, and the astonishingly the screen was once again shattered like a spider web!! So, where did the damage occur this time? Who knows? But I brought it right back to Sears, and they replaced it with another one (which thankfully they had in the store), and this time we opened the carton to double-check that the screen on this one was in good condition, and it was. We then closed the carton, carefully loaded it in the van and drove it home. And this time, the set had thankfully survived the trip, and the screen was perfect.

Of course plasma TV's are supposed to be shipped "upright/vertical", and not lying down horizontally. So, does everybody involved in shipping one of these flatscreens in a carton know that? Who knows? But in the case of a 200 lb. XBR960, there's really no chance of it being manhandled incorrectly, since it's a "solid crate" that you're just going handle as a big heavy box, not a flatscreen crate that has to be kept upright on its thin edge.

Bottom line: there's no guarantee it will make it, but if adequately crated I'd say chances are much better that it will arrive in perfect condition than if you were to ship an 80" flatscreen TV across the country.

If you're interested in pursuing this, PM me and I'll investigate having a local large volume Sony TV and electronics dealer handle the packing and shipping arrangements, and what it might cost.


----------



## Ian M. Gordon

*XBR follow up*

My thanks to Joseph and all. You had mentioned Chad who would recalibrate and test the set. Is this a person or a software that connects to the tv and a computer? Do such programs exist that can tap into the tv's roms and control via PC? Linearity of both picture and audio are very important to me and although Sony always provides video filters and options, it is the direct connect philosophy that I would like to maximize. 

Ian M. Gordon
CT Audio Society


----------



## Floydage

GeneraLight said:


> How much will shipping cost? My only fear is that the TV may get dropped/damaged during shipping.


Try looking at some eBay CRT TVs of this weight, if the seller will ship they'll have a shipping calculator in the ad. I saw one not long ago for some similarly-weighted speakers (Frazier Texan) and it certainly wasn't cheap - more than the price of the speakers.

Ironically that's somewhat how I acquired my Panny 34" HD CRT TV for free - a friend worked for a Kenwood car audio distributor that shipped the TV around for trade shows up until the point that it made more sense to do that with a flat panel (heck these days they could buy a 34" at each location and still save money vs. shipping that monster). It has a crack in its case on one side that I suspect contributed to a slight color blob corner when a white screen, but otherwise it still works fine. Pretty tough TVs.


----------



## GCAVS

Most likely the alignment will be off after shipping a CRT cross country - but it would not matter anyway. The come out the factory aligned facing North in Mexicali Mexico (just South and over the border from Palm Springs, CA). As thus, alignment out of the box is better in Southern California than further away because any CRTs, need to be aligned facing the exact direction they are viewed.

Aligning a unit in LA and using it in Columbus Ohio will have a different magnetic orientation and throw it off (Remember, this is why the CRTs have magnets on them - something many have forgotten now with LCD & Plasma). 

http://maps.ngdc.noaa.gov/viewers/historical_declination/

The good news is ChadB is in Ohio and thus not that far away that he could get it back in top alignment.

I realize some think that their LED/LCD has a better picture than this, but the truth is LCD's cannot, as they cannot do true black. However, most people really will not notice it. 

The downside is this unit cannot do true 1920x1080 (and will not take a 1920x1080p or 24fps input) so it does not have true 1:1. 

Anyone looking for one of these beasts can one by simply googling the phrase: Sony 34xbr960N OR 34xbr960 site:craigslist.org


----------



## Floydage

Geomagnetic correction circuitry built-in... My Panny has a user sub-menu for this too, maybe a fine tune, and it degausses the set when exiting this function.
Back in '93 I bought an RCA and it had a polarity switch on the back for this; the manual days.


----------



## GCAVS

Floydage said:


> Geomagnetic correction circuitry built-in... My Panny has a user sub-menu for this too, maybe a fine tune, and it degausses the set when exiting this function.
> Back in '93 I bought an RCA and it had a polarity switch on the back for this; the manual days.


Yes, and TV's as supposedly calibrated prior to leaving the factory. But just as anyone who has had one of these professionally calibrated (and had a professional like ChadB move the magnets as the manual adjustments can only do so much on a CRT), it might correct some of the problem, but does not fine tune it.


----------



## Floydage

It's always worked for me as far as the compass position part of your discussion. Now overall geometry, yeah that's always a problem with CRT TVs, especially the bigger and/or wider ones.


----------



## Ian M. Gordon

*Help for scratches*

Unfortunately, as happy as I am to have this set in near mint condition. There was an accident in moving it and 1/3rd of the front glass has suffered deep scratches to the glass. The reason I was interested in this tv was the technology, but knowing Sony, they thought of everything so I am looking for the most cost effective way to repair the scratches if I can or whether there are other methods that will not cost a fortune. I am upset but still very happy to own the set. I was told that it takes a little longer now to warm up and I tested it briefly, perhaps I saw a tiny left hand corner distortion of the signal but it was on for only a short time. Please help. 

Best and thanks:

Ian M. Gordon
CT Audio Society


----------



## JohnGZ28

If the scratches are deep there is not much you can do without risk of making the situation worse. That said if the set has the anti glare coating and you are willing to remove if things don't work out you can try some polishing compound that you get in headlight restoration kits at an auto store. You could also try a super fine grit sandpaper. With either method you may wind up with splotches,


----------



## Floydage

If you're lucky it's just the film. There's plenty of posts and maybe even a thread devoted to removing the film.
I recall reading something on trying to repair glass scratches long ago, seems the consensus was better to leave it alone as it did more damage than good (a thin line is better than a splotch). Maybe a filler.


----------



## SwiftSweeper

Hi guys and gals 

NOTE: If you have already read my post in "You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggestions" thread, please disregard this post. Sorry, I did not realize that there is now a thread dedicated to these types of issues before I posted here. I will keep an eye on both threads, so either thread works for me.

I has been a sad day for me. After performing like a champion for almost a decade, my xbr 960 seems to finally kick the bucket. Even though, I moved on to Panasonic ZT60 plasma as my primary display 2 years ago, I am still fond of my xbr 960 and have many great memories watching movies and tv shows and playing video games on the xbr 960. 

Here is the description of the problem. The tv tries to power itself on immediately after I plug it into power without me needing to press power button on the remote or the tv itself. Sometimes, I hear the normal degaussing sound and the normal click sound on the power up. Other times, it is just the same click sound without the degaussing sound.

After the tv tries to power up, the front red light blinks 6 times, pauses, blinks 7 times, pauses again, blinks 7 times again, and continues the cylcle of pausing and blinking 7 times indefinitely. Except for the flashing light, the tv looks dead otherwise. After the tv is plugged in into power, if I press the power button on the remote, I hear the click sound again, but nothing else is happening.

To fix the tv, I tried unplugging it from power for as long as several hours and then pluging it back into power. It tried this process multiple times. I also tried plugging the tv into power strip and directly into a wall power outlet. I even tried different power outlets. Nothing has worked.  

From my Google search, I found that 6 blinking red lights seem to indicate Power Supply issue, and 7 blinking red lights seem to indicate Horizontal Deflection issue. Both issues seem to require part(s) replacement and service by a qualified technician. From my online research, it is around $200 - $300 for part(s) + labor to fix each issue. 

As much as I like this tv, I am not willing to pay that much or go through trouble of ordering parts myself, opening up the tv, and messing with dangerous voltages to fix it.

I am also confused why I am getting both 6 blinking red lights (initially) and 7 blinking red lights (thereafter). Perhaps, the issue is not Power Supply or/and Horizontal Deflection, but something else is broken. 

Is there anything else that I can try to fix the tv, or do I just have to replace it at this point?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## fullmetal22

Looking for one of these guys. Anyone got one in good working order they no longer wabt? I'm in the savanna Georgia area.


----------



## Joseph Dubin

SwiftSweeper said:


> Hi guys and gals
> 
> NOTE: If you have already read my post in "You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggestions" thread, please disregard this post. Sorry, I did not realize that there is now a thread dedicated to these types of issues before I posted here. I will keep an eye on both threads, so either thread works for me.
> 
> I has been a sad day for me. After performing like a champion for almost a decade, my xbr 960 seems to finally kick the bucket. Even though, I moved on to Panasonic ZT60 plasma as my primary display 2 years ago, I am still fond of my xbr 960 and have many great memories watching movies and tv shows and playing video games on the xbr 960.
> 
> Here is the description of the problem. The tv tries to power itself on immediately after I plug it into power without me needing to press power button on the remote or the tv itself. Sometimes, I hear the normal degaussing sound and the normal click sound on the power up. Other times, it is just the same click sound without the degaussing sound.
> 
> After the tv tries to power up, the front red light blinks 6 times, pauses, blinks 7 times, pauses again, blinks 7 times again, and continues the cylcle of pausing and blinking 7 times indefinitely. Except for the flashing light, the tv looks dead otherwise. After the tv is plugged in into power, if I press the power button on the remote, I hear the click sound again, but nothing else is happening.
> 
> To fix the tv, I tried unplugging it from power for as long as several hours and then pluging it back into power. It tried this process multiple times. I also tried plugging the tv into power strip and directly into a wall power outlet. I even tried different power outlets. Nothing has worked.
> 
> From my Google search, I found that 6 blinking red lights seem to indicate Power Supply issue, and 7 blinking red lights seem to indicate Horizontal Deflection issue. Both issues seem to require part(s) replacement and service by a qualified technician. From my online research, it is around $200 - $300 for part(s) + labor to fix each issue.
> 
> As much as I like this tv, I am not willing to pay that much or go through trouble of ordering parts myself, opening up the tv, and messing with dangerous voltages to fix it.
> 
> I am also confused why I am getting both 6 blinking red lights (initially) and 7 blinking red lights (thereafter). Perhaps, the issue is not Power Supply or/and Horizontal Deflection, but something else is broken.
> 
> Is there anything else that I can try to fix the tv, or do I just have to replace it at this point?
> 
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


Hi Swift,

Unfortunately seems like the same exact symptoms we had as our 960 bit the dust. Would turn the set on and off and once in a while it would come on and would turn on again if turning off for a minute or so. Long spells off and the same problem again. Most of the time would not hear the deffuser.


----------



## Floydage

fullmetal22 said:


> Looking for one of these guys. Anyone got one in good working order they no longer wabt? I'm in the savanna Georgia area.


There's also a classified section under FORUMS with a CRT category. I suspect you've looked on your local Craigslist, but I wouldn't be too specific with keywords there as you'll probably miss some (I just use Sony TV although a lot to look at).


----------



## SwiftSweeper

Joseph Dubin said:


> Hi Swift,
> 
> Unfortunately seems like the same exact symptoms we had as our 960 bit the dust. Would turn the set on and off and once in a while it would come on and would turn on again if turning off for a minute or so. Long spells off and the same problem again. Most of the time would not hear the deffuser.


Hi Joseph,

It has been a long time. I remember you as a big fan of xbr 960 when I was posting on this board/thread back in 2006, so I am sorry to hear about your xbr 960. My XBR 960 only turns on if I leave it unplugged overnight. The fix seems to require opening the tv and replacing one or more components on the board. I can either fix it myself or pay $200 - $300 to a professional to do it for me. If I go with a professional, I will also have to lug the tv to a repair shop and back. DIY fix seems like a hassle as well and can be dangerous because there are high voltages present in the tv. 

I used this tv from 2006 to 2013 daily, and it holds a sentimental value for me, but I do not think that it is practical to fix it at this point. In the end, it gave me many years of great service, but it is time to let it go.

I am wondering if I can just give it away on Craigslist or something.

Do you still have your xbr 960? 

How did you get rid of it if you do not?


----------



## Joseph Dubin

SwiftSweeper said:


> Hi Joseph,
> 
> It has been a long time. I remember you as a big fan of xbr 960 when I was posting on this board/thread back in 2006, so I am sorry to hear about your xbr 960. My XBR 960 only turns on if I leave it unplugged overnight. The fix seems to require opening the tv and replacing one or more components on the board. I can either fix it myself or pay $200 - $300 to a professional to do it for me. If I go with a professional, I will also have to lug the tv to a repair shop and back. DIY fix seems like a hassle as well and can be dangerous because there are high voltages present in the tv.
> 
> I used this tv from 2006 to 2013 daily, and it holds a sentimental value for me, but I do not think that it is practical to fix it at this point. In the end, it gave me many years of great service, but it is time to let it go.
> 
> I am wondering if I can just give it away on Craigslist or something.
> 
> Do you still have your xbr 960?
> 
> How did you get rid of it if you do not?


Hi Swift,

How have you been, buddy. Yes, I remember our conversations well.

I was very upset having to say goodbye to the 960. The entire weekend I tried unplugging, turning on and off consistently, etc., hoping something would just click itself back into place. 

Had to get rid of it but saved the stand for the new KDL 800b50w and also the remote which was a godsend because it has direct function buttons that the new one does not.

Fortunately, its easier to have the set simply drop off the stand thanks to the law of gravity. Then had it angled up against the sofa while slipping a flat dolly underneath it to flop onto and rolled it to the elevator to the basement. Only problem was weight of the set caused the back dolly wheels to get wedged in the slit between the elevator cab and the floor so had to push it to the garbage area. Fortunately gravel floor made that easy without dolly.

Miss the 960 but am happy with this new set, which is a mid level unit and since it was almost a year old when purchased, saved about $500 or $600 on it. But it took a decade for the flat screens to catch up to us and the less expensive models still not a match.

Ciao old buddy


----------



## GlenC

It's sad, but the value has gone from the old units.... Moving, I had to trash 4 CRT projectors and leave my Mits 65813 in the house.... My new Calibrated Vizio 70" is ... Awesome!!! ☺ 

- Glen -


----------



## SwiftSweeper

Joseph Dubin said:


> Hi Swift,
> 
> How have you been, buddy. Yes, I remember our conversations well.
> 
> I was very upset having to say goodbye to the 960. The entire weekend I tried unplugging, turning on and off consistently, etc., hoping something would just click itself back into place.
> 
> Had to get rid of it but saved the stand for the new KDL 800b50w and also the remote which was a godsend because it has direct function buttons that the new one does not.
> 
> Fortunately, its easier to have the set simply drop off the stand thanks to the law of gravity. Then had it angled up against the sofa while slipping a flat dolly underneath it to flop onto and rolled it to the elevator to the basement. Only problem was weight of the set caused the back dolly wheels to get wedged in the slit between the elevator cab and the floor so had to push it to the garbage area. Fortunately gravel floor made that easy without dolly.
> 
> Miss the 960 but am happy with this new set, which is a mid level unit and since it was almost a year old when purchased, saved about $500 or $600 on it. But it took a decade for the flat screens to catch up to us and the less expensive models still not a match.
> 
> Ciao old buddy


XBR 960 was a beast in its prime... the reference set.  I remember calling Best Buys in hopeless effort to score one NIB. Nowadays, many would not take it even I gave it away for free.

I picked up Panasonic ZT60, which was one of the last great plasmas. I guess that I have a thing for dead technology . The picture quality on ZT60 is excellent, but it is as heavy as XBR960 and fragile. 

I am glad that you are liking your new set. It will certainly be much easier to get rid of it when time comes.


----------



## SwiftSweeper

GlenC said:


> It's sad, but the value has gone from the old units.... Moving, I had to trash 4 CRT projectors and leave my Mits 65813 in the house.... My new Calibrated Vizio 70" is ... Awesome!!! ☺
> 
> - Glen -


Yep, these units are pain to move. I love my 65 inch Panasonic ZT60 plasma, but I kind of regret buying it now because I will be moving soon, and it is just too big, heavy, and fragile to move. I called around and movers want $1200 - $1500 just to move it! Plus, I will be moving again within 2 years, so another $1200 - $1500 to move it! And, there is always a risk of damaging the tv during the move. 

I also have XBR 960 and XBR 970, which I am not sure what to do with at this point.

Perhaps, I should open a museum of dead tv technology.


----------



## JA Fant

From above-
Fullmetal22, keep seeking both Craigslist & eBay for a 960. They pop up there all of the time.


----------



## XBR_960

Hi everyone, I bought the 30 inch model of this, the "KD-30XS955" off of Craigslist, it looks like the previous owner kept it in his garage, and the back looks like it was exposed to a lot of sun, the glass front is flawless, but there was a lot of dust and spider webs inside. Everything is great except for three minor problems. Hopefully some of you experienced owners can point me in the right direction here. 

Current issues;

1. The geometry is ok except for the very bottom, the TV looks like this 
++++++++
++++++++
++++++++
//////////////


----------



## blue_z

XBR_960 said:


> 1. The geometry is ok except for the very bottom, the TV looks like this
> ++++++++
> ++++++++
> ++++++++
> //////////////


----------



## RWetmore

XBR_960 said:


> 1. The geometry is ok except for the very bottom, the TV looks like this
> ++++++++
> ++++++++
> ++++++++
> //////////////


----------



## magneto67

Hi Everyone,

I am truly sorry to bother you but I had a couple quick questions and hoping someone will see this in the next 6 hours...


I have a chance to pick up the Kd-34xbr960 but it's hours away while I'm traveling for work so only have one shot at this. I have reading this thread for the past couple hours trying to get as much information as possible, but some of it is way over my head.

Person is asking $200.00 for it and power supply was already replaced on it from what I was told.

I plan on using this system for my classic video games (NES to PS2) with a a classic audio receiver (for additional connections).

Questions are:

1. What are some things I should look out for when inspecting it that would make it a no go?
2. Is this TV still worth $200.00 in today's technology market?
3. What kind of longevity can I still get out of a TV like this and what would I be looking at cost wise to make it good as new (restore / calibrate)
4. All posts say PS2 XBOX will look amazing, but what about Nintendo / Super Nintendo resolutions?
4. Will the receiver used in conjunction with the TV cause any lag input for gaming? (I know the TV won't) 
5. Can you still find the matching stands for these? 
6. Is there anything else I need to know before quite literally sprinting at something due to last minute opportunity?


Thank you ever so much for anyone who can assist me and thank you for this thread!!!  


Sincerely.


----------



## SAVETHEXBR960

Being a huge fan of the 960 it pains me to say that they're not worth $200, unless virtually unused. The dreaded blinking light issue, and people dropping them left and right makes finding a good example extremely difficult. Years ago I bought a mint one in a ritzy part of town, but the guy dropped it on his front steps, scratching the screen. Luckily I was able to remove the anti-reflective coating and restored it to perfection. Make sure to check the geometry and screen uniformity before even considering buying it. Also see how long it takes to start up, any significant delays could be bad news. 

Have you thought about getting a Sony KV-34HS420? I've gotten numerous examples for free. Of course they're not as good as the SFP, but properly set up they're pretty darn good. Also they are rather plentiful, so if it breaks just grab parts from another or simply another unit. 

As a side note, if anybody needs help removing the anti-reflective coating feel free to message me. I've done it numerous times, and in my mind it actually improves the already fantastic picture.


----------



## Bracamonte

I'm having an issue with my PS4 on the 960 today. Whenever I turned it on, there is no display and the sound flickers for half a second. It was working fine before(last I remember, it was last week), but it was today that the problem started. I though it was an issue with the PS4, but when I tried it on another TV, it works. I have it plugged to a switcher, that connects with my Directv box and Xbox 360, which have no problems. I've tried connecting directly to the TV, but still have the same problem.

Update: It turns out that the culprit was the HDCP settings. Though video apps requires it to be enabled. What exactly is HDCP and are there any settings to it on the 960?

BTW, does anyone know any good picture and audio settings for this TV? I did a factory reset in a attempt to fix the problem and now both the picture and audio quality are not good as it was before the reset.


----------



## GCAVS

Bracamonte said:


> I'm having an issue with my PS4 on the 960 today. Whenever I turned it on, there is no display and the sound flickers for half a second. It was working fine before(last I remember, it was last week), but it was today that the problem started. I though it was an issue with the PS4, but when I tried it on another TV, it works. I have it plugged to a switcher, that connects with my Directv box and Xbox 360, which have no problems. I've tried connecting directly to the TV, but still have the same problem.
> 
> Update: It turns out that the culprit was the HDCP settings. Though video apps requires it to be enabled. What exactly is HDCP and are there any settings to it on the 960?
> 
> BTW, does anyone know any good picture and audio settings for this TV? I did a factory reset in a attempt to fix the problem and now both the picture and audio quality are not good as it was before the reset.


Did you reset in the Service Menu or the the regular settings menu?


----------



## Bracamonte

I did the reset by holding down the reset button on the remote and then push the power button on the TV.


----------



## hidesertforester

Just a note to say my KD-34XBR960 is now 10 years old (September 2005 build date) and still going strong. VERY occasionally I get the blinking light but usually holding the 'on' button down gets past it. If not, disconnecting power for a few seconds does the trick. It's had that behavior since the beginning of my ownership.


----------



## Kool-aid23

SAVETHEXBR960 said:


> Being a huge fan of the 960 it pains me to say that they're not worth $200, unless virtually unused. The dreaded blinking light issue, and people dropping them left and right makes finding a good example extremely difficult. Years ago I bought a mint one in a ritzy part of town, but the guy dropped it on his front steps, scratching the screen. Luckily I was able to remove the anti-reflective coating and restored it to perfection. Make sure to check the geometry and screen uniformity before even considering buying it. Also see how long it takes to start up, any significant delays could be bad news.
> 
> Have you thought about getting a Sony KV-34HS420? I've gotten numerous examples for free. Of course they're not as good as the SFP, but properly set up they're pretty darn good. Also they are rather plentiful, so if it breaks just grab parts from another or simply another unit.
> 
> As a side note, if anybody needs help removing the anti-reflective coating feel free to message me. I've done it numerous times, and in my mind it actually improves the already fantastic picture.


PM sent!


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## JA Fant

Good to read everyone is still enjoying this reference set


----------



## soto hd

Just wanted to announce my wife made me throw mine out. Bought it in 2007 and replaced the chips twice (when tv doesn't turn on). I miss the quality but I do enjoy a bigger screen (replaced it with a 55")....

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


----------



## videoguy57

Does the XBR960 display 480p content at 480p? Or does it upscale it?

I'm only going to be playing 480p (ED) content from my Wii and GameCube. I'm just wanting an HD CRT so I can play N64, GameCube and Wii games in native 480p, something an SD CRT cannot do.

Also, is there any input lag at 480p on the XBR960?


----------



## soto hd

It does 480p and you double check by pressing the display button 

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk


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## captainsolo

I adore my 960 purchased used locally a few months ago...that is after I spent ages and ages tinkering with Geometry hell in the Service menu. Eventually I had to live with a tiny sliver off of the left and right for overscan, and a tiny curving outward on the upper corners for anything 4:3 or 1.66. 
What would anyone recommend for calibrating? I used the AVS patterns, my old DVE DVD, DVE LD for one of the AV inputs for my LDs but no matter what I can't seem to get the contrast and brightness settings down. I find myself continually tweaking with every single movie, some it's just right, others get lost in darkness where they shouldn't be.
Also, is there any way to adjust the zoom modes? I'd love to be able to have a simple non cropped zoom for non-anamorphic DVD. It works fine when the source isn't HD or on the other AV SD inputs such as running LD.
My biggest problem is the phosphor motion trails. They're big, huge and depending on how much darkness is in the image and how long something is stationary before moving, downright distracting. They drive me nuts. has anyone ever at least been able to lessen these? They seem to not be as prevalent on the SD inputs but they are still there.

