# Replacing rechargeable Epson 3D glasses battery



## av_eddie

The battery on one of my pairs of Epson 3D glasses (model ELPGS03) no longer takes a charge. I took them apart and found a battery that had "3.7V .15Wh" on it. After doing a little research, I was able to find that the ".15Wh" is the watt hours and the amperage is 0.040540540540541, or about 40mah. I found 3.7v, 40mah polymer lithium ion batteries for sale on the web. Is this the same type of battery used in the glasses? It seems so, but I have never heard of "polymer Lithium Ion" batteries. I had been charging my glasses from a computer usb port, but there are a lot of warnings with these batteries about how they are charged and how the upper limit for charging is 4.2V. Can these be used as a replacement? I attached a pic of the existing battery. Here is an example of one of the sites selling batteries: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13852

I would appreciate any help.

Thanks


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## pgillmore

*Not Any Help Just More Problems*

I have the same problem with my Epson 3D glasses (same model). How did you get them apart? I would also like some help with battery replacement.

Sorry couldn't help more


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## qianglipa

*Have you ever been able to replace the battery?*

Have you been able to replace the battery?

I got into the same situation. Two new pairs of Epson 3D glasses are dead on delivery!!


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## ftothe3

resurrecting the thread! I took the leap and ordered a couple of these batteries:

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/tinycircuits/ASR00011/1832-1045-ND/8680975

They are a bit thicker than the original batteries but they do fit fine in the casing. The replacement does require you to know how to solder, so it's not for everyone.


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## gentis

ftothe3 said:


> resurrecting the thread! I took the leap and ordered a couple of these batteries:
> 
> https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/tinycircuits/ASR00011/1832-1045-ND/8680975
> 
> They are a bit thicker than the original batteries but they do fit fine in the casing. The replacement does require you to know how to solder, so it's not for everyone.


I have disassembled glasses in the center but can’t see how to detach around the earpieces. How did you do that? Thanks


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## titan ii

gentis said:


> I have disassembled glasses in the center but can’t see how to detach around the earpieces. How did you do that? Thanks



Fold the glasses and look into the end where the earpieces fold to. There are two screws on each side. I just did one yesterday.


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## gentis

titan ii said:


> Fold the glasses and look into the end where the earpieces fold to. There are two screws on each side. I just did one yesterday.


Got it, thanks! I missed seeing them. 
How hard was it to replace the battery?
Where did you buy replacement battery?


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## titan ii

gentis said:


> Got it, thanks! I missed seeing them.
> How hard was it to replace the battery?
> Where did you buy replacement battery?


I only took them apart to see what I needed. I ordered 6 batteries from China for 10.50. Otherwise, it would be 8.00 for a single one here in the states. I am not getting the 70mah mentioned in a post above, but am getting ones like what is in it. 
Go on ebay and search 401215.


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## gentis

titan ii said:


> I only took them apart to see what I needed. I ordered 6 batteries from China for 10.50. Otherwise, it would be 8.00 for a single one here in the states. I am not getting the 70mah mentioned in a post above, but am getting ones like what is in it.
> Go on ebay and search 401215.


Thanks. Did those batteries work?


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## titan ii

gentis said:


> Thanks. Did those batteries work?


I just ordered them yesterday. I do not see why they will not. They have the same specifications.


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## titan ii

gentis said:


> Thanks. Did those batteries work?


Yes. "Slight" difference in physical dimensions, but it fits fine. Electrical specs are the same. New one is on bottom.


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## SlavaSk

*Screwdriver?*



titan ii said:


> Fold the glasses and look into the end where the earpieces fold to. There are two screws on each side. I just did one yesterday.


Could you please tell what kind of screwdriver you used to unscrew the screw in the middle?


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## kungfuman

SlavaSk said:


> Could you please tell what kind of screwdriver you used to unscrew the screw in the middle?


anyone find this out? it seems to be a very small torx head size...


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## avtoronto

So the consensus is you need to solder any replacement battery to install it in the glasses?


