# Bomaker Polaris 4K Ultra Short Throw Laser TV



## laserdiscguy

I stumbled on what appears to be an interesting new entrant joining the UST party:









Laser TV


Get 40% OFF on All Bomaker Projectors, Enter JULY50 at Checkout START SHOPPING Polaris 4K Ultra Short Throw Laser TVThe world's widest color gamut projector with RGB laser technologySign up to receive our 31%super early bird discount with$1999for the first 50 backers Bomaker Polaris 4K Laser TV...




www.bomaker.com





-native 4K
-RGB tri-color laser light source

I've never heard of this company before, but I'm curious to see if they'll be able to deliver something at the VAVA 4k price point that performs at or near the level of a Samsung LSP9T.


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## dbpaddler

Actually have their true wireless earbuds that were probably the best sub $50 pair I've owned. Their Facebook reused to bug me all the time to post Amazon deals of their products.

This one I'd be happy to help in on and rout if she gave me a cheap one to play with and it was any good. 

The "native 4k" is kind of funny. 

Sent from my Surface Duo using Tapatalk


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## klas

Needs a better price point then VAVA hopefully that entry price will stick


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## MOLTOV

Interesting. My wife also has the bomaker wireless earbuds. Interested in seeing this in action.


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## dbpaddler

Roderick Atkinson said:


> Interesting. My wife also has the bomaker wireless earbuds. Interested in seeing this in action.


They make a lot of cheap crap too, but those were little gems. 

Sent from my Surface Duo using Tapatalk


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## Casey_Bryson

RGB laser for under 2k? I'll believe it when I see it, but a sign of good things to come..


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## 3sprit

Low-quality writing and images on the site to advertise a product that aims for video quality?
Ok


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## dbpaddler

3sprit said:


> Low-quality writing and images on the site to advertise a product that aims for video quality?
> Ok


It's a chinese company. When have you ever known a tiny off brand China company (not your xiaomi level type) to have stellar English when everything they write is translated from Chinese? It's extremely common. 

Sent from my Surface Duo using Tapatalk


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## 3sprit

This...


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## MarkM78

I'm assuming it is DLP and they are claiming 2000:1 contrast. I wonder what input lag will be like on this.


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## Delanejenkins

I’m curious if it’s worth considering. I just picked up a vava during an Amazon lightning deal for $1950 but I’m wondering how the two would compare for only $50 more for the Polaris


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## Buzzdj

I am in the same boat. Purchased the Vava for $1949 but is this new one a worthy competitor? Vava or this?


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## Delanejenkins

Yeah that’s what I’d like to know. The vava has been around long enough now to establish itself as a pretty good ust projector, especially for the price point. The specs on the Polaris are tempting but I’m apprehensive not knowing how it will perform in actual testing


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## bix26

laserdiscguy said:


> I stumbled on what appears to be an interesting new entrant joining the UST party:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laser TV
> 
> 
> Get 40% OFF on All Bomaker Projectors, Enter JULY50 at Checkout START SHOPPING Polaris 4K Ultra Short Throw Laser TVThe world's widest color gamut projector with RGB laser technologySign up to receive our 31%super early bird discount with$1999for the first 50 backers Bomaker Polaris 4K Laser TV...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.bomaker.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -native 4K
> -RGB tri-color laser light source
> 
> I've never heard of this company before, but I'm curious to see if they'll be able to deliver something at the VAVA 4k price point that performs at or near the level of a Samsung LSP9T.


I have a feeling this would be a rebranded CHiQ C8UT. CHiQ is a pretty established brand in China. Apparently they’re licensing the tri-laser C8UT to SIM2 already. Considering that SIM2 is not nearly as popular in the US as they are in the EU It would make sense. Hopefully they get enough traction to put it into production. 



SIM2 DOMINO DTV : DLP laser RVB ultracourte focale – – Le Blog de PHC –


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## Meihk

This is extremely intriguing but it's in the concept phase and I have doubts that they will make the December expected date. Also, looking into the company, they tend to make very cheap projectors and buds which have variable reviews. Also, it is listed as "Flexible Goal" on indiegogo which I believe indicates that they won't necessarily refund the money if they don't distribute the product. I really want to support them and get one but I think I'm going to have to wait...


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## bix26

Meihk said:


> This is extremely intriguing but it's in the concept phase and I have doubts that they will make the December expected date. Also, looking into the company, they tend to make very cheap projectors and buds which have variable reviews. Also, it is listed as "Flexible Goal" on indiegogo which I believe indicates that they won't necessarily refund the money if they don't distribute the product. I really want to support them and get one but I think I'm going to have to wait...


Yeah, $2,000 is a big gamble. I’m surprised they haven’t at least made the prototype yet. They’ve reached 430% of their $10,000 goal. Yet, I can’t even find an update on their page. I was convinced VAVA was going to be vapor ware. Hopefully, it’s the same story here.


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## laserdiscguy

Delanejenkins said:


> I’m curious if it’s worth considering. I just picked up a vava during an Amazon lightning deal for $1950 but I’m wondering how the two would compare for only $50 more for the Polaris


On paper the Polaris beats the Vava spec-wise, but at this point it's a gamble. While Bomaker at least has prior experience producing projectors, reading the comments on this similar project, the Ilumee, certainly gives me pause. $2k is a lot of money to throw at something considering you don't really know how the final product will perform. And as you mentioned, the Vava has the benefit of being well-established now with plenty of positive reviews to at least provide some peace of mind. I doubt you'll regret your Vava purchase, especially at that sale price.

Incidentally, I find it mildly amusing that the "Recently Featured In" section of the story for the Polaris includes AVSforum given that this is the only thread that discusses it.


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## laserdiscguy

bix26 said:


> I have a feeling this would be a rebranded CHiQ C8UT. CHiQ is a pretty established brand in China. Apparently they’re licensing the tri-laser C8UT to SIM2 already. Considering that SIM2 is not nearly as popular in the US as they are in the EU It would make sense. Hopefully they get enough traction to put it into production.
> 
> 
> 
> SIM2 DOMINO DTV : DLP laser RVB ultracourte focale – – Le Blog de PHC –


That's a pretty interesting theory. It would substantially reduce the engineering time I would think, making a December release more plausible.


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## Viper Daimao

bix26 said:


> I have a feeling this would be a rebranded CHiQ C8UT. CHiQ is a pretty established brand in China. Apparently they’re licensing the tri-laser C8UT to SIM2 already. Considering that SIM2 is not nearly as popular in the US as they are in the EU It would make sense. Hopefully they get enough traction to put it into production.
> 
> 
> 
> SIM2 DOMINO DTV : DLP laser RVB ultracourte focale – – Le Blog de PHC –


Would that be good though? That site, PassionHomeCinema, rated the C8UT last on the UST projector list behind Vava:


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## laserdiscguy

Viper Daimao said:


> Would that be good though? That site, PassionHomeCinema, rated the C8UT last on the UST projector list behind Vava:


It's quite possible the C8UT is last on that list because it resembles a Roomba vacuum.


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## Viper Daimao

laserdiscguy said:


> It's quite possible the C8UT is last on that list because it resembles a Roomba vacuum.


Pros: bright picture, good color range
Cons: doesn't clean the carpet very well


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## bix26

laserdiscguy said:


> It's quite possible the C8UT is last on that list because it resembles a Roomba vacuum.


 all jokes aside. It was also priced at 3-4x the price of all the projectors on that list. Also, there was some focus issues on his review sample.


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## laserdiscguy

bix26 said:


> Yeah, $2,000 is a big gamble. I’m surprised they haven’t at least made the prototype yet. They’ve reached 430% of their $10,000 goal. Yet, I can’t even find an update on their page. I was convinced VAVA was going to be vapor ware. Hopefully, it’s the same story here.


According to one of their responses on the Ingiegogo page, they're well beyond the prototype phase and are actively running production trials, which is a positive sign if that's accurate.


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## laserdiscguy

While this certainly isn't a thorough technical review (characteristics like colour accuracy, contrast levels, input lag, etc. weren't measured, nor was it tested on an ALR screen) it at least offers a glimpse of what the projector looks like and shows some screenshots of the UI:









Can the Bomaker Polaris 4K Laser TV Projector Deliver the Best Home Theater Experience?


The Bomaker Polaris 4K Laser projector lets you ditch that typical TV while providing an immersive home theater experience for all your needs.




www.makeuseof.com


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## MarkM78

laserdiscguy said:


> While this certainly isn't a thorough technical review...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can the Bomaker Polaris 4K Laser TV Projector Deliver the Best Home Theater Experience?
> 
> 
> The Bomaker Polaris 4K Laser projector lets you ditch that typical TV while providing an immersive home theater experience for all your needs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.makeuseof.com


I thought is was interesting that "Overly sensitive eye care setting" was listed as a *Con* but many especially those with young kids would consider that a *Pro* given that it is a Class II and not Class I laser device.


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## Meihk

Also found this "review", also not technical:








Bomaker Polaris 4K ultra short throw laser projector review


A newcomer in the world of projectors wants to make a splash




www.techradar.com




I would like to see a more technical breakdown of the image quality for home theater use. 
I ended up breaking and pledged for one of the secret perk options at $1999. I'm excited about having a home theater and the UST's seem intriguing particularly the multiple laser projectors such as the Samsung Premiere and LG HU85LA. The Polaris also reportedly has a 60 msec input lag for gaming which is on par with the other USTs. We'll see how this goes...


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## jholzbauer

Dang that is awfully tempting at $2k. If it hits the specs it could be a gem.


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## shanec123

I pledged for it...going to take a chance. The specs and features of this put it well ahead of the VAVA and others in this price range. So we'll see!


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## laserdiscguy

Meihk said:


> Also found this "review", also not technical:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bomaker Polaris 4K ultra short throw laser projector review
> 
> 
> A newcomer in the world of projectors wants to make a splash
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.techradar.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would like to see a more technical breakdown of the image quality for home theater use.
> I ended up breaking and pledged for one of the secret perk options at $1999. I'm excited about having a home theater and the UST's seem intriguing particularly the multiple laser projectors such as the Samsung Premiere and LG HU85LA. The Polaris also reportedly has a 60 msec input lag for gaming which is on par with the other USTs. We'll see how this goes...


I've been eyeing a UST projector for months but, like any relatively new technology, I think they're overpriced IMHO so I was holding off. I was ready to pull the trigger on a Vava while it was on sale earlier in the month, but they didn't ship to Canada so that was off the table for me. And although the new Samsungs sounded intriguing, they're still not available in Canada and, regardless, are just too expensive. I decided to roll the dice on the Polaris because it's relatively affordable compared to the competition and appears to have superior specs to a lot of them.


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## shanec123

laserdiscguy said:


> I've been eyeing a UST projector for months but, like any relatively new technology, I think they're overpriced IMHO so I was holding off. I was ready to pull the trigger on a Vava while it was on sale earlier in the month, but they didn't ship to Canada so that was off the table for me. And although the new Samsungs sounded intriguing, they're still not available in Canada and, regardless, are just too expensive. I decided to roll the dice on the Polaris because it's relatively affordable compared to the competition and appears to have superior specs to a lot of them.


They need to get ahead of some of these off reviews. Guy wasn't using a screen. His wall could have been warped for the image or blur he was seeing. Surprised they are sending review units to people without a real setup or hell even a screen.


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## Meihk

shanec123 said:


> They need to get ahead of some of these off reviews. Guy wasn't using a screen. His wall could have been warped for the image or blur he was seeing. Surprised they are sending review units to people without a real setup or hell even a screen.


Do you or anyone else on this forum have a particular screen you would recommend? I'm thinking an ALR 120-135" screen, maybe Elite CLR screen but they all seem relatively pricey. I was hoping for something sub $1K.


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## Casey_Bryson

Meihk said:


> Do you or anyone else on this forum have a particular screen you would recommend? I'm thinking an ALR 120-135" screen, maybe Elite CLR screen but they all seem relatively pricey. I was hoping for something sub $1K.


A Telon 120" screen is the only thing under $1k at that size. They are about half the price of anything out there. Look on Alibaba to purchase and in the screen threads for reviews.


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## Casey_Bryson

"Speaking of the Roku stick, the latter identified the Bomaker Polaris 4K as a Hisense Laser TV and both shared a number of features. The company has confirmed that Hisense is their OEM, that is, it produces the projector for Bomaker and therefore very likely uses a lot of similar parts found in the former's more expensive Laser TV."

Wow so that speaks well of their manufacturing process and the parts used. It has a Richo lens as well. Add to that is ultra quiet at under 30...if they could get it to someone who could do some proper testing it could be the UST to get under $5000 let alone $2000. If they added 3D it would tick all the boxes. 

Bring on the technical tests!


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## MarkM78

Casey_Bryson said:


> Wow so that speaks well of their manufacturing process and the parts used. It has a Richo lens as well. Add to that is ultra quiet at under 30...if they could get it to someone who could do some proper testing it could be the UST to get under $5000 let alone $2000. If they added 3D it would tick all the boxes.
> 
> Bring on the technical tests!


I agree 100% and can't wait to see some input lag numbers as well. I have an Optoma GT5500+ in our kids playroom/media room. It is one of our favorite rooms, we play board games, watch football/movies on the couch, and my kids like to do some big screen gaming. I am itching to upgrade to 4k, our seating is such that 4k does not really matter but it would open up ATMOS content from folks like Amazon (my rant on the stupidity of coupling those two things together I will save for another time).

Like you said it appears to tick a lot of the boxes. I love that there is no color wheel and the stated contrast ratio looks good. As long as I can get to settings for adjustments I don't care if any apps come with it. Most people will hook something else up to it like the included Roku, a FireTV, AppleTV, or possibly even a cable box regardless of the what apps come with it. I definitely trust the content providers to do a better job of keeping those apps updated. I would rather the projector manufacturers spend their product, engineering, and QA resources working on improving the product and firmware over apps, but maybe that is just me.

The PJs that have me most interested right now are the Samsung LSP9, the ViewSonic X1000-4k, and the Polaris 4k. The Samsung is the only known quantity at this time but it is pricey and outside my budget. I may have set my hopes too high on the ViewSonic based on reviews of the X100-4k and then there is this one which has yet to have a real review either. I'm crossing my fingers on both of the unknowns because like I said I am itching to upgrade.


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## laserdiscguy

Casey_Bryson said:


> "Speaking of the Roku stick, the latter identified the Bomaker Polaris 4K as a Hisense Laser TV and both shared a number of features. The company has confirmed that Hisense is their OEM, that is, it produces the projector for Bomaker and therefore very likely uses a lot of similar parts found in the former's more expensive Laser TV."


Yeah, that's pretty interesting. Coincidentally, I very nearly bought the L5F as I saw a huge price drop on it on Amazon back in the early fall that I don't think even lasted a full day, but a lack of credible reviews dissuaded me.



MarkM78 said:


> I am itching to upgrade to 4k, our seating is such that 4k does not really matter but it would open up ATMOS content from folks like Amazon (my rant on the stupidity of coupling those two things together I will save for another time).
> 
> Like you said it appears to tick a lot of the boxes. I love that there is no color wheel and the stated contrast ratio looks good. As long as I can get to settings for adjustments I don't care if any apps come with it. Most people will hook something else up to it like the included Roku, a FireTV, AppleTV, or possibly even a cable box regardless of the what apps come with it. I definitely trust the content providers to do a better job of keeping those apps updated. I would rather the projector manufacturers spend their product, engineering, and QA resources working on improving the product and firmware over apps, but maybe that is just me.


I totally agree with everything you said. It's super annoying when Atmos content in streaming services is coupled to 4k capabilities when I can watch a 4k bluray on my 1080p TV but still get the Atmos track on my AVR. Streaming media devices are more widely used so they'll have much better support and updates so I could care less whether or not a given projector can stream Netflix. (Similarly, the few Bluray players I've used that had streaming capabilities sucked at it as well.)

Anyway, I'm looking forward to seeing how this thing performs in the important categories, like input lag, motion handling, contrast ratio, colour accuracy, brightness, etc.


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## shanec123

Well let's all remember that when it comes to a projector like this, picture, settings, configuration should matter most. Anyone dropping $$ on something like this will be using it along side some devices. Yes they threw in a 4k Roku with this because they knew they were making more of a 'dumb' type display and that's fine. I'm pretty sure my Nvidia Shield and Fire4k Cube will do more than any 'smart tv' software. The fact that everyone is talking about how 'customizable' the screen controls and settings are is more important. Everyone here will want to tweak it different than it's presets anyway and that's something to focus on. In some of the menu interfaces I've seen where you can do a lot of changes to the Image settings and that's going to play into this more than if it can stream netflix off it.


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## MarkM78

laserdiscguy said:


> Anyway, I'm looking forward to seeing how this thing performs in the important categories, like input lag, motion handling, contrast ratio, colour accuracy, brightness, etc.


Exactly, you mean the only things a projector manufacturer should care about!  I don't get why they are so keen on marketing and pushing things I have never heard anyone ask for or want. What will be the next useless differentiator? Maybe since the lamp based ones can get so hot they will advertise that you can fry eggs on them. Then those working on "cooler" solutions like laser or LED will have to start adding hotplates to theirs and some of the less technical reviewers will waste space on whether or not you can fry one egg or two while ignoring the things that really should matter.


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## geertm2

I have bought this projector. Can't wait for it to arrive here in the Netherlands.
Mass production has begun so hopefully it will arrive before Christmas!

Mass production has begun:








Polaris 4K UHD Ultra Short Throw Laser TV


Full Color Laser | 4KUHD | 2500 ANSI Lumens |Project up to 200" Screen | 30000h of Use | Low Noise | Check out 'Polaris 4K UHD Ultra Short Throw Laser TV' on Indiegogo.




www.indiegogo.com





Video version of the Makeusof review:


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## monakh

Casey_Bryson said:


> "If they added 3D it would tick all the boxes.
> 
> Bring on the technical tests!












According to a comment on the IG page by Bomaker (see screenshot), 3D should be added via an OTA update.


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## Casey_Bryson

monakh said:


> View attachment 3064432
> 
> 
> According to a comment on the IG page by Bomaker (see screenshot), 3D should be added via an OTA update.


Now all they need is laser dimming/dynamic black that doesn't pump like the Optomas and can be used with HDR unlike the Samsung and they'll own the market. Probably too much to ask but a boy can dream.


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## GregK

monakh said:


> According to a comment on the IG page by Bomaker (see screenshot), 3D should be added via an OTA update.


Wow.. Adding 3D suddenly puts the Polaris on my radar big time. Just started looking into this one. For 2-D content does the projector offer native 24p viewing (ala 48 or 72hz) or is it a fixed 60hz type?


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## monakh

I don't really care about 3D since I have zero 3D content but I do think this is probably a step up from my Xiaomi. I think I grabbed the last of the "Super Early Bird" specials. I had also done this with VAVA on IG but ended up getting a refund because they were delayed. 

VAVA is overpriced. Even now it remains overpriced because the components it is based on are used in a host of 2-year-old projectors and they can all be had for a much lower cost.


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## pqx12403

The Polaris 4k UST projector by Bomaker doesn't have Keystone correction. How much of a negative is that?

Is it still worth it at this price for this projector? Will there be a lot of issues trying to setup a projector that doesn't have Keystone?


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## Casey_Bryson

pqx12403 said:


> The Polaris 4k UST projector by Bomaker doesn't have Keystone correction. How much of a negative is that?
> 
> Is it still worth it at this price for this projector? Will there be a lot of issues trying to setup a projector that doesn't have Keystone?


They must have a lot of faith in their Richo lens is what it sounds like to me. I don't use mine on my Fengmi, but did have to use it on an Optoma P2 I returned due to a bad lens.

I see no need to use it for a UST unless there are lens imperfections or you have a non-flat surface like a wall that you're projecting on. With a good lens, as long as everything is flat and squared up you can use move the projector to get a perfect alignment.


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## GregK

Is there a good contact email for Bomaker where technical questions could be asked?


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## pqx12403

It kind of worries me that Bomaker isn't answering a lot of important questions their backers are asking on their Indiegogo page.

You would think they would be prompt to answer people backing them, especially during their last day of the campaign. But it's like they just come and go as they please.

And from the questions they have answered, it seems they just pick and choose which ones they want to answer and never get back to answering the others.


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## GregK

Good points. At a minimum, sounds like it may be best and wait for more comprehensive reviews.


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## monakh

Casey_Bryson said:


> They must have a lot of faith in their Richo lens is what it sounds like to me. I don't use mine on my Fengmi, but did have to use it on an Optoma P2 I returned due to a bad lens.
> 
> I see no need to use it for a UST unless there are lens imperfections or you have a non-flat surface like a wall that you're projecting on. With a good lens, as long as everything is flat and squared up you can use move the projector to get a perfect alignment.


I agree, I have never used it on my Xiaomi Mijia 4K unit.


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## Neo42

I’m a backer (since the day it was live) and definitely had some reservations that left me considering bailing out — but now that the initial campaign is over I don’t think I can cancel. Previously I heavily considered picking up the VAVA but ultimately sat on my hands. Then I get an email from bomaker advertising the IGG deal and had to jump. They impressed me with their first gen “SoFi” TWS ear buds. Apparently these are being built on same line as Hisense projectors (likely with similar guts) so that gives me a little hope. like others I am somewhat alarmed by who was picked to receive and review preproduction units


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## juic-E-juice

I’m terribly torn on this one simply because I’ve been chomping at the bit to get into UST. However, being an avid gamer has put the brakes on ANY projector released in 2020. The Bomaker doesn’t use the new TI DLP471TE DMD and doesn’t have HDMI 2.1. How long before we see a triple laser incorporating these two must have’s for gamers? I wish I knew. 

This projector checks so many boxes and is priced too low to ignore - as long as you’re not buying a next gen console.


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## shanec123

I can't say I'm torn or worried or anything. This is a 2k ust projector with 3 lasers. Go look up anyone doing 3 lasers and see the difference in price and who's making them. You can tell they decided to focus on picture above any of the other things such as OS and multiple feature sets or inputs. Sure they are not trying to be next gen with HDMI 2.1 that requires a different design. A LOT of TV manufactures are not even doing that. And any that are make sure the higher price point for it is there. This is one of those roll the dice things for sure but at least you've got better odds of having something with great picture and that should be the primary item for a UST. The good thing is, these will be in people's hands soon and a few of us can really test and review it and give some feedback. You just may end up paying a bit more if you wait is all and that's part of the risk/reward when it comes to funding campaigns like this. 

I'm excited...those who've invested should be too. This is something that can be used for years to come even if you turn around in another couple of years and buy the newest one with the 8k or HDMI 2.1 you want and know you can still use this in your bedroom or other rooms. Especially if you invest in the right screen for it and not just a white wall.


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## aerodynamics

juic-E-juice said:


> I’m terribly torn on this one simply because I’ve been chomping at the bit to get into UST. However, being an avid gamer has put the brakes on ANY projector released in 2020. The Bomaker doesn’t use the new TI DLP471TE DMD and doesn’t have HDMI 2.1. How long before we see a triple laser incorporating these two must have’s for gamers? I wish I knew.
> 
> This projector checks so many boxes and is priced too low to ignore - as long as you’re not buying a next gen console.


If there's any glimmer of hope, Hisense is the OEM. The L8D was measured at 16.5ms by Projector Reviews. They also recently measured the L5F at 33.3ms in 1080p mode. On the flipside, they never measured lag on the L10E which is the dual laser model. It really irks me how inconsistent they are with their review metrics but that's another discussion.


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## Meihk

aerodynamics said:


> If there's any glimmer of hope, Hisense is the OEM. The L8D was measured at 16.5ms by Projector Reviews. They also recently measured the L5F at 33.3ms in 1080p mode. On the flipside, they never measured lag on the L10E which is the dual laser model. It really irks me how inconsistent they are with their review metrics but that's another discussion.


They quoted 60 ms as the input lag under the comment section of the indiegogo page. I'm not a competitive gamer so I think I would be fine with that. Many of the other UST Projectors have 50-70 ms input lag like LG HU85LA and Optoma P2 so it's probably cool. It would be cool if it was as good as the Hisense UST's but I won't hold my breath. I like the enthusiasm shanec123, I'm really excited too!! I understand why people are hesitant but I'm hopeful it will be a great product; who needs an OS if we're just using HTPC's or Chromecasts/Nvidia Shields anyway? I definitely need to get an UST ceiling light rejection screen next.


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## monakh

Shockingly, Bomaker just confirmed DV via an OTA update. I did NOT see that coming. DV licensing is expensive, to say the least.


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## PolishPauL

monakh said:


> View attachment 3066932
> 
> 
> Shockingly, Bomaker just confirmed DV via an OTA update. I did NOT see that coming. DV licensing is expensive, to say the least.


I think that's a mistake. Projectors generally don't meet the contrast requirement for the Dolby Vision certification.


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## godfishes

They seem to be promising almost everything people are asking for... I also ordered one, but a few things are a little fishy to me. The ilumee indigogo failure has me on alert as well. The alhambra "hq" address from their site is a strip mall of mostly restaurants, tattoo parlor etc with some sort of associate office in the second floor?

Their [email protected] mail on the Indigogo site actually goes to [email protected], and the Admin for the Bomaker Facebook page has a selpic marketing employee as an admin. I assume selpic is just another branding arm for Sustanbo/Shenzhen HongBoWeiZhi Technology Co., Ltd, but it's just strange that they mention being headquartered there in the Indiegogo. If they have an office there, it can't be more than a PO Box, or maybe that is where their lawyer located..

I can't find any mention/relation to the three "employees" they list on the page at all on the Internet.

The list of marquees I think is just all the sites that picked up their "press release", which is why AVSForum is there. I mean it looks like the company is selling products for years, but having an R&D team promising all the stuff that they are doing seems a stretch.

The Selpic Indigogo/Kickstarter did deliver, but reviews and logistics are very mixed.


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## monakh

PolishPauL said:


> I think that's a mistake. Projectors generally don't meet the contrast requirement for the Dolby Vision certification.


I think you are right. Gonna have to question that.


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## shanec123

Shipping has started from the update posted this morning!


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## ACE844

I hope someone will post their color gamut measurement results when they calibrate and measure the projector's performance. I get that the calibration settings aren't universal but the DC-P3, CIE, BT.2020 performance should be fairly ubiquitous. Before I got my LSP9T I could only find one review that mentioned the color gamut and shows the gamut (cinehome.de review 1) was sub what Samsung was advertising. I've not seen any other examples yet, and I am waiting for my calibration tools to be delivered.

I'm curious how this essentially modified private label Hisense triple laser will perform since it's highly unlikely that the 100L9 PRO triple laser (production run of only 1000 units for CN market only were made at $15k each) will be made available at all CONUS.


----------



## pastorteacher

I backed it, albeit a little late to the party. Hope to get mine before I go out of town for Christmas. I did just receive my Samsung Premiere LSP7T yesterday and have been running it through the paces. I'm not sensitive to rainbows via DLP and am enjoying it. Gotta say the Tizen smart app built-in is pretty great, I can even do ATT TV app. Game mode works well, able to play overwatch in 4k on XBOX one X and lag doesn't seem to be too bad either. I'm going to try out the Polaris when it arrives and decide which unit to keep. Samsung has a 100 day return (if you buy from them directly) no questions asked. The Polaris may end up on ebay if I decide to keep the Sammy. 

Really want to see if the triple laser/wider colors will make that big a difference to me. Also want to see if the contrast is better.


----------



## jholzbauer

pastorteacher said:


> I backed it, albeit a little late to the party. Hope to get mine before I go out of town for Christmas. I did just receive my Samsung Premiere LSP7T yesterday and have been running it through the paces. I'm not sensitive to rainbows via DLP and am enjoying it. Gotta say the Tizen smart app built-in is pretty great, I can even do ATT TV app. Game mode works well, able to play overwatch in 4k on XBOX one X and lag doesn't seem to be too bad either. I'm going to try out the Polaris when it arrives and decide which unit to keep. Samsung has a 100 day return (if you buy from them directly) no questions asked. The Polaris may end up on ebay if I decide to keep the Sammy.
> 
> Really want to see if the triple laser/wider colors will make that big a difference to me. Also want to see if the contrast is better.


Appreciate you doing the comparison and providing your thoughts! Excited to see how the two stack up since they’re in my price range.


----------



## pastorteacher

jholzbauer said:


> Appreciate you doing the comparison and providing your thoughts! Excited to see how the two stack up since they’re in my price range.


yeah, Samsung offer with 48 months interest free financing, 100 day return, and 2 year warranty is hard to pass up. if money weren't an object, i'd have gotten the lsp9t instead, since its triple laser. But if the Bomaker can give a noticeably better color and contrast picture, i'll keep it. I'm also wanting to compare input lag b/w the two. I have an Epson 5030UB and can say it has better contrast, but not nearly as sharp as this and the colors are about the same.


----------



## pastorteacher

should also say I only have an elite screen (floor rising manual 92") white screen, but have a vivistorm 110" ALR coming next month.


----------



## FlyOnTheWall

cant wait for some member reviews...


----------



## laserdiscguy

pastorteacher said:


> yeah, Samsung offer with 48 months interest free financing, 100 day return, and 2 year warranty is hard to pass up. if money weren't an object, i'd have gotten the lsp9t instead, since its triple laser. But if the Bomaker can give a noticeably better color and contrast picture, i'll keep it. I'm also wanting to compare input lag b/w the two. I have an Epson 5030UB and can say it has better contrast, but not nearly as sharp as this and the colors are about the same.


Having both the Polaris and a LSP7T in your possession will be a good problem to have. The Samsung will certainly have a more polished UI, but I'm interested in seeing how much of a difference, if any, the quality optics and tri-laser light source of the Polaris make in image quality compared to the Samsung.


----------



## RedHotFuzz

pastorteacher said:


> yeah, Samsung offer with 48 months interest free financing, 100 day return, and 2 year warranty is hard to pass up. if money weren't an object, i'd have gotten the lsp9t instead, since its triple laser. But if the Bomaker can give a noticeably better color and contrast picture, i'll keep it. I'm also wanting to compare input lag b/w the two. I have an Epson 5030UB and can say it has better contrast, but not nearly as sharp as this and the colors are about the same.


Wish I could consider the Samsung but the 30” distance to screen at 120” is too much. Almost 5” more than the Vava. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## ACE844

RedHotFuzz said:


> Wish I could consider the Samsung but the 30” distance to screen at 120” is too much. Almost 5” more than the Vava.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Did you mean approx 8.5in off the wall and 16.3 in height?


----------



## shanec123

This being the first time i'm installing a UST...that chart above helps understand even though it's for a different projector. I'm all for people sharing ideas of what they used to put the projector on that they were able to adjust to an exact .x of an inch. I know this has some legs on it and can move up and down a little and that might help with the overall .x of an inch, but what have people with UST's found work great for putting them on that can be higher or lower based on screen size and placement?


----------



## 3sprit

Are you sure Polaris is trilaser? 🤨
They've already claimed it is native 4K, which isn't true.😶


----------



## juic-E-juice

3sprit said:


> Are you sure Polaris is trilaser?
> They've already claimed it is native 4K, which isn't true.


Oh God, not this again. Nobody here needs the BS speech on how DLP isn’t “native 4K”. If you’re buy a DLP projector, you know what you’re getting.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

juic-E-juice said:


> Oh God, not this again. Nobody here needs the BS speech on how DLP isn’t “native 4K”. If you’re buy a DLP projector, you know what you’re getting.


While I agree a manufacturer advertising and claiming "native" is inexcusable and gives us pause coming from a startup, it produces the same effect and is in some ways superior to three chip "natives" so let's at least acknowledge the hairs being split.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

shanec123 said:


> This being the first time i'm installing a UST...that chart above helps understand even though it's for a different projector. I'm all for people sharing ideas of what they used to put the projector on that they were able to adjust to an exact .x of an inch. I know this has some legs on it and can move up and down a little and that might help with the overall .x of an inch, but what have people with UST's found work great for putting them on that can be higher or lower based on screen size and placement?


Feng mi makes this table that's a lot like a traditional projector ceiling mount for your console/floor etc...









[US$484.99 17% OFF] Fengmi Laser TV Telescopic Pan-Tilt-Zoom Platform Mini Smart TV Cabinet Extension PTZ Ultra-short Focus Projector Stand Retractable Table Projectors & Accessories from Computers & Office on banggood.com


Fengmi Laser TV Telescopic Pan-Tilt-Zoom Platform Mini Smart TV Cabinet Extension PTZ Ultra-short Focus Projector Stand Retractable Table




m.banggood.com





It's expensive but priceless for some installations. I've seen a few others like it but not sure where.

Most installations that require variable image size differences or an option to hide the projector from poking out into the room incorporate a drawer to pull in and out, but those don't go up and down--though I suppose some clever engineering could provide that function.


----------



## RedHotFuzz

ACE844 said:


> Did you mean approx 8.5in off the wall and 16.3 in height?
> View attachment 3068250


I’m talking about the LSP7. The LSP9 is out of my price range. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## ACE844

RedHotFuzz said:


> I’m talking about the LSP7. The LSP9 is out of my price range.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Unless I'm missing something it's 16.3X17.3in not 30in?


----------



## 3sprit

juic-E-juice said:


> Oh God, not this again. Nobody here needs the BS speech on how DLP isn’t “native 4K”. If you’re buy a DLP projector, you know what you’re getting.


You think it's trilaser and "native 4K" is written by them. Other manufacturers write "4K". 
In Europe the manufacturer is responsible for what he has published. 👋


----------



## FlyOnTheWall

so when do these ship?


----------



## bradk14

FlyOnTheWall said:


> so when do these ship?


a couple of people in asia have reported receiving it and say good things via the project's comments page - one has posted video playing back a 4k video off youtube. us backers have received tracking numbers (i am one of them), but as of this moment, it's just a label being generated. I believe they are being shipped out of CA and I am in NV, UPS is 'speculating' that I should receive on 1/4, but of course that's meaningless if they don't have the package.


----------



## laserdiscguy

bradk14 said:


> a couple of people in asia have reported receiving it and say good things via the project's comments page - one has posted video playing back a 4k video off youtube. us backers have received tracking numbers (i am one of them), but as of this moment, it's just a label being generated. I believe they are being shipped out of CA and I am in NV, UPS is 'speculating' that I should receive on 1/4, but of course that's meaningless if they don't have the package.


I'd been hoping to receive mine over the holidays since they made it sound like they were going to start shipping them two weeks ago, but I'm not all that surprised that there have been delays given the historic levels of online shopping this season. Oh well, better late than never.


----------



## monakh

Yeah, I received my tracking number too. Let's see how it compares with my Xiaomi which has fared really well in the past 18 months. The WAF is not there because it's not ceiling-mounted but I'll live!


----------



## juic-E-juice

3sprit said:


> You think it's trilaser and "native 4K" is written by them. Other manufacturers write "4K".
> In Europe the manufacturer is responsible for what he has published.
> 
> View attachment 3069513


Fair point. I get what you’re saying and now agree with your assessment. 4K and Native 4K are indeed two different things. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## 3sprit

I really hope that whoever bought it gets a projector with those features at that price (including trilaser...).
I too would like a Ferrari for € 20,000 instead of € 200,000.
Happy New Year.


----------



## oni222

3sprit said:


> I really hope that whoever bought it gets a projector with those features at that price (including trilaser...).
> I too would like a Ferrari for € 20,000 instead of € 200,000.
> Happy New Year.


I also hope we get more tangible information soon. Except instead of a Ferrari I prefer a Tesla! Why aim low when you can dream bigger!


----------



## laserdiscguy

Given that Bomaker has updated their website to sell the Polaris directly, it would seem likely that all backers should be receiving their projectors soon: Pre-sale Polaris 4K Ultra Short Throw Laser TV


----------



## RedHotFuzz

laserdiscguy said:


> Given that Bomaker has updated their website to sell the Polaris directly, it would seem likely that all backers should be receiving their projectors soon: Pre-sale Polaris 4K Ultra Short Throw Laser TV


Can I trust a $2,500 device from a company that can’t toss a few dollars to someone to proof their website for them?


----------



## bradk14

UPS has claimed ownership of mine (and many others). They are reporting it should be delivered sometime tomorrow.

They also emailed out a survey, offering a chance to win their 100” screen. The survey assumed you already received the device so it was mostly how you feel about it but it also had a question on desired features (os update, App Store, 3D support, digital keystone, etc)


----------



## laserdiscguy

bradk14 said:


> UPS has claimed ownership of mine (and many others). They are reporting it should be delivered sometime tomorrow.
> 
> They also emailed out a survey, offering a chance to win their 100” screen. The survey assumed you already received the device so it was mostly how you feel about it but it also had a question on desired features (os update, App Store, 3D support, digital keystone, etc)


I'm glad that some people are finally getting theirs soon. Sending out a survey now was premature given their fulfillment process has been awful and most backers haven't received anything yet. I haven't heard anything about mine, not even a tracking number, and my contribution ID was in the mid-100's. That said, shipping from the US to Canada has been horrendous lately so I guess I shouldn't be surprised. Hopefully I'll at least get a tracking number or something soon.


----------



## bradk14

laserdiscguy said:


> I'm glad that some people are finally getting theirs soon. Sending out a survey now was premature given their fulfillment process has been awful and most backers haven't received anything yet. I haven't heard anything about mine, not even a tracking number, and my contribution ID was in the mid-100's. That said, shipping from the US to Canada has been horrendous lately so I guess I shouldn't be surprised. Hopefully I'll at least get a tracking number or something soon.


Premature isn't even the word for it. Anyway, good news is UPS has updated it and it's now out for delivery. I guess they aren't marking origin/destination scans anymore? 

Sorry you haven't gotten a tracking number, you may want to try to hit them up. I haven't seen updates about Canada specifically. I do know that they use an API provided by indiegogo for shipping/tracking and some countries aren't supported, but I can't imagine Canada is one of them.


----------



## laserdiscguy

bradk14 said:


> Premature isn't even the word for it. Anyway, good news is UPS has updated it and it's now out for delivery. I guess they aren't marking origin/destination scans anymore?
> 
> Sorry you haven't gotten a tracking number, you may want to try to hit them up. I haven't seen updates about Canada specifically. I do know that they use an API provided by indiegogo for shipping/tracking and some countries aren't supported, but I can't imagine Canada is one of them.


Thanks. I tried emailing them over a week ago and did not receive a response. Contacting them through Indiegogo directly the other day also did not result in any response from them. I'm sure it will get shipped eventually. Perhaps they're just sending out the domestic ones first since shipping to Canada requires more paperwork?


----------



## bradk14

laserdiscguy said:


> Thanks. I tried emailing them over a week ago and did not receive a response. Contacting them through Indiegogo directly the other day also did not result in any response from them. I'm sure it will get shipped eventually. Perhaps they're just sending out the domestic ones first since shipping to Canada requires more paperwork?


guess it depends on the route it takes. US was reportedly held up by customs for a couple of weeks, but then the label was printed and it just sat there for another week. Asia shipped weeks ago. I don't think Europe has? but at least I got the label print notification roughly shortly after they received it at their distribution.


----------



## shanec123

bradk14 said:


> Premature isn't even the word for it. Anyway, good news is UPS has updated it and it's now out for delivery. I guess they aren't marking origin/destination scans anymore?
> 
> Sorry you haven't gotten a tracking number, you may want to try to hit them up. I haven't seen updates about Canada specifically. I do know that they use an API provided by indiegogo for shipping/tracking and some countries aren't supported, but I can't imagine Canada is one of them.


So did yours go from label created to out for delivery? Cause that would be a good thing considering most of us still have it in that label created state.


----------



## bradk14

shanec123 said:


> So did yours go from label created to out for delivery? Cause that would be a good thing considering most of us still have it in that label created state.


yes. label created 12/29. shipped 1/6. out for delivery 1/7.


----------



## shanec123

bradk14 said:


> yes. label created 12/29. shipped 1/6. out for delivery 1/7.


Well then here's hoping the same happens. Though being out here on the East Coast i'm kind of doubting it.


----------



## bradk14

Delivered to my community's lockers. Unfortunately just got on a 4 hour call for work. So I get to wait.


----------



## bradk14

okay, just got off call and I did end up opening the box and plugging it in during breaks, so micro-blogging my impressions:

1) What you need to know is this is my first projector. I have a 75" and 65" tv and have always wanted something bigger, so I bit. I'm just pointing this out because I have zero frame of reference so my take will probably not be yours. and I do not yet have a screen. I ordered a quasi-cheap, non-ALR one off Amazon because the room is facing west and with the blinds down, there's only a slight leakage at the top during the day, and given that it's winter and most of my viewing time will be later in the evening, I'll worry about upgrading to something more appropriate later.

that said:

2) they shipped it just as it is (no other box), but it did have a plastic not-a-toy bag over it, tho it had a few holes in it, particularly in the corners, but the box itself was in solid shape. I guess at that size and 30-something lbs, a fragile sticker isn't necessary.

3) setup pretty simple. plug it in and power it on. unless you're me. I didn't know which way to face it and I temporarily blinded myself. the laser protection did seem to kick in, but not soon enough. lesson learned.

4) the laser protection, which is on by default but can be disabled, is pretty sensitive. I had read that in a review I found online, but they were not kidding. you can't approach this from behind without it triggering. the laser turns off and a woman (in pretty decent accent-free english) asks you to keep a safe distance. that said, my cats were able to sit next to the wall in the projection zone, but off to the side, without it triggering. so I hope it's okay for them.

5) image appears _bright_ enough during daylight, especially with no proper screen (textured, off-white wall), that leakage I had mentioned doesn't appear to show, but I have yet to actually watch anything.

6) I got two power cables for some reason, but no batteries for the remote (?!?).

7) remote's okay, the english is a little off (setting instead of settings for example). UI is basic for reasons, which is well advertised, and relatively easy to navigate. first thing I did was add it to wifi (for now, since I have no ethernet in that room) and it went smoothly. using a roughly 120" on screen keyboard is a bit awkward, especially this one when switching between letters and numbers, but easy enough. didn't bother to see if I could plug in a keyboard.

8) first thing I did was perform an OTA update, which I only knew about because I had read about it. There was no automatic checking or prompting. no issues downloading, had to respond to prompt to reboot and install OTA, which is what it was doing right before I came back downstairs to update.

9) in lieu of the OS, they did include a roku stick as promised. not sure if that's true with the retail model, but this appears to be retail ready. I don't really like the roku so not sure if I'm going to configure it even for testing. torn between buying another amazon fire stick or apple tv, which is primarily all I use on my living room tv. I'm inclined just to go with a new apple tv, so may try to pick one up tonight.


----------



## bradk14

okay, plugged in the roku for now. image appears to be slightly uneven but I think it's because I've got it sitting on the box right now. I need to find the right thing to put it on and apparently it has to be relatively close to the ground with a desired projection size of 120". screen has shipped and will arrive tomorrow, but I have no skills when it comes to hanging things, so it might be a day or three before I even attempt to get it hanging (someone in the amazon comments said they actually used velcro to hang it). fortunately what I did learn is cats and screens don't mix. i had one cat jump on the projector (which shut the screen off) and the other kept scratching at the wall whenever there was movement on screen. so I'm going to have to try to keep the screen high enough with no furniture around to discourage that. glad I didn't buy a $1200 screen to start with.

anyway seems pretty decent. it's watchable but I'm not sure I'd enjoy it too much during the daytime, at least with the off-white bumpy wall. hopefully with the screen and night time will be better. it is whisper quiet. blacks are only slightly off, again we'll see how the screen helps.


----------



## FlyOnTheWall

lets keep this up... more pictures and video reviews....


----------



## Deaf-Forever

Yeah, I was looking at the VAVA when I stumbled onto this thread. The no history thing coupled with a similar price to the VAVA makes it iffy until more are out in the wild with feedback. 30 days isn't much time to try it out but it beats a poke in the eye I guess.

@bradk14 Keep us in the loop please.


----------



## bradk14

so I think because the projector is so bright, the light bounces off the walls and although it isn't much of an issue when physically watching, it's pretty difficult to take a reasonable photo without the colors getting washed out. it honestly wouldn't be fair to the product. I did take some video (I turned down the brightness on the iphone) and it's decent, not exact but close, but it's about 90MB. I don't know if I can attach it here or if there's a decent copyright friendly place to post it, I'm more than happy to.

The Roku is absolute trash. Every time I tried to play HDCP material, the screen started flickering and the port would go dead and I'd have to reboot the device, but it wouldn't work anyway. Disney+ would recognize it as UHD capable and Netflix would say HDR, but nothing would play. Fortunately it's the Roku, so I swapped in my Apple TV 4K and it works flawlessly. Netflix is even showing items as Dolby Vision (which the device isn't even supposed to support?!). 

Anyway, sound is passable but obviously not very rich. it's not something you'd want, so I hooked up a Samsung Q70T 5.1 with Atmos via the HDMI ARC port. It's temporary until I can put in a proper receiver and speakers. I do have a Nakamichi Shockwafe 9.2 but it's buggy as hell so I left it with the tv it's already attached to. For the room size, the Samsung is making me very happy.

So with the 10 minutes I've spent with it so far, I'm pretty happy. As long as it doesn't fall apart in a week, I think it's a good buy (certainly at the $2K I paid). Screen arrives tomorrow so hopefully I can figure it all out by the weekend. It's watchable now but the wall is very textured and it's super obvious. 

@Deaf-Forever I definitely empathize. I had a coworker who tried to get me to buy into the ilumee but it just sounded way too good to be true for the price at the time (plus I had no idea USTs even existed at the time), so there's a bad history for sure. I was looking at the Vava 4K, the Anker Cosmos Max and the Optoma CinemaX P2. Ultimately I decided to give the Bomaker a shot because at the time I learned about it, they said it was already in production and provided some photos of production and videos and there were even a couple of live reviews from makeuseof and techradar and both were very positive, plus Bomaker had already produced other electronics that seemed to be reviewed decently.

It's not a $5K projector for sure. 2 HDMI ports, I think it's 2.1? so you aren't getting 4K @ 120hz and I'm sure the latency isn't that low so I'm not sure how it is for gaming (I suppose I could hook up my PS5 when I get some time just to try it out), but it's not low on features either. It seems to be a really good compromise so far, definitely probably on par with the Vava, if not a little more (I think there was a reason why I was leaning more towards the Optoma over the Vava but can't recall offhand).

Lack of 3D support is it's biggest weakness right now as far as I'm concerned and they said that'll come with an OTA update, but it's not make or break for me. I'll enjoy it a little if I can get it, but what it offers right now seems pretty decent.


----------



## bradk14

http://imgur.com/a/UWLWwc7

Small video of Apple TV playing 4k aquarium video off YouTube. Again not sure it does the device total justice

image is roughly 120”


----------



## klas

Is this worth it over VAVA which was selling for much less


----------



## bradk14

klas said:


> Is this worth it over VAVA which was selling for much less


? Vava 4K retails for $2800 US. I paid $2000 US for this. Not sure what the retail will actually be. 

And I think the reason why I dropped vava 4k over this was this promises up to 200” even tho that’s not practical for me at this time.


----------



## klas

bradk14 said:


> ? Vava 4K retails for $2800 US. I paid $2000 US for this. Not sure what the retail will actually be.
> 
> And I think the reason why I dropped vava 4k over this was this promises up to 200” even tho that’s not practical for me at this time.


VAVA was 1950, this one seems like 2500 now


----------



## 3sprit

oni222 said:


> Except instead of a Ferrari I prefer a Tesla! Why aim low when you can dream bigger!


Because I'm Italian... 🤣🤣🤣


----------



## bradk14

klas said:


> VAVA was 1950, this one seems like 2500 now


I apologize if I’m missing something. I googled it and it looks like at some point the vava may have been on sale for 1900, but with the exception of alibaba, I cannot find a single place online that has it listed for under 2799. 

If you can get a vava 4k for 1900, that’s likely a much more sound investment. I’ve only owned the Bomaker Polaris 4K when it comes to projectors and so I can only share my views on it specifically. And even from my research, 2300 would make this extremely competitive and viable. Again, missing 3D (for now), digital keystone (for now) and I’m confused about the DolbyVision, but other than that, so far, so good. 

Even the lack of HDMI isn’t bothering me. Turns out there was an issue where Atmos content on Disney+ and Netflix was playing without audio when the Apple TV was plugged directly into the Polaris. Not sure who’s at fault, but after some research, apparently Apple recommends feeding the device through the soundbar/receiver (which is plugged into the arc port) and not only did it fix the Atmos issue, sound quality is better overall.


----------



## geertm2

And remember that this is a 3 laser projector. The cheapest other 3 laser projector is the LG one at $5600.


----------



## ACE844

USER=9532700]@geertm2[/USER] this is an RGB laser projector. I'm not sure what the Cn only models are selling for like the Cinq8, the Cn only Hisense 100L9 PRO is $15,000 USD, and the Samsung LSP9T is $6,400 USD retail before tax, etc...

The LG is a RBB laser with phosphor.

It should be noted this Bomaker polaris is a private label version of a Hisense RGB triple laser. It would appear it's a "handicapped" version of the 100L9 PRO


----------



## bradk14

ACE844 said:


> It should be noted this Bomaker polaris is a private label version of a Hisense triple laser. It would appear it's a "handicapped" version of the 100L9 PRO


it's definitely a 'gee, if only it had this feature, it would be perfect' product. truth is, if they didn't include the non-ARC HDMI port, it probably wouldn't lose any points. it might even help because plugging another device into it when you have a soundbar/receiver is probably doing more harm than good.

my only gripe to date is the eye protection feature with it being too sensitive (no idea where the sensor for it is). it triggers too easily and you get exhaustion from the loud, lengthy voice prompt, but it can be turned off. I just fear for my cats.


----------



## ACE844

@bradk14 

Thank you for sharing your experiences with the machine. I'm hoping someone will also post objective measurements of the actual machine performance to help me make some decisions on my own current/future installations. 

I'm still in the return window for my LSP9T though I am considering adding a 2nd and or 3rd PJ ( considering this Bomaker, a Xiami 1S, an LG HU810P, or another Samsung 9T, to our home. I'm on the fence between a Samsung terrace for our outdoor setup or one of the aforementioned PJ, we'll be using inside).


----------



## oni222

Is this confirmed to be RGB three lasers and most importantly is this HDMI 2.1 with VRR (Variable Refresh Rate).
I have tried three UST laser projectors before and they where all mediocre at best. Two Xiaomi's and one rebrand, two died 6 months later and the third one is about to hit 1 year but is on it's last legs.
Here is proof of one of my projectors 



Also is this yet another rebrand?


----------



## aronsonstack

oni222 said:


> Is this confirmed to be RGB three lasers and most importantly is this HDMI 2.1 with VRR (Variable Refresh Rate).
> I have tried three UST laser projectors before and they where all mediocre at best. Two Xiaomi's and one rebrand, two died 6 months later and the third one is about to hit 1 year but is on it's last legs.
> Here is proof of one of my projectors
> 
> 
> 
> Also is this yet another rebrand?


Even though those Xiaomi's area cheaper, it is still a bad return on investment when they go haywire in 6 months. Yikes! Were you able to use your warranty or anything? I got the Vava, and I think my Amex will protect me 1 year beyond the warranty. After that, it's fingers crossed! We are sort of in the infant stages of these things, so you don't know if they have the longevity of regular tvs.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

All electronics have some failures. The Xiaomi Mijia oni owned had a few known issues. My Fengmi is a different design and is a year and a half strong. During that same time period I had two new Denon receivers fail; I'm on the third.

There's always a risk and I understand what it's like to be unlucky-- it's no fun to say the least so I share your pain Oni.


In my opinion when the cost is half or more and you get better tech the risk is well worth it. Here's wishing the best for the future Polaris owners! 🤞


----------



## 3sprit

geertm2 said:


> And remember that this is a 3 laser projector.


Can you prove it is trilaser? Has anyone opened it? Thanks


----------



## aronsonstack

Casey_Bryson said:


> All electronics have some failures. The Xiaomi Mijia oni owned had a few known issues. My Fengmi is a different design and is a year and a half strong. During that same time period I had two new Denon receivers fail; I'm on the third.
> 
> There's always a risk and I understand what it's like to be unlucky-- it's no fun to say the least so I share your pain Oni.
> 
> 
> In my opinion when the cost is half or more and you get better tech the risk is well worth it. Here's wishing the best for the future Polaris owners! 🤞


Have front end laser projectors been around for at least a decade? I know UST laser has not. I'm just wondering when they say 25,000 hours, if there is anybody who can say, "Yeah, mine is still going strong after 10 yrs!" LOL! For UST Lasers, we are the pioneers.


----------



## oni222

aronsonstack said:


> Even though those Xiaomi's area cheaper, it is still a bad return on investment when they go haywire in 6 months. Yikes! Were you able to use your warranty or anything? I got the Vava, and I think my Amex will protect me 1 year beyond the warranty. After that, it's fingers crossed! We are sort of in the infant stages of these things, so you don't know if they have the longevity of regular tvs.


So Banggood agreed for me to ship it to them for a refund, so I paid almost $200 in shipping and 6 months later the shipment came back to me because they refused to accept it from the shipping company. They refused it was the case and asked for me to ship it out again. At that point I let Amex hash it out with them and they refunded me.

The second projector I paid using paypal and needless to say I lost my money and I knew better not to ship out the box and lose more money.


----------



## oni222

3sprit said:


> Can you prove it is trilaser? Has anyone opened it? Thanks





Casey_Bryson said:


> All electronics have some failures. The Xiaomi Mijia oni owned had a few known issues. My Fengmi is a different design and is a year and a half strong. During that same time period I had two new Denon receivers fail; I'm on the third.
> 
> There's always a risk and I understand what it's like to be unlucky-- it's no fun to say the least so I share your pain Oni.
> 
> 
> In my opinion when the cost is half or more and you get better tech the risk is well worth it. Here's wishing the best for the future Polaris owners! 🤞


I owned the Xiaomi white, black (both failed within 6 months) and now the Fengmi that is about a year old but now takes 5-10 minutes to boot up, half the time the colors are wrong and needs to reboot. It also has a air wave in the lower left where it looks like the pixels shift as warm air passes through and last but certainly not least I got some dead pixels in the left and right of the projection.

I love having a UST projector on my 150" screen. I can never go back to anything smaller than 150". If an OLED TV existed at 150" I would dump this shoddy tech and buy that in a heartbeat (assuming it did not cost more than a car lol). 

That is why I hope this is fundamentally different from the xiaomi UST's because very shortly I will need to get yet another replacement.


----------



## aronsonstack

oni222 said:


> So Banggood agreed for me to ship it to them for a refund, so I paid almost $200 in shipping and 6 months later the shipment came back to me because they refused to accept it from the shipping company. They refused it was the case and asked for me to ship it out again. At that point I let Amex hash it out with them and they refunded me.
> 
> The second projector I paid using paypal and needless to say I lost my money and I knew better not to ship out the box and lose more money.


Man, that's just infuriating. This is exactly why I refrained from buying directly from China. But at least Amex took care of you for 1 of the units.


----------



## Jimmeh_msp

My projector showed up late last night. I have yet to put my screen together and mount it. My last projector was a 3 gun CRT electrohome 8000. Picture is projected on a very light grey wall. (yes I now see the imperfection in the wall lol). I will share more later today.


----------



## Jimmeh_msp

Still putting the screen together. This is from today's game. I have blinds in the closest window otherwise no light restriction in the room


----------



## pqx12403

Jimmeh_msp said:


> Still putting the screen together. This is from today's game. I have blinds in the closest window otherwise no light restriction in the room


Looks great! Please update us once you get that screen together. Which screen is it? And what are your thoughts about the quality of the projector?


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Jimmeh_msp said:


> Still putting the screen together. This is from today's game. I have blinds in the closest window otherwise no light restriction in the room


Iphone camera? Looks like it's heavy on the magenta like we saw with Samsung's RGB UST, but I'm guessing it's just your camera.


----------



## Jimmeh_msp

Pixel 3a. It's heavy on the red. I checked the settings at the color setting was set to red. I need to spend sometime experimenting.


----------



## bradk14

Casey_Bryson said:


> Iphone camera? Looks like it's heavy on the magenta like we saw with Samsung's RGB UST, but I'm guessing it's just your camera.


I'm sure @Jimmeh_msp will agree, the photos are tough to capture (I think it's mostly because the light bouncing off the walls). the color on this thing is gorgeous as far as I'm concerned. I still have to put my screen together (Amazon Basics 120" white) and right now I'm looking to move to a proper 5.1.2 despite just investing $650 or so in the soundbar 5.1 I have.


----------



## Jimmeh_msp

The colors are incredibly vibrant. These are from a far room tonight. Screen assembled. 130" cinagrey (Not alr) I do need to turn the red down.. tmobile colors popoff the wall


----------



## monakh

Mine should be in NY tomorrow or the day after and will be forwarded to me in the Middle East. I am currently on my black Xiaomi 4K which has done fairly well in over a year and a half of ownership (had a scare there for a couple of days with a warped image but other than that, no issues). 

Should be an interesting comparison. Hope the PJ makes it safely over to me. It went from CN to US and then across the US and then it will go back halfway across the world. That's a lot of bouncing around for the box but this isn't my first rodeo. Should be OK.


----------



## 3sprit

3sprit said:


> Can you prove it is trilaser? Has anyone opened it? Thanks


Nothing?


----------



## MarkM78

3sprit said:


> Can you prove it is trilaser? Has anyone opened it? Thanks


If you are curious, why don't you buy one and void your warranty by opening it?


----------



## shanec123

Finally got a date on the delivery and suppose to be here this Thursday. Once it's here, I'll set it up in the theater room and get some information back on here to others. Have the Panasonic UB820 UHD disc player to team up with it along with the Yamaha RX-V6A, Nvidia Shield Pro, and a Fire 4k cube to try out lots of formats. Should be fun!