Now I need some kind of scaler. Every inherent problem in both LDs and my player are supremely magnified on this. Forget classic gaming too, the exact same thing happens. Good thing I held onto my slightly older Sony 480i 4:3 tube...only problem is I no longer have a stand to run that too because of this huge wonderful beast.


----------



## Bracamonte

Now there's a new problem I've been having with my 960 since late september. Whenever the screen is dark, the screen seems to 'shrink' and has a purplish hue, and goes back to normal size when its bright. The symptom is that there are two black vertical bars on the sides. Magnetic issue or capacitor wear? I had this TV for nearly 2 years and never had this issue until now.


----------



## videoguy57

Is the Super-Fine Pitch a post-processing effect? I ask because fancy post-processing effects creates input lag for video games, and I don't want SFP if it'll create display/input lag.


----------



## captainsolo

Man, most SD looks pretty horrible on this. After much hair pulling I finally managed to make LD somewhat presentable on composite and via my DMR-es25 for comb filtering but everything else-particularly older games with less impressive video i.e. Nintendo systems look hideous. 
PS2 is okay running component, Genesis is unwatchable as is Gamecube/N64. I don't see how some claim this as a great gaming TV. For PS3 and higher, absolutely. Everything else, hell no.


----------



## LiquidSnake

captainsolo said:


> I don't see how some claim this as a great gaming TV. For PS3 and higher, absolutely. Everything else, hell no.


Easy, it's very low in latency (even with its processing) and it has excellent colours. It won't do interlaced games quite the same as you are expecting though. If that was your biggest gaming concern you really should have gotten a CRT that does not do progressive at all.

These two Sony Trinitron CRTs are different. Can you see how? Which one do you prefer?

Edit: not sure if the image is showing both TVs, it should be animated. Here's a link to it.


----------



## captainsolo

Ah! Good thing I still have my old 4:3 480i set!

Can anyone tell me what the heck the custom drc presets are?


----------



## videoguy57

I want the XBR960 for 480p (Enhanced Definition) Wii and GameCube games. 

All the NES, SNES, etc. that only do 480i I'll use on my SD Sony CRT with component inputs.

No one ever answered my question though. Is the Super-Fine Pitch a post-processing effect and does it add input lag to video games?


----------



## hoffo

GeneraLight said:


> No one ever answered my question though. Is the Super-Fine Pitch a post-processing effect and does it add input lag to video games?


No it's not an effect. It's a tighter aperture grille (finer pitch) which means higher resolution vs a non SFP set. That's why it's among the most sought after HD CRTs.


----------



## LiquidSnake

Super fine pitch is exactly as it says, a very high density of the aperture grille used to display your image. All of the high definition CRTs still have some lag but it is not due to post processing, and the tech of CRT mitigates this lag _a great deal_, you are probably only talking about a few ms of lag with these CRTs so it's very usable still. captainsolo was just noticing the difference in the way the interlaced tubes display, and the way that the HiScan & Super Fine Pitch tubes display. They are still superb tubes, but the way that they scan the image across the tube is different, and this affects the look of broadcasts that were designed to always be interlaced at a lower resolution. You can still tweak and manage a decent enough image from it when using these kinds of tubes, but it will never look quite the same. Old video games like the Super Nintendo game I linked to, are much lower in resolution than movies and TV, so they can look vastly different.


----------



## captainsolo

Should I just leave DRC alone on custom preset 1 (1,25) for all SD 480i sources? I've tried the Interlaced, Progressive, CineMotion and think just leaving it on Interlaced for LD composite is best.


----------



## videoguy57

How do I remove the anti-glare coating on the XBR960?



LiquidSnake said:


> Easy, it's very low in latency (even with its processing) and it has excellent colours. It won't do interlaced games quite the same as you are expecting though. If that was your biggest gaming concern you really should have gotten a CRT that does not do progressive at all.
> 
> These two Sony Trinitron CRTs are different. Can you see how? Which one do you prefer?
> 
> Edit: not sure if the image is showing both TVs, it should be animated. Here's a link to it.


Yeah, the 960 is only meant for games being played at 480p (Wii, GameCube, N64 on Wii VC) and above (PS3, XBox 360, etc). For 480i and 240p (NES, SNES, N64, PS1, etc.) you're better off with a 4:3 SD CRT that only does 480i and 240p.


----------



## JA Fant

I wish that I had this set back in the 80's when I was playing video games


----------



## Shaocaholica

I just picked up a XBR960 locally. Took a chance on it even though it had some visual defects which I'm hoping can be fixed or reduced. The upper left and bottom right corners are color shifted. If I recall, its purple in the upper left and green in the bottom right. When I lift the TV just a few inches on either side the color shift changes and sometimes seems to go away. I made sure I wasn't close to any big magnets but the TV isn't in its final place yet so I have yet to test there.

So is this something that can be fixed?

Also, it didn't come with the original remote. I take it I need the original remote to fiddle in the service menus instead of the front panel buttons.


----------



## JohnGZ28

Shaocaholica said:


> I just picked up a XBR960 locally. Took a chance on it even though it had some visual defects which I'm hoping can be fixed or reduced. The upper left and bottom right corners are color shifted. If I recall, its purple in the upper left and green in the bottom right. When I lift the TV just a few inches on either side the color shift changes and sometimes seems to go away. I made sure I wasn't close to any big magnets but the TV isn't in its final place yet so I have yet to test there.
> 
> So is this something that can be fixed?
> 
> Also, it didn't come with the original remote. I take it I need the original remote to fiddle in the service menus instead of the front panel buttons.


Do you know if the previous owner had it near any big magnets?

You will need a remote to navigate the service menu. Just about any Sony remote should do the trick.


----------



## Shaocaholica

JohnGZ28 said:


> Do you know if the previous owner had it near any big magnets?


No idea. Didn't even buy from the previous owner, had to go through another person.


----------



## Shaocaholica

So if I'm looking at used XBR960s locally, what should I look for as far as screen defects? What kinds of issues are reasonably fixable and what aren't?


----------



## Shaocaholica

Is the XBR960/970 supposed to have any kind of feet on the bottom? I looked under a XBR960 and all I saw was plastic at the same depth. No pieces sticking out that looked like feet of any kind. Seems like it would slide around a lot on a smooth surface? I know its heavy but wouldn't it be dangerous if bumped off its perch?


----------



## Shaocaholica

Shaocaholica said:


> I just picked up a XBR960 locally. Took a chance on it even though it had some visual defects which I'm hoping can be fixed or reduced. The upper left and bottom right corners are color shifted. If I recall, its purple in the upper left and green in the bottom right. When I lift the TV just a few inches on either side the color shift changes and sometimes seems to go away. I made sure I wasn't close to any big magnets but the TV isn't in its final place yet so I have yet to test there.
> 
> So is this something that can be fixed?
> 
> Also, it didn't come with the original remote. I take it I need the original remote to fiddle in the service menus instead of the front panel buttons.


Well that was short lived. Took it home, powered it on and the discolored corners were gone. Just some slight geometry and convergence adjustments needed.


----------



## Floydage

Shaocaholica said:


> Well that was short lived. Took it home, powered it on and the discolored corners were gone. Just some slight geometry and convergence adjustments needed.


Might be the power-on auto-degauss did the trick for ya, unless it's now positioned in a more favorable compass orientation or less e-mag interference. When you looked at it at the seller's locale had they just moved it?

There were matching OEM stands for these TVs, so that could explain the feet.


----------



## Shaocaholica

Floydage said:


> Might be the power-on auto-degauss did the trick for ya, unless it's now positioned in a more favorable compass orientation or less e-mag interference. When you looked at it at the seller's locale had they just moved it?
> 
> There were matching OEM stands for these TVs, so that could explain the feet.


No idea what the seller was doing with it. It was in a garage and I'm assuming it had been stored for some time. It was on the concrete floor next to some washers and dryers. I tried moving it away from those which have motors but it didn't affect the colored corners although I didn't have much time or patience to troubleshoot on site. $80 well spent but a gamble.


----------



## Mathesar

Shaocaholica said:


> Is the XBR960/970 supposed to have any kind of feet on the bottom? I looked under a XBR960 and all I saw was plastic at the same depth. No pieces sticking out that looked like feet of any kind. Seems like it would slide around a lot on a smooth surface? I know its heavy but wouldn't it be dangerous if bumped off its perch?


We recently moved our XBR960N and its the same way, smooth underneath (no feet etc sticking out) it sits on a glass TV stand but never had any issues with it sliding over the years.


----------



## Shaocaholica

Mathesar said:


> We recently moved our XBR960N and its the same way, smooth underneath (no feet etc sticking out) it sits on a glass TV stand but never had any issues with it sliding over the years.


What kind of support do you have on the glass? 200lb box on glass....


----------



## Mathesar

Shaocaholica said:


> What kind of support do you have on the glass? 200lb box on glass....


It's a Z-Line designs TV stand (forgot actual model #), 300lb weight capacity on the top glass shelf, it was basically made with the XBR960 in mind, I still use it today without any issues although the XBR960 is no longer our main HDTV (Kuro Plasma).

Pic I took nearly 9 years ago:


----------



## captainsolo

If I could figure out the DRC, dial back the zoom stretch so it didn't crop so much picture off and combat the phosphor trails this would be flawless.


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## JA Fant

Nice! pic- Mathesar.

I use an all glass Bell O' stand for my 960. 12 years and going strong!


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## videoguy57

I wish I could find a matching stand for my 960.

This is probably the best overall TV for 6th Gen gaming and watching HD TV Channels. Wii and GameCube will output in native 480p through component, and it looks amazing. You could also play Wii games in native 480p on the Wii U through HDMI. Since TV broadcasts max out at 1080i, the XBR960 is perfect for watching HD TV Channels. Deep inky blacks and amazing colors, zero motion blur and Super Fine Pitch.


----------



## Floydage

GeneraLight said:


> I wish I could find a matching stand for my 960.


If you're in or near the D/FW area let me know. I see them occasionally with the TV if you can temporarily deal with the TV part of it. Saw a combo not long ago for free. Now I don't know if there's matching stands by themselves for sale since I'm doing a TV search.

There's also a classified section on AVS.


----------



## GCAVS

GeneraLight said:


> I wish I could find a matching stand for my 960.


What's it worth to you?


----------



## videoguy57

GCAVS said:


> What's it worth to you?


Stand by itself? $25


----------



## ModernMode

*2 Digital Tuners?*

I own a Sony KD-34XBR960. It has one digital tuner and one analog tuner. I am wondering if I could get my hands on a digital tuner, could I remove the analog and replace it with the digital? Having the 2 digital tuners would restore my Twin View double picture. (I receive TV on over-the-air antenna).


----------



## Floydage

I doubt it since they're completely different animals. It would probably need a second set of digital goes-ins&goes-outs for control, decoding, etc., a second decoder (I doubt it's capable of mult-plexing), and major firmware changes to support all of those hardware changes.

Have you tried an external DTV tuner? Works on my Panasonic TV (Picture&Picture). And a simple SD DTV converter box should be sufficient since in double pic mode you'd hardly notice the lower resolution.


----------



## Bragi

Is there a way to remove the default tv input from the list of inputs when cycling through them? I switch between two inputs quite often and would rather it skipped over the tv input like it does the other ones. Thanks!


----------



## Floydage

Bragi said:


> Is there a way to remove the default tv input from the list of inputs when cycling through them? I switch between two inputs quite often and would rather it skipped over the tv input like it does the other ones. Thanks!


Probably not as it's an embedded feature of the antenna RF input/tuner. It's a pet peeve for me on my Panasonic, I get tired of flipping through my snowy channel 3. Didn't work for me but you could try removing any coax input if you haven't already done so; on my Panny the other inputs go display inactive when there's nothing plugged in the video connector (composite, s-video, and the Y [only] of the component inputs). Now I just use it as a secondary monitor for my second recorder's DTV tuner, so at least it allows me to disconnect the DVDR video to the TV since I rarely play back from it (I play the recorded disks on my HDD/DVDR).
Or dig in the setup menu and see if it's possible to set the antenna system completely off. Can't do it on my Panny but maybe Sony was different. I suspect no one does it though because some folks would get in a locked out state and not 'easily' know what to do to turn it back on. I locked myself out of a multi-remote code VCR once playing around in the menu, didn't have the original remote so I had to trial&error codes in a u-remote to get it to operate on an auxiliary code.


----------



## videoguy57

Does anyone have a TV Stand for the XBR960 for sale?


----------



## Floydage

GeneraLight said:


> Does anyone have a TV Stand for the XBR960 for sale?


http://www.avsforum.com/forum/214-help-wanted-seeking/

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/216-a/ (This and That)

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/211-accessories/

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/256-direct-view-crt/


----------



## blue_z

Bragi said:


> Is there a way to remove the default tv input from the list of inputs when cycling through them?


I've setup my XBR910 to skip the TV tuner in the list of inputs. 
In the Menu, under Channel, assign the "Channel Fix" to "Video 1". 
You cannot then try to also skip Video 1, i.e. if you setup Video 1's label to "skip", it doesn't.

Regards


----------



## videoguy57

Does the XBR960 output a digital or analog signal? Does changing an analog signal -> digital signal or digitalsignal -> analog signal create a loss of information?


----------



## Deusfaux

kind of a dumb question, but trying to revisit this subject long after I thought I had it all settled is trying

simply - is it better to set sources (blu-rays and video games) to 720p or 1080i?

Consensus generally seems to support that 720p is better than 1080i, but almost all of those discussions centre around flat-panel technologies with different native resolutions and abilities to scale compared to our beloved XBR960.

I know this TV's resolution is in-between those 2 signal resolutions, and I heard about how 720p signals get upconverted anyways... where does this leave us? What should I be using on this set specifically? 

Is there interlacing and blur on 1080i? Is it there regardless because 720p gets bumped up to 1080i?


----------



## videoguy57

I'm guessing you're using a PlayStation 3? I am too. I've asked these same questions before.

~95% of PS3 games are rendered in native 720p + 480p. The reason for this is because 480p+720p are Sony standards. Every game must be capable in rendering at 720p and 480p. 1080i/p is up to the developers. If you have 720p disabled in the Display Settings, PS3 games will output in native 480p.

Yes, native 720p is better than upscaled 1080i for video games because of progressive scan, no input lag from upscaling, no input lag from interlacing the signal, and no loss in clarity from upscaling. However, CRTs do handle interlaced signals very well.

For Bluray, nearly all Bluray movies are rendered at 1080p. So 1080i is infinitely better than 720p on the 960 for watching Bluray movies. Here's why:

1) All you're doing is interlacing the 1080p signal to 1080i. CRTs handle interlaced signals very well.
2) Having Bluray movies output at 720p will just leave you with less resolution and introduce other problems from downscaling.
3) Outputting Blurays at 720p will be upscaled to 1080i in the end regardless, but now you have upscaled 1080 instead of native 1080, along with artifacts introduced by upscaling and interlacing.

In conclusion, have 1080i checked no matter what. Having 720p checked depends on whether you want the game to display in native 480p with no input lag, or upscaled from 720p to 1080i with input lag from the upscaling and interlacing process.


----------



## Deusfaux

Thank you for the reply. I am aware of PS3's output resolution behaviour. I was wishing to be more source agnostic and focusing on what this TV does with the signals.

So, this TV accepts a 720p signal, but never displays a 720p image? Do I have that right? Why not? Is 480p the highest progressive image the TV can display? Or does that also get upconverted to 1080i? What is it about this TV or CRTs that make this 720p > 1080i rule of thumb not to be followed perse?


----------



## videoguy57

Deusfaux said:


> Thank you for the reply.


You're welcome. 



> I am aware of PS3's output resolution behaviour. I was wishing to be more source agnostic and focusing on what this TV does with the signals.


Well, I've _heard_ that the PS3 can upscale games by itself instead of the TV if you want. It has internal scaling software, but apparently its glitchy. It only upscales the horizontal resolution and not the vertical resolution. I can't confirm though, so take it with a grain of salt.



> So, this TV accepts a 720p signal, but never displays a 720p image? Do I have that right?


Correct. The Sony XBR960 and many other HD CRTs accept 720p source signals, but always output them at 1080i.



> Why not?


I don't know. That's just how it is. I did some research on this and dug up some conversations saying it would be far too expensive to have an HD CRT that could display 480p, 720p and 1080i. So its probably cost.



> Is 480p the highest progressive image the TV can display?


Yes. 



> Or does that also get upconverted to 1080i?


Never. It will output as a native 480p signal. Perfect for playing Wii, GameCube and watching DVDs.



> What is it about this TV or CRTs that make this 720p > 1080i rule of thumb not to be followed perse?


Well for one, HD CRT TVs cannot output 720p. So you're stuck with either 480p or 1080i for PS3 games rendered in 720p/480p only. What games do have and plan on playing?


----------



## Floydage

I read somewhere that it was too costly for the beefier HV transformer, power supply, etc. required for a CRT to display the higher p's. Lots of joules needed for the scanning.


----------



## Op2musPryme

So after browsing for one of these TV's for over 10 years in my local area, one popped up last night  . I have a chance to go pick it up this afternoon. What things should I be looking for to make sure it's working properly? Pictures of the TV look like it's been well taken care of, but the pics weren't of the TV turned on. If the picture isn't all out of wack then I will be taking it home with me. I know these are old sets but I think it would still be great for xbox 360/HDTV/Blu-Rays. Are certain issues like geometry easier to fix than an issue with colors?


----------



## DSperber

Newly placed ad in Classifieds for my D-Nice calibrated XBR960, Los Angeles area.


----------



## Op2musPryme

Well I just scored the TV for free. The guy I got it from had taken very good care of it, he had it hooked up to his direct tv via HDMI when I got there, PQ looked pretty good. There are a few spots that were just barely blurry. Anyone know if adjusting the convergence or something else will fix that? Colors looked great, didn't seem to have any geometry issues.

The TV is still under a tarp in the back of my truck, gotta wait for someone to help me carry it down into my basement... That should be fun. I can't believe how heavy these things are compared to a 32" 4:3, I can carry one of those by myself.


----------



## Jason One

Has anyone had their HDMI input port go bad? 

I was making some complicated changes to my setup today, installing new HDMI cables, switches, and a splitter. It was working okay at first, but I was getting a bad signal through one path (sparkles, lines, flashing), so I was doing a little plugging and unplugging to try to diagnose the problem point. (I think it was a bad AmazonBasics cable.)

But eventually, I couldn't get a stable HDMI picture no matter what, and now I can't get any picture at all. When I press display on the remote, the TV still indicates it's receiving an HDMI signal (e.g. "1080i, 16:9"), but there's no picture coming through. This is even with a direct connection from the source to the TV through a known good cable.

I'm really worried that I somehow accidentally damaged or fried the HDMI port. I'm feeling sick at the thought that it might never work again. The component input still works, but not having HDMI anymore would obviously be a huge loss. I was not even remotely ready to give up this great TV. 

I would be grateful for any advice or suggestions.


----------



## Jason One

After some searching, I see that I'm not the first to have this problem. Apparently, once this failure occurs, the HDMI board is no longer able to decode HDCP-encrypted signals. There's a thread about it:

34XS955/34xbr960 Lost HDMI HDCP Support

Previously in this thread, poster warpz0ne described how to replace the HDMI board to fix this:

KD-34XBR960 HDMI/Audio In "P Board" Step by Step Replacement Procedure

That sounds like a nightmare to me. I'm not sure I have the skills.

In theory, my 960 should still work with non-HDCP HDMI sources. Unfortunately I don't think I have any such devices on hand to test this. I guess I will see if I can find something to remove the HDCP before it gets to the TV. Does anyone have any recommendations?

Edit:

Things are looking up. I realized that a device I bought recently (the XRGB-Mini Framemeister) might not have HDCP on its output. I hooked it up, and sure enough, it displayed successfully. It's a relief to confirm that it's only the HDCP function that's broken, and HDMI still works otherwise.

I also learned of some HDMI splitters that reportedly have HDCP-free outputs. I've ordered a couple to test. Here's hoping that this will all work out.


----------



## DSperber

Just wanted to bow out of active participation in this thread, as my 960 was sold this week. Been 12 years since it replaced my very first HDTV, another wonderful 34" CRT the Sampo SME-34HDW5. Been participating on this thread pretty much ever since 2004 when my 960 arrived.

This morning the shippers came to pick it up here in Marina Del Rey CA so that it could then be crated up properly to ensure safe arrival for its 1400 mile journey across the country, to its new home in Shawnee OK. Not cheap to ship, but the buyer and his kids are video gamers and are very much looking forward to 480p via CRT (with no lag), as well as D-Nice calibrated color.

It's been great fun. But honestly, the Panny 65VT50 (also calibrated by D-Nice) cannot be beat. Haven't watched anything on the 960 for three years.


----------



## Shaocaholica

DSperber said:


> Just wanted to bow out of active participation in this thread, as my 960 was sold this week. Been 12 years since it replaced my very first HDTV, another wonderful 34" CRT the Sampo SME-34HDW5. Been participating on this thread pretty much ever since 2004 when my 960 arrived.
> 
> This morning the shippers came to pick it up here in Marina Del Rey CA so that it could then be crated up properly to ensure safe arrival for its 1400 mile journey across the country, to its new home in Shawnee OK. Not cheap to ship, but the buyer and his kids are video gamers and are very much looking forward to 480p via CRT (with no lag), as well as D-Nice calibrated color.
> 
> It's been great fun. But honestly, the Panny 65VT50 (also calibrated by D-Nice) cannot be beat. Haven't watched anything on the 960 for three years.


Curious how the buyer found you and what you sold it for.

I was lucky enough to find one locally after just following craigslist for 10days. Found 2 actually but only bought 1.


----------



## DSperber

Shaocaholica said:


> Curious how the buyer found you and what you sold it for.


Sent you a PM.


----------



## Kool-aid23

DSperber said:


> Just wanted to bow out of active participation in this thread, as my 960 was sold this week. Been 12 years since it replaced my very first HDTV, another wonderful 34" CRT the Sampo SME-34HDW5. Been participating on this thread pretty much ever since 2004 when my 960 arrived.
> 
> This morning the shippers came to pick it up here in Marina Del Rey CA so that it could then be crated up properly to ensure safe arrival for its 1400 mile journey across the country, to its new home in Shawnee OK. Not cheap to ship, but the buyer and his kids are video gamers and are very much looking forward to 480p via CRT (with no lag), as well as D-Nice calibrated color.
> 
> It's been great fun. But honestly, the Panny 65VT50 (also calibrated by D-Nice) cannot be beat. Haven't watched anything on the 960 for three years.