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## expired56k

I just replaced batteries in two pairs of my glasses (got them new from eBay but they sat for too long so batteries wouldn't charge; probably would be the case with many of these glasses since they've been discontinued for a while now). To open the frame you need a tiny torx and phillips (torx is T4 and phillips PH000 or PH00 works, it seems PH00 fits better though; if you have one of these iFixIt kits then you have all you need to open the case). There is one torx holding a nose piece, and two more underneath. There are two phillips screws in the inner side of the frame and two more on each end in the hinge, you must fold the glasses to see them. You must have a plastic spudger or guitar pick to open the case. With all screws removed gently pull around hinge area inward to get it open, then work with a spudger inward towards the nose piece. I got a pair of batteries from a DigiKey link above because eBay ones seemed too shady and I was worried about it being a fire hazard. Anyway, DigiKey batteries did work fine, however they are too thick and I could barely get the cover back on. I were able to close it but it is definitely pushing a bit so there's a slight opening in the cover. It is not too apparent though. The wires are a bit thicker which makes them difficult to route. You have to route them because edge of the board is almost touching the housing and there's probably a millimeter or two of clearance from the battery PCB pads. The pads are very small with little spacing in between and lots of other components around them. PCB doesn't come out of the housing so you have to hold the soldering iron on a 45 degree angle or so (I have a professional temperature controller soldering station with a pencil iron, used a thin needle tip at 350 degrees; solder is lead free. You absolute must have a thin tip in order to be able to solder this, it's incredibly tiny). I did slightly burn the housing trying on my first pair while trying to get through the factory solder (hint: use flux or apply new solder over the factory solder joint to make it melt easily with little effort).


So yeah, you do have to solder in your new battery. You may be able to get a small inline connector and cut old battery wire and attach it to a connector or directly solder old battery wire to new battery wire. I actually wish I did that instead of soldering to original pads as it was a real pain in the butt and I could barely see them even with a magnifying glass lamp. You have to be really careful to not short the wires. I got them soldered properly but as I was trying to position the wire my first attempt resulted in a short but I caught it just in time as battery got really hot. I cleared the short with a plastic spudger and then used some electrical tape to insulate the contacts (physically bending wires in opposite direction helped a lot as well). I would recommend a different battery that is a bit thinner than that from DigiKey, however it did work and charges but with it being too thick you cannot make a perfect repair. So yeah, all in all both of my glasses are working and I'm fairly happy with results. I would be 100% happy if battery thickness was just as OEM. I couldn't find the exact OEM battery specs though. Maybe those eBay ones are the right size but I would never buy a battery from unknown source, just too risky in terms of fire safety.


I've attached some pics, sorry I didn't take one reassembled where you can see the case doesn't fully close (it is very minor though, just a small split at the top above the nosepiece since there are no screws in that area). I mean you do use these in the dark anyway, so I just didn't care to redo it for this minor issue. You can see a pic of original battery, DigiKey battery side by side with original and with battery removed. OEM battery markers are there but I couldn't find one just like that, wouldn't be surprised if it's some generic or customer battery that was made for Epson/Seiko.


Anyway, hope it helps guys! Good luck! I'm happy to answer any questions since I just repaired mine.


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## avtoronto

expired56k said:


> I just replaced batteries in two pairs of my glasses (got them new from eBay but they sat for too long so batteries wouldn't charge; probably would be the case with many of these glasses since they've been discontinued for a while now). To open the frame you need a tiny torx and phillips (torx is T4 and phillips PH000 or PH00 works, it seems PH00 fits better though; if you have one of these iFixIt kits then you have all you need to open the case). There is one torx holding a nose piece, and two more underneath. There are two phillips screws in the inner side of the frame and two more on each end in the hinge, you must fold the glasses to see them. You must have a plastic spudger or guitar pick to open the case. With all screws removed gently pull around hinge area inward to get it open, then work with a spudger inward towards the nose piece. I got a pair of batteries from a DigiKey link above because eBay ones seemed too shady and I was worried about it being a fire hazard. Anyway, DigiKey batteries did work fine, however they are too thick and I could barely get the cover back on. I were able to close it but it is definitely pushing a bit so there's a slight opening in the cover. It is not too apparent though. The wires are a bit thicker which makes them difficult to route. You have to route them because edge of the board is almost touching the housing and there's probably a millimeter or two of clearance from the battery PCB pads. The pads are very small with little spacing in between and lots of other components around them. PCB doesn't come out of the housing so you have to hold the soldering iron on a 45 degree angle or so (I have a professional temperature controller soldering station with a pencil iron, used a thin needle tip at 350 degrees; solder is lead free. You absolute must have a thin tip in order to be able to solder this, it's incredibly tiny). I did slightly burn the housing trying on my first pair while trying to get through the factory solder (hint: use flux or apply new solder over the factory solder joint to make it melt easily with little effort).
> 
> 
> So yeah, you do have to solder in your new battery. You may be able to get a small inline connector and cut old battery wire and attach it to a connector or directly solder old battery wire to new battery wire. I actually wish I did that instead of soldering to original pads as it was a real pain in the butt and I could barely see them even with a magnifying glass lamp. You have to be really careful to not short the wires. I got them soldered properly but as I was trying to position the wire my first attempt resulted in a short but I caught it just in time as battery got really hot. I cleared the short with a plastic spudger and then used some electrical tape to insulate the contacts (physically bending wires in opposite direction helped a lot as well). I would recommend a different battery that is a bit thinner than that from DigiKey, however it did work and charges but with it being too thick you cannot make a perfect repair. So yeah, all in all both of my glasses are working and I'm fairly happy with results. I would be 100% happy if battery thickness was just as OEM. I couldn't find the exact OEM battery specs though. Maybe those eBay ones are the right size but I would never buy a battery from unknown source, just too risky in terms of fire safety.
> 
> 
> I've attached some pics, sorry I didn't take one reassembled where you can see the case doesn't fully close (it is very minor though, just a small split at the top above the nosepiece since there are no screws in that area). I mean you do use these in the dark anyway, so I just didn't care to redo it for this minor issue. You can see a pic of original battery, DigiKey battery side by side with original and with battery removed. OEM battery markers are there but I couldn't find one just like that, wouldn't be surprised if it's some generic or customer battery that was made for Epson/Seiko.
> 
> 
> Anyway, hope it helps guys! Good luck! I'm happy to answer any questions since I just repaired mine.


Thank you very much for providing such detailed steps. I have to confess I find the whole process intimidating as I have not soldered anything in my life! I find it surprising that Epson designed the glasses’ battery compartment in this way. I will have to find the batteries then see if I can find someone who can install one.

Your post exhibits the best part of AVS Forum, taking the time to provide really helpful, detailed information. Thank you.


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## expired56k

avtoronto said:


> Thank you very much for providing such detailed steps. I have to confess I find the whole process intimidating as I have not soldered anything in my life! I find it surprising that Epson designed the glasses’ battery compartment in this way. I will have to find the batteries then see if I can find someone who can install one.
> 
> Your post exhibits the best part of AVS Forum, taking the time to provide really helpful, detailed information. Thank you.



You're welcome! Given my experience with this repair, I think if you get a properly sized battery it would be best to just splice the old battery wires with new battery wires. It will avoid micro soldering and you can do it much more easily (if you have heat-shrink tubing you can probably just get away with twisting the wires together and tighten and insulate with heat-shrink tube). I kind of with I thought of that first before I desoldered the original battery wires from the PCB. It would have been easier if the board can come out of the glasses frame though. If you find a properly fitting battery from a reputable source such as DigiKey, Mouser, Newark, etc. please kindly post a link or item number. If someone has a micrometer it would be neat to measure the original battery but they all likely swelled up by the time replacement is needed so not sure how useful that would be. Regarding Epson design, they clearly designed it with a somewhat limited lifecycle (I think the glasses are actually made/designed by Seiko and just rebranded by Epson; maybe custom made for Epson but they do say Seiko on the label). They could have put an SMD socket and not solder it to the board or better put a rechargeable coin cell (or heck, even disposable). With original MSRP of over $100 per set, they clearly could have done better. I really do not know why they did it this way but clearly servicing was not on their minds, maybe so people go buy a new set (ain't that the truth with our disposable society). Definitely a weird choice for a high end product. However I think my NVidia 3D Vision glasses are likely no different. I haven't used them in a long time since I don't own a 3D Vision monitor anymore. I might take them apart just for the hell of it if I find them in my parts bins.