----------



## 3sprit

👋


----------



## bradk14

Installed my Amazon basics 120” white screen. It becomes painfully obvious that not having keystone correction is a major pain in the ass. I’ll live it with it now. Meanwhile, enjoy some footage from the fast and the furious in 4k (note I took this while sitting so it’s not centered with the screen)



http://imgur.com/a/eR6nrL1


----------



## geertm2

From what I have read using digital keystone will decrease picture quality and should only be used as a last resort.


----------



## Distillz

How is the noise level or coil whine, and could someone with the projector provide some dimension measurements. Wondering how the rainbow affect on this is compared to ones like in LG HU85LA and the LSP9T. I haven't been able to find the user manual for some of the information. Thanks in advance!


----------



## bradk14

geertm2 said:


> From what I have read using digital keystone will decrease picture quality and should only be used as a last resort.


Are there tips for manual adjustment then? It’s difficult doing it myself because my view while moving the projector is different than the actual viewing angle.


----------



## geertm2

bradk14 said:


> Are there tips for manual adjustment then? It’s difficult doing it myself because my view while moving the projector is different than the actual viewing angle.


This is my first UST projector and I have not received it yet. So I have no experience with manual adjustment.
The first thing to do is making sure your projector is level (using the adjustable feet and a level tool). After that only small adjustments should be needed.


----------



## bradk14

Distillz said:


> How is the noise level or coil whine, and could someone with the projector provide some dimension measurements. Wondering how the rainbow affect on this is compared to ones like in LG HU85LA and the LSP9T. I haven't been able to find the user manual for some of the information. Thanks in advance!


I'm unable to detect any noise, even with nothing playing. it's almost worrying to be honest.

the unit itself is about 21"w x 13"l x 5.5"h. shipping weight is 28". back of the unit is 29" from the wall for a ~120" image

ETA: also no rainbow effect noticed by me. i only watch head on for the most part on the image is really just as good as I can imagine save for blacks not being black. (in comparison, I have a 65" LG OLED in my living area).


----------



## MarkM78

bradk14 said:


> Are there tips for manual adjustment then? It’s difficult doing it myself because my view while moving the projector is different than the actual viewing angle.


Let your screen be your guide, literally. You can use your screen to help you dial in the corners. If you imagine a picture frame it becomes easier. If you had a picture frame in front of you where it looks more like a trapezoid then you need to pull the top towards you which is accomplished on a projector by raising the back legs. If it is larger on the left than right then you need to twist to bring the left side closer to the screen and right side further from it. It can be frustrating but in the end it is worth it. Keystone affectively "stretches" or "compresses" your vertical and horizontal resolution to accomplish the same thing.


----------



## bradk14

MarkM78 said:


> Let your screen be your guide, literally. You can use your screen to help you dial in the corners. If you imagine a picture frame it becomes easier. If you had a picture frame in front of you where it looks more like a trapezoid then you need to pull the top towards you which is accomplished on a projector by raising the back legs. If it is larger on the left than right then you need to twist to bring the left side closer to the screen and right side further from it. It can be frustrating but in the end it is worth it. Keystone affectively "stretches" or "compresses" your vertical and horizontal resolution to accomplish the same thing.


yeah, i get that. the issue seems to be a never ending cycle of adjustments tho. fix the bottom part of the screen and the upper part is messed up, try to fix the upper part and now the projection isn't the right size for the screen. move the projector (fixed throw) and then the keystone is an issue. at least if there was a digital keystone correction, I can undistort it. even if it means there's some focus issues in the corners, I personally probably wouldn't even notice/care


----------



## geertm2

I just read that the Hisense 100L9 3-laser projector will cost Euro 7000 (including screen). Will be released Q2. 
This projector probably uses the same 3-laser engine as the Bomaker Polaris (OEM manufacturer is Hisense).


----------



## joy123

I got mine yesterday. Here is my configuration: Oppo UDP 203/AppleTV/Nvidia Shield -> Denon AVRX-H1600 Receiver->Polaris 4K Projector->Vividstorms 120" ALR floor raising UST screen. I first ventured into UST projector with a Vava 4k projector two months ago. I've less than ideal setup to place the projector. With Vava, it took about 5 mins to do keystone trapezoid image correction to fit the image into the screen. With Polaris took about an hour of fiddling with the four corners to adjust the picture size to fit into Vividstorm 120" screen - still slight disorientation I need to fix. I gave up and ended up watching a movie after noticing stunning picture quality compared Vava. The picture quality is pretty impressive. I'm not a videophile - do not understand the plethora of settings provided. But the default settings were pretty good. I collected few 3D movies in the last two months that I need to wait for 3D support via OTA update in the future. Also, I missed Vava's trapezoid image correction feature. Pros: very low noise level, amazing picture quality cons: trapezoid image correction, no 3D. Hopefully these will be added in the future via OTA update. I'm returning Vava projector and keeping this one.


----------



## bradk14

joy123 said:


> cons: trapezoid image correction, no 3D. Hopefully these will be added in the future via OTA update.


You're probably already aware but for the record, they've promised both of these in the future via OTA updates. Of course, no timeline. 3D I could take or leave, but the digital keystone is much needed.


----------



## monakh

bradk14 said:


> yeah, i get that. the issue seems to be a never ending cycle of adjustments tho. fix the bottom part of the screen and the upper part is messed up, try to fix the upper part and now the projection isn't the right size for the screen. move the projector (fixed throw) and then the keystone is an issue. at least if there was a digital keystone correction, I can undistort it. even if it means there's some focus issues in the corners, I personally probably wouldn't even notice/care


These reports of focus issues in the upper or lower parts of the image are of serious concern (to me). Last time I had this issue was with almost every single LG LED PJ I have owned. Focus on the center, and the corners become soft. Focus on the corners and the center becomes soft. It took me months to figure out that the issue was likely due to the plastic lenses on the LG units. It can never be fixed. It's a design flaw. Hope this isn't the case here. I should receive mine in about 10 days in the Middle East. I guess we'll find out.


----------



## bradk14

monakh said:


> These reports of focus issues in the upper or lower parts of the image are of serious concern (to me). Last time I had this issue was with almost every single LG LED PJ I have owned. Focus on the center, and the corners become soft. Focus on the corners and the center becomes soft. It took me months to figure out that the issue was likely due to the plastic lenses on the LG units. It can never be fixed. It's a design flaw. Hope this isn't the case here. I should receive mine in about 10 days in the Middle East. I guess we'll find out.


People are reporting random issues. I haven't experienced any of them, so not sure if I'm lucky or what. Not sure if it's enough, but I posted a sample of 4K video above (although it was from a bad angle) and I don't think it demonstrates any issue. you can even see things like hair whipping in the wind very cleanly.

The only complaint that I've seen get some validation is reports the corners get soft at 200", which Bokmaker seemed to acknowledge. They advise that 100" is the best size, but I have no complaints at 120, save for the keystone


----------



## uvaskeme

ABOX HOME US via Amazon currently has a $200 coupon and 20% off code (AK45GJZY) for this projector. Price is $1880 + tax with free Prime shipping.


----------



## MarkM78

Has anyone measured or found any reviews on input lag? That is really the only thing keeping me on the fence. My kids play XBox and I would like to eventually do some MS Flight Simulator with it (once I get a PC that can run it  ). Currently we have an Optoma GT5500+ so this would be an upgrade in almost every area over our current 1080p lamp based one.


----------



## USTMan

I found this on the official Bomaker Polaris facebook page.


----------



## MarkM78

USTMan said:


> I found this on the official Bomaker Polaris facebook page...


Thank you! the only thing I had found was some misleading info about MEMC (which would actually make lag worse). That is about double what I have now so I will hold out until something comes along that matches or beats it. I feel like we are on the verge of some big break throughs.


----------



## Low_Rez

uvaskeme said:


> ABOX HOME US via Amazon currently has a $200 coupon and 20% off code (AK45GJZY) for this projector. Price is $1880 + tax with free Prime shipping.


Damn it, you made me do it. I've been eyeing this and the VAVA. This was enough to make me pull the trigger. Amazon says I'll get it next Tuesday.


----------



## oni222

uvaskeme said:


> ABOX HOME US via Amazon currently has a $200 coupon and 20% off code (AK45GJZY) for this projector. Price is $1880 + tax with free Prime shipping.


Thanks this will be my 4th UST projector and I used the order link from above. Unfortunately it was $2,062.84 for me so I assumed your info did not include taxes.
It should arrive on Tuesday so I will be able to compare it to the three Xiaomi based laser UST projectors that I have owned.


----------



## dbpaddler

Low_Rez said:


> Damn it, you made me do it. I've been eyeing this and the VAVA. This was enough to make me pull the trigger. Amazon says I'll get it next Tuesday.


Ha.... Me too. Monday for me. I have an Epson g7500u temporarily in the living room I picked up for $650 during quarantine. And now I'm contemplating making it permanent when I finish renovating the living room. Want to do a hidden motorized alr screen in the ceiling and run power and hdmi to an outlet underneath. Then the screen can drop down, and I can just plug in the projector and go.

Didn't think I'd want a 2nd projector setup, but having a 100" screen in the living room, I actually watched less discerning content that would normally send me up to the theater room. 

And can't include taxes in the price since everyone has a different rate. People on igg paid tax too. Sadly tax is no longer a deal breaker on deals since 98% of the time, you're paying it for an online purchase outside of Delaware and wherever else has no sales tax. 

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk


----------



## oni222

MarkM78 said:


> Has anyone measured or found any reviews on input lag? That is really the only thing keeping me on the fence. My kids play XBox and I would like to eventually do some MS Flight Simulator with it (once I get a PC that can run it  ). Currently we have an Optoma GT5500+ so this would be an upgrade in almost every area over our current 1080p lamp based one.


I am a huge gamer and I use a combination of screens. (bare with me for a moment) I have a 1ms monitor for my pc, two OLED65 tv's from LG and currently where I game the most (by far) is my Xiaomi based projector.
I connect my ps5, Xbox one X (rarely since it has no exclusives) and my pc that has a 3990x threadripper with a 3090 FE gpu (yes I know it is overkill but I love it).
The Xiaomi on paper has a ton of input lag worse than my LG OLED's and definitely worse than my pc monitor BUT! I still end up using it the most for two reasons, number one gaming at 150" is AMAZING and number two I barely feel the lag myself. Between the OLED and Projector it feels the same, where I feel a difference is on my G-sync monitor because it has VRR (Variable Refresh Rate) and with HDMI 2.1 that advantage will be gone.

Sadly I don't think this projector has HDMI 2.1 but I hope somebody here chimes in and proves me wrong


----------



## MarkM78

Low_Rez said:


> Damn it, you made me do it. I've been eyeing this and the VAVA. This was enough to make me pull the trigger. Amazon says I'll get it next Tuesday.


Ditto, I decided to take a chance on the input lag since it out classes my current projector in every other meaningful category. I will finally get ATOMS content to my receiver for those streaming services that insist on coupling Atmos playback to whether or not you have a 4k display. This should serve me well for the conceivable future until HDMI 2.1, high performant LEDs, and who knows what other advances hit the market at a reasonable price.


----------



## aronsonstack

joy123 said:


> I got mine yesterday. Here is my configuration: Oppo UDP 203/AppleTV/Nvidia Shield -> Denon AVRX-H1600 Receiver->Polaris 4K Projector->Vividstorms 120" ALR floor raising UST screen. I first ventured into UST projector with a Vava 4k projector two months ago. I've less than ideal setup to place the projector. With Vava, it took about 5 mins to do keystone trapezoid image correction to fit the image into the screen. With Polaris took about an hour of fiddling with the four corners to adjust the picture size to fit into Vividstorm 120" screen - still slight disorientation I need to fix. I gave up and ended up watching a movie after noticing stunning picture quality compared Vava. The picture quality is pretty impressive. I'm not a videophile - do not understand the plethora of settings provided. But the default settings were pretty good. I collected few 3D movies in the last two months that I need to wait for 3D support via OTA update in the future. Also, I missed Vava's trapezoid image correction feature. Pros: very low noise level, amazing picture quality cons: trapezoid image correction, no 3D. Hopefully these will be added in the future via OTA update. I'm returning Vava projector and keeping this one.


Hmm, just pulled the trigger on the Bromaker. I still got till Jan 31 to ultimately decide on Vava. I love the 8 point keystone of the Vava. BroMaker doesn't have that? The fact that you're deciding to return the Vava got me curious.


----------



## oni222

aronsonstack said:


> Hmm, just pulled the trigger on the Bromaker. I still got till Jan 31 to ultimately decide on Vava. I love the 8 point keystone of the Vava. BroMaker doesn't have that? The fact that you're deciding to return the Vava got me curious.


It will get the keystone as a software update. Just keep in mind the VAVA is basically a Xiaomi UST projector and those lower the quality when you use the keystone. So in general it is best if you do not touch the keystone and instead manually move it around.


----------



## oni222

So I got an answer from the seller on Amazon (take it with a grain of salt).









Here is the page in case you want to throw in some follow-up questions: Amazon.com: Customer Questions & Answers
TL;DR: It looks like this projector has HDMI 2.0 Type A with the VRR function enabled. The VRR portion has me very curious but if true then this projector is miles ahead of the competition for gamers.


----------



## juic-E-juice

oni222 said:


> It will get the keystone as a software update. Just keep in mind the VAVA is basically a Xiaomi UST projector and those lower the quality when you use the keystone. So in general it is best if you do not touch the keystone and instead manually move it around.


Keystone correction should ALWAYS be avoided if possible. In the case of ceiling mounted projectors, it is almost impossible to avoid using this tool. But for floor resting projectors, time, patience and effort will usually allow you to forgo utilizing this tool that only imparts negative attributes to your image.


----------



## oni222

juic-E-juice said:


> Keystone correction should ALWAYS be avoided if possible. In the case of ceiling mounted projectors, it is almost impossible to avoid using this tool. But for floor resting projectors, time, patience and effort will usually allow you to forgo utilizing this tool that only imparts negative attributes to your image.


I could not agree with you more. This response should be stickied for all UST projector threads lol.


----------



## bix26

oni222 said:


> I could not agree with you more. This response should be stickied for all UST projector threads lol.


I have to disagree, I’ve had both ceiling and UST projectors. Squaring up a ceiling projector is a much simpler task. I do agree that keystone correction should be avoided. That said, If your ceiling height or furniture require keystone don’t worry too much about the reduction to resolution (especially 4k) it will be hardly noticeable.


----------



## aronsonstack

oni222 said:


> I could not agree with you more. This response should be stickied for all UST projector threads lol.


Hmm, didn't know that. Are you talking about resolution degradation? Or, are you talking about pulling and dragging the image, therefore images may show curves or warping? Cause if it's the latter, than I don't mind keystoning because I can't see any warpage or curve when I use it because I get it as close as possible, then I use very little keystoning at the points to drag and cover little bits of black spaces.

But if you're saying resolution overall is lowered, then I may stop doing this. Even if the resolution gets lowered, the difference must be minimal because I never noticed anything until you guys told me.


----------



## aronsonstack

BTW guys, when did this thing started shipping? When was their crowdsourcing complete? Cause I don't know if I trust those Amazon reviews. They got reviews as early as Nov 8. I'm too curious, so I had to order it, but honestly, their websites, their youtube sample video, etc.... Nothing has impressed me. I'm hoping it isn't because the product is bad, but because they are inexperience in advertising. Like this is from them: 



 Why would you not get a proper screen? Why are you showing these washed out images?


----------



## oni222

aronsonstack said:


> BTW guys, when did this thing started shipping? When was their crowdsourcing complete? Cause I don't know if I trust those Amazon reviews. They got reviews as early as Nov 8. I'm too curious, so I had to order it, but honestly, their websites, their youtube sample video, etc.... Nothing has impressed me. I'm hoping it isn't because the product is bad, but because they are inexperience in advertising. Like this is from them:
> 
> 
> 
> Why would you not get a proper screen? Why are you showing these washed out images?


That's why I ordered from Amazon because if it lacks in any way I can easily return it.

As for the video you posted it was hilariously bad. I mean if you are planning on selling a projector then the least you can do is use a screen and focus on that versus the phone lol.


----------



## blazed

Casey_Bryson said:


> All electronics have some failures. The Xiaomi Mijia oni owned had a few known issues. My Fengmi is a different design and is a year and a half strong. During that same time period I had two new Denon receivers fail; I'm on the third.
> 
> There's always a risk and I understand what it's like to be unlucky-- it's no fun to say the least so I share your pain Oni.
> 
> 
> In my opinion when the cost is half or more and you get better tech the risk is well worth it. Here's wishing the best for the future Polaris owners! 🤞


The difference is you can easily reach denon customer service when something goes wrong.


----------



## aronsonstack

oni222 said:


> That's why I ordered from Amazon because if it lacks in any way I can easily return it.
> 
> As for the video you posted it was hilariously bad. I mean if you are planning on selling a projector then the least you can do is use a screen and focus on that versus the phone lol.


LOL! Hey look, $2500.. I can miracast my phone onto the wall!


----------



## bradk14

aronsonstack said:


> BTW guys, when did this thing started shipping? When was their crowdsourcing complete? Cause I don't know if I trust those Amazon reviews. They got reviews as early as Nov 8. I'm too curious, so I had to order it, but honestly, their websites, their youtube sample video, etc.... Nothing has impressed me. I'm hoping it isn't because the product is bad, but because they are inexperience in advertising. Like this is from them:
> 
> 
> 
> Why would you not get a proper screen? Why are you showing these washed out images?


those reviews pre-date anything. I think some customers in Asia got them late December and were first. They were reportedly hung up in customs in the US, I got mine less than a week ago.

But as I've said many times, I'm very happy with the image quality. Some are reporting various issues which I am not experiencing. It seems to be luck of the draw, but those not experiencing weird issues seem to agree with me on the quality of the image. I've posted a couple of sample videos here (tho in fairness, I did lower the brightness a bit because the projected image doesn't really take to being captured on video that well)

Anyway, to talk out of school, they contacted me and asked me to post an honest review in exchange for a free screen but it seems amazon has locked down review posts to verified purchases only.


----------



## blazed

bradk14 said:


> Installed my Amazon basics 120” white screen. It becomes painfully obvious that not having keystone correction is a major pain in the ass. I’ll live it with it now. Meanwhile, enjoy some footage from the fast and the furious in 4k (note I took this while sitting so it’s not centered with the screen)
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/a/eR6nrL1


Does it look better in person? Those colors don't look right.


----------



## Jimmeh_msp

blazed said:


> Does it look better in person? Those colors don't look right.


The picture quality really is great. I have various 4k tvs in my house. This has the most vibrant colors and it's not close. That said it needs to be dialed in. Waiting on a colorimeter to be delivered next week so I'm not guessing.


----------



## MarkM78

Jimmeh_msp said:


> The picture quality really is great. I have various 4k tvs in my house. This has the most vibrant colors and it's not close. That said it needs to be dialed in. Waiting on a colorimeter to be delivered next week so I'm not guessing.


When you get it dialed will you share your settings? My Polaris is supposed to be delivered next Tuesday and it would be pure guesswork if I tried adjusting those settings.


----------



## aronsonstack

Is it just me? It seems, out the box, all the samples provided in this thread by various users seem to be on the red/magenta side?


----------



## Meihk

MarkM78 said:


> When you get it dialed will you share your settings? My Polaris is supposed to be delivered next Tuesday and it would be pure guesswork if I tried adjusting those settings.


I agree, it seems oversaturated with deep reds and some blues. That colorimeter will be key and I would very much appreciate the ideal settings as well!


----------



## Casey_Bryson

blazed said:


> The difference is you can easily reach denon customer service when something goes wrong.


Good point, but Denon's aren't half the price of their closest competition either.


----------



## shanec123

Projector came in last night. Must say this thing is insanely bright. First thing I did was go through the whole update process and it took a bit. Have to go do the update manually as there's no prompt. It does the standard OS flashing and then app optimization. I didn't get a lot of time to play with it last night but did hook up the FireCube to it and played around with getting it centered for my screen properly. Posting a link to my favorite image from last night after taking a bunch. Polaris Photo

Going to work on it more today after work and will post more on the findings and review on it.


----------



## Neo42

Does anyone here see the same CA / color bleeding off high contrast white edges / whatever it is that IGG backers are reporting? It's probably the first thing I noticed on mine


----------



## bradk14

Neo42 said:


> Does anyone here see the same CA / color bleeding off high contrast white edges / whatever it is that IGG backers are reporting? It's probably the first thing I noticed on mine


nope. Did you perform the firmware update?


----------



## blazed

Jimmeh_msp said:


> The picture quality really is great. I have various 4k tvs in my house. This has the most vibrant colors and it's not close. That said it needs to be dialed in. Waiting on a colorimeter to be delivered next week so I'm not guessing.


Every picture or video in this thread looks like it has a purple tint. I'm not sure if it's the camera or if it really looks like this in person.


----------



## aronsonstack

blazed said:


> Every picture or video in this thread looks like it has a purple tint. I'm not sure if it's the camera or if it really looks like this in person.


My thoughts exactly. Something is off with this product. They recently had a sale on Amazon that pissed off all their backers. One post in this thread made me go against my gut instincts and pulled the trigger. LOL! The person said they returned the Vava in favor of this, so I just had to check it out. Nothing to lose since I can return it easily to Amazon. The most recent Amazon review, more purple tint samples: Home theater right out of the box.

This is a techradar review, the image samples here are also not great: Bomaker Polaris 4K Ultra Short Throw laser projector review

Not holding my breath. My gut instincts says I'll be returning the BoMaker and keeping my Vava.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Neo42 said:


> Does anyone here see the same CA / color bleeding off high contrast white edges / whatever it is that IGG backers are reporting? It's probabl
> 
> 
> aronsonstack said:
> 
> 
> 
> My thoughts exactly. Something is off with this product. They recently had a sale on Amazon that pissed off all their backers. One post in this thread made me go against my gut instincts and pulled the trigger. LOL! The person said they returned the Vava in favor of this, so I just had to check it out. Nothing to lose since I can return it easily to Amazon. The most recent Amazon review, more purple tint samples: Home theater right out of the box.
> 
> This is a techradar review, the image samples here are also not great: Bomaker Polaris 4K Ultra Short Throw laser projector review
> 
> Not holding my breath. My gut instincts says I'll be returning the BoMaker and keeping my Vava.
> 
> 
> 
> y the first thing I noticed on mine
Click to expand...

Guys chill out. The magenta imaging is likely the same thing that is happening with the Samsung RGB's and likely all RGB's and IPhone cameras. It's fine with the latest Samsung phone cameras. 

Also the CA is happening with the $7000 Samsung too. I'm sure it's a bi-product of a single DMD and three separate lasers. It's just the state of the technology at this point. Chill.

Also if you see RBE you are RBE sensitive and the majority of people don't experience it, but if you do, most single chip DLP's may not work for you. They are great for everyone else who is not sensitive to it.


----------



## aronsonstack

Casey_Bryson said:


> Guys chill out. The magenta imaging is likely the same thing that is happening with the Samsung RGB's and likely all RGB's and IPhone cameras. It's fine with the latest Samsung phone cameras.
> 
> Also the CA is happening with the $7000 Samsung too. I'm sure it's a bi-product of a single DMD and three separate lasers. It's just the state of the technology at this point. Chill.
> 
> Also if you see RBE you are RBE sensitive and the majority of people don't experience it, but if you do, most single chip DLP's may not work for you. They are great for everyone else who is not sensitive to it.


Okay, I'm chillin' like villain! LOL!

Hmm, don't know if I'm RBE sensitive. Is the Vava a single chip DLP? Cause it's not happening to me there. Can this be fixed simply through the color settings? I'm actually not a videophile at all. I'm usually happy with OUT THE BOX default settings, which is what I've been using with Vava.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

aronsonstack said:


> Okay, I'm chillin' like villain! LOL!
> 
> Hmm, don't know if I'm RBE sensitive. Is the Vava a single chip DLP? Cause it's not happening to me there. Can this be fixed simply through the color settings? I'm actually not a videophile at all. I'm usually happy with OUT THE BOX default settings, which is what I've been using with Vava.


Almost all UST's are single chip DLP except the $10-15K Sony which is SXRD.

RBE is due to the (rate of) color cycling of the lasers in 3 laser RGB or single laser with a color wheel. If done fast enough, like some LED RGB's with single chip DLP, those who are sensitive to it won't see RBE either.


----------



## Neo42

Casey_Bryson said:


> Guys chill out. The magenta imaging is likely the same thing that is happening with the Samsung RGB's and likely all RGB's and IPhone cameras. It's fine with the latest Samsung phone cameras.
> 
> Also the CA is happening with the $7000 Samsung too. I'm sure it's a bi-product of a single DMD and three separate lasers. It's just the state of the technology at this point. Chill.
> 
> Also if you see RBE you are RBE sensitive and the majority of people don't experience it, but if you do, most single chip DLP's may not work for you. They are great for everyone else who is not sensitive to it.


I've owned about 6 different DLP projectors (this is my first short one) and have seen RBE on all of them though I am not overly sensitive to it. It's usually something I catch in my peripheral if quickly look away/across the projected image. haven't noticed any RBE on this unit yet.

The CA is fairly distracting to me though. I find it hard to believe it's common if other Polaris owners don't see it at all. Even when it's not super obvious around the edges of a high contrast white area, it creates an over sharpened and hard edge effect that is difficult to ignore.


----------



## geertm2

The CA problem sounds a bit like what happens with your TV when Sharpness is set too high.
Try setting Sharpness to 0 in the projector settings, perhaps that will improve things.


----------



## bradk14

So if I get really close to the screen, I can see a thin green outline of white lettering offset by the upper left and red to the lower right. Sitting about 8 feet away with the 120” screen I don’t notice it at all.

Also admittedly I did detect it was leaning towards red so I shifted the color setting to user and without changing anything, it was a lot better. The photos are still tough to get tho

as an aside, I replaced my Samsung soundbar with a Denon 5.2 receiver and Sony speakers


----------



## oni222

I think I can help most the people here.

First things first let me say this will be my 4th Ultra Short Throw projector so I know a little about this tech.
The vava and others are basically all using the same internals since they are all using the Xiaomi guts. That's not to say that it is bad but on paper this projector should be leagues ahead just from the fact that it has the RGB as separate lasers. Not to mention that the Xiaomi internal components have well established issues (I myself had two out of three fail on me) so I am happy to try this projector and see if it does better.

Secondly I am in the camp that can see the RBE (Rainbow Effect) and when you use a 150" screen like I do the effect is very evident when you look towards on side of the screen and then quickly look at the other side. So I will be able to see if this projector has it and if it does how bad it is compared to the competition.

Third I have a calibrator coming in but I have not calibrated a projector before so please don't expect me to do a professional's job. I will gladly share my settings but it might make your viewing experience worse (every projector is different just like tv's so what works for my projector might look worse for yours). The device I ordered is this one: Amazon.com : X-Rite i1 ColorChecker Pro Photo Kit (EODIS3MSCCPP-B) - i1Display and ColorChecker Passport Photo 2 : Camera & Photo

My projector is arriving on Tuesday so I will be back here with my thoughts after I have it set up.


----------



## Jimmeh_msp

130" screen. Projector still not quite square. Lot of ambient light. What a great way to watch basketball and now football. One quick note. I have 8' walls in my basement. The projector is about five inches off the floor to fill the screen which is five inches from the ceiling


----------



## aronsonstack

oni222 said:


> I think I can help most the people here.
> 
> First things first let me say this will be my 4th Ultra Short Throw projector so I know a little about this tech.
> The vava and others are basically all using the same internals since they are all using the Xiaomi guts. That's not to say that it is bad but on paper this projector should be leagues ahead just from the fact that it has the RGB as separate lasers. Not to mention that the Xiaomi internal components have well established issues (I myself had two out of three fail on me) so I am happy to try this projector and see if it does better.
> 
> Secondly I am in the camp that can see the RBE (Rainbow Effect) and when you use a 150" screen like I do the effect is very evident when you look towards on side of the screen and then quickly look at the other side. So I will be able to see if this projector has it and if it does how bad it is compared to the competition.
> 
> Third I have a calibrator coming in but I have not calibrated a projector before so please don't expect me to do a professional's job. I will gladly share my settings but it might make your viewing experience worse (every projector is different just like tv's so what works for my projector might look worse for yours). The device I ordered is this one: Amazon.com : X-Rite i1 ColorChecker Pro Photo Kit (EODIS3MSCCPP-B) - i1Display and ColorChecker Passport Photo 2 : Camera & Photo
> 
> My projector is arriving on Tuesday so I will be back here with my thoughts after I have it set up.
> View attachment 3079330


Mine says Arriving Thursday, so I'll gladly take your calibrations.  I hope there are no delays. It will be cutting it pretty close for me if there are delays since I got till the 31st to decided on Vava.


----------



## FlyOnTheWall

definently see the red/magenta push in most every photo i have seen.


----------



## blazed

oni222 said:


> I think I can help most the people here.
> 
> First things first let me say this will be my 4th Ultra Short Throw projector so I know a little about this tech.
> The vava and others are basically all using the same internals since they are all using the Xiaomi guts. That's not to say that it is bad but on paper this projector should be leagues ahead just from the fact that it has the RGB as separate lasers. Not to mention that the Xiaomi internal components have well established issues (I myself had two out of three fail on me) so I am happy to try this projector and see if it does better.
> 
> Secondly I am in the camp that can see the RBE (Rainbow Effect) and when you use a 150" screen like I do the effect is very evident when you look towards on side of the screen and then quickly look at the other side. So I will be able to see if this projector has it and if it does how bad it is compared to the competition.
> 
> Third I have a calibrator coming in but I have not calibrated a projector before so please don't expect me to do a professional's job. I will gladly share my settings but it might make your viewing experience worse (every projector is different just like tv's so what works for my projector might look worse for yours). The device I ordered is this one: Amazon.com : X-Rite i1 ColorChecker Pro Photo Kit (EODIS3MSCCPP-B) - i1Display and ColorChecker Passport Photo 2 : Camera & Photo
> 
> My projector is arriving on Tuesday so I will be back here with my thoughts after I have it set up.
> View attachment 3079330


Looking forward to your thoughts on it.


----------



## Low_Rez

Could anyone provide the actual distance from tabletop the Bomaker sits on to the bottom of a fixed screen? 100 - 120" screen size would be ideal. I'll be using a 110" Elitescreen and I'm trying to figure out the height on the new TV stand that I know I'll need to purchase. The bottom of the screen will likely be between 24" - 30" off the floor. There is a good chart on page 4 for Samsung UST's but I have no idea if it is applicable to this pj.


----------



## bradk14

Low_Rez said:


> Could anyone provide the actual distance from tabletop the Bomaker sits on to the bottom of a fixed screen? 100 - 120" screen size would be ideal. I'll be using a 110" Elitescreen and I'm trying to figure out the height on the new TV stand that I know I'll need to purchase. The bottom of the screen will likely be between 24" - 30" off the floor. There is a good chart on page 4 for Samsung UST's but I have no idea if it is applicable to this pj.


unless I don’t know what I’m doing, which I absolutely don’t, the top of mine is 11” off the floor and the back of it is 27” from the wall for approximately 120”.

I used a pc monitor desktop riser as a stand. Prior to that, I used a couple of 9 3/4” cube lockers from ikea which worked but the image was a tad too high.

the bottom of my screen is 23” from the floor as I accidentally hung it too low. The viewing is fine it’s just it’d be nice to raise the projector slightly.

ETA: I checked the Samsung manual which says the bottom of the projector should be 17.3” below the screen for 120” and it’s pretty close here, maybe a little lower. The bomaker also apparently projects a larger image from a closer distance as well


----------



## Low_Rez

Thanks bradk. Great info and exactly what I needed.


----------



## joy123

I don't see the purple/magenta tint in-person, only in the captured video using my phone. I ran this 4k reference quality video on my Nvidia Shield Youtube app with stats enabled. Open Youtube app and search for the keywords - LXb3EKWsInQ and oh904_HdkwY - case sensitive. To enable stats, click on the three vertical dots icon after starting the video, make sure the playback quality is 2160p, then click o n stats icon. Make sure the internet bandwidth is high and both current/optimum resolution is 2160p.


----------



## hifiand3dfan

EDIT:
Does anybody have a link to the user manual to read/study?

Apologies if it has been asked before - for some reason I cannot figure out how to search within the thread.
I am wondering if I can ceiling mount this projector? Planning to use it with a 180" motorized screen (non ALR). How feasible is a) ceiling mounting, b) using it with a non-ALR screen?


----------



## bradk14

hifiand3dfan said:


> EDIT:
> Does anybody have a link to the user manual to read/study?
> 
> Apologies if it has been asked before - for some reason I cannot figure out how to search within the thread.
> I am wondering if I can ceiling mount this projector? Planning to use it with a 180" motorized screen (non ALR). How feasible is a) ceiling mounting, b) using it with a non-ALR screen?


user manual: https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/D1mUAIx0VrS.pdf

they say it can be ceiling mounted (the option is there to flip the image) but they also advise it weighs about 25 lbs so you need the proper mount.

it works just fine without an ALR screen. Image is bright enough but may be a little washed out in a non-light controlled room. You might consider a grey screen if that’s the case.

I use an amazonbasics non-alr white screen. I have one window in the room with a western exposure and light during the day is minimal with the blinds closed but I installed light blocking curtains which also helps.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

hifiand3dfan said:


> EDIT:
> Does anybody have a link to the user manual to read/study?
> 
> Apologies if it has been asked before - for some reason I cannot figure out how to search within the thread.
> I am wondering if I can ceiling mount this projector? Planning to use it with a 180" motorized screen (non ALR). How feasible is a) ceiling mounting, b) using it with a non-ALR screen?


You're going to see part of the image reflected into the floor without a CLR screen (flipped upside down for ceiling mount); the angle is too great.


----------



## oni222

Casey_Bryson said:


> You're going to see part of the image reflected into the floor without a CLR screen (flipped upside down for ceiling mount); the angle is too great.


Casey is right, I use a non UST ALR screen (a super expensive one too) and there is light bleeding into my ceiling. Honestly I kind of like it because it makes me feel like the ceiling is getting ambient light like some TV's have for their back mounts.


----------



## godfishes

Low_Rez said:


> Could anyone provide the actual distance from tabletop the Bomaker sits on to the bottom of a fixed screen? 100 - 120" screen size would be ideal. I'll be using a 110" Elitescreen and I'm trying to figure out the height on the new TV stand that I know I'll need to purchase. The bottom of the screen will likely be between 24" - 30" off the floor. There is a good chart on page 4 for Samsung UST's but I have no idea if it is applicable to this pj.


15.75" from wall to back of unit (closest to wall)for a 124" screen for me.


----------



## bradk14

oni222 said:


> Casey is right, I use a non UST ALR screen (a super expensive one too) and there is light bleeding into my ceiling. Honestly I kind of like it because it makes me feel like the ceiling is getting ambient light like some TV's have for their back mounts.


how does an ALR prevent anything from reaching the ceiling? the ALR can only stop what hits it, and it's already accepting what comes from the UST. Is the suggestion that whatever hits the ceiling is coming from the flat screen itself somehow?

I do have a trace amount of something hitting my ceiling. it's completely unnoticeable when watching content. the dark grey bars instead of black is worse and even that's forgivable. I imagine some black velvet type stuff on the floor would help with anything extraneous being projected from a ceiling mount.


----------



## oni222

bradk14 said:


> how does an ALR prevent anything from reaching the ceiling? the ALR can only stop what hits it, and it's already accepting what comes from the UST. Is the suggestion that whatever hits the ceiling is coming from the flat screen itself somehow?
> 
> I do have a trace amount of something hitting my ceiling. it's completely unnoticeable when watching content. the dark grey bars instead of black is worse and even that's forgivable. I imagine some black velvet type stuff on the floor would help with anything extraneous being projected from a ceiling mount.


The UST screens are ribbed so it reflects any light that comes from below the screen towards you.


----------



## bradk14

well, the screen itself reflects the image. the ALR 'ribs' just reject light coming from other directions, but explicitly accepts light coming from the UST's direction anyway. but that doesn't really answer my question about leakage to the ceiling/floor. that light is going above/below the ALR/CLR screen, so the screen wouldn't block it regardless (it would still be permitting it even if it hit the screen). So my question was about what's hitting the ceiling? is that because the projector is slightly misaligned with the screen and part of the projected image is going above it? or is the screen magically bouncing light upwards in addition towards the viewer? because I'm not sure that's how light works, nor can I imagine that a flat screen would reflect images at 180 degrees upwards (and it stands to reason that light if light would bounce upwards on a non-textured screen, that it should also bounce downwards).

basically what I'm saying is if you extend that second line from the left upwards, it misses the screen completely, so that would show on the ceiling. the ALR screen wouldn't protect that from happening, and I don't think a non-textured screen is permitting it either. it's more about alignment.

but I digress. maybe this just isn't my area.


----------



## oni222

bradk14 said:


> well, the screen itself reflects the image. the ALR 'ribs' just reject light coming from other directions, but explicitly accepts light coming from the UST's direction anyway. but that doesn't really answer my question about leakage to the ceiling/floor. that light is going above/below the ALR/CLR screen, so the screen wouldn't block it regardless (it would still be permitting it even if it hit the screen). So my question was about what's hitting the ceiling? is that because the projector is slightly misaligned with the screen and part of the projected image is going above it? or is the screen magically bouncing light upwards in addition towards the viewer? because I'm not sure that's how light works, nor can I imagine that a flat screen would reflect images at 180 degrees upwards (and it stands to reason that light if light would bounce upwards on a non-textured screen, that it should also bounce downwards).
> 
> basically what I'm saying is if you extend that second line from the left upwards, it misses the screen completely, so that would show on the ceiling. the ALR screen wouldn't protect that from happening, and I don't think a non-textured screen is permitting it either. it's more about alignment.
> 
> but I digress. maybe this just isn't my area.


So I have not received the Bomaker UST but with my other 3 UST projectors the only light leakage I had was because I did not use the screen with the ribs. I got a sample of the screen and put it near where I would get light leakage and it would fix it. Problem is my screen cost me $1000 (UST screens did not exist when I purchased it) so I don't feel like buying another 150" screen.


----------



## tmpayne91

I just got this from the sale on Amazon today. It’s my first projector and I am a bit confused by the manual. It says when it’s not in use it should be unplugged? Is this a mandatory power saving warning or something because it seems like it’s off when I use the “turn off” option through the devices menu. I guess it’s just in standby because it has the front white led on but very dim.


----------



## bradk14

tmpayne91 said:


> I just got this from the sale on Amazon today. It’s my first projector and I am a bit confused by the manual. It says when it’s not in use it should be unplugged? Is this a mandatory power saving warning or something because it seems like it’s off when I use the “turn off” option through the devices menu. I guess it’s just in standby because it has the front white led on but very dim.


not sure where you’re seeing that. Page 1 says power should be cut off if projector isn’t being used ‘for a long time’ specifically. Which is actually standard safety advice. If the device is unable to draw power, it doesn’t become a safety issue.

Also the power indicator should be solid white when on and actually pulses (fades in and out) when the device is powered off.

also you can power it off by just using the power button on the remote. It brings up a screen and starts a timer which you can confirm right away by pressing the power button again, cancel by pressing back or set a sleep timer or just shut the screen off.

I either use the power on the remote or eventually my appletv will shut it off along with my receiver via cec


----------



## MarkM78

bradk14 said:


> I either use the power on the remote or eventually my appletv will shut it off along with my receiver via cec


My current PJ has a separate button for on and off which I like a lot, it makes it easier for me to tell my FireTV Cube that I want to turn on/off the projector and for it to do exactly what I want. I will likely need to go the CEC route since it does not appear to have separate signals for on/off, or at least does not appear to have that capability. I get mine tomorrow and can't wait to hook it up.


----------



## Distillz

Just got mine in the mail today and set it up. Haven't tweaked color much, but it's definitely true that when taking a picture it will come out with a pink/magenta color around the area that the light reflects. It's apparent when taking a picture, but not quite as obvious to the naked eye. 

As for coil whine, I was able to notice it coming from the left side of the projector once a picture was projected, after the initial boot up. I will note that I have sensitive hearing. When sitting back about 10-12 ft away, the coil whine is less to the point I can almost not hear it unless I'm searching for it. As for the fan noise I will always hear it. When the house is quiet during night time, the noise really stand out and can get loud enough that I'm considering building myself a custom stand/cabinet similar to the ones that are made for the LG HU85LA to muffle the fan noise if I do keep it. Perhaps I got a bad unit, as I'm seeing nobody have issues with noise, or my ears are too sensitive.

For those who are RBE sensitive you will notice it here from time to time especially if you watch with subtitles, as you're constantly moving your focus from one point to the other quickly. I've had experience with both LSP7T, LSP9T, VAVA, and the Optoma p1. All of which have RBE just simply because single chip DLP. I would say this projector is comparable to the LSP9T and the LSP7T being the worse of the ones I've used in terms of RBE.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Distillz said:


> Just got mine in the mail today and set it up. Haven't tweaked color much, but it's definitely true that when taking a picture it will come out with a pink/magenta color around the area that the light reflects. It's apparent when taking a picture, but not quite as obvious to the naked eye.
> 
> As for coil whine, I was able to notice it coming from the left side of the projector once a picture was projected, after the initial boot up. I will note that I have sensitive hearing. When sitting back about 10-12 ft away, the coil whine is less to the point I can almost not hear it unless I'm searching for it. As for the fan noise I will always hear it. When the house is quiet during night time, the noise really stand out and can get loud enough that I'm considering building myself a custom stand/cabinet similar to the ones that are made for the LG HU85LA to muffle the fan noise if I do keep it. Perhaps I got a bad unit, as I'm seeing nobody have issues with noise, or my ears are too sensitive.
> 
> For those who are RBE sensitive you will notice it here from time to time especially if you watch with subtitles, as you're constantly moving your focus from one point to the other quickly. I've had experience with both LSP7T, LSP9T, VAVA, and the Optoma p1. All of which have RBE just simply because single chip DLP. I would say this projector is comparable to the LSP9T and the LSP7T being the worse of the ones I've used in terms of RBE.


Curious to hear your answer to the $4000 question: how does it compare with the LSP9T?

And since you've seen the Vava which has the best native contrast of the UST's you've experience: how does the Polaris compare to it contrast wise? Does it compare or is it half as good like the others?


----------



## Distillz

Casey_Bryson said:


> Curious to hear your answer to the $4000 question: how does it compare with the LSP9T?
> 
> And since you've seen the Vava which has the best native contrast of the UST's you've experience: how does the Polaris compare to it contrast wise? Does it compare or is it half as good like the others?


In terms of contrast I would pick the VAVA. The blacks lean a bit closer to gray vs the other projectors I've used. Other colors aside from black do seem off on the presets and since I'm not a professional calibrator I only judge right out the box and it's presets. Samsung LSP9T hands down has the better picture quality and does not have any pink/magenta showing reflected off the surrounding wall. Even the LSP7T I think looks better due to better color presets, blacks also being more black, and motion smoothing/judder settings that Samsung hasare better than the pure motion on Bomaker. As for the price I paid for, at $2100 after tax, definitely the Bomaker over the LSP9T. After some color adjustments you will have a very similar experience. Not worth the extra $4000 now that this is out.


----------



## lilbuddha

Thank you for the impressions - is it worth buying this and returning the vava if the cost for both is the same? I'm not too happy with the coil noise for the vava but seems like the bomaker is at least as noisy although I read it should run cooler/more efficiently.



Distillz said:


> In terms of contrast I would pick the VAVA. The blacks lean a bit closer to gray vs the other projectors I've used. Other colors aside from black do seem off on the presets and since I'm not a professional calibrator I only judge right out the box and it's presets. Samsung LSP9T hands down has the better picture quality and does not have any pink/magenta showing reflected off the surrounding wall. Even the LSP7T I think looks better due to better color presets, blacks also being more black, and motion smoothing/judder settings that Samsung hasare better than the pure motion on Bomaker. As for the price I paid for, at $2100 after tax, definitely the Bomaker over the LSP9T. After some color adjustments you will have a very similar experience. Not worth the extra $4000 now that this is out.


----------



## oni222

lilbuddha said:


> Thank you for the impressions - is it worth buying this and returning the vava if the cost for both is the same? I'm not too happy with the coil noise for the vava but seems like the bomaker is at least as noisy although I read it should run cooler/more efficiently.


UPS is here so I should have more info soon too!


----------



## monakh

Mine should be here (in the Middle East) by Sunday, as well. Can't wait.


----------



## oni222

Ok so I am in the process of packaging this projector and sending it back for a full refund...

The projector is blurry around the edges to the point that it makes text completely unreadable. The Xiaomi + clones have a digital option that does the equivalent as lens focus from the normal projectors that fixes this issue but for the life of me I cannot find the option for this projector.

I have to say that the color options in this projector are leagues ahead of Xiaomi+clones and I really wanted this projector to work but image clarity is the whole point of home theater setups and this image is a blurry mess! The middle of the screen is clear but anything outside of that gets progressively more blurry.

Has anybody found an option to focus the picture?


----------



## Distillz

lilbuddha said:


> Thank you for the impressions - is it worth buying this and returning the vava if the cost for both is the same? I'm not too happy with the coil noise for the vava but seems like the bomaker is at least as noisy although I read it should run cooler/more efficiently.


The noise on this is less than the VAVA. I have very sensitive hearing and can hear the coil whine on the Bomaker, especially when the brightness is at max. There is a light setting from 1-10 to adjust brightness. At 5 and up the coil whine is higher pitched and louder. At 5 it's pretty quiet. It only bothers me when I pause a show and that's all I hear. However it is much more bearable than the VAVA in my opinion. I say that because I've asked whether my family members could hear it or not, and all of them couldn't unless they physically walked up and put their ears right where the coil whine is emitted, at the air vents. 

Long story short, *YES* if noise is your concern, Bomaker no doubt is better and worth to swap for. Even without the extra 20% discount during the first week it was on Amazon, it's worth it to choose over the other current ones out. Unless of course your pockets are deep and you are willing to shell out another 4-5k for slightly better quality of the LSP9T.


----------



## aronsonstack

Distillz said:


> The noise on this is less than the VAVA. I have very sensitive hearing and can hear the coil whine on the Bomaker, especially when the brightness is at max. There is a light setting from 1-10 to adjust brightness. At 5 and up the coil whine is higher pitched and louder. At 5 it's pretty quiet. It only bothers me when I pause a show and that's all I hear. However it is much more bearable than the VAVA in my opinion. I say that because I've asked whether my family members could hear it or not, and all of them couldn't unless they physically walked up and put their ears right where the coil whine is emitted, at the air vents.
> 
> Long story short, *YES* if noise is your concern, Bomaker no doubt is better and worth to swap for. Even without the extra 20% discount during the first week it was on Amazon, it's worth it to choose over the other current ones out. Unless of course your pockets are deep and you are willing to shell out another 4-5k for slightly better quality of the LSP9T.


What if coil is not a concern. I feel like I got a great one. I don't hear any coil with Vava, I got the black version. In terms of picture quality, for me contrast is important, and I think if Bomaker is more gray than black, than I'd have to stick with my Vava.


----------



## bradk14

oni222 said:


> Ok so I am in the process of packaging this projector and sending it back for a full refund...
> 
> The projector is blurry around the edges to the point that it makes text completely unreadable. The Xiaomi + clones have a digital option that does the equivalent as lens focus from the normal projectors that fixes this issue but for the life of me I cannot find the option for this projector.
> 
> I have to say that the color options in this projector are leagues ahead of Xiaomi+clones and I really wanted this projector to work but image clarity is the whole point of home theater setups and this image is a blurry mess! The middle of the screen is clear but anything outside of that gets progressively more blurry.
> 
> Has anybody found an option to focus the picture?


no focus. But most don’t seem to have this issue either. The qa seems questionable. Tho it’s also important to ask if you’ve updated the firmware as I have no clue what it looks like prior to the update


----------



## bradk14

aronsonstack said:


> What if coil is not a concern. I feel like I got a great one. I don't hear any coil with Vava, I got the black version. In terms of picture quality, for me contrast is important, and I think if Bomaker is more gray than black, than I'd have to stick with my Vava.


at least on a white screen, the blacks are very grey and noticeable if you look for them. Obviously more pronounced with bars added to compensate for ratio. No idea what vava does but I can only compare to my OLED tv which naturally has pure blacks. That said, I believe the color is much better on this over my OLED. 

was watching a bit of fury road last night and was floored.


----------



## Tlamfitstoronto

Tv RF


----------



## IanLaurie

So I have one ordered. Should be delivered Thursday. For what its worth I spent a few years doing specialized digital imaging for the film industry before moving on. I am very very picky about image quality and if i could I would buy the nicest projector on the planet. However I still have a limited budget, so like everyone else here am hoping this is “good enough” to “great”. Having said all that. I will come back here with my impression, and will run tests with personally shot 4K footage from a cinema camera. I don’t expect perfection, but if it can perform the way I am hoping I will be thrilled. I also have an elite screens clr alr screen arriving next week. I will do my tests again and let you know my impressions.


----------



## Distillz

aronsonstack said:


> What if coil is not a concern. I feel like I got a great one. I don't hear any coil with Vava, I got the black version. In terms of picture quality, for me contrast is important, and I think if Bomaker is more gray than black, than I'd have to stick with my Vava.


The VAVA has the darker blacks, but all other colors show better and are more vibrant on the Bomaker. If you've already spent on the VAVA, its not a bad idea to just stick with it until an even better projector hits the market this year, but that's just wishful thinking. In the meantime, I'm ordering a 0.4 gain clr screen from grandview and hopefully it helps make the blacks much darker.


----------



## USTMan

Just got mine and noticed the right edge is not straight. Is this something normal with UST?


----------



## bix26

bradk14 said:


> no focus. But most don’t seem to have this issue either. The qa seems questionable. Tho it’s also important to ask if you’ve updated the firmware as I have no clue what it looks like prior to the update


No Focus? How about zoom? It has to have one or the other.


----------



## bix26

USTMan said:


> Just got mine and noticed the right edge is not straight. Is this something normal with UST?
> View attachment 3080842


That is most likely your wall. Even the slightest imperfections on the projected surface will result in those kinds of distortions.


----------



## USTMan

bix26 said:


> That is most likely your wall. Even the slightest imperfections on the projected surface will result in those kinds of distortions.


ok my screen is coming soon.. thank you!


----------



## Low_Rez

Received mine this morning. Just turned it on, casting to a while wall - the screen I'm assembling isn't ready yet. A smoke detector on wired circuit began chirping like a low battery which was odd, perhaps just a coincidence. Flipping the breaker off and back on then climbing on a ladder and hitting the reset switch silenced it, thankfully. The noise from the pj scared me at first, I've gotten rid of previous (bulb) pj's because of it. The pj was off while I was futzing with the smoke detector and after turning it back on, I can't hear it now which is awesome. Picture looks Nice! But these are just menu and test screens. Firmware on it was from Oct 2020, it is now updating to the Dec 22, 2020 version. I'm very encouraged by what I'm seeing so far. Can't wait to get it on a screen and get some good content on it.


----------



## aronsonstack

Distillz said:


> The VAVA has the darker blacks, but all other colors show better and are more vibrant on the Bomaker. If you've already spent on the VAVA, its not a bad idea to just stick with it until an even better projector hits the market this year, but that's just wishful thinking. In the meantime, I'm ordering a 0.4 gain clr screen from grandview and hopefully it helps make the blacks much darker.


What screen are you using? In any case, I'll see for myself soon. I do use an ALR screen from XY Screen. If I do like the Bomaker, one good thing is that I can add a 4 yr warranty to it. That is something I forgot to do with Vava and passed the 30 days.


----------



## Distillz

aronsonstack said:


> What screen are you using? In any case, I'll see for myself soon. I do use an ALR screen from XY Screen. If I do like the Bomaker, one good thing is that I can add a 4 yr warranty to it. That is something I forgot to do with Vava and passed the 30 days.


I was using a 120" Aeon alr from elite screens with the Cinewhite material. Probably not the best choice of material, should've gone with a grey. But, I have since taken it down and am preparing it to be sent off to the next guy. I just project onto my wall now, pretty much have the same/very close viewing experience due to how bright the bomaker already is. Word around the forum is that CLR or UST specific surface materials are much better, hence why I'm now going with the Grandview Dynamique.


----------



## aronsonstack

oni222 said:


> Ok so I am in the process of packaging this projector and sending it back for a full refund...
> 
> The projector is blurry around the edges to the point that it makes text completely unreadable. The Xiaomi + clones have a digital option that does the equivalent as lens focus from the normal projectors that fixes this issue but for the life of me I cannot find the option for this projector.
> 
> I have to say that the color options in this projector are leagues ahead of Xiaomi+clones and I really wanted this projector to work but image clarity is the whole point of home theater setups and this image is a blurry mess! The middle of the screen is clear but anything outside of that gets progressively more blurry.
> 
> Has anybody found an option to focus the picture?


Surprised you're giving up so quick. Get back in the trenches! We need your calibrations. LOL! Did you update to latest firmware?


----------



## tmpayne91

Can anyone comment on what type of screen should be used for this? Material/color?


----------



## Meihk

tmpayne91 said:


> Can anyone comment on what type of screen should be used for this? Material/color?


In general it depends on the ambient light you have in the room but a good bet is to use a CLR (ceiling light rejecting) screen which is made specifically for ultra short throw projectors. Elite screens, Elunevision and Akia are a few manufacturers but I'm getting mine through Alibaba, a Telon 120" PET crystal. Essentially a cheaper CLR screen.


----------



## tmpayne91

Meihk said:


> In general it depends on the ambient light you have in the room but a good bet is to use a CLR (ceiling light rejecting) screen which is made specifically for ultra short throw projectors. Elite screens, Elunevision and Akia are a few manufacturers but I'm getting mine through Alibaba, a Telon 120" PET crystal. Essentially a cheaper CLR screen.


my whole house is blacked out 247. I work at night and definitely if I’m watching a movie it’s pitch black. Not sure I need to spend more because of that.


----------



## blazed

oni222 said:


> Ok so I am in the process of packaging this projector and sending it back for a full refund...
> 
> The projector is blurry around the edges to the point that it makes text completely unreadable. The Xiaomi + clones have a digital option that does the equivalent as lens focus from the normal projectors that fixes this issue but for the life of me I cannot find the option for this projector.
> 
> I have to say that the color options in this projector are leagues ahead of Xiaomi+clones and I really wanted this projector to work but image clarity is the whole point of home theater setups and this image is a blurry mess! The middle of the screen is clear but anything outside of that gets progressively more blurry.
> 
> Has anybody found an option to focus the picture?


Do you plan to try any other tweaks or update the firmware before returning the unit?


----------



## oni222

blazed said:


> Do you plan to try any other tweaks or update the firmware before returning the unit?


I am on the highest firmware and I have tried every single option from the projector.

On another note colors where bad too but the projector has some good settings to tweak them. I feel the color issues can be fixed with a calibration tool.

Sadly the out of focus is so bad that it is unbearable. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sirlinux

aronsonstack said:


> What screen are you using? In any case, I'll see for myself soon. I do use an ALR screen from XY Screen. If I do like the Bomaker, one good thing is that I can add a 4 yr warranty to it. That is something I forgot to do with Vava and passed the 30 days.


From where can you add a 4 year warranty?


----------



## lilbuddha

Distillz said:


> The noise on this is less than the VAVA. I have very sensitive hearing and can hear the coil whine on the Bomaker, especially when the brightness is at max. There is a light setting from 1-10 to adjust brightness. At 5 and up the coil whine is higher pitched and louder. At 5 it's pretty quiet. It only bothers me when I pause a show and that's all I hear. However it is much more bearable than the VAVA in my opinion. I say that because I've asked whether my family members could hear it or not, and all of them couldn't unless they physically walked up and put their ears right where the coil whine is emitted, at the air vents.
> 
> Long story short, *YES* if noise is your concern, Bomaker no doubt is better and worth to swap for. Even without the extra 20% discount during the first week it was on Amazon, it's worth it to choose over the other current ones out. Unless of course your pockets are deep and you are willing to shell out another 4-5k for slightly better quality of the LSP9T.


Thank you - that makes my desicion. Yes I set up a return for the vava and have until the end of feb to return it from amazon. Somehow it has a dust speck stuck behind the projector as well which shows up in certain colors and is really bothersome so I had been wanting to return it anyways. Amazon doesnt allow exchanges so I had been waiting for the vava to go on sale again for 1950 as could find other budget alternatives, but seems bomaker may be a good call. Do we still have free returns via amazon? I see free returns for the vava but nothing clearly specified on the bomaker page.

Where can you get an extended warranty? vava you had to register to get 2 years.


----------



## aronsonstack

sirlinux said:


> From where can you add a 4 year warranty?


It was an option when ordering. This is the option that popped up. 

But it was a sale, and the system didn't take into account the final price. What should have popped up is THIS ONE.


----------



## blazed

oni222 said:


> I am on the highest firmware and I have tried every single option from the projector.
> 
> On another note colors where bad too but the projector has some good settings to tweak them. I feel the color issues can be fixed with a calibration tool.
> 
> Sadly the out of focus is so bad that it is unbearable.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Damn that sucks to hear. Thanks for your input.


----------



## RedHotFuzz

It seems all the comparisons here are between the Bomaker/Vava at similar price points and the $6k Samsung unit. I’m curious why there isn’t much comparison talk about the Optoma P2 at little more than a thousand-dollar premium to the Bomaker.


----------



## dbpaddler

So I somewhat set mine up tonight. I can definitely see the frustration in squaring up the image. Makes me want to make a stand for this that is like that old marble tilting maze game to try and square things up. Maybe add a rotation aspect to it. 

