# Optoma P1 4k Laser UST @ CES



## aerodynamics

For everyone wondering when the big boys were going to catch up with the influx of Chinese USTs, here you go:

https://www.prnewswire.com/news-rel...-throw-and-integrated-soundbar-300773324.html

HLG, integrated sound bar, $2999, late Q2. I wish they would’ve ditched the soundbar for a lower price point.


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## qoopy

Good catch, aerodynamics.
With LG and ChangHong moving out, this looks like the only remaining 2019 UST to stay in this budget forum.


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## JRock3x8

This is not the short throw you are looking for. 

What a bummer for all those people who waited for CES. 

Curious why we haven’t seen a true budget lamp based 4k UST here in the US like they have been selling like hot cakes in China. Further supports my theory that Americans have money to burn and are more than willing to do so. 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ProjectionHead

JRock3x8 said:


> This is not the short throw you are looking for.
> 
> What a bummer for all those people who waited for CES.
> 
> Curious why we haven’t seen a true budget lamp based 4k UST here in the US like they have been selling like hot cakes in China. Further supports my theory that Americans have money to burn and are more than willing to do so.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Why a bummer? Not sure if you think is is not good enough, or if it's too expensive since it's not a budget, lamp based model.


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## ProjectionHead

aerodynamics said:


> For everyone wondering when the big boys were going to catch up with the influx of Chinese USTs, here you go:
> 
> https://www.prnewswire.com/news-rel...-throw-and-integrated-soundbar-300773324.html
> 
> HLG, integrated sound bar, $2999, late Q2. I wish they would’ve ditched the soundbar for a lower price point.


I agree; same with the Hisense UST Laser 4k Projector and their integrated speakers & subwoofer. Especially at that higher price point, I would expect most people to have a dedicated (possibly surround) sound setup and not want to rely on whats integrated with the projector.


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## JRock3x8

ProjectionHead said:


> Why a bummer? Not sure if you think is is not good enough, or if it's too expensive since it's not a budget, lamp based model.




In my opinion I think people were waiting for low(er) cost lamp dlp PJs that we’re essentially clones of ht2550/UHD50. 

Now it sort of looks like those might not happen at all. 

I guess true short throw PJs aren’t a viable market. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## LeQuack

Nobody decided to mention the integrated "smart" assistants? If smart TVs are anything to go by, I'm expecting Optoma to update the software for maybe a year and then leave it outdated, forcing you to not use the feature anymore or buy a new PJ.


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## da_103

I wish more companies learned from Apple and released these things earlier, I understand CES is used to showcase new tech but waiting for late Q2 is kind of pushing it.


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## MJ DOOM

Where are the normal throw 4K projectors announcements at? @Tuan what's the word?


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## Tuan

MJ DOOM said:


> Where are the normal throw 4K projectors announcements at? @Tuan what's the word?


There are none, we already have a complete line up of standard throws - UHD50, UHD51A, UHD51ALV, UHD60, UHD65 and UHZ65 on the consumer side.


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## MJ DOOM

Tuan said:


> There are none, we already have a complete line up of standard throws - UHD50, UHD51A, UHD51ALV, UHD60, UHD65 and UHZ65 on the consumer side.


Will the UHZ65 see a price drop this year? 

I figured you guys would release a new .47 4K projector without the light border.

What happen to the 4k LED projector you guys were suppose to be releasing?

Also what happen to ZH55 1080p laser projector announced a couple years ago?


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## ProjectionHead

JRock3x8 said:


> In my opinion I think people were waiting for low(er) cost lamp dlp PJs that we’re essentially clones of ht2550/UHD50.
> 
> Now it sort of looks like those might not happen at all.
> 
> I guess true short throw PJs aren’t a viable market.


I'm sure there are many people looking for a less expensive option. Personally, I think $3,000 for a laser 4k UST (that is on par at least with the UHD65) is a great deal, especially compared to the alternatives. These UST projectors are positioned as "tv replacements" by some manufacturers, so going laser makes sense as they will likely get more usage than a dedicated theater room projector. I'll letcha know how it stacks up once I get my hands on one


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## JRock3x8

ProjectionHead said:


> I'm sure there are many people looking for a less expensive option. Personally, I think $3,000 for a laser 4k UST (that is on par at least with the UHD65) is a great deal, especially compared to the alternatives. These UST projectors are positioned as "tv replacements" by some manufacturers, so going laser makes sense as they will likely get more usage than a dedicated theater room projector. I'll letcha know how it stacks up once I get my hands on one




$3000 for a display device - ANY display device - is so outrageous that I can’t even fathom it. 

Now I fully understand that I am one side of a very wide spectrum in this forum but... such as it is. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ProjectionHead

JRock3x8 said:


> $3000 for a display device - ANY display device - is so outrageous that I can’t even fathom it.
> 
> Now I fully understand that I am one side of a very wide spectrum in this forum but... such as it is.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


lol, stay clear of this sub: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-digital-hi-end-projectors-3-000-usd-msrp/; your head will spin


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## jjsaustin

The specs state 3000 lumens... I'm assuming this must have a white segment in the color wheel, but I can't find anything stated.


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## cubsfan

i'm also hopeful there's an no soundbar option, that cuts the price a bit.


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## da_103

cubsfan said:


> i'm also hopeful there's an no soundbar option, that cuts the price a bit.


Agreed, give me a bare bone model for under $2k and I'll be a happy camper.


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## cubsfan

can't wait for some reviews to start rolling in. ust makes a lot of sense for my setup.


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## Fishking

cubsfan said:


> can't wait for some reviews to start rolling in. ust makes a lot of sense for my setup.


This looks very interesting.

Is it real 4K or faux K ? Guessing at the price point it must be faux K


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## Ofir Kris

Is this True 4K or pixel shifting?


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## cubsfan

read the release ; 8.3 mil. pixels = 4K


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## dreamstate

aerodynamics said:


> For everyone wondering when the big boys were going to catch up with the influx of Chinese USTs, here you go:
> 
> https://www.prnewswire.com/news-rel...-throw-and-integrated-soundbar-300773324.html
> 
> HLG, integrated sound bar, $2999, late Q2. I wish they would’ve ditched the soundbar for a lower price point.


Yeah me too. Most of us have our own sound systems already. This Is what I wanted a year ago and I was just not convinced to buy Xiaomi and the heavy Asian content on the UI.

It's a native 1080 chip that doesn't do shifting, so not native 4k, or a shifter but... an upscaler that supposedly shows 4k pixels. Here's a link to a video of the P1 and the other 4k LED as well, and a couple of articles stating It's 1080 with some kind of upscaling. Someone needs to really clarify how It accomplishes this please, and how In the H3LL It qualifies as a 4k projector??? As stated It has full range aluminium drivers and 2 "woofers". 




https://www.cnet.com/news/optoma-p1...r-has-4k-resolution-and-a-built-in-sound-bar/

http://4k.com/news/optomas-new-p1-4k-hdr-short-throw-projector-delivers-everything-in-one-25148/


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## oni222

I am looking to replacemy Xiaomi UST (FauxK) Laser projector with a real 4k model. Do we know if this uses a color-wheel or three separate lasers for R , G and B?
Also is it HDMI 2.1?


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## dreamstate

oni222 said:


> I am looking to replacemy Xiaomi UST (FauxK) Laser projector with a real 4k model. Do we know if this uses a color-wheel or three separate lasers for R , G and B?
> Also is it HDMI 2.1?


 Isn't the Xaiomi downscaling 4k to 1080 on it's native 1080 chip? So not even "fauxk"?. It uses a single blue laser. If this used 2 or more lasers It would be extremely costly. Like double or triple the price.


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## Condojector

JRock3x8 said:


> $3000 for a display device - ANY display device - is so outrageous that I can’t even fathom it.
> 
> Now I fully understand that I am one side of a very wide spectrum in this forum but... such as it is.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm pretty disappointed myself by what was announced in the pj world at this year's CES (not just by Optoma but from anyone in the pj space period). Like you said, everything noteworthy seemed to be over $2k, even LG's new ultra short throw 4K pj, which will probably be well over $2k as well. 

Meanwhile, TV manufacturers knocked it out of the park again, with 8K and tvs that rollup, etc. Seems pretty obvious to me which industry is being left in the dust.


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## Tuan

dreamstate said:


> aerodynamics said:
> 
> 
> 
> For everyone wondering when the big boys were going to catch up with the influx of Chinese USTs, here you go:
> 
> https://www.prnewswire.com/news-rel...-throw-and-integrated-soundbar-300773324.html
> 
> HLG, integrated sound bar, $2999, late Q2. I wish they would’ve ditched the soundbar for a lower price point.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah me too. Most of us have our own sound systems already. This Is what I wanted a year ago and I was just not convinced to buy Xiaomi and the heavy Asian content on the UI.
> 
> It's a native 1080 chip that doesn't do shifting, so not native 4k, or a shifter but... an upscaler that supposedly shows 4k pixels. Here's a link to a video of the P1 and the other 4k LED as well, and a couple of articles stating It's 1080 with some kind of upscaling. Someone needs to really clarify how It accomplishes this please, and how In the H3LL It qualifies as a 4k projector??? As stated It has full range aluminium drivers and 2 "woofers".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.cnet.com/news/optoma-p1...r-has-4k-resolution-and-a-built-in-sound-bar/
> 
> http://4k.com/news/optomas-new-p1-4k-hdr-short-throw-projector-delivers-everything-in-one-25148/
Click to expand...

The story on 4k.com.is factually incorrect. We're using the TI 0.47 DMD with XPR technology to achieve 4K UHD, per the CTA's definition of 4K UHD. We're also using a high-quality, glass lens.


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## Dave in Green

Just to be clear for those who may be confused by the terminology, XPR technology is a form of pixel shifting. The 1920x1080 pixels of the 0.47" XPR DMD are shifted horizontally and vertically in four directions at 240Hz to make it appear to the human eye as if 3840x2160 pixels are simultaneously on the screen. Most consider it to be a very effective alternative to native 4K at a fraction of the cost.


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## dreamstate

Dave in Green said:


> Just to be clear for those who may be confused by the terminology, XPR technology is a form of pixel shifting. The 1920x1080 pixels of the 0.47" XPR DMD are shifted horizontally and vertically in four directions at 240Hz to make it appear to the human eye as if 3840x2160 pixels are simultaneously on the screen. Most consider it to be a very effective alternative to native 4K at a fraction of the cost.


Thanks for clearing that up guys.


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## oni222

dreamstate said:


> Isn't the Xaiomi downscaling 4k to 1080 on it's native 1080 chip? So not even "fauxk"?. It uses a single blue laser. If this used 2 or more lasers It would be extremely costly. Like double or triple the price.


The LG UST Laser projector shown in CES for less than $3000 has two lasers and claims to be "real 4k" but I am waiting for some reviewers to get their hands on them before I trust their 4k claims.


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## unretarded

Pony up and buy a lamp.....



I am pushing 10k hours now and just recently purchased a lamp....250 and she is new again......for hopefully another 9k hours....



When looking at the cost difference for us high hour usage users, laser is still not that great at 20k hours, I am half way to that in just over 2 years...…..I would hate to think I would be half way to throwing away my projector if it was laser...…...and I would be in for 4 times the costs or more for a half used up PJ...…


When you do the math for a high hour user, it does not favor the laser at this time....which oddly is a selling point.


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## Troy LaMont




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## bix26

oni222 said:


> The LG UST Laser projector shown in CES for less than $3000 has two lasers and claims to be "real 4k" but I am waiting for some reviewers to get their hands on them before I trust their 4k claims.




There hasn’t been a price announced for the LG yet. The Optoma P1 with a single blue laser was announced as $3,000.


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## dreamstate

Troy LaMont said:


> Nice coverage video


"Value" hmmmmm. "Over head surround" really?


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## Tuan

oni222 said:


> The LG UST Laser projector shown in CES for less than $3000 has two lasers and claims to be "real 4k" but I am waiting for some reviewers to get their hands on them before I trust their 4k claims.


The LG uses the same Texas Instruments 0.47" DMD with XPR technology as BenQ, Acer, ViewSonic and we do. It's been out for. Year and proven to produce excellent image. We're also using a glass lens on the P1. There's nothing to really wait for. However, if you want a native 4K chip in a ultra short throw form factor, the Sony SXRD 4K UST is your only option at $25k USD.


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## gadgtfreek

unretarded said:


> Pony up and buy a lamp.....
> 
> 
> 
> I am pushing 10k hours now and just recently purchased a lamp....250 and she is new again......for hopefully another 9k hours....
> 
> 
> 
> When looking at the cost difference for us high hour usage users, laser is still not that great at 20k hours, I am half way to that in just over 2 years...…..I would hate to think I would be half way to throwing away my projector if it was laser...…...and I would be in for 4 times the costs or more for a half used up PJ...…
> 
> 
> When you do the math for a high hour user, it does not favor the laser at this time....which oddly is a selling point.



Never thought of this. UST projectors are on my radar this year. 77" OLEDs and such are coming down in price, but huge displays just aint easy to deal with and I love the UST concept.

If I get one, it will be used for everything, so 25 hours a week prob.


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## unretarded

gadgtfreek said:


> Never thought of this. UST projectors are on my radar this year. 77" OLEDs and such are coming down in price, but huge displays just aint easy to deal with and I love the UST concept.
> 
> If I get one, it will be used for everything, so 25 hours a week prob.



With very good 1080`s in the 6 to 8 hundred buck range and 4K`s in the 1200-2K range...…..the math just does pencil out on a laser one for me, maybe there is some performance metric I am over looking, but my 600 buck lamp based model looks very good......it is going to take a while to break even compared to a lasers costs up front...…..


I took about 5 minutes to change the bulb with a Philips screw driver and it was good as new again......I wonder what the reduction in lumens curve looks like on a laser and if 4 or 5 thousand hours of that 20k hour rating on the laser is at 80% lumens as new output.


I think they do pretty well up to the end of maintaining output, a bulb does slope off pretty good.....it just depends on what you want.


I am not anti laser and now that the prices have been coming down I am looking at them more and more.....but the math is not penciling out for my application at this time, for others it might fit and be perfect for their application.


Depending on application 20k hours might be a lifetime or a few years.....



I was just talking yesterday and a friend has some 15 year old 20K projector he wants to hook up, no HDMI and 4:3 output, is that even worth using now at all ? So at some point, no matter how many hours a lamp/laser lasts, it will not play current content...….


Just some things to mull over...…..I am super excited to see these new laser offerings and that the price is dropping more and more,,,....great times for sure !


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## gadgtfreek

For $3000, Id be willing to try it out. I mean it looks like it would sit perfectly on my Klipsch center. I used to sweat lumens, but whenever I go to a Buff Wild Wings and see it all lit up and look at the FP image, Im like sure it is washed a little but it is HUGE.


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## gadgtfreek

So, if I wanted to go all out on a proper screen, is something like the $1000 UST Elite screen the proper move being it is a living room device and only dark for movies?

https://elitescreens.com/front/front/productdetail/product/154

Edit: Found my own answer, that would most likely be the screen I would buy.


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## Troy LaMont

dreamstate said:


> "Value" hmmmmm. "Over head surround" really?


Value=hell yeah! Seeing as how Dell's first single laser UST PJ was $5000, all of the front ceiling mounted DLP laser PJs are $4500/$5000 and the Chinese JMGo UST laser is $4500. Hell, even the 1080p UST laser PJ from Xioami is $2,000 so all in all, $3000 IS a value indeed!

I thought it would come in closer to $4000-$5000 range but thank goodness it didn't. Might see it down to $2,500 by summer!!!!!


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## gadgtfreek

I guess being a flat panel person I don’t see $2999 msrp as bad.


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## dreamstate

I've been looking at some of the Optoma UST bulb projectors. They're very, very inexpensive and throw a very bright punchy picture. The bulb life is pretty long and BAM new bulb and you're set again for those of us who leave our units on for many hours. I would go through 20k hours very quickly. So, I'm not so convinced that they are a good value just yet. My BenQ HT2050 was a great deal. The P1 not so much IMHO. Take a grand off that MSRP and I would be inclined to agree. Also, screen cost. 1k for the XY screen to pair with this. 4k for 4k. Steep.


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## gadgtfreek

Can you pro cal a UST projector?


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## stumlad

gadgtfreek said:


> Never thought of this. UST projectors are on my radar this year. 77" OLEDs and such are coming down in price, but huge displays just aint easy to deal with and I love the UST concept.
> 
> If I get one, it will be used for everything, so 25 hours a week prob.



If you were looking at OLEDs, chances are high that this wont come anywhere near close to the picture quality an OLED gives. The main selling point of an OLED is infinite contrast. Black will look black regardless of what else the screen is displaying. I don't know the contrast numbers, but I think most of these are native 2000:1..... Can someone tell me if the numbers for this are different?


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## gadgtfreek

stumlad said:


> If you were looking at OLEDs, chances are high that this wont come anywhere near close to the picture quality an OLED gives. The main selling point of an OLED is infinite contrast. Black will look black regardless of what else the screen is displaying. I don't know the contrast numbers, but I think most of these are native 2000:1..... Can someone tell me if the numbers for this are different?


I have two OLED's, but I am kinda ready for a large screen that isnt $10k and impossible to move.

I get DLP has a black level issue, I see it at the theater where the FP's do not look like the OLED, but, they still look good. I had a 75" Sony 940E, which was outstanding even though it wasn't an OLED, I just got tired of the FALD associated issues and the view angle. I think a DLP projector would be the solution.

Also looking at the videos for the Elite screens UST screen that is around $1100, it helps the image.


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## bix26

gadgtfreek said:


> Can you pro cal a UST projector?




Depends, calibration has nothing to do with the lens system. So some UST’s will and some won’t. Anything that is ISF (Institute of Screeen and Film) certified will certainly be able too. Not having an ISF certification doesn’t mean you can’t calibrate the projector either.


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## gadgtfreek

Ok I usually use Chad B and wasn’t sure how FP or UST cals really are handled, because I’ve never owned one.


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## Troy LaMont

Tuan said:


> There are none, we already have a complete line up of standard throws - UHD50, UHD51A, UHD51ALV, UHD60, UHD65 and UHZ65 on the consumer side.


 @Tuan,

Any idea when the full specs will come out? Interested in color space specifically (DCI P3 coverage).


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## Tuan

Troy LaMont said:


> @Tuan,
> 
> Any idea when the full specs will come out? Interested in color space specifically (DCI P3 coverage).


We'll release more info at launch, which is late Q2.


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## aerodynamics

Troy LaMont said:


> [MENTION=70353]Any idea when the full specs will come out? Interested in color space specifically (DCI P3 coverage).


https://www.digitaltrends.com/home-theater/optoma-p1-laser-ces-2019/:


> We’re especially impressed with Optoma’s claimed color capabilities: 90 percent of DCI-P3, which is all the more remarkable given that it only uses a single blue laser.


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## bix26

aerodynamics said:


> https://www.digitaltrends.com/home-theater/optoma-p1-laser-ces-2019/:




I guess I’m not as impressed as the author. Rec709 is already about 85% of DCI-P3. So 90% is not terrible but nothing to jump up and down about either.


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## gadgtfreek

75%. Living in flat panel world where I have always been, once you get into 90-100, it’s kinda who cares at that point. 90 is fine. Actually I think it is more like 79%, but whatever. 90 was set as the number to get a UHD prem cert.


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## Movie78

Ok, I don't see the specs anywhere, is *3D* supported?


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## cubsfan

Quote:
Originally Posted by *Troy LaMont*  
_ @*Tuan* ,

Any idea when the full specs will come out? Interested in color space specifically (DCI P3 coverage)._

We'll release more info at launch, which is late Q2.


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## bix26

Movie78 said:


> Ok, I don't see the specs anywhere, is *3D* supported?




I asked Tuan on another thread. He did confirm Blu-ray 3D compatability.


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## dreamer

gadgtfreek said:


> If I get one, it will be used for everything, so 25 hours a week prob.



That's hilarious ! 25 hrs for a whole week ? LOL If I don't average twice that, I must be traveling.


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## gadgtfreek

I wish.


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## juic-E-juice

I’m curious. Since Tuan is admitting that this uses the TI 0.47 DMD XPR tech, I’m already concerned that this PJ isn’t an option. I’m making assumptions based on the fact that NONE of the .47 chipped projectors have shown an acceptable input lag time for gaming. I’m actually somewhat baffled that none of the current crop of 4K projectors, regardless of method, have even attempted to pander the the gamer base. With the new console wars moving WELL into 4K territory (even before a lot of other content providers), this on its face seems like a major misstep. 

When looking for a gaming projector, there are only a couple that aim to take the market share, and they are outdated 1080p models from yesteryear. Am I alone in this observation?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## oni222

juic-E-juice said:


> I’m curious. Since Tuan is admitting that this uses the TI 0.47 DMD XPR tech, I’m already concerned that this PJ isn’t an option. I’m making assumptions based on the fact that NONE of the .47 chipped projectors have shown an acceptable input lag time for gaming. I’m actually somewhat baffled that none of the current crop of 4K projectors, regardless of method, have even attempted to pander the the gamer base. With the new console wars moving WELL into 4K territory (even before a lot of other content providers), this on its face seems like a major misstep.
> 
> When looking for a gaming projector, there are only a couple that aim to take the market share, and they are outdated 1080p models from yesteryear. Am I alone in this observation?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I agree with you bud. I game at least 3 hours a day every day or I get cranky.


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## bix26

juic-E-juice said:


> I’m curious. Since Tuan is admitting that this uses the TI 0.47 DMD XPR tech, I’m already concerned that this PJ isn’t an option. I’m making assumptions based on the fact that NONE of the .47 chipped projectors have shown an acceptable input lag time for gaming. I’m actually somewhat baffled that none of the current crop of 4K projectors, regardless of method, have even attempted to pander the the gamer base. With the new console wars moving WELL into 4K territory (even before a lot of other content providers), this on its face seems like a major misstep.
> 
> When looking for a gaming projector, there are only a couple that aim to take the market share, and they are outdated 1080p models from yesteryear. Am I alone in this observation?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I don’t think it’s the dmd to blame, it’s probably the control board that’s to blame. Hopefully who ever makes them (TI or the Manufacturer I’m not sure) improves this. I use a computer monitor with my PS4 Pro at my desk. I prefer this over my projector anyway.


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## MowTin

Can this work on a 133" screen?


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## oni222

MowTin said:


> Can this work on a 133" screen?


Technically it should work even on 150" but the brightness will be less than advertised.
My current Ultra Short Throw Laser projector (Xiaomi) works fine on my 150" screen.


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## bix26

oni222 said:


> Technically it should work even on 150" but the brightness will be less than advertised.
> 
> My current Ultra Short Throw Laser projector (Xiaomi) works fine on my 150" screen.




Ceiling height needs to be taken in consideration too. My PX800HD has a slightly shorter throw .23:1 vs .25:1, 9’ ceilings, projector on top of an 18” console and my 120” screen is just 1” below my ceiling.


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## Troy LaMont

MowTin said:


> Can this work on a 133" screen?


The press release only states up to 120", anything outside of that is pushing the limits of the hardware: bowing, distortion and out of focus elements are what you'd have to deal with.

@oni222, the Xioami is actually rated up to 150", so it should be able to support that. The lenses and hardware setup for the Optoma are different and only rated up to 120".


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## oni222

unretarded said:


> With very good 1080`s in the 6 to 8 hundred buck range and 4K`s in the 1200-2K range...…..the math just does pencil out on a laser one for me, maybe there is some performance metric I am over looking, but my 600 buck lamp based model looks very good......it is going to take a while to break even compared to a lasers costs up front...…..
> 
> 
> I took about 5 minutes to change the bulb with a Philips screw driver and it was good as new again......I wonder what the reduction in lumens curve looks like on a laser and if 4 or 5 thousand hours of that 20k hour rating on the laser is at 80% lumens as new output.
> 
> 
> I think they do pretty well up to the end of maintaining output, a bulb does slope off pretty good.....it just depends on what you want.
> 
> 
> I am not anti laser and now that the prices have been coming down I am looking at them more and more.....but the math is not penciling out for my application at this time, for others it might fit and be perfect for their application.
> 
> 
> Depending on application 20k hours might be a lifetime or a few years.....
> 
> 
> 
> I was just talking yesterday and a friend has some 15 year old 20K projector he wants to hook up, no HDMI and 4:3 output, is that even worth using now at all ? So at some point, no matter how many hours a lamp/laser lasts, it will not play current content...….
> 
> 
> Just some things to mull over...…..I am super excited to see these new laser offerings and that the price is dropping more and more,,,....great times for sure !


I hope this helps because I can only speak about my experience.
I used a Xiaomi UST Laser projector for everything. I mean a good 7+ hours a day every day unless I take a vacation (and I have not for over 15 years).
According to my calculations I am well over the 10,000 hour mark and my projector (that I use as a 150" configuration) is performing the same way it has as day 1.
Now I have gotten my moneys worth ($1600) so even it died today I would be very happy with my purchase.

I plan on buying a new one soon hence why I am watching for the Optoma and LG UST projectors. If either of them uses HDMI 2.1 I will be buying in a heart beat.


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## oni222

Troy LaMont said:


> The press release only states up to 120", anything outside of that is pushing the limits of the hardware: bowing, distortion and out of focus elements are what you'd have to deal with.
> 
> @oni222, the Xioami is actually rated up to 150", so it should be able to support that. The lenses and hardware setup for the Optoma are different and only rated up to 120".


How sad in that case I cannot use this projector.
To my understanding LG's model is only rated to 120" too so that means no upgrade this year for me


----------



## Troy LaMont

oni222 said:


> How sad in that case I cannot use this projector.
> To my understanding LG's model is only rated to 120" too so that means no upgrade this year for me


There are front laser projectors that would fit the bill, slightly more expensive but you could technically go up to 200"+.

Some of the ones I've researched:


Optoma UHZ65
Acer VL7850

Those are both under $4500 but they have others that are out of my price point that start at $7000 and go up.

Other than that, you can always get a bulb based 4K projector that would easily do 150"+ also, some of these options start off at about $1200 street.


----------



## oni222

Troy LaMont said:


> There are front laser projectors that would fit the bill, slightly more expensive but you could technically go up to 200"+.
> 
> Some of the ones I've researched:
> 
> 
> Optoma UHZ65
> Acer VL7850
> 
> Those are both under $4500 but they have others that are out of my price point that start at $7000 and go up.
> 
> Other than that, you can always get a bulb based 4K projector that would easily do 150"+ also, some of these options start off at about $1200 street.


I appreciate the help but I only care about Ultra Short Throw. Other projectors do not interest me in the least.


----------



## bix26

oni222 said:


> How sad in that case I cannot use this projector.
> 
> To my understanding LG's model is only rated to 120" too so that means no upgrade this year for me




Xiaomi announced a 4k version of their projector. Can’t say for sure but I think it’s the throw range as it’s 1080p lineup.


----------



## Troy LaMont

bix26 said:


> Xiaomi announced a 4k version of their projector. Can’t say for sure but I think it’s the throw range as it’s 1080p lineup.


You are correct but with all the same caveats as any other Chinese PJ manufacturer:



Getting it shipped to the US
Getting the menu converted to English
Google Play Store support
Regular customer service and support including warranty

It's not as bright as their previous offerings either, only 1500 lumens (vs 5000 & 7000).

Forum link is here


----------



## bix26

Troy LaMont said:


> You are correct but with all the same caveats as any other Chinese PJ manufacturer:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting it shipped to the US
> 
> Getting the menu converted to English
> 
> Google Play Store support
> 
> Regular customer service and support including warranty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not as bright as their previous offerings either, only 1500 lumens (vs 5000 & 7000).
> 
> 
> 
> Forum link is here




Getting it shipped to the US, I have a felling this won't take long considering that they seem to have an existing relationship with Wall-Mart. Unless Wall-Mart has a huge back stock of the older model, even then they could mark up the 4K version to keep the older relevant.



The Wemax One came with an English menu option preinstalled on International versions, I can't see any reason not to do the same for the 4k version.



Google Play store can be easily installed via APK to circumvent Chinese censorship regulations.



I have a feeling Wall-Mart, ******** or Amazon/eBay(Via Square Trade) could provide some peace of mind.



Certainly riskier than the options from Optoma, LG, and ViewSonic. Although, if you need a UST that can do a 150" screen size in 4K, then this is the only option below $3,000.


----------



## dreamstate

Troy LaMont said:


> You are correct but with all the same caveats as any other Chinese PJ manufacturer:
> 
> 
> 
> Getting it shipped to the US
> Getting the menu converted to English
> Google Play Store support
> Regular customer service and support including warranty
> 
> It's not as bright as their previous offerings either, only 1500 lumens (vs 5000 & 7000).
> 
> Forum link is here


The lumen numbers on the 1080 Xiaomi are confirmed after calibration In the 1300-1400 range. They took the inflated "at light source numbers" and went with those instead of just admitting that the actual ANSI lumens were as previously stated. So, the 4k model is obviously using real ANSI lumen numbers this time so they don't get bashed by people like me continuously online. So, the 4k units are probably around the same brightness as the 1080 models.


----------



## Troy LaMont

oni222 said:


> I appreciate the help but I only care about Ultra Short Throw. Other projectors do not interest me in the least.


I forgot about another Chinese manufacturer, Vava (could be affiliated with Xiaomi), announced a 4K UST PJ you may be interested in. It costs $3500 and I started a thread about it here.


----------



## oni222

Troy LaMont said:


> You are correct but with all the same caveats as any other Chinese PJ manufacturer:
> 
> 
> 
> Getting it shipped to the US
> Getting the menu converted to English
> Google Play Store support
> Regular customer service and support including warranty
> 
> It's not as bright as their previous offerings either, only 1500 lumens (vs 5000 & 7000).
> 
> Forum link is here


Honestly none of those are even close to a real negative. Getting the projector to English is as simple as plugging in a thumb drive. As for google play support I never would of used it even if it did have it. 
I have better equipment plugged in the projector than any Smart TV or Smart Projector could possibly offer.

The Lumens is the only thing close to being a negative and in my environment that wont matter since I built a Cinema room that has no sources of light while watching TV/Playing games.


----------



## oni222

Troy LaMont said:


> I forgot about another Chinese manufacturer, Vava (could be affiliated with Xiaomi), announced a 4K UST PJ you may be interested in. It costs $3500 and I started a thread about it here.


Thank you for that. 
I need to look into it further but you definitely provided me with some great options.


----------



## Troy LaMont

Turned the lights out and this thing came to life! 👍😎


----------



## Fishking

Of all the UST's out there, this one seems to be the one.

To me at least. 

Looking forward to seeing it in a private persons hands who then does a youtube review. Sooner or later I hope it does pop up on youtube.


----------



## frisbeeaddict

Better to wait for optoma p1 or get jmgo u1/sa now? What led unit would be second in line to one of these laser units?


----------



## donaldk

Tuan said:


> There are none, we already have a complete line up of standard throws - UHD50, UHD51A, UHD51ALV, UHD60, UHD65 and UHZ65 on the consumer side.


There's the ZK1050. Optoma UK/EU will launch it at ISE in two weeks. The US launch/introduction was this past summer at Infocomm, according to statements at that show it should be shipping now. Clearly based on the 10K/12K lumens MCL platforms Coretronic showed two years ago. So if you need a bit more lumens;-). These should also fit the UST angled lenses in case you need that, the 10K one one actually was shown with that lens at ISE 2017, the 12Ks were used for a blend. Optoma will do a blend with the 1050 at this year's show. As for the lower end, Optoma does indeed have a fairly comprehensive portfolio of 0.47 and 0.66 DMD projectors. UHZ65 is that considered a consumer product now, these were launched for the commercial market. Saw some virtual tabletops for restaurants last year at ISE, using these, and an tricked-out elevator door.

The p1 box looks different, the lumens are lower, and it is less expensive, so I presume a different platform than the earlier 0.66" DMD P3 demo unit. The Blue only laser phosphor version was picked up by Dell. Not many other's introduced a version of their own, not in blue only, mcl, or filtered mcl (p3). Not even JMGO and the other Chinese vendors that marketed the 1080P versions before seem to have picked it as the basis for their products, or have i just missed them?

Ah that JMGO U1/SA is an Appotronic (also supplies the Hisense) projector.


----------



## donaldk

Troy LaMont said:


> @Tuan,
> 
> Any idea when the full specs will come out? Interested in color space specifically (DCI P3 coverage).


Forget it blue laser-phosphor struggles to reach Rec. 709. MCLA acording to Coretronics does cover Rec. 709. But the p3 demo required serious filtering. And no-one confirmed it actually hit P3, or if it was at 90% or something lower like that. Basically the same engine did over 6K with blue only laser diodes. 5K with Blue and Red diodes defult rec. 709), and 4K in the UST demo that was said to be P3. All manufacturer spec.


----------



## frisbeeaddict

So this isn't as good as the jmgo i1/sa unit?


----------



## Troy LaMont

frisbeeaddict said:


> So this isn't as good as the jmgo i1/sa unit?


I'm willing to say it'll probably be better, the reason I say that is that the Chinese UST projectors to date have absolutely horrible color and color management! Very limited controls for getting a good calibration out of the units so with that said, the Optoma will wipe the floors at least from a calibration and color correction standpoint. Just my $.02.


----------



## bix26

Troy LaMont said:


> I'm willing to say it'll probably be better, the reason I say that is that the Chinese UST projectors to date have absolutely horrible color and color management! Very limited controls for getting a good calibration out of the units so with that said, the Optoma will wipe the floors at least from a calibration and color correction standpoint. Just my $.02.




Totally agree, the coding/processing required to do real-time tone mapping must be extremely difficult. That or pretty much every projector manufacturers design must be super lazy/incompetent. The fact is all projectors except a few high end ones have really struggled with clipping or brightness issues. Then there is the format limitations. HDR10+, Dolby Vision and HLG are the only formats to include metadata for peak B&W values. If the source doesn’t have this info and the display doesn’t meet the BT2020 specs then the HDR performance will be inconsistent. So yeah, I think implementation is the most critical factor regardless of a displays capability.


----------



## niveknow

*larger 120?*

I asked a similar question on the new LG HU85L thread, but someone here just commented on a reason why a projector can't go larger than advertised. i.e the lens and hardware is designed for 120 max.

Can someone explain what the performance cost is going above the marketed 120? I though the 120 number was simply a marketing thing to meet an advertised lumen number since this seems to be a number the market cares about. In otherwords, it CAN go larger but will cost lumens. I'm looking to go 135 and thought I could push either this optima one or the LG HU85L above the advertise 120 if I accept some brightness. However I won't accept a lesser PQ. I'm running the Xiaomi now at 135 and looking to "upgrade" with either this Optima or LG but don't want to replace the fixed screen I already have. 

Thank you!


----------



## Troy LaMont

niveknow said:


> I asked a similar question on the new LG HU85L thread, but someone here just commented on a reason why a projector can't go larger than advertised. i.e the lens and hardware is designed for 120 max.
> 
> Can someone explain what the performance cost is going above the marketed 120? I though the 120 number was simply a marketing thing to meet an advertised lumen number since this seems to be a number the market cares about. In otherwords, it CAN go larger but will cost lumens. I'm looking to go 135 and thought I could push either this optima one or the LG HU85L above the advertise 120 if I accept some brightness. However I won't accept a lesser PQ. I'm running the Xiaomi now at 135 and looking to "upgrade" with either this Optima or LG but don't want to replace the fixed screen I already have.
> 
> Thank you!


I don't think anyone will know for sure until the projector is launched, but the manufacturer's max screen size is usually set in stone for these UST projectors because of the reasons you mentioned. The Xiaomi's are rated up to 150" so that's why it works for your setup. I'm sure the 4K Mijia is rated up to 150" as well, that might be your best shot. You can try contacting the manufacturer directly but they may not release information until the product is released.


----------



## Tuan

niveknow said:


> I asked a similar question on the new LG HU85L thread, but someone here just commented on a reason why a projector can't go larger than advertised. i.e the lens and hardware is designed for 120 max.
> 
> Can someone explain what the performance cost is going above the marketed 120? I though the 120 number was simply a marketing thing to meet an advertised lumen number since this seems to be a number the market cares about. In otherwords, it CAN go larger but will cost lumens. I'm looking to go 135 and thought I could push either this optima one or the LG HU85L above the advertise 120 if I accept some brightness. However I won't accept a lesser PQ. I'm running the Xiaomi now at 135 and looking to "upgrade" with either this Optima or LG but don't want to replace the fixed screen I already have.
> 
> Thank you!


You lose clarity. The lens is only designed to accommodate up to that size. Anything past that and we can't guarantee sharpness or being able to focus it optimally.


----------



## niveknow

Tuan said:


> You lose clarity. The lens is only designed to accommodate up to that size. Anything past that and we can't guarantee sharpness or being able to focus it optimally.


Well.. in a simply respond I think you nailed it. Losing clarity is a deal breaker as that's the end goal for all this optimum picture quality talk. If you don't have clarity and PQ, what's the point in these high end projectors. 

I think you just ruled out all the latest gen LG and Optima and in a way pointing me back to the latest Mijia. So much for counting down to release dates... =(


----------



## tambur123

@Tuan I’ve read on a frech blog that Optoma uhz65ust is the european version of the p1. Do you have any idea if it’s true?


----------



## Tuan

tambur123 said:


> @Tuan I’ve read on a frech blog that Optoma uhz65ust is the european version of the p1. Do you have any idea if it’s true?


Yes


----------



## tambur123

According to passionhomecinema.fr these are the specs for the european version:
- 4K UHD HDR with chip DLP 0.67 XPR X2
- 2,500 to 3,500 lumens
- Projection ratio 0.25: 1
- Optoma NuForce integrated audio bar
- Market Place (application stores)
- InfoWall application: which allows you to create your digital wall with information chosen by you

So either these guys are wrong or it’s a very different projector for eu market, at obviously a much higher price.

L.E.: This is the link, scroll to the optoma section.


----------



## bix26

tambur123 said:


> According to passionhomecinema.fr these are the specs for the european version:
> 
> - 4K UHD HDR with chip DLP 0.67 XPR X2
> 
> - 2,500 to 3,500 lumens
> 
> - Projection ratio 0.25: 1
> 
> - Optoma NuForce integrated audio bar
> 
> - Market Place (application stores)
> 
> - InfoWall application: which allows you to create your digital wall with information chosen by you
> 
> 
> 
> So either these guys are wrong or it’s a very different projector for eu market, at obviously a much higher price.



@Tuan, can you please verify if the EU version is using the .67 x2 DMD? If it does, will it support BluRay 3D like the US version.
Thank you.


----------



## tambur123

tambur123 said:


> According to passionhomecinema.fr these are the specs for the european version:
> - 4K UHD HDR with chip DLP 0.67 XPR X2
> - 2,500 to 3,500 lumens
> - Projection ratio 0.25: 1
> - Optoma NuForce integrated audio bar
> - Market Place (application stores)
> - InfoWall application: which allows you to create your digital wall with information chosen by you
> 
> So either these guys are wrong or it’s a very different projector for eu market, at obviously a much higher price.
> 
> L.E.: This is the link, scroll to the optoma section.



Mystery solved. The page has been edited since my last post and the chip specs were removed. In the comments section the author admits that the info was his guess based on the existing uhz65.

However, according to Optoma representative this unit is 4999euros, not 3000usd as advertised at CES


----------



## da_103

Finally upgraded from my Optoma 5600 to an LG Oled, waiting on P1 to move back to UST land but curious if they will ever just give us a barebone model without all the extra functionality?


----------



## Troy LaMont

bix26 said:


> @Tuan, can you please verify if the EU version is using the .67 x2 DMD? If it does, will it support BluRay 3D like the US version.
> Thank you.


Why would they release two different versions of the same projector with two different DMD chips? 2,000,000% guaranteed that the EU version will also use the .47 DMD, because that makes the most business sense and if my memory serves correct, the US has a higher saturation percentage of front projection usage vs the EU, so the supposed better chip, albeit older, wouldn't make any financial sense in a lesser market.

Edit:


> In the comments section the author admits that the info was his guess based on the existing uhz65.


Again, mystery solved! LOL Figured they wouldn't release two totally different PJs for different markets.


----------



## tambur123

You are probably correct, but why double the price for EU version? Optoma confirmed on twitter the price for EU. Historically speaking Optoma has kept almost the same price in both regions.


----------



## Troy LaMont

tambur123 said:


> You are probably correct, but why double the price for EU version? Optoma confirmed on twitter the price for EU. Historically speaking Optoma has kept almost the same price in both regions.


Wow and ouch! $5700?! Yeah, I don't know about that pricing. Seems way off, I wonder if somebody jumped the gun and accidentally listed the price for the actual UHZ65 (front projection), because that's how much it retailed for when it originally dropped in the EU if I'm not mistaken?!

Let's hope so, I would doubt they'd do any good sales with almost double the price from the US, because any smart person would just have it imported and save a bunch! 🤔


----------



## Dssquared

*Height of UST projectors*

This will be my first foray into projectors, more specifically UST projectors. I am looking at this P1 or the LG that is coming out in mid 2019. I currently have a large Aperion Audio Verus II center channel in an audio cabinet that I want to down size (cabinet not speaker). I am thinking of having a table made that would seat the center channel on the lower shelf maybe a foot or so off the floor and on the the top shelf the UST projector, probably sitting on a Sorbathane mat. My question is this: What is the general height of the UST projector recommended at? The screen size will be 120 inches and based on the data I'm looking at, probably 7 inches from the wall. But what I can't find is how far below the screen must the projector sit? This obviously will help me design the table I will be sitting it on.
I did some searching on here and didn't find a UST board that has general questions so please excuse me if there is one.
Thanks!


----------



## Troy LaMont

Dssquared said:


> This will be my first foray into projectors, more specifically UST projectors. I am looking at this P1 or the LG that is coming out in mid 2019. I currently have a large Aperion Audio Verus II center channel in an audio cabinet that I want to down size (cabinet not speaker). I am thinking of having a table made that would seat the center channel on the lower shelf maybe a foot or so off the floor and on the the top shelf the UST projector, probably sitting on a Sorbathane mat. My question is this: What is the general height of the UST projector recommended at? The screen size will be 120 inches and based on the data I'm looking at, probably 7 inches from the wall. But what I can't find is how far below the screen must the projector sit? This obviously will help me design the table I will be sitting it on.
> I did some searching on here and didn't find a UST board that has general questions so please excuse me if there is one.
> Thanks!


Unfortunately all of the details aren't available for this unit since it's still early, you'd have to wait until the details are released to get a specific answer. You can possibly wing it, basing the distance on currently similar models like the Xioami or Dell (along with a host of others), this will at least get you in the ballpark until the details for this projector are released. For reference, the Dell UST 4K projector needs to be between 7"-10" below the screen.

Hope that helps.


----------



## qoopy

The projected image is usually 40-50cm above the surface the projector is placed on.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Troy LaMont said:


> Art from Projector Reviews
> 
> Turned the lights out and this thing came to life! 👍😎



***The background noise on this video is horrific so it's best to turn on "Closed Captioning" and turn the sound off. Nice video, though. 

Regarding the integrated soundbar - - to me, an added feature that's really not a benefit for those who have a dedicated sound system. But if you are going to integrate a soundbar - - crisp dialog is the number one benefit I would look for. And - an option for those who have a dedicated sound system but want the option to still watch their projector at night, for example, and not wake up everyone in the house. 

If the soundbar is just loud with muddled dialog - - then it's an absolute waste and needlessly increases the cost of the UST Projector and potential market. But again, what do I know. I'm only a consumer looking at what makes sense. We'll find out.


----------



## bix26

Ricoflashback said:


> ***The background noise on this video is horrific so it's best to turn on "Closed Captioning" and turn the sound off. Nice video, though.
> 
> Regarding the integrated soundbar - - to me, an added feature that's really not a benefit for those who have a dedicated sound system. But if you are going to integrate a soundbar - - crisp dialog is the number one benefit I would look for. And - an option for those who have a dedicated sound system but want the option to still watch their projector at night, for example, and not wake up everyone in the house.
> 
> If the soundbar is just loud with muddled dialog - - then it's an absolute waste and needlessly increases the cost of the UST Projector and potential market. But again, what do I know. I'm only a consumer looking at what makes sense. We'll find out.




I remember last year someone pointed out that the Optoma rep was wearing a Sony lanyard much to our amusement. Fast forward a year later and the same guy is still rocking the same Sony Lanyard lol. Not a good look for a brand when they’re wearing a direct competitors swag.


----------



## da_103

Hopefully reviews start arriving soon for this unit and the LG, it'll be fun to see how they stack up.


----------



## Troy LaMont

da_103 said:


> Hopefully reviews start arriving soon for this unit and the LG, it'll be fun to see how they stack up.



Don't hold your breath, we're still months away from launch and most of the reviews will come out right at or just afterwards. I'm thinking June/July at the earliest.


----------



## bix26

Troy LaMont said:


> Don't hold your breath, we're still months away from launch and most of the reviews will come out right at or just afterwards. I'm thinking June/July at the earliest.




That would be great. I’m thinking CES 2020. I’m pretty sure every projector LG has ever lunched was immediately after CES. I hope I’m wrong though.


----------



## da_103

Troy LaMont said:


> Don't hold your breath, we're still months away from launch and most of the reviews will come out right at or just afterwards. I'm thinking June/July at the earliest.


I work in an advertising agency and it always amazes me how these companies don't take advantage of the hype and lunch product's close to their announcement date.


----------



## bix26

da_103 said:


> I work in an advertising agency and it always amazes me how these companies don't take advantage of the hype and lunch product's close to their announcement date.




I agree. Also, a lot of companies get burned because people’s expectations balloon the longer they hold out on their purchase. Then if it’s only as good or slightly better than the comparable products they’ve passed up on, it creates resentment. 

On the other hand this is kind of a really new market segment. I think they want to gauge demand before they begin a lengthy and expensive development.


----------



## Troy LaMont

da_103 said:


> I work in an advertising agency and it always amazes me how these companies don't take advantage of the hype and lunch product's close to their announcement date.


From the manufacturers side, I can see the logic. The most important thing is that most people don't know about 'product x' until it's announced/displayed at the trade shows, CES is one of the biggest. So if the product was available, sales would be very low initially and if the product was a hit, they would ramp up. The manufacturer would hope this ramping up would happen quickly but most of the time it would be slower than they anticipate making for a pretty dull launch and product sales would be hurt.

So by making the release date of the announced product later, they build anticipation, buzz and hopefully potential buyers for 'product x'. They can easily gauge the chatter on the interwebs with the big name data marts (Google etc) to get an idea if the product will sell big. Not only that but releasing later gives them an opportunity to judge the competition and work out any bugs or hardware issues with 'product x' before it's actually released.

At least that's how it works for the AV side of life, different products have different cycles.


----------



## da_103

Troy LaMont said:


> From the manufacturers side, I can see the logic. The most important thing is that most people don't know about 'product x' until it's announced/displayed at the trade shows, CES is one of the biggest. So if the product was available, sales would be very low initially and if the product was a hit, they would ramp up. The manufacturer would hope this ramping up would happen quickly but most of the time it would be slower than they anticipate making for a pretty dull launch and product sales would be hurt.
> 
> So by making the release date of the announced product later, they build anticipation, buzz and hopefully potential buyers for 'product x'. They can easily gauge the chatter on the interwebs with the big name data marts (Google etc) to get an idea if the product will sell big. Not only that but releasing later gives them an opportunity to judge the competition and work out any bugs or hardware issues with 'product x' before it's actually released.
> 
> At least that's how it works for the AV side of life, different products have different cycles.




Oh I agree, showing new tech with a release date far in the future works but when it comes to new products I think three months is the max. Building hype is simple, release test units for review and push advertising close to the release date, but waiting 7 months in my opinion just doesn't work.


----------



## niveknow

ZZZZZZzzzz ...waiting.... =)


----------



## Sonny2160p

niveknow said:


> ZZZZZZzzzz ...waiting.... =)




Boooring, purchased the Mijia 4K instead


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mlkconcept

Hi, does these UST laser projectors from Optoma really have the lumens they claim or it's light source lumens like the Xiaomi models and you have to divide it by 3 to get the real screen lumens?
I've a xiaomi 5.000 lumens, but they are actually 1.500, and I want to replace it for an Optoma ust laser, 3D is very important for my choice, so I was thinking in P1 or maybe the HZ45UST (I think its the european name) that claims 4.200 lumens, are these the real lumens or it`s more like 1400 real lumens?
Any recomendation for a good/best Full 3d UST Laser projector?


----------



## bix26

mlkconcept said:


> Hi, does these UST laser projectors from Optoma really have the lumens they claim or it's light source lumens like the Xiaomi models and you have to divide it by 3 to get the real screen lumens?
> 
> I've a xiaomi 5.000 lumens, but they are actually 1.500, and I want to replace it for an Optoma ust laser, 3D is very important for my choice, so I was thinking in P1 or maybe the HZ45UST (I think its the european name) that claims 4.200 lumens, are these the real lumens or it`s more like 1400 real lumens?
> 
> Any recomendation for a good/best Full 3d UST Laser projector?




Since it’s only one red laser that needs to be converted to green and blue, it probably won’t be as bright as your Xiaomi which I believe has red and blue lasers. The Vava 4k might be worth considering it’s likely based on the new Xiaomi 4k versions hardware. It’s available for preorder now from indiegogo’s guaranteed purchase program. It’s also less than the Optoma. I can’t speak on it’s quality I haven’t seen or read any good reviews on it yet.


----------



## mlkconcept

bix26 said:


> Since it’s only one red laser that needs to be converted to green and blue, it probably won’t be as bright as your Xiaomi which I believe has red and blue lasers. The Vava 4k might be worth considering it’s likely based on the new Xiaomi 4k versions hardware. It’s available for preorder now from indiegogo’s guaranteed purchase program. It’s also less than the Optoma. I can’t speak on it’s quality I haven’t seen or read any good reviews on it yet.


I think the Xiaomi only has blue laser. It's very bright but not enough for good 3D on a 120 XY screen. 
So for all these ust laser projectors we have to divide the announced lumens by the number of lasers? I thought it was only a Xiaomi marketing. 
There isn't any with at least 3.000 real lumens or so? Thanks bix26

Enviado desde mi SM-G950F mediante Tapatalk


----------



## bix26

mlkconcept said:


> I think the Xiaomi only has blue laser. It's very bright but not enough for good 3D on a 120 XY screen.
> So for all these ust laser projectors we have to divide the announced lumens by the number of lasers? I thought it was only a Xiaomi marketing.
> There isn't any with at least 3.000 real lumens or so? Thanks bix26
> 
> Enviado desde mi SM-G950F mediante Tapatalk




Most of these projectors are using the Apptronics ALPD 3.0 light engine, I know Xiaomi and Vava do. So pretty much all of them should have similar brightness. There isn’t any real rhyme or reason to manufactures brightness claims, they can pretty much say whatever they want since there isn’t any real standard of how to measure brightness.

The Xiaomi is about as bright as it gets. It should be bright enough for 3D. Your screen might be reducing brightness because it’s an ALR type. Glasses can have a big effect on brightness as well. You might try a different pair from a different maker.

So far the Dell S718QL and Xiaomi Wemax One (black case version) are the brightest. I think the Dell has come down in price quite a bit. It has about 2,500 lumens measured by projectorcentral. I think HDTVTest measured the Wemax One at around 2,000 lumens.


----------



## mlkconcept

bix26 said:


> Most of these projectors are using the Apptronics ALPD 3.0 light engine, I know Xiaomi and Vava do. So pretty much all of them should have similar brightness. There isn’t any real rhyme or reason to manufactures brightness claims, they can pretty much say whatever they want since there isn’t any real standard of how to measure brightness.
> 
> The Xiaomi is about as bright as it gets. It should be bright enough for 3D. Your screen might be reducing brightness because it’s an ALR type. Glasses can have a big effect on brightness as well. You might try a different pair from a different maker.
> 
> So far the Dell S718QL and Xiaomi Wemax One (black case version) are the brightest. I think the Dell has come down in price quite a bit. It has about 2,500 lumens measured by projectorcentral. I think HDTVTest measured the Wemax One at around 2,000 lumens.


Ok I see, I think that the Dell has two laser sources so it's much brighter, tough I think it has 0,66 chip that doesn't allows 3D. And someone told me that the new Xiaomi 4k is actually brighter than the Wemax, in same conditions, hard decision as always. I'll take a look to the Vava or maybe a different projector screen. Thanks for the info, it has been very useful

Enviado desde mi SM-G950F mediante Tapatalk


----------



## bix26

mlkconcept said:


> Ok I see, I think that the Dell has two laser sources so it's much brighter, tough I think it has 0,66 chip that doesn't allows 3D. And someone told me that the new Xiaomi 4k is actually brighter than the Wemax, in same conditions, hard decision as always. I'll take a look to the Vava or maybe a different projector screen. Thanks for the info, it has been very useful
> 
> Enviado desde mi SM-G950F mediante Tapatalk




That’s right, I forgot the Dell lacks 3D.


----------



## TexasDJ

13 pages later in the Xiaomi 4k 2019 thread, we cant even get a confirmation if it supports 3D... do you happen to know if it does? Mine wont be here for 3 weeks and it would kill me if it didnt even support 3D. Does it just need to proper chip to support it, or does it also have to allowed by the PJ software?


----------



## mlkconcept

TexasDJ said:


> 13 pages later in the Xiaomi 4k 2019 thread, we cant even get a confirmation if it supports 3D... do you happen to know if it does? Mine wont be here for 3 weeks and it would kill me if it didnt even support 3D. Does it just need to proper chip to support it, or does it also have to allowed by the PJ software?


Not confirmed yet, but it's listed as 3D on Gear Best and AliExpress:

Product Detail
Lamp: ALPD 
Bluetooth: Support 
Picture Formats: PG, JPEG, BMP, GIF, PNG, TIF 
Video Formats: MPEG - 1 / 2 / 4, H.263, H.264, H.265, AVI, RM, RMVB, VC - 1 
Audio Formats: MP1, MP2, MP3, WMA, WAV, OGG, FLAC, AAC, Dolby Digital, Dolby Digital Plus, M4A 
Power Supply: 200-240V / 50 - 60Hz 
Built-in Speaker: Yes 
Compatible with: Computer,Laptop 
DVB-T Supported: Yes 
External Subtitle Supported: Yes 
3D: Yes 
Application: Entertainment,Home



Model Xiaomi mijia 4K laser projectorResolution4K (3840x2160dpi)SystemAndroidRAM+ ROM2GB DDR3+16GB eMMCCPUT968-HFunctionWifi / BluetoothBrightness5000  LumensContrast3001:1-4000:1Throw Ratio0.233:1Video Effect 2D / 3D


I think only international versions don't support 3D

Enviado desde mi SM-G950F mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Troy LaMont

TexasDJ said:


> 13 pages later in the Xiaomi 4k 2019 thread, we cant even get a confirmation if it supports 3D... do you happen to know if it does? Mine wont be here for 3 weeks and it would kill me if it didnt even support 3D. Does it just need to proper chip to support it, or does it also have to allowed by the PJ software?


3D support was confirmed a long time ago from the Optoma rep...


----------



## Frank714

Apparently the Optoma P1 has now become the "highly-anticipated" "Cinemax P1": https://www.prweb.com/releases/opto...projectors_at_infocomm_2019/prweb16370749.htm

Excerpt: _A highly-anticipated home cinema projector, the smart 4K UHD laser and ultra short throw Optoma CinemaX P1 will also be on display in a home cinema vignette, showcasing incredible 4K UHD projection alongside impressive smart functions and voice control. The CinemaX P1 features an integrated NuForce soundbar for powerful audio performance and HDR technology for breathtaking color, deep blacks and bright whites. The CinemaX P1 also features smart home skill support for today’s popular digital assistants, including Amazon Alexa and Google Home, and IFTTT support for seamless smart home automation with smart IoT devices. This all-in-one home cinema projector also offers an easy auto geometry correction system driven by the SmartFIT app and Firmware Over-the-Air (FOTA) technology for hassle-free software updates, as well as support for Dolby Digital and Dolby Digital Plus pass through over optical and HDMI arc._

Curious, haven't been able to yet find one image of it revealing its access panel for HDMI hookup et cetera.


----------



## GregK

bix26 said:


> I asked Tuan on another thread. He did confirm Blu-ray 3D compatability.


Excellent. Hopefully Optoma returns to providing a standard VESA 3-D output for RF glasses instead of being locked into only the DLP-Link glasses mode.

All of their 3-D 1080p models have and continue to offer this, but to date oddly none of their 4K 3-D models do.

Epson and other non-DLP 4K 3-D projector providers offer the superior VESA option as they have no choice, but it would be nice if Optoma allows us to have the best of both worlds with 4K DLP 3-D and the choice of optional RF 3-D.


----------



## bix26

GregK said:


> Excellent. Hopefully Optoma returns to providing a standard VESA 3-D output for RF glasses instead of being locked into only the DLP-Link glasses mode.
> 
> 
> 
> All of their 3-D 1080p models have and continue to offer this, but to date oddly none of their 4K 3-D models do.
> 
> 
> 
> Epson and other non-DLP 4K 3-D projector providers offer the superior VESA option as they have no choice, but it would be nice if Optoma allows us to have the best of both worlds with 4K DLP 3-D and the choice of optional RF 3-D.




Honestly, I haven’t ever used rf glasses. I can say that good DLP link glasses don’t really have any shortcomings in my experience. I think DLP link has gotten a bad rap. I’m sure that their are some poorly made glasses out there, but not the ones I’ve used.


----------



## GregK

I've used DLP link on two previous projectors and then RF on my last two projectors. (well.. one was a mix but ya get the idea)

If all I ever used was DLP link I would have been content but RF glasses sync wise are always rock solid. Plus the screen is not tinted with DLP red flash needed for DLP link glasses. This is especially nice when watching content that has mixed 2-D and 3-D, but remains in the 3-D mode throughout (Tron Legacy, Spy Kids 3-D, The Mask, Bellboy.. etc)


----------



## Frank714

GregK said:


> Hopefully Optoma returns to providing a standard VESA 3-D output for RF glasses instead of being locked into only the DLP-Link glasses mode.


 @Tuan might have an answer. I've not yet been able to find one image of the "CinemaX" P1 revealing its access panel nor an exhibit video where any of the reviewers featured that section on the back.


Somehow the CinemaX P1 looks increasingly like a prototype study to me.


(Not that I mind as I'm probably what you'd call an Optoma _traditional_ front projector fan boy.  And yes, *please* bring those VESA "3D Sync" ports for 3D-RF back, because your competitors are too stupid to realize their value for 3D users and their home theaters. It's good to see that the HD27 gaming projectors feature these "3D Sync" ports, but I'm pretty certain that its rather the "home entertainment" community that really - if not desperately - wants these "3D Sync" ports back)


----------



## GregK

Frank714 said:


> @Tuan might have an answer. I've not yet been able to find one image of the "CinemaX" P1 revealing its access panel nor an exhibit video where any of the reviewers featured that section on the back.
> 
> 
> Somehow the CinemaX P1 looks increasingly like a prototype study to me.
> 
> 
> (Not that I mind as I'm probably what you'd call an Optoma _traditional_ front projector fan boy.  And yes, *please* bring those VESA "3D Sync" ports for 3D-RF back, because your competitors are too stupid to realize their value for 3D users and their home theaters. It's good to see that the HD27 gaming projectors feature these "3D Sync" ports, but I'm pretty certain that its rather the "home entertainment" community that really - if not desperately - wants these "3D Sync" ports back)


Another plus with a VESA sync port is your RF emitter and RF glasses (if done correctly) are essentially projector agnostic. My emitter has an offset adjust option so the timing to the glasses can be adjusted for non-Optoma projectors (not a problem for me as I've been an Optoma customer starting with their first 3-D projector) A VESA port allows customers to keep their current emitter and RF glasses, and depending on how many RF 3-D glasses one already owns, that too can play a decision in which projector to buy.


----------



## drdoom2k

Some video has been posted on youtube today, showing the P1?


----------



## bix26

drdoom2k said:


> Some video has been posted on youtube today, showing the P1?
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlSV1FX7spw




I really hope this pj is good. But I’m a little worried it won’t be. Every video I’ve seen the skin tones look really orange, while green and blue look under-saturated. I think the single red laser might be a big limitation.


----------



## Frank714

Just noticed that Projector Reviews has delayed its review of the P1 "until July", so that could indicate a new release date.


----------



## Gae80uk

bix26 said:


> I really hope this pj is good. But I’m a little worried it won’t be. Every video I’ve seen the skin tones look really orange, while green and blue look under-saturated. I think the single red laser might be a big limitation.


I feel you mate...hopefully this is due to the recording camera but colours look bit oversaturated and messed up.
With LG out of price range, this looks like the second best option if confirmed around $2.9k. And with HLG support is looks perfect for Sky Q owners.


----------



## super kermit

Following


----------



## Troy LaMont

So this just happened! Sweet feature!


----------



## Gae80uk

This pj is getting more and more interesting...


----------



## Brajesh

Nothing new since InfoComm 2019 two weeks ago. Optoma, release this PJ already!


----------



## dfenser

Brajesh said:


> Nothing new since InfoComm 2019 two weeks ago. Optoma, release this PJ already!


The new LG 4k UST released in Korea last week at around $5k USD. So I doubt Optoma will feel any pressure to budge from their $3k price point, especially since they won't have the competition of the cheaper models that are currently confined to China.


----------



## Gae80uk

dfenser said:


> The new LG 4k UST released in Korea last week at around $5k USD. So I doubt Optoma will feel any pressure to budge from their $3k price point, especially since they won't have the competition of the cheaper models that are currently confined to China.


Yep, if they can keep the pricing around $2.5k they could easily find a sweet spot between the elite LG one and the average Chinese ones


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## jefferey13

Been following this and the HU85LA for about 6 months now. With this being half the price of the LG, doesn't it make the Optoma the clear winner now? What could warrant the LG being double the price?


----------



## CarlosLehder

It has double the lasers.


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## jefferey13

CarlosLehder said:


> It has double the lasers.


Sure, but I can't understand that warranting double the price.


----------



## Gae80uk

Looks like P1 will be released this August for $2999...hopefully July will be the month of first previews/reviews


----------



## drdoom2k

Gae80uk said:


> Looks like P1 will be released this August for $2999...hopefully July will be the month of first previews/reviews


Now thats some exciting news - any source on that one?


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## Gae80uk

drdoom2k said:


> Now thats some exciting news - any source on that one?


Not an official source but rumours coming from someone working at Optoma


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## Ricoflashback

CarlosLehder said:


> It has double the lasers.


***Yeah, but does it have double the picture quality?


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## dfenser

Ricoflashback said:


> ***Yeah, but does it have double the picture quality?


It should be brighter, which is a big component of picture when it comes to a projector.


----------



## Gae80uk

Ricoflashback said:


> ***Yeah, but does it have double the picture quality?


Honestly, last video about LG HU85LA had some impressive picture quality with low light. 
Said so, few people can afford to spend $6k so I believe Optoma is the best affordable option in terms of quality/price at the moment


----------



## Gae80uk

Allright guys, some good/bad news here:

Just spoke over the phone with Audio Affair (UK retailer) and they mentioned launch date August but retail price £3.999
Link below: https://www.audioaffair.co.uk/optoma-uhz65ust-ultra-short-throw-4k-laser-projector

:O


----------



## J Bone

Hopefully that's an inflated price for overseas purchases. Even Optoma's own website has it at $2999 MSRP stated on its announcement article about the Optoma P1.

If they just increased this to barely undercut the price of the new LG's announced price then that leaves me pretty upset to say the least.

If these prices are correct then for the few extra hundred dollars to have a dual laser and better overall color performance then the LG might be the better buy.

It once again looks like the new ViewSonic X-10004K is going to be the best bang for the buck.

The rep at Infocomm 2019 stated it had an $1,800 price tag and an expected launch in September. I think he mispriced the product because on the announcement article on their own website states it at $2,800. 

I guess now it's just a waiting game to see what these manufacturers actually do. And this game really sucks.



Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


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## bix26

All the UST options seem to needlessly fall short in one way or another. The Optoma only has one red laser, so the color accuracy and brightness will probably suffer. Then the LG likely doesn’t have 3D support (according to B&H) and is priced at double its competition. Then there’s the ViewSonic that can only handle a max of 100”s. The Xiaomi has judder and poor HDR implementation. If any of these issues were cost prohibitive it would be less frustrating. Really, all of these quirks could have been easily remedied considering how long they’ve been in development. I’ve been waiting to upgrade my HD UST for over a year, are Optoma, LG, ViewSonic and Xiaomi allergic to my money? The optoma is the front runner for me at the moment, but I hope someone comes out with a better option. Or maybe the single red laser won’t have the negative affects I’m concerned about idk fingers crossed.


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## Frank714

Curious, after InfoComm ProjectorCentral didn't mention a price but just "TBD":


https://www.projectorcentral.com/infocomm-2019-award-winners.htm#optoma_p1


Same in the InfoComm Optoma press release:


https://www.optoma.com/us/optoma-wins-two-best-of-show-awards-at-infocomm-2019/


----------



## Floorit72

Optoma USA confirmed with me via email that the release date is August and the Display technology:  Single 0.47” 4K UHD ECD DMD by Texas Instruments™. 
They also confirmed the UHZ65UST is the European model.

The information on these dmd chips is confusing to me. Does anyone know if this is the same chip used in the Optoma UHD50-51 models? If not, what would be the difference?

Thank you.


----------



## bix26

Floorit72 said:


> Optoma USA confirmed with me via email that the release date is August and the Display technology:  Single 0.47” 4K UHD ECD DMD by Texas Instruments.
> 
> They also confirmed the UHZ65UST is the European model.
> 
> 
> 
> The information on these dmd chips is confusing to me. Does anyone know if this is the same chip used in the Optoma UHD50-51 models? If not, what would be the difference?
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you.




The UHD50-51 had an issue with a light boarder and really low contrast. TI has refined the DMD so that the light boarder is so small it’s hardly an issue and the contrast has slightly improved. Considering all .47” projectors released in 2019 have used the revised chip it’s safe to say that the P1 will likely use the revised version as well.


----------



## Floorit72

Thank you for the info. 

I saw demos of the UHD65 and UHZ65. In your experience would there be night and day difference comparing them to the P1 or would it be fairly close in quality?

With the P1s .47" 1080p native resolution chip, would a 4k bluray look sharper than a 1080p bluray? I wouldn't think it would but I'm hoping it would somehow be sharper with more noticable detail than a regular 1080p bluray.

I really appreciate your help!


----------



## Brajesh

bix26 said:


> The UHD50-51 had an issue with a light boarder and really low contrast.


I’ve had a UHD51A since its release and find the contrast fairly solid. The light border is there, but addressed that by widening the black masking around my screen. Recently tried the Xiaomi UST, which had a little better contrast, but also clipped whites. Plus other shortcomings, so decided to stick with UHD51A and see if the upcoming P1 is better.


----------



## Floorit72

Do you notice an improvement on your uhd51a when you're watching 4k content versus 1080p? How is the 3d if you're watching that too?


----------



## JackB

Floorit72 said:


> Thank you for the info.
> 
> I saw demos of the UHD65 and UHZ65. In your experience would there be night and day difference comparing them to the P1 or would it be fairly close in quality?
> 
> With the P1s .47" 1080p native resolution chip, would a 4k bluray look sharper than a 1080p bluray? I wouldn't think it would but I'm hoping it would somehow be sharper with more noticable detail than a regular 1080p bluray.
> 
> I really appreciate your help!


The two 65s used the better chip so the contrast on them is better than what you will see with the .47 chip. 4K BR will look much better than 1080P BR on either chip.


----------



## Floorit72

Thank you for responding. I was really hoping the p1 was going to have the .66 chip. Hopefully this model performs well and lives up to the 2 million to 1 contrast ratio they are claiming.


----------



## Brajesh

Floorit72 said:


> Do you notice an improvement on your uhd51a when you're watching 4k content versus 1080p? How is the 3d if you're watching that too?


Yes, that's why eBay'd off my Xiaomi. 4K is the best mode on it, but even then PJ doesn't support 23.976/24, and motion judder is noticeable (especially in camera pans). 3D is good in terms of brightness & depth, but only certain DLP-link glasses work, and 3D must be engaged/disengaged manually. Another problem is there's only one picture mode across formats (2D, 3D, 1080p, 4K SDR, 4K HDR). See the Xiaomi thread, where I posted a two-part, fairly in-depth review. There are things to like about the Xiaomi, but the sum of all its flaws/annoyances were too much to ignore.


----------



## Floorit72

Thanks for the feedback. Isn't the frame interloping adjustable when watching 2d and 3d? Do you think there will be a jittery image with the p1?


----------



## Frank714

I expect Optoma's PureMotion frame interpolation to equally work for 2D and 3D. 


Optoma models equipped with PureMotion FI in the past also provided FI für 3D program content, I'd be rather disappointed if this wasn't the case with the P1, too.


----------



## Floorit72

Thank you for the feedback Frank. If I were purchase the P1 and it had image jitter, I wouldn't be happy.


----------



## Floorit72

What is 3d like on a home projector compared to the movie theater?


----------



## ryudoadema

Floorit72 said:


> What is 3d like on a home projector compared to the movie theater?


For me (had a w1070 and now an ht3050), I haven't seen a 3d movie in theaters that was better than on my pj at home.


There is no ghosting/crosstalk on dlps and you can dial it in just how you like it. That is a huge benefit if you've ever been to a theater that just completely botched there setup somehow (Dark Pheonix i watched with a second dimmer offset image). It is very immersive and seems sharper than normal 1080p. Alita in Imax 3d was really good, but I fully expect my at home experience to equal or best the theaters.

My 3d is getting a little dim after 1500 hours on the bulb with darker content. That is one of the biggest hurdles with a lot of ht pj's when it comes to 3d. So I am looking to a bright 3d and 4k laser projector next. This P1 and Viewsonic's LS-7004k are on my shortlist.


----------



## GregK

ryudoadema said:


> For me (had a w1070 and now an ht3050), I haven't seen a 3d movie in theaters that was better than on my pj at home.
> 
> 
> There is no ghosting/crosstalk on dlps and you can dial it in just how you like it. That is a huge benefit if you've ever been to a theater that just completely botched there setup somehow (Dark Pheonix i watched with a second dimmer offset image). It is very immersive and seems sharper than normal 1080p. Alita in Imax 3d was really good, but I fully expect my at home experience to equal or best the theaters.
> 
> My 3d is getting a little dim after 1500 hours on the bulb with darker content. That is one of the biggest hurdles with a lot of ht pj's when it comes to 3d. So I am looking to a bright 3d and 4k laser projector next. This P1 and Viewsonic's LS-7004k are on my shortlist.


Plus 1 to all the points above. My bulb is starting to dim a little too, but my home 3-D projection is always FAR more consistent than what I experience in theaters. I've been in packed cinemas where they've botched the 3-D presentation in some way or another. If you notice and say something, they'll give ya a free ticket for later, but for those who don't complain or know any better, they almost never stop down a showing. 

And with DLP, 3-D ghosting is never an issue. From a L/R 3-D cancellation standpoint, DLP has better separation specs than circular polarized Real-D & linear polarized IMAX theatrical 3-D presentations.


----------



## Floorit72

Thank you very much for the feedback on the 3D!!! I'm really looking forward to getting a projector even more now. Have watched any 3d movies that were half SBS mkv files? I am wondering how the quality is compared to a 3d bluray?
Thank you again!!


----------



## ryudoadema

Floorit72 said:


> Thank you very much for the feedback on the 3D!!! I'm really looking forward to getting a projector even more now. Have watched any 3d movies that were half SBS mkv files? I am wondering how the quality is compared to a 3d bluray?
> Thank you again!!



Obviously this is coming from two fans of the format  I do prefer blu-ray, but I also have plenty of sbs and some ou on my NAS and honestly if they are high quality there's not too much of a difference to my eyes. They still look really good imo. I'm a little bit of a stickler in that area, but my eyes are not perfect either. I probably should have glasses, but I feel like I'm pretty good at the distance I sit at...No one else I know is picky like me and none of them would ever notice a difference on my 100" screen.


----------



## Floorit72

That's great!! I'm starting to collect 3d bluray and sbs files. I'm actually getting pretty excited about getting a projector soon. It's nice to get direct feedback rather than trying to find it in articles. 

What is the smallest file size you would watch for 3d 1080p sbs files? I saw some documentaries that were 3 to 4 gigs and movies as small as 5 gigs. What do you think the quality would be like on those?
Thanks again for your feedback.


----------



## ryudoadema

Floorit72 said:


> That's great!! I'm starting to collect 3d bluray and sbs files. I'm actually getting pretty excited about getting a projector soon. It's nice to get direct feedback rather than trying to find it in articles.
> 
> What is the smallest file size you would watch for 3d 1080p sbs files? I saw some documentaries that were 3 to 4 gigs and movies as small as 5 gigs. What do you think the quality would be like on those?
> Thanks again for your feedback.


I try to keep my sbs files as high as possible. Basically ~20gb or higher I guess? Depends on the length mostly. A little less is fine, but after that I would definitely start noticing the lower quality. They would still be watchable, though. I burn most everything to full mkv frame-packing now. They are a little smaller than the blu-ray depending on which tracks I keep and if I mux in atmos.

3-5 gbs would be stretching it for me. You'll just have to try one out. I would guess there would be some serious banding at that level which annoys me...


----------



## Floorit72

Thanks again for the feedback. I will post details if or when I get the p1


----------



## GregK

Floorit72 said:


> That's great!! I'm starting to collect 3d bluray and sbs files. I'm actually getting pretty excited about getting a projector soon. It's nice to get direct feedback rather than trying to find it in articles.
> 
> What is the smallest file size you would watch for 3d 1080p sbs files? I saw some documentaries that were 3 to 4 gigs and movies as small as 5 gigs. What do you think the quality would be like on those?
> Thanks again for your feedback.


One thing to remember with SBS 3D and lower file sizes is you now have half resolution with SBS *and* more compression. Not a great combination.
ryudoadema gives good advice on 20gig or higher. 

Here's my 2 cents take on file size (compression) and screen size- While a given higher compressed file might pass as good on a 27" monitor, it could turn into passable if viewed on a 55" display, and could start looking motley on a 110" plus screen.

Add to that is what people consider acceptable, which will of course vary.


----------



## drdoom2k

Floorit72 said:


> Thanks again for the feedback. I will post details if or when I get the p1


Well, join the queue - on that note, I am growing a bit unpatient with waiting around for some sort of news on these PJs...waiting for the LG, waiting for the P1...


----------



## Floorit72

Thank you the feedback on 3d file sizes, it makes it much clearer for me now.

On a pixel shifting projector, what do you think the quality will be like for a compressed 4k hdr mkv file around 25 gigs versus a remux? Do you think the compressed files would look fairly close to a remux and or look very good?

I talked with a retailer yesterday and they told me they expect to have the p1 in the first couple weeks of August.


----------



## mlkconcept

A new Xiaomi 9000 Lumens 4k has been unveiled. I'm looking forward this Optoma, Is this one 3000 real Ansi lumens or is it light source?


----------



## Gae80uk

mlkconcept said:


> A new Xiaomi 9000 Lumens 4k has been unveiled. I'm looking forward this Optoma, Is this one 3000 real Ansi lumens or is it light source?


Bit unsure about these 9000 lumens...previous Wemax was 7000 but real ANSI were around 1500.
Putting all my hopes on P1 if the final price is less than $3k


----------



## mlkconcept

Yes I know, my question was if the Optoma is 3.000 real lumens, thanks

Enviado desde mi SM-G950F mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Troy LaMont

mlkconcept said:


> Yes I know, my question was if the Optoma is 3.000 real lumens, thanks
> 
> Enviado desde mi SM-G950F mediante Tapatalk


It'll be close to that in a non-calibrated mode. In best movie mode, maybe 1800-2200 based on it's big brother the UHZ65 (probably the same light engine but smaller DLP chip.)


----------



## Floorit72

This is a copy of an email that a manager received back from the engineers in response to my questions on the CinemaX P1 specs.

I would love to hear some feedback on the quality and performance based on these. Will 3d have a jittery image because there isn't frame interloping?


Is frame interloping available for all content 720p, 1080p, 4k at all frame rates supported?
Yes.

 

Frame interloping for 3d content?

No.

 

Fix the white boarder on the .47 chip?

Yes.

What is the native contrast on the P1? 
15000:1 However, this requires verification.


Will there be a ust version coming out using the better .66 chip?
TI has made considerably improvements to 0.47 DMD. The performance is now on par with the 0.66 DMD.

Can 3d content be played via usb from a hard drive?
Yes.

 

Can Kodi application be downloaded to the unit?
Unverified. We are still in testing mode.

Will 4k bluray be sharper and show more detail than a 1080p bluray outside of using HDR?
Yes. 4K combined with the glass lens produces significantly sharper images than 1080p.

Picture uniformity percentage?
90%.


----------



## Gae80uk

Now we just need a final confirmed price and launch date :/


----------



## Johnny nz

I am getting a bit bored waiting though, what was the last rumored date ??


----------



## Gae80uk

Johnny nz said:


> I am getting a bit bored waiting though, what was the last rumored date ??


End of Aug...:I


----------



## Self-Righteous

LG is now on sale at $6000.


----------



## J Bone

Self-Righteous said:


> LG is now on sale at $6000.




Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## bix26

Yet another option in the UST space. I’m excited to see more and more options. Even if some don’t interest me, they will help drive down the exorbitant premiums of the current UST projectors.

https://www.passionhomecinema.fr/bl...r-ultra-courte-focale-laser-xiaomi-ecosystem/


----------



## Brajesh

These Xiaomi UST variations all look basically the same.


----------



## Gae80uk

if $2.999 gets confirmed, this is the PJ to go in 2019. 

Best cost/effective ratio between LG and Vava...with Viewsonic x-1000 as sparring partner


----------



## drdoom2k

Gae80uk said:


> if $2.999 gets confirmed, this is the PJ to go in 2019.
> 
> Best cost/effective ratio between LG and Vava...with Viewsonic x-1000 as sparring partner


Source?


----------



## Gae80uk

drdoom2k said:


> Source?


here? 

https://www.projectorscreen.com/opt...laser-projector-with-integrated-soundbar.html


----------



## Self-Righteous

It would be a bit of a stretch to imagine that the soundbar could produce a stereo image wide enough to service a 100 inch picture. Come to think of it, who has a home speaker system suitable for these huge displays?


----------



## Nath91sl

What about this from Xiaomi - WEMAX A300.

• 9000 ANSI lumens
• 250 nit brightness
• 4000:1 central contrast

Any thoughts?

https://www.xiaomitoday.com/wemax-a300-4k-laser-projector/


----------



## Troy LaMont

Nath91sl said:


> What about this from Xiaomi - WEMAX A300.
> 
> • 9000 ANSI lumens
> • 250 nit brightness
> • 4000:1 central contrast
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> https://www.xiaomitoday.com/wemax-a300-4k-laser-projector/


There's already a thread about that projector started, this thread is about the Optoma P1.


----------



## Nath91sl

Troy LaMont said:


> There's already a thread about that projector started, this thread is about the Optoma P1.


I was more asking how this compares to the optima? It seems very close on specs unless I am missing something?


----------



## Troy LaMont

Nath91sl said:


> I was more asking how this compares to the optima? It seems very close on specs unless I am missing something?


The lumen output is over exaggerated as always with Xiaomi projectors, so we'll have to wait and see what the 'real world' lumens are. Secondly and most importantly, ALL of these Chinese manufactured projectors suck when it comes to accurate colors as they don't have any good color calibration settings built into the projector. Thirdly this is intended for Chinese consumers mainly and although people are buying them in droves, customer service, regular operation and the OS are mostly for Chinese UNLESS they make an international version like they did with their first 1080p projector (that sells through WalMart) which is unlikely.

Comparison is like comparing a Mercedes S Class (Optoma) to a Honda Accord (Xiaomi). With Optoma you'd have US based customer service and warranty as well as VERY accurate colors.

Also, the Xiaomi was just released and the Optoma isn't even out yet so a real comparison isn't possible. We try to keep the threads here on topic to the specific hardware, FYI.


----------



## Gae80uk

Yes guys, would be great to keep focus on P1...looks like it's coming soon 



Troy LaMont said:


> The lumen output is over exaggerated as always with Xiaomi projectors, so we'll have to wait and see what the 'real world' lumens are. Secondly and most importantly, ALL of these Chinese manufactured projectors suck when it comes to accurate colors as they don't have any good color calibration settings built into the projector. Thirdly this is intended for Chinese consumers mainly and although people are buying them in droves, customer service, regular operation and the OS are mostly for Chinese UNLESS they make an international version like they did with their first 1080p projector (that sells through WalMart) which is unlikely.
> 
> Comparison is like comparing a Mercedes S Class (Optoma) to a Honda Accord (Xiaomi). With Optoma you'd have US based customer service and warranty as well as VERY accurate colors.
> 
> Also, the Xiaomi was just released and the Optoma isn't even out yet so a real comparison isn't possible. We try to keep the threads here on topic to the specific hardware, FYI.


----------



## Nath91sl

Gae80uk said:


> Yes guys, would be great to keep focus on P1...looks like it's coming soon




Any fresh news on this projector?

Doesn’t seem to be much in the press/online blogs? Or from the company itself?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Gae80uk

Not really, info are minimal...they should strike now during LG UST launch with a much appealing cost/effective proposition..

Anyway, rumours around the web say end of Aug/Sept



Nath91sl said:


> Any fresh news on this projector?
> 
> Doesn’t seem to be much in the press/online blogs? Or from the company itself?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Tuan

https://www.optoma.com/us/cinemax-p1/


----------



## colinmatheny11

I want one! 

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk


----------



## colinmatheny11

Any hints on US availability?


Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk


----------



## imhotep6

I guess the release is imminent.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Johnny nz

weird, there was no mention of 3d on the optoma p1 link site above


----------



## wheelee

colinmatheny11 said:


> I want one!
> 
> Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk



it's still isn't out, yet it won an award already!?
Optoma Wins Two “Best of Show” Awards at InfoComm 2019
https://www.optoma.com/us/optoma-wins-two-best-of-show-awards-at-infocomm-2019/


this could be IT


----------



## Gae80uk

Ah finally...THE PJ IS COMING!

Now, no bad surprise about pricing please..


----------



## qoopy

*Optoma P1 quick summary:*

Good:
1. HLG support
2. Uses non-pico chipset.

Bad:
1. Only 2 HDMI ports.
2. Likely to use white segment to boost lumens output.
3. Upward price surprise.

Unknown:
1. Fixed or adjustable focus?
2. Optimised for 100"?


Any Optoma rep to clarify?


----------



## Gae80uk

Yeah I agree...in UK the European version 65UST is on pre order for £3.999..

About max. pj size it says 120" in the spec of U.S. site

Let's hope final price will be confirmed under $3k and not between 4 to 5k :/


----------



## Self-Righteous

Gae80uk said:


> Yeah I agree...in UK the European version 65UST is on pre order for £3.999..
> 
> About max. pj size it says 120" in the spec of U.S. site
> 
> Let's hope final price will be confirmed under $3k and not between 4 to 5k :/


Unfortunately with the pound weakening daily expect relative price increases. Blame it on Brexit (&Boris)


----------



## Nath91sl

Self-Righteous said:


> Unfortunately with the pound weakening daily expect relative price increases. Blame it on Brexit (&Boris)







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

qoopy said:


> *Optoma P1 quick summary:*
> 
> Good:
> 1. HLG support
> 2. Uses non-pico chipset.
> 
> Bad:
> 1. Only 2 HDMI ports.
> 2. Likely to use white segment to boost lumens output.
> 3. Upward price surprise.
> 
> Unknown:
> 1. Fixed or adjustable focus?
> 2. Optimised for 100"?
> 
> 
> Any Optoma rep to clarify?


I'm wondering about this to. Optomo is saying 3 2.2 HDMI ports (one ARC) on their website but no mention of 3D. Also, is there any kind of lens shift/control for the image placement? If not, how many inches above the top of the projector is the image displayed? Pictures online have been deceiving with some showing the bottom of the image almost directly above the projector while other pics look like it's about ten to twelve inches above the top of the projector. Optomos website is saying this thing is 5 1/2 inches tall. 

I've been looking at the elite screens starbright CLR screens. I can't believe the price difference between the 100 inch and 120 inch versions. Seems like these screens really do work well at blocking ambient light but any feedback would be appreciated. I wish optomo could make this thing a front speaker only and utilize HDMI arc for full surround but understand that would be difficult and most people wouldn't want to do this. My center speaker is way too big which will make placement a headache without buying a different theater cabinet. The pj and a CLR screen is already going to cost a pretty penny.

https://www.optoma.com/us/cinemax-p1/

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## HTCrazy2

The soundbar integration is a great idea. Quality surround sound from a small space is possible with the right tech. The big question is always contrast/black levels, but with excellent sharpness, color, processing a small hit in contrast would be ok given the laser source, portability, and super short throw for placement. 

I've had LED projectors (both high and lower end) for maybe 8 years, and I'm addicted to the advantages of digital light sources. One of those advantages is very minimal light spill and reflection because of the concentrated beams, and another is being able to scale the picture to about any size without distorting. I had both an LG75U and a Vivitek 9080. Both I believe were 800 lumens, and both were stretched to over 150". I stretched them beyond my 150" screen and eventually took down the screen and used almost the entire wall. 

Regarding the light spill I was projecting up to about two inches from a white colored ceiling and expected it to totally destroy the picture with its reflection (as would happen with the typical bulb). Not only didn't that happen but the ceiling was only faintly illuminated. Shocking but that was the case with both LED projectors. 

Plus they last forever (in projector years). I bought the 75U first around 8 years ago, and when I upgraded to the Vivitek, gave the LG to my son. He's still using it and even when i offered to buy him a new flatscreen for his dorm, he preferred the projector (which isn't even 1080p), still using it daily. Hasn't noticeably dimmed since day 1. The Vivitek had been going 10 since new before it died a couple weeks ago. Bought it reconditioned 4 yo.


----------



## colinmatheny11

diggumsmax said:


> I'm wondering about this to. Optomo is saying 3 2.2 HDMI ports (one ARC) on their website but no mention of 3D. Also, is there any kind of lens shift/control for the image placement? If not, how many inches above the top of the projector is the image displayed? Pictures online have been deceiving with some showing the bottom of the image almost directly above the projector while other pics look like it's about ten to twelve inches above the top of the projector. Optomos website is saying this thing is 5 1/2 inches tall.
> 
> I've been looking at the elite screens starbright CLR screens. I can't believe the price difference between the 100 inch and 120 inch versions. Seems like these screens really do work well at blocking ambient light but any feedback would be appreciated. I wish optomo could make this thing a front speaker only and utilize HDMI arc for full surround but understand that would be difficult and most people wouldn't want to do this. My center speaker is way too big which will make placement a headache without buying a different theater cabinet. The pj and a CLR screen is already going to cost a pretty penny.


I got my 120 inch UST from Silver Ticket for $1399 plus tax and free shipping. It looks great. 

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

colinmatheny11 said:


> I got my 120 inch UST from Silver Ticket for $1399 plus tax and free shipping. It looks great.
> 
> Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk


Thanks! I will have to look into Silver Ticket. Only real option I found where black diamond (not going to happen) and the elite. Their was some DIY stuff but it involved ordering from China with no kind of warranty or anything. 

EDIT: wow, same price for 100 and 120 but they were sold out of the 120 buying direct from silver ticket. It seems the current trend of ALR screens are these two sizes as I haven't been able to find 110. 

If you don't mind me asking, how far is the bottom of the image from either the top of your ust projector or the stand/cabinet that it is on? This may change my mind about what screen size to get. I currently have a 110 Stewart Firehawk with huge bezels so this would be the determining factor. It doesn't seem ust projectors have any sort of lens shift. You can tilt them but then have to deal with keystone correction. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## J Bone

I definitely would suggest ordering directly from the Chinese manufacturer or vendor. Much cheaper even with international shipping. XY Screens is a widely reputable manufacturer. I personally ordered mine from Snowhite Screens about a year ago. A 100" CLR screen was around $700.00 w/ 1 week shipping. I think they did increase their prices simply for the fact they saw what US vendors were selling there's for.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## colinmatheny11

I'd email Silver Ticket, it says out of stock but they had some last week when I ordered. 

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk


----------



## bix26

Wow! That’s awesome I’m a fan of Silver Ticket, I have one of their screens right now and it’s performed very well. The gain for this UST is lower than what other manufacturers claim, however I’m not so sure the other brands are being totally accurate with their claims.


----------



## Gae80uk

Dolby Vision/Atmos question: can Optoma P1 4K pj pass Netflix DV/DA signals with a proper AV receiver? Thanks!


----------



## qoopy

diggumsmax said:


> I'm wondering about this to. Optomo is saying 3 2.2 HDMI ports (one ARC) on their website but no mention of 3D. Also, is there any kind of lens shift/control for the image placement? If not, how many inches above the top of the projector is the image displayed? Pictures online have been deceiving with some showing the bottom of the image almost directly above the projector while other pics look like it's about ten to twelve inches above the top of the projector. Optomos website is saying this thing is 5 1/2 inches tall.
> 
> I've been looking at the elite screens starbright CLR screens. I can't believe the price difference between the 100 inch and 120 inch versions. Seems like these screens really do work well at blocking ambient light but any feedback would be appreciated. I wish optomo could make this thing a front speaker only and utilize HDMI arc for full surround but understand that would be difficult and most people wouldn't want to do this. My center speaker is way too big which will make placement a headache without buying a different theater cabinet. The pj and a CLR screen is already going to cost a pretty penny.
> 
> https://www.optoma.com/us/cinemax-p1/
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk



The screen of choice for day time use is probably the Fresnel screen made by DNP/FScreen. It has decent gain (>1) and good colour reproduction, but size could be limited to 100" for now. The popular lenticular type ALR screen has low gain (~.6), and not effective at all in blocking out light coming from the side.


Setting up the P1 should be quite similar to the Lune4K which is sourced from Coretronic.


----------



## diggumsmax

qoopy said:


> The screen of choice for day time use is probably the Fresnel screen made by DNP/FScreen. It has decent gain (>1) and good colour reproduction, but size could be limited to 100" for now. The popular lenticular type ALR screen has low gain (~.6), and not effective at all in blocking out light coming from the side.
> 
> 
> Setting up the P1 should be quite similar to the Lune4K which is sourced from Coretronic.


Wow! The Fresnel screen looks amazing when compared to the lenticular type ALR screens. I couldn't find much info but saw some video demos comparing the two. I wish it wasn't hard screen but it's clearly the winner. The gain on the lenticular ALR screens has had me a bit worried. .

I'm going to have to do some research as they appear to cost more from my brief web searches. I'm also waiting on some reviews of the P1 before I make the final decision

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## bix26

diggumsmax said:


> Wow! The Fresnel screen looks amazing when compared to the lenticular type ALR screens. I couldn't find much info but saw some video demos comparing the two. I wish it wasn't hard screen but it's clearly the winner. The gain on the lenticular ALR screens has had me a bit worried. .
> 
> I'm going to have to do some research as they appear to cost more from my brief web searches. I'm also waiting on some reviews of the P1 before I make the final decision
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk




They are much better from the demo’s I’ve seen. Besides the 100” size limitation you mentioned, Fresnel screens do have a few additional downsides that the lenticular type don’t. These being the off angle viewing is not very good and they usually have a clear protective layer that can cause glare.


----------



## Self-Righteous

Could any previous or current projector owners please comment on the comparative energy usage of projectors compared to some very large screen TVs which often peak at 500/700 watt at full brightness.


----------



## Troy LaMont

Gae80uk said:


> Dolby Vision/Atmos question: can Optoma P1 4K pj pass Netflix DV/DA signals with a proper AV receiver? Thanks!


I doubt that it will pass DV, DA is questionable and will be marginal if it does. It needs to support ARC Common format (and your receiver also) for it to work. eARC on the other hand with HDMI 2.1 will support those options but this PJ doesn't have HDMI 2.1.


----------



## Troy LaMont

Self-Righteous said:


> Could any previous or current projector owners please comment on the comparative energy usage of projectors compared to some very large screen TVs which often peak at 500/700 watt at full brightness.


On the manufacturers page:

410W max (bright mode), 360W typical (bright mode)
255W max (Eco mode), 225W typical (Eco mode)


----------



## Ricoflashback

***I apologize if this has been asked before but when is the actual release date of the Optoma P1 4K Laser Projector? This is like IBM who would announce products that took a year or more before ever hitting the streets. Lots of heavy breathing in this forum. Let's hope we're not all asking "Where's the beef?" when it finally ships and is reviewed by actual users.


----------



## Self-Righteous

Troy LaMont said:


> On the manufacturers page:
> 
> 410W max (bright mode), 360W typical (bright mode)
> 255W max (Eco mode), 225W typical (Eco mode)


Cheers


----------



## JackB

Ricoflashback said:


> ***I apologize if this has been asked before but when is the actual release date of the Optoma P1 4K Laser Projector? This is like IBM who would announce products that took a year or more before ever hitting the streets. Lots of heavy breathing in this forum. Let's hope we're not all asking "Where's the beef?" when it finally ships and is reviewed by actual users.


I was part of those product development teams at IBM back in the day. We did that because our customers asked us to announce so they could plan ahead.


----------



## Ricoflashback

JackB said:


> I was part of those product development teams at IBM back in the day. We did that because our customers asked us to announce so they could plan ahead.


***I worked for a competitor back in the day - Digital Equipment Corporation. We had solutions to problems that didn't exist.


----------



## Troy LaMont

Ricoflashback said:


> ***I apologize if this has been asked before but when is the actual release date of the Optoma P1 4K Laser Projector? This is like IBM who would announce products that took a year or more before ever hitting the streets. Lots of heavy breathing in this forum. Let's hope we're not all asking "Where's the beef?" when it finally ships and is reviewed by actual users.


Yes, it's been asked many times before. There is no set release date as of now, still pending the CES release of "sometime in the late 2nd quarter". We have a rep from Optoma on the forums but he hasn't said anything about the release date but did post a link to the web page for the PJ.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Troy LaMont said:


> Yes, it's been asked many times before. There is no set release date as of now, still pending the CES release of "sometime in the late 2nd quarter". We have a rep from Optoma on the forums but he hasn't said anything about the release date but did post a link to the web page for the PJ.


***Thanks. If the release date was supposed to be the 2nd Quarter (Calendar Year) - then it's obviously late. Maybe by Q4/CY.


----------



## tonymaxbirt

Any word yet on the 3D modes Available? Will it have the same sort of 3D support as the Optoma HD27HDR, such as 1080p 120HZ 3D Frame Sequential support?.


----------



## Frank714

tonymaxbirt said:


> Any word yet on the 3D modes Available? Will it have the same sort of 3D support as the Optoma HD27HDR, such as 1080p 120HZ 3D Frame Sequential support?.



I'm afraid it's not yet clear, whether the P1 has any 3D support at all. The latest Optoma announcement / registration sheet featured a "PureMotion" icon (i.e. it will have frame interpolation) but no hint of any 3D support. 


The HD27 did feature a 3D Sync Vesa port for use of 3D RF glasses, this port is not featured in the specifications of the P1, so it will be 3D via DLP Link only at best.


----------



## Floorit72

Optoma Canada responded to me via email (a copy of the email is posted in this thread). They did verify full 3d without frame interloping.


----------



## Tuan

Troy LaMont said:


> Yes, it's been asked many times before. There is no set release date as of now, still pending the CES release of "sometime in the late 2nd quarter". We have a rep from Optoma on the forums but he hasn't said anything about the release date but did post a link to the web page for the PJ.


Sooner than later.



tonymaxbirt said:


> Any word yet on the 3D modes Available? Will it have the same sort of 3D support as the Optoma HD27HDR, such as 1080p 120HZ 3D Frame Sequential support?.


Yes


----------



## Chapla1n

Looking forward to see reviews on this. Am replacing my trusty 1080p short throw BenQ with something "serious".


Question though, with the delay to launch, how many of you are now thinking, CES 2020 is just round the corner, better to wait for new product announcements then? (Yeah, I know there's always something shinier just round the corner..." 



I'm assuming that the available technology is relatively stable, i.e. no major upgrades to TI chipsets expected, or any dramatic drop in native 4k price points on the horizon.


----------



## JackB

Tuan said:


> Sooner than later.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes


Just got an email today from an Optoma Sales Manager that said the P1 was scheduled for release in September. The email was to 3rd party installers, dealers, etc. So I suspect that date is probably dependable.


----------



## colinmatheny11

JackB said:


> Just got an email today from an Optoma Sales Manager that said the P1 was scheduled for release in September. The email was to 3rd party installers, dealers, etc. So I suspect that date is probably dependable.


Did he happen to mention which part of September? 


Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk


----------



## JackB

colinmatheny11 said:


> Did he happen to mention which part of September?
> 
> 
> Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk


Here is the message as it appeared:

4K ULTRA SHORT THROW ALL IN ONE - CINEMAX P1 

COMING SOON

The much anticipated CinemaX P1, a 4K Ultra Short Throw Laser will officially be launched in September. Click here to view stunning content and product highlights.

https://www.optoma.com/us/cinemax-p1/

Xfer of message didn't come over with right formatting but all the words are there.


----------



## Gae80uk

Allright so! Projectorscreen replied saying it's now on pre-order for $2.999 and shipping from 10th Sept


----------



## Frank714

Tuan said:


> Sooner than later.



Pardon my asking, but is the Cinemax P1 UST front projector the only home theater model we can expect from Optoma for the rest of the year or are some long throw front projectors in the pipeline, too?


----------



## imhotep6

Gae80uk said:


> Allright so! Projectorscreen replied saying it's now on pre-order for $2.999 and shipping from 10th Sept




Order placed. No taxes for Florida


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Gae80uk

Good one mate! Sounds like a big deal What's the tax saving? 20%?


----------



## imhotep6

9% here.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Gae80uk

300 bucks, not bad! Might hold on till end of Sept to check first reviews but definitely it's on my priority list!


----------



## ursnirmalt

Gae80uk said:


> Allright so! Projectorscreen replied saying it's now on pre-order for $2.999 and shipping from 10th Sept


could you please send projector screen P1 link for placing order?


----------



## Johnny nz

google found it in 3 seconds 

https://www.projectorscreen.com/opt...nema-laser-projector-integrated-soundbar.html


----------



## Johnny nz

great news the price has not changed


----------



## diggumsmax

imhotep6 said:


> Order placed. No taxes for Florida
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


No taxes in Florida when ordering from them? I live in Florida and I'm going to wait for some reviews to come out but I know where I'm ordering it from if I do. That'll save me a couple hundred bucks. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## HTCrazy2

Johnny nz said:


> google found it in 3 seconds
> 
> https://www.projectorscreen.com/opt...nema-laser-projector-integrated-soundbar.html


Wow- impressive contrast 1,500,000 to 1!


----------



## Johnny nz

HTCrazy2 said:


> Wow- impressive contrast 1,500,000 to 1!


Sadly, fine print says up to 1,500,00 to 1


----------



## HTCrazy2

Johnny nz said:


> Sadly, fine print says up to 1,500,00 to 1


What fine print? It quotes 1,500,000 to 1 on the LG site AND projector screen.com. And ALL contrast would be "up to" whether written or not. Sounds like the dream machine for me (but don't they all before they're released). My only question is with the ultra short throw PJ's is are they limited in screen size not by brightness but distortion.


----------



## HTCrazy2

The fine print also states 30K to 40K on lamp life! I'll be dead before the lamp is at that rate.


----------



## Troy LaMont

HTCrazy2 said:


> Wow- impressive contrast 1,500,000 to 1!


I don't know if you're being sarcastic, but manufacturer contrast ratings are ALWAYS overrated. Take with a grain of salt. Real world would probably be less than 3,000:1 if we're lucky.


----------



## HTCrazy2

Troy LaMont said:


> I don't know if you're being sarcastic, but manufacturer contrast ratings are ALWAYS overrated. Take with a grain of salt. Real world would probably be less than 3,000:1 if we're lucky.


Even when they're being honest, the ratings are for theoretically ideal environments (and settings). Real world will always be less.


----------



## Knolly

I know this is a silly "what if," because the P1 isn't out yet, but if we were to pretend price wasn't a factor, is there any expectation that the P1 will outperform the Dell S718QL? I'm trying to wrap my head around what the best projector is for my budget/use case and it certainly seems like the S718QL is brighter than even the new LG HU85LA. The only downside I can see is input lag on the Dell, but otherwise it seems like it might be the better choice for a TV replacement in a location with a fair amount of ambient light.


----------



## Frank714

Was curious to find out whether any DLP front projector manufacturers will be attending IFA, Berlin early September or the subsequent CEDIA in Denver, Colorado.


Except for Acer at IFA, BenQ, Optoma and Vivitek will NOT be present at the above mentioned fairs.


----------



## Tuan

Knolly said:


> I know this is a silly "what if," because the P1 isn't out yet, but if we were to pretend price wasn't a factor, is there any expectation that the P1 will outperform the Dell S718QL? I'm trying to wrap my head around what the best projector is for my budget/use case and it certainly seems like the S718QL is brighter than even the new LG HU85LA. The only downside I can see is input lag on the Dell, but otherwise it seems like it might be the better choice for a TV replacement in a location with a fair amount of ambient light.


The Dell is a first generation UST design, the P1 is a second generation with better glass optics.


----------



## colinmatheny11

Tuan said:


> The Dell is a first generation UST design, the P1 is a second generation with better glass optics.


I was reading a review on Projector Review about the new LG HU85LA and it said the upcoming Optoma P1 uses a dual laser design like the LG...

Is the P1 single or dual laser? If it's dual, I'm assuming no color wheel? 

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk


----------



## DunMunro

Troy LaMont said:


> I don't know if you're being sarcastic, but manufacturer contrast ratings are ALWAYS overrated. Take with a grain of salt. Real world would probably be less than 3,000:1 if we're lucky.


A well implemented laser dimming algorithm can show very high on/off CRs.


----------



## Troy LaMont

Knolly said:


> I know this is a silly "what if," because the P1 isn't out yet, but if we were to pretend price wasn't a factor, is there any expectation that the P1 will outperform the Dell S718QL? I'm trying to wrap my head around what the best projector is for my budget/use case and it certainly seems like the S718QL is brighter than even the new LG HU85LA. The only downside I can see is input lag on the Dell, but otherwise it seems like it might be the better choice for a TV replacement in a location with a fair amount of ambient light.


What Tuan said, plus if an authentic home theater experience is what you're after then you'll get better contrast and colors (and color calibration) with the Optoma.


----------



## Troy LaMont

colinmatheny11 said:


> I was reading a review on Projector Review about the new LG HU85LA and it said the upcoming Optoma P1 uses a dual laser design like the LG...
> 
> Is the P1 single or dual laser? If it's dual, I'm assuming no color wheel?
> 
> Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk


P1 is single laser WITH color wheel but it's one of the only UST projectors that I have heard of that use dynamic laser dimming, so the contrast measurements (if done right) should be phenomenal. Colors would be better than pretty much all of the Chinese manufacturers and Optoma has stated 90% of DCI P3 coverage and you'll have better CMS tools to adjust the color to your liking.

Definitely in a "best-bang-for-your-buck" category for UST projectors.


----------



## Troy LaMont

DunMunro said:


> A well implemented laser dimming algorithm can show very high on/off CRs.


I concur (Optoma Z65 anyone?), but not in the millions, tens of thousands maybe. We'll see.


----------



## ered

Does anyone know if Optoma P1 speakers can function as independent center speaker, since I will use AV receiver to drive all the other surround speakers. Can I couple directly to the P1 speakers connecting AV receiver output terminals?


----------



## krazykozak

That would be amazing if we could use this as a center speaker - but i have a feeling all of the channels need to be managed together from a receiver that separates all the channels.

Does anyone know the distance the projector needs to be to project 120 inches? i saw its about 10 inches for 100 inches.


----------



## bk 1937

Any idea about the release date? We are in Q3 already.


----------



## Frank714

ered said:


> Does anyone know if Optoma P1 speakers can function as independent center speaker, since I will use AV receiver to drive all the other surround speakers. Can I couple directly to the P1 speakers connecting AV receiver output terminals?


 
While the idea is intriguing and would be somewhat innovative and rather clever (Optoma, you're listening?) the previously released specifications do not suggest such a possibility because the necessary input jacks are missíng. 


It's a "Dolby Digital 2.0 soundbar", so it appears to be limited to stereo.


----------



## Rimo

ered said:


> Does anyone know if Optoma P1 speakers can function as independent center speaker, since I will use AV receiver to drive all the other surround speakers. Can I couple directly to the P1 speakers connecting AV receiver output terminals?


I was browsing videos about the Optoma P1 on youtube and in some video somewhere, the guy doing the promotion was asked this exact question, and he answered no.


----------



## ered

Rimo said:


> I was browsing videos about the Optoma P1 on youtube and in some video somewhere, the guy doing the promotion was asked this exact question, and he answered no.


Thanks for all your replies; great idea yet to be implemented, maybe next generation.


----------



## g4s

The glass optics are an important selling point for me. That and how durable and reliable Optoma projectors have been for me. Even outdoors camping, humidity, bugs, setting up on gravel bars and getting knocked around in general.


----------



## ProjectionHead

bk 1937 said:


> Any idea about the release date? We are in Q3 already.


We expect it to start shipping on/around 9/15/19 per our rep @ Optoma.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Knolly said:


> I know this is a silly "what if," because the P1 isn't out yet, but if we were to pretend price wasn't a factor, is there any expectation that the P1 will outperform the Dell S718QL? I'm trying to wrap my head around what the best projector is for my budget/use case and it certainly seems like the S718QL is brighter than even the new LG HU85LA. The only downside I can see is input lag on the Dell, but otherwise it seems like it might be the better choice for a TV replacement in a location with a fair amount of ambient light.


The Dell is really a conference room projector vs the P1 which is intended for home cinema. If you plan on watching motion video content and want better colors and contrast, the P1 is the way to go for sure.

If you pair the P1 with a UST ALR screen you will not need the additional brightness of the Dell (which comes with lower contrast as a result) and will have a much better image than the Dell with a traditional white surface, especially in a well-lit environment.


----------



## HTCrazy2

ProjectionHead said:


> We expect it to start shipping on/around 9/15/19 per our rep @ Optoma.


Yahssssss!!! :grin::grin::grin::grin::grin:
Can't wait - even my wife's bought off on this! These UST's seem to have high WAF. Females (rightly) hate construction, cables, wires, clutter etc. 

If the sound is high enough quality (which I'm guessing it could be 90% of the time having owned Nuforce products before) and the smart TV features are good enough - the entire setup could be limited to the projector, power chord and a shelf. And this could finally pose serious competition to a large number of flat screen installations. Much better scale, portability, esthetics, internal audio and placement options. 

Hey Optoma - make sure this works as advertised and isn't priced over $3K. The world could be your oyster!


----------



## Knolly

Thanks for the comments guys, guess I'll be getting an Optoma! I can't wait for the Elite Screens floor rising UST screen in November, it should pair perfectly with this projector.

Regarding the center channel, I was wondering that too. I think it's a great concept but the only device I know of that has caught on to it is the LG OLED R.


----------



## TTBear

Knolly said:


> Thanks for the comments guys, guess I'll be getting an Optoma! I can't wait for the Elite Screens floor rising UST screen in November, it should pair perfectly with this projector.
> 
> Regarding the center channel, I was wondering that too. I think it's a great concept but the only device I know of that has caught on to it is the LG OLED R.


This is likely the route that I will take, too. I would really love to see a comparison test between the P1 and the HU85LA prior to making a final decision, but if the P1 really is going to be $3000, the LG would have to be VASTLY superior, in many aspects, to sway my decision that way. 

Knolly, did you get my PM regarding the Vividstorm screen? Might be some food for thought!


----------



## Knolly

TTBear said:


> This is likely the route that I will take, too. I would really love to see a comparison test between the P1 and the HU85LA prior to making a final decision, but if the P1 really is going to be $3000, the LG would have to be VASTLY superior, in many aspects, to sway my decision that way.
> 
> Knolly, did you get my PM regarding the Vividstorm screen? Might be some food for thought!


Agreed on the Optoma vs LG comparison. I don't mind spending money but I want to feel that I'm getting a good value, and I suspect the Optoma is going to be more than 50% as good as the LG.

As for the Vividstorm, I didn't get a PM from you but I remembered your post. I'm glad you reminded me though since I gave it another look and realized I wasn't giving it a fair shake. I saw a video on the Amazon listing that really didn't impress me at all, but upon further review, it was an image of their standard screen, not the ALR UST screen. 

Spending some time on their listing I'm pretty confident it's a rebrand of this screen I found on Aliexpress, but I think that it could be worth buying Vividstorm for ease of being able to buy it on Amazon.

If I end up giving it a shot I'll also order a sample of EliteScreens Starbright CLR, it could be interesting to project an image on both at the same time and see if there's any notable difference. This is such a niche market at the moment but I feel like it shouldn't be... A easily portable/shipped 100ish inch TV that is invisible when turned off? Sign me up.


----------



## TTBear

Knolly said:


> Agreed on the Optoma vs LG comparison. I don't mind spending money but I want to feel that I'm getting a good value, and I suspect the Optoma is going to be more than 50% as good as the LG.
> 
> As for the Vividstorm, I didn't get a PM from you but I remembered your post. I'm glad you reminded me though since I gave it another look and realized I wasn't giving it a fair shake. I saw a video on the Amazon listing that really didn't impress me at all, but upon further review, it was an image of their standard screen, not the ALR UST screen.
> 
> Spending some time on their listing I'm pretty confident it's a rebrand of this screen I found on Aliexpress, but I think that it could be worth buying Vividstorm for ease of being able to buy it on Amazon.
> 
> If I end up giving it a shot I'll also order a sample of EliteScreens Starbright CLR, it could be interesting to project an image on both at the same time and see if there's any notable difference. This is such a niche market at the moment but I feel like it shouldn't be... A easily portable/shipped 100ish inch TV that is invisible when turned off? Sign me up.


Ugh. One needs 15 posts in order to send private messages. I will try again this evening, Knolly.


----------



## Frank714

HTCrazy2 said:


> These UST's seem to have high WAF. Females (rightly) hate construction, cables, wires, clutter etc.



Agreed. This is probably the excuse for the integrated speaker system (Plug & Play) although the extra option to drive the speakers as a double center with two small woofers would have been great.


----------



## Luminated67

DunMunro said:


> A well implemented laser dimming algorithm can show very high on/off CRs.


On/OFF contrast isn't real world watching, even with a space scene you will have a few pixels lite and in that situation really few projector get remotely close to dynamic contrast.


----------



## HTCrazy2

Frank714 said:


> Agreed. This is probably the excuse for the integrated speaker system (Plug & Play) although the extra option to drive the speakers as a double center with two small woofers would have been great.


Yes subwoofer options would be nice. But knowing NuForce I’d expect the sound to be a major step up from any current projector internal speakers. Great for portable situations and I’m sure good enough that a majority of owners won’t bother investing in an external sound system at all. For the rest of us an optical out to our HT sound systems Is all we’ll need. I think the big market for this will be secondary large screen setups in the home.


----------



## ProjectionHead

HTCrazy2 said:


> Yahssssss!!! :grin::grin::grin::grin::grin:
> Can't wait - even my wife's bought off on this! These UST's seem to have high WAF. Females (rightly) hate construction, cables, wires, clutter etc.
> 
> If the sound is high enough quality (which I'm guessing it could be 90% of the time having owned Nuforce products before) and the smart TV features are good enough - the entire setup could be limited to the projector, power chord and a shelf. And this could finally pose serious competition to a large number of flat screen installations. Much better scale, portability, esthetics, internal audio and placement options.
> 
> Hey Optoma - make sure this works as advertised and isn't priced over $3K. The world could be your oyster!


Optoma will be at our office in less than 10 minutes with a P1 for evaluation. One of my colleagues is an audiophile with a tremendous ear; I'll share our feedback on both the video and audio shortly.


----------



## HTCrazy2

ProjectionHead said:


> Optoma will be at our office in less than 10 minutes with a P1 for evaluation. One of my colleagues is an audiophile with a tremendous ear; I'll share our feedback on both the video and audio shortly.


Great!!! Please also verify MSRP and shipping dates if possible. Looking forward to your report!


----------



## solal-

Can you ask them the release date and price in europe ?


----------



## solal-

And the input lag ?

Thank you


----------



## imhotep6

ProjectionHead said:


> Optoma will be at our office in less than 10 minutes with a P1 for evaluation. One of my colleagues is an audiophile with a tremendous ear; I'll share our feedback on both the video and audio shortly.




Pictures of it playing a movie.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## HTCrazy2

Did you get any sense of how big the picture can get before it starts distorting?


----------



## ProjectionHead

HTCrazy2 said:


> Great!!! Please also verify MSRP and shipping dates if possible. Looking forward to your report!


$2,999 and scheduled to ship "mid September"


----------



## ProjectionHead

We just had a little time to play around with the P1 and were really impressed. We were able to test it out with a couple different screen surfaces and different lighting conditions.

It was clear that you absolutely got the best results with a UST ALR screen (SI Short Throw is what we used) regardless of the level of ambient light in the room.

On our Grandview UHD130 surface (4k 1.3 gain) it looked really good with


----------



## ProjectionHead

htcrazy2 said:


> did you get any sense of how big the picture can get before it starts distorting?


120"


----------



## ProjectionHead

HTCrazy2 said:


> Yes subwoofer options would be nice. But knowing NuForce I’d expect the sound to be a major step up from any current projector internal speakers. Great for portable situations and I’m sure good enough that a majority of owners won’t bother investing in an external sound system at all. For the rest of us an optical out to our HT sound systems Is all we’ll need. I think the big market for this will be secondary large screen setups in the home.


It was by far the best sounding integrated projector speaker I have ever heard, but it is intended to be used as a primary speaker where traditionally a user would never really use the onboard speaker for media consumption.


----------



## imhotep6

Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## HTCrazy2

ProjectionHead said:


> 120"


I can live with that.


----------



## HTCrazy2

ProjectionHead said:


> It was by far the best sounding integrated projector speaker I have ever heard, but it is intended to be used as a primary speaker where traditionally a user would never really use the onboard speaker for media consumption.


So the integrated speakers didn't have surround sound effects like many sound bar/projectors?


----------



## HTCrazy2

ProjectionHead said:


> The audio was surprisingly impressive as well. It did lack any hookup for an external subwoofer though as it only had a 3.5mm audio out and an optical out. There may be plans for an optional wireless subwoofer or another way to get a sub hooked up to this but we were unable to get it to work.


You mentioned that it had an optical out, and there are subwoofers would optical inputs. Since you wouldn't be using the optical out otherwise while using the internal sound, it should work with the right sub. Are you saying you tried this and it wasn't working?


----------



## ProjectionHead

HTCrazy2 said:


> So the integrated speakers didn't have surround sound effects like many sound bar/projectors?


You certainly could hear a stereo effect however the projector/speaker is much smaller than the screen so it wasn't as immersive as having stereo speakers on both sides of the display.


----------



## ProjectionHead

HTCrazy2 said:


> You mentioned that it had an optical out, and there are subwoofers would optical inputs. Since you wouldn't be using the optical out otherwise while using the internal sound, it should work with the right sub. Are you saying you tried this and it wasn't working?


Nope; we did not have a sub here that would accept an optical input. I will try to locate one for our next hands-on with the P1 to confirm if it will work or not.


----------



## HTCrazy2

This $3000.00 question is of course...how good is the contrast and black levels? According to the advertising and rated contrast specs, they're supposed to be a major strength of the P1. Also how good is the color accuracy out of the box? Motion artifacts? Thanks!


----------



## ProjectionHead

HTCrazy2 said:


> This $3000.00 question is of course...how good is the contrast and black levels? According to the advertising and rated contrast specs, they're supposed to be a major strength of the P1. Also how good is the color accuracy out of the box? Motion artifacts? Thanks!


We didn't have any tools available for testing for this visit so we can only tell you what our impressions where. On the traditional white, 4K surface from Grandview, we felt that the UHZ65 had more robust color and better contrast. That surface does nothign to enhance the contrast of the image however.

When we introduced the ST surface from SI to the P1, the enhancement to contrast was noticeable and eclipsed that of what we saw with the UHZ65 on the regular-throw surface.

We did not have the opportunity to do a side by side with the UHZ65 on a white surface and the P1 on the ST surface, but will be doing so on our next visit with a split video signal so that we can be more objective in measuring the difference between the two.

We did not notice any motion artifacts via the Deadpool or Planet Earth UHD discs.


----------



## HTCrazy2

ProjectionHead said:


> We didn't have any tools available for testing for this visit so we can only tell you what our impressions where. On the traditional white, 4K surface from Grandview, we felt that the UHZ65 had more robust color and better contrast. That surface does nothign to enhance the contrast of the image however.


That's disappointing especially for the contrast though the UHZ65 costs another $1K and has contrast rating of 2 mil to 1. And it's odd that the color's aren't robust on a laser projector. But hopefully the shipping models will be better dialed in. 

Did they mention any updates on shipping or is it still on for early September? And MSRP still $3K? 
Thanks for the info!


----------



## kthejoker20

INPUT LAG??????

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## ProjectionHead

HTCrazy2 said:


> That's disappointing especially for the contrast though the UHZ65 costs another $1K and has contrast rating of 2 mil to 1. And it's odd that the color's aren't robust on a laser projector. But hopefully the shipping models will be better dialed in.
> 
> Did they mention any updates on shipping or is it still on for early September? And MSRP still $3K?
> Thanks for the info!


Both projectors are laser; the P1 didn't appear to be as robust as the UHZ65 on a white surface, but when the P1 was paired with the UST surface it looked better. Once we do the side by side, I'll have better pics to share showing the comparison.

Still Mid-September for shipping and $2,999 price tag.


----------



## ProjectionHead

kthejoker20 said:


> INPUT LAG??????
> 
> Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


not published yet


----------



## Gae80uk

So the big news here is price confirmed for $3k and strong audio performance...now what would really love you guys to focus is picture quality: any professional video/pics showing how the pj is handling day/night in terms of brightness, the colour palette (oversaturated colours? Vava is suffering a lot for that) and contrast/black levels.

The Deadpool demo quality is too poor to get any idea I am afraid.

Also guys, are you gonna create a deal bundle with a ALR 100-120" screen? That would be a nice one for me to place my order with a full package solution 

G.


----------



## Gae80uk

Hey ProjectionHead! Since you got the P1 for testing, I have wrapped up below some hot topics that any UST pj buyer would love to check:

- full unpacking, features and preview/review with 

- testing 2-3 movies with 4K video content (Netflix, Amazon Prime/Firestick, Apple Tv) 

- 4k HDR gaming test with PS4 Pro or Xbox X checking input lag and colour performances

- test with some SD/1080p content

- sound test with/without a soundbar/home theatre

- day light/lights on vs night performance in terms of contrast and blacks

- screen: white wall vs a pro ALR 120" screen (SI, Elite, XY). Any bundle P1 + screen special offer?

It would be great if you guys could test all the above points to help us out in the consideration/purchasing cycle in the next few days 

G.


----------



## Frank714

3D playback capability via DLP Link?


----------



## gollygosh

As above does it have 3d playback capability and can the buit in speakers be used as a center channel in full AV setup?


----------



## ProjectionHead

Gae80uk said:


> Hey ProjectionHead! Since you got the P1 for testing, I have wrapped up below some hot topics that any UST pj buyer would love to check:
> 
> - full unpacking, features and preview/review with
> 
> - testing 2-3 movies with 4K video content (Netflix, Amazon Prime/Firestick, Apple Tv)
> 
> - 4k HDR gaming test with PS4 Pro or Xbox X checking input lag and colour performances
> 
> - test with some SD/1080p content
> 
> - sound test with/without a soundbar/home theatre
> 
> - day light/lights on vs night performance in terms of contrast and blacks
> 
> - screen: white wall vs a pro ALR 120" screen (SI, Elite, XY). Any bundle P1 + screen special offer?
> 
> It would be great if you guys could test all the above points to help us out in the consideration/purchasing cycle in the next few days
> 
> G.


I only had the P1 for a couple of hours. It was also not a final release version. Once we get our "real" demo unit for keeps, we plan on doing a lot more content, including many of the ideas you presented.

Should we create a new "First Look" thread for the P1 or post in here?

Also, anyone in Northern NJ interested in checking it out in person? PM me and I will let you know when it's here.


----------



## ProjectionHead

gollygosh said:


> As above does it have 3d playback capability and can the buit in speakers be used as a center channel in full AV setup?


There was no mention of 3D support on this unit, but that could change.
It doesn't appear that the built in speakers could be used as a center channel, but I did make that recommendation to them many months ago when I first got to see it at Infocomm.
I also suggested that they make another unit that doesn't include any integrated audio and instead has beefed up visual specs.
While the integrated speakers are extremely nice for what it is, I still plan on using my AVR and surround sound when I setup the P1 in my home.


----------



## Seihaku

ProjectionHead said:


> There was no mention of 3D support on this unit, but that could change.
> It doesn't appear that the built in speakers could be used as a center channel, but I did make that recommendation to them many months ago when I first got to see it at Infocomm.
> I also suggested that they make another unit that doesn't include any integrated audio and instead has beefed up visual specs.
> While the integrated speakers are extremely nice for what it is, I still plan on using my AVR and surround sound when I setup the P1 in my home.


I hope they take heed with the "Use it as a Center Channel" aspect. That would be phenomenally useful for a good number of the people that are likely to buy these, me included.


----------



## HTCrazy2

ProjectionHead said:


> There was no mention of 3D support on this unit, but that could change.
> It doesn't appear that the built in speakers could be used as a center channel, but I did make that recommendation to them many months ago when I first got to see it at Infocomm.
> I also suggested that they make another unit that doesn't include any integrated audio and instead has beefed up visual specs.
> While the integrated speakers are extremely nice for what it is, I still plan on using my AVR and surround sound when I setup the P1 in my home.


Which video specs would you recommend beefing up? I'm sure the internal speakers are there to compete directly with larger flat screen TV's. And it's an advantage for ad hock portable use, or smaller rooms. Except for the very best sound bar / subwoofer combos, sound bars in general aren't able to compete with a good HT sound system. 

But being ultra short throw, the enhanced sound CAN come in handy for certain uses. Also I don't understand the advantage of using the speakers for a center channel. Matching the front three speakers is critical for good sound (a little more leeway with surrounds). 

A good subwoofer out would be helpful though the optical or even analog out could work. I'm sure you'd be amazed at the improvement overall with a bit of sub support.


----------



## TTBear

Seihaku said:


> I hope they take heed with the "Use it as a Center Channel" aspect. That would be phenomenally useful for a good number of the people that are likely to buy these, me included.


I could not agree more! This feature would be beyond fantastic.


----------



## Frank714

Frankly, I find the absence of 3D support absurd.


Just came across the latest review of Optoma's entry front projector model HD243X and even that cheap 1080p projector has a 3D Sync Output for 3D-RF glasses (while all 4K models at best only support DLP Link)


Apparently, the guys at Optoma who make the decisions think that the user of a 4K projector will exclusively use it for 4K program content and vice versa that a 3D lover will eclusively use a 1080p projector and nothing else...  


Home theater consumer market research is obviously and sadly not Optoma's strong suit, IIRC the P1 had been showcased in February at the ISE, first - and nobody told Optoma what a great idea it would be if there were an option to use the speakers as a center channel in a typical home theater surround sound setup?


----------



## ProjectionHead

Frank714 said:


> Frankly, I find the absence of 3D support absurd.
> 
> 
> Just came across the latest review of Optoma's entry front projector model HD243X and even that cheap 1080p projector has a 3D Sync Output for 3D-RF glasses (while all 4K models at best only support DLP Link)
> 
> 
> Apparently, the guys at Optoma who make the decisions think that the user of a 4K projector will exclusively use it for 4K program content and vice versa that a 3D lover will eclusively use a 1080p projector and nothing else...
> 
> 
> Home theater consumer market research is obviously and sadly not Optoma's strong suit, IIRC the P1 had been showcased in February at the ISE, first - and nobody told Optoma what a great idea it would be if there were an option to use the speakers as a center channel in a typical home theater surround sound setup?


Perhaps they did suggest that to Optoma but in order to be able to hit their target street price of $2,999 that feature of using the speaker as a center channel (along with 3d) couldn't make the cut.

Perhaps they are taking these suggestions into consideration for the "next" version of this unit which may be in a higher price bracket.


----------



## Gae80uk

Thank ProjectionHead, looking forward to getting new juice content from you guys! 

September is coming!

G.


----------



## Brajesh

No 3D would mean no sale with me. Hopefully, it's still there as confirmed by Tuan earlier. I'm in Northern NJ would love to check PJ out when you get it back (PM'd you).


----------



## ProjectionHead

Brajesh said:


> No 3D would mean no sale with me. Hopefully, it's still there as confirmed by Tuan earlier. I'm in Northern NJ would love to check PJ out when you get it back (PM'd you).


I will most certainly let you know once we have it installed and ready for visitors to check it out!


----------



## NotShorty

No 3D = no buy from me either. No hard feelings, just doesn't meet my criteria. 

Surely that couldn't be more than software support, maybe additional licensing which ought to be cheap these days.

Studios not making more 3D titles is understandable, but display devices not supporting 3D is just maddening. It's not like the titles I purchased a few years ago just vanished...

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


----------



## Tyler Duncan

After stalking this forum for a few months now and seeing the recent real life footage of the P1 in action, I just went ahead and pre-ordered the P1 from ProjectorScreen. I had also ordered the 120" XY ALR PET screen and that arrived already, but I'm waiting to install it closer to the projector arrival. I'll try to post a video once I have everything in, up, and running.


----------



## bk 1937

Tyler Duncan said:


> After stalking this forum for a few months now and seeing the recent real life footage of the P1 in action, I just went ahead and pre-ordered the P1 from ProjectorScreen. I had also ordered the 120" XY ALR PET screen and that arrived already, but I'm waiting to install it closer to the projector arrival. I'll try to post a video once I have everything in, up, and running.



Are they taking pre-orders on ProjectorScreen website? How did you do that? Also, how much was it for 120" PET from XY ?


----------



## bix26

@Tuan (a rep from Optoma) confirmed 3D early on in this thread.


----------



## Tyler Duncan

bk 1937 said:


> Are they taking pre-orders on ProjectorScreen website? How did you do that? Also, how much was it for 120" PET from XY ?


Yeah, ProjectorScreen had it for pre-order as someone mentioned and I also took advantage of that because of the no Tax for Florida. I paid $1200 for my screen but haven't installed it to see quality yet. Somehow escaped taxes and duties as well.


----------



## Self-Righteous

I like that Optoma are offering a three year warranty with this. LG only one year for a £6000 PJ.


----------



## Gae80uk

@tyler great stuff! Looking forward to your review mate  @PTOjectionHead any special deal P1 + ALR screen that can beat the XY one?


----------



## diggumsmax

Pretty close on pulling the trigger on this and pre-ordering from projectorscreen. I usually wait for reviews but for some reason I think this is going to be sell very well and I don't want to have to wait until late October to November to get my hands on it. 

As many others have said, I do wish you could use this thing as a center speaker. With that said, I don't think it would be easy to implement without a speaker input. I imagine trying to remove the center speaker from the output signal to your receiver just wouldn't work well and the audio would be hard to sync up with the rest of speakers. 

Questions that I still have

- Input lag

- How many inches above the top of the projector is the image displayed? I don't want to have to get a different av cabinet if my current one is to high. Some promotional pics have the image an inch or two away from the top of the projector while other images look like it's almost 1 ft above the top of the projector.

- Optomas website says it has HDMI arc on port one. Can anyone confirm? I've only heard optical output being mentioned in this thread.

I do hope the integrated apps work well, especially at this price point. If they do, my Xbox one X will be the only thing hooked up to it. Alexa and Google Assistant are nice but not something I need. I do wish they had another option without the sound bar and voice assistants, preferably at a cheaper price but I know they are marketing this as an all-in-one solution. It does seem like you have to get a UST ALR screen to get the most out of this projector and that's going to add quite a bit. Even the cheaper Chinese models cost around $800. Brands like SI are out of my price range. If I do purchase it, I'm going to see how it looks on my Stewart Firehawk before dropping the money on a screen. My theater room does not have complete light control so I probably will need a new ALR screen in the long run. Not having to worry about bulb replacements is also very important.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

Self-Righteous said:


> I like that Optoma are offering a three year warranty with this. LG only one year for a £6000 PJ.


I was really looking forward to an LG/Optoma comparison. I always figured the LG would be a bit more because it has two lasers but I never imagined it would be at the price point that it is. The fact that you only get a one year warranty on something that cost that much is ridiculous. You can get last year's LG for pretty cheap now although the throw distance is much further than these newer models. 

Three year warranty with Optoma gives me piece of mind. With these being a somewhat newer category of projectors I do wonder about how they will hold up after 2 or 3 years. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## solal-

I buy an optoma projector 10years ago it had a problem after one year of over heating I tried changing the lamp but optoma service was so nad that he never fpund the problem and it as the same for all the people having this model at this time (it was long time ago and optoma was not has big as today so i hope it changed). After that i bought a sony and have already change 5 times the lamps (use it more than 10000 hours) and he work like new. So even if warranty is longer I would trust more japanese or corean brand. By the way which nztionality is optoma ? I'm not sure.


----------



## Knolly

I've been doing some searching around and all I can seem to find is the maximum screen size, does anyone know the minimum screen size for this projector?


----------



## Brajesh

bix26 said:


> @Tuan (a rep from Optoma) confirmed 3D early on in this thread.


Yep, here it is.


----------



## diggumsmax

Knolly said:


> I've been doing some searching around and all I can seem to find is the maximum screen size, does anyone know the minimum screen size for this projector?


According to the Optoma, it is 85 - 120. 
https://www.optoma.com/us/cinemax-p1/

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## imhotep6

ProjectionHead said:


> We just had a little time to play around with the P1 and were really impressed. We were able to test it out with a couple different screen surfaces and different lighting conditions.
> 
> 
> 
> It was clear that you absolutely got the best results with a UST ALR screen (SI Short Throw is what we used) regardless of the level of ambient light in the room.
> 
> 
> 
> On our Grandview UHD130 surface (4k 1.3 gain) it looked really good with


----------



## maverick87r

Tyler Duncan said:


> Yeah, ProjectorScreen had it for pre-order as someone mentioned and I also took advantage of that because of the no Tax for Florida. I paid $1200 for my screen but haven't installed it to see quality yet. Somehow escaped taxes and duties as well.




What made you choose xy over like an elite alr. I’m trying to figure out which one I want for my new room.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Knolly

diggumsmax said:


> According to the Optoma, it is 85 - 120.
> https://www.optoma.com/us/cinemax-p1/
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Somehow missed that, thanks!


----------



## ProjectionHead

maverick87r said:


> What made you choose xy over like an elite alr. I’m trying to figure out which one I want for my new room.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Elite regular ALR will not work with this projector; you will need the Elite "CLR"" (ceiling light rejecting):
https://www.projectorscreen.com/store/ProductCompare.aspx?itemids=138617,131259

HUGE price increase to go from 100" to 120" with these types of screens.

I saw the XY at a demo; I wasn't impressed with it, especially when compared to the SI options but it is at a very low price point it could be a "good value" option.


----------



## bk 1937

maverick87r said:


> What made you choose xy over like an elite alr. I’m trying to figure out which one I want for my new room.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Probably the price, XY is half the price of ELite ALR screens


----------



## ProjectionHead

imhotep6 said:


> Was there any fan noise?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Not that we picked up on. Since the projector is pretty far away from the viewing distance fan noise would be less audible than with a unit over your head. We will take a closer listen next time to see how far away it is noticeable.


----------



## ProjectionHead

diggumsmax said:


> Pretty close on pulling the trigger on this and pre-ordering from projectorscreen. I usually wait for reviews but for some reason I think this is going to be sell very well and I don't want to have to wait until late October to November to get my hands on it.
> 
> 
> - How many inches above the top of the projector is the image displayed? I don't want to have to get a different av cabinet if my current one is to high. Some promotional pics have the image an inch or two away from the top of the projector while other images look like it's almost 1 ft above the top of the projector.
> 
> .....
> If I do purchase it, I'm going to see how it looks on my Stewart Firehawk before dropping the money on a screen.


I believe is is .2x the image width of the screen (ie a 100" diagonal screen with a width of 87.2", it would need to be 17.44" below the bottom of the viewable surface.

I will try to get confirmation when back at the office on Monday morning.

... and yes, I totally expect the first wave to sell out quickly.

It won't work with your Firehawk due to how the Firehawk rejects ambient light. Firehawk's angular reflective nature only works with regular throw projectors that are about 1.5x the image width away from the screen, which is too bad because the Firehawk is an awesome standard throw ALR screen.

If you want ALR, you will need a specific UST ALR screen.


----------



## ProjectionHead

bk 1937 said:


> Are they taking pre-orders on ProjectorScreen website? How did you do that? Also, how much was it for 120" PET from XY ?


Yes they are taking preorders. Check out the Elite CLR as opposed to the XY if you want to stay in that price range. Here are some links to check out some of the UST ALR options available:

https://www.projectorscreen.com/store/ProductCompare.aspx?itemids=138617,131259

If you want the best (and subsequently the most expensive), SI is the way to go:

https://www.projectorscreen.com/screen-innovations?Attribs=6119&


----------



## diggumsmax

maverick87r said:


> What made you choose xy over like an elite alr. I’m trying to figure out which one I want for my new room.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


From my research it really seems like it really depends on if you want 100 or 120 inches. From what I can find, the elite screens dramatically go up if you want 120. For some reason, and I have no idea why, the silverticket UST alr screens are the same price for either size. The 120 is sold out on their website. I'm also looking into XY as well. 

I wish fresnel screens weren't so expensive, hard to ship and had a little better viewing angle. I had exchanged emails with XY re-sellers and due to Fresnel being hard screens, they are extremely heavy and difficult to ship and none of them would do it. I was also hesitant to buy directly from China as well. Fresnel screens appear to handle ambient light much better as they block light from the sides as well. Other posters on here have also said there is a some glare when using the screens. A quick YouTube search will result in one or two videos. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

ProjectionHead said:


> I believe is is .2x the image width of the screen (ie a 100" diagonal screen with a width of 87.2", it would need to be 17.44" below the bottom of the viewable surface.
> 
> 
> 
> I will try to get confirmation when back at the office on Monday morning.
> 
> 
> 
> ... and yes, I totally expect the first wave to sell out quickly.
> 
> 
> 
> It won't work with your Firehawk due to how the Firehawk rejects ambient light. Firehawk's angular reflective nature only works with regular throw projectors that are about 1.5x the image width away from the screen, which is too bad because the Firehawk is an awesome standard throw ALR screen.
> 
> 
> 
> If you want ALR, you will need a specific UST ALR screen.


Thanks! Just placed my order. Waiting to get my hands on it before I buy a screen though. Is that 17.44 inches from the top of the projector or the bottom? That 5 inches could make a difference. If it's the top I doubt I can do 120 without buying a new av cabinet. My Firehawk is an older model with no form of ALR. Just a grey screen with roughly a 1.1 gain. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Mikkle

diggumsmax said:


> Thanks! Just placed my order. Waiting to get my hands on it before I buy a screen though. Is that 17.44 inches from the top of the projector or the bottom? That 5 inches could make a difference. If it's the top I doubt I can do 120 without buying a new av cabinet. My Firehawk is an older model with no form of ALR. Just a grey screen with roughly a 1.1 gain.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


I also made the switch from a standard Epson projector + Firehawk combo to a UST + lenticular screen combo. You won't want to use the Firehawk with the UST, because it will reject light coming from the projector. Speaking from experience as I tried white wall, Firehawk, and lenticular screen side by side on my current UST (Viewsonic PX800HD-S) and the white wall was brighter than the Firehawk screen


----------



## ered

Mikkle said:


> I also made the switch from a standard Epson projector + Firehawk combo to a UST + lenticular screen combo. You won't want to use the Firehawk with the UST, because it will reject light coming from the projector. Speaking from experience as I tried white wall, Firehawk, and lenticular screen side by side on my current UST (Viewsonic PX800HD-S) and the white wall was brighter than the Firehawk screen


The Optoma P1 has a throw ratio of 0.25. The vertical offset will be proportional to the distance the projector is away from the wall, and is a function of the laser prismatic throw angle which is oriented sharply upward for a UST projector. It is not clear yet what the offset will be and is often represented as the vertical distance from the the counter on which the projector rests to the bottom of the image. Reviewing other UST projectors it would seem that the vertical offset would be somewhere around 13" - 15" for a 120" diagonal image, but this remains to be seen as Optoma has not yet released these details, or I can't find them.


----------



## ered

ered said:


> The Optoma P1 has a throw ratio of 0.25. The vertical offset will be proportional to the distance the projector is away from the wall, and is a function of the laser prismatic throw angle which is oriented sharply upward for a UST projector. It is not clear yet what the offset will be and is often represented as the vertical distance from the the counter on which the projector rests to the bottom of the image. Reviewing other UST projectors it would seem that the vertical offset would be somewhere around 13" - 15" for a 120" diagonal image, but this remains to be seen as Optoma has not yet released these details, or I can't find them.


Sorry, this response was to diggumsmax response above.


----------



## Tyler Duncan

I went with the XY screen based on forum posts, Youtube videos and mainly price for product. Close second for price would have been the viewsonic bcp120, but the Elite CLR was about a grand more and I couldn't justify the difference.


----------



## solal-

Did someone test the xy fresnel screen ?


----------



## cyrilryo

Have seen P1 in action in HK AV Show last weekend, cannot comment on image quality because the booth is open without proper light control, its projected on a 100 inch ALR, impression is not bad with full environment lights from everywhere, but seems it has worser rainbow effect on bright white colour compare with its little LED brother UHL55, which I am currently using.


----------



## diggumsmax

Mikkle said:


> I also made the switch from a standard Epson projector + Firehawk combo to a UST + lenticular screen combo. You won't want to use the Firehawk with the UST, because it will reject light coming from the projector. Speaking from experience as I tried white wall, Firehawk, and lenticular screen side by side on my current UST (Viewsonic PX800HD-S) and the white wall was brighter than the Firehawk screen


I really appreciate the feedback granted it's a shame that I can't use my Firehawk with the Optoma. Based of the vertical offset, it looks like I'm going to need a new av cabinet too. My current one is more than likely too tall. I might be able to do a 100 inches but the screen would be almost touching the ceiling with my current cabinet. Oh well, at least I know what I need to do now. 

Considering the price of these UST ALR screens, I'm still going to wait until I get my projector before I buy a screen. I have to measure everything 5 to 6 times before spending that much on a screen to make sure I can make it work. 

I took four years off buying any av equipment outside of gaming consoles. I had forgotten how quickly things add up. I did find some av cabinets built specifically for UST projectors but they are also out of my price range. I really need to know the vertical offset before I can make any real decisions. I may DIY the av cabinet. As ered pointed out, the offset will be more for 120 than 100. 110 would probably be the sweet spot for me but the only brand I could find that has screens at that size is SI. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## juic-E-juice

Has anyone found a 120” fresnel screen yet? 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ProjectionHead

diggumsmax said:


> Considering the price of these UST ALR screens, I'm still going to wait until I get my projector before I buy a screen. I have to measure everything 5 to 6 times before spending that much on a screen to make sure I can make it work.


That's a good idea. You will know exactly where the image lies in relation to projector/credenza to make the most informed purchase



diggumsmax said:


> As ered pointed out, the offset will be more for 120 than 100. 110 would probably be the sweet spot for me but the only brand I could find that has screens at that size is SI.


Da-lite also offers sizes between 100-120": https://www.projectorscreen.com/da-lite?Attribs=5618+672&sort=PriceAsc


----------



## diggumsmax

juic-E-juice said:


> Has anyone found a 120” fresnel screen yet?
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


From my research, Fresnel currently maxes out at 100. I couldn't find anyone that would ship the XY fresnel screen. They are hard screen and I was told by one reseller in China that it was around 175lbs to ship. They wouldn't do it due to size and weight, at least not for an individual order of one screen. They immediately started telling me to look at the XY pet crystal screens. DNP maxes out at 100 as well and I couldn't even find a price on one. It seems like Fresnel screens are mostly used for conference rooms with extremely high ambient light at the moment. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## maverick87r

Ended up with a 90” elite clr screen on its way. Got a great deal and seating is close so don’t need too big. Now just need the projector to release. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## chinmokutak

I know the projector isn't out yet, but What's the best way to buy this in Canada? Are we impacted by trump tax?


----------



## amatching

https://youtu.be/caqoasD2sjU anyone recommending this screen it looks fantastic


----------



## tonymaxbirt

Just read the spec sheet on the projector, the input lag is a little disappointing. Does it have a 1080p 120hz mode, and would input lag be slightly lower in this mode? thanks

Input Response 55ms (4K UHD, 60 Hz, Game Mode) SmartFIT and PureMotion must be disabled for Game Mode


----------



## Gae80uk

@tonymaxbirt where did you find the input lag? 55ms would be acceptable considering most of 4K UST pjs perform around 60 to 100 (even the new LG is 57 in game mode I believe)


----------



## Frank714

bix26 said:


> @*Tuan* (a rep from Optoma) confirmed 3D early on in this thread.



Then it's just strange it wasn't even mentioned in the latest, official specifications and all those preceeding these.


Assuming Optoma's target group are not traditional front projector users but folks that want a bigger, affordable flat image - and bearing in mind that new flat screens no longer support 3D - I'd consider the lack of mentioning a missed PR opportunity, to say the least.


----------



## ered

Frank714 said:


> Then it's just strange it wasn't even mentioned in the latest, official specifications and all those preceeding these.
> 
> 
> Assuming Optoma's target group are not traditional front projector users but folks that want a bigger, affordable flat image - and bearing in mind that new flat screens no longer support 3D - I'd consider the lack of mentioning a missed PR opportunity, to say the least.


Optoma P1 3D appears to be fully supported as stated in the data sheet at https://www.*********************/uploads/Optoma_CinamaX_P1_Datasheet.pdf ; my problem is that the vertical offset is higher than expected.


----------



## ered

ered said:


> Optoma P1 3D appears to be fully supported as stated in the data sheet at https://www.*********************/uploads/Optoma_CinamaX_P1_Datasheet.pdf ; my problem is that the vertical offset is higher than expected.


Appears that I can't post a URL; just go to value electronics website and look at the P1 spec sheet.


----------



## colinmatheny11

Unless the Picture quality is horrendous, this will be my next UST PJ. Currently using a Viewsonic LS 820 which honestly isn't bad PQ wise, but its 3 years old and doesn't accept 4k. If the Optoma can match the Viewsonic in regards to color gamut (it should) and I can have 4K/HDR10/HLG, etc... I'm happy.


----------



## ProjectionHead

amatching said:


> https://youtu.be/caqoasD2sjU anyone recommending this screen it looks fantastic


I don't think it looks very good at all in this video paired with the UST. The way ALR works is by rejecting light from certain angles. A UST ALR screen should not work well with a standard throw projector and vice versa. This stuff is advertised to work with all throws which is probably why it doesn't look very good with the UST in this video.


----------



## Ricoflashback

***What I've always maintained is that with 4K and regardless of the technology - OLED, LCD or Projector -- what really matters is how a 720p or 1080i source is "upscaled." That is most of my content from cable or OTA. Yes, I do have Netflix and Amazon and I would certainly hope that the picture will be better with a native 1080p/4K/4K+HDR feed. 

I'm really excited about UST PJ's and believe they are they easiest path to that "large screen experience." I'm sure there will be some hiccups along the way and it would be great if more manufacturers got into the game with more UST products/options.


----------



## Self-Righteous

ProjectionHead said:


> I don't think it looks very good at all in this video paired with the UST. The way ALR works is by rejecting light from certain angles. A UST ALR screen should not work well with a standard throw projector and vice versa. This stuff is advertised to work with all throws which is probably why it doesn't look very good with the UST in this video.


How do you think it would pair with a wall in perfect condition treated with grey ALR paint? It's quite expensive but still cheaper and more ergonomic than buying and fitting a dedicated screen.


----------



## copperfield74

After seeing the specs I think that this PJ suits more my desires. I was thinking about buying the Wemax A300 but the Optima gives me more a good feeling. I'm quite sure that the 3D will be better than Xiaomis that seems to screw up the colours. So now I have to wait at least another month. Hopefully it will be released in Germany the same time it comes out abroad. 
Hopefully it will play 24fps and 50fps without stuttering. That was another big let down with Xiaomi. I'm looking forward spending my money with Optoma.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Self-Righteous said:


> How do you think it would pair with a wall in perfect condition treated with grey ALR paint? It's quite expensive but still cheaper and more ergonomic than buying and fitting a dedicated screen.


No idea, but I am familiar with Paint on Screen and their coatings. They are very popular and work fantastic. 

https://www.projectorscreen.com/projector-screen-paint-on-screen

Coatings can work very well but if it all rests in the application. Any texture on the wall will distort your pixel's geometry and reduce the clarity. These types of coatings are not ideal for ALR due to how ALR actually works. They may give you darker blacks and a higher perceived contrast, but they are possibly claiming "ALR" by reducing viewing angle (so reducing light hitting screen from sides) and amplifying projected image back to you with a high gain, increasing the brightness of the projected light.

That video definitely did not demonstrate ALR properties like you would see from a proper surface.


----------



## Gae80uk

Checking the specs, interesting to see that HDMI ARC is actually passing through Dolby Digital Plus...so theoretically Dolby Atmos content with a DA soundbar or AV receiver should work!


----------



## ProjectionHead

ered said:


> The Optoma P1 has a throw ratio of 0.25. The vertical offset will be proportional to the distance the projector is away from the wall, and is a function of the laser prismatic throw angle which is oriented sharply upward for a UST projector. It is not clear yet what the offset will be and is often represented as the vertical distance from the the counter on which the projector rests to the bottom of the image. Reviewing other UST projectors it would seem that the vertical offset would be somewhere around 13" - 15" for a 120" diagonal image, but this remains to be seen as Optoma has not yet released these details, or I can't find them.


Per one of my contacts at Optoma today:


Notes about vertical offset: In order to calculate where the image from the projector will lie in relation to the table/credenza/stand you will take the height of the image you wish to make and multiply it by .24 and then round down to the nearest inch.

- Example: 100" Diagonal Screen is 49" tall

- .24 * 49= 11.76", rounded down to 11". 

- The reasoning for rounding down is to accommodate the slight variances as well as the ability to adjust projector positioning with the feet on bottom of the projector.


----------



## diggumsmax

ProjectionHead said:


> Per one of my contacts at Optoma today:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notes about vertical offset: In order to calculate where the image from the projector will lie in relation to the table/credenza/stand you will take the height of the image you wish to make and multiply it by .24 and then round down to the nearest inch.
> 
> 
> 
> - Example: 100" Diagonal Screen is 49" tall
> 
> 
> 
> - .24 * 49= 11.76", rounded down to 11".
> 
> 
> 
> - The reasoning for rounding down is to accommodate the slight variances as well as the ability to adjust projector positioning with the feet on bottom of the projector.


Is the vertical offset distance from the shelf/ cabinet the UST projector is sitting on or the top of the projector which is just over 5 inches. I believe others have stated it's from the shelf/cabinet but just want to verify. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Brajesh

Moderator Edit: Link removed due to virus alert


----------



## Chapla1n

Gae80uk said:


> 55ms would be acceptable considering most of 4K UST pjs perform around 60 to 100 (even the new LG is 57 in game mode I believe)



...projectors are not really competitive against other gamers on 4ms monitors, unfortunately.


----------



## ZAPH

The spec sheet doesn't really say whether output is 24p capable or not. The sheet says video compatibility is "4K UHD 2160p (24/50/60Hz), 1080p (24/50/60Hz), 1080i (50/60Hz),720p(50/60Hz), 480i/p,576i/p" but that doesn't mean it outputs similarly. Or does it? 

We all just found out the $6,000 LG UST does NOT do 24p at its nutty price. 

I hope the Optoma P1 does. No one wants judder on a PJ > $3K...

Am I missing something?


----------



## chinmokutak

Just curious, for those who are buying UST, what kind of media stand do you have? would the hight dependent on UST projector?
I'm assuming with the UST, the position of pj is not so forgiving?


----------



## ered

ZAPH said:


> The spec sheet doesn't really say whether output is 24p capable or not. The sheet says video compatibility is "4K UHD 2160p (24/50/60Hz), 1080p (24/50/60Hz), 1080i (50/60Hz),720p(50/60Hz), 480i/p,576i/p" but that doesn't mean it outputs similarly. Or does it?
> 
> We all just found out the $6,000 LG UST does NOT do 24p at its nutty price.
> 
> I hope the Optoma P1 does. No one wants judder on a PJ > $3K...
> 
> Am I missing something?


Not an expert but those specs should mean that the input video signal (HDMI input to the P1) can be in 4K at 24/50/60Hz and in HD (1080p) also at 24/50/60Hz, plus other resolutions noted. 50 Hz is needed outside of the U.S.; 24 Hz will be needed for 3D content at 1080P, and is the standard frequency for BluRay movies. 4K BluRay players are generally able to upscale lower resolutions to 4K. You use of the word output seems confusing as projectors are meant primarily to receive and display signals input to them. HDR (color) content may limit the frequency capability of the projector.


----------



## ZAPH

ered said:


> Not an expert but those specs should mean that the input video signal (HDMI input to the P1) can be in 4K at 24/50/60Hz and in HD (1080p) also at 24/50/60Hz, plus other resolutions noted. 50 Hz is needed outside of the U.S.; 24 Hz will be needed for 3D content at 1080P, and is the standard frequency for BluRay movies. 4K BluRay players are generally able to upscale lower resolutions to 4K. You use of the word output seems confusing as projectors are meant primarily to receive and display signals input to them. HDR (color) content may limit the frequency capability of the projector.


I mean can I expect the laser to show a 4K/24p moving image on the wall when I provided a 4K/24p input from an UHD Blu-Ray player or similar?


----------



## ered

ZAPH said:


> I mean can I expect the laser to show a 4K/24p moving image on the wall when I provided a 4K/24p input from an UHD Blu-Ray player or similar?


Yes, the specs say the projector should replicate the same frequency and resolution. Projector up-scaling will simply provide more pixels but at the same frequency as encoded. The newer projectors provide a 1.4 HDMI port for 1080p and lower resolutions and a 2.0 HDMI port for 4K resolutions, including up-scaled content from a 4K BD player.


----------



## Gae80uk

Chapla1n said:


> ...projectors are not really competitive against other gamers on 4ms monitors, unfortunately.


Yes, I was comparing it to my experience with my LG Oled 65 B7...it's 21ms on game mode and looks great, so 55ms should do as well.
Not a FPS maniac of course


----------



## Chapla1n

Gae80uk said:


> Yes, I was comparing it to my experience with my LG Oled 65 B7...it's 21ms on game mode and looks great, so 55ms should do as well.
> Not a FPS maniac of course



On my 1080ST I've just got used to the occasional walking around a corner and finding myself already dead.


----------



## GregK

ered said:


> Not an expert but those specs should mean that the input video signal (HDMI input to the P1) can be in 4K at 24/50/60Hz and in HD (1080p) also at 24/50/60Hz, plus other resolutions noted. 50 Hz is needed outside of the U.S.; 24 Hz will be needed for 3D content at 1080P, and is the standard frequency for BluRay movies. 4K BluRay players are generally able to upscale lower resolutions to 4K. You use of the word output seems confusing as projectors are meant primarily to receive and display signals input to them. HDR (color) content may limit the frequency capability of the projector.


If this projector follows the same as standard DLP 3-D projectors, for 1080i and 720p 60fps 3-D material, the projector would run at 120hz, with a progressive 3-2 pulldown per eye delivering 60fps per eye. 

With 24fps (23.976 but ya get the idea) 3-D material, the projector runs at 144hz, so it can do jutter free 3-D at 72hz per eye.

This is how lamp based DLP projectors do 3-D, and wouldn't expect the laser source to do it differently. Still would be nice to be confirmed though.


----------



## ProjectionHead

diggumsmax said:


> Is the vertical offset distance from the shelf/ cabinet the UST projector is sitting on or the top of the projector which is just over 5 inches. I believe others have stated it's from the shelf/cabinet but just want to verify.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Check out the illustration at the bottom of this page regarding offset from projector to screen:
https://www.projectorscreen.com/opt...nema-laser-projector-integrated-soundbar.html


----------



## colinmatheny11

ProjectionHead said:


> Check out the illustration at the bottom of this page regarding offset from projector to screen:
> 
> https://www.projectorscreen.com/opt...nema-laser-projector-integrated-soundbar.html


Wouldn't you want to round up instead of down? For example, 12 inches to the table top to the screen can be reduced by extension of the projector legs of .24 inches to achieve 11.76 inches. If you rounded down to 11, you can't negatively lower the table top by adjustment of the projector legs... Right? You'd end up with less than 11 inches. 

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk


----------



## chinmokutak

ProjectionHead said:


> Check out the illustration at the bottom of this page regarding offset from projector to screen:
> https://www.projectorscreen.com/opt...nema-laser-projector-integrated-soundbar.html


Just so that I understand, you need to have exactly 11" to the screen?


----------



## copperfield74

ZAPH said:


> We all just found out the $6,000 LG UST does NOT do 24p at its nutty price.


Really? I can't believe it. Where did you get this from? That would be stupid from their side.


----------



## ProjectionHead

chinmokutak said:


> Just so that I understand, you need to have exactly 11" to the screen?


I was told by an Optoma sales engineer to multiply the height of the image by .24 and then round down to the nearest inch.

For a 100" screen it is suggested to have the console 11" below the bottom of the viewing area. You can adjust the feet on the projector as well to compensate for the 6% up/down variance in this calculation.

When we get our next unit I will do some measurements and post details of placement.


----------



## ProjectionHead

colinmatheny11 said:


> Wouldn't you want to round up instead of down? For example, 12 inches to the table top to the screen can be reduced by extension of the projector legs of .24 inches to achieve 11.76 inches. If you rounded down to 11, you can't negatively lower the table top by adjustment of the projector legs... Right? You'd end up with less than 11 inches.
> 
> Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk


I was told by an Optoma sales engineer to multiply the height of the image by .24 and then round down to the nearest inch. You cannot 'reduce' the height by adjusting the legs from their default position, you can only increase the height of the projector as the legs start flush with the projector. 

I will confirm placement measurements when we get our hands on the P1 again.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Hey y'all, I got some more answers from Optoma:

Q: _Can you also confirm if it will/will not support 3d?_

Optoma: *Blu-ray 3D is supported. No limitations.*


Q: _Also, how would one hook up a subwoofer to the P1?_

Optoma: *3.5mm audio cable to audio out on Projector. In my testing – 3.5mm via audio out works VERY well for sub.*


Q: _Do you know the input lag? (for gamers)_

Optoma: *Prelim data from Core is around 60ms with NO SmartFIT Geometry Correction and No PureMotion (disabled) – I am working to verify. If gaming, I strongly suggest a manual setup with no SmartFIT. In the SmartFIT Installation Guide, I cover setup with fixed frame screen with SmartFIT and fixed frame with NO SmartFIT.*


----------



## Gae80uk

Yeah, in the tech sheet it says 55ms in game mode (no SmartFit/PureMotion) which is totally fine for any casual/no hardcore FPS gamer  


Q: _Do you know the input lag? (for gamers)_

Optoma: *Prelim data from Core is around 60ms with NO SmartFIT Geometry Correction and No PureMotion (disabled) – I am working to verify. If gaming, I strongly suggest a manual setup with no SmartFIT. In the SmartFIT Installation Guide, I cover setup with fixed frame screen with SmartFIT and fixed frame with NO SmartFIT.*[/QUOTE]


----------



## J Bone

chinmokutak said:


> Just curious, for those who are buying UST, what kind of media stand do you have? would the hight dependent on UST projector?
> 
> I'm assuming with the UST, the position of pj is not so forgiving?


I'm personally using the Sanus JFV60 (discontinued unfortunately) and couldn't be happier. Very low profile, solid construction, and large depth unlike many others out there. Originally purchased it for the large depth due to a Pioneer receiver that was deeper than average AVRs. But now with a UST projector the table top gives me more room to maneuver around to adjust it to my screen if need be. You could also always custom build a cabinet to meet your needs. Marcad80 posted pictures of some pretty good ideas on the ViewSonic PX800HD w/ BCP120 Screen forum. Once the Optoma P1 officially launches and after reviews come out, I'll probably be looking into a building a custom fit cabinet for it assuming it is worth the price of admission.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Frank714

ProjectionHead said:


> Q: _Also, how would one hook up a subwoofer to the P1?_
> 
> Optoma: *3.5mm audio cable to audio out on Projector. In my testing – 3.5mm via audio out works VERY well for sub*.



I remain curious how this will practically work - isolate the LFE information from the incoming, digital HDMI audio signal, convert it to analog and sent it out via a 3.5mm adapter cable with an RCA subwoofer connector on the other end?


Which reminds that we still haven't seen any picture of the P1's input panel. Should there be a P1 at IFA I'll take a picture, but would prefer an official one, soon.


----------



## chinmokutak

J Bone said:


> I'm personally using the Sanus JFV60 (discontinued unfortunately) and couldn't be happier. Very low profile, solid construction, and large depth unlike many others out there. Originally purchased it for the large depth due to a Pioneer receiver that was deeper than average AVRs. But now with a UST projector the table top gives me more room to maneuver around to adjust it to my screen if need be. You could also always custom build a cabinet to meet your needs. Marcad80 posted pictures of some pretty good ideas on the ViewSonic PX800HD w/ BCP120 Screen forum. Once the Optoma P1 officially launches and after reviews come out, I'll probably be looking into a building a custom fit cabinet for it assuming it is worth the price of admission.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Wow, Custom cabinet for a projector!? I thought the benefit of UST was less installation headache


----------



## Brajesh

ProjectionHead said:


> Hey y'all, I got some more answers from Optoma:
> 
> Q: _Can you also confirm if it will/will not support 3d?_
> 
> Optoma: *Blu-ray 3D is supported. No limitations.*


Yes!!! Thanks for verifying!

Re-uploading the spec sheet here; last one was oddly identified as a virus (it isn't).


----------



## HTCrazy2

Frank714 said:


> I remain curious how this will practically work - isolate the LFE information from the incoming, digital HDMI audio signal, convert it to analog and sent it out via a 3.5mm adapter cable with an RCA subwoofer connector on the other end?


It works the same as any other subwoofer. The 3.5 out is full range audio. The subwoofer filters everything out but the bottom low pass frequencies to whatever the user settings are on the subwoofer or in the audio settings of the projector. I’m sure the optical out would do the same thing, but the majority of subwoofers have analog inputs while it’s rarer to offer optical or digital coax inputs (unfortunately).

The addition of a subwoofer correctly dialed in will make the projector speakers much more viable as a primary audio setup for many. I’m sure it will never happen, but it would be great if Optoma would recommend specific subwoofers that are a good match in timbre with the speakers.


----------



## ProjectionHead

HTCrazy2 said:


> It works the same as any other subwoofer. The 3.5 out is full range audio. The subwoofer filters everything out but the bottom low pass frequencies to whatever the user settings are on the subwoofer or in the audio settings of the projector. I’m sure the optical out would do the same thing, but the majority of subwoofers have analog inputs while it’s rarer to offer optical or digital coax inputs (unfortunately).
> 
> The addition of a subwoofer correctly dialed in will make the projector speakers much more viable as a primary audio setup for many. I’m sure it will never happen, but it would be great if Optoma would recommend specific subwoofers that are a good match in timbre with the speakers.


I wouldn't be surprised if you saw a Nuforce (Optoma's sister company and maker of the soundbar in this projector) subwoofer to pair with this sometime soon.


----------



## HTCrazy2

ProjectionHead said:


> I wouldn't be surprised if you saw a Nuforce (Optoma's sister company and maker of the soundbar in this projector) subwoofer to pair with this sometime soon.


That would/could be great. I know NuForce went out of business and then were bought out by Optoma. I have the feeling they’re not really a full fledged audio company any more but I could be wrong. The P1 might have been what Optoma had in mind when they bought NuForce (or their assets).


----------



## Gae80uk

Strange thing about the P1 EU version (UHZ65UST)....it looks like it's 

- 3.200 lumens vs 3.000 (P1)
- 2.000.000:1 contrast ratio vs 1.500.000:1 (P1)
- £3.999 aka $4.863 vs $2.999 (P1)...crazy price gap!
- it confirms 3D and 24fps 

Specs link here: https://www.projectors.co.uk/media/import/documents//OPTOMAUHZ65USTPROJECTOR.pdf

What is going on Optoma?!


----------



## Frank714

That's indeed very strange.


But thanks to your link...WE FINALLY GOT A REAR VIEW OF THE CINEMAX P1


----------



## TTBear

Gae80uk said:


> Strange thing about the P1 EU version (UHZ65UST)....it looks like it's
> 
> - 3.200 lumens vs 3.000 (P1)
> - 2.000.000:1 contrast ratio vs 1.500.000:1 (P1)
> - £3.999 aka $4.863 vs $2.999 (P1)...crazy price gap!
> - it confirms 3D and 24fps
> 
> Specs link here: https://www.projectors.co.uk/media/import/documents//OPTOMAUHZ65USTPROJECTOR.pdf
> 
> What is going on Optoma?!


I just received word that in Canada, the P1 price will be CDN $6000+, which works out to US $4500. Ugh.


----------



## Gae80uk

I am afraid this might happen to U.S. price too...Optoma UK told me that final P1 price might align with EU one...:I

Hopefully this won't happen or it would be a big turn off, honestly



TTBear said:


> I just received word that in Canada, the P1 price will be CDN $6000+, which works out to US $4500. Ugh.


----------



## TTBear

Gae80uk said:


> I am afraid this might happen to U.S. price too...Optoma UK told me that final P1 price might align with EU one...:I
> 
> Hopefully this won't happen or it would be a big turn off, honestly


I agree.

Currently, I am on the pre-order list for the LG HU85LA (I am told I am first on the list at Eastporters up here in Canada), but the lack of 3D has me thinking the Optoma might be a better fit, thus my renewed interest in the P1.


----------



## copperfield74

Gae80uk said:


> Strange thing about the P1 EU version (UHZ65UST)....it looks like it's
> 
> - 3.200 lumens vs 3.000 (P1)
> - 2.000.000:1 contrast ratio vs 1.500.000:1 (P1)
> - £3.999 aka $4.863 vs $2.999 (P1)...crazy price gap!
> - it confirms 3D and 24fps
> 
> Specs link here: https://www.projectors.co.uk/media/import/documents//OPTOMAUHZ65USTPROJECTOR.pdf
> 
> What is going on Optoma?!



You must be kidding me. That's horrible if that's true. I was so happy that I didn't had to buy a Xiaomi Wemax A300 and now the raised the price around 62%? That's so sad! I haven't found any Euro prices yet but I'm afraid that it will make me cry.
That's the feeling I had when I was told that Santa doesn't exist. :-(
Shame on Optoma!


----------



## copperfield74

copperfield74 said:


> You must be kidding me. That's horrible if that's true. I was so happy that I didn't had to buy a Xiaomi Wemax A300 and now the raised the price around 62%? That's so sad! I haven't found any Euro prices yet but I'm afraid that it will make me cry.
> That's the feeling I had when I was told that Santa doesn't exist. :-(
> Shame on Optoma!



And I don't see any 2D 24Hz compatibility anymore. All the hype is gone!!!!


----------



## chinmokutak

TTBear said:


> I just received word that in Canada, the P1 price will be CDN $6000+, which works out to US $4500. Ugh.


Where did you hear that? I was told it's going to be CDN $3999


----------



## TTBear

chinmokutak said:


> Where did you hear that? I was told it's going to be CDN $3999


I got the "quote", from Eastporters in Canada. They stated that the anticipated price for the P1 would be CDN $6000+.

Where did you hear that the pricing was $3999? That would be MUCH better!


----------



## Brajesh

If price is above $3K in the U.S., I'll likely just stick to w/the UHD51A I have.


----------



## diggumsmax

Frank714 said:


> That's indeed very strange.
> 
> 
> But thanks to your link...WE FINALLY GOT A REAR VIEW OF THE CINEMAX P1


according to their website it has three HDMI inputs and three USB inputs. There are only two in this picture although there could be one on the side. I don't know what's going on Optoma right now but they better not jack up the price.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## kthejoker20

If this thing is above $3k, can we move this thread to the high end forum, stop getting my hopes up?


Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Troy LaMont

kthejoker20 said:


> If this thing is above $3k, can we move this thread to the high end forum, stop getting my hopes up?
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


They're talking about Canadian prices above bro...$2,999 in the US as was announced and verified.


----------



## Troy LaMont

copperfield74 said:


> And I don't see any 2D 24Hz compatibility anymore. All the hype is gone!!!!


That PDF looks like it was put together by the retailer and it has disclaimers at the bottom about omitted or incorrect specs, PLUS it's not even for the American market, I would take that with a huge grain of salt.


----------



## Troy LaMont

diggumsmax said:


> according to their website it has three HDMI inputs and three USB inputs. There are only two in this picture although there could be one on the side. I don't know what's going on Optoma right now but they better not jack up the price.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


The third HDMI input is on the side, read the official US PDF on post #380 posted by @Brajesh.


----------



## Johnny nz

Has anybody mentioned if Firmware will be user-upgradable via USB ??


----------



## chinmokutak

chinmokutak said:


> TTBear said:
> 
> 
> 
> I just received word that in Canada, the P1 price will be CDN $6000+, which works out to US $4500. Ugh.
> 
> 
> 
> Where did you hear that? I was told it's going to be CDN $3999
Click to expand...


Just got it from Eastporters, you mentioned you got lg one from them?


----------



## TTBear

chinmokutak said:


> Just got it from Eastporters, you mentioned you got lg one from them?


So weird. Eastporters told me they are anticipating that the retail price of the Optoma P1 to be CDN "$6000+"? 

I really hope it will be CDN $3999. If it is, I am tempted to switch my pre-order to the P1. 

Thanks for the info!


----------



## chinmokutak

TTBear said:


> So weird. Eastporters told me they are anticipating that the retail price of the Optoma P1 to be CDN "$6000+"?
> 
> I really hope it will be CDN $3999. If it is, I am tempted to switch my pre-order to the P1.
> 
> Thanks for the info!


hmmm, I hope they weren't trying to just get deposit...


----------



## Frank714

Notice for European customers: Received the latest issue of Germany's AudioVision yesterday and although it's not their philosophy to test entry level home theater projectors, unless there is something to write home about, next month's issue (mid-September) will NOT feature a test or preview of the Cinemax P1 / UHZ65UST but instead the Optoma UHD40. 


Looks to me as if they reserved the spot for the P1, but instead now have to fill it with the UHD40, so it seems as if European customers might have to wait a little bit longer for the P1... ("America First!" )


AFAIK - according to the BenQ threads:https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ncement-ownera-s-thread-147.html#post58422220 - the higher import taxes for front projectors made in China for US customers become effective on September 1, 2019.


Thus I would have rather expected a 10% increase on the US Price tag of 2,999 $, but definitely not for other territories as these aren't affected by the tarif increase. Very strange, hopefully Optoma can clear this up and resolve these open questions.


----------



## Gae80uk

Thanks for the info, infact looks like EU release has been pushed to mid Oct 2019...

Generally bit worried about pricing increase in EU/U.S.: if it goes towards 4/5k price tag then LG UST goes back in the mix as dual laser.
This would be a huge boomerang for Optoma after having marketed $3k for a while.

Let's see what happens :/



Frank714 said:


> Notice for European customers: Received the latest issue of Germany's AudioVision yesterday and although it's not their philosophy to test entry level home theater projectors, unless there is something to write home about, next month's issue (mid-September) will NOT feature a test or preview of the Cinemax P1 / UHZ65UST but instead the Optoma UHD40.
> 
> 
> Looks to me as if they reserved the spot for the P1, but instead now have to fill it with the UHD40, so it seems as if European customers might have to wait a little bit longer for the P1... ("America First!" )
> 
> 
> AFAIK - according to the BenQ threads:https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ncement-ownera-s-thread-147.html#post58422220 - the higher import taxes for front projectors made in China for US customers become effective on September 1, 2019.
> 
> 
> Thus I would have rather expected a 10% increase on the US Price tag of 2,999 $, but definitely not for other territories as these aren't affected by the tarif increase. Very strange, hopefully Optoma can clear this up and resolve these open questions.


----------



## Troy LaMont

Johnny nz said:


> Has anybody mentioned if Firmware will be user-upgradable via USB ??


It will be, see post #380 for the manufacturers PDF.


----------



## Rimo

60 ms input latency 

Looks like I won't be purchasing a UST this year after all.


----------



## ProjectionHead

diggumsmax said:


> according to their website it has three HDMI inputs and three USB inputs. There are only two in this picture although there could be one on the side. I don't know what's going on Optoma right now but they better not jack up the price.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


There is a USB port on the side that you can plug the remote control into in order to charge it.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Troy LaMont said:


> They're talking about Canadian prices above bro...$2,999 in the US as was announced and verified.


... unfortunately it may be "un-verified" due to the tariffs coming into effect 9/1. I am hoping to get an updated "confirmed" price before the end of the month from Optoma.


----------



## struggledave

I paid one to reserve mine at Eastporter 3999$ with Elunevision Nanoedge UST ALR 110 inch 2800$ .It should be at home at the end of September.


----------



## Gae80uk

@struggledave are those CDN $ or U.S. ones?


----------



## TTBear

Gae80uk said:


> @struggledave are those CDN $ or U.S. ones?


That’s CDN dollars. That’s the same discount they offered to me. Retail “$6000+”, discounted price $3999.


----------



## Gae80uk

Well that's in line with $2.999 in U.S. then


----------



## TTBear

Gae80uk said:


> Well that's in line with $2.999 in U.S. then /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif


Hahahaha - true.....sort of.....🤣


----------



## CopyRon

Sorry if it's been asked, but can this be projected from above or rear projection?


----------



## colinmatheny11

CopyRon said:


> Sorry if it's been asked, but can this be projected from above or rear projection?


Yes and yes was my understanding. 

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk


----------



## CopyRon

colinmatheny11 said:


> Yes and yes was my understanding.
> 
> Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk




Well then I will be getting one of these!!!


----------



## zdjelar

chinmokutak said:


> Just curious, for those who are buying UST, what kind of media stand do you have? would the hight dependent on UST projector?
> I'm assuming with the UST, the position of pj is not so forgiving?


So this is my concern as well. I assume my wife will want to change the console, room decide and I’ll want to upgrade to a newer UST projector over time. For all these reasons I want to explore any options to mount my 120 inch fixed screen in a way that allows me to tweak the height of it as console furniture and projector change without having to re-drill/re-mount. So imagine being able to go up or down by about 1-2 feet as needed. 

I posted in the Screens section asking if anyone has already figured this out, but seems this doesn’t exist as a simple wall mounting option to buy. 

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...vava-4k-ust-pj-announced.html#/topics/3085254

Anyone in here know of something to make this possible?


----------



## bix26

zdjelar said:


> So this is my concern as well. I assume my wife will want to change the console, room decide and I’ll want to upgrade to a newer UST projector over time. For all these reasons I want to explore any options to mount my 120 inch fixed screen in a way that allows me to tweak the height of it as console furniture and projector change without having to re-drill/re-mount. So imagine being able to go up or down by about 1-2 feet as needed.
> 
> I posted in the Screens section asking if anyone has already figured this out, but seems this doesn’t exist as a simple wall mounting option to buy.
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...vava-4k-ust-pj-announced.html#/topics/3085254
> 
> Anyone in here know of something to make this possible?




It’s not fixed but is tap tensioned. I’m thinking of building this into a cabinet once I decide what 4k UST I’m going to buy.


----------



## zdjelar

bix26 said:


> zdjelar said:
> 
> 
> 
> So this is my concern as well. I assume my wife will want to change the console, room decide and Iâ€™️ll want to upgrade to a newer UST projector over time. For all these reasons I want to explore any options to mount my 120 inch fixed screen in a way that allows me to tweak the height of it as console furniture and projector change without having to re-drill/re-mount. So imagine being able to go up or down by about 1-2 feet as needed.
> 
> I posted in the Screens section asking if anyone has already figured this out, but seems this doesnâ€™️t exist as a simple wall mounting option to buy.
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...vava-4k-ust-pj-announced.html#/topics/3085254
> 
> Anyone in here know of something to make this possible?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Itâ€™️s not fixed but is tap tensioned. Iâ€™️m thinking of building this into a cabinet once I decide what 4k UST Iâ€™️m going to buy.
Click to expand...

I see what you mean but not that I’m looking for. I want to mount a standard fixed on the wall, but just have flexibility to easily and I’m very small increments move it up and down. 

I have a design in mind to accomplish this and I think I can build an amazing solution for like $25 bucks in materials.


----------



## Johnny nz

I have a problem with this screen, I don’t want to leave the projector on the floor to get kicked , also Carpet would be a big problem with fluff and being unstable so this type of photo is not without a lot of cons


----------



## TTBear

Johnny nz said:


> I have a problem with this screen, I don’t want to leave the projector on the floor to get kicked , also Carpet would be a big problem with fluff and being unstable so this type of photo is not without a lot of cons


You certainly wouldn't have to leave anything on the floor. I believe that the reviewer set things up that way, for simplicity, so he could get the review video out quickly. He has what looks like 2' above the upper border of the screen. One could easily put the screen on top of a credenza, and sit the projector on the credenza as well. Or, that screen also comes with wall mount brackets. My plan is to wall mount the screen about 18" above the floor level, and have a floating shelf just underneath the screen, for the projector to sit atop. 
@chinmokutak - this screen could easily be the solution to your problem, wanting to be able to adjust it in small increments - there is a built-in adjustment, where you can adjust in fine increments, how high the screen rises out of its casing. If you position your existing UST projector in the mid-range, then you could adjust the screen to come out less or more, in the future. That's a win, to me?


----------



## copperfield74

While doing my researches about the P1 I found an UK reseller who has a selling price of 3999GBP (4400€ or 4900USD)


My hopes of 2999USD are fading. :-(


----------



## Frank714

Vivitek also has a UST projector in their pipeline, the HK5200: http://www.szzs360.com/topic/2019/vivitek/3/index.htm


Considering Vivitek's good standing record, I'd believe they are the competitor Optoma should or could be afraid of, so perhaps we'll still end up at 2,999 $ internationally, based on that and other competition... 


I should perhaps also mention, that there is a comeback or improvement of the original and larger 4K XPR 0.66" DMD with a native resolution of 2716×1528 pixels (in contrast to the 1920 x 1080 of the 0.47" DMD), that we'll see first in the Acer V 7850 BD (and which comes with 3D support!) and later this year in a Vivitek.


----------



## Floorit72

$3999 canadian for preorders of the Cinemax P1 at Eastporters in Mississauga Ontario. That works out to less than $2999 usd. European prices seem to be much higher than american prices for the same products.


----------



## TTBear

Floorit72 said:


> $3999 canadian for preorders of the Cinemax P1 at Eastporters in Mississauga Ontario. That works out to less than $2999 usd. European prices seem to be much higher than american prices for the same products.


That is slightly flawed thinking, perhaps? 

The Eastporters pricing is their “discount” pricing, whereas their “full retail pricing” was quoted as CDN $6000+.

I live in hope that the actual MSRP in the US is $3000, and the retail CDN pricing is a commensurate ~$4000!


----------



## krazykozak

Did someone ever post how far from the wall / screen the projector needs to be in order to project 120 inches?

I saw how to calculate the height of where the image is projected - but how deep does my media unit need to be? (is it 26 1/8 inches - .25 X 104.5 (width of 120 inch 16:9 screen) from the FRONT of the unit or is it 29 inches from front of unit since the light looks like it comes from 3 inches in)

Thanks


----------



## J Bone

krazykozak said:


> Did someone ever post how far from the wall / screen the projector needs to be in order to project 120 inches?
> 
> 
> 
> I saw how to calculate the height of where the image is projected - but how deep does my media unit need to be? (is it 26 1/8 inches - .25 X 104.5 (width of 120 inch 16:9 screen) from the FRONT of the unit or is it 29 inches from front of unit since the light looks like it comes from 3 inches in)
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


Check out the spec sheet that was posted a few comments ago. A lot of these questions are addressed all on the spec sheet.









Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## krazykozak

J Bone said:


> Check out the spec sheet that was posted a few comments ago. A lot of these questions are addressed all on the spec sheet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Perfect thanks


----------



## zdjelar

ered said:


> The Optoma P1 has a throw ratio of 0.25. The vertical offset will be proportional to the distance the projector is away from the wall, and is a function of the laser prismatic throw angle which is oriented sharply upward for a UST projector. It is not clear yet what the offset will be and is often represented as the vertical distance from the the counter on which the projector rests to the bottom of the image. Reviewing other UST projectors it would seem that the vertical offset would be somewhere around 13" - 15" for a 120" diagonal image, but this remains to be seen as Optoma has not yet released these details, or I can't find them.


I’m also trying to figure out how far away from the wall the unit will have to sit and how much total depth i need to account for. If it’s close to the LG, it’ll have to be ~7.2 inches from wall and then add the Optoma’s depth which is 15 inches for an approximate total 22.2 inches away from wall to the front edge of the P1. Am i way off on this?


----------



## zdjelar

krazykozak said:


> Perfect thanks


I’m not doubting that this is the spec sheet and accurate, but seems odd that it would require twice the distance from the wall to the back of the unit as the LG (7.2 vs. 14.5). I get that different ratios, lenses, whatever could be used, but double? Just seems odd.

For reference, see page 28 of the LG manual: http://gscs-b2c.lge.com/downloadFile?fileId=TKy1kbZf0zZ0VI28Ff64fQ


----------



## TTBear

So, apparently the pricing for North America has not even been decided as of yet.

This, from the Director for Optoma, Canada:


At the moment, there is no final pricing that has been released for the CinemaX P1 for Canada. In fact, I was at our corporate head office last week (California) and there was nothing final released yet for North America (USA included).


Hmmm........


----------



## Gae80uk

With the projector launching in "2 weeks", honestly all this mist around the price looks so weird...
Maybe it's been pushed back to mid Oct :I

Ah Optoma...



TTBear said:


> So, apparently the pricing for North America has not even been decided as of yet.
> 
> This, from the Director for Optoma, Canada:
> 
> 
> At the moment, there is no final pricing that has been released for the CinemaX P1 for Canada. In fact, I was at our corporate head office last week (California) and there was nothing final released yet for North America (USA included).
> 
> 
> Hmmm........


----------



## chinmokutak

Gae80uk said:


> With the projector launching in "2 weeks", honestly all this mist around the price looks so weird...
> Maybe it's been pushed back to mid Oct :I
> 
> Ah Optoma...


I was thinking exactly that, lack of information seems really weird...


----------



## Chapla1n

Rimo said:


> 60 ms input latency
> 
> Looks like I won't be purchasing a UST this year after all.


Yeah, not so good for gaming.


----------



## Chapla1n

Frank714 said:


> ...there is a comeback or improvement of the original and larger 4K XPR 0.66" DMD with a native resolution of 2716×1528 pixels (in contrast to the 1920 x 1080 of the 0.47" DMD)...



Good to know, thanks! Will be interesting to see how that affects performance. I wonder if that'll feature more in CES 2020's crop of PJs.


----------



## chinmokutak

Chapla1n said:


> Yeah, not so good for gaming.


How bad is it? Can't even do casual gaming?


----------



## Nick Hubbard

Hi Guys,

Question about the P1, my screen is 150" and I read that the P1 has a max size of 120".

Would the P1 be capable of projecting a 150" image, all be it at a greater thro distance?

TIA.


----------



## Gae80uk

50-60ms is fine for casual gaming 



chinmokutak said:


> How bad is it? Can't even do casual gaming?


----------



## ProjectionHead

Nick Hubbard said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> Question about the P1, my screen is 150" and I read that the P1 has a max size of 120".
> 
> Would the P1 be capable of projecting a 150" image, all be it at a greater thro distance?
> 
> TIA.


If you try to make a larger image than a projector states it is "capable of" you will end up out of focus. I'd stick with up to a 120" with this unit


----------



## chinmokutak

gae80uk said:


> 50-60ms is fine for casual gaming


great!


----------



## Chapla1n

chinmokutak said:


> How bad is it? Can't even do casual gaming?



Casual gaming will be fine, it's more an issue for FPSes. Going from a 4ms monitor to my 25-30ms BenQ 1080ST was, well, not really an adjustment, you just ended up walking around a corner and already dead, or having to aim narrowly in front of a moving target to register hits, or being killed seemingly with one shot, but on reviewing the killcam, realizing you'd been hit 3 times. 60ms... not sure if that'll make FPSes unplayable... looking forward to some real-life reviews.


----------



## Chapla1n

A few have asked about media stands. I've been looking for some low-and-long versions myself, so here's a few I found in US stores, from the swanky to the functional. 





https://www.furniturecart.com/cloud-tv-base-179701-tv-jm-furniture.html


https://www.furniturecart.com/trieste-modern-tv-base-18090-jm-furniture.html


https://www.wayfair.com/furniture/p...or-tvs-up-to-75-w000932047.html?piid=33577926
(I went for this one due to having more space for more kit.)



And this one may be too tall for most...
https://www.wayfair.com/furniture/pdp/17-stories-joetta-tv-stand-78-stss1106.html


----------



## ProjectionHead

zdjelar said:


> I’m not doubting that this is the spec sheet and accurate, but seems odd that it would require twice the distance from the wall to the back of the unit as the LG (7.2 vs. 14.5). I get that different ratios, lenses, whatever could be used, but double? Just seems odd.
> 
> For reference, see page 28 of the LG manual: http://gscs-b2c.lge.com/downloadFile?fileId=TKy1kbZf0zZ0VI28Ff64fQ


It's accurate. The LG has a more expensive lens which allows it to be closer to the screen than Optoma, which is half the cost of the LG.


----------



## chinmokutak

Chapla1n said:


> A few have asked about media stands. I've been looking for some low-and-long versions myself, so here's a few I found in US stores, from the swanky to the functional.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.furniturecart.com/cloud-tv-base-179701-tv-jm-furniture.html
> 
> 
> https://www.furniturecart.com/trieste-modern-tv-base-18090-jm-furniture.html
> 
> 
> https://www.wayfair.com/furniture/p...or-tvs-up-to-75-w000932047.html?piid=33577926
> (I went for this one due to having more space for more kit.)
> 
> 
> 
> And this one may be too tall for most...
> https://www.wayfair.com/furniture/pdp/17-stories-joetta-tv-stand-78-stss1106.html


Do people recommend buying media stand first or screen first?


----------



## Troy LaMont

ProjectionHead said:


> It's accurate. The LG has a more expensive lens which allows it to be closer to the screen than Optoma, which is half the cost of the LG.


I don't know where you think the lens in the LG is "more expensive" just because it has a different throw ratio? That was just a choice in optics, doesn't make it more expensive, just different. 

Interestingly, Optoma actually advertises they have an *all glass lens* of high(er) quality and LG doesn't so if anything I would tend to think that the Optoma has a more expensive lens.

Let's stick with the facts.


----------



## Troy LaMont

zdjelar said:


> I’m not doubting that this is the spec sheet and accurate, but seems odd that it would require twice the distance from the wall to the back of the unit as the LG (7.2 vs. 14.5). I get that different ratios, lenses, whatever could be used, but double? Just seems odd.
> 
> For reference, see page 28 of the LG manual: http://gscs-b2c.lge.com/downloadFile?fileId=TKy1kbZf0zZ0VI28Ff64fQ


The difference in price comes from the 3 lasers the LG unit uses; one for blue, one for red and then another blue one that emits through phosphor for green. The lasers themselves are the most expensive component and since the LG has 3 vs 1, that's where the "real" price difference comes from, not the lens.


----------



## chinmokutak

Troy LaMont said:


> The difference in price comes from the 3 lasers the LG unit uses; one for blue, one for red and then another blue one that emits through phosphor for green. The lasers themselves are the most expensive component and since the LG has 3 vs 1, that's where the "real" price difference comes from, not the lens.


I thought LG was two laser, not three am I wrong?


----------



## Troy LaMont

chinmokutak said:


> I thought LG was two laser, not three am I wrong?


2 blue and one red, they advertise as 2 (red and blue) but it's actually 3 in use that's why this UST projector doesn't need a color wheel. There are true *three laser* UST projectors on the horizon (one red, one green, one blue) from Hisense, but it's double the price of this LG plus some. More lasers=more price.


----------



## chinmokutak

Troy LaMont said:


> 2 blue and one red, they advertise as 2 (red and blue) but it's actually 3 in use that's why this UST projector doesn't need a color wheel. There are true *three laser* UST projectors on the horizon (one red, one green, one blue) from Hisense, but it's double the price of this LG plus some. More lasers=more price.


Ahhh, hmm now I'm starting to wonder if I made a rushed decision by going with Optoma...


----------



## Troy LaMont

chinmokutak said:


> Ahhh, hmm now I'm starting to wonder if I made a rushed decision by going with Optoma...


The Optoma will be no slouch, I'd be willing to bet it's *the best* single blue laser on the market when it's released. They have the only known laser modulated Dynamic Black enhancement in a UST, they will have 1000% better audio (if that's important), they also support HLG HDR which the LG doesn't. Pure speculation but I'd be willing to bet you'll get at least 80% of the visual performance from the Optoma as the LG but for half the price. That's a pretty respectable trade off if you ask me.

If you look at the review for the LG on projectorreviews.com, you'll note that the calibrator wasn't too happy with the DCI-P3 color implementation because the red was too hot and the other colors didn't quite get there. One of the reasons dual lasers is the bees knees is because of the expanded color gamut, so if LG messed that up, then it's really a moot point. The only other thing that the LG has going for it is the bigger DLP array (.66 vs .47) so the contrast *should* be better but projectorreviews.com doesn't really go into details or measurements about contrast so we'll have to wait and see on that front.

I think you'll be very happy with the Optoma if everything pans out.

Cheers.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Troy LaMont said:


> I don't know where you think the lens in the LG is "more expensive" just because it has a different throw ratio? That was just a choice in optics, doesn't make it more expensive, just different.
> 
> Interestingly, Optoma actually advertises they have an *all glass lens* of high(er) quality and LG doesn't so if anything I would tend to think that the Optoma has a more expensive lens.
> 
> Let's stick with the facts.


1) I never stated it was the ONLY reason the LG was more expensive - _"The LG has a more expensive lens which allows it to be closer to the screen than Optoma, which is half the cost of the LG."_

2) I was told directly by Optoma regarding the cost of the lenses between the two units. I would assume that they know their facts regarding the cost of the building materials and components better than you or I.


----------



## Troy LaMont

ProjectionHead said:


> I stated a fact told to me directly by Optoma.


But you were discussing the lens on the LG when you made that claim, were you confused or did you misunderstand the topic?


----------



## ProjectionHead

Troy LaMont said:


> But you were discussing the lens on the LG when you made that claim, were you confused or did you misunderstand the topic?


I edited and clarified my statement in post 455 while you wrote this reply. Look up ^^^


----------



## Troy LaMont

ProjectionHead said:


> 1) I never stated it was the ONLY reason the LG was more expensive - _"The LG has a more expensive lens which allows it to be closer to the screen than Optoma, which is half the cost of the LG."_
> 
> 2) I was told directly by Optoma regarding the cost of the lenses between the two units. I would assume that they know their facts regarding the cost of the building materials and components better than you or I.


1. No one is debating whether or not you said it was the *only reason* but you were specifically referring to the lens as cost related factor as was I. At the end of the day, the cost of the UST lens is nominal compared the remainder of the components, so mentioning it is "more expensive" isn't really relative.

2. Even if they know the wholesale manufacturer price, that doesn't take into consideration bulk pricing, manufacturer discounts and a whole host of variables that come into play on the "real" cost to LG, so it's just as much a guess to Optoma as it would be to me or you because we can look those wholesale prices up too.

But the burning question of the day is *why the hell would your contact even make a statement like that about a competitor that already has a one up on their product*? I think whomever your communicating with at Optoma is probably in marketing or janitorial, kind of hard to decide. LMAO 😲

Moving on...


----------



## ProjectionHead

Troy LaMont said:


> 1. No one is debating whether or not you said it was the *only reason* but you were specifically referring to the lens as cost related factor as was I. At the end of the day, the cost of the UST lens is nominal compared the remainder of the components, so mentioning it is "more expensive" isn't really relative.
> 
> 2. Even if they know the wholesale manufacturer price, that doesn't take into consideration bulk pricing, manufacturer discounts and a whole host of variables that come into play on the "real" cost to LG, so it's just as much a guess to Optoma as it would be to me or you because we can look those wholesale prices up too.
> 
> But the burning question of the day is *why the hell would your contact even make a statement like that about a competitor that already has a one up on their product*? I think whomever your communicating with at Optoma is probably in marketing or janitorial, kind of hard to decide. LMAO 😲
> 
> Moving on...


Optoma is owned by Coretronic, an OEM projector manufacturer which provides products for many projector brands in addition to their own. 

The "janitors" that I speak to understand the costs involved in the manufacturing of their products and how it affects their intended price point by including/taking away/modifying components and features. 

I'm, honestly not sure what is trying to be proved here, I'm happy to be moving on with you.


----------



## chinmokutak

I wonder if we should be concerned that there hasn't been any reviews of this unit. It's supposed to come out next month...


----------



## WCW

@ ProjectionHead
Now that you’ve had this for a while have you had an opportunity to calibrate it, shoot anymore videos? I’m sure there are lots of folks that would like to see what this puppy can do.


----------



## Frank714

Troy LaMont said:


> 2 blue and one red, they advertise as 2 (red and blue) but it's actually 3 in use that's why this UST projector doesn't need a color wheel.



https://www.quora.com/What-color-does-blue-and-red-make


Scratching my head trying to understand how to get green from mixing blue and red, but apparently that somehow works with the P1. 


Interesting that the LG will also be using the larger 0.66" DMD, so that's another one next to Acer and Vivitek.


----------



## Troy LaMont

Frank714 said:


> https://www.quora.com/What-color-does-blue-and-red-make
> 
> 
> Scratching my head trying to understand how to get green from mixing blue and red, but apparently that somehow works with the P1.
> 
> 
> Interesting that the LG will also be using the larger 0.66" DMD, so that's another one next to Acer and Vivitek.


LOL they don't mix the blue and red *laser* to make green, the additional blue laser is ran through a yellow phosphor to make green (blue + yellow=green), same on the P1, but a color wheel AND a yellow phosphor is used.


----------



## Chapla1n

chinmokutak said:


> Do people recommend buying media stand first or screen first?



I think people recommend measuring first! 


I have a nice blank wall that I'll eventually paint once I have a new 4k projector, but I needed a new media stand as I've just moved, and all my kit's on the floor


----------



## ProjectionHead

WCW said:


> @ ProjectionHead
> Now that you’ve had this for a while have you had an opportunity to calibrate it, shoot anymore videos? I’m sure there are lots of folks that would like to see what this puppy can do.


I haven't had it this whole time, we had a couple of hours to play with it while Optoma was out our offices. We are not allowed to provide certain details or publish more in depth content until next week, such as some side-by-side against the LG HU85LA, so stay tuned!


----------



## ProjectionHead

Frank714 said:


> Strange, considering Optoma's HQ is in Taiwan, I would have rather expected them to have a special pick-up discount for Taiwanese customers.
> 
> Somehow I can't shake the suspicion that the upcoming DLP manufacturer transition from the smaller 0.47" DMD to the better 0.66" DMD (eg. Acer, Vivitek, LG UST) has an impact on price and market introduction.
> 
> 
> Kraine receives the LG UST tomorrow for testing, the Vivitek UST will probably arrive at the end of year but if both of these feature the 0.66" DMD they will make the P1 inevitably look "old" if it's using the slightly inferior 0.47" DMD.
> 
> 
> Another hint is the slight confusion regarding 3D support. While no problem für the 0.47" DMD, the 0.66" DMD wasn't designed for 3D but Acer claims it or Texas Instruments has solved the problem.
> 
> 
> Assuming the $ 2.999 price tag made the round based on plans to use the 0.47" DMD, then the use of the 0.66" DMD aboard the P1 would definitely - IMHO - justify a price increase. Just my two cents.


I think everyone is going to be surprised with how well the P1 stacks up against the HU85LA considering the price disparity. I'll be allowed to share more details and some photos next week after the "official" announcement from Optoma regarding pricing, finalized specs, etc


----------



## ProjectionHead

chinmokutak said:


> I wonder if we should be concerned that there hasn't been any reviews of this unit. It's supposed to come out next month...


There still aren't any final productions units that have been circulating yet so you shouldn't expect to see reputable sources reviewing the P1 until they have a final production unit in their hands. The unit I got to play with was not a final release, but we did get to do a little shoot out against the HU85LA and I look forward to being allowed to share those images and what we found with y'all next week.


----------



## Gae80uk

@ProjectionHead I hope so or they will loose 80% of potential buyers


----------



## Frank714

ProjectionHead said:


> I'll be allowed to share more details and some photos next week after the "official" announcement from Optoma regarding pricing, finalized specs, etc



I guess that means next Friday, September 6, because that's when the IFA in Berlin starts and where Optoma competitor LG Electronics will probably unveil its UST front projector.


----------



## solal-

ProjectionHead said:


> I think everyone is going to be surprised with how well the P1 stacks up against the HU85LA considering the price disparity. I'll be allowed to share more details and some photos next week after the "official" announcement from Optoma regarding pricing, finalized specs, etc


 @ProjectionHead do you know the distance from the bottom of the projector to the bottom of screen, when using it with a 100" or 120" screen ? 



Thank you


----------



## Frank714

And another conspiracy theory why it takes Optoma so long with the P1:












Perhaps they are trying to figure out, how on Earth Xiaomi managed to achieve a native DLP contrast with the 0.47" DMD between 2500:1 to 2.700:1...


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...n-4k-resolution-launched-47.html#post58491314


----------



## g4s

solal- said:


> @ProjectionHead do you know the distance from the bottom of the projector to the bottom of screen, when using it with a 100" or 120" screen ?
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you


It's 11" for a 100" screen and 14" for a 120".


----------



## ProjectionHead

solal- said:


> @ProjectionHead do you know the distance from the bottom of the projector to the bottom of screen, when using it with a 100" or 120" screen ?


I've attached a chart that was originally posted here


----------



## solal-

Thank you


----------



## Frank714

Checked the user manual of the LG HU85LA, couldn't find any hint for a possible 3D support so it's up to Optoma to (hopefully) deliver.


----------



## solal-

The LG HU85LA didn't support 3D because it use the 0.66 chips not the 0.47


----------



## kthejoker20

chinmokutak said:


> great!


you move your pc mouse and you will notice the delay of the most moving on the screen.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Frank714

solal- said:


> The LG HU85LA didn't support 3D because it use the 0.66 chips not the 0.47



But the new Acer models use the 0.66" DMD *and* support 3D, so it appears there has been some progress.


----------



## TimHuey

The 120" limitation is workable at 16x9 for me probably not for many others, but the 3000 company reported lumens concerns me. First that is usually optimistic and second it drops drastically at calibration. However with UST projectors sitting much closer to the ALR screens 3000 may equal 5000 as in the standard throw projectors like the Beng LK990. So hopefully we end up with the same fl values at the screen with the Standard Throw projectors.


----------



## bix26

Frank714 said:


> But the new Acer models use the 0.66" DMD *and* support 3D, so it appears there has been some progress.




I’m guessing here, but I think TI must have created a new control module for the .66 DMD. 3D needs to be baked in to avoid artifacts that would be caused by software latency.


----------



## Troy LaMont

Frank714 said:


> And another conspiracy theory why it takes Optoma so long with the P1.
> 
> Perhaps they are trying to figure out, how on Earth Xiaomi managed to achieve a native DLP contrast with the 0.47" DMD between 2500:1 to 2.700:1...


Interesting observation, but *they both use the same chipset* 🤨 AND as I've pointed out in another post earlier, this is the ONLY UST projector that I'm aware of that will implement Dynamic Contrast, i.e. laser pulse based contrast enhanced (like a dynamic iris on bulb projectors). They have this Dynamic Contrast on the UHZ65 front laser projector and the contrast on that has been measured upwards of 18,000:1!!!!! 😯

Guranteed this will be better than the Xiaomi in contrast! At worst, it will be the same but you'll get the benefit of better color management for a far superior image.

Xiaomi has a long way to go to beat Optoma at the projector game.

Cheers.


----------



## bix26

Troy LaMont said:


> Interesting observation, but *they both use the same chipset*  AND as I've pointed out in another post earlier, this is the ONLY UST projector that I'm aware of that will implement Dynamic Contrast, i.e. laser pulse based contrast enhanced (like a dynamic iris on bulb projectors). They have this Dynamic Contrast on the UHZ65 front laser projector and the contrast on that has been measured upwards of 18,000:1!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Guranteed this will be better than the Xiaomi in contrast! At worst, it will be the same but you'll get the benefit of better color management for a far superior image.
> 
> 
> 
> Xiaomi has a long way to go to beat Optoma at the projector game.
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers.




Not so sure about that myself. Xiaomi uses the ALPD 3.0 laser engine which is a dual laser configuration. Optoma is using a single laser design. Optoma is a Taiwanese company. Taiwan is a much smaller country with a smaller pool of experienced engineers. Xiaomi is Chinese. China is much like Japan in the late 70’s/early 80’s. Japan was at that time synonymous with cheap low quality products. A few years later Japan’s industry was producing much higher quality and less expensive products than its American counterparts. It was truly embarrassing for American auto and electronics manufacturers. I feel like we’re repeating history here. More westernized companies are spending too much on marketing their overpriced low quality products rather than R&D. At the same time they typically pay their CEO’s absurd salaries. On average American CEO’s make 300x the average wage. In Japan a CEO makes only about 80x the average wage. And in China I’m guessing it’s even less. The western business model just can’t compete imo. These companies are banking on marketing and exploiting consumer preconceptions rather than compete. I’m hoping the Optoma manages to equal the Xiaomi in both quality and price. However, I’d honestly be a little surprised if they do.


----------



## chinmokutak

bix26 said:


> Troy LaMont said:
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting observation, but *they both use the same chipset*  AND as I've pointed out in another post earlier, this is the ONLY UST projector that I'm aware of that will implement Dynamic Contrast, i.e. laser pulse based contrast enhanced (like a dynamic iris on bulb projectors). They have this Dynamic Contrast on the UHZ65 front laser projector and the contrast on that has been measured upwards of 18,000:1!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Guranteed this will be better than the Xiaomi in contrast! At worst, it will be the same but you'll get the benefit of better color management for a far superior image.
> 
> 
> 
> Xiaomi has a long way to go to beat Optoma at the projector game.
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so sure about that myself. Xiaomi uses the ALPD 3.0 laser engine which is a dual laser configuration. Optoma is using a single laser design. Optoma is a Taiwanese company. Taiwan is a much smaller country with a smaller pool of experienced engineers. Xiaomi is Chinese. China is much like Japan in the late 70â€™️s/early 80â€™️s. Japan was at that time synonymous with cheap low quality products. A few years later Japanâ€™️s industry was producing much higher quality and less expensive products than its American counterparts. It was truly embarrassing for American auto and electronics manufacturers. I feel like weâ€™️re repeating history here. More westernized companies are spending too much on marketing their overpriced low quality products rather than R&D. At the same time they typically pay their CEOâ€™️s absurd salaries. On average American CEOâ€™️s make 300x the average wage. In Japan a CEO makes only about 80x the average wage. And in China Iâ€™️m guessing itâ€™️s even less. The western business model just canâ€™️t compete imo. These companies are banking on marketing and exploiting consumer preconceptions rather than compete. Iâ€™️m hoping the Optoma manages to equal the Xiaomi in both quality and price. However, Iâ€™️d honestly be a little surprised if they do.
Click to expand...

I didn't realize I would be reading about japan VS America stuff on this thread.. It has nothing to do...


----------



## Troy LaMont

bix26 said:


> Not so sure about that myself. Xiaomi uses the ALPD 3.0 laser engine which is a dual laser configuration. Optoma is using a single laser design. Optoma is a Taiwanese company. Taiwan is a much smaller country with a smaller pool of experienced engineers. Xiaomi is Chinese. China is much like Japan in the late 70’s/early 80’s. Japan was at that time synonymous with cheap low quality products. A few years later Japan’s industry was producing much higher quality and less expensive products than its American counterparts. It was truly embarrassing for American auto and electronics manufacturers. I feel like we’re repeating history here. More westernized companies are spending too much on marketing their overpriced low quality products rather than R&D. At the same time they typically pay their CEO’s absurd salaries. On average American CEO’s make 300x the average wage. In Japan a CEO makes only about 80x the average wage. And in China I’m guessing it’s even less. The western business model just can’t compete imo. These companies are banking on marketing and exploiting consumer preconceptions rather than compete. I’m hoping the Optoma manages to equal the Xiaomi in both quality and price. However, I’d honestly be a little surprised if they do.


Please stop. 😕


----------



## Gae80uk

Yeah guys, looks like this thread is going off topic all over the place.

Plz let's stay focused on the P1 and about all the exciting new content available after IFA event. Hopefully the price will be fair


----------



## drdoom2k

diggumsmax said:


> I just want the price to be announced. I can understand a 15 percent price increase due to this ridiculous trade war and new tarrifs starting today but if the price gets jacked up much more than that then I'm going to just wait and see what next year has to offer. I also have serious doubts about it shipping mid September at this point as well.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Ditto - weren't all of these UST been announced at last years IFA anyhow? Lol...might just go with a 77" OLED and be done with it. Let's see, fingers crossed.


----------



## Frank714

Knolly said:


> So I can't help but notice ProjectorScreen updated their page with a $3300 price tag. Is the cat out of the bag on final price? It looks like this needs to be moved to the other forum.



...and merged with the UHZ65UST (Euro model designation)


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...sd-msrp/3048508-optoma-uhz65ust-4k-laser.html


----------



## Gae80uk

Why don't you make a jump to the IFA event in Berlin this week for us mate, might get to see it live in action and get the final word on pricing if lucky 



Frank714 said:


> ...and merged with the UHZ65UST (Euro model designation)
> 
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...sd-msrp/3048508-optoma-uhz65ust-4k-laser.html


----------



## Frank714

Gae80uk said:


> Why don't you make a jump to the IFA event in Berlin this week for us mate, might get to see it live in action and get the final word on pricing if lucky



As a matter of fact I walk to the gate of the facility I'm working in, board the shuttle bus to the fairgrounds across the street and be there all Monday (Sept. 9). 


BUT Optoma is not present with their own booth this year (same goes for CEDIA AFAIK), just one of their larger German dealers, but I'm certainly going to pay him a visit. Actually, I'd anticipate an Optoma press release this Friday, coinciding with the start of IFA and LG's presentation of their UST projector.


----------



## Gae80uk

Good man, keep us posted!



Frank714 said:


> As a matter of fact I walk to the gate of the facility I'm working in, board the shuttle bus to the fairgrounds across the street and be there all Monday (Sept. 9).
> 
> 
> BUT Optoma is not present with their own booth this year (same goes for CEDIA AFAIK), just one of their larger German dealers, but I'm certainly going to pay him a visit. Actually, I'd anticipate an Optoma press release this Friday, coinciding with the start of IFA and LG's presentation of their UST projector.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Knolly said:


> So I can't help but notice ProjectorScreen updated their page with a $3300 price tag. Is the cat out of the bag on final price? It looks like this needs to be moved to the other forum.


Yes, this is the official price.


----------



## ProjectionHead

g4s said:


> I saw that too... Bummer


 ... at least it only went up 10%. I've had a chance to do a side by side with the LG HU85LA and think the Optoma (even with the extra $300) is a steal at the MSRP $3,300, especially if you plan on using the integrated audio.

I will post some side by side pics shortly


----------



## ProjectionHead

diggumsmax said:


> I just want the price to be announced. I can understand a 15 percent price increase due to this ridiculous trade war and new tarrifs starting today but if the price gets jacked up much more than that then I'm going to just wait and see what next year has to offer. I also have serious doubts about it shipping mid September at this point as well.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Fortunately the P1 price was only was increased 10% to MSRP $3,299. It's absolutely worth every penny....


----------



## Gae80uk

Thanks! Any video head-to-head would be even better! 



ProjectionHead said:


> ... at least it only went up 10%. I've had a chance to do a side by side with the LG HU85LA and think the Optoma (even with the extra $300) is a steal at the $3,300, especially if you plan on using the integrated audio.
> 
> I will post some side by side pics shortly


----------



## imhotep6

Do we know release date?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ProjectionHead

Gae80uk said:


> Thanks! Any video head-to-head would be even better!


I wont have a chance to do any video until we receive our actual production unit of the P1, so that won't be for a couple of weeks.


----------



## ProjectionHead

imhotep6 said:


> Do we know release date?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Expected to start shipping in less than 2 weeks; on/around 9/15/19


----------



## g4s

The spec sheet says 26db. At one meter? Doesn't say at what distance. Bet it's quieter than most of it's UST competition though and hopefully no coil whine.


----------



## drdoom2k

copperfield74 said:


> That sounds really sweet.
> Now I'm interested how much the European version will be.
> I hope it will be around 3300€.
> It would be a shame if they would raise the price to much for us in Europe.
> My screen is waiting at home and would like to be installed. So Optoma make a good opening price in Germany.


Input lag of 55ms quoted in the spec sheet - that's okay, eliminates the Xiaomi basically and I think if the price here in the UK is 'alright', then we are on to a winner here!


----------



## ProjectionHead

g4s said:


> The spec sheet says 26db. At one meter? Doesn't say at what distance. Bet it's quieter than most of it's UST competition though and hopefully no coil whine.


It was VERY quiet when not using the integrated sound at all. When pushing any audio through it you will not hear the fan at all.


----------



## Floorit72

Will there be improved clarity and or detail watching 4k SDR over a regular 1080p bluray since the CinemaX P1 is using Single 0.47” 4K UHD ECD DMD by Texas Instruments (I think is 1080p). I think this is upscaling 1080p to 4k. Would 4k hdr be night and day improvement over SDR?

Any feedback would be appreciated. Thank you


----------



## g4s

klas said:


> "Brightness of 300 Lumens"... I will pass 🙂


That's a misprint, it's advertised as 3000.


----------



## Johnny nz

klas said:


> "Brightness of 300 Lumens"... I will pass 🙂


read again buddy, its says 3000


----------



## Mike Lang

Thread moved per price update.


----------



## JX Liu

P1 was not found in the product list of the Optoma Taiwan website. Oddly, on the Optoma China website, there are not only P1 but also P1 Pro in the product list. The dynamic contrast ratio of P1 Pro is 1000000:1 (TBD), and the dynamic contrast ratio of P1 is 10000:1 (TBD). Except for this difference, other technical indicators are exactly the same (the brightness is 3000 ISO lumens). 
The price of P1 in China is about 28,000 CNY (3940 USD). If you look carefully, you can find less than 28,000 CNY.
However, now I am confused: Because China Optoma has P1 and P1 Pro, I don’t know if the P1 of China’s Optoma is the same as the P1 that has not been listed in Taiwan’s Optoma.


----------



## bix26

Mike Lang said:


> Thread moved per price update.




Is that official? Their official press release still says $3,000

https://www.optoma.com/us/optoma-un...n-ultra-short-throw-and-integrated-soundbar/#


----------



## TimHuey

Yeah everything I've read says $2999. Maybe you have to pay extra if you want to be one of the first to own. Either way, I'm a bit leary of the 3000 lumens as well. Passing also unless these 3000 lumens turn out to be different than a standard throw FP lumens. When someone measures the calibrated image fl at the screen we will know more. But I suspect that the image brightness isn't equal to Front Projectors when using lumens as a measurement. I would like to have around 80 fl at the screen for HDR10 and to combat black level deficiencies by using a low gain black or grey screen.


----------



## g4s

bix26 said:


> Is that official? Their official press release still says $3,000
> 
> https://www.optoma.com/us/optoma-un...n-ultra-short-throw-and-integrated-soundbar/#


That press release is from January. The expected street price was $2999. "available in late Q2 for an expected street price of $2,999"


----------



## solal-

JX Liu said:


> P1 was not found in the product list of the Optoma Taiwan website. Oddly, on the Optoma China website, there are not only P1 but also P1 Pro in the product list. The dynamic contrast ratio of P1 Pro is 1000000:1 (TBD), and the dynamic contrast ratio of P1 is 10000:1 (TBD). Except for this difference, other technical indicators are exactly the same (the brightness is 3000 ISO lumens).
> The price of P1 in China is about 28,000 CNY (3940 USD). If you look carefully, you can find less than 28,000 CNY.
> However, now I am confused: Because China Optoma has P1 and P1 Pro, I don’t know if the P1 of China’s Optoma is the same as the P1 that has not been listed in Taiwan’s Optoma.



First time I heard of P1 Pro, this is the link : 



https://www.optoma.com.cn/product/p1/


https://www.optoma.com.cn/product/p1-pro/


would like to know which version will be released in Europe. 



Concerning taiwain it's already released you can find more here https://www.optoma.com/tw/p1-campaign/ and in optoma facebook page.

What is fun is the US page list https://www.optoma.com/us/cinemax-p1/ , list a contrast ratio of 1,500,000:1


----------



## Frank714

solal- said:


> Concerning taiwain it's already released you can find more here https://www.optoma.com/tw/p1-campaign/ and in optoma facebook page.



Interesting alternate suggestions for use of the P1, projecting a clock to the wall or decorative paintings...


----------



## Gae80uk

I would rather stick to ProjectionScreen than other retailers since they are hands on the pj with updates, pics, tests, best screen and comparisons.

Looking forward to new juicy content guys!


----------



## ProjectionHead

TimHuey said:


> Yeah everything I've read says $2999. Maybe you have to pay extra if you want to be one of the first to own. Either way, I'm a bit leary of the 3000 lumens as well. Passing also unless these 3000 lumens turn out to be different than a standard throw FP lumens. When someone measures the calibrated image fl at the screen we will know more. But I suspect that the image brightness isn't equal to Front Projectors when using lumens as a measurement. I would like to have around 80 fl at the screen for HDR10 and to combat black level deficiencies by using a low gain black or grey screen.


It was expected to be released at MSRP $2,999 when announced months ago. That was before the introduction of the new tariffs by the USA on Chinese goods. It will be $3,299 here in the USA; you are not paying a premium for getting it early.


----------



## ProjectionHead

bix26 said:


> Is that official? Their official press release still says $3,000
> 
> https://www.optoma.com/us/optoma-un...n-ultra-short-throw-and-integrated-soundbar/#


They have not produced an updated press release, the one you are referencing is quite old and before the introduction of the new tariffs by the USA on Chinese goods. The official price is now MSRP $3,299 and that is what all dealers authorized to carry the item are/will be selling it for here in the USA.


----------



## ProjectionHead

klas said:


> Optoma is Taiwanese company. In either case we should see it on Amazon US shortly
> 
> 
> Or preorder from bh
> 
> https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1496594-REG/optoma_technology_cinemax_p1_xpr_4k.html


The projector is manufactured in China, hence the tariffs. Even a US based company that is manufacturing items in China will pay the increased tariffs. Tariffs are based on country of origin of the item, not headquarters of the company.

You should expect to see it on Amazon shortly, as well as on the B&H link you provided. You can also purchase it at the other website referenced in many of the other comments, from a small, family owned company who is contributing to the discussion here on AVS....


----------



## ProjectionHead

solal- said:


> First time I heard of P1 Pro, this is the link :
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.optoma.com.cn/product/p1/
> 
> 
> https://www.optoma.com.cn/product/p1-pro/
> 
> 
> would like to know which version will be released in Europe.
> 
> 
> 
> Concerning taiwain it's already released you can find more here https://www.optoma.com/tw/p1-campaign/ and in optoma facebook page.
> 
> What is fun is the US page list https://www.optoma.com/us/cinemax-p1/ , list a contrast ratio of 1,500,000:1


There is chatter of a "pro" unit for release here in the USA as well and I have been participating in the conversation with Optoma. Some ideas tossed around:
- No integrated audio (reduce cost and size for those who intend to use their own audio system)
- Use of integrated audio as center channel
- Better contrast ratio
- Brighter
- Shorter throw distance from screen


Don't hold your breath on seeing the "pro" unit anytime soon, it could easily be another year away.


... any suggestions y'all would like me to pass along? Perhaps I'll setup a survey after compiling feedback here.


----------



## ProjectionHead

ler0y said:


> Hi all, just found this on Amazon.ca, these are Canadian dollar prices, $3999 preorder. Note that the regular price they are listing is $6000 Cdn.
> 
> https://www.amazon.ca/Optoma-Cinema...rds=optoma+p1&qid=1567545773&s=gateway&sr=8-1


You can ignore the $6,000 CDN. 

Optoma LOVES to publish a "MSRP" price that is almost twice of what the actual selling price is. You should not expect to see it for more than the $3,999 CDN to my knowledge


----------



## solal-

ProjectionHead said:


> There is chatter of a "pro" unit for release here in the USA as well and I have been participating in the conversation with Optoma. Some ideas tossed around:
> - No integrated audio (reduce cost and size for those who intend to use their own audio system)
> - Use of integrated audio as center channel
> - Better contrast ratio
> - Brighter
> - Shorter throw distance from screen
> 
> 
> Don't hold your breath on seeing the "pro" unit anytime soon, it could easily be another year away.
> 
> 
> ... any suggestions y'all would like me to pass along? Perhaps I'll setup a survey after compiling feedback here.



I would like very much a version without integrated audio or with integrated audio as center channel, as the project is large I think I will put my center channel under it, or I will have to put it next to it but it will not be centered  I think must people buying a projector over 3000$ already have an amp and a 5.1 audio system and they will not use the sound bar.


Also continuing to improve the input lag (this will be a gamer version rather than a pro version  will bring lot of new client, as it's important for many gamer, also having some video enhancement in game mode with low input will be great (but that's sure that will be difficult). 



For the moment as the projector is not yet released and I didn't test it. I can't say more.


Also, I see on optoma taiwan facebook page that optoma make an event where they use the P1 to project some images of art (https://www.facebook.com/events/1352512808229049/ & https://www.facebook.com/hashtag/xanadumotion?source=feed_text&epa=HASHTAG&__tn__=*NK-R ), it seems this event will be also held in Paris, as it's 5 min for where I live I will try to go to it to see the projector but it's certainly a private event.


----------



## Gae80uk

Totally agree, probably 80-90% of customers who are considering buying a projector already have a good home theatre sound system...which should lead brands like Optoma to think smart. A P1 version without an integrated soundbar with a competitive price around $2-2.300 woukd be a killer!


----------



## Frank714

*Notice:* Just received an AVS warning for supposedly mentioning a street price and not the MSRP for the Optoma P1. 


"2.999 US $" was the original, assumed MSRP, so I guess when this thread shifted into the $3,000+ section with the new official MSRP of 3.299 US $, my post was automatically identified as irregular and a possible violation?


----------



## drdoom2k

Gae80uk said:


> Totally agree, probably 80-90% of customers who are considering buying a projector already have a good home theatre sound system...which should lead brands like Optoma to think smart. A P1 version without an integrated soundbar with a competitive price around $2-2.300 woukd be a killer!


Agreed, but way lower margins vs. putting in some 5w tweeters in there and calling it a soundbar!


----------



## oni222

ProjectionHead said:


> There is chatter of a "pro" unit for release here in the USA as well and I have been participating in the conversation with Optoma. Some ideas tossed around:
> - No integrated audio (reduce cost and size for those who intend to use their own audio system)
> - Use of integrated audio as center channel
> - Better contrast ratio
> - Brighter
> - Shorter throw distance from screen
> 
> 
> Don't hold your breath on seeing the "pro" unit anytime soon, it could easily be another year away.
> 
> 
> ... any suggestions y'all would like me to pass along? Perhaps I'll setup a survey after compiling feedback here.


If only they had a lower latency mode on the pro or HDMI 2.1 then I would gladly wait for it.


----------



## chinmokutak

drdoom2k said:


> Agreed, but way lower margins vs. putting in some 5w tweeters in there and calling it a soundbar!


I agree in general, but I hope I don't see a slightly better version of this with the same price range a few months after this gets relesed..


----------



## drdoom2k

chinmokutak said:


> I agree in general, but I hope I don't see a slightly better version of this with the same price range a few months after this gets relesed..


To be honest, I would actually bet on that happening: both that P1 alongside the LG one have been rumored for like 18 months, I believe? They should have actually been released at the beginning of this year, not the end of it during a time where HDMI 2.1 was actually undefined, VRR and all this sort of higher frequency stuff mostly catch-phrases...feels like these products are already outdated without even being released.

But let's see, still very keen on checking out the P1!


----------



## Knolly

ProjectionHead said:


> You can ignore the $6,000 CDN.
> 
> Optoma LOVES to publish a "MSRP" price that is almost twice of what the actual selling price is. You should not expect to see it for more than the $3,999 CDN to my knowledge


Ah, I was wondering why the Amazon.com listing (which has since been removed) had the MSRP of $4999 already discounted to under $4000.


----------



## ProjectionHead

I have some good news and some bad news.

I images attached of a side by side with the Optoma P1 and the LG HU85LA (the good news). The bad news is that the HDMI splitter would not send an HDR signal to both units at the same time so these images are of SDR only. I had been hesitant to share these images since they are in SDR only, but many people have prompted me to do so anyway.

We had some issues with the LG receiving/displaying the HDR signal from our UHD player, which we were ale to fix by power cycling projector and/or player.

We had no such issues with the P1.

We were never able to get both units to display the HDR signal at the same time, so we will be doing this test again in the future once we receive our actual P1 (not just for a couple of hours to play with).

We spent a little time cycling through the various pre-defined picture modes on the two units to try and find a combination that looked as close as possible from both units at the same time.

We had both units at the same time for only a couple of hours, so the content we generated is far from robust or professional. We did however get to spend some time playing with each unit individually.

For all side-by-side images, the LG is on the left, Optoma on the right. We tested this on a Grandview UHD130 surface (100" diagonal screen).

The general consensus (with SDR) is that the LG had superior black levels, which is evident in some of the attached images, specifically the one of Ryan Reynolds face and in the letterbox on the bottom. The Optoma was regarded has having a sharper image, noticeable in the wrinkles on the forehead and in the facial pores.

Again, this was a very "thrown together" comparison and was not in HDR and will be done in a better manner once we receive the production P1 unit to keep.

Also, the audio on the LG is laughable when compared to the P1. It was described as "all mids" while the P1 had a nice full range and substantially more volume. I certainly would not rely on the LGHU85LA's integrated speaker at all, whereas I could see people using the P1 audio.

These photos were taken with a lowly iPhone 6s. The image from the HU85LA is slightly larger than the P1 due to the variances in throw distance and image offset.

I have some other images of the P1 by itself on a couple different screen surfaces (HDR enabled) and in different lighting conditions, but they are watermarked with a company logo so I do not believe I can post them here (mods feel free to correct me if I am wrong).

By no means does this mean there is a better image from the P1 than the HU85LA especially since it did not account for HDR. It does demonstrate that for $3,299 MSRP, the P1 (in SDR) is a great value.

...stay tuned for some more pics soon


----------



## ler0y

ProjectionHead said:


> You can ignore the $6,000 CDN.
> 
> Optoma LOVES to publish a "MSRP" price that is almost twice of what the actual selling price is. You should not expect to see it for more than the $3,999 CDN to my knowledge


Thanks for that news. That really made my day as I was afraid that I would not be able to fulfill my projector dream this year.


----------



## solal-

ProjectionHead said:


> I have some good news and some bad news.
> 
> I images attached of a side by side with the Optoma P1 and the LG HU85LA (the good news). The bad news is that the HDMI splitter would not send an HDR signal to both units at the same time so these images are of SDR only. I had been hesitant to share these images since they are in SDR only, but many people have prompted me to do so anyway.
> 
> We had some issues with the LG receiving/displaying the HDR signal from our UHD player, which we were ale to fix by power cycling projector and/or player.
> 
> We had no such issues with the P1.
> 
> We were never able to get both units to display the HDR signal at the same time, so we will be doing this test again in the future once we receive our actual P1 (not just for a couple of hours to play with).
> 
> We spent a little time cycling through the various pre-defined picture modes on the two units to try and find a combination that looked as close as possible from both units at the same time.
> 
> We had both units at the same time for only a couple of hours, so the content we generated is far from robust or professional. We did however get to spend some time playing with each unit individually.
> 
> For all side-by-side images, the LG is on the left, Optoma on the right. We tested this on a Grandview UHD130 surface (100" diagonal screen).
> 
> The general consensus (with SDR) is that the LG had superior black levels, which is evident in some of the attached images, specifically the one of Ryan Reynolds face and in the letterbox on the bottom. The Optoma was regarded has having a sharper image, noticeable in the wrinkles on the forehead and in the facial pores.
> 
> Again, this was a very "thrown together" comparison and was not in HDR and will be done in a better manner once we receive the production P1 unit to keep.
> 
> Also, the audio on the LG is laughable when compared to the P1. It was described as "all mids" while the P1 had a nice full range and substantially more volume. I certainly would not rely on the LGHU85LA's integrated speaker at all, whereas I could see people using the P1 audio.
> 
> These photos were taken with a lowly iPhone 6s. The image from the HU85LA is slightly larger than the P1 due to the variances in throw distance and image offset.
> 
> I have some other images of the P1 by itself on a couple different screen surfaces (HDR enabled) and in different lighting conditions, but they are watermarked with a company logo so I do not believe I can post them here (mods feel free to correct me if I am wrong).
> 
> By no means does this mean there is a better image from the P1 than the HU85LA especially since it did not account for HDR. It does demonstrate that for $3,299 MSRP, the P1 (in SDR) is a great value.
> 
> ...stay tuned for some more pics soon


Does any of the projector is calibrated ?


----------



## chinmokutak

ProjectionHead said:


> I have some good news and some bad news.
> 
> I images attached of a side by side with the Optoma P1 and the LG HU85LA (the good news). The bad news is that the HDMI splitter would not send an HDR signal to both units at the same time so these images are of SDR only. I had been hesitant to share these images since they are in SDR only, but many people have prompted me to do so anyway.
> 
> We had some issues with the LG receiving/displaying the HDR signal from our UHD player, which we were ale to fix by power cycling projector and/or player.
> 
> We had no such issues with the P1.
> 
> We were never able to get both units to display the HDR signal at the same time, so we will be doing this test again in the future once we receive our actual P1 (not just for a couple of hours to play with).
> 
> We spent a little time cycling through the various pre-defined picture modes on the two units to try and find a combination that looked as close as possible from both units at the same time.
> 
> We had both units at the same time for only a couple of hours, so the content we generated is far from robust or professional. We did however get to spend some time playing with each unit individually.
> 
> For all side-by-side images, the LG is on the left, Optoma on the right. We tested this on a Grandview UHD130 surface (100" diagonal screen).
> 
> The general consensus (with SDR) is that the LG had superior black levels, which is evident in some of the attached images, specifically the one of Ryan Reynolds face and in the letterbox on the bottom. The Optoma was regarded has having a sharper image, noticeable in the wrinkles on the forehead and in the facial pores.
> 
> Again, this was a very "thrown together" comparison and was not in HDR and will be done in a better manner once we receive the production P1 unit to keep.
> 
> Also, the audio on the LG is laughable when compared to the P1. It was described as "all mids" while the P1 had a nice full range and substantially more volume. I certainly would not rely on the LGHU85LA's integrated speaker at all, whereas I could see people using the P1 audio.
> 
> These photos were taken with a lowly iPhone 6s. The image from the HU85LA is slightly larger than the P1 due to the variances in throw distance and image offset.
> 
> I have some other images of the P1 by itself on a couple different screen surfaces (HDR enabled) and in different lighting conditions, but they are watermarked with a company logo so I do not believe I can post them here (mods feel free to correct me if I am wrong).
> 
> By no means does this mean there is a better image from the P1 than the HU85LA especially since it did not account for HDR. It does demonstrate that for $3,299 MSRP, the P1 (in SDR) is a great value.
> 
> ...stay tuned for some more pics soon


You may not have been able to do side to side comparison, but were you able to compare LG vs. P1 for 4K HDR? without taking sound into consideration, how does P1 compare?


----------



## ProjectionHead

solal- said:


> Does any of the projector is calibrated ?


We did not calibrate either unit; we only tweaked some of the settings slightly and relied mostly on the predefined picture modes due to lack of time.


----------



## ProjectionHead

chinmokutak said:


> You may not have been able to do side to side comparison, but were you able to compare LG vs. P1 for 4K HDR? without taking sound into consideration, how does P1 compare?


The P1 was not a final production unit, so I am hesitant to use it as the basis for the comparison. We will have a production unit of each shortly and will provide further feedback at that time.

... however, everyone was very impressed with the P1 image in HDR as well as SDR, ESPECIALLY considering the price point.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Gae80uk said:


> Totally agree, probably 80-90% of customers who are considering buying a projector already have a good home theatre sound system...which should lead brands like Optoma to think smart. A P1 version without an integrated soundbar with a competitive price around $2-2.300 woukd be a killer!


I don't believe they are looking to make a less expensive version, but a "pro" version with enhanced specs at a higher price point.


----------



## ERuiz

ProjectionHead said:


> I don't believe they are looking to make a less expensive version, but a "pro" version with enhanced specs at a higher price point.




Exactly, this makes complete sense. A PRO version would never be lower than their non-PRO counterpart. I can see them getting rid of the audio, and ramping up sought after features such as better input lag, brighter image, better contrast, etc; obviously at a higher price point.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## TTBear

Brian, thank you for taking the time and effort to obtain and share this information. Much appreciated!!


----------



## dropzone7

I'm looking at 75" TV's in this price range. Just moved into a new house with very tall ceilings in the den and uncovered windows to the left side of the TV wall. It can get fairly bright in there during daytime hours. I'm guessing this UST projector is not going to be a good fit for my application as much as I would like it to be. Especially if I have to spend another $1-2K for a compatible screen. Sounds like it would be great for dark room viewing which I prefer but it would be difficult to sell the wife on this as a TV replacement for casual viewing.


----------



## ProjectionHead

dropzone7 said:


> I'm looking at 75" TV's in this price range. Just moved into a new house with very tall ceilings in the den and uncovered windows to the left side of the TV wall. It can get fairly bright in there during daytime hours. I'm guessing this UST projector is not going to be a good fit for my application as much as I would like it to be. Especially if I have to spend another $1-2K for a compatible screen. Sounds like it would be great for dark room viewing which I prefer but it would be difficult to sell the wife on this as a TV replacement for casual viewing.


If you want to use in daylight, you will need the special ALR UST screen. Frankly, if you want to use any home cinema projector in daylight you would need an ALR screen.


----------



## dropzone7

ProjectionHead said:


> If you want to use in daylight, you will need the special ALR UST screen. Frankly, if you want to use any home cinema projector in daylight you would need an ALR screen.


Yeah, I get that. I have owned many projectors, usually in a bat cave environment. I guess I was just hoping that the high lumen output and being less than two feet from the wall/screen would mean an acceptable image in ambient light but I know that is a lot to ask of a projector. I will just save projection for the home theater.


----------



## Frank714

ProjectionHead said:


> The general consensus (with SDR) is that the LG had superior black levels, which is evident in some of the attached images, specifically the one of Ryan Reynolds face and in the letterbox on the bottom. The Optoma was regarded has having a sharper image, noticeable in the wrinkles on the forehead and in the facial pores.



Theoretically, that shouldn't be surprising because the LG is using the larger (and twice the cost) 0.66" XPR DMD in contrast to the 0.47" XPR DMD of the Optoma P1.


The 0.66" XPR DMD supposedly offers twice as much better _native_ contrast than the 0.47" DMD, on the other hand I read claims here at the AVS that the XPR pixel-shifting of the 0.47" DMD yields a slightly better 4K result than the 0.66" DMD.


However I'm a bit confused. Kraine tested the LG after the Xiaomi (0.47" DMD) and the _dynamic_ contrast of the Xiaomi was twice (!) as high than the one of the LG.
Thus I'd hope that the Optoma does _dynamic_ contrast at least as good as the Xiaomi.


----------



## JX Liu

Who knows DLP's ECD technology? I did not find any information about ECD technology.
A promotional material for Optoma P1 mentions that the chip technology of P1 is DLP ECD, and the chip technology of Xgimi's LUNE 4K (not LUNE 4K Pro), MiJa 4K, WEMAX A300 is DLP Pico.
According to this promotional material, DLP ECD is much brighter and more contrasting than DLP Pico in terms of technical parameters. In terms of hardware costs, DLP ECD is more than DLP Pico about $800USD.
P1 uses a 0.47 DMD, and TI has only two chip models: DLP470TE and DLP470TP. Is the "E" of the model mantissa ECD, and the "P" is Pico?
If so, I wonder if the cost of ECD hardware described by Optoma is $800 higher than Pico. Is it accurate?


----------



## qoopy

ProjectionHead said:


> ...The Optoma was regarded has having a sharper image, noticeable in the wrinkles on the forehead and in the facial pores....


Greetings ProjectionHead, thanks for sharing your thoughts.

Your observation that the .47" P1 produces a sharper image is interesting. Would you be able to kindly post some screenshots of alternate pixel test patterns and see how well they can resolve single pixel structure?
Many thanks and best regards,


----------



## Frank714

https://www.optoma.com.cn/product/p1-pro/


Check out Optoma China's image comparison between 4K and FHD (1080p)...


I wouldn't buy any projector with such a terrible 1080p resolution... 


Not sure, but it seems that the Optoma USA P1 product page now contains additional images: https://www.optoma.com/us/product/cinemax-p1/


Strange that Optoma's UK website still doesn't feature or mention the P1.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Gae80uk said:


> Totally agree, probably 80-90% of customers who are considering buying a projector already have a good home theatre sound system...which should lead brands like Optoma to think smart. A P1 version without an integrated soundbar with a competitive price around $2-2.300 woukd be a killer!


This trend of integrated audio didn't start with Optoma; Hisense released their units (which they refer to as a "Laser TV" a while ago. I believe these types of units were developed as TV alternatives not necessarily home theater projectors and in countries like China living quarters are smaller and this was a solution to get that big picture into areas where there isn't an option for a dedicated theater room and throw distances may be prohibitive. This is IMHO likely one of the reasons the LG is white instead of black as it was designed to go in a living room and not a dedicated, dark theater room.

I personally thought that here in the USA, people wouldn't be so interested in the integrated audio and would bypass it for their own dedicated audio...apparently I underestimated how much people here actually want to use that audio from the projector.

While the audio on the P1 was surprisingly good, it absolutely lacked the wide sound stage you would want with a 120" image. For people considering it a "portable" projector I can see why the audio is attractive.


----------



## ProjectionHead

qoopy said:


> Greetings ProjectionHead, thanks for sharing your thoughts.
> 
> Your observation that the .47" P1 produces a sharper image is interesting. Would you be able to kindly post some screenshots of alternate pixel test patterns and see how well they can resolve single pixel structure?
> Many thanks and best regards,


I still don't have a production unit yet and don't expect to have it until around the middle of the month. I plan on doing some more in depth reviewing once I do.


----------



## klas

Frank714 said:


> https://www.optoma.com.cn/product/p1-pro/
> 
> 
> Check out Optoma China's image comparison between 4K and FHD (1080p)...
> 
> 
> I wouldn't buy any projector with such a terrible 1080p resolution...


According to Optoma we have suffered enough of their blurry 1080p projectors and it's time to make a jump to glorious 4k. I am totally sold.


----------



## Frank714

^ LOL 


Kraine just provided me with a heads-up, i.e. the CinemaX P1 is still marketed in Europe as the "UHZ65UST" and France expects its arrival in October for an MSRP of 3.999 €.

3,300 € + 20% (French) VAT = 3,960 € incl. VAT.


----------



## solal-

Frank714 said:


> ^ LOL
> 
> 
> Kraine just provided me with a heads-up, i.e. the CinemaX P1 is still marketed in Europe as the "UHZ65UST" and France expects its arrival in October for an MSRP of 3.999 €.
> 
> 
> (I can't help but wonder if the Brexit anticipation has anything to do with that? AFAIK Optoma's European headquarters are still in the UK, so that projectors received there might fall under new tariff restrictions between the UK and the EU).


I hope at this price it will be better than the xiaomi, because it's currently the only one to have a decent input lag (at least as announced by the constructor). In any case we always pay electronic product a higher price in Europe and particularly in France.


----------



## Frank714

Probably the indicated price includes 20% French VAT opposite to the announced US price (+ ? VAT).


3,300 € + 20% VAT = 3,960 € incl. VAT.


----------



## Tuan

Frank714 said:


> Strange that Optoma's UK website still doesn't feature or mention the P1.


And you never will. They are calling it the UHZ65UST.


----------



## Frank714

Tuan said:


> And you never will. They are calling it the UHZ65UST.



Sorry but even the UHZ65UST is still not mentioned there, I just checked: https://www.optoma.co.uk/projectorapplication/Home_Cinema


And the latest press release is still just the ALR screen: https://www.optoma.co.uk/press-branding/press-releases/1158


----------



## qoopy

ProjectionHead said:


> I still don't have a production unit yet and don't expect to have it until around the middle of the month. I plan on doing some more in depth reviewing once I do.


 Thanks ProjectionHead, looking forward to your review.


----------



## copperfield74

Frank714 said:


> Probably the indicated price includes 20% French VAT opposite to the announced US price (+ ? VAT).
> 
> 
> 3,300 â‚¬ + 20% VAT = 3,960 â‚¬ incl. VAT.


I think that it's too expensive compared to the US price. 
3300USD equal around 3000Euro, with VAT 19% (here in Germany) it should cost 3570Euro. Why do they charge 400€ more?


----------



## maverick87r

Amazon link went up

https://www.amazon.com/Optoma-CinemaX-P1-Projector-Integrated/dp/B07VDP29TX/ 

Already pushed out shipping to October 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## g4s

maverick87r said:


> Amazon link went up
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Optoma-CinemaX-P1-Projector-Integrated/dp/B07VDP29TX/
> 
> Already pushed out shipping to October
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I think Amazon "Usually ships" estimates are unreliable and probably automated.


----------



## Chapla1n

chinmokutak said:


> i agree in general, but i hope i don't see a slightly better version of this with the same price range a few months after this gets relesed..



ces 2020!


----------



## ProjectionHead

g4s said:


> I think Amazon "Usually ships" estimates are unreliable and probably automated.


That may be when they actually get inventory, disseminate through fulfillment network and start shipping. Fortunately there are others that are still on track for mid-September....


----------



## chinmokutak

Chapla1n said:


> ces 2020!


that's exactly what I'm worried about. It doesn't matter when those devices will be shipped, I will always think I should have waited


----------



## solal-

What afraid me is that optoma is already planing to make a version with a better contrast, this mean we will certainly be disappointed by this one.


----------



## Floorit72

Optoma usa press release states the units are available for preorder and starting to ship next week.

https://www.optoma.com/us/optomas-award-winning-cinemax-p1-all-in-one-smart-home-entertainment-system-available-for-pre-order/


----------



## Mike Garrett

solal- said:


> I hope at this price it will be better than the xiaomi, because it's currently the only one to have a decent input lag (at least as announced by the constructor). In any case we always pay electronic product a higher price in Europe and particularly in France.


That should tell you something about the accuracy of Xiaomi's specs, because all of these XPR DLP are built off of the same core platform. In other words impossible for one to have a significant difference in lag or native contrast for that matter.


----------



## JX Liu

Mike Garrett said:


> That should tell you something about the accuracy of Xiaomi's specs, because all of these XPR DLP are built off of the same core platform. In other words impossible for one to have a significant difference in lag or native contrast for that matter.


It feels that the actual value of P1 does not match it's price - the price is too high!


----------



## chinmokutak

solal- said:


> What afraid me is that optoma is already planing to make a version with a better contrast, this mean we will certainly be disappointed by this one.


Exactly, they could easily make this inferior product just so that they can release new product during ces.


----------



## ProjectionHead

chinmokutak said:


> that's exactly what I'm worried about. It doesn't matter when those devices will be shipped, I will always think I should have waited


I would not expect to see Optoma release a new UST Laser 4K projector at CES, however with many electronics purchases I too often feel that I should have waited as new technology is always right around the corner.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Floorit72 said:


> Optoma usa press release states the units are available for preorder and starting to ship next week.
> 
> https://www.optoma.com/us/optomas-a...entertainment-system-available-for-pre-order/


There are several retailers accepting pre-orders. Some of the smaller specialty places are expecting to start shipping to end users on/around September 15th, other larger big-box/internet behemoth type places appear to be saying mid October.


----------



## ProjectionHead

JX Liu said:


> It feels that the actual value of P1 does not match it's price - the price is too high!


The P1 IMHO is priced too low for what it is. Based on how it performs and compared to what else is out there, they easily could have been charging $3,999+

Optoma priced this guy to move.


----------



## ProjectionHead

chinmokutak said:


> Exactly, they could easily make this inferior product just so that they can release new product during ces.


Don't expect to see a better version of this from Optoma at CES. It's only a couple of months away and Optoma is beginning their marketing blitz on the P1 as we speak.


----------



## klas

ProjectionHead said:


> The P1 IMHO is priced too low for what it is. Based on how it performs and compared to what else is out there, they easily could have been charging $3,999+
> 
> Optoma priced this guy to move.


No way. Optoma guys are not as stupid as at LG, price this higher and they will loose bunch of sales, if anything 2.5k - 3k would be a sweet point IMO, but I am pretty sure we'll get there maybe even on Black Friday.


----------



## bix26

klas said:


> No way. Optoma guys are not as stupid as at LG, price this higher and they will loose bunch of sales, if anything 2.5k - 3k would be a sweet point IMO, but I am pretty sure we'll get there maybe even on Black Friday.




I agree, the Xiaomi UST offerings have been pretty solid with higher brightness/contrast and sharpness than even the LG HU85L. Their not perfect, you sacrifice some things such as customer support, only partially English menus, judder at less than 60hz and slightly louder noise operation. But at less than $2,500 it’s priced accordingly. I personally wouldn’t pay over a $1,000 more for these trade offs. As long as the P1 doesn’t have any glaring deficiencies, this is the perfect option for me. I’m really excited to see an in depth review and measurements.


----------



## Gae80uk

No new content/info so far from IFA event in Berlin? :/


----------



## Tyler Duncan

I called ProjectorScreens and gave them the OK to charge my card for the P1 at the new price (required since Optoma raised it from the expected). I've watch 10's if not 100's of videos of the Xiaomi's, Wemax, Vava, etc trying to determine which one to buy. Some of them have amazing pictures, even from a crappy youtube video taken in another country. I held out to see what the P1 official specs would be simply because every time I wanted to order the Wemax a300 or Vava, I couldn't do it out of worry for what if something went wrong? I'm not saying saying they all break, but I did see a few videos on coil whine or overheating, etc and wondered where I would be if I need to RMA one. Shipping cost of the product back to China would instantly kill any savings over the Optoma/LG. Optoma had the best price/spec/reputation I could find so I was happy to pull the trigger even at the $3,299. I would have paid $210 in tax from Amazon anyways, so tax free from NJ company was basically the same.


----------



## TimHuey

Tyler Duncan said:


> I called ProjectorScreens and gave them the OK to charge my card for the P1 at the new price (required since Optoma raised it from the expected). I've watch 10's if not 100's of videos of the Xiaomi's, Wemax, Vava, etc trying to determine which one to buy. Some of them have amazing pictures, even from a crappy youtube video taken in another country. I held out to see what the P1 official specs would be simply because every time I wanted to order the Wemax a300 or Vava, I couldn't do it out of worry for what if something went wrong? I'm not saying saying they all break, but I did see a few videos on coil whine or overheating, etc and wondered where I would be if I need to RMA one. Shipping cost of the product back to China would instantly kill any savings over the Optoma/LG. Optoma had the best price/spec/reputation I could find so I was happy to pull the trigger even at the $3,299. I would have paid $210 in tax from Amazon anyways, so tax free from NJ company was basically the same.


Wooohooo!!!! Lucky dog!


----------



## diggumsmax

I'm starting to wonder why Optoma even did any built in apps. Why in the world would they limit them to 480p? I was going to use my Xbox one anyways but this is a bit disappointing. My mid tier Vizio has 4k apps. I'm also questioning the decision for USB 2.0. I have some pretty high bitrate 4k/hdr content and I'm unsure if this thing will be able to handle it.

https://thenextweb.com/plugged/2019...rojector-with-a-sleek-design-and-solid-price/

With that said, I didn't pre-order this things for the bells and whistles like apps and smart assistants. I would just think at this price point, and trying to sell it as in all in one device, only sd video streaming apps is a huge mistake.

From link above:
The projector runs on Android, and you can access Netflix, Hulu and Prime Video through the Otoma Marketplace. This isn’t Android TV, however,  and the apps are limited to 480p.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## colinmatheny11

My needle to moving towards the newly announced Epson LS 500. Similar price (2,999) point without all the extras such as built in apps, soundbar etc. 

Hopefully the contrast is better than the LS100.

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk


----------



## Gae80uk

@tyler good boy! Did you get a screen as well? ALR? Hope to follow your purchase asap 

Post your review/pics/video once you receive it mate!


----------



## g4s

My 92" Mitsubishi is dead. I've got my preorder in for the Optoma P1. I'll be able to get this 46" LCD off my coffee table soon!


----------



## TTBear

g4s said:


> My 92" Mitsubishi is dead. I've got my preorder in for the Optoma P1. I'll be able to get this 46" LCD off my coffee table soon!


Hahaha - this is the position we are in, too. Our 90" Sharp TV (inherited from the previous owners of the condo we bought) choked, so we are using a 40" Sony on our coffee table. 

Even if the 90" TV hadn't died, we still would have gotten rid of it for an UST. We are going to use a retractable screen, so it's nice not to have to have a 90+ inch behemoth splattered all over the wall, all of the time!


----------



## klas

TTBear said:


> Hahaha - this is the position we are in, too. Our 90" Sharp TV (inherited from the previous owners of the condo we bought) choked, so we are using a 40" Sony on our coffee table.
> 
> Even if the 90" TV hadn't died, we still would have gotten rid of it for an UST. We are going to use a retractable screen, so it's nice not to have to have a 90+ inch behemoth splattered all over the wall, all of the time!


You are making a mistake with retractable screen, unless of course you enjoy watching curvy lines. UST is only for fixed screens or a perfectly flat wall.


----------



## Tyler Duncan

Gae80uk said:


> @tyler good boy! Did you get a screen as well? ALR? Hope to follow your purchase asap
> 
> Post your review/pics/video once you receive it mate!


I'm not much of a reviewer but I'll do my best. I'll certainly post pictures and whether or not I feel I got my money's worth. I have a XY 120" alr screen waiting to be put up closer to projector arrival and I think I'm going to pair it with one of the Klipsch home theater sets from Adorama.


----------



## TTBear

klas said:


> You are making a mistake with retractable screen, unless of course you enjoy watching curvy lines. UST is only for fixed screens or a perfectly flat wall.


Oh god, no. I think you are a little out of date. Look up Screen Innovations Solo Pro with their ST (short throw) material.

I have in my possession a Vividstorm floor riser screen in 120" size. The screen is tab-tensioned, and perfectly flat. 

There are NUMEROUS other options that also produce a flat surface. 

Gone are the days where you have to compromise with a massive, permanent behemoth sitting on your wall.


----------



## klas

TTBear said:


> klas said:
> 
> 
> 
> You are making a mistake with retractable screen, unless of course you enjoy watching curvy lines. UST is only for fixed screens or a perfectly flat wall.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh god, no. I think you are a little out of date. Look up Screen Innovations Solo Pro with their ST (short throw) material.
> 
> I have in my possession a Vividstorm floor riser screen in 120" size. The screen is tab-tensioned, and perfectly flat.
> 
> There are NUMEROUS other options that also produce a flat surface.
> 
> Gone are the days where you have to compromise with a massive, permanent behemoth sitting on your wall.
Click to expand...

There is a reason why only fixed screens are the recommended for UST projector but looks like you never seen UST with tab tensioned screen. Good luck with that.


----------



## Gae80uk

That's exactly the screen I have in mind as well but I am open to new options if better cost/performing.






Tyler Duncan said:


> Gae80uk said:
> 
> 
> 
> @tyler good boy! Did you get a screen as well? ALR? Hope to follow your purchase asap /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> Post your review/pics/video once you receive it mate!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not much of a reviewer but I'll do my best. I'll certainly post pictures and whether or not I feel I got my money's worth. I have a XY 120" alr screen waiting to be put up closer to projector arrival and I think I'm going to pair it with one of the Klipsch home theater sets from Adorama.
Click to expand...


----------



## TTBear

klas said:


> There is a reason why only fixed screens are the recommended for UST projector but looks like you never seen UST with tab tensioned screen. Good luck with that.


Thank you for your concern, but I respectfully disagree. I HAVE seen numerous UST projectors with tab-tensioned screens, including the screen that I have in my possession. I also respect the recommendations and empirical evidence of a company such as Screen Innovations over yours. I am very much a perfectionist with things like this, and the results I have auditioned are very much acceptable. 

I'll take the opinion of ProjectorScreen.com over yours, any day:






But, thank you for your opinion. Which, in the end, is simply that. An opinion.


Perhaps we could return to the topic at hand, the P1?


----------



## klas

TTBear said:


> Thank you for your concern, but I respectfully disagree. I HAVE seen numerous UST projectors with tab-tensioned screens, including the screen that I have in my possession. I also respect the recommendations and empirical evidence of a company such as Screen Innovations over yours. I am very much a perfectionist with things like this, and the results I have auditioned are very much acceptable.
> 
> I'll take the opinion of ProjectorScreen.com over yours, any day:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oA8Tj9K3NmY
> 
> But, thank you for your opinion. Which, in the end, is simply that. An opinion.
> 
> 
> Perhaps we could return to the topic at hand, the P1?


Hey, it's your money if want to waste 2k on a tab tansioned screen they are trying to sell you. I have owned UST for almost a year and already compared myself all the options with my UST by using regular pull down, tab tansioned and fixed. Bottom line fixed screen was the best way to go to get the perfect picture. If you don't know why read up on the nature of ultra short throw projection at extreme angle.


----------



## TTBear

klas said:


> Hey, it's your money if want to waste 2k on a tab tansioned screen they are trying to sell you. I have owned UST for almost a year and already compared myself all the options with my UST by using regular pull down, tab tansioned and fixed. Bottom line fixed screen was the best way to go to get the perfect picture. If you don't know why read up on the nature of ultra short throw projection at extreme angle.


OK. You obviously know best, so I shall defer to your sagacity. Thanks.


----------



## Gae80uk

Hey guys,

just got this link from Optoma Taiwan with some extra P1 features (Google translate...thanks!)

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1xXmIrVF8o36OvJ6PMSZ_oconL1SEZ1WY?usp=sharing

Enjoy!


----------



## TTBear

Gae80uk said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> just got this link from Optoma Taiwan with some extra P1 features (Google translate...thanks!)
> 
> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1xXmIrVF8o36OvJ6PMSZ_oconL1SEZ1WY?usp=sharing
> 
> Enjoy!


Fantastic find! Thanks for posting that up!!


----------



## ERuiz

TTBear said:


> OK. You obviously know best, so I shall defer to your sagacity. Thanks.




LOL Hey buddy, it is best to just ignore those folks. They just want to troll.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## chinmokutak

Gae80uk said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> just got this link from Optoma Taiwan with some extra P1 features (Google translate...thanks!)
> 
> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1xXmIrVF8o36OvJ6PMSZ_oconL1SEZ1WY?usp=sharing
> 
> Enjoy!


Are there any new info that we didn't know about??


----------



## TimHuey

ERuiz said:


> TTBear said:
> 
> 
> 
> OK. You obviously know best, so I shall defer to your sagacity. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LOL Hey buddy, it is best to just ignore those folks. They just want to troll.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


Yeah that was painful.


----------



## bix26

colinmatheny11 said:


> My needle to moving towards the newly announced Epson LS 500. Similar price (2,999) point without all the extras such as built in apps, soundbar etc.
> 
> Hopefully the contrast is better than the LS100.
> 
> Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk




I got excited when I heard about the epson too. Then I found out it’s a .29:1 throw ratio. My current projector is .23:1 and the front of the pj sits about two and a half feet from my 120” screen. I’d probably have to put the epson about 3’ from the wall and have my 18” credenza over a foot away from the wall.


----------



## bix26

klas said:


> You are making a mistake with retractable screen, unless of course you enjoy watching curvy lines. UST is only for fixed screens or a perfectly flat wall.




Not necessarily, if it’s tab tensioned it shouldn’t be an issue. Also it would make adjusting the height of the screen much easier.

Oops I just saw that this has already had many responses. Didn’t mean to beat a dead horse.


----------



## klas

bix26 said:


> Not necessarily, if it’s tab tensioned it shouldn’t be an issue. Also it would make adjusting the height of the screen much easier.
> 
> Oops I just saw that this has already had many responses. Didn’t mean to beat a dead horse.


As I much as I would love motorized screen, I have tried two tab tensioned screens from Amazon Elite Screens Spectrum Tab-Tension 2 and the other was Vividstorm, they still had ripples while $200 fixed screen was perfect. Perhaps those 2k tab tensioned screens are better but I don't want to spend that much to find that out. So far cheap fixed screen worked excellent with Xiaomi and I will stick with it when I upgrade to P1.


----------



## bix26

klas said:


> As I much as I would love motorized screen, I have tried two tab tensioned screens from Amazon Elite Screens Spectrum Tab-Tension 2 and the other was Vividstorm, they still had ripples while $200 fixed screen was perfect. Perhaps those 2k tab tensioned screens are better but I don't want to spend that much to find that out. So far cheap fixed screen worked excellent with Xiaomi and I will stick with it when I upgrade to P1.




I can see that, it’s good you’ve shared that. That way people who need a roll away can have realistic expectations. Still, a roll away is a viable option just an expensive one.


----------



## copperfield74

It's so hard right now. My 100" ALR screen is still packed because the Optoma is still not available in Germany.


I WANT IT NOW!!!!!


----------



## chinmokutak

BTW, how dows the new Epson EH-LS50 compare to this? looks like it's similarly priced?


----------



## ProjectionHead

klas said:


> I have tried two tab tensioned screens from Amazon Elite Screens Spectrum Tab-Tension 2 and the other was Vividstorm, they still had ripples while $200 fixed screen was perfect.


.. that's your problem right there. Both of those are very inexpensive for a reason. SI's Short Throw on the Solo 2 Pro (albeit more expensive) will not have those problems.
You get what you pay for....

And yes, a fixed frame screen will cost you less than the motorized equivalent. If cost is your #1 concern over aesthetic (not wanting a large fixed frame screen always exposed) than you will get a larger bang for your buck from a fixed screen.


----------



## klas

ProjectionHead said:


> .. that's your problem right there. Both of those are very inexpensive for a reason. SI's Short Throw on the Solo 2 Pro (albeit more expensive) will not have those problems.
> You get what you pay for....
> 
> And yes, a fixed frame screen will cost you less than the motorized equivalent. If cost is your #1 concern over aesthetic (not wanting a large fixed frame screen always exposed) than you will get a larger bang for your buck from a fixed screen.


So far I have not seen any tab tensioned in any price range without some sort of ripple. I have not see any non marketing videos of Solo 2 Pro, but judging by previous Solo Pro it will be the same:


----------



## Kdub69

Hi there,


Just wondering if anyone has a budget option for screens. Looking at something from amazon.ca since I have a dark theater room with very little light. Should I get a non alr screen for now or use my dark wall and save for a xyz alr screen? Thanks inadvance as people are saying I can get a $200 screen and its decent?


----------



## g4s

Getting things ready. I usually build my stands myself to make the center of the image on the display about 48" off the floor. The one for the P1 is going to be really short. About 32"x30"x4". More of a small platform really. Enough room for the P1, it's throw distance and my center channel speaker. I'll cut the outside corners off 45 degrees. Paint it flat black.
I'll need some MDF, 2x4, screws, glue, taping compound, paint and beer.


----------



## TimHuey

So CEDIA starts the 10th? Is that when we will start seeing some calibrated reviews and concrete info on the new projector lot? P1 lg85 jvc laser etc.?


----------



## Gae80uk

This new XY floor rising ALR screen looks quite ripple-free to me 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQi9oCi8nj4&feature=push-fr&attr_tag=SlZ03BwyY0H85CEJ:6



klas said:


> So far I have not seen any tab tensioned in any price range without some sort of ripple. I have not see any non marketing videos of Solo 2 Pro, but judging by previous Solo Pro it will be the same: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piUjIHvCNXE


----------



## Mike Garrett

Gae80uk said:


> This new XY floor rising ALR screen looks quite ripple-free to me
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQi9oCi8nj4&feature=push-fr&attr_tag=SlZ03BwyY0H85CEJ:6


Look again 35 seconds in. Look at lower left corner. Quite a bit of ripple.


----------



## TTBear

Mike Garrett said:


> Gae80uk said:
> 
> 
> 
> This new XY floor rising ALR screen looks quite ripple-free to me
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQi9oCi8nj4&feature=push-fr&attr_tag=SlZ03BwyY0H85CEJ:6
> 
> 
> 
> Look again 35 seconds in. Look at lower left corner. Quite a bit of ripple.
Click to expand...

That is very normal for floor risers. When they are on their way up, they look terrible. Once they reach the top of the travel, they retract a few inches and auto adjust tension. If you keep watching the vid, once it is fully opened, it is fine. Mine is like that, too - once it is finished moving, it is REALLY flat. I have two floor risers - they are both ripple-free - and I am the biggest stickler around for little details like that.


----------



## Mike Garrett

TTBear said:


> That is very normal for floor risers. When they are on their way up, they look terrible. Once they reach the top of the travel, they retract a few inches and auto adjust tension. If you keep watching the vid, once it is fully opened, it is fine. Mine is like that, too - once it is finished moving, it is REALLY flat. I have two floor risers - they are both ripple-free - and I am the biggest stickler around for little details like that.


At 40 seconds in, the screen is at the fully raised and tensioned limit. Still a tiny bit of ripple in lower left corner. Also what you see will be worse when actually looking at the screen. In other words, a video will not show as much as actually viewing in person. Great that you say you have no ripple, but I doubt that is the case for all of them.


----------



## Mike Garrett

TTBear said:


> Oh, absolutely. I agree - for every video I have seen with a great surface, I have also seen one with ripples. With this video, at approximately 1:15, those ripples look like they are gone, or at least much improved? I’m not sure that the video at :40 keeps playing past the point when the screen retracts a couple inches to fully settle? I’m not even sure that the XY screen has this feature?
> Yep, I am VERY glad mine are okay.
> I am pleasantly surprised - it seems that pretty much all of the Vividstorm videos I have seen, have very flat surfaces after doing the retraction of a couple inches, after reaching full height. It is that drop of a couple inches that really gets rid of any residual ripples on my screens.


Thanks for pointing out the 1:15 image. Lots of ripple shown there. Huge section of lower left corner shows ripple and can even see it a tiny bit in lower right corner. Very hard to get rid of all the ripple, even with a tab tensioned screen.


----------



## Gae80uk

Sorry guys, didn't want to ignite a debate about screens again.

Let's focus on P1: 
actually I have noticed that the EU version has better specs (3.200 lumens, 2.000.000:1 contrast) and bigger price (£3.999 tbc) so I have asked Optoma EU clarifications about it. Link below:
https://www.projectors.co.uk/optoma...MI6bfmr9rD5AIVkEPTCh2_UAs0EAMYASAAEgLXe_D_BwE

Maybe the EU is the "Pro version" popped up on the Chinese website..?
Will keep you posted with their reply


----------



## TTBear

Gae80uk said:


> Sorry guys, didn't want to ignite a debate about screens again.
> 
> Let's focus on P1:
> actually I have noticed that the EU version has better specs (3.200 lumens, 2.000.000:1 contrast) and bigger price (£3.999 tbc) so I have asked Optoma EU clarifications about it. Link below:
> https://www.projectors.co.uk/optoma...MI6bfmr9rD5AIVkEPTCh2_UAs0EAMYASAAEgLXe_D_BwE
> 
> Maybe the EU is the "Pro version" popped up on the Chinese website..?
> Will keep you posted with their reply



I agree - I deleted a message of mine, originally posted in response to Mike. Apologies, Mike, I was viewing on my phone, and in retrospect, there are ripples there, especially at 1:15!!


It would be interesting to know whether the EU version truly has better specs, all right. 


Waiting with bated breath, as I recently switched my deposit from the LG HU85LA to the Optoma P1....


----------



## CopyRon

TTBear said:


> I agree - I deleted a message of mine, originally posted in response to Mike. Apologies, Mike, I was viewing on my phone, and in retrospect, there are ripples there, especially at 1:15!!
> 
> 
> It would be interesting to know whether the EU version truly has better specs, all right.
> 
> 
> Waiting with bated breath, as I recently switched my deposit from the LG HU85LA to the Optoma P1....



And still supports 3D


----------



## copperfield74

Gae80uk said:


> Sorry guys, didn't want to ignite a debate about screens again.
> 
> Let's focus on P1:
> actually I have noticed that the EU version has better specs (3.200 lumens, 2.000.000:1 contrast) and bigger price (£3.999 tbc) so I have asked Optoma EU clarifications about it. Link below:
> https://www.projectors.co.uk/optoma...MI6bfmr9rD5AIVkEPTCh2_UAs0EAMYASAAEgLXe_D_BwE
> 
> Maybe the EU is the "Pro version" popped up on the Chinese website..?
> Will keep you posted with their reply


WTF??? 1500USD more expensive than the US model? This is a joke, right? Why on earth should we pay 1500USD more than our american friends? Just because of 200 lumens?
If the german one is the same price I'll pass on this one. That's nearly a Xiaomi Mijia 4K more expensive. Why would they do that?


----------



## Gae80uk

@copperfield74 I know mate, it's a scandal! It's actually $1600 more for a slight more pumped unit...not worth it! And they blame different warranty and taxes fares...right!

Hope Optoma EU gets this right and align with U.S. price or it's just more convenient to fly over U.S. grab one and come back!


----------



## copperfield74

Gae80uk said:


> @copperfield74 I know mate, it's a scandal! It's actually $1600 more for a slight more pumped unit...not worth it! And they blame different warranty and taxes fares...right!
> 
> Hope Optoma EU gets this right and align with U.S. price or it's just more convenient to fly over U.S. grab one and come back! /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif


 @Gae80uk so they have to raise the price because of the warranty??? Well, off they don't believe in their product why should I? The warranty in Germany is 2 years, and they say that it should be good for around 20000 hours (around 7-8 years depending on usage). If they're not lying it should be no risk for them if they'd believe in their product. 
I'll accompany you on the trip to US. 😉


----------



## Brajesh

Video posted by ProjectorPeople... all these clips popping up have me impatient for a real, in-depth review video or write-up...


----------



## bix26

Brajesh said:


> Video posted by ProjectorPeople... all these clips popping up have me impatient for a real, in-depth review video or write-up...
> 
> 
> 
> https://youtu.be/vyv-eqjY1A8




Has me a little concerned. Usually, if a company imposes a gag order on reviews prior to launch it’s not a good sign. And if you still don’t see a review for weeks or months post launch you pretty much know there are serious issues. The newest offerings from JVC and BenQ come to mind. Both had major QC issues initially and nobody reviewed them until at least a month after they had been on sale. This was incredibly odd to me considering they were some of the most anticipated projectors in years. I would much rather them delay, than let early adopters pay to beta test. I truly hope my hunch Is wrong on this.


----------



## klas

Brajesh said:


> Video posted by ProjectorPeople... all these clips popping up have me impatient for a real, in-depth review video or write-up...
> 
> https://youtu.be/vyv-eqjY1A8


I really want to hear how truly quiet it is... Looking great!


----------



## Gae80uk

Yeah, I feel you mate...picture quality looks very good compared to any UST pj in this price range, even with the LG one.

I believe we will start seeing many other test/reviews next week onwards when it is released



Brajesh said:


> Video posted by ProjectorPeople... all these clips popping up have me impatient for a real, in-depth review video or write-up...
> 
> https://youtu.be/vyv-eqjY1A8


----------



## qoopy

oni222 said:


> The LG UST Laser projector shown in CES for less than $3000 has two lasers ...


I think the price is 3k per laser.


----------



## Frank714

TimHuey said:


> So CEDIA starts the 10th? Is that when we will start seeing some calibrated reviews and concrete info on the new projector lot? P1 lg85 jvc laser etc.?



Last time I checked Optoma wasn't on CEDIA's exhibitor list.


Went yesterday to the IFA booth which popped up with the search word "Optoma" but that was a dead end. 


The Hisense UST laser projector presentation with the special ALR screen (which is also where the sound comes from) was very impressive at IFA (probably this year's highlight) but IIRC it's rather expensive at 15,000 $.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Gae80uk said:


> This new XY floor rising ALR screen looks quite ripple-free to me
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQi9oCi8nj4&feature=push-fr&attr_tag=SlZ03BwyY0H85CEJ:6


Elite will be releasing their 100" floor rising Kestrel UST ALR which will be available via a select ProjectorScreen reseller in mid October and then rolled out to other vendors in December along with the 120" size.

The 100" will sell for $3,999 MSRP; not sure about the 120" yet.

I will post more details in the Screens sub once available.

I expect it to be a pretty big step up from Vividstorm in terms of performance, flatness and construction.


----------



## ProjectionHead

bix26 said:


> Has me a little concerned. Usually, if a company imposes a gag order on reviews prior to launch it’s not a good sign. And if you still don’t see a review for weeks or months post launch you pretty much know there are serious issues. The newest offerings from JVC and BenQ come to mind. Both had major QC issues initially and nobody reviewed them until at least a month after they had been on sale. This was incredibly odd to me considering they were some of the most anticipated projectors in years. I would much rather them delay, than let early adopters pay to beta test. I truly hope my hunch Is wrong on this.