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## therealdjnugz

@expired56k You're a life saver!Just bought two brand new pairs and were dead on arrival. I'm a controls electrician so soldering will not be an issue. Can you post a picture of the glasses assembled with the new battery? I'm curious to see the split in the casing. Thanks! I ordered four batteries so I can replace the batteries in my current pairs if the batteries give out in those eventually.


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## expired56k

therealdjnugz said:


> @*expired56k* You're a life saver!Just bought two brand new pairs and were dead on arrival. I'm a controls electrician so soldering will not be an issue. Can you post a picture of the glasses assembled with the new battery? I'm curious to see the split in the casing. Thanks! I ordered four batteries so I can replace the batteries in my current pairs if the batteries give out in those eventually.



You're welcome! Here are the pics, from the bottom you can see there's just very subtle separation in the upper inner casing right by the glass. From the top, the case doesn't fully close as it's being help by plastic clips. It's really minor and most folks probably will not notice. I just feel it would be better off with a thinner battery if you're doing it professionally for someone. For personal use I don't feel it is of much concern. If you manage to fit a small inline coupling connector it will likely make any future battery service much simpler. However like you can see, the space inside is very minimal but with a smaller battery it can be done (if you feel it's worth the time and extra effort).


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## therealdjnugz

@expired56k They look great! Barely noticeable. Batteries should be in tomorrow so hoping to get them in Wednesday after work. Unfortunately I couldn't find other batteries with dimensions listed. I'm just going to splice the wires and solder them and heat shrink over the splice. Not enough room in there to crimp. The plastic clips you speak of are just the ones from the casing correct? I just put a new lamp in the projector as well so looking forward to a 3d film with the kids. They're finally old enough to use 3d glasses which is why I got the new pairs. Appreciate the photos!


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## therealdjnugz

I'm going to test the voltage before the repair just to make sure it's the battery and not a funny issue with pairing. When I try charging them the glasses LED is solid green as if it's charged and will pair while connected to the charger so I'm 99% it's the batteries. Luckily the seller on ebay was understanding and gave me a partial refund.


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## expired56k

therealdjnugz said:


> @*expired56k* They look great! Barely noticeable. Batteries should be in tomorrow so hoping to get them in Wednesday after work. Unfortunately I couldn't find other batteries with dimensions listed. I'm just going to splice the wires and solder them and heat shrink over the splice. Not enough room in there to crimp. The plastic clips you speak of are just the ones from the casing correct? I just put a new lamp in the projector as well so looking forward to a 3d film with the kids. They're finally old enough to use 3d glasses which is why I got the new pairs. Appreciate the photos!



Yeah, the clips are all around the edge of the case but it seems in top, there's one to right and above the nose piece but not on the left hence there's more separation there. Screws are only in the corners and inside nose pierce area, the rest just relies on plastic clips. I'd rather have that and battery from a known source than something off eBay. You can probably crimp if you have really tiny crimping terminals. As long as you don't have to solder to the PCB it should be relatively simple and safe to do. I've kind of wanted to have 3D for a while on a giant screen but only got to it recently. It does look awesome (I have a 100" tab tensioned screen with Epson 5040ub projector and Denon AVR-X4400H and 7.1 surround but not height speakers for now; playing 3D BD from Sony UBP-X800; couldn't get 3D from computer but I haven't tried hard enough). Not sure if I'll let kids watch 3D, have to think about that. I suppose if it is a few hours here and there it should be okay.




therealdjnugz said:


> I'm going to test the voltage before the repair just to make sure it's the battery and not a funny issue with pairing. When I try charging them the glasses LED is solid green as if it's charged and will pair while connected to the charger so I'm 99% it's the batteries. Luckily the seller on ebay was understanding and gave me a partial refund.