Right now it's just the cheap pull down screen with waves galore, but I just picked up a tab tensioned 100" ALR VividStorm for $450 that should arrive next week. And my beams run across so I might even be able to recess it into the ceiling. 


https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07PT7JGZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_wr7bGb44JH4E0



Figure one way or the other, it'll become the permanent screen in my makeshift setup even if I don't keep the Bomaker. Right now, I took the cheap pull down off the stand and wall mounted it. 

But from just this quick setup, I think it's pretty impressive for the price. I haven't done an AB, but it seems like it's giving my Epson Pro g7500u a run for its money. I don't think the out of box colors are bad. HDR User and standard color temp seems to be nice.

And that red or magenta push is definitely a picture thing. What the camera sees is not what the eyes see. Will be interesting to see how it can look with someone's proper calibration. Definitely not my strong suit.

Makes me wonder what this would look like in my blacked out theater room against my old JVC, and if I'd prefer it despite the lesser black levels. And if so, then I'd have all sorts of things to figure out. 

Might have to take this to my sister's for the superbowl. Going to make her 75" Sony seem small. And then her boyfriend will probably go buy one... Haha. 

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk


----------



## aronsonstack

RedHotFuzz said:


> It seems all the comparisons here are between the Bomaker/Vava at similar price points and the $6k Samsung unit. I’m curious why there isn’t much comparison talk about the Optoma P2 at little more than a thousand-dollar premium to the Bomaker.


I think it's because people want to stay at the $2k and lower budget (when on sale of course), and if they can get Samsung performance at this budget, that's even better. Vava and Bomaker has been the only $2500 to $3000k projectors that have dropped below $2k due to sales and coupons. I haven't seen the P2 drop to $2k. No sales, no coupons, etc. And since it's a toss up to some in terms of performance between P2 and Vava, why pay more? That's my logic.


----------



## tmpayne91

dbpaddler said:


> So I somewhat set mine up tonight. I can definitely see the frustration in squaring up the image. Makes me want to make a stand for this that is like that old marble tilting maze game to try and square things up. Maybe add a rotation aspect to it.
> 
> Right now it's just the cheap pull down screen with waves galore, but I just picked up a tab tensioned 100" ALR VividStorm for $450 that should arrive next week. And my beams run across so I might even be able to recess it into the ceiling.
> 
> 
> https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07PT7JGZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_wr7bGb44JH4E0
> 
> 
> 
> Figure one way or the other, it'll become the permanent screen in my makeshift setup even if I don't keep the Bomaker. Right now, I took the cheap pull down off the stand and wall mounted it.
> 
> But from just this quick setup, I think it's pretty impressive for the price. I haven't done an AB, but it seems like it's giving my Epson Pro g7500u a run for its money. I don't think the out of box colors are bad. HDR User and standard color temp seems to be nice.
> 
> And that red or magenta push is definitely a picture thing. What the camera sees is not what the eyes see. Will be interesting to see how it can look with someone's proper calibration. Definitely not my strong suit.
> 
> Makes me wonder what this would look like in my blacked out theater room against my old JVC, and if I'd prefer it despite the lesser black levels. And if so, then I'd have all sorts of things to figure out.
> 
> Might have to take this to my sister's for the superbowl. Going to make her 75" Sony seem small. And then her boyfriend will probably go buy one... Haha.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk


I was thinking of a very small/short tripod stand. But I can’t find a good quality one with a large enough tray to fit the projector let alone support the weight. I’m not at home now so I can’t check but is there a 1/4 inch mount on the bottom? If there is I’d stick that on a short tripod and be done with it


----------



## geertm2

@dbpaddler: How were you able to get that Vividstorm screen for only $450?


----------



## lilbuddha

dbpaddler said:


> So I somewhat set mine up tonight. I can definitely see the frustration in squaring up the image. Makes me want to make a stand for this that is like that old marble tilting maze game to try and square things up. Maybe add a rotation aspect to it.
> 
> Right now it's just the cheap pull down screen with waves galore, but I just picked up a tab tensioned 100" ALR VividStorm for $450 that should arrive next week. And my beams run across so I might even be able to recess it into the ceiling.
> 
> 
> https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07PT7JGZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_wr7bGb44JH4E0
> 
> 
> 
> Figure one way or the other, it'll become the permanent screen in my makeshift setup even if I don't keep the Bomaker. Right now, I took the cheap pull down off the stand and wall mounted it.
> 
> But from just this quick setup, I think it's pretty impressive for the price. I haven't done an AB, but it seems like it's giving my Epson Pro g7500u a run for its money. I don't think the out of box colors are bad. HDR User and standard color temp seems to be nice.
> 
> And that red or magenta push is definitely a picture thing. What the camera sees is not what the eyes see. Will be interesting to see how it can look with someone's proper calibration. Definitely not my strong suit.
> 
> Makes me wonder what this would look like in my blacked out theater room against my old JVC, and if I'd prefer it despite the lesser black levels. And if so, then I'd have all sorts of things to figure out.
> 
> Might have to take this to my sister's for the superbowl. Going to make her 75" Sony seem small. And then her boyfriend will probably go buy one... Haha.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk


Did you get the ultra short throw version? apparantly the long the long focus alr may not work as it may be too close to the screen and may not reflect the light back properly.


----------



## dbpaddler

tmpayne91 said:


> I was thinking of a very small/short tripod stand. But I can’t find a good quality one with a large enough tray to fit the projector let alone support the weight. I’m not at home now so I can’t check but is there a 1/4 inch mount on the bottom? If there is I’d stick that on a short tripod and be done with it


I want to do a Fold out wall mount. So I can fold it up when I'm not using it. Could use adhesive or screw on rubber feet that would cup the projector feet so it's always in the same spot. But I'll probably bounce around target or home goods and see if there's something simple.

They do make those quick setup camping tables and some have adjustable length legs. 

Surprised with how the UST market has grown there isn't something simple and adjustable in height to accommodate screen size/distance differences.

The other thing I was thinking was just using a simple pipe mount like the chief ones. But just use off shelf the floor flanges to hold the shelf and base. And then you can just buy different length extension tubes which are cheap. 

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk


----------



## dbpaddler

lilbuddha said:


> Did you get the ultra short throw version? apparantly the long the long focus alr may not work as it may be too close to the screen and may not reflect the light back properly.


I bought the one in the link. I don't care if it's not perfect. It'll be much better than a cheap pull down or basic tab tensioned screen. And they even commented in the questions it could be used for UST. I think some reviews mentioned using it for ust. 

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk


----------



## dbpaddler

geertm2 said:


> @dbpaddler: How were you able to get that Vividstorm screen for only $450?


Like new open box shipped direct from them. I always comb Amazon for open box deals. Saved about $400+ on my 135" Starling tab tension screen. 

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk


----------



## bradk14

(Delete)


----------



## lilbuddha

dbpaddler said:


> I bought the one in the link. I don't care if it's not perfect. It'll be much better than a cheap pull down or basic tab tensioned screen. And they even commented in the questions it could be used for UST. I think some reviews mentioned using it for ust.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk


I was researching this and becuase alr is meant to reduce light reflections from certain angles, it doesnt work well for ust from my understanding- which needs a CLR. let us know how it works that was a great price.


----------



## monakh

oni222 said:


> I am on the highest firmware and I have tried every single option from the projector.
> 
> On another note colors where bad too but the projector has some good settings to tweak them. I feel the color issues can be fixed with a calibration tool.
> 
> Sadly the out of focus is so bad that it is unbearable.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


We discussed the focus issue quite a bit a week or more ago as people started receiving their PJs on the IG comments page. I recall thinking and hoping it won't end up being like all my LGs (up to the PF1500) which had serious focus issues. Now, it does not impact videos and movie viewing and in general is just an issue if you view a lot of text on a PC.

I really think you should give this a chance, I doubt it's a unit defect. I am sure they are all like this (I am dreading it, as well).


----------



## aronsonstack

geertm2 said:


> @dbpaddler: How were you able to get that Vividstorm screen for only $450?


ALR screens for standard projectors are much more affordable than the ones specifically made for UST projectors.


----------



## lilbuddha

dbpaddler said:


> I want to do a Fold out wall mount. So I can fold it up when I'm not using it. Could use adhesive or screw on rubber feet that would cup the projector feet so it's always in the same spot. But I'll probably bounce around target or home goods and see if there's something simple.
> 
> They do make those quick setup camping tables and some have adjustable length legs.
> 
> Surprised with how the UST market has grown there isn't something simple and adjustable in height to accommodate screen size/distance differences.
> 
> The other thing I was thinking was just using a simple pipe mount like the chief ones. But just use off shelf the floor flanges to hold the shelf and base. And then you can just buy different length extension tubes which are cheap.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk


I hear you - its especially frustrating if you want to hook up a 5.1 channel system with a center speaker. I'm using a tab tensioned rollable screen - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0856XNDPQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - as a temporay solution for my vava. I watch at night so its not too bad but even with it tab tensioned, the screen is a little bowed out on the edges so its not the best by any means.


----------



## aronsonstack

lilbuddha said:


> I was researching this and becuase alr is meant to reduce light reflections from certain angles, it doesnt work well for ust from my understanding- which needs a CLR. let us know how it works that was a great price.


Many people have done some leg work on this, including myself. I got samples from XY screen, Elite Screen, etc. What we learn is that it's all the same stuff. It's just they name it differently to separate themselves. Unless, something has changed since I researched almost a year ago, most sellers are getting their "pet crystal" material from one factory in Taiwan. When Vava offered their own ALR screen. I contacted them if it's any different than Elite or XY Screen, since I'm seeing different gain levels advertised. They confirmed they only know of one place in Taiwan that's making these screens, and that the various gain levels are basically mumbo jumbo, and that companies having different methods on how they test gain. But the most important thing is to make sure the material is pet crystal. 

I am curious about Screen Innovations. They priced themselves above everyone and I'm wondering if theirs are really any better. Who is their supplier, do they make their own?


----------



## dbpaddler

aronsonstack said:


> ALR screens for standard projectors are much more affordable than the ones specifically made for UST projectors.


Regardless, it's normally $200 more. 

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk


----------



## dbpaddler

lilbuddha said:


> I hear you - its especially frustrating if you want to hook up a 5.1 channel system with a center speaker. I'm using a tab tensioned rollable screen - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0856XNDPQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - as a temporay solution for my vava. I watch at night so its not too bad but even with it tab tensioned, the screen is a little bowed out on the edges so its not the best by any means.


Funny. I have the non tensioned version of that screen now. Was a quarantine purchase. But for dual purpose rooms, fixed screens are aren't always ideal, and there's always a trade off to be made. 

I could go to a 2 speaker front since this is my living room. Two large vintage bookshelf speakers on a tilted stand would look good. Though I do have angled in ceiling speakers now for the TV setup. I could always do the same thing with the projection setup and drop the cables to an outlet near the end table where the equipment is. It'd definitely look clean. 

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk


----------



## aronsonstack

dbpaddler said:


> Regardless, it's normally $200 more.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk


I understand, at around $600-$650 for a 100" ALR screen is a nice price, but it's for standard projectors, not UST. You can't get the ones for UST at that price. But it would be possible if you buy from manufacturers directly from alibaba.


----------



## Distillz

I'm still waiting for the day someone with experience in color calibrating, does so with this projector. I've tweaked brightness, contrast, saturation, but haven't actually touched the settings with offsets to RGB, and other colors. Perhaps after sometime, someone will be able to properly tweak those settings, the magenta/pink that reflects off the walls can be corrected.


----------



## drinkingsilk

I just got this through amazon and set it up in my basement projecting to a wall. A screen is on the way. My first impressions are very positive even with just the wall. It's my first projector and replaces a 2008 1080p samsung dlp tv which hadn't been getting much use lately since Ive been mainly using a 65E6 oled in the family room instead.
I watched a some Tenet UHD blu ray and then hooked up my gaming pc to it with 4k output. After turning off the motion and noise processing I did not feel noticeable input lag (I only play single player games though). 

I have a nice collection of 3d blu rays, so i hope they add 3d support to it. I dont care about built in apps. I emailed them through amazon asking about 3d support and they replied that they are working on a firmware for it but dont have a date yet. I hope that's true. If you're also interested in 3d support for this be sure to let them know.


----------



## dbpaddler

aronsonstack said:


> I understand, at around $600-$650 for a 100" ALR screen is a nice price, but it's for standard projectors, not UST. You can't get the ones for UST at that price. But it would be possible if you buy from manufacturers directly from alibaba.


Good luck with alibaba. I can find my screen for $300 before shipping. Means squat because shipping takes it right to the price on Amazon. Most shipping charges I've seen on there for a single screen is about $300+.

And the funny thing, the videos they show on the regular ALR tab tension screens all show them with UST's. Go figure. Not saying it's the same material, but it's funny to see them talk about the black diamond fabric for the UST version and the regular ALR version. 

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk


----------



## aronsonstack

drinkingsilk said:


> I just got this through amazon and set it up in my basement projecting to a wall. A screen is on the way. My first impressions are very positive even with just the wall. It's my first projector and replaces a 2008 1080p samsung dlp tv which hadn't been getting much use lately since Ive been mainly using a 65E6 oled in the family room instead.
> I watched a some Tenet UHD blu ray and then hooked up my gaming pc to it with 4k output. After turning off the motion and noise processing I did not feel noticeable input lag (I only play single player games though).
> 
> I have a nice collection of 3d blu rays, so i hope they add 3d support to it. I dont care about built in apps. I emailed them through amazon asking about 3d support and they replied that they are working on a firmware for it but dont have a date yet. I hope that's true. If you're also interested in 3d support for this be sure to let them know.


Projectorcentral need to get on the ball on this!


----------



## lilbuddha

is anyone able to confirm that the bomaker has a the standard free return policy through amazon? I'm a prime member. really thinking of ordering one and comparing with my vava!


----------



## aronsonstack

lilbuddha said:


> is anyone able to confirm that the bomaker has a the standard free return policy through amazon? I'm a prime member. really thinking of ordering one and comparing with my vava!


As long as it's shipped from Amazon.


----------



## tmpayne91

Can someone tell me what the heck these are that came in the accessories bag? One side is adhesive tape.


----------



## Low_Rez

This is my guess. The red covers adhesive on double sided tape. Once you have the PJ EXACTLY as you want it, these could be used to lock a leg in place to help prevent accidental movement. Or put them halfway around two legs.


----------



## monakh

I was wondering what the heck those weird half moon plastic things were! That sounds like a plausible reason. We can ask Bomaker on the IG page to confirm.

So...I received my PJ today, I was excited beyond measure. I plugged it in and used it in the same location as my Xiaomi Black Batman unit, nope, the placement is different. 

I am not at all thrilled with the out-of-box experience. It seems like quite a bit of tweaking is required before I feel it will be watchable. I am no videophile, but honestly, I got a headache just looking at the super-bright pic. The SO complained of pressure on the eyes (she may or may not be susceptible to rainbows, I guess we will find out). I am kinda bummed. The picture is washed out, at best. We really need to get some recommended settings in place for this unit. The default color temp was set to cold and the reds are way outta whack.

And to top it all off, I got the whole keystone crap going on. This is with the unit sitting flat on a table where the Xiaomi used to be. No issues before. Oh, and this unit is huge, my guess is that it's twice as large as my old UST (in terms of volume). The upside of this is that I couldn't hear anything, no coil whine, no fan. 

Any recommended settings will be welcome but my gut feeling is that I won't be keeping this. It's just not giving me that warm fuzzy feeling. That's what you get for being a backer on IG. Let us be the guinea pigs cuz we are suckers!


----------



## lilbuddha

seems like the coupon on amazon is gone! should not have waited but really wanted to hear your impressions first. Hopefully they redo the sale again


----------



## ACE844

In regards to settings, an IG backer/ reviewer on Amazon posted some in their comments.


----------



## monakh

I have had at least ten projectors over the past fifteen years. I don't think I have ever been disappointed with any of them. They were all more than incremental upgrades so it always felt like things were getting better. It's the first time I feel like I have taken a step back. Tri-laser, my a$$!


----------



## Low_Rez

Just got my screen mounted last night. This pic is a 4K stream from You Tube. No tweaks to settings or size, just moving the projector. I think it looks pretty damn good so far.


----------



## monakh

I suspect anyone who's a first-time projector owner will be blown away by the big-screen picture and overall brightness. Would love to hear from everyone though.


----------



## Low_Rez

monakh said:


> I suspect anyone who's a first-time projector owner will be blown away by the big-screen picture and overall brightness. Would love to hear from everyone though.


First time projector owner is presumptuous, condescending and inaccurate.


----------



## monakh

That comment was not directed at you, it was a general remark and I was thinking out loud. That wasn't my intent, you are welcome to think what you like, I am not going to explain myself further.


----------



## sirlinux

drinkingsilk said:


> I just got this through amazon and set it up in my basement projecting to a wall. A screen is on the way. My first impressions are very positive even with just the wall. It's my first projector and replaces a 2008 1080p samsung dlp tv which hadn't been getting much use lately since Ive been mainly using a 65E6 oled in the family room instead.
> I watched a some Tenet UHD blu ray and then hooked up my gaming pc to it with 4k output. After turning off the motion and noise processing I did not feel noticeable input lag (I only play single player games though).
> 
> I have a nice collection of 3d blu rays, so i hope they add 3d support to it. I dont care about built in apps. I emailed them through amazon asking about 3d support and they replied that they are working on a firmware for it but dont have a date yet. I hope that's true. If you're also interested in 3d support for this be sure to let them know.





monakh said:


> I was wondering what the heck those weird half moon plastic things were! That sounds like a plausible reason. We can ask Bomaker on the IG page to confirm.
> 
> So...I received my PJ today, I was excited beyond measure. I plugged it in and used it in the same location as my Xiaomi Black Batman unit, nope, the placement is different.
> 
> I am not at all thrilled with the out-of-box experience. It seems like quite a bit of tweaking is required before I feel it will be watchable. I am no videophile, but honestly, I got a headache just looking at the super-bright pic. The SO complained of pressure on the eyes (she may or may not be susceptible to rainbows, I guess we will find out). I am kinda bummed. The picture is washed out, at best. We really need to get some recommended settings in place for this unit. The default color temp was set to cold and the reds are way outta whack.
> 
> And to top it all off, I got the whole keystone crap going on. This is with the unit sitting flat on a table where the Xiaomi used to be. No issues before. Oh, and this unit is huge, my guess is that it's twice as large as my old UST (in terms of volume). The upside of this is that I couldn't hear anything, no coil whine, no fan.
> 
> Any recommended settings will be welcome but my gut feeling is that I won't be keeping this. It's just not giving me that warm fuzzy feeling. That's what you get for being a backer on IG. Let us be the guinea pigs cuz we are suckers!


I received mine yesterday and set it up in the basement projecting against a flat-white wall. The wall is definitely not flat! The display brings out the imperfections quite starkly. Image is not quite 120" where it is placed and ambient light is not an issue. Out of the box I found the colors to be quite good and I have not adjusted any of them. About the only thing I played with were comparing the different settings -- Movie, Sports, etc..
I was using the included Roku stick to provide content. I felt some YouTube videos to be amazing. So my experience is quite different from yours. With regard to getting the keystone correct was not difficult for me to position the device and legs. The remote frankly sucks and the volume output is low. It seems I have to crank it up to get a good level from my amplifier for some reason. I haven't gone through all the options though to see if that is the cause. So I think overall it is pretty good but this is my first projector so nothing to compare to. I have a screen coming so I expect the picture to be even better when I get that in place.


----------



## Distillz

For those with soundbars, or home theater systems. Did you also have to crank up the projectors volume to 100 and leave it there while controlling soundbars volume separately? In the past I didn't need to scale projector volume to max. I would leave it at 0 and just control volume from my soundbars. In the Bomaker's case if I leave projector volume at 0 then there is no sound even if soundbars volume is at 100. I only ask this in case I have my settings wrong.


----------



## Meihk

monakh said:


> I have had at least ten projectors over the past fifteen years. I don't think I have ever been disappointed with any of them. They were all more than incremental upgrades so it always felt like things were getting better. It's the first time I feel like I have taken a step back. Tri-laser, my a$$!


This is disheartening. I am a first time projector buyer and I was hoping against hope that this would be a cheaper equivalent projector to the Samsung tri-laser projector. I got it through indiegogo and do not think there are refunds; just 12 months for repair. I don't have a CLR screen yet and will put that up when I get it but have been cautiously optomistic about the image quality, despite the CA around white letters, reddish color inaccuracies and blurry text. I'm using this with a desktop PC. Hearing someone that is more experienced than me that has owned other projectors in the past gives me some insight into this product compared to others and a hefty amount of buyers remorse.


----------



## aronsonstack

monakh said:


> That comment was not directed at you, it was a general remark and I was thinking out loud. That wasn't my intent, you are welcome to think what you like, I am not going to explain myself further.


Getting mine today. I currently have the Vava set up perfectly. So if I don't like this Bomaker, I might lay it on thick for wasting my time and having to set up my Vava again. LOL!


----------



## monakh

Meihk said:


> This is disheartening. I am a first time projector buyer and I was hoping against hope that this would be a cheaper equivalent projector to the Samsung tri-laser projector. I got it through indiegogo and do not think there are refunds; just 12 months for repair. I don't have a CLR screen yet and will put that up when I get it but have been cautiously optomistic about the image quality, despite the CA around white letters, reddish color inaccuracies and blurry text. I'm using this with a desktop PC. Hearing someone that is more experienced than me that has owned other projectors in the past gives me some insight into this product compared to others and a hefty amount of buyers remorse.


Hey look, by all accounts, my experience seems to be atypical. Most buyers seem to be perfectly happy with their units, so please don't use what I have said as a baseline. Perhaps I am being a bit harsh with my judgment and with some adjustments (including physical adjustments that fix the keystone), I will be happier. That's not the point, though. I just expected to be blown away, wowed, but that's not been the case. Most importantly, the WAF isn't there. It wasn't there with the Xiaomi either, but at least the physical unit was smaller. I moved around furniture and went from long-throw to UST. She hasn't been too happy with that since the PJ came from being virtually invisible to being in the middle of the seating arrangements. I used the damaging laser as an excuse since I have a toddler! 

Anyway, I think if one has the opportunity, the projector should be given a trial run. Unfortunately, I am in the Middle East, so I kinda took a huge leap of faith, stuck with it now so I have to make the best of it


----------



## monakh

A user over at one of the FB groups posted this comparison pic between the VAVA (left) and the Bomaker (right). It shows colors completely out of whack (out of the box). I am certain calibration should fix it but I am in no mood to spend a few hours doing it. Hoping for some settings to stick. There's also an issue with settings being lost in the user mode after a reboot. An OTA update should address that. Since the VAVA is basically a glorified Xiaomi with slightly better internals, that's exactly been my experience.


----------



## aronsonstack

monakh said:


> View attachment 3081558
> 
> 
> A user over at one of the FB groups posted this comparison pic between the VAVA (left) and the Bomaker (right). It shows colors completely out of whack (out of the box). I am certain calibration should fix it but I am in no mood to spend a few hours doing it. Hoping for some settings to stick. There's also an issue with settings being lost in the user mode after a reboot. An OTA update should address that. Since the VAVA is basically a glorified Xiaomi with slightly better internals, that's exactly been my experience.


But is that what they see in real life? I just busted out the Bomaker, and I can understand now that the camera makes the colors way more off than in reality. Unfortunately, mind came with a defect. On top of these color issues, I get one with a defect. I got this rainbow swirl smudge, but it's not the screen. It moves when I move the projector. I think I won't bother. Just gonna stick to my Vava.


----------



## kaptaink45

Maybe there is something dirt or something on the inside of the lens that is causing that rainbow smudge? I ordered the Bomaker a few days ago because of the great deal on Amazon, but hearing about these various issues is making me a bit worried. Would be cool if people that have both the VAVA and the Bomaker could post some comparison pics. Maybe by the time I get the polaris next week someone will have some good calibration settings for it.


----------



## aronsonstack

Out the box for both. Standard default settings. I will say, it's not as bad in real life. Smartphones are really amplifying the magenta of the Bomaker.


----------



## aronsonstack

Live Free or Die Hard


----------



## aronsonstack

I'll take some comparison pictures tomorrow during daylight to see how they do against each other. I use a ALR screen by XY Screen.


----------



## kaptaink45

Thanks for posting the pictures aronsonstack! Do any of the other preset picture settings get the colors any better?


----------



## bradk14

aronsonstack said:


> But is that what they see in real life? I just busted out the Bomaker, and I can understand now that the camera makes the colors way more off than in reality. Unfortunately, mind came with a defect. On top of these color issues, I get one with a defect. I got this rainbow swirl smudge, but it's not the screen. It moves when I move the projector. I think I won't bother. Just gonna stick to my Vava.
> 
> View attachment 3081601
> 
> 
> View attachment 3081600


no, the poster in question even agreed with me that the image posted was not representative of the image in person. It’s been stated and verified several times throughout this thread.


----------



## bradk14

Distillz said:


> For those with soundbars, or home theater systems. Did you also have to crank up the projectors volume to 100 and leave it there while controlling soundbars volume separately? In the past I didn't need to scale projector volume to max. I would leave it at 0 and just control volume from my soundbars. In the Bomaker's case if I leave projector volume at 0 then there is no sound even if soundbars volume is at 100. I only ask this in case I have my settings wrong.


I’m not sure what kind of setup you have. Is your soundbar in hdmi1/arc? The projector volume should have zero impact on your soundbar output. I generally control the volume either with my appletv but when I do use the Polaris remote, it shows the projector volume on the screen as well as the receiver volume, but it seems to be more of an aesthetic issue. The projector currently shows a volume of 0 where my receiver is somewhere in the middle.


----------



## RedHotFuzz

aronsonstack said:


> Out the box for both. Standard default settings. I will say, it's not as bad in real life. Smartphones are really amplifying the magenta of the Bomaker.
> View attachment 3081644
> 
> 
> View attachment 3081645


Bomaker looks terrible in this comparison.


----------



## monakh

It's true that the magenta/blue/red looks a lot worse in camera pics but it's not that off, at least not to my eyes. 

However, I was able to do a quick calibration to make it more than acceptable. With time, this can put out a hell of a pic given this PJ's internals.

I have, however, decided to go back to my Xiaomi. The WAF just wasn't there, she thought it looked big and ugly so out it goes


----------



## sirlinux

bradk14 said:


> no, the poster in question even agreed with me that the image posted was not representative of the image in person. It’s been stated and verified several times throughout this thread.


I'll add to that observation. Image/color looks good realtime but a photo adds a magenta/pinkish hue. I did not want to post pictures of mine just for that reason. Can't wait to watch the Chiefs game this weekend on it.


----------



## IanLaurie

Okay so mine arrived yesterday, along with my elite screens clr alr for ultra short throw. So far I have found a few interesting quirks. 

1. the home screen does not appear to respond to any changes i make to the image settings. Which is really odd. But then they suddenly responded when i hooked up the Apple TV. But home screen still looks... kinda gross. However, once i hooked up the PS5 and did a correction on it for hdr.... my gosh it was gorgeous. I threw in planet earth 2 4K bluray and was overall just astounded at the image. As it was 1 am, i watched it in silence... for an hour. It was spectacular. I still need to do some tweaking to get the colours just right, but i can see it getting there quite easily... if i the menu responds properly.

2. This is not my first projector, nor is it my first time doing image calibration. But this thing has some seriously in depth calibration options, including magenta reduction (seems to be the largest complaint). If you dont know what you are doing, find some one who does. Also the “cool” or “cold” lighting seems to be quite, well gross in colour temp. Changed it to “hot” and suddenly skin tones and colours in general appeared much more friendly.

3. Once i get this thing dialled right in, I will share my full settings. For now, change your colour temp to hot ( this apparently needs to be done for HDR, Standard settings for each source) and this will at least give you the start of a pleasing image. 

This projector has the capability of being astoundingly great. But its gonna take you time to get it there. It will be frustrating (took me forever to figure out why none of my changes were doing anything). But based on what i was watching last night, the colour and image reproduction can be outstanding.


----------



## IanLaurie

Oh and for some reason after the first 2 start ups, the little start up sequence ended up going black and white, which was very concerning at first, but seems to be just a glitch. Works just fine as soon as the home screen comes up


----------



## Tlamfitstoronto

IanLaurie said:


> Okay so mine arrived yesterday, along with my elite screens clr alr for ultra short throw. So far I have found a few interesting quirks.
> 
> 1. the home screen does not appear to respond to any changes i make to the image settings. Which is really odd. But then they suddenly responded when i hooked up the Apple TV. But home screen still looks... kinda gross. However, once i hooked up the PS5 and did a correction on it for hdr.... my gosh it was gorgeous. I threw in planet earth 2 4K bluray and was overall just astounded at the image. As it was 1 am, i watched it in silence... for an hour. It was spectacular. I still need to do some tweaking to get the colours just right, but i can see it getting there quite easily... if i the menu responds properly.
> 
> 2. This is not my first projector, nor is it my first time doing image calibration. But this thing has some seriously in depth calibration options, including magenta reduction (seems to be the largest complaint). If you dont know what you are doing, find some one who does. Also the “cool” or “cold” lighting seems to be quite, well gross in colour temp. Changed it to “hot” and suddenly skin tones and colours in general appeared much more friendly.
> 
> 3. Once i get this thing dialled right in, I will share my full settings. For now, change your colour temp to hot ( this apparently needs to be done for HDR, Standard settings for each source) and this will at least give you the start of a pleasing image.
> 
> This projector has the capability of being astoundingly great. But its gonna take you time to get it there. It will be frustrating (took me forever to figure out why none of my changes were doing anything). But based on what i was watching last night, the colour and image reproduction can be outstanding.


Excited to see the settings!!! Thanks in advance. Mine should be coming soon. In Canada, and finally have a tracking number.


----------



## aronsonstack

IanLaurie said:


> Oh and for some reason after the first 2 start ups, the little start up sequence ended up going black and white, which was very concerning at first, but seems to be just a glitch. Works just fine as soon as the home screen comes up


Yeah, I'd love to get your calibrations when you're done. Personally, everything is pointing towards returning the Bomaker and keeping my Vava. But the cliche, "I really wanted to like it" is very true. LOL! Because in reality, I can see that it has a lot of pop, and perhaps the right calibrations would make this great. No keystone, although I know they say this is down the pipe, no electric focus, and my AV system is not working. I select the OPTICAL option in the audio source, but I get nothing. On top of that, mine came with a defect in the image, that didn't go away firmware upgrade.

Anybody using an AV system, and got it to work? If yes, please share what you did. These are all quirks I would work through if it was my first projector, but I already have one that simply works as it should.

Keeping the Vava, I would simply return the Bomaker. But If I keep Bomaker, I would have to return the Vava, and ask for a Bomaker replacement because of that defect. I wonder if Amazon would be annoyed by all that, although I am their #1 customer. LOL!


----------



## aronsonstack

kaptaink45 said:


> Thanks for posting the pictures aronsonstack! Do any of the other preset picture settings get the colors any better?


I didn't see much improvement. Everything pushes towards the red/magenta side, which as you can see, is amplified in photos. In reality it's not as bad, but you can still see it's pushes towards those colors. I think you would need to dig deep in the user custom settings, but so far everything I've played with doesn't help. But then again, I'm not a videophile and don't know what I'm doing. That's why when someone says they want to post their calibrations, I will gladly use it!


----------



## Meihk

aronsonstack said:


> Yeah, I'd love to get your calibrations when you're done. Personally, everything is pointing towards returning the Bomaker and keeping my Vava. But the cliche, "I really wanted to like it" is very true. LOL! Because in reality, I can see that it has a lot of pop, and perhaps the right calibrations would make this great. No keystone, although I know they say this is down the pipe, no electric focus, and my AV system is not working. I select the OPTICAL option in the audio source, but I get nothing. On top of that, mine came with a defect in the image, that didn't go away firmware upgrade.
> 
> Anybody using an AV system, and got it to work? If yes, please share what you did. These are all quirks I would work through if it was my first projector, but I already have one that simply works as it should.
> 
> Keeping the Vava, I would simply return the Bomaker. But If I keep Bomaker, I would have to return the Vava, and ask for a Bomaker replacement because of that defect. I wonder if Amazon would be annoyed by all that, although I am their #1 customer. LOL!


I think Amazon won't care how many times you return things. Jeff Bezos makes so much anyway he doesn't care.
I am using an AV receiver and speakers and all I did was connect with HDMI 1 (which has ARC I believe). I never had any issues with sound output and didn't need to change anything? I don't have experience with the optical output though.


----------



## IanLaurie

aronsonstack said:


> Anybody using an AV system, and got it to work? If yes, please share what you did. These are all quirks I would work through if it was my first projector, but I already have one that simply works as it should.


I am running mine through a full surround sound system and AV receiver. I am running through the receiver to the projector and having no issues, but i am getting audio through the ARC which I wouldn’t have known except that the “back off” warning comes through the AV when i get a little to close.


----------



## bradk14

Same as above. I started with a 5.1 soundbar setup and have since added a 5.2 receiver. In both cases, they’re plugged into the hdmi1/arc port on the Polaris. No issues.


----------



## IanLaurie

Okay. So here is where i wound up for regular dynamic range stuff... 
Mode:User
Brightness: 49
Contrast: 52
Saturation: 58 (this feels a bit over saturated for my liking, but is what the calibration is telling me should be right. I’ve found anywhere from 45-55 feels a bit less “in your face”
Sharpness: 50
Gamma: Standard
Colour Temp: Hot
White Balance: R gain 122
R offset 128
G Gain 116
G Offset 128
B gain 107
B offset 128
Colour Adjustment: Tweak to your liking, but i only lowered the red brightness to 75. I wouldn’t mess around too much in here unless you have a lot of patience.
This is also where you will find the ability to lower the magenta saturation and brightness, again, your on your own.


Any way that’s all I have for now. Ill repost what i get for HDR user settings. I have no idea how accurate this will be from one projector to the next, especially if you are using a white or no ust screen. But if it helps anyone at all, all the better


----------



## IanLaurie

Also, sorry for the lack of pictures, but after years in film and video production, i am all too aware of the different colour casts sensors can have and how they can distort what people believe they are seeing. If it looks good, trust your eyes over anything i have said.


----------



## phchrono

Hello,
I received Yesterday my Polaris. It replaces a Xiaomi 4K 
Compare to Xiaomi, my first impression

it does not heat up.
It makes less noise
brighter colors and luminosity


the sound is worse by far
very low optical output volume
the presence detector is a little too sensitive, especially when the person speaks every time ... we should be able to deactivate it

Advice for the following settings:
- Image => Display mode = I choose *Game*, because it is closest to what I had on the Xiaomi in terms of color but the red is too pronounced. If I want to reduce it, I switch to the *sport* profile but there the blue turns turquoise
=> Gamma = *Standard*
=> Color temp = *Standard*
=> DLC = *Activate*, there is a gain in contrast and deeper black
=> Noise reduction = *Medium*
=> MPEG = *Low*, What does it correspond to?
=> Pure Motion = *Low*, because it is too aggressive after (camera mode)
For Image HDR = *HDR Cinema*, I prefer the colors in SDR but I did not find a mode which approaches it? For example green is fluo in HDR ...
=> Color temp = *Hot*
=> DLC = *Activate *but it is less pronounced than in SDR
=> Noise reduction = *Medium*
=> MPEG = *Low*
=> Pure Motion = *Low*
=> HDR = *High*
- Light source => Light mode = *Standard*, I think it impacts the life of the laser and also the noise of the ventilation. By default it is on *Bright *and it's too violent for my eyes lol
=> Auto brightness = *deactivate*
=> Actuator control = *Activate*, what is it?
- Audio => I'm too disappointed I tried all modes, it lacks bass...

Edit:
I have not yet found the right settings in HDR, I prefer the image on the Xiaomi for the moment but it has a good potential this Polaris.


https://zupimages.net/up/21/03/hx2q.jpg


----------



## spencerwaltz

New member here. I just delivery of this Unit and have ordered a Vividstorm S Pro screen which will likely be here next week. We currently have a Samsung Q9fn (75 inches) but looking forward to getting back into having a projector, has anyone had any issues with the Roku? I have never used one and was probably going to but a new Apple TV 4K as I am more familiar with that. Thanks for these settings, excited to try them out!


----------



## geertm2

phchrono said:


> Hello,
> I received Yesterday my Polaris. It replaces a Xiaomi 4K
> Compare to Xiaomi, my first impression
> 
> it does not heat up.
> It makes less noise
> brighter colors and luminosity
> 
> 
> the sound is worse by far
> very low optical output volume
> the presence detector is a little too sensitive, especially when the person speaks every time ... we should be able to deactivate it





You can disable the presence detector.
"Light source" menu. Turn off "Eye care".

Another thing you probably want to turn off is the loud startup sound.
"General" menu. Turn off "Power on sound".


----------



## phchrono

It's done for Power on sound. Fortunately we can deactivate it because it would be unlivable 
For Turn off *Eye care *. I must leave him for the safety of the children if he is looking at the laser. He could have muted the sound


----------



## pqx12403

I received the projector a couple of days ago.

When I connect my laptop via HDMI and stream some content from YouTube or Amazon Prime video, the audio is out of sync.

I tried using the HDMI cable that came with the projector, and another one I had laying around, but both produced the same out of sync audio issue.

Any ideas on how to fix this problem? Thanks!


----------



## Imyrkos2

I recently received my projector and I am having what seems to be a strange issue. I see other forum members talk about SDR and HDR settings or using HDR Cinema but I can't seem to find anyway to find or change any settings for HDR. The only thing I can find that even mentions HDR is when I look in "Image Settings" and at the very bottom it shows HDR = High, but that setting is grayed out and can't be selected or changed. Am I just missing something?


----------



## phchrono

Imyrkos2 said:


> I recently received my projector and I am having what seems to be a strange issue. I see other forum members talk about SDR and HDR settings or using HDR Cinema but I can't seem to find anyway to find or change any settings for HDR. The only thing I can find that even mentions HDR is when I look in "Image Settings" and at the very bottom it shows HDR = High, but that setting is grayed out and can't be selected or changed. Am I just missing something?


it is necessary to ensure to diffuse a source hdr. then to have activated the hdmi 2.0 in hdmi version. and there you will have the natural hdr option which will appear. and the hdr option at the very bottom will be modifiable.


----------



## phchrono

I have a travelling problem. I have to activate the MEMC in low even if it has a little camcorder effect ... do you have a solution?

edit: finally I activated the auto framerate on kodi and everything is good. I didn't need it on my old VP


----------



## Imyrkos2

phchrono said:


> it is necessary to ensure to diffuse a source hdr. then to have activated the hdmi 2.0 in hdmi version. and there you will have the natural hdr option which will appear. and the hdr option at the very bottom will be modifiable.


Thank you for the response. I was attempting to watch an HDR video on YouTube using my Nvidia Shield. After doing a little research it turns out HDR doesn't work on the Shield's YouTube app because it doesn't support the VP9.2 codec that YouTube uses. Once I used Netflix the options showed up. Thanks again.


----------



## phchrono

Finally, here are my settings waiting for better :

For Image SDR => Display mode = Sport
=> Gamma = Brightness
=> Color temp = Standard
=> DLC = Deactivate
=> Noise reduction = Off
=> MPEG = Off
=> Pure Motion = Off










For Image HDR = HDR Cinema
=> Gamma = Brightness
=> Color temp = Hot
=> DLC = Deactivate 
=> Noise reduction = Off
=> MPEG = Off
=> Pure Motion = Off
=> HDR = Medium










- Light source => Light mode = Standard
=> Auto brightness = Deactivate
=> Actuator control = Activate

- Audio => Theater, the speakers are really of poor quality I think. I will have to buy new speakers
=> DTS => Activate


----------



## IanLaurie

For those looking my updated settings are on page 30 at the very bottom. Big improvement in colour and picture for sdr and hdr.


----------



## phchrono

Thank for your setup. I will test it tonight 

You haven't activated any image enhancement options? 
=> Gamma = ?
=> DLC = ?
=> Noise reduction = ?
=> MPEG = ?
=> Pure Motion = ?
=> HDR = Low, Medium, High ?

Your Light source => Light mode = Standard ?
=> Auto brightness = ?
=> Actuator control = ?

Thank you


----------



## dbpaddler

Just a stupid side note annoyance. Who does a 5v 1a usb at this point? The side one is just half that. They're useless for some 4k streaming sticks, at least android tv ones that want 2 amps. If you're trying to be minimal in cords and clutter and such, they kinda screwed the pooch.

And longer throw ALR screens, at least the VividStorm, isn't even usable in any way shape or form. Image is dim as can be, and the top of the image is all wavy. Surprised me. I was just expecting it not to tackle containing all the light. And for comparison, you can see the same seen from my Epson Pro g7500u. Night and day. I will say, that screen makes the Epson shine. Not even my best pic of it, but also attached is a pic from last night with GOTG.

Makes me think of just getting a basic gray tab tension screen for now since the Epson isn't going anywhere. Can return the VividStorm as it represents as having masking when there is none. It's essentially a big 4:3 screen. And the sides of the screen have a slight curl meaning you need to shrink your image size to where the sides are flat. Almost a shame. Because the ALR material on its own is phenomenal.

Will be so much fun to pack up and ship a 100" screen.























Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk


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## IanLaurie

phchrono said:


> Thank for your setup. I will test it tonight
> 
> You haven't activated any image enhancement options?
> => Gamma = ?
> => DLC = ?
> => Noise reduction = ?
> => MPEG = ?
> => Pure Motion = ?
> => HDR = Low, Medium, High ?
> 
> Your Light source => Light mode = Standard ?
> => Auto brightness = ?
> => Actuator control = ?
> 
> Thank you


I haven’t messed with light source settings yet, as for the rest 
Gamma normal
DLC off
Noise reduction off (this is just me I dislike unnecessary post processing)
MPEG off or low (same as above)
Pure motion off ( just preference, choose what you prefer)
Hdr high


----------



## aronsonstack

dbpaddler said:


> Just a stupid side note annoyance. Who does a 5v 1a usb at this point? The side one is just half that. They're useless for some 4k streaming sticks, at least android tv ones that want 2 amps. If you're trying to be minimal in cords and clutter and such, they kinda screwed the pooch.
> 
> And longer throw ALR screens, at least the VividStorm, isn't even usable in any way shape or form. Image is dim as can be, and the top of the image is all wavy. Surprised me. I was just expecting it not to tackle containing all the light. And for comparison, you can see the same seen from my Epson Pro g7500u. Night and day. I will say, that screen makes the Epson shine. Not even my best pic of it, but also attached is a pic from last night with GOTG.
> 
> Makes me think of just getting a basic gray tab tension screen for now since the Epson isn't going anywhere. Can return the VividStorm as it represents as having masking when there is none. It's essentially a big 4:3 screen. And the sides of the screen have a slight curl meaning you need to shrink your image size to where the sides are flat. Almost a shame. Because the ALR material on its own is phenomenal.
> 
> Will be so much fun to pack up and ship a 100" screen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk


A few pages back, I was surprised why you would buy a standard alr for your ust projector. I don't know if the standard alr screens are made with sawtooth material, if it is, they must be constructed at a different angle than the ones made for UST projectors. You should check this one out... this is the best price 100 screen for UST ALR on Amazon, and it's by Vava.


----------



## lilbuddha

I almost made the same mistake since the terms are used interchangeably but there is a difference between CLR and ALR and you have to look closely at the description to see if its ultra short throw compatible or not. I had looked at the Vava ust screen, it is definitely the best value I've seen.

Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences so far - I've been reading closely. So it seems like overall vs the Vava some of the major differences are: 1) box settings are horrible but the potential is there for it to have better PQ than the vava 2) no electronic focus/keystone, 3) the speakers are bad - the vava speakers I've found to be quite impressive although I don't them, 4) its quieter and seems to run cooler, 5) shorter warranty. Its on sale again for 10 dollars more than the last sale price so may bite the bullet this time!


----------



## IanLaurie

So after watching a bit, I’ve changed the colour temp from hot to normal. It was just too warm in desert like scenes. After that I’m pretty happy with my settings. I’ll probably be constantly be fine tuning to my tastes but think


----------



## dbpaddler

aronsonstack said:


> A few pages back, I was surprised why you would buy a standard alr for your ust projector. I don't know if the standard alr screens are made with sawtooth material, if it is, they must be constructed at a different angle than the ones made for UST projectors. You should check this one out... this is the best price 100 screen for UST ALR on Amazon, and it's by Vava.


1. That would be a fixed a screen. This is my living room. I bought a tab tensioned for a reason..windows, sunlight, normal living room. Or you didn't read that part or me mention long recessing it into the ceiling.

2. I also have the Epson which actually looks gorgeous on that screen since I'm not sold on keeping the bomaker. So a nice tab tensioned screen with ALR is a good deal at $450 if I'm sticking with the Epson or eventually another traditional projector.

I already have a TV, if it's visible at all just to the right of the screen. But it's limited to a 60" max. During Covid I set up my LG led work pj and mounted a pull down over the front windows. It was for working out, but the LG left me wanting. Picked up the g7500u for $650 (which was beyond a steal) and then I ended up watching the projector more than the TV to the point I ventured up to the theater room a little less. Figured since I'm renovating, let me see if I can make the projector setup something permanent. So the option is to run the wiring and leave the pipe mount where it is with a plastic cap for when I'm not using the projector. Or do a UST below the windows and run the wiring to the wall there. Maybe do a Fold down mount for it and just do stereo w/no center channel.

So this buy was more of a hedge at the moment since it would improve the image of the Epson. Thought it would be OK for the ust. Didn't think it would be that bad. But the screen in general in design is a bit underwhelming with the curled edges, no masking whatsoever. But in general, their material makes for a gorgeous image on a normal projector. So just a shame it's designed like it is.

Trying to incorporate a projector into the room will be interesting. My joists run the right way to recess a powered screen. So it's just figuring out what the best projector setup would be. The g7500u is too beastly. My 14x12 living room doesn't really qualify as a large venue. Though a smaller pj with similar offsets capability could work as it could be mounted closer to the wall and be less obtrusive. 

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk


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## homemac

Does anyone know how to add the bluetooth remote to harmony hub ?


----------



## dbpaddler

homemac said:


> Does anyone know how to add the bluetooth remote to harmony hub ?


Would think you'd have to contact Logitech and have them add it. A no name company with a crowd funded projector. Not really something that's on their radar to add to the database. Took them a relatively short time to add the tivo stream 4k and chromecast w/GTV to the database. Both Bluetooth remotes as well. 

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk


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## Casey_Bryson

homemac said:


> Does anyone know how to add the bluetooth remote to harmony hub ?


Is Bomaker Polaris Android based? It might be worth a shot to try and map it as an Nvidia Shield. It works with other Android based UST's. If not that than try other Hisense Tv's.


----------



## hifiand3dfan

The advertised feature is to support projection screen size up to 200". I was aiming at 180" but blurriness in the upper 20% of the screen, left and right corner more pronounced of course, is horrible.
Do I have a lens that may be off a bit or are you all seeing the same? (I am aware that this is not uncommon for UST projectors, but I have no comparison.... for me it seems beyond tolerable).
I am considering returning.

Also: On a contrast where a horizontal white area/line hits a black background - there is a small red or almost rainbowy border below the white at that size. Noticeable in black white transitions. Laser/chip not well aligned? Or do all devices have that?

For those who care - for a 180" projection screen size , if you put the projector on the floor, the image will start approximately 2 feet above the floor (or above whatever surface you put it on).
That also means - at that size - for ceiling installations the image would start 2 feet below the ceiling which is for most applications NOT what you want.
Not unexpected, but the projector is VERY sensitive being UST for smallest uneven parts of the surface you project on. I learned that one of our walls is not as straight as I thought it was


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## pqx12403

hifiand3dfan said:


> The advertised feature is to support projection screen size up to 200". I was aiming at 180" but blurriness in the upper 20% of the screen, left and right corner more pronounced of course, is horrible.
> Do I have a lens that may be off a bit or are you all seeing the same? (I am aware that this is not uncommon for UST projectors, but I have no comparison.... for me it seems beyond tolerable).
> I am considering returning.
> 
> Also: On a contrast where a horizontal white area/line hits a black background - there is a small red or almost rainbowy border below the white at that size. Noticeable in black white transitions. Laser/chip not well aligned? Or do all devices have that?
> 
> For those who care - for a 180" projection screen size , if you put the projector on the floor, the image will start approximately 2 feet above the floor (or above whatever surface you put it on).
> That also means - at that size - for ceiling installations the image would start 2 feet below the ceiling which is for most applications NOT what you want.
> Not unexpected, but the projector is VERY sensitive being UST for smallest uneven parts of the surface you project on. I learned that one of our walls is not as straight as I thought it was


If you have time, could you upload some images of your 180" setup. I was thinking about going for 150", is it blurry at that size too?


----------



## KingBlasian

Want to pull the trigger for this projector, but my walls are out of whack in my house. I need 8 point keystone to get a square image on my xiaomi. Does this projector have decent keystone capabilities? At least 4 corners minimum


----------



## pastorteacher

been enjoying the Polaris more and more. After 35 days am definitely returning my Samsung LSP7T. Curious if anybody else has their light all the way up to 10? I really prefer it that way, HDR is better, and i've found the darkest scenes in tv and film to maintain better image quality with it.


----------



## USTMan

Just want to say i've been using the Polaris on my wall and just got my screen installed yesterday. It looks absolutely stunning and just as clear as my TCL 6 series. Trying to line up the screen with the projector was difficult and I found the best way to do it was to adjust the screen instead of adjusting the projector once it was level. The top edges do start to blur past 120, but I am only using 110in so it looks great.


----------



## bradk14

KingBlasian said:


> Want to pull the trigger for this projector, but my walls are out of whack in my house. I need 8 point keystone to get a square image on my xiaomi. Does this projector have decent keystone capabilities? At least 4 corners minimum


nothing at this time.


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## hifiand3dfan

pqx12403 said:


> If you have time, could you upload some images of your 180" setup. I was thinking about going for 150", is it blurry at that size too?


Currently I tested it mostly against walls. At that size, yes, 150" already had blurriness on the top. Two posts above my post, @USTMan reports that it starts to blur above 120".
Worst case I have to return it for the blurriness issues (something I cannot fix).

My motorized 180" screen is actually arriving tomorrow. The issue with that will also be that it is not be "compatible" in the sense of that the material is MaxWhite and that it is not tensioned. The tensioned options are beyond my budget expectation at that size. Cannot (or rather choose not) install a fixed screen there as I would be covering some windows permanently and plan to hang a TV flush to the wall for regular viewing.
I may not end up using the projector with that screen after all - will have to test and see how distorted the picture looks.


----------



## homemac

I cant seem to get the settings look right. If you look at the images , Pulp fiction looks okay , but Specter - something is terribly off, way too dark. I am struggling to figure out why.


----------



## phchrono

IanLaurie said:


> So after watching a bit, I’ve changed the colour temp from hot to normal. It was just too warm in desert like scenes. After that I’m pretty happy with my settings. I’ll probably be constantly be fine tuning to my tastes but think


Hi, I had already on my side set as standard. Thanks again for the HDR settings. Regarding your first SDR settings, were you able to go deeper into them? I tried to apply the HDR setting on the SDR but I prefer rendering in sport mode for now. Thanks to you


----------



## tmpayne91

Any word on the keystone update. It’s damn hard to align 😑


----------



## jimchao

tmpayne91 said:


> Any word on the keystone update. It’s damn hard to align 😑


Most of the pictures posted in this thread looked washout, purple tint and very bad contrast. Also the alignment/ focus is not acceptable compare to other UST or front PJ. I am starting doubt they claim this UST base on triple laser is true.


----------



## geertm2

jimchao said:


> Most of the pictures posted in this thread looked washout, purple tint and very bad contrast. Also the alignment/ focus is not acceptable compare to other UST or front PJ. I am starting double they claim this UST base on triple laser is true.


For some reason pictures look completely different from what you see on your screen at home. The real picture of the projector looks great! As with any TV or projector you have adjust settings to get the best picture. Defaults settings are never perfect for your personal situation.
Also focus of at least my projector is perfect. Even white text looks razor sharp. I have no complaints.


----------



## tmpayne91

geertm2 said:


> For some reason pictures look completely different from what you see on your screen at home. The real picture of the projector looks great! As with any TV or projector you have adjust settings to get the best picture. Defaults settings are never perfect for your personal situation.
> Also focus of at least my projector is perfect. Even white text looks razor sharp. I have no complaints.


I agree, the pictures look terrible. It looks much better in person


----------



## aronsonstack

tmpayne91 said:


> I agree, the pictures look terrible. It looks much better in person


It is better in real life, but the fact that smartphones are capturing speaks the truth to it's overall color bias. It's not obvious to those without another ust to compare to in person. I have the Vava and got the Bomaker hoping it'll be better, but so far, the Bomaker will be going back. My return date for vava is Jan 31, so I'm going to play with Bomaker until the 11th hour.


----------



## kaptaink45

I got my projector last night and my first impressions are mainly positive. I have been using the the Vava for the last year and half and the Bomaker has better color and is slightly brighter than the Vava. Another plus is the lack of fan noise and coil whine. I am pretty sensitive to coil whine and I hear none of it with the Bomaker. Even my 80+ year old parents could tell the picture on the Bomaker was brighter and sharper than the Vava. I do have one issue though, whenever I try to switch between inputs or if the Bomaker gets a different video signal, no video get displayed unless I restart the projector. So if I am on HDMI 1 and switch to HDMI 2, I get the little notification that the inputs have been switched but then the screen just goes black. Same thing happens when I switch HDMI inputs on my soundbar connected to the projector. Anybody else having problems like this? I am really happy with the Bomaker projector besides this input switching issue.


----------



## geertm2

kaptaink45 said:


> I got my projector last night and my first impressions are mainly positive. I have been using the the Vava for the last year and half and the Bomaker has better color and is slightly brighter than the Vava. Another plus is the lack of fan noise and coil whine. I am pretty sensitive to coil whine and I hear none of it with the Bomaker. Even my 80+ year old parents could tell the picture on the Bomaker was brighter and sharper than the Vava. I do have one issue though, whenever I try to switch between inputs or if the Bomaker gets a different video signal, no video get displayed unless I restart the projector. So if I am on HDMI 1 and switch to HDMI 2, I get the little notification that the inputs have been switched but then the screen just goes black. Same thing happens when I switch HDMI inputs on my soundbar connected to the projector. Anybody else having problems like this? I am really happy with the Bomaker projector besides this input switching issue.


I do not have this problem.
Check if both HDMI ports of the projector are set to HDMI 2.0.


----------



## hifiand3dfan

geertm2 said:


> Also focus of at least my projector is perfect. Even white text looks razor sharp. I have no complaints.


What's your screen size? And also in the upper left and upper right corner?
What is your screen material?


----------



## geertm2

hifiand3dfan said:


> What's your screen size? And also in the upper left and upper right corner?
> What is your screen material?


At the moment I am using a wall. Projecting an 110 inch picture.
My UST ALR 110 inch fixed screen should arrive the beginning of next week. Link to the screen:





Free Shipping 110" 4k T Prism Ultra Short Throw Projector Fixed Frame Alr Clr Screen Ambient Light Rejecting Projection Screen - Buy Pet Crystal Screen For Home Theater System,Alr Frame Tv Screen,4k Laser Tv Screen Product on Alibaba.com


Free Shipping 110" 4k T Prism Ultra Short Throw Projector Fixed Frame Alr Clr Screen Ambient Light Rejecting Projection Screen - Buy Pet Crystal Screen For Home Theater System,Alr Frame Tv Screen,4k Laser Tv Screen Product on Alibaba.com



www.alibaba.com




I will post a message here about my experience with this screen after everything is installed.


----------



## sirlinux

phchrono said:


> it is necessary to ensure to diffuse a source hdr. then to have activated the hdmi 2.0 in hdmi version. and there you will have the natural hdr option which will appear. and the hdr option at the very bottom will be modifiable.


Where in the menu can you change the hdmi setting? I can't seem to find it.


----------



## dbpaddler

aronsonstack said:


> It is better in real life, but the fact that smartphones are capturing speaks the truth to it's overall color bias. It's not obvious to those without another ust to compare to in person. I have the Vava and got the Bomaker hoping it'll be better, but so far, the Bomaker will be going back. My return date for vava is Jan 31, so I'm going to play with Bomaker until the 11th hour.


I'm actually thinking of returning it for no other reason than I think the LG HU810P would be a better fit in the living room. The Bomaker takes up significant floor space, and the LG would be ceiling mounted where the Epson is now and take up a fraction of the space. With it being white as well, it would be nicer as an always there device and not be like, why is that thing in your living room? The Epson is a monstrosity at the seam of the LR & Dr. Has no place being there. The Bomaker would be the same way unless I put it away when not in use. And being a ***** to square up would probably make using it a pain.

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk


----------



## Wojo66

jimchao said:


> Most of the pictures posted in this thread looked washout, purple tint and very bad contrast. Also the alignment/ focus is not acceptable compare to other UST or front PJ. I am starting doubt they claim this UST base on triple laser is true.


I've had mine now for two weeks and it is definitely a triple laser and the image quality is fantastic. I'm using 120-in ALR screen. You definitely have to tweak the color settings but image quality is very good and it $2,000 nothing can touch this.


----------



## tmpayne91

Wojo66 said:


> I've had mine now for two weeks and it is definitely a triple laser and the image quality is fantastic. I'm using 120-in ALR screen. You definitely have to tweak the color settings but image quality is very good and it $2,000 nothing can touch this.
> View attachment 3084266


wish I could align my screen that perfectly. Mine is a mess. Lmao


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Has anyone fed it rec 2020 content? There are lots of 4K HDR Blu-rays that are mastered for it instead of DCI-P3. I'm just curious how much of a difference it is, though it's probably something you have to see to believe not unlike the difference between the recent Lord of the Rings 4K HDR master and the last SDR versions--Night and day on different planets.