In regards to the Optoma; they have what they call an "embargo" on releasing of information until a date that they determine. In this case it was 9/3. You aren't seeing any in depth reviews of the P1 as the only units that were circulating were pre-production units.
Once they start shipping (expected next week), final versions will be in peoples hands and then you should expect to start seeing the more robust reviews.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Kdub69 said:


> Hi there,
> 
> 
> Just wondering if anyone has a budget option for screens. Looking at something from amazon.ca since I have a dark theater room with very little light. Should I get a non alr screen for now or use my dark wall and save for a xyz alr screen? Thanks inadvance as people are saying I can get a $200 screen and its decent?


It may be decent for brightness, but it wont resolve 4k pixels due to the surface texture.
In a dark room, we tested the P1 on the Grandview UHD130 surface. It is the least expensive, legit 4k surface and is also ISF certified.
The image looked fantastic, head to head against the SI Short Throw surface.... until we turned on the lights. with the lights on the white UHD130 surface was (as expected) totally washed out, while the SI short throw surface still looked great.

Long story short, in a dark theater room a traditional white screen will look great. As a TV replacement in a moderate/highly lit room, go for a UST ALR.


----------



## solal-

Frank714 said:


> Last time I checked Optoma wasn't on CEDIA's exhibitor list.
> 
> 
> Went yesterday to the IFA booth which popped up with the search word "Optoma" but that was a dead end.
> 
> 
> The Hisense UST laser projector presentation with the special ALR screen (which is also where the sound comes from) was very impressive at IFA (probably this year's highlight) but IIRC it's rather expensive at 15,000 $.



Did you see the new epson LS500 UST on their booth ? Would like to know how it perform.


----------



## Frank714

Difficult to say because it was difficult to see. Hisense used an ALR screen, Epson did not and therefore the image looked somewhat washed out. Better to wait for tests in an optimal environment.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Frank714 said:


> The Hisense UST laser projector presentation with the special ALR screen (which is also where the sound comes from) was very impressive at IFA (probably this year's highlight) but IIRC it's rather expensive at 15,000 $.


I'm real interested in how the sound is coming from the screen on this model. I'm familiar with their current USA models with the integrated audio int he projector and wireless sub but nothign that has audio coming from the screen. I gotta give me contact at Hisense a call.....


----------



## klas

ProjectionHead said:


> Elite will be releasing their 100" floor rising Kestrel UST ALR which will be available via a select ProjectorScreen reseller in mid October and then rolled out to other vendors in December along with the 120" size.
> 
> The 100" will sell for $3,999 MSRP; not sure about the 120" yet.
> 
> I will post more details in the Screens sub once available.
> 
> I expect it to be a pretty big step up from Vividstorm in terms of performance, flatness and construction.


Ah that's great, I doubt there will be any takers to drop $4k on a 100" screen... when P1 is even less then that


----------



## TTBear

klas said:


> Ah that's great, I doubt there will be any takers to drop $4k on a 100" screen... when P1 is even less then that


There may not be many, but I think there will be a few? How many people buy Ferraris? 

I think the attraction for this screen will be where having a permanent 100" screen is not desireable, or feasible. For example, we are using a floor riser in front of a window (regular drop-down screen won't fit between wooden beams in our warehouse condo), so here, this screen would be perfect. There is no way we could mount a screen that size, without blocking the window. 

There definitely is that element of a law of diminishing returns - it'll be expensive, no doubt, but there will be takers, for sure. 

I'm in, Brian. Thanks for the update!


----------



## ProjectionHead

klas said:


> Ah that's great, I doubt there will be any takers to drop $4k on a 100" screen... when P1 is even less then that


Maybe not for the P1, but there are more premium (and expensive) USTs available and will also be in the future. It's also about $1600 less expensive than the SI SOlo Pro 2 w/ Short Throw surface (wall/ceiling mounted electric).
I can only imagine that there would be a bundle deal available on this screen and the P1, HU85LA, etc to bring that cost below $3,999......


----------



## Tuan

Frank714 said:


> Last time I checked Optoma wasn't on CEDIA's exhibitor list.
> 
> 
> Went yesterday to the IFA booth which popped up with the search word "Optoma" but that was a dead end.
> 
> 
> The Hisense UST laser projector presentation with the special ALR screen (which is also where the sound comes from) was very impressive at IFA (probably this year's highlight) but IIRC it's rather expensive at 15,000 $.


We will have reps at the ADI Global booth. A P1 will be on display there.


----------



## klas

TTBear said:


> There may not be many, but I think there will be a few? How many people buy Ferraris?
> 
> I think the attraction for this screen will be where having a permanent 100" screen is not desireable, or feasible. For example, we are using a floor riser in front of a window (regular drop-down screen won't fit between wooden beams in our warehouse condo), so here, this screen would be perfect. There is no way we could mount a screen that size, without blocking the window.
> 
> There definitely is that element of a law of diminishing returns - it'll be expensive, no doubt, but there will be takers, for sure.
> 
> I'm in, Brian. Thanks for the update!


You are missing the point. Who is shopping for P1 doesn't care for $4k 100" screen. Perhaps try selling this in another thread for $15k projector, that will be your "Ferrari" crowd


----------



## TTBear

klas said:


> You are missing the point. Who is shopping for P1 doesn't care for $4k 100" screen. Perhaps try selling this in another thread for $15k projector, that will be your "Ferrari" crowd


Please. Just stop. 

Why wouldn't you plan ahead? Buy the screen, with the intent of upgrading your projector at some time in the future... and you are completely wrong. I am cross-shopping the P1/HU85LA to pair with this screen, so your assumption (again, assuming that your opinion is omniscient, and all-encompassing....  ) that "who is shopping for P1 doesn't care for $4k 100" screen" is obviously wrong. 

Why wouldn't someone buy the screen initially? It makes sense, as it may well be built-in. Then, if and when one decides that technology has advanced far enough to upgrade your projector, then you are good to go. 

So, please, I shall re-iterate. Just. Stop. Please. Your opinion is just that. You know what they say about opinions..... Please consider that others might have their OWN opinions, that are just as valid as yours. Thanks.


----------



## klas

TTBear said:


> Please. Just stop.
> 
> Why wouldn't you plan ahead? Buy the screen, with the intent of upgrading your projector at some time in the future... and you are completely wrong. I am cross-shopping the P1/HU85LA to pair with this screen, so your assumption (again, assuming that your opinion is omniscient, and all-encompassing....  ) that "who is shopping for P1 doesn't care for $4k 100" screen" is obviously wrong.
> 
> Why wouldn't someone buy the screen initially? It makes sense, as it may well be built-in. Then, if and when one decides that technology has advanced far enough to upgrade your projector, then you are good to go.
> 
> So, please, I shall re-iterate. Just. Stop. Please. Your opinion is just that. You know what they say about opinions..... Please consider that others might have their OWN opinions, that are just as valid as yours. Thanks.


Welcome to the internet, it's full of opinions. Should everyone put IMHO in front of every opinion? 

IMHO 100" screen for $4k is a huge waste of money, motorized or not. 
Also IMHO, $500 fixed screen will be just as awesome with P1.
Also IMHO, you have some serious problems with others opinions about expensive screens.


----------



## bix26

klas said:


> You are missing the point. Who is shopping for P1 doesn't care for $4k 100" screen. Perhaps try selling this in another thread for $15k projector, that will be your "Ferrari" crowd




Thank you for saying what I was thinking. Besides it’s not like where talking about a super car here. One is truly a marvel of engineering and a result of over a 100 years and billions of dollars of engineering. On the other hand it’s essentially a really big picture frame. I would be shocked if they weren’t all coming from the same factory anyway.


----------



## Gae80uk

Guys, if someone wanna spend $200 or $20000 for a screen is up to them.

It's about time to get excited about P1 being released next week so less judgements, more fun!


----------



## TTBear

Gae80uk said:


> Guys, if someone wanna spend $200 or $20000 for a screen is up to them.
> 
> It's about time to get excited about P1 being released next week so less judgements, more fun!


Is there an actual concrete release date? That would be great! I switched my deposit from the P1 to the LG, but I truly think that you cannot lose with either. The deciding factor for me, was that in our situation, the shorter throw of the LG was the deciding factor. 3D and the black colour was almost enough to tip the balance the other way.

Second guessing sucks, haha


----------



## Gae80uk

not the $3k price gap?  

Honestly if the price is not a blocker, I will consider LG for the fantastic OS, native 4K apps, picture quality and blacks...but the P1 looks like a winner in a cost/effective head to head

Let's see!



TTBear said:


> Is there an actual concrete release date? That would be great! I switched my deposit from the P1 to the LG, but I truly think that you cannot lose with either. The deciding factor for me, was that in our situation, the shorter throw of the LG was the deciding factor. 3D and the black colour was almost enough to tip the balance the other way.
> 
> Second guessing sucks, haha


----------



## TTBear

Oh god, yes!! Price was definitely a factor, but for some reason, the pricing I got in Canada was MUCH more favourable!

(Eastporters for the win!! 😄 )

The difference ended up being CDN $2100, which is about five cents US hahaha.

That made the decision much easier. If I had had to choose, with a US$3000 difference, I would have gone with the P1, I am thinking. 

Either way, I am still very curious about how the P1 will shake out. I was thinking there would be more full-on reviews by now?!?




Gae80uk said:


> not the $3k price gap? /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
> 
> Honestly if the price is not a blocker, I will consider LG for the fantastic OS, native 4K apps, picture quality and blacks...but the P1 looks like a winner in a cost/effective head to head
> 
> Let's see!
> 
> 
> 
> TTBear said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is there an actual concrete release date? That would be great! I switched my deposit from the P1 to the LG, but I truly think that you cannot lose with either. The deciding factor for me, was that in our situation, the shorter throw of the LG was the deciding factor. 3D and the black colour was almost enough to tip the balance the other way.
> 
> Second guessing sucks, haha
Click to expand...


----------



## klas

TTBear said:


> Is there an actual concrete release date? That would be great! I switched my deposit from the P1 to the LG, but I truly think that you cannot lose with either. The deciding factor for me, was that in our situation, the shorter throw of the LG was the deciding factor. 3D and the black colour was almost enough to tip the balance the other way.
> 
> Second guessing sucks, haha


Amazon listed preorder to be released on October 1 and they are usually pretty good about it. I will wait until you guys get it though and review it. Hoping it's as quiet as they say it is at 26 db and I can get rid of noisy Xiaomi once and for all


----------



## ProjectionHead

klas said:


> Amazon listed preorder to be released on October 1 and they are usually pretty good about it. I will wait until you guys get it though and review it. Hoping it's as quiet as they say it is at 26 db and I can get rid of noisy Xiaomi once and for all


The P1 will be shipping from more boutique dealers as early as next week.


----------



## Argyle Shepard

Quick question. I know this is basic, but I've never used a UST projector and am truly a newbie to this world. I have had a dedicated theater room for years, but always with the PJ on the other end of the room. I have a fixed screen but it is an odd size, like 112" I believe. I keep reading people either going 100" or 120" for their screens. Are these necessary sizes due to some kind of limitation, or is it as simple as physically moving the projector further back until I can fill a 112" screen. Thanks.


----------



## klas

Argyle Shepard said:


> Quick question. I know this is basic, but I've never used a UST projector and am truly a newbie to this world. I have had a dedicated theater room for years, but always with the PJ on the other end of the room. I have a fixed screen but it is an odd size, like 112" I believe. I keep reading people either going 100" or 120" for their screens. Are these necessary sizes due to some kind of limitation, or is it as simple as physically moving the projector further back until I can fill a 112" screen. Thanks.


You just move a few inches to get the size you need to fit your screen, but you will most likely need to adjust the height of your furniture where you going to place that UST.


----------



## Chapla1n

Argyle Shepard said:


> Quick question. I know this is basic, but I've never used a UST projector and am truly a newbie to this world. I have had a dedicated theater room for years, but always with the PJ on the other end of the room. I have a fixed screen but it is an odd size, like 112" I believe. I keep reading people either going 100" or 120" for their screens. Are these necessary sizes due to some kind of limitation, or is it as simple as physically moving the projector further back until I can fill a 112" screen. Thanks.



Combination of physical placement and digital zoom should get you to 112"


----------



## chinmokutak

TTBear said:


> Oh god, yes!! Price was definitely a factor, but for some reason, the pricing I got in Canada was MUCH more favourable!
> 
> (Eastporters for the win!! 😄 )
> 
> The difference ended up being CDN $2100, which is about five cents US hahaha.
> 
> That made the decision much easier. If I had had to choose, with a US$3000 difference, I would have gone with the P1, I am thinking.
> 
> Either way, I am still very curious about how the P1 will shake out. I was thinking there would be more full-on reviews by now?!?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gae80uk said:
> 
> 
> 
> not the $3k price gap? /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
> 
> Honestly if the price is not a blocker, I will consider LG for the fantastic OS, native 4K apps, picture quality and blacks...but the P1 looks like a winner in a cost/effective head to head
> 
> Let's see!
> 
> 
> 
> TTBear said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is there an actual concrete release date? That would be great! I switched my deposit from the P1 to the LG, but I truly think that you cannot lose with either. The deciding factor for me, was that in our situation, the shorter throw of the LG was the deciding factor. 3D and the black colour was almost enough to tip the balance the other way.
> 
> Second guessing sucks, haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

So you got lg for CDN $2100 more? I'm really thinking if Im making the right decision with going p1. The lack of information really scares me, and I look at LG side, there's tons of information there...


----------



## klas

chinmokutak said:


> So you got lg for CDN $2100 more? I'm really thinking if Im making the right decision with going p1. The lack of information really scares me, and I look at LG side, there's tons of information there...


LG one was out for couple month now, P1 is not even released yet... Within a month we'll see plenty of info and I bet comparison between LG and P1 will be as well


----------



## TTBear

chinmokutak said:


> So you got lg for CDN $2100 more? I'm really thinking if Im making the right decision with going p1. The lack of information really scares me, and I look at LG side, there's tons of information there...


Yes, the percentage reduction on the LG was far greater for the LG than it was for the Optoma. I'm not sure I won't get a slap on the wrist for quoting pricing in exact numbers (I kind of quoted pricing already, haha)



klas said:


> LG one was out for couple month now, P1 is not even released yet... Within a month we'll see plenty of info and I bet comparison between LG and P1 will be as well


Yes, that's right. LG has been out for a couple months, and it's just now that we're really getting comprehensive reviews, so I would think that it will be the same for the Optoma. 

Lots of people waiting with bated breath!


----------



## copperfield74

So the first German dealer put a price label out. The MSRP is 3995Euros (around 4412 USD). That's around 300 Euros more than I hoped for, but 500 Euros less than I feared. So it's still on the table to be bought in October.


----------



## draconian2014

i would like to see the p1 next to my optoma zh400ust and see the difference in picture quality I love my ust . but if im get a way better picture then I currently do id make the purchase absolutely . i might wait and see the reviews first though .


----------



## J Bone

Just placed my pre-order with projectorscreen .com. 

But now I have more of a technical support question if anybody might be able to help?

I have a Harmony Elite Hub set up to use with my Google Home and Google Assistant. As I suspected on logitech‘s website the Optoma Cinemax P1 is not on their compatibility list yet. I know typically you can set the remote and hub to learn IR codes to resolve this. But reading further from what I understand it looks like the Optoma is powered by Bluetooth connectivity to its remote. Does anyone have the Harmony Hub where they have successfully added a power on/power off option via Bluetooth connection to some other unknown device? Otherwise I guess it’s another waiting game to see when Logitech decides to get it added.


----------



## g4s

Looks like there's a built in media player for USB devices. Probably have to wait and see, but I'm wondering what format drive it will recognize. Mac OS extended hopefully. exFAT? FAT32 would be a problem with it's 4gb file size limit. We only have Mac's here.


----------



## Frank714

copperfield74 said:


> So the first German dealer put a price label out. The MSRP is 3995Euros (around 4412 USD). That's around 300 Euros more than I hoped for, but 500 Euros less than I feared. So it's still on the table to be bought in October.



I think you need to consider that the German price already includes 19% VAT, the US MSRP price is without sales tax _(also ein Nettopreis) _


----------



## Kdub69

Looks like the price on amazon.ca just jumped up $500 from $3999.99 canadian to 4499.99 i’m guessing people that ordered at $3999.99 will get to keep that price


----------



## copperfield74

Frank714 said:


> copperfield74 said:
> 
> 
> 
> So the first German dealer put a price label out. The MSRP is 3995Euros (around 4412 USD). That's around 300 Euros more than I hoped for, but 500 Euros less than I feared. So it's still on the table to be bought in October.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think you need to consider that the German price already includes 19% VAT, the US MSRP price is without sales tax _(also ein Nettopreis) /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif_
Click to expand...

Hi @Frank714,
of course I included the taxes in my calculation. If we take the US price and just include the 19% we have a price of 3925 USD, which equals 3560 Euros. So we pay 430 Euros above the US price +VAT.


----------



## Gae80uk

Guys, a quick one about P1 short throw distance: 

if i got this right, to get a 120" picture you need to place the pj 14.5 inches (37 cms) away from the wall/screen.
Since the pj is 15 inches deep, we are looking at 29,5 inches (75 cms!) desk/credenza surface?

:O


----------



## TTBear

Gae80uk said:


> Guys, a quick one about P1 short throw distance:
> 
> if i got this right, to get a 120" picture you need to place the pj 14.5 inches (37 cms) away from the wall/screen.
> Since the pj is 15 inches deep, we are looking at 29,5 inches (75 cms!) desk/credenza surface?
> 
> :O



According to the throw calculator on projectorcentral .com, they say it is 26" from screen to lens, with a 0.25 throw ratio - don't know if that helps? 29.5" seems high to me? (The higher throw ratio is what made me switch my deposit from the P1 to the LG). 

Also, did anyone just now get an email from Optoma offering a $200 VISA gift voucher for an Amazon review? (I submitted my email to their web site to be updated regarding any further information).


----------



## imhotep6

TTBear said:


> According to the throw calculator on projectorcentral .com, they say it is 26" from screen to lens, with a 0.25 throw ratio - don't know if that helps? 29.5" seems high to me? (The higher throw ratio is what made me switch my deposit from the P1 to the LG).
> 
> 
> 
> Also, did anyone just now get an email from Optoma offering a $200 VISA gift voucher for an Amazon review? (I submitted my email to their web site to be updated regarding any further information).




Thanks for the heads up. I checked and email and I got the same email. I also signed up on he website.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## g4s

Gae80uk said:


> Guys, a quick one about P1 short throw distance:
> 
> if i got this right, to get a 120" picture you need to place the pj 14.5 inches (37 cms) away from the wall/screen.
> Since the pj is 15 inches deep, we are looking at 29,5 inches (75 cms!) desk/credenza surface?
> 
> :O


That's what I figured. The data sheet has a diagram that shows 14.5" from the screen for a 120". I built a small stand 32.5" so it can go against the wall. A couple extra inches for the screen thickness. If it doesn't need to be that far from the wall, I'll cut some of it off.


----------



## Bill97Z

I was looking forward to this unit, but that is a deal breaker to me. My 6' long stand is only 22" deep. I would think most people wouldn't want their stand sticking into the room 30".





g4s said:


> That's what I figured. The data sheet has a diagram that shows 14.5" from the screen for a 120". I built a small stand 32.5" so it can go against the wall. A couple extra inches for the screen thickness. If it doesn't need to be that far from the wall, I'll cut some of it off.


----------



## g4s

Bill97Z said:


> I was looking forward to this unit, but that is a deal breaker to me. My 6' long stand is only 22" deep. I would think most people wouldn't want their stand sticking into the room 30".


Yeah, that's understandable. I've got a lot of room in front of the coffee table and the stand I made is 32.5" out from the wall, 31" wide and only 4" tall. That puts the center of the screen about 48" off the floor.
If I can I'll shorten up the 32.5" dimension after it's set up.


----------



## klas

Bill97Z said:


> I was looking forward to this unit, but that is a deal breaker to me. My 6' long stand is only 22" deep. I would think most people wouldn't want their stand sticking into the room 30".


It's a nature of most if not all USTs, especially if you want larger then 100" image. So you have to modify stand by adding extended platform, get a deeper stand or come up with some other alternative solution. In my case I've gotten rid of the stand entirely and put it on a moving platform which is 3 inches from the floor. I get 120" image at the height I want now. The plus side I can move this out of the way and free up space when needed, the downside it's not permanent setup

Ideally, I would like something like this. Where UST sits low and you can extend this. Shouldn't be too difficult to modify existing stands.


----------



## ProjectionHead

klas said:


> It's a nature of most if not all USTs, especially if you want larger then 100" image. So you have to modify stand by adding extended platform, get a deeper stand or come up with some other alternative solution. In my case I've gotten rid of the stand entirely and put it on a moving platform which is 3 inches from the floor. I get 120" image at the height I want now. The plus side I can move this out of the way and free up space when needed, the downside it's not permanent setup
> 
> Ideally, I would like something like this. Where UST sits low and you can extend this. Shouldn't be too difficult to modify existing stands.


Aegis makes a great cabinet, but it costs more than the P1. 
https://aegisav.com/product/prometheus/


----------



## klas

ProjectionHead said:


> Aegis makes a great cabinet, but it costs more than the P1.
> https://aegisav.com/product/prometheus/


This reminds me of the time when we were just starting out with thin flat TVs which were already expensive and finding cheap furniture designed for them was limited. Same story repeats as we transition to USTs, expensive stands and ALR screens but give it a few years and Walmart will get us covered.


----------



## Kdub69

Hi there,

Anyone have any news on the distance I would need from the bottom of the projector to the p1 if I wanted 120 inch screen? Is there a link to this information somewhere or are we all guessing here?


----------



## g4s

Kdub69 said:


> Hi there,
> 
> Anyone have any news on the distance I would need from the bottom of the projector to the p1 if I wanted 120 inch screen? Is there a link to this information somewhere or are we all guessing here?


I believe it's the screen height x .24. For a 120" screen (59"x.24) Just over 14" from the surface the P1's sitting on to the bottom of the image on the screen. The feet are adjustable too.


----------



## chinmokutak

klas said:


> Bill97Z said:
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking forward to this unit, but that is a deal breaker to me. My 6' long stand is only 22" deep. I would think most people wouldn't want their stand sticking into the room 30".
> 
> 
> 
> It's a nature of most if not all USTs, especially if you want larger then 100" image. So you have to modify stand by adding extended platform, get a deeper stand or come up with some other alternative solution. In my case I've gotten rid of the stand entirely and put it on a moving platform which is 3 inches from the floor. I get 120" image at the height I want now. The plus side I can move this out of the way and free up space when needed, the downside it's not permanent setup
> 
> Ideally, I would like something like this. Where UST sits low and you can extend this. Shouldn't be too difficult to modify existing stands.
Click to expand...

Starting to think there's a market for a cabinet that you can adjust hight...


----------



## bix26

chinmokutak said:


> Starting to think there's a market for a cabinet that you can adjust hight...




I saw somewhere someone used a electronically height adjustable monitor stand for their UST. It had a wired remote.


----------



## TTBear

I have been talking with another of the forum members, knolly - he has managed to find umpteen examples of UST projector cabinets, with motorized shelves, motorized doors to protect the projector, and other very funky options.... it would seem that China, a country of people who have been early adopters of UST (perhaps due to the limited space in their homes?) are way ahead of North America for this kind of stuff.

https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=597166363640

https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=599518895339

These are just a couple of examples of cabinets that he has been able to find. Lots of funky stuff. 


I am digging this one, with a floor riser screen built-in, and a motorized drawer that is controlled by Apple Home/Siri:


----------



## klas

TTBear said:


> I am digging this one, with a floor riser screen built-in, and a motorized drawer that is controlled by Apple Home/Siri:
> 
> https://youtu.be/3ivzWJeLOig


oh that would be perfect. built in rise up screen with extendable shelf.


----------



## TTBear

klas said:


> oh that would be perfect. built in rise up screen with extendable shelf.



No kidding. Kudos to @Knolly - amazing internet research skills.


----------



## TimHuey

That's an amazingly tiny screen for such a large investment. Hopefully it was just proof of concept.


----------



## chinmokutak

TTBear said:


> I am digging this one, with a floor riser screen built-in, and a motorized drawer that is controlled by Apple Home/Siri:


any concerns with fully enclosed cabinets? Seems like there's got to be issues with heat, no?


----------



## TTBear

chinmokutak said:


> any concerns with fully enclosed cabinets? Seems like there's got to be issues with heat, no?


Many of these custom cabinets have supplemental fans built-in, negating that issue. Otherwise, I would be concerned, as well!


----------



## Gae80uk

Allright, so on top of expensive projectors, screens, now we need to spend another $2-3k for a tactical credenza?


----------



## klas

Gae80uk said:


> Allright, so on top of expensive projectors, screens, now we need to spend another $2-3k for a tactical credenza? /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif


We are at the tip of a new market for this and wth time and demand the whole package will be more affordable.


----------



## g4s

Gae80uk said:


> Allright, so on top of expensive projectors, screens, now we need to spend another $2-3k for a tactical credenza?


Unless you're a cheapskate like me. Paints still wet, should be flat black when it dries.


----------



## klas

g4s said:


> Unless you're a cheapskate like me. Paints still wet, should be flat black when it dries.


What's that?


----------



## g4s

klas said:


> What's that?


That's my cheap projector and center channel stand. As opposed to a 2 or $3000 credenza.


----------



## ProjectionHead

PLEASE don't shoot the messenger.... P1 expected ship date is now pushed back to 9/24. 

I was just told this by my Optoma rep a couple of minutes ago.

My belief if that they want to make sure they all updated with most current firmware and ready to be released as "bulletproof" considering that they have a big campaign out there to compensate people to leave reviews for the projector online.

It is possible that the date could change again, but this is where we are at as of today. :frown:


----------



## g4s

ProjectionHead said:


> PLEASE don't shoot the messenger.... P1 expected ship date is now pushed back to 9/24.
> 
> I was just told this by my Optoma rep a couple of minutes ago.
> 
> My belief if that they want to make sure they all updated with most current firmware and ready to be released as "bulletproof" considering that they have a big campaign out there to compensate people to leave reviews for the projector online.
> 
> It is possible that the date could change again, but this is where we are at as of today. :frown:


That's OK, I'll just stare at an empty wall in despair......Just kiddin'


----------



## Kdub69

g4s said:


> Gae80uk said:
> 
> 
> 
> Allright, so on top of expensive projectors, screens, now we need to spend another $2-3k for a tactical credenza? /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
> 
> 
> 
> Unless you're a cheapskate like me. Paints still wet, should be flat black when it dries.
Click to expand...



Can you post more pics and dimensions? Thanks!


----------



## J Bone

ProjectionHead said:


> PLEASE don't shoot the messenger.... P1 expected ship date is now pushed back to 9/24.
> 
> 
> 
> I was just told this by my Optoma rep a couple of minutes ago.
> 
> 
> 
> My belief if that they want to make sure they all updated with most current firmware and ready to be released as "bulletproof" considering that they have a big campaign out there to compensate people to leave reviews for the projector online.
> 
> 
> 
> It is possible that the date could change again, but this is where we are at as of today. :frown:


Well that's a bit of a bummer! But a BIG thanks for at least letting us know and continuing to keep us in the loop.

Aside from the side-by-side comparison with the LG Cinebeam, did you happen to take any lights-on viewing pictures while you had the P1? 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## g4s

Kdub69 said:


> Can you post more pics and dimensions? Thanks!


Yeah, I'll post some pictures tomorrow before I put another coat of paint on it. I'll flip it over so you can see how it's put together. It's 32.5" out from the wall, 31" wide to fit my oversized center channel and 4" tall to make the center of a 120" screen about 48" off the floor. 
After it's set up I may be able to cut some of that 32.5" dimension off so it doesn't stick out on the floor any farther than necessary.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

klas said:


> It's a nature of most if not all USTs, especially if you want larger then 100" image. So you have to modify stand by adding extended platform, get a deeper stand or come up with some other alternative solution. In my case I've gotten rid of the stand entirely and put it on a moving platform which is 3 inches from the floor. I get 120" image at the height I want now. The plus side I can move this out of the way and free up space when needed, the downside it's not permanent setup
> 
> Ideally, I would like something like this. Where UST sits low and you can extend this. Shouldn't be too difficult to modify existing stands.
> 
> SNIP PIC


+1

Due to the dearth of low profile stands that would allow for a center speaker and UST I had one custom made for around $450 ($160 in materials) . I have a 5.5" platform for my center speaker which sits behind a 3" platform for my Fengmi 4K Cinema and 120" screen. I think 3 inches is perfect for most people looking for 120". I made it wide enough (36") and deep enough to allow for a change to a P1 or upgrade in the future. The projector platform also slides in and out under the speaker platform if needed. 

Honestly if you're looking at a large fixed screen I don't see how you can do it without going custom or something more expensive than your projector. The 100" setups on taller stands have been closer but still put the screen too high for an optimal viewer height of 1/3 screen height.


----------



## Kdub69

Casey_Bryson said:


> klas said:
> 
> 
> 
> It's a nature of most if not all USTs, especially if you want larger then 100" image. So you have to modify stand by adding extended platform, get a deeper stand or come up with some other alternative solution. In my case I've gotten rid of the stand entirely and put it on a moving platform which is 3 inches from the floor. I get 120" image at the height I want now. The plus side I can move this out of the way and free up space when needed, the downside it's not permanent setup
> 
> Ideally, I would like something like this. Where UST sits low and you can extend this. Shouldn't be too difficult to modify existing stands.
> 
> SNIP PIC
> 
> 
> 
> +1
> 
> Due to the dearth of low profile stands that would allow for a center speaker and UST I had one custom made for around $450 ($160 in materials) . I have a 5.5" platform for my center speaker which sits behind a 3" platform for my Fengmi 4K Cinema and 120" screen. I think 3 inches is perfect for most people looking for 120". I made it wide enough (36") and deep enough to allow for a change to a P1 or upgrade in the future. The projector platform also slides in and out under the speaker platform if needed.
> 
> Honestly if you're looking at a large fixed screen I don't see how you can do it without going custom or something more expensive than your projector. The 100" setups on taller stands have been closer but still put the screen too high for an optimal viewer height of 1/3 screen height.
Click to expand...


Hi Casey can you please post a few pics on how this looks? I was always wondering if I could put the center speaker behind the and above the ust. Thanks!


----------



## chinmokutak

ProjectionHead said:


> PLEASE don't shoot the messenger.... P1 expected ship date is now pushed back to 9/24.
> 
> I was just told this by my Optoma rep a couple of minutes ago.
> 
> My belief if that they want to make sure they all updated with most current firmware and ready to be released as "bulletproof" considering that they have a big campaign out there to compensate people to leave reviews for the projector online.
> 
> It is possible that the date could change again, but this is where we are at as of today.


Is it just me who is getting worried about this?
Most of people who have seen this device say it good for the price, not really what I want to hear from projector priced 3x of my current projector...


----------



## ProjectionHead

J Bone said:


> Well that's a bit of a bummer! But a BIG thanks for at least letting us know and continuing to keep us in the loop.
> 
> Aside from the side-by-side comparison with the LG Cinebeam, did you happen to take any lights-on viewing pictures while you had the P1?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I have a couple pics but they are really not that good. I have like 100+ footcandles of light shining right on the screen from the top and sides; we wanted to see how the UST surface looked in the most unrealistic lighting conditions possible.

Settings were right out of the box with no calibration.

We've got a much better demo setup ready with various surfaces types and lighting conditions for when the P1 comes in and will be posting images the day they arrive


----------



## ProjectionHead

chinmokutak said:


> Is it just me who is getting worried about this?
> Most of people who have seen this device say it good for the price, not really what I want to hear from projector priced 3x of my current projector...


What would you want to hear? that it's NOT good for the price? j/k

It is a good unit regardless of the price, but when you factor in how much less it is than the LG, it really has a great value proposition, ESPECIALLY if you want to use the audio.

Before I was told about the push-back on release date, my coworkers were talking about how this "better not be another JVC debacle" but I don't think it will. Besides, the new JVC units were worth the wait 

From what I understand the units are already here in the USA and are going through firmware upgrades before they ship. There is nothing "wrong" with them; Optoma just wants to have a bulletproof launch especially since they are compensating heavily for people to leave reviews on their site.

I'm not sure if they are going to require reviewers to provide proof of purchase ("verified reviews") but if they do it's a nice rebate for those who pre-ordered.

Optoma will be posting more details regarding that soon as well.


----------



## J Bone

ProjectionHead said:


> I have a couple pics but they are really not that good. I have like 100+ footcandles of light shining right on the screen from the top and sides; we wanted to see how the UST surface looked in the most unrealistic lighting conditions possible.
> 
> 
> 
> Settings were right out of the box with no calibration.
> 
> 
> 
> We've got a much better demo setup ready with various surfaces types and lighting conditions for when the P1 comes in and will be posting images the day they arrive


Is that a CLR screen for USTs or a ALR screen for other types of projectors?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## klas

Amazon release date hasn't changed, besides Optoma wants you to buy it from Amazon and pay you 200 for a review. I would be concerned with that then a pushed release date. Why would they openly offer this.


----------



## ProjectionHead

klas said:


> Amazon release date hasn't changed, besides Optoma wants you to buy it from Amazon and pay you 200 for a review. I would be concerned with that then a pushed release date. Why would they openly offer this.


They will also pay you for the review on their own website as well. I don't think they specifically want you to buy it at Amazon instead of other dealers; they prob make less money selling it to Amazon than smaller places and are have to deal with much worse return issues. They know that Amazon is a resource that people go to for reviews on products specifically, so getting a lot of reviews there (hopefully positive) will lift sales in all channels.

I believe the push date is due to the fact they are investing so heavily; $200 x 200 reviews (+ all the extras that come in after the first 200) = $40,000. I would expect that they want to be sure that those reviews are good ones.

They must really want to gain ground quickly to invest $40k in review gathering alone.


----------



## ProjectionHead

J Bone said:


> Is that a CLR screen for USTs or a ALR screen for other types of projectors?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


That was an ALR for UST projectors. If that was a standard throw ALR or regular white screen you would see anything on it.
Keep in mind, the amount of light hitting that screen was out of control and way brighter than my living room could ever be with all lights on.

Grab a light meter app for your phone that measures in Footcandles. Take some readings where the screen is/would be. If you are at 100+, get some sunglasses.

When we post our next round of pics we will show different lighting and provide FC reading for each pic so you can see what more closely resembles your rooms lighting condition.


----------



## hxe

Hi all, I am really interested of buying Optoma P1 for my first projector. Currently I have 65” LG OLED on my living room and planning to replace it by 100” ARL screen. How is the picture quality compared to OLED during normal daylight? I usually watch TV by day and movies by evening on quite dark room.


----------



## Gae80uk

@ProjectionHead thanks for all these sneak pics/info...it looks like October might be a more realistic release date..another couple of months and it's Xmas!


----------



## Kev1000000

@ProjectionHead, the P1 uses a color wheel, correct? If so, have you noticed any RBE's?


----------



## Kdub69

ProjectionHead said:


> J Bone said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is that a CLR screen for USTs or a ALR screen for other types of projectors?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> That was an ALR for UST projectors. If that was a standard throw ALR or regular white screen you would see anything on it.
> Keep in mind, the amount of light hitting that screen was out of control and way brighter than my living room could ever be with all lights on.
> 
> Grab a light meter app for your phone that measures in Footcandles. Take some readings where the screen is/would be. If you are at 100+, get some sunglasses.
> 
> When we post our next round of pics we will show different lighting and provide FC reading for each pic so you can see what more closely resembles your rooms lighting condition.
Click to expand...


How many footcandels should I have if I want to use a regular screen instead of a alr screen? I know alr screens are the way to go but if I have a man cave can I get away with a regular screen? Let me know your thoughts!


----------



## g4s

Kdub69 said:


> Can you post more pics and dimensions? Thanks!


Here's a couple more pictures. 32 1/2"x31"x4"

There's also a picture of my previous stand to be disposed of. Anyone need a stand for a Mitsubishi 92" HDTV?.......didn't think so.


----------



## J Bone

Kdub69 said:


> How many footcandels should I have if I want to use a regular screen instead of a alr screen? I know alr screens are the way to go but if I have a man cave can I get away with a regular screen? Let me know your thoughts![/quote @ProjectionHead would probably be the best to answer that question. Although I can tell you from my own experience when I had on ALR screen dedicated to all types of projectors rather than ones dedicated to UST projectors, since the projection is cast in an upward fashion other types of screens will tend to reflect the image on to the ceiling as well as the screen. Here's a photo of a prime example. Where this screen tends to reflect a ALR UST made screen will capture the light and not reflect it upward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## flint350

How do these ust projectors work with an anamorphic screen? My assumption is that they simply letterbox inside the 16:9 area and never use the wide 2.35 portion of the screen. I don't recall mention of optical zoom that most "normal" 4k projectors use and they clearly wouldn't work with anamorphic lenses. I have a 136" diagonal 2.35 screen with a 110" diagonal 16:9 center with an Epson 5040 projector overhead. Having a UST nearer the screen is attractive for many reasons, but I fear it's not feasible with scope screens.


----------



## ProjectionHead

J Bone said:


> Kdub69 said:
> 
> 
> 
> How many footcandels should I have if I want to use a regular screen instead of a alr screen? I know alr screens are the way to go but if I have a man cave can I get away with a regular screen? Let me know your thoughts![/quote @ProjectionHead would probably be the best to answer that question. Although I can tell you from my own experience when I had on ALR screen dedicated to all types of projectors rather than ones dedicated to UST projectors, since the projection is cast in an upward fashion other types of screens will tend to reflect the image on to the ceiling as well as the screen. Here's a photo of a prime example. Where this screen tends to reflect a ALR UST made screen will capture the light and not reflect it upward.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> You are absolutely correct. A traditional diffuse screen will bounce a lot of light upwards and onto the ceiling. Elunevision will be coming out with a non ALR surface that is intended to work with UST to prevent that from happening and ensuring uniform image brightness. This will not be available until Mid-October and will be released on ProjectorScreen.com first in the USA and Eastporters in Canada.
> 
> They will also be releasing a UST ALR surface at the same time and I will post info on both in the screens sub once we have our samples.
Click to expand...


----------



## ProjectionHead

flint350 said:


> How do these ust projectors work with an anamorphic screen? My assumption is that they simply letterbox inside the 16:9 area and never use the wide 2.35 portion of the screen. I don't recall mention of optical zoom that most "normal" 4k projectors use and they clearly wouldn't work with anamorphic lenses. I have a 136" diagonal 2.35 screen with a 110" diagonal 16:9 center with an Epson 5040 projector overhead. Having a UST nearer the screen is attractive for many reasons, but I fear it's not feasible with scope screens.


That is correct, the P1 will not be able to project a 2.35:1 image and will simply display the 2.35:1 image inside of a 16:9 container.
I am not aware of any USTs that support 2.35:1


----------



## CarlosLehder

Is the elite screens AEON CLR screen recommended for this type of UST in the $1-1.5k range? Or is it recommended at all? I haven't seen many others that arent from china or over 3 grand. I currently have a tv and projector in the same room and was on the verge of upgrading my tv, but would rather spend the money on the p1 and consolidate to a single setup with a screen I can use in the daytime.


----------



## colinmatheny11

CarlosLehder said:


> Is the elite screens AEON CLR screen recommended for this type of UST in the $1-1.5k range? Or is it recommended at all? I haven't seen many others that arent from china or over 3 grand. I currently have a tv and projector in the same room and was on the verge of upgrading my tv, but would rather spend the money on the p1 and consolidate to a single setup with a screen I can use in the daytime.


I got my UST CLR ALR from Silver Ticket screens for under $1500 shipped in the US. I'm sure 95% of the screen material comes from the same factory in China. The Silver Ticket frame however has a solid top and bottom frame and doesn't join together in the middle like the Elite. 

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk


----------



## ProjectionHead

CarlosLehder said:


> Is the elite screens AEON CLR screen recommended for this type of UST in the $1-1.5k range? Or is it recommended at all? I haven't seen many others that arent from china or over 3 grand. I currently have a tv and projector in the same room and was on the verge of upgrading my tv, but would rather spend the money on the p1 and consolidate to a single setup with a screen I can use in the daytime.


If you are looking for the least expensive solution and one that only negates the light from overhead (not sides) than the CLR is a good economical option. We have not tested a full size screen, but on the sample we have we were _not_ able to resolve defined, square 4k pixels like we were on the SI Short Throw, Da-lite Parallax UST or Grandview Dynamique.


----------



## bix26

ProjectionHead said:


> If you are looking for the least expensive solution and one that only negates the light from overhead (not sides) than the CLR is a good economical option. We have not tested a full size screen, but on the sample we have we were _not_ able to resolve defined, square 4k pixels like we were on the SI Short Throw, Da-lite Parallax UST or Grandview Dynamique.




Please stop


----------



## chinmokutak

Anyone know how this device compares against LG's HU70LA? I knot it's not UST, but I was wondering if it's comparable


----------



## klas

chinmokutak said:


> Anyone know how this device compares against LG's HU70LA? I knot it's not UST, but I was wondering if it's comparable


No, this is like deciding between Lexus RX SUV and Nissan Altima sedan


----------



## Kdub69

Xyscreen 120inch alr ust pet crystal screen is this the best budget screen? $1500 Canadian anyone else got a better price from xyscreen? Is there a better alternative thats cheaper? I have a darker man cave but don’t want it to project on the ceiling thanks


----------



## chinmokutak

klas said:


> No, this is like deciding between Lexus RX SUV and Nissan Altima sedan


which one is which??
I thought it's comparable other than the fact one is UST, and another is just ST.
LG one has 4 colorsource with HDR compatibility, whereas P1 is UST with one laser, and wheel.
I thought it would be comparable, no? Unless we can actually compare P1 with LG's UST, but for the price range, I don't know that's a fair comparison


----------



## bix26

Kdub69 said:


> Xyscreen 120inch alr ust pet crystal screen is this the best budget screen? $1500 Canadian anyone else got a better price from xyscreen? Is there a better alternative thats cheaper? I have a darker man cave but don’t want it to project on the ceiling thanks




Have you compared it with the Silver Ticket, or ViewSonic BCP? Both have similar price and features. In addition they have warranty and customer service domestically to North America.


----------



## klas

chinmokutak said:


> which one is which??
> I thought it's comparable other than the fact one is UST, and another is just ST.
> LG one has 4 colorsource with HDR compatibility, whereas P1 is UST with one laser, and wheel.
> I thought it would be comparable, no? Unless we can actually compare P1 with LG's UST, but for the price range, I don't know that's a fair comparison


If they were comparable we wouldn't be flocking over UST style projectors which are much more money. If you think that LG ST will do it for you, go for it. LG also has UST which is what would be comparable to P1. We might have some comparison reviews with LG UST when P1 gets released.


----------



## Gae80uk

While waiting for P1 new videos/reviews...was checking some cheaper console/coffee table solutions (under £100) with a pull off shelf to place the P1 and extend it to reach the needed 66cms distance for a 120" image 

Console tables
https://www.wellindal.co.uk/furniture/lintu/desktop-console?r=8423490264783
https://www.wayfair.co.uk/furniture/pdp/red-barrel-studio-dave-desk-rebs1357.html?piid=24070032

Coffee tables
https://www.wellindal.co.uk/furnitu...-with-built-in-magazine-rack-100-x-50-x-43-54
https://www.bigfurniturewarehouse.c...MImYDq3YjV5AIVirHtCh1eSgNjEAkYFCABEgJyFfD_BwE


----------



## chinmokutak

klas said:


> If they were comparable we wouldn't be flocking over UST style projectors which are much more money. If you think that LG ST will do it for you, go for it. LG also has UST which is what would be comparable to P1. We might have some comparison reviews with LG UST when P1 gets released.


Not to disagree with you significantly, but 85LA is ~2.7K more expensive than Optoma vs. 70LA being ~1.5K more. I would think 70LA would be more comparable considering the price difference. 
Are we paying that much of tax going to UST vs. regular ST?


----------



## klas

chinmokutak said:


> Not to disagree with you significantly, but 85LA is ~2.7K more expensive than Optoma vs. 70LA being ~1.5K more. I would think 70LA would be more comparable considering the price difference.
> Are we paying that much of tax going to UST vs. regular ST?


UST has been around for a while, but it's high price since not much competion until recently and the fact that it uses laser light source (LG UST has double laser). It's much much (did I say much?) more convenient with install unlike front projector (heck there is no install even for me, just set it on a tv stand pretty much and done, it's easy to move it around between rooms... at least until I get a second one), especially if you don't have dedicated HT room. 

Aside from that P1 has double brightness, has built-in premium sound and image quality such as contrast/black levels will be most likely much better especially if you combine with UST ALR screen. Also, I am not sure where you got the idea about that LG being short throw, it's normal throw at 9 feet you are only getting 100". 

If you insist on comparing with front projector then perhaps look at LG HU80KA since they both laser, 4k and somewhat equivalent brightness. If your goal to save money then next step down is looking at led/bulbs projectors which are cheaper.


----------



## chinmokutak

klas said:


> UST has been around for a while, but it's high price since not much competion until recently and the fact that it uses laser light source (LG UST has double laser). It's much much (did I say much?) more convenient with install unlike front projector (heck there is no install even for me, just set it on a tv stand pretty much and done, it's easy to move it around between rooms... at least until I get a second one), especially if you don't have dedicated HT room.
> 
> Aside from that P1 has double brightness, has built-in premium sound and image quality such as contrast/black levels will be most likely much better especially if you combine with UST ALR screen. Also, I am not sure where you got the idea about that LG being short throw, it's normal throw at 9 feet you are only getting 100".
> 
> If you insist on comparing with front projector then perhaps look at LG HU80KA since they both laser, 4k and somewhat equivalent brightness. If your goal to save money then next step down is looking at led/bulbs projectors which are cheaper.



well, what I was looking for is the equivalent picture quality in ST. Are we talking about UHL55 equivalent or anything even abit more expensive?
I agree there's alot of benefits with UST, I'm just wondering what we're giving up for the benefits.


----------



## klas

chinmokutak said:


> well, what I was looking for is the equivalent picture quality in ST. Are we talking about UHL55 equivalent or anything even abit more expensive?
> I agree there's alot of benefits with UST, I'm just wondering what we're giving up for the benefits.


You are giving up your hard earned cash and a lot of it, that's it.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Kdub69 said:


> Hi Casey can you please post a few pics on how this looks? I was always wondering if I could put the center speaker behind the and above the ust. Thanks!


Here's a pic I took for the handyman to fix some unexpected sag. The sides need to be pushed in, everything centered, etc..., but you get the idea.


----------



## Koeikan

So, I've been lurking around about every other month for the last year or two, trying to find an upgrade to my BenQ HT1085ST.

I think the Optoma P1 might be the one to finally retire my tired 1085... but I have a couple questions I'd love to have answered to alleviate any residual concerns.

*Projector Screen Issues?*
I currently have a mounted fixed frame grey (gain 1.0) 135" screen made by silver ticket (STR-169135-G)... based on what I have read, this should be fine for UST, but may or may not be not be great for 4k.

Long term I can see myself getting a nice ALR screen, but wondering how much I might be compromising the picture quality, contrast, black levels, etc until then.

Also, the screen size... I guess I have two options and neither seem great. 
- Project the size larger than rated (120"->135"), but don't have a great grasp how much that might impact distortion/brightness/etc.
- ...or project a smaller image than what I have available in screen real estate... but not sure if that might be a problem w/r/t ambient light (would have ~6" on each side and 3" above and below the screen that I would not be projecting on.) I guess I could mod my screen with an extra felt border, but would be interested if anyone else has any thoughts on the best route based on their experience, etc.

*Value comparison*
How does this hold up when comparing the technical specs to other value competitors (WEMAX/VAVA/etc). I know there is often a big gap between raw specs and the final implementation and other intangibles (menu language, noise levels, etc), but is it safe to say it is at least on par with the other all known alternatives (under $4k) or is there any other offering that really jumps out from a value perspective... from what I have seen/understand, the next jump up would probably be the dual laser wielding LG, but that's at 2x the cost... but please let me know if I'm mistaken.

*Contrast concerns*
I've seen some rumblings around contrast + .47 chips + contrast regression over time. Has this been solved? Any open concerns here re: contrast? I saw some reports of some laser projectors regressing to ~500:1 contrast ratio. My understanding was that laser projectors should have much better contrast than bulb in general, so not how it would be so awful. That's the biggest thing I've never been happy with on the BenQ, so having great contrast (/black levels) is really important to me (gonna be  if I see anything washed out). 

*Value upgrading from tired HT1085ST*
Despite checking in for possible upgraded, I'm mostly out of the loop on projectors since late 2014. My expectation is that a more expensive projector ~5 years younger should _stomp_ on my current/old projector across the board. I was pretty happy with the color accuracy on my BenQ, but the brightness was only 'okay' ('good' under perfect conditions) and the black levels were always garbage, IMO (coming from a higher end plasma before switching to the BenQ).

I know this is _super _subjective, but how likely is it I might be setting myself up for disappointment ? 


...hopefully this all hasn't all been asked/answered many times before (I tried my best to search these specifics w/o much luck), but I appreciate anyone who made it this far . Thanks.
(+let me know if you need any additional details/context from my side)


----------



## Kdub69

Casey_Bryson said:


> Kdub69 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Casey can you please post a few pics on how this looks? I was always wondering if I could put the center speaker behind the and above the ust. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a pic I took for the handyman to fix some unexpected sag. The sides need to be pushed in, everything centered, etc..., but you get the idea.
Click to expand...


Any chance you have the dimensions for this so I can build one like it? Looks good! Thanks


----------



## Frank714

Koeikan said:


> *Contrast concerns*
> I've seen some rumblings around contrast + .47 chips + contrast regression over time. Has this been solved? Any open concerns here re: contrast? I saw some reports of some laser projectors regressing to ~500:1 contrast ratio. My understanding was that laser projectors should have much better contrast than bulb in general, so not how it would be so awful. That's the biggest thing I've never been happy with on the BenQ, so having great contrast (/black levels) is really important to me (gonna be  if I see anything washed out).


 
As this is DLP technology there is no contrast regression over time (this phenomenon has been observed with Sony projectors using SXRD technology). The problem remains that the native contrast of the 0.47" Digital Micromirror Device (DMD) is around 500:1 which is a far cry from the native contrast / black levels you get from an OLED Screen or JVC front projector (several thousands: 1).
The larger 0.66" DMD has provided a native contrast of 1,000:1 and Vivitek will be using that DMD in its UST projector expected later this year (probably showcased at CES in January).


The only way to increase perceived black leves is dynamic dimming of the light source. From what I read here at the AVS (rather extensively and recently) dynamic dimming is somewhat more effective with laser than bulb projectors.


But even that still won't get you close to the black levels of an OLED screen and in an ambient light environment your projected images will always look washed out, because you are looking at a reflection of the light source while a flat screen is the light source and therefore rather immune to ambient light. A special UST ALR will solve the issue to some point, but still won't accomplish "OLED" wonders.


----------



## solal-

I currently own a Sony HW-55ES and I need to change for an ust because I move to an other flat and will have only 3m from wall to wall in my new living room. (I don't know if there is some projector with a ratio that let you have 100" from 3m minus the projector size ?). The contrast on my current projector is about 6000:1 if I remember well, the it's also very well calibrated by default and have only 22ms. Do you think the picture quality will be a lot worse with a projector like the P1 or the LG ? Or maybe I will loose in contrast but gain in picture quality with HDR and 4k ?


----------



## JX Liu

I don't understand why I haven't seen the real ordinary users' comments on Optoma P1 yet, even if it is not in China. I know that P1 has already offered retail in the Chinese market as early as July 2019, and it is said that Out of stock


----------



## klas

JX Liu said:


> I don't understand why I haven't seen the real ordinary users' comments on Optoma P1 yet, even if it is not in China. I know that P1 has already offered retail in the Chinese market as early as July 2019, and it is said that Out of stock


You mean OptUma P1, we are not wanting that one. The real one has not been out.


----------



## Kdub69

Just got email notification from amazon.ca that the p1 will now be shipping anywhere from Oct30- Dec8th. Hopefully this changes let me know if you guys get your order faster from amazon.com or a different site?


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Kdub69 said:


> Any chance you have the dimensions for this so I can build one like it? Looks good! Thanks


I've attached my hand written notes. It's best to use it as a guide. The Only thing I would change is the depth of the Center Speaker base/platform from 15 inches to 12 inches to account for cables sticking out and other variances. I'll be cutting 3 inches into mine where the projector sits. I didn't have the screen up when I made the measurments. Rookie mistake ;-)


----------



## Koeikan

Kdub69 said:


> Just got email notification from amazon.ca that the p1 will now be shipping anywhere from Oct30- Dec8th. Hopefully this changes let me know if you guys get your order faster from amazon.com or a different site?


In my experience, smaller/boutique sellers that ship directly (not processed through a warehouse) will probably ship up to a week or so sooner.

Amazon has never had great estimates for pre-orders (from what I've seen, they are usually on the conservative side... but not always). That being said, amazon.com has the ETA date as 10/1.


----------



## Koeikan

Frank714 said:


> As this is DLP technology there is no contrast regression over time (this phenomenon has been observed with Sony projectors using SXRD technology). The problem remains that the native contrast of the 0.47" Digital Micromirror Device (DMD) is around 500:1 which is a far cry from the native contrast / black levels you get from an OLED Screen or JVC front projector (several thousands: 1).
> The larger 0.66" DMD has provided a native contrast of 1,000:1 and Vivitek will be using that DMD in its UST projector expected later this year (probably showcased at CES in January).
> 
> 
> The only way to increase perceived black leves is dynamic dimming of the light source. From what I read here at the AVS (rather extensively and recently) dynamic dimming is somewhat more effective with laser than bulb projectors.
> 
> 
> But even that still won't get you close to the black levels of an OLED screen and in an ambient light environment your projected images will always look washed out, because you are looking at a reflection of the light source while a flat screen is the light source and therefore rather immune to ambient light. A special UST ALR will solve the issue to some point, but still won't accomplish "OLED" wonders.


Thanks for the reply/info.

I guess this isn't P1 specific, but why the huge disparity between the contrast rating (1,500,000:1) and the native contrast (500:1).

I'm certainly not expecting OLED level of contrast, but I would expect a VERY substantial jump in contrast compared to my BenQ HT1085ST. Would I be off-base on that? I thought laser projectors inherently had better contrast than bulb projectors (even before dynamic dimming comes into the picture), but 500:1 seems really low...


----------



## chinmokutak

Kdub69 said:


> Just got email notification from amazon.ca that the p1 will now be shipping anywhere from Oct30- Dec8th. Hopefully this changes let me know if you guys get your order faster from amazon.com or a different site?


hmmm, I really hope they ship it soon, or I'm risking loosing my CC's sign-in bonus...


----------



## klas

Tempted, but I won't be rushing to buy it, will wait for reviews/comparisons and hopefully we'll see some good discounts on Black Friday to make it below $3k.


----------



## TimHuey

Koeikan said:


> Frank714 said:
> 
> 
> 
> As this is DLP technology there is no contrast regression over time (this phenomenon has been observed with Sony projectors using SXRD technology). The problem remains that the native contrast of the 0.47" Digital Micromirror Device (DMD) is around 500:1 which is a far cry from the native contrast / black levels you get from an OLED Screen or JVC front projector (several thousands: 1).
> The larger 0.66" DMD has provided a native contrast of 1,000:1 and Vivitek will be using that DMD in its UST projector expected later this year (probably showcased at CES in January).
> 
> 
> The only way to increase perceived black leves is dynamic dimming of the light source. From what I read here at the AVS (rather extensively and recently) dynamic dimming is somewhat more effective with laser than bulb projectors.
> 
> 
> But even that still won't get you close to the black levels of an OLED screen and in an ambient light environment your projected images will always look washed out, because you are looking at a reflection of the light source while a flat screen is the light source and therefore rather immune to ambient light. A special UST ALR will solve the issue to some point, but still won't accomplish "OLED" wonders. /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply/info.
> 
> I guess this isn't P1 specific, but why the huge disparity between the contrast rating (1,500,000:1) and the native contrast (500:1).
> 
> I'm certainly not expecting OLED level of contrast, but I would expect a VERY substantial jump in contrast compared to my BenQ HT1085ST. Would I be off-base on that? I thought laser projectors inherently had better contrast than bulb projectors (even before dynamic dimming comes into the picture), but 500:1 seems really low...
Click to expand...

Two different types of contrast. Check out a video on ANSI CONTRAST AND FULL ON OFF CONTRAST.


----------



## TimHuey

Anyone know what happens to the image other than it expanding obviously when you slide the projector away from the screen perpendicularly. Does the image stay centered and just get bigger or does it also transit vertically?


----------



## g4s

TimHuey said:


> Anyone know what happens to the image other than it expanding obviously when you slide the projector away from the screen perpendicularly. Does the image stay centered and just get bigger or does it also transit vertically?


I think it does rise vertically. I read somewhere you take the screen height x .24 to get the distance from the P1's stand height to the bottom of the screen. You can round it down to the nearest inch because of the adjustable feet.


----------



## klas

TimHuey said:


> Anyone know what happens to the image other than it expanding obviously when you slide the projector away from the screen perpendicularly. Does the image stay centered and just get bigger or does it also transit vertically?


No it doesn't stay centered, bottom of the image only moves vertically a few inches while the rest of it expands or gets smaller


----------



## Adarsh Shah

*Pricing on the LS 500*



colinmatheny11 said:


> My needle to moving towards the newly announced Epson LS 500. Similar price (2,999) point without all the extras such as built in apps, soundbar etc.
> 
> Hopefully the contrast is better than the LS100.
> 
> Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk


Pricing on the LS 500 - the 100-inch projector and screen combo will cost $4,999, while the 120-inch combo will be $5,999, and both include a pair of 10-watt front-facing speakers. I'm not sure about the pricing without the screen.


----------



## klas

Adarsh Shah said:


> colinmatheny11 said:
> 
> 
> 
> My needle to moving towards the newly announced Epson LS 500. Similar price (2,999) point without all the extras such as built in apps, soundbar etc.
> 
> Hopefully the contrast is better than the LS100.
> 
> Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Pricing on the LS 500 - the 100-inch projector and screen combo will cost $4,999, while the 120-inch combo will be $5,999, and both include a pair of 10-watt front-facing speakers. I'm not sure about the pricing without the screen.
Click to expand...

Pricing with screen is ok, but they killed their product by not making it a real UST


----------



## Koeikan

TimHuey said:


> Two different types of contrast. Check out a video on ANSI CONTRAST AND FULL ON OFF CONTRAST.


Okay, thanks, makes sense... seems like the ANSI contrast rating is generally much harder to find than it is for lumens w/r/t projectors .

Anyway, if this UST projector from Optoma has a native ANSI contrast of 500:1... which happens to be the same as my dated HT1085ST DLP projector, should I expect similar contrast between the two? 

If so, that would be majorly disappointing.

How big a factor does dynamic dimming make and is it safe to assume that isn't factored in to the ANSI contrast (alternatively, how much of a difference would the perceived contrast differ between two projectors with the same native contrast but much different dynamic contrast ratings)? I see that native contrast is definitely more important, but still not clear how to compare and contrast (...) the ratings.

*I guess the crux of what I'm asking is* "has contrast performance generally stalled for projectors in the last 5 years or has it improved significantly despite the same native contrast ratings"? Trying to decide if I can make the plunge now w/ the P1 or wait another year for affordable 0.66" DMD ST/UST offerings to start showing up.


----------



## klas

In my experience contrast numbers are meaningless in specs, wait until reviews come out and do a real measurement.


----------



## TimHuey

klas said:


> In my experience contrast numbers are meaningless in specs, wait until reviews come out and do a real measurement.


Yep from a reliable 3 party also. Not the dealer lol. Not that the review from the dealer isnt welcomed it's just unusable for evaluation and purchase.


----------



## Koeikan

klas said:


> In my experience contrast numbers are meaningless in specs, wait until reviews come out and do a real measurement.


Okay, specific projector contrast ratings aside, can I be a bit more general and just ask how the perceived contrast on mid-range laser projectors of today (IE: UST options that have been released like the WEMAX/VAVA/etc) compare to older budget DLP bulb projectors 5 years ago (IE: BenQ/Optoma) given the same native contrast.

I'm trying to get a sense of if this is something that has been getting significantly better using other methods of implementation or if it's mostly been stagnant and the contrast on those older bulb projectors are more or less in line with newer laser projectors.


----------



## klas

Koeikan said:


> Okay, specific projector contrast ratings aside, can I be a bit more general and just ask how the perceived contrast on mid-range laser projectors of today (IE: UST options that have been released like the WEMAX/VAVA/etc) compare to older budget DLP bulb projectors 5 years ago (IE: BenQ/Optoma) given the same native contrast.
> 
> I'm trying to get a sense of if this is something that has been getting significantly better using other methods of implementation or if it's mostly been stagnant and the contrast on those older bulb projectors are more or less in line with newer laser projectors.


I can tell you that I owned this one https://www.projectorcentral.com/Acer-H6510BD.htm before I got Xiaomi and spec numbers aside perceived contrast as well as blacks and color is much better with laser UST. Also both projectors are native 1080p, but 4k looks so much better with Xiaomi. I would expect that Optoma won't let us down with P1 and it will be as good or better.

Btw where did you see native contrast 500:1 for P1?


----------



## Koeikan

klas said:


> Btw where did you see native contrast 500:1 for P1?


Appears to be determined by the DMD it's using.



Frank714 said:


> As this is DLP technology there is no contrast regression over time (this phenomenon has been observed with Sony projectors using SXRD technology). The problem remains that the native contrast of the 0.47" Digital Micromirror Device (DMD) is around 500:1 which is a far cry from the native contrast / black levels you get from an OLED Screen or JVC front projector (several thousands: 1).
> The larger 0.66" DMD has provided a native contrast of 1,000:1 and Vivitek will be using that DMD in its UST projector expected later this year (probably showcased at CES in January).


^ although I think I had read one of the Xiaomi projectors was able to get over 1000:1 with the .47 somehow.


----------



## Kdub69

Casey_Bryson said:


> Kdub69 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any chance you have the dimensions for this so I can build one like it? Looks good! Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> I've attached my hand written notes. It's best to use it as a guide. The Only thing I would change is the depth of the Center Speaker base/platform from 15 inches to 12 inches to account for cables sticking out and other variances. I'll be cutting 3 inches into mine where the projector sits. I didn't have the screen up when I made the measurments. Rookie mistake ;-)
Click to expand...


Awesome thanks!!! What size is your screen right now
120inch?


----------



## Frank714

Koeikan said:


> Appears to be determined by the DMD it's using.
> 
> although I think I had read one of the Xiaomi projectors was able to get over 1000:1 with the .47 somehow.



Over 2,000:1 actually according to the French review: https://www.passionhomecinema.fr/bl...19/test-xiaomi-laser-ust-4k-lavis-de-gregory/ (English translation further down). But since it should be impossible to get a native contrast significantly ecxeeding 500:1 with the 0.47" DMD, it has been speculated that the Xiaomi already uses dynamic laser dimming in the standard operation mode without having announced that.


----------



## maverick87r

ProjectionHead said:


> PLEASE don't shoot the messenger.... P1 expected ship date is now pushed back to 9/24.
> 
> 
> 
> I was just told this by my Optoma rep a couple of minutes ago.
> 
> 
> 
> My belief if that they want to make sure they all updated with most current firmware and ready to be released as "bulletproof" considering that they have a big campaign out there to compensate people to leave reviews for the projector online.
> 
> 
> 
> It is possible that the date could change again, but this is where we are at as of today. :frown:




Any updates on ship date? I noticed that projector screen.com says 9/30.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Kdub69 said:


> Awesome thanks!!! What size is your screen right now
> 120inch?


NP! Yes 120 inch. It's the biggest size you can currently get with PET CLR.


----------



## klas

Frank714 said:


> Over 2,000:1 actually according to the French review: https://www.passionhomecinema.fr/bl...19/test-xiaomi-laser-ust-4k-lavis-de-gregory/ (English translation further down). But since it should be impossible to get a native contrast significantly ecxeeding 500:1 with the 0.47" DMD, it has been speculated that the Xiaomi already uses dynamic laser dimming in the standard operation mode without having announced that.


and they claimed 3000:1 native contrast which again shows how these numbers in specs don't mean anything along with a lumen rating.


----------



## Floorit72

Eastporters in Canada has a package with the cinemax pi and Aurora 8k ust alr screen 120 inch for $5400. Looks like an amazing deal for the screen. Does anyone know if the quality of the screen is similar to xy pet crystal? The frame and material look the same, both are.8 gain.

See a copy of the email I received from Eastporters 

Here is a link to the screen: https://www.eastporters.com/product/110-elunevision-reference-8k-short-throw-alr-projection-screen-2/ We currently do not have a package price up on our website! Yes that price is for a 120" fixed frame. The screen gain is .08 gain. If you have any questions please let us know!


----------



## Gae80uk

This thread is becoming stagnant...the lack of P1 content is triggering just parallel conversations, not fun :/


----------



## klas

Gae80uk said:


> This thread is becoming stagnant...the lack of P1 content is triggering just parallel conversations, not fun :/


We waited that long what's two more weeks and things will pick up...


----------



## solal-

For those in Europe interested by the European model (UHZ65UST). I've just chat with optoma France and they told me the UHZ65UST and P1 are different model, the UHZ65UST have 3500 lumens and 2 500 000:1 contrast ratio ( the P1 one have 3000 lumens and 1 500 000:1), they finally set an MSRP price of 3.299 € for France (It certainly should be the same elsewhere in europe)


----------



## f.c.g.

solal- said:


> For those in Europe interested by the European model (UHZ65UST). I've just chat with optoma France and they told me the UHZ65UST and P1 are different model, the UHZ65UST have 3500 lumens and 2 500 000:1 contrast ratio ( the P1 one have 3000 lumens and 1 500 000:1), they finally set an MSRP price of 3.299 € for France (It certainly should be the same elsewhere in europe)


any expected release date in europe? maybe October too?

Enviado desde mi POCOPHONE F1 mediante Tapatalk


----------



## copperfield74

solal- said:


> For those in Europe interested by the European model (UHZ65UST). I've just chat with optoma France and they told me the UHZ65UST and P1 are different model, the UHZ65UST have 3500 lumens and 2 500 000:1 contrast ratio ( the P1 one have 3000 lumens and 1 500 000:1), they finally set an MSRP price of 3.299 € for France (It certainly should be the same elsewhere in europe)


I'm curious if this is true. Here in Germany they advertise it with 3200 Lumens and 3995Euro (including VAT)


----------



## solal-

They told me they just changed the price to 3299 Euros MSRP who was before announced at 3999 Euros MSRP. For the lumens I found that strange too, you can see their reply on twitter ( https://twitter.com/OptomaFrance/status/1174959606365208576 ), they announced it for October but nothing precise yet.


----------



## Gae80uk

This is a bit confusing but certainly good news if happening


----------



## copperfield74

solal- said:


> They told me they just changed the price to 3299 Euros MSRP who was before announced at 3999 Euros MSRP. For the lumens I found that strange too, you can see their reply on twitter ( https://twitter.com/OptomaFrance/status/1174959606365208576 ), they announced it for October but nothing precise yet.


 That would be great news if the decide to lower the price and raise the lumens! I'm really looking forward to the release.
Thanks for the information.


Maybe I should follow the french Optoma page instead of the german.


----------



## Gae80uk

Just seen that confirmed on Optoma FR FB page! €3.299 release in Oct...woop woop! Check that out


----------



## Gae80uk

https://www.facebook.com/389223354478942/posts/2499654666769123/


----------



## kalle4242

copperfield74 said:


> That would be great news if the decide to lower the price and raise the lumens! I'm really looking forward to the release.
> Thanks for the information.
> 
> 
> Maybe I should follow the french Optoma page instead of the german.


Good idea . "Heimkinoraum" in Germany is still stuck on 3.999 EUR and I already left a comment on their board about the announcement of their French colleagues. Lets see what happens...


----------



## tambur123

solal- said:


> For those in Europe interested by the European model (UHZ65UST). I've just chat with optoma France and they told me the UHZ65UST and P1 are different model, the UHZ65UST have 3500 lumens and 2 500 000:1 contrast ratio ( the P1 one have 3000 lumens and 1 500 000:1), they finally set an MSRP price of 3.299 â‚¬ for France (It certainly should be the same elsewhere in europe)


Ohh wow! This is great 😀


----------



## ProjectionHead

maverick87r said:


> Any updates on ship date? I noticed that projector screen.com says 9/30.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Expected to ship out next week; it depends what time they arrive on Thursday or Friday to then be shipped out to customers.


----------



## copperfield74

I've contacted Optoma Germany on Facebook and asked if they have any news.
The only reply was :"There will be intresting news at the beginning of October." :frown:


----------



## chinmokutak

copperfield74 said:


> I've contacted Optoma Germany on Facebook and asked if they have any news.
> The only reply was :"There will be intresting news at the beginning of October." :frown:


I hope htis doesn't mean P1x announcement...


----------



## klas

P1 disappeared from Amazon, perhaps date got pushed, but it's odd that they would remove the listing entirely:

https://www.amazon.com/Optoma-CinemaX-P1-Projector-Integrated/dp/B07VDP29TX


----------



## imhotep6

That’s not good


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Kdub69

Should we all be worried that its going to be pushed back till dec?


----------



## Gae80uk

Maybe they are trying to upgrade the P1 to the EU version without creating all this mess? 🙄


----------



## juic-E-juice

klas said:


> P1 disappeared from Amazon, perhaps date got pushed, but it's odd that they would remove the listing entirely:
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Optoma-CinemaX-P1-Projector-Integrated/dp/B07VDP29TX




It’s there for me. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Burntwaxaudio

While all of us are waiting for the Optima P1 to launch, I found something very, very interesting and I thought I would share with you all. Go to google and type Optoma P1 Cinemax and do a search. Then click on the 2nd link for Optoma’s P1 site. There are two links to their website, and the websites are slightly different—— only one has this picture and it’s the 2nd link. 
Scroll down until you see the picture of the Optoma P1 surrounded by golden picture frames. Now look at the picture frame on the top left. It says: 2019, 12/12, December, Thursday. Could this be a new, later launch date??? The 12th of December 2019, is indeed a Thursday. And now look at the picture frame on the top right: It says 15 degrees. This would point towards winter weather (if interpreted as Fahrenheit).

Thought this post might stir up some conversation and investigation as we all wait for this amazing projector to be released. Thoughts everyone?


----------



## g4s

Burntwaxaudio said:


> While all of us are waiting for the Optima P1 to launch, I found something very, very interesting and I thought I would share with you all. Go to google and type Optoma P1 Cinemax and do a search. Then click on the 2nd link for Optoma’s P1 site. There are two links to their website, and the websites are slightly different—— only one has this picture and it’s the 2nd link.
> Scroll down until you see the picture of the Optoma P1 surrounded by golden picture frames. Now look at the picture frame on the top left. It says: 2019, 12/12, December, Thursday. Could this be a new, later launch date??? The 12th of December 2019, is indeed a Thursday. And now look at the picture frame on the top right: It says 15 degrees. This would point towards winter weather (if interpreted as Fahrenheit).
> 
> Thought this post might stir up some conversation and investigation as we all wait for this amazing projector to be released. Thoughts everyone?


I think it's just an example of the "InfoWall-Art Gallery Collection" with a random date. That sure would be a bummer though.


----------



## dawolv

g4s said:


> I think it's just an example of the "InfoWall-Art Gallery Collection" with a random date. That sure would be a bummer though.


Not sure if this is helpful or dated... but received this last week from ProjectorScreen.com as I ordered mine from them in early September:


_I wanted to let you know that we received an update from Optoma regarding the expected shipping date. Optoma is expecting to start shipping now on September 24th, about a week later than previously anticipated.
Optoma is also running a promotion where they will reward the first 200 people to leave a review for the P1 on their website with a $200 prepaid Visa Gift Card. Once they publish the form, we will send an updated email so that you can submit your review and hopefully win.
Since you had placed your order with us, you will be among the first in the country to receive your projectors and should have an advantage over many other people whom had purchased elsewhere.
We believe that Optoma has pushed the release date back to complete firmware updates on all units prior to shipping to ensure that all customers have fantastic experience, right out of the box and will leave them the positive reviews that they seek.
_


----------



## J Bone

Rug


Burntwaxaudio said:


> While all of us are waiting for the Optima P1 to launch, I found something very, very interesting and I thought I would share with you all. Go to google and type Optoma P1 Cinemax and do a search. Then click on the 2nd link for Optoma’s P1 site. There are two links to their website, and the websites are slightly different—— only one has this picture and it’s the 2nd link.
> 
> Scroll down until you see the picture of the Optoma P1 surrounded by golden picture frames. Now look at the picture frame on the top left. It says: 2019, 12/12, December, Thursday. Could this be a new, later launch date??? The 12th of December 2019, is indeed a Thursday. And now look at the picture frame on the top right: It says 15 degrees. This would point towards winter weather (if interpreted as Fahrenheit).
> 
> 
> 
> Thought this post might stir up some conversation and investigation as we all wait for this amazing projector to be released. Thoughts everyone?


Elementary.









Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## gollygosh




----------



## dawolv

gollygosh said:


> https://youtu.be/9SZ00cykFqc


The video reviews from the show are pretty impressive, even with the battery operated rolling screen. But the availability at least in the States appears to still be a few months away.

_The Epson LS500 Laser Projection TV will be available in the first quarter of 2020 through Magnolia and Professional Home Theater Installers. The Epson Laser Projection TV will be available in black and white models with 100-inch (MSRP $4,999) and 120-inch (MSRP $5,999) SKUs._


----------



## gollygosh

The price you quote on the Epson might be wrong along with the release date -
https://www.richersounds.com/tv-pro...t-throw-projectors/epson-eh-ls500b-black.html


In answer to the comment below - I was trying to show people fixated only on the P1, some of the potential competition. I was also looking at purchasing the P1 and thought it had no real competition - I'm glad to be proven wrong, it seems the UST space is filling up and from name brands. Also it is most definetly a UST.


----------



## klas

gollygosh said:


> The price you quote on the Epson might be wrong along with the release date -
> https://www.richersounds.com/tv-pro...t-throw-projectors/epson-eh-ls500b-black.html


You are in the wrong thread and this is no UST projector: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...8-epson-ls500-laser-projection-tv-2019-a.html


----------



## Gae80uk

On top of that, that Epson looks pretty ugly as well


----------



## Tuan

Burntwaxaudio said:


> While all of us are waiting for the Optima P1 to launch, I found something very, very interesting and I thought I would share with you all. Go to google and type Optoma P1 Cinemax and do a search. Then click on the 2nd link for Optomaâ€™️s P1 site. There are two links to their website, and the websites are slightly differentâ€”â€” only one has this picture and itâ€™️s the 2nd link.
> Scroll down until you see the picture of the Optoma P1 surrounded by golden picture frames. Now look at the picture frame on the top left. It says: 2019, 12/12, December, Thursday. Could this be a new, later launch date??? The 12th of December 2019, is indeed a Thursday. And now look at the picture frame on the top right: It says 15 degrees. This would point towards winter weather (if interpreted as Fahrenheit).
> 
> Thought this post might stir up some conversation and investigation as we all wait for this amazing projector to be released. Thoughts everyone?


Wow, that's a stretch of a conspiracy theory 😛. One was the preview / teaser page, the other is the actual product page. My team worked on both of those pages. The product page has the specs and datasheet available for download, the teaser does not. Theree is no delay until December.


----------



## Burntwaxaudio

Hey folks my apologies, once I read up about Info Wall I realized this is just a picture of how it works. Doh!!! Egg on my face!


----------



## gollygosh

https://www.hometheaterforum.com/optoma-takes-orders-for-cinemax-p1-all-in-one-entertainment-system/


----------



## klas

gollygosh said:


> https://www.hometheaterforum.com/optoma-takes-orders-for-cinemax-p1-all-in-one-entertainment-system/


You redeemed yourself for those Epson posts!


----------



## imhotep6

ProjectionHead said:


> Expected to ship out next week; it depends what time they arrive on Thursday or Friday to then be shipped out to customers.




Any updates on shipping?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dawolv

Optoma Cinemax P1 back on Amazon so hopefully that is a good sign!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VDP29TX?ref=em_1p_0_ti&ref_=pe_2313370_436979640


----------



## Kdub69

Its back on amazon.ca and amazon.com except its a different seller than amazon right now my original pre-order from amazon prime from amazon.ca is dated to be shipped October 30th-Dec 8th its still hasn’t changed.... hoping it will change I will let everyone know if it ships early from amazon.ca


----------



## Knolly

ProjectionHead, any chance you can share if the P1's remote is IR or something else? I want to make sure it plays nicely with my Harmony. Thanks!


----------



## g4s

Knolly said:


> ProjectionHead, any chance you can share if the P1's remote is IR or something else? I want to make sure it plays nicely with my Harmony. Thanks!


On the data sheet it lists it as Bluetooth. "Bluetooth smart home remote with Airmouse (rechargeable)"


----------



## Knolly

g4s said:


> On the data sheet it lists it as Bluetooth. "Bluetooth smart home remote with Airmouse (rechargeable)"


Well spotted, thanks! Hopefully Logitech adds support for the P1.


----------



## ProjectionHead

**Update**
P1s are expected to leave Optoma tomorrow to select dealers. Optoma has sold out and you should expect that most resellers will sell out very quickly, if they have not already.
We are looking at a potential 5 week lead time before more units hit the states.
If your dealer still has units available (and confirmed on the way from Optoma) I would strongly suggest placing that order ASAP if you don't want to wait for the next wave.


----------



## ProjectionHead

dawolv said:


> Optoma Cinemax P1 back on Amazon so hopefully that is a good sign!
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VDP29TX?ref=em_1p_0_ti&ref_=pe_2313370_436979640


Honestly, I'm surprised Amazon hasn't already sold out of these. If you have pre-orered from them, please keep us up to date if they are still expected to be shipping out next week or if they are turning orders into "backordered" status. If backordered it could be at least another 5 weeks before the next batch arrives in the USA.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Tuan said:


> Wow, that's a stretch of a conspiracy theory 😛. One was the preview / teaser page, the other is the actual product page. My team worked on both of those pages. The product page has the specs and datasheet available for download, the teaser does not. Theree is no delay until December.


lol, get your tin foil hat ready!
on a side note; you guys did a great job putting that page together!


----------



## Koeikan

Any chance the (assumed) moratorium ends prior to release?


----------



## ProjectionHead

Koeikan said:


> Any chance the (assumed) moratorium ends prior to release?


What do you mean?


----------



## klas

ProjectionHead said:


> Honestly, I'm surprised Amazon hasn't already sold out of these. If you have pre-orered from them, please keep us up to date if they are still expected to be shipping out next week or if they are turning orders into "backordered" status. If backordered it could be at least another 5 weeks before the next batch arrives in the USA.


Did Optoma build 10 of these? Since when people are rushing to drop $3.5k on this


----------



## Koeikan

ProjectionHead said:


> What do you mean?


I haven't seen any in depth reviews yet (measurements, calibrations, comparisons, etc). Saw a couple that were _really _high level, but didn't go into specifics/measurements/etc or other details (IE: focusing on the sound bar aspect more than the projection aspect).

I assumed (perhaps mistakenly) it was due to a moratorium on reviewers and we wouldn't see anything more in depth until that was lifted... but curious when that will be (or if there is another reason we haven't seen those types of reviews so far... or maybe I missed them).


----------



## ProjectionHead

klas said:


> Did Optoma build 10 of these? Since when people are rushing to drop $3.5k on this


This has been one of the most anticipated projectors of the year. There has been no shortage of people placing their pre-orders and once finally released I'm certain the volume will only increase.

Optoma obviously underestimated the demand for this first shipment; hopefully they really ramp it up for the next wave.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Koeikan said:


> I haven't seen any in depth reviews yet (measurements, calibrations, comparisons, etc). Saw a couple that were _really _high level, but didn't go into specifics/measurements/etc or other details (IE: focusing on the sound bar aspect more than the projection aspect).
> 
> I assumed (perhaps mistakenly) it was due to a moratorium on reviewers and we wouldn't see anything more in depth until that was lifted... but curious when that will be (or if there is another reason we haven't seen those types of reviews so far... or maybe I missed them).


No moratorium reviews; just a lack of final production models into the reviewers hands. You should start seeing those reviews starting to be published as early as next week.


----------



## klas

ProjectionHead said:


> This has been one of the most anticipated projectors of the year. There has been no shortage of people placing their pre-orders and once finally released I'm certain the volume will only increase.
> 
> Optoma obviously underestimated the demand for this first shipment; hopefully they really ramp it up for the next wave.


I put in my order with Amazon, says delivery on 10/3...


----------



## ProjectionHead

klas said:


> I put in my order with Amazon, says delivery on 10/3...


Hopefully it doesn't turn into a backorder; keep us posted.
I know that some specialty shops still have unallocated units and have not sold out yet as well and are offering other incentives to beat Amazon.
Good Luck!


----------



## chinmokutak

ProjectionHead said:


> No moratorium reviews; just a lack of final production models into the reviewers hands. You should start seeing those reviews starting to be published as early as next week.


coming from consumer electronics market, this lack of information seems extremely interesting... usually the market is filled with review/information even if reviewers only had review unit.
Is this norm in projector market? Do everyone just wait until the production units to become available


----------



## klas

chinmokutak said:


> ProjectionHead said:
> 
> 
> 
> No moratorium reviews; just a lack of final production models into the reviewers hands. You should start seeing those reviews starting to be published as early as next week.
> 
> 
> 
> coming from consumer electronics market, this lack of information seems extremely interesting... usually the market is filled with review/information even if reviewers only had review unit.
> Is this norm in projector market? Do everyone just wait until the production units to become available
Click to expand...

What are comparing to? Small, mass produced electronics, TVs? Every company or product has different process done there is no golden standard. 

Perhaps they were running late tweaking firmware and didn't want anyone review unfinished product.

Also we can speculate that product is so good that they want to keep it low key so that people won't stop buying their other projectors or if it's bad they don't want others to review it before shipping. Of course then they will be flooded with returns. Notice how Amazon has "Free return" on it just like on clothing where you can return it for any reason even if you simply don't like it.


----------



## Gae80uk

Teaser of the UHZ65UST (P1) to be released in Oct 

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=2521064781294778&id=389223354478942

It's coming


----------



## roodof

so what are my screen options for the P1? Has to be ust/alr right? Someone offer electrical one to drop down in front of my 75" tv,that would be cool


----------



## klas

roodof said:


> so what are my screen options for the P1? Has to be ust/alr right? Someone offer electrical one to drop down in front of my 75" tv,that would be cool


No, it's recommended but if you are not going to watch in daylight or ambient light then you can go with any cheapo white screen. I've gotten by without ALR screen with my UST, but certainly wanting to get one in the future. Motorized ALR seem to be almost as much as the P1 itself though.


----------



## Kdub69

klas said:


> ProjectionHead said:
> 
> 
> 
> This has been one of the most anticipated projectors of the year. There has been no shortage of people placing their pre-orders and once finally released I'm certain the volume will only increase.
> 
> Optoma obviously underestimated the demand for this first shipment; hopefully they really ramp it up for the next wave.
> 
> 
> 
> I put in my order with Amazon, says delivery on 10/3...
Click to expand...


Is that from amazon.com or amazon.ca?


----------



## klas

Kdub69 said:


> Is that from amazon.com or amazon.ca?


com


----------



## chinmokutak

klas said:


> What are comparing to? Small, mass produced electronics, TVs? Every company or product has different process done there is no golden standard.
> 
> Perhaps they were running late tweaking firmware and didn't want anyone review unfinished product.
> 
> Also we can speculate that product is so good that they want to keep it low key so that people won't stop buying their other projectors or if it's bad they don't want others to review it before shipping. Of course then they will be flooded with returns. Notice how Amazon has "Free return" on it just like on clothing where you can return it for any reason even if you simply don't like it.


Most of consumer electronics including TVs, phone, or laptops, reviewers often have either production unit or dev unit for them to review. 
and I don't really know why would they even entertain the idea of keeping it low key considering they want to hype it up. The only thing I can think of was that they had issues with quality control of pre-production...


----------



## klas

chinmokutak said:


> Most of consumer electronics including TVs, phone, or laptops, reviewers often have either production unit or dev unit for them to review.
> and I don't really know why would they even entertain the idea of keeping it low key considering they want to hype it up. The only thing I can think of was that they had issues with quality control of pre-production...


They also would rather pay you $200 to review it after release... which was odd...


----------



## f.c.g.

i am thinking about sound setup for my central speaker...

P1 is so big that it will fill the depth of the stand so it seems impossible to place central speaker in front of it.

how are you thinking your audio setup? maybe it is possible to use p1 speaker as central one of home cinema?

Enviado desde mi POCOPHONE F1 mediante Tapatalk


----------



## CarlosLehder

my current stand has a height of 22", with the center channel inside the stand. I have a 110" electric screen that drops down to 1/4" above the stand. I've been looking at 100" alr screens for the P1. If I end up needing to lower the media stand so the screen isn't too high I was going to mount the center channel on the wall below the screen.


----------



## g4s

f.c.g. said:


> i am thinking about sound setup for my central speaker...
> 
> P1 is so big that it will fill the depth of the stand so it seems impossible to place central speaker in front of it.
> 
> how are you thinking your audio setup? maybe it is possible to use p1 speaker as central one of home cinema?
> 
> Enviado desde mi POCOPHONE F1 mediante Tapatalk


I made this small stand, pictured here with my oversized center channel. If I have room, I'll raise the speaker up as high as possible. Probably only an inch or so.
I'm going to get the projector up and running, then mark out where I need to drill a hole for wires in the stand and get the wire management mess taken care of.


----------



## chinmokutak

f.c.g. said:


> i am thinking about sound setup for my central speaker...
> 
> P1 is so big that it will fill the depth of the stand so it seems impossible to place central speaker in front of it.
> 
> how are you thinking your audio setup? maybe it is possible to use p1 speaker as central one of home cinema?
> 
> Enviado desde mi POCOPHONE F1 mediante Tapatalk


I think many people here have media stand. Puts the P1 on the top, center speaker will sit inside or in front of media stand.


----------



## roodof

can the p1 soundbar be wired as the center speaker?


----------



## AV_Integrated

roodof said:


> so what are my screen options for the P1? Has to be ust/alr right? Someone offer electrical one to drop down in front of my 75" tv,that would be cool


This is a common mistake.

ALR/UST screens are not required for UST projectors. You will want to be aware that you want a highly diffuse screen with any UST projector so you don't get major reflections onto the ceiling. But, a screen like the Silver Ticket in their white material actually is rated for use with UST projectors.

You MUST use a tab-tensioned screen if using a retractable screen. Quality models with standard material start at about $2,000. They go up from there rather swiftly, so plan your budget accordingly. I would just ditch the 75" TV and move it elsewhere and get a 120" ALR screen for full time usage if I got this projector in my family room.

I'm hoping that I can get a demo model for some testing of the P1 with a Silver Ticket screen that I can show in my basement (light controlled) and family room (open design) for testing/review purposes.


----------



## AV_Integrated

roodof said:


> can the p1 soundbar be wired as the center speaker?


This is not the first time I've heard this question and it deserves to be answered.

My guess is that 'NO' you can't use it as a center channel. Which begs the question as to WHY it wasn't designed to be used that way as it is a very logical step.

You can't set this projector onto another speaker. It must be physically isolated from the movement of a speaker, which is why the internal speakers are decoupled from the projection engine.

So, a lot of home owners who are looking to upgrade from the internal stereo to add a full surround sound system would likely love to utilize these speakers as a center.

It would have taken some thought and some planning to go this route, but I would be absolutely shocked if they did so.


----------



## Tuan

Koeikan said:


> ProjectionHead said:
> 
> 
> 
> What do you mean?
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't seen any in depth reviews yet (measurements, calibrations, comparisons, etc). Saw a couple that were _really _high level, but didn't go into specifics/measurements/etc or other details (IE: focusing on the sound bar aspect more than the projection aspect).
> 
> I assumed (perhaps mistakenly) it was due to a moratorium on reviewers and we wouldn't see anything more in depth until that was lifted... but curious when that will be (or if there is another reason we haven't seen those types of reviews so far... or maybe I missed them).
Click to expand...

There is no embargo on reviews, we just haven't sent any units out yet. Press units will go out shortly.


----------



## klas

Tuan said:


> There is no embargo on reviews, we just haven't sent any units out yet. Press units will go out shortly.


Please tell us the unit is super quiet? That's all I care 🙂


----------



## chinmokutak

klas said:


> Please tell us the unit is super quiet? That's all I care 🙂


really out of everything that projector offers, the only thing you care about is noise


----------



## klas

chinmokutak said:


> klas said:
> 
> 
> 
> Please tell us the unit is super quiet? That's all I care 🙂
> 
> 
> 
> really out of everything that projector offers, the only thing you care about is noise /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
Click to expand...

Because that's the only biggest negative I have with my Xiaomi.


----------



## ProjectionHead

AV_Integrated said:


> This is not the first time I've heard this question and it deserves to be answered.
> 
> My guess is that 'NO' you can't use it as a center channel. Which begs the question as to WHY it wasn't designed to be used that way as it is a very logical step.
> 
> You can't set this projector onto another speaker. It must be physically isolated from the movement of a speaker, which is why the internal speakers are decoupled from the projection engine.
> 
> So, a lot of home owners who are looking to upgrade from the internal stereo to add a full surround sound system would likely love to utilize these speakers as a center.
> 
> It would have taken some thought and some planning to go this route, but I would be absolutely shocked if they did so.


It cannot. I believe that has already been shared in this thread.


----------



## TimHuey

klas said:


> Please tell us the unit is super quiet? That's all I care 🙂


You sound like a man on the edge lol. I hope you don't own a gun. I think your xiaomi would be very very nervous. Maybe it would quiet down.


----------



## chinmokutak

klas said:


> Because that's the only biggest negative I have with my Xiaomi.


can't you put your xiaomi in an exclosure that would decrease the noise significantly>?


----------



## klas

TimHuey said:


> You sound like a man on the edge lol. I hope you don't own a gun. I think your xiaomi would be very very nervous. Maybe it would quiet down.


heh... you sound like it has worked for you and probably done time for it. Projectors now go silent when you enter the room?


----------



## klas

chinmokutak said:


> can't you put your xiaomi in an exclosure that would decrease the noise significantly>?


You could probably, I have seen a video of someone building a box for it, but you will need really good ventilation. Since UST is meant to be for living room I don't want ugly box there though. Hopefully P1 won't be an issue.

Here is the video of the noise all Xiaomi make, that high pitch sound which isn't the fan noise that's annoying. And yes, you can hear that high pitch at all distances not just when the camera next to it.


----------



## TimHuey

Wow. I thought it was gonna start a takeoff roll.


----------



## g4s

Yeah, that coil whine is really annoying. Hope the P1 doesn't have any.


----------



## klas

g4s said:


> Yeah, that coil whine is really annoying. Hope the P1 doesn't have any.


Exactly, a bit of fan noise is fine, but if there is even a hint of whine it's going back. With Xiaomi I've managed to live with it considering its low price, but not on a 3k+ unit.


----------



## Gae80uk

@ProjectionHead the P1 demo unit you tried was quite or a bit noisy?


----------



## solal-

The doc is now available on the Optoma website ( https://www.optoma.com/us/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/CinemaX-P1_UM.pdf )


----------



## Gae80uk

solal- said:


> The doc is now available on the Optoma website ( https://www.optoma.com/us/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/CinemaX-P1_UM.pdf )


Link doesn't work for me...:I


----------



## chakrapani siruvuri

Gae80uk said:


> Link doesn't work for me...:I


Works for me!!!


----------



## ProjectionHead

Gae80uk said:


> @ProjectionHead the P1 demo unit you tried was quite or a bit noisy?


The unit we played with was NOTHING like how that Xioami sounded. It not not audible from several feet away with no audio playing.


----------



## Gae80uk

chakrapani siruvuri said:


> Works for me!!!


Yep, working now


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## chinmokutak

solal- said:


> The doc is now available on the Optoma website ( https://www.optoma.com/us/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/CinemaX-P1_UM.pdf )


Damn it! I'm super worried about the lack of reviews, yet Optoma knows how to keep me hiped with these slow release of information


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## chakrapani siruvuri

chinmokutak said:


> Damn it! I'm super worried about the lack of reviews, yet Optoma knows how to keep me hiped with these slow release of information


I am ready with the Smart Fit app installed on my phone


----------



## klas

chinmokutak said:


> Damn it! I'm super worried about the lack of reviews, yet Optoma knows how to keep me hiped with these slow release of information


The floodgates are about to open


----------



## g4s

Looks like the screen height can vary from from one P1 to another. From 16"-21" from the stand to bottom of the screen if I'm understanding the numbers in the manual.
That's for a 120" inch screen.


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## klas

ProjectionHead said:


> The unit we played with was NOTHING like how that Xioami sounded. It not not audible from several feet away with no audio playing.


that's good to hear!


----------



## Kdub69

Hi everyone what would be the ideal eye level to the center of a 100inch screen is it 44”? If there is a link or information please link it below thanks!


----------



## ProjectionHead

Knolly said:


> ProjectionHead, any chance you can share if the P1's remote is IR or something else? I want to make sure it plays nicely with my Harmony. Thanks!


I was just informed that the remote is both IR and Bluetooth.

_"The remote will automatically switch to IR if the Power Mode of CinemaX P1 is set to Eco (Standby). On the launcher (home screen) go to Settings > Power > Power Mode (Standby) > Smart Home. This will keep the remote in Bluetooth mode."_


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## roodof

ProjectionHead said:


> I was just informed that the remote is both IR and Bluetooth.
> 
> _"The remote will automatically switch to IR if the Power Mode of CinemaX P1 is set to Eco (Standby). On the launcher (home screen) go to Settings > Power > Power Mode (Standby) > Smart Home. This will keep the remote in Bluetooth mode."_


you seem to be the man in the know,i'm a novice considering the p1 but I have no clue as to what screen to consider,silver or white or gray,motorized? would appreciate your input


----------



## Casey_Bryson

roodof said:


> you seem to be the man in the know,i'm a novice considering the p1 but I have no clue as to what screen to consider,silver or white or gray,motorized? would appreciate your input



This has been covered here before. (Brian can correct me, but...) While you can use a standard white, silver, or gray screen with a 1.0 or higher gain, it's best to use a negative gain screen designed for UST projectors like PET Crystal CLR screen or Fresnel screen. You'll get better contrast with either and avoid reflections on the ceiling and bounce back from the walls for again better blacks and a perceivable brighter image. The most common size is 100" but you'll also find 120" for a slight premium. Fresnel is very expensive, but the better blacks can be obtained with it. Motorized with tensioned screens are available with CLR if you need it. 

You can get samples of each if you like, but you'll be surprised just how much better the CLR screens are. They are worth every penny of the $500 to $800 premium (in general).


----------



## chinmokutak

ProjectionHead said:


> **Update**
> P1s are expected to leave Optoma tomorrow to select dealers. Optoma has sold out and you should expect that most resellers will sell out very quickly, if they have not already.
> We are looking at a potential 5 week lead time before more units hit the states.
> If your dealer still has units available (and confirmed on the way from Optoma) I would strongly suggest placing that order ASAP if you don't want to wait for the next wave.


Hi, just wondering if you received any units, if so you can share your experience with it?


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## chinmokutak

anyone know how 3d glasses will work on this projector? Are they going to sell it as accessories?


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## marco1475

ProjectionHead said:


> The unit we played with was NOTHING like how that Xioami sounded. It not not audible from several feet away with no audio playing.


I'm really hoping the double negative ("not not audible") was a typo and not on purpose :devil:


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## klas

marco1475 said:


> I'm really hoping the double negative ("not not audible") was a typo and not on purpose :devil:


Actually according to the comment where ProjectorReviews responded in this video 



 sounds like it will be noisy using 4k mode.



> Like most 4K UHDs it is on the noisy side, and the hum went away in Silence mode if I recall. But that reduces the Optoma to a 1080p projector.


That "hum" comment is not good news, but we'll find out next week I hope


----------



## ProjectionHead

chinmokutak said:


> Hi, just wondering if you received any units, if so you can share your experience with it?


They are on their way from Optoma and expected to arrive next week. Woop-woop!


----------



## ProjectionHead

marco1475 said:


> I'm really hoping the double negative ("not not audible") was a typo and not on purpose :devil:


lol, it was a typo. good catch


----------



## ProjectionHead

Casey_Bryson said:


> This has been covered here before. (Brian can correct me, but...) While you can use a standard white, silver, or gray screen with a 1.0 or higher gain, it's best to use a negative gain screen designed for UST projectors like PET Crystal CLR screen or Fresnel screen. You'll get better contrast with either and avoid reflections on the ceiling and bounce back from the walls for again better blacks and a perceivable brighter image. The most common size is 100" but you'll also find 120" for a slight premium. Fresnel is very expensive, but the better blacks can be obtained with it. Motorized with tensioned screens are available with CLR if you need it.
> 
> You can get samples of each if you like, but you'll be surprised just how much better the CLR screens are. They are worth every penny of the $500 to $800 premium (in general).


That is correct, using the lower gain ALR UST surfaces will give you the best image and allow for enjoyment as a "TV replacement" in more highly lit environments.
The brands and surfaces that I am familiar with that I can confirm will resolve 4k+ pixels are Screen Innovations (Short Throw), Da-lite (Parallax UST) and Grandview (Dynamique).
We were not able to resolve square 4k pixels on the same of the Elite Screens CLR (Starbright). We are awaiting our sample from Elunevision with their new UST ALR material but do expect it to resolve 4K.

You can use a traditional surface with these projectors however you will have some hefty light scatter up on the ceiling due to the steep angle of the projector and the nature of how traditional surface diffuse light.

You can NOT use a traditional ALR material as it will negate the light coming from the UST projector.

Here is a link to some confirmed 4K UST ALR options


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## ProjectionHead

Ok, I have some good news and some bad news.

Good news: The P1s are on their way from Optoma to select specialty resellers. They should be landing next week and in customer's hands shortly!

Bad news: The P1s built in Netflix, Hulu and Amazon apps will only stream in 480p. Yes, that is right, 480p. It will stream Youtube however in 1080p and 4K.

I was totally taken back by this as it was assumed it was only the android interface resolving at 480p but it is now confirmed that those streaming apps are only in 480p. 

Why would they even include those apps if they are limited to 480p? Beats the heck out of me! Fortunately you can use your own streaming device such as a Roku, Chromecast, Firestick, etc to stream in 4K but that is just another expense and remote control to deal with.

I know, I know, it doesn't make any sense. Hopefully this is the only unpleasant surprise that we get regarding this unit.

_** I do not work for Optoma, nor do I have anything to do with the built in apps or the decision to include them at 480p. Please do not shoot the messenger. I included an attachment that I found online showing the difference between 480p and 4k as an example, but I cannot vouch for it's accuracy_


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## g4s

ProjectionHead said:


> Ok, I have some good news and some bad news.
> 
> Good news: The P1s are on their way from Optoma to select specialty resellers. They should be landing next week and in customer's hands shortly!
> 
> Bad news: The P1s built in Netflix, Hulu and Amazon apps will only stream in 480p. Yes, that is right, 480p. It will stream Youtube however in 1080p and 4K.
> 
> I was totally taken back by this as it was assumed it was only the android interface resolving at 480p but it is now confirmed that those streaming apps are only in 480p.
> 
> Why would they even include those apps if they are limited to 480p? Beats the heck out of me! Fortunately you can use your own streaming device such as a Roku, Chromecast, Firestick, etc to stream in 4K but that is just another expense and remote control to deal with.
> 
> I know, I know, it doesn't make any sense. Hopefully this is the only unpleasant surprise that we get regarding this unit.
> 
> _** I do not work for Optoma, nor do I have anything to do with the built in apps or the decision to include them at 480p. Please do not shoot the messenger. I included an attachment that I found online showing the difference between 480p and 4k as an example, but I cannot vouch for it's accuracy_


That resolution problem must have something to do with some licensing issues?


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## ProjectionHead

g4s said:


> That resolution problem must have something to do with some licensing issues?


Quite possibly.


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## bix26

g4s said:


> That resolution problem must have something to do with some licensing issues?




Most likely. Android is very easy to root, hack, mod due to its open source nature. Besides these smart tv apps are usually glitchy poorly coded crap anyway. Considering Roku or Amazon hdmi sticks are less than $100 bucks it’s not exactly a deal breaker for most people imo. Most of the Chinese UST’s have the same issue. It kind of makes me laugh that some of the people on the owners threads for those pj’s have spent hours trying to find work arounds or even returned their pj’s because of the same issue.


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## klas

ProjectionHead said:


> Bad news: The P1s built in Netflix, Hulu and Amazon apps will only stream in 480p. Yes, that is right, 480p. It will stream Youtube however in 1080p and 4K.


Oh, fudge! I was hoping to retire my Nvidia shield 2015 which I only use for Netflix. At least there is hope that they may increase resolution at some point? Xiaomi doesn't even have those apps built-in.


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## g4s

Doesn't bother me. I don't stream anything but some Youtube channels I follow. 
OTA local channels, physical media and about 16TB of media files from a Mac Mini server are my main sources here.


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## Kdub69

Optoma p1 is over 4k canadian im sure people with that kind of money can afford a $50 firestick


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## klas

Kdub69 said:


> Optoma p1 is over 4k canadian im sure people with that kind of money can afford a $50 firestick


Not about $50... I was really looking forward to not have dongles sticking out of it... what's the point of advertising built in Android smart tv apps when they are crippled versions.


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## chinmokutak

I can't believe people actually use the built in app... I would rather it to be dumb device the only input coming from receiver. But that's just me..


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## diggumsmax

Huh, I posted about the 480p on September 7th, guess people didn't believe me. I'm pretty sure it was in the fine print on Optoma's website. but I was always planning to use my Xbox one X is my media player. It would have been better if they had just built in a Roku but that probably wasn't possible as it appears they have a pretty sweet deal with TLC. Still though, for this price everything should be 4k.

I like how Vizio did apps on their TV sets. Just an HTML 5 web interface. They let the individual streaming companies handle anything regarding updates on the back end. The apps on my Vizio have only gotten better over time and not just dropped and not because the next year model came out. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## diggumsmax

roodof said:


> you seem to be the man in the know,i'm a novice considering the p1 but I have no clue as to what screen to consider,silver or white or gray,motorized? would appreciate your input


As others have stated their is a lot of info in this thread. Essentially it you want to get the best picture your going to need a UST screen. I would say the one exception is if you have a bat cave with no to extremely little ambient light.

It really comes down to three choices, CLR, ALR, and Fresnel. DNP seems is the best for Fresnel but XY screens makes them also. I couldn't even find a price on fresnel which probably means it's extremely expensive. Fresnel seems by far the best but their are a few drawbacks. Viewing angle and hot spotting seemed to be the biggest drawbacks. Fresnel is also a hard screen, meaning it can't be rolled up and currently they are limited to 100 inches. There are a few videos on YouTube if you search for "Fresnel projector screen".

For most people that leaves CLR and ALR. CLR only blocks light from above, it does not do any ambient light rejection from the side. ALR does both. The cheapest are CLR. XY screens is the cheapest. Elite screens makes them as well but they cost a bit more. Snow White and silver ticket are some other options.

ALR can get expensive quick. The ones with the most name recognition are SI (screen Innovations) and the da lite parallax. I'm about positive at this point that I'm going with Grandview. It's ALR and appears to be the only middle ground option unless you have the money for SI or Da-lite.

It's hard to justify paying more for the screen than the actual projector. With that said, screens will last you way longer than the projector but if you want a projector in the future that isn't UST, then you will need a new screen. SI is the only one that has ALR motorized screens so your probably going to have to stick with fixed frame. 

I've never actually seen any of these screens in person. This is all based of my research for the last few months. I was going to drive four hours to see a demo but I just ended up discussing it with projector screen. Brian was extremely helpful in describing the pros and cons between the various types of screens. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## ProjectionHead

diggumsmax said:


> Huh, I posted about the 480p on September 7th, guess people didn't believe me. I'm pretty sure it was in the fine print on Optoma's website. but I was always planning to use my Xbox one X is my media player. It would have been better if they had just built in a Roku but that probably wasn't possible as it appears they have a pretty sweet deal with TLC. Still though, for this price everything should be 4k.
> 
> I like how Vizio did apps on their TV sets. Just an HTML 5 web interface. They let the individual streaming companies handle anything regarding updates on the back end. The apps on my Vizio have only gotten better over time and not just dropped and not because the next year model came out.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


There was speculation @ Optoma that the 480p was just for the menu and not the apps. I couldn't get a confirmation until the other day when I posted the update.

It's not that we didn't believe you, its that we didn't WANT to believe you


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## klas

chinmokutak said:


> I can't believe people actually use the built in app... I would rather it to be dumb device the only input coming from receiver. But that's just me..


You don't get it. Xiaomi UST has vanilla Android built in, pretty much same exact look as what Nvidia shield as well as same built in apps YouTube, Kodi, app store etc... except the app store in Xiaomi lacks Amazon Prime and Netflix. No I would not use built in stuff if it wasn't stock Android


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## diggumsmax

ProjectionHead said:


> There was speculation @ Optoma that the 480p was just for the menu and not the apps. I couldn't get a confirmation until the other day when I posted the update.
> 
> 
> 
> It's not that we didn't believe you, its that we didn't WANT to believe you


Ha, completely understandable. I didn't want them to be either. A while back I caught an article saying YouTube could do 4K but Netflix, hula, ect.. would be limited to 480p. I'm wondering about other apps were licensing may not be an issue. I use Plex a lot and noticed it's available in the Optoma marketplace. I'm hoping Plex won't be limited to 480p but I will have to wait and find out.. I'm also hoping that the P1 can handle H.265 as well as H.264 decoding via USB. 

As a side note the new Epson LS500 UST projector seems intriguing but won't be out until early next year. As far as I know it's one of the first UST projector that uses LCD instead of DLP. It looks like they had to do some lens trickery to accomplish as it does not look like the various DLP ones due to the lens bulge.

Not trying to derail the thread but it's just more proof that UST technology will only improve over time. The downside is appears they are trying to bundle it with a CLR/ALR screen but I can't find the brand so it could be a sub par screen. That and the throw distance is slightly farther. I believe they said two and a half feet for 120. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## klas

diggumsmax said:


> As a side note the new Epson LS500 UST projector seems intriguing but won't be out until early next year.


Epson missed the opportunity with LS500 intentionally or not to make UST, its a short throw projector


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## diggumsmax

klas said:


> Epson missed the opportunity with LS500 intentionally or not to make UST, its a short throw projector


If I'm understanding you correctly your saying it's just short throw, not ultra short throw? Epson is claiming it's UST on their website. Regardless I don't want to derail the thread. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## smajumdar

What is ideal table/media height are you guys looking at? I ordered a 100” PET crystal alr screen.


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## diggumsmax

smajumdar said:


> What is ideal table/media height are you guys looking at? I ordered a 100” PET crystal alr screen.


Screen height * .24 . A 100 inch screen has a height of 49 inches. 49x.24 is 11.76 from the the table the pj is going to sit on to the bottom of the image. You can round down to the nearest inch. Projector screen has a good diagram to go by. 

I have another inquiry though that hopefully projectorhead can answer based of his limited time with the P1. The diagram says you get roughly an inch due to the adjustable feet. Due to the P1 having zero pixel shift, does this effect picture quality? It's been a while since I've purchased a new PJ but keystone correction can degrade picture quality. Is this still true? Would it be ideal to have everything 100 percent level? 

I've seen the app for screen correction but it still seems like you would want to line this up perfectly if possible unless keystone correction has gotten much better over the last few years. My last two PJ's had lens shift so I had a little bit of wiggle room. 


Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## arron.rouse

klas said:


> Epson missed the opportunity with LS500 intentionally or not to make UST, its a short throw projector


With the maximum screen size of 120", according to the respective manuals, the front of the P1 will be 75.3cm from the screen and the front of the LS500 will be 89.2cm. A difference of 13.9cm is not exactly a deal breaker for most people and definitely still counts as UST.


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## kalle4242

Somebody reseller in Malaysia posted some new pictures of the Optoma P1 on FB with some shots of 4K footage - looks like its coming now 

Though I can´t posts links yet: Just go to FB and search for "Love Ur Sound" - its the first posting.

There is also some (older) video footage in the FB page


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## klas

arron.rouse said:


> With the maximum screen size of 120", according to the respective manuals, the front of the P1 will be 75.3cm from the screen and the front of the LS500 will be 89.2cm. A difference of 13.9cm is not exactly a deal breaker for most people and definitely still counts as UST.


Lets put it into perspective for 120" size these are the distances you are looking:

Xiaomi Mija ~13" inches from the wall to the back of projector, total length from wall to front of projector ~26"
Optoma P1 ~14." inches from the wall to the back of projector, total length from wall to front projector ~29"
Epson LS500 is 20.5" inches from the wall to the back of projector, total length from wall to front projector ~35"

Less 30" is manageable for most, beyond that it's going to get on the way. For 100" you can easily put P1 or Mija on most existing tv stands, but not so much with LS500 which is marketed as "tv replacement". So the question is it really "Ultra"? I don't think so.


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## roodof

opinions please in regards to using the P1 with the Silver Ticket ST2-169100- UST


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## MiguePizar

Hey guys, I have the money to buy right now the optoma p1. How probable is that there will be some discount or coupons in the next days and weeks after launched? And, it will be much of a difference between the optoma p1 and the Xiaomi Mijia Laser Projector?


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## bix26

arron.rouse said:


> With the maximum screen size of 120", according to the respective manuals, the front of the P1 will be 75.3cm from the screen and the front of the LS500 will be 89.2cm. A difference of 13.9cm is not exactly a deal breaker for most people and definitely still counts as UST.




Just for my fellow Mercan’s I thought I’d translate to freedom units. That is a difference of about 5.5”s. On top of that, I believe that’s the measurement from the lens. The Epson’s lens is about right in the middle of the housing, so you’d likely have an additional 8-9” from the front of the housing to the wall compared to most UST’s. My UST has a .23:1 TR vs Epson’s .29:1 TR. I already have mine UST nearly 3’ away from the wall and my credenza is only 2’ deep, I wouldn’t upgrade if I had to place my credenza any further away than it already is. I do agree it’s still fair to call the LS500 a UST, it’s TR is a deal breaker to me.


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## klas

bix26 said:


> Just for my fellow Mercan’s I thought I’d translate to freedom units. That is a difference of about 5.5”s. On top of that, I believe that’s the measurement from the lens. The Epson’s lens is about right in the middle of the housing, so you’d likely have an additional 8-9” from the front of the housing to the wall compared to most UST’s. My UST has a .23:1 TR vs Epson’s .29:1 TR. I already have mine UST nearly 3’ away from the wall and my credenza is only 2’ deep, I wouldn’t upgrade if I had to place my credenza any further away than it already is. I do agree it’s still fair to call the LS500 a UST, it’s TR is a deal breaker to me.


For USTs inches make big difference. My Xiaomi sits about 2' from the wall to the front, P1 appears will need a few more inches but anything beyond that is going to be ridiculous for placement unless anyone considers to mount LS500 on the ceiling. Of course there is no standard for what is really considered UST, but I am almost certain people who would be buying Epson because of their "UST" marketing will be highly disappointed with 35"+ distance from the wall to front needed.

This is a good chart that shows the LS500 distance. 75cm (to lens) + 15cm (from lens to front) = 90 cm or 35.5" from the wall to front that you need for 120"


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## Gae80uk

@kalle4242 nice catch! P1 4k footage shots look great...getting really excited now


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## arron.rouse

bix26 said:


> Just for my fellow Mercan’s I thought I’d translate to freedom units. That is a difference of about 5.5”s. On top of that, I believe that’s the measurement from the lens. [...]


Yes on the 5.5", no on the "from the lens". As per my post, it's from the front of the projector. Definitely not ideal but will be OK for many. My old PT-AE3000 just died and I've short-listed to LS500, TW9400 (6050UB in the US), UHZ65UST (Cinemax P1 in the US), VW270ES (VW295ES in the US) or the HU85LA. I'll have to change my projector set up no matter which I get so it's mostly about the performance/installation effort/cost ratios :\



klas said:


> For USTs inches make big difference. My Xiaomi sits about 2' from the wall to the front, P1 appears will need a few more inches but anything beyond that is going to be ridiculous for placement unless anyone considers to mount LS500 on the ceiling. Of course there is no standard for what is really considered UST, but I am almost certain people who would be buying Epson because of their "UST" marketing will be highly disappointed with 35"+ distance from the wall to front needed.
> 
> This is a good chart that shows the LS500 distance. 75cm (to lens) + 15cm (from lens to front) = 90 cm or 35.5" from the wall to front that you need for 120"


Dude, you're way too in love with the P1 considering there aren't even any reviews out yet. 
If you want UST, the HU85LA beats the hell out of the P1. At the moment, the P1 and the LS500 are running about equal for me. Just to give some perspective, from the front of the projector for a 120" screen:
HU85LA needs 53cm (20.8in)
Xiaomi A300 needs 65cm (25.6in)
P1/UHD65UST needs 75cm (29.5in)
LS500 needs 89cm (35in) 


So even for the P1/UHD65UST, that's not TV console size or even kitchen work top. That's the same as the width of a regular dining table. Which will be fine for some but will also put some off.

I really do hope that the P1/UHD65UST turns out to be everything the hype suggests because it has a really good installation effort/cost ratio for me. But until the reviews are in, we don't know the performance.


----------



## klas

arron.rouse said:


> Dude, you're way too in love with the P1 considering there aren't even any reviews out yet. /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> If you want UST, the HU85LA beats the hell out of the P1. At the moment, the P1 and the LS500 are running about equal for me. Just to give some perspective, from the front of the projector for a 120" screen:
> HU85LA needs 53cm (20.8in)
> Xiaomi A300 needs 65cm (25.6in)
> P1/UHD65UST needs 75cm (29.5in)
> LS500 needs 89cm (35in)
> 
> 
> So even for the P1/UHD65UST, that's not TV console size or even kitchen work top. That's the same as the width of a regular dining table. Which will be fine for some but will also put some off.
> 
> I really do hope that the P1/UHD65UST turns out to be everything the hype suggests because it has a really good installation effort/cost ratio for me. But until the reviews are in, we don't know the performance.


How did you make that determination from sizing comparison? Which is actually duplicate what I already compared a few posts above for 120" size. Also you missed that I said that Xiaomi avd P1 will work on most standard tv stands but not LS500 for 100" screen size. I do have P1 on preorder and looking forward to it and I am betting there is a very little chance it will underperform in comparison to Xiaomi which I do enjoy very much. If you missed how much LG and Epson LS500 screen bundle cost its double the price from P1 and i certainly don't want to spend that much. Even if Epson sells it separate from the screen for 3k I would still avoid it for all reasons above.


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## arron.rouse

klas said:


> How did you make that determination from sizing comparison? Which is actually duplicate what I already compared a few posts above for 120" size.


What determination? 



klas said:


> Also you missed that I said that Xiaomi avd P1 will work on most standard tv stands but not LS500 for 100" screen size.


The UHD65UST/P1 needs 64cm (25in) for a 100" screen. That's pretty big. Deeper than a kitchen worktop. Most of the TV stands on sale here in the UK are much smaller than that. The biggest I could find was 44cm (17.3in). Are you going to put your TV stand away from the wall?



klas said:


> I do have P1 on preorder and looking forward to it and I am betting there is a very little chance it will underperform in comparison to Xiaomi which I do enjoy very much.


I think you're right and really hope that the P1 turns out to be awesome for you. 



klas said:


> If you missed how much LG and Epson LS500 screen bundle cost its double the price from P1 and i certainly don't want to spend that much. Even if Epson sells it separate from the screen for 3k I would still avoid it for all reasons above.


The LS500 is about to go on sale here in the UK for £2599. The only price for the UHD65UST (the EU version of the P1) that I have seen is £3999. Mind you, some people are saying that the UHD65UST is a different projector despite looking exactly the same. The LG is only available on import from South Korea at about £4800.


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## klas

arron.rouse said:


> What determination?
> The UHD65UST/P1 needs 64cm (25in) for a 100" screen. That's pretty big. Deeper than a kitchen worktop. Most of the TV stands on sale here in the UK are much smaller than that. The biggest I could find was 44cm (17.3in). Are you going to put your TV stand away from the wall?


Certainly Xiaomi is better in this regard for 100", but P1 is still manageable unlike LS500. My TV stand is 17", it's about 4" from the wall, the 4" is what I need extension or tv stand with extendable shelf. We have discussed that a few pages back.


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## arron.rouse

klas said:


> what I need extension or tv stand with extendable shelf. We have discussed that a few pages back.


 Sorry, I skipped through the thread and only stopped for the more technical posts. If it hasn't already been suggested, drawer runners and a plinth on top of your existing TV cabinet might work. Might even let you push the cabinet back against the wall.


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## arron.rouse

If you have an engineering mind, I have a similar problem if I go to UST and was looking at putting a shelf between two of these: https://www.screwfix.com/p/croydex-...ndrail-stainless-steel-850-x-210-x-28mm/6885x

Putting the shelf on the bottom bars would allow a UST projector to fold away when not needed. Which is important in my situation.


----------



## Knolly

arron.rouse said:


> HU85LA needs 53cm (20.8in)
> Xiaomi A300 needs 65cm (25.6in)
> P1/UHD65UST needs 75cm (29.5in)
> LS500 needs 89cm (35in)


I love data comparisons like this. For the sake of more info (and not trying to be nitpicky), the A300 almost bang on 24 inches from front of projector to screen for 120". Its throw distance is a bit better than the normal Xiaomi and it isn't really well documented anywhere so I figured I'd go and manually check on mine.

I totally agree with what you're saying though, in terms of Throw Distance, LG wins by a long shot. The A300 is right in the middle of the LG and P1.


----------



## klas

arron.rouse said:


> If you have an engineering mind, I have a similar problem if I go to UST and was looking at putting a shelf between two of these: https://www.screwfix.com/p/croydex-...ndrail-stainless-steel-850-x-210-x-28mm/6885x
> 
> Putting the shelf on the bottom bars would allow a UST projector to fold away when not needed. Which is important in my situation.


There are drop leaf wall hinges as well as tables that will do just that without this tacky solution. Once you get UST you will realize that every inch matters for placement which is the failure of LS500.


----------



## arron.rouse

klas said:


> There are drop leaf wall hinges as well as tables that will do just that without this tacky solution. Once you get UST you will realize that every inch matters for placement which is the failure of LS500.


In my case, throw is not much of a problem but there are several obstacles. If I go UST, it has to be able to fold up not down and I don't want to do setup every time. I live in a 300 year-old cottage and the ceilings are low which means my 106" screen stops about 21" from the floor. Right in the middle of the screen are the sub and centre. So any UST would have to drop down past/around them.

So it might have to be a tacky solution for me but with some dressing to reduce the tackiness. Thankfully, I'm good at turning tacky things into things that look like antiques.


----------



## klas

arron.rouse said:


> klas said:
> 
> 
> 
> There are drop leaf wall hinges as well as tables that will do just that without this tacky solution. Once you get UST you will realize that every inch matters for placement which is the failure of LS500.
> 
> 
> 
> In my case, throw is not much of a problem but there are several obstacles. If I go UST, it has to be able to fold up not down and I don't want to do setup every time. I live in a 300 year-old cottage and the ceilings are low which means my 106" screen stops about 21" from the floor. Right in the middle of the screen are the sub and centre. So any UST would have to drop down past/around them.
> 
> So it might have to be a tacky solution for me but with some dressing to reduce the tackiness. Thankfully, I'm good at turning tacky things into things that look like antiques.
Click to expand...

I am pretty sure you could just flip a drop down hinge up side down with sliding extension and mount it securily something like this 
https://mobile.kitchensource.com/supports-brackets/ha-287.40.140.htm?p=HA-287.40.142

But do share what you came up with. I am still looking either to modify existing tv stand or find one for ust with extendable shelf


----------



## klas

Looks like Optoma has been busy populating Amazon Q&A today. No ceiling mounting P1.


----------



## arron.rouse

Knolly said:


> I love data comparisons like this. For the sake of more info (and not trying to be nitpicky), the A300 almost bang on 24 inches from front of projector to screen for 120". Its throw distance is a bit better than the normal Xiaomi and it isn't really well documented anywhere so I figured I'd go and manually check on mine.
> 
> I totally agree with what you're saying though, in terms of Throw Distance, LG wins by a long shot. The A300 is right in the middle of the LG and P1.


 Glad that someone else got enjoyment from it. The A300 figures came from the brochure for it. It is my understanding that an individual projector can vary quite a bit from its official specs. Seems like you got lucky and yours has a shorter throw than the official specs. 


Back to the P1/UHZ65UST and I'm now itching for the reviews. Here in the UK, Epson has the LS500 in stock. So I could have an LS500 tomorrow but with no idea whether it's a beauty or a pile of junk because there are no reviews. And there are no P1/UHD65UST reviews so I don't know whether it's worth waiting. Despite being 50, I feel like a 5 year-old.


----------



## saneace

Thanks to some solid advice from another forum member (who I have yet to thank properly because lost track of my old credentials and cannot PM again yet), decided Optoma P1 best for my needs b/c have obstruction that would limit throw distance to 8 feet or less in any ceiling mount scenario unless I successfully successfully attempted some arcane measures to try and work around the problem.

Anyway, the reasons that led me to order a P1 are not the reason for this post. Instead, after deciding to order a P1, started lurking around this thread, and noticed that a reoccurring point of discussion is whether (or to what degree) P1's throw distance may be an issue (whether practically or aesthetically). Have no opinion on that as an abstract proposition. In my case, the spacing is a total non-issue, but I am in no position to speak to the practical or aesthetic requirements others who are considering the P1 may have, except perhaps to say that I agree that it is best to know what one is getting into. 

If you are a pro who has no difficulty looking at numbers in abstract and then visualizing that on the mental blueprint you have of your home theater space, it is unlikely this post will be of any use to you. However, I tend to think there are more than a few folks out there for whom that is not the case, and if that describes you, then this post may afford some insight. Because I just purchased this property, my home theater area is virtually empty. That will not last very long, but for now at least, it is rather easy for me to snap a few reference photos, so I went ahead and did that (the photos are attached).

What you are looking at is one of the computers I have not got around to setting up yet (an ATX mid-tower) sitting on an old table I had laying around (is not what I will use but is fine for this purpose) placed 30 inches from wall (measured from baseboard to the front of table / prop using to represent P1). PC is significantly bigger than a P1, but it had the advantage of being convenient. A few pages back "klas" posted that you will need about 29 inches (measured from projector wall to the front of the projector) for the P1 to throw a 120 inch screen, which checks out for my part, so I relied on that. Stapler placed in the void between the projector wall and the table is there to provide an additional frame of reference (common item).


----------



## klas

Looks like for your room layout those 30 inches wouldn't matter much, you will be just limited to the picture size you can throw in there and you would certainly need it to be much lower to the ground. I have mine at 3" right now for 130" size

Also with power plug right behind you are ready for UST. 🙂


----------



## Mike Garrett

klas said:


> Actually according to the comment where ProjectorReviews responded in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6FhncA9C7_8 sounds like it will be noisy using 4k mode.
> 
> 
> 
> That "hum" comment is not good news, but we'll find out next week I hope


The high pitched hum is the E-shift unit. That is why the noise goes away when placed in silent mode, because you are turning off the E-shift and getting native resolution.


----------



## saneace

klas said:


> Looks like for your room layout those 30 inches wouldn't matter much, you will be just limited to the picture size you can throw in there and you would certainly need it to be much lower to the ground. I have mine at 3" right now for 130" size
> 
> Also with power plug right behind you are ready for UST. 🙂


Agreed. No way am I using that table for my P1 (or likely for anything else). It just happened to be laying around. Want to actually get my hands on the P1 and experiment with it some to know what my target numbers are before deciding on what media cabinet / shelf if I want to buy, but it will be low slung in any event. You probably noticed that I have a drop down from the ceiling in the top right hand corner. Measurement from that to baseboard is 7 feet (84"). Electrical outlet is 18" above the baseboard, so looking at a vertical limit on screen size of 66" inches. Seems that I need 59" vertical for 120" diagonal, so should be in good shape (width is over 12 feet). If it really came down to it, I would lower the power receptacle. This may have already been posted, but FYI, Optoma has put up a distance calculator here: https://www.optoma.com/us/product/cinemax-p1/#product_download_128_tab

There are actually only two things giving me pause at this point, and that is what I intend to do: (1) in regard to the electrical outlet and coax jack in the very middle of the projector wall; and (2) in regard to a screen for the projector (which overlaps with point #1 ). That space is so well light shielded that even during peak daylight it is pitch dark in there and the lights can also be dimmed to near total dark.


----------



## jt99

*Continued Release Delays*

The release timeline for this unit has gotten ridiculous and is making me nervous as to its cause. 
Reveal in January, just in time for Christmas!?! At this point, I'm likely going to cancel my pre-order and reevaluate after some real reviews have come out. 

Outside of the new Epson UST and the LG (HU85LA), is there anything on the horizon worth waiting out? My usage is primarily TV replacement in a room with moderate to low ambient lighting. 

JT


----------



## J Bone

jt99 said:


> The release timeline for this unit has gotten ridiculous and is making me nervous as to its cause.
> 
> Reveal in January, just in time for Christmas!?! At this point, I'm likely going to cancel my pre-order and reevaluate after some real reviews have come out.
> 
> 
> 
> Outside of the new Epson UST and the LG (HU85LA), is there anything on the horizon worth waiting out? My usage is primarily TV replacement in a room with moderate to low ambient lighting.
> 
> 
> 
> JT


The ViewSonic x1000-4k might be worth your attention. I'm not to the point of cancelling my pre-order because I have confidence in Optoma products based on having two previous models and was extremely content with their quality. Only time will tell what the true quality of this individual projector will provide. I'm sure we'll have a better picture within a week or two based on professional reviews and actual consumer reviews submitted.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Casey_Bryson

saneace said:


> Agreed. No way am I using that table for my P1 (or likely for anything else). It just happened to be laying around. Want to actually get my hands on the P1 and experiment with it some to know what my target numbers are before deciding on what media cabinet / shelf if I want to buy, but it will be low slung in any event. You probably noticed that I have a drop down from the ceiling in the top right hand corner. Measurement from that to baseboard is 7 feet (84"). Electrical outlet is 18" above the baseboard, so looking at a vertical limit on screen size of 66" inches. Seems that I need 59" vertical for 120" diagonal, so should be in good shape (width is over 12 feet). If it really came down to it, I would lower the power receptacle. This may have already been posted, but FYI, Optoma has put up a distance calculator here: https://www.optoma.com/us/product/cinemax-p1/#product_download_128_tab
> 
> There are actually only two things giving me pause at this point, and that is what I intend to do: (1) in regard to the electrical outlet and coax jack in the very middle of the projector wall; and (2) in regard to a screen for the projector (which overlaps with point #1 ). That space is so well light shielded that even during peak daylight it is pitch dark in there and the lights can also be dimmed to near total dark.


That distance calculator https://www.optoma.com/us/product/cinemax-p1/#tab-dc is for the wrong projector. It's currently showing a throw of 2'2" for 120" screen.


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## smajumdar

Amazon price increased to $4332 😱. Are we already seeing a price increase on other websites too?


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## klas

smajumdar said:


> Amazon price increased to $4332 ðŸ˜±. Are we already seeing a price increase on other websites too?


I see it. Hopefully our preorders price don't change which should be shipped tomorrow.


----------



## Koeikan

smajumdar said:


> Amazon price increased to $4332 😱. Are we already seeing a price increase on other websites too?


Amazon does some funky stuff w/ pricing sometimes, especially in cases where things are out of stock/demand outpaces supply.

Looking at other retailers that haven't change prices and the seemingly random price listed, I would assume this was updated automatically based on some sort of threshold based trigger and not a result of any sort of general price increase/change.



klas said:


> I see it. Hopefully our preorders price don't change which should be shipped tomorrow.


It won't.



Amazon said:


> Whenever you pre-order a physical item displaying the “Pre-order Price Guarantee” message on the product detail page, the price we charge when we ship it to you will be the lowest price offered by Amazon.com between the time you placed your order and the end of the day of the release date.


----------



## g4s

smajumdar said:


> Amazon price increased to $4332 😱. Are we already seeing a price increase on other websites too?


No, it's just another Amazon quirk.


----------



## saneace

Casey_Bryson said:


> That distance calculator https://www.optoma.com/us/product/cinemax-p1/#tab-dc is for the wrong projector. It's currently showing a throw of 2'2" for 120" screen.


Just chiming in to say I have no basis to dispute this. I was only over there to grab the datasheet and user manual. To provide a bit of background, the link to the area Optoma site re P1 at issue is here. Upon visiting the site, you will notice that there are a series of navigation tabs along the bottom area of the page, two of which are Downloads and Distance Calculator. Datasheet and user manual under Downloads tab. Did not spend any time tinkering with calculator; rather, I just clicked in long enough to see if it was a live link or not, but it does not inspire confidence (I don't care how early along we are) if Optoma went through the trouble of putting that tab up only to then pre-populate it with invalid inputs relative to the product at issue.


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## saneace

Casey_Bryson said:


> That distance calculator https://www.optoma.com/us/product/cinemax-p1/#tab-dc is for the wrong projector. It's currently showing a throw of 2'2" for 120" screen.


Went back to look into this further. Change your units from feet to inches and you get 26" inches from *lens* to wall to throw 120" diagonal?


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## klas

saneace said:


> Went back to look into this further. Change your units from feet to inches and you get 26" inches from *lens* to wall to throw 120" diagonal?


If that calculator is correct then it will be same as Xiaomi, otherwise add 3 more inches for 120"


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## saneace

klas said:


> If that calculator is correct then it will be same as Xiaomi, otherwise add 3 more inches for 120"


Just thinking out loud here, but if you look at the dimensions of the P1, you have to factor in the sound bar in front, so when we referencing earlier 29 inches from wall to "to front of projector" for 120 inch throw, seems we speaking there in terms of the footprint of the device (e.g., tack on 3 inches b/c lens sits behind sound bar). See attached snip from projector central. It's probably a little blurry due to the HDR on this display, but should be legible at least.


----------



## klas

saneace said:


> Just thinking out loud here, but if you look at the dimensions of the P1, you have to factor in the sound bar in front, so when we referencing earlier 29 inches from wall to "to front of projector" for 120 inch throw, seems we speaking there in terms of the footprint of the device (e.g., tack on 3 inches b/c lens sits behind sound bar). See attached snip from projector central. It's probably a little blurry due to the HDR on this display, but should be legible at least.


so 26" to the lens plus the 3" or ~29" to the front of the unit, I secretly hope that somehow it would be identical to Xiaomi or less.


----------



## g4s

Seems like the distance from the screen measurements I've seen have been pretty consistent. About 14.5 inches from the screen to the back of the P1. What got my attention is the height offset numbers in the user manual. They can be anywhere from 16" to 21" from the top of the stand to the bottom of a 120" screen.
"The vertical offset may vary between projectors, due to the limitations of optical manufacturing."
"Offset tolerance is 124% +6%/-2.5%."


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## diggumsmax

g4s said:


> No, it's just another Amazon quirk.


Yup, now they are back to regular price saying it's marked down from 5k and that you save 1.7k by ordering from them . Amazon is just trying to make people think that they are getting a great deal. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## Buddylee123

Hope you guys post some pictures after you get it setup. I don't need a UST projector right now, but there is something cool about how these look in a living room on a 100 to 120 light rejecting screen.


----------



## diggumsmax

g4s said:


> Seems like the distance from the screen measurements I've seen have been pretty consistent. About 14.5 inches from the screen to the back of the P1. What got my attention is the height offset numbers in the user manual. They can be anywhere from 16" to 21" from the top of the stand to the bottom of a 120" screen.
> 
> "The vertical offset may vary between projectors, due to the limitations of optical manufacturing."
> 
> "Offset tolerance is 124% +6%/-2.5%."


Interesting find. I'm going to have to go through the users manual. Everything I've heard is .24 * height of screen. So 120 would need 14.112 inches from the top of the credenza/shelf to the bottom of the picture, with about an inch wiggle room using the adjustable feet. 

I still really wish they made these ALR screen in 110 but it appears to be 100 or 120 unless you get SI or some other top tier brand. Some manufacturers will custom make a specific size but you are probably going to have to wait a while (months) to get it. Regardless, I'm glad I held off on getting a screen until I get the P1 so I'll know for sure. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## g4s

diggumsmax said:


> Interesting find. I'm going to have to go through the users manual. Everything I've heard is .24 * height of screen. So 120 would need 14.112 inches from the top of the credenza/shelf to the bottom of the picture, with about an inch wiggle room using the adjustable feet.
> 
> I still really wish they made these ALR screen in 110 but it appears to be 100 or 120 unless you get SI or some other top tier brand. Some manufacturers will custom make a specific size but you are probably going to have to wait a while (months) to get it. Regardless, I'm glad I held off on getting a screen until I get the P1 so I'll know for sure.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Yeah, that .24 x screen height is what I figured it would be. The projector might have to be even lower than I thought.


----------



## saneace

diggumsmax said:


> Interesting find. I'm going to have to go through the users manual. Everything I've heard is .24 * height of screen. So 120 would need 14.112 inches from the top of the credenza/shelf to the bottom of the picture, with about an inch wiggle room using the adjustable feet.
> 
> I still really wish they made these ALR screen in 110 but it appears to be 100 or 120 unless you get SI or some other top tier brand. Some manufacturers will custom make a specific size but you are probably going to have to wait a while (months) to get it. Regardless, I'm glad I held off on getting a screen until I get the P1 so I'll know for sure.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


And this is the topic that is most of interest to me at present. I still have a lot of research to do on optimal screen for the P1 On the one hand, it is not a good idea to buy a Ferrari and put a Pinto engine in it (crap screen analogy), but on the other hand, Confucius says that common knowledge is commonly wrong, so always hesitant to drop a wad of cash on something I supposedly "need" to juice the full potential absent very potent evidence that it truly is needed. Until I have read more, not qualified to speak to it, but I do get the sense that there is some price gouging going on with the screens/fabrics. I may well be wrong about that, but I still need to self-educate and need some convincing, especially in my case given that projector room is pitch dark 24/7 if I want it to be.


----------



## klas

saneace said:


> diggumsmax said:
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting find. I'm going to have to go through the users manual. Everything I've heard is .24 * height of screen. So 120 would need 14.112 inches from the top of the credenza/shelf to the bottom of the picture, with about an inch wiggle room using the adjustable feet.
> 
> I still really wish they made these ALR screen in 110 but it appears to be 100 or 120 unless you get SI or some other top tier brand. Some manufacturers will custom make a specific size but you are probably going to have to wait a while (months) to get it. Regardless, I'm glad I held off on getting a screen until I get the P1 so I'll know for sure.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> And this is the topic that is most of interest to me at present. I still have a lot of research to do on optimal screen for the P1 On the one hand, it is not a good idea to buy a Ferrari and put a Pinto engine in it (crap screen analogy), but on the other hand, Confucius says that common knowledge is commonly wrong, so always hesitant to drop a wad of cash on something I supposedly "need" to juice the full potential absent very potent evidence that it truly is needed. Until I have read more, not qualified to speak to it, but I do get the sense that there is some price gouging going on with the screens/fabrics. I may well be wrong about that, but I still need to self-educate and need some convincing, especially in my case given that projector room is pitch dark 24/7 if I want it to be.
Click to expand...

There is a lot of depends and how much money you are ready to drop. I found that $300 white fixed screen is perfectly fine for UST in pitch dark but for any sort of ambient light in the room you will wish that you spend 5x the cost for ALR though. I am holding out getting ALR until they are more affordable.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

saneace said:


> Just chiming in to say I have no basis to dispute this. I was only over there to grab the datasheet and user manual. To provide a bit of background, the link to the area Optoma site re P1 at issue is here. Upon visiting the site, you will notice that there are a series of navigation tabs along the bottom area of the page, two of which are Downloads and Distance Calculator. Datasheet and user manual under Downloads tab. Did not spend any time tinkering with calculator; rather, I just clicked in long enough to see if it was a live link or not, but it does not inspire confidence (I don't care how early along we are) if Optoma went through the trouble of putting that tab up only to then pre-populate it with invalid inputs relative to the product at issue.


_Not a direct reply just more food for thought on the subject:_

Well the graphic of the projector in the calculator is a different projector and they often state that for 120" the back of the projector will be 14.5 inches from the wall. So add the depth of the projector (15") and you get 29.5 right? So are they saying that there's 3.5 inches in between the lens and the front? It would stand to reason, but shouldn't they also switch the projector graphic and provide all the numbers with the variance since that will change the how high the image is projected and will also change how far away the projector is from the wall since the desired setup is one without keystone or their "smart fit" which adds to the lag for games?

I guess the point is that projector calculator just raises more questions than answers and could really mess up someone's plans if they considered it gospel. Right? I mean I get trying to provide a rough estimate but it seems that if you're pairing these UST's with Fixed screens you can't get use a calculator and adjustments are going to come in to play after setup regardless of your mathematical proficiency.


----------



## diggumsmax

saneace said:


> And this is the topic that is most of interest to me at present. I still have a lot of research to do on optimal screen for the P1 On the one hand, it is not a good idea to buy a Ferrari and put a Pinto engine in it (crap screen analogy), but on the other hand, Confucius says that common knowledge is commonly wrong, so always hesitant to drop a wad of cash on something I supposedly "need" to juice the full potential absent very potent evidence that it truly is needed. Until I have read more, not qualified to speak to it, but I do get the sense that there is some price gouging going on with the screens/fabrics. I may well be wrong about that, but I still need to self-educate and need some convincing, especially in my case given that projector room is pitch dark 24/7 if I want it to be.


Based of my research, the biggest issue is light reflecting of the screen to the ceiling due the angle of the light coming from the UST projector. I've got white ceilings that I can't paint so this would probably be an issue on my non ALR 11 to 12 year old Stewart Firehawk. hopefully I'll have the P1 in my hands by the end of week so I will certainly be taking some pics to post on here. This may not be an issue if you have a dark ceiling though. 

I will More than likely end up getting a ALR screen specifically for UST but I really want to see what it looks like on my current screen. While I paid a lot for my current screen, it has lasted me 12 years and a few projectors so it's a pretty good investment. The downside is that if you buy one of these screens you're going to be limited to UST unless you have another screen sitting around, which most people don't.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## chinmokutak

I love how emotional people get about screens when we haven't even got this projector anywhere lol


----------



## saneace

diggumsmax said:


> Based of my research, the biggest issue is light reflecting of the screen to the ceiling due the angle of the light coming from the UST projector. I've got white ceilings that I can't paint so this would probably be an issue on my non ALR 11 to 12 year old Stewart Firehawk. hopefully I'll have the P1 in my hands by the end of week so I will certainly be taking some pics to post on here. This may not be an issue if you have a dark ceiling though.
> 
> I will More than likely end up getting a ALR screen specifically for UST but I really want to see what it looks like on my current screen. While I paid a lot for my current screen, it has lasted me 12 years and a few projectors so it's a pretty good investment. The downside is that if you buy one of these screens you're going to be limited to UST unless you have another screen sitting around, which most people don't.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


I have been away from AVS for a bit and thus am not up to speed on etiquette these days (in addition to my new lowly post count), so going to exercise some caution on links in relation to items for sale. But lets suppose, hypothetically, that there is a dude named Carl selling (16:9 | 67x118-in | 135-in Diag. | Rolled) ALR screen cloth on Amazon for $150, which I could easily put on a frame of my own design, be that 1/4 boards, PVC pipe, or what have you, why is it that I should mistrust Ol' Carl in favor of vastly more expensive offerings? Honest question. My wheelhouse is PC hardware, coding, and networking, and there is enough overlap that I usually have no difficulty finding my way, but this is something of a "have to see it" item. Thoughts?


----------



## klas

saneace said:


> diggumsmax said:
> 
> 
> 
> Based of my research, the biggest issue is light reflecting of the screen to the ceiling due the angle of the light coming from the UST projector. I've got white ceilings that I can't paint so this would probably be an issue on my non ALR 11 to 12 year old Stewart Firehawk. hopefully I'll have the P1 in my hands by the end of week so I will certainly be taking some pics to post on here. This may not be an issue if you have a dark ceiling though.
> 
> I will More than likely end up getting a ALR screen specifically for UST but I really want to see what it looks like on my current screen. While I paid a lot for my current screen, it has lasted me 12 years and a few projectors so it's a pretty good investment. The downside is that if you buy one of these screens you're going to be limited to UST unless you have another screen sitting around, which most people don't.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> I have been away from AVS for a bit and thus am not up to speed on etiquette these days (in addition to my new lowly post count), so going to exercise some caution on links in relation to items for sale. But lets suppose, hypothetically, that there is a dude named Carl selling (16:9 | 67x118-in | 135-in Diag. | Rolled) ALR screen cloth on Amazon for $150, which I could easily put on a frame of my own design, be that 1/4 boards, PVC pipe, or what have you, why is it that I should mistrust Ol' Carl in favor of vastly more expensive offerings? Honest question. My wheelhouse is PC hardware, coding, and networking, and there is enough overlap that I usually have no difficulty finding my way, but this is something of a "have to see it" item. Throughs?
Click to expand...

That Carl sells fake ALR screens for UST aka regular ALR screens for front projectors.


----------



## saneace

klas said:


> That Carl sells fake ALR screens for UST aka regular ALR screens for front projectors.


Roger that and much appreciated.


----------



## ProjectionHead

diggumsmax said:


> Interesting find. I'm going to have to go through the users manual. Everything I've heard is .24 * height of screen. So 120 would need 14.112 inches from the top of the credenza/shelf to the bottom of the picture, with about an inch wiggle room using the adjustable feet.
> 
> I still really wish they made these ALR screen in 110 but it appears to be 100 or 120 unless you get SI or some other top tier brand. Some manufacturers will custom make a specific size but you are probably going to have to wait a while (months) to get it. Regardless, I'm glad I held off on getting a screen until I get the P1 so I'll know for sure.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


There will be a 110" from Grandview with their UST ALR Dynamique surface soon.


----------



## Gae80uk

@ProjectionHead an electric tab tensioned pull down 4K grey screen with 0.8 gain could do the job as well? I am aware is not ALR

Thanks!


----------



## ProjectionHead

Gae80uk said:


> @ProjectionHead an electric tab tensioned pull down 4K grey screen with 0.8 gain could do the job as well? I am aware is not ALR
> 
> Thanks!


It will still scatter light to the ceiling unless it doesn't diffuse the light upwards (intended tor UST). What surface are you considering?


----------



## ProjectionHead

*P1 Update:*
The units have left Optoma's facility with an ETA in NJ of Friday. All hands will be on deck to double-box them up and get them back out the same day. Everyone will receive their serial # with their tracking information so that they can be assured to be one of the first 200 people to leave a review on Optoma's website and get that $200 gift card.

As expected, Amazon is backorderd on these. I'm interested to know if anyone who ordered from them gets their units or if/when they are told that they are backordered and when they will arrive.

Fortunately some specialty resellers may have bought a boatload of P1s and may have a couple still available from this first wave.

The next round of P1s will not be available until mid-November so hopefully you get lucky on this first round.


----------



## Kev1000000

Thanks for keeping us updated, @ProjectionHead.


----------



## ProjectionHead

ProjectionHead said:


> *P1 Update:*
> The units have left Optoma's facility with an ETA in NJ of Friday. All hands will be on deck to double-box them up and get them back out the same day. Everyone will receive their serial # with their tracking information so that they can be assured to be one of the first 200 people to leave a review on Optoma's website and get that $200 gift card.
> 
> As expected, Amazon is backorderd on these. I'm interested to know if anyone who ordered from them gets their units or if/when they are told that they are backordered and when they will arrive.
> 
> Fortunately some specialty resellers may have bought a boatload of P1s and may have a couple still available from this first wave.
> 
> The next round of P1s will not be available until mid-November so hopefully you get lucky on this first round.


Scratch that... these are likely sold out everywhere. Hopefully you got your pre-order in!


----------



## klas

ProjectionHead said:


> Scratch that... these are likely sold out everywhere. Hopefully you got your pre-order in!


Can you share how many units you got allocated? My Amazon order status hasn't changed though


----------



## Gae80uk

@ProjectionHead not sure what material, this is the XY link

https://www.xyscreen.com/tab-tensioned-motorized-projection-screen-ec2-series


----------



## Kdub69

Eastporters in Canada will also receive the p1’s on friday confirmed!


----------



## chinmokutak

Kdub69 said:


> Eastporters in Canada will also receive the p1’s on friday confirmed!












I just have to figure out how I'm going to tell my wife I bought a projector when we already have one...


----------



## chinmokutak

Kdub69 said:


> Eastporters in Canada will also receive the p1’s on friday confirmed!


Did you call to see if have enough for your pre-order? Wondering if they have enough for all preorders?


----------



## klas

chinmokutak said:


> I just have to figure out how I'm going to tell my wife I bought a projector when we already have one...


Haha, yeah, last time I upgraded my projector which I had for 6 years, my wife complained that I change them every year... this time she will be right though


----------



## chinmokutak

klas said:


> Haha, yeah, last time I upgraded my projector which I had for 6 years, my wife complained that I change them every year... this time she will be right though


I'm assuming you already paid off your mortgage, I don't know how else you do it


----------



## klas

chinmokutak said:


> I'm assuming you already paid off your mortgage, I don't know how else you do it


I will just give up my daily $5 lattes for the next year


----------



## TimHuey

TV specialist is demoing a P1 at their open house tomorrow Oct 2 in Salt Lake City. So it appears some dealers already have theirs.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Gae80uk said:


> @ProjectionHead not sure what material, this is the XY link
> 
> https://www.xyscreen.com/tab-tensioned-motorized-projection-screen-ec2-series


I can't confirm if their surfaces are texture free and will resolve square 4k pixels. All of the images of their surfaces that they provide show texture

https://www.xyscreen.com/front-fabrics

The Max4K options looks to have the least amount of texture and would likely be the best bet to possibly resolve 4k pixels with no distortion.

What would the landed price be for the XY you are considering?

The least expensive 0.8 that is 4k+ that I am aware of is the Stewart Tiburon G2: https://www.projectorscreen.com/projector-screens?Attribs=672+670+757+5060&sort=PriceAsc


----------



## ProjectionHead

TimHuey said:


> TV specialist is demoing a P1 at their open house tomorrow Oct 2 in Salt Lake City. So it appears some dealers already have theirs.


Makes sense; they are in UT and Optoma was shipping from CA. Us losers on the east coast are a couple days behind


----------



## TimHuey

Well I'm planning on attending the Open House. I will post comparisons, screens used , display environment, calibration settings used, and over all impressions.


----------



## TimHuey

Well i called to confirm and they will have a P1 on display but it will be demoed by Optima so that explains how they are getting it early


----------



## roodof

will my sony active 3d glasses work with the Optoma P1? called Optoma tech support and they told me we no longer carry 3D glasses even for the new P1!!


----------



## Casey_Bryson

roodof said:


> will my sony active 3d glasses work with the Optoma P1? called Optoma tech support and they told me we no longer carry 3D glasses even for the new P1!!


Are they DLP Link? Maybe. Glasses within spec don't always work and how well they sync up and block out the linking/sync frame is always a consideration. I've tried about 7 different glasses that were all supposed to work with my Fengmi and several didn't work or didn't block out the linking/sync frame--Red or Green in my case.

The new Xpand X105 DLP Link glasses are the best I've ever seen... by far! Unfortunately they don't work with my Fengmi and probably the rest of the Xiaomi's. . Hopefully they will work with the P1.


----------



## Kdub69

chinmokutak said:


> Kdub69 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Eastporters in Canada will also receive the p1â€™️s on friday confirmed!
> 
> 
> 
> Did you call to see if have enough for your pre-order? Wondering if they have enough for all preorders?
Click to expand...

I think they only have 12 and all are taken will get another shipment later on thats what i’m told not sure if its true


----------



## chinmokutak

Kdub69 said:


> I think they only have 12 and all are taken will get another shipment later on thats what i’m told not sure if its true


thanks, I placed an order through them back in August. hopefully they're going to have one for me. If not I may just cancel and wait for reviews


----------



## bix26

I’ve seen a lot of exaggerated claims regarding screen texture on this and several other UST model’s topic pages. I feel this is a disingenuous marketing ploy thats been around since 480p projectors we’re common. Now I can’t prove this so I’ll just chalk it up to blissful ignorance.

What I can prove is that texture plays a very small roll in the perceived detail on screen. The major contributing factors are lens quality and the imagers themselves. Here’s how I’ll demonstrate. 

First, I’ve taken a small piece of cardboard and covered it with a paper towel with far more texture than any screen even the cheapest low quality screen one could find.









Next, I’ve moved my 1080p PJ as close to the screen as possible to recreate the pixel density of a 4k screen. Admittedly it’s not exactly 1/4 of my screen, however I’m confident it’s close enough for demonstration purposes.










Here are the results, a clearly defined high density pixel grid on a paper towel. :grin:










(Note Tapatalk would only allow a low resolution upload, the pixels were even clearer in person)

My, reason for doing this silly experiment? To dispel myths used to sell products at ridiculous margins. After all this is the Audio Video Sience forum not the Audio Video Sales forum. Plus, even crude science and experiments are always fun for me. 

Cheers!


----------



## smajumdar

Has anyone got a shipping confirmation that their projector has been shipped? Amazon stills that it is on track for delivery by the 3rd but it still hasnt shipped. Plus their website now says it is temporarily out of stock 😱. Just worried that i may not even get it and may need to wait for another month or two 🤦🏻*♂


----------



## saneace

ProjectionHead said:


> *P1 Update:*
> The units have left Optoma's facility with an ETA in NJ of Friday. All hands will be on deck to double-box them up and get them back out the same day. Everyone will receive their serial # with their tracking information so that they can be assured to be one of the first 200 people to leave a review on Optoma's website and get that $200 gift card.
> 
> As expected, Amazon is backorderd on these. I'm interested to know if anyone who ordered from them gets their units or if/when they are told that they are backordered and when they will arrive.
> 
> Fortunately some specialty resellers may have bought a boatload of P1s and may have a couple still available from this first wave.
> 
> The next round of P1s will not be available until mid-November so hopefully you get lucky on this first round.


They still have the same Thursday projected arrival (from Amazon) that I always have, but should add that I also do not have a tracking number as of yet.


----------



## saneace

smajumdar said:


> Has anyone got a shipping confirmation that their projector has been shipped? Amazon stills that it is on track for delivery by the 3rd but it still hasnt shipped. Plus their website now says it is temporarily out of stock 😱. Just worried that i may not even get it and may need to wait for another month or two 🤦🏻*♂


I would not go chicken little just yet. Typically I do not get a tracking number on most anything until the day before or at best two days before expected delivery. I cannot say it would be unprecedented, but it would be unusual for them to have screwed up the supply chain calculation that badly. For what it is worth, in my experience, which is to say the experience of a random guy on the internet who is not inclined to elaborate about the nature of his work, when there is unexpectedly high demand for a product requiring that limited supply be allocated among expectant retailers, he who has the largest money stick tends to get preferred treatment. The Amazon money stick is more like a money club. Would give it until at least tomorrow night before worrying about it, and you can take comfort in the fact that you are price locked now.


----------



## Ilya Peltsverger

*Elite Screens AR120H-CLR*

FYI, I'm not sure if this is a mistake or not, but I will post this here anyway. Walmart selles Elite Screens AR120H-CLR for $1299 which generally goes for ~$2400.


----------



## klas

Not shipped. I ordered on 24th. When did everyone else order from Amazon?


----------



## saneace

klas said:


> Not shipped. I ordered on 24th. When did everyone else order from Amazon?


The day before you (Sept. 23)


----------



## saneace

klas said:


> Not shipped. I ordered on 24th. When did everyone else order from Amazon?


By the way, when my wife asks me about a new trinket, I usually just start spouting off tech jargon at random until she walks away. Worth a shot.


----------



## saneace

"The problem is honey that this doohickey is just not optimized correctly for use with our other doohickey, despite assurances to the contrary, and that was going to result in premature death of our current doohickey, so I got this other doohickey, from a reputable manufacturer, to rescue us from the brutish ill treatment visited upon us by the manufacturer of our current doohickey. Also, there is no need to fret! I am going to re-market old doohickey to recoup most of the cost of the new doohickey. So, really, I just saved us from disaster. Your welcome." 

_Tosses old doohickey into the part graveyard for future use after this discussion is forgotten_


----------



## ProjectionHead

bix26 said:


> I’ve seen a lot of exaggerated claims regarding screen texture on this and several other UST model’s topic pages. I feel this is a disingenuous marketing ploy thats been around since 480p projectors we’re common. Now I can’t prove this so I’ll just chalk it up to blissful ignorance.
> 
> What I can prove is that texture plays a very small roll in the perceived detail on screen. The major contributing factors are lens quality and the imagers themselves. Here’s how I’ll demonstrate.
> 
> First, I’ve taken a small piece of cardboard and covered it with a paper towel with far more texture than any screen even the cheapest low quality screen one could find.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I’ve moved my 1080p PJ as close to the screen as possible to recreate the pixel density of a 4k screen. Admittedly it’s not exactly 1/4 of my screen, however I’m confident it’s close enough for demonstration purposes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the results, a clearly defined high density pixel grid on a paper towel. :grin:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Note Tapatalk would only allow a low resolution upload, the pixels were even clearer in person)
> 
> My, reason for doing this silly experiment? To dispel myths used to sell products at ridiculous margins. After all this is the Audio Video Sience forum not the Audio Video Sales forum. Plus, even crude science and experiments are always fun for me.
> 
> Cheers!


I don't really believe your experiment proves the point you are trying to hammer home here.

1) As you acknowledge, you did not make your image 1/4 of the size of the screen; in fact it looks to be greater than 1/2 the size of the screen. As we know, 4k pixels are 1/4 the size of a 1080p pixel so you did not come close to recreating the pixel density of a 4k projector on a full size screen.

2) There is not a clearly defined pixel grid. Yes there are some pixels that you can see defined, but there are many that you cannot (red arrows). If you had the correct pixel size/density it would be even more pronounced.

Despite what you may believe and are trying to prove with your experiment, there is a *science* to projector screens and surface texture absolutely plays a role in the pixels geometry. 

I have already posted images in this thread (and others) of actual 4k pixels being projected onto both textured and textureless surface and detailed how the geometry is distorted. 

Don't (want to) believe me? I encourage anyone interested in getting the clearest image with their 4k projector to grab some free samples (Da-lite is a great company who will send out free samples of their HD Progressive surfaces) and see for themselves how an actual 4k pixel renders differently on a textured surface (even a paper towel) vs a textureless surface.

I've included a couple other resources from Projecta (owned by Legrand /Dalite), Crutchfield and AccucalAV as attachments for some examples for those who are interested.
AVS Thread: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/2811345-what-makes-screen-4k-ready.html


----------



## ProjectionHead

saneace said:


> They still have the same Thursday projected arrival (from Amazon) that I always have, but should add that I also do not have a tracking number as of yet.


Good luck! Let us know if it ships on schedule.


----------



## saneace

ProjectionHead said:


> I don't really believe your experiment proves the point you are trying to hammer home here.
> 
> 1) As you acknowledge, you did not make your image 1/4 of the size of the screen; in fact it looks to be greater than 1/2 the size of the screen. As we know, 4k pixels are 1/4 the size of a 1080p pixel so you did not come close to recreating the pixel density of a 4k projector on a full size screen.
> 
> 2) There is not a clearly defined pixel grid. Yes there are some pixels that you can see defined, but there are many that you cannot (red arrows). If you had the correct pixel size/density it would be even more pronounced.
> 
> Despite what you may believe and are trying to prove with your experiment, there is a *science* to projector screens and surface texture absolutely plays a role in the pixels geometry.
> 
> I have already posted images in this thread (and others) of actual 4k pixels being projected onto both textured and textureless surface and detailed how the geometry is distorted.
> 
> Don't (want to) believe me? I encourage anyone interested in getting the clearest image with their 4k projector to grab some free samples (Da-lite is a great company who will send out free samples of their HD Progressive surfaces) and see for themselves how an actual 4k pixel renders differently on a textured surface (even a paper towel) vs a textureless surface.
> 
> I've included a couple other resources from Projecta (owned by Legrand /Dalite), Crutchfield and AccucalAV as attachments for some examples for those who are interested.
> AVS Thread: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/2811345-what-makes-screen-4k-ready.html


I have nothing to add of value here one way or the other except to say that I appreciate seeing this kind of back and forth because, so long as it stays respectful and honest as I fully expect it will here, then it is a healthy discussion to have and, moreover, one which (I hope) will benefit all concerned in the end.


----------



## klas

saneace said:


> By the way, when my wife asks me about a new trinket, I usually just start spouting off tech jargon at random until she walks away. Worth a shot.


Haha yeah I have tried that and sometimes it works


----------



## bix26

ProjectionHead said:


> I don't really believe your experiment proves the point you are trying to hammer home here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1) As you acknowledge, you did not make your image 1/4 of the size of the screen; in fact it looks to be greater than 1/2 the size of the screen. As we know, 4k pixels are 1/4 the size of a 1080p pixel so you did not come close to recreating the pixel density of a 4k projector on a full size screen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) There is not a clearly defined pixel grid. Yes there are some pixels that you can see defined, but there are many that you cannot (red arrows). If you had the correct pixel size/density it would be even more pronounced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Despite what you may believe and are trying to prove with your experiment, there is a *science* to projector screens and surface texture absolutely plays a role in the pixels geometry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have already posted images in this thread (and others) of actual 4k pixels being projected onto both textured and textureless surface and detailed how the geometry is distorted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't (want to) believe me? I encourage anyone interested in getting the clearest image with their 4k projector to grab some free samples (Da-lite is a great company who will send out free samples of their HD Progressive surfaces) and see for themselves how an actual 4k pixel renders differently on a textured surface (even a paper towel) vs a textureless surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've included a couple other resources from Projecta (owned by Legrand /Dalite), Crutchfield and AccucalAV as attachments for some examples for those who are interested.
> 
> 
> 
> AVS Thread: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/2811345-what-makes-screen-4k-ready.html








I acknowledged that the pixel density was not as high as 4k and that the experiment was crude. All the same I did move the paper towel much closer and took more pictures. The pictures below demonstrate a pixel density higher than what you would see on a 120” 4k screen. Yes, the geometry issues do get worse as you stated. However this is a result of the looseness of the paper towel scotch taped to thin card stock. I think it’s safe to say most screens even cheap ones will be at least MUCH flatter with less texture. 





(A Paper Towel “I still see pixels”)


























Going by the marketing material above that textured screens can’t resolve 4K content, wouldn’t all acoustically woven screen and lenticular (UST specific texture) screens be incompatible with 4k projectors? Nothing in the marketing material above has me convinced, anymore than marketing material claiming $3,000 speaker cables are better than $200 ones.



I’m only taking this up to counter the relentless sales pitches and marketing that’s been going on in these threads. If people would rather believe marketing material from Screen Innovations, Da Lite, and the rest of the most expensive screen manufacturers and their dealers such as yourself that’s fine. I just hope they save themselves some hard earned money and get samples from companies such as SilverTicket, ViewSonic, EliteScreens, XY Screens, or VividStorm before they do. I doubt there is much difference if any. In fact I’d speculate they’re made in the same factories and same machines. Honestly, I’m guessing the only difference is the markup. 



Sometimes you pay more you get more like cars, watches, homes etc. where the R&D and raw materials are much costlier. Other times your only paying for a higher margin and a brands marketing budget.



I’ll let people draw their own conclusion, here. I rest my case. Hopefully, this thread can move back towards impartial opinions on the P1 rather than sales pitches and agendas (mine being just helping out fellow enthusiasts make informed decisions).


----------



## Gae80uk

Guys plz start posting pics, videos, tests, benchmarks, calibration, etc.. as soon as you put your hands on your P1!


----------



## solal-

It's seems that some people received it : https://twitter.com/hdtvpodcast/status/1179145501033168897


----------



## MississippiMan

As someone who has been developing Projection Screen coatings since 2003, I feel I can offer some definitive information, and perhaps some advice here.

Even back in the days of 800 x 600 & 480i projected resolution, there were marked differences of how pixel grids were resolved between various screen textures.

But back then the case was that texture was your friend...for two reasons. 

*1st*: It helped diffuse the incoming Projected light, because most screens...textured surfaces not withstanding...were coming it at over 1.0 gain because most Projectors were far more dim than today's units (


----------



## golcarfel

Ilya Peltsverger said:


> FYI, I'm not sure if this is a mistake or not, but I will post this here anyway. Walmart selles Elite Screens AR120H-CLR for $1299 which generally goes for ~$2400.


Thanks for the heads up! Amazon also has it on sale. Picked up a 120" for $1299. Definitely a good deal. ^_^


----------



## g4s

For anyone who was wondering like me, the USB media player can read exFat drives. Good news for Mac users.


----------



## bix26

g4s said:


> For anyone who was wondering like me, the USB media player can read exFat drives. Good news for Mac users.




That means no 4gb cap on file sizes?


----------



## g4s

bix26 said:


> That means no 4gb cap on file sizes?


That's right.


----------



## barth2

Anybody knows if the lan port is gigabit?


----------



## bennutt

*Trigger Pulled!*

I found them in stock at Projector People.
One on the way next week along with an Elite Aeon CineGrey 3D screen (1.2 gain)

Woot!


----------



## klas

bennutt said:


> I found them in stock at Projector People.
> One on the way next week along with an Elite Aeon CineGrey 3D screen (1.2 gain)
> 
> Woot!


Congrats on P1, but I don't think that screen is ALR designed for UST so considering its price you can get ALR for UST for same $$$


----------



## ProjectionHead

bennutt said:


> I found them in stock at Projector People.
> One on the way next week along with an Elite Aeon CineGrey 3D screen (1.2 gain)
> 
> Woot!


That screen will not work with the P1; it is only for standard throw projectors and will negate the light coming form the extreme angle of a UST projector.


----------



## g4s

bennutt said:


> I found them in stock at Projector People.
> One on the way next week along with an Elite Aeon CineGrey 3D screen (1.2 gain)
> 
> Woot!


Like ProjectionHead said, better rethink that screen.
From Elite Screens product description "Angular-Reflective material is not compatible with ultra/short-throw projectors"


----------



## bennutt

ProjectionHead said:


> That screen will not work with the P1; it is only for standard throw projectors and will negate the light coming form the extreme angle of a UST projector.





klas said:


> Congrats on P1, but I don't think that screen is ALR designed for UST so considering its price you can get ALR for UST for same $$$


THANK YOU FOR THE QUICK HEADS UP!
I was able to switch my order to the Aeon CLR (StarBright) for short throws.
Side note, my vendor had a pretty extreme price drop on that screen so PM for details (I seem to remember pricing isn't allowed on AVS threads)


----------



## chinmokutak

ProjectionHead said:


> That screen will not work with the P1; it is only for standard throw projectors and will negate the light coming form the extreme angle of a UST projector.


just curious... what would happen if he was to use it with P1?


----------



## bennutt

chinmokutak said:


> just curious... what would happen if he was to use it with P1?


This explanation from the Elite site makes sense:

_ALR screen materials are typically made for standard “long-throw” projectors. As long as the projector and material are aligned in accordance with SMPTE standards, you will get optimal picture brightness, color-contrast, and black level dynamic range while off-axis light is essentially rejected. Because Short-throw and UST projectors spread out their light signal over a comparatively short distance, much of the light is off-axis and will therefore be rejected by the material. 

Materials like our Starbright CLR® are specifically designed for UST projectors. Their reflective microstructures are aligned to reflect the upward spread light signal from UST projectors into a viewer’s field of vision. At the same time, the “CLR®” rejects other forms of off-axis light such as regular room lighting, window light, ceiling light or even the direct signal from a standard throw projector._


----------



## g4s

chinmokutak said:


> just curious... what would happen if he was to use it with P1?


Spontaneous combustion?.... Just kiddin'


----------



## chinmokutak

bennutt said:


> This explanation from the Elite site makes sense:
> 
> _ALR screen materials are typically made for standard “long-throw” projectors. As long as the projector and material are aligned in accordance with SMPTE standards, you will get optimal picture brightness, color-contrast, and black level dynamic range while off-axis light is essentially rejected. Because Short-throw and UST projectors spread out their light signal over a comparatively short distance, much of the light is off-axis and will therefore be rejected by the material.
> 
> Materials like our Starbright CLR® are specifically designed for UST projectors. Their reflective microstructures are aligned to reflect the upward spread light signal from UST projectors into a viewer’s field of vision. At the same time, the “CLR®” rejects other forms of off-axis light such as regular room lighting, window light, ceiling light or even the direct signal from a standard throw projector._


so, it will look like light shining on ventablack? that's kinda cool lol


----------



## Koeikan

klas said:


> Not shipped. I ordered on 24th. When did everyone else order from Amazon?


I ordered on the 16th... still says arriving by tomorrow, but no movement yet. I've had pre-orders go both ways in similar situations /w Amazon. A couple showing up with basically overnight shipping and at least one that got punted the day it was supposed to show up. More pre-orders have showed up on time than the ones that haven't (but the more niche, less widespread release lowers my confidence in this case).

If I'm not in first batch, I'm cancelling and reevaluating over Black Friday.



bennutt said:


> This explanation from the Elite site makes sense:
> 
> _*ALR screen materials are typically made for standard “long-throw” projectors*. As long as the projector and material are aligned in accordance with SMPTE standards, you will get optimal picture brightness, color-contrast, and black level dynamic range while off-axis light is essentially rejected. Because Short-throw and UST projectors spread out their light signal over a comparatively short distance, much of the light is off-axis and will therefore be rejected by the material.
> 
> Materials like our Starbright CLR® are specifically designed for UST projectors. Their reflective microstructures are aligned to reflect the upward spread light signal from UST projectors into a viewer’s field of vision. At the same time, the “CLR®” rejects other forms of off-axis light such as regular room lighting, window light, ceiling light or even the direct signal from a standard throw projector._


Isn't this overall messaging fairly misleading? I'm still pretty noob to CLR/ALR, but there are ALR screens that are 'specifically designed' for UST projectors as well? If I read this blurb in a vacuum, I'd probably come away thinking CLR was inherently superior to ALR for UST projectors.


----------



## stfidel

bennutt said:


> THANK YOU FOR THE QUICK HEADS UP!
> I was able to switch my order to the Aeon CLR (StarBright) for short throws.
> Side note, my vendor had a pretty extreme price drop on that screen so PM for details (I seem to remember pricing isn't allowed on AVS threads)


sent you a PM, kindly share. Thanks


----------



## bix26

Koeikan said:


> I ordered on the 16th... still says arriving by tomorrow, but no movement yet. I've had pre-orders go both ways in similar situations /w Amazon. A couple showing up with basically overnight shipping and at least one that got punted the day it was supposed to show up. More pre-orders have showed up on time than the ones that haven't (but the more niche, less widespread release lowers my confidence in this case).
> 
> 
> 
> If I'm not in first batch, I'm cancelling and reevaluating over Black Friday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Isn't this overall messaging fairly misleading? I'm still pretty noob to CLR/ALR, but there are ALR screens that are 'specifically designed' for UST projectors as well? If I read this blurb in a vacuum, I'd probably come away thinking CLR was inherently superior to ALR for UST projectors.




Basically, UST’s need a specific type of screen if you want to reject ambient light. Standard NON-ALR screens will work just fine. The problem using a traditional ALR screen is that the light of axis including the UST’s light will be absorbed rather then reflected. UST specific screens have a unique lenticular surface that does the opposite, reflecting the light from one specific angle and absorbing light from other angles. These UST specific screens are called “Lenticular” and look like this:









If you want a more in depth explanation here is an article below:

https://www.soundandvision.com/cont...ient-light-rejecting-screens-perfect-together


----------



## chinmokutak

bix26 said:


> Basically, UST’s need a specific type of screen if you want to reject ambient light. Standard NON-ALR screens will work just fine. The problem using a traditional ALR screen is that the light of axis including the UST’s light will be absorbed rather then reflected. UST specific screens have a unique lenticular surface that does the opposite, reflecting the light from one specific angle and absorbing light from other angles. These UST specific screens are called “Lenticular” and look like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you want a more in depth explanation here is an article below:
> 
> https://www.soundandvision.com/cont...ient-light-rejecting-screens-perfect-together


I always wondered this, but how small are these angle, wouldn't these angle make the screens unrollable?


----------



## diggumsmax

chinmokutak said:


> I always wondered this, but how small are these angle, wouldn't these angle make the screens unrollable?


Typically there are several layers of fabric with some of the lauers using nanotechnology. SI was the first to come out with a motorized rollable one but many have speculated how these will hold up over time. Even most of the fixed frame ones comes with sprngs to make sure the screen never gets any creases due to the multiple layers. UST really does need a completely flat surface to get the best picture. 

From my research, Fresnel screens look the best and they are hard screens which can't be rolled and appear to weigh around 80 lbs plus, and they max out at 100 inches. I couldn't even find a price on one of these screens so they probably make SI seem cheap in comparison. I was researching screens on the YouTube's and they were comparing a XY CLR screen with a XY Fresnel screen using the exact same projector next to each other, exact same lighting, and the difference was night and day. I actually contacted some resellers in China but none of them would ship just one screen due to the weight and size. The only two downsides I've read about them are viewing angle and hot spotting. I was also very weary of ordering one from some no name reseller from China as well but they wouldn't even do it. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## chinmokutak

diggumsmax said:


> Typically there are several layers of fabric with some of the lauers using nanotechnology. SI was the first to come out with a motorized rollable one but many have speculated how these will hold up over time. Even most of the fixed frame ones comes with sprngs to make sure the screen never gets any creases due to the multiple layers. UST really does need a completely flat surface to get the best picture.
> 
> From my research, Fresnel screens look the best and they are hard screens which can't be rolled and appear to weigh around 80 lbs plus, and they max out at 100 inches. I couldn't even find a price on one of these screens so they probably make SI seem cheap in comparison. I was researching screens on the YouTube's and they were comparing a XY CLR screen with a XY Fresnel screen using the exact same projector next to each other, exact same lighting, and the difference was night and day. I actually contacted some resellers in China but none of them would ship just one screen due to the weight and size. The only two downsides I've read about them are viewing angle and hot spotting. I was also very weary of ordering one from some no name reseller from China as well but they wouldn't even do it.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Wait, so these screens come assembled? I would love that!!


----------



## diggumsmax

chinmokutak said:


> Wait, so these screens come assembled? I would love that!!


Not the lenticular one like the ones in the previous post Fresnel is new, expensive, and from what I can tell they are mostly being used by companies who want a large screen with all the lights on for presentations due to the viewing angles.

I'm pretty sure that the only fresnel screen you will be able to get in the states is from DNP, and I'm speculating that it cost way more than the highest end SI screen you can find. I could be wrong but like I said no one would ever give me a price on what these things cost. Usually that means they are crazy expensive. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## J Bone

diggumsmax said:


> Typically there are several layers of fabric with some of the lauers using nanotechnology. SI was the first to come out with a motorized rollable one but many have speculated how these will hold up over time. Even most of the fixed frame ones comes with sprngs to make sure the screen never gets any creases due to the multiple layers. UST really does need a completely flat surface to get the best picture.
> 
> From my research, Fresnel screens look the best and they are hard screens which can't be rolled and appear to weigh around 80 lbs plus, and they max out at 100 inches. I couldn't even find a price on one of these screens so they probably make SI seem cheap in comparison. I was researching screens on the YouTube's and they were comparing a XY CLR screen with a XY Fresnel screen using the exact same projector next to each other, exact same lighting, and the difference was night and day. I actually contacted some resellers in China but none of them would ship just one screen due to the weight and size. The only two downsides I've read about them are viewing angle and hot spotting. I was also very weary of ordering one from some no name reseller from China as well but they wouldn't even do it.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk




I was weary of ordering mine directly from a Chinese vendor as well. But went ahead and ordered from the manufacture Snowhite and couldn’t be more pleased. Got it for literally half the price of other US vendors for the exact same product. Around 750 all in all with shipping. I’ve been waiting for decent pricing to reflect for Fresnel type screens compared to my CLR type screen. But it seems no suppliers want to pull the trigger on buying enough quantities from XY or others to justify the shipping. But I think if the price was right, a lot of people would be more interested in them.

Here’s a good comparison I found showing the CLR vs Fresnel options.










Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## g4s

J Bone said:


> I was weary of ordering mine directly from a Chinese vendor as well. But went ahead and ordered from the manufacture Snowhite and couldn’t be more pleased. Got it for literally half the price of other US vendors for the exact same product. Around 750 all in all with shipping. I’ve been waiting for decent pricing to reflect for Fresnel type screens compared to my CLR type screen. But it seems no suppliers want to pull the trigger on buying enough quantities from XY or others to justify the shipping. But I think if the price was right, a lot of people would be more interested in them.
> 
> Here’s a good comparison I found showing the CLR vs Fresnel options.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I think I read someplace that Fresnel screens have a much narrower viewing angle than a CLR.


----------



## J Bone

g4s said:


> I think I read someplace that Fresnel screens have a much narrower viewing angle than a CLR.




100% true. It even says it in the full document that I clipped. I guess you have to pick and choose your priority.....best contrast and ambient light-rejection or off access viewing angles and no possible hotspotting.










Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## bix26

J Bone said:


> 100% true. It even says it in the full document that I clipped. I guess you have to pick and choose your priority.....best contrast and ambient light-rejection or off access viewing angles and no possible hotspotting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




The Fresnel Screens also have hard plastic protective layer that can have glare, such as the picture above. I could see this kind of canceling out the advantages it has over a lenticular screen. Besides at 100”s and it’s high cost, I think a really big 85”-100” tv might be a better and even more cost effective option.


----------



## klas

P1 not looking good for tomorrow delivery...


----------



## smajumdar

Nope.even amz seems to be out of stock. Painful!!! 😒😒😒


----------



## smajumdar

I am just going to put up my xy screen this weekend and stare at it for rest of the month.


----------



## Kev1000000

smajumdar said:


> I am just going to put up my xy screen this weekend and stare at it for rest of the month.


Yup, this is what I did. It makes the wait even harder though.


----------



## Mike Garrett

bix26 said:


> I acknowledged that the pixel density was not as high as 4k and that the experiment was crude. All the same I did move the paper towel much closer and took more pictures. The pictures below demonstrate a pixel density higher than what you would see on a 120” 4k screen. Yes, the geometry issues do get worse as you stated. However this is a result of the looseness of the paper towel scotch taped to thin card stock. I think it’s safe to say most screens even cheap ones will be at least MUCH flatter with less texture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (A Paper Towel “I still see pixels”)
> 
> View attachment 2622454
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going by the marketing material above that textured screens can’t resolve 4K content, wouldn’t all acoustically woven screen and lenticular (UST specific texture) screens be incompatible with 4k projectors? Nothing in the marketing material above has me convinced, anymore than marketing material claiming $3,000 speaker cables are better than $200 ones.
> 
> 
> 
> I’m only taking this up to counter the relentless sales pitches and marketing that’s been going on in these threads. If people would rather believe marketing material from Screen Innovations, Da Lite, and the rest of the most expensive screen manufacturers and their dealers such as yourself that’s fine. I just hope they save themselves some hard earned money and get samples from companies such as SilverTicket, ViewSonic, EliteScreens, XY Screens, or VividStorm before they do. I doubt there is much difference if any. In fact I’d speculate they’re made in the same factories and same machines. Honestly, I’m guessing the only difference is the markup.
> 
> 
> 
> Sometimes you pay more you get more like cars, watches, homes etc. where the R&D and raw materials are much costlier. Other times your only paying for a higher margin and a brands marketing budget.
> 
> 
> 
> I’ll let people draw their own conclusion, here. I rest my case. Hopefully, this thread can move back towards impartial opinions on the P1 rather than sales pitches and agendas (mine being just helping out fellow enthusiasts make informed decisions).


You are arguing a losing argument. Three questions with answers. Are the lines straight or jagged on the paper towel? Jagged. Are the lines supposed to be straight on the paper towel? Yes. If the surface was perfectly smooth, would the lines be straight, not jagged? They would be straight.


----------



## bix26

Mike Garrett said:


> You are arguing a losing argument. Two questions with answers. Are the lines straight on the paper towel? No. Are the lines supposed to be straight on the paper towel? Yes.




The point I was making is that texture has to be extremely rough in order to not resolve even the smallest of pixels. I wasn’t trying to make a point that paper towels scotched taped to card stock is a good tensioning system. Geometry is due to the wavy surface not the texture. Again, a crude experiment that imo clearly demonstrates that a texture would need to be horribly bad in order to fail to resolve 4k pixels.


----------



## Mike Garrett

bix26 said:


> The point I was making is that texture has to be extremely rough in order to not resolve even the smallest of pixels. I wasn’t trying to make a point that paper towels scotched taped to card stock is a good tensioning system. *Geometry is due to the wavy surface not the texture.* Again, a crude experiment that imo clearly demonstrates that a texture would need to be horribly bad in order to fail to resolve 4k pixels.


That is not true. Think about it. A dip in the fabric, allows the light to travel farther, so that shifts the edge of the line. A peak means the light travels a shorter distance, so the line is also shifted. Another way to prove it. Do your same experiment on a perfectly smooth surface and see how much sharper the edges of your pixels are. Nobody is saying you can't see the pixels. Were just saying the pixels are not as cleanly defined on a textured surface compared to a perfectly smooth surface. Get a sample of Stewart ST100 and compare it to pretty much anything out there. I am not telling you to buy it or spend any money. I am telling you to compare it and see for yourself. I and many others already have. I use a woven AT screen. A very smooth one (DreamScreen V6), but it will not compare sharpness wise with ST100, but my setup is more like a commercial theater, baffle wall with speakers and subs behind screen, so ST100 will not work and I view too close for microperf.


----------



## g4s

Looks like the race for the $200 reviews has begun. There's a couple on Amazon. I'm sure they don't have a P1 yet.


----------



## klas

g4s said:


> Looks like the race for the $200 reviews has begun. There's a couple on Amazon. I'm sure they don't have a P1 yet.


Nothing says these are reviews just fakes.


----------



## saneace

MississippiMan said:


> As someone who has been developing Projection Screen coatings since 2003, I feel I can offer some definitive information, and perhaps some advice here.
> 
> Even back in the days of 800 x 600 & 480i projected resolution, there were marked differences of how pixel grids were resolved between various screen textures.
> 
> But back then the case was that texture was your friend...for two reasons.
> 
> *1st*: It helped diffuse the incoming Projected light, because most screens...textured surfaces not withstanding...were coming it at over 1.0 gain because most Projectors were far more dim than today's units (


----------



## bix26

Mike Garrett said:


> That is not true. Think about it. A dip in the fabric, allows the light to travel farther, so that shifts the edge of the line. A peak means the light travels a shorter distance, so the line is also shifted. Another way to prove it. Do your same experiment on a perfectly smooth surface and see how much sharper the edges of your pixels are. Nobody is saying you can't see the pixels. Were just saying the pixels are not as cleanly defined on a textured surface compared to a perfectly smooth surface. Get a sample of Stewart ST100 and compare it to pretty much anything out there. I am not telling you to buy it or spend any money. I am telling you to compare it and see for yourself. I and many others already have. I use a woven AT screen. A very smooth one (DreamScreen V6), but it will not compare sharpness wise with ST100, but my setup is more like a commercial theater, baffle wall with speakers and subs behind screen, so ST100 will not work and I view too close for microperf.




I have no doubt that a Stewart Screen is better at resolving pixels than paper towel or even less expensive screens. I am certain that unless your staring at both screens from less than one or two feet away, those differences wont be noticeable. It’s not like making a smooth and flat vinyl, or plastic surface is rocket science that can only be achieved by the the very best brands in the industry. In fact I doubt there are more than a handful of machines or factories that make lenticular UST screen material. The limiting factors on screen sharpness aren’t the screen texture, it’s the glass in the lens and the persons eyesight. I have zero doubt that any difference in texture is totally inconsequential to these other technological limitations. It’s a technological bottleneck and that bottleneck is not the screen texture. 

If my crude demonstration doesn’t convince someone, I do hope they get samples of high end and affordable options before paying for something that is priced 3-4 times the price of their competitors. 

I’m not knocking someone who wants to spend 3-4 times the price for something that might only be 1% better and only noticeable to the most discerning eye with only the most high quality projectors with the highest quality optics. To some, with deep pockets and an obsession for perfection that 1% is worth it.


----------



## bennutt

Well this is disappointing...
Do you have to disable 4K entirely to even achieve a borderline game mode of 55ms??

From feature list:
55 ms latency in Game Mode (4K UHD, 60 Hz; SmartFIT and PureMotion must be disabled for Game Mode)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## solal-

No I asked on an amazon and optoma replied, you can play in 4k HDR 60hz at 55ms but you must desactivate smartfit and puremotion.
In fact they also told that there is not game mode in this version, only game display configuration that keep you're configuration preset, game mode will be added later but it will only disable smarfit and puremotion. As for others projectors the input lag come mostly from post processing on images that add latency that's why you have to disable most of them to have a correct input lag.


----------



## ProjectionHead

diggumsmax said:


> Typically there are several layers of fabric with some of the lauers using nanotechnology. SI was the first to come out with a motorized rollable one but many have speculated how these will hold up over time. Even most of the fixed frame ones comes with sprngs to make sure the screen never gets any creases due to the multiple layers. UST really does need a completely flat surface to get the best picture.
> 
> From my research, Fresnel screens look the best and they are hard screens which can't be rolled and appear to weigh around 80 lbs plus, and they max out at 100 inches. I couldn't even find a price on one of these screens so they probably make SI seem cheap in comparison. I was researching screens on the YouTube's and they were comparing a XY CLR screen with a XY Fresnel screen using the exact same projector next to each other, exact same lighting, and the difference was night and day. I actually contacted some resellers in China but none of them would ship just one screen due to the weight and size. The only two downsides I've read about them are viewing angle and hot spotting. I was also very weary of ordering one from some no name reseller from China as well but they wouldn't even do it.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Grandview will be introducing a Fresnel screen here in the USA hopefully by mid-November. I will post in the Screens sub once we have samples.


----------



## ProjectionHead

klas said:


> Nothing says these are reviews just fakes.


They are not "verified" reviews which means they won't be applicable for the gift certificate. The redemption form requires you to provide serial # in order to qualify.
I can't imagine Optoma rewarding people for leaving reviews before the could have possibly received the projector.
I suggest leaving the review on Optoma's own website as soon as you get your projector/serial #.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Mike Garrett said:


> That is not true. Think about it. A dip in the fabric, allows the light to travel farther, so that shifts the edge of the line. A peak means the light travels a shorter distance, so the line is also shifted. Another way to prove it. Do your same experiment on a perfectly smooth surface and see how much sharper the edges of your pixels are. Nobody is saying you can't see the pixels. Were just saying the pixels are not as cleanly defined on a textured surface compared to a perfectly smooth surface. Get a sample of Stewart ST100 and compare it to pretty much anything out there. I am not telling you to buy it or spend any money. I am telling you to compare it and see for yourself. I and many others already have. I use a woven AT screen. A very smooth one (DreamScreen V6), but it will not compare sharpness wise with ST100, but my setup is more like a commercial theater, baffle wall with speakers and subs behind screen, so ST100 will not work and I view too close for microperf.


Get out of here with your knowledge and experience! Didn't you see the paper towel? You're obviously a shill for "Big Projector Screen" 

Everyone, please, as I have suggested many times - go out and get some samples (You can contact Da-lite directly for them and they will send out for free - ask for their HD Progressive surfaces and get a fiberglass Matte White and a vinyl Da-Mat so you can see textured examples) and see the difference for yourself.

Obviously, its best to use an actual 4K projector instead of trying to simulate it, but if all you have is a 1080p then simulating it like Bix26 did will allow you to see the difference. 

Don't just look at a pixel grid either, watch some video content. Heck, that's why you bought the projector in the first place, right? You may not find that the benefit is worth the additional cost and there is nothing wrong with that; at least you are making an informed decision.

Have a local AV dealer? Go to their showroom and ask them to show you in person (and support them!)

Make up your own mind based on what you see with your own eyes, or listen to people with actual experience and not those who are just making assumptions that don't understand that there is more to a screen than simply being a sheet of vinyl. Texture is not the only factor in determining a screen surface's quality. There are multiple layers with different properties, treated by various chemicals and inflected with various materials in order to reflect the light with the desired outcome.

Here is a link from Legrand/Da-lite with some good info: https://www.legrandav.com/tools_and_training/training/projection_screen_academy

Yes, they are a manufacturer but I am certain they sell a LOT more non-4k surfaces than they do 4k+ surfaces.

Here is a rather technical interview regarding how a screens resolution is determined and why Da-lite claims their surfaces will resolve 16k: 




Want to learn more about screens? Check out the screen sub where this conversation/debate really belongs.

... Now, let's get back to talking about the Optoma P1


----------



## chinmokutak

solal- said:


> No I asked on an amazon and optoma replied, you can play in 4k HDR 60hz at 55ms but you must desactivate smartfit and puremotion.
> In fact they also told that there is not game mode in this version, only game display configuration that keep you're configuration preset, game mode will be added later but it will only disable smarfit and puremotion. As for others projectors the input lag come mostly from post processing on images that add latency that's why you have to disable most of them to have a correct input lag.


what's puremotion, is that the Optoma's version of the thing that causes soap opera efect?


----------



## Mike Garrett

bix26 said:


> I have no doubt that a Stewart Screen is better at resolving pixels than paper towel or even less expensive screens. I am certain that unless your staring at both screens from less than one or two feet away, those differences wont be noticeable. *It’s not like making a smooth and flat vinyl, or plastic surface is rocket science that can only be achieved by the the very best brands in the industry. *In fact I doubt there are more than a handful of machines or factories that make lenticular UST screen material. The limiting factors on screen sharpness aren’t the screen texture, it’s the glass in the lens and the persons eyesight. I have zero doubt that any difference in texture is totally inconsequential to these other technological limitations. It’s a technological bottleneck and that bottleneck is not the screen texture.
> 
> If my crude demonstration doesn’t convince someone, I do hope they get samples of high end and affordable options before paying for something that is priced 3-4 times the price of their competitors.
> 
> I’m not knocking someone who wants to spend 3-4 times the price for something that might only be 1% better and only noticeable to the most discerning eye with only the most high quality projectors with the highest quality optics. To some, with deep pockets and an obsession for perfection that 1% is worth it.


No not rocket science, if it was, I would ask my son.  But it must not be as easy as you think, because there are very few screens that are perfectly smooth and do not show artifacts. Even DaLite HD Pro surfaces show some artifacts (sparkle), but very little, so being pretty picky here. Stewart ST130 which is considered a reference screen also shows sparkle. I have never seen an ALR screen that did not show artifacts and I have seen most of what is on the market. You have to pick your poison as to what works best for you and your budget and live with the compromises.


----------



## solal-

ProjectionHead said:


> They are not "verified" reviews which means they won't be applicable for the gift certificate. The redemption form requires you to provide serial # in order to qualify.
> I can't imagine Optoma rewarding people for leaving reviews before the could have possibly received the projector.
> I suggest leaving the review on Optoma's own website as soon as you get your projector/serial #.



It seem some people already receive it, at least this guy https://twitter.com/hdtvpodcast/status/1179145501033168897 have it from the 1st


----------



## bennutt

solal- said:


> No I asked on an amazon and optoma replied, you can play in 4k HDR 60hz at 55ms but you must desactivate smartfit and puremotion.
> In fact they also told that there is not game mode in this version, only game display configuration that keep you're configuration preset, game mode will be added later but it will only disable smarfit and puremotion. As for others projectors the input lag come mostly from post processing on images that add latency that's why you have to disable most of them to have a correct input lag.


Well, I just cancelled my order at Projector People. I play games more than watch movies so this is too much of a gamble.
_Someone here looking for a unit might be able to snap it up _ They said end of November will be next availability.
next up - Epson LS500. I hope it drops things into the 30's at least.

Regarding the deactivation of smartfit... I'll be curious to see if people can line things up perfectly without it. Sounds like a forced "keystone mode" to make install easier, but adds processing time to constantly adjust the image?


----------



## bix26

ProjectionHead said:


> Get out of here with your knowledge and experience! Didn't you see the paper towel? You're obviously a shill for "Big Projector Screen"
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone, please, as I have suggested many times - go out and get some samples (You can contact Da-lite directly for them and they will send out for free - ask for their HD Progressive surfaces and get a fiberglass Matte White and a vinyl Da-Mat so you can see textured examples) and see the difference for yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> Obviously, its best to use an actual 4K projector instead of trying to simulate it, but if all you have is a 1080p then simulating it like Bix26 did will allow you to see the difference.
> 
> 
> 
> Don't just look at a pixel grid either, watch some video content. Heck, that's why you bought the projector in the first place, right? You may not find that the benefit is worth the additional cost and there is nothing wrong with that; at least you are making an informed decision.
> 
> 
> 
> Have a local AV dealer? Go to their showroom and ask them to show you in person (and support them!)
> 
> 
> 
> Make up your own mind based on what you see with your own eyes, or listen to people with actual experience and not those who are just making assumptions that don't understand that there is more to a screen than simply being a sheet of vinyl. Texture is not the only factor in determining a screen surface's quality. There are multiple layers with different properties, treated by various chemicals and inflected with various materials in order to reflect the light with the desired outcome.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a link from Legrand/Da-lite with some good info: https://www.legrandav.com/tools_and_training/training/projection_screen_academy
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, they are a manufacturer but I am certain they sell a LOT more non-4k surfaces than they do 4k+ surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a rather technical interview regarding how a screens resolution is determined and why Da-lite claims their surfaces will resolve 16k: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rxhOLI2RV6I&list=PLdkYdMbXRr5BFj4qdHxKNPtzaqbucqA2S&index=29&t=0s
> 
> 
> 
> Want to learn more about screens? Check out the screen sub where this conversation/debate really belongs.
> 
> 
> 
> ... Now, let's get back to talking about the Optoma P1




Wow “Arc Minutes” and “16k”, I’m very excited! When I build my ocean front beach house in Arizona I’m definitely buying a “16k certified” screen! Does the screen come with binoculars? Never mind by the time 16k is available I’m sure there will be bionic eye implants that allow me to see those microscopic pixels


----------



## solal-

bennutt said:


> Well, I just cancelled my order at Projector People. I play games more than watch movies so this is too much of a gamble.
> _Someone here looking for a unit might be able to snap it up _ They said end of November will be next availability.
> next up - Epson LS500. I hope it drops things into the 30's at least.
> 
> Regarding the deactivation of smartfit... I'll be curious to see if people can line things up perfectly without it. Sounds like a forced "keystone mode" to make install easier, but adds processing time to constantly adjust the image?



Same thing for me, I play a lot, currently I have a sony HW55ES and it has 22ms in reference mode, so with calibrated color, and it seem it's not possible to have an equivalent today with has much contrast and input lag in UST, but as I'm moving and will have a shortest living room I have no choice that buying an UST  . Effectively you should have to line up perfectly if you don't use keystone, as I never had an UST I don't know how difficult it is, but from what I read on different forum is not simple, and lot more complicated than with a traditional projector, also you should be sure that your projector or tv benches never move at all so it's sound complicated. 



I asked Optoma on Amazon what's the input lag with keystone and/or puremotion activated (I use the equivalent functionality on my sony for some game and it's still playable), but they didn't answer, so it's not a good sign (they answered other of my questions). I also asked them what's the native contrast of the projector and they answered me : "
*"Hello - we do not release native contrast data. An avid user of displays and projectors - I can tell you that CinemaX P1 (and UHZ65) delivers the best black levels in our 4K UHD HDR Product Line (consumer). You should find the black levels of CinemaX P1 quite satisfying. Apologize for not being able to share native contrast data yet we hope you will take the plunge. "* That's not a good sign too ..., the LS500 have a native contrast of 1440 (before calibration I think) so it's not that bad for an UST, and it also should have a good input lag, the problem is that it need to be far from the wall has the ratio is larger than the optoma, anyway as I have only 3 meters from wall to wall, 100" is sufficient for me, so maybe it could be ok for me.


----------



## Kdub69

Just wondering if theres a way to get better input lag for games besides turing off smarfit and smooth effect. For example can I play games in 1080p would that make the input lag better? Obviously I want to watch movies in 4k


----------



## arron.rouse

solal- said:


> the LS500 have a native contrast of 1440 (before calibration I think)


Where did you get that number from? I've been hunting the web for days trying to find anything like that and have come up empty. The previous model, the LS100, had a native contrast of ~300:1 and the lack of reviews or info is what has prevented me from biting the bullet on the LS500.


----------



## solal-

In this video (in french) 



 the guy (from epson) say the LS500 contrast is of 1440:1, he also say that the LS100 contrast was 300:1 so even if it's a sales man from epson he seems honest as it told the truth at least for the LS100.


----------



## smajumdar

Anyone got units shipped from amz? Mine has not shipped. Pre ordered it on 9/12. Did anyone contact amz customer service and or have any updates if units were allocated or not?


----------



## klas

smajumdar said:


> Anyone got units shipped from amz? Mine has not shipped. Pre ordered it on 9/12. Did anyone contact amz customer service and or have any updates if units were allocated or not?


I don't think they received their allocation could be today or tomorrow. Just speculating here, although delivery says for today I am more then sure it would get notification soon "running late" or we are out of stock since I ordered late.


----------



## LANman247

smajumdar said:


> Anyone got units shipped from amz? Mine has not shipped. Pre ordered it on 9/12. Did anyone contact amz customer service and or have any updates if units were allocated or not?


I pre-ordered mine from Amazon on September 6th, but I still haven't been charged or notified that it has shipped. I might contact Amazon tomorrow regarding availability depending on how the status of my order changes today (I expect my "Arriving today by 8pm " status to be updated later after they've failed to meet their estimate).


----------



## saneace

I have no confidence whatsoever that this is accurate, but perhaps it will save others the trouble of fooling with it. I had hoped that this might do an end-run around the current "not going to happen" shipping projection of today and tell me something new about where matters stand. No such luck.


----------



## klas

saneace said:


> I have no confidence whatsoever that this is accurate, but perhaps it will save others the trouble of fooling with it. I had hoped that this might do an end-run around the current "not going to happen" shipping projection of today and tell me something new about where matters stand. No such luck.


It looks like it's an automated reply or bot speaking to you


----------



## saneace

klas said:


> It looks like it's an automated reply or bot speaking to you


Of course it is a bot and I expected it to be. However, it would not have been the first time that I submitted what is functionally the same query to a computer system twice using two separate doors and received two separate answers.


----------



## outofit

bennutt said:


> This explanation from the Elite site makes sense:
> 
> _ALR screen materials are typically made for standard “long-throw” projectors. As long as the projector and material are aligned in accordance with SMPTE standards, you will get optimal picture brightness, color-contrast, and black level dynamic range while off-axis light is essentially rejected. Because Short-throw and UST projectors spread out their light signal over a comparatively short distance, much of the light is off-axis and will therefore be rejected by the material.
> 
> Materials like our Starbright CLR® are specifically designed for UST projectors. Their reflective microstructures are aligned to reflect the upward spread light signal from UST projectors into a viewer’s field of vision. At the same time, the “CLR®” rejects other forms of off-axis light such as regular room lighting, window light, ceiling light or even the direct signal from a standard throw projector._


Can you pm me info on where I can get the starbright CLR screen?


----------



## bennutt

outofit said:


> Can you pm me info on where I can get the starbright CLR screen?




Yep. Done.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## saneace

If your Amazon order has not yet updated to delivery TBD, then there is a good chance it soon will. Disclaimer: I can only speak to my personal experience with Amazon, your individual mileage may vary, and just giving a heads up. Canceled my Amazon order and placed one with a different vendor (same price) to remain on track to get one of first units. If you are settled on P1 and want to get one the 1st round, then you may want to explore alternatives now.


----------



## klas

Yeah, got the "order delayed from Amazon" as expected.


----------



## saneace

klas said:


> Yeah, got the "order delayed from Amazon" as expected.


The attendant email was really cute.


----------



## smajumdar

Which vendor did you use to buy? Is it a pre order or guaranteed delivery?


----------



## saneace

smajumdar said:


> Which vendor did you use to buy? Is it a pre order or guaranteed delivery?


First, want all to know that I do not have any affiliation with the vendor and stand to gain nothing by recounting the substance of my conversation with the vendor's sales rep. Along the same lines, I am not offering an opinion or claiming to have any first hand knowledge about what is happening with the P1. With that disclaimer out of the way, the substitute vendor that I used is Projector People. Sales rep I spoke with advised that they got 15 of them, 6 were already spoken for, and they are hitting shelves tomorrow (which is consistent with an earlier post in this thread). I claimed number 7 and should receive it Tuesday. Asked sales rep if she was aware of what was going on with the supply chain on these PJ's. She advised that it is is possible that as few as 50 of these made it into the country in the first wave. As to this point, do keep in mind that I was putting her on the spot with the question and more or less inviting her to speculate, so if her answer was informed by rumor or so forth, that is perfectly in bounds. I was already in the process of buying the thing at that point and just curious. Also is perhaps noteworthy that she stated they did not expect to receive any more of them until November, which is also consistent with one (or perhaps more) earlier posts in this thread.


----------



## saneace

ProjectionHead said:


> *P1 Update:*
> The units have left Optoma's facility with an ETA in NJ of Friday. All hands will be on deck to double-box them up and get them back out the same day. Everyone will receive their serial # with their tracking information so that they can be assured to be one of the first 200 people to leave a review on Optoma's website and get that $200 gift card.
> 
> As expected, Amazon is backorderd on these. I'm interested to know if anyone who ordered from them gets their units or if/when they are told that they are backordered and when they will arrive.
> 
> Fortunately some specialty resellers may have bought a boatload of P1s and may have a couple still available from this first wave.
> 
> The next round of P1s will not be available until mid-November so hopefully you get lucky on this first round.





ProjectionHead said:


> Scratch that... these are likely sold out everywhere. Hopefully you got your pre-order in!


Just want to give credit where it is due here because pretty much everything I heard is consistent with what is stated here. Also, author was just making an educated guess about the prospects of getting one if you did not have one on pre-order already, so he can hardly be faulted because I ended up tracking one down. His primary point holds just the same.

(edit to clean up quotes)


----------



## ProjectionHead

bix26 said:


> Wow “Arc Minutes” and “16k”, I’m very excited! When I build my ocean front beach house in Arizona I’m definitely buying a “16k certified” screen! Does the screen come with binoculars? Never mind by the time 16k is available I’m sure there will be bionic eye implants that allow me to see those microscopic pixels


Let me know when you are ready, I'll be glad to hook you up


----------



## ProjectionHead

saneace said:


> First, want all to know that I do not have any affiliation with the vendor and stand to gain nothing by recounting the substance of my conversation with the vendor's sales rep. Along the same lines, I am not offering an opinion or claiming to have any first hand knowledge about what is happening with the P1. With that disclaimer out of the way, the substitute vendor that I used is Projector People. Sales rep I spoke with advised that they got 15 of them, 6 were already spoken for, and they are hitting shelves tomorrow (which is consistent with an earlier post in this thread). I claimed number 7 and should receive it Tuesday. Asked sales rep if she was aware of what was going on with the supply chain on these PJ's. She advised that it is is possible that as few as 50 of these made it into the country in the first wave. As to this point, do keep in mind that I was putting her on the spot with the question and more or less inviting her to speculate, so if her answer was informed by rumor or so forth, that is perfectly in bounds. I was already in the process of buying the thing at that point and just curious. Also is perhaps noteworthy that she stated they did not expect to receive any more of them until November, which is also consistent with one (or perhaps more) earlier posts in this thread.


There was definitely more than 50 units in the US... I can say that as a fact. I'm surprised ProjectorPeople only bought 15 and even more surprised they haven't sold out yet. If you are still looking for one, I suggest you reach out to them ASAP as they may be your last good chance until November.


----------



## chinmokutak

ProjectionHead said:


> There was definitely more than 50 units in the US... I can say that as a fact. I'm surprised ProjectorPeople only bought 15 and even more surprised they haven't sold out yet. If you are still looking for one, I suggest you reach out to them ASAP as they may be your last good chance until November.


have you received it yet?


----------



## ProjectionHead

The P1s have left the building! Unfortunately a couple got banged up on the way here so we may be giving our demo unit to a customer while we wait for our smaller shipment next week. After those come in, no more until November 

Been hearing from a LOT of people who got bumped from their Amazon pre-order; with their orders submitted to AMZ over a month ago. I wouldn't be surprised if all of their backorders are not filled with the next wave coming in November.... unlike the smaller specialty shops who were smart enough to place a huge replenishment order early to ensure they can cover all existing and new backorders 

Did anyone here actually get a shipment notification and confirmation from Amazon that they are getting their P1?


** support your local AV dealer; they will take better care of you than Amazon will!


----------



## Gae80uk

Actually there is 1 review (out of 5) on the Optoma website with actual P1 pic playing content...so someone must have received it :/


----------



## ProjectionHead

Gae80uk said:


> Actually there is 1 review (out of 5) on the Optoma website with actual P1 pic playing content...so someone must have received it :/


Yup; they were the first in the country to receive it - one of only 3 units able to be dropshipped (AmyJ)


----------



## Gae80uk

What a life! People are rushing to spend $3.3k but they can't due to limited units! 🤣


----------



## LANman247

ProjectionHead said:


> Did anyone here actually get a shipment notification and confirmation from Amazon that they are getting their P1?


 I wish! I placed my order through Amazon on 9/6, and I got the same bump yesterday as others here described.

Is the dealer locator on Optoma's site accurate? The Optoma dealers listed around me (Orange County, CA) seem to be only companies that do complete business installations, and not meant for consumers. I did some calling around and was ultimately told that I would have better luck finding one online :\


----------



## klas

ProjectionHead said:


> The P1s have left the building! Unfortunately a couple got banged up on the way here so we may be giving our demo unit to a customer while we wait for our smaller shipment next week. After those come in, no more until November
> 
> Been hearing from a LOT of people who got bumped from their Amazon pre-order; with their orders submitted to AMZ over a month ago. I wouldn't be surprised if all of their backorders are not filled with the next wave coming in November.... unlike the smaller specialty shops who were smart enough to place a huge replenishment order early to ensure they can cover all existing and new backorders
> 
> Did anyone here actually get a shipment notification and confirmation from Amazon that they are getting their P1?
> 
> 
> ** support your local AV dealer; they will take better care of you than Amazon will!


I didn't have high hopes that Amazon would ship my late order, but now I am ok to wait for the next wave since I will be traveling for a while. I am all for supporting local, but at the time it's difficult to justify going with anything besides Amazon for this high value item. First of all no 20% restocking fee if anything and if you have amazon cc you get 5% back (~$180) which pretty much same as what Optoma would pay for review if you managed to make it in that first wave...


----------



## Tyler Duncan

Brian, were all your orders able to be filled, even with having to swap out the damaged units?


----------



## ProjectionHead

Tyler Duncan said:


> Brian, were all your orders able to be filled, even with having to swap out the damaged units?


Anyone who ordered in August is absolutely set. Most of September as well. Emails with tracking from today's wave and instructions on how to claim the $200 will be sent out shortly.


----------



## ProjectionHead

klas said:


> I didn't have high hopes that Amazon would ship my late order, but now I am ok to wait for the next wave since I will be traveling for a while. I am all for supporting local, but at the time it's difficult to justify going with anything besides Amazon for this high value item. First of all no 20% restocking fee if anything and if you have amazon cc you get 5% back (~$180) which pretty much same as what Optoma would pay for review if you managed to make it in that first wave...


Never hurts to present that to your local dealer. They are usually happy to take a sale away from Amazon.


----------



## solal-

Gae80uk said:


> Actually there is 1 review (out of 5) on the Optoma website with actual P1 pic playing content...so someone must have received it :/



As I said before this guy : https://twitter.com/hdtvpodcast/status/1179145501033168897 got it the 1st. Also it seems that they sell lot of them in Hongkong reseller and clients started to post some pics.


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## Gae80uk

@solal- do you have a link to share about these posts with pics?


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## diggumsmax

ProjectionHead said:


> Anyone who ordered in August is absolutely set. Most of September as well. Emails with tracking from today's wave and instructions on how to claim the $200 will be sent out shortly.


I can confirm! I haven't gotten an email yet but the tracking number is listed on the my orders page. I pre-ordered on 08/17. Now, time to hit F5 on the UPS site. It must of just shipped as it's not in UPS's system yet. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Gae80uk

Found this FB link from HK/China with few pics of P1 in action with a 100" ALR screen...looks amazing :O

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=2763929660285979&id=124385380907100


----------



## smajumdar

Where can we find instructions on how to claim the $200 for reviews? Is it on optoma site?


----------



## g4s

diggumsmax said:


> I can confirm! I haven't gotten an email yet but the tracking number is listed on the my orders page. I pre-ordered on 08/17. Now, time to hit F5 on the UPS site. It must of just shipped as it's not in UPS's system yet.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Me too, got my email with the tracking number. I ordered on 9/7....Woo-hoo!!!


----------



## diggumsmax

smajumdar said:


> Where can we find instructions on how to claim the $200 for reviews? Is it on optoma site?


If you ordered from projector screen the instructions are in the email. Below is a cut and paste from Optoma's website.

Earn a $200 Visa Gift Card!
Be one of the first 200 CinemaX P1 purchasers to leave a product review

on Optoma.com/us or Amazon.com and you’ll be eligible to receive a $200 Visa Gift Card!

Online claim form coming soon with more details!



Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Koeikan

Anyone in communication w/ any Optoma reps, etc? I'm curious what's going on w/ the Amazon orders. Did Amazon get any? Are they en route or did all of their allocations delayed to the second wave?


----------



## smajumdar

Thanks @saneace for the info. I was able to claim one too just in time from projector people. Estimated delivery next wednesday? And also canceled my amz order. Not sure whts going on with amz orders.


----------



## roodof

I need to mount a 100" fixed frame in a corner,any suggestions,videos for this kind of undertaking?


----------



## LANman247

For those still interested in Amazon order updates, I just got an email with an update to my pre-order:


> Placed on Friday, September 6, 2019. Your new estimated delivery date is: * Monday, October 7, 2019 - Thursday, October 10, 2019*


----------



## saneace

smajumdar said:


> Thanks @saneace for the info. I was able to claim one too just in time from projector people. Estimated delivery next wednesday? And also canceled my amz order. Not sure whts going on with amz orders.


Pleased to hear that it worked out for you bud. My delivery is set for Tuesday, but likely that is just a function of where we are are located relative to shipping source, which looks to be Tampa, FL or thereabouts, in my case anyway. Email that Amazon sent me by way of explanation was roughly: "Sorry, it looks like you did not order direct from us, and the third-party does not have it, tough luck." That might be plausible if the seller identified with purchase was not "Amazon.com Services, Inc." Translation: "Sorry, not my fault, blame my subsidiary." In fairness, if you actually start to check into Amazon Services, Inc. and what that means, things gets more complex. However, if Amazon.com is stamped on a listing, then the average consumer can certainly be forgiven for assuming Amazon stands behind it. Welcome to the corporate shell game.


----------



## ursnirmalt

bennutt said:


> Yep. Done.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


can you please PM elite screen details


----------



## solal-

Gae80uk said:


> Found this FB link from HK/China with few pics of P1 in action with a 100" ALR screen...looks amazing :O
> 
> https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=2763929660285979&id=124385380907100



And this one to : https://m.mobile01.com/topicdetail.php?f=347&t=5916881


----------



## newtodirecttv

*Elite Screen & Optoma*



ursnirmalt said:


> can you please PM elite screen details


Can you PM me the Elite Screen info as well?


----------



## diggumsmax

newtodirecttv said:


> Can you PM me the Elite Screen info as well?


Just thought I would add that there is a difference from CLR vs ALR based off a conversation with a retailer. CLR (ceiling light rejection) really doesn't block light from the side, at least not as good as ALR. That is why they are more expensive. For UST the only middle ground I've found is Grandview. True ALR UST screen but a lot cheaper than SI and Da-lite parallax but more than the aeon. If I'm mistaken, let me know

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## newtodirecttv

diggumsmax said:


> Just thought I would add that there is a difference from CLR vs ALR based off a conversation with a retailer. CLR (ceiling light rejection) really doesn't block light from the side, at least not as good as ALR. That is why they are more expensive. For UST the only middle ground I've found is Grandview. True ALR UST screen but a lot cheaper than SI and Da-lite parallax.
> 
> There is also fresnel. These by foreseeing the best for ambient light rejection. Better than any ALR or CLR screens. Three drawbacks are limited viewing angle compared to CLR/UST, potential hotspotting (some say it's noticable, others say it osnt.) and that they are hard screens so the aren't rollable so shipping is fun. They also max out at 100.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Is Grandview a brand? Happen to have a link?


----------



## diggumsmax

newtodirecttv said:


> Is Grandview a brand? Happen to have a link?


Yes, I believe they make some of the fabric for vividstorm but I could be wrong, below are some links. I do suggest talking to a good dealer. They can give you way more first hand information (which is where I learned that Grandview was actually an option). For some unknown reason, Grandview is terrible at marketing imo. Projector head also mention earlier in this thread that they are making a Fresnel screen but the exact release date and price are unknown. 

https://www.grandviewscreenusa.com/cyber-motorized-series

https://www.projectorscreen.com/gra...rejecting-screen-100-49x87-16-9-0-6-gain.html

I just wanted to add that the response from elite is misleading. While technically true, they are comparing their aeon UST to regular throw ALR screens. Sneaky wording as they are not comparing them to the new UST ALR screen.

ALR screen materials are typically made for standard “long-throw” projectors

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## g4s

Just saw on Amazon, Only one left in stock (more on the way).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VDP29TX/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
Might just have been another Amazon quirk.


----------



## bennutt

diggumsmax said:


> Just thought I would add that there is a difference from CLR vs ALR based off a conversation with a retailer. CLR (ceiling light rejection) really doesn't block light from the side, at least not as good as ALR. That is why they are more expensive. For UST the only middle ground I've found is Grandview. True ALR UST screen but a lot cheaper than SI and Da-lite parallax but more than the aeon. If I'm mistaken, let me know
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk



Interesting point. I was going to install the screen in a recessed wall so side light wasn’t a concern. Would have to be a very specific material pattern to accept light from the ground up only.... is that really the magic gimmick with screens that cost as much as the projector?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bix26

bennutt said:


> Interesting point. I was going to install the screen in a recessed wall so side light wasn’t a concern. Would have to be a very specific material pattern to accept light from the ground up only.... is that really the magic gimmick with screens that cost as much as the projector?
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




For UST projectors you have three options. First being just an ordinary white screen. Suitable in dark rooms or rooms with minimal ambient light. Second, and most common are lenticular screens, sometimes called “sawtooth” or “CLR”. Lenticular screens are a great option for all but the brightest lit rooms. Lastly, there are Fresnel type screens, overkill for most rooms other than fully lit rooms. Made of several layers of hard plastic the are more costly and typically only available in 100” or less screen sizes.

The only screens not suitable for a UST projector are traditional non ALR (ambient light rejecting) screens. This is because these screens treat the UST as ambient light, absorbing the picture rather than reflecting it.

Here are some diagrams of “Lenticular” and “Fresnal” type screens.










(Lenticular)












(Fresnel)


----------



## MississippiMan

To quote Yoda, "There is another.........................."


There are a very few certain Screen Paint mixes that combine added gain and contrast / color enhancing elements, but also tamper down the Gain-induced Angular Refection that would grossly attenuate the image as seen from a Viewing Level position. By creating a surface that can accept and reflect intense projected light coming in at an extreme angle while also attenuating less energetic light from other directions

Clearly, over the years there have been almost no "Screen Mfg" ideas that have not been able to be tackled and achieved using advanced Paint formulas and specific application methods (spraying) Even Multi-Layered Film-based ALR Screens have been closely matched with Paint, and one AVS Member has mastered Multi-layered Laminate construction for extreme ALR.(...sadly it is not for UST) the actually The ability to have a high performance Paint to do the job plays well for the penchant of most UST Mfg as well as Consumers to want to try a "Shoot directly onto the Wall itself" application. 

Naturally, those who are in the Screen Mfg. business have turned back to older Mfg. Screen concepts such as *Lenticular*...and to a much smaller degree *Fresnel* designs...while a very few utilize a variation of multi-layed films, each with different counteracting / assistive properties.

(*Lenticular* design suits Front Projection......*Fresnel* design is best suited to Rear Projection )



All such entries / reentries are over priced, and yet still limited in size, and being so amount to mostly being opportune cash grab attempts to fill a sudden (and prophetically) burgeoning new targeted market.

A UST Projector's main appeal from the onset was the ability to project LARGE imagery onto a Wall from extremely close distances. Try to find an advertisement "by the PJ Mfg" that shows the image being projected onto a Screen. Only a semi-vocal clamor for ALR performance has led to the recent marketing attempts, obviously ignoring the easiest, most affordable methods.

Yes...absolutely, people who want / need all aspects of Image watching (Dark & Lit Rooms )because the UST is a Family TV replacement must, out of unfortunate lack of choice, consider a smaller, expensive Mfg screen with specialist properties.

Worse news...there are now a few selling supposedly UST-ALR Screens...at a premium...and the stated performance gains and attributes are sorely lacking. Really...if you must have a Mfg UST -ALR Screen, and payout an appreciable sum, it should actually do the job! Choose wisely based on vetted evaluations....not Sales hype.

..............or try an advanced Paint solution...paint the entire wall for under $350.00...and have unrestricted size and format availability. Oh yeah...and some great AL*R*(resistant) ability. It's the AL*R*(rejection) aspect that muddies up the "Cost vs Performance" ratio.


So....at this juncture, the best, safest method to turn to....if the Wall makes it possible...is to project upon a well prepared Wall.


----------



## J Bone

MississippiMan said:


> To quote Yoda, "There is another.........................."
> 
> 
> There are a very few certain Screen Paint mixes that combine added gain and contrast / color enhancing elements, but also tamper down the Gain-induced Angular Refection that would grossly attenuate the image as seen from a Viewing Level position. By creating a surface that can accept and reflect intense projected light coming in at an extreme angle while also attenuating less energetic light from other directions
> 
> Clearly, over the years there have been almost no "Screen Mfg" ideas that have not been able to be tackled and achieved using advanced Paint formulas and specific application methods (spraying) Even Multi-Layered Film-based ALR Screens have been closely matched with Paint, and one AVS Member has mastered Multi-layered Laminate construction for extreme ALR.(...sadly it is not for UST) the actually The ability to have a high performance Paint to do the job plays well for the penchant of most UST Mfg as well as Consumers to want to try a "Shoot directly onto the Wall itself" application.
> 
> Naturally, those who are in the Screen Mfg. business have turned back to older Mfg. Screen concepts such as *Lenticular*...and to a much smaller degree *Fresnel* designs...while a very few utilize a variation of multi-layed films, each with different counteracting / assistive properties.
> 
> (*Lenticular* design suits Front Projection......*Fresnel* design is best suited to Rear Projection )
> 
> 
> 
> All such entries / reentries are over priced, and yet still limited in size, and being so amount to mostly being opportune cash grab attempts to fill a sudden (and prophetically) burgeoning new targeted market.
> 
> A UST Projector's main appeal from the onset was the ability to project LARGE imagery onto a Wall from extremely close distances. Try to find an advertisement "by the PJ Mfg" that shows the image being projected onto a Screen. Only a semi-vocal clamor for ALR performance has led to the recent marketing attempts, obviously ignoring the easiest, most affordable methods.
> 
> Yes...absolutely, people who want / need all aspects of Image watching (Dark & Lit Rooms )because the UST is a Family TV replacement must, out of unfortunate lack of choice, consider a smaller, expensive Mfg screen with specialist properties.
> 
> Worse news...there are now a few selling supposedly UST-ALR Screens...at a premium...and the stated performance gains and attributes are sorely lacking. Really...if you must have a Mfg UST -ALR Screen, and payout an appreciable sum, it should actually do the job! Choose wisely based on vetted evaluations....not Sales hype.
> 
> ..............or try an advanced Paint solution...paint the entire wall for under $350.00...and have unrestricted size and format availability. Oh yeah...and some great AL*R*(resistant) ability. It's the AL*R*(rejection) aspect that muddies up the "Cost vs Performance" ratio.
> 
> 
> So....at this juncture, the best, safest method to turn to....if the Wall makes it possible...is to project upon a well prepared Wall.


Although I agree with @MississippiMan that paint is a possible option, I must disagree that it is a comprable option to fixed screens. It's not the paint and its capabilities that is the problem. It is the wall that it is projected on. The smallest imperfection in the wall distorts and warps the actual image for UST projectors. If you research early adopters of UST projectors whom projected onto a wall they complained that something was wrong with their projector and how it distorted the image. After further research they found that it was actually the wall that was warped from stud to stud behind the wall on the sheet rock.









Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

bennutt said:


> Interesting point. I was going to install the screen in a recessed wall so side light wasn’t a concern. Would have to be a very specific material pattern to accept light from the ground up only.... is that really the magic gimmick with screens that cost as much as the projector?
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


If your not worried about light from the side then a CLR screen would make a difference with ambient light in the room. There are other factors to consider like the color of the room, ect.. as light bounces of various places back towards the sceeen. This has always been the case for any projector. 

Maybe projector head or someone else can clear this up but based of variois dealers I have talked to said that there is a difference between ALR and CLR UST screens which is why Elite uses CLR instead of ALR in the name. CLR would not block light from a window or any other light source from the side. This is all based of a conversation over the phone so someone who has actually seen demos on all the various screens would be able to answer this question better than me.

With all that said, I just noticed that there is an amazing deal on the Elite Aeon CLR right now at projectorscreen website. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

Fresnel design is best suited to Rear Projection )

Mississippiman, there may be some other Fresnel screens out there but the ones for UST are hard screens and they can't do rear projection. This is a picture of the back of XY fresnel screen. Paint is simply not an option for me as me for the reasons j bone already mentioned.

I think I'm about to start a thread in the screens area. This is the P1 thread and I think this conversation is going to be coming up a lot more as UST projectors get more popular.









Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Detective2019!

Hello my friends, my name is Saul. I ordered my optoma P1 on Amazon and I already left a review on the site. I just received an email from Amazon that I'll have my projector by tomorrow 8pm. I also have a tracking number. I preordered mines Sep 8th.


----------



## solal-

Just find a review of the P1 on a Chinese site : http://projector.zol.com.cn/724/7244733_all.html


This is a google translate of a part of the review : 



The measured data shows that the Optoma P1 - TV laser TV has a peak brightness of 3135 lumens, which almost reaches the product standard; the maximum brightness is 3,026 lumens, and the performance is excellent; the ANSI brightness is 2,618 ANSI lumens, enough to ensure that the lights are turned on during the day or night. In the state, a clear picture of a large screen is projected, and the user does not have to worry about the problem of shading.

The Optoma P1 - TV laser TV has an ANSI contrast ratio of 105:1, which achieves a good standard. The projected image will be very layered; the measured color temperature is 8674K, and the picture style will be closer to the traditional LCD TV. LCD friends will be more accustomed to this style.


----------



## diggumsmax

Started a thread for screens

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...&share_fid=47413&share_type=t&link_source=app

If Tapatalk doesnt work then you can find it in the projectorscreen sub forum. Topic is UST screens, CLR vs ALR vs Fresnel. 

So, people are giving reviews before they actually get the projector? I find it highly unlikely that I'll get the projector in time to make the first 200. I do hope Optoma is verifying purchase via serial number for these reviews but I know Amazon isn't. Either way my P1 will be here Wednesday and I'll be posting screen shots. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## MississippiMan

J Bone said:


> Although I agree with @*MississippiMan* that paint is a possible option, I must disagree that it is a comprable option to fixed screens. It's not the paint and its capabilities that is the problem. It is the wall that it is projected on. The smallest imperfection in the wall distorts and warps the actual image for UST projectors. If you research early adopters of UST projectors whom projected onto a wall they complained that something was wrong with their projector and how it distorted the image. After further research they found that it was actually the wall that was warped from stud to stud behind the wall on the sheet rock.



The need for an acceptably smooth, blemish free surface is of course something that is candidly understood.....as it is no difference than what is needed and desired in any standard Projection surface. A specialty of mine is the instruction of how to create such a surface, or in lue of that, using a Mfg materials as one's substrate. Sorry if my knowing how elemental such a overview is that I failed to relate that...however it's more really a case of not wanting t elaborate on DIY techniques on a PJ threads.



As far as any other solution to be pursued in getting a Wall made acceptable, I can assure you that the cost of hiring out the refinishing one wall to such a smoothed state would be less than 1/3rd the cost of even the smallest Grandview UST-ALR screen (100")




diggumsmax said:


> Fresnel design is best suited to Rear Projection )
> 
> Mississippiman, there may be some other Fresnel screens out there but the ones for UST are hard screens and they can't do rear projection. This is a picture of the back of XY fresnel screen. Paint is simply not an option for me as me for the reasons j bone already mentioned.
> 
> I think I'm about to start a thread in the screens area. This is the P1 thread and I think this conversation is going to be coming up a lot more as UST projectors get more popular.



90% of all RPTVs had Fresnel Screens...because that technique was ideally suited for such...hence why I related their current use as being sporadic at best.



The adaptation of Fresnel lens'ing to Front Projection has created Screens with extremely low gain....less than .5 in most cases, and while the desired ALR effect is achieved, it comes a a price...one that can only be paid for by a PJ having a preponderance of Lumen output and the Screen needing to be fairly small so as to utilize those Lumen as effectively as possible.


No...a Painted Wall would not be for everyone....some could not avail themselves no matter what, but it is a great option for those who cannot or would not consider a $3K+ Screen supposedly designed to accept a UST light source. Failing that, there are several Substrate options that cost WAY less obtain and paint onto than any Mfg Screen option. But hey....I can honestly state that if someone has a plain-jane ol' 120" Matte White Retractable....that will do quite nicely as well.


Really, it's all just centered around the DIY Work Ethic and a desire to have exceptional results at a Dime against a Dollar expense. Otherwise...you simply must pay to play by the Rules the Mfg lays down.


.........or the Wife.


----------



## TimHuey

A good skim coating job can fix numerous irregularities. I am not a big fan of painted wall solutions but if its incremental after laying out mega bucks for a projector and waiting a year for a fixed screen it can be a interim solution. There is a remarkable tool made for skim coating at lowes or ace hardware is where I bought mine. Still gonna take some wet sponge work to get perfectly flat. But its an amazing wall once you are done. I did my whole condo cause it looks so flat.


Edit whoops it was at sherwin William's...
It was called Magic Trowel . The larger one. Did and amazing job for a novice.


----------



## diggumsmax

I rent and my walls are cement with some sort of textured paint so smoothing out the wall and applying paint would probably not make my landlord very happy and I'm sure I would get fined quite a bit when I eventually move out. I did start a thread in the projector screen forum and would like to continue discussion there as I feel like I've contributed to highjacking this thread which is for the P1. I've read mixed results regarding paint. Not trying to claim that it isn't better, I've just read a lot of mixed opinions. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## J Bone

I would be interested in seeing these results using a UST projector. Ideally a side-by-side comparison of the same image with a CLR screen and this paint compound on MDF. Don’t know if you have the resources or the time but if so please post them on the new screen discussion that was just opened. Unless it’s done using the Optoma P1 of course...


----------



## klas

The wall has to be 100% flat for any UST otherwise you will see wavy lines when image pans horizontally so any screen would be better then wall and paint.


----------



## Gae80uk

@solal- great review thanks! Can't wait for it to be released in Europe...looks amazing, imagine with pumped up EU specs!


----------



## solal-

Gae80uk said:


> @*solal-* great review thanks! Can't wait for it to be released in Europe...looks amazing, imagine with pumped up EU specs!


I still don't understand why there is a difference with the European version, that cost a lot to make two different production line, and I would like to know which components are different in the European version, maybe it's because of some regulation ?


----------



## copperfield74

Gae80uk said:


> @solal- great review thanks! Can't wait for it to be released in Europe...looks amazing, imagine with pumped up EU specs!


I don't understand why there is still no release date for Europe, especially Germany. Optoma France seems to be the only one that's moving forward by releasing a price for France. Optoma Germany is still quiet, no price no date no hope. 😥


----------



## solal-

There is certainly production problem, there was late for USA and they produce few unit (they certainly send them all once they have produce the first batch rather than waiting to have more as they're was late), so this certainly impact the European release too.


----------



## bix26

solal- said:


> I still don't understand why there is a difference with the European version, that cost a lot to make two different production line, and I would like to know which components are different in the European version, maybe it's because of some regulation ?




Is there a confirmed physical/hardware difference? I’m thinking it might just be that Europe could have different standards for measuring brightness/contrast?
@Tuan where are you? We need you!










P.S. does Tapatalk not support GIF’s anymore?


----------



## Tuan

solal- said:


> There is certainly production problem, there was late for USA and they produce few unit (they certainly send them all once they have produce the first batch rather than waiting to have more as they're was late), so this certainly impact the European release too.


There was no production problem. We were just verifying firmware and awaiting certifications. 



bix26 said:


> solal- said:
> 
> 
> 
> I still don't understand why there is a difference with the European version, that cost a lot to make two different production line, and I would like to know which components are different in the European version, maybe it's because of some regulation ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a confirmed physical/hardware difference? Iâ€™️m thinking it might just be that Europe could have different standards for measuring brightness/contrast?
> @Tuan where are you? We need you!
Click to expand...

I have no idea what the difference for EMEA is, I only know what I work on for the US. However, I believe EMEA prices typically include VAT, which US does not.


----------



## Detective2019!

I'm from New Jersey, my projector is expected to arrive tomorrow by 8pm. It had already made it to NJ. Amazon rocks !!!!!


----------



## Gae80uk

@solal- I agree, it's a bit chaotic releasing the same projector with enhanced features at same price in €..and later in time. I hope it won't turn into another battle to get few units across EU too


----------



## Kdub69

Detective2019! said:


> I'm from New Jersey, my projector is expected to arrive tomorrow by 8pm. It had already made it to NJ. Amazon rocks !!!!!




Did you order from amazon.com or .ca just wondering if any .ca have been shipped??


----------



## Detective2019!

I ordered from Amazon.com. it's being delivered by UPS today, 10-7-19. I'll do an unboxing when I get out of work.


----------



## solal-

bix26 said:


> Is there a confirmed physical/hardware difference? I’m thinking it might just be that Europe could have different standards for measuring brightness/contrast?
> @*Tuan* where are you? We need you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. does Tapatalk not support GIF’s anymore?



Optoma France said ( https://twitter.com/OptomaFrance/status/1174956514634686464 ) :

"UHZ65UST and P1 are not the same products : contrast, lumens, are for exemple differents (3500 lumens, and 2 500 000:1 contrast ratio)



But I also doubt about this.


----------



## kraine

The Optoma UHZ65UST (P1) is at home, review will follow this week :


https://www.passionhomecinema.fr/bl...usivite-phc-fr-reception-de-loptoma-uhz65ust/


----------



## solal-

solal- said:


> Optoma France said ( https://twitter.com/OptomaFrance/status/1174956514634686464 ) :
> 
> "UHZ65UST and P1 are not the same products : contrast, lumens, are for exemple differents (3500 lumens, and 2 500 000:1 contrast ratio)
> 
> 
> 
> But I also doubt about this.



Also, it seems there is no 'shop' on the optoma '.com' website, on the french website we can order directly to optoma, may be it will be the best things to do when the projector will be released so we will not have to wait than third party receive it.


----------



## Knolly

Has anyone received their P1 that also has a Logitech Harmony? Any chance to confirm that the remote in IR mode can program a Harmony Hub?


----------



## J Bone

Knolly said:


> Has anyone received their P1 that also has a Logitech Harmony? Any chance to confirm that the remote in IR mode can program a Harmony Hub?


I am curious about this too. I know it might be a bit before Logitech adds it to its compatibility list. From what I understand it previous in our discussion is that you can deactivate the Bluetooth remote functionality to use IR. But this means you have to place the P1 in eco mode. I'm sure this will alter the Lumen output and other capabilities. Has anyone been able to link their Harmony Hub to more than one Bluetooth device? Along with the P1 once set up I also have an Nvidia Shield I was hoping to still use which is operated by bluetooth as well. So just unsure if it can link and operate both the P1 and another Bluetooth device like on Nvidia Shield or even PS4 at the same time.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Nihar P

Anyone aware whether this is going to be available anytime anywhere in Asia? Can we expect any price difference (drop) if bought, or have it shipped from somewhere like from China/Taiwan/Singapore/Malaysia?


----------



## Gae80uk

It's available in HK here: http://www.hivihk.com/ for 33000 HK $ I think


----------



## ProjectionHead

Detective2019! said:


> Hello my friends, my name is Saul. I ordered my optoma P1 on Amazon and I already left a review on the site. I just received an email from Amazon that I'll have my projector by tomorrow 8pm. I also have a tracking number. I preordered mines Sep 8th.


So you left a review before you got the projector?


----------



## ProjectionHead

Here are some pics of what's in the box. Optoma is including a distance guide that you can attach to the projector to detail spacing from screen required for size of screen desired.


----------



## Gae80uk

@ProjectionHead very smart little tool! Go crazy with a full detailed review...ppl are hungry here!


----------



## Knolly

J Bone said:


> I am curious about this too. I know it might be a bit before Logitech adds it to its compatibility list. From what I understand it previous in our discussion is that you can deactivate the Bluetooth remote functionality to use IR. But this means you have to place the P1 in eco mode. I'm sure this will alter the Lumen output and other capabilities. Has anyone been able to link their Harmony Hub to more than one Bluetooth device? Along with the P1 once set up I also have an Nvidia Shield I was hoping to still use which is operated by bluetooth as well. So just unsure if it can link and operate both the P1 and another Bluetooth device like on Nvidia Shield or even PS4 at the same time.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I received confirmation that the P1 can receive IR signals regardless of mode so no issues here.


----------



## newtodirecttv

gae80uk said:


> @projectionhead very smart little tool! Go crazy with a full detailed review...ppl are hungry here! :d


agreed!!!


----------



## chinmokutak

my retailor, eastporter told me they should be getting shipment today, and will keep me posted.
Now all I do is hit refresh on my email...


----------



## ProjectionHead

Gae80uk said:


> @ProjectionHead very smart little tool! Go crazy with a full detailed review...ppl are hungry here!


I wish I had time.... Anyone want to come to NJ and check it out in person next to the Hisense unit and write some reviews?


----------



## smajumdar

I just plugged in the projector.couple of questions: 
1. Using an alr screen with 0.8 gain with mild ambient light. Image doesnt look as bright as i was expecting it to be. Can anyone share what settings are you using to get the best output from the projector. 
2. Had some difficulty with adjusting the screen. Wht the height of ur table and screen height? I have a 100” screen. 

Really appreciate the inputs.


----------



## diggumsmax

smajumdar said:


> I just plugged in the projector.couple of questions:
> 
> 1. Using an alr screen with 0.8 gain with mild ambient light. Image doesnt look as bright as i was expecting it to be. Can anyone share what settings are you using to get the best output from the projector.
> 
> 2. Had some difficulty with adjusting the screen. Wht the height of ur table and screen height? I have a 100” screen.
> 
> 
> 
> Really appreciate the inputs.


Screen height times .24. I believe for 100-in screen it's 11 and 1/2 in from the surface the projector is sitting on to the bottom of the image. The adjustable feet give you about 1 in of wiggle room

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Kdub69

diggumsmax said:


> smajumdar said:
> 
> 
> 
> I just plugged in the projector.couple of questions:
> 
> 1. Using an alr screen with 0.8 gain with mild ambient light. Image doesnt look as bright as i was expecting it to be. Can anyone share what settings are you using to get the best output from the projector.
> 
> 2. Had some difficulty with adjusting the screen. Wht the height of ur table and screen height? I have a 100â€ screen.
> 
> 
> 
> Really appreciate the inputs.
> 
> 
> 
> Screen width times .24. I believe for 100-in screen it's 11 and 1/2 in from the surface the projector is sitting on to the bottom of the screen. The adjustable feet give you about 1 in of wiggle room
> 
> 
> I can help you soon should be getting the p1 in a few days. Quick question for you what alr screen so you gave and where did you buy it from I have a 100 inch screen coming also I think we might have the same screen
Click to expand...


----------



## g4s

smajumdar said:


> I just plugged in the projector.couple of questions:
> 1. Using an alr screen with 0.8 gain with mild ambient light. Image doesnt look as bright as i was expecting it to be. Can anyone share what settings are you using to get the best output from the projector.
> 2. Had some difficulty with adjusting the screen. Wht the height of ur table and screen height? I have a 100” screen.
> 
> Really appreciate the inputs.


Just Curious. What screen are you using?


----------



## smajumdar

Using the XY PET crystal screen.


----------



## amatching

smajumdar said:


> Using the XY PET crystal screen.


make sure your screen is not upside down


----------



## Tyler Duncan

I ordered the same screen and hoping its more than bright enough. And like Amatching said, make sure its not upside down! It rejects light from the top, so if it were to be placed upside down, you would get a very washed out, bad image.


----------



## g4s

smajumdar said:


> Using the XY PET crystal screen.


I know it sounds like a dumb comment, but make sure it's right side up. The image would be really dim if it's not.


----------



## klas

Clearly upside down


----------



## smajumdar

How do i attach an image on this forum? Have a picture to share?


----------



## smajumdar

Is smartfit app only way to align edges?


----------



## Tyler Duncan

I would recommend, long term, to fit to the screen by manually moving the projector. I believe if you have smartfit on, there were some levels of the projector that are disabled. It's going to be tedius but worth it in the end.


----------



## Brajesh

ProjectionHead said:


> I wish I had time.... Anyone want to come to NJ and check it out in person next to the Hisense unit and write some reviews?


Yes! Had PM'd you before to sign up when you first offered weeks ago.


----------



## chinmokutak

Just thought I would share. Picked up the unit today and you can definitely hear the high pitch noise. I don't think it's the fa. I don't know where it's coming from


----------



## ProjectionHead

Brajesh said:


> Yes! Had PM'd you before to sign up when you first offered weeks ago.


We just got the production unit to put in there; the invite is still open! Hit me up via PM or email and let me know when you want to come on over


----------



## smajumdar

I apologize for posting again. Even brightness and contrast controls are disabled? Not sure wht’s going on.


----------



## Guitarick

*Optoma P1 and XY Pet Screen*

Hi there all,
Just found this forum and a great time for it. I should receive my P1 in the next few days and I'm having a screen problem. I had decided on a 120" Elunevision Aurora UST screen, but there are two problems. The first is that delivery seems to be weeks away (some kind of delivery issue) and the second is the price...holy crow it's expensive! So with that I was investigating other screens and saw the XY Pet screen come up a few times and it appears a few of you own it. So...I guess my question is how is the screen? Quality, value for money, and most importantly the image itself? I know the P1 is just trickling out, but any info on XY screens would be very much appreciated.


Thanks!


----------



## PJPanda

ProjectionHead said:


> I wish I had time.... Anyone want to come to NJ and check it out in person next to the Hisense unit and write some reviews?



I'm in Central Jersey. Would be willing to drive up and check them out.


----------



## newtodirecttv

smajumdar said:


> Using the XY PET crystal screen.


Can I ask how much your screen was with shipping from China to the US?


----------



## Kdub69

chinmokutak said:


> Just thought I would share. Picked up the unit today and you can definitely hear the high pitch noise. I don't think it's the fa. I don't know where it's coming from




Can you post a video of this I hope its just a defective unit and not all the optoma p1’s hopefully they are not paying $200 / review to buy good reviews hopefully my p1 comes in good shape


----------



## Detective2019!

Check out my unboxing ....

Watch "Optoma CinemaX P1 Smart 4K UHD Laser Cinema Unboxing Part 1" on YouTube

https://youtu.be/xeMRKuz4dDw


----------



## imhotep6

Detective2019! said:


> Check out my unboxing ....
> 
> 
> 
> Watch "Optoma CinemaX P1 Smart 4K UHD Laser Cinema Unboxing Part 1" on YouTube
> 
> 
> 
> https://youtu.be/xeMRKuz4dDw




Can’t wait for the 2nd video


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## newtodirecttv

imhotep6 said:


> Can’t wait for the 2nd video
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Looking forward to your initial thoughts on the unit!


----------



## Kdub69

Detective2019! said:


> Check out my unboxing ....
> 
> Watch "Optoma CinemaX P1 Smart 4K UHD Laser Cinema Unboxing Part 1" on YouTube
> 
> https://youtu.be/xeMRKuz4dDw



Awesome keep posting video 2!!


----------



## newtodirecttv

Guitarick said:


> Hi there all,
> Just found this forum and a great time for it. I should receive my P1 in the next few days and I'm having a screen problem. I had decided on a 120" Elunevision Aurora UST screen, but there are two problems. The first is that delivery seems to be weeks away (some kind of delivery issue) and the second is the price...holy crow it's expensive! So with that I was investigating other screens and saw the XY Pet screen come up a few times and it appears a few of you own it. So...I guess my question is how is the screen? Quality, value for money, and most importantly the image itself? I know the P1 is just trickling out, but any info on XY screens would be very much appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks!


I would like more information as well on the XY screen.


----------



## klas

> Just thought I would share. Picked up the unit today and you can definitely hear the high pitch noise. I don't think it's the fa. I don't know where it's coming from


Can you try if silent mode disables it?


----------



## smajumdar

I like the xy screen. They mislabeld the stickers that shows which side is down. I had invert the screen and now it looks awesome. My only worry is tht the projector is at 15” away instead of 10” for a 100” screen. Is it because of the height. It sitting at a height of about 16” and the bottom of the screen is at about 36” from the floor.


----------



## Detective2019!

Part 2 

Watch "Optoma CinemaX P1 Smart 4K UHD Laser Cinema Part 2" on YouTube

https://youtu.be/DBm6Hjd2UjQ


----------



## J Bone

smajumdar said:


> I like the xy screen. They mislabeld the stickers that shows which side is down. I had invert the screen and now it looks awesome. My only worry is tht the projector is at 15” away instead of 10” for a 100” screen. Is it because of the height. It sitting at a height of about 16” and the bottom of the screen is at about 36” from the floor.




Any updated images under same lighting conditions now that you’ve corrected it? First impressions and thoughts?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## g4s

Detective2019! said:


> Part 2
> 
> Watch "Optoma CinemaX P1 Smart 4K UHD Laser Cinema Part 2" on YouTube
> 
> https://youtu.be/DBm6Hjd2UjQ


Looks great. I noticed you've got the P1 sitting on the floor. How high is the projected image from the floor?


----------



## smajumdar

J Bone said:


> Any updated images under same lighting conditions now that you’ve corrected it? First impressions and thoughts?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



Here are images on XY screen.


----------



## saneace

amatching said:


> make sure your screen is not upside down


I am in no way qualified to answer questions about screen tech, but common sense tells me that something isn't right if the image quality on the portion of picture projected just onto the wall looks better than what I see on the screen. Indeed, the color vibrancy you seem to be getting just off the wall has me feeling good about deciding to postpone any decision on buying a screen for the projector until I have first put hands and on it and tested it out on a bare wall.


----------



## klas

saneace said:


> amatching said:
> 
> 
> 
> make sure your screen is not upside down
> 
> 
> 
> I am in no way qualified to answer questions about screen tech, but common sense tells me that something isn't right if the image quality on the portion of picture projected just onto the wall looks better than what I see on the screen. Indeed, the color vibrancy you seem to be getting just off the wall has me feeling good about deciding to postpone any decision on buying a screen for the projector until I have first put hands and on it and tested it out on a bare wall.
Click to expand...

He just posted the example of "holding it wrong"


----------



## kraine

This projector is very strong on 4K HDR source


----------



## saneace

klas said:


> He just posted the example of "holding it wrong"


I hadn't got there yet, but assumed it was the case (no other explanation made any sense). Instead, the take-away (for my part) is that picture vibrancy projected onto what is (presumably) an un-doctored wall looks promising. Mine will be here tomorrow, so will know soon enough what the score is.


----------



## klas

Detective2019! said:


> Part 2
> 
> Watch "Optoma CinemaX P1 Smart 4K UHD Laser Cinema Part 2" on YouTube
> 
> https://youtu.be/DBm6Hjd2UjQ


Looks like pretty much like a Xiaomi. If you want 120" you will have to keep it at the floor level.


----------



## gurgenta

hi guys,

is there any preferred "eye level" against UST screens? is it still 1/3 like other type of screens?


----------



## diggumsmax

smajumdar said:


> I like the xy screen. They mislabeld the stickers that shows which side is down. I had invert the screen and now it looks awesome. My only worry is tht the projector is at 15” away instead of 10” for a 100” screen. Is it because of the height. It sitting at a height of about 16” and the bottom of the screen is at about 36” from the floor.


This worries me a bit. I know there was something if the manual for the P1 about the offset being slightly different between units due to the optics used but that is way off from what they have been advertising. Based of the throw ratio the bottom of the image should be around 12 inches from the floor. Add to the fact that you had to put the projector 5 more inches from the wall doesn't help either. Based of this, 120 should be roughly 15 inches.









Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## chakrapani siruvuri

For the guys who received the projector, do you guys hear the fan noise while playing 4K content?


----------



## newtodirecttv

I need some help with this as I was just about to order the Optima P1. My console is 18"H and I was going to project onto a 120" screen. Will I have to set the unit on the floor or push the console pretty far back from the screen to make it work?


----------



## bix26

newtodirecttv said:


> I need some help with this as I was just about to order the Optima P1. My console is 18"H and I was going to project onto a 120" screen. Will I have to set the unit on the floor or push the console pretty far back from the screen to make it work?




How tall are your ceilings?


----------



## newtodirecttv

bix26 said:


> How tall are your ceilings?


8 ft


----------



## bix26

newtodirecttv said:


> 8 ft




According to projector central you’ll have the top of your projector no more than 11” of the ground. Of course you’ll likely want to give yourself a few extra inches of leeway.











https://www.projectorcentral.com/Optoma-P1-projection-calculator-pro.htm


----------



## newtodirecttv

So based on that info I should probably look for a shorter console or just use the 18” high console and plan on moving it back 11 - 13”?


----------



## newtodirecttv

Wonder if I will need something like this? Will look kind of strange though with nothing on the sides...what are others planning on doing if purchasing this unit?


----------



## g4s

newtodirecttv said:


> Wonder if I will need something like this? Will look kind of strange though with nothing on the sides...what are others planning on doing if purchasing this unit?


I made a 4" tall stand for the P1 and my center channel speaker based on some early offset numbers (14.5" for 120" screen). That's going to be too high for me. I think it's going to be on the floor. Looks like the offset will be 20" or more. I'd like the bottom of the screen to be around 18" from the floor.
I've got a few friends with TV's above their fireplace mantle. What a pain in the neck. I want to keep it as low as I can.
I guess I could recess it into the floor?.....Just kiddin'


----------



## newtodirecttv

g4s said:


> I made a 4" tall stand for the P1 and my center channel speaker based on some early offset numbers (14.5" for 120" screen). That's going to be too high for me. I think it's going to be on the floor. Looks like the offset will be 20" or more. I'd like the bottom of the screen to be around 18" from the floor.
> I've got a few friends with TV's above their fireplace mantle. What a pain in the neck. I want to keep it as low as I can.
> I guess I could recess it into the floor?.....Just kiddin'


Got a pic of your stand? I found a TV console that is 11"H so that might work. Also, sorry but I am newbie to this...when you say "offset will be 20" or more" what do you mean exactly? Is that 20" from the wall where the screen will be hanging?


----------



## g4s

newtodirecttv said:


> Got a pic of your stand? I found a TV console that is 11"H so that might work. Also, sorry but I am newbie to this...when you say "offset will be 20" or more" what do you mean exactly? Is that 20" from the wall where the screen will be hanging?


I'm using offset to describe the vertical distance from the top of the projector stand to the bottom of the projected image. 
There's a picture of the stand in post 799 of this thread. This link should be close to it https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...rp/3041368-optoma-p1-4k-laser-ust-ces-27.html


----------



## Knolly

diggumsmax said:


> This worries me a bit. I know there was something if the manual for the P1 about the offset being slightly different between units due to the optics used but that is way off from what they have been advertising. Based of the throw ratio the bottom of the image should be around 12 inches from the floor. Add to the fact that you had to put the projector 5 more inches from the wall doesn't help either. Based of this, 120 should be roughly 15 inches.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


I'm not so sure that chart is still valid as it is definitely different from the P1 installation manual's measurements:


----------



## newtodirecttv

Ok, so looking at the chart above for the 120" I need to make sure the back of the projector is 14" from the wall and bottom of the screen to bottom of the projector will be right at 17". That correct?


----------



## newtodirecttv

newtodirecttv said:


> Ok, so looking at the chart above for the 120" I need to make sure the back of the projector is 14" from the wall and bottom of the screen to bottom of the projector will be right at 17". That correct?


That is 17" at an angle from the bottom of the projector to the bottom of the projected image so the console with the projector can be closer to the wall than I am probably estimating? Sorry for so many questions...wife said I have to get this right before I order anything! 😉


----------



## ErinLu

More detailed information in P1 UM page 55


----------



## newtodirecttv

ErinLu said:


> More detailed information in P1 UM page 55


Very helpful! Ok, it appears from the lens it needs to be 17" from the bottom of the screen. So that would be closer then to the wall then I was estimating.


----------



## tambur123

According to Gregory comments on PHC it looks that the native contrast is a little bit lower than on Epson L500 and also the response time is about 120ms (6 timea worse).


----------



## MiguePizar

From the videos that I have seen so far, I don't see much of a difference between my old ust xiaomi and the optoma p1. I recently bought an ALR screen from vividstorm and it looks just like the videos and pictures of the optoma p1, so I'll wait until someone really do a comparison between the xiaomi vs optoma p1 and other projectors.


----------



## Kev1000000

tambur123 said:


> According to Gregory comments on PHC it looks that the native contrast is a little bit lower than on Epson L500 and also the response time is about 120ms (6 timea worse).


Input lag is 120ms even with everything disabled? That's a no go for me


----------



## bennutt

Kev1000000 said:


> Input lag is 120ms even with everything disabled? That's a no go for me




It was 55ms with everything disabled when I was looking into it last week. That’s the claimed response time from Optoma anyway.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MDesigns

newtodirecttv said:


> Very helpful! Ok, it appears from the lens it needs to be 17" from the bottom of the screen. So that would be closer then to the wall then I was estimating.


No, the measurements are not from the lens. It is 14" from the back(side facing the screen) to the screen. Also not in angle, but perpendicular to the wall.

And 17" up from the bottom of the projector(stand) to the bottom of the screen. Also there seems to be quite big tolerance with this measurement. It can be -2" to +4" between projectors with 120" size. So test your unit before mounting the screen.

Check the picture.

Lähetetty minun MRD-LX1 laitteesta Tapatalkilla


----------



## tambur123

Kev1000000 said:


> Input lag is 120ms even with everything disabled? That's a no go for me


It appears so, but Optoma claims that a firmware update will fix this. Also, I forgot to mention, that the model tested is the uhz65ust which is advertised at a higher contrast than the p1. Google translate PHC comments for optoma unboxing, Gregory gives better explanations than I do


----------



## diggumsmax

ErinLu said:


> More detailed information in P1 UM page 55


So the offset can vary by three inches to four inches depending on the projector? 

Edit: answered already. Do other UST projectors have this issue? Maybe I missed that part but I didn't remember hearing anything about the LG or xiamio having this issue

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## tambur123

The review is up on PHC


----------



## kraine

The first online test of the Optoma UHZ65UST is now available in French and English here :


https://www.passionhomecinema.fr/blog/index.php/08/10/2019/test-optoma-uhz65ust-lavis-de-gregory/




Very good reading.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

gurgenta said:


> hi guys,
> 
> is there any preferred "eye level" against UST screens? is it still 1/3 like other type of screens?


Yes this is preferred, hence people having to put them on the floor or around 3 inches for the best view. Your neck and eyes will thank you.


----------



## saneace

Pictured is result after doing no more than: (1) plugging it in; (2) sitting it on a table that is not appropriate to use with it; (3) getting it online; (4) letting it update; and (4) throwing some media against a random wall in my basement that has not been conditioned at all for this type of use. I did light control the room, but aside from that, this is about as rough as it gets for a test, and it still looks promising.


----------



## golcarfel

Casey_Bryson said:


> Yes this is preferred, hence people having to put them on the floor or around 3 inches for the best view. Your neck and eyes will thank you.


Sorry. Can you clarify the "1/3 rule". Is that 1/3 from the top or 1/3 from the bottom should be eye level.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

golcarfel said:


> Sorry. Can you clarify the "1/3 rule". Is that 1/3 from the top or 1/3 from the bottom should be eye level.


From the bottom...see pic. I'd aim for the lower range in the main area, if you've got a clear view, since most like to kick back and lounge while watching.


----------



## diggumsmax

smajumdar said:


> I like the xy screen. They mislabeld the stickers that shows which side is down. I had invert the screen and now it looks awesome. My only worry is that the projector is at 15” away instead of 10” for a 100” screen. Is it because of the height. It sitting at a height of about 16” and the bottom of the screen is at about 36” from the floor.


Is there anyway you can measure this. From the research I have done it is not supposed to be this much. Both the distance from the wall and were picture is based off those measurements is way off from Optoma has in there manual. Based off my research, it was supposed to be around 12"'s although that appears to be from an outdated spec sheet. 15 inches away from the wall instead of 10 inches is big difference. Even bigger is that the bottom of the image is 20"s from where the projector is sitting for a 100" screen going by the specs in a previous post. Below is from a screenshot from the manual someone posted earlier today. It appears that this will vary between units but I don't even think I can do a 100"s without having to buy a new TV stand/credenza. I'm not putting something this expensive on the floor and it's starting to seem like that is the best place for it.... Based off the screenshots you posted though it does seem close to 20 inches from the stand the PJ is sitting on to the bottom of the screen.

100"
13.7795 to 17.9528 inches from projector is sitting on to bottom of image

120"
16 to 20.9055 inches from surface projector is sitting on to bottom of image


----------



## g4s

diggumsmax said:


> Is there anyway you can measure this. From the research I have done it is not supposed to be this much. Both the distance from the wall and were picture is based off those measurements is way off from Optoma has in there manual. Based off my research, it was supposed to be around 12"'s although that appears to be from an outdated spec sheet. 15 inches away from the wall instead of 10 inches is big difference. Even bigger is that the bottom of the image is 20"s from where the projector is sitting for a 100" screen going by the specs in a previous post. Below is from a screenshot from the manual someone posted earlier today. It appears that this will vary between units but I don't even think I can do a 100"s without having to buy a new TV stand/credenza. I'm not putting something this expensive on the floor and it's starting to seem like that is the best place for it.... Based off the screenshots you posted though it does seem close to 20 inches from the stand the PJ is sitting on to the bottom of the screen.
> 
> 100"
> 13.7795 to 17.9528 inches from projector is sitting on to bottom of image
> 
> 120"
> 16 to 20.9055 inches from surface projector is sitting on to bottom of image


I've got mine up and running. The screens not up yet, but on the wall 120" diagonal the image is 19.5" off the floor. Don't like the projector on the floor, but really don't want to raise it.


----------



## diggumsmax

Thanks for the feedback. It looks like it's going to be 16 inches or more for 100. Hopefully I get one on the lower end but I'm not expecting to. My current screen is 14.5 and 110 so that's not going to work. I am really glad I held off on getting an ALR screen though as I initially thought this was going to be lower. 

I'm already thinking about doing a DIY cabinet. They make some for UST projectors cabinets but they are ridiculously overpriced and cost more than the P1. It looks like you just need some fans for ventilation. I do wonder what type of glass they use to not interfere with the image though. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Koeikan

diggumsmax said:


> I do wonder what type of glass they use to not interfere with the image though.


Not sure, but I was thinking about going DIY as well (assuming I can't retrofit my current stand) and was thinking that a cutout in the back would probably be the easiest route vs. using glass. Even if you get the 'right' kind of glass, I'd imagine you'd have to keep both sides of the glass fairly dust free.


----------



## diggumsmax

Koeikan said:


> lassuming I can't retrofit my current stand) and was thinking that a cutout in the back would probably be the easiest route vs. using glass. Even if you get the 'right' kind of glass, I'd imagine you'd have to keep both sides of the glass fairly dust free.


I may be able to retrofit my current cabinet but I won't know until I get it tomorrow. I had not thought of this. Thanks. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## klas

kraine said:


> The first online test of the Optoma UHZ65UST is now available in French and English here :
> 
> 
> https://www.passionhomecinema.fr/blog/index.php/08/10/2019/test-optoma-uhz65ust-lavis-de-gregory/
> 
> 
> Very good reading.


Thanks. Looks like it's not all peaches going from Xiaomi which has done a marvelous job with its first UST. Decided to hold off getting P1.


----------



## chinmokutak

I got the unit last night and started playing around on my regular pull up screen
Here are the pros and cons of this unit that I’m seeing so far… Take it with a grain of salt as all of these are based on my personal “feeling”.

*Pro:*

Brightness: Extremely bright in a pitch-black environment. So if you have a very controlled environment, you may not need ALR screens.
Sound: I have not connected my speakers, so I watched a couple of movies using P1’s sound. My god, it sounds great. Of course, this is a useless feature for most of us here as I would assume anyone on this forum has a legit sound system.

*Cons:*


Extremely unforgiving uneven screens: I didn’t realize how uneven surface my pull up screen was, and how forgiving regular ST projectors were until I started playing with P1. Any uneven surface, it will be exponentially visible. Making videos extremely distorting. I know a lot of people mentioned this issue, but I didn’t realize how bad it would be until I got the unit.
Height: I have my 100-inch screen 2ft-3ft above the ground, and I had to leave P1 on the ground, so I would either have to keep P1 on the ground or I would have to make the screen much higher if I want to put it on a media center.
Fan Noise: It’s hard to hear from the video, but you can hear the fan picking up when you put it on game mode. I’m sure you won’t notice it when you have a sound coming out. But I did notice when there was no sound.
Input Lag: I could notice a slight audio lag. This wouldn’t be great for games. Thankfully I don’t play that many games, and for those who play very casual games, it should be fine
Lack of 4-way-Adjustment via foot:This was a big one for me. P1, by design only allows you to be able to tilt one way via adjusting one side of the foot. For me, because the pull-up screen was slightly tilted toward me, I needed to go the other way. Due to the nature of UST (I think), slight imperfection whether it’s slight tilt on-screen or small wave on screen, it makes it 100x more visible compared to ST or regular throw projector. Now, if are confident that your screen is perfectly flat with no wave, this may not an issue for you.


(video: 



).


----------



## saneace

I assume it is not controversial to observe it is a no good very bad thing to put a unit like this directly on the floor. That is home base for dust, which to some extent is unavoidable no matter where it goes, but the floor is the equivalent of a welcome mat. I don't think it is a stretch to estimate that about half of the calls that I get requesting that I perform some computer CPR lead to a finding that the tower was kept on the floor, and in turn to the discovery that everything in the case is covered with a thick layer of dust, which means the fans, if they are working at all, are chugging along like they have spent a couple years in a bingo hall chain smoking Pal Mal Ulfiltered. An air cooled projector is no different. Filtered or not, if the unit is sitting directly on the floor slurping dust, then in short order, the aforementioned dust film will set up shop, fan efficacy will suffer, and heat will rise. If it is absolutely essential that you get as close to the floor as possible, perhaps consider something like this little $25 stand. At first glance the measurements seem to check out, but only using it as an example, not recommending it as such. For someone who has the tools / time, it would be easy to put something like that together yourself or to install a low slung shelf. Recognize that may not be an option for everyone, but I do want to strongly caution against sitting it on a bare floor. Captain Obvious, signing off.


----------



## asd210111

Can somebody have the projector test the input lag please. Thats my only concern, i saw on the french review the input lat is more than 100ms where in its discription its 55ms from Optoma. If the input lag is over 100 then i will keep my optoma gt 5600 which have much less input lag for my gaming perspective.


----------



## Kdub69

asd210111 said:


> Can somebody have the projector test the input lag please. Thats my only concern, i saw on the french review the input lat is more than 100ms where in its discription its 55ms from Optoma. If the input lag is over 100 then i will keep my optoma gt 5600 which have much less input lag for my gaming perspective.





This is strange because I have talked to optoma rep and they say when the motion and app is off then its 55ms but when those features are on it can be 100ms not sure who to believe If someone can test that, that would be awesome


----------



## kraine

My input lag measure (123 ms) was taken without FI and in all Factory modes (of course also Game Mode).


----------



## g4s

I've got my 120" screen setup without using any geometry correction. Looks great. I cut my stand down to about 2 1/2" I'll take a picture after I get my wire mess taken care of. Anyone interested in measurements let me know. Although we know these can be different from the next example. This thing is super silent too.


----------



## DunMunro

kraine said:


> My input lag measure (123 ms) was taken without FI and in all Factory modes (of course also Game Mode).


There is supposed to be a new firmware update that will reduce lag to ~55ms.


----------



## kraine

It's possible but here's what Optoma France told me : A new firmware arrives at the end of October but it will correct the following points:

- HLG compatibility via HDMI
- Colorimetry problem on the SDR when Dynamic Black (1/2/3) is enabled

No mention is made of an improvement in the input lag


----------



## bix26

kraine said:


> My input lag measure (123 ms) was taken without FI and in all Factory modes (of course also Game Mode).




Did you try it not in “Game” mode? Maybe Game mode is intended to be sports mode where FI is forced even if unselected. Probably not I know, just figured it would be worth a try.


----------



## Kdub69

DunMunro said:


> kraine said:
> 
> 
> 
> My input lag measure (123 ms) was taken without FI and in all Factory modes (of course also Game Mode).
> 
> 
> 
> There is supposed to be a new firmware update that will reduce lag to ~55ms.
Click to expand...


Is this firm update just speculation or do we have confirmation? I’m hoping its 55ms fingers crossed


----------



## Ilya Peltsverger

*measurements for 120'' screen*



g4s said:


> I've got my 120" screen setup without using any geometry correction. Looks great. I cut my stand down to about 2 1/2" I'll take a picture after I get my wire mess taken care of. Anyone interested in measurements let me know. Although we know these can be different from the next example. This thing is super silent too.


This will be extremely helpful!


----------



## Tyler Duncan

I have just finished getting the screen and projector set up. I haven't built a stand yet for the projector, so its still a not centered properly and the image hangs off the screen a bit. Using the XY PET crystal screen with slim bezel, it has 0 waviness to it that I can see and I'm happy about that. The projector is plenty loud, but I have a Klipsch premier setup I will be hooking up shortly.

First out of the box impression:

I turned the projector on, turned on Apple TV and the menu was nice and bright. Everything was crisp and honestly I feel great about it. Then, I turned on Interstellar and the picture was... less than stellar. The brights were bright and the darks were dark, but the middle colors, like faces and things in the shadows, were way too dark; it felt like I was trying watch a movie through dirty water. After some adjustment, brightness -2, contrast +11 or so, Power brightness to 100%, and turned off HDR, the picture has me at about 85% happy. I think my issue is that coming from a Samsung QLED that was on top brightness since I bought it, I'm used to being able to see every little detail in the shaded areas, while the projector has more of a darker feel to everything. This is still after only 10 minutes of adjusting by eye. The images on the apple TV that consume the whole screen when you "highlight" a movie, look stunning, so I know the projector has the capability, I think it just needs tweaking. 

Here's some images of set-up and I'll have a Youtube video up whenever I finish centering the image and hooking up the sound system. (Screen assembly, On wall without projector, Projector at Optoma Menu, Screenshot from Blade Runner 2049)


----------



## Kev1000000

So I just got everything setup and here are my impressions so far...

*PROS*

 Sharpness is incredibly uniform and perfect throughout the image. This projector is insanely sharp.
 Brightness is on point. It feels very close to 3k lumens.
 No banding, good motion handling, overall a nice clean image.
 Super low noise. Barely audible even at full power.
 Contrast/black levels are solid for DLP projector.

*CONS*

 Color lumens do not seem to pop much. I am still tweaking settings/gama, but the red, greens, and blues do not have the punch I was hoping for.
 Input lag with everything turned off is terrible. 100ms+ easily. You can feel the lag doing nearly anything. I really hope a FW update fixes this.
 Only the front two feet are adjustable, which really makes no sense.


I also received the projector with 60 hours on the "bulb" (laser). Not sure what that is about. I purchased new, of course.

Let me know if you have any questions.


----------



## stfidel

Kev1000000 said:


> So I just got everything setup and here are my impressions so far...
> 
> *PROS*
> 
> Sharpness is incredibly uniform and perfect throughout the image. This projector is insanely sharp.
> Brightness is on point. It feels very close to 3k lumens.
> No banding, good motion handling, overall a nice clean image.
> Super low noise. Barely audible even at full power.
> Contrast/black levels are solid for DLP projector.
> 
> *CONS*
> 
> Color lumens do not seem to pop much. I am still tweaking settings/gama, but the red, greens, and blues do not have the punch I was hoping for.
> Input lag with everything turned off is terrible. 100ms+ easily. You can feel the lag doing nearly anything. I really hope a FW update fixes this.
> Only the front two feet are adjustable, which really makes no sense.
> 
> 
> I also received the projector with 60 hours on the "bulb" (laser). Not sure what that is about. I purchased new, of course.
> 
> Let me know if you have any questions.