Congrats! It's been real. Likewise, been viewing my Pioneer 500m for the past 3 years but have kept the mighty 960 for video games.


----------



## videoguy57

DSperber said:


> Just wanted to bow out of active participation in this thread, as my 960 was sold this week. Been 12 years since it replaced my very first HDTV, another wonderful 34" CRT the Sampo SME-34HDW5. Been participating on this thread pretty much ever since 2004 when my 960 arrived.
> 
> This morning the shippers came to pick it up here in Marina Del Rey CA so that it could then be crated up properly to ensure safe arrival for its 1400 mile journey across the country, to its new home in Shawnee OK. Not cheap to ship, but the buyer and his kids are video gamers and are very much looking forward to 480p via CRT (with no lag), as well as D-Nice calibrated color.
> 
> It's been great fun. But honestly, the Panny 65VT50 (also calibrated by D-Nice) cannot be beat. Haven't watched anything on the 960 for three years.


Nice. I'm guessing they're using it primarily for the GameCube, PlayStation 2 and Wii? Those are all consoles which support native 480p.

Speaking of calibration, I had my Sony KD-34XBR960 fully calibrated by Chad B. back on March 5th, 2016. Needless to say, he did an absolutely amazing job! Chad was very professional and friendly, and spent almost 6 hours working on my TV to get the absolute best performance out of it. He fixed the geometry, convergence and perfected the color accuracy. Also eliminated overscan and disabled all post-processing effects. My Wii and GameCube games play in native 480p with zero input lag, and look like they're being rendered at 1080p on Dolphin! The vibrant colors and black levels are off the charts with this thing. Extremely recommended.


----------



## JA Fant

Guys-

still loving my 960N


----------



## videoguy57

JA Fant said:


> Guys-
> 
> still loving my 960N


Nice 

So I've heard that thie Sony XBR960 doesn't actually do 480p. It can only display 540p and 1080i. Is this true? Would the advertised specs and 480p appearing on my screen from 480p signals be a lie?


----------



## JA Fant

I was thinking that the 960 does 480, 720 and 1080


----------



## posthumuses

Hi I would like help with my service menu adjustments. I am trying to fix the aspect ratio of my 480p input but whenever I modify the MID settings and write it, it'll stretch back to the default ratio.


----------



## gprro1

I have a 960 in Raleigh I'm trying to get rid of ... if any one is interested pm...


----------



## Spokker

F


The dream is over today, at least for me. 12 years well spent, but it was time to move on.


----------



## foxfan

Jason One said:


> After some searching, I see that I'm not the first to have this problem. Apparently, once this failure occurs, the HDMI board is no longer able to decode HDCP-encrypted signals. There's a thread about it:
> 
> 34XS955/34xbr960 Lost HDMI HDCP Support
> 
> Previously in this thread, poster warpz0ne described how to replace the HDMI board to fix this:
> 
> KD-34XBR960 HDMI/Audio In "P Board" Step by Step Replacement Procedure
> 
> That sounds like a nightmare to me. I'm not sure I have the skills.
> 
> In theory, my 960 should still work with non-HDCP HDMI sources. Unfortunately I don't think I have any such devices on hand to test this. I guess I will see if I can find something to remove the HDCP before it gets to the TV. Does anyone have any recommendations?
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Things are looking up. I realized that a device I bought recently (the XRGB-Mini Framemeister) might not have HDCP on its output. I hooked it up, and sure enough, it displayed successfully. It's a relief to confirm that it's only the HDCP function that's broken, and HDMI still works otherwise.
> 
> I also learned of some HDMI splitters that reportedly have HDCP-free outputs. I've ordered a couple to test. Here's hoping that this will all work out.


Well, it looks like he HDCP on my 960 just went today as well. 

I have an external STB that doesn't use HDCP which still works fine on HDMI, but my Sony 380 Blu-ray player now just sends a black screen. Plugged in an older upconverting DVD player (I thought it was just the Blu-ray at first) which also gives me a black screen with occasional flickers.

Just a few months ago $180CAD was spent to get a bunch of capacitors replaced near the power supply as it would no longer turn on.

Anyone chucking out their TV today who can perhaps send me the spare (functional) HDMI port?


----------



## THX-1138

How about using HDfury?
Or something outputting to component?


----------



## foxfan

THX-1138 said:


> How about using HDfury?
> Or something outputting to component?


My Blu-ray won't output an HD signal over component. 480 only.


----------



## THX-1138

I had to buy an older bluray made before they amished the outputs.

Perhaps there is some other converter to component?


----------



## Bragi

*Is this repairable?*

Help, my set is dying. 

Here is a photo of my diagnostic screen.
Has anyone else ran in to this issue and knows how to fix it?


----------



## JA Fant

Bragi-

check out the ISF installers thread here on AVS. There are still some of those guys who offer calibration on the 960/960N sets.


----------



## JA Fant

The lead Thread is under this one. Then select the top sub-thread- ISF Calibration. Keep me posted.


----------



## Bragi

JA Fant said:


> Bragi-
> 
> check out the ISF installers thread here on AVS. There are still some of those guys who offer calibration on the 960/960N sets.


Thanks, I had someone come out and take a look at it. He knocked on the set a few times and said that it was likely a short in the CRT. I found this thread which sounds exactly like what's happening. Hopefully I can keep it going for a little longer but it sounds like I'll need to replace it soon. I'm thinking about getting an OLED tv as a replacement once it goes out for good.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/64-di...34xbr800-screen-goes-bright-red-then-off.html


----------



## JA Fant

Keep me posted -Bragi.


----------



## Bragi

Sadly, I had to replace my xbr960. I ended up getting the LG 55EG9100 from a sale on Amazon. The PQ is great on all my HD sources with excellent black levels and 1080p but I think the xbr960 was better for my LaserActive system. Still I'm happy with the new unit. It does have a much better internal tuner and I was able to remove some clutter around my HDMI switch. I purchased a nice rolling desk and now I can move it around wherever I want. I still have the original xbr960 tv stand if anyone is interested.


----------



## JA Fant

Why did you replace your XBR-960- Bragi?


----------



## nx211

Bragi said:


> ... I still have the original xbr960 tv stand if anyone is interested.


How much do you want for the stand? PM me.


----------



## Bragi

JA Fant said:


> Why did you replace your XBR-960- Bragi?


I had an issue with it that was causing it to flash red and then short out. It sounds like a common problem with older CRT sets. The issue is detailed in the thread that I linked above. Sad to see it go but I've been happy with the new OLED screen.


----------



## JA Fant

Yes- I would be sad too- Bragi


----------



## Jkonrad1993

If you connected a, say, PS3 to a KD-34XBR960, is it better to have the PS3 output 1080p only to have it converted to 1080i or just have the PS3 output the native resolution of the TV? Or perhaps there is no difference?


----------



## DSperber

Jkonrad1993 said:


> If you connected a, say, PS3 to a KD-34XBR960, is it better to have the PS3 output 1080p only to have it converted to 1080i or just have the PS3 output the native resolution of the TV? Or perhaps there is no difference?


The XBR960 does not accept 1080p. It only accepts 1080i.


----------



## Jkonrad1993

So what happens if you put something that is 1080p on the 960? Do you get a black screen or something of the like? I do understand that the TV only goes to 1080i, but I'm not sure what would happen if you fed it a higher signal.


----------



## Jkonrad1993

Please pardon my naivete when concerning these matters. I don't know too much about what the TV can and can't do.


----------



## DSperber

Jkonrad1993 said:


> So what happens if you put something that is 1080p on the 960? Do you get a black screen or something of the like? I do understand that the TV only goes to 1080i, but I'm not sure what would happen if you fed it a higher signal.


Yes, you will get a black screen.


----------



## Jkonrad1993

Thank you for the information; that was very insightful.


----------



## Jkonrad1993

DSperber said:


> Yes, you will get a black screen.


Thanks for the response.


----------



## Forest Shepherd

*Gonna buy one!*

I'm picking up one of these baby's tomorrow  But does anyone know if VHS, NES, and ATARI 2600 work well on these? I've heard their bad for the really old stuff? The guy is also selling a standard definition Sony Wega, and I might buy it if that is the case. And has anyone tested if Duck Hunt works for it? I've heard light gun games work with some HD CRT's, but not all of them? VHS is probably the most important, I have a bunch of old ones I miss, will the HD CRT actually degrade the video quality?


----------



## Jkonrad1993

Forest Shepherd said:


> I'm picking up one of these baby's tomorrow  But does anyone know if VHS, NES, and ATARI 2600 work well on these? I've heard their bad for the really old stuff? The guy is also selling a standard definition Sony Wega, and I might buy it if that is the case. And has anyone tested if Duck Hunt works for it? I've heard light gun games work with some HD CRT's, but not all of them? VHS is probably the most important, I have a bunch of old ones I miss, will the HD CRT actually degrade the video quality?


I think that the tv is built for the 480i-1080i range. I don't think that the kd-34xbr960 would be the best to use 240p content. You'll probably get the same results as plugging a NES to a modern hdtv.


----------



## Pitaface

It's a crazy story, but I have someone who wants to buy my 960. I see one on eBay for $750 and none advertised nation-wide on Craigslist (according to Search Tempest). How much are these things worth on the resale market? It's in great condition, no known damage, great picture. 

This is not fishing for a buyer. I have given this lady first right of refusal and she wants it pretty badly.

Thanks for any insights.


----------



## DSperber

Pitaface said:


> It's a crazy story, but I have someone who wants to buy my 960. I see one on eBay for $750 and none advertised nation-wide on Craigslist (according to Search Tempest). How much are these things worth on the resale market? It's in great condition, no known damage, great picture.
> 
> This is not fishing for a buyer. I have given this lady first right of refusal and she wants it pretty badly.
> 
> Thanks for any insights.


Unless they can come and pick it up in their own vehicle, they will need to pay $600+ to have it "properly crated and trucked" professionally to ensure that it arrives safely. Remember, this is a bulky 200 lb. beast with a glass screen. You want it to work when it gets there.

Earlier this year I sold my own "jewel" 960 (original owner since 2004, warranty magnet job by Sony on the picture tube to correct curvature issues out-of-the-box, calibration in 2013 by D-Nice, perfect cosmetically on chassis, case, and screen) to an excited buyer in Oklahoma who wanted this reference 480i/480p CRT for him and his son to play video games on "with no lag" (component video input). We agreed on a $250 price but then we both checked shipping costs (which he knew he was going to pay) to get a professional cross-country mover/trucker to box and ship it.

Turned out to be $650 to (a) pick up at my house and bring back to the warehouse, (b) proper protective crating and padding, and (c) trucking halfway across the country by truck from LA to Oklahoma. And that was just "curbside dropoff" (not "white glove service" to the target location inside the house). My buyer had to then enlist the assistance of his own band of helpers to get it inside and to the game room.

He hesitated at the shipping cost, and was wavering about his decision to buy it in the first place, but he and his son really wanted it. I really wanted my 960 to find a good home, so I dropped my selling price to $125 to "chip in" with the shipping costs for him. He accepted, and off it went. And it DID eventually arrive about 2 weeks later in perfect condition, and in the end he and his son were VERY happy... and finally had the chance to see that they were lucky to get THIS particular 960. It WAS worth the total price (mostly shipping!) if you want a 960 today but you're not near one.

Of course to me, the price of $125 or even $250 still seems like I was giving it away and it should have deserved a higher price. But I'd long ago (2013) moved on to a Panny 65VT50 so my 960 was simply taking up room. Sadly, it was just not being used for the past 3 years. People's need for a huge/heavy CRT display device is just not there today, no matter how fabulous it really was in its hayday.


----------



## Pitaface

DSperber said:


> Of course to me, the price of $125 or even $250 still seems like I was giving it away and it should have deserved a higher price.


Thanks. I didn't think to clarify. This lady lives about a mile from me, so I'd personally deliver it.

We were thinking $300. Is that fair?


----------



## DSperber

Pitaface said:


> Thanks. I didn't think to clarify. This lady lives about a mile from me, so I'd personally deliver it.
> 
> We were thinking $300. Is that fair?


Personally, I thought my $250 asking price was somewhat high compared to other sales which were well below that. I thought those were tragically low prices, but apparently sellers were willing to give them away for next to nothing.

But I felt my D-Nice calibration surely counted for something, not to mention that my screen was perfect and original and not scuffed or scratched or scraped or anti-glare buffed off. And I had done my own tweaking with Service Menu settings, to get the adjustable picture geometry about as good as was possible. I probably would have still been using it had I not seen the image on a Panny 65VT50 in a store when I went in Xmas 2012 to see the brand new Sony 84" first 4K screen (priced at $25,000) which was on display. I decided to replace my 34" Sony with a 65" Panny and have been thankful ever since for that decision. Both are superb, but there's really no comparison.

Just turns out the market for the 960 is slim, to find someone wanting one of these large CRT beasts. What if it needs repair? Who does that anymore? But if she wants it, terrific.

Anyway, I don't know the condition of your 960. But if you will deliver it to her for $300 I certainly think that's definitely fair for both of you. Maybe a bit high (on the purchase price for her), but we're not talking a real lot of money here. And you are delivering it.


----------



## JA Fant

DSperber-

my set was built in 2004 as well, still going strong in 2016. I would love to have it ISF calibrated. 
I wonder how much a calibration would extend the life of the glass picture tube?


----------



## Ratman

IMO... it will have nothing to do with extending the "life" now. (and probably costs more than the value of the TV)
If a calibration was performed back in 2004, you would have had at least 12 years of great picture quality.


----------



## iforsevilla

Its been a long time since I have visited this site. I finally gave up when my 960 started having the horizontal lines across the screen on any input and have the green push last september. This was the last straw and so I decided to get the samsung un55ks800d at sam's club thursday - 978. Dropped of the 960 at the closest salvation army the same night. It was a good ride, about 10-12 years, can't even remember when we got it. I can't believe I moved the tv by myself. Using a dolly, straps, car ramp and our old odyssey. It turned out fairly easy. The dolly did all the heavy lifting. 

This 8 series samsung is looking mighty great though. I hope it last. I will be moving to the samsung suhdtv section. Later guys.


----------



## JA Fant

My set was made in 2004. I bought it new in DEC 2005


----------



## JA Fant

There is an old rumor about Sony CRT- they either lat 10years or 20 years? Here's to lasting the full 20


----------



## JA Fant

Welcome! Forest Shepard


----------



## JA Fant

Welcome! JKonrad 1993


----------



## boonrag

Hello Forum. I have a 34XBR960 that I bought new in 2004. It has died last week. I turn it on see three red blinks and the tv shuts off. Is this an easy fix? I had the set calibrated in 2005 and I have never seen a better picture.


----------



## Dean_KS

Typical problem is a certain IC fails. There are two and one has failed. You would replaced both.
IF 6 OR 7 BLINKS.

http://nickviera.com/av/sony_wega/

3 blinks is a power supply problem. Either the power supply or IC 6505 that reports the problem.

----------------

6-7 blinks continued

Are you able to do work on IC boards with fine traces? There are two 16 pin IC's to remove.
You need a fine tip temperature controlled soldering iron, solder wick and solder sucker.

The back cover is removed and the IC is then exposed.

It is not an easy job. You need decent skills/experience. But if you fail, not much lost.

There is a repair kit with the two IC's and two sockets. The cost of the kit is trivial.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005QOOACY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003E48ERU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## vash32

Just got a used KD-34XBR960 for just $50 and love it a lot.. however for just $50 is does have some problems that I'll like to get fixed. I've more or less removed all the overscan but I have some convergence problems & I think the disk magnets need to be adjust as the corner are not right. (or can the magnets go bad over time?)


----------



## JA Fant

vash32

Welcome! hope you receibe the help requested to fix your 960. I have had mines for 11 years, built in 2004, w/o issues.
There is a wealth of info in this thread. Keep reading from the beginning and good luck!


----------



## Dean_KS

vash32 said:


> Just got a used KD-34XBR960 for just $50 and love it a lot.. however for just $50 is does have some problems that I'll like to get fixed. I've more or less removed all the overscan but I have some convergence problems & I think the disk magnets need to be adjust as the corner are not right. (or can the magnets go bad over time?)


These TVs are sensitive to external magnet fields. If there is or has been non shielded speakers near by you can have problems.


----------



## vash32

JA Fant said:


> vash32
> 
> Welcome! hope you receibe the help requested to fix your 960. I have had mines for 11 years, built in 2004, w/o issues.
> There is a wealth of info in this thread. Keep reading from the beginning and good luck!


I've seen some info on hare so far & its be very helpful. I be sure to keep reading. The problems are not very bad but all the HD CRTs that I tired out so far all got the same problems. I used two Hi-Scan models before this god or a home CRT.



Dean_KS said:


> These TVs are sensitive to external magnet fields. If there is or has been non shielded speakers near by you can have problems.


 I'm not sure if anyone has does this to it before or not, I know I have not. It does has this in the manual:

Disk magnets or rotatable disk magnets correct these areas a-d. Its only the four corners that same to have this problem. Its not seeable for more things but I can see it in games as I'm using the menu. I can also see some red, greed & blue lines some parts of the screen, that most likely the convergence.


----------



## JA Fant

Keep me posted -Vash32


----------



## Dean_KS

vash32 said:


> I've seen some info on hare so far & its be very helpful. I be sure to keep reading. The problems are not very bad but all the HD CRTs that I tired out so far all got the same problems. I used two Hi-Scan models before this god or a home CRT.
> 
> I'm not sure if anyone has does this to it before or not, I know I have not. It does has this in the manual:
> 
> Disk magnets or rotatable disk magnets correct these areas a-d. Its only the four corners that same to have this problem. Its not seeable for more things but I can see it in games as I'm using the menu. I can also see some red, greed & blue lines some parts of the screen, that most likely the convergence.


The demagnetization coil really only works properly when there is no external field, ie from an shielded speaker.

If there is an external magnetic field, the demagnetization will imprint the magnetic field, not erase it.

Above may not have any application to your situation.


----------



## vash32

Dean_KS said:


> The demagnetization coil really only works properly when there is no external field, ie from an shielded speaker.
> 
> If there is an external magnetic field, the demagnetization will imprint the magnetic field, not erase it.
> 
> Above may not have any application to your situation.


I'm not sure but from what I've seen online, I may need to position my yoke or move it back as it sames that can move off a little over time.
I'm thinking I'll need up just opening it someday soon & just do most of the things in the service manual.

Like what this guy has done to a older 36" that I may do the same from my old 28" that the same model type.
youtube com /watch?v=3SsLwcSKIOY


----------



## The Lizard King

What's a fair price to pay for one with and without the modular SONY stand?


----------



## JA Fant

The Lizard King said:


> What's a fair price to pay for one with and without the modular SONY stand?


I would say $100-200 depending on condition. Make sure that the set has never been in a non-climate controlled space.


----------



## The Lizard King

JA Fant said:


> I would say $100-200 depending on condition. Make sure that the set has never been in a non-climate controlled space.


If it's stored in a garage, that's a problem?


----------



## JA Fant

Yes- a tv such as this should never store in a garage, basement nor attic. Climate -controlled conditions only.


----------



## JA Fant

Merry Christmas- All


----------



## JA Fant

Getting ready to start another New Year w/ my 960N


----------



## JA Fant

Happy New Year!


----------



## JA Fant

Here's to another year w/ my 960N


----------



## JA Fant

Hope you guys are still enjoying your 960/960N CRT sets.


----------



## The Lizard King

JA Fant said:


> Hope you guys are still enjoying your 960/960N CRT sets.


I've never owned one, but I own two KD-36XS955 sets, and they are both still working just fine.


----------



## JA Fant

The Lizard King said:


> I've never owned one, but I own two KD-36XS955 sets, and they are both still working just fine.


very nice! Lizard King


----------



## captainsolo

I love my set and got used to the slight problems with the curving of the upper left corner and a touch of side overscan once I did service menu tweaking.
What really drives me nuts are the phosphor trails. Otherwise it's a total beauty.
My current settings are:
Picture 20
Brightness 40
Color 31
Sharpness 27
Pro mode

I think my brightness may be a tad too high for movies and games seem to need a bit more.

My question is about inherent sharpness. I've seen some things appear that seems bit like edge enhancement halos and wasn't sure if there's some type of service menu controlled EE within the set itself. I have the menu VM totally off.


----------



## lowibu

I've had a 960 for about four years. Been lurking here for all that time, and managed to fix a 40XBR800 thanks to the info here. Dragged the 960 with me from Arizona to California and don't think I'll ever get rid of it.

Anyone know if CRT calibrators are still around? I've spent many hours tweaking and taking notes on the service menu options, but I just can't get the geometry on point or the overscan when I try to reach something close to what a 1:1 pixel map would be. It hasn't bothered me until recently when I hooked up a PS4 Pro to it. Blu-Rays, DVDs, Laserdiscs, etc. still look fantastic, but either my TV is at its limit and new games are far too detailed to expect much clarity in the small text or the settings are way off. I'm thinking of either going the calibration route if that's still a thing or just grabbing a 9G Kuro and delegating the CRT to LD and old game duty. The anti-glare coating is pretty far gone too, but it's not noticeable at night at least.


----------



## JA Fant

boonrag said:


> Hello Forum. I have a 34XBR960 that I bought new in 2004. It has died last week. I turn it on see three red blinks and the tv shuts off. Is this an easy fix? I had the set calibrated in 2005 and I have never seen a better picture.


Welcome! boonrag

hope you can find a repair tech.


----------



## JA Fant

lowibu said:


> I've had a 960 for about four years. Been lurking here for all that time, and managed to fix a 40XBR800 thanks to the info here. Dragged the 960 with me from Arizona to California and don't think I'll ever get rid of it.
> 
> Anyone know if CRT calibrators are still around? I've spent many hours tweaking and taking notes on the service menu options, but I just can't get the geometry on point or the overscan when I try to reach something close to what a 1:1 pixel map would be. It hasn't bothered me until recently when I hooked up a PS4 Pro to it. Blu-Rays, DVDs, Laserdiscs, etc. still look fantastic, but either my TV is at its limit and new games are far too detailed to expect much clarity in the small text or the settings are way off. I'm thinking of either going the calibration route if that's still a thing or just grabbing a 9G Kuro and delegating the CRT to LD and old game duty. The anti-glare coating is pretty far gone too, but it's not noticeable at night at least.


Yes, there are many ISF CRT calibrators in California. Look at the ISF Calibrator section of these forums and post your request


----------



## JA Fant

Display Calibration - top link for ISF providers.


----------



## lowibu

JA Fant said:


> Yes, there are many ISF CRT calibrators in California. Look at the ISF Calibrator section of these forums and post your request


Thanks. I'm glad there's still support for them. I'll look into it soon if I decide to keep my 960. Getting kinda tight on space in my apartment, and I have been ramping up my search for a larger plasma display. 