I had same thing when I charge it would pair and show 100% battery, charging light would always go green and not error but as soon as unplugged glasses would shut off. I didn't even bother testing my batteries as given the time they sat in their box, it is almost guaranteed Li-Ion battery would be dead. Please kindly post your pics with heat shrink and spliced wires, I think that's the way to go!


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## therealdjnugz

@expired56k So I DID find 40mAh batteries on Digikey as well. So I ordered those last night hoping they'll be smaller and fit in the casing without issue. Ordered a small electronics pry tool kit as well. I'm hoping they'll both arrive Thursday so I can get it done before the weekend. I'll definitely share pictures when the time comes. 

I have an Epson 5025UB with a 100" screen as well, and a 7.1 system with SVS speakers. The projector is 5 years old now but still looks real good. Whenever it finally dies I'm going to finally upgrade to 4k, most likely the Epson 5050. Always been an Epson fan.


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## expired56k

therealdjnugz said:


> @*expired56k* So I DID find 40mAh batteries on Digikey as well. So I ordered those last night hoping they'll be smaller and fit in the casing without issue. Ordered a small electronics pry tool kit as well. I'm hoping they'll both arrive Thursday so I can get it done before the weekend. I'll definitely share pictures when the time comes.
> 
> I have an Epson 5025UB with a 100" screen as well, and a 7.1 system with SVS speakers. The projector is 5 years old now but still looks real good. Whenever it finally dies I'm going to finally upgrade to 4k, most likely the Epson 5050. Always been an Epson fan.



Very cool, please share your experience with these batteries and how you install them. I've had Epson's at work but couldn't afford one for home use and I ended up getting a refurb unit which is terrific deal in terms of cost, you get same warranty as new projector AND new lamp. Just can't really beat that. As far as 4K, it looks great for documentaries, kids cartoons which are CGI and gaming. For movies that difference isn't as apparent in my opinion. Interestingly 3D looks almost sharper than normal BD or UHD BD in a few titles I've tried (Avatar, Titanic, Star Wars The Force Awakens, Alita Battle Angel, Edge of Tomorrow). Definitely a worthwhile experience and made movies looks fresh (despite this being old tech and getting abandoned), wasn't so much the case with 4K.


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## therealdjnugz

@expired56k I got the other set of 40Mah batteries in and of course the length of them is not ideal lol. I think I may be able to get in there if I sit it in the casing at an angle.... I'm going to try those first, and if it doesn't work Im going to use the thicker 70Mah batteries with the casing slightly opened. Don't have the soldering iron at home so will take care of that at work tomorrow. I noticed the original battery had some kind of adhesive on it to stick to the board so I plan on using some not so heavy duty double sided tape on them. I don't think I'm going to splice the wires, but solder the new wires to the pads. I'll share more pics when I actually solder it. Wanted to get the glasses open to see which battery would fit better and of course neither are ideal. 

I agree, many times 3d films look sharper than their 2d versions. It's a big reason I'm still a fan of the format. Even without much depth to the 3d effect, I still prefer the 3d on some films.


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## therealdjnugz

@expired56k Got the repairs done today at work. Wasn't too bad. I tried the 40Mah battery first, soldered it on at it wouldn't turn on. So I took a meter to it to test continuity and voltage. I had continuity but no voltage. Was stunned and then realized when I cut the connector off the new battery I cut both wires at the same time.... I then realized I shorted out the battery because of this lol. So I had to take the battery off again and try another. I ended up using the 70Mah batteries and no issue. They turned on right away. Was a little difficult to solder even with the solder vice. I had to find a finer tip to put on the iron. All in all fairly easy. The casing looks just like yours since the battery is a little thicker than the original. Just glad I didn't get hurt when I cut the leads off the lithium battery at the same time. Could have been bad.