Sounds like a slightly better xiaomi 4k laser UST..Big question is...is this worth $1400+ more? 
Get this or the Fengmi 4k or Wemax A300? At least Fengmi 4k (with Full Android TV by nothing label) is reported to have about 32ms input lag...Decisions


----------



## diggumsmax

Has anyone been having weird issues, particularly in menu? I'm hoping this is firmware related but I'm a little bit worried it might not be. I've tried the same HDMI cable for both ports. I can try to use the one that came with the P1 buI really don't think that's the issue this is a brand new HDMI cable. The odd thing is when watching video it hasn't happened once. In one it's the Optoma menu but the other is Plex from Xbox one X. 






Wait till the end, half the screen just goes nuts






Also, how does a brand new projector ship with 58 hours already on the bulb! Just found this in the menu. I know it's supposed to last 20,000 hours plus but still it's the principle of the thing. I feel like someone messed with this thing before it got to me. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## DunMunro

Kdub69 said:


> Is this firm update just speculation or do we have confirmation? I’m hoping its 55ms fingers crossed


I saw a post on another board that stated a firmware update was coming and the spec sheets states 55ms:


https://www.projectorcentral.com/pdf/projector_spec_10926.pdf

But it's speculation for now.


----------



## g4s

diggumsmax said:


> Has anyone been having weird issues, particularly in menu? I'm hoping this is firmware related but I'm a little bit worried it might not be. I've tried the same HDMI cable for both ports. I can try to use the one that came with the P1 buI really don't think that's the issue this is a brand new HDMI cable. The odd thing is when watching video it hasn't happened once. In one it's the Optoma menu but the other is Plex from Xbox one X.
> 
> https://youtu.be/D-CmFIjtavs
> 
> Wait till the end, half the screen just goes nuts
> 
> https://youtu.be/p8IKkZU0L0c
> 
> Also, how does a brand new projector ship with 58 hours already on the bulb! Just found this in the menu. I know it's supposed to last 20,000 hours plus but still it's the principle of the thing. I feel like someone messed with this thing before it got to me.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Mine shows over 50 hours too. Maybe they run them a while before shipping?


----------



## diggumsmax

Good to know, at least this seems normal in regards to the bulb life. Still a little worried about the screen freaking out on me in the menus. Really don't want to have to ship this thing back and wait until November, at the earliest, to get a replacement. It happened on the Optoma menu page pretty so that pretty much rules out it being an HDMI cable issue. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Tuan

g4s said:


> Mine shows over 50 hours too. Maybe they run them a while before shipping?


Sorry guys, that's from the final burn-in test we conduct. Our first batch did not have the counters reset to zero. They do not count against the 20,000 (bright) / 30,000 (Eco) light source life. We will flag those units for future reference.


----------



## J Bone

Tuan said:


> Sorry guys, that's from the final burn-in test we conduct. Our first batch did not have the counters reset to zero. They do not count against the 20,000 (bright) / 30,000 (Eco) light source life. We will flag those units for future reference.




Thanks for commenting and not leaving our minds to wander. But what about the flicker he spoke about. Potential color wheel or laser defect issues?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Tuan

diggumsmax said:


> Has anyone been having weird issues, particularly in menu? I'm hoping this is firmware related but I'm a little bit worried it might not be. I've tried the same HDMI cable for both ports. I can try to use the one that came with the P1 buI really don't think that's the issue this is a brand new HDMI cable. The odd thing is when watching video it hasn't happened once. In one it's the Optoma menu but the other is Plex from Xbox one X.


Can you try a different cable? What color space is it outputting?


----------



## Kev1000000

Tuan said:


> Sorry guys, that's from the final burn-in test we conduct. Our first batch did not have the counters reset to zero. They do not count against the 20,000 (bright) / 30,000 (Eco) light source life. We will flag those units for future reference.


Can you please confirm if there is a firmware update coming to address the abysmal input lag with everything turned off? It's 120ms+.


----------



## Tuan

Kev1000000 said:


> Can you please confirm if there is a firmware update coming to address the abysmal input lag with everything turned off? It's 120ms+.


We're looking into it.


----------



## diggumsmax

Tuan said:


> Can you try a different cable? What color space is it outputting?


It happened on the menus again after removing everything but power and a network cable when half the screen started wigging out. It did happe on my Xbox in the menus on Plex. The odd thing is I haven't had one issue when actually playing anything. So far, just in menus. I'm wondering if the roughly sixty hours on the bulb is for tests done before the projector is shipped from Optoma. 

If it happens one more time I'm going to switch cables but the fact that it does it with no cables plugged in these major league it's not the cable. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Tuan

diggumsmax said:


> It happened on the menus again after removing everything but power and a network cable when half the screen started wigging out. It did happe on my Xbox in the menus on Plex. The odd thing is I haven't had one issue when actually playing anything. So far, just in menus. I'm wondering if the roughly sixty hours on the bulb is for tests done before the projector is shipped from Optoma.
> 
> If it happens one more time I'm going to switch cables but the fact that it does it with no cables plugged in these major league it's not the cable.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Have you gotten the latest OTA software update yet? Should be C11.


----------



## diggumsmax

Yup, first thing I did. It's at C11 , MCU C06.9 and DDP C13. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Kdub69

Kev1000000 said:


> Tuan said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry guys, that's from the final burn-in test we conduct. Our first batch did not have the counters reset to zero. They do not count against the 20,000 (bright) / 30,000 (Eco) light source life. We will flag those units for future reference.
> 
> 
> 
> Can you please confirm if there is a firmware update coming to address the abysmal input lag with everything turned off? It's 120ms+.
Click to expand...


Please confirm this as this was a big reason why I bought this projector over the other ones was that it said 55ms not 120+


----------



## Tuan

diggumsmax said:


> Yup, first thing I did. It's at C11 , MCU C06.9 and DDP C13.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


I'll have my PM look into it. 



Kdub69 said:


> Please confirm this as this was a big reason why I bought this projector over the other ones was that it said 55ms not 120+


Yes, we tested 55ms and looking into why people are getting higher latency. Currently, you have to disable the MEMC and SmartFit manually before enabling game mode to get 55ms.


----------



## saneace

The TV that I use in our main floor entertainment area is an aging but still quality Samsung 3D, and have found that for some flicks I actually do appreciate the 3D, so I have a media server library with a couple of my favorites in that regard reduced to h-sbs.mkv or h-sbs.mp4. Always liked that I can open those, e.g., inside native plex app or so forth, and the Samsung will recognize that it is being fed 3D content and adjust accordingly. I had planned to throw some of that material in my media vault at this projector, but after reading a bit, PJ insists on having a 3D player feed the content, which I suppose not the end of the world (have one in the TV media cabinet that the TV does not need), and it is not as if I spend much time watching 3D anyway. Still, it is kind of a bummer that the P1 is so limited in regard to 3D content source when the older Samsung is much less discerning. Perhaps that is not the end of the story as to what the projector is capable of, but figuring that out definitively would require more effort than I am prepared to invest ATM.


----------



## Kdub69

Tuan said:


> diggumsmax said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, first thing I did. It's at C11 , MCU C06.9 and DDP C13.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> I'll have my PM look into it.
> 
> 
> 
> Kdub69 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Please confirm this as this was a big reason why I bought this projector over the other ones was that it said 55ms not 120+
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes, we tested 55ms and looking into why people are getting higher latency. Currently, you have to disable the MEMC and SmartFit manually before enabling game mode to get 55ms.
Click to expand...


I will test this when my p1 arrives next Wednesday whats memc stand for?


----------



## Jungle_Octopus

Tuan said:


> I'll have my PM look into it.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, we tested 55ms and looking into why people are getting higher latency. Currently, you have to disable the MEMC and SmartFit manually before enabling game mode to get 55ms.



I have the P1 and am also getting pretty bad input lag. I went through the menus but did not see anything called MEMC can you please elaborate on that? Also I thought SmartFit was an app you used not a setting, how can you disable it?


----------



## Knolly

diggumsmax said:


> Thanks for the feedback. It looks like it's going to be 16 inches or more for 100. Hopefully I get one on the lower end but I'm not expecting to. My current screen is 14.5 and 110 so that's not going to work. I am really glad I held off on getting an ALR screen though as I initially thought this was going to be lower.
> 
> I'm already thinking about doing a DIY cabinet. They make some for UST projectors cabinets but they are ridiculously overpriced and cost more than the P1. It looks like you just need some fans for ventilation. I do wonder what type of glass they use to not interfere with the image though.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Keep us posted if we go this route! I'm thinking of doing the same thing with my A300 setup. It looks super tidy but the result is a fairly high image, I'm thinking of sinking it into the cabinet to lower it and tidy up the top:


----------



## Tyler Duncan

Diggumsmax, I am also having the flickering issue on a much lower scale, and I see the right side of my screen do the odd color banding flicker rarely, but it does happen. I have tried two different hdmi cables, in two different slots. 

In addition, I seem to be having another issue consistently. The bottom few inches of my projected image, is cut off on the left side. I'm attaching a few close up shots for reference. I thought maybe it was the Apple TV, but this is taken from the Optoma Menu. I'll try to reach out to Optoma tomorrow if I have time.


----------



## Koeikan

FYI for other Amazon orders, 9/16 pre-order just got shipping notification for Monday delivery.


----------



## diggumsmax

Tyler Duncan said:


> Diggumsmax, I am also having the flickering issue on a much lower scale, and I see the right side of my screen do the odd color banding flicker rarely, but it does happen. I have tried two different hdmi cables, in two different slots.
> 
> 
> 
> In addition, I seem to be having another issue consistently. The bottom few inches of my projected image, is cut off on the left side. I'm attaching a few close up shots for reference. I thought maybe it was the Apple TV, but this is taken from the Optoma Menu. I'll try to reach out to Optoma tomorrow if I have time.


You may have already tried but make sure it's straight or you will get that. Also make sure the feet are all the way down. , if one is higher than the other than that could cause thay. If you've checked all that it could be defective. I haven't met having any uniformity issues. I powered down my projector and switched out cables and I haven't had the issue since but I only did that about half an hour ago since too early to tell. I hope 

I'm hoping that these do t end up having a high failure rate. I understand that's the first batch so it will probably get better over time but it also appears that the bottom of the image is never on the low end. It's always on the high end. Does anyone have one that is on the low end for 100 or 120-in screen? I'm basing this off what black plastic ruler that shipped with the P1. there is always a 3-in offset over based off the lowest they say the image would be. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Tyler Duncan

A hard shutdown and unplugging for 30 seconds seems to have fixed the missing bottom left issue. I haven't noticed the color band right side flicker since as well. 

After playing with the settings a bit, I find that the best way for me to get the most brightness out of the projector, is to go to the "power brightness" setting, and cycle from the dynamic black settings, back to the 100% then back to dynamic black 1 and somehow it bugs it out and gives me a nice and bright image. Otherwise, if I get the normal dynamic black on any level, its terribly dark and borderline unwatchable. Curious if this mode I'm tricking it into is a bug, or if the settings menu is just buggy and I should be able to access this mode each on purpose.


----------



## kraine

Jungle_Octopus said:


> I have the P1 and am also getting pretty bad input lag. I went through the menus but did not see anything called MEMC can you please elaborate on that? Also I thought SmartFit was an app you used not a setting, how can you disable it?



MEMC is the Frame Interpolation or Pure motion from Optoma


----------



## kraine

Tuan said:


> Yes, we tested 55ms and looking into why people are getting higher latency. Currently, you have to disable the MEMC and SmartFit manually before enabling game mode to get 55ms.



Hi Tuan, this trick is not working with my sample UHZ65UST, I have checked all the factory Modes and all options were disabled and still getting 123 ms lag in 4K


----------



## klas

stfidel said:


> Sounds like a slightly better xiaomi 4k laser UST..Big question is...is this worth $1400+ more?
> Get this or the Fengmi 4k or Wemax A300? At least Fengmi 4k (with Full Android TV by nothing label) is reported to have about 32ms input lag...Decisions


I am in a similar boat actually cancelled preorder a few days ago. Certainly P1 has an advantage over Xiaomi or any other lower priced options with brighter and nicer image and much better support/warranty but looks like I will be giving up some other things that makes this upgrade a bit tough considering its price. Perhaps when the price will drop and some kinks get worked out on it with firmware updates i might reconsider.


----------



## diggumsmax

Just another update. Still having weird issues. HDR just quit working last night but that might be my fault. I changed the color settings in the Xbox menu from 10 bit to 12 bit. after that HDR did not work. I switched it back to 10 bit but HDR still wouldn't work. after a couple of reboots, a different cable, and a different port HDR finally started working but I'm getting odd dropouts. I'm thinking it's either the actual HDMI port itself, or it's a software issue. 

I haven't got a chance to play any games yet but is there any good tool out there to test latency? Just a personal preference but I'm not a fan of pure motion due to the soap opera effect so I'll always have that set to zero. 

Edit: I noticed that when I wasn't getting HDR the input option in the menu showed it has no signal even though video is playing. If anyone else has this issue with HDR check there. This shows the input resultion and color (HDR vs SDR). 

I might try to get in touch with Optoma today if I have time. I'm really hoping these are just software issues and not hardware related. 

Putting the issues those issues aside it's a great projector. You're definitely going to need an ALR screen though unless you have a bat cave. The biggest issue as I have white ceilings and the light bouncing off the ceiling is very brightand causes a bit of wash out at the top of the image even in a dark environment.

This is the first projector I've actually seen where I've noticed HDR. I've got a roughly 2-year-old Vizio but I've only slightly noticed the improvements with HDR on that TV set. It was really noticeable on the P1. I haven't tried outgoing yet so I'm a bit worried about the lag time but we will see. This thing definitely wasn't ready from a software standpoint. The app store is a complete joke and a waste of time. The sound bar actually sounds amazing but as most of already stated I've got i-5.1 setup so this is sort of a mute point. This truly could be a TV replacement for a non-audio buff. I personally thought it sounded as good as the Sonos sound bar but it'll need a subwoofer if you want any bass. 

The bottom of the image is higher than I would like. I understand due to the manufacturing that every projectors not going to be the same but using the ruler they sent I'm using the bottom mark of 120 for a roughly 100 inch screen and it's 13 inches from the wall. 

I think with some firmware updates this thing might end up being a great projector. I could be wrong and I could be having hardware issues but I will have to figure that out. Don't let my bad experience deter you from buying this projector as it seems like most people are not having this issue. 

I tried to set it up with Alexa but optima makes it a huge hassle. You have to create a cloud account with optima. Before that you have to register your device which should be done anyways for the warranty, but after that it keeps telling me my device isn't registered so I can't use the Alexa skill. I still need to try and set this up on my Logitech remote so I can see IR actually works. Probably going to try and set it up in Hass.io later after I get off work. 

There is quite a bit of screen flickering and weirdness when you mess around in the settings and change anything. This is somewhat understandable but it seems like it almost stops displaying the image to adjust to the new settings then comes back on. With HDMI I get a lot of screen going in and out when changing settings but a quickly goes away. The lower two screenshots, one is showing how much light gets reflected in the ceiling, this was to be expected but it's much better in person than it is in the picture. I'm using a Stewart Firehawk screen and previous posters and told me this would not be a good screen for UST. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Kev1000000

Here are some unedited photos from my 120" Optoma P1 setup so far.

If the input lag can be fixed via a FW update, this will be the UST to beat IMO.


----------



## Gae80uk

Wasn't expecting all these issues from a "premium" UST...hmmm might have to wait until Black Friday time and see what happens..


----------



## TimHuey

Has anyone taken their P1 out to 130" and looked to see at normal viewing distance how the menus look and setting screens? I wonder how much sharpness is lost when the distance isnt' quite exact and is it noticeable on video from normal viewing distances.


----------



## TimHuey

Has anyone posted what percentage of P3 color it's achieving when calibrated? HDR makes more of an impact then going from REC 709 to P3 but I'm just curious how much of P3 it's getting. Everyone seems to be very impressed by the HDR performance so far on this, when it's working correctly.


----------



## diggumsmax

Kev1000000 said:


> Here are some unedited photos from my 120" Optoma P1 setup so far.
> 
> 
> 
> If the input lag can be fixed via a FW update, this will be the UST to beat IMO.


If you don't mind me asking, what screen is that. The colors and contrast are a huge improvement over what I'm getting with my Stewart Firehawk. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Kev1000000

diggumsmax said:


> If you don't mind me asking, what screen is that. The colors and contrast are a huge improvement over what I'm getting with my Stewart Firehawk.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Viewsonic BCP 120. I've also messed with the settings a bunch. When I get home, I can post my config.


----------



## diggumsmax

Gae80uk said:


> Wasn't expecting all these issues from a "premium" UST...hmmm might have to wait until Black Friday time and see what happens..


While me and one other posters seem to be having some random issues I'm not really seeing anyone else posting about having theses same issues. Unhappy people tend to complain a lot more than people who have had no issues, including myself. 

It's also the first batch so if this continues, I'll get a replacement from Optoma. I have a feeling that both the manufacturing and software will get much better for newer batches. When you have a day one firmware update on a brand new device you know the software is going to have some issues. It truly is a great projector. I can't say how much of a difference there is with some of the other cheaper Chinese models as I've never seen them in person. Wouldn't mind seeing a comparison. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## chinmokutak

diggumsmax said:


> Just another update. Still having weird issues. HDR just quit working last night but that might be my fault. I changed the color settings in the Xbox menu from 10 bit to 12 bit. after that HDR did not work. I switched it back to 10 bit but HDR still wouldn't work. after a couple of reboots, a different cable, and a different port HDR finally started working but I'm getting odd dropouts. I'm thinking it's either the actual HDMI port itself, or it's a software issue.
> 
> I haven't got a chance to play any games yet but is there any good tool out there to test latency? Just a personal preference but I'm not a fan of pure motion due to the soap opera effect so I'll always have that set to zero.
> 
> Edit: I noticed that when I wasn't getting HDR the input option in the menu showed it has no signal even though video is playing. If anyone else has this issue with HDR check there. This shows the input resultion and color (HDR vs SDR).
> 
> I might try to get in touch with Optoma today if I have time. I'm really hoping these are just software issues and not hardware related.
> 
> Putting the issues those issues aside it's a great projector. You're definitely going to need an ALR screen though unless you have a bat cave. The biggest issue as I have white ceilings and the light bouncing off the ceiling is very brightand causes a bit of wash out at the top of the image even in a dark environment.
> 
> This is the first projector I've actually seen where I've noticed HDR. I've got a roughly 2-year-old Vizio but I've only slightly noticed the improvements with HDR on that TV set. It was really noticeable on the P1. I haven't tried outgoing yet so I'm a bit worried about the lag time but we will see. This thing definitely wasn't ready from a software standpoint. The app store is a complete joke and a waste of time. The sound bar actually sounds amazing but as most of already stated I've got i-5.1 setup so this is sort of a mute point. This truly could be a TV replacement for a non-audio buff. I personally thought it sounded as good as the Sonos sound bar but it'll need a subwoofer if you want any bass.
> 
> The bottom of the image is higher than I would like. I understand due to the manufacturing that every projectors not going to be the same but using the ruler they sent I'm using the bottom mark of 120 for a roughly 100 inch screen and it's 13 inches from the wall.
> 
> I think with some firmware updates this thing might end up being a great projector. I could be wrong and I could be having hardware issues but I will have to figure that out. Don't let my bad experience deter you from buying this projector as it seems like most people are not having this issue.
> 
> I tried to set it up with Alexa but optima makes it a huge hassle. You have to create a cloud account with optima. Before that you have to register your device which should be done anyways for the warranty, but after that it keeps telling me my device isn't registered so I can't use the Alexa skill. I still need to try and set this up on my Logitech remote so I can see IR actually works. Probably going to try and set it up in Hass.io later after I get off work.
> 
> There is quite a bit of screen flickering and weirdness when you mess around in the settings and change anything. This is somewhat understandable but it seems like it almost stops displaying the image to adjust to the new settings then comes back on. With HDMI I get a lot of screen going in and out when changing settings but a quickly goes away. The lower two screenshots, one is showing how much light gets reflected in the ceiling, this was to be expected but it's much better in person than it is in the picture. I'm using a Stewart Firehawk screen and previous posters and told me this would not be a good screen for UST.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk



Curious, how do you know if HDR is working or not?


----------



## ProjectionHead

diggumsmax said:


> If you don't mind me asking, what screen is that. The colors and contrast are a huge improvement over what I'm getting with my Stewart Firehawk.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Pardon me in case I am getting people mixed up, but I believe we spoke about how the P1 will not work with the Firehawk since it is a traditional ALR surface; hence it is not reflecting light from the UST towards the audience.

The minimum throw distance for a projector to work properly with the Firehawk would be 1.6 x the image width.


----------



## ProjectionHead

chinmokutak said:


> Curious, how do you know if HDR is working or not?


Hit the info button on your media player and it should indicate if it is using HDR or SDR.


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

kraine said:


> Hi Tuan, this trick is not working with my sample UHZ65UST, I have checked all the factory Modes and all options were disabled and still getting 123 ms lag in 4K


Hello -- Input lag testing is conducted via a scope. What method is being used to measure input lag?

We have found that the Leo Bodnar 4K UHD Lag Tester is NOT reliable. The product has been removed from their store until some issues have been resolved.


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

kraine said:


> Hi Tuan, this trick is not working with my sample UHZ65UST, I have checked all the factory Modes and all options were disabled and still getting 123 ms lag in 4K





ProjectionHead said:


> Hit the info button on your media player and it should indicate if it is using HDR or SDR.


To Verify if the projector is "decoding" an HDR Metadata stream - Go to Image Settings > Display Mode. HDR will be selected and all other options will be GRAY (this is by design). 

In addition, when there is signal sync with an HDR source, the resolution is displayed in the top left along with the word HDR. And, you can check from the "Info" tab on the Projector. Go to the OSD (menu button on the remote) - scroll left to Information > Input Source. 

Last, you can also go to the OSD (menu button on remote), Image Settings > Dynamic Range. If you can change the HDR Picture Modes - you are in HDR mode.


----------



## Kev1000000

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Hello -- Input lag testing is conducted via a scope. What method is being used to measure input lag?
> 
> We have found that the Leo Bodnar 4K UHD Lag Tester is NOT reliable. The product has been removed from their store until some issues have been resolved.


To be honest, the input lag is so bad you don't need an official testing device to know it's not hitting 55ms. It's easily 120ms+ with PureMotion + Geo correction turned off. Just hook a PC up to the projector and move your mouse to feel it.


----------



## kraine

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Hello -- Input lag testing is conducted via a scope. What method is being used to measure input lag?
> 
> We have found that the Leo Bodnar 4K UHD Lag Tester is NOT reliable. The product has been removed from their store until some issues have been resolved.




I have the two Leobnar measurement probes, 1080P and 4K, the first shows 121 ms delay and the second 123 ms.


----------



## kraine

Kev1000000 said:


> To be honest, the input lag is so bad you don't need an official testing device to know it's not hitting 55ms. It's easily 120ms+ with PureMotion + Geo correction turned off. Just hook a PC up to the projector and move your mouse to feel it.



Thank you for this confirmation.


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

chinmokutak said:


> Curious, how do you know if HDR is working or not?





diggumsmax said:


> Just another update. Still having weird issues. HDR just quit working last night but that might be my fault. I changed the color settings in the Xbox menu from 10 bit to 12 bit. after that HDR did not work. I switched it back to 10 bit but HDR still wouldn't work. after a couple of reboots, a different cable, and a different port HDR finally started working but I'm getting odd dropouts. I'm thinking it's either the actual HDMI port itself, or it's a software issue.
> 
> I haven't got a chance to play any games yet but is there any good tool out there to test latency? Just a personal preference but I'm not a fan of pure motion due to the soap opera effect so I'll always have that set to zero.
> 
> Edit: I noticed that when I wasn't getting HDR the input option in the menu showed it has no signal even though video is playing. If anyone else has this issue with HDR check there. This shows the input resultion and color (HDR vs SDR).
> 
> I might try to get in touch with Optoma today if I have time. I'm really hoping these are just software issues and not hardware related.
> 
> Putting the issues those issues aside it's a great projector. You're definitely going to need an ALR screen though unless you have a bat cave. The biggest issue as I have white ceilings and the light bouncing off the ceiling is very brightand causes a bit of wash out at the top of the image even in a dark environment.
> 
> This is the first projector I've actually seen where I've noticed HDR. I've got a roughly 2-year-old Vizio but I've only slightly noticed the improvements with HDR on that TV set. It was really noticeable on the P1. I haven't tried outgoing yet so I'm a bit worried about the lag time but we will see. This thing definitely wasn't ready from a software standpoint. The app store is a complete joke and a waste of time. The sound bar actually sounds amazing but as most of already stated I've got i-5.1 setup so this is sort of a mute point. This truly could be a TV replacement for a non-audio buff. I personally thought it sounded as good as the Sonos sound bar but it'll need a subwoofer if you want any bass.
> 
> The bottom of the image is higher than I would like. I understand due to the manufacturing that every projectors not going to be the same but using the ruler they sent I'm using the bottom mark of 120 for a roughly 100 inch screen and it's 13 inches from the wall.
> 
> I think with some firmware updates this thing might end up being a great projector. I could be wrong and I could be having hardware issues but I will have to figure that out. Don't let my bad experience deter you from buying this projector as it seems like most people are not having this issue.
> 
> I tried to set it up with Alexa but optima makes it a huge hassle. You have to create a cloud account with optima. Before that you have to register your device which should be done anyways for the warranty, but after that it keeps telling me my device isn't registered so I can't use the Alexa skill. I still need to try and set this up on my Logitech remote so I can see IR actually works. Probably going to try and set it up in Hass.io later after I get off work.
> 
> There is quite a bit of screen flickering and weirdness when you mess around in the settings and change anything. This is somewhat understandable but it seems like it almost stops displaying the image to adjust to the new settings then comes back on. With HDMI I get a lot of screen going in and out when changing settings but a quickly goes away. The lower two screenshots, one is showing how much light gets reflected in the ceiling, this was to be expected but it's much better in person than it is in the picture. I'm using a Stewart Firehawk screen and previous posters and told me this would not be a good screen for UST.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk



OK -- a lot going on in this thread.

1. Please set the Xbox to 10-bit and also set the color space to recommended -- then check "4K Details". All items should be green except for 50Hz. 

2. HDR Content: Source and content, please? From the (cause I have these movies) 4K UHD HDR Blu-ray and Xbox One X? What CABLE are you using? Not cables are created equally and or compatible with some front end scalers. 

3. Alexa -- On the addendum in the box (the very first thing you see when you open the box), there were instructions to use the Optoma Connect App to scan the QR Code on the projector to add the Projector to your account -- is very painless. Did you use Optoma Connect? Or did you use the legacy method of generating a pair code and manually entering serial number on the mydevices cloud website?

4. Offset - The offset for UST lens is larger than ST and Standard Throw. The offset for CinemaX P1 (listed on the website and datasheet) is 124%. Yes - the distance between the top of the projector and the bottom of the lens is large as UST lens is MORE complex than ST and Standard Throw -- has nothing do with the manufacturing process. The margin of -+5% is the nature of lenses (in general). 12" is what is expected for 100" image yet the 13" is within the 5% margin. 

5. Flicker on the Launcher (Home Screen) not HDMI Source - there may be an occasional flicker, this will be improved in the next FOTA update (roughly 2 weeks). I will keep everyone posted.


----------



## diggumsmax

ProjectionHead said:


> Pardon me in case I am getting people mixed up, but I believe we spoke about how the P1 will not work with the Firehawk since it is a traditional ALR surface; hence it is not reflecting light from the UST towards the audience.
> 
> 
> 
> The minimum throw distance for a projector to work properly with the Firehawk would be 1.6 x the image width.


Yes, we discussed quite a bit via phone. I knew it was based off what you said but I really wanted to get my hands on the projector before buying a ALR screen. The bottom of the image is higher than I expected from the surface the projector is sitting on.. While it's not a huge deal it is a factor in the size screen I buy after I see If I can retrofit my current credenza to get the P1 closer to the ground. 

In other words,, I was expecting these issues but the light bouncing off the ceiling was way worse than I thought it was going to be. It still looks pretty amazing with all lights off which just makes me want to get an ALR screen more. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## bix26

diggumsmax said:


> Yes, we discussed quite a bit via phone. I knew it was based off what you said but I really wanted to get my hands on the projector before buying a ALR screen. The bottom of the image is higher than I expected from the surface the projector is sitting on.. While it's not a huge deal it is a factor in the size screen I buy after I see If I can retrofit my current credenza to get the P1 closer to the ground.
> 
> In other words,, I was expecting these issues but the light bouncing off the ceiling was way worse than I thought it was going to be. It still looks pretty amazing with all lights off which just makes me want to get an ALR screen more.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk




It’s always a good idea to wait on a screen until your projector is setup. Buying both at the same time is the most common mistake I see people new to projection make, by a large margin.


----------



## diggumsmax

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> OK -- a lot going on in this thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Please set the Xbox to 10-bit and also set the color space to recommended -- then check "4K Details". All items should be green except for 50Hz.
> 
> 
> 
> 2. HDR Content: Source and content, please? From the (cause I have these movies) 4K UHD HDR Blu-ray and Xbox One X? What CABLE are you using? Not cables are created equally and or compatible with some front end scalers.
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Alexa -- On the addendum in the box (the very first thing you see when you open the box), there were instructions to use the Optoma Connect App to scan the QR Code on the projector to add the Projector to your account -- is very painless. Did you use Optoma Connect? Or did you use the legacy method of generating a pair code and manually entering serial number on the mydevices cloud website?
> 
> 
> 
> 4. Offset - The offset for UST lens is larger than ST and Standard Throw. The offset for CinemaX P1 (listed on the website and datasheet) is 124%. Yes - the distance between the top of the projector and the bottom of the lens is large as UST lens is MORE complex than ST and Standard Throw -- has nothing do with the manufacturing process. The margin of -+5% is the nature of lenses (in general). 12" is what is expected for 100" image yet the 13" is within the 5% margin.
> 
> 
> 
> 5. Flicker on the Launcher (Home Screen) not HDMI Source - there may be an occasional flicker, this will be improved in the next FOTA update (roughly 2 weeks). I will keep everyone posted.


1 - all setting on my Xbox have been set to those settings. I should have never changed it to 12 bit in the first place. 

2. 4k Blu Ray and high bitrate content via Plex. At this point I think switching it to 12 bit confused the pj but I could be wrong. The info for the input showed that there was no signal at all in the Optoma menu while video was playing. 

3. I have used both the HDMI cable ship with the projector and the cable. I have one more HDMI 2.0 cable I can try. Below is the one I use that did not come with the projector. 

https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Cable-U...891-4940-bb1d-723c3e76ea89&pd_rd_i=B01CRA11IU

4. Thanks.. I know these things are way different than standard throat projectors. I was just speculating. 

I was using the older method. I will try the new method when I get home. I did find it all that there was no instruction manual in the box, only a quick setup document. 

5. The flickering on the home screen was really weird, exactly half of the screen just started flashing different colors. Hopefully this will be resolved in the next update. The "flashing" issue was on HDMI and has happened on both port one port two but this could be the cable. I know not all cables are created equal but I do know that there are some way overpriced ones out there. I'm certainly not against ordering another HDMI cable if needed. Is there any particular brand you recommend? 

The numbering might be out of order but you get the idea. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

I should have read the reviews before buying the HDMI cable that I linked above. Several people said that the connectors were poor and they had drop outs. I have a higher quality HDMI 2.0 cable hooked up to my 4K TV in the bedroom. I'm going to switch this out when I get home. with that said, I would have expected the cable that came with it to not have any issues. Hopefully switching the cable fixes the issues and I will certainly let everyone know if it does. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## g4s

A couple pictures. The exposure on that wide shot makes it look like the room is dark. It's really pretty bright in there. Surprised I was able to get it setup without any geometry correction. Small position adjustments make big changes.


----------



## Gae80uk

Thanks for all your first tests/pros & cons/pictures and videos 

Found this nice review (Chinese to Eng with Google translate) with plenty of tests with different sources: all look stunning honestly 

http://www.avbuzz.com/audio-video/201910/optoma-p1-1/


----------



## Kdub69

I think we can all agree here that the input lag is the biggest problem so far going from 55ms to 120+ is a deal breaker for lots of people I am hoping this becomes addressed with the next update asap since it was advertised as 55ms. Can we get some more confirmation on this besides we are looking into it? Can they admit that this is a problem? Thanks still excited


----------



## Kev1000000

Kdub69 said:


> I think we can all agree here that the input lag is the biggest problem so far going from 55ms to 120+ is a deal breaker for lots of people I am hoping this becomes addressed with the next update asap since it was advertised as 55ms. Can we get some more confirmation on this besides we are looking into it? Can they admit that this is a problem? Thanks still excited


Yup. As great as other aspects of this unit are, 120ms+ input lag is a deal breaker for me. If there is no way to reduce it via FW updates, I'll have to send this unit back.


----------



## jbl_lvr

Kdub69 said:


> I think we can all agree here that the input lag is the biggest problem so far going from 55ms to 120+ is a deal breaker for lots of people I am hoping this becomes addressed with the next update asap since it was advertised as 55ms. Can we get some more confirmation on this besides we are looking into it? Can they admit that this is a problem? Thanks still excited


Sounds like a software issue with the lag. It doesn't sound unsolvable. If the color is messed or there is flickering, that sounds like physical prob.


For me, how loud the unit is at 8-10' is what I care about the most. Anyone with the projector and a sound level meter? Spectroid is a free android app that will let you find what frequency the fan noise is making if you want bonus points. 

Thanks for the vids and pics folks! Keep 'em coming!


----------



## Kev1000000

jbl_lvr said:


> For me, how loud the unit is at 8-10' is what I care about the most.


It is nearly silent at 8-10'. Even at full power.


----------



## TimHuey

Can someone get a buddy to film them making a character jump or shoot a gun so we can visually see what you are talking about. Put your controller and hand in the frame with the screen so we can see you hit the button and how long it takes for the action to occur.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

diggumsmax said:


> 1 - all setting on my Xbox have been set to those settings. I should have never changed it to 12 bit in the first place.
> 
> 2. 4k Blu Ray and high bitrate content via Plex. At this point I think switching it to 12 bit confused the pj but I could be wrong. The info for the input showed that there was no signal at all in the Optoma menu while video was playing.
> 
> 3. I have used both the HDMI cable ship with the projector and the cable. I have one more HDMI 2.0 cable I can try. Below is the one I use that did not come with the projector.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Cable-U...891-4940-bb1d-723c3e76ea89&pd_rd_i=B01CRA11IU
> 
> 4. Thanks.. I know these things are way different than standard throat projectors. I was just speculating.
> 
> I was using the older method. I will try the new method when I get home. I did find it all that there was no instruction manual in the box, only a quick setup document.
> 
> 5. The flickering on the home screen was really weird, exactly half of the screen just started flashing different colors. Hopefully this will be resolved in the next update. The "flashing" issue was on HDMI and has happened on both port one port two but this could be the cable. I know not all cables are created equal but I do know that there are some way overpriced ones out there. I'm certainly not against ordering another HDMI cable if needed. Is there any particular brand you recommend?
> 
> The numbering might be out of order but you get the idea.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk



I see you're using a 10ft cable! Getting 4K HDR is really dicey at that range. Take it from someone who has gone through over $300 in cable and many different brands/combinations....Save your self some grief and buy cables rated for 8K. They are not that much more and will save you headache when you try to troubleshoot why you're getting drop outs and hand shake issues with 4K HDR content @60 hz/fps. That way you can at least eliminate the cable as the source of your misery. ALSO: get a short 3 ft just for troubleshooting if you run into issues with a longer run ;-)


----------



## MiguePizar

I found this web "neobits.com" with a good price for the optoma p1 , but I don't if it is legitimate or not. In any case, I still not find the difference that I'm looking for between the optoma and my old xiaomi projector, at least not in the pictures, I might go to the Bh photo studio or somewhere where I can see it personally or at least, I will wait for a review with comparisons. Not just video or pictures. 

(I would post the link directly, but I can't, but just go to neobits.com and look for the optoma p1)


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

Tuan said:


> We're looking into it.





diggumsmax said:


> Is there anyway you can measure this. From the research I have done it is not supposed to be this much. Both the distance from the wall and were picture is based off those measurements is way off from Optoma has in there manual. Based off my research, it was supposed to be around 12"'s although that appears to be from an outdated spec sheet. 15 inches away from the wall instead of 10 inches is big difference. Even bigger is that the bottom of the image is 20"s from where the projector is sitting for a 100" screen going by the specs in a previous post. Below is from a screenshot from the manual someone posted earlier today. It appears that this will vary between units but I don't even think I can do a 100"s without having to buy a new TV stand/credenza. I'm not putting something this expensive on the floor and it's starting to seem like that is the best place for it.... Based off the screenshots you posted though it does seem close to 20 inches from the stand the PJ is sitting on to the bottom of the screen.
> 
> 100"
> 13.7795 to 17.9528 inches from the projector is sitting on to bottom of image
> 
> 120"
> 16 to 20.9055 inches from surface projector is sitting on to bottom of image


The diagram in the installation guide will be corrected (shortly) but regardless, to determine the distance from top of the projector to bottom of screen -- 0.24 x the height of the image (0.24x49). If the image is 100" diag - the offset is 11.76". Keep in mind that the margin is +6% and - 2.5%.

As for the throw distance (100" as an example), it can VARY depending on whether SmartFIT is used or not. 100" is roughly 10.5 to 10.75" (give or take) to the projection surface (wall or screen) - no SmartFIT. With SmartFIT (as the projector must be further back) - it can reach 11.75" to 12.5" as the projector must be further back to use the feature. PLEASE remember that the margin can also be up to -+5%.

Please, remember that 100" and 120" is diagonal and not width (just a small reminder).

For Stand Height -- we recommend less than 20". For my demo units, my Stand is 13". 

To confirm - what is the image size? You are measuring from the back top of the unit (I/O side) to the wall or screen? The distance is always to the projection surface. If using a screen - use the screen as the reference point and not the wall. 

Please let me know.


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

Kev1000000 said:


> It is nearly silent at 8-10'. Even at full power.


Yes - the sound is nominal at 8-10'. We worked very hard to keep the noise to a minimum.


----------



## saneace

Things slowly coming together more and more as time permits. Still need to do measurements on the stand to get the throw size optimized (among other things). Media source = NVIDIA Shield + Netflix. Screen = Not opening that can of worms except to say that I did not spend very much.


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

Kev1000000 said:


> It is nearly silent at 8-10'. Even at full power.





Casey_Bryson said:


> I see you're using a 10ft cable! Getting 4K HDR is really dicey at that range. Take it from someone who has gone through over $300 in cable and many different brands/combinations....Save your self some grief and buy cables rated for 8K. They are not that much more and will save you headache when you try to troubleshoot why you're getting drop outs and hand shake issues with 4K HDR content @60 hz/fps. That way you can at least eliminate the cable as the source of your misery. ALSO: get a short 3 ft just for troubleshooting if you run into issues with a longer run ;-)


Sorry -- this is not quite the case. Most well-constructed copper cables are no problem -- unless the distance is 25' or beyond (then we recommend using HDMI Fiber Active Cables -- there are several DTECH cables well below $200 that work very well). In addition, rated for 4K and 8K is very subjective. In the end, a 4K cable should support 4K UHD, 4:4:4, HDR metadata stream and 10bit/12bit. AND, performance varies depending on the SOURCE. 

Here are some Copper and Cooper Active Cables that have passed the test with Xbox One X, Apple TV 4K (has a very marginal signal) and Samsung K8500 4K UHD Blu-ray. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BHQ532H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073R8M49G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186H3TH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I will update the AVL on the Optoma Website to provide a full list of cables that can be used as an alternative. 

Hope this helps.


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

diggumsmax said:


> 1 - all setting on my Xbox have been set to those settings. I should have never changed it to 12 bit in the first place.
> 
> 2. 4k Blu Ray and high bitrate content via Plex. At this point I think switching it to 12 bit confused the pj but I could be wrong. The info for the input showed that there was no signal at all in the Optoma menu while video was playing.
> 
> 3. I have used both the HDMI cable ship with the projector and the cable. I have one more HDMI 2.0 cable I can try. Below is the one I use that did not come with the projector.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Cable-U...891-4940-bb1d-723c3e76ea89&pd_rd_i=B01CRA11IU
> 
> 4. Thanks.. I know these things are way different than standard throat projectors. I was just speculating.
> 
> I was using the older method. I will try the new method when I get home. I did find it all that there was no instruction manual in the box, only a quick setup document.
> 
> 5. The flickering on the home screen was really weird, exactly half of the screen just started flashing different colors. Hopefully this will be resolved in the next update. The "flashing" issue was on HDMI and has happened on both port one port two but this could be the cable. I know not all cables are created equal but I do know that there are some way overpriced ones out there. I'm certainly not against ordering another HDMI cable if needed. Is there any particular brand you recommend?
> 
> The numbering might be out of order but you get the idea.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


2. Please reset the Xbox and clear the cache by holding down the power button until the console powers off. Also, ensure that HDR is still enabled under the menu (Image Settings > Dynamic Range.

3. We are testing some Copper and Copper Active Cables, here are a few:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BHQ532H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073R8M49G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186H3TH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

We will update our AVL in the next few days. 

5. Yes - the upcoming FOTA will focus on the DDP flashing issue on the Launcher.


Please keep me posted.


----------



## diggumsmax

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> The diagram in the installation guide will be corrected (shortly) but regardless, to determine the distance from top of the projector to bottom of screen -- 0.24 x the height of the image (0.24x49). If the image is 100" diag - the offset is 11.76". Keep in mind that the margin is +6% and - 2.5%.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To confirm - what is the image size? You are measuring from the back top of the unit (I/O side) to the wall or screen? The distance is always to the projection surface. If using a screen - use the screen as the reference point and not the wall.
> 
> 
> 
> Please let me know.


This image from the projector surface is 11.75 inches. I had not factored in the 2 inches where my screen was so that's my miscalculation. Right now the image is 51 inches high so probably between 104 and 107 inches so the distance from the back of the projector to the screen (not the wall). I can't measure corner to corner at the moment.. 

It is 16.25 inches from the service the projector is sitting on to the bottom of the image. I never factored in the offset and thought the image might be a little bit to low before I got the projector. Even with the offset that still seems a bit high but since I can't measure the exact size of the image, I could be wrong. It's less than 110 but more 103. 

I'm starting to think some of the HDMI hand shaking issues yesterday on my Xbox was the HDMI cable. I switched it out with a different one and I've only had flickering on the menu since than and that will be fixed. The odd thing is is I had the most issues with the cable that came in the box. This third cable is up higher quality. 

The HDR thing is weird. If I play Plex I get HDR with HDR content. With Blu-ray it's hit or miss. I get it sometimes and other times I don't. sometimes ejecting the disk and putting it back in works, sometimes restarting the Xbox resolves it, and sometimes restarting the projector resolves it. The weirdest thing is Plex seems to always work with HDR besides when I changed the color bit to 12 yesterday. 


Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## saneace

diggumsmax said:


> This image from the projector surface is 11.75 inches. I had not factored in the 2 inches where my screen was so that's my miscalculation. Right now the image is 51 inches high so probably between 104 and 107 inches so the distance from the back of the projector to the screen (not the wall). I can't measure corner to corner at the moment..
> 
> It is 16.25 inches from the service the projector is sitting on to the bottom of the image. I never factored in the offset and thought the image might be a little bit to low before I got the projector. Even with the offset that still seems a bit high but since I can't measure the exact size of the image, I could be wrong. It's less than 110 but more 103.
> 
> I'm starting to think some of the HDMI hand shaking issues yesterday on my Xbox was the HDMI cable. I switched it out with a different one and I've only had flickering on the menu since than and that will be fixed. The odd thing is is I had the most issues with the cable that came in the box. This third cable is up higher quality.
> 
> The HDR thing is weird. If I play Plex I get HDR with HDR content. With Blu-ray it's hit or miss. I get it sometimes and other times I don't. sometimes ejecting the disk and putting it back in works, sometimes restarting the Xbox resolves it, and sometimes restarting the projector resolves it. The weirdest thing is Plex seems to always work with HDR besides when I changed the color bit to 12 yesterday.
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


I want to wait until I have a full list of what is on my mind before getting into this meaningfully, but in general terms, it appears to me that the firmware / OS still needs some work if this projector is ever going to reach its full potential. Initial impression is that the hardware is on point, but when you stop to consider that part of the marketing appeal for this unit is that it can function as something of a "plug it in and go" item, then the firmware / android backbone should deliver a more robust, fluid user experience than what I see at present. Kudos on the hardware, but have some work to do on the software side (ideally we are moving toward a purer and more up-to-date android interface).


----------



## diggumsmax

saneace said:


> I want to wait until I have a full list of what is on my mind before getting into this meaningfully, but in general terms, it appears to me that the firmware / OS still needs some work if this projector is ever going to reach its full potential. Initial impression is that the hardware is on point, but when you stop to consider that part of the marketing appeal for this unit is that it can function as something of a "plug it in and go" item, then the firmware / android backbone should deliver a more robust, fluid user experience than what I see at present. Kudos on the hardware, but have some work to do on the software side (ideally we are moving toward a purer and more up-to-date android interface).


While I agree about the software, the picture on this thing is amazing. Especially HDR content. I'm starting to think the HDR issue I've been having is on the Xbox side, not the P1. I also don't have the right screen for this thing.

Black Panther was a visual masterpiece on this thing. Watching John Wick 2 right now and the P1 is by far the best image I've ever seen from a projector I have not seen the lg or other various models though. . While I won't use it the long run, the sound bar is amazing as well.

I have not had one single issue at all actually watching video content. it appears that some of the issues I was having yesterday was due to a bad HDMI cable. I still don't understand the Xbox issue but I'll figure it out later. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## g4s

TimHuey said:


> Can someone get a buddy to film them making a character jump or shoot a gun so we can visually see what you are talking about. Put your controller and hand in the frame with the screen so we can see you hit the button and how long it takes for the action to occur.


I'm not a gamer, but the lag is immediately noticeable when I move the mouse cursor on my Mac Mini or maneuver around the KODI interface.
I don't have SmartFit or PureMotion running.


----------



## Kdub69

g4s said:


> TimHuey said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can someone get a buddy to film them making a character jump or shoot a gun so we can visually see what you are talking about. Put your controller and hand in the frame with the screen so we can see you hit the button and how long it takes for the action to occur.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not a gamer, but the lag is immediately noticeable when I move the mouse cursor on my Mac Mini or maneuver around the KODI interface.
> I don't have SmartFit or PureMotion running.
Click to expand...


This has to be fixed otherwise i’m sending mine back... false advertising at 55ms


----------



## tambur123

Kdub69 said:


> This has to be fixed otherwise i’m sending mine back... false advertising at 55ms


Eventually it’s going to be fixed, Optoma has a decent track record of firmware updates. I’m preordering mine today because I’ve waited long enough for an alternative to chinese imports with european warranty


----------



## mlkconcept

Does anyone have tried 3D? With Dune, Zidoo or similar, Is it full 1080p 3D? How is the stutter, brightness, colors? Can you play MVC/Iso files?
Thank you !

Enviado desde mi SM-G950F mediante Tapatalk


----------



## kalle4242

*Price in EU/Germany*

Great that the first reviews show up now.

In Germany the first reseller (beamer-discount) changed the price to 3.499 EUR from 3.995 EUR with an announced delivery date of 24th of October. But still there are lots of different technical specs flying around (here: 3.200 Lumens instead 3.500 etc. ). So looks like Europe has to wait a bit longer...


----------



## copperfield74

kalle4242 said:


> Great that the first reviews show up now.
> 
> In Germany the first reseller (beamer-discount) changed the price to 3.499 EUR from 3.995 EUR with an announced delivery date of 24th of October. But still there are lots of different technical specs flying around (here: 3.200 Lumens instead 3.500 etc. ). So looks like Europe has to wait a bit longer...


 Optoma Germany told me 2 days ago that the price will also be 3299€! It's really strange how all this plays out.
They also told me that they will release all information for Germany beginning/mid next week (price and real specs)


----------



## solal-

Kdub69 said:


> I think we can all agree here that the input lag is the biggest problem so far going from 55ms to 120+ is a deal breaker for lots of people I am hoping this becomes addressed with the next update asap since it was advertised as 55ms. Can we get some more confirmation on this besides we are looking into it? Can they admit that this is a problem? Thanks still excited



I agree with you that the same problem for me, the epson LS500 have a very good input lag but the problem is the distance ratio which is very bad. At first I planned to buy the optoma but 120ms seems to much to play any game.


----------



## solal-

Gae80uk said:


> Thanks for all your first tests/pros & cons/pictures and videos
> 
> Found this nice review (Chinese to Eng with Google translate) with plenty of tests with different sources: all look stunning honestly
> 
> http://www.avbuzz.com/audio-video/201910/optoma-p1-1/



Yes the picture look crazy but it seems the projector is not connected to any source even power  And even more they show video game picture but it's not connected to playstation or an xbox


----------



## copperfield74

solal- said:


> Yes the picture look crazy but it seems the projector is not connected to any source even power  And even more they show video game picture but it's not connected to playstation or an xbox


He photoshoped the cables and the plugs. In the picture with the lady with the big boobs, you can see the socket in the wall (Yes I really enjoyed that picture but still saw the socket, which dissapeared in the next picture)!


----------



## copperfield74

kalle4242 said:


> Great that the first reviews show up now.
> 
> In Germany the first reseller (beamer-discount) changed the price to 3.499 EUR from 3.995 EUR with an announced delivery date of 24th of October. But still there are lots of different technical specs flying around (here: 3.200 Lumens instead 3.500 etc. ). So looks like Europe has to wait a bit longer...


 The german seller Grobi already lowered the price to 3299€! WHOHOOO.....700€ saved considering the first price. So for the old price I now have the projector AND the XY screen. Nice!
So for that price I ordered my projector. It says that it will be ready by 17.October. Fingers crossed.
The only concern is now where to place it. I think that I'll demontage the legs from our rack so that it will be lower. I'm lucky that our rack is already 50cm deep so that we won't have to get so muc distance from the wall.


----------



## kalle4242

copperfield74 said:


> The german seller Grobi already lowered the price to 3299€! WHOHOOO.....700€ saved considering the first price. So for the old price I now have the projector AND the XY screen. Nice!
> So for that price I ordered my projector. It says that it will be ready by 17.October. Fingers crossed.
> The only concern is now where to place it. I think that I'll demontage the legs from our rack so that it will be lower. I'm lucky that our rack is already 50cm deep so that we won't have to get so muc distance from the wall.


Did exactly the same 

So now let´s join the discussion about the right screen - I am starting with the 120" XYScreen ;-)


----------



## solal-

diggumsmax said:


> While I agree about the software, the picture on this thing is amazing. Especially HDR content. I'm starting to think the HDR issue I've been having is on the Xbox side, not the P1. I also don't have the right screen for this thing.
> 
> Black Panther was a visual masterpiece on this thing. Watching John Wick 2 right now and the P1 is by far the best image I've ever seen from a projector I have not seen the lg or other various models though. . While I won't use it the long run, the sound bar is amazing as well.
> 
> I have not had one single issue at all actually watching video content. it appears that some of the issues I was having yesterday was due to a bad HDMI cable. I still don't understand the Xbox issue but I'll figure it out later.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk



As you have an XBOX one, can you tell us how it is to play with the projector ? Is it ok or the input lag is so high so you can't play ?


----------



## copperfield74

kalle4242 said:


> Did exactly the same
> 
> So now let´s join the discussion about the right screen - I am starting with the 120" XYScreen ;-)


I have a 130“ screen in my basement. For the living room I’ve decided to get 100“ because of the room size. But going from 55“ Tv to 100“ should be a big step up.
The screen is waiting here since 2 months. Optoma should hurry up. 😉


----------



## g4s

Has anyone figured out how to enable the audio return channel (ARC)? Maybe my old receiver's having trouble communicating with the P1.
I think my Darbee box might not be passing the audio back to the receiver. Oh well the optical works fine.


----------



## solal-

Optoma France just told me on twitter that for them there is no firmware update intended to improve the input lag because this projector as for goal to be used for home cinema and not for gaming


----------



## Kev1000000

solal- said:


> Optoma France just told me on twitter that for them there is no firmware update intended to improve the input lag because this projector as for goal to be used for home cinema and not for gaming


If they mean not improving it beyond the _stated spec_ of 55ms, that's fine. If they mean not reducing it from the currently abysmal 120+ms, I am sending this unit back.


----------



## solal-

They just replied me that didn't know about the 55ms, so don't care I think they're just sale. What will be great is to have info from 'Optoma pm dude' if the projector really got this input lag (he even told about an input lag of 49ms in amazon faq), we're lot waiting for that info.


----------



## bjanssen

solal- said:


> They just replied me that didn't know about the 55ms, so don't care I think they're just sale. What will be great is to have info from 'Optoma pm dude' if the projector really got this input lag (he even told about an input lag of 49ms in amazon faq), we're lot waiting for that info.


Just to throw another voice into the mix, I was 99% sold on this projector, but am now waiting on the input lag thing. Gaming is certainly not my only use case, but it is _a_ use case. If it really is over 60ms, I'll be waiting for the next gen of projectors in 2020.


----------



## Kev1000000

It really isn't just for gaming. Using _any_ UI element feels incredibly laggy on this projector due to the input lag. Having a "game mode" on this projector which essentially does nothing is the problem. If you have a game mode, it should be < 50ms in terms of input lag. Come on Optoma, help us out!


----------



## bjanssen

Kev1000000 said:


> It really isn't just for gaming. Using _any_ UI element feels incredibly laggy on this projector due to the input lag. Having a "game mode" on this projector which essentially does nothing is the problem. If you have a game mode, it should be


----------



## Kev1000000




----------



## solal-

Yes sure, the only 4k UST with good input lag is the Epson, and the ratio is too high for me, I didn't want to have a 76cm width stand .I used only projector for more than ten years but next month I move to a flat with only 3m from wall to wall, if I didn't find a projector that fit for me (low input lag and good ratio) I will certainly have to buy a TV but I will be disappointed, and the price for a 75" or 85" good quality TV is much higher.


----------



## golcarfel

*Optoma P1 vs LG HU85LA*

Was wondering if anyone that has seen both the Optoma P1 and the LG HU85LA could give a rough comparison between the two. Trying to decide which one to buy (leaning towards the LG HU85LA due to the project-to-screen/wall distance being smaller).


----------



## kalle4242

golcarfel said:


> Was wondering if anyone that has seen both the Optoma P1 and the LG HU85LA could give a rough comparison between the two. Trying to decide which one to buy (leaning towards the LG HU85LA due to the project-to-screen/wall distance being smaller).


Not in person, which is quite hard right now. But I talked to a reseller on Monday who already has the LG on stock and had a hands on presentation the weekend before at Optoma. And he said that he would prefer the Optoma over the LG, because level of detail is very good on both (which surprised me though the LG should technically be better, but he confirmed after I double checked) but brightness and contrast was better on the Optoma. Hope this helps.

But I guess you can wait a few days to see for yourself


----------



## ProjectionHead

MiguePizar said:


> I found this web "neobits.com" with a good price for the optoma p1 , but I don't if it is legitimate or not. In any case, I still not find the difference that I'm looking for between the optoma and my old xiaomi projector, at least not in the pictures, I might go to the Bh photo studio or somewhere where I can see it personally or at least, I will wait for a review with comparisons. Not just video or pictures.
> 
> (I would post the link directly, but I can't, but just go to neobits.com and look for the optoma p1)


Neobits is specifically "unauthorized" by Optoma:

https://www.optoma.com/us/unauthorized-dealers-list/


----------



## ProjectionHead

golcarfel said:


> Was wondering if anyone that has seen both the Optoma P1 and the LG HU85LA could give a rough comparison between the two. Trying to decide which one to buy (leaning towards the LG HU85LA due to the project-to-screen/wall distance being smaller).


I've seen them both side by side. The HU85LA is definitely the superior unit when it comes to colors and contrast. Everyone present agreed on that for sure.
The P1 however BLEW AWAY the HU85LA in terms of the integrated audio.
The HU85La allows you to get much closer to the screen than the P1 so that is also a factor for many people and the console they intend to place the projector on.
The HU85LA is about 2x the price of the P1 however so the question for many becomes "is it worth 2x the price?"
Both are fantastic units at their respective price points.


----------



## bix26

solal- said:


> Yes sure, the only 4k UST with good input lag is the Epson, and the ratio is too high for me, I didn't want to have a 76cm width stand .I used only projector for more than ten years but next month I move to a flat with only 3m from wall to wall, if I didn't find a projector that fit for me (low input lag and good ratio) I will certainly have to buy a TV but I will be disappointed, and the price for a 75" or 85" good quality TV is much higher.




The Xiaomi FengMi was measured at 32ms. It was rooted with a custom OS. It’s hilarious to me that a coding hobbyist was able to pull that off when all the software engineers at pretty much every dlp projector manufacturer can’t get the input lag down to 2x that. Someone needs to hire that guy. The good news is if Optoma tries hard enough they should be able to get the lag down considerably with firmware.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

solal- said:


> Yes sure, the only 4k UST with good input lag is the Epson, and the ratio is too high for me, I didn't want to have a 76cm width stand .I used only projector for more than ten years but next month I move to a flat with only 3m from wall to wall, if I didn't find a projector that fit for me (low input lag and good ratio) I will certainly have to buy a TV but I will be disappointed, and the price for a 75" or 85" good quality TV is much higher.


Don't forget a rooted Fengmi 4K with noise reduction and de-interlacing disabled has tested (EDIT: by gregory "Kraine" of PHC) as low as 32ms. I can confirm it's close if not accurate @ 1080p. I haven't seen a 4K test yet and will test mine this weekend to see if I get similar results @ 4K.


----------



## jbl_lvr

bix26 said:


> The Xiaomi FengMi was measured at 32ms. It was rooted with a custom OS. It’s hilarious to me that a coding hobbyist was able to pull that off when all the software engineers at pretty much every dlp projector manufacturer can’t get the input lag down to 2x that. Someone needs to hire that guy. The good news is if Optoma tries hard enough they should be able to get the lag down considerably with firmware.


Feature lag. Plus the rule: add a feature, gain two bugs. 

It is not surprising to hear it is faster when you strip away all of the features.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

jbl_lvr said:


> Feature lag. Plus the rule: add a feature, gain two bugs.
> 
> It is not surprising to hear it is faster when you strip away all of the features.


Those supposed "features" cause defects so IMHO it's actually much preferred to have those "features" disabled since you get a much better picture without the lag.


----------



## roodof

which screen do you prefer and why,The Elite Aeon AR100H-CLR or the Silver Ticket ST-2-169100-UST?


----------



## Guitarick

Yeah...I'm with everyone else in that 120ms is way too long of a lag. My P1 is scheduled to arrive next Thursday so not sure if I should reject the delivery or not. Hopefully Optoma will have a stance/plan by then. I don't play games very much, but when I do I don't need lag helping my character to "die"!


----------



## bix26

jbl_lvr said:


> Feature lag. Plus the rule: add a feature, gain two bugs.
> 
> 
> 
> It is not surprising to hear it is faster when you strip away all of the features.




Besides MEMC (FengMi doesn’t have this), I don’t think they stripped any features only bloatware. I think the difference is in the Optoma, those features are still running in the background even when disabled. I know almost nothing about code so that’s just a wild guess.


----------



## Kdub69

Where is Optoma dudes response to all the input lag complaints.... we need a clear confirmation that the input lag will get patched and will be working at 55ms...


----------



## Knolly

ProjectionHead said:


> I've seen them both side by side. The HU85LA is definitely the superior unit when it comes to colors and contrast. Everyone present agreed on that for sure.
> The P1 however BLEW AWAY the HU85LA in terms of the integrated audio.
> The HU85La allows you to get much closer to the screen than the P1 so that is also a factor for many people and the console they intend to place the projector on.
> The HU85LA is about 2x the price of the P1 however so the question for many becomes "is it worth 2x the price?"
> Both are fantastic units at their respective price points.


I can't seem to find any information about the HU85LA's vertical projection distance. If you have an HU85LA and P1 on the same table projecting the same image size, is one vertically lower than the other?


----------



## Jungle_Octopus

Is anyone using the Elite AR100H-CLR screen (or any size of that model)? I'm not sure what the XY screen one costs but the Elite seems like it might be the best bang for buck for a dedicated UST screen.


----------



## ERuiz

Knolly said:


> I can't seem to find any information about the HU85LA's vertical projection distance. If you have an HU85LA and P1 on the same table projecting the same image size, is one vertically lower than the other?











Here you go 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Casey_Bryson

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Sorry -- this is not quite the case. Most well-constructed copper cables are no problem -- unless the distance is 25' or beyond (then we recommend using HDMI Fiber Active Cables -- there are several DTECH cables well below $200 that work very well). In addition, rated for 4K and 8K is very subjective. In the end, a 4K cable should support 4K UHD, 4:4:4, HDR metadata stream and 10bit/12bit. AND, performance varies depending on the SOURCE.
> 
> Here are some Copper and Cooper Active Cables that have passed the test with Xbox One X, Apple TV 4K (has a very marginal signal) and Samsung K8500 4K UHD Blu-ray.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BHQ532H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073R8M49G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186H3TH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> I will update the AVL on the Optoma Website to provide a full list of cables that can be used as an alternative.
> 
> Hope this helps.


Sure well constructed cables and good sources help but there in lies the problem: Not every source is up to snuff and getting a good cable @ 10 feet and beyond can sometimes feel like a lottery. Not every cable is created equal and even the gentleman you were trying to help out had better luck NOT using an Optoma provided cable. Ironic no?

I have had dropouts and handshake issues go away after replacing the very cables you are suggesting in your links. *I would avoid those monoprice active ones like the plauge...a little dramatic, but just my experience*. Maybe I got 3 bad ones...one didn't even pass any signal (and yes I know careful attention must be paid to orientation). I will say the newer Monoprice ones that aren't active are much better, but they only go up to 8 feet...I wonder why ;-)

My point was why bother if you can avoid the headache for a few dollars more? It's not rocket science. 48Gps is better than 18Gps. And if you are pushing the upper end of old tech...why not use the new tech? Attenuation of bad signal sources be damned.


----------



## TimHuey

Maybe if someone posted a video of the lag we could make some progress. Could be a common issue with a common solution.


----------



## J Bone

kraine said:


> The first online test of the Optoma UHZ65UST is now available in French and English here :
> 
> 
> https://www.passionhomecinema.fr/blog/index.php/08/10/2019/test-optoma-uhz65ust-lavis-de-gregory/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very good reading.


Anybody with it up and running at this point used any professional calibration tools to find the best settings? I read through this article and it looks like they did provide settings just not in the fullest detail as to what's available on the P1. Much less this is for the UHZ65UST model and not the P1. Any suggestions and pictures of your results using a color gamut diagram would nice.









Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## copperfield74

J Bone said:


> Anybody with it up and running at this point used any professional calibration tools to find the best settings? I read through this article and it looks like they did provide settings just not in the fullest detail as to what's available on the P1. Much less this is for the UHZ65UST model and not the P1. Any suggestions and pictures of your results using a color gamut diagram would nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


The vendor where I ordered my projector sends out every projector with a professional calibration. I'm really curious how it will increase the picture quality.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Uhz65ust = p1


----------



## TimHuey

Casey_Bryson said:


> Uhz65ust = p1


That's the 64 thousand dollar question isnt it.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

TimHuey said:


> That's the 64 thousand dollar question isnt it.


I suppose you're right. Tuan said that's what Europe is calling it, but the spec difference. Is it like the upgrade seen with Xiaomi 4k Mijia versus Fengmi 4K cinema or is it just marketing BS?


----------



## g4s

Casey_Bryson said:


> Uhz65ust = p1


It doesn't make sense that they would be different. Maybe even on the outside labeling. Mine doesn't say CinemaX or P1 anywhere on the projector.


----------



## TimHuey

Maybe it's just the damn metric system messing with us Americans. 

It's a metric lumen. Lol 🤬


----------



## g4s

TimHuey said:


> Maybe it's just the damn metric system messing with us Americans.
> 
> It's a metric lumen. Lol 🤬


Yeah, that sounds about right, but I've seen 3000, 3200 and 3500 lumens for that model. Depends where you look I guess.


----------



## diggumsmax

solal- said:


> As you have an XBOX one, can you tell us how it is to play with the projector ? Is it ok or the input lag is so high so you can't play ?


I played gears of war for a bit and it didn't seem bad to me but it's also a slower paced game. I did hook up my computer and did some screenshots with a stopwatch. (Estopwatch.net) following some video I found on a YouTube. It's in game mode, pure motion off, and it's consistently 200 to 220. Sometimes it got just below 200. I triple verified that I'm using the game mode setting and that pure motion is off. I tried changing some various things but nothing made a difference. I have not enabled smart fit but if there's some setting I could check let me know. If I'm missing any settings please let me know and I'll do some more tests. I also don't know how accurate these tests are. Output from computer is just below 4K because due of the MS surface pro aspect ratio. 

I'm a casual gamer and I'm going to try it out on some faster pace games but at the moment it seems like it's not even close to 55ms. 

I hope this can be addressed in a firmware update. When playing an HDR game you can't even put it in game mode (I don't think) . This is a lot more than advertised IF these tests are accurate.









Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## tambur123

ProjectionHead said:


> I've seen them both side by side. The HU85LA is definitely the superior unit when it comes to colors and contrast. Everyone present agreed on that for sure.
> The P1 however BLEW AWAY the HU85LA in terms of the integrated audio.
> The HU85La allows you to get much closer to the screen than the P1 so that is also a factor for many people and the console they intend to place the projector on.
> The HU85LA is about 2x the price of the P1 however so the question for many becomes "is it worth 2x the price?"
> Both are fantastic units at their respective price points.


and according to PHC review:

_The native contrast is to the clear advantage of the smaller of the two (Xiaomi). The depth of the blacks and the restitution of details in the night scenes are therefore to the advantage of the Xiaomi ._

and also according to PCH, the uhz65ust is better than Xiaomi. So honestly I don’t know what to believe anymore and I’ll probably buy the LG along with the optoma and return the lesser model.


----------



## bix26

tambur123 said:


> and according to PHC review:
> 
> 
> 
> _The native contrast is to the clear advantage of the smaller of the two (Xiaomi). The depth of the blacks and the restitution of details in the night scenes are therefore to the advantage of the Xiaomi ._
> 
> 
> 
> and also according to PCH, the uhz65ust is better than Xiaomi. So honestly I don’t know what to believe anymore and I’ll probably buy the LG along with the optoma and return the lesser model.




I read both reviews. I think Gregory aka @kraine liked the Optoma’s more accurate colors, frame interpolation, and quieter operation more than he disliked the it’s slight contrast and input lag disadvantages. So, I don’t think it’s a contradiction. It just depends on what your priorities are.


----------



## Jungle_Octopus

Be sure to check all your HDMI ports. I found out HDMI port 3 on my unit is only supporting up to [email protected] Tested from multiple sources with multiple cables. The same sources and cables on the other two HDMI ports ran at [email protected] I did check the manual and confirmed all 3 ports should support [email protected] I'll be contacting Optoma soon as I will likely have to get a replacement for this, but thought I should let other known to test them all.


----------



## Quinn2020

Hello everyone, 
i just registered because I am really interested to buy the optoma uhz65ust. 

I hope the lag problem will be patched via firmware. 

But I would like to know more about 3D content. If have read a few previews/reviews which claimed a restricted 3D support. 

Someone in this thread said there is only 3D support if you use a blu ray player.(no sbs, hou playback) 

In a review I also read there is only pc-3D support(??) 

So could someone please test the 3D playback?


----------



## saneace

bix26 said:


> The Xiaomi FengMi was measured at 32ms. It was rooted with a custom OS. It’s hilarious to me that a coding hobbyist was able to pull that off when all the software engineers at pretty much every dlp projector manufacturer can’t get the input lag down to 2x that. Someone needs to hire that guy. The good news is if Optoma tries hard enough they should be able to get the lag down considerably with firmware.


Strange. This is not at all surprising to me. An army of open source coders who care about the point at issue will invariably innovate faster. Here is a good case in point (and perhaps a good hint for any of you that may own Asus Routers): https://www.asuswrt-merlin.net/. Asus stock router firmware is based off DD-WRT, which the nerds among you will likely recognize. This guy decided he could do better, did, and built up such a following at small net builder forums that it is basically the de-facto firmware choice for anybody running an Asus router at this point. We see the same thing taking place with android, e.g., at XDA forums, and if you really want to get right down to it is all essentially just an extension of the linux community, if not as such (cough, android), then at least of the same open source / innovative ethos.


----------



## saneace

diggumsmax said:


> I played gears of war for a bit and it didn't seem bad to me but it's also a slower paced game. I did hook up my computer and did some screenshots with a stopwatch. (Estopwatch.net) following some video I found on a YouTube. It's in game mode, pure motion off, and it's consistently 200 to 220. Sometimes it got just below 200. I triple verified that I'm using the game mode setting and that pure motion is off. I tried changing some various things but nothing made a difference. I have not enabled smart fit but if there's some setting I could check let me know. If I'm missing any settings please let me know and I'll do some more tests. I also don't know how accurate these tests are. Output from computer is just below 4K because due of the MS surface pro aspect ratio.
> 
> I'm a casual gamer and I'm going to try it out on some faster pace games but at the moment it seems like it's not even close to 55ms.
> 
> I hope this can be addressed in a firmware update. When playing an HDR game you can't even put it in game mode (I don't think) . This is a lot more than advertised IF these tests are accurate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


I have not tested, but since you seem to have the setup. Have you tried with HDR turned off? Eye test / feel seems to be telling me that I am getting a better response time if I disable HDR on the console and the PJ, but that is about as blunt of an instrument as exists, which is to say it means practically nothing.


----------



## stfidel

saneace said:


> I have not tested, but since you seem to have the setup. Have you tried with HDR turned off? Eye test / feel seems to be telling me that I am getting a better response time if I disable HDR on the console and the PJ, but that is about as blunt of an instrument as exists, which is to say it means practically nothing.


 Wont turning off HDR be less appealing in terms of picture quality, 
Seems one has to sacrifice something (in this case HDR a Major thing) to get another (better input lag also important)..real bummer


Why cant we have both?


----------



## Usman Amjad

Hi guys just joined and I'm not sure what projector to get. Either I will get optoma uhz65ust for £4000 or the lg hu85la for £4800. They are both brand new and come with warranties. For me there is not much price difference so it just what is the better projector. The projector will be located near a window and I will be obviously using an ALR screen but if there is a better projector in ambient light I would appreciate the information.


----------



## bix26

Usman Amjad said:


> Hi guys just joined and I'm not sure what projector to get. Either I will get optoma uhz65ust for £4000 or the lg hu85la for £4800. They are both brand new and come with warranties. For me there is not much price difference so it just what is the better projector. The projector will be located near a window and I will be obviously using an ALR screen but if there is a better projector in ambient light I would appreciate the information.




The LG is better in almost every way, higher contrast dlp chip, dynamic HDR tone mapping that adjusts in real time, shorter throw, more quiet, better color with no color wheel (color wheels tend to fail sooner than most parts), brighter, lower input lag, better software interface. The only downside compared to the Optoma is that the LG doesn’t support 3D. It’s twice the price but justifiably so imo.


----------



## Usman Amjad

bix26 said:


> Usman Amjad said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi guys just joined and I'm not sure what projector to get. Either I will get optoma uhz65ust for Â£4000 or the lg hu85la for Â£4800. They are both brand new and come with warranties. For me there is not much price difference so it just what is the better projector. The projector will be located near a window and I will be obviously using an ALR screen but if there is a better projector in ambient light I would appreciate the information.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The LG is better in almost every way, higher contrast dlp chip, dynamic HDR tone mapping that adjusts in real time, shorter throw, more quiet, better color with no color wheel (color wheels tend to fail sooner than most parts), brighter, lower input lag, better software interface. The only downside compared to the Optoma is that the LG doesnâ€™️t support 3D. Itâ€™️s twice the price but justifiably so imo.
Click to expand...



Thank you for the very quick response. In the UK we are definitely overpaying for the optoma and I'm getting the LG at a good price so it seems like no brainer.


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

Usman Amjad said:


> Thank you for the very quick response. In the UK we are definitely overpaying for the optoma and I'm getting the LG at a good price so it seems like no brainer.


Hi I’m also in the UK looking at either the Epson LS500, Optoma uhz65ust or at a stretch the LG hu85la. Would you mind sharing where you have found the prices you mentioned for the LG?


----------



## klas

bix26 said:


> Usman Amjad said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi guys just joined and I'm not sure what projector to get. Either I will get optoma uhz65ust for Â£4000 or the lg hu85la for Â£4800. They are both brand new and come with warranties. For me there is not much price difference so it just what is the better projector. The projector will be located near a window and I will be obviously using an ALR screen but if there is a better projector in ambient light I would appreciate the information.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The LG is better in almost every way, higher contrast dlp chip, dynamic HDR tone mapping that adjusts in real time, shorter throw, more quiet, better color with no color wheel (color wheels tend to fail sooner than most parts), brighter, lower input lag, better software interface. The only downside compared to the Optoma is that the LG doesnâ€™️t support 3D. Itâ€™️s twice the price but justifiably so imo.
Click to expand...

It's like cross-shopping Hyundai with a Mercedes for twice the price... LG is just for a different group of buyers. Epson UST is a better comparison and it does seem to have an advantage in some things over P1


----------



## diggumsmax

stfidel said:


> Wont turning off HDR be less appealing in terms of picture quality,
> 
> Seems one has to sacrifice something (in this case HDR a Major thing) to get another (better input lag also important)..real bummer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why cant we have both?


I did those measurements on my computer so if I turned all those things of on my Xbox I would have to guess if it's an improvement or not which won't be accurate. As someone else mentioned, I shouldn't have to based off the specs. I'm a casual gamer but still, 150ms (200ms total) from the advertised 55ms is a pretty huge difference. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## g4s

I was just taking a look at "Oceans: Our Blue Planet" documentary 4k HDR. I'm blown away by the image this P1 produces. Really happy with this projector.


----------



## bix26

klas said:


> It's like cross-shopping Hyundai with a Mercedes for twice the price... LG is just for a different group of buyers. Epson UST is a better comparison and it does seem to have an advantage in some things over P1




I agree if your in the US. According to the poster they’re similarly priced in his country. The poster asked specifically about those two projectors so that’s why I was comparing the two.


----------



## tambur123

klas said:


> It's like cross-shopping Hyundai with a Mercedes for twice the price... LG is just for a different group of buyers. Epson UST is a better comparison and it does seem to have an advantage in some things over P1


I decided tu buy them both and keep the one that looks best to my eyes. "Different group of buyers" is what an Apple user will say to an Android user 😀. I pretty sure that the Mercedes in your analogy would be the Sony vz1000es which is still 20k euro.


----------



## diggumsmax

g4s said:


> I was just taking a look at "Oceans: Our Blue Planet" documentary 4k HDR. I'm blown away by the image this P1 produces. Really happy with this projector.


I have to agree, I started playing Earth: One Amazing Day last night before going to bed, just to see how it looked. I ended up watching the entire documentary. I don't think I paid attention to one word of it though because when this thing is doing 4K HDR, the picture quality is better then anything I have ever seen. I haven't see any of the other UST projectors out there with my own eyes so I have no reference point though. I also haven't gotten an ALR screen yet so I know the picture quality will only improve when I do get one. Being able to stand really close to the screen without the shadow issues you get with a standard throw projector or having someone walk in front of it is a a huge perk but this is true for any UST PJ.

This projector isn't for everyone though. If you are a casual gamer and are using this device primarily for video, I would recommend the P1. If you want a whole solution (sound and video) and are not a hard core gamer then this is the best UST to get. I played quite a few other games last night and didn't really notice the input lag. Either my Epson projector had just as bad input lag so I'm used to it or I just don't notice it like someone who primarily plays games on a monitor with a sub 20ms latency would. Games in 4K HDR are visually stunning when compared to my 1080p non HDR Epson standard throw projector. I do hope that Optoma can do something via the firmware update to improve the latency in game mode though. 

I think Optoma jumped the gun on the soundbar. I know they are trying to make an all in one solution but almost anyone buying this thing probably already has a better sound system. With that said, since my center is to big and used to sit where the P1 is now, I tried to get the volume on the P1 to match as closely as possible to my receiver while leaving my receiver in 5.1 with nothing hooked to the center output from my amp. It was only Dolby Digital (I have not tried ARC yet) but it was a huge improvement over just the soundbar and I got the surround sound experience and actual bass without having to buy a new center so this may be a solution for some of the lesser audiophiles out there.


----------



## g4s

diggumsmax said:


> I have to agree, I started playing Earth: One Amazing Day last night before going to bed, just to see how it looked. I ended up watching the entire documentary. I don't think I paid attention to one word of it though because when this thing is doing 4K HDR, the picture quality is better then anything I have ever seen. I haven't see any of the other UST projectors out there with my own eyes so I have no reference point though. I also haven't gotten an ALR screen yet so I know the picture quality will only improve when I do get one. Being able to stand really close to the screen without the shadow issues you get with a standard throw projector or having someone walk in front of it is a a huge perk but this is true for any UST PJ.
> 
> This projector isn't for everyone though. If you are a casual gamer and are using this device primarily for video, I would recommend the P1. If you want a whole solution (sound and video) and are not a hard core gamer then this is the best UST to get. I played quite a few other games last night and didn't really notice the input lag. Either my Epson projector had just as bad input lag so I'm used to it or I just don't notice it like someone who primarily plays games on a monitor with a sub 20ms latency would. Games in 4K HDR are visually stunning when compared to my 1080p non HDR Epson standard throw projector. I do hope that Optoma can do something via the firmware update to improve the latency in game mode though.
> 
> I think Optoma jumped the gun on the soundbar. I know they are trying to make an all in one solution but almost anyone buying this thing probably already has a better sound system. With that said, since my center is to big and used to sit where the P1 is now, I tried to get the volume on the P1 to match as closely as possible to my receiver while leaving my receiver in 5.1 with nothing hooked to the center output from my amp. It was only Dolby Digital (I have not tried ARC yet) but it was a huge improvement over just the soundbar and I got the surround sound experience and actual bass without having to buy a new center so this may be a solution for some of the lesser audiophiles out there.


With that offset being a lot more than I thought it would be, I had plenty of room for my center channel against the wall. I even raised it 2 1/2".
I wasn't able to get the ARC to work. I figure the problem might be my receiver is several years old or maybe the stand alone Darbee box between it and the P1. The optical works fine though.
I like the soundbar. Most of the time we watch OTA local channels and don't bother turning on the receiver.


----------



## Kdub69

How do you check your hdmi cables/inputs?


----------



## diggumsmax

Kdub69 said:


> How do you check your hdmi cables/inputs?


In regards to the the input signal the P1 is getting? If so, it's in the menu under information, then input source.With HDR content it switches to a dedicated display mode (HDR). There is also user display mode for HDR content if you want to calibrate it.









Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

g4s said:


> With that offset being a lot more than I thought it would be, I had plenty of room for my center channel against the wall. I even raised it 2 1/2".
> 
> I wasn't able to get the ARC to work. I figure the problem might be my receiver is several years old or maybe the stand alone Darbee box between it and the P1. The optical works fine though.
> 
> I like the soundbar. Most of the time we watch OTA local channels and don't bother turning on the receiver.


Unfortunately my center is to big. I might be able to use it if I can retrofit my av cabinet too get the P1 lower. 

Yes, the offset was greater than I expected. Since I'm deciding on what size screen to buy I postponed my projector so both sides are 49 inches high, which is the height of a 100 inch screen. Using the measurement/offset tool that came in the box it's within the threshold, barely. It's just short of 16 inches for a 100 inch screen on my P1. In the image below, the top of the green tape is where the bottom of the image is. 

Apparently the minimum for 100 inch screen is 13.6 inches based of the measurement tool that came inside the box.









Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## g4s

diggumsmax said:


> Unfortunately my center is to big. I might be able to use it if I can retrofit my av cabinet too get the P1 lower.
> 
> Yes, the offset was greater than I expected. Since I'm deciding on what size screen to buy I postponed my projector so both sides are 49 inches high, which is the height of a 100 inch screen. Using the measurement/offset tool that came in the box it's within the threshold, barely. It's just short of 16 inches for a 100 inch screen on my P1. In the image below, the top of the green tape is where the bottom of the image is.
> 
> Apparently the minimum for 100 inch screen is 13.6 inches based of the measurement tool that came inside the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


I'm not sure about a 100", but I can tell you for a 120" the front of the projector to the screen surface measured horizontally is 29" and from the top of the stand to the bottom of the image measured vertically is 19 1/2". For mine anyway.
I'm pretty sure that measuring tool is supposed to hook at those indentations on the back feet on the projector and give you the distance horizontally to the wall/screen for the screen sizes marked on it.


----------



## Kdub69

diggumsmax said:


> Kdub69 said:
> 
> 
> 
> How do you check your hdmi cables/inputs?
> 
> 
> 
> In regards to the the input signal the P1 is getting? If so, it's in the menu under information, then input source.With HDR content it switches to a dedicated display mode (HDR). There is also user display mode for HDR content if you want to calibrate it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Awesome thanks al the hdmi’s should be 60hz correct?


----------



## diggumsmax

Kdub69 said:


> Awesome thanks al the hdmi’s should be 60hz correct?


It handles 60hz and 24hz. Movies are shot at 24FPS so a 4K Blu-ray would be a 24hz. Games are at 60hz. 

I've ordered a higher quality cable to see if I can get HDR from my Xbox one X with Blu-ray 4k disk.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Fedder

Everything here has got me excited. Im disappointed I'll be waiting until November to get mine.


----------



## jbl_lvr

New addendum pdf on the main website. A quote:



> HDR is set to "auto" by default. Whenever an HDR source signal is detected, CinemaX P1 will automatically change the display mode to "HDR" -- ‘HDR” log appear in the top left-hand corner (along with resolution). All other display modes will be unavailable (gray in the menu) -- this is normal behavior (HDR is a color tuned mode therefore there is no reason to change display mode) When HDR is enabled, 4 HDR Picture Modes become available: Standard, Bright, Detail and Film. To access, press menu button on remote, then go to “Settings > Images Settings > Dynamic Range > HDR Picture Mode”.
> CinemaX P1 includes a HDMI 2.0 cable qualified by Optoma. If the included 6' cable is not sufficent to reach the source
> devices or AVR, we recommend purchasing a high quality copper cable or an Active Fiber HDMI Cable. Please see the
> Optoma 4K Cable AVL in the Optoma Support knowlege base at https://www.optoma.com/us/support/knowledge-base/ or
> scan the QR Code to the right.


----------



## klas

tambur123 said:


> klas said:
> 
> 
> 
> It's like cross-shopping Hyundai with a Mercedes for twice the price... LG is just for a different group of buyers. Epson UST is a better comparison and it does seem to have an advantage in some things over P1
> 
> 
> 
> I decided tu buy them both and keep the one that looks best to my eyes. "Different group of buyers" is what an Apple user will say to an Android user ðŸ˜€. I pretty sure that the Mercedes in your analogy would be the Sony vz1000es which is still 20k euro.
Click to expand...

LG is totally worth it and better in every way if you can offord the double price in the US. Apple phone on the other hand is an overrated pos.


----------



## saneace

stfidel said:


> Wont turning off HDR be less appealing in terms of picture quality,
> Seems one has to sacrifice something (in this case HDR a Major thing) to get another (better input lag also important)..real bummer
> 
> 
> Why cant we have both?


Apologies, should have explained my end game better. If having HDR on/off results in a measurable difference, then knowing that is or is not true could be of use to Optima in terms of helping us with a fix. Not suggesting "oh it is okay just sacrifice HDR," but instead "if HDR is turned off and that results in a large reduction in input lag, why, and what can be done to correct it?"


----------



## saneace

klas said:


> LG is totally worth it and better in every way if you can offord the double price in the US. Apple phone on the other hand is an overrated pos.


Just have to vent here because in order for my wife to access HIPA info from home, she has to have an iphone (great IT crew *golf clap*), which in practice means I do too, and I am very unhappy about it.


----------



## diggumsmax

jbl_lvr said:


> New addendum pdf on the main website. A quote:





jbl_lvr said:


> .CinemaX P1 includes a HDMI 2.0 cable qualified by Optoma. If the included 6' cable is not sufficent to reach the source
> 
> devices or AVR, we recommend purchasing a high quality copper cable or an Active Fiber HDMI Cable. Please see the
> 
> Optoma 4K Cable AVL in the Optoma Support knowlege base at https://www.optoma.com/us/support/knowledge-base/ orA quote:


I had more issues with the cable that came in the box than the other 2 HDMI 2.0 cables I have. I've ordered a higher quality copper cable as I've still been having some dropouts when switching sources and a few issues with snow along with HDR issues. 

General question, is fiber any better than copper? It seems like it's needed or beat suited for cables 15ft or longer Would you get the same performance with a 6ft copper as a 6ft fiber cable? I just don't want the drop outs and snow. 

If the new cable doesn't get me HDR on 4K Blu Ray than I am getting a fiber HDMI cable certified by Optoma. It shows up as 10bit & 4.4.4 SDR in the info menu and HDR never comes on. If anyone else owns an Xbox One X, the P1 and has Avengers Endgame 4k Blu Ray ( only 4k Blu Ray I have) it would be greatly appreciated. Any 4k Blu Ray will suffice. I get HDR with every other app/game from my Xbox. 

EDIT: I hooked my Xbox One X to my Vizio and guess what? No HDR. Apparently Avengers Endgame doesn't have HDR(that or it's an issue with my Xbox). I apologize for any confusion as this had nothing to do with P1 whatsoever.



Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## kalle4242

*Nice low board solution for UST projectors*

Just found this pics of a German reseller having a solution specifically created for UST´s - using the LG as example (price is between 999 - 1500 EUR). But it´s also designed for the Optoma - if somebody needs some inspiration how to position the UST 

https://www.facebook.com/HeimkinoBo...QKhjwmKCt68SGr-HzZVamcPZudK1ePfJURA&__tn__=-R


----------



## copperfield74

kalle4242 said:


> Just found this pics of a German reseller having a solution specifically created for UST´s - using the LG as example (price is between 999 - 1500 EUR). But it´s also designed for the Optoma - if somebody needs some inspiration how to position the UST
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/HeimkinoBo...QKhjwmKCt68SGr-HzZVamcPZudK1ePfJURA&__tn__=-R


Thanks for the hint. Nice idea but the old problem still remains.... What about the center speaker? And what about the heat? I'm really thinking about designing my own board and having it made by a carpenter.


----------



## copperfield74

copperfield74 said:


> Thanks for the hint. Nice idea but the old problem still remains.... What about the center speaker? And what about the heat? I'm really thinking about designing my own board and having it made by a carpenter.


I talked with my carpenter and told him about our problems. He'll come to visit me as soon my projector arrives. 
Here are my ideas:
60-65 cm depth
200 cm long
35-40 hight
Projector should be inside the media Board
opening which can be closed when projector not in use
some sort of cable management
around ten sockets on the backside so that only one came goes to the wall socket
a solution for the center speaker
some funky LEDs
on the left and right enough space for Console, Set-Top box, BluRay player and Surround amplifier. 

Any further ideas?
Please send me your ideas.


----------



## kalle4242

copperfield74 said:


> Thanks for the hint. Nice idea but the old problem still remains.... What about the center speaker? And what about the heat? I'm really thinking about designing my own board and having it made by a carpenter.



Though it´s an open enviroment it shouldn´t be a problem as long as the cooling system of the Optoma is not blocked. I have a 3m ceiling so the center speaker is not an issue for me - plenty of space. 

I will wait until I have the Optoma at hand to decide what´s what - But creating an individual design could be a way to go


----------



## diggumsmax

kalle4242 said:


> Though it´s an open enviroment it shouldn´t be a problem as long as the cooling system of the Optoma is not blocked. I have a 3m ceiling so the center speaker is not an issue for me - plenty of space.
> 
> 
> 
> I will wait until I have the Optoma at hand to decide what´s what - But creating an individual design could be a way to go


Does anyone know If one side is an intake fan and if the other is the outtake? It seems like they are both blowing out hot air. You certainly don't want the sides blocked. That LG from that FB post didn't appear to have proper ventilation on the sides. If both vents are pushing out hot air instead of a traditional intake/outtake than that may affect positioning of fans in the av cabinet. 

For the fans, CoolerGuys and AC Infinity have some solutions for AV cabinets with a thermal controller so you can set the temperature for when the fans will turn on and off. If it gets below that temperature, the fans stop. I wouldn't recommend the cheaper USB ones made for computers. I've had bad experiences with those and they are not as quiet as advertised.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## copperfield74

diggumsmax said:


> Does anyone know If one side is an intake fan and if the other is the outtake? It seems like they are both blowing out hot air. You certainly don't want the sides blocked. That LG from that FB post didn't appear to have proper ventilation on the sides. If both vents are pushing out hot air instead of a traditional intake/outtake than that may affect positioning of fans in the av cabinet.
> 
> For the fans, CoolerGuys and AC Infinity have some solutions for AV cabinets with a thermal controller so you can set the temperature for when the fans will turn on and off. If it gets below that temperature, the fans stop. I wouldn't recommend the cheaper USB ones made for computers. I've had bad experiences with those and they are not as quiet as advertised.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Legit points.
So the fans should be on each side?
How much space should be on left and right side to help ventilation?
I would prefer the AC Infinity fans.


----------



## diggumsmax

copperfield74 said:


> Legit points.
> So the fans should be on each side?
> How much space should be on left and right side to help ventilation?
> I would prefer the AC Infinity fans.


I'm not sure myself. If the P1 has an intake fan on one side and outtake fan on other side, I would probably have two, one on the side to pull in air for the intake and another one on the other side to pull out air from the outtake. If both fans are blowing out hot air I would have them both blowing air out of the back of the cabinet as the I have plenty of ventilation from the front of my cabinet. I've got to talk to some people at work who actually have the proper tools or may look up a carpenter as I have no experience or tools to retrofit my current cabinet myself.


----------



## copperfield74

diggumsmax said:


> I'm not sure myself. If the P1 has an intake fan on one side and outtake fan on other side, I would probably have two, one on the side to pull in air for the intake and another one on the other side to pull out air from the outtake. If both fans are blowing out hot air I would have them both blowing air out of the back of the cabinet as the I have plenty of ventilation from the front of my cabinet. I've got to talk to some people at work who actually have the proper tools or may look up a carpenter as I have no experience or tools to retrofit my current cabinet myself.


I found the answer. 
Left and right is outlet and on the back is the inlet.
The recommended space on each side is 50cm. That's a lot, but the recommendation is if there are no fans.


----------



## diggumsmax

copperfield74 said:


> I found the answer.
> 
> Left and right is outlet and on the back is the inlet.


Sounds like three would be the best but that adds up quickly. It would also depend on how closed off the cabinet is. I didn't research it much but it seems like the temperature sensors can only handle two fans at once. I could be wrong though. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## copperfield74

diggumsmax said:


> Sounds like three would be the best but that adds up quickly. It would also depend on how closed off the cabinet is. I didn't research it much but it seems like the temperature sensors can only handle two fans at once. I could be wrong though.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


You can hook up to 6 fans. 
So maybe 3 fans would be needed, or when leaving the backside open just two.
LG recommends 30cm on each side. Looking at the pictures on the FB post may have 10cm each side.


----------



## diggumsmax

I hooked my Xbox One X to my Vizio and guess what? No HDR on 4K Blu-Ray. Apparently Avengers Endgame doesn't have HDR(that or it's an issue with my Xbox One X). I apologize for any confusion as this had nothing to do with P1 whatsoever. It's the only 4K Blu-Ray I own so I didn't have another movie to troubleshoot.


----------



## MDesigns

diggumsmax said:


> I hooked my Xbox One X to my Vizio and guess what? No HDR on 4K Blu-Ray. Apparently Avengers Endgame doesn't have HDR(that or it's an issue with my Xbox One X). I apologize for any confusion as this had nothing to do with P1 whatsoever. It's the only 4K Blu-Ray I own so I didn't have another movie to troubleshoot.


Did you use the 4K disc or the standard bluray?

Lähetetty minun MRD-LX1 laitteesta Tapatalkilla


----------



## solal-

Reading review from optoma.com : https://www.optoma.com/us/product/cinemax-p1/#tab-reviews it seems it's usable to play some video games, I'm still hesitating because of the input lag (maybe I will go to a 85" sony TV), I read some times that it's ok and some time not


----------



## mlkconcept

Does anyone have tried 3d with this Pj.?
How is it, good, bad, great, very bad?

Enviado desde mi SM-G950F mediante Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

MDesigns said:


> Did you use the 4K disc or the standard bluray?
> 
> Lähetetty minun MRD-LX1 laitteesta Tapatalkilla


4k Blu Ray. If it Is HDR and I'm not getting it then it's something with my Xbox one x because I couldn't get HDR on my Vizio either. It's not the P1. The article says it has HDR but it's not dynamic. I'm not sure if they're just talking about HDR+ or Dolby vision. I also read a bunch of other articles where people we're having very issues with 4K Blu-ray from Xbox one X depending on their display. When I play it it shows up as 10bit & 4.4.4 but SDR. 

https://www.forbes.com/sites/johnar...lu-ray-set-to-frustrate-av-fans/#56c062be3966

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

solal- said:


> Reading review from optoma.com : https://www.optoma.com/us/product/cinemax-p1/#tab-reviews it seems it's usable to play some video games, I'm still hesitating because of the input lag (maybe I will go to a 85" sony TV), I read some times that it's ok and some time not


I played anthem and gears of war and I really didn't notice the lag. Honestly I think this is something that people are making it out to be more of an issue then it is. Now if you're super hardcore gamer then this might not be the PJ for you. Either that or my old projector had similar lag I'm just not noticing the difference. I'm a casual gamer though. 

I'll try out Doom and some other games tonight to see if I notice any difference. I may be mistaken but I believe that Optoma may add a game mode for HDR via a firmware update to reduce lag but I could be wrong. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## MDesigns

diggumsmax said:


> 4k Blu Ray. If it Is HDR and I'm not getting it then it's something with my Xbox one x because I couldn't get HDR on my Vizio either. It's not the P1. The article says it has HDR but it's not dynamic. I'm not sure if they're just talking about HDR+ or Dolby vision. I also read a bunch of other articles where people we're having very issues with 4K Blu-ray from Xbox one X depending on their display. When I play it it shows up as 10bit & 4.4.4 but SDR.
> 
> https://www.forbes.com/sites/johnar...lu-ray-set-to-frustrate-av-fans/#56c062be3966
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Okay, dont know what is wrong then. I just asked because it's a standard mistake to use the normal bluray at first time, because they both come in the package.

Lähetetty minun MRD-LX1 laitteesta Tapatalkilla


----------



## diggumsmax

MDesigns said:


> Okay, dont know what is wrong then. I just asked because it's a standard mistake to use the normal bluray at first time, because they both come in the package.
> 
> Lähetetty minun MRD-LX1 laitteesta Tapatalkilla


Well, thanks, I spent quite some time trying to figure this and finally realized that Amazon sent me the regular Blu Ray, NOT THE 4K version. I just checked the disk (thanks again). I went back and looked at my order history and I did in fact order the 4K version. Since I did, I never looked at the disk and it was the first (and only) 4K Blu-ray I owned as I bought it specifically for the P1.

I feel like an idiot now and apologize for any confusion I may have caused in this thread. I'm pretty angry at Amazon right now. Output always showed 4k 24hz but that was just my Xbox up scaling it....

I'm going to go back and edit all my previous posts as this was my fault for not checking the disk......

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## solal-

diggumsmax said:


> I played anthem and gears of war and I really didn't notice the lag. Honestly I think this is something that people are making it out to be more of an issue then it is. Now if you're super hardcore gamer then this might not be the PJ for you. Either that or my old projector had similar lag I'm just not noticing the difference. I'm a casual gamer though.
> 
> I'll try out Doom and some other games tonight to see if I notice any difference. I may be mistaken but I believe that Optoma may add a game mode for HDR via a firmware update to reduce lag but I could be wrong.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Ok thank you for the anwser. The test with Doom also interest me as it's a very speed FPS. And what do you think of the picture quality when playing game ?


----------



## diggumsmax

solal- said:


> Ok thank you for the anwser. The test with Doom also interest me as it's a very speed FPS. And what do you think of the picture quality when playing game ?


Picture quality is excellent. HDR makes a huge difference compared to my Vizio. I hardly ever noticed it and didn't get what all the hype was about. Now I do and I don't even have an ALR screen yet. I haven't seen any of the competing UST projectors though so I can't make any comparison though. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## solal-

diggumsmax said:


> Picture quality is excellent. HDR makes a huge difference compared to my Vizio. I hardly ever noticed it and didn't get what all the hype was about. Now I do and I don't even have an ALR screen yet. I haven't seen any of the competing UST projectors though so I can't make any comparison though.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk



Good to know I have currently a sony hw55es which is a 1080p projector, so I will certainly enjoy 4K & HDR  I will certainly project on a white wall first and then decide if I need a screen (The problem is mostly how to fix the screen on the wall because I'm on an old flat with woodwork on the wall, or I will have to put it above the woodwork but it's at 36" above the floor, so it seem a bit high for a screen).


----------



## Kev1000000

diggumsmax said:


> I played anthem and gears of war and I really didn't notice the lag. Honestly I think this is something that people are making it out to be more of an issue then it is. Now if you're super hardcore gamer then this might not be the PJ for you. Either that or my old projector had similar lag I'm just not noticing the difference. I'm a casual gamer though.
> 
> I'll try out Doom and some other games tonight to see if I notice any difference. I may be mistaken but I believe that Optoma may add a game mode for HDR via a firmware update to reduce lag but I could be wrong.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Plug in a PC/laptop and use a mouse. You'll notice it then. 120ms is really unacceptable for any projector with a "game mode," which Optoma has. I have to assume this is a bug though, since there is no difference in lag with or without PureMotion and/or Geo Correction turned off.


----------



## roodof

made quick search within this thread and came up empty, If my P1 is sitting on my tv stand at a height of 23" where will the bottom edge of my fixed 100" screen need to be? I'm hoping not much higher as to maintain normal viewing height


----------



## Guitarick

While I'm waiting for my P1 to be delivered in the next few days I'm just wondering if anyone who already has one has reached out to Optoma support to ask about the lag issue? If so what did they say or are they radio silent?


Hoping for a firmware fix for this.


----------



## diggumsmax

roodof said:


> made quick search within this thread and came up empty, If my P1 is sitting on my tv stand at a height of 23" where will the bottom edge of my fixed 100" screen need to be? I'm hoping not much higher as to maintain normal viewing height


Anywhere between 14 to 16 inches above the surface the PJ is sitting on for 100 inches. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## roodof

diggumsmax said:


> Anywhere between 14 to 16 inches above the surface the PJ is sitting on for 100 inches.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


found on optoma website,they claim 11.76" with 2" margin of error,how did you come up with 14-16"?


----------



## Casey_Bryson

diggumsmax said:


> 4k Blu Ray. If it Is HDR and I'm not getting it then it's something with my Xbox one x because I couldn't get HDR on my Vizio either. It's not the P1. The article says it has HDR but it's not dynamic. I'm not sure if they're just talking about HDR+ or Dolby vision. I also read a bunch of other articles where people we're having very issues with 4K Blu-ray from Xbox one X depending on their display. When I play it it shows up as 10bit & 4.4.4 but SDR.
> 
> https://www.forbes.com/sites/johnar...lu-ray-set-to-frustrate-av-fans/#56c062be3966
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


That article was pointing out that it only has static HDR...not dynamic formats of HDR like HDR10+ and Dolby Vision

I use the Avengers Endgame to demo HDR because I know what it should like across different projectors/tv's. I've seen it a few times at an AMC Prime theater (dual projectors, more than likely lasers) and my Fengmi comes close--Prime is very bright even in 3D. I'm guessing it would look slightly better (than my Fengmi) on the P1 due to the slight difference in lumens and contrast. 

Either way you should be getting HDR (if you bought the right version). Try this to troubleshoot HDR on your Xbox one: https://support.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one/console/troubleshooting-4k-and-hdr-on-xbox-one


----------



## bennutt

Casey_Bryson said:


> That article was pointing out that it only has static HDR...not dynamic formats of HDR like HDR10+ and Dolby Vision
> 
> 
> 
> I use the Avengers Endgame to demo HDR because I know what it should like across different projectors/tv's. I've seen it a few times at an AMC Prime theater (dual projectors, more than likely lasers) and my Fengmi comes close--Prime is very bright even in 3D. I'm guessing it would look slightly better (than my Fengmi) on the P1 due to the slight difference in lumens and contrast.
> 
> 
> 
> Either way you should be getting HDR (if you bought the right version). Try this to troubleshoot HDR on your Xbox one: https://support.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one/console/troubleshooting-4k-and-hdr-on-xbox-one




As an owner of Xbox One X - PS4 pro - Apple TV - Oppo... I’m here to say that Xbox has the most inconsistent HDR delivery of *any* of them. I’d hate to be relying on that machine as an HDR baseline measure for anything.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## saneace

bennutt said:


> As an owner of Xbox One X - PS4 pro - Apple TV - Oppo... I’m here to say that Xbox has the most inconsistent HDR delivery of *any* of them. I’d hate to be relying on that machine as an HDR baseline measure for anything.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Nvidia Shield is doing a superb job of feeding content to this PJ.


----------



## chakrapani siruvuri

Does anyone have the recommended calibration settings for this?


----------



## chakrapani siruvuri

So far liking it for the hdr


----------



## saneace

In the interest of full disclosure, I primarily play games on PC when I do play them, and my PC monitor is very high end, so my input lag is virtually nil. Having said that, consoles are uniquely well suited for sports games, and after experimenting with some of those, in game mode, using various test configurations, e.g., HDR on/off and similar tweaks, in no case do I think we even approach the ~50ms target that was expected. However, if we are just asking: Is it playable? I think the answer is probably yes, but that is a loaded question. The tolerable level of input lag is necessarily going to differ from person to person and also will differ based on use case, i.e., what are you playing and what level of competition are you playing it at. So, while I had no difficulty drubbing the CPU on Madden 20 (which looks really good by the way - photo attached), I would be very concerned if I needed to hit a WR on a fast timing route with the game on the line against an online opponent. If the ~50ms game mode figure that was accepted originated from Optoma, which I think was the case, then this is not a small oversight, and I would be very interested to hear what they have to say about the subject, both in terms of where matters stand currently (in their view), and what, if any, corrective measure they intend to take. EDIT: The Optoma Datasheet (snip from document attached) is what specifies 55ms.


----------



## DunMunro

Video review:






It's in German but you can enable Close Captions and use auto-translate to the language of choice.


----------



## diggumsmax

roodof said:


> found on optoma website,they claim 11.76" with 2" margin of error,how did you come up with 14-16"?


I don't think you'll find anyone in this thread that has 100 inches at 12 inches from the surface it's sitting on. Others claimed it was 20 inches for 120. 

I have a 110 screen but the image is higher than expected so I am going to try and retrofit my av cabinet. LG has the shortest distance but it's twice as much. I adjusted the projector so each side of the picture was 49 inches in height, which is the height of a 100 inch screen. It was just shy of 16. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Floorit72

Optoma EU just released the specs on the UHZ65UST. 3500 lumens and 2.5 million to 1 contrast. It must have the .66 dmd chip, which they dont specify. 

Link.


https://www.optoma.co.uk/product-details/uhz65ust?utm_campaign=%5BUK%5D+UHZ65UST&utm_source=emailCampaign&utm_content=&utm_medium=email#specifications


----------



## MiguePizar

Floorit72 said:


> Optoma EU just released the specs on the UHZ65UST. 3500 lumens and 2.5 million to 1 contrast. It must have the .66 dmd chip, which they dont specify.


If That's true, that's means that the American version is not worthy, but why make a worst version for the American market, I don't get it.


----------



## Floorit72

If it is the case, it was a terrible rollout. Many customers will have buyers remorse with the P1. If it truly is a better quality version of the P1, it will be coming to north America too.


----------



## solal-

I just ordered my P1 hope I didn't make a mistake for the video game part, but at least I will enjoy the movie


----------



## MiguePizar

Floorit72 said:


> If it is the case, it was a terrible rollout. Many customers will have buyers remorse with the P1. If it truly is a better quality version of the P1, it will be coming to north America too.


Yeah, I asked on amazon, so i'll wait, but if it is like that, I will order the eur version and probably they have more stock than here, because in the US it looks like is already sold until mid november.


----------



## Guitarick

Floorit72 said:


> Optoma EU just released the specs on the UHZ65UST. 3500 lumens and 2.5 million to 1 contrast. It must have the .66 dmd chip, which they dont specify.
> 
> Interesting as on Amazon.com the Optoma PM Dude said that the UHZ65 version was a short throw projector, but the P1 was an ultra short throw projector. Both with 3000 lumens. However, the UHZ65 data sheet calls it an ultra short throw projector. So not sure what/if the differences are. Would be nice if Optoma, who have been very quiet on here recently, would clear this up.


----------



## tambur123

Guitarick said:


> Floorit72 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Optoma EU just released the specs on the UHZ65UST. 3500 lumens and 2.5 million to 1 contrast. It must have the .66 dmd chip, which they dont specify.
> 
> Interesting as on Amazon.com the Optoma PM Dude said that the UHZ65 version was a short throw projector, but the P1 was an ultra short throw projector. Both with 3000 lumens. However, the UHZ65 data sheet calls it an ultra short throw projector. So not sure what/if the differences are. Would be nice if Optoma, who have been very quiet on here recently, would clear this up.
> 
> 
> 
> 😂
> The projector name contains the magic UST abbreviation, I wonder what it means.
Click to expand...


----------



## Guitarick

tambur123 said:


> Guitarick said:
> 
> 
> 
> 😂
> The projector name contains the magic UST abbreviation, I wonder what it means.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know but the Optoma PM Dude specifically states that the UHZ65 is for the middle to back of the room. I'm sure it's UST, but his reply certainly didn't clear up the confusion.
> 
> 
> 
> "Hello, both products have an excellent image - both are laser, 4K HDR, 3000 lumens and HDR. UHZ65 is standard throw and CinemaX P1 is Ultra Short Throw. This decision will come down to whether you want to mount the projector in the middle to rear of the room or install the projector in the same location as a TV (TV Replacement)."
Click to expand...


----------



## Gae80uk

Yeah guys, EU pumped specs are official now. Going for an exclusive retailer UHZ65UST test drive on Friday in London! Will keep you posted with impressions and content


----------



## MDesigns

Guitarick said:


> tambur123 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I know but the Optoma PM Dude specifically states that the UHZ65 is for the middle to back of the room. I'm sure it's UST, but his reply certainly didn't clear up the confusion.
> 
> 
> 
> "Hello, both products have an excellent image - both are laser, 4K HDR, 3000 lumens and HDR. UHZ65 is standard throw and CinemaX P1 is Ultra Short Throw. This decision will come down to whether you want to mount the projector in the middle to rear of the room or install the projector in the same location as a TV (TV Replacement)."
> 
> 
> 
> UHZ65 is different projector than the UHZ65UST. UHZ65 is older normal throw laser projector. UHZ65UST is new ultra short throw.
> 
> Lähetetty minun MRD-LX1 laitteesta Tapatalkilla
Click to expand...


----------



## TimHuey

Gae80uk said:


> Yeah guys, EU pumped specs are official now. Going for an exclusive retailer UHZ65UST test drive on Friday in London! Will keep you posted with impressions and content /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif


I will be in london sunday, what is the name of the store. Or is it secret since it hasnt been released yet?


----------



## Anthony Crisci

Here is a youtube vid from marketing, confirming at least the better lumens. Seems to be the same throw distance. I cant link because I don't have enough history but google Optoma UHZ65UST and it should be the first thing that pops up.

Not to be too cynical on my first ever post, but I don't understand how people are not packing their projectors back up and wait for the newer technology. They literally made the piece of equipment the old generation before they shipped out all of the first orders.


----------



## Gae80uk

Hey Tim, not sure can't reveal yet since it's invitation only (working in media/advertising) but will ask Optoma guys


----------



## diggumsmax

Anthony Crisci said:


> Not to be too cynical on my first ever post, but I don't understand how people are not packing their projectors back up and wait for the newer technology. They literally made the piece of equipment the old generation before they shipped out all of the first orders.


If you're comparing them to some of the Chinese manufacturers, there are a few things you are getting. Better support, a three year warranty, and overall better picture quality. 

While Xiaomi are roughly 2/3rds the price, what's the warranty on it? I think they had a UST 1080p version for the US but for the 4k version you have to buy from China and see off brand seller with maybe a thirty day warranty. Lower lumens, poor color quality (based off of reviews).

If I bought the Xiaomi 4k version and it died after six months I'm pretty positive that there would be no easy way to get a replacement. At best you might have to ship to China and pay for shipping both ways. Input lag isn't much better on the Xiaomi either and I'm more optimistic about Optoma improving it via a firmware. 

There's always something better around the corner and there always will be. Outside the Epson LS500 (early 2020, if it doesn't get pushed back), there aren't any other competing UST's coming out soon. The model for Europe is brighter but you pay for it. Sure, there will be a bunch of stuff anounced in January/February, but so was the P1 and LG at the beginning of the year. The LG is superior in every way. Two laser, no colors wheel, lower distance to where the bottom of the image is but you certainly pay for it. 



Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

solal- said:


> Ok thank you for the anwser. The test with Doom also interest me as it's a very speed FPS. And what do you think of the picture quality when playing game ?


I finally got around to playing DOOM and I didn't notice any lag. DOOM isn't HDR so I was able to put it the P1 in game mode.As of now, there is no HDR game mode so I have no idea if HDR increases lag but I didn't notice it compared to the other HDR games I had played.

I'm a casual console gamer, maybe ten hours a week at most. I don't play PC games so someone who does and uses a keyboard and mouse might be able to notice the lag more but it's perfectly acceptable to me. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## ZAPH

Here’s the official unboxing.


----------



## solal-

Did you use the media player of the projector and does it handle all format (h265 4k hdr for example with large bitrate) ?
Or is it better to use an external media player (nvidia shield, xiaomi mi box S) ? My current projector is 1080p so I didn't upgrade to 4k box yet I have only my ps4 pro that can handle netflix in 4k HDR but it doesn't read h265 4k.


----------



## f.c.g.

can you use the projector instantly using hdmi ports or do i need to wait an operating system to load?

i mean... i have tested the xiaomi and it needs to boot android tv, more than 30 seconds, and it doesn't have netflix or amazon prime, so you are going to need external player as my nvidia shield tv.



Enviado desde mi POCOPHONE F1 mediante Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

solal- said:


> Did you use the media player of the projector and does it handle all format (h265 4k hdr for example with large bitrate) ?
> Or is it better to use an external media player (nvidia shield, xiaomi mi box S) ? My current projector is 1080p so I didn't upgrade to 4k box yet I have only my ps4 pro that can handle netflix in 4k HDR but it doesn't read h265 4k.


I haven't tried the media player but the apps are terrible. All are limited to 480p except YouTube. I have no idea the reasoning behind this. People had mentioned that it may be due to licensing disputes. I play high bit rate (50Mbps +) 4K media from Plex using my Xbox one X. No issues at all. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

f.c.g. said:


> can you use the projector instantly using hdmi ports or do i need to wait an operating system to load?
> 
> i mean... i have tested the xiaomi and it needs to boot android tv, more than 30 seconds, and it doesn't have netflix or amazon prime, so you are going to need external player as my nvidia shield tv.
> 
> 
> 
> Enviado desde mi POCOPHONE F1 mediante Tapatalk


It takes around 20 seconds to boot. it displays an optima splash screen almost immediately. I'm not sure why as I have it in "smartskill" power mode so I can turn it on with Alexa. The full OS may need to load. I don't notice the image getting any brighter over time like I would with a bulb based projector so it's not about warm up like a traditional bulb projector. It's just instantly bright. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## g4s

solal- said:


> Did you use the media player of the projector and does it handle all format (h265 4k hdr for example with large bitrate) ?
> Or is it better to use an external media player (nvidia shield, xiaomi mi box S) ? My current projector is 1080p so I didn't upgrade to 4k box yet I have only my ps4 pro that can handle netflix in 4k HDR but it doesn't read h265 4k.


Yeah, it works great on large h265 4k HDR files. Smooth playback. It doesn't pass thru DTS though. Every other audio format I've tried works. Also, I can't find a way to turn on subtitles. Not sure if forced subs work yet.
You have to format your drive ExFat / Master boot record. Not GUID.

Another thing to know is I don't think master boot record supports a drive larger than 4tb. I tried a 5tb, no go.


----------



## klas

diggumsmax said:


> f.c.g. said:
> 
> 
> 
> can you use the projector instantly using hdmi ports or do i need to wait an operating system to load?
> 
> i mean... i have tested the xiaomi and it needs to boot android tv, more than 30 seconds, and it doesn't have netflix or amazon prime, so you are going to need external player as my nvidia shield tv.
> 
> 
> 
> Enviado desde mi POCOPHONE F1 mediante Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> It takes around 20 seconds to boot. it displays an optima splash screen almost immediately. I'm not sure why as I have it in "smartskill" power mode so I can turn it on with Alexa. The full OS may need to load. I don't notice the image getting any brighter over time like I would with a bulb based projector so it's not about warm up like a traditional bulb projector. It's just instantly bright.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Is it possible to boot directly to your last input?

In Xiaomi it boots to its built in Android first and you have select input every boot


----------



## roodof

g4s said:


> Yeah, it works great on large h265 4k HDR files. Smooth playback. It doesn't pass thru DTS though. Every other audio format I've tried works. Also, I can't find a way to turn on subtitles. Not sure if forced subs work yet.
> You have to format your drive ExFat / Master boot record. Not GUID.
> 
> Another thing to know is I don't think master boot record supports a drive larger than 4tb. I tried a 5tb, no go.


please tell me you found a way to turn on subtitles!


----------



## Gae80uk

@g4s is it passing Dolby Atmos?


----------



## Knolly

I received my Optoma P1 and am going to set it up alongside my Xiaomi A300 for some really basic comparison shots tonight. Aside from that and input lag is there anything anyone would like me to check out while I have both set up?


----------



## Kdub69

Has anyone tried 3d if so can you post what glasses your using that are good? Thanks!


----------



## Gae80uk

@Knolly that would be super helpful!

I guess, few things:

- SDR vs 4K/HDR content (Netflix/Amazon/USB movies)
- black levels 
- projection distance for 100' image
- ALR screen vs 4k grey/white not ALR one
- contrast daylight vs night
- input lag on gaming
- colour accuracy/sharpness
- audio/soundbar performance and audio formats pass through (via ARC) with AV receiver 
- overall noise level
- HDMI devices working fine (i.e. Firestick 4k)

Honestly anything would be precious!

Thanks!


----------



## Kdub69

Just got a message from europe france that their version is the .47 chip set


----------



## Knolly

@Gae80uk

I don't have the capabilities for a lot of that but I'll do my best! No receiver or anything fancy and just a single ALR screeen, but I'm going to plug my Roku Stick+ into an HDMI splitter to output to both screens at the same time. Plus I'll do some testing with my laptop to check input lag between the two. Unfortunately it won't be anything scientific but should at least give a little bit of an idea!


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Knolly said:


> I received my Optoma P1 and am going to set it up alongside my Xiaomi A300 for some really basic comparison shots tonight. Aside from that and input lag is there anything anyone would like me to check out while I have both set up?


Finally someone with the "highend" Xiaomi (with 25% increase in lumens over the base line version) to test against the P1. Should be interesting. I think the biggest differences and most interest should be with the overall brightness and contrast, but perhaps they will only be slight...we shall see. I know my Fengmi is stunning. 

Besides brightness and contrast in HDR I would like to see a comparison of Frame Packed 3D with the same 3D glasses if you can--probably a big ask, but I know there are a lot of 3D fans out there that are looking for the best possible 3D with a 4K HDR capable projector.


----------



## Gae80uk

@Knolly ahah yeah sorry! I went full on with requests!  Anything you can try/check/compare would be gold really...also if you can plug in any Ps4 pro or Xbox-X would be great to see how they handle 4K/HDR gaming


----------



## solal-

g4s said:


> Yeah, it works great on large h265 4k HDR files. Smooth playback. It doesn't pass thru DTS though. Every other audio format I've tried works. Also, I can't find a way to turn on subtitles. Not sure if forced subs work yet.
> You have to format your drive ExFat / Master boot record. Not GUID.
> 
> Another thing to know is I don't think master boot record supports a drive larger than 4tb. I tried a 5tb, no go.



Ok thank you, so it doesn't support ntfs ?


----------



## roodof

Knolly said:


> I received my Optoma P1 and am going to set it up alongside my Xiaomi A300 for some really basic comparison shots tonight. Aside from that and input lag is there anything anyone would like me to check out while I have both set up?


try to display closed captioning please!


----------



## solal-

roodof said:


> try to display closed captioning please!



Roodof you can still use an other player than the integrated one, and if the integrated one didn't support subtitles it will certainly added later. But I hope the integrated player work well and support subtitle too so I will not have to buy a 4k video player. What would be greater is to have a projector with open source firmware so people could improve it more easily but it will not happen soon I think. Nevertheless if the p1 firmware is not signed, it will maybe be possible to modify it, improve it or add support for some other applications. 

Also, the fact that the input lag is high could come from the use of android, I think with a minimal real-time version of linux it could be faster.


----------



## MiguePizar

diggumsmax said:


> If you're comparing them to some of the Chinese manufacturers, there are a few things you are getting. Better support, a three year warranty, and overall better picture quality.
> 
> While Xiaomi are roughly 2/3rds the price, what's the warranty on it? I think they had a UST 1080p version for the US but for the 4k version you have to buy from China and see off brand seller with maybe a thirty day warranty. Lower lumens, poor color quality (based off of reviews).
> 
> If I bought the Xiaomi 4k version and it died after six months I'm pretty positive that there would be no easy way to get a replacement. At best you might have to ship to China and pay for shipping both ways. Input lag isn't much better on the Xiaomi either and I'm more optimistic about Optoma improving it via a firmware.
> 
> There's always something better around the corner and there always will be. Outside the Epson LS500 (early 2020, if it doesn't get pushed back), there aren't any other competing UST's coming out soon. The model for Europe is brighter but you pay for it. Sure, there will be a bunch of stuff anounced in January/February, but so was the P1 and LG at the beginning of the year. The LG is superior in every way. Two laser, no colors wheel, lower distance to where the bottom of the image is but you certainly pay for it.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


So, if money is not the problem, would you rather go for the LG? Because the only thing that makes me wanting to buy the optoma p1 or (if I could the Eur version) is that almost every reviewer said that is the best, but I haven't seen any comparison yet that has showed me that the optoma is really the best for the 3000-6000 usd budget. I Supposed that's best than my old xiaomi because it was the first ust that xiaomi made and it has 3 years now and with a dead pixel.


----------



## kalle4242

*first direct comparison between LG HU85 and Optoma P1*

A German reseller just posted the first video with a short direct comparison( in German)


http://grobitv.chayns.net/ticker

in short: they are pretty close to each other regarding picture quality ( as mentioned before by a different reseller). regarding distance and position to the screen...well, look for yourself.


----------



## copperfield74

kalle4242 said:


> A German reseller just posted the first video with a short direct comparison( in German)
> 
> 
> http://grobitv.chayns.net/ticker
> 
> in short: they are pretty close to each other regarding picture quality ( as mentioned before by a different reseller). regarding distance and position to the screen...well, look for yourself.


He got the projectors today, and tomorrow I already get mine from him. Now that's what I call fast.


----------



## diggumsmax

MiguePizar said:


> So, if money is not the problem, would you rather go for the LG? Because the only thing that makes me wanting to buy the optoma p1 or (if I could the Eur version) is that almost every reviewer said that is the best, but I haven't seen any comparison yet that has showed me that the optoma is really the best for the 3000-6000 usd budget. I Supposed that's best than my old xiaomi because it was the first ust that xiaomi made and it has 3 years now and with a dead pixel.


Yes, I would have bought the LG if money wasn't an issue. I had my eyes on that since they announced it. Once they announced the price the P1 was my only option unless I wanted to wait another year or at least until the Epson comes out early next year. I also haven't been able to find a price on the Epson without an ALR screen because Epson is trying to sell them in a combo. 

I knew the LG was going to cost more due to having two lasers and no color wheel but I didn't expect it to be as much a difference as it was from the P1

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## g4s

Gae80uk said:


> @g4s is it passing Dolby Atmos?


I haven't tried it, but read that it will, but only through the ARC HDMI.


----------



## g4s

solal- said:


> Ok thank you, so it doesn't support ntfs ?


No it doesn't.


----------



## Kdub69

Hi there just got the p1 its amazing the screen in 4k and hdr is j real! Just using it on a wall for now till my screen gets here. If i try and update the software the screen goes black anyone else have that issue or is there no updates available?


----------



## Casey_Bryson

klas said:


> Is it possible to boot directly to your last input?
> 
> In Xiaomi it boots to its built in Android first and you have select input every boot


Klas the newer Xiaomi's/Fengmi/A300 can boot to the input you select in the menu.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

kalle4242 said:


> A German reseller just posted the first video with a short direct comparison( in German)
> 
> 
> http://grobitv.chayns.net/ticker
> 
> in short: they are pretty close to each other regarding picture quality ( as mentioned before by a different reseller). regarding distance and position to the screen...well, look for yourself.


That's interesting...If the 6K LG is close to the 3.2K P1 and the 1.6K Xiaomi is close to it then, and I know I'm extrapolating a bit, you're way over paying for something only slightly better. Sounds a lot like the value proposition between FALD with dimming zones and OLED...you're 90% of the way there will FALD, but paying 3 times the amount for OLED.


----------



## tambur123

Casey_Bryson said:


> That's interesting...If the 6K LG is close to the 3.2K P1 and the 1.6K Xiaomi is close to it then, and I know I'm extrapolating a bit, you're way over paying for something only slightly better. Sounds a lot like the value proposition between FALD with dimming zones and OLED...you're 90% of the way there will FALD, but paying 3 times the amount for OLED.


According to PHC, disregarding the price, from a picture quality perspective the UHZ65UST is still at the top of the chart, followed closely by the chinese imports.


----------



## copperfield74

tambur123 said:


> According to PHC, disregarding the price, from a picture quality perspective the UHZ65UST is still at the top of the chart, followed closely by the chinese imports.


I prefer the better picture quality, the better sound (if needed), the better build quality, the better warranty and the os in my language. And for these reasons I’m willing to pay more. The problems with the Xiaomi 4K are already starting if you watch other forums. I don’t want to deal with the problems of sending it back to China and pay a lot of money to wait 2 months to get it back.


----------



## klas

Casey_Bryson said:


> klas said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is it possible to boot directly to your last input?
> 
> In Xiaomi it boots to its built in Android first and you have select input every boot
> 
> 
> 
> Klas the newer Xiaomi's/Fengmi/A300 can boot to the input you select in the menu.
Click to expand...

But can P1 do that?


----------



## jbl_lvr

Casey_Bryson said:


> That's interesting...If the 6K LG is close to the 3.2K P1 and the 1.6K Xiaomi is close to it then, and I know I'm extrapolating a bit, you're way over paying for something only slightly better. Sounds a lot like the value proposition between FALD with dimming zones and OLED...you're 90% of the way there will FALD, but paying 3 times the amount for OLED.


I'm giving the LG a -1 in my book because it looks like having a UST that close to the wall makes it very touchy to set up. There are many reports in the thread. The p1 having a bit more distance could allow for bigger borders for the frame and easier set up. Agree? 

Reading reviews of the LG where they colour calibrate is also telling. It does not appear to be great out of the box.


----------



## tambur123

copperfield74 said:


> I prefer the better picture quality, the better sound (if needed), the better build quality, the better warranty and the os in my language. And for these reasons I’m willing to pay more. The problems with the Xiaomi 4K are already starting if you watch other forums. I don’t want to deal with the problems of sending it back to China and pay a lot of money to wait 2 months to get it back.


Agree. That's the only reason I haven't bought any of those projectors from China. Anyway, once I'll receive the both the Optoma and the LG I'll decide which one I'll keep based mainly on PQ.


----------



## Kdub69

Is there a link to the calibration for this unit? When watchjng hockey on cinema mode the ice is a bit yellow but on hdr sim it looks good


----------



## tambur123

Kdub69 said:


> Is there a link to the calibration for this unit? When watchjng hockey on cinema mode the ice is a bit yellow but on hdr sim it looks good


For now only the higher lumen, european model has the calibration settings posted: https://www.passionhomecinema.fr/blog/index.php/08/10/2019/test-optoma-uhz65ust-lavis-de-gregory/


----------



## solal-

Does any of you use madvr with tone mapping one the P1 ? Does this really improve the picture quality ? I'm hesitating to make an htpc to go with my P1 or maybe buy a shield, but a HTPC that can handle tone mapping via mad vr need quiet expensive graphic card.


----------



## g4s

klas said:


> But can P1 do that?


Yes, there's no setting for it, but it starts up on whatever input you had it on.


----------



## z80b

tambur123 said:


> According to PHC, disregarding the price, from a picture quality perspective the UHZ65UST is still at the top of the chart, followed closely by the chinese imports.


That's not actually what they say. There is an note saying the last place of the LG is due to it's price, and that if it was the same price as the P1 it would be at the top again. 
Given that the LG is not available in Europe as of yet, but the Optoma unit is, this promotion of the Optoma as better than the LG should probably be taken with a pinch of salt 

I'll wait for more reviews of the Optoma.


----------



## solal-

z80b said:


> That's not actually what they say. There is an note saying the last place of the LG is due to it's price, and that if it was the same price as the P1 it would be at the top again.
> Given that the LG is not available in Europe as of yet, but the Optoma unit is, this promotion of the Optoma as better than the LG should probably be taken with a pinch of salt
> 
> I'll wait for more reviews of the Optoma.



I think you misread, he say that a the same price the LG will be in the first one, not the first one, and the LG is available in Europe his name is LG cinebeam HU85LS vivo


----------



## J Bone

klas said:


> But can P1 do that?




Yes. Granted I am only using one input, but I can confirm it powers on into my HDMI 1 every time rather than the home screen.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## z80b

solal- said:


> I think you misread, he say that a the same price the LG will be in the first one, not the first one, and the LG is available in Europe his name is LG cinebeam HU85LS vivo


Perhaps something lost in translation French>English?

"Regarding the last place of the LG HU85LA it is mainly the consequence of the poor quality / price ratio of a projector that could return to the top places if it was marketed at the price of 3000 €."

As such the rating is not based on picture quality.


----------



## solal-

z80b said:


> Perhaps something lost in translation French>English?
> 
> "Regarding the last place of the LG HU85LA it is mainly the consequence of the poor quality / price ratio of a projector that could return to the top places if it was marketed at the price of 3000 €."
> 
> As such the rating is not based on picture quality.



I read it in French as I'm french so maybe  He use the plural "aux premieres places" means "in one of the first/top places", so it's different than "a la premiere place" who is "at the first place", anyway there is not so much places as the chinese are a bit the same projector  Also in his review of the LG he was very hard with it and constantly compared it to the xiaomi it's even look like an add for the xiaomi, as he was selling it via a sponsored link, compared to the other review we can found on the LG. But anyway I don't doubt he is honest, maybe it was just because the xiaomi impressed him a lot, as we see on the next review that he finally prefers other projectors.


----------



## tambur123

z80b said:


> That's not actually what they say. There is an note saying the last place of the LG is due to it's price, and that if it was the same price as the P1 it would be at the top again.
> Given that the LG is not available in Europe as of yet, but the Optoma unit is, this promotion of the Optoma as better than the LG should probably be taken with a pinch of salt
> 
> I'll wait for more reviews of the Optoma.


In the comments, here: https://www.passionhomecinema.fr/blog/index.php/16/10/2019/test-wemax-a300-4k-lavis-de-gregory/ somebody asked the same question, and Gregory's answer was: ". . . Beyond their price, the first classification criterion remains the image and in these conditions it is the Optoma that wins."


----------



## z80b

tambur123 said:


> In the comments, here: https://www.passionhomecinema.fr/blog/index.php/16/10/2019/test-wemax-a300-4k-lavis-de-gregory/ somebody asked the same question, and Gregory's answer was: ". . . Beyond their price, the first classification criterion remains the image and in these conditions it is the Optoma that wins."


If that is the case and you can put up with the longer throw distance, then it is a great option. 
However I am unsure about the Optoma picture quality being better than the LG. 
I've not seen either in person though so can't comment with any authority. 

Hope to see more comparisons between the LG and Optoma.


----------



## f.c.g.

and what about noise? can you hear it at maximum brightness? is it quieter than A300?

Enviado desde mi POCOPHONE F1 mediante Tapatalk


----------



## z80b

Also no mention of rainbow effect?


----------



## z80b

I found another comparison at https://www.hometheaterforum.com/community/posts/4792431/ 

The comparison noted the following;

LG HU85LA advantages:
Big advantage to LG’s HU85LA on the UST distance, e.g. for a 120” 16:9 screen the P1 needs to be placed 14.5” from the screen.
The HU85LA blacks are deeper and have more shadow detail vs. Optoma’s P1 that lacks low luminance detail and suffers from elevated blacks.
The HU85LA delivered a sharper more detailed image. I assume this is due to the better quality lens and better TI .66 chip set and superior video processing. Up-conversion is cleaner, 4K HDR disc playback is also sharper than the Optoma P1. The HU85LA delivers a more dynamic tonal range.
Moderately better color accuracy and color volume on the HU85LA.
4 adjustable feet to help square the image on the screen. The P1 is limited to two back feet.
The HU85LA has a better software app for keystone adjustments.
Input lag is much faster on the HU85LA at about 60ms vs. about 120ms on the P1.
The HU85LA has QAM and OTA built-in decoders and a better web OS operating and Smart interface.

Optoma CinemaX P1 advantages:
Of course, the most obvious advantage is the lower cost at $3,299 UPP for the P1, vs. the MSRP of $5,999 for the HU85LA. The MSRP of Optoma's CinemaX P1 is also $5,999, but they set a UPP at $3,299. LG has not officially announced a UPP price.
3D capable with optional 3D active glasses.
I did not measure the peak and minimal luminance levels, but the P1 appeared brighter.
Better built-in speaker/audio system.


----------



## TimHuey

I keep wondering if someone is ever gonna accidentally set their unit beyond 120 inches and take a picture? What happens, does it explode? Does it shut the image off? I mean if it can do 120 at a very sharp image how much can it deteriorate at 121 inches or 130? I don't want to melt your unit but maybe someone that is projecting on a wall try it at 130 and snap a few pictures of what is going wrong if anything at 130? Many of the USTs go to 150 so it's not a design impossibility but maybe something happens. IF it does I sure would like to see a pic of it and hear if it is distracting or noticeable.


----------



## Tuan

TimHuey said:


> I keep wondering if someone is ever gonna accidentally set their unit beyond 120 inches and take a picture? What happens, does it explode? Does it shut the image off? I mean if it can do 120 at a very sharp image how much can it deteriorate at 121 inches or 130? I don't want to melt your unit but maybe someone that is projecting on a wall try it at 130 and snap a few pictures of what is going wrong if anything at 130? Many of the USTs go to 150 so it's not a design impossibility but maybe something happens. IF it does I sure would like to see a pic of it and hear if it is distracting or noticeable.


It will work, but we only guarantee optical clarity and sharpness up to 120-inch.


----------



## TimHuey

Tuan said:


> TimHuey said:
> 
> 
> 
> I keep wondering if someone is ever gonna accidentally set their unit beyond 120 inches and take a picture? What happens, does it explode? Does it shut the image off? I mean if it can do 120 at a very sharp image how much can it deteriorate at 121 inches or 130? I don't want to melt your unit but maybe someone that is projecting on a wall try it at 130 and snap a few pictures of what is going wrong if anything at 130? Many of the USTs go to 150 so it's not a design impossibility but maybe something happens. IF it does I sure would like to see a pic of it and hear if it is distracting or noticeable.
> 
> 
> 
> It will work, but we only guarantee optical clarity and sharpness up to 120-inch.
Click to expand...

Interesting. So some units may go higher with no or limited deterioration and some may defocus or bow. Well at least we now know a singularity won't form and our units are safe.


----------



## Ilya Peltsverger

Maybe this idea will help someone to find a sweet spot for P1 setup.


----------



## TimHuey

You win the thread! Thread closed.


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

z80b said:


> The comparison noted the following;
> 
> LG HU85LA advantages:
> Big advantage to LG’s HU85LA on the UST distance, e.g. for a 120” 16:9 screen the P1 needs to be placed 14.5” from the screen.
> The HU85LA blacks are deeper and have more shadow detail vs. Optoma’s P1 that lacks low luminance detail and suffers from elevated blacks.
> The HU85LA delivered a sharper more detailed image. I assume this is due to the better quality lens and better TI .66 chip set and superior video processing. Up-conversion is cleaner, 4K HDR disc playback is also sharper than the Optoma P1. The HU85LA delivers a more dynamic tonal range.
> Moderately better color accuracy and color volume on the HU85LA.
> 4 adjustable feet to help square the image on the screen. The P1 is limited to two back feet.
> The HU85LA has a better software app for keystone adjustments.
> Input lag is much faster on the HU85LA at about 60ms vs. about 120ms on the P1.
> The HU85LA has QAM and OTA built-in decoders and a better web OS operating and Smart interface.
> 
> Optoma CinemaX P1 advantages:
> Of course, the most obvious advantage is the lower cost at $3,299 UPP for the P1, vs. the MSRP of $5,999 for the HU85LA. The MSRP of Optoma's CinemaX P1 is also $5,999, but they set a UPP at $3,299. LG has not officially announced a UPP price.
> 3D capable with optional 3D active glasses.
> I did not measure the peak and minimal luminance levels, but the P1 appeared brighter.
> Better built-in speaker/audio system.


This really does confuse things considerably! Being UK based we get charged more for everything which currently means I can get the LG for £3,900 or the Optoma for £3,299.

The Optoma would be direct from uk suppliers, the LG from eBay shipped in from South Korea.

Everything seems in favour of the LG, I particular the easier mounting options..for 100 inch screen it needs to be 2.2 inches off the wall compared to 10 inches for the Optoma. Height below the screen I estimated for the Optoma to be between 13.5 - 18 inches (not sure on the LG but definitely less).

Just wish LG would release it in uk and it would be a no brainer...one other thing grating at me is the Optoma supports HLG (used by bbc for a few things eg. Wimbledon) but the LG doesn’t.


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> This really does confuse things considerably! Being UK based we get charged more for everything which currently means I can get the LG for £3,900 or the Optoma for £3,299.
> 
> The Optoma would be direct from uk suppliers, the LG from eBay shipped in from South Korea.
> 
> Everything seems in favour of the LG, I particular the easier mounting options..for 100 inch screen it needs to be 2.2 inches off the wall compared to 10 inches for the Optoma. Height below the screen I estimated for the Optoma to be between 13.5 - 18 inches (not sure on the LG but definitely less).
> 
> Just wish LG would release it in uk and it would be a no brainer...one other thing grating at me is the Optoma supports HLG (used by bbc for a few things eg. Wimbledon) but the LG doesn’t.



I need to correct the LG measurements having just read the manual.

It’s 3.8 inches from the wall and 13.6 inches below the screen (for a 100 inch screen). So it’s really only the distance from the wall where this beats the Optoma shaving off a good 6 inches


----------



## kalle4242

*Just received mine- first impression*

I just received mine today and did the first tests:
Pro:
- first impression of picture is impressive, and I’m still using just a plain white wall and no screen. The brightness is good enough for usage in daylight.
- The audio is also quite good
- it is a true replacement for my Samsung 65“ screen, even better: no reflections of my windows on the screen anymore which was somewhat of a problem. 
- Ton´s of settings, I even already found some Smarthome feature and it looks like there is even a Wake on LAN feature - that could be helpful for automatization

neutral:
- it is not true 4K, I am typing right now on a mirrored session ( Teamviewer on 120”  ) in 1080p which is obviously the native resolution of the beamer. if I’m switching to the native resolution of my 2K monitor you can see scaling effects and this text is a bit hard to read. but this is as expected and for pictures/movies not a real problem . I compared some 4K movies on the Optoma vs my Samsung 32” 2K and BenQ 4k: If there is a difference it is even up close pretty hard to see.
- Lag: again streaming my desktop to the beamer via Fire 4K stick (pure network delay ca. 25ms, no optimizations on the Optoma): It is of course slower than my previous Samung 65" TV but the delay doesn't seem so bad overall. I will check later in more detail.
- I think I will not use the smartTV function of the Optoma much. They simply cannot compete with the fire TV stick
- Going over 120": You loose quickly focus/sharpness if you go over 120" on the sides. There are setting where you can fine tune, but I guess going over 125-130" will be a challenge

Negative side:
- Distance to screen for 120": Let´s agree that the LG Vevo is truly Ultra Short (I saw it today: It´s is really incredibly close to the screen). But for the Optoma if you want to go to 120" you will need to find a solution with a new low board or whatever. I am lucky that space is not an issue but I still had to move my existing board quite far back. 
- Fan noise: This is a bit annoying. You can clearly hear the beamer from 5m away (when there is no sound of course) and the sound is like my aircon on lowest speed (more on the low frequency side). Right now I just found that the "movie" display mode reduces the noise level, but I hope that Optoma comes quickly with a solution to give the user more control over this

Last but not least: I also had the "flickering" 2 or 3 times on the right half of the screen. Not bad, but this needs to be watched.


----------



## diggumsmax

klas said:


> Is it possible to boot directly to your last input?
> 
> In Xiaomi it boots to its built in Android first and you have select input every boot


Yes, it boots to the input the projector was on when you turn it off. It doesn't take you to the home screen unless you were on the home screen when you turned off the projector

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

kalle4242 said:


> Last but not least: I also had the "flickering" 2 or 3 times on the right half of the screen. Not bad, but this needs to be watched.


I've had the same flickering, it was on the right side when looking at the screen. This has only happened to me when messing around with the picture settings. I got a high quality fiber HDMI cable. It's helped with handshakes and less issues but I've had this issue twice since I switched cables so it isn't the cable. It's exactly half the image when this occurs.

I have found the fan to be very quiet. I can hear it kick in when it goes into HDR mode but then it goes back down. I'm about ten feet away and can barely hear it. It's on DynamicBlack1 so I'm not using one of the lower settings. 

I have not had any noticeable lag when playing games on my Xbox. I imagine if you hooked a PC into this you might have different results. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## qoopy

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> This really does confuse things considerably! Being UK based we get charged more for everything which currently means I can get the LG for £3,900 or the Optoma for £3,299.
> 
> The Optoma would be direct from uk suppliers, the LG from eBay shipped in from South Korea.
> 
> Everything seems in favour of the LG, I particular the easier mounting options..for 100 inch screen it needs to be 2.2 inches off the wall compared to 10 inches for the Optoma. Height below the screen I estimated for the Optoma to be between 13.5 - 18 inches (not sure on the LG but definitely less).
> 
> Just wish LG would release it in uk and it would be a no brainer...one other thing grating at me is the Optoma supports HLG (used by bbc for a few things eg. Wimbledon) but the LG doesn’t.


 Greetings Ian.
That's an excellent price for the HU85L. And likely to get lower in the following weeks.
I believe HLG is supported.


----------



## copperfield74

diggumsmax said:


> I've had the same flickering, it was on the right side when looking at the screen. This has only happened to me when messing around with the picture settings. I got a high quality fiber HDMI cable. It's helped with handshakes and less issues but I've had this issue twice since I switched cables so it isn't the cable. It's exactly half the image when this occurs.
> 
> I have found the fan to be very quiet. I can hear it kick in when it goes into HDR mode but then it goes back down. I'm about ten feet away and can barely hear it. It's on DynamicBlack1 so I'm not using one of the lower settings.
> 
> I have not had any noticeable lag when playing games on my Xbox. I imagine if you hooked a PC into this you might have different results.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Same thing here! It started the flickering when I tried three different display settings. 
Pretty sure the next firmware update will fix this. Hopefully!
I don’t know if I haven’t set it up 100% correctly but I see some light boarders all around the screen. 
I did the keystone perfectly but still a lot of light bleeding. 
Same problems anyone?


----------



## J Bone

copperfield74 said:


> Same thing here! It started the flickering when I tried three different display settings.
> 
> Pretty sure the next firmware update will fix this. Hopefully!
> 
> I don’t know if I haven’t set it up 100% correctly but I see some light boarders all around the screen.
> 
> I did the keystone perfectly but still a lot of light bleeding.
> 
> Same problems anyone?


Yes. I have a thin bezel CLR 100 inch screen. If I align it completely edge-to-edge on all corners manually I have around an extra 1 inch of grayish light around all edges. I think this was a reported tissue on the .47 chip. You can only see it in Pitch Black room so not an extremely huge deal. Just moved my projector slightly forward so it doesn't go edge-to-edge on the screen. Not that noticeable and not a major concern considering some of the other things that are going on. Screen flickering mainly on the right side for 1. I think we're all getting that.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## copperfield74

J Bone said:


> Yes. I have a thin bezel CLR 100 inch screen. If I align it completely edge-to-edge on all corners manually I have around an extra 1 inch of grayish light around all edges. I think this was a reported tissue on the .47 chip. You can only see it in Pitch Black room so not an extremely huge deal. Just moved my projector slightly forward so it doesn't go edge-to-edge on the screen. Not that noticeable and not a major concern considering some of the other things that are going on. Screen flickering mainly on the right side for 1. I think we're all getting that.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


When my LEDs are turned on I can’t see the boarders too. 😂
Just watched some of the YouTube 4K videos and I’m really flashed. What a beautiful picture this makes. Till today I’ve had a 55“ Full HD TV. Now I’m in heaven even when this light pollution makes me a little bit sad.


----------



## copperfield74

I was really looking forward to test 3D but I can’t activate it. 
In the US manual there is a paragraph that says: 
Note: 3D function is unavailable in the following situations: 4K, HDR, HLG, No video signal.
Well, it seems that all the 3D movies on my Nas are HDR. I tried switching HDR off but no success. 
😭


----------



## diggumsmax

copperfield74 said:


> Same thing here! It started the flickering when I tried three different display settings.
> 
> Pretty sure the next firmware update will fix this. Hopefully!
> 
> I don’t know if I haven’t set it up 100% correctly but I see some light boarders all around the screen.
> 
> I did the keystone perfectly but still a lot of light bleeding.
> 
> Same problems anyone?


Yes but I think that's by design for when you have a screen. The frames of most ALR screen are about the same size. UST may be different but with standard throw projectors keystone correction would degrade overall picture quality. 

The flickering thing is odd. It goes away in 3 to roughly 8 seconds so I was a bit worried it was a hardware issue. There is no way we are both having the exact same hardware issue. I do hope Optoma fixes this by the end of the month. The software does feel unfinished. Not from a picture quality standpoint but just odd issues, especially when messing with the picture settings. I'm wondering if that is why it took so long to come out. Everyone has to have their own marketplace. If this thing could run Android video apps it wouldn't be worthless without some input device. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## copperfield74

copperfield74 said:


> I was really looking forward to test 3D but I can’t activate it.
> In the US manual there is a paragraph that says:
> Note: 3D function is unavailable in the following situations: 4K, HDR, HLG, No video signal.
> Well, it seems that all the 3D movies on my Nas are HDR. I tried switching HDR off but no success.
> 😭


So to check if 3D doesn’t work at all I did take a 3D Blu-Ray and that worked. But why doesn’t any of my movies on the Nas? Maybe a problem with Kodi or the FireTv stick???
Maybe the projector doesn’t realize that these are 3D movies?


----------



## tambur123

z80b said:


> I found another comparison at https://www.hometheaterforum.com/community/posts/4792431/
> 
> The comparison noted the following;
> 
> LG HU85LA advantages:
> Big advantage to LG’s HU85LA on the UST distance, e.g. for a 120” 16:9 screen the P1 needs to be placed 14.5” from the screen.
> The HU85LA blacks are deeper and have more shadow detail vs. Optoma’s P1 that lacks low luminance detail and suffers from elevated blacks.
> The HU85LA delivered a sharper more detailed image. I assume this is due to the better quality lens and better TI .66 chip set and superior video processing. Up-conversion is cleaner, 4K HDR disc playback is also sharper than the Optoma P1. The HU85LA delivers a more dynamic tonal range.
> Moderately better color accuracy and color volume on the HU85LA.
> 4 adjustable feet to help square the image on the screen. The P1 is limited to two back feet.
> The HU85LA has a better software app for keystone adjustments.
> Input lag is much faster on the HU85LA at about 60ms vs. about 120ms on the P1.
> The HU85LA has QAM and OTA built-in decoders and a better web OS operating and Smart interface.
> 
> Optoma CinemaX P1 advantages:
> Of course, the most obvious advantage is the lower cost at $3,299 UPP for the P1, vs. the MSRP of $5,999 for the HU85LA. The MSRP of Optoma's CinemaX P1 is also $5,999, but they set a UPP at $3,299. LG has not officially announced a UPP price.
> 3D capable with optional 3D active glasses.
> I did not measure the peak and minimal luminance levels, but the P1 appeared brighter.
> Better built-in speaker/audio system.


Then there must be some differences between the EU model and the US one, PQ wise. Also, why nobody mentions the light pollution in LG, which in my opinion is the biggest disadvantage?


----------



## GregK

copperfield74 said:


> So to check if 3D doesn’t work at all I did take a 3D Blu-Ray and that worked. But why doesn’t any of my movies on the Nas? Maybe a problem with Kodi or the FireTv stick???
> Maybe the projector doesn’t realize that these are 3D movies?


Make sure your Kodi or Firestick is set to output 1080p @ 60fps vs 24fps. Am not sure if Optoma ever fixed it in later models, but my last projector from them would not go into the SBS or TnB 3-D modes if the frame rate fed to the projector was 24fps. If I fed it 1080p at 60hz, then it worked without fail.


----------



## kalle4242

z80b said:


> I found another comparison at https://www.hometheaterforum.com/community/posts/4792431/
> 
> The comparison noted the following;
> 
> LG HU85LA advantages:
> ....


This is what I expected because of the .66 chip. 

But for "[the LG] delivers a moderately better picture quality" I would have been ready to pay 3.999 EUR max - after LG´s price announcement I switched to the Optoma which seems like squeezing a lot out of the smaller .47 chip.
Would be interesting to see a comparison between the Xiaomi 4k and the Optoma for that matter.


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

Would anyone with a setup be able to post a picture or even describe how/where they have positioned their centre speaker (assuming of course you have a dedicated surround sound system). I have been going over and over this in my head and cannot come up with a good solution of where to place it.

Let's say for example there is a standard tv stand below the screen where the amp etc is stored, the projector would go on top of the stand (at the very front due to needing to be far of the wall)...then I can only think maybe squeezing the centre speaker between the projector and the wall...but this would of course block the sound. Another option would be to put the speaker in the cabinet...but that would be too low. 

Having a projector placed directly in the middle does seem to cause issues elsewhere.


----------



## Gae80uk

@ianmclaughlin true, can get the LG Hu85l from Korea on eBay for £3.920 actually (with ebay promo code) but it's with Korean warranty right? Very brave...


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

Gae80uk said:


> @ianmclaughlin true, can get the LG Hu85l from Korea on eBay for £3.920 actually (with ebay promo code) but it's with Korean warranty right? Very brave...


Agreed! That's what is putting me off purchasing from there. Not worth the risk...and this then pushes me towards the Optoma which will have the full manufacturer's support locally. 

However I am now really starting to worry about where I can place my centre speaker! I am starting to again contemplate just going for a 77 inch OLED. This would be a step up in size from the 65 inch LED TV it would replace...but of course not as much as the 100 inch project screen size I was aiming for. However things in favour of the OLED are the cleaner mounting possibilities (centre speaker placed below, no need for the cabinet/projector to be 25 inches from the wall) and of course the far better image quality (HDR/Deep blacks etc) that it comes with. Things in favour of the projector are of course the larger size and it's way cheaper (approx £3200 compared to £4900).

Home cinema can be such as headache sometimes!


----------



## Gae80uk

@ianmclaughlin Same dilemma here mate, size vs overall picture quality (Oled is just impossible to compare I think)

Going now to check the Optoma live for an exclusive retailer event...will give you my honest opinion, hopefully getting to film/get some pics too

Stay tuned!


----------



## drdoom2k

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> Agreed! That's what is putting me off purchasing from there. Not worth the risk...and this then pushes me towards the Optoma which will have the full manufacturer's support locally.
> 
> However I am now really starting to worry about where I can place my centre speaker! I am starting to again contemplate just going for a 77 inch OLED. This would be a step up in size from the 65 inch LED TV it would replace...but of course not as much as the 100 inch project screen size I was aiming for. However things in favour of the OLED are the cleaner mounting possibilities (centre speaker placed below, no need for the cabinet/projector to be 25 inches from the wall) and of course the far better image quality (HDR/Deep blacks etc) that it comes with. Things in favour of the projector are of course the larger size and it's way cheaper (approx £3200 compared to £4900).
> 
> Home cinema can be such as headache sometimes!


Same headache here (and even in the same country!)...hoping that the 77" C9 will drop significantly in price over the next couple of months!


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

drdoom2k said:


> Same headache here (and even in the same country!)...hoping that the 77" C9 will drop significantly in price over the next couple of months!


Yeah me too, to be honest I would probably be happy enough with the 77" C8. Both I'm certain will give a far better picture than any of these projectors....the dream is of course the new LG 88" 8K Oled...but at £30000 that's way out the picture for the next few years at least!



Gae80uk said:


> @ianmclaughlin Same dilemma here mate, size vs overall picture quality (Oled is just impossible to compare I think)
> 
> Going now to check the Optoma live for an exclusive retailer event...will give you my honest opinion, hopefully getting to film/get some pics too
> 
> Stay tuned!


Awesome looking forward to hearing your findings mate, itching to pull the trigger soon but I know waiting it out for more reviews...or even black friday sales is a better strategy


----------



## solal-

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> Agreed! That's what is putting me off purchasing from there. Not worth the risk...and this then pushes me towards the Optoma which will have the full manufacturer's support locally.
> 
> However I am now really starting to worry about where I can place my centre speaker! I am starting to again contemplate just going for a 77 inch OLED. This would be a step up in size from the 65 inch LED TV it would replace...but of course not as much as the 100 inch project screen size I was aiming for. However things in favour of the OLED are the cleaner mounting possibilities (centre speaker placed below, no need for the cabinet/projector to be 25 inches from the wall) and of course the far better image quality (HDR/Deep blacks etc) that it comes with. Things in favour of the projector are of course the larger size and it's way cheaper (approx £3200 compared to £4900).
> 
> Home cinema can be such as headache sometimes!



Take the thalys and your passport, convert some of your money to Euros, go to Europe and buy it from there


----------



## Gae80uk

Ok guys! I have spent about 1h with Tyron (great guy from Optoma Uk) and I have to say...it was impressive. 

We have tried: Planet Earth II (4k HDR), Guardians of the galaxy (1080p) and Bohemian Rapsody (4k) ---> attaching few ss (might be some banding due to my Samsung Galaxy 10 recording, sorry!)

All projected to an old and wavy 82' pull down electric screen (white material) which is probably the worst solution ever...and even then every content looked fantastic.

Now, I am a big fan of Oled for their unbeatable blacks & contrast but what I have seen was surprising: deep blacks, accuracy of colours (check Freddy Mercury's skin tone) and insane sound (said the guy with a 5.1.2 Atmos home theatre).

So Ian, this pj might be the best second thing you might buy after your 65OLED...even the 77 inches one couldn't compare to a 100' of this beauty.

Later will upload some videos if I manage to give a better understanding of why my mouth is still watering...


----------



## Gae80uk

Also guys, I have asked about the differences between P1 vs UHZ65UST thing (specs and calibration) and I have been told that they improved and tweaked the first version for the EU market adjusting few bits...which led to increase lumens and contrast ratio.
Considering the quality of picture with some lights on, looks like it was worth it


----------



## TimHuey

Gae80uk said:


> (check Freddy Mercury's skin tone)


Well I'd like to but that picture won't load. Grrrrrr


----------



## Gae80uk

Now mate? (Ignore the horizontal banding generated by the phone)



TimHuey said:


> Gae80uk said:
> 
> 
> 
> (check Freddy Mercury's skin tone)
> 
> 
> 
> Well I'd like to but that picture won't load. Grrrrrr
Click to expand...


----------



## TimHuey

Gae80uk said:


> Now mate? (Ignore the horizontal banding generated by the phone)


Nope


----------



## Gae80uk

Hmmm...not sure why, it's opening mine in here 

Will try to upload pics/videos somewhere:a quick good hosting site to do it?


----------



## Gae80uk

Ok trying with imageshack

https://imageshack.com/i/pmWDV3Zqj

https://imageshack.com/i/poyrsXdRj

https://imageshack.com/i/pn4nyWtRj


----------



## TimHuey

That worked


----------



## copperfield74

GregK said:


> Make sure your Kodi or Firestick is set to output 1080p @ 60fps vs 24fps. Am not sure if Optoma ever fixed it in later models, but my last projector from them would not go into the SBS or TnB 3-D modes if the frame rate fed to the projector was 24fps. If I fed it 1080p at 60hz, then it worked without fail.


Thanks for the hint but I got it working, kind of!
I really had to turn HDR off so that the 3D menue was available BUT the picture went nearly black and I wasn’t able to get it to work as desired.


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

Gae80uk said:


> Ok guys! I have spent about 1h with Tyron (great guy from Optoma Uk) and I have to say...it was impressive.
> 
> We have tried: Planet Earth II (4k HDR), Guardians of the galaxy (1080p) and Bohemian Rapsody (4k) ---> attaching few ss (might be some banding due to my Samsung Galaxy 10 recording, sorry!)
> 
> All projected to an old and wavy 82' pull down electric screen (white material) which is probably the worst solution ever...and even then every content looked fantastic.
> 
> Now, I am a big fan of Oled for their unbeatable blacks & contrast but what I have seen was surprising: deep blacks, accuracy of colours (check Freddy Mercury's skin tone) and insane sound (said the guy with a 5.1.2 Atmos home theatre).
> 
> So Ian, this pj might be the best second thing you might buy after your 65OLED...even the 77 inches one couldn't compare to a 100' of this beauty.
> 
> Later will upload some videos if I manage to give a better understanding of why my mouth is still watering...


Awesome mate, the pictures look great and yes fully with you on the 100 inch taking things to a whole new level. I have recently splashed out on what will be a 5.2.4 Atmos sound system (getting the 4 ceiling speakers installed tomorrow) so have no need for the sound on the projector. I even have the screen (ALR ZHK100B-PET Crystal) ready as I ordered it from XY screens about a month ago...so all that’s left is to get the projector! Will think a bit more of where I can place the centre speaker, I guess worst case it can go on the floor tilted up slightly. The fact that we can buy them in UK and get a six year warranty (richer sounds) really does make this the one to go for. 

Also obviously nice to hear confirmation that the European version is better than the one being discussed in this thread. So now it’s a decision of whether to buy straight away or wait for Black Friday to see if the price drops! 

Looking forward to seeing your video uploads. Thanks again


----------



## Gae80uk

And there we go with few videos taken: forget the wavy crappy screen and the phone banding, just focus on the amazing blacks, colours, motion handling and powerful audio (Bohemian Rapsody)

Enjoy (and choose 4k resolution since shot like that 

Planet Earth II
https://vimeo.com/367303863?ref=em-share

Bohemian Rapsody 
https://vimeo.com/367305601?ref=em-share


Will upload few more during the weekend or next week


----------



## pepeto2001

Gae80uk said:


> And there we go with few videos taken: forget the wavy crappy screen and the phone banding, just focus on the amazing blacks, colours, motion handling and powerful audio (Bohemian Rapsody)
> 
> Enjoy (and choose 4k resolution since shot like that
> 
> 
> 
> Will upload few more during the weekend or next week





It's funny they demo that product in that screen... Bohemian Rhapsody in a "sheet".


Did you notice anything about noise?, someone said here that it was too high the noise of the projector.


----------



## Gae80uk

Noise was super low...even when there was no sound playing, I went close to the projector but was really quite


----------



## Gae80uk

@pepeto2001 honestly, the creepy screen was retailer's fault not Optoma's...but they showed me few pics/videos running on a proper fresnel ALR screen and looked sick. 

Will ask if they want to share those too


----------



## bropat

Hi,

i've already an 80" ALR screen. I've already read the tech specs and the min size is 85". Is it nevertheless compatible with 80" without loosing quality and sharpness?

Thanks!


----------



## qoopy

bropat said:


> Hi,
> 
> i've already an 80" ALR screen. I've already read the tech specs and the min size is 85". Is it nevertheless compatible with 80" without loosing quality and sharpness?
> 
> Thanks!



Higher nits.


----------



## diggumsmax

bropat said:


> Hi,
> 
> 
> 
> i've already an 80" ALR screen. I've already read the tech specs and the min size is 85". Is it nevertheless compatible with 80" without loosing quality and sharpness?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Is your current ALR screen built for standard throw projectors or UST? If it's for standard throw projectors it won't work with UST. The way they work is different in regards to the angles they accept light and block light. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## MiguePizar

qoopy said:


> Greetings Ian.
> That's an excellent price for the HU85L. And likely to get lower in the following weeks.
> I believe HLG is supported.


Yeah, it seems that way, because I bought my HU85L with a 1000 usd discount at https://www.*********************/HU85LA_UST_laser_projector.php (You have to email them about the sale prices though) but only for New York, but it seems that way in general, because the price difference is too big compared to the optoma. Today is going to arrive in a few hours.


----------



## bix26

bropat said:


> Hi,
> 
> 
> 
> i've already an 80" ALR screen. I've already read the tech specs and the min size is 85". Is it nevertheless compatible with 80" without loosing quality and sharpness?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!




You can buy an 85” 4k HDR tv with better brightness and contrast for $2,500. Why would you consider buying this projector for almost a $1,000 more?


----------



## Cremer Lee

Kev1000000 said:


> Here are some unedited photos from my 120" Optoma P1 setup so far.
> 
> If the input lag can be fixed via a FW update, this will be the UST to beat IMO.


could you please share a video as well?


----------



## bix26

bix26 said:


> You can buy an 85” 4k HDR tv with better brightness and contrast for $2,500. Why would you consider buying this projector for almost a $1,000 more?




If Optoma gets the lag point down with a firmware update then the lag and 3D will make this the better option for gamers and 3D fans. If neither of those features matter to a buyer, then the LG is easily worth the extra money at this price imo. A quick google search shows quite a few places selling the LG at that more reasonable price.


----------



## Kev1000000

Cremer Lee said:


> could you please share a video as well?


Anything specific you'd like to see?


----------



## bropat

diggumsmax said:


> bropat said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> 
> i've already an 80" ALR screen. I've already read the tech specs and the min size is 85". Is it nevertheless compatible with 80" without loosing quality and sharpness?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> Is your current ALR screen built for standard throw projectors or UST? If it's for standard throw projectors it won't work with UST. The way they work is different in regards to the angles they accept light and block light.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

My current ALR screen is for UST (XY Screen).


----------



## bropat

bix26 said:


> bropat said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> 
> i've already an 80" ALR screen. I've already read the tech specs and the min size is 85". Is it nevertheless compatible with 80" without loosing quality and sharpness?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can buy an 85â€ 4k HDR tv with better brightness and contrast for $2,500. Why would you consider buying this projector for almost a $1,000 more?
Click to expand...

Because i've already an ALR UST screen that i used with Xiaomi Mijia 4k (returned because of issues) and the primary goal was to have no reflections (room with unfavorable windows).


----------



## bropat

The only concerns are the compatibility with the 80-inch ALR UST screen and the input lag.

Does anyone have the opportunity to test the 80 inches?


----------



## diggumsmax

bropat said:


> The only concerns are the compatibility with the 80-inch ALR UST screen and the input lag.
> 
> Does anyone have the opportunity to test the 80 inches?


It can do 80 inches. It will just be a bit closer to the wall. If your Xiaomi could do 80 inches then so will the P1. It's around 12 and half inches from the wall for a 100 screen on my P1 so I'm guessing around nine for 80. 80 is just an odd size screen which is why Optoma says 90 to 120. You will also get the benefit of increased lumens at that screen size. The LG might not be able to as it can do a 100 from around 3 1/2 inches. 

I might be able to mess around with it later. What is the viewable (no borders) width and height of your screen correction n inches.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

bix26 said:


> If Optoma gets the lag point down with a firmware update then the lag and 3D will make this the better option for gamers and 3D fans. If neither of those features matter to a buyer, then the LG is easily worth the extra money at this price imo. A quick google search shows quite a few places selling the LG at that more reasonable price.


If you're willing to wait until early next year (unless it gets pushed back) the Epson LS500 looks intriguing. 4000 lumens and Epson is claiming around 19ms for lag although I doubt it is that low. The only issue is there trying to pair it with an ALR screen. Epson said they would sell just the projector but they never said how much. I still don't notice any lag from consoles on my P1. Even when playing DOOM which is very fast paced. I'm a casual gamer though.

Epson says the input lag on its engineering samples of the LS500 has been measured at just under 19 milliseconds, which should make it suitable for competitive play on demanding first-person shooters.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## bropat

diggumsmax said:


> bropat said:
> 
> 
> 
> The only concerns are the compatibility with the 80-inch ALR UST screen and the input lag.
> 
> Does anyone have the opportunity to test the 80 inches?
> 
> 
> 
> It can do 80 inches. It will just be a bit closer to the wall. If your Xiaomi could do 80 inches then so will the P1. It's around 12 and half inches from the wall for a 100 screen on my P1 so I'm guessing around nine for 80. 80 is just an odd size screen which is why Optoma says 90 to 120. You will also get the benefit of increased lumens at that screen size. The LG might not be able to as it can do a 100 from around 3 1/2 inches.
> 
> I might be able to mess around with it later. What is the viewable (no borders) width and height of your screen correction n inches.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Width: 69.7"
Height: 39.2"

Thank you very much!


----------



## bropat

bropat said:


> diggumsmax said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> bropat said:
> 
> 
> 
> The only concerns are the compatibility with the 80-inch ALR UST screen and the input lag.
> 
> Does anyone have the opportunity to test the 80 inches?
> 
> 
> 
> It can do 80 inches. It will just be a bit closer to the wall. If your Xiaomi could do 80 inches then so will the P1. It's around 12 and half inches from the wall for a 100 screen on my P1 so I'm guessing around nine for 80. 80 is just an odd size screen which is why Optoma says 90 to 120. You will also get the benefit of increased lumens at that screen size. The LG might not be able to as it can do a 100 from around 3 1/2 inches.
> 
> I might be able to mess around with it later. What is the viewable (no borders) width and height of your screen correction n inches.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Width: 69.7"
> Height: 39.2"
> 
> Thank you very much!
Click to expand...

Can you please also measure the height of the emitted image starting from the bottom of the projector?

Thanks!


----------



## bix26

bropat said:


> Because i've already an ALR UST screen that i used with Xiaomi Mijia 4k (returned because of issues) and the primary goal was to have no reflections (room with unfavorable windows).




I know your invested in the screen already, still a tv would cost less and perform better (especially in ambient light) than a 4k UST projector. Spending an extra $1,000 on a projector so that you don’t waste the $600 (I’m guessing) for an 80” screen you’ve already purchased just doesn’t make sense. At 80”s a projector has no benefit in anyway. I know some older plasma tv’s had highly reflective glass, screen glare is not much of an issue with most modern lcd televisions. ALR screens do a great job mitigating ambient light, still they can’t compete with a direct display. If your dead set on projection maybe consider an inexpensive 1080p UST. At 80”s I doubt the lower resolution would be noticeable and at least you’d be spending less than you would for an 80” tv. I’m not trying to tell you how to spend your money, but it seems your making a mistake.


----------



## bix26

diggumsmax said:


> If you're willing to wait until early next year (unless it gets pushed back) the Epson LS500 looks intriguing. 4000 lumens and Epson is claiming around 19ms for lag although I doubt it is that low. The only issue is there trying to pair it with an ALR screen. Epson said they would sell just the projector but they never said how much. I still don't notice any lag from consoles on my P1. Even when playing DOOM which is very fast paced. I'm a casual gamer though.
> 
> Epson says the input lag on its engineering samples of the LS500 has been measured at just under 19 milliseconds, which should make it suitable for competitive play on demanding first-person shooters.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk




The input lag is believable, that’s right around where all their newer projectors have come in at. I don’t see any reason why their UST would be any different. There is one downside and it’s the throw ratio. It requires about an extra 7”-9”s from the wall compared to most other UST’s out there. The one I have now is a full 3’ feet away from my screen sitting on a 24” deep credenza. I think if I had to pull the credenza even further from the wall it would look really out of place.


----------



## bropat

bix26 said:


> bropat said:
> 
> 
> 
> Because i've already an ALR UST screen that i used with Xiaomi Mijia 4k (returned because of issues) and the primary goal was to have no reflections (room with unfavorable windows).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know your invested in the screen already, still a tv would cost less and perform better (especially in ambient light) than a 4k UST projector. Spending an extra $1,000 on a projector so that you donâ€™️t waste the $600 (Iâ€™️m guessing) for an 80â€ screen youâ€™️ve already purchased just doesnâ€™️t make sense. At 80â€s a projector has no benefit in anyway. I know some older plasma tvâ€™️s had highly reflective glass, screen glare is not much of an issue with most modern lcd televisions. ALR screens do a great job mitigating ambient light, still they canâ€™️t compete with a direct display. If your dead set on projection maybe consider an inexpensive 1080p UST. At 80â€s I doubt the lower resolution would be noticeable and at least youâ€™️d be spending less than you would for an 80â€ tv. Iâ€™️m not trying to tell you how to spend your money, but it seems your making a mistake.
Click to expand...

thank you for the considerations


----------



## bropat

bix26 said:


> diggumsmax said:
> 
> 
> 
> If you're willing to wait until early next year (unless it gets pushed back) the Epson LS500 looks intriguing. 4000 lumens and Epson is claiming around 19ms for lag although I doubt it is that low. The only issue is there trying to pair it with an ALR screen. Epson said they would sell just the projector but they never said how much. I still don't notice any lag from consoles on my P1. Even when playing DOOM which is very fast paced. I'm a casual gamer though.
> 
> Epson says the input lag on its engineering samples of the LS500 has been measured at just under 19 milliseconds, which should make it suitable for competitive play on demanding first-person shooters.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The input lag is believable, thatâ€™️s right around where all their newer projectors have come in at. I donâ€™️t see any reason why their UST would be any different. There is one downside and itâ€™️s the throw ratio. It requires about an extra 7â€-9â€s from the wall compared to most other USTâ€™️s out there. The one I have now is a full 3â€™️ feet away from my screen sitting on a 24â€ deep credenza. I think if I had to pull the credenza even further from the wall it would look really out of place.
Click to expand...

There's already a Test of the Epson projector on a french blog (passionhomecinema) that's stating 20ms input lag.


----------



## kalle4242

*Some tips and tricks for the Optoma*

Some things I figured out that maybe are helpful:
- Fire TV 4k: If you change the TV in the device manager to "Optoma" you can (at least) also directly use the Power On/Off of the Fire remote
- Remote of the Optoma: If you press the button in the upper right corner for a few secs a menu shows up on the right side of the screen where you can quickly change HDMI port, display options etc.
- dito: If you press the right button below the ring for a few secs you directly activate the focus menu - great for setup or changing position
- dito: If you press the middle button below the ring for a few secs you directly activate the air mouse and can point with your remote directly to the menu´s etc - like the LG. Although the mouse pointer shows up on the Fire stick to it doesn´t work. Tried to pair it already via BT but didn´t work either. 

Hope this helps.


----------



## diggumsmax

bropat said:


> Width: 69.7"
> Height: 39.2"
> 
> Thank you very much!


Yes, it will work. I didn't adjust the focus and it still looks good. These are not the best screenshots but they at least give you an idea of what it looks like at that size. The back of the projector is roughly 7 in from the wall. And the bottom of the inches is 12 in above where the projector is sitting. That was what it was supposed to be for 100 inches. The height of the image was 39.5 and the width was a bit over 70 based off my measurements. 

you will probably want to get a bigger ALR screen at some point. I know it might not be feasible at the moment but down the line it'll be worth it. 

The two things I don't like about the P1 is two false claims from Optoma about the bottom of the image from where the projector sits on (screen height * .24 with a slight difference between projectors was what was advertised) and the lag for games. they may be able to fix the lag through a software update but there's no way to lower the image. Even though it's not noticeable to me unconsoles, I'm sure anyone plugging a PC into this thing would be able to notice it. This is going to require me either to get a new AV cabinet or retrofit my current one as I'm ordering 110 inch ALR screen next week.









Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

kalle4242 said:


> Some things I figured out that maybe are helpful:
> 
> - Fire TV 4k: If you change the TV in the device manager to "Optoma" you can (at least) also directly use the Power On/Off of the Fire remote
> 
> - Remote of the Optoma: If you press the button in the upper right corner for a few secs a menu shows up on the right side of the screen where you can quickly change HDMI port, display options etc.
> .


Thank you. it also looks like holding down that button gives you a lot more options for HDR content. I try to avoid the home screen at all costs. The apps are terrible, smart wall isn't something I'm interested in either. I've been using Alexa to switch inputs and power off. 

I think my remote is messed up though because the middle top button turns off the projector just like the power button. According to the manual this is supposed to mute the speakers. 

Edit: you can't change to any of the ISF settings. I'm wondering why


Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

bix26 said:


> The input lag is believable, that’s right around where all their newer projectors have come in at. I don’t see any reason why their UST would be any different. There is one downside and it’s the throw ratio. It requires about an extra 7”-9”s from the wall compared to most other UST’s out there. The one I have now is a full 3’ feet away from my screen sitting on a 24” deep credenza. I think if I had to pull the credenza even further from the wall it would look really out of place.


Is there a particular reason why DLP UST projectors have such bad lag. I saw a video on YouTube where it was over 100 for the Xiaomi 4k version. There really isn't any other LCD UST that I'm aware of outside the LS 100. I do wish that optima had just gone with Android TV like Epson.

I agree about the distance from the screen that it has to be. That is by far the biggest downside to the Epson. I also wonder what ALR screens they are pairing those with. Is Epson making UST screens now? 

I'm guessing that the are outsourcing it to a Chinese screen maker, hopefully a decent one. If I was spending that much I would want to know who made the screen. I have a feeling that Epson's making more off the screens than the projector when it Is available in quarter one of next year. I could easily be wrong though. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

copperfield74 said:


> Same thing here! It started the flickering when I tried three different display settings.
> 
> Pretty sure the next firmware update will fix this. Hopefully!
> 
> I don’t know if I haven’t set it up 100% correctly but I see some light boarders all around the screen.
> 
> I did the keystone perfectly but still a lot of light bleeding.
> 
> Same problems anyone?


Had this happen today. The entire right side of the screen was dimmer than the left. Stopping the Blu-ray immediately resolved the issue but there's something going on there. Hard to tell from the photos but more noticeable when it happened. This is the first time this has happened. Always the right side of the screen though. I'm really hoping this is just bad software that will get fixed.









Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## J Bone

diggumsmax said:


> Had this happen today. The entire right side of the screen was dimmer than the left. Stopping the Blu-ray immediately resolved the issue but there's something going on there. Hard to tell from the photos but more noticeable when it happened. This is the first time this has happened. Always the right side of the screen though. I'm really hoping this is just bad software that will get fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Had the same happened to me actually a couple of times. I'm glad you captured photos of it. Because I immediately tried turning off the projector and turning it back on to reset the image without thinking of photographing it first.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## bropat

diggumsmax said:


> bropat said:
> 
> 
> 
> Width: 69.7"
> Height: 39.2"
> 
> Thank you very much!
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, it will work. I didn't adjust the focus and it still looks good. These are not the best screenshots but they at least give you an idea of what it looks like at that size. The back of the projector is roughly 7 in from the wall. And the bottom of the inches is 12 in above where the projector is sitting. That was what it was supposed to be for 100 inches. The height of the image was 39.5 and the width was a bit over 70 based off my measurements.
> 
> you will probably want to get a bigger ALR screen at some point. I know it might not be feasible at the moment but down the line it'll be worth it.
> 
> The two things I don't like about the P1 is two false claims from Optoma about the bottom of the image from where the projector sits on (screen height * .24 with a slight difference between projectors was what was advertised) and the lag for games. they may be able to fix the lag through a software update but there's no way to lower the image. Even though it's not noticeable to me unconsoles, I'm sure anyone plugging a PC into this thing would be able to notice it. This is going to require me either to get a new AV cabinet or retrofit my current one as I'm ordering 110 inch ALR screen next week.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Thank you, that was very helpful. I hope Optoma will get a grip on the input lag.


----------



## diggumsmax

At least I know it's not a isolated to my unit. I've had the flickering before (always right side of screen) but This is the first time this has happen

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## bix26

diggumsmax said:


> Is there a particular reason why DLP UST projectors have such bad lag. I saw a video on YouTube where it was over 100 for the Xiaomi 4k version. There really isn't any other LCD UST that I'm aware of outside the LS 100. I do wish that optima had just gone with Android TV like Epson.
> 
> I agree about the distance from the screen that it has to be. That is by far the biggest downside to the Epson. I also wonder what ALR screens they are pairing those with. Is Epson making UST screens now?
> 
> I'm guessing that the are outsourcing it to a Chinese screen maker, hopefully a decent one. If I was spending that much I would want to know who made the screen. I have a feeling that Epson's making more off the screens than the projector when it Is available in quarter one of next year. I could easily be wrong though.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk




Yes, for two reasons mainly. First being that the 4x shifting process inherently adds lag that is unavoidable. This was explained by an electrical engineer on another thread. He looked at Texas Instruments diagram and determined that the minimum lag possible was 30ms. Secondly, most of the manufacturers using TI DMD’s are relatively small companies that lack the R&D resources that Epson, Sony and JVC have.

As for the screens, I suspect there might be at most three or four factories capable of making optical (Lenticular and or Fresnel type) screens. I’m sure that companies who contract these factories can spec certain things in order to keep costs down or ensure quality, still I doubt there is fundamentally any difference between most of them. I’ve seen several instances where diagrams, photos and pictures look literally identical from one brand to anther. This is called “white labeling” and is very common in many industries. For example I went to a commercial furniture expo once. It was huge, over a thousand booths. I would literally see the exact same chairs, tables, desks etc at dozens of different booths all the exact same only with different colors. I’m certain that Epson’s choice to bundle the screens is a way to offset cost of the projector. It’s like fast food, often they lose a few cents on each burger, then make it up with fries and soda’s.


----------



## z80b

Can anyone report on dark room viewing with this projector. Particularly contrast in darker scenes.
There is mention in the LG HU85 thread that dark room viewing experience was poor.


----------



## kalle4242

diggumsmax said:


> Thank you. it also looks like holding down that button gives you a lot more options for HDR content. I try to avoid the home screen at all costs. The apps are terrible, smart wall isn't something I'm interested in either. I've been using Alexa to switch inputs and power off.
> 
> I think my remote is messed up though because the middle top button turns off the projector just like the power button. According to the manual this is supposed to mute the speakers.
> 
> Edit: you can't change to any of the ISF settings. I'm wondering why
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk



Middle top Button: Mine is acting the same. I guess some update will fix that.

Completely agree with the Optoma UI and apps. Had some hope for the Infowall to use as a permanent screen (make use of the 20.000h lifetime), but its not really great.


----------



## Gae80uk

@z80b and another video captured that shows lights on/off performance with full leds on shading to darkness 

https://vimeo.com/367551323?ref=em-share


----------



## z80b

Thanks for the video.
Seems ok.


----------



## Kev1000000

z80b said:


> Can anyone report on dark room viewing with this projector. Particularly contrast in darker scenes.
> There is mention in the LG HU85 thread that dark room viewing experience was poor.


There are many factors that play into this. With the projector in Power Mode at 100%, the black floor is quite high, meaning most dark scenes will look grayish. The Dynamic Black modes are designed to cut light output to help with this, and it does work well (much better than a typical "high speed" iris), with the exception that I've seen worse color accuracy with DB modes enabled. My ALR screen is a super low gain (0.5), so I leave it on 100% power all of the time and my black floor is actually pretty dark, so if you have an ALR screen, the contrast in dark room is quite good.

All in all, with the right setup/settings, you're going to get the absolute best picture quality in the dark, no doubt. It doesn't quite match the Epson 5040 I had previously, but it's not _too_ far off. With the advantages the UST form factor brings, and the lenticular ALR screen, I prefer my new setup over my old*.



*Once Optoma fixes the input lag.


----------



## z80b

Thanks Kev
I’m planning on a lenticular screen from xy or elite screens.

What are folks using to put this on given the slightly longer throw than some UST projectors?


----------



## gollygosh

https://www.richersounds.com/tv-projectors/projectors/optoma-uhz65ust.html


----------



## copperfield74

Here a short clip on daylight


----------



## diggumsmax

z80b said:


> Thanks Kev
> 
> I’m planning on a lenticular screen from xy or elite screens.
> 
> 
> 
> What are folks using to put this on given the slightly longer throw than some UST projectors?


I would say throw distance is comparable to everything out there but the new LG. In one of the Elite CLR videos they are using last year's LG which is short throw, not UST. It's about the angle where the light is coming from. There may still be a great deal on the Elite Aeon CLR at projectorscreen.com .

Fresnel is expensive, I couldn't find a price on the XY one since they wouldn't ship just one screen. Fresnel is hard screen so it can't be folded so it is difficult and expensive to ship. While it handles ambient light better it's prone to hotspotting and gives of a glare similar to a regular display. The viewing angles is less then lenticular. The more I thought about it I decided lenticular was the route to go for me.

I've decided to go for the only option in between the XY/Elite, ect... and the high end SI and Da-lite. The Grandview DYNAMIQUE as it can actually resolve 4K pixels. They also make a 110 inch screen which is the perfect size for me. 100 and 120 are your only options outside the high end brands. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

diggumsmax said:


> It can do 80 inches. It will just be a bit closer to the wall. If your Xiaomi could do 80 inches then so will the P1. It's around 12 and half inches from the wall for a 100 screen on my P1 so I'm guessing around nine for 80. 80 is just an odd size screen which is why Optoma says 90 to 120. You will also get the benefit of increased lumens at that screen size. The LG might not be able to as it can do a 100 from around 3 1/2 inches.
> 
> I might be able to mess around with it later. What is the viewable (no borders) width and height of your screen correction n inches.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Hi could you let me know how far below the screen you have to position it for the 100 inch screen. Going by Optomas manual it’s looks like anything between 13.5 and 18 inches. Disappointed to see you need to have it 12.5 inches from the wall when the manual states 10...that’s a huge gap behind the av cabinet


----------



## diggumsmax

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> Hi could you let me know how far below the screen you have to position it for the 100 inch screen. Going by Optomas manual it’s looks like anything between 13.5 and 18 inches. Disappointed to see you need to have it 12.5 inches from the wall when the manual states 10...that’s a huge gap behind the av cabinet


I have already done this and it was either 16 or 16 and 1/2 inchs. I did my research and this is one thing I'm not happy about. Everyone said it's screen height * 0.24 so a 100 inches screen would just be under 12 inches. Yes, there was a note in the users manual about every projector havinf a slightly different offset due to chips (or something).

If you search this thread there is someone from Optoma saying it should be twelve inches for 100. People may get different results with the second batch and if people's do, I'll be sending mine back for a replacement. People were saying 20+ for 120. I was not planning on having to retrofit my current AV cabinet or get a new one. Now I have no choice. 4 and 1/2 inches is a lot based of what was advertised. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## J Bone

With having the Optoma P1 For over a week now I figured I would throw in my two cents. Overall I would give it a 4.5 out of 5. Picture quality is outstanding! Even when using an Nvidia shield to stream from a Plex server in an upstairs office of mine, everything in UHD but especially HDR looks outstanding. When using 4k UHD discs via my Panasonic UB820, I can definitely say this is more than a 5 out of 5! Aside from the numerous visual tweaks you can make with that disc player, the Optoma P1 has plenty internal options as well to make a great image. I do not notice any of the pixel shifting technology all except for through my HTPC on the small fonts. They do tend to look a bit cloudy and I have to move closer to really be able to read them. I have no devices hooked up directly to the projector. Everything is passed through a single HDMI cable from my Denon receiver. Since I have a full surround sound set up I cannot attest to the audio quality for the projector since I chose not to even test it.

With all its praise the only reason I decided to really dock it a half a point is for two reasons. 

The first is just some of the aforementioned bugs that have been going on. The split screen flickering, split screen color differential, and the hastily advertised input lag. I’m sure all this should be resolved in the near future with just a simple update throughout its use as to be expected with anything man-made electronics.

The other is the OS. The apps are really just bad. Even with all of its additional features that were well intended, I don’t find them to be very practical in their use. In theory the Info Wall is a great idea. If it were something you could put in a bedroom or in an office. But given the nature of this projector where it is meant for theater viewing and given it’s throw ratio I don’t for-see this being used when you wake up in the morning right next to your bed. The other is voice assistant ready. Again this is proposed to be completely capable of being operated through your voice but as I use Google assistant I can tell you this isn’t really convenient. For example just to turn off the projector you have to speak to Google Assistant and request the “Optoma Smart Projection” assistant, then if you say turn off the projector, it does not, it ask you for the name specifically assigned to the projector to turn it off, in my case I have to remember it’s dedicated name is “living room”. I was able to just resolve this by using my Google Assistant with my logitech hub to give a command to power off my projector instead.

All in all I can definitely say I am NOT regretful for my purchase. So far it has not been a disappointment. It has certainly delivered on the majority of its promises. Here in a moment I’ll be sharing some additional pictures with some of the things I think have come up in question. I.E. Lights On viewing, HDR content, SDR content, Entertainment set up, center channel placement, projector and screen measurements.


----------



## J Bone

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> Hi could you let me know how far below the screen you have to position it for the 100 inch screen. Going by Optomas manual it’s looks like anything between 13.5 and 18 inches. Disappointed to see you need to have it 12.5 inches from the wall when the manual states 10...that’s a huge gap behind the av cabinet




I have a 100 inch CLR screen and here are my approximate measurements both from the back of the projector to the wall which should also shave off an approximate 1 inch or so given the thickness of the screen from the wall. And from the top of my entertainment center to the bottom of the screen. The viewing angle was a little difficult to hold the measuring tape and take a picture at the same time. So to summarize I would say it’s about 11 1/2 inches from the back of the projector to the wall. And about 14 1/2 inches from the entertainment center to the bottom of the screen trim.










Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## J Bone

Here are the daytime worst case lighting scenario I could have w some SDR content....









Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## J Bone

Here's my general setup and speaker positions. Along with some off-axis viewing angle examples.

You'll also notice on the middle of the projector I had to adhere an infrared blaster to control with my Logitech Hub. This had to be done apparently because the IR receiver in the projector is such a tight viewing angle. Hopefully Optoma will update Logitech with their bluetooth remote codes for compatibility in the not too far future.









Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## J Bone

Lastly here is some HDR content. I tried to Snap photos of some of the darkest scenes I could visualize to be the worst viewing experience for all lights on or daytime viewing.

And again I would like to reiterate, this is the absolute worst case scenario that I have been able to find. Everything else looks quite stunning with the lights on or off.









Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## z80b

A lot of photos I've seen seem to have the image not filling the full screen, with gaps of a few centimetres. Are people doing this on purpose to avoid spill or something? Or is it just due to difficulty positioning the image?


----------



## J Bone

z80b said:


> A lot of photos I've seen seem to have the image not filling the full screen, with gaps of a few centimetres. Are people doing this on purpose to avoid spill or something? Or is it just due to difficulty positioning the image?


I'd say yes on both accounts. Mainly for myself is just to avoid the light spilling over the edges.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

z80b said:


> A lot of photos I've seen seem to have the image not filling the full screen, with gaps of a few centimetres. Are people doing this on purpose to avoid spill or something? Or is it just due to difficulty positioning the image?


Mine doesn't fit the screen due to where the bottom of the image is. Yes, these are extremely sensitive to not being level. As to why Optoma made the front feet adjustable while not make the back ones adjustable was a big mistake. Mine was just a bit lower in the back, causing some geometry issues. I had to use cardboard and put them under the back feet so the picture would be uniform. Centimeters really do matter with this thing. Below is from Optoma below in regards to the bottom of the image based of screen size. This is not what most are getting. The way I understand it is the image should be no more than 14.21 inches for a 100 inch screen. This is with the max offset of .05. 49 x 0.29 = 14.21 inches. Please correct me if my math is wrong regarding the offset. Also, is Optoma including the 1 inch 'border' you get that's unusable? I don't mind having it there as the bezels from a screen will block it. I just have a feeling optimas counting that one inch. See attached image. It's hard to see but it is there. . 

4. Offset - The offset for UST lens is larger than ST and Standard Throw. The offset for CinemaX P1 (listed on the website and datasheet) is 124%. Yes - the distance between the top of the projector and the bottom of the lens is large as UST lens is MORE complex than ST and Standard Throw -- has nothing do with the manufacturing process. The margin of -+5% is the nature of lenses (in general). 12" is what is expected for 100" image yet the 13" is within the 5% margin. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

J Bone said:


> With having the Optoma P1 For over a week now I figured I would throw in my two cents. Overall I would give it a 4.5 out of 5. Picture quality is outstanding! Even when using an Nvidia shield to stream from a Plex server in an upstairs office of mine, everything in UHD but especially HDR looks outstanding. When using 4k UHD discs via my Panasonic UB820, I can definitely say this is more than a 5 out of 5! Aside from the numerous visual tweaks you can make with that disc player, the Optoma P1 has plenty internal options as well to make a great image. I do not notice any of the pixel shifting technology all except for through my HTPC on the small fonts. They do tend to look a bit cloudy and I have to move closer to really be able to read them. I have no devices hooked up directly to the projector. Everything is passed through a single HDMI cable from my Denon receiver. Since I have a full surround sound set up I cannot attest to the audio quality for the projector since I chose not to even test it.
> 
> With all its praise the only reason I decided to really dock it a half a point is for two reasons.
> 
> The first is just some of the aforementioned bugs that have been going on. The split screen flickering, split screen color differential, and the hastily advertised input lag. I’m sure all this should be resolved in the near future with just a simple update throughout its use as to be expected with anything man-made electronics.
> 
> The other is the OS. The apps are really just bad. Even with all of its additional features that were well intended, I don’t find them to be very practical in their use. In theory the Info Wall is a great idea. If it were something you could put in a bedroom or in an office. But given the nature of this projector where it is meant for theater viewing and given it’s throw ratio I don’t for-see this being used when you wake up in the morning right next to your bed. The other is voice assistant ready. Again this is proposed to be completely capable of being operated through your voice but as I use Google assistant I can tell you this isn’t really convenient. For example just to turn off the projector you have to speak to Google Assistant and request the “Optoma Smart Projection” assistant, then if you say turn off the projector, it does not, it ask you for the name specifically assigned to the projector to turn it off, in my case I have to remember it’s dedicated name is “living room”. I was able to just resolve this by using my Google Assistant with my logitech hub to give a command to power off my projector instead.
> 
> All in all I can definitely say I am NOT regretful for my purchase. So far it has not been a disappointment. It has certainly delivered on the majority of its promises. Here in a moment I’ll be sharing some additional pictures with some of the things I think have come up in question. I.E. Lights On viewing, HDR content, SDR content, Entertainment set up, center channel placement, projector and screen measurements.


This pretty much summarizes my view of the P1 after a week and a half of having it. The HDR is amazing, finally got what all they hype was about. The attached image doesn't come close to the detail with your own eyes a foot away from the screen. Please note I have not gotten an ALR screen so I know it'll only get better, particular with some Ambien light. Right now in the dark this thing is amazing. Luckily the P1 works great with Alexa. 

The input lag and where the bottom of the image sits are my main two issues. I don't know if they input lag can be improved via firmware update but I hope so. The Xiaomi has 110ms as well based off my research. This may be due to the the technology. Someone a few posts above explained the difference for LCD versus DLP is regards to lag. .









Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

diggumsmax said:


> Mine doesn't fit the screen due to where the bottom of the image is. Yes, these are extremely sensitive to not being level. As to why Optoma made the front feet adjustable while not make the back ones adjustable was a big mistake. Mine was just a bit lower in the back, causing some geometry issues. I had to use cardboard and put them under the back feet so the picture would be uniform. Centimeters really do matter with this thing. Below is from Optoma below in regards to the bottom of the image based of screen size. This is not what most are getting. The way I understand it is the image should be no more than 14.21 inches for a 100 inch screen. This is with the max offset of .05. 49 x 0.29 = 14.21 inches. Please correct me if my math is wrong regarding the offset. Also, is Optoma including the 1 inch 'border' you get that's unusable? I don't mind having it there as the bezels from a screen will block it. I just have a feeling optimas counting that one inch. See attached image. It's hard to see but it is there. .
> 
> 4. Offset - The offset for UST lens is larger than ST and Standard Throw. The offset for CinemaX P1 (listed on the website and datasheet) is 124%. Yes - the distance between the top of the projector and the bottom of the lens is large as UST lens is MORE complex than ST and Standard Throw -- has nothing do with the manufacturing process. The margin of -+5% is the nature of lenses (in general). 12" is what is expected for 100" image yet the 13" is within the 5% margin.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


This is taken from the UHZ65 UST (European model) which I am presuming is pretty much the same when it comes to these things.










Basing thing on a 100 inch screen the "L0" measurement is the distance from the back of the projector to the wall...in this case 256.2mm which is *10.08* inches

The "A Offset" is from the bottom of the projector to the bottom of the screen and has three different tolerance levels, let's say they are best case scenario to worst case scenario. Those measurements are: 350.7mm (*13.81* inches) , 381.8mm (*15.03* inches) 456.5mm (*17.97* inches)

So we are looking at *10.08* inches from the wall with a worst case of *17.97* inches below the screen.

J Bones measurements of "11 1/2 inches from the back of the projector to the wall. And about 14 1/2 inches from the bottom of the screen" seem to be pretty much in line with the tolerance levels mentioned above. The extra 1 1/2 inches from the wall is a bit annoying though.

diggumsmax measurements of just under "12 inches from the back of the projector to the all, and around 16 1/2 inches from the bottom of the screen" again the 16 1/2 fits in with the max offset tolerance of just under 18 inches. 

The only issues I see are the 1 1/2 to 2 inches extra needed from the back of the wall.


----------



## Jan L

Knolly said:


> I received my Optoma P1 and am going to set it up alongside my Xiaomi A300 for some really basic comparison shots tonight. Aside from that and input lag is there anything anyone would like me to check out while I have both set up?



Hi,


I was hoping to find your promised comparison and can understand thats a hassle and you problably just wanna play around with your new optoma instead of comparing them etc for the community  But still.... can you tell me something about it? Is it similar? Totally different? 



I even have the first xiaomi 1080p projector for almost 2 years now... and all the videos / images and screenshots dont look really much better than mine ... maybe SLIGHTLY (sharpness is indeed better) but with 4k content and 3-5 meters viewing distance, thats no 3000$ worth of upgrade so far. My only update reason would be the input lag...which seems to be even worse than xiaomi  I got 50-75ms on mine now.



Maybe a direct comparison could help me to see the real benefit of upgrading...to me all vava, xiaomi, optoma look the same on those youtube videos..it all depends on the camera and light  Im realllllly wondering why no one is actually comparing side by side or offer real videos for their products in which they show the picture under perfect circumenstances.. but no, you have to buy it to see it for yourself.



All the impressions like "amazing, outstanding...pure joy" seem to come from people which never had ust projectors? Mine on my 120" inch alr get still mistaken for a huge tv during bright day time




Thanks!


----------



## Knolly

Jan L said:


> Hi,
> 
> 
> I was hoping to find your promised comparison and can understand thats a hassle and you problably just wanna play around with your new optoma instead of comparing them etc for the community  But still.... can you tell me something about it? Is it similar? Totally different?
> 
> 
> 
> I even have the first xiaomi 1080p projector for almost 2 years now... and all the videos / images and screenshots dont look really much better than mine ... maybe SLIGHTLY (sharpness is indeed better) but with 4k content and 3-5 meters viewing distance, thats no 3000$ worth of upgrade so far. My only update reason would be the input lag...which seems to be even worse than xiaomi  I got 50-75ms on mine now.
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe a direct comparison could help me to see the real benefit of upgrading...to me all vava, xiaomi, optoma look the same on those youtube videos..it all depends on the camera and light  Im realllllly wondering why no one is actually comparing side by side or offer real videos for their products in which they show the picture under perfect circumenstances.. but no, you have to buy it to see it for yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> All the impressions like "amazing, outstanding...pure joy" seem to come from people which never had ust projectors? Mine on my 120" inch alr get still mistaken for a huge tv during bright day time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


I actually posted and then deleted my comparison because I saw the PHC did a much more thorough and scientific review of both units. P1 here, A300 here.

I unboxed my P1, used it for about 20 minutes, then put it back in the box and am currently figuring out what to do with it.

The short version:
- Input lag definitely better on Xiaomi
- Optoma is physically HUGE in comparison to the Xiaomi
- Optoma has better built in sound by a mile
- No discernible difference in brightness
- Offset is larger on the Optoma, so image is higher up
- Without calibrating colors or anything, Optoma appears to have whiter whites, but I also am garbage at tuning the picture so unsure how much of this I can give to the projector

Truth be told I likely would have kept the Optoma, but the physical size and offset was a big issue for me. My installation is just very sensitive to that since I'm currently trying to lower the image on the screen by sinking my projector down into my media console, and with the Optoma it wouldn't be an option due to physical size. If not for those two issues I would have kept the Optoma for the ease of use/better local support, but I wouldn't say the image was drastically better.

Some photos:

























A note on the last image: The Optoma looks MUCH sharper here, but I think it's deceptive. The Xiaomi has automatic focus whereas the Optoma is manual. I believe the Xiaomi was locking on and focusing on the wall behind the screen rather than the screen itself, hence the difference in sharpness.


----------



## rayons

Hi.

I'm canvasing opinions on the Dell S718QL?
P1 has been on my list for a while and then I saw the S718QL for less, but there are very few reviews.


----------



## pepeto2001

rayons said:


> Hi.
> 
> I'm canvasing opinions on the Dell S718QL?
> P1 has been on my list for a while and then I saw the S718QL for less, but there are very few reviews.





I dont think you are going to get better images in any sense with any other projector than your dell....
In fact, I'm thinking about upgrading my Optoma HZ40UST 4000 lumens 1080p projector to a 4k one, but the image looks so good at 95 inches and 3 meters away that I tend to think that it's impossible a 4K projector will look noticiable better...


----------



## tambur123

rayons said:


> Hi.
> 
> I'm canvasing opinions on the Dell S718QL?
> P1 has been on my list for a while and then I saw the S718QL for less, but there are very few reviews.


I assume Dell has worse contrast and colorimetry since it's not even marketed as a cinema projector ... but I might be wrong.


----------



## freejak13

J Bone said:


> Lastly here is some HDR content. I tried to Snap photos of some of the darkest scenes I could visualize to be the worst viewing experience for all lights on or daytime viewing.
> 
> And again I would like to reiterate, this is the absolute worst case scenario that I have been able to find. Everything else looks quite stunning with the lights on or off.


Mind sharing what tv stand you're using? Thanks.


----------



## klas

Knolly said:


> I actually posted and then deleted my comparison because I saw the PHC did a much more thorough and scientific review of both units. P1 here, A300 here.
> 
> I unboxed my P1, used it for about 20 minutes, then put it back in the box and am currently figuring out what to do with it.
> 
> The short version:
> - Input lag definitely better on Xiaomi
> - Optoma is physically HUGE in comparison to the Xiaomi
> - Optoma has better built in sound by a mile
> - No discernible difference in brightness
> - Offset is larger on the Optoma, so image is higher up
> - Without calibrating colors or anything, Optoma appears to have whiter whites, but I also am garbage at tuning the picture so unsure how much of this I can give to the projector
> 
> Truth be told I likely would have kept the Optoma, but the physical size and offset was a big issue for me. My installation is just very sensitive to that since I'm currently trying to lower the image on the screen by sinking my projector down into my media console, and with the Optoma it wouldn't be an option due to physical size. If not for those two issues I would have kept the Optoma for the ease of use/better local support, but I wouldn't say the image was drastically better.
> 
> 
> A note on the last image: The Optoma looks MUCH sharper here, but I think it's deceptive. The Xiaomi has automatic focus whereas the Optoma is manual. I believe the Xiaomi was locking on and focusing on the wall behind the screen rather than the screen itself, hence the difference in sharpness.


Omg, I knew it would be larger, but that's really huge. It's odd that it's not brighter and the fact that you found builtin sound better on Optoma then Xiaomi when PHC said the opposite. How about noise/whine comparison? Anyway, to me doesn't sound it's worth the big difference in cost to go with Optoma at this point


----------



## jefferey13

Knolly said:


> I unboxed my P1, used it for about 20 minutes, then put it back in the box and am currently figuring out what to do with it.


Well if you ever just need to get rid of it, I would maybe be interested.


----------



## Tuan

kalle4242 said:


> Middle top Button: Mine is acting the same. I guess some update will fix that.
> 
> Completely agree with the Optoma UI and apps. Had some hope for the Infowall to use as a permanent screen (make use of the 20.000h lifetime), but its not really great.


The middle button puts the projector into Bluetooth Speaker mode, which puts it into standby with a flashing white LED. It's a feature.


----------



## diggumsmax

klas said:


> Omg, I knew it would be larger, but that's really huge. It's odd that it's not brighter and the fact that you found builtin sound better on Optoma then Xiaomi when PHC said the opposite. How about noise/whine comparison? Anyway, to me doesn't sound it's worth the big difference in cost to go with Optoma at this point


While I haven't personally seen the Xiaomi, I just have piece of mind with the 3 year warranty from Optoma. I'm unsure what the warranty is on the Xiaomi here in the states considering it's not available through any authorized re seller's that I am aware of. What kind of warranty do you get with the Xiaomi? I know from other posts it can take a month or longer to get it fixed and you have to pay for shipping to and from China. Color wheels can go out on DLP projectors. Not saying they will but they are prone to breaking/stop working. 

I would love to see a shoot out of John Wick 3 on both. That is by far the best HDR movie I have seen yet. That and a nature documentary.


----------



## diggumsmax

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> This is taken from the UHZ65 UST (European model) which I am presuming is pretty much the same when it comes to these things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basing thing on a 100 inch screen the "L0" measurement is the distance from the back of the projector to the wall...in this case 256.2mm which is *10.08* inches
> 
> The "A Offset" is from the bottom of the projector to the bottom of the screen and has three different tolerance levels, let's say they are best case scenario to worst case scenario. Those measurements are: 350.7mm (*13.81* inches) , 381.8mm (*15.03* inches) 456.5mm (*17.97* inches)
> 
> So we are looking at *10.08* inches from the wall with a worst case of *17.97* inches below the screen.
> 
> J Bones measurements of "11 1/2 inches from the back of the projector to the wall. And about 14 1/2 inches from the bottom of the screen" seem to be pretty much in line with the tolerance levels mentioned above. The extra 1 1/2 inches from the wall is a bit annoying though.
> 
> diggumsmax measurements of just under "12 inches from the back of the projector to the all, and around 16 1/2 inches from the bottom of the screen" again the 16 1/2 fits in with the max offset tolerance of just under 18 inches.
> 
> The only issues I see are the 1 1/2 to 2 inches extra needed from the back of the wall.


While it's 100% my fault for not paying as much attention to the manual as I should of, when you have posters from Optoma telling you something you tend to believe it. Below is from post #1219 . The minimum distance from surface the projector is sitting on to the bottom of the image is 13.8"s going by the diagram you posted with the -2.5% margin, 15.03 inches with no margin, and 17.97 inches for the highest margin for a 100 inch screen. People had been saying for months that is was 0.24 x screen height. While the offset was in the manual I was not expecting a five inch difference based of what Optoma had posted (11.76). It seems like it's going to be very hit or miss. If you have to get an RMA, you could find yourself having to remount the screen lower (lucky) or higher then for your previous one. 13 inch stands aren't feasible. I don't think I could even fit my amp and receiving in something that short. This is my current dilemma because based off all the measurements I did before I got the projector, you can see why I was surprised at the difference of what was advertised. Now I find myself having to figure out what to do for a cabinet a I thought my current one would be just fine. 


_The diagram in the *installation guide will be corrected (shortly)* but regardless, to determine the distance from top of the projector to bottom of screen -- 0.24 x the height of the image (0.24x49). If the image is 100" diag - the offset is 11.76". Keep in mind that the margin is +6% and - 2.5%.

As for the throw distance (100" as an example), it can VARY depending on whether SmartFIT is used or not. 100" is roughly 10.5 to 10.75" (give or take) to the projection surface (wall or screen) - no SmartFIT. With SmartFIT (as the projector must be further back) - it can reach 11.75" to 12.5" as the projector must be further back to use the feature. PLEASE remember that the margin can also be up to -+5%.

Please, remember that 100" and 120" is diagonal and not width (just a small reminder).

For Stand Height -- we recommend less than 20". For my demo units, my Stand is 13".
_


----------



## kthejoker20

Without reading the entire thread, is this thing available yet to buy?

If not, what's the release date?

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## klas

diggumsmax said:


> While I haven't personally seen the Xiaomi, I just have piece of mind with the 3 year warranty from Optoma. I'm unsure what the warranty is on the Xiaomi here in the states considering it's not available through any authorized re seller's that I am aware of. What kind of warranty do you get with the Xiaomi? I know from other posts it can take a month or longer to get it fixed and you have to pay for shipping to and from China. Color wheels can go out on DLP projectors. Not saying they will but they are prone to breaking/stop working.
> 
> I would love to see a shoot out of John Wick 3 on both. That is by far the best HDR movie I have seen yet. That and a nature documentary.


Personally I care about warranty only for cars, warranty on electronics has been useless. Chances of something failing during the warranty period has been like winning a lottery for me. Aside from that what I gathered Optoma has advantage in noise handling while Xiaomi has advantage in price and dimensions. I guess making unit larger makes it easier to deal with noise by using larger fans and better cooling. I do would like less noise in Xiaomi, but if it's much cheaper... Both units lack in built-in software and would require using external streaming device. Reading mixed reports on which one has better built-in speaker, but I do like the built-in soundbar on mine for most uses it works great.


----------



## g4s

klas said:


> Omg, I knew it would be larger, but that's really huge. It's odd that it's not brighter and the fact that you found builtin sound better on Optoma then Xiaomi when PHC said the opposite. How about noise/whine comparison? Anyway, to me doesn't sound it's worth the big difference in cost to go with Optoma at this point


I enjoyed your rationalization. To me, I've had good performance from other Optoma projectors. I do like having a few years warranty on something with moving parts like this. The only experience I have with Xiaomi is a small 30$ bluetooth speaker. It sounds OK. 
This P1 I have here is really silent, zero coil whine. There's 4 large exhaust fans.
Your right though, an extra $1000 or so may not be worth it to some people. To me it is.


----------



## Jan L

Knolly said:


> I actually posted and then deleted my comparison because I saw the PHC did a much more thorough and scientific review of both units.
> 
> I unboxed my P1, used it for about 20 minutes, then put it back in the box and am currently figuring out what to do with it.
> 
> The short version:
> - Input lag definitely better on Xiaomi
> - Optoma is physically HUGE in comparison to the Xiaomi
> - Optoma has better built in sound by a mile
> - No discernible difference in brightness
> - Offset is larger on the Optoma, so image is higher up
> - Without calibrating colors or anything, Optoma appears to have whiter whites, but I also am garbage at tuning the picture so unsure how much of this I can give to the projector
> 
> Truth be told I likely would have kept the Optoma, but the physical size and offset was a big issue for me. My installation is just very sensitive to that since I'm currently trying to lower the image on the screen by sinking my projector down into my media console, and with the Optoma it wouldn't be an option due to physical size. If not for those two issues I would have kept the Optoma for the ease of use/better local support, but I wouldn't say the image was drastically better.
> 
> Some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A note on the last image: The Optoma looks MUCH sharper here, but I think it's deceptive. The Xiaomi has automatic focus whereas the Optoma is manual. I believe the Xiaomi was locking on and focusing on the wall behind the screen rather than the screen itself, hence the difference in sharpness.



You are my hero. An honest opinion was what I needed....


I agree, the A300 looks much better / smaller like a little ps4 pro and I also already have a "workaround" kinda solution for mine and would love just to replace that with another xiaomi product. So lets see whats up in the next xiaomi projector product circle beginning of next year.... maybe new chip, native 4k who knows  So im gonna skip that round and thank you for your feedback!


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

Knolly said:


> Some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A note on the last image: The Optoma looks MUCH sharper here, but I think it's deceptive. The Xiaomi has automatic focus whereas the Optoma is manual. I believe the Xiaomi was locking on and focusing on the wall behind the screen rather than the screen itself, hence the difference in sharpness.


Thanks for posting these comparisons, to me the Xiaomi looks way less accurate than the Optoma. The colours seem overblown (like having VIVID set on a tv for example), whites do not look white, the blues, greens and reds are not comparable.

Maybe the Xiaomi can be tweaked to sort this out and make them closer, but from that particular photo there is only one winner and by a considerable margin.


----------



## klas

g4s said:


> klas said:
> 
> 
> 
> Omg, I knew it would be larger, but that's really huge. It's odd that it's not brighter and the fact that you found builtin sound better on Optoma then Xiaomi when PHC said the opposite. How about noise/whine comparison? Anyway, to me doesn't sound it's worth the big difference in cost to go with Optoma at this point
> 
> 
> 
> I enjoyed your rationalization. To me, I've had good performance from other Optoma projectors. I do like having a few years warranty on something with moving parts like this. The only experience I have with Xiaomi is a small 30$ bluetooth speaker. It sounds OK.
> This P1 I have here is really silent, zero coil whine. There's 4 large exhaust fans.
> Your right though, an extra $1000 or so may not be worth it to some people. To me it is.
Click to expand...

Quietness of P1 is totally awesome. Price difference aside. I am mainly put off by its footprint. It's not something you can mount and out of the way so if you have small space it will be an eye sore in the center of the room for me with it being 30" from the wall and on the floor for 120". 

I am not completely crossing P1 off my shopping list either as I am considering to get it at some point for 90" size in another spot which would replace my TV where I don't want noisy Xiaomi for that purpose.


----------



## Knolly

kthejoker20 said:


> Without reading the entire thread, is this thing available yet to buy?
> 
> If not, what's the release date?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


Already released but currently sold out until at least late November per retailers.

There may or may not be one available and ready to ship in the sales section of AVSForums.


----------



## TimHuey

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> Thanks for posting these comparisons, to me the Xiaomi looks way less accurate than the Optoma. The colours seem overblown (like having VIVID set on a tv for example), whites do not look white, the blues, greens and reds are not comparable.
> 
> Maybe the Xiaomi can be tweaked to sort this out and make them closer, but from that particular photo there is only one winner and by a considerable margin.


Yeah, that picture is so good I wish he had spent more time composing it. That's a very very big help. And a marketing dream for the P1. Which sux for me because I've basically eliminated the P1 on so many counts.


----------



## klas

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> Thanks for posting these comparisons, to me the Xiaomi looks way less accurate than the Optoma. The colours seem overblown (like having VIVID set on a tv for example), whites do not look white, the blues, greens and reds are not comparable.
> 
> Maybe the Xiaomi can be tweaked to sort this out and make them closer, but from that particular photo there is only one winner and by a considerable margin.


I don't see any big difference in this low quality image and yes you can tweak to colors in Xiaomi to make it less vivid, by default I found it too saturated.


----------



## Gae80uk

Hey guys, as promised another video showing Optoma P1/UHZ65UST HDR amazing performance with and without lights + solid sound.


https://vimeo.com/368120842?ref=em-share

Hopefully here in UK there is stock and might pull the trigger quite soon...not sure can make until Black Friday!


----------



## jbl_lvr

z80b said:


> I found another comparison at https://www.hometheaterforum.com/community/posts/4792431/
> 
> The comparison noted the following;
> 
> LG HU85LA advantages:
> Big advantage to LG’s HU85LA on the UST distance, e.g. for a 120” 16:9 screen the P1 needs to be placed 14.5” from the screen.
> The HU85LA blacks are deeper and have more shadow detail vs. Optoma’s P1 that lacks low luminance detail and suffers from elevated blacks.
> The HU85LA delivered a sharper more detailed image. I assume this is due to the better quality lens and better TI .66 chip set and superior video processing. Up-conversion is cleaner, 4K HDR disc playback is also sharper than the Optoma P1. The HU85LA delivers a more dynamic tonal range.
> Moderately better color accuracy and color volume on the HU85LA.
> 4 adjustable feet to help square the image on the screen. The P1 is limited to two back feet.
> The HU85LA has a better software app for keystone adjustments.
> Input lag is much faster on the HU85LA at about 60ms vs. about 120ms on the P1.
> The HU85LA has QAM and OTA built-in decoders and a better web OS operating and Smart interface.
> 
> Optoma CinemaX P1 advantages:
> Of course, the most obvious advantage is the lower cost at $3,299 UPP for the P1, vs. the MSRP of $5,999 for the HU85LA. The MSRP of Optoma's CinemaX P1 is also $5,999, but they set a UPP at $3,299. LG has not officially announced a UPP price.
> 3D capable with optional 3D active glasses.
> I did not measure the peak and minimal luminance levels, but the P1 appeared brighter.
> Better built-in speaker/audio system.





Gae80uk said:


> Hey guys, as promised another video showing Optoma P1/UHZ65UST HDR amazing performance with and without lights + solid sound.
> 
> 
> https://vimeo.com/368120842?ref=em-share
> 
> Hopefully here in UK there is stock and might pull the trigger quite soon...not sure can make until Black Friday!


bleed looks good? Anyone test this out in the dark?


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

Gae80uk said:


> Hey guys, as promised another video showing Optoma P1/UHZ65UST HDR amazing performance with and without lights + solid sound.
> 
> 
> https://vimeo.com/368120842?ref=em-share
> 
> Hopefully here in UK there is stock and might pull the trigger quite soon...not sure can make until Black Friday!


I just cannot make my mind up on what to go for, did the measurements(for about the millionth time!) and concluded that a gap of 12 and half inches from the wall combined with the depth of it (to make a total of 27 and a half inches) is just not doable. If I pull my AV furniture out that far the gap at the back just looks plain stupid. The height part (max 18 inches) I can cope with but not that much of a gap....maybe I need to look at an extra wide AV Rack...

So decided I am going for the LG HU85LA (risky but can get it for about £600 more on ebay).....4 inches from the wall I can cope with, without it making the AV rack look like I forgot to push it against the wall! However just re-reading the reviews on it....and it's put me off it again!

So frustrating that Optoma could not nail the distance from the wall and decided to make a monster size projector, I cannot think of many people that need or will use the built in soundbar.


----------



## golcarfel

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> I just cannot make my mind up on what to go for, did the measurements(for about the millionth time!) and concluded that a gap of 12 and half inches from the wall combined with the depth of it (to make a total of 27 and a half inches) is just not doable. If I pull my AV furniture out that far the gap at the back just looks plain stupid. The height part (max 18 inches) I can cope with but not that much of a gap....maybe I need to look at an extra wide AV Rack...
> 
> So decided I am going for the LG HU85LA (risky but can get it for about £600 more on ebay).....4 inches from the wall I can cope with, without it making the AV rack look like I forgot to push it against the wall! However just re-reading the reviews on it....and it's put me off it again!
> 
> So frustrating that Optoma could not nail the distance from the all and decided to make a monster size projector, I cannot think of many people that need or will use the built in soundbar.


I was on the same boat as you. The distance required from the wall was far to big for my liking. I ended up ordering the LG HU85LA and will be getting it tomorrow. Most of the reviews that I read said that it was the better of the two (but not by $3000). But the deciding factor for me was the distance required to the wall.


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

golcarfel said:


> I was on the same boat as you. The distance required from the wall was far to big for my liking. I ended up ordering the LG HU85LA and will be getting it tomorrow. Most of the reviews that I read said that it was the better of the two (but not by $3000). But the deciding factor for me was the distance required to the wall.


Be very interested to get your opinion on it, I need to read more reviews but I was basing my assessment on this one: https://www.passionhomecinema.fr/blog/index.php/28/08/2019/test-lg-hu85la-lavis-de-gregory/


----------



## Gae80uk

@ianmclaughlin I know, it's a beast (but a nice design one) and it's not the best for distance to projector...I believe the dimensions are due to the bigger fans that make this pj ultra silent and the amazing sound part. 

Spending £600 for the LG sounds like a deal breaker but what if after 2-3 weeks it stops working properly? You send back to Korea a £4.000 machine? 

Dustance and size can be fixed, 3-6 years warranty cannot


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

Gae80uk said:


> @ianmclaughlin I know, it's a beast (but a nice design one) and it's not the best for distance to projector...I believe the dimensions are due to the bigger fans that make this pj ultra silent and the amazing sound part.
> 
> Spending £600 for the LG sounds like a deal breaker but what if after 2-3 weeks it stops working properly? You send back to Korea a £4.000 machine?
> 
> Dustance and size can be fixed, 3-6 years warranty cannot


Yes agreed! I wonder if LG will release in UK, would make life a lot easier with regards support. Don't get me wrong I want the Optoma, would pre-order it today but have not worked out how to fit it and make it look part of the living room. Will keep on going over permutations and looking at av furniture


----------



## Gae80uk

Well I got a nice new desk/coffee table with extended shelf which goes from 38cm to 76cm when fully open.

That should do mate!


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

Gae80uk said:


> Well I got a nice new desk/coffee table with extended shelf which goes from 38cm to 76cm when fully open.
> 
> That should do mate!


Yeah I think around 71cm is the max you should need to cover things, any links? Hadn't even considered that option. Will google but nice to see different options. Thanks


EDIT - something along the lines of this will probably do: https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/hemnes-coffee-table-black-brown-10176292/ 

Projector on the top shelf, centre speaker in the middle. Actually not a bad call, would be even better if the back was not open, maybe some DIY is called for! I feel a bit more confident I can find something that fits in with my current av furniture...


----------



## Gae80uk

Well posted some links few pages before...but have a look at these (I got the second one in white)

coffee table 
https://www.groupon.co.uk/deals/storage-coffee-table

extended desk
https://www.homedone.co.uk/new-nexus-modern-extending-console-table-2-drawers-writing-study-desk-units-17075.html


----------



## ProjectionHead

Knolly said:


> Already released but currently sold out until at least late November per retailers.
> 
> There may or may not be one available and ready to ship in the sales section of AVSForums.


They will be at select specialty retailers the beginning of November, possibly by the 8th.


----------



## bix26

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> Be very interested to get your opinion on it, I need to read more reviews but I was basing my assessment on this one: https://www.passionhomecinema.fr/blog/index.php/28/08/2019/test-lg-hu85la-lavis-de-gregory/




I really like passionhomecinema.fr but honestly, I think he may have had a poor sample. Also, I think his review was a bit skewed based on the LG’s price relative to other brands. Now that the LG has had a substantial price reduction I think it’s fair to say his critique may have been overly harsh. Here are a few reviews from some equally respected websites.


https://hometheaterhifi.com/reviews...ultra-short-throw-laser-projector-review/amp/


https://www.projectorcentral.com/LG-HU85LA-4K-UST-Laser-Projector-Review.htm


----------



## tambur123

bix26 said:


> I really like passionhomecinema.fr but honestly, I think he may have had a poor sample. Also, I think his review was a bit skewed based on the LG’s price relative to other brands. Now that the LG has had a substantial price reduction I think it’s fair to say his critique may have been overly harsh. Here are a few reviews from some equally respected websites.
> 
> 
> https://hometheaterhifi.com/reviews...ultra-short-throw-laser-projector-review/amp/
> 
> 
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/LG-HU85LA-4K-UST-Laser-Projector-Review.htm


Probably the EU version is better than LG, because it has been confirmed that it has better contrast and brightness.


----------



## Gae80uk

@bix26 I get your point and believe the new LG is a great projector...but there is no price reduction in Europe where the price is stuck to €5.999...only cheaper option is to buy it straight from Korea via Ebay with no warranty. So 45% more expensive than Optoma but above all, what if anything happens to the pj? 

When and if its price goes down in the €3-4k span, then we will be able to have a strong alternative. 

Unless someone has got £6.000 in his pocket and just wanna buy it, of course go for it!


----------



## Kev1000000

Anyone else find Optoma's silence a bit concerning? The two reps in this thread were pretty active leading up to the launch of the unit, and now that we've identified issues with input lag, half of the screen bugging out, and other issues with the FW, we have heard almost nothing.

I'd love to get an update that these issues are going to be addressed or not in a FW update, as I want to know what I should do in terms of switching to another unit or holding out for updates.


----------



## TTBear

bix26 said:


> Now that the LG has had a substantial price reduction I think it’s fair to say his critique may have been overly harsh.


Can you elaborate on this price reduction for the LG, please? I can't find information regarding a reduction, anywhere?

Thanks!


----------



## Brandon Blackwell

What about using the P1 in a dedicated theater space (suspended slab), ceiling-mounted so it's virtually impossible to walk in front of...is this doable? I'm thinking this would eliminate the worry of it being in the "middle" of the floor to achieve a 120" image. Thoughts would be appreciated!


----------



## Casey_Bryson

@Brandon Blackwell...GO COUGS!

I know the Xiaomi/Fengmi/and A300 can be ceiling mounted but you lose one of the best features: using a CLR screen. I was concerned about having a projector sit out that far too, but after building a console that minimizes the depth It's not really a concern, but I don't have small children. Mine are 9 and up.

Since it's been brought up a lot recently and a common struggle with UST's...here's my setup (around $180 in parts) with a projector base big enough for the P1 too.


----------



## ProjectionHead

TTBear said:


> Can you elaborate on this price reduction for the LG, please? I can't find information regarding a reduction, anywhere?
> 
> Thanks!


lol, I'd like to learn about this price reduction as well....


----------



## ProjectionHead

Brandon Blackwell said:


> What about using the P1 in a dedicated theater space (suspended slab), ceiling-mounted so it's virtually impossible to walk in front of...is this doable? I'm thinking this would eliminate the worry of it being in the "middle" of the floor to achieve a 120" image. Thoughts would be appreciated!


yes, it can be ceiling mounted (options in settings for table/ceiling and front/rear) but I do not know of what mount will work with it yet


----------



## klas

Casey_Bryson said:


> @Brandon Blackwell...GO COUGS!
> 
> I know the Xiaomi/Fengmi/and A300 can be ceiling mounted but you lose one of the best features: using a CLR screen. I was concerned about having a projector sit out that far too, but after building a console that minimizes the depth It's not really a concern, but I don't have small children. Mine are 9 and up.
> 
> Since it's been brought up a lot recently and a common struggle with UST's...here's my setup (around $180 in parts) with a projector base big enough for the P1 too.


Looks nice and this is perfect example where distance from the wall doesn't matter, unfortunately not my case


----------



## klas

TTBear said:


> Can you elaborate on this price reduction for the LG, please? I can't find information regarding a reduction, anywhere?
> 
> Thanks!


It must've been in his dreams


----------



## bix26

Gae80uk said:


> @bix26 I get your point and believe the new LG is a great projector...but there is no price reduction in Europe where the price is stuck to €5.999...only cheaper option is to buy it straight from Korea via Ebay with no warranty. So 45% more expensive than Optoma but above all, what if anything happens to the pj?
> 
> 
> 
> When and if its price goes down in the €3-4k span, then we will be able to have a strong alternative.
> 
> 
> 
> Unless someone has got £6.000 in his pocket and just wanna buy it, of course go for it!




Nothing official, the MSRP is still $5,999. Per forum rules I won’t talk “street prices”. I don’t want to be misunderstood I think both projectors are priced reasonably considering their advantages/disadvantages.


----------



## Casepb

I read a comment on Projector Central that UST projectors are incredibly tough to line up right with a wooden frame and they are best matched with metal frames. Something about pincushion distortion. I have a wooden frame that I made a few years back and so far I've only used short throw projectors on it and they look fine to me. I have maybe a slight angle at the top right of the image is all. Should I expect this distortion with the CinemaX P1? Is there a setting to fix this type of distortion with this projector?


----------



## diggumsmax

Casepb said:


> I read a comment on Projector Central that UST projectors are incredibly tough to line up right with a wooden frame and they are best matched with metal frames. Something about pincushion distortion. I have a wooden frame that I made a few years back and so far I've only used short throw projectors on it and they look fine to me. I have maybe a slight angle at the top right of the image is all. Should I expect this distortion with the CinemaX P1? Is there a setting to fix this type of distortion with this projector?


I don't think it's due to it being wooden frame. They just have to be completely flat which is why most have springs. I've noticed some slight distortion at the top of my screen which is wooden frame non ALR. I never noticed it on my standard throw projector so it does stick out more when using UST. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Gae80uk

Hi guys, had a chat with Optoma UK and about *input lag*:

did anyone try to turn off Warp Control and Puremotion together? 
It should help to reduce the lag 

Let us know!


----------



## copperfield74

Gae80uk said:


> Hi guys, had a chat with Optoma UK and about *input lag*:
> 
> did anyone try to turn off Warp Control and Puremotion together?
> It should help to reduce the lag
> 
> Let us know!


 A lot people already tried switching off those settings.
It's not a good sign if they still try to get us going down that road instead of tweaking the firmware.


----------



## bennutt

Gae80uk said:


> Hi guys, had a chat with Optoma UK and about *input lag*:
> 
> 
> 
> did anyone try to turn off Warp Control and Puremotion together?
> 
> It should help to reduce the lag
> 
> 
> 
> Let us know!




This was from one of the early spec sheets (and is still online at projectorscreen.com)
Input Response:

55ms (4K UHD, 60 Hz, Game Mode)
SmartFIT and PureMotion must be disabled for Game Mode.

That is when I pressed pause on my purchase.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Kdub69

I’ve had the p1 for over 2 weeks now been playing nhl 20 online on game mode with the other pure motion and app disabled and I can tell you I can’t feel the lag at all. Good news however I don’t have a ps4 pro so its just a regular ps4 hope this helps


----------



## Casepb

Kdub69 said:


> I’ve had the p1 for over 2 weeks now been playing nhl 20 online on game mode with the other pure motion and app disabled and I can tell you I can’t feel the lag at all. Good news however I don’t have a ps4 pro so its just a regular ps4 hope this helps


If you leave the geometry correction enabled how bad is it? I never play console games online so I'm not worried about that. Wondering mostly for single player experiences that don't require lightning fast reflexes.


----------



## copperfield74

This is my first UST and the alignment (without key stone) is a pain in the a**! :-D
So what are the secret tipps from UST veterans trying to align it without keystoning?
What's the first step?
Today I saw that my screen is to high. Even by raising my pj with some coasters I wasn't able to have the bottom black be shown on the screen.
This will be fixed by lowering the screen a few cm.


----------



## g4s

copperfield74 said:


> This is my first UST and the alignment (without key stone) is a pain in the a**! :-D
> So what are the secret tipps from UST veterans trying to align it without keystoning?
> What's the first step?
> Today I saw that my screen is to high. Even by raising my pj with some coasters I wasn't able to have the bottom black be shown on the screen.
> This will be fixed by lowering the screen a few cm.


I can tell you how I set mine up. First I set the projector on the stand sitting level and moved it around until the image on the wall measured 59" tall. (the height of a 120" 16:9 image) Then I measured the distance from the floor to the top of the image. Marked the top of the image with masking tape. From there I marked the location of the brackets for the screen. Hung the screen, then moved the projector around and made small adjustments to the feet until it filled the screen. My screen has a 1/2" bezel, so that was my margin for error. I didn't have to use any geometry correction. It took a while though. As you know small adjustments can make a large difference.
If you try this method, I would first make sure any geometry correction is disabled.


----------



## copperfield74

g4s said:


> I can tell you how I set mine up. First I set the projector on the stand sitting level and moved it around until the image on the wall measured 59" tall. (the height of a 120" 16:9 image) Then I measured the distance from the floor to the top of the image. Marked the top of the image with masking tape. From there I marked the location of the brackets for the screen. Hung the screen, then moved the projector around and made small adjustments to the feet until it filled the screen. My screen has a 1/2" bezel, so that was my margin for error. I didn't have to use any geometry correction. It took a while though. As you know small adjustments can make a large difference.
> If you try this method, I would first make sure any geometry correction is disabled.


I did nearly the same. I projected the image on the wall and adjusted it until I had the measurments of the screen. I measured the the width of the frame so I knew where the the brackets had to be. I think one of my mistakes was that I didn't count in the depth of the screen and the frame.
On sunday my carpenter will visit me so we can design a new lowboard with all my wishes included. Maybe I'll hang the screen a little bit lower or I will add 3-5 cm in hight to it.
Is it guarnteed that you'll always get a straight rectangular if the surface is flat?


----------



## g4s

copperfield74 said:


> I did nearly the same. I projected the image on the wall and adjusted it until I had the measurments of the screen. I measured the the width of the frame so I knew where the the brackets had to be. I think one of my mistakes was that I didn't count in the depth of the screen and the frame.
> On sunday my carpenter will visit me so we can design a new lowboard with all my wishes included. Maybe I'll hang the screen a little bit lower or I will add 3-5 cm in hight to it.
> Is it guarnteed that you'll always get a straight rectangular if the surface is flat?


I think the closer to level the projector is front to back, the straighter the rectangle, less keystone issues there'll be. You're gonna love it!


----------



## copperfield74

g4s said:


> I think the closer to level the projector is front to back, the straighter the rectangle, less keystone issues there'll be. You're gonna love it!


In other threads on this website I've read that by using keystone the picture quality is reduced. What do you think?


----------



## g4s

copperfield74 said:


> In other threads on this website I've read that by using keystone the picture quality is reduced. What do you think?


I've read that too. Don't know from personal experience, but still think it's best to avoid geometry correction if you can.


----------



## stevenarper

copperfield74 said:


> A lot people already tried switching off those settings.
> It's not a good sign if they still try to get us going down that road instead of tweaking the firmware.



Going off of this, has anyone tried running the P1 at 1080p resolution and seeing if that affects the lag at all? Does the max framerate increase from 60 to 120 or 240?


----------



## Kev1000000

stevenarper said:


> Going off of this, has anyone tried running the P1 at 1080p resolution and seeing if that affects the lag at all? Does the max framerate increase from 60 to 120 or 240?


1080p makes no difference, though you can run the P1 at 120hz with 1080p, though it has no effect on input lag.


----------



## Casepb

Has anyone put the projector on the floor and 14 inches away (for 120" image) and then measured the height from the floor to the bottom of the image? Is it 22 inches? The bottom of my screen is 24 inches from my floor so I'm wondering if I can only have 2 inches underneath the projector to be aligned.


----------



## Kdub69

Casepb said:


> Kdub69 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Iâ€™️ve had the p1 for over 2 weeks now been playing nhl 20 online on game mode with the other pure motion and app disabled and I can tell you I canâ€™️t feel the lag at all. Good news however I donâ€™️t have a ps4 pro so its just a regular ps4 hope this helps
> 
> 
> 
> If you leave the geometry correction enabled how bad is it? I never play console games online so I'm not worried about that. Wondering mostly for single player experiences that don't require lightning fast reflexes.
Click to expand...


I have not tried this yet as I dont have my screen yet and don’t plan on using the correction since I want better input lag


----------



## klas

Someone posted a long review on Amazon for VAVA UST, they first got P1 and it had color banding and VAVA is better overall. Is this true about color banding?

"when looking at a scene with a blue or blown out sky"


----------



## Brajesh

Don't think VAVA is a better projector. It and all the Chinese Xiaomi UST variants don't support 24p, which is a big deal for practically all movies and even TV shows. One of the reasons I got rid of my Xiaomi Mijia.

But, problem so far is honestly lack of acknowledgement of the issues brought up so far by early adopters, and how they plan to address them. I was planning on buying Optoma P1, but certainly won't plop down $3,300 until I see some assurance of proper support.


----------



## bjanssen

Brajesh said:


> Don't think VAVA is a better projector. It and all the Chinese Xiaomi UST variants don't support 24p, which is a big deal for practically all movies and even TV shows. One of the reasons I got rid of my Xiaomi Mijia.
> 
> But, problem so far is honestly lack of acknowledgement of the issues brought up so far by early adopters, and how they plan to address them. I was planning on buying Optoma P1, but certainly won't plop down $3,300 until I see some assurance of proper support.


I too am in this camp. I want this projector but the silence from Tuan or any of the other Optoma reps who frequent this board on the input lag issue is very worrying. I don't care if they have the solution yet, but I want to at least know that they care and are actively working on solving it. Where are they in this process? Have they been able to reproduce it yet? Do they know where the issue lies or are they still hunting? Do they feel like it is something they can fix or is it unlikely to be able to be improved? Any communication at all would be helpful.


----------



## copperfield74

klas said:


> Someone posted a long review on Amazon for VAVA UST, they first got P1 and it had color banding and VAVA is better overall. Is this true about color banding?
> 
> "when looking at a scene with a blue or blown out sky"


 I don't see any color banding! The only thing I don't like is that if any of the 3 dynamic black options is activated the picture sometimes gets "faded"....it looses it's brightness and get's some sort of grey'ish.
But in normal mode the picture is really great. Everybody that visits me is amazed about picture quality.


----------



## Kev1000000

I am starting to get the half picture bugged out issue quite often now. I worry this may be a hardware issue since it is increasing in frequency.


----------



## Tuan

bjanssen said:


> I too am in this camp. I want this projector but the silence from Tuan or any of the other Optoma reps who frequent this board on the input lag issue is very worrying. I don't care if they have the solution yet, but I want to at least know that they care and are actively working on solving it. Where are they in this process? Have they been able to reproduce it yet? Do they know where the issue lies or are they still hunting? Do they feel like it is something they can fix or is it unlikely to be able to be improved? Any communication at all would be helpful.


I replied back a few pages ago that we're working on it. No updates yet. Its a firmware issue.


----------



## Brajesh

Thanks for replying @Tuan. Are you saying the input lag and weird picture artifact issues are all f/w addressable?

On another note, anyone successfully play full framepacked 3D MVC Blu-rays or ISO's/MKV's?


----------



## Tuan

Brajesh said:


> Thanks for replying @Tuan. Are you saying the input lag and weird picture artifact issues are all f/w addressable?
> 
> On another note, anyone successfully play full framepacked 3D MVC Blu-rays or ISO's/MKV's?


Input lag is firmware addressable. I'll let my PM chime in on any other issues.


----------



## roodof

Tuan said:


> Input lag is firmware addressable. I'll let my PM chime in on any other issues.


are the half picture artifacts some are experiencing firmware addressable?


----------



## Kev1000000

Tuan said:


> Input lag is firmware addressable. I'll let my PM chime in on any other issues.


Thanks, Tuan. That's great news. If we can get confirmation the half-screen artifacting is also addressable, I will have no problems recommending this projector.


----------



## tambur123

copperfield74 said:


> I don't see any color banding! The only thing I don't like is that if any of the 3 dynamic black options is activated the picture sometimes gets "faded"....it looses it's brightness and get's some sort of grey'ish.
> But in normal mode the picture is really great. Everybody that visits me is amazed about picture quality.


I assume this happens only in dark scenes where the laser is dimmed to improve black levels. Do you notice any “brightness pumping” when this happens?


----------



## spacecrafter3d

If this projector was already released, why don’t there seem to be any reviews available from the usual review sites?


----------



## tambur123

spacecrafter3d said:


> If this projector was already released, why don’t there seem to be any reviews available from the usual review sites?


It has very limited availability. I've preorder it a month ago and hopefully by next week I'll have it delivered.


----------



## g4s

spacecrafter3d said:


> If this projector was already released, why don’t there seem to be any reviews available from the usual review sites?


There's very few of these in the wild. I received mine on Oct. 8th. There's a promotion, first 200 reviews combined on Amazon and Optoma's site will get a $200 gift card. I thought, better not wait too long. There's still only 80 reviews as of now.


----------



## moctodavs

Hey guys, I need confirmation on wall/distance clearance requirements.

Optoma gives an approximation that for 120 inch, you need about 17" from bottom of projector to bottom of image, and 14" from back of projector to wall. Due to the height of the media console, If I don't have enough vertical wall clearance to take into account the height of the screen frame, I assume the only solution is to somehow lower the height of the table, or put it on the floor, correct? Because simply pulling back the projector further away from the wall will only make the image greater than 120, correct?


----------



## g4s

moctodavs said:


> Hey guys, I need confirmation on wall/distance clearance requirements.
> 
> Optoma gives an approximation that for 120 inch, you need about 17" from bottom of projector to bottom of image, and 14" from back of projector to wall. Due to the height of the media console, If I don't have enough vertical wall clearance to take into account the height of the screen frame, I assume the only solution is to somehow lower the height of the table, or put it on the floor, correct? Because simply pulling back the projector further away from the wall will only make the image greater than 120, correct?


These need to be pretty low. I wouldn't hang a screen based on anyone's measurements, because there can be a difference between one P1 to the next.
To give you some reference though, my 120" screen's projected image is 19 1/2" above the projector stand. The projector is 14 1/2" from the screen surface (not the wall).
Mine sits on a small 2 1/2" platform.


----------



## moctodavs

g4s said:


> These need to be pretty low. I wouldn't hang a screen based on anyone's measurements, because there can be a difference between one P1 to the next.
> To give you some reference though, my 120" screen's projected image is 19 1/2" above the projector stand. The projector is 14 1/2" from the screen surface (not the wall).
> Mine sits on a small 2 1/2" platform.


Cool. Thank you!


----------



## Casepb

g4s said:


> These need to be pretty low. I wouldn't hang a screen based on anyone's measurements, because there can be a difference between one P1 to the next.
> To give you some reference though, my 120" screen's projected image is 19 1/2" above the projector stand. The projector is 14 1/2" from the screen surface (not the wall).
> Mine sits on a small 2 1/2" platform.


I've been trying to find this information as well, thanks. Looking to build a custom stand just for it. Wasn't sure how many inches I needed to boost it up from the floor. I guess the smartest thing for me to do is buy the thing first and then measure once I have it, because the bottom of my screen is 24 inches from the floor.


----------



## kalle4242

Kev1000000 said:


> I am starting to get the half picture bugged out issue quite often now. I worry this may be a hardware issue since it is increasing in frequency.


I talked to my reseller today, because I have the same problem (distortion/flicker on the right side of screen). He hadn´t heard of this issue for the Optoma so far, but he told me they had an similar issue with a BenQ beamer also with a 0.47 chip and thought it might be a HDMI initialization problem that could be fixed by setting a "proper" start up sequence. Meaning shutting down all connected sources then restart the P1 first and the switching on the Fire TV stick or whatever afterwards

I will check that tomorrow but also told him to check for a replacement - I am not going to take risks on that. Problem is: The demand on the P1 is so high that availability is an issue.


P.S.: He told me that the demand on the LG HU85L is pretty poor compared to the Optoma and LG "has to do something", but nothing on a price drop or something so far. Picture quality wise the LG is(slightly) better than the P1 but not so much that people are willing to pay the extra buck on that.


----------



## g4s

kalle4242 said:


> I talked to my reseller today, because I have the same problem (distortion/flicker on the right side of screen). He hadn´t heard of this issue for the Optoma so far, but he told me they had an similar issue with a BenQ beamer also with a 0.47 chip and thought it might be a HDMI initialization problem that could be fixed by setting a "proper" start up sequence. Meaning shutting down all connected sources then restart the P1 first and the switching on the Fire TV stick or whatever afterwards
> 
> I will check that tomorrow but also told him to check for a replacement - I am not going to take risks on that. Problem is: The demand on the P1 is so high that availability is an issue.
> 
> 
> P.S.: He told me that the demand on the LG HU85L is pretty poor compared to the Optoma and LG "has to do something", but nothing on a price drop or something so far. Picture quality wise the LG is(slightly) better than the P1 but not so much that people are willing to pay the extra buck on that.


I've seen mine do that occasionally when switching inputs from a 1080p source to another HDMI input with a 2160p HDR source or vice versa. HDMI handshake issue seems likely. It's a very brief glitch when it happens.


----------



## klas

kalle4242 said:


> P.S.: He told me that the demand on the LG HU85L is pretty poor compared to the Optoma and LG "has to do something"


 This was obvious and expected to happen when LG shocked us with the price. Did they imagined to move tons of these at 6k a pop?


----------



## g4s

klas said:


> This was obvious and expected to happen when LG shocked us with the price. Did they imagined to move tons of these at 6k a pop?


What they probably need to do is make some minor changes to it and give it a different model number and a lower price. If they were to lower the price without making any changes, the people that paid 6k would be pretty upset.


----------



## jhbball2002

Sorry, this has been asked already, but I'm getting conflicting information. 

Can the P1 be mounted to the ceiling, and can the image be inverted to account for this? It's strange, the data sheet seems to indicate that this is a supported configuration, but the user manual seems to indicate that this isn't supported.

An amazon user says it's possible, but the manufacturer commented and said this isn't supported.

Can anyone settle the score once and for all that owns one of these? I realize it's not ideal, but may be the only configuration that works in my space.


----------



## Wheres3d

Seen a few people asking but haven't seen an answer , what's 3d like , can anyone confirm it can play 3d rips from Plex , Kodi etc either from built in apps or external source , 
Thanks for all information


----------



## velcrow

Would be nice to know from FLOOR to top of 120" screen measurement if the Optoma P1 was sitting directly on the floor. Then deciding on a stand would be simple math (add the height of stand). Anybody who has an early unit willing to test it from floor to top of 120" image at most focused distance?


----------



## Mikkle

velcrow said:


> Would be nice to know from FLOOR to top of 120" screen measurement if the Optoma P1 was sitting directly on the floor. Then deciding on a stand would be simple math (add the height of stand). Anybody who has an early unit willing to test it from floor to top of 120" image at most focused distance?


There's some variance from unit to unit so unfortunately, someone else's measurement will likely not help you.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

velcrow said:


> Would be nice to know from FLOOR to top of 120" screen measurement if the Optoma P1 was sitting directly on the floor. Then deciding on a stand would be simple math (add the height of stand). Anybody who has an early unit willing to test it from floor to top of 120" image at most focused distance?


This has been covered before ad nauseam. Look a few pages back.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

jhbball2002 said:


> Sorry, this has been asked already, but I'm getting conflicting information.
> 
> Can the P1 be mounted to the ceiling, and can the image be inverted to account for this? It's strange, the data sheet seems to indicate that this is a supported configuration, but the user manual seems to indicate that this isn't supported.
> 
> An amazon user says it's possible, but the manufacturer commented and said this isn't supported.
> 
> Can anyone settle the score once and for all that owns one of these? I realize it's not ideal, but may be the only configuration that works in my space.


Buy one from Projectionhead. He has been helpful and says it works. I'd trust him since he has to deal with returns, complaints, etc...


----------



## MississippiMan

velcrow said:


> Would be nice to know from FLOOR to top of 120" screen measurement if the Optoma P1 was sitting directly on the floor. Then deciding on a stand would be simple math (add the height of stand). Anybody who has an early unit willing to test it from floor to top of 120" image at most focused distance?





Mikkle said:


> There's some variance from unit to unit so unfortunately, someone else's measurement will likely not help you.


Not so much that any information @*velcrow* could glean prior to purchasing one wouldn't be useful in making a generalized decision on a suitable Table Top height. The really valuable info is the image offset of the P1 when set back to allow for a 120" diagonal image. 



Casey_Bryson said:


> This has been covered before ad nauseam. Look a few pages back.


So why add to the nausea by treating @*velcrow* 's query as being trite? I mean this Thread is 52 pages long.....as if you never asked a question about something you absolutely knew was contained somewhere in a monster Thread? C'mon....where is the Forum spirit that means sharing information. I don't think that means telling a newish Member "This has been covered before ad nauseam. Look a few pages back."

Your a lucky owner and I bet you know exactly what the image offset is....and how far back the P1 needs to be @*120* ". A one sentence reply and another Forum Member helped. Even just a link to the post with the information needed wouldn't be any harder to offer up than the given response was.

Over my many years on AVS, yeah I've seen some Members take offense at being asked questions they felt were redundant....but crazily be willing to help when a Poster comes right out and says, "I don't want to go searching through 40-50 pages...I'm sure someone can just tell me -the answer- I'm looking for."

I have an interest in the Projector myself, and as a Design Installer if I want definitive help on the Forum...I'd ask too if after a cursory look I couldn't find it. For some, a Thread such as this can be intimidating. Almost off putting. There is a LOT of superfluous postings. I'm just saying that at least once it's a nice gesture to answer a simple question.

So @*velcrow* , here it is.
(...and as noted above....the following figures have a slight


----------



## Casey_Bryson

My apologies I didn't mean to offend anyone. I was just trying to relay to the poster (velcro) why he wasn't getting a response. I realize this forum is really hard to search, but sometimes you have to respect the thread and dig a little. If the same simple question gets posed over and over and over and .....people get bored and lose interest and then the thread dies because it's not new info that helps anyone. Not that that is happening here.


----------



## Mikkle

MississippiMan said:


> Not so much that any information @*velcrow* could glean prior to purchasing one wouldn't be useful in making a generalized decision on a suitable Table Top height. The really valuable info is the image offset of the P1 when set back to allow for a 120" diagonal image.
> [...]
> (...and as noted above....the following figures have a slight


----------



## MississippiMan

Casey_Bryson said:


> My apologies I didn't mean to offend anyone. I was just trying to relay to the poster (velcro) why he wasn't getting a response. I realize this forum is really hard to search, but sometimes you have to respect the thread and dig a little. If the same simple question gets posed over and over and over and .....people get bored and lose interest and then the thread dies because it's not new info that helps anyone. Not that that is happening here.



Casey,
Thank you for your measured response. Thinking retrospectively about my post, I wasn't sure I'd get one.
In the DIY Forums, we often get around the frustration by putting links to specific post locations referencing important info. At least in a "perfect world" scenario. 

I'm an odd one out...often giving more than was asked for because in DIY'ing, all too often it's not what advice is conveyed that has the most impact, it's the advice not tendered that is found wanting. And....I'm used to it. 



Mikkle said:


> I appreciate the sentiment in your post, however the Optoma PM mentioned a while back that the published offsets have margins of error in the 8.5% and 10% range. For the distance between the projector and the bottom of a 120" image, the variance is over 1.20". That's rather substantial when we're talking about stands 10-12" in height.
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...toma-p1-4k-laser-ust-ces-41.html#post58670634


Hmmmm...that is more than the originally posted specifications. All the same, any effective advice would always suggest that the end user do his set-up to determine his screen placement parameters based on the known published figures, then adjust things accordingly. And....1.2" either way is still pretty governable. There has to be a starting point somewhere. 

But I can readily see the justification behind your prior post. There would obviously be differences.....but close enough for rock-n-roll.


Considering that every promo shot published by any Mfg of a UST PJ shows the image up on a bare Wall, and they make it a big point of the "preferred" use of a Wall...never a screen, it's a pretty inexact science. As a veteran of DLP PJ use, one thing that was always done was splashing an image on a wall "before" committing to exactly placing a screen.


These days, the emphasis among end users seem to be gravitating toward ALR screens that are designed to accept UST beaming, avoiding the caveats that wall use can present.(...dips-waves-bumps-etc...) while bringing the promise of true "TV Replacement" in a moderately lit room to bear.

While getting "most" wall surfaces prepped for UST images isn't even much a concern over on DIY Screens, everywhere else it can be a real issue, something that just might not even be an option. so all the fuss about knowing placement parameters for a PJ to Mfg Screen location isn't really a fuss at all, it's imperative knowledge that is critical to have before a buying decision is made. Myself, I think it deserves top mention on this Thread whenever and wherever it comes up. 


......after all, it's what UST is all about.


----------



## g4s

velcrow said:


> Would be nice to know from FLOOR to top of 120" screen measurement if the Optoma P1 was sitting directly on the floor. Then deciding on a stand would be simple math (add the height of stand). Anybody who has an early unit willing to test it from floor to top of 120" image at most focused distance?


I didn't actually move the projector to the floor, but from the top of my small projector stand to the top of the 120" screen is 78 1/2".


----------



## velcrow

Thank you -- that is exactly what I needed to know. I have an 'overhang' that gives me only 85" of height on the wall. So..... sounds like it is going to be a short platform to pull off 120" Screen.


----------



## velcrow

g4s said:


> I didn't actually move the projector to the floor, but from the top of my small projector stand to the top of the 120" screen is 78 1/2".


Any guesses or measurements on height of your small projector stand? Thank you!


----------



## g4s

velcrow said:


> Any guesses or measurements on height of your small projector stand? Thank you!


It's 2 1/2" tall.


----------



## Kdub69

g4s said:


> velcrow said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any guesses or measurements on height of your small projector stand? Thank you!
> 
> 
> 
> It's 2 1/2" tall.
Click to expand...


Can you tell me what kind of center speaker that is? Awesome thanks!


----------



## g4s

Kdub69 said:


> Can you tell me what kind of center speaker that is? Awesome thanks!


The short answer is "too big". Actually I made it years ago. It has two 6 1/2" drivers and two 1" dome tweeters. The speaker components were made by Vifa and I got a custom crossover made for it. I've made a lot of speakers, subs, stands, etc. over the years.


----------



## Kdub69

g4s said:


> Kdub69 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can you tell me what kind of center speaker that is? Awesome thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> The short answer is "too big". Actually I made it years ago. It has two 6 1/2" drivers and two 1" dome tweeters. The speaker components were made by Vifa and I got a custom crossover made for it. I've made a lot of speakers, subs, stands, etc. over the years.
Click to expand...


Awesome thanks going to get a center speaker that is wide but has smaller depth and height then the one I have


----------



## rick4d

TimHuey said:


> Tuan said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TimHuey said:
> 
> 
> 
> I keep wondering if someone is ever gonna accidentally set their unit beyond 120 inches and take a picture? What happens, does it explode? Does it shut the image off? I mean if it can do 120 at a very sharp image how much can it deteriorate at 121 inches or 130? I don't want to melt your unit but maybe someone that is projecting on a wall try it at 130 and snap a few pictures of what is going wrong if anything at 130? Many of the USTs go to 150 so it's not a design impossibility but maybe something happens. IF it does I sure would like to see a pic of it and hear if it is distracting or noticeable.
> 
> 
> 
> It will work, but we only guarantee optical clarity and sharpness up to 120-inch.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Interesting. So some units may go higher with no or limited deterioration and some may defocus or bow. Well at least we now know a singularity won't form and our units are safe.
Click to expand...

After a few hours of reading this thread, going through each post and sick follow-ups, deciding to empty my bank account and pull the trigger on a pre-order, im reading mostly about: 

falsefied input lag, the optoma reps "going dark" on the matter(Jack Bower is the reps name i think), hdr settings for random devices, the UK units being far, far superior to the pathetic American ones, the short list of benefits between this and the pricer LG(i.e.3D compatible), the headache with the unit being dangerously low or too far infront of the screen making the setup awkward(takes the U out of Ultra Short Throw), and so on. 
I have 2 questions for the early adopters out there: 

1)For previous standard throw projector owners like myself, who are downsizing from a size similar to that of a standard 2 car garage door(yes we are out there), can someone do an eye test whether or not this projector can deliver a quaility image at 130/150 inches in size? 
I am aware that the rep doesn't guarantee optical clarity and sharpness larger than 120in. 
I am aware that lenticular/CLR / UST Specific ALR screen sizes max out at around 120in. from most sellers, but I'm willing to wait until a decent UST ALR screen is more commonly offered at that size. 
I am aware to achieve this that the large unit will now be pretty much sitting in my lap like a quiet purring cat. 

2) Can any 3D lovers out there confirm decent cinema quality with their passive 3D glasses?
This coming from a happy PSVR user perspective with a ton of movies imported from the UK waiting to be watched. I'm from northern Cali and it might be a challenge to see this in person before a purchase. 
Thank u in advance.


----------



## rick4d

FYI here is a decent review on this PJ


----------



## rick4d

FYI here is a nice recent review of this PJ.


----------



## [email protected]

Hey guys, I've had this projector for a couple weeks and thought I'd contribute my findings.

*ISF mode* - press power, up, down, up, up. You can toggle between "ISF off", "ISF on", and "ISF unlock". On and unlock add the "ISF night" and "ISF day" display modes for customization. Unlock allows you to edit them. I don't see any additional customization options with these.

*Half screen issue* - happens mostly with 24hz. It was really bad when I first got it, but I disabled 24hz on my sources and haven't had a single issue over the past two weeks other than


----------



## Nihar P

jhbball2002 said:


> Sorry, this has been asked already, but I'm getting conflicting information.
> 
> 
> 
> Can the P1 be mounted to the ceiling, and can the image be inverted to account for this? It's strange, the data sheet seems to indicate that this is a supported configuration, but the user manual seems to indicate that this isn't supported.
> 
> 
> 
> An amazon user says it's possible, but the manufacturer commented and said this isn't supported.
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone settle the score once and for all that owns one of these? I realize it's not ideal, but may be the only configuration that works in my space.


I have the same concern, coz in my setup, its just not possible to use a projector in table top mode. So I have no option other than mounting it on the ceiling.

The manual says only table top mode is supported (either projecting in front of the screen, or from behind).

So I asked the Optoma sales guy. He too confirmed that this projector cannot be used in any mode other than the table top mode.

I am really confused (and worried) now, as after a lot of consoling myself of all the Cons weighed against the Pros, this is now becoming the single biggest factor for me that's preventing me from pulling the buy trigger.

If common sense prevails, I don't reckon this to be a hardware issue/challenge, but rather just an addition to one of the upcoming firmware update?

(I have been getting weird dreams that I am watching the pj mounted on the ceiling with an array of mirrors to turn the image upside down & people laughing at the setup!!! LOL..)

If it does not work out eventually, I might have to just settle down with one of the chinese projectors like the Fengmi 4k (which support all sorts of weird mountings for all possible types of image projections), rather than optimistically waiting for someone at XDA to crack the P1's firmware & have this feature added in by voiding the warranty .. Which will be a shame for a traditional pj making giant like Optoma!


Sent from my GM1911 using Tapatalk


----------



## Gae80uk

Hi guys, just seen this new 2 reviews coupled with VividStorm floor raising 100" ALR screen and my jaw dropped down to the floor...pulling the trigger between Black Friday and Xmas, that's it!

Enjoy it!


----------



## imhotep6

Not sure if this has been shared.







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

Can any of the owners tell me if you are supposed to be getting HDR from the built in YouTube app?

I can select HDR streams but when going to the menu options to selected a mode to be in the HDR options are greyed out.

Thanks


----------



## jhbball2002

Nihar P said:


> I have the same concern, coz in my setup, its just not possible to use a projector in table top mode. So I have no option other than mounting it on the ceiling.
> 
> The manual says only table top mode is supported (either projecting in front of the screen, or from behind).
> 
> So I asked the Optoma sales guy. He too confirmed that this projector cannot be used in any mode other than the table top mode.
> 
> I am really confused (and worried) now, as after a lot of consoling myself of all the Cons weighed against the Pros, this is now becoming the single biggest factor for me that's preventing me from pulling the buy trigger.
> 
> If common sense prevails, I don't reckon this to be a hardware issue/challenge, but rather just an addition to one of the upcoming firmware update?
> 
> (I have been getting weird dreams that I am watching the pj mounted on the ceiling with an array of mirrors to turn the image upside down & people laughing at the setup!!! LOL..)
> 
> If it does not work out eventually, I might have to just settle down with one of the chinese projectors like the Fengmi 4k (which support all sorts of weird mountings for all possible types of image projections), rather than optimistically waiting for someone at XDA to crack the P1's firmware & have this feature added in by voiding the warranty .. Which will be a shame for a traditional pj making giant like Optoma!
> 
> 
> Sent from my GM1911 using Tapatalk


Yep, sounds like Projectionhead says it works?


----------



## [email protected]

4k HDR works great with youtube through my Roku. I've specifically tested with the Jacob + Katie Schwartz channel. The only time an HDR source doesn't work for me is Thursday night football through the Fox Sports app. 4K works, but the HDR is HLG, which the Optoma should be getting support for through a firmware update soon.


----------



## jhbball2002

Andddd in the review posted by Gae80uk it says it doesn't support ceiling mounting. I guess it doesn't support it. Shiiiiit.


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

[email protected] said:


> 4k HDR works great with youtube through my Roku. I've specifically tested with the Jacob + Katie Schwartz channel. The only time an HDR source doesn't work for me is Thursday night football through the Fox Sports app. 4K works, but the HDR is HLG, which the Optoma should be getting support for through a firmware update soon.


Thanks mate, any chance you can test it with the built in YouTube app from the Optoma Marketplace? Possibly it's something Optoma will be looking at with a firmware update but would be good to confirm it is definitely the built in app that fails to show the HDR version (despite letting me select a HDR stream when I go into the Video settings).

One other thing I have noticed so far (having only turned it on twice) is that it defaults to the "Game" preset...are others experiencing the same? I would have expected it to default back to the last selected mode (Cinema for me)


----------



## Nihar P

jhbball2002 said:


> Andddd in the review posted by Gae80uk it says it doesn't support ceiling mounting. I guess it doesn't support it. Shiiiiit.


Ok, so here's the official quote on Amazon -

Ceiling mount is not supported. This is a typo and will be removed from the datasheet. We only support desktop orientation. UST can be a challenge to install and installation on the ceiling can be problematic, especially for those with no experience with UST alignment. Hopefully this clears the air..

Damn fck 

Sent from my GM1911 using Tapatalk


----------



## roodof

think I read here in this thread and youtube video perhaps that the P1 employs pixel shifting to obtain 4k resolution,I contacted Optoma support and they claim native 4k,who's right?


----------



## Casepb

roodof said:


> think I read here in this thread and youtube video perhaps that the P1 employs pixel shifting to obtain 4k resolution,I contacted Optoma support and they claim native 4k,who's right?


Native 4K projectors cost far more, around $10,000 or more I think? So it's definitely a pixel shift technique being used. It still has the typical 8 million pixels so they can claim it's 4K.


----------



## solal-

I would like to know what's your calibration settings in HDR and non HDR mode ? 



What do you think of the brillant color options ? Just watching something on netflix right now and it seem better to me when it's on 1 rather than 10


----------



## moctodavs

What do you guys think of this Amazon review? Truthful? Or, could it possibly be a Vava employee? 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-...=cm_cr_othr_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B07XGM6YGQ


----------



## gollygosh

moctodavs said:


> What do you guys think of this Amazon review? Truthful? Or, could it possibly be a Vava employee?
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-...=cm_cr_othr_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B07XGM6YGQ



https://hometheaterhifi.com/reviews...-4k-ultra-short-throw-laser-projector-review/


----------



## tambur123

Noob question: If you use an CRL screen with a 0.6 gain which basically will halve the light output, won't the HDR be affected?
I don't have an CLR screen yet and before buying I would like to make sure it's worth 2000euros


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

tambur123 said:


> Noob question: If you use an CRL screen with a 0.6 gain which basically will halve the light output, won't the HDR be affected?
> I don't have an CLR screen yet and before buying I would like to make sure it's worth 2000euros


Cannot answer directly having never owned a CLR screen or indeed had a projector of any kind prior to getting the european version of the Optoma. But what I can say is that paired with a ALR screen there's no issues whatsoever with HDR, this really is a bright projector. The images are simply breathtaking. 

I would though look for a ALR screen instead of a CLR one as from my research they are more appropriate for these types of UST projectors.


----------



## J Bone

Looks like some good news. Although the lag input doesn't seem to be addressed, the majority of other issues we've all reported are.









Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Kev1000000

Awesome! I will check input lag tonight with this FW.


----------



## imhotep6

Anyone know if the latest stock of projectors still coming in this week?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tambur123

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> Cannot answer directly having never owned a CLR screen or indeed had a projector of any kind prior to getting the european version of the Optoma. But what I can say is that paired with a ALR screen there's no issues whatsoever with HDR, this really is a bright projector. The images are simply breathtaking.
> 
> I would though look for a ALR screen instead of a CLR one as from my research they are more appropriate for these types of UST projectors.


Thank you. What screen are you using?


----------



## Casepb

moctodavs said:


> What do you guys think of this Amazon review? Truthful? Or, could it possibly be a Vava employee?
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-...=cm_cr_othr_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B07XGM6YGQ


I for sure think it's a scam, or he was most likely paid off by VAVA. He claims the VAVA is 6000 lumens when it's truthfully 2500 ANSI Lumens. The guy could also just be ignorant.


----------



## bix26

Casepb said:


> I for sure think it's a scam, or he was most likely paid off by VAVA. He claims the VAVA is 6000 lumens when it's truthfully 2500 ANSI Lumens. The guy could also just be ignorant.




I think he was duped by the spec sheet. From what I’ve read the Vava’s out of the box color settings are way over saturated. Most people sadly don’t appreciate and aren’t used to accurate colors. The reviewer is probably just used to watching on torch mode. But then again most Indie Gogo products usually are heavily marketed with “influencer tactics” so I wouldn’t be surprised if it was a paid review, then again Optoma was doing paid reviews also. Either way most Amazon reviews hold no sway with me.


----------



## klas

Yeah Optoma is no better paying for reviews. Either way if you got VaVa on Amazon you can easily return it if you don't like. Actually the recent review titled "VAVA = Xiaomi on Steroids" sounds more realistic and considering the fact that I like my Xiaomi 1 gen I don't see how VAVA would be any worse.


----------



## bjanssen

VAVA has the same showstopper problem as the Xiaomi, it only does 60Hz so you get judder when watching 24p content.


----------



## solal-

J Bone said:


> Looks like some good news. Although the lag input doesn't seem to be addressed, the majority of other issues we've all reported are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk



Just updated mine, it's an UHZ65UST so at least it use the same firmware. 

When he reboot from the android update I got a bug a part of the screen is black, no it's updating the firmware it say it take 30min and the projector play a music during this made it's fun. I hope the bug will be gone once the firmware is update too, and that's not a buggy update. I will tell you if the bug continue in case this update must be avoided.


----------



## solal-

solal- said:


> Just updated mine, it's an UHZ65UST so at least it use the same firmware.
> 
> When he reboot from the android update I got a bug a part of the screen is black, no it's updating the firmware it say it take 30min and the projector play a music during this made it's fun. I hope the bug will be gone once the firmware is update too, and that's not a buggy update. I will tell you if the bug continue in case this update must be avoided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2637224


It work well after the long update


----------



## sbquart

Can someone verify if using smartfit is basically like digital keystone. Are you cutting away unused pixels? I'm assuming that getting the projector perfectly squared would use every pixel available.


----------



## jbl_lvr

sbquart said:


> Can someone verify if using smartfit is basically like digital keystone. Are you cutting away unused pixels? I'm assuming that getting the projector perfectly squared would use every pixel available.


You are correct. Want every pixel? Physically move it to the optimal location and don't use the keystone.

Can you even see the pixels though? I mean if 5% are lost to the keystone, is that something anyone would notice over an image that is not squared up?

The lag is another reason not to use the keystone since it requires processing.


----------



## copperfield74

jbl_lvr said:


> You are correct. Want every pixel? Physically move it to the optimal location and don't use the keystone.
> 
> Can you even see the pixels though? I mean if 5% are lost to the keystone, is that something anyone would notice over an image that is not squared up?
> 
> The lag is another reason not to use the keystone since it requires processing.


I tried to see if there is any lost in picture quality by turning it off and on again several times. 
To my untrained eye there was no difference. 
But nevertheless it will be better to arrange it without keystone to lower the latency in games.


----------



## freejak13

After the latest update the power led is constantly flashing red. Does that indicate some kind of power saving mode? Unit seems to be functioning normally.

Also, for those asking about ceiling mounting, there is an option in the settings to specify such an orientation.


----------



## Nihar P

freejak13 said:


> After the latest update the power led is constantly flashing red. Does that indicate some kind of power saving mode? Unit seems to be functioning normally.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, for those asking about ceiling mounting, there is an option in the settings to specify such an orientation.


That's a ray of hope, if you are seeing the option to invert the image for ceiling mounting... Has this started appearing after this latest update, or has it always been there?

Would be great if you can share a pic or video of that setting if you don't mind please. You will be getting blessings from many  


Sent from my GM1911 using Tapatalk


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

Everyone - CinemaX P1 Firmware C12 was released earlier today. The Firmware update contains three components (System C12, MCU C09, and DDP C15) -- addresses a number of issues. Please see the release note below. 

The update is completed in two phases: (1) System is first, unit will update and reboot. (2) MCU and DDP will update on the next shutdown (via the power button on the unit or power button on the remote).

For those experiencing a flicker at Home Screen (Launcher) and HDMI Source -- if the issue continues post update, we need to troubleshoot on a case by case basis. 


*CinemaX P1 C12 Firmware Release Note*

1.	Additional PC 3D timings (frame sequential) are now supported.
2.	Add HLG HDR Display Mode (supported with USB Media Player).
3.	Revamp Focus Menu UI for improved ease of use.
4.	Improve Home Screen (Launcher) image flickering. 
5.	Improve intermittent flickering over HDMI with HDR signal.
6.	Resolve DIM image with 1080p HDR or 4K UHD HDR Signal. Factory Reset is no longer required to resolve the issue.


----------



## freejak13

Nihar P said:


> That's a ray of hope, if you are seeing the option to invert the image for ceiling mounting... Has this started appearing after this latest update, or has it always been there?
> 
> Would be great if you can share a pic or video of that setting if you don't mind please. You will be getting blessings from many
> 
> 
> Sent from my GM1911 using Tapatalk


There are two ceiling mounted projection modes in the menu. Selecting them definitely flips the image upside down  

The option was available prior to the latest update.


----------



## young yu

Optoma

The default media player does not resume movies playing from USB after closing the movie or going into the home screen. 

Can this be updated with a firmware.


----------



## Kev1000000

Downloaded and installed update. No issues so far with half screen flickering.