I need to see if I can rig up some sort of pulley system to haul this thing upstairs without too many casualties. If not, I may sell and buy one back when I have a larger place. Man, I have the perfect TV stand for it upstairs though...


----------



## JA Fant

lowibu said:


> Thanks. I'm glad there's still support for them. I'll look into it soon if I decide to keep my 960. Getting kinda tight on space in my apartment, and I have been ramping up my search for a larger plasma display.
> 
> I need to see if I can rig up some sort of pulley system to haul this thing upstairs without too many casualties. If not, I may sell and buy one back when I have a larger place. Man, I have the perfect TV stand for it upstairs though...


keep me posted- lowibu


----------



## Justin Fletcher

Almost 12 years, and my 960 is still going strong. However, I think it's about to be relegated to a secondary position in the household. I'll need the stand it's using now for its replacement, so I'll need another stand for the 960's new home. It looks like the matching Sony stand (SU-34XBR3) was discontinued long ago, so does anyone have any suggestions as to a currently available, fairly cheap stand that would serve its wedge shape and 200 lbs. of CRT goodness?


----------



## lowibu

Justin Fletcher said:


> Almost 12 years, and my 960 is still going strong. However, I think it's about to be relegated to a secondary position in the household. I'll need the stand it's using now for its replacement, so I'll need another stand for the 960's new home. It looks like the matching Sony stand (SU-34XBR3) was discontinued long ago, so does anyone have any suggestions as to a currently available, fairly cheap stand that would serve its wedge shape and 200 lbs. of CRT goodness?


It might be best to browse CL for old, deep TV stands that were meant for CRTs. You could pick something up for next to nothing. 

I was using this Ikea unit to hold mine up though (my wife got sick of the fake wood paneled CRT stand I was using and wanted something white): http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/30269129/ It's rated for 220 lbs, which worked fine. The 960's housing stuck out by about 5 inches, but I never had issues aside from scratching up the surface when I had to take it down. Right now, I just have it on an old stand my father-in-law picked up from the garbage lol. I think that's better. The weight is more safely distributed, and it has a better wood framework at the front for supporting the front glass's weight.


----------



## JA Fant

I,too, have owned my 960N for 13 yrs now. I use a Bell' O stand, very sturdy. Remember this wonderful set is a beast! Get a stand rated for 250 lbs and you will be fine.


----------



## tortoise

Justin Fletcher said:


> Almost 12 years, and my 960 is still going strong. However, I think it's about to be relegated to a secondary position in the household. I'll need the stand it's using now for its replacement, so I'll need another stand for the 960's new home. It looks like the matching Sony stand (SU-34XBR3) was discontinued long ago, so does anyone have any suggestions as to a currently available, fairly cheap stand that would serve its wedge shape and 200 lbs. of CRT goodness?


Don't know how important looks are for you, but I moved my 960 to the bedroom last year on an end table I bought from Salvation Army, and it works fine. The table is an 80's vintage solid wood table. The depth of the table is more than the TV depth, however the ends of the TV overhang by about 3 inches on each side. The TV is stable and there is room underneath if you need to attach some AV accessories. Total cost, 5 bucks.


----------



## captainsolo

After comparing the 960 to the xs955, I have to say the 960 comes out better. I also watch a lot of Laserdisc, and even with the smaller 4:3 window the 960 has the better image.The images come across as slightly sharper, brighter and clearer overall-and the 960 lets me adjust the DRC palette whereas the 955 for some unknown stupid reason does not. Thus the 955 always appears noisy and pixelated in comparison. 

Ironically, after doing overscan adjustments, when I set 4:3 letterboxed content to zoom mode on the 960, it again looks BETTER than the 955. When you use such a zoom mode on 4:3 I'd have thought it would cause artifacts or slight resolution loss but it doesn't seem to at all.

Both have aliasing issues which I presume comes from the DRC. I am correct in thinking that there is no way to disable this, nor a particular correct way to set it so that the video is untouched?

I'm limited to SD tests anyway as the HDMI on the 955 is apparently shot and doesn't work at all.


----------



## Slinky11

Well the time has come. I'm moving, and the TV can't come with me.

Thus, i'm offering my XBR960 free to AVS members in the South Bay Area. Santa Clara specifically. 

Lightly used in the last few years. Needs a little overscan and probably fine pitch work. There is one part of the power cable that isn't pretty, but it isn't chewed through. No scratches on the screen film. Comes with remote and short screw-in HDMI extension. Please let me know if you or someone you know is interested.










I have a stand, but would need some money for that. I'd like to keep it otherwise.


----------



## JA Fant

Slinky11 said:


> Well the time has come. I'm moving, and the TV can't come with me.
> 
> Thus, i'm offering my XBR960 free to AVS members in the South Bay Area. Santa Clara specifically.
> 
> Lightly used in the last few years. Needs a little overscan and probably fine pitch work. There is one part of the power cable that isn't pretty, but it isn't chewed through. No scratches on the screen film. Comes with remote and short screw-in HDMI extension. Please let me know if you or someone you know is interested.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a stand, but would need some money for that. I'd like to keep it otherwise.


sweet pic!


----------



## JA Fant

As above,

captainsolo- the 960/960N was Sony's last excellent CRT. They did not cut any corners on production and performance.


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## JA Fant

Enjoying another Summer w/ my 960N


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## JohnGZ28

Mine is hanging on by a thread, picture is still great but it randomly shuts off.


----------



## NeilPeart

My KD-34XS955N is still kicking and still looks great after 13 years. I self-calibrated it years ago, so perhaps I'll reward it with another calibration since I performed it over 10 years ago. I still have the matching stand and I have no symptoms of any problems (I've always connected it to a voltage-regulated power conditioner with surge protection - perhaps that helped). Other than the picture, which is still terrific, the sound quality blows me away. Today's plasmas, LCDs and OLEDs all are too thin to have decent on-board sound. The built in speakers and CRT picture make this my favorite classic-gaming TV - I have my Atari 2600, NES, SNES, Genesis, N64, GameCube and Wii connected to it (I use the DVDO Edge de-interlacer/scaler & a Darbee Darblet). I have offered this TV locally for $200 with stand and no bites - maybe I'm asking too much for this old beast.


----------



## tortoise

NeilPeart said:


> My KD-34XS955N is still kicking and still looks great after 13 years. I self-calibrated it years ago, so perhaps I'll reward it with another calibration since I performed it over 10 years ago. I still have the matching stand and I have no symptoms of any problems (I've always connected it to a voltage-regulated power conditioner with surge protection - perhaps that helped). Other than the picture, which is still terrific, the sound quality blows me away. Today's plasmas, LCDs and OLEDs all are too thin to have decent on-board sound. The built in speakers and CRT picture make this my favorite classic-gaming TV - I have my Atari 2600, NES, SNES, Genesis, N64, GameCube and Wii connected to it (I use the DVDO Edge de-interlacer/scaler & a Darbee Darblet). I have offered this TV locally for $200 with stand and no bites - maybe I'm asking too much for this old beast.


It's a great TV, but not much in demand. I've kept mine in the guest room, since it would actually cost money to get rid of it.


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## JA Fant

Nothing, no current brand betters these CRT sets. Sony XBR is in a class unto itself.


----------



## Tom Smith Smith

captainsolo said:


> After comparing the 960 to the xs955, I have to say the 960 comes out better. I also watch a lot of Laserdisc, and even with the smaller 4:3 window the 960 has the better image.The images come across as slightly sharper, brighter and clearer overall-and the 960 lets me adjust the DRC palette whereas the 955 for some unknown stupid reason does not. Thus the 955 always appears noisy and pixelated in comparison.
> 
> Ironically, after doing overscan adjustments, when I set 4:3 letterboxed content to zoom mode on the 960, it again looks BETTER than the 955. When you use such a zoom mode on 4:3 I'd have thought it would cause artifacts or slight resolution loss but it doesn't seem to at all.
> 
> Both have aliasing issues which I presume comes from the DRC. I am correct in thinking that there is no way to disable this, nor a particular correct way to set it so that the video is untouched?
> 
> I'm limited to SD tests anyway as the HDMI on the 955 is apparently shot and doesn't work at all.


I just got my hands on a 34XBR960 (through Craigslist) and I experienced the exact opposite. My 30XS955 seems to have the better, sharper and more vivid picture. My 960 has a more dull/grayish tint picture. Aren't all these Sony HD-CRTs supposed to have the same SFP tube?


----------



## Tom Smith Smith

Some claim that the 34XBR960 (and other Sony HD-CRTs) can't do 720p. Where's the evidence that they can't and that they upscale 720p to 1080i? Whenever I feed the 34XBR960 a 720p signal, the TV display info says "720p" and not 1080i. So how can I know whether the TV is displaying 720p or not?


----------



## JA Fant

Tom Smith Smith said:


> Some claim that the 34XBR960 (and other Sony HD-CRTs) can't do 720p. Where's the evidence that they can't and that they upscale 720p to 1080i? Whenever I feed the 34XBR960 a 720p signal, the TV display info says "720p" and not 1080i. So how can I know whether the TV is displaying 720p or not?


The well-written Sony manual can provide all of this intel for you.


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## JA Fant

As above ,
Tom- is the 30XS955 an XBR set?


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## Tom Smith Smith

JA Fant said:


> The well-written Sony manual can provide all of this intel for you.


Thanks. I'll have a look at it.


JA Fant said:


> As above ,
> Tom- is the 30XS955 an XBR set?


Nope. But it is a "Super Fine Pitch" tube.


Tom Smith Smith said:


> I just got my hands on a 34XBR960 (through Craigslist) and I experienced the exact opposite. My 30XS955 seems to have the better, sharper and more vivid picture. My 960 has a more dull/grayish tint picture. Aren't all these Sony HD-CRTs supposed to have the same SFP tube?


Now that I think about it, I think my new 34XBR960 is just poorly calibrated.


----------



## Floydage

Tom Smith Smith said:


> I just got my hands on a 34XBR960 (through Craigslist) and I experienced the exact opposite. My 30XS955 seems to have the better, sharper and more vivid picture. My 960 has a more dull/grayish tint picture. Aren't all these Sony HD-CRTs supposed to have the same SFP tube?


If there's no N on the end of your model number then it came with anti-glare film. Could be messed up by now. There's at least one thread on AVS about removing the gnarly stuff. Blemishes, scratches, increase brightness, and maybe this kind of problem. Of course that 960 is pretty old now, could have problems.
I don't know that any CRT TV is capable of displaying true 720p. From what I read it was too costly as the HV HD CRT requires more joule-intensive circuitry.


----------



## DSperber

Floydage said:


> I don't know that any CRT TV is capable of displaying true 720p. From what I read it was too costly as the HV HD CRT requires more joule-intensive circuitry.


Though it's not available now, back in the early 2000's the Sampo SME-34WHD5 (which I owned as my very first HDTV, before its picture tube died in 2004 and I purchased a Sony 34XBR960 to replace it) actually DID support native scan mode of both 720p and 1080i. There was no up/down-conversion of 720p source input, as 720p input was displayed in native 720p display mode. There was no digital HDMI input, but rather only analog component video input of 720p/1080i HD source. The set retailed for $3500 when it came out.

Although the 34XBR960 certainly accepted 720p input from both HDMI as well as component video, I do believe it was up-converted for display at the native scan mode of 1080i.


----------



## NeilPeart

*Calibration Tips*

I received some questions regarding calibrating these Sony SFP HD CRTs (XBR & XS); I'm FAR from an expert in these matters but this is what I did with mine:

The first step to calibrating this TV is to set the picture mode to Pro and color to Warm; also in the Advanced Menu set the Color Axis to Monitor. Then use a variety of calibration discs to get the best settings with your eye; I start with the Disney WoW, then move to DVE and finally finish with the Spears and Munsil 2nd Edition disc. If you have the knowledge I would then venture into the Service Menu to get the best convergence and overscan results (and many other things too).

If you want to take it farther and desire more accuracy I would use a colorimeter like the X-Rite (and software, patterns, etc.) to get the most accurate color temperature and grayscale possible (as much as these Sony XBR/XS Super-Fine-Pitch tubes allow), or even hire an ISF Pro for a calibration session (they can combine their knowledge of calibration and the service menu and usually have much better gear). Even though I have some of the basic equipment and perform my own calibrations, if I'm going to keep the TV long-term I hire a pro because they always achieve better performance that I can. Obviously these CRTs are very old so I'm not sure a pro calibrator is worth it at this point, but that is a personal decision.

I also recommend the use of a DVDO Edge up-scaler/de-interlacer (or similar device) to get much better 480p & 720p up-scaling and de-interlacing. Of course it's always best to feed this TV a native 1080i signal whenever possible so no de-interlacing must be performed, but some sources cannot output anything but a 480p, 720p or even a 1080p signal - the TV's built in scaler/de-interlacer doesn't handle this nearly as well as the DVDO Edge. I finish it off by using a Darbee DVP5000S to get that last bit of POP.

If you’re a classic gamer this TV can output 240p signals via composite or S-Video (NES, SNES & Genesis for example), but the DVDO Edge does a much better job (albeit with a bit of ringing). The 3D comb filter in the Edge is superior to the Sony TV (though there are other higher-performing comb filters out there, that’s a story for another day). However, instead of messing with all that I would just modify the console (if needed) for pure RGB output via SCART to component cables to the Edge, which looks incredible. For hardcore gamers there are better options than this TV, such as Sony's professional PVM or (even better) BVM monitors.


----------



## Floydage

DSperber said:


> Though it's not available now, back in the early 2000's the Sampo SME-34WHD5 (which I owned as my very first HDTV, before its picture tube died in 2004 and I purchased a Sony 34XBR960 to replace it) actually DID support native scan mode of both 720p and 1080i. There was no up/down-conversion of 720p source input, as 720p input was displayed in native 720p display mode. There was no digital HDMI input, but rather only analog component video input of 720p/1080i HD source. The set retailed for $3500 when it came out.


It does exist! . First one I've heard of in these parts that can do so. Do you recall if it was heavier weight and higher max. power usage than the 'norm?'
My Panny CT-34WX50 is about that vintage (2001). Similar input porting with the lack of HDMI and DVI, and component video inputs but for 480i/480p/1080i (cannot accept 720p). MSRPed for $4500 if I recall correctly [a freebie for me from a Kenwood audio distributor that used it for trade shows, etc.; the good: low usage, the bad: shipped around the country].
Hope your Panny plasma is still serving you well!


----------



## DSperber

Floydage said:


> It does exist! . First one I've heard of in these parts that can do so. Do you recall if it was heavier weight and higher max. power usage than the 'norm?'


It was just a bit lighter than the 34XBR960. As I recall it weighed 192 lbs., which was just shy of the 195 lbs. that the 960 comes in at. Essentially identical in size and bulk to the 960.

I'll never forget my reaction when I first connected it to the roof antenna I installed to pick up WFAA (the ABC affiliate in Dallas which was the first station to broadcast in HD there) and got to see my first ever HDTV picture on the Sampo screen. WFAA was 1080i in those days (before Disney bought ABC/ESPN and converted to 720p) and I gasped. I used to watch the overnight test loops, which were broadcasts of Raleigh WRAL-produced 10-30 minute HDTV demos that had astonishingly high bitrate MPEG2 compression. I ran the OTA/ATSC antenna into my Dish Network HD setup, which included a model 5000 receiver and the special HDTV modulator that attached to the back. This fed 8VSB output on channel 3 to my legendary "Panny combo" (DTS50 receiver and PV-HD1000 DVHS VCR).

I did get a discount on the $3500 retail price of the Sampo when I bought it in March 2001. I paid $2750, plus $100 shipping from CA to Dallas, and another $40 for the special "service remote". The poor delivery guys were only supposed to deliver it "to the curb", but I persuaded them to walk it upstairs to my 2nd floor apartment (no elevator!). They had to take it out of the carton in order to make the turn and get it in through my front door and I was terrified it would not make the journey from curb to countertop unscathed. Luckily it escaped unharmed and I got 3 years of pure pleasure out of it.




> Hope your Panny plasma is still serving you well!


Indeed it is. It really is a wonder.

I recently took a chance and applied the latest Panasonic firmware update, since Smart Viera (streaming apps) wouldn't open until I did. I wanted to enable Hulu (for just long enough to watch "The Handmaid's Tale", which I think was overrated) and Amazon Prime Video. I was praying that the software update wouldn't impact my 2013 D-Nice calibration (which still seems to be perfect, and I haven't felt any need to have it "tweaked"), and it doesn't seem to have had any effect.

I was actually more concerned that moving my input source from HDMI1 to HDMI2 (in order to enable ARC, to feed audio from the Panny's Viera streaming apps out to my AVR) might have some effect. But I had ControlCAL and was able to easily copy the ISF settings to HDMI2, and then it was only fingers crossed that the picture would look just as good even though the original calibration had been done using HDMI1. Sure enough... I again lucked out, and the picture is still perfect.

So 65VT50 pure pleasure still continues. Thanks for asking.

And on a related note, my speaker-less audio enjoyment continues, through my Smyth Realiser A8 headphone setup (using Stax SR-009 phones and SRM-007tII amp, to provide 7.1 SVS "Smyth virtual surround") and Oppo BDP-103. The Head-Fi community (including myself) is anxiously awaiting the upcoming (probably October) first shipments of the brand new Realiser A16. It's a remarkable improvement over the A8, including built-in latest Dolby Atmos and DTS-X A/V codec 7.1.4 decoding capability as well as supporting HDCP 2.2 and HDMI 2.0b, hardware control for two listening users simultaneously, and I bought an Oppo UDP-203 to begin what I need to support my eventual entry into 4K HDR.


----------



## Floydage

DSperber said:


> I did get a discount on the $3500 retail price of the Sampo when I bought it in March 2001. I paid $2750, plus $100 shipping from CA to Dallas, and another $40 for the special "service remote". The poor delivery guys were only supposed to deliver it "to the curb", but I persuaded them to walk it upstairs to my 2nd floor apartment (no elevator!). They had to take it out of the carton in order to make the turn and get it in through my front door and I was terrified it would not make the journey from curb to countertop unscathed. Luckily it escaped unharmed and I got 3 years of pure pleasure out of it.


Wow, $100 for shipment and nice persuasion on the bonus upstairs/precarious delivery! Good purchase discount too for back in the day. But I'm sorry it didn't last longer.
______

Somewhere along the line there was a shift back by WFAA to 1080i. I'm in Fort Worth but didn't get started on any DTV until the CECB era. I believe FOX is the only big boy here currently running 720p.

Glad to hear on the plasma, looked like a darn good choice based on your thorough research. Yeah that's scary on the cal, a lot of time and I suspect money involved. And apparently the HDMI ports are pretty well correlated. I've always liked Panny products. Still made in Japan I suspect.

Interesting on the virtual surround headphone setup as I'd never really thought about it before. And I've heard those Oppos are really nice. Sounds like quite an A/V setup! Is the 65VT50 4K ready?


----------



## DSperber

Floydage said:


> Is the 65VT50 4K ready?


No. Just 1080p. And no plans to upgrade to anything new in the near future, though it will likely be to OLED if/when that time comes. But for now it's my reality.


----------



## hipper

[


raouliii said:


> Quote: Originally Posted by 8086
> 
> That sounds very incorrect. DRC is a De-interlacer.
> 
> Do you have a Link???
> 
> 
> Yes, the DRC (Digital Reality Creation) is basically a de-interlacer for 480i inputs which are upconverted to 480p. 480p is then upconverted by the MID (Multi Image Driver) to 1080i for display.
> 
> The schematic of the set clearly indicates that it has a fixed scan rate in that it has a fixed horizontal 33.75KHz oscillator in the horizontal deflection circuit.
> 
> I don't have a link but can also quote a Sony DA4 Theory of Operation Training Manual.
> 
> "All video processing is performed on the B-board (DRC and MID processing).
> The DRC circuit will double the horizontal frequency for input signals with 15.75KHz (NTSC) horizontal inputs. The MID circuit will up-convert the horizontal frequency of the input signal to 33.75KHz, which is the scan rate of the DA-4 and DA-4X chassis. Table 5-2 shows the signal standard and its associate horizontal frequency.
> 
> Table 5-2 - Input Signal Standard and Horizontal Frequency
> Input Signal Horizontal Frequency
> Standard NTSC 480i 15.534KHz
> High Resolution 480p 31.5KHz
> High Resolution 720p 45KHz
> High Resolution 1080i 33.75KHz
> 
> The following is a description of the signal flow for each standard listed in Table 5-2:
> · 15.734KHz input: DRC circuit up-converts to 31.5KHz and MID circuit up-converters to 33.75KHz
> · 31.5KHz input: MID circuit up-converts to 33.75KHz
> · 33.75KHz input: XBR, HV pass through MID; HS bypass MID circuit
> · 45KHz input: MID circuit down-converts to 33.75KHz
> 
> The difference between this set and a conventional set is the horizontal frequency, which is 33.75KHz as opposed to 15.75KHz scan rate in the conventional set. The 33.75Khz scan rate is considered a high definition horizontal scan rate."


This TV always displays everything in 1080i? So it can't do progressive scan? I thought CRTs could do multiple resolutions? If this is true, then I'll be getting rid of my other Sony HD-CRT TVs. I have no use for interlaced only monsters. Thank god I didn't pay anything for them. Now I know why nobody wants so-called HDTV-CRTs.

I found a 960 for a very good price, but I don't think I'll be buying it anymore. 1080i (AKA 540i?) only? No thank you.


----------



## JA Fant

hipper said:


> [
> This TV always displays everything in 1080i? So it can't do progressive scan? I thought CRTs could do multiple resolutions? If this is true, then I'll be getting rid of my other Sony HD-CRT TVs. I have no use for interlaced only monsters. Thank god I didn't pay anything for them. Now I know why nobody wants so-called HDTV-CRTs.
> 
> I found a 960 for a very good price, but I don't think I'll be buying it anymore. 1080i (AKA 540i?) only? No thank you.


Welcome! hipper


----------



## JA Fant

DSperber said:


> No. Just 1080p. And no plans to upgrade to anything new in the near future, though it will likely be to OLED if/when that time comes. But for now it's my reality.


DSperber- are you still into ISF calibration?


----------



## Floydage

hipper said:


> [
> This TV always displays everything in 1080i? So it can't do progressive scan? I thought CRTs could do multiple resolutions? If this is true, then I'll be getting rid of my other Sony HD-CRT TVs. I have no use for interlaced only monsters. Thank god I didn't pay anything for them. Now I know why nobody wants so-called HDTV-CRTs.
> 
> I found a 960 for a very good price, but I don't think I'll be buying it anymore. 1080i (AKA 540i?) only? No thank you.


My Panny 34" HD CRT does 480p. I 'thought' the same for this and many, if not all, others. DSperber replied up above that he once had a Sampo that did 720p.