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## Joe CG

Hello, thanks all for posting this. Would either of you @therealdjnugz or @expired56k be able to do this for me. I would be happy to pay you for your time, batteries, and shipping. I have 3 glasses that would need this repair. Thank you


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## therealdjnugz

Joe CG said:


> Hello, thanks all for posting this. Would either of you @therealdjnugz or @expired56k be able to do this for me. I would be happy to pay you for your time, batteries, and shipping. I have 3 glasses that would need this repair. Thank you


I honestly don't know how I'd feel working on someone else's glasses. I'd hate to be responsible for damaging them even worse damaging them beyond repair. I just noticed today the red on the LED on one pair of mine no longer works. Maybe expired56k might be up to it. Do you have any experience with soldering?


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## Joe CG

therealdjnugz said:


> I honestly don't know how I'd feel working on someone else's glasses. I'd hate to be responsible for damaging them even worse damaging them beyond repair. I just noticed today the red on the LED on one pair of mine no longer works. Maybe expired56k might be up to it. Do you have any experience with soldering?


Thanks for being honest. I have soldered items in the past but my technique is horrible and I dont have a micro soldering set. I don't want to ruin the pcb by overheating the solder points so I was looking for someone with the tools and technique that could do this. Am I better off soldering the wires to the new battery instead of directly to the pcb, would that be easier? What size of shrink tubing would I need to insulate the connection?


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## expired56k

Joe CG said:


> Thanks for being honest. I have soldered items in the past but my technique is horrible and I dont have a micro soldering set. I don't want to ruin the pcb by overheating the solder points so I was looking for someone with the tools and technique that could do this. Am I better off soldering the wires to the new battery instead of directly to the pcb, would that be easier? What size of shrink tubing would I need to insulate the connection?



Hi Joe CG,
You don't really have to solder to the PCB pads, there's adequate room to splice the wires and heat shrink and I think that's easiest and safest way to do it. If you have the batteries, not in a huge hurry and pay for shipping I can probably do this for you. With work and kids I don't really have a lot of time for projects but I can do it over a few evenings if I'm not too burned out. The batteries we had used so far aren't entirely the size of OEM and are a bit thicker so there would be a small bulge in upper casing as evidenced in our pictures (our battery is ever so slightly too thick for the glasses casing, it works but casing does not close perfectly; so personally I don't see it as a professional job that I normally do when it comes to repairs but it does work fine). As therealdjnugz noted OEM battery is sticky on one side but that isn't necessary, probably helped them in production. I'm adding a few pics with OEM battery dimensions, it is in inches, so you probably need to convert to millimeters. The casing is pretty stiff despite capton tape (it's that yellowish polyamide heat resistant tape all around the battery bag) so just take reading at the markers. I couldn't find a proper ruler and I don't own a micrometer so you'll have to do the math, sorry about that. If you have everything, you're welcome to PM me to discuss this further.
Thanks!


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## Joe CG

Hello @expired56k, thank you for the offer. I really appreciate it. Fortunately, I found a local phone repair place that was willing to do some microsoldering for me at a fairly reasonable price 15.00/glasses. The results were pretty good. I did find batteries that had the same specs 3.7V 40mah on amazon and they fit perfectly. I have tried them and we watched an entire movie with no issues with battery life so far. here are the pics


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## expired56k

Joe CG said:


> Hello @*expired56k* , thank you for the offer. I really appreciate it. Fortunately, I found a local phone repair place that actually was willing to do some microsoldering for me at a fairly reasonable price 15.00/glasses. The results were pretty good. I did find batteries that had the same specs 3.7V 40mah on amazon and they fit perfectly. I have tried them and we watched an entire movie with no issues with battery life so far. here are the pics



Hi Joe CG,


I'm glad you got someone local and price is definitely fair. I haven't thought of a cell phone repair shop as I don't think I've seen them do any soldering so it's really cool that your local shop does it and that you supported them with work. Your battery does seem like it has a good fit and casing closes perfectly. Thanks for sharing your info, pics and experience and glad you can watch your 3D movies again! 