Unfortunately, input lag is still abysmal at 120+ms. I know it wasn't mentioned as a fix in the release notes, but was hoping this was addressed. Sadly, it has not been.


----------



## Nihar P

freejak13 said:


> There are two ceiling mounted projection modes in the menu. Selecting them definitely flips the image upside down
> 
> 
> 
> The option was available prior to the latest update.


Couldn't thank you enough on finally clearing off the air on this one.. I wonder why is it not there in the manuals & that comment from @OPTOMA PM DUDE on the Amazon site, adding to the confusion... 

Anyway, pulling the trigger now


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

Nihar P said:


> Couldn't thank you enough on finally clearing off the air on this one.. I wonder why is it not there in the manuals & that comment from @OPTOMA PM DUDE on the Amazon site, adding to the confusion...
> 
> Anyway, pulling the trigger now


Just to add to the confusion slightly, the European model does not let you select these options. Plus as mentioned the manual states any warranty will be void if the projector is mounted in any other position than standard. Personally I would not take the risk of ceiling mounting this device, but of course the decision is yours to make.


----------



## Nihar P

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> Just to add to the confusion slightly, the European model does not let you select these options. Plus as mentioned the manual states any warranty will be void if the projector is mounted in any other position than standard. Personally I would not take the risk of ceiling mounting this device, but of course the decision is yours to make.


So you are saying that your model does not have that option? 

A bit weird that the P1 (US) model has this ceiling-mount viewing option available, but the UHZ65UST (EU) model does not have that option?


Sent from my GM1911 using Tapatalk


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

Nihar P said:


> So you are saying that your model does not have that option?
> 
> A bit weird that the P1 (US) model has this ceiling-mount viewing option available, but the UHZ65UST (EU) model does not have that option?
> 
> 
> Sent from my GM1911 using Tapatalk


Yes my model (UHZ65UST) does not have that option in the settings. There is only the two options available in front of the screen, or behind the screen. I have not seen the US manual but the European specifically states it cannot be mounted upside down on the ceiling.


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

We WILL NOT support ceiling mounting -- meaning you are on YOUR OWN. Support will not assist in issues related to mounting on the ceiling. The ceiling mount option is meant for professional dealers and installers which is why there is no mention in the datasheet or manual.

1. Ceiling mounting does not work with ALR Screens unless the material is specifically made for ceiling mounting.

2. We do not sell or recommend a Ceiling Mount. The product is near 25lbs. -- we will not be liable for any issue associated with improper mounting or damage to the home.

3. The average person has issues aligning from table-top position, ceiling is even more of a challenge. We do not want to burn resources on a configuration that is not the key target market. 


I hope this clears the air.


----------



## klas

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> We WILL NOT support ceiling mounting -- meaning you are on YOUR OWN. Support will not assist in issues related to mounting on the ceiling. The ceiling mount option is meant for professional dealers and installers which is why there is no mention in the datasheet or manual.
> 
> 1. Ceiling mounting does not work with ALR Screens unless the material is specifically made for ceiling mounting.
> 
> 2. We do not sell or recommend a Ceiling Mount. The product is near 25lbs. -- we will not be liable for any issue associated with improper mounting or damage to the home.
> 
> 3. The average person has issues aligning from table-top position, ceiling is even more of a challenge. We do not want to burn resources on a configuration that is not the key target market.
> 
> 
> I hope this clears the air.


I take it the main reason you don't support it because you don't trust people mounting 25 pound box on the ceiling


----------



## Kdub69

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Everyone - CinemaX P1 Firmware C12 was released earlier today. The Firmware update contains three components (System C12, MCU C09, and DDP C15) -- addresses a number of issues. Please see the release note below.
> 
> The update is completed in two phases: (1) System is first, unit will update and reboot. (2) MCU and DDP will update on the next shutdown (via the power button on the unit or power button on the remote).
> 
> For those experiencing a flicker at Home Screen (Launcher) and HDMI Source -- if the issue continues post update, we need to troubleshoot on a case by case basis. 🙂
> 
> 
> *CinemaX P1 C12 Firmware Release Note*
> 
> 1.	Additional PC 3D timings (frame sequential) are now supported.
> 2.	Add HLG HDR Display Mode (supported with USB Media Player).
> 3.	Revamp Focus Menu UI for improved ease of use.
> 4.	Improve Home Screen (Launcher) image flickering.
> 5.	Improve intermittent flickering over HDMI with HDR signal.
> 6.	Resolve DIM image with 1080p HDR or 4K UHD HDR Signal. Factory Reset is no longer required to resolve the issue.



Great to see the updates! 

Can you please confirm that your are working on the input lag and that this will eventually be addressed in an upcoming firmware update? Thanks


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

klas said:


> I take it the main reason you don't support it because you don't trust people mounting 25 pound box on the ceiling


Part of the reason -- yes. With ceiling mounting, you are not working with a flat surface (projector). The mount must have complete Roll, Pitch and Yaw controls with fine adjustment or it will quickly become a nightmare. ;-)


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

Kdub69 said:


> Great to see the updates!
> 
> Can you please confirm that your are working on the input lag and that this will eventually be addressed in an upcoming firmware update? Thanks


Yes - we are working on a solution for 4K UHD and 1080p. We will work to provide info in the coming week or two. 

Please be patient.


----------



## bjanssen

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Yes - we are working on a solution for 4K UHD and 1080p. We will work to provide info in the coming week or two.
> 
> Please be patient.


Thanks. Hopefully 4K HDR (as opposed to just UHD) feeds are also on the agenda? The primary reason people want this is for xbox one/PS4 gaming which is a 4K HDR feed.


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

bjanssen said:


> Thanks. Hopefully 4K HDR (as opposed to just UHD) feeds are also on the agenda? The primary reason people want this is for xbox one/PS4 gaming which is a 4K HDR feed.


Yes, 4K UHD means 4K UHD and 4K UHD HDR. I am a hardcore gamer and use our products with Xbox One X and an AMD Vega 64. HDR has a nominal impact on input lag.

Stay Tuned.


----------



## robusto400

So in low light or dark environment how does the PQ really compare to a good large screen (75" or 82") 4k LED panel, like Samsung QLED? Love the UST for larger screen size but really want first class HD and more importantly 4K PQ.


----------



## bjanssen

robusto400 said:


> So in low light or dark environment how does the PQ really compare to a good large screen (75" or 82") 4k LED panel, like Samsung QLED? Love the UST for larger screen size but really want first class HD and more importantly 4K PQ.


It's a projector, so black levels and brightness will never be able to compare with a Samsung QLED. You make those sacrifices for the screen size that you can't get with QLED (i.e. over 100").


----------



## Kev1000000

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Yes - we are working on a solution for 4K UHD and 1080p. We will work to provide info in the coming week or two.
> 
> Please be patient.


Your acknowledgement and suggestion you're working on something is awesome. Thank you, sir. For all of us gamers, *thank you!*


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

jbl_lvr said:


> You are correct. Want every pixel? Physically move it to the optimal location and don't use the keystone.
> 
> Can you even see the pixels though? I mean if 5% are lost to the keystone, is that something anyone would notice over an image that is not squared up?
> 
> The lag is another reason not to use the keystone since it requires processing.


Keystone and SmartFIT are not the same. Keystone corrects trapezoidal images while SmartFIT can actually handle Geometry Correction. 

SmartFIT utilizes Four Corner and Warping to align the image. Yes -- there is a pixel penalty. Ideally, manual alignment is best YET can be very difficult for most people -- hence the inclusion of SmartFIT. If you have the patience, manual is the way to go, if NOT, SmartFIT is best. 

As for image quality. If I showed you a manual image and SmartFIT image - hard-pressed to tell the difference. 

For performance -- there is a small penalty (input lag) that we will address in the near future.


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

jbl_lvr said:


> You are correct. Want every pixel? Physically move it to the optimal location and don't use the keystone.
> 
> Can you even see the pixels though? I mean if 5% are lost to the keystone, is that something anyone would notice over an image that is not squared up?
> 
> The lag is another reason not to use the keystone since it requires processing.





Kev1000000 said:


> Your acknowledgement and suggestion you're working on something is awesome. Thank you, sir. For all of us gamers, *thank you!*


Dude, of course.  

It is the season -- and gaming is life. 

I WILL keep everyone posted.


----------



## Chapla1n

Anyone heard of Edge AV Store?


Suddenly have stock (at a $200 premium) on Amazon.com, but... looks suspect, as they're a brand new store, with 4 reviews over the last couple of weeks.


Unless anyone knows different?



(Amazon itself still shows Temporarily out of stock.)


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

roodof said:


> think I read here in this thread and youtube video perhaps that the P1 employs pixel shifting to obtain 4k resolution,I contacted Optoma support and they claim native 4k,who's right?


The TI 4K DMD does NOT utilize PIXEL SHIFT. It is called FAST SWITCHING. Active Mirrormirror Array / multiple states (tilt) - 4 pixels per mirror at 240Hz / video processing reformulates the information, mapping to the 4K Native Signal. Each of the 8.3M pixels is ADDRESSABLE (distinct and unique -- unlike Pixel Shift) and TI 4K DMD is CTA 4K UHD Compliant where Pixel Shift products are NOT. All of our 4K UHD Products have the CTA 4K UHD Logo on the product. 

Yes - 4K UHD 3840x2160 Native Resolution.


----------



## MarcusD777

I know this projector is rated for a max of 120" screen but wondering if it would be possible to achieve a strong image on a 133" 16:9 screen? I currently am utilizing a Xiaomi UST projector which is rated up to 150". Even at 133" there will be some slight blurring to the edges of the screen. Is anyone out there with the P1 utilizing this projector on a larger than 120" screen with success?


----------



## Nihar P

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> We WILL NOT support ceiling mounting -- meaning you are on YOUR OWN. Support will not assist in issues related to mounting on the ceiling. The ceiling mount option is meant for professional dealers and installers which is why there is no mention in the datasheet or manual.
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Ceiling mounting does not work with ALR Screens unless the material is specifically made for ceiling mounting.
> 
> 
> 
> 2. We do not sell or recommend a Ceiling Mount. The product is near 25lbs. -- we will not be liable for any issue associated with improper mounting or damage to the home.
> 
> 
> 
> 3. The average person has issues aligning from table-top position, ceiling is even more of a challenge. We do not want to burn resources on a configuration that is not the key target market.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this clears the air.


Yes, I am fine with the fact that you will just not support or entertain any issues or concerns or problems arising or related to ceiling mounting thereof. So I will be aware of the fact that if there's any problem that I will be facing while configuring it, that has to be dealt with on my own. If I do go for it eventually, the setup will obviously be done by a professional installer at my place & the headache would be mine & his.

However, the point is - atleast provide that configuration for exception cases like mine (mentioning your no-support caveat). 

1. I do not plan to project on an ALR screen for now. If I feel the dire need sometime in the near future, I am still willing to go ahead & might explore options like mounting the ALR screen upside down (ALR technology is not rocket-science btw. The sawtooths will be deflecting light from below, instead from above & that's pretty much it.. Also, I do not have any ceiling lights near the area where I will be mounting the pj, so there's not going to be any light interference with the source. Frankly, I don't see any other ardent challenge there).

2. I will be getting a Ceiling Mount either custom made (I dont mind that & don't see any major challenge in that too..), or experiment with some universal mounts that can bear 25-30lbs.

3. I understand that ceiling mounting this is going to be nothing less than a nightmare for me & the professional installers - a test of patience, endurance, perseverance.. All of which I am willing to invest in, since this is going to be a 1-time affair. (I would have anyways faced that, had I bought 1 of the chinese USTs.. So I am anyways, already sitting prepared for that..)

I understand that you would not want to burn resources on a configuration that is not the key target market, but that's what differentiates good firms from the great ones, who don't leave any stone unturned to satiate just about everyone out there.
(The odds of a person being left-handed with color blindness would be less than 1.5%, but still Apple does give an option for such people to be able to use their devices as well!) 


So in a nutshell, the crux is - atleast make that configuration available for exception cases like mine (mentioning your no-support caveat of course).


Sent from my GM1911 using Tapatalk


----------



## copperfield74

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> The TI 4K DMD does NOT utilize PIXEL SHIFT. It is called FAST SWITCHING. Active Mirrormirror Array / multiple states (tilt) - 4 pixels per mirror at 240Hz / video processing reformulates the information, mapping to the 4K Native Signal. Each of the 8.3M pixels is ADDRESSABLE (distinct and unique -- unlike Pixel Shift) and TI 4K DMD is CTA 4K UHD Compliant where Pixel Shift products are NOT. All of our 4K UHD Products have the CTA 4K UHD Logo on the product.
> 
> Yes - 4K UHD 3840x2160 Native Resolution.


 I recognized that I get a lot of artefacts when I activate PureMotion. Our TV signal comes from a Horizon Box in 1080p. When I turn PureMotion off and watch the News feed I can see the studder in the banner, but the overall picture is okay, but when I activate PureMotion (1,2,3) the news feed is smooth without studdering but the overall picture has many artifacts in normal scenes and specially in faster scenes. If I recall correctly that wasn't an issue when I got the projector. Any ideas?
I'M the proud owner of the UHZ65UST, not the P1!


----------



## MDesigns

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> The TI 4K DMD does NOT utilize PIXEL SHIFT. It is called FAST SWITCHING. Active Mirrormirror Array / multiple states (tilt) - 4 pixels per mirror at 240Hz / video processing reformulates the information, mapping to the 4K Native Signal. Each of the 8.3M pixels is ADDRESSABLE (distinct and unique -- unlike Pixel Shift) and TI 4K DMD is CTA 4K UHD Compliant where Pixel Shift products are NOT. All of our 4K UHD Products have the CTA 4K UHD Logo on the product.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes - 4K UHD 3840x2160 Native Resolution.


It is not Native 4K, it is native 1080p. These DLP pixels are still 1080p size pixels, shifted 4 ways to create 4K. It can look good, but it is not NATIVE 4K. Native 4K pixels are four times smaller.

Can you share a datasheet etc that shows the tilting of mirrors to create 4k pixels when shifting? I believe this is the same shifting as jvc and epson, just four ways instead of two.

Lähetetty minun MRD-LX1 laitteesta Tapatalkilla


----------



## chinmokutak

if we want ALR screen, is UST specific screen the only option? 
I would like to have ALR screen to remove the ceiling lights, but I have ST projector that I may use time to time. 
I'm wondering if I could could get the regular ALR and use it for both UST and ST projector?


----------



## Kev1000000

chinmokutak said:


> if we want ALR screen, is UST specific screen the only option?
> I would like to have ALR screen to remove the ceiling lights, but I have ST projector that I may use time to time.
> I'm wondering if I could could get the regular ALR and use it for both UST and ST projector?


Yes, ALR screens for long throw and UST are completely different and will not be compatible with the type of projector they're not designed for.


----------



## chinmokutak

Kev1000000 said:


> Yes, ALR screens for long throw and UST are completely different and will not be compatible with the type of projector they're not designed for.


Damn, that's too bad. It's an expensive investment to be forced into one formfactor...


----------



## klas

chinmokutak said:


> Kev1000000 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, ALR screens for long throw and UST are completely different and will not be compatible with the type of projector they're not designed for.
> 
> 
> 
> Damn, that's too bad. It's an expensive investment to be forced into one formfactor...
Click to expand...

That's really an odd use case. Why would you use another projector if you are going to have UST projector in the same spot? In either case you could just get a regular screen and use for both.


----------



## chinmokutak

klas said:


> That's really an odd use case. Why would you use another projector if you are going to have UST projector in the same spot? In either case you could just get a regular screen and use for both.


True, I was also hoping not to get locked into a form factor, as paying for ALR means spending 2-3K... so next time I decide that UST was a bad idea and spend 2-3K for a projector, I was hoping not having to spend another 2-3K for a screen as well.

Is fair to say ALR would NOT improve picture quality if the room is dark?


----------



## bix26

chinmokutak said:


> True, I was also hoping not to get locked into a form factor, as paying for ALR means spending 2-3K... so next time I decide that UST was a bad idea and spend 2-3K for a projector, I was hoping not having to spend another 2-3K for a screen as well.
> 
> 
> 
> Is fair to say ALR would NOT improve picture quality if the room is dark?




Very good 120” UST screens can be had for $1,300 and almost half that price for 100”. Still not cheap but you certainly don’t have to pay $3,000 for good quality screen.


----------



## Kev1000000

chinmokutak said:


> True, I was also hoping not to get locked into a form factor, as paying for ALR means spending 2-3K... so next time I decide that UST was a bad idea and spend 2-3K for a projector, I was hoping not having to spend another 2-3K for a screen as well.
> 
> Is fair to say ALR would NOT improve picture quality if the room is dark?


IMO, I don't see a strong use-case to switch between UST and a traditional long-throw projector if it's the same room. If you have the right room, a long-throw projector is still superior in many ways. UST's are great for rooms where you don't want the hassle of mounting a projector from behind and/or you don't want to be blinded by the projector light whenever you get up. They also deal with ambient light a lot better.

If you're deciding between a UST and a long-throw projector, just go with the long-throw if the room supports it. UST's are designed for a very specific type of setup where traditional setups wouldn't work well, so the use case of swapping between UST and long-throws just doesn't make sense to me.


----------



## kalle4242

copperfield74 said:


> I recognized that I get a lot of artefacts when I activate PureMotion. Our TV signal comes from a Horizon Box in 1080p. When I turn PureMotion off and watch the News feed I can see the studder in the banner, but the overall picture is okay, but when I activate PureMotion (1,2,3) the news feed is smooth without studdering but the overall picture has many artifacts in normal scenes and specially in faster scenes. If I recall correctly that wasn't an issue when I got the projector. Any ideas?
> I'M the proud owner of the UHZ65UST, not the P1!


Checked that with my cable tuner (VU+ Uno 4K SE) - no problems. But I had issues with a Technisat tuner before the update like flickering etc. Disappeared after replacing the Technisat with the VU+. Seems like the Optoma is extremly sensitive regarding HDMI issues. Hope this helps.


----------



## copperfield74

kalle4242 said:


> Checked that with my cable tuner (VU+ Uno 4K SE) - no problems. But I had issues with a Technisat tuner before the update like flickering etc. Disappeared after replacing the Technisat with the VU+. Seems like the Optoma is extremly sensitive regarding HDMI issues. Hope this helps.


I checked if the output is 24Hz... and found of the the Output is labeled 1080p/50Hz! Maybe that’s the reason why I get artifacts. But the problem started about a week ago, before it was always great. Maybe my Horizon Box got an update that I haven’t recognized?
What is your output?


----------



## Nihar P

I had the local dealer give a demo at my place out here in India today, and that too didn't have the ceiling throw option that the US P1s have.. 

This unit that he had, was brought from Taiwan, so looks like the APAC versions are similar (or same) to UHZ65UST model?
Can anyone please confirm here???

Not sure if the higher lumens of the UHZ were also carried over in this unit though, but the brightness was pretty good, considering it was really sunny today out here at about 36-37 degrees celsius & the picture was pretty much watchable without any screen, and the image thrown directly over a very shabby yellowish-cream wall. (imperfections were magnified to the level of extent of becoming an eyesore, as this pj is very unforgiving to the surface it projects the image onto).
Watched some 4k videos from Youtube via the PS4 Pro & also played RDR2 with HDR on for a bit.. Didnt feel any lag at all btw, for an untrained eye having a causal gaming experience...
(Even in these unforgiving conditions with so much daylight splashing on the wall, the pj was handling it pretty darn good. See the vid footage attached..)

The pics of RDR2 are at about 120inch screen size (pj position measuring 26 inches from wall till front) & the pics of the homescreen and the scenery are at about 130-132inch screen.

No fan noise felt at all as well, though it did get a bit warm with just about 15-20 mins of 4k usage on bright mode (peeps trying to squish this thing into a cabinet in arid regions, beware. You might need enough room for this to vent out the heat, slightly more than the manual says, so take precautions on fitting a good exhaust fan out there for appropriate heat dissipation).

Only thing is I would now have to think about my center PSB Imagine speaker, as this Nuforce speaker alone in its own might, is indeed mighty capable, with all the oomph. Would probably think of using it in a Dolby Atmos mode configured through my NAD 758 V3 amp (IFF it is mounted on the ceiling).

Really wish Optoma plans on a no-speaker version/model of this pj, with a smaller size & footprint...







https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5dc70774a08d3/YouCut_20191110_000621735.mp4

Sent from my GM1911 using Tapatalk


----------



## Kev1000000

I just started experiencing a new issue on FW C12. The overall warmth of the image will flicker to super cool for a split second and then go back to normal. It's so fast that it's barely noticeable, but I can assure you it's happening. It only seems to appear when switching between an HDR and then a non-HDR source. Has anyone else experienced this?


----------



## robusto400

Does the Optima P1 support native 4k resolution or is it upscaling from 1080p? If not are there any UST projectors with native 4k?


----------



## klas

robusto400 said:


> Does the Optima P1 support native 4k resolution or is it upscaling from 1080p? If not are there any UST projectors with native 4k?


It's not upscaling 1080p, it's a pixel shifter like every other "4k" projector in this price range which is good enough, if you want true native 4k you probably want this then https://www.sony.com/electronics/projector/vpl-vz1000es


----------



## rick4d

Nihar P said:


> I had the local dealer give a demo at my place out here in India today, and that too didn't have the ceiling throw option that the US P1s have.. /forum/images/smilies/frown.gif
> 
> This unit that he had, was brought from Taiwan, so looks like the APAC versions are similar (or same) to UHZ65UST model?
> Can anyone please confirm here???
> 
> Not sure if the higher lumens of the UHZ were also carried over in this unit though, but the brightness was pretty good, considering it was really sunny today out here at about 36-37 degrees celsius & the picture was pretty much watchable without any screen, and the image thrown directly over a very shabby yellowish-cream wall. (imperfections were magnified to the level of extent of becoming an eyesore, as this pj is very unforgiving to the surface it projects the image onto).
> Watched some 4k videos from Youtube via the PS4 Pro & also played RDR2 with HDR on for a bit.. Didnt feel any lag at all btw, for an untrained eye having a causal gaming experience...
> (Even in these unforgiving conditions with so much daylight splashing on the wall, the pj was handling it pretty darn good. See the vid footage attached..)
> 
> The pics of RDR2 are at about 120inch screen size (pj position measuring 26 inches from wall till front) & the pics of the homescreen and the scenery are at about 130-132inch screen.
> 
> No fan noise felt at all as well, though it did get a bit warm with just about 15-20 mins of 4k usage on bright mode (peeps trying to squish this thing into a cabinet in arid regions, beware. You might need enough room for this to vent out the heat, slightly more than the manual says, so take precautions on fitting a good exhaust fan out there for appropriate heat dissipation).
> 
> Only thing is I would now have to think about my center PSB Imagine speaker, as this Nuforce speaker alone in its own might, is indeed mighty capable, with all the oomph. Would probably think of using it in a Dolby Atmos mode configured through my NAD 758 V3 amp (IFF it is mounted on the ceiling).
> 
> Really wish Optoma plans on a no-speaker version/model of this pj, with a smaller size & footprint...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5dc70774a08d3/YouCut_20191110_000621735.mp4
> 
> Sent from my GM1911 using Tapatalk


Thank you for posting the image with the larger screen size(130"-132"). People have been asking on this forum, whether or not the image loses significant detail and clarity beyond 120" with no real answers for a while now. Do you think that PJ you have, assuming its the P1, can display a quality image at 150"?


----------



## solal-

I've got my projector for more than a week now. I can say that the projector is very good for 4k/hdr source like recent movie filmed with digital camera and video games (I played death stranding on it all the weekend an it's very good). But for old media even in 4k (like old movie remastered), or in bluray (I don't even talk about dvd) I think the quality is very far from what I got with my sony hw55es who was great with all kind of media. I got a lot of noise on the images, even if I put the sharpness on 1, I don't know if I can change other parameter so the image look better because it's near to unwatchable. Also, even with 4k/HDR content I have do deactivate dynamic black and/or pure color, because with then the color seem very unrealistic, do other people feel the same ? 



I currently watch movie with the integrated player or a PS4 (for netflix), but strangely I found that the quality with youtube even for non 4k video is not bad ( and 4k/60hz is really beautiful). This maybe come from the fact that I read my media from the internal video player and it seem it doesn't switch resolution considering the input video, so I bought an nvidia shield that I will get Friday and see if it's still the same with old movie.


----------



## Nihar P

rick4d said:


> Thank you for posting the image with the larger screen size(130"-132"). People have been asking on this forum, whether or not the image loses significant detail and clarity beyond 120" with no real answers for a while now. Do you think that PJ you have, assuming its the P1, can display a quality image at 150"?


If you have a controlled light environment with a good ALR screen AND the couch from where you are going to see the picture is about 8ft apart or so, then I do not see any noticeable issue with atleast the 130-132".
150 inch might just be a bit of a stretch though, but should still pretty much be watchable.. You might be seeing a bit of a sharpness drop & get the clarity of only about a FullHD in that case, compared to the brightness & sharpness of a 4K that you get when it is projecting at 120".

(when we had first powered on the unit in an another darker room, the projector was very far away from the wall.. Might be far enough that it would be projecting a 150" screen, and I was still mesmerized with the image quality, compared to the quality that a traditional long throw lamp based projector would throw.


Sent from my GM1911 using Tapatalk


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## Nihar P

solal- said:


> I've got my projector for more than a week now. I can say that the projector is very good for 4k/hdr source like recent movie filmed with digital camera and video games (I played death stranding on it all the weekend an it's very good). But for old media even in 4k (like old movie remastered), or in bluray (I don't even talk about dvd) I think the quality is very far from what I got with my sony hw55es who was great with all kind of media. I got a lot of noise on the images, even if I put the sharpness on 1, I don't know if I can change other parameter so the image look better because it's near to unwatchable. Also, even with 4k/HDR content I have do deactivate dynamic black and/or pure color, because with then the color seem very unrealistic, do other people feel the same ?
> 
> 
> 
> I currently watch movie with the integrated player or a PS4 (for netflix), but strangely I found that the quality with youtube even for non 4k video is not bad ( and 4k/60hz is really beautiful). This maybe come from the fact that I read my media from the internal video player and it seem it doesn't switch resolution considering the input video, so I bought an nvidia shield that I will get Friday and see if it's still the same with old movie.


Sony is well known for doing a pretty good job at upscaling with their image software enhancements, so that might be doing the trick there..

Eagerly awaiting to see the AI upscaling magic of the Nvidia Shield TV Pro 2019 version coupled with this to see the output result.
I guess this is currently the best streamer that you can get for 4k viewing & 4k upscaling? (although traditionalists might debate that it makes the noir or the softness effect go, which the movie maker would've intended to show, and bring in unnecessary sharpness..)

Sent from my GM1911 using Tapatalk


----------



## Nihar P

Anyone heard about the CHIQ projectors from China?
I am hearing from the manufacturer that even their entry-level models like the B5U come with MEMC & coupled with a Vividstorm ALR screen, come very close to P1's performance, or are slightly better than P1 for half the cost.

Their C7UG model, which is their 2nd best model (with top being the CU8T, that has 3 separate laser sources for RGB), just blows the P1 out of the water!

C7UG is at 3000 ANSI lumens from source, has a S610 0.66" DMD chip, claiming to be capable of producing 130% of BT.709 & 450nits at 100".

Some vids here:


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

Nihar P said:


> Anyone heard about the CHIQ projectors from China?
> I am hearing from the manufacturer that even their entry-level models like the B5U come with MEMC & coupled with a Vividstorm ALR screen, come very close to P1's performance, or are slightly better than P1 for half the cost.
> 
> Their C7UG model, which is their 2nd best model (with top being the CU8T, that has 3 separate laser sources for RGB), just blows the P1 out of the water!
> 
> C7UG is at 3000 ANSI lumens from source, has a S610 0.66" DMD chip, claiming to be capable of producing 130% of BT.709 & 450nits at 100".
> 
> Some vids here:
> 
> https://youtu.be/lP4ZjOx1hxk
> https://youtu.be/GpsMBRoDJyA


It's the same problem as with all the other projectors from China (at least for us in UK) you would get no support and no warranty. The number of horror stories I have read on av forums about the Xiaomi put me off completely (even if the price is good)...personally unless they get officially released in my country I will avoid no matter what the claims of performance are (we all know from past history the models from China often claim numbers that do not live up to the hype)


----------



## solal-

Why in HDR mode in the info panel, the color format show BT. 709 & HDR ? This shouldn't be BT 2020 ?


----------



## g4s

solal- said:


> Why in HDR mode in the info panel, the color format show BT. 709 & HDR ? This shouldn't be BT 2020 ?


That info panel describes what your input device is capable of. BT 709 (HDTV) and I believe UHD HDR always comes with BT 2020.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Nihar P said:


> Anyone heard about the CHIQ projectors from China?
> I am hearing from the manufacturer that even their entry-level models like the B5U come with MEMC & coupled with a Vividstorm ALR screen, come very close to P1's performance, or are slightly better than P1 for half the cost.
> 
> Their C7UG model, which is their 2nd best model (with top being the CU8T, that has 3 separate laser sources for RGB), just blows the P1 out of the water!
> 
> C7UG is at 3000 ANSI lumens from source, has a S610 0.66" DMD chip, claiming to be capable of producing 130% of BT.709 & 450nits at 100".
> 
> SNIP (vids)


Doesn't look to bad. Maybe you could start a new threads for the CHIQ projectors if they don't exist. The C7UG looks a lot like the LG for 6K and the B5U looks a lot like the Fengmi/Xiaomi 4K with MEMC which is on the Lune if IIRC. Neither casing is attractive to me, but interesting and deserving of their own thread.


----------



## Posaidon

Kev1000000 said:


> I just started experiencing a new issue on FW C12. The overall warmth of the image will flicker to super cool for a split second and then go back to normal. It's so fast that it's barely noticeable, but I can assure you it's happening. It only seems to appear when switching between an HDR and then a non-HDR source. Has anyone else experienced this?


I saw the same issue on my unit with the latest firmware. The color of the image will switch from scene to scene regardless of whether you playing 4K HDR content or not. Notice on Kodi and other video streaming app.

Below is my finding on P1 after used it for a week with projecting to wall.
- The image really pop (even with a non pure white wall) only when there's no ambient light especially at night. Day time viewing definitely need a ALR screen, else it make no different with the low lumen china projector.
- When play with BD 1080p ISO (through Kodi), image is still acceptable but not as sharp as real 4K video.
- No references on manual focus make focus tuning difficult as you have no idea which level are you at.
- Playing 3D BD ISO (through Kodi) not working, image came out 2D only. Nothing can be switch on 3D setting from the Optoma menu.
- Cable that came with the unit is NOT HDMI 2.0 ! For those using HDMI 2.0 capable tvbox, you'll need to change the HDMI cable.
- The built in media player is SUCK !! It seem like not a Android TV version like nVidia Shield, no GMS too mean you'll not be able to login to Youtube or any google app. Any app that's utilize any component of GMS will not function correctly too. Original Youtube app can play in guest mode.
- Third party app which I sideloaded intermittently exit itself, although the app work correctly on my Nvidia Shield.
- The marketplace app have very limited app, the worst app store I ever see. The interface look like using Aptoide. The Youtube app is the third party youtube app which have issue to load. I have sideloaded official Aptoide TV app on my unit since Google Play Store is not possible at this stage until address the GMS stuff.
- There's Pico TTS component built into the system that need to be disable (through android app setting, you need a separate app to access this), or else you'll get headache when playing the official Youtube app. So annoying, I am wondering why they need to add that in !
- There's few hidden media player app came with default, you can only see it through other android management app.
- Sound quality is ok when play with Dolby stuff, but not fantastic. I basically output it to my speaker through Sonos Amp.
- Local distributor said anything more than 120", the image will start get blur at the edge as they has tested it. 
- The measurement template only have 85", 100", 120". For 90" & 110" you'll have to manually dig out the info from Optoma website, it is there on one of the documentation.


Did any one manage to find a ALR screen with 1.0-1.5 gain with reasonable price?


----------



## Wheres3d

Playing 3D BD ISO (through Kodi) not working, image came out 2D only.

Make sure you set the shield to output 1080 and not 4k when you are playing 3d


----------



## Kev1000000

Wheres3d said:


> Playing 3D BD ISO (through Kodi) not working, image came out 2D only.
> 
> Make sure you set the shield to output 1080 and not 4k when you are playing 3d


Username checks out.


----------



## kalle4242

copperfield74 said:


> I checked if the output is 24Hz... and found of the the Output is labeled 1080p/50Hz! Maybe that’s the reason why I get artifacts. But the problem started about a week ago, before it was always great. Maybe my Horizon Box got an update that I haven’t recognized?
> What is your output?


It´s 2160p/50Hz - the VU+ has a (pretty good) upscaling unit and you can set the HDMI output signal nearly to anything. The Technisat was 1080p and had lots of flickering especially when you switched it on on before(!) the Optoma - which is what the reseller guy told me to not do.


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

Has anyone had success setting up this projector with the Harmony remote? Had an attempt yesterday and the model is not recognised in their database, attempted to train it by using the remote but it was not recognising the key presses.


----------



## HiDyRa

MDesigns said:


> It is not Native 4K, it is native 1080p. These DLP pixels are still 1080p size pixels, shifted 4 ways to create 4K. It can look good, but it is not NATIVE 4K. Native 4K pixels are four times smaller.



As an Optoma 4K UHD customer, I can confirm that their products lack the resolution and detail of a true 4K display.
I have it setup in the same room as a Samsung 4K UHD screen and the resolution/detail in the image is noticeably better to the naked eye compared to the Optoma.


So I'd be wary of any company claiming that TI 4K DMDs have a "native" resolution of 3840x2160.


----------



## copperfield74

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> Has anyone had success setting up this projector with the Harmony remote? Had an attempt yesterday and the model is not recognised in their database, attempted to train it by using the remote but it was not recognising the key presses.


I had no problem using the learn function on my Harmony One.


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

copperfield74 said:


> I had no problem using the learn function on my Harmony One.


Thanks I'll give it another shot tonight, possibly I was doing something wrong


----------



## freejak13

I'm having issues getting the top and bottom of the image to be in focus at the same time. The projector is on a flat surface and I'm using an elite screen CLR. Any ideas? I've reached out to tech support already.


----------



## Doorknob

*Lamp error light... when it's OFF?!*

Hello fellow P1 owners,

Has anyone had an issue with get a lamp error that appears sometime when the projector isn't even on?! When it's on, the projector seems to work fine. No real issues.

I shut the projector down, and 50% of the time I'll come back later and the lamp error light will be lit red and the power light will be flashing red. I push the power button, it chimes, the error goes away, and everything is fine until it happens again.

I had accidentally turned "direct power on" on and thought maybe power fluctuations were causing issues, but that's now off and it happened again. The projector is connected to a nice beefy UPS as well. 

I've entered a support ticket with Optoma, but since every device I ever buy has to be returned/repaired at least once, I'm sure that's where this ends up... Deeply perturbed. Took an eternity to manually keystone this thing and shim the screen out to be just about perfect, and now the 30 day old projector is going to need service.

Thanks for any insight,
John


----------



## Doorknob

*What is burn-in mode?*

As I continue to try to figure out what/why/when the lamp error light is coming on, I switched to the "smart home" mode...

Now, when I turn the device off with HDMI CEC (Apple TV), I get a friggin' flashing white light on the power button. 

The manual tells me this is "Standby State (Burn in mode)". 

Could someone please tell me what this is, as it is never defined in the manual, nor can I find anything to define it on the Internet. Totally loving the idiotic flashing lights on this thing...

I want to use it with IoT devices, but my only option is to have it flashing red constantly (or in this case white?!).


----------



## freejak13

Doorknob said:


> As I continue to try to figure out what/why/when the lamp error light is coming on, I switched to the "smart home" mode...
> 
> Now, when I turn the device off with HDMI CEC (Apple TV), I get a friggin' flashing white light on the power button.
> 
> The manual tells me this is "Standby State (Burn in mode)".
> 
> Could someone please tell me what this is, as it is never defined in the manual, nor can I find anything to define it on the Internet. Totally loving the idiotic flashing lights on this thing...
> 
> I want to use it with IoT devices, but my only option is to have it flashing red constantly (or in this case white?!).


I asked the same question a few days ago but didn't get a response. Mine is flashing red when it's off also. This was after the last update.


----------



## jbl_lvr

MDesigns said:


> It is not Native 4K, it is native 1080p. These DLP pixels are still 1080p size pixels, shifted 4 ways to create 4K. It can look good, but it is not NATIVE 4K. Native 4K pixels are four times smaller.
> 
> Can you share a datasheet etc that shows the tilting of mirrors to create 4k pixels when shifting? I believe this is the same shifting as jvc and epson, just four ways instead of two.
> 
> Lähetetty minun MRD-LX1 laitteesta Tapatalkilla


Even TI lists it as a 4k part. You are right though, it is an 1080 array on the chip. There are only (2) 4k dlp chips-neither has a mirror for every pixel. 

http://www.ti.com/product/DLP470TP

This is most likely what is in the P1.

Some neat stuff about the new chip in the p1:



> The most recent class of chipsets from Texas Instruments is based on a breakthrough micromirror
> technology, called the TRP pixel architecture. With a smaller pixel pitch of 5.4 μm and increased tilt angle
> of ±17 degrees, TRP chipsets enable higher resolution in a smaller form factor compared to our previous
> pixel architecture and enhanced image processing features while maintaining high optical efficiency.


So more tilt that previous DLP chips.


----------



## klas

Does anyone know why projectors have this pixel shifting shenanigans in this day and age when everything else uses native 4k?


----------



## Fedder

klas said:


> Does anyone know why projectors have this pixel shifting shenanigans in this day and age when everything else uses native 4k?



As far as I know for the consumer side of things only Sony and JVC have native 4k panels in some models. For the pleb DLP folk and espon we have 4K native as well its just way to expensive so we get the shifters which are close enough and cheaper to make.


----------



## HiDyRa

klas said:


> Does anyone know why projectors have this pixel shifting shenanigans in this day and age when everything else uses native 4k?



Keeping prices low... I believe.
Native 4K projectors get pricey quickly.


----------



## jbl_lvr

Here's another way of looking at it...

Number of mirrors/pixels
Actual 4k pixels 8,847,360
Shifted 4k .66 dlp: 4,150,048
Shifted 4k .47 dlp : 2,073,600 (in the p1)

If you view the chips this way, one can see why the .66 chip in the LG UST costs $$$. I think we can also see how far off TI is with a 4k chips since both of these are new.


----------



## solal-

freejak13 said:


> I'm having issues getting the top and bottom of the image to be in focus at the same time. The projector is on a flat surface and I'm using an elite screen CLR. Any ideas? I've reached out to tech support already.



Did you use keystone correction ? I just realized two days ago that their is two rubber pad between the two front foot of the projector and the cases that must be removed to use the projector. Once I have removed them the projector is totally flat and I didn't need keystone correction anymore and so it's easier to get the focus right. (The two rubber pad goal is to block the foot if you need to adjust them but if you have a flat surface you don't need them).


----------



## Hamwich

What’s a good screen to pair with one of these units? I know alr will help with lighting issues, but as for brands to stay away from and stuff like that? I’ve watched a ton of YouTube comparisons trying to learn as much as I can before making the purchase. I am new to projection units, I have always had a nice tv currently using an lg oled c7. Need a bigger screen to really bring out the best home theater experience, so I thought about going to a projector. However I know the screen is almost as important of a purchase as the projector itself. So do I have to pay $5000 for a screen innovations ust screen? Is it that much better than the elite screens version or the Chinese xy screen or vivid storm? Talked with a Stewart screen rep yesterday but I’ve not researched them as much, he claims to be able to get me a good screen at half the cost of the screen innovations. What are you guys using? I’d rather not spend thousands of I didn’t have to. 

Sorry for the long post.


----------



## g4s

solal- said:


> Did you use keystone correction ? I just realized two days ago that their is two rubber pad between the two front foot of the projector and the cases that must be removed to use the projector. Once I have removed them the projector is totally flat and I didn't need keystone correction anymore and so it's easier to get the focus right. (The two rubber pad goal is to block the foot if you need to adjust them but if you have a flat surface you don't need them).


Yeah, I'm using those rubber pads to keep my A/V rack from rolling back out when I push it against the wall.
They do mention them in the manual, but I still don't understand their purpose.


----------



## lugagaga

solal- said:


> Did you use keystone correction ? I just realized two days ago that their is two rubber pad between the two front foot of the projector and the cases that must be removed to use the projector. Once I have removed them the projector is totally flat and I didn't need keystone correction anymore and so it's easier to get the focus right. (The two rubber pad goal is to block the foot if you need to adjust them but if you have a flat surface you don't need them).


If you tighten the front feet, the front feet will be lower than rear feet , too add back the pad back will make front / rear feet even and level the projector to avoid keystone.


----------



## moctodavs

Hamwich said:


> What’s a good screen to pair with one of these units? I know alr will help with lighting issues, but as for brands to stay away from and stuff like that? I’ve watched a ton of YouTube comparisons trying to learn as much as I can before making the purchase. I am new to projection units, I have always had a nice tv currently using an lg oled c7. Need a bigger screen to really bring out the best home theater experience, so I thought about going to a projector. However I know the screen is almost as important of a purchase as the projector itself. So do I have to pay $5000 for a screen innovations ust screen? Is it that much better than the elite screens version or the Chinese xy screen or vivid storm? Talked with a Stewart screen rep yesterday but I’ve not researched them as much, he claims to be able to get me a good screen at half the cost of the screen innovations. What are you guys using? I’d rather not spend thousands of I didn’t have to.
> 
> Sorry for the long post.


Same boat. But Screen Innovations is out of the question. I'm just trying to decided between Elite's Aeon CLR, XY Screen, Viewsonic BCP120, etc.


----------



## freejak13

solal- said:


> Did you use keystone correction ? I just realized two days ago that their is two rubber pad between the two front foot of the projector and the cases that must be removed to use the projector. Once I have removed them the projector is totally flat and I didn't need keystone correction anymore and so it's easier to get the focus right. (The two rubber pad goal is to block the foot if you need to adjust them but if you have a flat surface you don't need them).


By keystone do you mean warp calibration? I don't see a dedicated keystone setting in the menu.


----------



## J Bone

freejak13 said:


> By keystone do you mean warp correction? I don't see a dedicated keystone setting in the menu.


I was wondering about that. Euro model in one of the previous videos showed 12 point keystone correction that the P1 seems to be lacking. Might be part of a future update Optoma PM Dude? 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## copperfield74

J Bone said:


> I was wondering about that. Euro model in one of the previous videos showed 12 point keystone correction that the P1 seems to be lacking. Might be part of a future update Optoma PM Dude?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


It’s there! You just have to change the settings in the menu to 5x5 or 9x9


----------



## moctodavs

With regards to *GAIN* as it pertains to UST projectors such as this P1 and UST ALR screens, generally... is the lower the gain the better, or the higher? 

If buying a UST ALR screen, what do you want for rejecting as much light as possible during the day? Lower or Higher?
if buying a UST ALR screen, what do you want for getting a great picture in the dark at night? Lower or Higher?


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Here's the elunevison .6 gain versus xy .8. Jolester is just a regular Joe, but he does a good job of showing the difference between the different screen materials including white 1.0 gain, grey, and the CLR/ALR with negative gains.






I tend to think .6 would be better versus .8 since contrast is an issue and HDR craves better blacks, but looks like the difference is negligible.

I have the XY and love it. Better blacks, brighter whites even in light controlled room.


----------



## moctodavs

Casey_Bryson said:


> Here's the elunevison .6 gain versus xy .8. Jolester is just a regular Joe, but he does a good job of showing the difference between the different screen materials including white 1.0 gain, grey, and the CLR/ALR with negative gains.
> 
> https://youtu.be/VqNJbUWKVI0
> 
> I tend to think .6 would be better versus .8 since contrast is an issue and HDR craves better blacks, but looks like the difference is negligible.
> 
> I have the XY and love it. Better blacks, brighter whites even in light controlled room.


XY and the Elunevison seems identical. I recall reading somewhere that Elunevision is the same as Telon screen?


----------



## Casey_Bryson

moctodavs said:


> XY and the Elunevison seems identical. I recall reading somewhere that Elunevision is the same as Telon screen?


Just a small correction: I checked the specs for the Elunevision and it's .8 gain just like the XY. I was going off what Jolester said in the vid. The XY does have slightly better ambient light rejection at 93% versus 89% for the Elunevision version. No idea on the cost difference, but I'm assuming around double for the Elunevision.


----------



## Chrisb710

I've got the european version and have some problems with the settings. I'am not able to get into the sharpness, brightness etc. menu. the points can't be select to adjust them. I'am also not be able to setup 3D ... in the visionmodes there is no 3D option.
Can anybody help me?
Greetings from germany


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

A quick video of my setup showing 4K HDR on the European version UHZ65UST:

https://youtu.be/gcBcNpjNwMI


----------



## Chrisb710

I've finally made. These options are only available while a movie is running. 
Do you've got problems with 3D too?
I can't watch longer than 5 minutes ... it hurts in my eyes. The picture isn't really sharp, can't discribe it exactly. I have tested it with Hishock DLP Pro.


----------



## solal-

g4s said:


> That info panel describes what your input device is capable of. BT 709 (HDTV) and I believe UHD HDR always comes with BT 2020.



Yes I believe too, but when I use my ps4 in hdr mode (netflix or game) it display HDR & BT 709, not BT or REC 2020. 

As I have no other HDR device (I'm waiting for my nvidia shield) I would like to know if it display the the same thing to you when watching HDR video or does it show BT 2020 ?


----------



## mlkconcept

Chrisb710 said:


> I've finally made. These options are only available while a movie is running.
> Do you've got problems with 3D too?
> I can't watch longer than 5 minutes ... it hurts in my eyes. The picture isn't really sharp, can't discribe it exactly. I have tested it with Hishock DLP Pro.


What player are you using? Is it 3D Blu-ray disc, SBS, ISO, MVC?

Enviado desde mi SM-G950F mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Chrisb710

A selfmade NAS with plexserver, Fire TV with Kodi. The files are .mkv .iso etc.
If i go directly to hdmi on beamer, the 3d effect is fine, but there are sound errors because of DTS. With an ordinary BD 3D in my PS4 Pro it's all working really nice!
But i don't wanna use BD at all.


----------



## gollygosh

*Not sure if this review has already been posted - but here it is anyway*


----------



## rick4d

gollygosh said:


>


 Dude i posted this a few weeks ago...


----------



## ProjectionHead

*11/20/19 Optoma CinemaX P1 Update (please don't shoot the messenger):*


Optoma has just informed us that the upcoming Cinemax P1 shipment has been further delayed. This is a delay across the board, meaning no dealer will have this product for shipment in the originally anticipated timeline. 

The next anticipated shipment of P1 projectors will be at earliest the end of November and possibly as late as Mid-December.

Optoma will not provide any official statement in regards to this delay, only that no dealer expecting stock from this November’s shipment will be receiving any.

As of this posting, you can no longer order this unit from Amazon or BestBuy, however other specialty retailers are still accepting orders.

*Double Whammy: The price of the P1 projector will be going up in December.*

This price increase is across the board from all dealers, as Optoma has raised both the MAP price as well as the dealer cost.

The final price has not yet been published, but you should expect it to be several hundred dollars more expensive.

Further updates regarding availability and pricing will be updated real-time on ProjectorScreen as it becomes available from Optoma.


----------



## imhotep6

ProjectionHead said:


> *11/20/19 Optoma CinemaX P1 Update (please don't shoot the messenger):*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Optoma has just informed us that the upcoming Cinemax P1 shipment has been further delayed. This is a delay across the board, meaning no dealer will have this product for shipment in the originally anticipated timeline.
> 
> 
> 
> The next anticipated shipment of P1 projectors will be at earliest the end of November and possibly as late as Mid-December.
> 
> 
> 
> Optoma will not provide any official statement in regards to this delay, only that no dealer expecting stock from this November’s shipment will be receiving any.
> 
> 
> 
> As of this posting, you can no longer order this unit from Amazon or BestBuy, however other specialty retailers are still accepting orders.
> 
> 
> 
> *Double Whammy: The price of the P1 projector will be going up in December.*
> 
> 
> 
> This price increase is across the board from all dealers, as Optoma has raised both the MAP price as well as the dealer cost.
> 
> 
> 
> The final price has not yet been published, but you should expect it to be several hundred dollars more expensive.
> 
> 
> 
> Further updates regarding availability and pricing will be updated real-time on ProjectorScreen as it becomes available from Optoma.




Thanks for the update. Sucks but nothing can be done about it. Just to confirm, those with a preorder will not see a price increase those that order after the next release will see a price increase correct? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

Another demo, this time recorded in 4K: https://youtu.be/p19GHaf9EQ4


----------



## ProjectionHead

imhotep6 said:


> Thanks for the update. Sucks but nothing can be done about it. Just to confirm, those with a preorder will not see a price increase those that order after the next release will see a price increase correct?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I guess it depends on who you ordered it from. I know that ProjectorScreen is honoring all prices from when the order was placed, regardless of backorder status.


----------



## freejak13

As an owner of the first batch of units, this doesn't sound good at all. Perhaps they discovered an issue and are now making hardware changes which is affecting production cost.


----------



## ProjectionHead

freejak13 said:


> As an owner of the first batch of units, this doesn't sound good at all. Perhaps they discovered an issue and are now making hardware changes which is affecting production cost.


While I cannot provide further detail about the delay, I do know it has nothing to do with hardware updates/changes.
The price change is a result of the increased tariffs imposed on Chinese made goods to the USA


----------



## g4s

ProjectionHead said:


> *11/20/19 Optoma CinemaX P1 Update (please don't shoot the messenger):*
> 
> 
> Optoma has just informed us that the upcoming Cinemax P1 shipment has been further delayed. This is a delay across the board, meaning no dealer will have this product for shipment in the originally anticipated timeline.
> 
> The next anticipated shipment of P1 projectors will be at earliest the end of November and possibly as late as Mid-December.
> 
> Optoma will not provide any official statement in regards to this delay, only that no dealer expecting stock from this November’s shipment will be receiving any.
> 
> As of this posting, you can no longer order this unit from Amazon or BestBuy, however other specialty retailers are still accepting orders.
> 
> *Double Whammy: The price of the P1 projector will be going up in December.*
> 
> This price increase is across the board from all dealers, as Optoma has raised both the MAP price as well as the dealer cost.
> 
> The final price has not yet been published, but you should expect it to be several hundred dollars more expensive.
> 
> Further updates regarding availability and pricing will be updated real-time on ProjectorScreen as it becomes available from Optoma.


I feel lucky to have gotten one from the first batch. Even received my $200 Visa credit today for my review.


----------



## Casepb

So with the price increase coming I guess the big question will be, is this projector really worth $4000 after taxes? I'm thinking maybe not, unless they can get the input lag and other issues fixed.


----------



## imhotep6

ProjectionHead said:


> I guess it depends on who you ordered it from. I know that ProjectorScreen is honoring all prices from when the order was placed, regardless of backorder status.




Yep. I ordered through Projectorscreen.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Posaidon

Chrisb710 said:


> I've finally made. These options are only available while a movie is running.
> Do you've got problems with 3D too?
> I can't watch longer than 5 minutes ... it hurts in my eyes. The picture isn't really sharp, can't discribe it exactly. I have tested it with Hishock DLP Pro.


Did you play the 3D disc or ISO? from BD player or play directly from the P1 through some app? On my unit, there's no such display mode as "3D" like what mentioned on the manual even the 3D video is playing. My setup is 3D ISO hosted on NAS, the movie is play through Kodi that installed on the P1. There's few 3D option on Kodi but none of them work when I try to toggle it one by one. I also tried to output the 3D video from Shield (through Kodi too) with display output set to 1080p on the Shield but ended with the same result. The video always output as 2D instead of 3D. I also turn off HDR option, all same result.


----------



## Posaidon

Wheres3d said:


> Playing 3D BD ISO (through Kodi) not working, image came out 2D only.
> 
> Make sure you set the shield to output 1080 and not 4k when you are playing 3d


I done that but nothing work. In fact, I also tested playing the ISO file directly from P1 through Kodi. Video was played through NAS/USB, it doesn't make any different on the result. So what could be wrong?


----------



## Posaidon

Kev1000000 said:


> Username checks out.


What do you mean by user name check out?


----------



## Posaidon

freejak13 said:


> As an owner of the first batch of units, this doesn't sound good at all. Perhaps they discovered an issue and are now making hardware changes which is affecting production cost.


When I purchased by unit (I'm the first batch customer in my country too, in fact I am probably the first one to bring back the unit from local distributor), I was told the price already been went up due to global shortage. As my unit, the price was locked down during pre-order so the local distributor stick the same price as what they has been quoted me. But anyone make the order after that will affect by the price increase. Not the hardware issue that affecting the cost, but the global demand since everyone is looking for cheaper solution than the expensive LG model !!! In my country, P1 is the only option as LG distributor doesn't have any interest to bring in any laser projector. I paid for hefty SGD5499 for my P1 (4K USD) !!!


----------



## Koeikan

Casepb said:


> So with the price increase coming I guess the big question will be, is this projector really worth $4000 after taxes? I'm thinking maybe not, unless they can get the input lag and other issues fixed.


Honestly... I didn't think it was worth $3600 (after taxes) and ended up returning it. I compared it side by side with a HT1085ST (new bulb, at least) and was underwhelmed... it was absolutely better, but nowhere near $3300 better, IMO. (selling my old projector for ~$300)

I tried it on two screens over the course of a couple weeks (120" 4k 'ready' 1.0 gain grey non ust screen and a 92" ust clr screen) and could not get uniform sharpness no matter how much I tinkered with it... I also couldn't get a straight line along the top of the image without using smart fit... it drooped in the center on both screens, even if moving the top of the image around relative to the rest of the screen, etc (+didn't have this issue with other short throw projectors and everything was level, tensioned, etc, etc). There were also a ton of software bugs (from apps ranging unstable and clunky to completely unusable to various image related glitches/flickering/etc), offset measurements were more than the range listed in the specs... and of course the input lag misinformation.

Coming from a 5 year old projector, it basically fell short or was a regression in all areas that I was hoping to see improvements in after upgrading... except probably for brightness... throw in the bugs/instability and it wasn't even a tough decision (and I almost never return stuff like this... I don't think I've ever returned a TV/monitor display before). ...and for all the space used for the speakers and the initial hype based on early access "reviews", I found that to be just above mediocre as well, contrasted against other projectors... not actual speaker setups (and not a wise use of space/resources at all, IMO... especially considering how not portable this particular projector is).

Anyway, I ended up deciding to rearrange the entire room based on this being such a flop and will be probably going with the an 82" Samsung Q90 instead of a projector. The thought that they are raising the price on this sounds kind of crazy (unless as someone else mentioned, they are fixing all the other issues and it resulted in a price increase, but somehow I doubt that is the case... given how a good chunk of the issues appear to be software based).


----------



## mlkconcept

Posaidon said:


> Did you play the 3D disc or ISO? from BD player or play directly from the P1 through some app? On my unit, there's no such display mode as "3D" like what mentioned on the manual even the 3D video is playing. My setup is 3D ISO hosted on NAS, the movie is play through Kodi that installed on the P1. There's few 3D option on Kodi but none of them work when I try to toggle it one by one. I also tried to output the 3D video from Shield (through Kodi too) with display output set to 1080p on the Shield but ended with the same result. The video always output as 2D instead of 3D. I also turn off HDR option, all same result.


To play full 3D ISO or MVC you need a special player like the Dune 4K Pro or the Zidoo. Shield and Kodi will not work with any tv or projector, only will do regular SBS or OU, not full 3D

Enviado desde mi SM-G950F mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Chrisb710

Posaidon said:


> Did you play the 3D disc or ISO? from BD player or play directly from the P1 through some app? On my unit, there's no such display mode as "3D" like what mentioned on the manual even the 3D video is playing. My setup is 3D ISO hosted on NAS, the movie is play through Kodi that installed on the P1. There's few 3D option on Kodi but none of them work when I try to toggle it one by one. I also tried to output the 3D video from Shield (through Kodi too) with display output set to 1080p on the Shield but ended with the same result. The video always output as 2D instead of 3D. I also turn off HDR option, all same result.



I tried ISO and MVC with USB Hard Disk directly through the P1 (in my case it's the UHZ65UST European Version).
It ends up with a good 3D picture, but an error with DTS, because the P1doesn't support it.
Next one was ISO and MVC from NAS with Plexserver, to Fire TV with Kodi (plexkodiconnect). 
It ends up with a top/bottom picture which i was able to set top/bottom in P1 3D Menü and from that point on the two frames were overlayd. So i putted on my 3D glasses and there was a 3D effect, but with huuuuge ghosting and blurr (not watchable for longer time).
Last but not least i tested my PS4 Pro with Plex through HDMI directly into the P1.
In this case i had the same top/bottom picture, but i can't get into the 3D menu from the P1, maybe because of a missing signal to make the 3D menu visible.

Hope you guys understand my 20years old school english 🙂


----------



## klas

wow $3300 + tax is already borderline expensive for most and it doesn't provide substantial gain from much cheaper Xiaomi or other Chinese offerings, so raising price is counter intuitive as competition heats up in UST market. It will be a nail in the coffin if the prices are going north for it...


----------



## Chapla1n

Price hike is enough for me to wait until CES next year, see what the options are then.


At this point I think I'd prefer a 3000 lumen 4k short throw, rather than a ust, so hoping BenQ delivers.


----------



## bjanssen

Chapla1n said:


> Price hike is enough for me to wait until CES next year, see what the options are then.
> 
> 
> At this point I think I'd prefer a 3000 lumen 4k short throw, rather than a ust, so hoping BenQ delivers.


Agreed, it was already a stretch at $4,000CAD and the input lag is enough of a deterrent on top of that. I'm sure there will be some new, more compelling options at CES.


----------



## Casepb

Chapla1n said:


> At this point I think I'd prefer a 3000 lumen 4k short throw, rather than a ust, so hoping BenQ delivers.


I feel the exact same way. I really just want a 4K version of the HT2150ST, which is what I have right now and love. Although the idea of having an ultra short throw is very nice, it would give me a good bit of space not needing a coffee table. I'm hoping BenQ will announce a 4K UST.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Wow... this thread was almost dead until recently. I hate to hear this kind of news as the P1 seemed to be UST answer everyone was looking for. Hopefully they'll be able to remedy the nagging issues and price point, but until then...

I'll grab my popcorn


----------



## Chapla1n

Casepb said:


> I feel the exact same way. I really just want a 4K version of the HT2150ST



Yep, that would be nice, and a bit brighter. Though I am really starting to value the 0.69 - 0.83:1 throw ratio from the W1080ST I have, 120" from 6'.


----------



## bennutt

Posaidon said:


> What do you mean by user name check out?




He was making a crack about a user named Where’s3D giving advice on making 3D work.
I smiled.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## moctodavs

Casey_Bryson said:


> Wow... this thread was almost dead until recently. I hate to hear this kind of news as the P1 seemed to be UST answer everyone was looking for. Hopefully they'll be able to remedy the nagging issues and price point, but until then...
> 
> I'll grab my popcorn


Is price hike real? Possibly a ploy to get people to snatch up existing P1 units in the market?


----------



## ProjectionHead

moctodavs said:


> Is price hike real? Possibly a ploy to get people to snatch up existing P1 units in the market?


It's real. No dealer with any P1s available (if there are even any) are trying to cause a rush for them to get snatched up. These things are super back ordered and that won't get resolved for likely another 2 months.

All direct dealers were emailed a list of items that will be experiencing a price increase (P1, UHD65, UHZ65 and several other units) in December, but the December finalized pricing has not yet been released.

If you are unsure if it's real; go place an order with someone. You will very likely be on a backorder until after the price change goes into effect so you can likely cancel anytime before you receive it with no risk.

I would definitely suggest buying/reserving/backordering it before the end of the month if you are on the fence and don't want to pay the increased price.


----------



## klas

ProjectionHead said:


> It's real. No dealer with any P1s available (if there are even any) are trying to cause a rush for them to get snatched up. These things are super back ordered and that won't get resolved for likely another 2 months.
> 
> All direct dealers were emailed a list of items that will be experiencing a price increase (P1, UHD65, UHZ65 and several other units) in December, but the December finalized pricing has not yet been released.
> 
> If you are unsure if it's real; go place an order with someone. You will very likely be on a backorder until after the price change goes into effect so you can likely cancel anytime before you receive it with no risk.
> 
> I would definitely suggest buying/reserving/backordering it before the end of the month if you are on the fence and don't want to pay the increased price.


Clearly they have parts supplier or manufacturing issues and they are trying to make up the loss for it by passing it on to a customer.


----------



## bix26

Casepb said:


> I feel the exact same way. I really just want a 4K version of the HT2150ST, which is what I have right now and love. Although the idea of having an ultra short throw is very nice, it would give me a good bit of space not needing a coffee table. I'm hoping BenQ will announce a 4K UST.




They have, still who knows how long it will be until it’s out. Plus the price is closer to $5,000.


BenQ(明基)i960L/i965L 4K Laser UST
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...ad.php?t=3099780&share_type=t&link_source=app


----------



## copperfield74

*3D Settings*

Today I tried once again some 3D content but I'm not satisfied with the results.
To play 3D content from the NAS you have to disable HDR on the projector. As soon I disable HDR the picture quality is way to dark. And just raising the brigtness doesn't do the job.
I'm still waiting for the calibration sheet from my dealer. Do you have the same problems turning off HDR in the settings?


UPDATE:
I've tried opening the movies from my NAS within the media player of Optoma! Some worked some not.
Then I tried playing them from external HDD with the internal player. This worked without any problems. I hadn't have to turn off HDR anymore and so the brightness was exactly how it has to be.
Now I'm copying some 3D movies on my external HDD that caused some errors via network and the media player. Maybe they will work, I'll see in a few minutes. Hope this helps you guys out there that have equal problems.


UPDATE 2:
The movies are played from the external HDD BUT without sound. It looks like the media player can't handle DTS audio!


UPDATE 3:
HEUREKA!!!!! I think I've found the problem. I use KODI on an Amazon Fire TV Stick 4K. You can't watch any 3D movies if HDR is used or 4K!!!!! My Fire TV IS ALWAYS displayed as [email protected] HDR(4K), and it doesn't change even if I watch 1080p movies. I've already tried to change the settings of my fire tv but it won't change the output to the input resolution. That's the reason why I wasn't able to watch my 3D movies with Kodi. After I changed the complete output of my fire tv to [email protected] and changed the HDR to adaptiv it was no problem anymore. Now I can watch my movies without the problem of deactivating HDR within the projector. Now I only have to find out how I can get my fire tv to change the solution as soon I play 3D or FHD movies. Any ideas????


----------



## gollygosh

So any chance you can tell the rest of us if the 3d on this projector is any good 


Also people here might find this useful :-


https://www.hometheaterforum.com/epv-introduces-light-rejecting-ust-projection-screen/


----------



## copperfield74

gollygosh said:


> So any chance you can tell the rest of us if the 3d on this projector is any good
> 
> 
> Also people here might find this useful :-
> 
> 
> https://www.hometheaterforum.com/epv-introduces-light-rejecting-ust-projection-screen/


 Before I've bought the UHZ65UST I had an 55" LG Full HD TV with 3D. I really enjoyed the 3D on my TV. Tonight I gave my wife the glasses to check it out, and she said that it looks better than our LG TV. The 3D effects are really good but with our LG we could alter the depth of the 3D effect which was a nice feature. Now after finding the workaround to watch 3D I really enjoy the bright and clear picure.
So to answer your question: YES, THE 3D IS GOOD IF YOU KNOW HOW TO PLAY IT! ;-)


----------



## gollygosh

What was your old TV (OLED - LG E6 etc), also what type of screen are you using (ALR etc) + size and what do you think of the overall picture quality and contrast etc compared to your old TV in day and night conditions 


WE ALL WANT TO KNOW.... not many people have this model yet and there have been no real reviews of it, so we need owneres to speak up... thanks for your time.


----------



## copperfield74

gollygosh said:


> What was your old TV (OLED - LG E6 etc), also what type of screen are you using (ALR etc) + size and what do you think of the overall picture quality and contrast etc compared to your old TV in day and night conditions
> 
> 
> WE ALL WANT TO KNOW.... not many people have this model yet and there have been no real reviews of it, so we need owneres to speak up... thanks for your time.



I've had a LG Cinema 3D 55LM660S-ZA. I was really satisfied with its perfomance but the size was too small. I already have a cinema room in the basement but sometimes it's nice to watch movies in the living room.


I have a 100" ALR PET Crystal XY-Screen and I really love it. The picture quality at night is really great. It's really a big leap from Full HD to this picture. At day it's still a good picture but I would lie to you if I'd say that it's still as clear as by night. The screen is right next to our biggest windows and so the light comes from the side not from the ceiling. Yes it does wash out a bit, but the problem with my TV was that there were a lot of reflections that were really annoying. It still has it's bugs like the problem with the 3D movies but I wouldn't want to miss it. Everyone that comes in our living room is blown away by the size and the picture quality. The projector has too many picture settings that a layman doesn't know how to handle. I'm still waiting for the calibration settings to get a more perfect picture. I'm sure that there is more to come if the calibration is perfect. But even without professional calibration it's eye candy to watch.


----------



## mjbok

The price hike, coupled with lack of stock and issues many people seem to be having ultimately are saving me about $4500. I suppose I should be thankful.


----------



## g4s

mjbok said:


> The price hike, coupled with lack of stock and issues many people seem to be having ultimately are saving me about $4500. I suppose I should be thankful.


I've got 585 hours on mine with no problems. As far as UST's go, I'm not sure what my second choice would be. Especially since this one only cost $3100 after the Optoma review rebate.


----------



## mjbok

g4s said:


> I've got 585 hours on mine with no problems. As far as UST's go, I'm not sure what my second choice would be. Especially since this one only cost $3100 after the Optoma review rebate.



Wow. Have you turned it off since you got it? On a more serious note where are you using this? I currently have three projectors in use at my house. Media room (mid range regular Optoma with a 120 inch image on a blank wall). Both my kids have UST's in their room or office as their default PC monitor. They're cheap UST's (about a grand each) and one went through a 3000 hour bulb damn quick.


I wanted this for my main TV room. I have the space for it, and while not light controlled it doesn't have any direct window light bleed to where it would go. I was on the fence about this because if you're going to spend $3300 on a projector, you need to drop at least a grand on the screen otherwise what is the point.


The 3d thing is also a factor for me. I have about 200 3d blu-rays, and a couple dozen iso files on plex. They work great with the projector in the media room, but it sounds like it might be an issue on this projector.


----------



## Kdub69

Hi there,


I have the optoma p1 and I got the elunevision bundle from eastporters 100 inch ust throw screen. Screen looks great really happy with the p1 so far. I was using the p1 on a dark wall before it was decent but you can definitely see all the waves on the wall. The screen fixed that issue.

Just wondering if anyone has some tips on the fixed frame screen.
I had wrinkles in both corners before I took the screen apart and was able to retension one of the corners however the other diagonal wrinkle on the top right corner does not want to go away. Any tips or videos or tricks that can help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## g4s

mjbok said:


> Wow. Have you turned it off since you got it? On a more serious note where are you using this? I currently have three projectors in use at my house. Media room (mid range regular Optoma with a 120 inch image on a blank wall). Both my kids have UST's in their room or office as their default PC monitor. They're cheap UST's (about a grand each) and one went through a 3000 hour bulb damn quick.
> 
> 
> I wanted this for my main TV room. I have the space for it, and while not light controlled it doesn't have any direct window light bleed to where it would go. I was on the fence about this because if you're going to spend $3300 on a projector, you need to drop at least a grand on the screen otherwise what is the point.
> 
> 
> The 3d thing is also a factor for me. I have about 200 3d blu-rays, and a couple dozen iso files on plex. They work great with the projector in the media room, but it sounds like it might be an issue on this projector.


Yeah, I think it was showing about 75hrs when I got it. Earlier in the thread there was mention of factory burnin without reseting the hours on the first batch. I got it on 10/8. It's our main TV. I wound up getting an XY PET Crystal 120". There's some windows in here, not a problem. Looks like a giant flat panel tv day or night. Not sure about 3D playback.


----------



## Kdub69

Hi everyone,


Just got my optoma p1 gift card unfortunately its in usd and says I can only use it in the states anyone else in canada having the same issues? Is there a work around? Can I buy something from amazon.com and ship to canada?


----------



## Alexander Sidorov

I'm new to UST projectors and currently leaning to Xiaomi 4k. Looks like a steal for the current price of $1700. I'm considering P1 as everybody is (was?) so excited about it but it's hard to justify the price difference. Is it really worth it? What do I really get for the extra 2-4 thousands (depending on the price you get P1 for)?


----------



## copperfield74

Alexander Sidorov said:


> I'm new to UST projectors and currently leaning to Xiaomi 4k. Looks like a steal for the current price of $1700. I'm considering P1 as everybody is (was?) so excited about it but it's hard to justify the price difference. Is it really worth it? What do I really get for the extra 2-4 thousands (depending on the price you get P1 for)?


If you’re interested in a real warranty I would consider buying the P1. 
It seems that the Xiaomi has a lot of problems starting with coil whine going to unwatchable 3D and lot of other problems. 
I also think that the Firmware updates will be better with Optoma. 
But if you are willing to take the risk the Xiaomi seems to deliver a real good picture.


----------



## Chris Zhao

Kdub69 said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> 
> Just got my optoma p1 gift card unfortunately its in usd and says I can only use it in the states anyone else in canada having the same issues? Is there a work around? Can I buy something from amazon.com and ship to canada?


we are in the same situation, I got the solution. go to amazon.com buy a 200 amazon egift card. your visa card name enter "Gift card recipient" 
then top up your amazon us account. make a purchese ship to canada.


----------



## Kdub69

Chris Zhao said:


> Kdub69 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> 
> Just got my optoma p1 gift card unfortunately its in usd and says I can only use it in the states anyone else in canada having the same issues? Is there a work around? Can I buy something from amazon.com and ship to canada?
> 
> 
> 
> we are in the same situation, I got the solution. go to amazon.com buy a 200 amazon egift card. your visa card name enter "Gift card recipient"
> then top up your amazon us account. make a purchese ship to canada.
Click to expand...


Awesome tips!


----------



## jmg999

I have a bright open space living room with floor to ceiling windows as a side "wall" but with sun blocking hotel curtains.


My starting point was a long throw projector and after a shop shootout the sweetspot for me seems to be the Epson 5050UB (TW9400 EU model) + ALR screen (DNP Supernova 0.8gain 1st choice but Parallax or Black Diamond would work great too). My room preferences will not justify to step up to native 4k Sony or JVC while it justifies the major cost for a high quality fixed frame ALR screen. With that said, really into the idea of a UST projector. Balanced viewing between movies, series and sports.



*So, what gives the best result in a bright open space livingroom, Optoma P1 (UHZ65UST EU model) + UST ALR screen or Epson 5050UB + ALR screen?*


----------



## Kev1000000

jmg999 said:


> I have a bright open space living room with floor to ceiling windows as a side "wall" but with sun blocking hotel curtains.
> 
> 
> My starting point was a long throw projector and after a shop shootout the sweetspot for me seems to be the Epson 5050UB (TW9400 EU model) + ALR screen (DNP Supernova 0.8gain 1st choice but Parallax or Black Diamond would work great too). My room preferences will not justify to step up to native 4k Sony or JVC while it justifies the major cost for a high quality fixed frame ALR screen. With that said, really into the idea of a UST projector. Balanced viewing between movies, series and sports.
> 
> 
> 
> *So, what gives the best result in a bright open space livingroom, Optoma P1 (UHZ65UST EU model) + UST ALR screen or Epson 5050UB + ALR screen?*


I just switched from a Epson 5040 with DNP 0.8 gain to The P1 with 0.6 gain ALR screen and I find the UST+ALR combo to be better with living room viewing. When the lights go down though, the Epson 5040 did better.


----------



## HiDyRa

Koeikan said:


> Anyway, I ended up deciding to rearrange the entire room based on this being such a flop and will be probably going with the an 82" Samsung Q90 instead of a projector.



I did this. I was really looking forward to the P1 and pairing it with a good ALR screen.
Unfortunately the stock problems, price increases and user reported performance issues have soured my enthusiasm. I currently have another Optoma which has had endless bulb issues its whole life and their tech support has been terrible. So I feel like I dodged a bullet here.
Very happy with my alternative choice. Best of luck with yours - don't forget a reliable warranty.


----------



## g4s

HiDyRa said:


> I did this. I was really looking forward to the P1 and pairing it with a good ALR screen.
> Unfortunately the stock problems, price increases and user reported performance issues have soured my enthusiasm. I currently have another Optoma which has had endless bulb issues its whole life and their tech support has been terrible. So I feel like I dodged a bullet here.
> Very happy with my alternative choice. Best of luck with yours - don't forget a reliable warranty.


What did you get?


----------



## mryang_sweden

Kev1000000 said:


> I just switched from a Epson 5040 with DNP 0.8 gain to The P1 with 0.6 gain ALR screen and I find the UST+ALR combo to be better with living room viewing. When the lights go down though, the Epson 5040 did better.


In a dark room - how much of a difference between the 5040 for general movie viewing would you say? Are there any areas where you find the P1 better in picture?
Are you still happy with your purchase?

Thanks in advance for any comments, as I am just choosing between the 5050/9400 and the P1.


----------



## Kev1000000

mryang_sweden said:


> In a dark room - how much of a difference between the 5040 for general movie viewing would you say? Are there any areas where you find the P1 better in picture?
> Are you still happy with your purchase?
> 
> Thanks in advance for any comments, as I am just choosing between the 5050/9400 and the P1.


In a dark room, the 5040 won in pretty much every category, except maybe sharpness and HDR handling. But peak brightness (probably because of the 0.8 gain vs 0.6 and I increased 20" in screen size from the 5040 to the P1), contrast, and color accuracy were better on the 5040 when the lights are off. Dark scenes were handled much better on the 5040 as well.

However, traditional throw ALR screens aren't as good as lenticular UST screens for overhead lighting, and the P1 + ALR makes even the brightest overhead lights a non issue. I just hosted our Thanksgiving dinner last night and everyone thought I had a 120" TV, not a projector, because even with all of the lights on, it looked incredible.

The P1 is a much better setup for a living room since it can deal with ambient light better, you don't have to mount a projector, and you won't walk in front of the light path and blind you or your guests. The Epson 5040 is better (not necessarily much though) in a traditional setup where you can control the lights.

So it really comes down to what you value more. If it's PQ over all else, go with Epson. If it's trying to make a living room setup work, I'd go with the P1 + ALR.


----------



## mryang_sweden

Kev1000000 said:


> In a dark room, the 5040 won in pretty much every category, except maybe sharpness and HDR handling. But peak brightness (probably because of the 0.8 gain vs 0.6 and I increased 20" in screen size from the 5040 to the P1), contrast, and color accuracy were better on the 5040 when the lights are off. Dark scenes were handled much better on the 5040 as well.
> 
> However, traditional throw ALR screens aren't as good as lenticular UST screens for overhead lighting, and the P1 + ALR makes even the brightest overhead lights a non issue. I just hosted our Thanksgiving dinner last night and everyone thought I had a 120" TV, not a projector, because even with all of the lights on, it looked incredible.
> 
> The P1 is a much better setup for a living room since it can deal with ambient light better, you don't have to mount a projector, and you won't walk in front of the light path and blind you or your guests. The Epson 5040 is better (not necessarily much though) in a traditional setup where you can control the lights.
> 
> So it really comes down to what you value more. If it's PQ over all else, go with Epson. If it's trying to make a living room setup work, I'd go with the P1 + ALR.


Thanks for a thorough answer, appreciate it a lot.

Even though I'm sure - like you confirmed - that the 5050 will win any picture quality contest, the reason I'm looking at the P1 at all is because of 8 million pixels on screen and ease of installation / no shadows. If the P1 comes close and the picture quality is watchable for you, then I will probably go with the P1 as well. The thought of having that crisp sharpness appeals to me a lot and I can live with some loss in color accuracy and worse black levels.

The daytime viewing possibilites is just a bonus to me - During the summer, I'm out hiking and in the winter, it gets dark from 15:00


----------



## Kev1000000

mryang_sweden said:


> Thanks for a thorough answer, appreciate it a lot.
> 
> Even though I'm sure - like you confirmed - that the 5050 will win any picture quality contest, the reason I'm looking at the P1 at all is because of 8 million pixels on screen and ease of installation / no shadows. If the P1 comes close and the picture quality is watchable for you, then I will probably go with the P1 as well. The thought of having that crisp sharpness appeals to me a lot and I can live with some loss in color accuracy and worse black levels.
> 
> The daytime viewing possibilites is just a bonus to me - During the summer, I'm out hiking and in the winter, it gets dark from 15:00


Oh, the P1 is certainly watchable. The fact it even comes close to the 5040 (which is one of the best valued long throw projectors) is pretty great. All things considered, I prefer my new setup with the P1 over my old. The laser light source is great, too!


----------



## HiDyRa

g4s said:


> What did you get?



75" Q80 (but thinking about a black friday swap with the Q90 - great prices!)


----------



## jmg999

Kev1000000 said:


> I just switched from a Epson 5040 with DNP 0.8 gain to The P1 with 0.6 gain ALR screen and I find the UST+ALR combo to be better with living room viewing. When the lights go down though, the Epson 5040 did better.



*Thanks, excellent feedback x2!*



_Will save me a decent amount of money and no need for contractors to tear the room apart for hidden cabling etc. As a "bonus" it puts the screen format decision to a rest. For long throw I was leaning towards the Cinemascope 21:9 142" DNP which is almost the same height as their 16:9 120" but that's another +$2k in Sweden where I live. Only drawback is my local A/V dealer (best in Sweden) don't seem to carry UST stuff and I hate to have wasted their time after the great service, comittment and demoing from them._

_Currently running a project in Guangzhou so stopped by the XYscreen factory the other day to check out their different screens and met with their sales and R&D Mgr. All their screen options boiled down to two options, PET Crystal for UST and Black Crystal for long throw but while the PET Crystal seems to be good quality the Black Crystal isn't even close to DNP 08-85.
_
Given that I've never seen any high quality UST ALR screens from DNP, Parallax or SI and that you seem to have similar taste, *may I ask which UST ALR screen you bought?*

-Sorry for hijacking this thread, will focus on the P1 once this is cleared-


----------



## solal-

Hi,


I just got my nvidia shield and it seems I only can get the projector to got in 10bits mode when I use 4k resolution @60hz or @50hz when I set it to @25hz or @30Hz even if the shield output 10 or 12bits it goes back to 8 bits mode. Is it the same for you ? 



I already asked but does some of you use special calibration settings ? I would like to have different opinion on what settings people use, as I think the images by default is not well calibrated


----------



## mryang_sweden

jmg999 said:


> *Thanks, excellent feedback x2!*
> 
> 
> 
> _Will save me a decent amount of money and no need for contractors to tear the room apart for hidden cabling etc. As a "bonus" it puts the screen format decision to a rest. For long throw I was leaning towards the Cinemascope 21:9 142" DNP which is almost the same height as their 16:9 120" but that's another +$2k in Sweden where I live. Only drawback is my local A/V dealer (best in Sweden) don't seem to carry UST stuff and I hate to have wasted their time after the great service, comittment and demoing from them._
> 
> _Currently running a project in Guangzhou so stopped by the XYscreen factory the other day to check out their different screens and met with their sales and R&D Mgr. All their screen options boiled down to two options, PET Crystal for UST and Black Crystal for long throw but while the PET Crystal seems to be good quality the Black Crystal isn't even close to DNP 08-85.
> _
> Given that I've never seen any high quality UST ALR screens from DNP, Parallax or SI and that you seem to have similar taste, *may I ask which UST ALR screen you bought?*
> 
> -Sorry for hijacking this thread, will focus on the P1 once this is cleared-


Did you see the XYscreen and the DNP side by side? Was it the new Supernova STW?
What projector was used for the demo?


----------



## roodof

if the optoma p1 can be behind the screen to project the image how does a ust/alr screen work then? would it have to be two-sided?


----------



## Kev1000000

jmg999 said:


> *Thanks, excellent feedback x2!*
> 
> 
> 
> _Will save me a decent amount of money and no need for contractors to tear the room apart for hidden cabling etc. As a "bonus" it puts the screen format decision to a rest. For long throw I was leaning towards the Cinemascope 21:9 142" DNP which is almost the same height as their 16:9 120" but that's another +$2k in Sweden where I live. Only drawback is my local A/V dealer (best in Sweden) don't seem to carry UST stuff and I hate to have wasted their time after the great service, comittment and demoing from them._
> 
> _Currently running a project in Guangzhou so stopped by the XYscreen factory the other day to check out their different screens and met with their sales and R&D Mgr. All their screen options boiled down to two options, PET Crystal for UST and Black Crystal for long throw but while the PET Crystal seems to be good quality the Black Crystal isn't even close to DNP 08-85.
> _
> Given that I've never seen any high quality UST ALR screens from DNP, Parallax or SI and that you seem to have similar taste, *may I ask which UST ALR screen you bought?*
> 
> -Sorry for hijacking this thread, will focus on the P1 once this is cleared-


I purchased the Viewsonic BCP 120, which I think is a re-branded DNP ALR screen. For the price, it's awesome. Perfectly smooth with no artifacts. It's even more artifact free than the DNP 08-85 which I had before, but it's also lower gain.


----------



## J Bone

solal- said:


> Hi,
> 
> 
> I just got my nvidia shield and it seems I only can get the projector to got in 10bits mode when I use 4k resolution @60hz or @50hz when I set it to @25hz or @30Hz even if the shield output 10 or 12bits it goes back to 8 bits mode. Is it the same for you ?
> 
> 
> 
> I already asked but does some of you use special calibration settings ? I would like to have different opinion on what settings people use, as I think the images by default is not well calibrated




I can confirm with you that I’m getting the same color gamut results on my Nvidia shield as well. At first I thought it was an issue with Plex/Kodi, but my color gamut readings are kind of all over the place with the different apps in my Nvidia shield.

In Plex
















I set my resolution settings to 4K 24Hz since I got tired of the blackout screen switching from 60Hz all the time. Although it’s set 12 bit, once HDR content is found it automatically registers 8 bit no matter what settings I choose.

In AmazonPrime








A similar case scenario takes place when watching HDR content and Amazon prime, although as you can see from this picture not only is it 8 bit but it also shows BT709 and SDR even though I have two other indications that prove it is HDR content.

So all in all I thought it was a limit possibly of the projector not able to accept HDR content out of the 8 bit range but once again I found another variable that shows otherwise

Panasonic UB820








Using 4K disk content on a high-quality UHD disc player, the Optoma P1 can accept the highest bit depth (12 bit YUV 4.4.4) HDR content.

The only thing I am scratching my head about now is the disc player is out putting BT 2020 for sure but the projector ever only displays BT 709 for all content. Both SDR and HDR.

Have any owners been able to ever display BT 2020?

I’m sure future updates are sure to come but all this stuff really has me scratching my head!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## J Bone

Well, it seems as though I found a simple fix for the Amazon prime SDR notification showing rather than HDR. I turned on the “match content color space” in the display settings of my Nvidia shield.










Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Christian Spiga

J Bone said:


> Well, it seems as though I found a simple fix for the Amazon prime SDR notification showing rather than HDR. I turned on the “match content color space” in the display settings of my Nvidia shield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Hi guys, i had a question for us.

I had the european version of P1, the UHZ65UST, i want to know if someone else had the same and whitch firmware version have.

I'm still at C11 and if i look for updates the projector did not find a new, but i see that someone had already the C12.

Thanks


----------



## solal-

Christian Spiga said:


> Hi guys, i had a question for us.
> 
> I had the european version of P1, the UHZ65UST, i want to know if someone else had the same and whitch firmware version have.
> 
> I'm still at C11 and if i look for updates the projector did not find a new, but i see that someone had already the C12.
> 
> Thanks



Hi Christian, I had the European version too and I have the C12 firmware (1.050 mo update), it add support for HLG and other improvement. It's a very long update that take like 20/30min, I talked about it, in a previous message.


----------



## solal-

J Bone said:


> I can confirm with you that I’m getting the same color gamut results on my Nvidia shield as well. At first I thought it was an issue with Plex/Kodi, but my color gamut readings are kind of all over the place with the different apps in my Nvidia shield.
> 
> In Plex
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I set my resolution settings to 4K 24Hz since I got tired of the blackout screen switching from 60Hz all the time. Although it’s set 12 bit, once HDR content is found it automatically registers 8 bit no matter what settings I choose.
> 
> In AmazonPrime
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A similar case scenario takes place when watching HDR content and Amazon prime, although as you can see from this picture not only is it 8 bit but it also shows BT709 and SDR even though I have two other indications that prove it is HDR content.
> 
> So all in all I thought it was a limit possibly of the projector not able to accept HDR content out of the 8 bit range but once again I found another variable that shows otherwise
> 
> Panasonic UB820
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using 4K disk content on a high-quality UHD disc player, the Optoma P1 can accept the highest bit depth (12 bit YUV 4.4.4) HDR content.
> 
> The only thing I am scratching my head about now is the disc player is out putting BT 2020 for sure but the projector ever only displays BT 709 for all content. Both SDR and HDR.
> 
> Have any owners been able to ever display BT 2020?
> 
> I’m sure future updates are sure to come but all this stuff really has me scratching my head!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



Thanks for your test. I never been able to display BT 2020, it always display BT 709 as far as I know (I even watch video and screenshoot in the test of the player to see if it was displayed). I will try other resolution test as I would like to have at least 10 bits @24 or @30Hz and not only @50hz & @60hz, it should be possible as you have 12 bits @24hz. Do you feel a difference when viewing a movie in 24 rather that 60 ? 

My nvdia shield goes to my amp but it's an denon avrx-2600 so it should support every HDR mode.



Also, on my PS4 even when HDR is activated it's always 8 bits too and I would like to know if it's possible to have 10bits.


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

solal- said:


> Thanks for your test. I never been able to display BT 2020, it always display BT 709 as far as I know (I even watch video and screenshoot in the test of the player to see if it was displayed). I will try other resolution test as I would like to have at least 10 bits @24 or @30Hz and not only @50hz & @60hz, it should be possible as you have 12 bits @24hz. Do you feel a difference when viewing a movie in 24 rather that 60 ?
> 
> My nvdia shield goes to my amp but it's an denon avrx-2600 so it should support every HDR mode.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, on my PS4 even when HDR is activated it's always 8 bits too and I would like to know if it's possible to have 10bits.


I think this is why I am not getting HLG from the Amazon Firestick 4K via the BBC IPlayer App. I think it needs to be BT 2020 and not BT 709...but the projector is always showing BT 709 and there is no way to manually change the colour space. 

Hopefully this get's fixed in an upcoming firmware release


----------



## Christian Spiga

solal- said:


> Hi Christian, I had the European version too and I have the C12 firmware (1.050 mo update), it add support for HLG and other improvement. It's a very long update that take like 20/30min, I talked about it, in a previous message.


Thanks a lot for the answer.
The problem is that mine is still at C11 and when i look for updates he said that the last version is installed.


----------



## usman1013

Hi guys I just saw this screen but I know nothing about the company. Would you guys recommend it? I've put the link below.

Link: https://www.dhinnovation.co.uk/prod...snel-ust-projection-screen/?utm_source=Google Shopping&utm_campaign=google shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=20462&gclid=Cj0KCQiAt_PuBRDcARIsAMNlBdpVZY6GG86PmDFGN3Uyy4YpKsvn0Qq8iAYn_cpVb1YhpQcq-kQlkjwaAgeJEALw_wcB


----------



## solal-

usman1013 said:


> Hi guys I just saw this screen but I know nothing about the company. Would you guys recommend it? I've put the link below.
> 
> Link: https://www.dhinnovation.co.uk/prod...snel-ust-projection-screen/?utm_source=Google Shopping&utm_campaign=google shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=20462&gclid=Cj0KCQiAt_PuBRDcARIsAMNlBdpVZY6GG86PmDFGN3Uyy4YpKsvn0Qq8iAYn_cpVb1YhpQcq-kQlkjwaAgeJEALw_wcB


I think post about screen, should be in an other thread, like thread related to UST screen, it will be more beneficial for everyone.


----------



## J Bone

solal- said:


> I think post about screen, should be in an other thread, like thread related to UST screen, it will be more beneficial for everyone.




Agreed. That being said, a fresnel design screen under 1000 British Pounds (approx. 1300 bucks for us state side) seems like a darn good deal just depending on shipping costs.

Also the fact if they would ship one for single order request rather than bulk only is another plus. Looks like they’re offering a display in the show room. Hopefully someone in the UK can make a trip to check it out and take some photos sometime. Just do post them in the UST Screen forum.


----------



## krazykozak

Kdub69 said:


> Awesome tips!


Hey kdub69

You must be one of the first to have the P1 in Canada. What day did you have to pre-order it in order to get it so fast?


----------



## chinmokutak

krazykozak said:


> Hey kdub69
> 
> You must be one of the first to have the P1 in Canada. What day did you have to pre-order it in order to get it so fast?


I got it on Oct 7th so I'm sure there are tons of them out there.


----------



## chinmokutak

Chris Zhao said:


> we are in the same situation, I got the solution. go to amazon.com buy a 200 amazon egift card. your visa card name enter "Gift card recipient"
> then top up your amazon us account. make a purchese ship to canada.


I'm on the same boat, got $200, but says USD only, but why can't I directly use the gift card on Amazon?


----------



## krazykozak

chinmokutak said:


> I got it on Oct 7th so I'm sure there are tons of them out there.


ordered on aug 19th - still waiting


----------



## chinmokutak

krazykozak said:


> ordered on aug 19th - still waiting


Oh wow, who did you order from? 
I ordered it on Mid-August as well, and the retailer had it ready for me to pick up on Oct 7th. I'm thinking the retailor may not have received the first sets of products


----------



## chinmokutak

I don't know if this is plex issue or issue with P1, but I always find that when I'm playing remux file with PGS subtitle / and TrueHD 7.1, plex not only converts, it also turns off HDR.
For some reason I can't watch a movie without subtitle, so I always have to look for SRT, and remember to change audio, it's very annoying...
is this a limitation of P1 or limitation of plex?


----------



## ProjectionHead

klas said:


> Clearly they have parts supplier or manufacturing issues and they are trying to make up the loss for it by passing it on to a customer.


They state the price increase is due to the tariffs imposed on the importation of Chinese goods. It's not just the P1 increasing, it's their entire line. 

I disagree that it is clearly as result of supply or manufacturing issues.


----------



## J Bone

chinmokutak said:


> I don't know if this is plex issue or issue with P1, but I always find that when I'm playing remux file with PGS subtitle / and TrueHD 7.1, plex not only converts, it also turns off HDR.
> 
> For some reason I can't watch a movie without subtitle, so I always have to look for SRT, and remember to change audio, it's very annoying...
> 
> is this a limitation of P1 or limitation of plex?


If I understand this correctly, I may be having the same issue as you but with Plex on any device in my home. So I don't believe it's a limit of the P1.

If you are using a Direct Play method, I find plex is able to easily buffer any HDR content regardless of the file size. But if there are "forced subtitles" that I wish to apply through the settings it acts like it needs to re transcode the entire video to add it in and HDR content buffers constantly. For a resolution I've been using handbrake or staxrip to remux the video and audio while applying burn in subtitles for "forced subtitles" on foreign dialogue. That way I don't have to pick an SRT file from the settings in Plex. It's already part of the original video.

It's a fix for three devices including the P1. So again I know it's not a limit of the P1 per say.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## J Bone

J Bone said:


> If I understand this correctly, I may be having the same issue as you but with Plex on any device in my home. So I don't believe it's a limit of the P1.
> 
> If you are using a Direct Play method, I find plex is able to easily buffer any HDR content regardless of the file size. But if there are "forced subtitles" that I wish to apply through the settings it acts like it needs to re transcode the entire video to add it in and HDR content buffers constantly. For a resolution I've been using handbrake or staxrip to remux the video and audio while applying burn in subtitles for "forced subtitles" on foreign dialogue. That way I don't have to pick an SRT file from the settings in Plex. It's already part of the original video.
> 
> It's a fix for three devices including the P1. So again I know it's not a limit of the P1 per say.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Then again I might have spoken too soon and may need to expand.

I am using Plex via the Nvidia Shield for processing and transcoding via Direct Play. If you are using the Plex app from the marketplace in the P1 it could absolutely be a limit or a handshake issue with the app itself in the P1.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Christian Spiga

*My UHZ65UST didn't find the C12 Firmware*

Hi guys, someone of you know if exist a kinf of hard reset on the P1 / UHZ65UST.

When i try to look for system update he answer that already is installed the newer version, but i know for sure that the newer is not the C11 like he said, because someone of you had the C12 installed.

I had some problem to solve, for example i'm using a Firestick 4K, but to see content in HDR I must set the Firestick 4K Dinamic Range in "Always HDR", but like this some content are over exposed. If I choose "Adaptive" when i play HDR content go out every time in SDR. Only if i use the internal movie player i can see HDR content.

I ask also to the support at Optoma Europe but seems like they don't know nothing about this new projector.

For info i buy it in Germany, i ordered the 26 of October and received the 12 of November.


----------



## solal-

Christian Spiga said:


> Hi guys, someone of you know if exist a kinf of hard reset on the P1 / UHZ65UST.
> 
> When i try to look for system update he answer that already is installed the newer version, but i know for sure that the newer is not the C11 like he said, because someone of you had the C12 installed.
> 
> I had some problem to solve, for example i'm using a Firestick 4K, but to see content in HDR I must set the Firestick 4K Dinamic Range in "Always HDR", but like this some content are over exposed. If I choose "Adaptive" when i play HDR content go out every time in SDR. Only if i use the internal movie player i can see HDR content.
> 
> I ask also to the support at Optoma Europe but seems like they don't know nothing about this new projector.
> 
> For info i buy it in Germany, i ordered the 26 of October and received the 12 of November.



Beside checking if your internet connection from the projector is ok, i don't know why you can do. 

When you do the C12 update, at the differences with the C11 there is two update, first it update the system, then the projector ask you if you want to do a longer update then the projector reboot and update itself but with the display off (and you can choose to make it play a music during the update or not).


Since I have updated to C12 I have some time, the "half screen" bug (half of the screen have different color tone), if I switch to the projector home then switch back to the hdmi input it stop, but the bug didn't appear frequently.


----------



## solal-

solal- said:


> Thanks for your test. I never been able to display BT 2020, it always display BT 709 as far as I know (I even watch video and screenshoot in the test of the player to see if it was displayed). I will try other resolution test as I would like to have at least 10 bits @24 or @*30Hz* and not only @50hz & @60hz, it should be possible as you have 12 bits @24hz. Do you feel a difference when viewing a movie in 24 rather that 60 ?
> 
> My nvdia shield goes to my amp but it's an denon avrx-2600 so it should support every HDR mode.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, on my PS4 even when HDR is activated it's always 8 bits too and I would like to know if it's possible to have 10bits.



I found that if I force my PS4 to be in 4k resolution YUV, the projector display that I'm in 12bits @ 60hz (420) HDR, if I let the ps4 in automatic mode it switch to 4k RGB 8 bits.


----------



## solal-

solal- said:


> I found that if I force my PS4 to be in 4k resolution YUV, the projector display that I'm in 12bits @ 60hz (420) HDR, if I let the ps4 in automatic mode it switch to 4k RGB 8 bits.


It's certainly an EDID problem, must test to see if it happen without my amp between the PS4 and the projector, or optoma maybe have to fix the EDID. Normally the playstation in automatic mode will choose RGB 422 for non HDR format and YUV 420 for HDR format if the screen/projector is compatible because it's an 2.0 HDMI output so it didn't have enough bandwith to support better HDR format (like RGB 10bits)


----------



## Christian Spiga

solal- said:


> Beside checking if your internet connection from the projector is ok, i don't know why you can do.
> 
> When you do the C12 update, at the differences with the C11 there is two update, first it update the system, then the projector ask you if you want to do a longer update then the projector reboot and update itself but with the display off (and you can choose to make it play a music during the update or not).
> 
> 
> Since I have updated to C12 I have some time, the "half screen" bug (half of the screen have different color tone), if I switch to the projector home then switch back to the hdmi input it stop, but the bug didn't appear frequently.


Yeah, the internet connection is working, i can use installed app without problems.

Also another crazy bug is that if you don't set the projectori in English, you cannot set the time becasue when you change the DMT and arrive to the +3 it crash and you come back to the home.
So i put english, set the time, and change in italian.....ahahhaha crazy.

If someone is intrested i had also the parameter for the color calibration using an ALR screen made by the Heimkino that sell me the projector, the calibration was included in the services.


----------



## copperfield74

Christian Spiga said:


> Yeah, the internet connection is working, i can use installed app without problems.
> 
> Also another crazy bug is that if you don't set the projectori in English, you cannot set the time becasue when you change the DMT and arrive to the +3 it crash and you come back to the home.
> So i put english, set the time, and change in italian.....ahahhaha crazy.
> 
> If someone is intrested i had also the parameter for the color calibration using an ALR screen made by the Heimkino that sell me the projector, the calibration was included in the services.


I would be interested in the calibrating settings. 
Thanks!


----------



## solal-

Christian Spiga said:


> Yeah, the internet connection is working, i can use installed app without problems.
> 
> Also another crazy bug is that if you don't set the projectori in English, you cannot set the time becasue when you change the DMT and arrive to the +3 it crash and you come back to the home.
> So i put english, set the time, and change in italian.....ahahhaha crazy.
> 
> If someone is intrested i had also the parameter for the color calibration using an ALR screen made by the Heimkino that sell me the projector, the calibration was included in the services.


I have the same bug for the time but didn't think to try in english  

I'm interested by the color calibration even if I use a wall I will try to see what it look like, thank you.


----------



## Christian Spiga

solal- said:


> I have the same bug for the time but didn't think to try in english
> 
> I'm interested by the color calibration even if I use a wall I will try to see what it look like, thank you.


When i come back home i do some photos of the calibration papers that they give me and i post.


----------



## XeonA

Christian Spiga said:


> When i come back home i do some photos of the calibration papers that they give me and i post.


Hello, I am interested in the Optoma P1, I am interested to know how the PureMotion of the P1 is checked.
In 3D, P1 knows it's bad because it doesn't use PureMotion.
3D without FI is blood in my eyes for me

I have tested the 3D and PureMotion of the Optoma UHD370x and it is very bad in any position.
With Nvidia Shield and Panasonic 824 the movement without FI is very bad also in the UHD370x

With Nvidia Shield and Panasonic 824 on the Optoma HD50 the movement if FI is perfect.

In the Optoma HD50 the PureMotion and 3D is very much superior to the UHD370x
.
- The HD50 in 3D and PureMotion in Alto for me is perfect movement without artifacts.

-The HD50 in 2D / 3D conversion and PureMotion in Alto for me is perfect movement without artifacts.

Is it possible that due to the XPR to get 4k the movement has worsened?

Technology goes back instead of ahead.

How difficult is it to make an Optoma HD50 only in UHD?

The new Optoma UHD:
Movement - worse than the Optoma FHD.
3D - worse than Optoma FHD.
Contrast - worse than Optoma FHD.


----------



## XeonA

Christian Spiga I quoted him by mistake, sorry


----------



## tezster

Any P1 owners out there use the projector placed on top of a center channel? In my setup, I would basically be placing it on a mini-riser over the center speaker (which itself sits on a TV cabinet). The vertical offset/screen height is really my biggest issue - I don't have a problem with distance from the wall.

I've been entertaining the possibility of switching from my 75" LG to a UST in my living room, but I would really like to do so without changing my existing speaker configuration. I'm basically searching for a larger 3D-capable display, so flat panels aren't an option.


----------



## chinmokutak

tezster said:


> Any P1 owners out there use the projector placed on top of a center channel? In my setup, I would basically be placing it on a mini-riser over the center speaker (which itself sits on a TV cabinet). The vertical offset/screen height is really my biggest issue - I don't have a problem with distance from the wall.
> 
> I've been entertaining the possibility of switching from my 75" LG to a UST in my living room, but I would really like to do so without changing my existing speaker configuration. I'm basically searching for a larger 3D-capable display, so flat panels aren't an option.


you have it on top of center channel? aren't you having to look up then? I have it on the ground, and I found it perfect.


----------



## tezster

chinmokutak said:


> you have it on top of center channel? aren't you having to look up then? I have it on the ground, and I found it perfect.


I don't have one (yet), and was mulling over how it would work with a center channel setup.

In any case, I did a few more measurements, and decided that configuration just won't work.


----------



## g4s

tezster said:


> I don't have one (yet), and was mulling over how it would work with a center channel setup.
> 
> In any case, I did a few more measurements, and decided that configuration just won't work.


I made a small platform for my P1 and center channel. It's 2 1/2" tall. The speaker is raised 2 1/2" above that. There's plenty of room against the wall for a large center channel.


----------



## Christian Spiga

These are the calibrations setting.

I think is better if you set in Deutch the language so you find more easily the menus, and then you put back your favourite language


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

tezster said:


> I don't have one (yet), and was mulling over how it would work with a center channel setup.
> 
> In any case, I did a few more measurements, and decided that configuration just won't work.


The center speaker gave me a load of headaches thinking about how to position it....especially building up to getting the projector. Once I did get it the experiments began! To give some context the projector is on a cabinet 12 inches high (36 cm) and is projected to a 100 inch UST screen. Obviously there needs to be some space from the wall and it positioned below the screen...so I was hoping to do something similar as the photo above and have it against the wall positioned below the screen...but the depth of my speaker is just to darn wide and it blocked the light coming from the projector..so that option was ruled out.

My next idea was to get a mini table/platform and position it in front of the projector/cabinet.....I purchased one of these (about 3 inches from the ground) and found this to be a decent solution...but with the speaker so close to the floor it ended up getting on my nerves that the center speaker sound was coming from so low. 

Finally I decided to get a custom center speaker stand created that I have positioned again in front of the projector/cabinet that raises the height of the speaker to something more ear height. This solution I am very happy with, I have been able to position the center speaker slightly over the top of the projector and the height is ideal.

A big conundrum which was resolved in the end by a lot of trial and error.


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

Christian Spiga said:


> These are the calibrations setting.
> 
> I think is better if you set in Deutch the language so you find more easily the menus, and then you put back your favourite language


Interesting, I see that Dynamic Black is activated for both HD and 4K modes....for me I found Dynamic Black to mess around with the colours. But will give these settings a try once I translate them into english. Thanks for sharing


----------



## Christian Spiga

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> Interesting, I see that Dynamic Black is activated for both HD and 4K modes....for me I found Dynamic Black to mess around with the colours. But will give these settings a try once I translate them into english. Thanks for sharing


I Like to share knowledge, is the only way to arrive fast to a goal.

Niow i would like to solve this problem with my firmware update that don't find the C12 version.


----------



## copperfield74

I would like to know if the "light frame" around your screens is quite visible.
When I'm in a pitch black room I see the light frame all around the boarders but the picture fills the screen so I don't think that I have to get the projector closer to the screen.
Anyone out here with the same observations?


----------



## solal-

tezster said:


> Any P1 owners out there use the projector placed on top of a center channel? In my setup, I would basically be placing it on a mini-riser over the center speaker (which itself sits on a TV cabinet). The vertical offset/screen height is really my biggest issue - I don't have a problem with distance from the wall.
> 
> I've been entertaining the possibility of switching from my 75" LG to a UST in my living room, but I would really like to do so without changing my existing speaker configuration. I'm basically searching for a larger 3D-capable display, so flat panels aren't an option.



That's exactly what I did, I ask a carpenter to build a tailored raiser. I have woodwork on the wall so I need to have the images over it and then I calculated that by raising it a bit more I could put my central speaker under, before that I put under the cabinet but I was on the floor bellow sofa it's better like that as I have in front of me.


----------



## solal-

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> Interesting, I see that Dynamic Black is activated for both HD and 4K modes....for me I found Dynamic Black to mess around with the colours. But will give these settings a try once I translate them into english. Thanks for sharing



I agree, in HDR it's less visible but in other mode I generally disable dynamic black or at least put brilliant color to 1 but having the two make the color very unrealistic. I project on a white wall but I will try it too I hope it will help to have a better colorimetry . Before I had a sony with a dynamic focal when I used it, it was sometime to strong and the picture become very dark or very bright in few second but it didn't change the color and you can keep the reference mode, here with dynamic black what is strange is that it didn't change only the brightness but also the color, so I don't know how you can calibrate something with it activated. 



Also personally I found that puremotion make the motion totally unrealistic too and very strange to look at , so I always deactivate it (it was the same on my previous projector a sony and an other optoma so maybe it's a personal things).


----------



## tezster

g4s said:


> I made a small platform for my P1 and center channel. It's 2 1/2" tall. The speaker is raised 2 1/2" above that. There's plenty of room against the wall for a large center channel.


Interesting idea... two questions:

What screen size are you using for your projector?
What is the total depth of the setup in your picture, from the back of your center speaker to the back of the projector?


----------



## g4s

tezster said:


> Interesting idea... two questions:
> 
> What screen size are you using for your projector?
> What is the total depth of the setup in your picture, from the back of your center speaker to the back of the projector?


It's a 120" screen. From the back of the speaker to the back of the P1 is 30 3/4". I actually could have raised the speaker another couple inches without interfering with the projected image.


----------



## Kingofrice

I got the email notification today from Amazon that my order of Optoma P1 was shipped on the 29th. Is anybody here heard from Amazon too?


----------



## jmg999

You are lucky to have a confirmed shipping date. I ordered the UHZ65UST last week and still ETA Dec 06 - Dec 11. Have never seen such wide spread ETA before and since other shops here claim ETA Jan 2020 I'm starting to doubt about delivery before Christmas.


LG completely failed to pinpoint the sweetspot pricing for their HU85LA but why not just bite the bullet, settle with 4.4-4.7k EUR/USD and grab a big share of the Christmas and future sales instead of silly 6k and basically no sales? Almost makes me think they don't want to interfere with their current OLED sales. Credit to Optoma who seems to be right on the money with the P1/UHZ65UST pricing.


----------



## Kev1000000

Is anyone else getting washed out blacks using the latest nVidia Shield with non-HDR content? It appears it's sending 16-235 instead of full range (0-255) and the Optoma has no setting to change the input range, and the SHIELD won't let me either.


----------



## Dr.Savage

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Yes - we are working on a solution for 4K UHD and 1080p. We will work to provide info in the coming week or two.
> 
> Please be patient.


Unless I have missed some recent info, it has been a few weeks and wondering if you had any updates for us with possible gaming improvements. If no new news, I guess if there is a estimate of how much improvement we could see? For example, sub 30ms, sub 50ms, sub 80ms input lag is possible??? Current choice is LG 77" with sub 14ms lag with VRR vs Optoma 120" with ?ms lag. Also, I hope some company is planning a lower input lag (at least sub 30ms) UST projector with HDMA 2.1 feature set including ALLM, VRR and eARC. In a year or two that would be a major breakthrough and a gamer's dream.

Thank you


----------



## solal-

Kev1000000 said:


> Is anyone else getting washed out blacks using the latest nVidia Shield with non-HDR content? It appears it's sending 16-235 instead of full range (0-255) and the Optoma has no setting to change the input range, and the SHIELD won't let me either.


I'm using the shield 2019 without problem, just some time I have to switch the resolution manually when I've just watched a HDR 10 movie and switch to a non hdr one because the shield stay in 4K HDR, but it depend how you configure your shield


----------



## beisat

Is this pixelshift projector worth paying 2x price compared to the Xiaomi Mi 1080p projector? It's 1'400$ (Xiaomi Mi) vs 3'000$ (Optoma P1) here.
Is the projector completely unusable for games, or does it work ok for light gaming?

Reason I ask is that my Xiaomi Mi 1080p broke, and I'm not sure what to replace it with or just get the same thing again because their is not yet a clear upgrade path. 

Thanks


----------



## klas

beisat said:


> Is this pixelshift projector worth paying 2x price compared to the Xiaomi Mi 1080p projector? It's 1'400$ (Xiaomi Mi) vs 3'000$ (Optoma P1) here.
> Is the projector completely unusable for games, or does it work ok for light gaming?
> 
> Reason I ask is that my Xiaomi Mi 1080p broke, and I'm not sure what to replace it with or just get the same thing again because their is not yet a clear upgrade path.
> 
> Thanks


How did yours break? I have used 1080p Mi for a year and been quite impressed with it as 4k content looked excellent. For no real reason other then BF rush ordered VAVA as a replacement. I did also consider P1 even ordered it but it got delayed. Although from reading reviews I didn't feel like it was worth the $$$.


----------



## beisat

klas said:


> How did yours break? I have used 1080p Mi for a year and been quite impressed with it as 4k content looked excellent. For no real reason other then BF rush ordered VAVA as a replacement. I did also consider P1 even ordered it but it got delayed. Although from reading reviews I didn't feel like it was worth the $$$.


For the Mi 1080p, the DLP Chip is dying, I am seeing white pixels. Since I bought the Chinese one at the time, I don't have any support or guarantee unfortunately. And it seems impossible to find the chip (DLP4711FQL) for replacement. Hence I don't really feel like buying the same projector again (even if this time it would be the international Android Version with guarantee), but it still almost seems like the best price / performance candidate out there, excluding maybe this Optima P1. I'm not getting the Xiaomi 4k one from China (learned my lesson) and it's not available here as an international version.

Btw, the HDR from the Mi 1080p is a bit lacking in the displaying of grey I have heard, but haven't tested that yet because of no UHD to watch (yet). 

So for me, I must judge if this Optoma P1 is worth getting or if I must bite the bullet and get another Mi.


----------



## klas

beisat said:


> For the Mi 1080p, the DLP Chip is dying, I am seeing white pixels. Since I bought the Chinese one at the time, I don't have any support or guarantee unfortunately. And it seems impossible to find the chip (DLP4711FQL) for replacement. Hence I don't really feel like buying the same projector again (even if this time it would be the international Android Version with guarantee), but it still almost seems like the best price / performance candidate out there, excluding maybe this Optima P1. I'm not getting the Xiaomi 4k one from China (learned my lesson) and it's not available here as an international version.
> 
> Btw, the HDR from the Mi 1080p is a bit lacking in the displaying of grey I have heard, but haven't tested that yet because of no UHD to watch (yet).
> 
> So for me, I must judge if this Optoma P1 is worth getting or if I must bite the bullet and get another Mi.


At the very least you will gain quietness with P1... though P1 is MIA and price hike, so you might be looking at long time before you can get your hands on it.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

beisat said:


> For the Mi 1080p, the DLP Chip is dying, I am seeing white pixels. Since I bought the Chinese one at the time, I don't have any support or guarantee unfortunately. And it seems impossible to find the chip (DLP4711FQL) for replacement. Hence I don't really feel like buying the same projector again (even if this time it would be the international Android Version with guarantee), but it still almost seems like the best price / performance candidate out there, excluding maybe this Optima P1. I'm not getting the Xiaomi 4k one from China (learned my lesson) and it's not available here as an international version.
> 
> Btw, the HDR from the Mi 1080p is a bit lacking in the displaying of grey I have heard, but haven't tested that yet because of no UHD to watch (yet).
> 
> So for me, I must judge if this Optoma P1 is worth getting or if I must bite the bullet and get another Mi.


Having an expensive piece of AV equipment die is no fun! I just had my receiver die so I know the feeling of not wanting to buy the same model, manufacturer, etc... in fear of experiencing the same pain to your head, heart, and wallet. That being said, keep in mind that it was the DLP chip and being an owner for several DLP sets over the years...it's not unique to Xioami to have these fail. Samsung, Mitsubishi, ...I'm sure every manufacturer that uses their chip sets has this issue. Buying a P1 isn't going to help in this case. It's a gamble with any tech you buy and it's one of the things we have to be aware of with DLP--we buy the good and the bad. 

If I were you I would just think of it this way: You can buy a few more Xiaomi's (and get an upgrade in the process) and still be ahead. The 4K versions are 1.5K U.S. . You can always get a warranty from something like squaretrade if that's a concern for you. I think there are a few on the Xioami Mijia 4K thread that have done so. 

*P1 is no doubt a great option to have! *Looking forward to what 2020 brings in the UST market.


----------



## Christian Spiga

Hey guys I still have the same problem with my Optoma. There is no way to install C12 firmware, he continue to tell me that i had already installed the newest version possible, the C11.

My right half of the screen start to flicker more often.

Someone now if there is an hidden menu or something that let me do a deeper reset, not like the standard "reset to default".


----------



## rick4d

Just got an email from BHphoto saying that the Optoma P1 I ordered about 2 weeks ago is still on backorder, and that they are sorry for the delay... I hope Optoma is holding these back from retailers and dealers so they can work out the list of problems people here have been posting about. 😕


----------



## freejak13

My ship date just went from 12/5 to 12/31.


----------



## chinmokutak

Hey,

are you guys also feeling that the input lag is really really bad for this projector? I thought it wasn't bad on Shield, but I tried plugging in a PC yesterday, and it was beyond usable. Not even for a casual game..


----------



## Dr.Savage

chinmokutak said:


> Hey,
> 
> are you guys also feeling that the input lag is really really bad for this projector? I thought it wasn't bad on Shield, but I tried plugging in a PC yesterday, and it was beyond usable. Not even for a casual game..


Hello, I believe the lag is around 100ms, which is terrible. However a Optoma rep has been in this very thread saying they are looking to introduce a firmware update to address that. I asked for any follow up from him a few posts higher in this tread. He hasn't posted in a little while. But hopefully will have some news for us soon. My concern is the input lag will only improve to around 50ms. I don't think we are going to be in the sub 30ms realm, but I would love to be proven wrong. The LG laser projector has around 50-57ms input lag the last I saw (in game mode), so hopefully we hear even better news. The Optoma rep is actually a gamer himself, so he was looking forward to that future firmware update himself.


----------



## Vinh Nguyen

*Optoma P1 or Sony VPL-295ES?*

I'm considering buying either the Optoma P1 or the Sony VPL-295ES. I was going to pick the P1 because ease of setup but I see that it has a few issues and not a lot of reviews out there. I can get the Sony 295ES for $3K so it's roughly the same price point as the P1 except quite of bit of installation work is required and possibly lower image brightness. The P1 would be paired with 120" Elite Vision CLR while the Sony would be paired with Screen Excellence Ambient Visionaire Black 1.2. I'd appreciate any thoughts on this matter.


----------



## Kdub69

Can someone help me please trying to level the projector I have the top of the screen level but the bottom on both right and left side doesn’t line up, trying to do it with out keystone correction, anyone have anytips on how they did it?


----------



## g4s

Kdub69 said:


> Can someone help me please trying to level the projector I have the top of the screen level but the bottom on both right and left side doesn’t line up, trying to do it with out keystone correction, anyone have anytips on how they did it?


From a post I made a while back.

I can tell you how I set mine up. First I set the projector on the stand sitting level and moved it around until the image on the wall measured 59" tall. (the height of a 120" 16:9 image) Then I measured the distance from the floor to the top of the image. Marked the top of the image with masking tape. From there I marked the location of the brackets for the screen. Hung the screen, then moved the projector around and made small adjustments to the feet until it filled the screen. My screen has a 1/2" bezel, so that was my margin for error. I didn't have to use any geometry correction. It took a while though. As you know small adjustments can make a large difference.
If you try this method, I would first make sure any geometry correction is disabled.


----------



## struggledave

Hi Guys 
I just receive my projector with 110 elunevision ust Nanoedge 
What is the distance from the sceen, high and lenght I should place the projector. 
Thanks


----------



## acrackl

Would this provide a good alternative for a conventional (lamp based, normal throw) projector - like the Epson 5050UB which I’m considering ? I realize that price wise the Optoma P1 is higher, but I’m liking the flexibility of placement. But image quality is important for me.

My current setup: Benq W1070, Silver Ticket normal white screen (0.95 gain), 120”
Room: Untreated* (white walls), hardwood floor
Viewing: 100% night time, streamed content (movies, TV shows) and NO sports or games, averaged about 1000 hrs per year

(* room treatment is in the cards .... part of my planned upgrade)


----------



## Kev1000000

acrackl said:


> Would this provide a good alternative for a conventional (lamp based, normal throw) projector - like the Epson 5050UB which I’m considering ? I realize that price wise the Optoma P1 is higher, but I’m liking the flexibility of placement. But image quality is important for me.
> 
> My current setup: Benq W1070, Silver Ticket normal white screen (0.95 gain), 120”
> Room: Untreated* (white walls), hardwood floor
> Viewing: 100% night time, streamed content (movies, TV shows) and NO sports or games, averaged about 1000 hrs per year
> 
> (* room treatment is in the cards .... part of my planned upgrade)


If you've got a dedicated room and care a lot about image quality, I would go with the Epson 5050. It's better in almost every way in a dedicated theater environment.


----------



## Christian Spiga

Christian Spiga said:


> Hi guys, someone of you know if exist a kinf of hard reset on the P1 / UHZ65UST.
> 
> When i try to look for system update he answer that already is installed the newer version, but i know for sure that the newer is not the C11 like he said, because someone of you had the C12 installed.
> 
> I had some problem to solve, for example i'm using a Firestick 4K, but to see content in HDR I must set the Firestick 4K Dinamic Range in "Always HDR", but like this some content are over exposed. If I choose "Adaptive" when i play HDR content go out every time in SDR. Only if i use the internal movie player i can see HDR content.
> 
> I ask also to the support at Optoma Europe but seems like they don't know nothing about this new projector.
> 
> For info i buy it in Germany, i ordered the 26 of October and received the 12 of November.


Crazy, Optoma Germany answer to my problem.

They send me a link with the firmware C12 to download, and a walktrough for the updating.

Now i will try


----------



## solal-

chinmokutak said:


> Hey,
> 
> are you guys also feeling that the input lag is really really bad for this projector? I thought it wasn't bad on Shield, but I tried plugging in a PC yesterday, and it was beyond usable. Not even for a casual game..



I played more than 100 hours of PS4 on it without problem. I'm playing video game for at least 30 years, on all kind of monitor, tv, projector ... and I can say I didn't feel that the input lag is the problem here. But I didn't played online, the only game that I tested online was rocket league and it seems ok for me (but I have very low ping with the server so few input lag added by the internet connection). But I agree when I connect the projector on my laptop video output I can feel the lag, but I before that I had a sony HW55ES with an input lag of 22ms and it was the same, the input lag was larger when connected to my laptop video output, so maybe it's my laptop. 



However I use the projector for more than 300 hours now. The best use for me is for gaming, the game in 4K HDR look really great way more than with my sony, but for other content the sony have a better contrast and lot more accurate color (the optoma is better but only for 4K hdr movie recorded directly with digital camera otherwise the grain become noisy and the color by default are totally wrong) so what's fun is that contrary to what all people say on this forum I would largely recommend it for gaming rather than watching movie.


----------



## Christian Spiga

solal- said:


> I played more than 100 hours of PS4 on it without problem. I'm playing video game for at least 30 years, on all kind of monitor, tv, projector ... and I can say I didn't feel that the input lag is the problem here. But I didn't played online, the only game that I tested online was rocket league and it seems ok for me (but I have very low ping with the server so few input lag added by the internet connection). But I agree when I connect the projector on my laptop video output I can feel the lag, but I before that I had a sony HW55ES with an input lag of 22ms and it was the same, the input lag was larger when connected to my laptop video output, so maybe it's my laptop.
> 
> 
> 
> However I use the projector for more than 300 hours now. The best use for me is for gaming, the game in 4K HDR look really great way more than with my sony, but for other content the sony have a better contrast and lot more accurate color (the optoma is better but only for 4K hdr movie recorded directly with digital camera otherwise the grain become noisy and the color by default are totally wrong) so what's fun is that contrary to what all people say on this forum I would largely recommend it for gaming rather than watching movie.


When you play games in 4K HDR, i imagine that the P1 go automatically in the profile HDR. Is not too dark the image? What color gamut you use ? default is 2.4 ?


----------



## rick4d

Kingofrice said:


> I got the email notification today from Amazon that my order of Optoma P1 was shipped on the 29th. Is anybody here heard from Amazon too?


They weren't kidding about a price hike on these. Amazon(US) just raised the price $1,000 to $4,300...
Optoma CinemaX P1 4K UHD Laser TV Home Theater Projector | Bright 3000 Lumens | Ultra Short Throw | Integrated NuForce Soundbar | Stream Netflix and Prime Video | Works with Alexa and Google, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VDP29TX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_H0G8DbTH4FZXK


----------



## Casey_Bryson

rick4d said:


> They weren't kidding about a price hike on these. Amazon(US) just raised the price $1,000 to $4,300...
> Optoma CinemaX P1 4K UHD Laser TV Home Theater Projector | Bright 3000 Lumens | Ultra Short Throw | Integrated NuForce Soundbar | Stream Netflix and Prime Video | Works with Alexa and Google, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VDP29TX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_H0G8DbTH4FZXK


YIKES!!! put a fork in it...the P1 is officially not the UST we were looking for! Sub 3K is the price point people want and now it's closer to 5K with taxes. :frown: They might as well throw in a screen and hike up the price like everyone else at that price point. yeesh. 

At the same time: Congrats to those who got it for less you could probably resell and bank 1K now and wait for the next wave.


----------



## eedwards86

Sorry if this has already been asked or if this is the wrong place to ask but has anyone used this screen with the Optoma P1?

https://elitescreens.com/front/front/productdetail/product/481

103" Elite Screen non-texted surface. This seems to be an upgrade from their original Aeon CLR line?

Thanks.


----------



## imhotep6

So I just had to cancel my order with projector screens, so they should have one available for someone to order. Going to be out of the country for at least a month.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## ProjectionHead

imhotep6 said:


> So I just had to cancel my order with projector screens, so they should have one available for someone to order. Going to be out of the country for at least a month.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


. Let them know when you get back and I'm sure they will take care of you. There are units flowing in almost daily now


----------



## ProjectionHead

Casey_Bryson said:


> YIKES!!! put a fork in it...the P1 is officially not the UST we were looking for! Sub 3K is the price point people want and now it's closer to 5K with taxes. :frown: They might as well throw in a screen and hike up the price like everyone else at that price point. yeesh.
> 
> At the same time: Congrats to those who got it for less you could probably resell and bank 1K now and wait for the next wave.


No idea why Amazon is charging so much, should only be at $3,799 MSRP like at ProjectorScreen
https://www.projectorscreen.com/opt...nema-laser-projector-integrated-soundbar.html


----------



## ProjectionHead

eedwards86 said:


> Sorry if this has already been asked or if this is the wrong place to ask but has anyone used this screen with the Optoma P1?
> 
> https://elitescreens.com/front/front/productdetail/product/481
> 
> 103" Elite Screen non-texted surface. This seems to be an upgrade from their original Aeon CLR line?
> 
> Thanks.


This is a totally new surface from Elite, I've never heard of it. The fact they are saying this is textureless, ultra smooth and anti-scratch is unlike any other UST ALR surfaced I've ever seen. I called them and have a sample on the way to check out.


----------



## klas

ProjectionHead said:


> No idea why Amazon is charging so much, should only be at $3,799 MSRP like at ProjectorScreen
> https://www.projectorscreen.com/opt...nema-laser-projector-integrated-soundbar.html


Amazon had the same price hike like that back in September when it was in preorder state...

With new price and once they get their production under control it will not be selling as well though


----------



## ProjectionHead

rick4d said:


> They weren't kidding about a price hike on these. Amazon(US) just raised the price $1,000 to $4,300...
> Optoma CinemaX P1 4K UHD Laser TV Home Theater Projector | Bright 3000 Lumens | Ultra Short Throw | Integrated NuForce Soundbar | Stream Netflix and Prime Video | Works with Alexa and Google, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VDP29TX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_H0G8DbTH4FZXK


Wowzers, not only is Amazon charging $500+ over MSRP ($3,799) they are also not expecting items until mid-January. Fortunately some smaller specialty stores have gotten/are getting continual stock and are now at the $3,799....


----------



## eedwards86

ProjectionHead said:


> This is a totally new surface from Elite, I've never heard of it. The fact they are saying this is textureless, ultra smooth and anti-scratch is unlike any other UST ALR surfaced I've ever seen. I called them and have a sample on the way to check out.


Wonderful, are you able to report back what you find? I'm prepping to purchase a screen and this one has me intrigued.


----------



## ProjectionHead

eedwards86 said:


> Wonderful, are you able to report back what you find? I'm prepping to purchase a screen and this one has me intrigued.


I just got this from my contact @ Elite:
"The “CLR2” is not as dark a material as our “CLR” material ... and the CLR2 is compatible with ULTRA SHORT THROW “and” SHORT THROW projectors...."

Here is a comparison chart:

https://elitescreens.com/images/download/material/ComparisonTables/CLR_Materials_Comp.pdf (Their comparison sheet also lists a CLR 3 matieral which I am waiting for some more info on as well.)

That all being said, this appears to be an inferior (and less expensive) surface to their previous CLR material for UST projectors as it will also accommodate STs and which does not resolve 4k resolution despite their claims.


I have a sample on the way and will confirm how it stacks up and if it passes our 4k resolution test.

* despite some people in this thread actively promoting incorrect information regarding screen surface resolution capabilities; please keep in mind that all screens are not created equal. Just because a surface is intended to be ALR with UST projectors, it doesn't mean it performs to the same degree in terms of ALR, color reproduction, uniformity and most importantly, resolution.


----------



## aronsonstack

ProjectionHead said:


> This is a totally new surface from Elite, I've never heard of it. The fact they are saying this is textureless, ultra smooth and anti-scratch is unlike any other UST ALR surfaced I've ever seen. I called them and have a sample on the way to check out.


I asked if CLR 2 is an improvement over CLR 1, and they did not say, and only pointed me to a comparison spec sheet. Which I think is another way of saying.. NO. 

https://elitescreens.com/images/download/material/ComparisonTables/CLR_Materials_Comp.pdf

In this comparison, the 100 inch starts at a lower price point than CLR 1, and CLR 2 only rejects 65% of ambient light versus CLR 1's 95%.


----------



## aronsonstack

rick4d said:


> They weren't kidding about a price hike on these. Amazon(US) just raised the price $1,000 to $4,300...
> Optoma CinemaX P1 4K UHD Laser TV Home Theater Projector | Bright 3000 Lumens | Ultra Short Throw | Integrated NuForce Soundbar | Stream Netflix and Prime Video | Works with Alexa and Google, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VDP29TX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_H0G8DbTH4FZXK


I don't care if you nitpick Vava as an inferior product, but there is no way the P1 is $1.5k better. I think Vava will sell many more units in 2020.


----------



## klas

aronsonstack said:


> I don't care if you nitpick Vava as an inferior product, but there is no way the P1 is $1.5k better. I think Vava will sell many more units in 2020.


Based on reviews, P1 is not better then VAVA that much if anything except operating noise levels. Frankly I am having second thoughts if VAVA is $1.5k better then Xiaomi 1080p I have. Sure it's a bit brighter and quieter with 4k-ish resolution, but comparing 4k Youtube videos between the two and sure it's sharper, but I am not blown away for the price difference. I can't imagine paying $3k over Xiaomi for P1 and be like... meh...


----------



## bjanssen

klas said:


> Based on reviews, P1 is not better then VAVA that much if anything except operating noise levels. Frankly I am having second thoughts if VAVA is $1.5k better then Xiaomi 1080p I have. Sure it's a bit brighter and quieter with 4k-ish resolution, but comparing 4k Youtube videos between the two and sure it's sharper, but I am not blown away for the price difference. I can't imagine paying $3k over Xiaomi for P1 and be like... meh...


I agree that the difference is probably not warranted if they were both displaying a static image. However, both Vava and Xiaomi can only display at 60Hz, resulting in 24p movies having judder. Resolving that issue alone is worth the extra money.


----------



## klas

4k and 120 Hz will be a while before we see it


----------



## bix26

bjanssen said:


> I agree that the difference is probably not warranted if they were both displaying a static image. However, both Vava and Xiaomi can only display at 60Hz, resulting in 24p movies having judder. Resolving that issue alone is worth the extra money.




Can the Optoma do 24hz natively without 3:2 pull down and frame interpolation? I thought only one or two 4x XPR BenQ models could render 24hz content natively. Apparently BenQ spent considerable time designing a proprietary clutch for the color wheel and accompanying software in order to do this. If this is the case then Optoma is simply using 3:2 pull down with Frame Interpolation to render 24hz content, in which case it would almost certainly have some judder as well.


----------



## ryond

imhotep6 said:


> So I just had to cancel my order with projector screens, so they should have one available for someone to order. Going to be out of the country for at least a month.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


That makes me question my order now. I placed an order for the P1 on December 6th. This is what Brian G. of projectorscreen.com sent me. 

*We are expecting our next wave of P1s in from Optoma around that date (12/16). We do not know how many units we will be receiving and it may not be enough to cover all of the units back-ordered before your order.

Once we have a more firm understanding of our allocation we will let you know if your unit will be covered in this wave.*

I made an order hours before the price was hiked up $500. It's unfortunate the price is increasing dramatically. Hopefully they have enough for us all.


----------



## Christian Spiga

Hi Guys, someone of us can tell me if there is a way to choose the audio track o the subtitles using the internal mediaplayer of the Optoma P1?


----------



## imhotep6

ryond said:


> That makes me question my order now. I placed an order for the P1 on December 6th. This is what Brian G. of projectorscreen.com sent me.
> 
> 
> 
> *We are expecting our next wave of P1s in from Optoma around that date (12/16). We do not know how many units we will be receiving and it may not be enough to cover all of the units back-ordered before your order.
> 
> 
> 
> Once we have a more firm understanding of our allocation we will let you know if your unit will be covered in this wave.*
> 
> 
> 
> I made an order hours before the price was hiked up $500. It's unfortunate the price is increasing dramatically. Hopefully they have enough for us all.




I think you’ll be ok. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## g4s

Christian Spiga said:


> Hi Guys, someone of us can tell me if there is a way to choose the audio track o the subtitles using the internal mediaplayer of the Optoma P1?


I don't think so. It's also picky about audio formats. DD only I believe. I wound up getting a 2017 Nvidia Shield and installing KODI. It plays everything.


----------



## sbquart

New video on YT


----------



## klas

sbquart said:


> New video on YT


Which movie is that at 3:30? He said "Silly"?


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## g4s

klas said:


> Which movie is that at 3:30? He said "Silly"?


I think it was "Sully". Remember the guy who landed that jet on the Hudson river?


----------



## klas

g4s said:


> klas said:
> 
> 
> 
> Which movie is that at 3:30? He said "Silly"?
> 
> 
> 
> I think it was "Sully". Remember the guy who landed that jet on the Hudson river?
Click to expand...

Yeah I watched it but I don't recall this scene in the movie. This seemed like an action movie


----------



## chinmokutak

Are there anyways to lens shift on this thing without sacrificing resolution? I just got vividstorm screen, and the projector projects way higher than what screen can accommodate... The pj is already in the ground so it's either I put the screen on a stand or I dig hole..


----------



## Fedder

chinmokutak said:


> Are there anyways to lens shift on this thing without sacrificing resolution? I just got vividstorm screen, and the projector projects way higher than what screen can accommodate... The pj is already in the ground so it's either I put the screen on a stand or I dig hole..


No lens shift on UST projectors


----------



## kalle4242

Christian Spiga said:


> Hi guys, someone of you know if exist a kinf of hard reset on the P1 / UHZ65UST.
> 
> When i try to look for system update he answer that already is installed the newer version, but i know for sure that the newer is not the C11 like he said, because someone of you had the C12 installed.
> 
> I had some problem to solve, for example i'm using a Firestick 4K, but to see content in HDR I must set the Firestick 4K Dinamic Range in "Always HDR", but like this some content are over exposed. If I choose "Adaptive" when i play HDR content go out every time in SDR. Only if i use the internal movie player i can see HDR content.
> 
> I ask also to the support at Optoma Europe but seems like they don't know nothing about this new projector.
> 
> For info i buy it in Germany, i ordered the 26 of October and received the 12 of November.


Because I also have some problems with Fire TV 4k and HDR - could you solve the problem with the latest update? Mine still persist, although I am already on C12. The HDR output is poor (poor contrast, colors look washed out) - only by massively tuning it manually via custom settings I get acceptable results.


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## Casey_Bryson

kalle4242 said:


> Because I also have some problems with Fire TV 4k and HDR - could you solve the problem with the latest update? Mine still persist, although I am already on C12. The HDR output is poor (poor contrast, colors look washed out) - only by massively tuning it manually via custom settings I get acceptable results.



There's another person with the same issue with the firestick and HDR on the Fengmi 4K thread. There are pictures and videos of the issue. It's likely just a Firestick issue.


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## klas

Casey_Bryson said:


> There's another person with the same issue with the firestick and HDR on the Fengmi 4K thread. There are pictures and videos of the issue. It's likely just a Firestick issue.


Yeah, I had similar issue perhaps on VAVA and Nvidia Shield, turned out to be a setting to set automatic color space.


----------



## chinmokutak

I'm getting this weird picture nonuniformity... My center top seems to be higher than the edge, and the side edge seems slanted.
Do you guys think this is the issue with P1? or is it common UST issue?


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## g4s

chinmokutak said:


> I'm getting this weird picture nonuniformity... My center top seems to be higher than the edge, and the side edge seems slanted.
> Do you guys think this is the issue with P1? or is it common UST issue?


Looks screen related to me. Is that an ALR tensioned screen?


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## Christian Spiga

klas said:


> Yeah, I had similar issue perhaps on VAVA and Nvidia Shield, turned out to be a setting to set automatic color space.


The Problem of the firestick is that the function "Adaptive" is not really working for all the app, and if you set "Always HDR", all the menu in the firestick and the video NON-HDR are horrible.

I see that only Netflix work in when the firestick is in Adaptive, because the source change in HDR only if you play an HDR movie.

On AmazonPrime Film work also.

On Youtube for example don't work.



For all the owners of P1 or UHZ65UST like me....

....Post here all the versione of the components of your projector:

SYSTEM:

MCU:

DDP:

So we can really understand where is the problem, i see that someone had the same System Version : C12 but a different DDP.
With the manual update that they send me i had the DDP : C15, you?

Since i update i nevere experienced anymore the problem with the half of the screen that flicker for example, and also the games are non so bad, but i don't know how to calculate the delay.


----------



## chinmokutak

g4s said:


> Looks screen related to me. Is that an ALR tensioned screen?


it is ALR tensioned, but floor rising one. it's vividstorm motorized floor rising screen.


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## g4s

chinmokutak said:


> it is ALR tensioned, but floor rising one. it's vividstorm motorized floor rising screen.


Not sure about those top imperfections, but the down curving lines on the side looks like when a screen curves slightly inward. 
I'd be surprised if it was the lens system in the P1 causing those geometry problems. I guess it could be though.


----------



## Chrisb710

Does anybody else have a constant 100% fan since the last update?
Even if i lower the brightness to 50%, the fan is still running in 100% mode.
Before the update, i couldn't hear the fan on 50% brightness.


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

Chrisb710 said:


> Does anybody else have a constant 100% fan since the last update?
> Even if i lower the brightness to 50%, the fan is still running in 100% mode.
> Before the update, i couldn't hear the fan on 50% brightness.


Not that I have noticed (but bear in mind I do have the European version), I always have it on 100% brightness mode and there is a slight fan noise but it's something I have got used to now.


----------



## Christian Spiga

Hey guys, someone of you find a way to control the Volume and On/off of the Optoma P1, using the Firestick 4k remote?
I try long to configure but the volume is impossible to make it working, just the On/off


----------



## copperfield74

Christian Spiga said:


> Hey guys, someone of you find a way to control the Volume and On/off of the Optoma P1, using the Firestick 4k remote?
> I try long to configure but the volume is impossible to make it working, just the On/off


Same Problem here!


----------



## ProjectionHead

P1 Availability Update - GOOD NEWS:

Optoma is shipping out more than enough P1s to cover the backorder at ProjectorScreen. 

This means that everyone who has ordered and is waiting will soon be receiving their units AND there are additional units available for new customers. There will only be a handful of available units for new purchases, so it is advised to get an order in ASAP to ensure you are allocated one.

The items will NOT be arriving to customers before Xmas (bah humbug!) as they are not expected to land at ProjectorScreen until after 12/25. They will be turned around within 1 day and out the door to everyone who has been patiently waiting.

I am not sure what is going on with Amazon or the other large retailers; Amazon has removed the item from their site with them as the seller - it is only 3rd party sellers at crazy inflated prices.

I am not aware if any people on the Amazon backorder will be receiving units soon however it certainly is possible.

Best of luck to everyone waiting!


----------



## Kev1000000

While you folks are waiting, here is my Optoma P1 setup nearly complete 


























Still some minor work to do (like figure out how to prevent the light spill), but the hardwork is finally complete!


----------



## Christian Spiga

Kev1000000 said:


> While you folks are waiting, here is my Optoma P1 setup nearly complete
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still some minor work to do (like figure out how to prevent the light spill), but the hardwork is finally complete!


You had already this screen before or you buy for the Optoma?

Can you do some photo on full daylight?


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

Kev1000000 said:


> While you folks are waiting, here is my Optoma P1 setup nearly complete
> 
> Still some minor work to do (like figure out how to prevent the light spill), but the hardwork is finally complete!


Looks great, I too suffer from the light spill...tried all sorts of tweaking but in the end decided to paint the floating wall the screen is mounted on black which makes it a lot more bearable for my eyes. Going to get the PJ calibrated at the start of next year so hopefully he can position it without me needing to use SmartFit and remove any of the light bleed.


----------



## klas

Kev1000000 said:


> While you folks are waiting, here is my Optoma P1 setup nearly complete
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still some minor work to do (like figure out how to prevent the light spill), but the hardwork is finally complete!


That looks like trip over hazard. I am actively looking for solution myself to solve this problem (aside from ceiling mounting it), so I don't have projector in the walk path


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## Kev1000000

klas said:


> That looks like trip over hazard. I am actively looking for solution myself to solve this problem (aside from ceiling mounting it), so I don't have projector in the walk path


Yeah, it's not ideal, but the rug helps you not step on it, since we know only to walk on the rug. Still sucks though.


----------



## klas

Kev1000000 said:


> Yeah, it's not ideal, but the rug helps you not step on it, since we know only to walk on the rug. Still sucks though.


For me also I have to protect it from kids since they like to play around the area. Hopefully next crop of USTs will have shorter distance like what LG has done.


----------



## Kev1000000

klas said:


> For me also I have to protect it from kids since they like to play around the area. Hopefully next crop of USTs will have shorter distance like what LG has done.


I've got an 8 month old that will probably ruin this setup within 6 months


----------



## Smokey100

I need your collective expertise.

My P1 is finally on its way, thanks ProjectionHead, a.k.a Brian G.

I plan on streaming movies. I just found that the P1s apps only stream in 480p. Wow, that's crazy. So I plan on getting a streaming device. My choices are a Roku +, Amazon 4K Fire Stick, Apple TV 4K, and the new Nvidia Shield. I know the P1 will upscale 1080p content but as I understand, it just makes more pixels. The Shield has a processor that sharpens scaled-up content. (I took their demo fuzzy image and applied a Photoshop filter to it and got the same results). Apple scales up content too. Do you know which does a better job? Or, should I save my money and get a Roku or Fire Stick?

Thanks


----------



## klas

Smokey100 said:


> I need your collective expertise.
> 
> My P1 is finally on its way, thanks ProjectionHead, a.k.a Brian G.
> 
> I plan on streaming movies. I just found that the P1s apps only stream in 480p. Wow, that's crazy. So I plan on getting a streaming device. My choices are a Roku +, Amazon 4K Fire Stick, Apple TV 4K, and the new Nvidia Shield. I know the P1 will upscale 1080p content but as I understand, it just makes more pixels. The Shield has a processor that sharpens scaled-up content. (I took their demo fuzzy image and applied a Photoshop filter to it and got the same results). Apple scales up content too. Do you know which does a better job? Or, should I save my money and get a Roku or Fire Stick?
> 
> Thanks


Back 4 years ago when I got Shield it was the best streaming device, but today I would not buy it since other options will do just as well. I only used 3 apps on it Amazon Prime, Kodi, Netflix which are available on other streaming devices. Their "AI upscaling" seems like a gimmick for non 4k content anyway. I would actually pick Xiaomi Mi Box S in Walmart for $50.


----------



## ryond

Smokey100 said:


> I need your collective expertise.
> 
> My P1 is finally on its way, thanks ProjectionHead, a.k.a Brian G.
> 
> Thanks


I'm jealous. I'm hoping I see that email in my inbox soon from projectorscreen.com as well. I was so tempted to buy it from Amazon just now. 

I did notice the status of the P1 says it leaves the warehouse in 5-10 business days on projectorscreen.com. That's good news.


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

Smokey100 said:


> I need your collective expertise.
> 
> My P1 is finally on its way, thanks ProjectionHead, a.k.a Brian G.
> 
> I plan on streaming movies. I just found that the P1s apps only stream in 480p. Wow, that's crazy. So I plan on getting a streaming device. My choices are a Roku +, Amazon 4K Fire Stick, Apple TV 4K, and the new Nvidia Shield. I know the P1 will upscale 1080p content but as I understand, it just makes more pixels. The Shield has a processor that sharpens scaled-up content. (I took their demo fuzzy image and applied a Photoshop filter to it and got the same results). Apple scales up content too. Do you know which does a better job? Or, should I save my money and get a Roku or Fire Stick?
> 
> Thanks


It depends what you want to achieve. Apple TV 4K probably has the best interface but you will not get Audio passthrough (meaning no Dolby Atmos for local media eg. via Kodi/Plex)..it also does not do YouTube at 4K (which thankfully the Optoma app does). NVidia Shield will allow Audio passthrough and again no 4K Youtube (for me though the interface is not that good...but it gets the job done). Amazon Firestick for me is the weakest of the lot, it only really shines with Prime Video where the audio formats it outputs are better than the other two devices. Not on your list but one I recently added to my collection is Google ChromeCast Ultra...this is the only streaming device that has YouTube 4K HDR support and for me that makes a massive difference on the PJ.

So it really does depend on your needs, to give a bit of context I own them all (apart from a Roku) and last week unplugged the FireStick which has now been relegated to another room...I use the Apple TV for the majority of things (e.g. watching Apple TV+ programs, Amazon Prime, Netflix)....switch to the Shield for anything local I want to watch and benefit from the Audio passthrough benefits (mostly Plex but sometimes Kodi) and finally flick to the Chromecast for YouTube 4k HDR and also for watching sport on BT Sports (I am UK based) again in 4K HDR.


----------



## klas

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> NVidia Shield will allow Audio passthrough and again no 4K Youtube (for me though the interface is not that good...but it gets the job done).


You might have some bootleg Nvidia Shield, it has 4k YouTube and interface is vanilla Android TV.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Klas - stone cold, beautiful picture! My 2K monitor shows your room in all its glory. Out of curiosity - what did you take the picture with? 

Sorry if this is been asked before but I believe you have a fixed screen? Material and where you bought it? Is that 100" size?

Also - any reason you didn't set the screen up higher to get the UST Projector off the ground? What's the distance from the wall to the end of your Optoma P1 4K projector? (To the front) 

Lastly and from all the posts on these UST threads - - it seems to me that the optimal solution, setup wise, is to have enough room to place a "stand" over a center speaker with the UST on the stand, projecting from there. I know this will all get down to room size and the height of the wall where your screen is. Thanks for sharing. Again, really a beautiful picture with great saturated color and sharpness!


----------



## bk 1937

When and Why was the price increased from $3300 to $3800?


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

klas said:


> You might have some bootleg Nvidia Shield, it has 4k YouTube and interface is vanilla Android TV.


Whoops meant to say no Youtube 4K HDR, and yes it’s vanilla Android TV which for me when compared with the Apple TV interface is not in the same league.


----------



## Chapla1n

bk 1937 said:


> When and Why was the price increased from $3300 to $3800?



Increase due to tariffs on Chinese goods.


----------



## klas

Chapla1n said:


> Increase due to tariffs on Chinese goods.


Send the difference to Trump, he will cover it


----------



## Larry J

Which Tariffs would that be since shipping the first batch. Dec. 15th tariffs and some others were stopped and a few lowered. I don't see front projectors on any list, just like TV. Its mostly parts for apparatus type stuff. Just wondering if tariffs are the real reason or just a good excuse everyone likes to use. Then again not sure many actually know how much tariffs affect price in reality. But the media loves to throw big numbers around for headlines. Electronics was spared a lot up to the Dec. 15th so that one never hit.


----------



## g4s

Larry J said:


> Which Tariffs would that be since shipping the first batch. Dec. 15th tariffs and some others were stopped and a few lowered. I don't see front projectors on any list, just like TV. Its mostly parts for apparatus type stuff. Just wondering if tariffs are the real reason or just a good excuse everyone likes to use. Then again not sure many actually know how much tariffs affect price in reality. But the media loves to throw big numbers around for headlines. Electronics was spared a lot up to the Dec. 15th so that one never hit.


I suspect demand comes into play.


----------



## bennutt

Larry J said:


> Which Tariffs would that be since shipping the first batch. Dec. 15th tariffs and some others were stopped and a few lowered. I don't see front projectors on any list, just like TV. Its mostly parts for apparatus type stuff. Just wondering if tariffs are the real reason or just a good excuse everyone likes to use. Then again not sure many actually know how much tariffs affect price in reality. But the media loves to throw big numbers around for headlines. Electronics was spared a lot up to the Dec. 15th so that one never hit.




This laid out a very specific 25% tariff and had a link to the actual list. Half this country loves to blame media for alternate facts, maybe you can get an alternate invoice.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Larry J

Yeah, I saw the list didn't see anything about actual front projectors on it, and I didn't say they reversed the original tariffs either. Which has been in effect for quite awhile now. What I did say is there has been none since they shipped the first units. The Dec. 15th tariff's did included more electronics and until that was stopped, one could assume maybe that was it. Also, media does mostly only care about views and hits and will blow up any headline regardless of the topic. If someone see's a clearly stated front projector listed on the old tariff's, then fine.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> It depends what you want to achieve. Apple TV 4K probably has the best interface but you will not get Audio passthrough (meaning no Dolby Atmos for local media eg. via Kodi/Plex)..it also does not do YouTube at 4K (which thankfully the Optoma app does). NVidia Shield will allow Audio passthrough and again no 4K Youtube (for me though the interface is not that good...but it gets the job done). Amazon Firestick for me is the weakest of the lot, it only really shines with Prime Video where the audio formats it outputs are better than the other two devices. Not on your list but one I recently added to my collection is Google ChromeCast Ultra...this is the only streaming device that has YouTube 4K HDR support and for me that makes a massive difference on the PJ.
> 
> So it really does depend on your needs, to give a bit of context I own them all (apart from a Roku) and last week unplugged the FireStick which has now been relegated to another room...I use the Apple TV for the majority of things (e.g. watching Apple TV+ programs, Amazon Prime, Netflix)....switch to the Shield for anything local I want to watch and benefit from the Audio passthrough benefits (mostly Plex but sometimes Kodi) and finally flick to the Chromecast for YouTube 4k HDR and also for watching sport on BT Sports (I am UK based) again in 4K HDR.


Roku Ultra has excellent up scaling to 4K and is the most content agnostic of them all--it doesn't have a pony in the streaming race it just does everything well...4K HDR and Atmos for most apps Disney+, Vudu, Prime, etc... (except Atmos for Netflix, but that's on Netflix not Roku--Apple TV has it though). 

I haven't seen the latest Shield up scaling so I can't comment on that device or it's offerings but from a streaming box It's hard to see how anything is better than the Roku Ultra at this stage of the game.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Ricoflashback said:


> Klas - stone cold, beautiful picture! My 2K monitor shows your room in all its glory. Out of curiosity - what did you take the picture with?
> 
> Sorry if this is been asked before but I believe you have a fixed screen? Material and where you bought it? Is that 100" size?
> 
> Also - any reason you didn't set the screen up higher to get the UST Projector off the ground? What's the distance from the wall to the end of your Optoma P1 4K projector? (To the front)
> 
> Lastly and from all the posts on these UST threads - - it seems to me that the optimal solution, setup wise, is to have enough room to place a "stand" over a center speaker with the UST on the stand, projecting from there. I know this will all get down to room size and the height of the wall where your screen is. Thanks for sharing. Again, really a beautiful picture with great saturated color and sharpness!


I disagree with the suggestion of having the stand over the center speaker...at least for larger screens, it might work for sub 100" screens though. One of the best parts about the P1's larger offset (from floor of projector to image) is that you have more room for a bigger center speaker above the projector OR more room to point the center channel up towards the MLP without having it protrude into the display cone/image. I used to think that it was too large, but in retrospect I think they got the offset right considering a 120" inch screen and most people already having a proper home theater speaker setup.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Kev1000000 said:


> I've got an 8 month old that will probably ruin this setup within 6 months


Wow!!! Really nice setup Kev! But..................... 

I already hate it for you...unless you can somehow make it a kid free zone. That's the tricky part about these UST's--they need to be low to the ground AND protrude out further than we'd like. 

I recently installed two subs flanking my Fengmi UST and moved out my left and right speakers so 1. I could toe them in to the MLP and 2. so my projector wouldn't stand out as much. All in all I think it works better that way and it almost looks like the subs weren't an after thought ;-) lol


----------



## klas

Kev1000000 said:


> klas said:
> 
> 
> 
> For me also I have to protect it from kids since they like to play around the area. Hopefully next crop of USTs will have shorter distance like what LG has done.
> 
> 
> 
> I've got an 8 month old that will probably ruin this setup within 6 months /forum/images/smilies/frown.gif
Click to expand...

Modified shelf to keep mine protected and low enough to the ground


----------



## kalle4242

Casey_Bryson said:


> There's another person with the same issue with the firestick and HDR on the Fengmi 4K thread. There are pictures and videos of the issue. It's likely just a Firestick issue.


I fixed my issue. I moved my Fire TV stick to HDMI1 after reading somewhere that on older regular Optoma beamer there was an issue with using the HDMI3 port - which I did - and people recommend to use HDMI1 instead. Now it´s perfect! 

I am using 12Bit color space and forced HDR and the picture now simply looks fantastic on HDR display mode.


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

Casey_Bryson said:


> I disagree with the suggestion of having the stand over the center speaker...at least for larger screens, it might work for sub 100" screens though. One of the best parts about the P1's larger offset (from floor of projector to image) is that you have more room for a bigger center speaker above the projector OR more room to point the center channel up towards the MLP without having it protrude into the display cone/image. I used to think that it was too large, but in retrospect I think they got the offset right considering a 120" inch screen and most people already having a proper home theater speaker setup.


Yes fully agree with this statement, although it's difficult to see because the room is dark if you look at the photo I posted on the last page you can see that my center speaker sits above the projector and in fact slightly overlaps it (I pushed it back as far as it could go without interrupting the lens). Because my center speaker is so large (Monitor Audio C350) it was really the only option I had available. I initially had it placed on a very low stand in front of the projector but having the sound so low annoyed me so ended up getting a custom center speaker stand made which has the sound at approx ear level when sitting down. Everyone says the most important speaker in a set up is the center speaker as it carries the most dialogue and for that reason I would not compromise on it's position.


----------



## Christian Spiga

kalle4242 said:


> I fixed my issue. I moved my Fire TV stick to HDMI1 after reading somewhere that on older regular Optoma beamer there was an issue with using the HDMI3 port - which I did - and people recommend to use HDMI1 instead. Now it´s perfect!
> 
> I am using 12Bit color space and forced HDR and the picture now simply looks fantastic on HDR display mode.


Is not a "problem" of the HDMI 3, is only that by default HDMI 1 & 2 are setted to 2.0 and HDMI 3 is setted at 1.4, but you can change at 2.0 and solve the problem.

Also I don't underdtand all the people that talk about problem on youtube in 4k, with the Firestick 4k i can play 4k video in HDR from youtube without problems, i don't think that exist something more cheap that the firestick 4k to buy and have all the necessary things.


----------



## copperfield74

Christian Spiga said:


> Is not a "problem" of the HDMI 3, is only that by default HDMI 1 & 2 are setted to 2.0 and HDMI 3 is setted at 1.4, but you can change at 2.0 and solve the problem.
> 
> Also I don't underdtand all the people that talk about problem on youtube in 4k, with the Firestick 4k i can play 4k video in HDR from youtube without problems, i don't think that exist something more cheap that the firestick 4k to buy and have all the necessary things.


I also use the 4K Fire TV Stick and can also watch 4K content. 
The only problem is that right now it doesn't support Dolby Atmos. They advertise that it supports Atmos but it doesn't. Amazon support already told me that they know that there is a problem and they hope to solve it within the next 2 weeks.


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

Christian Spiga said:


> Also I don't underdtand all the people that talk about problem on youtube in 4k, with the Firestick 4k i can play 4k video in HDR from youtube without problems, i don't think that exist something more cheap that the firestick 4k to buy and have all the necessary things.


My mistake, although I have a FireStick 4K I just presumed 4K HDR on youtube was not possible. It's definitely a solid streamer for the price.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Casey_Bryson said:


> I disagree with the suggestion of having the stand over the center speaker...at least for larger screens, it might work for sub 100" screens though. One of the best parts about the P1's larger offset (from floor of projector to image) is that you have more room for a bigger center speaker above the projector OR more room to point the center channel up towards the MLP without having it protrude into the display cone/image. I used to think that it was too large, but in retrospect I think they got the offset right considering a 120" inch screen and most people already having a proper home theater speaker setup.


***Let me rephrase. Having the center speaker close to ear height is optimal. (And by that, I mean the listening position which for me is in my reclining chair.) Having a center speaker at your feet, even pointing up, is not a good idea, IMHO. While I am looking at UST setups, my current Atmos room has my very large center speaker level (top) with my L & R Mains "top." (Just below my 75" LCD TV)

So - - is there a way to achieve the above with this UST projector? I have seen someone who had a "cut out" where the projector was beneath the center speaker but I'm not sure if that's possible with my smaller man cave. Maybe a larger wall can accommodate.


----------



## kalle4242

Christian Spiga said:


> Is not a "problem" of the HDMI 3, is only that by default HDMI 1 & 2 are setted to 2.0 and HDMI 3 is setted at 1.4, but you can change at 2.0 and solve the problem.
> 
> Also I don't underdtand all the people that talk about problem on youtube in 4k, with the Firestick 4k i can play 4k video in HDR from youtube without problems, i don't think that exist something more cheap that the firestick 4k to buy and have all the necessary things.


The settings on HDMI3 were on 2.0 ....


----------



## Kdub69

Proud owner of the optoma p1 love the projector, just wondering when the input lag will be fixed, raspberry pi Is not useable to much lag, ps4 off line is okay, online 2020 is bearable however it feels like you have a disadvantage due to lag. Anyone have any news when the next update will come to address this issue?


----------



## Dr.Savage

Kdub69 said:


> Proud owner of the optoma p1 love the projector, just wondering when the input lag will be fixed, raspberry pi Is not useable to much lag, ps4 off line is okay, online 2020 is bearable however it feels like you have a disadvantage due to lag. Anyone have any news when the next update will come to address this issue?


A number of pages back an Optoma spokesperson said a fix for input lag was coming soon, but he hasn't posted lately. So nothing concrete at this time.


----------



## klas

P1 is fully in stock on Amazon at a new price. Any takers?


----------



## struggledave

Hi finaly have timebto install my P1
But I have a few questions:
How can you add APPS like Disney Plus ?
And everytime I switch for HDMI I have a Message with color issue and an image of a câble and and old tv. Sometimes the color goes realy dark ?
Thank you


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

struggledave said:


> Hi finaly have timebto install my P1
> But I have a few questions:
> How can you add APPS like Disney Plus ?
> And everytime I switch for HDMI I have a Message with color issue and an image of a câble and and old tv. Sometimes the color goes realy dark ?
> Thank you


You cannot install Disney Plus, you’ll need a streaming device like Apple TV, Firestick etc. You can disable the message (it’s just a warning). The image will always be there though as you change sources.


----------



## ryond

klas said:


> P1 is fully in stock on Amazon at a new price. Any takers?


I was temped to buy one from Amazon, but I stumbled upon some at touchboards.com. I just bought one earlier this week and received it today. When you make an account with them, they will reduce the price to $3609.05 for being a member at checkout. About 5% off. Simply just sign in. Anyone can save themselves about $190 and ground shipping is free. Tax is still included. FYI


----------



## g4s

ryond said:


> I was temped to buy one from Amazon, but I stumbled upon some at touchboards.com. I just bought one earlier this week and received it today. When you make an account with them, they will reduce the price to $3609.05 for being a member at checkout. About 5% off. Simply just sign in. Anyone can save themselves about $190 and ground shipping is free. Tax is still included. FYI


I think there's still some $200 gift card review rebates available, if that was an authorized dealer you got it from. https://www.optoma.com/us/cinemax-p1-review/


----------



## ryond

Thanks^^^. I just submitted one. On the claim form it shows nothing about where it was purchased. Seems all Optoma needs is the serial number and a url of the review written. If I do, it was fairly close to the $3299 price.


----------



## g4s

ryond said:


> Thanks^^^. I just submitted one. On the claim form it shows nothing about where it was purchased. Seems all Optoma needs is the serial number and a url of the review written. If I do, it was fairly close to the $3299 price.


It surprises me how few of these are out there. I got mine Oct. 8th and thought I better not waste time getting that review submitted. I think the rebate's still available for another 10 days or until they hit 200.


----------



## 3DMamper

Hi owners, Im keen to know what the input lag will be. I understand the UHZ65 which is similar has 80ms. Im also keen to know if the black levels are worse or better than a Epson TW9400 or Sony HW50es.

From what i see in video reviews the black levels look decent for a DLP. But ive been fooled by videos too often. They often allow the camera to adjust and make the contrast look more impressive than RL.


----------



## Kev1000000

3DMamper said:


> Hi owners, Im keen to know what the input lag will be. I understand the UHZ65 which is similar has 80ms. Im also keen to know if the black levels are worse or better than a Epson TW9400 or Sony HW50es.
> 
> From what i see in video reviews the black levels look decent for a DLP. But ive been fooled by videos too often. They often allow the camera to adjust and make the contrast look more impressive than RL.


Current input lag is at 120+ ms in all modes. Black levels are a bit worse than those two projectors. The P1 does OK with black levels and contrast, but I would stay away from DLP USTs if you can go with a 3LCD or LCoS standard throw. USTs right now are perfect for living room type-ish setups, not a more specific HT setup.


----------



## 3DMamper

Thank you Kev 👍


----------



## chinmokutak

Casey_Bryson said:


> Kev1000000 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've got an 8 month old that will probably ruin this setup within 6 months /forum/images/smilies/frown.gif
> 
> 
> 
> Wow!!! Really nice setup Kev! But.....................
> 
> I already hate it for you...unless you can somehow make it a kid free zone. That's the tricky part about these UST's--they need to be low to the ground AND protrude out further than we'd like.
> 
> I recently installed two subs flanking my Fengmi UST and moved out my left and right speakers so 1. I could toe them in to the MLP and 2. so my projector wouldn't stand out as much. All in all I think it works better that way and it almost looks like the subs weren't an after thought 😉 lol
Click to expand...

How are you fitting center behind the projector?
My p1 is sitting roughly 12 inches away from the screen and it's already producing ~110inch screen size..


----------



## legnaz

I just got my p1 from best buy and i found out that they have a stupid 15% restocking fee for open projectors. Now im afraid to open the box in case I dont like the projector. I paid $3300 for it before the price went up. What to do, what to do?! Should i order from Amazon, try it, and if I like it return the Amazon one and open the best buy unit? Should I just risk opening the best buy p1? I am very picky and need the picture to be very good with no issues. I currently have an old benq w1070 in my master bedroom. That is where I think ill be placing this projector. In my living room, I have a 75 inch sony 940e that I love. Any ideas? Thanks.


----------



## eedwards86

Has anyone tried this screen?

https://www.silverticketproducts.com/products/st3-169100-ust


----------



## klas

legnaz said:


> I just got my p1 from best buy and i found out that they have a stupid 15% restocking fee for open projectors. Now im afraid to open the box in case I dont like the projector. I paid $3300 for it before the price went up. What to do, what to do?! Should i order from Amazon, try it, and if I like it return the Amazon one and open the best buy unit? Should I just risk opening the best buy p1? I am very picky and need the picture to be very good with no issues. I currently have an old benq w1070 in my master bedroom. That is where I think ill be placing this projector. In my living room, I have a 75 inch sony 940e that I love. Any ideas? Thanks.


I don't know about your bedroom and if aesthetics are important to you, but I would hate to put this projector in the bedroom. It will be huge box sitting low to the floor and quite a bit far from the wall. For bedroom I would stick with the projector you have if you have it mounted on the ceiling or get a TV.


----------



## colinmatheny11

I have the 120 inch version and it's been great. I think the Elite CLR is about the same price now on Amazon, maybe cheaper. When I bought the Silver Ticket , the Elite was over $2000.

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk


----------



## roodof

klas said:


> P1 is fully in stock on Amazon at a new price. Any takers?


isn't the vava a thousand less?


----------



## Smokey100

chinmokutak said:


> I'm getting this weird picture nonuniformity... My center top seems to be higher than the edge, and the side edge seems slanted.
> Do you guys think this is the issue with P1? or is it common UST issue?


chinmokutak, did you ever get your image distortion sorted out? I was interested in a floor rising screen, I'd put it behind a cabinet so it disappears when I'm not using it. But, I'm concerned that a floor rising screen might not be flat enough for an UST projector.


----------



## chinmokutak

Smokey100 said:


> chinmokutak, did you ever get your image distortion sorted out? I was interested in a floor rising screen, I'd put it behind a cabinet so it disappears when I'm not using it. But, I'm concerned that a floor rising screen might not be flat enough for an UST projector.


Somkey, long story short, it was the screen, and I don't think there's any way around it with this type of screen. But the screen I got, vividstorm, their projectable surface is bigger, so I just had to make the picture smaller. with that being said, I usually use the edge of the screen to determine the perfect angle (distance from the edge, and verticle angle). As I had to make the screen smaller, I lost the reference...


----------



## MarcusD777

*Green Flashing and lip sync issues with 24hz content*

So I have had the P1 for about a week. Great projector so far. Only issue I have been having from time to time is some greenish flashing and lip sync issues when playing 24hz/fps content. No issues running 2160p 60hz/fps material. I have a Roku Ultra feeding into a Denon 4300 receiver then out to the P1. hdmi 2.0 enabled on all devices in the chain. Auto display setup on the Roku with 4:2:2 for color depth. Anyone else run into this issue?


----------



## g4s

MarcusD777 said:


> So I have had the P1 for about a week. Great projector so far. Only issue I have been having from time to time is some greenish flashing and lip sync issues when playing 24hz/fps content. No issues running 2160p 60hz/fps material. I have a Roku Ultra feeding into a Denon 4300 receiver then out to the P1. hdmi 2.0 enabled on all devices in the chain. Auto display setup on the Roku with 4:2:2 for color depth. Anyone else run into this issue?


I haven't had any flashing, but I've had lip sync problems on some 2160p 24hz material. My player is an Nvidia Shield 2017. I went back to 60hz. I couldn't see any difference in picture quality. Still would be nice to have that option though. 
I guess that could be a software problem with KODI and not the P1. I didn't try VLC, MX or any other players.


----------



## MarcusD777

g4s said:


> I haven't had any flashing, but I've had lip sync problems on some 2160p 24hz material. My player is an Nvidia Shield 2017. I went back to 60hz. I couldn't see any difference in picture quality. Still would be nice to have that option though.
> I guess that could be a software problem with KODI and not the P1. I didn't try VLC, MX or any other players.


So I have determined that the lip sync issue and random flashing only happens on 24hz material when Pure Motion is engage. If you turn it off these issues dissipate. Not sure if this is a software glitch or bandwidth issue happening with the hdmi cable I am using so purchased a couple 48gps 3ft cables to test out this weekend to see if this remedies the issue.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

chinmokutak said:


> How are you fitting center behind the projector?
> My p1 is sitting roughly 12 inches away from the screen and it's already producing ~110inch screen size..


My Center channel specs are: 
Cabinet height	7 3/4" (19.68cm)
Cabinet width	21 3/16" (53.82cm)
Cabinet depth	9 3/8" (23.81cm)


So plenty of room. I've tried the Polk CS10 (6.5H x 20W x 9.8D in) as well and only the ginormous Polk LSIM 706C (9H x 28.8W x 13.9D in) wouldn't work out. If I had the P1 it would though, but like you may have been alluding to, the vertical offset of any UST does vary--though the P1 seems to have the largest variation I've seen.

My vertical offset is 14.5 (base of projector to image) I think it's around 15 from wall to back of my projector with 120" screen.


----------



## aquaverd

*Light spill*

How many of you are having light spill problems? So far around various website I've seen it mentioned 5 times - just wondering if this is a bigger issue beyond just a few defective or incorrectly setup units. Seriously considering purchasing this projector today.


----------



## Kev1000000

aquaverd said:


> How many of you are having light spill problems? So far around various website I've seen it mentioned 5 times - just wondering if this is a bigger issue beyond just a few defective or incorrectly setup units. Seriously considering purchasing this projector today.


I believe there is no getting around it. It's a flaw in the DLP design. You either learn to live with it or choose 3LCD/LCoS instead, unfortunately


----------



## chinmokutak

Two months after getting the projector, finally semi-finished my man cave...
I've got to say I'm kinda disappointed I went with UST route... If I knew this was going to be this painful, I may have chosen ST or even LT route... Now, my issue could be unique, I had to use the floor-rising screen as I have not yet finished my basement, but it was extremely frustrating...

First of all, I found the image around the center of the screen being bigger than the edge, it exponentially exposes the screen un-uniformity, and to make it semi-perfect, it's really hard to move the projector while constantly looking up to see the impact to the picture. With ST and LT, you can kinda look straight at the screen to adjust. For some reason, I found it much harder to adjust UST PJs.

Second, I originally thought UST is great because it can hide cables and allows people to come in and out, but what I didn't realize was, I have to place the projector where I would put the center channel. I had to come up with a creative way of putting the center channel. I bought those wooden crates and put the screen on top of it (and couple of printing papers I had lying around).

In general, I find that by having UST, you almost have to design the room around the specific pj you got, you have to worry about so many things, including buying stands for PJ, center speaker placement, screen placement, and it seems like nothing is easily adjustable by the screen. 

At least it's almost done now...


----------



## DunMunro

aquaverd said:


> How many of you are having light spill problems? So far around various website I've seen it mentioned 5 times - just wondering if this is a bigger issue beyond just a few defective or incorrectly setup units. Seriously considering purchasing this projector today.


AIUI, the P1 uses version 2 of the .47 XPR chip. This chip has a narrow light border ( ~2cm) around the image, which is illuminated at the same level as the black bars in cinemascope films.


----------



## Kev1000000

chinmokutak said:


> Two months after getting the projector, finally semi-finished my man cave...
> I've got to say I'm kinda disappointed I went with UST route... If I knew this was going to be this painful, I may have chosen ST or even LT route... Now, my issue could be unique, I had to use the floor-rising screen as I have not yet finished my basement, but it was extremely frustrating...
> 
> First of all, I found the image around the center of the screen being bigger than the edge, it exponentially exposes the screen un-uniformity, and to make it semi-perfect, it's really hard to move the projector while constantly looking up to see the impact to the picture. With ST and LT, you can kinda look straight at the screen to adjust. For some reason, I found it much harder to adjust UST PJs.
> 
> Second, I originally thought UST is great because it can hide cables and allows people to come in and out, but what I didn't realize was, I have to place the projector where I would put the center channel. I had to come up with a creative way of putting the center channel. I bought those wooden crates and put the screen on top of it (and couple of printing papers I had lying around).
> 
> In general, I find that by having UST, you almost have to design the room around the specific pj you got, you have to worry about so many things, including buying stands for PJ, center speaker placement, screen placement, and it seems like nothing is easily adjustable by the screen.
> 
> At least it's almost done now...


Yep, as I mentioned before, unless you really need a UST (like for a living room setup like mine), I highly recommend sticking with a standard throw projector. The hassle of running cables is worth it if you have a dedicated theater space. UST's are _perfect_ for specific types of environments, but I don't find them a good alternative to a standard throw in rooms that would allow for a standard throw projector.

Basically... if you _can't_ install a standard throw projector in your room for whatever reason, UST's are an awesome option for screen sizes 100"+ (paired with an ALR screen). If you _can_ install a ST in your room, just go with that for now. For the price, you'll get better PQ, overall easier room design, and a much easier to align screen.

I have a feeling USTs will get much better soon, but for people on the fence who can install a standard throw in their space, just do that.


----------



## Mike Garrett

Kev1000000 said:


> I believe there is no getting around it. It's a flaw in the DLP design. You either learn to live with it or choose 3LCD/LCoS instead, unfortunately


It is in the basic design, but it can be solved, by the manufacturer adding a shield to the basic design. That is what JVC did with the LX-NZ3, since it does not have stray light issue.


----------



## eedwards86

Anyone know when this may be back in stock on Adorama? I ordered this at the original price a month ago and still on back order. Adorama hasn’t been much help in giving updates. Just curious.

Thanks


----------



## Kdub69

Any idea when the next firmware update is? Hoping soon to fix input lag


----------



## legnaz

Kev1000000 said:


> Yep, as I mentioned before, unless you really need a UST (like for a living room setup like mine), I highly recommend sticking with a standard throw projector. The hassle of running cables is worth it if you have a dedicated theater space. UST's are _perfect_ for specific types of environments, but I don't find them a good alternative to a standard throw in rooms that would allow for a standard throw projector.
> 
> Basically... if you _can't_ install a standard throw projector in your room for whatever reason, UST's are an awesome option for screen sizes 100"+ (paired with an ALR screen). If you _can_ install a ST in your room, just go with that for now. For the price, you'll get better PQ, overall easier room design, and a much easier to align screen.
> 
> I have a feeling USTs will get much better soon, but for people on the fence who can install a standard throw in their space, just do that.


Which 4k ST do you recommend? I still havent opened my p1 and might return it to best buy.


----------



## ProjectionHead

eedwards86 said:


> Anyone know when this may be back in stock on Adorama? I ordered this at the original price a month ago and still on back order. Adorama hasn’t been much help in giving updates. Just curious.
> 
> Thanks


ProjectorScreen has a couple dozen in stock and ready to ship, no idea about Adorama


----------



## Kev1000000

legnaz said:


> Which 4k ST do you recommend? I still havent opened my p1 and might return it to best buy.


For < $3000, nothing beats the Epson 5050 IMO. For around the same price range as the P1 (if you can find the right retailer), the JVC RS540 is a beast.


----------



## akm3

So I have a P1 for awhile. I like it, mostly. 

It's paired with an XY Screens ultra short throw. At night it looks great. With ambient light from above it looks great. During the day, in my hellish for a projector room it's so washed out I can't use it. A ton of light bouncing off everything washes it completely out.

During the night, it's a great picture. I am comparing to an OLED screen so I do miss having actually black blacks, and the 4k clarity is nowhere near as sharp as the OLED was.

Still, as long as I don't try to use it between 9am and 4pm (this will be much worse in the summer), it's great!
I can't emphasize how much it is my room more than the projector as the limiting factor. The entire left wall is window, 3' to the right of the screen entire BACK wall is also window. All the walls and ceilings are painted white, and the floor is polished concrete. ANY sun, anywhere, bounces enough to wash out the screen and the ambient light rejection can't cope because the angles aren't good.
As soon as the sun is gone, I can turn on the room lights and it's all peachy, and even better when off.


----------



## Micke S

chinmokutak said:


> Two months after getting the projector, finally semi-finished my man cave...
> 
> I've got to say I'm kinda disappointed I went with UST route... If I knew this was going to be this painful, I may have chosen ST or even LT route... Now, my issue could be unique, I had to use the floor-rising screen as I have not yet finished my basement, but it was extremely frustrating...
> 
> 
> 
> First of all, I found the image around the center of the screen being bigger than the edge, it exponentially exposes the screen un-uniformity, and to make it semi-perfect, it's really hard to move the projector while constantly looking up to see the impact to the picture. With ST and LT, you can kinda look straight at the screen to adjust. For some reason, I found it much harder to adjust UST PJs.
> 
> 
> 
> Second, I originally thought UST is great because it can hide cables and allows people to come in and out, but what I didn't realize was, I have to place the projector where I would put the center channel. I had to come up with a creative way of putting the center channel. I bought those wooden crates and put the screen on top of it (and couple of printing papers I had lying around).
> 
> 
> 
> In general, I find that by having UST, you almost have to design the room around the specific pj you got, you have to worry about so many things, including buying stands for PJ, center speaker placement, screen placement, and it seems like nothing is easily adjustable by the screen.
> 
> 
> 
> At least it's almost done now...


Wouldn't ceiling mounting the P1, if it has an option for that, be a good compromise? Very short cable run and no issue with center speaker placement.


----------



## jmg999

akm3 said:


> So I have a P1 for awhile. I like it, mostly.
> 
> It's paired with an XY Screens ultra short throw. At night it looks great. With ambient light from above it looks great. During the day, in my hellish for a projector room it's so washed out I can't use it. A ton of light bouncing off everything washes it completely out.
> 
> During the night, it's a great picture. I am comparing to an OLED screen so I do miss having actually black blacks, and the 4k clarity is nowhere near as sharp as the OLED was.
> 
> Still, as long as I don't try to use it between 9am and 4pm (this will be much worse in the summer), it's great!
> I can't emphasize how much it is my room more than the projector as the limiting factor. The entire left wall is window, 3' to the right of the screen entire BACK wall is also window. All the walls and ceilings are painted white, and the floor is polished concrete. ANY sun, anywhere, bounces enough to wash out the screen and the ambient light rejection can't cope because the angles aren't good.
> As soon as the sun is gone, I can turn on the room lights and it's all peachy, and even better when off.



*I second that to 100%.* Have almost similar room preferences and replaced a 65" LG OLED with the UHZ65UST+120" PET Crystal from XYscreen. Great when all dark, good with ceiling lights on, ok during dusk/dawn but washed out and unbearable to watch in case of any sunlight. Have sun blocking curtains covering the entire glass wall but not ideal since it's supposed to be a livingroom.

Haven't seen any other UST ALR screens so not sure but assume they all suffer similar from sun light. At least now I know why the XYscreen showroom in the Guangzhou plant doesn't have any windows.

On the psoitive side, there should be enough space between the projector and the wall/screen for a complementary rollable and rising daytime OLED TV once these are released.


----------



## jmg999

jmg999 said:


> *I second that to 100%.* Have almost similar room preferences and replaced a 65" LG OLED with the UHZ65UST+120" PET Crystal from XYscreen. Great when all dark, good with ceiling lights on, ok during dusk/dawn but washed out and unbearable to watch in case of any sunlight. Have sun blocking curtains covering the entire glass wall but not ideal since it's supposed to be a livingroom.
> 
> Haven't seen any other UST ALR screens so not sure but assume they all suffer similar from sun light. At least now I know why the XYscreen showroom in the Guangzhou plant doesn't have any windows.
> 
> On the psoitive side, there should be enough space between the projector and the wall/screen for a complementary rollable and rising daytime OLED TV once these are released.


Tired in my head... Additional, not complementary TV


----------



## steve jacko

Has anyone in the US attempted using a drop ship company to purchase this from Amazon Canada? The price after conversion for the Optoma and LG are less. Optoma comes out to $3400ish and LG after conversion is $4500ish. If i can get them for that price i am willing to pay 150 for a drop ship service. Any recommendations for canadian dropship service?


----------



## tambur123

Has anyone managed to get HDR working at 10 bit 4:2:0 trough apple tv 4k? Weirdest thing is the fact that it works only when I reset the video settings from apple tv. All Netflix titles look washed out when HDR is enabled, like the color space is wrong. I have no problem with an older Sony UBD player or ps4.


----------



## chinmokutak

Micke S said:


> Wouldn't ceiling mounting the P1, if it has an option for that, be a good compromise? Very short cable run and no issue with center speaker placement.


It could have been, but UST does not have a vertical offset, so you always end up having the device 6 inches above the screen. To me, that seems more annoying than having a device 6 inches below screen.
Also, I have an unfinished basement, and I was told by my other half that nothing can be drilled


----------



## g3m

tambur123 said:


> Has anyone managed to get HDR working at 10 bit 4:2:0 trough apple tv 4k? Weirdest thing is the fact that it works only when I reset the video settings from apple tv. All Netflix titles look washed out when HDR is enabled, like the color space is wrong. I have no problem with an older Sony UBD player or ps4.



Hi, I'm new to the forum! Sorry in advance, since this is my first post, I can't display images directly in the post, please see the attached images below. 


I did some testing and it seems the Apple TV 4K, when configured with Match Content (Range & Frame Rate), will output 12 bits & 4.2.2 & HDR10 when playing [email protected] HDR content for the Optoma Cinemax P1. However, the projector doesn't seem to accept this output and will "convert it" to HDR 8 bits & 4.2.2 according to the Input Source Information Menu. This results in color banding that can be noticeable depending on the scene. 

I'm not sure how the projector is displaying 8 bits color depth since HDR10 is, to my understanding, 10 bits. According to the projector datasheet, it should be able to accept 12 bits & 4:4:4 or 4:2:2 when playing [email protected] Surely, it should be the able to handle HDR content @24Hz and give a better result since color banding is a lot less noticeable on SDR content. For example, almost no color banding was perceived on Blade Runner 2049 'Ruins of Las Vegas' Scene (SDR version) on Netflix.

The testing was done using S1:EP1 of Altered Carbon (HDR title) on Netflix using the projector on a white wall (sorry for the quality, I do not have a screen yet). The Apple TV output was measured using a Denon AVR-X3600H which can display HDMI signal information from the source. 

At 34:59, you can notice color banding in the sky. 

The test was also done after resetting the Apple TV to default video settings. This removes any Match Content settings and defaults to an HDR output for all content, which is not "acceptable" but was done for the sake of testing purposes. In this case, the Apple TV is sending 10 bits & 4.2.0 and the same is displayed by the projector. However, the color banding is still visible, I see almost no difference.

Finally, I forced SDR on all content by changing the Apple TV video format setting. This resulted in 8 bits & *4.4.4. *The color banding was greatly reduced to my eye. However, HDR was lost.

The test was also done using the Apple TV directly connected to the projector (without an AVR) and the projector still displayed color banding with HDR 8 bits & 4.2.2 when using Match Content settings.

I did some limited testing on Prime Videos HDR content with the same results.

HDMI cables are Amazon Basics High-Speed 4K HDMI Cable (3 foots). I'm waiting for certified high speed Monoprice HDMI cables to do another batch of test, but I do not have high hopes it will change the results.

Was anyone successful at outputting better color depth and chroma on HDR content while using the Match Content settings on their Apple TV 4k? I will probably open a ticket with Optoma support to see if this is a bug.

Thank you!


----------



## tambur123

Thanks for the detailed testing. I’m in the same boat as you, waiting for the delivery of the highest quality hdmi cable I could find and hoping it will work. My guess is that this is a handshake issue and I’m afraid I’ll have to give up atv4k and go with a different streamer for netflix.


----------



## Ikara-colt

Same issue here with an Apple 4K TV. It’s stuck on 8b and BT.709 even at lower refresh rate like 30Hz (I believe the spec sheet mentions that at 4.2.2 & 60Hz it only supports 8bit).

I also see that color space is stuck at BT.709 in HDR and all settings which is odd as I thought it supported the wide color gamut...

I believe it’s a firmware bug (likely handshake/ discovery) as switching from HDMI 2.0 to 1.4 and back to 2.0 at times helps the projector recognize the output (e.g., on my PS4 pro it wouldn’t recognize that it’s 4K/ HDR compatible).

It’s a bit frustrating as the wider color space + color bit rates were the two features that decided me to take the P1 over the VAVA- I might just return the P1 and go with the VAVA if this doesn’t get fixed in the next 2-3 weeks...


----------



## g3m

I opened a support ticket with Optoma (Case #00363067 ) with details about the issue and a link to this thread. I will keep you posted.


----------



## tambur123

I’ve reread all the threads regarding this projector and HDR issues on french, uk and german forums. It is safe to say that, for now, hdr is broken and there is no workaround.


----------



## Kev1000000

The lack of firmware updates for input lag and other issues (like not remember which display mode was used after switching from HDR) is quite concerning. Any news?


----------



## akm3

tambur123 said:


> Has anyone managed to get HDR working at 10 bit 4:2:0 trough apple tv 4k? Weirdest thing is the fact that it works only when I reset the video settings from apple tv. All Netflix titles look washed out when HDR is enabled, like the color space is wrong. I have no problem with an older Sony UBD player or ps4.


I have this problem too. Apple TV looks washed out, including netflix. Picture looks better when viewing non HDR content. Not sure what is wrong.


----------



## g3m

Good news, I got a reply from Optoma support concerning the 8 bit & 4.2.2 issue for Apple TV 4k (Case #00363067 ).



> I've escalated your question to our product manager. He will respond to your post on AVSfourm. To reduce the color banding, on the Apple TV switch it to 10 bit 4.2.2, also lower the brilliant color setting in the projector. He was also asking if you tested using the HDMI cable that came with the projector. Right now he is during further testing regarding the 8 bit & 4.2.2 he will reach out on AVSfourm.


I replied:



> It is not possible to force the color depth on the Apple TV 4k, only the Chroma, SDR/HDR and the refresh rate. When forcing the Chroma to 4.2.2 and [email protected] for all content, the results is still HDR 8 bits & 4.2.2 when displayed by the projector and the color banding is still there. Moreover, many users who want to view their content as intended by the film makers will configure their Apple TV with Match Content (Range & Frame Rate). In this mode, refresh rate and SDR/HDR is automatically configured to match the content and we still get 8 bits & 4.2.2 from the projector.
> 
> The test has been done with the Apple TV 4K directly connected to the projector with the cable provided with the projector. Also, the tests were done today with Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI Cable - Black - 6 Feet (3 Pack) [email protected] HDR 18Gbps 28AWG YUV 4:4:4 connected to a Denon AVR-X3600H with the same results.


Hopefully, we will get acknowledgement of the issue and a fix!


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Not mine. Just giving peeps some ideas...


----------



## tambur123

Kev1000000 said:


> The lack of firmware updates for input lag and other issues (like not remember which display mode was used after switching from HDR) is quite concerning. Any news?


As per the response I've received from Optoma rep, they have no ETA for a fix. Personally I don't know if they are aware of all the issues or if they can be fixed via firmware updates.


----------



## g3m

I got an acknowledgement from Optoma support yesterday about the validation of issue concerning the output of only 8 bits & 4.2.2 when using the the Apple TV 4k and that *there will be a firmware fix for that (*case #00363067*). *Their product manager is doing additional tests and should post here at one point to clarify for everybody.


----------



## eedwards86

g3m said:


> I got an acknowledgement from Optoma support yesterday about the validation of issue concerning the output of only 8 bits & 4.2.2 when using the the Apple TV 4k and that *there will be a firmware fix for that (*case #00363067*). *Their product manager is doing additional tests and should post here at one point to clarify for everybody.


Is it possible Nvidia Shield as a similar problem? Settings on the shield are UHD 23.98hz (or 60hz), 4:2:2 Rec.2020 HDR but no HDR content actually shows as HDR. Optoma will see this as Rec.709 SDR


----------



## gollygosh

*A review*

https://www.homecinemachoice.com/content/optoma-uhz65ust-projector


----------



## tambur123

gollygosh said:


> https://www.homecinemachoice.com/content/optoma-uhz65ust-projector


Such a frugal review, no measurements, no test patterns, no calibration notes, just a 5/5 score. I’m not even sure this qualifies as a review.


----------



## Christian Spiga

eedwards86 said:


> Is it possible Nvidia Shield as a similar problem? Settings on the shield are UHD 23.98hz (or 60hz), 4:2:2 Rec.2020 HDR but no HDR content actually shows as HDR. Optoma will see this as Rec.709 SDR


Color Depth 

3840 x 2160 @30Hz YUV 4:4:4 (8bit, 10bit, 12bit), YUV 4:2:2
(8bit, 10bit, 12bit), YUV 4:2:0 (8bit, 10bit, 12bit)

3840 x 2160 @60Hz YUV 4:4:4 (8bit), YUV 4:2:2 (8bit), YUV
4:2:0 (8bit, 10bit, 12bit)

This are the supported fornat from Optoma P1, if you set on 60Hz 4:2:2 can be only 8bit, so no HDR, must be an option to allow downsampling at 4:2:0


----------



## Christian Spiga

Hey Guys, so, i had the Optoma P1 since october, in general i'm happy about, but with my XBOX ONE X i don't find a correct configuration with the games that are in HDR.
The image seem like washed and don't satisfy me.

Some one of you have an Xbox One X, which video settings do you use?

Thanks


----------



## legnaz

Can anyone recommend a good screen or material i can buy to make my own? Looking for the best possible image and 120". Thanks.


----------



## tambur123

I would go with a regular gray screen with low gain.


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

g3m said:


> Hi, I'm new to the forum! Sorry in advance, since this is my first post, I can't display images directly in the post, please see the attached images below.
> 
> 
> I did some testing and it seems the Apple TV 4K, when configured with Match Content (Range & Frame Rate), will output 12 bits & 4.2.2 & HDR10 when playing [email protected] HDR content for the Optoma Cinemax P1. However, the projector doesn't seem to accept this output and will "convert it" to HDR 8 bits & 4.2.2 according to the Input Source Information Menu. This results in color banding that can be noticeable depending on the scene.
> 
> I'm not sure how the projector is displaying 8 bits color depth since HDR10 is, to my understanding, 10 bits. According to the projector datasheet, it should be able to accept 12 bits & 4:4:4 or 4:2:2 when playing [email protected] Surely, it should be the able to handle HDR content @24Hz and give a better result since color banding is a lot less noticeable on SDR content. For example, almost no color banding was perceived on Blade Runner 2049 'Ruins of Las Vegas' Scene (SDR version) on Netflix.
> 
> The testing was done using S1:EP1 of Altered Carbon (HDR title) on Netflix using the projector on a white wall (sorry for the quality, I do not have a screen yet). The Apple TV output was measured using a Denon AVR-X3600H which can display HDMI signal information from the source.
> 
> At 34:59, you can notice color banding in the sky.
> 
> The test was also done after resetting the Apple TV to default video settings. This removes any Match Content settings and defaults to an HDR output for all content, which is not "acceptable" but was done for the sake of testing purposes. In this case, the Apple TV is sending 10 bits & 4.2.0 and the same is displayed by the projector. However, the color banding is still visible, I see almost no difference.
> 
> Finally, I forced SDR on all content by changing the Apple TV video format setting. This resulted in 8 bits & *4.4.4. *The color banding was greatly reduced to my eye. However, HDR was lost.
> 
> The test was also done using the Apple TV directly connected to the projector (without an AVR) and the projector still displayed color banding with HDR 8 bits & 4.2.2 when using Match Content settings.
> 
> I did some limited testing on Prime Videos HDR content with the same results.
> 
> HDMI cables are Amazon Basics High-Speed 4K HDMI Cable (3 foots). I'm waiting for certified high-speed Monoprice HDMI cables to do another batch of test, but I do not have high hopes it will change the results.
> 
> Was anyone successful at outputting better color depth and chroma on HDR content while using the Match Content settings on their Apple TV 4k? I will probably open a ticket with Optoma support to see if this is a bug.
> 
> Thank you!


Hello - sorry for the delay in response.

Apple TV 4K 4:2:2 falling to 8-bit is under investigation. We will provide an update in the near future. In the meantime - please use 4:2:0. 

NOTE: Natively the projector is 10-bit 4:2:0 and will accept 4:2:2 and 4:4:4. 

1. I spent a lot of time with Altered Carbon via Netflix on Apple TV 4K in 4:2:2 (currently 8-bit) and 4:2:0.

In 4:2:2 (8-bit) -- No noticeable color banding in the Sky. Color banding is more pronounced and well, looks like a band. What I believe you are referring to is the slight contouring on the far left side (clouds) -- this is the result of the white level brightness bump from HDR tone mapping AND the projector running in 8-bit mode. HDR 4:2:2 shows the effect while SDR is nearly free of the effect. Once the 4:2:2 issue has been resolved -- this should no longer be an issue. 4:2:0 is sharp and clean - no visible artifacts or banding. 

In addition, your overall image quality will improve once you acquire a screen. 

I assume you are using the Apple TV 4K for Amazon Prime Video as well?

Yes -- bandwidth between SDR and HDR is very different -- there will always be a difference between the two in output (regardless of whether the 8-bit issue exists or not). 

If there is anything else -- please let me know.


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

Christian Spiga said:


> Hey Guys, so, i had the Optoma P1 since october, in general i'm happy about, but with my XBOX ONE X i don't find a correct configuration with the games that are in HDR.
> The image seem like washed and don't satisfy me.
> 
> Some one of you have an Xbox One X, which video settings do you use?
> 
> Thanks


Hello -- I use an Xbox One X with P1. 

What games? If the game supports HDR, are you using the HDR tuning setting in the game? Just about every HDR game pushes you to tune the HDR image before gameplay.

In terms of Xbox settings -- 10-bit and the default color gamut is good (marked as recommended). 

Under TV and Display Settings, select 4K TV Details -- take a pic and post for me.


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

eedwards86 said:


> Is it possible Nvidia Shield as a similar problem? Settings on the shield are UHD 23.98hz (or 60hz), 4:2:2 Rec.2020 HDR but no HDR content actually shows as HDR. Optoma will see this as Rec.709 SDR


Hello -- in 8-bit or 10-bit HDR should work. The 4:2:2 issue we identified thus far is Apple TV 4K. I will check Shield.

What content or service are you using on Shield?


----------



## tambur123

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Hello -- I use an Xbox One X with P1.
> 
> What games? If the game supports HDR, are you using the HDR tuning setting in the game? Just about every HDR game pushes you to tune the HDR image before gameplay.
> 
> In terms of Xbox settings -- 10-bit and the default color gamut is good (marked as recommended).
> 
> Under TV and Display Settings, select 4K TV Details -- take a pic and post for me.


I don’t have an XBOX ONE X but I’m willing to buy one if it works ok for UBD movies. In HDR, does the projector show, under input signal, BT.2020 as the selected color space?


----------



## Fedder

Anyone with insider info about the input lag being fixed for game mode anytime soon?


----------



## copperfield74

No matter what I stream via my Amazon 4K TV Stick, it's always 8 bit BT.709!
In the settings of the stick I enabled 12 bit and set the color to Y'CbCr. I've tried different HDR content like THE WITCHER and THE IRISH MAN but it remains 8 bit!
Is there a specific movie or series that I can try that has to should show up as 10 (or 12) bit BT.2020?


My setup is ONKYO TR-NX696 which handles all my HDMI inputs.


I now tried AVENGERS ENDGAME 4K HDR with my UHD Player. It's strange what it shows.
As you can see in the first picture the Infotab of the Optoma shows SDR content, but the Onkyo shows that it has HDR input, but when I open the Inputtab of the Optoma (second picture) it shows that it has HDR content.


Not sure if the problem is Optoma or my setup?


PS: Sorry that the pictures are upside down. On my computer they are orientated the right way, and if I turn them and upload again the are still upside down.


----------



## bjanssen

Fedder said:


> Anyone with insider info about the input lag being fixed for game mode anytime soon?


Yes, any info at all would be appreciated @OPTOMA PM DUDE


----------



## g4s

copperfield74 said:


> No matter what I stream via my Amazon 4K TV Stick, it's always 8 bit BT.709!
> In the settings of the stick I enabled 12 bit and set the color to Y'CbCr. I've tried different HDR content like THE WITCHER and THE IRISH MAN but it remains 8 bit!
> Is there a specific movie or series that I can try that has to should show up as 10 (or 12) bit BT.2020?
> 
> 
> My setup is ONKYO TR-NX696 which handles all my HDMI inputs.
> 
> 
> I now tried AVENGERS ENDGAME 4K HDR with my UHD Player. It's strange what it shows.
> As you can see in the first picture the Infotab of the Optoma shows SDR content, but the Onkyo shows that it has HDR input, but when I open the Inputtab of the Optoma (second picture) it shows that it has HDR content.
> 
> 
> Not sure if the problem is Optoma or my setup?
> 
> 
> PS: Sorry that the pictures are upside down. On my computer they are orientated the right way, and if I turn them and upload again the are still upside down.


I have the same behavior with my Nvidia Shield. That indicator that shows when it starts playing in your second picture, is always correct. The info tab isn't. The info tab also will give different SDR HDR info depending on if you're displaying 24hz or 60hz material. It would be nice to know if we're displaying bt2020 color space on our screens or not.
Another observation, Puremotion and 2160p 24hz playback has audio sync problems. Puremotion and 2160p 60hz works fine.


----------



## legnaz

Do you guys recommend this screen 

https://www.carlofet.com/shop/projector-screen-material?screen_material=Ambient+Light+Rejecting+%28ALR%29&aspect_ratio=16%3A9&finished_edge=Raw+Material&seam=Seamless&packaging=Rolled+on+a+Tube&size=135"+%2867x118%29

Or 

https://www.amazon.com/STR-169120-S...rojector&qid=1579321045&sprefix=alr+sc&sr=8-4

Or any others below $300.


----------



## legnaz

g4s said:


> copperfield74 said:
> 
> 
> 
> No matter what I stream via my Amazon 4K TV Stick, it's always 8 bit BT.709!
> In the settings of the stick I enabled 12 bit and set the color to Y'CbCr. I've tried different HDR content like THE WITCHER and THE IRISH MAN but it remains 8 bit!
> Is there a specific movie or series that I can try that has to should show up as 10 (or 12) bit BT.2020?
> 
> 
> My setup is ONKYO TR-NX696 which handles all my HDMI inputs.
> 
> 
> I now tried AVENGERS ENDGAME 4K HDR with my UHD Player. It's strange what it shows.
> As you can see in the first picture the Infotab of the Optoma shows SDR content, but the Onkyo shows that it has HDR input, but when I open the Inputtab of the Optoma (second picture) it shows that it has HDR content.
> 
> 
> Not sure if the problem is Optoma or my setup?
> 
> 
> PS: Sorry that the pictures are upside down. On my computer they are orientated the right way, and if I turn them and upload again the are still upside down.
> 
> 
> 
> I have the same behavior with my Nvidia Shield. That indicator that shows when it starts playing in your second picture, is always correct. The info tab isn't. The info tab also will give different SDR HDR info depending on if you're displaying 24hz or 60hz material. It would be nice to know if we're displaying bt2020 color space on our screens or not.
> Another observation, Puremotion and 2160p 24hz playback has audio sync problems. Puremotion and 2160p 60hz works fine.
Click to expand...


Sooo after all these faults, are you guys still happy with the projector? I havent opened mine due to a %15 restocking fee if I open it. I want to so bad, but so many complaints. I was just about to open it tonight then I came here. I have until Feb 2nd. What should I do?


----------



## tambur123

legnaz said:


> Sooo after all these faults, are you guys still happy with the projector? I havent opened mine due to a %15 restocking fee if I open it. I want to so bad, but so many complaints. I was just about to open it tonight then I came here. I have until Feb 2nd. What should I do?


Definitely! If I’d knew all this before placing my preorder I’ll still do it. The image that this thing displays it’s a sight to behold.
There are only 2 complaints that I’m aware of: HDR not working properly and higher input lag than 50ms advertised.


----------



## jmg999

legnaz said:


> Sooo after all these faults, are you guys still happy with the projector? I havent opened mine due to a %15 restocking fee if I open it. I want to so bad, but so many complaints. I was just about to open it tonight then I came here. I have until Feb 2nd. What should I do?


Definately but get a good screen. Have a bright white room with huge windows in all directions and a 120" ALR, great image when dark, perfectly ok with all the lights on but crap and really washed out during both indirect and direct sunlight. Personally I'm considering a 100" limited fresnel now but much more expensive.

Also, to avoid green image flicker in spite of good cables (drove me crazy and was about to reutrn my unit) immediately change the video settings yourself or use the settings posted by Christian Spiga in post #1799 . Haven't investigated this but for me it seems the CINEMA mode is causing the green flicker and once you change to user settings the flicker is gone. Will have my unit calibrated once it has hundredish hour on it. Enjoy!


----------



## g4s

legnaz said:


> Sooo after all these faults, are you guys still happy with the projector? I havent opened mine due to a %15 restocking fee if I open it. I want to so bad, but so many complaints. I was just about to open it tonight then I came here. I have until Feb 2nd. What should I do?


Yes, I love this projector. The image it produces, especially HDR is stellar. An ALR screen is really the way to go also. 
First generation products will always have a few quirks and issues. Thankfully these things can be addressed with updates.


----------



## copperfield74

legnaz said:


> Sooo after all these faults, are you guys still happy with the projector? I havent opened mine due to a %15 restocking fee if I open it. I want to so bad, but so many complaints. I was just about to open it tonight then I came here. I have until Feb 2nd. What should I do?



To be honest....it sucks to be an unpaid beta tester.....BUT....I love the projector! It's picture is beautiful, the 3D works like a charm and it's really quiet.


The only flaws are the input lag, only two adjustable feet and the HDR display, so we don't know exactly what the projector really outputs. And it would have been great if the projector was closer at the wall.


----------



## eedwards86

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Hello -- in 8-bit or 10-bit HDR should work. The 4:2:2 issue we identified thus far is Apple TV 4K. I will check Shield.
> 
> What content or service are you using on Shield?


I'm running Netflix, Hulu, Amazon Prime, Disney+, youtube and soon Plex.


----------



## bona

copperfield74 said:


> To be honest....it sucks to be an unpaid beta tester.....BUT....I love the projector! It's picture is beautiful, the 3D works like a charm and it's really quiet.
> 
> 
> The only flaws are the input lag, only two adjustable feet and the HDR display, so we don't know exactly what the projector really outputs. And it would have been great if the projector was closer at the wall.




When you say input lag, is that the delay from when the projector receives the video signal to showing it on the screen (effecting gaming or interactions), or is it a delay when switching inputs? If it is the first, is it reasonable for a non serious gamer? Thanks. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## bona

Does anyone know if there is a local dealer in Phoenix or Tucson that has this projector in a demo room?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Fedder

bona said:


> When you say input lag, is that the delay from when the projector receives the video signal to showing it on the screen (effecting gaming or interactions), or is it a delay when switching inputs? If it is the first, is it reasonable for a non serious gamer? Thanks.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


We mean input lag as in gaming when we say it, yes.


----------



## copperfield74

bona said:


> When you say input lag, is that the delay from when the projector receives the video signal to showing it on the screen (effecting gaming or interactions), or is it a delay when switching inputs? If it is the first, is it reasonable for a non serious gamer? Thanks.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro



Like Fedder already said it's the gaming lag. To be honest I Haven't played any competative shooters yet, but I trust the other guys. I've just played some PS4 and the lag was okay, no noticable problems, but really fast paced games with mouse and keyboard could encounter problems.


----------



## kalle4242

copperfield74 said:


> No matter what I stream via my Amazon 4K TV Stick, it's always 8 bit BT.709!
> In the settings of the stick I enabled 12 bit and set the color to Y'CbCr. I've tried different HDR content like THE WITCHER and THE IRISH MAN but it remains 8 bit!
> Is there a specific movie or series that I can try that has to should show up as 10 (or 12) bit BT.2020?
> 
> 
> My setup is ONKYO TR-NX696 which handles all my HDMI inputs.
> 
> 
> I now tried AVENGERS ENDGAME 4K HDR with my UHD Player. It's strange what it shows.
> As you can see in the first picture the Infotab of the Optoma shows SDR content, but the Onkyo shows that it has HDR input, but when I open the Inputtab of the Optoma (second picture) it shows that it has HDR content.
> 
> 
> Not sure if the problem is Optoma or my setup?
> 
> 
> PS: Sorry that the pictures are upside down. On my computer they are orientated the right way, and if I turn them and upload again the are still upside down.


No problems here with my 4K stick (directly connected to HDMI 1). I am getting the full 12bit regarding to the Optoma info panel, tested with James May in Japan, The Expanse. Settings are the same as your´s only I am forcing HDR instead auto.


----------



## Kev1000000

bona said:


> When you say input lag, is that the delay from when the projector receives the video signal to showing it on the screen (effecting gaming or interactions), or is it a delay when switching inputs? If it is the first, is it reasonable for a non serious gamer? Thanks.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


Yes, it's the first one. When the projector receives a video frame, it currently takes about 120ms+ to actually project that frame to the user, meaning that *any* input, whether it be a remote control, a controller for video games, a mouse, keyboard, etc are all affected. They all feel very slow and unresponsive.

However, the projector also has abysmally long bootup times, forcing you to wait and watch the Optoma logo for around 30 seconds. Being a laser projector, I was hoping for much quicker bootup times.


----------



## copperfield74

kalle4242 said:


> No problems here with my 4K stick (directly connected to HDMI 1). I am getting the full 12bit regarding to the Optoma info panel, tested with James May in Japan, The Expanse. Settings are the same as your´s only I am forcing HDR instead auto.



Hey Kalle, I can confirm that when I connect my BD Player directly with the projector I get 12bit!
So I now know, that it's not a problem with the cable. I think that the Onkyo 696 passthroughs the video signals without altering them. So why doesn't the projector display or get the correct signal?


----------



## J Bone

copperfield74 said:


> Hey Kalle, I can confirm that when I connect my BD Player directly with the projector I get 12bit!
> So I now know, that it's not a problem with the cable. I think that the Onkyo 696 passthroughs the video signals without altering them. So why doesn't the projector display or get the correct signal?




Out of the four devices (Home theater PC, Nvidia shield, Xbox one, Blu-ray disc player) I have running through my Denon receiver with pass-through to the Optoma projector, the Panasonic UB820 blu-ray player is the only one that is showing 12 bit.








I know for certain my Nvidia shield is set to process 12 bit but it is only ever displays 8 bit.

The last thing of note is it never has displayed under any circumstance REC 2020 color space even though two devices can confirm that signal is being sent.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## chinmokutak

Any one have the recomended settings?


----------



## legnaz

Do you guys have any links to recommended screens? Looking for 120 inches.


----------



## copperfield74

J Bone said:


> Out of the four devices (Home theater PC, Nvidia shield, Xbox one, Blu-ray disc player) I have running through my Denon receiver with pass-through to the Optoma projector, the Panasonic UB820 blu-ray player is the only one that is showing 12 bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know for certain my Nvidia shield is set to process 12 bit but it is only ever displays 8 bit.
> 
> The last thing of note is it never has displayed under any circumstance REC 2020 color space even though two devices can confirm that signal is being sent.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



I'm one step further! My AVR has a "secret" menue. In this menue I can switch between 4K STANDARD and 4K ENHANCED. After switching to enhanced I now have the right 12bit shown for Avengers and 10bit for THE WITCHER on Netflix.


----------



## J Bone

copperfield74 said:


> I'm one step further! My AVR has a "secret" menue. In this menue I can switch between 4K STANDARD and 4K ENHANCED. After switching to enhanced I now have the right 12bit shown for Avengers and 10bit for THE WITCHER on Netflix.


Denon AVR? I have a Denon x4400h and I am set to Enhanced as well. Have you been able to gain Rec 2020 color space?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## copperfield74

J Bone said:


> Denon AVR? I have a Denon x4400h and I am set to Enhanced as well. Have you been able to gain Rec 2020 color space?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I've the ONKYO TX-NR696, and NO I wasn't able to get BT2020. My wife is watching TV so I can't do further tests right now. But The AVENGERS should have shown Rec.2020 which it didn't.


----------



## solal-

I'm using an avrx-2600 (set to enhanced), an nvidia shield and moshou 8k cable & optical cable.

As I said in previous thread I can only get 10 or 12 bits @60 or @50hz with the shield, in HDR mode. @25hz or @30Hz the projector always go to 8bits. The projector is also not capable to handle settings like 23.976, or even 24hz the projector switch to 25hz (but I as cannot use it with 10 bits I'm stuck with @50hz or @60hz but most of the time I found the images smooth anyway). Also the projector never switch to 444 with the shield.



As for others here, with any settings the projector always show REC 709, but that didn't worry me, as most people should know this projector is NOT capable of doing REC 2020, and no actual UST projector is capable of displaying 100% of REC 2020. Also, I didn't know if there is a real difference when the projector show it output 8 bits or 10bits (at least it's the same for 12bits as the projector can show you it handle it but in fact the projector is certainly not capable of showing more different color in 10 or 12bits).


But there is something completely wrong with the projector (I will double check later because I'm not sure I made lot of test when I just got it and then always use the same mode RGB 8bits for non hdr and 420 10bits for HDR) when I use 444 or 422/12bits HDR mode with the nvidia shield, the projector show me that it display 10bits 420 but the color are totally wrong, and the image is awfull.


----------



## struggledave

Hi, since a few days the power light of my P1 flash in red when la off, I read that is a Lamp, fan or overheat failure, What can I do To fix this ?
Thank you very much for your time


----------



## J Bone

solal- said:


> I'm using an avrx-2600 (set to enhanced), an nvidia shield and moshou 8k cable & optical cable.
> 
> As I said in previous thread I can only get 10 or 12 bits @60 or @50hz with the shield, in HDR mode. @25hz or @30Hz the projector always go to 8bits. The projector is also not capable to handle settings like 23.976, or even 24hz the projector switch to 25hz (but I as cannot use it with 10 bits I'm stuck with @50hz or @60hz but most of the time I found the images smooth anyway). Also the projector never switch to 444 with the shield.
> 
> 
> 
> As for others here, with any settings the projector always show REC 709, but that didn't worry me, as most people should know this projector is NOT capable of doing REC 2020, and no actual UST projector is capable of displaying 100% of REC 2020. Also, I didn't know if there is a real difference when the projector show it output 8 bits or 10bits (at least it's the same for 12bits as the projector can show you it handle it but in fact the projector is certainly not capable of showing more different color in 10 or 12bits).
> 
> 
> But there is something completely wrong with the projector (I will double check later because I'm not sure I made lot of test when I just got it and then always use the same mode RGB 8bits for non hdr and 420 10bits for HDR) when I use 444 or 422/12bits HDR mode with the nvidia shield, the projector show me that it display 10bits 420 but the color are totally wrong, and the image is awfull.


Curious to know how you determined it is not compatible with Rec 2020? Are you assuming this because it just never has displayed anything other than Rec 709?

I'm hesitant to agree with you only for the fact that their datasheet specifically it states HDR10 compatibility with Rec 2020.

Unless this is something stated on their data sheet that is currently not correct, like the input lag we all have been experiencing.









Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## RobinsonCrusoe

Finally disabled HDR on Apple TV4k today, since i could not get an ok image and experienced frame drops (or short freezes) which could be replicated at the exact same time stamps. Those drops are not visible if i deactivate the dynamic range matching option and keep everything at SDR. Even if i force HDR, those drops are there and the colors look dull in comparison. Everything looks more colorful and plays better on SDR setting. Donˋt know why, perhaps the hdmi cables? The cables are Amazon high speed cables and have been used on my Oled before, displaying Dolby Vision with no problems.

The SDR picture looks really good by the way. Hope there will be a fix soon since the Apple TV 4K is my main input.


----------



## RobinsonCrusoe

Did some more testing. I think the dull HDR display is linked to movies or shows that are in Dolby Vision. The Apple TV4k shows this content as Dolby Vision and not just HDR (even tho projectors don’t support this). The Netflix App for example lables their shows and movies (which are in Dolby Vision when supported) as UltraHD in HDR10. This content looks great. But when i play itunes content, for example Lego Movie (which has the Dolby Vision logo) the color space and contrast is totally of and everything looks dull. I reproduced this „bug“ with different Dolby Vision content. HDR10 movies like The Marsian all look ok. 

Could anybody else please give this a try? Perhaps this could be helpful for Optoma and future updates. Or i could be totally wrong. 😋


----------



## legnaz

RobinsonCrusoe said:


> Did some more testing. I think the dull HDR display is linked to movies or shows that are in Dolby Vision. The Apple TV4k shows this content as Dolby Vision and not just HDR (even tho projectors donâ€™️t support this). The Netflix App for example lables their shows and movies (which are in Dolby Vision when supported) as UltraHD in HDR10. This content looks great. But when i play itunes content, for example Lego Movie (which has the Dolby Vision logo) the color space and contrast is totally of and everything looks dull. I reproduced this â€žbugâ€œ with different Dolby Vision content. HDR10 movies like The Marsian all look ok.
> 
> Could anybody else please give this a try? Perhaps this could be helpful for Optoma and future updates. Or i could be totally wrong. ðŸ˜‹



I think it is Dolby Vision. Same thing happened on my Sony tv before it got an update.


----------



## g4s

Are you guys using a microfiber lens cloth to clean the glass lens cover on top of the P1? I use one of those Rocket blowers for lenses usually, but sometimes that's not good enough, so I breath on it then gently wipe it with a lens cloth. The manual says to use a "special" cloth. I guess microfiber seems pretty "special".


----------



## Chapla1n

Joining the (small) throng of P1 users. Bought an "Amazon Renewed" unit for $2999 which is currently in transit, so we'll see what condition that turns up in


----------



## legnaz

Is there another forum for this projector? This one seems to be dying out.


----------



## tambur123

legnaz said:


> Is there another forum for this projector? This one seems to be dying out.


I guess everybody is waiting for some firmware updates to fix the existing issues. So far the silence is not very reassuring.


----------



## Kdub69

Here is a message from optoma when I asked about input lag,



I just spoke to my product manager, he said the update is roughly about 45 days out. The R&D work is in progress they are working to improve the input lag for 1080P and 4K signals. 


This was emailed back to me on January 10th


----------



## user2017

Sorry if this has been posted, but has anyone confirmed whether the P1 can indeed do 4:4:4 at 4K @ 60hz? I read from the specs that it should do be able to do this.


----------



## Rayyan S

user2017 said:


> Sorry if this has been posted, but has anyone confirmed whether the P1 can indeed do 4:4:4 at 4K @ 60hz? I read from the specs that it should do be able to do this.


Hi there, I get 4:4:4 4K @ 60hz on my P1. Not sure what bitrate it's at as I can't remember the last time I checked but hopefully that helps (and Death Stranding in HDR on my PS4 Pro looks amazing). I can check later today and confirm.


----------



## Rayyan S

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> NOTE: Natively the projector is 10-bit 4:2:0 and will accept 4:2:2 and 4:4:4.


Oh. Is this why I'm getting banding in HDR mode when playing Death Stranding on my PS4 Pro? I notice the clouds sometime band and I can't imagine why if the projector spec sheet says it does 4:4:4 8/10/12 bit.


----------



## tambur123

Just for the sake of testing I’ve downloaded some 4k hdr clips and watched them using the projector rudimentary media player. The colors were rich, well defined and the whole image looked pretty much perfect. I couldn’t see any discernible banding, but truthfully, they weren’t many scenes with specular highlights. The same clips played trough the apple tv 4k with the latest Infuse Media Player had the colors washed out with visible banding.


----------



## RobinsonCrusoe

Yup, just what i‘m experiencing. HDR with Apple TV4K is not working correctly. I leave my Apple TV4k on 4K SDR with Match Dynamic Content off. Hope there will be a fix soon


----------



## Rayyan S

Rayyan S said:


> Hi there, I get 4:4:4 4K @ 60hz on my P1. Not sure what bitrate it's at as I can't remember the last time I checked but hopefully that helps (and Death Stranding in HDR on my PS4 Pro looks amazing). I can check later today and confirm.


So just an update. I checked and it was 8 bit 4:2:2 4K HDR @ 60 fps for my PS4 Pro (Death Stranding). That was also the case for the specific youtube video i was on which was streamed from a Chromecast Ultra (not sure what bit depth the Ultra can do to be honest). I have to find a proper source to confirm if it'll do 4:4:4.

All that being said, the P1 datasheet says it can do 4:4:4 4K 60 @ 8 bit so I'd have to find a source that can do that to actually test. Hope that helps.


----------



## Chapla1n

Christian Spiga said:


> These are the calibrations setting.
> 
> I think is better if you set in Deutch the language so you find more easily the menus, and then you put back your favourite language





So far very much enjoying the picture quality, just streaming some 4k content from Amazon last night. Refurb unit seems to be fine so far.



Thanks Christian for the calibration settings, sorted out the green flashes I was seeing.


Have had to put a 200ms delay on my Denon amp to get sound to sync correctly though. Experimentation continues!


----------



## user2017

Rayyan S said:


> Hi there, I get 4:4:4 4K @ 60hz on my P1. Not sure what bitrate it's at as I can't remember the last time I checked but hopefully that helps (and Death Stranding in HDR on my PS4 Pro looks amazing). I can check later today and confirm.





Rayyan S said:


> So just an update. I checked and it was 8 bit 4:2:2 4K HDR @ 60 fps for my PS4 Pro (Death Stranding). That was also the case for the specific youtube video i was on which was streamed from a Chromecast Ultra (not sure what bit depth the Ultra can do to be honest). I have to find a proper source to confirm if it'll do 4:4:4.
> 
> All that being said, the P1 datasheet says it can do 4:4:4 4K 60 @ 8 bit so I'd have to find a source that can do that to actually test. Hope that helps.



Thanks for the effort so far. Can you (or anyone here) try to use a PC/laptop with a modern video card to test 4:4:4 at 4K @ 60hz?


----------



## user2017

tambur123 said:


> Definitely! If I’d knew all this before placing my preorder I’ll still do it. The image that this thing displays it’s a sight to behold.
> There are only 2 complaints that I’m aware of: HDR not working properly and higher input lag than 50ms advertised.



There is also the picture flickering problem ("Optoma P1 picture issues 1" on Youtube) which is apparently not yet fixed other than using workarounds such as switching inputs. 



Not sure about others but those are red flags in terms of basic manufacturing quality that prevent me from considering this projector until they are fixed.


----------



## g3m

Thank you. Yes, I use the Apple TV 4K for Amazon Prime Video as well.

It is not possible to use 4:2:0 once you change any video setting, such as match range & frame rate, on the Apple TV 4K. Once any setting is changed from the default video setting configuration, even if you try to force the Apple TV Chroma setting as you specified, the projector will output 4:2:2 8 bits, BT.709 for HDR content. This is what my documented tests have shown in my previous post as well as observations from other users in this forum. Have your tests shown otherwise? I suspect this is why HDR is not looking as it should. Optoma support confirmed that a firmware update would be necessary and that no ETA was provided by the product manager. 

Since this is an issue affecting a lot of clients, I would expect a more firm engagement on the part of Optoma to ensure that the projector can work as specified in the spec sheet. I believe reasonable to expect more from a premium product from a reputable company.

I suggest anyone that has an issue with this projector to open a support ticket on Optoma web site. Management is certainly not reading this forum, but probably tracking issues with the product with the support system.

For this particular issue, you can reference my case : 00363067



OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Hello - sorry for the delay in response.
> 
> Apple TV 4K 4:2:2 falling to 8-bit is under investigation. We will provide an update in the near future. In the meantime - please use 4:2:0.
> 
> NOTE: Natively the projector is 10-bit 4:2:0 and will accept 4:2:2 and 4:4:4.
> 
> 1. I spent a lot of time with Altered Carbon via Netflix on Apple TV 4K in 4:2:2 (currently 8-bit) and 4:2:0.
> 
> In 4:2:2 (8-bit) -- No noticeable color banding in the Sky. Color banding is more pronounced and well, looks like a band. What I believe you are referring to is the slight contouring on the far left side (clouds) -- this is the result of the white level brightness bump from HDR tone mapping AND the projector running in 8-bit mode. HDR 4:2:2 shows the effect while SDR is nearly free of the effect. Once the 4:2:2 issue has been resolved -- this should no longer be an issue. 4:2:0 is sharp and clean - no visible artifacts or banding.
> 
> In addition, your overall image quality will improve once you acquire a screen.
> 
> I assume you are using the Apple TV 4K for Amazon Prime Video as well?
> 
> Yes -- bandwidth between SDR and HDR is very different -- there will always be a difference between the two in output (regardless of whether the 8-bit issue exists or not).
> 
> If there is anything else -- please let me know.


----------



## Micke S

user2017 said:


> There is also the picture flickering problem ("Optoma P1 picture issues 1" on Youtube) which is apparently not yet fixed other than using workarounds such as switching inputs.
> 
> Not sure about others but those are red flags in terms of basic manufacturing quality that prevent me from considering this projector until they are fixed.


I don't think off buying something because some people have had minor issues like these (the problem was intermittent, after switching inputs) is a good strategy. Reading these forums, if putting off buying a projector because some of them have issues would lead to having no projector at all.


----------



## user2017

Micke S said:


> I don't think off buying something because some people have had minor issues like these (the problem was intermittent, after switching inputs) is a good strategy. Reading these forums, if putting off buying a projector because some of them have issues would lead to having no projector at all.



I first became aware of this possible issue from Amazon reviews and the Q&A there, then on Youtube. It's good if you don't have problems with your projector, and I understand not everyone cares about each problem to the same extent. Fortunately, there are many products and solutions for shoppers to choose from.


----------



## iiikz

Kdub69 said:


> Here is a message from optoma when I asked about input lag,
> 
> 
> 
> I just spoke to my product manager, he said the update is roughly about 45 days out. The R&D work is in progress they are working to improve the input lag for 1080P and 4K signals.
> 
> 
> This was emailed back to me on January 10th


Thank you for sharing your update on the lag issue. Fingers crossed. I would *love* to be able to play games with this setup... It’s completely unusable as-is for anything more than basic inputs.


----------



## iiikz

Does anyone know how to turn off automatic input selection? I only have two devices connected: AppleTV and a PS4, but AppleTV is 98% of my use (at least until lag issues improve).

Every single time I turn on the pj unit, AppleTV flashes on for a second, and then the pj acts like it switches inputs. It will then sit there showing the “no device connected” screen until I get the remote and manually re-select the AppleTV hdmi source. it’s driving me crazy, having to re-select every time, as well as manager leaving an extra remote laying out.


----------



## Chapla1n

iiikz said:


> Does anyone know how to turn off automatic input selection? I only have two devices connected: AppleTV and a PS4, but AppleTV is 98% of my use (at least until lag issues improve).
> 
> Every single time I turn on the pj unit, AppleTV flashes on for a second, and then the pj acts like it switches inputs. It will then sit there showing the “no device connected” screen until I get the remote and manually re-select the AppleTV hdmi source. it’s driving me crazy, having to re-select every time, as well as manager leaving an extra remote laying out.





Home Screen > Settings > Personalize > Input Source > Set "HDMI/USB Disk" to None from "Source Auto-change"?


----------



## iiikz

Chapla1n said:


> iiikz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know how to turn off automatic input selection? I only have two devices connected: AppleTV and a PS4, but AppleTV is 98% of my use (at least until lag issues improve).
> 
> Every single time I turn on the pj unit, AppleTV flashes on for a second, and then the pj acts like it switches inputs. It will then sit there showing the â€œno device connectedâ€ screen until I get the remote and manually re-select the AppleTV hdmi source. itâ€™️s driving me crazy, having to re-select every time, as well as manager leaving an extra remote laying out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Home Screen > Settings > Personalize > Input Source > Set "HDMI/USB Disk" to None from "Source Auto-change"?
Click to expand...

Thank you! I’m not sure how I missed it, but that is exactly what I was looking for.


----------



## DunMunro

And another review:

http://cine4home.de/test-optoma-uhz65ust-cinemax-das-wohnraumtaugliche-grossbild-wird-wirklichkeit/

use google translate for your language of choice.


----------



## Michel Vachta

RobinsonCrusoe said:


> Finally disabled HDR on Apple TV4k today, since i could not get an ok image and experienced frame drops (or short freezes) which could be replicated at the exact same time stamps. Those drops are not visible if i deactivate the dynamic range matching option and keep everything at SDR. Even if i force HDR, those drops are there and the colors look dull in comparison. Everything looks more colorful and plays better on SDR setting. Donˋt know why, perhaps the hdmi cables? The cables are Amazon high speed cables and have been used on my Oled before, displaying Dolby Vision with no problems.
> 
> The SDR picture looks really good by the way. Hope there will be a fix soon since the Apple TV 4K is my main input.


Hello RobinsonCrusoe,

I have an Apple tv4k also, and for me it's also is may main input. I also have the bug of short freezee in HDR, which can be replicated at the same time stamps !

BUT, i have found a way to eliminate all the short freezes in hdr mode with apple tv   it works 100% for me, and it could be interesting for you to try my trick 

1) start your movie in hdr mode
2) put movie on pause ( apple tv remote )
2) once the movie is started, go to the menu HDMI Setting on Optoma menu / EDID
3) put back to 1.4 setting , wait , and then put back to 2.0
4) play movie ( apple tv remote )

5) once movie is started again , you can put on pause / go forward or backward in the movie , you won't have any freeze any more.
6) but if you exit one time from hdr mode, or change fps, you will have to go to step 1

Enjoy !!

Sorry for my english ...


----------



## RobinsonCrusoe

Hi Michel,

that really works. This makes itunes 4K HDR movies finally watchable again. The colors are better too and the freezing is gone. 
So it really seems to be a hdmi handshake problem which is hopefully solved via firmware. I‘m still trying to figure out, if it only affects Dolby Vision titles. Perhaps you could give it a try, too. 

Thanks for testing and figuring this out.


----------



## KalEl38

Does anyone know how to rent a 3D movie from Vudu using an Nvidia Shield hooked to my Optoma P1? Vudu won't let me rent it because it doesn't think I have a "compatible tv". I was going to just manually turn on the 3D on the projector to see if Vudu would recognize it then, but apparently there is no way to manually turn 3D on. With my other Optoma projectors, there was just a button that I could press to turn 3D on/off. So if anyone has a solution, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.


----------



## KalEl38

KalEl38 said:


> Does anyone know how to rent a 3D movie from Vudu using an Nvidia Shield hooked to my Optoma P1? Vudu won't let me rent it because it doesn't think I have a "compatible tv". I was going to just manually turn on the 3D on the projector to see if Vudu would recognize it then, but apparently there is no way to manually turn 3D on. With my other Optoma projectors, there was just a button that I could press to turn 3D on/off. So if anyone has a solution, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.


I finally found one that I could rent, but the projector didn't switch to 3D. Not sure how to make it work.


----------



## diggumsmax

P1 on Grandview ALR screen. I was absolutely shocked at the difference it made. I have no frame of reference so I can't compare performance to the various other ALR screens out there. Please note that I have to take the screen off the wall and remount it as it's slightly off level in the material is slightly wrinkled in the lower left corner. I will post more once I get that corrected. 











Well, apparently Google photo/video links are not allowed. I've been trying to find some good non-copyright 4K HDR material because YouTube keeps yanking my videos even though I'm just trying to show off the screens performance with the Optima P1. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## DenisG

KalEl38 said:


> I finally found one that I could rent, but the projector didn't switch to 3D. Not sure how to make it work.


The shield doesn't support VUDU's 3D. For VUDU 3D I found using the VUDU app on a sony 3D bluray player works. Other brands of 3D bluray players might work but I can't say that for sure.


----------



## KalEl38

Thanks DenisG for the info. I was finally able to get a Vudu 3D movie to play using the PS4. According to what I found on an Nvidia forum, the Shield can technically play a 3D file/movie, but it won't send the signal to your tv/projector that it's 3D. So you have to manually switch on 3D on your tv/projector. I don't see any way to do this with the P1. With saying that, I have another Nvidia Shield hooked up to a 3D Samsung tv in another room and I tried to play the same 3D movie from Vudu on it. I manually turned on 3D on the tv and tried to play the movie, but a pop-up from Vudu told me that my device wasn't 3D compatible. So I'm not sure if what I found on the Nvidia forum was correct or not, but it did not work for me.


----------



## g4s

diggumsmax said:


> P1 on Grandview ALR screen. I was absolutely shocked at the difference it made. I have no frame of reference so I can't compare performance to the various other ALR screens out there. Please note that I have to take the screen off the wall and remount it as it's slightly off level in the material is slightly wrinkled in the lower left corner. I will post more once I get that corrected.
> 
> https://youtu.be/8S6v0hnzQ4E
> 
> https://youtu.be/TiHvElnBwHI
> 
> Well, apparently Google photo/video links are not allowed. I've been trying to find some good non-copyright 4K HDR material because YouTube keeps yanking my videos even though I'm just trying to show off the screens performance with the Optima P1.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Looks great. We've got a 120" XY ALR screen. Those screens make a huge difference. If you get a chance to check out "Gemini Man" in 4k HDR. It was shot at 60 FPS. The detail and sharpness is unreal.


----------



## diggumsmax

g4s said:


> Looks great. We've got a 120" XY ALR screen. Those screens make a huge difference. If you get a chance to check out "Gemini Man" in 4k HDR. It was shot at 60 FPS. The detail and sharpness is unreal.


Funny that you had mentioned that. I also uploaded this the other day. I need to make it through that movie and pay attention. I just keep looking at how good the picture looks, Even when you have a 6-year watt bulb 2 ft from the screen






Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## legnaz

diggumsmax said:


> g4s said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks great. We've got a 120" XY ALR screen. Those screens make a huge difference. If you get a chance to check out "Gemini Man" in 4k HDR. It was shot at 60 FPS. The detail and sharpness is unreal.
> 
> 
> 
> Funny that you had mentioned that. I also uploaded this the other day. I need to make it through that movie and pay attention. I just keep looking at how good the picture looks, Even when you have a 6-year watt bulb 2 ft from the screen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Where did you guys buy your screens at? Anyone had any luck with CarlsPlace? I need to find a screen under $300. Thanks.


----------



## diggumsmax

legnaz said:


> Where did you guys buy your screens at? Anyone had any luck with CarlsPlace? I need to find a screen under $300. Thanks.


I bought mine from projectotscreen . Com. Your not going to find anything that does decent Amen light rejection for that cost. there will be some people on here that may say painting the wall is the best way but there's some other things to consider. The wall has to be completely flat and level. Any distortion is extremely noticable when using UST. I noticed imperfections in my Stuart fire hawk that I never saw on the stand your throat projector. 

I don't trust that paint from Amazon, I could be wrong as I've never seen it. Cheapest you're going to get is XY screens. they're based out of China so shipping can be a headache and if you have to do a return the turnaround time is quite high. Search these forms, you'll hear people who got great screens from them and then your nightmare scenarios. I would personally suggest the Elite Screens CLR. It's the most reasonable priced one that has support. I would avoid the [email protected] until user feedback on this site. it rejects less overhead light but works with ultra short throw projectors and short throw projectors

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## legnaz

diggumsmax said:


> legnaz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Where did you guys buy your screens at? Anyone had any luck with CarlsPlace? I need to find a screen under $300. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> I bought mine from projectotscreen . Com. Your not going to find anything that does decent Amen light rejection for that cost. there will be some people on here that may say painting the wall is the best way but there's some other things to consider. The wall has to be completely flat and level. Any distortion is extremely noticable when using UST. I noticed imperfections in my Stuart fire hawk that I never saw on the stand your throat projector.
> 
> I don't trust that paint from Amazon, I could be wrong as I've never seen it. Cheapest you're going to get is XY screens. they're based out of China so shipping can be a headache and if you have to do a return the turnaround time is quite high. Search these forms, you'll hear people who got great screens from them and then your nightmare scenarios. I would personally suggest the Elite Screens CLR. It's the most reasonable priced one that has support. I would avoid the [email protected] until user feedback on this site. it rejects less overhead light but works with ultra short throw projectors and short throw projectors
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Thanks! I was eyeing this screen that was recommended by carls
https://www.carlofet.com/shop/projector-screen-material?screen_material=Ultra-Gray&finished_edge=Raw+Material&seam=Seamless&aspect_ratio=16%3A9&packaging=Rolled+on+a+Tube&size=145"+%2871x126%29

Its the ultra gray. $120.


----------



## Chapla1n

Anyone work out how to send audio to the Optoma soundbar via a Denon amp?


I have a Roku going into a Denon 3500, (ARC turned on in the HDMI menu) then into the HDMI Arc input on the projector, but no sound.


Hmm, haven't rerun Audyssey setup, but wouldn't have thought that'd be the issue?


(If I connect a source directly to the projector, (UHD player/USB stick) I get sound aok.)



Thanks!


----------



## Chapla1n

Chapla1n said:


> Anyone work out how to send audio to the Optoma soundbar via a Denon amp?
> 
> 
> I have a Roku going into a Denon 3500, (ARC turned on in the HDMI menu) then into the HDMI Arc input on the projector, but no sound.
> 
> 
> Hmm, haven't rerun Audyssey setup, but wouldn't have thought that'd be the issue?
> 
> 
> (If I connect a source directly to the projector, (UHD player/USB stick) I get sound aok.)
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Ah, answering my own question... missed that there's a specific HDMI Arc output connection on the 3500, will try that first, eh? 


https://www.westcoasthifi.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/avr-x3500h_gallery2_eu.png


----------



## Fedder

Chapla1n said:


> Anyone work out how to send audio to the Optoma soundbar via a Denon amp?
> 
> 
> I have a Roku going into a Denon 3500, (ARC turned on in the HDMI menu) then into the HDMI Arc input on the projector, but no sound.
> 
> 
> Hmm, haven't rerun Audyssey setup, but wouldn't have thought that'd be the issue?
> 
> 
> (If I connect a source directly to the projector, (UHD player/USB stick) I get sound aok.)
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


On my Denon reciever you need to go to Setup >Video > HDMI Setup > HDMI Audio Out. Change that to TV.
I would also go into Setup >Video >HDMI Setup> 4K Signal format and change the signal to enchanced or you wont be able to use HDR at 4k 60fps. 

This is just for my AVR though, you should check your manual to be sure.


----------



## Chapla1n

Fedder said:


> On my Denon reciever you need to go to Setup >Video > HDMI Setup > HDMI Audio Out. Change that to TV.
> I would also go into Setup >Video >HDMI Setup> 4K Signal format and change the signal to enchanced or you wont be able to use HDR at 4k 60fps.



Thanks! Will try the first one, but as far as I can tell this will disable audio going through to my amp-connected speakers? Which isn't what I want, but what the setting further down the list (Arc > On) should provide.. but doesn't. :-{


----------



## Micke S

KalEl38 said:


> Thanks DenisG for the info. I was finally able to get a Vudu 3D movie to play using the PS4. According to what I found on an Nvidia forum, the Shield can technically play a 3D file/movie, but it won't send the signal to your tv/projector that it's 3D. So you have to manually switch on 3D on your tv/projector. I don't see any way to do this with the P1. With saying that, I have another Nvidia Shield hooked up to a 3D Samsung tv in another room and I tried to play the same 3D movie from Vudu on it. I manually turned on 3D on the tv and tried to play the movie, but a pop-up from Vudu told me that my device wasn't 3D compatible. So I'm not sure if what I found on the Nvidia forum was correct or not, but it did not work for me.


Vudu is ridiculously finicky with their formats above HDX. They have a list of approved devices, and nothing else will play UHX, for example, I assume the same goes for 3D. My Sony UBPX800 BD player doesn't allow UHX from Vudu, for example, even though the UBPX700 does.
A Chromecast Ultra ($70) is the cheapest approved device I believe, but it sucks to get another dongle just for Vudu.

See more at the forum link on http://vudu.com/uhx


----------



## Chapla1n

Fedder said:


> On my Denon reciever you need to go to Setup >Video > HDMI Setup > HDMI Audio Out. Change that to TV.
> I would also go into Setup >Video >HDMI Setup> 4K Signal format and change the signal to enchanced or you wont be able to use HDR at 4k 60fps.





Chapla1n said:


> Thanks! Will try the first one, but as far as I can tell this will disable audio going through to my amp-connected speakers? Which isn't what I want, but what the setting further down the list (Arc > On) should provide.. but doesn't. :-{



Yep, that disables all audio to the receiver. Maybe an issue with Denon's ARC implementation., as sound does go through over HDMI if all audio is sent, just not over ARC. Will ask on the Denon 3500 thread. Thanks anyway.


----------



## Micke S

Chapla1n said:


> Yep, that disables all audio to the receiver. Maybe an issue with Denon's ARC implementation., as sound does go through over HDMI if all audio is sent, just not over ARC. Will ask on the Denon 3500 thread. Thanks anyway.


You seem to want to send the audio TO the projector, to output in its sound bar, is that correct?
ARC is only for audio to go FROM the video source (in this case the P1) to the receiver, not the other way around (hence the name Audio Return Channel), so if that's what you want, I don't think it'll work.


----------



## Chapla1n

Chapla1n said:


> Yep, that disables all audio to the receiver. Maybe an issue with Denon's ARC implementation., as sound does go through over HDMI if all audio is sent, just not over ARC. Will ask on the Denon 3500 thread. Thanks anyway.



And this may actually just be be me hoping ARC isn't actually ARC, lol.


"HDMI ARC provides for transferring audio from the TV back to a home theater receiver with the same HDMI connection that's used to transfer video from a home theater receiver to the TV." 



...which would explain why I can't use it to transfer audio the other way round, from the receiver to the projector. Oh well.


----------



## Micke S

user2017 said:


> I first became aware of this possible issue from Amazon reviews and the Q&A there, then on Youtube. It's good if you don't have problems with your projector, and I understand not everyone cares about each problem to the same extent. Fortunately, there are many products and solutions for shoppers to choose from.


I'm just saying that projectors are still niche products and virtually every model in an affordable price range has issues. If you're going to refrain from purchasing based on issues like this one (which doesn't exist on mine as far as I can tell), you'll be without one. I'm thrilled with my P1 and would not want some fringe issue like this to keep anyone from enjoying it as much as I do.


----------



## Micke S

legnaz said:


> Where did you guys buy your screens at? Anyone had any luck with CarlsPlace? I need to find a screen under $300. Thanks.





diggumsmax said:


> there will be some people on here that may say painting the wall is the best way but there's some other things to consider. The wall has to be completely flat and level. Any distortion is extremely noticable when using UST.


Seconding this. I didn't realize just how important it is that the screen is perfectly even and level; unlike with regular projectors. For $300, you will not find an ALR screen of a decent size even if you build it yourself from "scratch", I believe, and you are likely going to want some flexibility in the screen in order to make sure it is completely flat. Painting on the wall seems like it would be a tall order to pull off getting good geometry.

I ended up going the cheap route with the AmazonBasics screen (price fluctuates a few bucks for that one now and then but it's significantly less than $300) while I'm saving up to get an ALR screen down the road. The good thing about it is that with some velcro and padding I managed to get it to be completely flat on my my wall (brick - so it is extremely uneven, natch), because it has a slightly flexible metal frame.


----------



## Micke S

I get a message on-screen "Updating AMP information..." sometimes (while playing movies, maybe also otherwise but I don't look at the screen much on those time ), it pops up and disappears. When I played Netflix off of my 4K FireTV connected directly to the P1 it disabled the ARC somehow so the audio into the Onkyo receiver went mute (restarting the receiver brought it back). It's quite annoying. Anyone know what this is about and how I can stop it?


----------



## diggumsmax

Micke S said:


> I get a message on-screen "Updating AMP information..." sometimes (while playing movies, maybe also otherwise but I don't look at the screen much on those time ), it pops up and disappears. When I played Netflix off of my 4K FireTV connected directly to the P1 it disabled the ARC somehow so the audio into the Onkyo receiver went mute (restarting the receiver brought it back). It's quite annoying. Anyone know what this is about and how I can stop it?


At this point, I wouldn't count on it. I believe there has only been two software updates so far. A day one out of the box firmware update and another that was "supposed" to fix some of the HDMI handshaking issues. I also still have exactly half of my screen totally wig out when messing with the settings, mostly when changing color temperature. This never happens if I'm not changing any settings.

I just checked and the last firmware/software update was on 11/06/2019 (Version C12). That isn't promising. Two updates in a month after it being out then nothing. Heck, someone from Optoma told me it was because I was using the HDMI cable that came IN the box... I had two other higher quality cables, didn't matter, same issues. I don't use ARC because my roughly 12 year old Pioneer receiving can't do ARC. I am kind of glad it doesn't. Yes, I'm limited to Dolby Digital and DTS but if I pair it with the soundbar right it sounds very good. Not near as good as three front speakers dialed in but I can tweak it everything so its close to being level. I'm currently debating a new center or a lower cabinet so I can mount the screen lower. 

I knew there was an offset ratio, but depending on the unit, but 3/12 inches for a 100" screen. I think they took down the calculator they originally had. The measurement guide I have has 13 1/2 inches being the lowest for a 100"s and 17 being the highest. That can make a huge deal. I think 18 was the lowest for 120 but people were saying it was closer to 22/23"s. 

The picture quality is amazing, especially HDR. The ALR screen technology in general is amazing. The soundbar is pretty good but not needed and drove up the price. They should of put a speaker input jack so you could at least use it as a center if you wanted. 

The "smart" apps are limited to 480p so I don't eve use them but just the software/firmware to run the thing feels unfinished and I'm not holding my breath on another firmware update. I hope I am wrong. The other thing is I find myself constantly playing around with the picture settings. Some content just looks better with a different color temperature or the brightness and contract slightly adjusted. I hardly use anything but 2.4 gamma but Video does make it brighter but the picture looks a little more washed out.


----------



## RobinsonCrusoe

I`m really looking forward to the next firmware update to get rid of the hdmi handshake problems with Apple TV4K. I have to change the hdmi setting to 1.4 and back to 2.0 to get the correct colors and contrast when watching a DolbyVision/HDR movie. Thank god Michel Vachta found this workaround. Hope this gets fixed.


I also get the half screen flickering when adjusting picture settings. It only lasts a few seconds but is annoying nevertheless. Besides that i´m pretty happy with the overall picture performance. I calibrated two SDR settings (one for the most quiet fan noise in cinema mode and one for brightest picture in reference mode) and picture quality is great.


----------



## rayhk

I found a firmware C14 on the Optoma Taiwan website. It seems that it was issued on 14 Jan 2020. Not sure if it is typo or not. Does anyone try it?


----------



## copperfield74

Hi guys, just wanted to share something I’ve created to raise the projector a few inches. I 3D printed four stands which can be screwed up and down. My screen is a few inches too high and I’m not allowed to lower it because of the holes in the wall. Until my designed lowboard arrives I’ll use these to raise the projector and to avoid using the trapeze settings.


PS: I don't know why the pics are upside down, tried to spin them but same results.


----------



## aquaverd

Can anyone confirm that the input lag is reduced to 50ms when puremotion and smartfit are disabled for gaming? Read it in an amazon review but seems to be the only place that claim is mentioned. Does disabling those features significantly degrade PQ?


----------



## Kev1000000

aquaverd said:


> Can anyone confirm that the input lag is reduced to 50ms when puremotion and smartfit are disabled for gaming? Read it in an amazon review but seems to be the only place that claim is mentioned. Does disabling those features significantly degrade PQ?


I can confirm that is NOT the case. It's essentially 120+ms regardless of the settings.


----------



## Fedder

aquaverd said:


> Can anyone confirm that the input lag is reduced to 50ms when puremotion and smartfit are disabled for gaming? Read it in an amazon review but seems to be the only place that claim is mentioned. Does disabling those features significantly degrade PQ?


The input lag is bugged out and isnt reduced properly in game mode or with those disabled. An Optoma Rep said its going to be fixed with a firmware update and someone else who spoke to a different rep said that the update is going to be out between February / March. So pretty much we dont know but hopefully soon.


----------



## aquaverd

Kev1000000 said:


> I can confirm that is NOT the case. It's essentially 120+ms regardless of the settings.





Fedder said:


> The input lag is bugged out and isnt reduced properly in game mode or with those disabled. An Optoma Rep said its going to be fixed with a firmware update and someone else who spoke to a different rep said that the update is going to be out between February / March. So pretty much we dont know but hopefully soon.


Thanks for the info guys. Must have been some shill who posted that on amazon. What do you think is the likelihood they will actually fix the problem with a firmware update? I am so close to buying this projector but am hung up on the input lag issue.


----------



## Fedder

aquaverd said:


> Thanks for the info guys. Must have been some shill who posted that on amazon. What do you think is the likelihood they will actually fix the problem with a firmware update? I am so close to buying this projector but am hung up on the input lag issue.


I really want to believe because I already bougtht the damn thing. Has a great picture at least...


----------



## Kev1000000

aquaverd said:


> Thanks for the info guys. Must have been some shill who posted that on amazon. What do you think is the likelihood they will actually fix the problem with a firmware update? I am so close to buying this projector but am hung up on the input lag issue.


With only one FW update in essentially 6 months, I am not very confident it will be fixed.


----------



## aquaverd

Kev1000000 said:


> With only one FW update in essentially 6 months, I am not very confident it will be fixed.


Just read this response from Optima in some q&a regarding input lag - looks the issue may be upscaling slowing things down and the supposed future firmware update will disable upscaling

"If the source is a PC, please set the resolution to 4K UHD as anything lower will result in the scaler upscaling the image which will result in high input lag. We will offer the ability to disable the upscale for 1080p and 1440p in the future."

Anyone getting less input lag using PC 4K UHD?


----------



## Kev1000000

aquaverd said:


> Just read this response from Optima in some q&a regarding input lag - looks the issue may be upscaling slowing things down and the supposed future firmware update will disable upscaling
> 
> "If the source is a PC, please set the resolution to 4K UHD as anything lower will result in the scaler upscaling the image which will result in high input lag. We will offer the ability to disable the upscale for 1080p and 1440p in the future."
> 
> Anyone getting less input lag using PC 4K UHD?


I am already in 4K. It's still 120+ms.


----------



## simoes

*Input Lag*

I have been following this forum for some time and have read all about the input lag issue. I initially experienced the same lag when I connected my PC to the PJ via an HDMI cable. I was also experiencing some lag when I played UHD MKV files. 
Just recently, I replaced my cable to a premium high speed HDMI Cable ([email protected], HDR, 18Gbps, 24AWG, YCbCr 4:4:4). Initially, the input lag still persisted so I decided to look into the settings of my video card. I noticed that the refresh rate on the card was set to 30hz. When I changed the setting to 60hz, BOOM, the input lag disappeared (and I'm using a 30ft cable). Now, when I move my mouse on my PC desktop, I see an immediate response on the projector desktop. I don't know about gaming, but changing my HDMI cable and video card settings fixed the issue for me!


----------



## aquaverd

simoes said:


> When I changed the setting to 60hz, BOOM, the input lag disappeared (and I'm using a 30ft cable). Now, when I move my mouse on my PC desktop, I see an immediate response on the projector desktop. I don't know about gaming, but changing my HDMI cable and video card settings fixed the issue for me!


Great! Do you mind posting a video with your mouse moving and the screen in frame so we can see the correlation of movement between the two? I'm still hesitant about buying this projector and I think that would help ease my nerves about this issue.


----------



## diggumsmax

So, having some issues with HDR with my new Nvidia Shield 2019 (*Non pro tube). I can't get 10 bit HDR from Netflix or other 4K HDR streaming services. I saw a few earlier posts about this and it seems like others are getting different results. Now, Kodi or SPMC (essentially kodi) will only do 8 bit HDR (8 bit & 4.2.2 Color Depth and BT.709 & HDR for color format). I had to change a lot of settings in SPMC to get this to work. This is using the Nvidia's default output (4K 59.9hz YUV 420 10 bit Rec 2020) and this is only for 24hz content, 60hz switches back to SDR. Also, with the default output settings the Dynamic range setting is grayed out. 

With streaming apps, the display mode shows up as HDR and the other options can't be selected but when I go over to the input source it shows up as 10 bit & 4.2.0 for Color Depth and BT.709 & SDR. When switching through Dynamic Range modes (film, detail, bright, standard) there is no change in picture quality at all. 

After messing around with the output settings I finally got 8 bit HDR to work with SPMC at 60hz. I have to set the output to either YUV 422 12-bit Rec. 709 or YUV 422 12-bit Rec 2020. I also have to set it to 60hz, 59.9hz still shows up as SDR. At first I thought this was a P1 issue but based off some earlier discussions about the shield, it appears other users got 10 bit HDR without much issues.

I posted on Nvidia forums about the issue. They said there was a hotfix, it's been applied, no changes. Now I don't know what is the issue. I've tried three different cables. All three cables can do 10 bit HDR from my Xbox One X so it is not the cable. There is no switches/receivers in the mix, the shield is plugged directly into the P1. I've tried both ports one and two which are set to 2.0. Is there anything else I am missing? 

I'm probably going to send it back as Nvidia neglects to mention that the non pro can only use 32-bit apps (64-bit apps simply won't install). I am debating on the Pro as I don't want to have these same issues. My Xbox One X was plug and play but for some reason the Nvidia Shield just won't do 10 bit HDR, it will do 8 bit HDR & 4.2.2 or 10 bit SDR but that is it. The source material is 10 bit HDR for SMPC/Kodi. My main reason for getting the Shield was my PC is to old to trancode some 4K HDR material plus I don't want trans-coding in the mix at all. 

The only setting where the dynamic range option on the shields settings isn't grayed out is if I set it to 8 bit RGB but then nothing is HDR. Anyone else have the Nvidia Shield TV 2019 and if so, are you having similar issues? I really like the interface but I don't want to have to switch to my Xbox in order to get HDR for Netflix/Amazon although it seems like I am "somewhat" getting HDR with the Shield but the menu settings are confliciting...

Same content on Xbox One X using Plex shows 10 bit & RGB for Color Depth and BT.709 & HDR for Color Format for 24Hz and 8 bit 4.2.2 BT.709 & DMR for 60hz which I believe is the max color bit depth for 4K 60hz HDR content for the P1.


----------



## RobinsonCrusoe

diggumsmax said:


> So, having some issues with HDR with my new Nvidia Shield 2019 (*Non pro tube). I can't get 10 bit HDR from Netflix or other 4K HDR streaming services. I saw a few earlier posts about this and it seems like others are getting different results. Now, Kodi or SPMC (essentially kodi) will only do 8 bit HDR (8 bit & 4.2.2 Color Depth and BT.709 & HDR for color format). I had to change a lot of settings in SPMC to get this to work. This is using the Nvidia's default output (4K 59.9hz YUV 420 10 bit Rec 2020) and this is only for 24hz content, 60hz switches back to SDR. Also, with the default output settings the Dynamic range setting is grayed out.
> 
> With streaming apps, the display mode shows up as HDR and the other options can't be selected but when I go over to the input source it shows up as 10 bit & 4.2.0 for Color Depth and BT.709 & SDR. When switching through Dynamic Range modes (film, detail, bright, standard) there is no change in picture quality at all.
> 
> After messing around with the output settings I finally got 8 bit HDR to work with SPMC at 60hz. I have to set the output to either YUV 422 12-bit Rec. 709 or YUV 422 12-bit Rec 2020. I also have to set it to 60hz, 59.9hz still shows up as SDR. At first I thought this was a P1 issue but based off some earlier discussions about the shield, it appears other users got 10 bit HDR without much issues.
> 
> I posted on Nvidia forums about the issue. They said there was a hotfix, it's been applied, no changes. Now I don't know what is the issue. I've tried three different cables. All three cables can do 10 bit HDR from my Xbox One X so it is not the cable. There is no switches/receivers in the mix, the shield is plugged directly into the P1. I've tried both ports one and two which are set to 2.0. Is there anything else I am missing?
> 
> I'm probably going to send it back as Nvidia neglects to mention that the non pro can only use 32-bit apps (64-bit apps simply won't install). I am debating on the Pro as I don't want to have these same issues. My Xbox One X was plug and play but for some reason the Nvidia Shield just won't do 10 bit HDR, it will do 8 bit HDR & 4.2.2 or 10 bit SDR but that is it. The source material is 10 bit HDR for SMPC/Kodi. My main reason for getting the Shield was my PC is to old to trancode some 4K HDR material plus I don't want trans-coding in the mix at all.
> 
> The only setting where the dynamic range option on the shields settings isn't grayed out is if I set it to 8 bit RGB but then nothing is HDR. Anyone else have the Nvidia Shield TV 2019 and if so, are you having similar issues? I really like the interface but I don't want to have to switch to my Xbox in order to get HDR for Netflix/Amazon although it seems like I am "somewhat" getting HDR with the Shield but the menu settings are confliciting...
> 
> Same content on Xbox One X using Plex shows 10 bit & RGB for Color Depth and BT.709 & HDR for Color Format for 24Hz and 8 bit 4.2.2 BT.709 & DMR for 60hz which I believe is the max color bit depth for 4K 60hz HDR content for the P1.


Have you tried the workaround that helps with the AppleTV? Start a movie and pause it. Then change hdmi settings to 1.4 and back to 2.0 and resume the movie. Perhaps this changes the chroma and bit settings on the Shield, too.


----------



## gyotar

aquaverd said:


> Can anyone confirm that the input lag is reduced to 50ms when puremotion and smartfit are disabled for gaming? Read it in an amazon review but seems to be the only place that claim is mentioned. Does disabling those features significantly degrade PQ?


Yes the input lag is reduced to acceptable levels IF you send a native 4K signal. I just finished playing Two FPSs, there was no noticeable lag with mouse and keyboard. 

If the projector has to upscale the lag will be nauseating on PC. 

Apparently the next firmware will fix this for those who don’t have 4K consoles or pc’s


----------



## diggumsmax

RobinsonCrusoe said:


> Have you tried the workaround that helps with the AppleTV? Start a movie and pause it. Then change hdmi settings to 1.4 and back to 2.0 and resume the movie. Perhaps this changes the chroma and bit settings on the Shield, too.


Thanks, I will try this. After digging through some more other forums last night I found that others were having odd issues with the Shield TV Pro depending on their display. During my research I found out that with Plex, it's the client reporting the playback capabilities of the attached device back to the server, which will transcode if it needs to. Settings can be overridden on the server side. When I found this out it caught my attention because the Nvidia Shield was supposed to be able to handle pretty much every codec/format, yet Plex wanted to trans-code MORE 4K HDR material then my Xbox One X which pretty much went against everything I had read about the Shield. 

I typically only change settings on the client side for Plex, not the server side as 1080p content never had any issues so I honestly never cared if it was transcoding because it didn't buffer/freeze up, or just not play the content at all until 4K HDR material. I don't know if it's Plex or my device/network setup but I found a setting in Plex Server under network named "LAN Networks" with the below description. 

_Comma separated list of IP addresses or IP/netmask entries for networks that will be considered to be on the local network when enforcing bandwidth restrictions. If set, all other IP addresses will be considered to be on the external network and will be subject to external network bandwidth restrictions. If left blank, only the server's subnet is considered to be on the local network._

One would think Plex could figure this out itself in a simple home network setup (one subnet, no vlans, nothing crazy, all wired devices statically IP'd). After I put in my xxx.xxx.x.x/24 for my subnet, nothing transcodes anymore when using Plex on ANY 4K content for Xbox One X and it's 10 bit. It's all direct play outside of some audio transcoding. My receiver doesn't have and ARC input. I'm stuck with fiber at the moment so I'm limited to Dolby Digital and DTS and most 4K content is Dolby True HD, Atmos, or DTS-MA so that is to be expected. 

I'm still going to play around with a few more settings at this point but I'm probably going to stick to my Xbox One X. I'm debating on putting the shield in my bedroom or sending it back. I REALLY like the Shield Tube outside the fact that it won't install 64-bit apps for some reason, it's by far the best dedicated media streamer I've ever used. I didn't try any games on it so I can't comment on that part. I was still never able to get 10 bit HDR to work, only 10 bit SDR with the Shield even after making this change. I will try the Apple TV workaround to see if that makes a difference though. I do hope Optoma has a firmware update soon to address some of these odd HDMI issues people have been having. 

I will admit that 4K HDR material APPEARS to look somewhat better using Kodi/SMPC on the Shield even though it is only 8 bit but that might just be placebo effect. Plex also doesn't do any color mapping if it transcodes 4K content at 1080p making the image look washed our. For that reason I always reeencode all my 4K HDR content to much lower quality/bandwidth 1080p/720p as I travel a lot on hotel bandwidth is terrible so the lower quality option looks better when I am away. I''m also still not sure why all 24hz 4K HDR material shows up as 10 bit & RGB on my Xbox One X according to the input menu and not 4.2.0. 

Anyway, this is the P1 forum and I'm getting off topic but maybe someone will find this info useful as I spent more hours then I care to admit trying to get 10 bit HDR to work on my P1 from the Nvidia Tube 2019 and I still have not been able to.


----------



## gyotar

aquaverd said:


> Kev1000000 said:
> 
> 
> 
> With only one FW update in essentially 6 months, I am not very confident it will be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> Just read this response from Optima in some q&a regarding input lag - looks the issue may be upscaling slowing things down and the supposed future firmware update will disable upscaling
> 
> "If the source is a PC, please set the resolution to 4K UHD as anything lower will result in the scaler upscaling the image which will result in high input lag. We will offer the ability to disable the upscale for 1080p and 1440p in the future."
> 
> Anyone getting less input lag using PC 4K UHD?
Click to expand...

I can confirm that input lag is terrible at any other resolution than 4K. I was devastated when I first booted my PC, but when I changed my resolution from 1080P to 4K it came to life, lag became unnoticeable enough for fast FPS play.


----------



## Fedder

gyotar said:


> I can confirm that input lag is terrible at any other resolution than 4K. I was devastated when I first booted my PC, but when I changed my resolution from 1080P to 4K it came to life, lag became unnoticeable enough for fast FPS play.


Kinda sucks since my ps4 and switch still get the lag.


----------



## codenameduchess

Kev1000000 said:


> I am already in 4K. It's still 120+ms.


Ugh... and the last time @OPTOMA PM DUDE spoke about an input lag fix was Nov 7th, 2019... 

Amazon currently has an "Amazon Renewed" Optoma P1 for $3,199. But with issues mentioned here, and especially with the last firmware update in November 2019, I'm extremely leary. 

Would you purchase it today, based on your experience with it so far?


----------



## Kev1000000

codenameduchess said:


> Ugh... and the last time @OPTOMA PM DUDE spoke about an input lag fix was Nov 7th, 2019...
> 
> Amazon currently has an "Amazon Renewed" Optoma P1 for $3,199. But with issues mentioned here, and especially with the last firmware update in November 2019, I'm extremely leary.
> 
> Would you purchase it today, based on your experience with it so far?


It's still a great projector, no doubt. But if you're a serious gamer, it likely won't cut it for you.


----------



## codenameduchess

Kev1000000 said:


> It's still a great projector, no doubt. But if you're a serious gamer, it likely won't cut it for you.


Not really. How much do you notice it when using another device, like the nvidia shield? Navigating the apps interfaces, etc...


----------



## Kev1000000

codenameduchess said:


> Not really. How much do you notice it when using another device, like the nvidia shield? Navigating the apps interfaces, etc...


You don't notice it much if you're using a traditional remote. If you use a mouse though, you'll notice it a ton.


----------



## aquaverd

How many inches is the light spill?


----------



## Kev1000000

aquaverd said:


> How many inches is the light spill?


In my setup, I get ~3" of lightspill.


----------



## Mick Seymour

I have had my UHZ65UST for just over a week and have some problems with different refresh rate content.


I have a UK sat box plugged into HDMI 1 on a 1.5m high speed cable and my AVP plugged into HDMI 2 on a 10m high speed cable and the problems are the same on both. They are also the same if I swap inputs. The EDID for both inputs is set to version 2.0. The problems persist if I set them to version 1.4.The Optoma is on firmware C12. I've read the whole of this thread looking for clues and ideas and after exhaustive testing have come up with the following. 



*Image Flashing/Flickering*


1080p 50Hz content causes constant flashing/flickering on both HDMI ports with Pure Motion set to 1. *Turning Pure Motion off, the flashing/flickering stops*. This is 100% repeatable while content is playing.


2160p 50Hz content (my sat box will upscale to 2160p) does not flicker even with Pure Motion set to 1.


1080p 23.976/24/60Hz content does not flicker even with Pure Motion set to 1.


*Lip Sync*


1080p 23.976/24/50Hz content has a very bad lip sync problem with Pure Motion set to 1; I'd guess at the video being at least 100ms behind the audio. *Turning Pure Motion off, lip sync returns immediately*. This is 100% repeatable while content is playing.


2160p 50Hz content does not have a lip sync problem even with Pure Motion set to 1.


*Other Problems*


I have seen the right hand half of the image flash on a blu-ray copyright screen, which recovered when the movie started to play. It has only happened once and I've been unable to repeat it. I read that this was supposed to be fixed in firmware C12.


I control my system with a Harmony 900 remote. The Optoma Cinemax P1 in on the Logitech database but is severely limited in available options. Direct switching of HDMI port and a direct projector off command without having to confirm either shutdown or audio mode are missing. If anyone has found the codes for these I'd be delighted to know what they are.


I bought this to replace a TV and an overhead projector. As a TV replacement it is great with the speakers being loud and clear. I'm hoping the next firmware will resolve the Pure Motion problems along with allowing me to turn off the projector upscaling of all 1080p material, which I don’t want or need. At this stage, I'm not ready to bite the bullet with an ALR screen and use it for watching movies.


----------



## Chapla1n

codenameduchess said:


> Amazon currently has an "Amazon Renewed" Optoma P1 for $3,199. But with issues mentioned here, and especially with the last firmware update in November 2019, I'm extremely leary.



I bought my Amazon Renewed for $2999 plus tax, so maybe worth waiting to see if that price lowers if you do decide to pull the trigger. (Use camelcamelcamel.com to track.)



I only went for this after I decided to get out of gaming, so the input lag was no longer an issue. Very happy with the purchase as the image is stellar!


----------



## aquaverd

I wonder what would happen if a scaler was added to scale up to 4k before feeding the projector. Anyone know what kind of lag a typical scaler might have?


----------



## rsk5

aquaverd said:


> I wonder what would happen if a scaler was added to scale up to 4k before feeding the projector. Anyone know what kind of lag a typical scaler might have?


At the time, the scaler with marseille chip had I believe a latency of almost zero (0.2ms). It had the drawback of not being hdmi 2, and not being able to upscale to 4k more 24 frames per second. I don't know where they are, look on marseilleinc.com


----------



## aquaverd

rsk5 said:


> At the time, the scaler with marseille chip had I believe a latency of almost zero (0.2ms). It had the drawback of not being hdmi 2, and not being able to upscale to 4k more 24 frames per second. I don't know where they are, look on marseilleinc.com


Wow and it's only $119. Other scalers I looked at were $500 and up. Thanks for the heads up. Only downside is it looks like it takes 480p and 720p just up to 1080p so would still not resolve the optoma lag issue on those. Anyone tried pairing something like this with the P1 to see if it reduces the 120ms lag?


----------



## rsk5

the 720p 24,25 and 30hz is well upscale in 4k, according to mclassic's tech specs


----------



## Mikkle

aquaverd said:


> Wow and it's only $119. Other scalers I looked at were $500 and up. Thanks for the heads up. Only downside is it looks like it takes 480p and 720p just up to 1080p so would still not resolve the optoma lag issue on those. Anyone tried pairing something like this with the P1 to see if it reduces the 120ms lag?


Adding an external scaler wouldn't fully solve the lag issue. There's still a considerable amount of lag at 4K resolution.

At this point we're all just waiting on Optoma to release an updated firmware with the lag fix.


----------



## codenameduchess

Kev1000000 said:


> I can confirm that is NOT the case. It's essentially 120+ms regardless of the settings.


I would pull the trigger on this, but after simulating 120ms lag input last night, ugh... not a chance until there is a firmware update. btw I was the one that recently commented on your reddit post, asking how you built your stand using IKEA shelves. 

The pic of your setup is torture. Come on Optoma, I want this setup.


----------



## aquaverd

codenameduchess said:


> btw I was the one that recently commented on your reddit post, asking how you built your stand using IKEA shelves.
> The pic of your setup is torture. Come on Optoma, I want this setup.


Where is this pic? I'm looking for setup ideas so would love to see it. I'm probably going to end up buying the HU85LA though if no word on input lag fix in the next few weeks.


----------



## codenameduchess

aquaverd said:


> Where is this pic? I'm looking for setup ideas so would love to see it. I'm probably going to end up buying the HU85LA though if no word on input lag fix in the next few weeks.


Here's @Kev1000000's setup: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...toma-p1-4k-laser-ust-ces-63.html#post58972326

I love LG's HU85LA. Additional pros, it uses an almost identical version of webOS, and has the magic remote.

The price however is steep, so I'm hoping it drops this spring/summer. And it's very odd it has a built-in tv tuner, but lacks support for HLG.


----------



## rsk5

simoes said:


> I have been following this forum for some time and have read all about the input lag issue. I initially experienced the same lag when I connected my PC to the PJ via an HDMI cable. I was also experiencing some lag when I played UHD MKV files.
> Just recently, I replaced my cable to a premium high speed HDMI Cable ([email protected], HDR, 18Gbps, 24AWG, YCbCr 4:4:4). Initially, the input lag still persisted so I decided to look into the settings of my video card. I noticed that the refresh rate on the card was set to 30hz. When I changed the setting to 60hz, BOOM, the input lag disappeared (and I'm using a 30ft cable). Now, when I move my mouse on my PC desktop, I see an immediate response on the projector desktop. I don't know about gaming, but changing my HDMI cable and video card settings fixed the issue for me!


Ok, excuse me, cables with marseille chip do not have 60hz output signal.
better choose something like "Lindy up & down scaler hdmi 18g" 1080 60hz input 4k 60hz output.


----------



## aquaverd

rsk5 said:


> Ok, excuse me, cables with marseille chip do not have 60hz output signal.
> better choose something like "Lindy up & down scaler hdmi 18g" 1080 60hz input 4k 60hz output.


Thanks again. Will this convert 30hz to 60hz?


----------



## rsk5

aquaverd said:


> Thanks again. Will this convert 30hz to 60hz?


According to the technical characteristics, only 60hz in entry. but I don't know the latency time.

If I were you, I'd wait more test, and wait for someone to test it in 24 to 120 Hz. And if it works, go with the more versatile marseille-chip cable.