----------



## DSperber

hipper said:


> [
> This TV always displays everything in 1080i? So it can't do progressive scan? I thought CRTs could do multiple resolutions? If this is true, then I'll be getting rid of my other Sony HD-CRT TVs. I have no use for interlaced only monsters. Thank god I didn't pay anything for them. Now I know why nobody wants so-called HDTV-CRTs.
> 
> I found a 960 for a very good price, but I don't think I'll be buying it anymore. 1080i (AKA 540i?) only? No thank you.


The 960's input electronics support INPUT source resolutions of 480i, 480p30, 720p60 and 1080i source. You cannot feed it 1080p.

And of course, its composite and S-video inputs support only 480i input. For 480p, 720p and 1080i, you must use either its component video input or its HDMI input.

The 960 has a "native resolution" of 1080i. That means it has a maximum of 1080 lines of electron beams projected onto the screen by the electron gun, and that at that maximum resolution there will be alternating "interlaced" sets of the even/odd 540 lines at a time, each set of 540 lines sent out to the screen 30 times per second. A CRT monitor can display an image at any "display (aka "source input") resolution" at or below its maximum "native resolution". The electron beam is "scaled up" if necessary in order to utilize the complete 34" diagonal screen area available for the image being displayed, subject to some service menu adjustable "overscan" around the perimeter designed to reduce negative visual artifacts of projecting the electron beam from a conceptual point source onto a flat rectangular screen. The adjustable overscan "magnifies larger" the actual displayed image typically anywhere from 0-10% to try and eliminate the worst artifacts which appear at the extreme edges of the electron beam image which are now no longer physically visible on the screen.

Because scanline-based CRTs are analog in nature they can vary their display CRTs provide a variability in resolution that fixed resolution pixel-based LCDs cannot provide. The 960 eliminates its "interlaced" function when the input is 480p, so 480p30 input (e.g. from old video games) is presented using 540 display lines (which holds the complete 480 lines of source input) 30 times per second so that there is no visible "flicker" at all. This is what made (and still makes) the 960 desirable for early gamers. As a matter of fact, I was able to sell my own 960 last year (located here in LA) to a buyer in Oklahoma who was willing to pay for crating and shipping (by a mover) halfway across the country, so that he could have this set for him and his son to play old video games on... at a "true progressive 480p" non-flicker no-delay only possible with old analog CRT-based sets.

So you could say 480p30 input is displayed at a "native 480p" within 540 screen lines completely refreshed 30 times per second. Zero flicker. In contrast, the 960 displays the 1080 screen lines of 1080i input exactly as one would expect, namely displaying all 1080 lines of input as two alternating interlaced sets of even/odd 540 screen lines, presenting each set of 540 lines 30 times per second.

720p is obviously its own problem for an analog CRT that has 1080 screen lines to display content and a maximum refresh rate of 30 times per second. My old Sampo set actually had extra electronics in it to provide "native 720p60" HD support. That means (like how 480p is handled on the 960) it would display all 720 lines of source input using the 1080 lines on the screen, refreshing those 720 lines 60 times per second, which is what 720p60 HD demands.

The 960 doesn't contain this electronic capability for "native 720p60" support as it can only refresh the screen 30 times per second. So it converts 720p60 input into 1080i for display, displaying alternating even/odd 360 source input line pairs at a time, within two pairs of 540 screen display line sets, with each alternating set of 540 lines refreshed on the screen 30 times per second. Yes, input 720p60 is accepted, but it is not displayed as true 720p60 like the Sampo did. Instead 720p60 HD input is interlaced by the 960 electronics for presentation, and is displayed as interlaced 1080i.

(I'm pretty sure I've got this right).


----------



## hipper

JA Fant said:


> Welcome! hipper


Thank you! 



Floydage said:


> My Panny 34" HD CRT does 480p. I 'thought' the same for this and many, if not all, others. DSperber replied up above that he once had a Sampo that did 720p.


What model HD-CRT do you have?

I should've known Sony would cheap out and not give us progressive-scan (not even 480p) on any of their alleged "HD" CRT TVs.


----------



## hipper

DSperber said:


> The 960's input electronics support INPUT source resolutions of 480i, 480p30, 720p60 and 1080i source. You cannot feed it 1080p.
> 
> And of course, its composite and S-video inputs support only 480i input. For 480p, 720p and 1080i, you must use either its component video input or its HDMI input.
> 
> The 960 has a "native resolution" of 1080i. That means it has a maximum of 1080 lines of electron beams projected onto the screen by the electron gun, and that at that maximum resolution there will be alternating "interlaced" sets of the even/odd 540 lines at a time, each set of 540 lines sent out to the screen 30 times per second. A CRT monitor can display an image at any "display (aka "source input") resolution" at or below its maximum "native resolution". The electron beam is "scaled up" if necessary in order to utilize the complete 34" diagonal screen area available for the image being displayed, subject to some service menu adjustable "overscan" around the perimeter designed to reduce negative visual artifacts of projecting the electron beam from a conceptual point source onto a flat rectangular screen. The adjustable overscan "magnifies larger" the actual displayed image typically anywhere from 0-10% to try and eliminate the worst artifacts which appear at the extreme edges of the electron beam image which are now no longer physically visible on the screen.
> 
> 
> Because scanline-based CRTs are analog in nature they can vary their display CRTs provide a variability in resolution that fixed resolution pixel-based LCDs cannot provide. The 960 eliminates its "interlaced" function when the input is 480p, so 480p30 input (e.g. from old video games) is presented using 540 display lines (which holds the complete 480 lines of source input) 30 times per second so that there is no visible "flicker" at all. This is what made (and still makes) the 960 desirable for early gamers. As a matter of fact, I was able to sell my own 960 last year (located here in LA) to a buyer in Oklahoma who was willing to pay for crating and shipping (by a mover) halfway across the country, so that he could have this set for him and his son to play old video games on... at a "true progressive 480p" non-flicker no-delay only possible with old analog CRT-based sets.
> 
> So you could say 480p30 input is displayed at a "native 480p" within 540 screen lines completely refreshed 30 times per second. Zero flicker. In contrast, the 960 displays the 1080 screen lines of 1080i input exactly as one would expect, namely displaying all 1080 lines of input as two alternating interlaced sets of even/odd 540 screen lines, presenting each set of 540 lines 30 times per second.
> 
> 720p is obviously its own problem for an analog CRT that has 1080 screen lines to display content and a maximum refresh rate of 30 times per second. My old Sampo set actually had extra electronics in it to provide "native 720p60" HD support. That means (like how 480p is handled on the 960) it would display all 720 lines of source input using the 1080 lines on the screen, refreshing those 720 lines 60 times per second, which is what 720p60 HD demands.
> 
> The 960 doesn't contain this electronic capability for "native 720p60" support as it can only refresh the screen 30 times per second. So it converts 720p60 input into 1080i for display, displaying alternating even/odd 360 source input line pairs at a time, within two pairs of 540 screen display line sets, with each alternating set of 540 lines refreshed on the screen 30 times per second. Yes, input 720p60 is accepted, but it is not displayed as true 720p60 like the Sampo did. Instead 720p60 HD input is interlaced by the 960 electronics for presentation, and is displayed as interlaced 1080i.
> 
> (I'm pretty sure I've got this right).


But according to raouliii and his Sony manual, the 960 converts everything (including 480p) to 1080i. A fixed 1080i only TV like the 960 can't be good for video games.


----------



## DSperber

hipper said:


> What model HD-CRT do you have?
> 
> I should've known Sony would cheap out and not give us progressive-scan (not even 480p) on any of their alleged "HD" CRT TVs.


I don't follow why you would say this.

As I stated above...

480p30 source input via component video and HDMI IS supported as supported source input by the 960. And it also actually IS displayed as "native progressive 480p30". It is not interlaced for display, but instead is handled with its full 480 lines presented within a 540 line "frame" sent to the screen 30 times per second, just as progressive-scan 480p30 should be handled. But then 480p30 is not technically considered HDTV. It is considered "enhanced definition TV (EDTV)".

Higher HDTV source resolutions of 720p60 and 1080i30 are accepted as input to the 960 via component video and HDMI, but are both displayed using the 960's native resolution of 1080i30 (interlaced 540 even/odd screen lines, each alternatingly presented 30 times per second).


----------



## hipper

If raouliii and the Sony training manual are 100% correct about the XBR960 converting everything to 1080i, wouldn't that make the XBR960 one of the worst TVs for gaming? Even worse than a LCD? Since the XBR960 will not only have lag from it's native 1080i, but will add even more lag from converting everything to 1080i.


----------



## hipper

DSperber,

I can't reply to you directly. My replies never show up for some reason.

I wanted to tell you that according to the Sony training manual, the XBR960 other Sony HD-CRTs convert everything to 1080i including 480p.


----------



## hipper

> As I stated above...
> 
> 480p30 source input via component video and HDMI IS supported as supported source input by the 960. And it also actually IS displayed as "native progressive 480p30". It is not interlaced for display, but instead is handled with its full 480 lines presented within a 540 line "frame" sent to the screen 30 times per second, just as progressive-scan 480p30 should be handled. But then 480p30 is not technically considered HDTV. It is considered "enhanced definition TV (EDTV)".


The 960 (like all other DA-4 Sony TVs) can accept 480p, but it can't actually display it. Because,

From the Sony training manual:


> "All video processing is performed on the B-board (DRC and MID processing).
> The DRC circuit will double the horizontal frequency for input signals with 15.75KHz (NTSC) horizontal inputs. *The MID circuit will up-convert the horizontal frequency of the input signal to 33.75KHz, which is the scan rate of the DA-4 and DA-4X chassis.* Table 5-2 shows the signal standard and its associate horizontal frequency.
> 
> Table 5-2 - Input Signal Standard and Horizontal Frequency
> Input Signal Horizontal Frequency
> Standard NTSC 480i 15.534KHz
> *High Resolution 480p 31.5KHz*
> High Resolution 720p 45KHz
> *High Resolution 1080i 33.75KHz*
> 
> *The following is a description of the signal flow for each standard listed in Table 5-2:*
> · 15.734KHz input: DRC circuit up-converts to 31.5KHz and MID circuit up-converters to 33.75KHz
> · *31.5KHz input: MID circuit up-converts to 33.75KHz*
> · 33.75KHz input: XBR, HV pass through MID; HS bypass MID circuit
> · 45KHz input: MID circuit down-converts to 33.75KHz


This is very cheap and lazy on Sony's part. Just upscale everything to the TV's native 1080i, screw quality, right Sony? I've heard the XBR960 can't even resolve the full 1920x1080i. To think Sony was asking well over 2 grand in 2004 for this interlaced monstrosity.


----------



## DSperber

I'm not an engineer, and I don't play one on TV.

But if the 960 has the ability to present 540 lines at a time at a rate of 30 times per second, then 1080i can be displayed by the alternating display of even/odd sets of 540 lines at a time, each set alternately refreshed 30 times per second. All 1080 input lines are presented 540 lines at a time, each set of 540 alternately presented 30 times per second. That's what 1080i30 means.

480p30 is different. If you take the 480 "informational" lines of 480p30 source image input, and you place them in 540 screen lines since the 960 presents 540 lines at a time, and you throw out the same 540 lines to the screen 30 times per second, is that not the definition of "progressive"... namely the same 100% of all input lines refreshed over and over to the screen at 30 refreshes per second, rather than "interlaced" where alternating even/odd input lines are refreshed 30 times per second? Sure, it's not 60 refreshes per second of all lines like 720p60 would be presented on an LCD set, but it's a CRT that refreshes at 30 times per second. So presenting the same 540 lines (containing 100% of the source 480 lines) 30 times per second is 480p30.

480p30 is not being "interlaced" for display at 1080i with 30 refreshes per second of alternating sets of even/odd input lines (e.g. only 240 at a time) being presented. Instead, the identical same 540 lines (containing all of the 480 input lines) are being presented over and over 30 times per second. How is that not 480p30 "progressive"? That's precisely the definition of "progressive".


----------



## Floydage

hipper said:


> Thank you!
> 
> 
> What model HD-CRT do you have?
> 
> I should've known Sony would cheap out and not give us progressive-scan (not even 480p) on any of their alleged "HD" CRT TVs.


CT-34WX50. There were later models with upgraded tech as time went on; mine doesn't have DVI or HDMI. I know there's a WX54, the other ones I don't know. These are lacking in forum threads unlike the Sonys. I'm speculating that it natively displays 480p due to its behavior, but I don't know for sure (I'm not a gamer). Mine does have a Game mode in its menu.

This Sony issue, I don't know who's correct. Is that document info for a 960, is it correct (i.e. it's copy&paste), and is it being interpreted properly? And there are older versions of this set as well as a 'newer' one and last one released (970 - could have been a cost-reduced version to compete with the onslaught of plasmas, etc. at the time as it doesn't have the SFP tube). What I do know from reading this forum is that they love it for gaming.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FD_Trinitron/WEGA


----------



## JA Fant

Floydage said:


> CT-34WX50. There were later models with upgraded tech as time went on; mine doesn't have DVI or HDMI. I know there's a WX54, the other ones I don't know. These are lacking in forum threads unlike the Sonys. I'm speculating that it natively displays 480p due to its behavior, but I don't know for sure (I'm not a gamer). Mine does have a Game mode in its menu.
> 
> This Sony issue, I don't know who's correct. Is that document info for a 960, is it correct (i.e. it's copy&paste), and is it being interpreted properly? And there are older versions of this set as well as a 'newer' one and last one released (970 - could have been a cost-reduced version to compete with the onslaught of plasmas, etc. at the time as it doesn't have the SFP tube). What I do know from reading this forum is that they love it for gaming.
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FD_Trinitron/WEGA


Floydage-
I was thinking that you owned a 960 calibrated by DSperber?


----------



## Floydage

JA Fant said:


> Floydage-
> I was thinking that you owned a 960 calibrated by DSperber?


Not me, he sold it to someone in Oklahoma who actually had it shipped. And DSperber isn't a calibrator per se that I know of but he did have it professionally calibrated by someone called D-Nice (sp?); west coaster I believe. D confusion. 

I do have a Sony KV-20FS120. Great little TV for the office. Practically looks HD at this small size and actually has a component input; has an enhanced res. function that bumps it up to 500-something in wide mode (but a 4:3 TV). Unfortunately no s-video port so I have to run my CECB composite, but still looks great.


----------



## hipper

DSperber said:


> I'm not an engineer, and I don't play one on TV.
> 
> But if the 960 has the ability to present 540 lines at a time at a rate of 30 times per second, then 1080i can be displayed by the alternating display of even/odd sets of 540 lines at a time, each set alternately refreshed 30 times per second. All 1080 input lines are presented 540 lines at a time, each set of 540 alternately presented 30 times per second. That's what 1080i30 means.
> 
> 480p30 is different. If you take the 480 "informational" lines of 480p30 source image input, and you place them in 540 screen lines since the 960 presents 540 lines at a time, and you throw out the same 540 lines to the screen 30 times per second, is that not the definition of "progressive"... namely the same 100% of all input lines refreshed over and over to the screen at 30 refreshes per second, rather than "interlaced" where alternating even/odd input lines are refreshed 30 times per second? Sure, it's not 60 refreshes per second of all lines like 720p60 would be presented on an LCD set, but it's a CRT that refreshes at 30 times per second. So presenting the same 540 lines (containing 100% of the source 480 lines) 30 times per second is 480p30.
> 
> 480p30 is not being "interlaced" for display at 1080i with 30 refreshes per second of alternating sets of even/odd input lines (e.g. only 240 at a time) being presented. Instead, the identical same 540 lines (containing all of the 480 input lines) are being presented over and over 30 times per second. How is that not 480p30 "progressive"? That's precisely the definition of "progressive".


But if the XBR960's scan rate is always 33.75KHz, doesn't that mean an up-conversion to 1080i?


----------



## hipper

Here's the Sony DA-4 chassis training manual (on page 48):
http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/avreceivertech/2009-01-07_161742_KV40XBR800_L5_TM_sm.pdf

This manual predates the XBR960, However, the XBR960 has the DA-4 chassis.


----------



## DSperber

hipper said:


> But if the XBR960's scan rate is always 33.75KHz, doesn't that mean an up-conversion to 1080i?


I don't think this is apples-to-apples. The scan rates aren't describing the presentation method for all input source lines when that source line number is 480, 720 or 1080. It's describing how the electron gun can spray out 540 lines at a time to the screen, with whatever populates those lines.

For 720 and 1080 line input, two 540 line frames would be needed (populated alternatingly with even/odd line pairs with each pair refreshed 30 times per second). But with 480 line input, only one 540 line frame would be needed to hold them all (i.e. 480p) or for 480i input you'd place 240 even/odd lines at a time in that 540 line frame and again alternatingly present them 30 times per second. 

As I understand it, "interlaced" specifically means half of (i.e. even numbered) the input source lines are presented at one time on the screen, followed by the other half of (i.e. odd numbered) the input source lines, alternating, occurring 30 times per second. On the 960 which has potential for 1080 screen scan lines of information, the scan rate supports only 540 lines at a time being presented 30 times per second.

In contrast, "progressive" specifically means that ALL of the input source lines are presented at one time on the screen, and refreshed at 30 times per second (for old CRT's) assuming the display hardware can do that.

That means when presenting 1080i source only 540 even lines are presented first, and then 540 odd lines are presented, 30 times per second. I think this is where the 33.76KHz scan rate comes into the discussion: 540 lines at 30 refreshes per second.

Now we all remember how the picture improved when DVDs where upgraded to present 480p "progressive", whereas previously they only presented 480i "interlaced" (like NTSC TV). That meant instead of presenting alternating even/odd 240 lines at a times 30 time a second from the original 480 line source image, now all 480 lines at a time would be presented 30 times a second. Our brains and eyes were not asked to process alternating even/odd 240 lines at a time and be asked to both (a) merge the even/odd line information, as well as (b) "eliminate "flicker". Instead, now there would simply be nothing to merge and "no flicker" at all. The complete 480 lines of source input information was thrown out to the screen 30 times per second.

As I understand it, the 960 handling of 480p source is similar to the 480p progressive-scan DVD players, since all 480 input lines can fit into one 540-lines-at-a-time flash frame out to the screen 30 times per second (i.e. 33.75KHz scan rate). There's no need to divide the source in half and only display 240 lines at a time, since all 480 can be presented at once within the 540 line frame. Yes, if the source were 1080i and your electron gun could only shoot out 540 screen lines at a time (to eventually populate the screen's 1080 lines 540 at a time via even/odd interlacing), you'd need to use "even/odd interlacing" as the presentation method. Similarly with 720p, which again can't all be displayed at one time due to the 540 line limit of the 960. But with 480p source all 480 lines can be presented at a time within the 540 frame of the 960, and at a rate of 30 times per second... with no even/odd interlacing required. I believe that's how 480p30 source is handled on the 960... with no odd/even interlacing of source lines but instead all 480 input lines presented at one time.

Progressive.

(I'm willing to hear or be pointed to a more analytical and technical dissertation, to "defend" the 480p approach of the 960 as I believe is attested to by generations of "gamers" who seek out this set to play old 480p video games with zero flicker or delay. Yes, 720p60 HDTV is handled as 1080i due to the 540 lines-at-a-time limitation of the 960's electron gun. But 480p input has no such constraint.)


----------



## hipper

DSperber said:


> I don't think this is apples-to-apples. The scan rates aren't describing the presentation method for all input source lines when that source line number is 480, 720 or 1080. It's describing how the electron gun can spray out 540 lines at a time to the screen, with whatever populates those lines.
> 
> For 720 and 1080 line input, two 540 line frames would be needed (populated alternatingly with even/odd line pairs with each pair refreshed 30 times per second). But with 480 line input, only one 540 line frame would be needed to hold them all (i.e. 480p) or for 480i input you'd place 240 even/odd lines at a time in that 540 line frame and again alternatingly present them 30 times per second.
> 
> As I understand it, "interlaced" specifically means half of (i.e. even numbered) the input source lines are presented at one time on the screen, followed by the other half of (i.e. odd numbered) the input source lines, alternating, occurring 30 times per second. On the 960 which has potential for 1080 screen scan lines of information, the scan rate supports only 540 lines at a time being presented 30 times per second.
> 
> In contrast, "progressive" specifically means that ALL of the input source lines are presented at one time on the screen, and refreshed at 30 times per second (for old CRT's) assuming the display hardware can do that.
> 
> That means when presenting 1080i source only 540 even lines are presented first, and then 540 odd lines are presented, 30 times per second. I think this is where the 33.76KHz scan rate comes into the discussion: 540 lines at 30 refreshes per second.
> 
> Now we all remember how the picture improved when DVDs where upgraded to present 480p "progressive", whereas previously they only presented 480i "interlaced" (like NTSC TV). That meant instead of presenting alternating even/odd 240 lines at a times 30 time a second from the original 480 line source image, now all 480 lines at a time would be presented 30 times a second. Our brains and eyes were not asked to process alternating even/odd 240 lines at a time and be asked to both (a) merge the even/odd line information, as well as (b) "eliminate "flicker". Instead, now there would simply be nothing to merge and "no flicker" at all. The complete 480 lines of source input information was thrown out to the screen 30 times per second.
> 
> As I understand it, the 960 handling of 480p source is similar to the 480p progressive-scan DVD players, since all 480 input lines can fit into one 540-lines-at-a-time flash frame out to the screen 30 times per second (i.e. 33.75KHz scan rate). There's no need to divide the source in half and only display 240 lines at a time, since all 480 can be presented at once within the 540 line frame. Yes, if the source were 1080i and your electron gun could only shoot out 540 screen lines at a time (to eventually populate the screen's 1080 lines 540 at a time via even/odd interlacing), you'd need to use "even/odd interlacing" as the presentation method. Similarly with 720p, which again can't all be displayed at one time due to the 540 line limit of the 960. But with 480p source all 480 lines can be presented at a time within the 540 frame of the 960, and at a rate of 30 times per second... with no even/odd interlacing required. I believe that's how 480p30 source is handled on the 960... with no odd/even interlacing of source lines but instead all 480 input lines presented at one time.
> 
> Progressive.
> 
> (I'm willing to hear or be pointed to a more analytical and technical dissertation, to "defend" the 480p approach of the 960 as I believe is attested to by generations of "gamers" who seek out this set to play old 480p video games with zero flicker or delay. Yes, 720p60 HDTV is handled as 1080i due to the 540 lines-at-a-time limitation of the 960's electron gun. But 480p input has no such constraint.)


So the 960 isn't taking 480p and up-converting it to 2 interlaced 540 line frames? What about 480p games that run 60fps? Do those get chopped down to 30fps?


----------



## JA Fant

hipper said:


> So the 960 isn't taking 480p and up-converting it to 2 interlaced 540 line frames? What about 480p games that run 60fps? Do those get chopped down to 30fps?