----------



## geertm2

sirlinux said:


> Where in the menu can you change the hdmi setting? I can't seem to find it.


Select the HDMI port. Then press the button in the lower right corner of the remote.


----------



## geertm2

Noticed this in the Amazon questions:
There is calibration, keystone pattern for you to adjust the image under menu-settings, while automatic keystone and focus we're still working with our team to update it in nearly future.
By GooBang Doo Tech US SELLER  on January 22, 2021


----------



## phchrono

Xiaomi 4K vs Polaris 4K (IanLaurie parameter with HDR in medium - Screen Fengmi Black Grid CLR)
Gemini 4K 60fps HDR









Now I search a good setting for SDR  
With Sport mode it's good, but the blue is not blue. it is blue green (turquoise)


----------



## ACE844

This article was posted in the LSP9T review thread. It has some interesting objective findings with regards to triple laser spectroscopy and calibration. I wonder if the same challenges may also be inherent here with the Bo maker and the coming release of the Hisense 100L9 Pro later this year. It also covers the "push to red" most users and reviewers are seeing with a variety of triple laser PJ's.









Samsung UST trilaser The Premiere LSP9T | Pag 1: Introduzione e caratteristiche


Anteprima con misure sul sistema d'illuminamento 'tri-laser' del nuovo videoproiettore Samsung LSP9T 'The Premiere', probabilmente il primo prodotto a superare i confini dello spazio colore REC BT.2020 ad arrivare sul mercato italiano, con tecnologia DLP, ottica a tiro ultra-corto e compatibile...



www.avmagazine.it


----------



## tmpayne91

geertm2 said:


> Noticed this in the Amazon questions:
> There is calibration, keystone pattern for you to adjust the image under menu-settings, while automatic keystone and focus we're still working with our team to update it in nearly future.
> By GooBang Doo Tech US SELLER  on January 22, 2021


I asked customer service about this and they didn’t know what I was talking about. I sent them a screenshot of that answer. I’ll see what they say.


----------



## bradk14

tmpayne91 said:


> I asked customer service about this and they didn’t know what I was talking about. I sent them a screenshot of that answer. I’ll see what they say.


I think it just refers to the test alignment pattern it can throw up for manual adjustment. tho I find it's just easier to have actual content.


----------



## tmpayne91

bradk14 said:


> I think it just refers to the test alignment pattern it can throw up for manual adjustment. tho I find it's just easier to have actual content.


I’ll have to pull my screen down this weekend and remount it. I think I’m like 1 inch or half an inch high and no amount of adjusting is going to fix it. Oh well.


----------



## Meihk

tmpayne91 said:


> I’ll have to pull my screen down this weekend and remount it. I think I’m like 1 inch or half an inch high and no amount of adjusting is going to fix it. Oh well.


Same here. So frustrating. I honestly would take keystone adjustment for the trade off of lower quality. I found some windows 10 software but it's like $400!!! I hope they eventually add native keystone to this projector.


----------



## tmpayne91

Meihk said:


> Same here. So frustrating. I honestly would take keystone adjustment for the trade off of lower quality. I found some windows 10 software but it's like $400!!! I hope they eventually add native keystone to this projector.


yep. I’m gonna try to do everything to avoid it and it doesn’t help that my wall is not flat apparently either😑

Also I just got an email about the keystone.

“Yes, we are planning to add the keystone correction setting, but because our 4K TV itself is designed with fixed focus, the introduction of the keystone correction setting still faces some technical difficulties. Once our technicians update the settings, we will promptly provide updated files on the product page. Hope you can give us more time to do better, your encouragement is our greatest motivation！”


----------



## hifiand3dfan

tmpayne91 said:


> yep. I’m gonna try to do everything to avoid it and it doesn’t help that my wall is not flat apparently either😑
> 
> Also I just got an email about the keystone.
> 
> “Yes, we are planning to add the keystone correction setting, but because our 4K TV itself is designed with fixed focus, the introduction of the keystone correction setting still faces some technical difficulties. Once our technicians update the settings, we will promptly provide updated files on the product page. Hope you can give us more time to do better, your encouragement is our greatest motivation！”


I am starting to chuckle about this... it is a HiSense off/brand/private label/market preview - or however you may call it and whatever the motivation is of HiSense working with Bomaker - but in the end I strongly doubt that BoMaker has actual firmware engineers that are capable of more than translating or maybe changing the UI of the menu a bit.
What we need to do is to identify the actual HiSense projector behind the guts and look at what HiSense is working on there.
Everything else is most likely a pipe-dream of us hoping for more than BoMaker can ever deliver. All their communications are very likely just to obfuscate that they are at the behest of HiSense.


----------



## bradk14

hifiand3dfan said:


> I am starting to chuckle about this... it is a HiSense off/brand/private label/market preview - or however you may call it and whatever the motivation is of HiSense working with Bomaker - but in the end I strongly doubt that BoMaker has actual firmware engineers that are capable of more than translating or maybe changing the UI of the menu a bit.
> What we need to do is to identify the actual HiSense projector behind the guts and look at what HiSense is working on there.
> Everything else is most likely a pipe-dream of us hoping for more than BoMaker can ever deliver. All their communications are very likely just to obfuscate that they are at the behest of HiSense.


the laser chip is HiSense. it's not a white label product. it's like how Dell, Hewlett-Packard, Asus, etc etc all have an Intel or AMD chip. Bomaker is responsible for the engineering of the device and the board and determining which chips are used. And I guarantee the firmware that's being used in these devices aren't being used in HiSense projectors. Now whether actual Bomaker employees code the firmware or if that's outsourced, that's another thing.


----------



## hifiand3dfan

geertm2 said:


> Noticed this in the Amazon questions:
> There is calibration, keystone pattern for you to adjust the image under menu-settings, while automatic keystone and focus we're still working with our team to update it in nearly future.
> By GooBang Doo Tech US SELLER  on January 22, 2021


So is GooBang Doo Tech identical to Bomaker since they seem to speak for Bomaker? If so, then the amount of different products they sell indicate to me that there is likely no engineering team to update it.


----------



## aronsonstack

dbpaddler said:


> I'm actually thinking of returning it for no other reason than I think the LG HU810P would be a better fit in the living room. The Bomaker takes up significant floor space, and the LG would be ceiling mounted where the Epson is now and take up a fraction of the space. With it being white as well, it would be nicer as an always there device and not be like, why is that thing in your living room? The Epson is a monstrosity at the seam of the LR & Dr. Has no place being there. The Bomaker would be the same way unless I put it away when not in use. And being a *** to square up would probably make using it a pain.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk


Yeah, the least important reason for me to choose Vava over Bomaker is the appearance. The Bomaker is just ugly, but this wouldn't be a factor if it clearly beats it in all other aspects, which so far, it does not. For me, at least.


hifiand3dfan said:


> So is GooBang Doo Tech identical to Bomaker since they seem to speak for Bomaker? If so, then the amount of different products they sell indicate to me that there is likely no engineering team to update it.


They only made a little over $500k on their indiegogo crowdsourcing. I don't know if that's an indication of anything. Do you think that should be a concern?


----------



## hifiand3dfan

bradk14 said:


> the laser chip is HiSense. it's not a white label product. it's like how Dell, Hewlett-Packard, Asus, etc etc all have an Intel or AMD chip. Bomaker is responsible for the engineering of the device and the board and determining which chips are used. And I guarantee the firmware that's being used in these devices aren't being used in HiSense projectors. Now whether actual Bomaker employees code the firmware or if that's outsourced, that's another thing.


I hope you are right but I strongly doubt it. What insights do you have that you can "guarantee" it? There is no 3-laser hisense available in the western hemisphere yet as far as I heard.
Dell,Asus,and so on do more than BoMaker from what I see in their other product portfolio.
First of all - I do not know what you mean with "laser chip", as the probably most relevant part is from TI.








Bomaker Polaris 4K ultra short throw laser projector review


A newcomer in the world of projectors wants to make a splash




www.techradar.com




claims that HiSense is the OEM - not just of a laser chip.
Must at least also apply to the chip handling the HDMI.
I mean no offense, but aim to challenge a bit here, that we question more what this device actually is and not just believe their marketing.

I am digging a bit.






Company Search Subscription Service


Professional Company and Officer Search Subscription Service




www.bizapedia.com




BOMAKER Trademark of Shenzhen Yingsuo Technology Co., Ltd. - Registration Number 5442170 - Serial Number 87463594 :: Justia Trademarks -
Shenzhen Yingsuo Technology Co., Ltd.



https://www.linkedin.com/company/substanbo/











BOMAKER - Substanbo Innovations Technology Limited Trademark Registration


Trademark registration for Substanbo Innovations Technology Limited. The mark consists of two parts.The top is designed by the cochlea and sound waves. The Bottom is the stylized characters




uspto.report






https://opencorporates.com/companies/us_co/20151326169







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Overseas companies gaming Amazon’s ratings system through fraud, Cleveland-area company says in lawsuit


A Cuyahoga County auto accessories company said in a lawsuit that its business on Amazon is being harmed through its competition’s manipulation of the online retail giant’s website and algorithms.




www.cleveland.com





A brief look regarding FCC:

About the remote:





BRF4K Remote Controller by GuangDong Substanbo


Get details about GuangDong Substanbo Technology Co., Ltd.'s FCC application (2AS9D-BRF4K) for Remote Controller, frequency information, user manuals, and more. Request notifications about updates to this FCC id.




electric.garden




2508, Building 4, Tianan Cloud Park Phase II,Bantian Street, Longgang District, Shenzhen, China
is the address of the entity filing for the FCC. That does not mean they have no space elsewhere of course.
So, yes, at least that device was engineered by the company.

What is interesting that this is not the information on the device is not for the actual projector, but the FCC is for a component. That limits exposure in terms of filing. Not unusual but does make research a bit more difficult. Not sure if laser devices of this class need to have a special filing in the US and where to look for it.








FCC ID 2AOKI-WFM668UWP1 Wireless Module&Bluetooth; Module by Sichuan AI-Link Technology Co.,Ltd.


FCC ID application submitted by Sichuan AI-Link Technology Co.,Ltd. for Wireless Module&Bluetooth; Module for FCC ID 2AOKI-WFM668UWP1. Approved Frequencies, User Manuals, Photos, and Wireless Reports.




fccid.io





Another brand affiliated with Substanbo - Calmdo.com - and a lot of other brands.

Have not discovered yet how Shenzhen Yingsuo Technology Co. relates to Substanbo.


----------



## bradk14

So I managed to mostly correct keystone issues by using sheets of printer paper. Just kept adding enough until the sides were pretty even. 

I have some slight bowing issues but that may be the screen itself which is pretty budget. I also have a couple of inches of the screen not covered on each side but a big part of the problem is if I pull the projector back to fill more of the screen, the image gets too high as I miscalculated when installing it and I don’t care to fix it.


----------



## hifiand3dfan

bradk14 said:


> So I managed to mostly correct keystone issues by using sheets of printer paper. Just kept adding enough until the sides were pretty even.


What did you add the paper to? Instead of the adjustment screws? ... or behind the screen on the wall?


----------



## bradk14

Yes, instead of the feet. All 4 feet are all the way up so I can keep the projection as low as possible and the front 2 are propped up with paper. Theoretically I may be able to manually adjust the front feet easier and do away with the paper but I just found that trying to calibrate with the feet alone was so troublesome.


----------



## dbpaddler

aronsonstack said:


> Yeah, the least important reason for me to choose Vava over Bomaker is the appearance. The Bomaker is just ugly, but this wouldn't be a factor if it clearly beats it in all other aspects, which so far, it does not. For me, at least.


I definitely wouldn't kick the bomaker out of bed if it were eating chips. For me it's just how the UST would work in the living room. Where I think something like the LG laser could be ceiling mounted and be unobtrusive. Or I just stick to the giant Epson until something even better comes along.

If I think I could've done a successful ceiling mount in the theater room, I'd have a project this weekend. But a 135" screen + an 8' 6" ceiling would've had the bomaker's image hitting the floor. I was amazed at the image though in the velvet theater room though. If I had the room for a false wall (and they made AT ALR UST screens, it could've worked too. But I imagine that would be one expensive screen. 

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk


----------



## dbpaddler

bradk14 said:


> Yes, instead of the feet. All 4 feet are all the way up so I can keep the projection as low as possible and the front 2 are propped up with paper. Theoretically I may be able to manually adjust the front feet easier and do away with the paper but I just found that trying to calibrate with the feet alone was so troublesome.


Would think one could take a thin sheet of plywood or similar and make some detents the feet could sit in. Wouldn't have to struggle with the projector moving as one adjusts the feet over and over. 

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk


----------



## bradk14

dbpaddler said:


> Would think one could take a thin sheet of plywood or similar and make some detents the feet could sit in. Wouldn't have to struggle with the projector moving as one adjusts the feet over and over.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk


well the idea with the paper is that I was able to fine-tune the adjustments. I initially tried an instruction booklet and it was too high so I thought about individual sheets.If I was able to get a sheet of wood of exactly the same thickness, sure.

It’s not the prettiest but I’m looking at the screen and not the projector. As long as it’s not a fire hazard, I’m probably just gonna leave it as it is personally


----------



## tmpayne91

I think this is the best I’ll get the alignment. Worth the pain in the ass but it looks great at 125 inches


----------



## Meihk

Has anyone used a colorimeter to calibrate their projector? I'm thinking that might be the best way to tune the colors to be perfect. The guesswork is not panning out as much as I'd like.


----------



## IDAnonymous

uvaskeme said:


> ABOX HOME US via Amazon currently has a $200 coupon and 20% off code (AK45GJZY) for this projector. Price is $1880 + tax with free Prime shipping.


I didn't know this existed. I would be hesitant about the IGG. And I want to wait for 3d OTA update & keystone adjustments. But I would have jumped in on $1880+tax price with amazon.



lilbuddha said:


> I almost made the same mistake since the terms are used interchangeably but there is a difference between CLR and ALR and you have to look closely at the description to see if its ultra short throw compatible or not. I had looked at the Vava ust screen, it is definitely the best value I've seen.
> 
> Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences so far - I've been reading closely. So it seems like overall vs the Vava some of the major differences are: 1) box settings are horrible but the potential is there for it to have better PQ than the vava 2) no electronic focus/keystone, 3) the speakers are bad - the vava speakers I've found to be quite impressive although I don't them, 4) its quieter and seems to run cooler, 5) shorter warranty. Its on sale again for 10 dollars more than the last sale price so may bite the bullet this time!


Its on sale again for $1890 6 days ago? I wish they will do a super bowl sale for under $2000. I returned the vava & is waiting for this to go on deep sale again. Not in a rush.

Is this really 107% of bt2020? I know they will have to pay for dolby vision certification/license, but does this satisfy dv certification with that contrast and brightness? Can't DV be scaled (or whatever its called)? For example DV is on cheaper tvs, or 850 nit oleds when it is mastered at 2000 nits or something. And can someone confirm VRR?


----------



## SpeedracerII

phchrono said:


> Xiaomi 4K vs Polaris 4K (IanLaurie parameter with HDR in medium - Screen Fengmi Black Grid CLR)
> Gemini 4K 60fps HDR
> View attachment 3084485
> 
> 
> Now I search a good setting for SDR
> With Sport mode it's good, but the blue is not blue. it is blue green (turquoise)


I have a Xiaomi 4K and I see rainbows from the color wheel. I'm wondering if you saw them too and if so, how does the Bomaker compare to the Xiaomi? Thanks.


----------



## phchrono

SpeedracerII said:


> I have a Xiaomi 4K and I see rainbows from the color wheel. I'm wondering if you saw them too and if so, how does the Bomaker compare to the Xiaomi? Thanks.


I am not sensitive to rainbows. I do not see on the Bomaker as on the Xiaomi.


----------



## imhotep6

So just discovered this little beauty on Amazon yesterday and came here to get some reviews. I’ve placed an order should be here Wednesday. I’ll post some pics. When it comes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## lilbuddha

Just got my polaris a few days back. When I first received the box I was taken aback at how large it is! Almost twice as tall as the vava's box- but to my surprise its actually a little smaller than the vava and much lighter. I was impressed with the packaging is much nicer (dare I saw a little more premium/special feeling) than the vavas with thick padding all around. The roku is included as promised. I liked the big poster they included - I'm using it as a dust cover for the the projector overnights 

The angular aesthetics is pretty much the opposite to my soft/rounded white vava. The build/plastic does not feel as high quality, but the polaris has a darth vader look which matches perfectly with with my JBL studio 5 series speakers.

First impressions is I was amazed at how quiet and cool it runs! no coil noise and its actually blowing cool air instead of the hot/warm air of the vava - seems to run cooler than my laptop which is very impressive. The colors seem more vibrant and sharper, but it definitely has a pinkish tint/oversaturated look in the menus/stills. However, it look much better when playing videos - HDR videos look good and natural. I'm sure calibrating it will improve this further. The remote looks nice but feels a bit cheap in my hand - has both IR and Bluetooth which is cool. I'm using the new google Chromecast with google tv anyways, although I'm not much impressed of its remote either. The menus could be better, especially with options to toggle he system sounds.

Some nice touches - I'm happy that it automatically starts at the source you last turned off -i hated having to go through the menu to select hdmi1 each time the vava turned on - since I would need the vava remote to do this. Here I am able to turn on/off with the google tv remote and use most of the functions, although I still need the bomaker remote to do the settings etc. Another interesting note, the placement almost matches exactly how I had set up the vava, so no major issues getting everything lined up. The polaris actually as 4 adjustable legs compared to just 2 for the vava, so it was actually much easier for me to set up.

So overall I'm impressed enough to return the vava. One question, did you guys us the qr code to go to the bomaker website to register and get a "free gift"? I filled it out and it says my warranty is extended but I still don't know what that means or how long it is for. Also no free gift  but I'm not complaining since the price was so good through amazon.

Btw- I'm not sure about all the reviews on amazon - most seem fake to me so I was a little worried, but overall I'm quite happy with the projector. Hope the updates, customer service and reliability will be as good. Looking forward to seeing all your guys setting to make it even better.


----------



## tmpayne91

lilbuddha said:


> Just got my polaris a few days back. When I first received the box I was taken aback at how large it is! Almost twice as tall as the vava's box- but to my surprise its actually a little smaller than the vava and much lighter. I was impressed with the packaging is much nicer (dare I saw a little more premium/special feeling) than the vavas with thick padding all around. The roku is included as promised. I liked the big poster they included - I'm using it as a dust cover for the the projector overnights
> 
> The angular aesthetics is pretty much the opposite to my soft/rounded white vava. The build/plastic does not feel as high quality, but the polaris has a darth vader look which matches perfectly with with my JBL studio 5 series speakers.
> 
> First impressions is I was amazed at how quiet and cool it runs! no coil noise and its actually blowing cool air instead of the hot/warm air of the vava - seems to run cooler than my laptop which is very impressive. The colors seem more vibrant and sharper, but it definitely has a pinkish tint/oversaturated look in the menus/stills. However, it look much better when playing videos - HDR videos look good and natural. I'm sure calibrating it will improve this further. The remote looks nice but feels a bit cheap in my hand - has both IR and Bluetooth which is cool. I'm using the new google Chromecast with google tv anyways, although I'm not much impressed of its remote either.
> 
> Some nice touches - I'm happy that it automatically starts at the source you last turned off -i hated having to go through the menu to select hdmi1 each time the vava turned on - since I would need the vava remote to do this. Here I am able to turn on/off with the google tv remote and use most of the functions, although I still need the bomaker remote to do the settings etc. Another interesting note, the placement almost matches exactly how I had set up the vava, so no major issues getting everything lined up. The polaris actually as 4 adjustable legs compared to just 2 for the vava, so it was actually much easier for me to set up.
> 
> So overall I'm impressed enough to return the vava. One question, did you guys us the qr code to go to the bomaker website to register and get a "free gift"? I filled it out and it says my warranty is extended but I still don't know what that means or how long it is for. Also no free gift  but I'm not complaining since the price was so good through amazon.
> 
> Btw- I'm not sure about all the reviews on amazon - most seem fake to me so I was a little worried, but overall I'm quite happy with the projector. Hope the updates, customer service and reliability will be as good. Looking forward to seeing all your guys setting to make it even better.


Same here with the free gift.
Also, does anyone know the input lag?


----------



## pulp1

lilbuddha said:


> Just got my polaris a few days back. When I first received the box I was taken aback at how large it is! Almost twice as tall as the vava's box- but to my surprise its actually a little smaller than the vava and much lighter. I was impressed with the packaging is much nicer (dare I saw a little more premium/special feeling) than the vavas with thick padding all around. The roku is included as promised. I liked the big poster they included - I'm using it as a dust cover for the the projector overnights
> 
> The angular aesthetics is pretty much the opposite to my soft/rounded white vava. The build/plastic does not feel as high quality, but the polaris has a darth vader look which matches perfectly with with my JBL studio 5 series speakers.
> 
> First impressions is I was amazed at how quiet and cool it runs! no coil noise and its actually blowing cool air instead of the hot/warm air of the vava - seems to run cooler than my laptop which is very impressive. The colors seem more vibrant and sharper, but it definitely has a pinkish tint/oversaturated look in the menus/stills. However, it look much better when playing videos - HDR videos look good and natural. I'm sure calibrating it will improve this further. The remote looks nice but feels a bit cheap in my hand - has both IR and Bluetooth which is cool. I'm using the new google Chromecast with google tv anyways, although I'm not much impressed of its remote either. The menus could be better, especially with options to toggle he system sounds.
> 
> Some nice touches - I'm happy that it automatically starts at the source you last turned off -i hated having to go through the menu to select hdmi1 each time the vava turned on - since I would need the vava remote to do this. Here I am able to turn on/off with the google tv remote and use most of the functions, although I still need the bomaker remote to do the settings etc. Another interesting note, the placement almost matches exactly how I had set up the vava, so no major issues getting everything lined up. The polaris actually as 4 adjustable legs compared to just 2 for the vava, so it was actually much easier for me to set up.
> 
> So overall I'm impressed enough to return the vava. One question, did you guys us the qr code to go to the bomaker website to register and get a "free gift"? I filled it out and it says my warranty is extended but I still don't know what that means or how long it is for. Also no free gift  but I'm not complaining since the price was so good through amazon.
> 
> Btw- I'm not sure about all the reviews on amazon - most seem fake to me so I was a little worried, but overall I'm quite happy with the projector. Hope the updates, customer service and reliability will be as good. Looking forward to seeing all your guys setting to make it even better.


Hey, what was the price on Amazon? Do you really think it’s worth getting over the VAVA?
Also is this American based or Chinese? How does the warranty work? Super interested in this one but a bit worried about the lack of keystone correction.


----------



## bradk14

tmpayne91 said:


> Same here with the free gift.
> Also, does anyone know the input lag?


they say 50-60 ms. People have complained about games like cod Cold War but are good with many others


----------



## phchrono

bradk14 said:


> they say 50-60 ms. People have complained about games like cod Cold War but are good with many others


to have the 50-60ms you have to be in game mode or does it work all the time? thank you


----------



## Sophia Luo

phchrono said:


> I am not sensitive to rainbows. I do not see on the Bomaker as on the Xiaomi.





phchrono said:


> I am not sensitive to rainbows. I do not see on the Bomaker as on the Xiaomi.


Virtually all DLP projectors exhibit the rainbow stroboscopic effect. However, the effect is more easily noticed in older and cheaper projectors that sport slower rotating balls. The faster the rotating ball, the lower chances of a user experiencing the effect. I have got a Bomaker laser tv projector and it uses Newer DLP projectors feature faster speeds that make the DLP rainbow effect less likely to show up. Xiaomi only use the single chips and color, so it gets more chances to product the rainbow effect.


----------



## Sophia Luo

lilbuddha said:


> Just got my polaris a few days back. When I first received the box I was taken aback at how large it is! Almost twice as tall as the vava's box- but to my surprise its actually a little smaller than the vava and much lighter. I was impressed with the packaging is much nicer (dare I saw a little more premium/special feeling) than the vavas with thick padding all around. The roku is included as promised. I liked the big poster they included - I'm using it as a dust cover for the the projector overnights
> 
> The angular aesthetics is pretty much the opposite to my soft/rounded white vava. The build/plastic does not feel as high quality, but the polaris has a darth vader look which matches perfectly with with my JBL studio 5 series speakers.
> 
> First impressions is I was amazed at how quiet and cool it runs! no coil noise and its actually blowing cool air instead of the hot/warm air of the vava - seems to run cooler than my laptop which is very impressive. The colors seem more vibrant and sharper, but it definitely has a pinkish tint/oversaturated look in the menus/stills. However, it look much better when playing videos - HDR videos look good and natural. I'm sure calibrating it will improve this further. The remote looks nice but feels a bit cheap in my hand - has both IR and Bluetooth which is cool. I'm using the new google Chromecast with google tv anyways, although I'm not much impressed of its remote either. The menus could be better, especially with options to toggle he system sounds.
> 
> Some nice touches - I'm happy that it automatically starts at the source you last turned off -i hated having to go through the menu to select hdmi1 each time the vava turned on - since I would need the vava remote to do this. Here I am able to turn on/off with the google tv remote and use most of the functions, although I still need the bomaker remote to do the settings etc. Another interesting note, the placement almost matches exactly how I had set up the vava, so no major issues getting everything lined up. The polaris actually as 4 adjustable legs compared to just 2 for the vava, so it was actually much easier for me to set up.
> 
> So overall I'm impressed enough to return the vava. One question, did you guys us the qr code to go to the bomaker website to register and get a "free gift"? I filled it out and it says my warranty is extended but I still don't know what that means or how long it is for. Also no free gift  but I'm not complaining since the price was so good through amazon.
> 
> Btw- I'm not sure about all the reviews on amazon - most seem fake to me so I was a little worried, but overall I'm quite happy with the projector. Hope the updates, customer service and reliability will be as good. Looking forward to seeing all your guys setting to make it even better.


----------



## Sophia Luo

I have got it too,it is very impressive too. I have asked their services about warranty and they have local repair team, if you contact them with product-related question, they will arrange the engineer to help you solves this issues.


----------



## Sophia Luo

tmpayne91 said:


> Same here with the free gift.
> Also, does anyone know the input lag?


This is the time difference between when a video signal arrives at your projector and when that picture is displayed on the screen. All digital projectors, regardless of their specifications or intended use, will incur some amount of input lag. That's just the nature of digital video processing -- the projector has to take a stream of ones and zeroes and reconstitute it as an image


----------



## bradk14

phchrono said:


> to have the 50-60ms you have to be in game mode or does it work all the time? thank you


I'm not sure what game mode is tbh. there are game settings for video and sound, but those are just presets. I don't think there is an explicit game mode per se, you just may have to turn some of the options off manually or adjust them for better play. i haven't hooked my console up to it yet


----------



## pulp1

Hey guys, this looks like a really cool projector. Was just curious what the warranty situation was like? How long is it and if it goes wrong can you send it to somewhere in the US or do you have to ship it off to China? I'm really keen to join you on this adventure, just a little bit wary of the risk. Thanks for your help!


----------



## Sophia Luo

pulp1 said:


> Hey guys, this looks like a really cool projector. Was just curious what the warranty situation was like? How long is it and if it goes wrong can you send it to somewhere in the US or do you have to ship it off to China? I'm really keen to join you on this adventure, just a little bit wary of the risk. Thanks for your help!


They has American based support team.


----------



## pulp1

Sophia Luo said:


> They has American based support team.


And what do you think about quality? Obviously it had very good tech in it. Just a bit worried that this very good tech is also pretty cheap, meaning maybe they cut some corners which could lead to problems further down the road after the warranty has run out. Can’t afford to just throw it away and buy another one in a year or so’s time.

also, have they fixed the keystone yet?


----------



## tmpayne91

pulp1 said:


> And what do you think about quality? Obviously it had very good tech in it. Just a bit worried that this very good tech is also pretty cheap, meaning maybe they cut some corners which could lead to problems further down the road after the warranty has run out. Can’t afford to just throw it away and buy another one in a year or so’s time.
> 
> also, have they fixed the keystone yet?


No update on keystone so far. To be honest even large companies have some pretty trash customer service so there’s no telling to be honest.


----------



## pulp1

tmpayne91 said:


> No update on keystone so far. To be honest even large companies have some pretty trash customer service so there’s no telling to be honest.


Ok, thanks. How easy is going to be to setup without keystone? Right now I'm just planning to project again a wall.
It also doesn't have focus either, right? Is that a big deal? How does this stack up against the VAVA? And are you confident of the long-term quality. Hardware sees good, software not so much?


----------



## bradk14

pulp1 said:


> Ok, thanks. How easy is going to be to setup without keystone? Right now I'm just planning to project again a wall.
> It also doesn't have focus either, right? Is that a big deal? How does this stack up against the VAVA? And are you confident of the long-term quality. Hardware sees good, software not so much?


using a wall isn't ideal. if the wall isn't perfectly flat, there will be distortions in the image. if there are any bumps/texture, the image being projected from below will cause shadows to be cast on the image itself. and that's assuming the wall color isn't detrimental to the image as well. ideally you should use a tensioned screen, even if a cheap one, if you can control lighting in the room (although this is a fairly bright projector).

focus is fixed, which just means that you need to physically place the projector in 3D space where you want the size/location of the image to be. there is no _digital_ keystone correction at this time. keystone correction is manual via the four adjustable feet. setting it up perfectly is tedious and time consuming, but probably less so if you have someone from the viewing distance to assist. basically given the nature of UST, the projector is very sensitive to the tiniest of adjustments and it's super easy to overcompensate if you aren't careful. also, each correction then makes something else need to be correctable. for example, if you fix keystone, the image size is probably affected, this means you need to move the projector closer/further, up/down, and if you aren't completely careful, you'll probably need another keystone adjustment. rinse. repeat.

though if you can get away with using the wall and you aren't trying to fit it to a screen, you'll have a much easier time as size won't be as much an issue with correction.

as for the hardware, I've had it for almost a month, it's become my primary viewing source and so far, so good. even the best manufacturers in the world have bad production runs, so it's more about the support than the hardware itself, but it's good to keep in mind that warranties are a science, so if it outlives the warranty, you've gotten your money's worth anyway.


----------



## pulp1

bradk14 said:


> using a wall isn't ideal. if the wall isn't perfectly flat, there will be distortions in the image. if there are any bumps/texture, the image being projected from below will cause shadows to be cast on the image itself. and that's assuming the wall color isn't detrimental to the image as well. ideally you should use a tensioned screen, even if a cheap one, if you can control lighting in the room (although this is a fairly bright projector).
> 
> focus is fixed, which just means that you need to physically place the projector in 3D space where you want the size/location of the image to be. there is no _digital_ keystone correction at this time. keystone correction is manual via the four adjustable feet. setting it up perfectly is tedious and time consuming, but probably less so if you have someone from the viewing distance to assist. basically given the nature of UST, the projector is very sensitive to the tiniest of adjustments and it's super easy to overcompensate if you aren't careful. also, each correction then makes something else need to be correctable. for example, if you fix keystone, the image size is probably affected, this means you need to move the projector closer/further, up/down, and if you aren't completely careful, you'll probably need another keystone adjustment. rinse. repeat.
> 
> though if you can get away with using the wall and you aren't trying to fit it to a screen, you'll have a much easier time as size won't be as much an issue with correction.
> 
> as for the hardware, I've had it for almost a month, it's become my primary viewing source and so far, so good. even the best manufacturers in the world have bad production runs, so it's more about the support than the hardware itself, but it's good to keep in mind that warranties are a science, so if it outlives the warranty, you've gotten your money's worth anyway.


Cool, thanks a lot for explaining all that to me. How long is the warranty btw? And do you have to return it to somewhere in the US or do they have people to service it locally? I tried contacting support to ask questions and they weren't great. They asked me 3 times what projector I was talking about, despite me attaching a picture of it, pasting the website, and naming the email, "Bomaker Polaris"  So, that's probably my main concern right now, support and software. Which are quite important I think.


----------



## zuksis

I just created this username cause I really appreciate this thread and wanted to help out. I recently purchased this projector and have been calibrating it for the last 3 days (i'm new to this). I am using a istudio pro plus and the hcfr program. based on a 1.1 gain screen (not an ALR screen) here are my results for a delta on the grey scale of less than 3 and a gamma of roughly 2.2. Color wise the delta was all below 9 except for red (red always looked super saturated on anything if i brought the delta closer). Do know I'm a complete amateur at this color calibration stuff, so take my setting with a grain of salt. I figured that as I calibrate it more, I'll get a little better each time.

SDR calibration
Temp: Hot
Gamma: standard
brightness: 55
contrast: 46
saturation: 37
Sharpness: 50
R gain: 150
R offset: 120
G gain: 114
G offset: 120
B gain: 193
B offset: 122

R tone 42
R sat 31
R brightness 38
G tone 65
G sat 50
G brightness 63
B tone 48
B sat 59
B brightness 41
C tone 58
C sat 40
C brightness 46
M tone 57
M sat 62
M brightness 60
Y tone 24
Y sat 34
Y brightness 31


I would love to do the HDR calibration, but I learned that it is much harder than I expected. Will need to play around with that later.


----------



## phchrono

zuksis said:


> I just created this username cause I really appreciate this thread and wanted to help out. I recently purchased this projector and have been calibrating it for the last 3 days (i'm new to this). I am using a istudio pro plus and the hcfr program. based on a 1.1 gain screen (not an ALR screen) here are my results for a delta on the grey scale of less than 3 and a gamma of roughly 2.2. Color wise the delta was all below 9 except for red (red always looked super saturated on anything if i brought the delta closer). Do know I'm a complete amateur at this color calibration stuff, so take my setting with a grain of salt. I figured that as I calibrate it more, I'll get a little better each time.
> 
> SDR calibration
> Temp: Hot
> Gamma: standard
> brightness: 55
> contrast: 46
> saturation: 37
> Sharpness: 50
> R gain: 150
> R offset: 120
> G gain: 114
> G offset: 120
> B gain: 193
> B offset: 122
> 
> R tone 42
> R sat 31
> R brightness 38
> G tone 65
> G sat 50
> G brightness 63
> B tone 48
> B sat 59
> B brightness 41
> C tone 58
> C sat 40
> C brightness 46
> M tone 57
> M sat 62
> M brightness 60
> Y tone 24
> Y sat 34
> Y brightness 31
> 
> 
> I would love to do the HDR calibration, but I learned that it is much harder than I expected. Will need to play around with that later.


Thanks for your setting. I go to test it tonight


----------



## spencerwaltz

Am I being a complete numpty? I cant seem to adjust any settings such as brightness etc etc


----------



## bradk14

spencerwaltz said:


> Am I being a complete numpty? I cant seem to adjust any settings such as brightness etc etc


Starting with the basics, you do have to be in User mode on the standard/HDR settings.


----------



## spencerwaltz

bradk14 said:


> Starting with the basics, you do have to be in User mode on the standard/HDR settings.


I am my remote keeps jumping back and forth...


----------



## bradk14

spencerwaltz said:


> I am my remote keeps jumping back and forth...


I'm not sure what that means to be honest, it shouldn't. there are different settings between HDR and non-HDR, but it should be obvious since it says HDR for each of the settings. So once you select User (the last option), and click OK, all the other settings should be open to you.


----------



## phchrono

zuksis said:


> I just created this username cause I really appreciate this thread and wanted to help out. I recently purchased this projector and have been calibrating it for the last 3 days (i'm new to this). I am using a istudio pro plus and the hcfr program. based on a 1.1 gain screen (not an ALR screen) here are my results for a delta on the grey scale of less than 3 and a gamma of roughly 2.2. Color wise the delta was all below 9 except for red (red always looked super saturated on anything if i brought the delta closer). Do know I'm a complete amateur at this color calibration stuff, so take my setting with a grain of salt. I figured that as I calibrate it more, I'll get a little better each time.
> 
> SDR calibration
> Temp: Hot
> Gamma: standard
> brightness: 55
> contrast: 46
> saturation: 37
> Sharpness: 50
> R gain: 150
> R offset: 120
> G gain: 114
> G offset: 120
> B gain: 193
> B offset: 122
> 
> R tone 42
> R sat 31
> R brightness 38
> G tone 65
> G sat 50
> G brightness 63
> B tone 48
> B sat 59
> B brightness 41
> C tone 58
> C sat 40
> C brightness 46
> M tone 57
> M sat 62
> M brightness 60
> Y tone 24
> Y sat 34
> Y brightness 31
> 
> 
> I would love to do the HDR calibration, but I learned that it is much harder than I expected. Will need to play around with that later.


good settings, but you don't have the correct skin value? You don't touch it? I find people's skin worse than in sport mode. otherwise the rest is great. thank you.

Edit:
finally, following the images, we see a predominance of red. especially on white or gray but the blue is very blue. not easy to have the right settings.
I have a CLR screen. that's why it doesn't work maybe . How to change the blue green of sport mode to normal blue. there is just that corrected.


----------



## tmpayne91

spencerwaltz said:


> I am my remote keeps jumping back and forth...


Any other Bluetooth items? I had to disconnect a led strip since the remote was interacting with it


----------



## zuksis

phchrono said:


> good settings, but you don't have the correct skin value? You don't touch it? I find people's skin worse than in sport mode. otherwise the rest is great. thank you.
> 
> Edit:
> finally, following the images, we see a predominance of red. especially on white or gray but the blue is very blue. not easy to have the right settings.
> I have a CLR screen. that's why it doesn't work maybe . How to change the blue green of sport mode to normal blue. there is just that corrected.


To be honest I haven't been able to play around with the skin settings. From the hcfr program there isn't really anything (that I have found) to calibrate skin settings.

I would assume that with a clr screen you would end up with better contrast but since the screen is grey you would have a higher gamma. I would totally grab a CLR screen if I could, but they just don't make one in 120" that you don't pay out the nose for. Sigh 😞


----------



## Sophia Luo

pulp1 said:


> Ok, thanks. How easy is going to be to setup without keystone? Right now I'm just planning to project again a wall.
> It also doesn't have focus either, right? Is that a big deal? How does this stack up against the VAVA? And are you confident of the long-term quality. Hardware sees good, software not so much?


They said they have covered 24 month warranty and during this days, if you have any issues with this projectors, they will arrange the repair enginner to help you personally.


----------



## Meihk

zuksis said:


> To be honest I haven't been able to play around with the skin settings. From the hcfr program there isn't really anything (that I have found) to calibrate skin settings.
> 
> I would assume that with a clr screen you would end up with better contrast but since the screen is grey you would have a higher gamma. I would totally grab a CLR screen if I could, but they just don't make one in 120" that you don't pay out the nose for. Sigh 😞


I got a 120" that was affordable, ($500 plus $250 shipping) through Alibaba and it's really good. It's imported from China though.


----------



## imhotep6

Got mine in today. Colors are off and so is sharpness out the box.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tmpayne91

imhotep6 said:


> Got mine in today. Colors are off and so is sharpness out the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The angle definitely looks off


----------



## imhotep6

Yeah this was just taking it out the box and seeing how it looked. The picture is bright though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## zuksis

imhotep6 said:


> Yeah this was just taking it out the box and seeing how it looked. The picture is bright though.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah I learned that you really have to calibrate it to get a good color image. I bought it knowing that (I bought the optoma p2 with it to compare), but I feel like after calibrating it is really one hell of a value for the projector.

When I was calibrating in the beginning, the grey's were completely out of wack (a delta above 20) and that really affected the image. Once I corrected the greyscale it made a significant difference, would say more than when I tried calibrating the individual colors. That's what led me to keeping it


----------



## kidsgone11

laserdiscguy said:


> I've been eyeing a UST projector for months but, like any relatively new technology, I think they're overpriced IMHO so I was holding off. I was ready to pull the trigger on a Vava while it was on sale earlier in the month, but they didn't ship to Canada so that was off the table for me. And although the new Samsungs sounded intriguing, they're still not available in Canada and, regardless, are just too expensive. I decided to roll the dice on the Polaris because it's relatively affordable compared to the competition and appears to have superior specs to a lot of them.


What is your opinion of the polaris?


----------



## pulp1

Are any of you guys worried about the support for this thing? Looks like great tech and I'm seriously considering it. I'm just a bit worried about how long they're taking to address the keystone issue. And then how good the firmware updates will be. More importantly the fact I'm unable to get hold of their service or support. The phone number on their website connects to a totally different department that doesn't deal with the Polaris. And I was told by them that there is no phone support only email. The number on FB doesn't work. And I have received very poor responses on email. The warranty appears to be 12-15 months, which isn't that long for a device with suspiciously cheap tech in it based on triple lasers etc. This suggests corners were probably cut, leading to possible failure further down the road. Are you all just jumping on this hoping that it doesn't go wrong in a year or so's time? Cos I must admit, despite all I'm saying, I'm still tempted. It's this, VAVA 4K or the Wemax Nova that looks like a US version of the Fengmi Cinema Pro 4K.


----------



## laserdiscguy

kidsgone11 said:


> What is your opinion of the polaris?


I've had mine for about a week and a half now and here are my impressions thus far:

Pro's
-projected image is extremely bright; in the evening with minimal light it looks amazing, and during the day it is somewhat usable without an ALR screen (though it'll be washed out)
-colors are very vibrant
-image is nice and sharp in the 105" to 110" range I've used so far, text is very clear
-very quiet during operation, minimal fan noise
-rainbow effect is not evident to me
-motion handling is great, even without MEMC, no judder in 24fps film content

Con's
-having issues using ARC
-there is a narrow border of light around the perimeter of the projected image; it's not very noticeable in actual usage though
-sound is decent, not spectacular, though this isn't an issue for me as I'm using an external sound system

The first time I powered the Polaris up, I was floored by the image quality, particularly compared to the super cheap long-throw projector that preceded it. When using it in the evenings, I often have to remind myself that this is a projector because sometimes I feel like I'm looking at an LED TV.

I've tried a variety of sources on it including PS4 games, 4K blurays, along with streaming content from Netflix and Disney+. Certain movies, such as Valerian and the City of a Thousand Planets and Spider-man: Into the Spider-verse really pop in terms of color. I haven't adjusted any image settings yet because I want to set up my ALR screen first.

Anyway, I have zero regrets purchasing this projector; it has absolutely exceeded my expectations. I hope everyone is enjoying theirs as much as I'm enjoying mine.


----------



## pulp1

laserdiscguy said:


> I've had mine for about a week and a half now and here are my impressions thus far:
> 
> Pro's
> -projected image is extremely bright; in the evening with minimal light it looks amazing, and during the day it is somewhat usable without an ALR screen (though it'll be washed out)
> -colors are very vibrant
> -image is nice and sharp in the 105" to 110" range I've used so far, text is very clear
> -very quiet during operation, minimal fan noise
> -rainbow effect is not evident to me
> -motion handling is great, even without MEMC, no judder in 24fps film content
> 
> Con's
> -having issues using ARC
> -there is a narrow border of light around the perimeter of the projected image; it's not very noticeable in actual usage though
> -sound is decent, not spectacular, though this isn't an issue for me as I'm using an external sound system
> 
> The first time I powered the Polaris up, I was floored by the image quality, particularly compared to the super cheap long-throw projector that preceded it. When using it in the evenings, I often have to remind myself that this is a projector because sometimes I feel like I'm looking at an LED TV.
> 
> I've tried a variety of sources on it including PS4 games, 4K blurays, along with streaming content from Netflix and Disney+. Certain movies, such as Valerian and the City of a Thousand Planets and Spider-man: Into the Spider-verse really pop in terms of color. I haven't adjusted any image settings yet because I want to set up my ALR screen first.
> 
> Anyway, I have zero regrets purchasing this projector; it has absolutely exceeded my expectations. I hope everyone is enjoying theirs as much as I'm enjoying mine.


Are you using on a regular screen or wall for now? Would love someone to tell me how it is on just a wall cos that’s my only option right now, sadly.


----------



## tmpayne91

laserdiscguy said:


> I've had mine for about a week and a half now and here are my impressions thus far:
> 
> Pro's
> -projected image is extremely bright; in the evening with minimal light it looks amazing, and during the day it is somewhat usable without an ALR screen (though it'll be washed out)
> -colors are very vibrant
> -image is nice and sharp in the 105" to 110" range I've used so far, text is very clear
> -very quiet during operation, minimal fan noise
> -rainbow effect is not evident to me
> -motion handling is great, even without MEMC, no judder in 24fps film content
> 
> Con's
> -having issues using ARC
> -there is a narrow border of light around the perimeter of the projected image; it's not very noticeable in actual usage though
> -sound is decent, not spectacular, though this isn't an issue for me as I'm using an external sound system
> 
> The first time I powered the Polaris up, I was floored by the image quality, particularly compared to the super cheap long-throw projector that preceded it. When using it in the evenings, I often have to remind myself that this is a projector because sometimes I feel like I'm looking at an LED TV.
> 
> I've tried a variety of sources on it including PS4 games, 4K blurays, along with streaming content from Netflix and Disney+. Certain movies, such as Valerian and the City of a Thousand Planets and Spider-man: Into the Spider-verse really pop in terms of color. I haven't adjusted any image settings yet because I want to set up my ALR screen first.
> 
> Anyway, I have zero regrets purchasing this projector; it has absolutely exceeded my expectations. I hope everyone is enjoying theirs as much as I'm enjoying mine.


 How’s the input lag on PS4?


----------



## bradk14

laserdiscguy said:


> I've tried a variety of sources on it including PS4 games, 4K blurays, along with streaming content from Netflix and Disney+. Certain movies, such as Valerian and the City of a Thousand Planets and Spider-man: Into the Spider-verse really pop in terms of color. I haven't adjusted any image settings yet because I want to set up my ALR screen first.
> 
> Anyway, I have zero regrets purchasing this projector; it has absolutely exceeded my expectations. I hope everyone is enjoying theirs as much as I'm enjoying mine.


Into the Spider-Verse in 4K is one of the first things I watched on it


----------



## bradk14

pulp1 said:


> Are you using on a regular screen or wall for now? Would love someone to tell me how it is on just a wall cos that’s my only option right now, sadly.


unless your wall is 100% flat, even, texture-free, imperfection-free, treated with the appropriate paint, it's almost irrelevant as everyone will get a different result. that's why you need a tensioned screen with UST, let alone 4K


----------



## tmpayne91

Was just able to order an Xbox SX through Newegg lottery system. Will post my results with the projector when I get it


----------



## zuksis

kidsgone11 said:


> What is your opinion of the polaris?


If I had to rate the projector out of a 10, I would give it a solid 8. At below 2000 dollars (when I purchased it) it was practically a steal for the hardware that you are given (assuming it is true that it is a tri laser projector). I will admit that the price did have a effect on me when deciding to keep it, but as the old saying goes, "you get what you pay for". Even though you get the tri laser, you also get a projector that essentially come way off color and over saturated. This is not a beginner friendly projector.

Some goods side to it would be:
Price
Brightness (my previous 2500 Ansi Lumen projector is no where near as bright as this one)
Color (definitely has some eye popping color)
High level of control over greys and colors
Eye safety feature (some people hate it, but I have a baby coming soon and I would rather have a slightly too sensitive sensor than not sensitive enough)

Cons:
Comes with greys and colors completely out of whack. You definitely have to calibrate it to make this projector worth it.

The UI is pretty butt. they try to compensate for that by providing a 4K roku stick. Makes me miss the LG projector UI.

The Oversaturation. Right out of the box most colors were oversaturated, some to the point of blown out. I worked really hard to fix the over saturation, but even after calibrating it seems like some pictures that hit a bright orange/yellow orange ends up still looking just slightly oversaturated. I can tell I'm a total amateur at calibrating so it makes me hopeful that I might be able to fix that with more practice with the colorimeter.

Service. Lets be honest to ourselves, cause the brand is so new/unknown, its hard to tell what service your going to get.


During the time of purchase I also purchased the Optoma P2 to compare. Sound wise the P2 was better and Color Accuracy out of the box was definitely on point with the P2, but I will say it didnt feel like the P2 had the "POP" with the colors that the bomaker had. After a few days I returned the P2.

In the end, I decided on keeping the projector. The price made my wife happy, the colors are very good now, and I even bought a portable screen so that we can have outdoor movie night with the friends during the pandemic (easy to keep 6 ft distance from eachother when your screen is 120").

I did recalibrate my screen since the last time I posted them (made some mistakes with the previous one that made darks too dark), I'll need to grab the new numbers and repost.


----------



## Loicparis

hifiand3dfan said:


> I hope you are right but I strongly doubt it. What insights do you have that you can "guarantee" it? There is no 3-laser hisense available in the western hemisphere yet as far as I heard.
> Dell,Asus,and so on do more than BoMaker from what I see in their other product portfolio.
> First of all - I do not know what you mean with "laser chip", as the probably most relevant part is from TI.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bomaker Polaris 4K ultra short throw laser projector review
> 
> 
> A newcomer in the world of projectors wants to make a splash
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.techradar.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> claims that HiSense is the OEM - not just of a laser chip.
> Must at least also apply to the chip handling the HDMI.
> I mean no offense, but aim to challenge a bit here, that we question more what this device actually is and not just believe their marketing.
> 
> I am digging a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Company Search Subscription Service
> 
> 
> Professional Company and Officer Search Subscription Service
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.bizapedia.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BOMAKER Trademark of Shenzhen Yingsuo Technology Co., Ltd. - Registration Number 5442170 - Serial Number 87463594 :: Justia Trademarks -
> Shenzhen Yingsuo Technology Co., Ltd.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.linkedin.com/company/substanbo/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BOMAKER - Substanbo Innovations Technology Limited Trademark Registration
> 
> 
> Trademark registration for Substanbo Innovations Technology Limited. The mark consists of two parts.The top is designed by the cochlea and sound waves. The Bottom is the stylized characters
> 
> 
> 
> 
> uspto.report
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://opencorporates.com/companies/us_co/20151326169
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Company Search Subscription Service
> 
> 
> Professional Company and Officer Search Subscription Service
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.bizapedia.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overseas companies gaming Amazon’s ratings system through fraud, Cleveland-area company says in lawsuit
> 
> 
> A Cuyahoga County auto accessories company said in a lawsuit that its business on Amazon is being harmed through its competition’s manipulation of the online retail giant’s website and algorithms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.cleveland.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A brief look regarding FCC:
> 
> About the remote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BRF4K Remote Controller by GuangDong Substanbo
> 
> 
> Get details about GuangDong Substanbo Technology Co., Ltd.'s FCC application (2AS9D-BRF4K) for Remote Controller, frequency information, user manuals, and more. Request notifications about updates to this FCC id.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> electric.garden
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2508, Building 4, Tianan Cloud Park Phase II,Bantian Street, Longgang District, Shenzhen, China
> is the address of the entity filing for the FCC. That does not mean they have no space elsewhere of course.
> So, yes, at least that device was engineered by the company.
> 
> What is interesting that this is not the information on the device is not for the actual projector, but the FCC is for a component. That limits exposure in terms of filing. Not unusual but does make research a bit more difficult. Not sure if laser devices of this class need to have a special filing in the US and where to look for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FCC ID 2AOKI-WFM668UWP1 Wireless Module&Bluetooth; Module by Sichuan AI-Link Technology Co.,Ltd.
> 
> 
> FCC ID application submitted by Sichuan AI-Link Technology Co.,Ltd. for Wireless Module&Bluetooth; Module for FCC ID 2AOKI-WFM668UWP1. Approved Frequencies, User Manuals, Photos, and Wireless Reports.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fccid.io
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another brand affiliated with Substanbo - Calmdo.com - and a lot of other brands.
> 
> Have not discovered yet how Shenzhen Yingsuo Technology Co. relates to Substanbo.


Hello do you know the adresse to return the product please


----------



## laserdiscguy

tmpayne91 said:


> How’s the input lag on PS4?


The input lag was terrible until I switched to game mode, but once that was engaged it was fine. It seems about the same as my Samsung TV now.


----------



## laserdiscguy

pulp1 said:


> Are you using on a regular screen or wall for now? Would love someone to tell me how it is on just a wall cos that’s my only option right now, sadly.


It's not too bad on a wall actually, though imperfections will warp the image and too much ambient light will wash it out badly as you'd expect with any projector. When I get a chance I'll post a few pictures of what it looks like on a wall.


----------



## imhotep6

So I will add that I adjusted the projector and picture looks a little better. Did the first update and the audio out over arc is fixed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## woodyp

I have used the Bomaker for about a week without an ALR screen and now a few days with an ALR screen. I would highly recommend that you invest in a UST ALR screen to make the picture quality much more vibrant. In comparison to the Optoma short throw I have and the Xiaomi (VAVA clone?), I would say the Bomaker is noticeably sharper with the paired ALR screen. During the day, I am actually able to use the Bomaker with all the blinds open. I do have floor to ceiling windows, so the ambient light is much higher for me. This is a first for me since I historically have had to resort to blackout blinds. Now granted, you will not get absolute TV contrast levels, but for a projector, it is more than adequate. As the day progresses, the picture gets more vibrant as the sun shifts. My living room is west facing, so I have a lot more afternoon sunlight.

As for the ALR, I went with the 100" Vava fixed frame (someone linked it before). But here is the link, just in case. Amazon.com: VAVA ALR Projector Screen, 100-inch 16:9 Ceiling Light Rejecting Projection Screen for Ultra Short Throw Projector, 160°Wide Viewing Angle, Fixed Frame Screen for Home Theater, Boardroom: Electronics

I was a bit skeptical since most quality ALR screens will be in the 1500 range to start. I am so far impressed. The ALR was a bit more complex to assemble. I have assembled at least four different types of fixed frame screens. The Vava screen comes with tools and gloves for two people to stretch the screen appropriately from alternating sides. I am very satisfied with the ALR screen. Also, it has adjustable sliding tracks on the back, so you can adjust the height of the screen without having to drill new holes into the wall. That is a feature that I have only seen on a $2000 plus projection screen in the past. Do yourself a favor if you are going to go this route, get an ALR. Do not use a traditional screen. I did try the elite screen I was using before, and like many others, the light bounced right up to the ceiling. If you can go fixed mount vs. retractable, go fixed. If you do have to use a retractable, make sure you get a tension mount one. Do not get one of the cheap ones as it will degrade over time, and you will start noticing wrinkles, imperfections the more you retract it.

My projector score for the Bomaker:
Menu/Customizations
7.5 out of 10 for the menu and options. If they add the ability to adjust the image may be an 8.
If you use anything independent of the projector's built-in apps, you will not have any issues.
The built in apps are very sparse, and unless you sideload (which I am not even sure is allowed at the time of post, you won't have access to any Android apps. Plus, the version of Android is 6, so app compatibility may be limited even if it is open for 3rd party application installs.

Picture quality:
No ALR screen - I think the Xiaomi and Bomaker are pretty close, but the Bomaker is noticeably brighter. The Optoma is very washed out unless I close all the blinds, which was the main reason why I bought the Bomaker.
With the ALR, all three are very useful and competitive against daytime/ambient viewing. The Bomaker, for me, is the winner because of my floor to ceiling windows use case. If you have more traditional windows, your results may be a bit more even across the board between the three brands.

ALR screen adjustments.
This is where the Bomaker falls short of the other two. Although I do not advise using keystone correction, at least you have that option if you want to make sure your picture aligns perfectly with your screen borders. However, with a bit of persistence and patience, you can get the Bomaker to align reasonably well with the use of a couple of items. I find using adjustable monitor mounts have worked well. I bought these because you will need two. It came with two, they are glass, and each leg is adjustable independently. The projector housing is fairly large.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079FPT1VX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1




Uses:
HDMI - Apple TV and Nvidia Shield (for testing purposes)
HDMI2 - Xbox One X - on the game mode, it is on par, if not slightly more responsive than the Optoma. The input lag on the Xiaomi was so bad I ended up not using it for gaming at all.
Screencast - This is a quirky feature that is built-in. It comes with a UI with a QR code that sends you to an app to download on your phone. Once it has been installed, you have the option to cast directly from your phone. I don't use this feature much since both Apple TV and the Nvidia shield have casting capabilities built-in.

Build quality and noise:
The overall build quality is far nicer than both the Xiaomi and Optoma. The remote is very nicely made and has many metallic elements in the casing. This makes the remote feel very sturdy, and a bit bespoke, which is a nice bonus. The way it is designed, you can actually stand the remote up vertically. The Favorite button can be remapped to another function, but since everything else has a dedicated button, the only thing I could map was the Firefox app.

This projector is very quiet. I was pleasantly surprised by this, and I think this is attributed to the actual chassis size. It allows for more airflow and passive cooling without having fans kick in all the time.

Sound:

The sound is where this one suffers. It is very tinny sounding and not that impressive. However, it is doable if you have no other option. I would recommend a soundbar or a dedicated theater system. In all fairness, I would recommend the same for any projector/tv.

Bluetooth:

I have paired a couple of Bluetooth headphones and a keyboard to the projector. The keyboard was a bit more touchy, but once I could connect, I was able to type in Firefox.

Well, that's about it for my input on this projector. Feel free to reply or message me if you have any specific questions.


I hope this gives a bit more clarity from a real-world scenario.