----------



## legnaz

I am having an issue where the projector resets the warp settings everytime I turn it off. I have to readjust the screen fit settings every damn time I turn it on. Does this happen to anyone else? Is there a fix? All the other settings dont reset, just the screen. I have a fixed screen, not a pull down. Also the top right corner is blurry and when i get that in focus, the rest goes out of focus. Its pretty annoying. Thanks.


----------



## rsk5

rsk5 said:


> According to the technical characteristics, only 60hz in entry. but I don't know the latency time.
> 
> If I were you, I'd wait more test, and wait for someone to test it in 24 to 120 Hz. And if it works, go with the more versatile marseille-chip cable.


For information, answer of Lindy :

"The latency is a few milliseconds, please note that this product is not suitable for gaming use.

Sincerely"


----------



## Mick Seymour

Mick Seymour said:


> *Image Flashing/Flickering*
> 
> 1080p 50Hz content causes constant flashing/flickering on both HDMI ports with Pure Motion set to 1. *Turning Pure Motion off, the flashing/flickering stops*. This is 100% repeatable while content is playing.
> 
> 2160p 50Hz content (my sat box will upscale to 2160p) does not flicker even with Pure Motion set to 1.
> 
> 1080p 23.976/24/60Hz content does not flicker even with Pure Motion set to 1.
> 
> *Lip Sync*
> 
> 1080p 23.976/24/50Hz content has a very bad lip sync problem with Pure Motion set to 1; I'd guess at the video being at least 100ms behind the audio. *Turning Pure Motion off, lip sync returns immediately*. This is 100% repeatable while content is playing.
> 
> 2160p 50Hz content does not have a lip sync problem even with Pure Motion set to 1.


I contacted Optoma support and have been told that the next firmware fixes these problems. Unfortunately, the guy doesn't know when it will be released as it is still in test. He said it will be some weeks.


----------



## K. Kim

Hoping someone can answer a question for me. 

Want to setup the P1 for my HT and finally found a stand that can hold the P1 on top and my centre channel below. The stand height is 18" and I want to project a 120" screen. My ceiling only measures 7.5 feet.

Is the stand too high? If so, how low do I have to place the P1 to make it fit?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Mikkle

K. Kim said:


> Hoping someone can answer a question for me.
> 
> Want to setup the P1 for my HT and finally found a stand that can hold the P1 on top and my centre channel below. The stand height is 18" and I want to project a 120" screen. My ceiling only measures 7.5 feet.
> 
> Is the stand too high? If so, how low do I have to place the P1 to make it fit?
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Yeah I'm pretty sure that 18" is too high with 7.5 ft ceilings 

I'll take some measurements when I get home to confirm, but I'm pretty sure my stand is only 13" tall and the screen still feels a little too high with 8 ft ceilings.


----------



## Micke S

So, please, anyone else having an issue with the pop-up message "Updating AMP information..." appearing regularly but seemingly randomly? Am I the only one seeing it? My last day to return my P1 is tomorrow, and besides seeing rainbows I think it's an amazing product for watching movies and TV... but this is driving me crazy. When I use my 4K Fire TV (connected directly to the P1) it pauses the video when it shows this, but when using other sources (connected to the Onkyo receiver) it just shows the message for a second and disappears. It's really annoying. A reset of the P1 didn't fix it, and Google searches lead me nowhere.
Anyone seen it? Any help?


----------



## Mick Seymour

Micke S said:


> So, please, anyone else having an issue with the pop-up message "Updating AMP information..." appearing regularly but seemingly randomly? Am I the only one seeing it? My last day to return my P1 is tomorrow, and besides seeing rainbows I think it's an amazing product for watching movies and TV... but this is driving me crazy. When I use my 4K Fire TV (connected directly to the P1) it pauses the video when it shows this, but when using other sources (connected to the Onkyo receiver) it just shows the message for a second and disappears. It's really annoying. A reset of the P1 didn't fix it, and Google searches lead me nowhere.
> Anyone seen it? Any help?


 I've not seen it. I use a directly connected sat box on HDMI 1 with other video sources piped through an AV processor on HDMI 2.


Have you logged a support call with Optoma?


----------



## Mick Seymour

K. Kim said:


> Hoping someone can answer a question for me.
> 
> Want to setup the P1 for my HT and finally found a stand that can hold the P1 on top and my centre channel below. The stand height is 18" and I want to project a 120" screen. My ceiling only measures 7.5 feet.
> 
> Is the stand too high? If so, how low do I have to place the P1 to make it fit?
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.


 A 120" diagonal 16 x 9 image will be 58.8" high. The Optoma documentation says the top of the stand to the bottom of the projected image will be 17.2" so you are looking at a total height of 76" or 6'4". Optoma's 17.2" could be somewhere between 16.34" and 18.06" because their documentation also says the figures could be off by +/-5%. You would need to measure it for your projector to be certain.

With a 7'6" ceiling, the stand will have to be a maximum of 14" high and that will push the image right to the ceiling.


----------



## Kdub69

Noobie question here but my optoma p1 is connected to my HT system and the 4k fire stick, how do I know if Have 4k and hdr enabled on my optoma p1


----------



## RobinsonCrusoe

Micke S said:


> So, please, anyone else having an issue with the pop-up message "Updating AMP information..." appearing regularly but seemingly randomly? Am I the only one seeing it? My last day to return my P1 is tomorrow, and besides seeing rainbows I think it's an amazing product for watching movies and TV... but this is driving me crazy. When I use my 4K Fire TV (connected directly to the P1) it pauses the video when it shows this, but when using other sources (connected to the Onkyo receiver) it just shows the message for a second and disappears. It's really annoying. A reset of the P1 didn't fix it, and Google searches lead me nowhere.
> Anyone seen it? Any help?


I also see the Updating „AMP information...“ since i have a AppleTV and a TV Receiver running through a Denon AV connected to HDMI 1 on the Optoma. The AMP info appears sometimes when i change the input. I guess it has to do with multiple devices going into one hdmi on the pj. But it´s not bothering me since it disappears after a second.


----------



## Micke S

RobinsonCrusoe said:


> I also see the Updating „AMP information...“ since i have a AppleTV and a TV Receiver running through a Denon AV connected to HDMI 1 on the Optoma. The AMP info appears sometimes when i change the input. I guess it has to do with multiple devices going into one hdmi on the pj. But it´s not bothering me since it disappears after a second.


So for you it doesn't appear during movies/shows?


----------



## Micke S

Mick Seymour said:


> I've not seen it. I use a directly connected sat box on HDMI 1 with other video sources piped through an AV processor on HDMI 2.
> 
> 
> Have you logged a support call with Optoma?


No I have not. Honestly in these days of internet forums and support I didn't even think of it...


----------



## K. Kim

Mick Seymour said:


> A 120" diagonal 16 x 9 image will be 58.8" high. The Optoma documentation says the top of the stand to the bottom of the projected image will be 17.2" so you are looking at a total height of 76" or 6'4". Optoma's 17.2" could be somewhere between 16.34" and 18.06" because their documentation also says the figures could be off by +/-5%. You would need to measure it for your projector to be certain.
> 
> With a 7'6" ceiling, the stand will have to be a maximum of 14" high and that will push the image right to the ceiling.


Thank you for taking the time to provide the perfect answer, it is greatly appreciated!!

Projection TV is so frustrating, hope the pay off is worth it.


----------



## RobinsonCrusoe

Micke S said:


> So for you it doesn't appear during movies/shows?



No, never seen it during playback. Only at the beginning, when the pj is turned on or inputs are switched.


----------



## Micke S

K. Kim said:


> Thank you for taking the time to provide the perfect answer, it is greatly appreciated!!
> 
> 
> 
> Projection TV is so frustrating, hope the pay off is worth it.


If you love movies it's absolutely worth it. I love getting the big screen experience at home.


----------



## Mikkle

Mikkle said:


> Yeah I'm pretty sure that 18" is too high with 7.5 ft ceilings
> 
> I'll take some measurements when I get home to confirm, but I'm pretty sure my stand is only 13" tall and the screen still feels a little too high with 8 ft ceilings.


Just to confirm my measurements at home.

My ceilings are 8 ft tall. I'm projecting a 120" image onto an XY Screen PET Crystal screen. My cabinet is only 13.5" tall. The projector is sitting about 15" from the wall. The top of the screen hangs about 8" down from the ceiling. The bottom of the screen is about 2 ft 4in from the ground. It looks pretty good, but feels just a little high still.

It would be too tight to project a 120" picture from pretty much any stand/cabinet if your ceiling height is 7.5 ft. It would probably be fine if you put the projector directly on the ground.

On a related note, I can highly recommend this TV stand. It's fairly low to the ground, has an adjustable middle shelf that can accommodate most center channels as well as a low profile receiver, cable management, etc. It looks good and it's also fairly cheap. Perfect for UST setups. https://www.wayfair.com/furniture/pdp/brayden-studio-leta-tv-stand-for-tvs-up-to-78-w000317572.html

Hope this helps!


----------



## simoes

Mikkle said:


> It would be too tight to project a 120" picture from pretty much any stand/cabinet if your ceiling height is 7.5 ft. It would probably be fine if you put the projector directly on the ground.


Simply not true. I'm projecting onto a 7.5' wall and have a couple inches on the top and it feels just fine. I have the projector on a 11.25" stand.


----------



## Mikkle

simoes said:


> Simply not true. I'm projecting onto a 7.5' wall and have a couple inches on the top and it feels just fine. I have the projector on a 11.25" stand.


Glad it's working for you. To each their own, but projecting a couple of inches from the ceiling would be a non-starter for me.


----------



## ernest787

I'm getting to purchase a UST in the next week or so. I've been debating back and forth between the Optoma and the VAVA. 

Either way, it seems the biggest challenge is figuring out the placement of screen, center channel, and screen. I'm pretty sure I'm going with the Vividstorm 110" screen. I'm thinking to get a 110" screen the projector isn't going to be able to sit on stand if the screen is also on the stand.

Anyone have any experience with using the Vividstorm with the Optoma or VAVA?


----------



## tambur123

Almost finished with my setup. Now begins the hunt for an oppo bd player and a new avr. Screen is 120” clr fron Elite and cabinet is custom made with adjustable shelves height.


----------



## Kev1000000

That is an awesome cabinet design, my friend! Well done.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

tambur123 said:


> Almost finished with my setup. Now begins the hunt for an oppo bd player and a new avr. Screen is 120” clr fron Elite and cabinet is custom made with adjustable shelves height.


Nice job! I bet the higher (versus other UST's) vertical offset really helped with your build. What is your vertical offset for your unit? I know with mine at 14.5 inches I wish it was higher so I could fit a bigger center speaker.


----------



## tambur123

Casey_Bryson said:


> Nice job! I bet the higher (versus other UST's) vertical offset really helped with your build. What is your vertical offset for your unit? I know with mine at 14.5 inches I wish it was higher so I could fit a bigger center speaker.


I’ve just measured it, it’s about 34cm (13inches) from the top of the projector to the bottom of the screen. The projected image is 118” in diagonal, because of the faint light border which is also projected on the screen. I wanted to avoid light spill on the white wall behind the screen, which is distracting at night.


----------



## kazkioken

Quick question about Smart Fit when installing the screen...I'm assuming you overshoot so that the active pixels get reduced and the panel only shoots what is inside the screen real estate. So in effect you are losing some edge pixels in the process is that correct? Or is it doing some magical lens thing (which I don't think it is). So probably better to get the whole chip throwing all its pixels and making that work before resorting to warp or smart fit -


----------



## Mick Seymour

kazkioken said:


> Quick question about Smart Fit when installing the screen...I'm assuming you overshoot so that the active pixels get reduced and the panel only shoots what is inside the screen real estate. So in effect you are losing some edge pixels in the process is that correct?


Yes.




> Or is it doing some magical lens thing (which I don't think it is).


It isn't that clever.




> So probably better to get the whole chip throwing all its pixels and making that work before resorting to warp or smart fit -


That is my plan. It is probably more difficult if you put the screen up first and then try to fit the image. When my screen arrives I'm going to mark the wall where the image I want is and put the screen there.


----------



## diggumsmax

Mick Seymour said:


> *Other Problems*
> 
> 
> I have seen the right hand half of the image flash on a blu-ray copyright screen, which recovered when the movie started to play. It has only happened once and I've been unable to repeat it. I read that this was supposed to be fixed in firmware C12.
> 
> 
> I control my system with a Harmony 900 remote. The Optoma Cinemax P1 in on the Logitech database but is severely limited in available options. Direct switching of HDMI port and a direct projector off command without having to confirm either shutdown or audio mode are missing. If anyone has found the codes for these I'd be delighted to know what they are.


I have this half screen issue still, almost always when changing picture settings like color temperature. I was an early adopter and I had to teach my Harmony all the commands and as far as I know there is no direct power off command or direct HDMI input commands which is highly disappointing. Only the menu to bring up the HDMI inputs. Not having a dedicated power off button/command is a headache. I was able to get around it using home assistant but that involved writing a basic script.

There are still HDMI handshake issues. I could never get 10bit HDR to work from my Nvidia Shield TV so I sent it back. The C12 firmware update came out late November for the P1, nothing since then. I would have expected another update by now....


----------



## rayhk

I updated the firmware to C14 recently, below are some of my observations:


The colour format (space) is shown correctly (BT2020/HDR) after HDR mode kicks in. However, “BT2020” is shown even though SDR mode is used. BT2020/SDR is shown instead of Rec709/SDR under SDR

Use of Nvidia Shield TV Pro
a.	When playing Netflix 4k HDR movies: 
​i.	Although HDR is on and colour format shows BT2020/HDR, the colour of the video/movie is dull and dark. It seems to me that the actual colour space (format) is Rec709 instead of BT2020.
b.	When playing YouTube 4k HDR videos,
​i.	HDR does not kick in and the colour format shows “BT2020/SDR”

Same as firmware C12 except colour format is now shown either BT2020/SDR or BT2020/HDR

c. Delay in change of display mode after playing HDR videos. The display mode does not change back to SDR immediately even though the HDR content is replaced by the SDR content. HDR mode remains on for a prolonged period or required manually switch off sometime. Before the firmware update, the display mode change from HDR to SDR (Cinema mode) immediately after the HDR content is finished. 


Use of Sony X700 4k Blu-ray Player
a.	When playing 4k HDR Blu-ray Disc:
​i.	HDR kicks in and colour format shows BT2020/HDR no matter what output colour space (of my Sony X700) is set. The colour is rich and shiny. The same was found before the firmware update.
b.	When playing 4k HDR video on built in Netflix 
​i.	HDR kicks in and colour format shows BT2020/HDR no matter what output colour space (of my Sony X700) is set. However, the colour is dull and dark if the output colour space (of my Sony X700) is set to “Auto” or “4.2.2”. It seems to me that the actual colour space (format) is still Rec709 instead of BT2020.
​ii.	When the colour space (of my Sony X700) is set to “4.4.4”, the colour is rich and shiny.
​iii.	Same issue that I have been facing on C12 except the colour format is now shown “BT2020/HDR” 
c.	When playing 4k HDR video on built in YouTube
​i.	HDR kicks in and colour format shows BT2020/HDR when the colour space (of my Sony X700) is set to “4.4.4”. The colour is rich and shiny.
​ii.	HDR does not kick in and the colour format shows “BT2020/SDR” when the colour space (of my Sony X700) is set to “Auto” or “4.2.2”. the colour is dull and dark (better than movies on Netflix)
​iii.	Same issue that I have been facing on C12 except the colour format is now either shown “BT2020/HDR” or “BT2020/SDR”


Other issue
When home screen is displayed, the right hand side of the screen flickered randomly. (No such issue on firmware C12)


"Game Mode" is added to "Display Setting" on C14.


----------



## Fedder

rayhk said:


> I updated the firmware to C14 recently, below are some of my observations:
> 
> 
> The colour format (space) is shown correctly (BT2020/HDR) after HDR mode kicks in. However, “BT2020” is shown even though SDR mode is used. BT2020/SDR is shown instead of Rec709/SDR under SDR
> 
> Use of Nvidia Shield TV Pro
> a.	When playing Netflix 4k HDR movies:
> ​i.	Although HDR is on and colour format shows BT2020/HDR, the colour of the video/movie is dull and dark. It seems to me that the actual colour space (format) is Rec709 instead of BT2020.
> b.	When playing YouTube 4k HDR videos,
> ​i.	HDR does not kick in and the colour format shows “BT2020/SDR”
> 
> Same as firmware C12 except colour format is now shown either BT2020/SDR or BT2020/HDR
> 
> c. Delay in change of display mode after playing HDR videos. The display mode does not change back to SDR immediately even though the HDR content is replaced by the SDR content. HDR mode remains on for a prolonged period or required manually switch off sometime. Before the firmware update, the display mode change from HDR to SDR (Cinema mode) immediately after the HDR content is finished.
> 
> 
> Use of Sony X700 4k Blu-ray Player
> a.	When playing 4k HDR Blu-ray Disc:
> ​i.	HDR kicks in and colour format shows BT2020/HDR no matter what output colour space (of my Sony X700) is set. The colour is rich and shiny. The same was found before the firmware update.
> b.	When playing 4k HDR video on built in Netflix
> ​i.	HDR kicks in and colour format shows BT2020/HDR no matter what output colour space (of my Sony X700) is set. However, the colour is dull and dark if the output colour space (of my Sony X700) is set to “Auto” or “4.2.2”. It seems to me that the actual colour space (format) is still Rec709 instead of BT2020.
> ​ii.	When the colour space (of my Sony X700) is set to “4.4.4”, the colour is rich and shiny.
> ​iii.	Same issue that I have been facing on C12 except the colour format is now shown “BT2020/HDR”
> c.	When playing 4k HDR video on built in YouTube
> ​i.	HDR kicks in and colour format shows BT2020/HDR when the colour space (of my Sony X700) is set to “4.4.4”. The colour is rich and shiny.
> ​ii.	HDR does not kick in and the colour format shows “BT2020/SDR” when the colour space (of my Sony X700) is set to “Auto” or “4.2.2”. the colour is dull and dark (better than movies on Netflix)
> ​iii.	Same issue that I have been facing on C12 except the colour format is now either shown “BT2020/HDR” or “BT2020/SDR”
> 
> 
> Other issue
> When home screen is displayed, the right hand side of the screen flickered randomly. (No such issue on firmware C12)
> 
> 
> "Game Mode" is added to "Display Setting" on C14.


So uh does the game mode actually game mode now and if so where do I get this C14


----------



## Kev1000000

Will download C14 tonight and test input lag.


----------



## iiikz

My projector doesn’t offer an option for C14 firmware - it says I’m up-to-date with C12.

Is there another route to download/installation, or is it perhaps a limited roll-out?


----------



## bjanssen

rayhk said:


> I updated the firmware to C14 recently, below are some of my observations:
> 
> b.	When playing YouTube 4k HDR videos,	HDR does not kick in and the colour format shows “BT2020/SDR”


Shield TV Pro does not support Youtube HDR (almost nothing does other than Smart TV apps) so this is not the projector's fault.


----------



## RobinsonCrusoe

I´m also up to date with C12, which already has a Game Mode in the picture settings. No lag problems at all using a Xbox One X.


----------



## rayhk

I got the C14 firmware file from the technical support team of Optoma Hong Kong


----------



## rayhk

bjanssen said:


> Shield TV Pro does not support Youtube HDR (almost nothing does other than Smart TV apps) so this is not the projector's fault.


Thanks for your information about the built in YouTube app. How about the built in Netflix? I could not get "real" BT2020 color space working (for the 4k HDR Netflix movies) on P1 no matter what video settings I used on Nvidia Shield TV Pro.


----------



## bjanssen

rayhk said:


> Thanks for your information about the built in YouTube app. How about the built in Netflix? I could not get "real" BT2020 color space working (for the 4k HDR Netflix movies) on P1 no matter what video settings I used on Nvidia Shield TV Pro.


Netflix and Amazon Prime both have full 4k HDR on Nvidia Shield. It's just YouTube that doesn't (it uses a different encoding algo that shield doesn't natively support).


----------



## rayhk

bjanssen said:


> Netflix and Amazon Prime both have full 4k HDR on Nvidia Shield. It's just YouTube that doesn't (it uses a different encoding algo that shield doesn't natively support).


Thanks. Do you know how I can get the true BT2020 working on P1 for the Nvidia Shield TV Pro built in Netflix 4k HDR movies? Thanks.


----------



## rayhk

Fedder said:


> So uh does the game mode actually game mode now and if so where do I get this C14


When I try to turn on the Game Mode, the following message displayed:

"To improve input lag, Gaming Mode will disable PureMotin and Geometric Correction (SmartFIT). Note: You can activate both features again by turning off Gaming Mode" 

I have not tested the Game Mode yet.


----------



## bjanssen

rayhk said:


> Thanks. Do you know how I can get the true BT2020 working on P1 for the Nvidia Shield TV Pro built in Netflix 4k HDR movies? Thanks.


I don't sorry, I don't have an Optoma P1 at this stage.


----------



## iiikz

RobinsonCrusoe said:


> I´m also up to date with C12, which already has a Game Mode in the picture settings. No lag problems at all using a Xbox One X.


Game mode does not appear to work unless your source is 4K. Discussions earlier seem to indicate that a large portion of lag was related to scaling for sources not in 4K (for instance, normal PS4). I confirmed this on my system - PS4 in game mode has massive lag, but PS4 Pro @4K has much lower lag. COD Modern Warfare was definitely playable once I reduced control sensitivity a bit.


----------



## iiikz

iiikz said:


> Game mode does not appear to work unless your source is 4K. Discussions earlier seem to indicate that a large portion of lag was related to scaling for sources not in 4K (for instance, normal PS4). I confirmed this on my system - PS4 in game mode has massive lag, but PS4 Pro @4K has much lower lag. COD Modern Warfare was definitely playable once I reduced control sensitivity a bit.


*Note that I was referring to C12 firmware


----------



## diggumsmax

rayhk said:


> I updated the firmware to C14 recently, below are some of my observations:
> 
> 
> The colour format (space) is shown correctly (BT2020/HDR) after HDR mode kicks in. However, “BT2020” is shown even though SDR mode is used. BT2020/SDR is shown instead of Rec709/SDR under SDR
> 
> Use of Nvidia Shield TV Pro
> a.	When playing Netflix 4k HDR movies:
> ​i.	Although HDR is on and colour format shows BT2020/HDR, the colour of the video/movie is dull and dark. It seems to me that the actual colour space (format) is Rec709 instead of BT2020.
> b.	When playing YouTube 4k HDR videos,
> ​i.	HDR does not kick in and the colour format shows “BT2020/SDR”
> 
> Same as firmware C12 except colour format is now shown either BT2020/SDR or BT2020/HDR
> 
> 
> "Game Mode" is added to "Display Setting" on C14.


I was on C12 but this was my experience. As others have stated Youtube only does HDR for VP9 Profile 2 which is why there are very few devices that that can get YouTube HDR. There aren't many devices that can decode VP9 Profile 2. Dumb move by Google IMO unless they have the rights for VP9 Profile 2 so they are forcing it for money.. 

I could only get 10 Bit HDR from Kodi over my local LAN and this required a lot of manual changes in Kodi settings. Nvidia put out a hotfix but that did not resolve the issue. This is the feedback from the Nvidia forums. It's an issue with the P1. This was the 2019 TV Tube model. Not the Pro on my P1. 

Netflix would show up as HDR and switch to HDR picture mode but if you go into the HDR picture settings and toggle through them (bright, detail, film, normal), there is no difference in picture output when toggling through the settings. With actual HDR content there are noticeable differences between the four. Input menu shows 8 bit HDR on the P1 for all streaming services. Plex was also limited to 8 bit HDR. I sent it back even though it's obviously an issue with the P1. I think there is an issue with Apple TV as well where you have to change the HDMI type from 2 to 1 and back to 2 to get HDR. If you search this thread for "Nvidia" you will find various issues that don't happen on other displays.


----------



## Fedder

Kev1000000 said:


> Will download C14 tonight and test input lag.


Thank you my dude


----------



## Kev1000000

Welp, it wasn't available for me. C12 is still the latest public FW image.


----------



## Eagle13

Fedder said:


> So uh does the game mode actually game mode now and if so where do I get this C14


I'm not sure how legit this is (it kinda looks it) but this sure seems like the C14 firmware. My guess is it's still in beta.
https://www.optoma.com/ap/wp-conten...-FW-C14-update-SOPinclud-FW-download-link.pdf


----------



## rayhk

diggumsmax said:


> I was on C12 but this was my experience. As others have stated Youtube only does HDR for VP9 Profile 2 which is why there are very few devices that that can get YouTube HDR. There aren't many devices that can decode VP9 Profile 2. Dumb move by Google IMO unless they have the rights for VP9 Profile 2 so they are forcing it for money..
> 
> I could only get 10 Bit HDR from Kodi over my local LAN and this required a lot of manual changes in Kodi settings. Nvidia put out a hotfix but that did not resolve the issue. This is the feedback from the Nvidia forums. It's an issue with the P1. This was the 2019 TV Tube model. Not the Pro on my P1.
> 
> Netflix would show up as HDR and switch to HDR picture mode but if you go into the HDR picture settings and toggle through them (bright, detail, film, normal), there is no difference in picture output when toggling through the settings. With actual HDR content there are noticeable differences between the four. Input menu shows 8 bit HDR on the P1 for all streaming services. Plex was also limited to 8 bit HDR. I sent it back even though it's obviously an issue with the P1. I think there is an issue with Apple TV as well where you have to change the HDMI type from 2 to 1 and back to 2 to get HDR. If you search this thread for "Nvidia" you will find various issues that don't happen on other displays.


Thanks for sharing your experience. I can never get actual HDR with BT2020 work with Nvidia Shield TV Pro on P1 either. By the way, the technical support team from Optoma HK told me yesterday that there may be a new firmware to resolve the issues I reported to them. Let's see.


----------



## rayhk

Eagle13 said:


> I'm not sure how legit this is (it kinda looks it) but this sure seems like the C14 firmware. My guess is it's still in beta.
> https://www.optoma.com/ap/wp-conten...-FW-C14-update-SOPinclud-FW-download-link.pdf


I also guess C14 is in beta. I personally like C12.


----------



## diggumsmax

rayhk said:


> I also guess C14 is in beta. I personally like C12.


Well, I'm on C14 now but not by choice. Android OS quit working and my P1 kept crashing, it would reboot and you only have two option, try to boot, or factory reset. After about four times of trying to boot and it failing, I did a factory reset. On the first page of setup it locked up on step 5 from the C14 link. I could not choose or do anything. Neither option would highlight and it would reboot after roughly 30 seconds. I ended up loading C14 from that link because I couldn't find a legit Optoma firmware download for C12. It was either do an RMA or load that software/firmware. After manually updated via USB, everything works now outside of losing my picture settings. The fact that it was on Optoma's page with the link and instructions did make me feel a bit better as it wasn't just some random site to download from. 

It also did a firmware update after the C14 software update which took about thirty minutes so everything in that link is accurate and works. I wish I still had my Nvidea Shield to see if the issue with HDR is resolved or not although rayhk already stated it did not.... Also, after the C14 install, some android app named iMirror wanted full control of my system, I denied it and removed it but I'm not a fan of running beta software, even though it's directly from Optoma. My P1 had been crashing more and more over the last few weeks which makes me think I might have some corrupt storage somewhere so an RMA might be inevitable. 

I can try to test to see if lag is any better on C14 but I'm unsure of what tests to run to get accurate times. There is still no dedicated gaming mode for HDR. To get minimal lag time you are supposed to be in game mode with PureMotion off so it would seem you have to play a non HDR game at 4K (or turn HDR off) to get the lowest lag times. Up scaling apparently adds a lot of lag. I am a casual gamer so this doesn't bother me although Optoma said it was around 60ms when I don't think I've read one review were it wasn't over 100ms, usually around 150ms. I'm also worried I won't get the "Official" C14 update when Optoma finally releases it. 

The video quality on this thing is amazing, especially HDR. I just wish they would of spent less on the soundbar and more on a decent smart app OS. It only took roughly six months for Android too become too corrupt to boot, I haven't installed any apps on the P1 due to the app limitations. I don't know how you could have worse apps then the P1 does. My best guess is licensing but it's ridiculous that apps are limited to 480p. 

If this thing ran the "official" Android TV OS similar to the Shield with HDR actually working, then that would be way better then the soundbar (for me personally). The official Android TV OS is amazing. No limitations outside hardly any device supporting YouTube HDR but had to send it back due to HDR not working correctly which is the P1's fault, not the Shield's. There just weren't many options as the LG was to out of my price range and I was hesitant to purchase from China for the Xiaomi. The Vava does was another like a good option but it's not as bright and I don't need 150"s. The Epson wasn't out and it has to sit farther away from the wall. I've thought about trying to side load apps to see if I can get past the 480p limitation but I doubt that works. I didn't want to send the Shield TV back but no 10 but HDR outside Kodi with local media was a deal breaker, even if it's an issue with the Optoma P1.


----------



## diggumsmax

rayhk said:


> Thanks for sharing your experience. I can never get actual HDR with BT2020 work with Nvidia Shield TV Pro on P1 either. By the way, the technical support team from Optoma HK told me yesterday that there may be a new firmware to resolve the issues I reported to them. Let's see.


I really, really wanted the Shield TV 2019 (Tube) to work. It's by far the best streaming device I have ever used outside a mini PC which is twice as much and either requires and IR input or a dedicated keyboard/mouse. I may get the Pro in the future if they get this resolved. I wish I had it still to test out C14 to see if the issue with HDR is resolved. Didn't try gaming on it but it's a super quick and snappy media player. The SD card slot is in a terrible position on the Tube as you have to unplug the HDMI cable to remove/insert the SD card. I didn't think I would need any USB ports but I think they are work the extra money now.


----------



## Mick Seymour

diggumsmax said:


> I just wish they would of spent less on the soundbar and more on a decent smart app OS.


I bought this because of the sound bar as I wanted a TV replacement without the need to power up the AV system. Sat box to Optoma, a perfect replacement for my aged 46" Samsung.


I'm waiting on the official C14 release to fix my problems, which I was told by support on 3rd March is 'some weeks before release'.


----------



## Smokey100

SHIFTING TINT

I tried to search this thread but I didn't find any information on this. The tint on a lot of programing keeps shifting in the middle of a scene. Sometimes it shifts a few times in a scene. It doesn't happen in all scenes but if I play a scene again the tint shifts again. It happens on some videos, but not all videos, streamed from both Amazon and Netflix, through Apple TV and a Fire Stick 4K. Has anyone else experienced this? I was getting a lot of flashes while watching _The Suspicions Of Mr. Whicher_ from Amazon Prime on a Fire Stick 4K but then I watched _The Dressmaker_ and there were no flashes and no tint shifts. 

I have another question: I've had HDR set to automatic. I seemed that some videos were washed out as if I was watching in a room with ambient light even though I was in a completely darkened room. I turned off automatic HDR and suddenly everything looked much better. That seems wrong, if the projector is supposed to be able to detect if content is in HDR or not, it seems that leaving it on would be the right choice. 

Thanks in advanced for your thoughts.

—Smokey


----------



## Kev1000000

Smokey100 said:


> SHIFTING TINT
> 
> I tried to search this thread but I didn't find any information on this. The tint on a lot of programing keeps shifting in the middle of a scene. Sometimes it shifts a few times in a scene. It doesn't happen in all scenes but if I play a scene again the tint shifts again. It happens on some videos, but not all videos, streamed from both Amazon and Netflix, through Apple TV and a Fire Stick 4K. Has anyone else experienced this? I was getting a lot of flashes while watching _The Suspicions Of Mr. Whicher_ from Amazon Prime on a Fire Stick 4K but then I watched _The Dressmaker_ and there were no flashes and no tint shifts.
> 
> I have another question: I've had HDR set to automatic. I seemed that some videos were washed out as if I was watching in a room with ambient light even though I was in a completely darkened room. I turned off automatic HDR and suddenly everything looked much better. That seems wrong, if the projector is supposed to be able to detect if content is in HDR or not, it seems that leaving it on would be the right choice.
> 
> Thanks in advanced for your thoughts.
> 
> —Smokey


Do you have Dynamic Black enabled? I've noticed color shifts with this enabled. Keeping power to 100% fixes it.


----------



## Smokey100

Thanks for the response. I'll see if that makes a difference. 

I hope someone from Optoma is following this thread. I sent them a message along with a video I took with my iPhone to show them the problem. Their only response has been asking for a higher resolution video. The video I sent was 1080P. Sheesh!

Smokey


----------



## Kev1000000

Smokey100 said:


> What does it fix, the tint shifting, the washed out imagine when set to Auto HDR, or the flashing?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Smokey


Tint shifting.


----------



## diggumsmax

Kev1000000 said:


> Do you have Dynamic Black enabled? I've noticed color shifts with this enabled. Keeping power to 100% fixes it.


This. I just had to do a factory reset and the default HDR output is dynamic black unless you have already changed it. I have noticed some weird color issues myself when it's in that mode. Usually switching it to 100% and back fixes it but to tell you the truth I usually leave it on 100%. It helps some with dark scenes but it's not as accurate as it could be in my opinion. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

Mick Seymour said:


> I bought this because of the sound bar as I wanted a TV replacement without the need to power up the AV system. Sat box to Optoma, a perfect replacement for my aged 46" Samsung.
> 
> 
> I'm waiting on the official C14 release to fix my problems, which I was told by support on 3rd March is 'some weeks before release'.


I understand that this was the perfect UST for anyone that cared about sound in the least. It's just the price range was set to a level that almost any early adopter already had a sound solution. You were lucky enough to need it as it does put out great sound and I imagine it sounds better paired with the subwoofer. 

Many like myself would have preferred a better built in smarp app OS. I honestly don't know why manufacturers keep butchering Android to their own liking. Now, there is no perfect solution for everyone but anyone who couldn't afford the LG and didn't want to go with a Xiaomi or Vava, this is the only mid range solution. at least there was before the tariffs and the price increase due to the additional tariffs. I believe the absent is out now but I have not read anything about it. I just knew it had to be further away from the wall than DLP based UST projectors

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## ernest787

I just purchased this along with a Vividstorm floor rising 110" screen. I really debated hard between this the Vava and LG. At different points was certain I was purchasing each one but ultimately settled on the Optoma as the midrange option. Wish the LG was a little cheaper but hopefully made the right decision and the compromise pays off.


----------



## ryond

Anyone have any issues with the remote controller locking up? 
My toddler Son had it for about a minute and now the remote has a solid red light with the backlights emitted. 

Is there a way to correct this other than letting the battery die out and hopefully it resets itself?

I also tried the back and home button, but that seemed to not correct the issue nor did waiting 10 minutes for it to go into sleep mode.


----------



## ryond

Never mind i figured it out. I found the hard reset button by the micro usb input. I thought it was a microphone.


----------



## Pmarold21

ernest787 said:


> I just purchased this along with a Vividstorm floor rising 110" screen. I really debated hard between this the Vava and LG. At different points was certain I was purchasing each one but ultimately settled on the Optoma as the midrange option. Wish the LG was a little cheaper but hopefully made the right decision and the compromise pays off.


Please let us know what you think. I’m in exactly the same dilemma and leaning towards the Optoma. Thanks.


----------



## Mick Seymour

AFAIK, the Vava has no frame interpolation so will have judder problems with 24 and 50Hz material, the same problem the Xiaomi models have.


I like the Optoma. It is a good fit if you have the space and furniture at the right height for it and somewhere to locate an AV centre channel. We were fortunate in that we've very high ceilings and have been using a long throw PJ for 11 years firing at the top half of the wall. That won't suit everyone.


The picture is fantastic and the audio is more than good enough for watching TV. We just wish the software had been finished and properly tested before release. Last night we had a split down the centre of the picture with the right half a few pixels lower than the left. Turning the Optoma off and on again resolved it. It feels like the left and right halves of the image are being processed separately.


----------



## ernest787

Pmarold21 said:


> Please let us know what you think. I’m in exactly the same dilemma and leaning towards the Optoma. Thanks.



I'll definitely give an update. The Optoma should be here on Saturday but it seems the screen won't be here for a month unfortunately. 

My biggest issue is trying to figure out how to set this up with a center channel and AVR. I bought an Ikea Kallax to use as a media cabinet since it would be fairly low to the ground.


----------



## diggumsmax

ernest787 said:


> I just purchased this along with a Vividstorm floor rising 110" screen. I really debated hard between this the Vava and LG. At different points was certain I was purchasing each one but ultimately settled on the Optoma as the midrange option. Wish the LG was a little cheaper but hopefully made the right decision and the compromise pays off.


I was dead set on the LG until the price was announcement. Optoma had already released the price of the P1. It was raised but that isn't Optoma's fault as LG is a much bigger company that makes more products so they can take a bigger loss then Optoma.

I think the dual laser https://www.lg.com/us/projectors/cinebeam-innovative-technology/ it uses really raised the price and you're paying for R&D. At the same time, I hope that other manufacturers come up with similar solutions. This completely removed the color wheel and people who are sensitive to rainbow effect apparently hardly notice it on the LG. I could be mistaken. 

The Optima has its advantages, most reviewers tend to agree that the colors are better on the P1 while black levels are better on the LG. That and The sound is obviously way better. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## freejak13

I've switched my pc to output at 3840x2160 60hz, disabled puremotion, switched to game mode and disabled HDR but still not seeing a noticeable difference in latency. Disabling warp control did not help either.

Has anyone taken any realistic metrics and confirmed whether this really does make a difference? I used an online reflex tester to test. On a pc connected to a monitor I'm getting around 200ms average and 350ms with the p1. You can try here: https://www.humanbenchmark.com/tests/reactiontime

If I'm missing something please let me know, otherwise, perhaps someone can confirm that this really makes no difference. Thanks!

Edit: Additionally, I'm not sure if I have a 4k certified HDMI cable but the computer shows that it is outputting 4k resolution at 60hz. Was under the impression that they are all more or less the same.


----------



## iiikz

freejak13 said:


> I've switched my pc to output at 3840x2160 60hz, disabled puremotion, switched to game mode and disabled HDR but still not seeing a noticeable difference in latency. Disabling warp control did not help either.
> 
> Has anyone taken any realistic metrics and confirmed whether this really does make a difference? I used an online reflex tester to test. On a pc connected to a monitor I'm getting around 200ms average and 350ms with the p1. You can try here: https://www.humanbenchmark.com/tests/reactiontime
> 
> If I'm missing something please let me know, otherwise, perhaps someone can confirm that this really makes no difference. Thanks!
> 
> Edit: Additionally, I'm not sure if I have a 4k certified HDMI cable but the computer shows that it is outputting 4k resolution at 60hz. Was under the impression that they are all more or less the same.


I don’t have any objectively measured metrics, but in my subjective experience it is not close. I don’t use any geometric corrections or pure motion.

I tried the same game (Modern Warfare) on two game systems: standard PS4 (1080p) and PS4 Pro (4k). Modern Warfare is the most responsive first person shooter I’ve ever played on a console. Standard PS4 was completely unplayable with massive lag. It was dizzying trying to time movement with the lag. In stark contrast, PS4 Pro exhibits more lag than my 4k TV, but *is* playable and was easily noticeable as having less lag than the standard setup. 

One important note: I had to change the settings on the projector to get the PS4 to recognize that it was 4k HDR capable, along with using a high speed cable.


----------



## ArcVault

Hi people!

Long time lurker but first post here, I was hoping you fine people could help me out I feel Optoma is bamboozling me.

I got the Optoma P1
My problem is I have significant white borders all around the 100 inch screen.

As I am a new poster I apparently cannot post picture links - sorry!

I contacted Optoma and their first response was it was a defect lamp and that other early adopters have had similar problems and I needed a replacement np
But then they suddenly claimed it was working as intended. Now they claim it is not their fault I have the white frame around the TV frame but that it is an inherent problem with the DSP

Anyone who owns this unit have the same problems? or know if there is a workaround? or if the DSP explanation is legit? or if this is normal on these kinds of projectors?

It seems off to me and is hugely distracting furthermore every single review I saw on YouTube there is no such white frame around their TV frame whatsoever and not a single interviewer I have seen has so far even hinted at the white light frame so what gives?

Any advice would be extremely appreciated!

Cheers
/ArcVault


----------



## DunMunro

Optoma P1 review:


----------



## DunMunro

ArcVault said:


> Hi people!
> 
> Long time lurker but first post here, I was hoping you fine people could help me out I feel Optoma is bamboozling me.
> 
> I got the Optoma P1
> My problem is I have significant white borders all around the 100 inch screen.
> 
> As I am a new poster I apparently cannot post picture links - sorry!
> 
> I contacted Optoma and their first response was it was a defect lamp and that other early adopters have had similar problems and I needed a replacement np
> But then they suddenly claimed it was working as intended. Now they claim it is not their fault I have the white frame around the TV frame but that it is an inherent problem with the DSP
> 
> Anyone who owns this unit have the same problems? or know if there is a workaround? or if the DSP explanation is legit? or if this is normal on these kinds of projectors?
> 
> It seems off to me and is hugely distracting furthermore every single review I saw on YouTube there is no such white frame around their TV frame whatsoever and not a single interviewer I have seen has so far even hinted at the white light frame so what gives?
> 
> Any advice would be extremely appreciated!
> 
> Cheers
> /ArcVault


There is a narrow light frame around the projected image. This mentioned in most reviews of the projector, for example:

https://www.passionhomecinema.fr/blog/index.php/02/11/2019/test-optoma-uhz65ust-lavis-de-gregory/


_Light pollution / light frame chip 0.47:

This frame is a little more visible than on Xiaomi but we remain in a lower level than that of the first generation. I realized this by measuring the input lag: you can see its importance on the photo, deliberately overexposed to highlight it._


----------



## ArcVault

Thank you for the quick response.
I do not understand french but google translate on the link cleared that up along with your english here so thank you!
However looking at that picture or reading that short comment I am not sure that entirely is what I am experiencing, at least on that picture it looks like the light is inside the tv frame? mine is a massive bar around the TV outside of the frame itself?

Is this what he/she means in that link?


----------



## DunMunro

ArcVault said:


> Thank you for the quick response.
> I do not understand french but google translate on the link cleared that up along with your english here so thank you!
> However looking at that picture or reading that short comment I am not sure that entirely is what I am experiencing, at least on that picture it looks like the light is inside the tv frame? mine is a massive bar around the TV outside of the frame itself?
> 
> Is this what he/she means in that link?


The appearance of the light frame will depend on your screen and screen size and the surrounding wall. My UHD50, for example, projects onto a gray painted screen and often the light frame is not noticeable but on a white wall or screen it might be problematic. You might try adjust the projector placement so that the light frame hits the black borders of your screen, or you can add a black mask around the screen to absorb the light:

https://smile.amazon.com/60-Enhancing-Projector-ConClarity-Brightens/dp/B01NCTQIR1/


BTW, I mentioned the light frame or light border here as well:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...toma-p1-4k-laser-ust-ces-65.html#post59012120


----------



## ArcVault

Ahh I see.
Sadness.

Thank you for solving this for me!


----------



## rayhk

I could never make the scheduled Info Wall working, the P1 won't turn on and display the info wall at the scheduled time. Any advice? Thanks.


----------



## ArcVault

DunMunro said:


> AIUI, the P1 uses version 2 of the .47 XPR chip. This chip has a narrow light border ( ~2cm) around the image, which is illuminated at the same level as the black bars in cinemascope films.


Just a quick question to that.
My white frame around the tv frame is vastly larger than the 2 cm you quote there. I would say 10-15 cm at least.
Is this also attributable to the Chip or is something off?


----------



## DunMunro

ArcVault said:


> Just a quick question to that.
> My white frame around the tv frame is vastly larger than the 2 cm you quote there. I would say 10-15 cm at least.
> Is this also attributable to the Chip or is something off?


I think after 5 posts you can post pictures. It's hard to visualize things without a photo.

How does it compare to the image that I linked to?


----------



## ArcVault

DunMunro said:


> I think after 5 posts you can post pictures. It's hard to visualize things without a photo.
> 
> How does it compare to the image that I linked to?


Just quoting to get to 5th post stand by


----------



## ArcVault

DunMunro said:


> I think after 5 posts you can post pictures. It's hard to visualize things without a photo.
> 
> How does it compare to the image that I linked to?


Sorry for the bad quality photos!

Elite Screens 100" Short Throw screen 224x127cm, 16:9, StarBright CLR, Aeon Series (I could not get a better brand/model around here at the time)
Optoma P1 and ofc dreaded white wall. (Sorry new to some of this)

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/460144908834045966/691490658569158726/IMG_20200316_003933.jpg
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/460144908834045966/691491038833147904/IMG_20200316_003947.jpg
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/460144908834045966/691491157267709952/IMG_20200316_004143.jpg

I know it may not look like it on the pictures but the external frame of light outside the screen is super distracting hence the questions.


----------



## DunMunro

ArcVault said:


> Sorry for the bad quality photos!
> 
> Elite Screens 100" Short Throw screen 224x127cm, 16:9, StarBright CLR, Aeon Series (I could not get a better brand/model around here at the time)
> Optoma P1 and ofc dreaded white wall. (Sorry new to some of this)
> 
> https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/460144908834045966/691490658569158726/IMG_20200316_003933.jpg
> https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/460144908834045966/691491038833147904/IMG_20200316_003947.jpg
> https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/460144908834045966/691491157267709952/IMG_20200316_004143.jpg
> 
> I know it may not look like it on the pictures but the external frame of light outside the screen is super distracting hence the questions.


At first glance it looks like you're using digital zoom to reduce the image size. Is this correct?


----------



## ArcVault

DunMunro said:


> At first glance it looks like you're using digital zoom to reduce the image size. Is this correct?


I do not know what that means.
What I did was position the Optoma so the picture fit my screen almost to a T. Then I used the app Optoma provides for setup with my phone to during setup to "snap" the picture into place taking care of small adjustments for me that is it.


----------



## DunMunro

ArcVault said:


> I do not know what that means.
> What I did was position the Optoma so the picture fit my screen almost to a T. Then I used the app Optoma provides for setup with my phone to during setup to "snap" the picture into place taking care of small adjustments for me that is it.



This image shows, along the sides of the frame, the typical narrow light frame of the 2nd gen .47in XPR chip:

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/460144908834045966/691491038833147904/IMG_20200316_003947.jpg

The light frame should fall on the black masking of your screen, and just beyond it. Yet, it appears on the wall well away from your screen. I suspect that you need to move the projector physically closer to the screen.


----------



## ArcVault

DunMunro said:


> This image shows, along the sides of the frame, the typical narrow light frame of the 2nd gen .47in XPR chip:
> 
> https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/460144908834045966/691491038833147904/IMG_20200316_003947.jpg
> 
> The light frame should fall on the black masking of your screen, and just beyond it. Yet, it appears on the wall well away from your screen. I suspect that you need to move the projector physically closer to the screen.


Thank you, seriously thank you for your kind assistance! - I will try and wrestle the setup in the next few days when i get time to see if this pans out *crosses fingers*


----------



## freejak13

iiikz said:


> I don’t have any objectively measured metrics, but in my subjective experience it is not close. I don’t use any geometric corrections or pure motion.
> 
> I tried the same game (Modern Warfare) on two game systems: standard PS4 (1080p) and PS4 Pro (4k). Modern Warfare is the most responsive first person shooter I’ve ever played on a console. Standard PS4 was completely unplayable with massive lag. It was dizzying trying to time movement with the lag. In stark contrast, PS4 Pro exhibits more lag than my 4k TV, but *is* playable and was easily noticeable as having less lag than the standard setup.
> 
> One important note: I had to change the settings on the projector to get the PS4 to recognize that it was 4k HDR capable, along with using a high speed cable.


Wouldn't enabling HDR introduce more lag? What settings in particular did you have to set on the projector?


----------



## iiikz

freejak13 said:


> Wouldn't enabling HDR introduce more lag? What settings in particular did you have to set on the projector?


I had to set the EDID setting (Display->HDMI Settings->EDID) for that input to 2.0


----------



## DunMunro

And another review:

https://audiovision.de/optoma-uhz-65ust-test/ (use google translate for language of choice).


----------



## diggumsmax

ArcVault said:


> Thank you, seriously thank you for your kind assistance! - I will try and wrestle the setup in the next few days when i get time to see if this pans out *crosses fingers*


This is a great feature but I hate how you have to overshoot the screen so much to get it to work. You lose brightness but my biggest issue is now the P1 needs to be even lower in order to use it. I need to remount my GrandView ALR screen and replace the material (already have it, just need to put it on and level the screen) as it's not 100% level but when not using that feature, this is what I get.. 

When looking at the screen, the right side is roughly a quarter inch higher then the left side, which is why the light leaks on the right side. The black border seems to be JUST enough to cover this but you have to have it lined up perfect and there is no wiggle room for these. My last two PJ's had lens shift which spoiled me although I still don't know how I was that off level but user error. These things are hard to get lined up perfectly. a few millimeters makes a huge difference.


----------



## Kev1000000

So, I found something interesting in regards to image quality that folks who have had the P1 for awhile may be experiencing.

Turns out, even a medium amount of dust on the lens reduces contrast *significantly.*

I noticed over time that I was becoming less and less happy with the contrast provided by the P1. I thought I was going crazy, but I felt like it was somehow getting worse. I started noticing that whenever there were bright scenes, the black floor rose significantly, and dark areas had a bright halo around them, killing contrast. I also noticed some minor streak lines on my screen, which I thought my screen was developing waves.

Well, my wife and I, while quarantined, did a bunch of deep cleaning of our living room yesterday. I normally never touch a projector lens, but my wife didn't know that, and dusted the lens/projector without me looking. When we fired it up that night, I noticed a massive improvement to contrast and color accuracy and that those screen waves were gone. When I looked at the projector and saw it was super clean, I realized that dust must really be impacting UST projectors because the lens compartment essentially is a dust bin. Traditional long-throw projectors, being perpendicular to the ground, don't seem to exhibit this as the lens doesn't really accumulate that much dust. But USTs, on the floor, and essentially having a valley for the lens compartment, is a perfect storm for having dust affect image quality.

To dust the lens, my wife just used one of those static dust fluffy things.

*tl;dr, dust your P1 occasionally.*


----------



## diggumsmax

Yes, this thing is a dust magnet. Only downside to the P1 being black IMO. Compressed air and a camera lens cloth at least once a month. A HEPA air filter would help but they aren't cheap. Below is from the manual. I think a tiny bit of camera lense cleaning liquid would help but only if you use a very tiny amount. 

Cleaning the Lens

- Before cleaning the lens, be sure to turn off the projector and unplug the power cord to allow it to 

completely cool down.

- Use a compressed air tank to remove the dust.

- Use a special cloth for cleaning lens and gently wipe the lens. Do not touch the lens with your fingers.

- Do not use alkaline/acid detergents or volatile solvents such as alcohol for cleaning lens. If the lens is 

damaged due to the cleaning process, it is not covered by the warranty.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Blacque Jacque Shellacque

*Quick Questions?*

Hi guys,

I've skimmed over this thread but haven't be able to really get an answer to what I'm looking for. If this has been previously asked, please forgive me.

As a noob on my first dedicated home theater build, I'm finally in the home stretch. I'm down to the projector and screen purchase.

During my build, I decided to move my screen wall out about 1.5 ft to get a little more room to have my front speakers behind the screen. Everything GREAT up to that point. 
Unfortunately I never remeasured the lens to screen distance. I no longer have my 12ft throw for my 120" screen. I'm down to 10.5ft. Really kinda sux, but I'll chalk it up to learning.

The projector I was looking at purchasing was a Sony 295es. Needless to say, the only way that will work now will be to put the screen back to the wall and have my speakers exposed in front of it. 
I would really like to keep my screen to a 120" if possible and not have to scale down to 100" or so.

Sorry for the into, but on to the questions.

1. Will this projector (Optoma CinemaX P1 4K UST ) be a 'good' compromise if I were to purchase it? Picture wise?
2. Could it be ceiling mounted as well?

Thanks for any help!

Mike


----------



## DunMunro

Another review:






This review is well worth watching.


----------



## DunMunro

Blacque Jacque Shellacque said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I've skimmed over this thread but haven't be able to really get an answer to what I'm looking for. If this has been previously asked, please forgive me.
> 
> As a noob on my first dedicated home theater build, I'm finally in the home stretch. I'm down to the projector and screen purchase.
> 
> During my build, I decided to move my screen wall out about 1.5 ft to get a little more room to have my front speakers behind the screen. Everything GREAT up to that point.
> Unfortunately I never remeasured the lens to screen distance. I no longer have my 12ft throw for my 120" screen. I'm down to 10.5ft. Really kinda sux, but I'll chalk it up to learning.
> 
> The projector I was looking at purchasing was a Sony 295es. Needless to say, the only way that will work now will be to put the screen back to the wall and have my speakers exposed in front of it.
> I would really like to keep my screen to a 120" if possible and not have to scale down to 100" or so.
> 
> Sorry for the into, but on to the questions.
> 
> 1. Will this projector (Optoma CinemaX P1 4K UST ) be a 'good' compromise if I were to purchase it? Picture wise?
> 2. Could it be ceiling mounted as well?
> 
> Thanks for any help!
> 
> Mike


According to the manual there's no option for ceiling mounting.

Edit: The LG HU85LA can be ceiling mounted.


----------



## ernest787

the vividstorm 110" floor rising screen arrived yesterday!!!! 

Unfortunately, they did not include the wall mounting brackets in the box. I guess I was suppose to email them directly about needing that and they would have provided but I wasn't aware. I went ahead and ordered some shelving brackets off Amazon that should be able to support it. 

The P1 looks great on it though. I don't have it set up perfect right now since the brackets don't show up until today. But for the time being have it rigged so the Optoma fills out most of the screen. 

Hopefully will get the brackets in today and get the room set into it's final positions. The last piece of the room are black out blinds which have been ordered but due to covid19 are being delayed :frown: 

I'll give more info once I have it all set and send some pictures, but for now I'm thoroughly impressed with this set up. Image is stunning even in full daylight with no blinds on the window. At night when it's dark out, the image really pops.


----------



## kj4860

Been lurking for a bit now and took the plunge! I wanted to give an update regarding the Marsielle 4K "Ultra" 8ft cable - i cannot get the projector to recognize this cable with either EDID thus can confirm (for now) it does not upscale thus does not reduce input lag.


----------



## ernest787

Wall brackets showed up and I was able to wall mount the vividstorm screen. 

I'm using a 1x4 Kallax for a media stand for the P1 since it's low to the ground. I thought I had a great idea to mount the screen so it's flush with the Kallax, so when you raise the screen it looks like it's coming up from the Kallax (not exactly since the Kallax isn't long enough to fully hide the screen, but you get the idea). 

Unfortunately, couldn't get the P1 to lien up with the 110" screen this way. It ended up making like 12" of the screen unusable. Had to take the mount down and go back to the drawing board. Ended up having to mount the screen about 4" above the Kallax. Now have maybe 1/2" of the bottom of the screen that the P1 doesn't fill. So I probably should have raised it slightly more, but overall I'm happy with it now. Took me about 2 hours to get to that point and the wife would kill me if I took it down and drill more holes in the wall, lol

Super happy with the purchase of both the projector and screen. Image is amazing. Would definitely recommend the combo for anyone looking, just know the set up is finicky and can be a struggle but with a little patience you'll be rewarded.


----------



## legnaz

Has anyone got the entire screen focused? The top right corner is blurry if the rest of the corners are focused. If i get the too right corner focused, then the rest goes blurry. Ive tried moving the projector multiple times, but that doesn't help. Contacted optoma and they said it was defective and to start an RMA. Just wondering if you guys have had this issue.


----------



## iiikz

legnaz said:


> Has anyone got the entire screen focused? The top right corner is blurry if the rest of the corners are focused. If i get the too right corner focused, then the rest goes blurry. Ive tried moving the projector multiple times, but that doesn't help. Contacted optoma and they said it was defective and to start an RMA. Just wondering if you guys have had this issue.


Make sure your wall is flat and screen is secured. i initially had some issues when I didn’t have the bottom of the screen secured - based on the way the screen hung from the upper brackets the bottom splayed out a bit, affecting focus until i secured all 4 corners.


----------



## iiikz

DunMunro said:


> According to the manual there's no option for ceiling mounting.
> 
> Edit: The LG HU85LA can be ceiling mounted.


there’s not a formal option, but i believe some models will flip the image if you do mount it yourself. it’s strongly “not recommended” for sure.

also: ceiling mounting will essentially make it impossible to use ceiling rejecting light screens like the Elite, which REALLY help this work as a TV replacement. the whole principle behind that technology exploits the fact that the projector light source is coming from the opposite direction from other room lights; if you put the pj on the ceiling then those screens don’t work.


----------



## Blacque Jacque Shellacque

iiikz said:


> there’s not a formal option, but i believe some models will flip the image if you do mount it yourself. it’s strongly “not recommended” for sure.
> 
> also: ceiling mounting will essentially make it impossible to use ceiling rejecting light screens like the Elite, which REALLY help this work as a TV replacement. the whole principle behind that technology exploits the fact that the projector light source is coming from the opposite direction from other room lights; if you put the pj on the ceiling then those screens don’t work.


Thanks for the insight.

After speaking with my local source, they spoke to those points as well. My goal was also to keep the equipment behind the screen wall. 
Looks like the UST screens are not available acoustically transparent as well. 
All in all, I just caved and will mount a 110" screen on the back wall and have the speakers out in front. 
Although they have a piano black finish, I liked how clean everything looked with it all hidden. We'll see.
Not too much demo to do to get to that point. 

Picked up a VW295es at a great price and a 110" 4K Reference Nanoedge screen. They will calibrate together and ship out to me. Hoping to see it sometime in the next week or so.

Thanks again for the help.

Mike


----------



## diggumsmax

DunMunro said:


> According to the manual there's no option for ceiling mounting.
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: The LG HU85LA can be ceiling mounted.


There is an option in settings but optoma has said this was designed for tabletop. You could always hang the alr screen upside down but then you wouldn't be able have any overhead lights. The washout would be crazy due to how these screens work as others have already stated. A regular screen will probably bounces light straight down. I know my white ceiling looked like a strobe light on my Stewart Firehawk (no alr) compared to my Grandview dynamique alr screen. 

Optoma does not recommend and as others have said it defeats the whole purpose. 

A fresnel based screen might work but they are hard screens which makes them heavy and expensive to ship and are not cheap. The viewing angles are also limited when compared to lectengulare based screens and they have a noticeable glare but they do reject ambient light from all angles better. The XY Fresnel is actually priced very well but have fun finding someone that will ship just a single screen that can't be rolled up in any way. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Smokey100

I've encountered a lot of issues with my P1. Sometimes the tint shifts. It's reproducible. If I go back and view a scene again the shift happens in the same place. I don't think it's the content because it happens with a lot of content but not all content. It happens whether I view the same content on my Apple TV 4K or my Firestick 4K. There are no additional cables, they are plugged into HDMI 1 and HDMI 2. I'm thinking that it happens more when viewing BBC show via Amazon but I can't say for sure. But some other weird things happen. On a few shows I was getting random flashes. Some seemed like flash frames and others looked blotchy (not pixelated). In the middle of one show half the screen was brighter than the other half. My Wifi signal is strong and I get about 275 Mbps. I've reset the projector to factory defaults several time. It should play well right out of the box. Does anyone have any ideas of what might be going on? Is anyone else having the same problems. 

Thanks,

Bryan


----------



## ernest787

Smokey100 said:


> I've encountered a lot of issues with my P1. Sometimes the tint shifts. It's reproducible. If I go back and view a scene again the shift happens in the same place. I don't think it's the content because it happens with a lot of content but not all content. It happens whether I view the same content on my Apple TV 4K or my Firestick 4K. There are no additional cables, they are plugged into HDMI 1 and HDMI 2. I'm thinking that it happens more when viewing BBC show via Amazon but I can't say for sure. But some other weird things happen. On a few shows I was getting random flashes. Some seemed like flash frames and others looked blotchy (not pixelated). In the middle of one show half the screen was brighter than the other half. My Wifi signal is strong and I get about 275 Mbps. I've reset the projector to factory defaults several time. It should play well right out of the box. Does anyone have any ideas of what might be going on? Is anyone else having the same problems.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bryan


Do you have Dynamic Blacks on? That seems to cause some tint shifting when scenes darken and such. Try setting to 100% and see if that helps.


----------



## mjbok

Hello,


I'm looking to probably buy the P1 later this year. If (and this is a big if) everything comes out alright on the otherside of the Corona stuff I should be in a good position to do this sometime in Q3. I had a couple of questions for those that are current owners.


1. Is there already a next gen version of this projector out. I've seen stuff about an Optoma Prox (IIRC) which looks exactly the same, but with a higher lumen count. Is this right, is it available, what does it cost, and is it worth it over the P1?


2. This would be going where the TV currently is in the attached picture. For reference that is a 65" TV. Would this be a good place for it?


3. Does anyone use this as their primary TV? This would be mine (outside of the bedroom).


4. The room has blackout blinds, but does have a normal amount of ambient light. Would this be acceptable?


5. What is the best price you've seen for this? I saw it at amazon earlier this week for under 3500 and almost pulled the trigger, but it went back up? I figure at 3500 with a screen total out of pocket would be about 5k.


6. Has anybody tried the 3d? If so from what sources? Other projectors I have let you specify that a file you're playing is SBS and it works beautifully.


7. Can you use an IR remote with this? I believe the included one is bluetooth. I use MX programmed remotes throughout the house and it would suck if I had to go back to multiple remotes.


8. Do you regret buying it? If so, why?


Thanks!


----------



## RobinsonCrusoe

I can try and answer some of your questions:

1: Don´t know about a new version, but the P1 is just 5 months old i guess, so the next generation could/should be due this fall/winter. Only difference is the international version P1 has 3.000 lumens and the european version UHZ65UST (which i own) has 3.500 lumens.

2: The place in your living room looks perfect for this kind of pj since you have no special low- or sideboard which could be too high or unfitting.

3: For us the pj replaced a 55 inch LG OLED. Don´t regret it one day. The 100 inch picture is great and gaming on an Xbox One X is perfect. An Apple TV4k for movie and tv show streaming and a Technisat cable receiver for TV are hooked to a Denon AV and connected to the pj, too.

4: Direct sunlight kills the picture. A bit of ambient light on a cloudy day for example are no problem. The darker the better of course.

5: I paid in euros so the prize will be different.

6: Didn't try 3d for now, sorry.

7: I don't use any special remote. Just the hdmi cec setting which turns the pj on and off and switches to the correct hdmi port.

8: As i said, i didn't regret it one day. Just make sure to not expect OLED blacks. But you will love the size of the picture when you feed it quality content.

Cheers!


----------



## g4s

mjbok said:


> Hello,
> 
> 
> I'm looking to probably buy the P1 later this year. If (and this is a big if) everything comes out alright on the otherside of the Corona stuff I should be in a good position to do this sometime in Q3. I had a couple of questions for those that are current owners.
> 
> 
> 1. Is there already a next gen version of this projector out. I've seen stuff about an Optoma Prox (IIRC) which looks exactly the same, but with a higher lumen count. Is this right, is it available, what does it cost, and is it worth it over the P1?
> 
> 
> 2. This would be going where the TV currently is in the attached picture. For reference that is a 65" TV. Would this be a good place for it?
> 
> 
> 3. Does anyone use this as their primary TV? This would be mine (outside of the bedroom).
> 
> 
> 4. The room has blackout blinds, but does have a normal amount of ambient light. Would this be acceptable?
> 
> 
> 5. What is the best price you've seen for this? I saw it at amazon earlier this week for under 3500 and almost pulled the trigger, but it went back up? I figure at 3500 with a screen total out of pocket would be about 5k.
> 
> 
> 6. Has anybody tried the 3d? If so from what sources? Other projectors I have let you specify that a file you're playing is SBS and it works beautifully.
> 
> 
> 7. Can you use an IR remote with this? I believe the included one is bluetooth. I use MX programmed remotes throughout the house and it would suck if I had to go back to multiple remotes.
> 
> 
> 8. Do you regret buying it? If so, why?
> 
> 
> Thanks!


We love ours. It's our main TV. 1800 hours in 6 months.

I'd recommend getting an ALR screen for sure. We got an XY PET Crystal 120" Our floor is light color wood, so direct sunlight reflecting up from the floor does wash the picture out a bit. Closing one set of blinds fixes that. Usually not necessary though. Just looks like a giant flat panel.

Haven't tried 3D.

The remote is both IR or Bluetooth.

IMO it really needs to be mounted low. I made a low platform for the P1 and center channel.

The room is much brighter than the picture makes it look.


----------



## mjbok

g4s said:


> We love ours. It's our main TV. 1800 hours in 6 months.
> 
> I'd recommend getting an ALR screen for sure. We got an XY PET Crystal 120" Our floor is light color wood, so direct sunlight reflecting up from the floor does wash the picture out a bit. Closing one set of blinds fixes that. Usually not necessary though. Just looks like a giant flat panel.
> 
> Haven't tried 3D.
> 
> The remote is both IR or Bluetooth.
> 
> IMO it really needs to be mounted low. I made a low platform for the P1 and center channel.
> 
> The room is much brighter than the picture makes it look.





I know it is somewhere in this thread, but do you know the distance from the bottom of the projector to the bottom of the image?


----------



## g4s

mjbok said:


> I know it is somewhere in this thread, but do you know the distance from the bottom of the projector to the bottom of the image?


For my 120" screen it's 19 1/2" from the bottom of the projector to the bottom of the image. Of course smaller size screens will be less. Also there are differences from one P1 to the next. Up to a few inches if I remember right. The projector really needs to be set up before mounting the screen.


----------



## mjbok

mjbok said:


> I know it is somewhere in this thread, but do you know the distance from the bottom of the projector to the bottom of the image?



That would put the bottom of the screen about where the bottom of my TV is currently. I wonder if that will be too high? Got months until I have to worry about it so I can plan it out. Wife goes out of town, projector goes in. See if she notices.


//I replaced a 55" with a 65" and she didn't notice.


----------



## Mikkle

ernest787 said:


> Do you have Dynamic Blacks on? That seems to cause some tint shifting when scenes darken and such. Try setting to 100% and see if that helps.


This is correct. I see the same ting shifting problem using Dynamic Black, regardless of the source. Setting it to Power 100% resolves the issue.


----------



## g4s

mjbok said:


> That would put the bottom of the screen about where the bottom of my TV is currently. I wonder if that will be too high? Got months until I have to worry about it so I can plan it out. Wife goes out of town, projector goes in. See if she notices.
> 
> 
> //I replaced a 55" with a 65" and she didn't notice.


That would be too high for me. To give you an idea, a 100" 16:9 screen is 49" tall. A 120" is 59" tall.


----------



## GmdVT

So how would this projector compare to a Samsung 75 Q9?, that is what I currently have and want to go bigger next upgrade and getting a larger TV is just impractical, HT is on the third floor of a town home and getting a large TV up is a PITA. My current room does have sunlight but I am going to get blackout curtains so it shouldn't be much of an issue. The one thing I love about the Q9 is the HDR brightness. Attached is photo of current setup, I could put it right whre the TV is, or remove that top shelf and put it where the center speaker is and relocate center speaker to where receiver is and move that to the side


----------



## diggumsmax

mjbok said:


> Hello,
> 
> 
> I'm looking to probably buy the P1 later this year. If (and this is a big if) everything comes out alright on the otherside of the Corona stuff I should be in a good position to do this sometime in Q3. I had a couple of questions for those that are current owners.
> 
> 
> 1. Is there already a next gen version of this projector out. I've seen stuff about an Optoma Prox (IIRC) which looks exactly the same, but with a higher lumen count. Is this right, is it available, what does it cost, and is it worth it over the P1?
> 
> 2. This would be going where the TV currently is in the attached picture. For reference that is a 65" TV. Would this be a good place for it?
> 
> 3. Does anyone use this as their primary TV? This would be mine (outside of the bedroom)
> 
> 4. The room has blackout blinds, but does have a normal amount of ambient light. Would this be acceptable?
> 
> 5. What is the best price you've seen for this? I saw it at amazon earlier this week for under 3500 and almost pulled the trigger, but it went back up? I figure at 3500 with a screen total out of pocket would be about 5k.
> 
> 6. Has anybody tried the 3d? If so from what sources? Other projectors I have let you specify that a file you're playing is SBS and it works beautifully.
> 
> 7. Can you use an IR remote with this? I believe the included one is bluetooth. I use MX programmed remotes throughout the house and it would suck if I had to go back to multiple remotes.
> 
> 8. Do you regret buying it? If so, why?
> 
> 
> Thanks!


1 - This will differ as each unit has an offset ratio. No two projectors are going to be the same. Now, I finally just ended up using the smartfit feature which adjust everything for you. Usually I'm against this and try to line it up without any keystone correction or adjustment of the feet but I find the picture to be just as good. You do have to overshoot the screen a bit so you will lose a small amount of brightness when using this feature. Gaming mode can't use this feature either or if it can the lag time will be increased. For the P1, minimum you are going to get is just under 14"s for 100" screen. I get just over 17"'s due to the offset. There is no lens shift of any kind.

2 - There is another model that is 500 lumens brighter so 3500 compared to better but I could be wrong about that. Outside of that, it's exactly the same.3000 with the P1. The contrast ratio might be a little

2 - Yes, I have been using a PJ as my main display for over ten years (lots of money in bulbs) and this is by far the best, ESPECIALLY with an ALR screen. I can't stress enough how much it's worth it even if you have a bat cave like environment due to the way it reflects light.

4 - More then Yes. I will PM you a link. For some reason it won't let me share Google photo video links here. This is the P1 on my Grandview 100" ALR screen. I have a few short videos on Youtube though.






5 - Announced at $2999 USD. Went up to $3300 at first due to tariffs, then again due to tariffs. Highly doubt you will find for cheaper from an authorized re seller. 

6 - Can't answer this one

7 - Yes, although the IR sensor is in an odd position

8- Not one bit. I did hate that the price went up but Optoma can't eat money like some of the bigger brands that sell various electronics so it's understandable. I got a great deal on a the P1 and ALR screen from projectorscreen .com. They were very helpful and I ended up talking to the main PJ guy for around 30 minutes so you will get better answers then from me. Please note, I have no affiliation, just the authorized retailer I purchased from and they were very helpful. I do hate the costs but it's new tech. You can either wait until it becomes more affordable or jump in now. There is always that when buying new tech.


----------



## akm3

mjbok said:


> Hello,
> 
> 
> I'm looking to probably buy the P1 later this year. If (and this is a big if) everything comes out alright on the otherside of the Corona stuff I should be in a good position to do this sometime in Q3. I had a couple of questions for those that are current owners.
> 
> 
> 1. Is there already a next gen version of this projector out. I've seen stuff about an Optoma Prox (IIRC) which looks exactly the same, but with a higher lumen count. Is this right, is it available, what does it cost, and is it worth it over the P1?
> 
> 
> 2. This would be going where the TV currently is in the attached picture. For reference that is a 65" TV. Would this be a good place for it?
> 
> 
> 3. Does anyone use this as their primary TV? This would be mine (outside of the bedroom).
> 
> 
> 4. The room has blackout blinds, but does have a normal amount of ambient light. Would this be acceptable?
> 
> 
> 5. What is the best price you've seen for this? I saw it at amazon earlier this week for under 3500 and almost pulled the trigger, but it went back up? I figure at 3500 with a screen total out of pocket would be about 5k.
> 
> 
> 6. Has anybody tried the 3d? If so from what sources? Other projectors I have let you specify that a file you're playing is SBS and it works beautifully.
> 
> 
> 7. Can you use an IR remote with this? I believe the included one is bluetooth. I use MX programmed remotes throughout the house and it would suck if I had to go back to multiple remotes.
> 
> 
> 8. Do you regret buying it? If so, why?
> 
> 
> Thanks!


I've used the 3D from a Sony blu ray player. It took a little bit for the player to recognize the projector as a 3D capable source. But, once it did it worked beautifully with the same active glasses I used to use with my Benq w1070. The picture was fantastic (as long as the room was dark) in 3D.


----------



## th8ter

There is another Optoma called the CinemaX Pro: https://www.optoma.com/us/product/cinemax-pro/#product_download_128_tab


----------



## Christian Spiga

th8ter said:


> There is another Optoma called the CinemaX Pro: https://www.optoma.com/us/product/cinemax-pro/#product_download_128_tab


WTF......this bastards really produce a new P1 with better Brightness and better Contrast??????


CinemaX P1 (CINEMAX-P1)

Brightness: 3,000 ANSI lumens
Contrast Ratio:	Up to 1,500,000:1 with Dynamic Black


CinemaX PRO (CINEMAX-P1-1)

Brightness: 3,500 ANSI lumens
Contrast Ratio:	Up to 2,500,000:1 with Dynamic Black


Are you kidding me???? Wow i'm really pissed, i spend € 3000 5 months ago and they produce a better version, that in the Codename is a P1 ver.2 ?????




UPDATE:
OH my god, i never see the difference before, but the European version that i buy (UHZ65UST) is exactly like the CINEMA X PRO......so i'm lucky!


----------



## Tuan

The CinemaX Pro costs a bit more than the CinemaX P1.



Christian Spiga said:


> WTF......this bastards really produce a new P1 with better Brightness and better Contrast??????
> 
> 
> CinemaX P1 (CINEMAX-P1)
> 
> Brightness: 3,000 ANSI lumens
> Contrast Ratio:	Up to 1,500,000:1 with Dynamic Black
> 
> 
> CinemaX PRO (CINEMAX-P1-1)
> 
> Brightness: 3,500 ANSI lumens
> Contrast Ratio:	Up to 2,500,000:1 with Dynamic Black
> 
> 
> Are you kidding me???? Wow i'm really pissed, i spend € 3000 5 months ago and they produce a better version, that in the Codename is a P1 ver.2 ?????
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UPDATE:
> OH my god, i never see the difference before, but the European version that i buy (UHZ65UST) is exactly like the CINEMA X PRO......so i'm lucky!


----------



## g4s

Looks like the CinemaX Pro is about $4400. I still like my P1 for the $3100 I paid.


----------



## ernest787

Random issue that has popped up the last 2 days or so. I have the warp control out to line up my picture on the screen. Randomly it'll get slowly out of whack and I'll have to move it back to the edges of the screen. I can't find any settings that would be causing it to reset, but what's even weirder is that it doesn't completely reset just moves the top of the image down like an 1 inch. 

Anyone else have something like that happen?


----------



## g4s

ernest787 said:


> Random issue that has popped up the last 2 days or so. I have the warp control out to line up my picture on the screen. Randomly it'll get slowly out of whack and I'll have to move it back to the edges of the screen. I can't find any settings that would be causing it to reset, but what's even weirder is that it doesn't completely reset just moves the top of the image down like an 1 inch.
> 
> Anyone else have something like that happen?


I'm not using warp control, but maybe unplugging the P1 for a few minutes might be worth with a try. A restart might take care of it.


----------



## mjbok

th8ter said:


> There is another Optoma called the CinemaX Pro: https://www.optoma.com/us/product/cinemax-pro/#product_download_128_tab


The ProX is the one I asked about a page or two back in this thread. That's a chunk of extra money. Is it worth it?


----------



## 3sprit

Christian Spiga said:


> UPDATE:
> OH my god, i never see the difference before, but the European version that i buy (UHZ65UST) is exactly like the CINEMA X PRO......so i'm lucky!


Yes, it seems to be the same:
https://www.optoma.com/us/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/CinemaX-Pro-Datasheet-3.pdf
https://www.optoma.ru/ContentStorage/Documents/4b98499b-b203-47c3-b516-22016ed06fbc.pdf


----------



## Kev1000000

Has anyone done a comparison between the P1 and ProX?


----------



## Micke S

mjbok said:


> Hello,
> 
> 
> I'm looking to probably buy the P1 later this year. If (and this is a big if) everything comes out alright on the otherside of the Corona stuff I should be in a good position to do this sometime in Q3. I had a couple of questions for those that are current owners.
> 
> 
> 1. Is there already a next gen version of this projector out. I've seen stuff about an Optoma Prox (IIRC) which looks exactly the same, but with a higher lumen count. Is this right, is it available, what does it cost, and is it worth it over the P1?


If you plan to watch a lot of material during the day or in a social setting, like sports, it's probably worth getting every bit of extra lumen you can. But the difference seems minimal, and if the P1 will drop in price due to the X being out, your wallet will have to decide. I have no problem with the appearance of sports in the "Bright" setting during the day on my P1, but YMMV.





> 2. This would be going where the TV currently is in the attached picture. For reference that is a 65" TV. Would this be a good place for it?


Looks like a great spot for it.




> 3. Does anyone use this as their primary TV? This would be mine (outside of the bedroom).


I use it as my only "TV". I've had to watch a few YouTube videos on my iPad instead because I was so uncomfortably close to their giant faces. lol.




> 4. The room has blackout blinds, but does have a normal amount of ambient light. Would this be acceptable?


What is a "normal amount"? For movies and TV shows you likely want it to be pretty dim or entirely dark - as usual with projectors, the darkest it will be on the screen is as dark as the room is.
For sports and news etc I watch with just the regular ambient light, doesn't bother me.




> 5. What is the best price you've seen for this? I saw it at amazon earlier this week for under 3500 and almost pulled the trigger, but it went back up? I figure at 3500 with a screen total out of pocket would be about 5k.
> 
> 6. Has anybody tried the 3d? If so from what sources? Other projectors I have let you specify that a file you're playing is SBS and it works beautifully.


I have watched several 3D movies - Alita: Battle Angel, Pacific Rim: Uprising, Spider-Man: Homecoming and more. Looks as good as any 3D TV I've seen. The 3D capability was the main reason I picked this one (it is AFAIK the only comparable projector on the market with 3D), and I'm super happy with it. You'll need active 3D glasses, they're plentiful and cheap at Amazon, Ebay, etc.




> 7. Can you use an IR remote with this? I believe the included one is bluetooth. I use MX programmed remotes throughout the house and it would suck if I had to go back to multiple remotes.


Don't know.




> 8. Do you regret buying it? If so, why?


No, my only regret is that I didn't buy it right when it came out!

A few notes:
It is DLP, so you might see rainbows. I see them, but my family does not. I debated whether I should keep it, and I'm glad I did, because I don't even think about the rainbows anymore. But be aware, they will show if you're sensitive to them.

The built in "apps" are absolute garbage and Optoma should be embarrassed for even providing them. Don't even think about using them, use Fire TV, Apple TV, blu-ray player etc.

I have a weird bug where it turns on the internal speaker even though it's sett to OFF. I have to set it to "ON" and then back to "OFF" in order for it to stop (since I have an external sound system I want it off).


I USED to have a problem with a message saying "Updating AMP information..." intermittently on the screen during programming, but it went away and was replaced by this audio bug.  I haven't contacted Optoma about it yet. 

Other than that I'm so thrilled with this thing. If you have the placement for it (remember it needs to be over a foot away from the wall), go for it.


----------



## asd210111

legnaz said:


> I am having an issue where the projector resets the warp settings everytime I turn it off. I have to readjust the screen fit settings every damn time I turn it on. Does this happen to anyone else? Is there a fix? All the other settings dont reset, just the screen. I have a fixed screen, not a pull down. Also the top right corner is blurry and when i get that in focus, the rest goes out of focus. Its pretty annoying. Thanks.


Hi, Just wondering if you got this thing fixed. I got a Fengmi Projector having the same issue which driving me nuts...I was thinking about buying this projector....but if its having same issue....I would reconsider this. Thanks....


----------



## asd210111

ernest787 said:


> Random issue that has popped up the last 2 days or so. I have the warp control out to line up my picture on the screen. Randomly it'll get slowly out of whack and I'll have to move it back to the edges of the screen. I can't find any settings that would be causing it to reset, but what's even weirder is that it doesn't completely reset just moves the top of the image down like an 1 inch.
> 
> Anyone else have something like that happen?


Have you find a fix yet?
Seems like this issue is similar to the one I quoated above
Thanks!


----------



## legnaz

asd210111 said:


> legnaz said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am having an issue where the projector resets the warp settings everytime I turn it off. I have to readjust the screen fit settings every damn time I turn it on. Does this happen to anyone else? Is there a fix? All the other settings dont reset, just the screen. I have a fixed screen, not a pull down. Also the top right corner is blurry and when i get that in focus, the rest goes out of focus. Its pretty annoying. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi, Just wondering if you got this thing fixed. I got a Fengmi Projector having the same issue which driving me nuts...I was thinking about buying this projector....but if its having same issue....I would reconsider this. Thanks....
Click to expand...


It stopped doing it for some reason. Maybe I wasnt turning it off right.


----------



## ernest787

asd210111 said:


> Have you find a fix yet?
> Seems like this issue is similar to the one I quoated above
> Thanks!


I reset the warp control and then set it back up. Since doing that it seems to be working fine.


----------



## 3sprit

Micke S said:


> It is DLP, so you might see rainbows. I see them, but my family does not. I debated whether I should keep it, and I'm glad I did, because I don't even think about the rainbows anymore. But be aware, they will show if you're sensitive to them.


I have never had a DLP projector but seeing videos on YouTube I think to have noticed it. I don't know if it depends on the camera shooting the screen. Unfortunately, due to Covid19, there is no way to go to stores, but it can only be purchased online. Is it better to wait and try it in the shop? Thank you


----------



## Kev1000000

FWIW, I am pretty susceptible to rainbows, and definitely noticed them early on with the P1, but I have since not really noticed them as I put more hours in with the unit. I see a few everyone once in awhile where there is a super bright white light in an overall dark scene, but you really get good at tuning them out over time. I wouldn't let it stop you from getting the P1.


----------



## DunMunro

3sprit said:


> I have never had a DLP projector but seeing videos on YouTube I think to have noticed it. I don't know if it depends on the camera shooting the screen. Unfortunately, due to Covid19, there is no way to go to stores, but it can only be purchased online. Is it better to wait and try it in the shop? Thank you


Cameras can show RBE if there's a mismatch between a high shutter speed and the colour wheel spin rate, but human eye typically won't see them.


----------



## Mick Seymour

Has anyone found a setting that turns off the projector immediately with a single click on the remote or PJ power button? I'm trying to configure my Harmony 900 remote to power it off after use and it always sticks at the screen showing the two options shutdown or audio.


----------



## ernest787

My biggest frustration with this projector is trying to get it lined up perfectly and get the Warp Control set. I have to overshoot the screen to get it to fill the screen. I can't get auto align feature to work. I'm guessing it's b/c I'm using the Vividstorm screen and there is no frame for it to use to make the adjustments. 

The image looks fine, but my perfectionist tendencies gnaw at me when I see that the screen is slightly off square. I then end up spending 30 - 40 minutes trying to get it fully square but can never fully accomplish this.

Anyone have any tips/tricks? Any specific test image that can be used to help?


----------



## Micke S

Kev1000000 said:


> FWIW, I am pretty susceptible to rainbows, and definitely noticed them early on with the P1, but I have since not really noticed them as I put more hours in with the unit. I see a few everyone once in awhile where there is a super bright white light in an overall dark scene, but you really get good at tuning them out over time. I wouldn't let it stop you from getting the P1.


Yup that is my experience too.


----------



## Micke S

3sprit said:


> I have never had a DLP projector but seeing videos on YouTube I think to have noticed it. I don't know if it depends on the camera shooting the screen. Unfortunately, due to Covid19, there is no way to go to stores, but it can only be purchased online. Is it better to wait and try it in the shop? Thank you


I'd say get it but make sure there's a good return policy.


----------



## Micke S

ernest787 said:


> My biggest frustration with this projector is trying to get it lined up perfectly and get the Warp Control set. I have to overshoot the screen to get it to fill the screen. I can't get auto align feature to work. I'm guessing it's b/c I'm using the Vividstorm screen and there is no frame for it to use to make the adjustments.
> 
> 
> 
> The image looks fine, but my perfectionist tendencies gnaw at me when I see that the screen is slightly off square. I then end up spending 30 - 40 minutes trying to get it fully square but can never fully accomplish this.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have any tips/tricks? Any specific test image that can be used to help?


Because of the extreme projection angle, a screen that is not perfectly perpendicular to the projector might be a little bit tricky.
My advice, and what I did, is to make sure the projector is level and then use the time and effort to make sure the screen is adjusted to fit that. I used Velcro and duct tape behind the screen to make it perfectly vertical. It didn't take long and was much less work than trying to adjust the projected image.
As with any projector, you might have to be satisfied with a little bit of warping. Not even movie theaters get a perfect TV picture.


----------



## g4s

Micke S said:


> Because of the extreme projection angle, a screen that is not perfectly perpendicular to the projector might be a little bit tricky.
> My advice, and what I did, is to make sure the projector is level and then use the time and effort to make sure the screen is adjusted to fit that. I used Velcro and duct tape behind the screen to make it perfectly vertical. It didn't take long and was much less work than trying to adjust the projected image.
> As with any projector, you might have to be satisfied with a little bit of warping. Not even movie theaters get a perfect TV picture.


Yeah, it really helps to have a perfectly flat screen. I aligned mine manually. Part of the fine tuning was a folded piece of a paper towel under one lower corner of the screen. Small adjustments make a large difference. 
Something I've noticed, in winter the image is about 1/4" higher than with warmer weather outside here. Humidity change? Floor or wall movement. Only see it when showing computer desktop image.


----------



## ernest787

Thanks for the replies. I'm using the vividstorm floor rising screen and have it mounted to the wall. I had used a level to make sure my brackets were even.

I didn't realize though when I put it in the bracket, each side has small padding on it. Only one of side had the padding was on the bracket so it was slightly uneven. I reset the screen and then squared it all up again. It looks much better now. Still a very slight amount of warping on the edge but Micke is right, even theaters can have some slight warping at the edges. 

For my sanity, I also put the remote in the cabinet away from my seating position so I don't mess with it anymore.


----------



## Micke S

ernest787 said:


> Thanks for the replies. I'm using the vividstorm floor rising screen and have it mounted to the wall. I had used a level to make sure my brackets were even.
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't realize though when I put it in the bracket, each side has small padding on it. Only one of side had the padding was on the bracket so it was slightly uneven. I reset the screen and then squared it all up again. It looks much better now. Still a very slight amount of warping on the edge but Micke is right, even theaters can have some slight warping at the edges.
> 
> 
> 
> For my sanity, I also put the remote in the cabinet away from my seating position so I don't mess with it anymore.


That last sentence made me LOL. Good fix.


----------



## asd210111

ernest787 said:


> I reset the warp control and then set it back up. Since doing that it seems to be working fine.


Thanks for letting me know.


----------



## asd210111

legnaz said:


> It stopped doing it for some reason. Maybe I wasnt turning it off right.


Thanks for letting me know.


----------



## eurovtec

Kev1000000 said:


> Has anyone done a comparison between the P1 and ProX?


My virgin post....
Using Optoma website compare function, it seems like the DLP chip is the same.
Only the brightness and contrast is higher for the X version.
If there’s no hardware changes to the X version, then does it mean the P1 unit is “supercharged” to achieve that brightness/contrast? 
And if so, it will shorten the lifetime of the unit.


----------



## g4s

eurovtec said:


> My virgin post....
> Using Optoma website compare function, it seems like the DLP chip is the same.
> Only the brightness and contrast is higher for the X version.
> If there’s no hardware changes to the X version, then does it mean the P1 unit is “supercharged” to achieve that brightness/contrast?
> And if so, it will shorten the lifetime of the unit.


Might have a different higher power laser than the P1?
Wouldn't matter to me. I run the Brightness Mode Power on my P1 at 55% for almost everything but HDR video. Plenty bright enough for the room and hopefully extending it's life. It has 1875 hrs for the first 6 months or so.


----------



## ernest787

I've never owned a 3D tv/projector and was never really interested in 3D, but now that I have the P1 and it has the capability I"d like to get a few pairs of glasses to check it out.

Can anyone recommend glasses that will work with the P1. I've been looking on Amazon and found a few but not really sure if there is a big difference between them. 

Appreciate it.


----------



## RJ87

New to posting here but have been following this forum for a long time! I recently bought the Optoma P1 and love the image. Despite multiple adjustments, I can’t remove the white border that surrounds the image and it’s driving me nuts! 🙂 Attached is an image of what I’m experiencing. Does anyone have any suggestions on getting rid of the white border? Unfortunately Optoma support wasn’t much help on this. If it helps- I have a 100in Elite Screens Aeon CLR screen which has a very thin bezel. 

Do all UST projectors have a white border or is it unique to this projector? Not sure what the purpose of this is? 

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks


----------



## Mick Seymour

It is normal for this projector and others. I believe it is light reflection from the edges of the chip.


Some people are using screens with a wider bezel which being black don't show the border so much. I've read others use black felt or paint around the outsize of the screen.


I'm going to use a thin bezel 120" screen and I'm hoping I can fit the image and the reflection within the bezel. However, I'm projecting on a white wall at the moment and the light border doesn't bother me so I may just continue to live with it.


----------



## Mick Seymour

ernest787 said:


> Can anyone recommend glasses that will work with the P1. I've been looking on Amazon and found a few but not really sure if there is a big difference between them.


The are reported to work quite well: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ELEPHAS-Re...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
I'm not sure how well they fit over existing glasses though.


----------



## RJ87

Thanks Mick! I didn’t realize it was common. My last setup had a large bezel so I never saw it. I’ll buy felt tape or maybe rubber foam to help absorb some of it.


----------



## RobinsonCrusoe

RJ87 said:


> Thanks Mick! I didn’t realize it was common. My last setup had a large bezel so I never saw it. I’ll buy felt tape or maybe rubber foam to help absorb some of it.


Hi RJ87, your light spill ist really small. I own the same screen and mine is a bit larger, especially at the top. Looks totally ok to me, given the chips character.


----------



## freejak13

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Hello -- in 8-bit or 10-bit HDR should work. The 4:2:2 issue we identified thus far is Apple TV 4K. I will check Shield.
> 
> What content or service are you using on Shield?


Optoma Dude. Been a while since we heard back from you. What's the situation with the input lag? Weren't we due for an update?


----------



## zee.dh

Hello. I'm looking into the XPro version of this projector. Does anyone know how this projector stacks up against the Dell S718QL? I noticed the Lumens on the Optoma are 3500, and the Dell one is 5000. However, the Dell one is ANSI Lumens. What is the difference and which would be brighter? Thank you in advance


----------



## eurovtec

zee.dh said:


> Hello. I'm looking into the XPro version of this projector. Does anyone know how this projector stacks up against the Dell S718QL? I noticed the Lumens on the Optoma are 3500, and the Dell one is 5000. However, the Dell one is ANSI Lumens. What is the difference and which would be brighter? Thank you in advance


Dell has 3 HDMI port, 2 is HDMI 1.4 and 1x is HDMI2.0.
It has lower contrast than Optoma.
It cost more than Optoma.


----------



## saneace

freejak13 said:


> Optoma Dude. Been a while since we heard back from you. What's the situation with the input lag? Weren't we due for an update?


+1, the input lag is downright terrible, but the family and I are otherwise very pleased with this PJ many months later. -1 for furniture options though. I had to build one for it.


----------



## Coltt

Built this set up from scratch for the P1. It was a blank wall before. Awesome projector but this lag needs to be addressed
imgur.com/gallery/bw7RsVP


----------



## freejak13

Coltt said:


> Built this set up from scratch for the P1. It was a blank wall before. Awesome projector but this lag needs to be addressed
> imgur.com/gallery/bw7RsVP


Sweet setup!


----------



## FiveMillionWays

RJ87 said:


> New to posting here but have been following this forum for a long time! I recently bought the Optoma P1 and love the image. Despite multiple adjustments, I can’t remove the white border that surrounds the image and it’s driving me nuts! 🙂 Attached is an image of what I’m experiencing. Does anyone have any suggestions on getting rid of the white border? Unfortunately Optoma support wasn’t much help on this. If it helps- I have a 100in Elite Screens Aeon CLR screen which has a very thin bezel.
> 
> Do all UST projectors have a white border or is it unique to this projector? Not sure what the purpose of this is?
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks



Why not put some LED's around the screen and add a little color so its not much of an issue?


----------



## saneace

Pro tip for anyone out there considering a UST (whether it is the P1 or otherwise): Think carefully about what your game plan is if you have a young child. We were/are new parents. When I got this PJ our son was not even crawling yet, and I was still blissfully unaware of what I was in for. As soon as he became mobile, it was all out war trying to keep him away from the PJ (has to be close to ground). Managed to fence him out of it without dramatically impacting my viewing angles, but I expect hostilities will resume as soon as he is big enough to either knock over or scale the fence I have around it.


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

Everyone -- WE apologize for the delay. We have R&D resources in the Wuhan Region and this impacted resources "severely. Unfortunately, Covid-19's impact reaches far and wide.

We have moved to the release test phase for the new FW. This will last a few weeks. If testing proceeds as expected, we will release the FW in the second half of May into early June.

Some of the issues that will be addressed and or improved:

- 1080p 60Hz and 1080p 120Hz input Lag improvement.
- 4K UHD Input Lag improvement. 
- Gaming Mode Toggle -- Will disable SmartFIT and PureMotion when enabled for optimal performance.
- Dim image when HDR is enabled and the content is 4K UHD HDR, 4K UHD "Non-HDR" or "SDR". This occurs with some MP4 and .TS files.
- 4:2:2 8-bit issue with 4:2:2 and 4:4:4 enabled on the source device.
- Continued improvement of the Image Flickering
- Improve UI for Focus Function

I will provide a full list in the near future.

Questions -- feel free to let me know.


----------



## J Bone

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Everyone -- WE apologize for the delay. We have R&D resources in the Wuhan Region and this impacted resources "severely. Unfortunately, Covid-19's impact reaches far and wide.
> 
> We have moved to the release test phase for the new FW. This will last a few weeks. If testing proceeds as expected, we will release the FW in the second half of May into early June.
> 
> Some of the issues that will be addressed and or improved:
> 
> - 1080p 60Hz and 1080p 120Hz input Lag improvement.
> - 4K UHD Input Lag improvement.
> - Gaming Mode Toggle -- Will disable SmartFIT and PureMotion when enabled for optimal performance.
> - Dim image when HDR is enabled and the content is 4K UHD HDR, 4K UHD "Non-HDR" or "SDR". This occurs with some MP4 and .TS files.
> - 4:2:2 8-bit issue with 4:2:2 and 4:4:4 enabled on the source device.
> - Continued improvement of the Image Flickering
> - Improve UI for Focus Function
> 
> I will provide a full list in the near future.
> 
> Questions -- feel free to let me know.



Although the update isn’t expected for quite some time, I’m sure I can speak for many of us when I say thank you very much for your reply and keeping us included in the overall process. This does help alleviate some of the questions and doubts about what is to be addressed in the future. So thank you once again and any additional updates will be much appreciated.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

J Bone said:


> Although the update isn’t expected for quite some time, I’m sure I can speak for many of us when I say thank you very much for your reply and keeping us included in the overall process. This does help alleviate some of the questions and doubts about what is to be addressed in the future. So thank you once again and any additional updates will be much appreciated.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


No problem -- again, we apologize for the delay regarding the update. I will keep everyone posted now that things have settled. In terms of schedule, we had some uncertainty for a bit -- most of this is behind us now.


----------



## Kev1000000

Thanks Optoma PM Dude. Is there any chance remembering the picture mode during source switching can be implemented? After HDR is enabled/disabled on my Windows PC, the P1 always reverts to Cinema mode, rather than my Game mode I normally use.


----------



## jhbball2002

Random question here: considering the P1, but I have 2 cats. Is the lense exposed in a way where it could be damaged by a pet stepping on it? Obviously, a cover makes sense when the projector isn't in use, just thinking about the rare chance a cat steps on it while it's in use.


----------



## jhbball2002

saneace said:


> Pro tip for anyone out there considering a UST (whether it is the P1 or otherwise): Think carefully about what your game plan is if you have a young child. We were/are new parents. When I got this PJ our son was not even crawling yet, and I was still blissfully unaware of what I was in for. As soon as he became mobile, it was all out war trying to keep him away from the PJ (has to be close to ground). Managed to fence him out of it without dramatically impacting my viewing angles, but I expect hostilities will resume as soon as he is big enough to either knock over or scale the fence I have around it.


Haha, damn. This is close to my situation. Fairly small home - we have a 3 month old - considering the p1 as well. Regardless of the of the getting p1, seems like I'm going to have to fence off the rest of my HT equipment either way.


----------



## RobinsonCrusoe

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> - 4:2:2 8-bit issue with 4:2:2 and 4:4:4 enabled on the source device.


Thanks Optoma PM Dude. Very much appreciated.

Regarding the short image freezes when playing Dolby Vision titles on AppleTV4K:
Is this bug also in relation with the 4:2:2 / 4:4:4 bug? I know this bug can be bypassed when changing the hdmi port to 1.4 and back to 2.0 but a native fix would be great.


----------



## saneace

jhbball2002 said:


> Haha, damn. This is close to my situation. Fairly small home - we have a 3 month old - considering the P1 as well. Regardless of the of the getting p1, seems like I'm going to have to fence off the rest of my HT equipment either way.


Oh yes. You will need that fence faster than you think. Here is an example of how that is going to go (only missing jaws theme music): 




At this stage the little guy is walking (albeit not all that well yet), so him anywhere near that thing is just an invitation to stand up next to it and plop is little hands on the projector lens, or even worse still, attempt to stare down into the lens. There is a safety setting to help with that, but that is a last resort measure. Anyway, aggressive cable management was not enough in my case. It became very clear, very fast that we had to have a physical barrier b/c the PJ is a baby homing beacon.


----------



## saneace

jhbball2002 said:


> Random question here: considering the P1, but I have 2 cats. Is the lense exposed in a way where it could be damaged by a pet stepping on it? Obviously, a cover makes sense when the projector isn't in use, just thinking about the rare chance a cat steps on it while it's in use.


Short answer: Yes, it is exposed, and I expect the average cat paw could fit into the hood area where the lens is no problem. Tough one there. Our dogs never showed any interest in the PJ, but it is a fairly good sized box, and it does get warm. In my experience it is not uncommon for cats to enjoy sleeping on warm objects, and I would think that most cats could probably get over a fence or similar enclosure without much difficulty. Lens is more resilient than you might think, but repeated interactions between the cat and the PJ would worry me.


----------



## GodAtum

Hi all, is this the same as the Optoma UHZ65UST in the UK?

Can I mount this on the ceiling, as I need to fit 3 in a curved screen formation?

According to some tests, the input lag is 55ms which seems reasonable.


----------



## Mick Seymour

GodAtum said:


> Hi all, is this the same as the Optoma UHZ65UST in the UK?
> 
> Can I mount this on the ceiling, as I need to fit 3 in a curved screen formation?
> 
> According to some tests, the input lag is 55ms which seems reasonable.


 The UHZ65UST has a higher light output than the P1.

Optoma do not recommend ceiling mounting nor do they sell a mounting kit.

AFAIK, input lag is over 100ms but that is being worked on by the firmware engineers.


----------



## 3sprit

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> We have moved to the release test phase for the new FW. This will last a few weeks. If testing proceeds as expected, we will release the FW in the second half of May into early June.


 Dolby Vision? 🤔


----------



## krazykozak

3D dlp glasses question.

Grabbed these for the Optoma P1 
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07MGTFNCW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Anyone know why the 3d glasses shift from a green to red to yellow tint when displaying in 3D?
Driving this from a PC with PowerDVD - 3D works - just some wierd tint with these glasses.

Do I return and try something else?


Thanks!


----------



## FiveMillionWays

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Everyone -- WE apologize for the delay. We have R&D resources in the Wuhan Region and this impacted resources "severely. Unfortunately, Covid-19's impact reaches far and wide.
> 
> We have moved to the release test phase for the new FW. This will last a few weeks. If testing proceeds as expected, we will release the FW in the second half of May into early June.
> 
> Some of the issues that will be addressed and or improved:
> 
> - 1080p 60Hz and 1080p 120Hz input Lag improvement.
> - 4K UHD Input Lag improvement.
> - Gaming Mode Toggle -- Will disable SmartFIT and PureMotion when enabled for optimal performance.
> - Dim image when HDR is enabled and the content is 4K UHD HDR, 4K UHD "Non-HDR" or "SDR". This occurs with some MP4 and .TS files.
> - 4:2:2 8-bit issue with 4:2:2 and 4:4:4 enabled on the source device.
> - Continued improvement of the Image Flickering
> - Improve UI for Focus Function
> 
> I will provide a full list in the near future.
> 
> Questions -- feel free to let me know.




Great to hear as i am going to be buying in three weeks.


----------



## nonametofame

akm3 said:


> I've used the 3D from a Sony blu ray player. It took a little bit for the player to recognize the projector as a 3D capable source. But, once it did it worked beautifully with the same active glasses I used to use with my Benq w1070. The picture was fantastic (as long as the room was dark) in 3D.



The last and only projector I've owned was the BenQ w1070. I still have the glasses from that set, so I'm glad I saw your post.
How were the improvements going from that projector to this one?


----------



## Micke S

Coltt said:


> Built this set up from scratch for the P1. It was a blank wall before. Awesome projector but this lag needs to be addressed
> imgur.com/gallery/bw7RsVP


Nice setup! Which screen is that?


----------



## Micke S

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Everyone -- WE apologize for the delay. We have R&D resources in the Wuhan Region and this impacted resources "severely. Unfortunately, Covid-19's impact reaches far and wide.
> 
> We have moved to the release test phase for the new FW. This will last a few weeks. If testing proceeds as expected, we will release the FW in the second half of May into early June.
> 
> Some of the issues that will be addressed and or improved:
> 
> - 1080p 60Hz and 1080p 120Hz input Lag improvement.
> - 4K UHD Input Lag improvement.
> - Gaming Mode Toggle -- Will disable SmartFIT and PureMotion when enabled for optimal performance.
> - Dim image when HDR is enabled and the content is 4K UHD HDR, 4K UHD "Non-HDR" or "SDR". This occurs with some MP4 and .TS files.
> - 4:2:2 8-bit issue with 4:2:2 and 4:4:4 enabled on the source device.
> - Continued improvement of the Image Flickering
> - Improve UI for Focus Function
> 
> I will provide a full list in the near future.
> 
> Questions -- feel free to let me know.


I have an issue where the built-in speaker turns on after a few minutes, even if I have it both set to OFF and set to MUTE. I have to turn it on, then turn it off again for it to go away.
Any chance that is fixed in the new firmware?


----------



## krazykozak

Figured it out with the 3D Glasses. Posting here in case others also have a VR setup. 

My VR base stations were causing interference with the 3d glasses.
Unplug the Vive and glasses work properly.







krazykozak said:


> 3D dlp glasses question.
> 
> Grabbed these for the Optoma P1
> https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07MGTFNCW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> Anyone know why the 3d glasses shift from a green to red to yellow tint when displaying in 3D?
> Driving this from a PC with PowerDVD - 3D works - just some wierd tint with these glasses.
> 
> Do I return and try something else?
> 
> 
> Thanks!


----------



## eurovtec

krazykozak said:


> Figured it out with the 3D Glasses. Posting here in case others also have a VR setup.
> 
> My VR base stations were causing interference with the 3d glasses.
> Unplug the Vive and glasses work properly.


Getting my P1 2 days later.
So excited. 
Anyone hooks the Optoma to a HTPC? 
I would like to seek advice on the HDMI connection on the HTPC, AVR & P1.
For AVR to P1, I suppose HDMI will be using the HDMI arc.
For HTPC, my GPU has a HDMI connector. So I suppose just connect to another HDMI on the AVR? 

Thanks.


----------



## Mick Seymour

@eurovtec, Yes to both input questions.


----------



## eurovtec

Mick Seymour said:


> @eurovtec, Yes to both input questions.


Hi Seymour, Thanks for the confirmation! 

Hi everyone, 
Is everyone using the ALR screen? 
Anyone is using the wall cos I’m going to paint my wall grey. 
When the lockdown ceases, will buy the screen paint from a company called Goocentral. 
Anyone using this type of wall paint?


----------



## Kev1000000

eurovtec said:


> Hi Seymour, Thanks for the confirmation!
> 
> Hi everyone,
> Is everyone using the ALR screen?
> Anyone is using the wall cos I’m going to paint my wall grey.
> When the lockdown ceases, will buy the screen paint from a company called Goocentral.
> Anyone using this type of wall paint?


I don't recommend using a wall with the P1 (or any UST). UST's are super sensitive to even the most minor variations in the projection surface. Even if you think your wall is super flat, it's not, and you'll likely see warping in the image when projected on to a bare wall.


----------



## Tenari

eurovtec said:


> Hi Seymour, Thanks for the confirmation!
> 
> Hi everyone,
> Is everyone using the ALR screen?
> Anyone is using the wall cos I’m going to paint my wall grey.
> When the lockdown ceases, will buy the screen paint from a company called Goocentral.
> Anyone using this type of wall paint?



I am using the elite screens CLR AR120H-CLR. Happy so far


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Tenari

Anyone had any luck with IP control? Projector doesn’t seem to accept PJLink and the IR sensor is under fabric which makes it difficult for clip-on IR emitters to penetrate. No serial port on back.

My Control4 dealer rigged up the power on/off using IFTTT which is not super reliable, and I’ve setup integration with Google Home and Amazon Alexa — but those both seem to fail whenever IFTTT does given they likely use the same API.

(I’m set to “smarthome” in my eco settings)

I’ve also used my harmony remote with success, so if worse comes to worst I’ll likely just get an IR blaster, but I was really hoping for something better given that 100% of my setup otherwise is IP controlled.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bbyrneozarch

I just ordered this projector and should receive it on Monday. This will be my first projector and wanted to know if someone can share a link to the preferred settings for 4k HDR and Gaming. I’ll be setting this up with a 120” Elite UST Screen. Thanks in advance for the help.


----------



## Rpmartinez

Tenari said:


> Anyone had any luck with IP control? Projector doesn’t seem to accept PJLink and the IR sensor is under fabric which makes it difficult for clip-on IR emitters to penetrate. No serial port on back.
> 
> My Control4 dealer rigged up the power on/off using IFTTT which is not super reliable, and I’ve setup integration with Google Home and Amazon Alexa — but those both seem to fail whenever IFTTT does given they likely use the same API.
> 
> (I’m set to “smarthome” in my eco settings)
> 
> I’ve also used my harmony remote with success, so if worse comes to worst I’ll likely just get an IR blaster, but I was really hoping for something better given that 100% of my setup otherwise is IP controlled.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hey, I don't have this projector..yet.

I see that you use Control 4, but have you tried controlling it with Roomie remote?
It's an iOS based home automation app and that might be able to control it thru IP.


----------



## Tenari

bbyrneozarch said:


> I just ordered this projector and should receive it on Monday. This will be my first projector and wanted to know if someone can share a link to the preferred settings for 4k HDR and Gaming. I’ll be setting this up with a 120” Elite UST Screen. Thanks in advance for the help.



Go to post 1799


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Tenari

Rpmartinez said:


> Hey, I don't have this projector..yet.
> 
> I see that you use Control 4, but have you tried controlling it with Roomie remote?
> It's an iOS based home automation app and that might be able to control it thru IP.



No. Haven’t tried it, but it’s not on the HCL


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Rpmartinez

Tenari said:


> No. Haven’t tried it, but it’s not on the HCL
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


On their forums, their tech support said this about Optoma Projectors: "I believe in support tickets users have many times used the Epson PJ-Link codeset for this without issue. Should be the same."

So that might work out.


----------



## Liverpudlian

Hi guys, just want to check hows the input lag for P1 for gaming?


----------



## diggumsmax

Kev1000000 said:


> Thanks Optoma PM Dude. Is there any chance remembering the picture mode during source switching can be implemented? After HDR is enabled/disabled on my Windows PC, the P1 always reverts to Cinema mode, rather than my Game mode I normally use.


This is a minor issue I have. Always reverts to cinama. I prefer HDR Sim and have tweaked the settings. Odd thing is sometimes it will stay in HDR Sim while other times it will revert to cinama. Small issue but always have to check Everytime I turn on the PJ. Only pattern I e noticed is that it seems to stick on HDR Sim if I turn off for an hour or two but if it's been off for a day it almost always reverts back to Cinema. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Fedder

Liverpudlian said:


> Hi guys, just want to check hows the input lag for P1 for gaming?


Its roughly 55ms only when using a 4k source. If using 1080p its 100+ ms. As Optoma Dude mention earlier they are working on a firmware update to fix the input lag issues, but havent been able to do as much as they could have because of Corona causing trouble everywhere.


----------



## Mikkle

Fedder said:


> Its roughly 55ms only when using a 4k source. If using 1080p its 100+ ms. As Optoma Dude mention earlier they are working on a firmware update to fix the input lag issues, but havent been able to do as much as they could have because of Corona causing trouble everywhere.


Just to be clear: 55 ms is the lag "on paper," as quoted in the official specs. In practice however, the lag is much higher than that, even when using a 4K source. It's been measured at 120+ ms (at 4K, with smartfit and puremotion disabled), a far cry from the promised 55 ms. That is consistent with users' actual experience, including my own.

The firmware fix that Optoma Dude has been talking about for months is basically only supposed to give us what we were sold in the first place. Don't get me wrong, I love the projector. It throws a fantastic picture with brilliant color, and it's whisper quiet. But the input lag issue -- how it has been marketed, and then neglected -- has left a pretty sour taste in my mouth.


----------



## eurovtec

Kev1000000 said:


> I don't recommend using a wall with the P1 (or any UST). UST's are super sensitive to even the most minor variations in the projection surface. Even if you think your wall is super flat, it's not, and you'll likely see warping in the image when projected on to a bare wall.


I’ll try on the wall and see how it goes first. 
Thanks for the heads up on the pj sensitivity.
Personally I want to change the look of having a “tv screen” on the wall. 
Previously i heard from a vendor selling wemax projector that they coming out with a borderless ALR screen.


----------



## eurovtec

Mikkle said:


> Just to be clear: 55 ms is the lag "on paper," as quoted in the official specs. In practice however, the lag is much higher than that, even when using a 4K source. It's been measured at 120+ ms (at 4K, with smartfit and puremotion disabled), a far cry from the promised 55 ms. That is consistent with users' actual experience, including my own.
> 
> The firmware fix that Optoma Dude has been talking about for months is basically only supposed to give us what we were sold in the first place. Don't get me wrong, I love the projector. It throws a fantastic picture with brilliant color, and it's whisper quiet. But the input lag issue -- how it has been marketed, and then neglected -- has left a pretty sour taste in my mouth.


I’m chanced upon this on YouTube when i was doing marketing research on P1.
Not sure how bad is the lag in gaming.
However, if Optoma is able to improve on the lag, it will be the best and shows great after sales support.


----------



## diggumsmax

eurovtec said:


> I’ll try on the wall and see how it goes first.
> 
> Thanks for the heads up on the pj sensitivity.
> 
> Personally I want to change the look of having a “tv screen” on the wall.
> 
> Previously i heard from a vendor selling wemax projector that they coming out with a borderless ALR screen.


Just another opinion bit unless you've probably got professional grade tools to sand the wall down you will any imperfection on your wall that you never knew existed.

I had a 11 year olds Stewart Firehawk 110 screen before getting my Grandview. I immediately noticed minor imperfections I. The top of the screen that I had never noticed in 11 years and three different PJs.

Getting a look for yourself is best, it really will make you notice how much it makes UST looks. Even though my Firehawk is 11 years old it's still a great screen due to maintenance but it was before UST. My ceiling looked like a strobe light. I do have white ceilings that I can't paint and a bright colored room which is why I made the change in the first place. Just my opinion. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Liverpudlian

eurovtec said:


> I’ll try on the wall and see how it goes first.
> Thanks for the heads up on the pj sensitivity.
> Personally I want to change the look of having a “tv screen” on the wall.
> Previously i heard from a vendor selling wemax projector that they coming out with a borderless ALR screen.


Damm, So far most of the UST projectors that i am seeing seems to have an input lag issue. Was looking at the Wemax A300 but seems to have the same issue. The one that looks the best is the LG but price is way too high.

Any other models you guys would recommend?

I would prefer UST but my setup allows for rear mount as well. Any models of rear mount you guys would recommend as well?

Primarily using for Netflix and gaming and streaming services.

Cheers!


----------



## bennutt

bbyrneozarch said:


> I just ordered this projector and should receive it on Monday. This will be my first projector and wanted to know if someone can share a link to the preferred settings for 4k HDR and Gaming. I’ll be setting this up with a 120” Elite UST Screen. Thanks in advance for the help.



I have been watching this thread waiting to hear the gaming lag has been fixed, that is the only deal breaker for me. Did I miss that?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Mick Seymour

@bennutt No, not fixed yet. Hopefully in firmware C14 when it arrives.


----------



## g4s

Liverpudlian said:


> Damm, So far most of the UST projectors that i am seeing seems to have an input lag issue. Was looking at the Wemax A300 but seems to have the same issue. The one that looks the best is the LG but price is way too high.
> 
> Any other models you guys would recommend?
> 
> I would prefer UST but my setup allows for rear mount as well. Any models of rear mount you guys would recommend as well?
> 
> Primarily using for Netflix and gaming and streaming services.
> 
> Cheers!


I saw a review on the ChiQ A5U. 48ms with 1080p, 65ms with 2160p.


----------



## Jruc03

Thinking about possibly picking one of these up. The cost of a special screen kinda of puts me off though. Is anyone using this in a light controlled batcave with an 1.0 gain screen? I have the specialty Monoprice 120" with built in masking so i'm hesitant to give it up (I guess they don't even sell it anymore) because its been great for contrast when watching any content with black bars on the screen. It seemed like most of the people were complaining when seeing some light escape their tiny bordered screens which really isn't a concern with my screen as it has probably 4" felt black borders on all sides.


----------



## diggumsmax

Epson LS500. Others have said it's not really UST due to throw distance, has bulb "bulge", for lack of a better tern and uses lasers for light source" and the bottom if the image being higher than the P1, even If you are lucky and actually get P1 that is on the lower end of the offset radio. It is using three LCD chips It's not DLPso to my knowledge is this is the first UST LCD display.

Epson is claiming 19 milliseconds lag. From by understanding DLP has always had worse lag the. LCD but I could just as easily be wrong.

My other issue is they are trying to sell it as a bundle meaning you get a screen with the projector. It is an ALR screen but I can't find any documentation as to who is making it. I'm sure it's a reseller in China but I would prefer to buy the projector and screen separately unless there is just a good deal that's too hard to resist. It also doesn't have any vertical lens shift. I think you can move it about a half an inch to the left or right but it is very limited horizontal lens shift. 

https://www.projectorcentral.com/CEDIA-2019-ProjectorCentral-Show-Report.htm

Regarding the borders, 4 in might be enough. But honestly I personally think the picture looks much better on a ALR screen. If you do decide to pull the trigger then you can always make that decision later regarding getting an ALR screen. It really is night and day, even in a bat like Haven environment. unless you're selling is a blacker house velvet in it I have a feeling you're going to get some light bouncing off the ceiling.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Liverpudlian

diggumsmax said:


> Epson LS500. Others have said it's not really UST due to throw distance, has bulb "bulge", for lack of a better tern and uses lasers for light source" and the bottom if the image being higher than the P1, even If you are lucky and actually get P1 that is on the lower end of the offset radio. It is using three LCD chips It's not DLPso to my knowledge is this is the first UST LCD display.
> 
> Epson is claiming 19 milliseconds lag. From by understanding DLP has always had worse lag the. LCD but I could just as easily be wrong.
> 
> My other issue is they are trying to sell it as a bundle meaning you get a screen with the projector. It is an ALR screen but I can't find any documentation as to who is making it. I'm sure it's a reseller in China but I would prefer to buy the projector and screen separately unless there is just a good deal that's too hard to resist. It also doesn't have any vertical lens shift. I think you can move it about a half an inch to the left or right but it is very limited horizontal lens shift.
> 
> Regarding the borders, 4 in might be enough. But honestly I personally think the picture looks much better on a ALR screen. If you do decide to pull the trigger then you can always make that decision later regarding getting an ALR screen. It really is night and day, even in a bat like Haven environment. unless you're selling is a blacker house velvet in it I have a feeling you're going to get some light bouncing off the ceiling.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk



Coincidentally, this was one of the models i was looking at. Thanks man!


----------



## legnaz

Is it normal for the power light to blink red when the projector is off? Also I have made sure the screen is completely flat but the top right corner is blurry and cant get it into focus unless I make the bottom portion blurry. Any fixes? I also need help powering off with a single press of the button for my logitech remote. Oh yeah, what do you guys have set for brightness and contrast? I have mine at -3 brightness and +3 contrast. Thanks.


----------



## J Bone

legnaz said:


> Is it normal for the power light to blink red when the projector is off? Also I have made sure the screen is completely flat but the top right corner is blurry and cant get it into focus unless I make the bottom portion blurry. Any fixes? I also need help powering off with a single press of the button for my logitech remote. Oh yeah, what do you guys have set for brightness and contrast? I have mine at -3 brightness and +3 contrast. Thanks.



I have similar issues but they just seem so minuscule at this point. The focus is a bit off in the top right hand corner but it is completely unnoticeable from my usage as it mainly is used for movies and television shows. Only when I switch to my HTPC and navigate a web browser is it noticeable. I use the harmony hub elite remote and the software allows you to correct buttons and signals using their software. You can correct the power off signal by adding a pause and extra press relay for the power button.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## legnaz

J Bone said:


> legnaz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is it normal for the power light to blink red when the projector is off? Also I have made sure the screen is completely flat but the top right corner is blurry and cant get it into focus unless I make the bottom portion blurry. Any fixes? I also need help powering off with a single press of the button for my logitech remote. Oh yeah, what do you guys have set for brightness and contrast? I have mine at -3 brightness and +3 contrast. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have similar issues but they just seem so minuscule at this point. The focus is a bit off in the top right hand corner but it is completely unnoticeable from my usage as it mainly is used for movies and television shows. Only when I switch to my HTPC and navigate a web browser is it noticeable. I use the harmony hub elite remote and the software allows you to correct buttons and signals using their software. You can correct the power off signal by adding a pause and extra press relay for the power button.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Thanks. I have the harmony ultimate one, but cant add a delay after it has powered off. The settings on the remote setup wont allow it. I have it set as power off projector, power off receiver, and power off device. Wont let me add another input because it shows device as powered off. The focus doesnt bother me when watching tv/movies, but I have a PC connected and thats when it bugs me.


----------



## diggumsmax

legnaz said:


> Is it normal for the power light to blink red when the projector is off? Also I have made sure the screen is completely flat but the top right corner is blurry and cant get it into focus unless I make the bottom portion blurry. Any fixes? I also need help powering off with a single press of the button for my logitech remote. Oh yeah, what do you guys have set for brightness and contrast? I have mine at -3 brightness and +3 contrast. Thanks.


That's pretty much what I have set mine too for the HDR Sim setting. I wasn't a fan of pure motion at first but it's grown on me. I've also noticed that the color temperature looks better depending on the content I'm watching. I tend to leave it on warm but I go all the way to cool or whatever the bottom option is when watching regular TV and YouTube. Depends on the content though.

I have the Harmony hub and I was able to program it to shut it off and on properly. You have to go into the actual device settings and change the power options for the P1. It's not in activities. I also had to teach it at command it already knew. I miss the days before Logitech bought Harmony. They had dedicated pc software and you could program it to do anything. I mostly control it through home assistant via Alexa. Off topic but If you're in the home automation and have a raspberry pi than I highly recommend looking it up. 

For Logitech I have it setup as two different buttons. I created one for power off. I taught the hub a new command and named it power off but it was just the power button.









Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Coltt

freejak13 said:


> Sweet setup!


It's a 100" Elunevision Aurora 8K ALR for UST projectors
0.8 Gain


----------



## Jruc03

diggumsmax said:


> Epson LS500. Others have said it's not really UST due to throw distance, has bulb "bulge", for lack of a better tern and uses lasers for light source" and the bottom if the image being higher than the P1, even If you are lucky and actually get P1 that is on the lower end of the offset radio. It is using three LCD chips It's not DLPso to my knowledge is this is the first UST LCD display.
> 
> Epson is claiming 19 milliseconds lag. From by understanding DLP has always had worse lag the. LCD but I could just as easily be wrong.
> 
> My other issue is they are trying to sell it as a bundle meaning you get a screen with the projector. It is an ALR screen but I can't find any documentation as to who is making it. I'm sure it's a reseller in China but I would prefer to buy the projector and screen separately unless there is just a good deal that's too hard to resist. It also doesn't have any vertical lens shift. I think you can move it about a half an inch to the left or right but it is very limited horizontal lens shift.
> 
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/CEDIA-2019-ProjectorCentral-Show-Report.htm
> 
> Regarding the borders, 4 in might be enough. But honestly I personally think the picture looks much better on a ALR screen. If you do decide to pull the trigger then you can always make that decision later regarding getting an ALR screen. It really is night and day, even in a bat like Haven environment. unless you're selling is a blacker house velvet in it I have a feeling you're going to get some light bouncing off the ceiling.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Yeah it seems similar besides the lcd versus dlp. Sucks they don't sell it without the screen. Gaming isn't huge concern as i've moved over to PC a while ago and I don't play much on the projector anymore due to how slow it all feels versus a 144hz refresh rate monitor. I think i'd be okay with the optoma as I measured last night and its a about 6" down from the ceiling of solid black velvet around the screen. I may get some light on the ceiling but it is flat black as well and if it was too distracting in the end I could just buy the velvet fabric and cover the ceiling in it about 1-2 ft out from the wall. 

The main issue I hate about the Optoma is how low you have to have it for a 120" screen as I would have to replace my low profile entertainment stand below the screen and figure out how to use my center channel speaker below it. Not impossible but I would probably just have to make my own stand for that area. I wouldn't mind testing one out but most retailers that sell it have a 10-15% restock fee once you open the box.


----------



## eurovtec

Jruc03 said:


> Yeah it seems similar besides the lcd versus dlp. Sucks they don't sell it without the screen. Gaming isn't huge concern as i've moved over to PC a while ago and I don't play much on the projector anymore due to how slow it all feels versus a 144hz refresh rate monitor. I think i'd be okay with the optoma as I measured last night and its a about 6" down from the ceiling of solid black velvet around the screen. I may get some light on the ceiling but it is flat black as well and if it was too distracting in the end I could just buy the velvet fabric and cover the ceiling in it about 1-2 ft out from the wall.
> 
> The main issue I hate about the Optoma is how low you have to have it for a 120" screen as I would have to replace my low profile entertainment stand below the screen and figure out how to use my center channel speaker below it. Not impossible but I would probably just have to make my own stand for that area. I wouldn't mind testing one out but most retailers that sell it have a 10-15% restock fee once you open the box.


* Anyone using HTPC with KODI to play videos thru your P1?*

Find that the movies are washed out when played thru Kodi. 
Haven’t messed with P1 settings yet. 
Found that win8 don’t support HDR and upgraded to win10 for HDR support.
Enabled the HDR in display settings.
Changed the video settings to use Nvidia instead of using the player setting. 
Left all Nvidia settings at default.
However, videos are still washed out.
Also found that P1’s display mode HDR is grayed out.

The ONLY difference the video improved A LOT is when i set the output Color format from RGB to YCbCr422 & 12bit Color.
Dynamic range is fixed at Limited. 

P1 display mode HDR is enabled and rest of the modes are all grayed out.


Anyone can share your HTPC Video setting?


----------



## RobinsonCrusoe

legnaz said:


> Is it normal for the power light to blink red when the projector is off? Oh yeah, what do you guys have set for brightness and contrast? I have mine at -3 brightness and +3 contrast. Thanks.


The blinking red light is visible when Standby (Smart Home) is enabled. See the manual page 61 for details.

The brightness settings depend on the screen your using is guess. Mine is a Elite Screen CLR 100. My calibrated setting for brightness is -6 on cinema mode and -8 on reference. Just feed your projector a black clip from youtube or a mp4 and lower the brightness until you don`t see a change anymore. It´s best to set this in the evening in a totally dark room.

Sad thing for me is, i got to get the pj checked after just 3 months because the color wheel started buzzing. It started a few days ago and is quite annoying.


----------



## diggumsmax

Micke S said:


> I have an issue where the built-in speaker turns on after a few minutes, even if I have it both set to OFF and set to MUTE. I have to turn it on, then turn it off again for it to go away.
> Any chance that is fixed in the new firmware?


I have this issue as well. Minor annoyance but I get the same behavior. It's similar to reverting to Cinema mode if it's been off for a while. I've got everything setup for HDR Sim. This is the preset I use with some minor changes to some of the deault settings this PJ preset on non HDR material. It seems like the setting sticks if I turn the PJ on and off in a few hours but if the PJ is off for roughly 24+ hours it reverts back to Cinema. These are minor issues but my OCD like behavior makes me check these settings right when I turn the PJ on.


----------



## diggumsmax

eurovtec said:


> * Anyone using HTPC with KODI to play videos thru your P1?*
> 
> Find that the movies are washed out when played thru Kodi.
> Haven’t messed with P1 settings yet.
> Found that win8 don’t support HDR and upgraded to win10 for HDR support.
> Enabled the HDR in display settings.
> Changed the video settings to use Nvidia instead of using the player setting.
> Left all Nvidia settings at default.
> However, videos are still washed out.
> Also found that P1’s display mode HDR is grayed out.
> 
> The ONLY difference the video improved A LOT is when i set the output Color format from RGB to YCbCr422 & 12bit Color.
> Dynamic range is fixed at Limited.
> 
> P1 display mode HDR is enabled and rest of the modes are all grayed out.
> 
> 
> Anyone can share your HTPC Video setting?


See this post for Optoma dude response. It's a know issue and there is a firmware update that should resolve this issue but COVID has pushed back the update. 

Do you have the Nvidia Shiled TV 2019 (Tube Modle) or the PRO? I had some issues with the PRO, I ended up waiting a month after returning the tube and everything has worked flawlessly regarding 4k/HDR. I don't think this is the hardware and that a firmware update from Nvidia fixed the issue. The issue is the P1, not the SHIELD. 

The NVIDIA TV model can not run 64-bit apps so I have the 64-bit version of Kodi installed by side loading it. My SHIELD setting are out of the box and it works outside some audio changes but zero video changes. Right now, I've turned on developer options and changed the RGB setting, not sure if this is the same setting you are talking about. Here are my Kodi Settings. If you are getting HDR in the P1 settings and everything nit's grayed out except USER then your are getting HDR. I believe his has happened to other users with Apple TV and the workaround is to set the HDMI port settings to 1.4, then back to 2.0 so that is worth a shot. 

Well, after typing that all out I realize I misread it and your are using Windows 10 HTPC. Is it plugged directly into the P1? i don't believe Win 10 will allow you to turn on HDR unless it can detect that the display can handle it but I could be wrong. By NVIDIA settings, do you mean video card settings? Also, is the NVIDIA HDCP 4.2? You may want to go into settings > System > Logging in Kodi and enable it to it's highest level, reproduce issue, then post Kodi forums. They are very helpful but first thing they are going to want is a log. You can disabled logging once you have reproduced the issue.The Nvidia forums are very responsive as also based off past experiences.


----------



## eurovtec

diggumsmax said:


> See this post for Optoma dude response. It's a know issue and there is a firmware update that should resolve this issue but COVID has pushed back the update.
> 
> Do you have the Nvidia Shiled TV 2019 (Tube Modle) or the PRO? I had some issues with the PRO, I ended up waiting a month after returning the tube and everything has worked flawlessly regarding 4k/HDR. I don't think this is the hardware and that a firmware update from Nvidia fixed the issue. The issue is the P1, not the SHIELD.
> 
> The NVIDIA TV model can not run 64-bit apps so I have the 64-bit version of Kodi installed by side loading it. My SHIELD setting are out of the box and it works outside some audio changes but zero video changes. Right now, I've turned on developer options and changed the RGB setting, not sure if this is the same setting you are talking about. Here are my Kodi Settings. If you are getting HDR in the P1 settings and everything nit's grayed out except USER then your are getting HDR. I believe his has happened to other users with Apple TV and the workaround is to set the HDMI port settings to 1.4, then back to 2.0 so that is worth a shot.
> 
> Well, after typing that all out I realize I misread it and your are using Windows 10 HTPC. Is it plugged directly into the P1? i don't believe Win 10 will allow you to turn on HDR unless it can detect that the display can handle it but I could be wrong. By NVIDIA settings, do you mean video card settings? Also, is the NVIDIA HDCP 4.2? You may want to go into settings > System > Logging in Kodi and enable it to it's highest level, reproduce issue, then post Kodi forums. They are very helpful but first thing they are going to want is a log. You can disabled logging once you have reproduced the issue.The Nvidia forums are very responsive as also based off past experiences.


My HTPC has a standalone GPU Nvidia GTX1650. 
*Video connection*
GPU HDMI to Denon AVR Media player HDMI
Denon AVR HDMI arc to P1 HDMI arc.

*Windows Display setting*


Spoiler

















Spoiler















*Nvidia setting, all default except I change the output Color format and Color depth*


Spoiler

















Spoiler

















Spoiler

















Spoiler















Also I observed that if i choose the Output Color depth to be 8bit, PJ will not detect HDR.
If I changed to 12bit, some scenes of black will look bit weird.
But when i go to the input source page on the projector i see the below. 
PJ shows 8bit 4.2.2 *BUT* my Nvidia is 10bit. Unless Kodi somehow can only output 8bit and thus that’s why?


Spoiler















*Playing Kodi video*


Spoiler















*Kodi Settings Comparison Yours & mine*
Running win kodi version Leia 18.6.

Display setting
I cannot find the refresh rate 59.94hz. 
All others same.

Video setting
My adjust display refresh rate is “On start”.
Render method is DXVA.
Allow hardware acceleration is DXVA2.


My P1 settings are at default. Haven’t played with them yet.


----------



## eurovtec

*Nvidia digital Vibrance setting in Nvidia deskstop Color setting*
Not sure if anyone observe this on the blacks of some scenes.

Default digital vibrance at 50%.
One of the scene from Avengers endgame. 
I’ve circled yellow on Rocket’s head and body.


Spoiler















Digital vibrance at 51%.


Spoiler















Digital vibrance at 50%


Spoiler















Digital vibrance at 51%


Spoiler


----------



## diggumsmax

The 59.xxx settings only shows up in expert mode. If you have expert mode on then it might just not be a setting for the PC app. this is shockingly similar to what I got with the shield tube 2019. I had to set to 12 bit in shield settings to get 4.2.2 bit HDR. 

I'm sure you've already tried but what happens when you hook the home theater PC directly into the P1 and taking ARC out of the equation? I waited about 3 weeks after returning the shield tube and added an audio extractor as my receiver doesn't support ARC so I could get Dolby true HD and DTS-MA. I have had zero issues since then but I'm pretty sure Nvidia came out with an update. I don't see how adding an audio extractor into the mix would fix the issue. I believe ARC is limited to Dolby digital plus but I could be wrong as I don't have an ARC receiver. 

Here is the post on Nvidia forums. I know it's about the shield but the behavior you are seeing is very similar to what I was getting. I also imagine that all your video card drivers are up to date but it wouldn't hurt checking their website to see if there are any updates drivers. 

https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforc...-on-shield-tv-non-pro-on-span-classhighlight/



Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Mikkle

@eurovtec Kodi doesn't support HDR. You need to use a different video renderer, or a custom Kodi build with HDR support.

My main source is an HTPC with an Nvidia GPU. I don't have a ton of HDR content but it looks fantastic. I'll dig up my settings and post them here.


----------



## Mikkle

Fandango's "Kodi HDR Edition" build automatically turns HDR on and off based on content.

You can download it here: https://github.com/fandangos/Kodi-HDR-Edition/releases. Instructions are located here: https://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php?tid=345566

Note that the last release is a couple of months old now, and the project is no longer being developed. However it's worked well enough for me, and will tide me over until HDR support is officially added to Kodi.

Here are the color settings you should use:

Windows HD Color settings (search for it in the Start menu)
Play HDR games and apps: Off (yes, off)​

NVIDIA Control Panel
Display
Change resolution
1. Display: Marantz AVR​2. Resolution: 4k x 2k, 3840 x 2160 (native), 60 Hz​3. Use NVIDIA color settings
Desktop color depth: Highest (32-bit)​Output color depth: 12 bpc​Output color format: YCbCr420​Output dynamic range: Limited​Adjust desktop color settings
All defaults (Marantz AVR, Other applications control color settings, Vibrance at 50%, Hue at 0 deg.)​Video
Adjust video color settings
All defaults​Adjust video image settings
All defaults​


----------



## eurovtec

diggumsmax said:


> The 59.xxx settings only shows up in expert mode. If you have expert mode on then it might just not be a setting for the PC app. this is shockingly similar to what I got with the shield tube 2019. I had to set to 12 bit in shield settings to get 4.2.2 bit HDR.
> 
> I'm sure you've already tried but what happens when you hook the home theater PC directly into the P1 and taking ARC out of the equation? I waited about 3 weeks after returning the shield tube and added an audio extractor as my receiver doesn't support ARC so I could get Dolby true HD and DTS-MA. I have had zero issues since then but I'm pretty sure Nvidia came out with an update. I don't see how adding an audio extractor into the mix would fix the issue. I believe ARC is limited to Dolby digital plus but I could be wrong as I don't have an ARC receiver.
> 
> Here is the post on Nvidia forums. I know it's about the shield but the behavior you are seeing is very similar to what I was getting. I also imagine that all your video card drivers are up to date but it wouldn't hurt checking their website to see if there are any updates drivers.
> 
> https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforc...-on-shield-tv-non-pro-on-span-classhighlight/
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


My GPU Driver is up to date.

*GPU HDMI Direct to P1 HDMI2*
Windows auto set resolution to 4096X2160 freq at 24hz. Later change to 60hz.
Later I changed my resolution to 3840 as previous test was at that resolution. 


Spoiler















*P1 input source*
Shows RGB, 12 bit. HDR. However when playing movies, picture looks flat. Dunno why.


Spoiler














Change Output Color format to YCbCr to 422 & picture looks better. Dunno why.

*Conclusion of direct connection of HTPC to P1*
It looks like the weird shades of black in dark scenes are much lesser if I direct connector to P1.
Previously when i set YCbCr 4:2:2 to 12bit, the weird blacks in dark scenes are very obvious.
With direct connection and YCbCr to 12bit, the weird blacks are very less noticeable.
But using the digital vibrance to 51%, I’m able to counter this weird blacks.
Other than the above, I can’t see any difference.

*Brightness of GPU vs Brightness of P1 *
Before adjustment of brightness/contrast


Spoiler















Adjust brightNess Of P1
Seems like overall pic goes bright.


Spoiler















Revert back brightness of P1 & Adjust brightness of GPU
Details comes out from the Ironman suit.


Spoiler















*Conclusion of brightness/contrast adjustment of GPU vs P1*
It seems like GPU brightness and contrast adjustment is better than adjusting on the P1.
However, the question lies in should we calibrate the P1 first, followed by fine adjustment of the GPU?

I randomly play YouTube video on calibrating the brightness and contrast.





Then I adjust my brightness/contrast of my GPU of the beginning scene of Avengers endgame.


Spoiler

















Spoiler

















Spoiler

















Spoiler















I’m using the Avengers endgame scenes to calibrate the brightness and contrast. 
Does anyone knows any good shows with scenes that are good for calibration?


----------



## eurovtec

Mikkle said:


> Fandango's "Kodi HDR Edition" build automatically turns HDR on and off based on content.
> 
> You can download it here: https://github.com/fandangos/Kodi-HDR-Edition/releases. Instructions are located here: https://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php?tid=345566
> 
> Note that the last release is a couple of months old now, and the project is no longer being developed. However it's worked well enough for me, and will tide me over until HDR support is officially added to Kodi.
> 
> Here are the color settings you should use:
> 
> Windows HD Color settings (search for it in the Start menu)
> Play HDR games and apps: Off (yes, off)​
> 
> NVIDIA Control Panel
> Display
> Change resolution
> 1. Display: Marantz AVR​2. Resolution: 4k x 2k, 3840 x 2160 (native), 60 Hz​3. Use NVIDIA color settings
> Desktop color depth: Highest (32-bit)​Output color depth: 12 bpc​Output color format: YCbCr420​Output dynamic range: Limited​Adjust desktop color settings
> All defaults (Marantz AVR, Other applications control color settings, Vibrance at 50%, Hue at 0 deg.)​Video
> Adjust video color settings
> All defaults​Adjust video image settings
> All defaults​




Hi how do you connect your HTPC to your P1 projector? 
I think I need to find a standardization for it. 
I will try your windows HDR settings. 
I know of KODI doesn’t support HDR thus I thought for the display settings, I choose the option of using Nvidia to control the HDR. 
I’ll go read up on how to install the Kodi HDR fork. 
Thanks.​


----------



## Mikkle

eurovtec said:


> Hi how do you connect your HTPC to your P1 projector?
> I think I need to find a standardization for it.
> I will try your windows HDR settings.
> I know of KODI doesn’t support HDR thus I thought for the display settings, I choose the option of using Nvidia to control the HDR.
> I’ll go read up on how to install the Kodi HDR fork.
> Thanks.


Same as you, NVIDIA GPU HDMI output to AVR input (my AVR is Marantz, and I use Blu-Ray input, should make no difference.). Then AVR HDMI output to P1 HDMI ARC input.

Quick note, when you include very large pictures in a post, it's a good idea to wrap them in a spoiler tag. Otherwise these large pictures make your posts (and the thread) hard to follow. I'll post an example right below...

I just took a couple of pictures of Avengers Endgame at approximately the same timestamps as yours above so you can see what the picture should look like in Kodi with HDR working properly. Apologies for the crappy cell phone picture quality 



Spoiler


----------



## eurovtec

Mikkle said:


> Same as you, NVIDIA GPU HDMI output to AVR input (my AVR is Marantz, and I use Blu-Ray input, should make no difference.). Then AVR HDMI output to P1 HDMI ARC input.
> 
> Quick note, when you include very large pictures in a post, it's a good idea to wrap them in a spoiler tag. Otherwise these large pictures make your posts (and the thread) hard to follow. I'll post an example right below...
> 
> I just took a couple of pictures of Avengers Endgame at approximately the same timestamps as yours above so you can see what the picture should look like in Kodi with HDR working properly. Apologies for the crappy cell phone picture quality
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler


Hi, installed & working now. 
It’s UNBELIEVABLE!!!!! 
Everything looks AWESOME!!!

Thanks.


----------



## Mikkle

Glad to hear you got it working!! It does look pretty awesome


----------



## diggumsmax

eurovtec said:


> Hi, installed & working now.
> It’s UNBELIEVABLE!!!!!
> Everything looks AWESOME!!!
> 
> Thanks.


I'm really glad you got it working. Still wondering why I was receiving the same behavior on my SHIELD TV 2019. It's just to close. I had to check 60hz, 3840 x 2160, YUV 422 12 Bit Rec 2020 specifically. That is the only way I could HDR, and even then it was 8-bit and the picture didn't look right. I tried various 4K HDMI brand cables so that wasn't it. It's obviously two different devices but the Nvidia settings with Kodi seemed to be exactly what I was getting. In fact, I just set my SHIELD PRO to those settings and same results. 8-bit 4.2.2 BT.2020 & HDR with Netflix and all other streaming apps including Kodi. 

I added this audio extractor/switch as I do not have a 4K receiver and no ARC ports, which from my understanding ARC doesn't do Dolby True HD and DTS-MA anyways. I do not need currently need Dolby Atmos so that was a none issue. I may take the audio injector out of the mix to see what results I get as it was added at the same time I replaced the TV model for the PRO. One would think that different CPU's (ARM vs x86/x64) as well a different fork of Kodi would provide different results. I received the audio extractor before the PRO so it was already in the mix. When I hooked it up everything it just worked besides some minor changes to Kodi settings.

The other thing I noticed is when it's in 8-bit HDR the HDR settings have no effect on the video output when switching from Standard, Film, Detail or Bright. There is zero change in picture quality when toggling through the 4 different modes. Now my shield doesn't want to switch back the the default output settings. Tried to figure out why and hoping I don't have to do a factory reset. At least I got screenshots of all my settings. I tried figuring out spoiler mode not to clog the threads with screenshots but I couldn't find it on mobile.


----------



## eurovtec

Mikkle said:


> Glad to hear you got it working!! It does look pretty awesome


Hi Mikkle, I Only got a slight issue of sometimes i play a video, the freq will change to 24Hz. 
Then the video will stutter badly. 
Somehow the windows freq had somehow toggled to 24hz. 
And I just need to change to 60hz and then it will be working fine.
Well since it’s not a official release version, I’m satisfied with the performance and can truly enjoy the performance of P1.
There’s not more weird blacks.
Can’t wait for the stable version.

BTW, last night before i call off the night, I tried to change the video setting of the GPU to use Nvidia Brightness & contrast control. Cos previously i find that PJ’s brightness/contrast control vs GPU is different. 
 P1 brightness adjustment brighten the whole screen, including the black bars. 
 But GPU brightness only brightens the video & not the black bars. 
Same for the contrast. 
So I’m thinking to getting the best picture quality from P1, maybe we need to calibrate the P1 (coarse tuning).
Then calibrate GPU (fine tuning).
Will play around today again.




diggumsmax said:


> I'm really glad you got it working. Still wondering why I was receiving the same behavior on my SHIELD TV 2019. It's just to close. I had to check 60hz, 3840 x 2160, YUV 422 12 Bit Rec 2020 specifically. That is the only way I could HDR, and even then it was 8-bit and the picture didn't look right. I tried various 4K HDMI brand cables so that wasn't it. It's obviously two different devices but the Nvidia settings with Kodi seemed to be exactly what I was getting. In fact, I just set my SHIELD PRO to those settings and same results. 8-bit 4.2.2 BT.2020 & HDR with Netflix and all other streaming apps including Kodi.
> 
> I added this audio extractor/switch as I do not have a 4K receiver and no ARC ports, which from my understanding ARC doesn't do Dolby True HD and DTS-MA anyways. I do not need currently need Dolby Atmos so that was a none issue. I may take the audio injector out of the mix to see what results I get as it was added at the same time I replaced the TV model for the PRO. One would think that different CPU's (ARM vs x86/x64) as well a different fork of Kodi would provide different results. I received the audio extractor before the PRO so it was already in the mix. When I hooked it up everyt
> 
> The other thing I noticed is when it's in 8-bit HDR the HDR settings have no effect on the video output when switching from Standard, Film, Detail or Bright. There is zero change in picture quality when toggling through the 4 different modes. Now my shield doesn't want to switch back the the default output settings. Tried to figure out why and hoping I don't have to do a factory reset. At least I got screenshots of all my settings. I tried figuring out spoiler mode not to clog the threads with screenshots but I couldn't find it on mobile. Will add screenshots showing difference once I get in front of a PC]


Hi diggumsmax, i recalled when i directly hooked my HTPC to my P1(avoiding the HDMI arc).

*Conclusion*
With windows “play HDR games & app” to on, changing to any Color format and Color depth will always yield HDR on P1.
However, even though HDR is enabled on P1, the weird blacks in dark scenes will still be there. Minor difference in blacks when i switched between Color format and depth. 
It is after installing the Kodi HDR that resolves the blacks and brings out all the artifacts in dark scenes.


Since Shield TV pro is running on Android, I’m not sure if there’s a similar KODI HDR for Android. 
I believe KODI HDR will resolve your problem.

For the standard, film, detail & bright settings of the P1, I’ll check On that.
Haven’t touch anything on the projector side yet except for the brightness and contrast.


----------



## diggumsmax

eurovtec said:


> Hi Mikkle, I Only got a slight issue of sometimes i play a video, the freq will change to 24Hz.
> Then the video will stutter badly.
> Somehow the windows freq had somehow toggled to 24hz.
> And I just need to change to 60hz and then it will be working fine.
> Well since it’s not a official release version, I’m satisfied with the performance and can truly enjoy the performance of P1.
> There’s not more weird blacks.
> Can’t wait for the stable version.
> 
> BTW, last night before i call off the night, I tried to change the video setting of the GPU to use Nvidia Brightness & contrast control. Cos previously i find that PJ’s brightness/contrast control vs GPU is different.
> P1 brightness adjustment brighten the whole screen, including the black bars.
> But GPU brightness only brightens the video & not the black bars.
> Same for the contrast.
> So I’m thinking to getting the best picture quality from P1, maybe we need to calibrate the P1 (coarse tuning).
> Then calibrate GPU (fine tuning).
> Will play around today again.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi diggumsmax, i recalled when i directly hooked my HTPC to my P1(avoiding the HDMI arc).
> 
> *Conclusion*
> With windows “play HDR games & app” to on, changing to any Color format and Color depth will always yield HDR on P1.
> However, even though HDR is enabled on P1, the weird blacks in dark scenes will still be there. Minor difference in blacks when i switched between Color format and depth.
> It is after installing the Kodi HDR that resolves the blacks and brings out all the artifacts in dark scenes.
> Since Shield TV pro is running on Android, I’m not sure if there’s a similar KODI HDR for Android.
> I believe KODI HDR will resolve your problem.
> 
> For the standard, film, detail & bright settings of the P1, I’ll check On that.
> Haven’t touch anything on the projector side yet except for the brightness and contrast.


Thanks! I did side load the 64-bit version so I didn't download it from the Play store. That is the only difference between how Kodi was installed on the TV vs the PRO This is the ARM based version that I am currently running which works has zero issues with HDR. I think Google Play TV defaults to 32-bit regardless if you are using the TV or the PRO. While it shouldn't matter due to only having 3GB of RAM, a 64-bit processor should be able to run 64-bit apps which the non PRO will not do period. You get an error when you try to install any 64-bit app. This is where I got the 64-bit Android version that works from. SDR content was VERY washed out when set to 12-bit. It should work with 10-bit default video settings for the SHIELD (minor Kodi settings changes). The PC version is a different fork so it might require some additional tweaking. Didn't know there was a specific HDR version of Kodi for x86. 

https://kodi.tv/download

12 bit (manually set doing 8-bit HDR). SDR content is so dark in this mode it's barely watchable.
Pic

default SHIELD settings, required minor changes to Kodi settings to get 10-bit HDR working.
Pic

Both HDR and SDR material look great. I've enabled RGB mode in Developer Options but not sure if it looks better due to placebo effect or just so minor it is barely noticeable. The other odd behavior is switching HDR picture modes had zero effect on the picture when set to 12-bit. Changing these settings when HDR is working correctly at 10-bit is easily noticeable (standard, film, detail, and bright).


----------



## eurovtec

diggumsmax said:


> Right now everything is running flawlessly on my Shield Pro 2019. I just don't know if it was a firmware update or the audio extractor/switch which resolve the 8-bit only HDR issue. The issue with changing HDR picture modes only happens when it's 8-bit HDR. If it's 10-bit changing HDR modes is very noticeable but it it's 8-bit then I see no changes at all.


Hi, From your P1 input source pic, it’s 8bit. 
I followed the link provided by Mikkle & created a advancedsetting.xml file inside kodi. 
It’s a text file.
Thereafter my P1 Input source is 12bit. 
I’m not sure if you can create a text file on laptop and move the file into Shield kodi folder.


----------



## ernest787

krazykozak said:


> Figured it out with the 3D Glasses. Posting here in case others also have a VR setup.
> 
> My VR base stations were causing interference with the 3d glasses.
> Unplug the Vive and glasses work properly.


How do you like these glasses? I still haven't pulled the trigger on any yet but just had a 3D disc arrive.


----------



## krazykozak

ernest787 said:


> How do you like these glasses? I still haven't pulled the trigger on any yet but just had a 3D disc arrive.


No issues - love the idea I dont have to buy new batteries.


----------



## diggumsmax

eurovtec said:


> Hi, From your P1 input source pic, it’s 8bit.
> I followed the link provided by Mikkle & created a advancedsetting.xml file inside kodi.
> It’s a text file.
> Thereafter my P1 Input source is 12bit.
> I’m not sure if you can create a text file on laptop and move the file into Shield kodi folder.


I apologize for the confusion. The original issue was with a HTPC and HDR with the P1 from another poster. Due to Nvidia settings being brought up I mistook the device as the SHIELD TV 2019, which I previously had. Originally, the SHIELD would only do HDR on my P1 if I set it specially to 12-bit 4.2.2 at 60hz. No other combo would work and I tried them all. If you are using Windows 10, I would try the version in the link below. I believe this is the version that resolved it for eurovtec.

https://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php?tid=345566

I still have no idea why. This wasn't just Kodi, it was all HDR sources (Netflix, ect.). I could only get 10-bit SDR when using the default settings. The screenshot above was me recreating the issue by specifically setting the SHIELD to those same settings (12-bit 60hz, default is 10-bit at 59.9x ) to reproduce the issue which shows up as 8-bit HDR, as it was very similar to what the other poster was having with his HTPC. KODI for for x86 is different then ARM so it's not apples to apples, but just the exact same behavior I had. I know that poster had finally gotten 10 bit HDR working but I'm unsure what settings they changed and if it was Nvidia graphics card settings or KODI settings. I believe they posted them a few post back. 

I waited about a month and ordered a SHIELD PRO 2019 and an HDMI audio extactor/splitter so I could get Dolby True HD and DTS MA to my receiver as I don't have a 4K receiver or HDMI ARC port. When I plugged the SHIELD into that everything worked out of the box on the default settings. The switch has two outputs, one 2.0b for video and one specifically for audio only(HDMI 1.4). I did have to make some minor tweaks to Kodi but that was it. I still don't know if there was a firmware update for the SHIELD or if the audio extractor/switch resolved the issue as it was roughly a month between when I returned the SHIELD TV and got the PRO. I meant to test the other day but had to leave town abruptly. That, and the fact that the SHIELD TV will only run 32-bit apps but that is off topic.


----------



## Kdub69

Can someone post hdr settings and calibration on firestick/tv thanks!!


----------



## diggumsmax

Kdub69 said:


> Can someone post hdr settings and calibration on firestick/tv thanks!!


I recommend sideloading the HDR version of Kodi (pre-release). I have it running on my Shield TV Pro and there where only a few minor changes. I set my settings to this although I don't think I had to change one or two settings as Kodi 18 already had them set. SPMC is just a fork of Kodi so the settings are the same regardless if you are using SPMC or Kodi. I am using Kodi v18.6 "Leia" 64 bit for Android. The firestick is just a butchered version of Android developed by Amazon but if it can do 4K and HDR then it should work, I'm not sure what all file formats the firestick can handle though.

Calibration is going to depend on room, lighting, screen, ect.. so this is going to be specific to your environment so there is no real way to answer this.

EDIT: I just checked my setting and they are all the same as the link except one
allow hardware acceleration - Mediacodec (Surface) = off
This should be on. I'm pretty sure 18.6 sets everything correctly for HDR. I also did not have to do the step to manually change the advancedsettings.xml file. I think most settings I changed were for audio to do passthrough for the formats my receiver can handle.


----------



## FiveMillionWays

imhotep6 said:


> Can’t wait for the 2nd video
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Nice setup. I am actually a subscriber to your youtube...... Planning on ordering one of these or the JVC RS 1000


----------



## Macho9556

Hello Optoma Pm Dude, question. Is the system version C12 specifically for the P1 or could it be for the CinemaX Pro also? Reason being is I am getting a really good price on the Pro model. To good to be true and yes I know what they say about it. I've checked the serial number on the box, on the projector itself and on the info, about menu section and the serial number matches a Pro version not the P1. Don't know if someone could hack it to change the serial number or not but the software version could help determine if it's really a Pro model or a P1 that they are trying to sell as a Pro. Thanks for your time sir


----------



## diggumsmax

Macho9556 said:


> Hello Optoma Pm Dude, question. Is the system version C12 specifically for the P1 or could it be for the CinemaX Pro also? Reason being is I am getting a really good price on the Pro model. To good to be true and yes I know what they say about it. I've checked the serial number on the box, on the projector itself and on the info, about menu section and the serial number matches a Pro version not the P1. Don't know if someone could hack it to change the serial number or not but the software version could help determine if it's really a Pro model or a P1 that they are trying to sell as a Pro. Thanks for your time sir


Just speculating but from my understanding the only difference between the two is the lazer light source which gives the higher end (originally for UK only, but I have seen this model from authorized resellers in the states) model the extra brightness and contrast ratio advantages. I have not read about any of the current issues being an issue on one model and not the other. If true, I don't see why they wouldn't either both come out at once or the higher end model being a few days, possibly a few weeks at most after released on the P1. 

It seems like a lot of the issues are isolated to the same areas (game lag time, odd HDMI handshaking issues with some 4K HDR devices and issues with HDR from some devices, weird behavior when changing picture settings where half the screen is scrambled). The last one was improved in C12 but not fully fixed. Take that with a grain of salt until hopefully optoma pm dude can give a more accurate answer about when C14 is expected to be officially released. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Mikkle

I'm surprised this hasn't been posted yet, but Projector Central published their in-depth review of the Optoma CinemaX P1 yesterday. As usual, it's well worth a read. 

You can find the review here: https://www.projectorcentral.com/Optoma-CinemaX-P1-UST-Projector-Review.htm

Among other things, the review mentions that the firmware update is *planned for mid-June* and includes fixes for the wrong color space sometimes getting applied, as well as input lag improvements from ~120 ms to ~70 ms.



Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


----------



## ProCentral Rob

Mikkle said:


> I'm surprised this hasn't been posted yet, but Projector Central published their in-depth review of the Optoma CinemaX P1 yesterday. As usual, it's well worth a read.
> 
> You can find the review here: https://www.projectorcentral.com/Optoma-CinemaX-P1-UST-Projector-Review.htm
> 
> Among other things, the review mentions that the firmware update is *planned for mid-June* and includes fixes for the wrong color space sometimes getting applied, as well as input lag improvements from ~120 ms to ~70 ms.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


 @Mikkle, thanks for posting our review of the P1 for the community. I was the reviewer and I'm around to respond to any questions anyone has. Just to add something here, Optoma told us that the new firmware could drop anytime from late May through mid-June, so there's a chance it might come early.


----------



## ProCentral Rob

Rpmartinez said:


> ProCentral Rob said:
> 
> 
> 
> Mikkle[/ Optoma P1 vs LGHU85LA cinebeam?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> I have both projectors in house and am now anxious to revisit the LG, which I reviewed last fall and whose performance is no longer in recent memory. My perspective on the 4K UST laser TV category, and my review methodology, have also deepened following my more recent reviews of the VAVA and now this Optoma, so it'll be good to view the LG again through that looking glass. From a pure engineering perspective, the LG's more advanced laser engine should permit wider gamut and better color, and it's dynamic tone-mapping for HDR is probably still an advantage, though I'll be anxious to see if they've done any firmware updates to improve it. It works well, but in retrospect it would also have been nice to have some modicum of additional tone-mapping adjustment on top of whatever the projector's processing settles on, which was not offered in the settings when I reviewed this. The LG did not, at that time offer HLG compatibility, either. The other key distinguishing characteristic for the LG is its advanced smart TV platform, which is carried over from LG's sets. It's also the only one of the three projectors in this class I've reviewed that has a built-in off-air tuner, though I think the Hisense, which we have coming up for review, has one as well. But in general, I think you can say that the LG has much more polished and thoughtful ergonomics overall than the Optoma or VAVA.
> 
> 
> 
> That stuff is all superfluous to image quality though. Whether differences in image quality justify the quite significant premium for the LG over the Optoma I can't say without doing a comparison, but the Optoma proved a very good performer for its price. What I can say with certainty right now is that stepping up from the VAVA to the Optoma justifies the much smaller premium in that comparison.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/LG-HU85LA-4K-UST-Laser-Projector-Review.htm
> 
> 
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/VAVA-VA-LT002-UST-Laser-Projector-Review.htm
Click to expand...


----------



## Rpmartinez

ProCentral Rob said:


> Rpmartinez said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have both projectors in house and am now anxious to revisit the LG, which I reviewed last fall and whose performance is no longer in recent memory. My perspective on the 4K UST laser TV category, and my review methodology, have also deepened following my more recent reviews of the VAVA and now this Optoma, so it'll be good to view the LG again through that looking glass. From a pure engineering perspective, the LG's more advanced laser engine should permit wider gamut and better color, and it's dynamic tone-mapping for HDR is probably still an advantage, though I'll be anxious to see if they've done any firmware updates to improve it. It works well, but in retrospect it would also have been nice to have some modicum of additional tone-mapping adjustment on top of whatever the projector's processing settles on, which was not offered in the settings when I reviewed this. The LG did not, at that time offer HLG compatibility, either. The other key distinguishing characteristic for the LG is its advanced smart TV platform, which is carried over from LG's sets. It's also the only one of the three projectors in this class I've reviewed that has a built-in off-air tuner, though I think the Hisense, which we have coming up for review, has one as well. But in general, I think you can say that the LG has much more polished and thoughtful ergonomics overall than the Optoma or VAVA.
> 
> 
> 
> That stuff is all superfluous to image quality though. Whether differences in image quality justify the quite significant premium for the LG over the Optoma I can't say without doing a comparison, but the Optoma proved a very good performer for its price. What I can say with certainty right now is that stepping up from the VAVA to the Optoma justifies the much smaller premium in that comparison.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/LG-HU85LA-4K-UST-Laser-Projector-Review.htm
> 
> 
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/VAVA-VA-LT002-UST-Laser-Projector-Review.htm
> 
> 
> 
> Great, thanks Rob!
Click to expand...


----------



## JackB

ProCentral Rob said:


> Rpmartinez said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have both projectors in house and am now anxious to revisit the LG, which I reviewed last fall and whose performance is no longer in recent memory. My perspective on the 4K UST laser TV category, and my review methodology, have also deepened following my more recent reviews of the VAVA and now this Optoma, so it'll be good to view the LG again through that looking glass. From a pure engineering perspective, the LG's more advanced laser engine should permit wider gamut and better color, and it's dynamic tone-mapping for HDR is probably still an advantage, though I'll be anxious to see if they've done any firmware updates to improve it. It works well, but in retrospect it would also have been nice to have some modicum of additional tone-mapping adjustment on top of whatever the projector's processing settles on, which was not offered in the settings when I reviewed this. The LG did not, at that time offer HLG compatibility, either. The other key distinguishing characteristic for the LG is its advanced smart TV platform, which is carried over from LG's sets. It's also the only one of the three projectors in this class I've reviewed that has a built-in off-air tuner, though I think the Hisense, which we have coming up for review, has one as well. But in general, I think you can say that the LG has much more polished and thoughtful ergonomics overall than the Optoma or VAVA.
> 
> 
> 
> That stuff is all superfluous to image quality though. Whether differences in image quality justify the quite significant premium for the LG over the Optoma I can't say without doing a comparison, but the Optoma proved a very good performer for its price. What I can say with certainty right now is that stepping up from the VAVA to the Optoma justifies the much smaller premium in that comparison.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/LG-HU85LA-4K-UST-Laser-Projector-Review.htm
> 
> 
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/VAVA-VA-LT002-UST-Laser-Projector-Review.htm
> 
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> These latest UST projectors seem to do a much better job with black levels and contrast than the short to long throw dlp projectors that use the same chip set. Can you explain why this is so from a technical, hardware and software, viewpoint?
Click to expand...


----------



## Mikkle

ProCentral Rob said:


> @Mikkle, thanks for posting our review of the P1 for the community. I was the reviewer and I'm around to respond to any questions anyone has. Just to add something here, Optoma told us that the new firmware could drop anytime from late May through mid-June, so there's a chance it might come early.


Thanks for the clarification Rob! I also just want to take this opportunity to thank you for all the thoughtful and detailed analysis you've contributed to ProjectorCentral over the last two years. The quality of your work is always an inspiration. Cheers!


----------



## ProCentral Rob

JackB said:


> ProCentral Rob said:
> 
> 
> 
> Rob,
> 
> These latest UST projectors seem to do a much better job with black levels and contrast than the short to long throw dlp projectors that use the same chip set. Can you explain why this is so from a technical, hardware and software, viewpoint?
> 
> 
> 
> I can't, Jack, and I haven't taken contrast measurements to verify what you're describing, but I subjectively agree with the statement. I noticed on the Optoma and the Vava that you can get fairly deep blacks if you turn down the brightness control, though there's a limit to how low you can get before you crush the shadow details. As to why...I don't have much to even conjecture. Maybe something to do with improvements to the modulation of the laser light source? Prior to the USTs, the contrast/blacks coming off any of the laser projectors I've seen has been a detriment and not a plus.
> 
> 
> 
> That said, any time I've done a direct A/B comparison between one of these USTs and my JVC DLA-X790 reference projector (which I'm able to do by alternating the image with a sliding board over the UST lens and the Hide function on the JVC remote), it becomes apparent that the blacks on the USTs still have a long way to go.
Click to expand...


----------



## ProCentral Rob

Mikkle said:


> Thanks for the clarification Rob! I also just want to take this opportunity to thank you for all the thoughtful and detailed analysis you've contributed to ProjectorCentral over the last two years. The quality of your work is always an inspiration. Cheers!


Thanks, that's really appreciated!


----------



## eurovtec

Hi, My P1 unit is from Asia. Part no is H1P0A30BR1Z1.

Out of box system and firmware version.


Spoiler















Was told by my distributor to upgrade to C14.
https://www.optoma.com/ap/product/p1/

I followed the procedure. 
After 1st round of upgrading, My system becomes C14, from C12.
Upon shutting down, the unit prompted for update(which according to the procedure is driver update).
It’s mentioned it will take 30mins and it is playing music while it’s updating. 


Spoiler















*After full upgrade*


Spoiler














I’ve asked my distributor to ask Optoma on what does these C14 system update covers.

Not sure if it’s placebo effect. 
Rewatching Avatar with downlights turn on and HDR Sim mode, the colours are so much vibrant than before.
Hope someone with the AV equipment can verify the projector again after the firmware & system upgrade.

*Playing Avatar & its input source shows BT2020 & SDR, instead of BT709. If play HDR movies, it will be BT2020 & HDR*


Spoiler















For display mode i set to other settings except cinema mode, then watch a movie in HDR. After stopping movie and back to Kodi, the display mode will always be default to Cinema mode, instead of the setting i previously use.
So i Guess this remain the same after the upgrade.


----------



## akhizver

I don't think I've seen this mentioned, but when I stream 24hz content, the projector's display freezes and unfreezes every second or so. This happens with all content on Apple TV app and certain Youtube content, both of which I use Roku Ultra to stream. The only way to fix it is to disable Auto-adjust display refresh rate on the Roku. Is this a known issue with the projector or is it not capable of displaying 24hz content?


----------



## rayhk

ProCentral Rob said:


> @Mikkle, thanks for posting our review of the P1 for the community. I was the reviewer and I'm around to respond to any questions anyone has. Just to add something here, Optoma told us that the new firmware could drop anytime from late May through mid-June, so there's a chance it might come early.


Hi Rob,

Thanks for your detail review. 

Have you tested the PQ of P1 when the tone mapping feature of Panasonic DP-UB820 UHD Blu-ray player was used? Thanks. I am interested in buying UB820 because of the tone mapping but I am not sure if P1 will work well with it.


----------



## rayhk

eurovtec said:


> Hi, My P1 unit is from Asia. Part no is H1P0A30BR1Z1.
> 
> Out of box system and firmware version.
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was told by my distributor to upgrade to C14.
> https://www.optoma.com/ap/product/p1/
> 
> I followed the procedure.
> After 1st round of upgrading, My system becomes C14, from C12.
> Upon shutting down, the unit prompted for update(which according to the procedure is driver update).
> It’s mentioned it will take 30mins and it is playing music while it’s updating.
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *After full upgrade*
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I’ve asked my distributor to ask Optoma on what does these C14 system update covers.
> 
> Not sure if it’s placebo effect.
> Rewatching Avatar with downlights turn on and HDR Sim mode, the colours are so much vibrant than before.
> Hope someone with the AV equipment can verify the projector again after the firmware & system upgrade.
> 
> *Playing Avatar & its input source shows BT2020 & SDR, instead of BT709. If play HDR movies, it will be BT2020 & HDR*
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For display mode i set to other settings except cinema mode, then watch a movie in HDR. After stopping movie and back to Kodi, the display mode will always be default to Cinema mode, instead of the setting i previously use.
> So i Guess this remain the same after the upgrade.



C14 had been shown in Taiwan Optoma P1 website for few months already. Recently, I got a chance to use C15 (which was provided by Optoma support in order to resolve my reported issues), the issue of changing back to Cinema mode remains the same. From my observation, C15 seems have resolved some HDR issues with Nvidia Shield TV Pro but I am not sure if this is the version that will be formally released in mid June.


----------



## ProCentral Rob

rayhk said:


> Hi Rob,
> 
> Thanks for your detail review.
> 
> Have you tested the PQ of P1 when the tone mapping feature of Panasonic DP-UB820 UHD Blu-ray player was used? Thanks. I am interested in buying UB820 because of the tone mapping but I am not sure if P1 will work well with it.


 @*rayhk* , actually I haven't short of a few brief moments. I made sure to turn off any of the Panny's HDR processing during eval to be certain I was looking at the projector's unmodified HDR pic, and most often used my Sony UBP-X800. I'm actually without a P1 sample now for a little while -- Optoma needed mine back for a bit -- but it's something I'll explore more later. What I can say is that the UB820 is an outstanding player and the level of HDR and other adjustments make it well worthwhile.


----------



## eurovtec

rayhk said:


> C14 had been shown in Taiwan Optoma P1 website for few months already. Recently, I got a chance to use C15 (which was provided by Optoma support in order to resolve my reported issues), the issue of changing back to Cinema mode remains the same. From my observation, C15 seems have resolved some HDR issues with Nvidia Shield TV Pro but I am not sure if this is the version that will be formally released in mid June.


Oh, so you upgraded from C12 to C14? Or your unit is C14 out of the box.
So what are the problems that you are facing that C15 is in the making? 

I’m quite certain the colours seems to be better after upgrading from C12 to C14. 
Not sure if it’s able to recognise BT2020 rather than BT709??
Or it’s just purely the Color settings?

Left is C12 vs right is C14.


Spoiler


----------



## diggumsmax

ProCentral Rob said:


> @Mikkle, thanks for posting our review of the P1 for the community. I was the reviewer and I'm around to respond to any questions anyone has. Just to add something here, Optoma told us that the new firmware could drop anytime from late May through mid-June, so there's a chance it might come early.


Thank you for clearing explaining why the P1 keeps switching back to the Cinema mode preset. This been driving me nuts as there appeared, to me, to be no way to consistently reproduce the issue. Sometimes I would turn the P1 on and it was in HDR Sim, which I use for most daytime viewing. Other times it would revert to Cinema. You clearly explained the issue and based off some other posts, it does not appear this will be fixed in C14 but will wait to get the official update to see if it's resolved. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## ProCentral Rob

diggumsmax said:


> Thank you for clearing explaining why the P1 keeps switching back to the Cinema mode preset. This been driving me nuts as there appeared, to me, to be no way to consistently reproduce the issue. Sometimes I would turn the P1 on and it was in HDR Sim, which I use for most daytime viewing. Other times it would revert to Cinema. You clearly explained the issue and based off some other posts, it does not appear this will be fixed in C14 but will wait to get the official update to see if it's resolved.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Hopefully it gets fixed with the next update; Optoma was clear with me that this is being addressed in the upcoming fw push.


----------



## rayhk

ProCentral Rob said:


> @*rayhk* , actually I haven't short of a few brief moments. I made sure to turn off any of the Panny's HDR processing during eval to be certain I was looking at the projector's unmodified HDR pic, and most often used my Sony UBP-X800. I'm actually without a P1 sample now for a little while -- Optoma needed mine back for a bit -- but it's something I'll explore more later. What I can say is that the UB820 is an outstanding player and the level of HDR and other adjustments make it well worthwhile.


Hi Rob,
Understood. Please help me to check the HDR performance on P1 with UB820 tone mapping on when you have chance. I am also looking forward to seeing your review on P1 again once the official FW upgrade is release. Thanks.


----------



## rayhk

eurovtec said:


> Oh, so you upgraded from C12 to C14? Or your unit is C14 out of the box.
> So what are the problems that you are facing that C15 is in the making?
> 
> I’m quite certain the colours seems to be better after upgrading from C12 to C14.
> Not sure if it’s able to recognise BT2020 rather than BT709??
> Or it’s just purely the Color settings?
> 
> Left is C12 vs right is C14.
> 
> 
> Spoiler


I updated my FW from C12 to C14 to C15. The issues I got are related to the recognition of BT2020 and the dim HDR image when using NVIDIA Shield TV pro and Sony X700. Personally, I feel C15 is more stable.


----------



## eurovtec

akhizver said:


> I don't think I've seen this mentioned, but when I stream 24hz content, the projector's display freezes and unfreezes every second or so. This happens with all content on Apple TV app and certain Youtube content, both of which I use Roku Ultra to stream. The only way to fix it is to disable Auto-adjust display refresh rate on the Roku. Is this a known issue with the projector or is it not capable of displaying 24hz content?


I use my HTPC on windows. 
I found that if i use KODI and play video, even though my refresh rate is 60hz for nvidia setting, when i play the video, it behaves the same way as u describe. Video freeze and unfreeze every sec. 
When i go to nvidia setting, i found the refresh rate changed to 23hz. 
Once i change it back to 60hz, video will be ok. 
Every time I just need to do once in the beginning.
Then i use VLC to play the same video, this freezing won’t happen at all, whether I set to 23hz or 60hz. 
Thus I don’t think it’s the streaming issue or the P1 issue, but more of the software of the unit where it’s outputting the video source.


----------



## eurovtec

rayhk said:


> I updated my FW from C12 to C14 to C15. The issues I got are related to the recognition of BT2020 and the dim HDR image when using NVIDIA Shield TV pro and Sony X700. Personally, I feel C15 is more stable.


Do you know what fixes are made by C15? 
In the firmware page, there are system, MCU & DDP. 
When we plug in the USB to upgrade the projector, it’s the system version that change.
The MCU and DDP will be upgraded when we turn off the unit. 

I wonder what does MCU & DDP stands for. 
It will be great if Optoma list down the changelog for the firmware so that we know the fixes. 

Not sure if anyone display windows on your projector. 
I find that every time i turn on the projector, when I open a Google chrome(any window with preferably text on the upper left & right corners, it will be more obvious. The focus is always “reset”.
Thus i need to manual adjust the focus of the left by pressing twice to get the focus.
And I need to do it every time the projector is power cycled.


----------



## akhizver

eurovtec said:


> I use my HTPC on windows.
> I found that if i use KODI and play video, even though my refresh rate is 60hz for nvidia setting, when i play the video, it behaves the same way as u describe. Video freeze and unfreeze every sec.
> When i go to nvidia setting, i found the refresh rate changed to 23hz.
> Once i change it back to 60hz, video will be ok.
> Every time I just need to do once in the beginning.
> Then i use VLC to play the same video, this freezing won’t happen at all, whether I set to 23hz or 60hz.
> Thus I don’t think it’s the streaming issue or the P1 issue, but more of the software of the unit where it’s outputting the video source.


The reason I don't think it's Roku's software is because when I connect it to my TV, the same 24hz content streams just fine. Maybe ProCentral Rob could explain what might be happening. I'm a noob in the projector world and would love to learn.


----------



## diggumsmax

eurovtec said:


> Do you know what fixes are made by C15?
> 
> In the firmware page, there are system, MCU & DDP.
> 
> When we plug in the USB to upgrade the projector, it’s the system version that change.
> 
> The MCU and DDP will be upgraded when we turn off the unit.
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder what does MCU & DDP stands for.
> 
> It will be great if Optoma list down the changelog for the firmware so that we know the fixes.
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if anyone display windows on your projector.
> 
> I find that every time i turn on the projector, when I open a Google chrome(any window with preferably text on the upper left & right corners, it will be more obvious. The focus is always “reset”.
> 
> Thus i need to manual adjust the focus of the left by pressing twice to get the focus.
> 
> And I need to do it every time the projector is power cycled.


I can say that I have never had the P1 lose focus settings and I've had it since launch. I did do the initial upgrade after I received the P1 (C10/11?) as C12 wasn't released until November so it was before C12 was released. It does however change picture settings exactly as described in the detailed projector central review of the P1. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## ProCentral Rob

rayhk said:


> Hi Rob,
> Understood. Please help me to check the HDR performance on P1 with UB820 tone mapping on when you have chance. I am also looking forward to seeing your review on P1 again once the official FW upgrade is release. Thanks.



Sure thing -- two key things to expore.


----------



## rayhk

ProCentral Rob said:


> Sure thing -- two key things to expore.


Thanks Rob. It will be very appreciated if you can also recommend the calibration settings of both P1 and UB820 after you test them.


----------



## rayhk

eurovtec said:


> Do you know what fixes are made by C15?
> In the firmware page, there are system, MCU & DDP.
> When we plug in the USB to upgrade the projector, it’s the system version that change.
> The MCU and DDP will be upgraded when we turn off the unit.
> 
> I wonder what does MCU & DDP stands for.
> It will be great if Optoma list down the changelog for the firmware so that we know the fixes.


I don't know what change they have made.


----------



## eurovtec

*Found this simple app(THX tune up) for IOS for calibration.*

Notice there’s a TapCast on P1. I think C14 upgrade includes this screen mirroring function.
Once we downloaded tapcast on IOS, we can connect to P1 thru tapcast.
Launch the THX tune up app.
It’s a simple app to help you tune your brightness, contrast & Color.


Spoiler















However the problem is we can’t adjust the brightness & misc setting At all display mode when at Optoma home screen.
Only able to adjust the brightness/misc setting when P1 is displaying a HDMI source.


Spoiler


----------



## Michi9999

Hi Guys, 

I buyed the Optoma p1 - I’m a casual online gamer - RainbowSix Siege on PS4 - and I Heard- the input lag is very bad? 

Knows anyone about a firmware update about a lower lag from 120+ to 70m/s ??? 

Thx guys


----------



## freejak13

Michi9999 said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> I buyed the Optoma p1 - I’m a casual online gamer - RainbowSix Siege on PS4 - and I Heard- the input lag is very bad?
> 
> Knows anyone about a firmware update about a lower lag from 120+ to 70m/s ???
> 
> Thx guys


We've been told the firmware that will address input lag should be out by early June. Competitive FPS's are not viable with the current lag.


----------



## bennutt

freejak13 said:


> We've been told the firmware that will address input lag should be out by early June. Competitive FPS's are not viable with the current lag.



While 120 to 70 is a big jump I was really hoping it would at least be below 50. Still watching the thread 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## eurovtec

akhizver said:


> The reason I don't think it's Roku's software is because when I connect it to my TV, the same 24hz content streams just fine. Maybe ProCentral Rob could explain what might be happening. I'm a noob in the projector world and would love to learn.


Hi, after I disabled Kodi adjust refresh rate, I too will not have every sec frame freezing. 
Thus I read up on Kodi refresh rate. There’s also another sync to display setting.
https://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php?tid=219796
With that refresh rate setting to enabled, i believe the video source will switch back and forth between different refresh rates due to the content, and sending them to the display. 
THus I believe it’s the projector unable to switch the refresh rate “Actively”. 
If by enabling the refresh rate setting to have everything work flawlessly, i’m ok with it.


----------



## ProCentral Rob

rayhk said:


> Thanks Rob. It will be very appreciated if you can also recommend the calibration settings of both P1 and UB820 after you test them.


I can do that!


----------



## Kdub69

diggumsmax said:


> Kdub69 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can someone post hdr settings and calibration on firestick/tv thanks!!
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend sideloading the HDR version of Kodi (pre-release). I have it running on my Shield TV Pro and there where only a few minor changes. I set my settings to this although I don't think I had to change one or two settings as Kodi 18 already had them set. SPMC is just a fork of Kodi so the settings are the same regardless if you are using SPMC or Kodi. I am using Kodi v18.6 "Leia" 64 bit for Android. The firestick is just a butchered version of Android developed by Amazon but if it can do 4K and HDR then it should work, I'm not sure what all file formats the firestick can handle though.
> 
> Calibration is going to depend on room, lighting, screen, ect.. so this is going to be specific to your environment so there is no real way to answer this.
> 
> EDIT: I just checked my setting and they are all the same as the link except one
> allow hardware acceleration - Mediacodec (Surface) = off
> This should be on. I'm pretty sure 18.6 sets everything correctly for HDR. I also did not have to do the step to manually change the advancedsettings.xml file. I think most settings I changed were for audio to do passthrough for the formats my receiver can handle.
Click to expand...


Can you post your hdr sim calibrations? Also what type of receiver are you using does it have hdr? My reciever looks like it does not support hdr even though it has 4k I guess my only option to get true hdr is to upgrade reciever?


----------



## diggumsmax

Kdub69 said:


> Can you post your hdr sim calibrations? Also what type of receiver are you using does it have hdr? My reciever looks like it does not support hdr even though it has 4k I guess my only option to get true hdr is to upgrade reciever?


I'm out of town but I do find I'm constantly tweaking settings. It's far from calibrated as I haven't gotten to that. I have an ALR screen and I do remember the settings where much different than my Stewart Firehawk before getting an ALR screen. I think brightness is -2 to -4 and contrast is set to +4/+5. It seems like most reviewers are going the opposite direction with the brightness being +6 and contrast being -5. Gamma is set to 2.2 (or last option at the bottom). Color is at +15 and tint is +10. Sharpness is 2. Brilliant color is all the way up so colors are oversaturated but I like the look of the image even though I know it's not calibrated. I don't know why but movies tend to look better with color set to warm while some things like YouTube look better on coolest (last option under cool). I would also look at the very detailed projector screen review as they posted their settings on both a non ALR screen and on an ALR screen. I've found that leaving pure motion has started to grow on me as I typically don't like the soap opera effect but 2 or 3 is just way too much.

https://www.projectorcentral.com/Opt...ted Settings

Since I Don't have a receiver that does 4K or HDR, or even an ARC input but does everything but Dolby Atmos as far as sound formats. I ended up getting an audio extractor for Dolby true HD and DTS MA and it works great. It also gives you additional inputs. It's the ViewHD Prosumer UHD HDMI 4X1 Switch with Audio Extraction on Amazon. It has two outputs, one HDMI 2.0b port for video and one 1.4 port for audio. It can also output 1080p on the 1.4 port if you ever wanted to output to two displays but I don't use it. The 1.4 output goes to my receiver. This way I get HDR and the best audio. I do have to adjust the audio delay due to audio being off but both my receiver and shield pro have settings to get the audio and video in sync. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Kdub69

What kind of 4k hdr receiver would people recommend for the optoma p1? I have a 5.1 surround sound system right now but I want to upgrade for the future whats the best bang for performance? Thanks in advance!


----------



## Kdub69

Thank you so much!


----------



## Kdub69

diggumsmax said:


> Kdub69 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can you post your hdr sim calibrations? Also what type of receiver are you using does it have hdr? My reciever looks like it does not support hdr even though it has 4k I guess my only option to get true hdr is to upgrade reciever?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm out of town but I do find I'm constantly tweaking settings. It's far from calibrated as I haven't gotten to that. I have an ALR screen and I do remember the settings where much different than my Stewart Firehawk before getting an ALR screen. I think brightness is -2 to -4 and contrast is set to +4/+5. It seems like most reviewers are going the opposite direction with the brightness being +6 and contrast being -5. Gamma is set to 2.2 (or last option at the bottom). Color is at +15 and tint is +10. Sharpness is 2. Brilliant color is all the way up so colors are oversaturated but I like the look of the image even though I know it's not calibrated. I don't know why but movies tend to look better with color set to warm while some things like YouTube look better on coolest (last option under cool). I would also look at the very detailed projector screen review as they posted their settings on both a non ALR screen and on an ALR screen. I've found that leaving pure motion has started to grow on me as I typically don't like the soap opera effect but 2 or 3 is just way too much.
> 
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/Opt...ted Settings
> 
> Since I Don't have a receiver that does 4K or HDR, or even an ARC input but does everything but Dolby Atmos as far as sound formats. I ended up getting an audio extractor for Dolby true HD and DTS MA and it works great. It also gives you additional inputs. It's the ViewHD Prosumer UHD HDMI 4X1 Switch with Audio Extraction on Amazon. It has two outputs, one HDMI 2.0b port for video and one 1.4 port for audio. It can also output 1080p on the 1.4 port if you ever wanted to output to two displays but I don't use it. The 1.4 output goes to my receiver. This way I get HDR and the best audio. I do have to adjust the audio delay due to audio being off but both my receiver and shield pro have settings to get the audio and video in sync.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Thank you!!!


----------



## eurovtec

*Video turns dull on dynamic black1 settings*
Hi anyone observe this when playing HDR?

When u toggle the brightness from dynamic black 1 to 100% brightness and then back to dynamic black1, your video will look brighter and more vivid. 
But after few secs later, u see the video dim down and Color not as rich as before.
Refer to the short video.
Video turned dull at 14secs onwards by itself.l
U need to watch videos without fast frames like people talking videos. 
You just toggle between 100% and Dynamic black1.
https://i.imgur.com/MdOVLZm.mp4

Further findings is from dynamic black1 to 3 and then to brightness 50%, then back to DB3, sometimes the video looks so bright and vivid and then it turns back to DB3 darkness mode. 
The video looks the best, especially viewing in daytime. 
*I urge you guys to test out and if u also see this behaviour.*

*Only playing 4KHDR KingKong will see this effect*
Also anyone play the 4KHDR Kingkong movie? 
I cannot see this with my naked eye though.
I was trying to video it with iphoneX max and wanted to show the video quality to my friend and made this discovery. 
Only this 4K HDR movie will i see this. 
Anyone knows why?


Spoiler

















Spoiler


----------



## J Bone

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Everyone -- WE apologize for the delay. We have R&D resources in the Wuhan Region and this impacted resources "severely. Unfortunately, Covid-19's impact reaches far and wide.
> 
> We have moved to the release test phase for the new FW. This will last a few weeks. If testing proceeds as expected, we will release the FW in the second half of May into early June.
> 
> Some of the issues that will be addressed and or improved:
> 
> - 1080p 60Hz and 1080p 120Hz input Lag improvement.
> - 4K UHD Input Lag improvement.
> - Gaming Mode Toggle -- Will disable SmartFIT and PureMotion when enabled for optimal performance.
> - Dim image when HDR is enabled and the content is 4K UHD HDR, 4K UHD "Non-HDR" or "SDR". This occurs with some MP4 and .TS files.
> - 4:2:2 8-bit issue with 4:2:2 and 4:4:4 enabled on the source device.
> - Continued improvement of the Image Flickering
> - Improve UI for Focus Function
> 
> I will provide a full list in the near future.
> 
> Questions -- feel free to let me know.



Any updates on a firmware release date?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## DunMunro

And another review:

https://www.projectorreviews.com/op...ojector-for-the-really-big-screen-experience/


----------



## Jan L

eurovtec said:


> *Video turns dull on dynamic black1 settings*
> Hi anyone observe this when playing HDR?
> 
> When u toggle the brightness from dynamic black 1 to 100% brightness and then back to dynamic black1, your video will look brighter and more vivid.
> But after few secs later, u see the video dim down and Color not as rich as before.
> Refer to the short video.
> Video turned dull at 14secs onwards by itself.l
> U need to watch videos without fast frames like people talking videos.
> You just toggle between 100% and Dynamic black1.
> https://i.imgur.com/MdOVLZm.mp4
> 
> Further findings is from dynamic black1 to 3 and then to brightness 50%, then back to DB3, sometimes the video looks so bright and vivid and then it turns back to DB3 darkness mode.
> The video looks the best, especially viewing in daytime.
> *I urge you guys to test out and if u also see this behaviour.*
> 
> *Only playing 4KHDR KingKong will see this effect*
> Also anyone play the 4KHDR Kingkong movie?
> I cannot see this with my naked eye though.
> I was trying to video it with iphoneX max and wanted to show the video quality to my friend and made this discovery.
> Only this 4K HDR movie will i see this.
> Anyone knows why?
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler


Im seeing the exact same behavior with mine. DB doesnt seem to work as it should. Pumping and noticeable color changes. I want the Image it produces when switching between Dynamik black 1 und laser 100% ...the Blacks stay dark and the Image is still vibrant ...brighter than with 100% ... Software Update? Or is my DB broken? Even my gf complained about the pumping 😞


----------



## eurovtec

Jan L said:


> Im seeing the exact same behavior with mine. DB doesnt seem to work as it should. Pumping and noticeable color changes. I want the Image it produces when switching between Dynamik black 1 und laser 100% ...the Blacks stay dark and the Image is still vibrant ...brighter than with 100% ... Software Update? Or is my DB broken? Even my gf complained about the pumping 😞


The brightness mode is weird. 
Sometimes when you switch from DB1 to 2 to 3, you can see the video changes from dark to darkest.
But sometimes it doesn’t.
And when you go from DB3 to 55% brightness and back to DB3, the video will turn bright with beautiful contrast. After a while it will turn dim.
The projector will present the best picture quality during daytime if the image brightness & contrast stays that way.
I’ve called up Optoma HQ and emailed to them the short video of the Ironman scene.


----------



## Jan L

Good Idea, im looking forward to seeing their answer.


----------



## chinmokutak

any idea on when the new fw will be released?


----------



## Jan L

No, but there are already Updates from cw12 to at least cw15 to bei downloaded from their Website. I have the european uhz65ust, so im not willing to try them.

I have Seen a protection film/foil on my Lens glass which has some small "Air Bubbles" on it. The Image doesnt seem to suffer but nevertheless, id Like to remove it. Problem: there is nothing to get it off with....is it meant to stay?


----------



## Jan L

Just read the manual...it should stay and i cleaned it, so everything is good now.


----------



## chinmokutak

Jan L said:


> No, but there are already Updates from cw12 to at least cw15 to bei downloaded from their Website. I have the european uhz65ust, so im not willing to try them.
> 
> I have Seen a protection film/foil on my Lens glass which has some small "Air Bubbles" on it. The Image doesnt seem to suffer but nevertheless, id Like to remove it. Problem: there is nothing to get it off with....is it meant to stay?


where is CW15 posted?


----------



## aohus

Jan L said:


> eurovtec said:
> 
> 
> 
> *Video turns dull on dynamic black1 settings*
> Hi anyone observe this when playing HDR?
> 
> When u toggle the brightness from dynamic black 1 to 100% brightness and then back to dynamic black1, your video will look brighter and more vivid.
> But after few secs later, u see the video dim down and Color not as rich as before.
> Refer to the short video.
> Video turned dull at 14secs onwards by itself.l
> U need to watch videos without fast frames like people talking videos.
> You just toggle between 100% and Dynamic black1.
> https://i.imgur.com/MdOVLZm.mp4
> 
> Further findings is from dynamic black1 to 3 and then to brightness 50%, then back to DB3, sometimes the video looks so bright and vivid and then it turns back to DB3 darkness mode.
> The video looks the best, especially viewing in daytime.
> *I urge you guys to test out and if u also see this behaviour.*
> 
> *Only playing 4KHDR KingKong will see this effect*
> Also anyone play the 4KHDR Kingkong movie?
> I cannot see this with my naked eye though.
> I was trying to video it with iphoneX max and wanted to show the video quality to my friend and made this discovery.
> Only this 4K HDR movie will i see this.
> Anyone knows why?
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im seeing the exact same behavior with mine. DB doesnt seem to work as it should. Pumping and noticeable color changes. I want the Image it produces when switching between Dynamik black 1 und laser 100% ...the Blacks stay dark and the Image is still vibrant ...brighter than with 100% ... Software Update? Or is my DB broken? Even my gf complained about the pumping 😞
Click to expand...

im having the same issue as well. or the brightness will dim once the scene changes. Right now in order for proper daytime viewing i have to change to graphics mode for gamma and increase contrast a bit.


----------



## eurovtec

aohus said:


> im having the same issue as well. or the brightness will dim once the scene changes. Right now in order for proper daytime viewing i have to change to graphics mode for gamma and increase contrast a bit.


Yes. That’s one other observation. The dimming can happens within the same scene, and when the scene changes.
The Optoma HQ Taiwan tech side asked me if the dimming happens when the OSD menu goes off.
Thus yesterday I tested a few more 4K HDR videos at different scenes. 
Out of the many repeated tests, it seems like when we bring up the OSD menu and scroll to the brightness mode to toggle the dynamic black, when the picture brightens and stays brighten when the OSD menu is there.
And the video dimmed seems to coincide with the OSD menu disappearing. 
I’m repeating the scenes over and over and videoing with my iphone. Looking at the screen to see the dimming and the viewing it on my iPhone and scroll thru the frames to determine if the phenomenon is always the same.

I’m not sure if the promised to be released fw addresses this phenomenon.
I wish it does.....


----------



## Christian Spiga

J Bone said:


> Any updates on a firmware release date?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


OPTOMA PM DUDE i don't think is an offical guy from Optoma.

The only thing that i don't really understand is :

- The official last firmware is C12, for official i mean that is what you can update using the menù "Software Update" in the Projector.

- There are different version around in the web that you can download, C13 - C14 - C15, that you can also download from the Optoma Website.

BUT WHY, is possible to download manually and is not possible to update from the function inside the projector?


----------



## zekonavsforum

Hi, 

I've got the french version since 6 months ( Optoma P1 = Optoma UHZ65UST ), and always on firmware C12 ( always saying it's the last firmware from the integrated update application of the projector )

Last wesnesday, the french optoma support team answers me about a new firmware available to fix input lag ( and others stuffs ), i think i will have this one soon to test.

Could you post some links where you have found firmwares C13 C14 C15 ?
Do you know the process to backup / install firmware manually on the projector ?
Does someone has tried the last to measure new input lag ?

Thx


----------



## Christian Spiga

zekonavsforum said:


> Hi,
> 
> I've got the french version since 6 months ( Optoma P1 = Optoma UHZ65UST ), and always on firmware C12 ( always saying it's the last firmware from the integrated update application of the projector )
> 
> Last wesnesday, the french optoma support team answers me about a new firmware available to fix input lag ( and others stuffs ), i think i will have this one soon to test.
> 
> Could you post some links where you have found firmwares C13 C14 C15 ?
> Do you know the process to backup / install firmware manually on the projector ?
> Does someone has tried the last to measure new input lag ?
> 
> Thx


For now you can find the manual firmware update only in the USA Optoma Website, for the Optoma P1 that is the american version of you uhz65ust on this link:

https://www.optoma.com/us/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Firmware_CinemaX-P1.pdf

All the manual updates for the european version that you have, the uhz65ust, are usually send by email by the optoma support of your country.


----------



## Jan L

chinmokutak said:


> Jan L said:
> 
> 
> 
> No, but there are already Updates from cw12 to at least cw15 to bei downloaded from their Website. I have the european uhz65ust, so im not willing to try them.
> 
> I have Seen a protection film/foil on my Lens glass which has some small "Air Bubbles" on it. The Image doesnt seem to suffer but nevertheless, id Like to remove it. Problem: there is nothing to get it off with....is it meant to stay?
> 
> 
> 
> where is CW15 posted?
Click to expand...

https://www.optoma.com/ap/product/p1/ cant find 15, but 14 at least 🙂


----------



## memphisanid

eurovtec said:


> Yes. That’s one other observation. The dimming can happens within the same scene, and when the scene changes.
> The Optoma HQ Taiwan tech side asked me if the dimming happens when the OSD menu goes off.
> Thus yesterday I tested a few more 4K HDR videos at different scenes.
> Out of the many repeated tests, it seems like when we bring up the OSD menu and scroll to the brightness mode to toggle the dynamic black, when the picture brightens and stays brighten when the OSD menu is there.
> And the video dimmed seems to coincide with the OSD menu disappearing.
> I’m repeating the scenes over and over and videoing with my iphone. Looking at the screen to see the dimming and the viewing it on my iPhone and scroll thru the frames to determine if the phenomenon is always the same.
> 
> I’m not sure if the promised to be released fw addresses this phenomenon.
> I wish it does.....


I am having the exact same issue as well. When I can finally get the HDR image to process by switching between 100% and Dynamic Black 1-3 to 50% and then back, it will revert back once I back out of the OSD menu or scene change. Fingers crossed for the new firmaware addressing this issue.


----------



## eurovtec

memphisanid said:


> I am having the exact same issue as well. When I can finally get the HDR image to process by switching between 100% and Dynamic Black 1-3 to 50% and then back, it will revert back once I back out of the OSD menu or scene change. Fingers crossed for the new firmaware addressing this issue.


I just discovered that even with the OSD menu still on screen, once you push the ok button on the remote, the video will dim immediately. Had feedback this to Optoma.


----------



## Jan L

My guess is, that it cant be fixed. If you lower the laser brightness from 100% to 50% you See every 5% step, a Change in colors or a red greyish tint...and that is what is Happening during DB + other stuff. I assume its even going below 50% and above 100% in DB Mode.

Another question: have you experienced color Banding/artifacts on color gradients Like skies? I have tried every setting and turned Off brilliant color but no Chance. Even in Test Images of simple greyscale/ Gradient from black to White, its partly blocky and has a green tint 😞 is it smooth on yours?


----------



## Jan L

Jan L said:


> My guess is, that it cant be fixed. If you lower the laser brightness from 100% to 50% you See every 5% step, a Change in colors or a red greyish tint...and that is what is Happening during DB + other stuff. I assume its even going below 50% and above 100% in DB Mode.
> 
> Another question: have you experienced color Banding/artifacts on color gradients Like skies? I have tried every setting and turned Off brilliant color but no Chance. Even in Test Images of simple greyscale/ Gradient from black to White, its partly blocky and has a green tint 😞 is it smooth on yours?


As you can See in this Image. Tried all HDMI Inputs, 8,10 Bit rec709 2020 and all i could, but no change 😕 broken?


----------



## eurovtec

Jan L said:


> As you can See in this Image. Tried all HDMI Inputs, 8,10 Bit rec709 2020 and all i could, but no change 😕 broken?


Hi, I can’t open the pic. Once i click it, it just keep loading. 
Do you have the link to test this banding?

“Another question: have you experienced color Banding/artifacts on color gradients Like skies?” 
U can screen capture some pic?

Also what player u using to send to the projector?


----------



## Jan L

Easiest way is to Download the "calibration TV App" and Open the Gradient Image or any other Gradient.

https://photos.app.*******/KSbatN8YWRpjDaMp6


----------



## Jan L

eurovtec said:


> Jan L said:
> 
> 
> 
> As you can See in this Image. Tried all HDMI Inputs, 8,10 Bit rec709 2020 and all i could, but no change 😕 broken?
> 
> 
> 
> Hi, I canâ€™️t log the pic. Once i click it, it just keep loading.
> Do you have the link to test this banding?
> 
> â€œAnother question: have you experienced color Banding/artifacts on color gradients Like skies?â€
> U can screen capture some pic?
> 
> Also what player u using to send to the projector?
Click to expand...

I can record a few examples in 1 hour. Im using the Nvidia shield with a Denon 4300 but also tried it directly on the Projector, or directly via PC ...its all the Same.

Color Banding is indeed less visible with 4k BluRay content from pc, but not gone. The Test Images looking the Same. When i watch the Same Videos on my Phone i have perfect smooth Transitions 😕


----------



## eurovtec

Jan L said:


> I can record a few examples in 1 hour. Im using the Nvidia shield with a Denon 4300 but also tried it directly on the Projector, or directly via PC ...its all the Same.
> 
> Color Banding is indeed less visible with 4k BluRay content from pc, but not gone. The Test Images looking the Same. When i watch the Same Videos on my Phone i have perfect smooth Transitions 😕


For nvidia shield and PC, the player you are using Is KODI?
I’m using KODI on pc.
Previously on the release version, 4k HDR will have banding & artifacts.
Now I’m using the development version V19 matrix. 
Maybe you can tell me which movie u playing, do some screen capture.
If i got the same movie then i do some screen capture too.


----------



## Jan L

eurovtec said:


> Jan L said:
> 
> 
> 
> I can record a few examples in 1 hour. Im using the Nvidia shield with a Denon 4300 but also tried it directly on the Projector, or directly via PC ...its all the Same.
> 
> Color Banding is indeed less visible with 4k BluRay content from pc, but not gone. The Test Images looking the Same. When i watch the Same Videos on my Phone i have perfect smooth Transitions 😕
> 
> 
> 
> For nvidia shield and PC, the player you are using Is KODI?
Click to expand...

Im not using KODi at all. Just Netflix, YouTube, direct Video Files and so on ...?


----------



## eurovtec

Jan L said:


> Im not using KODi at all. Just Netflix, YouTube, direct Video Files and so on ...?


I off my room lights and play 8K video from YouTube. What banding/artifacts r you referring to?


----------



## Jan L

eurovtec said:


> Jan L said:
> 
> 
> 
> Im not using KODi at all. Just Netflix, YouTube, direct Video Files and so on ...?
> 
> 
> 
> I off my room lights and play 8K video from YouTube. What banding/artifacts r you referring to?
Click to expand...


https://photos.app.*******/RFtTvkrNQbf7BP2AA

Around 50-60 Seconds, the Sky.


https://photos.app.*******/qV5WRSpT8x8GCZFy9

* Edit: ****** qoo.gl with g
I Know those are compressed in YouTube, but on my Phone or pc Monitor they still Look smooth without artifacts.


----------



## Jan L

But I can See from your First Video that yours Looks fine. I doubt it has Something todo with settings, but maybe you could share yours? And maybe a Screenshot of a smooth black to White Gradient? Thank you!


----------



## eurovtec

Jan L said:


> https://photos.app.*******/RFtTvkrNQbf7BP2AA
> 
> Around 50-60 Seconds, the Sky.
> 
> 
> https://photos.app.*******/qV5WRSpT8x8GCZFy9
> 
> * Edit: ****** qoo.gl with g
> I Know those are compressed in YouTube, but on my Phone or pc Monitor they still Look smooth without artifacts.


When i click the links, they cant be loaded.



Jan L said:


> But I can See from your First Video that yours Looks fine. I doubt it has Something todo with settings, but maybe you could share yours? And maybe a Screenshot of a smooth black to White Gradient? Thank you!


I followed these setting that i got online in the forum. It’s for UHZ65UST. But I just use it. 
I use the 4K HDR for HDR & HD setting for SIM HDR.


----------



## Jan L

Thanks for Sharing! Funny Thing is, i have the exact same settings locked in, even if i Set everything Back on Default. Seems my reseller had set those already 😄 

Overall im so impressed with the picture, its only that the simple gradient cant be set correctly ...i have sent a request to optoms now, lets See what they answer.

In regards to the links. You have to replace the ****** with g oo.gl within the url.


----------



## markus767

Jan L said:


> As you can See in this Image. Tried all HDMI Inputs, 8,10 Bit rec709 2020 and all i could, but no change 😕 broken?


Looks like your grayscale calibration is wrong.


----------



## Jan L

markus767 said:


> Jan L said:
> 
> 
> 
> As you can See in this Image. Tried all HDMI Inputs, 8,10 Bit rec709 2020 and all i could, but no change 😕 broken?
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like your grayscale calibration is wrong.
Click to expand...

And how can i calibrate that? Ive just set all settings Back to the calibrated ones above, Same issue

I can Change every color to any extreme but the Green tint is not affected. Only If i reduce the green bias/,gain settings at least -10 and i cant compensate that with other colors..


----------



## markus767

Jan L said:


> And how can i calibrate that? Ive just set all settings Back to the calibrated ones above, Same issue


First you need to make sure that the pattern you're displaying is from a known reference. Way too much can go wrong when looking at YouTube videos.

Then you would need to have a meter and calibration software. The basic process is laid out here for example: http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35322


----------



## Jan L

markus767 said:


> Jan L said:
> 
> 
> 
> And how can i calibrate that? Ive just set all settings Back to the calibrated ones above, Same issue
> 
> 
> 
> First you need to make sure that the pattern you're displaying is from a known reference. Way too much can go wrong when looking at YouTube videos.
> 
> Then you would need to have a meter and calibration software. The basic process is laid out here for example: http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35322
Click to expand...

I thought about doing that already. Same as i did with my Sound System, since audessey failed to please me. BUT shouldnt it be more simple? I can do that by eye at any Monitor (of course far away from perfect) and this "Error* is so obvious and i doubt calibrating all colors etc will even have Impact on those Blocks/vertical lines and Green color tint. 😞


----------



## markus767

Jan L said:


> I thought about doing that already. Same as i did with my Sound System, since audessey failed to please me. BUT shouldnt it be more simple? I can do that by eye at any Monitor (of course far away from perfect) and this "Error* is so obvious and i doubt calibrating all colors etc will even have Impact on those Blocks/vertical lines and Green color tint. 😞


The error might be obvious but the root cause isn't. That's why you need to 1) establish a reference and 2) measure.


----------



## freejak13

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Everyone -- WE apologize for the delay. We have R&D resources in the Wuhan Region and this impacted resources "severely. Unfortunately, Covid-19's impact reaches far and wide.
> 
> We have moved to the release test phase for the new FW. This will last a few weeks. If testing proceeds as expected, we will release the FW in the second half of May into early June.
> 
> Some of the issues that will be addressed and or improved:
> 
> - 1080p 60Hz and 1080p 120Hz input Lag improvement.
> - 4K UHD Input Lag improvement.
> - Gaming Mode Toggle -- Will disable SmartFIT and PureMotion when enabled for optimal performance.
> - Dim image when HDR is enabled and the content is 4K UHD HDR, 4K UHD "Non-HDR" or "SDR". This occurs with some MP4 and .TS files.
> - 4:2:2 8-bit issue with 4:2:2 and 4:4:4 enabled on the source device.
> - Continued improvement of the Image Flickering
> - Improve UI for Focus Function
> 
> I will provide a full list in the near future.
> 
> Questions -- feel free to let me know.


It's past early June now. Hopefully you'll have an update for us soon.


----------



## calvinwalfred

Really hope this update shows up soon. I am not sold on this projector just yet so the update may swing my decision one way or the other. I have until early July to make my final decision. Really hope it shows up soon.


----------



## aohus

Any Optoma representatives here? 

I am quite concerned about Dynamic Black not functioning as it should. Its preventing a brighter picture from displaying giving me a poor overall day time viewing experience. (running C14 FW)

Any update on this firmware? I recently created a post on slickdeals talking about the benefits of this projector, but if this isn't fixed I may need to revise my post and not recommend it. 

1. Dynamic Black initially produces a bright picture, but eventually dims within a few seconds (whether OSD menu is on or off). 
2. Youtube HDR is not properly rendering at 10 bit, resulting in a video that is not renderable. 10 bit working fine on streaming platforms like Netflix/D+
3. HDMI handshake issues resulting in a lag when switching inputs

I will say #1 is a dealbreaker. If this isn't fixed will be forced to return this projector...


----------



## Jan L

Do you also have the issue that manually changing the laser brightness each step Changes the color in a way? 100% has a green tint and 95% already a Red tint and that Changes are visible during the Dynamik black process what makes it also unbearable... 😕


----------



## Christian Spiga

eurovtec said:


> When i click the links, they cant be loaded.
> 
> 
> 
> I followed these setting that i got online in the forum. It’s for UHZ65UST. But I just use it.
> I use the 4K HDR for HDR & HD setting for SIM HDR.


Ahahah, my settings, i post these photos months ago. I'm really happy that are useful to someone.


----------



## eurovtec

Christian Spiga said:


> Ahahah, my settings, i post these photos months ago. I'm really happy that are useful to someone.


Thanks for the great info sharing.
I don’t have a meter to do the measurements so using your settings really helped a lot.
I’m satisfied with the colors after the cal. 
Only hope that the dynamic black issue can be resolved.


----------



## chinmokutak

Christian Spiga said:


> Ahahah, my settings, i post these photos months ago. I'm really happy that are useful to someone.



Thanks for posting this!
A couple of questions, are there anyways to quickly toggle between settings?
Also, I though Dynamics black was something we want to disable, no?


----------



## chadtill

Has anyone been able to get Atmos (via Dolby Digital Plus) through ARC? I can't get my Apple TV 4K or Xbox One X to output Atmos (both say that the receiver does not support it). I'm "up-to-date" on C12 on the USA model.

Sonos Arc Playbar -> HDMI 1 (ARC)
Apple TV 4K -> HDMI 2
Xbox One X -> HDMI 3


----------



## Bruno2284

So i need some feedback on this projector. I plan to buy this projector for outdoor use for football season driveway tailgate parties, The idea I have it so set this projector and screen inside a black tent with the back and both sides being closed out with the black covers, only the front being open. do you think that is enough darkness for this projector to show the picture well enough on a 120 inch scale. here is the tent that I'm thinking.


----------



## stax12

I'm interested in a UST and the P1 in particular. Has anyone compared the P1 to the new Cinemax Pro? Any thoughts about the value for the cost difference?


----------



## Vyom Gaipal

*UST 4k Laser projector.*

Hello everyone.Hope you are all still safe!
I really hope someone would be able to help me out here with this.
Current situation- I live in a company flat on my own in middle east and frequently use freight forwarding service from US to get cheap stuff. Hence need a good product with worldwide warranty would be great. Relatively new in A/V world. Currently own 5.1.2 AVR setup with a HTPC and very well content with the sound. In video, currently a cheap ~$100 LED projector for a 135inch diagonal to try out/fill the gap while I make the big purchase.
Requirement -Taking into account current technology present is- A laser based ,4K HDR, short throw projector to go in my living room with reasonable light control with heavy curtains. Content wise- 60% streaming/HTPC movies, 30% console or PC solo gaming and 10% sports viewing.
Contenders-So far, LG HU85LA, Optima CinemaX P1,Optima CinemaX Pro. I have spent hours of reading avs, projector reviews, central and youtubing and splitting hairs and going in circles making up my mind. If somebody own any of these and can chime in with their experience it'll be a big help. These are the points I have so far to work with-
LG HU85LA- Pros*:* Better colors, single shift upscale to 4K, better contrast ratios, shorter throw distance.
Cons: Price, 2700ANSI lumen, 120inch official display
Optima cinemaX p1 Pros: Good value for money for image quality
Cons: Throw distance, double shift upscale, lag while gaming. 120 inch official
Optima cinemaX Pro Pros : Better contrast and Lumens (3500) supposedly
Cons : ? (cannot find any details/reviews online)

Also I can happily wait till November for Black Friday/Cyber Monday deals if they would save me some bucks significantly and/or a better product comes along in next few months.


----------



## Vyom Gaipal

stax12 said:


> I'm interested in a UST and the P1 in particular. Has anyone compared the P1 to the new Cinemax Pro? Any thoughts about the value for the cost difference?


I'm looking for the same information. However it seems it snuck in quietly with very similar name and its difficult to find any specific review on it.


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

Hi guys the Cinemax Pro is basically what us Brits (also rest of Europe) had from the start and for us is called UHZ65UST. There’s quite a few reviews out there.. e.g https://7review.com/optoma-uhz65ust-review/ 

My opinion would be to of course go for the Pro, I own the UHZ65UST and the more lumenes over the P1 will definitely help with HDR content along with daytime viewing.


----------



## Vyom Gaipal

Thanks for the clarification Ian, any chance you got to compare the said model with the lg hu85la (or the equivalent european model)?


----------



## eurovtec

Vyom Gaipal said:


> Thanks for the clarification Ian, any chance you got to compare the said model with the lg hu85la (or the equivalent european model)?


LG is much more expensive than Optoma.
LG is full android OS so it has more apps to download.
Optoma “android marketplace” has very little apps.
But since you have a HTPC, you will probably use the pc more often than the apps.
For projectors, people try to go for higher lumens. 
But some people may like the brand more. 
There are lots of reviews of both UST projectors on youtube. 
I think most of the people get the Optoma is due to the price with respect to performance & design.
LG is much more expensive but the difference is not great.


----------



## eurovtec

Bruno2284 said:


> So i need some feedback on this projector. I plan to buy this projector for outdoor use for football season driveway tailgate parties, The idea I have it so set this projector and screen inside a black tent with the back and both sides being closed out with the black covers, only the front being open. do you think that is enough darkness for this projector to show the picture well enough on a 120 inch scale. here is the tent that I'm thinking.


If depth of your tent is long and your screen is an ALR screen, it shouldnt be a problem.
I find that it’s the overhead & side lightings that will affect the brightness/contrast. 
The depth of the tent also plays a part. As Long as sunlight cannot shine directly on the screen. 
My screen is away from the window & if you search on youtube, many reviews shows the screen looks good when the windows is some distance away from the screen.


----------



## milacqua

I have a Carada Brilliant White screen I have used for several years with my Epson projector mounted projector. If I go to a ust projector like the P1, will I need a new screen? I have heard regular screens are not good for ust projectors but don't know why not.


----------



## eurovtec

milacqua said:


> I have a Carada Brilliant White screen I have used for several years with my Epson projector mounted projector. If I go to a ust projector like the P1, will I need a new screen? I have heard regular screens are not good for ust projectors but don't know why not.


Yup, i also read before regular screen for Long throw pj not suitable for UST pj.
If i remembered correctly, it will be hotspots on the screen. 
I think many, if not all of people who owned a UST pj will use ALR screen.
I bought my P1 and project on the wall first. 
It’s nice and acceptable, but u know that’s not the ultimate performance of the pj.
Cos like fellow forum members mentioned, it will really bring out the imperfections of your wall.
So i bought a ALR screen.

Thus, I think you can just buy the projector first and try on your screen. 
It’s never too late to buy an ALR screen later.


----------



## milacqua

eurovtec said:


> Yup, i also read before regular screen for Long throw pj not suitable for UST pj.
> If i remembered correctly, it will be hotspots on the screen.
> I think many, if not all of people who owned a UST pj will use ALR screen.
> I bought my P1 and project on the wall first.
> It’s nice and acceptable, but u know that’s not the ultimate performance of the pj.
> Cos like fellow forum members mentioned, it will really bring out the imperfections of your wall.
> So i bought a ALR screen.
> 
> Thus, I think you can just buy the projector first and try on your screen.
> It’s never too late to buy an ALR screen later.


Thanks, that is just what I need.


----------



## calvinwalfred

milacqua said:


> I have a Carada Brilliant White screen I have used for several years with my Epson projector mounted projector. If I go to a ust projector like the P1, will I need a new screen? I have heard regular screens are not good for ust projectors but don't know why not.


I project onto a Elite CineWhite 1.1 gain screen. If you can control the ambient light that bounces off the ceiling from the projector the image should great. I am projecting a 120" image onto a 135" screen and it looks great. I am controlling the ambient light that bounces off the ceiling from the projector with a type of black velvet material. This weekend I did a test to see if the I could use the whole 135" of the screen with the projector. I can. The image was still focused over the entire screen and looked great. One day I may go with one of those ALR screens if the prices ever go down. For now my Elite CineWhite screen works for me as I do not view with the lights on.


----------



## milacqua

calvinwalfred said:


> I project onto a Elite CineWhite, 1.1 Gain screen. If you can control the ambient light that bounces off the ceiling from the projector the image should great. I am projecting a 120" onto my screen and it looks great. I am controlling the ambient light that bounces off the ceiling with a type of black velvet. This weekend I did a test to see if the I could use the whole 135" of the screen with the projector. I can. The image was still focused over the entire screen and looked great. One day I may go with one of those ALR screens if the prices ever go down. For now my Elite CineWhite screen works for me.


Looks like it might be worth a try with the screen I have and see what happens. My Carada might work for me too. Thanks.


----------



## calvinwalfred

milacqua said:


> Looks like it might be worth a try with the screen I have and see what happens. My Carada might work for me too. Thanks.


I do not know how well it will work if you plan to watch with the lights on. I view with the lights off. Give it a try and see how it goes.


----------



## MarcusD777

calvinwalfred said:


> I project onto a Elite CineWhite 1.1 gain screen. If you can control the ambient light that bounces off the ceiling from the projector the image should great. I am projecting a 120" image onto a 135" screen and it looks great. I am controlling the ambient light that bounces off the ceiling from the projector with a type of black velvet material. This weekend I did a test to see if the I could use the whole 135" of the screen with the projector. I can. The image was still focused over the entire screen and looked great. One day I may go with one of those ALR screens if the prices ever go down. For now my Elite CineWhite screen works for me as I do not view with the lights on.


I have the same screen at 135" and can report that I can get close to full sharpness corner to corner with the Optoma P1 at this size. Nothing that is noticeable when viewing any content on screen. Do you have any pics of the black velvet material you are using for your ceiling?


----------



## calvinwalfred

MarcusD777 said:


> I have the same screen at 135" and can report that I can get close to full sharpness corner to corner with the Optoma P1 at this size. Nothing that is noticeable when viewing any content on screen. Do you have any pics of the black velvet material you are using for your ceiling?


This is what I am using, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TWZJ8NZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I do not recommend it as it has an adhesive backing and will peal the paint from your ceiling. Better options can be found here, https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...srp/1465053-blacker-theater-better-image.html.


----------



## simoes

*Finally, almost done*

Wanted to thank everyone in this forum for sharing valuable information that I was able to use and put together my home theater. Just have a couple cables/wires to hide and I'm done!


----------



## eurovtec

simoes said:


> Wanted to thank everyone in this forum for sharing valuable information that I was able to use and put together my home theater. Just have a couple cables/wires to hide and I'm done!


Hi may i know where did you get your Center spk stand?
Thanks.


----------



## simoes

eurovtec said:


> Hi may i know where did you get your Center spk stand?
> Thanks.


VTI Manufacturing DFC 13 in. H Iron Center Channel Speaker Stand - Black - ebay


----------



## eurovtec

simoes said:


> VTI Manufacturing DFC 13 in. H Iron Center Channel Speaker Stand - Black - ebay


Hi Simoes, thanks!!!


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

Everyone, we apologize for the delay. While we had targeted the FW release for the first half of this month (June) we are still not ready to release. 

"I" rejected the last build as we need to improve some timing information and others aspects as we finalize resolving the 4:2:2 8-bit issue. My expectation is that we deliver the fix along with improved OSD timing information so that owners do not need to be uncertain about exactly which mode the Projector is operating in. 

With that said, I will provide an update on the release date early to middle next week. 

As stated previously the fix will resolve many issues:

1. Improve the occasional flashing issue. 

2. Resolve 10-bit 4:2:2 and 12-bit 4:2:2 being displayed at 8-bit 4:2:2. 

3. Resolve 4K HDR BT. 2020 signal being displayed as 4K HDR BT.709. 

4. Display Mode issue -- After HDR content is displayed, Projector fails to fall back to previous Display Mode. 

5. Alexa Timeout Issue (example: Living Room is not responding). 

6. Improve Input Lag -- 4k60 will be 70-75ms and 1080p60 will also be 70-75ms -- down from over 100ms. 

7. Game Mode - Enabling will automatically disable SmartFIT and PureMotion (and 3D if enabled). Disabling Game Mode will return SmartFIT and PureMotion to their previous values. Enabled is required to meet the input lag in 6. 

8. Add TapCast -- Casting and Screen Mirror support. Casting supports User Generated Content. 

9. Few other minor fixes (will detail in a few future). 

The upcoming release will target CinemaX P1 and CinemaX PRO. 

Again, apologize for the delay but we strive to make sure the new build will address the major and minor issues with the projector. I have a higher standard than most and was not OK with releasing a build that I deemed substandard. 

Any questions -- please let me know.


----------



## Kev1000000

Thank you for the update! This sounds very promising. Just some feedback in the future, some of these are more critical than others, and smaller more frequent releases would have made owning this projector early a lot more palatable, but I do love each one of these line items, so kudos to adding some great stuff.


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

I agree completely (on the updates). 

Normally, this would have been the case but Covid-19 wrecked our schedule and development. In the future, releases will be more frequent (as originally planned). 

Stay tuned. 



Kev1000000 said:


> Thank you for the update! This sounds very promising. Just some feedback in the future, some of these are more critical than others, and smaller more frequent releases would have made owning this projector early a lot more palatable, but I do love each one of these line items, so kudos to adding some great stuff.


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

Images larger than 120" -- CinemaX P1 and CinemaX PRO support 85-120". Using a larger image is "unsupported" but doable. The biggest issue will be the lack of focus at the corners. With tolerance varying from lens to lens, some may achieve larger sizes (140" for example) and others may not (without the focus issue). Please keep this in mind when attempting to use an image larger 120".


----------



## Kdub69

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Everyone, we apologize for the delay. While we had targeted the FW release for the first half of this month (June) we are still not ready to release.
> 
> "I" rejected the last build as we need to improve some timing information and others aspects as we finalize resolving the 4:2:2 8-bit issue. My expectation is that we deliver the fix along with improved OSD timing information so that owners do not need to be uncertain about exactly which mode the Projector is operating in.
> 
> With that said, I will provide an update on the release date early to middle next week.
> 
> As stated previously the fix will resolve many issues:
> 
> 1. Improve the occasion flashing issue.
> 
> 2. Resolve 10-bit 4:2:2 and 12-bit 4:2:2 being displayed at 8-bit 4:2:2.
> 
> 3. Resolve 4K HDR BT. 2020 signal being displayed as 4K HDR BT.709.
> 
> 4. Display Mode issue -- After HDR content is displayed, Projector fails to fall back to previous Display Mode.
> 
> 5. Alexa Timeout Issue (example: Living Room is not responding).
> 
> 6. Improve Input Lag -- 4k60 will be 70-75ms and 1080p60 will also be 70-75ms -- down from over 100ms.
> 
> 7. Game Mode - Enabling will automatically disable SmartFIT and PureMotion (and 3D if enabled). Disabling Game Mode will return SmartFIT and PureMotion to their previous values. Enabled is required to meet the input lag in 6.
> 
> 8. Add TapCast -- Casting and Screen Mirror support. Casting is supports User Generated Content.
> 
> 9. Few other minor fixes (will detail in a few future).
> 
> The upcoming release will target CinemaX P1 and CinemaX PRO.
> 
> Again, apologize for the delay but we strive to make sure the new build will address the major and minor issues with the projector. I have a higher standard than most and was not OK with releasing a build that I deemed substandard.
> 
> Any questions -- please let me know.



Thanks for the great work just another quick question is this the best that the input lag could be fixed to? 70-75ms I know it was first advertised to be 60ms will this be worked on in the future? Very greatful to try out the 70-75ms for sure!


----------



## eurovtec

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Everyone, we apologize for the delay. While we had targeted the FW release for the first half of this month (June) we are still not ready to release.
> 
> "I" rejected the last build as we need to improve some timing information and others aspects as we finalize resolving the 4:2:2 8-bit issue. My expectation is that we deliver the fix along with improved OSD timing information so that owners do not need to be uncertain about exactly which mode the Projector is operating in.
> 
> With that said, I will provide an update on the release date early to middle next week.
> 
> As stated previously the fix will resolve many issues:
> 
> 1. Improve the occasion flashing issue.
> 
> 2. Resolve 10-bit 4:2:2 and 12-bit 4:2:2 being displayed at 8-bit 4:2:2.
> 
> 3. Resolve 4K HDR BT. 2020 signal being displayed as 4K HDR BT.709.
> 
> 4. Display Mode issue -- After HDR content is displayed, Projector fails to fall back to previous Display Mode.
> 
> 5. Alexa Timeout Issue (example: Living Room is not responding).
> 
> 6. Improve Input Lag -- 4k60 will be 70-75ms and 1080p60 will also be 70-75ms -- down from over 100ms.
> 
> 7. Game Mode - Enabling will automatically disable SmartFIT and PureMotion (and 3D if enabled). Disabling Game Mode will return SmartFIT and PureMotion to their previous values. Enabled is required to meet the input lag in 6.
> 
> 8. Add TapCast -- Casting and Screen Mirror support. Casting is supports User Generated Content.
> 
> 9. Few other minor fixes (will detail in a few future).
> 
> The upcoming release will target CinemaX P1 and CinemaX PRO.
> 
> Again, apologize for the delay but we strive to make sure the new build will address the major and minor issues with the projector. I have a higher standard than most and was not OK with releasing a build that I deemed substandard.
> 
> Any questions -- please let me know.


Hi, I’m not sure the difference between USA model & Asia model cos the specs looks the same.
I have TapCast installed in my P1 after upgrading from C12 to C14.
What is Tapcast meant for actually? 
I’ve got no problem mirroring my iPad Pro on the screen, the PJ will have a slight delay on the motion.
It will be taking up only the centre portion of the ALR screen.
I’ve been unsuccessful to play video on my iPad Pro and mirror it on the PJ, it takes forever to load.


----------



## legnaz

I have the original firmware installed. Do you guys recommend manually installing a newer firmware from optomas web site?


----------



## aohus

i just realized after getting the P1 calibrated by a professional that it was done in User mode. After reviewing at the manual, it looks as though ISF service menu can be enabled. What is the service code to access the menu?

edit: found the code from earlier in thread

power, up, down, up, up

if anyone needs additional testing i can gladly assist!


----------



## zekonavsforum

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Everyone, we apologize for the delay. While we had targeted the FW release for the first half of this month (June) we are still not ready to release.
> 
> "I" rejected the last build as we need to improve some timing information and others aspects as we finalize resolving the 4:2:2 8-bit issue. My expectation is that we deliver the fix along with improved OSD timing information so that owners do not need to be uncertain about exactly which mode the Projector is operating in.
> 
> With that said, I will provide an update on the release date early to middle next week.
> 
> As stated previously the fix will resolve many issues:
> 
> 1. Improve the occasion flashing issue.
> 
> 2. Resolve 10-bit 4:2:2 and 12-bit 4:2:2 being displayed at 8-bit 4:2:2.
> 
> 3. Resolve 4K HDR BT. 2020 signal being displayed as 4K HDR BT.709.
> 
> 4. Display Mode issue -- After HDR content is displayed, Projector fails to fall back to previous Display Mode.
> 
> 5. Alexa Timeout Issue (example: Living Room is not responding).
> 
> 6. Improve Input Lag -- 4k60 will be 70-75ms and 1080p60 will also be 70-75ms -- down from over 100ms.
> 
> 7. Game Mode - Enabling will automatically disable SmartFIT and PureMotion (and 3D if enabled). Disabling Game Mode will return SmartFIT and PureMotion to their previous values. Enabled is required to meet the input lag in 6.
> 
> 8. Add TapCast -- Casting and Screen Mirror support. Casting is supports User Generated Content.
> 
> 9. Few other minor fixes (will detail in a few future).
> 
> The upcoming release will target CinemaX P1 and CinemaX PRO.
> 
> Again, apologize for the delay but we strive to make sure the new build will address the major and minor issues with the projector. I have a higher standard than most and was not OK with releasing a build that I deemed substandard.
> 
> Any questions -- please let me know.


Thanks Optoma Dude, can't wait to have it ! I'm in France and have it since december 2019 : here the model P1 is called UZH65UST, and french optoma support team doesn't have these new firmware informations... Do you know if will be able to use this new P1 firmware directly on my european version UHZ65UST ?


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

No worries -- the FW is for all models: CinemaX P1, CinemaX PRO and UHZ65UST. 🙂



zekonavsforum said:


> OPTOMA PM DUDE said:
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone, we apologize for the delay. While we had targeted the FW release for the first half of this month (June) we are still not ready to release.
> 
> "I" rejected the last build as we need to improve some timing information and others aspects as we finalize resolving the 4:2:2 8-bit issue. My expectation is that we deliver the fix along with improved OSD timing information so that owners do not need to be uncertain about exactly which mode the Projector is operating in.
> 
> With that said, I will provide an update on the release date early to middle next week.
> 
> As stated previously the fix will resolve many issues:
> 
> 1. Improve the occasion flashing issue.
> 
> 2. Resolve 10-bit 4:2:2 and 12-bit 4:2:2 being displayed at 8-bit 4:2:2.
> 
> 3. Resolve 4K HDR BT. 2020 signal being displayed as 4K HDR BT.709.
> 
> 4. Display Mode issue -- After HDR content is displayed, Projector fails to fall back to previous Display Mode.
> 
> 5. Alexa Timeout Issue (example: Living Room is not responding).
> 
> 6. Improve Input Lag -- 4k60 will be 70-75ms and 1080p60 will also be 70-75ms -- down from over 100ms.
> 
> 7. Game Mode - Enabling will automatically disable SmartFIT and PureMotion (and 3D if enabled). Disabling Game Mode will return SmartFIT and PureMotion to their previous values. Enabled is required to meet the input lag in 6.
> 
> 8. Add TapCast -- Casting and Screen Mirror support. Casting is supports User Generated Content.
> 
> 9. Few other minor fixes (will detail in a few future).
> 
> The upcoming release will target CinemaX P1 and CinemaX PRO.
> 
> Again, apologize for the delay but we strive to make sure the new build will address the major and minor issues with the projector. I have a higher standard than most and was not OK with releasing a build that I deemed substandard.
> 
> Any questions -- please let me know.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Optoma Dude, can't wait to have it ! I'm in France and have it since december 2019 : here the model P1 is called UZH65UST, and french optoma support team doesn't have these new firmware informations... Do you know if will be able to use this new P1 firmware directly on my european version UHZ65UST ?
Click to expand...


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

Currently, it is the best we can do. One is the reasons for the delay was to work on input lagp. 4K and 1080p had separate solutions. If anything changes, I will definitely let everyone know. 



Kdub69 said:


> OPTOMA PM DUDE said:
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone, we apologize for the delay. While we had targeted the FW release for the first half of this month (June) we are still not ready to release.
> 
> "I" rejected the last build as we need to improve some timing information and others aspects as we finalize resolving the 4:2:2 8-bit issue. My expectation is that we deliver the fix along with improved OSD timing information so that owners do not need to be uncertain about exactly which mode the Projector is operating in.
> 
> With that said, I will provide an update on the release date early to middle next week.
> 
> As stated previously the fix will resolve many issues:
> 
> 1. Improve the occasion flashing issue.
> 
> 2. Resolve 10-bit 4:2:2 and 12-bit 4:2:2 being displayed at 8-bit 4:2:2.
> 
> 3. Resolve 4K HDR BT. 2020 signal being displayed as 4K HDR BT.709.
> 
> 4. Display Mode issue -- After HDR content is displayed, Projector fails to fall back to previous Display Mode.
> 
> 5. Alexa Timeout Issue (example: Living Room is not responding).
> 
> 6. Improve Input Lag -- 4k60 will be 70-75ms and 1080p60 will also be 70-75ms -- down from over 100ms.
> 
> 7. Game Mode - Enabling will automatically disable SmartFIT and PureMotion (and 3D if enabled). Disabling Game Mode will return SmartFIT and PureMotion to their previous values. Enabled is required to meet the input lag in 6.
> 
> 8. Add TapCast -- Casting and Screen Mirror support. Casting is supports User Generated Content.
> 
> 9. Few other minor fixes (will detail in a few future).
> 
> The upcoming release will target CinemaX P1 and CinemaX PRO.
> 
> Again, apologize for the delay but we strive to make sure the new build will address the major and minor issues with the projector. I have a higher standard than most and was not OK with releasing a build that I deemed substandard.
> 
> Any questions -- please let me know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the great work just another quick question is this the best that the input lag could be fixed to? 70-75ms I know it was first advertised to be 60ms will this be worked on in the future? Very greatful to try out the 70-75ms for sure!
Click to expand...


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

Asia moved forward with C14 without some of the fixes. TapCast is for casting and screen mirror. If you are attempting to cast or screen mirror with 4K video, I strongly suggest using 5Ghz Wi-Fi or Ethernet. Keep in mind that some high bitrate video and 4K60 (video) may provide problematic on WiFi (5Ghz). 

What type of video?



eurovtec said:


> OPTOMA PM DUDE said:
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone, we apologize for the delay. While we had targeted the FW release for the first half of this month (June) we are still not ready to release.
> 
> "I" rejected the last build as we need to improve some timing information and others aspects as we finalize resolving the 4:2:2 8-bit issue. My expectation is that we deliver the fix along with improved OSD timing information so that owners do not need to be uncertain about exactly which mode the Projector is operating in.
> 
> With that said, I will provide an update on the release date early to middle next week.
> 
> As stated previously the fix will resolve many issues:
> 
> 1. Improve the occasion flashing issue.
> 
> 2. Resolve 10-bit 4:2:2 and 12-bit 4:2:2 being displayed at 8-bit 4:2:2.
> 
> 3. Resolve 4K HDR BT. 2020 signal being displayed as 4K HDR BT.709.
> 
> 4. Display Mode issue -- After HDR content is displayed, Projector fails to fall back to previous Display Mode.
> 
> 5. Alexa Timeout Issue (example: Living Room is not responding).
> 
> 6. Improve Input Lag -- 4k60 will be 70-75ms and 1080p60 will also be 70-75ms -- down from over 100ms.
> 
> 7. Game Mode - Enabling will automatically disable SmartFIT and PureMotion (and 3D if enabled). Disabling Game Mode will return SmartFIT and PureMotion to their previous values. Enabled is required to meet the input lag in 6.
> 
> 8. Add TapCast -- Casting and Screen Mirror support. Casting is supports User Generated Content.
> 
> 9. Few other minor fixes (will detail in a few future).
> 
> The upcoming release will target CinemaX P1 and CinemaX PRO.
> 
> Again, apologize for the delay but we strive to make sure the new build will address the major and minor issues with the projector. I have a higher standard than most and was not OK with releasing a build that I deemed substandard.
> 
> Any questions -- please let me know.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi, Iâ€™️m not sure the difference between USA model & Asia model cos the specs looks the same.
> I have TapCast installed in my P1 after upgrading from C12 to C14.
> What is Tapcast meant for actually?
> Iâ€™️ve got no problem mirroring my iPad Pro on the screen, the PJ will have a slight delay on the motion.
> It will be taking up only the centre portion of the ALR screen.
> Iâ€™️ve been unsuccessful to play video on my iPad Pro and mirror it on the PJ, it takes forever to load.
Click to expand...


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

You are on C09? 

If so, yes. You can download C12 from the website (actually a link to Dropbox - for manual install using USB drive). When the new build is available in the coming weeks, you can download via OTA or download from website and upgrade via USB Flash Drive. 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/a2fy1tci5jp073y/CinemaX_P1_C12_USB_Update.zip?dl=0



legnaz said:


> I have the original firmware installed. Do you guys recommend manually installing a newer firmware from optomas web site?


----------



## eurovtec

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Asia moved forward with C14 without some of the fixes. TapCast is for casting and screen mirror. If you are attempting to cast or screen mirror with 4K video, I strongly suggest using 5Ghz Wi-Fi or Ethernet. Keep in mind that some high bitrate video and 4K60 (video) may provide problematic on WiFi (5Ghz).
> 
> What type of video?


Hi Optoma Dude, I was just mirroring thru Netflix app.
I also try using VLC(video player app) on iOS and play Anime One punch man, regular Mkv video file around 1gig plus stored in ipad.
Both methods will show loading in progress for a Long time.
I don’t think i will use the Tapcast since I’m using a HTPC to the P1. 
So all is good except the HDR videos becomes dim after while & switching of brightness options(dynamic black1 to brightness 100% to Dynamic black1) & video contrast/brightness will be so awesome but turn dim after a while. Not sure do they belong to the same issue. 

Really appreciate your effort on making sure that quality is upheld at Optoma. 
It would be great that the new firmware resolves the HDR & dynamic black issue & the respective concerns highlighted by fellow users. 
Thanks!


----------



## mttjj

Thanks for the update. Hopefully it's not too much longer before it's released.

There were some previous discussions around freezing issues with certain types of videos from AppleTV (I'm unable to post links but if you append "#post59187578" to the end of the URL for this thread you can find it. Or go to page 68 and find post #2020 .) I have 100% experienced this issue and can 100% consistently recreate the issue at specific points in films. The workaround mentioned in the post to does work for me but I was wondering if this update will fix the issue? Is that what is meant by #1 in your list below?

If this fix is not included in this release can you confirm that you are aware of the issue and working on a fix? I can also provide configuration settings, movies, timestamps, etc to help you troubleshoot.



OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Everyone, we apologize for the delay. While we had targeted the FW release for the first half of this month (June) we are still not ready to release.
> 
> "I" rejected the last build as we need to improve some timing information and others aspects as we finalize resolving the 4:2:2 8-bit issue. My expectation is that we deliver the fix along with improved OSD timing information so that owners do not need to be uncertain about exactly which mode the Projector is operating in.
> 
> With that said, I will provide an update on the release date early to middle next week.
> 
> As stated previously the fix will resolve many issues:
> 
> 1. Improve the occasion flashing issue.
> 
> 2. Resolve 10-bit 4:2:2 and 12-bit 4:2:2 being displayed at 8-bit 4:2:2.
> 
> 3. Resolve 4K HDR BT. 2020 signal being displayed as 4K HDR BT.709.
> 
> 4. Display Mode issue -- After HDR content is displayed, Projector fails to fall back to previous Display Mode.
> 
> 5. Alexa Timeout Issue (example: Living Room is not responding).
> 
> 6. Improve Input Lag -- 4k60 will be 70-75ms and 1080p60 will also be 70-75ms -- down from over 100ms.
> 
> 7. Game Mode - Enabling will automatically disable SmartFIT and PureMotion (and 3D if enabled). Disabling Game Mode will return SmartFIT and PureMotion to their previous values. Enabled is required to meet the input lag in 6.
> 
> 8. Add TapCast -- Casting and Screen Mirror support. Casting is supports User Generated Content.
> 
> 9. Few other minor fixes (will detail in a few future).
> 
> The upcoming release will target CinemaX P1 and CinemaX PRO.
> 
> Again, apologize for the delay but we strive to make sure the new build will address the major and minor issues with the projector. I have a higher standard than most and was not OK with releasing a build that I deemed substandard.
> 
> Any questions -- please let me know.


----------



## diggumsmax

General question. Is the main reason for these high lag times due to the pixel shifting? I believe someone mentioned that UST projectors have to intentionally distort the image to display correctly. I did some research and there is no clear answer on this. With that said, I'm pretty positive it's the pixel shifting due to the 1080p chipz. When looking at some of the first gen 1080p UST projectors, I believe the optoma 1080p UST lag time was 35ms. 

Epson, on paper, is claiming 35ms. Is this due to LCD vs DLP? I don't believe the Epson is a native 4K UST projector, it uses pixel shifting as well. There really aren't ANY cheap native 4K projectors right now and the cheapest are standard throw. I think Ben Q has a native UHD/4K standard throw projector that is between 3.5 and 4 but that is the cheapest native 4K projecuat the moment (correct me if I'm wrong) This makes me think that once they start using UHD chips, the lag issue will be acceptable to anyone except the most hardcore gamers, is that correct or is there more to it?

LG is 75ms
Vava is 90ms
All Xiamio 4K is above 50ms for 4K, but lower on the older 1080p model

All the above was done by doing some brief research. Since a lot of manufacturers don't list lag, I'm going by professional reviews of the various models. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

eurovtec said:


> Hi Optoma Dude, I was just mirroring thru Netflix app.
> I also try using VLC(video player app) on iOS and play Anime One punch man, regular Mkv video file around 1gig plus stored in ipad.
> Both methods will show loading in progress for a Long time.
> I don’t think i will use the Tapcast since I’m using a HTPC to the P1.
> So all is good except the HDR videos becomes dim after while & switching of brightness options(dynamic black1 to brightness 100% to Dynamic black1) & video contrast/brightness will be so awesome but turn dim after a while. Not sure do they belong to the same issue.
> 
> Really appreciate your effort on making sure that quality is upheld at Optoma.
> It would be great that the new firmware resolves the HDR & dynamic black issue & the respective concerns highlighted by fellow users.
> Thanks!


Someone had brought this up at some point in this thread. Screen mirroring tends to be laggy in general, no matter the device. You probably already know this but with something like a Chromecast, your phone is simply sending the link to the Chromecast and you get to use your phone as the remote. This allows the display to do all the processing. With screen mirroring, I believe the issue is your phone is sending all the RAW data, there is no (or not as much) processing done by the display. I'm not sure about the P1, but most mirroring is done over Wi-Fi Direct due to the bandwidth needed which is just a direct wifi connection from your phone (or tables) to the P1. I don't believe Blu tooth can handle the bandwidth but I could be wrong as I have not tried this feature on my P1. Right now, NFC is primarily what Wi-Fi Direct is used for. They tried Wi-Fi Direct with smart devices but it didn't work out for various reasons. 

So, I went ahead and tried it out to see what results I would get. Full disclosure, I'm on Android 11 Beta. The Tapcast app would connect but not share my phone screen when I connected and restarted each time, then I saw that it had to be on the same WiFi network per the Tapcast app on the P1, which I though was odd because Wi-Fi Direct does not need this. My P1 is on ethernet so I joined the same WiFi network but it still wouldn't connect. I then unplugged my network cable (none of this should be necessary) and it connected. I was able to cast my phone once, then the app instantly crashed. I could display pictures from my phe and control the P1 screen with no isssues but it would not reconnect.

At this point I just tried to connect with the built in Screen Cast feature in Android and Tapcast-xxxx was right there in the list with my shield and vizio tv, it connected on the first attempt, opened VLC, tried to play something and it sat on the loading screen for a minute before I closed VLC. Opened Plex, was able to play a 1.7Mbps video file, a 9Mbps video file and ever a 4k HDR Movie at 48Mpbs. No studdering but the color looked crazy, probably because my phone isn't HDR and I wasn't even expecting it to work at that bitrate as it was streaming from my media server to my phone, then to the P1. The odd thing is the screen flickered a few times like an HDMI dropout during all three videos but at this point HDMI is not being used. 

I was actually quite impressed. I tried to use Android 11's new screen recorder feature so I could upload it to show but it would disconnect from the P1 every time I started recording. I then disconnected my phone, disconnected my P1 from Wifi, and plugged back into the ethernet cable and I was able to connect instantly with Android Screen Cast.... 

All this is puzzling because the whole point of Wi-Fi direct is that it's a direct connection between devices. It honestly shouldn't even have to be on the same network (in theory). Anyways, those were my results, if you have iOS, try using a different media player or, use AirPlay and a different media player, and see what results you get. AirPlay and Android Screen Cast both use Wi-Fi-Direct, so this should work using AirPlay but I don't have any apple devices to test. I have not had much success with any of Optoma's software outside of the screenfit feature which works great but as I already said, I'm on a beta version of Android 11 so I can't point the blame at the app either. 

With all that said, copying to HTPC will be stable and you won't hit any hicups so that would still be the best route IMO unless you wanted to play a quick recording you shot on your phone or something like that. Not a full movie but that is your decision to make. I will say that I think Optoma went the wrong route with this butchered version of Android they are using. I know there was possibly some licensing dispute which is why the apps are limited. A lot of UST PJ's are like this even when running pretty much vanilla android but I blame that on Google for not allowing stuff, probably due to money but I do not like any of the Ui outside the menu and side menu. I NEVER go to the home screen.


----------



## eurovtec

@OPTOMA PM DUDE, will we see the P1 supporting Dolby vision with a firmware update?


----------



## aohus

eurovtec said:


> @OPTOMA PM DUDE, will we see the P1 supporting Dolby vision with a firmware update?


i doubt there will ever be DV support. There are no UST projectors on the market that can do DV.


----------



## Kev1000000

@OPTOMA PM DUDE, one last thing, is there a way to turn on the projector with local TCP/IP commands? The IFTTT integration works like 20% of the time for me. Would love to send some local commands to the projector to tie it into my home automation system with much more reliability.


----------



## Tenari

Kev1000000 said:


> @OPTOMA PM DUDE, one last thing, is there a way to turn on the projector with local TCP/IP commands? The IFTTT integration works like 20% of the time for me. Would love to send some local commands to the projector to tie it into my home automation system with much more reliability.



I’m guessing that’s going to be fixed in C15 — he mentioned that the “Alexa not responding” was going to be fixed — which afaik uses the same API as IFTTT.

I would love if they added PJLink like other Optoma projectors but would settle for IFTTT and Alexa working OK.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## eurovtec

aohus said:


> i doubt there will ever be DV support. There are no UST projectors on the market that can do DV.


I’m wondering if HD fury will help on that.


----------



## USTGuy

I have owned the Vava for 1 week and just recently ordered and received this Optoma so that I can out them both to the test.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but does or does not this Optoma display 4K HDR in BT2020? I'm confused from reading previous posts.


----------



## Smokey100

*P1 FW update?*

I've got a questions form the Optoma Guy...

I was having a number of issues with my P1:
The tint would shift back and forth 
There were flashes of images that looked a little solarized with green patches
The audio would get very loud when theme music was playing

I had sent it in for repair and I got a message back that a part was replaced. Now I'm wondering if the FW update would have addressed those issues. 

When I got the unit back I didn't mess with the settings. Streamed videos looked better, the contrast was better and the color seemed better. After a couple weeks I decided to look at the settings, the color was set to gaming. I'm surprised that movies and TV shows didn't look over saturated. I think I have a pretty good eye, I design TV commercials, overseeing the color correction is part of the whole process. 

I still have some flashes of posterized frames. I think they only happen when watching a British show. I stream them from Amazon and Netflix, both from their U.S. service and I'm in the U.S.. When I start them I usually see a message that says adjusting frame rate. Is that the problem?

Thanks,

Bryan


----------



## arsenalfc89

USTGuy said:


> I have owned the Vava for 1 week and just recently ordered and received this Optoma so that I can out them both to the test.
> Correct me if I'm wrong, but does or does not this Optoma display 4K HDR in BT2020? I'm confused from reading previous posts.


So what are you noticing between both UST? Do you have a preference or are black levels better on Vava like some reviews state?

Thanks,


----------



## chadtill

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Any questions -- please let me know.


Hi Optoma PM Dude - I'm having troubles getting Atmos (via Dolby Digital Plus) through ARC. I can't get my Apple TV 4K or Xbox One X to output Atmos (both say that the receiver does not support it). I'm "up-to-date" on C12 on the USA model.

The specs PDF mentions that the P1 supports Atmos over HDMI ARC, but I'm not able to.

Sonos Arc Playbar -> HDMI 1 (ARC)
Apple TV 4K -> HDMI 2
Xbox One X -> HDMI 3


----------



## Chrisb710

I've got the european version UHZ65UST since November 2019. Everything seems to be fine so far, but since some weeks the Optoma isn't switching to HDR even there is a 4k movie playing at Netflix or something. The HDR can't be selected, it's greyed out.
Does anybody got the same issue?
HDMI cable and all other possibilities were checked. The player is an Amazon FireTV 4K.


----------



## USTGuy

arsenalfc89 said:


> So what are you noticing between both UST? Do you have a preference or are black levels better on Vava like some reviews state?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,


I'm setting up the Optoma today. Since I only have 1 shelf + 1 screen I can't really do side by side comparisons but I have a pretty good eye for this stuff. My main concern is what I'm reading about this pj not being able to play 4K HDR in BT2020. I've witnessed firsthand what forcing rec 709 on 4K HDR content looks like and the banding is horrible. Is this projector in fact playing hdr in rec709?

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## mttjj

chadtill said:


> Hi Optoma PM Dude - I'm having troubles getting Atmos (via Dolby Digital Plus) through ARC. I can't get my Apple TV 4K or Xbox One X to output Atmos (both say that the receiver does not support it). I'm "up-to-date" on C12 on the USA model.
> 
> The specs PDF mentions that the P1 supports Atmos over HDMI ARC, but I'm not able to.
> 
> Sonos Arc Playbar -> HDMI 1 (ARC)
> Apple TV 4K -> HDMI 2
> Xbox One X -> HDMI 3


I have the same setup (minus the Xbox). Haven’t been able to get Atmos through to the SONOS Arc either. I’m also curious if you have experienced audio lag out to the Arc? It’s not extreme - still less than a second - but it’s noticeable. I switched to using the optical adapter and the lag is much better, if not gone altogether. But the downside is I’m really limiting my audio possibilities. Even adjusting the Digital Audio Delay setting to the max (-50) was not enough to fix it when using the HDMI port. Are you seeing this lag as well?


----------



## arsenalfc89

USTGuy said:


> I'm setting up the Optoma today. Since I only have 1 shelf + 1 screen I can't really do side by side comparisons but I have a pretty good eye for this stuff. My main concern is what I'm reading about this pj not being able to play 4K HDR in BT2020. I've witnessed firsthand what forcing rec 709 on 4K HDR content looks like and the banding is horrible. Is this projector in fact playing hdr in rec709?
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


This looks like it’s supposed to be fix in the next update.


----------



## USTGuy

arsenalfc89 said:


> This looks like it’s supposed to be fix in the next update.


So what you are saying is that as of right now I shouldn't even bother trying to watch 4K HDR content? It seems absurd that a over $3000 display would have this issue whereas the $2700 Vava properly displays 4K HDR with accurate tone mapping. I'm confused.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## eurovtec

USTGuy said:


> So what you are saying is that as of right now I shouldn't even bother trying to watch 4K HDR content? It seems absurd that a over $3000 display would have this issue whereas the $2700 Vava properly displays 4K HDR with accurate tone mapping. I'm confused.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


*Yap. Seriously that’s false advertising by Optoma on its website. *
The website was so nicely done, but not on the actual hardware. 
I’m really running out of patience. 
It’s not a cheap projector....


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

Hello, we can only support user generated content. Casting directly from apps and screen mirroring content directly from video streaming providers is not supported (due to DRM). Netflix and Google are not willing to assist as we do not have the volume of the TV guys. 

As for the dark image with HDR -- resolved in the upcoming build. Adjust dynamic black to resolve was a workaround and shouldn't be necessary with the new FW. 



eurovtec said:


> OPTOMA PM DUDE said:
> 
> 
> 
> Asia moved forward with C14 without some of the fixes. TapCast is for casting and screen mirror. If you are attempting to cast or screen mirror with 4K video, I strongly suggest using 5Ghz Wi-Fi or Ethernet. Keep in mind that some high bitrate video and 4K60 (video) may provide problematic on WiFi (5Ghz).
> 
> What type of video?
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Optoma Dude, I was just mirroring thru Netflix app.
> I also try using VLC(video player app) on iOS and play Anime One punch man, regular Mkv video file around 1gig plus stored in ipad.
> Both methods will show loading in progress for a Long time.
> I donâ€™️t think i will use the Tapcast since Iâ€™️m using a HTPC to the P1.
> So all is good except the HDR videos becomes dim after while & switching of brightness options(dynamic black1 to brightness 100% to Dynamic black1) & video contrast/brightness will be so awesome but turn dim after a while. Not sure do they belong to the same issue.
> 
> Really appreciate your effort on making sure that quality is upheld at Optoma.
> It would be great that the new firmware resolves the HDR & dynamic black issue & the respective concerns highlighted by fellow users.
> Thanks!
Click to expand...


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

Hi Bryan, if the RMA resolved the issue, then definitely bad hardware. Many issues can be hardware related yet some bugs can exhibit the same symptom. 

Yes, the flashing issue has been improved. As for the adjusting frame rate, I assume this is from the player. What is the source device? Any adjustment to the signal by the source would result in a flash or resync. Can you send a video link of the issue to me? I would like to check it out. 



Smokey100 said:


> I've got a questions form the Optoma Guy...
> 
> I was having a number of issues with my P1:
> The tint would shift back and forth
> There were flashes of images that looked a little solarized with green patches
> The audio would get very loud when theme music was playing
> 
> I had sent it in for repair and I got a message back that a part was replaced. Now I'm wondering if the FW update would have addressed those issues.
> 
> When I got the unit back I didn't mess with the settings. Streamed videos looked better, the contrast was better and the color seemed better. After a couple weeks I decided to look at the settings, the color was set to gaming. I'm surprised that movies and TV shows didn't look over saturated. I think I have a pretty good eye, I design TV commercials, overseeing the color correction is part of the whole process.
> 
> I still have some flashes of posterized frames. I think they only happen when watching a British show. I stream them from Amazon and Netflix, both from their U.S. service and I'm in the U.S.. When I start them I usually see a message that says adjusting frame rate. Is that the problem?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bryan


----------



## USTGuy

eurovtec said:


> *Yap. Seriously that’s false advertising by Optoma on its website. *
> 
> The website was so nicely done, but not on the actual hardware.
> 
> I’m really running out of patience.
> 
> It’s not a cheap projector....


I'm surprised that none of the online reviews noticed this not so small issue. 
Come on Optoma 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

Actually, this is not true. With some sources the projector would fall HDR BT.709 and not BT.2020. Again, with some sources. From our very first Projectors (4K) UHD60 and UHD65 -- we always use "REC.2020 tone mapping" for ALL 4K HDR signals. 

With that said, as mentioned in my update post, this issue has been RESOLVED. I personally tested and verified myself. 🙂



arsenalfc89 said:


> USTGuy said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm setting up the Optoma today. Since I only have 1 shelf + 1 screen I can't really do side by side comparisons but I have a pretty good eye for this stuff. My main concern is what I'm reading about this pj not being able to play 4K HDR in BT2020. I've witnessed firsthand what forcing rec 709 on 4K HDR content looks like and the banding is horrible. Is this projector in fact playing hdr in rec709?
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like itâ€™️s supposed to be fix in the next update.
Click to expand...


----------



## eurovtec

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Hello, we can only support user generated content. Casting directly from apps and screen mirroring content directly from video streaming providers is not supported (due to DRM). Netflix and Google are not willing to assist as we do not have the volume of the TV guys.
> 
> As for the dark image with HDR -- resolved in the upcoming build. Adjust dynamic black to resolve was a workaround and shouldn't be necessary with the new FW.


Hi Optoma Dude, I’m not concern with the performance of tapcast/mirroring app.
The main purpose of the 4kUHD HDR projector is meant to play all 4k UHD HDR content thrown at it.
I’m not sure by comparing the company size of Optoma vs VaVa, which of them have more resources.
The company with the most resources should be able to do better. 
I really appreciate your help on helping the P1 owners all these while. 
But i just feel that Optoma is a very reputable projector manufacturer, and things are just moving very slowly and not proactive enough to do stringent tests to verify the unit is robust.


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

In addition -- one of the reasons for the delay -- that I tasked R&D with improving the signal OSD information (timings). 🙂



OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Actually, this is not true. With some sources the projector would fall HDR BT.709 and not BT.2020. Again, with some sources. From our very first Projectors (4K) UHD60 and UHD65 -- we always use "REC.2020 tone mapping" for ALL 4K HDR signals.
> 
> With that said, as mentioned in my update post, this issue has been RESOLVED. I personally check test and verify myself. 🙂
> 
> 
> 
> arsenalfc89 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> USTGuy said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm setting up the Optoma today. Since I only have 1 shelf + 1 screen I can't really do side by side comparisons but I have a pretty good eye for this stuff. My main concern is what I'm reading about this pj not being able to play 4K HDR in BT2020. I've witnessed firsthand what forcing rec 709 on 4K HDR content looks like and the banding is horrible. Is this projector in fact playing hdr in rec709?
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like itâ€™️s supposed to be fix in the next update.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## Smokey100

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Hi Bryan, if the RMA resolved the issue, then definitely bad hardware. Many issues can be hardware related yet some bugs can exhibit the same symptom.
> 
> Yes, the flashing issue has been improved. As for the adjusting frame rate, I assume this is from the player. What is the source device? Any adjustment to the signal by the source would result in a flash or resync. Can you send a video link of the issue to me? I would like to check it out.


I'll reply in a private message with a link to my DropBox.


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

As I just mentioned in a post, the projector falling to HDR BT.709 has been resolved in upcoming build -- only occured with some sources and content. 

As for the VAVA -- even with our big, the projector cannot compete with P1. Back in January I conducted a shootout. The VAVA does not properly decode HDR Metadata. It is quite insulting that the product is even on the market. The list of shortcomings is staggering. 

Here are a few images of the shootout with BOTH projectors at default setting along with a link my Google Drive with more. Happy to do the Pepsi Challenge all day long. 🙂

Movie is Gemini Man 4K HDR 60FPS. 

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1V9N44CzLH_ig-L4uD3TuyZ6fcOSEbXN_




USTGuy said:


> arsenalfc89 said:
> 
> 
> 
> This looks like itâ€™️s supposed to be fix in the next update.
> 
> 
> 
> So what you are saying is that as of right now I shouldn't even bother trying to watch 4K HDR content? It seems absurd that a over $3000 display would have this issue whereas the $2700 Vava properly displays 4K HDR with accurate tone mapping. I'm confused.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

As I mentioned in a previous post, the plan was for frequent FW updates but Covid-19 through a wrench into those plans. We have some R&D in Wuhan and many of our component partners also have resources in the region. Some of them we hit hard by Covid-19. Sadly, Covid-19 impact is still being felt. We have had to balance catching up with while waiting on some partners to resolve issue -- and working on upcoming products. As you are aware, business is down for everyone in the world. To ensure we don't have to reduce headcount or resources -- we must balanced the update of existing product updates with R&D on new products. The situation is not ideal but everyone is committed. Here in the US, I live in SF and the office is in Fremont -- we are still in Shelter in Place and all reopenings (all Bay Area Counties) has been paused. Most of us (including myself) -- still working from home. I have several products in my living room and kitchen as I work on issues, debug and testing. As the Product Manager for P1 (US) -- I am huge fan of constant updates therefore I had not been thrilled with the current situation yet the situation is not anyone's fault. 

I appreciate everyone being patient. 🙂



eurovtec said:


> OPTOMA PM DUDE said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello, we can only support user generated content. Casting directly from apps and screen mirroring content directly from video streaming providers is not supported (due to DRM). Netflix and Google are not willing to assist as we do not have the volume of the TV guys.
> 
> As for the dark image with HDR -- resolved in the upcoming build. Adjust dynamic black to resolve was a workaround and shouldn't be necessary with the new FW.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Optoma Dude, Iâ€™️m not concern with the performance of tapcast/mirroring app.
> The main purpose of the 4kUHD HDR projector is meant to play all 4k UHD HDR content thrown at it.
> Iâ€™️m not sure by comparing the company size of Optoma vs VaVa, which of them have more resources.
> The company with the most resources should be able to do better.
> I really appreciate your help on helping the P1 owners all these while.
> But i just feel that Optoma is a very reputable projector manufacturer, and things are just moving very slowly and not proactive enough to do stringent tests to verify the unit is robust.
Click to expand...


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

Hello -- let's recap. The AVR supports ATMOS or ATMOS Pass Through? Or it does not?

What do you mean by "via DDPlus" ? Xbox One X and Apple TV 4K support ATMOS and should work as expected. 

ARC is only supported on HDMI 1. P1 supports Dolby ATMOS Pass Through only. Are using HDMI port 1?



chadtill said:


> OPTOMA PM DUDE said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any questions -- please let me know.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Optoma PM Dude - I'm having troubles getting Atmos (via Dolby Digital Plus) through ARC. I can't get my Apple TV 4K or Xbox One X to output Atmos (both say that the receiver does not support it). I'm "up-to-date" on C12 on the USA model.
> 
> The specs PDF mentions that the P1 supports Atmos over HDMI ARC, but I'm not able to.
> 
> Sonos Arc Playbar -> HDMI 1 (ARC)
> Apple TV 4K -> HDMI 2
> Xbox One X -> HDMI 3
Click to expand...


----------



## chadtill

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Hello -- let's recap. The AVR supports ATMOS or ATMOS Pass Through? Or it does not?


Yep, the AVR is a Sonos Arc and it supports Atmos over HDMI Arc. Summary from manufacturer: support.sonos.com/s/article/4844?language=en_US



OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> What do you mean by "via DDPlus" ? Xbox One X and Apple TV 4K support ATMOS and should work as expected.


From what I understand, Atmos can be over Dolby Digital Plus or Dolby TrueHD. Dolby TrueHD is only supported over HDMI eARC (which from what I read, the projector doesn't support). 



OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> ARC is only supported on HDMI 1. P1 supports Dolby ATMOS Pass Through only. Are using HDMI port 1?


Yep, the Sonos Arc AVR is connected to the projector HDMI 1. The connections look like:
- HDMI 1: Sonos Arc (AVR)
- HDMI 2: Apple TV
- HDMI 3: Xbox One X

Is there a way to output logs from the projector that can help troubleshoot?


----------



## chadtill

mttjj said:


> I have the same setup (minus the Xbox). Haven’t been able to get Atmos through to the SONOS Arc either. I’m also curious if you have experienced audio lag out to the Arc? It’s not extreme - still less than a second - but it’s noticeable. I switched to using the optical adapter and the lag is much better, if not gone altogether. But the downside is I’m really limiting my audio possibilities. Even adjusting the Digital Audio Delay setting to the max (-50) was not enough to fix it when using the HDMI port. Are you seeing this lag as well?


I noticed a slight lag, but it's not that bad for me.


----------



## mttjj

chadtill said:


> Yep, the AVR is a Sonos Arc and it supports Atmos over HDMI Arc. Summary from manufacturer: support.sonos.com/s/article/4844?language=en_US
> 
> 
> 
> From what I understand, Atmos can be over Dolby Digital Plus or Dolby TrueHD. Dolby TrueHD is only supported over HDMI eARC (which from what I read, the projector doesn't support).
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, the Sonos Arc AVR is connected to the projector HDMI 1. The connections look like:
> - HDMI 1: Sonos Arc (AVR)
> - HDMI 2: Apple TV
> - HDMI 3: Xbox One X
> 
> Is there a way to output logs from the projector that can help troubleshoot?


I have the same setup (again, minus the Xbox). Would love to help troubleshoot as well if I can. This has been a major pain point for me.


----------



## USTGuy

Just setting this up and having issues with 3D mode. If I play 3D files ftom USB the projector doesn't seem to have a 3D switch control and when I try to play 3D on bluray disc I just get a black screen. Here is a screenshot of the 3D options I get all greyed out in the main menu and also a shot of a 3D bluray while playing









Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## JackB

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> As for the VAVA -- even with our big, the projector cannot compete with P1. Back in January I conducted a shootout. The VAVA does not properly decode HDR Metadata. It is quite insulting that the product is even on the market. The list of shortcomings is staggering.
> 
> Here are a few images of the shootout with BOTH projectors at default setting along with a link my Google Drive with more. Happy to do the Pepsi Challenge all day long. 🙂
> 
> Movie is Gemini Man 4K HDR 60FPS.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1V9N44CzLH_ig-L4uD3TuyZ6fcOSEbXN_


PM Dude, I think you owe Vava an apology. I spent thirty years in sales for a large computer vendor. If I ever disparaged a competitors product to a prospect or customer like you did and it was heard by my management I would have been fired on the spot.


----------



## USTGuy

JackB said:


> PM Dude, I think you owe Vava an apology. I spent thirty years in sales for a large computer vendor. If I ever disparaged a competitors product to a prospect or customer like you did and it was heard by my management I would have been fired on the spot.


A lot has improved with Vava since January. I own both projectors.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

The Optoma P1 overall is a good projector overall from the 4-5 hours I spent on it so far. Audio pass-through is definitely better than on the Vava (more on that later).
My biggest gripe right now is not being able to figure out how to use 3D via USB files and via bluray









Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## copperfield74

USTGuy said:


> The Optoma P1 overall is a good projector overall from the 4-5 hours I spent on it so far. Audio pass-through is definitely better than on the Vava (more on that later).
> My biggest gripe right now is not being able to figure out how to use 3D via USB files and via bluray
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


There are two important things to watching 3D
1. no HDR content

2. no 4K


Depending what kind of receiver you're using it upscales the signals to 4K which means that 3D can't be activated. Check if this may be the case. As soon you disable upscaling it will work.


----------



## USTGuy

copperfield74 said:


> There are two important things to watching 3D
> 1. no HDR content
> 
> 2. no 4K
> 
> 
> Depending what kind of receiver you're using it upscales the signals to 4K which means that 3D can't be activated. Check if this may be the case. As soon you disable upscaling it will work.


Receiver is in pass-through mode. No upscaling. I thought there would be a 3D button like on Vava or even on most 3D TVs that will trigger the picture to switch manually to 3D mode.
Also is there no CEC on this either?

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## asd210111

USTGuy said:


> Receiver is in pass-through mode. No upscaling. I thought there would be a 3D button like on Vava or even on most 3D TVs that will trigger the picture to switch manually to 3D mode.
> Also is there no CEC on this either?
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Just to say my experience with 3d, I tried to view 3d in Kodi and I have to manually change Kodi resulotion to 1080P in order for 3D to work, so
it has to be 1080p signals sending to projector for 3d to work like the other one stated. Playing 3D bluray disks using Xbox one X and PS4 pro works on my side. 
And No there is no 3D button, which I really want to see on this projector.


----------



## USTGuy

asd210111 said:


> Just to say my experience with 3d, I tried to view 3d in Kodi and I have to manually change Kodi resulotion to 1080P in order for 3D to work, so
> 
> it has to be 1080p signals sending to projector for 3d to work like the other one stated. Playing 3D bluray disks using Xbox one X and PS4 pro works on my side.
> 
> And No there is no 3D button, which I really want to see on this projector.


But even by changing resolution to 1080p, how do we trigger the display to merge the two images together? 
Do you keep projector in DLP link mode or in 3D sync mode? 
Also, do you have 3D Sync Invert on or off?









Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Kdub69

copperfield74 said:


> USTGuy said:
> 
> 
> 
> The Optoma P1 overall is a good projector overall from the 4-5 hours I spent on it so far. Audio pass-through is definitely better than on the Vava (more on that later).
> My biggest gripe right now is not being able to figure out how to use 3D via USB files and via bluray
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> There are two important things to watching 3D
> 1. no HDR content
> 
> 2. no 4K
> 
> 
> Depending what kind of receiver you're using it upscales the signals to 4K which means that 3D can't be activated. Check if this may be the case. As soon you disable upscaling it will work.
Click to expand...


Can some post a video guide on how to get 3d on kodi? What glasses do you use/recommend? Link would be amazing from amazon.ca?


----------



## USTGuy

Kdub69 said:


> Can some post a video guide on how to get 3d on kodi? What glasses do you use/recommend? Link would be amazing from amazon.ca?


When I play 3D on Kodi I am required to select a 3D mode. It can be 'as movie', 'over/under', and 'side by side'. But once I select the correspondent 3D mode, I don't know how to trigger this projector into 3D mode. I was able to make it work with 3D bluray using a BD player. But if I am using another source (USB, casting,etc.), the projectot doesn't automatically switch to 3D mode

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## aohus

Chrisb710 said:


> I've got the european version UHZ65UST since November 2019. Everything seems to be fine so far, but since some weeks the Optoma isn't switching to HDR even there is a 4k movie playing at Netflix or something. The HDR can't be selected, it's greyed out.
> Does anybody got the same issue?
> HDMI cable and all other possibilities were checked. The player is an Amazon FireTV 4K.


try going to HDMI settings --> EDID and toggle back between 1.4 and back to 2.0 and see if HDR starts to trigger again. there are HDMI/EDID handshake issues apparently that they're working on.