Excellent banter- hipper and DSperber


----------



## rvxq

*Motion Resolution and Input Lag test results*

Has anyone seen any test results on the KD-34XBR960 for Motion Resolution and Input Lag?

I often see modern TVs (e.g., LCD and OLED) tested on motion resolution and input lag. Were similar tests ever done on the XBR960? What scores did it get?


----------



## newbtube

*Weird HDMI Color Issues*

I recently acquired a 34xbr960 and the HDMI port does not appear to be working correctly. When I plug in a device (xbox 360, Roku, Nintendo Switch set to output 720p) via HDMI the picture looks nice and clear but the colors are way off with apparently no blue color showing. My Xbox 360 worked fine via component. I tried a different HDMI cable and had the same issue. Has anyone else run into this issue?


----------



## Warbird7

Folks,
I am getting rid of, as in throwing out, my 34xbr960.
I long since placed a 50" LCD in front of it, and have not gone back.
Anyone is welcome to come and pick it up in Weston MA.
It is in perfect working order.
Call any time.
Michael
c617-771-2732


----------



## JA Fant

rvxq said:


> Has anyone seen any test results on the KD-34XBR960 for Motion Resolution and Input Lag?
> 
> I often see modern TVs (e.g., LCD and OLED) tested on motion resolution and input lag. Were similar tests ever done on the XBR960? What scores did it get?


Welcome! rvxq
I am not aware of such testing. Perhaps an ISF calibrator can answer your query?


----------



## JA Fant

newbtube said:


> I recently acquired a 34xbr960 and the HDMI port does not appear to be working correctly. When I plug in a device (xbox 360, Roku, Nintendo Switch set to output 720p) via HDMI the picture looks nice and clear but the colors are way off with apparently no blue color showing. My Xbox 360 worked fine via component. I tried a different HDMI cable and had the same issue. Has anyone else run into this issue?


Welcome! newbtube
do you have a TV repair shop near you? Perhaps a tech could check out your 960.


----------



## JA Fant

Warbird7 said:


> Folks,
> I am getting rid of, as in throwing out, my 34xbr960.
> I long since placed a 50" LCD in front of it, and have not gone back.
> Anyone is welcome to come and pick it up in Weston MA.
> It is in perfect working order.
> Call any time.
> Michael
> c617-771-2732


Thanks! for sharing- Michael. Hope your 960 finds a new home. These CRT sets are too wonderful to discard.


----------



## 34-hfx-83

Is there a way to check how many hours the XBR960 CRT has and how many times the display was turned on/off in the service menu?


----------



## JA Fant

34-hfx-83 said:


> Is there a way to check how many hours the XBR960 CRT has and how many times the display was turned on/off in the service menu?


Very nice query- I would be interested in learning more about this as well.
Perhaps one of those guys who do the ISF Calibrations on these older CRT sets knows an answer?


----------



## exitfromreality

Hoping someone might know what could help me out. I have a 34XBR910 (it's a 960 with DVI instead of HDMI) and it's just started acting up. I've already had the "wont turn on" problem that requires replacing the 2 ICs on the main board, and I've even replaced the main caps and accompanying resistors on the mainboard but this last problem still persists.

After the TV has been on awhile the screen will flash red, sometimes green for a split second, and eventually as the flashing gets more common the TV shuts itself off and gives me the 7 blink error code. Pretty much everything I've ever read about the 6 or 7 blink error code says replace the 2 ICs I've already replaced.

An other options to try?


----------



## JA Fant

exitfromreality said:


> Hoping someone might know what could help me out. I have a 34XBR910 (it's a 960 with DVI instead of HDMI) and it's just started acting up. I've already had the "wont turn on" problem that requires replacing the 2 ICs on the main board, and I've even replaced the main caps and accompanying resistors on the mainboard but this last problem still persists.
> 
> After the TV has been on awhile the screen will flash red, sometimes green for a split second, and eventually as the flashing gets more common the TV shuts itself off and gives me the 7 blink error code. Pretty much everything I've ever read about the 6 or 7 blink error code says replace the 2 ICs I've already replaced.
> 
> An other options to try?


Welcome! the XBR910 is still a sweet set. I wanted to inquire about the IC and main caps- where did you buy those parts?
I want to say that there is a "910" thread here on AVS- have you read and searched through it?
Hopefully, one the experts here can assist you.


----------



## Jeb_Leeds

*New kd-34xbr960 owner questions*

Hi,

New kd-34xbr960 owner, i'm going to pick it up in a couple of weeks. As someone who has no idea what he's getting himself into I wanted to ask if there are any known issues I should look for off the bat when I set it up / turn it on? The seller said it is in excellent quality but I wont really know until I test it myself. Also if there is any suggestions as far as upkeep or services that can calibrate / do repairs if something does go eventually. I'd like the tv to last but not sure if the TV is even repairable to begin with. Anyone who can give some good info or point me in the right direction, would be appreciated, thanks.

-J


----------



## Ungermann

DSperber said:


> But if the 960 has the ability to present 540 lines at a time at a rate of 30 times per second, then 1080i can be displayed by the alternating display of even/odd sets of 540 lines at a time, each set alternately refreshed 30 times per second. All 1080 input lines are presented 540 lines at a time, each set of 540 alternately presented 30 times per second. That's what 1080i30 means.


10 years before this model came out, European PALPlus TV sets were widescreen, progressive, with 100Hz frame frequency. This TV, being 10 years later model, should have done better, should have done at least 1080p60. 1080p120 would be even better to reduce flicker.

Someone is selling this model nearby for $300, I think they are crazy. I would not pay $100 for it.



DSperber said:


> In contrast, "progressive" specifically means that ALL of the input source lines are presented at one time on the screen, and refreshed at 30 times per second (for old CRT's) assuming the display hardware can do that.


Progressive simply means there is no interlacing, it does not assume specific frame rate. Refreshing the screen 30 times a second would make screen flicker intolerable, this is why interlacing was invented at the first place - to increase rate of the refresh. Of course, 60p would be even better, but at that time they did not have electronics good enough to cope with double the bandwidth. And they wanted to save the bandwidth as well, although compared to the French 14 MHz of their 819-line TV, 12 MHz would not be too bad.



DSperber said:


> Now we all remember how the picture improved when DVDs where upgraded to present 480p "progressive", whereas previously they only presented 480i "interlaced" (like NTSC TV). That meant instead of presenting alternating even/odd 240 lines at a times 30 time a second from the original 480 line source image, now all 480 lines at a time would be presented 30 times a second. Our brains and eyes were not asked to process alternating even/odd 240 lines at a time and be asked to both (a) merge the even/odd line information, as well as (b) "eliminate "flicker". Instead, now there would simply be nothing to merge and "no flicker" at all. The complete 480 lines of source input information was thrown out to the screen 30 times per second.


24fps, not 30fps. But unless a TV switched to 48Hz or 72Hz native refresh rate, these 24fps were be converted to native 60Hz refresh, so 2-3 judder did not go anywhere. At least the interline twitter was fixed. BTW, it seems you are confusing screen flicker, caused by low refresh rate, with interline twitter, caused by meshing of the fields.


----------



## JA Fant

Jeb_Leeds said:


> Hi,
> 
> New kd-34xbr960 owner, i'm going to pick it up in a couple of weeks. As someone who has no idea what he's getting himself into I wanted to ask if there are any known issues I should look for off the bat when I set it up / turn it on? The seller said it is in excellent quality but I wont really know until I test it myself. Also if there is any suggestions as far as upkeep or services that can calibrate / do repairs if something does go eventually. I'd like the tv to last but not sure if the TV is even repairable to begin with. Anyone who can give some good info or point me in the right direction, would be appreciated, thanks.
> 
> -J


Welcome! Jeb-

yes, there are ISF calibrators that still service this TV. Look under the "Display Calibration" thread here on AVS.
Keep me posted.


----------



## Jeb_Leeds

JA Fant said:


> Welcome! Jeb-
> 
> yes, there are ISF calibrators that still service this TV. Look under the "Display Calibration" thread here on AVS.
> Keep me posted.



Thanks for the response, actually I am getting the TV this weekend and wanted to know if two ppl can pick it up or if you need a third. Both of us are fairly strong but 196lbs is alot! Was thinking of getting one of those arm strap things that two people can sling under the item. Any moving suggestions would be good. Also I happen to have a memory stick duo and was curious if the reader on the front can read movies through the memory stick or if that is not the best way to watch movies on it. Also what format will it read mp4?


----------



## JA Fant

Jeb_Leeds said:


> Thanks for the response, actually I am getting the TV this weekend and wanted to know if two ppl can pick it up or if you need a third. Both of us are fairly strong but 196lbs is alot! Was thinking of getting one of those arm strap things that two people can sling under the item. Any moving suggestions would be good. Also I happen to have a memory stick duo and was curious if the reader on the front can read movies through the memory stick or if that is not the best way to watch movies on it. Also what format will it read mp4?


A 3rd man is strongly (no pun) suggested. You would not want to drop this tv! 
Not sure about the memory stick feature? I have never used it on my 960N because my cable provider has never offered this option.
I suspect that it could act in many ways in 2017.


----------



## Kxtr73

Hello from Poland. I wanted to show off some of mine Sony retro's too. The "Golden Trio" avaiable at this shore of Atlantic 

Sony *KD-34XBR960 *? No - my lately acquired for 50 USD his EU brother *KD-36HQ100 *with the same 34' (US markings) SFP tube . In EU it's called 36' tube.

It can do at max 1024x576i but at 100 Hz connected to PC by VGA -> SCART RGB cable. As I see his housing and table is a little different from US models.










Yea - it's not 1080i XBR, but when Full HD is needed then Sony KDS 55A2000 SXRD is in a backup (a top one at second picture) ;-) He need a new blue LCD chip , becouse some "green blob" on his left side.

And PC monitor is of course famous Sony 24' FW900. However now in repair, waiting to a Mitsubishi chip from US. Anyway mine new tactics is buying not working copies of those 3, to have a cheap spare parts for a future ;-) As a first clone I just got today not working HQ100 for 15 USD. Still, from time to time other two model are avaiable in my country too, often in a very good prices. To collect all 3 it took me 2 years of constant searching of adverts and I driven houndreads of miles to get them home in one piece... (as opposed to playing in casino at courier's freight). 

I want to get them to perfect condition with all original avaible equipment. I miss only stand for 55A2000, but still searching for it. Soon I will move to another bigger place and have plans for doing some kind of "private museum" for them. To be always in touch of the glory of this amazing, old technology


----------



## zzwerzy

I am in Northern California and am looking for a local tech (N. SF Bay Area) that knows how to check and adjust this set. Right now the focus is getting poor. Easy enough, if all I have to do is dink with the VR on the chassis. But if it's more than that, I'll need someone who still has the equipment and knowledge to make adjustments to convergence, white balance, and etcetera. Anybody here know someone who fits that description, or a source where I might find a list of qualified people?

Thank you very much
zzwerzy


----------



## Jeb_Leeds

*Recently Acquired KD-34xbr960*

Recently picked up one of these TV's and figured would post some photos. It definitely has the film on it, the left side of the image is a little curved down with the ///++++++ Issue I saw posted here 

And the widescreen is cropping a little off the image (see the breath of the wild image) Actually if anyone knows how to adjust cropping that would be useful to start. I see it in the menu under hd crop however it is greyed out and I cant seem to be able to adjust the image to fit properly. I have been playing with FULL setting, on wii (component), because normal setting reverts it to 4:3 perhaps that is where the cropping is coming from. Anyway im most impressed with this set with the modern consoles surprisingly, zelda looks sooo much more colorful than on my flat screen or even my ips monitor. Im probably gonna switch all systems over to this because the color and depth is so nice


----------



## Jeb_Leeds

*480p Tho*

Is the tv truly doing 480p though? I went back and read about the discussion regarding the tv up-converting 480p to 540p, and on the other side I saw people saying it was turning 480p into 1080i. Is there a consensus on this yet? I do notice some pretty jagged edges particularly on the diagonal lines, but I am not used to seeing 480p blown up onto 34" so that might just be my adjusting down from regularly seeing 1080p content. On the other hand I notice the switch through the hdmi is extremely crisp, looks just like 1080p so perhaps that is 1080i. Will tinker around with it more tonight, but first impressions for wii / gamecube are still middle of the road.


----------



## Ratman

Jeb_Leeds said:


> Is the tv truly doing 480p though? I went back and read about the discussion regarding the tv up-converting 480p to 540p, and on the other side I saw people saying it was turning 480p into 1080i. Is there a consensus on this yet? .


Typically, with HD-CRT's, the native resolution is 540p. 
480i is deinterlaced to display 540p.
Only 480 lines of resolution are visible due to overscan.
1080i content is re-interlaced allow 540p to produce 1080i resolution.


----------



## Jeb_Leeds

Ok so after further tinkering with the settings I noticed a VAST improvement in the tv. My main reason for getting this tv was to play the old 480p GC / Wii games but since I read up on so much about trinitrons I figured would get a cheap desk sized 20fs100 (which has component) as well just to test the two. After a snowy weekend full of some mario sunshine and galaxy I can easily say the 480p on the xbr960 absolutely blows the SD 20fs100 out of the water. Biggest things I noticed on the sd tv was the distance got way too blurry, foreground was good but it would also give me headaches and also emitted that terrible 60hz hiss. The xbr960 shows a damn crisp 480p and allows some games to go 16:9, i'm absolutely a fan of this tv now. One thing I would like to do is get it calibrated, I definitely notice overscan and some bending on the corner, is there a forum or suggestion for the best way to get a service person to look at it?


----------



## Ratman

Jeb_Leeds said:


> One thing I would like to do is get it calibrated, I definitely notice overscan and some bending on the corner, is there a forum or suggestion for the best way to get a service person to look at it?


If you have a disposible income, start here: 


http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/


----------



## DSperber

Jeb_Leeds said:


> i'm absolutely a fan of this tv now. One thing I would like to do is get it calibrated, I definitely notice overscan and some bending on the corner, is there a forum or suggestion for the best way to get a service person to look at it?


This IS the official forum for owners of the 960!! And the discussion has been going for over 13 years.

You might check a post of mine in this thread from back in early 2015, which I think you will find helpful. It includes a spreadsheet that provides my own settings for both User Menu as well as Service Menu, but that old version is out-of-date. So I'm attaching an up-to-date XLSX to this post which you can refer to, and maybe start from. Just remember that unlike digital pixel-centric flatscreen TV models which are pretty uniformly consistent across each unit of that model, every CRT analog set is different, so my numbers may produce inferior results on your 960.

For example, I had a "magnet job" done on the picture tube when I bought my 960 to correct "curvature", since the Service Menu tweaks in the 960 cannot correct that type of artifact. But I did address other geometry issues, like overcan, which can be addressed in the Service Menu... albeit always subject to the effects of the "magnet job".

But at least it's something to look at and start from.

There still are highly regarded national ISF calibrators who can deal with the 960 (primarily addressing color, but also with geometry to some extent). But finding a Sony-trained qualified technician today who can perform a proper "magnet job" on an analog CRT picture tube if that's needed, well that's another matter entirely. Again, every CRT set is its own adventure.


----------



## Jeb_Leeds

DSperber said:


> This IS the official forum for owners of the 960!! And the discussion has been going for over 13 years.
> 
> You might check a post of mine in this thread from back in early 2015, which I think you will find helpful. It includes a spreadsheet that provides my own settings for both User Menu as well as Service Menu, but that old version is out-of-date. So I'm attaching an up-to-date XLSX to this post which you can refer to, and maybe start from. Just remember that unlike digital pixel-centric flatscreen TV models which are pretty uniformly consistent across each unit of that model, every CRT analog set is different, so my numbers may produce inferior results on your 960.
> 
> For example, I had a "magnet job" done on the picture tube when I bought my 960 to correct "curvature", since the Service Menu tweaks in the 960 cannot correct that type of artifact. But I did address other geometry issues, like overcan, which can be addressed in the Service Menu... albeit always subject to the effects of the "magnet job".
> 
> But at least it's something to look at and start from.
> 
> There still are highly regarded national ISF calibrators who can deal with the 960 (primarily addressing color, but also with geometry to some extent). But finding a Sony-trained qualified technician today who can perform a proper "magnet job" on an analog CRT picture tube if that's needed, well that's another matter entirely. Again, every CRT set is its own adventure.


Thanks! ill double check those values later. Really the geometry stuff is the issue, but it's not too noticeable. Just didn't want to get into the service settings and screw up the tv permanently. Actually the guy who sold me the 20fs100 said his father used to do the magnet repairs but he passed  but he was interested to hear someone asking about it. But man this set is way better than I thought it could be, here are some more shots of it running bioshock.


----------



## JA Fant

Kxtr73 said:


> Hello from Poland. I wanted to show off some of mine Sony retro's too. The "Golden Trio" avaiable at this shore of Atlantic
> 
> Sony *KD-34XBR960 *? No - my lately acquired for 50 USD his EU brother *KD-36HQ100 *with the same 34' (US markings) SFP tube . In EU it's called 36' tube.
> 
> It can do at max 1024x576i but at 100 Hz connected to PC by VGA -> SCART RGB cable. As I see his housing and table is a little different from US models.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yea - it's not 1080i XBR, but when Full HD is needed then Sony KDS 55A2000 SXRD is in a backup (a top one at second picture) ;-) He need a new blue LCD chip , becouse some "green blob" on his left side.
> 
> And PC monitor is of course famous Sony 24' FW900. However now in repair, waiting to a Mitsubishi chip from US. Anyway mine new tactics is buying not working copies of those 3, to have a cheap spare parts for a future ;-) As a first clone I just got today not working HQ100 for 15 USD. Still, from time to time other two model are avaiable in my country too, often in a very good prices. To collect all 3 it took me 2 years of constant searching of adverts and I driven houndreads of miles to get them home in one piece... (as opposed to playing in casino at courier's freight).
> 
> I want to get them to perfect condition with all original avaible equipment. I miss only stand for 55A2000, but still searching for it. Soon I will move to another bigger place and have plans for doing some kind of "private museum" for them. To be always in touch of the glory of this amazing, old technology


Beautiful


----------



## JA Fant

zzwerzy said:


> I am in Northern California and am looking for a local tech (N. SF Bay Area) that knows how to check and adjust this set. Right now the focus is getting poor. Easy enough, if all I have to do is dink with the VR on the chassis. But if it's more than that, I'll need someone who still has the equipment and knowledge to make adjustments to convergence, white balance, and etcetera. Anybody here know someone who fits that description, or a source where I might find a list of qualified people?
> 
> Thank you very much
> zzwerzy


Look under ISF Calibrators section in these forums.
The gentleman named "Mr Bob" is a Sony XBR specialist. He is the San Fran area to boot.


----------



## JA Fant

Jeb_Leeds said:


> Thanks! ill double check those values later. Really the geometry stuff is the issue, but it's not too noticeable. Just didn't want to get into the service settings and screw up the tv permanently. Actually the guy who sold me the 20fs100 said his father used to do the magnet repairs but he passed  but he was interested to hear someone asking about it. But man this set is way better than I thought it could be, here are some more shots of it running bioshock.


This was Sony's all out assault on the traditional CRT, as well all believed circa 2005, that the Plasma TV was the final frontier. 
Good to red that you are enjoying this special tv set


----------



## JA Fant

DSperber said:


> This IS the official forum for owners of the 960!! And the discussion has been going for over 13 years.
> 
> You might check a post of mine in this thread from back in early 2015, which I think you will find helpful. It includes a spreadsheet that provides my own settings for both User Menu as well as Service Menu, but that old version is out-of-date. So I'm attaching an up-to-date XLSX to this post which you can refer to, and maybe start from. Just remember that unlike digital pixel-centric flatscreen TV models which are pretty uniformly consistent across each unit of that model, every CRT analog set is different, so my numbers may produce inferior results on your 960.
> 
> For example, I had a "magnet job" done on the picture tube when I bought my 960 to correct "curvature", since the Service Menu tweaks in the 960 cannot correct that type of artifact. But I did address other geometry issues, like overcan, which can be addressed in the Service Menu... albeit always subject to the effects of the "magnet job".
> 
> But at least it's something to look at and start from.
> 
> There still are highly regarded national ISF calibrators who can deal with the 960 (primarily addressing color, but also with geometry to some extent). But finding a Sony-trained qualified technician today who can perform a proper "magnet job" on an analog CRT picture tube if that's needed, well that's another matter entirely. Again, every CRT set is its own adventure.



Agreed- there are many ISF experts that can calibrate old CRT, even rear projection (Big Screen TV) as well.


----------



## zzwerzy

JA Fant said:


> Look under ISF Calibrators section in these forums.
> The gentleman named "Mr Bob" is a Sony XBR specialist. He is the San Fran area to boot.


Thanks, JA Fant, for the lead on Mr Bob.


----------



## Jeb_Leeds

I'm still interested in testing more wii / gc with this tv. I got two different model wii's and the blue one definitely looks crisper. My friend is going to let me test his wii u on the tv as well to see how the wii u 720p looks on it playing wii. Very random but man the wii is a resolution enigma.


----------



## JA Fant

zzwerzy said:


> Thanks, JA Fant, for the lead on Mr Bob.


Keep me posted zz


----------



## Jeb_Leeds

Tested the kd-34xbr960 with a wii and wii u using component cables. The wii u seems to have a better resolution? (images are easier to see when further away) with a smoother slightly blurry image which helps with jaggies. The wii is noticeably clearer but also introduces more jaggies, much more, also images seem more pixelated and less easy to define from far away. (Wii- 480p vs. Wii U- 1080i and 720p)

My question: does the kd-34xbr960 change a 480p image to 540i or what resolution to fit the widescreen? 480p is 4:3 so there is some converting going on to get 480p to fit widescreen?


----------



## DSperber

Screen mode on the remote (i.e. Zoom). "Normal" is OAR for 4:3, with black bars on left and right.


----------



## Jeb_Leeds

How is the 480p on the 34-xbr960 different than say on a 1080p screen? Does it run native 480p as in the crt gun is literally producing less lines or is it up converting it to 1080i or 540p? Compared to say an hdtv which upconverts it to 1080p but then has to guess what the in between pixels look like.


----------



## Jeb_Leeds

Ok, after further research I found the wii u will actually work better for upscaling these games to fit on the widescreen. Simple question then, run it through the HDMI or through component cables? Which connection should work better for the 34-xbr960?


----------



## DSperber

Jeb_Leeds said:


> Ok, after further research I found the wii u will actually work better for upscaling these games to fit on the widescreen. Simple question then, run it through the HDMI or through component cables? Which connection should work better for the 34-xbr960?


 Who knows? Go ahead and try both.

The CRT is not a pixel-based display device so HDMI input has to be converted to analog for display. Might as well just feed the analog input directly via component and eliminate the D-to-A conversion processing.

But try both, and report which you feel is superior.