----------



## pulp1

woodyp said:


> I have used the Bomaker for about a week without an ALR screen and now a few days with an ALR screen. I would highly recommend that you invest in a UST ALR screen to make the picture quality much more vibrant. In comparison to the Optoma short throw I have and the Xiaomi (VAVA clone?), I would say the Bomaker is noticeably sharper with the paired ALR screen. During the day, I am actually able to use the Bomaker with all the blinds open. I do have floor to ceiling windows, so the ambient light is much higher for me. This is a first for me since I historically have had to resort to blackout blinds. Now granted, you will not get absolute TV contrast levels, but for a projector, it is more than adequate. As the day progresses, the picture gets more vibrant as the sun shifts. My living room is west facing, so I have a lot more afternoon sunlight.
> 
> As for the ALR, I went with the 100" Vava fixed frame (someone linked it before). But here is the link, just in case. Amazon.com: VAVA ALR Projector Screen, 100-inch 16:9 Ceiling Light Rejecting Projection Screen for Ultra Short Throw Projector, 160°Wide Viewing Angle, Fixed Frame Screen for Home Theater, Boardroom: Electronics
> 
> I was a bit skeptical since most quality ALR screens will be in the 1500 range to start. I am so far impressed. The ALR was a bit more complex to assemble. I have assembled at least four different types of fixed frame screens. The Vava screen comes with tools and gloves for two people to stretch the screen appropriately from alternating sides. I am very satisfied with the ALR screen. Also, it has adjustable sliding tracks on the back, so you can adjust the height of the screen without having to drill new holes into the wall. That is a feature that I have only seen on a $2000 plus projection screen in the past. Do yourself a favor if you are going to go this route, get an ALR. Do not use a traditional screen. I did try the elite screen I was using before, and like many others, the light bounced right up to the ceiling. If you can go fixed mount vs. retractable, go fixed. If you do have to use a retractable, make sure you get a tension mount one. Do not get one of the cheap ones as it will degrade over time, and you will start noticing wrinkles, imperfections the more you retract it.
> 
> My projector score for the Bomaker:
> Menu/Customizations
> 7.5 out of 10 for the menu and options. If they add the ability to adjust the image may be an 8.
> If you use anything independent of the projector's built-in apps, you will not have any issues.
> The built in apps are very sparse, and unless you sideload (which I am not even sure is allowed at the time of post, you won't have access to any Android apps. Plus, the version of Android is 6, so app compatibility may be limited even if it is open for 3rd party application installs.
> 
> Picture quality:
> No ALR screen - I think the Xiaomi and Bomaker are pretty close, but the Bomaker is noticeably brighter. The Optoma is very washed out unless I close all the blinds, which was the main reason why I bought the Bomaker.
> With the ALR, all three are very useful and competitive against daytime/ambient viewing. The Bomaker, for me, is the winner because of my floor to ceiling windows use case. If you have more traditional windows, your results may be a bit more even across the board between the three brands.
> 
> ALR screen adjustments.
> This is where the Bomaker falls short of the other two. Although I do not advise using keystone correction, at least you have that option if you want to make sure your picture aligns perfectly with your screen borders. However, with a bit of persistence and patience, you can get the Bomaker to align reasonably well with the use of a couple of items.
> 
> Uses:
> HDMI - Apple TV and Nvidia Shield (for testing purposes)
> HDMI2 - Xbox One X - on the game mode, it is on par, if not slightly more responsive than the Optoma. The input lag on the Xiaomi was so bad I ended up not using it for gaming at all.
> Screencast - This is a quirky feature that is built-in. It comes with a UI with a QR code that sends you to an app to download on your phone. Once it has been installed, you have the option to cast directly from your phone. I don't use this feature much since both Apple TV and the Nvidia shield have casting capabilities built-in.
> 
> Build quality and noise:
> The overall build quality is far nicer than both the Xiaomi and Optoma. The remote is very nicely made and has many metallic elements in the casing. This makes the remote feel very sturdy, and a bit bespoke, which is a nice bonus. The way it is designed, you can actually stand the remote up vertically. The Favorite button can be remapped to another function, but since everything else has a dedicated button, the only thing I could map was the Firefox app.
> 
> This projector is very quiet. I was pleasantly surprised by this, and I think this is attributed to the actual chassis size. It allows for more airflow and passive cooling without having fans kick in all the time.
> 
> Sound:
> 
> The sound is where this one suffers. It is very tinny sounding and not that impressive. However, it is doable if you have no other option. I would recommend a soundbar or a dedicated theater system. In all fairness, I would recommend the same for any projector/tv.
> 
> Bluetooth:
> 
> I have paired a couple of Bluetooth headphones and a keyboard to the projector. The keyboard was a bit more touchy, but once I could connect, I was able to type in Firefox.
> 
> Well, that's about it for my input on this projector. Feel free to reply or message me if you have any specific questions.
> 
> 
> 
> I find using adjustable monitor mounts have worked well. I bought these because you will need two. It came with two, they are glass, and each leg is adjustable independently. The projector housing is fairly large.
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079FPT1VX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this gives a bit more clarity from a real-world scenario.


Nice review. Very helpful. Which Xiaomi were you comparing?


----------



## spencerwaltz

Just set this up with my vividstorm electric screen and it is amazing. 

I seem to be having two odd problems 

1. It doesn't recognise a USB stick.
2. We just tested Kong: Skull Island and Possessor and the sound was amazing but I couldn't get any sound at all with The Last Jedi, Annihilation or Into The Spiderverse (Spiderverse was giving me sound on the menu screen but not the film) We have the Samsung Harmon Kardon Dolby Atmos soundbar.

Anyone have any ideas what I am doing wrong?


----------



## imhotep6

spencerwaltz said:


> Just set this up with my vividstorm electric screen and it is amazing.
> 
> I seem to be having two odd problems
> 
> 1. It doesn't recognise a USB stick.
> 2. We just tested Kong: Skull Island and Possessor and the sound was amazing but I couldn't get any sound at all with The Last Jedi, Annihilation or Into The Spiderverse (Spiderverse was giving me sound on the menu screen but not the film) We have the Samsung Harmon Kardon Dolby Atmos soundbar.
> 
> Anyone have any ideas what I am doing wrong?


Did you do the update? After I did the update sound worked great

Sent from my SM-F916U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## phchrono

has there been a new update since? what is your version? Thanks


----------



## geertm2

spencerwaltz said:


> Just set this up with my vividstorm electric screen and it is amazing.
> 
> I seem to be having two odd problems
> 
> 1. It doesn't recognise a USB stick.
> 2. We just tested Kong: Skull Island and Possessor and the sound was amazing but I couldn't get any sound at all with The Last Jedi, Annihilation or Into The Spiderverse (Spiderverse was giving me sound on the menu screen but not the film) We have the Samsung Harmon Kardon Dolby Atmos soundbar.
> 
> Anyone have any ideas what I am doing wrong?


1. Usually for this kind of thing the USB stick must be formatted with FAT16 or FAT32. Make sure that is the case.
2. Did you choose the DTS sountrack? DTS is by default disabled in the projector settings.


----------



## woodyp

pulp1 said:


> Nice review. Very helpful. Which Xiaomi were you comparing?


I was using the Mi Laser 150 Global edition





Mi Laser Projector 150'' - Xiaomi United States


Shop online from Xiaomi United States official site for Xiaomi Mi Laser Projector 150"comes with Dolby Stereo speakers. It is 150 inches, built-in Android TV and woks with Google Assistant.




www.mi.com


----------



## lilbuddha

woodyp said:


> I have used the Bomaker for about a week without an ALR screen and now a few days with an ALR screen. I would highly recommend that you invest in a UST ALR screen to make the picture quality much more vibrant. In comparison to the Optoma short throw I have and the Xiaomi (VAVA clone?), I would say the Bomaker is noticeably sharper with the paired ALR screen. During the day, I am actually able to use the Bomaker with all the blinds open. I do have floor to ceiling windows, so the ambient light is much higher for me. This is a first for me since I historically have had to resort to blackout blinds. Now granted, you will not get absolute TV contrast levels, but for a projector, it is more than adequate. As the day progresses, the picture gets more vibrant as the sun shifts. My living room is west facing, so I have a lot more afternoon sunlight.
> 
> As for the ALR, I went with the 100" Vava fixed frame (someone linked it before). But here is the link, just in case. Amazon.com: VAVA ALR Projector Screen, 100-inch 16:9 Ceiling Light Rejecting Projection Screen for Ultra Short Throw Projector, 160°Wide Viewing Angle, Fixed Frame Screen for Home Theater, Boardroom: Electronics
> 
> I was a bit skeptical since most quality ALR screens will be in the 1500 range to start. I am so far impressed. The ALR was a bit more complex to assemble. I have assembled at least four different types of fixed frame screens. The Vava screen comes with tools and gloves for two people to stretch the screen appropriately from alternating sides. I am very satisfied with the ALR screen. Also, it has adjustable sliding tracks on the back, so you can adjust the height of the screen without having to drill new holes into the wall. That is a feature that I have only seen on a $2000 plus projection screen in the past. Do yourself a favor if you are going to go this route, get an ALR. Do not use a traditional screen. I did try the elite screen I was using before, and like many others, the light bounced right up to the ceiling. If you can go fixed mount vs. retractable, go fixed. If you do have to use a retractable, make sure you get a tension mount one. Do not get one of the cheap ones as it will degrade over time, and you will start noticing wrinkles, imperfections the more you retract it.
> 
> My projector score for the Bomaker:
> Menu/Customizations
> 7.5 out of 10 for the menu and options. If they add the ability to adjust the image may be an 8.
> If you use anything independent of the projector's built-in apps, you will not have any issues.
> The built in apps are very sparse, and unless you sideload (which I am not even sure is allowed at the time of post, you won't have access to any Android apps. Plus, the version of Android is 6, so app compatibility may be limited even if it is open for 3rd party application installs.
> 
> Picture quality:
> No ALR screen - I think the Xiaomi and Bomaker are pretty close, but the Bomaker is noticeably brighter. The Optoma is very washed out unless I close all the blinds, which was the main reason why I bought the Bomaker.
> With the ALR, all three are very useful and competitive against daytime/ambient viewing. The Bomaker, for me, is the winner because of my floor to ceiling windows use case. If you have more traditional windows, your results may be a bit more even across the board between the three brands.
> 
> ALR screen adjustments.
> This is where the Bomaker falls short of the other two. Although I do not advise using keystone correction, at least you have that option if you want to make sure your picture aligns perfectly with your screen borders. However, with a bit of persistence and patience, you can get the Bomaker to align reasonably well with the use of a couple of items. I find using adjustable monitor mounts have worked well. I bought these because you will need two. It came with two, they are glass, and each leg is adjustable independently. The projector housing is fairly large.
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079FPT1VX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uses:
> HDMI - Apple TV and Nvidia Shield (for testing purposes)
> HDMI2 - Xbox One X - on the game mode, it is on par, if not slightly more responsive than the Optoma. The input lag on the Xiaomi was so bad I ended up not using it for gaming at all.
> Screencast - This is a quirky feature that is built-in. It comes with a UI with a QR code that sends you to an app to download on your phone. Once it has been installed, you have the option to cast directly from your phone. I don't use this feature much since both Apple TV and the Nvidia shield have casting capabilities built-in.
> 
> Build quality and noise:
> The overall build quality is far nicer than both the Xiaomi and Optoma. The remote is very nicely made and has many metallic elements in the casing. This makes the remote feel very sturdy, and a bit bespoke, which is a nice bonus. The way it is designed, you can actually stand the remote up vertically. The Favorite button can be remapped to another function, but since everything else has a dedicated button, the only thing I could map was the Firefox app.
> 
> This projector is very quiet. I was pleasantly surprised by this, and I think this is attributed to the actual chassis size. It allows for more airflow and passive cooling without having fans kick in all the time.
> 
> Sound:
> 
> The sound is where this one suffers. It is very tinny sounding and not that impressive. However, it is doable if you have no other option. I would recommend a soundbar or a dedicated theater system. In all fairness, I would recommend the same for any projector/tv.
> 
> Bluetooth:
> 
> I have paired a couple of Bluetooth headphones and a keyboard to the projector. The keyboard was a bit more touchy, but once I could connect, I was able to type in Firefox.
> 
> Well, that's about it for my input on this projector. Feel free to reply or message me if you have any specific questions.
> 
> 
> I hope this gives a bit more clarity from a real-world scenario.


Thanks for sharing your obsevations. I agree with most. Btw, the fan is always on for you correct? I've never had it go higher than the lowest level but seems to never turn off either.


----------



## lilbuddha

zuksis said:


> If I had to rate the projector out of a 10, I would give it a solid 8. At below 2000 dollars (when I purchased it) it was practically a steal for the hardware that you are given (assuming it is true that it is a tri laser projector). I will admit that the price did have a effect on me when deciding to keep it, but as the old saying goes, "you get what you pay for". Even though you get the tri laser, you also get a projector that essentially come way off color and over saturated. This is not a beginner friendly projector.
> 
> Some goods side to it would be:
> Price
> Brightness (my previous 2500 Ansi Lumen projector is no where near as bright as this one)
> Color (definitely has some eye popping color)
> High level of control over greys and colors
> Eye safety feature (some people hate it, but I have a baby coming soon and I would rather have a slightly too sensitive sensor than not sensitive enough)
> 
> Cons:
> Comes with greys and colors completely out of whack. You definitely have to calibrate it to make this projector worth it.
> 
> The UI is pretty butt. they try to compensate for that by providing a 4K roku stick. Makes me miss the LG projector UI.
> 
> The Oversaturation. Right out of the box most colors were oversaturated, some to the point of blown out. I worked really hard to fix the over saturation, but even after calibrating it seems like some pictures that hit a bright orange/yellow orange ends up still looking just slightly oversaturated. I can tell I'm a total amateur at calibrating so it makes me hopeful that I might be able to fix that with more practice with the colorimeter.
> 
> Service. Lets be honest to ourselves, cause the brand is so new/unknown, its hard to tell what service your going to get.
> 
> 
> During the time of purchase I also purchased the Optoma P2 to compare. Sound wise the P2 was better and Color Accuracy out of the box was definitely on point with the P2, but I will say it didnt feel like the P2 had the "POP" with the colors that the bomaker had. After a few days I returned the P2.
> 
> In the end, I decided on keeping the projector. The price made my wife happy, the colors are very good now, and I even bought a portable screen so that we can have outdoor movie night with the friends during the pandemic (easy to keep 6 ft distance from eachother when your screen is 120").
> 
> I did recalibrate my screen since the last time I posted them (made some mistakes with the previous one that made darks too dark), I'll need to grab the new numbers and repost.


Yes please share your calibrations! even just pictures of the menu would be welcome


----------



## lilbuddha

phchrono said:


> has there been a new update since? what is your version? Thanks


I just got the update the day before yesterday - no idea what the changelog is or where I could find it.


----------



## lilbuddha

hifiand3dfan said:


> I hope you are right but I strongly doubt it. What insights do you have that you can "guarantee" it? There is no 3-laser hisense available in the western hemisphere yet as far as I heard.
> Dell,Asus,and so on do more than BoMaker from what I see in their other product portfolio.
> First of all - I do not know what you mean with "laser chip", as the probably most relevant part is from TI.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bomaker Polaris 4K ultra short throw laser projector review
> 
> 
> A newcomer in the world of projectors wants to make a splash
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.techradar.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> claims that HiSense is the OEM - not just of a laser chip.
> Must at least also apply to the chip handling the HDMI.
> I mean no offense, but aim to challenge a bit here, that we question more what this device actually is and not just believe their marketing.
> 
> I am digging a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Company Search Subscription Service
> 
> 
> Professional Company and Officer Search Subscription Service
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.bizapedia.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BOMAKER Trademark of Shenzhen Yingsuo Technology Co., Ltd. - Registration Number 5442170 - Serial Number 87463594 :: Justia Trademarks -
> Shenzhen Yingsuo Technology Co., Ltd.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.linkedin.com/company/substanbo/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BOMAKER - Substanbo Innovations Technology Limited Trademark Registration
> 
> 
> Trademark registration for Substanbo Innovations Technology Limited. The mark consists of two parts.The top is designed by the cochlea and sound waves. The Bottom is the stylized characters
> 
> 
> 
> 
> uspto.report
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://opencorporates.com/companies/us_co/20151326169
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Company Search Subscription Service
> 
> 
> Professional Company and Officer Search Subscription Service
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.bizapedia.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overseas companies gaming Amazon’s ratings system through fraud, Cleveland-area company says in lawsuit
> 
> 
> A Cuyahoga County auto accessories company said in a lawsuit that its business on Amazon is being harmed through its competition’s manipulation of the online retail giant’s website and algorithms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.cleveland.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A brief look regarding FCC:
> 
> About the remote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BRF4K Remote Controller by GuangDong Substanbo
> 
> 
> Get details about GuangDong Substanbo Technology Co., Ltd.'s FCC application (2AS9D-BRF4K) for Remote Controller, frequency information, user manuals, and more. Request notifications about updates to this FCC id.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> electric.garden
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2508, Building 4, Tianan Cloud Park Phase II,Bantian Street, Longgang District, Shenzhen, China
> is the address of the entity filing for the FCC. That does not mean they have no space elsewhere of course.
> So, yes, at least that device was engineered by the company.
> 
> What is interesting that this is not the information on the device is not for the actual projector, but the FCC is for a component. That limits exposure in terms of filing. Not unusual but does make research a bit more difficult. Not sure if laser devices of this class need to have a special filing in the US and where to look for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FCC ID 2AOKI-WFM668UWP1 Wireless Module&Bluetooth; Module by Sichuan AI-Link Technology Co.,Ltd.
> 
> 
> FCC ID application submitted by Sichuan AI-Link Technology Co.,Ltd. for Wireless Module&Bluetooth; Module for FCC ID 2AOKI-WFM668UWP1. Approved Frequencies, User Manuals, Photos, and Wireless Reports.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fccid.io
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another brand affiliated with Substanbo - Calmdo.com - and a lot of other brands.
> 
> Have not discovered yet how Shenzhen Yingsuo Technology Co. relates to Substanbo.


Actually it seems Hisense had announced their new "tricroma" line of projectors which I'm assuming uses similar guts but surprising that bomaker beat them to the US market...


----------



## woodyp

here are a few photos with the the Vava ALR screen adjusted and calibrated (still a work in progress). Some of the photos are with ambient light on and all the photos are with the blinds wide open.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

woodyp said:


> I was using the Mi Laser 150 Global edition
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mi Laser Projector 150'' - Xiaomi United States
> 
> 
> Shop online from Xiaomi United States official site for Xiaomi Mi Laser Projector 150"comes with Dolby Stereo speakers. It is 150 inches, built-in Android TV and woks with Google Assistant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.mi.com


So the non 4K neutered Global version from 2017. Let's not confuse that with the 2019-2020 versions that are 4K, have 3D and are much better in every spec.


----------



## woodyp

Casey_Bryson said:


> So the non 4K neutered Global version from 2017. Let's not confuse that with the 2019-2020 versions that are 4K, have 3D, and are much better in every spec.


I"m sure it is, however, I only have the 2017 model and the 2019 model of the PX1 by Optoma. I am not going to go out and buy the 2021 models of each to do a comparison. I am only going to compare with what I already have been using for my purposes. The feature set of the newer Xiaomi Mija 4k and WeMax were not compelling enough for me to upgrade, due to the experience with having to flash the original to enable google play (which was still limited) and to enable English menus which is why I ended up going with the Optoma PX1 instead of the Mija 4k/WeMax.


----------



## woodyp

lilbuddha said:


> Thanks for sharing your obsevations. I agree with most. Btw, the fan is always on for you correct? I've never had it go higher than the lowest level but seems to never turn off either.


It is on, but it is not audible at all unless I stick my ear near the unit. It's definitely way quieter than the Xiaomi, and the Optoma is about somewhere in the middle.


----------



## aronsonstack

Loicparis said:


> Hello do you know the adresse to return the product please


Wouldn't be wiser to contact Bomaker directly? You may need to do a RMA.


----------



## pulp1

laserdiscguy said:


> It's not too bad on a wall actually, though imperfections will warp the image and too much ambient light will wash it out badly as you'd expect with any projector. When I get a chance I'll post a few pictures of what it looks like on a wall.


That would be awesome, thanks!


----------



## bradk14

phchrono said:


> has there been a new update since? what is your version? Thanks


there’s only been one firmware update which was released before they started shipping


----------



## pulp1

aronsonstack said:


> Wouldn't be wiser to contact Bomaker directly? You may need to do a RMA.


Hey, did you keep this or the VAVA in the end?


----------



## Casey_Bryson

woodyp said:


> I"m sure it is, however, I only have the 2017 model and the 2019 model of the PX1 by Optoma. I am not going to go out and buy the 2021 models of each to do a comparison. I am only going to compare with what I already have been using for my purposes. The feature set of the newer Xiaomi Mija 4k and WeMax were not compelling enough for me to upgrade, due to the experience with having to flash the original to enable google play (which was still limited) and to enable English menus which is why I ended up going with the Optoma PX1 instead of the Mija 4k/WeMax.


Oh sure I meant nothing against you, I was just making sure it was clear that you weren't comparing the latest models since differentiating them by name is difficult and easily confused.


----------



## phchrono

bradk14 said:


> there’s only been one firmware update which was released before they started shipping


Thanks bradk14


----------



## aronsonstack

pulp1 said:


> Hey, did you keep this or the VAVA in the end?


I kept the Vava. I was just searching for greener pastures at the $2k budget, but ultimately decided if it ain't broke, don't fix it. It needed to be obviously better for me to return the Vava, and it just wasn't despite trying many calibrations shared around here. But I think I wouldn't pay $2800 either for Vava. I would probably stay with Bomaker at $1859. But I got the Vava during BF for $1950. Hopefully Vava will last me till $2 to $3k is the standard for even the big boys like Samsung, Sony, LG, etc.


----------



## rite2vinoth

Sometimes I have audio dropping out for a few seconds or up to a minute and then returns automatically. The soundbar is connected to the HDMI ARC port. Tried changing the HDMI cables and to the other HDMI port as well, nothing works. Did anyone have issues like that? Any suggestions to resolve welcome.


----------



## spencerwaltz

imhotep6 said:


> Did you do the update? After I did the update sound worked great
> 
> Sent from my SM-F916U1 using Tapatalk


Yeah have performed the update and it is still only playing audio from certain discs.


----------



## bradk14

spencerwaltz said:


> Yeah have performed the update and it is still only playing audio from certain discs.


i don’t know if it’s related but I had issues getting Atmos audio to play with the appletv, turns out the issue is having the playback device plugged directly into the polaris. Once I connected it through the soundbar, it worked fine.


----------



## spencerwaltz

bradk14 said:


> i don’t know if it’s related but I had issues getting Atmos audio to play with the appletv, turns out the issue is having the playback device plugged directly into the polaris. Once I connected it through the soundbar, it worked fine.


I am connected via the soundbar, it is becoming really frustrating.


----------



## pulp1

aronsonstack said:


> I kept the Vava. I was just searching for greener pastures at the $2k budget, but ultimately decided if it ain't broke, don't fix it. It needed to be obviously better for me to return the Vava, and it just wasn't despite trying many calibrations shared around here. But I think I wouldn't pay $2800 either for Vava. I would probably stay with Bomaker at $1859. But I got the Vava during BF for $1950. Hopefully Vava will last me till $2 to $3k is the standard for even the big boys like Samsung, Sony, LG, etc.


Yeah, sadly I missed out on both deals - VAVA and Bomaker, because I wasn't looking back then. VAVA is now $2500 and Bo is $2350 with a screen that you prob cant use for it. Still considering though. Did the VAVA present people this many problems? Seems like it was pretty plug-in and play compared to Bomaker right now?


----------



## aronsonstack

pulp1 said:


> Yeah, I missed out on both deals - VAVA and Bomaker. VAVA is now $2500 best and Bo is $2350 with a screen that you prob cant use for it. Still considering though. Did the VAVA present people this many issues? Seems like it was pretty plug in play compared to Bomaker?


Yes, better out the box pictures and easier set up with 8 pt keystone and electric focus features already in place. I also started using some pretty good calibrations shared in the Vava thread. I had posted pictures a few pages back. Bomaker Polaris 4K Ultra Short Throw Laser TV The red/magenta push is less glaring in person, and if you don't have the Vava next to it, but it is still there. When I put the projectors side by side, then it became glaring. So the way the brain and the eyes see the colors are different when you see each projector separately. I didn't think Bomaker was that bad, then I put them side by side with 2 fire sticks and fired up a movie and the difference was obvious. So there is a lot of calibration you need to do with Bomaker.

You'd have to wait around BF for Vava deals. Bomaker seems to be doing these deals randomly. That's another thing that was weird to me. I got it first and at a lower price than some of their backers at Indiegogo, who paid more and still had to wait. That is such a diss to their backers. That's not my problem, but it gave me an uneasy feeling about how this company will treat their customers. On top of all the calibration work you have to do, mine came with a defect, so if I decided to keep it, I would have to return Vava, as well as do a replacement for Bomaker. So despite the intriguing tri-laser potential, I just said forget it, leave well enough alone.


----------



## pulp1

aronsonstack said:


> Yes, better out the box pictures and easier set up with 8 pt keystone already in place. I also started using some pretty good calibrations shared in the Vava thread. You'd have to wait around BF for Vava deals. Bomaker seems to be doing these deals randomly. That's another thing that was weird to me. I got it first and at a lower price than some of their backers at Indiegogo, who paid more and still had to wait. That is such a diss to their backers. That's not my problem, but it gave me an uneasy feeling about how this company will treat their customers. On top of all the calibration work you have to do, mine came with a defect, so if I decided to keep it, I would have to return Vava, as well as do a replacement for Bomaker. I just said forget it, leave well enough alone.


Yeah, there is definitely something a bit off with this company. Along with what you said about IGG which I think is really bad, their support is very questionable. They advertise support phone numbers but none of them work. In fact, I was told there is no support number, so why do they pretend there is? It's also slightly disconcerting that none of the sellers on Alibaba have heard of it. Which, being Chinese made with HiSense lasers, I find a little odd. Despite this though, I took the plunge and ordered one on Amazon. I figure with the free returns I may as well check it out.

But now I’m rethinking. I only have a 75" wall to project onto, I just figured buying a UST made sense in the long term cos I could go bigger without having to buy a new TV. But maybe buying a reasonable 75" such as the TLC 535 for $1000 and saving the money makes more sense. USTs would probably be cheaper and more reliable by the time I need to replace it anyway.

Incidentally, how small can the VAVA go? I understand it needs to be 3.3" from the wall to project an 80" image. They say it can go smaller, but do not really recommend it as there is no room for proper air ventilation. But surely we're talking mm to get it to 75"? What do you think?


----------



## tmpayne91

spencerwaltz said:


> I am connected via the soundbar, it is becoming really frustrating.


 I’m using an Apple TV 4K that’s plugged into my avr and I have no issues.


----------



## aronsonstack

pulp1 said:


> Yeah, there is definitely something a bit off with this company. Along with what you said about IGG which I think is really bad, their support is very questionable. They advertise support phone numbers but none of them work. In fact, I was told there is no support number, so why do they pretend there is? It's also slightly disconcerting that none of the sellers on Alibaba have heard of it. Which, being Chinese made with HiSense lasers, I find a little odd. Despite this though, I took the plunge and ordered one on Amazon. I figure with the free returns I may as well check it out.
> 
> But now I’m rethinking. I only have a 75" wall to project onto, I just figured buying a UST made sense in the long term cos I could go bigger without having to buy a new TV. But maybe buying a reasonable 75" such as the TLC 535 for $1000 and saving the money makes more sense. USTs would probably be cheaper and more reliable by the time I need to replace it anyway.
> 
> Incidentally, how small can the VAVA go? I understand it needs to be 3.3" from the wall to project an 80" image. They say it can go smaller, but do not really recommend it as there is no room for proper air ventilation. But surely we're talking mm to get it to 75"? What do you think?


I never tested how small it can go, but from what I read, 80 inch. I actually contacted Hisense directly and asked about this Bomaker, and they never responded.


----------



## blazed

woodyp said:


> here are a few photos with the the Vava ALR screen adjusted and calibrated (still a work in progress). Some of the photos are with ambient light on and all the photos are with the blinds wide open.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3088352
> 
> 
> View attachment 3088351
> 
> 
> View attachment 3088353


Is there anyway to get rid of the light borders around the image?


----------



## woodyp

blazed said:


> Is there anyway to get rid of the light borders around the image?


I have a custom bias led lighting kit ordered from the UK to install around the screen. That should resolve any light bleed that occurs.


----------



## imhotep6

So quick update on mine. I brought downstairs where I have a black white wall and a level table. Hooked up to my Apple TV 4K. Crystal clear image I all corners but still needs to be adjusted and leveled a little. I used the user profile and that decreases the over saturation. Only problem is audio will not work with Apple movies. Apple Music audio works, as does YouTube and YouTube tv. This may be a keeper if they fix the audio issue. Since I’m moving in two weeks and will get a ALR screen holding off final judgement.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## geertm2

There are no known audio issues with this projector.
Try this on your Apple TV (found using google, same problem):

If you have a stereo (two speakers) setup, then configure Apple TV to output audio as a stereo signal.
Settings﹥Video and Audio﹥Audio Format﹥Change Format﹥On
Settings﹥Video and Audio﹥Audio Format﹥New Format﹥Stereo


----------



## hifiand3dfan

pulp1 said:


> But now I’m rethinking. I only have a 75" wall to project onto, I just figured buying a UST made sense in the long term cos I could go bigger without having to buy a new TV. But maybe buying a reasonable 75" such as the TLC 535 for $1000 and saving the money makes more sense. USTs would probably be cheaper and more reliable by the time I need to replace it anyway.


How soon until you MAY go bigger? My thought: In 2 years this may be around $1000. Get a 75" TV now and then in the future, get a projector when you know you will need i and can use it.
Me? We splurged on a 85" TV for regular viewing - AND - on a 180" projector screen for movie nights.


----------



## hifiand3dfan

So, finally got the 180" screen (non-tensioned) and the Bomaker together.
Those are non-calibrated pictures. But note that you cannot calibrate sharpness/focus in any way.
Before everybody screams "but it is a UST projector" - Bomaker advertises it in their product info to be up to 200" screens. So you should be able to have reasonable expectations as to color uniformity, sharpness, geometry and so on up to that screen size.
In the pictures attached: please forget about the colors - there is no visible tint to the naked eye. But pay attention to distance from screen and level from screen for that distance, and pay attention to blurriness and the "red shadow" below white surfaces.
And the curved straight lines due to the lens.
Overall test setup. This is a 180" screen and a pretty high ceiling. This is the built-in test pattern.









Red "shadow" (here at center cross)









Sharpness at lower middle "notch"








Right middle notch:










Testpattern from Youtube (shot without ambient light - tint is not visible to the naked eye).








Zoom in the white sharpness pattern - note the red "shadow" below the white lines:








Black pattern to compare









Sharpness: Lower middle circle (sharpest spot in the image I think)








Upper right circle to compare - to me way too blurry:









Dot pattern:




















Readability of xbox-home-screen info in upper right corner:










A few takeaways:
Image is very blurry in the corners (if worse than other USTs or better - I do not know - but again, my point is that this is advertised to support 200" screens).
Visible "red shadow" even in sharp areas. Not sure if it is a fluke unit or everybody has that problem.
You likely CANNOT ceiling mount even in most rooms that are considered "high ceiling" when you want to achieve 180". The projected picture would start "too low" and probably hit the floor.
And to put the projector in regular front projection in front of the screen pretty much means putting the projector on the floor. 

I would say up to 120" you are probably OK like with other USTs. 150" already a stretch. 180" does at least not meet my expectations. Forget about 200"


----------



## hifiand3dfan

aronsonstack said:


> They only made a little over $500k on their indiegogo crowdsourcing. I don't know if that's an indication of anything. Do you think that should be a concern?


It is not uncommon to only use Indiegogo or Kickstarter as a vehicle to get attention - essentially a glorified preorder/marketing campaign. 
The company to me seems to be a bit "stretched thin" with no clear focus. Mostly relabeling generic items found at various Chinese manufacturers? The Polaris story certainly is at least a little bit more than that as they have a proper FCC filing for the remote on their own merit. Maybe Hisense uses them as a trial run for the US market?


----------



## hifiand3dfan

Loicparis said:


> Hello do you know the adresse to return the product please


No. I mean, I have various addresses of them that I googled - but to initiate a return you need a RMA. Where did you buy it from? If in the US and bought through Amazon - it is easy. Contact the seller first. If you are in Germany, and you find an out-of-the-box quality issue, you should be well protected in the first 6 months at least.


----------



## woodyp

hifiand3dfan said:


> So, finally got the 180" screen (non-tensioned) and the Bomaker together.
> Those are non-calibrated pictures. But note that you cannot calibrate sharpness/focus in any way.
> Before everybody screams "but it is a UST projector" - Bomaker advertises it in their product info to be up to 200" screens. So you should be able to have reasonable expectations as to color uniformity, sharpness, geometry and so on up to that screen size.
> In the pictures attached: please forget about the colors - there is no visible tint to the naked eye. But pay attention to distance from screen and level from screen for that distance, and pay attention to blurriness and the "red shadow" below white surfaces.
> And the curved straight lines due to the lens.
> Overall test setup. This is a 180" screen and a pretty high ceiling. This is the built-in test pattern.
> View attachment 3090126
> 
> 
> Red "shadow" (here at center cross)
> View attachment 3090129
> 
> 
> Sharpness at lower middle "notch"
> View attachment 3090130
> 
> Right middle notch:
> View attachment 3090131
> 
> 
> 
> Testpattern from Youtube (shot without ambient light - tint is not visible to the naked eye).
> View attachment 3090132
> 
> Zoom in the white sharpness pattern - note the red "shadow" below the white lines:
> View attachment 3090133
> 
> Black pattern to compare
> View attachment 3090134
> 
> 
> Sharpness: Lower middle circle (sharpest spot in the image I think)
> View attachment 3090135
> 
> Upper right circle to compare - to me way too blurry:
> View attachment 3090136
> 
> 
> Dot pattern:
> View attachment 3090137
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3090138
> 
> 
> 
> Readability of xbox-home-screen info in upper right corner:
> View attachment 3090140
> 
> 
> 
> A few takeaways:
> Image is very blurry in the corners (if worse than other USTs or better - I do not know - but again, my point is that this is advertised to support 200" screens).
> Visible "red shadow" even in sharp areas. Not sure if it is a fluke unit or everybody has that problem.
> You likely CANNOT ceiling mount even in most rooms that are considered "high ceiling" when you want to achieve 180". The projected picture would start "too low" and probably hit the floor.
> And to put the projector in regular front projection in front of the screen pretty much means putting the projector on the floor.
> 
> I would say up to 120" you are probably OK like with other USTs. 150" already a stretch. 180" does at least not meet my expectations. Forget about 200"



What is the make and model of your screen? I am also curious about expanding up to a 150" but the screen I want is stupidly expensive as it has to be custom made. I was quoted in the neighborhood of $8 - 10K just for the screen alone. Yikes. I am looking at ALR fix mount screens so that could be a major contributing factor to the price as "normal" sizes (e.g., 100 - 120" are in the $1000 - $2500 range).


----------



## IanLaurie

phchrono said:


> Hi, I had already on my side set as standard. Thanks again for the HDR settings. Regarding your first SDR settings, were you able to go deeper into them? I tried to apply the HDR setting on the SDR but I prefer rendering in sport mode for now. Thanks to you


I do know I have modified them further, but I won’t be home for a couple weeks. Will update then.


----------



## hifiand3dfan

woodyp said:


> What is the make and model of your screen? I am also curious about expanding up to a 150" but the screen I want is stupidly expensive as it has to be custom made. I was quoted in the neighborhood of $8 - 10K just for the screen alone. Yikes. I am looking at ALR fix mount screens so that could be a major contributing factor to the price as "normal" sizes (e.g., 100 - 120" are in the $1000 - $2500 range).


I needed an electric screen since the wall has windows behind the screen and for regular viewing I use a TV. It is not really suitable for UST due to no ALR but more importantly it is not tensioned. However, I was not ready to pay $4000 or more for a screen or whatever that would cost.


https://www.amazon.com/Elite-Screens-Spectrum-180-inch-Diag/dp/B009FTWJ3S


paid around $1100 for it shipped including tax.


----------



## Loicparis

[QUOTE = "hifiand3dfan, message: 60492322, membre: 8371591"]
Non. Je veux dire, j'en ai plusieurs adresses que j'ai recherchées sur Google - mais pour lancer un retour, vous avez besoin d'un RMA. Où l'avez-vous acheté? Si aux États-Unis et acheté via Amazon - c'est facile. Contactez d'abord le vendeur. Si vous êtes en Allemagne et que vous trouvez un problème de qualité prêt à l'emploi, vous devriez être bien protégé au moins au cours des 6 premiers mois.
[/CITATION]
RMA impossible d'avoir un retour en contactant bomaker (communication 0, il utilise plusieurs personnes sans aucune réponse concrète) car j ai commande avec IGG! C est une arnaque et je cherche à trouver une solution!


----------



## Loicparis

[QUOTE = "aronsonstack, message: 60480901, membre: 7697334"]
Ne serait-il pas plus sage de contacter directement Bomaker? Vous devrez peut-être faire une RMA.
[/CITATION]
J ai contacte bomaker et ne font pas de RMA mais si vous avez une solution volontier


----------



## tmpayne91

Got my Xbox series x today right before I had to leave for work. I’ll update once I play something on it. I’m just going to run this projector until the big name companies come down from their 6000 price range.


----------



## tmpayne91

OK so I have not played any fast reaction time FPS online. Keep in mind I have been a lifelong PC gamer and have grown up on unreal tournament and quake. I really have no complaints and I do not sense much input lag at least nothing that bothers me playing immortals phoenix rising. I have no problem doing combos and quick reaction time attacks. It looks great on a massive screen and runs very well.


----------



## hifiand3dfan

Loicparis said:


> [QUOTE = "hifiand3dfan, message: 60492322, membre: 8371591"]
> Non. Je veux dire, j'en ai plusieurs adresses que j'ai recherchées sur Google - mais pour lancer un retour, vous avez besoin d'un RMA. Où l'avez-vous acheté? Si aux États-Unis et acheté via Amazon - c'est facile. Contactez d'abord le vendeur. Si vous êtes en Allemagne et que vous trouvez un problème de qualité prêt à l'emploi, vous devriez être bien protégé au moins au cours des 6 premiers mois.
> [/CITATION]
> RMA impossible d'avoir un retour en contactant bomaker (communication 0, il utilise plusieurs personnes sans aucune réponse concrète) car j ai commande avec IGG! C est une arnaque et je cherche à trouver une solution!


Pardon my french? I have a bit of a "déjà vu" here but I am sorry, I do not know how our interaction ended up in french.


----------



## Loicparis

sorry i try to ask my right for Return but they don‘t Care and do it nothing , the Bild is not sharp , support can you forget, I can not used and RMA you can forget! Really shame when you support and service not here 😞


----------



## Meihk

Anybody getting an updating Amp information notification intermittently? It's kind of annoying. I also have some gamma issues with PC connected in HDR so I switched back to SDR. Can't adjust gamma on the projector when in HDR on PC. Anybody else having these issues?


----------



## Chefreyb

Just got my projector today. Have it at about 120 inches directly on a beige wall because I’m waiting for my alr screen. This thing looks really good out of the box. Haven’t touched a menu setting and am super happy already, using an Apple TV 4K. Coming from a 4k 75inch Samsung q8 that was calibrated. The red hues are def not dominant in real life but are a from the camera, so won’t post any pics as of now, maybe after I get my screen.


----------



## hifiand3dfan

Loicparis said:


> sorry i try to ask my right for Return but they don‘t Care and do it nothing , the Bild is not sharp , support can you forget, I can not used and RMA you can forget! Really shame when you support and service not here 😞


Where did you buy it from? Bomaker directly or through Amazon?
They are probably mostly as Chinese New Year shuts down business in China for about 2 weeks. After February 19 people will be back mostly.


----------



## tmpayne91

I’m loving it playing with the Xbox SX. Waiting for some more games to come out I haven’t played though lol


----------



## bradk14

Meihk said:


> Anybody getting an updating Amp information notification intermittently? It's kind of annoying.


I seem to get it shortly after powering on / switching inputs. it pops up once for a second or two and that's it


----------



## grimslade

I’m getting updating AMP information. It’s slightly irritating. To the fellow above with an untensioned 180” screen—there is no way you’re going to get good results without at least some kind of tab tensioning. And obviously a fixed screen would be better but I understand that’s not an option for you. It isn’t for me either but I just switched to a tab tension and it’s worlds better. I would like an ALR but I don’t want to spend as much as I just dropped on the projector for that right now. 


Meihk said:


> Anybody getting an updating Amp information notification intermittently? It's kind of annoying. I also have some gamma issues with PC connected in HDR so I switched back to SDR. Can't adjust gamma on the projector when in HDR on PC. Anybody else having these issues?


----------



## dbpaddler

Loicparis said:


> sorry i try to ask my right for Return but they don‘t Care and do it nothing , the Bild is not sharp , support can you forget, I can not used and RMA you can forget! Really shame when you support and service not here


I ordered on Amazon. No issue getting an rma and dropping it at ups. So if anyone sees a used like new pop up, it could be mine and don't hesitate getting it if it's a deal.

Had no issues. I just couldn't make it work in my situation. Will probably end up with the LG regular throw laser. 

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk


----------



## laserdiscguy

pulp1 said:


> That would be awesome, thanks!


Sorry for the delay. Here's a few photos of it projected onto a lightly painted wall.


----------



## hifiand3dfan

grimslade said:


> I’m getting updating AMP information. It’s slightly irritating. To the fellow above with an untensioned 180” screen—there is no way you’re going to get good results without at least some kind of tab tensioning. And obviously a fixed screen would be better but I understand that’s not an option for you. It isn’t for me either but I just switched to a tab tension and it’s worlds better. I would like an ALR but I don’t want to spend as much as I just dropped on the projector for that right now.


Thanks, I am aware that tensioned screens are what you should use with UST projectors. Hence I focused my observations on things that are not related to the screen being tensioned/uneven. The "red shadow" effect is not related to the screen being tensioned or not, and the level of blurriness is independent of that also.
Hope some folks will be able to post similar pictures to determine if my device has an issue or if all are like that. For the blurriness my guess is that all of them are like that, but the the red color bleed/shadow - I am not certain if it is just my device or if it is a general issue.


----------



## Chefreyb

Picture on elite screens clr120. Out of the box untouched settings on projector. Pictures don’t do it justice. My only complaint at this point would be the lack of digital keystone adjustment to finish/fine tune alignment.


----------



## grimslade

Blurriness could absolutely be due to screen surface unevenness. Anyway if you post a link to that test pattern I can take some pics of my copy on my screen. 
The CA/red shadow thing is definitely present but not really noticeable at normal viewing distances in my case




hifiand3dfan said:


> Thanks, I am aware that tensioned screens are what you should use with UST projectors. Hence I focused my observations on things that are not related to the screen being tensioned/uneven. The "red shadow" effect is not related to the screen being tensioned or not, and the level of blurriness is independent of that also.
> Hope some folks will be able to post similar pictures to determine if my device has an issue or if all are like that. For the blurriness my guess is that all of them are like that, but the the red color bleed/shadow - I am not certain if it is just my device or if it is a general issue.


----------



## hifiand3dfan

grimslade said:


> Blurriness could absolutely be due to screen surface unevenness. Anyway if you post a link to that test pattern I can take some pics of my copy on my screen.
> The CA/red shadow thing is definitely present but not really noticeable at normal viewing distances in my case


Blurriness - I doubt screen material being the culprit - it seems more lens related given where it represents. 
CA/red shadow-I am sensitive to those things - and maybe that is also more extreme because of the screen size.
Test pattern link - I believe it was this one.


----------



## grimslade

Thanks. This is in a 100” screen so not in the same league as 180” but for comparison.






































hifiand3dfan said:


> Blurriness - I doubt screen material being the culprit - it seems more lens related given where it represents.
> CA/red shadow-I am sensitive to those things - and maybe that is also more extreme because of the screen size.
> Test pattern link - I believe it was this one.


----------



## grimslade

Others have said it but I’ll repeat—the magenta cast in the photo is not visible to the naked eye. I’d say the projector had some red issues out of the box but calibration largely tamed them. There’s still something a little funny about reds sometimes but the cast is gone.


----------



## hifiand3dfan

grimslade said:


> Thanks. This is in a 100” screen so not in the same league as 180” but for comparison.
> View attachment 3092272
> View attachment 3092272
> View attachment 3092273
> View attachment 3092274
> View attachment 3092275


to me the corners look more burry than the center in your case, too - can you "zoom in" on some pixels/contrasts between black and white/white and black similar to how I did it? Wanted to see the "red shadow" (what is CA? Color Aberration?)


----------



## grimslade

hifiand3dfan said:


> to me the corners look more burry than the center in your case, too - can you "zoom in" on some pixels/contrasts between black and white/white and black similar to how I did it? Wanted to see the "red shadow" (what is CA? Color Aberration?)


CA is chromatic aberration. In the world of lenses it refers to color “shadows” like that caused by the fact that different wavelengths (colors) are refracted by different degrees by certain lens materials, causing a prismatic or rainbow effect. I don’t know whether these are lens or laser artifacts but the effect looks similar to CA. 
I will take some more zoomed in and better pics tonight.


----------



## grimslade

Some comparison shots.















Bottom
Middle:









upper right:











hifiand3dfan said:


> So, finally got the 180" screen (non-tensioned) and the Bomaker together.
> Those are non-calibrated pictures. But note that you cannot calibrate sharpness/focus in any way.
> Before everybody screams "but it is a UST projector" - Bomaker advertises it in their product info to be up to 200" screens. So you should be able to have reasonable expectations as to color uniformity, sharpness, geometry and so on up to that screen size.
> In the pictures attached: please forget about the colors - there is no visible tint to the naked eye. But pay attention to distance from screen and level from screen for that distance, and pay attention to blurriness and the "red shadow" below white surfaces.
> And the curved straight lines due to the lens.
> Overall test setup. This is a 180" screen and a pretty high ceiling. This is the built-in test pattern.
> View attachment 3090126
> 
> 
> Red "shadow circle to compare - to me way too blurry:
> View attachment 3090136
> 
> 
> Dot pattern:
> View attachment 3090137
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3090138
> 
> 
> 
> Readability of xbox-home-screen info in upper right corner:
> View attachment 3090140
> 
> 
> 
> A few takeaways:
> Image is very blurry in the corners (if worse than other USTs or better - I do not know - but again, my point is that this is advertised to support 200" screens).
> Visible "red shadow" even in sharp areas. Not sure if it is a fluke unit or everybody has that problem.
> You likely CANNOT ceiling mount even in most rooms that are considered "high ceiling" when you want to achieve 180". The projected picture would start "too low" and probably hit the floor.
> And to put the projector in regular front projection in front of the screen pretty much means putting the projector on the floor.
> 
> I would say up to 120" you are probably OK like with other USTs. 150" already a stretch. 180" does at least not meet my expectations. Forget about 200"





hifiand3dfan said:


> So, finally got the 180" screen (non-tensioned) and the Bomaker together.
> Those are non-calibrated pictures. But note that you cannot calibrate sharpness/focus in any way.
> Before everybody screams "but it is a UST projector" - Bomaker advertises it in their product info to be up to 200" screens. So you should be able to have reasonable expectations as to color uniformity, sharpness, geometry and so on up to that screen size.
> In the pictures attached: please forget about the colors - there is no visible tint to the naked eye. But pay attention to distance from screen and level from screen for that distance, and pay attention to blurriness and the "red shadow" below white surfaces.
> And the curved straight lines due to the lens.
> Overall test setup. This is a 180" screen and a pretty high ceiling. This is the built-in test pattern.
> View attachment 3090126
> 
> 
> Red "shadow" (here at center cross)
> View attachment 3090129
> 
> 
> Sharpness at lower middle "notch"
> View attachment 3090130
> 
> Right middle notch:
> View attachment 3090131
> 
> 
> 
> Testpattern from Youtube (shot without ambient light - tint is not visible to the naked eye).
> View attachment 3090132
> 
> Zoom in the white sharpness pattern - note the red "shadow" below the white lines:
> View attachment 3090133
> 
> Black pattern to compare
> View attachment 3090134
> 
> 
> Sharpness: Lower middle circle (sharpest spot in the image I think)
> View attachment 3090135
> 
> Upper right circle to compare - to me way too blurry:
> View attachment 3090136
> 
> 
> Dot pattern:
> View attachment 3090137
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3090138
> 
> 
> 
> Readability of xbox-home-screen info in upper right corner:
> View attachment 3090140
> 
> 
> 
> A few takeaways:
> Image is very blurry in the corners (if worse than other USTs or better - I do not know - but again, my point is that this is advertised to support 200" screens).
> Visible "red shadow" even in sharp areas. Not sure if it is a fluke unit or everybody has that problem.
> You likely CANNOT ceiling mount even in most rooms that are considered "high ceiling" when you want to achieve 180". The projected picture would start "too low" and probably hit the floor.
> And to put the projector in regular front projection in front of the screen pretty much means putting the projector on the floor.
> 
> I would say up to 120" you are probably OK like with other USTs. 150" already a stretch. 180" does at least not meet my expectations. Forget about 200"


Some CA visible in this moire pattern shot. 








writing in upper left of test pattern. Clear and focused.


----------



## FritzsCorner

Has anyone gotten an accurate measurement of the input latency this UST has? Curious to see how it compares to the Hisense and Vava. The Amazon product page says the following



> Q: What is the input lag when playing video games?
> 
> A: Polaris powered by MEMC, makes the motion image more clear and smooth, gets rid of the motion tail, the input lag is close to unnoticeable when playing most single-player games.


I'm guessing by the way it's worded that it is still in the 40+ ms range?


----------



## bradk14

FritzsCorner said:


> Has anyone gotten an accurate measurement of the input latency this UST has? Curious to see how it compares to the Hisense and Vava. The Amazon product page says the following
> 
> 
> 
> I'm guessing by the way it's worded that it is still in the 40+ ms range?


Bomaker has said 50-60. A few have reported issues with some games (notably CoD: Cold War and I think it was some Assassins Creed) but most report no issue with it. I think it goes without saying that anyone serious about gaming shouldn't rely on this or most USTs.


----------



## Alviston

Can this or any other UST projector really deliver 150”+ images without sacrificing resolution or focus quality? Seems like “name” brands such as Samsung, LG, Epson, etc. don’t make any claims about their UST doing anything beyond 120 or 130” tops. Brands like Bomaker, Vava, Xiaomi all claim they can, and for the Bomaker Polaris even a 200” claim.

If the Polaris truly can do 150”, what screen recommendations are out there to pair it with?

Thanks for the help.


----------



## Meihk

grimslade said:


> CA is chromatic aberration. In the world of lenses it refers to color “shadows” like that caused by the fact that different wavelengths (colors) are refracted by different degrees by certain lens materials, causing a prismatic or rainbow effect. I don’t know whether these are lens or laser artifacts but the effect looks similar to CA.
> I will take some more zoomed in and better pics tonight.


What are your methods of calibration? It's difficult to dial things in, particularly as I'm using a PC. Do you use a systematic method or any tools? I've used a few youtube videos but nothing has helped dial it in satisfactorily.


----------



## grimslade

Meihk said:


> What are your methods of calibration? It's difficult to dial things in, particularly as I'm using a PC. Do you use a systematic method or any tools? I've used a few youtube videos but nothing has helped dial it in satisfactorily.


I don’t have any tools. I used the settings posted elsewhere in this thread as a starting point and used YouTube calibration screens to adjust for my copy, distance and my screen.
Reds were totally blown out out of the box but are close to reasonable now.


----------



## FritzsCorner

I pulled the trigger and bought one and should be here Tuesday. This will be my first projector so not quite sure what I am getting myself into. I have been spending the past few days looking for a 100" screen and wow.. I thought picking out the projector was the hard part!


----------



## grimslade

Choose wisely on the screen. At a minimum get a fixed or tab tensioned screen. A $100 job will not make you happy. USTs really are different beasts when it comes to screens. 


FritzsCorner said:


> I pulled the trigger and bought one and should be here Tuesday. This will be my first projector so not quite sure what I am getting myself into. I have been spending the past few days looking for a 100" screen and wow.. I thought picking out the projector was the hard part!


----------



## DunMunro

FritzsCorner said:


> I pulled the trigger and bought one and should be here Tuesday. This will be my first projector so not quite sure what I am getting myself into. I have been spending the past few days looking for a 100" screen and wow.. I thought picking out the projector was the hard part!


I'd just project onto a wall first to get some idea of baseline performance, then start looking for a screen. Also you may want a larger than 100in image. Experiment a bit!


----------



## FritzsCorner

grimslade said:


> Choose wisely on the screen. At a minimum get a fixed or tab tensioned screen. A $100 job will not make you happy. USTs really are different beasts when it comes to screens.


That's what I am trying to do.. I was looking at this screen but it was a bit more expensive than I had hoped. I also was looking at this one as well from Alibaba, but I have never purchased from them before. Amazon included a free Bomaker screen that I am assuming will be complete garbage, but it was included with the purchase of the projector so I was at least going to try it out until I could find a permanent replacement for it.


----------



## FritzsCorner

[Deleted]


----------



## pulp1

laserdiscguy said:


> Sorry for the delay. Here's a few photos of it projected onto a lightly painted wall.
> 
> View attachment 3091532
> 
> 
> View attachment 3091533
> 
> 
> View attachment 3091534
> 
> 
> View attachment 3091535


thank you, looks cool. Did you do any calibration or change any settings for those pictures? Went ahead and got one of these to try and since its out of the box settings are meant to be way off, need all the help I can get, specifically when only projecting against a wall!


----------



## Chefreyb

pulp1 said:


> thank you, looks cool. Did you do any calibration or change any settings for those pictures? Went ahead and got one of these to try and since its out of the box settings are meant to be way off, need all the help I can get!


I used the settings in this thread and they were a very good starting point and helped a lot.


----------



## pulp1

Chefreyb said:


> I used the settings in this thread and they were a very good starting point and helped a lot.


thanks, but I’m gonna be projecting against a wall for the time being. So just looking for some fast settings to give me a decent enough but not perfect by any means picture to start watching.


----------



## Alviston

Alviston said:


> Can this or any other UST projector really deliver 150”+ images without sacrificing resolution or focus quality? Seems like “name” brands such as Samsung, LG, Epson, etc. don’t make any claims about their UST doing anything beyond 120 or 130” tops. Brands like Bomaker, Vava, Xiaomi all claim they can, and for the Bomaker Polaris even a 200” claim.
> 
> If the Polaris truly can do 150”, what screen recommendations are out there to pair it with?
> 
> Thanks for the help.


Bump - Any thoughts here guys? Thanks!


----------



## hifiand3dfan

Alviston said:


> Bump - Any thoughts here guys? Thanks!


If you have read my posts a little above - I am running a 180" (non-tensioned) screen. The upper part of the image and more pronounced the upper left and upper right corner are quite blurry. Also I have quite some issues with "red shadow" / Chromatic Aberrations - no adjustments possible as far as I can see as the lens is fixed.


----------



## phchrono

IanLaurie said:


> I do know I have modified them further, but I won’t be home for a couple weeks. Will update then.


Thanks


----------



## phchrono

Chefreyb said:


> I used the settings in this thread and they were a very good starting point and helped a lot.


what are the settings that you have refined? I also used the settings of Ianlaurie. for HDR I am very satisfied with the colors. it's mostly in SDR where I can't find the right blue. thank you


----------



## 3rd Eye Projection

Has anyone seen these subtle diagonal bands of light spiraling up from the bottom of the projection? See attached photos, zoom in on bottom, + bottom left of last two. Coming up on 30 days from Amazon and want to know if this is particular to my unit. Most noticeable on white'ish objects and backgrounds. There was a reddish / pinkish tinge to these bands on the bottom left (see Netflix photo) that went away when I cleared some dust from the projecting lens. On a 100" tab tension screen but was showing up on my white wall behind it, as well. It's a little more pronounced in person but can detect in photos if zoom a little.

I'm generally pleased with the Bomaker Polaris 4k - - coming from the BenQ 2150ST which is phenomenal in a variety of ways for >$1k 1080p. Especially like how quiet it is; colors / saturation need significant adjustment, but it's a great piece of tech available in the US for a good price. Hoping this isn't a significant issue or just something that requires a little safe dusting.


----------



## kaptaink45

3rd Eye Projection said:


> Has anyone seen these subtle diagonal bands of light spiraling up from the bottom of the projection? See attached photos, zoom in on bottom and bottom left of last two. Coming up on 30 days from Amazon and want to know if this is particular to my unit. Most noticeable on white'ish objects and backgrounds. There was a reddish / pinkish tinge to these bands on the bottom left (see Netflix photo) that went away when I cleared some dust from the projecting lens. On a 100" tab tension screen but was slowing up on my white wall behind it, as well. It's a lithe more pronounced in person but can detect in photos if zoom a little.
> 
> I'm generally pleased with the Bomaker Polaris 4k - - coming from the BenQ 2150ST which is phenomenal in a variety of ways for >$1k 1080p. Especially like how quiet it is; colors / saturation need significant adjustment, but it's a great piece of tech available in the US for a good price. Hoping this isn't a significant issue or just something that requires a little safe dusting.
> View attachment 3096625
> View attachment 3096626
> View attachment 3096627
> View attachment 3096628


I had something similar to that with my Vava. Once I cleaned the projector lens the lines disappeared. Hopefully it will be same solution for you.