It seems this is the battery you speak of on Amazon (surprisingly it costs more than DigiKey but it does have a protection circuitry and looks good, not as shady as eBay batteries): https://www.amazon.com/battery-Rechargeable-Lithium-Polymer-Connector/dp/B07BTRQ7Q9/

 

Thanks!


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## Joe CG

yes that's the battery that I purchased. Not as shady as ebay, and it does have a date printed and visible protection circuitry or I'm assuming thats what it is. Can't guarantee the performance but they seem pretty good so far. We watched Frozen II 3D with no issues. I also tried the battery in different orientations to keep the wires straight as opposed to folded. Both ways fit nicely, just make sure the wires have enough slack if you want to orient the battery in different ways. I found the local shop by googling microsoldering services near me, apparently alot of phone and pc repair places can do this type of soldering. For anyone interested, I would check places like ubreakifix to see if they can do it chances are they do. Thanks again @expired56k for offering your help to do this for me.


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## anaveh

expired56k said:


> Hi Joe CG,
> You don't really have to solder to the PCB pads, there's adequate room to splice the wires and heat shrink and I think that's easiest and safest way to do it. If you have the batteries, not in a huge hurry and pay for shipping I can probably do this for you. With work and kids I don't really have a lot of time for projects but I can do it over a few evenings if I'm not too burned out. The batteries we had used so far aren't entirely the size of OEM and are a bit thicker so there would be a small bulge in upper casing as evidenced in our pictures (our battery is ever so slightly too thick for the glasses casing, it works but casing does not close perfectly; so personally I don't see it as a professional job that I normally do when it comes to repairs but it does work fine). As therealdjnugz noted OEM battery is sticky on one side but that isn't necessary, probably helped them in production. I'm adding a few pics with OEM battery dimensions, it is in inches, so you probably need to convert to millimeters. The casing is pretty stiff despite capton tape (it's that yellowish polyamide heat resistant tape all around the battery bag) so just take reading at the markers. I couldn't find a proper ruler and I don't own a micrometer so you'll have to do the math, sorry about that. If you have everything, you're welcome to PM me to discuss this further.
> Thanks!


The best guesstimate I can figure from those measurements is 0.125" H X 0.563" W X 0.688” L which would be approximately 3.175mm X 14.29mm X 17.48 mm. These batteries are labeled in millimeters as Height x Width x Length. So the 301120 is the same as 3.0mm X 11mm X 20mm. Since they fit even though the length is about 3mm longer than the original battery, I went ahead and grabbed a few from here: PRT-13852 SparkFun Electronics | Battery Products | DigiKey (amazon is out of stock right now). If I had the time and patience, I would have tried ordering these 3.7V 40mAh 301012: US $1.87 40% OFF|1/2/4PCS 3.7V 40mAh 301012 Li ion Battery 301012 Lithium Polymer Lipolymer Battery For Mp3 Bt Headset Toy Speaker Selfie Stick|Replacement Batteries| - AliExpress They seem like the closer to the original size (though I don't understand why they couldn't make this easier to figure out).

I just wanted to add those notes here in case someone else comes across and needed those details to help them fix their glasses. I'm hoping these will fit and get things working again, and I appreciate all the pictures and information other members left here for people like me.


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## mach250

Sorry to bump a 10 month old thread but I got 4 pairs off ebay and when I first got them the switch powered them on. Today I was trying to surprise my kids with them and they don’t do anything when powered on. Plugged in they’re green but nothing when unplugged. Is this what everyone was seeing they led to replacement batteries?


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## Worf

Yes, the batteries need to be replaced when they won't hold a charge.


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## mach250

are they worth it or should I try to return them and order some XPAND X105-RF-X1’s off Amazon?