----------



## JA Fant

Jeb_Leeds said:


> Ok, after further research I found the wii u will actually work better for upscaling these games to fit on the widescreen. Simple question then, run it through the HDMI or through component cables? Which connection should work better for the 34-xbr960?


Try both ways- Jeb.


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## JA Fant

Happy New Year- All


----------



## Jeb_Leeds

Ok so after testing it's clear, the vWii on Wii u looks much cleaner through component than HDMI and is just as crisp as the regular Wii, just with the added 540 resolution. vWii on wii u through HDMI is doing some 1080i upscaling and also adding some serious jitters, looks very bad. However Wii u on its own through the HDMI also adds jitters while moving but looks amazing and bright compared to Wii u component. So, component for 480p stuff should be the best way, better than I ever remembered these games looking.


----------



## JA Fant

Jeb_Leeds said:


> Ok so after testing it's clear, the vWii on Wii u looks much cleaner through component than HDMI and is just as crisp as the regular Wii, just with the added 540 resolution. vWii on wii u through HDMI is doing some 1080i upscaling and also adding some serious jitters, looks very bad. However Wii u on its own through the HDMI also adds jitters while moving but looks amazing and bright compared to Wii u component. So, component for 480p stuff should be the best way, better than I ever remembered these games looking.


Thanks! for the update - Jeb


----------



## captainsolo

I've had the six blinking light issue for a bit now and my 960 now refuses to turn on and gives only the six light code. I'm guessing this is the IC chip problem other threads refer to? That kind of repair though seemingly simple is way over my head and no one locally that I know of even looks at CRTs let alone XBR hd sets.

Any suggestions?


----------



## JA Fant

captainsolo said:


> I've had the six blinking light issue for a bit now and my 960 now refuses to turn on and gives only the six light code. I'm guessing this is the IC chip problem other threads refer to? That kind of repair though seemingly simple is way over my head and no one locally that I know of even looks at CRTs let alone XBR hd sets.
> 
> Any suggestions?


captainsolo - seek out an ISF Calibration Specialist in your area. Many of those guys know people whom can service CRT sets. Keep me posted.


----------



## Joshua Nicholson

Good Morning

I found a listing of this TV and I was wonder how exactly big and heavy is this TV set?


I'm not that strong so I assume I would need at least two other people to lift it?


----------



## digitalchimes

Joshua Nicholson said:


> Good Morning
> 
> I found a listing of this TV and I was wonder how exactly big and heavy is this TV set?
> 
> 
> I'm not that strong so I assume I would need at least two other people to lift it?


34" screen

300 pounds (not joking)

a little less than 2' deep


----------



## DSperber

digitalchimes said:


> 34" screen
> 
> 300 pounds (not joking)
> 
> a little less than 2' deep


Actually, it's only 200 pounds!


----------



## JA Fant

Joshua Nicholson said:


> Good Morning
> 
> I found a listing of this TV and I was wonder how exactly big and heavy is this TV set?
> 
> 
> I'm not that strong so I assume I would need at least two other people to lift it?


Welcome! Joshua


----------



## JA Fant

digitalchimes said:


> 34" screen
> 
> 300 pounds (not joking)
> 
> a little less than 2' deep


Welcome! digitalchimes


----------



## JA Fant

DSperber said:


> Actually, it's only 200 pounds!


Still, this wonderful set is heavy as Hell


----------



## JA Fant

I suggest (3) people to move it safely and properly. (1) person on each side L and R. The 3rd in front of tv set as the picture tube takes up 2/3 front to back.
Attempt to move and you will understand why (3) is needed.


----------



## artyusmce

Mine went yellow green 5 red flashes 
I fixed 3 years ago 
I think it’s time to say good bye


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## JA Fant

artyusmce said:


> Mine went yellow green 5 red flashes
> I fixed 3 years ago
> I think it’s time to say good bye
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



How did you fix your set?


----------



## artyusmce

JA Fant said:


> How did you fix your set?




I replaced the chip three years ago 
Now when it dies it dies


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JA Fant

artyusmce said:


> I replaced the chip three years ago
> Now when it dies it dies
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Which chip? Part # ? Where did you purchase the chip?


----------



## artyusmce

JA Fant said:


> Which chip? Part # ? Where did you purchase the chip?





artyusmce said:


> _ i replaced the 2- MCZ3001DB chips,_








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## artyusmce

artyusmce said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Look up my Sony won’t power on


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Freeze Time

The 40 inch XBR700 weighed 300 pounds. I know because I used to own one and my friends hated to help me move simply because of that TV.


----------



## vash32

Does anyone have any info on fixing component video inputs on a KD-34XBR960 (Video Inputs 5&6) They just stopped working on day on me, HDMI is working great (as well as the others) Sometime is it does come up on 480i but looks very bad, 480p may pop-up for 3s but see-able. (Makes me think of a sync problem... but don't know)

I'm going to try & see what 720p & 1080i do soon. Any info on this problem will be great.


----------



## JA Fant

vash32 said:


> Does anyone have any info on fixing component video inputs on a KD-34XBR960 (Video Inputs 5&6) They just stopped working on day on me, HDMI is working great (as well as the others) Sometime is it does come up on 480i but looks very bad, 480p may pop-up for 3s but see-able. (Makes me think of a sync problem... but don't know)
> 
> I'm going to try & see what 720p & 1080i do soon. Any info on this problem will be great.


 vash32
you may want to post your query in the Display Calibration section. Possibly one of those ISF guys can provide you guidance. At one time, most of those guys serviced and calibrated CRT sets.


----------



## digitalchimes

JA Fant said:


> Welcome! digitalchimes


thank you


----------



## [email protected]

Hello everyone, I recently bought the 34XBR960 for really cheap from craigslist. So far, I have been very happy with its performance. I can run HD consoles like the Wii U through the HD port at 1080i without a problem.

I have the predecessor to the Wii U, the normal Wii, which I bought when it first came out in November 2006. I am interested in using this with the TV as others have mentioned for the component connection in 480P. The problem is when I connect the Wii in 480P mode with the component cables that I get a effect where the screen flickers a bit and has kind of an undulating waving moire pattern on areas of the screen of the same color. Playing the game like this is just not possible. Did anyone else have this problem when running the wii with component cables on 480P mode?

A strange thing is that the flickering and weird pattern goes away when I switch the console to 480i mode in the console settings. Do you think this is a problem with the TV, the cable I am using, or the Wii?


----------



## JA Fant

[email protected] said:


> Hello everyone, I recently bought the 34XBR960 for really cheap from craigslist. So far, I have been very happy with its performance. I can run HD consoles like the Wii U through the HD port at 1080i without a problem.
> 
> I have the predecessor to the Wii U, the normal Wii, which I bought when it first came out in November 2006. I am interested in using this with the TV as others have mentioned for the component connection in 480P. The problem is when I connect the Wii in 480P mode with the component cables that I get a effect where the screen flickers a bit and has kind of an undulating waving moire pattern on areas of the screen of the same color. Playing the game like this is just not possible. Did anyone else have this problem when running the wii with component cables on 480P mode?
> 
> A strange thing is that the flickering and weird pattern goes away when I switch the console to 480i mode in the console settings. Do you think this is a problem with the TV, the cable I am using, or the Wii?





Welcome! pie


Hope one of the video gamers here can provide assistance to your query


----------



## [email protected]

Thank you JA. I have a small update. I connected my Wii U to the component output with the same cables I was using to connect the normal Wii to the TV's component output and enabled 480p in the settings. The strange thing is, the Wii U works just fine. I can run and enable 480p content with out the screen glitch. This leads me to believe the problem is in the Wii some how. Did anyone else have this problem.

Also, I am going to attempt to remove the antiglare screen. Does anyone have a video of themselves doing this?


----------



## JA Fant

[email protected] said:


> Thank you JA. I have a small update. I connected my Wii U to the component output with the same cables I was using to connect the normal Wii to the TV's component output and enabled 480p in the settings. The strange thing is, the Wii U works just fine. I can run and enable 480p content with out the screen glitch. This leads me to believe the problem is in the Wii some how. Did anyone else have this problem.
> 
> Also, I am going to attempt to remove the antiglare screen. Does anyone have a video of themselves doing this?


Read over this thread, I know it is long, you will find helpful info for removing the anti-glare coating.


----------



## JA Fant

Happy 4th of July


----------



## [email protected]

JA Fant said:


> Read over this thread, I know it is long, you will find helpful info for removing the anti-glare coating.


I have a small update. It seems the monoprice cable I was using for the Wii/Wii U was garbage. I got a better cable and now the wear screen flickering is gone when I am in 480P mode. Now on to remove the anti-glare screen!

I did see the photos in the earlier posts of someone removing the screen, but I am bad with tools and working with my hands. I am afraid I am going to screw it up! I wish I there was a repairperson I could ask to do it for me.


----------



## captainsolo

I still need to get my chips replaced but am terrified of doing it myself. I have the new ones I ordered.


Also, does anyone know of any way to adjust the zoom parameters to avoid overscan? I'd love to adjust this when watching letterboxed content and on my xs955 to play around with zooming 4:3 within the 16:9 border.


----------



## JA Fant

captainsolo said:


> I still need to get my chips replaced but am terrified of doing it myself. I have the new ones I ordered.
> 
> 
> Also, does anyone know of any way to adjust the zoom parameters to avoid overscan? I'd love to adjust this when watching letterboxed content and on my xs955 to play around with zooming 4:3 within the 16:9 border.



captainsolo


seek out an ISF Calibrator in your area for help to your query. Keep us posted on the progress.


----------



## SovietSlayer

Is it proper to calibrate this TV to PC levels (RGB 0-255)?

I hooked up my TV to my PC and set the output to 0-255. I then adjusted the picture (white level) to 120cd/m^2 and brightness (black level) so that the greyscale test pattern looked good. Everything looks good, I can't see any crash issues and gamma is measuring around 2.2 in PRO mode. I also set SBRT to 31 in service mode. Am I good?


----------



## jtown017

So I have had the chips replaced with sockets and have had to replace the chips one time. However, the last time the new chips did not work so once the tv turned on (after using hair dryer trick) we left the tv on. So the tv has been on constantly for almost a year now.


But for some reason, the tv has been shutting off by itself. used the hair dryer trick to get it back on

I ordered some new chips but has anyone else had this problem?


Why would the tv be turning off by itself now?


----------



## Mathesar

Well my XBR960N lasted nearly 13yrs without any repairs (bought new, manf. date Feb 2006 it was literally one of the last units built by Sony without the anti-glare coating) but is now suffering from the infamous flashing standby light, the PQ has also slipped over the years (not a big surprise considering the technology) Ive tried correcting some of it in the service menu such as convergence & geometry but I feel it could use an ISF calib to get it back in proper shape so not sure yet if I'll even attempt fixing it. 

For now RIP the last CRT in our house, Of course this was inevitable, Still using a Kuro plasma as my main but good to know OLED is a decent option for whenever the Plasma decides to retire, The Pioneer is going on 11 years old and still has very satisfying PQ.


----------



## JA Fant

Mathesar said:


> Well my XBR960N lasted nearly 13yrs without any repairs (bought new, manf. date Feb 2006 it was literally one of the last units built by Sony without the anti-glare coating) but is now suffering from the infamous flashing standby light, the PQ has also slipped over the years (not a big surprise considering the technology) Ive tried correcting some of it in the service menu such as convergence & geometry but I feel it could use an ISF calib to get it back in proper shape so not sure yet if I'll even attempt fixing it.
> 
> For now RIP the last CRT in our house, Of course this was inevitable, Still using a Kuro plasma as my main but good to know OLED is a decent option for whenever the Plasma decides to retire, The Pioneer is going on 11 years old and still has very satisfying PQ.





My condolences Mathesar- I bought my 960N in December 2005 and it still going strong.
The only acceptable back up to a SonyXBR CRT would be the Pioneer/PioneerElite Plasma set


----------



## JA Fant

Happy Holidays 960/960N Owners


----------



## JA Fant

Happy New Year! here is to another year with my 960N


----------



## foxfan

If anyone is junking their old 34XBR960, do you still have a functional HDMI port?


The replacement part is no longer available anywhere, and the HDCP on mine is fried, so I can't connect a satellite receiver to it, and I've been relying on a 2010 Blu-ray model that still allows 1080i over component.


The set is being used by my dad moving to an area without OTA. Unless I can locate one by the end of February, I'll have to junk mine (sadly... as I worked an entire summer in my teen years to pay for this TV and it still works good otherwise). Had the cold tuner fixed in warranty and the flashing power supply issue fixed a few years ago. If I do get rid of it, are any of you looking for specific replacement parts? If I can at least keep one CRT alive!


----------



## Deusfaux

my HDCP on the HDMI died this week .

I'm not entirely bummed, as the reason I acquired this TV originally was for SD sources (mostly video game consoles up thru PS2/Wii/Xbox OG), with modern pixel based TVs all doing such a poor job with that kind of content.

Still, I'd like to remedy if possible. However, it sounds like the option to replace the faulty part is not longer possible due to no one selling it?


----------



## sschnath

I'm looking to replace my 34XBR960 soon. It still works but needs a calibration/registration. It has not been our primary television for several years now so I've not invested in a calibration.

Besides the calibration, the only real issue I've had with it is that for about the entire time I've owned it (I'm the original owner, so ~13 years), every once in a while it will just get stupid. It will power up but will not display a picture or sound. If I pull the plug for a couple of seconds and then reconnect it it comes on fine. I suspect it doesn't like noisy power. 

Any ideas on how to dispose of it? I hate to just send it to an electronics recycler because it still has life left in it but not sure who would be interested in a CRT now given all the good flat screen options that exist now. 

Plus I'm 90 minutes from a significant population center (Boston) so the likelihood of someone in this area picking it up are low and shipping this behemoth any distance is really not worth it.

Anybody know of a museum looking for a donation?


----------



## zzwerzy

sschnath said:


> I'm looking to replace my 34XBR960 soon. It still works but needs a calibration/registration. It has not been our primary television for several years now so I've not invested in a calibration.
> 
> Besides the calibration, the only real issue I've had with it is that for about the entire time I've owned it (I'm the original owner, so ~13 years), every once in a while it will just get stupid. It will power up but will not display a picture or sound. If I pull the plug for a couple of seconds and then reconnect it it comes on fine. I suspect it doesn't like noisy power.
> 
> Any ideas on how to dispose of it? I hate to just send it to an electronics recycler because it still has life left in it but not sure who would be interested in a CRT now given all the good flat screen options that exist now.
> 
> Plus I'm 90 minutes from a significant population center (Boston) so the likelihood of someone in this area picking it up are low and shipping this behemoth any distance is really not worth it.
> 
> Anybody know of a museum looking for a donation?


In my experience, the KD-34XBR960 needs to be rebooted every two to three months. That is, unplugged and replugged, as mentioned by sschnath above.


I suggest offering it on eBay and elsewhere with a "local pickup only" option. People still want 'em.


Luck!


----------



## JA Fant

sschnath said:


> I'm looking to replace my 34XBR960 soon. It still works but needs a calibration/registration. It has not been our primary television for several years now so I've not invested in a calibration.
> 
> Besides the calibration, the only real issue I've had with it is that for about the entire time I've owned it (I'm the original owner, so ~13 years), every once in a while it will just get stupid. It will power up but will not display a picture or sound. If I pull the plug for a couple of seconds and then reconnect it it comes on fine. I suspect it doesn't like noisy power.
> 
> Any ideas on how to dispose of it? I hate to just send it to an electronics recycler because it still has life left in it but not sure who would be interested in a CRT now given all the good flat screen options that exist now.
> 
> Plus I'm 90 minutes from a significant population center (Boston) so the likelihood of someone in this area picking it up are low and shipping this behemoth any distance is really not worth it.
> 
> Anybody know of a museum looking for a donation?





At any age, this is still a via TV, the best of its (XBR CRT) kind. Craigslist works well.


----------



## JA Fant

zzwerzy said:


> In my experience, the KD-34XBR960 needs to be rebooted every two to three months. That is, unplugged and replugged, as mentioned by sschnath above.
> 
> 
> I suggest offering it on eBay and elsewhere with a "local pickup only" option. People still want 'em.
> 
> 
> Luck!



Thank You for the hot tip on re-booting zzwerzy.


I probably do this only once per year. My 960N has been plugged into a Richard Gray Power Company Pro400 since day 1 (Christmas 2005).


----------



## HughMBeing

Does anyone have any experience replacing the HDMI port on this set? All help is welcome. 

Thanks!


----------



## captainsolo

I did find a great local repair tech who was able to replace the power chips for me and at a very reasonable price. Ever since then my 960 has been working perfectly and still is going exceptionally strong. I adore this TV. Even though I did pick up a Panasonic ST60 plasma to try out I still find myself remarking at how much the 960 holds up against even 2013 plasma tech.

Outside of getting it professionally ISF calibrated one day to have perfect geometry and overscan adjustment the only thing I'd like to figure out is how to adjust the zoom parameters particularly for the digital sources so I might be able to zoom my occasional non-anamorphic DVD title. The SD content inputs have zoom functionality that's much more open whereas the HDMI zoom is locked and there's no menu adjustment available. I'm wondering what it might be in the service menu options but have no idea.


----------



## JA Fant

captainsolo said:


> I did find a great local repair tech who was able to replace the power chips for me and at a very reasonable price. Ever since then my 960 has been working perfectly and still is going exceptionally strong. I adore this TV. Even though I did pick up a Panasonic ST60 plasma to try out I still find myself remarking at how much the 960 holds up against even 2013 plasma tech.
> 
> Outside of getting it professionally ISF calibrated one day to have perfect geometry and overscan adjustment the only thing I'd like to figure out is how to adjust the zoom parameters particularly for the digital sources so I might be able to zoom my occasional non-anamorphic DVD title. The SD content inputs have zoom functionality that's much more open whereas the HDMI zoom is locked and there's no menu adjustment available. I'm wondering what it might be in the service menu options but have no idea.





Please list the Tech and way to contact for parts/service. Thank You!


----------



## HughMBeing

HughMBeing said:


> Does anyone have any experience replacing the HDMI port on this set? All help is welcome.
> 
> Thanks!


Bump. Anyone? Bueller? :wink:


----------



## bobjase

Deleted. Pls ignore


----------



## zzwerzy

*Color Smears or Bleeds to the right*

I have an unidentified problem with my beloved 34xbr960. Maybe someone here will recognize the symptom. This is difficult to describe so please bear with.

Bright areas of the screen affect darker areas to the right. When a bright white area is present, any dark colors to the right of it will smear to the right hand side of the screen. Sometimes the smear is a different (dark) color, sometimes not. White text with a blue background produces blue smears. Bright eyes and skin tones produce a more magenta smear.

This is most apparent in on-screen text (menus, etc), and images that have sharply defined high contrast areas about the vertical axis. It does not happen along the horizontal axis. A bright sky over a dark sea would have no aberration.

This symptom was intermittent, but it's full-time now.

I would love to fix it, or at least learn why I shouldn't. Any hints would be most welcome!


----------



## JA Fant

Happy New Year


----------



## Lukash

Hi

Has anyone been crazy enough to import it from USA to Europe? I would like to do this myself.

Could you (plural hopefully) guys could share your experience how much shipping was and was it delivered safely without damage?

In manual for it I have found that it doesn't support European 230 Volts, but the same was in manual for PS3 Fat with full hardware PS2 compatibility, and guess what it works just fine.

If I doesn't work, could you tell me which voltage converter do you use.

It's my dream to own it : (


----------



## LactoseIntolerant

I have a question, having to do with hdpt. I can moving the screen position around and size, but I can't adjust what is actually shown anymore.


So I wanted to get as much lag out of the system as possible so I turned HDPT to 0. This shifted my 1080i view to the left about 10% for whatever reason. Anyways, when using HPOS to line everything up again, the actual image that is shown is cutoff by about 10%, not just the position. I know you can adjust what is shown because I fixed overscan when I initially got the tv.


For whatever reason, none of the options that pertain to the actual image are working now. I believe they are in Mid3, but I've tried everything in the different Mid's just to see if I was in the wrong section and nothing is changing.


Are these values affected by image processing?










It has also cutoff the top and bottom with the same issues


----------



## Mike_00

Are these the best 16:9 HD CRTs ever mass produced?


----------



## R8ders2K

As former owner, yes (IMHO) and the *heaviest*.


----------



## Mike_00

I'm looking at an XBR960. It would be a 3 hour drive to get it, or even look at it. The price is definitely right though. Would the geometry shown in this picture be enough to scare away, or should it be easy to overcome with settings? Mainly focused on how the top-left, and to a lesser degree, the top-right seem to droop down. I don't know if this is warmed up, or just switched on to demonstrate that it powers up.


----------



## R8ders2K

It would be nice to see other images/video or even a test pattern. But it looks like adjustments for pincushioning/keystoneing couldn't hurt. Do you know of a good Sony tech in your area? The pots for the adjustments on most Trinitron tubes are on the sides, gotta remove the rear cover. And it weighs about 200 lbs.


----------



## Mike_00

R8ders2K said:


> It would be nice to see other images/video or even a test pattern. But it looks like adjustments for pincushioning/keystoneing couldn't hurt. Do you know of a good Sony tech in your area? The pots for the adjustments on most Trinitron tubes are on the sides, gotta remove the rear cover. And it weighs about 200 lbs.


No, but I would have found one. I'm stupid. I've been looking for one for awhile, and this one popped up for $100. When I went to pay for it, it was sold. I'll message them tomorrow, and tell them, "just in case it falls through" to keep my contact info, but it's gone. I do appreciate the reply though.


----------



## SpeedDemon

I remember when this thread was started back when I bought one of these brand-new. As a CRT enthusiast it's so great the 34XBR960 (plus 34XS955 & 30XS955) still being discussed/appreciated!


----------



## Null_Ptr

Does anyone have experience with making adjustments in the service menu know how to correct horizontal foldover. I'm having an issue with the HDMI input when I tried adjusting the image to remove the overscan I'm getting the image foldover on the sides.


----------



## captainsolo

I still have very slight curving of the edge line at a corner which is only visible on 1.33 content. Since I'm not an expert and fiddled with the geometry for weeks I realized I could only ever get it to a certain point. So what I wound up doing what adjusting for overscan and then made all my geometry fixes. After that I had to back out the overscan just a tad so that all four sides have the tiniest bit cropped out which took out all the rough edges. So now the only time I really see issues is when running 1.33 content over HDMI and my nerdy self can stare at the slight curvature and gripe.


----------



## JA Fant

Mike_00 said:


> Are these the best 16:9 HD CRTs ever mass produced?


Yes! Mike_00


----------



## JA Fant

I am starting another Fall season w/ my 960N


----------



## lzzy

I have an 34xbr960N looking for a home, I bought it about 15 years ago when I still lived with my parents in Yuma, Arizona, probably has no more than 200 hours watched, not too long after I bought it I moved to Las Vegas. it's been in my old room ever since just chilling. it's practically new aside from the dust that's settled on it over the years.