----------



## USTGuy

I found this for 3D in the manual, but when I go into my 3D menu I don't see those options (is the 3D format menu disabled?) 









Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## eurovtec

USTGuy said:


> I found this for 3D in the manual, but when I go into my 3D menu I don't see those options (is the 3D format menu disabled?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


The 3D format is grey out. 
I think like HDR, the projector must recognise a 3D source input then it will allow u to change the options. 
I think we need to go to system->system->display and change the resolution to 1080 instead of UHD resolution for it to detect 3D.


----------



## USTGuy

eurovtec said:


> The 3D format is grey out.
> 
> I think like HDR, the projector must recognise a 3D source input then it will allow u to change the options.
> 
> I think we need to go to system->system->display and change the resolution to 1080 instead of UHD resolution for it to detect 3D.


I can't seem to find where this projector has a resolution switch menu. Are you saying that we have to change HDMI edid from 2.0 back to 1.4?

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

USTGuy said:


> I can't seem to find where this projector has a resolution switch menu. Are you saying that we have to change HDMI edid from 2.0 back to 1.4?
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


I feel stupid quoting myself but: BINGO!
I was finally able to figure out how to enable access to manual 3D formats! Never dealt with such an awkward 3D system. So now everytime I want to watch either 3D or 4K HDR I first must toggle HDMI edid back and forth between 1.4 and 2.0 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## eurovtec

USTGuy said:


> I can't seem to find where this projector has a resolution switch menu. Are you saying that we have to change HDMI edid from 2.0 back to 1.4?
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Actually i was saying at Kodi system setting, Change the resolution from UHD to 1080.
So u manage to activate 3D by just toggling EDID from 2 To 1.4?


----------



## USTGuy

eurovtec said:


> Actually i was saying at Kodi system setting, Change the resolution from UHD to 1080.
> 
> So u manage to activate 3D by just toggling EDID from 2 To 1.4?


I tried changing resolution just in Kodi to 1080p, but if the projector's HDMI is left on 2.0 3D formats still appear greyed out. In order to enable the 3D format scrolldown tab, the projector has to be set on 1.4. Once you do that and go back to Kodi, its resolution will automatically switch to 1080p because of the hdmi 1.4 signal being detected. Now play a 3D title, select 3D menu with the Optoma remote, scroll to 3D formats. and there you have them, all 3D formats now selectable 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

Another small quirk I found is this PJ's throw ratio. It should have been labeled "semi-UST projector"..I pulled it back from the screen as much as the room allows me to, and still can't fully fill up a modest 100" screen 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## eurovtec

USTGuy said:


> I tried changing resolution just in Kodi to 1080p, but if the projector's HDMI is left on 2.0 3D formats still appear greyed out. In order to enable the 3D format scrolldown tab, the projector has to be set on 1.4. Once you do that and go back to Kodi, its resolution will automatically switch to 1080p because of the hdmi 1.4 signal being detected. Now play a 3D title, select 3D menu with the Optoma remote, scroll to 3D formats. and there you have them, all 3D formats now selectable
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Thanks for sharing. So meaning to play 3D, you need to set the EDID to HDMI1.4 after changing the resolution of the source from 4k to 1080p.



USTGuy said:


> Another small quirk I found is this PJ's throw ratio. It should have been labeled "semi-UST projector"..I pulled it back from the screen as much as the room allows me to, and still can't fully fill up a modest 100" screen
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


What do u mean? I installed a ALR screen which has a thickness of 5.5cm.
So taking my screen as the wall, to get 100” , the rear middle of the projector body with the pointy Part is around 25.6cm. 
My 100” ALR is able to fully fill up.










https://www.optoma.com/projectioncalculator/?region=ROA&name=P1


----------



## USTGuy

eurovtec said:


> Thanks for sharing. So meaning to play 3D, you need to set the EDID to HDMI1.4 after changing the resolution of the source from 4k to 1080p.
> 
> 
> 
> What do u mean? I installed a ALR screen which has a thickness of 5.5cm.
> 
> So taking my screen as the wall, to get 100” , the rear middle of the projector body with the pointy Part is around 25.6cm.
> 
> My 100” ALR is able to fully fill up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.optoma.com/projectioncalculator/?region=ROA&name=P1


3D: yes HDMI EDID seems like it must be set to 1.4 along with changing the source resolution to 1080p

Throw ratio: I have my projector placed at 55.8cm from rear of the unit to the surface of the screen and still only get about 75" to 80" projected image. With the Vava I can place the unit only half that distance from the screen and get 90"+ image size 
Is there a Zoom in/out control on this thing that I might not be aware of??
Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## eurovtec

USTGuy said:


> 3D: yes HDMI EDID seems like it must be set to 1.4 along with changing the source resolution to 1080p
> 
> Throw ratio: I have my projector placed at 55.8cm from rear of the unit to the surface of the screen and still only get about 75" to 80" projected image. With the Vava I can place the unit only half that distance from the screen and get 90"+ image size
> Is there a Zoom in/out control on this thing that I might not be aware of??
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Hi, That pic of the PJ placement is obtained from Optoma Smart Fit manual.
In the manual there’s smart fit or manual adjustment. 
It mentioned with Smart fit, it will cause some lag.
I just the manual fit which is to get 100”, the rear is around 25.6cm.
If you look carefully on the pic, there’s a 5% tolerance. 
But 55.8cm is way out of the tolerance. 
Have you tried following the placement distance, then use your PJ remote control, go to geometric and adjust the corrections to fill the screen?
If you still cannot get your 100” size, then i think there’s something wrong on your lens. 55cm is almost 100% difference of 25.6cm. It’s too much.


----------



## USTGuy

eurovtec said:


> Hi, That pic of the PJ placement is obtained from Optoma Smart Fit manual.
> 
> In the manual there’s smart fit or manual adjustment.
> 
> It mentioned with Smart fit, it will cause some lag.
> 
> I just the manual fit which is to get 100”, the rear is around 25.6cm.
> 
> If you look carefully on the pic, there’s a 5% tolerance.
> 
> But 55.8cm is way out of the tolerance.
> 
> Have you tried following the placement distance, then use your PJ remote control, go to geometric and adjust the corrections to fill the screen?
> 
> If you still cannot get your 100” size, then i think there’s something wrong on your lens. 55cm is almost 100% difference of 25.6cm. It’s too much.


I can't use the smartfit app because the yellow outlines must be outside of the screen perimeter. And like I said even at 55cm the whole picture still falls inside the screen. Any ideas?

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## eurovtec

USTGuy said:


> I can't use the smartfit app because the yellow outlines must be outside of the screen perimeter. And like I said even at 55cm the whole picture still falls inside the screen. Any ideas?
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Don’t use smart fit. 
Do this 
1) Position your rear of the projector with a distance of around 25-26cm from the screen.
2)Use your remote and go to geometric correction. Use the geometric correction and see if you can extend the projected image to match your screen.

I saw the pics of your console.
It’s sitting like 80cm? 
What’s the height of your room?


----------



## USTGuy

eurovtec said:


> Don’t use smart fit.
> 
> Do this
> 
> 1) Position your rear of the projector with a distance of around 25-26cm from the screen.
> 
> 2)Use your remote and go to geometric correction. Use the geometric correction and see if you can extend the projected image to match your screen.


Correct me if I'm wrong but geometric correction only allows you to warp the image in. But if the entire picture is too small to begin with at 55cm there's not much that geometric correction can to to make a full 75" image fit a 100" screen

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## eurovtec

USTGuy said:


> Correct me if I'm wrong but geometric correction only allows you to warp the image in. But if the entire picture is too small to begin with, there's not much that geometric correction can to to make a 75" image fit a 100" screen
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Yup. The geometric correction can only adjust to a certain amount. 
All the points have their individual limits. 
I see that the height of your console is very high. 
Normally recommended is 50cm of less. 
U can post a pic of how the image looks like?

If geometric correction cannot allow you to achieve 100” at 25-26cm, I would suggest you go back to your retailer and ask them to get another set and test on their wall. 
55cm distance is really too much. 
It’s out of Optoma’s 100” spec placement distance.


----------



## USTGuy

eurovtec said:


> Yup. The geometric correction can only adjust to a certain amount.
> 
> All the points have their individual limits.
> 
> I see that the height of your console is very high.
> 
> Normally recommended is 50cm of less.
> 
> U can post a pic of how the image looks like?
> 
> 
> 
> If geometric correction cannot allow you to achieve 100” at 25-26cm, I would suggest you go back to your retailer and ask them to get another set and test on their wall.
> 
> 55cm distance is really too much.
> 
> It’s out of Optoma’s 100” spec placement distance.


The console is high but that's because the screen is also high on the wall. If I lower the console the image will be too low. Right now the image is perfectly centered without need of any geometric correction. Only issue is that it's the size of a 75" TV. If I pull the console further away from the screen past 55cm I'll hit the bed 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## eurovtec

USTGuy said:


> The console is high but that's because the screen is also high on the wall. If I lower the console the image will be too low. Right now the image is perfectly centered without need of any geometric correction. Only issue is that it's the size of a 75" TV. If I pull the console further away from the screen past 55cm I'll hit the bed
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


I went to projector central 
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Optoma-P1-projection-calculator-pro.htm
So 55cm distance is from screen to the lens. 
Your 55cm distance is from screen to your rear? If so, u really need to find your retailer and get an exchange.


----------



## USTGuy

eurovtec said:


> I went to projector central
> 
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/Optoma-P1-projection-calculator-pro.htm
> 
> So 55cm distance is from screen to the lens.
> 
> Your 55cm distance is from screen to your rear? If so, u really need to find your retailer and get an exchange.


Sorry for the misunderstanding. 55cm from the front (soundbar side of the projector near the lens) to the screen. Distance from the back of PJ to screen is 21.5cm.
Height from floor to bottom of pj is about 86cm, by the way.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Kdub69

USTGuy said:


> eurovtec said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for sharing. So meaning to play 3D, you need to set the EDID to HDMI1.4 after changing the resolution of the source from 4k to 1080p.
> 
> 
> 
> What do u mean? I installed a ALR screen which has a thickness of 5.5cm.
> 
> So taking my screen as the wall, to get 100â€ , the rear middle of the projector body with the pointy Part is around 25.6cm.
> 
> My 100â€ ALR is able to fully fill up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.optoma.com/projectioncalculator/?region=ROA&name=P1
> 
> 
> 
> 3D: yes HDMI EDID seems like it must be set to 1.4 along with changing the source resolution to 1080p
> 
> Throw ratio: I have my projector placed at 55.8cm from rear of the unit to the surface of the screen and still only get about 75" to 80" projected image. With the Vava I can place the unit only half that distance from the screen and get 90"+ image size
> Is there a Zoom in/out control on this thing that I might not be aware of??
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


Big time newbie here where would I find these options

3D: yes HDMI EDID seems like it must be set to 1.4 along with changing the source resolution to 1080p

Also have you found glasses that work with the optoma p1 if so can you post a link thank you! 

Why don’t they have a easier option to enable 3d?


----------



## asd210111

USTGuy said:


> I feel stupid quoting myself but: BINGO!
> I was finally able to figure out how to enable access to manual 3D formats! Never dealt with such an awkward 3D system. So now everytime I want to watch either 3D or 4K HDR I first must toggle HDMI edid back and forth between 1.4 and 2.0
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Its a little bit odd, I never changed the HDMI edid just switch in Kodi menu to 1080P then I have 3d. Interesting.


----------



## USTGuy

asd210111 said:


> Its a little bit odd, I never changed the HDMI edid just switch in Kodi menu to 1080P then I have 3d. Interesting.


I tried to change resolution just on Kodi but same result. When I change hdmi edid to 1.4 Kodi already launches in 1080p without having to manually adjust its resolution and now I get full 3D formats enabled where I can go in and select over/under, framepack, side by side, etc

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

Kdub69 said:


> Big time newbie here where would I find these options
> 
> 3D: yes HDMI EDID seems like it must be set to 1.4 along with changing the source resolution to 1080p
> 
> Also have you found glasses that work with the optoma p1 if so can you post a link thank you!
> 
> Why don’t they have a easier option to enable 3d?


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KUIYUP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_h9l.Eb86GXFRR

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

Distance from the back of PJ to screen is 21.5cm. This is all I can fill up my 100" screen with...Is this normal? I can't pull the shelf any further away from the screen either 









Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Kdub69

USTGuy said:


> Kdub69 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Big time newbie here where would I find these options
> 
> 3D: yes HDMI EDID seems like it must be set to 1.4 along with changing the source resolution to 1080p
> 
> Also have you found glasses that work with the optoma p1 if so can you post a link thank you!
> 
> Why donâ€™️t they have a easier option to enable 3d?
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KUIYUP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_h9l.Eb86GXFRR
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Thanks but they are out of stock any other recommendations? I’m looking at amazon.ca are there any specific specs I need for this projector? Refresh rate etc?


----------



## eurovtec

@USTGuy, From the projector placment pic I posted a couple of posts earlier, u need to follow the distance(Rear of projector to screen) to get the image size. Your rear is 21.5cm. U need to shift the console away from the wall.


I’m not sure in the market if there’s any other ust projectors that allows u to put less than 10cm to wall and get 100”.


----------



## mjbok

This was on sale so I bit the bullet and got a UST ALR screen. Two hopes: I don't regret it. My wife doesn't kill me. The only problem is I think I need to find a new TV stand. The one we have is normal height, which means it will be too tall.


----------



## USTGuy

eurovtec said:


> @USTGuy, From the projector placment pic I posted a couple of posts earlier, u need to follow the distance(Rear of projector to screen) to get the image size. Your rear is 21.5cm. U need to shift the console away from the wall.
> 
> 
> I’m not sure in the market if there’s any other ust projectors that allows u to put less than 10cm to wall and get 100”.


I just want to know that it's normal to get that size image at that distance 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## aohus

USTGuy said:


> I just want to know that it's normal to get that size image at that distance
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


yes its normal. all the specs and distances were already labeled/shown in the marketing materials/specs. there shouldn't be any surprises in terms of how much length is needed to project a 100+ inch image. less threadcrapping = better


On a side note, I believe this was discussed in past comments, but will the new firmware update be able to view HDR 24p 4k content in 10 bit mode instead of it reverting to 8 bit 4:2:2? Can anyone confirm?


----------



## eurovtec

USTGuy said:


> I just want to know that it's normal to get that size image at that distance
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


The placement pic that i posted, at 19.2cm, you get a 90” screen. 
At your current 21.5cm, From your pic, it looks Normal.
The ONLY best way to clear your doubts, is to shift your console to the stated distance and see if your image can fill the 100” frame.
The manual stated 5% tolerance on the distance specs.
At 100”, distance spec is 24.7cm, 5% tolerance would be between 25.9cm to 23.4cm.


----------



## ernest787

Hopefully the FW update comes out soon and fixes some of the issues. 

Overall I really like the projector, but I don't get bt2020 when playing HDR content on my fire tv or my panasonic ub820 player. The projector shows Bt.709 either way.

Not sure if anyone else has been able to get bt2020? If so, can someone share what they have done since it appears Optoma Dude is indicating that this is only a issue on some sources, not sure if I'm just unlucky that it's happening on both of mine.


----------



## aohus

ernest787 said:


> Hopefully the FW update comes out soon and fixes some of the issues.
> 
> Overall I really like the projector, but I don't get bt2020 when playing HDR content on my fire tv or my panasonic ub820 player. The projector shows Bt.709 either way.
> 
> Not sure if anyone else has been able to get bt2020? If so, can someone share what they have done since it appears Optoma Dude is indicating that this is only a issue on some sources, not sure if I'm just unlucky that it's happening on both of mine.


go to HDMI settings under settings menu and toggle between EDID 2.0 and 1.4 back to 2.0 and see if that kicks in HDR mode. I am able to get BT 2020 no issues but unable view HDR 24p content in 10 bit mode. Its stuck at 8 bit.., which from my understanding is a projector limitation. If anyone can confirm that would be great.


----------



## ernest787

aohus said:


> go to HDMI settings under settings menu and toggle between EDID 2.0 and 1.4 back to 2.0 and see if that kicks in HDR mode. I am able to get BT 2020 no issues but unable view HDR 24p content in 10 bit mode. Its stuck at 8 bit.., which from my understanding is a projector limitation. If anyone can confirm that would be great.


Thanks for the reply and suggestion. I tried flipping back and forth between 2.0 and 1.4 several times but no dice. I see that your showing to be on FW C14. I'm still on C12, so I wonder if you have updated FW to correct the BT2020 issue.


----------



## eurovtec

My source is HTPC.
*4:4:4 setting*
Windows10 graphic setting 4:4:4/8bit(only option), Optoma’s input source detect 4:4:4/8bit, BT2020 & HDR.
Window10 graphic setting 4:2:2/8 bit, Optoma will at windows desktop display SDR. Play 4KHDR will have Optoma’s input source detect 4:2:2/8bit. BT2020 & HDR.

*4:2:2 setting *
Windows10 graphic setting 4:2:2/10bit, Optoma will at windows desktop display with convert to HDR mode. Play 4KHDR will have Optoma input source show 4:2:2/8bit.
Windows10 graphic setting 4:2:2/12 bit, Optoma will at windows desktop display with convert to HDR mode. Play 4KHDR will have Optoma input source will show 4:2:2/8bit.

*4:2:0 setting*
Windows10 graphic setting 4:2:0/12bit, Optoma’s input source detect RGB 12bit instead. BT2020 & HDR. 
Windows10 graphic setting 4:2:0/8bit, Optoma cannot detect any source. Will show the cable plug tv logo.

After i cycled thru these setting, my pj HDR detection seems to go haywire.....


----------



## ernest787

eurovtec said:


> My source is HTPC.
> *4:4:4 setting*
> Windows10 graphic setting 4:4:4/8bit(only option), Optoma’s input source detect 4:4:4/8bit, BT2020 & HDR.
> Window10 graphic setting 4:2:2/8 bit, Optoma will at windows desktop display SDR. Play 4KHDR will have Optoma’s input source detect 4:2:2/8bit. BT2020 & HDR.
> 
> *4:2:2 setting *
> Windows10 graphic setting 4:2:2/10bit, Optoma will at windows desktop display with convert to HDR mode. Play 4KHDR will have Optoma input source show 4:2:2/8bit.
> Windows10 graphic setting 4:2:2/12 bit, Optoma will at windows desktop display with convert to HDR mode. Play 4KHDR will have Optoma input source will show 4:2:2/8bit.
> 
> *4:2:0 setting*
> Windows10 graphic setting 4:2:0/12bit, Optoma’s input source detect RGB 12bit instead. BT2020 & HDR.
> Windows10 graphic setting 4:2:0/8bit, Optoma cannot detect any source. Will show the cable plug tv logo.


are you on the C12 FW?

Mine will show 4:4:4/12 bit with BT.709 & HDR. I cannot get it to indicate its on BT.2020 on either source.

I'm hoping it's just needing the FW update to fix and I don't have another issue.


----------



## eurovtec

ernest787 said:


> are you on the C12 FW?
> 
> Mine will show 4:4:4/12 bit with BT.709 & HDR. I cannot get it to indicate its on BT.2020 on either source.
> 
> I'm hoping it's just needing the FW update to fix and I don't have another issue.


i’m on C14.
I think the input source detection is not sensitive.
Hope the FW to come out soon.


----------



## aohus

still shocked that this projector cannot output 4k at 24 hz at 10 bit or higher. Is it confirmed that this will be the case permanently? I have 2 more days to decide whether or not to keep the projector.

i have visually confirmed that 10 bit 4.2.0 at 4k HDR looks visually better than 8 bit 4.2.2


----------



## USTGuy

eurovtec said:


> @USTGuy, From the projector placment pic I posted a couple of posts earlier, u need to follow the distance(Rear of projector to screen) to get the image size. Your rear is 21.5cm. U need to shift the console away from the wall.
> 
> 
> I’m not sure in the market if there’s any other ust projectors that allows u to put less than 10cm to wall and get 100”.


Thank you. I just wanted to confirm that there was nothing from with the lens and that it is normal to obtain less than 100" image at 21.5cm distance. This display is in the bedroom so I can't move the console further away because the bed would be in the way

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

Kdub69 said:


> Thanks but they are out of stock any other recommendations? I’m looking at amazon.ca are there any specific specs I need for this projector? Refresh rate etc?


Supposedly all DLP Link 3D glasses should work, but for me these were the only ones that worked with both my Optoma P1 and Vava 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

eurovtec said:


> The placement pic that i posted, at 19.2cm, you get a 90” screen.
> 
> At your current 21.5cm, From your pic, it looks Normal.
> 
> The ONLY best way to clear your doubts, is to shift your console to the stated distance and see if your image can fill the 100” frame.
> 
> The manual stated 5% tolerance on the distance specs.
> 
> At 100”, distance spec is 24.7cm, 5% tolerance would be between 25.9cm to 23.4cm.


Thank you, but as I stated above this is a bedroom set up so if I try to move the stand further back we have the lower end of a king size bed in the way.
To be honest, I don't mind the current less than 100" image. It is still perfectly centered as you can see from the photo and after all this was meant as a bedroom display, not for a dedicated bat cave.
Here is a pic to clearly show how the bed doesn't allow much room to pull stand further back (older pic with former Xiaomi projector)

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

ernest787 said:


> Hopefully the FW update comes out soon and fixes some of the issues.
> 
> 
> 
> Overall I really like the projector, but I don't get bt2020 when playing HDR content on my fire tv or my panasonic ub820 player. The projector shows Bt.709 either way.
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if anyone else has been able to get bt2020? If so, can someone share what they have done since it appears Optoma Dude is indicating that this is only a issue on some sources, not sure if I'm just unlucky that it's happening on both of mine.


I think I'm getting bt2020 from mkv/mp4 4K HDR files. Haven't tried things like Netflix or Prime streaming in 4K HDR yet. Where in the projector's settings can I check bt2020/bt704 info to be sure?

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## J Bone

USTGuy said:


> I think I'm getting bt2020 from mkv/mp4 4K HDR files. Haven't tried things like Netflix or Prime streaming in 4K HDR yet. Where in the projector's settings can I check bt2020/bt704 info to be sure?
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk



It’s under the Optoma Menu. See example.


----------



## USTGuy

J Bone said:


> It’s under the Optoma Menu. See example.


I see it's under the "i" tab. Thank you!
By the way, how do we know that maybe that info only applies to the on-screen info and not to the actual metadata processing that goes on in reality?

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## J Bone

ernest787 said:


> are you on the C12 FW?
> 
> Mine will show 4:4:4/12 bit with BT.709 & HDR. I cannot get it to indicate its on BT.2020 on either source.
> 
> I'm hoping it's just needing the FW update to fix and I don't have another issue.



Same here on my HTPC.

Without HDR...










With HDR...











Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Bruno2284

Bruno2284 said:


> So i need some feedback on this projector. I plan to buy this projector for outdoor use for football season driveway tailgate parties, The idea I have it so set this projector and screen inside a black tent with the back and both sides being closed out with the black covers, only the front being open. do you think that is enough darkness for this projector to show the picture well enough on a 120 inch scale. here is the tent that I'm thinking.


Well I pull the trigger on this set-up, since i didn't hear any feedback just going to try and see how it works, if it doesn't look good I will just return the projector i guess. I will post feedback and pictures when I do the first dry run.


----------



## LBThree

Hello all, new to this forum and have had my Optoma P1 for only a couple of days now. Overall I'm pretty happy with the performance and with upcoming firmware updates I do not think I will need to return. However, regarding these upcoming firmware updates, I see that I am not the only one experiencing the issue where the picture with "Dynamic Black 1" will dramatically reduce in brightness/contrast/etc. sometimes immediately after being applied, sometimes after 10-15 seconds (seemingly depending on the brightness of whats being displayed). I see from previous posts that the upcoming firmware update will fix certain HDR darkness issues among other things related to this problem, but I haven't seen explicitly any mention of this Dynamic Black 1 issue being resolved. Hoping someone can answer this for me because honestly, the picture is phenomenal when Dynamic Black 1 is properly working -- but without it I don't think I can keep this projector.


----------



## aohus

LBThree said:


> Hello all, new to this forum and have had my Optoma P1 for only a couple of days now. Overall I'm pretty happy with the performance and with upcoming firmware updates I do not think I will need to return. However, regarding these upcoming firmware updates, I see that I am not the only one experiencing the issue where the picture with "Dynamic Black 1" will dramatically reduce in brightness/contrast/etc. sometimes immediately after being applied, sometimes after 10-15 seconds (seemingly depending on the brightness of whats being displayed). I see from previous posts that the upcoming firmware update will fix certain HDR darkness issues among other things related to this problem, but I haven't seen explicitly any mention of this Dynamic Black 1 issue being resolved. Hoping someone can answer this for me because honestly, the picture is phenomenal when Dynamic Black 1 is properly working -- but without it I don't think I can keep this projector.


they're aware of it but they have not directly commented on this issue. 

i'm under the impression that dynamicblack is working as intended, only brightening based on the internal ABL the projector has in place. i said the same exact thing but haven't received a response yet... i have one more day to get a response on this, if not i'll most likely return the projector


----------



## LBThree

aohus said:


> they're aware of it but they have not directly commented on this issue.
> 
> i'm under the impression that dynamicblack is working as intended, only brightening based on the internal ABL the projector has in place. i said the same exact thing but haven't received a response yet... i have one more day to get a response on this, if not i'll most likely return the projector


 @aohus

Thanks for info, sorry to hear you have such little time to make this decision...the fact that it will work for 10-15 seconds at a time leads me to believe that this is a software issue rather than hardware, but it is interesting to see (as I'm sure you have as well) certain scenarios where it will last only a tenth of a second. I cant quite put my finger on why there is such a difference in the time it will last, but in general whenever there is a quick change in color/brightness in the scene, the Dynamic Black 1 will terminate. I was originally worried that this might be some kind of thermal limitation or pixel shifting issue with the Texas Instruments 0.47" chipset but other projectors use the same configuration with no problems so I don't think it's hardware related.


----------



## aohus

LBThree said:


> @aohus
> 
> Thanks for info, sorry to hear you have such little time to make this decision...the fact that it will work for 10-15 seconds at a time leads me to believe that this is a software issue rather than hardware, but it is interesting to see (as I'm sure you have as well) certain scenarios where it will last only a tenth of a second. I cant quite put my finger on why there is such a difference in the time it will last, but in general whenever there is a quick change in color/brightness in the scene, the Dynamic Black 1 will terminate. I was originally worried that this might be some kind of thermal limitation or pixel shifting issue with the Texas Instruments 0.47" chipset but other projectors use the same configuration with no problems so I don't think it's hardware related.


For my use case, I actually reverted to calibrating the display myself and changing the setting to 100% Power. Dynamic Black gave inaccurate colors visually and my colorimeter confirmed this. I too hope that this is a software limitation and they will be fixing the Dynamic Black issue. 

The other major issue is that Optoma projectors do not support 12 bit 4:2:2 subsampling. If you're using a Shield TV / Pro and trying to play back 24p 4k content, the projector will not be able to take it and revert to 8 bit 4:2:2 mode. This is because the Shield TV does not support 12 bit 4:4:4, and the Optoma projector does not have 12 bit 4:2:2 support. Its essentially a bad pairing. 

I'm under the impression that this is what the Optoma PM was indicating that they're trying to fix? If not, I'll be forced to getting a Vertex 2 to force 12 bit 4:2:2 on top of adding Dolby Vision support

In the end I'll be keeping the projector but its unfortunate that the Optoma + Shield make a bad pairing.


----------



## USTGuy

LBThree said:


> @aohus
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for info, sorry to hear you have such little time to make this decision...the fact that it will work for 10-15 seconds at a time leads me to believe that this is a software issue rather than hardware, but it is interesting to see (as I'm sure you have as well) certain scenarios where it will last only a tenth of a second. I cant quite put my finger on why there is such a difference in the time it will last, but in general whenever there is a quick change in color/brightness in the scene, the Dynamic Black 1 will terminate. I was originally worried that this might be some kind of thermal limitation or pixel shifting issue with the Texas Instruments 0.47" chipset but other projectors use the same configuration with no problems so I don't think it's hardware related.


Havent notice the issue with Dynamic Black 1. Nor I intend to look for it 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

aohus said:


> For my use case, I actually reverted to calibrating the display myself and changing the setting to 100% Power. Dynamic Black gave inaccurate colors visually and my colorimeter confirmed this. I too hope that this is a software limitation and they will be fixing the Dynamic Black issue.
> 
> 
> 
> The other major issue is that Optoma projectors do not support 12 bit 4:2:2 subsampling. If you're using a Shield TV / Pro and trying to play back 24p 4k content, the projector will not be able to take it and revert to 8 bit 4:2:2 mode. This is because the Shield TV does not support 12 bit 4:4:4, and the Optoma projector does not have 12 bit 4:2:2 support. Its essentially a bad pairing.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm under the impression that this is what the Optoma PM was indicating that they're trying to fix? If not, I'll be forced to getting a Vertex 2 to force 12 bit 4:2:2 on top of adding Dolby Vision support
> 
> 
> 
> In the end I'll be keeping the projector but its unfortunate that the Optoma + Shield make a bad pairing.


Did you try to set the Shield at [email protected] bit 4:2:0 and see what happens that way?

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## aohus

USTGuy said:


> Did you try to set the Shield at [email protected] bit 4:2:0 and see what happens that way?
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


60hz at 10 bit 4:2:0 works fine but I refuse to watch in that mode when films are meant to be watched at 24 hz. The judder gets to me and films do not look as cinematic.


----------



## USTGuy

aohus said:


> 60hz at 10 bit 4:2:0 works fine but I refuse to watch in that mode when films are meant to be watched at 24 hz. The judder gets to me and films do not look as cinematic.


Wait a second, so you are telling me that this projector which by the way is advertised as supporting HDR10 (10 bit 4:2:0) properly maps HDR10 but you rather play it in 24Hz and now only display 4K HDR in rec709?? To me that is not a fair tradeoff. I rather play everything in 60Hz and get accurate HDR10. Besides, 24Hz on 60Hz display is not that bad when you have pure motion set to 1 or 2

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## aohus

USTGuy said:


> Wait a second, so you are telling me that this projector which by the way is advertised as supporting HDR10 (10 bit 4:2:0) properly maps HDR10 but you rather play it in 24Hz and now only display 4K HDR in rec709?? To me that is not a fair tradeoff. I rather play everything in 60Hz and get accurate HDR10. Besides, 24Hz on 60Hz display is not that bad when you have pure motion set to 1 or 2
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


no... i prefer that I watch 24p content in 10 bit. I want both 24p and 10 bit. Not a fan of pure motion at all, or any simulated motion effect on displays


----------



## oneil50

I ordered mine Yesterday. 
It will replace my HT3550 which had huge bugs. 
I will also use an nvidia Shield. I never had a problem in 4.2.0 60Hz with so I hope there will not be with the P1. 
On the HT3550 the auto mapping was very good there was no need to change the brightness or the contrast when broadcasting HDR content. What about with this projector? 
I know that it switches directly to an HDR menu as soon as it detects the source, but should minor adjustments be made depending on the movie ?
Are all 3D DLP 144hz glasses support ?


----------



## USTGuy

aohus said:


> no... i prefer that I watch 24p content in 10 bit. I want both 24p and 10 bit. Not a fan of pure motion at all, or any simulated motion effect on displays


Shield doesn't do 24p at 10 bit, it can only do 24p at 12 bit 4:2:2
I'm not a fan of pure motion either, but when applied to minimum levels only help ease up judder without totally ruin that film look we seek.
I will keep my Shield at 60Hz 10 bit 4:2:0 until new firmware comes out. That's what I was doing this whole time anyway without even knowing.


Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

oneil50 said:


> I ordered mine Yesterday.
> It will replace my HT3550 which had huge bugs.
> I will also use an nvidia Shield. I never had a problem in 4.2.0 60Hz with so I hope there will not be with the P1.
> On the HT3550 the auto mapping was very good there was no need to change the brightness or the contrast when broadcasting HDR content. What about with this projector?
> I know that it switches directly to an HDR menu as soon as it detects the source, but should minor adjustments be made depending on the movie ?
> Are all 3D DLP 144hz glasses support ?


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KUIYUP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_h9l.Eb86GXFRR

If you keep Shield in 'Recommended' settings it will play ALL content properly, both 4K 10 bit and 1080p 8 bit.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## LBThree

aohus said:


> For my use case, I actually reverted to calibrating the display myself and changing the setting to 100% Power. Dynamic Black gave inaccurate colors visually and my colorimeter confirmed this. I too hope that this is a software limitation and they will be fixing the Dynamic Black issue.
> 
> The other major issue is that Optoma projectors do not support 12 bit 4:2:2 subsampling. If you're using a Shield TV / Pro and trying to play back 24p 4k content, the projector will not be able to take it and revert to 8 bit 4:2:2 mode. This is because the Shield TV does not support 12 bit 4:4:4, and the Optoma projector does not have 12 bit 4:2:2 support. Its essentially a bad pairing.
> 
> I'm under the impression that this is what the Optoma PM was indicating that they're trying to fix? If not, I'll be forced to getting a Vertex 2 to force 12 bit 4:2:2 on top of adding Dolby Vision support
> 
> In the end I'll be keeping the projector but its unfortunate that the Optoma + Shield make a bad pairing.


Do you feel like you were able to get the picture you want out of the 100% power setting? I've been trying to replicate this temporary Dynamic Black 1 image that I was talking about, but I can't seem to get that same bright and vibrant image yet. Although the 100% power setting is closer than the others to the temporary Dynamic Black 1, it still looks like a significant sepia filter has been applied.


----------



## mjbok

*Custom cut tempered glass*

Was thinking about something and wanted to get feedback from those more experienced in the UST than myself.

I have an entertainment center where the projector will go (replacing a wall mounted 65" tv). Due to the projector specs the height of the screen would be higher than I'd like. I found a local place that will custom cut some glass for me. I was thinking about leaving the top shelf in, but replacing it with a hole for the light to go through. I would use the existing glass as a template so I knew where the hole had to go, and actually put the projector on the 2nd shelf and not the 3rd (top).

Has anyone done this? Is it a bad idea? I know the cost (nearly 200 bucks) is probably near the cost of a replacement place for stereo, ps3, etc, but this leaves the status quo as much as it can be with a 10 foot screen on the wall.


----------



## aohus

LBThree said:


> Do you feel like you were able to get the picture you want out of the 100% power setting? I've been trying to replicate this temporary Dynamic Black 1 image that I was talking about, but I can't seem to get that same bright and vibrant image yet. Although the 100% power setting is closer than the others to the temporary Dynamic Black 1, it still looks like a significant sepia filter has been applied.


yes i was able to get picture settings but thats only through advanced calibration by using a colorimeter like the i1Display Pro 3 or the i1Pro 3 (spectro). i do however, prefer the brightness from Dynamic Black setting. Try toggling back and forth between 100% and Dynamic Black and you will see a brightness change


----------



## oneil50

What's the différence when the P1 is "BT709 and HDR" and rec2020 when you are watching HDR or SDR content ?
First mode is only rec709 with HDR content or not ?


----------



## USTGuy

oneil50 said:


> What's the différence when the P1 is "BT709 and HDR" and rec2020 when you are watching HDR or SDR content ?
> First mode is only rec709 with HDR content or not ?


In my opinion bt709 and HDR can cause color banding 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## aohus

USTGuy said:


> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KUIYUP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_h9l.Eb86GXFRR
> 
> If you keep Shield in 'Recommended' settings it will play ALL content properly, both 4K 10 bit and 1080p 8 bit.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


thats simply not true... 

it won't play 4k 24p at 10 bit... the P1 does not support 10 bit 4:2:2 at 24hz playback...


----------



## eurovtec

LBThree said:


> Do you feel like you were able to get the picture you want out of the 100% power setting? I've been trying to replicate this temporary Dynamic Black 1 image that I was talking about, but I can't seem to get that same bright and vibrant image yet. Although the 100% power setting is closer than the others to the temporary Dynamic Black 1, it still looks like a significant sepia filter has been applied.


I Guess we are seeing the same thing.
Sometimes when you start to play a 4KHDR movie, at the beginning when the movie is launched, everything looks so beautiful and then the video dim. 
By toggling the brightness from DB1 to 100% to DB1 can “wake up” the colors/contrast, the colors are rich and the blacks are really black, but it only last a few secs.


----------



## eurovtec

aohus said:


> yes i was able to get picture settings but thats only through advanced calibration by using a colorimeter like the i1Display Pro 3 or the i1Pro 3 (spectro). i do however, prefer the brightness from Dynamic Black setting. Try toggling back and forth between 100% and Dynamic Black and you will see a brightness change


Same here, same observation on toggling the brightness mode.
DB1 will make this projector perform very well in lighted area & even better in dark room.


----------



## USTGuy

aohus said:


> thats simply not true...
> 
> 
> 
> it won't play 4k 24p at 10 bit... the P1 does not support 10 bit 4:2:2 at 24hz playback...


It will play 4K 24p at 60Hz 10 bit 4:2:0. I can live with that

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## LBThree

FYI to all you guys who are having the same problem I am with Dynamic Black 1 -- although I do not have any professional calibration device and am just going by eye, I am getting close to the image we want by using Power 100%, changing the gamma to "graphics", and the color temperature to "cool". I think the settings past that will depend on your specific setup, but I've found that this is a good starting point to work from.


----------



## USTGuy

LBThree said:


> FYI to all you guys who are having the same problem I am with Dynamic Black 1 -- although I do not have any professional calibration device and am just going by eye, I am getting close to the image we want by using Power 100%, changing the gamma to "graphics", and the color temperature to "cool". I think the settings past that will depend on your specific setup, but I've found that this is a good starting point to work from.


Color temperature Cool? 
Ok glad that worked for you. Just joking 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## LBThree

USTGuy said:


> Color temperature Cool?
> Ok glad that worked for you. Just joking
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Believe me I know lol, was surprised myself.


----------



## USTGuy

LBThree said:


> Believe me I know lol, was surprised myself.


Can you share full picture settings? Thanks

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## dazz87

..


----------



## USTGuy

For those of you who use Nvidia Shield TV or similar device with this projector, do you guys leave Shield's resolution on 4K or 1080p when watching 1080p content? 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Kdub69

USTGuy said:


> LBThree said:
> 
> 
> 
> Believe me I know lol, was surprised myself.
> 
> 
> 
> Can you share full picture settings? Thanks
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

 @USTGuy I have everything set, also have my fire stick set to 1080p 60hz and kodi 1080p and hdmi 1.4 I have a denon receiver I did all the changes should I see 3D under the user? I can toggle between settings in dlp am I missing something? 


3D: yes HDMI EDID seems like it must be set to 1.4 along with changing the source resolution to 1080p


----------



## jhbball2002

*Manual geometry correction, input lag?*

Just to confirm, I know using smartfit introduces additional input lag, but does manually adjusting geometry also introduce the same amount of input lag?


----------



## USTGuy

Kdub69 said:


> @USTGuy I have everything set, also have my fire stick set to 1080p 60hz and kodi 1080p and hdmi 1.4 I have a denon receiver I did all the changes should I see 3D under the user? I can toggle between settings in dlp am I missing something?
> 
> 
> 3D: yes HDMI EDID seems like it must be set to 1.4 along with changing the source resolution to 1080p


If you hit menu, 3D is the third icon from your left. Scroll to 3D formats and choose the format of 3D that applies to your source

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

jhbball2002 said:


> Just to confirm, I know using smartfit introduces additional input lag, but does manually adjusting geometry also introduce the same amount of input lag?


I personally never mess with any digital adjustments. When you do you are eating away pixels/cropping the original picture 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## eurovtec

jhbball2002 said:


> Just to confirm, I know using smartfit introduces additional input lag, but does manually adjusting geometry also introduce the same amount of input lag?


Optoma recommend manual to prevent lag. 


Spoiler

















Spoiler


----------



## USTGuy

Interesting find when using this projector with Nvidia Shield TV to watch 1080p content at 25Hz.
With my LG Oled TV, Nvidia Shield TV only gives me available display option in 25Hz when I select 4K resolution (not 1080p). With the Optoma P1, Nvidia allows me to select both1080p and 25Hz as display option. I watch a lot of European stuff in 25Hz (Babylon Berlin my favorite) so I keep my Shield on 25Hz most of the time









Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## mttjj

Any updates on release ETA? I tried to look through all the posts from last week but I may have missed it.



OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Everyone, we apologize for the delay. While we had targeted the FW release for the first half of this month (June) we are still not ready to release.
> 
> "I" rejected the last build as we need to improve some timing information and others aspects as we finalize resolving the 4:2:2 8-bit issue. My expectation is that we deliver the fix along with improved OSD timing information so that owners do not need to be uncertain about exactly which mode the Projector is operating in.
> 
> With that said, I will provide an update on the release date early to middle next week.
> 
> As stated previously the fix will resolve many issues:
> 
> 1. Improve the occasional flashing issue.
> 
> 2. Resolve 10-bit 4:2:2 and 12-bit 4:2:2 being displayed at 8-bit 4:2:2.
> 
> 3. Resolve 4K HDR BT. 2020 signal being displayed as 4K HDR BT.709.
> 
> 4. Display Mode issue -- After HDR content is displayed, Projector fails to fall back to previous Display Mode.
> 
> 5. Alexa Timeout Issue (example: Living Room is not responding).
> 
> 6. Improve Input Lag -- 4k60 will be 70-75ms and 1080p60 will also be 70-75ms -- down from over 100ms.
> 
> 7. Game Mode - Enabling will automatically disable SmartFIT and PureMotion (and 3D if enabled). Disabling Game Mode will return SmartFIT and PureMotion to their previous values. Enabled is required to meet the input lag in 6.
> 
> 8. Add TapCast -- Casting and Screen Mirror support. Casting supports User Generated Content.
> 
> 9. Few other minor fixes (will detail in a few future).
> 
> The upcoming release will target CinemaX P1 and CinemaX PRO.
> 
> Again, apologize for the delay but we strive to make sure the new build will address the major and minor issues with the projector. I have a higher standard than most and was not OK with releasing a build that I deemed substandard.
> 
> Any questions -- please let me know.


----------



## Thrust-Bot

Hopefully with this update Dynamic black gets fixed instead of momentarily brighten the image and dims when turned on.


----------



## Kdub69

mttjj said:


> Any updates on release ETA? I tried to look through all the posts from last week but I may have missed it.
> 
> 
> 
> OPTOMA PM DUDE said:
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone, we apologize for the delay. While we had targeted the FW release for the first half of this month (June) we are still not ready to release.
> 
> "I" rejected the last build as we need to improve some timing information and others aspects as we finalize resolving the 4:2:2 8-bit issue. My expectation is that we deliver the fix along with improved OSD timing information so that owners do not need to be uncertain about exactly which mode the Projector is operating in.
> 
> With that said, I will provide an update on the release date early to middle next week.
> 
> As stated previously the fix will resolve many issues:
> 
> 1. Improve the occasional flashing issue.
> 
> 2. Resolve 10-bit 4:2:2 and 12-bit 4:2:2 being displayed at 8-bit 4:2:2.
> 
> 3. Resolve 4K HDR BT. 2020 signal being displayed as 4K HDR BT.709.
> 
> 4. Display Mode issue -- After HDR content is displayed, Projector fails to fall back to previous Display Mode.
> 
> 5. Alexa Timeout Issue (example: Living Room is not responding).
> 
> 6. Improve Input Lag -- 4k60 will be 70-75ms and 1080p60 will also be 70-75ms -- down from over 100ms.
> 
> 7. Game Mode - Enabling will automatically disable SmartFIT and PureMotion (and 3D if enabled). Disabling Game Mode will return SmartFIT and PureMotion to their previous values. Enabled is required to meet the input lag in 6.
> 
> 8. Add TapCast -- Casting and Screen Mirror support. Casting supports User Generated Content.
> 
> 9. Few other minor fixes (will detail in a few future).
> 
> The upcoming release will target CinemaX P1 and CinemaX PRO.
> 
> Again, apologize for the delay but we strive to make sure the new build will address the major and minor issues with the projector. I have a higher standard than most and was not OK with releasing a build that I deemed substandard.
> 
> Any questions -- please let me know.
Click to expand...


I would also Like to know thanks!


----------



## aohus

following up here. confirming that if you do have a shield and optoma combo pair, 4k24p playback will show up as 8 bit 422. Its actually 12 bit 422 4k24p. Its a known bug not just specific to this model/manufacturer from my understanding


----------



## USTGuy

aohus said:


> following up here. confirming that if you do have a shield and optoma combo pair, 4k24p playback will show up as 8 bit 422. Its actually 12 bit 422 4k24p. Its a known bug not just specific to this model/manufacturer from my understanding


On mine I get color depth 10 bit 4:2:0 and color format BT709 and SDR

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## aohus

USTGuy said:


> On mine I get color depth 10 bit 4:2:0 and color format BT709 and SDR
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


then you're in SDR mode. I'm referring to HDR mode.


----------



## USTGuy

aohus said:


> then you're in SDR mode. I'm referring to HDR mode.


I am in HDR mode. When I play SDR content I get 8 bit 4:4:4/BT709 SDR

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

Anyone notice how changing power % seems to affect white balance on this thing? I find power 85% gives me a visually more accurate white balance (warmer) than 100% (colder)

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Jan L

Yes, especially from 95 to 100% it changed. My Optoma is currently in repair and i mentioned that issue, the Dynamik black pumping/Change in color and and some color Banding. They actually seemed to Know that issue and told me to fix it within 1-2 days. They were not to specific about it, so i will report If it got fixed as soon as i have it Back 🙂


----------



## USTGuy

Jan L said:


> Yes, especially from 95 to 100% it changed. My Optoma is currently in repair and i mentioned that issue, the Dynamik black pumping/Change in color and and some color Banding. They actually seemed to Know that issue and told me to fix it within 1-2 days. They were not to specific about it, so i will report If it got fixed as soon as i have it Back 🙂


So this is a hardware issue not a firmware issue? In my case power 85% gives me a more accurate D65 color temperature and picture still remains vibrant and punchy. At over 85% image gains a blue/cold color tone even when I select actual color temperature Warm. 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## eurovtec

Jan L said:


> Yes, especially from 95 to 100% it changed. My Optoma is currently in repair and i mentioned that issue, the Dynamik black pumping/Change in color and and some color Banding. They actually seemed to Know that issue and told me to fix it within 1-2 days. They were not to specific about it, so i will report If it got fixed as soon as i have it Back 🙂


Keep us updated.
Where is the Optoma guy...?


----------



## USTGuy

Most peofessional calibrators I spoke with and read from all seem to agree that it is best to leave DB disabled.
Honestly even power 100% seems off to me. 85% power is my choice

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Jan L

USTGuy said:


> Jan L said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, especially from 95 to 100% it changed. My Optoma is currently in repair and i mentioned that issue, the Dynamik black pumping/Change in color and and some color Banding. They actually seemed to Know that issue and told me to fix it within 1-2 days. They were not to specific about it, so i will report If it got fixed as soon as i have it Back ðŸ™️‚
> 
> 
> 
> So this is a hardware issue not a firmware issue? In my case power 85% gives me a more accurate D65 color temperature and picture still remains vibrant and punchy. At over 85% image gains a blue/cold color tone even when I select actual color temperature Warm.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

"“Anhand der Bilder sieht das nach Abgleich des Phosphor und Farbrads aus - zumindest die Farbverfälschung im Grau Gradient, demensprechend passen aber eigentlich auch die anderen aufgeführten Mängel. Die Regelung Laser und damit verbundene Änderung der Farbtemperatur schauen wir und dann auch an. Das kriegen wir hier recht kurzfristig erledigt, gängige Teile wie Mainboard haben wir auch am Lager. Bei uns wäre das Gerät dann etwa 1-2 Werktage“ Last Feedback I got
"
On the basis of the pictures, this looks like a alignmend issue of the phosphor and color wheel - at least the color distortion in the gray gradient, but the other deficiencies listed also fit accordingly. We take a look at the laser control and the associated change in color temperature. We get this done very quickly here, we also have common parts such as mainboard in stock. With us the device would then be about 1-2 working days"


----------



## Mikkle

The problem with setting Dynamic Blacks to anything other than 100% is the color tone shifts documented earlier in this thread. I leave mine on 100% for that reason. See here.


----------



## Jan L

Mikkle said:


> The problem with setting Dynamic Blacks to anything other than 100% is the color tone shifts documented earlier in this thread. I leave mine on 100% for that reason. See here.


Yep, but im wondering how on earth the reviewers could praise dynamic black and didnt see an issue. I still have Hope that this will Be fixed.


----------



## RobinsonCrusoe

You can get rid of the color shifting if you calibrate the PJ. I calibrated it with Dynamic Black 1 and the only thing that remains is little change in brightness, when a bright or dark scene is visible on screen.


----------



## Jan L

RobinsonCrusoe said:


> You can get rid of the color shifting if you calibrate the PJ. I calibrated it with Dynamic Black 1 and the only thing that remains is little change in brightness, when a bright or dark scene is visible on screen.


Thats something i thought of doing. Are you using an alr Screen? Maybe you could share your settings, so I could try before going through the hassle? I Know it would be best to calibrate the actual device on the Screen in use to get the best results. Thanks


----------



## USTGuy

Mikkle said:


> The problem with setting Dynamic Blacks to anything other than 100% is the color tone shifts documented earlier in this thread. I leave mine on 100% for that reason. See here.


Why not selecting power below 100% even? I have mine set at 80% and I'm getting the most natural white balance without any major loss of overall brightness in pitch black room.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Jan L

USTGuy said:


> Mikkle said:
> 
> 
> 
> The problem with setting Dynamic Blacks to anything other than 100% is the color tone shifts documented earlier in this thread. I leave mine on 100% for that reason. See here.
> 
> 
> 
> Why not selecting power below 100% even? I have mine set at 80% and I'm getting the most natural white balance without any major loss of overall brightness in pitch black room.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I did that, but then im not Happy With the black Levels and had to Switch to 50% in the evening


----------



## USTGuy

Jan L said:


> I did that, but then im not Happy With the black Levels and had to Switch to 50% in the evening


This is a projector not an Oled tv, there is only so much black level we can get out of it. I feel like 80% in dark room (standard 1.1 cinewhite screen) offers the best balance.
I just hope they fix the 4K color format and then I'll be totally happy.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## RobinsonCrusoe

Jan L said:


> Thats something i thought of doing. Are you using an alr Screen? Maybe you could share your settings, so I could try before going through the hassle? I Know it would be best to calibrate the actual device on the Screen in use to get the best results. Thanks


Hi Jan, I’m using an Elite Screen CLR screen. I guess my settings wouldn’t be useful to you, because you have to calibrate your pj to your screen. Different screen, different settings. 🙃


----------



## Micke S

USTGuy said:


> This is a projector not an Oled tv, there is only so much black level we can get out of it. I feel like 80% in dark room (standard 1.1 cinewhite screen) offers the best balance.
> I just hope they fix the 4K color format and then I'll be totally happy.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


I like this point about the black level. I think many people sometimes forget that we're talking about a technology where bright lights are shone on a white surface. Even in a completely dark room, black areas in the picture will not be black. Even movie theaters don't manage this feat. Comes with the territory.


----------



## USTGuy

Micke S said:


> I like this point about the black level. I think many people sometimes forget that we're talking about a technology where bright lights are shone on a white surface. Even in a completely dark room, black areas in the picture will not be black. Even movie theaters don't manage this feat. Comes with the territory.


Same goes for peak brighthess: I have people with 4K HDR TVs who don't get why I would want a 4K HDR projector that can't even pump half the nits their panels pump. But can you really imagine 1000 nits on a 100"-120" screen in a dark room for a 2-hour movie? It would be like having the sun sitting in your room and not pleasing to the eye at all.
I am of the opinion that brighthess is secondary when you project on a big screen and other factors become more important. 
On this Optoma model I feel that fine tuning picture settings at 80% power, gamma 2.4, color temperature warm, minimum sharpness (1 or 2 max) creates the most pleasing image to watch in dark rooms long term.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## WolfgangK7

I'm picking up this Optoma UST and I am a gamer; I don't game competitively but am interested in seeking out the lowest input lag time as possible.

Beyond what's called for in Game mode and turning off the Smart Fit and Pure Motion, are there any other factors even if very minuscule, that would benefit that input lag time? Brightness level, turning off HDR, things like that?

Just curious if Game mode essentially gets you down to 70-75ms, if there are any more that can be squeezed out.

Thanks!


----------



## bennutt

WolfgangK7 said:


> I'm picking up this Optoma UST and I am a gamer; I don't game competitively but am interested in seeking out the lowest input lag time as possible.
> 
> Beyond what's called for in Game mode and turning off the Smart Fit and Pure Motion, are there any other factors even if very minuscule, that would benefit that input lag time? Brightness level, turning off HDR, things like that?
> 
> Just curious if Game mode essentially gets you down to 70-75ms, if there are any more that can be squeezed out.
> 
> Thanks!



If it were possible I’d probably get one 
My limit is 50ms - when it reaches that while still displaying awesome color/contrast/resolution they have my money.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dinesh26uk

Hi

Have been using the UK version of the P1 and its been great. Does anyone know a remote code so that I can operate the volume via my xbox remote control?

Thanks!


----------



## iiikz

WolfgangK7 said:


> I'm picking up this Optoma UST and I am a gamer; I don't game competitively but am interested in seeking out the lowest input lag time as possible.
> 
> Beyond what's called for in Game mode and turning off the Smart Fit and Pure Motion, are there any other factors even if very minuscule, that would benefit that input lag time? Brightness level, turning off HDR, things like that?
> 
> Just curious if Game mode essentially gets you down to 70-75ms, if there are any more that can be squeezed out.
> 
> Thanks!


I think if there were, they would mention it. My understanding is that using “game mode” will automatically disable all of those things which further increase lag.

As it stands, the 70-75 ms goal is apparently part of what is driving the delay in the firmware update, and optoma pm dude essentially indicated in his posting that it won’t improve further.


----------



## bennutt

iiikz said:


> I think if there were, they would mention it. My understanding is that using “game mode” will automatically disable all of those things which further increase lag.
> 
> As it stands, the 70-75 ms goal is apparently part of what is driving the delay in the firmware update, and optoma pm dude essentially indicated in his posting that it won’t improve further.



And if you have to disable most of the features that make the projector awesome in the first place....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## chinmokutak

I'm assuming we haven't seen the updated fw yet?


----------



## ernest787

chinmokutak said:


> I'm assuming we haven't seen the updated fw yet?


Nope, not yet. Hopefully they give a release date shortly. 

I'd really like to get the HDR issue fixed soon so I can full enjoy this projector.


----------



## 2 Stangs

I currently have a JVC RS500 and an Optoma HD33 for 3D. Was thinking of getting something like the P1 for my new family room as I have a ceiling fan that is in the way. 



1. I see it listed as having a "solid state design of around 20,000 hours". Is the laser replaceable or is this thing junked when it goes? Are these units expected to dim over time?

2. Can I bypass using the internal speakers?



Thanks
John


----------



## mttjj

2 Stangs said:


> I currently have a JVC RS500 and an Optoma HD33 for 3D. Was thinking of getting something like the P1 for my new family room as I have a ceiling fan that is in the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 1. I see it listed as having a "solid state design of around 20,000 hours". Is the laser replaceable or is this thing junked when it goes? Are these units expected to dim over time?
> 
> 2. Can I bypass using the internal speakers?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> John


Not sure about the first question but, yes, the internal speakers are entirely optional. I have mine muted and have a soundbar connected.


----------



## asd210111

2 Stangs said:


> I currently have a JVC RS500 and an Optoma HD33 for 3D. Was thinking of getting something like the P1 for my new family room as I have a ceiling fan that is in the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 1. I see it listed as having a "solid state design of around 20,000 hours". Is the laser replaceable or is this thing junked when it goes? Are these units expected to dim over time?
> 
> 2. Can I bypass using the internal speakers?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> John


From my knowlege, these laser projectors' light sources are not replacable, correct me if I am wrong anyone.


----------



## 2 Stangs

Thanks guys!


----------



## mttjj

@OPTOMA PM DUDE has been MIA for a few weeks now. Any update on the update? I can’t be the only one who’s getting anxious.


----------



## Tung-Huy La

Does anyone know how to safely remove the front speaker grill? The speakers started rattling on the left side and I want to see what's going on inside but don't want to damage the grill by trying to force it open.


----------



## aohus

its been some weeks, any update on the status? otherwise ill need to review this product without it..


----------



## chinmokutak

I just went back a few pages, and realized we've been talking about this firmware that is supposed to fix the input lag to ~55ms since late SEPTEMBER / early OCTOBER....
Perhaps we need a reality check to see if Optoma is working/planning to release the new fw for P1. or will they reserve the fw for the p2 (I'm assuming there's going to be p2)


----------



## USTGuy

I thought someone already had new fw C15 installed (a few pages back)

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

It's because of tools like this guy that I am always very skeptic of YouTube reviews

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## mttjj

USTGuy said:


> https://youtu.be/jisMUe4Tc4U
> 
> It's because of tools like this guy that I am always very skeptic of YouTube reviews
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Summary? I don’t have the patience to sit through a 20 minute video.


----------



## mttjj

USTGuy said:


> I thought someone already had new fw C15 installed (a few pages back)
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


If I recall correctly the “Optoma Dude” stated that the Asia market decided to go ahead with an early/different version of the software. Why? I have no idea. But I would guess that we should wait for the “other” C14/15 releases. (If those ever happen - I’m losing hope )


----------



## USTGuy

mttjj said:


> Summary? I don’t have the patience to sit through a 20 minute video.


Although the guy is specifically attacking the Vava projector, the Optoma P1 is also mentioned. He basically goes on a rant singleing out Vava for stating that their projector is 6000 lumens and 4K when it's really 2500 lumens and 1080p pixel-shifting. Apparently he doesn't know that most UST projectors use pixel shifting and they are still advertised as 4K. What I find ironic is that he mentions the Viewsonic and Optoma P1 as being native 4K and how those two companies didn't have to LIE about their specs 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## SanDiegoGuy

USTGuy said:


> Although the guy is specifically attacking the Vava projector, the Optoma P1 is also mentioned. He basically goes on a rant singleing out Vava for stating that their projector is 6000 lumens and 4K when it's really 2500 lumens and 1080p pixel-shifting. Apparently he doesn't know that most UST projectors use pixel shifting and they are still advertised as 4K. What I find ironic is that he mentions the Viewsonic and Optoma P1 as being native 4K and how those two companies didn't have to LIE about their specs
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Also, go straight to the youtube link and scroll down on the comments section and see how many people stated that the Vava, Viewsonic, and P1 use the same type of shifting technology. I bet he now realizes that he is wrong so he made no defensive comments to those people that stated that those projectors are all pixel shifters.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1245&v=jisMUe4Tc4U&feature=emb_logo

Also, that magic paint that he is trying to sale is snake oil. To get the best image from UST projectors, it is best to get screens that is made specifically for UST projector. Do not be fooled into that magical black paint that he is trying to sale. If you go to Home Depot and mix some dark paint, I am sure you will get similar result to his magical paint.


----------



## USTGuy

SanDiegoGuy said:


> Also, go straight to the youtube link and scroll down on the comments section and see how many people stated that the Vava, Viewsonic, and P1 use the same type of shifting technology. I bet he now realizes that he is wrong so he made no defensive comments to those people that stated that those projectors are all pixel shifters.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1245&v=jisMUe4Tc4U&feature=emb_logo
> 
> 
> 
> Also, that magic paint that he is trying to sale is snake oil. To get the best image from UST projectors, it is best to get screens that is made specifically for UST projector. Do not be fooled into that magical black paint that he is trying to sale. If you go to Home Depot and mix some dark paint, I am sure you will get similar result to his magical paint.


It takes more than some paint to get a UST laser projector to look good. Also the wall would have to be perfectly flat and with absolutely zero blemishes, cracks, or dents.
If you watch Part 2 of his video the guy makes an even bigger fool out of himself by saying that just because projector central doesn't have anything on the Vava that must mean that Vava is a knockoff 





Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Jan L

chinmokutak said:


> I just went back a few pages, and realized we've been talking about this firmware that is supposed to fix the input lag to ~55ms since late SEPTEMBER / early OCTOBER....
> Perhaps we need a reality check to see if Optoma is working/planning to release the new fw for P1. or will they reserve the fw for the p2 (I'm assuming there's going to be p2)


Im also still waiting to get my Optoma Back from repair. It went from easy fix 1-2 days to 3 Weeks and Missing parts stuck in China. Ongoing with no end in sight.


----------



## SanDiegoGuy

USTGuy said:


> It takes more than some paint to get a UST laser projector to look good. Also the wall would have to be perfectly flat and with absolutely zero blemishes, cracks, or dents.
> If you watch Part 2 of his video the guy makes an even bigger fool out of himself by saying that just because projector central doesn't have anything on the Vava that must mean that Vava is a knockoff
> https://youtu.be/bCDXaBS8_1U
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


You are correct about the wall criteria.

It is really hard to watch and listen to that guy spewing all that false information about native 4k on non-Vava projectors. He would have more credibility about native 4K if he only compares the Vava with the Sony VPL-VZ1000ES.


----------



## USTGuy

SanDiegoGuy said:


> You are correct about the wall criteria.
> 
> 
> 
> It is really hard to watch and listen to that guy spewing all that false information about native 4k on non-Vava projectors. He would have more credibility about native 4K if he only compares the Vava with the Sony VPL-VZ1000ES.


I'll be the first one to tell you that the Vava is far from being a state of the art projector, but this guy's tone of voice and words he chooses really makes it seem as though Vava is behind this big illegal organization and that someone better alert the authorities because this projector is not really 4K and 6000 lumens....unlike the excellent Optoma P1 or Viewsonic by him mentioned in the video 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## ernest787

Yeah its getting frustrating waiting on this new FW especially when some markets have received an update. I cannot get my projector to have an image with BT2020 coloring which is supposedly fixed in this new FW. 

Frustrating when you pay this much for a projector and you aren't getting an actual HDR image


----------



## Kdub69

Why are we not even getting an update on the firmware release date? Is tge input lag not going to get fixed is this the big delay?


----------



## aohus

Hmmm... I know there is covid and all, but I don't think its appropriate to leave customer's hanging like this. I don't see myself purchasing another Optoma after this again.. Unfortunate since I feel bad for recommending this projector yet there is literally 0 support. I even called Optoma and they were not helpful in any way...

For all the lurkers that are thinking to purchase this projector. Wait it out. The projector is half broken at this time with buggy firmware. do NOT purchase this item until Optoma confirms they fixed the issues they promised earlier. 

As of now, Optoma's P1 is BROKEN


----------



## ernest787

I wish they would just offer thr FW update that the Asian market has at this point. That seems to fix the HDR issue at least. 

Id take that at this point


----------



## USTGuy

ernest787 said:


> I wish they would just offer thr FW update that the Asian market has at this point. That seems to fix the HDR issue at least.
> 
> Id take that at this point


Can't we just upload the fw from the Asian market somehow?

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## mttjj

USTGuy said:


> Can't we just upload the fw from the Asian market somehow?
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Here’s the instructions for downloading the update manually: https://www.optoma.com/ap/wp-conten...-FW-C14-update-SOPinclud-FW-download-link.pdf

I will say that I installed C14 about a month ago and I still experienced most all of the issues being discussed in this thread so I’m not 100% sure what this update included. (So I downgraded back to C12 again.)

Good luck.


----------



## USTGuy

mttjj said:


> Here’s the instructions for downloading the update manually: https://www.optoma.com/ap/wp-conten...-FW-C14-update-SOPinclud-FW-download-link.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> I will say that I installed C14 about a month ago and I still experienced most all of the issues being discussed in this thread so I’m not 100% sure what this update included. (So I downgraded back to C12 again.)
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck.


That is C14 firmware. What we need is C15.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

Will this projector work on black-painted wall?

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## mttjj

USTGuy said:


> That is C14 firmware. What we need is C15.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


I don’t think C15 has even been released in Asia.


----------



## USTGuy

mttjj said:


> I don’t think C15 has even been released in Asia.


I figure that much. I have always regarded Optoma as a solid company and owned two of their 2015 models in the past. Very disappointed that they're letting us hang like this.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## eurovtec

aohus said:


> Hmmm... I know there is covid and all, but I don't think its appropriate to leave customer's hanging like this. I don't see myself purchasing another Optoma after this again.. Unfortunate since I feel bad for recommending this projector yet there is literally 0 support. I even called Optoma and they were not helpful in any way...
> 
> For all the lurkers that are thinking to purchase this projector. Wait it out. The projector is half broken at this time with buggy firmware. do NOT purchase this item until Optoma confirms they fixed the issues they promised earlier.
> 
> As of now, Optoma's P1 is BROKEN


Yes I agreed.
Optoma’s parent company is Coretronic.


----------



## USTGuy

For those of you into 3D, I'm comparing 3D on this pj vs Vava and Optoma P1 wins hands down in the 3D department. 
I am using both connected to the same receiver, same 3D player, and using same glasses. This 3D is only second to my LG OLED passive 3D. I'm very pleased with it.
Also blows away 3D on my previous Xiaomi Mi 3D projector 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Kdub69

USTGuy said:


> For those of you into 3D, I'm comparing 3D on this pj vs Vava and Optoma P1 wins hands down in the 3D department.
> I am using both connected to the same receiver, same 3D player, and using same glasses. This 3D is only second to my LG OLED passive 3D. I'm very pleased with it.
> Also blows away 3D on my previous Xiaomi Mi 3D projector
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Anyway to get you to do a video guide on how you got 3D working on the p1, I did everything you asked but no luck


----------



## 2 Stangs

USTGuy said:


> For those of you into 3D, I'm comparing 3D on this pj vs Vava and Optoma P1 wins hands down in the 3D department.
> I am using both connected to the same receiver, same 3D player, and using same glasses. This 3D is only second to my LG OLED passive 3D. I'm very pleased with it.
> Also blows away 3D on my previous Xiaomi Mi 3D projector
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk



THANK YOU for this! I was just coming to post this very question. I have used fairly affordable Optoma DLP projectors for years and the 3D was always well done. When I upgraded to my JVC RS500, which is better in just about every other way from the DLP units, the 3D on it was completely unwatchable to me in comparison.


----------



## oneil50

USTGuy said:


> I figure that much. I have always regarded Optoma as a solid company and owned two of their 2015 models in the past. Very disappointed that they're letting us hang like this.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


What's wrong with the firmware ?
3D works, 1080p works very well, 4k HDR works ?


----------



## USTGuy

oneil50 said:


> What's wrong with the firmware ?
> 3D works, 1080p works very well, 4k HDR works ?


4K HDR works with wrong tone mapping at the moment

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

Kdub69 said:


> Anyway to get you to do a video guide on how you got 3D working on the p1, I did everything you asked but no luck


First of all, tell me what connected devices you are using and what steps you are taking to enable 3D

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## oneil50

USTGuy said:


> 4K HDR works with wrong tone mapping at the moment
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


When I read previous post, I found this :



> I updated the firmware to C14 recently, below are some of my observations:
> 
> 
> The colour format (space) is shown correctly (BT2020/HDR) after HDR mode kicks in. However, “BT2020” is shown even though SDR mode is used. BT2020/SDR is shown instead of Rec709/SDR under SDR
> 
> Use of Nvidia Shield TV Pro
> a. When playing Netflix 4k HDR movies: i. Although HDR is on and colour format shows BT2020/HDR, the colour of the video/movie is dull and dark. It seems to me that the actual colour space (format) is Rec709 instead of BT2020.
> b. When playing YouTube 4k HDR videos,i. HDR does not kick in and the colour format shows “BT2020/SDR”
> 
> Same as firmware C12 except colour format is now shown either BT2020/SDR or BT2020/HDR
> 
> c. Delay in change of display mode after playing HDR videos. The display mode does not change back to SDR immediately even though the HDR content is replaced by the SDR content. HDR mode remains on for a prolonged period or required manually switch off sometime. Before the firmware update, the display mode change from HDR to SDR (Cinema mode) immediately after the HDR content is finished.
> 
> 
> Use of Sony X700 4k Blu-ray Player
> a. When playing 4k HDR Blu-ray Disc:i. HDR kicks in and colour format shows BT2020/HDR no matter what output colour space (of my Sony X700) is set. The colour is rich and shiny. The same was found before the firmware update.
> b. When playing 4k HDR video on built in Netflix i. HDR kicks in and colour format shows BT2020/HDR no matter what output colour space (of my Sony X700) is set. However, the colour is dull and dark if the output colour space (of my Sony X700) is set to “Auto” or “4.2.2”. It seems to me that the actual colour space (format) is still Rec709 instead of BT2020.ii. When the colour space (of my Sony X700) is set to “4.4.4”, the colour is rich and shiny.iii. Same issue that I have been facing on C12 except the colour format is now shown “BT2020/HDR”
> c. When playing 4k HDR video on built in YouTubei. HDR kicks in and colour format shows BT2020/HDR when the colour space (of my Sony X700) is set to “4.4.4”. The colour is rich and shiny.ii. HDR does not kick in and the colour format shows “BT2020/SDR” when the colour space (of my Sony X700) is set to “Auto” or “4.2.2”. the colour is dull and dark (better than movies on Netflix)iii. Same issue that I have been facing on C12 except the colour format is now either shown “BT2020/HDR” or “BT2020/SDR”
> 
> 
> Other issue
> When home screen is displayed, the right hand side of the screen flickered randomly. (No such issue on firmware C12)


So actually, HDR works only with some HDMI setting ?


----------



## USTGuy

oneil50 said:


> When I read previous post, I found this :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So actually, HDR works only with some HDMI setting ?


Yes. And since 80% of my 4K HDR content is played on Nvidia Shield TV you can see why that is a big deal for me

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## oneil50

USTGuy said:


> Yes. And since 80% of my 4K HDR content is played on Nvidia Shield TV you can see why that is a big deal for me
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


I will receive mine the next week. I'm using Nvidia Shield too.

So can u confirm the actual setting :

For SDR, no problem.
For 4K HDR with Kodi or Plex : Which HDMI setting and X Bit should I apply ? 
For 4K HDR Netflix or Disney+ : Which HDMI setting and X Bit should I apply ?

When the P1 apply REC2020 and SDR mode, HDR looks good or not ?


----------



## USTGuy

oneil50 said:


> I will receive mine the next week. I'm using Nvidia Shield too.
> 
> 
> 
> So can u confirm the actual setting :
> 
> 
> 
> For SDR, no problem.
> 
> For 4K HDR with Kodi or Plex : Which HDMI setting and X Bit should I apply ?
> 
> For 4K HDR Netflix or Disney+ : Which HDMI setting and X Bit should I apply ?
> 
> 
> 
> When the P1 apply REC2020 and SDR mode, HDR looks good or not ?


On Nvidia Shield I get 4K BT709 SDR instead of 4K BT2020 HDR.
All other content that is not 4K HDR looks great,especially standard 1080p programs

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## oneil50

USTGuy said:


> On Nvidia Shield I get 4K BT709 SDR instead of 4K BT2020 HDR.
> All other content that is not 4K HDR looks great,especially standard 1080p programs
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


You can't watch correctly HDR content with your Shield ?


----------



## USTGuy

oneil50 said:


> You can't watch correctly HDR content with your Shield ?


The 4K resolution is fine, but the color space or whatever you call it is off. The projector seems to only play everything in bt709 SDR (which is inaccurate when playing 4K BT2020 HDR content)

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## oneil50

USTGuy said:


> The 4K resolution is fine, but the color space or whatever you call it is off. The projector seems to only play everything in bt709 SDR (which is inaccurate when playing 4K BT2020 HDR content)
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Did you try custum HDMI setting to fix it with HDR content ?


----------



## USTGuy

oneil50 said:


> Did you try custum HDMI setting to fix it with HDR content ?


Of course that was the first thing I went for. It's a projector-related issue , trust me

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## oneil50

USTGuy said:


> Of course that was the first thing I went for. It's a projector-related issue , trust me
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


I know, but if changing Shield HDMI setting to recognize HDR with the p1 its an issue before the next update.


----------



## USTGuy

oneil50 said:


> I know, but if changing Shield HDMI setting to recognize HDR with the p1 its an issue before the next update.


I always have Shield HDMI settings to match what I'm playing, including resolution, color space, and refresh rate

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## oneil50

USTGuy said:


> I always have Shield HDMI settings to match what I'm playing, including resolution, color space, and refresh rate
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Ok so which one are you using to watch HDR ?


----------



## USTGuy

oneil50 said:


> Ok so which one are you using to watch HDR ?


If the content is in 24Hz (most movies are) I select:
3840×2160 12 bit 4:2:2 @24Hz
However, if the video runs at 60Hz I'll just select:
3840x2160 10 bit 4:2:0 @60Hz

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## ernest787

The HDR issue a projector issue. Neither my Amazon TV nor my Panasonic UB820 will play HDR in bt2020. Instead they play it in BT709. 

No matter what I change the settings to it wont play in bt2020. 

They are saying the HDR issues will be fixed with the update and it seems the asian market that got a partial update had gotten this at least partially fixed.


----------



## aohus

ernest787 said:


> The HDR issue a projector issue. Neither my Amazon TV nor my Panasonic UB820 will play HDR in bt2020. Instead they play it in BT709.
> 
> No matter what I change the settings to it wont play in bt2020.
> 
> They are saying the HDR issues will be fixed with the update and it seems the asian market that got a partial update had gotten this at least partially fixed.


Try the C14 firmware update listed below in the signature section of my profile. 

I am on it and it plays 12b BT 2020 HDR without issue. 

The Optoma projector will show as 8bit 4.2.2. Its a bug. Its actually 12 bit 4.2.2. 

Confirmed by using the HDFury Vertex 2


----------



## USTGuy

aohus said:


> Try the C14 firmware update listed below in the signature section of my profile.
> 
> 
> 
> I am on it and it plays 12b BT 2020 HDR without issue.
> 
> 
> 
> The Optoma projector will show as 8bit 4.2.2. Its a bug. Its actually 12 bit 4.2.2.
> 
> 
> 
> Confirmed by using the HDFury Vertex 2


What's your Nvidia Shield display setttng? Do you use the one listed as (Recommended)?

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## oneil50

USTGuy said:


> If the content is in 24Hz (most movies are) I select:
> 3840×2160 12 bit 4:2:2 @24Hz
> However, if the video runs at 60Hz I'll just select:
> 3840x2160 10 bit 4:2:0 @60Hz
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Ok with these setting you can play HDR content withou any problem. But when you play SDR content on these setting color are ok ?
Or you need to change each time HDMI setting for HDR and SDR ?




aohus said:


> Try the C14 firmware update listed below in the signature section of my profile.
> 
> I am on it and it plays 12b BT 2020 HDR without issue.
> 
> The Optoma projector will show as 8bit 4.2.2. Its a bug. Its actually 12 bit 4.2.2.
> 
> Confirmed by using the HDFury Vertex 2


With these setting, you can play 4k SDR and HDR content wihout any problem ?


----------



## USTGuy

oneil50 said:


> Ok with these setting you can play HDR content withou any problem. But when you play SDR content on these setting color are ok ?
> 
> Or you need to change each time HDMI setting for HDR and SDR ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With these setting, you can play 4k SDR and HDR content wihout any problem ?


No matter what settings, this projetors is stuck on bt709 SDR. Therefore, content that is native bt709 sdr looks good, but content that is native bt2020 HDR looks off

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## calvinwalfred

I think I updated my projector to version 15 of the firmware a few weeks ago. Correction, it was version C14.


----------



## USTGuy

Where did you find C15 version?

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## calvinwalfred

USTGuy said:


> Where did you find C15 version?
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


I just checked and it was version C14.


----------



## USTGuy

calvinwalfred said:


> I just checked and it was version C14.


I downloaded firmware to drive, connected to projector's USB port, but it cannot open file. What am I doing wrong??

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## eurovtec

USTGuy said:


> I downloaded firmware to drive, connected to projector's USB port, but it cannot open file. What am I doing wrong??
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Refer to the steps. 
It’s not any USB port BUT a specified one just for FW upgrade. 
Once u plug in the USB with the FW in it, just need to power on the pj & everything goes as described in the procedure.
https://www.optoma.com/ap/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2019/10/P1-FW-C14-update-SOPinclud-FW-download-link.pdf


----------



## legnaz

My DynamicBlack setting isnt working either. Does that mean I need to send it in for repair?


----------



## eurovtec

legnaz said:


> My DynamicBlack setting isnt working either. Does that mean I need to send it in for repair?


Hi able to elaborate more if the same issue as mine?


----------



## legnaz

eurovtec said:


> Hi able to elaborate more if the same issue as mine?


This is the problem I am having as stated by another user. 

"I see that I am not the only one experiencing the issue where the picture with "Dynamic Black 1" will dramatically reduce in brightness/contrast/etc. sometimes immediately after being applied, sometimes after 10-15 seconds (seemingly depending on the brightness of whats being displayed). I see from previous posts that the upcoming firmware update will fix certain HDR darkness issues among other things related to this problem, but I haven't seen explicitly any mention of this Dynamic Black 1 issue being resolved."


----------



## eurovtec

legnaz said:


> This is the problem I am having as stated by another user.
> 
> "I see that I am not the only one experiencing the issue where the picture with "Dynamic Black 1" will dramatically reduce in brightness/contrast/etc. sometimes immediately after being applied, sometimes after 10-15 seconds (seemingly depending on the brightness of whats being displayed). I see from previous posts that the upcoming firmware update will fix certain HDR darkness issues among other things related to this problem, but I haven't seen explicitly any mention of this Dynamic Black 1 issue being resolved."


Then our problem is the same. 
I hope the Fw will address this issue.
I had emailed to Optoma HQ regarding the fw and they replied that their quality team is running endurance test.
Maybe @Optoma dude can shed some light on the progress.


----------



## legnaz

legnaz said:


> This is the problem I am having as stated by another user.
> 
> "I see that I am not the only one experiencing the issue where the picture with "Dynamic Black 1" will dramatically reduce in brightness/contrast/etc. sometimes immediately after being applied, sometimes after 10-15 seconds (seemingly depending on the brightness of whats being displayed). I see from previous posts that the upcoming firmware update will fix certain HDR darkness issues among other things related to this problem, but I haven't seen explicitly any mention of this Dynamic Black 1 issue being resolved."


I remember reading a few pages back that someone had sent in their unit fot repair because of this issue.


----------



## legnaz

legnaz said:


> This is the problem I am having as stated by another user.
> 
> "I see that I am not the only one experiencing the issue where the picture with "Dynamic Black 1" will dramatically reduce in brightness/contrast/etc. sometimes immediately after being applied, sometimes after 10-15 seconds (seemingly depending on the brightness of whats being displayed). I see from previous posts that the upcoming firmware update will fix certain HDR darkness issues among other things related to this problem, but I haven't seen explicitly any mention of this Dynamic Black 1 issue being resolved."


I remember reading a few pages back that someone had sent in their unit for repair because of this issue.


----------



## legnaz

Does everyone have the issue where you put on DynamicBlack and it looks good for a few seconds, then it dims and looks like crap? I just called Optoma, but they werent too sure of what it was and told me it might be a hardware issue. The guy on the phone didnt even know about any firmware updates, including the 14. Tech support sucks over there. I just want to know if everyone is experiencing this issue before I send it in. I got a feeling they are going to say nothing is wrong with my unit and dont want to waste my time sending it in. Thanks.

Also, can someone post their complete full video settings. Looking for the best settings for Graphics mode....it seems to be the brightess.


----------



## Thrust-Bot

legnaz said:


> Does everyone have the issue where you put on DynamicBlack and it looks good for a few seconds, then it dims and looks like crap? I just called Optoma, but they werent too sure of what it was and told me it might be a hardware issue. The guy on the phone didnt even know about any firmware updates, including the 14. Tech support sucks over there. I just want to know if everyone is experiencing this issue before I send it in. I got a feeling they are going to say nothing is wrong with my unit and dont want to waste my time sending it in. Thanks.


Mine has the exact same issue. Im holding out hope that this issue is resolved in a near future firmware update. Many of us here have the same issue. It is either a hardware issue or a software issue, hopefully just a software issue that they can patch. 

I read several reviews on this projector and not one of them mentioned the dynamic black problem, so the reviewers were given from Optoma a known good working problem free projector for a review  While we got the polar opposite.

We are all consumers here and we are the first one's to buy a product and the last one's to get the product fixed because of lack of in house testing that was not done in the first place.


----------



## Jasmin87

The HDR issue is very much still alive and so is the dynamic black problem. The only difference i can tell with firmware c14 is that input signal info is now displaying correctly Even though the image is still wrong 90% of the time. Basically It wil state that the input signal is correct but the image displayed will be dim and lifeless 9/10 times. Only way to circumvent it that i have found is switching EDID back and forth until the projector finally gets it right and you visually see the difference. Another way you can tell if the image is wrong is that There will be no discernable difference between the different HDR picture modes (bright, detail, film etc.). When the handshake gets it right toggeling HDR picture modes produces the desired effect. Im guessing the reason C14 hasent rolled out everywhere yet is that some regions have integrity and do not want to roll out an clearly cosmetic firmware update that doesnt fix anything really. When it comes to dynamic black , well that ****s just broken.


----------



## legnaz

Thrust-Bot said:


> Mine has the exact same issue. Im holding out hope that this issue is resolved in a near future firmware update. Many of us here have the same issue. It is either a hardware issue or a software issue, hopefully just a software issue that they can patch.
> 
> I read several reviews on this projector and not one of them mentioned the dynamic black problem, so the reviewers were given from Optoma a known good working problem free projector for a review  While we got the polar opposite.
> 
> We are all consumers here and we are the first one's to buy a product and the last one's to get the product fixed because of lack of in house testing that was not done in the first place.



Then maybe we should all send them in for repair so they see its a big problem. Im sending mine for repair. Who knows when a firmware will come out. How long is the warranty for anyway?


----------



## Thrust-Bot

legnaz said:


> Then maybe we should all send them in for repair so they see its a big problem. Im sending mine for repair. Who knows when a firmware will come out. How long is the warranty for anyway?


Keep us updated on the repair, I have not sent mine out yet as I use it as my main tv. 

Warranty seems good though, 2 Year parts and labor limited warranty on the projector, 5-year or 12,000 hour light source warranty (whichever comes first)


----------



## Mick Seymour

Tung-Huy La said:


> Does anyone know how to safely remove the front speaker grill? The speakers started rattling on the left side and I want to see what's going on inside but don't want to damage the grill by trying to force it open.


The lower half is held on by plastic lugs. Gently push the bottom of the grill upwards and pull it away from the PJ.


----------



## USTGuy

legnaz said:


> Then maybe we should all send them in for repair so they see its a big problem. Im sending mine for repair. Who knows when a firmware will come out. How long is the warranty for anyway?


This js an issue that is affecting all units and I don't think it would need every unit to be sent out for repair. A simple firmware update should do.
If not, Optoma should post a recall on all sold units.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

Jasmin87 said:


> The HDR issue is very much still alive and so is the dynamic black problem. The only difference i can tell with firmware c14 is that input signal info is now displaying correctly Even though the image is still wrong 90% of the time. Basically It wil state that the input signal is correct but the image displayed will be dim and lifeless 9/10 times. Only way to circumvent it that i have found is switching EDID back and forth until the projector finally gets it right and you visually see the difference. Another way you can tell if the image is wrong is that There will be no discernable difference between the different HDR picture modes (bright, detail, film etc.). When the handshake gets it right toggeling HDR picture modes produces the desired effect. Im guessing the reason C14 hasent rolled out everywhere yet is that some regions have integrity and do not want to roll out an clearly cosmetic firmware update that doesnt fix anything really. When it comes to dynamic black , well that ****s just broken.


Can you switch EDID back and forth during playback or do you have to go to Optoma main menu page every time?

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## oneil50

When I'm watching these video, there is no problem with HDR ...


----------



## eurovtec

oneil50 said:


> When I'm watching these video, there is no problem with HDR ...
> https://youtu.be/QJwkWMYpHG8


I think He’s playing all the videos from Netflix.
So I suppose it’s all streaming videos.
For the HDR dimming and dynamic black issue, i believe all of us who encounter these problems is we play 4k Blu-ray content from disc that has a high bitrate.
Streaming video has a lower bitrate as compared to the disc. 
That’s the only reason i could think of. 

For the dynamic black, he didn’t go to the brightness option to toggle and check. 
I didn’t know i have dynamic black issue until someone pointed out and i tried it out and see the difference myself.
I Guess many reviewers don’t really test the pj thoroughly enough.


----------



## Jasmin87

New to the forum couldnt figure out how to reply directly to a post but no you dont have to go to homescreen to switch EDID , but you do have to leave playback of whatever youre watching Because upon switching between 1.4 and 2.0 once done with flickering it will take you back to the menu screen or ittl throw up som playback error message on your device , so you cant do it «live» while watching your content. Usually i do the switching in the menu of a 4K HDR show on Netflix pauser in a scene Im very familiar with until i get the correct image, then ita a coin toss as to whether it will stay correct on changing shows or not, but its pretty obvious when its correct. The problem i described earlier is not exclusive to the nvidia shield either , same thing happens on my 4K Get boX (another android bades TV service her in This is really such a shame Because when it actually displays the correct image This projector is a thing of beauty in 4K HDR on an ALR screen


----------



## ernest787

My biggest frustration at this point is that we aren't getting any communication on the FW update. It's been almost 3 weeks since we last were told we would have a timeline on the deployment of the FW within a week. 

I was just messing with the dynamic black setting. Man the image really pops when the dynamic black works for the 30-40 seconds before it dims. I know there hasn't been a clear answer if this will be fixed in the FW update but I'm hopeful it's addressed along with the HDR issue. 

I almost wish I would have just spent the extra money and got the LG.


----------



## legnaz

ernest787 said:


> My biggest frustration at this point is that we aren't getting any communication on the FW update. It's been almost 3 weeks since we last were told we would have a timeline on the deployment of the FW within a week.
> 
> I was just messing with the dynamic black setting. Man the image really pops when the dynamic black works for the 30-40 seconds before it dims. I know there hasn't been a clear answer if this will be fixed in the FW update but I'm hopeful it's addressed along with the HDR issue.
> 
> I almost wish I would have just spent the extra money and got the LG.


Same here. And tech support sucks.


----------



## pinman082

tambur123 said:


> Almost finished with my setup. Now begins the hunt for an oppo bd player and a new avr. Screen is 120” clr fron Elite and cabinet is custom made with adjustable shelves height.


That is an awesome design!!!
What is the depth of your cabinet?
How far from the top of your cabinet it the bottom of the screen?

I am looking to get the same screen.


----------



## pinman082

Coltt said:


> Built this set up from scratch for the P1. It was a blank wall before. Awesome projector but this lag needs to be addressed
> imgur.com/gallery/bw7RsVP


What is the height of your ceilings?
What's the height of the screen bottom from the top of your projector?


----------



## USTGuy

Jasmin87 said:


> New to the forum couldnt figure out how to reply directly to a post but no you dont have to go to homescreen to switch EDID , but you do have to leave playback of whatever youre watching Because upon switching between 1.4 and 2.0 once done with flickering it will take you back to the menu screen or ittl throw up som playback error message on your device , so you cant do it «live» while watching your content. Usually i do the switching in the menu of a 4K HDR show on Netflix pauser in a scene Im very familiar with until i get the correct image, then ita a coin toss as to whether it will stay correct on changing shows or not, but its pretty obvious when its correct. The problem i described earlier is not exclusive to the nvidia shield either , same thing happens on my 4K Get boX (another android bades TV service her in This is really such a shame Because when it actually displays the correct image This projector is a thing of beauty in 4K HDR on an ALR screen


So what you are saying is that the menu has to stay open while playing something in order to toggle EDID option back and forth until correct image is achieved 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## USTGuy

oneil50 said:


> When I'm watching these video, there is no problem with HDR ...
> https://youtu.be/QJwkWMYpHG8


He also has his system set up at 60Hz not 24Hz

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## Jasmin87

Heres my step by step (completely stupid and depressing that i have to do this) recipe to project the correct 4K hdr image on a nvidia shield (works on my other media players aswell). Ill use Netflix as an example. Ill start the episode of the 4K hdr show i want to watch. If it gets it right straight away great (obvious with brightness and vividnes of colors)! , but usually this is not the case. If its dim/lifeless i play the episode, enter the projector menu , go to hdmi settings and EDID and swap to 1.4 and 0.5 seconds later back to 2.0 , i dont let it switch to 1.4 basically , i just want the handshake to renew on 2.0. After flickering Netflix will Usually say «cant play This content right now» . I quickly just click away that message and resume the episode , it does a new handshake and tada the correct bright and vivid image appears. The timing seems to matter in the way you do these steps as ive gotten it to a fairly high successrate . This gives me hope that its a software issue and Im holding of on RMA, but considering how long this projector has been out and how long it takes for updates to go live this doesnt look good and i hope people that are considering this PJ read these forums first , judging by reviews it almost seems like a conspiracy as almost every reviewer seems to be praising the pj to be the product of the year yet so many of us have these issues that it just doesnt make sense that none of them noticed these glaring problems , and some of these reviews are done by really talented people with in depth testing... optomas silence on this is so frustrating , this isnt a budget toy, we all spent alot of money on this and just want the product we were promised.


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## USTGuy

Jasmin87 said:


> Heres my step by step (completely stupid and depressing that i have to do this) recipe to project the correct 4K hdr image on a nvidia shield (works on my other media players aswell). Ill use Netflix as an example. Ill start the episode of the 4K hdr show i want to watch. If it gets it right straight away great (obvious with brightness and vividnes of colors)! , but usually this is not the case. If its dim/lifeless i play the episode, enter the projector menu , go to hdmi settings and EDID and swap to 1.4 and 0.5 seconds later back to 2.0 , i dont let it switch to 1.4 basically , i just want the handshake to renew on 2.0. After flickering Netflix will Usually say «cant play This content right now» . I quickly just click away that message and resume the episode , it does a new handshake and tada the correct bright and vivid image appears. The timing seems to matter in the way you do these steps as ive gotten it to a fairly high successrate . This gives me hope that its a software issue and Im holding of on RMA, but considering how long this projector has been out and how long it takes for updates to go live this doesnt look good and i hope people that are considering this PJ read these forums first , judging by reviews it almost seems like a conspiracy as almost every reviewer seems to be praising the pj to be the product of the year yet so many of us have these issues that it just doesnt make sense that none of them noticed these glaring problems , and some of these reviews are done by really talented people with in depth testing... optomas silence on this is so frustrating , this isnt a budget toy, we all spent alot of money on this and just want the product we were promised.


When you do that and then scroll to display info, do you now get the correct color space 10 bit BT2020 HDR?

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## Jasmin87

Yes but that never was the problem , since firmware C14 the inputsource allways reads correctly but the image is still wrong , thats what i meant by C14 being a cosmetic update in my previous posts, as it doesnt actually fix anything. They fixed the source signal information in the menu but the image is still clearly wrong. Back in c12 the method worked the same way but back then the input source would get corrected Seems like optomas way of insulting people and basically saying: «you cant tell the difference , see we fixed it , just check the input source , its all correct» i think thats why the optoma guy that poster earlier in This thread meant by the update not being ready or up to standards but someone made em push it out anyway, Yay...


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## USTGuy

Jasmin87 said:


> Yes but that never was the problem , since firmware C14 the inputsource allways reads correctly but the image is still wrong , thats what i meant by C14 being a cosmetic update in my previous posts, as it doesnt actually fix anything. They fixed the source signal information in the menu but the image is still clearly wrong. Back in c12 the method worked the same way but back then the input source would get corrected Seems like optomas way of insulting people and basically saying: «you cant tell the difference , see we fixed it , just check the input source , its all correct» i think thats why the optoma guy that poster earlier in This thread meant by the update not being ready or up to standards but someone made em push it out anyway, Yay...


So C14 only corrected the on screen display info but not the actual HDR issue itself?? 
Come on Optoma, this is a $3000+ display!!

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## Jasmin87

That is correct


----------



## USTGuy

Jasmin87 said:


> That is correct


That's sad. This is when my friends laugh at me and tell me that I could have bought the latest 65" Oled 4K tv with that money 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## Jasmin87

Yes , but when it works I’d take this projector over a 66 inch oled any day. The 100+ inch image is so immersive and pleasent to watch , bright, vivid and sharp huge image. Watching an oled at night is like turning on the sun its too much and strains the eyes. And as spoiled as it sounds 66 inch screen just feels to Small for me these days.


----------



## USTGuy

Jasmin87 said:


> Yes , but when it works I’d take this projector over a 66 inch oled any day. The 100+ inch image is so immersive and pleasent to watch , bright, vivid and sharp huge image. Watching an oled at night is like turning on the sun its too much and strains the eyes. And as spoiled as it sounds 66 inch screen just feels to Small for me these days.


Totally agree with you and reason why I got this pj. Plus new OLED TVs don't support 3D. 
Please Optoma, make this happen!

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## OPTOMA PM DUDE

Everyone -- Firmware Update. 

1. Testing has completed. All regions has signed off.

2. OTA DMT testing is now in progress. This portion of testing actually covers the upgrade process over internet download. This will take another week or two.

3. With that said, I am going to release the USB Version of the FW by Friday. I am currently sanity checking this build TODAY. If all goes as expected -- I am NOT expecting any issues -- I will clear the build. I will post the Link for download on this THREAD and will also be available via our website (URL to Dropbox Download). 

4. The USB FW release is for North America and Europe ONLY. For China/AP -- there is some localization and I believe their build will be released separately for that region.

Sorry for the delay but the FW encompasses all fixes and changes since late fall of last year. The FW will have some errata -- I will provide a list. The errata will be addressed in another build coming in late August to early September.

We appreciate everyone's patience as this has been a very trying time for everyone involved. In addition to maintaining existing products, we MUST keep moving forward as the "business climate" has shifted drastically since the beginning of the pandemic. In fact, most of us are still working from home as the SF Bay Area is effectively still on shelter in place. 

Last -- will catch-up on past posts and mentions over the next few days.


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

ernest787 said:


> My biggest frustration at this point is that we aren't getting any communication on the FW update. It's been almost 3 weeks since we last were told we would have a timeline on the deployment of the FW within a week.
> 
> I was just messing with the dynamic black setting. Man the image really pops when the dynamic black works for the 30-40 seconds before it dims. I know there hasn't been a clear answer if this will be fixed in the FW update but I'm hopeful it's addressed along with the HDR issue.
> 
> I almost wish I would have just spent the extra money and got the LG.


Yes -- this has been addressed in the build I will release on Friday. Sorry for the delay -- I don't like to commit until I can provide a clear answer. The FW update testing is a moving target. It includes many changes and the testing can be grueling -- as we must check new changes and additions -- and ensure that existing features are not broken.

For faster responses, I recommend messaging me on Reddit. This old forum structure of AVS is not mobile friendly and can be cumbersome.


----------



## oneil50

Firmware update for Optoma p1 are compatible with optima uhz65ust european ?
HDR auto mapping and HDMI setting are solved ?


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

ernest787 said:


> The HDR issue a projector issue. Neither my Amazon TV nor my Panasonic UB820 will play HDR in bt2020. Instead they play it in BT709.
> 
> No matter what I change the settings to it wont play in bt2020.
> 
> They are saying the HDR issues will be fixed with the update and it seems the asian market that got a partial update had gotten this at least partially fixed.


Also addressed in new build coming this week. With some source devices, the signal would fall to BT.709 instead of BT.2020. 

Here is an image: Apple TV 4K 4:2:2 12-bit BT.2020. Ignore the screen (not performing geometry testing) -- I currently have several test units running at home -- here I am testing with a pop-up screen in the kitchen.


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

oneil50 said:


> Firmware update for Optoma p1 are compatible with optima uhz65ust european ?
> HDR auto mapping and HDMI setting are solved ?


As mentioned in the previous post, North America and Europe -- this covers UHZ65UST. The HDR Color Gamut issue, signal displayed at BT.709 instead of BT.2020 has been resolved (see image in my previous). Same with Display Mode Bug (incorrect display on reboot or after playback of HDR content).


----------



## Jasmin87

Wohoooo , cant wait to try it out ! Sorry for the negativity, I just really love the p1s potential and it sounds like its gonna live up to it after this update.


----------



## USTGuy

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Also addressed in new build coming this week. With some source devices, the signal would fall to BT.709 instead of BT.2020.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is an image: Apple TV 4K 4:2:2 12-bit BT.2020. Ignore the screen (not performing geometry testing) -- I currently have several test units running at home -- here I am testing with a pop-up screen in the kitchen.


What about the issue with Dynamic Black switching off after a few seconds? Thank you.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

pinman082 said:


> What is the height of your ceilings?
> What's the height of the screen bottom from the top of your projector?


Input Lag has been improved drastically. Below are screenshots from the Leo Bodnar 1080p and 4K Input Lag Testers. We will NO longer post data from "Oscilloscope Testing" as the performance is a bit "too raw". 4K and 1080p had "different" causes for the high input lag. For 4K -- the lack of bypass mode was the issue. For 1080p -- the backend scaler upscaling the signal to 4K UHD was the issue. Both have been resolved.  

With that said:

1080p60 = 72.6ms (Game Mode Enabled)
1080p60 = 141.7ms (Game Mode Disabled)
2160p60 = 72.7ms Game Mode Enabled)
2160p60 = 108.5ms (Game Mode Disabled)

This is achieved with "Game Mode" enabled. Game Mode disables PureMotion, disables SmartFIT (Geometry Correction) and enables bypass mode (SmartFIT). While we would like to push the numbers low --- it simply isn't possible.


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

Jasmin87 said:


> Wohoooo , cant wait to try it out ! Sorry for the negativity, I just really love the p1s potential and it sounds like its gonna live up to it after this update.


NO APOLOGY needed. As a hardware gamer and tech enthusiast -- I have the same attitude. This is why I am releasing the USB FW version ahead of the OTA.


----------



## RobinsonCrusoe

Great news. I hope the handshake problem where you have to change die EDID to 1.4 and back to 2.0 is resolved too. Otherwise i would get some image freezing (or frame drops) and wrong colors on some HDR movies on Apple TV like Lego Movie. Looking forward to the release.


----------



## mttjj

RobinsonCrusoe said:


> Great news. I hope the handshake problem where you have to change die EDID to 1.4 and back to 2.0 is resolved too. Otherwise i would get some image freezing (or frame drops) and wrong colors on some HDR movies on Apple TV like Lego Movie. Looking forward to the release.


I’m also hoping this is fixed. Apart from the audio sync issues going out to my Sonos Arc (which will be fixed by the HDFury Arcana) this freezing issue is my biggest problem with the projector right now.

Thank you for the update @OPTOMA PM DUDE. In a previous post you mentioned you are more active on Reddit. Are there any particular threads or subreddits we can follow to get more timely updates on P1 FW releases?


----------



## chinmokutak

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Input Lag has been improved drastically. Below are screenshots from the Leo Bodnar 1080p and 4K Input Lag Testers. We will NO longer post data from "Oscilloscope Testing" as the performance is a bit "too raw". 4K and 1080p had "different" causes for the high input lag. For 4K -- the lack of bypass mode was the issue. For 1080p -- the backend scaler upscaling the signal to 4K UHD was the issue. Both have been resolved.
> 
> With that said:
> 
> 1080p60 = 72.6ms (Game Mode Enabled)
> 1080p60 = 141.7ms (Game Mode Disabled)
> 2160p60 = 72.7ms Game Mode Enabled)
> 2160p60 = 108.5ms (Game Mode Disabled)
> 
> This is achieved with "Game Mode" enabled. Game Mode disables PureMotion, disables SmartFIT (Geometry Correction) and enables bypass mode (SmartFIT). While we would like to push the numbers low --- it simply isn't possible.


although I love better input lag, but any reason why datasheet still says 55ms?


----------



## Lee T

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> NO APOLOGY needed. As a hardware gamer and tech enthusiast -- I have the same attitude. This is why I am releasing the USB FW version ahead of the OTA.


I have tried the C15 version of the firmware from asia, and it's frustrating that game mode disables geometric correction, which would make my picture no longer fit onto my screen correctly. I understand that alteration of the geometry will inherently add some sort of lag, but losing geometric adjustments ruins the picture in other ways. FPS games are still unplayable with this level of lag for the most part. Will the latest update be the same way? What's the solution for those of us that need geometric correction and want improved input lag?


----------



## Mick Seymour

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> 1080p60 = 72.6ms (Game Mode Enabled)
> 1080p60 = 141.7ms (Game Mode Disabled)
> 2160p60 = 72.7ms Game Mode Enabled)
> 2160p60 = 108.5ms (Game Mode Disabled)
> 
> This is achieved with "Game Mode" enabled. Game Mode disables PureMotion, disables SmartFIT (Geometry Correction) and enables bypass mode (SmartFIT). While we would like to push the numbers low --- it simply isn't possible.



Can you explain what bypass mode is and whether it is user selectable? Neither the SmartFIT nor the PJ documentation mention it.


----------



## eurovtec

*Hi Optoma Dude. Just to be certain that our expectation about the “Dynamic black issue is addressed“ is aligned.*










I believe all users who are aware of this issue would want the picture quality to be the bright and vivid, not dim.
It’s addressed meaning the picture will be bright & vibrant?
I hope the new FW will not force the picture to stay dim when the dynamic black is toggled, and it’s considered addressed.

So could you confirm on this? Thanks!


----------



## Kdub69

Super excited for the firmware update just had a quick question do I just download the update to the usb and then what? Plug it in the optoma p1 will it be automatically recongnized or is there something I need to do inorder to upload it?


----------



## oneil50

I just receive my P1. Firmware is C12.
I'm using Shield TV.
Firstly, the projector is very bright and silent. his gabari is very impressive but it will quickly find its place. 
I first go through the internal media player with a external hard drive.
On SDR or HDR content the picture is very good. Special mention for the HDR which is really very bright the colors are really saturated.
However with my nvidia shield it is very complicated to have the correct tone mapping.
Mostly either an image washed out and lacking in contrast, or the application like Kodi or plex or Netflix closes and returns to the main menu.
I tried to search and I found a good compromise temporarily before the new update. If in the video settings of the nvidia I uncheck the REC 20 20 and REC 709 color matching, I get a washed image for all SDR content. However all HDR content that I tried was saturated and bright with good tone mapping.
To watch SDR content, simply tick this again.
I hope new update fix it !!

3D content are really Amazing ! 
I got some Split screen when projector start up for 3-4 seconds.

This is only first impression. I will do more today


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

Yes. 

To be clear:

1. There was an issue with HDR (auto mode) that resulted in a DIM image. DIM as in difficult to actually see (as if someone placed a filter over the lens). While people believe the root was with Dynamic Black -- it was NOT (yet often occured with Dynamic Black enabled. This issue has been resolved. 

2. Dynamic Black is NOT as bright as using 100% Power (No Dynamic Black). Dynamic Black mimicks an iris -- the brightness and contrast will adjust "dynamically" -- this is often noticable. This is by design. 

3. HDR Mode -- a tuned image had less brightness than a non-tuned image. Color accuracy and WCG will always result in a drop in brightness. What is the biggest challenge when it comes to HDR and Color Tuning??? Maintaining Brightness without destroying color! 
It is a constant balancing act. In fact there is a reason that high brightness projectors (4000lm, 5000lm, etc.) with high color accuracy do not exist in the consumer market. 

With that said -- several weeks of testing has yield no detectable issue with Dynamic Black. 

C14.3 Firmware release is tomorrow. 🙂




eurovtec said:


> *Hi Optoma Dude. Just to be certain that our expectation about the â€œDynamic black issue is addressedâ€œ is aligned.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe all users who are aware of this issue would want the picture quality to be the bright and vivid, not dim.
> Itâ€™️s addressed meaning the picture will be bright & vibrant?
> I hope the new FW will not force the picture to stay dim when the dynamic black is toggled, and itâ€™️s considered addressed.
> 
> So could you confirm on this? Thanks!


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

Yes, copy to USB -- power on P1 -- automatically updates. The first time you power off after the update, you will be promoted to upgrade the DDP and MCU -- this process takes roughly 30 min or so. Instructions are included with the update. 🙂



Kdub69 said:


> Super excited for the firmware update just had a quick question do I just download the update to the usb and then what? Plug it in the optoma p1 will it be automatically recongnized or is there something I need to do inorder to upload it?


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

Not user selectable and was only recently implemented. It is enabled via the Game Mode toggle. It simply bypasses the geometry functions of SmartFIT. This is a part of the input lag workaround. 🙂



Mick Seymour said:


> OPTOMA PM DUDE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 1080p60 = 72.6ms (Game Mode Enabled)
> 1080p60 = 141.7ms (Game Mode Disabled)
> 2160p60 = 72.7ms Game Mode Enabled)
> 2160p60 = 108.5ms (Game Mode Disabled)
> 
> This is achieved with "Game Mode" enabled. Game Mode disables PureMotion, disables SmartFIT (Geometry Correction) and enables bypass mode (SmartFIT). While we would like to push the numbers low --- it simply isn't possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you explain what bypass mode is and whether it is user selectable? Neither the SmartFIT nor the PJ documentation mention it.
Click to expand...


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

It is important to understand that ANY geometry processing affects input lag. SmartFIT requires processing and processing affects performance. 

To improve input lag, PureMotion and SmartFIT must be disabled. Game Mode also implements bypass mode for SmartFIT. 

For those who plan to game, I strongly recommend aligning the projector as best you can BEFORE using SmartFIT. This way the impact of disabling SmartFIT is minimal. In the SmartFIT installation guide there is a section on setup without SmartFIT. (www.optoma.com/support/SmartFIT)



Lee T said:


> OPTOMA PM DUDE said:
> 
> 
> 
> NO APOLOGY needed. As a hardware gamer and tech enthusiast -- I have the same attitude. This is why I am releasing the USB FW version ahead of the OTA.
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried the C15 version of the firmware from asia, and it's frustrating that game mode disables geometric correction, which would make my picture no longer fit onto my screen correctly. I understand that alteration of the geometry will inherently add some sort of lag, but losing geometric adjustments ruins the picture in other ways. FPS games are still unplayable with this level of lag for the most part. Will the latest update be the same way? What's the solution for those of us that need geometric correction and want improved input lag?
Click to expand...


----------



## Jan L

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Yes.
> 
> To be clear:
> 
> 1. There was an issue with HDR (auto mode) that resulted in a DIM image. DIM as in difficult to actually see (as if someone placed a filter over the lens). While people believe the root was with Dynamic Black -- it was NOT (yet often occured with Dynamic Black enabled. This issue has been resolved.
> 
> 2. Dynamic Black is NOT as bright as using 100% Power (No Dynamic Black). Dynamic Black mimicks an iris -- the brightness and contrast will adjust "dynamically" -- this is often noticable. This is by design.
> 
> 3. HDR Mode -- a tuned image had less brightness than a non-tuned image. Color accuracy and WCG will always result in a drop in brightness. What is the biggest challenge when it comes to HDR and Color Tuning??? Maintaining Brightness without destroying color!
> It is a constant balancing act. In fact there is a reason that high brightness projectors (4000lm, 5000lm, etc.) with high color accuracy do not exist in the consumer market.
> 
> With that said -- several weeks of testing has yield no detectable issue with Dynamic Black.
> 
> C14.3 Firmware release is tomorrow. 🙂
> 
> 
> 
> 
> eurovtec said:
> 
> 
> 
> *Hi Optoma Dude. Just to be certain that our expectation about the â€œDynamic black issue is addressedâ€œ is aligned.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe all users who are aware of this issue would want the picture quality to be the bright and vivid, not dim.
> Itâ€™️s addressed meaning the picture will be bright & vibrant?
> I hope the new FW will not force the picture to stay dim when the dynamic black is toggled, and itâ€™️s considered addressed.
> 
> So could you confirm on this? Thanks!
Click to expand...

I knew it. So basically what you are saying is, that the "bright punchy vibrant Image" We See when toggling it in, is just a wrong short transitioning effect before going Into the "Dim" picture with the brightness calculated for the currently shown content? Or could this be the hdr Auto Mode issue, even though the content is not hdr? Its not that we want a picture brighter than 100%, but a vibrant bright Image and not the dull dimmed Image it turns Into 😕 

Cant you implement Dynamik black 0.5? I dont want to notice it that obvious. Maybe a Mode in which at least totally black Transitions between a new Scene, Turn the darkest possible? Customizable? 😄

I had my unit in repair, also mentioned the Dynamic black issue, but because of Missing parts im getting a Brand new which is good i guess, but cant See If they were able to fix it. I Hope the new one doesnt have the same issues...

Different question at optoma dude: with what settings are you running your Test devices? I had the Feeling that depending on the color settings, Dynamik black pumping was less noticeable. What are the best settings for a bright consumer friendly but not 100% calibrated setting, you would suggest? As you Said, calibration snd accuracy are a compromise between brightness etc.

Please dont say factory Default 😄

Last question. Is hdr Sim with its Faked peaks, brighter than other modes? Same as Real hdr?

Thank you!


----------



## USTGuy

Will the new fw adrress the issue that when in HDR mode, the various HDR options likr Standard. Film, Detail do not work?

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## ernest787

Can't wait to give this FW a go today. The HDR issue being fixed will be HUGE. Can't wait to see what some of my UHD disc look like with hopefully a brighter HDR image.


----------



## USTGuy

What's the size of the file for the new fw. I might have to buy a new usb stick.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Chrisb710

I think an external hard drive (Fat32) will work too.


----------



## eurovtec

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Yes.
> 
> To be clear:
> 
> 1. There was an issue with HDR (auto mode) that resulted in a DIM image. DIM as in difficult to actually see (as if someone placed a filter over the lens). While people believe the root was with Dynamic Black -- it was NOT (yet often occured with Dynamic Black enabled. This issue has been resolved.
> 
> 2. Dynamic Black is NOT as bright as using 100% Power (No Dynamic Black). Dynamic Black mimicks an iris -- the brightness and contrast will adjust "dynamically" -- this is often noticable. This is by design.
> 
> 3. HDR Mode -- a tuned image had less brightness than a non-tuned image. Color accuracy and WCG will always result in a drop in brightness. What is the biggest challenge when it comes to HDR and Color Tuning??? Maintaining Brightness without destroying color!
> It is a constant balancing act. In fact there is a reason that high brightness projectors (4000lm, 5000lm, etc.) with high color accuracy do not exist in the consumer market.
> 
> With that said -- several weeks of testing has yield no detectable issue with Dynamic Black.
> 
> C14.3 Firmware release is tomorrow. 🙂


Hi Optoma dude, 

*Is your statement 1,2,3 describing the current problems? *
*And the new FW will address these current 3 problems ?*

Sorry, I really dun want to get too excited and misinterpreting What u are saying about the new FW.


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

Everyone -- I WILL release the FW in a few hours (to this thread). 

NOTE: The OTA build will be ready in a few days (ahead of schedule).

You can update via USB today or wait for the OTA build - your choice. 

Stay Tuned.


----------



## solal-

Hi, 



Thank you, should we 'backup' our calibration settings or will they stay the same ? 



Concerning, the update I must say that I'm happy to have a better input lag, but to all that say that game is not playable with the current firmware that's totally wrong. 

I used the projector more than 1500 hours, on at least half playing game, I finished lot of games (and speed one like doom eternal) and play lot of matches of SFV online without problem. 

The most annoying bug for me is the switch from HDR to non-hdr that result in strange colors, so I had to shutdown and relaunch the projector. Also the projector as not a very good calibration 

settings out of the box and for most of things except digital recorded 4k movie or video games, it need to have the sharpness set very low or it result in too much noisy grain. (also I'm very closed to the screen from a longer distance it's less a problem).

I must say that after tuning some settings on the projector and my devices, I'm really happy with this projector, especially for gaming because the sharpness and the 4k make the differences. 









OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Everyone -- I WILL release the FW in a few hours (to this thread).
> 
> NOTE: The OTA build will be ready in a few days (ahead of schedule).
> 
> You can update via USB today or wait for the OTA build - your choice.
> 
> Stay Tuned.


----------



## aohus

solal- said:


> Thank you, should we 'backup' our calibration settings or will they stay the same ?


I would back up the settings. Possible that a recalibration may be required. Maybe Optoma PM Dude can shed some light on it? After updating FW, will the post calibration settings we had for older FW still work fine with new FW update?


----------



## mttjj

aohus said:


> I would back up the settings. Possible that a recalibration may be required. Maybe Optoma PM Dude can shed some light on it? After updating FW, will the post calibration settings we had for older FW still work fine with new FW update?


I may have done something wrong but about a month ago I installed the version 14 FW that was released for the Asia market (and then subsequently downgraded back to 12). When I did the update, all my settings were reset (and then again when I downgraded). So I recalibrated everything and got out a piece of paper and wrote everything down. If worst comes to worst I just go through and set the values to the calibrations I’ve already done. 

Hopefully, I just did something wrong last time and that doesn’t happen when upgrading this time. Or at the very least maybe there’s a software way to backup the settings.


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

aohus said:


> I would back up the settings. Possible that a recalibration may be required. Maybe Optoma PM Dude can shed some light on it? After updating FW, will the post calibration settings we had for older FW still work fine with new FW update?


Yes!

I am going to mention when I post today, but Yes -- backup settings as the USB FW Upgrade Version is performed outside of the OS -- therefore all settings are overwritten -- essentially a factory reset. If you do not prefer to backup the settings -- the OTA is the best option as settings are migrated.


----------



## J Bone

mttjj said:


> I may have done something wrong but about a month ago I installed the version 14 FW that was released for the Asia market (and then subsequently downgraded back to 12). When I did the update, all my settings were reset (and then again when I downgraded). So I recalibrated everything and got out a piece of paper and wrote everything down. If worst comes to worst I just go through and set the values to the calibrations I’ve already done.
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully, I just did something wrong last time and that doesn’t happen when upgrading this time. Or at the very least maybe there’s a software way to backup the settings.


If I recall correctly, there was an initial FW update available right after the available purchase date (approx late Oct.). Upon completion I don't believe it changed any of my calibrated settings.

Yours probably had to be hard rest in the update process due to the changes in the Region selection. This would apply on the second update as well since you had to change your Region selection back to N America even though you were downgrading. Safe to assume like many other Android based devices it would require a factory reset/reformat to install that particular FW version.

Best guess. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## J Bone

J Bone said:


> If I recall correctly, there was an initial FW update available right after the available purchase date (approx late Oct.). Upon completion I don't believe it changed any of my calibrated settings.
> 
> Yours probably had to be hard rest in the update process due to the changes in the Region selection. This would apply on the second update as well since you had to change your Region selection back to N America even though you were downgrading. Safe to assume like many other Android based devices it would require a factory reset/reformat to install that particular FW version.
> 
> Best guess.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Nevermind. Just saw the update. So is there a backup settings tutorial available w/ the new FW update? 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

Regarding Dynamic Black dimming, I found a little trick to keep the DB brightness from disappearing:
Once you switch to DB1 and obtain the desired vivid picture, quickly exit out of OSM and brightness will remain unchanged. If you let OSM up a few seconds too long screen will dim real quick 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Tenari

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Yes!
> 
> I am going to mention when I post today, but Yes -- backup settings as the USB FW Upgrade Version is performed outside of the OS -- therefore all settings are overwritten -- essentially a factory reset. If you do not prefer to backup the settings -- the OTA is the best option as settings are migrated.



Still coming today?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Kdub69

Also waiting for the update whats going on?


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

Here we go. 🙂


Firmware C14.3 USB FW Release, Release Notes and Known Issues is posted below.

MCU = C11 and DDP = C17

1. Ensure the format of the USB Disk is free of file system errors. I recommend formatting in FAT or FAT32 before copying the FW to the drive/disk. As someone who worked in Storage for 14 years -- strongly recommend the re-format. 

2. This update WILL wipe all settings as the update occurs outside of the OS -- it is the equivalent to a Factory Reset. BACKUP SETTINGS FIRST!

3. After the System Update is complete (boot from USB) -- REMOVE the USB Drive from the Projector or the UPDATE WILL OCCUR AGAIN on the next power cycle or power-on. 

4. FULL update instructions - included in the zip file with the FW.

5. Will happen by Sunday Evening.

URL: https://www.dropbox.com/s/u1hr5hyg6d3yf0u/CinemaX_P1_UHZ65UST_C14.3_USB_FW_Upgrade.zip?dl=0 
________________________________________________

*Package: C14.3 Release Notes (North America and Europe)*

Date: 07/24/2020

Models: CinemaX P1 (North America), UHZ65UST (EMEA/Europe). 

NOTE: The USB version of the FW Upgrade will clear ALL image and system settings (equivalent to factory reset). Please back-up settings BEFORE upgrading.

â€¢ 1080p 60Hz Input Lag Improvement (1080p60 = 72ms).

â€¢ 4K UHD Input Lag improvement (4K60 = 72ms).

â€¢ Gaming Mode Toggle -- Will disable SmartFIT and PureMotion. Enable for optimal performance (to achieve new input lag performance).

â€¢ Dim image when HDR is enabled and the content is 4K UHD HDR, 4K UHD "Non-HDR" or "SDR".

â€¢ Resolve HDR mode falling to REC.709 with 4K UHD HDR content instead of BT.2020. 4K UHD HDR content will now display as BT.2020 HDR.

â€¢ Display Mode bug - After HDR content is display or reboot of the projector, the Display Mode will revert to the previous setting instead of always defaulting to "Cinema".

â€¢ 4:2:2 8-bit issue -- 4K HDR 4:2:2 will now display at 12-bit instead of 8-bit.

â€¢ Continued improvement of the Image Flickering.

â€¢ Improve UI for Focus Function.

â€¢ Add TapCast Casting and Screen Mirror App.

â€¢ Add Bluetooth Audio Output.

â€¢ OSD/Quick Menu performance improvement.

â€¢ Marketplace Apps that displayed as vertical will auto change to horizontal.

â€¢ Infowall bug fixes.

â€¢ Keyboard bug fixes.

â€¢ Users in Europe will now have the ability to use Ceiling Mount Orientation.

NOTE: Ceiling Mount Orientation is NOT available during the out of box setup. It is only available in the OSD. Optoma does not sell a Ceiling Mount. Any use of a Ceiling Mount is at the userâ€™️s discretion. Optoma Customer Service will not assist with issues related directly to the mount as ceiling mounting Ultra Short Throw can be very difficult. Ceiling Orientation will not work with many UST ALR Screens and improper use of a mount can result in serious injury. Optoma recommends that a professional install the projector in the Ceiling Mount Orientation.


*Known Issues (to be resolved in next firmware release)*

â€¢ Green tint (on some black tones) with Gaming Mode enabled.

â€¢ Gaming Mode image cropping (very bottom of image -- minor).

â€¢ Flicker with 1080p120Hz signal.

â€¢ 100% Power -- (100% power may appear darker than Dynamic Black 1, 2 and 3).

â€¢ Black image when switching source from HDMI 1, 2 or 3 to Home (Launcher) with Gaming Mode
enabled.


----------



## Kdub69

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Here we go.
> 
> 
> Firmware C14.3 USB FW Release, Release Notes and Known Issues is posted below.
> 
> 1. Ensure the format of the USB Disk is free of file system errors. I recommend formatting in FAT or FAT32 before copying the FW to the drive/disk. As someone who worked in Storage for 14 years -- strongly recommend the re-format.
> 
> 2. This update WILL wipe all settings as the update occurs outside of the OS -- it is the equivalent to a Factory Reset. BACKUP SETTINGS FIRST!
> 
> 3. After the System Update is complete (boot from USB) -- REMOVE the USB Drive from the Projector or the UPDATE WILL OCCUR AGAIN on the next power cycle or power-on.
> 
> 4. FULL update instructions - included in the zip file with the FW.
> 
> 5. Will happen by Sunday Evening.
> 
> URL: https://www.dropbox.com/s/u1hr5hyg6d3yf0u/CinemaX_P1_UHZ65UST_C14.3_USB_FW_Upgrade.zip?dl=0
> ________________________________________________
> 
> *Package: C14.3 Release Notes (North America and Europe)*
> 
> Date: 07/24/2020
> 
> Models: CinemaX P1 (North America), UHZ65UST (EMEA/Europe).
> 
> NOTE: The USB version of the FW Upgrade will clear ALL image and system settings (equivalent to factory reset). Please back-up settings BEFORE upgrading.
> 
> • 1080p 60Hz Input Lag Improvement (1080p60 = 72ms).
> 
> • 4K UHD Input Lag improvement (4K60 = 72ms).
> 
> • Gaming Mode Toggle -- Will disable SmartFIT and PureMotion. Enable for optimal performance (to achieve new input lag performance).
> 
> • Dim image when HDR is enabled and the content is 4K UHD HDR, 4K UHD "Non-HDR" or "SDR".
> 
> • Resolve HDR mode falling to REC.709 with 4K UHD HDR content instead of BT.2020. 4K UHD HDR content will now display as BT.2020 HDR.
> 
> • Display Mode bug - After HDR content is display or reboot of the projector, the Display Mode will revert to the previous setting instead of always defaulting to "Cinema".
> 
> • 4:2:2 8-bit issue -- 4K HDR 4:2:2 will now display at 12-bit instead of 8-bit.
> 
> • Continued improvement of the Image Flickering.
> 
> • Improve UI for Focus Function.
> 
> • Add TapCast Casting and Screen Mirror App.
> 
> • Add Bluetooth Audio Output.
> 
> • OSD/Quick Menu performance improvement.
> 
> • Marketplace Apps that displayed as vertical will auto change to horizontal.
> 
> • Infowall bug fixes.
> 
> • Keyboard bug fixes.
> 
> • Users in Europe will now have the ability to use Ceiling Mount Orientation.
> 
> NOTE: Ceiling Mount Orientation is NOT available during the out of box setup. It is only available in the OSD. Optoma does not sell a Ceiling Mount. Any use of a Ceiling Mount is at the user’s discretion. Optoma Customer Service will not assist with issues related directly to the mount as ceiling mounting Ultra Short Throw can be very difficult. Ceiling Orientation will not work with many UST ALR Screens and improper use of a mount can result in serious injury. Optoma recommends that a professional install the projector in the Ceiling Mount Orientation.
> 
> 
> *Known Issues (to be resolved in next firmware release)*
> 
> • Green tint (on some black tones) with Gaming Mode enabled.
> 
> • Gaming Mode image cropping (very bottom of image -- minor).
> 
> • Flicker with 1080p120Hz signal.
> 
> • 100% Power -- (100% power may appear darker than Dynamic Black 1, 2 and 3).
> 
> • Black image when switching source from HDMI 1, 2 or 3 to Home (Launcher) with Gaming Mode
> enabled.



Awesome thank you! 



So if we don't want to do the upgrade via usb then it will be available via system upgrade on this Sunday evening and we can then keep out calibrated settings? Is this confirmed 100% that it will be available this sunday and that we can keep our settings?


----------



## ernest787

I just did the update. Thank you for the ease of this and the simple instructions. 

I finally have a HDR image with the proper BT2020 color!!!!!!!!

The dynamic black issue also appears fixed. It's no longer dimming and providing a bright punchy picture. I'm only 5 minutes into this but so far this is exactly what I was hoping for.


----------



## ernest787

actually i take back the Dynamic Black issue. It does still dim in this mode. I'm guessing that is the intended function of it. That said the picture still looks much better and doesn't seem to have that "filter" look over it anymore.


----------



## oneil50

I did the upgrade. HDR and HDMI problems are solved. BT2020 appears on HDR content. 
Did you tick on rec709 to rec2020 color on NVIDIA Shield parameters ? 
When it's off color looks dull on SDR content. HDR works fine.
When I tick on, SDR is good, but when I play HDR, app close immediatly and Shield come back in SDR.


----------



## RobinsonCrusoe

Did the Update on an european Version, too. Sadly the most annoying bug is still present. Color space and frame drop on Dolby Vision movies on an AppleTV is still there. Tested with Lego movie, the movie still freezes shortly for a split second every now and then and color space looks off. I have to pause the movie and change HDMI EDID to 1.4 and back to 2.0 get get HDR colors and enable the flawless playback without freezing. So handshake seems to still be off.

Info says 12 bit 4:2:2 now which seems to be corrected. Picture still looks the same in HDR when not switching to 1.4 and back to 2.0. So i guess only the displaying of the info in the menu was updated and not the picture playback itself. But could be a tvos bug, too. 

Lets wait for the next update.


----------



## Jasmin87

I upgraded via this method to C14, this time around its not working for me. Fresh format on USB stick in FAT32. New upgradefile in root folder. Plugging the stick in doesnt start the upgrade on powering on the projector like last time. Im using the correct usb slot. It boots into OS normally. What am i doing wrong ?





OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Here we go.
> 
> 
> Firmware C14.3 USB FW Release, Release Notes and Known Issues is posted below.
> 
> 1. Ensure the format of the USB Disk is free of file system errors. I recommend formatting in FAT or FAT32 before copying the FW to the drive/disk. As someone who worked in Storage for 14 years -- strongly recommend the re-format.
> 
> 2. This update WILL wipe all settings as the update occurs outside of the OS -- it is the equivalent to a Factory Reset. BACKUP SETTINGS FIRST!
> 
> 3. After the System Update is complete (boot from USB) -- REMOVE the USB Drive from the Projector or the UPDATE WILL OCCUR AGAIN on the next power cycle or power-on.
> 
> 4. FULL update instructions - included in the zip file with the FW.
> 
> 5. Will happen by Sunday Evening.
> 
> URL: https://www.dropbox.com/s/u1hr5hyg6d3yf0u/CinemaX_P1_UHZ65UST_C14.3_USB_FW_Upgrade.zip?dl=0
> ________________________________________________
> 
> *Package: C14.3 Release Notes (North America and Europe)*
> 
> Date: 07/24/2020
> 
> Models: CinemaX P1 (North America), UHZ65UST (EMEA/Europe).
> 
> NOTE: The USB version of the FW Upgrade will clear ALL image and system settings (equivalent to factory reset). Please back-up settings BEFORE upgrading.
> 
> • 1080p 60Hz Input Lag Improvement (1080p60 = 72ms).
> 
> • 4K UHD Input Lag improvement (4K60 = 72ms).
> 
> • Gaming Mode Toggle -- Will disable SmartFIT and PureMotion. Enable for optimal performance (to achieve new input lag performance).
> 
> • Dim image when HDR is enabled and the content is 4K UHD HDR, 4K UHD "Non-HDR" or "SDR".
> 
> • Resolve HDR mode falling to REC.709 with 4K UHD HDR content instead of BT.2020. 4K UHD HDR content will now display as BT.2020 HDR.
> 
> • Display Mode bug - After HDR content is display or reboot of the projector, the Display Mode will revert to the previous setting instead of always defaulting to "Cinema".
> 
> • 4:2:2 8-bit issue -- 4K HDR 4:2:2 will now display at 12-bit instead of 8-bit.
> 
> • Continued improvement of the Image Flickering.
> 
> • Improve UI for Focus Function.
> 
> • Add TapCast Casting and Screen Mirror App.
> 
> • Add Bluetooth Audio Output.
> 
> • OSD/Quick Menu performance improvement.
> 
> • Marketplace Apps that displayed as vertical will auto change to horizontal.
> 
> • Infowall bug fixes.
> 
> • Keyboard bug fixes.
> 
> • Users in Europe will now have the ability to use Ceiling Mount Orientation.
> 
> NOTE: Ceiling Mount Orientation is NOT available during the out of box setup. It is only available in the OSD. Optoma does not sell a Ceiling Mount. Any use of a Ceiling Mount is at the user’s discretion. Optoma Customer Service will not assist with issues related directly to the mount as ceiling mounting Ultra Short Throw can be very difficult. Ceiling Orientation will not work with many UST ALR Screens and improper use of a mount can result in serious injury. Optoma recommends that a professional install the projector in the Ceiling Mount Orientation.
> 
> 
> *Known Issues (to be resolved in next firmware release)*
> 
> • Green tint (on some black tones) with Gaming Mode enabled.
> 
> • Gaming Mode image cropping (very bottom of image -- minor).
> 
> • Flicker with 1080p120Hz signal.
> 
> • 100% Power -- (100% power may appear darker than Dynamic Black 1, 2 and 3).
> 
> • Black image when switching source from HDMI 1, 2 or 3 to Home (Launcher) with Gaming Mode
> enabled.


----------



## mbarac

*boot*

Hello to all,

my Optoma uhz65ust don't boot from usb ... I changed several models !!

There is some "secret" to know ? 

Thanks


----------



## RobinsonCrusoe

mbarac said:


> Hello to all,
> 
> my Optoma uhz65ust don't boot from usb ... I changed several models !!
> 
> There is some "secret" to know ?
> 
> Thanks



I just formatted a stick to fat32 and copied the masterfile to it. Then stuck it in the back usb port and powered the pj on. That did it for me.


----------



## Jasmin87

Mine worked after fat32 formatting with a 3rd party tool. System fw is now 14.3 but its not doing the 2nd part of the upgrade , the 30 min long one upon first shutdown. Am i supposed to put the usb stick back in after taking it out as instructed during system update ?




mbarac said:


> Hello to all,
> 
> my Optoma uhz65ust don't boot from usb ... I changed several models !!
> 
> There is some "secret" to know ?
> 
> Thanks


----------



## RobinsonCrusoe

Jasmin87 said:


> Am i supposed to put the usb stick back in after taking it out as instructed during system update ?


No, do not put it back in. When you first power it off there should be a message that there is a firmware update to do. Simply accept the message and the firmware update should start.


----------



## Jasmin87

Yeah thats the problem , Im not getting that message , system updates fine , but rest of firmware isnt starting . Gonna try a factory reset first then upgrading


----------



## Jasmin87

Factory reset still shows system fw 14.3 . Can you guys tell men what the rest of your software info sais in menu : 

Mine sais: system C14.3 , MCU C11.0 and DDP C17. The send part of the upgrade Wont start and i still have The same issues as before with hdr


----------



## RobinsonCrusoe

HDR issues are the same for me. Info says 12 bit 4:2:2 even if AppleTV output is set to Chroma 4:2:0. So i guess the HDR info panel is simply set to 12bit 4:2:2 regardless of what the input is. Same old EDID changing to get correct HDR playback. I tried to disable the automatic switching for dynamic range and frame rate on the AppleTV but this didn‘t change anything.


----------



## rayhk

Jasmin87 said:


> Mine worked after fat32 formatting with a 3rd party tool. System fw is now 14.3 but its not doing the 2nd part of the upgrade , the 30 min long one upon first shutdown. Am i supposed to put the usb stick back in after taking it out as instructed during system update ?


If you updated your FW from C14 to C14.3, I believe the 2nd part of the update will not be performed since the drivers of your P1 had been updated when you updated FW from C12 to C14.


----------



## Jasmin87

Yeah that could be it , since i was on C14 when i upgraded. After EDID switching once it got HDR right. Even while switching between SDR and HDR content, its still getting it right when switching to HDR content. Atleast its an improvement from before but i hoped the issue would be fixed entirely. Fingers crossed that that was the last time i have to do the EDID switch, but somehow i doubt it.


----------



## mttjj

RobinsonCrusoe said:


> Did the Update on an european Version, too. Sadly the most annoying bug is still present. Color space and frame drop on Dolby Vision movies on an AppleTV is still there. Tested with Lego movie, the movie still freezes shortly for a split second every now and then and color space looks off. I have to pause the movie and change HDMI EDID to 1.4 and back to 2.0 get get HDR colors and enable the flawless playback without freezing. So handshake seems to still be off.


Dang, that is so disappointing. This was the number 1 issue for me. @OPTOMA PM DUDE, can we at least get a confirmation that your team is aware of this bug? I noticed this issue when I watched the film “1917” a few weeks ago. I’m sure I speak for @RobinsonCrusoe when I say that we would be more than happy to share movies and timestamps with you to help troubleshoot the issue further. I use this projector solely with an AppleTV 4K so this is a big annoyance!


----------



## Jasmin87

Im unsure if my upgrade was completed correctly , can someone that has upgraded to c14.3 write here what versions of system , mcu and the last one they have after the upgrade? And do you guys have the new ceiling mounted projection option ? (I Dont which is what tipped me off to the upgrade maby not being correctly applied)


----------



## USTGuy

I rather wait for official fw to roll out at the end of the week

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## RobinsonCrusoe

Jasmin87 said:


> Im unsure if my upgrade was completed correctly , can someone that has upgraded to c14.3 write here what versions of system , mcu and the last one they have after the upgrade? And do you guys have the new ceiling mounted projection option ? (I Dont which is what tipped me off to the upgrade maby not being correctly applied)


Ceiling mount is there for me under projection modes. My info says:

System C14.3
MCU C11.0
DDP C17


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

The ceiling mount option is NEW for UHZ65UST ONLY. CinemaX P1 has had the option since product Launch -- under the OSD Menu and NOT the out of box experience (the initial setup). 

MCU C11 and DDP C17. 

Provide a screenshot of projection modes please?



RobinsonCrusoe said:


> Jasmin87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Im unsure if my upgrade was completed correctly , can someone that has upgraded to c14.3 write here what versions of system , mcu and the last one they have after the upgrade? And do you guys have the new ceiling mounted projection option ? (I Dont which is what tipped me off to the upgrade maby not being correctly applied)
> 
> 
> 
> Ceiling mount is there for me under projection modes. My info says:
> 
> System C14.3
> MCU C11.0
> DDP C17
Click to expand...


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

The OTA build is the exact same version. Just two different upgrade methods. 🙂



USTGuy said:


> I rather wait for official fw to roll out at the end of the week
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

Sorry -- added MCU version and DDP version to the initial post. 

MCU = C11 and DDP = C17.


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

For those of you on C14 -- where did you get the build? In the future, please do not upgrade to builds from other regions. This can cause unexpected issues and behavior. 

If you are not promoted to upgrade MCU and DDP -- it is because they are current already. 🙂


----------



## Jasmin87

Youre right , the installation completed correctly , the projection option is in the menu and the versions are correct . Was hoping something was wrong considering the HDR dimming problem is still there and i have to EDID swap to get rid of it , but now atleast it seems like i only have to do it once on powering on the projector.


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

I spent dozens of hours testing with Apple TV 4K, especially since the first report of the 4:2:2 was on Apple TV 4K. I did not experience the EDID, HDR issues, Color Space or Frame Drop in C14.3. 

Original Lego Movie? 

Which HDMI Port?

For others, please provide the movies with the issue (timestamp too) - I will investigate. 



mttjj said:


> RobinsonCrusoe said:
> 
> 
> 
> Did the Update on an european Version, too. Sadly the most annoying bug is still present. Color space and frame drop on Dolby Vision movies on an AppleTV is still there. Tested with Lego movie, the movie still freezes shortly for a split second every now and then and color space looks off. I have to pause the movie and change HDMI EDID to 1.4 and back to 2.0 get get HDR colors and enable the flawless playback without freezing. So handshake seems to still be off.
> 
> 
> 
> Dang, that is so disappointing. This was the number 1 issue for me. @OPTOMA PM DUDE, can we at least get a confirmation that your team is aware of this bug? I noticed this issue when I watched the film â€œ1917â€ a few weeks ago. Iâ€™️m sure I speak for @RobinsonCrusoe when I say that we would be more than happy to share movies and timestamps with you to help troubleshoot the issue further. I use this projector solely with an AppleTV 4K so this is a big annoyance!
Click to expand...


----------



## Jasmin87

https://www.optoma.com/ap/wp-conten...-FW-C14-update-SOPinclud-FW-download-link.pdf . Got the C14 FW from the US site. Saw somewhere on the forums here or elsewhere that they are compatible with the EU UHZ65UST so i upgraded. 



OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> For those of you on C14 -- where did you get the build? In the future, please do not upgrade to builds from other regions. This can cause unexpected issues and behavior.
> 
> If you are not promoted to upgrade MCU and DDP -- it is because they are current already. 🙂


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

Yes, correct. As stated in the release note, it is not available on first setup (out of box experience) -- only available under projection modes. 

With that said, the option is new for UHZ65UST only -- CinemaX P1 has had the option since product launch. 🙂



RobinsonCrusoe said:


> Jasmin87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Im unsure if my upgrade was completed correctly , can someone that has upgraded to c14.3 write here what versions of system , mcu and the last one they have after the upgrade? And do you guys have the new ceiling mounted projection option ? (I Dont which is what tipped me off to the upgrade maby not being correctly applied)
> 
> 
> 
> Ceiling mount is there for me under projection modes. My info says:
> 
> System C14.3
> MCU C11.0
> DDP C17
Click to expand...


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

That is NOT the US Site. AP is Asia Pacific. Please refrain from using builds from other regions as they are on a different code path --- thus often, versions do not align. 

What is your current DDP and MCU? 



Jasmin87 said:


> https://www.optoma.com/ap/wp-conten...-FW-C14-update-SOPinclud-FW-download-link.pdf . Got the C14 FW from the US site. Saw somewhere on the forums here or elsewhere that they are compatible with the EU UHZ65UST so i upgraded.
> 
> 
> 
> OPTOMA PM DUDE said:
> 
> 
> 
> For those of you on C14 -- where did you get the build? In the future, please do not upgrade to builds from other regions. This can cause unexpected issues and behavior.
> 
> If you are not promoted to upgrade MCU and DDP -- it is because they are current already. 🙂
Click to expand...


----------



## mttjj

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> I spent dozens of hours testing with Apple TV 4K, especially since the first report of the 4:2:2 was on Apple TV 4K. I did not experience the EDID, HDR issues, Color Space or Frame Drop in C14.3.
> 
> Original Lego Movie?
> 
> Which HDMI Port?
> 
> For others, please provide the movies with the issue (timestamp too) - I will investigate.


To be clear: I have not yet updated to the new firmware as I’m waiting for the OTA option. But I can give you info for what I’ve experienced on the C12 firmware. 

I am experiencing this with the film “1917”. There were many instances of the frame drops throughout the film but one of the first is around 16min 05-06sec. Just as the commander is taking a swig from his flask. I don’t remember specifically the other places but I can get those timestamps for you as well if desired.

AppleTV Settings: 
tvOS: 13.4.8
Format: 4K HDR
Chroma: 4:2:2
Match Content: Range & Frame Rate

I’m using HDMI port 2 on the projector. The only other things connected to the projector are an ethernet cable and a Sonos Arc soundbar connected via the optical port. If there are other projector settings you would like me to share let me know.

As was stated previously, the EDID trick (flipping to 1.4 then back to 2.0) appears to fix the issue for the duration of the film but the color issues/frame drops resurface if you exit the film and reenter.

Thank you for your response and for looking into this.

I have no reason to doubt user RobinsonCrusoe but I will be sure to also re-test myself with “1917” after I’ve done the firmware update via the OTA method. I also own “The LEGO Movie” so if @RobinsonCrusoe responds with frame drop timestamps I can test on my setup.


----------



## Jasmin87

Oh crap , thought that was the US site. The MCU and DDP are 11.0 and 17 respectively, so seems correct ?. Is there a manual C12-file somewhere so i can downgrade and repeat the process ?





OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> That is NOT the US Site. AP is Asia Pacific. Please refrain from using builds from other regions as they are on a different code path --- thus often, versions do not align.
> 
> What is your current DDP and MCU?


----------



## RobinsonCrusoe

A timestamp i always use in Lego Movie 1 is 
04:53. He is driving in a car and waving out the window. Thats when it hangs for a split second. I notice the change in colors too when i switch to 1.4 and back to 2.0. After the switch the movie runs flawless. I am using HDMI Port 1 but the AppleTV runs trough a Denon X4400 but with passthrough and no image processing. But i tested it with the AppleTv directly connected to the PJ too, with the same result. 

Thanks Optoma PM Dude for investigating. Much appreciated. 👍🏻


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

Yes --- Dynamic Black Dynamically adjusts the image based on the content. 

To be diligent, what content and what source?

There was an issue where the image would adjust (DIM), then remain DIM. This was resolved. And, while this occured with DB on - was actually an issue with the HDR Auto setting. 🙂



ernest787 said:


> actually i take back the Dynamic Black issue. It does still dim in this mode. I'm guessing that is the intended function of it. That said the picture still looks much better and doesn't seem to have that "filter" look over it anymore.


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

No -- this is NOT the case. 4:2:0 will display as 4:2:0. I just sanity checked. See attached image. 

Details? Content? Exact video settings?



RobinsonCrusoe said:


> HDR issues are the same for me. Info says 12 bit 4:2:2 even if AppleTV output is set to Chroma 4:2:0. So i guess the HDR info panel is simply set to 12bit 4:2:2 regardless of what the input is. Same old EDID changing to get correct HDR playback. I tried to disable the automatic switching for dynamic range and frame rate on the AppleTV but this didnâ€˜t change anything.


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

I assume that Match Content (Match Dynamic Range) setting is enabled when 4:2:2 is displayed with Apple TV 4K set to 4:2:0? With Match Content off, 4:2:0 is displayed when Apple TV 4K is set to 4:2:0. 

With this being a "Dolby Vision" title (Dolby Vision is 12-bit), Match Content will force 12-bit 4:2:2. Match Dynamic Range will need to be off to use 4:2:0 HDR10. 



OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> No -- this is NOT the case. 4:2:0 will display as 4:2:0. I just sanity checked. See attached image.
> 
> Details? Content? Exact video settings?
> 
> 
> 
> RobinsonCrusoe said:
> 
> 
> 
> HDR issues are the same for me. Info says 12 bit 4:2:2 even if AppleTV output is set to Chroma 4:2:0. So i guess the HDR info panel is simply set to 12bit 4:2:2 regardless of what the input is. Same old EDID changing to get correct HDR playback. I tried to disable the automatic switching for dynamic range and frame rate on the AppleTV but this didnâ€˜t change anything.
Click to expand...


----------



## RobinsonCrusoe

So i need to set my AppleTv to 4k HDR and turn the Automatic dynamic range matching off? I usually have dynamic range and frame rate matching on since i watch different stuff from SDR to HDR and 1080p to 4k. Always switching manually from 4k HDR to SDR wouldn‘t be so nice. I have set my AppleTv to 4k SDR with 60 hz and dynamic range and frame rate matching to on.


----------



## USTGuy

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> The OTA build is the exact same version. Just two different upgrade methods.


Tes but OTA won't wipe out all saved settings at least

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

Unfortunately, yes. If Apple TV 4K is set to 4:2:0 -- turn off March Dynamic Range. 

Honestly, not the biggest fan of how Apple implemented Match Content settings. Appears they assume that everyone is using a TV with Dolby Vision support. 

They should have added options to enable and disable HDR10 and Dolby Vision along with options for SDR content. 

Because they force the output with Match Content settings -- I am not sure if we can detect and override. I will brainstorm with R&D and "attempt" to discuss with Apple. As someone who worked on the World's First Thunderbolt Storage product with Apple (didn't work at Apple) -- they are not the most receptive when it comes to feedback. 



RobinsonCrusoe said:


> So i need to set my AppleTv to 4k HDR and turn the Automatic dynamic range matching off? I usually have dynamic range and frame rate matching on since i watch different stuff from SDR to HDR and 1080p to 4k. Always switching manually from 4k HDR to SDR wouldn‘t be so nice. I have set my AppleTv to 4k SDR with 60 hz and dynamic range and frame rate matching to on.


----------



## Tenari

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> I assume that Match Content (Match Dynamic Range) setting is enabled when 4:2:2 is displayed with Apple TV 4K set to 4:2:0? With Match Content off, 4:2:0 is displayed when Apple TV 4K is set to 4:2:0.
> 
> With this being a "Dolby Vision" title (Dolby Vision is 12-bit), Match Content will force 12-bit 4:2:2. Match Dynamic Range will need to be off to use 4:2:0 HDR10.



Can we just set the Apple TV to be 4:2:0 permanently or is there ever a reason we’d need to be in 4:2:2?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

I was referring to functionality -- but YES, OTA will not wipe settings. 🙂

While not the norm -- occasionally a reset after OTA is necessary. 



USTGuy said:


> OPTOMA PM DUDE said:
> 
> 
> 
> The OTA build is the exact same version. Just two different upgrade methods.
> 
> 
> 
> Tes but OTA won't wipe out all saved settings at least
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


----------



## USTGuy

Tenari said:


> Can we just set the Apple TV to be 4:2:0 permanently or is there ever a reason we’d need to be in 4:2:2?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


At least on Nvidia Shield TV color space must be on 4:2:2 in order to enable 24Hz instead of 60Hz

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> I was referring to functionality -- but YES, OTA will not wipe settings. 🙂
> 
> While not the norm -- occasionally a reset after OTA is necessary.


I assume Nvidia Shield TV must be set to 4:2:0 instead of 4:2:2 just like Apple TV? What's unfortunate is that only setting 4:2:2 will unable 24Hz on 4K HDR content

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## mttjj

USTGuy said:


> OPTOMA PM DUDE said:
> 
> 
> 
> I was referring to functionality -- but YES, OTA will not wipe settings. ðŸ™️‚
> 
> While not the norm -- occasionally a reset after OTA is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> I assume Nvidia Shield TV must be set to 4:2:0 instead of 4:2:2 just like Apple TV? What's unfortunate is that only setting 4:2:2 will unable 24Hz on 4K HDR content
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

‘Unable’ or ‘enable’? That’s a subtle but important distinction!


----------



## RobinsonCrusoe

Tried to deactivate the dynamic range matching and got 10 bit 4:2:0 on the Lego Movie. The stutter/freeze is still there. So i can guess i leave dynamic range and rate matching activated, cause it doesn‘t make any difference if i still have to change the EDID to 1.4 and back to 2.0 to get perfect playback regardless of AppleTV Video settings. Hopefully there will be a solution cause the EDID switching seems to be the only fix and plays Dolby Vision and HDR10 titles perfectly. There should be an automatism that resets the EDID setting if a HDR input is detected.


----------



## Jasmin87

Honestly its so much better having only to do it once per viewing now as opposed to 10+ times before the handshake got it right. Atleast its going in the right direction, even though its far from perfect. On my shield after EDID toggeling once it switches fine between SDR and HDR content , but thats just from limited testing today, hopefully ittl get completely fixed soon but its important they are aware that the HDR dimming problem is still very much around.


----------



## maverick87r

OPTOMA PM DUDE 

Seeing the same as other with Apple TV 4K. I have chroma set to 4:2:2 and match content and seeing the same freezing on lego movie as well. 

Info input from projector
12 bit and 4.2.2
BT.2020 and HDR

Apple TV 4K is running through pioneer vsx-lx503

Also seems like input lag may still exist. Seems like voices are still off when viewing 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## iiikz

anyone else using ps4? i’m seeing weird issues. almost seems like a cable issue, but i’ve never had an issue with cable or ps4 before.

i’m in game mode and periodically lose sync. blank screen, audio cuts out, and usually get colored static flash before it re-syncs.

happens every 5-10 minutes or so, sporadically. ive tried multiple cables, as well as disabling things like HDR and deep color in PS4 menus, but nothing seems to prevent them.

Update: when losing sync, the audio pops and cuts out, then everything goes black. it is jarring. when sync is restored, the image is dim and low contrast. toggling display mode restores a more accurate image.

Another odd effect: flashing lines on the right half of the screen. look almost like scan lines if some sort.


----------



## mbarac

*@optoma pm dude*

me again

after usb update 14.3, the projector entered in a loop, restart after SEE MORE HEAR MORE over and over again !

what I need to do now ? 

I did something wrong ?

thank you,


----------



## Mark Sherman

*firmware update via usb*



Jasmin87 said:


> Mine worked after fat32 formatting with a 3rd party tool. System fw is now 14.3 but its not doing the 2nd part of the upgrade , the 30 min long one upon first shutdown. Am i supposed to put the usb stick back in after taking it out as instructed during system update ?


I have tried 3 different usb sticks on 3 different machines, reformatting to fat32 and have had zero luck getting the machine to boot from the usb in spite of trying all 3 usb ports. I've unzipped and coppied the bin file, no luck. I have noted that during the failed process two new directories are created on the usb drive, one called Android with a file dated 1997 and another which I dont recall. Also the projector sees and can read from the usb....just doesnt seem to know to boot from it.

Is there something to toggle in order to get the projector to boot from the usb?
What am I missing ?????


----------



## oneil50

I agree this is better now, just looking a movie and I found some "problems".
I'am alone to get white band between movie and cinemascope band ?


When I was watching my movie, I appear 6-7 times in 90 minutes white point coming from a side and in a sec cross all screen very very fast. I was in 10BIT and 4.2.0. Dunno why never had this before.

I just change for 12Bit and 4.2.2 on shield TV, this is the only way to have correct tone mapping with HDR and SDR. When it was 10BIT and 4.2.0, I couldn't tick rec709 matching rec 2020 setting because It cannot mapping HDR . Then SDR was really dull.


----------



## mbarac

Mark Sherman said:


> I have tried 3 different usb sticks on 3 different machines, reformatting to fat32 and have had zero luck getting the machine to boot from the usb in spite of trying all 3 usb ports. I've unzipped and coppied the bin file, no luck. I have noted that during the failed process two new directories are created on the usb drive, one called Android with a file dated 1997 and another which I dont recall. Also the projector sees and can read from the usb....just doesnt seem to know to boot from it.
> 
> Is there something to toggle in order to get the projector to boot from the usb?
> What am I missing ?????


wrong USB port ... use the one near the HDMI ports !


----------



## eedwards86

iiikz said:


> anyone else using ps4? i’m seeing weird issues. almost seems like a cable issue, but i’ve never had an issue with cable or ps4 before.
> 
> i’m in game mode and periodically lose sync. blank screen, audio cuts out, and usually get colored static flash before it re-syncs.
> 
> happens every 5-10 minutes or so, sporadically. ive tried multiple cables, as well as disabling things like HDR and deep color in PS4 menus, but nothing seems to prevent them.
> 
> Update: when losing sync, the audio pops and cuts out, then everything goes black. it is jarring. when sync is restored, the image is dim and low contrast. toggling display mode restores a more accurate image.


Yup, i'm having this same issue when playing UHD HDR content on Nvidia Shield Pro. Video certainly looks better but now i'm getting random black screens and color flashes. Looks like this Firmware fixed some things but broke others.

I'm also having bad audio sync issues when attempting to use Nvidia Shield 23.98Hz. It's a little better in 24Hz but only 59.94Hz keeps sync.


----------



## hockey1980

Hi, newbie here, still have dimming issues with HDR material after update.

I have the UHZ65UST paired with a NVIDIA Sheild TV 2019 (outputing 4K 59.94 Hz YUV 240 10-bit Rec. 2020 HDR10 Ready)

I stream 4K HDR material via Netflix/Amazon Prime/Disney Plus. 4K HDR on apps only presents itself when EDID set to 2.0 else the apps stream HD. Also the projector then locks into 'HDR' display mode profile. Toggling between Brightness Mode of '100%'/'Dynamic Black 1' fires up an amazing picture for a few seconds and then dims which a lot of users experience

Not sure how people are doing the EDID toggling to get the bright HDR picture to stay for the duration, I get kicked out of the app (netflix/disney etc.) when i toggle EDID (HDMI Settings/EDID/ 1.4 2.0) ,...and then HDR cannot be detected by projector when i go back in so i reboot the shield to fix.

Also guilty of updating to what was the Asia C14 before moving onto C14.3 (now.... System 14.3/MCU C11.0/ DDP C17) the long 30 minute update didn't happen (where music plays etc), just the first part (blue screen ). 

Any thing stand out guys or @OPTOMA PM DUDE?


----------



## Mark Sherman

mbarac said:


> wrong USB port ... use the one near the HDMI ports !


I tried that one, as well as the other two!


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

This is not the behavior I experienced with a number of movies on Apple TV 4K. There is zero freezing and no HDR issues. 

I will get the 4K version of Lego movie this weekend -- and evaluate. 

Timestamp on the movie?

Which HDMI port? 

Included cable or your own? If your own -- how long is your cable? 

Apple TV 4K is the main reason we added additional Fiber Active cables to our AVL -- the signal gain is "weak" from the device. The only player on the market that has sync and signal attenuation issues with 10 or 15 foot cables. 



RobinsonCrusoe said:


> Tried to deactivate the dynamic range matching and got 10 bit 4:2:0 on the Lego Movie. The stutter/freeze is still there. So i can guess i leave dynamic range and rate matching activated, cause it doesnâ€˜t make any difference if i still have to change the EDID to 1.4 and back to 2.0 to get perfect playback regardless of AppleTV Video settings. Hopefully there will be a solution cause the EDID switching seems to be the only fix and plays Dolby Vision and HDR10 titles perfectly. There should be an automatism that resets the EDID setting if a HDR input is detected.


----------



## eurovtec

Mark Sherman said:


> I have tried 3 different usb sticks on 3 different machines, reformatting to fat32 and have had zero luck getting the machine to boot from the usb in spite of trying all 3 usb ports. I've unzipped and coppied the bin file, no luck. I have noted that during the failed process two new directories are created on the usb drive, one called Android with a file dated 1997 and another which I dont recall. Also the projector sees and can read from the usb....just doesnt seem to know to boot from it.
> 
> Is there something to toggle in order to get the projector to boot from the usb?
> What am I missing ?????


1)Format your USB to fat32. 
2)Then copy the fw into the USB.
3)With PJ in off mode, plug your usb into the particular USB port(below pic)


Spoiler















4)power on your pj. The blue screen downloading should appear.


Spoiler















5) Get ready for the Optoma screen to appear. Once you see that unplug the usb from the pj.


Spoiler


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

1. Got a report from Reddit as well. I will investigate Shield on Monday (need to pick up from office). Shield is really not the best player. In the very beginning, it did nothing right including incorrect HDR metadata. We seem to always be chasing Shield issues. 

2. REMEMBER, HDR is a tuned display mode. The brightness WILL drop 40% or so compared to 100% power (with Dynamic Black on or off) -- this is normal. Color accuracy will always comes at the expense of Brightness. Balancing color accuracy and brightness is the biggest challenge. This is why there are no consumer 4K projectors with high brightness (4000 or 5000 lumens) and high color accuracy. HDR mode will NEVER be as bright as 100% power in non-HDR mode or SDR mode. 

If you want BRIGHT. I suggest 100% power and HDR Picture mode set to "Bright". 

Also, Dynamic Black Mimicks an IRIS. The brightness and contrast will dynamically change based on Brightness and Contrast Level of the content. 

Please provide a picture in a "light controlled environment" (lights off) -- unless you are using an ALR Screen. If possible, capture in 4K or higher. 🙂



hockey1980 said:


> Hi, newbie here, still have dimming issues with HDR material after update.
> 
> I have the UHZ65UST paired with a NVIDIA Sheild TV 2019 (outputing 4K 59.94 Hz YUV 240 10-bit Rec. 2020 HDR10 Ready)
> 
> I stream 4K HDR material via Netflix/Amazon Prime/Disney Plus. 4K HDR on apps only presents itself when EDID set to 2.0 else the apps stream HD. Also the projector then locks into 'HDR' display mode profile. Toggling between Brightness Mode of '100%'/'Dynamic Black 1' fires up an amazing picture for a few seconds and then dims which a lot of users experience
> 
> Not sure how people are doing the EDID toggling to get the bright HDR picture to stay for the duration, I get kicked out of the app (netflix/disney etc.) when i toggle EDID (HDMI Settings/EDID/ 1.4 2.0) ,...and then HDR cannot be detected by projector when i go back in so i reboot the shield to fix.
> 
> Also guilty of updating to what was the Asia C14 before moving onto C14.3 (now.... System 14.3/MCU C11.0/ DDP C17) the long 30 minute update didn't happen (where music plays etc), just the first part (blue screen ).
> 
> Any thing stand out guys or @OPTOMA PM DUDE?


----------



## aohus

hockey1980 said:


> Hi, newbie here, still have dimming issues with HDR material after update.
> 
> I have the UHZ65UST paired with a NVIDIA Sheild TV 2019 (outputing 4K 59.94 Hz YUV 240 10-bit Rec. 2020 HDR10 Ready)
> 
> I stream 4K HDR material via Netflix/Amazon Prime/Disney Plus. 4K HDR on apps only presents itself when EDID set to 2.0 else the apps stream HD. Also the projector then locks into 'HDR' display mode profile. Toggling between Brightness Mode of '100%'/'Dynamic Black 1' fires up an amazing picture for a few seconds and then dims which a lot of users experience
> 
> Not sure how people are doing the EDID toggling to get the bright HDR picture to stay for the duration, I get kicked out of the app (netflix/disney etc.) when i toggle EDID (HDMI Settings/EDID/ 1.4 2.0) ,...and then HDR cannot be detected by projector when i go back in so i reboot the shield to fix.
> 
> Also guilty of updating to what was the Asia C14 before moving onto C14.3 (now.... System 14.3/MCU C11.0/ DDP C17) the long 30 minute update didn't happen (where music plays etc), just the first part (blue screen ).
> 
> Any thing stand out guys or @OPTOMA PM DUDE?


when switching to dynamic black mode it still dims after a few seconds. I believe this is expected and not something they will change, as the purpose of dynamic black is for the brightness settings to change based on whats being displayed but the implementation imo could be improved. would be nice if we have a means to keep it permanently brighter using dynamic black setting.

i haven't noticed any major changes beyond output source now correctly showing as 12 bit. HDR on Netflix and Plex at 4k 24p looks to be the same. I have not noticed if it has gotten any 'brighter' per FW 14.3 release notes. 

the picture quality settings remained unchanged after the update, but everything else went to its default settings. i didn't have to input my settings back into the PQ settings essentially. 

i plan to calibrate HDR settings for day mode to brighten the picture a bit while keeping color balance as optimal as possible. 

thanks for this update and hopefully the next will have even more improvements!


----------



## mbarac

*updating to 14.3*

After I select to update driver, projector closed and did not start ... I waited 4 hours !!

### only white led blinking every 20 second or so ###

I powered off electrical cord and replug ... same white led blinking 20 sec interval...

I plugged power presing on/off button and two red led fixed are on (like in the pictures attached).

PLease help with some solution ...

Thank you,


----------



## bbyrneozarch

It appears my projector just died after trying to update the driver. I have three blinking red lights and my machine will not power on. I ran the update and everything worked fine until the driver update popped up. Do I need to send it in for repairs?


----------



## mbarac

bbyrneozarch said:


> it appears my projector just died after trying to update the driver. I have three blinking red lights and my machine will not power on. I ran the update and everything worked fine until the driver update popped up. Do i need to send it in for repairs?


same hapend to me .... Post above yours ..


----------



## bbyrneozarch

Mbarac sorry to hear the same thing happened to you. I’m so pissed 😡 right now, I waited months to get the firmware update to fix all the problems and the update kills my machine. I hope others read this and avoid the driver update until there’s a fix. I wish there was an external reset button. I guess I’ll be sending this very expensive paper weight in to be fixed.


----------



## RobinsonCrusoe

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> This is not the behavior I experienced with a number of movies on Apple TV 4K. There is zero freezing and no HDR issues.
> I will get the 4K version of Lego movie this weekend -- and evaluate.
> Timestamp on the movie?
> Which HDMI port?
> Included cable or your own? If your own -- how long is your cable?


*Lego Movie Time stamp: 04:53* He is driving in a car and waving out the window. Thats when it hangs for a split second. 
For HDMI i use port 1 which runs to a Denon X4400 with no image processing activated on the Denon. The AppleTV, a PS4 and Xbox One X are connected to the Denon 4400. I had the same setup with 1,5 meter high speed hdmi cables running with a LG Oled for some time And never experienced problem even with Dolby Vision playback. Then i just switched out the tv for the Optoma. I tried to hook up the AppleTv directly to the pj but with the same results. 
Funny thing is, that the EDID changing makes the problem go away, so i guess it‘s bot the cables. 
Really great that you are checking it out Optoma PM Dude. Thanks for the great feedback and support.


----------



## Jasmin87

Cant do multiquote on mobile so ill just write in bulletpoints;

1. The white band between image and cinemascope on shield is not an isolated case with you, I have it aswell and its not an issue introduced in this FW , was present in C12 and C14, and now C14.3 on my UHZ65UST. Never bothered mentioning anything because its barely noticeable, pretty much only visible in dark scenes and if youre looking for it , but i get that it would bother some.

2. The dynamic black issue where it appears brighter then 100% is clearly a bug as why would an enhanced contrast setting give a net increase in brightness over a max brightness setting ?! When it dims after a few seconds after toggeling dynamic black on THATS the way its supposed to look. Personally not a fan AS its too noticable a brightness change during scene transitions of whatever you are watching. And honestly have you actually taken the time to look at the image of the first few bugged seconds of dynamic black when its inapropriatly bright ? Its not a good image , it has this yellow tint to it horrible. This is said to be attempted fixed in the next FW update. 

3. The shield HDR and mapping issues are still present in C14.3. I Dont know if This applies to all of you but for me the upgrade has reduced the amout of times i have to EDID switch to Get the proper HDR image to 1, which is a huge improvement. I go into the Netflix app play an HDR title with the dim HDR image where no discernable difference is seen when toggeling HDR auto/off in menu of the projector. I switch EDID to 1.4 and quickly back to 2.0 to force another handshake and voila the correct image appears , and subseqently displays correctly onward Even when switching between SDR and HDR content for the rest of the time the projector is powered on. So for me its been reduced to a minor inconvenience, which is a huge improvement from before. 

4. For those of you not being able to power on after update Im Sorry but it sounds like you might have to send it in for repair. The 4 blinking red lights come on during the 30 min FW update and they keep blinking til it is done and turns solid red (as it is when powered off). If you pulled the plug during This process you might have bricked it... remember to follow the instructions carefully and that you have to remove the USB containing the firmware after the first part of system update has completed and the Optoma logo reappears or the process will just loop infinitely.


----------



## RobinsonCrusoe

By the way: The short freezes on AppleTV only appear in iTunes movies. No problem with HDR or playback in Netflix or Prime Video.


----------



## USTGuy

Jasmin87 said:


> Honestly its so much better having only to do it once per viewing now as opposed to 10+ times before the handshake got it right. Atleast its going in the right direction, even though its far from perfect. On my shield after EDID toggeling once it switches fine between SDR and HDR content , but thats just from limited testing today, hopefully ittl get completely fixed soon but its important they are aware that the HDR dimming problem is still very much around.


I tried to do EDID toggling on Netflix 4K HDR but when I do so I get kicked out of Netflix app...what am I doing wrong??

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## oneil50

oneil50 said:


> I agree this is better now, just looking a movie and I found some "problems".
> 
> I'am alone to get white band between movie and cinemascope band ?


Any one ?


----------



## mttjj

oneil50 said:


> oneil50 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I agree this is better now, just looking a movie and I found some "problems".
> 
> I'am alone to get white band between movie and cinemascope band ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any one ?
Click to expand...

Jasmin87 responded 3 posts above you.


----------



## Deniz Akgün

I bought the european version end of last year and yesterday I switched from Apple TV to the fire TV stick 4k. Would anybody be so kind to share display settings inside the fire TV stick menu for a proper setting in combination with the Optoma?

Many thanks in advance


----------



## mbarac

*Hard reset*

The UHZ65UST is dead after 14.3 driver update,

can I do a hard reset ( some combination of power button and something)

anyone knows ?

Thank you,


----------



## Kdub69

mbarac said:


> The UHZ65UST is dead after 14.3 driver update,
> 
> can I do a hard reset ( some combination of power button and something)
> 
> anyone knows ?
> 
> Thank you,



This is everyone worst nightmare hoping there will be a fix/solution for you. Now i’m scared to try and do a update hopefully the one coming later tonight won’t do this


----------



## mttjj

mbarac said:


> The UHZ65UST is dead after 14.3 driver update,
> 
> can I do a hard reset ( some combination of power button and something)
> 
> anyone knows ?
> 
> Thank you,


Just to confirm that you’ve tried unplugging from the wall? Did the upgrade process complete? What steps did you make it through?


----------



## Starbuck23

Ordering my P1 next week, hopefully it ships with new firmware already installed. Is it possible to use a wireless Sub with the P1?


----------



## mbarac

mttjj said:


> Just to confirm that you’ve tried unplugging from the wall? Did the upgrade process complete? What steps did you make it through?


update first part went ok, on shutdown ask me to make driver update and that was all ... 
after 4 hours I asked here what to do, but nothing ... 
still 3 red led bright.

Same thing happened to others (bbyrneozarch) !!


----------



## mttjj

mbarac said:


> update first part went ok, on shutdown ask me to make driver update and that was all ...
> after 4 hours I asked here what to do, but nothing ...
> still 3 red led bright.
> 
> Same thing happened to others !!


Did you remove the USB drive after it rebooted? That’s how it actually does the update. I forgot to do that when I updated a month ago and thought my device was bricked, too.

My suggestion is to cut power to the device. Plug in the USB stick. And then follow the instructions in the upgrade document exactly. Removing the USB drive when it tells you to is a very important step.


----------



## mbarac

mttjj said:


> Did you remove the USB drive after it rebooted? That’s how it actually does the update. I forgot to do that when I updated a month ago and thought my device was bricked, too.
> 
> My suggestion is to cut power to the device. Plug in the USB stick. And then follow the instructions in the upgrade document exactly. Removing the USB drive when it tells you to is a very important step.


yes, usb was not connected !!

now I can't do anything ... won't start, is dead !!


----------



## mark.ai

Loving the 14.3 update so far - big improvement from 12.0 which I was on before! So thanks for the work on it, and posting the update here 

Just going to mention one problem I've been experiencing, which still happens with 14.3: after playing any amount of a UHD film (happens both with Amazon Prime & Netflix) then when I return to the app menus (of Prime/Netflix) or play any SDR film, then all the displayed colors are incredibly saturated and darker.

The only way to restore the normal colors that I have found is to power off the projector, and then back on again. Turning off Dynamic Black (either during the film, or before the whole process with a power off/on before too), before playing the UHD film has no effect - so I suspect it is just playing anything with HDR mode. Powering off & on the Bluray player & receiver makes no difference - I use Prime/Netflix from a Sony UBP-X800M2 via a Sony STR-DN1080 to the projector. 

I can't post links or images yet until I make 5 more posts, so uploaded some hi-res pics to OneDrive (add https and :// at the start of line)
1drv.ms/u/s!ArQ7iSnpSoQ2sscxvkg0cgg0u3HXIQ?e=AUMipN

You can see the UHD film images are the same (before going back to the menus, then back to film), but the Prime menus are clearly different (before playing film and after playing film).

Any suggestions on what this could be, or just a bug? If more info is useful, let me know. Thanks!


----------



## bbyrneozarch

Mbarac

Last night after the three blinking light issue I unplugged everything from the projector and let it sit like this over night. This morning I plugged everything back in and the three blinking lights came back on I let it sit for 10 min and the lights stopped blinking and a single white light came on and now everything works fine. When I originally did the firmware update everything installed correctly except for the driver. I ran the driver update for almost an hour and it was stuck in the three blinking red light mode. I did not unplug anything during this update. Apparently unplugging everything and letting it sit overnight cleared the error mode it was stuck in. The firmware update has fixed most of the issues I had except for getting the projector to read HDR correctly using Apply TV. I still need to toggle between 1.4 and 2.0 to get a bright picture during HDR playback.


----------



## oneil50

mark.ai said:


> Loving the 14.3 update so far - big improvement from 12.0 which I was on before! So thanks for the work on it, and posting the update here
> 
> 
> 
> Just going to mention one problem I've been experiencing, which still happens with 14.3: after playing any amount of a UHD film (happens both with Amazon Prime & Netflix) then when I return to the app menus (of Prime/Netflix) or play any SDR film, then all the displayed colors are incredibly saturated and darker.
> 
> 
> 
> The only way to restore the normal colors that I have found is to power off the projector, and then back on again. Turning off Dynamic Black (either during the film, or before the whole process with a power off/on before too), before playing the UHD film has no effect - so I suspect it is just playing anything with HDR mode. Powering off & on the Bluray player & receiver makes no difference - I use Prime/Netflix from a Sony UBP-X800M2 via a Sony STR-DN1080 to the projector.
> 
> 
> 
> I can't post links or images yet until I make 5 more posts, so uploaded some hi-res pics to OneDrive (add https and :// at the start of line)
> 
> 1drv.ms/u/s!ArQ7iSnpSoQ2sscxvkg0cgg0u3HXIQ?e=AUMipN
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the UHD film images are the same (before going back to the menus, then back to film), but the Prime menus are clearly different (before playing film and after playing film).
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions on what this could be, or just a bug? If more info is useful, let me know. Thanks!


Maybe projector isn't going back to SDR and stay on HDR mode. Mine does it sometimes.
To fix it I play another HDR content and when I stop it 75% time it come back to SDR. If bot do this again.


----------



## rayhk

mark.ai said:


> Loving the 14.3 update so far - big improvement from 12.0 which I was on before! So thanks for the work on it, and posting the update here
> 
> Just going to mention one problem I've been experiencing, which still happens with 14.3: after playing any amount of a UHD film (happens both with Amazon Prime & Netflix) then when I return to the app menus (of Prime/Netflix) or play any SDR film, then all the displayed colors are incredibly saturated and darker.
> 
> The only way to restore the normal colors that I have found is to power off the projector, and then back on again. Turning off Dynamic Black (either during the film, or before the whole process with a power off/on before too), before playing the UHD film has no effect - so I suspect it is just playing anything with HDR mode. Powering off & on the Bluray player & receiver makes no difference - I use Prime/Netflix from a Sony UBP-X800M2 via a Sony STR-DN1080 to the projector.
> 
> I can't post links or images yet until I make 5 more posts, so uploaded some hi-res pics to OneDrive (add https and :// at the start of line)
> 1drv.ms/u/s!ArQ7iSnpSoQ2sscxvkg0cgg0u3HXIQ?e=AUMipN
> 
> You can see the UHD film images are the same (before going back to the menus, then back to film), but the Prime menus are clearly different (before playing film and after playing film).
> 
> Any suggestions on what this could be, or just a bug? If more info is useful, let me know. Thanks!



Did you set the YCbCr of your Sony UBP-X800M2 to 4.4.4? Try to set it to Auto to see if it removes your issue.


----------



## Tenari

rayhk said:


> Did you set the YCbCr of your Sony UBP-X800M2 to 4.4.4? Try to set it to Auto to see if it removes your issue.



For some reason it took me a few times on my Apple TV to get 4:2:0 to stick. For anyone that has a Denon/Marantz, the choice is either “low speed” or “high speed” — with no further resolution 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Mark Sherman

eurovtec said:


> 1)Format your USB to fat32.
> 2)Then copy the fw into the USB.
> 3)With PJ in off mode, plug your usb into the particular USB port(below pic)
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4)power on your pj. The blue screen downloading should appear.
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5) Get ready for the Optoma screen to appear. Once you see that unplug the usb from the pj.
> 
> 
> Spoiler


Really nice of you to recreate the installation instructions here. I have already seen them and re read them 5 times. Still appreciated. Simply does not work on my box. Going to wait for the ota as there seems to be other strange behavior out there and going to hope the ota works. Thank you.


----------



## iiikz

update after about 5 hours with new firmware: apple tv is significantly improved. looks great in all modes i selected, with a variety of content sources. I had one weird glitch in about 4 hours of use, during which the right half of the screen blanked out, but otherwise looked great.

the PS4 pro initially had issues... however, after hours of testing it definitely appears to be cable related. cables which worked prior to update now seem to have problems; but switching to known good cable has resolved the issue.

many thanks for this update - it has definitely improved P1 performance.


----------



## USTGuy

Why not wait for the official OTA fw update and avoid any risks? That's the reason why I remained on C12 fw and be patient.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Thrust-Bot

Light source life says up to 30,000/20,000 hours (eco/normal)

Anyone know how to switch between eco and normal power mode?


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

USTGuy said:


> Why not wait for the official OTA fw update and avoid any risks? That's the reason why I remained on C12 fw and be patient.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


To be fair there was no mention of the USB method having any more risk than the OTA method. Being smug about this certainly doesn’t help the poor guy who’s PJ will not switch on!


----------



## mbarac

bbyrneozarch said:


> Mbarac
> 
> Last night after the three blinking light issue I unplugged everything from the projector and let it sit like this over night. This morning I plugged everything back in and the three blinking lights came back on I let it sit for 10 min and the lights stopped blinking and a single white light came on and now everything works fine. When I originally did the firmware update everything installed correctly except for the driver. I ran the driver update for almost an hour and it was stuck in the three blinking red light mode. I did not unplug anything during this update. Apparently unplugging everything and letting it sit overnight cleared the error mode it was stuck in. The firmware update has fixed most of the issues I had except for getting the projector to read HDR correctly using Apply TV. I still need to toggle between 1.4 and 2.0 to get a bright picture during HDR playback.


Super! I am glad for your succes! 
So If I understood correctly, even if the projector was unplugged, it resumed the driver update 
and completed updating the firmware and now your projector 
is perfectly functional with this 14.3 firmware?!

thanks for your reply!

Update: I have white light blinking on every 26 seconds from 10 hours now ... nothing happened (


----------



## Jasmin87

Im wondering about this as well, only power options ive found in the menu are eco or smart home, which only seems to enable control of the pj via Google/alexa. The different lifetime of the lazer in the specsheet implies a high vs low power mode which would indicate a higher brightness/output in normal mode? Is This not an option on the EU version (UHZ65UST)?



Thrust-Bot said:


> Light source life says up to 30,000/20,000 hours (eco/normal)
> 
> Anyone know how to switch between eco and normal power mode?


----------



## USTGuy

@Jasmin87 
When I try EDID toggling on my Nvidia Shield I get kicked out of Netflix. I go to from 2.0 to 1.4 back to 2.0 real quick as you advice 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Jasmin87

Yeah happens to me too sometimes , but rarely. Usually just throws me back to the Netflix menu , and as long as i resume playback of the HDR title it does the handshake again and This time the correct HDR image appears. This is on C14.3 though , on C12 and C14 this took alot longer time to do, and seemed luck based how long it took to get the correct image.





USTGuy said:


> @Jasmin87
> When I try EDID toggling on my Nvidia Shield I get kicked out of Netflix. I go to from 2.0 to 1.4 back to 2.0 real quick as you advice
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## mark.ai

oneil50 said:


> Maybe projector isn't going back to SDR and stay on HDR mode. Mine does it sometimes.
> To fix it I play another HDR content and when I stop it 75% time it come back to SDR. If bot do this again.





rayhk said:


> Did you set the YCbCr of your Sony UBP-X800M2 to 4.4.4? Try to set it to Auto to see if it removes your issue.


Thanks for the suggestions! Tried a few more things:

Once the colors change after exiting Prime/Netflix HDR content, then if I play & exit a UHD bluray the colors do sort themselves out again.

I set the YCbCr of the Sony-X800M2 to Auto (I had it set to RGB before) and Receiver was already on Auto - but this made no difference unfortunately.


----------



## legnaz

iiikz said:


> anyone else using ps4? i’m seeing weird issues. almost seems like a cable issue, but i’ve never had an issue with cable or ps4 before.
> 
> i’m in game mode and periodically lose sync. blank screen, audio cuts out, and usually get colored static flash before it re-syncs.
> 
> happens every 5-10 minutes or so, sporadically. ive tried multiple cables, as well as disabling things like HDR and deep color in PS4 menus, but nothing seems to prevent them.
> 
> Update: when losing sync, the audio pops and cuts out, then everything goes black. it is jarring. when sync is restored, the image is dim and low contrast. toggling display mode restores a more accurate image.
> 
> Another odd effect: flashing lines on the right half of the screen. look almost like scan lines if some sort.


Same thing happens to me. Even before the update.


----------



## legnaz

Anyone have a link to the 12 firmware? I need to downgrade before i update to 14.3. Thanks.


----------



## mttjj

legnaz said:


> Anyone have a link to the 12 firmware? I need to downgrade before i update to 14.3. Thanks.


I found this by going to the Downloads section of the product page: https://www.optoma.com/us/product/cinemax-p1/ (find “Downloads” near the bottom of the page).

https://www.optoma.com/us/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Firmware_CinemaX-P1.pdf


----------



## eurovtec

@OPTOMA PM DUDE, 
I’m not sure if you are the only product tester for Optoma corp.
Really appreciate your support to P1’s owners. 
Just afraid that you might be overwhelmed with all the questions as it seems that the new fw is not resolving some of the previous issues, and creating new ones.

I got this impression that you are the sole product person who’s doing rigorous testing of the pre-release firmware. 
Not sure if there’s multiple product testing sites around the globe or just you alone doing these tests.
Optoma should have some of the standard source devices such as nvidia shield, Apple TV, windows/linux HTPC, PS4, Xbox and Blu-ray players to stress test the P1 at different countries, playing HDR & SDR videos.

Otherwise, by the time the issues are resolved, there might be already a new product launch.
I believe owners of this projector will assist you if you need help such as we can all write to Optoma HQ to get more help for you.


----------



## legnaz

mttjj said:


> I found this by going to the Downloads section of the product page: https://www.optoma.com/us/product/cinemax-p1/ (find “Downloads” near the bottom of the page).
> 
> https://www.optoma.com/us/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Firmware_CinemaX-P1.pdf


Thanks. Does anyone know if hdmi 1 and hdmi 2 ports are the same? Having issues with hdmi 1.


----------



## eurovtec

legnaz said:


> mttjj said:
> 
> 
> 
> I found this by going to the Downloads section of the product page: https://www.optoma.com/us/product/cinemax-p1/ (find â€œDownloadsâ€ near the bottom of the page).
> 
> https://www.optoma.com/us/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Firmware_CinemaX-P1.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. Does anyone know if hdmi 1 and hdmi 2 ports are the same? Having issues with hdmi 1.
Click to expand...

Hdmi 1 has arc. Hdmi 2 dun.


----------



## mbarac

*update*

After driver update 14.3 shutdown, I have white light blinking on every 26 seconds from 10 hours now ... nothing happened 

Please somebody advise what to do ...

Thanx


----------



## legnaz

Just updated a few hours ago. I gotta say that the colors look way more accurate and bright. I have it on cinema mode. The picture overall looks way better than before. The only problem that still exists is when watching HDR with dynamic black on. Looks perfect when turned on, then dims about 5 seconds later. I wish it would just stay on! Regular HD content looks fantastic though. I know you said the dimming is normal optoma dude, but the difference between turning it on and then dimming is like night and day. Doesnt seem normal to me. If dynamicBlack worked, this projector would be perfect. BTW i went back to firmware 12, then 14.3.


----------



## pinman082

Kev1000000 said:


> Viewsonic BCP 120. I've also messed with the settings a bunch. When I get home, I can post my config.


Can you please post your config/ settings?


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

That is odd -- sorry. 

Is the unit still in the update state (flashing white light)? 

Removed the USB drive after the system update?



mbarac said:


> After driver update 14.3 shutdown, I have white light blinking on every 26 seconds from 10 hours now ... nothing happened /forum/images/smilies/frown.gif
> 
> Please somebody advise what to do ...
> 
> Thanx


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

Why the interest in the old FW? 



eurovtec said:


> legnaz said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mttjj said:
> 
> 
> 
> I found this by going to the Downloads section of the product page: https://www.optoma.com/us/product/cinemax-p1/ (find â€œDownloadsâ€Â near the bottom of the page).
> 
> https://www.optoma.com/us/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Firmware_CinemaX-P1.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. Does anyone know if hdmi 1 and hdmi 2 ports are the same? Having issues with hdmi 1.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hdmi 1 has arc. Hdmi 2 dun.
Click to expand...


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

I am not the only tester. No offense, please do not assume. I am the Product Manager (owner) -- not some product person. 

We have test labs in every region that test including a central SQA lab. 

We also test a variety of test devices - dozens. The only issue I see thus far is the Shield -- I will check this tomorrow. There can NEVER be enough testing due to the VAST number of SCENARIOS and VARIABLES. This is reality! And, source device testing is not the only aspect that needs test. 

For background, before Projectors I was a Test Engineer, ran a Tier 1 OEM Lab, FAE and PM for 12 years now. I am firm believer in being hands on -- most PMs do not possess this mentality or background. 🙂

With that said, are you referring to a specific issue?



eurovtec said:


> @OPTOMA PM DUDE,
> Iâ€™️m not sure if you are the only product tester for Optoma corp.
> Really appreciate your support to P1â€™️s owners.
> Just afraid that you might be overwhelmed with all the questions as it seems that the new fw is not resolving some of the previous issues, and creating new ones.
> 
> I got this impression that you are the sole product person whoâ€™️s doing rigorous testing of the pre-release firmware.
> Not sure if thereâ€™️s multiple product testing sites around the globe or just you alone doing these tests.
> Optoma should have some of the standard source devices such as nvidia shield, Apple TV, windows/linux HTPC, PS4, Xbox and Blu-ray players to stress test the P1 at different countries, playing HDR & SDR videos.
> 
> Otherwise, by the time the issues are resolved, there might be already a new product launch.
> I believe owners of this projector will assist you if you need help such as we can all write to Optoma HQ to get more help for you.


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

Adjust bright mode under image settings. 50% power = ECO. 100% = Bright Mode. 



Jasmin87 said:


> Im wondering about this as well, only power options ive found in the menu are eco or smart home, which only seems to enable control of the pj via Google/alexa. The different lifetime of the lazer in the specsheet implies a high vs low power mode which would indicate a higher brightness/output in normal mode? Is This not an option on the EU version (UHZ65UST)?
> 
> 
> 
> Thrust-Bot said:
> 
> 
> 
> Light source life says up to 30,000/20,000 hours (eco/normal)
> 
> Anyone know how to switch between eco and normal power mode?
Click to expand...


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

There is no risk with USB -- in fact, it is the other way around. Which is why OTA comes after. USB updates runs outside of the OS -- less potential for issues. In fact, when OTA fails -- USB is the solution. 🙂



Ian Mclaughlin said:


> USTGuy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Why not wait for the official OTA fw update and avoid any risks? That's the reason why I remained on C12 fw and be patient.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> To be fair there was no mention of the USB method having any more risk than the OTA method. Being smug about this certainly doesnâ€™️t help the poor guy whoâ€™️s PJ will not switch on!
Click to expand...


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

What build are you on? What is the current system, DDP and MCU?

The MCU and DDP cannot be downgraded by using C12. This is by design. 




legnaz said:


> Anyone have a link to the 12 firmware? I need to downgrade before i update to 14.3. Thanks.


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

Glad to hear. When a cable degrades -- the result can be instability --- random sync and color issues. Easy to take the cable for granted. When testing, I often use high quality cables or new cables very often. 🙂



iiikz said:


> update after about 5 hours with new firmware: apple tv is significantly improved. looks great in all modes i selected, with a variety of content sources. I had one weird glitch in about 4 hours of use, during which the right half of the screen blanked out, but otherwise looked great.
> 
> the PS4 pro initially had issues... however, after hours of testing it definitely appears to be cable related. cables which worked prior to update now seem to have problems; but switching to known good cable has resolved the issue.
> 
> many thanks for this update - it has definitely improved P1 performance.


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

Will check your images. 

First thing -- verified the issue without the Receiver in the chain?



mark.ai said:


> Loving the 14.3 update so far - big improvement from 12.0 which I was on before! So thanks for the work on it, and posting the update here /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> Just going to mention one problem I've been experiencing, which still happens with 14.3: after playing any amount of a UHD film (happens both with Amazon Prime & Netflix) then when I return to the app menus (of Prime/Netflix) or play any SDR film, then all the displayed colors are incredibly saturated and darker.
> 
> The only way to restore the normal colors that I have found is to power off the projector, and then back on again. Turning off Dynamic Black (either during the film, or before the whole process with a power off/on before too), before playing the UHD film has no effect - so I suspect it is just playing anything with HDR mode. Powering off & on the Bluray player & receiver makes no difference - I use Prime/Netflix from a Sony UBP-X800M2 via a Sony STR-DN1080 to the projector.
> 
> I can't post links or images yet until I make 5 more posts, so uploaded some hi-res pics to OneDrive (add https and :// at the start of line)
> 1drv.ms/u/s!ArQ7iSnpSoQ2sscxvkg0cgg0u3HXIQ?e=AUMipN
> 
> You can see the UHD film images are the same (before going back to the menus, then back to film), but the Prime menus are clearly different (before playing film and after playing film).
> 
> Any suggestions on what this could be, or just a bug? If more info is useful, let me know. Thanks!


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

I have the Sony player here at home. The focus is always on disk for Blu-ray players. I will take a look the apps. The dark contrast at the menu (your images) may be the use of a lower resolution with EDID 1.4. This is how the Sony X800 behaved -- no 4K at the media player menu. 



mark.ai said:


> Loving the 14.3 update so far - big improvement from 12.0 which I was on before! So thanks for the work on it, and posting the update here /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> Just going to mention one problem I've been experiencing, which still happens with 14.3: after playing any amount of a UHD film (happens both with Amazon Prime & Netflix) then when I return to the app menus (of Prime/Netflix) or play any SDR film, then all the displayed colors are incredibly saturated and darker.
> 
> The only way to restore the normal colors that I have found is to power off the projector, and then back on again. Turning off Dynamic Black (either during the film, or before the whole process with a power off/on before too), before playing the UHD film has no effect - so I suspect it is just playing anything with HDR mode. Powering off & on the Bluray player & receiver makes no difference - I use Prime/Netflix from a Sony UBP-X800M2 via a Sony STR-DN1080 to the projector.
> 
> I can't post links or images yet until I make 5 more posts, so uploaded some hi-res pics to OneDrive (add https and :// at the start of line)
> 1drv.ms/u/s!ArQ7iSnpSoQ2sscxvkg0cgg0u3HXIQ?e=AUMipN
> 
> You can see the UHD film images are the same (before going back to the menus, then back to film), but the Prime menus are clearly different (before playing film and after playing film).
> 
> Any suggestions on what this could be, or just a bug? If more info is useful, let me know. Thanks!


----------



## OPTOMA PM DUDE

For number 3 -- the bug is listed in the release notes I posted. The issue is not with Dynamic Black -- it is with 100% Power Mode. Will be fixed in next build. 🙂

As mentioned, I will check Shield tomorrow. 



Jasmin87 said:


> Cant do multiquote on mobile so ill just write in bulletpoints;
> 
> 1. The white band between image and cinemascope on shield is not an isolated case with you, I have it aswell and its not an issue introduced in this FW , was present in C12 and C14, and now C14.3 on my UHZ65UST. Never bothered mentioning anything because its barely noticeable, pretty much only visible in dark scenes and if youre looking for it , but i get that it would bother some.
> 
> 2. The dynamic black issue where it appears brighter then 100% is clearly a bug as why would an enhanced contrast setting give a net increase in brightness over a max brightness setting ?! When it dims after a few seconds after toggeling dynamic black on THATS the way its supposed to look. Personally not a fan AS its too noticable a brightness change during scene transitions of whatever you are watching. And honestly have you actually taken the time to look at the image of the first few bugged seconds of dynamic black when its inapropriatly bright ? Its not a good image , it has this yellow tint to it horrible. This is said to be attempted fixed in the next FW update.
> 
> 3. The shield HDR and mapping issues are still present in C14.3. I Dont know if This applies to all of you but for me the upgrade has reduced the amout of times i have to EDID switch to Get the proper HDR image to 1, which is a huge improvement. I go into the Netflix app play an HDR title with the dim HDR image where no discernable difference is seen when toggeling HDR auto/off in menu of the projector. I switch EDID to 1.4 and quickly back to 2.0 to force another handshake and voila the correct image appears , and subseqently displays correctly onward Even when switching between SDR and HDR content for the rest of the time the projector is powered on. So for me its been reduced to a minor inconvenience, which is a huge improvement from before.
> 
> 4. For those of you not being able to power on after update Im Sorry but it sounds like you might have to send it in for repair. The 4 blinking red lights come on during the 30 min FW update and they keep blinking til it is done and turns solid red (as it is when powered off). If you pulled the plug during This process you might have bricked it... remember to follow the instructions carefully and that you have to remove the USB containing the firmware after the first part of system update has completed and the Optoma logo reappears or the process will just loop infinitely.


----------



## Bernd Bröse

Hi Optoma Dude, I have a question, HLG over USB works fine, HLG over HDMI doesn't work.
I previously had a Sony VPL-VW 260es and it worked fine with the same devices


----------



## eurovtec

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Why the interest in the old FW?


I Guess some owners upgrade from C12 to C14(AP website) 
So they are downgrading to C12 and then upgrade to your C14.3, to prevent any hiccups.



OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> I am not the only tester. No offense, please do not assume. I am the Product Manager (owner) -- not some product person.
> 
> We have test labs in every region that test including a central SQA lab.
> 
> We also test a variety of test devices - dozens. The only issue I see thus far is the Shield -- I will check this tomorrow. There can NEVER be enough testing due to the VAST number of SCENARIOS and VARIABLES. This is reality! And, source device testing is not the only aspect that needs test.
> 
> For background, before Projectors I was a Test Engineer, ran a Tier 1 OEM Lab, FAE and PM for 12 years now. I am firm believer in being hands on -- most PMs do not possess this mentality or background. 🙂
> 
> With that said, are you referring to a specific issue?


I haven’t upgrade my FW as I’m in AP region. It’s not released yet.
I’m using a HTPC windows 10 & hope that AP region will be as efficient as USA region. 
Probably they need to duplicate another u. That’s a compliment. 

I read about the feedback of owners who had upgraded the fw and it’s not clear if the dynamic black is resolved.
I would say that many owners want that punchy pic when the dynamic black is toggled. 
And it seems like latest fw 14.3, the pic will still be dimmed after a while. 
So I’m not sure if you observe this phenomenon and able to address this by making it stay punchy.
For movie Ironman 3, somehow this movie will give you a constant punchy pic & then turn dimmed effect when you toggle the dynamic black. Thus this movie might be easier for you to do troubleshooting.


----------



## USTGuy

For those of you using Nvidia Shield TV and UHD players, when I try EDID switch to fix HDR I get kicked out of the movie. It doesn't matter whether it's Netflix on Shield TV or UHD disc on UHD player.
How in the world are you able to toggle EDID 1.4/2.0 without getting booted out of the movie?

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## RobinsonCrusoe

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> For number 3 -- the bug is listed in the release notes I posted. The issue is not with Dynamic Black -- it is with 100% Power Mode. Will be fixed in next build. 🙂
> As mentioned, I will check Shield tomorrow.


Please don’t forget the AppleTV4k. Number 3 reads just like the AppleTV bug i mentioned apart from the short freezes. Or does the next built cover this, too?


----------



## Thrust-Bot

eurovtec said:


> I Guess some owners upgrade from C12 to C14(AP website)
> So they are downgrading to C12 and then upgrade to your C14.3, to prevent any hiccups.
> 
> 
> I read about the feedback of owners who had upgraded the fw and it’s not clear if the dynamic black is resolved.
> I would say that many owners want that punchy pic when the dynamic black is toggled.


Dynamic Black is not fixed on my end. Works when turned on for a few seconds then shuts off and dims the picture. Im using an Apple 4k box also.


----------



## mttjj

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Why the interest in the old FW?
> 
> 
> 
> eurovtec said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> legnaz said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mttjj said:
> 
> 
> 
> I found this by going to the Downloads section of the product page: https://www.optoma.com/us/product/cinemax-p1/ (find â€œDownloadsâ€ÂÂ near the bottom of the page).
> 
> https://www.optoma.com/us/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Firmware_CinemaX-P1.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. Does anyone know if hdmi 1 and hdmi 2 ports are the same? Having issues with hdmi 1.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hdmi 1 has arc. Hdmi 2 dun.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Someone just asked if there was a link to it and I provided it. I don’t personally have any interest in it.


----------



## RobinsonCrusoe

Dynamic black works just fine for me. I don‘t know if everyone is expecting the picture to be brighter when using dynamic black. But the whole purpose of dynamic black is to achieve better blacks/contrast and therefore the picture has to be darkened. You see the shifting when a scene changes and DB adapts to the picture. I guess thats what everyboby is seeing after a few seconds when activating DB. It takes a few seconds to set in. Why not use 100% if DB is too dark?


----------



## mbarac

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> That is odd -- sorry.
> 
> Is the unit still in the update state (flashing white light)?
> 
> Removed the USB drive after the system update?


hi dude,

yes, I removed the usb stick and arrived at system home page.

on first shutdown pj asked to do driver update and I agreed.

after that white light 17 hours now ...

before was C12.

Thank,


----------



## eurovtec

AP region auto system update rolled out today.



Spoiler

















Spoiler















played ironman3.
It seems like the “veil” is gone.
The picture is clearer.

However, toggling dynamic black 1 to 2 to 3 and vice versa, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t.
Toggling dynamic black 1 to 100% and back to dynamic 1 OR dynamic 3 to 50% and back to dynamic 3, the picture is punchy but will not maintain that way.
Hope Optoma is able to have a setting that can maintain the pic in that punchy manner in the next FW.


----------



## USTGuy

I don't think DB was meant to be that punchy but to adjust black levels depending on the scene

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## karmitte

Hi,

Has anyone got a problem with the SmartFIT app ? The OTA update has erased my screen positioning tuning, and now, Smartapp is connected to the projector and impossible to save setting, so my picture is not aligned with my screen ...

Is it possible to adjust the picture without the smartFIT app ?

Thanks a lot.


----------



## mttjj

@OPTOMA PM DUDE I just updated to the 14.3 firmware (was waiting for the OTA). I ran my test again using the film “1917” and ”The LEGO Movie” and I’m still experiencing the frame drops/stutters that I and @RobinsonCrusoe have discussed previously. PLEASE let me know what more info you need from me. I want to get this issue solved. To be clear, I’m watching the 4K versions of both of these movies from iTunes. HDMI port 2 with a brand new high-speed cable. AppleTV 4K. 4K HDR, 4:2:2 chroma, match HDR and frame rate.

As stated before, changing the EDID setting to 1.4 and then back to 2.0 while in the movie fixes these stutters so it appears to be a handshake issue.

If you need me to upload short video clips demonstrating the issue I can do that as well.


----------



## kalle4242

FYI: Europe/Germany Update is available, too - just started downloading.


----------



## LBThree

Just upgraded mine OTA with no hiccups during installation...upon upgrade it seems my picture settings were retained but my geometric correction was reset. Typically an easy problem to fix but unfortunately this update bugged the menu feature! Literally cannot access the menu function that's located at the top right of the remote control and also on the far left of the P1's home page splash screen. Pressing the button now does not bring up the menu that allows you to adjust all of the picture settings...needless to say this is very frustrating and needs to be hot-fixed because the update is practically useless without the functionality to change settings. Just to be clear this is not just on the remote, the menu is inaccessible even through the button on the far left of the main P1 dashboard.

Be advised --- you may want to wait before upgrading OTA.


----------



## mttjj

LBThree said:


> Just upgraded mine OTA with no hiccups during installation...upon upgrade it seems my picture settings were retained but my geometric correction was reset. Typically an easy problem to fix but unfortunately this update bugged the menu feature! Literally cannot access the menu function that's located at the top right of the remote control and also on the far left of the P1's home page splash screen. Pressing the button now does not bring up the menu that allows you to adjust all of the picture settings...needless to say this is very frustrating and needs to be hot-fixed because the update is practically useless without the functionality to change settings. Just to be clear this is not just on the remote, the menu is inaccessible even through the button on the far left of the main P1 dashboard.
> 
> Be advised --- you may want to wait before upgrading OTA.


I haven’t had any issues with the menu after updating via OTA this morning. Have you tried restarting the device a few times?


----------



## LBThree

mttjj said:


> I haven’t had any issues with the menu after updating via OTA this morning. Have you tried restarting the device a few times?


Yes I've restarted several times, unplugged, etc. It's a software issue because the unit recognizes that I'm pressing the button. I know this because if I toggle the input device overlay that displays the small box at top left of the screen with resolution / frame rate and THEN press the picture menu button, the resolution / frame rate box at the top left immediately disappears. So it's trying to display the picture menu but there's something in the software that isn't allowing it.


----------



## karmitte

I have no problem with the menu, but impossible to correct the geometric with smartFIT app


----------



## Christian Spiga

I update OTA without problems.
Now I have the last firmware 14.3
But MCU is C09 e DDP 15.
Why I still have the old versions?


----------



## USTGuy

Any of you guys know what music is being played during the 30 mins update? It's awesome!

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

karmitte said:


> I have no problem with the menu, but impossible to correct the geometric with smartFIT app


Same happened to me (in that the OTA update wiped off my smartFIT settings)..at first the smartFIT app didn’t work but then I turned off the projector where it forced me to do the driver update. Once that was completed thankfully the smartFIT app worked so I redid the geometric correction and it’s been fine since.


----------



## rsk5

LBThree said:


> Yes I've restarted several times, unplugged, etc. It's a software issue because the unit recognizes that I'm pressing the button. I know this because if I toggle the input device overlay that displays the small box at top left of the screen with resolution / frame rate and THEN press the picture menu button, the resolution / frame rate box at the top left immediately disappears. So it's trying to display the picture menu but there's something in the software that isn't allowing it.


I had the same bug, but after a reset to the default value. It's all good. before resetting, try to pair the remote control. press the back button and the home button at the same time for a few seconds. if it doesn't work, try to reset to the default value.


----------



## Seven7hNight

Heyo, thanks a lot for all you do.

I'm having an issue with the PS4 (not Pro), Nintendo Switch and I suppose anything that I run with Game Mode after the most recent update. When I turn it on Game Mode, it does this strange effect every 5 minutes or so where the screen blacks out and it also gains this green hue. Every time it blacks out, it does so for at least 5-10 seconds and when it comes back a side of the screen is completely glitchy looking and the colors just look strange. This didn't happen before the update when I would just turn off Warp Control and set the Display mode to Game, so I'm guessing it's something related to the new Game Mode feature.

I confirmed it isn't the cables because I ran to my nearest big box retailer this morning and picked up a new one and picked up a new one and it didn't make any difference, still has the same issue.

Any help would be greatly appreciated and thank you for your awesome work1


----------



## Kdub69

For me I updated yeaterday via ota everything works great including the game mode however I do now get a small white line on the bottom and top of the screen. This was posted by someone else earlier any fixes to this? Will there be another fix/update coming to address the issues that people are having? Will there be hot fixes? I’m using firestick via a denon receiver. Thanks!


----------



## Kdub69

Also optoma dude said there was a reddit section for optoma p1 can someone link it since there could be some news and info im missing?


----------



## eurovtec

Kdub69 said:


> Also optoma dude said there was a reddit section for optoma p1 can someone link it since there could be some news and info im missing?


I think it should be this link.

OPTOMA_PM_DUDE (u/OPTOMA_PM_DUDE) - Reddit


----------



## LBThree

rsk5 said:


> I had the same bug, but after a reset to the default value. It's all good. before resetting, try to pair the remote control. press the back button and the home button at the same time for a few seconds. if it doesn't work, try to reset to the default value.


Working after a full Default reset. Unfortunate, but glad everything is operational now.


----------



## USTGuy

New update fixed all issues for me. Best of all, the projector goes back to my preferred SDR mode once I stop playing a 4K HDR title 









Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

See, I knew the shield pro 2019 was an Nvidia money grab. Same chip, although they claims it's 25% faster, it's not. Almost all the same hardware outside the remote. They may have change the HDMI output from HDMI 2.0 A to HDMI 2.0 B but that's it. No HDR for YouTube as they chip can't do VC9 version 2 or whatever proprietary codec Google uses that the shield doesn't support on a hardware level. 

Right now I've got mine on the default settings. HDR works fine but everything is at 60hz. I've also noticed that changing HDR picture settings has almost zero effect when playing 24hz at 60hz on my shield. Bright and detailed look almost exactly the same. I haven't tested it yet but I know this was not the case for actual Blu-ray 4K discs. I will try that later. 

Outside of that everything's been working great for me. I only got the update last night but it seems like the HDMI handshakes and dropouts were almost gone. When switching from HDR back to SDR content it goes back to the correct picture mode, which was just a slight annoyance. I have not tested the dedicated gaming mode yet though. 

It seems like HDR in general is a mess and difficult to implement, regardless of the display. Starting to wonder if I should have gone with a mini htpc instead of the shield but to late for that. The switch from SDR to HDR is much faster now. 

Oh, I also noticed in my Harmony config file for homeassistant has a dedicated on and off commands that have been added as I know these used to not exist. This is greatly appreciated as having to hit the power on button twice to shut off the P1 could cause issues due to the odd IR placement so PJ wouldn't always **** off. Below are the current commands, some of those I initially created myself because it didn't work with Harmony hub out of the box when it first came out so I taught the hub. I now use Power to turn on and Off to turn off in my activity. Haven't had a single issue since. 

"Optoma CinemaX-P1": {
"commands": [
"PowerOff",
"PowerOn",
"Volume down",
"Volume up",
"DirectionDown",
"DirectionLeft",
"DirectionRight",
"DirectionUp",
"Select",
"Menu",
"Back",
"16:9",
"4:3",
"Advanced",
"Brightness",
"CMS",
"Contrast",
"DB",
"Gamma",
"Home",
"InputHdmi1",
"InputHdmi2",
"InputVga",
"InputVideo",
"InputYPbPr",
"LampMode",
"LetterBox",
"Mode",
"Native",
"Off",
"Power",
"PureEngine",
"Resync",
"SBSMode",
"SideMenu"
],

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

diggumsmax said:


> See, I knew the shield pro 2019 was an Nvidia money grab. Same chip, although they claims it's 25% faster, it's not. Almost all the same hardware outside the remote. They may have change the HDMI output from HDMI 2.0 A to HDMI 2.0 B but that's it. No HDR for YouTube as they chip can't do VC9 version 2 or whatever proprietary codec Google uses that the shield doesn't support on a hardware level.
> 
> Right now I've got mine on the default settings. HDR works fine but everything is at 60hz. I've also noticed that changing HDR picture settings has almost zero effect when playing 24hz at 60hz on my shield. Bright and detailed look almost exactly the same. I haven't tested it yet but I know this was not the case for actual Blu-ray 4K discs. I will try that later.
> 
> Outside of that everything's been working great for me. I only got the update last night but it seems like the HDMI handshakes and dropouts were almost gone. When switching from HDR back to SDR content it goes back to the correct picture mode, which was just a slight annoyance. I have not tested the dedicated gaming mode yet though.
> 
> It seems like HDR in general is a mess and difficult to implement, regardless of the display. Starting to wonder if I should have gone with a mini htpc instead of the shield but to late for that.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


I own both the 2017 and 2019 Nvidia Shield Pro. I also have a LG UHD player but I haven't tested UHD discs on this Optoma P1 yet. 
On Shield switching from HDR standard to film to detail don't do much, sure. But what matters to me is that the colors are fairly accurate, shadow details not too dark, and bright highlights not too blown out.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

If the screen you see is 100", what size would you estimate the image in it be roughly?









Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Casey_Bryson

oneil50 said:


> I agree this is better now, just looking a movie and I found some "problems".
> I'am alone to get white band between movie and cinemascope band ?
> 
> 
> When I was watching my movie, I appear 6-7 times in 90 minutes white point coming from a side and in a sec cross all screen very very fast. I was in 10BIT and 4.2.0. Dunno why never had this before.
> 
> I just change for 12Bit and 4.2.2 on shield TV, this is the only way to have correct tone mapping with HDR and SDR. When it was 10BIT and 4.2.0, I couldn't tick rec709 matching rec 2020 setting because It cannot mapping HDR . Then SDR was really dull.


You can get this as a defect/artifact from over sharpening the image since the edge of the image is being sharpened. Is this the case here? The image looks over processed to me.


----------



## diggumsmax

USTGuy said:


> I own both the 2017 and 2019 Nvidia Shield Pro. I also have a LG UHD player but I haven't tested UHD discs on this Optoma P1 yet.
> On Shield switching from HDR standard to film to detail don't do much, sure. But what matters to me is that the colors are fairly accurate, shadow details not too dark, and bright highlights not too blown out.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Your probably right. Even though it doesn't do HDR right per other people posting in this thread it's still the best media streaming box out there, especially if you want high bitrate 4K HDR with Kodi. I still have no idea won't play some 4K material except that possible audio conversion makes it transcode. The P1, up to the latest firmware update, was picky about HDMI handshakes, especially with HDR content. I probably would of been researching the right mini htpc to get for months to make sure it would fit my needs. Only thing on the horizon that seems close is Google's new Chromecast which MIGHT have full blown Android TV with a remote. Doubt it will be as powerful because I'm sure it will be in the sub 100 range but you know it will do HDR for YouTube. I do wish Kodi was better about finding name files for TV shows. Movies scanned fine but 90 percent of tv went into some weird tv am directory if I mount a network drive or plug in a USB drive with 1981 dates. And some possible to tell what is what

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## eurovtec

diggumsmax said:


> See, I knew the shield pro 2019 was an Nvidia money grab. Same chip, although they claims it's 25% faster, it's not. Almost all the same hardware outside the remote. They may have change the HDMI output from HDMI 2.0 A to HDMI 2.0 B but that's it. No HDR for YouTube as they chip can't do VC9 version 2 or whatever proprietary codec Google uses that the shield doesn't support on a hardware level.
> 
> Right now I've got mine on the default settings. HDR works fine but everything is at 60hz. I've also noticed that changing HDR picture settings has almost zero effect when playing 24hz at 60hz on my shield. Bright and detailed look almost exactly the same. I haven't tested it yet but I know this was not the case for actual Blu-ray 4K discs. I will try that later.
> 
> Outside of that everything's been working great for me. I only got the update last night but it seems like the HDMI handshakes and dropouts were almost gone. When switching from HDR back to SDR content it goes back to the correct picture mode, which was just a slight annoyance. I have not tested the dedicated gaming mode yet though.
> 
> It seems like HDR in general is a mess and difficult to implement, regardless of the display. Starting to wonder if I should have gone with a mini htpc instead of the shield but to late for that. The switch from SDR to HDR is much faster now.
> 
> Oh, I also noticed in my Harmony config file for homeassistant has a dedicated on and off commands that have been added as I know these used to not exist. This is greatly appreciated as having to hit the power on button twice to shut off the P1 could cause issues due to the odd IR placement so PJ wouldn't always **** off. Below are the current commands, some of those I initially created myself because it didn't work with Harmony hub out of the box when it first came out so I taught the hub. I now use Power to turn on and Off to turn off in my activity. Haven't had a single issue since.
> 
> "Optoma CinemaX-P1": {
> "commands": [
> "PowerOff",
> "PowerOn",
> "Volume down",
> "Volume up",
> "DirectionDown",
> "DirectionLeft",
> "DirectionRight",
> "DirectionUp",
> "Select",
> "Menu",
> "Back",
> "16:9",
> "4:3",
> "Advanced",
> "Brightness",
> "CMS",
> "Contrast",
> "DB",
> "Gamma",
> "Home",
> "InputHdmi1",
> "InputHdmi2",
> "InputVga",
> "InputVideo",
> "InputYPbPr",
> "LampMode",
> "LetterBox",
> "Mode",
> "Native",
> "Off",
> "Power",
> "PureEngine",
> "Resync",
> "SBSMode",
> "SideMenu"
> ],
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Hi. If u using kodi on shield, i believe there should be an option in system, player setting, the auto adjust refresh rate change it to “start/stop”. 
I’m using Kodi for windows. If this auto adjust refresh rate is set to off, all your videos will be in 60Hz. 
However, the recommended setting Is “start/stop”. 
See if it helps.


----------



## diggumsmax

eurovtec said:


> Hi. If u using kodi on shield, i believe there should be an option in system, player setting, the auto adjust refresh rate change it to “start/stop”.
> I’m using Kodi for windows. If this auto adjust refresh rate is set to off, all your videos will be in 60Hz.
> However, the recommended setting Is “start/stop”.
> See if it helps.


Thanks, that did it! New problem, I get no audio passthrough at 24hz using the audio extractor I purchased. Works great at 60hz, Dolby true HD, DTS MA, DD+. Nothing at 24hz. While not an issue with the P1 at all, it always feels like I hit a wall somewhere. I have an older non-vorque receiver with no arc ports, and I'm only interested in eARC, which the P1 doesn't have which is fine. I knew that going in. 

for the longest time I've had it plugged into HDMI 1 which I know is the arc port so I'll switch to HDMI 2 and see if that makes a difference but the extractor sends a HDMI 2 0 video signal to my P1 while the second output is an HDMI 1 4 720p static image with audio only. I don't think switching inputs will make a difference but we will see. I'm also going to reboot everything.









Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Kev1000000

@OPTOMA PM DUDE 14.3 doesn't seem to have the smart home fixes added to this FW as you mentioned in the past. What happened to those? i.e. it does not respond well to IFTTT commands at all =(


----------



## Tenari

Kev1000000 said:


> @OPTOMA PM DUDE 14.3 doesn't seem to have the smart home fixes added to this FW as you mentioned in the past. What happened to those? i.e. it does not respond well to IFTTT commands at all =(


I noticed this as well and sent him a PM on Reddit. I have ifttt connected through control4 so I can turn my system off and on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## eurovtec

diggumsmax said:


> Thanks, that did it! New problem, I get no audio passthrough at 24hz using the audio extractor I purchased. Works great at 60hz, Dolby true HD, DTS MA, DD+. Nothing at 24hz. While not an issue with the P1 at all, it always feels like I hit a wall somewhere. I have an older non-vorque receiver with no arc ports, and I'm only interested in eARC, which the P1 doesn't have which is fine. I knew that going in.
> 
> for the longest time I've had it plugged into HDMI 1 which I know is the arc port so I'll switch to HDMI 2 and see if that makes a difference but the extractor sends a HDMI 2 0 video signal to my P1 while the second output is an HDMI 1 4 720p static image with audio only. I don't think switching inputs will make a difference but we will see. I'm also going to reboot everything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Under Kodi system setting setting, have you changed the view to “Expert”(bottom left corner)
It will bring up more settings.
Thus in the system setting, navigate to audio setting.
There should be an audio passthrough that needs to be enabled.
Then there’s all the DTS audio TrueHD option that you can enable.
Not sure if you have already done these.


----------



## diggumsmax

eurovtec said:


> Under Kodi system setting setting, have you changed the view to “Expert”(bottom left corner)
> It will bring up more settings.
> Thus in the system setting, navigate to audio setting.
> There should be an audio passthrough that needs to be enabled.
> Then there’s all the DTS audio TrueHD option that you can enable.
> Not sure if you have already done these.


I'll take a look but I already had all that set up. Like I said it worked fine under 60 hz. Unless Cody stores a different profile for 24 hz. Doesn't hurt to double check though.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Kdub69

Kdub69 said:


> For me I updated yeaterday via ota everything works great including the game mode however I do now get a small white line on the bottom and top of the screen. This was posted by someone else earlier any fixes to this? Will there be another fix/update coming to address the issues that people are having? Will there be hot fixes? I’m using firestick via a denon receiver. Thanks!


Fixed sharpness to bright! Thanks to however mentioned this!!!


----------



## Kdub69

diggumsmax said:


> Your probably right. Even though it doesn't do HDR right per other people posting in this thread it's still the best media streaming box out there, especially if you want high bitrate 4K HDR with Kodi. I still have no idea won't play some 4K material except that possible audio conversion makes it transcode. The P1, up to the latest firmware update, was picky about HDMI handshakes, especially with HDR content. I probably would of been researching the right mini htpc to get for months to make sure it would fit my needs. Only thing on the horizon that seems close is Google's new Chromecast which MIGHT have full blown Android TV with a remote. Doubt it will be as powerful because I'm sure it will be in the sub 100 range but you know it will do HDR for YouTube. I do wish Kodi was better about finding name files for TV shows. Movies scanned fine but 90 percent of tv went into some weird tv am directory if I mount a network drive or plug in a USB drive with 1981 dates. And some possible to tell what is what
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


The nvida shield doesn’t do hdr correct? Right now using firetv stick 4k anything thats better out there right now that does hdr right and kodi?


----------



## USTGuy

diggumsmax said:


> Your probably right. Even though it doesn't do HDR right per other people posting in this thread it's still the best media streaming box out there, especially if you want high bitrate 4K HDR with Kodi. I still have no idea won't play some 4K material except that possible audio conversion makes it transcode. The P1, up to the latest firmware update, was picky about HDMI handshakes, especially with HDR content. I probably would of been researching the right mini htpc to get for months to make sure it would fit my needs. Only thing on the horizon that seems close is Google's new Chromecast which MIGHT have full blown Android TV with a remote. Doubt it will be as powerful because I'm sure it will be in the sub 100 range but you know it will do HDR for YouTube. I do wish Kodi was better about finding name files for TV shows. Movies scanned fine but 90 percent of tv went into some weird tv am directory if I mount a network drive or plug in a USB drive with 1981 dates. And some possible to tell what is what
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


I use Plex with both of my Shield TV Pros, not Kodi. Plex works great with 4K HDR + Dolby Atmos and title name search is a breeze

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Christian Spiga

Game Mode is impossible to use.
When i turn ON the image of my Xbox One X become completed pushed to the Green, and also part of the upper image disappear and down i had more space, like the image is moved up.

HDR problems with Firestick 4k and Netflix.
When the HDR option is set to "Adaptive" on the Firestick, the projector don't go in HDR mode when looking HDR contents on Netflix, before the update was working.
Youtube still don't work, only chance is to set forced HDR but than all the other video will become oversaturated if are not HDR contents.

Infowall finally work, before was impossible to use.


----------



## Fedder

Update went without a hitch for me and then...... game mode is pretty much green.... thats about it. Seems less laggy which is great but game is it green. And it keeps cutting out to a black screen every few minutes. So uh some more bugs to fix and I guess ill just have to game at 100+ ms for now.


----------



## diggumsmax

Kdub69 said:


> The nvida shield doesn’t do hdr correct? Right now using firetv stick 4k anything thats better out there right now that does hdr right and kodi?


I guess it's really just based off of one post from optimum PM dude earlier in the post. It seems like every hardware manufacturer is doing HDR differently and leaving it up to the display manufacturers to make it all work. I imagine that's a difficult task to do for my software perspective on Optima's side. I believe this was posted at the end of July so it was before the latest firmware update. 





1. Got a report from Reddit as well. I will investigate Shield on Monday (need to pick up from office). Shield is really not the best player. In the very beginning, it did nothing right including incorrect HDR metadata. We seem to always be chasing Shield issues. 

2. REMEMBER, HDR is a tuned display mode. The brightness WILL drop 40% or so compared to 100% power (with Dynamic Black on or off) -- this is normal. Color accuracy will always comes at the expense of Brightness. Balancing color accuracy and brightness is the biggest challenge. This is why there are no consumer 4K projectors with high brightness (4000 or 5000 lumens) and high color accuracy. HDR mode will NEVER be as bright as 100% power in non-HDR mode or SDR mode. 

If you want BRIGHT. I suggest 100% power and HDR Picture mode set to "Bright". 

Also, Dynamic Black Mimicks an IRIS. The brightness and contrast will dynamically change based on Brightness and Contrast Level of the content. 

Please provide a picture in a "light controlled environment" (lights off) -- unless you are using an ALR Screen. If possible, capture in 4K or higher. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

USTGuy said:


> I use Plex with both of my Shield TV Pros, not Kodi. Plex works great with 4K HDR + Dolby Atmos and title name search is a breeze
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Currently I have Plex running on a top-of-the-line PC that was built 7 years ago, lol. Might be worth moving to the shield. some 4K materials simply wouldn't play and there was some sort of transcoding going on even though I had toggled every option to only do direct play on my local network. If I make the shield my plex server and I've got a USB drive plugged into it with my media it should actually play with no issues. 

Kodi is a great media player but The default library scanner isn't very good. I'm sure there's some plug-in or something that works way better. Cody just requires more research than flex which is pretty much plug-and-play outside a few settings like hardware transcoding. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## eedwards86

Does anyone know what HDMI EQ setting does and what the numbers mean? These settings exist under HDMI settings (Next to HDMI EDID settings).

I ask because I've had a lot of HDMI issues since upgrading the firmware. I can barely sit through a movie without video drop outs, static/noise every few minutes. It appears to be signal strength or something related to HDMI. I've replaced HDMI cables and the issue persists. I did have to run about 30ft of HDMI cable so it's possible degradation at that length but when I was using C12 firmware, I had zero issues. Now I've noticed this HDMI EQ setting exists and when I play with the settings it does actually start to resolve some of the problems but I don't have it dialed in correctly yet.

At this point I don't see any documentation or information that explains what it does or what each number in the setting does.

Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## cincylion

eedwards86 said:


> Does anyone know what HDMI EQ setting does and what the numbers mean? These settings exist under HDMI settings (Next to HDMI EDID settings).
> 
> I ask because I've had a lot of HDMI issues since upgrading the firmware. I can barely sit through a movie without video drop outs, static/noise every few minutes. It appears to be signal strength or something related to HDMI. I've replaced HDMI cables and the issue persists. I did have to run about 30ft of HDMI cable so it's possible degradation at that length but when I was using C12 firmware, I had zero issues. Now I've noticed this HDMI EQ setting exists and when I play with the settings it does actually start to resolve some of the problems but I don't have it dialed in correctly yet.
> 
> At this point I don't see any documentation or information that explains what it does or what each number in the setting does.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.


From Optoma (but from a different projector)

HDMI EQ analyses the signal data and eliminates distortion 
due to signal loss when using long HDMI cables. 
The HDMI receiver also includes a timing adjustment circuit 
that removes timing jitter, restoring the HDMI signal to 
optimal transmission levels. Increasing HDMI will result in a 
more aggressive adjustments to timing to improve signal 
quality when using long cables.


----------



## diggumsmax

cincylion said:


> From Optoma (but from a different projector)
> 
> HDMI EQ analyses the signal data and eliminates distortion
> due to signal loss when using long HDMI cables.
> The HDMI receiver also includes a timing adjustment circuit
> that removes timing jitter, restoring the HDMI signal to
> optimal transmission levels. Increasing HDMI will result in a
> more aggressive adjustments to timing to improve signal
> quality when using long cables.


Agreed, especially with 4K HDR. Anything longer than 25 to 30 ft and I would be looking at a fiberl HDMI cable. Not cheap, but no signale loss over long runs. Digital is digital so it either gets there or it doesn't really does not apply anymore. To many issues with different HDR implements from a source device perspective. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## eurovtec

diggumsmax said:


> Currently I have Plex running on a top-of-the-line PC that was built 7 years ago, lol. Might be worth moving to the shield. some 4K materials simply wouldn't play and there was some sort of transcoding going on even though I had toggled every option to only do direct play on my local network. If I make the shield my plex server and I've got a USB drive plugged into it with my media it should actually play with no issues.
> 
> Kodi is a great media player but The default library scanner isn't very good. I'm sure there's some plug-in or something that works way better. Cody just requires more research than flex which is pretty much plug-and-play outside a few settings like hardware transcoding.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


dun use the default The MovieDB scraper. Download “The Universal Movie scraper. “


----------



## eedwards86

diggumsmax said:


> Agreed, especially with 4K HDR. Anything longer than 25 to 30 ft and I would be looking at a fiberl HDMI cable. Not cheap, but no signale loss over long runs. Digital is digital so it either gets there or it doesn't really does not apply anymore. To many issues with different HDR implements from a source device perspective.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Do you think this is related to firmware update or the cable? I did some testing today and I learned the following:


When I swap out Projector for TV there are no issues; everything plays back fine despite the 35ft HDMI length
Never had these issues when on C12. Issues only started when upgraded to C14.3
HDMI ports on Receiver and Projector look to be fine. I hooked up a firestick to HDMI port on Projector and everything played back fine

Do you all thinks it's worth replacing the HDMI cable to a Fibre cable anyhow?


----------



## diggumsmax

eedwards86 said:


> Do you think this is related to firmware update or the cable? I did some testing today and I learned the following:
> 
> 
> When I swap out Projector for TV there are no issues; everything plays back fine despite the 35ft HDMI length
> Never had these issues when on C12. Issues only started when upgraded to C14.3
> HDMI ports on Receiver and Projector look to be fine. I hooked up a firestick to HDMI port on Projector and everything played back fine
> 
> Do you all thinks it's worth replacing the HDMI cable to a Fibre cable anyhow?


I think I misread the issue. If it workedfine at C12 with that cable and you got 4K HDR then there is no reason a firmware update would cause issues with a working cable. 

Just to be clear, at C12 you had zero issues with 4K HDR? I mean I understand the occasional dropout and sync issue but for the most part it was steady, correct? If so it's not the cable imo. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## eedwards86

diggumsmax said:


> I think I misread the issue. If it workedfine at C12 with that cable and you got 4K HDR then there is no reason a firmware update would cause issues with a working cable.
> 
> Just to be clear, at C12 you had zero issues with 4K HDR? I mean I understand the occasional dropout and sync issue but for the most part it was steady, correct? If so it's not the cable imo.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Correct, I had no issues with 4k HDR when I was on C12, this started happening after the firmware update and it's constant. The video drops out or shows "snow" and what looks like digital noise every 10-15 minutes. It easily happens 4-5 times during the duration of a movie so it's basically unwatchable. I've tried this on HDMI 1 and 2 and same issues. It also happens whether i'm using my Blu Ray Player or Nvidia Shield. I'm going bypass my receiver and go direct from the projector to the Nvidia to see if it does the same thing.

Maybe it is the cable and it's now coincidence but it's driving me nuts and I don't believe there is a way to downgrade to C12 right?


----------



## kalle4242

Kev1000000 said:


> @OPTOMA PM DUDE 14.3 doesn't seem to have the smart home fixes added to this FW as you mentioned in the past. What happened to those? i.e. it does not respond well to IFTTT commands at all =(


Same problem here - it seems like the device ID for the Optoma in the IFTTT button widget is gone


----------



## iiikz

eedwards86 said:


> Correct, I had no issues with 4k HDR when I was on C12, this started happening after the firmware update and it's constant. The video drops out or shows "snow" and what looks like digital noise every 10-15 minutes. It easily happens 4-5 times during the duration of a movie so it's basically unwatchable. I've tried this on HDMI 1 and 2 and same issues. It also happens whether i'm using my Blu Ray Player or Nvidia Shield. I'm going bypass my receiver and go direct from the projector to the Nvidia to see if it does the same thing.
> 
> Maybe it is the cable and it's now coincidence but it's driving me nuts and I don't believe there is a way to downgrade to C12 right?


For what it’s worth, I was seeing exactly the same issues on PS4 With game mode enabled: multicolored static, audio pop, followed by black screen and resync. Every 10-20 minutes. NEVER happened prior, and doesn’t happen with my 4K tv. I know you’re dealing with longer runs, but in my case it happened with just a 2m cable.

Oddly, though, Apple TV was fine, so I switched cables... and it seems to have mostly resolved the issue. I’ve had a couple of minor glitches since getting new cable, but nothing like before.

The cable(s) in question - I tried a couple before using the one from my Apple TV - work fine with same ps4 and my 4K tv, and one of them I used with P1 before update; but i have issues with both after the update. I can’t explain it. My only guess is that after the update, maybe the P1 signals a higher bandwidth connection to ps4 than the cable can handle?


----------



## diggumsmax

eedwards86 said:


> Correct, I had no issues with 4k HDR when I was on C12, this started happening after the firmware update and it's constant. The video drops out or shows "snow" and what looks like digital noise every 10-15 minutes. It easily happens 4-5 times during the duration of a movie so it's basically unwatchable. I've tried this on HDMI 1 and 2 and same issues. It also happens whether i'm using my Blu Ray Player or Nvidia Shield. I'm going bypass my receiver and go direct from the projector to the Nvidia to see if it does the same thing.
> 
> Maybe it is the cable and it's now coincidence but it's driving me nuts and I don't believe there is a way to downgrade to C12 right?


I don't know, at would séem like the HDMI port would get a strong enough signal or it wouldn't. I don't know enough about HDMI signal strength, only that trying other cables at different lengths is the only next step that doesn't require money if you have some other HDMI 2.0 cables sitting around. I do know that long runs for HDMI typically need a repeater or fiber HDMI cables. I never had issues with any 50ft HDMI cable runs for standard throw at 1080p for the last decade. I think I ordered every cable before now from monoprice. 

HDR seems like a bigger issue than 4K on certain cables/device/display combos. I have no idea why. Is there anyway to get the device closer and try another cable? I find at odd that a firmware update would make an HDMI cable stop working. Especially if it was working before the update. Then again software changes could of introduced the issue. I would think you would simply get a no signal error if optoma changed a setting that required a stronger signal than before and the signal is to weak now. I just changed all my cables to 3ft. I had six feet before, as that is kind of the standard length but I've learned with 4K HDR to keep cable as as short as possible. Especially for the P1. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

iiikz said:


> For what it’s worth, I was seeing exactly the same issues on PS4 With game mode enabled: multicolored static, audio pop, followed by black screen and resync. Every 10-20 minutes. NEVER happened prior, and doesn’t happen with my 4K tv. I know you’re dealing with longer runs, but in my case it happened with just a 2m cable.
> 
> Oddly, though, Apple TV was fine, so I switched cables... and it seems to have mostly resolved the issue. I’ve had a couple of minor glitches since getting new cable, but nothing like before.
> 
> The cable(s) in question - I tried a couple before using the one from my Apple TV - work fine with same ps4 and my 4K tv, and one of them I used with P1 before update; but i have issues with both after the update. I can’t explain it. My only guess is that after the update, maybe the P1 signals a higher bandwidth connection to ps4 than the cable can handle?


Second user with the same issue almost always indicates software changes from Optima. I know that Optima had said they were doing testing on the highest used devices like the PS4, Xbox One X, shield, Apple TV and other devices. I think it was all HDR related changes as some devices were having issues. It's impossible to test every cable combination for obvious reasons so it could simply be the cable combo with the new firmware is the actual issue. Maybe it has to do a signal strength, maybe not but something was changed. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Kdub69

Also having issues with firestick 4k, was working perfectly before on hdr now it cuts in and out, definitely the software issue can optomadude take a look at the firestick as well? Thanks! Will this all be addressed in the next patch in august?


----------



## mttjj

Dear @OPTOMA PM DUDE, I'm back to discuss the AppleTV 4K frame drops I've reported previously. I watched another film this evening and experienced the frame drops throughout. 

Film: Room 4K

*AppleTV Info*
Model: A1842 (32GB)
tvOS: 13.4.8 (17M61)
2160p UHD - 60Hz HDR10 4:2:2
Match Content: HDR & Frame Rate

*CinemaX P1 Info *
Version: C14.3
Source: HDMI 2
Resolution: [email protected]
Refresh Rate: 24
Color Depth: 12bit & 4.2.2
Color Format: BT.2020 & HDR

I'm using a brand new HDFury HDMI cable. The only other thing plugged into the projector is a Sonos Arc via the optical audio port.
Only the video is affected when this happens. There are no audio drops or clips. They occur roughly every 5-6 minutes and are reproducible in the same place every single time.

*Timestamps*
0:05:14
0:10:35
0:15:57
0:21:19
0:26:41
0:32:03
0:37:19
0:42:36
0:48:05
0:53:24
0:58:45
1:04:00
1:09:24
1:14:42
1:20:06
1:25:27
1:30:51
1:36:04
1:41:28
1:46:49
1:52:07

Please just give me some kind of acknowledgement that you can reproduce this and your team is investigating further.


----------



## mark.ai

OPTOMA PM DUDE said:


> Will check your images.
> 
> First thing -- verified the issue without the Receiver in the chain?


Thanks, that's a good suggestion, so did some more tests! And with the Sony UBP-X800M2 connected directly to the Optoma then the issue does not occur (change in display after playing HDR content from Prime/Netflix). So it only occurs via the STR-DN1080.

Tried to find any setting on the STR-DN1080 that might affect this by changing them all, but no luck there. Only thing I noticed was that after bringing up the menus and exiting them on the STR-DN1080 then there was approximately a 25% chance the Optoma display would return to normal (with HDR off). So it must be something about the STR-DN1080. It's not a big problem as I know how to workaround it now. So thanks for the help!


----------



## USTGuy

diggumsmax said:


> Currently I have Plex running on a top-of-the-line PC that was built 7 years ago, lol. Might be worth moving to the shield. some 4K materials simply wouldn't play and there was some sort of transcoding going on even though I had toggled every option to only do direct play on my local network. If I make the shield my plex server and I've got a USB drive plugged into it with my media it should actually play with no issues.
> 
> Kodi is a great media player but The default library scanner isn't very good. I'm sure there's some plug-in or something that works way better. Cody just requires more research than flex which is pretty much plug-and-play outside a few settings like hardware transcoding.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


I use my Nvidia Shield TV as my Plex server with extenal drives connected to its USB ports. It direct plays everything without a glitch. I also prefer Plex interface to Kodi, even though I still keep Kodi installed on Nvidia Shield just for backup.


Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## eedwards86

iiikz said:


> For what it’s worth, I was seeing exactly the same issues on PS4 With game mode enabled: multicolored static, audio pop, followed by black screen and resync. Every 10-20 minutes. NEVER happened prior, and doesn’t happen with my 4K tv. I know you’re dealing with longer runs, but in my case it happened with just a 2m cable.
> 
> Oddly, though, Apple TV was fine, so I switched cables... and it seems to have mostly resolved the issue. I’ve had a couple of minor glitches since getting new cable, but nothing like before.
> 
> The cable(s) in question - I tried a couple before using the one from my Apple TV - work fine with same ps4 and my 4K tv, and one of them I used with P1 before update; but i have issues with both after the update. I can’t explain it. My only guess is that after the update, maybe the P1 signals a higher bandwidth connection to ps4 than the cable can handle?


So I ran a bunch of tests and here are my findings. 

My setup includes: Pioneer VSX-LX303, Nvidia Shield Pro, Sony UBP-X700, Firestick 4K latest Gen, Samsung QN49Q6FNAFXZA (UHD HDR TV to replace Optoma P1), Vanco HDAC35 Active HDMI Cable 18 Gbps. All devices have latest Firmware.

Tests:
1. Optoma P1 direct connection via HDMI 1 and 2 using Firestick 4K (No issues)
2. Optoma P1 direct connection via HDMI 1 and 2 using Nvidia Shield Pro and Vanco HDAC35 HDMI cable (No issues)
3. Optoma P1 direct connected to Pioneer Receiver using Vanco HDAC35 (Tested on HDMI 1 and 2). Tested with Nvidia Shield and Sony (Video Issues, no audio issues)
*Tested with Enhanced and Standard 4K settings
4. Samsung direct connected to Pioneer Receiver using Vanco HDCA35. Tested with Nvidia Shield and Sony (No issues)
*Tested with Enhanced and Standard 4K settings

My tests confirmed that there is some HDMI handshake/connection issue between Pioneer LX303 and Optoma P1. I had thought either my 35ft HDMI cable was bad or my receiver was going bad, but when I hook up my UHD HDR Samsung TV there are zero issues.

After a firmware update to my Pioneer it did help minimize the issue (doesn't happen every 5 min, I can sometimes get 30+ minutes before issues occur).

Does anyone else have a Pioneer receiver that can confirm if issues exists?

Optoma Dude, is this something you can look into?


----------



## diggumsmax

This is similar to some on behavior that I am seeing in my setup. I do not know what this issue existed before the firmware update or not unfortunately. I have an older receiver that can decode everything but at most which I don't care about at the moment. 

I ended up buying an HDMI audio extractor that has two HDMI outputs. One HDMI 2.0 B output and one 2.0 or 1.4 port. When playing content at 60 hz everything works flawlessly. 

After the update I mentioned something about it and eurotec praying me to a setting in Kodi that would change this.The video plays fine at 24 hz with HDR. There's no issues but I get absolutely zero audio. I have only tested this with my Nvidia shield. I'm going to test with my Xbox One X later. When I hook the shield up directly to the projector everything works and I can send audio over fiber to my receiver. 

My old receiver is a pioneer. I forget the model but it does everything I need. It just doesn't have an arc Port which is still limited to Dolby digital plus. I think eARC supports everything, which also does Ethernet. I don't see how this is useful. 

I'm also curious about some HDMI 2.1 specs that can be implemented into 2.0b like qms, and other settings that decrease handshaking issues. Hopefully my Xbox One X plays back blu-rays at 24 hz. If so I'll post the results later. regardless it sounds like it's an issue with the audio extractor and not the P1, at least in this scenario

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## eurovtec

1 intriguing question i have for myself......
I think the observation so far is TV displays will not have these handshaking issues.
Why does P1 has this & does the LG cine Hu85LA & other projectors have these type of handshaking issues too?


----------



## MarcusD777

I can verify I have not had any handshaking issues with my LG HU85LA into my Denon receiver and utilizing an Nvidia Shield Pro 2019, Apple TV 4k, Roku Ultra, Xbox One X, Ps4 Pro and Switch. It's been rock solid. When I had an Optoma P1 I would have some bugs/glitches with certain settings and devices but no handshaking issues. Could be an issue with the hdmi cable either length or a bum cable in the chain.


----------



## Kdub69

MarcusD777 said:


> I can verify I have not had any handshaking issues with my LG HU85LA into my Denon receiver and utilizing an Nvidia Shield Pro 2019, Apple TV 4k, Roku Ultra, Xbox One X, Ps4 Pro and Switch. It's been rock solid. When I had an Optoma P1 I would have some bugs/glitches with certain settings and devices but no handshaking issues. Could be an issue with the hdmi cable either length or a bum cable in the chain.


I have a denon reciever denon avr-s950h before the update everythin wores great with 4k firestick now it keeps dropping the hdmi like crazy where I can’t even use the firestick even tried different hdmi slots.... anyone else having this issues where it says to replug in the hdmi?


----------



## eurovtec

MarcusD777 said:


> I can verify I have not had any handshaking issues with my LG HU85LA into my Denon receiver and utilizing an Nvidia Shield Pro 2019, Apple TV 4k, Roku Ultra, Xbox One X, Ps4 Pro and Switch. It's been rock solid. When I had an Optoma P1 I would have some bugs/glitches with certain settings and devices but no handshaking issues. Could be an issue with the hdmi cable either length or a bum cable in the chain.


U have both of the projectors? 
I would think that if the P1 owners are using HDMI cable with the HDMI logo certification, then the cable should be deemed good.
I wonder if it‘s the hardware or software issue of P1 that is causing these issues. 
I hope Optoma can review why LG pj don’t have these problems and why P1 has, and resolve these flaws once and for all.


----------



## MarcusD777

Kdub69 said:


> I have a denon reciever denon avr-s950h before the update everythin wores great with 4k firestick now it keeps dropping the hdmi like crazy where I can’t even use the firestick even tried different hdmi slots.... anyone else having this issues where it says to replug in the hdmi?


I was not able to try the P1 with the newest firmware. The previous firmware was working fine for me handshake wise however. Bummer that this brought a new issue to the forefront for you. Could you look into getting an HD Fury device to mitigate the handshake issues?


----------



## MarcusD777

eurovtec said:


> U have both of the projectors?
> I would think that if the P1 owners are using HDMI cable with the HDMI logo certification, then the cable should be deemed good.
> I wonder if it‘s the hardware or software issue of P1 that is causing these issues.
> I hope Optoma can review why LG pj don’t have these problems and why P1 has, and resolve these flaws once and for all.


I had both but just sold my P1 a week or so ago prior to the new firmware drop. Its a great projector just needs to get all these silly quirks, bugs and inconsistencies remedied. The LG has been out longer than the P1 and I am sure there were some bugs at the original launch.


----------



## Kdub69

MarcusD777 said:


> I was not able to try the P1 with the newest firmware. The previous firmware was working fine for me handshake wise however. Bummer that this brought a new issue to the forefront for you. Could you look into getting an HD Fury device to mitigate the handshake issues?


I was just considering on getting a nvida sheild pro to replace the firestick 4k or do I wait till the update fix comes out who knows when optoma dude will even acknowledge that this is a issue with the firestick 4k? Not even sure when he will reply back?


----------



## Kdub69

Just wondering if anyone else is having handshake issues on the new firmware with the firestick 4k? Or does it work properly?


----------



## MarcusD777

Kdub69 said:


> I was just considering on getting a nvida sheild pro to replace the firestick 4k or do I wait till the update fix comes out who knows when optoma dude will even acknowledge that this is a issue with the firestick 4k? Not even sure when he will reply back?


Cant go wrong with the nvidia shield pro 2019. I also recommend the Roku 4K Ultra if you want something more streamlined (less options/settings to mess with). I know there were some previous issues with the Optoma and Apple 4K otherwise I'd recommend that as well. Try one of them out and see if you are having the same issues. I cant imagine there will be another firmware update for awhile based on how long the previous one took to compile, test and release.


----------



## eedwards86

Kdub69 said:


> Just wondering if anyone else is having handshake issues on the new firmware with the firestick 4k? Or does it work properly?


I did not have any handshake issues when Firestick 4K was connected directly to the P1.

Also, I decided yesterday to completely reset the P1 back to factory default. Once I did that, I was able to watch an entire movie without any issues. I watched a second movie and video only flickered twice but it was quick and subtle. It may be too soon to speculate but I think the factory reset helped. I'm going to watch more content tonight to see if the issue comes back or if there was real improvements. If there is, then I'd recommend a factory reset to see if that improves the issue for others here.


----------



## diggumsmax

eedwards86 said:


> I did not have any handshake issues when Firestick 4K was connected directly to the P1.
> 
> Also, I decided yesterday to completely reset the P1 back to factory default. Once I did that, I was able to watch an entire movie without any issues. I watched a second movie and video only flickered twice but it was quick and subtle. It may be too soon to speculate but I think the factory reset helped. I'm going to watch more content tonight to see if the issue comes back or if there was real improvements. If there is, then I'd recommend a factory reset to see if that improves the issue for others here.


I think your the second person that has said a factory reset resolved all issues. I'm going to and write down all my settings and perform one myself layer. Maybe the update doesn't handle some setting correctly and a factory reset fixes it. It's worth a shot. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Kdub69

eedwards86 said:


> I did not have any handshake issues when Firestick 4K was connected directly to the P1.
> 
> Also, I decided yesterday to completely reset the P1 back to factory default. Once I did that, I was able to watch an entire movie without any issues. I watched a second movie and video only flickered twice but it was quick and subtle. It may be too soon to speculate but I think the factory reset helped. I'm going to watch more content tonight to see if the issue comes back or if there was real improvements. If there is, then I'd recommend a factory reset to see if that improves the issue for others here.


a few questions for you.

1) factory reset how do you do it?
2) what firmware where you on before the factory reset? 
3) if you were on the latest firmware did the factory reset bring you all the way back to c12? Then you had to upgrade ota?

always nervous doing factory resets


----------



## diggumsmax

Kdub69 said:


> I was just considering on getting a nvida sheild pro to replace the firestick 4k or do I wait till the update fix comes out who knows when optoma dude will even acknowledge that this is a issue with the firestick 4k? Not even sure when he will reply back?


The only other thing I would look for is the new Chromecast. It was rumored to have a remote and be running full Android TV V10. GUI and all. This is primarily if you care about YouTube HDR. I imagine the hardware on the shield is still going to be much more powerful than what comes in the new Chromecast as they tend to target the sub-100 range. I'm not sure but maybe the information's has already been leaked. Google can't keep anything a secret. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## eedwards86

Kdub69 said:


> a few questions for you.
> 
> 1) factory reset how do you do it?
> 2) what firmware where you on before the factory reset?
> 3) if you were on the latest firmware did the factory reset bring you all the way back to c12? Then you had to upgrade ota?
> 
> always nervous doing factory resets


Here you go:

1. Within main menu, go to Settings - System - Reset
2. I was on C14.3 before factory reset
3. It's still on C14.3 after the reset. There is no upgrade when you reset, it basically takes the P1 back to default as if you had just purchased it.

It will make you go through the process of pairing your remote, connecting to WiFi , etc once you do this so I would make sure to document your settings as they'll all be gone.


----------



## eedwards86

MarcusD777 said:


> I was not able to try the P1 with the newest firmware. The previous firmware was working fine for me handshake wise however. Bummer that this brought a new issue to the forefront for you. Could you look into getting an HD Fury device to mitigate the handshake issues?


Do you know which HD Fury device specifically would be good in this instance? Would the DR HDMI 4k work? I don't know much about these products. Thanks!


----------



## MarcusD777

eedwards86 said:


> Do you know which HD Fury device specifically would be good in this instance? Would the DR HDMI 4k work? I don't know much about these products. Thanks!


Yes, the DR HDMI unit would be the most straightforward and cost effective solution that should mitigate any HDMI handshake issues (if that is in fact the issue). I would 100% make sure its not an hdmi cable issue (try 6ft - 8ft cables that are full bandwidth) or perhaps your AVR (try bypassing AVR and go straight into projector from device). I have a Vertex 2 that is a more complex box with a bunch of options for scaling, EDID management, signal conversion, etc... Alot pricier but I mainly use it to send LLDV (Dolby Vision) from my Nvidia Shield Pro to my projector so I can use the dynamic tone mapping of Dolby Vision specific available streams/BluRays.


----------



## eedwards86

MarcusD777 said:


> Yes, the DR HDMI unit would be the most straightforward and cost effective solution that should mitigate any HDMI handshake issues (if that is in fact the issue). I would 100% make sure its not an hdmi cable issue (try 6ft - 8ft cables that are full bandwidth) or perhaps your AVR (try bypassing AVR and go straight into projector from device). I have a Vertex 2 that is a more complex box with a bunch of options for scaling, EDID management, signal conversion, etc... Alot pricier but I mainly use it to send LLDV (Dolby Vision) from my Nvidia Shield Pro to my projector so I can use the dynamic tone mapping of Dolby Vision specific available streams/BluRays.


It shouldn't be the cable as I ran these tests bypassing the Receiver and using the Receiver with another TV but let me know if this wouldn't be the case:

P1 ---> HDAC35 ---> LX303 ---> Shield (Bad)
P1 ---> HDAC35 ---> Shield (Good)
Samsung ---> HDAC35 ---> LX303 ---> Shield (Good)

I unfortunately don't have another cable to test and I'd need at least 12ft to test (do you think it's worth purchasing a new one to test or is the above satisfactory?)

Lastly, even though the P1 can't handle Dolby Vision, you can still get tone mapping benefits from it by using Vertex 2?


----------



## MarcusD777

eedwards86 said:


> It shouldn't be the cable as I ran these tests bypassing the Receiver and using the Receiver with another TV but let me know if this wouldn't be the case:
> 
> P1 ---> HDAC35 ---> LX303 ---> Shield (Bad)
> P1 ---> HDAC35 ---> Shield (Good)
> Samsung ---> HDAC35 ---> LX303 ---> Shield (Good)
> 
> I unfortunately don't have another cable to test and I'd need at least 12ft to test (do you think it's worth purchasing a new one to test or is the above satisfactory?)
> 
> Lastly, even though the P1 can't handle Dolby Vision, you can still get tone mapping benefits from it by using Vertex 2?


So I fully understand your setup... The HDAC35 is an active 35' hdmi cable? Do you have this connected from your shield into your receiver then another HDAC35 going out of your receiver into the P1? 

As far as the P1 handling Dolby Vision, yes it would be able to accept Dolby Vision (LLDV) when using a Vertex 2 EDID spoof. It will work with any TV or Projector that supports HDR. You would need to use it with one of the devices suchs as a Nvidia Shield Pro 2019 or Apple 4k TV that will send the LLDV to your projector instead of your projector handling the tone mapping internally (since it can not do this).


----------



## eedwards86

MarcusD777 said:


> So I fully understand your setup... The HDAC35 is an active 35' hdmi cable? Do you have this connected from your shield into your receiver then another HDAC35 going out of your receiver into the P1?
> 
> As far as the P1 handling Dolby Vision, yes it would be able to accept Dolby Vision (LLDV) when using a Vertex 2 EDID spoof. It will work with any TV or Projector that supports HDR. You would need to use it with one of the devices suchs as a Nvidia Shield Pro 2019 or Apple 4k TV that will send the LLDV to your projector instead of your projector handling the tone mapping internally (since it can not do this).


I have my devices (Shield, Sony X700) connected to inputs on my AVR (LX303) using 3' HDMI 18Gbps cables. The 35' active HDMI cable is connected to Output on AVR through the walls to my P1. For testing purposes I had used the 35' HDMI cable to connect devices directly to the P1 to see if the AVR and/or Cable was an issue.

If I were to use a Vertex 2, how does that fit into the equation, does that sit in between the P1 and the Output of AVR? Or does that have to hook in directly to the Shield/Apple?


----------



## Kdub69

Did the factory reset it made the handsake problem better as in I can use the firestick however it still cuts in and out once or twice but then connects which was better than not working at all! Thx for the help


----------



## eedwards86

Kdub69 said:


> Did the factory reset it made the handsake problem better as in I can use the firestick however it still cuts in and out once or twice but then connects which was better than not working at all! Thx for the help


Is your Firestick connected directly to the P1 or is that going through your AVR?


----------



## Kdub69

Its going through the avr but I had no issues prior to 14.3 update


----------



## MarcusD777

eedwards86 said:


> I have my devices (Shield, Sony X700) connected to inputs on my AVR (LX303) using 3' HDMI 18Gbps cables. The 35' active HDMI cable is connected to Output on AVR through the walls to my P1. For testing purposes I had used the 35' HDMI cable to connect devices directly to the P1 to see if the AVR and/or Cable was an issue.
> 
> If I were to use a Vertex 2, how does that fit into the equation, does that sit in between the P1 and the Output of AVR? Or does that have to hook in directly to the Shield/Apple?


Maybe try going 3' hdmi from shield into AVR then another 3' hdmi out of AVR into P1 and see if that works. Take that 35' cable out of the equation just to be safe. 

For the Vertex 2 you would go Shield into Vertex 2 then out to an input in your AVR then out to your P1. It has multiple inputs so you could feed a few different devices into it as needed. If your AVR does not have passthrough abilities then you would probably want to put it after your AVR before the input of your projector.


----------



## eedwards86

Kdub69 said:


> Its going through the avr but I had no issues prior to 14.3 update


After the reset the problem still exists. I've confirmed with another user on Reddit that they're having the same problem so this definitely is a bug. For now I've set EDID to 1.4 and that's resolved it; at least that way I can watch content with no issues but i'm stuck on 1080p now. I hope Optoma PM Dude can acknowledge this problem and it gets fixed on the next Firmware update.


----------



## Rondo1

Hey Guys, I have a simple question. I'm about to pull the trigger on a Optoma P1 and a Vividstorm UST/ALR screen. I'm kind of a set it and forget it kind of guy and hardly ever tinker with my projector once it's setup and running. My ROKU will be the sole source of content (with a once in a blue-moon blu-ray thrown in for good measure). Reading through these recent posts, there seems to be a lot of possible issues with guys upgrading the firmware and associated problems. Would those of you that own this projector still recommend this for someone like me who isn't picky about precise colors, etc.? I just like a damn good picture and want to watch what I want to watch - when I want to watch it. I'm also a stickler for having good quality hardware - without going too crazy overboard on price (not looking for ultra high-end, etc.). 

That being said, would you still recommend this projector? 
Are you happy with it overall - even with some of these recent issues that some of you are mentioning? 
Should I consider the VAVA and save a thousand bucks? 
Would you buy it again if given the opportunity? 

Thanks!


----------



## Kdub69

Rondo1 said:


> Hey Guys, I have a simple question. I'm about to pull the trigger on a Optoma P1 and a Vividstorm UST/ALR screen. I'm kind of a set it and forget it kind of guy and hardly ever tinker with my projector once it's setup and running. My ROKU will be the sole source of content (with a once in a blue-moon blu-ray thrown in for good measure). Reading through these recent posts, there seems to be a lot of possible issues with guys upgrading the firmware and associated problems. Would those of you that own this projector still recommend this for someone like me who isn't picky about precise colors, etc.? I just like a damn good picture and want to watch what I want to watch - when I want to watch it. I'm also a stickler for having good quality hardware - without going too crazy overboard on price (not looking for ultra high-end, etc.).
> 
> That being said, would you still recommend this projector?
> Are you happy with it overall - even with some of these recent issues that some of you are mentioning?
> Should I consider the VAVA and save a thousand bucks?
> Would you buy it again if given the opportunity?
> 
> Thanks!


I’m still very happy with this projector it will only get better even though the updates have had glitches and are taking forever in the long run watching a movie in 4k hdr on a alr screen is amazing!

I’m still looking for someone to post calibrated settings for hdr and sdr?
Can someone help me out?

thanks!


----------



## eurovtec

Rondo1 said:


> Hey Guys, I have a simple question. I'm about to pull the trigger on a Optoma P1 and a Vividstorm UST/ALR screen. I'm kind of a set it and forget it kind of guy and hardly ever tinker with my projector once it's setup and running. My ROKU will be the sole source of content (with a once in a blue-moon blu-ray thrown in for good measure). Reading through these recent posts, there seems to be a lot of possible issues with guys upgrading the firmware and associated problems. Would those of you that own this projector still recommend this for someone like me who isn't picky about precise colors, etc.? I just like a damn good picture and want to watch what I want to watch - when I want to watch it. I'm also a stickler for having good quality hardware - without going too crazy overboard on price (not looking for ultra high-end, etc.).
> 
> That being said, would you still recommend this projector?
> Are you happy with it overall - even with some of these recent issues that some of you are mentioning?
> Should I consider the VAVA and save a thousand bucks?
> Would you buy it again if given the opportunity?
> 
> Thanks!


P1 is a good projector, without the glitches it will be great projector.
So far the problems of P1 is HDR & is due to the sources & the AVR brand.
I’m using HTPC windows & Denon AVR. So far the only problem I have is the dynamic black(brightness setting) issue.

It’s so sensitive to the input source based on the various users who reported their issues.
If you have the chance to go to a retailer that sells various projectors like P1, VAVA, Wemax and bring your Roku to test on them, you can determine if the $ is well spent for P1.
If not, I would suggest that you can try to find out if there’s any ROKU users using P1 and their experience.


----------



## diggumsmax

Rondo1 said:


> That being said, would you still recommend this projector?
> 
> Are you happy with it overall - even with some of these recent issues that some of you are mentioning?
> 
> Should I consider the VAVA and save a thousand bucks?
> 
> Would you buy it again if given the opportunity?
> 
> Thanks!


- Yes, I've had some issues, as others have stated mostly HDR issues with specific devices. It gives the better HDR picture then the Vava and is sharper based of reviews. 

- Yes, Recent update and short run (3 meters) quality HDMI 2.1 (even though the ports or HDMI 2.0b) cables fixed almost all my issues. SDR to HDR conversion is much, much faster when it switches into HDR mode. Routing audio to my non arc receiver has been the only challenge left and hopefully that will be resolved tomorrow. Can play high bit-rate movies at 60fps with Dolby-True HD or DTS MA or 24fps using the soundbar. For some reason the audio extractor doesn't seem to handle 24fps. For Kodi, I get video but no audio through receiver, for Plex, I get nothing. Hopefully, this resolves the issue. Then I can use the current audio extractor as a switch to get some more HDMI inputs. It works great with a 4K FPS HDR which is what most everything will be except some high encode movie rips.

Up to you but you will get a better picture with the P1. ESPECIALLY with HDR content (This is based on online reviews from various tech sites, I have not seen the Vava in person). Almost every video/article comparing the two agree the P1 probably just beats out the LG for HDR performance. If you are planning on using the integrated sound, it's built that way so you will have zero issues and a quality soundbar.

Yes, I wish tariffs didn't jack up the price but Optima is a smaller company and can't take the type of hits LG and other big manufactures who all make an assortment of electronics can. They only make projectors, and they are great at it. In regards to the LG, the price increase was almost entirely due to the new two (three?) laser light engine with no color wheel. That or it uses a yellow phosphors for one of the colors. You aren't going to get a better looking picture for the price range.


----------



## diggumsmax

Thanks, I ended up making it a second Plex server. When routing through this HDMI audio extractor nothing works with Plex at 24hz. Kodi plays HDR video at 24fps but no audio. When plugged directly into the P1 I get Dolby Digital or PCM from fiber. Everything plays at 60hz with pass through audio with no issues so it just doesn't handle 24hz. I am going to see if there is a software update but if not I may just get this as I only need one device to play at 24fps and the Shield is the obvious choice. 


USTGuy said:


> I use my Nvidia Shield TV as my Plex server with extenal drives connected to its USB ports. It direct plays everything without a glitch. I also prefer Plex interface to Kodi, even though I still keep Kodi installed on Nvidia Shield just for backup.
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

Rondo1 said:


> Hey Guys, I have a simple question. I'm about to pull the trigger on a Optoma P1 and a Vividstorm UST/ALR screen. I'm kind of a set it and forget it kind of guy and hardly ever tinker with my projector once it's setup and running. My ROKU will be the sole source of content (with a once in a blue-moon blu-ray thrown in for good measure). Reading through these recent posts, there seems to be a lot of possible issues with guys upgrading the firmware and associated problems. Would those of you that own this projector still recommend this for someone like me who isn't picky about precise colors, etc.? I just like a damn good picture and want to watch what I want to watch - when I want to watch it. I'm also a stickler for having good quality hardware - without going too crazy overboard on price (not looking for ultra high-end, etc.).
> 
> That being said, would you still recommend this projector?
> Are you happy with it overall - even with some of these recent issues that some of you are mentioning?
> Should I consider the VAVA and save a thousand bucks?
> Would you buy it again if given the opportunity?
> 
> Thanks!


I own both this projector and the Vava. I'm keeping both for different reasons.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## eedwards86

diggumsmax said:


> - Yes, I've had some issues, as others have stated mostly HDR issues with specific devices. It gives the better HDR picture then the Vava and is sharper based of reviews.
> 
> - Yes, Recent update and short run (3 meters) quality HDMI 2.1 (even though the ports or HDMI 2.0b) cables fixed almost all my issues. SDR to HDR conversion is much, much faster when it switches into HDR mode. Routing audio to my non arc receiver has been the only challenge left and hopefully that will be resolved tomorrow. Can play high bit-rate movies at 60fps with Dolby-True HD or DTS MA or 24fps using the soundbar. For some reason the audio extractor doesn't seem to handle 24fps. For Kodi, I get video but no audio through receiver, for Plex, I get nothing. Hopefully, this resolves the issue. Then I can use the current audio extractor as a switch to get some more HDMI inputs. It works great with a 4K FPS HDR which is what most everything will be except some high encode movie rips.
> 
> Up to you but you will get a better picture with the P1. ESPECIALLY with HDR content (This is based on online reviews from various tech sites, I have not seen the Vava in person). Almost every video/article comparing the two agree the P1 probably just beats out the LG for HDR performance. If you are planning on using the integrated sound, it's built that way so you will have zero issues and a quality soundbar.
> 
> Yes, I wish tariffs didn't jack up the price but Optima is a smaller company and can't take the type of hits LG and other big manufactures who all make an assortment of electronics can. They only make projectors, and they are great at it. In regards to the LG, the price increase was almost entirely due to the new two (three?) laser light engine with no color wheel. That or it uses a yellow phosphors for one of the colors. You aren't going to get a better looking picture for the price range.


We're you having video issues when using an HDMI 2.0b cable vs. HDMI 2.1? I'm tempted to update my long run cable through the walls but it'll be costly and my concern is I do that and it doesn't provide any gains, but if you were able to fix the same issues i'm having by updating to 48Gbps HDMI cable that would be great to know. Thanks!


----------



## diggumsmax

eedwards86 said:


> We're you having video issues when using an HDMI 2.0b cable vs. HDMI 2.1? I'm tempted to update my long run cable through the walls but it'll be costly and my concern is I do that and it doesn't provide any gains, but if you were able to fix the same issues i'm having by updating to 48Gbps HDMI cable that would be great to know. Thanks!


It really depends on the cable quality. I had issues with the cable that came with the P1, which I was told I shouldn't use. I tried several 2.0b cables with various results. Best results where actually on a 6ft fiber HDMI 2.0b cable. While fiber isn't needed at that short of a run I figured I would give it a shot. It still had issues but less. For some reason it will only output 480p and I I'm dealing with the manufacturer to get her replaced because it had a lifetime warranty. Some of the so so called 2.1 cables I bought where before the specs where finished (I think, I am still not sure if they are finished yet). Currently I'm using these I got them the day before the firmware update and the handshaking and dropouts where almost gone. The switch from. SDR to HDR is much faster, although I'm positive that's the firmware update and not the cables.

If it's a long cable run (25ft+) then I would go with a quality fiber HDMI cable, they are not cheap but you won't have to worry about running it through a wall, or adding signal boosters, ect.. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## eedwards86

diggumsmax said:


> It really depends on the cable quality. I had issues with the cable that came with the P1, which I was told I shouldn't use. I tried several 2.0b cables with various results. Best results where actually on a 6ft fiber HDMI 2.0b cable. While fiber isn't needed at that short of a run I figured I would give it a shot. It still had issues but less. For some reason it will only output 480p and I I'm dealing with the manufacturer to get her replaced because it had a lifetime warranty. Some of the so so called 2.1 cables I bought where before the specs where finished (I think, I am still not sure if they are finished yet). Currently I'm using these I got them the day before the firmware update and the handshaking and dropouts where almost gone. The switch from. SDR to HDR is much faster, although I'm positive that's the firmware update and not the cables.
> 
> If it's a long cable run (25ft+) then I would go with a quality fiber HDMI cable, they are not cheap but you won't have to worry about running it through a wall, or adding signal boosters, ect..
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


I ordered a shorter HDMI 2.1 (48Gbps) cable so will give that a try this weekend and see if it makes any improvements. Either way it seems Optoma has some fixes it needs to make. I attempted to reach out to their support with no luck so i'm not sure if they're aware of this or not.

I'll report back once I've tested.


----------



## michael-avs-forum

Hey, has anyone tested the input lag since the new firmware update? I'm trying to find information on this, but haven't seen it.


----------



## Kev1000000

michael-avs-forum said:


> Hey, has anyone tested the input lag since the new firmware update? I'm trying to find information on this, but haven't seen it.


Yes, it's still 70ms+ in game mode.


----------



## michael-avs-forum

Damn... that's disappointing. I was hoping they'd managed to hit 50ms like they claim, which would probably be the point I get myself a new projector!

Thanks for the info Kev!

Btw, did you test it or did you see a link to someone testing it? I wasn't able to find any references searching myself.


----------



## Kev1000000

michael-avs-forum said:


> Damn... that's disappointing. I was hoping they'd managed to hit 50ms like they claim, which would probably be the point I get myself a new projector!
> 
> Thanks for the info Kev!
> 
> Btw, did you test it or did you see a link to someone testing it? I wasn't able to find any references searching myself.


I "tested" it by comparing to other known input lag sources. It's faster than my TV, at ~110ms, but slower than my old projector: ~50ms. It "feels" at about 70ms to me, so while not super scientific, I am pretty sensitive to this stuff and would bet I am pretty close with pegging the current input lag at 70ms. I think that is close to their official claims as well, btw.


----------



## Kdub69

Thinking of buying the nvidia shield pro to replace firestick 4k, anyone that has the nvidia can you tell me if everything works fine in the new update and does hdr work good?


----------



## USTGuy

Kdub69 said:


> Thinking of buying the nvidia shield pro to replace firestick 4k, anyone that has the nvidia can you tell me if everything works fine in the new update and does hdr work good?


It does for me

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

Is the lumen count on this projector considered low, medium, or high?

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## g4s

Kdub69 said:


> Thinking of buying the nvidia shield pro to replace firestick 4k, anyone that has the nvidia can you tell me if everything works fine in the new update and does hdr work good?


I've got a 2007 Nvidia Shield. Works great for me.


----------



## Kdub69

USTGuy said:


> It does for me
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Are you able to stream 4k hdr, on kodi through a addon? What type of hdmi cable are you using do you have a link? Thanks! Are you using standard default settings on the shield or did you have to program something/modify for it to work without the handshake issue/hdr


----------



## Kdub69

g4s said:


> I've got a 2007 Nvidia Shield. Works great for me.


Are you able to stream 4k hdr no problem? What kind of hdmi cable are you using? Did you use kodi to stream hdr 4k online? Any mods to shield
For it to work no problem? Are you using standard settings on the shield?

thanks!


----------



## diggumsmax

Kdub69 said:


> Are you able to stream 4k hdr no problem? What kind of hdmi cable are you using? Did you use kodi to stream hdr 4k online? Any mods to shield
> For it to work no problem? Are you using standard settings on the shield?
> 
> thanks!


For what it's worth I got an HD furry audio extractor yesterday. not one dropout or issue last night after 6 hours of viewing. This was going back between different resolution material, different audio formats, HDR and SDR content. High bitrate movies on Plex and kod. Some low bitrate like Netflix others high bit rate like 4K disc rips. Also does 24hz/fps. I had ordered a cheaper audio extractor and it works great for 60 FPS but there is no audio for 24fps.

I don't know if it's the added EDID management but not one single dropout. Everything was super quick like switching inputs and switching from SDR to SDR and back. I'm kind of wishing I had spent the extra $100 to get the one with two inputs and two outputs. The one I have got has one input and two outputs. One output for display. One output for older non-arc receiver. I don't have the setup to take advantage of Atmos so I don't care about it at the moment. 

The only issue is there were two firmware updates and I can only apply the first. It would not allow me to install anything in 4.0 0.0 folder. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## eedwards86

diggumsmax said:


> For what it's worth I got an HD furry audio extractor yesterday. not one dropout or issue last night after 6 hours of viewing. This was going back between different resolution material, different audio formats, HDR and SDR content. High bitrate movies on Plex and kod. Some low bitrate like Netflix others high bit rate like 4K disc rips. Also does 24hz/fps. I had ordered a cheaper audio extractor and it works great for 60 FPS but there is no audio for 24fps.
> 
> I don't know if it's the added EDID management but not one single dropout. Everything was super quick like switching inputs and switching from SDR to SDR and back. I'm kind of wishing I had spent the extra $100 to get the one with two inputs and two outputs. The one I have got has one input and two outputs. One output for display. One output for older non-arc receiver. I don't have the setup to take advantage of Atmos so I don't care about it at the moment.
> 
> The only issue is there were two firmware updates and I can only apply the first. It would not allow me to install anything in 4.0 0.0 folder.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


So you were having video drop-out issues before adding HD Fury to the equation? What's the connection setup? StreamBox -> HD Fury Input -> AVR Output and P1 Output?