----------



## Distillz

3rd Eye Projection said:


> Has anyone seen these subtle diagonal bands of light spiraling up from the bottom of the projection? See attached photos, zoom in on bottom and bottom left of last two. Coming up on 30 days from Amazon and want to know if this is particular to my unit. Most noticeable on white'ish objects and backgrounds. There was a reddish / pinkish tinge to these bands on the bottom left (see Netflix photo) that went away when I cleared some dust from the projecting lens. On a 100" tab tension screen but was slowing up on my white wall behind it, as well. It's a lithe more pronounced in person but can detect in photos if zoom a little.
> 
> I'm generally pleased with the Bomaker Polaris 4k - - coming from the BenQ 2150ST which is phenomenal in a variety of ways for >$1k 1080p. Especially like how quiet it is; colors / saturation need significant adjustment, but it's a great piece of tech available in the US for a good price. Hoping this isn't a significant issue or just something that requires a little safe dusting.
> View attachment 3096625
> View attachment 3096626
> View attachment 3096627
> View attachment 3096628


I've got the same problem and I've gone as far to take it apart to clean all the lenses. Nothing has helped sadly. It does bug me sometimes, but I try to ignore it.


----------



## Chefreyb

D


3rd Eye Projection said:


> Has anyone seen these subtle diagonal bands of light spiraling up from the bottom of the projection? See attached photos, zoom in on bottom and bottom left of last two. Coming up on 30 days from Amazon and want to know if this is particular to my unit. Most noticeable on white'ish objects and backgrounds. There was a reddish / pinkish tinge to these bands on the bottom left (see Netflix photo) that went away when I cleared some dust from the projecting lens. On a 100" tab tension screen but was slowing up on my white wall behind it, as well. It's a lithe more pronounced in person but can detect in photos if zoom a little.
> 
> I'm generally pleased with the Bomaker Polaris 4k - - coming from the BenQ 2150ST which is phenomenal in a variety of ways for >$1k 1080p. Especially like how quiet it is; colors / saturation need significant adjustment, but it's a great piece of tech available in the US for a good price. Hoping this isn't a significant issue or just something that requires a little safe dusting.
> View attachment 3096625
> View attachment 3096626
> View attachment 3096627
> View attachment 3096628


double check your screen. I had something similar and it was because I brushed my alr screen up when installing it. Brushed it back down and it’s gone now


----------



## grimslade

So I finally installed the Roku stick that came with the projector, and it's telling me that the projector doesn't support HDCP 2.2? Has anyone else encountered this?
I normally use an Apple TV for all my streaming. I plugged in the Roku in part because Netflix keeps blacking out for a second (video only; sound continues) on AppleTV with the Polaris. I wanted to see whether the Roku stick would do any better, as Netflix is unusable on the projector for me at the moment. But I can't set the projector to 4K with Roku because it's telling me it doesn't support HDCP 2.2. It's currently plugged into HDMI 1. I will try swapping it.


----------



## geertm2

grimslade said:


> So I finally installed the Roku stick that came with the projector, and it's telling me that the projector doesn't support HDCP 2.2? Has anyone else encountered this?
> I normally use an Apple TV for all my streaming. I plugged in the Roku in part because Netflix keeps blacking out for a second (video only; sound continues) on AppleTV with the Polaris. I wanted to see whether the Roku stick would do any better, as Netflix is unusable on the projector for me at the moment. But I can't set the projector to 4K with Roku because it's telling me it doesn't support HDCP 2.2. It's currently plugged into HDMI 1. I will try swapping it.


Make sure that the HDMI ports of your projector are set to HDMI 2.0. Select the HDMI port en press the button in the lower right corner of the remote.


----------



## grimslade

geertm2 said:


> Make sure that the HDMI ports of your projector are set to HDMI 2.0. Select the HDMI port en press the button in the lower right corner of the remote.


They are. I have switched them back and forth several times to confirm that wasn’t the issue. Thanks though. I will switch the Roku to hdmi 2 and see if it makes any difference.


----------



## FlyOnTheWall

grimslade said:


> They are. I have switched them back and forth several times to confirm that wasn’t the issue. Thanks though. I will switch the Roku to hdmi 2 and see if it makes any difference.


throw away that roku device and use a real streaming device such as the Nvidia Shield or a 4k Apple Tv.


----------



## grimslade

FlyOnTheWall said:


> throw away that roku device and use a real streaming device such as the Nvidia Shield or a 4k Apple Tv.


See above. I use an Apple TV. But it’s not working with Netflix on this projector.


----------



## pulp1

Ok, guys, so I know USTs should be used with high quality screens but at this point I don't have a choice. It's the wall or nothing. And tbh, I'm not too bothered by it. I know I could probably get a better picture with a TV but I kinda like the non-perfect cinema effect of the wall rather than the pin-sharp realism of the TV. Problem is, I have a focus issue. Take a look at these pics. Pics 2 and 3 show that the top of the image is pretty blurry (ignore the ripple effect of the wall). Is there anything I can do with this and should it be blurry like that? Is it because I'm just too close to the projected image and need to pull it back a bit? I believe it's rated at 80" and up and I'm probably projecting around 75". I compared it with the Wemax Nova and it's not the wall because that one isn't blurry. It does, however, have digital focus so I'm able to get rid of most of the blur. If it's simply the case that I'm not gonna be able to focus this thing at 75" then I guess I'll have to return it.

Also, I saw one of you guys mentioning a red outline. I took a picture and zoomed in on the lettering (image 4) and saw exactly that. Compare it to the NOVA lettering in image 5? Not nearly as blurry and no red effect.

I know it's somewhat ridiculous being nitpicky when I'm projecting against a wall but I'm not looking for perfection.
I am, however, looking for focus at least.

Is this a problem with the projector you think? Is there any way to improve the focus?

Thanks for any help. I appreciate it!


----------



## grimslade

Can you pull it back to where you can get a 80-100” image just to see what difference it makes? Put it on the floor maybe if you have to to see the top corners? 
They definitely don’t look great but it’s hard to say if it’s the distance or the wall or the projector. 


pulp1 said:


> Ok, guys, so I know USTs should be used with high quality screens but at this point I don't have a choice. It's the wall or nothing. And tbh, I'm not too bothered by it. I know I could probably get a better picture with a TV but I kinda like the non-perfect cinema effect of the wall rather than the pin-sharp realism of the TV. Problem is, I have a focus issue. Take a look at these pics. Pics 2 and 3 show that the top of the image is pretty blurry (ignore the ripple effect of the wall). Is there anything I can do with this and should it be blurry like that? Is it because I'm just too close to the projected image and need to pull it back a bit? I believe it's rated at 80" and up and I'm probably projecting around 75". I compared it with the Wemax Nova and it's not the wall because that one isn't blurry. It does, however, have digital focus so I'm able to get rid of most of the blur. If it's simply the case that I'm not gonna be able to focus this thing at 75" then I guess I'll have to return it.
> 
> Also, I saw one of you guys mentioning a red outline. I took a picture and zoomed in on the lettering (image 4) and saw exactly that. Compare it to the NOVA lettering in image 5? Not nearly as blurry and no red effect.
> 
> I know it's somewhat ridiculous being nitpicky when I'm projecting against a wall but I'm not looking for perfection.
> I am, however, looking for focus at least.
> 
> Is this a problem with the projector you think? Is there any way to improve the focus?
> 
> Thanks for any help. I appreciate it!


----------



## rudolpht

zuksis said:


> I just created this username cause I really appreciate this thread and wanted to help out. I recently purchased this projector and have been calibrating it for the last 3 days (i'm new to this). I am using a istudio pro plus and the hcfr program. based on a 1.1 gain screen (not an ALR screen) here are my results for a delta on the grey scale of less than 3 and a gamma of roughly 2.2. Color wise the delta was all below 9 except for red (red always looked super saturated on anything if i brought the delta closer). Do know I'm a complete amateur at this color calibration stuff, so take my setting with a grain of salt. I figured that as I calibrate it more, I'll get a little better each time.
> 
> SDR calibration
> Temp: Hot
> Gamma: standard
> brightness: 55
> contrast: 46
> saturation: 37
> Sharpness: 50
> R gain: 150
> R offset: 120
> G gain: 114
> G offset: 120
> B gain: 193
> B offset: 122
> 
> R tone 42
> R sat 31
> R brightness 38
> G tone 65
> G sat 50
> G brightness 63
> B tone 48
> B sat 59
> B brightness 41
> C tone 58
> C sat 40
> C brightness 46
> M tone 57
> M sat 62
> M brightness 60
> Y tone 24
> Y sat 34
> Y brightness 31
> 
> 
> I would love to do the HDR calibration, but I learned that it is much harder than I expected. Will need to play around with that later.


This was a great help to get closer to calibrate, understanding delta between screen gains. Wondering if you went ahead and tried HDR material calibration?

Also has anyone found discrete input and/or power codes for remotes. I'll tell you this is a hard remote to learn even the limited set of buttons.


----------



## tmpayne91

kaptaink45 said:


> I had something similar to that with my Vava. Once I cleaned the projector lens the lines disappeared. Hopefully it will be same solution for you.


 How did you clean the lens? I’m afraid I’ll damage it


----------



## kaptaink45

tmpayne91 said:


> How did you clean the lens? I’m afraid I’ll damage it


My problem was too much dust on the lens so I just wiped the lens with a microfiber cloth.


----------



## sk1969

Sophia Luo said:


> They said they have covered 24 month warranty and during this days, if you have any issues with this projectors, they will arrange the repair enginner to help you personally.


 I received mine 10 days back with user manual but without any warranty information or document and am unable contact support over the phone. They didn't even replied to my email yet. Where to register the polaris 4k for warranty?


----------



## sk1969

rudolpht said:


> This was a great help to get closer to calibrate, understanding delta between screen gains. Wondering if you went ahead and tried HDR material calibration?
> 
> Also has anyone found discrete input and/or power codes for remotes. I'll tell you this is a hard remote to learn even the limited set of buttons.


Could someone guide me how to change Color Tone (Greyed out) and HDR setting fixed at HIGH (Greyed out) even in user mode?


----------



## grimslade

sk1969 said:


> Could someone guide me how to change Color Tone (Greyed out) and HDR setting fixed at HIGH (Greyed out) even in user mode?


You can only change the settings for HDR while watching hdr content. And likewise with SDR. it’s confusing and not a good design but that’s the way it is.


----------



## sk1969

kidsgone11 said:


> What is your opinion of the polaris?


My observation :
1. Picture is brighter & sharper than VAVA 4k till 110" size - Not sure how good picture quality would be at 200"
2. Color is overwhelmingly saturated specially RED & BLUE and very difficult to calibrate
3. ARC is sending very weak signal to AV receiver
4. No warranty information came along with projector. No response to phone call or not even reply to email 
5. Technology wise better than VAVA but very basic software wise.
6. Youtube video goes blank and ROKU 4k provided with projector hangs on certain 4k/8k youtube videos
7. Quite fan sound much better than VAVA 4k
8. No 3D support in Polaris but VAVA has 3D support

Not sure to keep Polaris 4k without any support response and warranty information and registration.


----------



## sk1969

grimslade said:


> You can only change the settings for HDR while watching hdr content. And likewise with SDR. it’s confusing and not a good design but that’s the way it is.


Got it. Not good customer support too unfortunately.


----------



## tmpayne91

Was there ever any more info about having a blurry corner? The whole image except for the top right is in focus. It’s not horrible because most movies or games don’t have too much going on in the top right. I’ve tried cleaning it and it made no difference. Might just be something I’ll have to live with


----------



## pulp1

Hey guys was watching my projector and it suddenly changed color. Tried restarting it but same issue. Assume one of the lasers has malfunctioned. Fun end to this experiment. Support, non-existent. VAVA and WeMax way better in that respect.


----------



## laserdiscguy

pulp1 said:


> Hey guys was watching my projector and it suddenly changed color. Tried restarting it but same issue. Assume one of the lasers has malfunctioned. Fun end to this experiment. Support, non-existent. VAVA and WeMax way better in that respect.


 That really sucks, but they should replace or repair it under warranty. I've been using mine almost every day for about a month and a half and it's been working pretty well. Hopefully yours turns out to be an isolated issue.


----------



## rayan1910

Anyone wanting to sell theirs? Cant be stuffed waiting for the projector to go back down to 1850. Has anyone compared it to the P1?


----------



## pulp1

rayan1910 said:


> Anyone wanting to sell theirs? Cant be stuffed waiting for the projector to go back down to 1850. Has anyone compared it to the P1?


I would seriously want the warranty on this thing. At the price they sold it for the tech inside, I assume they cut some corners. Would definitely want at least a year of security, unless you're getting it super cheap.


----------



## pulp1

laserdiscguy said:


> That really sucks, but they should replace or repair it under warranty. I've been using mine almost every day for about a month and a half and it's been working pretty well. Hopefully yours turns out to be an isolated issue.


Yeah. They said they think that the lens DMD is malfunctioning. If that means anything to anyone.


----------



## ActonMA01720

Hello,

I received Bomaker 2021 4k a few days ago. I have Roku stream stick (included) connected to the HDMI2 port. Everything works perfectly if I use the Bomaker's own speaker. However, when I tried to use optical audio out (connected to a Yamaha audio receiver), only the center speaker is working. And there is no surround sound. Can someone please help? Thanks a lot in advance.


----------



## tmpayne91

ActonMA01720 said:


> Hello,
> 
> I received Bomaker 2021 4k a few days ago. I have Roku stream stick (included) connected to the HDMI2 port. Everything works perfectly if I use the Bomaker's own speaker. However, when I tried to use optical audio out (connected to a Yamaha audio receiver), only the center speaker is working. And there is no surround sound. Can someone please help? Thanks a lot in advance.


is hdmi not an option?


----------



## rayan1910

pulp1 said:


> I would seriously want the warranty on this thing. At the price they sold it for the tech inside, I assume they cut some corners. Would definitely want at least a year of security, unless you're getting it super cheap.


Sold out now 🤦‍♂️Probably going to look at the Wemax D30 and Fengmi 4k Max. So frustrated. Ordered it on amazon for 2100 and then amazon cancelled my order for thinking it was fraud, next day it was back up to 2600.


----------



## spencerwaltz

I think I am going to have to sell mine. The picture (now I have it dialled in is remarkable) but both me and the other half are seeing the rainbow effect, we catch a lot of subtitled films so this is not going to end well! Does anyone have any recommendations for 4k UST that won't have the rainbow effect? Maybe the LG HU85LA? Thanks y'all


----------



## phchrono

spencerwaltz said:


> I think I am going to have to sell mine. The picture (now I have it dialled in is remarkable) but both me and the other half are seeing the rainbow effect, we catch a lot of subtitled films so this is not going to end well! Does anyone have any recommendations for 4k UST that won't have the rainbow effect? Maybe the LG HU85LA? Thanks y'all


Hello, you can send your setup for SDR and HDR? Thanks


----------



## ActonMA01720

tmpayne91 said:


> is hdmi not an option?


No. My Yamaha receiver is more than ten years old. Also the speakers were about the same age. But they are great working together. Hence I intend to keep them. Do they use a different audio standard these days? Thanks.


----------



## spencerwaltz

phchrono said:


> Hello, you can send your setup for SDR and HDR? Thanks


Read through this thread I think they are on or around page 14


----------



## geertm2

ActonMA01720 said:


> Hello,
> 
> I received Bomaker 2021 4k a few days ago. I have Roku stream stick (included) connected to the HDMI2 port. Everything works perfectly if I use the Bomaker's own speaker. However, when I tried to use optical audio out (connected to a Yamaha audio receiver), only the center speaker is working. And there is no surround sound. Can someone please help? Thanks a lot in advance.


In the audio settings of the projector Digital output should be set to "RAW". That way your receiver does the decoding of the digital audio signal.
The audio of the Roku is default set to "Auto detect". Check that a surround sound format has been chosen by the Roku.


----------



## phchrono

spencerwaltz said:


> Read through this thread I think they are on or around page 14


I couldn't find your settings around page 14. I searched by author and none of your posts mentioned parameters. 
if this is ianlaurie's settings, this is fine for HDR but not SDR


----------



## ActonMA01720

geertm2 said:


> In the audio settings of the projector Digital output should be set to "RAW". That way your receiver does the decoding of the digital audio signal.
> The audio of the Roku is default set to "Auto detect". Check that a surround sound format has been chosen by the Roku.


Your suggestion worked!!! The sound was perfect! Thank you very much!


----------



## geertm2

ActonMA01720 said:


> Your suggestion worked!!! The sound was perfect! Thank you very much!


Nice to hear. Enjoy your projector!


----------



## hifiand3dfan

sk1969 said:


> Not sure to keep Polaris 4k without any support response and warranty information and registration.


I am on the fence of returning requesting an exception from Amazon. But the support response and warranty information/registration I had no issues with.
The support email address answers typically about every other day if I send them something. But there are problems that probably cannot be resolved since it probably cannot support the larger screen sizes that they talk about in their Amazon posting (up to 200") it would be able to support. At least regarding the blurriness situation I observed for larger images.
They claim they talk to their engineers and see if they can improve it, but not sure how they would be doing it short of offering specialized lenses for larger projection sizes (that then would not work well at smaller sizes).
The way the communications go, I doubt they have a "real" engineering team that works deep on the guts of the projector though. Responses are a bit too generic and feel like a game-of-telephone.


----------



## phchrono

Hi everyone, are you still happy with your Polaris 4K? Me yes, everything is fine for a 100 inch image. Do you know if there is a new update since? Thank you


----------



## juic-E-juice

It has disappeared off of Amazon. Can’t even purchase it now. Bizarre.


----------



## geertm2

juic-E-juice said:


> It has disappeared off of Amazon. Can’t even purchase it now. Bizarre.


The Bomaker website mentions that the projector is expected in April. So they are probably waiting for new stock (Amazon stock has probably run out).


----------



## geertm2

phchrono said:


> Hi everyone, are you still happy with your Polaris 4K? Me yes, everything is fine for a 100 inch image. Do you know if there is a new update since? Thank you


Love this projector. Picture looks great on my 110 inch ALR screen and razor sharp!


----------



## dbpaddler

ActonMA01720 said:


> No. My Yamaha receiver is more than ten years old. Also the speakers were about the same age. But they are great working together. Hence I intend to keep them. Do they use a different audio standard these days? Thanks.


What Geer said, plus you won't get any of the newer HD audio codecs going through optical.

What I would do is at least get a hdmi 1.3a or 1.4 receiver. They can be had dirt cheap all over Craigslist, offer up and FB marketplace. Like near flagship level for under $200. Then get this:


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082KXZB23?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share



Plug the Roku into it, send the 4k signal to the bomaker. Send the other hdmi to the receiver. 

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk


----------



## phchrono

geertm2 said:


> Love this projector. Picture looks great on my 110 inch ALR screen and razor sharp!


Great. I hope that at 120 inches it will still have its sharpness
In SDR, what are your settings? I still have a problem with the blue


----------



## Meihk

phchrono said:


> Hi everyone, are you still happy with your Polaris 4K? Me yes, everything is fine for a 100 inch image. Do you know if there is a new update since? Thank you


I use a 120" ALR screen and it's very nice with an excellent projection. It's not perfectly aligned though and I hope that keystone correction will be added with a firmware update. I sometimes wonder if I should've got the LG HU810P instead but I'm overall happy with the projector and setup.
Mike


----------



## phchrono

Meihk, thank you for your advice


----------



## imhotep6

phchrono said:


> Hi everyone, are you still happy with your Polaris 4K? Me yes, everything is fine for a 100 inch image. Do you know if there is a new update since? Thank you


So far happy with the purchase. Got a 100” ALR screen. On occasion have gotten a green screen but a restart takes care of it. Hard to get aligned but no big deal for now.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## phchrono

imhotep6, It's true it's not easy to line up but I already had a UST before so it went well for me. I have a Fengmi Black Grid CLR screen, the rendering is great. I plan to take a 120 inch Telon screen in the near future.

I haven't heard from IanLaurie for his SDR settings


----------



## MarkM78

Overall I am pretty pleased with this purchase as well. I am curious as to how well they will support it with firmware updates and things like that but hardware wise I have been really pleased with it so far.


----------



## cmoorecars

I'm interested in picking one of these up, but trying to maximize my wall space. I'm planning on a 110" screen, but need to know how many inches below the screen does this unit have to be positioned to display 110". I'm not concerned with how far away from the wall it has to be, but how far below the screen. Ill have to fit both the projector and my center channel below the screen. Thanks!!


----------



## AMadHatter_888

laserdiscguy said:


> I stumbled on what appears to be an interesting new entrant joining the UST party:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laser TV
> 
> 
> Get 40% OFF on All Bomaker Projectors, Enter JULY50 at Checkout START SHOPPING Polaris 4K Ultra Short Throw Laser TVThe world's widest color gamut projector with RGB laser technologySign up to receive our 31%super early bird discount with$1999for the first 50 backers Bomaker Polaris 4K Laser TV...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.bomaker.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -native 4K
> -RGB tri-color laser light source
> 
> I've never heard of this company before, but I'm curious to see if they'll be able to deliver something at the VAVA 4k price point that performs at or near the level of a Samsung LSP9T.


Really curious about how it would stack to Hisense 120/100 L5F.


----------



## mbg10484

The thing that caught my eye about this projector is that it claims you can project an image up to 200" diagonal, where as most UST's have max projection sizes in the range of 80" - 120". The only other UST's that I'm aware of that claim they can project larger than 120" are the Vava and Xiaomi, which both claim 150". This includes the really high end UST projectors like the Sony UST that costs about $15k which also claims max screen size of 120"

Does anyone here have this projector? And if so can you confirm that it can project an image up to 200" and still maintain a clear good image? Also I'm curious if this projector suffers the problem of the picture being out of focus in the corners at any size, but especially if projecting at 200".

I believe this blurry corners issue common on some UST projectors is due to the UST optics, and is only exacerbated by projecting a larger image which is why most UST's claim a max screen size of 120" to avoid this issue. To be able to project a really large image and avoid this issue would probably require some pretty fancy optics, and fancy optics cost BIG $$$. Given the list price of this unit, i doubt it's optics are anything special relative to other UST's in a similar price range, let alone the $15k Sony UST. Therefore I'm highly skeptical that this thing is capable of projecting a good quality, in focus image at 200" screen size, but would love to get feedback from someone who actually has one.


----------



## grimslade

I have the projector but I don't have anything close to the ceiling to height to check it at 200". I'm projecting at 105" and pretty happy with it. In partial answer to someone else's question, at that size it is 20" off the ground and, I would guess, 8-12" below the screen. Not super scientific I know...


----------



## dbpaddler

mbg10484 said:


> The thing that caught my eye about this projector is that it claims you can project an image up to 200" diagonal, where as most UST's have max projection sizes in the range of 80" - 120". The only other UST's that I'm aware of that claim they can project larger than 120" are the Vava and Xiaomi, which both claim 150". This includes the really high end UST projectors like the Sony UST that costs about $15k which also claims max screen size of 120"
> 
> Does anyone here have this projector? And if so can you confirm that it can project an image up to 200" and still maintain a clear good image? Also I'm curious if this projector suffers the problem of the picture being out of focus in the corners at any size, but especially if projecting at 200".
> 
> I believe this blurry corners issue common on some UST projectors is due to the UST optics, and is only exacerbated by projecting a larger image which is why most UST's claim a max screen size of 120" to avoid this issue. To be able to project a really large image and avoid this issue would probably require some pretty fancy optics, and fancy optics cost BIG $$$. Given the list price of this unit, i doubt it's optics are anything special relative to other UST's in a similar price range, let alone the $15k Sony UST. Therefore I'm highly skeptical that this thing is capable of projecting a good quality, in focus image at 200" screen size, but would love to get feedback from someone who actually has one.


Search the thread for "200". Believe there were a few people. 

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk


----------



## dbpaddler

For those that haven't bought yet, just saw this with Leica optics.









JMGO O1 Pro- Ultra-short Throw Smart LED Projector


100" FHD in 9 Inches｜Auto Correction｜Dual Speakers Tuned by Dynaudio｜Co-engineered with Leica | Check out 'JMGO O1 Pro- Ultra-short Throw Smart LED Projector' on Indiegogo.




www.indiegogo.com





"With audio-visual contributions from Leica Camera and Dynaudio, to smart features like wall color calibration, keystone correction, and autofocus."

"JMGO O1 can project an 100” screen in 15 inches while with Leica’s effort, JMGO O1 Pro can project 100” in just 9.2 inches, both with 4K compatibility and 1920 x 1080P resolution."

Not a ton of info, but looks like it'll be a 1080 hdr LED based UST. Should be interesting at the right price point. And if you sign up for the mailing list for itz they have some 40% off perk.

Saw it posted on petapixel:








Leica Partners with JMGO to Produce the O1 Pro Home Theater Projector


Leica is further diversifying itself outside of cameras.




petapixel.com





Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk


----------



## juic-E-juice

dbpaddler said:


> For those that haven't bought yet, just saw this with Leica
> "JMGO O1 can project an 100” screen in 15 inches while with Leica’s effort, JMGO O1 Pro can project 100” in just 9.2 inches, both with 4K compatibility and 1920 x 1080P resolution."


I read this earlier this morning. 

I got excited about this projectors throw ratio, but 1080p in 2021?!? C’mon man!


----------



## dbpaddler

juic-E-juice said:


> I read this earlier this morning.
> 
> I got excited about this projectors throw ratio, but 1080p in 2021?!? C’mon man!


1080 hdr projectors are becoming a thing. Some have setups that can't fully appreciate 4k either. So if the price is right, it could be worthwhile. The Bo was around $2k on deals. If this comes in significantly less (mayebwith the 40% off perk), it could be worthwhile. Could be plenty bright if it has the latest led tech. Has Keystone correction which the Bo still doesn't have, I believe. Haven't followed as closely since I got rid of it.

And depending on size, it could be much more useful in multipurpose rooms. I might consider it for my living room if the size is right, and I can ceiling mount it. Also entertaining the LG laser regular throw. 

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk


----------



## moctodavs

juic-E-juice said:


> I read this earlier this morning.
> 
> I got excited about this projectors throw ratio, but 1080p in 2021?!? C’mon man!


So not even pixel shifting?


----------



## juic-E-juice

moctodavs said:


> So not even pixel shifting?


No, not the JMGO mentioned, so I wouldn’t even bother to cross shop it against this Bomaker. The Bomaker is tri-laser and 4K. It just doesn’t have as good of a TR as the JMGO thanks to its well developed Leica lense design.


----------



## IanLaurie

S


----------



## IanLaurie

phchrono said:


> imhotep6, It's true it's not easy to line up but I already had a UST before so it went well for me. I have a Fengmi Black Grid CLR screen, the rendering is great. I plan to take a 120 inch Telon screen in the near future.
> 
> I haven't heard from IanLaurie for his SDR settings


Sorry man, haven’t been on in awhile. Take in some foster kids and life gets real busy for some reason haha. I will try and post the settings in the next few days. Just need to try and find a few hours to myself.


----------



## phchrono

IanLaurie said:


> Sorry man, haven’t been on in awhile. Take in some foster kids and life gets real busy for some reason haha. I will try and post the settings in the next few days. Just need to try and find a few hours to myself.


No worries, you're right, better to enjoy your family 
It is not an emergency. post when you have a little time


----------



## laserdiscguy

dbpaddler said:


> For those that haven't bought yet, just saw this with Leica optics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JMGO O1 Pro- Ultra-short Throw Smart LED Projector
> 
> 
> 100" FHD in 9 Inches｜Auto Correction｜Dual Speakers Tuned by Dynaudio｜Co-engineered with Leica | Check out 'JMGO O1 Pro- Ultra-short Throw Smart LED Projector' on Indiegogo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.indiegogo.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "With audio-visual contributions from Leica Camera and Dynaudio, to smart features like wall color calibration, keystone correction, and autofocus."
> 
> "JMGO O1 can project an 100” screen in 15 inches while with Leica’s effort, JMGO O1 Pro can project 100” in just 9.2 inches, both with 4K compatibility and 1920 x 1080P resolution."
> 
> Not a ton of info, but looks like it'll be a 1080 hdr LED based UST. Should be interesting at the right price point. And if you sign up for the mailing list for itz they have some 40% off perk.
> 
> Saw it posted on petapixel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leica Partners with JMGO to Produce the O1 Pro Home Theater Projector
> 
> 
> Leica is further diversifying itself outside of cameras.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> petapixel.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk


It looks like a nice design appearance-wise, certainly compared to the Polaris. I imagine that by "4k compatible" they mean it'll use standard pixel shifting. I don't see how else they can claim 4k compatibility otherwise. It'll be interesting to see how it compares to some of the other UST projectors on the market once it's released.


----------



## dbpaddler

laserdiscguy said:


> It looks like a nice design appearance-wise, certainly compared to the Polaris. I imagine that by "4k compatible" they mean it'll use standard pixel shifting. I don't see how else they can claim 4k compatibility otherwise. It'll be interesting to see how it compares to some of the other UST projectors on the market once it's released.


I took it as similar to the other new crop of 1080 projectors that accept 4k for hdr purposes. I didn't read anything that would indicate pixel shifting. 

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk


----------



## dbpaddler

juic-E-juice said:


> No, not the JMGO mentioned, so I wouldn’t even bother to cross shop it against this Bomaker. The Bomaker is tri-laser and 4K. It just doesn’t have as good of a TR as the JMGO thanks to its well developed Leica lense design.


And the other one is LED. The newest LED is supposed to be pretty bright and many have been looking forward to seeing projectors use it. For those that don't have setups that really take advantage of 4k res. I'd be perfectly fine with 1080 hdr and Leica optics on my 100" screen in the living room. Especially if it's at a reduced enough price point. 

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk


----------



## yamaharuss

I'm considering the Bomaker 2021 (ceiling mounted) for a small music venue and utilizing the full 200" display to project on a wall behind performers on a stage that would basically be from the stage floor & up. I would then like to have my 120" motorized screen a little bit closer to the projector to view movies etc. without the obstruction of stage equipment (drums etc.). Any opinions on how this may or may not work?


----------



## prnoct90

Has anyone seen any comparisons between this and the LG HU85XX?


----------



## memoverflo

Anyone got 4K60p 4:2:2 HDR 10bit HDMI connection working? I could only get 4k60p 4:2:0 HDR 10bit or 4k60p 4:2:2 HDR 8bit. Does it mean that the internal bandwidth is not 18Gbps?


----------



## Ricoflashback

hifiand3dfan said:


> I am on the fence of returning requesting an exception from Amazon. But the support response and warranty information/registration I had no issues with.
> The support email address answers typically about every other day if I send them something. But there are problems that probably cannot be resolved since it probably cannot support the larger screen sizes that they talk about in their Amazon posting (up to 200") it would be able to support. At least regarding the blurriness situation I observed for larger images.
> They claim they talk to their engineers and see if they can improve it, but not sure how they would be doing it short of offering specialized lenses for larger projection sizes (that then would not work well at smaller sizes).
> The way the communications go, I doubt they have a "real" engineering team that works deep on the guts of the projector though. Responses are a bit too generic and feel like a game-of-telephone.


***Did you return the Bomaker Projector? Are you using a 200" screen? If so, you have to be in the 1% or less of all projector users, IMHO. I'm not being critical - - only that any projector, let alone a UST, would have trouble with that large of screen and sharpness. Especially at this price point.


----------



## juic-E-juice

yamaharuss said:


> I'm considering the Bomaker 2021 (ceiling mounted) for a small music venue and utilizing the full 200" display to project on a wall behind performers on a stage that would basically be from the stage floor & up. I would then like to have my 120" motorized screen a little bit closer to the projector to view movies etc. without the obstruction of stage equipment (drums etc.). Any opinions on how this may or may not work?


This sounds unrealistic. There are multiple reviewers stating that this projector should not be rated for screens larger than 150”. And I don’t understand how this would work well on a stage where other ambient focal lighting would compete with the reflected image of a projector, unless you plan to rear mount it.


----------



## chhanthony

Sorry for wrong quote...


----------



## phchrono

memoverflo said:


> Anyone got 4K60p 4:2:2 HDR 10bit HDMI connection working? I could only get 4k60p 4:2:0 HDR 10bit or 4k60p 4:2:2 HDR 8bit. Does it mean that the internal bandwidth is not 18Gbps?


Hello,

Here is what my shield tells me:










I tested YUV 422 12 bits, It's work but I didn't see any difference with my eyes 
The bandwidth is well 18Gbps 










if not, has there been an update since? 

Thanks


----------



## Michael94

I am considering buying bomaker Polaris. Can any one confirm how is 720p content (aka upscaling performance ) in this projector?


----------



## phchrono

Michael94 said:


> I am considering buying bomaker Polaris. Can any one confirm how is 720p content (aka upscaling performance ) in this projector?


There is no scaling from the VP. 
720p cannot be used on this type of device. You need at least 1080p. 
From an nvidia shield, the upscaling is not bad from a 720p source .


----------



## Michael94

phchrono said:


> There is no scaling from the VP.
> 720p cannot be used on this type of device. You need at least 1080p.
> From an nvidia shield, the upscaling is not bad from a 720p source .


Thank you very much.
Is this projector better than vava? Vava has very good user reviews in Amazon even better than this.


----------



## phchrono

Michael94 said:


> Thank you very much.
> Is this projector better than vava? Vava has very good user reviews in Amazon even better than this.


I don't know, I didn't have the Vava. But I got the first generation Xiaomi 4K.(it seems to me that it is the same material except for the sound part)

Pros:

a better contrast / brighter color (Tri-laser)
more bright
more silent and heat less
memc

Cons:

very bad sound quality from the VP
only 2 HDMI output
no Keystone and focus
design level it is less goes everywhere


----------



## Michael94

phchrono said:


> I don't know, I didn't have the Vava. But I got the first generation Xiaomi 4K.(it seems to me that it is the same material except for the sound part)
> 
> Pros:
> 
> a better contrast / brighter color (Tri-laser)
> more bright
> more silent and heat less
> memc
> 
> Cons:
> 
> very bad sound quality from the VP
> only 2 HDMI output
> no Keystone and focus
> design level it is less goes everywhere


Thank you very much again. I ready many complains of different issues. Any updates with your projector?


----------



## phchrono

When I bought it, there was an update but since then the VP is not connected to the Internet. 
That's why I was asking if there had been an update since.


----------



## imhotep6

Does anyone get an updating amp information error?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## phchrono

imhotep6 said:


> Does anyone get an updating amp information error?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Sorry but I did not understand your question


----------



## imhotep6

phchrono said:


> Sorry but I did not understand your question


I’m getting an error that say updating amp information when playing video. I’M using an Apple TV. Pops up randomly. Anyone else get this?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## phchrono

Sorry, I don't use an amp with the VP and no Apple TV


----------



## Meihk

imhotep6 said:


> I’m getting an error that say updating amp information when playing video. I’M using an Apple TV. Pops up randomly. Anyone else get this?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It happens to me all the time! I'm not sure why and I don't know how to prevent it. I'm not using apple TV. I have it plugged into a receiver and maybe that's a reason?


----------



## ThatHighLife7

imhotep6 said:


> Does anyone get an updating amp information error?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Mine just started giving me the error last night when I hooked up my sound bar to it. It’s annoying and I haven’t figured out how to fix it, I was worried it will continue when my I get a receiver.


----------



## imhotep6

The updating amp error still persist. I tried the Roku stick that comes with it but I still get the error. About to put this thing on eBay.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Meihk

imhotep6 said:


> The updating amp error still persist. I tried the Roku stick that comes with it but I still get the error. About to put this thing on eBay.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I wrote to Bomaker to see if they had any recommendations on how to fix this issue. Maybe it will be fixed in an upcoming update? Fingers crossed.


----------



## PapaSchlumpf

Does Bomaker have any warehouse in EU to ship from?
I'm from Germany and would like to avoid paying 33% import fees.


----------



## cox1981

PapaSchlumpf said:


> Does Bomaker have any warehouse in EU to ship from?
> I'm from Germany and would like to avoid paying 33% import fees.


Will be directly shipped from Germany. Received mine within 2 days, without any customs problems


----------



## PapaSchlumpf

Super, thanks for the confirmation


----------



## humax

How is the contrast with an alr screen in this model? Are the black bars in movies black or greyish? I suppose it is the latter, since this is a brighter projector. So far the only ust picture I have seen, where the black bars are dark and contrasty enough is the wemax a300. Any comments?


----------



## PapaSchlumpf

If someone is interested in the Beamer, the Independence Day discount 'Polaris700'(-700$) is still working.


----------



## Sub__Zero80

Hello all, great thread! Anyone tested the L5f against the bomaker? 

I will buy a UST project but don't know which to buy: Optoma P2 | Epson Ls500 | Bomaker LAser | Hisense L5F

Can anyone help me?


----------



## ACE844

Sub__Zero80 said:


> Hello all, great thread! Anyone tested the L5f against the bomaker?
> 
> I will buy a UST project but don't know which to buy: Optoma P2 | Epson Ls500 | Bomaker LAser | Hisense L5F
> 
> Can anyone help me?


Wouldn't you want to compare it to the Hisense L9 pro as it's an rgb laser UST and not the L5 which is not?


----------



## GregK

Has there been any more discussion / updates of the 3-D firmware update they had mentioned awhile back?


----------



## Brajesh

Lack of 3D support is what holds me back from trying out this PJ.


----------



## laserdiscguy

humax said:


> How is the contrast with an alr screen in this model? Are the black bars in movies black or greyish? I suppose it is the latter, since this is a brighter projector. So far the only ust picture I have seen, where the black bars are dark and contrasty enough is the wemax a300. Any comments?


It will definitely be a bit grey, but it'll depend on the gain of your ALR screen. I think it actually looks pretty decent, but obviously it will be more noticeable during darker scenes. I'll try to post some photos of mine with an ALR screen under different lighting conditions.


----------



## laserdiscguy

Meihk said:


> I wrote to Bomaker to see if they had any recommendations on how to fix this issue. Maybe it will be fixed in an upcoming update? Fingers crossed.


I've encountered this issue as well, though it's not very frequent. I'm using both a receiver and an NVIDIA Shield. Hopefully there will be a firmware update to address this and other issues. I haven't had any luck getting ARC working.


----------



## Sub__Zero80

ACE844 said:


> Wouldn't you want to compare it to the Hisense L9 pro as it's an rgb laser UST and not the L5 which is not?


Thanks for the suggestion. The L9 isn't available yet.

In Europe will not probably be released before year end.

I would like to purchase it until september. I've been in contact with bomaker and they are ofering their projectors for around 2k euros... + ALR screen, it would be a good purchase.


----------



## Michael94

Sub__Zero80 said:


> Hello all, great thread! Anyone tested the L5f against the bomaker?
> 
> I will buy a UST project but don't know which to buy: Optoma P2 | Epson Ls500 | Bomaker LAser | Hisense L5F
> 
> Can anyone help me?


Buy the JMGO u2 after Kickstarter. It is far better projector and JMGO is one of the old and reliable tech companies in china. It is basically JMGO u2 pro ( JMGo flagship projector ) without the gimmicky floating speakers and screen size limited to 100'inchs.


----------



## Sub__Zero80

Michael94 said:


> Buy the JMGO u2 after Kickstarter. It is far better projector and JMGO is one of the old and reliable tech companies in china. It is basically JMGO u2 pro ( JMGo flagship projector ) without the gimmicky floating speakers and screen size limited to 100'inchs.


Thanks @Michael94 !
That looks a sound approach. Kickstarter will take some months... the U2 will probably be available at the end of the year... correct?


----------



## PapaSchlumpf

even with the 30% discount JMGO offers it will probably end 900$ above the Polaris ( 2800$). The specs looks pretty much the same expect 3D capability. I can't see that the U2 is the _far better _PJ


----------



## Michael94

PapaSchlumpf said:


> even with the 30% discount JMGO offers it will probably end 900$ above the Polaris ( 2800$). The specs looks pretty much the same expect 3D capability. I can't see that the U2 is the _far better _PJ


No it is $2100 with the discount. So I guess still it is way better worth than Polaris and bomaker is not even comparable with JMGO.


Sub__Zero80 said:


> Thanks @Michael94 !
> That looks a sound approach. Kickstarter will take some months... the U2 will probably be available at the end of the year... correct?


Yes maybe. I don't know. I'm just excited to buy a good projector and came across both.


----------



## PapaSchlumpf

Michael94 said:


> No it is $2100 with the discount. So I guess still it is way better worth than Polaris and bomaker is not even comparable with JMGO.
> 
> Yes maybe. I don't know. I'm just excited to buy a good projector and came across both.


You forget, that I'm located in EU(Germany) and I think, JMGO does not ship from any country within the EU. That means, I have to pay 33% import custom and tax what makes the JMGO far less worth than the Bomaker as they guaranteed no import fees for me.
From the specs, it seems they both use the same hardware (presumable Hisense). A plus for JMGO is the 3D capability and the existing key stroke correction. I hope Bomaker adds these features in the near future. Using screen size other than 100" is a show stopper for the JMGO! 
Both companies using crowd funding platform to fund their new beamer, which makes none of them reliable partners for me. 
On the other hand, the Polaris is available and some user did confirm the quality already. As SubZero80 correctly mentioned, the JMGO might not be delivered before end of the year and it will take some more month to get the first reviews and a reliable assessment of the new U2.


----------



## Michael94

PapaSchlumpf said:


> You forget, that I'm located in EU(Germany) and I think, JMGO does not ship from any country within the EU. That means, I have to pay 33% import custom and tax what makes the JMGO far less worth than the Bomaker as they guaranteed no import fees for me.
> From the specs, it seems they both use the same hardware (presumable Hisense). A plus for JMGO is the 3D capability and the existing key stroke correction. I hope Bomaker adds these features in the near future. Using screen size other than 100" is a show stopper for the JMGO!
> Both companies using crowd funding platform to fund their new beamer, which makes none of them reliable partners for me.
> On the other hand, the Polaris is available and some user did confirm the quality already. As SubZero80 correctly mentioned, the JMGO might not be delivered before end of the year and it will take some more month to get the first reviews and a reliable assessment of the new U2.


For UK they ship free, I asked. For $2100 it very cheap than bomaker. And bomaker has also found with many faulty units. JMGO is a recognized company in china. Bomaker is small company and they use Hisense TRI laser technology, which is a good thing. But still the comparing price, known many complains of bomaker and there lack of support compared to JMGO, I highly recommend JMGO. But still you are right we need wait and see for reliable reviews, that gives the edge to bomaker but still in user reviews many had issues.


----------



## nmkaleb7

Sub__Zero80 said:


> Thanks @Michael94 !
> That looks a sound approach. Kickstarter will take some months... the U2 will probably be available at the end of the year... correct?


They have a Facebook page they're using to share information. One of the posts said that they are planning to ship by September. Also there will be a $2629 option that comes with the screen, $2099 without the screen.


----------



## shiv

Hi all
Got a new Polaris projector. Have a few questions to the group. I will be using it in a light controlled room with dark walls.
Can I use a 135 or 150 inch matt white screen. I hear conflicting reports.
I was told by xy screen at Alibaba that they have pet crystal max 120 inches. But they have a pet grid screen upto 150 inches that can be used with Polaris on a dark room. Anybody using this.
How is the vava ust screen 100 inch
in case I plan to use in my living room
Thanks in advance


----------



## bix26

PapaSchlumpf said:


> You forget, that I'm located in EU(Germany) and I think, JMGO does not ship from any country within the EU. That means, I have to pay 33% import custom and tax what makes the JMGO far less worth than the Bomaker as they guaranteed no import fees for me.
> From the specs, it seems they both use the same hardware (presumable Hisense). A plus for JMGO is the 3D capability and the existing key stroke correction. I hope Bomaker adds these features in the near future. Using screen size other than 100" is a show stopper for the JMGO!
> Both companies using crowd funding platform to fund their new beamer, which makes none of them reliable partners for me.
> On the other hand, the Polaris is available and some user did confirm the quality already. As SubZero80 correctly mentioned, the JMGO might not be delivered before end of the year and it will take some more month to get the first reviews and a reliable assessment of the new U2.


The Bomaker lacks focus adjustment also. I can’t seem to find a clear answer on what screen size it’s set to from the factory. I have a feeling they’re claims on screen sizes are assuming people won’t notice any focus issues.


----------



## PapaSchlumpf

Just got the confirmation from JMGO, that they do not have any warehouse in EU and thy have no way to avoid import tax for Germany. This means the U2 would cost me nearly 2800$. For people outside EU or with less import tax it‘s an interesting alternative, but *for me*, the advantages on the firmware of the U2 are not worth additional 800$. Especially if there is still hope that Bomaker adds these features in the near future 🙂


----------



## PapaSchlumpf

bix26 said:


> The Bomaker lacks focus adjustment also. I can’t seem to find a clear answer on what screen size it’s set to from the factory. I have a feeling they’re claims on screen sizes are assuming people won’t notice any focus issues.


Good point, I haven‘t thought about it. Might be another hint that they are using the same display hardware.


----------



## humax

The optimal projection diagonal and set up for these 0.47" dmd rgb laser models is 100" with an accompanying alr screen. Samsung claims only up to 130" for their 0.66" rgb ust model. Above that you are bound to have focus issues and good luck finding a screen that is perfectly flat at that size.


----------



## IanLaurie

phchrono said:


> No worries, you're right, better to enjoy your family
> It is not an emergency. post when you have a little time


Okay here you go, my final settings for both HDR and SDR

SDR:
Brightness 48
Contrast 41
Saturation 38
Sharpness 0
Gamma standard
Color temp hot
Color adjustment
Red tone 45
Red saturation 52
Red brightness 50
Green tone 50
Green sat 50
Green bright 50
Blue tone 50
Blue sat 49
Blue bright 50
Cyan tone 72
Cyan sat 64
Cyan bright 50
Magenta tone 34
Magenta sat 59
Magenta bright 50
Yellow tone 60
Yellow sat 50
Yellow bright 58
Skin tone 65
Skin sat 50
Skin bright 70

HDR
Bright 50
Contrast 45
Saturation 46
Sharpness 0
Color temp hot
Color adjustments:
All same as above

hdr medium

you will want to adjust the brightness and contrast settings according to your set up but this should put you in the ballpark. The colours are really really good with these Color adjustments though.


----------



## humax

Thank you for posting your settings and pictures! Are you using an alr screen with the bomaker and what is its gain? The black floor seems elevated due to high brightness. One thing that troubles me is that bomaker only claims 2,000:1 contrast, whereas the similarly specked Jmgo U2 claims to have 15,000:1. I guess it is dynamic and inflated numbers!


----------



## IanLaurie

I am using an ALR screen. It is from Elite screens. I dont entirely remember the specs, but i believe it was .6 gain. As with almost any projector, it is almost impossible to get a true black. I will say that i spent most of a decade working on the technical side of the film industry, and am very very picky about my video. Yes i still have a limited budget to work with too. This really does look fantastic and is a great way to watch shows. And this projector is bright enough to watch in well lit rooms. It washes it out a bit as would be expected, but more than acceptable for most viewing.


----------



## IanLaurie

humax said:


> Thank you for posting your settings and pictures! Are you using an alr screen with the bomaker and what is its gain? The black floor seems elevated due to high brightness. One thing that troubles me is that bomaker only claims 2,000:1 contrast, whereas the similarly specked Jmgo U2 claims to have 15,000:1. I guess it is dynamic and inflated numbers!


 Oh and the elite screen also came with a led backlighting strip, which I haven’t yet installed but will go an extremely long way in properly adjusting your eyes to make blacks actually seem really really black.


----------



## H.Z.

Hello all, I just purchased the Bomaker Polaris 4k and should have it early next. I'll post an update and photos after I get it set up. I had read through some reviews that the OEM for this unit is Hisense and after doing a little more research I discovered that in fact this is just a rebranded Hisense 75L9S. Well as far as the chassis and inputs and layout is concerned. I did not find the processor specs on the 75L9S to compare with the Polaris's Mstar 6A-838 CPU.
I thought it might be a useful consideration for others on the fence. The unit, at least visually is Identical to the BoMaker Polaris. This is bitter a sweet discovery with the sweet being the triple laser (and excellent gamut reproduction) technology pioneered by Hisense and bitter being that this unit was positioned as entry level, targeting 75 inches not 100 to 150 and originally retailed for $1749 USD according to a review. I guess that's neither here nor there but I hope the image reproduction is the same as the Hisense model.

Switching gears, I recently purchased the WeMax Nova but had to return it due to persistent coil whine, excessive heat output and fan noise (my living room is pretty quiet so the fan was very pronounced) but the picture was excellent, the operating system (Android 9.0) worked well and aside from the noted issues I would have kept the unit.


----------



## ske79

pulp1 said:


> Yeah. They said they think that the lens DMD is malfunctioning. If that means anything to anyone.


Did Bomaker resolve this issue or Did they replace your unit?. Just want know how bomaker deals with its customer post sales.


----------



## humax

I have a big dilemma! Between this and the new Fengmi C2 model, which one would you choose? 3500:1 measured contrast on the Fengmi calibrated, rgb laser and around 1500:1 on the Polaris. Both units have FI. Price-wise they are close. Is rgb laser worth it in terms of color volume in comparison to a blue laser model, even with a lower contrast measurement? More color or more contrast? Decisions, decisions!


----------



## laserdiscguy

humax said:


> I have a big dilemma! Between this and the new Fengmi C2 model, which one would you choose? 3500:1 measured contrast on the Fengmi calibrated, rgb laser and around 1500:1 on the Polaris. Both units have FI. Price-wise they are close. Is rgb laser worth it in terms of color volume in comparison to a blue laser model, even with a lower contrast measurement? More color or more contrast? Decisions, decisions!


I imagine you've seen this, but Grégory from Passion Home Cinema gave the C2 high praise recently: (scroll down in the article for the English version)



Test Fengmi Formovie Cinéma 2 : l’avis de Grégory. – – Le Blog de PHC –



Tough call. It would be nice to see a direct comparison between the two, but that will be hard to come by. Part of the reason I went with the Polaris was the assumption that the tri-laser light source would offer a superior picture. (There's a reason the Samsung LSP9T with the tri-laser is the higher end of their two UST's) But it sounds like the C2 is no slouch.

I'm sure you can't go wrong with either of them at their price point.


----------



## phchrono

For my part, I am very satisfied with my Polaris 4K. I had the first Xiaomi 4K before. Of course this has nothing to do with the 4K 1S or the Fengmi C2 but no regrets. The colors are really vibrant. This is surely due to its Rec. 2020 to almost 100% (Xiaomi 4K= 59,4% / Fengmi C2 = 57.8%). And I think you can't compare the contrast of a laser vs tri-laser (see test of the Chiq C8UT which only has a contrast of 800 when calibrated, and the Home Cinema Passion site says: "I took a nice little visual slap! ")

Polaris VS Xiaomi 4K:

Pros:
best color
quiet
do not heat
consumes less

Cons:
poor audio part
just 2 HDMI ports


----------



## humax

Thank you for both replies. I am more inclined to the Polaris myself due to rgb laser, but on the other hand I am sick and tired of having the dark bars in movies being grey in the dlps I have owned before. Even with a 0.6 alr screen, the Polaris will probably still show them grey, whereas in the Fengmi C2 they will probably look, well almost black. Contrast numbers do not lie. I do not know, I am really confused. Anyone knows, when the discount code on the Polaris expires?


----------



## phchrono

Honestly, when I watch a movie I don't look at the black bands ... If it really bothers, we should install LEDs around the screen. After the Fengmi C2, we should see what happens with the first buyers. For the promo, there will always be. We must not be in a hurry


----------



## humax

It is not just the black bars. Dark scenes also will look hazy with just 1500:1. Ιs this the case with the Polaris?


----------



## phchrono

I never paid attention to the dark ... I will be watching this afternoon. 
Otherwise the contrast announced by Bomaker is 2000:1 it seems to me
I haven't seen a real test on the Polaris 4K


----------



## humax

Are you using an alr screen? 2.000:1 is the advertised contrast. Calibrated contrast should be lower. Samsung the premiere with the 0.66" dmd is around 1.300:1 calibrated and 1800:1 uncalibrated. The Fengmi C2 calibrated is 3.500:1 according to Gregory's review. I have also seen the Wemax A300 in person, which uses the same Appotronics laser module and optical block as the C2 with an 0.6 alr screen and the black bars looked very good, namely black with minimal light leakage. That is why I am skeptical about the dark scenes with the Polaris. Gregory also mentions speckle and predominant reds with rgb laser projectors. Others mention possible problems with focus, convergence, color fringing and blurriness, if the 3 lasers are not perfectly aligned. Any comments from actual users of the Polaris are welcome.


----------



## phchrono

Yes I am using a CLR screen (Fengmi Black Grid) I do not have a measuring device so I would not know what the real contrast is. 
After each to his vision of things. Currently the Polaris 4K suits me perfectly. Maybe the Fengmi C2 is better for black... 
I don't have a speckle, the dominant red has been corrected with Ian's settings but it is true that all Tri-lasers left the factory have a dominant red. 
I have no problem with focus (100"), convergence, color fringing and blurriness. I had seen that some were defective on IGG


----------



## humax

Thank you kindly for your input and for taking the time to upload the images. Those dark scenes don't look bad at all, but the high brightness does seem to wash out the picture a bit as expected, even with the low gain alr screen. Meanwhile, I stumbled across the following video on YouTube, which perfectly sums up what I saw in person with the wemax a300 only in a darkened room. In this comparison, the room is not even dark! Notice the black bars of the a300 in the middle.

Wemax D30 vs Wemax A300 and Fengmi 4K Cinema Pro - YouTube


----------



## phchrono

It is true, on this video that the black bands are blacker on the A300 but I find the colors more vibrant on the D30.
After like I said, I don't watch the black bands but the film. Apart from watching a film in black and white or gravity.
As I said, after each to his vision of things.
I think you are in a dilemma. If you absolutely want the black stripes, take the A300 or maybe the C2


----------



## humax

It is not about the black bars, it is the general lower contrast that flattens the image and makes dark scenes a little hazy. Well, the A300 is an older model with no FI, the d30 is too expensive and the c2 is not an rgb laser projector. The Polaris is rgb, but could use a little more contrast and finally none of them have the larger 0.66" dmd. Go figure! Realistically speaking the Polaris or the C2 are still my first choice. I suppose movie colors on the Polaris should be more vibrant and richer than any of the projectors in the above video.


----------



## sullijos

With the current sale, this seems like a great value. I was looking at the new BenQ v7050i which has been getting good reviews, and the upcoming Vava Chroma which will be tri-laser and ALDP 4.0. However, those are both much more expensive than the Polaris. My only concern with the Polaris is after sale support. Can anyone comment on their experience with warranty/replacement from the U.S.? Also, are you happy with the quality given the price point?


----------



## Miniswede

Hello! 

Im new to avsforums. And i would be so greatful for your help (have read all of the 31 pages, so interesting!) 

I got two questions:

1) Can someone please tell me the difference between bomakers tri laser and Vava Chroma tri-laser and ALDP 4.0? I have tried to google it but i cant find any information. Is the tri laser with aldp 4.0 much better than the bomaker tri laser? What does aldp add to tri laser? (i know that the vava haven't been released. But based on specs).

2) can someone please share a short video of the bomakers picture quality? I have search the web and only found 2 youtube videos, nothing else!? (those that bomakers link to on their own homepage, but they seems so "pro review", not like a normal user) could someone just link like a 1-2 min youtune/video link with their bomaker? Doesnt need to be something special

Thank you so much! 🙏


----------



## Theedgeace

Miniswede said:


> Hello!
> 
> Im new to avsforums. And i would be so greatful for your help (have read all of the 31 pages, so interesting!)
> 
> I got two questions:
> 
> 1) Can someone please tell me the difference between bomakers tri laser and Vava Chroma tri-laser and ALDP 4.0? I have tried to google it but i cant find any information. Is the tri laser with aldp 4.0 much better than the bomaker tri laser? What does aldp add to tri laser? (i know that the vava haven't been released. But based on specs).
> 
> 2) can someone please share a short video of the bomakers picture quality? I have search the web and only found 2 youtube videos, nothing else!? (those that bomakers link to on their own homepage, but they seems so "pro review", not like a normal user) could someone just link like a 1-2 min youtune/video link with their bomaker? Doesnt need to be something special
> 
> Thank you so much! 🙏


ALDP seems to be kinda like SONY’s Trinitron. It’s a phosphor tech. It’s probably using a new phosphor to either increase color gamut, and/or increase brightness, and or increase contrast. 

Since both Bomaker and VAVA are both off brands that utilize components/ manufacturing from other OEM I’m guessing they will be really close in terms of best dialed in performance. 

it’s hard to show video or images of the Bomaker because of an artifact in the way color cameras perceive color vs human eyes. Without going too deep in the weeds the red laser in the trichroma laser setup is just a bit too far red and manages to excite both the blue and red pixels on a camera. This is not perceptible when viewing in person.

One caveat about trichroma lasers. They can have a bit of chromatic aberration due to tiny micron sized misalignments of the laser. Mine has a slight red shadow underneath static white images. Not noticeable when watching a movie, but it does exist. Thanks m guessing the Vava and Bomaker exist because OEMs aren’t happy with the current trichroma laser modules and are selling them to other OEMs. Just look at the Hisense. Their trichroma laser initially came out for only an 80” screen likely because of the laser alignment issues.

all in all I wouldn’t trade my bomaker for another projector. It’s been great for gaming for me, despite what some people say. Just put it in Game mode and turn off all picture options like noise reduction, motion etc. The colors are way richer then they have any right to be for a 1900 projector to the point that standard 4K seems like HDR because of the color gamut. Also don’t try HDR I can’t get it dialed in no matter what I try. The included Roku doesn’t play nice with the HDMI ports. Get an Apple TV 4K and set it to 4K 4:4:4 chroma and enjoy.
Seriously love this projector especially for the price.