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## JA Fant

Mike_00 said:


> Are these the best 16:9 HD CRTs ever mass produced?


YES!


----------



## JA Fant

Happy New Year! 2021


----------



## SpeedDemon

Mike_00 said:


> Are these the best 16:9 HD CRTs ever mass produced?





R8ders2K said:


> As former owner, yes (IMHO) and the *heaviest*.





JA Fant said:


> Yes! Mike_00





JA Fant said:


> YES!


Wellllllllll... they're definitely the best _consumer _16:9 HD CRT, but Sony also made professional models that were superior in pretty much every imaginable way (aside from cost).

Specifically, there was the Sony BVM-D, BVM-A, and BVM-F series 16:9 Broadcast/Professional CRTs that all supported HD formats and are capable of achieving near perfect geometry, convergence, uniformity, etc.

Check them out if you never have:

Multi-page review of one of the best and most versatile ever made, the BVM-D32E1W: Is it heavy? Then it's expensive - A review of the Sony BVM-D32E1WE (I agree with everything in this review/article aside from the brightness argument (these displays were intended to be used in low-light rooms, but can be calibrated to be VERY bright if desired. These widescreen models didn't have an anti-reflective coating though which will bother some people if they want to use them with the lights off)
Or here are some videos:


----------



## JA Fant

Starting another Spring with my 960N


----------



## R8ders2K

JA Fant said:


> Starting another Spring with my 960N


Good for you! I can only hope that mine if still bringing enjoyment to college students at my son's alma mater.


----------



## JA Fant

R8ders2K said:


> Good for you! I can only hope that mine if still bringing enjoyment to college students at my son's alma mater.


Outstanding!


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## JA Fant

Another Summer with my 960N


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## JA Fant

Another Fall with my 960N


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## fork_bomb

Was able to snag one fairly recently in pretty good shape! Very impressed overall, but I’m having trouble getting a signal through any inputs aside from the HDMI, and inputs 1/2. 

I doubt that there’s too many people still on this thread all these years later, but has anyone else run into this problem and been able to fix it? Is there some buried setting I’m just not seeing?


----------



## jrronimo

I haven't seen your problem, fork_bomb... but I haven't used mine too much.

I _finally_ got mine set up after having it in storage for a couple years (after getting it for free on Craigslist.  ). I'm loving it so far! The problem I'm having is that I'm not getting audio out of the optical out. The light that comes through the cable seems pretty dim; if I use the same optical cable plugged in to my computer, the light on the other end is nice and bright and the same receiver works.

Anyone else have any issues with the Optical out on one of these?

For now, I can just go direct to a receiver, but it would be nicer to use the TV's optical out in my situation.


----------



## fork_bomb

So, it turns out I’m just stupid! The previous owner programmed all inputs except those three to be ‘skipped’, just a few clicks in the options menu re-enabled everything. Easy peezy. 

As far as optical out goes, it actually seems like I’m not able to get anything from mine either. not super necessary with my setup, but a bit annoying for sure. Maybe it’s a known issue with these sets?


----------



## JA Fant

Ready for another Holiday season here


----------



## Todd G.

JA Fant said:


> Ready for another Holiday season here


I loved ours while we had it, probably about six years until we replaced it with a 55” Panasonic VT50 plasma. We just needed something bigger sitting 13’ away.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JA Fant

Todd G. said:


> I loved ours while we had it, probably about six years until we replaced it with a 55” Panasonic VT50 plasma. We just needed something bigger sitting 13’ away.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I would only replace my 960N with a Plasma.


----------



## Todd G.

JA Fant said:


> I would only replace my 960N with a Plasma.


Yeah, it was a great TV. I tried the flagship 40” Sony XBR LCD while the 960 was in to have the yoke adhesive redone under warranty (2008-ish). It was an okay TV, but I still preferred the 960. The Panasonic VT50 plasma was a worthy replacement.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DSperber

JA Fant said:


> I would only replace my 960N with a Plasma.


My HDTV history started back in 2001 with a Sampo SME-34WHD5. Initially served by OTA in the Dallas area which was just experimenting overnight with limited (but stunning) test demonstration HDTV short subject content produced WRAL in Raleight NC.

I then bought the first Panasonic DST50 HDTV OTA/ATSC receiver and also its mate the PV-HD1000 which was the first DVHS VCR. I was in heaven back in 2002 when the Salt Lake City Olympics was broadcast in HDTV, and I could record it in actual HDTV onto DVHS tape! I still have those tapes (and the fabulous skating of Sarah Hughes!). The first PV-HD1000 died so I bought a second, but eventually both items in this "Panny combo" became unusable.

In 2002 I moved back to LA and over the next few years acquired the complete series of JVC DVHS VCRs, ending with their final OTA/ATSC DT100U. Had three of them at one time but I've sold two, keeping one.

In 2004 my Sampo picture tube died and was irreplaceable as the company no longer supported the TV. It was at that time that I bought my own Sony 34XBR960. Had to have Sony warranty service because there were significant geometry problems that could not be solved through simple user menu or service menu tweaks, although I tried hard. But it took a "magnet job" (on the picture tube) by a skilled technician in order to finally get it near-perfect.

In December 2012 I went to an Audio/Video store that specialized in "if Sony makes we sell it". They had gotten an early unit of the just-announced first of its kind 84" HDTV (priced at $25,000) and had it available on the floor for demo around the holidays. I went over to see and decided to use the opportunity to walk around the floor and see what else was currently available that might possibly give my 960 a run for its money. 

They happened to have a Panny 65VT50 on display, near several other similar sized models from other manufacturers. All were showing the same source content simultaneously so you could really compare for yourself. Well, I was sold instantly. Bought one of these 65VT50 sets and had it wall-mounted in my bedroom to be side-by-side with my 200lb 34XBR960 still sitting on its credenza. So I could truly compare side-by-side the two sets. Very different of course, and my bias was to want to continue to love the never-calibrated but geometry-tweaked 960. But even in its initial un-calibrated condition I kind of liked the plasma.

Things radically changed in April 2013 when I arranged to have D-Nice perform two true ISF calibrations for me, one on the VT50 and the second on the 960. So now I had two sets that side-by-side really did produce the same COLOR. But otherwise, there honestly really was no comparison even trying to suppress the mental effect of comparing a 34" picture to a 65" picture. Forgetting (if possible) about the size difference, there really was no comparison for brightness and contrast of the two sets. The plasma was just truly spectacular and the clear winner over the CRT. And although color and "black" were similar (thanks to the D-Nice calibration) there simply was no question that the Panny a wonderful successor to the 960, which had given me 9 good years of fabulous HDTV.

I kept both sets (although despite wanting to keep using it, actually stopped watching anything on the 960 since watching through the VT50 was so wonderful) for the next few years. But as I began to plan for an upcoming redecorating project decided to try and sell my 960. In 2016 I was very lucky to find a guy in the midwest who wanted one of these 960's for use as a gaming CRT monitor for his son who had old gaming consoles. So, still in perfect condition and calibrated by D-Nice, I arranged with a shipper to have it packed up and trucked away. And that was the end of my 12-year affair with my 960, and my story was also now 3 years into my run with the truly fantastic calibrated 65VT50.

In mid-2018 I decided to take my first step into 4K, starting "small" with a 55" LG OLED C7 in my office to replace my previous Samsung 32" J6300. Again I had D-Nice perform a first calibration on the 55" LG C7 in the office, as well as performing a second "tuneup" calibration on the 65" Panny VT50 in the bedroom. These two sets were in different rooms so it was physically impossible to really eyeball-compare them side-by-side. But I'm going to have to say that the 4K OLED was simply remarkable playing demo reference material.

The story with the VT50 lasted until the end of my redecorating project in late 2019 when I decided to celebrate by upgrading the bedroom TV to 4K OLED. I chose to replace the 65VT50 with what I felt to be the only set up to the challenge, namely a 65" LG OLED C9. I was able to use the same wall-mount that held the 65VT50. and in very early 2020 I had D-Nice come out yet one more time, to perform a first calibration on the 65" LG C9 and a second "tuneup" calibration for the 55" LG C7. Unfortunately, one critical piece of his calibration equipment failed to operate and he was forced to use an older backup device that could not provide all that was required to complete the full SDR/HDR/DV calibration set on the 55" C7. And he was unable to provide calibration reports for what got done on the 65" C9 (which has its own built-in signal generator to perform calibrations with... but not to generate before/after reports).

So we agreed that he would come back in a few months on his next trip to LA, to complete both calibrations properly.

And then covid hit. And the world ended for a year.

So D-Nice never did return back to LA for more than a year. But finally, a few months ago in June 2021 he actually did make his first trip back to LA since March 2020. And he did re-perform both calibrations completely and using his newly acquired replacement calibration equipment. And he did provide me with a complete set of reports for both 55" C7 and 65" C9. And of course the picture on both sets is just startlingly wonderful.

So, the moral of the story to my friends in this 960 thread. Do not fear upgrading to something non-CRT. Yes, plasma and the 65VT50 in particular for me were superb HD upgrades from my own 34" 960 CRT. But you haven't seen anything until you go "calibrated" OLED and 4K UHD (and HDR/DV) presenting content that was produced for 4K UHD HDR/DV. Pick the right size screen to match your viewing distance, and don't be afraid to put a big screen on your wall or on a credenza mounted essentially at straight-ahead eye-level to the center of the screen from your viewing position, instead of having to "look up" at the screen. That's how I pick seats in a real movie theater, because I like to look straight at the picture rather than looking up.

I've never seen any other brand of OLED for real, so I don't know if other manufacturers top LG. But for me calibrated LG OLED is just perfection. You will quickly forget your former life with the 960.


----------



## Harry27

DSperber said:


> And he did provide me with a complete set of reports for both 55" C7 and 65" C9. And of course the picture on both sets is just startlingly wonderful.


DSperber do you know if D-Nice used an alternative white point when calibrating your OLED TV? I heard due to metamerism that an OLED can look different than Plasma/CRT when calibrating to D65. I know he talked about alternative white points in the past. Since the calibrated OLED looked better than the VT50 and 960 then that seems like I don't have a reason to not upgrade from my ZT60.


----------



## DSperber

Harry27 said:


> DSperber do you know if D-Nice used an alternative white point when calibrating your OLED TV?


Well I don't pretend to know much about calibration from a technical perspective. I'm just an "end user".

But I have several disc-based reference materials that we play after each of his visits because I'm so familiar with how they look. There was much laughter before and after his very first visit back in 2013 to work on my VT50, because my "before" report was so absolutely off-the-chart horrible. Truly off the chart. In contrast the after report and corresponding actual onscreen appearance of my reference content was so strikingly "WOW" different and wonderful that we've been using the same "proof is in the pudding" material ever since. All though it's really hard to confirm now that my VT50 is gone so I can't do a side-by-side, I can't help but feel the appearance of that one particular scene (in color, brightness, contrast, detail, etc.) was actually superior on the VT50. But it came from a DVD not a BluRay. It was played on an Oppo 103 to the 1080p VT50. Using it again for the C9 demo playing it now on a 203 so that it would get upscaled to 4K, well I just remember it didn't have that absolute WOW I will never forget when seeing for the first time on my first-time calibrated VT50.

Of course this could just be tricks of my memory after all these years. Or maybe how absolutely dramatically different my before/after report was for that first VT50 calibration, so that the visual difference was really so startling. In contrast the out-of-the-carton factory condition of the C9 was so good that the difference post-calibration was just not quite as dramatic.

Anyway, to your question. Looking at the reports it does appear that he used "D65" for the white point target with the VT50 (I only had him do ISF Day and ISF Night). And for both C7 (three calibrations since 2018) and C9 (two calibrations since 2020) all reports do show "Custom" for the white point target.

In fact he did respond to my request for "a bit more punch" with the second C9 calibration earlier this year, to get it to look more like how the C7 presents. He did say the two sets are different, and the two rooms and lighting are different, and the C7 is only 55" while the C9 is 65", all of which contribute to why they look different even though the same set of ISF Day/Night, HDR and Dolby Cinema calibrations were done for both. But he did "brighten up" my C9 much more to my liking this time. Could also have been the use of the built-in LG C9 color generator used originally in 2020, whereas this year he used his own personal equipment.

Anyway, there is truly no question that upgrading from a 1080p plasma to 4K OLED was genuinely satisfying. The Oppo 203 is wonderful for playing discs, which is all I use it for. I'm very careful to watch anything "frame rate matched" by my streaming devices (I have Roku Ultra 2020, ATV4K 2019 and NVidia Shield Tube 2020), supporting the full range of both integral and non-integral frame rates. Movies presented at 24hz on both C7 and C9 are just wonderfully "theatrical" and film-like in appearance which makes watching them on the C9 so enjoyable. That's why, for example, I do NOT use the Roku for Netflix and Hulu because both apps are "framerate locked to 60hz" by the Roku. Instead use either of the other two streamers where the Netflix and Hulu apps deliver at the correct framerate. Trust me, there is a huge difference watching something like "The Two Popes" (4K DV) at genuine 24hz vs. faux 60hz. It's like film vs. live-on-tape, and it looks it. Same reason I can't stand special HFR movies in theaters and will not go to see them ever since my first (it was some special 3D edition of "Lord of the Rings" at 48FPS). Never again. And only 23.976/24.000/25.000 for films on my C9 if available.


----------



## JA Fant

Great stories of comparison- All


----------



## JA Fant

Another Holiday season with my 960N


----------



## chozofication

While not the exact same tv, I picked up an x955 30 inch last week for free, overall in really good shape, with OG stand with glass doors and everything. Picture is excellent. My only gripe is it seems to cut off some text/UI elements at the very edge of the screen, not sure if I just have to live with it or if I can disable overscan.

Gotta say these hd tubes are pretty good still, it just seems high quality all round.


----------



## JA Fant

Happy New Year! 
starting 2022 with my 960N


----------



## micca

JA Fant said:


> I would only replace my 960N with a Plasma.


You mean OLED. : ) My XBR switch to plasma was 10 years ago... and the XBR still beats it.

I'm finally firing this thing back up after forever. I came here looking for info on possible optical out issues and I see I'm not alone. Almost 20 years later and it's the first time I've tried using it without any luck. (Damn - I can't believe this thing is this old!)


----------



## JA Fant

micca said:


> You mean OLED. : ) My XBR switch to plasma was 10 years ago... and the XBR still beats it.
> 
> I'm finally firing this thing back up after forever. I came here looking for info on possible optical out issues and I see I'm not alone. Almost 20 years later and it's the first time I've tried using it without any luck. (Damn - I can't believe this thing is this old!)


I do not care for a LED nor OLED TV.


----------



## versoI'Alto

Hi everyone!
New owner of a Sony XBR-960 of which I obtained for free. Unfortunately, the set definitely seems to have some reasonably bad convergence and geometry issues. Have watched some Youtube videos of people correcting these types of issues on 4:3 CRTS. Curious if there are any particulars that would be helpful to know about for this particular set. Thanks! I appreciate any help.


----------



## versoI'Alto

After playing around with service menu adjustments I was able to calibrate my XBR-960 to achieve the results as shown. How does this compare with your average XBR-960 calibration? These results are a significant improvement over what the display was set to when I got it. Also, I was able to get reasonable geometry correction done via the SM but I believe it needs further improvement. Still some convergence issues as well that I would like to clean up. Any tips or advice would be appreciated! Thanks!


----------



## DSperber

It's been a long time since I posted here. I sold my one-owner (i.e. me, new-original since 2004) 34XBR960 a number of years ago, several years after I bought a Panny 65VT50 to finally replace it back in 2013. The VT50 has since been replaced by an LG OLED 65" C9 which is what I have now. But ALL of these sets have been calibrated (and re-calibrated several times for the Panny and LG sets) for me by D-Nice, starting in 2013.

So the 34XBR960 was only done once, back in 2013. Prior to that I had a Sony warranty-service "magnet job" on the picture tube shortly after I bought the set new back in 2004. The geometry of the new set was "way off" and the curvature I complained about could not be cured through service menu (SM) tweaks, but rather only through the "magnet job" effect on the picture tube. Consequently any subsequent adjustments through the SM were obviously dependent on the physical characteristics resulting from the "magnet job".

In other words it's really not possible to share somebody else's calibration values for an analog set with a picture tube, and expect comparable results. Everybody's analog set is physically different. To a lesser degree this also holds for modern digital sets like the Panny plasma and LG OLED sets, but it is still true that "calibration" is specific to the TV being calibrated no matter what that set is.

Nevertheless, I share here the last setup that I had for my XBR960. I'm attaching both the "post-calibration" report from D-Nice back in 2013, as well as my own XLSX spreadsheet that I created in order to keep track of both my user-menu and service-menu settings. Although I had come through many iterations of input source devices and methods, in the end I was only using INPUT7 (HDMI) for both 1080i and 720p sources, fed via HDMI from a Yamaha RX-867 AVR into which all true source devices were fed. So all of the non-HDMI information in my spreadsheet isn't really relevant. I never actually used for real any of the non-HDMI sources. And the same caveat holds for the ISF calibration by D-Nice in 2013, which was only done for INPUT7.

Since my pre-calibration spreadsheet (which was mostly significant for its GEOMETRY adjustments, and not for its apparently absolutely terrible off-the-charts manual COLOR adjustments by me... as confirmed by the pre/post calibration reports provided to me by D-Nice) was mostly meant to enumerate everything possible and what I may have changed from Sony-default values, after D-Nice completed his work I only added one more column to show just exactly what he had tweaked from the most recent C-1080i column values I had been using. So the "ISF" values shown really reflect the condition he left the set in, as adjusted from whatever I had set myself before he arrived. If there's no adjusted value in that ISF column then my values were left as-is.

Still... I am providing this information to you just for reference. Again, your set is probably very different from my set in many ways, and specifically for my geometry adjustments to try and get optimal straight vertical and horizontal lines and corners, and eliminated bowing and curvature. D-Nice didn't tweak anything there, as I instructed him to only be concerned with color calibration. So, as they say... YMMV.

NOTE: the gamma target for my own D-Nice calibration was 2.2, not the 2.4 yours shows. That is one very signficant difference in whatever results we're evaluating.

(1) The current forum software no longer permits attaching of an XLSX file. However back in 2017 (on this thread) I posted my final spreadsheet using the forum software of that time, which DID allow attaching a ZIP file. So you should be able to retrieve my final spreadsheet (dated Dec 11, 2017) from the attachment on this old post.

(2) The PDF post-calibration report from my 2013 D-Nice calibration is attached here, to this current post.


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## versoI'Alto

Thank you Dsperber for sharing your experiences with the Sony XBR-960. I do appreciate it. I hear what you are saying in regard to each set (particularly given their analogue nature) having their own unique set of circumstances/challenges. Still in the process of figuring out how to get the best results out of my particular set. Getting the geometry right has been somewhat elusive to me for whatever reason. I'm thinking at this point I might pull the cover off this beast and make some adjustments in the back of the unit to be able to get it right (at least as good as I can). With some content the geometry issues are not really noticeable and almost a non-issue for me at least. With a number of things (such as menus and some letterbox movies) these distortions can be a bit distracting/annoying. Going to keep tinkering away at it. Also, a lot of those 8k nature videos on Youtube look quite good on this set despite some of these issues and imperfections. Took a few shots with my phone and attached a few images of the set in action.


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## DSperber

Your "geometry" test pattern shows that you have not properly addressed or corrected for "overscan". So you're lopping off the outer 5% or so of the image, around all four edges.

There has been lots of discussion about overscan. You can refer to this one from me back in 2006. I believe it involves 2170D-1 and 2170D-2 and MID3 in the service menu.


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## versoI'Alto

Yeah, I tried my best getting it right with the VSIZ, VPOS, HSIZ, HPOS controls. I ended up accepting a little bit of over scan as the best overall trade off of issues. I was not aware of those options in MID3 however. Ill have to try and see what I can do with those settings. Thanks!


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## JA Fant

Happy Spring! All


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## JA Fant

Summer is on the Horizon


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## scei159

Looks nice on CRT technology, good 👌🏻.


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## JA Fant

Summer Solstice


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## JA Fant

Labor Day is up next


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## Floydage

There ya go JA!









Blue light exposure may accelerate aging, a study in fruit flies finds


Blue light from electronic devices may impact basic cellular functions, accelerating aging, according to a recent study from researchers at Oregon State University.




www.medicalnewstoday.com


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## versoI'Alto

Been playing with the XBR960 the past few months constantly trying to get the set as close to perfect as possible and while it seems some issues cannot be completely wrinkled out (maybe I'm wrong) I think I have got it to a pretty solid point. Thought I would share some pics of the XBR-960 in action. I think this set looks pretty good. CRT tech seems to be able to produce a nice sense of depth within an image in addition to producing a natural glow that I do believe certain types of display tech struggle to match.


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## JA Fant

versoI'Alto said:


> Been playing with the XBR960 the past few months constantly trying to get the set as close to perfect as possible and while it seems some issues cannot be completely wrinkled out (maybe I'm wrong) I think I have got it to a pretty solid point. Thought I would share some pics of the XBR-960 in action. I think this set looks pretty good. CRT tech seems to be able to produce a nice sense of depth within an image in addition to producing a natural glow that I do believe certain types of display tech struggle to match.
> View attachment 3333528
> View attachment 3333529
> View attachment 3333530
> View attachment 3333531
> View attachment 3333532
> View attachment 3333533


those images look Great! versol' Make sure you have a power conditioner connected to the T.V.


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## JA Fant

Fall, is in the air!


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## JA Fant

Halloween up next 🎃


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## Ratman

You skipped Columbus Day (now Indigenous Peoples Day) .


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## JA Fant

Ratman said:


> You skipped Columbus Day (now Indigenous Peoples Day) .


Yes! I did miss Columbus Day- Thank You for the reminder.
⛴


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## JA Fant

A few more days until Halloween 🎃🤡


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## JA Fant

Up next - Thanksgiving


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## Ratman

You skipped Veterans Day (formally known as Armistice Day).


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## shiromar

Hey guys, hoping for a little help here. 

I have a KV-34XBR910 and I wanted to use HDPT 0 to reduce lag. The issue I'm coming across is that once I set HDPT to 0 I can no longer adjust overscan in MID3, meaning adjusting the MID3 VDHP VDHS VDVE VDVS don't appear to do anything.

Is there a way around this?


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## JA Fant

Ratman said:


> You skipped Veterans Day (formally known as Armistice Day).


I was celebrating Veteran's Day 🚀


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## JA Fant

Happy Thanksgiving! All🇺🇸


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## JA Fant

Up next-
Christmas 🎅 and New Year day 🎉


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## JA Fant

Christmas Eve 🎅


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## Ratman

And Christmas Adam


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## JA Fant

Merry Christmas 🎁


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