Ordered 4 of these PRT-13852 SparkFun Electronics | Battery Products | DigiKey


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## texasninja956

I should’ve read til the end. I ordered the first ones mentioned…. Hopefully, they work fine like they did for others….

thanks for sharing all the details guys!!


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## Genix Aoras

Good day everyone. First of all, thank you so much all of you for the messages, sharing help & experience, it really helped me. My time to participate.

I bought 2 glasses from someone who never used it. They were charging, connecting to the 3D-projector, but once the cable removed none of the glasses was working. I checked all the links from this thread to buy a new battery, but only 301012 Li-Po Battery shared by @anaveh seemed to be available. I bought 4 (just needed 2, but ... who knows !). It took like 2-3 weeks to arrive (I'm living in Paris/France).
Note that the new one is smaller, at the end, I had no problem to close the glasses.









Full of goodwill, I started to open the glasses and do the welds myself. Make sure you find the 9 screws, see @expired56k post to get the proper tools :

















Then, as said on the previews comments, the tricky part is to remove the plastic part without damaging the glasses. I managed it doing so :

























Then the next issue is how to set the new Battery and remove the old one. Some here are advising to solder the wires of the new battery directly to the printed circuit board, while others advice to simply connect the cables together. I started the second option (to strip the fragile wires, use your nails)









But at the end, The cables are sooo fragile that I was breaking them :-( ...I decided to directly solder the new battery on the board.
After all theses efforts, the harder part is still ahead : the welding. Everybody says it's complicated, and I agree. Without proper tools, it's almost impossible. I bought a small soldering iron, and this is the best shot I managed to do so far (after all afternoon on it).








But it eventually broke one one glasses and I soldered the two connectors together. Luckily, the wire was not connected to the battery so i did not have a short-circuit, killing the battery. Be very focus on this : if the red&black wire touch themselves, your new battery is dead. I stopped everything and rushed into a computer and telephone repair shop, with a microsoldering workshop. For 30€, they did my 2 glasses perfectly









I don't have much perspective on battery usage, but it charges well, and I was able to watch movies (I only used them 2 times for now). I will update if in the future something is going wrong. Hope it helped.


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## b_scott

expired56k said:


> Anyway, hope it helps guys! Good luck! I'm happy to answer any questions since I just repaired mine.


thanks for all the help and suggestions. I just bought a brand new pair off ebay battery DOA. I will definitely just heat shrink wires together. I bought a pack of 10 of those batteries for $22 off ebay, coming next week. But I also bought a pack of 4 new glasses from Amazon that were recommended highly for Epson so I'll have those too.

oh, the Torx is a 3 not a 4.


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## b_scott

follow up - I tried to shrink the wires together with a heat gun and ended up melting the glasses. Oh well. I recommend the ElikLiv glasses on Amazon. They are very comfortable, work great, and have working batteries!


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## PCummins

b_scott said:


> follow up - I tried to shrink the wires together with a heat gun and ended up melting the glasses. Oh well. I recommend the ElikLiv glasses on Amazon. They are very comfortable, work great, and have working batteries!


As an alternative you could consider Wire Glue [Amazon] as it is heat free, so you would either desolder the old battery completely and then wire glue in 1 wire at a time (to avoid shorts), or cut & strip each wire at different lengths and then use some non-conductive electrical tape to wrap it (or gently use some heat shrink angled away from the glasses to tighten it up).


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## Prem K

Hey guys! A couple of youtube videos have demonstrated reviving the dead batteries by kickstarting them using a 9v external battery. Did anyone try that?


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## Worf

That only works for batteries that stopped working because the protection circuits cut in. For aged batteries it does nothing other than potentially give you a spicy pillow or worse.


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## Toddm017

titan ii said:


> Yes. "Slight" difference in physical dimensions, but it fits fine. Electrical specs are the same. New one is on bottom.


Hi, just saw this thread. I have the same problem. Purchased two of these glasses on eBay and the batteries are dead in both of them. Are yours still working?


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