I'm thinking of getting an HD Fury (don't know what model), but I'd want it to sit between the AVR and the P1 as that's where issues exist. So it would be: Shield/Sony -> AVR -> HD Fury -> P1; does that make sense?


----------



## diggumsmax

eedwards86 said:


> So you were having video drop-out issues before adding HD Fury to the equation? What's the connection setup? StreamBox -> HD Fury Input -> AVR Output and P1 Output?
> 
> I'm thinking of getting an HD Fury (don't know what model), but I'd want it to sit between the AVR and the P1 as that's where issues exist. So it would be: Shield/Sony -> AVR -> HD Fury -> P1; does that make sense?


Below is the model I got. I think I spent around $80 on a four input two output audio extractor and this thing is 10 times better. My Nvidia hi pro 2019 plugs into the avrkey, been there are two outputs, one for the display and one for your receiver. I've got a roughly 10 to 11-year-old pioneer receiver that does everything but Dolby Atmos and the newest version of DTS. I don't have the speaker set up to benefit from either of those so spending that much on the receiver is a waste of money to me unless I want to buy 10 more speakers and another sub. I tested Dolby true HD, DTS MA, DD+, DTS, and Dolby digital OG. Before, when using the audio extractor switch, I had to restart or unplug and unplug things in sometimes to get it to work for either video or audio. 

It's pretty much plug and play after updating the firmware. Still need to try and see why the second firmware update wouldn't take. Great product. I had to set my shield at a 90 millisecond audio delay to match the video output of the P1. That's now at zero. 

HDFury AVRKEY 18Gbps with Enlarged Heatsink | HDMI Audio Extractor | 4K HDR Splitter

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Kdub69

diggumsmax said:


> For what it's worth I got an HD furry audio extractor yesterday. not one dropout or issue last night after 6 hours of viewing. This was going back between different resolution material, different audio formats, HDR and SDR content. High bitrate movies on Plex and kod. Some low bitrate like Netflix others high bit rate like 4K disc rips. Also does 24hz/fps. I had ordered a cheaper audio extractor and it works great for 60 FPS but there is no audio for 24fps.
> 
> I don't know if it's the added EDID management but not one single dropout. Everything was super quick like switching inputs and switching from SDR to SDR and back. I'm kind of wishing I had spent the extra $100 to get the one with two inputs and two outputs. The one I have got has one input and two outputs. One output for display. One output for older non-arc receiver. I don't have the setup to take advantage of Atmos so I don't care about it at the moment.
> 
> The only issue is there were two firmware updates and I can only apply the first. It would not allow me to install anything in 4.0 0.0 folder.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Where did you buy it from? Right now I have the optoma p1 plugged into my dennon reciever Which has everything in it example ps4 which works fine, firestick 4k having issues thinking about getting a nvidia sheild or is my money better spent on the fury?


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

eedwards86 said:


> So you were having video drop-out issues before adding HD Fury to the equation? What's the connection setup? StreamBox -> HD Fury Input -> AVR Output and P1 Output?
> 
> I'm thinking of getting an HD Fury (don't know what model), but I'd want it to sit between the AVR and the P1 as that's where issues exist. So it would be: Shield/Sony -> AVR -> HD Fury -> P1; does that make sense?


Also thinking about a setup similar to what you propose but not because I experience any problems instead to take advantage of the LLDV (Low Latency Dolby Vision) trick people are raving about which allows sending of DV content to the projector and gaining from the dynamic tone mapping of DV on a HDR10 display.

So far I have narrowed this down to two possibilities, either the Vertex 2 (4 inputs, 2 outputs) which if i setup as you propose (after the AVR) is a waste as i only nee the 1 input from the AVR. The other possible is the Arcana (1 input, 2 outputs) which is half the price and compatible with the LLDV trick..but it’s not actually been released yet. I think i will pre order it though as it seems perfect for what I want to achieve.


----------



## diggumsmax

Kdub69 said:


> Where did you buy it from? Right now I have the optoma p1 plugged into my dennon reciever Which has everything in it example ps4 which works fine, firestick 4k having issues thinking about getting a nvidia sheild or is my money better spent on the fury?


Amazon. Hard call, the Nvidia shield is the best media player out there outside a mini PC, especially if you got high bitrate 4J/HDR encodes versus what you get with most streaming services. The only downside is no HDR for YouTube. I guess it depends on the number of dropouts and issues you are having. If it's that much of a headache then I think it's worth the money. Like I said I wish I would have spent the extra 100 bucks to get the Integral 2 ( I think, cheaper model, not sure why monoprice version does outside connect to that key you have to order). 

Not sure how many devices you have but you're going to want to run anything that's 4K HDR through this thing so things can get pricey if you need the vertex 2. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## eedwards86

diggumsmax said:


> Amazon. Hard call, the Nvidia shield is the best media player out there outside a mini PC, especially if you got high bitrate 4J/HDR encodes versus what you get with most streaming services. The only downside is no HDR for YouTube. I guess it depends on the number of dropouts and issues you are having. If it's that much of a headache then I think it's worth the money. Like I said I wish I would have spent the extra 100 bucks to get the Integral 2 ( I think, cheaper model, not sure why monoprice version does outside connect to that key you have to order).
> 
> Not sure how many devices you have but you're going to want to run anything that's 4K HDR through this thing so things can get pricey if you need the vertex 2.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


So it sounds like it makes more sense to take video processes away from the AVR and essentially use an HD Fury box to send Audio-only to the AVR and use the output on HD Fury to pass through all video directly to the P1. You obviously had to do that since your AVR is older, but I think there may be some benefits to that for even newer AVR systems. To verify, can the HD Fury (any model) work this way:

Nvidia Shield -> Input #1 on HD Fury
Sony X700 -> Input #2 on HD Fury
(other device) -> Input #3 on HD Fury

HD Fury -> Output #1 to AVR (Audio Only)
HD Fury -> Output #2 to P1 (Video Only)

If the above can work that way then I may go that route as the only handshake issues I have are between my AVR and P1 and the setup above would avoid that. I just don't know enough about HD Fury boxes to understand if this setup can work and what configuration needs to happen. I also would like to get this for the LLDV trick people have been mentioning so it may achieve both things.

Thoughts?


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

eedwards86 said:


> So it sounds like it makes more sense to take video processes away from the AVR and essentially use an HD Fury box to send Audio-only to the AVR and use the output on HD Fury to pass through all video directly to the P1. You obviously had to do that since your AVR is older, but I think there may be some benefits to that for even newer AVR systems. To verify, can the HD Fury (any model) work this way:
> 
> Nvidia Shield -> Input #1 on HD Fury
> Sony X700 -> Input #2 on HD Fury
> (other device) -> Input #3 on HD Fury
> 
> HD Fury -> Output #1 to AVR (Audio Only)
> HD Fury -> Output #2 to P1 (Video Only)
> 
> If the above can work that way then I may go that route as the only handshake issues I have are between my AVR and P1 and the setup above would avoid that. I just don't know enough about HD Fury boxes to understand if this setup can work and what configuration needs to happen. I also would like to get this for the LLDV trick people have been mentioning so it may achieve both things.
> 
> Thoughts?


You can definitely do that with a Vertex 2, it has output for audio and output for video. Like i mentioned above i considered this option but have decided to pre order the Arcana and save around 200 dollars on the price of a Vertex 2. To clarify I do not have any HDMI handshake issues with my Denon AVR.


----------



## eedwards86

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> You can definitely do that with a Vertex 2, it has output for audio and output for video. Like i mentioned above i considered this option but have decided to pre order the Arcana and save around 200 dollars on the price of a Vertex 2. To clarify I do not have any HDMI handshake issues with my Denon AVR.


That makes sense because you just use the output from the AVR into the input on the Arcana and output to your P1. That should give you the ability to spoof LLDV. I just got an 8K HDMI cable so hoping that resolves handshake issues and then I could consider this approach.


----------



## g4s

Kdub69 said:


> Are you able to stream 4k hdr no problem? What kind of hdmi cable are you using? Did you use kodi to stream hdr 4k online? Any mods to shield
> For it to work no problem? Are you using standard settings on the shield?
> 
> thanks!


It streams 4k HDR from Netflix no problem. I don't use KODI for steaming, only local 4k HDR rips from a hard drive. I don't remember what kind of cables I have. They're just inexpensive high speed running through a Yamaha receiver. I think most settings on it are default.


----------



## diggumsmax

Quick reply to avoid any confusion. It will play 4K HDR from Netflix from an external 4K video device without any issues. The built in apps are limited to 480p. You are NOT going to want to use them, they are garbage and so is the marketplace. It's like Samsung's first version of Android and Amazon's only phone OS had a child and Samsung and Amazon are related. 

The only bad thing left for me is the dynamic black 1 not sticking, for lack of a better term. That and I hope they can improve the lag time but if not I can live with it. Dynamic Black 1 looks amazing for about 15-20 minutes but then the picture gets way to dark. I might even write a home assistant automation script to toggle between the brightest setting and dynamic black 1 every 20 minutes but that would still have to bring up the OSD menu which would be distracting.


----------



## diggumsmax

eedwards86 said:


> That makes sense because you just use the output from the AVR into the input on the Arcana and output to your P1. That should give you the ability to spoof LLDV. I just got an 8K HDMI cable so hoping that resolves handshake issues and then I could consider this approach.


If I had not already paid for the AVRKey I would get the Vertex 2. I did not know how much of a difference this thing would make. It would be hard to return a product to Amazon for working to good. Then again, they will take about anything back for credit. 

Is the only different between the Integral 2 and Vertex 2 the OSD? It looks like that is it. You look like you get more options with the Vertex 2 also. Seems like it's worth the extra money for the additional options. I have no interest in the Blu keys for Android/iOS support/configuration and that appears to work on both.

I don't have a 4K receiver so I don't have the option on the Arcadia. Seems like that should resolve the issue. It just seems like you need at least a good 8 to 10 speakers to do Atmos right. Which means more channels, which means more amps (probably, depends on the receiver you buy). Plus, they don't like to make receivers with the older RCA cable outputs to amps. My 11 year old ROTEL RMB-1075 has zero issues and my SVS sub stills sounds great. Only pricey ones with CLR outputs, which is out of my price range and my ROTEL does not have,


----------



## diggumsmax

As others have stated it may be best to go with the Integral 2, Vertex 2 or Arcana depending on what works best for you. Please note the HDFury has this on their website for the AVRKey. I have not expecienced one audio dropout. They increased the size of the heatsink on the newer models but once those are sold out they are not making anymore. The Vertex 2 seems to give you the most options as far as setup is concerned. Unless you need more ports. 

AVRKey main page. 


Code:


When playing 600MHz/18Gbps signal and only for such signal (4K60 4:4:4 8b or 4K60 4:2:2 12b), you might experience a very short sound dropout after 3-5 hours of use.
New AVR-Key now shipping was tested for 7 hours without any dropout.
If it is a problem for your planned use case, please consider Vertex or Integral2, they offer similar feature and way more.


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

diggumsmax said:


> As others have stated it may be best to go with the Integral 2, Vertex 2 or Arcana depending on what works best for you. Please note the HDFury has this on their website for the AVRKey. I have not expecienced one audio dropout. They increased the size of the heatsink on the newer models but once those are sold out they are not making anymore. The Vertex 2 seems to give you the most options as far as setup is concerned. Unless you need more ports.
> 
> AVRKey main page.
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> When playing 600MHz/18Gbps signal and only for such signal (4K60 4:4:4 8b or 4K60 4:2:2 12b), you might experience a very short sound dropout after 3-5 hours of use.
> New AVR-Key now shipping was tested for 7 hours without any dropout.
> If it is a problem for your planned use case, please consider Vertex or Integral2, they offer similar feature and way more.


Keep in mind according to HDFury Integral 2 is previous gen and does not allow automatic injection of LLDV (it can be done but it is manual). Here is an extract from what they said on the avforums thread (note this is before they revealed the Arcana) about enabling the LLDV trick:

On previous generation hardware (Linker, Integral2, Vertex1):
1. Select A1 custom EDID (or load any custom EDID for LLDV from this thread)
2. Enable Custom HDR injection when you play LLDV and disable it manually when you stop playback.

On newer generation hardware (Vertex2/Diva/Maestro):
1. Select A1 custom EDID or use AUTOMIX with DV CUSTOM STRING checked.
2. Enable "Use Custom HDR when input is LLDV" and that will turn ON injection automatically when LLDV is played and turn it off when LLDV playback is stopped.


----------



## USTGuy

Kdub69 said:


> Where did you buy it from? Right now I have the optoma p1 plugged into my dennon reciever Which has everything in it example ps4 which works fine, firestick 4k having issues thinking about getting a nvidia sheild or is my money better spent on the fury?


Bought mine from Amazon during a flash sale. I have it connected to Optoma's HDMI 3 port. I use Plex app from Shield to play 4K HDR files on hard drives (hard drives also connected to Shield's USB ports). I use 4K HDR 24Hz 4:2:2 settings on Shield to watch any 4K HDR content but I also manually switch to 1080p 24Hz 4:4:4 when I watch non-4K HDR stuff

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Kdub69

Hi everyone just got the nvidia shield super excitied! Looks like the handshake issue is not a problem with my av receiver and the nvidia sheild pro so far! Are there any setting I should change on the shield or on kodi for example? If anyone has any good sources they use for filelinked that have good apps/programs can you post the file code? Thanks!


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

Kdub69 said:


> Hi everyone just got the nvidia shield super excitied! Looks like the handshake issue is not a problem with my av receiver and the nvidia sheild pro so far! Are there any setting I should change on the shield or on kodi for example? If anyone has any good sources they use for filelinked that have good apps/programs can you post the file code? Thanks!


Not really, but do use the AI-Enhanced Upscaling where you can. I have it on medium and it really helps with live tv in Kodi along with just about any non 4K title.


----------



## diggumsmax

Kdub69 said:


> Hi everyone just got the nvidia shield super excitied! Looks like the handshake issue is not a problem with my av receiver and the nvidia sheild pro so far! Are there any setting I should change on the shield or on kodi for example? If anyone has any good sources they use for filelinked that have good apps/programs can you post the file code? Thanks!


Hello is one URL that has several of the same videos at different bitrates. you can just copy it to a USB drive and plug it into your shield or lay it over the network if you want to test network speeds.






Jellyfish Bitrate Test Files


A collection of .mkv video clips encoded at various bitrates; useful for testing the network streaming and playback performance of media streamers & HTPCs.




jell.yfish.us









Samples - Official Kodi Wiki







kodi.wiki





Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Kdub69

I have a denon avr can someone help me get surround sound on my shield how do I enable audio pass through on the shield I have a 7.1 system

nvm figured it out!


----------



## mttjj

Pinging @OPTOMA PM DUDE to see if he's actually still active here or not. Still haven't heard any acknowledgement of the consistent and reproducible frame drop issues for AppleTV 4K users.


----------



## Micke S

After upgrading to the latest version the other day (after being prompted to do so when using the projector), I'm experiencing LOTS of video source disconnects/reconnects. They black the screen out for about a second or two each time. Sometimes it just disconnects and show static and I have to manually reconnect (switching to another source and back). Enormously annoying. It never happened before this latest update. I'm connecting everything through an Onkyo TX-NR656 receiver (and I plan on keeping it that way, it worked fine before).

Anyone else having the same issue? EDIT: I see others do. Bummer.

Is it possible to revert to the earlier (C12) version of the firmware?


----------



## Micke S

eedwards86 said:


> Correct, I had no issues with 4k HDR when I was on C12, this started happening after the firmware update and it's constant. The video drops out or shows "snow" and what looks like digital noise every 10-15 minutes. It easily happens 4-5 times during the duration of a movie so it's basically unwatchable. I've tried this on HDMI 1 and 2 and same issues. It also happens whether i'm using my Blu Ray Player or Nvidia Shield. I'm going bypass my receiver and go direct from the projector to the Nvidia to see if it does the same thing.
> 
> Maybe it is the cable and it's now coincidence but it's driving me nuts and I don't believe there is a way to downgrade to C12 right?


Exactly the same issues here (as mentioned in my post above). This is a mess of an update - if it fixed anything (I haven't noticed) it made things worse for pretty much everyone. Just watched "American Sniper" on a Sling AirTV, cast from my phone via the Vudu app, and it has never been an issue before. Throughout this 2:12 movie it lost video signal probably TEN TIMES. A complete mess.

Going to try to downgrade to C12. I did find the file on Optoma's website with a PDF for instructions included (and yes this is the official link even though it's dropbox): CinemaX_P1_C12_USB_Update.zip


----------



## eedwards86

Micke S said:


> Exactly the same issues here (as mentioned in my post above). This is a mess of an update - if it fixed anything (I haven't noticed) it made things worse for pretty much everyone. Just watched "American Sniper" on a Sling AirTV, cast from my phone via the Vudu app, and it has never been an issue before. Throughout this 2:12 movie it lost video signal probably TEN TIMES. A complete mess.
> 
> Going to try to downgrade to C12. I did find the file on Optoma's website with a PDF for instructions included (and yes this is the official link even though it's dropbox): CinemaX_P1_C12_USB_Update.zip


I was told that you can't go back to C12. I've tested everything to get this to work and I eventually bought a short 8K HDMI cable which resolved the issue, i've now watched 4 movies with zero drop outs. Since my HDMI is through walls, I had to purchase a Fiber HDMI 2.1 to replace the one I have so waiting for that to be delivered soon, unfortunately that was the only solution. It's almost like the bandwidth requires are beyond what HDMI 2.0 can do after the update.

What HDMI cable are you using to connect your AVR to P1? If you have another HDMI cable around i'd give that a try.


----------



## Micke S

eedwards86 said:


> I was told that you can't go back to C12. I've tested everything to get this to work and I eventually bought a short 8K HDMI cable which resolved the issue, i've now watched 4 movies with zero drop outs. Since my HDMI is through walls, I had to purchase a Fiber HDMI 2.1 to replace the one I have so waiting for that to be delivered soon, unfortunately that was the only solution. It's almost like the bandwidth requires are beyond what HDMI 2.0 can do after the update.
> 
> What HDMI cable are you using to connect your AVR to P1? If you have another HDMI cable around i'd give that a try.


I don't know what kind of cable I have, probably the one that came with the projector. It hasn't mattered before.

Thanks for the info about the cable.
Got a link to the one you bought? I'll give that a try if downgrade (and/or factory reset) doesn't work.

If Optoma expects this to be the solution, they're smoking something. It should work with a standard HDMI cable just like before this update. I hope they fix it soon.


----------



## eedwards86

Micke S said:


> I don't know what kind of cable I have, probably the one that came with the projector. It hasn't mattered before.
> 
> Thanks for the info about the cable.
> Got a link to the one you bought? I'll give that a try if downgrade (and/or factory reset) doesn't work.
> 
> If Optoma expects this to be the solution, they're smoking something. It should work with a standard HDMI cable just like before this update. I hope they fix it soon.


I attempted a factory reset already and that didn't work for me. Let me know if that worked for you. My theory is that on the C12 firmware, UHD/HDR wasn't properly working so we weren't using full bandwidth in either 4:2:2 or 4:4:4 chroma so data rate was smaller. Once the new firmware was released it fixed that problem and now more data is being transferred. It only seems to be a problem when using an AVR (and not direct), so extra devices/cables in the chain may be choking the speed. All of this is just a theory because I can't point to any one thing and say that was the issue. Even the P1 works with same cable when you connect devices directly to it (bypassing the AVR). I think a fix via firmware will help and/or fix the issue in the future but based on how long this update took, I wasn't willing to wait months for their fix. I've attempted to contact Optoma with no luck and Optoma PM Dude isn't responding on here as of late, so getting them to acknowledge this issue is going to take a long time.

Another fix is to change EDID on HDMI port within P1 to 1.4, that will force HD rather than UHD. That worked 100% for me but then you can't take advance of UHD/HDR titles.

Here is the cable I purchased that currently works: Amazon.com: (16ft/ 5m) 8K HDMI CL3 in-Wall Cable Ultra HD High Speed 48Gbps Compatible with Apple TV Roku Netflix PS4 Pro Xbox One X Samsung Sony LG: Industrial & Scientific


----------



## USTGuy

When I'm in HDR mode, the options of Standard, Film, Detail, and Bright seem to do nothing. Am I the only one noticing this? The menu display clearly indicates that I'm in 4K HDR mode but those options seem to be useless 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

USTGuy said:


> When I'm in HDR mode, the options of Standard, Film, Detail, and Bright seem to do nothing. Am I the only one noticing this? The menu display clearly indicates that I'm in 4K HDR mode but those options seem to be useless
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


I notice the same thing from my shield pro. It seemed to make a bigger difference on my Xbox one X but there is barely any change at all between the HDR picture modes. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## legnaz

diggumsmax said:


> That's pretty much what I have set mine too for the HDR Sim setting. I wasn't a fan of pure motion at first but it's grown on me. I've also noticed that the color temperature looks better depending on the content I'm watching. I tend to leave it on warm but I go all the way to cool or whatever the bottom option is when watching regular TV and YouTube. Depends on the content though.
> 
> I have the Harmony hub and I was able to program it to shut it off and on properly. You have to go into the actual device settings and change the power options for the P1. It's not in activities. I also had to teach it at command it already knew. I miss the days before Logitech bought Harmony. They had dedicated pc software and you could program it to do anything. I mostly control it through home assistant via Alexa. Off topic but If you're in the home automation and have a raspberry pi than I highly recommend looking it up.
> 
> For Logitech I have it setup as two different buttons. I created one for power off. I taught the hub a new command and named it power off but it was just the power button.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


How long is your delay? I cant get it to power off.


----------



## diggumsmax

I use homeassistant so in using it as a network ADB server to send commands plus the Harmony. I noticed optima had added the Power and Off commands. I used to use PoweOn twice with a .3 Ms delay in between commands but Off handles it now. Below is from my config that homeassistant pulled in both for the P1 and Shield. 









Harmony commands


Harmony commands NVIDIA Game Console": { "commands": [ "PowerOff", "PowerOn", "0", "1", "2", "3", "4", "5", "6", "...




docs.google.com





Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Kev1000000

diggumsmax said:


> I use homeassistant so in using it as a network ADB server to send commands plus the Harmony. I noticed optima had added the Power and Off commands. I used to use PoweOn twice with a .3 Ms delay in between commands but Off handles it now. Below is from my config that homeassistant pulled in both for the P1 and Shield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harmony commands
> 
> 
> Harmony commands NVIDIA Game Console": { "commands": [ "PowerOff", "PowerOn", "0", "1", "2", "3", "4", "5", "6", "...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> docs.google.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Wait, are you saying you're controlling the P1 via Home Assistant directly or through Harmony? I would LOVE to control the P1 through Home Assistant directly.


----------



## diggumsmax

Yes, I am using the built in intergration. I also have the below in my configuration.yaml file. The entity name is remote.theater_hub. I am also running the HACS Frontend of Harmony Card . That way I can launch apps directly from the mini-media player. I bought a switchbot over a year ago. All I say was "Alexa enabled" but didn't read the fine print. You needed a 50 buck hub to do it. After I found out you could do is with hass.io (Pi fork). I loaded it up on a Pi 3. A year later and there is where I am at.

#Example configuration.yaml entry
remote:
- platform: harmony
name: theater_hub
host: xx.xx.xx.xx









New video by Josh Fisher







photos.app.goo.gl





Forgot, instructions on how to enable ADB network debugging. You know it's working when you get the pop up asking for access. Make sure to check always trust.









Android TV


Instructions on how to integrate Android TV and Fire TV devices into Home Assistant.




www.home-assistant.io


----------



## Kev1000000

Power on/off work as well through the ADB integration?

EDIT: They do! Oh man, you just made my week! Thank you so much for the info!


----------



## diggumsmax

No, ADB is for Shield only. Not sure how you added your harmony hub. I added directly to configration.yaml but you can also go to Configuratin > Integration and search or harmony. It's easier to add the below to configuration.yaml. You can substitute theater_hub for whatever you want. You can find the IP of the hub in the android/iOS app by click three lines in upper left corner > about > Versions then reboot HA. You should see a file named harmon_xxx in your config file folder after the reboot. You can then use this to create switches or scripts.In that video I shared in my previous post. The 8 icons (Netflix, Kodi, RDP, Chrome, ect), that is ADB. 



Spoiler: HA Yaml



#Example configuration.yaml entry
remote:
- platform: harmony
name: theater_hub
host: xx.xx.xx.xx

From script.yaml for turning on activity
shield_activity:
alias: Nvidia On
sequence:
- data:
activity: SHIELD TV
entity_id: remote.theater_hub

For individual device. This is how I power-off just the P1

p1_power_off:
alias: PJ Off
sequence:
- data:
command: 'Off'
delay_secs: 0.3
device: Optoma CinemaX-P1
entity_id: remote.theater_hub
service: remote.send_command
- data:
command: 'Off'
delay_secs: 0.5
device: Optoma CinemaX-P1
entity_id: remote.theater_hub
service: remote.send_command
mode: single

Sensor to keep track of Harmony Activitiy
- platform: template
sensors:
theater_hub:
value_template: '{{ states.remote.theater_hub.attributes.current_activity }}'
friendly_name: 'Harmony Activity'

Switch for turning on/off activity
- platform: template
switches:
remote:
friendly_name: 'Projector'
value_template: "{{ is_state_attr('remote.theater_hub', 'current_activity', 'SHIELD TV') }}"
turn_on:
service: remote.toggle
entity_id: remote.theater_hub
data:
activity: SHIELD TV
turn_off:
service: remote.toggle
entity_id: remote.theater_hub
data:
 activity: PowerOff


----------



## Kev1000000

diggumsmax said:


> No, ADB is for Shield only. Not sure how you added your harmony hub. I added directly to configration.yaml but you can also go to Configuratin > Integration and search or harmony. It's easier to add the below to configuration.yaml. You can substitute theater_hub for whatever you want. You can find the IP of the hub in the android/iOS app by click three lines in upper left corner > about > Versions then reboot HA. You should see a file named harmon_xxx in your config file folder after the reboot. You can then use this to create switches or scripts.In that video I shared in my previous post. The 8 icons (Netflix, Kodi, RDP, Chrome, ect), that is ADB.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: HA Yaml
> 
> 
> 
> #Example configuration.yaml entry
> remote:
> - platform: harmony
> name: theater_hub
> host: xx.xx.xx.xx
> 
> From script.yaml for turning on activity
> shield_activity:
> alias: Nvidia On
> sequence:
> - data:
> activity: SHIELD TV
> entity_id: remote.theater_hub
> 
> For individual device. This is how I power-off just the P1
> 
> p1_power_off:
> alias: PJ Off
> sequence:
> - data:
> command: 'Off'
> delay_secs: 0.3
> device: Optoma CinemaX-P1
> entity_id: remote.theater_hub
> service: remote.send_command
> - data:
> command: 'Off'
> delay_secs: 0.5
> device: Optoma CinemaX-P1
> entity_id: remote.theater_hub
> service: remote.send_command
> mode: single
> 
> Sensor to keep track of Harmony Activitiy
> - platform: template
> sensors:
> theater_hub:
> value_template: '{{ states.remote.theater_hub.attributes.current_activity }}'
> friendly_name: 'Harmony Activity'
> 
> Switch for turning on/off activity
> - platform: template
> switches:
> remote:
> friendly_name: 'Projector'
> value_template: "{{ is_state_attr('remote.theater_hub', 'current_activity', 'SHIELD TV') }}"
> turn_on:
> service: remote.toggle
> entity_id: remote.theater_hub
> data:
> activity: SHIELD TV
> turn_off:
> service: remote.toggle
> entity_id: remote.theater_hub
> data:
> activity: PowerOff


I don't have a Harmony Hub, but it turns out the standard Android TV integration into Home Assistant can turn on/off the P1 using the typical media_player.toggle service command!

I am soooo happy right now


----------



## USTGuy

A buddy of mine looked at the specs and was surprised that this UST projector is marked at 3000 lumens. He tells me that the real lumens are usually half of what the manufacturer claims, after calibration. He thinks that 1500 lumens for a $3000+ display is crazy. Any thoughts? I never thought lumen count was an issue on this projector

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Kev1000000

USTGuy said:


> A buddy of mine looked at the specs and was surprised that this UST projector is marked at 3000 lumens. He tells me that the real lumens are usually half of what the manufacturer claims, after calibration. He thinks that 1500 lumens for a $3000+ display is crazy. Any thoughts? I never thought lumen count was an issue on this projector
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


It's not an issue. It can be a light cannon if you want it to be, but all projectors won't be able to hit their rated lumens calibrated. I have the projector in my living room with an ALR screen (120") and lumens have not been an issue.


----------



## USTGuy

Kev1000000 said:


> It's not an issue. It can be a light cannon if you want it to be, but all projectors won't be able to hit their rated lumens calibrated. I have the projector in my living room with an ALR screen (120") and lumens have not been an issue.


So we can consider this to be a very bright projector in its category? I heard the UST 4K Dell and LG are about 2000 lumens brighter but really is that an issue once the display is properly calibrated?

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Kev1000000

USTGuy said:


> So we can consider this to be a very bright projector in its category? I heard the UST 4K Dell and LG are about 2000 lumens brighter but really is that an issue once the display is properly calibrated?
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


The only side by side I've seen is the P1 against the LG HU85LA, and the LG is definitely brighter. But the P1 is certainly not dim.


----------



## USTGuy

Kev1000000 said:


> The only side by side I've seen is the P1 against the LG HU85LA, and the LG is definitely brighter. But the P1 is certainly not dim.


The LG has its own weaknesses in my opinion. I still prefer the P1 overall.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Rpmartinez

USTGuy said:


> The LG has its own weaknesses in my opinion. I still prefer the P1 overall.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


What are the LG's weaknesses in your opinion?


----------



## J Bone

Has anybody really messed with game mode yet?

When off the image looks standard.









But then when activated I have a greenish tint added to the image.









As well when I turn off gaming mode I have a approximately 2 to 3 inch blank gap at the bottom of my image. 









I have to power cycle the projector to get the image back to full screen. Before I begin pulling HDMI cables and testing those out I figured I would check and see if anybody else has had a similar issue much less a resolution.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Christian Spiga

J Bone said:


> Has anybody really messed with game mode yet?
> 
> When off the image looks standard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But then when activated I have a greenish tint added to the image.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As well when I turn off gaming mode I have a approximately 2 to 3 inch blank gap at the bottom of my image.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to power cycle the projector to get the image back to full screen. Before I begin pulling HDMI cables and testing those out I figured I would check and see if anybody else has had a similar issue much less a resolution.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I have the same problem with my Xbox One X, also a lot of users had already wrote about the same issues.
OptomaDude probably now is in Holiday, we need to enjoy the summer and wait for another update


----------



## Fedder

J Bone said:


> Has anybody really messed with game mode yet?
> 
> When off the image looks standard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But then when activated I have a greenish tint added to the image.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As well when I turn off gaming mode I have a approximately 2 to 3 inch blank gap at the bottom of my image.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to power cycle the projector to get the image back to full screen. Before I begin pulling HDMI cables and testing those out I figured I would check and see if anybody else has had a similar issue much less a resolution.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


To fix the green tint I just have to change the display mode. As in its on Cinema for example I would just switch it to something else like game and then back to Cinema and the picture will be fine again. The problem is this is temporary because after a few minutes to an hour the screen will go black for a few seconds and the green will come back. It seems its bugged and I think I read about it being fixed in another update in the future but I dont remember where I read it.


----------



## MarcusD777

Rpmartinez said:


> What are the LG's weaknesses in your opinion?


Would also like to hear what you think the weaknesses of the LG compared to the P1 are? I can't think of many (besides price) as I have had both.


----------



## zekonavsforum

Hi all,

1°) About the new game mode :

I confirm the green bug can be fixed by switching display mode. I played few hours with my switch (mario kart, overcooked, mario tennis) and my PCHC (rocket league) a few days with friends, latency is no more a problem.
But when disabling game mode, sometime it adds the 2-3 inch gap on the bottom. Only solution is to power off/on the projector.

2°) I only have tested 1 UHD 4K HDR film ( "joker" ) with Kodi, at 2160p24Hz 10 bits 4:4:4 + HDR enabled, no pure motion, no game mode : 6 times during the film, the projector has made a black screen then resume on the movie ( for ~2 seconds) : very annoying ! Will try some others tests and movie.

3°) @jbone : What is your screen exactly ? 100 ? 120 ? xyscreen ?


----------



## J Bone

zekonavsforum said:


> Hi all,
> 
> 1°) About the new game mode :
> 
> I confirm the green bug can be fixed by switching display mode. I played few hours with my switch (mario kart, overcooked, mario tennis) and my PCHC (rocket league) a few days with friends, latency is no more a problem.
> But when disabling game mode, sometime it adds the 2-3 inch gap on the bottom. Only solution is to power off/on the projector.
> 
> 2°) I only have tested 1 UHD 4K HDR film ( "joker" ) with Kodi, at 2160p24Hz 10 bits 4:4:4 + HDR enabled, no pure motion, no game mode : 6 times during the film, the projector has made a black screen then resume on the movie ( for ~2 seconds) : very annoying ! Will try some others tests and movie.
> 
> 3°) @jbone : What is your screen exactly ? 100 ? 120 ? xyscreen ?


Thank you all who replied about the issues I was having on game mode. I remember the gap being mentioned but no solution being found yet. The green tint issue that appears is the only thing I don’t recall being mentioned so I’m glad you guys responded with your input.

@zekonavsforum The brand is Snowhite. It’s a 100” CLR screen. I found out about them as being mentioned in another topic on AVS forms. There’s some YouTube video examples of the types of screens they offer.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## mark.ai

J Bone said:


> Thank you all who replied about the issues I was having on game mode. I remember the gap being mentioned but no solution being found yet. The green tint issue that appears is the only thing I don’t recall being mentioned so I’m glad you guys responded with your input.


Wow that green is really noticeable in your pic! Hope it gets fixed soon ...

These were the issues mentioned for the latest firmware by the way (see Optoma P1 4k Laser UST @ CES):

*Known Issues (to be resolved in next firmware release)*
â€¢ Green tint (on some black tones) with Gaming Mode enabled.
â€¢ Gaming Mode image cropping (very bottom of image -- minor).
â€¢ Flicker with 1080p120Hz signal.
â€¢ 100% Power -- (100% power may appear darker than Dynamic Black 1, 2 and 3).
â€¢ Black image when switching source from HDMI 1, 2 or 3 to Home (Launcher) with Gaming Mode
enabled.


----------



## USTGuy

Rpmartinez said:


> What are the LG's weaknesses in your opinion?


Only 2 hdmi ports and no 3D

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## simoes

Hello everyone!

I've had the Optoma P1 Cinemax since January 2020 and two weeks ago, after applying the firmware update, it died. It was producing a fan fail error. I went through the RMA process and sent it to an authorized Optoma partner for repair. This morning, after two weeks, I find out from the Tech that the main board is dead and that it is not repairable due to a lack of parts. They indicated that they were going to recommend to Optoma that a new unit be shipped out. 

This afternoon, I contacted Optoma customer service in order to receive an update. I was informed by the rep that it looked like they were going to swap out the dead motherboard with a used motherboard from another failed unit. I immediately told them that I was not happy with that level of service and that I was not aware that Optoma used recycled parts for warranty work. This projector is barely 6 months old!! I consider this projector high end and I would expect Optoma to use new parts when completing warranty work, or when unavailable, to send out a new replacement unit. Personally, I think this is unacceptable service and I wanted to get feedback on this issue. Is this common practice? 

An Optoma rep is going to call me this afternoon with a final resolution, so I'm told. 

Thanks,


----------



## J Bone

If anybody is still looking for a UST screen, act quickly, there’s a sale on Best Buy‘s website for the Optoma 100 inch ALR screen for UST projectors.










Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Shark hunter

J Bone said:


> If anybody is still looking for a UST screen, act quickly, there’s a sale on Best Buy‘s website for the Optoma 100 inch ALR screen for UST projectors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Still deciding which ust to buy... but placed an order for this screen. Thanks.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

J Bone said:


> If anybody is still looking for a UST screen, act quickly, there’s a sale on Best Buy‘s website for the Optoma 100 inch ALR screen for UST projectors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


How do we know this is a good quality screen without any reviews or even any feedback from customers?

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Shark hunter

J Bone said:


> If anybody is still looking for a UST screen, act quickly, there’s a sale on Best Buy‘s website for the Optoma 100 inch ALR screen for UST projectors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Is 0.6 gain good?

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

Shark hunter said:


> Is 0.6 gain good?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


0.4 should be better with this type of projector 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## g4s

USTGuy said:


> 0.4 should be better with this type of projector
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Does a .4 gain ALR screen even exist?
Looks like Grandview makes some. Better black levels I guess.


----------



## eurovtec

For UST projectors, I read that if the screen gain is too high, the light will be reflected onto the ceiling, when watching in the dark.
If too Low, the brightness/contrast will be affected and the picture will not be vibrant.
It’s advisable to choose less than 1 screen gain. 
I’m using XY crystal PET of 0.8.


----------



## USTGuy

g4s said:


> Does a .4 gain ALR screen even exist?
> Looks like Grandview makes some. Better black levels I guess.


Yes. I ordered one myself. It was marked for $999 but got it for $699. I rather go with that than blindly jump on this new Optoma screen just based on price

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

eurovtec said:


> For UST projectors, I read that if the screen gain is too high, the light will be reflected onto the ceiling, when watching in the dark.
> If too Low, the brightness/contrast will be affected and the picture will not be vibrant.
> It’s advisable to choose less than 1 screen gain.
> I’m using XY crystal PET of 0.8.


0.4 won't affect the brightness/contrast due to the projector's distance from screen and provided your projector is at least in the 2500-3000 lumen

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## eurovtec

USTGuy said:


> 0.4 won't affect the brightness/contrast due to the projector's distance from screen and provided your projector is at least in the 2500-3000 lumen
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


I’m not sure the gain will affect the viewing quality during daytime. Curious if it will be affected.
Found something on screen gain. So i think for UST pj and using ALR screen, low screen gain might not impact much.
What is Screen Gain? - Screen Gain Explained

What is screen gain?


----------



## USTGuy

eurovtec said:


> I’m not sure the gain will affect the viewing quality during daytime. Curious if it will be affected.
> Found something on screen gain. So i think for UST pj and using ALR screen, low screen gain might not impact much.
> What is Screen Gain? - Screen Gain Explained
> 
> What is screen gain?


Even Optoma Guy uses Grandview Dynamique ALR UST screen. Obviously it works that good with Optoma P1

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## ProjectionHead

J Bone said:


> If anybody is still looking for a UST screen, act quickly, there’s a sale on Best Buy‘s website for the Optoma 100 inch ALR screen for UST projectors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Optoma had sent us this screen to evaluate in hopes that we would carry it. Ultimately we passed (despite the low cost) due to several defects on the surface material.
1) Oil leeching. There were oi/grease stains on the surface. We have seen this before with other low-cost UST ALR materials. The screen was assembled with gloves in a clean room and there is no way that these stains happened during assembly.

2) Various markings on the surface. There seemed to be some uniformity to these markings so it is possible that they occurred on the production line. While not 'terribly' visible when looking head-on, they were very noticeable when viewed off center.

For $500 it may be worth the gamble (as that is a low price for a screen such as this), but we decided to not carry this as we anticipate similar issues as what we saw on our sample and were not sure if this would be treated as a "defect" by Optoma for a replacement surface to be sent to customer, nor if these issues affected the entire run.

As mentioned by others, the Grandview DY3 has been our go-to, inexpensive 4k+ UST ALR screen to pair with the P1 and other USTs.

I've attached some images of the actual Optoma ALR101 screen below:


----------



## USTGuy

ProjectionHead said:


> Optoma had sent us this screen to evaluate in hopes that we would carry it. Ultimately we passed (despite the low cost) due to several defects on the surface material.
> 1) Oil leeching. There were oi/grease stains on the surface. We have seen this before with other low-cost UST ALR materials. The screen was assembled with gloves in a clean room and there is no way that these stains happened during assembly.
> 
> 2) Various markings on the surface. There seemed to be some uniformity to these markings so it is possible that they occurred on the production line. While not 'terribly' visible when looking head-on, they were very noticeable when viewed off center.
> 
> For $500 it may be worth the gamble (as that is a low price for a screen such as this), but we decided to not carry this as we anticipate similar issues as what we saw on our sample and were not sure if this would be treated as a "defect" by Optoma for a replacement surface to be sent to customer, nor if these issues affected the entire run.
> 
> As mentioned by others, the Grandview DY3 has been our go-to, inexpensive 4k+ UST ALR screen to pair with the P1 and other USTs.
> 
> I've attached some images of the actual Optoma ALR101 screen below:
> 
> View attachment 3029169
> 
> 
> View attachment 3029170


I was debating between the Elite Screens CLR, the new Optoma ALR and the Grandview. Ultimately I went with Grandview and I'm glad I did!
It costed me $699 and very happy with it. Quality check is very important!
Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Shark hunter

USTGuy said:


> I was debating between the Elite Screens CLR, the new Optoma ALR and the Grandview. Ultimately I went with Grandview and I'm glad I did!
> It costed me $699 and very happy with it. Quality check is very important!
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Is it still available for 699?. Could you provide a link?

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

Shark hunter said:


> Is it still available for 699?. Could you provide a link?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


Mine was a 90". 
ProjectorScreen.com

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

@ProjectionHead I currently have an XYScreen (Pet Crystal) ALR which has a 0.8 gain. I noticed the GrandView Dynamique Fresnal ALR screen is now available with a 1.0 gain. Does a Fresnel screen offer a significant improvement over a non Fresnel screen? If anyone has viewed the differences in real life especially when using this Optoma projector it would be great to hear your views.


----------



## calvinwalfred

I received the Optoma screen today. I'll check it out this weekend. Hopefully there are no issues. If there are issues I'll just return it to Best Buy. It was a great price on the screen so I could not pass on the deal. 


ProjectionHead said:


> Optoma had sent us this screen to evaluate in hopes that we would carry it. Ultimately we passed (despite the low cost) due to several defects on the surface material.
> 1) Oil leeching. There were oi/grease stains on the surface. We have seen this before with other low-cost UST ALR materials. The screen was assembled with gloves in a clean room and there is no way that these stains happened during assembly.
> 
> 2) Various markings on the surface. There seemed to be some uniformity to these markings so it is possible that they occurred on the production line. While not 'terribly' visible when looking head-on, they were very noticeable when viewed off center.
> 
> For $500 it may be worth the gamble (as that is a low price for a screen such as this), but we decided to not carry this as we anticipate similar issues as what we saw on our sample and were not sure if this would be treated as a "defect" by Optoma for a replacement surface to be sent to customer, nor if these issues affected the entire run.
> 
> As mentioned by others, the Grandview DY3 has been our go-to, inexpensive 4k+ UST ALR screen to pair with the P1 and other USTs.
> 
> I've attached some images of the actual Optoma ALR101 screen below:
> 
> View attachment 3029169
> 
> 
> View attachment 3029170


----------



## J Bone

calvinwalfred said:


> I received the Optoma screen today. I'll check it out this weekend. Hopefully there are no issues. If there are issues I'll just return it to Best Buy. It was a great price on the screen so I could not pass on the deal.


Just post some pics of your findings, good or bad. 

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


----------



## ProjectionHead

eurovtec said:


> For UST projectors, I read that if the screen gain is too high, the light will be reflected onto the ceiling, when watching in the dark.
> If too Low, the brightness/contrast will be affected and the picture will not be vibrant.
> It’s advisable to choose less than 1 screen gain.


That is true for a non specialized ALR screen for USTs (is using a traditional throw surface). These specialized UST ALR surfaces have a physical structure that directs light from beneath out towards audience and should not direct any towards ceiling.
They are low gain to prevent hot spotting and even what sounds to be a low 0.4 gain is totally appropriate up to 120” with the P1 in a well lit environment.
I’ve heard that claims of 0.8 gain on these types of materials is not accurate and is stated high for marketing as people are concerned about the perceived dimness of a 0.4/0.6, but I have not performed any measurements.
From reviewing samples, we did not see a discernible difference in image brightness, especially not 2x.


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## USTGuy

ProjectionHead said:


> That is true for a non specialized ALR screen for USTs (is using a traditional throw surface). These specialized UST ALR surfaces have a physical structure that directs light from beneath out towards audience and should not direct any towards ceiling.
> They are low gain to prevent hot spotting and even what sounds to be a low 0.4 gain is totally appropriate up to 120” with the P1 in a well lit environment.
> I’ve heard that claims of 0.8 gain on these types of materials is not accurate and is stated high for marketing as people are concerned about the perceived dimness of a 0.4/0.6, but I have not performed any measurements.
> From reviewing samples, we did not see a discernible difference in image brightness, especially not 2x.


I'm new to alr ust screen material. My newly purchased Grandview Dynamique seems to have half the surface darker than the other half. Am I correct in guessing that the darker area goes at the bottom while brighter area goe at the top? (see photo attached)









Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

USTGuy said:


> I'm new to alr ust screen material. My newly purchased Grandview Dynamique seems to have half the surface darker than the other half. Am I correct in guessing that the darker area goes at the bottom while brighter area goe at the top? (see photo attached)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


I think the best way to assume you have mounted it the right way is by using the torch on your phone (or a real torch!) and shine that either upwards from the bottom of the screen or downwards from the top. You should see quite clearly that light is accepted from the bottom going up (ie the angle the projector light is shining) but rejected from top to bottom.


----------



## USTGuy

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> I think the best way to assume you have mounted it the right way is by using the torch on your phone (or a real torch!) and shine that either upwards from the bottom of the screen or downwards from the top. You should see quite clearly that light is accepted from the bottom going up (ie the angle the projector light is shining) but rejected from top to bottom.


There has to be an easier way. Grandview is an excellent brand but for christ's sake they could at least put a directional arrow on their UST screens! 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## ProjectionHead

USTGuy said:


> There has to be an easier way. Grandview is an excellent brand but for christ's sake they could at least put a directional arrow on their UST screens!
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


There should have been a sticker on the back of the surface indicating which is the top or possibly an arrow sticker.

The surface should be consistently colored; it should not be dark on one half and light on the other. It is possible you are seeing it like this because it is either not perfectly level on the wall and it is upside down, hence 'reflecting' your overhead lights and making the surface appear lighter.

Have a pic with a projected image?


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## Casey_Bryson

USTGuy said:


> I'm new to alr ust screen material. My newly purchased Grandview Dynamique seems to have half the surface darker than the other half. Am I correct in guessing that the darker area goes at the bottom while brighter area goe at the top? (see photo attached)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk



Noob mistake. Easy fix though. You're not the first. So don't take it too hard.


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## diggumsmax

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> I think the best way to assume you have mounted it the right way is by using the torch on your phone (or a real torch!) and shine that either upwards from the bottom of the screen or downwards from the top. You should see quite clearly that light is accepted from the bottom going up (ie the angle the projector light is shining) but rejected from top to bottom.


This, this is all you need to do. It will be extremely obvious which way the light should hit the screen. If shining directly down, you will see a circle of light, but it will be small. The other direction where the light angle from the phone is wide and the light covers a decent size of the screen, that's the angle you want the light to come from. Not the angle where you get the tiny bright doubt. I have the same screen. It's amazing (at the right angle). Mine was clearly labeled although I found the instructions to be awful. So small I couldn't even read them. Had to scan to pdf to see anything. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

ProjectionHead said:


> There should have been a sticker on the back of the surface indicating which is the top or possibly an arrow sticker.
> 
> The surface should be consistently colored; it should not be dark on one half and light on the other. It is possible you are seeing it like this because it is either not perfectly level on the wall and it is upside down, hence 'reflecting' your overhead lights and making the surface appear lighter.
> 
> Have a pic with a projected image?


I only assembled the thing and looking at it while standing it upright in the middle of the room. The hue keeps changing depending on how I move the screen under the lights, from darker to brighter.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

diggumsmax said:


> This, this is all you need to do. It will be extremely obvious which way the light should hit the screen. If shining directly down, you will see a circle of light, but it will be small. The other direction where the light angle from the phone is wide and the light covers a decent size of the screen, that's the angle you want the light to come from. Not the angle where you get the tiny bright doubt. I have the same screen. It's amazing (at the right angle). Mine was clearly labeled although I found the instructions to be awful. So small I couldn't even read them. Had to scan to pdf to see anything.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


The screen material did not come with a mark or directional arrow. Frustrating. I tried the torch thing but I can't tell which side is which and don't want to mount it on wall and align with my Optoma P1 without first knowing that I've got the right side up 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

ProjectionHead said:


> There should have been a sticker on the back of the surface indicating which is the top or possibly an arrow sticker.
> 
> The surface should be consistently colored; it should not be dark on one half and light on the other. It is possible you are seeing it like this because it is either not perfectly level on the wall and it is upside down, hence 'reflecting' your overhead lights and making the surface appear lighter.
> 
> Have a pic with a projected image?


Pics of the screen on the floor leaning against my window curtains. Can you see how the top half looks darker than the bottom half?























Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## g4s

USTGuy said:


> The screen material did not come with a mark or directional arrow. Frustrating. I tried the torch thing but I can't tell which side is which and don't want to mount it on wall and align with my Optoma P1 without first knowing that I've got the right side up
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


To determine right side up, if positioned correctly. When looking at the screen from a low angle it should look much brighter. When looking at a downward angle it will be really dark. Your pictures would indicate to me it's upside down.


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## Ian Mclaughlin

USTGuy said:


> I tried the torch thing but I can't tell which side is which and don't want to mount it on wall and align with my Optoma P1 without first knowing that I've got the right side up
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


It should be really obvious when using your torch. One way will show lots of light the other way it will look like your torch has run out of batteries. There really is no simpler or robust way to confirm this.


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## USTGuy

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> It should be really obvious when using your torch. One way will show lots of light the other way it will look like your torch has run out of batteries. There really is no simpler or robust way to confirm this.


Do I have to turn the room lights off to run the torch test?

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## Ian Mclaughlin

USTGuy said:


> Do I have to turn the room lights off to run the torch test?
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


No honestly just get your phone torch on and shine it at an angle on the screen. If it is a ALR screen you’ll see the difference when done from top to bottom compared to bottom to too instantly. Lights dimmed down in the room will of course help though.


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## J Bone

g4s said:


> To determine right side up, if positioned correctly. When looking at the screen from a low angle it should look much brighter. When looking at a downward angle it will be really dark. Your pictures would indicate to me it's upside down.


Does the screen change color tones depending on what angle you are looking at it? Here is a picture of mine before assembly.









If so then the projector light needs to be pointed at the angle where the screen is the whitest.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## eurovtec

USTGuy said:


> Do I have to turn the room lights off to run the torch test?
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Look at this video. Go to 2:08 time To see how the torch of your mobile phone on the ALR screen. So your screen needs to reject the light when your mobile phone torch is shining on the screen only at 1 direction. thus light from torch will be dimmed.


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## USTGuy

J Bone said:


> Does the screen change color tones depending on what angle you are looking at it? Here is a picture of mine before assembly.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> If so then the projector light needs to be pointed at the angle where the screen is the whitest.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Yes mine looks just like that before being mounted on wall

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## USTGuy

eurovtec said:


> Look at this video. Go to 2:08 time To see how the torch of your mobile phone on the ALR screen.


You guys are great. Very happy to be part of this community. I'm not new to UST projectors but I'm a total noob when it comes to UST screens!

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## J Bone

USTGuy said:


> You guys are great. Very happy to be part of this community. I'm not new to UST projectors but I'm a total noob when it comes to UST screens!
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Same feeling my friend. This place is the best source of feedback I found in many years of searching so I personally appreciate everybody’s input as well.

I don’t know about anybody else but I am more of a visual person to learn these things. So if anybody has problems try to post pics of the details so we can get the “full picture”. (Pun intended)


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## tetsuo31337

USTGuy said:


> You guys are great. Very happy to be part of this community. I'm not new to UST projectors but I'm a total noob when it comes to UST screens!
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


I appreciate you asking the question first, USTGuy (and everybody else for the responses)! I just ordered the CinemaX Pro and this same Grandview screen. I'm sure I'll run into the exact same speedbumps you did. If you can, please post any tips or surprises you run into when mounting it to the wall. Not looking forward to that part...


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## ProjectionHead

USTGuy said:


> Pics of the screen on the floor leaning against my window curtains. Can you see how the top half looks darker than the bottom half?
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> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


That appears to be because it is angled. What you will see with these types of screens is that the "color" of it will change as you angle it. be leaning it forward/backwards you will "see" it go from white to black. It has to do with the structure of the "ridges" that negate the overhead light and direct the light from below.


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## USTGuy

tetsuo31337 said:


> I appreciate you asking the question first, USTGuy (and everybody else for the responses)! I just ordered the CinemaX Pro and this same Grandview screen. I'm sure I'll run into the exact same speedbumps you did. If you can, please post any tips or surprises you run into when mounting it to the wall. Not looking forward to that part...


Hope you'll enjoy your Optoma P1 as much as I have! I think in my case they forgot to put the arrow sign on the back of my screen material by accident. But the flashlight trick works like a charm, especially if you turn room lights off and you can clearly see which side of the screen reflects more light.
I will mount it to wall today and will post pictures for sure!

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

ProjectionHead said:


> That appears to be because it is angled. What you will see with these types of screens is that the "color" of it will change as you angle it. be leaning it forward/backwards you will "see" it go from white to black. It has to do with the structure of the "ridges" that negate the overhead light and direct the light from below.


Yes, I was fooled into thinking the screen was half grey and half white but in reality the surface will change hue depending on its angle. This is all new to me as I'm used to generic white screen.
Like I said in my previous post, I think they forgot to put directional arrow in the back of my screen and that's why it took me a while to figure things out LOL

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## dinesh26uk

Having the same issues as some others regarding the signal cutting out every 45 mins or so from HDMI input (source is Xbox one S) since C14.3, no issues prior to update. 

Optimadude, any info of whether this will be fixed soon?


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## USTGuy

Finally assembled + mounted my brand new Grandview Dynamique. Wow! First thing that caught my attention was the lower black levels compared to my white matte fixed frame screen. But while the blacks are deeper the bright highlights pop more and colors are punchier. I thought I had to mess with my Optoma settings after replacing screen but to my surprise my custom settings worked perfect. This is awesome 






























Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## oneil50

dinesh26uk said:


> Having the same issues as some others regarding the signal cutting out every 45 mins or so from HDMI input (source is Xbox one S) since C14.3, no issues prior to update.
> 
> Optimadude, any info of whether this will be fixed soon?


Having same problem only with 4K 60hz content. 
Nvidia shield + 10bit 4.2.0 hdmi + 60 Hz = Few cutting 
Nvidia shield + 12bit 4.2.2 hdmi + 60 Hz = More cutting
UB420 + 12 bit 4.4.4 + 24Hz = Any cutting

All my HDMI cable are 18 gbit/s and there is no problem with old firmware.


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## diggumsmax

USTGuy said:


> Finally assembled + mounted my brand new Grandview Dynamique. Wow! First thing that caught my attention was the lower black levels compared to my white matte fixed frame screen. But while the blacks are deeper the bright highlights pop more and colors are punchier. I thought I had to mess with my Optoma settings after replacing screen but to my surprise my custom settings worked perfect. This is awesome
> 
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> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Looks great! I have the same screen and I couldn't be happier with my Grandview dynamique, although I wish I had waited a bit as they have come down in price but that's tech. As soon as it's used once, it's never worth what you paid for it, and you never know when the price is going to drop. 

Performance wise I'm still amazed at it's performance. Especially considering my current living scenerio. Whitesh tile floors, tanish/white walls. A huge window in the main room. Pretty much a total 180 of the batcave like environment I previously had. Picture looks amazing regardless the time of day. Have a 60 watt bulb maybe 8 inches from the top side of the screen, barely noticeable when I turn it on. But with the lights out and good HDR material, it looks absolutely amazing. The colors really do pop more, even with the .4 gain due to the P1's brightness. I know contrast ratio is always the main selling point but you really do want a ALR screen for any UST projector IMO. My ceiling looked like a strobe light with my 1.0/1.1 gain Stewart Firehawk with no ALR (white ceiling so to be expected). The way the light is reflected directly back at the user really makes a huge difference. It's a game changer IMO. Been doing standard throw for 15+ years and couldn't be happier moving to UST with ALR. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## USTGuy

diggumsmax said:


> Looks great! I have the same screen and I couldn't be happier with my Grandview dynamique, although I wish I had waited a bit as they have come down in price but that's tech. As soon as it's used once, it's never worth what you paid for it, and you never know when the price is going to drop.
> 
> Performance wise I'm still amazed at it's performance. Especially considering my current living scenerio. Whitesh tile floors, tanish/white walls. A huge window in the main room. Pretty much a total 180 of the batcave like environment I previously had. Picture looks amazing regardless the time of day. Have a 60 watt bulb maybe 8 inches from the top side of the screen, barely noticeable when I turn it on. But with the lights out and good HDR material, it looks absolutely amazing. The colors really do pop more, even with the .4 gain due to the P1's brightness. I know contrast ratio is always the main selling point but you really do want a ALR screen for any UST projector IMO. My ceiling looked like a strobe light with my 1.0/1.1 gain Stewart Firehawk with no ALR (white ceiling so to be expected). The way the light is reflected directly back at the user really makes a huge difference. It's a game changer IMO. Been doing standard throw for 15+ years and couldn't be happier moving to UST with ALR.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


And to think that some people were advising me not to get Grandview because 0.4 gain was going to make picture too dark. Truth is not only picture is brighter but I didn't even have to tweak my picture settings at all. The same picture settings that worked with my white screen now work even better with this screen. I'm amazed that we don't have as many reviews and demos out there about this screen as we do with Elite Screens or Vividstorm!

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## diggumsmax

USTGuy said:


> And to think that some people were advising me not to get Grandview because 0.4 gain was going to make picture too dark. Truth is not only picture is brighter but I didn't even have to tweak my picture settings at all. The same picture settings that worked with my white screen now work even better with this screen. I'm amazed that we don't have as many reviews and demos out there about this screen as we do with Elite Screens or Vividstorm!
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


I went through this. I probably spent 20 times as much research on UST ALR screens then the actual UST PJ. It was always between the P1 and LG. When LG announced their price. It was 100% Optima. I think the dual (maybe triple) laser engine so their is no color wheel really added to the price. Someone at some point that it uses yellow phosphorus for one of the colors. I'm interested in this showing up in other DLP PJs but it will take time for the price to come down. I believe that is also why it can throw a bigger image at a shorter distance and have the bottom of the image lower than the P1 but I could be mistaken. 

I did a lot of research on lectengulare based vs Fresnel. Fresnel really wasn't an option due to shipping as fresnel is hard screen so shipping is a nightmare. XY had one at a decent price. I talked to a few vendors via email and none of them would ship just one, plus it would of been a huge headache if there were other issues. Pretty much every other ALR screen is lectengulare based. 

I went with lectengulare due to better viewing angles, no glare, and potential hotspotting. The glare was probably the biggest factor. I have always liked the non glare you get from a regular screen. Easier on the eyes. Fresnel appears to win hands down for light rejection with a 1.0 gain but really seems to be isolated to big businesses for presentations in a narrow board room with all lights at 100%. They were also limited to 100"s at the time. DNY says they can make them in any size now but DNY is way out of my personal price range.

I had a few questions so I emailed projectortscreen as I had two or three questions. Got a call back from projectorhead, ended up talking for a good 30 to 45 minutes. I hadn't even considered the Grandview before this. There were three reasons I chose Grandview. The one I will post is the fact that projectorhead, at the time, said that he was pairing the LG with the Grandview. The other two reasons I won't post due to it being a one on one discussion about UST ALR technology in general. The Elite Aeon CLR was cheaper, but it can't resolve a 4k pixel. This was also another deciding factor. This would of messed with overall sharpness. Some will say this doesn't matter but to me, it was a selling point even though the P1 is faux 4K. It still produces UHD resolution with some mirror trickery. That and the sony is a bit out of my league, which I think is still the only true 4K UST out there. 

I can't speak highly enough about my purchasing experience as I got a great deal on the P1 and ALR screen combo. Email updates directly from projectorhead, like the stupid last minute tariff hike (not Optimo's fault or projectotscreen, nothing they could do). Like a lot of people I order a lot of stuff from amazon so it was just a much better purchasing experience, especially considering that it's not cheap getting both at once.

Grandview make a great product, they just seem terrible at marketing. I believe projectorhead as also indicated they make the material for some other ALR screens sold under different manufacturers names. That may be their main source of revenue. There are probably three videos on their YouTube channel. I remember one showing the quality control for each screen as one was made and it was outstanding. Outside of that there are two or three very short demos that aren't super helpful or really show of what the DY3 can do. Heck, they night of announced a DY4 for all I know. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## diggumsmax

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> Keep in mind according to HDFury Integral 2 is previous gen and does not allow automatic injection of LLDV (it can be done but it is manual). Here is an extract from what they said on the avforums thread (note this is before they revealed the Arcana) about enabling the LLDV trick:
> 
> On previous generation hardware (Linker, Integral2, Vertex1):
> 1. Select A1 custom EDID (or load any custom EDID for LLDV from this thread)
> 2. Enable Custom HDR injection when you play LLDV and disable it manually when you stop playback.
> 
> On newer generation hardware (Vertex2/Diva/Maestro):
> 1. Select A1 custom EDID or use AUTOMIX with DV CUSTOM STRING checked.
> 2. Enable "Use Custom HDR when input is LLDV" and that will turn ON injection automatically when LLDV is played and turn it off when LLDV playback is stopped.


I'm more interested in this 



. This seems like a great workaround for Dolby Vision since the P1 can't do Dolby Vision. Manual injection sounds like it would require some sort of file for each Dolby Vision HDR source which would be a headache. I'm still amazed that just the hdfury audio extractor resolved all my video dropout issues completely. The cheaper HDMI audio extractor/switch had some major dropout issues and would only bitstream the audio to my non ARC receiver at 60hz, even after the latest update. No sound at all at 24hz. I'm going to have to do some research although the vertex 2 is pricey my hdfury audio extractor HDFury KEY) is roughly a month old and in perfect condition so I could sell it on here and still get close to what I paid for it new. That, and the Diva looks very well built. Really like that you have an OCD directly on the top of the Diva, an on screen OCD or that you can control it with software via a browser so you have multiple ways to handle settings. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## USTGuy

diggumsmax said:


> I went through this. I probably spent 20 times as much research on UST ALR screens then the actual UST PJ. It was always between the P1 and LG. When LG announced their price. It was 100% Optima. I think the dual (maybe triple) laser engine so their is no color wheel really added to the price. Someone at some point that it uses yellow phosphorus for one of the colors. I'm interested in this showing up in other DLP PJs but it will take time for the price to come down. I believe that is also why it can throw a bigger image at a shorter distance and have the bottom of the image lower than the P1 but I could be mistaken.
> 
> I did a lot of research on lectengulare based vs Fresnel. Fresnel really wasn't an option due to shipping as fresnel is hard screen so shipping is a nightmare. XY had one at a decent price. I talked to a few vendors via email and none of them would ship just one, plus it would of been a huge headache if there were other issues. Pretty much every other ALR screen is lectengulare based.
> 
> I went with lectengulare due to better viewing angles, no glare, and potential hotspotting. The glare was probably the biggest factor. I have always liked the non glare you get from a regular screen. Easier on the eyes. Fresnel appears to win hands down for light rejection with a 1.0 gain but really seems to be isolated to big businesses for presentations in a narrow board room with all lights at 100%. They were also limited to 100"s at the time. DNY says they can make them in any size now but DNY is way out of my personal price range.
> 
> I had a few questions so I emailed projectortscreen as I had two or three questions. Got a call back from projectorhead, ended up talking for a good 30 to 45 minutes. I hadn't even considered the Grandview before this. There were three reasons I chose Grandview. The one I will post is the fact that projectorhead, at the time, said that he was pairing the LG with the Grandview. The other two reasons I won't post due to it being a one on one discussion about UST ALR technology in general. The Elite Aeon CLR was cheaper, but it can't resolve a 4k pixel. This was also another deciding factor. This would of messed with overall sharpness. Some will say this doesn't matter but to me, it was a selling point even though the P1 is faux 4K. It still produces UHD resolution with some mirror trickery. That and the sony is a bit out of my league, which I think is still the only true 4K UST out there.
> 
> I can't speak highly enough about my purchasing experience as I got a great deal on the P1 and ALR screen combo. Email updates directly from projectorhead, like the stupid last minute tariff hike (not Optimo's fault or projectotscreen, nothing they could do). Like a lot of people I order a lot of stuff from amazon so it was just a much better purchasing experience, especially considering that it's not cheap getting both at once.
> 
> Grandview make a great product, they just seem terrible at marketing. I believe projectorhead as also indicated they make the material for some other ALR screens sold under different manufacturers names. That may be their main source of revenue. There are probably three videos on their YouTube channel. I remember one showing the quality control for each screen as one was made and it was outstanding. Outside of that there are two or three very short demos that aren't super helpful or really show of what the DY3 can do. Heck, they night of announced a DY4 for all I know.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


I posted a separate thread about me contacting ProjectorScreen and being advised against Elite Screens CLR if pairing with a 4K projector. Not sure how much truth is in that statement but regardless I'm happy I went with Grandview. Just strange that there are so few reviews or even solid advertising about the Grandview Dynamique as compared to other brands!

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## Ian Mclaughlin

diggumsmax said:


> I'm more interested in this
> 
> 
> 
> . This seems like a great workaround for Dolby Vision since the P1 can't do Dolby Vision. Manual injection sounds like it would require some sort of file for each Dolby Vision HDR source which would be a headache. I'm still amazed that just the hdfury audio extractor resolved all my video dropout issues completely. The cheaper HDMI audio extractor/switch had some major dropout issues and would only bitstream the audio to my non ARC receiver at 60hz, even after the latest update. No sound at all at 24hz. I'm going to have to do some research although the vertex 2 is pricey my hdfury audio extractor HDFury KEY) is roughly a month old and in perfect condition so I could sell it on here and still get close to what I paid for it new. That, and the Diva looks very well built. Really like that you have an OCD directly on the top of the Diva, an on screen OCD or that you can control it with software via a browser so you have multiple ways to handle settings.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


I ended up pre ordering the HDFury Arcana: https://www.hdfury.eu/shop/hdfuryarcana/ specifically to do what is mentioned in the YouTube video. It’s the cheapest device that will automatically do LLDV..though I’ll have to wait until November to test it out! If it can improve the picture by even a tiny bit that’s enough to make it worthwhile for me as I do tend to watch a lot of Netflix shows that are in Dolby Vision via Apple TV.


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## Ian Mclaughlin

USTGuy said:


> I posted a separate thread about me contacting ProjectorScreen and being advised against Elite Screens CLR if pairing with a 4K projector. Not sure how much truth is in that statement but regardless I'm happy I went with Grandview. Just strange that there are so few reviews or even solid advertising about the Grandview Dynamique as compared to other brands!
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


It’s a difficult one to compare. I have XYScreens PET Crystal and a fair few others do and I have not read one bad word against it, I am more than happy with mine. I think it would be great to see a head to head with the Grandview Dynamique to see if it’s worth the additional cost over XYScreens. There is a poster on the uk site who had the Grandview Dynamique Fresnal screen:Grandview Dynamique ALR Screen with Fresnel Lens who has said that he has already had the screen replaced due to it getting indentations and his second one has developed the same problem so is in contact again with the distributor to see what to do. Maybe it’s just the Fresnal one with issues but that report put me off GrandView screens.


----------



## USTGuy

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> It’s a difficult one to compare. I have XYScreens PET Crystal and a fair few others do and I have not read one bad word against it, I am more than happy with mine. I think it would be great to see a head to head with the Grandview Dynamique to see if it’s worth the additional cost over XYScreens. There is a poster on the uk site who had the Grandview Dynamique Fresnal screen:Grandview Dynamique ALR Screen with Fresnel Lens who has said that he has already had the screen replaced due to it getting indentations and his second one has developed the same problem so is in contact again with the distributor to see what to do. Maybe it’s just the Fresnal one with issues but that report put me off GrandView screens.


Not saying that this is the case, but indentations are often the results of not assembling the screen material even and properly. It happened to me too.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Micke S

eedwards86 said:


> I attempted a factory reset already and that didn't work for me. Let me know if that worked for you. My theory is that on the C12 firmware, UHD/HDR wasn't properly working so we weren't using full bandwidth in either 4:2:2 or 4:4:4 chroma so data rate was smaller. Once the new firmware was released it fixed that problem and now more data is being transferred. It only seems to be a problem when using an AVR (and not direct), so extra devices/cables in the chain may be choking the speed. All of this is just a theory because I can't point to any one thing and say that was the issue. Even the P1 works with same cable when you connect devices directly to it (bypassing the AVR). I think a fix via firmware will help and/or fix the issue in the future but based on how long this update took, I wasn't willing to wait months for their fix. I've attempted to contact Optoma with no luck and Optoma PM Dude isn't responding on here as of late, so getting them to acknowledge this issue is going to take a long time.
> 
> Another fix is to change EDID on HDMI port within P1 to 1.4, that will force HD rather than UHD. That worked 100% for me but then you can't take advance of UHD/HDR titles.
> 
> Here is the cable I purchased that currently works: Amazon.com: (16ft/ 5m) 8K HDMI CL3 in-Wall Cable Ultra HD High Speed 48Gbps Compatible with Apple TV Roku Netflix PS4 Pro Xbox One X Samsung Sony LG: Industrial & Scientific


Just to update on this: I tried a reset, didn't fix anything on my projector either, then bought the same cable you have (except shorter), and everything works fine now! Thanks for the tip! Again, I had no idea the HDMI cable mattered... I hope they ship with one that works now.


----------



## oneil50

I'm using Nvidia Shield 2017, I see a screen difference between normal HDR viewing and HDR viewing after switching EDID 1.4 and 2.0.
You can see the result here :


The top screen is darker and when i switch HDR mode Cinema, Bright.... There is no effect.
The bottom screen is more powerfull and it's same on my UB420 BD player. When i switch HDR mode Cinema, Bright : It Works.

I use my calibrated x-rite, I found 6FTL with darker screen and 11FTL with powerfull screen at 50% grey brigntess. (28FTL @100% for these two)
I tried with my Amazon Fire stick 4k and Xiaomi mi Box there is any problem. Seems problem is only with Nvidia shield.

How to fix it ? It's same with Nvidia Sheild 2019 stick ?


----------



## USTGuy

I actually prefer the top picture 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## diggumsmax

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> I ended up pre ordering the HDFury Arcana: https://www.hdfury.eu/shop/hdfuryarcana/ specifically to do what is mentioned in the YouTube video. It’s the cheapest device that will automatically do LLDV..though I’ll have to wait until November to test it out! If it can improve the picture by even a tiny bit that’s enough to make it worthwhile for me as I do tend to watch a lot of Netflix shows that are in Dolby Vision via Apple TV.


I would pre-order that right now but the fact that it's tied to ARC/eARC it won't work with my receiver. It has no ARC port of any kind so I would have to use fiber for audio. Plus, the P1 is only ARC, which right now is limited to DD+ so I would be taking a hit in the audio department before seeing if this trick/hack for LLDV works and the picture quality improves for Dolby Vision vs HDR 10 content by remapping the color tones. I do think HDFury makes a great product even though I've only got the KEY model to get Dolby true HD and DTS MA to my non ARC receiver. I do hope Optima can get higher bitrate over ARC. It can apparently be done (even Atmos) but there are very few display makers going backwards to add that functionality. I don't know if eARC is a requirement for HDMI 2.1 or not. Even with the limited EDID functions of the key module, I got the bonus of fixing dropouts and faster switching from SDR to HDR and vice versa, so I'm happy. That's what got me interested in this LLDV trick. It really tricks the output device into thinking the P1 is capable of Dolby Vision even though it's not. If I hadn't used one of thier products I would have most likely disregarded that entire post. I'm just not sure if it would benefit the P1 as much as an LG OLED or something comparable that doesn't do Dolby Vision. That's another factor. I can tell from that video that the Diva is very well designed though. OCDs everywhere. Hopefully they will come out with an updated key model that does LLDV injection. I read a bit about doing it manually but sounds like too much of a hassle, at least for me. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## eedwards86

Micke S said:


> Just to update on this: I tried a reset, didn't fix anything on my projector either, then bought the same cable you have (except shorter), and everything works fine now! Thanks for the tip! Again, I had no idea the HDMI cable mattered... I hope they ship with one that works now.


Glad that's all working for you now. New cable fixed a lot of my issues but it still sometimes fails. I did find a solution that works 100% of the time. Been doing this for almost two weeks and haven't had a single issue. I have to turn the projector on last meaning I turn on my devices, my AVR and then my projector and wait about 1 minute between each. When I do that in that specific order it works fantastic. The moment I turn a device on after the projector is on, the issues start again. If anyone else is still having this problem I recommend that to see if it works for you. I think the HDMI handshake resolves correctly with the P1 using this method.


----------



## eurovtec

eedwards86 said:


> Glad that's all working for you now. New cable fixed a lot of my issues but it still sometimes fails. I did find a solution that works 100% of the time. Been doing this for almost two weeks and haven't had a single issue. I have to turn the projector on last meaning I turn on my devices, my AVR and then my projector and wait about 1 minute between each. When I do that in that specific order it works fantastic. The moment I turn a device on after the projector is on, the issues start again. If anyone else is still having this problem I recommend that to see if it works for you. I think the HDMI handshake resolves correctly with the P1 using this method.


I turn on my HTPC first, then my PJ. 
My Denon AVR turns on by itself within a min after i turn on the PJ.


----------



## USTGuy

Is it just me or contrast level in HDR mode seems too high? I had to lower contrast to -20 just to regain some detail in the bright highlights of a scene. At default contrast most bright highlights seem overblown

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## ProjectionHead

diggumsmax said:


> I went through this. I probably spent 20 times as much research on UST ALR screens then the actual UST PJ. It was always between the P1 and LG. When LG announced their price. It was 100% Optima. I think the dual (maybe triple) laser engine so their is no color wheel really added to the price. Someone at some point that it uses yellow phosphorus for one of the colors. I'm interested in this showing up in other DLP PJs but it will take time for the price to come down. I believe that is also why it can throw a bigger image at a shorter distance and have the bottom of the image lower than the P1 but I could be mistaken.
> 
> I did a lot of research on lectengulare based vs Fresnel. Fresnel really wasn't an option due to shipping as fresnel is hard screen so shipping is a nightmare. XY had one at a decent price. I talked to a few vendors via email and none of them would ship just one, plus it would of been a huge headache if there were other issues. Pretty much every other ALR screen is lectengulare based.
> 
> I went with lectengulare due to better viewing angles, no glare, and potential hotspotting. The glare was probably the biggest factor. I have always liked the non glare you get from a regular screen. Easier on the eyes. Fresnel appears to win hands down for light rejection with a 1.0 gain but really seems to be isolated to big businesses for presentations in a narrow board room with all lights at 100%. They were also limited to 100"s at the time. DNY says they can make them in any size now but DNY is way out of my personal price range.
> 
> I had a few questions so I emailed projectortscreen as I had two or three questions. Got a call back from projectorhead, ended up talking for a good 30 to 45 minutes. I hadn't even considered the Grandview before this. There were three reasons I chose Grandview. The one I will post is the fact that projectorhead, at the time, said that he was pairing the LG with the Grandview. The other two reasons I won't post due to it being a one on one discussion about UST ALR technology in general. The Elite Aeon CLR was cheaper, but it can't resolve a 4k pixel. This was also another deciding factor. This would of messed with overall sharpness. Some will say this doesn't matter but to me, it was a selling point even though the P1 is faux 4K. It still produces UHD resolution with some mirror trickery. That and the sony is a bit out of my league, which I think is still the only true 4K UST out there.
> 
> I can't speak highly enough about my purchasing experience as I got a great deal on the P1 and ALR screen combo. Email updates directly from projectorhead, like the stupid last minute tariff hike (not Optimo's fault or projectotscreen, nothing they could do). Like a lot of people I order a lot of stuff from amazon so it was just a much better purchasing experience, especially considering that it's not cheap getting both at once.
> 
> Grandview make a great product, they just seem terrible at marketing. I believe projectorhead as also indicated they make the material for some other ALR screens sold under different manufacturers names. That may be their main source of revenue. There are probably three videos on their YouTube channel. I remember one showing the quality control for each screen as one was made and it was outstanding. Outside of that there are two or three very short demos that aren't super helpful or really show of what the DY3 can do. Heck, they night of announced a DY4 for all I know.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


My name is ProjectionHead! lol


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

USTGuy said:


> Is it just me or contrast level in HDR mode seems too high? I had to lower contrast to -20 just to regain some detail in the bright highlights of a scene. At default contrast most bright highlights seem overblown
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


I had mine professionally calibrated and in particular with HDR I heard him huffing and puffing a lot about how Optoma had done certain things. Contrast for me though is 11, of course everyone’s settings will be different but -20 sounds very low.


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## USTGuy

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> I had mine professionally calibrated and in particular with HDR I heard him huffing and puffing a lot about how Optoma had done certain things. Contrast for me though is 11, of course everyone’s settings will be different but -20 sounds very low.


I lose a lot of details in bright highlights with contrast at 11. Actually I would have to set contrast to even lower than -20 but I had to find a middle ground between scooping out details from bright areas while keeping overall picture from turning too dim

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## diggumsmax

ProjectionHead said:


> My name is ProjectionHead! lol


I butcher names (and the english language in general) on a daily basis. Off topic but if you introduce me to five people that I've never met before, I only remember the fifth person's name. Then as I trie to remember the other four people's names I'll forget the fifth person's name. Especially if it happens to be a particularly attractive woman without a wedding ring. So, it's kind of a curse in some ways as women tend to not like it when you do not remember their name for some stupid, completely unknown reason. 

At the same time I can type out complex CLI (terminal) commands without even thinking twice about it for various IT related purposes for work. The brain is an odd thing. 

Back on topic, I had brought my P1 with me on a trip out of town and threw it up on an almost white wall. It was horrendous. Not because of the P1, because any imperfection on the wall was magnified by 100 percent. Every minor imperfection was clearly noticable, plus ones you didn't even see before.

I know some people have said you can do UST on a wall with paint but I hope you got some skills in being able to get a surface to be completely smooth with zero imperfections at 100"s +. Not something I could do. Seems like it would be extremely difficult unless you know someone capable or do that type of work for a living or hobby. Not saying it's impossible bit does seem like it would be difficult. It would have to be "true level" 

Some graphic language but this has always made me think about setting up projectors in general. Especially UST on a wall. 





Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## Shark hunter

Looking to pick either P1 or HU85LA. I do 30 % gaming on consoles. 

I dont play competitive multi-player games though. How is the input lag in P1. ? Is it manageable if I don't use keystone correction and turn off all those additional video processing. I do see conflicting reviews on Amazon.


Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


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## Mikkle

Shark hunter said:


> Looking to pick either P1 or HU85LA. I do 30 % gaming on consoles.
> 
> I dont play competitive multi-player games though. How is the input lag in P1. ? Is it manageable if I don't use keystone correction and turn off all those additional video processing. I do see conflicting reviews on Amazon.


It entirely depends on the type of game. I played through most of Spiderman on PS4 Pro and it looked and played amazing. This was before the latest update, back when the lag was measured around 120 ms. I imagine it would be even better now. Still, some game types are much more sensitive to lag than others. It would probably be challenging to play twitch platformers like Super Meat Boy or Hollow Knight, for example, even with the improved response time in the latest update.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Mikkle said:


> It entirely depends on the type of game. I played through most of Spiderman on PS4 Pro and it looked and played amazing. This was before the latest update, back when the lag was measured around 120 ms. I imagine it would be even better now. Still, some game types are much more sensitive to lag than others. It would probably be challenging to play twitch platformers like Super Meat Boy or Hollow Knight, for example, even with the improved response time in the latest update.


You're right about that. I'm about 28hrs into Hollow Knight and while it's a very challenging game on it's own the fact that I don't notice the lag and am able to play through it @ 4K is proof positive that a 0.47 DLP chip (rooted Fengmi 4K 2019 in my case) can have low enough lag to play even the most challenging games--I'm in my mid 40's mind you so I've got enough lag to deal with without worrying about a projector adding to it lol


----------



## diggumsmax

Shark hunter said:


> Looking to pick either P1 or HU85LA. I do 30 % gaming on consoles.
> 
> I dont play competitive multi-player games though. How is the input lag in P1. ? Is it manageable if I don't use keystone correction and turn off all those additional video processing. I do see conflicting reviews on Amazon.
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


I don't think there is a single UST DLP projector that does under 50ms. Some other manufacturers advertise below that but the tests from various reviewers tends to land in the 70 to 100 plus millisecond range. I don't know why. The Epson claims 35ms but has a longer throw distance than any DLP currently out. With the way UST works it has to manually "distort" The picture to get the desired results for some reason. That or something else as I've researched them all and I haven't seen one under 50ms when tested from various YouTube videos. 

I'm a casual gamer so this is not an issue for me but if you play with a keyboard and mouse multiplayer fast paced FPS the experience would probably be not be good. I know optoma has a short throw gaming PJ with around 3ms lag. I think it needs just over three feet for a hundred inches but I could be wrong. There is something about UST that causes more lag than standard or short throw PJ. When playing Doom 3 on my Xbox One X I barely notice any lag but I'm also a casual gamer but I have zero issues with the solo campaign and Doom 3 is very fast paced, even solo. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## Casey_Bryson

diggumsmax said:


> I don't think there is a single UST DLP projector that does under 50ms. Some other manufacturers advertise below that but the tests from various reviewers tends to land in the 70 to 100 plus millisecond range. I don't know why. The Epson claims 35ms but has a longer throw distance than any DLP currently out. With the way UST works it has to manually "distort" The picture to get the desired results for some reason. That or something else as I've researched them all and I haven't seen one under 50ms when tested from various YouTube videos.
> 
> I'm a casual gamer so this is not an issue for me but if you play with a keyboard and mouse multiplayer fast paced FPS the experience would probably be not be good. I know optoma has a short throw gaming PJ with around 3ms lag. I think it needs just over three feet for a hundred inches but I could be wrong. There is something about UST that causes more lag than standard or short throw PJ. When playing Doom 3 on my Xbox One X I barely notice any lag but I'm also a casual gamer but I have zero issues with the solo campaign and Doom 3 is very fast paced, even solo.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk



Oh really?



Test Fengmi 4K : l’avis de Grégory – – Le Blog de PHC –



"Input lag:

Big surprise, in Game mode, the Fengmi reaches 32.7 ms, a much better result than that of the Xiaomi 4K and its 92 ms. Friends and gamer readers who are looking for a projector for your fiery frag games , the Fengmi 4K is open to you."


----------



## Shark hunter

Casey_Bryson said:


> Oh really?
> 
> 
> 
> Test Fengmi 4K : l’avis de Grégory – – Le Blog de PHC –
> 
> 
> 
> "Input lag:
> 
> Big surprise, in Game mode, the Fengmi reaches 32.7 ms, a much better result than that of the Xiaomi 4K and its 92 ms. Friends and gamer readers who are looking for a projector for your fiery frag games , the Fengmi 4K is open to you."


The price looks interesting. Does any retailer sell in USA with manufacturer warranty like vava?.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


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## demented_uk

USTGuy said:


> Not saying that this is the case, but indentations are often the results of not assembling the screen material even and properly. It happened to me too.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


I am the poster Ian is referring to, and am now on my second fresnal screen from Grandview. Both have developed indentations, which are unfortunately highlighted by the Optoma UST projector. I’ve taken the screen off and have reassembled over six times now, even adding new springs, but it doesn’t resolve the problem. It’s frustrating as the Image quality provided by the screen is excellent, just annoying that indentations develop and get gradually worse. Grandview have been very helpful and am awaiting a further response.


----------



## diggumsmax

demented_uk said:


> I am the poster Ian is referring to, and am now on my second fresnal screen from Grandview. Both have developed indentations, which are unfortunately highlighted by the Optoma UST projector. I’ve taken the screen off and have reassembled over six times now, even adding new springs, but it doesn’t resolve the problem. It’s frustrating as the Image quality provided by the screen is excellent, just annoying that indentations develop and get gradually worse. Grandview have been very helpful and am awaiting a further response.


Fresnel screens are hard screen. I think you've got a lectengulare based screen. The disadvantage is the obvious shipping. The advantage is once you got it out of the box all you have to do is hang it on the wall. They cannot make rollable Fresnel material due to the way the technology work. What is the Grandview model number? https://www.dnp-screens.com/media/2540/specsheet_supernova_st.pdf

This can be confirmed by looking at the shipping dimensions. This is DNP but that doesn't change the technology. 


Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## clrad

Not sure if this is the best place to post but I'm about to pull the trigger on one of these and just had a few nagging questions:

Is it worth getting renewed for ~20% savings?
I'm going with a mounted ALR screen. Is it worth paying 50 - 100% more for the Grandview Dynamique vs the PET Crystal from XY Screens?
Am I able to place a center channel speaker directly behind and above the projector without affecting the image (Speaker is ~6" tall)?

Thanks!


----------



## diggumsmax

Casey_Bryson said:


> Oh really?
> 
> 
> 
> Test Fengmi 4K : l’avis de Grégory – – Le Blog de PHC –
> 
> 
> 
> "Input lag:
> 
> Big surprise, in Game mode, the Fengmi reaches 32.7 ms, a much better result than that of the Xiaomi 4K and its 92 ms. Friends and gamer readers who are looking for a projector for your fiery frag games , the Fengmi 4K is open to you."


It's good that they got the lag time down a bit but at 1700 ANSI lumens compared to 3000 for the P1 means you are taking a big hit in brightness and they are priced the same. Good to see more manufacturers though and I hope to see reduced lag time in future models. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## Shark hunter

Getting my Optoma P1 delivered tomorrow from bestbuy. Already have optoma 100" alr screen ready to be installed. 

Plan to test P1 for a week and decide either to keep or return. I play single player video games and would be checking if the inpit lag is bearable.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

clrad said:


> Not sure if this is the best place to post but I'm about to pull the trigger on one of these and just had a few nagging questions:
> 
> Is it worth getting renewed for ~20% savings?
> I'm going with a mounted ALR screen. Is it worth paying 50 - 100% more for the Grandview Dynamique vs the PET Crystal from XY Screens?
> Am I able to place a center channel speaker directly behind and above the projector without affecting the image (Speaker is ~6" tall)?
> 
> Thanks!


Depending on screen size you could potentially mount the center above the P1. I think it's around 15 inches from where the P1 sits compared to the bottom of the image. 

The other question is harder to answer. Many people have asked the same but it doesn't appear anyone has been able to compare these screens side by side in the same environment with same UST PJ. Ordering from an authorized retailer was also a factor as I've read about some nightmare return scenerio's if it's shipped from China. Many people here have posted that they're perfectly happy with their XY screens or Elite Aeon CLR and have zero regrets but I have zero complaints about the Grandview. I would have liked to see a comparison before I purchased but it just wasn't possible. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## clrad

diggumsmax said:


> Depending on screen size you could potentially mount the center above the P1. I think it's around 15 inches from where the P1 sits compared to the bottom of the image.
> 
> The other question is harder to answer. Many people have asked the same but it doesn't appear anyone has been able to compare these screens side by side in the same environment with same UST PJ. Ordering from an authorized retailer was also a factor as I've read about some nightmare return scenerio's if it's shipped from China. Many people here have posted that they're perfectly happy with their XY screens or Elite Aeon CLR and have zero regrets but I have zero complaints about the Grandview. I would have liked to see a comparison before I purchased but it just wasn't possible.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Thanks for the response! Waiting for a response back for cost on the XY screen but I may go with the Elite Aeon if there isn't a significant price difference. I'll dig a bit about the refurb P1 as well.


----------



## diggumsmax

clrad said:


> Thanks for the response! Waiting for a response back for cost on the XY screen but I may go with the Elite Aeon if there isn't a significant price difference. I'll dig a bit about the refurb P1 as well.


Please note that the Aeon can't resolve a UHD pixel, it's only rated for 1080p. Others say this doesn't matter. I haven't seen the Aeon so I can't comment on it. Even though the P1 is "faux" 4K I wanted a screen rated for 4K for future purposes once true 4K UHD projectors are more affordable. I don't like that term as it does output UHD pixels granted it's using mirrors and a 1080p DLP chip but that's the name that stuck.

I'm sure I've just made things even more difficult to decide. Posters on here have both so I'm sure they will chime in at some point with their experience. If you are looking for both I would contact projectotscreen, they usually have good discounts if you buy both the screen and projector. They can also answer any questions you may have ten times better than me. That's who I ordered from, several personal phone discussions. At a minimum you will get some questions answered. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Tung-Huy La

120" AEON CLR Screen, fully usable in broad daylight!


----------



## Casey_Bryson

diggumsmax said:


> It's good that they got the lag time down a bit but at 1700 ANSI lumens compared to 3000 for the P1 means you are taking a big hit in brightness and they are priced the same. Good to see more manufacturers though and I hope to see reduced lag time in future models.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


You can buy 3 fengmi 2019's for the price of the P1 Pro/UZH65UST's and even those models, which have more lumens than standard P1 are about 2100 lumens calibrated. So 2100 versus 1700 is not that much.The A300 sports about 2600 calibrated and has also tested very low 32ms on input lag and it's only $2400 now, but some units exhibit a higher input lag. 

From a price standpoint there is no comparison, but I'm sure it's nice to have more lumens available for 3D/HDR even if the color isn't accurate.


----------



## diggumsmax

Casey_Bryson said:


> You can buy 3 fengmi 2019's for the price of the P1 Pro/UZH65UST's and even those models, which have more lumens than standard P1 are about 2100 lumens calibrated. So 2100 versus 1700 is not that much.The A300 sports about 2600 calibrated and has also tested very low 32ms on input lag and it's only $2400 now, but some units exhibit a higher input lag.
> 
> From a price standpoint there is no comparison, but I'm sure it's nice to have more lumens available for 3D/HDR even if the color isn't accurate.


I only did some e brief research but it was the same price as the P1 on a French website. I'm sure that's far from the best deal but did minimum research. I've got some doubt but will wait for more reviews. It's claiming 200"s (it does say 150 for best image, which is an instant concern). I would imagine the corners would be way out of focus at that size. Is there some trick that other manufacturers do to jack up the contrast ratio. Like using phrases like "dynamic black contrast ratio" to jack up the number? I've noticed that 3000:1 seems to be the typical Chinese UST ratings seem super low compared to the P1's 1,500,000:1 contrast ratio. Are you also saying this has more accurate colors than the P1? I find that really hard to believe. 









Fengmi Projector Miroir Noir Projecteurs Sale, Price & Reviews| Gearbest Mobile


Buy fengmi Projecteur Laser 4K de Cinéma de Lancer Ultra Court at cheap price mobile online, with Youtube reviews and FAQs, we generally offer free shipping to Europe, US, Latin America, Russia, etc.




m.gearbest.com





Brightness: 1700 Ansi lumens

3000: 1
Image Size: 40 - 200 inch


Lastly, what is Fengmi exactly? A range ? A sub-brand? I found Fengmi wemax one on the internet ... That's about it. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

clrad said:


> Not sure if this is the best place to post but I'm about to pull the trigger on one of these and just had a few nagging questions:
> 
> Is it worth getting renewed for ~20% savings?
> I'm going with a mounted ALR screen. Is it worth paying 50 - 100% more for the Grandview Dynamique vs the PET Crystal from XY Screens?
> Am I able to place a center channel speaker directly behind and above the projector without affecting the image (Speaker is ~6" tall)?
> 
> Thanks!


Similar to what was said before I have the PET Crystal screen and could not be happier, a side by side would be needed to confirm any differences but my gut feeling is it’s minimal if any.

As for the center speaker, I had the same conundrum hoping I could mount it between the projector and the screen but it wasn’t possible (100 inch screen, speaker dimension: 
*External Dimensions (Including Grille and Terminals (H x W x D))*
235 x 560 x 270 mm (91/4 x 221/16 x 105/8")

In the end I ended up purchasing a custom height center speaker stand and mounting it in front (and slightly above) of the projector. I think you’ll be in a similar position but best to test it out first.


----------



## USTGuy

clrad said:


> Thanks for the response! Waiting for a response back for cost on the XY screen but I may go with the Elite Aeon if there isn't a significant price difference. I'll dig a bit about the refurb P1 as well.


I have the Grandview Dynamique and I think based on specs and company reputation it is the best screen specifically for this kind of projector. 
0.4 gain (most other brands have 0.8 gain), optimal for 4K display, 18 years in the industry as a screen manufacturer, and ESF certified. It's worth every penny.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Casey_Bryson

diggumsmax said:


> I only did some e brief research but it was the same price as the P1 on a French website. I'm sure that's far from the best deal but did minimum research. I've got some doubt but will wait for more reviews. It's claiming 200"s (it does say 150 for best image, which is an instant concern). I would imagine the corners would be way out of focus at that size. Is there some trick that other manufacturers do to jack up the contrast ratio. Like using phrases like "dynamic black contrast ratio" to jack up the number? I've noticed that 3000:1 seems to be the typical Chinese UST ratings seem super low compared to the P1's 1,500,000:1 contrast ratio. Are you also saying this has more accurate colors than the P1? I find that really hard to believe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fengmi Projector Miroir Noir Projecteurs Sale, Price & Reviews| Gearbest Mobile
> 
> 
> Buy fengmi Projecteur Laser 4K de Cinéma de Lancer Ultra Court at cheap price mobile online, with Youtube reviews and FAQs, we generally offer free shipping to Europe, US, Latin America, Russia, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> m.gearbest.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brightness: 1700 Ansi lumens
> 
> 3000: 1
> Image Size: 40 - 200 inch
> 
> 
> Lastly, what is Fengmi exactly? A range ? A sub-brand? I found Fengmi wemax one on the internet ... That's about it.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


*I agree you should do more research before posting.* You say "Chinese" like it's a bad thing when Optoma is Taiwanese and manufactures in China as well--you're splitting hairs in more than one way.

That 3000 native contrast that you reference for "Chinese" projectors are not beat by the P1 Pro, in fact the Xiaomi/Fengmi/Appotronics UST's which all work together to produce their UST's out preform in Native Contrast. *Everyone knows that 1,500,000:1 contrast ratio is a joke* for the P1 and the Pro states 2,000,000:1 LOL....that's marketing and tested with black image only where they dim the laser--you do know that same measurement is used to market and infinite contrast ratio LMAO. *Here are the real results of the Pro. It's important to keep in mind that most people use Dynamic 1. So really you're probably seeing LESS THAN 4000 calibrated WITH Dynamic Contrast engaged because the P1's Dynamic contrast is LESS THAN the P1 Pro.*











For Reference here are the results for the Fengmi 4K 2019


----------



## clrad

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> Similar to what was said before I have the PET Crystal screen and could not be happier, a side by side would be needed to confirm any differences but my gut feeling is it’s minimal if any.
> 
> As for the center speaker, I had the same conundrum hoping I could mount it between the projector and the screen but it wasn’t possible (100 inch screen, speaker dimension:
> *External Dimensions (Including Grille and Terminals (H x W x D))*
> 235 x 560 x 270 mm (91/4 x 221/16 x 105/8")
> 
> In the end I ended up purchasing a custom height center speaker stand and mounting it in front (and slightly above) of the projector. I think you’ll be in a similar position but best to test it out first.


Thanks for the response, that's what I'm trying to avoid actually. I have an Emp Tek center that's about 31"x12"x8". Going in front of the projector isn't exactly practical...

What was the problem going above and behind the projector?


----------



## Tenari

clrad said:


> Not sure if this is the best place to post but I'm about to pull the trigger on one of these and just had a few nagging questions:
> 
> Is it worth getting renewed for ~20% savings?
> I'm going with a mounted ALR screen. Is it worth paying 50 - 100% more for the Grandview Dynamique vs the PET Crystal from XY Screens?
> Am I able to place a center channel speaker directly behind and above the projector without affecting the image (Speaker is ~6" tall)?
> 
> Thanks!


The XY screens PET screens are the same as the EliteScreens CLR


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

Tenari said:


> The XY screens PET screens are the same as the EliteScreens CLR
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


In that case they both come short in displaying proper 4K UST picture

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

Does Optoma P1 displays 4K HDR content in 8 bit or 10 bit?

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

USTGuy said:


> Does Optoma P1 displays 4K HDR content in 8 bit or 10 bit?
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


10 bit. This can be verified by going into the menus going all the way to the right and then choosing input source. that or something similar it will tell you everything about the current input like frame rate and SDR versus HDR, resolution and other stuff. 

now that I re-read your question it sounds like you're talking about the actual output, not the input source. I would like to think this information is in the install PDF off of optima's website but I could be wrong. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Shark hunter

Received the optoma p1 and the optoma 100" inch screen. Having trouble how high should I mount the projector screen. When I project on the wall, i.dont see them as perfect rectangle with yellow border on top.

Should just fix the screen with the bottom yellow border aligned and then proceed with tweaking the projector to make it a perfect rectangle??

I plan to do gaming and don't wanna use smart app to align the borders.

Also, I smell a pungent smell upon turning on the optoma p1. This is wierd and pretty strong though.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


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## Casey_Bryson

USTGuy said:


> In that case they both come short in displaying proper 4K UST picture
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


How? Define proper and at least some numbers to back up your baseless claims.


----------



## diggumsmax

Shark hunter said:


> Received the optoma p1 and the optoma 100" inch screen. Having trouble how high should I mount the projector screen. When I project on the wall, i.dont see them as perfect rectangle with yellow border on top.
> 
> Should just fix the screen with the bottom yellow border aligned and then proceed with tweaking the projector to make it a perfect rectangle??
> 
> I plan to do gaming and don't wanna use smart app to align the borders.
> 
> Also, I smell a pungent smell upon turning on the optoma p1. This is wierd and pretty strong though.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


The smell would concern me the most. All I had was some new electronics smell when I turned mine on. Which quickly fades. Not sure what would even cause that smell besides a potential failing/faulty fan. Does anything smell like it's melting like plastic? Can you be any more descriptive about the smell? The P1 intake fan is in the back and both sides are exhaust fans. I would try to isolate which side it's coming from also

UST projectors are extremely difficult to get a line perfect. If I had to do it again I would assemble the frame but not take the fabric out. I would mount the screen before ever touching the fabric. That way you can make sure things line up. 

By yellow lines I'm assuming you mean the test patterns, correct? If so on a wall it probably won't line up because any imperfection on you're will show. That's why the screen material used spring or velcro attached. Any imperfection is 100% more noticeable on UST projectors. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## diggumsmax

Casey_Bryson said:


> How? Define proper and at least some numbers to back up your baseless claims.


It has to do with the surface texture  l








4K / UHD Projection Surfaces Explained







www.projectorscreen.com





Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## eedwards86

Almost done with the movie room, a few more touch-ups needed (curtains, snack area items, blankets/Pillows, and wall decorations) but all technology items are done. This may give you all some ideas for how to handle center speaker as well. This is 120" CLR Elite screen with KEF speakers (7.1.2) - 4 KEF speakers in ceiling.


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## eurovtec

eedwards86 said:


> Almost done with the movie room, a few more touch-ups needed (curtains, snack area items, blankets/Pillows, and wall decorations) but all technology items are done. This may give you all some ideas for how to handle center speaker as well. This is 120" CLR Elite screen with KEF speakers (7.1.2) - 4 KEF speakers in ceiling.
> 
> View attachment 3032641
> 
> 
> View attachment 3032643
> 
> 
> View attachment 3032644
> 
> 
> View attachment 3032645
> 
> 
> View attachment 3032647


Is that the KEF T series speakers? 
Very nice!


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## eurovtec

diggumsmax said:


> It has to do with the surface texture  l
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4K / UHD Projection Surfaces Explained
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.projectorscreen.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


XY screen surface texture has horizontal line for light rejection. 
I’m not sure how it is arrived that XY screen surface is not displaying 4k UHD.


----------



## Shark hunter

diggumsmax said:


> The smell would concern me the most. All I had was some new electronics smell when I turned mine on. Which quickly fades. Not sure what would even cause that smell besides a potential failing/faulty fan. Does anything smell like it's melting like plastic? Can you be any more descriptive about the smell? The P1 intake fan is in the back and both sides are exhaust fans. I would try to isolate which side it's coming from also
> 
> UST projectors are extremely difficult to get a line perfect. If I had to do it again I would assemble the frame but not take the fabric out. I would mount the screen before ever touching the fabric. That way you can make sure things line up.
> 
> By yellow lines I'm assuming you mean the test patterns, correct? If so on a wall it probably won't line up because any imperfection on you're will show. That's why the screen material used spring or velcro attached. Any imperfection is 100% more noticeable on UST projectors.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Could be the packaging pellets that were included in the package. Will give it a day if it continues to produce the smell.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Shark hunter

diggumsmax said:


> I don't think there is a single UST DLP projector that does under 50ms. Some other manufacturers advertise below that but the tests from various reviewers tends to land in the 70 to 100 plus millisecond range. I don't know why. The Epson claims 35ms but has a longer throw distance than any DLP currently out. With the way UST works it has to manually "distort" The picture to get the desired results for some reason. That or something else as I've researched them all and I haven't seen one under 50ms when tested from various YouTube videos.
> 
> I'm a casual gamer so this is not an issue for me but if you play with a keyboard and mouse multiplayer fast paced FPS the experience would probably be not be good. I know optoma has a short throw gaming PJ with around 3ms lag. I think it needs just over three feet for a hundred inches but I could be wrong. There is something about UST that causes more lag than standard or short throw PJ. When playing Doom 3 on my Xbox One X I barely notice any lag but I'm also a casual gamer but I have zero issues with the solo campaign and Doom 3 is very fast paced, even solo.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Hi, a quick question. I couldn't setup my 100 inch alr screen with p1 projector. Looks like i mounted the screen too low. Will try to mount the screen higher.

If game mode is a priority, should I avoid using smartfit app to auto adjust the screen or should I avoid the keystone - manual feature. Any tips to make picture perfect screen rectangle casting on to the screen?

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


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## g4s

Shark hunter said:


> Hi, a quick question. I couldn't setup my 100 inch alr screen with p1 projector. Looks like i mounted the screen too low. Will try to mount the screen higher.
> 
> If game mode is a priority, should I avoid using smartfit app to auto adjust the screen or should I avoid the keystone - manual feature. Any tips to make picture perfect screen rectangle casting on to the screen?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


From a post I made a while back.

I can tell you how I set mine up. First I set the projector on the stand sitting level and moved it around until the image on the wall measured 59" tall for a 120" screen. (A 100" screen is 49" tall.) Then I measured the distance from the floor to the top of the image. Marked the top of the image with masking tape. From there I marked the location of the brackets for the screen. Hung the screen, then moved the projector around and made small adjustments to the feet until it filled the screen. My screen has a 1/2" bezel, so that was my margin for error. I didn't have to use any geometry correction. It took a while though. As you know small adjustments can make a large difference.
If you try this method, I would first make sure any geometry correction is disabled.

BTW as an example of how small adjustments matter, last winter my projected image was about 3/8" higher than this summer. Humidity, wall movement? It's only noticeable when viewing my computer desktop image. Not a problem.


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## Ian Mclaughlin

eurovtec said:


> XY screen surface texture has horizontal line for light rejection.
> I’m not sure how it is arrived that XY screen surface is not displaying 4k UHD.


Indeed, as mentioned earlier it’s based on no actual facts. Not sure why anyone would think such a well selling screen would deceive all the owners watching 4K on it.


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## Ian Mclaughlin

clrad said:


> What was the problem going above and behind the projector?


The width and height were fine, however the diameter meant that it blocked some of the projector light meaning I couldn’t see the picture. If I had been able to mount it into the wall that would have resolved it and been a cleaner install.


----------



## USTGuy

diggumsmax said:


> 10 bit. This can be verified by going into the menus going all the way to the right and then choosing input source. that or something similar it will tell you everything about the current input like frame rate and SDR versus HDR, resolution and other stuff.
> 
> now that I re-read your question it sounds like you're talking about the actual output, not the input source. I would like to think this information is in the install PDF off of optima's website but I could be wrong.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


The menu input source display only tells you what signal is being sent to the projector, but is the projector in fact displaying picture in actual 10 bit or 8 bit?

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## eedwards86

eurovtec said:


> Is that the KEF T series speakers?
> Very nice!


Yup, those are the T Series. Here are all the speakers i'm using:

Speakers = Left/Right: KEF T301, Center: KEF T301c, LS/RS: KEF T201, FH/SB: KEF Ci160ER x 4, Sub: KEF T2

They sound fantastic and depth from wall almost matches the thickness of the screen itself so everything looks very symmetrical.


----------



## diggumsmax

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> Indeed, as mentioned earlier it’s based on no actual facts. Not sure why anyone would think such a well selling screen would deceive all the owners watching 4K on it.


So do you have anything to back that up? Elite screens and a lot of other manufacturers like to use terms like 4K ready, 8K ready, HDR ready, those aren't specifications those are just marketing lingo. I did the same test in the previous post and I could see the pixels are very clearly. I'm not sure about XY but I know the original Aon CLR was 1080p only. 

They have a newer CLR2 material out that is rated for 4K but it has less ALR as it works with short throw projectors and UST. I believe Elite claims 65% which is a huge drop from the 95% on their original. I imagine this is due to working with short throw projectors and having to reflect light at a larger angle. 

I just tend to trust authorized resellers more than I trust any marketing lingo. The Elite claims it's 8K ready, if it can only resolve pixels at 1080p and can't resolve a 4K pixel how in the world can it resolve an 8 k pixel?

at the time the authorized reseller sold the Elite. I believe the authorized reseller test on their screens with professional equipment but I could be mistaken. I do remember that it was clearly labeled 1080p. 

Here are four pictures of me performing the same test on my grand view. please note that there are some slight differences as your hands have to be completely steady. I probably took 15 photos just to get those four because any slight shaking of the hand will throw the whole thing off. I would be interested in the results of the Elite CLR starbright and the XY. Preferably of a tripod in a professional camera but I use my cell phone so I obviously can't pick. these photos were taking while showing the white display pattern from the P1.


well, here is one picture. I'm not VIP so I can't post more than one picture at a time
Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## diggumsmax

Another photo, please note this was shot from a Pixel 3 and any shaking or movement of the hand will end up in inaccurate results. And by inaccurate I mean really, really inaccurate. The attached picture had very little movement when I took the picture which is why the uniformity of the white is off. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## diggumsmax

Another photo with extreme shaking of the hand. It's pretty obvious









Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## diggumsmax

Last photo, this is probably the best one I got out of the 20 to 25 I shot. I would really like a tripod and a higher quality camera as that would be way more accurate.

I'm probably heading a limit with the 2x zoom of my Pixel 3. That and I can't upload the full size photo due to not being VIP.









Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Shark hunter

Installed P1 with optoma screen.

Tried some display settings. There is a hazy blackness to the whole picture during day time watching. Is it normal.?

Couldn't capture on smartphone though.?









Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


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## diggumsmax

When I said Chinese projectors I meant the fact that you can't buy them in the United States. You have to order them from China and I've read the forums If you get a bad unit you're going to have a long turnaround time and people have had some nightmare return scenar ios. One particular review I remember for the XY had an issue with the screen. XY would either knock a hundred bucks off or the reviewer could ship the material back but they would have to pay all shipping to and from China. 

maybe if you order directly from the manufacturer or you get a better experience but it sounds like any returns or I headache, a 3-month headache in some cases. 

Lastly, where are you getting those numbers from, not debating them just interested in the source? 

The P1 hands down has the most settings to calibrate the projector any way you want. This has been mentioned in every review that I've read or comparison. I also still highly doubt that a UST projector can do 200 in that cost less than the P1. I don't know if Ferangi is claiming 200 inches or just the Italian website which was the only place I could find it and it also cost the same as the P1 in Italy. The father does 150 so I have no doubt he can do that but I just doubt he can do 200. 

So in that regard comparing the manufacturers presets isn't really the deciding factor for anyone that properly calibrates or projector. Lumens is going to depend on gain, there are many factors that determine the end number. 

I don't know if the P1 uses dynamic black all the time. I do know that it has three dedicated dynamic black picture settings. Currently setting one looks amazing but unfortunately after about 15 minutes the picture gets dark. This is supposed to be addressed in the next firmware update. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

USTGuy said:


> The menu input source display only tells you what signal is being sent to the projector, but is the projector in fact displaying picture in actual 10 bit or 8 bit?
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


I just happen to be rereading projector centrals review and saw the below so thought I would pass along and info. This review is for the pro model but from my understanding the main difference is the brightness and some slightly better optics. 

_The projector also exhibited very clean and nearly invisible transitions on our ProjectorCentral 10-bit HDR Grayscale Wheels animation, which verifies 10-bit processing from input to screen._

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

Even my old white screen I paid $20 for it is marked as 4K ready. That doesn't mean it's true.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

diggumsmax said:


> I just happen to be rereading projector centrals review and saw the below so thought I would pass along and info. This review is for the pro model but from my understanding the main difference is the brightness and some slightly better optics.
> 
> _The projector also exhibited very clean and nearly invisible transitions on our ProjectorCentral 10-bit HDR Grayscale Wheels animation, which verifies 10-bit processing from input to screen._
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


So it doed play at 10 bit. Most of these 4k pixel shifting projectors downsample from 10 bit to 8 bit, including Vava 4K

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


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## diggumsmax

Responded to wrong post


----------



## diggumsmax

USTGuy said:


> Even my old white screen I paid $20 for it is marked as 4K ready. That doesn't mean it's true.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Actually, if it's a non-mat surface it is. I was surprised to find out that my 11-year-old Steeart Firehawk was rated for 8K. That's because it's a non-mat surface. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

Is that HDR or SDR? If it's HDR it does look awfully dim. If it's SDR I found, personally I like to turn the brightness down a bit and turn the contrast up a bit. I usually put it on HDR soon but I understand some people don't like pure motion. To me HDR is pretty spot-on with the default settings on my Grandview. I have not seen or ever used the Optima ALR scteen

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

diggumsmax said:


> So do you have anything to back that up?


I haven’t gone to the lengths you have to test your screen, but if there are facts that prove the XY screen cannot display 4K accurately please let us know. In this case it’s being accused of not being able to support it with nothing to back it up. Kind of like Apple fan boys saying the iPhone is better than all android phones. Anyway happy to be corrected if there is facts to back the claim up.


----------



## diggumsmax

I tested the screen because it didn't seem too hard based off the instructions listed on the website. With all that said, I'm happy with my purchase. If you're happy with your purchase and your screen then who cares. We're both happy. I was hesitant to order from China directly.

I initially started researching ALR USD screens a little over a year ago. Unfortunately they have dropped significantly in price since then. I wish I would have held out on that but I'm glad I got the P1. As for the XY DET Crystal I never specifically said that it could not do 4K resolution. Only that the Elite CLR Star Bright original was 1080p only. That is the only screen I said that was limited in resolution.

I was dead set on an ex-wife Fresno screen due to better ALR but no one in China would ship me just one directly. The reason being their heart screen so shipping is obviously a nightmare. They can't be rolled up or folded in any shape form or fashion. If I would have had an issue then returning it would have been a nightmare and cost a ton of money so that is when I started to lean towards the elite. After discussing and realizing that it was only rated for 1080p, this was based off the fact that it could resolve 4K pixels plus other factors with that discussion I had via phone with the authorized reseller.

There's some comfort and peace in mind with a 3-year warranty. That helps a lot. I've also read of some nightmare scenarios with shipping stuff back to China with sometimes up to 3 months wait time. I did not want to have to do that so that was a deciding factor and going with the Optima P1 and the Grandview. I knew if I had any issues the turnaround time would be extremely quicker. I pre-ordered the P1 and got one at the first lot so you're kind of rolling the dice on the first one's coming off the line.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Adam, when I met anything to back it up I was just wanting to know where you got those numbers from that you posted in the screenshots earlier. I'm just interested in their source


----------



## Shark hunter

Shark hunter said:


> Installed P1 with optoma screen.
> 
> Tried some display settings. There is a hazy blackness to the whole picture during day time watching. Is it normal.?
> 
> Couldn't capture on smartphone though.?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


I found some display settings and ended up getting a satisfactory settings.

While using the projector in a dark environment, I see a HALO border around the projector. I did the adjustment manually and never used the smartfit app.

Is it normal to get a white translucent border around the screen?

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## eurovtec

I have read about the key difference of Light rejection rate of different ALR screen, that differentiate itself from the good vs the normal ALR screen. However, that will only affect daytime watching.
As for the surface imperfections that affects 4k, it’s the same argument in expensive speaker cables making a difference In sound quality. 
Grand view is also made in china As XY screen. It all boils down to what u trust.
I think most importantly is the quality of the projector. 
I hope Optoma will update us on the Next firmware update.


----------



## eurovtec

Shark hunter said:


> I found some display settings and ended up getting a satisfactory settings.
> 
> While using the projector in a dark environment, I see a HALO border around the projector. I did the adjustment manually and never used the smartfit app.
> 
> Is it normal to get a white translucent border around the screen?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


Yes. It think it’s normal. They called it the rainbow effect & it’s due to the DLP chip.
I do hope someone or Optoma can share on how to eliminate this border.


----------



## diggumsmax

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> I haven’t gone to the lengths you have to test your screen, but if there are facts that prove the XY screen cannot display 4K accurately please let us know. In this case it’s being accused of not being able to support it with nothing to back it up. Kind of like Apple fan boys saying the iPhone is better than all android phones. Anyway happy to be corrected if there is facts to back the claim up.


When I meant anything to back it up I was just wanting to know where the other poster got those numbets. I do not know the source of those numbers from that a previous post in the screenshots earlier. I'm just interested in their source that show all three big chinese manufacturers all beating the P1 in UST, particularly When it comes to color accuracy and HDR performance. 

As I stated in other posts I never said the XY could not do 4K resolution. I stated the Elite Aeon CLR Star StarBright could not. This is due to the surface matte. I like official numbers. Not marketplace terms that mean nothing. Like 4K/8K ready and HDR rated. That really means nothing and tells me nothing. The authorized retailer that rated them at 1080p, I believe based off their own test but I may be mistaken about that. 

The CLR2 can resolve 4K but there is a 30% drop in ALR. This is due to it working with short throw as well as UST so the angle that allows light is bigger. That explains the drop in ALR.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

eurovtec said:


> Yes. It think it’s normal. They called it the rainbow effect & it’s due to the DLP chip.
> I do hope someone or Optoma can share on how to eliminate this border.


Rainbow effect depends on the person. some people's eyes can notice the color wheel spinning which causes the rainbow effect. I'm lucky, I've never noticed it on DLP. Some people barely notice it while others can't even watch DLP.

I could be mistaken but I've seen the halo around the frame on various review videos for various UST projectors. It's completely normal. Maybe should of waited a generation for the super small frame. It would not be noticeable with a normal size frame.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Mick Seymour

Shark hunter said:


> While using the projector in a dark environment, I see a HALO border around the projector. I did the adjustment manually and never used the smartfit app.
> 
> Is it normal to get a white translucent border around the screen?


It is normal with this PJ.

It is _not_ the DLP rainbow effect. It is caused by the edges of the chip reflecting the light. IIRC, the slightly larger next gen chip does not have this problem as the manufacturer has found a way of preventing it.


----------



## USTGuy

diggumsmax said:


> Actually, if it's a non-mat surface it is. I was surprised to find out that my 11-year-old Steeart Firehawk was rated for 8K. That's because it's a non-mat surface.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Mine was a Elite Screen Aeon Cinewhite edge free model

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

diggumsmax said:


> Is that HDR or SDR? If it's HDR it does look awfully dim. If it's SDR I found, personally I like to turn the brightness down a bit and turn the contrast up a bit. I usually put it on HDR soon but I understand some people don't like pure motion. To me HDR is pretty spot-on with the default settings on my Grandview. I have not seen or ever used the Optima ALR scteen
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


With my Grandview Dynanique screen, 4K HDR looks great in terms of brightness (default -3) but contrast looks off in very bright scenes as it clips whites. By turning contrast down from 11 to -20 I was able to regain details in very bright area without picture looking too dim
That's just my experience 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## clrad

I think I'm going to pull the trigger on the Grandview Dynamique with the P1. Sadly now that I've made that decision, I'm kinda looking at the pro but it seems the only difference is 3,000 lumen vs 3,500 lumen. Not sure if that's worth an extra $1200 and I'm leaning towards no...


----------



## diggumsmax

clrad said:


> I think I'm going to pull the trigger on the Grandview Dynamique with the P1. Sadly now that I've made that decision, I'm kinda looking at the pro but it seems the only difference is 3,000 lumen vs 3,500 lumen. Not sure if that's worth an extra $1200 and I'm leaning towards no...


I think the optics might slightly be improved but I could be wrong. The brightness was the bigger one as far as performance goes through. That is hard to justify, I would do some more research to see if you get any additional benefits

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## ProjectionHead

Optoma just announced their new UST - the CinemaX P2.

New thread here:








Optoma CinemaX P2 4K Laser UST Projector - Official...


-- Update 9/4/20: View a side-by-side of the P1 vs the P2 using factory default settings: Optoma CinemaX P2 - A New 4K Laser Ultra Short Throw (UST) Projector More images and comparisons to come. -- It's official, Optoma has just announced the release of their new 4K UST Laser Projector, the...




www.avsforum.com





_* The P1 has been discontinued with no further units being produced and the P2 & CinemaX Pro as it's replacement options._


----------



## Kev1000000

Uh... what? Does this mean P1 firmware development is dead?


----------



## ProjectionHead

Kev1000000 said:


> Uh... what? Does this mean P1 firmware development is dead?


I wouldn't assume that at all. It likely will be using the same firmware as the new P2.


----------



## ProjectionHead

clrad said:


> I think I'm going to pull the trigger on the Grandview Dynamique with the P1. Sadly now that I've made that decision, I'm kinda looking at the pro but it seems the only difference is 3,000 lumen vs 3,500 lumen. Not sure if that's worth an extra $1200 and I'm leaning towards no...


That is a great pairing (P1 and Grandview Dynamique). You may want to check out the new P2 which was just announced today as well.


----------



## diggumsmax

Delete


----------



## USTGuy

ProjectionHead said:


> Optoma just announced their new UST - the CinemaX P2.
> 
> New thread here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Optoma CinemaX P2 4K Laser UST Projector - Official...
> 
> 
> -- Update 9/4/20: View a side-by-side of the P1 vs the P2 using factory default settings: Optoma CinemaX P2 - A New 4K Laser Ultra Short Throw (UST) Projector More images and comparisons to come. -- It's official, Optoma has just announced the release of their new 4K UST Laser Projector, the...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _* The P1 has been discontinued with no further units being produced and the P2 & CinemaX Pro as it's replacement options._


That is a little unsettling for me as a P1 owner 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## eurovtec

WTH..... So current P1 users how?
Probably found some hw issues on P1 that cannot be rectified And thus discontinue The model?


----------



## ProjectionHead

eurovtec said:


> WTH..... So current P1 users how?
> Probably found some hw issues on P1 that cannot be rectified And thus discontinue The model?


That is not likely the case. They came out with the new model to meet a lower price point. For those customers looking for the "better" unit the CinemaX Pro is not going anywhere.


----------



## clrad

... my p1 just shipped. Amazing 😕


----------



## USTGuy

clrad said:


> ... my p1 just shipped. Amazing


Cant you cancel and get P2?

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## clrad

Just called to do that. Apparently the p2 uses a different color wheel that isn't as advanced as the p1. Apparently they're trying to distance the p2 and pro... Going to dig into it more but I was advised to make a decision by end of day.


----------



## bix26

clrad said:


> Just called to do that. Apparently the p2 uses a different color wheel that isn't as advanced as the p1. Apparently they're trying to distance the p2 and pro... Going to dig into it more but I was advised to make a decision by end of day.


I think the color wheel is an improvement. The P2 has an RGB/RGB color wheel. This should improve color range and reduce rainbow effect.


----------



## USTGuy

bix26 said:


> I think the color wheel is an improvement. The P2 has an RGB/RGB color wheel. This should improve color range and reduce rainbow effect.


I'll trade a 2-month old P1 for a P2! 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## clrad

How hard is it to set this up perfectly without using Smartfit? I plan on leveling it on a tripod first to get height and screen placement then building a media center/credenza for it. The shelf it will sit on will be adjustable so I can level it as well. Would I end up having to shim behind the screen frame as well or am I overthinking this?


----------



## Shark hunter

clrad said:


> How hard is it to set this up perfectly without using Smartfit? I plan on leveling it on a tripod first to get height and screen placement then building a media center/credenza for it. The shelf it will sit on will be adjustable so I can level it as well. Would I end up having to shim behind the screen frame as well or am I overthinking this?


Take it slow as well. I recently aligned manually P1 and had to throw all my mid centric alignment out of the window. To begin with. My media center, wall, projector screen, p1 was center aligned and I could never get the alignment right. Later ended up moving P1 to the right by 4 inchs to get a perfect rectangle. 
Looks like my wall on which the projector screen is isn't dead straight.

Spent 4 hours to get it aligned.

No after owning for 4 hours, I see a flickering on half of the screen and intermittent green coloring on whole screen. Looks like i will be returning it to bestbuy.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## rubema

Hi everyone, 

please I want your advice here.
Should I upgrade from my 3 years old UHD60, to the UHZ65UST?


I own UHD60 with STR-169120 Silver Ticket screen, for about 3 years, and i am so happy with it.
The only downside i am facing now with this projector is the lamp brightness, which can be replaced.

I was thinking to upgrade to the new UHZ65UST.
I know that, if i want to take most benefits of such projector, i should use the ALR screen. Which i don't what to mention it in this thread.

My qoustions, please:

Should i make this move?
Can i notice difference in picture quality, brightness with the UHZ65UST compared with the UHD60?

I, dont care about the Android OS in the new projector, all my concern is the image quality and the brightness.

Sorry!! I already posted a thread for this question but no one answer me. Hope anyone can advise.

Thank you,
Emad


----------



## tetsuo31337

rubema said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> please I want your advice here.
> Should I upgrade from my 3 years old UHD60, to the UHZ65UST?
> 
> 
> I own UHD60 with STR-169120 Silver Ticket screen, for about 3 years, and i am so happy with it.
> The only downside i am facing now with this projector is the lamp brightness, which can be replaced.
> 
> I was thinking to upgrade to the new UHZ65UST.
> I know that, if i want to take most benefits of such projector, i should use the ALR screen. Which i don't what to mention it in this thread.
> 
> My qoustions, please:
> 
> Should i make this move?
> Can i notice difference in picture quality, brightness with the UHZ65UST compared with the UHD60?
> 
> I, dont care about the Android OS in the new projector, all my concern is the image quality and the brightness.
> 
> Sorry!! I already posted a thread for this question but no one answer me. Hope anyone can advise.
> 
> Thank you,
> Emad


I'd suggest holding off for a bit until we get more details about the new Samsung USTs that will be coming out this year. Might save yourself some buyer's remorse...








Samsung's Premiere 4K ultra short throw is the first projector certified for HDR10+


In addition, both Premiere models will come equipped with Samsung’s Smart TV platform, so viewers can access all the streaming apps they want and take advantage of mobile connectivity features, such as mirroring.




www.engadget.com


----------



## rubema

Thanks tetsuo for your respond.
Actually i never regret optoma, and about this samsung new UST, i am not planning to wait since i am without my old UHD60 since a week now.
My only concern, that if i got the UHZ65UST, i will not find that much different comparing with the UHD60.


----------



## eurovtec

tetsuo31337 said:


> I'd suggest holding off for a bit until we get more details about the new Samsung USTs that will be coming out this year. Might save yourself some buyer's remorse...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Samsung's Premiere 4K ultra short throw is the first projector certified for HDR10+
> 
> 
> In addition, both Premiere models will come equipped with Samsung’s Smart TV platform, so viewers can access all the streaming apps they want and take advantage of mobile connectivity features, such as mirroring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.engadget.com


Read on a website on the estimated pricing

Samsung Premiere line launches with world’s first 4K HDR10+ projector

Samsung announces The Premiere, a luxury ultra-short throw 4K laser projector


----------



## rubema

rubema said:


> Thanks tetsuo for your respond.
> Actually i never regret optoma, and about this samsung new UST, i am not planning to wait since i am without my old UHD60 since a week now.
> My only concern, that if i got the UHZ65UST, i will not find that much different comparing with the UHD60.


I think i will go with the UHZ65UST insted of the Sony, but i just need someone to confime that i will find big diffrent between it and the UHD60


----------



## bix26

USTGuy said:


> I'll trade a 2-month old P1 for a P2!
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Hey man, don’t feel too bad. I doubt it’s a huge difference. Besides, It’s better than lurking around these forums too scared to upgrade your old 1080p projector  like me. There’s always something better right around the corner.


----------



## Christian Spiga

For all the UHZ65UST owners, DON'T WORRY about the P2, our model is better, is like the Cinema X Pro.


----------



## g_bartman

Got my P1 a month ago, it's replacing my Optoma HD-33. It's in a dedicated basement room with no windows so ambient light isn't an issue. I'm using the same screen as the 33, 120' 16/9 Silver Ticket cinewhite. I'm no expert when it comes to specs etc with projectors but I'm very impressed with the pq. color saturation and black levels appear to be very good especially on 4K discs. The fact that is also does 3d is a bonus, I have about 40 3d discs. All and all I'm very happy with my purchase.


----------



## Kdub69

g_bartman said:


> Got my P1 a month ago, it's replacing my Optoma HD-33. It's in a dedicated basement room with no windows so ambient light isn't an issue. I'm using the same screen as the 33, 120' 16/9 Silver Ticket cinewhite. I'm no expert when it comes to specs etc with projectors but I'm very impressed with the pq. color saturation and black levels appear to be very good especially on 4K discs. The fact that is also does 3d is a bonus, I have about 40 3d discs. All and all I'm very happy with my purchase.



Can someone post calibration settings looking for HDR settings and regular SD settings to watch hockey/sports on thanks!


----------



## Budala007

g_bartman said:


> Got my P1 a month ago, it's replacing my Optoma HD-33. It's in a dedicated basement room with no windows so ambient light isn't an issue. I'm using the same screen as the 33, 120' 16/9 Silver Ticket cinewhite. I'm no expert when it comes to specs etc with projectors but I'm very impressed with the pq. color saturation and black levels appear to be very good especially on 4K discs. The fact that is also does 3d is a bonus, I have about 40 3d discs. All and all I'm very happy with my purchase.


Why didn’t you go this route?









ST3-169120-UST Silver Ticket Products Thin Bezel, 120" Diagonal, 16:9 Cinema Format, 4K Ultra HD Ready, HDTV (4 Piece Fixed Frame) Projector Screen, Ultra Short Throw ALR Ambient Light Rejecting Material


ST3-169120-UST Silver Ticket Products Thin Bezel, 120" Diagonal, 16:9 Cinema Format, 4K Ultra HD Ready, HDTV (4 Piece Fixed Frame) Projector Screen, Ultra Short Through Ambient Light Rejecting Material Made from the highest grade of UST projection materials. Gain 0.4 - 0.6 Light Reflecting Rat...




www.silverticketproducts.com






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Budala007

Has anyone tried this screen with their P1?
I’m debating on whether or not to go with a 120”, but since I sit 14ft back I’m not sure 100” will cut it. At the same time I would be paying thousands for a UST and wouldn’t be getting the best quality image. 120” starts to wash out the image to a certain point. Thoughts?









Experience More


Manufacturer of award-winning projectors for business, education, professional audio/video and home entertainment




www.optoma.com






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

Shark hunter said:


> Take it slow as well. I recently aligned manually P1 and had to throw all my mid centric alignment out of the window. To begin with. My media center, wall, projector screen, p1 was center aligned and I could never get the alignment right. Later ended up moving P1 to the right by 4 inchs to get a perfect rectangle.
> Looks like my wall on which the projector screen is isn't dead straight.
> 
> Spent 4 hours to get it aligned.
> 
> No after owning for 4 hours, I see a flickering on half of the screen and intermittent green coloring on whole screen. Looks like i will be returning it to bestbuy.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


Did you do all the firmware/software updates? I had those issues bit they are gone now like exactly half the screen flaking out. Just odd because the other half would be fine. Don't use the cable out of the box. If your going to ship an HDMI cable, ship one that works. I was having issues an someone affiliated with optoma was acting like I was crazy for not having a better cable. They do have some HDMI issues to resolve. All I know is I got an HDFury Key to get Dolby true HD and DTS MA to my non arc receiver. I got the added bonus of the minimal EDID functionality even though it is an audio extractor. 

The latest software/firmware update for the P1 came out the day before I got it and it still made a huge difference. Also got some 3 meter cables. I've found some 4K HDR displays are super picky about cables. It's no longer a case of "it's digital, it gets there or it doesn't. Especially with the fun of HDCP 2.2 which can already be tricked and display a 4k HDR image on a HDMI 1.4. display that is capable of 4K HDR. I just don't get the point. Anything broadcasted or from a streaming service is "out there". I support content creators outside of OG star wars despecialized editions but you can't exactly buy them either. Lucas destroyed it with cgi, and extremely crushed blacks. The blu ray release was from upscaled 480p laserdisc source...... 

Anyways, it's worth doing the upgrades. The firmware update takes a good 30 minutes, or at least it seemed that long. You can still send it back if you have issues but if you have a receiver in the mix I would plug the source directly into the P1 with the shortest hdmi 2.0 cable you have. If the only one you have is the one that came with the P1, it's worth buying another cable (preferably as short as possible) as you can return the cable if the issues are still not resolved. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

Budala007 said:


> Has anyone tried this screen with their P1?
> I’m debating on whether or not to go with a 120”, but since I sit 14ft back I’m not sure 100” will cut it. At the same time I would be paying thousands for a UST and wouldn’t be getting the best quality image. 120” starts to wash out the image to a certain point. Thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Experience More
> 
> 
> Manufacturer of award-winning projectors for business, education, professional audio/video and home entertainment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.optoma.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have not personally seen this screen but apparently it isn't great according to other posters who have seen or owned one Not terrible bit you can get a better screen for the same price, probably less. I've heard nothing but good feedback on the XY UST screen on here. I ended up getting the Grandview DY3 and couldn't be happier with the ALR and the picture quality is just better with a ALR UST screen unless you have a batcave like environment. 

See Optoma P1 4k Laser UST @ CES

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## g_bartman

Budala007 said:


> Why didn’t you go this route?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ST3-169120-UST Silver Ticket Products Thin Bezel, 120" Diagonal, 16:9 Cinema Format, 4K Ultra HD Ready, HDTV (4 Piece Fixed Frame) Projector Screen, Ultra Short Throw ALR Ambient Light Rejecting Material
> 
> 
> ST3-169120-UST Silver Ticket Products Thin Bezel, 120" Diagonal, 16:9 Cinema Format, 4K Ultra HD Ready, HDTV (4 Piece Fixed Frame) Projector Screen, Ultra Short Through Ambient Light Rejecting Material Made from the highest grade of UST projection materials. Gain 0.4 - 0.6 Light Reflecting Rat...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.silverticketproducts.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Because I like the performance of the screen I had from my previous projector and I don't need ALR because I'm in a dedicated room with no windows and ip controlled lights.


----------



## Budala007

g_bartman said:


> Because I like the performance of the screen I had from my previous projector and I don't need ALR because I'm in a dedicated room with no windows and ip controlled lights.


Did you ever consider a motorized option like VividStorm?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

diggumsmax said:


> I have not personally seen this screen but apparently it isn't great according to other posters who have seen or owned one Not terrible bit you can get a better screen for the same price, probably less. I've heard nothing but good feedback on the XY UST screen on here. I ended up getting the Grandview DY3 and couldn't be happier with the ALR and the picture quality is just better with a ALR UST screen unless you have a batcave like environment.
> 
> See Optoma P1 4k Laser UST @ CES
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


I have a batcave environment and still got the Grandview DY3 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## jason_j_a

Budala007 said:


> Has anyone tried this screen with their P1?
> I’m debating on whether or not to go with a 120”, but since I sit 14ft back I’m not sure 100” will cut it. At the same time I would be paying thousands for a UST and wouldn’t be getting the best quality image. 120” starts to wash out the image to a certain point. Thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Experience More
> 
> 
> Manufacturer of award-winning projectors for business, education, professional audio/video and home entertainment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.optoma.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm a new P1 owner (coming from Epson LS100). I decided to upgrade my screen too and have been eyeing the ALR ones. I was debating hard between the Elita 103", the Optoma 100" and the 110" Grandview but the cost delta was huge to jump to the Grandview... the Optoma ALR screen went on sale a couple days ago from Best Buy (still on sale today) and that made the price difference too big to justify the 110" Grandview (3x the price!). I received the Optoma screen a few days ago and it is nice. I was surprised the top and bottom rail was one piece (my previous Silver Ticket screens had two piece rails). The only complaint i have is the wall brackets are meh but they worked ok and allow for some vertical adjustment after you make your holes. Picture quality wise, it's nice and the screen looks much nicer in the family room when the projector is off. I opted for the Optoma screen because I knew I could return it to Best Buy if I didn't like it, but I'm keeping it. It's one of the most affordable UST ALR screens you can buy if you can get it on sale.


----------



## diggumsmax

USTGuy said:


> I have a batcave environment and still got the Grandview DY3
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk






jason_j_a said:


> I'm a new P1 owner (coming from Epson LS100). I decided to upgrade my screen too and have been eyeing the ALR ones. I was debating hard between the Elita 103", the Optoma 100" and the 110" Grandview but the cost delta was huge to jump to the Grandview... the Optoma ALR screen went on sale a couple days ago from Best Buy (still on sale today) and that made the price difference too big to justify the 110" Grandview (3x the price!). I received the Optoma screen a few days ago and it is nice. I was surprised the top and bottom rail was one piece (my previous Silver Ticket screens had two piece rails). The only complaint i have is the wall brackets are meh but they worked ok and allow for some vertical adjustment after you make your holes. Picture quality wise, it's nice and the screen looks much nicer in the family room when the projector is off. I opted for the Optoma screen because I knew I could return it to Best Buy if I didn't like it, but I'm keeping it. It's one of the most affordable UST ALR screens you can buy if you can get it on sale.


This was about the only thing I didn't like about the Grandview. The top and bottom metal frames were cut in half, so you have to make sure you line up the ones that were cut. This actually added a lot more time to assemble. I understand it cut costs on shipping but every screen I had assembled before did not cut the top and bottom frames like that. I will say that Grandviews spring tab tension worked very well. 

You don't get much wiggle room for up and down. For the grandiew it was 1/2" so even when mounting with the bracket it the middle, you only had a 1/4 inch up and down to adjust the screen. It is understandable that UST projectors don't have lens shift. I believe the epson has side to side but it does not have any up or down lens shift and standard throw lcd projectors always do. 

If I had to do it over again I would hang the frame first, use built in test pattern with the yellow border to make sure everything lined up, if not then make adjustments as needed, then put the fabric on and hang the screen knowing things would line up. Especially with the thin bezel design. 


Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

diggumsmax said:


> This was about the only thing I didn't like about the Grandview. The top and bottom metal frames were cut in half, so you have to make sure you line up the ones that were cut. This actually added a lot more time to assemble. I understand it cut costs on shipping but every screen I had assembled before did not cut the top and bottom frames like that. I will say that Grandviews spring tab tension worked very well.
> 
> You don't get much wiggle room for up and down. For the grandiew it was 1/2" so even when mounting with the bracket it the middle, you only had a 1/4 inch up and down to adjust the screen. It is understandable that UST projectors don't have lens shift. I believe the epson has side to side but it does not have any up or down lens shift and standard throw lcd projectors always do.
> 
> If I had to do it over again I would hang the frame first, use built in test pattern with the yellow border to make sure everything lined up, if not then make adjustments as needed, then put the fabric on and hang the screen knowing things would line up. Especially with the thin bezel design.
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


I'm not that picky when it comes to that. As long as the image falls within the screen perimeter I'm happy. Once the lights are off all I focus on is just the picture and not the screen or the screen frame around it.
As you can see from these pics, projector should be lower and further away from screen, but once lights are off I'm totally pleased with the end result

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

USTGuy said:


> I'm not that picky when it comes to that. As long as the image falls within the screen perimeter I'm happy. Once the lights are off all I focus on is just the picture and not the screen or the screen frame around it
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Do you undershoot or use smartfit? Smartfit works great. My last two pj's were standard throw with vertical and horizontal lens shift. I understand from a technical standpoint why they don't but with different offsets with each unit there is no perfect distance from where the bottom of the image is going to be compared to where the projector is sitting. If you're are lucky you were on the low end but I was pretty much max offset. I think it's 16 1/2 inches from the credenza where the P1 sits. 

I was thinking it was going to be around 13 inches and those three inches mattered. It's a shot in the dark on what the offset is as long as it's in tolerable level according to optomo. This completely threw off my plan to try 120. Grandview had a 110 model but it was originally so close to the 120 model so that wasn't an option. At the time it would of been better to do 120 and bit a new, cheaper theayer cabinet. That has changed but that part of early adoption. With no lens shift and very little wiggle room with the brackets it was the most difficult projector to get aligned and I still have to undershoot at the same time. While I don't like altering the projector I will pull it out to overshoot to use it. It really is the one app that works great compared to other app. The tapcast also works great. Even with the white hallow, I don't see it using smartfit as the edge free bezels are just enough to cover thenlight bleedover. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

diggumsmax said:


> Do you undershoot or use smartfit? Smartfit works great. My last two pj's were standard throw with vertical and horizontal lens shift. I understand from a technical standpoint why they don't but with different offsets with each unit there is no perfect distance from where the bottom of the image is going to be compared to where the projector is sitting. If you're are lucky you were on the low end but I was pretty much max offset. I think it's 16 1/2 inches from the credenza where the P1 sits.
> 
> I was thinking it was going to be around 13 inches and those three inches mattered. It's a shot in the dark on what the offset is as long as it's in tolerable level according to optomo. This completely threw off my plan to try 120. Grandview had a 110 model but it was originally so close to the 120 model so that wasn't an option. At the time it would of been better to do 120 and bit a new, cheaper theayer cabinet. That has changed but that part of early adoption. With no lens shift and very little wiggle room with the brackets it was the most difficult projector to get aligned and I still have to undershoot at the same time. While I don't like altering the projector I will pull it out to overshoot to use it. It really is the one app that works great compared to other app. The tapcast also works great. Even with the white hallow, I don't see it using smartfit as the edge free bezels are just enough to cover thenlight bleedover.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


For smartfit to work the yellow lines must lend outside of the screen perimeter. I just dont have enough room to pull the projector that far back.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

USTGuy said:


> For smartfit to work the yellow lines must lend outside of the screen perimeter. I just dont have enough room to pull the projector that far back.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


That's my only issue. I have to pull my theater cabinet out a little bit for it to work. I wish you didn't have to overshoot as much as you do to get it to work yet I don't see any other UST projectors offering this feature. Only warp control so it's understandable. I might be relocating soon and if I do I'm going to make sure to get it t right. My OCD like behavior will notice something but I can live with it as the picture does seem a little brighter when using smartfit. Barely noticeable bit still there and would prefer not to use it but these things are tricky to align 100 percent perfect. 

Off topic but after a lot of research I should be getting my HDFury Diva on Wednesday. It comes with a lag tester but not sure if it works on projectors as the main reason I purchased it was for LLDV injection. That and OSDs everywhere compared to the vertex 2 (no matrix). That and the Diva is a matrix so I can run a fiber HDMI cable to my bedroom display as the control and settings are extremely customizable. It also remaps SDR color spaces to HDR which is one of the P1 could handle better. I'm interested how well it does remapping me6ada driven Dolby Vision by remapping the tone colors. It tricks the source into think you have a Dolby Vision display so it outputs DV while the Diva remaps the color tones in sub 1ms time so you essentially get DV as and HDR10 signal. It's a hack but there are enough videos that demonstrate how it works. It also allows you to do 4K HDR on non HDCP 2.2 ports. Not something I will use but makes HDCP 2.2 seem useless if you can get around it already. There are also users who share settings for various displays. It will even remove logos like broadcast logos. Not sure how that feature works but will give an update once I got it in my hands. Only issue is I can only test on a vizio and Samsung. Since no Samsung display supports Dolby Vision my shield 2019 pro will be a great test for LLDV. Not cheap but honestly an extremely reasonable price for all it's features. They have a much cheaper model coming out soon (arcana) that does automatic LLDV injection but it's built completely around ARC and eARC. The Diva has the HDFury key feature which allows you to send and audio to any device. My receiver has no ARC ports so that is the only way I can get Dolby true HD and DTS MA or I would of got the arcana which isn't even available yet. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

Even if I got a lower shelf I'd have to place it with projector on it further back and my bed is in the way as this is a bedroom set up. Overall I'm happy and once the lights are off and it's showtime I really don't pay attention to how properly aligned image is if or whether the image is not filling up the entire screen. Still looks better than any LED TV!

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## jason_j_a

diggumsmax said:


> This was about the only thing I didn't like about the Grandview. The top and bottom metal frames were cut in half, so you have to make sure you line up the ones that were cut. This actually added a lot more time to assemble. I understand it cut costs on shipping but every screen I had assembled before did not cut the top and bottom frames like that. I will say that Grandviews spring tab tension worked very well.
> 
> You don't get much wiggle room for up and down. For the grandiew it was 1/2" so even when mounting with the bracket it the middle, you only had a 1/4 inch up and down to adjust the screen. It is understandable that UST projectors don't have lens shift. I believe the epson has side to side but it does not have any up or down lens shift and standard throw lcd projectors always do.
> 
> If I had to do it over again I would hang the frame first, use built in test pattern with the yellow border to make sure everything lined up, if not then make adjustments as needed, then put the fabric on and hang the screen knowing things would line up. Especially with the thin bezel design.
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk



The Optoma screen also uses springs for tension. There are about 80 for the material and then about another 12 to hold on the small border frame. I first assembled the frame and then hung it without the material with the test pattern up. I was able to get almost perfect (I had to adjust it up about 1/2" afterwards) and then put the fabric on an re-hung it. This is a much better way to line up a screen but only works well if your screen is a zero or thin edge screen.


----------



## RobinsonCrusoe

USTGuy said:


>


Isn´t it possible to detach the top level of your shelf to lower the pj? The next level below the top level seems to be bigger, so that you could pull the pj a bit away from the wall to fill your screen. Just an idea.


----------



## g_bartman

Budala007 said:


> Did you ever consider a motorized option like VividStorm?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


No, I like having a fixed frame.


----------



## arpy911

I just bought a P1 to replace an older Epson and a new entertainment cabinet for it to sit on ... had to move it a little farther out from the wall than I would like from my (already hung) 100-inch screen. At first the best I could do looked like I was going to have to drop the screen about 3 inches to center the image which would have exposed the mounting points for the screen and been a big headache to touch up. And the SmartFit didn't work at all. But after experimenting with the manual warp and geometry correction I was able to adjust the image to fit the screen perfectly by selecting the middle bottom point and adjusting it up, then the top middle, then the corners, etc. It was not difficult. Of course, right after I opened the box they announced the P2 but I am still within my 30-day return window on Amazon so hoping the P2 I ordered will arrive in time, otherwise I will just cancel it and keep the P1. I prefer the black housing on the P1 but for $500 less ... you know.


----------



## chinmokutak

Anyone got recomended setting for this projector? I'm on gaming mode, and watched Mulan, felt it could be much better.


----------



## Shark hunter

chinmokutak said:


> Anyone got recomended setting for this projector? I'm on gaming mode, and watched Mulan, felt it could be much better.


Found this helpful 









Settings Optoma CinemaX P1 Smart 4K UHD Laser UST Projector


Best Projektor Settings Optoma CinemaX P1. Find here amazing Settings for the Optoma CinemaX P1 from different well known sources.




best-tv-settings.com





Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

chinmokutak said:


> Anyone got recomended setting for this projector? I'm on gaming mode, and watched Mulan, felt it could be much better.


For a start I would not use gaming mode to watch a movie. Try the cinema setting. There’s a few sites with settings posted but not sure it will help as each environment/screen combination is different.


----------



## USTGuy

RobinsonCrusoe said:


> Isn´t it possible to detach the top level of your shelf to lower the pj? The next level below the top level seems to be bigger, so that you could pull the pj a bit away from the wall to fill your screen. Just an idea.


Yes I tried that. But even at that height I'll have to pull everything further back which will get in the way of the end part of my bed

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> For a start I would not use gaming mode to watch a movie. Try the cinema setting. There’s a few sites with settings posted but not sure it will help as each environment/screen combination is different.


Cinema settings but with the following changes for movies:
Color 0
Tint 0
Sharpness 1 
Color Temp Warm
Gamma 2.4
Brilliant Color 5
Brighthess 80%

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Eli76




----------



## Eli76

P1 paired with 103 inches CLR 2 series ALR screen from Elite Screen using Smartfit


----------



## Kdub69

Eli76 said:


> P1 paired with 103 inches CLR 2 series ALR screen from Elite Screen using Smartfit
> View attachment 3035708


Sick setup can I ask what lights you are using and the little clock near the lights is everything controlled with alexa?


----------



## DubsGuy

Hello, I've been keeping up with the thread as of recently but wondering if there has been any updates regarding the issue with Game Mode making everything all green tinted and constantly flashing and flickering? I've noticed the OptomaGuy hasn't been active for a few weeks and wondering if someone else was handling the bug requests and such.


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

So with the Xbox announcements the other day it’s got me considering purchasing one of them. I am a casual gamer at best, but looking to maybe try out the new Microsoft flight simulator on the projector.

Anyway so my question is with regards the Xbox Series X vs Xbox Series S. The Series X is capable of 4K @ 60 FPS, the Series S can do 1440p @ 120 FPS.

Will this PJ be able to display content at the full 4K @ 60 FPS or is the display not up to it meaning I should go for the Series S?


----------



## zekonavsforum

DubsGuy said:


> Hello, I've been keeping up with the thread as of recently but wondering if there has been any updates regarding the issue with Game Mode making everything all green tinted and constantly flashing and flickering? I've noticed the OptomaGuy hasn't been active for a few weeks and wondering if someone else was handling the bug requests and such.


Hi, 

I agree : it's time for Optoma PM DUDE to make a come back, for next firmware : 

About the game mode : playing is now possible ( mario kart on switch, rocket league on pc ), but THERE ARE BUGS :

BUG 1 with HIGH SEVERITY : Exiting game mode is a problem : black screen where nothing is possible, or image cropping (very bottom of image). I have sometime a chance when going back to HOME, where the game mode is disabled. But most of the time, i have to switch off and on the projector...
BUG 2 with HIGH SEVERITY : Colors and pixels are weird... Try with a computer on windows : fonts become awful, and color backgrounds become weird : some pixels slighlty change their color, like old 8 bit dithering. Flickering/Flashing is very weird : what does this mode do with colors ? Maybe game mode must be force in a specific resolution, color format and depth ( ex : 1080p only, RGB 8 ? ) . Cannot stay in this mode for any other that gaming, movies become awful in this mode
BUG 3 with MEDIUM SEVERITY : Green tint. It may be fixed quickly I think, because a switch in display mode ( cinema -> reference for exemple ) make the green tint disappear
BUG 4 with LOW SEVERITY : If gaming mode is enabled for one HDMI input, keep it enable on next startup
BUG 5 with LOW SEVERITY : Switching time in/out game mode is too loooooong ( ~10 sec )

I saw some others bugs in comparison to the previous firmwares :
- BUG 6 with HIGH SEVERITY : movies in 24hz 2160p HDR YCbCr 420: now there are image disconnection/reconnection during a movie : ~10 times the screen becomes black during 1 seconde.... Cannot be acceptable for a dedicated movie projector.... I have a PCHC with radeon RX470, certified-hdmi high spped cable, and had no problem with previous firmware for 6 months...

Help us Optoma PM DUDE


----------



## ferxel

Hi,

I just unpacked my uhz65ust, did the updates, everything’s fine. Exept that the image is not centered at all. It’s like if the lens was shift 20cm to the right. It makes it impossible for me to install the ALR101 in the yellow rectangle. Just brought it back to the store, waiting for an exchange from Optoma. Did someone else had a problem like this ?
(Yes distances to the wall and levels were good, even when I looked inside the lens, I could see something was not completely symmetrical)


----------



## diggumsmax

ferxel said:


> Hi,
> 
> I just unpacked my uhz65ust, did the updates, everything’s fine. Exept that the image is not centered at all. It’s like if the lens was shift 20cm to the right. It makes it impossible for me to install the ALR101 in the yellow rectangle. Just brought it back to the store, waiting for an exchange from Optoma. Did someone else had a problem like this ?
> (Yes distances to the wall and levels were good, even when I looked inside the lens, I could see something was not completely symmetrical)
> 
> View attachment 3036318
> 
> View attachment 3036319


Is that on a wall or screen? These things aren't fun to align. Millimeters make a huge difference. It looks like a wall. You will never get everything centered on a wall unless you got some mad carpentry skills, orr know someone that does. That's what is causing the discoloration. Smartfit works great but you have to overshoot the screen for it to work. 

I have seen a lot of people post pictures where they just undershoot the screen by an inch too an inch and a half so it's easier to align. There really is no wiggle room and every unit has a different offset which makes a much bigger difference on UST projectors. It's almost impossible to get it aligned with an edge-free screen without some light bleeding over. It's doable but it's not easy. 

I don't know what type of screen you have but I would hang the frame first with the edge free parts on to get a good idea where it should hang. You want the yellow frame right inside and next to the edge free sides. A lot easier to say than actually do though. I would wait until you do that to even take the fabric out. Triple check the fabric before you hang it to make sure there are zero creases. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

Eli76 said:


> P1 paired with 103 inches CLR 2 series ALR screen from Elite Screen using Smartfit
> View attachment 3035708


Nice setup. Is there any particular reason you went with the Elite CLR2? Just wondering because of the 30 percent less ALR compared to the Aeon CLR (elite claims 95% while the CLR2 is 65% as it is made for both UST projectors and ultra short throw projectors. They have to give it some more wiggle room for where the light bounces back due to supporting ultra short throw projectors. 

Optomo also has a good deal on a gaming short throw projector. 1080p only bit it does HDR and has a crazy low lag time. Thinks it's around 10ms but it could be more, maybe less. Can still do 100 inches from 3ft though. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## J Bone

ferxel said:


> Hi,
> 
> I just unpacked my uhz65ust, did the updates, everything’s fine. Exept that the image is not centered at all. It’s like if the lens was shift 20cm to the right. It makes it impossible for me to install the ALR101 in the yellow rectangle. Just brought it back to the store, waiting for an exchange from Optoma. Did someone else had a problem like this ?
> (Yes distances to the wall and levels were good, even when I looked inside the lens, I could see something was not completely symmetrical)
> 
> View attachment 3036318
> 
> View attachment 3036319


Mine is not perfectly center as well. Has not been a big deal since I don't have a custom Cabinet like yours. Mine sits on top of the TV stand itself.









Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


----------



## namtech

Hi Forum,

i am new to the forum and i am really getting crazy, had to signup to vent a bit.

I got my 3rd UHZ65UST a few days ago.

The first one had weird fan behavior, it ran really unstable. A few days after arrival it started an additional very high frequent noise that changed with laser dimming. Shortly after that a buzzing noise joined the noise floor. I made some recordings and the seller agreed it is a defect and it needs replacement. Since the unit was brand new they straight out replaced it.

A few days later the second unit arrived. Super quiet fan, no modulating noises from fan but a very annoying electrical hum / buzzing sound - way louder that the one from the first unit. This sound does not change at all, regardless if test pattern is shown, a 1080p signal instead of 4k, HDR or SDR , laser power 50 or 100, dynamical black 1 - 3 - it just buzzes and is audible from sitting distance if is there silence. Again, made recordings, seller agreed it is weird and agreed for 3rd replacement.

Another few days later, have my 3rd unit now in front of me and i am getting grey hairs. The exact same buzzing that seems to originate in middle of unit - i.e if you place your ear right in the middle of the soundbar (note i have the integrated soundbar disabled). It seems totally unrelated to any cabling, positioning, tried moving to another wall socket, disconnected everything, factory resetted thrice now. Nothing. Just a constant buzzing. Seller even took another parcel service for this one as suspected some damage happened during transit in 2nd unit...

Am i that unlucky or am i just overly sensitive to this sound? Is this caused by the shifter technology? Are your UHZ65USTs (or P1 for that matter) having a buzzing noise that is audible from 2,5+m sitting position during absolute silence in a movie? Not talking about the fan noise, that is very different. Was there a faulty series of defective produced UHZ65UST and they are all in my sellers storage?

Think i have to replace another time or live with the sound..if it is normal.....

-namtech


----------



## USTGuy

J Bone said:


> Mine is not perfectly center as well. Has not been a big deal since I don't have a custom Cabinet like yours. Mine sits on top of the TV stand itself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


Looks good. Stop being too analytical 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Casey_Bryson

For prospective P1 owners looking for something a little more budget friendly, you may want to wait for the X1









Optoma(奥图码) X1-Elite


Optoma(奥图码) X1-Elite This is probably the budget UST many forum members are waiting for. It has everything in the specs, and hopefully none of the issues plaguing the P1. Well done.(y) https://www.optoma.com.cn/product/x1-elite/ https://zhuanlan.zhihu.com/p/224974689




www.avsforum.com


----------



## calvinwalfred

If anybody is interested, the Optoma ALR101e screen is going for 449 today at Best Buy. I am not using my P1 with it but I am using my Viewsonic PX800HD with it and it looks great to me.


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

Casey_Bryson said:


> For prospective P1 owners looking for something a little more budget friendly, you may want to wait for the X1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Optoma(奥图码) X1-Elite
> 
> 
> Optoma(奥图码) X1-Elite This is probably the budget UST many forum members are waiting for. It has everything in the specs, and hopefully none of the issues plaguing the P1. Well done.(y) https://www.optoma.com.cn/product/x1-elite/ https://zhuanlan.zhihu.com/p/224974689
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


Nice find, makes sense to see these new models as this PJ was released last year. Interesting times with Samsung joining the party, the prices will come down for sure.


----------



## kalle4242

namtech said:


> Hi Forum,
> 
> i am new to the forum and i am really getting crazy, had to signup to vent a bit.
> 
> I got my 3rd UHZ65UST a few days ago.
> 
> The first one had weird fan behavior, it ran really unstable. A few days after arrival it started an additional very high frequent noise that changed with laser dimming. Shortly after that a buzzing noise joined the noise floor. I made some recordings and the seller agreed it is a defect and it needs replacement. Since the unit was brand new they straight out replaced it.
> 
> A few days later the second unit arrived. Super quiet fan, no modulating noises from fan but a very annoying electrical hum / buzzing sound - way louder that the one from the first unit. This sound does not change at all, regardless if test pattern is shown, a 1080p signal instead of 4k, HDR or SDR , laser power 50 or 100, dynamical black 1 - 3 - it just buzzes and is audible from sitting distance if is there silence. Again, made recordings, seller agreed it is weird and agreed for 3rd replacement.
> 
> Another few days later, have my 3rd unit now in front of me and i am getting grey hairs. The exact same buzzing that seems to originate in middle of unit - i.e if you place your ear right in the middle of the soundbar (note i have the integrated soundbar disabled). It seems totally unrelated to any cabling, positioning, tried moving to another wall socket, disconnected everything, factory resetted thrice now. Nothing. Just a constant buzzing. Seller even took another parcel service for this one as suspected some damage happened during transit in 2nd unit...
> 
> Am i that unlucky or am i just overly sensitive to this sound? Is this caused by the shifter technology? Are your UHZ65USTs (or P1 for that matter) having a buzzing noise that is audible from 2,5+m sitting position during absolute silence in a movie? Not talking about the fan noise, that is very different. Was there a faulty series of defective produced UHZ65UST and they are all in my sellers storage?
> 
> Think i have to replace another time or live with the sound..if it is normal.....
> 
> -namtech


I have my P1 now since October 2019 - no issue regarding noise levels at all (and I am very sensitive regarding noise on all of my electronic devices)


----------



## Mick Seymour

kalle4242 said:


> I have my P1 now since October 2019 - no issue regarding noise levels at all (and I am very sensitive regarding noise on all of my electronic devices)


No noises from my UHZ65UST either. The fan starts noisy during the PJ boot process then becomes very quiet.


----------



## namtech

Mick Seymour said:


> No noises from my UHZ65UST either. The fan starts noisy during the PJ boot process then becomes very quiet.


so no electrical buzzing / humming (with the exception of the fans wind noise) ?

i am really getting crazy and also my seller will probably for the 3rd replacement...


----------



## Mick Seymour

namtech said:


> so no electrical buzzing / humming (with the exception of the fans wind noise) ?
> 
> i am really getting crazy and also my seller will probably for the 3rd replacement...


No buzzing, humming or whining at all.


----------



## namtech

made a new recording from sitting distance. it has gain applied otherwise it was not possible to demonstrate without cranking volume to the extreme.

Recordings are here Optoma buzz/humm


----------



## g4s

namtech said:


> made a new recording from sitting distance. it has gain applied otherwise it was not possible to demonstrate without cranking volume to the extreme.
> 
> Recordings are here Optoma buzz/humm


I've got a first run P1 from October 2019. No buzzing or hum sounds. Hope they're not replacing them with refurbs? That's really weird.


----------



## namtech

g4s said:


> I've got a first run P1 from October 2019. No buzzing or hum sounds. Hope they're not replacing them with refurbs? That's really weird.


it really is. My seller is checking with Optoma now if there is any known issue with the production batch my units are from. The two with the buzz/humm are from the same batch. 

The first one i got was from a way older batch, while it had more severe issues, it had close to zero electrical buzzing.


----------



## arpy911

Not sure how many people are following the P2 thread, but has anyone had issues with an older DirecTV receiver on the P1? I had a P1 for a week but exchanged for a P2 and now I'm having problems.

The picture is terrific with my new AppleTV ... but with my DirectTV Genie receivers -- HR44 -- I'm getting strange flashes of white around the edges of objects when they move on screen, particularly in darker scenes. If I pause and frame by frame it, the flashes still occur. Changing display modes, turning the motion features off, swapping HDMI cables, plugging the HR44 directly into the projector on both the rear HDMI outlets did not eliminate the problem. I am confident it's not an issue with the HR44 because I have two of them and both did the same thing.

Quick video showing the flashes in real time then frame by frame.


----------



## Mick Seymour

Not seen that before although not a Genie user.

I would try turning off PureMotion and Dynamic Black to see if that makes a difference.

If the Genie can output 2160p, try that. I was getting green flashes on my UHZ65UST from my sat box at 1080p but not at 2160p before the last PJ firmware upgrade.

You might also check to see if the PJ has put itself into 3D mode. I only suggest that because my TV always used to ask if 3D mode should be turned on when I fed it with a Raspberry Pi (which wasn't 3D).


----------



## arpy911

Thanks, Mick ... did try Pure Motion off and no dynamic black, plus all the various settings. The Genie I have currently is 1080p (or 1080i), but there's no way to force it to output anything else. Optoma is basically saying the projector is fine but I did not have this issue with the P1 so I'm doubtful it's anything with the DTV equipment. Also tried a newer DTV Mini (2018), same result. Will check the 3D mode, though.


----------



## arpy911

arpy911 said:


> Not sure how many people are following the P2 thread, but has anyone had issues with an older DirecTV receiver on the P1? I had a P1 for a week but exchanged for a P2 and now I'm having problems.
> 
> The picture is terrific with my new AppleTV ... but with my DirectTV Genie receivers -- HR44 -- I'm getting strange flashes of white around the edges of objects when they move on screen, particularly in darker scenes. If I pause and frame by frame it, the flashes still occur. Changing display modes, turning the motion features off, swapping HDMI cables, plugging the HR44 directly into the projector on both the rear HDMI outlets did not eliminate the problem. I am confident it's not an issue with the HR44 because I have two of them and both did the same thing.
> 
> Quick video showing the flashes in real time then frame by frame.


To update my post above, I tried the P2 with a newer DirecTV Mini receiver and had the same issues shown in the above video. Optoma technical support told me to change the EDID on the HDMI ports to 1.4 instead of 2.0 to try to address the problem, that did not have any effect.

In addition, the projector is showing a darker picture on the left half of the screen (a straight line down the middle of the screen denotes the light and dark sides). This appeared to go away after the projector was on for a while.

The upshot is anything on DirecTV with any sort of darker scenes is pretty much unwatchable, brighter material (NFL) is tolerable. Once Upon a Time in Hollywood is what I'm testing with but same issues with some other movies, both live and recorded to the DVR.

Either I got a bum unit or there are some issues here ... I will swap it out with a P1 with everything else the same and see what happens.


----------



## legnaz

Anyone figure how to activate the 3d settings on the projector when using a pc and watching an mkv 3d movie? Everything is greyed out. Thanks


----------



## Mick Seymour

legnaz said:


> Anyone figure how to activate the 3d settings on the projector when using a pc and watching an mkv 3d movie? Everything is greyed out. Thanks


What software are you using to play the movie on the PC?

Is the 3D SBS or TAB and does the player stream them directly to the PJ or convert them? For example, VLC converts SBS to anaglyph (red/green or red/blue) to view with red/green filter glasses which I don't think the PJ supports.


----------



## zekonavsforum

zekonavsforum said:


> Hi,
> 
> I agree : it's time for Optoma PM DUDE to make a come back, for next firmware :
> 
> About the game mode : playing is now possible ( mario kart on switch, rocket league on pc ), but THERE ARE BUGS :
> 
> BUG 1 with HIGH SEVERITY : Exiting game mode is a problem : black screen where nothing is possible, or image cropping (very bottom of image). I have sometime a chance when going back to HOME, where the game mode is disabled. But most of the time, i have to switch off and on the projector...
> BUG 2 with HIGH SEVERITY : Colors and pixels are weird... Try with a computer on windows : fonts become awful, and color backgrounds become weird : some pixels slighlty change their color, like old 8 bit dithering. Flickering/Flashing is very weird : what does this mode do with colors ? Maybe game mode must be force in a specific resolution, color format and depth ( ex : 1080p only, RGB 8 ? ) . Cannot stay in this mode for any other that gaming, movies become awful in this mode
> BUG 3 with MEDIUM SEVERITY : Green tint. It may be fixed quickly I think, because a switch in display mode ( cinema -> reference for exemple ) make the green tint disappear
> BUG 4 with LOW SEVERITY : If gaming mode is enabled for one HDMI input, keep it enable on next startup
> BUG 5 with LOW SEVERITY : Switching time in/out game mode is too loooooong ( ~10 sec )
> I saw some others bugs in comparison to the previous firmwares :
> - BUG 6 with HIGH SEVERITY : movies in 24hz 2160p HDR YCbCr 420: now there are image disconnection/reconnection during a movie : ~10 times the screen becomes black during 1 seconde.... Cannot be acceptable for a dedicated movie projector.... I have a PCHC with radeon RX470, certified-hdmi high spped cable, and had no problem with previous firmware for 6 months...
> 
> Help us Optoma PM DUDE


Still no news from Optoma PM DUDE since 9 days... Just pinged it on reddit too, waiting for news..


----------



## oneil50

BUG 7 : for some Android box, (NVIDIA Shield for exemple), HDR looks darker and switching cinema, bright, natural or others image setting doesn't works. Many image disconnect and instability too. (YUV 4.2.0 10 and 12bit). 
I tried Xiaomi mibox 3 and firetv 4k, image setting in HDR works fine...
My ub420 works fine for all with YUV 4.4.4 12 bit.

BUG 8 : Dynamic black works fine but some "red" tint appears while a short time when image is switching for bright to dark.

BUG 9 : I mesured max lumens HDR with DB 1 @29FTL and max lumens power 100% @23 FTL...

Someone is using zidoo player with the p1 ? Everything works ?





Envoyé de mon AC2003 en utilisant Tapatalk


----------



## arpy911

arpy911 said:


> Not sure how many people are following the P2 thread, but has anyone had issues with an older DirecTV receiver on the P1? I had a P1 for a week but exchanged for a P2 and now I'm having problems.
> 
> The picture is terrific with my new AppleTV ... but with my DirectTV Genie receivers -- HR44 -- I'm getting strange flashes of white around the edges of objects when they move on screen, particularly in darker scenes. If I pause and frame by frame it, the flashes still occur. Changing display modes, turning the motion features off, swapping HDMI cables, plugging the HR44 directly into the projector on both the rear HDMI outlets did not eliminate the problem. I am confident it's not an issue with the HR44 because I have two of them and both did the same thing.
> 
> Quick video showing the flashes in real time then frame by frame.


If anyone cares ... going back to the P1 fixed the flashing white display issues with DirecTV. P2 is going to have to go back. Caveat emptor if you're thinking of upgrading.


----------



## Jan L

oneil50 said:


> BUG 7 : for some Android box, (NVIDIA Shield for exemple), HDR looks darker and switching cinema, bright, natural or others image setting doesn't works. Many image disconnect and instability too. (YUV 4.2.0 10 and 12bit).
> I tried Xiaomi mibox 3 and firetv 4k, image setting in HDR works fine...
> My ub420 works fine for all with YUV 4.4.4 12 bit.
> 
> BUG 8 : Dynamic black works fine but some "red" tint appears while a short time when image is switching for bright to dark.
> 
> BUG 9 : I mesured max lumens HDR with DB 1 @29FTL and max lumens power 100% @23 FTL...
> 
> Someone is using zidoo player with the p1 ? Everything works ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Envoyé de mon AC2003 en utilisant Tapatalk


Regarding Bug 8:
During my many tries to calibrate with dynamic black turned on, i can recommend lowering Red Offset to -3 and Green offset to -2... depending on your whites, Same for blue. It was clearly visible that the darker the Image gets the Red tint increased and in Maximum brightness, Green tint. Blacks also seem to improve.

My Main issue is still color Banding in YouTube and Low quality streams. Cant get rid of it except for drastically decresing brightness and or contrast. Thats my Second unit already, Same issue.

Could someone Checkout Hotline Bling from Drake in YouTube to Check If the colors are Display correct? Thanks


----------



## namtech

namtech said:


> Hi Forum,
> 
> i am new to the forum and i am really getting crazy, had to signup to vent a bit.
> 
> I got my 3rd UHZ65UST a few days ago.
> 
> The first one had weird fan behavior, it ran really unstable. A few days after arrival it started an additional very high frequent noise that changed with laser dimming. Shortly after that a buzzing noise joined the noise floor. I made some recordings and the seller agreed it is a defect and it needs replacement. Since the unit was brand new they straight out replaced it.
> 
> A few days later the second unit arrived. Super quiet fan, no modulating noises from fan but a very annoying electrical hum / buzzing sound - way louder that the one from the first unit. This sound does not change at all, regardless if test pattern is shown, a 1080p signal instead of 4k, HDR or SDR , laser power 50 or 100, dynamical black 1 - 3 - it just buzzes and is audible from sitting distance if is there silence. Again, made recordings, seller agreed it is weird and agreed for 3rd replacement.
> 
> Another few days later, have my 3rd unit now in front of me and i am getting grey hairs. The exact same buzzing that seems to originate in middle of unit - i.e if you place your ear right in the middle of the soundbar (note i have the integrated soundbar disabled). It seems totally unrelated to any cabling, positioning, tried moving to another wall socket, disconnected everything, factory resetted thrice now. Nothing. Just a constant buzzing. Seller even took another parcel service for this one as suspected some damage happened during transit in 2nd unit...
> 
> Am i that unlucky or am i just overly sensitive to this sound? Is this caused by the shifter technology? Are your UHZ65USTs (or P1 for that matter) having a buzzing noise that is audible from 2,5+m sitting position during absolute silence in a movie? Not talking about the fan noise, that is very different. Was there a faulty series of defective produced UHZ65UST and they are all in my sellers storage?
> 
> Think i have to replace another time or live with the sound..if it is normal.....
> 
> -namtech


Some updates.

My seller (a Optoma Partner in Germany) said that after going back and forth with his contact at Optoma, they admitted (wording in between the lines) that some parts are built differently in latest UHZ65UST batches and after having listenend to my recordings they said it was all inside factoring tolerance level. That was wording from his Partner contact - I call huge BS on that factoring tolerance stuff if the Unit is THAT audible from sitting distance. A reply from Support is still pending but i doubt that support would say any different

Looking for solutions, my seller sent me a older refurbished Unit (some cosmetical issues) and that one, surprise, is dead quiet.
No humm, no buzz - just some non intrusive fan hush. BUT this one now has a horizontal picture shift of like 6cm (besides its vertical shift is also much higher than the noisy units ) - which pretty much messes with my needs for symmetry, as my center speaker was supposed to sit below center of screen and not below the Pj.

I really like the UHZ65UST but i am have the feeling i am playing in a lottery - if that all is attributed to factoring tolerance i have really no mood to shift e.g. the position of my screen once the unit breaks down and gets replaced. Also considering that newer Units are much louder, it is worrisome if that one should ever break down. Also reading first reports here about P2 issues i am seriously considering moving back to a TV (something like a LG CX maybe) and wait for 1 or 2 more UST generations before reattempting.

I have to decided today if i want to keep the refurbished unit or return completely, envy all you guys who were lucky with their units and having a great experience.


----------



## RobinsonCrusoe

namtech said:


> I really like the UHZ65UST but i am have the feeling i am playing in a lottery - if that all is attributed to factoring tolerance i have really no mood to shift e.g. the position of my screen once the unit breaks down and gets replaced.


I experienced humming, too. Optoma Service checked it and it was the color wheel which made the noise. They replaced it and my unit is quiet now. Fan noise never was a problem.

By the way: My Dolby Vision problems with Apple TV 4K (short picture freezes) are gone now with TvOS 14. I hope it stays that way.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

namtech said:


> made a new recording from sitting distance. it has gain applied otherwise it was not possible to demonstrate without cranking volume to the extreme.
> 
> Recordings are here Optoma buzz/humm


That sounds like XPR doing it's thing with some fan noise laced in. I think BenQ has a silent mode that turns off XPR and the 4K that comes with it.


----------



## namtech

Casey_Bryson said:


> That sounds like XPR doing it's thing with some fan noise laced in. I think BenQ has a silent mode that turns off XPR and the 4K that comes with it.


could be, probably. However this noise is something older production batches do not have it seems. My refurbished old production batch unit is now dead silent.
Also decided to keep the refurbished one - seller said the wrongly horizontal aligned offset was common issue in older units and technically it "could" be corrected, however after i installed my ALR Screen (100" XY Screen Pet Crystal) and aligned the PJ below it, it does not disturb me as much as I expected.


----------



## USTGuy

Very disappointed. Selling mine for damage control 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Smokey100

Optoma Cinemax P1 tint keeps shifting.
I posted about this six months ago and then again three months ago. While watching some shows, the tint keeps shifting on my P1. I sent it in for repair, Optima replaced a part but the tint still shifts. It doesn't happen with all programming. It happens when watching Kim's Convenience, a Canadian comedy that just won a bunch of Emmys. It happens while streaming through my Apple TV 4K and my Fire Stick 4K. It doesn't happen when I'm watching on an old Vizio TV. Is anyone else experiencing this? Any solutions?
Thanks,
Smokey100


----------



## Jan L

Smokey100 said:


> Optoma Cinemax P1 tint keeps shifting.
> I posted about this six months ago and then again three months ago. While watching some shows, the tint keeps shifting on my P1. I sent it in for repair, Optima replaced a part but the tint still shifts. It doesn't happen with all programming. It happens when watching Kim's Convenience, a Canadian comedy that just won a bunch of Emmys. It happens while streaming through my Apple TV 4K and my Fire Stick 4K. It doesn't happen when I'm watching on an old Vizio TV. Is anyone else experiencing this? Any solutions?
> Thanks,
> Smokey100


Read my Post.


----------



## klas

Ofir Kris said:


> Is this True 4K or pixel shifting?


Pixel shifter


----------



## Casey_Bryson

klas said:


> Pixel shifter



Calling it pixel shifting is a disservice to XPR!

XPR technically is pixel shifting but unlike JVC's and Epson's versions which are poor doublers. XPR is technically 4K and single chip DLP XPR is arguably superior to SXRD and D-ILA Native 4K offerings.


----------



## Frank714

Casey_Bryson said:


> XPR technically is pixel shifting but unlike JVC's and Epson's versions which are poor doublers.


Quadruplers would be accurate, i.e. 1.920 x 1.080 x 4.

Only the larger Texas Instruments 0.66" 4K XPR DMD is a "doubler"









Image quality: 4k pixel shift vs Actual 4k


What exactly is the difference in perceptible image quality on a 110-120 screen from 12 feet away? I want to move to 4k from my Epson 3000. But being budget conscious, I want to ensure there is a noticeable difference. Can you give me some suggestions as to why I should pick 4k over pixel...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## gene9p

anyone using an on wall painted screen and what did you use??

thanks


----------



## oneil50

Any news about a new firmware ? 
It was annonced for september....
60 FPS Bug is really annoying

Envoyé de mon AC2003 en utilisant Tapatalk


----------



## Frank714

https://www.optoma.com/us/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/CinemaX-P1_UM.pdf



Couldn't help but notice on Page 28 that Optoma apparently did consider to provide the P1 with a "3D Sync" VESA port for an RF Emitter..

Page 33: _Set the 3D tech. parameter to “DLP-Link” or “Standard”_ (previosly "3D Sync"...cough)

Let me guess, setting it to "Standard" will either do nothing or just the same as "DLP-Link". 

(I think it's safe to assume that the P1 does not feature an _internal_ 3D-RF emitter…right?)

Did ANYONE use a screwdriver to find out what's behind the little panel on the left side of the input field just below the DLP/4K/HDR letters? 
EDIT: Looks only like a panel in the user manual but is probably the space for the product sticker on the actual unit..


----------



## namtech

oneil50 said:


> Any news about a new firmware ?
> It was annonced for september....
> 60 FPS Bug is really annoying
> 
> Envoyé de mon AC2003 en utilisant Tapatalk


Considering their focus on the P2 - lets hope they dont abandon the firmware development for the P1 completely.
Optoma Dude is missing since weeks, he could probably tell...


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Frank714 said:


> https://www.optoma.com/us/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/CinemaX-P1_UM.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> Couldn't help but notice on Page 28 that Optoma apparently did consider to provide the P1 with a "3D Sync" VESA port for an RF Emitter..
> 
> Page 33: _Set the 3D tech. parameter to “DLP-Link” or “Standard”_ (previosly "3D Sync"...cough)
> 
> Let me guess, setting it to "Standard" will either do nothing or just the same as "DLP-Link".
> 
> (I think it's safe to assume that the P1 does not feature an _internal_ 3D-RF emitter…right?)
> 
> Did ANYONE use a screwdriver to find out what's behind the little panel on the left side of the input field just below the DLP/4K/HDR letters?
> EDIT: Looks only like a panel in the user manual but is probably the space for the product sticker on the actual unit..


On the P2 it has the same 3D tech options (DLP Link and 3D sync) and it doesn't matter which option you choose--it's still outputting DLP Link signal. Guess they didn't bother to update it🙄


----------



## Frank714

Just posted the question in the P2 thread, but realize now you've already answered it. 

Too bad, that there is apparently a problem with the DLP Link performance of your P2. Might have been smart of Optoma to equip the P2 with an internal 3D-RF Emitter (like Sony) to use 3D-RF glasses as a fallback option (not to mention the superior comfort of 3D-RF technology), provided of course they'd take a look at the still commercially available 3D-RF glasses (and most definitely *not *their original "Bit Cauldron" proprietary technology, add to this that the old Optoma 3D-RF glasses are hard to find these days).


----------



## USTGuy

The only thing that I will truly miss about the P1 is its fantastic 3D quality

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## calvinwalfred

USTGuy said:


> The only thing that I will truly miss about the P1 is its fantastic 3D quality
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


It's that good huh. I have not even tried 3D on mine Guess I'll give it try soon.


----------



## USTGuy

calvinwalfred said:


> It's that good huh. I have not even tried 3D on mine Guess I'll give it try soon.


Best active DLP link in my opinion. Comparable to my 3D on OLED TV.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## calvinwalfred

USTGuy said:


> Best active DLP link in my opinion. Comparable to my 3D on OLED TV.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Guess I'll be picking up some DLP link glasses soon. Any recommendations?


----------



## USTGuy

calvinwalfred said:


> Guess I'll be picking up some DLP link glasses soon. Any recommendations?








Amazon.com: Ultra-Clear HD 144 Hz DLP Link 3D Active Rechargeable Shutter Glasses for All 3D DLP Projectors - BenQ, Optoma, Dell, Mitsubishi, Samsung, Acer, Vivitek, NEC, Sharp, ViewSonic & Endless Others!: Electronics


Amazon.com: Ultra-Clear HD 144 Hz DLP Link 3D Active Rechargeable Shutter Glasses for All 3D DLP Projectors - BenQ, Optoma, Dell, Mitsubishi, Samsung, Acer, Vivitek, NEC, Sharp, ViewSonic & Endless Others!: Electronics



www.amazon.com





Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

Any of you guys sometimes get half the screen totally black? Could it be HDMI cable related? 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## calvinwalfred

USTGuy said:


> Any of you guys sometimes get half the screen totally black? Could it be HDMI cable related?
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


On mine half the screen was lighter than the other half when I was changing gamma settings. It happened only once. Your buyer is having that issue? Dang it, I should have picked up that 2nd P1. LOL


----------



## USTGuy

calvinwalfred said:


> On mine half the screen was lighter than the other half when I was changing gamma settings. It happened only once. Your buyer is having that issue? Dang it, I should have picked up that 2nd P1. LOL


Yes. He just got my P1 last night and I was helping him set it up. He said screen went half black. 
I had instances where that happened to me when changing gamma or color temperature, but only briefly, not to the extent of half the screen remaining black for good 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## calvinwalfred

USTGuy said:


> Yes. He just got my P1 last night and I was helping him set it up. He said screen went half black.
> I had instances where that happened to me when changing gamma or color temperature, but only briefly, not to the extent of half the screen remaining black for good
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Oh noooo! Well that is not good. Hopefully things work out.


----------



## USTGuy

calvinwalfred said:


> Oh noooo! Well that is not good. Hopefully things work out.


He powered off/on and that worked. I told him to get new HDMI cables for starters.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## Casey_Bryson

USTGuy said:


> He powered off/on and that worked. I told him to get new HDMI cables for starters.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


It's not the cable. It happens on the P2 as well and has been a known issue from the start with P1's


----------



## USTGuy

Casey_Bryson said:


> It's not the cable. It happens on the P2 as well and has been a known issue from the start with P1's


Yes. Occasionally and for a few seconds perhaps.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## namtech

Jan L said:


> Regarding Bug 8:
> During my many tries to calibrate with dynamic black turned on, i can recommend lowering Red Offset to -3 and Green offset to -2... depending on your whites, Same for blue. It was clearly visible that the darker the Image gets the Red tint increased and in Maximum brightness, Green tint. Blacks also seem to improve.
> 
> My Main issue is still color Banding in YouTube and Low quality streams. Cant get rid of it except for drastically decresing brightness and or contrast. Thats my Second unit already, Same issue.
> 
> Could someone Checkout Hotline Bling from Drake in YouTube to Check If the colors are Display correct? Thanks


did you find a fix besides lowering contract and brightness for the banding? 
Tried to watch "Despicable Me" on ATV4K in 4K & HDR, the movie shows extreme banding in blue color sky and most of the characters faces. It looks much better if HDR is disabled. Currently i am using the calibration settings from Heimkinoraum Germany, but i have to lower contrast drastically to make this watchable. 

Tried even without AVR in between and on another HDMI port.

Another example: Guardians of the galaxy, when they travel in Egos ship with that organic white/yellow interior, the yellow areas show extreme banding.

Hardware issue or just badly calibrated? Everything looks just better with HDR disabled.


----------



## Jan L

namtech said:


> did you find a fix besides lowering contract and brightness for the banding?
> Tried to watch "Despicable Me" on ATV4K in 4K & HDR, the movie shows extreme banding in blue color sky and most of the characters faces. It looks much better if HDR is disabled. Currently i am using the calibration settings from Heimkinoraum Germany, but i have to lower contrast drastically to make this watchable.
> 
> Tried even without AVR in between and on another HDMI port.
> 
> Another example: Guardians of the galaxy, when they travel in Egos ship with that organic white/yellow interior, the yellow areas show extreme banding.
> 
> Hardware issue or just badly calibrated? Everything looks just better with HDR disabled.


I sent the first to optoma and they said its a Hardware issue, but i never got the unit Back to see If they could fix it. I Had to wait 2 month before my reseller apologized and gave me a new unit.

I guess its a mixture of issues and comes from the Image quality Booster like brilliant color, high contrast and so on ... sometimes i even get it right, then restart the unit and suddenly the issues come Back. Hardware + Software misalignment.

When watching hdr, playing PC Games or real BluRay the issue is almost not noticeable (the better the content)

For Bad/banding faces mostly its enough to pause the video and decrease Red gain and saturation until its gone.

In Case you have Android TV, Download the TV calibration App and Open the Gradient Test Image. Just increasing the Green gain by +-1 or Others colors, adds or moves visible Bars of a different tint..its Just never smooth, except If you disable brilliant color and contrast. I more and more want a Triple laser RGB Projector :-(

Im also Always wondering why no one Here in this Forum seems to expierience this!?


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Frank714 said:


> Quadruplers would be accurate, i.e. 1.920 x 1.080 x 4.
> 
> Only the larger Texas Instruments 0.66" 4K XPR DMD is a "doubler"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Image quality: 4k pixel shift vs Actual 4k
> 
> 
> What exactly is the difference in perceptible image quality on a 110-120 screen from 12 feet away? I want to move to 4k from my Epson 3000. But being budget conscious, I want to ensure there is a noticeable difference. Can you give me some suggestions as to why I should pick 4k over pixel...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


No that's not quite right. 

The .66 shifts just like Epson and JVC. The difference is that it's starting with 4.1 million pixels as the DMD is 2716x1528 instead of 1920x1080.

Both the .66 and the .47 DLP display 8.3 million unique addressable pixels. 









Native 4K vs True 4K vs 1080p Pixel Shift in 4K Projectors


This article discusses the Native 4K vs True 4K vs 1080p Pixel Shift in 4K Projectors, including operation principle of wobulation or e-shift or Pixel Shifting, Four-Phase and Two-Phase Pixel Shifting, 0.66" and 0.47" DMD chips, etc. The article also contains video showing the world's first JVC...



theappliancesreviews.com


----------



## USTGuy

When I had my Optoma P1 I always notice that contrast in 4K HDR mode had to be lowered significantly or else bright highlights would be blown out of balance

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## namtech

USTGuy said:


> When I had my Optoma P1 I always notice that contrast in 4K HDR mode had to be lowered significantly or else bright highlights would be blown out of balance
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


Still looks weird. Reseller spoke with Optoma, they said it could be lowered bitrate and i should test with UHD disc. I think its the hardware or software.

with DB1









DB off


----------



## USTGuy

namtech said:


> Still looks weird. Reseller spoke with Optoma, they said it could be lowered bitrate and i should test with UHD disc. I think its the hardware or software.
> 
> with DB1
> View attachment 3044513
> 
> 
> DB off
> View attachment 3044514


Nothing to do with low bitrate. With 4K HDR blurays it's the same thing: either sacrifice some contrast to scoop out more details or choose a more contrasty picture and sacrifice bright highlights.

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

USTGuy said:


> Nothing to do with low bitrate. With 4K HDR blurays it's the same thing: either sacrifice some contrast to scoop out more details or choose a more contrasty picture and sacrifice bright highlights.
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


This is my experience too and isn't dynamic black still broke? I noticed it got noticeably darker after 15 to 20 minutes. If I set it to brightest and then back to dynamic black everything would be good for another 15 or 20 minutes. I thought there was going to be a software update to address this but their husband a lack of communication from optoma lately.

On my 1.0/1.1 11 year old Firehawk (no ALR) the settings out of the box where pretty much spot on but due to a white ceiling it was like a disco ball. Once I got my UST ALR Grandview, I noticed that for me, brightness had to be set to around -3 while contrast is at +2 depending on the material for SDR material. Usually -1 brightness and +1, maybe 2 for HDR material. 

I got about three days to okay with my HDFury Diva and it's pretty amazing, obviously not cheap but can inject custom HDR, tricks my shield I to thinking the P1 is Dolby Vision capable, the dynamically remaps the color tones to HDR10, with cust LLDV injection so you can set different settings. It does the same for SDR material (great for concerting SDR to custom HDR with animation and detailed non HDR 4k content. I still find myself constantly tweaking the P1 picture settings. I'm done with dynamic black until I get it fixed. It seems to be the best by far but something happens after about 20 minutes that just darkens the picture too much. I find most material to look good in either warm color or cold color which is odd because I typically like normal to warm depending on the projector. 

Essentially I get all formats now which no display can do thanks to Samsung. It's not cheap, but it also bitstreams HBR audio formats up to atmos to non ARC receivers via dedicated audio output (also capable of 1080p or 720p video also). My non ARC pioneer only goes Dolby true HD and DTS MA but still much better then DD+. A third hdmi output will do up to 4K 30fps or 1080p while remapping HDR to SDR. Four inputs, matrix so any input to any of the two video hdmi outputs. I believe it will do 4K 60fpd HDR over the second display output if the first one is not in use. I wanted to get the Arcana but it's completely built on ARC/EARC as it will do manual LLDV injection but not the bells and whistles that you get with the diva and I'm kind of glad I got the diva instead. Not a single drop out, audio is on sync, everything just works. Oh, and a built in latency yester also so going to do some testing if it works on a UST projector. It's even turned my 2017 vizio m55 look much better, almost like a new display. That and monthly, sometimes twice a month fw updates, some to fix issues with a specific device so great at adding features for older models also which you usually never get.

Not sure if Google photos links work but same video back to back, source, shield 2019 pro, YouTube search for "4K HDR demo", first one has manual HDR injection, the second does not. Display is 2017 Vizio M55 so much bigger difference on the P1.










HDFury Diva


New item · Album by Josh Fisher




photos.app.goo.gl







Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## namtech

diggumsmax said:


> On my 1.0/1.1 11 year old Firehawk (no ALR) the settings out of the box where pretty much spot on but due to a white ceiling it was like a disco ball. Once I got my UST ALR Grandview, I noticed that for me, brightness had to be set to around -3 while contrast is at +2 depending on the material for SDR material. Usually -1 brightness and +1, maybe 2 for HDR material.


i have to lower contrast to like -15 to remove any banding in HDR. I am still convinced this is a more extreme issue in my case. As soon as DB is active, there is banding almost everywhere, didnt notice anything like that in the units i owned previously. Power 100 sometimes is smooth but sometimes also showing the banding. Also on the same frame, it is totally inconsistent behavior.


----------



## RobinsonCrusoe

Billiant Color is the first thing i lowered to 1 to get rid of the banding. Yep, Dynamic Black tends to band in highlights but it´s ok if you don´t raise the normal contrast setting too high.


----------



## namtech

RobinsonCrusoe said:


> Billiant Color is the first thing i lowered to 1 to get rid of the banding. Yep, Dynamic Black tends to band in highlights but it´s ok if you don´t raise the normal contrast setting too high.


That should not be necessary. Seller Heimkinoraum is saying that this is not normal and they not aware of banding issues i described. Also their own calibration sets this to way higher values.


----------



## USTGuy

namtech said:


> i have to lower contrast to like -15 to remove any banding in HDR. I am still convinced this is a more extreme issue in my case. As soon as DB is active, there is banding almost everywhere, didnt notice anything like that in the units i owned previously. Power 100 sometimes is smooth but sometimes also showing the banding. Also on the same frame, it is totally inconsistent behavior.


This is an issue related to HDR tone mapping

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## namtech

USTGuy said:


> This is an issue related to HDR tone mapping
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


As i wrote, i did not encounter this with the previous UHZ65UST's i had, this is my 4th Unit. the 3 other ones i returned due to buzzing.


----------



## diggumsmax

namtech said:


> i have to lower contrast to like -15 to remove any banding in HDR. I am still convinced this is a more extreme issue in my case. As soon as DB is active, there is banding almost everywhere, didnt notice anything like that in the units i owned previously. Power 100 sometimes is smooth but sometimes also showing the banding. Also on the same frame, it is totally inconsistent behavior.


Having to set the contrast that low just doesn't sound right and doesn't make any sense, especially compared to past experiences with the different model

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## USTGuy

diggumsmax said:


> Having to set the contrast that low just doesn't sound right and doesn't make any sense, especially compared to past experiences with the different model
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Not lowering contrast results in loss of a lot of bright details. It's a constant act of balancing contrast vs bright details. It can get frustrating when watching HDR content 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

USTGuy said:


> Not lowering contrast results in loss of a lot of bright details. It's a constant act of balancing contrast vs bright details. It can get frustrating when watching HDR content
> 
> Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


It's an odd thing to complain about bit there are almost to many settings. This is in no way a bad thing but I find myself constantly tweaking the picture, especially HDR vs SDR material 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## ExReey

I've been using my UHZ65UST for a month now, when it suddenly died today.
Well, it boots, but the only thing it shows is a black screen with a white, vertical band on the right side:










The projector doesn't respond on anything anymore. I tried plugging it out for an hour, but the problem persists.
Is there anything I can do?


----------



## diggumsmax

ExReey said:


> I've been using my UHZ65UST for a month now, when it suddenly died today.
> Well, it boots, but the only thing it shows is a black screen with a white, vertical band on the right side:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The projector doesn't respond on anything anymore. I tried plugging it out for an hour, but the problem persists.
> Is there anything I can do?


I had android crash once although the message was pretty descriptive. I downloaded it and reinstalled it and everything started working although this is different than what I ran into as it was the default android crash page.

You can reload andeoid but not the firmware. As painful as it may be a factory reset wouldn't hurt. I would just take screenshots or write down all your settings before you do. I would also unplug any HDMI inputs and just see if you can get to the Optoma home screen to roll out any input potential issues. Have you tried a different port?

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## ExReey

diggumsmax said:


> I had android crash once although the message was pretty descriptive. I downloaded it and reinstalled it and everything started working although this is different than what I ran into as it was the default android crash page.
> 
> You can reload andeoid but not the firmware. As painful as it may be a factory reset wouldn't hurt. I would just take screenshots or write down all your settings before you do. I would also unplug any HDMI inputs and just see if you can get to the Optoma home screen to roll out any input potential issues. Have you tried a different port?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Thanks fot the reply.

The problem is: I can't get to the home screen anymore. All HMDI and other cables are unplugged (except power).
How can I factory reset when I can't get to the home screen?


----------



## Mick Seymour

I'd suggest an email to Optoma support.


----------



## diggumsmax

ExReey said:


> Thanks fot the reply.
> 
> The problem is: I can't get to the home screen anymore. All HMDI and other cables are unplugged (except power).
> How can I factory reset when I can't get to the home screen?


I agree, contact Optoma. That is really odd behavior. Here are the instructions for reinstalling but if you are already on the latest version then I personally would not try this before talking to Optoma as they have better troubleshooting steps. Android simply crashed on mine, Same error you would see on the phone so different then what you are getting.


----------



## ExReey

diggumsmax said:


> I agree, contact Optoma. That is really odd behavior. Here are the instructions for reinstalling but if you are already on the latest version then I personally would not try this before talking to Optoma as they have better troubleshooting steps. Android simply crashed on mine, Same error you would see on the phone so different then what you are getting.


Thanks for the link.
I tried the latest system upgrade yesterday allready, and it didn't change anything.

I guess I'll have to return it to Optoma, which sucks because I bought it on some webstore here in Belgium, and returning items can take weeks or even months.


----------



## oneil50

Hello,
Initially I have a Nvidia shield TV which I noticed that the auto mapping was not working properly. Indeed, changing the video mode in HDR did not affect the image and this one look darker than that provided by my bluray player.
I decided to buy a zidoo player, the final result of the image is much brighter, the automapping works wonderfully and above all I no longer have any HDMI dropout for the moment.
Next step, buy a Fire TV for VOD services and sell my Shield.


----------



## akm3

I can no longer get the soundbar to make sound. Is there anything obvious it could be? I normally don't use the soundbar, but I tested it when I got it and it worked, now I'm going back to it and it just will not make sound. I normally use speakers connected to my Denon receiver.I have sound turned to "on" in the Projector menu. I looked for but couldn't find a setting on the Denon that did something like "don't send sound out HDMI"


----------



## diggumsmax

akm3 said:


> I can no longer get the soundbar to make sound. Is there anything obvious it could be? I normally don't use the soundbar, but I tested it when I got it and it worked, now I'm going back to it and it just will not make sound. I normally use speakers connected to my Denon receiver.I have sound turned to "on" in the Projector menu. I looked for but couldn't find a setting on the Denon that did something like "don't send sound out HDMI"


Menu then third or fourth tab to the right has the audio options and there is an option to just turn on the sound bar so hopefully that's the issue

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Kdub69

Off topic here but has anyone set up alexa with their optoma p1? For example do you control it if so is there a guide on doing this?


----------



## zekonavsforum

Optoma PM DUDE : no news from too much time ! Do we have to consider that a 3000€ projector from Optoma is getting only 1 update, and Optoma forget remaining bugs ?

Maybe I have to warn Optoma P2 buyers with the remaining bugs... ?

Please answer us quickly for the next P1 firmware that will correct the last bugs



zekonavsforum said:


> Still no news from Optoma PM DUDE since 9 days... Just pinged it on reddit too, waiting for news..


----------



## namtech

zekonavsforum said:


> Optoma PM DUDE : no news from too much time ! Do we have to consider that a 3000€ projector from Optoma is getting only 1 update, and Optoma forget remaining bugs ?
> 
> Maybe I have to warn Optoma P2 buyers with the remaining bugs... ?
> 
> Please answer us quickly for the next P1 firmware that will correct the last bugs


i pinged him a PM on reddit a few weeks ago, asking to at least post a sign of life here. 
No response either.


----------



## zekonavsforum

namtech said:


> i pinged him a PM on reddit a few weeks ago, asking to at least post a sign of life here.
> No response either.


I've just done same thing on reddit, waiting. Is there some others than namtech and I who want news and update ? The more we are, the best chance we can have to get an update... If more than 10 owners, I will tweet Optoma


----------



## Mick Seymour

Another user waiting.

I have a problem where powering off with the internal speakers muted, it will not come out of mute. The first power on afterwards, unmute shows the volume back to where I usually have it but no sound. It needs a second, or the other day, a third restart to fix it. I reported it to Optoma support last week.

Yesterday, I used the long press menu to switch HDMI ports. The Mute option on that menu changed to Unmute and then a few seconds later back to Mute again.

@OPTOMA PM DUDE said a while back that they were expecting there to be more frequent updates. We had C14.3 some time ago and since then, nothing.


----------



## Kev1000000

Remember when @OPTOMA PM DUDE said the next firmware to fix the green tint on gaming mode (among other things) was due out at the end of August? Pepperidge Farm remembers.


----------



## Christian Spiga

I never spend so much for a beamer, i decide to buy Optoma because is a brand that produce projector since long time. I spend € 3299 for the optoma uhz65ust.
I will wait the day after the expire of the guarantee to give back, hoping that in 1 year they produce a model without defect, because i'm sure that the problem is hardware this is why is so difficult to solve with a firmware upgrade.
I WILL NEVER BUY ANYMORE.


----------



## joker2005

HLG ist in der Werbung für den Projektor, funktioniert aber nicht 
Danke für Ihre Auswahl an Optoma Deutschland.

Der Projektor Optoma UHZ65UST wird HLG über HDMI leider nicht, weil diese Funktion in diesem Modell nicht beeinflusst wurde.
Ich kläre mit dem Engineering ob die HLG über HDMI-Funktion in weiter Firmware-Übersichten für die Einführung gehört, und melde mich bei Ihnen.

Mit freundlichen Grüßen

*Dmitry Chelnokov*
Technischer Produktspezialist


----------



## Mick Seymour

Here is a Google translation of the @joker2005 post.

HLG is in the advertisement for the projector but does not work
Thank you for choosing Optoma Germany.

The Optoma UHZ65UST projector will unfortunately not use HLG over HDMI because this function was not affected in this model.
I will clarify with the engineering team whether the HLG via HDMI function should be included in further firmware overviews for the introduction, and I will contact you.

Best regards


----------



## namtech

Mick Seymour said:


> Here is a Google translation of the @joker2005 post.
> 
> HLG is in the advertisement for the projector but does not work
> Thank you for choosing Optoma Germany.
> 
> The Optoma UHZ65UST projector will unfortunately not use HLG over HDMI because this function was not affected in this model.
> I will clarify with the engineering team whether the HLG via HDMI function should be included in further firmware overviews for the introduction, and I will contact you.
> 
> Best regards


"firmware overviews" .-) what a teaser.....


----------



## oneil50

I am also waiting for this new update. 
Which Android box are you using for watching your VOD services ? 
Do you have HDR tone mapping issues ? When I switch to detail, movie or standard, nothing change with NVIDIA Shield and HDR is dark.
I try mibox 3 with Android TV 8 everything works fine, but After Android TV 9 update the problem is same than Shield box.
I think Android 9 is the problem.
I tried fire TV too using HDMI on my Pioneer amp, switching SDR to HDR bug. No issue on projector HDMI....


Envoyé de mon AC2003 en utilisant Tapatalk


----------



## Sam Ash

Any reviews out there? or is anyone already using one?


----------



## namtech

oneil50 said:


> I am also waiting for this new update.
> Which Android box are you using for watching your VOD services ?
> Do you have HDR tone mapping issues ? When I switch to detail, movie or standard, nothing change with NVIDIA Shield and HDR is dark.
> I try mibox 3 with Android TV 8 everything works fine, but After Android TV 9 update the problem is same than Shield box.
> I think Android 9 is the problem.
> I tried fire TV too using HDMI on my Pioneer amp, switching SDR to HDR bug. No issue on projector HDMI....
> 
> 
> Envoyé de mon AC2003 en utilisant Tapatalk


FireTV Cube (German Content: Prime / Netflix ), FireTV Stick(US Content> US Prime / US Netflix / Hulu / HBO Max), ATV4K, Panasonic UB824, German Telekom IPTV Receiver, PS4, Nintendo Switch :: via Denon X4400h

No issues with HDR itself (i have other technical issues with color banding though) with the exception that with both FireTV Cube and FireTV Stick the P1 sometimes fail to switch back to SDR after when i had a HDR signal on the ATV4K running.


----------



## oneil50

namtech said:


> FireTV Cube (German Content: Prime / Netflix ), FireTV Stick(US Content> US Prime / US Netflix / Hulu / HBO Max), ATV4K, Panasonic UB824, German Telekom IPTV Receiver, PS4, Nintendo Switch :: via Denon X4400h
> 
> No issues with HDR itself (i have other technical issues with color banding though) with the exception that with both FireTV Cube and FireTV Stick the P1 sometimes fail to switch back to SDR after when i had a HDR signal on the ATV4K running.


Thanks for the answer. Got banding too with 8bit HDMI setting but no issue on 10 and 12 bit. 
What are your HDMI setting of your fire TV ?

Envoyé de mon AC2003 en utilisant Tapatalk


----------



## namtech

oneil50 said:


> Thanks for the answer. Got banding too with 8bit HDMI setting but no issue on 10 and 12 bit.
> What are your HDMI setting of your fire TV ?
> 
> Envoyé de mon AC2003 en utilisant Tapatalk


Depth up to 12bit, RGB, 4k 60(auto), HDR Adaptive


----------



## oneil50

namtech said:


> Depth up to 12bit, RGB, 4k 60(auto), HDR Adaptive


Thanks. 
My test with the same AMP/HDMI câble :

Zidoo = no issue and good HDR switch/tone mapping, any image drop
Shield = Good HDR switch but Bad tone mapping and some image drop @4K60Hz
Fire TV = some HDR switch fail, good tone mapping, any image drop
BD player = no issue and good HDR switch/tone mapping, some image drop @4K60HZ.
Mibox 3 = On android TV 8 : no issue and good HDR switch/tone mapping, some image flickering. On Android TV 9 : same than Shield TV.

All was stable with C12 and was working properly with my previous display (HT3550).


Envoyé de mon AC2003 en utilisant Tapatalk


----------



## oneil50

Still no Firmware update, and any news from optoma dude.....
I read P2 thread and I found this.
Actually the last update for P2 fix tone mapping with shield TV.
Seriously CAN YOU UPDATE P1 TOO ?


----------



## zekonavsforum

oneil50 said:


> Still no Firmware update, and any news from optoma dude.....
> I read P2 thread and I found this.
> Actually the last update for P2 fix tone mapping with shield TV.
> Seriously CAN YOU UPDATE P1 TOO ?


I agree : i tried reddit, private messages and other to join Optoma PM DUDE, but nothing : maybe a petition sent to Optoma ?


----------



## Christian Spiga

The only think that we can do is to send to service all together our P1 /UHZ, could be that if they receive thousand of request, they move the ass with a new firmware.
Game mode is really a joke, since the beginning they send a projector with a fake value of input lag of 70ms on the official broschure, i think this is enough to give back.


----------



## USTGuy

Only thing I miss about P1 is the 3D quality 

Sent from my SM-J337A using Tapatalk


----------



## NymnNymn

Hello,
Just got my P1 and was hoping for a little advice on how to use the optical line with my receiver. At least, I thought we could use that with a typical 5.1 receiver. Is there something in the menus? Or am I mistaken?
Thanks!


----------



## Mick Seymour

@NymnNymn You can take the optical out on the PJ to an optical in on your receiver to listen to audio via the receiver. You should to mute the PJ internal audio or turn it off in the PJ menus otherwise both the receiver and the PJ will be outputing sound.


----------



## NymnNymn

Aha! Thanks, will give that a go.


----------



## jhbball2002

Any news on an update? Shield Pro user here.


----------



## Mick Seymour

It looks like we P1/UHZ65UST owners are being left behind. Optoma UK has the P2 as well as the UHZ65UST on their web site, with the P2 £300 cheaper! I think this is a disgraceful way to treat early adopters.


----------



## dinesh26uk

P2 specs not as good as P1. 3500 lumens only on p1


----------



## namtech

dinesh26uk said:


> P2 specs not as good as P1. 3500 lumens only on p1


Consider that after calibration these values go usually way down. Futher more that difference is indistinguishable for most people... side by side...maybe, however side by side the P2 has the edge in color reproduction.

My UHZ65UST is going for RMA now because of heavy color banding. It is getting picked up on Monday. If they can't fix it i am done with Laser/UST for this generation (after going through 4 different units) and going back to OLED. Optoma as a company must really step up their game if they want to stay relevant now with also Samsung pushing into this sector.


----------



## Mick Seymour

@dinesh26uk UHZ65UST is 3500 lumens as well.


----------



## kalle4242

Just to clarify this: 
My understanding is, that the EU version of the P1(UHZ65UST) is the P1 Pro version in the US and the P2 is the replacement for the US version of the P1 while the P1 Pro remains unchanged. There was never a P1 version in EU with the specs of the P1 in the US - right?

Or to put it that way: The specs of the P2 don´t impress me compared to the specs of my EU P1


----------



## 3sprit

P2 has a different (better?) color wheel.


----------



## dinesh26uk

kalle4242 said:


> Just to clarify this:
> My understanding is, that the EU version of the P1(UHZ65UST) is the P1 Pro version in the US and the P2 is the replacement for the US version of the P1 while the P1 Pro remains unchanged. There was never a P1 version in EU with the specs of the P1 in the US - right?
> 
> Or to put it that way: The specs of the P2 don´t impress me compared to the specs of my EU P1


This is what I meant.. Agree that EU didn't have a lower lumen spec P1


----------



## dinesh26uk

Anyone linked the EU P1 with Alexa or Google assistant. I'm not having great success with Alexa. The first time I linked it switched on and off fine but now when I ask for it to the turned on the red light just blinks and I have to manually turn it on. Set up as 'cinema' room so Xbox turns on with projector but only the Xbox responds properly atm. Wonder if Google would be better. Projector is on smart home mode


----------



## Ricoflashback

namtech said:


> Consider that after calibration these values go usually way down. Futher more that difference is indistinguishable for most people... side by side...maybe, however side by side the P2 has the edge in color reproduction.
> 
> My UHZ65UST is going for RMA now because of heavy color banding. It is getting picked up on Monday. If they can't fix it i am done with Laser/UST for this generation (after going through 4 different units) and going back to OLED. Optoma as a company must really step up their game if they want to stay relevant now with also Samsung pushing into this sector.


***Every technology has its issues. What is color banding? I’m well aware of vertical banding as my earlier edge lit, LCD had horrific bands on golf shots (panning the sky) and ice hockey. OLED’s are notorious for banding and tinting. I’ve only had one PJ (BenQ W1080ST) and zero issues with any sort of banding. Sorry you’re going through all this hassle. Out of curiosity, what four UST projectors did you try? Different ones? And color banding - please enlighten me as this is the first I’ve heard of this on any of the laser UST threads. I’ve heard of rainbows but not much else. Luckily, I didn’t see rainbows with my cheapo BenQ projector.


----------



## DubsGuy

So we're going on almost 5 months now without

1) any news about firmware updates from Optoma or any representatives about the P1
2) no contact from @OPTOMA PM DUDE on this thread or Reddit in the past 4 months (you can look for yourself here OPTOMA_PM_DUDE (u/OPTOMA_PM_DUDE) - Reddit)
3) and their latest device, the P2, is receiving updates for issues that I'm still experiencing with my P1 since that last update in JULY that was to supposedly fix them but ended up adding MORE problems

If @OPTOMA PM DUDE was a community rep for us to get assistance and news from, I can only assume he is no longer employed with Optoma as nearly 5 months of inactivity would be unthinkable in any industry if that was his role. In which case, since that time, there is no other method of getting news from Optoma other than checking their website regularly for any firmware updates as well as no contact point to voice our concerns.

I think the most alarming thing I've discovered is that if you go to the Optoma homepage, look up products and click on the Cinemax P1, it takes you straight to the Cinemax P2 product and details page. Feel free to check it out yourself here: Home Entertainment | Optoma USA. The Cinemax P1 product page simply doesn't even exist and has been replaced with their newest product. You can't even search for the July Firmware download on the Optoma homepage, you have to find it through a search engine. So if there is no longer a product page to find the updates, and there is no longer an Optoma liason to keep us up to date with the status of firmware updates...where are we to go? Sending emails/messages to Optoma Customer support on their webpage has been a waste of time as I've yet to receive anything other than automated responses from them. If this isn't proof that Optoma has essentially discontinued the P1 and support for it, I don't know what is.

I sincerely hope that we get some sort of update or news by the end of THIS YEAR at least because I still want to hold on to some hope for this company. But at this point, I would not in good conscience recommend any Optoma products to anyone else going forward. It's disappointing that early adopters that essentially supported Optoma get to where they are now are not only forgotten but essentially punished with a device that is still riddled with bugs and issues.


----------



## tambur123

Well, after a year waiting for a firmware fix, I just bought an 77 oled for gaming and hdr. Life’s too short and lessons learned, never buy products that don’t deliver on day one. 
Btw, the tv was much cheaper than the 5k euros I dropped on the projector and screen. I still think this is an excellent projector for hd/4k sdr movies, but optoma support has been abysmal, pandemic or not.


----------



## namtech

Ricoflashback said:


> ***Every technology has its issues. What is color banding? I’m well aware of vertical banding as my earlier edge lit, LCD had horrific bands on golf shots (panning the sky) and ice hockey. OLED’s are notorious for banding and tinting. I’ve only had one PJ (BenQ W1080ST) and zero issues with any sort of banding. Sorry you’re going through all this hassle. Out of curiosity, what four UST projectors did you try? Different ones? And color banding - please enlighten me as this is the first I’ve heard of this on any of the laser UST threads. I’ve heard of rainbows but not much else. Luckily, I didn’t see rainbows with my cheapo BenQ projector.


Color Banding in bright gradients (light blue/orange/white), moving circles on skin tones. Optoma Support sent me a grey/white gradient picture to demonstrate it to them, it was there cleary visible on the border brighter grey tones that something is wrong. The issue was basically that i had to lower contrast to extrem negative values to remove it, even with Brilliant Color set to 1 it did not allow me to increase contrast to anything greater than 0. Didnt matter if SDR or HDR, independend of source even with UHD disc on Panasonic UB824, with or without AVR and independent of used cable

The other Units i had were all UHZ65UST. The first one was silent but developed coil whine after a few days, they next units all had a horrible electrical buzz that was audible from 2-3m sitting distance. Optoma commented on this topic of elecrtical buzzing "its inside the tolerance", thanksfully my reseller took the units back anyway and offered me a refurbished unit from a older batch. That one was silent however it had this horrible gradient/color (i think its banding) issue.

This is the test with Gradient file provided by Optoma Support: IMG_1532.MOV


----------



## Ricoflashback

namtech said:


> Color Banding in bright gradients (light blue/orange/white), moving circles on skin tones. Optoma Support sent me a grey/white gradient picture to demonstrate it to them, it was there cleary visible on the border brighter grey tones that something is wrong. The issue was basically that i had to lower contrast to extrem negative values to remove it, even with Brilliant Color set to 1 it did not allow me to increase contrast to anything greater than 0. Didnt matter if SDR or HDR, independend of source even with UHD disc on Panasonic UB824, with or without AVR and independent of used cable
> 
> The other Units i had were all UHZ65UST. The first one was silent but developed coil whine after a few days, they next units all had a horrible electrical buzz that was audible from 2-3m sitting distance. Optoma commented on this topic of elecrtical buzzing "its inside the tolerance", thanksfully my reseller took the units back anyway and offered me a refurbished unit from a older batch. That one was silent however it had this horrible gradient/color (i think its banding) issue.
> 
> This is the test with Gradient file provided by Optoma Support: IMG_1532.MOV


***Much thanks. Maybe I missed it but I didn't see these types of comments on the other UST threads for VAVA, Samsung, etc. I do not have to make a UST decision for a while and hopefully, more advanced models will be available on the market that addresses most of the concerns of buyers.


----------



## Kev1000000

namtech said:


> Color Banding in bright gradients (light blue/orange/white), moving circles on skin tones. Optoma Support sent me a grey/white gradient picture to demonstrate it to them, it was there cleary visible on the border brighter grey tones that something is wrong. The issue was basically that i had to lower contrast to extrem negative values to remove it, even with Brilliant Color set to 1 it did not allow me to increase contrast to anything greater than 0. Didnt matter if SDR or HDR, independend of source even with UHD disc on Panasonic UB824, with or without AVR and independent of used cable
> 
> The other Units i had were all UHZ65UST. The first one was silent but developed coil whine after a few days, they next units all had a horrible electrical buzz that was audible from 2-3m sitting distance. Optoma commented on this topic of elecrtical buzzing "its inside the tolerance", thanksfully my reseller took the units back anyway and offered me a refurbished unit from a older batch. That one was silent however it had this horrible gradient/color (i think its banding) issue.
> 
> This is the test with Gradient file provided by Optoma Support: IMG_1532.MOV



I have this exact same issue, btw.


----------



## namtech

Kev1000000 said:


> I have this exact same issue, btw.


I will update here if they found a reason for it. Shipping arrived yesterday at the service partner so I would expect to have an answer somewhen by end of next week


----------



## Jan L

Same issue here as already mentioned a couple of times. Actually already with my second unit....First got replaced. So disappointing...... Lets send it in until they Update us to p2 for free.


----------



## jhbball2002

Same issue as described above. Also, game mode is completely unusable with (green tint). Essentially, this is false advertising btw. I was told 50ms, but am forced to play at 120+. What are our options here?


----------



## namtech

jhbball2002 said:


> Same issue as described above. Also, game mode is completely unusable with (green tint). Essentially, this is false advertising btw. I was told 50ms, but am forced to play at 120+. What are our options here?


you can get rid of green tint if you switch picture mode back and forth (i.e from game to cinema and back). Worked for me like 80% of the time.
more annoying was that after disabling game mode, I often had to restart the unit because it truncated a few inches at the bottom of the image.


----------



## Fedder

namtech said:


> you can get rid of green tint if you switch picture mode back and forth (i.e from game to cinema and back). Worked for me like 80% of the time.
> more annoying was that after disabling game mode, I often had to restart the unit because it truncated a few inches at the bottom of the image.


Thats only a temp fix though after a while the screen blacks out and goes back to green again for me.


----------



## jhbball2002

namtech said:


> you can get rid of green tint if you switch picture mode back and forth (i.e from game to cinema and back). Worked for me like 80% of the time.
> more annoying was that after disabling game mode, I often had to restart the unit because it truncated a few inches at the bottom of the image.


I actually tried this, but couldn't get it working. If you're referring to turning game mode on and off. I have the same issue with the bottom of the image being clipped.


----------



## jhbball2002

Side note, for those with an Nvidia shield 2019, could you re-summarize the issues you're having? Or could someone point me to the proper post?


----------



## Mick Seymour

Has a support ticket been raised for these issues? With no Optoma contact here anymore, that's probably the only way of letting them know.


----------



## Fedder

jhbball2002 said:


> I actually tried this, but couldn't get it working. If you're referring to turning game mode on and off. I have the same issue with the bottom of the image being clipped.


They ment leaving game mode itself on but changing the colour settings itself like cinema, user, game etc to something else and then back to what it was while still in game mode. It fixes the green tint and it still has the reduced input lag but itll come back after a while for some reason.


----------



## Vortex81

ArcVault said:


> Thank you, seriously thank you for your kind assistance! - I will try and wrestle the setup in the next few days when i get time to see if this pans out _crosses fingers_


Hi,

I have the same problem...

Have you resolved your problem and how... ?

Thanks 

Olivier


----------



## legnaz

I'm waiting a few more months then sending my p1 for warranty repair (focus is bad on 1 corner) then hopefully they will just start sending p2. We have a 2yr warranty correct?


----------



## namtech

namtech said:


> I will update here if they found a reason for it. Shipping arrived yesterday at the service partner so I would expect to have an answer somewhen by end of next week


soo. Very funny. Support replied now.
I reported the following issues: 

1) Heavy Color Banding 
2) picture has horizontal offset of like a few centimetres 
3) sharpness issue in 1 corner (i.e you can get upper left corner sharp OR upper right corner but not both)

Reply from support:

1) Banding: Fixed / Adjusted Colorwheel
2) Horizontal Offset: confirmed, replacement of engine necessary
3) sharpness: confirmed replacement of engine necessary
4) Rattling Fan: replacement of Fan

So they ordered spare parts which they say take 2 to 3 Weeks shipping due to Covid-19.

I am almost happy now, because this means all the sellers were **** talking about the banding being normal and not a known issue and now I can show them the support reply.
Not so happy because this was already a refurbished unit (where apparently lots of issues were missed) and it seems Optoma has MAJOR quality control issues. Doubting my invest in the P1/UHZ65UST...and lets not talk about the ongoing silence about the promised firmware update.

Still thinking about returning or selling (if they don't take it back )it, after its returned from RMA.


----------



## oneil50

I'm just waiting the new firmware for Shield TV automapping. So long and already fixed on the P2.... This is really annoying 

Envoyé de mon AC2003 en utilisant Tapatalk


----------



## Mick Seymour

I've been told by support today that they are expecting a new firmware update for the UHZ65UST in December. I'm assuming that includes the P1. No other details yet.


----------



## oneil50

Mick Seymour said:


> I've been told by support today that they are expecting a new firmware update for the UHZ65UST in December. I'm assuming that includes the P1. No other details yet.


I Hope it's a true news and waiting the changelog


----------



## Fedder

oneil50 said:


> I Hope it's a true news and waiting the changelog


pls pls pls pls pls


----------



## zekonavsforum

Hello everyone, I think too much time has passed, we need a *PETITION *to make pressure on Optoma and have a decent support and firmware updates for this kind of expensive videoprojectors. I am owner, and these bugs are annoying me each day.

So I've just created this petition on change.org here => *http://chng.it/vz9cVn54QY*

I copy this message in the others main sites of owners that I know ( reddit, and passionhomecinema uhz65ust topic comments )

We need 5 signatures for this petition to be public : please join if your are interested, and share the petition link.

If >20 signatures, I will send it to Optoma for action.


----------



## joker2005

[QUOTE = "Mick Seymour, Post: 60283029, Mitglied: 61061"]
Der Support hat mir heute mitgeteilt, dass im Dezember ein neues Firmware-Update für das UHZ65UST erwartet wird. Ich gehe davon aus, dass das den P1 beinhaltet. Noch keine weiteren Details.
[/ZITAT]
Bitte sende das Schreiben vom Support,das es für alle zugänglich ist.Vielen Dank


----------



## Mick Seymour

joker2005 said:


> Bitte sende das Schreiben vom Support,das es für alle zugänglich ist.Vielen Dank
> Please send the letter from support, it is accessible to everyone. Thank you


It was an email regarding a support ticket I have logged. I posted everything it said.


----------



## Frank714

joker2005 said:


> Bitte sende das Schreiben vom Support,das es für alle zugänglich ist.Vielen Dank


_Please send the mail from support, to be available for all, many thanks_

Offensichtlich wartet Mick auf Antwort, dass er schon Antwort erhalten hat, hat er nicht geschrieben (und schreib hier bitte in englisch)

_Obviously Mick is waiting for a reply, he hasn't written that he already received one (and please write in English here) _


----------



## zekonavsforum

zekonavsforum said:


> Hello everyone, I think too much time has passed, we need a *PETITION *to make pressure on Optoma and have a decent support and firmware updates for this kind of expensive videoprojectors. I am owner, and these bugs are annoying me each day.
> 
> So I've just created this petition on change.org here => *http://chng.it/vz9cVn54QY*
> 
> I copy this message in the others main sites of owners that I know ( reddit, and passionhomecinema uhz65ust topic comments )
> 
> We need 5 signatures for this petition to be public : please join if your are interested, and share the petition link.
> 
> If >20 signatures, I will send it to Optoma for action.


Woah.. already 16 signatures in 4 days  Let's continue : More signatures means more chance to have a new firmware soon


----------



## zekonavsforum

Hello, another subject for compatible HDMI receiver : who have a HDMI receiver that works well with his Optoma P1/UHZ65UST ? I would like to change my old Yamaha RX-V640 (no hdmi) to a new one.

Question 1 : What receiver that works well / do not works with this projector ? 
Question 2 : Does HDMI Auto LIP Sync works ? ( I'm currently adding audio delay with Kodi on my HTPC )

My main usage : 

in [email protected] HDR without gaming mode enabled, for 4K movies
in [email protected] and [email protected] with gaming mode enabled, for gaming

Thanks


----------



## namtech

zekonavsforum said:


> Question 1 : What receiver that works well / do not works with this projector ?
> Question 2 : Does HDMI Auto LIP Sync works ? ( I'm currently adding audio delay with Kodi on my HTPC )


1: Honestly, i think as long as your receiver supports HDR / HDR Passthrough and is 4k (or higher) capable you cant really go (very) wrong. Chose a receiver that fits your requirements in terms of how many Inputs and what kind of speaker setup you have and what 3D Audio Format you want to use (if at all). I am using a Denon x4400h and there is not much negative to report for my use case. Go with your own requirements and your budget. Also some AVR's are a bit better suited if you also listen to a lot of music, again a question of your needs. If you never plan to drive very large or a lot of speakers, there is usually not that much of a difference between models (i.e Denon 1200 vs. 4200)

2: Mixed bag for me, i noticed lip desync mostly if pure motion is enabled, it was very annoying and most attempts to fix it were only partially successful. I admit i did not spent much time investigating further, i went with disabling pure motion and force source to correct output format - i.e switch so 24h output instead of scaling to 60fps.


----------



## Mick Seymour

Frank714 said:


> _Please send the mail from support, to be available for all, many thanks_
> ...
> _Obviously Mick is waiting for a reply, he hasn't written that he already received one (and please write in English here) _


I was just giving people a heads up on what I'd been told. An email or verbal statement from first line support means nothing until the firmware arrives.


----------



## zekonavsforum

zekonavsforum said:


> Hello everyone, I think too much time has passed, we need a *PETITION *to make pressure on Optoma and have a decent support and firmware updates for this kind of expensive videoprojectors. I am owner, and these bugs are annoying me each day.
> 
> So I've just created this petition on change.org here => *http://chng.it/vz9cVn54QY*
> 
> I copy this message in the others main sites of owners that I know ( reddit, and passionhomecinema uhz65ust topic comments )
> 
> We need 5 signatures for this petition to be public : please join if your are interested, and share the petition link.
> 
> If >20 signatures, I will send it to Optoma for action.


Ok, got 20 signatures of owners, in 6 days ! Thanks all !

I'm now searching the best official ways to send this to Optoma.


----------



## joker2005

👍👏


----------



## zekonavsforum

zekonavsforum said:


> Ok, got 20 signatures of owners, in 6 days ! Thanks all !
> 
> I'm now searching the best official ways to send this to Optoma.


Hello everyone, after 28 signatures in the petition, here is the mail i've just sent to OPTOMA :

*****

Title : Obtain firmware updates for OPTOMA P1 / UHZ65UST

Hello,

This request is about the projector CINEMAX P1 / UHZ65UST.

We are 28 worldwide owners of this projector who have signed a petition on change.org, to ask for a new firmware to correct remaining bugs. You can consult the petition here : Sign the Petition (28 owners signatures in one week, and the number is growing..)

About the last known delivered firmware :

It was delivered in august 2020 on two web sites : avsforum.com : /threads/optoma-p1-4k-laser-ust-ces.3041368 ; reddit.com : /r/projectors/comments/hxhacm/cinemax_p1_c143_usb_fw_upgrade/
It was delivered by "OPTOMA PM DUDE", an US registered account, who talked regularly with members before september.
The firmware was referenced by firmware C14.3, MCU = C11 and DDP = C17
Known issues were written, and marked "to be resolved in next firwmare release" by "OPTOMA PM DUDE"

Official known issues are :

Green tint (on some black tones) with Gaming Mode enabled.
Gaming Mode image cropping (very bottom of image -- minor).
Flicker with 1080p120Hz signal
100% Power -- (100% power may appear darker than Dynamic Black 1, 2 and 3).
Black image when switching source from HDMI 1, 2 or 3 to Home (Launcher) with Gaming Mode enabled.

But no communication since august, no next firmware delivered, and no more anwers from Optoma.

These further remaining bugs have been confirmed by worldwide owners, who have signed this petition ( for example, some details of the bugs are available on avsforum : avsforum.com : /threads/optoma-p1-4k-laser-ust-ces.3041368/page-157#post-60095270 )

We are asking support for a firmware update of this product, and start again the communication with owners, like the "OPTOMA PM DUDE" account in august 2020. 

Thank you,

Emmanuel Fauré
UHZ65UST Owner
Petition author
France
[email protected]
zekonavsforum (on avsforum.com)

A copy of this message is sent on :

at [email protected]
at online US support page : Support | Optoma USA
at online FR support page : Besoin d’un support technique ou une demande d’informations - Optoma France
at avsforum : avsforum.com : /threads/optoma-p1-4k-laser-ust-ces.3041368/
at reddit : reddit.com : /r/projectors/comments/hxhacm/cinemax_p1_c143_usb_fw_upgrade/

****


----------



## diggumsmax

zekonavsforum said:


> Hello everyone, I think too much time has passed, we need a *PETITION *to make pressure on Optoma and have a decent support and firmware updates for this kind of expensive videoprojectors. I am owner, and these bugs are annoying me each day.
> 
> So I've just created this petition on change.org here => *http://chng.it/vz9cVn54QY*
> 
> I copy this message in the others main sites of owners that I know ( reddit, and passionhomecinema uhz65ust topic comments )
> 
> We need 5 signatures for this petition to be public : please join if your are interested, and share the petition link.
> 
> If >20 signatures, I will send it to Optoma for action.


I have cut Optoma a little slack. Tariff's right before release and Optoma didn't even raise the price to match the tariff's so auto loss out of the gate. Then covid. Optoma makes projectors and some screens. To my knowledge they do not have the resources like LG, Samsung, Sony, ect.. like appliances and all other electronics so I get it. With that said the P2 getting firmware software BEFORE the P1. If they stop putting out updates while continuing to release for the P2 I'll sign. 

Optoma was obviously losing money on the P1. It's really the only explanation from announcing the P2 and cancelling the P1 without even notifying authorized retailers who still had orders to fulfill. I could be wrong but I think the smaller six segment color will is cheaper even though it produces better colors. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

zekonavsforum said:


> Hello, another subject for compatible HDMI receiver : who have a HDMI receiver that works well with his Optoma P1/UHZ65UST ? I would like to change my old Yamaha RX-V640 (no hdmi) to a new one.
> 
> Question 1 : What receiver that works well / do not works with this projector ?
> Question 2 : Does HDMI Auto LIP Sync works ? ( I'm currently adding audio delay with Kodi on my HTPC )
> 
> My main usage :
> 
> in [email protected] HDR without gaming mode enabled, for 4K movies
> in [email protected] and [email protected] with gaming mode enabled, for gaming
> 
> Thanks


 The HDFury Key fixed ALL dropouts. there's something up with the EDID on this projector. Even with the minimal EDID correction on the key model I never had any snow or dropouts again ever and I still haven't till this day. I would look at the arcana as it does LLDV. I actually upgraded to the diva so I have an AVR key that was used for 2 weeks to sell if you're interested









4K Arcana 18Gbps | HDFury.com | Connect and Fix everything in HDMI


No eARC TV ? No problem! And no more lip sync issues for eARC TV owners! WORLD’S FIRST eARC adapter that allows FULL AUDIO up to Dolby Atmos over TrueHD from ANY external HDMI source to ANY eARC sound system. Perfect solution for SONOS Arc and ANY eARC AVR, soundbar or headphones. The Arcana...




www.hdfury.com







Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

diggumsmax said:


> Does your receiver have ARC, or better off eARC. The HDFury Key fixed ALL dropouts. there's something up with the EDID on this projector. Even with the minimal EDID correction on the key model I never had any snow or dropouts again ever and I still haven't till this day. I would look at the arcana as it does LLDV. I actually upgraded to the diva so I have an AVR key that was used for 2 weeks to sell if you're interested
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4K Arcana 18Gbps | HDFury.com | Connect and Fix everything in HDMI
> 
> 
> No eARC TV ? No problem! And no more lip sync issues for eARC TV owners! WORLD’S FIRST eARC adapter that allows FULL AUDIO up to Dolby Atmos over TrueHD from ANY external HDMI source to ANY eARC sound system. Perfect solution for SONOS Arc and ANY eARC AVR, soundbar or headphones. The Arcana...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.hdfury.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Additionally almost all HDMI 2.1 receivers on the market today have issues with either HDR or VRR due to the HDMI chipset. there are only like one or two models that do it right that don't cost 10k. Save some money and buy an HDMI 2.0 b receiver, preferably with eARC. You'll save yourself a lot of headaches and money. If you need Atmos you really do need the right speakers to get the full effect. Most audiophiles recommend a 10.2 setup and while I think that's way over a kill I do believe some ceiling speakers would be best for the object oriented sound

HomeTheaterReview's AV Receiver Buyer's Guide (November 2020 Update)

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

namtech said:


> 1: Honestly, i think as long as your receiver supports HDR / HDR Passthrough and is 4k (or higher) capable you cant really go (very) wrong. Chose a receiver that fits your requirements in terms of how many Inputs and what kind of speaker setup you have and what 3D Audio Format you want to use (if at all). I am using a Denon x4400h and there is not much negative to report for my use case. Go with your own requirements and your budget. Also some AVR's are a bit better suited if you also listen to a lot of music, again a question of your needs. If you never plan to drive very large or a lot of speakers, there is usually not that much of a difference between models (i.e Denon 1200 vs. 4200)
> 
> 2: Mixed bag for me, i noticed lip desync mostly if pure motion is enabled, it was very annoying and most attempts to fix it were only partially successful. I admit i did not spent much time investigating further, i went with disabling pure motion and force source to correct output format - i.e switch so 24h output instead of scaling to 60fps.


Are you sure. Any receiver usi g the Panasonic hdmi 2.1 chipset is fubar'd for gamers, period. There are a few models but they use a different chipset than the Panasonic









Bug in HDMI 2.1 chips Affect AV Receivers, XBOX Series X & NVIDIA Graphic Cards


Certain HDMI 2.1 AV receivers from Denon, Marantz and Yamaha have a bug in their HDMI 2.1 chipsets that causes blank screen for 4k/120Hz & 8k/60Hz resolutions. Sound United gives work around and promises future fix.




www.audioholics.com





If you don't game then it's not an issue if you have a display with EARC or there's other solutions but if you're a gamer it's too much of a compromise to spend that much money on something that simply doesn't work as advertised

After a bit more research it appears the way the PS5 implemented VRR then it still works but the Xbox Series X will not work with pass through you have to use eARC from your TV.

I'm waiting until 2023 when the refresher consoles are out but actually do the HDMI 2.1 spec and all this mess is behind us because we're at a point where displays can't handle the gaming features on these new consoles. Mini LED and another new tech by samsung sound promising but Samsung will probably be coming out with a display in 2023 (QNED) that can do extreme brightness while getting OLED blacks with zero risk of burn in. Now the price could be ridiculous so I'm just going to wait as mini led is seeming like 82 to 3-year solution. Even then it's extremely expensive, go look at the ASUS 32-in monitor. The specs are ridiculous but it's still ridiculously expensive and it's not a gaming monitor. It's geared towards video editing






Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## namtech

diggumsmax said:


> Are you sure. Any receiver usi g the Panasonic hdmi 2.1 chipset is fubar'd for gamers, period. There are a few models but they use a different chipset than the Panasonic


No, hence i wrote and recommended to go with the requirements. IIRC the chipset issue you point out is specifically only affecting 4K120, so not all gaming scenarios apply here, talking about future proof or being ready for the newer consoles, there you are right. However this chipset issue affects a lot of AVRs currently so technically the only reasonable recommendation would be "wait for next revisions". However if only light gaming or full-hd is the target for the OP and if he cant or does not want to wait, it really doesn't matter as much.


----------



## diggumsmax

namtech said:


> No, hence i wrote and recommended to go with the requirements. IIRC the chipset issue you point out is specifically only affecting 4K120, so not all gaming scenarios apply here, talking about future proof or being ready for the newer consoles, there you are right. However this chipset issue affects a lot of AVRs currently so technically the only reasonable recommendation would be "wait for next revisions". However if only light gaming or full-hd is the target for the OP and if he cant or does not want to wait, it really doesn't matter as much.


HDMI 2.1 is just a huge mess. Both consoles can't do the full bandwidth. When the first HDMI video cards came out in September that did full bandwidth cost quite a bit more than the series X. I knew there were going to be compromises but that one was big to me. I wish display makers used display port. HDCP is useless and can be ignores various ways. It's waisted money. 

I see lawsuits if there aren't already. I saw people complaining that there games didn't look any better on 1080p displays and I get not everyone It is tech savvy but come on. Then complaining that you needed expensive displays. Honestly, Right now a gaming monitor would be the best those are obviously smaller. They figured all this out years ago with PC gaming. AMD and Nvidia worked with game monitor companies to make it work. There is currently one commercial display that can do all the new features (lG CX), obviously not cheap but not crazy expensive. I would really like to see this monitor in person even though it's not a gaming monitor. QNED sounds amazing but I have doubts samsung can pull it off due to them being software control freaks which It's why none of their displays do Dolby Vision. It has to have a dedicated ship in the display to do it and Samsung won't allow it.

Even at this price no HDMI 2.1
ProArt PA32UCX | Monitors | ASUS USA


EDIT: I totally went way off base on this thread so I'm done with my rant. Back to P1
Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## zekonavsforum

diggumsmax said:


> The HDFury Key fixed ALL dropouts. there's something up with the EDID on this projector. Even with the minimal EDID correction on the key model I never had any snow or dropouts again ever and I still haven't till this day. I would look at the arcana as it does LLDV. I actually upgraded to the diva so I have an AVR key that was used for 2 weeks to sell if you're interested
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4K Arcana 18Gbps | HDFury.com | Connect and Fix everything in HDMI
> 
> 
> No eARC TV ? No problem! And no more lip sync issues for eARC TV owners! WORLD’S FIRST eARC adapter that allows FULL AUDIO up to Dolby Atmos over TrueHD from ANY external HDMI source to ANY eARC sound system. Perfect solution for SONOS Arc and ANY eARC AVR, soundbar or headphones. The Arcana...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.hdfury.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Thanks, I didn't knew about these HDFury products. The "dr-hdmi-4k" key seems to be a possible correction if any dropouts bugs are remaining .. after the next firmware that Optoma will send to us, because of the petition


----------



## eurovtec

zekonavsforum said:


> Hello everyone, I think too much time has passed, we need a *PETITION *to make pressure on Optoma and have a decent support and firmware updates for this kind of expensive videoprojectors. I am owner, and these bugs are annoying me each day.
> 
> So I've just created this petition on change.org here => *http://chng.it/vz9cVn54QY*
> 
> I copy this message in the others main sites of owners that I know ( reddit, and passionhomecinema uhz65ust topic comments )
> 
> We need 5 signatures for this petition to be public : please join if your are interested, and share the petition link.
> 
> If >20 signatures, I will send it to Optoma for action.


Hi, I've signed the petition. 
I just discovered that Optoma removed the P1 projector from their website.
What kind of after sales support this is? 
After releasing a buggy product with promised of firmware upgrades to resolve it and .....boom!!! Bye bye everyone!


----------



## oneil50

Optoma are really boring. P2 is regular updating but not the P1....


----------



## zekonavsforum

oneil50 said:


> Optoma are really boring. P2 is regular updating but not the P1....


Hi everyone, 65 signatures in the petition, it's not a little anymore. 

Still waiting for Optoma answers, the support's case numbers are : #00381130 (optoma us/uk) and #00381131 (optoma fr)


----------



## zekonavsforum

zekonavsforum said:


> Hi everyone, 65 signatures in the petition, it's not a little anymore.
> 
> Still waiting for Optoma answers, the support's case numbers are : #00381130 (optoma us/uk) and #00381131 (optoma fr)


Maybe a good news : a new user "Optoma Official" has joined this forum 5 days ago, and wants to get in contact to discuss the issues. I've just answer this account with my contact, to start exchanges. To be continued. 🤞🤞🤞


----------



## eedwards86

zekonavsforum said:


> Hi everyone, 65 signatures in the petition, it's not a little anymore.
> 
> Still waiting for Optoma answers, the support's case numbers are : #00381130 (optoma us/uk) and #00381131 (optoma fr)


Do you know if the following issues are addressed in the support case and petition:

1. EDID issues: constant connection issues. Some people have to use HD Fury to correct EDID connection problems. I have this issue all the time.
2. HDR issues associated with Dynamic Black. Image brightness looks great for 30 seconds to a minute and then becomes dull. I've noticed that regular HD content looks brighter and sometimes better than UHD HDR content.


----------



## Bill97Z

I feel like optoma is big enough and has a reputation in the industry that there is an expectation for them to support their products which is one reason why people paid a premium. I have a VAVA and even with them being a small newcomer to UST projectors have gotten several firmware updates in the last 2 months to improve user experience. It's kind of disappointing IMO if Optoma is prioritizing support for the P2



diggumsmax said:


> I have cut Optoma a little slack. Tariff's right before release and Optoma didn't even raise the price to match the tariff's so auto loss out of the gate. Then covid. Optoma makes projectors and some screens. To my knowledge they do not have the resources like LG, Samsung, Sony, ect.. like appliances and all other electronics so I get it. With that said the P2 getting firmware software BEFORE the P1. If they stop putting out updates while continuing to release for the P2 I'll sign.
> 
> Optoma was obviously losing money on the P1. It's really the only explanation from announcing the P2 and cancelling the P1 without even notifying authorized retailers who still had orders to fulfill. I could be wrong but I think the smaller six segment color will is cheaper even though it produces better colors.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## jhbball2002

eedwards86 said:


> Do you know if the following issues are addressed in the support case and petition:
> 
> 1. EDID issues: constant connection issues. Some people have to use HD Fury to correct EDID connection problems. I have this issue all the time.
> 2. HDR issues associated with Dynamic Black. Image brightness looks great for 30 seconds to a minute and then becomes dull. I've noticed that regular HD content looks brighter and sometimes better than UHD HDR content.


FYI, they consider #2 expected behavior/working as intended. I requested a 'static black' option - because whatever the setting is the first 30 seconds, always looks better than anything else.


----------



## zekonavsforum

eedwards86 said:


> Do you know if the following issues are addressed in the support case and petition:
> 
> 1. EDID issues: constant connection issues. Some people have to use HD Fury to correct EDID connection problems. I have this issue all the time.
> 2. HDR issues associated with Dynamic Black. Image brightness looks great for 30 seconds to a minute and then becomes dull. I've noticed that regular HD content looks brighter and sometimes better than UHD HDR content.


Hi,

1. Yes, the HDMI unstability issue is an issue I will talk about. But I don't know how to prove a EDID problem ? Does someone know how to prove that ? For example with a PC or a shield ?
2. Not yet adressed : I know that some reviews of dynamic black show these color problems, and I've noticed that too ( but i don't use dynamic black any more ). I note that issue too.

i've noticed in your signature that you have a Pioneer VSX-LX303 : does it handle automatically the audio delay ( aka "hdmi lip sync" ) ?


----------



## eedwards86

zekonavsforum said:


> Hi,
> 
> 1. Yes, the HDMI unstability issue is an issue I will talk about. But I don't know how to prove a EDID problem ? Does someone know how to prove that ? For example with a PC or a shield ?
> 2. Not yet adressed : I know that some reviews of dynamic black show these color problems, and I've noticed that too ( but i don't use dynamic black any more ). I note that issue too.
> 
> i've noticed in your signature that you have a Pioneer VSX-LX303 : does it handle automatically the audio delay ( aka "hdmi lip sync" ) ?


I've had some lip sync issues depending on the content and in the beginning it was a problem. This applied to my Nvidia Shield and Blu-Ray Player; now it's pretty good. This has seemed to work for me:


Plex content: 23.98Hz
Hulu content: 23.98Hz
Amazon Prime: 59.94Hz
Netflix: 23.98Hz
YouTube: 59.94Hz

If I try Amazon or YouTube at 23.98Hz then I have sync issues. But once I start messing with refresh rates is when I start get to HDMI connection issues. I've learned I have to turn on systems in a specific order for it to function correctly. But to fully answer your question, there was sync issues, but they've since been resolved and I didn't have to offset anything on my Pioneer or any other device.


----------



## diggumsmax

eedwards86 said:


> I've had some lip sync issues depending on the content and in the beginning it was a problem. This applied to my Nvidia Shield and Blu-Ray Player; now it's pretty good. This has seemed to work for me:
> 
> 
> Plex content: 23.98Hz
> Hulu content: 23.98Hz
> Amazon Prime: 59.94Hz
> Netflix: 23.98Hz
> YouTube: 59.94Hz
> 
> If I try Amazon or YouTube at 23.98Hz then I have sync issues. But once I start messing with refresh rates is when I start get to HDMI connection issues. I've learned I have to turn on systems in a specific order for it to function correctly. But to fully answer your question, there was sync issues, but they've since been resolved and I didn't have to offset anything on my Pioneer or any other device.


Have you tried used the shields audio delay? That's what I did, under sound, advanced. Has a bouncing ball so you can adjust. I think I got mine on 8 or 9ms. 

As for EDID issues. Yes I had huge issues. I bought a switch with an HDMI audio output for my non arc receiver. Ended up finally buying the HDFury Key as that switch caused more dropouts and snow. Even with their minimal EDID software, not one dropout or issue since then. If you just want to fix EDID, this will do it Dr HDMI 4K | HDFury.com | Connect and Fix everything in HDMI

If you have ARC or eARC than I would definitely get the arcana for LLDV (low latency Dolby Vision) as it tricks the 4k player into thinking the P1 or 2 are DV capable, then remaps the color tones to HDR10 in sub 1ms. It still blacks out for a second when switching from SDR to HDR but there is no way around that. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## oneil50

Got same problem with Pioneer amp and NVIDIA Shield. 
Like I said before, same hdmi setting (12 ou 10bit on 4.2.0 @60fps) with my zidoo and BD player are working properly without any drop or snow.
For me snow is only with Shield on 12 bit and drop only on 10 bit.
NVIDIA SHIELD got wrong tone mapping on HDR and switching picture setting (natural, movie....) is doing no change.
It's same with fire TV since the last release and mibox 3. I think it's since Android TV 9.0 and P1 should update about this.
I'm looking for a new VOD box who's not using Android. 
Someone got the P1 with Xbox one S or a Roku stick ?


----------



## Christian Spiga

If can be useful, i'm really going crazy with my UHZ65UST, i don't know if is related with the EDID problem, but since i have the Xbox Series X connected to HDMI 1, all the preset, Cinema, Bright, User, etc had all the values everytime at 0 (Color 0, Contrast 0), if i change preset, the image change on screen but all the values stay at 0.

If i play a game, in HDR, than when i come back to the Home Screen of the Xbox, is all darker, and there is no way to come back in a normal situation, only if i continue to play HDR contents the image come back good.

Every day more problems.
Color bending, Upper left and upper right impossible to be focused together, Sound sometime don't work, 10 seconds to change display mode with the snow screen and no input in the meantime, rattleling sound sometime probably fro the color wheel.

I wait the end of the holidays and than i send back this ****.


----------



## diggumsmax

Bill97Z said:


> I feel like optoma is big enough and has a reputation in the industry that there is an expectation for them to support their products which is one reason why people paid a premium. I have a VAVA and even with them being a small newcomer to UST projectors have gotten several firmware updates in the last 2 months to improve user experience. It's kind of disappointing IMO if Optoma is prioritizing support for the P2


I'm starting to agree with you especially now that they're prioritizing the P2. COVID is no longer an excuse. People can write software and firmware updates from their home. Test on a P1 at home and have virtual meetings with others to discuss what needs to be done to address the issues on the P1. Optoma is not doing that and I am going to go back and sign that ticket because their lack of response in this thread or to anyone is pretty disappointing because I've never had an issue with Optoma before. I was cutting on some slack due to the tariffs and covid-19 but the time has come where they need to fix the issues on the P1 or they're risking a class action lawsuit. 


Like the EDID issues posted by the previous poster. Yes, I got rid of them but I had to order an HD fury product in order to get rid of the EDID problems I had with both my shield and Xbox One X, I had tons of dropouts and snow with both devices. 14 months after release in two software/firmware updates. One was a day one update and there's only been one sense then. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Bill97Z

I find it really odd they released the P2 so quickly after the P1, and it's not much different. I almost want to say the P2 is the P1 without most of the bugs.....

Maybe everyone should push Optoma to replace their P1's with P2's if they are not supporting P1's anymore which should still be under warranty!



diggumsmax said:


> I'm starting to agree with you especially now that they're prioritizing the P2. COVID is no longer an excuse. People can write software and firmware updates from their home. Test on a P1 at home and have virtual meetings with others to discuss what needs to be done to address the issues on the P1. Optoma is not doing that and I am going to go back and sign that ticket because their lack of response in this thread or to anyone is pretty disappointing because I've never had an issue with Optoma before. I was cutting on some slack due to the tariffs and covid-19 but the time has come where they need to fix the issues on the P1 or they're risking a class action lawsuit.
> 
> 
> Like the EDID issues posted by the previous poster. Yes, I got rid of them but I had to order an HD fury product in order to get rid of the EDID problems I had with both my shield and Xbox One X, I had tons of dropouts and snow with both devices. 14 months after release in two software/firmware updates. One was a day one update and there's only been one sense then.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

The whole thing is bizarre. They announced the P2 on one day and the next day they cancel the P1. Authorized resellers still had units on backorder to ship. But I had to contact their customers and let them know that the P2 was their only option. I do t think Optoma was making any money off the P1 or potentially losing money. Even though the P2 has a better color wheel that doesn't mean it's not cheaper to make. We also don't know what components they changed on the main board. This would be a big deal when doing firmware updates for the P2 and P1, If they made a lot of changes to say some of the chips on the main board then that is going to be huge when writing firmware updayes because the more the hardware is different the more it branches off for the code. I think they gave authorized resellers like one day notice if that. And obviously they were under NDA's so they could not say anything.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## zekonavsforum

diggumsmax said:


> The whole thing is bizarre. They announced the P2 on one day and the next day they cancel the P1. Authorized resellers still had units on backorder to ship. But I had to contact their customers and let them know that the P2 was their only option. I do t think Optoma was making any money off the P1 or potentially losing money. Even though the P2 has a better color wheel that doesn't mean it's not cheaper to make. We also don't know what components they changed on the main board. This would be a big deal when doing firmware updates for the P2 and P1, If they made a lot of changes to say some of the chips on the main board then that is going to be huge when writing firmware updayes because the more the hardware is different the more it branches off for the code. I think they gave authorized resellers like one day notice if that. And obviously they were under NDA's so they could not say anything.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Hi, for the moment i keep hope, because :

optoma france answers to my tweet 2 days ago, saying that they're currently working on a new firmware for P1 and UHZ65UST, to be delivered soon. ( original message in french : " _pour répondre aux demandes, nous sommes effectivement en train de travailler sur un nouveau firmware pour les CinemaX P1 et CinemaX UHZ65UST. Nous espérons qu'il sera disponible prochainement !_ " )
optoma us proposed me a virtual meeting with optoma france, to discuss about issues, i will put back here my report of the discussion.

The instability thing ( EDID or not EDID ) is the priority issue I think, the others issues are the known bugs from the last firmware. 

Today I tried to focus on the EDID problem, to find a proof. I tried with a PC to make a custom INF file for the projector (with moninfo) , and changed display driver to it. Some says that with this manipulation, the EDID is no more necessary for discovery. But I've encountered the same instability problems. .. I can read my Optoma UHZ65UST EDID info without problem, but don't know how to find a proof that it's an EDID problem : anyone can help me how to prove that ?

At least it seems that the hdfury thing ( or other EDID emulator ? ) gives a solution.. even if it's not an Optoma solution..


----------



## zekonavsforum

Hi all,

Thanks to Emmanuelle, Lilian, and Allen, from Optoma, for the today's videoconference meeting.

Optoma apologize for the delay, and a new firmware is now in progress. 

Now I really think the petition will end in a positive state for everyone, when the next firmware will be released in 2021 with corrected bugs. 

We can help them, by giving exhaustive details about issues contexts, for them to reproduce, ... and to validate the correction : hardware details, software details, hdmi cable types, sources videos, method to reproduce the issue, ...
If anyone wants to give some time for that, and help me, please contact me in private message ( 1 or 2, not the entire world uuuh  ).


----------



## bbyrneozarch

Related to the P1 has anyone had an issue with a blinking red light above the power button? The manual says it’s a overheating/ lamp issue. I reset and unplugged everything and it’s still blinking. The projector will power on and function fine. Is this something that needs to be sent in for warranty repair? For those of you who have had repairs done what has been your experience? I can’t get customer service to pick up the phone so I’m worried this will end up being a very long drawn out process.


----------



## diggumsmax

Sounds like a faulty fan or temperature sensor issue. I'm obviously guessing so I could be wrong but it sounds like it's a legit issue. I would contact Optoma, or the retailer depending on who you bought it and if you have a warranty with them. I have not had any experience with returning any projector to Optima for an RMA. Depending on when you bought it I would probably request a P2, doesn't hurt to try unless you got the 3500 lumens model. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## diggumsmax

zekonavsforum said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Thanks to Emmanuelle, Lilian, and Allen, from Optoma, for the today's videoconference meeting.
> 
> Optoma apologize for the delay, and a new firmware is now in progress.
> 
> Now I really think the petition will end in a positive state for everyone, when the next firmware will be released in 2021 with corrected bugs.
> 
> We can help them, by giving exhaustive details about issues contexts, for them to reproduce, ... and to validate the correction : hardware details, software details, hdmi cable types, sources videos, method to reproduce the issue, ...
> If anyone wants to give some time for that, and help me, please contact me in private message ( 1 or 2, not the entire world uuuh  ).


I'm going to go e them all the details I have. The two major outstanding ones, for me, are dynamic black getting dark after 15 minutes and EDID issues. Now, I ended up getting an HDFury device that fixed all dropouts and snow but I had major issues with both My shield pro 2019 and Xbox One X. EDID issues is the only reason as of I take my avrkey out of the mix the dropouts come back and the key has very minimal EDID correction. I'm a casual gamer and I pretty much given up on the lag getting any better. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## oneil50

zekonavsforum said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Thanks to Emmanuelle, Lilian, and Allen, from Optoma, for the today's videoconference meeting.
> 
> Optoma apologize for the delay, and a new firmware is now in progress.
> 
> Now I really think the petition will end in a positive state for everyone, when the next firmware will be released in 2021 with corrected bugs.
> 
> We can help them, by giving exhaustive details about issues contexts, for them to reproduce, ... and to validate the correction : hardware details, software details, hdmi cable types, sources videos, method to reproduce the issue, ...
> If anyone wants to give some time for that, and help me, please contact me in private message ( 1 or 2, not the entire world uuuh  ).


Thanks for these information.
Release in 2021 it's top late.... January or may or december ?
Can we just open a share calc/sheet for users who want to write all bug ?
Edit : I start a google Sheet if you want to report these bug.








Optoma P1 Bug report


Feuille 1 Bug report Optoma P1/UHZ65UST Member name,HDMI cable,Power Amp,Device,Others Oneil50,Moshou HDMI 2.1 optical 10m,Pioneer VSX 930,Nvidia Shield TV 2017 HDMI 50cm 18gbits certified,Fire TV stick 4k Zidoo X9S Panasonic UB 400 Bug report :,1 - HDR is correctly detected with Nvidia Shield T...




docs.google.com


----------



## dinesh26uk

bbyrneozarch said:


> Related to the P1 has anyone had an issue with a blinking red light above the power button? The manual says it’s a overheating/ lamp issue. I reset and unplugged everything and it’s still blinking. The projector will power on and function fine. Is this something that needs to be sent in for warranty repair? For those of you who have had repairs done what has been your experience? I can’t get customer service to pick up the phone so I’m worried this will end up being a very long drawn out process.


Hi, I just had the same issue. Came to turn it on today and the temp light on was flashing but it's working fine after restarting. Will keep an eye out for other issues


----------



## voktos

bbyrneozarch said:


> Related to the P1 has anyone had an issue with a blinking red light above the power button? The manual says it’s a overheating/ lamp issue. I reset and unplugged everything and it’s still blinking. The projector will power on and function fine. Is this something that needs to be sent in for warranty repair? For those of you who have had repairs done what has been your experience? I can’t get customer service to pick up the phone so I’m worried this will end up being a very long drawn out process.


I think it might be a bug related to HDMI-CEC. My UHZ65UST is connected to an Apple TV, and I get the blinking red light about 20% of time Apple TV goes to sleep (and shuts down the projector).


----------



## zekonavsforum

oneil50 said:


> Thanks for these information.
> Release in 2021 it's top late.... January or may or december ?
> Can we just open a share calc/sheet for users who want to write all bug ?
> Edit : I start a google Sheet if you want to report these bug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Optoma P1 Bug report
> 
> 
> Feuille 1 Bug report Optoma P1/UHZ65UST Member name,HDMI cable,Power Amp,Device,Others Oneil50,Moshou HDMI 2.1 optical 10m,Pioneer VSX 930,Nvidia Shield TV 2017 HDMI 50cm 18gbits certified,Fire TV stick 4k Zidoo X9S Panasonic UB 400 Bug report :,1 - HDR is correctly detected with Nvidia Shield T...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> docs.google.com


Hi ! Thank you for you shared google sheet, it's very good idea : I will put my informations in it, and inform Optoma to use it.

I propose we make tests with a few samples 4K HDR files us and Optoma can find online : for example at Samples - Official Kodi Wiki 

Tomorrow I will try to focus on the disconnections/EDID problem by finding a reproducable way to show the bug each time.. but for the moment it's very random with my computer ( during windows desktop [email protected] without gaming mode, during rocket league in [email protected] with gaming mode, ... )


----------



## jhbball2002

When is the new firmware being released? December?


----------



## zekonavsforum

jhbball2002 said:


> When is the new firmware being released? December?


Hi,

During the meeting, Optoma has not given a precise date, they are still fixing bugs and testing corrections,so maybe january or february ?

Now I'm sure that Optoma is working on it, my personnal opinion is that I prefer waiting again some weeks and have a stable firmware and fixed bugs. 

That's why we collect details about issues and I'll send them to Optoma ( with help of Oneil50, diggumsmax, and Jan L for the moment)


----------



## rayhk

zekonavsforum said:


> Hi,
> 
> During the meeting, Optoma has not given a precise date, they are still fixing bugs and testing corrections,so maybe january or february ?
> 
> Now I'm sure that Optoma is working on it, my personnal opinion is that I prefer waiting again some weeks and have a stable firmware and fixed bugs.
> 
> That's why we collect details about issues and I'll send them to Optoma ( with help of Oneil50, diggumsmax, and Jan L for the moment)


Thanks for you guys' effort.

How about asking Optoma to speed up the release the new firmware first so that we can check if the previous reported problem have been resolved or not. Perhaps, some of the previous reported problems will be resolved by the new firmware that is under tested. I am worried that Optima will find more reasons to further delay the release of the firmware if we want them to resolve all the problems in one new firmware.

Anyway, thanks for your efforts again.


----------



## Christian Spiga

Sorry but i don't think that Optoma need examples of all the problems, because they know exactly all the problems, and most of them are not fixable with a firmware.
A lot of P1/UHZ have color banding, that is a problem of wheel or problem of focus on the upper angles that is a lens problem.

Since August, the only new real problems are about EDID, HDR, worst connection, darker image, Game mode that is a joke.

Optoma know everything, and if we continue yo wait a firmware upgrade that solve all, guys.... take a look to your warranty that can expire before they try to solve something.

The only solution is to send the projector to the support as late as possible, because could be that in this time they have all the necessary knowledge and hardware to change what since the beginning was wrong developed.


----------



## jhbball2002

I was told in a support ticket that they would be releasing firmware in Decemeber. Hopefully that's true - or they need to start handing out P2s as replacements.


----------



## maverick87r

Struggling to dial in the Audio delay on my receiver (pioneer vsx-lx503) Any tips or suggestions?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## oneil50

maverick87r said:


> Struggling to dial in the Audio delay on my receiver (pioneer vsx-lx503) Any tips or suggestions?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


I'm using 90ms delay on my Pioneer. Sound is now perfectly Sync with the video.


----------



## zekonavsforum

Christian Spiga said:


> Sorry but i don't think that Optoma need examples of all the problems, because they know exactly all the problems, and most of them are not fixable with a firmware.
> A lot of P1/UHZ have color banding, that is a problem of wheel or problem of focus on the upper angles that is a lens problem.
> 
> Since August, the only new real problems are about EDID, HDR, worst connection, darker image, Game mode that is a joke.
> 
> Optoma know everything, and if we continue yo wait a firmware upgrade that solve all, guys.... take a look to your warranty that can expire before they try to solve something.
> 
> The only solution is to send the projector to the support as late as possible, because could be that in this time they have all the necessary knowledge and hardware to change what since the beginning was wrong developed.


Hi Christian, 

About EDID, I'm searching a way to prove/reproduce the EDID problem on-demand ( with EDID monitoring each seconds, or something else ), because for the moment it's very random. Yesterday I've have 2 disconnections on netflix with house of cards and superman (movie), with my computer. Even on windows 10 desktop, there is sometime 1 or 2 disconnections/reconnections without doing anything.

I'm a developper, so I'm trying to make a variant of https://github.com/GPUOpen-LibrariesAndSDKs with my PC and RADEON RX-470 to create a code that tracks EDID informations further times per second to find any changes. It's not working yet, but there may be other ways more simple ?

For the moment, I'm keeping hope in some "magic" with the future new firmware ..


----------



## zekonavsforum

oneil50 said:


> I'm using 90ms delay on my Pioneer. Sound is now perfectly Sync with the video.


Good to know ! Anyone has a yamaha receiver that works with this projector ? ( with auto fixing delay, or with manuel delay adjustement ? )


----------



## chinmokutak

Has anyone got Harmony remote to work on P1?


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## oneil50

chinmokutak said:


> Has anyone got Harmony remote to work on P1?


Got harmony elit with hub. Works fine


----------



## chinmokutak

oneil50 said:


> Got harmony elit with hub. Works fine


how did you set it up just via regular adding a device route? I can't set it up for some reason


----------



## namtech

Happy new year folks and some update from my Pj situation.

My UHZ65UST finally came back from maintenance (read post history if you care for backstory). 

Service adjusted the Color Wheel (which fixed ALL color banding)
They also replaced the complete Laserengine, which fixed corner sharpness issues (could only make upper right or. upper left corner sharp, but not both)
And they replaced some rattling fan (something i did not notice while it was in my living room so that fan presumably got loosed during transport)

now, i should be happy, right? If the bloody f*****n annoying buzzing sound would not have come back with the replaced (read: freshly shipped spare part from Optoma) Engine.

I had multiple UHZ65UST, first one was replace due to coil whine. 2nd and 3rd UNIT where replaced because of the buzzing but all units i got had the same issue. 
Then they switched me to an older production batch unit, which was dead silent but had the issues above, which caused me to send the refurbished unit to service; and which led to replacing the engine of my refurbished unit to make unusable like the previous units i had. Oh and the buzzing...that is, i quote: "inside tolerance". Yeah, right, my a***

and that gentleman was it now, for me, with Optoma and their sh*** quality control. I asked for a refund, i hope will get feedback on Monday. If they dont refund, i may have a cheap UHZ65UST with 
complete new engine for sale in a few days (location germany - but shipping in europe should not be a problem)

I may attempt going for a P2 - but honestly i lost trust in Optoma for now. Maybe that changes in the future again.

Will now read more deeply into LG and new Samsung UST

I am happy for all you guys, that dont have any problems with theirs. It is a great device IF everything is working as intended (not talking about Software/bugs/etc) but for me its a steaming hot pile of...you know the rest.


----------



## tambur123

I’m planning to have this projector isf calibrated. Will a future firmware upgrade require a new calibration?


----------



## namtech

tambur123 said:


> I’m planning to have this projector isf calibrated. Will a future firmware upgrade require a new calibration?


A new calibration? no, very unlikely. However you should make sure to save the calibration settings as any firmware update "could" cause calibration values to be returned to default values.


----------



## th8ter

Not sure about the Yamaha but the Denon 3700 absolutely will not work with the P1. The HDMI handshake issues are so frustrating. I have tried about all the settings on the Denon and the P1 and it liter takes 12-15 minutes for the projector and receiver to sync up. Then every time you want to change apps another 10 minutes to re-sync. When I have friends over it is so embarrassing.


----------



## namtech

th8ter said:


> Not sure about the Yamaha but the Denon 3700 absolutely will not work with the P1. The HDMI handshake issues are so frustrating. I have tried about all the settings on the Denon and the P1 and it liter takes 12-15 minutes for the projector and receiver to sync up. Then every time you want to change apps another 10 minutes to re-sync. When I have friends over it is so embarrassing.


try and set puremotion to 0 and set sources to change resolution to match content - that should fix lip sync issues.


----------



## solal-

th8ter said:


> Not sure about the Yamaha but the Denon 3700 absolutely will not work with the P1. The HDMI handshake issues are so frustrating. I have tried about all the settings on the Denon and the P1 and it liter takes 12-15 minutes for the projector and receiver to sync up. Then every time you want to change apps another 10 minutes to re-sync. When I have friends over it is so embarrassing.


I use a denon avr-x2600h and never got any sync issue before or after the update. But I use only moshou 8k cable of max 2 meters long or hdmi over optic cable for longer distance (I have two lemorel of 10 meters and it work well in 4k hdr without desync)


----------



## zekonavsforum

Hi, and happy new year ! Today 100 owners have signed the petition.

I've just sent to my Optoma contacts, the link to the shared sheet with detailed configurations and problems ( thanks Oneil and Christian Spiga ) : Optoma P1 Bug report

*👉This is a call for owners contribution : *add your detailed configurations and problems to this shared sheet, to help Optoma reproduce and correct the bugs : anything related to HDMI unstability : random image disconnection/reconnection, black screen, even "snow effect", should be noted inside... 🤞

I asked Optoma for visibility, release date ... and if they need help 💪(testing video samples, some hardware, some configurations, ..).

To be continued,


----------



## Micke S

I've had my P1 for close to a year, and yesterday a white dead pixel appeared, smack dab in the middle of the screen. Anyone else had any issues with dead pixels? Contacted support about it, and if so what was the remedy?

I believe there is one other dead pixel but it's black and not in the middle so I didn't notice it before doing an examination of the picture when I saw this white dead one, but this one is impossible not to see at all times. Frustrating.


----------



## namtech

Micke S said:


> I've had my P1 for close to a year, and yesterday a white dead pixel appeared, smack dab in the middle of the screen. Anyone else had any issues with dead pixels? Contacted support about it, and if so what was the remedy?
> 
> I believe there is one other dead pixel but it's black and not in the middle so I didn't notice it before doing an examination of the picture when I saw this white dead one, but this one is impossible not to see at all times. Frustrating.


Did you try to resetting the unit? if it persists after reset, support will probably replace the engine (assuming you are covered by warranty)


----------



## Micke S

namtech said:


> Did you try to resetting the unit? if it persists after reset, support will probably replace the engine (assuming you are covered by warranty)


Have not tried that. Will give it a try!

Their site says a P1 has a 2 year warranty so I assume it's covered.


----------



## dinesh26uk

Hi, anyone managed to get a fire TV stick to work in controlling the volume of the optoma. The remote is able to turn on the projector and mute it but can't change the volume incrementally. Thanks


----------



## th8ter

namtech said:


> try and set puremotion to 0 and set sources to change resolution to match content - that should fix lip sync issues.