----------



## humax

@ Miniswede

Vava has just been announced, but seems to be the best specked ust 0.47" tri-laser projector right now. The only thing it is missing is an 0.66" dmd for a sharper 4k picture. ALPD 4.0 should also provide better contrast and better brightness and be more energy efficient than ALPD 3.0. It does cost a 1,000$ more than the Polaris, which makes the latter a VFM choice. However, there is no indication in specs that the Polaris is using an ALPD module at all and its contrast is not so great. AFAIK, the Appotronics ALPD module is used exclusively in Xiaomi/ Fengmi/Wemax projectors. VAVA also seems to be using it. If it were simple to obtain it, you would see it in projectors like the new ust Benq, but this is not the case.


----------



## LesterJ

Looking for some clarification on screen size. Just purchased the Polaris and very excited to see what kind of image I can get from it once it arrives. Just wondering if I should stick to the 100" Akia CLR3 screen I just got or if I can get away with going to the 123" version. I've notice some others mention that going bigger with this projector causes more chromatic aberration, specifically with the red shadow. Does anyone have a screen around 123" on here and how does it seem to handle it? Is there a big difference with this issue from 100" to 123"? Is it just from 150"+ screens that it becomes an issue? Is it a problem at 100" as well, that just gets linearly more obvious as you go larger? Any incite would be appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## LesterJ

Also, how long did it take to ship for others in the states?


----------



## Miniswede

Theedgeace said:


> ALDP seems to be kinda like SONY’s Trinitron. It’s a phosphor tech. It’s probably using a new phosphor to either increase color gamut, and/or increase brightness, and or increase contrast.
> 
> Since both Bomaker and VAVA are both off brands that utilize components/ manufacturing from other OEM I’m guessing they will be really close in terms of best dialed in performance.
> 
> it’s hard to show video or images of the Bomaker because of an artifact in the way color cameras perceive color vs human eyes. Without going too deep in the weeds the red laser in the trichroma laser setup is just a bit too far red and manages to excite both the blue and red pixels on a camera. This is not perceptible when viewing in person.
> 
> One caveat about trichroma lasers. They can have a bit of chromatic aberration due to tiny micron sized misalignments of the laser. Mine has a slight red shadow underneath static white images. Not noticeable when watching a movie, but it does exist. Thanks m guessing the Vava and Bomaker exist because OEMs aren’t happy with the current trichroma laser modules and are selling them to other OEMs. Just look at the Hisense. Their trichroma laser initially came out for only an 80” screen likely because of the laser alignment issues.
> 
> all in all I wouldn’t trade my bomaker for another projector. It’s been great for gaming for me, despite what some people say. Just put it in Game mode and turn off all picture options like noise reduction, motion etc. The colors are way richer then they have any right to be for a 1900 projector to the point that standard 4K seems like HDR because of the color gamut. Also don’t try HDR I can’t get it dialed in no matter what I try. The included Roku doesn’t play nice with the HDMI ports. Get an Apple TV 4K and set it to 4K 4:4:4 chroma and enjoy.
> Seriously love this projector especially for the price.





humax said:


> @ Miniswede
> 
> Vava has just been announced, but seems to be the best specked ust 0.47" tri-laser projector right now. The only thing it is missing is an 0.66" dmd for a sharper 4k picture. ALPD 4.0 should also provide better contrast and better brightness and be more energy efficient than ALPD 3.0. It does cost a 1,000$ more than the Polaris, which makes the latter a VFM choice. However, there is no indication in specs that the Polaris is using an ALPD module at all and its contrast is not so great. AFAIK, the Appotronics ALPD module is used exclusively in Xiaomi/ Fengmi/Wemax projectors. VAVA also seems to be using it. If it were simple to obtain it, you would see it in projectors like the new ust Benq, but this is not the case.


Wow, wish i could give you both a hug! Thank you so much guys 🙏 then ill wait for the vava, sounds to me that the vava got some specs that's worth that extra 1000$.


----------



## LesterJ

Miniswede said:


> Wow, wish i could give you both a hug! Thank you so much guys 🙏 then ill wait for the vava, sounds to me that the vava got some specs that's worth that extra 1000$.


If you can wait till next year, then go ahead.  I don't think it's worth 50% more in cost. I'd rather use that on a good ALR screen. I doubt the contrast is that much better. You can only get so far with the texas instruments pixel shifting tech. If it were a native 4K RGB laser UST projector, then I would spring for the extra $1K and there would be much better contrast. But I'm in the market for a projector today, so if you can wait a half year for the reviews to make your decision, then that's probably a good option, but then the next laser UST projector will be announced with a little better specs, and then the waiting game begins all over. 

Side note, from what I can tell about the difference between ALDP 3 and 4 is that ALDP 3 uses a red and blue laser and then ALDP 4 uses 3 RGB lasers. So the Polaris, I assume, is using ALDP 4 already. Any expert want to chime in on this? I guess one of us could contact Bomaker for clarification.


----------



## humax

@ LesterJ

I think you are confusing things. So far all ALPD 3.0 models I have seen, were single blue laser designs. The Xiaomi variations produced native 3000-3500:1 and Vava even less from the 0.47" dmd, which can have as low as 400-500:1 native contrast. So if Vava is true to their specs, pairing rgb laser with the latest ALPD version, which claims even higher than 3000:1 native contrast is a big deal. The Polaris is advertising 2000:1 contrast and nowhere mention in their page the ALPD logo. I suppose the same is true with the JMGO U2. That does not change the fact the Polaris is great VFM.

As for native 4k dlp, all 4k home dlps are pixel shifters. Even when 8k arrives, TI will probably use pixel shifting chips for cost reasons.
The best 4k chip right now is the 0.66" dmd with 1300:1-1800:1 calibrated native contrast, which produces a sharper 4k image due to higher native resolution of 2716x1528 pixels, whereas the 0.47" dmd has 1920x1080 native resolution and lower native contrast than the 0.66" dmd.


----------



## LesterJ

humax said:


> @ LesterJ
> 
> I think you are confusing things. So far all ALPD 3.0 models I have seen, were single blue laser designs. The Xiaomi variations produced native 3000-3500:1 and Vava even less from the 0.47" dmd, which can have as low as 400-500:1 native contrast. So if Vava is true to their specs, pairing rgb laser with the latest ALPD version, which claims even higher than 3000:1 native contrast is a big deal. The Polaris is advertising 2000:1 contrast and nowhere mention in their page the ALPD logo. I suppose the same is true with the JMGO U2. That does not change the fact the Polaris is great VFM.
> 
> As for native 4k dlp, all 4k home dlps are pixel shifters. Even when 8k arrives, TI will probably use pixel shifting chips for cost reasons.
> The best 4k chip right now is the 0.66" dmd with 1300:1-1800:1 calibrated native contrast, which produces a sharper 4k image due to higher native resolution of 2716x1528 pixels, whereas the 0.47" dmd has 1920x1080 native resolution and lower native contrast than the 0.66" dmd.


Thanks for that information. You're right, I am confused because on the appotronics website, their diagrams show single blue UST laser projectors being ALPD 2.0 with ALPD 3.0 using two lasers(there have been a few projectors in the market that have used this), ALPD 4.0 has the 3 laser combo. It also only claims a theoretical contrast of 2500 for ALPD 4.0. 4.0 also has a claimed 98% of rec. 2020 color standards, with 3.0 reaching P3 color. So far as I know, no single laser projector can reach 100% of the DCI P3 standard. So I'm not sure how Vava and some others are claiming ALPD 3.0 when they can't even reach 100% of NTSC.






ALPD<sup>®</sup>Technology - APPOTRONICS


APPOTRONICS,New Light,New Life!




en.appotronics.com





As for the chips, Sony does have native 4k home projectors that don't do pixel shifting, but they cost way too much for most of us.


----------



## LesterJ

This Hisense is a good example. Scroll down to the specs and it's obviously using ALPD 3.0. It's got a Red and Blue laser with a yellow phosphor filter, 1500:1 static contrast, and 95% of DCI-P3 color gamut.








Hisense 120L10E 4K UHD Smart Dual Laser UST Projector - 120" Image Size & Subwoofer - REFURBISHED - NO SCREEN INCLUDED - Hisense Hisense-120L10E


#Hisense-120L10E - Hisense 120L10E 4K UHD Smart Dual Laser UST Projector - 120" Image Size & Subwoofer - REFURBISHED - NO SCREEN INCLUDED




www.projectorscreen.com





VAVA claims ALPD 3.0, but can only reach 85% of NTSC. So most likely it's actually 2.0


----------



## PapaSchlumpf

VAVA claims ALPD 4.0 and 106% Rec.2020 color gamut for their new Chroma RGB UST Laser


----------



## LesterJ

PapaSchlumpf said:


> VAVA claims ALPD 4.0 and 106% Rec.2020 color gamut for their new Chroma RGB UST Laser


Right, for their newly announced one. I was referring to their current model. I should have clarified.


----------



## humax

@ LesterJ

Again, your writing is confusing. When a projector is using the ALPD module, it is stated in its specs. I don't see the Hisense is mentioning anywhere the ALPD trademark: 120L10E Spec Release_V08102020 (hisense-usa.com) just that is a dual laser design. A typically advertised contrast for an ALPD 3.0 projector is 3.000:1. Appotronics has a business agreement with Xiaomi for home projectors and Barco for Digital Cinema DLPs. ALPD 3.0 has already reached native 3500:1 contrast on the Xiaomi/Fengmi/Wemax versions: Test Fengmi Formovie Cinema 2: Grégory's opinion. – – Phc's Blog – (passionhomecinema.fr) (this is a blue laser+ALPD 3.0 design), so ALPD 4.0 should have even higher native contrast:
ALPD<sup>®</sup>Technology - APPOTRONICS . The point is RGB laser + ALPD 4.0 is good news in terms of contrast and color. If VAVA also had an 0.66" dmd, it would be the ultimate ust dlp projector right now. Just my two cents!


----------



## LesterJ

humax said:


> @ LesterJ
> 
> Again, your writing is confusing. When a projector is using the ALPD module, it is stated in its specs. I don't see the Hisense is mentioning anywhere the ALPD trademark: 120L10E Spec Release_V08102020 (hisense-usa.com) just that is a dual laser design. A typically advertised contrast for an ALPD 3.0 projector is 3.000:1. Appotronics has a business agreement with Xiaomi for home projectors and Barco for Digital Cinema DLPs. ALPD 3.0 has already reached native 3500:1 contrast on the Xiaomi/Fengmi/Wemax versions: Test Fengmi Formovie Cinema 2: Grégory's opinion. – – Phc's Blog – (passionhomecinema.fr) (this is a blue laser+ALPD 3.0 design), so ALPD 4.0 should have even higher native contrast:
> ALPD<sup>®</sup>Technology - APPOTRONICS . The point is RGB laser + ALPD 4.0 is good news in terms of contrast and color. If VAVA also had an 0.66" dmd, it would be the ultimate ust dlp projector right now. Just my two cents!


That article references a dual laser system for the Fengmi, which would make sense to me as being ALPD 3.0.
I guess the disconnect I'm having is that it seems you're saying that the number of lasers is not indicative of the version of ALPD? Right? And that's why I'm confused, because it seems that in order to reach the higher color standards having multiple lasers source colors is essential. Isn't ALPD all about replacing the traditional bounced color wheel with direct colored light? So isn't ALPD all about the laser light source and filters?


----------



## humax

All I am saying is when a projector is using an ALPD module, it says so in its specs as a registered trademark. The Fengmi C2 is a single blue laser design + ALPD 3.0 and now we have the VAVA, which is RGB tri laser + ALPD 4.0. It is a exclusive Appotronics laser light source and optical block design that not all ust dlp projectors use. Check the selling specs for both projectors. Both mention ALPD with a registered trademark.

[new fengmi c2] formovie 4k cinema laser projector 2200 ansi lumens alpd 3.0 5g wifi android 9.0 100 inch anti-light giant soft screen bluetooth 4.2 without screen version Sale - Banggood.com-arrival notice 

Chroma Triple Laser Ultra Short Throw Projector | VAVA


----------



## Meihk

IanLaurie said:


> Okay here you go, my final settings for both HDR and SDR
> 
> SDR:
> Brightness 48
> Contrast 41
> Saturation 38
> Sharpness 0
> Gamma standard
> Color temp hot
> Color adjustment
> Red tone 45
> Red saturation 52
> Red brightness 50
> Green tone 50
> Green sat 50
> Green bright 50
> Blue tone 50
> Blue sat 49
> Blue bright 50
> Cyan tone 72
> Cyan sat 64
> Cyan bright 50
> Magenta tone 34
> Magenta sat 59
> Magenta bright 50
> Yellow tone 60
> Yellow sat 50
> Yellow bright 58
> Skin tone 65
> Skin sat 50
> Skin bright 70
> 
> HDR
> Bright 50
> Contrast 45
> Saturation 46
> Sharpness 0
> Color temp hot
> Color adjustments:
> All same as above
> 
> hdr medium
> 
> you will want to adjust the brightness and contrast settings according to your set up but this should put you in the ballpark. The colours are really really good with these Color adjustments though.


I wanted to highlight IanLaurie's settings for those viewing this blog. These are great calibration guidelines for those with a UST ALR/CLR screen. Thanks so much Ian!


----------



## Ideal1

LesterJ said:


> That article references a dual laser system for the Fengmi, which would make sense to me as being ALPD 3.0.
> I guess the disconnect I'm having is that it seems you're saying that the number of lasers is not indicative of the version of ALPD? Right? And that's why I'm confused, because it seems that in order to reach the higher color standards having multiple lasers source colors is essential. Isn't ALPD all about replacing the traditional bounced color wheel with direct colored light? So isn't ALPD all about the laser light source and filters?


The foundation of Apptronics' design is obtaining more brightness and efficiency by using phosphor with their single, laser light source. I think Appotronics themselves will mainly stick to using one laser with their projector technology for the long-haul to avoid the speckle or sparkling effect issue that can occur with multiple lasers, plus it's more expensive producing multiple lasers per device.


----------



## ACE844

Ideal1 said:


> The foundation of Apptronics' design is obtaining more brightness and efficiency by using phosphor with their single, laser light source. I think Appotronics themselves will mainly stick to using one laser with their projector technology for the long haul to avoid the speckle or sparkling effect issue that can occur with multiple lasers, plus it's more expensive producing multiple lasers per device.


Their literature clearly shows a tri-laser (technicniclly quad laser they are using the 'pure green' with a blue laser and phosphor to make Yellow, unless I'm misreading the schematic?) design for the 4.0?


----------



## Capt Ace

LesterJ said:


> Also, how long did it take to ship for others in the states?


For me it was just 4 business days.


----------



## Capt Ace

Bomaker Polaris Support has seen this thread and I can prove it.



IanLaurie said:


> Okay here you go, my final settings for both HDR and SDR
> 
> SDR:
> Brightness 48
> Contrast 41
> Saturation 38
> Sharpness 0
> Gamma standard
> Color temp hot
> Color adjustment
> Red tone 45
> Red saturation 52
> Red brightness 50
> Green tone 50
> Green sat 50
> Green bright 50
> Blue tone 50
> Blue sat 49
> Blue bright 50
> Cyan tone 72
> Cyan sat 64
> Cyan bright 50
> Magenta tone 34
> Magenta sat 59
> Magenta bright 50
> Yellow tone 60
> Yellow sat 50
> Yellow bright 58
> Skin tone 65
> Skin sat 50
> Skin bright 70
> 
> HDR
> Bright 50
> Contrast 45
> Saturation 46
> Sharpness 0
> Color temp hot
> Color adjustments:
> All same as above
> 
> hdr medium
> 
> you will want to adjust the brightness and contrast settings according to your set up but this should put you in the ballpark. The colours are really really good with these Color adjustments though.


I just got my Bomaker a couple days ago. I noticed the chromatic aberration, or red shadow as some of you described. This issue is quite distracting when watching any content, so I contacted support to troubleshoot and maybe get a replacement/refund. 

After referencing my issues with CA (red shadow), they sent me the EXACT COLOR SETTINGS IanLaurie has fine-tuned to best suit his needs. This is troubling on multiple accounts for me, but I'm awaiting their next reply when I provided pictures that have the same chromatic aberration issues. My guess why this is an issue is that most of these projectors have a similar lens or laser defect. It's difficult to get precise pinpoint resolution clarity no doubt, but I think every Polaris is affected by it. (some of us just aren't resolution snobs like me.) 

This would also be a good time to reference Bomaker's website return policy. It states you can only request a return within 48 hours of receiving the product and if it isn't of the quality you expected, they won't charge you for shipping it back. I'm glad I fit that window, but I have a feeling they won't honor that... 

So to the Bomaker lurker here...I'm watching you. Always watching.


----------



## humax

@ Capt Ace

I believe the Polaris uses a high quality Ricoh Lens, so your chromatic aberration problems may be due to tri-laser misalignment. In this case, I don't think there are other options than replacement or refund. However, I would not expect to find a unit with zero chromatic aberration even in high end models due to the nature of the design.


----------



## Ideal1

ACE844 said:


> Their literature clearly shows a tri-laser (technicniclly quad laser they are using the 'pure green' with a blue laser and phosphor to make Yellow, unless I'm misreading the schematic?) design for the 4.0?
> 
> 
> View attachment 3169115
> 
> 
> View attachment 3169117


If you look at their visual slides of the technology like in the first image you posted, you'll see them mostly pointing out a single laser solution + phosphor as the consistent pattern with their design. They mentioned a multiple laser source for movie cinemas, but that's not the ideal cost they're chasing for home users. They're targeting the single blue laser light source + phosphor since this benefits with less expense, having no speckle on screens, having a wide color spectrum, and having a high efficiency.


----------



## PapaSchlumpf

Capt Ace said:


> Bomaker Polaris Support has seen this thread and I can prove it.
> 
> 
> 
> I just got my Bomaker a couple days ago. I noticed the chromatic aberration, or red shadow as some of you described. This issue is quite distracting when watching any content, so I contacted support to troubleshoot and maybe get a replacement/refund.
> 
> After referencing my issues with CA (red shadow), they sent me the EXACT COLOR SETTINGS IanLaurie has fine-tuned to best suit his needs. This is troubling on multiple accounts for me, but I'm awaiting their next reply when I provided pictures that have the same chromatic aberration issues. My guess why this is an issue is that most of these projectors have a similar lens or laser defect. It's difficult to get precise pinpoint resolution clarity no doubt, but I think every Polaris is affected by it. (some of us just aren't resolution snobs like me.)
> 
> This would also be a good time to reference Bomaker's website return policy. It states you can only request a return within 48 hours of receiving the product and if it isn't of the quality you expected, they won't charge you for shipping it back. I'm glad I fit that window, but I have a feeling they won't honor that...
> 
> So to the Bomaker lurker here...I'm watching you. Always watching.


It seems Bomaker is quite reluctant to return requests. They tried several times to convince me to keep the unit with extended warranty... after I finally told them that I still want to return it they did not respond at all!
In the meanwhile I got my money back from PayPal AND have the Polaris boxed waiting for shipment since 3 weeks.


----------



## hdxls

Hello all, I have read every post on this thread and now I don’t know if I should buy it. It seemed perfect for my home theatre woth the features and the price but lack of customer support and warranty is holding me back. I love the specs and feel the red shadow issue should be manageable. Is it possible to get square trade warranty with this independently?


----------



## Ricoflashback

hdxls said:


> Hello all, I have read every post on this thread and now I don’t know if I should buy it. It seemed perfect for my home theatre woth the features and the price but lack of customer support and warranty is holding me back. I love the specs and feel the red shadow issue should be manageable. Is it possible to get square trade warranty with this independently?


***Yeah - great features and specs but if the customer support isn’t any good and if the warranty doesn’t match up to other options then it’s a risky move. A separate warranty won’t help much, IMHO. They’ll first look to the manufacturers warranty and who knows how well that conversation will go. Lots of other good options including Vava, Epson and Optoma. My personal favorite is the new BenQ V7050i. It’s not a tri-laser but I’m much more interested in color out of the box and BenQ has a great 3 year warranty with people you can get ahold off. I just wouldn’t roll the dice on a company that doesn’t respond or support their products.


----------



## PapaSchlumpf

Ricoflashback said:


> ***Yeah - great features and specs but if the customer support isn’t any good and if the warranty doesn’t match up to other options then it’s a risky move. A separate warranty won’t help much, IMHO. They’ll first look to the manufacturers warranty and who knows how well that conversation will go. Lots of other good options including Vava, Epson and Optoma. My personal favorite is the new BenQ V7050i. It’s not a tri-laser but I’m much more interested in color out of the box and BenQ has a great 3 year warranty with people you can get ahold off. I just wouldn’t roll the dice on a company that doesn’t respond or support their products.


You pay what you get and even Chinese manufacturers have to calculate. Bomaker decided to spend most of their budget into the device and less into firmware and support. If they would have spend more into firmware development and support staff hiring, you wouldn't be able to buy the Polaris for 1899$.
No everybody is willing to pay approximately 2300$ more for 2 additional years warranty and better support for a beamer with outdated technology and worse specification.


----------



## Ricoflashback

PapaSchlumpf said:


> You pay what you get and even Chinese manufacturers have to calculate. Bomaker decided to spend most of their budget into the device and less into firmware and support. If they would have spend more into firmware development and support staff hiring, you wouldn't be able to buy the Polaris for 1899$.
> No everybody is willing to pay approximately 2300$ more for 2 additional years warranty and better support for a beamer with outdated technology and worse specification.


***U.S. pricing for the Bomaker 4K is $1,999.99. The BenQ V7050i is priced at $3,499.00 with a free pair of 3D glasses and advanced technology superior to the Chinese Bomaker 4K. You can find a Vava or other models with superior warranties and excellent technology for $500 bucks more.

There are a lot of quick buck, Chinese companies willing to offer very low prices with zero support and lousy warranties. How’s that experience shipping back a faulty unit? A couple months plus the cost to ship back to China?

I have a lot of quality Chinese Electronics but I always buy them through an established U.S. Distributor with a warranty and someone to call in the U.S. I have a Huawei P30 cell phone, a HiBy R5 player and a Muzishare X7-KT88 tube amplifier. All bought through Amazon except for the HiBy R5 player, which was more of a flyer, but a company with a good reputation and solid customer support.

By all means, roll the dice if you want to. But be aware, if anything goes wrong with your Bomaker 4K UST - you’re SOOL.


----------



## PapaSchlumpf

Ricoflashback said:


> ***U.S. pricing for the Bomaker 4K is $1,999.99. The BenQ V7050i is priced at $3,499.00 with a free pair of 3D glasses and advanced technology superior to the Chinese Bomaker 4K. You can find a Vava or other models with superior warranties and excellent technology for $500 bucks more.
> 
> There are a lot of quick buck, Chinese companies willing to offer very low prices with zero support and lousy warranties. How’s that experience shipping back a faulty unit? A couple months plus the cost to ship back to China?
> 
> I have a lot of quality Chinese Electronics but I always buy them through an established U.S. Distributor with a warranty and someone to call in the U.S. I have a Huawei P30 cell phone, a HiBy R5 player and a Muzishare X7-KT88 tube amplifier. All bought through Amazon except for the HiBy R5 player, which was more of a flyer, but a company with a good reputation and solid customer support.
> 
> By all means, roll the dice if you want to. But be aware, if anything goes wrong with your Bomaker 4K UST - you’re SOOL.


Nothing else I said ;-)
As said, you pay what you get. Each additional feature will cost money and it's up to you to decide what has to be in and how much you want to pay for the entire package.
The comparison would be easy if they would cost the same, but in Germany, the BenQ is 2k€ more than the Bomaker and to be honest, with it's outdated technology it's not an option for ME. There are other much better UST beamer with equal state of the art technic and more functionality (3d, app store...) for the same price as the Bomaker (JMGO U2) or 'only' 1k$ more like the new Vava Chroma.
By the way, the Bomaker cost 1899,- using code Polaris800 not 1999 ;-)


----------



## Ricoflashback

PapaSchlumpf said:


> Nothing else I said ;-)
> As said, you pay what you get. Each additional feature will cost money and it's up to you to decide what has to be in and how much you want to pay for the entire package.
> The comparison would be easy if they would cost the same, but in Germany, the BenQ is 2k€ more than the Bomaker and to be honest, with it's outdated technology it's not an option for ME. There are other much better UST beamer with equal state of the art technic and more functionality (3d, app store...) for the same price as the Bomaker (JMGO U2) or 'only' 1k$ more like the new Vava Chroma.
> By the way, the Bomaker cost 1899,- using code Polaris800 not 1999 ;-)


***Nice catch for those of you interested in taking a flyer on this PJ. It's not advertised on their website but the Polaris800 code does work. Right you are. Gee, maybe you could plug in Polaris 1000 or higher and see if it takes?

The BenQ I referred to (V7050i) is not outdated technology - - so I'm not sure what you are referring to. It has one extra feature that I really like - - the "moonroof" to keep out dust when the projector is off. But as you said, it's not cost effective in Germany so that ends that discussion. I've had great luck with BenQ projectors. There colors, brightness and 4K clarity are incredible. You really don't have to have it calibrated as the out of the box picture is stunning. I really had no choice in my smaller man cave as it doesn't allow for anything except for an ultra-short throw projector like my current TK700STi. The UST will be for our new house when we move next year. 

Downsizing - - no dedicated theater room unless we can find a place that has a basement. Still - - we're a year away and I'm sure there will be more UST Projectors announced. This is a growth market and many folks would like the benefit of that big screen appearance without having to mount a projector. The biggest caveats I see are dealing with halos or "Tinker Bell" on your ceiling. That happens with a lot of UST Projectors and also fresnel screens. Speaking of screens, some folks say don't worry - - get an acceptable screen. Having two projectors already - - I will optimize my screen for a UST PJ - the Grandview Dynamique or I'll see what Seymour AV has to offer. Danke schön.


----------



## PapaSchlumpf

Ricoflashback said:


> The BenQ I referred to (V7050i) is not outdated technology - - so I'm not sure what you are referring to.


For me using a color wheel is outdated technology. I'm quite sure in 1-2 years all brands will use tri color laser source in their mid price and high end beamer.
The new tri-color laser modules producing better picture quality with less power consumption wich results in less wattages and therefor less fan noise. Provided, that the surrounding hardware can utilize the capabilities


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## Ricoflashback

PapaSchlumpf said:


> For me using a color wheel is outdated technology. I'm quite sure in 1-2 years all brands will use tri color laser source in their mid price and high end beamer.
> The new tri-color laser modules producing better picture quality with less power consumption wich results in less wattages and therefor less fan noise. Provided, that the surrounding hardware can utilize the capabilities


***If Tri-Color laser is your choice I believe the Vava Chroma will soon be released at $2,799 intro price. But that specs at <30 db noise level and the highly reviewed Samsung LSP9T states <32 db. Which Tri-Lasers do you see with less fan noise? The Bomaker?


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## PapaSchlumpf

Ricoflashback said:


> ***If Tri-Color laser is your choice I believe the Vava Chroma will soon be released at $2,799 intro price. But that specs at <30 db noise level and the highly reviewed Samsung LSP9T states <32 db. Which Tri-Lasers do you see with less fan noise? The Bomaker?


The Polaris is 25db and 185w(what i can confirm), JMGO U2 is <28db and <200w. The BenQ claims 375w and 34db. Not sure why the Chroma needs <300w. All with ~2500 ANSI Lumen.


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## Ricoflashback

PapaSchlumpf said:


> The Polaris is 25db and 185w(what i can confirm), JMGO U2 is <28db and <200w. The BenQ claims 375w and 34db. Not sure why the Chroma needs <300w. All with ~2500 ANSI Lumen.


***Fan noise in Smart Eco, which I’ve always used, would be 29 db for the V7050i. That’s a push as far as I’m concerned and not a selling point of a Tri-Laser for me. Greener, for sure, with less wattage use. The largest Sony OLED (83”) clocks in at around 200 watts energy usage.

Back to my original point - you can buy the Polaris 4K but if anything goes wrong, you’re basically out the cost of the projector. Since Bomaker has no track record as a company and the projector has no reliability record - at least that I could find, that’s the risk you take. I do know that at one time, Amazon in the U.S. sold the Bomaker 4K Polaris. No longer. That’s a telltale sign for me.


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## Ricoflashback

***Incidentally - an interesting article on Bomaker, as a company. It looks like they OEM Hisense parts but have their own R & D Dept. 









Bomaker Polaris 4K ultra short throw laser projector review


A newcomer in the world of projectors wants to make a splash




www.techradar.com


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## Ideal1

If one is going to take a risk buying an UST from these smaller brands with little to no support, you might as well get the ones rated better in picture quality at a cheaper price like the Fengmi models IMO.


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## PapaSchlumpf

Ricoflashback said:


> ***Fan noise in Smart Eco, which I’ve always used, would be 29 db for the V7050i. That’s a push as far as I’m concerned and not a selling point of a Tri-Laser for me. Greener, for sure, with less wattage use. The largest Sony OLED (83”) clocks in at around 200 watts energy usage.


I'm sorry to say, but if you compare, you should not compare apples with pears. The BenQ has to *switch off XPR in Eco* and is therefor able to reduce the wattage. Haven't found anything on the brightness, but I'm sure this is reduced as well(I think it's 1.510 Ansi Lumen). The tri laser doesn't need to reduce anything to reach such values.
So if you are using the beamer on a daily basis in changing conditions and not only in a dark movie room ,max 200w compared to 375/500w(29db to 34db/?) is a massive difference. 
And 98% vs 151% DCI-P3 color gamut speaks for itself.
*Anyhow, we will not come to a consensus.*
For you support and a reliable brand is more important than the technology, For me it's vice versa. 
As you will not get any RGB laser from an established brand like Samsung, LG, BenQ... for <2k$ you have to make compromises.


----------



## PapaSchlumpf

Ricoflashback said:


> ***Incidentally - an interesting article on Bomaker, as a company. It looks like they OEM Hisense parts but have their own R & D Dept.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bomaker Polaris 4K ultra short throw laser projector review
> 
> 
> A newcomer in the world of projectors wants to make a splash
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.techradar.com


It's even more worse. The basis is a Hisense 75l9s ;-)





【测评】海信(Hisense) 75L9S_高清视频_影音中国


5万元以内级别75英寸RGB三 色4K激光电视海信(Hisense) 75L9S●参考价格：14999元



www.hdavchina.com




Not sure how much Bomaker did change. At least the firmware is their own. And they must have done something with the lens as the Hisense is a 75" fixed focus


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## Ricoflashback

PapaSchlumpf said:


> I'm sorry to say, but if you compare, you should not compare apples with pears. The BenQ has to *switch off XPR in Eco* and is therefor able to reduce the wattage. Haven't found anything on the brightness, but I'm sure this is reduced as well(I think it's 1.510 Ansi Lumen). The tri laser doesn't need to reduce anything to reach such values.
> So if you are using the beamer on a daily basis in changing conditions and not only in a dark movie room ,max 200w compared to 375/500w(29db to 34db/?) is a massive difference.
> And 98% vs 151% DCI-P3 color gamut speaks for itself.
> *Anyhow, we will not come to a consensus.*
> For you support and a reliable brand is more important than the technology, For me it's vice versa.
> As you will not get any RGB laser from an established brand like Samsung, LG, BenQ... for <2k$ you have to make compromises.


***I just don’t experience the 200w vs. the 375/500 watt difference (where did you get that?) that you are referring to. My BenQ’s have been extremely bright where I’ve always had to tone it down which also improves black levels. You are convinced of Tri-Laser superiority and all the stats you quote. Convinced enough to take a flyer on the Bomaker Polaris. Good for you. Knock yourself out. It’s not a purchase that I’d ever make.

I’ve read enough about the Samsung LSP9T and the “sparkles” that would dissuade me from that PJ. Plus - it’s in white, only, and I do not trust Samsung reliability anymore. If BenQ comes to the table with a Tri-Laser at a price range that makes sense, I’ll certainly look at it. I’ll augment my current projector viewing experience with the PXLVISION 4K (Darbee Effect) when it’s released (hopefully) later this year. I had the Darbee Darblet for my older 1080p projector and the picture improvement was stunning. Whatever floats your boat. If you have the Bomaker Polaris - - by all means, please keep us informed on how it’s working out.


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## PapaSchlumpf

Ricoflashback said:


> ***I just don’t experience the 200w vs. the 375/500 watt difference (where did you get that?) that you are referring to.


Just look at the specs of the BenQ ;-). V7050i Technische Daten
Sorry it's the german page of BenQ.
Typischer Stromverbrauch. Max 500W, Normal 375W, Eco 220W
Akustisches Rauschen (Typ./Eco.). 34/29dBA *(XPR off)*
So to reach the same fan noise /wattages as the Polaris or the JMGO U2 you have to revert to FullHd. For me this is outdated technology ;-)
if this is what you want to pay 1600$ extra for, go for it. Nobody is forcing you to buy the Polaris or U2... Even the new Vava Chroma has much better specs than the BenQ 7050i for 80% of its price.


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## Ricoflashback

PapaSchlumpf said:


> Just look at the specs of the BenQ ;-). V7050i Technische Daten
> Sorry it's the german page of BenQ.
> Typischer Stromverbrauch. Max 500W, Normal 375W, Eco 220W
> Akustisches Rauschen (Typ./Eco.). 34/29dBA *(XPR off)*
> So to reach the same fan noise /wattages as the Polaris or the JMGO U2 you have to revert to FullHd. For me this is outdated technology ;-)
> if this is what you want to pay 1600$ extra for, go for it. Nobody is forcing you to buy the Polaris or U2... Even the new Vava Chroma has much better specs than the BenQ 7050i for 80% of its price.


***No decision for me needs to be made for at least a year. So I'll see what's on the horizon. Honestly, the wattage doesn't mean anything to me as I'm more interested in the picture quality and how it looks to me. It's not like it's 500 watt drain and the Eco 220W provides a fantastic picture as far as I'm concerned. HDR is another story on projectors. But I'm not a huge HDR fan unless it's on my OLED TV. And even then, it's been oversold and underwhelming. Just give me a solid, high frame rate signal - even 1080p (preferably true 4K content, not fake 4K) and I'm happy.

Do you personally own the Bomaker Polaris? If not, what PJ do you have?


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## PapaSchlumpf

Yes, I own the Polaris. It has a fantastic picture quality. Unfortunately, the Roku Stick was missing in the delivery and it has some quality issues, therefore I decided to return it and give the JMGO U2 a try.


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## Ricoflashback

PapaSchlumpf said:


> Yes, I own the Polaris. It has a fantastic picture quality. Unfortunately, the Roku Stick was missing in the delivery and it has some quality issues, therefore I decided to return it and give the JMGO U2 a try.


***Why would you return a PJ if the picture quality was "fantastic," for a simple Roku Stick? That doesn't make any sense to me. I have a couple lying around the house. I would have sent you one - - probably a month to receive? Just kidding. I use the Nvidia Shield TV Pro. And, a regular Roku Ultra (no DV for too dark DV content.) The Nvidia Shield has a great, backlit remote. Works like a champ. I thought the JMGO U2 wasn't available yet? At least that's what their website says here. Nice specs! I rely on Projectorcentral.com in the U.S. for reviews but I haven't seen any by them on this PJ. They have reviewed other JMGO projectors.

One other comment - - how is the out of the box colors on the Polaris & other PJ's like this? Calibration needed? 

Interesting way of funding these ventures via Indiegogo.









Crowdfund Innovations & Support Entrepreneurs


Crowdfund innovations in tech and design before they go mainstream and support entrepreneurs that are working to bring their dreams to life.




www.indiegogo.com





P.S. - on JMGO's website - - *2400 ANSI Lumens Brightness：* Boasts a peak brightness of 3600 ANSI lumens using Fresnel screen with a gain of 1.5. *Comment: *Fresnel screens are known to provide that "halo" effect on your ceiling versus lenticular screens with UST Projectors. That would be a major annoyance, IMHO.


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## PapaSchlumpf

The missing Roku Stick was one part, my wife another ;-) 
She did not like the big black box. If there wouldn't be the alternative with the U2 for the same price, but more functions and a better WAF, I would have kept the Polaris.
The color was not perfect out of the box, but with the config provided by someone here in the forum it was really good.


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## PapaSchlumpf

Ricoflashback said:


> P.S. - on JMGO's website - - *2400 ANSI Lumens Brightness：* Boasts a peak brightness of 3600 ANSI lumens using Fresnel screen with a gain of 1.5. *Comment: *Fresnel screens are known to provide that "halo" effect on your ceiling versus lenticular screens with UST Projectors. That would be a major annoyance, IMHO.


Yes, they produced a demo video and you could see the halo on the ceiling in a quite bright room. Definitely a down site of that screen and a reason for me not to purchase it.


----------



## LesterJ

PapaSchlumpf said:


> The missing Roku Stick was one part, my wife another ;-)
> She did not like the big black box. If there wouldn't be the alternative with the U2 for the same price, but more functions and a better WAF, I would have kept the Polaris.
> The color was not perfect out of the box, but with the config provided by someone here in the forum it was really good.


I agree. The color is incredible for this price point. Some have complained about the black levels, but they're plenty good in my opinion. As long as you pair it with a good CLR screen, it's got great contrast. Color range is more important to me though than OLED level blacks. I would take this image over an OLED because if you have any bit of light in a room with an OLED, those nice infinite blacks will get muddied by reflections anyway.


----------



## LesterJ

I can definitely confirm that their customer service is not great. When the projector first got here, one of the pixel mirrors must have been stuck because there was a block of 4 pixels in the section where black bars usually are that were stuck white. After a day of use, it must have worked its way loose and come unstuck and works fine now, but before that happened I sent an email to their customer support with a picture of the problem. They responded quickly that same night asking me how large my screen was and how far away I placed the projector from the wall. I said I didn't see how that was relevant but provide them with those details regardless. Then several days passed with no word from them. Even though the issue resolved itself from break-in, I figured I'd not tell them yet to see how they'd respond. I sent them another email asking if they were going to follow up on it and I still haven't heard back from them. So ya, I get the hesitancy of purchasing from them because of customer service. You can usually buy with confidence knowing that paypal or the credit card company will refund you eventually if Bomaker doesn't do their part but that process can take time. If they become too much of a problem PayPal and credit card companies will probably start refusing them and then they'll have some real motivation to get things inline on their customer support. I'm glad my issue went away, fingers crossed I don't have any others.


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## PapaSchlumpf

For me it took ~1.5weeks until I got my Money back from PayPal. The funny thing is, that even with the refund performed by PayPal Bomaker does not react. 
It's now 2.5 weeks ago I got my Money back and the Polaris is boxed and waiting to be shipped back


----------



## Ricoflashback

PapaSchlumpf said:


> For me it took ~1.5weeks until I got my Money back from PayPal. The funny thing is, that even with the refund performed by PayPal Bomaker does not react.
> It's now 2.5 weeks ago I got my Money back and the Polaris is boxed and waiting to be shipped back


***Out of curiosity, do you have to pay for the Polaris being shipped back? And where do you send it - - China? What's the cost on that? I've never shipped anything to China and suspect that it will be a different carrier that UPS.

If they never contact you, it looks like you got your Polaris for free. A spare projector.

On a side note - - if I purchase any electronics from China - - it will be from Amazon.com or a U.S. Distributor. I made the mistake of ordering a cheap China telescope that had crazy specs (much like the see through glasses when you were younger that could look through women's clothes and see them naked) and it was a total piece of junk. It was nothing like they said it was - imagine that. I had to fight PayPal to get a refund by filing a BBB Claim and I eventually got my money back. When I contacted the vendor earlier, they said they'd refund half the price or ship it back to China for a full refund. Right - - the cost of the shipping would have wiped out any refund. Lesson learned.


----------



## PapaSchlumpf

Ricoflashback said:


> ***Out of curiosity, do you have to pay for the Polaris being shipped back? And where do you send it - - China?
> 
> If they never contact you, it looks like you got your Polaris for free. A spare projector.


To be honest, I have no clue  
I asked them several times to send the return address without success. I assume that I can ship it either to the german warehouse or in worst case the Italien warehouse where it initially came from. 
Anyhow, as I got my money back already, I have time and will not accept a shipment to China.
Not sure how long they could request the Polaris back until It's mine.


----------



## Ricoflashback

PapaSchlumpf said:


> To be honest, I have no clue
> I asked them several times to send the return address without success. I assume that I can ship it either to the german warehouse or in worst case the Italien warehouse where it initially came from.
> Anyhow, as I got my money back already, I have time and will not accept a shipment to China.
> Not sure how long they could request the Polaris back until It's mine.


***I graduated pre-law in college. Or was it pre-med? I don't remember. 

Remember the old saying - possession is nine-tenths of the law. In today's environment, it's a full ten-ten. Enjoy. No pressure on you.


----------



## PapaSchlumpf

Ricoflashback said:


> ***I graduated pre-law in college. Or was it pre-med? I don't remember.
> 
> Remember the old saying - possession is nine-tenths of the law. In today's environment, it's a full ten-ten. Enjoy. No pressure on you.


Unfortunately my english is not good enough  
What does it mean for me?


----------



## Ricoflashback

PapaSchlumpf said:


> Unfortunately my english is not good enough
> What does it mean for me?


***I speak over 200 languages - with google search. You’re good!

Ich habe Jura am College abgeschlossen. Oder war es Prämedikation? Ich erinnere mich nicht.

Erinnern Sie sich an das alte Sprichwort - Besitz ist neun Zehntel des Gesetzes. In der heutigen Umgebung sind es volle zehn zu zehn. Genießen. Kein Druck auf dich.

P.S. - your English writing looks excellent to me.


----------



## PapaSchlumpf

Ricoflashback said:


> ***I speak over 200 languages - with google search. You’re good!
> 
> Ich habe Jura am College abgeschlossen. Oder war es Prämedikation? Ich erinnere mich nicht.
> 
> Erinnern Sie sich an das alte Sprichwort - Besitz ist neun Zehntel des Gesetzes. In der heutigen Umgebung sind es volle zehn zu zehn. Genießen. Kein Druck auf dich.


I'm able to use Google Translator ;-)
The problem is that the one to one translation does not make sense to me. I'm not sure what you want to say with it.
A saying does loos it content when you translate it one to one.


----------



## Ricoflashback

PapaSchlumpf said:


> I'm able to use Google Translator ;-)
> The problem is that the one to one translation does not make sense to me. I'm not sure what you want to say with it.
> A saying does loos it content when you translate it one to one.


***Bomaker besizt ist alles. Possession is everything.


----------



## PapaSchlumpf

Ricoflashback said:


> ***Bomaker besizt ist alles. Possession is everything.


Not sure if this is applicable. 
With the refund, I'm not owner of the device anymore, so I can't do with it what ever I want.
Anyhow, it's on Bomaker to do the next step.


----------



## Neil A

I purchased my Bomaker last fall/before it was offered by Amazon. I spent 30 minutes of frustration getting it to be a perfectly aligned at 100”. I did not purchase a screen, just projecting it off a medium grey painted wall and the lights out. I tried connecting to my network through a Ethernet cable, but the connection was broken. I wrote to support twice, but no answer. Ok, I use WiFi, no big deal. But, I realized then and from this forum I would never get service. Here’s the thing, the Bomaker 4K IMHO is worth $3K based on having three lasers, it being super quiet, giving off almost no heat and most importantly a GREAT picture. Key to that was the settings provided by a forum user IanLaurie. So, the bottom line is that while I am unhappy with no service, it’s too good to send back. I hope it lasts ten years and the risk I took will have been worth it.


----------



## PapaSchlumpf

Neil A said:


> I purchased my Bomaker last fall/before it was offered by Amazon. I spent 30 minutes of frustration getting it to be a perfectly aligned at 100”. I did not purchase a screen, just projecting it off a medium grey painted wall and the lights out. I tried connecting to my network through a Ethernet cable, but the connection was broken. I wrote to support twice, but no answer. Ok, I use WiFi, no big deal. But, I realized then and from this forum I would never get service. Here’s the thing, the Bomaker 4K IMHO is worth $3K based on having three lasers, it being super quiet, giving off almost no heat and most importantly a GREAT picture. Key to that was the settings provided by a forum user IanLaurie. So, the bottom line is that while I am unhappy with no service, it’s too good to send back. I hope it lasts ten years and the risk I took will have been worth it.


I fully agree with you, if there wouldn't be the awful WAF and the alternative of the U2, i would have kept it as well.


----------



## Ricoflashback

***Out of curiosity, any sparkles or shimmer with your Tri-Laser Projector - - those of you that have the Bomaker or other Tri-Laser PJ? There is no perfect TV or Projector but there are issues that cannot be corrected. Lastly - "And 98% vs 151% DCI-P3 color gamut speaks for itself" doesn't necessarily mean the picture quality is better or more pleasing to the eye. Or, what the eye can discern. 

I think the biggest issue for projectors, at least in this price range, is black levels. To that end, Seymour AV has some pretty interesting solutions (Visionaire) that I'd like to see in future UST offerings - - if possible with a lenticular screen. Also - - from everything I've researched, the Grandview Dynamique seems to be at the top of the screen list, price performance wise. A good screen should last you, what, ten years, at least? You'll probably replace your projector before then. Maybe in five years, UST Projectors will have horizontal and vertical lens shift for ease of setup.


----------



## LesterJ

Ricoflashback said:


> ***Out of curiosity, any sparkles or shimmer with your Tri-Laser Projector - - those of you that have the Bomaker or other Tri-Laser PJ? There is no perfect TV or Projector but there are issues that cannot be corrected. Lastly - "And 98% vs 151% DCI-P3 color gamut speaks for itself" doesn't necessarily mean the picture quality is better or more pleasing to the eye. Or, what the eye can discern.
> 
> I think the biggest issue for projectors, at least in this price range, is black levels. To that end, Seymour AV has some pretty interesting solutions (Visionaire) that I'd like to see in future UST offerings - - if possible with a lenticular screen. Also - - from everything I've researched, the Grandview Dynamique seems to be at the top of the screen list, price performance wise. A good screen should last you, what, ten years, at least? You'll probably replace your projector before then. Maybe in five years, UST Projectors will have horizontal and vertical lens shift for ease of setup.


If you're close to the screen and move your head side to side you'll see a sparkly effect in the whites. But sitting still at viewing distances it's not apparent to me. Not sure how much of the sparkle is from the projector or if the CLR screen cause it as well.


----------



## Ricoflashback

LesterJ said:


> If you're close to the screen and move your head side to side you'll see a sparkly effect in the whites. But sitting still at viewing distances it's not apparent to me. Not sure how much of the sparkle is from the projector or if the CLR screen cause it as well.


***Good observation. I think UST Projectors are more finicky than regular PJ’s and need optimized screens due to the angle and proximity to the screen itself. I know the technology is going to get better and better as this is a real growth market, IMHO, and it’s a great way to have that big screen experience in a multipurpose or living room. Especially for folks that are downsizing or do not have the room for a dedicated home theater.


----------



## Matty_B

You're very fortunate if you get a good photo. Like many others; the Bomaker Polaris that I received is JUNK!
The company was quick to reply when the item was shipping but not now.
So I have begun the process of hurting them where it counts; their pocket book with the assistance of my financial institution and my MasterCard.


----------



## Matty_B

grimslade said:


> I’m getting updating AMP information. It’s slightly irritating. To the fellow above with an untensioned 180” screen—there is no way you’re going to get good results without at least some kind of tab tensioning. And obviously a fixed screen would be better but I understand that’s not an option for you. It isn’t for me either but I just switched to a tab tension and it’s worlds better. I would like an ALR but I don’t want to spend as much as I just dropped on the projector for that right now.





Loicparis said:


> sorry i try to ask my right for Return but they don‘t Care and do it nothing , the Bild is not sharp , support can you forget, I can not used and RMA you can forget! Really shame when you support and service not here 😞


THEY DOWNRIGHT


Loicparis said:


> sorry i try to ask my right for Return but they don‘t Care and do it nothing , the Bild is not sharp , support can you forget, I can not used and RMA you can forget! Really shame when you support and service not here 😞





laserdiscguy said:


> Sorry for the delay. Here's a few photos of it projected onto a lightly painted wall.
> 
> View attachment 3091532
> 
> 
> View attachment 3091533
> 
> 
> View attachment 3091534
> 
> 
> View attachment 3091535


How does anyone see this as a good image?
Have you seen mine? They’re horrific.


----------



## Ideal1

@Matty_B 
Were you able to try the picture settings suggested in this thread and use the Bomaker with an ALR/CLR screen?


----------



## laserdiscguy

Matty_B said:


> THEY DOWNRIGHT
> 
> 
> 
> How does anyone see this as a good image?
> Have you seen mine? They’re horrific.


Something is definitely not right there. Just looking at the photos you posted showing the entire projected image, it almost seems like there's a plastic film on the glass above the laser or something because the image is very distorted. Have you tried cleaning the glass or seeing if it's covered with a thin film of plastic? Whatever is affecting the image, it's so bad that the bands of light fanning out from the bottom of the image make it look like it's being projected onto a sheet or curtain.

Anyway, it's pretty alarming if Bomaker hasn't provided you with any suggestions on how to fix it or offered to replace the projector. That sort of behaviour would certainly make me reconsider purchasing anything from them in the future.


----------



## blazed

I was under the impression that native 4k projectors cost around $5,000 or more. How is this one a lot less expensive? Thanks


----------



## humax

blazed said:


> I was under the impression that native 4k projectors cost around $5,000 or more. How is this one a lot less expensive? Thanks



Because it is not a native 4k projector, but a pixel-shifting one with a 1080 native dmd, which pixel-shifts the image 4 times in order to produce a 4k-like image. This one also has the advantage of being rgb laser.


----------



## blazed

humax said:


> Because it is not a native 4k projector, but a pixel-shifting one with a 1080 native dmd, which pixel-shifts the image 4 times in order to produce a 4k-like image. This one also has the advantage of being rgb laser.


Thank you sir!


----------



## dbker85

I have a question: can anyone tell me what the height is from the top of the projector to the bottom of screen on 80”, 90” and 100” screens


----------



## laserdiscguy

dbker85 said:


> I have a question: can anyone tell me what the height is from the top of the projector to the bottom of screen on 80”, 90” and 100” screens


For my 100" screen, it's about 9.25" from the top of the projector to the bottom of the screen. Horizontally, the back of the projector is about 1 foot from the wall.


----------



## hypnotoad2500

Hello! I was just wondering...Does anyone else's Polaris have a curve/bow at the top? At first I thought it was because my screen (Fengmi ALR screen) was bowed....But then I moved the projector closer and to the left and noticed the same pattern, which is geometrically impossible if the screen was bowed in the middle. I would fix it with keystone correction but unfortunately that's not an option on this projector.


----------



## Raytraceme

So I find this highly irritating and humbug but 422 just doesn't seem to work with Shield at 10bit even at 30hz. Keeps showing 8bit on the projector. My laptop oth shows 444 10/12bit at 30hz on the projector. What could be the issue? The projector or the Shield?


----------



## hypnotoad2500

Raytraceme said:


> So I find this highly irritating and humbug but 422 just doesn't seem to work with Shield at 10bit even at 30hz. Keeps showing 8bit on the projector. My laptop oth shows 444 10/12bit at 30hz on the projector. What could be the issue? The projector or the Shield?


Did you make sure the HDMI cable is rated for 2.0? My Chromecast with Google tv and gaming PC both do 12 bit at 4K 60hz


----------



## Transepoch

hypnotoad2500 said:


> Hello! I was just wondering...Does anyone else's Polaris have a curve/bow at the top? At first I thought it was because my screen (Fengmi ALR screen) was bowed....But then I moved the projector closer and to the left and noticed the same pattern, which is geometrically impossible if the screen was bowed in the middle. I would fix it with keystone correction but unfortunately that's not an option on this projector.


Putting aside physical defects, it should mean you need to tilt the projector/lens up, such that the front is higher. Did you try playing with that?


----------



## hypnotoad2500

Transepoch said:


> Putting aside physical defects, it should mean you need to tilt the projector/lens up, such that the front is higher. Did you try playing with that?





Transepoch said:


> Putting aside physical defects, it should mean you need to tilt the projector/lens up, such that the front is higher. Did you try playing with that?


Yeah, a bunch of times. I could get the top to flatten out, but at that angle the sides aren't even close to straight and image becomes a trapezoidal shape. Still no reply from Bomaker. It was a Holiday on Monday, so I'm going to give it another day before reaching out to them again. I would have gladly fixed it with software keystone but they didn't give me that option. I've had a Xiaomi 4k laser projector before and that machine made perfectly straight borders. (And had keystone correction to boot)


----------



## spexman

I am interested in this 'unique' projector and have read through the threads for information. Still have a few questions--if you guys can help out, it would be much appreciated.
1)It appears it has no adjustable focus--is it safe to assume that it has 'automatic' focus such that it will focus the image depending on where the projector is placed? Or is it perfectly focused at a set distance and gets less ideal as one moves the projector from that set distance?
2)Has someone made an actual contrast ratio measurement and lumen measurement with a sensor? If so, can they tell us their result(s)?
3)How effective is the dynamic contrast feature in terms of helping increase the contrast ratio and in regards to it being transparent without pumping issues?
4)Does it do 24p as native or does it convert to 60p?
5)Does it suffer from noticeable laser speckle?

Thank you in advance.


----------



## hypnotoad2500

spexman said:


> I am interested in this 'unique' projector and have read through the threads for information. Still have a few questions--if you guys can help out, it would be much appreciated.
> 1)It appears it has no adjustable focus--is it safe to assume that it has 'automatic' focus such that it will focus the image depending on where the projector is placed? Or is it perfectly focused at a set distance and gets less ideal as one moves the projector from that set distance?
> 2)Has someone made an actual contrast ratio measurement and lumen measurement with a sensor? If so, can they tell us their result(s)?
> 3)How effective is the dynamic contrast feature in terms of helping increase the contrast ratio and in regards to it being transparent without pumping issues?
> 4)Does it do 24p as native or does it convert to 60p?
> 5)Does it suffer from noticeable laser speckle?
> 
> Thank you in advance.


1)It's pre-focused and there is no adjustment, at least none that I know of from outside the unit. I use it on a 100" screen and it's perfectly focused.
2)I don't have any measurements, but this thing is wicked bright. I used to have the Xiaomi 4k projector, which was already bright enough for my apartment in daytime (With an ALR screen of course). The Polaris is MUCH brighter in comparison. I almost thought it was a scam, because it says it's half the wattage of the Xiaomi but sure enough it's 100% true.
3)Not sure about this one. I've turned that feature off just because I don't want it messing with my settings dynamically.
4)I haven't tested this, but I've seen an advance review of the JMGO U2, which has identical hardware and they said it doesn't do it native. I could be wrong about that, so don't take my word 100% on this
5)In my use case, sitting about 10 ft away, projecting to an ALR screen, I speckling is very minimal. I only notice it when the picture is all white and it's on high brightness in a dark setting. I'm assuming people complaining about speckling are possibly projecting onto a wall with glossy paint or are extra sensitive to the lasers. Mine has been used by myself, my girlfriend, my mom, and a few friends and none of them had any complaints. They all said was just like watching a massive, super bright LED TV

Hope this helps!


----------



## spexman

hyptotoad2500,thank you, your feedback is helpful and much appreciated. If I can ask you a few more questions:
1)I had the suspicion that it is fixed focus, sadly; it is actually quite 'mind boggling' that they would advertise it as an 80"-200" projector--theoretcially, only one distance is in focus optimally and so should be sold for that distance only; it begs the question(actually two questions)--for what distance/screen size is it actually set optimally for, and, how good is the depth of focus(or in other words, how much does the image suffer from blur when we move away from that optimal distance? I suspect you have meticulously placed yours and would rather not answer that question ....my screen size is 150", so the question is not just out of curiosity.
2)Can you comment on black level? I know we are not talking OLED blacks by any means, but, say compared to your previous Xiaomi?(and if you can let me know what the model of the Xiaomi was, it would be very helpful to give me a reference)
3)Would you be able to measure the diameter of the light spot that is coming out of the projector lens?
4)The site says a 100" image is projected 9.1" from the floor(or possibly from the top of the projector)--is that true for you?

I appreciate your help as I have gotten no where with the site's online help.


----------



## hypnotoad2500

spexman said:


> hyptotoad2500,thank you, your feedback is helpful and much appreciated. If I can ask you a few more questions:
> 1)I had the suspicion that it is fixed focus, sadly; it is actually quite 'mind boggling' that they would advertise it as an 80"-200" projector--theoretcially, only one distance is in focus optimally and so should be sold for that distance only; it begs the question(actually two questions)--for what distance/screen size is it actually set optimally for, and, how good is the depth of focus(or in other words, how much does the image suffer from blur when we move away from that optimal distance? I suspect you have meticulously placed yours and would rather not answer that question ....my screen size is 150", so the question is not just out of curiosity.
> 2)Can you comment on black level? I know we are not talking OLED blacks by any means, but, say compared to your previous Xiaomi?(and if you can let me know what the model of the Xiaomi was, it would be very helpful to give me a reference)
> 3)Would you be able to measure the diameter of the light spot that is coming out of the projector lens?
> 4)The site says a 100" image is projected 9.1" from the floor(or possibly from the top of the projector)--is that true for you?
> 
> I appreciate your help as I have gotten no where with the site's online help.


1) yeah they have no business advertising it that way. I would say the ideal screen size is around 100". Others on here have said the edges start to blur after 120" . If you're brave and curious enough, you can open up the projector and see if there's a focus adjustment knob. Others on here have said there's a hidden one on the Hisense model the Bomaker is based on. 
2) It's hard to compare black levels because I haven't seen it in a while, but because it was dimmer it may seem darker? The model I had was xmjgtyds01fm, which was the global version with Android tv built in. Keep in mind, black levels will depend on screen type, ambient light, and picture settings. Alr screens will give you the best results. 
3) I'm not sure what you mean by "light spot". When my girlfriend takes a big bong hit, the smoke pillows to the projector and you get this awesome laser/light show. They are cone shaped so the diameter increase as it gets away from the source. Looking into the projector, you see the lense and a mirror. 
4) in my case, the screen is 15.5 inches above the surface the projector is on (Tv stand). That number can be adjusted a little because it has 4 adjustable feet. The light source is recessed into the machine, it doesn't come out of the very top of it.