Not having lip sync issues the issue I am having is the sync between the projector and receiver through HDMI. Thank you though


----------



## Christian Spiga

dinesh26uk said:


> Hi, anyone managed to get a fire TV stick to work in controlling the volume of the optoma. The remote is able to turn on the projector and mute it but can't change the volume incrementally. Thanks
> [/QUOTE
> 
> No chance. Don’t stress yourself, is impossible


----------



## Monkd

Somewhat stupid question. Is Cinemax pro = p1?? P1 spec seems like it has 3000 lumens like p2. While Cinemax pro has 3500 lumens. But they say UHZ65ust is the same as pro which was considered p1. I am quite confused.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Monkd said:


> Somewhat stupid question. Is Cinemax pro = p1?? P1 spec seems like it has 3000 lumens like p2. While Cinemax pro has 3500 lumens. But they say UHZ65ust is the same as pro which was considered p1. I am quite confused.


Cinemax P1 3000 lumens advertised
Cinemax P2 3000 lumens advertised
Cinemax Pro=UHZ65UST 3500 lumens advertised

Calibrated they are closer to 2000


----------



## Monkd

Casey_Bryson said:


> Cinemax P1 3000 lumens advertised
> Cinemax P2 3000 lumens advertised
> Cinemax Pro=UHZ65UST 3500 lumens advertised
> 
> Calibrated they are closer to 2000


Thank you for the clarification. Some websites claim that p1 was UHZ65ust so I was quite confused.


----------



## Christian Spiga

I finally decide to send my UHZ65UST to service. The next move when will be hopefuly fixed is to sell and buy something better.

Someone of you know a UST projector with a better quality image to buy?


----------



## namtech

Christian Spiga said:


> I finally decide to send my UHZ65UST to service. The next move when will be hopefuly fixed is to sell and buy something better.
> 
> Someone of you know a UST projector with a better quality image to buy?


Better Image? I think your only options are LG HU85LS or Samsung LSP9T in that case. They have different kind of issues tho...like the red laser speckle and uncontrollable brightness on the Samsung one and i have read numerous times that the LG one often suffers from coil whine.

Maybe try a P2 - but the picture to the P1 is not that drastically different with the exception of better colors.


----------



## Christian Spiga

I will never buy again an Optoma. The way they treated us, after giving them € 3.300 is something that i cannot accept.
A 1 year old projector, left without support or good updates is something that they must pay in a way.

I will probably invest my money in the new Samsung LSP9T, cost double but there is noone that have more than 103% of Rec. 2020.
The only think that i don't like that is not Hdmi 2.1.


----------



## namtech

Christian Spiga said:


> I will never buy again an Optoma. The way they treated us, after giving them € 3.300 is something that i cannot accept.
> A 1 year old projector, left without support or good updates is something that they must pay in a way.
> 
> I will probably invest my money in the new Samsung LSP9T, cost double but there is noone that have more than 103% of Rec. 2020.
> The only think that i don't like that is not Hdmi 2.1.


i think you are exaggerating drastically and there is no "us" you are speaking for, this is your own perception.

Yes, "some" people are unhappy with their update politics (and if you read my posts and story you will see that i had a very very bad streak of luck with them myself) but probably MOST people are happy with them and they dont care about certain bugs that affect a minority - like green tint after game mode, which is more like a nuisance that you can fix yourself. Besides some HW issues and more SW problems, in this price class, the P1/Pro/P2 are still "amongst" the best.

So what about having 103% of REC. 2020 - this is like riding on tech specs that you will never notice unless you have a side by side comparison with another projector. Also read the LSP9T Thread were people complain about getting headache from the Red Laser.
Dont get me wrong, i am not protecting Optoma in any way and i am very pissed about them myself after my UHZ65UST odyssey - however after careful consideration of the alternatives i still decided to go with a UHZ60UST (P2) instead of moving to Samsung or LG. If you think 103% BT2020 is worth 6500 Euro, go for it - but don't complain about Samsung later who will give even less about if you encounter a BUG and try to get someone responsible on the Hotline of a Company that also builds Refrigerators. At least Optomas main brand are Projectors.


----------



## Roger92

The product is full of image bugs including image banding et pilexisation. Not acceptable for a product at this price. First and last optoma product for me. Not a single image issue with my previous xiaomi ust 150


----------



## namtech

Roger92 said:


> The product is full of image bugs including image banding et pilexisation. Not acceptable for a product at this price. First and last optoma product for me. Not a single image issue with my previous xiaomi ust 150


Color Banding is not a bug, it is caused by the Color Wheel being out phase (which seems to happen very rarely) and that can be easily fixed by Optoma Service.
Not sure what you mean with pixelation.

Also, try to find a Service Partner for a XIAOMI UST if it has technical issues and needs maintenance.


----------



## Jan L

Roger92 said:


> The product is full of image bugs including image banding et pilexisation. Not acceptable for a product at this price. First and last optoma product for me. Not a single image issue with my previous xiaomi ust 150


Same for me. Still, currently no ust on the Market i consider a worth improvement. Gonna wait...


----------



## namtech

Jan L said:


> Same for me. Still, currently no ust on the Market i consider a worth improvement. Gonna wait...


Since i know about your banding problem, why aren't you raising a Ticket with Optoma Service and get it fixed? 
The adjustment of the Color Wheel seems to fairly straight forward and it fixed the issue on mine when i still had it.


----------



## Jan L

Thats something I will do (again). The last time it was in repair for 6-8 weeks...so its hard to find motivation.  

Cant they do a calibration while having it as kind of "sorry for the delay"


----------



## th8ter

I would have to agree pretty sure I will not give Optoma any more of my hard earned money.


----------



## Christian Spiga

namtech said:


> i think you are exaggerating drastically and there is no "us" you are speaking for, this is your own perception.
> 
> Yes, "some" people are unhappy with their update politics (and if you read my posts and story you will see that i had a very very bad streak of luck with them myself) but probably MOST people are happy with them and they dont care about certain bugs that affect a minority - like green tint after game mode, which is more like a nuisance that you can fix yourself. Besides some HW issues and more SW problems, in this price class, the P1/Pro/P2 are still "amongst" the best.
> 
> So what about having 103% of REC. 2020 - this is like riding on tech specs that you will never notice unless you have a side by side comparison with another projector. Also read the LSP9T Thread were people complain about getting headache from the Red Laser.
> Dont get me wrong, i am not protecting Optoma in any way and i am very pissed about them myself after my UHZ65UST odyssey - however after careful consideration of the alternatives i still decided to go with a UHZ60UST (P2) instead of moving to Samsung or LG. If you think 103% BT2020 is worth 6500 Euro, go for it - but don't complain about Samsung later who will give even less about if you encounter a BUG and try to get someone responsible on the Hotline of a Company that also builds Refrigerators. At least Optomas main brand are Projectors.


I think the unhappy people are more than you think.

The Color Banding and the Focus problem of the upper / right corner is everywhere.

What bothers me are not technical problems, which can happen and must be solved, but how fast they go out with the P2, it's like they said: 

"Ehi guys, we did a projector full of bugs, it's really difficult to fix all because the problem is deep in the project, it's better to do a new model!".

THIS MAKE ME CRAZY.

And about the Samsung, the Rec. 2020 was only an example, it's really better in a lot of things, of course cost double, but is definetly the top now in his price.

Or we want to talk about the Optoma operating system / interface, ahahahhaa, that seems a joke. 
I would really feel ridiculous to produce in 2020 something with this O.S.


----------



## Jan L

Christian Spiga said:


> I think the unhappy people are more than you think.
> 
> The Color Banding and the Focus problem of the upper / right corner is everywhere.
> 
> What bothers me are not technical problems, which can happen and must be solved, but how fast they go out with the P2, it's like they said:
> 
> "Ehi guys, we did a projector full of bugs, it's really difficult to fix all because the problem is deep in the project, it's better to do a new model!".
> 
> THIS MAKE ME CRAZY.
> 
> And about the Samsung, the Rec. 2020 was only an example, it's really better in a lot of things, of course cost double, but is definetly the top now in his price.
> 
> Or we want to talk about the Optoma operating system / interface, ahahahhaa, that seems a joke.
> I would really feel ridiculous to produce in 2020 something with this O.S.


That they kinda discontinued the uhz65ust is in a way understandable.. why getting more and more users on top of the already angry ones unhappy with it, when they can learn from their mistakes they made and make at least the new buyers happy.

As long as they fix our issues within warranty, its fine and basically capitalism....all good.

Not answering/ stopping communication and not fixing obvious bugs thats a *NoGO*!


----------



## Roger92

Mine is 3 weeks old ! If I have to send it back It will take at least 3 weeks without a TV 😡 below are examples of images issues banding/pixels showing


----------



## namtech

Roger92 said:


> Mine is 3 weeks old ! If I have to send it back It will take at least 3 weeks without a TV 😡 below are examples of images issues banding/pixels showing
> View attachment 3081721
> View attachment 3081722


Pixelgrid showing is not a bug. It seems you are not using a screen, that is why you can see the pixel grid that easily, even with screen i can see the grid on mine if go very close to it.
Banding is a problem, support usually sends you a greyscale gradient picture that you need to check out with max color depth so they confirm its a misaligned color wheel.
Not 100% of all banding issues come from the color wheel, can also be caused by the input source / mismatched color spaces.


----------



## Roger92

Not coming from the wall. Definitively a banding issue and lack of smooth color gradient


----------



## namtech

Roger92 said:


> Not coming from the wall. Definitively a banding issue and lack of smooth color gradient
> View attachment 3081725


i meant the pixel grid issue with being more visible without a screen.
Your Banding issue could come from the Wheel.

Two different problems you described


----------



## Roger92

For a projector bought 3 weeks ago this is totally unacceptable. Anyone knows the codes to access the service menu ?


----------



## Jan L

Roger92 said:


> For a projector bought 3 weeks ago this is totally unacceptable.


Did this occur after three weeks or has it been there from the beginning? With mine, which I sent in already, it always appeared after a while...also a reason im not motivated to send it in over and over again. (Opened a ticket Yesterday)


----------



## namtech

Roger92 said:


> For a projector bought 3 weeks ago this is totally unacceptable.


i am not disagreeing with you, quality control in this particular context is not very good.
Still, banding is a rare issue, when i encountered mine i spoke with lots of distributors and this is in fact not widely spread. Some of them even never heard about it.
But as i said, not all color banding issues come from the wheel, i've seen banding coming from wonkey sources or drastically misadjusted settings for contrast/gain


----------



## Jan L

namtech said:


> i am not disagreeing with you, quality control in this particular context is not very good.
> Still, banding is a rare issue, when i encountered mine i spoke with lots of distributors and this is in fact not widely spread. Some of them even never heard about it.
> But as i said, not all color banding issues come from the wheel, i've seen banding coming from wonkey sources or drastically misadjusted settings for contrast/gain


Same sources plugged in to Monitor, perfect... optoma Banding....yes it depends on the Input quality Bitrate and so on, but other displays/Projektors can handle it fine. Optoma only can give good results with perfect Input basically. 

Heimkino Settings / calibrated settings - Same issue. And even a Feature Like brilliant color and dynamic black is No excuse, since they advertise it.


----------



## namtech

Jan L said:


> Same sources plugged in to Monitor, perfect... optoma Banding....yes it depends on the Input quality Bitrate and so on, but other displays/Projektors can handle it fine. Optoma only can give good results with perfect Input basically.
> 
> Heimkino Settings / calibrated settings - Same issue. And even a Feature Like brilliant color and dynamic black is No excuse, since they advertise it.


Heimkino or Heimkinoraum? .-) Heimkinoraum calibration is extremly overtuned. Heimkino for example has BQ set to very low values. Heimkinoraum sets it to maximum.
But it doesnt matter: If its from the color wheel, it can be fixed. And yes, it should not happen even in the first place .-)


----------



## Roger92

Jan L said:


> Did this occur after three weeks or has it been there from the beginning? With mine, which I sent in already, it always appeared after a while...also a reason im not motivated to send it in over and over again. (Opened a ticket Yesterday)


 Since the beginning it has been there. I think I’m going to back to xiaomi. Blacks were better and no such issue.


----------



## Roger92

First picture is with active color ON 😡 others are with active color set to 1


----------



## Christian Spiga

Roger92 said:


> For a projector bought 3 weeks ago this is totally unacceptable. Anyone knows the codes to access the service menu ?


Power - UP - RIGHT - UP - LEFT - MENU

There is also a pattern where you can see the color banding in all is his beautiful greatness AHAAHAHAHHAAHHA


----------



## Roger92

Christian Spiga said:


> Power - UP - RIGHT - UP - LEFT - MENU
> 
> There is also a pattern where you can see the color banding in all is his beautiful greatness AHAAHAHAHHAAHHA


trying your code but nothing happens 😩😩😩
Each must be pressed individually ?
Which menu button are you reffering to ?


----------



## Christian Spiga

Roger92 said:


> trying your code but nothing happens 😩😩😩
> Each must be pressed individually ?
> Which menu button are you reffering to ?
> 
> View attachment 3081755


Sorry Man, i wrote wrong.

IS: POWER - UP - DOWN - MENU

Menu is the upper right button with the 3 lines.

In the test pattern you can test your banding.


----------



## Christian Spiga

This is the “pixelation” that the other User was trying to explain. 
In the test pattern you can see perfectly


----------



## zekonavsforum

Hi all, 

I got color banding sometimes too, depending on the sources. But playing with modes and params (reference). Cinema mode gives badest effects, user mode or reference mode with params reduced to 0 eliminates "sometimes" the banding. On 4k HDR sources, seems to have no banding.
@Roger92 : what is "active color" ? Do you mean "brillant colors" ?

I've just had news from Optoma on 20/01/2021 (following of the petition who have now 104 followers, and my meeting with them on 17/12/2020), here is the original answer of Allen (Optoma UK Team on the P1/UHZ65UST corrections) :
" _I wanted to follow up on the email below to give you an update on the situation. Since our call previously we have raised the issue of point 6 below, obtaining a unit to test and run firmware on.
We have hit a few walls with this process due to all of the drama at the end of 2020 / start of 2021 with shipping to the UK and also limited office working (UK COVID lockdown related actions)
I will look to get an update form the testing & development teams and provide you with feedback._ "
This point 6 is about HDMI unstability : random image disconnection/reconnection, black screen for a few milliseconds, sometime 1 second, or even "snow effect"... (also known as "EDID problem")

To be continued..


----------



## Roger92

Christian Spiga said:


> Sorry Man, i wrote wrong.
> 
> IS: POWER - UP - DOWN - MENU
> 
> Menu is the upper right button with the 3 lines.
> 
> In the test pattern you can test your banding.


Still not working for me. No service menu is displaying. I have the EU version ☹


----------



## Roger92

Yes I meant brilliant color and not active color


----------



## Roger92

Just ordered a Xiaomi 4K 1S so I can have a replacement during the time the optoma will stay on repair. will decide which one to keep upon the return of the optoma from the service center.


----------



## Christian Spiga

Roger92 said:


> Still not working for me. No service menu is displaying. I have the EU version ☹


hey is not possible. I have also uhz65ust.

when the projector is on, you press one time the ON button, so you see the 2 squared icon to compete the turning off or stay in audio mode,than UP, than DOWN, than MENU.

is super easy, cannot not work


----------



## maverick87r

Anyone using a harmony remote with this? Seems very hit and miss on power and trying to figure out the best placement for the it repeater.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Roger92 said:


> Just ordered a Xiaomi 4K 1S so I can have a replacement during the time the optoma will stay on repair. will decide which one to keep upon the return of the optoma from the service center.


Good move, but you'll likely be selling the Optoma once you get your hands on the 1S as long as you can bare the noise difference. I had the P2 recently and was relieved when I returned it and went back to my Fengmi--it's that much of a difference. Best of luck.


----------



## Roger92

Casey_Bryson said:


> Good move, but you'll likely be selling the Optoma once you get your hands on the 1S as long as you can bare the noise difference. I had the P2 recently and was relieved when I returned it and went back to my Fengmi--it's that much of a difference. Best of luck.


I agree. Xiaomi has a very nice picture. Was very happy with my previous MI 150. The only thing is that it is noisier and it has much less setting options.


----------



## Mick Seymour

maverick87r said:


> Anyone using a harmony remote with this? Seems very hit and miss on power and trying to figure out the best placement for the it repeater.


I'm using a Harmony 900. I use the RF module for all of my kit except the PJ as the IR signal from the module doesn't reach it or it just doesn't work with the PJ; I'm not sure which. I just point the remote at the PJ for the short time it takes.

Under Adjust power settings:
A button on the remote for on and a different button for off
My device needs more than one command to turn it on and off
Turning on, I don't have the original remote but I know the command to use - PowerToggle
Turning off, I don't have the original remote but I know the command to use - PowerToggle, PowerToggle

Under Adjust the delays (speed settings)
Power On Delay 35000
Inter-key Delay 100
Inter-Device Delay 1500

This works for turning on and off every time.


----------



## hockey1980

Hi all, I have a UHZ65UST with an NVidia Shield 2019, connected via a short 4K HDMI cable. I have contacted Optoma support and waiting reply but wanted your view

Anything HDR sucks - it dims and takes all the joy out. Always thought HDR was meant to give a better more vibrant and punchy picture. All new material is HDR (films, shows etc.) so its really biting now.

Anything obvious in my setup? You guys getting this? Would a different media streamer help?


----------



## oneil50

Roger92 said:


> I agree. Xiaomi has a very nice picture. Was very happy with my previous MI 150. The only thing is that it is noisier and it has much less setting options.


Xiaomi 4k and 1S delivered a nice picture, but there is a problem on all of these model. A metal plate bends with time and temp. Bending create vertical white lines on the image. More infirmation here (https://www.projectorjunkies.com/xiaomi-4k-laser-ust-projector-repair/)



hockey1980 said:


> Hi all, I have a UHZ65UST with an NVidia Shield 2019, connected via a short 4K HDMI cable. I have contacted Optoma support and waiting reply but wanted your view
> 
> Anything HDR sucks - it dims and takes all the joy out. Always thought HDR was meant to give a better more vibrant and punchy picture. All new material is HDR (films, shows etc.) so its really biting now.
> 
> Anything obvious in my setup? You guys getting this? Would a different media streamer help?


Optoma UHZ65UT/P1 got bad tone mapping with all Android Box with Android TV 8.0 or newest.
HDR on Shield TV look dark and when you change picture mode, nothing change. The last update on P2 fixed it, but we have to wait the next firmware for the P1.

So long to update !!! Optoma wake up !


----------



## hockey1980

oneil50 said:


> Optoma UHZ65UT/P1 got bad tone mapping with all Android Box with Android TV 8.0 or newest.
> HDR on Shield TV look dark and when you change picture mode, nothing change. The last update on P2 fixed it, but we have to wait the next firmware for the P1.
> 
> So long to update !!! Optoma wake up !


Thanks for the reply friend - almost year I've had this projector. Big buy for me, not easy.

Really should have been resolved now by firmware etc. Its the main selling point! 

*Optoma where are you?!!..............*

So assuming that the Apple 4K box will not have these issues then?


----------



## namtech

hockey1980 said:


> So assuming that the Apple 4K box will not have these issues then?


ATV 4K is fine - if you want to get it even better get an Hdfury Arcana for LLDV conversion, it really looks better.


----------



## hockey1980

namtech said:


> ATV 4K is fine - if you want to get it even better get an Hdfury Arcana for LLDV conversion, it really looks better.


Thanks for the great info - appreciated 

Shame I am considering another streaming box just to get the projector working because of fixable firmware issue that's been rumoured for an age now...


----------



## Roger92

Christian Spiga said:


> hey is not possible. I have also uhz65ust.
> 
> when the projector is on, you press one time the ON button, so you see the 2 squared icon to compete the turning off or stay in audio mode,than UP, than DOWN, than MENU.
> 
> is super easy, cannot not work


Still not working. It gives me the user regular menu and not the service menu 😩


----------



## oneil50

namtech said:


> ATV 4K is fine.


On direct ATV on P1 hdmi, I heard some EDID problem too. Can you confirm switch picture mode on HDR works ?
With old Android TV, any problem.
Can someone try with new and old Xbox ?


----------



## namtech

oneil50 said:


> On direct ATV on P1 hdmi, I heard some EDID problem too. Can you confirm switch picture mode on HDR works ?
> With old Android TV, any problem.
> Can someone try with new and old Xbox ?


i have an AVR and Hdfury in between, i dont if it would be a problem on a direct connection. Switching Modes was never an issue for me, sometimes it would take 2 seconds longer but it would always hit the proper mode. Anyway, i cant check for you anymore as i am now on a P2 which behaves very differently (better) in any way.


----------



## oneil50

namtech said:


> i have an AVR and Hdfury in between, i dont if it would be a problem on a direct connection. Switching Modes was never an issue for me, sometimes it would take 2 seconds longer but it would always hit the proper mode. Anyway, i cant check for you anymore as i am now on a P2 which behaves very differently (better) in any way.


Why are you using HDfury ? What's better with this ?


----------



## namtech

oneil50 said:


> Why are you using HDfury ? What's better with this ?


It allows native playback of Dolby Vision Content and will tone map to HDR supported on Projector, basically your ATV or whatever end device you have will be presented a Dolby Vision enabled EDID and you can enable enable Dolby Vision in Apple TV. It makes HDR much more enjoyable and it really looks better (not drastically but noticable)

see here: Enjoy Dynamic DV content from LLDV source on any HDR10 display. | HDFury.com | Connect and Fix everything in HDMI
With Arcana this is really plug and play, no messing in config files if you dont want to. You enable LLDV conversion and it works (you can tweak settings of course)


----------



## oneil50

namtech said:


> It allows native playback of Dolby Vision Content and will tone map to HDR supported on Projector, basically your ATV or whatever end device you have will be presented a Dolby Vision enabled EDID and you can enable enable Dolby Vision in Apple TV. It makes HDR much more enjoyable and it really looks better (not drastically but noticable)
> 
> see here: Enjoy Dynamic DV content from LLDV source on any HDR10 display. | HDFury.com | Connect and Fix everything in HDMI
> With Arcana this is really plug and play, no messing in config files if you dont want to. You enable LLDV conversion and it works (you can tweak settings of course)


Ok thanks I need more information :
What is the difference between Arcana and Vertex for video only ? I read Arcana is only to separate audio/video for old AVR.
If you play on ATV a SDR movie, with HDfury, P2 is playing on SDR or HDR ?
P2 switch between SDR and HDR like a normal use ?
When you switch image mode in this menu : https://www.passionhomecinema.fr/blog/wp-content/uploads/Sélections-image-Optoma-UHZ65UST-356x300.jpg Image is affect by switch or no ?
There is no EDID problem or lost hdmi black screen with HDfury and P2/P1 ?
How are you doing for connect 3 different hdmi source on a HDfury ?


----------



## namtech

oneil50 said:


> Ok thanks I need more information :
> What is the difference between Arcana and Vertex for video only ? I read Arcana is only to separate audio/video for old AVR.
> If you play on ATV a SDR movie, with HDfury, P2 is playing on SDR or HDR ?
> P2 switch between SDR and HDR like a normal use ?
> When you switch image mode in this menu : https://www.passionhomecinema.fr/blog/wp-content/uploads/Sélections-image-Optoma-UHZ65UST-356x300.jpg Image is affect by switch or no ?
> There is no EDID problem or lost hdmi black screen with HDfury and P2/P1 ?
> How are you doing for connect 3 different hdmi source on a HDfury ?


For detail difference, please read the description on the hdfury homepage. Their Devices are very versatile and highly flexible - and it is not "only" to separate audio and video. I use it only for Dolby Vision conversion, i am not touching audio or rerouting anything else. You CAN split audio but you dont have too. I recommend to check out the other threads in this forum that only discuss Arcana / Diva / Vertex modules. The easiest to use currently is Arcana.

SDR to HDR conversion is a completely different topic. If i play SDR, it will stay SDR. If i play non-dolby HDR, it will stay non-Dolby HDR. If i play Dolby Vision HDR, the meta data / info will be mapped to Projector compatible HDR. 

I have no issues switching between SDR and HDR on the P2. Not Even without Hdfury Arcana
I dont use HDR-SIM or any other SDR to HDR conversion. Not sure what you mean with switching image modes. 

Switch times between sources are a little bit faster but it is not instant like on a TV. Not even on P2 which has faster switch times than P1 (even without Arcana)

You need an AVR or HDMI Switch to connect 3 sources to HDFury Arcana.

My chain is: playback device(ATV/PS4/Firetv-Stick/FireTV-Cube) > Denon X4440H > Arcana Module > P2


----------



## oneil50

namtech said:


> I have no issues switching between SDR and HDR on the P2. Not Even without Hdfury Arcana
> I dont use HDR-SIM or any other SDR to HDR conversion. Not sure what you mean with switching image modes.
> 
> My chain is: playback device(ATV/PS4/Firetv-Stick/FireTV-Cube) > Denon X4440H > Arcana Module > P2


Thanks for answer, that was not my question. I mean, when HDR content is playing on the P1 with some android box, tone mapping is bad, picture is dark and if we try to change preset mode for example "cinema" to "reference" or "Game" or "HDR sim", nothing happened. Changing these setting did no affect on the final picture.
With my no-android source (BD player), changing this preset works fine and tone mapping is good.
P2 corrected this bug on last firmware but P1 is still bug (last line of the picture). Using HDfury should corrected this ?


----------



## namtech

oneil50 said:


> Thanks for answer, that was not my question. I mean, when HDR content is playing on the P1 with some android box, tone mapping is bad, picture is dark and if we try to change preset mode for example "cinema" to "reference" or "Game" or "HDR sim", nothing happened. Changing these setting did no affect on the final picture.
> With my no-android source (BD player), changing this preset works fine and tone mapping is good.
> P2 corrected this bug on last firmware but P1 is still bug. Using HDfury should corrected this ?


Ah, now i understand you. However i am afraid i dont know if it would. HDFury definitly can fix lots of EDID or HDR related issues however if it would solve this particular issue, iam not sure. i think you need to ask someone who can test it for you. You are from France? amazon.fr also sells hdfury arcana, i would recommend to order one and test - if it doesnt work return it (or enjoy Dolby Vision) .-)


----------



## oneil50

namtech said:


> Ah, now i understand you. However i am afraid i dont know if it would. HDFury definitly can fix lots of EDID or HDR related issues however if it would solve this particular issue, iam not sure. i think you need to ask someone who can test it for you. You are from France? amazon.fr also sells hdfury arcana, i would recommend to order one and test - if it doesnt work return it (or enjoy Dolby Vision) .-)


Any seller in France, amazon is out of stock. I'm really fed up to wait a firmware since september. Optoma are really the
worst update tracking that exists. I should buy for 200e more product to try to fix a bug....


----------



## hockey1980

namtech said:


> Anyway, i cant check for you anymore as i am now on a P2 which behaves very differently (better) in any way.


very interesting...so moving from the UHZ65UST to P2, how do you personally find the overall experience in a light controlled environment (HDR Dimming Issue aside) between the two? is it immediately noticeable jump up in picture quality (blacks/colour vibrancy etc.)


----------



## namtech

hockey1980 said:


> very interesting...so moving from the UHZ65UST to P2, how do you personally find the overall experience in a light controlled environment (HDR Dimming Issue aside) between the two? is it immediately noticeable jump up in picture quality (blacks/colour vibrancy etc.)


check out my post in the P2 thread about some generall stuff between UHZ65UST and P2.








Optoma CinemaX P2 4K Laser UST Projector - Official...


Thanks! I will also be doing a 120” screen. Which center channel are you using? I'm using a Focal CC700v. Attached a picture of how it's sitting on its temporary stand. I don't remember how much I could raise it before it would start getting in the way of the image, but I think it wasn't...




www.avsforum.com





About the light controlled environment, UHZ65UST has higher contrast, P2 has noticable better (nuanced) colors. Vibrancy/punch edge still goes to P1 due to being brighter, however the difference is so small that the P2 has the edge for me due to being much more quiet and stable in operation.


----------



## hockey1980

namtech said:


> check out my post in the P2 thread about some generall stuff between UHZ65UST and P2.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Optoma CinemaX P2 4K Laser UST Projector - Official...
> 
> 
> Thanks! I will also be doing a 120” screen. Which center channel are you using? I'm using a Focal CC700v. Attached a picture of how it's sitting on its temporary stand. I don't remember how much I could raise it before it would start getting in the way of the image, but I think it wasn't...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About the light controlled environment, UHZ65UST has higher contrast, P2 has noticable better (nuanced) colors. Vibrancy/punch edge still goes to P1 due to being brighter, however the difference is so small that the P2 has the edge for me due to being much more quiet and stable in operation.


Thanks for sharing your insights, so helpful in making a decision to upgrade

Difference marginal at best it seems..... think I'll wait for a firmware update (*if Optoma ever release*) or use an AppleTv to get around HDR dimming issue for now

I will see what next gen UST tech manufacturers bring to the table before upgrading... not anything I'm aware of from currently available options that blows away the P1/P2/PRO(UHZ65UST) enough for me to change


----------



## Christian Spiga

Please don't create confusion.

The P2 was created by Optoma to update the first US version of the P1, NOT THE CINEMA X PRO (US) that is the equivalent of the UHZ65UST (EU).

All the european users that have a UHZ65UST have no reasons to pass to P2, the only reasons is to solve the bug that are still present in the UHZ65UST and we hope will be solved with the next firmware.

You really think that the optoma will sell you the P2 more cheaper than the UHZ65UST if was better?


----------



## Roger92

Made a custom cabinet today to fit the optoma


----------



## Roger92




----------



## Mick Seymour

Roger92 said:


> Made a custom cabinet today to fit the optoma


Nice.


----------



## hockey1980

Roger92 said:


> Made a custom cabinet today to fit the optoma


 that looks awesome, really well executed... job well done


----------



## Christian Spiga

Really really nice, i would like to be good enough to do by myself  

By the way....today i will bring my Optoma UHZ65UST to the shop for sending him to support, i live in Germany.

Let's see how long will take and what they really do in the end. Can be useful for other customers.


----------



## Roger92

Final touch with closing of the front top.


----------



## Christian Spiga

Some Update that can be useful.

In the meantime mz UHZ65UST is sended to Optoma for support, i´m using a Changhong B6U, that my dealer was so super nice to give me until my projector come back.

I cannot believe that the street price si € 3.299, like the Optoma.
I hope nobody have never the idea to spend his money on him.

Since I open the box, i had the tipical sensation of cheap plastic, than i start to connect my devices to him.

When you look the back panel, whit the names of the ports printed in a cheap way and the ports that are not perfectly straight.

The only 2 hdmi ports are so near to eachother that if you have a Firestick you cannot connect something else because there is not the space to fit a norma cable in the other hdmi, ahahahha.

Let's talk the image quality.
Sincerly, if you look only super good quality contents in 4K HDR, using the UMAX picture setting, is not so bad, but never good like the Optoma, never.

If you look SDR content you are dead, really not nice with a lot of artifact.

On the Xbox Series X, is acceptable, because as i tell before, 4K content are nice.

Probably with a calibration you can have a better experience, but there is really not so muchb to calibrate.

The Android system is like the Optoma O.S., there are both horrible.

Is also super loud, the fan really is a fixed underground sound that you cancel only with the volume over 50. 

The soundbar.....no, better nothing. 

But in the end, he save my life, i have no other tv at home, and with him i can watch the football, some series, and play some game, waiting that my Optoma come back better than before.

Cheers


----------



## Roger92

At least you have temporary replacement unit ! I had to order a xiaomi to have a projector once I send the optoma to the service center.


----------



## dinesh26uk

Just got the C15.4 update for uhz65ust.. Just optoma connect app crash fixes


----------



## Christian Spiga

dinesh26uk said:


> Just got the C15.4 update for uhz65ust.. Just optoma connect app crash fixes


There is a new update on air?
Sincerly if Optoma Connect crash, will be my last problem.....ahahahah


----------



## hockey1980

dinesh26uk said:


> Just got the C15.4 update for uhz65ust.. Just optoma connect app crash fixes


Just see that too on my mine too..... what an epic let down


----------



## copperfield74

Christian Spiga said:


> There is a new update on air?
> Sincerly if Optoma Connect crash, will be my last problem.....ahahahah


This way they can say that there was already an update and now we can wait another 6-12 months for the next one.


----------



## Roger92

Seems there are two different updates. Just finished one and started the other.....will see


----------



## oneil50

Can you post changelog ?
What about bug ?


----------



## hockey1980

Roger92 said:


> Seems there are two different updates. Just finished one and started the other.....will see


i was prompted to install second update too but with no details of what change was.

However my NVidia Sheild HDR dimming issue looks much better ...... anyone else?


----------



## oneil50

hockey1980 said:


> i was prompted to install second update too but with no details of what change was.
> 
> However my NVidia Sheild HDR dimming issue looks much better ...... anyone else?


With Shield, no HDMI black screen, flickering, snow ?
When you play HDR content, if you Switch image setting (exemple cinéma to natural), image change or nothing ?


----------



## hockey1980

oneil50 said:


> With Shield, no HDMI black screen, flickering, snow ?


Not sure about these , I haven't noticed these issues before. Cant help much more, really need the change log



oneil50 said:


> When you play HDR content, if you Switch image setting (exemple cinéma to natural), image change or nothing ?


Image Settings | Display Mode = 'HDR' remains locked as always (cant go to 'Cinema' etc. its greyed out and unselectable)

However....
Image Settings | 'Dynamic Range | HDR Picture Mode = 'Bright/Standard/Film/Detail' when changed now actually makes a difference which it never did before, some changes have been made in this release


----------



## J Bone

Had an update offer pop up today. Not with the updates I was hoping for or that really matter in my own opinion but good to see it's at least not an entirely abandoned product by Optoma.









Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


----------



## oneil50

hockey1980 said:


> Image Settings | 'Dynamic Range | HDR Picture Mode = 'Bright/Standard/Film/Detail' when changed now actually makes a difference which it never did before, some changes have been made in this release


Ok thanks I think tone mapping problem with Android TV is fixed but don't appear on changelog....
Thanks for answer.
What about game mode problem ?
I will install firmware in 1 week when i Come back home.


----------



## Kev1000000

Gaming mode green tint is gone with this new update as well.


----------



## bbyrneozarch

Just downloaded the update I’m still having issues with Dynamic Black 1 dimming and a green tint in game mode. I only had one download not two, is there a second one that was released?


----------



## oneil50

Then many bug fixed I hope to test it on my own.
What about image flickering and lost HDMI connection (10 bit or 12bit @60hz) ?


----------



## hockey1980

bbyrneozarch said:


> Just downloaded the update I’m still having issues with Dynamic Black 1 dimming and a green tint in game mode. I only had one download not two, is there a second one that was released?


I loaded 2 bits of software, the second time the projector was down for 30 minutes playing classical music until done

I'm now on 

System C15.4
MCU C12.0
DDP C21


----------



## CedFr

hockey1980 said:


> I loaded 2 bits of software, the second time the projector was down for 30 minutes playing classical music until done
> 
> I'm now on
> 
> System C15.4
> MCU C12.0
> DDP C21


On my side, only one update and now i am in
System C15.4
MCU C11.0
DDP C17


----------



## Mick Seymour

CedFr said:


> On my side, only one update and now i am in
> System C15.4
> MCU C11.0
> DDP C17


Mine took an hour to download and install the first part, then when I went to power it off, it did the system update taking 30 minutes. I'm on the same versions as @hockey1980 .


----------



## bbyrneozarch

hockey1980 said:


> I loaded 2 bits of software, the second time the projector was down for 30 minutes playing classical music until done
> 
> I'm now on
> 
> System C15.4
> MCU C12.0
> DDP C21


I just checked again this morning and I’m on C15.4. Maybe it ran the 30 min install after I powered it off overnight. It looks like the green tint in game mode is fixed but my DB1 dimming issue is still there. Anyone else notice improvements?


----------



## oneil50

bbyrneozarch said:


> I just checked again this morning and I’m on C15.4. Maybe it ran the 30 min install after I powered it off overnight. It looks like the green tint in game mode is fixed but my DB1 dimming issue is still there. Anyone else notice improvements?


What about MCU and DDP ?
What are your dimming problem ?


----------



## g4s

I might be alone in liking Pure Motion 1 setting, but occasionally it would flicker. I'd switch input, then back, then it's fine. Haven't seen that problem since the update. We'll see.


----------



## Jan L

bbyrneozarch said:


> I just checked again this morning and I’m on C15.4. Maybe it ran the 30 min install after I powered it off overnight. It looks like the green tint in game mode is fixed but my DB1 dimming issue is still there. Anyone else notice improvements?


What was again the DB dimming issue? Tint Shifts?


----------



## bbyrneozarch

Jan L said:


> What was again the DB dimming issue? Tint Shifts?


The issue I’m seeing is when I toggle between 100% Power and Dynamic Black 1. The image gets significantly brighter and colors are more vibrant. After a couple of seconds the image will revert back to a darker washed out image. During those first few seconds the image appears to be displaying HDR correctly. There are several people on this forum who have mentioned running into this same issue. I don’t know if anyone has confirmed if this is a bug or if it’s supposed to do that. If it’s supposed to do that I wish there was a way to adjust the settings to match what DB 1 is doing in those first few seconds.


----------



## Jan L

bbyrneozarch said:


> The issue I’m seeing is when I toggle between 100% Power and Dynamic Black 1. The image gets significantly brighter and colors are more vibrant. After a couple of seconds the image will revert back to a darker washed out image. During those first few seconds the image appears to be displaying HDR correctly. There are several people on this forum who have mentioned running into this same issue. I don’t know if anyone has confirmed if this is a bug or if it’s supposed to do that. If it’s supposed to do that I wish there was a way to adjust the settings to match what DB 1 is doing in those first few seconds.


Ah. Yes have that mostly as well. Did they even confirm thats a Bug? I guess thats Just Maximum brightness before adjusting to the Image. Does that Happen with White Background as well? Hope im wrong


----------



## Roger92

Image Issue when switching from HDR to other modes still there.
Sometimes only half screen displaying still there
Color banding still there
😡😡😡


----------



## Alcor72

Hi,

I did try to update but something went wrong during the process.
Now the P1 is restarting in recovery mode trying to install update again and again.

Nobody else experinced this?


----------



## hockey1980

No it went smooth for me. HDR behaving much better for me via the Sheild, no dim picture anymore etc. however.....

- getting volume mute through inbuilt sound bar (no matter what volume level you choose) a few times a day, each time requiring a restart.

- volume moves up down itself.

- the power button on the remote and projector go dead requiring the mains plug to be pulled


----------



## oneil50

hockey1980 said:


> - the power button on the remote and projector go dead requiring the mains plug to be pulled


This is a joke ? You have to unplugged to power off ?
Remote control problem ? Have you try with CEC and power amp ?


----------



## smacrae1984

hockey1980 said:


> No it went smooth for me. HDR behaving much better for me via the Sheild, no dim picture anymore etc. however.....
> 
> - getting volume mute through inbuilt sound bar (no matter what volume level you choose) a few times a day, each time requiring a restart.
> 
> - volume moves up down itself.
> 
> - the power button on the remote and projector go dead requiring the mains plug to be pulled


im getting the same volume issues. Oh and the power button on both remote and main unit not responding. Having to unplug the power as well. They fixed some things and introduced more bugs. This is unacceptable at this price point. I really wish I purchased from a bigger company with better software engineers


----------



## smacrae1984

oneil50 said:


> This is a joke ? You have to unplugged to power off ?
> Remote control problem ? Have you try with CEC and power amp ?


CEC with another remote doesn’t work either


----------



## oneil50

smacrae1984 said:


> CEC with another remote doesn’t work either


Oh my god. We need to contact support to fixed this bug too fasssssst !
There is a problem to shut down by unplug many Time ?
Is it possible to shut down in the menu ? Harmony Logitech doesn't works ?
Remote control is bluetooth ? What about a IR remote ?
Is it possible to adjust auto shut down to 5 minutes or less if no signal input ?
Boring bug.


----------



## Roger92

This is my first Optoma and probably the last. Also very disappointed with the black level on this projector. My previous half price xiaomi was handling way better.


----------



## namtech

Roger92 said:


> This is my first Optoma and probably the last. Also very disappointed with the black level on this projector. My previous half price xiaomi was handling way better.


you keep repeating that. i am sure you did your own research before blindly spending 3k+ for a projector. 
I would recommend that you try to get any support at all or hardware service for a Xiaomi Projector if it breaks down, especially if you ordered via Alibaba or something similar. If black levels are more important for you than silent / quiet operation, why dont you sell your P1 and buy another Xiaomi/Fengmi?


----------



## Jan L

How does the Xiaomi compare in black Levels when you decrease the brightness to the Xiaomi Level?


----------



## Christian Spiga

I’m really happy that my Optoma is at Service during this new update. I want to see if they are so brave to send me back with this Power Off problem.
When my dealer will call me that the projector is ready and back from the Service, the first thing is to test in the shop and don’t bring back home if something is still wrong.


----------



## Jan L

Christian Spiga said:


> I’m really happy that my Optoma is at Service during this new update. I want to see if they are so brave to send me back with this Power Off problem.
> When my dealer will call me that the projector is ready and back from the Service, the first thing is to test in the shop and don’t bring back home if something is still wrong.


Not having any shutdown issue.


----------



## Roger92

Jan L said:


> How does the Xiaomi compare in black Levels when you decrease the brightness to the Xiaomi Level?


The xiaomi had better blacks. Was able to reach almost deep blacks by decreasing the brightness.


----------



## Mick Seymour

Jan L said:


> Not having any shutdown issue.


Neither am I.


----------



## Jan L

Roger92 said:


> The xiaomi had better blacks. Was able to reach almost deep blacks by decreasing the brightness.


I had a Xiaomi myself for 2 years and to me (very fond of good Blacks) it made almost no difference when setting the same lumen Output in both. Sure with Optoma on 100%, Xiaomi wins and in general Xiaomi has slightly better native contrast, but with db1 optoma has the advantages on both ends. By the way, Im a Xiaomi Fan, and suggest just keep it. Best value for the price! Just has other drawbacks such as no 24p Support, Fan noise...


----------



## Roger92

The main reason I updated from xiaomi to optoma was the fan noise and to get 4K. Fan noise of optoma is really low. Waiting for the xiaomi 4K 1 S to arrive from China. Will compare both and keep the one I prefer.


----------



## rayhk

Mick Seymour said:


> Neither am I.


I don't have any shut down issue either.


----------



## oneil50

hockey1980 said:


> - getting volume mute through inbuilt sound bar (no matter what volume level you choose) a few times a day, each time requiring a restart.
> 
> - volume moves up down itself.


Volume down, UP and mute appear on screen when move itself ?

Seems to be remote control problem... Have you tried to power off remote for few hours ?



rayhk said:


> I don't have any shut down issue either.


Do you have volume issue ?


----------



## k0lgrim

Having the shutdown issuee too.

Happened once since the update, powered it on and off about three or four times when this happenef the first and only time so far. Had to pull the plug. Menu showing -1 and "error" values during this bug, so obviously software caused.

If this happens more often this could seriously harm the hardware i guess.

Hope they fix this ASAP...

Everything else works smooth tho.


----------



## smacrae1984

When I go into information to see firmware after update all it says is error on all versions in that menu....


----------



## smacrae1984

When the power doesn’t work all firmware “versions” just show as “error” come on...this is brutal


----------



## smacrae1984

Has anyone contacted Optoma about these issues?


----------



## smacrae1984

It’s happened three times now for me. Totally unacceptable. Come on Optoma. This is nuts. Do they even test these before release...


----------



## nikels

Happening here too sporadically. Starts off as a sound issue when starting up with my fire stick. Have to restart the fire stick to get sound. Then the unit won’t power off. That’s a pretty big glitch how could that have passed testing? 

Don’t want to pull the plug so I’ve set the auto shut off to 5 mins which will allow the unit to turn off. Powering on and off from that point works until the next time the issue pops up...

when I did the firmware update it immediately had this issue and after Doing the auto shut off thing thought it was just a quirky firmware update process thing but now I’m seeing others with the same issue. Not good.


----------



## smacrae1984

I’ve contacted Optoma I would advise everyone with the issue to do the same so they fix this ASAP


----------



## eedwards86

I’ve updated latest firmware, now on:

System C15.4
MCU C12.0
DDP C21

Can confirm that HDMI dropouts (potential EDID issues) still exist. HDR looks far better for me. I have not experienced any audio or power issues as of yet although I don’t use the embedded soundbar.

looks like one step forward and one step back.


----------



## jhbball2002

Jan L said:


> What was again the DB dimming issue? Tint Shifts?


I'm noticing the tint shifting pretty heavily. I saw your previous comment about addressing this with some color tuning. Is that still the best method for addressing tint shifts? Any other solution?


----------



## rayhk

oneil50 said:


> Do you have volume issue ?


No. Everything is normal except the EDID for input HDMI3 could not be changed to 2.0


----------



## rayhk

smacrae1984 said:


> When the power doesn’t work all firmware “versions” just show as “error” come on...this is brutal


Have you tried to reset the projector?


----------



## Jan L

jhbball2002 said:


> I'm noticing the tint shifting pretty heavily. I saw your previous comment about addressing this with some color tuning. Is that still the best method for addressing tint shifts? Any other solution?


No other solution found, but actually not looking for one. Rarely noticeable. Have you tried it?


----------



## jhbball2002

Jan L said:


> No other solution found, but actually not looking for one. Rarely noticeable. Have you tried it?


On the to do list for tomorrow - I'll report back. Thanks.


----------



## yknottavs

mbarac said:


> *update*
> 
> After driver update 14.3 shutdown, I have white light blinking on every 26 seconds from 10 hours now ... nothing happened


I have the exact same problem after the FW update to IIRC 15.3, which I got an OTA notification yesterday. The FW update succeeded, when I attempted a shutdown afterwards the "driver update" notification came up. The screen went black but no music started playing and the system never came back. Now I only see the white LED blink every 30s and occasionally the fan starts spinning for half a sec. Otherwise the unit is dead 
@mbarac or anyone else, anyone got an idea how to resolve this?


----------



## smacrae1984

rayhk said:


> Have you tried to reset the projector?


Yes. Didn’t change anything. Still have the power issues.


----------



## Jan L

smacrae1984 said:


> Yes. Didn’t change anything. Still have the power issues.


I dont have the issue, but what happens If you either reconnect the remote via Bluetooth or use it without BT?


----------



## smacrae1984

The power button on the unit is also unresponsive. It’s not just related to the remote. It’s a big software bug


----------



## oneil50

smacrae1984 said:


> The power button on the unit is also unresponsive. It’s not just related to the remote. It’s a big software bug


The only way to shut down projector is auto shuttdown when no signal after 5 minutes ?
Do you have call Optoma ?


----------



## smacrae1984

oneil50 said:


> The only way to shut down projector is auto shuttdown when no signal after 5 minutes ?
> Do you have call Optoma ?


As others have said. Pulling the power or waiting for auto shutdown. I emailed optoma but I never hear back from them anyhow


----------



## Jan L

smacrae1984 said:


> The power button on the unit is also unresponsive. It’s not just related to the remote. It’s a big software bug


And that when we thought it cant get any worse.


----------



## smacrae1984

Jan L said:


> And that when we thought it cant get any worse.


I just hope they patch this ASAP


----------



## CedFr

I do not have this issue since i have made the update. i control the optoma with the shield 2019 remote and ON OFF is working well. I tried also with the optoma remote. I am in ECO mode. Is the mode could have an impact ? I did not try by using the SMART HOME mode ...


----------



## smacrae1984

CedFr said:


> I do not have this issue since i have made the update. i control the optoma with the shield 2019 remote and ON OFF is working well. I tried also with the optoma remote. I am in ECO mode. Is the mode could have an impact ? I did not try by using the SMART HOME mode ...
> View attachment 3086231


Yes tried both modes. Currently in eco mode and it’s still happening


----------



## smacrae1984

Does HDMI 3 now only show as 1.4 for everyone??


----------



## calvinwalfred

I updated my projector. Now I get a picture on only have of the screen when I change the picture settings. I had not seen that issue in months. Now I have seen it several times in less than an hour after the update.


----------



## rayhk

smacrae1984 said:


> Does HDMI 3 now only show as 1.4 for everyone??


Yes. It could not be set to 2.0 after the update. 
The Customer Service Team of Optima told me that it is not a bug. I have asked them to check the reason of this change.


----------



## Mick Seymour

smacrae1984 said:


> Does HDMI 3 now only show as 1.4 for everyone??





rayhk said:


> Yes. It could not be set to 2.0 after the update.
> The Customer Service Team of Optima told me that it is not a bug. I have asked them to check the reason of this change.


Mine is greyed out and shows 1.4.

Checking the spec in the user manual, it shows HDMI V2.0 x 3 so I don't know how they can say it is not a bug.


----------



## smacrae1984

Mick Seymour said:


> Mine is greyed out and shows 1.4.
> 
> Checking the spec in the user manual, it shows HDMI V2.0 x 3 so I don't know how they can say it is not a bug.


They seemed to really mess this release up. They need better software engineers. Not buying optoma again


----------



## rayhk

Mick Seymour said:


> Mine is greyed out and shows 1.4.
> 
> Checking the spec in the user manual, it shows HDMI V2.0 x 3 so I don't know how they can say it is not a bug.


The CS team of Optoma told me that it was their intention to change HDMI3 to 1.4 only. It seems that this firmware update was developed based on the firmware used for P2 (HDMI3 of P2 is for 1.4 only). I told the Optoma team that they should give us a clear explanation about this change since we are losing one input port for 4k.


----------



## Mick Seymour

rayhk said:


> The CS team of Optoma told me that it was their intention to change HDMI3 to 1.4 only. It seems that this firmware update was developed based on the firmware used for P2 (HDMI3 of P2 is for 1.4 only).


Sounds like BS to me.


----------



## smacrae1984

Mick Seymour said:


> Sounds like BS to me.


Yup. Sounds like they just tried to squeeze the P2 firmware in there as to all the bugs...


----------



## jhbball2002

Honestly, Optoma is a horrible company - I'll never be purchasing an Optoma product ever again. Anyone thinking about picking up a p1 or p2 should steer clear. They misrepresented the specs of the P1 (as well as other projects like the UHD50x) heavily, and provided 'fixes' that didn't meet the requirements of the original data sheet when I purchased it. Took them 6 months to release a firmware update for a 3000+ projector as well, and it apparently broke several other things in the process.

It'd be difficult to organize, but there's probably grounds for a class action suit here. I'll be continuing to push for a P2 as a replacement for my p1. 

But yeah, if you're still in the return period for your projector, just return it.


----------



## Guillaume Le Mener

jhbball2002 said:


> Honestly, Optoma is a horrible company - I'll never be purchasing an Optoma product ever again. Anyone thinking about picking up a p1 or p2 should steer clear. They misrepresented the specs of the P1 (as well as other projects like the UHD50x) heavily, and provided 'fixes' that didn't meet the requirements of the original data sheet when I purchased it. Took them 6 months to release a firmware update for a 3000+ projector as well, and it apparently broke several other things in the process.
> 
> It'd be difficult to organize, but there's probably grounds for a class action suit here. I'll be continuing to push for a P2 as a replacement for my p1.
> 
> But yeah, if you're still in the return period for your projector, just return it.


I tend to agree with you. My P1 is now subject to RMA since the latest firmware broke the unit that cannot restart. I wonder what to replace the P1 with in terms of UST unit. Recommendations?


----------



## Kdub69

I have been waiting for this update but now scared to update with all the issues being report. Definitely scared about the split screen issue and the power issue. Should I be waiting for a fix before attempting this update? Also whats the chance we can keep pushing on getting our unit replaced with the optoma p2? This class action seems like a good way to get them to open their eyes. Especially with the false advertising with the input lag and all the issues they have. I bought the optoma because I thought they would have good support but boy was I wrong on this one.


----------



## Kdub69

calvinwalfred said:


> I updated my projector. Now I get a picture on only have of the screen when I change the picture settings. I had not seen that issue in months. Now I have seen it several times in less than an hour after the update.


this is what i’m scared about I might wait to update?


----------



## smacrae1984

I’m all for a class action. This projector was too expensive to have these issues


----------



## nikels

Kdub69 said:


> this is what i’m scared about I might wait to update?


Don’t know if it’s happened to a large number of people or just a few but I would hold off until optoma provides an answer to those who’ve been affected.

just happened again for me. On start up the sound doesn’t immediately put out. There’s a delay before the built in speakers start working so you know that’s not normal. I’m able to use my fire stick but then when I try turning things off it won’t power off and I see all the error values.

I’m now waiting for the unit to auto shut off after 5 mins. It’s gone into screensaver mode but won’t seem to shut off by itself now. Really don’t want to pull the plug..

will be contacting optoma tomorrow.


----------



## smacrae1984

nikels said:


> Don’t know if it’s happened to a large number of people or just a few but I would hold off until optoma provides an answer to those who’ve been affected.
> 
> just happened again for me. On start up the sound doesn’t immediately put out. There’s a delay before the built in speakers start working so you know that’s not normal. I’m able to use my fire stick but then when I try turning things off it won’t power off and I see all the error values.
> 
> I’m now waiting for the unit to auto shut off after 5 mins. It’s gone into screensaver mode but won’t seem to shut off by itself now. Really don’t want to pull the plug..
> 
> will be contacting optoma tomorrow.


Please do contact them. The more that do the more seriously they will look into these issues.


----------



## jhbball2002

Jan L said:


> Regarding Bug 8:
> During my many tries to calibrate with dynamic black turned on, i can recommend lowering Red Offset to -3 and Green offset to -2... depending on your whites, Same for blue. It was clearly visible that the darker the Image gets the Red tint increased and in Maximum brightness, Green tint. Blacks also seem to improve.
> 
> My Main issue is still color Banding in YouTube and Low quality streams. Cant get rid of it except for drastically decresing brightness and or contrast. Thats my Second unit already, Same issue.
> 
> Could someone Checkout Hotline Bling from Drake in YouTube to Check If the colors are Display correct? Thanks


I'm attempting to test your fix for bug 8, could you confirm the values and specific settings you're using? Is this -2 Green Bias, Red Bias to -3, and Blue Bias to -3? Or are you talking about the gain settings? 

Thanks.


----------



## Jan L

jhbball2002 said:


> I'm attempting to test your fix for bug 8, could you confirm the values and specific settings you're using? Is this -2 Green Bias, Red Bias to -3, and Blue Bias to -3? Or are you talking about the gain settings?
> 
> Thanks.


It depends on the unit, mode and settings. I will check later today. Keep in mind that has nothing to do with calibration and just helps with the issue. (Hopefully in your Case too). Basically, you need to find a setting for rgb that has the least differences in color output when using db. With db1, too much Red in darker scenes and too much Green in Maximum brightness. Blue...Always but steady. (Measured it back then) 
Just Go to a bright scene with an obvious Green tint and reduce Green via gain or ref to get the Image you Like. Jump between 95/100 % to See the Variation. Go to a black/dark Scene and reduce Red ref/Green/ blue in that order and check If the black background is getting better blacks and loosing red or other colored tints. Dont forget to check the bright Part again...

for daylight Viewing...hdr Sim, contrast 10-12, brightness -10, brilliant colors full, colors Default, db1


----------



## yknottavs

Guillaume Le Mener said:


> My P1 is now subject to RMA since the latest firmware broke the unit that cannot restart.


Did your unit break too during the "driver update" too? Mine did and now it doesn't power up anymore. I've contacted Optoma and they told me to RMA it.
Firmware update on the P1 seems to be unsafe given that you can brick your device w/o the ability to recover it yourself.


----------



## Christian Spiga

It's really "Funny" all this situation. Last time i was talking bad about Optoma someone tell me that was only my impression and i cannot talk for the others. 
But i can see that there are a lot of people that now start to understand how much is really "born already broken" the P1 / UHZ65UST.

Right know the only thing that can really make me happy is to have my money back, i will never accept a P2, just because the P2 is defenitely not better or equal my UHZ65UST.

I'm not a loyal, but for sure i'm the first that will sign a petition or class action or everything that can give back to Optoma a little bit of all the **** that they send us.


----------



## Kdub69

yknottavs said:


> Did your unit break too during the "driver update" too? Mine did and now it doesn't power up anymore. I've contacted Optoma and they told me to RMA it.
> Firmware update on the P1 seems to be unsafe given that you can brick your device w/o the ability to recover it yourself.


Did that happen to you this update?


----------



## yknottavs

Kdub69 said:


> Did that happen to you this update?


Yes, the C15.4 update 2 days ago.


----------



## dinesh26uk

Do feel bad about all the bugs but luckily had no issues so far


----------



## Christian Spiga

Yes, but in the end, can someone tell me what this last firmware fix of the problems of the previous version, or we have only new bugs?


----------



## cincylion

The only problem I'm seeing is the third HDMI port set to 1.4. That's BS. The spec sheet says "
1x HDMI 2.0 (HDCP 2.2), 1x HDMI 2.0 (HDCP 2.2, HDMI-
ARC), 1x HDMI 2.0 (HDCP 2.2, side)


----------



## CedFr

I am very lucky because i have made this update and everything is working fine. Only the HDMI 3 set to 1.4.
Hope they will fix it asap for most of you. (I have the UHZ65UST bought in december 2020)


----------



## Kdub69

CedFr said:


> I am very lucky because i have made this update and everything is working fine. Only the HDMI 3 set to 1.4.
> Hope they will fix it asap for most of you. (I have the UHZ65UST bought in december 2020)


I find this absolutely crazy that we have to play Russian roulette every-time there is an update. This is just mind boggling! Especially from a company like optoma!! Has anyone gotten a word is these bugs will be fixed so it won’t brick other p1’s?


----------



## Jan L

Christian Spiga said:


> Yes, but in the end, can someone tell me what this last firmware fix of the problems of the previous version, or we have only new bugs?


Thats a good Question. Change Log was short and useless. Someone said the Update was based in the p2 Update? Maybe we should have a Look in their changelog.


----------



## oneil50

Jan L said:


> Thats a good Question. Change Log was short and useless. Someone said the Update was based in the p2 Update? Maybe we should have a Look in their changelog.


Gaming mode is fixed. Can anyone confirm ?
Tone mapping with Android box is fixed.


----------



## rayhk

For me, C15.4 is good and stable although still seeing colour banding issue. The PQ looks good to me! Of course, I am no expert.


----------



## g4s

For me it fixed the Pure Motion flicker I would regularly have. Haven't noticed anything else. My P1 is from the first batch, early Oct. 2019.


----------



## CedFr

Do you think Optoma will be ok to refund if the UST has no more than 2 months ? Do you have a contact email to join Optoma customer service ?


----------



## oneil50

CedFr said:


> Do you think Optoma will be ok to refund if the UST has no more than 2 months ? Do you have a contact email to join Optoma customer service ?


Why ? You just said you have non problem.


----------



## CedFr

It is just in case. All the problem encountered by many user make me think and doubt.


----------



## Kdub69

g4s said:


> For me it fixed the Pure Motion flicker I would regularly have. Haven't noticed anything else. My P1 is from the first batch, early Oct. 2019.


I have the first batch also how long is their warranty good for? Debating on if I should update to new firmware.


----------



## Mick Seymour

CedFr said:


> Do you think Optoma will be ok to refund if the UST has no more than 2 months ? Do you have a contact email to join Optoma customer service ?


I don't know about a refund. In the EU you are normally given 14 days (I think) to return an internet purchase for any reason, or no reason at all.

To contact support, go onto their web site. Under Service & support is a Contact us link. You will need your PJ serial number.


----------



## legnaz

I just went to wipe the glass where the laser is and noticed that the inner part of the glass looks dirty...almost like water stains. I always use a dry cloth to clean it. Anyone else have this issue? Is it easy to remove the glass and clean it?


----------



## legnaz

Christian Spiga said:


> It's really "Funny" all this situation. Last time i was talking bad about Optoma someone tell me that was only my impression and i cannot talk for the others.
> But i can see that there are a lot of people that now start to understand how much is really "born already broken" the P1 / UHZ65UST.
> 
> Right know the only thing that can really make me happy is to have my money back, i will never accept a P2, just because the P2 is defenitely not better or equal my UHZ65UST.
> 
> I'm not a loyal, but for sure i'm the first that will sign a petition or class action or everything that can give back to Optoma a little bit of all the **** that they send us.



I thought the P2 was better than the P1. That's what warranty offered me, but I haven't accepted. I have the focus issue on my P1.


----------



## g4s

Kdub69 said:


> I have the first batch also how long is their warranty good for? Debating on if I should update to new firmware.


Pretty sure it's two years.


----------



## Kdub69

It looks like they took the update down as I am on version 14.3 and it says my system device has the latest system updates. Does this mean they know that they have major issues with this update? Currently have a optoma p1 in canada. I’m from the original batch. Can anyone confirm this as well?


----------



## Christian Spiga

They took the update down? Wow, what a move.


legnaz said:


> I thought the P2 was better than the P1. That's what warranty offered me, but I haven't accepted. I have the focus issue on my P1.


The P2 is better than the P1 (US version), but the P2 is not better than the UHZ65UST (EU version of the P1 Cinema X Pro).

In EU they never sell the original P1, but directly the Pro version.

This is why there is a lot of confusion.


----------



## Roger92

Received the xiaomi 4K 1S today. Tested it for 20 minutes. Great picture but way to much noisy. Cannot keep it because of this. Will resell and keep the P1.


----------



## CedFr

Roger92 said:


> Received the xiaomi 4K 1S today. Tested it for 20 minutes. Great picture but way to much noisy. Cannot keep it because of this. Will resell and keep the P1.


Picture compared to P1, do you see big improvement ?


----------



## Monkd

Roger92 said:


> Received the xiaomi 4K 1S today. Tested it for 20 minutes. Great picture but way to much noisy. Cannot keep it because of this. Will resell and keep the P1.


This was the biggest drawback for me to get any cheaper chinese products. I am sure picture quality can be good and very comparable, even better in some aspects, however, there always seem to be noise issues. Some of them have a lot of coil whine which is a nono.


----------



## fischkai

Anyone can confirm that the 15.4 firmware version is not available anymore? Last time I checked 14.3 was the latest version. I am in germany.


----------



## smacrae1984

As far as I know 15.4 is still available in Canada. Can anyone confirm?


----------



## Bill97Z

Have you tried the VAVA?



Monkd said:


> This was the biggest drawback for me to get any cheaper chinese products. I am sure picture quality can be good and very comparable, even better in some aspects, however, there always seem to be noise issues. Some of them have a lot of coil whine which is a nono.


----------



## Bill97Z

Have you tried the VAVA?



Roger92 said:


> Received the xiaomi 4K 1S today. Tested it for 20 minutes. Great picture but way to much noisy. Cannot keep it because of this. Will resell and keep the P1.


----------



## Kdub69

smacrae1984 said:


> As far as I know 15.4 is still available in Canada. Can anyone confirm?


In canada not available for me


----------



## smacrae1984

Kdub69 said:


> In canada not available for me


Interesting. So they obviously know there is an issue and are hopefully working on a new version


----------



## jhbball2002

Christian Spiga said:


> It's really "Funny" all this situation. Last time i was talking bad about Optoma someone tell me that was only my impression and i cannot talk for the others.
> But i can see that there are a lot of people that now start to understand how much is really "born already broken" the P1 / UHZ65UST.
> 
> Right know the only thing that can really make me happy is to have my money back, i will never accept a P2, just because the P2 is defenitely not better or equal my UHZ65UST.
> 
> I'm not a loyal, but for sure i'm the first that will sign a petition or class action or everything that can give back to Optoma a little bit of all the **** that they send us.


Just to clarify, you're being offered a P2 as a replacement? Interesting, support told me they won't replace the p1 with a p2.


----------



## oneil50

Just back to home, my uhz65 UST from France is not available to the new update. Optoma canceled it ?


----------



## smacrae1984

oneil50 said:


> Just back to home, my uhz65 UST from France is not available to the new update. Optoma canceled it ?


They pulled the update. Hopefully that means they are releasing a new one soon


----------



## Christian Spiga

jhbball2002 said:


> Just to clarify, you're being offered a P2 as a replacement? Interesting, support told me they won't replace the p1 with a p2.


The user "Legnaz" wrote some posts before that the warranty offered him a P2 instead the P1 but he don't accepted.


----------



## Roger92

If I could change to a P2 I would accept 👍😂


----------



## smacrae1984

Roger92 said:


> If I could change to a P2 I would accept 👍😂


Same.


----------



## k0lgrim

Good to hear they pulled the update.

I only had the shutdown-not-possible error once since the firmware update, i've been using the beamer about 5 or 6 times (which means powering on, wachting something and powering off) since then. Apart from this reaaaaally nasty bug i had no issues at all with the update.
Funnily, yesterday the settings-menu displayed the "error" messages that come along with the shutdown not reacting immediately after booting up the beamer. But the shutdown-button reacted this time and after a restart all was working fine again.

I'm pretty sure they tried to squeeze the P2 firmware in here in a real sloppy way.
I'd be sceptical if a new firmware version is released in the next one or two weeks - they should be rewriting and testing this mess carefully and take their time.

I have another year of warranty left on my UHZ65, if things get worse i'll try to return it at the end of the year. Optoma definitely damaged their reputation with this one for me, even if i'm happy with the experience when the thing is working. 

But i expect a 3000 dollar/euro machine to be working much more smoothly.


----------



## Mick Seymour

Shutdown problem.


Mick Seymour said:


> Neither am I.


I spoke too soon. The other day both the remote power and top button power brought up the shutdown box but a second tap just went back to what I was watching. Tried this a few times. Eventually, I pressed Home on the remote. Once the home screen displayed, shutdown worked again.

I logged it with support along with an unmute problem I've had from before C15.4 and they've asked for a video . It is intermittent for me so not sure how I'm going to get that without constantly booting/shutting down/booting the PJ until it happens, something we all know is not a good idea.


----------



## smacrae1984

Mick Seymour said:


> Shutdown problem.
> 
> I spoke too soon. The other day both the remote power and top button power brought up the shutdown box but a second tap just went back to what I was watching. Tried this a few times. Eventually, I pressed Home on the remote. Once the home screen displayed, shutdown worked again.
> 
> I logged it with support along with an unmute problem I've had from before C15.4 and they've asked for a video . It is intermittent for me so not sure how I'm going to get that without constantly booting/shutting down/booting the PJ until it happens, something we all know is not a good idea.


A video? Maybe ask them why they pulled the update...they obviously know something is wrong with it.


----------



## nikels

Hopefully they provide a new update fix shortly. 

Totally unscientific but I tried turning off my fire stick Cec control so that the fire stick couldn’t turn the projector on and vice versa and I haven’t had an issue since. I’ve been basically turning on the projector first and checking that the settings are without error and then I’ll wake the fire stick. All my other peripherals are unplugged except for the fire stick on HDMI 1. It’s been stable since last week after doing this. 

As a quick test I tried plugging my ps4 into HDMI 2 turned on the projector and got the error message right away. 

Suffice to say my projector is pretty barebones right now so hopefully they release a fix soon.


----------



## zekonavsforum

Hi all, I didn't connect here in 2 weeks.... and just seen about this C15.4 update. As my projector isn't connected to the network, it's a surprise and I was very excited .. then I saw the description, ... and all associated problems for some of you 

I didn't tried to make this update.

The Optoma team (that contact me after the petition) didn't communicate about this update, so it's weird. Last time I had news was on 19/01/2021. So I asked them tonight for an explanation.

We are now 110 owners in the petition ( Sign the Petition ) : if no answers in a few days, I will update it with these bad news and problems.

I'm beginning to loose trust


----------



## smacrae1984

zekonavsforum said:


> Hi all, I didn't connect here in 2 weeks.... and just seen about this C15.4 update. As my projector isn't connected to the network, it's a surprise and I was very excited .. then I saw the description, ... and all associated problems for some of you
> 
> I didn't tried to make this update.
> 
> The Optoma team (that contact me after the petition) didn't communicate about this update, so it's weird. Last time I had news was on 19/01/2021. So I asked them tonight for an explanation.
> 
> We are now 110 owners in the petition ( Sign the Petition ) : if no answers in a few days, I will update it with these bad news and problems.
> 
> I'm beginning to loose trust


Thank you. Hopefully they share some information with you as to why they pulled the update and when a new one will be available.


----------



## smacrae1984

I’ve lost faith in them. They need to read this forum. They just told me to send it in for repair and pointed me to the update via Dropbox (15.4) I asked them why it was pulled but they didn’t answer. Not buying Optoma again.


----------



## smacrae1984

I'm now looking at the Hisense L5. At least it will have solid OS.


----------



## smacrae1984

This is all I get from them:

The update is not available on our OTA server, this is why we are providing a manual update in the mean time, We would recommend getting the unit in for a repair tech to take a look at the projector. Follow this link to start a warranty claim to assist you with your projector. RMA procedure - Optoma USA . There is no other info I can provide in regards to your case, we will be closing out this case.


----------



## legnaz

Christian Spiga said:


> The user "Legnaz" wrote some posts before that the warranty offered him a P2 instead the P1 but he don't accepted.


I accepted the p2. When I called and emailed support I was very angry. At the beginning I was nice, but that got me no where. Been in contact with them for over 5 months regarding multiple issues on my unit and the first replacement. When you call or email, just be mad. Playing nice doesn't work with most companies....they take advantage of you.


----------



## smacrae1984

I'm swapping mine for a Hisense 100L5F. I'll report my findings once I get it


----------



## smacrae1984

zekonavsforum said:


> Hi all, I didn't connect here in 2 weeks.... and just seen about this C15.4 update. As my projector isn't connected to the network, it's a surprise and I was very excited .. then I saw the description, ... and all associated problems for some of you
> 
> I didn't tried to make this update.
> 
> The Optoma team (that contact me after the petition) didn't communicate about this update, so it's weird. Last time I had news was on 19/01/2021. So I asked them tonight for an explanation.
> 
> We are now 110 owners in the petition ( Sign the Petition ) : if no answers in a few days, I will update it with these bad news and problems.
> 
> I'm beginning to loose trust


Any updates?


----------



## smacrae1984

nikels said:


> Hopefully they provide a new update fix shortly.
> 
> Totally unscientific but I tried turning off my fire stick Cec control so that the fire stick couldn’t turn the projector on and vice versa and I haven’t had an issue since. I’ve been basically turning on the projector first and checking that the settings are without error and then I’ll wake the fire stick. All my other peripherals are unplugged except for the fire stick on HDMI 1. It’s been stable since last week after doing this.
> 
> As a quick test I tried plugging my ps4 into HDMI 2 turned on the projector and got the error message right away.
> 
> Suffice to say my projector is pretty barebones right now so hopefully they release a fix soon.


I turned off all cec as well and it looks like that fixed it. So something with their handshake or authentication of HDMI is messed up with this firmware. I just wish they would acknowledge it instead of just assuming it’s hardware and asking people to send in their units for repair. It’s clearly software based.


----------



## smacrae1984

I take that back. Even with cec all off I still got the errors and the internal speaker was not working until I pulled the power and rebooted. Brutal


----------



## nikels

smacrae1984 said:


> I take that back. Even with cec all off I still got the errors and the internal speaker was not working until I pulled the power and rebooted. Brutal


did you try turning on projector first making sure that your peripherals did not get turned on at all and then after the projector is on then power up your peripheral?

I’ve been strictly following this start up procedure and haven’t had a single issue.

i know it’s not ideal but it’s at least allowing me to use my projector until optoma figures this out.

I haven’t had a chance to reach out to optoma yet but has anyone tried asking them if we could roll back to the previous firmware version?


----------



## smacrae1984

nikels said:


> did you try turning on projector first making sure that your peripherals did not get turned on at all and then after the projector is on then power up your peripheral?
> 
> I’ve been strictly following this start up procedure and haven’t had a single issue.
> 
> i know it’s not ideal but it’s at least allowing me to use my projector until optoma figures this out.
> 
> I haven’t had a chance to reach out to optoma yet but has anyone tried asking them if we could roll back to the previous firmware version?


Please reach out to them. They are clueless about these issues.

far as rolling back this is the response I got:

There is no way to downgrade for customers. My lead advised me to recommend getting the unit in for a repair tech to take a look at the projector. Follow this link to start a warranty claim to assist you with your projector. RMA procedure - Optoma USA.


----------



## smacrae1984

smacrae1984 said:


> Please reach out to them. They are clueless about these issues.
> 
> far as rolling back this is the response I got:
> 
> There is no way to downgrade for customers. My lead advised me to recommend getting the unit in for a repair tech to take a look at the projector. Follow this link to start a warranty claim to assist you with your projector. RMA procedure - Optoma USA.


Everyone needs to contact them or nothing is ever going to happen. They are completely clueless. This is my last response from them:


Do you want our techs to get your projector in working condition? This is the last options we have since your projector is still under warranty. If you don't want to send it in to us, we understand and will be closing this case.
Regards,
Optoma Support Team


----------



## Kdub69

smacrae1984 said:


> Everyone needs to contact them or nothing is ever going to happen. They are completely clueless. This is my last response from them:
> 
> 
> Do you want our techs to get your projector in working condition? This is the last options we have since your projector is still under warranty. If you don't want to send it in to us, we understand and will be closing this case.
> Regards,
> Optoma Support Team


Thats brutal! What ever happened to @optomadude ? I thought we had a few optoma reps in here? Now that things have gotten back they all disappear???


----------



## smacrae1984

Kdub69 said:


> Thats brutal! What ever happened to @optomadude ? I thought we had a few optoma reps in here? Now that things have gotten back they all disappear???


Ya Optoma dude was full of it just like all their support team. Telling people to send in their projectors for their bad firmware is not a solution.


----------



## smacrae1984

I was on the fence about returning it and getting the Hisense L5 but after that email I’ve made my mind up now...


----------



## zekonavsforum

Hi all, 

I had 2 answers from Optoma on 9/2 :

- One from the french commercial team : " _yes a new firmware was delivered a few days, it has been created to fix connexion problems with application "Optoma Connect". It does not correct bugs you have send us. We are still working on further problems you encounter, we will contact you back as soon as possible on this point _" .

- One the UK tech team : " _The Optoma connect application runs across numerous platforms worldwide not just the UHZ65UST. This was the reason for this being advanced out to worldwide territories. Issue with version 15.4 have been recorded and shared with HQ for urgent attention. RMA are being raised in our territories for the reported update. The 15.4 revision was pulled rapidly as soon as the issue was seen. Unfortunately there are users out there who updated devices which the software team are looking to find a solution for._ "

I've told them since december to come to this thread on this forum, to follow communication with owners like OptomaDude used to do, but nothing yet.

Petition has now* 116 owners signatures *( Sign the Petition ) , it's a *BIG SIGNAL* for them, I remind them the counter each time I communicate with them to ask news (each 2~3 weeks). I really don't know why they don't react quickly.


----------



## Roger92

Today half screen display missing. I had to reboot twice to get the full screen back 😡


----------



## smacrae1984

I returned my P1. Hope all of you get the fixes you need.


----------



## Christian Spiga

zekonavsforum said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I had 2 answers from Optoma on 9/2 :
> 
> - One from the french commercial team : " _yes a new firmware was delivered a few days, it has been created to fix connexion problems with application "Optoma Connect". It does not correct bugs you have send us. We are still working on further problems you encounter, we will contact you back as soon as possible on this point _" .
> 
> - One the UK tech team : " _The Optoma connect application runs across numerous platforms worldwide not just the UHZ65UST. This was the reason for this being advanced out to worldwide territories. Issue with version 15.4 have been recorded and shared with HQ for urgent attention. RMA are being raised in our territories for the reported update. The 15.4 revision was pulled rapidly as soon as the issue was seen. Unfortunately there are users out there who updated devices which the software team are looking to find a solution for._ "
> 
> I've told them since december to come to this thread on this forum, to follow communication with owners like OptomaDude used to do, but nothing yet.
> 
> Petition has now* 116 owners signatures *( Sign the Petition ) , it's a *BIG SIGNAL* for them, I remind them the counter each time I communicate with them to ask news (each 2~3 weeks). I really don't know why they don't react quickly.


So, Officially the firmware update was only to fix Optoma Connect? 
Ahahahah i really don't know what they are thinking about.

Mine now is near to be 3 weeks at the Support, i had no news, no updates, probably they are fighting because they cannot turn off, ahahahha.

Thanks to my dealer i had a replacement during the support otherwise i was already freaking out.


----------



## oneil50

zekonavsforum said:


> I've told them since december to come to this thread on this forum, to follow communication with owners like OptomaDude used to do, but nothing yet.
> 
> Petition has now* 116 owners signatures *( Sign the Petition ) , it's a *BIG SIGNAL* for them, I remind them the counter each time I communicate with them to ask news (each 2~3 weeks). I really don't know why they don't react quickly.


Good morning all,
Still no update to fix these issues. 
So I propose to warn Optoma by zekonavsforum contact. If nothing is done before a specific date, we will all proceed to a "truth operation". This consists for each of us, to add a rate on all online shopping store selling this model to denounce the problems that we encounter by reporting all the bugs of the product. The goal is to prevent potential buyers but also to put "pressure" on Optoma.
The second part after the date should be a massive Optoma RMA ticket for all of us the same week.
What are you thinking about these ideas ?


----------



## zekonavsforum

oneil50 said:


> Good morning all,
> Still no update to fix these issues.
> So I propose to warn Optoma by zekonavsforum contact. If nothing is done before a specific date, we will all proceed to a "truth operation". This consists for each of us, to add a rate on all online shopping store selling this model to denounce the problems that we encounter by reporting all the bugs of the product. The goal is to prevent potential buyers but also to put "pressure" on Optoma.
> The second part after the date should be a massive Optoma RMA ticket for all of us the same week.
> What are you thinking about these ideas ?


Hi, 

We can also warn some known reviewers websites about problems
Last time to make Optoma react, I answer to their official tweets with the link of the petition
I'm in holidays soon, so if no news from Optoma by the end of february, i'm in.


----------



## Christian Spiga

I'm thinking to do a video that talk about all this mess, and maybe we can try to share as much as possible. 
Right now Youtube can be really powerful for situations like this.


----------



## g4s

I wonder what the percentage of P1's that got screwed up is compared to the one's that weren't. In my case the firmware fixed the Pure Motion function that was glitchy for me from day one. Not sure if that was an intended fix or just incidental. Other than that, I haven't noticed any changes. Maybe because I don't use CEC?


----------



## Roger92

When you are on a 4K HDR program do you notice blacks being much lighter and more like light grey than dark grey compared to SD ?


----------



## oneil50

Roger92 said:


> When you are on a 4K HDR program do you notice blacks being much lighter and more like light grey than dark grey compared to SD ?


What are your device ? If computer or Xbox/PS, try différent settings on HDMI. (low/large range) or switch RVB to YCBCR.


----------



## Roger92

oneil50 said:


> What are your device ? If computer or Xbox/PS, try différent settings on HDMI. (low/large range) or switch RVB to YCBCR.


Apple TV 4K


----------



## Kdub69

Christian Spiga said:


> I'm thinking to do a video that talk about all this mess, and maybe we can try to share as much as possible.
> Right now Youtube can be really powerful for situations like this.


That would be awesome we should share that on their twitter/facebook pages


----------



## Christian Spiga

My dealer call me. My UHZ65UST is back from the support, after exactly 3 weeks.

What they do:
They fix the color wheel (To solve the color bending)
They clean the Engine Mirror (Probably to solve the effect of the "pixellation")

About the problem that you cannot focus at the same time the right and the left corner, they said "Focus is in the specs".

And about the firmware problems.............................suspance...................rumble..............................double rumble..........................."Firmware update should come in spring".

Tomorrow i go to bring from my dealer and than i will test, and i tell to everyone which firmware is installed, and what they really did.

Cheers


----------



## copperfield74

Hi guys, a few days ago I commented on Optomas EMEA FB when they were advertising the P2 (FB Link) and told them publicly that I'll never buy another device from them because of the P1 problems. Here is what the answered me after I told them that they should check this forum:
"Hi Chester, We really appreciate you taking the time to share and explain this. We will be on the forum in the next couple of days to help rectify the issues. Could I ask if you are currently in touch with our service team in regards to your projector?"

Maybe they can offer some help.


----------



## OPTOMA Official

Hi Everyone,

Thank you for taking the time to bring these issues to our attention.

At Optoma, we strive to put customer needs and user experience at the centre of everything we do and believe these are the reasons we have managed to build a strong customer base who return to our products time after time.

It is clear from the feedback over the past few months that we have fallen short of meeting these expectations and we sincerely apologise for this.

As a result, we have listened and have taken action by starting to restructure our support operations.

In addition, we will now be active on this forum and will be available for any issues that may arise going forward, as well as keeping you regularly updated on bug fixes for the P1. These fixes will come in parts and we will keep you updated on release dates.

We find that with fixes it is important that the projector does not turn off halfway through the update process. The update will happen automatically as long as the function has not been disabled within the menu system. We will also make fixes available on our website for you to download to a USB and use within the service slot.

Where we currently are with P1 fixes:

First bug fixes to come:

Improve media app functionality
Auto reconnecting the Bluetooth Remote Control when remote Bluetooth speaker is disconnected
Internal speaker muted when the projector is turned off, when it is powered on the speakers will not unmute
Fix eye protection function – this will now stay on at all times
Green tint on gaming mode is now fixed
Additional new function: screensaver
We are currently working on other items raised to our service team and also within this forum, which, as stated we will share information on soon.

We assure you that we are treating this very seriously and we feel very privileged to have such a passionate and loyal customer base. We do not take this for granted. Our entire organisation wants nothing more than for you to feel that you made the right choice when you chose an Optoma projector.

Kind regards
The Optoma Team


----------



## yknottavs

Hi Optoma Team,

glad you're following this thread now. My UHZ65UST has been at the repair center, after it broke down during firmware update, for 2 weeks now with no status update. At least in Germany there's no phone support available and my email request via the optoma homepage never received an answer. That is bad!

Also I really wonder how safe future firmware updates will be. How will I be able to ensure the next firmware update won't break my unit again?
If a firmware update really does go wrong a safety mechanism needs to kick in that allows a recovery. Why doesn't the UHZ65UST implement any recovery methods?


----------



## OPTOMA Official

yknottavs said:


> Hi Optoma Team,
> 
> glad you're following this thread now. My UHZ65UST has been at the repair center, after it broke down during firmware update, for 2 weeks now with no status update. At least in Germany there's no phone support available and my email request via the optoma homepage never received an answer. That is bad!
> 
> Also I really wonder how safe future firmware updates will be. How will I be able to ensure the next firmware update won't break my unit again?
> If a firmware update really does go wrong a safety mechanism needs to kick in that allows a recovery. Why doesn't the UHZ65UST implement any recovery methods?


Hi there,

Please check your inbox. I will chase for a service update and contact you directly.

I'll also have to look into your specific case in regards to the firmware update recovery and will update you and the forum once I do.

You can also find all service centres and their contact details by region here: Optoma authorised service centres - Optoma Europe, Middle East, and Africa


----------



## Mikel O.

OPTOMA Official said:


> Hi there,
> 
> Please check your inbox. I will chase for a service update and contact you directly.
> 
> I'll also have to look into your specific case in regards to the firmware update recovery and will update you and the forum once I do.
> 
> You can also find all service centres and their contact details by region here: Optoma authorised service centres - Optoma Europe, Middle East, and Africa


Very well done, may I suggest that you introduce yourself in the cinemax P2 forum also? some members
are experiencing problems too.

Best regards


----------



## zekonavsforum

Hi all, just to confirm that Optoma is really back here : I had news from the UK Optoma team this afternoon by mail, with description of the firmware 15.5 to come. I proposed them to talk to us here again => I'm very glad to see that they made it, and that communication is back, it's the way to rebuild trust with owners 👍

And now let's begin an new era of firmware updates with fixed bugs 🤩


----------



## oneil50

OPTOMA Official said:


> Where we currently are with P1 fixes:
> 
> First bug fixes to come:
> 
> Improve media app functionality
> Auto reconnecting the Bluetooth Remote Control when remote Bluetooth speaker is disconnected
> Internal speaker muted when the projector is turned off, when it is powered on the speakers will not unmute
> Fix eye protection function – this will now stay on at all times
> Green tint on gaming mode is now fixed
> Additional new function: screensaver
> We are currently working on other items raised to our service team and also within this forum, which, as stated we will share information on soon.


Glad to see that optoma has finally broken the silence. Our patience has already been strained, but we will still be patient and work with you in order to ascertain the problems we encounter as well as possible. A spreadsheet including a few users was created recently, you will find it at this address.
At the moment I'm still on firmware 14.3 delivered on July 2020.


----------



## Kdub69

OPTOMA Official said:


> Hi Everyone,
> 
> Thank you for taking the time to bring these issues to our attention.
> 
> At Optoma, we strive to put customer needs and user experience at the centre of everything we do and believe these are the reasons we have managed to build a strong customer base who return to our products time after time.
> 
> It is clear from the feedback over the past few months that we have fallen short of meeting these expectations and we sincerely apologise for this.
> 
> As a result, we have listened and have taken action by starting to restructure our support operations.
> 
> In addition, we will now be active on this forum and will be available for any issues that may arise going forward, as well as keeping you regularly updated on bug fixes for the P1. These fixes will come in parts and we will keep you updated on release dates.
> 
> We find that with fixes it is important that the projector does not turn off halfway through the update process. The update will happen automatically as long as the function has not been disabled within the menu system. We will also make fixes available on our website for you to download to a USB and use within the service slot.
> 
> Where we currently are with P1 fixes:
> 
> First bug fixes to come:
> 
> Improve media app functionality
> Auto reconnecting the Bluetooth Remote Control when remote Bluetooth speaker is disconnected
> Internal speaker muted when the projector is turned off, when it is powered on the speakers will not unmute
> Fix eye protection function – this will now stay on at all times
> Green tint on gaming mode is now fixed
> Additional new function: screensaver
> We are currently working on other items raised to our service team and also within this forum, which, as stated we will share information on soon.
> 
> We assure you that we are treating this very seriously and we feel very privileged to have such a passionate and loyal customer base. We do not take this for granted. Our entire organisation wants nothing more than for you to feel that you made the right choice when you chose an Optoma projector.
> 
> Kind regards
> The Optoma Team


This is my first time buying optoma I choose this brand for its reputation over the other brands so far the support for the optoma p1 has been horrible to say the least. Glad you are finally on this forum. It all seems like the people that bought the optoma p1 were left in the dust while all the focus was put into the optoma p2. I’m hoping you can fix the bugs sooner than later since we have been waiting a really long time to have a device work like its supposed to. Also will the input lag ever be 55ms like it was originally advertised or will it be in the 70+ range? Is the input lag still going to be worked on or are we out of luck on this issue?


----------



## Christian Spiga

OPTOMA Official said:


> Hi Everyone,
> 
> Thank you for taking the time to bring these issues to our attention.
> 
> At Optoma, we strive to put customer needs and user experience at the centre of everything we do and believe these are the reasons we have managed to build a strong customer base who return to our products time after time.
> 
> It is clear from the feedback over the past few months that we have fallen short of meeting these expectations and we sincerely apologise for this.
> 
> As a result, we have listened and have taken action by starting to restructure our support operations.
> 
> In addition, we will now be active on this forum and will be available for any issues that may arise going forward, as well as keeping you regularly updated on bug fixes for the P1. These fixes will come in parts and we will keep you updated on release dates.
> 
> We find that with fixes it is important that the projector does not turn off halfway through the update process. The update will happen automatically as long as the function has not been disabled within the menu system. We will also make fixes available on our website for you to download to a USB and use within the service slot.
> 
> Where we currently are with P1 fixes:
> 
> First bug fixes to come:
> 
> Improve media app functionality
> Auto reconnecting the Bluetooth Remote Control when remote Bluetooth speaker is disconnected
> Internal speaker muted when the projector is turned off, when it is powered on the speakers will not unmute
> Fix eye protection function – this will now stay on at all times
> Green tint on gaming mode is now fixed
> Additional new function: screensaver
> We are currently working on other items raised to our service team and also within this forum, which, as stated we will share information on soon.
> 
> We assure you that we are treating this very seriously and we feel very privileged to have such a passionate and loyal customer base. We do not take this for granted. Our entire organisation wants nothing more than for you to feel that you made the right choice when you chose an Optoma projector.
> 
> Kind regards
> The Optoma Team


I really appreciate your contribution, and I hope this is just the beginning.
I think there is no better place than this for technical support to get fast and updated information from your customers.

I can suggest another really professional step to follow for the Optoma brand, which is the extension of the warranty period for a further year to users who purchased the P1 / UHZ in the first months of production (late 2019, early 2020).

It is time to admit, without hiding, that the P1 / UHZ was born badly, with unreal technical specifications, and construction problems.

If you really want people to believe in your brand again, this step is crucial.


----------



## Satriales1

OPTOMA Official said:


> Hi Everyone,
> 
> Thank you for taking the time to bring these issues to our attention.
> 
> At Optoma, we strive to put customer needs and user experience at the centre of everything we do and believe these are the reasons we have managed to build a strong customer base who return to our products time after time.
> 
> It is clear from the feedback over the past few months that we have fallen short of meeting these expectations and we sincerely apologise for this.
> 
> As a result, we have listened and have taken action by starting to restructure our support operations.
> 
> In addition, we will now be active on this forum and will be available for any issues that may arise going forward, as well as keeping you regularly updated on bug fixes for the P1. These fixes will come in parts and we will keep you updated on release dates.
> 
> We find that with fixes it is important that the projector does not turn off halfway through the update process. The update will happen automatically as long as the function has not been disabled within the menu system. We will also make fixes available on our website for you to download to a USB and use within the service slot.
> 
> Where we currently are with P1 fixes:
> 
> First bug fixes to come:
> 
> Improve media app functionality
> Auto reconnecting the Bluetooth Remote Control when remote Bluetooth speaker is disconnected
> Internal speaker muted when the projector is turned off, when it is powered on the speakers will not unmute
> Fix eye protection function – this will now stay on at all times
> Green tint on gaming mode is now fixed
> Additional new function: screensaver
> We are currently working on other items raised to our service team and also within this forum, which, as stated we will share information on soon.
> 
> We assure you that we are treating this very seriously and we feel very privileged to have such a passionate and loyal customer base. We do not take this for granted. Our entire organisation wants nothing more than for you to feel that you made the right choice when you chose an Optoma projector.
> 
> Kind regards
> The Optoma Team


Hi there,

Please can you advise if there will be an update for the UHZ65UST to allow HLG via HDMI? Not one piece of marketing or advertising mentions it is only compatible via USB which is very disappointing. Those of us with Sky Q require the projector to be HLG compatible through the HDMI port.

Many thanks.


----------



## OPTOMA Official

Satriales1 said:


> Hi there,
> 
> Please can you advise if there will be an update for the UHZ65UST to allow HLG via HDMI? Not one piece of marketing or advertising mentions it is only compatible via USB which is very disappointing. Those of us with Sky Q require the projector to be HLG compatible through the HDMI port.
> 
> Many thanks.


Hello,

HLG is only supported via USB for both the UHZ65UST and P2. The marketing has been updated to be more specific and to reflect this.

HDR is available via Sky, however, there are known issues with Sky and HDR which we are currently in discussions with them to resolve the issue.


Kind regards
Carina


----------



## OPTOMA Official

Christian Spiga said:


> I really appreciate your contribution, and I hope this is just the beginning.
> I think there is no better place than this for technical support to get fast and updated information from your customers.
> 
> I can suggest another really professional step to follow for the Optoma brand, which is the extension of the warranty period for a further year to users who purchased the P1 / UHZ in the first months of production (late 2019, early 2020).
> 
> It is time to admit, without hiding, that the P1 / UHZ was born badly, with unreal technical specifications, and construction problems.
> 
> If you really want people to believe in your brand again, this step is crucial.


Hi Christian, 

We are working hard to rectify the issues with certain lines of the P1/UHZ. Thank you for your suggestion, I have passed this onto our management team who will investigate further and see what can be done. 

In the meantime, if you have any problems with your projector, please contact our service team directly at [email protected], they will always strive to come to the best resolution for you as a customer.


Kind regards
Carina


----------



## Satriales1

OPTOMA Official said:


> Hello,
> 
> HLG is only supported via USB for both the UHZ65UST and P2. The marketing has been updated to be more specific and to reflect this.
> 
> HDR is available via Sky, however, there are known issues with Sky and HDR which we are currently in discussions with them to resolve the issue.
> 
> 
> Kind regards
> Carina


Hi Carina

Thanks for your reply.

Sky broadcast HDR content in HLG format, I doubt they are going to change it unless you can confirm otherwise? I spent £3299.00 on the projector a few months ago, so Optoma changing the marketing now is of no use to me at all. I would suggest it was false advertising before which is very poor.

Regards
Dave


----------



## OPTOMA Official

Satriales1 said:


> Hi Carina
> 
> Thanks for your reply.
> 
> Sky broadcast HDR content in HLG format, I doubt they are going to change it unless you can confirm otherwise? I spent £3299.00 on the projector a few months ago, so Optoma changing the marketing now is of no use to me at all. I would suggest it was false advertising before which is very poor.
> 
> Regards
> Dave


Hi Dave,

I completely understand. Please do get in touch with me directly and I will do my best to help [email protected]

Kind regards
Carina


----------



## Kdub69

OPTOMA Official said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> I completely understand. Please do get in touch with me directly and I will do my best to help [email protected]
> 
> Kind regards
> Carina


Also false advertising with the input lag will this be fixed or will it stay at 70+? It was horrible before at 150 ms when it first launched but still not near the 55ms that was advertised.


----------



## jhbball2002

@OPTOMA Official 

Similar to what Kdub69 says. The input lag in gaming mode doesn't match the advertised spec of 55ms when I purchased the projector, even after the 'fix' in a previous firmware update (improved to 75ms). How will your team be addressing this?

Additionally, 'tint shifting' when using dynamic black enabled is a real issue. Any update on this?


----------



## Christian Spiga

OPTOMA Official said:


> Hi Christian,
> 
> We are working hard to rectify the issues with certain lines of the P1/UHZ. Thank you for your suggestion, I have passed this onto our management team who will investigate further and see what can be done.
> 
> In the meantime, if you have any problems with your projector, please contact our service team directly at [email protected], they will always strive to come to the best resolution for you as a customer.
> 
> 
> Kind regards
> Carina


My UHZ65UST come back Friday from support after 3 weeks. They fix the problem of the Color Wheel and they clean the mirror of the engine. But they remove the “halo” on the down left part and now there is one new upper right. Firmware is still 14.3 probably because they know the problems and they didn’t update during the service. I will wait the last day of warranty to send again, hopefully in the meantime also the new firmware will be finally out.


----------



## fischkai

Dear Carina,

will the issue been fixed with the UHZ65 UST and the coming firmware update that the picture turns darker from time to time when playing HDR content? Support in germany told me that I have to disable pure motion (set to 0). That fixed the issue but I also want to use pure motion.

Best Regards
Kai


----------



## Roger92

@Christian: did the support fixed the color banding issue ?


----------



## Christian Spiga

Roger92 said:


> @Christian: did the support fixed the color banding issue ?


Yes. In the report they "Adjusted the Color Wheel".


----------



## Roger92

Was it effective ? Did you test ? Wondering if I should also send to support.......


----------



## solal-

Hi, 

I've got my uhz65ust from D1, and I have not has much problem as people on the forums. The only two problems I have is that some time I have the bug with half of the picture darker, and the other is when I switched from HDR ( ex: ps5) to non hdr (shield) the color are totally inaccurate and dark (it can be easily as the background picture in the shield menu is totally black). I find a way to 'fix' that, each time it happen (or in fact each time I switch between hdr and non hdr), I press the 'home' button then I select back 'HDMI 1', and then the color became good. Hope this can help some of you.
At first when I got the projector I was like hooo the color are really ugly compared to my old sony, then in fact is not that bad in hdr, then hoo the color are totally wrong, and now I understand that's because of this bug. (and also I have to calibrate the color etc...). 
What I did not understand is that I read review many on this projector and nobody complained/informed about that problem, so now I'm less confident about certain review site.


----------



## g4s

I've got 15.5 installing here this morning. Hope it goes well.


----------



## ernest787

I woke up this morning to a new update. I had previously updated to 15.4 and was one of the lucky ones that did not have many issues. Had the power issue like twice and the half screen once but for the most part it all worked. 

Just updated to 15.5. Took roughly 20 minutes to complete. So far no issues. I have the Nvidia Shield Pro and this update is suppose to fix issues with the compatibility with the shield. Very subjective but I think the picture looks better already. 

On start up the Shield splash screen always looked kind of washed out and it looks much punchier now. Black levels look better.


----------



## hockey1980

Same here Woohoo! 15.5 firmware downloading... hopefully this sorts things 

I have UHZ65UST btw....

For those interested, release notes attached


----------



## cincylion

hockey1980 said:


> Same here Woohoo! 15.5 firmware downloading... hopefully this sorts things
> 
> I have UHZ65UST btw....
> 
> For those interested, release notes attached
> 
> View attachment 3095115
> View attachment 3095116
> View attachment 3095117
> View attachment 3095118


Number 8 is completely unacceptable. Because of compatibility with cables? That's nonsense.


----------



## pweaver2021

After upgrading to C15.5 how do I go back?

I lost all sound now. If I go to Menu and then Audio I see that Volume is -1, if I increase it I see "error." Digital Output shows "error"

When I am on HDMI1 and try to change the volume the box with the volume inside shows "Media" at the top so my guess is that the system things it needs to take the audio from Media. The volume was fine until I tried the new media player, since then I haven't been able to hear a thing.

How do I go back to a previous firmware version?


----------



## Kdub69

pweaver2021 said:


> After upgrading to C15.5 how do I go back?
> 
> I lost all sound now. If I go to Menu and then Audio I see that Volume is -1, if I increase it I see "error." Digital Output shows "error"
> 
> When I am on HDMI1 and try to change the volume the box with the volume inside shows "Media" at the top so my guess is that the system things it needs to take the audio from Media. The volume was fine until I tried the new media player, since then I haven't been able to hear a thing.
> 
> How do I go back to a previous firmware version?


I don’t think you can go back, are you using the speakers on board or sound through a receiver?


----------



## pweaver2021

Kdub69 said:


> I don’t think you can go back, are you using the speakers on board or sound through a receiver?


I'm using the speakers on board. I managed to recover from the issue by unplugging it for a while then plugging it back in.

Now that it is working I see that the volume box still shows "Media" but when it was not working there was a small green note symbol next to "Media" and now that it is working that small green note symbol is not there.


----------



## hockey1980

I still get the random muting issue and powering off not working (remote or projector) requiring mains switch off

.... very tired of all this now


----------



## Christian Spiga

Now my dear Optoma, you need to explain me what you connect to hdmi 3 1.4 in the 2021, tell which unuseful device work with an 1.4 hdmi.
Now I’m fuc**ng really pissed, seems like you want the war and not to solve.
How many specifications not maintained we must collect to have back our money? Tell me?
Now we really start to do something all together to fight against this situation!


----------



## oneil50

Update downloading. I hope everything will be allright. 2 minutes per percent but end of DL at 50%. I need two reboot for the update.
Finally, I check fast before sleep, game mode seems work, automapping Shield TV too. This is a good point. 
Dynamic black seems less red tint but on level 1, brightness adjust looks more visible.
I will check about this tomorrow.


----------



## eedwards86

OPTOMA Official said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> I completely understand. Please do get in touch with me directly and I will do my best to help [email protected]
> 
> Kind regards
> Carina


Hello Carina,

Is Optoma aware or actively working to fix the HDMI connection (possible EDID) issues associated with the P1/UHZ65UST? I believe for many of us that's been one of the biggest issues as it's made using the device extremely difficult due to the many drop-outs in connection. There have been some workarounds but a stable connection would go a long way in trusting this device more.

Thanks for hearing me and the others out.


----------



## joker2005

k


----------



## Christian Spiga

eedwards86 said:


> Hello Carina,
> 
> Is Optoma aware or actively working to fix the HDMI connection (possible EDID) issues associated with the P1/UHZ65UST? I believe for many of us that's been one of the biggest issues as it's made using the device extremely difficult due to the many drop-outs in connection. There have been some workarounds but a stable connection would go a long way in trusting this device more.
> 
> Thanks for hearing me and the others out.


It's super funny. They downgrade the HDMI 3 Port to 1.4, so we have only 2 Hdmi 2.0 to use, so you need to use an A/V Receiver to connect all your device, BUUUUUTTTTTTT, the EDID problem make really difficult to use an A/V Receiver. So tell me Optoma, which is you goal?


----------



## Christian Spiga

Hey Guys, help me to write a list of all the specifications not true of the P1/UHZ65UST, please add if i forgot something:

1 - 55ms Latency (80ms if you are lucky and you don't use the geometric correction to fit better in your 2000 euro alr screen ahahhahah)
2 - HLG ready (only by USB but never mentioned, 1 minute of silence for the owners of SkyQ)
3 - 3 HDMI 2.0 Port (Now 2, but you can still use an A/V receiver.....mmmm...not sorry the EDID problem don't let you do it)

Here in this forum there is one of you that is a professional Loyal ? That know what we can do?


----------



## joker2005

[QUOTE = "Christian Spiga, Post: 60525196, Mitglied: 9482252"]
Hey Leute, hilf mir, eine Liste aller Spezifikationen zu schreiben, die für den P1 / UHZ65UST nicht zutreffen. Bitte füge hinzu, wenn ich etwas vergessen habe:

1 - 55 ms Latenz (80 ms, wenn Sie Glück haben und die geometrische Korrektur nicht verwenden, um besser in Ihren 2000-Euro-Bildschirm zu passen, ahahhahah)
2 - HLG-fähig (nur über USB, aber nie erwähnt, 1 Minute Stille für die Besitzer von SkyQ)
3 - 3 HDMI 2.0-Anschluss (Jetzt 2, aber Sie können immer noch einen A / V-Receiver verwenden ..... mmmm ... das EDID-Problem tut mir nicht leid, lassen Sie es nicht zu)
[/ZITAT]
ichmmer noch probleme mit Dynamik Black 2 & 3


----------



## joker2005

Kurz zum Thema,HD Fury Arcana.....für all diejenigen die damit das HLG Problem lösen wollen,muss ich Euch enttäuschen,der Arcana unterstüzt diese Funktion nicht,perfect funktioniert die Dolby Vision übersetzung. Für das HLG Problem benötigt man einen Vertex2 oder den Diva von HD Fury.Um Dolby Vision und HLG ohne lästiges umschalten der Konfiguration nutzen zu können,sogar einen Vertex2 und einen Arcana.Ich habe alles persönlich getestet.Beim Einsatz von Arcana und Vertex2 Ergebnisse echt beeindruckend,vor allen Dingen bei Apple tv 4K(habe bei den Streamingdiesten Netflix(Dolby Vision),Disney Plus(DV).Amazon Prime(HDR) und Sky(HLG zu HDR,funktioniert auch das HDR der Streamer) so extrem gute Detaildarstellung und Tiefe des Bildes geniessen zu können.Manko beide Geräte zusammen 540 Euro!!!!!!!!!!


*____*
Optoma UST,Shield TV Pro,Apple TV 4K,Google TV Chromecast,PS4 Pro,Zappitti 4K HDR Pro,,Yamaha RX-A3080,Sky Q Receiver,Klippsch Dolby Atmos System,120er CLR RahmenleinwandModeration benachrichtigen

eMail-Benachrichtigung deaktivierenThread beobachten Druckansicht​


----------



## Christian Spiga

joker2005 said:


> [QUOTE = "Christian Spiga, Post: 60525196, Mitglied: 9482252"]
> Hey Leute, hilf mir, eine Liste aller Spezifikationen zu schreiben, die für den P1 / UHZ65UST nicht zutreffen. Bitte füge hinzu, wenn ich etwas vergessen habe:
> 
> 1 - 55 ms Latenz (80 ms, wenn Sie Glück haben und die geometrische Korrektur nicht verwenden, um besser in Ihren 2000-Euro-Bildschirm zu passen, ahahhahah)
> 2 - HLG-fähig (nur über USB, aber nie erwähnt, 1 Minute Stille für die Besitzer von SkyQ)
> 3 - 3 HDMI 2.0-Anschluss (Jetzt 2, aber Sie können immer noch einen A / V-Receiver verwenden ..... mmmm ... das EDID-Problem tut mir nicht leid, lassen Sie es nicht zu)
> [/ZITAT]
> ichmmer noch probleme mit Dynamik Black 2 & 3


Dynamic Black problem is not a "No true specification", we need to be focused on what they sell us and is not true.


----------



## namtech

joker2005 said:


> Kurz zum Thema,HD Fury Arcana.....für all diejenigen die damit das HLG Problem lösen wollen,muss ich Euch enttäuschen,der Arcana unterstüzt diese Funktion nicht,perfect funktioniert die Dolby Vision übersetzung. Für das HLG Problem benötigt man einen Vertex2 oder den Diva von HD Fury.Um Dolby Vision und HLG ohne lästiges umschalten der Konfiguration nutzen zu können,sogar einen Vertex2 und einen Arcana.Ich habe alles persönlich getestet.Beim Einsatz von Arcana und Vertex2 Ergebnisse echt beeindruckend,vor allen Dingen bei Apple tv 4K(habe bei den Streamingdiesten Netflix(Dolby Vision),Disney Plus(DV).Amazon Prime(HDR) und Sky(HLG zu HDR,funktioniert auch das HDR der Streamer) so extrem gute Detaildarstellung und Tiefe des Bildes geniessen zu können.Manko beide Geräte zusammen 540 Euro!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> *____*
> Optoma UST,Shield TV Pro,Apple TV 4K,Google TV Chromecast,PS4 Pro,Zappitti 4K HDR Pro,,Yamaha RX-A3080,Sky Q Receiver,Klippsch Dolby Atmos System,120er CLR RahmenleinwandModeration benachrichtigen
> 
> eMail-Benachrichtigung deaktivierenThread beobachten Druckansicht​


Please post in english here or at least have translations available for non german folks.


----------



## joker2005

namtech said:


> Please post in english here or at least have translations available for non german folks.
> Briefly on the subject, HD Fury Arcana ..... for all those who want to solve the HLG problem with it, I have to disappoint you, the Arcana does not support this function, the Dolby Vision translation works perfectly. For the HLG problem you need a Vertex2 or the Diva from HD Fury. In order to be able to use Dolby Vision and HLG without the hassle of switching the configuration, even a Vertex2 and an Arcana. I have tested everything personally. When using Arcana and Vertex2 results are real impressive, especially with Apple tv 4K (the streaming services Netflix (Dolby Vision), Disney Plus (DV), Amazon Prime (HDR) and Sky (HLG to HDR, the HDR of the streamer also works) so extremely good detail display and To be able to enjoy the depth of the picture. Shortcoming of both devices together 540 euros !!!!!!!!!!
> Google Translator


----------



## Mick Seymour

cincylion said:


> Number 8 is completely unacceptable. Because of compatibility with cables? That's nonsense.


What are they talking about! I've a sat box plugged into HDMI 2 and my AVP plugged into HDMI 1. I'm not using marginal or poorly constructed cables on those inputs so why do they think I'll use marginal or poorly constructed cables on HDMI 3? Unless HDMI 3 is a different chipset and not up to the task as advertised?


----------



## namtech

Mick Seymour said:


> What are they talking about! I've a sat box plugged into HDMI 2 and my AVP plugged into HDMI 1. I'm not using marginal or poorly constructed cables on those inputs so why do they think I'll use marginal or poorly constructed cables on HDMI 3? Unless HDMI 3 is a different chipset and not up to the task as advertised?


haha, yeah, i had a good laugh reading point 8. I assume this will be in the next P2 firmware too, not that it affects me but nonetheless its a very poor excuse for their own build quality. i.e why would HDMI3 be different to HDMI1/2, unless it is indeed a cheaper chip/board. Proposed Fix for Changelog: "We identified a non-fixable issue on Board/Chipset/Connector-whatever-bla for HDMI3, which forces us the limit the Port to HDMI 1.4; your cables are fine, we are sorry"


----------



## Spekuloos

Christian Spiga said:


> Dynamic Black problem is not a "No true specification", we need to be focused on what they sell us and is not true.


These projectors are advertised with a technology that seriously improves contrast, and this was one of the reasons that some of us had to buy a P1/P2/UHZ65UST. That technology is not working as it should, and for some of us it is just unusable (red tint). Furthermore, we have no guarantee that it will ever become functional.

So I do think that it should be included in your list.

The good news is that Optoma are working on a software update to fix the DB issues (see my post from yesterday on the P2 thread). The bad news is that there is no ETA on it, and no guarantee that it will ever work properly.


----------



## Roger92

Black level on this P1 is not the best compared to some of my previous projectors


----------



## Spekuloos

Satriales1 said:


> Hi there,
> 
> Please can you advise if there will be an update for the UHZ65UST to allow HLG via HDMI? Not one piece of marketing or advertising mentions it is only compatible via USB which is very disappointing. Those of us with Sky Q require the projector to be HLG compatible through the HDMI port.
> 
> Many thanks.


I just received confirmation from Optoma Spain that the P2 will never be HLG compliant via HDMI since "the HDMI entries do not accept those image metadata so no matter what you plug in there it will not detect it". I would assume that the same applies to the UHZ65UST and to the P1.


----------



## maverick87r

Updated to the latest and seeing some color banding with some of the colors still. Anyone have issues like that? Running Apple TV 4K.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## OPTOMA Official

oneil50 said:


> Glad to see that optoma has finally broken the silence. Our patience has already been strained, but we will still be patient and work with you in order to ascertain the problems we encounter as well as possible. A spreadsheet including a few users was created recently, you will find it at this address.
> At the moment I'm still on firmware 14.3 delivered on July 2020.





pweaver2021 said:


> After upgrading to C15.5 how do I go back?
> 
> I lost all sound now. If I go to Menu and then Audio I see that Volume is -1, if I increase it I see "error." Digital Output shows "error"
> 
> When I am on HDMI1 and try to change the volume the box with the volume inside shows "Media" at the top so my guess is that the system things it needs to take the audio from Media. The volume was fine until I tried the new media player, since then I haven't been able to hear a thing.
> 
> How do I go back to a previous firmware version?


Hello -- Sorry to hear about the issues you are experiencing.

1. Checked this over the weekend, FOTA and USB Upgrade testing did not reveal any issues with audio or the power button on the remote and or unit becoming unresponsive. 

2. After the Upgrade to C15.5, have you performed a Factory Reset? While not always ideal, often FOTA (Firmware Over The Air) can result in some configuration issues. A factory reset will clear all buffers and other configuration data.

3. If willing, would like to have you try the USB Upgrade version of the FW. This version will install the Upgrade outside of the OS. This WILL result in a factory reset. If you have specific settings you need to restore, please capture them BEFORE using the USB Version of the Upgrade. This version is for Upgrade "from" C15.4/C15.5 to C15.5 ONLY. It will NOT work with any build prior to C15.x (example: C14.3).









CinemaX_P1_C15.5_DDP_C21_MCU_C12_Upgrade_C15.4_To_C15.5_Only.zip


Shared with Dropbox




www.dropbox.com


----------



## OPTOMA Official

Spekuloos said:


> I just received confirmation from Optoma Spain that the P2 will never be HLG compliant via HDMI since "the HDMI entries do not accept those image metadata so no matter what you plug in there it will not detect it". I would assume that the same applies to the UHZ65UST and to the P1.


Yes, this applies to UHZ65UST, P1 and P2. HLG is supported with the USB Media Player.


----------



## OPTOMA Official

Spekuloos said:


> These projectors are advertised with a technology that seriously improves contrast, and this was one of the reasons that some of us had to buy a P1/P2/UHZ65UST. That technology is not working as it should, and for some of us it is just unusable (red tint). Furthermore, we have no guarantee that it will ever become functional.
> 
> So I do think that it should be included in your list.
> 
> The good news is that Optoma are working on a software update to fix the DB issues (see my post from yesterday on the P2 thread). The bad news is that there is no ETA on it, and no guarantee that it will ever work properly.


Yes, we are exploring some improvements to DB. Due to the nature of the products, it is not as straight forward as flipping a switch. We WILL keep everyone posted.


----------



## Kev1000000

What I would love to know is if this color banding/blotchyness is a software or hardware issue. I've heard both claimed. To me, this 100% looks software related but would love to hear from Optoma on this issue. It's really my biggest overall complaint of this projector.


----------



## OPTOMA Official

namtech said:


> haha, yeah, i had a good laugh reading point 8. I assume this will be in the next P2 firmware too, not that it affects me but nonetheless its a very poor excuse for their own build quality. i.e why would HDMI3 be different to HDMI1/2, unless it is indeed a cheaper chip/board. Proposed Fix for Changelog: "We identified a non-fixable issue on Board/Chipset/Connector-whatever-bla for HDMI3, which forces us the limit the Port to HDMI 1.4; your cables are fine, we are sorry"


1. HDMI 1 and HDMI 2 are part of the mainboard, HDMI Port 3 is not attached to the mainboard (directly). The change to the port is based on issues reported via here on AVS, Customer Service, etc. While cables are not necessarily bad, cables are a "big" factor. Not ALL cables are created equal. People like to believe that a cable is cable yet this is simply untrue. Cable components, architecture, shielding, and other factors determine the compatibility of cables.

2. During extensive testing, we found that "many" 4K Certified cables can have "poor signal attenuation" -- and when combined with HDMI Port3, can result in handshake issues and or signal connectivity issues. For the record, P2 launched with HDMI 3 set to HDMI 1.4. 

3. With the above said -- working on a solution for those who wish to keep HDMI 3 at HDMI 2.0. Will say no more - until we finalize the plan. We will post an update over the next few days. Please be patient.


----------



## OPTOMA Official

Christian Spiga said:


> Hey Guys, help me to write a list of all the specifications not true of the P1/UHZ65UST, please add if i forgot something:
> 
> 1 - 55ms Latency (80ms if you are lucky and you don't use the geometric correction to fit better in your 2000 euro alr screen ahahhahah)
> 2 - HLG ready (only by USB but never mentioned, 1 minute of silence for the owners of SkyQ)
> 3 - 3 HDMI 2.0 Port (Now 2, but you can still use an A/V receiver.....mmmm...not sorry the EDID problem don't let you do it)
> 
> Here in this forum there is one of you that is a professional Loyal ? That know what we can do?


1. We apologize for the input lag performance. With FW Upgrade C14.3, we improved input lag -- down from 100+ms to 72ms. This involved implementing a bypass mode for 4K and 1080p and 120Hz internal processing for 1080p. While not ideal, (I am a life-long gamer) it represents the best input lag for the product today.

All input is checked via a scope AND using the Leo Bodnar Input Lag Tester --- 4K HDMI Video Signal Lag Tester [4Klagtest] - 299.99GBP : Leo Bodnar, Simulator Electronics . 

How did you reach the conclusion of 80ms?

2. SmartFIT and PureMotion must be disabled as both features "are processes" that incur additional input lag. This is really no different than TV. While TV doesn't use Geometry Correction as it is not relevant to panels, in Game Mode, TV's disable all unnecessary video processing for the same reason that we disable SmartFIT and PureMotion. If you dislike SmartFIT being disabled, I "strongly" recommend setting up the projector without SmartFIT. Yes, setting up UST can be more with a challenge without SmartFIT, yet it will eliminate the need for SmartFIT to be disabled prior to gaming. Our SmartFIT Installation Guide has instructions for setup without SmartFIT. A link to the guide is present on the addendum in the P1 box and can be found below. If you need additional assistance in setting up without SmartFIT, please let us know. 

smartfit | Optoma support


----------



## Spekuloos

OPTOMA Official said:


> 1. We apologize for the input lag performance. With FW Upgrade C14.3, we improved input lag -- down from 100+ms to 72ms. This involved implementing a bypass mode for 4K and 1080p and 120Hz internal processing for 1080p. While not ideal, (I am a life-long gamer) it represents the best input lag for the product today.
> 
> All input is checked via a scope AND using the Leo Bodnar Input Lag Tester --- 4K HDMI Video Signal Lag Tester [4Klagtest] - 299.99GBP : Leo Bodnar, Simulator Electronics .
> 
> How did you reach the conclusion of 80ms?
> 
> 2. SmartFIT and PureMotion must be disabled as both features "are processes" that incur additional input lag. This is really no different than TV. While TV doesn't use Geometry Correction as it is not relevant to panels, in Game Mode, TV's disable all unnecessary video processing for the same reason that we disable SmartFIT and PureMotion. If you dislike SmartFIT being disabled, I "strongly" recommend setting up the projector without SmartFIT. Yes, setting up UST can be more with a challenge without SmartFIT, yet it will eliminate the need for SmartFIT to be disabled prior to gaming. Our SmartFIT Installation Guide has instructions for setup without SmartFIT. A link to the guide is present on the addendum in the P1 box and can be found below. If you need additional assistance in setting up without SmartFIT, please let us know.
> 
> smartfit | Optoma support


Good evening, 

Just to understand correctly, you reduced the input lag from 100ms+ to 72ms without game mode? Or that's with game mode on? 

You say that Smart Fit and Pure Motion must be disabled for game mode to work, but so does the *manual* geometrical correction, and for me that's what's really problematic.

Since some of us find it impossible to frame the image inside the screen without using the manual geometrical correction, it means that game mode is unusable (not to mention the image quality degradation when using game mode, which I don't know if there is a workaround for). 

You compare this to a TV, but a TV's image is not going to jump out of the screen when you desactivate image processing...


----------



## Kdub69

OPTOMA Official said:


> 1. We apologize for the input lag performance. With FW Upgrade C14.3, we improved input lag -- down from 100+ms to 72ms. This involved implementing a bypass mode for 4K and 1080p and 120Hz internal processing for 1080p. While not ideal, (I am a life-long gamer) it represents the best input lag for the product today.
> 
> All input is checked via a scope AND using the Leo Bodnar Input Lag Tester --- 4K HDMI Video Signal Lag Tester [4Klagtest] - 299.99GBP : Leo Bodnar, Simulator Electronics .
> 
> How did you reach the conclusion of 80ms?
> 
> 2. SmartFIT and PureMotion must be disabled as both features "are processes" that incur additional input lag. This is really no different than TV. While TV doesn't use Geometry Correction as it is not relevant to panels, in Game Mode, TV's disable all unnecessary video processing for the same reason that we disable SmartFIT and PureMotion. If you dislike SmartFIT being disabled, I "strongly" recommend setting up the projector without SmartFIT. Yes, setting up UST can be more with a challenge without SmartFIT, yet it will eliminate the need for SmartFIT to be disabled prior to gaming. Our SmartFIT Installation Guide has instructions for setup without SmartFIT. A link to the guide is present on the addendum in the P1 box and can be found below. If you need additional assistance in setting up without SmartFIT, please let us know.
> 
> smartfit | Optoma support


Thanks for the info but are you still working on getting the input lag down from 72 to 55 or did you give up? Please tell me you are still working on this as it would be very disappointing, even though I do appreciate the upgrade from 100+ Down to 72


----------



## Roger92

Dynamic black stopped working on mine. Had to do a full reset to get it back working


----------



## Christian Spiga

OPTOMA Official said:


> 1. We apologize for the input lag performance. With FW Upgrade C14.3, we improved input lag -- down from 100+ms to 72ms. This involved implementing a bypass mode for 4K and 1080p and 120Hz internal processing for 1080p. While not ideal, (I am a life-long gamer) it represents the best input lag for the product today.
> 
> All input is checked via a scope AND using the Leo Bodnar Input Lag Tester --- 4K HDMI Video Signal Lag Tester [4Klagtest] - 299.99GBP : Leo Bodnar, Simulator Electronics .
> 
> How did you reach the conclusion of 80ms?
> 
> 2. SmartFIT and PureMotion must be disabled as both features "are processes" that incur additional input lag. This is really no different than TV. While TV doesn't use Geometry Correction as it is not relevant to panels, in Game Mode, TV's disable all unnecessary video processing for the same reason that we disable SmartFIT and PureMotion. If you dislike SmartFIT being disabled, I "strongly" recommend setting up the projector without SmartFIT. Yes, setting up UST can be more with a challenge without SmartFIT, yet it will eliminate the need for SmartFIT to be disabled prior to gaming. Our SmartFIT Installation Guide has instructions for setup without SmartFIT. A link to the guide is present on the addendum in the P1 box and can be found below. If you need additional assistance in setting up without SmartFIT, please let us know.
> 
> smartfit | Optoma support


Hey, first of all stop to answer in "Politician Style" if you want to be helpful.

Now i refresh your memory.

In October 2019 i buy the UHZ65UST that was selled as 55ms latency. First reviews, every where, have a result of 170ms latency, MORE THAN 3 TIMES of the specifications.
Optoma said, we will solve in the next firmware upgrade.
So, what can do someone that spend € 3.299, wait? or send back?
I decide to wait because Optoma WAS a BIG brand in the projectors world, the time goes, i cannot give back the projector after more than 30 days, i didn't already know but i was fu**ed!

August 2020.......10 MONTHS LATER, 10, not 1 or 2 or 3, TEN!
Go out the 14.3, all here were super happy, finally a Game Mode, and for me 72ms was kind of acceptable.
I activate the Game Mode and.....BANG, all the image not centered in my screen, € 1.299 Elite Screeen CLR trash on the WC in Game Mode, with plus a nice Green Tint.
And i'm talking only about the Game Mode, because the 14.3 had also a lot of other bugs.

February 2021......6 MONTHS LATER, 6, not 1 or 2 or 3, SIX!
You go out with this update that in the end, only remove the green tint, that don't solve the EDID problems, and that downgrade an HDMI port only because only god know what kind of cheapest chipset you use for that.
You pretend nothing has happened about the HLG question that is really serious, but you are proud that wil work using the horrible integrated Media Player.
Dynamic Black don't work properly and you said that is not easy to fix like push a switch, but is passed 1,5 year since the projector is selled, and probably 2 years and more since was developed.

And in the end, for the respect of the people that really soffer about, don't nominate the Corona as a justification for all these delay, because i tell you again, if there is something that must be delayed is OUR WARRANTY.


----------



## oneil50

Ok I did more test this morning. 
No more green tint and cropping with Gaming mode but on the rapid horizontal movements of the camera over a very bright area, we can see a slight split screen in the middle of the image. It does not bother but it is visible. 
HDR on Shield TV is 100% solved.
Dynamic black is like the previous firmware, still red tint but with -1 bias on red it looks far better and contrast too.

But I encounter the same issue as before : I have a pioneer amp between my Shield and the optoma and when I'm using 4k 60hz 10 bit HDR ready, I tick option to match the color space (otherwise SDR look washed). My menus are therefore in SDR and when I launch HDR content, the projector goes to load the parameters but displays a gray screen for 2 seconds which causes the Shield application to crash and therefore returns to SDR on the main menu of the shield. If I do this same manipulation in 12 bit instead of 10, I have no issue. 
However in 12 bit sometimes, the projector does not switch to HDR and remains in SDR.
If I test directly on HDMI of the optoma, I have no problem. Got no issue with BD player, Zidoo and Xbox, only with android Box.
Any Ideas ? Is this EDID problem ?

Since Firmware 15.5, 1080p and 4k (24hz) movies looks less fluid than before (3: 2 pulldown). No problem in 3D just in 2D. Am I the only one to notice this or am I the one hallucinating ?


----------



## Mick Seymour

Kev1000000 said:


> What I would love to know is if this color banding/blotchyness is a software or hardware issue. I've heard both claimed. To me, this 100% looks software related but would love to hear from Optoma on this issue. It's really my biggest overall complaint of this projector.


That's horrible. Is it HD or UHD?

I'm trying to get some examples of banding/posterization issues on my UHZ65UST so I can send them to support. From what I've read here in the past, it could be a colour wheel problem.


----------



## Kev1000000

Mick Seymour said:


> That's horrible. Is it HD or UHD?
> 
> I'm trying to get some examples of banding/posterization issues on my UHZ65UST so I can send them to support. From what I've read here in the past, it could be a colour wheel problem.


1080p on Youtube.


----------



## Satriales1

So you are using Arcana and Vertex 2 together? How is the setup? I thought the Arcana Fury was capable of converting to HLG?


----------



## joker2005

Original from HD Fury

Hi there

I was in talks with dev.
You need the vertex 2 or diva to do HLG-HDR conversion.
The arcana does not have this ability.
*** *****

 __ __ *__ _* 
/\ \/\ \ /\ _`\ /'___\ 
\ \ \_\ \\ \ \/\ \ /\ \__/ __ __ _ __ __ __ 
\ \ _ \\ \ \ \ \\ \ ,*\/\ \/\ \ /\`'*\/\ \/\ \ 
\ \ \ \ \\ \ \_\ \\ \ \_/\ \ \_\ \\ \ \/ \ \ \_\ \ 
\ \_\ \_\\ \*/ \ \_\ \ \*/ \ \_\ \/`____ \
\/_/\/_/ \/*/ \// \/_*/ \/_/ `/___/> \
/\___/
 \/__/
***\ www.HDfury.com /*****

_LEGAL DISCLAIMER_

.
.


----------



## Satriales1

joker2005 said:


> Original from HD Fury
> 
> Hi there
> 
> I was in talks with dev.
> You need the vertex 2 or diva to do HLG-HDR conversion.
> The arcana does not have this ability.
> _ ****_
> 
> __ __ *__ _*
> /\ \/\ \ /\ _`\ /'___\
> \ \ \_\ \\ \ \/\ \ /\ \/ __ __ _ __ __ __
> \ \ _ \\ \ \ \ \\ \ ,*\/\ \/\ \ /\`'*\/\ \/\ \
> \ \ \ \ \\ \ \_\ \\ \ \_/\ \ \_\ \\ \ \/ \ \ \_\ \
> \ \_\ \_\\ \*/ \ \\ \ \*_/ \ \\ \/`___ \
> \/_/\/_/ \/*/ \// \/*_/ \// `/__/> \
> /\___/
> \/__/
> _\ www.HDfury.com /****_
> 
> _LEGAL DISCLAIMER_
> 
> .
> .


Ah ok thanks, thats frustrating. Sure I saw on their website that it does suport it.


----------



## joker2005

I have HD Fury Vertex and works perfect,Sky UHD HDR on my Optoma HLG translate to HDR


----------



## joker2005

HD Fury Vertex 2 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## joker2005

Sky UHD HDR ,Vertex2 translate HLG to HDR


----------



## fischkai

Dear community,

sorry to bother you. I am an unexperienced owner of the uhz65 ust. So hopefully you don't mind my questions.

- Quote: "Dynamic black is like the previous firmware, still red tint but with -1 bias on red it looks far better and contrast too."

What do I have to do to have less red in my picture? Is the picture really that bad?

- Is it already a good idea to update to firmware 15.5?

- Do I need a HLG to HDR conversion? Or is it only important if I am an owner of a Sky receiver?

- Is the problem fixed with 15.5 that the picture gets darker from time to time when I am playing HDR content? That really bothers me. Support in germany told me to disable "puremotion".

@OPTOMA Official: When I install the 15.5 firmware knowing that it disables HDMI 2.0 on port 3 is it like I am accepting the fact and it's not possible to return the device in the future?

Kind Regards
Kai


----------



## OPTOMA Official

fischkai said:


> Dear community,
> 
> sorry to bother you. I am an unexperienced owner of the uhz65 ust. So hopefully you don't mind my questions.
> 
> - Quote: "Dynamic black is like the previous firmware, still red tint but with -1 bias on red it looks far better and contrast too."
> 
> What do I have to do to have less red in my picture? Is the picture really that bad?
> 
> - Is it already a good idea to update to firmware 15.5?
> 
> - Do I need a HLG to HDR conversion? Or is it only important if I am an owner of a Sky receiver?
> 
> - Is the problem fixed with 15.5 that the picture gets darker from time to time when I am playing HDR content? That really bothers me. Support in germany told me to disable "puremotion".
> 
> @OPTOMA Official: When I install the 15.5 firmware knowing that it disables HDMI 2.0 on port 3 is it like I am accepting the fact and it's not possible to return the device in the future?
> 
> Kind Regards
> Kai


Hi Kai, please see below.

1. DB is the same as the last build. We are still investigating the feedback provided. DB is a complicated mode as it mimics an Iris. Content is analyzed during playback, then adjusts are made based on the content. While changes may seem trivial, it takes time to evaluate, propose and then implement changes that will not have unintended side effects. Patience please.

2. Yes, recommended to upgrade to C15.5 UNLESS you are happy with C14.3. C15.5 does resolve some critical issues such as HDR workaround for Shield, Smart Home functionality via Optoma Connect restore, DDP improvements --- along with some minor fixes. I have posted a detailed version of the release notes (next post). 

3. In the US, HLG is practically non-existent (DIRECTV has some support), yes, more for European customers. Yes, I recommend converting HLG to HDR if you are using a Sky Receiver. Sadly, haven't seen any end user converters (lots of commercial converters).

4. Picture becomes darker from time to time? Elaborate a little please? 

As I explained earlier, DB will adjust based on the content. With DB on? Does it become darker during a scene that is dark or dark during a scene that should not be dark?

5. For Port 3 -- we will announce (next week) a solution for those who want to maintain support for HDMI 2.0 EDID on port 3.


----------



## OPTOMA Official

We realize that reading the Release Notes via the dialog box when performing the OTA upgrade is not ideal -- Please see the Full Detailed Release Notes below. 

*Questions, feel free to ask. Please remember that we will address the HDMI Port 3 EDID set to 1.4 next week**

*Release Notes (Full) C15.5

CinemaX P1 FW Upgrade*
February 17th, 2021

*Versions:*
System FW: C15.5
DDP: C21
MCU: C12

*1.* *Improvements to Media Player Functionality*
a. Remove slideshow dialog box during playback.
b. Add video playback subtitle feature.

*2. New Feature: Screen Saver*
a. Screensaver will activate after user specified periods of inactivity (3 min, 5 min, 10 min, and 15 min). To manage the screensaver feature, from the Home Screen (Launcher), go to “Settings > 
b. Personalize > Screen Saver”.

*3.* *Resolve Bluetooth Remote Control issue after using Bluetooth Audio/Speaker*
a. After disconnecting Bluetooth Audio/Speaker, Bluetooth Remote Control will auto-connect to the projector. Previously, the Remote Control would not auto-connect, requiring the user to 
manually connect the Bluetooth Remote. This only applies if the Remote was being used in Bluetooth mode. IR mode is NOT affected.

*4.* *Resolve Soundbar (audio) set to mute on power on of Projector*
a. If projector is powered off with Soundbar audio set to “mute”, the Soundbar will NOT be set to mute when the projector is powered on. Previously, powering off the projector with the Soundbar set to mute would result in the Soundbar set to mute on next power on cycle.

*5.* *Factory Reset of projector (reset all settings option in OSD) will now reset the Laser Eye Protection Feature

6. Resolve Green tint with some dark/black tones when Enhanced Gaming Mode is enabled*
a. Green Tint is no longer present on some dark/black tones when using Enhanced Gaming Mode.

*7. Nvidia Shield and Shield Pro HDR “Workaround”*
a. Shield and Shield Pro use a different HDR flag than other popular source devices on the market. This resulted in HDR appearing to be active (display mode is set to HDR and HDR Picture Modes are available) yet was not fully active when HDR metadata was detected. Workaround has been implemented to recognize Shield and Shield Pro HDR Flag, resulting in HDR functioning as expected.

*8.* *HDMI Port 3 set to EDID 1.4*
a. Due to various compatibility issues with marginal or poorly constructed cables, HDMI Port 3 (side port) is now set to EDID 1.4 (HDMI 1.4) ONLY. While we realize this is not ideal for some, it is the best solution to a complicated issue with some third-party products. HDMI 1 and HDMI 2 remained changed – support HDMI 2.0 EDID.

*9.* *Restore Optoma Connect Functionality*
Optoma Connect Smart Home is now fully functional resolving an issue where the App (projector side) would crash upon launch. Optoma Connect can now be used to setup Alexa Smart Home and Custom Skill and Google Action (Home/Assistant).


----------



## OPTOMA Official

Mick Seymour said:


> That's horrible. Is it HD or UHD?
> 
> I'm trying to get some examples of banding/posterization issues on my UHZ65UST so I can send them to support. From what I've read here in the past, it could be a colour wheel problem.


Do you have images to view? I would like to take a look. 

Source device? Resolution? Content - streaming or disk? Of course, name of content?

Some slight banding, depending on content AND player, can be normal. We have verified this by evaluating many competing products and TVs (of course there are many variables) -- YET excessive banding is not normal.

Yes, a bad color wheel can create severe banding, uniformity issues with dark scenes, poor color, etc.


----------



## OPTOMA Official

oneil50 said:


> Ok I did more test this morning.
> No more green tint and cropping with Gaming mode but on the rapid horizontal movements of the camera over a very bright area, we can see a slight split screen in the middle of the image. It does not bother but it is visible.
> HDR on Shield TV is 100% solved.
> Dynamic black is like the previous firmware, still red tint but with -1 bias on red it looks far better and contrast too.
> 
> But I encounter the same issue as before : I have a pioneer amp between my Shield and the optoma and when I'm using 4k 60hz 10 bit HDR ready, I tick option to match the color space (otherwise SDR look washed). My menus are therefore in SDR and when I launch HDR content, the projector goes to load the parameters but displays a gray screen for 2 seconds which causes the Shield application to crash and therefore returns to SDR on the main menu of the shield. If I do this same manipulation in 12 bit instead of 10, I have no issue.
> However in 12 bit sometimes, the projector does not switch to HDR and remains in SDR.
> If I test directly on HDMI of the optoma, I have no problem. Got no issue with BD player, Zidoo and Xbox, only with android Box.
> Any Ideas ? Is this EDID problem ?
> 
> Since Firmware 15.5, 1080p and 4k (24hz) movies looks less fluid than before (3: 2 pulldown). No problem in 3D just in 2D. Am I the only one to notice this or am I the one hallucinating ?


Are you selecting match Color Space or match Dynamic Range?

For the Shield 12 bit issue -- I use and test in 12 bit 4:2:2 all time. What app on Shield TV? What content? Cable Length (this is real factor -- signal attenuation will prevent the change from SDR to HDR). 12-bit issue occurs with the Color Space setting enable or disable?

Could be EDID, could signal degradation, Color Space mismatch, and more. Since the issue does not occur when connected directly, we are left with AVR compatibility issue or cable issue. To help determine if cable is the issue, we can send a few of our 4K Cables -- if they work -- this is your baseline. If not, we know that we need to evaluate the AVR.


----------



## OPTOMA Official

Kev1000000 said:


> What I would love to know is if this color banding/blotchyness is a software or hardware issue. I've heard both claimed. To me, this 100% looks software related but would love to hear from Optoma on this issue. It's really my biggest overall complaint of this projector.


These are "hot spots" (as I like to call them). Oddly, we have seen this primarily with SDR content yet you are using HDR content.

All of this was live/broadcast content (TV, Cable or Satellite)? This can often happen with poorly compressed streams (low bandwidth). Have you seen this with "high quality" content from a 4K UHD HDR Blu-ray Disk?

Dynamic Black on?

Can you please turn off DB and reduce to 50% power -- then lower Brilliant Color to below 5 (try 1 through 4).


----------



## OPTOMA Official

Christian Spiga said:


> Hey, first of all stop to answer in "Politician Style" if you want to be helpful.
> 
> Now i refresh your memory.
> 
> In October 2019 i buy the UHZ65UST that was selled as 55ms latency. First reviews, every where, have a result of 170ms latency, MORE THAN 3 TIMES of the specifications.
> Optoma said, we will solve in the next firmware upgrade.
> So, what can do someone that spend € 3.299, wait? or send back?
> I decide to wait because Optoma WAS a BIG brand in the projectors world, the time goes, i cannot give back the projector after more than 30 days, i didn't already know but i was fu**ed!
> 
> August 2020.......10 MONTHS LATER, 10, not 1 or 2 or 3, TEN!
> Go out the 14.3, all here were super happy, finally a Game Mode, and for me 72ms was kind of acceptable.
> I activate the Game Mode and.....BANG, all the image not centered in my screen, € 1.299 Elite Screeen CLR trash on the WC in Game Mode, with plus a nice Green Tint.
> And i'm talking only about the Game Mode, because the 14.3 had also a lot of other bugs.
> 
> February 2021......6 MONTHS LATER, 6, not 1 or 2 or 3, SIX!
> You go out with this update that in the end, only remove the green tint, that don't solve the EDID problems, and that downgrade an HDMI port only because only god know what kind of cheapest chipset you use for that.
> You pretend nothing has happened about the HLG question that is really serious, but you are proud that wil work using the horrible integrated Media Player.
> Dynamic Black don't work properly and you said that is not easy to fix like push a switch, but is passed 1,5 year since the projector is selled, and probably 2 years and more since was developed.
> 
> And in the end, for the respect of the people that really soffer about, don't nominate the Corona as a justification for all these delay, because i tell you again, if there is something that must be delayed is OUR WARRANTY.



1. Image NOT center? Is the image still NOT center? This generally is not a software/firmware problem.

2. The update includes more than the Green Tint Fix. Please see the Full Release Notes posted just a few minutes ago.

3. What EDID problems. Please provide an example? Source Player?

4. HDMI Port 3 -- Yes, due to feedback from many customers on use of the port, this was the best course of action. We WILL provide a solution update next week. While it may seem trivial, the HDMI Port 3 warranted some action -- to set a reasonable expectation of what will and not work on the port. Yes, we apologize and realize it is not ideal, yet we needed to address the issues (regardless).

5. HLG - We are not ignoring question -- the supported is limited to USB Playback. HDMI Playback cannot be supported.


----------



## OPTOMA Official

Roger92 said:


> Dynamic black stopped working on mine. Had to do a full reset to get it back working


Hello -- do you see a difference in picture if you change between the DB modes?

*Reset Display Mode Settings:* Press the menu button the remote > Image Settings > Scroll down to "Reset"

If this does not work, please try...

*Factory Reset: *From the Launcher (Home Screen) > Settings > System > Reset > Reset to Default.

***Factory Reset will WIPE all settings -- if calibrated, please capture your settings first*


----------



## OPTOMA Official

maverick87r said:


> Updated to the latest and seeing some color banding with some of the colors still. Anyone have issues like that? Running Apple TV 4K.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


When you have some time, details on the issue you are existing with banding please.  

Service and Content (playback)? Resolution? Bit Depth?

Match Dynamic Range, on or off (we recommend off as on will force Dolby Vision if the content supports Dolby Vision -- incorrect bit depth will be used and poor color and some banding will occur).


----------



## OPTOMA Official

OPTOMA Official said:


> Hello -- Sorry to hear about the issues you are experiencing.
> 
> 1. Checked this over the weekend, FOTA and USB Upgrade testing did not reveal any issues with audio or the power button on the remote and or unit becoming unresponsive.
> 
> 2. After the Upgrade to C15.5, have you performed a Factory Reset? While not always ideal, often FOTA (Firmware Over The Air) can result in some configuration issues. A factory reset will clear all buffers and other configuration data.
> 
> 3. If willing, would like to have you try the USB Upgrade version of the FW. This version will install the Upgrade outside of the OS. This WILL result in a factory reset. If you have specific settings you need to restore, please capture them BEFORE using the USB Version of the Upgrade. This version is for Upgrade "from" C15.4/C15.5 to C15.5 ONLY. It will NOT work with any build prior to C15.x (example: C14.3).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CinemaX_P1_C15.5_DDP_C21_MCU_C12_Upgrade_C15.4_To_C15.5_Only.zip
> 
> 
> Shared with Dropbox
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.dropbox.com


Did this resolve your issue? Please -- let me know.


----------



## OPTOMA Official

*Denon AVR-X4700H 4K HDMI 2.1 AVR Update*

1. Denon AVR-X4700H -- is currently in debug.
2. Debug is a bit complicated, yet progress is being made.
3. We WILL keep everyone posted.

In the meantime, please remember that CinemaX P1 supports HDMI ARC (Port 1). ARC is a decent workaround (yes, not ideal for everyone) until this issue can be addressed.


----------



## oneil50

OPTOMA Official said:


> Are you selecting match Color Space or match Dynamic Range?


As you can see in the vidéo its color space rec 709 and rec 2020. If I check : color are great. If I uncheck, color are washed with SDR menu and content.



OPTOMA Official said:


> For the Shield 12 bit issue -- I use and test in 12 bit 4:2:2 all time. What app on Shield TV? What content? Cable Length (this is real factor -- signal attenuation will prevent the change from SDR to HDR). 12-bit issue occurs with the Color Space setting enable or disable?


The video was only on 10 bit. If I set 12 bit, check or uncheck this case works perfectly, but sometimes projector stay in SDR while playing HDR content 1/4 times. It never do that in 10 bit.
I tried with FireTV 4K and it's exactly the same issue. This issue are on all app : Netlix, Prime Video, Kodi, Plex....



OPTOMA Official said:


> Could be EDID, could signal degradation, Color Space mismatch, and more. Since the issue does not occur when connected directly, we are left with AVR compatibility issue or cable issue. To help determine if cable is the issue, we can send a few of our 4K Cables -- if they work -- this is your baseline. If not, we know that we need to evaluate the AVR.


I tried many cable and same issue. I'm currently using full 18Gbit/s HDMI. With the same HDMI cable, I got no problem with Xbox One S, My panasonic UB400 and Zidoo X9S. It's only on newest Android TV BOX. And before with the same power amp, and my Benq HT3550, no problem too.
Conversely, if I plug shield TV or Fire TV directly on HDMI of the projector, everything is fine. I don't understand why with all other source there is no problem but with Box TV there is.

You can see my own video : New video
Menu are in French but you can easily see all option. I tried two times for proove it's working perfectly if case is uncheck.
You can see at the end end of video, when projector come back to SDR, a SPLIT screen for 1 sec.
Unfortunately it's frequent and same when projector switch from 4K to 3D mode.


----------



## fischkai

@OPTOMA Official:


OPTOMA Official said:


> Hi Kai, please see below.
> 
> 4. Picture becomes darker from time to time? Elaborate a little please?


Please contact the german support team. I sent them two example videos.
Contact:
MC&S Medical Care & Support GmbH
Joachim Quast / After Sales Service
Tel. +49 (0)2173 39989-24

If they do not remember the problem, I can provide you with the videos as well.

Best Regards
Kai


----------



## Roger92

My biggest issue is that dynamic black when is selected is not working after a certain period. I have to reset the projector to have it functional again losing all the settings.


----------



## Jan L

Just want to share some positive vibes.

All updates worked fine, getting more and more Happy with it. ColorBanding/DB issues I always had so much pain with, are almost not noticeable anymore, so acceptable. Still my custom settings, with default its wayo worse but that a bad color setting leads to bad colors and shifts is obvious.
No smartfit needed with the help of furniture aligning tools. (Dont Know the Englisch Name) 
on Amazon Germany its called "Möbelfuss GOLF III Ø 50 mm Gleitfuss Bodengleiter Sockelfuss Möbelgleiter schwarz verstellbar von SO-TECH"

Denon, shield, hue sync in between, uhz65ust


----------



## Roger92

Jan L said:


> Just want to share some positive vibes.
> 
> All updates worked fine, getting more and more Happy with it. ColorBanding/DB issues I always had so much pain with, are almost not noticeable anymore, so acceptable. Still my custom settings, with default its wayo worse but that a bad color setting leads to bad colors and shifts is obvious.
> No smartfit needed with the help of furniture aligning tools. (Dont Know the Englisch Name)
> on Amazon Germany its called "Möbelfuss GOLF III Ø 50 mm Gleitfuss Bodengleiter Sockelfuss Möbelgleiter schwarz verstellbar von SO-TECH"
> 
> Denon, shield, hue sync in between, uhz65ust


I have to agree. The color banding is minimal and the global picture is great. Only issue still pending for me is dynamic black not working after a certain period of time And colors shifting when switching from a HDR program to a SDR program.


----------



## eedwards86

Any progress on HDMI dropout and connection issues (possible EDID handshake)? That’s been my biggest headache.


----------



## Roger92

OPTOMA Official said:


> Hello -- do you see a difference in picture if you change between the DB modes?
> 
> *Reset Display Mode Settings:* Press the menu button the remote > Image Settings > Scroll down to "Reset"
> 
> If this does not work, please try...
> 
> *Factory Reset: *From the Launcher (Home Screen) > Settings > System > Reset > Reset to Default.
> 
> ***Factory Reset will WIPE all settings -- if calibrated, please capture your settings first*


 When I reset DB is working again but the next day it is again not working anymore with no change in picture . Was working fine with the old firmware.


----------



## smajumdar

If there are any optoma reps here please give me a number or address where i can return this piece of crap projector. Everytime you send a firmware update it messes the whole system. I cant even use the shut down button (both remote and button on projector sont respond) for god sake. All image setting says error. You morons do you think this is a joke where you price a 3+k projector and have **** uploaded like this. 
shame on you and ur pathetic software and release engineers. This is last time i spend a single dime on ur stupid projectors.


----------



## Roger92

is it possible to get back to original firmware ?


----------



## Mick Seymour

smajumdar said:


> I cant even use the shut down button (both remote and button on projector sont respond) for god sake. All image setting says error.


I had the same problems with firmware C15.4 and logged it with support. In my case it was related to muting the PJ speaker then powering off and trying to unmute the PJ next time it was powered on, which it wouldn't do without another reboot or two.

Support referred me to firmware C15.5 which had just been released. I've not had the problem since but as it was intermittent, it may still exist.


----------



## Christian Spiga

After some days of test i can finally say:

After sending to support:


Color Banding is solved.
Now both the upper corners are focused.

After Updating to 15.5:


Dynamic Black work good
Picture quality is generally better.

Not solved:

Sometime the speaker is still mute, only turn off/on solve the problem
With my Xbox Series X when i play an HDR content and i come back to SDR main screen, the image is completely dark, i need to switch between modes (User/Cinema) to go back to normal.
If i use Game Mode, sometime during playing a game the screen become completely black for some seconds and than the image come back.
Without Game Mode, looking an HDR content, sometime the image is dimmed differently, is perfectly divided in the middle left part is less bright than the right.
Still problems of EDID, with snow for 10 sec, or the typical logo that tell you that nothing is connected.
If i use the HDR calibration utility of the Xbox, the final result is a washed image.

To be clear, most of the problems are with my Xbox Series X, can be also a problem of the chipset Hdmi 2.1 of the console. Is not a cable problem, tested different models.


----------



## Roger92

Good ! Yesterday I watched a movie with lots of dark scenes and was surprise that the Dynamic black was working again....in fact black levels were very good and overall the picture was great. On some programs very limited color bending but not justifying to send it back to service for now.


----------



## Kdub69

Has anyone connected a ps5 via avr reciever to the optoma p1? I’m having hdmi issues it was all good with ps4 but does not work with ps5 tried 4 cables... any fixes? It works when I connect directly to optoma p1 but via recevier I just hear the music and can’t see anything


----------



## Mick Seymour

Mick Seymour said:


> I'm trying to get some examples of banding/posterization issues on my UHZ65UST so I can send them to support. From what I've read here in the past, it could be a colour wheel problem.





OPTOMA Official said:


> Do you have images to view? I would like to take a look.
> 
> Source device? Resolution? Content - streaming or disk? Of course, name of content?
> 
> Some slight banding, depending on content AND player, can be normal. We have verified this by evaluating many competing products and TVs (of course there are many variables) -- YET excessive banding is not normal.
> 
> Yes, a bad color wheel can create severe banding, uniformity issues with dark scenes, poor color, etc.


Sorry its taken some time. Device is a UK ZGemma Enigma 2 satellite box and content is BBC One HD Pointless in 1080i/50, something I watch every day. I've had the PJ since last July and the problem only started about 3 months ago. Maybe the BBC changed their compression?

It looks like C15.5 and a full calibration has resolved the problem, which prior to both was excessive where there was shadow detail on a magenta background. All other solid colours used on the program set were fine, as are DVD & Blu-ray playback. Setting the PJ back to pre-calibration settings on the same material, it is nowhere near as bad as it was prior to the new firmware.

I'm also happy to report that the new firmware fixed the muting problem I had where if I muted the PJ then turned it off it wouldn't normally unmute without a reboot (or two!). Now, it comes on with the audio unmuted, which is fine.

All I need now is an automatic method to select the HDMI port to be used from my Harmony 900. Home > Right a number of times isn't family friendly. When I first received the PJ, CEC took care of that but it hasn't worked since C12 I think.


----------



## Kdub69

Can someone list the best hdmi cables tk resolve the handshake issues? Been connecting my ps4 its fine, shield is fine now, but now I got a ps5 and I am having handshake issues. Everything is connected to my denon receiver avr-s950h. I heard about the hdfrury but that seems like a pricey fix?


----------



## aohus

Unfortunate that dynamic black does not stick. It dims after you leave the menu. It used to brighten the picture but then dims after a few seconds. Has always been an issue for all firmware versions. I'm on 15.5


----------



## Jan L

aohus said:


> Unfortunate that dynamic black does not stick. It dims after you leave the menu. It used to brighten the picture but then dims after a few seconds. Has always been an issue for all firmware versions. I'm on 15.5


I still doubt thats a Bug, but I wish it to be one. As soon as you leave the Menu, it will adjust to the content. I agree that it looks pretty bright and black Level still look good in that boosted mode. Maybe they should add a contrast improved mode without dimming  or a DB you can set freely within a range of 50-100% brightness.


----------



## Kdub69

Kdub69 said:


> Has anyone connected a ps5 via avr reciever to the optoma p1? I’m having hdmi issues it was all good with ps4 but does not work with ps5 tried 4 cables... any fixes? It works when I connect directly to optoma p1 but via recevier I just hear the music and can’t see anything


i take this back it seems like its a bug with the ps5 and it will get patches in March!


----------



## yknottavs

After 4 weeks at the service center I was informed that my UHZ65UST is still not repaired after the failed fw update and I'm expected to wait another 4 weeks for spare parts to arrive. No explanation on what broke or what went wrong in the first place.
A request for a replacement unit for the remaining time until my unit finally gets fixed simply got ignored.

@Optoma, if you call that customer satisfaction then you have a long way ahead of you...

I'd really like to escalate this case but Optoma doesn't seem to have a place to make such reports.


----------



## oneil50

Seriously i'm really fed up....
Too many bug since the 15.5 firmware :
Split screen randomly at startup, Split screen sometimes while enter in 3D mode, Split screen on gaming mode while scrolling fast, Split screen while come back from 3D mode....
This night, bug after playing a 3D movie : image flickering + hard sound like buzzer from VP and can't shut down. Have to unplug it ! 
I think I'll buy the Vava and go to RMA again and again for pressure to get back my money. This is really *******.


----------



## Roger92

Again tonight dynamic black stopped working. Had to perform a Full reset. After reset I had a line in the middle of the picture/screen. Definitively the software in this projector is not performing as it should. Very disapointing.


----------



## Satriales1

Hello. I was watching my projector at the weekend when there was a sudden power cut to my home. Once the projector had booted up there is no sound and I am unable to reconnect my Sonos beam to the Otoma via HDMI. The projector keeps showing the EDID message, and the Sonos say it cant connect and need to switch on the TV audio out.

Has anyone else experieed this issue and know how to fix it? Everything was working fine before but losing power seems to have caused an issue. Thanks.


----------



## Christian Spiga

In the end....nothing changed.


----------



## th8ter

OPTOMA Official said:


> Hi Everyone,
> 
> Thank you for taking the time to bring these issues to our attention.
> 
> At Optoma, we strive to put customer needs and user experience at the centre of everything we do and believe these are the reasons we have managed to build a strong customer base who return to our products time after time.
> 
> It is clear from the feedback over the past few months that we have fallen short of meeting these expectations and we sincerely apologise for this.
> 
> As a result, we have listened and have taken action by starting to restructure our support operations.
> 
> In addition, we will now be active on this forum and will be available for any issues that may arise going forward, as well as keeping you regularly updated on bug fixes for the P1. These fixes will come in parts and we will keep you updated on release dates.
> 
> We find that with fixes it is important that the projector does not turn off halfway through the update process. The update will happen automatically as long as the function has not been disabled within the menu system. We will also make fixes available on our website for you to download to a USB and use within the service slot.
> 
> Where we currently are with P1 fixes:
> 
> First bug fixes to come:
> 
> Improve media app functionality
> Auto reconnecting the Bluetooth Remote Control when remote Bluetooth speaker is disconnected
> Internal speaker muted when the projector is turned off, when it is powered on the speakers will not unmute
> Fix eye protection function – this will now stay on at all times
> Green tint on gaming mode is now fixed
> Additional new function: screensaver
> We are currently working on other items raised to our service team and also within this forum, which, as stated we will share information on soon.
> 
> We assure you that we are treating this very seriously and we feel very privileged to have such a passionate and loyal customer base. We do not take this for granted. Our entire organisation wants nothing more than for you to feel that you made the right choice when you chose an Optoma projector.
> 
> Kind regards
> The Optoma Team


One big item I do not see on your list is the HDMI handshake issues. I can't even watch anything on mine for the 20-30 mins it takes for the handshake issues to resolve and yes I said minutes not seconds. It is so embarrassing when we have friends over and try to watch anything on the P1. I have called support about 3 times and all they want to do is blame it on the Denon receiver, but if you connect another source such as TV it works perfectly. I have tried 7 different HDMI cables with no luck.


----------



## Kdub69

th8ter said:


> One big item I do not see on your list is the HDMI handshake issues. I can't even watch anything on mine for the 20-30 mins it takes for the handshake issues to resolve and yes I said minutes not seconds. It is so embarrassing when we have friends over and try to watch anything on the P1. I have called support about 3 times and all they want to do is blame it on the Denon receiver, but if you connect another source such as TV it works perfectly. I have tried 7 different HDMI cables with no luck.


I finally tried the fiber hdmi cable and it fixed 99% of my issues give it a try it finally worked I went through like 15 hdmi cables before that


----------



## Christian Spiga

It look like a story that i already see moonths ago with "Optoma Dude", that after the firmware update completely disappear. Now are 13d since the last post of "OPTOMA Official". There are people in trouble, people that have questions, nobody answer.

By the way, someone of you connect the UHZ65UST to the Xbox Series X ? You also have problem of handshaking when the console turn on or go in HDR mode?
What kind of Color you use in the preference, Standard or RGB ? What are you favorite image settings.

Right now i'm projecting on the white wall, because......ahahahhah.......with the game mode is impossible for me to use the screen.

Thanks


----------



## yknottavs

Christian Spiga said:


> By the way, someone of you connect the UHZ65UST to the Xbox Series X ? You also have problem of handshaking when the console turn on or go in HDR mode?


My unit is still out for repair so I can't test anything, but I noticed that sometimes the screen would stay black when switching to and from HDR.
Also sometimes the screen would be way too dark in the menu after switching back.


----------



## Christian Spiga

yknottavs said:


> My unit is still out for repair so I can't test anything, but I noticed that sometimes the screen would stay black when switching to and from HDR.
> Also sometimes the screen would be way too dark in the menu after switching back.


Exactly the same.
Is still like this also with the new firmware!


----------



## oneil50

I bought HD fury arcana for trying to resolve EDID problem and perhaps my split screen. There is no problem when shield is plug in hdmi of projector but my own management's, shield is on Pioneer amp.

Example problem :
-When I power on my shield TV, first image from VP is 480p image for 1 second then short black screen, 2nd image 2160p 60hz but color looks yellow, new black screen, and then correct image. Sometimes 3 -4 black screen to get the right image. I think with these many switch between color and resolution it does more permanent split screen.
-Sometimes when I stop HDR movie, shield comes back to SDR but projector doesn't so color looks oversaturated.
-Can't look HDR when I'm using 10bit and tick for rec709 correct for rec2020 color. Have to tick off for working but color SDR are washed.

I will check tomorrow with arcana if something change or no.
Arcana cost 229EUR, it's really an investment, but we can't wait for optoma to resolve it, they are far away from us. I think we have to find solution by our own, it will be faster.

Obviously I could connect shield to hdmi in arcana and connect arcana to VP for image and using second hdmi out of arcana for earc to power amp.


----------



## oneil50

I receive my HDfury Arcana. 
First I remind before the P1, my last VP was Benq HT3550, with the same managment I met 0 issue about Edid and color matching.
I have the same problem than lot of people :
1 - sometimes VP didn't go back to SDR when HDR content is stopped, so SDR looks oversaturated (all device except BD player)
2 - EDID problem : Video (only Shield TV and Fire TV too)
3 - Many black screen at startup for EDID to get good image setting. (Shield TV is the worse)
4 - Split screen when many siwtch EDID and scaling hdmi.

This is my managment :








When HDfury is add on my setup, issue 1, 2 and 3 are totally solved. I did more than 50 content matching SDR/HDR, Optoma never fail to go in HDR and come back to SDR normally. Before, maybe 1/3 times he never comes back to SDR.
Split screen issue is still here and appear sometimes randomly but mostly while switching from 4K to 3D mode.
Shield TV EDID and color matching issue are solved but randomly, optoma got lost of signal and flickering only with shield TV. Maybe I used a bad HDMI cable for this test. 

At the end of this test, I think it's really an Optoma P1 issue on EDID setup. HDFury is scaling instead of projector and there is no problem. Without HDfury there is many issue. 
It's like timing delay fail when EDID signal is send. I don't know why but sometimes Projector don't recognize or don't receive EDID signal matching when we use a power Amp.

So in fact, I will return my HDFury to get my money back and buy a cheaper EDID switch because Arcana is a high end prodcut used for eArc. Do you have a model to advise ?


----------



## XFr123

joker2005 said:


> Sky UHD HDR ,Vertex2 translate HLG to HDR


Can you share your settings on the Vertex2 for the HLG to HDR10 conversion with sky Q?


----------



## Kdub69

oneil50 said:


> I receive my HDfury Arcana.
> First I remind before the P1, my last VP was Benq HT3550, with the same managment I met 0 issue about Edid and color matching.
> I have the same problem than lot of people :
> 1 - sometimes VP didn't go back to SDR when HDR content is stopped, so SDR looks oversaturated (all device except BD player)
> 2 - EDID problem : Video (only Shield TV and Fire TV too)
> 3 - Many black screen at startup for EDID to get good image setting. (Shield TV is the worse)
> 4 - Split screen when many siwtch EDID and scaling hdmi.
> 
> This is my managment :
> View attachment 3110513
> 
> When HDfury is add on my setup, issue 1, 2 and 3 are totally solved. I did more than 50 content matching SDR/HDR, Optoma never fail to go in HDR and come back to SDR normally. Before, maybe 1/3 times he never comes back to SDR.
> Split screen issue is still here and appear sometimes randomly but mostly while switching from 4K to 3D mode.
> Shield TV EDID and color matching issue are solved but randomly, optoma got lost of signal and flickering only with shield TV. Maybe I used a bad HDMI cable for this test.
> 
> At the end of this test, I think it's really an Optoma P1 issue on EDID setup. HDFury is scaling instead of projector and there is no problem. Without HDfury there is many issue.
> It's like timing delay fail when EDID signal is send. I don't know why but sometimes Projector don't recognize or don't receive EDID signal matching when we use a power Amp.
> 
> So in fact, I will return my HDFury to get my money back and buy a cheaper EDID switch because Arcana is a high end prodcut used for eArc. Do you have a model to advise ?


thanks for the info so hdfury fixed all the issues? If you find a better edid switch please post it and let me know also looking!


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

oneil50 said:


> So in fact, I will return my HDFury to get my money back and buy a cheaper EDID switch because Arcana is a high end prodcut used for eArc. Do you have a model to advise ?


One other thing to consider with the HDFury Arcana is it allows using Dolby Vision (LLDV) where you can set the luminance level (I have mine set at 600 nits). This effectively turns the projector into one that can accept a Dolby Vision signal with dynamic metadata rather than only accepting HDR with static metadata. For me alone that was worth the cost of the HDFury as I also do not use the eARC feature it also provides.


----------



## oneil50

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> One other thing to consider with the HDFury Arcana is it allows using Dolby Vision (LLDV) where you can set the luminance level (I have mine set at 600 nits). This effectively turns the projector into one that can accept a Dolby Vision signal with dynamic metadata rather than only accepting HDR with static metadata. For me alone that was worth the cost of the HDFury as I also do not use the eARC feature it also provides.


Yes but I didn't try because on a projector with brightness and color limitation I think it's not useful. Maybe I'm wrong. 
But at the moment most important for me is to find edid stability with this buggy projector. 
So I will order new edid manager for 22EUR supporting 4k @60hz. I will report about this product soon.


----------



## Spekuloos

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> One other thing to consider with the HDFury Arcana is it allows using Dolby Vision (LLDV) where you can set the luminance level (I have mine set at 600 nits). This effectively turns the projector into one that can accept a Dolby Vision signal with dynamic metadata rather than only accepting HDR with static metadata. For me alone that was worth the cost of the HDFury as I also do not use the eARC feature it also provides.


I was in contact with HD Fury and they told me that it was not worth getting it for that feature alone, so I understood that the visual impact isn't that noticeable. 

Did you see that much of an improvement compared to HDR10?


----------



## Kdub69

oneil50 said:


> Yes but I didn't try because on a projector with brightness and color limitation I think it's not useful. Maybe I'm wrong.
> But at the moment most important for me is to find edid stability with this buggy projector.
> So I will order new edid manager for 22EUR supporting 4k @60hz. I will report about this product soon.


Looking forward to this report I want to buy one also but not sure what kind and if it fixes the problem!


----------



## th8ter

Kdub69 said:


> I finally tried the fiber hdmi cable and it fixed 99% of my issues give it a try it finally worked I went through like 15 hdmi cables before that


Thank you I will give that a try.


----------



## legnaz

Why would you guys buy another product to fix the issues from the current product when Optoma should have done so. A class action lawsuit should be filed. This company is a joke.


----------



## th8ter

legnaz said:


> Why would you guys buy another product to fix the issues from the current product when Optoma should have done so. A class action lawsuit should be filed. This company is a joke.


I agree but right now mine is all but unusable.


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

Spekuloos said:


> Did you see that much of an improvement compared to HDR10?


It depends on the content but in general I would say yes there are improvements, though like everything it’s only really noticeable on side by side comparisons. For example I had my projector calibrated and only when I switched the picture preset between calibrated vs non calibrated did I see what a difference it made. There is a huge thread on the Dolby vision trick here: Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on Projectors? Yes! For me on a projector that cost the amount it did, spending 150 dollars on the HDFury to get even a tiny improvement is worthwhile.


----------



## oneil50

legnaz said:


> Why would you guys buy another product to fix the issues from the current product when Optoma should have done so. A class action lawsuit should be filed. This company is a joke.


Optoma did not live up to our expectations for updates. We reported the various problems but with an update every 6 months, we are not ready to have a well optimized product.
So we have to resolve it by our own. 
I made a big investment for this model in order to have a quality product, I cannot afford to pay another large sum to resolve these concerns.
By the way Optima should repair these issue but it is unfortunately not the case.

No news from optoma official.... at the height of their update development service.


----------



## maverick87r

OPTOMA Official said:


> When you have some time, details on the issue you are existing with banding please.
> 
> Service and Content (playback)? Resolution? Bit Depth?
> 
> Match Dynamic Range, on or off (we recommend off as on will force Dolby Vision if the content supports Dolby Vision -- incorrect bit depth will be used and poor color and some banding will occur).


There’s banding on faces and some skies where there are gradients.

Match dynamic range is off
Content is hotel Transylvania 3 and even the Home Screen icons on the Apple TV have some banding
Resolution is 2160p @24hz
Bit depth 12 bit & 4.2.2
App is Apple TV app











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## th8ter

Kdub69 said:


> I finally tried the fiber hdmi cable and it fixed 99% of my issues give it a try it finally worked I went through like 15 hdmi cables before that


What Brand of fiber cable worked for you?


----------



## Kdub69

th8ter said:


> What Brand of fiber cable worked for you?


*AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Fiber Optic Cable (18 Gpbs - 4k/60Hz) - 30-Foot
Please note that it still drops connection once in a while but its much better than before *


----------



## Christian Spiga

I wrote more than 1 times that we need that Optoma extend our warranty, because otherwise this will expire before they solve something.

Nobody of you did support my request, how you think that we can have something if only a person request something that we must have?

Continue to spend money to fix problems if you are happy like this.


----------



## eurovtec

Christian Spiga said:


> I wrote more than 1 times that we need that Optoma extend our warranty, because otherwise this will expire before they solve something.
> 
> Nobody of you did support my request, how you think that we can have something if only a person request something that we must have?
> 
> Continue to spend money to fix problems if you are happy like this.


I support your idea. 
The patience has ran out. 
We must spread the news about how Optoma marketed a flaw projector & cheated the consumer by proclaiming false news to sell the P1. And how Optoma discontinued P1 and push P2 to leave no product support. 
That’s how unscrupulous Optoma is.


----------



## namtech

maverick87r said:


> There’s banding on faces and some skies where there are gradients.
> 
> Match dynamic range is off
> Content is hotel Transylvania 3 and even the Home Screen icons on the Apple TV have some banding
> Resolution is 2160p @24hz
> Bit depth 12 bit & 4.2.2
> App is Apple TV app
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


i was fighting banding issues for ages with my P1, ultimately it was caused by the color wheel being out of phase. It was not caused by Software, Resolution, Bitrate, Chroma depth/settings, HDR/SDR whatever anything else.
Raise a ticket with Optoma support, they usually send you some gradient test picture to confirm a color wheel issue. Its a easy fix for them but you have to send your unit to service.


----------



## th8ter

Kdub69 said:


> *AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Fiber Optic Cable (18 Gpbs - 4k/60Hz) - 30-Foot
> Please note that it still drops connection once in a while but its much better than before *


Thanks!


----------



## Christian Spiga

namtech said:


> i was fighting banding issues for ages with my P1, ultimately it was caused by the color wheel being out of phase. It was not caused by Software, Resolution, Bitrate, Chroma depth/settings, HDR/SDR whatever anything else.
> Raise a ticket with Optoma support, they usually send you some gradient test picture to confirm a color wheel issue. Its a easy fix for them but you have to send your unit to service.


Go into the Service Menu:

Power Off - UP - DOWN - MENU (the 3 lines)

There is a rainbow pattern where you can see if you have a problem with the wheel or not.


----------



## Christian Spiga

maverick87r said:


> There’s banding on faces and some skies where there are gradients.
> 
> Match dynamic range is off
> Content is hotel Transylvania 3 and even the Home Screen icons on the Apple TV have some banding
> Resolution is 2160p @24hz
> Bit depth 12 bit & 4.2.2
> App is Apple TV app
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Go into the Service Menu:

Power Off - UP - DOWN - MENU (the 3 lines)

There is a rainbow pattern where you can see if you have a problem with the wheel or not.


----------



## Roger92

Would be great to compare pictures of these patterns from owners with color banding issues


----------



## namtech

Roger92 said:


> Would be great to compare pictures of these patterns from owners with color banding issues


Here is the history (pictures, videos etc) of my old banding issues with rootcause Color Wheel out of phase.









Optoma


Folder



1drv.ms


----------



## Roger92

Very helpful. I have some banding too but a bit less than yours. I understand it was totally fixed with the color wheel adjustment ?


----------



## Christian Spiga

Christian Spiga said:


> This is the “pixelation” that the other User was trying to explain.
> In the test pattern you can see perfectly


This Was my Color Bending before send to service.
When it come back, the image was perfect


----------



## namtech

Roger92 said:


> Very helpful. I have some banding too but a bit less than yours. I understand it was totally fixed with the color wheel adjustment ?


correct. Support completely fixed all banding in calibrating the color wheel (however they also replaced the laser unit as i had a problem with corner sharpness and the replaced engine was very noisy/loud so i gave up and switched to a P2 later)


----------



## dinesh26uk

So all of a sudden have lost the ability to power off via the remote and the main power switch.. I remember others having the issue previously. Just wondering if it was fixed?


----------



## Mick Seymour

dinesh26uk said:


> So all of a sudden have lost the ability to power off via the remote and the main power switch.. I remember others having the issue previously. Just wondering if it was fixed?


It was fixed for me in firmware C15.5. My workaround until that update was to switch to the Home screen, leave it for a minute and try a power off from there. It worked eventually like that.


----------



## dinesh26uk

Thanks! Might have to use the workaround. Have been on the new firmware so not sure why it's suddenly started now


Mick Seymour said:


> It was fixed for me in firmware C15.5. My workaround until that update was to switch to the Home screen, leave it for a minute and try a power off from there. It worked eventually like that.


----------



## Mick Seymour

Christian Spiga said:


> Go into the Service Menu:
> 
> Power Off - UP - DOWN - MENU (the 3 lines)
> 
> There is a rainbow pattern where you can see if you have a problem with the wheel or not.


This is mine.










It looks to me like there's a problem with the wheel. I had pixelation on magenta with shadow detail which I thought I'd got rid of after calibration but perhaps not. There looks like a problem at the green end too.


----------



## Christian Spiga

It looks to me like there's a problem with the wheel. I had pixelation on magenta with shadow detail which I thought I'd got rid of after calibration but perhaps not. There looks like a problem at the green end too.
[/QUOTE]

Yeah mine was similar but much more on the magenta.
After sending to support, was completely resolved and also the focus in the corners become perfect.


----------



## Mick Seymour

Thanks @Christian Spiga I've logged it with support.


----------



## hockey1980

dinesh26uk said:


> Thanks! Might have to use the workaround. Have been on the new firmware so not sure why it's suddenly started now


Hi Dinesh i get the projector power button malfunction (simultaneously on remote too) on the new firmware - maybe once a day.... i power off from mains, however will try Mick Seymour workaround/hack

Also get volume mute issue multiple times a day...... toggling HDMI inputs usually does the trick, else a reboot

For me too it was introduced by new firmware - one step forward, one step back. Sucks having it do these things in front of company - quite embarrassing


----------



## solal-

Kdub69 said:


> *AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Fiber Optic Cable (18 Gpbs - 4k/60Hz) - 30-Foot
> Please note that it still drops connection once in a while but its much better than before *


Take care with cheap (and even non cheap ?) fiber optic cable, I used one with my optoma and all my other cable are mush 8k cable (expensive one but best quality). Either with optical cable and mush I never had any disconnection. But one day my fiber optical cable seems to be broken, I've read on amazon review that many people using fiber cable have their optical cable suddenly became unusable and that's because the fiber/hdmi converter died, so I tough it was that but before changing the cable (he is hidden behind my wall so difficult to change) I tried to put it on an other HDMI port of my denon AMP, and in fact the cable was not broken but in fact that was the HDMI I port of my receiver that die. I think the hdmi port was burnt and get to much voltage, because usually when I plugged that cable it sparkle a lot and I got some little electric shock, lot more than with other hdmi cable I have. Then I re-read amazon review and it seems that happens to other user of fiber optical cable, so I look at review of most expensive one and find that even for expensive one some people have the same problem. So take care. I would like to know if other people is aware of this kind of issue and if there is brand / model of optical cable that can be trusted and avoid this problem ? I looked to hdmi surge protector but from what I read it's a bit useless. For the moment I use a classical cheap non-optical hdmi cable and still have no drop connection problem (I though I needed a 10meter cable that's why I buy an optical cable at first, then in fact an 6 meter cable was sufficient so no need for optical).


----------



## yknottavs

After 7 weeks my UHZ65UST finally came back from the customer service center, after the failed firmware update.
The repair notice says the Scaler-Board has been replaced. Not sure what exactly the Scaler-Board is, but I noticed that the serial number changed and the on-time counter is back to zero. So it must be something major.


----------



## smacrae1984

That’s positive. Bad you had to wait so long but hopefully it’s resolved.


----------



## ernest787

Has anyone experience a "dead pixel" on the P1?

I turned it on today and there is a white dot on the screen. I turned the P1 off and then cleaned the lens to make sure it wasn't dust or something. Turned it back on and it's still there.

I snapped a picture. The projector is on now and the dot has gotten smaller. I turned it off and on again but it's still there. 





  








20210324_132134.jpg




__
ernest787


__
Mar 24, 2021








Edit: after letting it sit a bit longer and then switching screens a few times it's now gone. I turned the projector off and back on just to see if it would come back but it seems to be completely gone now.


----------



## Roger92

You did the right thing. Each time I had a dead mirror on my previous projector as soon as I noticed it I switched on off several times and it got gone.


----------



## SebastienR.

ernest787 said:


> Has anyone experience a "dead pixel" on the P1?
> 
> I turned it on today and there is a white dot on the screen. I turned the P1 off and then cleaned the lens to make sure it wasn't dust or something. Turned it back on and it's still there.
> 
> I snapped a picture. The projector is on now and the dot has gotten smaller. I turned it off and on again but it's still there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 20210324_132134.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> ernest787
> 
> 
> __
> Mar 24, 2021
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: after letting it sit a bit longer and then switching screens a few times it's now gone. I turned the projector off and back on just to see if it would come back but it seems to be completely gone now.


Mine has been RMA'd for this very reason. At first the dot would come and go, so I didn't worry too much. Then it stayed... And a second one appeared that never went away. Both in the middle of the screen, very distracting. I'm afraid it's like cancer, as in it spreads. The DMD chip needs to be changed, that's the thing with all the micromirrors on.


----------



## ernest787

That's frustrating. I turned it on this morning and the white dot was back. It went away much quicker this time, but seems if the projector is off for a period of time this will come back. So it seems like my experience is probably going to be similar to yours @SebastienR. 

I was hoping to not have to send this in for service, but may have to reach out to Optoma.


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

ernest787 said:


> That's frustrating. I turned it on this morning and the white dot was back. It went away much quicker this time, but seems if the projector is off for a period of time this will come back. So it seems like my experience is probably going to be similar to yours @SebastienR.
> 
> I was hoping to not have to send this in for service, but may have to reach out to Optoma.


Also had the dreaded Dot on mine and had to RMA it. Took about 4 weeks to come back, the good news is they sent a brand new model back as a replacement.


----------



## ernest787

I just went ahead and sent an enquiry to Optoma regarding the issues. Not looking forward to having to send this in and be without the projector for a month but what can ya do


----------



## Christian Spiga

ernest787 said:


> I just went ahead and sent an enquiry to Optoma regarding the issues. Not looking forward to having to send this in and be without the projector for a month but what can ya do


Wait until you go in holiday somewhere, so you don't miss it.


----------



## ernest787

Just as an update, Optoma replied and asked that I do a factory reset. I did that and the dot is now gone. We will see how long it last

They did say if it doesn't work or comes back that I'll need to send it in for service.


----------



## oneil50

I bought another Edid manager @23eur on amazon. Conversely to Arcana from HDFury, it change nothing because I think when I set this product on "copy edid", it does a passthrough, it isn't repeat the edid message.
So at least : color are always randomly oversaturated when projector comes back to SDR.

I cannot test Nvidia shield because I sell it because too many Edid with my power amp.

At the moment, I'm using :

Xbox one S for VOD (allow HDR and Atmos on every VOD)
Panasonic UB400 for physical support.
Zidoo X9S for MKV/ISO rip. But I will receive a Zappiti with dual HDMI out (1 video and 1 audio)
I will try to connect hdmi video on projector and hdmi audio direct on power amp.


----------



## eurovtec

Updated Asia version of optoma p1.
Everything goes smoothly.
However, the worrisome part was driver upgrade after the firmware upgrade.
Theres no background music, only the temp and power light alternating on off.
Luckily took the pic of info msg prior to update driver that it takes 30mins.
After that projector able to boot up.

Again the MAIN PAIN is some videos, the brightness will vary when the scene changes.
Just need to observe the whiteness of the subtitles to notice this phenomenon.
Why can’t Optoma resolve this issue once and for all....
*SERIOUSLY .... WILL NEVER BUY ANY OPTOMA PRODUCTS AGAIN💩...😡*


----------



## oneil50

eurovtec said:


> Updated Asia version of optoma p1.
> Everything goes smoothly.
> However, the worrisome part was driver upgrade after the firmware upgrade.
> Theres no background music, only the temp and power light alternating on off.
> Luckily took the pic of info msg prior to update driver that it takes 30mins.
> After that projector able to boot up.
> 
> Again the MAIN PAIN is some videos, the brightness will vary when the scene changes.
> Just need to observe the whiteness of the subtitles to notice this phenomenon.
> Why can’t Optoma resolve this issue once and for all....
> *SERIOUSLY .... WILL NEVER BUY ANY OPTOMA PRODUCTS AGAIN💩...😡*


Dynamic black issue ?
Can you share firmware version ? 15.5 ?


----------



## seballos

Hi everyone,
I have a uhz65ust. Firmware is 15.5. Mostly, I use it hooked up via HDMI to my desktop PC, which has windows 10 with I7-3770k processor and GTX670 video card. For audio, I connected the optical output of the projector to my stereo integrated amplifier Rotel RA-12. Most of my movies are on a HDD connected to the PC, but I also have Netflix. I use VLC as media player.
The problem is that with this setup, I cannot view movies and tv shows in 4K HDR. 4K works fine, but I think the main issue is that the GTX670 has only HDMI 1.2 outputs. I have two other laptops (one windows, one Ubuntu) with 1.4 HDMI outputs but the issue remains. Also the Windows laptop basically crashes when I play 4K HDR movies.
I've tried to put the movies on a HDD and connect it directly to the projector, and the internal media player plays the movie in HDR (as told by projector info menu) but I have no audio. An error message to the tone of "Audio codec not recognized" appears most times.
I tried to use Optoma Tapcast (from the PC) and Plex (with the PC as server) but neither show HDR.
Is there any way I can solve this issue, possibly with a limited expense (<100Euro)? I guess a chromecast ultra would allow me to see stuff from netflix, but could I use it to stream movies from the HDD/PC? Thank y'all!


----------



## copperfield74

You could use an 4K Amazon Fire TV and install Kodi on it. With Kodi installed you can stream your movies from your PC and it's only 60€. I use this setup and am really satisfied with this solution.


----------



## seballos

copperfield74 said:


> You could use an 4K Amazon Fire TV and install Kodi on it. With Kodi installed you can stream your movies from your PC and it's only 60€. I use this setup and am really satisfied with this solution.


Thanks! Would Kodi on a Chromecast ultra work the same way? Also, are you also using the optical out like me?


----------



## SebastienR.

SebastienR. said:


> Mine has been RMA'd for this very reason. At first the dot would come and go, so I didn't worry too much. Then it stayed... And a second one appeared that never went away. Both in the middle of the screen, very distracting. I'm afraid it's like cancer, as in it spreads. The DMD chip needs to be changed, that's the thing with all the micromirrors on.


Hi everyone. My UHZ65UST came back yesterday and I don't know if it came back better or worse than when it had left. I no longer have white dots but the lens can't seem to focus on the entirety of the screen (92"). No matter how I move the focus slider, the lower part of the image remains blurry and hurts my eyes. It's not as obvious when playing videos but all graphical user interfaces look disgusting (Optoma home UI, Shield UI...) and strain the eyes because it's not focused right. I also don't recognize the lens, it looks different somewhat. And there's also this, huge light bleeds (see picture below)... Has anyone had a unit they couldn't get the focus right? Like way off, not just one of the top corners.


----------



## Christian Spiga

SebastienR. said:


> Hi everyone. My UHZ65UST came back yesterday and I don't know if it came back better or worse than when it had left. I no longer have white dots but the lens can't seem to focus on the entirety of the screen (92"). No matter how I move the focus slider, the lower part of the image remains blurry and hurts my eyes. It's not as obvious when playing videos but all graphical user interfaces look disgusting (Optoma home UI, Shield UI...) and strain the eyes because it's not focused right. I also don't recognize the lens, it looks different somewhat. And there's also this, huge light bleeds (see picture below)... Has anyone had a unit they couldn't get the focus right? Like way off, not just one of the top corners.


When there are Sharpness Issue they need to change the Engine.

Send him as soon as cover by warranty


----------



## Christian Spiga

seballos said:


> Hi everyone,
> I have a uhz65ust. Firmware is 15.5. Mostly, I use it hooked up via HDMI to my desktop PC, which has windows 10 with I7-3770k processor and GTX670 video card. For audio, I connected the optical output of the projector to my stereo integrated amplifier Rotel RA-12. Most of my movies are on a HDD connected to the PC, but I also have Netflix. I use VLC as media player.
> The problem is that with this setup, I cannot view movies and tv shows in 4K HDR. 4K works fine, but I think the main issue is that the GTX670 has only HDMI 1.2 outputs. I have two other laptops (one windows, one Ubuntu) with 1.4 HDMI outputs but the issue remains. Also the Windows laptop basically crashes when I play 4K HDR movies.
> I've tried to put the movies on a HDD and connect it directly to the projector, and the internal media player plays the movie in HDR (as told by projector info menu) but I have no audio. An error message to the tone of "Audio codec not recognized" appears most times.
> I tried to use Optoma Tapcast (from the PC) and Plex (with the PC as server) but neither show HDR.
> Is there any way I can solve this issue, possibly with a limited expense (<100Euro)? I guess a chromecast ultra would allow me to see stuff from netflix, but could I use it to stream movies from the HDD/PC? Thank y'all!


Without HDMI 2.0 you cannot play 4K HDR content.

If you don't hear the sound using the Optoma mediaplayer, probably you are playing some AVI format or MP4 not compliant. If you try with MKV you have no problems


----------



## dinesh26uk

Hi, has anyone got a Sonos arc setup with the UHZ65UST, with or without HD Fury. Was thinking of upgrading from my 2.1 Bose speakers from 10 years ago


----------



## fischkai

dinesh26uk said:


> Hi, has anyone got a Sonos arc setup with the UHZ65UST, with or without HD Fury. Was thinking of upgrading from my 2.1 Bose speakers from 10 years ago


Yes, it's working fine. You get Dolby Atmos with the HD Fury. The sound is superb.


----------



## dinesh26uk

fischkai said:


> Yes, it's working fine. You get Dolby Atmos with the HD Fury. The sound is superb.


That's good to hear. Did you get the separate subwoofer +/- the rear speakers?


----------



## maverick87r

Christian Spiga said:


> Go into the Service Menu:
> 
> Power Off - UP - DOWN - MENU (the 3 lines)
> 
> There is a rainbow pattern where you can see if you have a problem with the wheel or not.


Ended up opening a warranty item with optoma and sent it off. Is it normal to have to pay for shipping? Also can anyone tell me how long it took to get yours repaired?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Mick Seymour

maverick87r said:


> Ended up opening a warranty item with optoma and sent it off. Is it normal to have to pay for shipping? Also can anyone tell me how long it took to get yours repaired?


Someone on here said theirs was away 7 weeks. Mine's been away for 2 weeks so far. I didn't have to pay postage up front so we'll see.


----------



## fischkai

dinesh26uk said:


> That's good to hear. Did you get the separate subwoofer +/- the rear speakers?


Yes, Rear speakers + Subwoofer.


----------



## Christian Spiga

maverick87r said:


> Ended up opening a warranty item with optoma and sent it off. Is it normal to have to pay for shipping? Also can anyone tell me how long it took to get yours repaired?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Pay for shipping? Never pay!

Mine took 5 weeks!


----------



## eurovtec

oneil50 said:


> Dynamic black issue ?
> Can you share firmware version ? 15.5 ?


Hi. This is the screen when I check for system update. (Notice the last update date is 1970....)









After installing the firmware,










Upon turning off the projector, prompt to update driver.
After update driver which takes 30mins.


----------



## eurovtec

seballos said:


> Hi everyone,
> I have a uhz65ust. Firmware is 15.5. Mostly, I use it hooked up via HDMI to my desktop PC, which has windows 10 with I7-3770k processor and GTX670 video card. For audio, I connected the optical output of the projector to my stereo integrated amplifier Rotel RA-12. Most of my movies are on a HDD connected to the PC, but I also have Netflix. I use VLC as media player.
> The problem is that with this setup, I cannot view movies and tv shows in 4K HDR. 4K works fine, but I think the main issue is that the GTX670 has only HDMI 1.2 outputs. I have two other laptops (one windows, one Ubuntu) with 1.4 HDMI outputs but the issue remains. Also the Windows laptop basically crashes when I play 4K HDR movies.
> I've tried to put the movies on a HDD and connect it directly to the projector, and the internal media player plays the movie in HDR (as told by projector info menu) but I have no audio. An error message to the tone of "Audio codec not recognized" appears most times.
> I tried to use Optoma Tapcast (from the PC) and Plex (with the PC as server) but neither show HDR.
> Is there any way I can solve this issue, possibly with a limited expense (<100Euro)? I guess a chromecast ultra would allow me to see stuff from netflix, but could I use it to stream movies from the HDD/PC? Thank y'all!


Since your GeForce card is still hdmi 1.2, I suppose u r still using the old hdmi 1.2 cable.
U need a good reputable 4K hdmi cable.
And u need a GPU that has hdmi 2.0. 
Sinice u already has a nice setup, why not up your budget a little more?


----------



## legnaz

Moral of the story here is.... NEVER BUY OPTOMA AGAIN!!

We should all write negative reviews on Amazon so nobody will buy this junk.


----------



## Deasam

Hello everyone victims of buying! I apparently set a record for repair times ..... I passed the projector because of the defocusing of the image in the upper corners on January 15, 2021.

Passed 14 weeks! 14 Karl! It's just crazy. Support writes that there are no spare parts due to COVID. Another projector for the waiting time of the repair is also not provided!
Are there Optoma representatives here? Check out my serial number - Q7F2948AAAEC0184
WTF?! @OPTOMA Official


----------



## Mick Seymour

Deasam said:


> Привет всем пострадавшим от покупки! Я видимо поставил рекорд по времени ремонта ..... Сдал проектор из-за расфокусировки изображения в верхних углах 15 января 2021 года.
> 
> Прошло 14 недель! 14 Карл! Это просто безумие. Служба поддержки пишет, что запасных частей нет из-за COVID. Другого проектора на время ожидания ремонта тоже не предусмотрено!
> Здесь есть представители Optoma? Что это за чушь? Проверьте мой серийный номер - Q7F2948AAAEC0184
> Какого черта ?! @OPTOMA Official


This is an English speaking site. Please repost.


----------



## Christian Spiga

Deasam said:


> Hello everyone victims of buying! I apparently set a record for repair times ..... I passed the projector because of the defocusing of the image in the upper corners on January 15, 2021.
> 
> Passed 14 weeks! 14 Karl! It's just crazy. Support writes that there are no spare parts due to COVID. Another projector for the waiting time of the repair is also not provided!
> Are there Optoma representatives here? Check out my serial number - Q7F2948AAAEC0184
> WTF?! @OPTOMA Official
> 
> Embarassing. This thread is dead, like the hope to have a stable projector.
> They **** us, but probably is the last time for all of us.
> 
> Optoma Official is dead like Optoma Dude, after the new firmware goes online. ahahahahh


----------



## fischkai

Are there any happy UHZ 65 UST / Optoma P1 buyers left? I got the projector last year and I have used it for 100 hours so far. There were some problem with the picture which was getting lighter and darker in HDR movies but I guess that has been solved with the new firmware. May be I haven't used it enough to notice the problems?

Best Regards
Kai


----------



## Mick Seymour

I hope I'll be happy with mine when it comes back from having the colour wheel sorted. 

The only problem I have in use is that there is no reliable way to automatically select the correct HDMI input with my Harmony remote. Having said that, I don't watch 4k/HDR sources and am happy to be missing out on a whole lot of pain.


----------



## g4s

fischkai said:


> Are there any happy UHZ 65 UST / Optoma P1 buyers left? I got the projector last year and I have used it for 100 hours so far. There were some problem with the picture which was getting lighter and darker in HDR movies but I guess that has been solved with the new firmware. May be I haven't used it enough to notice the problems?
> 
> Best Regards
> Kai


I've had mine since 10/8/19. It has about 4000 hrs on it. It's used with an OTA tuner, an Nvidia Shield for 4k HDR, a Mac Mini and a Blu-ray player. Mine has been great.


----------



## Christian Spiga

g4s said:


> I've had mine since 10/8/19. It has about 4000 hrs on it. It's used with an OTA tuner, an Nvidia Shield for 4k HDR, a Mac Mini and a Blu-ray player. Mine has been great.


How are connected all your devices to the Optoma? Directly or with an A/V Receiver?


----------



## g4s

Christian Spiga said:


> How are connected all your devices to the Optoma? Directly or with an A/V Receiver?


The OTA tuner is hooked up directly. Everything else runs through a Yamaha TRS-7850 AVR.


----------



## Mick Seymour

g4s said:


> The OTA tuner is hooked up directly. Everything else runs through a Yamaha TRS-7850 AVR.


How to you switch PJ HDMI inputs? From the PJ Home menu or via CEC?


----------



## g4s

Mick Seymour said:


> How to you switch PJ HDMI inputs? From the PJ Home menu or via CEC?


From the projectors home menu.


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

Another who has had my UHZ65 UST since 2019 and apart from one issue where I had to RMA due to a dead pixel it’s been smooth sailing for me. Have it hooked up to a Denon AVR and never had any of the multitude of issues I see people reporting here.


----------



## Kdub69

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> Another who has had my UHZ65 UST since 2019 and apart from one issue where I had to RMA due to a dead pixel it’s been smooth sailing for me. Have it hooked up to a Denon AVR and never had any of the multitude of issues I see people reporting here.


What kind of denon avr do you have any edid drops? What type of hdmi cables are you using?


----------



## Roger92

Still having the issue of dynamic black stop working after a period. This is a pain on the ass to get it back.


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

Kdub69 said:


> What kind of denon avr do you have any edid drops? What type of hdmi cables are you using?


It’s a Denon AVR-X4500H powering a 5.2.4 speaker setup. I have various devices connected to it (Apple TV, nvidia shield and Amazon firestick), no edid dropouts or any problems that I have noticed at all. I cannot recall the exact hdmi cables I’m using but do know I moved away from Amazon basic ones and instead made sure to buy ones that are certified for 4K which have the certification on the package that you can scan to assure they are (I got them from Amazon and they were not that much more expensive than the Amazon basic ones).

I think a lot of people who are having these issues are either connecting directly to the projector or maybe not using an AVR that can handle full 4K/HDR bandwith via the HDMI ports. This is just a theory though


----------



## SebastienR.

It's actually due to people's receivers being too new and sporting hdmi 2.1 outputs which the P1/P2 seems to be incompatible with (although hdmi is a backwards-compatible standard). The snow or slow edid handshake usually occurs when there's a resolution or framerate change from one source to the next.


----------



## Kdub69

Any work arounds for this?


----------



## Kdub69

Ian Mclaughlin said:


> It’s a Denon AVR-X4500H powering a 5.2.4 speaker setup. I have various devices connected to it (Apple TV, nvidia shield and Amazon firestick), no edid dropouts or any problems that I have noticed at all. I cannot recall the exact hdmi cables I’m using but do know I moved away from Amazon basic ones and instead made sure to buy ones that are certified for 4K which have the certification on the package that you can scan to assure they are (I got them from Amazon and they were not that much more expensive than the Amazon basic ones).
> 
> I think a lot of people who are having these issues are either connecting directly to the projector or maybe not using an AVR that can handle full 4K/HDR bandwith via the HDMI ports. This is just a theory though


anyway you can link the hdmi cables from your history


----------



## SebastienR.

Kdub69 said:


> Any work arounds for this?


Using an edid emulator (hdfury's products seem to work well). Read the thread below for more information. 








Optoma CinemaX P1/P2 HDMI (handshake) issues - help...


Hi there, I recently (June 2020) purchased the Optoma Cinemax P1 based on good reviews. However, in my settings I have a couple of issues and would like to see if you could help me. I opened a ticket with Optoma support but no answer for more than a week now... I'm fairly technical and I...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## ernest787

I'm going to have to send mine off. The white dot came back and they sent me the info to send it in. 

I was also notified I have to pay shipping to them and they will pay shipping to send it back to me.


----------



## eedwards86

Anyone hear from Optoma in a while? They were on this forum for like a week and then disappeared again.


----------



## Ian Mclaughlin

Kdub69 said:


> anyway you can link the hdmi cables from your history


Yes sure just looked it up:https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&r...p/B07KWNPZ1L&usg=AOvVaw37UHei8LeIONL5fzbR6Fij


----------



## k0lgrim

fischkai said:


> Are there any happy UHZ 65 UST / Optoma P1 buyers left? I got the projector last year and I have used it for 100 hours so far. There were some problem with the picture which was getting lighter and darker in HDR movies but I guess that has been solved with the new firmware. May be I haven't used it enough to notice the problems?
> 
> Best Regards
> Kai


Actually, apart from occasional EDID/connection issues with my PS4 Pro and the "can't shut off"-Bug that was fixed with the last firmware update i've overall been very happy with the UHZ65UST. Using it now nearly 1000 hours, mostly watching movies with the Nvidia Shield Pro and playing games with the PS4, also watched several 3D Blurays with my player which also worked smooth and looks absolutely stunning.

But due to all these bad experiences with support here i wouldn't recommend Optoma beamers to my friends, i think.

One thing the Optoma officials mentioned in this thread might be the reason for a lot of problems: the beamer seems to be very picky when it comes to HDMI signal quality. I have very expensive and short cables and never had most of the problems mentioned here.

I have everything attached through a NAD T777v3 receiver (which uses HDMI2.0b) and Supra 4K HDMI cables.


----------



## k0lgrim

eedwards86 said:


> Anyone hear from Optoma in a while? They were on this forum for like a week and then disappeared again.


Guess they will come back online again when the new firmware they promised is available. At least that was the case last time.


----------



## SebastienR.

k0lgrim said:


> through a NAD T777v3 receiver (which uses HDMI2.0b)


Have we heard anyone with an HDMI 2.0 receiver who had connection issues with Optoma's UST's?


----------



## eedwards86

SebastienR. said:


> Have we heard anyone with an HDMI 2.0 receiver who had connection issues with Optoma's UST's?


I have a pioneer LX303 which I believe is hdmi 2.0 and it has connection issues.


----------



## SebastienR.

eedwards86 said:


> I have a pioneer LX303 which I believe is hdmi 2.0 and it has connection issues.


Can you describe them? I used to have a Marantz SR5015 alongside the P2 and was getting 2-3mn non-stop snow and connection drops every time I was switching sources. Unusable..


----------



## eedwards86

SebastienR. said:


> Can you describe them? I used to have a Marantz SR5015 alongside the P2 and was getting 2-3mn non-stop snow and connection drops every time I was switching sources. Unusable..


Ya, pretty much the same. If I turn the P1 on before the AVR, i'll get snow/connection drops every 10-15 minutes (sometimes more, sometimes less). If I change sources, same thing. Only works when I turn on AVR and devices first and then the P1. Additionally, I ordered the EZCOO HDMI Extractor; I've heard this fixes things:



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TZRXKYG/



Should be able to test this weekend.


----------



## Christian Spiga

I'm proud to be part of all the people that have not only the EDID problem but also the Turn Off Problem. Since yesterday my ****ing projector don't wanna turn off, work only the menù button and in all the values of the picture profile i read a nice ERROR. I had also no audio before 3 restart. I was thinking that this kind of problem you have or not after the upgrade, but now i discover that your projector can become sick after a while.

Thanks Optoma, nice peace of ****.....sorry, golden **** because the price.


----------



## copperfield74

To be honest next time I will maybe just buy a 82" 4K TV. The prices are droping and they will become more affordable in a year or so. Then there will maybe some 100" TVs without these problems. Optoma will not get any money from me in the future.


----------



## yknottavs

Christian Spiga said:


> Since yesterday my ****ing projector don't wanna turn off, work only the menù button and in all the values of the picture profile i read a nice ERROR.


I've experience the same thing. Luckily it happened only once so far. Had to pull the power cord to shutdown the projector.


----------



## Mick Seymour

Are all problems logged with Optoma by _everyone_ who has them? They may only get properly fixed if enough people shout. All our projectors are under warranty so they must do something, by law.


----------



## Kdub69

eedwards86 said:


> Ya, pretty much the same. If I turn the P1 on before the AVR, i'll get snow/connection drops every 10-15 minutes (sometimes more, sometimes less). If I change sources, same thing. Only works when I turn on AVR and devices first and then the P1. Additionally, I ordered the EZCOO HDMI Extractor; I've heard this fixes things:
> 
> http://[URL]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TZRXKYG/[/URL]
> 
> Should be able to test this weekend.


I have one on order also please tell me exactly how you set up the ezcoo and what settings you put on it. I should be getting mine in 2 weeks.


----------



## eedwards86

Kdub69 said:


> I have one on order also please tell me exactly how you set up the ezcoo and what settings you put on it. I should be getting mine in 2 weeks.


No problem, will keep you posted. I should be able to test Friday.


----------



## Christian Spiga

Christian Spiga said:


> I'm proud to be part of all the people that have not only the EDID problem but also the Turn Off Problem. Since yesterday my ****ing projector don't wanna turn off, work only the menù button and in all the values of the picture profile i read a nice ERROR. I had also no audio before 3 restart. I was thinking that this kind of problem you have or not after the upgrade, but now i discover that your projector can become sick after a while.
> 
> Thanks Optoma, nice peace of **.....sorry, golden ** because the price.


UPDATE:

After a "Reset to Default" the projector work again "without" problems of remote control and on/off, just a nice EDID with my Xbox Series X


----------



## eedwards86

Kdub69 said:


> I have one on order also please tell me exactly how you set up the ezcoo and what settings you put on it. I should be getting mine in 2 weeks.


I ran the first test last night and I have some preliminary results:

1. Pins in default configuration (1-5 in Off position) did NOT fix the issue for me, I still had dropouts
2. Pins in the following configuration that allows for 4K60Hz (444) 8CH_HDR (1, 2 = OFF, 3,4,5 = ON) did work when testing on Nvidia Shield.

I tested with 23.98Hz and 59.94Hz on Nvidia shield in the above configuration and did not see any drop outs. I turned equipment on in different orders to try to break edid connection and everything appeared to work correctly. I did not watch content long enough to say this worked 100% of the time so I'll try to watch a few movies this weekend to verify nothing drops out. I also need to test this on my Blu-Ray to see if it helps there. I did have to tweak my AVR settings to get Dolby Atmos back, for some reason I only had audio coming out of Left, Center and Right speakers when I first tested. I tweaked some settings on the AVR and everything came back normal. Overall this looks promising.

Lastly, I'll test the 4K (Dolby Vision_Dolby Atmos) configuration as well (1, 2 = OFF, 3, 4 = ON, 5 = OFF) to see if that helps as well.


----------



## Kdub69

eedwards86 said:


> I ran the first test last night and I have some preliminary results:
> 
> 1. Pins in default configuration (1-5 in Off position) did NOT fix the issue for me, I still had dropouts
> 2. Pins in the following configuration that allows for 4K60Hz (444) 8CH_HDR (1, 2 = OFF, 3,4,5 = ON) did work when testing on Nvidia Shield.
> 
> I tested with 23.98Hz and 59.94Hz on Nvidia shield in the above configuration and did not see any drop outs. I turned equipment on in different orders to try to break edid connection and everything appeared to work correctly. I did not watch content long enough to say this worked 100% of the time so I'll try to watch a few movies this weekend to verify nothing drops out. I also need to test this on my Blu-Ray to see if it helps there. I did have to tweak my AVR settings to get Dolby Atmos back, for some reason I only had audio coming out of Left, Center and Right speakers when I first tested. I tweaked some settings on the AVR and everything came back normal. Overall this looks promising.
> 
> Lastly, I'll test the 4K (Dolby Vision_Dolby Atmos) configuration as well (1, 2 = OFF, 3, 4 = ON, 5 = OFF) to see if that helps as well.


Thank you so much definitely keep testing the information here will help us all!!! Greatly appreciated I owe you big time! What type of avr do you have and what did you need to change to get your sound back? Looking forward to you testing a little bit more, but this is definitely promising! Thanks again!!


----------



## Kdub69

eedwards86 said:


> I ran the first test last night and I have some preliminary results:
> 
> 1. Pins in default configuration (1-5 in Off position) did NOT fix the issue for me, I still had dropouts
> 2. Pins in the following configuration that allows for 4K60Hz (444) 8CH_HDR (1, 2 = OFF, 3,4,5 = ON) did work when testing on Nvidia Shield.
> 
> I tested with 23.98Hz and 59.94Hz on Nvidia shield in the above configuration and did not see any drop outs. I turned equipment on in different orders to try to break edid connection and everything appeared to work correctly. I did not watch content long enough to say this worked 100% of the time so I'll try to watch a few movies this weekend to verify nothing drops out. I also need to test this on my Blu-Ray to see if it helps there. I did have to tweak my AVR settings to get Dolby Atmos back, for some reason I only had audio coming out of Left, Center and Right speakers when I first tested. I tweaked some settings on the AVR and everything came back normal. Overall this looks promising.
> 
> Lastly, I'll test the 4K (Dolby Vision_Dolby Atmos) configuration as well (1, 2 = OFF, 3, 4 = ON, 5 = OFF) to see if that helps as well.


Also what is your pathway for your device?
Is it avr-ezcoo-optomp1?


----------



## eedwards86

Kdub69 said:


> Also what is your pathway for your device?
> Is it avr-ezcoo-optomp1?


I have the Pioneer VSX-LX303. The connection pathway is:

All devices (Blu-Ray, Shield, etc) connected to AVR HDMI-IN ports.
AVR main HDMI OUT connected to HDMI IN on EZCOO
P1 connected to HDMI out on EZCOO

[ DEVICES -> AVR -> EZCOO -> P1 ]

I'm using BiFale 8K HDMI cables from the AVR to EZCOO and from EZCOO to P1. The HDMI cable from EZCOO to P1 is 40FT Fiber: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZK9P5VK/ and HDMI cable from AVR to EZCOO is 3FT: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NDK8QG9/

In regards to AVR settings, I just had to toggle between AUTO/DIRECT and re-select listening mode of Dolby Atmos. I don't think it was necessarily related to hooking this up because all devices are going straight into the AVR so it shouldn't have made a difference but it was the first time I've had that issue.

I should have more updates tomorrow.


----------



## SebastienR.

I have just tested Arcana from HDFury to get my father's P2 to work with his Denon X3700H. It's not instant (not sure if any solution is) but within a couple seconds of changing sources, you see Arcana handshaking the two EDID's and displaying the new source with the parameters in blue overlay. This is out of the box. There is zero fiddling to do, the handshaking is automatic and completely eliminates the snow. For the price (€199 starting price) you get the added benefit of having the dynamic tone mapping from Dolby Vision sources automatically injected into your HDR10 signal. In my limited testing it eliminates the need for Optoma's buggy dynamic black feature. I was expecting a lot harder setup versus the Vertex4K I had previously tested then returned (following bad advice from this forum).
I was wondering what max luminance those with LLDV compatible HDFury products had set in their LLDV to HDR section? Currently I have it set at 500 nits (Optoma P2 here and 0.6 gain UST screen from Vividstorm).


----------



## Kdub69

eedwards86 said:


> I have the Pioneer VSX-LX303. The connection pathway is:
> 
> All devices (Blu-Ray, Shield, etc) connected to AVR HDMI-IN ports.
> AVR main HDMI OUT connected to HDMI IN on EZCOO
> P1 connected to HDMI out on EZCOO
> 
> [ DEVICES -> AVR -> EZCOO -> P1 ]
> 
> I'm using BiFale 8K HDMI cables from the AVR to EZCOO and from EZCOO to P1. The HDMI cable from EZCOO to P1 is 40FT Fiber: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZK9P5VK/ and HDMI cable from AVR to EZCOO is 3FT: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NDK8QG9/
> 
> In regards to AVR settings, I just had to toggle between AUTO/DIRECT and re-select listening mode of Dolby Atmos. I don't think it was necessarily related to hooking this up because all devices are going straight into the AVR so it shouldn't have made a difference but it was the first time I've had that issue.
> 
> I should have more updates tomorrow.


Thank you sooooo much!!! Looking forward to your updates!


----------



## eedwards86

Kdub69 said:


> Thank you sooooo much!!! Looking forward to your updates!


Played a movie today and didn't have any issues. I feel confident it has helped. I'll keep watching content throughout the week to see if it happens again but overall I think this device will work. I know the Arcana or the Atlona are better/superior devices but the EZCOO only cost me $33 so it's probably the cheapest solution for those who don't want to spend $200 or more. More than likely i'll probably move on to the Arcana if Optoma doesn't officially fix the problem.


----------



## Kdub69

eedwards86 said:


> Played a movie today and didn't have any issues. I feel confident it has helped. I'll keep watching content throughout the week to see if it happens again but overall I think this device will work. I know the Arcana or the Atlona are better/superior devices but the EZCOO only cost me $33 so it's probably the cheapest solution for those who don't want to spend $200 or more. More than likely i'll probably move on to the Arcana if Optoma doesn't officially fix the problem.


Great to hear if anything changes please post!


----------



## ernest787

I know this hasn't been active recently but I sent my projector in to get repaired due to the white dot popping up. 

Had to pay shipping to optoma which was not cheap especially since they required it to be insured. 

Got the projector back on Wednesday of this week. Hooked it up and watched some TV Wednesday. Didn't use it on Thursday and then fired it up tonight. 

Guess what's back. 

Ughhhh. Now having to get back in contact with them to figure out what can be done bc im not paying to ship it again when they were suppose to fix it the first time.


----------



## eurovtec

ernest787 said:


> I know this hasn't been active recently but I sent my projector in to get repaired due to the white dot popping up.
> 
> Had to pay shipping to optoma which was not cheap especially since they required it to be insured.
> 
> Got the projector back on Wednesday of this week. Hooked it up and watched some TV Wednesday. Didn't use it on Thursday and then fired it up tonight.
> 
> Guess what's back.
> 
> Ughhhh. Now having to get back in contact with them to figure out what can be done bc im not paying to ship it again when they were suppose to fix it the first time.


If It failed again for the same fault, then u should get a 1 to 1 replacement.
It’s a lemon.

*Optoma seems to be lying Low, despite all these problems. 
The design of P series is probably flawed thus they can’t find a way to resolve all the problems. 
Once my unit spoil, WILL NOT buy another Optoma product.*


----------



## SebastienR.

ernest787 said:


> I know this hasn't been active recently but I sent my projector in to get repaired due to the white dot popping up.
> 
> Had to pay shipping to optoma which was not cheap especially since they required it to be insured.
> 
> Got the projector back on Wednesday of this week. Hooked it up and watched some TV Wednesday. Didn't use it on Thursday and then fired it up tonight.
> 
> Guess what's back.
> 
> Ughhhh. Now having to get back in contact with them to figure out what can be done bc im not paying to ship it again when they were suppose to fix it the first time.


Ouch ! I'm guessing they didn't bother changing the DMD chip... I'd be pretty pissed if it had be me.
Mine was obviously changed (two white dots had popped) but the swap introduced a slew of other issues : inability to focus the whole image and localized light leaks. I had to send it back but fortunately in these parts of the world Optoma's contractor is paying for the shipping both ways. Still waiting for my unit to come back, been almost 3 weeks since they received it.


----------



## Mick Seymour

My UHZ65UST went back 7 weeks ago due to colour banding problems. They were going to change the combiner but parts are in VERY short supply. They sent me a new PJ instead. The image is fine on this one although the previous one was fine for 9 months.

QC is non-existent on these units and I don't think they can blame Covid for what is a massive design fail.


----------



## legnaz

ernest787 said:


> I know this hasn't been active recently but I sent my projector in to get repaired due to the white dot popping up.
> 
> Had to pay shipping to optoma which was not cheap especially since they required it to be insured.
> 
> Got the projector back on Wednesday of this week. Hooked it up and watched some TV Wednesday. Didn't use it on Thursday and then fired it up tonight.
> 
> Guess what's back.
> 
> Ughhhh. Now having to get back in contact with them to figure out what can be done bc im not paying to ship it again when they were suppose to fix it the first time.



I sent mine in too. They received it on a Fri. and It was shipped back to me on the next Mon. Guess what they did to it? They reset it and sent it back! No repairs! I called and they said they were closed on the weekends, so how did they fix it in 2 days? They didn't fix the color banding or the focus issues. They didn't even take it apart. Worst company ever. I live 3 hrs from them. I should have drove over there and threw it through their window. Your next step might be to sue them.


----------



## DunMunro

ernest787 said:


> I know this hasn't been active recently but I sent my projector in to get repaired due to the white dot popping up.
> 
> Had to pay shipping to optoma which was not cheap especially since they required it to be insured.
> 
> Got the projector back on Wednesday of this week. Hooked it up and watched some TV Wednesday. Didn't use it on Thursday and then fired it up tonight.
> 
> Guess what's back.
> 
> Ughhhh. Now having to get back in contact with them to figure out what can be done bc im not paying to ship it again when they were suppose to fix it the first time.


That sounds like a stuck micromirror. It can occur intermittently and if it does, it may not have appeared during their testing.


----------



## ernest787

DunMunro said:


> That sounds like a stuck micromirror. It can occur intermittently and if it does, it may not have appeared during their testing.


Maybe. It's frustrating though bc when the white dot appeared and I sent it in, it literally did it every single time I turned on the projector. It would usually go away if I fiddled with turning it on and off enough but would take some time before doing so. 

This time everything looked fine the first day. Then last night a white dot came back but in a different spot. In fact at times there were 2 or 3 dots on the screen in different places. 

Tonight I fired it up and the white dots were no where to be seen. 

I'm not sure what's going on. But if they did replace the DMD chip and the new one is faulty there are obviously quality control issues on their end. Worst yet, it's possible they didn't replace anything and just sent my unit back to me. Hopefully it's not the latter especially considering they had my unit for almost 3 weeks. 

I'm just really frustrated and have all but lost faith in optoma as a company. 

I did send an email to them last night and multiple pictures of the dot on the screen. Hopefully they do what's right and fix this


----------



## eurovtec

New 4K UST from Benq.
BenQ V6050 4K Laser TV Short Throw Projector

*For people considering an UST, can look elsewhere but Optoma brand.*


----------



## Christian Spiga

It's horrible this situation, i cannot imagine when all this problems will pop up when the warranty is expired and they will ask a lot of money to do nothing, like they are doing now


----------



## Kev1000000

eurovtec said:


> New 4K UST from Benq.
> BenQ V6050 4K Laser TV Short Throw Projector
> 
> *For people considering an UST, can look elsewhere but Optoma brand.*


Whoa, this looks great. When is it available in the US?


----------



## ernest787

I emailed the representative that helped me the first time om Friday evening. I understand they likely don't work the weekend so expected to hear something Monday but still haven't received a response. 

Since Friday night the projector hasn't had any issues but I suspect if it happened once it'll come back at some point.


----------



## Christian Spiga

ernest787 said:


> I emailed the representative that helped me the first time om Friday evening. I understand they likely don't work the weekend so expected to hear something Monday but still haven't received a response.
> 
> Since Friday night the projector hasn't had any issues but I suspect if it happened once it'll come back at some point.


When a service is too fast, can be only 2 options:


They did nothing
They send you a replacement

Maybe you are lucky


----------



## ernest787

They finally got back to me and asked me to mail it back to them. They agreed to pay for return shipping. 

That said the dot hasn't shown back up since last Friday and now I'm debating waiting to see if it comes back or not. I'd rather not be without my projector for 3 weeks again. 

Decisions. Decisions. Decisions.


----------



## eurovtec

Kev1000000 said:


> Whoa, this looks great. When is it available in the US?


Hi Kev, not sure about that. 
We can keep our options open on other brands if the P1 fails. 
*We now know the OPTOMA makes false advertising of their products & lousy after sales.*


----------



## eurovtec

For those using htpc win10, u can try this settings of Nvidia control panel.

Under Display > change resolution > Use Nvidia setting, desktop Color depth=32bit, output Color format=444, output Color depth 8bits, output dynamic range =limited

Under video>adjust video Color setting > with Nvidia setting > advanced & choose dynamic range to full. Color n gamma default Setting.

See if any diff or better.


----------



## Mark Sherman

eedwards86 said:


> Played a movie today and didn't have any issues. I feel confident it has helped. I'll keep watching content throughout the week to see if it happens again but overall I think this device will work. I know the Arcana or the Atlona are better/superior devices but the EZCOO only cost me $33 so it's probably the cheapest solution for those who don't want to spend $200 or more. More than likely i'll probably move on to the Arcana if Optoma doesn't officially fix the problem.


Worked for me with Chromecast for Google TV....edid couldn't lock down on 4k, kept reverting to 1080....no more edid issues!


----------



## jhbball2002

Anyone else experiencing with issues with game mode still with the latest firmware? I'm seeing the a faint line down the middle of the screen when playing PS5, like the projector is splitting the image in 2 halves (separated by a faint vertical line). Behavior only occurs in game mode.


----------



## g4s

jhbball2002 said:


> Anyone else experiencing with issues with game mode still with the latest firmware? I'm seeing the a faint line down the middle of the screen when playing PS5, like the projector is splitting the image in 2 halves (separated by a faint vertical line). Behavior only occurs in game mode.


I'll get that faint line occasionally with my Mac Mini. You can go to the projectors main menu, reselect the PS5's input, that'll fix it. If mine seems to be doing it often, once a week or so, I'll shut it down and unplug it for a minute. I've had to do that a few times over the last 1.5 years.


----------



## oneil50

jhbball2002 said:


> Anyone else experiencing with issues with game mode still with the latest firmware? I'm seeing the a faint line down the middle of the screen when playing PS5, like the projector is splitting the image in 2 halves (separated by a faint vertical line). Behavior only occurs in game mode.


Same in game mode. 
I noticed it after the last update. One among so many. Last update was July 2020, then February 2021. Maybe the next update should be in July.... Or not.


----------



## Mick Seymour

I've found yet another problem!

The phone rang the other day and using the PJ remote I turned the volume down to 0 to take the call (I wish they'd put a mute button on the remote). I needed to go out after the call so shut the PJ down. Powering it up later, I turned up the volume and there was no sound from the internal speakers. I had to reboot the PJ to get the sound back.

I had a similar problem which was fixed in a previous firmware where muting and shutting down, there was no sound on power up. That was fixed by firmware setting the volume back to the previous level on a power up. That fix doesn't work in this case as the previous level is 0 and the PJ is effectively muted.

I've logged it with support.


----------



## Christian Spiga

June is finishing......October is not so far anymore and a lot of warranty will start to expire.....in the meantime Optoma disappear againg from the forum.......we never had a fully functional projector as specifications......is crazy that there is no way to be protected against these situations.......really said about.


----------



## Mick Seymour

Mick Seymour said:


> I've found yet another problem!
> 
> The phone rang the other day and using the PJ remote I turned the volume down to 0 to take the call (I wish they'd put a mute button on the remote). I needed to go out after the call so shut the PJ down. Powering it up later, I turned up the volume and there was no sound from the internal speakers. I had to reboot the PJ to get the sound back.
> 
> I had a similar problem which was fixed in a previous firmware where muting and shutting down, there was no sound on power up. That was fixed by firmware setting the volume back to the previous level on a power up. That fix doesn't work in this case as the previous level is 0 and the PJ is effectively muted.
> 
> I've logged it with support.


They've found the problem and will be fixing it for the next OTA update. No indication of when that update will be though.


----------



## Mick Seymour

Christian Spiga said:


> June is finishing......October is not so far anymore and a lot of warranty will start to expire.....in the meantime Optoma disappear againg from the forum.......we never had a fully functional projector as specifications......is crazy that there is no way to be protected against these situations.......really said about.


For those of us who have had RMA swaps, I am hoping they at least honour the warranty from the date of the replacement. I'm on PJ 3 now, the last received in the last month. I am expecting warranty to expire in 2 years from now. I guess we'll see.


----------



## Christian Spiga

Mick Seymour said:


> For those of us who have had RMA swaps, I am hoping they at least honour the warranty from the date of the replacement. I'm on PJ 3 now, the last received in the last month. I am expecting warranty to expire in 2 years from now. I guess we'll see.


I'm so sorry, but i know for sure, that your warranty will expire after 2 years of the data wrote in your bill, no matter if in the meantime they send you 5 different PJ, you are only lucky that they don't fix but replace. Be ready to pay the next time you need support


----------



## oneil50

Some news from another thread.
Next firmware end of July.


----------



## PhxGld

Hi All,

I've had these issues not only with connected devices but in the projectors own OS apps. I wasn't even able to get an RMA until I sent in video of that specifically. Knowing some of you received new units and still had problems. Then they tell me send in the unit and are telling others the FW will fix this issue. It's clear with release of the Pro they have no interest in actually shipping a finished functional product. Never will I buy optoma product again.


----------



## PhxGld

Hi All,

I've had these issues not only with connected devices but in the projectors own OS apps. I wasn't even able to get an RMA until I sent in video of that specifically. Knowing some of you received new units and still had problems. Then they tell me send in the unit and are telling others the FW will fix this issue. It's clear with release of the Pro they have no interest in actually shipping a finished functional product. Never will I buy optoma product again.


----------



## Mick Seymour

I had this the earlier this month, after booting the PJ. A reboot solved it.









This is such a shoddy product. I really wish I hadn't dropped €3,300 on it.


----------



## oneil50

Sometimes too on mine.... Got same problem with my last BenQ HT3550. All projector with DMD TI 0.47" got these ****ty problem.


----------



## djxchange

After almost a year of fighting with this thing with their horrible "update", I finally gave up and got the Samsung Premiere 130 - it blows the P1 out of the water and 0 issues at all. Boots up in less than 30 seconds and you can use your screen vs the P1 I would just turn it on an hour prior to wanting to use it and watch the screen jump around for 30-60 minutes and then get to watch movies with that stupid white dot that they can't fix. So over Optama what a shame and waste of money.

FYI The Premiere's image quality is insane next to the P1 too. In the full sun you can still watch TV and then when you black the room out watch out it's pure epicness


----------



## OPTOMA Official

Everyone -- We apologize for the delay in the firmware release to address the HDMI 2.1 AVR issue. We have been working hard with our software development teams to find a solutions to the important concerns and issues raised in this forum.

Earlier this year, we made a commitment to provide the firmware upgrades and share information with you and we intend to honor our commitment to keep you informed. 

We are pleased to announce the firmware updates for Optoma’s CinemaX P1, CinemaX P2, CinemaX Pro and UHZ65UST projectors is *NOW* *AVAILABLE*. The updates can be performed OTA (online – over the air) or via USB upgrade. To use the USB upgrade method, please download the USB upgrade file from the product pages for the CinemaX P1, CinemaX P2, CinemaX Pro and UHZ65UST projectors located on your local Optoma website. You may also download the firmware updates by visiting the Customer Support pages. 

*NOTE*: USB Versions will be available in the morning. 

Below are the links;

USA and Canada - Service and support - Optoma USA

Europe -https://www.optomaeurope.com/service-and-support

Mexico - Servicio y soporte - Optoma Americas: México

Brazil - Serviço e suporte - Optoma Americas: Brasil

Once again, we truly apologize for the delay. At Optoma, we continue to strive to offer you the best in class customer service. If you have any further questions or concerns, please contact your local customer service representative via the links below;

USA and Canada - Contact us - Optoma USA

Europe - Contact us - Optoma Europe, Middle East, and Africa

Mexico - Contacte con nosotros - Optoma Americas: México

Brazil – Entre em contato conosco - Optoma Americas: Brasil


----------



## OPTOMA Official

*CinemaX P2 FW Upgrade Release Notes*

July 20th, 2021

Version:
System FW: C13.2
DDP: C04
MCU: C07

** Factory Reset after update is recommended. From the Launcher (Home Screen) go to “Settings > System > Reset > Reset to Default”. **

** Following the System FW/OS Update, you will be prompted to update the MCU and DDP when shutting down the projector. Please update the components to ensure stability. **

1. Resolve handshake/connectivity issue when using 2.1/8K AVR (Denon, Yamaha, Marantz)
a. Resolve snowy image, black image or sync loop when connecting projector to AVR.
b. Resolve incorrect resolution when connecting projector to 2.1/8K AVR.
c. NOTE: Please remember that long and or low-quality copper cables can produce similar connectivity issues. We highly recommend Active Fiber HDMI Cables for long cable runs (over 20-25 feet). Please be diligent.

2. Modify Internal Speaker Delay to +/-150ms (Auto Settings)
a. Allows greater range of adjustment to resolve Lip Sync and other Audio Alignment issues.
b. This applies to the internal speaker only.

3. Remove iQIYI App from the Marketplace
a. This app is no longer supported.

4. Discreet Power Off IR/BT support
a. Added support for Discreet “Power Off” IR/BT Code. Complete IR/BT code list is available on the product page for CinemaX P2 (under downloads).

5. Previous Firmware Upgrade Builds resulted in Audio Settings values of “zero or negative”
a. Audio Settings no longer display values of “zero or negative”.


----------



## OPTOMA Official

CinemaX P1 and CinemaX PRO FW Upgrade Release Notes

July 20th, 2021

Versions:
System FW: 17.2

** Factory Reset after update is recommended From the Launcher (Home Screen) go to Settings > System > Reset > Reset to Default . **

1. Resolve handshake/connectivity issue when using 2.1/8K AVR (Denon, Yamaha, Marantz)
a. Resolve snowy image, black image or sync loop when connecting projector to AVR.
b. Resolve incorrect resolution when connecting projector to 2.1/8K AVR.
c. NOTE: Please remember that long and or low-quality copper cables can produce similar connectivity issues. We highly recommend Active Fiber HDMI Cables for long cable runs (over 20-25 feet). Please be diligent. 

2. Modify Internal Speaker Delay to +/-150ms (Auto Settings) 
a. Allows greater range of adjustment to resolve Lip Sync and other Audio Alignment issues. 
b. This applies to the internal speaker only.

3. Remove iQIYI App from the Marketplace
a. This app is no longer supported.

4. Discreet Power Off IR/BT support
a. Added support for Discreet Power Off IR/BT Code. Complete IR/BT code list is available on the website product page for CinemaX P1 (under downloads).

5. Previous Firmware Upgrade Builds resulted in Audio Settings values of zero or negative 
a. Audio Settings no longer display values of zero or negative .


----------



## Jan L

None of the Bugs which were mentioned over and over again here, are listed in the change log. I dont care for any of those useless fixes....thx for nothing


----------



## copperfield74

OPTOMA Official said:


> CinemaX P1 and CinemaX PRO FW Upgrade Release Notes
> 
> July 20th, 2021
> 
> Versions:
> System FW: 17.2
> 
> ** Factory Reset after update is recommended From the Launcher (Home Screen) go to Settings > System > Reset > Reset to Default . **
> 
> 1. Resolve handshake/connectivity issue when using 2.1/8K AVR (Denon, Yamaha, Marantz)
> a. Resolve snowy image, black image or sync loop when connecting projector to AVR.
> b. Resolve incorrect resolution when connecting projector to 2.1/8K AVR.
> c. NOTE: Please remember that long and or low-quality copper cables can produce similar connectivity issues. We highly recommend Active Fiber HDMI Cables for long cable runs (over 20-25 feet). Please be diligent.
> 
> 2. Modify Internal Speaker Delay to +/-150ms (Auto Settings)
> a. Allows greater range of adjustment to resolve Lip Sync and other Audio Alignment issues.
> b. This applies to the internal speaker only.
> 
> 3. Remove iQIYI App from the Marketplace
> a. This app is no longer supported.
> 
> 4. Discreet Power Off IR/BT support
> a. Added support for Discreet Power Off IR/BT Code. Complete IR/BT code list is available on the website product page for CinemaX P1 (under downloads).
> 
> 5. Previous Firmware Upgrade Builds resulted in Audio Settings values of zero or negative
> a. Audio Settings no longer display values of zero or negative .


Well…. like I said before….never ever another Optoma product. Did the Update via USB because my 1Tb Network was only able to download 10% after 15 minutes. My mistake was changing from Cinema to HDR SIM! Got it working again after changing EDID from 2.0-1.4-2.0! It’s a shame what you doing with your customers.


----------



## oneil50

Did update too. But no update 30 min after the first reboot.
Are you all on :
C17.2
MCU 12.0
DDP C21 ?


----------



## copperfield74

oneil50 said:


> Did update too. But no update 30 min after the first reboot.
> Are you all on :
> C17.2
> MCU 12.0
> DDP C21 ?


Yes!


----------



## OPTOMA Official

Jan L said:


> None of the Bugs which were mentioned over and over again here, are listed in the change log. I dont care for any of those useless fixes....thx for nothing


Please elaborate, all addressable bugs have been resolved or improved. ;-)


----------



## OPTOMA Official

oneil50 said:


> Did update too. But no update 30 min after the first reboot.
> Are you all on :
> C17.2
> MCU 12.0
> DDP C21 ?


P1 has no update to DDP and MCU update -- only System Update. IF you were on old DDP or MCU, it will update (which is why the versions are listed). 

Only P2 has a MCU and DDP update (see release note).


----------



## OPTOMA Official

copperfield74 said:


> Well…. like I said before….never ever another Optoma product. Did the Update via USB because my 1Tb Network was only able to download 10% after 15 minutes. My mistake was changing from Cinema to HDR SIM! Got it working again after changing EDID from 2.0-1.4-2.0! It’s a shame what you doing with your customers.
> View attachment 3158722


To everyone experiencing the split screen. This is a known issue of the TI hardware. The solution contains two Microprocessors that must fall into sync. Occasionally they do not sync on boot. This problem affects all products with this DMD solution, NOT just Optoma products. We have been and will continue to work on "improving" the timing.

With that said, there are two scenarios:

1. Split Screen occurs on boot once or twice a week - few times per month. This is normal per the limitation. It can resolved with a reboot or in many cases changing the source to one of the HDMI inputs and then back to home. 

2. Split Screen on EVERY single boot or serveral times per week. If so, PLEASE contact support. 

Other questions or concerns, please feel free to respond.


----------



## oneil50

My setup : Shield TV => Pioneer AVR => Optoma p1. All hdmi optical.

Before : when PJ is switching SDR to HDR with shiel TV, got a black screen (HDMI 10 bit 4.2.0) and many drop and lost signal with 12 bit 4.2.2 
After update : Now the switch on 10 bit got each time lost HDMI connection and come back when I'm going back SDR. And on 12 bit, at the moment everything looks good. 
My fire tv is 100% lost connection when SDR => HDR. (No problem when connected on pj hdmi)

Mibox works good like shield TV on 12 bit.

On my Zidoo still same problem, when projector stop a HDR movie and comes back SDR, colour are oversaturated... I must go on home menu PJ and come back HDMI to resolve it.
I will try long movie this night for stability HDMI.

I can't test stability with HDMI 2.1.


----------



## OPTOMA Official

oneil50 said:


> My setup : Shield TV => Pioneer AVR => Optoma p1. All hdmi optical.
> 
> Before : when PJ is switching SDR to HDR with shiel TV, got a black screen (HDMI 10 bit 4.2.0) and many drop and lost signal with 12 bit 4.2.2
> After update : Now the switch on 10 bit got each time lost HDMI connection and come back when I'm going back SDR. And on 12 bit, at the moment everything looks good.
> My fire tv is 100% lost connection when SDR => HDR. (No problem when connected on pj hdmi)
> 
> Mibox works good like shield TV on 12 bit.
> 
> On my Zidoo still same problem, when projector stop a HDR movie and comes back SDR, colour are oversaturated... I must go on home menu PJ and come back HDMI to resolve it.
> I will try long movie this night for stability HDMI.
> 
> I can't test stability with HDMI 2.1.


Thanks for the details.

Can you confirm the model of the Pioneer AVR? 

I assume the Shield is connected to HDMI 1 or 2?


----------



## g4s

Do I really need to upgrade if I don't have any problems with my P1? Don't really want to go through a factory reset and all that if I don't need to.


----------



## oneil50

OPTOMA Official said:


> Thanks for the details.
> 
> Can you confirm the model of the Pioneer AVR?
> 
> I assume the Shield is connected to HDMI 1 or 2?


This is a Pioneer VSX 930. 
Zidoo/shield/fire TV => HDMI in AVR => AVR HDMI out => P1 HDMI in 2. 
All my device are connected to hdmi in AVR and AVR connect to P1.
The colours are oversaturated when P1 comes back to SDR is really annoying with Zidoo Z9X. I met same problem with Zappiti box before and sometimes with Xbox one S.


----------



## Jan L

OPTOMA Official said:


> Please elaborate, all addressable bugs have been resolved or improved. ;-)


I remember a lot of mentions from users about Dynamic Black and Color Banding

I found recently: (Happens almost daily on days where I use it a long time)
1. Sometimes DB is just stuck in an oversaturaded mode and contrast and everything is broken until restart. Its like the DB algorithm is not running anymore.

General question: could you add a custom DB Mode in which I can set manually max/min brightness? During daytime watching its often getting too dark to watch. 

Thank you


----------



## Mick Seymour

I upgraded my UHZ65UST this morning. It went OK. I did a factory reset and re-entered my settings.

Screen Saver (Options > Personalise) has been renamed to Digital Gallery. I thought everyone knew what a screen saver was. I don't use it so I haven't investigated any change in functionality.

After the reset, I noticed that some settings, randomly, retained their pre-reset but not out-of-the-box values.

From the release notes:

5. Previous Firmware Upgrade Builds resulted in Audio Settings values of “zero or negative”
a. Audio Settings no longer display values of “zero or negative”.

Well, I can still turn the volume down to zero. Annoyingly, if I power down the PJ with the volume set to zero, when I power it up and increase the volume, there is no sound. I need to reboot with the volume set to something other than zero for audio to work. I logged a ticket on this 6 weeks ago and was told a fix was in the pipeline. Not happy to have to get back to support and I'm guessing wait another 6 months for a fix.


----------



## PanKas

It seems that the factory reset is only recommended but not needed, is this correct?
Are there any arguments in doing the factory reset in any case?


----------



## eedwards86

OPTOMA Official said:


> CinemaX P1 and CinemaX PRO FW Upgrade Release Notes
> 
> July 20th, 2021
> 
> Versions:
> System FW: 17.2
> 
> ** Factory Reset after update is recommended From the Launcher (Home Screen) go to Settings > System > Reset > Reset to Default . **
> 
> 1. Resolve handshake/connectivity issue when using 2.1/8K AVR (Denon, Yamaha, Marantz)
> a. Resolve snowy image, black image or sync loop when connecting projector to AVR.
> b. Resolve incorrect resolution when connecting projector to 2.1/8K AVR.
> c. NOTE: Please remember that long and or low-quality copper cables can produce similar connectivity issues. We highly recommend Active Fiber HDMI Cables for long cable runs (over 20-25 feet). Please be diligent.
> 
> 2. Modify Internal Speaker Delay to +/-150ms (Auto Settings)
> a. Allows greater range of adjustment to resolve Lip Sync and other Audio Alignment issues.
> b. This applies to the internal speaker only.
> 
> 3. Remove iQIYI App from the Marketplace
> a. This app is no longer supported.
> 
> 4. Discreet Power Off IR/BT support
> a. Added support for Discreet Power Off IR/BT Code. Complete IR/BT code list is available on the website product page for CinemaX P1 (under downloads).
> 
> 5. Previous Firmware Upgrade Builds resulted in Audio Settings values of zero or negative
> a. Audio Settings no longer display values of zero or negative .


This update did not fix connection problems for me. Attempted to play “The Tomorrow War” on Amazon Prime using Nvidia Shield at 4K 59.94hz and I still get snow and connection dropouts. I did a complete device reset after update. My AVR is Pioneer VSX-LX303. The connection pathway is:

All devices (Blu-Ray, Shield, etc) connected to AVR HDMI-IN ports.
AVR main HDMI OUT connected to HDMI IN on EZCOO
P1 connected to HDMI out on EZCOO

[ DEVICES -> AVR -> EZCOO -> P1 ]

I'm using BiFale 8K HDMI cables from the AVR to EZCOO and from EZCOO to P1. The HDMI cable from EZCOO to P1 is 40FT Fiber: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZK9P5VK/ and HDMI cable from AVR to EZCOO is 3FT: Amazon.com: BIFALE 8K HDMI Cable 3ft 2Pack, Nylon Braided 2.1 HDMI Cable Support Dolby Atmos, [email protected], [email protected], Dynamic HDR, eARC, 48Gpbs, Compatible with Apple TV, PS5, RTX3080 / 3090, RX 6800/6900 and More: Industrial & Scientific

This may have addressed HDMI 2.1 issues but still have it on 2.0.


----------



## akm3

Update has bricked my p1 (did its method from the menu after it prompted me for update) its in some loop with Linux text saying it might be corrupt and to do a factory reset with Try Again highlighted, but of course I can’t press enter or anything because I only have the remote.

/edit: Android not Linux. It just keeps going into a loop into recovery system, sits on try again for a minute: and then starts again. Not sure what to do. It says to use volume updown and power to make my selection but those aren’t doing anything


----------



## oneil50

eedwards86 said:


> This update did not fix connection problems for me. Attempted to play “The Tomorrow War” on Amazon Prime using Nvidia Shield at 4K 59.94hz and I still get snow and connection dropouts. I did a complete device reset after update. My AVR is Pioneer VSX-LX303. The connection pathway is:
> 
> All devices (Blu-Ray, Shield, etc) connected to AVR HDMI-IN ports.
> AVR main HDMI OUT connected to HDMI IN on EZCOO
> P1 connected to HDMI out on EZCOO
> 
> [ DEVICES -> AVR -> EZCOO -> P1 ]
> 
> I'm using BiFale 8K HDMI cables from the AVR to EZCOO and from EZCOO to P1. The HDMI cable from EZCOO to P1 is 40FT Fiber: Amazon.com: 8K Fiber HDMI Cable 40ft, BIFALE (CL3 Rated) HDMI 2.1 Fiber Optic Cable Support [email protected], [email protected], 48Gbps, eARC Compatible with Apple TV, Nintendo Switch, Roku, QLED 8K Q900 TV: Electronics and HDMI cable from AVR to EZCOO is 3FT: Amazon.com: BIFALE 8K HDMI Cable 3ft 2Pack, Nylon Braided 2.1 HDMI Cable Support Dolby Atmos, [email protected], [email protected], Dynamic HDR, eARC, 48Gpbs, Compatible with Apple TV, PS5, RTX3080 / 3090, RX 6800/6900 and More: Industrial & Scientific
> 
> This may have addressed HDMI 2.1 issues but still have it on 2.0.


Have you tried without ezcoo and with shield TV on 12 bit 4.2.2 ? This is the only way to works with my pioneer AVR.


----------



## Christian Spiga

I downloaded the firmware on the USB stick because On-Air is impossible, probably too many people think to find a peace with this update.

In the Instruction about the upgrade from USB is wrote :

*NOTE: The USB upgrade will reset all settings to default.**
*_NOTE: Factory Reset after update is recommended – From the Launcher (Home Screen) go to “Settings > System > Reset > Reset to Default”. *_

But if the USB upgrade will reset all the settings to default, why is reccomended to do a factory reset from the Launcher ?

I ask this question, because i was SOOOOOO STUPID to do the upgrade from the USB and then to Reset from the Launcher, and you know my friends what happened.

The Projector Stuck on the boot with the red sentence "Entering in recovery mode", after a while restart and again the same image, and again, and again.

Thanks GOD was possible to do again the firmware update from the USB stick that restore the projector on a normal mode.

The only real FACTORY RESET that is really necessary is about the OPTOMA brand.


----------



## eedwards86

oneil50 said:


> Have you tried without ezcoo and with shield TV on 12 bit 4.2.2 ? This is the only way to works with my pioneer AVR.


I removed the ezcoo from the equation so now the P1 is connected directly to AVR. On the shield I’m using display setting:

3840x2160 59.940 Hz
YUV 422 12-bit Rec 2020

I still get frequent dropouts, it goes to black video and acts like it’s reconnecting. What settings are you using?


----------



## oneil50

eedwards86 said:


> I removed the ezcoo from the equation so now the P1 is connected directly to AVR. On the shield I’m using display setting:
> 
> 3840x2160 59.940 Hz
> YUV 422 12-bit Rec 2020
> 
> I still get frequent dropouts, it goes to black video and acts like it’s reconnecting. What settings are you using?


Exactly the same setting. 
You have this problem 9nly on prime video ?


----------



## solal-

I've got an X2600H and add no problem of dropout before. Then two weeks ago I bought a X3700H and an Ezcoo, it worked well. I've made the update yesterday and remove the Ezcoo and use the projector during 3/4 hours without problem. I used it connected to my PC and the nvidia shield. I only use moshou 8k cable and for my PC (who as the longest cable) I use a standard cable but it still works. By the way I don't recommend cheap fiber cable, I used one to connect my PC to my X2600H before and (as you can see on amazon review) some of them produce too much voltage and it burn one of my HDMI port on my X2600H.


----------



## yknottavs

OPTOMA Official said:


> Please elaborate, all addressable bugs have been resolved or improved. ;-)


Nope, the P1 is still stuck with EDID 1.4 on HDMI 3, very disappointing.


----------



## akm3

Re-did my update with USB stick and it was able to successfully install.

HDMI 3 is missing though ? I appear to only have two HDMI ports now. Not sure what is up w/ that.


----------



## eedwards86

oneil50 said:


> Exactly the same setting.
> You have this problem 9nly on prime video ?


It drops out on any streaming service including Plex. If I run 23.98Hz it works fine. I simply can’t get 59.94 at UHD to work.


----------



## oneil50

eedwards86 said:


> It drops out on any streaming service including Plex. If I run 23.98Hz it works fine. I simply can’t get 59.94 at UHD to work.


I think you have hdmi cable fail or unstable.
I bought cable 50cm certified 4k 60hz 12 bit but creating every instability like you and any on 24fps. When I used back my very old cable everything was alright.
Actually got moshou hdmi 2.1 fiber and it's all good.
I tried since update Kodi 3h and prime video 2h no problems.


----------



## eedwards86

oneil50 said:


> I think you have hdmi cable fail or unstable.
> I bought cable 50cm certified 4k 60hz 12 bit but creating every instability like you and any on 24fps. When I used back my very old cable everything was alright.
> Actually got moshou hdmi 2.1 fiber and it's all good.
> I tried since update Kodi 3h and prime video 2h no problems.


ive tried no less than 3 hdmi cables, all active or fiber with same issue. If I hook up a 4K tv, all works fine at 60Hz.


----------



## oneil50

eedwards86 said:


> ive tried no less than 3 hdmi cables, all active or fiber with same issue. If I hook up a 4K tv, all works fine at 60Hz.


I look a movie on Disney +, got 3 fast flash.... But any lost signal.


----------



## eedwards86

oneil50 said:


> I look a movie on Disney +, got 3 fast flash.... But any lost signal.


Thanks for the info. I've noticed that the dropouts aren't as severe as they used to be. Sometimes it's just a black flicker and the image returns. Sometimes it's a few lines throughout the video and it goes away. Either way, there is still some bug that exists with some HDMI 2.0 AVR's that has yet to be resolved. I highly doubt that Optoma will give that any attention however as their goal was to fix the HDMI 2.1 issue. It sounds like everyone else with 2.1 AVRs seem to be working now so maybe our only option is to upgrade our receivers.


----------



## oneil50

eedwards86 said:


> Thanks for the info. I've noticed that the dropouts aren't as severe as they used to be. Sometimes it's just a black flicker and the image returns. Sometimes it's a few lines throughout the video and it goes away. Either way, there is still some bug that exists with some HDMI 2.0 AVR's that has yet to be resolved. I highly doubt that Optoma will give that any attention however as their goal was to fix the HDMI 2.1 issue. It sounds like everyone else with 2.1 AVRs seem to be working now so maybe our only option is to upgrade our receivers.


Indeed optoma never try to resolve problem with pioneer AVR. We reported these problems months ago.....
I will not update my AVR I will buy VAVA UST and sell this Optima Buggy P1.


----------



## Sanepidi

Sincerely that 17.2 is bad update if you ask me.
I bought my Optoma 11.2020 and had all the time HDMI 2.1 problems with Dennon and Yamaha. Couldn't even watch 3D movies because of it... Optoma Support or Dennon weren't able to help me...
No one was interested in helping with that issue and told me to contact PJ or Receiver producer.

*Buy HD Fury Vertex, Vertex 2 or Diva *- easy set up. Just connect devices, plug in and ready. No drop out's..........

*I have Vertex 1. *With Vertex 2 or DIVA you can even easily force LLDV to Optoma PJ (Dolby Vision)

*Optoma thanks for C17.2 *- somehow you managed to downgrade 4k signal to 1080p to fix that HDMI2.1 problem. 
Yes I did it myself back 2020. It worked even without you 17.2 Update.... Just switch you HDMI 2.0 do 1.4.... Thanks.

Now after C17.2 I had to *force with my Amazon fire Cube 4k Signal *because auto detect won't work now and gives me 1080p only and in addition *without my HD Fury Vertex *I wouldn't be able to force 4k60 connection between receiver and PJ.* Optoma with receiver connects all the time HDMI 1080p.* So all movies without Fury were only 1080p all the time.

Am I the only one that get only 1080p instead of 4k connection after that update without supporting devices like Vertex?


----------



## Sanepidi

oneil50 said:


> I look a movie on Disney +, got 3 fast flash.... But any lost signal.





eedwards86 said:


> Thanks for the info. I've noticed that the dropouts aren't as severe as they used to be. Sometimes it's just a black flicker and the image returns. Sometimes it's a few lines throughout the video and it goes away. Either way, there is still some bug that exists with some HDMI 2.0 AVR's that has yet to be resolved. I highly doubt that Optoma will give that any attention however as their goal was to fix the HDMI 2.1 issue. It sounds like everyone else with 2.1 AVRs seem to be working now so maybe our only option is to upgrade our receivers.


*Buy HD Fury Vertex, Vertex 2, Diva or cheaper Atlona UHD to fix all issues. But it is sad to use additional devices to fix it... *

Cabel as long as they stay short won't make any problems... 9€ 4k60 cabel in lenght of max 3-5 m won't cause any dropouts. *Only if you put cheap bad isolated* cabel near big subwoofer, speaker or power cabels can cause some dropouts.


----------



## SebastienR.

Did they just pull the 17.2 update ? It doesn't show anymore when I try to update.


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## Christian Spiga

SebastienR. said:


> Did they just pull the 17.2 update ? It doesn't show anymore when I try to update.


AHAHAHAHA..........Really? 
I cannot believe they did it again?
We are beta testers here and nobody now.....ahahh


----------



## Christian Spiga

1 week of silence? the forum is broken?


----------



## Mick Seymour

Nope. Been on holiday. Fingers crossed the PJ turns on tonight


----------



## jhbball2002

Anyone with a Fury Arcana for Dolby vision that's able to post their HDR/SDR settings - perhaps using 100% power as a baseline? Dynamic Black is still broken. Image still not popping as much as I would like.

Also - is there a way to verify the color wheel is working correctly?


----------



## Jan L

jhbball2002 said:


> Anyone with a Fury Arcana for Dolby vision that's able to post their HDR/SDR settings - perhaps using 100% power as a baseline? Dynamic Black is still broken. Image still not popping as much as I would like.
> 
> Also - is there a way to verify the color wheel is working correctly?


I dont remember the combination, but you can enter a debugmenu from the remote with several options to check that. Basically you need to have a rec.20.20 Color image and see If you have crushed transitions.


----------



## SebastienR.

Those with an HDFury Arcana (or other comparable products) I'm interested in your Max Luminance setting that you set in the LLDV menu. I read 600 in this forum 10 pages ago. Other values maybe?


----------



## manekinek0

Hi everyone,

This is my first post.

I bought an Optoma P1 almost 2 years ago and I encountered several bugs.
But the most annoying was the black screen during 5 seconds every 20 minutes (I checked with a chronometer and it is exactly every 20 minutes) in "gaming" mode.

I sent the projector to the after-sales service once month ago and I just received it yesterday.

I hoped that everything was fixed. They replaced the two motherboards.

But I tried yesterday evening and the black screens are still here.

Does anyone else have the same issue?
Did someone succeed to fix this by using a specific type of HDMI cable or some specific parameters?

😢


----------



## Mick Seymour

manekinek0 said:


> But the most annoying was the black screen during 5 seconds every 20 minutes (I checked with a chronometer and it is exactly every 20 minutes) in "gaming" mode.


I wonder if the Digital Gallery (System > Personalise > Digital Gallery) is set to come on after 20 minutes with no pictures to show so it shows a black screen. I know it sounds stupid but my UHZ65UST turns off after 20 minutes when Auto Power Off (System > Power) is set to 20 minutes, even when receiving a video signal, so I had to set it to 0. The firmware on these devices is so stupid, anything could happen.


----------



## manekinek0

Mick Seymour said:


> I wonder if the Digital Gallery (System > Personalise > Digital Gallery) is set to come on after 20 minutes with no pictures to show so it shows a black screen. I know it sounds stupid but my UHZ65UST turns off after 20 minutes when Auto Power Off (System > Power) is set to 20 minutes, even when receiving a video signal, so I had to set it to 0. The firmware on these devices is so stupid, anything could happen.


Thanks for your help, Mick! I will definitively do some tests by removing the Digital Gallery. I will keep you posted!


----------



## oneil50

Hello,
Some of you have this problem ?
Zidoo player is in SDR in the menus. When I launch an HDR movie, the projector switches to HDR but when I return to the menu at the end of the movie, the colors are oversaturated. The projector displays although it is in SDR. I have to launch the home menu of the projector and then go back to the audio hdmi source to get the colors become normal.
There is no problem with Shield TV.
I searched for a long time and the only thing I noticed is that : when I launch a movie on the zidoo there is a very small cut in the video stream to change the parameters unlike the Shield which does not cut the flux. 
Do you have this problem too ?


----------



## Christian Spiga

October is here.....and with him a lot UHZ65UST warranty will expire, like mine.

Thanks Optoma for this 2 unuseful years of unuseful firmware updates.

Nothing is really changed, Now i need only to pray that my projector will not crash or start to have problem, because i cannot image how much they will wanto to repair.

I HOPE YOU WILL FAIL OPTOMA


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## manekinek0

Mick Seymour said:


> I wonder if the Digital Gallery (System > Personalise > Digital Gallery) is set to come on after 20 minutes with no pictures to show so it shows a black screen.


Just to let you know that I made some tests and that my black screen issue is still there.
I will try to use different HDMI cables, just in case, but I am desperate...


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## oneil50

I bought a new AVR marantz (SR6012) in place of my pioneer.
Now HDMI connection is stable, no more drop out or snow effect. 
The problem wasn't pioneer AVR because I tried with BenQ HT3550 and no issue. The problem WAS the Optoma P1.
It's a shame that the last update of the projector did not solve the problems with the Pioneer amplifiers but only Denon/marantz.
I always have the over-saturated color problem with my zidoo at the end of an HDR movie.


----------



## tambur123

Hi guys, do you have any news when a new firmware will be released? I’m starting to get more and more hdmi drop outs out of the blue with apple tv 4k 2021 connected directly to the projector.

The only thing that make them go away for a few days is if I switch the refresh rate between 50hz and 60hz back and forth, wtf.


----------



## Jan L

I recently got a shiny bright white dead pixel...any chance to get this fixed? If it was black, okay...but white and bright is pretty annoying left center of the screen:-(


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## zekonavsforum

Hi, 

I have some dust/dirt problem inside the unit, impact a zone of the image ( it's not the screen .. checked it ). After cleaning, the external glass side, nothing, so i think on the internal glass side.
It may be a dead little insect, or some part of it. Anyway , i want to correctly open, clean it ( maybe fans too), and reclose it.

Does anyone already tried to do this ? I need pro tips ( nothing found like tutos or videos on internet )


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## Mick Seymour

tambur123 said:


> Hi guys, do you have any news when a new firmware will be released?


I've been told November by Optoma support. The only thing I know is fixed, as I reported the bug, is using volume down until level is at zero, then turning off the PJ, you can't get volume back at the next reboot, needing a further reboot.


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## tambur123

Mick Seymour said:


> I've been told November by Optoma support. The only thing I know is fixed, as I reported the bug, is using volume down until level is at zero, then turning off the PJ, you can't get volume back at the next reboot, needing a further reboot.


Great, thanks! I’m patiently waiting for a Christmas miracle.


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## Christian Spiga

My warranty is expired in October, OPTOMA never solved the real problems, and know i start also to see white pixels. Perfect in time OPTOMA, good JOB, know i´m courious to know how much you are so brave to ask me for the fixing.

I hate you soo much


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## Mick Seymour

Christian Spiga said:


> My warranty is expired in October, OPTOMA never solved the real problems, and know i start also to see white pixels.


Has the projector been replaced under warranty in the last 2 years? If so, I would log a call with the serial number of the replacement and the date the replacement was received.


----------



## Christian Spiga

Mick Seymour said:


> Has the projector been replaced under warranty in the last 2 years? If so, I would log a call with the serial number of the replacement and the date the replacement was received.


Never replaced, just fixed 1 time because focus problems and color wheel loud


----------



## g3m

For anyone curious about the possible results of using an HDFury Arcana for LLDV->HDR10, here are 2 pictures taken with an iPhone 8 of the same scene from the Dolby Vision encoded title "Our Planet - Coastal Seas" (Netflix) running on an ATV4K.

One is with the default HDR10 output and the other with LLDV enabled.

The image is projected on a Vividstorm UST ALR screen in low light conditions.

P1 is configured with default HDR settings with 100% brightness instead of Dynamic Black 1.

HDFury Arcana is configured with : HDR : Auto, LLDV->HDR10 : On, BT2020 Primaries, Min Lum 0, Max Lum 1000.








Here is another comparison, this time taken with an iPhone 13 Pro to try to capture the HDR in a darker scene from Avengers Endgame (IMAX Enhanced version) on Disney Plus.









Take these pictures with a grain of salt since capturing HDR images with a phone has its limitations


----------



## jhbball2002

So what are your thoughts about it? Comparison seem pretty subtle, curious about your take though.


----------



## g3m

I had time to test some more and it seems the contrast is a bit better when using LLDV vs HDR10. It's subtle, but if you are looking to improve your image a bit, I think you should try it.

You can see it clearly in this scene of Our Planet (DV title) on Netflix.

Here in HDR10 :










Compared to LLDV below (1000 nits max luminance). For example, the parts of the mountain that are not covered by snow in the background are popping a bit more. The turquoise color in the water and its reflection on the glacier seems a bit more saturated.










I also tried LLDV with a lower max luminance of 500 nits. The contrast seems a bit worst than 1000 nits. I think I prefer max lum at 1000 nits. It seems to generally be an acceptable value based on other posts I've seen on this topic.


----------



## Taran12345

Has anyone had any experience with using Audioquest HDMI cables, specifically the cinnamon range?

I've been experiencing issues with both 4k and 4k HDMI cables whereby white lines would randomly be displayed (video here Streamable Video) on the screen as well as occasional full white screen or blank screen followed by reconnection. If I switch HDMI EDID to 1.4 it appears to fix any connection issues.

Ironically, I have no display issues when I use other HDMI cables which are comparatively much cheaper such as the one that comes with the original Nintendo Switch.

My set up is:

Firestick 4k -> NAD T778 receiver -> UHZ65UST (P1)

I'm on firmware C17.2 and also wondering if EDID/ source switching became worse with this version.


----------



## Satriales1

Hi guys,

Couple of recent problems I've just discovered:

1) Cannot turn off the PJ either with the remote or power button on the unit. I have to remove the power cord.

2) I cannot access the display settings anymore. It appears to be in user mode which was my preference but now I have no choice to calibrate or adjust picture settings. 

Both are soooo frustrating!

Does anyone know a way to sort these problems please?

Many thanks!


----------



## gekala

About this phanomen

I had the same problem last week. I unpluged the power cord. After that i waited about 5 minutes then i connect the power cord again. After the restart i had no problem to access all the device settings. You can carry out my procedure, perhaps it may help. But of course i agree with you its frustrating for a divice in this price class.


----------



## Alsour99

manekinek0 said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> This is my first post.
> 
> I bought an Optoma P1 almost 2 years ago and I encountered several bugs.
> But the most annoying was the black screen during 5 seconds every 20 minutes (I checked with a chronometer and it is exactly every 20 minutes) in "gaming" mode.
> 
> I sent the projector to the after-sales service once month ago and I just received it yesterday.
> 
> I hoped that everything was fixed. They replaced the two motherboards.
> 
> But I tried yesterday evening and the black screens are still here.
> 
> Does anyone else have the same issue?
> Did someone succeed to fix this by using a specific type of HDMI cable or some specific parameters?
> 
> 😢


Hello everyone,

This is my first post too and with the same issue. The gaming mode gives me a black screen every 21 minutes. I have tried different sources and hdmi cable but not nothing worked… 

Have you or someone else figured it out ?


----------



## manekinek0

Alsour99 said:


> Hello everyone,
> 
> This is my first post too and with the same issue. The gaming mode gives me a black screen every 21 minutes. I have tried different sources and hdmi cable but not nothing worked…
> 
> Have you or someone else figured it out ?


Hi Alsour,

First of all, I feel sorry that you got this issue too...but I am also glad to know that someone has got the same issue than me (Optoma said to me two weeks ago that I was the only one having this problem in the entire Europe!).

The projector is currently in Optoma customer service for the third time (they did not find/solve the issue the first two times, neither by trying to find/solve the issue by phone one month ago). I will keep you posted!


----------



## copperfield74

Did anyone of you recognize artefacts in some scenes, especially in glare white scenes? It reminds me of old bootleged movies that had high compression. It's not in every scene but often enough to be recognized. Any ideas how to solve the probelm? I've already changed the bitrate in my 4k Firestick to automatic but still the same problem.


----------



## oneil50

copperfield74 said:


> Did anyone of you recognize artefacts in some scenes, especially in glare white scenes? It reminds me of old bootleged movies that had high compression. It's not in every scene but often enough to be recognized. Any ideas how to solve the probelm? I've already changed the bitrate in my 4k Firestick to automatic but still the same problem.


Can you post some picture ?


----------



## copperfield74

oneil50 said:


> Can you post some picture ?


I will try to get some pictures tonight!


----------



## g3m

copperfield74 said:


> Did anyone of you recognize artefacts in some scenes, especially in glare white scenes? It reminds me of old bootleged movies that had high compression. It's not in every scene but often enough to be recognized. Any ideas how to solve the probelm? I've already changed the bitrate in my 4k Firestick to automatic but still the same problem.


Do you have Dynamic Black activated ? I found that it can cause similar issues in some scene.


----------



## PanKas

Do you mean maybe something like this?
I see this mainly in bright areas or on skin of the cast. 
This is indeed caused when I have Dynamic Black activated. Someone in another forum told me that this issue should be resolved once the Optoma has been calibrated.


----------



## oneil50

PanKas said:


> Do you mean maybe something like this?
> I see this mainly in bright areas or on skin of the cast.
> This is indeed caused when I have Dynamic Black activated. Someone in another forum told me that this issue should be resolved once the Optoma has been calibrated.
> 
> View attachment 3224086


Never seen this on mine


----------



## gekala

Shame on you Optoma. PanKas ...it's correct, that's exactly the reason why "Dynamic black" is not usuable since the narket entry of the P1/ USZ65UST. All previous firmware updates have not improved anything in this regard. It seems to be an unsolvable problem of the used colorwheel. An aqurate calibration also -seems difficult.


----------



## g3m

Other Optoma projectors seems to have same issue with the dynamic black feature. For example, look at this review of the UHZ50 from December 2021 Test Optoma UHZ50 : l’avis de Grégory. – – Le Blog de PHC – Although I find that dynamic black is nice to add contrast in dark scenes, this type of color banding and the noticeable luminosity variation between scenes is too much of a drawback for me. Hopefully this is a feature they could improve in the future.


----------



## copperfield74

I don't have Dynamic Black activated. This is just a quick snapshot from yesterday. It lokks like these could be clouds, but the aren't. This also happens with HDR content.


----------



## copperfield74

Autsch.... that's really bad! Optoma will never ever again earn money from me! It's a shame what they call customer support.


PanKas said:


> Do you mean maybe something like this?
> I see this mainly in bright areas or on skin of the cast.
> This is indeed caused when I have Dynamic Black activated. Someone in another forum told me that this issue should be resolved once the Optoma has been calibrated.
> 
> View attachment 3224086


----------



## oneil50

copperfield74 said:


> I don't have Dynamic Black activated. This is just a quick snapshot from yesterday. It lokks like these could be clouds, but the aren't. This also happens with HDR content.
> View attachment 3224844
> View attachment 3224845


Are you on 10 bit of 8bit hdmi setting ?


----------



## Mick Seymour

copperfield74 said:


> I don't have Dynamic Black activated. This is just a quick snapshot from yesterday. It lokks like these could be clouds, but the aren't. This also happens with HDR content.


I had the exact same problem with my last UHZ65UST. I did manage to remove most of it with PJ calibration but wasn't totally happy. Optoma couldn't find fault during their testing but they did swap out the PJ as they said the 'combiner' could be faulty. That one was fine for about 4 months but the problem has returned. 

My PJ Dynamic Black is turned off as I've never liked the results.


----------



## gekala

Mick Symour my experience are similar. Special is, that one day the projection quality- is very good but the next day the picture contraste and the picture colors are bad without change any setting parameters. The signal quality of the connected devieces can also be ruled out. The results are identical with the connected Panasonic dmr-ubc70 and the google chromcast tv 4k. The reason could be the synchronisation of the color wheel.


----------



## oneil50

Mick Seymour said:


> I had the exact same problem with my last UHZ65UST. I did manage to remove most of it with PJ calibration but wasn't totally happy. Optoma couldn't find fault during their testing but they did swap out the PJ as they said the 'combiner' could be faulty. That one was fine for about 4 months but the problem has returned.
> 
> My PJ Dynamic Black is turned off as I've never liked the results.


What source are you using (device + file) ? No problem with source on 10 bit hdmi. But it could appear on 8 bit and bad quality stream encoded.


----------



## Mick Seymour

oneil50 said:


> What source are you using (device + file) ? No problem with source on 10 bit hdmi. But it could appear on 8 bit and bad quality stream encoded.


A Zgemma Freesat box watching UK BBC1. 8 bit and the bit rate of the material is just over 3000 kb/s. I've noticed it on some DVDs as well but can't remember which ones to double check


----------



## copperfield74

oneil50 said:


> Are you on 10 bit of 8bit hdmi setting ?


Good question… I checked and all is played in 8 bit & 4.2.0! I know that my bit rate was higher. Tried to change it but no success. Changed HDMI settings from 2.0 to 1.4 and back but still 8 bit. My die TV sticks seeing is „up to 12 bit“. You have to love this piece of modern technology.


----------



## oneil50

For HDR content you have to use 10 bit hdmi setting. 
If you play it on 8 bit some banding can appear.
On SDR I think it's problem with encoded stream.


----------



## copperfield74

oneil50 said:


> For HDR content you have to use 10 bit hdmi setting.
> If you play it on 8 bit some banding can appear.
> On SDR I think it's problem with encoded stream.


I would like to change my settings to 10 bit, but how can I do that? The HDMI setting are already on 2.0! Did I miss something? I know that in the past it was 10 bit. I haven't changed anything on my setup. My content is streamt with 4k Fire TV Stick. And there the bit rate is also to "up to 12 bit". What settings can I change further?


----------



## Atlantis88

copperfield74 said:


> I don't have Dynamic Black activated. This is just a quick snapshot from yesterday. It lokks like these could be clouds, but the aren't. This also happens with HDR content.
> View attachment 3224844
> View attachment 3224845


I think it's the BrilliantColor to blame. You can shut it down by setting BrilliantColor to 1. Yes, you will lose a lot of brightness, but the contrast and color will be better. Face it, single-chip DLP just can't output that much color brightness. BrilliantColor is just an algorithm to boost the brightness of white areas, it's fake and causes abnormal images. Maybe other manufacturers have better algorithms to solve some of them, I don't know, Optoma obviously doesn't.


----------



## copperfield74

I've made another observation.
There is an ad, that plays on TV and on Youtube. When the ad plays on Youtube I have these artefacts like mentioned above....but the same ad played on cable TV doesn't have these artefacts. So I think that it could be some kind of streaming problem? With that I mean different resolutions maybe?


----------



## jhbball2002

Has anyone found a fix or workaround for the vertical tearing in game mode on the latest firmware? There's a line right down the center of the picture, if you move a camera in-game side to side.


----------



## Clavox

mbarac said:


> *Hard reset*
> 
> The UHZ65UST is dead after 14.3 driver update,
> 
> can I do a hard reset ( some combination of power button and something)
> 
> anyone knows ?
> 
> Thank you,


Hi, I´m having the same problem. How did you manage to solve it? Thanks


----------



## Mick Seymour

I recommend you open a support ticket with Optoma. They should be able to help.


----------



## tulaib.saleem

Great Comment from all of Them. Nice


----------



## Bikerboy444

manekinek0 said:


> Hi Alsour,
> 
> First of all, I feel sorry that you got this issue too...but I am also glad to know that someone has got the same issue than me (Optoma said to me two weeks ago that I was the only one having this problem in the entire Europe!).
> 
> The projector is currently in Optoma customer service for the third time (they did not find/solve the issue the first two times, neither by trying to find/solve the issue by phone one month ago). I will keep you posted!


Hi there!

I have the same Problem like you! - and only in gaming mode! After some time, i get a few seconds black screen! All the time.. For online gaming you can forget it this way! .. you have a solve till today? Greets from germany

Jörn


manekinek0 said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> This is my first post.
> 
> I bought an Optoma P1 almost 2 years ago and I encountered several bugs.
> But the most annoying was the black screen during 5 seconds every 20 minutes (I checked with a chronometer and it is exactly every 20 minutes) in "gaming" mode.
> 
> I sent the projector to the after-sales service once month ago and I just received it yesterday.
> 
> I hoped that everything was fixed. They replaced the two motherboards.
> 
> But I tried yesterday evening and the black screens are still here.
> 
> Does anyone else have the same issue?
> Did someone succeed to fix this by using a specific type of HDMI cable or some specific parameters?
> 
> 😢


Hi there!

I have the same Problem like you! - only in gaming mode! After some time, i get a few seconds black screen! For online gaming you can forget it this way! .. you have a solve till today? Greets from germany

Jörn


----------