Hope this helps!


----------



## Crap I broke it again

I tried using the bomaker to project a 120" scope screen, which equates to around a 150" 16:9 screen with the black bars. At that size, the image definitely suffered a little, but not much. I didn't notice much blurring at the edges but there was some issues with sharpness. My biggest issue was that the black levels, which were already not great, really washed together. Watching something with a lot of black, like Black Widow or Titans (especially Titans) felt like watching a lot of silhouettes on the screen since their uniforms are so dark. It was already not great on a 100" 16:9 screen . I was able to get to around a 120" 16:9 screen size before that started to get really bad. This is in my basement with zero ambient light.

I bought the bomaker because I'm just dipping my toes into the home theater world and I didn't want to spend big on something I may not like. Right now it's perfect for my needs but I am sure there are better projectors out there for my room once it's completed. My ceiling is only 6'10" and the room is only 11.5' wide. The bomaker can pull it off but it sits only a few inches above the floor.


----------



## altron3k

I purchased this from amazon and was using a normal [email protected] pulldown screen. I only noticed later ( AFTER i got a fixed UST ALR screen ) that the projector had small strange smudges/ lines on one corner (looks like perhaps the lens or glass was touched inside). tried to contact them - and they basically ignored me. reached out to amazon and they no longer even carry the product. Its good for what it is (1800-1900$) but the support is non existent. and i have not seen a firmware update SINCE launch....


----------



## hypnotoad2500

altron3k said:


> I purchased this from amazon and was using a normal [email protected] pulldown screen. I only noticed later ( AFTER i got a fixed UST ALR screen ) that the projector had small strange smudges/ lines on one corner (looks like perhaps the lens or glass was touched inside). tried to contact them - and they basically ignored me. reached out to amazon and they no longer even carry the product. Its good for what it is (1800-1900$) but the support is non existent. and i have not seen a firmware update SINCE launch....


Could you post a picture of your issue? I'm just curious. Also, I had a lot of trouble getting them to respond when I first sent them a message. What helped was sending them the same message using their website's chat feature. It won't be an actual chat, it will ask you your email and will continue that way, but for some reason that was how I got them to respond. Just wrote out "Hi, I messaged you guys x days ago and didn't receive a reply. Here's the email I sent ....(copy paste email)" Hope they do the right thing


----------



## altron3k

hypnotoad2500 said:


> Could you post a picture of your issue? I'm just curious. Also, I had a lot of trouble getting them to respond when I first sent them a message. What helped was sending them the same message using their website's chat feature. It won't be an actual chat, it will ask you your email and will continue that way, but for some reason that was how I got them to respond. Just wrote out "Hi, I messaged you guys x days ago and didn't receive a reply. Here's the email I sent ....(copy paste email)" Hope they do the right thing


sure no prob- its only really visible in solid bright colors. however me being ocd it does become obvious ALOT of the time while viewing movies (letterbox is better cuz black bars hide it) . i've definitely tried all means as well as even having amazon be involved. no responses.


----------



## 3rd Eye Projection

I bought the Polaris 4k in







January. There's a white permanent dot, kind of like a dead pixel on the projection now. See photos. Is this a mirror issue? Is there a reset or software fix? Thanks for any thoughts!







in


----------



## sunil2linus

Hello all, I am planning to get bomaker projector, however I do not see any user reviews at all on YouTube. Can any of the current users post a video review of daytime and night time viewing with HDR and SDR content. This would be really helpful for me to decide. Thank you in advance.


----------



## Crap I broke it again

altron3k said:


> sure no prob- its only really visible in solid bright colors. however me being ocd it does become obvious ALOT of the time while viewing movies (letterbox is better cuz black bars hide it) . i've definitely tried all means as well as even having amazon be involved. no responses.
> 
> View attachment 3190368


Have you tried projecting onto any other surface to see if it's definitely the projector? When I look at the pic you posted, it looks to me more like the screen itself has imperfections in that area. UST are really good at highlighting those because of the steep projection angle.


----------



## MarkM78

Crap I broke it again said:


> Have you tried projecting onto any other surface to see if it's definitely the projector?


I was going to suggest the same thing, an easy way to check would be to just shift the screen left or right (if you can slide it) or pivot the projector and see if the dot follows the projected image or if the dot follows the screen.


----------



## altron3k

Crap I broke it again said:


> Have you tried projecting onto any other surface to see if it's definitely the projector? When I look at the pic you posted, it looks to me more like the screen itself has imperfections in that area. UST are really good at highlighting those because of the steep projection angle.


thanks for the suggestions, that was the first thing i did when i noticed the flaw. I moved the projector around and the flaw followed motion. projected to another wall. used different screens etc. errors show up and move with the projector still there too. definitely something on the optics end (my theory is finger smudge/ dirt stain on glass INSIDE surface. ive used camera cleaning devices/solutions on the glass - no dice).


----------



## altron3k

3rd Eye Projection said:


> I bought the Polaris 4k in
> View attachment 3193133
> January. There's a white permanent dot, kind of like a dead pixel on the projection now. See photos. Is this a mirror issue? Is there a reset or software fix? Thanks for any thoughts!
> View attachment 3193134
> in


i'd definitely return that if its still possible. Bomaker WILL NOT fix any issues - nor will they honor any replacements for errors.


----------



## hypnotoad2500

sunil2linus said:


> Hello all, I am planning to get bomaker projector, however I do not see any user reviews at all on YouTube. Can any of the current users post a video review of daytime and night time viewing with HDR and SDR content. This would be really helpful for me to decide. Thank you in advance.


Here's a video of what it looks like in my apartment during a bright, sunny day on a 100" ALR screen
Bomaker Video Example
You can see the reflection from the windows on the screen in the dark sections. I personally love how it performs, even during the day. Of course it doesn't do as well with darker scenes until you turn the lights down. Also keep in mind, that the colors are a little off due to the magenta tint phone cameras show that aren't seen by the human eye in person


----------



## Aktran9

Hi all,
Am new here. I bought this projector during the indiegogo promotion. I have been having issues with the screen. It would blur out on the right side very so often and now happening daily. Times where the right side is completely white out. I reached out to their support since 10/24. Sent out like 8 emails and got 1 response. Nothing since. Am trying toj get some warranty/answers and not getting any responses what so ever. Please help guys. Am stuck with a $2k brick


----------



## Aktran9

Here is another picture of the blurriness am talking about


----------



## bix26

Aktran9 said:


> Hi all,
> Am new here. I bought this projector during the indiegogo promotion. I have been having issues with the screen. It would blur out on the right side very so often and now happening daily. Times where the right side is completely white out. I reached out to their support since 10/24. Sent out like 8 emails and got 1 response. Nothing since. Am trying toj get some warranty/answers and not getting any responses what so ever. Please help guys. Am stuck with a $2k brick
> View attachment 3199848


You might try reaching out to your credit card company. Most credit cards offer a warranty on electronics purchases. Also, if the company is refusing to acknowledge an issue or honor their warranty you might be able to request a buyback.


----------



## Aktran9

bix26 said:


> You might try reaching out to your credit card company. Most credit cards offer a warranty on electronics purchases. Also, if the company is refusing to acknowledge an issue or honor their warranty you might be able to request a buyback.



I reached out to Costco, which unfortunately is not helpful citing that am still under warranty with Bomaker, which the warranty won't expire until April 2022. Frustrating because Bomaker won't respond at all and am stuck with a brick.


----------



## Aktran9

Aktran9 said:


> I reached out to Costco, which unfortunately is not helpful citing that am still under warranty with Bomaker, which the warranty won't expire until April 2022. Frustrating because Bomaker won't respond at all and am stuck with a brick. How do I request a buyback?


----------



## IanLaurie

Capt Ace said:


> Bomaker Polaris Support has seen this thread and I can prove it.
> 
> 
> 
> I just got my Bomaker a couple days ago. I noticed the chromatic aberration, or red shadow as some of you described. This issue is quite distracting when watching any content, so I contacted support to troubleshoot and maybe get a replacement/refund.
> 
> After referencing my issues with CA (red shadow), they sent me the EXACT COLOR SETTINGS IanLaurie has fine-tuned to best suit his needs. This is troubling on multiple accounts for me, but I'm awaiting their next reply when I provided pictures that have the same chromatic aberration issues. My guess why this is an issue is that most of these projectors have a similar lens or laser defect. It's difficult to get precise pinpoint resolution clarity no doubt, but I think every Polaris is affected by it. (some of us just aren't resolution snobs like me.)
> 
> This would also be a good time to reference Bomaker's website return policy. It states you can only request a return within 48 hours of receiving the product and if it isn't of the quality you expected, they won't charge you for shipping it back. I'm glad I fit that window, but I have a feeling they won't honor that...
> 
> So to the Bomaker lurker here...I'm watching you. Always watching.


For the record, I do not work for bomaker, or any other electronics company for that matter. However, they did reach out regarding my settings and thanked me for trying to help people on this forum. I have also modified my settings since that post (though I may have updated it and forgot.) but regardless I am not a spy. I used to work in filmmaking, and then spent the last 8 years running a natural gas plant. While them recommending my settings is both flattering and concerning, that’s all it is.


----------



## IanLaurie

I had a similar thing on mine it was kind of in the top right of the screen for me. I assumed it was the projector lens, but one day I decided to clean my alr screen according to the instructions (wipe side to side, one direction, dry lint free cloth) and I haven’t seen the “smudge” since. Think it has to do with the alr material.


----------



## IanLaurie

altron3k said:


> sure no prob- its only really visible in solid bright colors. however me being ocd it does become obvious ALOT of the time while viewing movies (letterbox is better cuz black bars hide it) . i've definitely tried all means as well as even having amazon be involved. no responses.
> 
> View attachment 3190368


That last comment was for you. Forgot to take the quote.


----------



## Vinimaw

Hello all ! New member here 

I bought the Polaris a few weeks ago and so far i'm quite happy with my purchase.
BUT i have a really hard time to adjust the color grading, I tried the setup shared in this thread but It was really off.
I managed to find a good balance but I still have two issues :

In some images where there are some white/glow it's really buggy. It has been mostly fixed with an HDR set on the minimum (image below)
With every color set in the 50 (average setting) the red are still too flashy and I don't find a solution for it (i'll get a picture to demonstrate that)

Do you know where it could come from ?

Thanks !


----------



## altron3k

IanLaurie said:


> I had a similar thing on mine it was kind of in the top right of the screen for me. I assumed it was the projector lens, but one day I decided to clean my alr screen according to the instructions (wipe side to side, one direction, dry lint free cloth) and I haven’t seen the “smudge” since. Think it has to do with the alr material.


indeed- thank you for your settings- i used them quite awhile ago when this projector was first purchased! indeed i've done all the screen cleanings etc- as mentioned in previous replies. these smudges move along with the projected image so its definitely something internal within the optics/lenses. i've given up on fixing the errors and might just have to claim cc waranty as soon as the year is up. otherwise this thing was a great bargain for the picture qual.


----------



## IanLaurie

altron3k said:


> indeed- thank you for your settings- i used them quite awhile ago when this projector was first purchased! indeed i've done all the screen cleanings etc- as mentioned in previous replies. these smudges move along with the projected image so its definitely something internal within the optics/lenses. i've given up on fixing the errors and might just have to claim cc waranty as soon as the year is up. otherwise this thing was a great bargain for the picture qual.


Dang that’s a bummer. Once the warrantee is up (and you get your money back) I would look into opening it up and using a lens tissue on the inside.


----------



## Rvarma

https://www.walmart.com/ip/997798185



This one is getting for 1750$ and Walmart 4 years additional warranty for 77$ , is it worth it to pull the plug with not great support in place?


----------



## IanLaurie

Rvarma said:


> https://www.walmart.com/ip/997798185
> 
> 
> 
> This one is getting for 1750$ and Walmart 4 years additional warranty for 77$ , is it worth it to pull the plug with not great support in place?


If you can return it to Walmart if you get a dud, you can’t go wrong.


----------



## Rvarma

IanLaurie said:


> If you can return it to Walmart if you get a dud, you can’t go wrong.


Just ordered one, getting it on Dec 3rd , hoping for the best, looking forward to calibrate with your settings.


----------



## lattiboy

It’s $1750 at Walmart and you can return to store AND you can get a 4 year extended warranty for $79. I’m incredibly tempted…..


----------



## lattiboy

Well, I pulled the trigger! 90 day free IN STORE returns and a 4 year AllState protection plan for $78 extra. So I figure I’m pretty covered for any defects.

I have the Hisense 120L5F and plan on using the Hisense (OEM 120” CLR from Elite Screens) screen with the Bomaker.

I’ve owned and taken pictures of the LG HU810p and the L5F, so I hope I can give some good comparisons between other laser options out there.

I am fully aware Bomaker appears to be a scam company, But if I can get a Hisense L9 for under $1750 I’ll be a happy camper.

I currently use a Roku Ultra, but will be picking up an Apple TV so I can avoid the HDR unpleasantness many PJs have. The HU810P was practically unusable with HDR, but the L5 actually tone maps really well.


----------



## taywu

I got my delivery from Walmart yesterday, plugged it in and projected to a wall, all seems to be working well. I didn't get any protection plans though, I may regret it.


----------



## lattiboy

taywu said:


> I got my delivery from Walmart yesterday, plugged it in and projected to a wall, all seems to be working well. I didn't get any protection plans though, I may regret it.


Excited to hear your impressions! I think you can add protection within 30 days of purchase.


----------



## taywu

lattiboy said:


> Excited to hear your impressions! I think you can add protection within 30 days of purchase.


I haven't had a projector for years when I had a 720P projector so can't really compare to other 4k projectors but out of the box it's pretty saturated with redish skin tones on my wall. Overall picture is sharp and bright. I'm pretty happy with it so far for the price. I don't really care about the software, I'll be using it with a Fire TV stick anyway. I'll follow up after I get my screen, currently looking at a Chinese ALR PET Crystal type screen. Look forward to your impressions when you get it.


----------



## lattiboy

taywu said:


> I haven't had a projector for years when I had a 720P projector so can't really compare to other 4k projectors but out of the box it's pretty saturated with redish skin tones on my wall. Overall picture is sharp and bright. I'm pretty happy with it so far for the price. I don't really care about the software, I'll be using it with a Fire TV stick anyway. I'll follow up after I get my screen, currently looking at a Chinese ALR PET Crystal type screen. Look forward to your impressions when you get it.


Yeah, I agonized over the Bomaker or the Fengmi C2 or the JMGO U2, but in the end, having a local retailer who give you three months to test out is pretty unbeatable. $2000 is totally reasonable for a projector, but having to ship back to China or dealing with some fly-by-night retailer was really holding me back.

Also, after having a dual laser and going back to single laser, the color gamut is much more important to me than absolute contrast. I also just got a Datacolor Spyderx Elite, so I can do a proper calibration now.


----------



## Rvarma

lattiboy said:


> Yeah, I agonized over the Bomaker or the Fengmi C2 or the JMGO U2, but in the end, having a local retailer who give you three months to test out is pretty unbeatable. $2000 is totally reasonable for a projector, but having to ship back to China or dealing with some fly-by-night retailer was really holding me back.
> 
> Also, after having a dual laser and going back to single laser, the color gamut is much more important to me than absolute contrast. I also just got a Datacolor Spyderx Elite, so I can do a proper calibration now.


I am getting mine on Nov 28, can't wait to try it, this is my first shot throw laser projector, please share your calibration settings once you get yours.


----------



## taywu

@lattiboy, we think alike. I was basically looking for the most affordable Tri-Color UST available, I agonized over the same ones you looked at, also had the VAVA Chroma on my list. I was days away from pulling the trigger on the JMGO U2 with their discount. But the Bomaker had what I was looking for, a low noise rating (< 28 db), low power consumption (185 W) and decent brightness. So I took a chance when it popped up on Walmart. Worst case, like you said you can return it to a major retailer.


----------



## [email protected]

My Bomaker Polaris arrives this week. Does anyone know if this projector provide the aspect ratio 235.1? 
The brochure says Standard, full screen, 16:9, 4:3, Zoom1 & Zoom2.


----------



## vulture

In terms of Gamma control in the HDR picture mode - I assume this is the HDR high/med/low setting? I am finding that HDR low yields a dull picture but while HDR med fixes it, the skin tones/highlights start to crush. This is with an ATV set to always output 4k60 HDR.


----------



## [email protected]

Crap I broke it again said:


> I tried using the bomaker to project a 120" scope screen, which equates to around a 150" 16:9 screen with the black bars. At that size, the image definitely suffered a little, but not much. I didn't notice much blurring at the edges but there was some issues with sharpness. My biggest issue was that the black levels, which were already not great, really washed together. Watching something with a lot of black, like Black Widow or Titans (especially Titans) felt like watching a lot of silhouettes on the screen since their uniforms are so dark. It was already not great on a 100" 16:9 screen . I was able to get to around a 120" 16:9 screen size before that started to get really bad. This is in my basement with zero ambient light.
> 
> I bought the bomaker because I'm just dipping my toes into the home theater world and I didn't want to spend big on something I may not like. Right now it's perfect for my needs but I am sure there are better projectors out there for my room once it's completed. My ceiling is only 6'10" and the room is only 11.5' wide. The bomaker can pull it off but it sits only a few inches above the floor.


----------



## [email protected]

Just bought my first projector and I am holding my breath. My Bomaker Polaris is arriving later this week. I was hoping it had a cinema scope setting, does it? Also, are you still using the cinema scope screen? I was hoping to use a 120 wide screen, do you think that would be a big disappointment?
Thanks
Vern


----------



## Rvarma

Got mine two days back , setup the projector with 100inch screen I already have , out of the box colors were way off , I used settings of @IanLaurie from page number 15(white balance settings) and page number 30 , it turned out great , I am very happy so far.


----------



## bix26

Aktran9 said:


> I reached out to Costco, which unfortunately is not helpful citing that am still under warranty with Bomaker, which the warranty won't expire until April 2022. Frustrating because Bomaker won't respond at all and am stuck with a brick.


Then I’d try your credit card company. Usually CC’s offer a warranty on electronics similar to what Best Buy does with their geek squad protection. It’s worth a try, if your cc company doesn’t offer protection then you can open a claim and dispute the transaction. If Bomaker receives notice from your cc company they might respond, and even if they don’t the cc will most likely refund you. It’s fraudulent to sell something with a warranty and not honor that agreement.


----------



## lattiboy

Just got mine set up about two hours ago. I didn’t even bother with the out-of-the-box settings as they were disgusting, put in IanLauries settings from page #30 almost immediately. Using my 120Elite Screens Aeon .6 gain CLR screen.

initial impressions:

- beautifu, sharp, COLORFUL picture even at 120”. Corners are a little rough at the moment, but I’m not sweating it. I need to get some flat surface to put under it as my media console is too short. The Hisense was throwing about 1.5” taller on the screen.

- quite bright even in daytime with ambient light. Was worried with low gain screen and 500 less lumens than my Hisense L5F

-Black levels are MUCH better than I thought they’d be. I haven’t don’t night time viewing yet, but I would say daytime blacks are better than night blacks on my L5F.

- really quiet with no laser whine I can hear, and I’m super sensitive

- practically no laser speckle, which is a huge issue with some projectors.

- motion compensation isn’t bad on low. I hate the soap opera effect, but low is actually nice

Overall, I’m super happy. For $1750 this is an ABSURD value.


----------



## lattiboy

I should also say the “high dynamic” light source option adds seemingly a nice bit of contrast without color shift or over darkening.


----------



## lattiboy

Man, it is WEIRD how you can’t take an iPhone picture of this thing! I shot in raw and exported to Lightroom mobile to get these, which still don’t do the Bomaker any kind of justice:


----------



## estebanm79

I hopped on the Walmart deal and added the 4 year protection plan just in case. The projector is scheduled to be delivered tomorrow and I'm excited to see if the hype is rally all that some have said. This Bomaker will replace my current UST projector (ViewSonic LS820) and after hearing lattiboy's first impressions my anticipation is high.


----------



## Buby2022

[email protected] said:


> My Bomaker Polaris arrives this week. Does anyone know if this projector provide the aspect ratio 235.1?
> The brochure says Standard, full screen, 16:9, 4:3, Zoom1 & Zoom2.


Those were the only options on the menu, maybe later in a software update.


----------



## lattiboy

estebanm79 said:


> I hopped on the Walmart deal and added the 4 year protection plan just in case. The projector is scheduled to be delivered tomorrow and I'm excited to see if the hype is rally all that some have said. This Bomaker will replace my current UST projector (ViewSonic LS820) and after hearing lattiboy's first impressions my anticipation is high.


Make sure you adjust to the settings on page 30, out of the box settings are tragic. I got the 4 year too.
Also, try gamma dark and light output to high dynamic if you like a more contrasty picture


----------



## lattiboy

I would actually revise my previous suggestion and have people try “low contrast”, which is a horrible name, but just means “less high contrast in the brights”. It seems to function a lot like “dynamic contrast” on other PJs and I feel it really makes the picture pop. The high contrast increases high brights substantially, while the low contrast seems to stop the boosting at a lower level. Best test is to pause on an HDR scene with bright clouds. I used 14 Peaks on Netflix (which is a boring documentary btw) and the difference was substantial. 


I compared it with the tone mapping of my AppleTV 4K and really preferred it. The Midnight Mass on Netflix is another good HDR torture test, especially the last episode which is incredibly dark.

After a lot of viewing yesterday, I am wildly impressed with this PJ. Black levels and contrast
are really good for a DLP, it’s dead quiet, and the colors are downright intoxicating.

I cannot believe how under the radar this thing has gone and how the incredibly lazy implementation by Bomaker (along with essentially abandoning the product and customers) left such a bad impression with people. The out of the box picture was just horrendous!

I can’t speak to reliability, but I’m hoping the 4 year warranty plan I purchased from WalMart will be there even if Bomaker isn’t.


----------



## taywu

Hey @lattiboy thanks for sharing your impressions and settings. What White Balance settings did you use? (or page# if you use someone's settings). I'm still waiting for my xy screen to get here, but want to get the settings in place first. Seems Bomaker could have spent a minimal amount of effort to optimize the out of the box settings and experience a bit, market the thing, they could have sold a ton of them since the hardware and specs in that sweet spot for the money.

BTW, for those thinking about getting the Protection Plan, I would suggest buying it at the same time when you buy the projector. Even though Walmart says you have 30 days to add the protection plan, it's a pain in the ass to do it as the projector doesn't show up as an eligible item and you have to call customer service and the $77 is not guaranteed if you do it after purchase. I also tried going directly to Allstate (which is the insurer), they charge you $230 for the same 4-year protection plan.


----------



## lattiboy

taywu said:


> Hey @lattiboy thanks for sharing your impressions and settings. What White Balance settings did you use? (or page# if you use someone's settings). I'm still waiting for my xy screen to get here, but want to get the settings in place first. Seems Bomaker could have spent a minimal amount of effort to optimize the out of the box settings and experience a bit, market the thing, they could have sold a ton of them since the hardware and specs in that sweet spot for the money.
> 
> BTW, for those thinking about getting the Protection Plan, I would suggest buying it at the same time when you buy the projector. Even though Walmart says you have 30 days to add the protection plan, it's a pain in the ass to do it as the projector doesn't show up as an eligible item and you have to call customer service and the $77 is not guaranteed if you do it after purchase. I also tried going directly to Allstate (which is the insurer), they charge you $230 for the same 4-year protection plan.


I have barely touched the white balance settings as it honestly looks pretty good to me out of the box after the color adjustments from page 30. I have a SpyderX calibration device I need to use, but I’ve been too busy. Once I do I will post the results. 

Still tempted by the Xaomi Laser TV 2, but its $500 more and no USA vendors.


----------



## taywu

lattiboy said:


> I have barely touched the white balance settings as it honestly looks pretty good to me out of the box after the color adjustments from page 30. I have a SpyderX calibration device I need to use, but I’ve been too busy. Once I do I will post the results.
> 
> Still tempted by the Xaomi Laser TV 2, but its $500 more and no USA vendors.


Thanks. I made some changes to get as close to my Macbook Air Retina's display but still not ideal so curious what everyone's done with it. Didn't know about the new Xaomi but will check it out but might be hard to beat the Bomaker on price for the spec.


----------



## lattiboy

Anybody has any ARC issues? I’m using a SN11RG soundbar and had no issues with my previous Hisense L5F. Roku ultra plugged into the soundbar and the soundbar outputting to HDMI1 on the Bomaker.

Volume control has to be manually configured as. Hisense, but it seems to forget it on boot.

Such an annoying issue as everything else is great for me.


----------



## Crap I broke it again

lattiboy said:


> Anybody has any ARC issues? I’m using a SN11RG soundbar and had no issues with my previous Hisense L5F. Roku ultra plugged into the soundbar and the soundbar outputting to HDMI1 on the Bomaker.
> 
> Volume control has to be manually configured as. Hisense, but it seems to forget it on boot.
> 
> Such an annoying issue as everything else is great for me.


ARC worked well for me. I have an apple tv 4k plugged into a marantz receiver that outputs to the bomaker and the apple remote automatically controls the volume and turns everything on or off. I still hate that remote though.


----------



## lattiboy

Watching Wheel of Time, which is cheesy as hell, but looks gorgeous. Have to do a -77 tint in Lightroom to get these to look at all like real life. Probably why you don’t see many videos or screenshots of this PJ. For non HDR “gamma dark” is also great for more contrast and darker blacks at the cost of a little shadow detail.


----------



## cgott42

I just got one. I love the PQ however *1080p is very noticeably blocky*. I’m using a Apple TV 4K + on 4k SD setting 60Hz and the Bomaker with motion on med (I tried some other settings but same issue). It’s night and day diff. I tried 1080p setting kn the Apple but same issue I didn’t notice this on my previous JvC DLA proj.
see the screen shots basketball from the NBA app looks blocky and the same on NFL app. But it’s not the fast movement because even movement of a player walking has the issue. Also see the commercial as Shaq is almost unrecognizable just walking Whereas the 4k material looks super. Even the fast moving Star Wars Likewise playground basketball on YouTube 4k looks great even with fast motion
Any idea?

Update (1/10/22) - I actually returned my Bomaker (in large part due to this issue) and bought a Sony OLED - and back to report that the Bomaker wasn't at fault - I think there's something worng with my streaming (though can't figure out what)








Please help- something is wrong with my streaming


My setup is below, and the issue is during sports - there is EXTREME motion blur (not nitpicking here - w/o exaggeration it can look like a 1990's video game. When the action stops - the picture is crystal clear, when it moves it's blurry However, when there is 4k sports (e.g. Youtube, or...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## lattiboy

cgott42 said:


> I just got one. I love the PQ however *1080p is very noticeably blocky*. I’m using a Apple TV 4K + on 4k SD setting 60Hz and the Bomaker with motion on med (I tried some other settings but same issue). It’s night and day diff. I tried 1080p setting kn the Apple but same issue I didn’t notice this on my previous JvC DLA proj.
> see the screen shots basketball from the NBA app looks blocky and the same on NFL app. But it’s not the fast movement because even movement of a player walking has the issue. Also see the commercial as Shaq is almost unrecognizable just walking Whereas the 4k material looks super. Even the fast moving Star Wars Likewise playground basketball on YouTube 4k looks great even with fast motion
> Any idea?


That’s very weird. I watch a lot of 1080p through YouTube and Plex on my Roku Ultra and have never noticed this. Might I suggest doing “match content” on the Apple TV? I will be watching the Seahawks game today and will look for this.


----------



## cgott42

lattiboy said:


> That’s very weird. I watch a lot of 1080p through YouTube and Plex on my Roku Ultra and have never noticed this. Might I suggest doing “match content” on the Apple TV? I will be watching the Seahawks game today and will look for this.


I just tried that but same issue. I switched the aspect ratio on the Polaris from full to 16x9 and that helped (no idea why) but still bad


----------



## lattiboy

cgott42 said:


> I just tried that but same issue. I switched the aspect ratio on the Polaris from full to 16x9 and that helped (no idea why) but still bad


Ah, ok. A workaround would be setting the AppleTV to 4K HDR and then turning on “native” for the Polaris scaling. Then enable match HDR. That way it isn’t doing any scaling. That’s how I’ve had mine setup on all my devices. PS4, Roku, etc


----------



## cgott42

lattiboy said:


> Ah, ok. A workaround would be setting the AppleTV to 4K HDR and then turning on “native” for the Polaris scaling. Then enable match HDR. That way it isn’t doing any scaling. That’s how I’ve had mine setup on all my devices. PS4, Roku, etc


That helped a little
Though turning on HDR4k on the Apple produced a picture way too bright. Not watchable I think the switch to native is what helped that bit as it switched the Apple back to SDR4k and it’s slightly improved
It’s watchable now. But still blurry movement (even with motion on high)
Can you pause the action during a football or basketball game and post the pic?


----------



## cgott42

Here’s a football game. See how sharp the text compared to the players moving. When they show a player sitting still on the bench it’s also super sharp too it’s just movement


----------



## lattiboy

Was messing with HDR and I think there is something to be done with light source, contrast, and HDR setting. I was able to get these results using HDR high and light source low contrast + contrast at 39 + brightness at 51. The only issue is you get some blown highlights in brighter scenes. Trying to work it out and will post results when I do. The second one looks MUCH better in person, but the weird editing you have to do to remove the pink cast doesn’t allow you to show off darker scenes effectively.


----------



## humax

These pics look good for the price, however the light spill in the black bars is distracting.


----------



## lattiboy

humax said:


> These pics look good for the price, however the light spill in the black bars is distracting.





humax said:


> These pics look good for the price, however the light spill in the black bars is distracting.


The bars aren’t black, but they’re much better than the two other DLP lasers I’ve used. The issue is a pink cast in photos that you have to edit out. It also throws off the exposure and takes frankly a lot of work to get anything resembling in person experience. 

The colors and rendering more than make up for the slightly higher black levels for me, but if you’re looking for really dark blacks it’ll probably be one of the Chinese ALPD PJs or spending 4x as much.


----------



## cgott42

Update: I don’t know why. It the motion issue seems to have gone away. I don’t think it’s on a different setting. Strange. It looks normal now. 1080p Sports aren’t amazing or anything like that. But looks normal


----------



## lattiboy

Really happy with the Bomaker now. I don’t have any envy of other PJs and the color is literally at the limits of human perception. Watched both new episodes of the Expanse last night (one of the darkest shows on TV) and was extremely happy with the tone mapping.

Also! The difference between brightness at “49”, “50” and “51” for shadow detail is immense! Especially in HDR mode it’s almost like a totally different tone map for shadows is being used. A really good test is the opening of Doctor Strange. The first minute or two is in almost total darkness and you can really see what’s happening with the brightness setting.

Another couple shots from some nature shows color corrected in Lightroom to the best of my abilities. Both of these are with my rear pot lights on low, but I recreated what I see in person on my iPhone screen.


----------



## Rvarma

lattiboy said:


> Really happy with the Bomaker now. I don’t have any envy of other PJs and the color is literally at the limits of human perception. Watched both new episodes of the Expanse last night (one of the darkest shows on TV) and was extremely happy with the tone mapping.
> 
> Also! The difference between brightness at “49”, “50” and “51” for shadow detail is immense! Especially in HDR mode it’s almost like a totally different tone map for shadows is being used. A really good test is the opening of Doctor Strange. The first minute or two is in almost total darkness and you can really see what’s happening with the brightness setting.
> 
> Another couple shots from some nature shows color corrected in Lightroom to the best of my abilities. Both of these are with my rear pot lights on low, but I recreated what I see in person on my iPhone screen.
> 
> View attachment 3211461
> 
> 
> View attachment 3211417
> 
> View attachment 3211418


Pictures look really good, what screen you are using? And can you share your calibration settings?


----------



## lattiboy

Rvarma said:


> Pictures look really good, what screen you are using? And can you share your calibration settings?


Check out the settings from Ian Laurie on page 30 of this thread. Mine are those but brightness at 51 and contrast at 55 or so. Adjust to your taste. Set the light source to “low dynamic”. Elite Screens .6 CLR Starbright 120” screen.


----------



## altron3k

Hi guys, So some updates. i was able to claw back/return my original bomaker polaris (bought in jan '21) as bomaker would NOT reply or return calls.. I ordered a replacement Polaris 4k on walmart and i have some insights for you guys... first off, The shipping box is totally different - plainer, less flashy box (also no ROKU stick included). the throw distance/angle has DEFINITELY been updated and or changed. my original custom made stand was positioned and setup perfectly for the first projector is now COMPLETELY off for the newer walmart bomaker (i actually had to saw .5inch off the stand). anecdotally with the old projector i'd often shoot myself in the face while shifting speakers/projector- the new one much less so- definitely has a steeper shooting angle. Focus of the new projector on my 120 ALR screen is definitely softer than previous model (new ones right hand corner/side is pretty blurry). Perhaps the old lens/optics focus were set to 110-120in . The strange distortion/errors i had are gone - however as mentioned by someone early in thread i can see similar looking faint distortions fanning out from the center on extremely bright scenes. (screen and projector glass all cleaned) this further leads me to think their reflecting optics/mirror may have flaws/distortions causing these issues. Color settings came in WEIRDLY tuned and the values were not 50'd out like original- but also were NOT the values tuned here in our thread. 
the glass element also didnt come with a plastic peel away cover (not sure if any of yours did)
i have a few months to keep checking but I am seriously considering a VAVA chroma via kickstarter, however the lack of protection plan availability worries me... hope this helps !


----------



## lattiboy

altron3k said:


> Hi guys, So some updates. i was able to claw back/return my original bomaker polaris (bought in jan '21) as bomaker would NOT reply or return calls.. I ordered a replacement Polaris 4k on walmart and i have some insights for you guys... first off, The shipping box is totally different - plainer, less flashy box (also no ROKU stick included). the throw distance/angle has DEFINITELY been updated and or changed. my original custom made stand was positioned and setup perfectly for the first projector is now COMPLETELY off for the newer walmart bomaker (i actually had to saw .5inch off the stand). anecdotally with the old projector i'd often shoot myself in the face while shifting speakers/projector- the new one much less so- definitely has a steeper shooting angle. Focus of the new projector on my 120 ALR screen is definitely softer than previous model (new ones right hand corner/side is pretty blurry). Perhaps the old lens/optics focus were set to 110-120in . The strange distortion/errors i had are gone - however as mentioned by someone early in thread i can see similar looking faint distortions fanning out from the center on extremely bright scenes. (screen and projector glass all cleaned) this further leads me to think their reflecting optics/mirror may have flaws/distortions causing these issues. Color settings came in WEIRDLY tuned and the values were not 50'd out like original- but also were NOT the values tuned here in our thread.
> the glass element also didnt come with a plastic peel away cover (not sure if any of yours did)
> i have a few months to keep checking but I am seriously considering a VAVA chroma via kickstarter, however the lack of protection plan availability worries me... hope this helps !


Mine did not come with a Roku either, and I definitely noticed a little softness in the upper left-hand corner when I’m close to the screen.

Incredibly bizarre that they would go to the trouble of retooling the projector that’s also poorly in the first place.

Outside of the issues you mentioned, how do you feel about the projector?


----------



## NV_AU

Hi, I'm checking if anyone in Europe had any success to receive their Polaris order recently? I'm based in Australia and my order supposedly had to be shipped from Poland warehouse, but has been "unfullfilled" since 27 November. When asking Bomaker for updates (since website show 3-5 day shipping and paying $250 shipping) their reply were outright shocking with just "you have to wait . . . . " (how long....weeks/months/years??) and now they are completely unresponsive. I wonder how many unfulfilled orders are queued up since Black Friday sales and continued promotions. At least the USA seems covered with Walmart for local stock and warranty. Any others in same situation with no updates and seemingly no shipping anytime soon?


----------



## altron3k

lattiboy said:


> Mine did not come with a Roku either, and I definitely noticed a little softness in the upper left-hand corner when I’m close to the screen.
> 
> Incredibly bizarre that they would go to the trouble of retooling the projector that’s also poorly in the first place.
> 
> Outside of the issues you mentioned, how do you feel about the projector?


indeed, exactly what i was thinking. Its a guess but I was even thinking they're just buying HISENSE's B+ yield optics/laser units and just using those with new lenses. (like GPU cpu chip quality grading levels or rejects). so strange they update but it doesnt seem to be an improvement of anykind and they definitely have not delivered on promised keystone/focus controls. im still up in the air about keeping it- i've been satisfied with over all usage over the past few months for movies+shows+games (non fps) but as mentioned by others the HDR can be a bit washed out for some things as well as a slight bow in the center.
im including a focus image test- (with obvious right side wonkyness and center bow) . Overall i'd say it was worth the 1900 i paid for it back last year . nothing came close to the cost /performance ratio. However now it sounds like the VAVA chroma as well as the Hisense L9G (rumors are a cheaper version with no screen may be available soon) may be viable replacements (500-1000 dollars more) ... i'd say the keystone and electric focus are worth it...


----------



## lattiboy

I really think the slogan for this PJ should be “Everything sucks, so just get high and watch nature documentaries!” Again, there’s only so much you can do to convey the colors as even shooting DNGs and exporting to Lightroom the color cast messes up exposure and color saturation. In person I GASPED at the reds in the first picture. The reddest red that’s ever red.


----------



## hifiand3dfan

Personally I think Bomaker is almost like a shadow-op for HiSense to test out the kinks of what they are planning to release next.
The advanced engineering that Bomaker claims to have? No way.

Interesting enough it seems Amazon completely delisted them? Part of the excessive review manipulation crowd perhaps?


The one thing I would be interested in if anybody found a low cost normal throw triple laser 4K alternative or even a good regular normal throw 4k laser "off brand" alternative.
All this UST stuff does not work for me.


----------



## JackB

taywu said:


> I haven't had a projector for years when I had a 720P projector so can't really compare to other 4k projectors but out of the box it's pretty saturated with redish skin tones on my wall. Overall picture is sharp and bright. I'm pretty happy with it so far for the price. I don't really care about the software, I'll be using it with a Fire TV stick anyway. I'll follow up after I get my screen, currently looking at a Chinese ALR PET Crystal type screen. Look forward to your impressions when you get it.


Ey


lattiboy said:


> I really think the slogan for this PJ should be “Everything sucks, so just get high and watch nature documentaries!” Again, there’s only so much you can do to convey the colors as even shooting DNGs and exporting to Lightroom the color cast messes up exposure and color saturation. In person I GASPED at the reds in the first picture. The reddest red that’s ever red.
> 
> View attachment 3213433
> 
> View attachment 3213434
> 
> View attachment 3213435


Lattiboy, I thought I read on another thread that you were going to return your Bomaker to Walmart, yet you are continuing to rave about it here. Am I mistaken? I am about to pull the trigger with Walmart but don't want to make a mistake. My basic concern is that this thing will work well once dialed in but could easily turn into a brick with no warranty repair service sometime in the future. You can buy the $77 extended warranty but it doesn't do any good if there is no place to send it.


----------



## lattiboy

hifiand3dfan said:


> Personally I think Bomaker is almost like a shadow-op for HiSense to test out the kinks of what they are planning to release next.
> The advanced engineering that Bomaker claims to have? No way.
> 
> Interesting enough it seems Amazon completely delisted them? Part of the excessive review manipulation crowd perhaps?
> 
> 
> The one thing I would be interested in if anybody found a low cost normal throw triple laser 4K alternative or even a good regular normal throw 4k laser "off brand" alternative.
> All this UST stuff does not work for me.





JackB said:


> Ey
> 
> Lattiboy, I thought I read on another thread that you were going to return your Bomaker to Walmart, yet you are continuing to rave about it here. Am I mistaken? I am about to pull the trigger with Walmart but don't want to make a mistake. My basic concern is that this thing will work well once dialed in but could easily turn into a brick with no warranty repair service sometime in the future. You can buy the $77 extended warranty but it doesn't do any good if there is no place to send it.


Yeah, I did purchase the Xaomi Cinema 2 and I’m going to see if the color difference is notable in actual viewing. If not, the Cinema 2 is better (on paper) in every regard for roughly the same price today. Probably about triple the contrast, eARC, and DV. Also Xaomi is a big manufacturer and will do repair service even if you have to spend some $$$ on shipping.

For the money I paid ($1750) I think the Bomaker is in a league of its own. You’re right about the extended warranty, but even if they can’t repair it you have 4 years of at least a full refund.


----------



## JackB

lattiboy said:


> Yeah, I did purchase the Xaomi Cinema 2 and I’m going to see if the color difference is notable in actual viewing. If not, the Cinema 2 is better (on paper) in every regard for roughly the same price today. Probably about triple the contrast, eARC, and DV. Also Xaomi is a big manufacturer and will do repair service even if you have to spend some $$$ on shipping.
> 
> For the money I paid ($1750) I think the Bomaker is in a league of its own. You’re right about the extended warranty, but even if they can’t repair it you have 4 years of at least a full refund.


Whoa! Are you saying that the return policy is changed from 90 days to four years if I buy the warranty? That's a total game changer. I assumed that the warranty covered repair, not return.


----------



## lattiboy

JackB said:


> Whoa! Are you saying that the return policy is changed from 90 days to four years if I buy the warranty? That's a total game changer. I assumed that the warranty covered repair, not return.


My understanding is that if they cannot repair it because of lack of parts or a repair center you are given a full refund. I’m sure it would be incredibly time-consuming, but because Bomaker appears to be almost a ghost company, after a year you would be dealing with AllState who would be obligated to replace or repair your device.


----------



## JackB

lattiboy said:


> My understanding is that if they cannot repair it because of lack of parts or a repair center you are given a full refund. I’m sure it would be incredibly time-consuming, but because Bomaker appears to be almost a ghost company, after a year you would be dealing with AllState who would be obligated to replace or repair your device.


I wonder if that is in writing someplace within Walmart's legal documents.


----------



## JackB

lattiboy said:


> My understanding is that if they cannot repair it because of lack of parts or a repair center you are given a full refund. I’m sure it would be incredibly time-consuming, but because Bomaker appears to be almost a ghost company, after a year you would be dealing with AllState who would be obligated to replace or repair your device.


Can you tell me how many inches is the distance between your screen and the rear of the projector? Mine will be on my credenza projecting to a drop down screen that's in front of my wall mounted TV. So I'm concerned about how far out I have to move the credenza to accommodate the rear feet on the Bomaker.


----------



## phchrono

lattiboy said:


> Yeah, I did purchase the Xaomi Cinema 2 and I’m going to see if the color difference is notable in actual viewing. If not, the Cinema 2 is better (on paper) in every regard for roughly the same price today. Probably about triple the contrast, eARC, and DV. Also Xaomi is a big manufacturer and will do repair service even if you have to spend some $$$ on shipping.
> 
> For the money I paid ($1750) I think the Bomaker is in a league of its own. You’re right about the extended warranty, but even if they can’t repair it you have 4 years of at least a full refund.


How do you know that the Xiaomi C2 has a contrast of almost 3x the Polaris?
I haven't found a full test indicating the contrast and brightness values.

For Xiaomi's DV, it's convenient for automatic HDR management but the color space is only 81.8% in DCI-P3 so the DV is underused 
It would have been nice if the Polaris had the DV as it is REC2020 certified

During the sale on Indiegogo, Bomaker had indicated a possibility of the DV but I no longer believe it. No response from support on the various updates said by themselves (3D, auto focus, DV etc ...)

I have owned the Polaris for almost 1 year and I'm very satisfied. The more are vivid colors and the silence of the device. The least are the very weak sound from the speakers and only 2 HDMI outputs. (A sound bar with output HDMI Arc can solve these 2 problems)


----------



## lattiboy

phchrono said:


> How do you know that the Xiaomi C2 has a contrast of almost 3x the Polaris?
> I haven't found a full test indicating the contrast and brightness values.
> 
> For Xiaomi's DV, it's convenient for automatic HDR management but the color space is only 81.8% in DCI-P3 so the DV is underused
> It would have been nice if the Polaris had the DV as it is REC2020 certified
> 
> During the sale on Indiegogo, Bomaker had indicated a possibility of the DV but I no longer believe it. No response from support on the various updates said by themselves (3D, auto focus, DV etc ...)
> 
> I have owned the Polaris for almost 1 year and I'm very satisfied. The more are vivid colors and the silence of the device. The least are the very weak sound from the speakers and only 2 HDMI outputs. (A sound bar with output HDMI Arc can solve these 2 problems)


I’ve written quite a bit about how impressive I think the Polaris is, but there are some issues that hold me back, and it’s a lot of money to have tied up in a company that essentially doesn’t exist. I got the four year warranty (which I’ll return if I keep the Xaomi), But I can already imagine what a nightmare getting a refund would be before the one-year warranty is up.

I think double contrast would’ve been a better estimate, but I would say the one big drawback of the Polaris is the black level and performance on low APL content. Things get very gray and very muddy, and I am hoping the cinema 2 does not have that issue.

I’ve also read up a bit, and very few things are mastered to the full extent of P3 because most people have pretty bad televisions and movie studios know that.


----------



## phchrono

It is sure that for the moment the support is not present just for questions...
But considering the purchase price of the Polaris, no competitor will do better for the Tri-Laser. So far my unit is working very well, no problem to report.
I had the Xiaomi 4K Gen1, and for black the Polaris is visually better. The contrast given for the Xiaomi 4K Gen1 is 2100:1 on the site PHC

I look forward to your comparison with the Xiaomi C2


----------



## humax

phchrono said:


> I had the Xiaomi 4K Gen1, and for black the Polaris is visually better. The contrast given for the Xiaomi 4K Gen1 is 2100:1 on the site PHC



Xiaomi first generation is 2100:1, second one climbs up to 3500:1 and the C2 is 3200:1. Polaris is half that at best. With these USTs, you need a minimum of 2500:1 (ideally 3000 or more) true contrast plus a 0.4 gain ALR screen for 100" (0.6 for 120", 0.8 for 150") in order to lift the veil in the image and start losing the greyness/muddiness/fogginess. Then the picture will begin to look contrasty enough and the black bars will look more black than grey. In short, seeing grey bars with light spilling in them is an indication of a low contrast unit and you can be sure the haze is there in the rest of the picture, even if you don't always see it.


----------



## phchrono

humax said:


> Polaris is half that at best.


Do you have any proof of what you said? I did not find any test concerning real measurement.

Merry Christmas everyone


----------



## IanLaurie

Okay I know I have been absent for sometime. My kids have kept me run off my feet and haven’t had much time to watch anything myself.
So without further ado, here are my current settings, tuned as best as I can see with my eye with actual 4K HDR tuning disc. And with much better SDR stuff as well.
HDR settings:
brightness 48
Contrast 73
Saturation 40
Sharpness 0
Colour temp hot
White balance
R gain 128
R offset 128
G Gain 110
G offset 128
B gain 110
B offset 128
Colour adjustment
Red tone 45
Red sat 54
Red bright 43
Green tone 50
Green sat 50
Green bright 50
Blue tone 50
Blue sat 49
Blue bright 50
Cyan tone 72
Cyan sat 64
Cyan bright 50
Magenta tone 34
Magenta sat 59
Magenta bright 50
Yellow tone 60
Yellow sat 50
Yellow bright 58
Skin tone 65
Skin sat 50
Skin bright 70

set HDR to your liking. Sometimes the high looks best sometimes low. Medium is well medium.

I set my light mode to soft, but again this is mostly preference.
SDR
Brightness 52
Contrast 40
Saturation 36
Sharpness 0
Gamma dark
Colour temp hot
White balance, all same as above except:
G gain 116
Color adjustments all same as above

Hope these work as well for you all as they do for me


----------



## humax

phchrono said:


> Do you have any proof of what you said? I did not find any test concerning real measurement.
> 
> Merry Christmas everyone


Bomaker themselves claim a 2000:1 contrast ratio. These are uncalibrated and maxed out numbers in some sort of dynamic mode. Calibrated brightness and contrast for an accurate image are less. Trust your own eyes. If you get grey bars and muddy dark scenes your projector is doing 1300-1600:1 at best and I am being generous. 0.47" can have as low as 600:1 contrast on cheaper projectors. Only the ALPD module does a typical 3000:1 contrast ratio with the 0.47" DMD and only Xiaomi/Fengmi/Wemax models can actually reach or surpass it. Polaris is not an ALPD projector, but I believe it uses Hisense parts. Hisense claim 1500:1 with their own light engine. Their 3000 lumens model is probably lower than that. It is all about actual numbers really.

Merry Christmas to you too.


----------



## phchrono

IanLaurie said:


> Okay I know I have been absent for sometime. My kids have kept me run off my feet and haven’t had much time to watch anything myself.
> So without further ado, here are my current settings, tuned as best as I can see with my eye with actual 4K HDR tuning disc. And with much better SDR stuff as well.
> HDR settings:
> brightness 48
> Contrast 73
> Saturation 40
> Sharpness 0
> Colour temp hot
> White balance
> R gain 128
> R offset 128
> G Gain 110
> G offset 128
> B gain 110
> B offset 128
> Colour adjustment
> Red tone 45
> Red sat 54
> Red bright 43
> Green tone 50
> Green sat 50
> Green bright 50
> Blue tone 50
> Blue sat 49
> Blue bright 50
> Cyan tone 72
> Cyan sat 64
> Cyan bright 50
> Magenta tone 34
> Magenta sat 59
> Magenta bright 50
> Yellow tone 60
> Yellow sat 50
> Yellow bright 58
> Skin tone 65
> Skin sat 50
> Skin bright 70
> 
> set HDR to your liking. Sometimes the high looks best sometimes low. Medium is well medium.
> 
> I set my light mode to soft, but again this is mostly preference.
> SDR
> Brightness 52
> Contrast 40
> Saturation 36
> Sharpness 0
> Gamma dark
> Colour temp hot
> White balance, all same as above except:
> G gain 116
> Color adjustments all same as above
> 
> Hope these work as well for you all as they do for me


Thanks Ian for your new settings, I will test this night 



humax said:


> Bomaker themselves claim a 2000:1 contrast ratio. These are uncalibrated and maxed out numbers in some sort of dynamic mode. Calibrated brightness and contrast for an accurate image are less. Trust your own eyes. If you get grey bars and muddy dark scenes your projector is doing 1300-1600:1 at best and I am being generous. 0.47" can have as low as 600:1 contrast on cheaper projectors. Only the ALPD module does a typical 3000:1 contrast ratio with the 0.47" DMD and only Xiaomi/Fengmi/Wemax models can actually reach or surpass it. Polaris is not an ALPD projector, but I believe it uses Hisense parts. Hisense claim 1500:1 with their own light engine. Their 3000 lumens model is probably lower than that. It is all about actual numbers really.
> 
> Merry Christmas to you too.


It's true, I just saw this information on their site, it's really written in the mass and not well put forward like the rest of the specifications ...
In any case visually, the contrast is better than my Xiaomi 4K Gen1 and the black is not black like an Oled TV but more than enough for a good cinema session


----------



## humax

phchrono said:


> It's true, I just saw this information on their site, it's really written in the mass and not well put forward like the rest of the specifications ...
> In any case visually, the contrast is better than my Xiaomi 4K Gen1 and the black is not black like an Oled TV but more than enough for a good cinema session


There may not be much difference to the first generation Xiaomi, but it has half the contrast or less than the second. You can only say a projector is good enough, when you compare it side by side with the best in its class. I have a lamp-based 0.65" UST that claims 2000:1 contrast ratio like yours. I thought I was seeing a good picture, until I saw in person the Wemax A300 at a friend's house and was blown away by it. It literally wiped the floor with my own unit, so something is good enough is relative to how many other projectors you have seen and compared to each other.


----------



## JackB

I received my Polaris today. This is my first UST.Right off I have a question:

Alignment issues. I have the bottom at the right width but the picture keystones outward as it goes up and extends about two inches above the top and almost that at the sides at the top. Also I think the focus at the top is slightly out. Is there some basic principle to UST alignment, like moving farther or closer, raising the front or rear, etc., that will cause the top to come down without the bottom going down?

Otherwise, the picture looks very good with IanLaurie's settings although the low light scenes could be a little better.

I hope one of you experienced UST guys can coach me on my alignment process.


----------



## hypnotoad2500

JackB said:


> I received my Polaris today. This is my first UST.Right off I have a question:
> 
> Alignment issues. I have the bottom at the right width but the picture keystones outward as it goes up and extends about two inches above the top and almost that at the sides at the top. Also I think the focus at the top is slightly out. Is there some basic principle to UST alignment, like moving farther or closer, raising the front or rear, etc., that will cause the top to come down without the bottom going down?
> 
> Otherwise, the picture looks very good with IanLaurie's settings although the low light scenes could be a little better.
> 
> I hope one of you experienced UST guys can coach me on my alignment process.


It sounds like the height should be increased on the front of the unit. (Not the side facing the wall, the side facing the viewer) go slow and you should notice as you increase that height the sides will come in


----------



## JackB

hypnotoad2500 said:


> It sounds like the height should be increased on the front of the unit. (Not the side facing the wall, the side facing the viewer) go slow and you should notice as you increase that height the sides will come in


I will work on the some more. Is there any way to tell what the exact distance should be from the screen? My screen is 106"s.

Also, I tried removing the legs in order to remove the locking washers as they keep getting in the way. But the legs don't seem to want to be removed. Are they locked to the chassis?


----------



## hypnotoad2500

JackB said:


> I will work on the some more. Is there any way to tell what the exact distance should be from the screen? My screen is 106"s.
> 
> Also, I tried removing the legs in order to remove the locking washers as they keep getting in the way. But the legs don't seem to want to be removed. Are they locked to the chassis?


They give measurements for a 100" screen. So 106 is probably like a half inch more. It should be about 10" from the screen. The important thing is to first get the picture square. Then you just move the project closer or farther to change the size of the projection and dail it into the brooders of the screen. The feet do not come out of the projector. If you reached the max and need it higher, consider adding a spacer under the feet or even under the feet of your tv stand to raise it


----------



## JackB

hypnotoad2500 said:


> They give measurements for a 100" screen. So 106 is probably like a half inch more. It should be about 10" from the screen. The important thing is to first get the picture square. Then you just move the project closer or farther to change the size of the projection and dail it into the brooders of the screen. The feet do not come out of the projector. If you reached the max and need it higher, consider adding a spacer under the feet or even under the feet of your tv stand to raise it


Like a dumb-dumb I didn't read the manual on image setup. They are pretty clear on leg adjustment for the various geometry issues. Looks like one needs to extend the legs out to halfway so that any adjustments, clockwise or counterclockwise, can be made without running up against the limit.

On another issue. I'm using IanLaurie's setting in the "User" category. I think they are very good, although I haven't looked at any of the factory settings yet. Ian has both SDR and HDR settings. Is the Polaris able to automatically switch back and forth depending on the content? So far it doesn't look like it or else I haven't set it up right.


----------



## IanLaurie

JackB said:


> Like a dumb-dumb I didn't read the manual on image setup. They are pretty clear on leg adjustment for the various geometry issues. Looks like one needs to extend the legs out to halfway so that any adjustments, clockwise or counterclockwise, can be made without running up against the limit.
> 
> On another issue. I'm using IanLaurie's setting in the "User" category. I think they are very good, although I haven't looked at any of the factory settings yet. Ian has both SDR and HDR settings. Is the Polaris able to automatically switch back and forth depending on the content? So far it doesn't look like it or else I haven't set it up right.


Yes. The Polaris will recognize hdr source automatically. However you can’t set HDR settings ( or see them) until you have an hdr source playing. Kind of a little quirk. If you have an Apple TV or 4K bluray player, you will have to go into your settings and enable hdr playback. Then go to Netflix or Disney+ or something with relatively recent high budget movies and pick. Screen will go black for a second, and auto switch to hdr. Then when you click settings you will see “hdr user” where “user” was.

As for not reading the manual…… starting at 50% would have been a really good idea, wish I had read that. Haha


----------



## JackB

IanLaurie said:


> Yes. The Polaris will recognize hdr source automatically. However you can’t set HDR settings ( or see them) until you have an hdr source playing. Kind of a little quirk. If you have an Apple TV or 4K bluray player, you will have to go into your settings and enable hdr playback. Then go to Netflix or Disney+ or something with relatively recent high budget movies and pick. Screen will go black for a second, and auto switch to hdr. Then when you click settings you will see “hdr user” where “user” was.
> 
> As for not reading the manual…… starting at 50% would have been a really good idea, wish I had read that. Haha


I have noticed that "HDR User" shows up with many if not most HDR material. However, not all. That's curious. Is it missing the cue or is Netflix, Prime, etc., fibbing when they say it is. When I go from a NF HDR movie to a NF older movie that is HD is the Polaris supposed to switch to "User"? It doesn't do that. I think, although I haven't thoroughly tested it.

Is there any place I can find definitions of some of these terms in the menu. For instance, what is Dynamic High, Dynamic Low? 

The colors on this thing are really great. With your settings they really pop. The skin tones are right on and the contrast is not bad. It's not as good as my JVC but it's close to my Runco high end LED, and that's pretty good. I guess the question remains; is it better to have great color or better contrast like on the newer Xiaomi's. Right now I'm going with the color. The 4K picture is very pure also. It does a great job with Directv HD and any streaming material. MEMC not so good though as even the Low setting creates the SBE.

I'm taking it into my HT room today to see how it does with dark walls and the infamous Da-Lite High Power 2.8 gain screen. I wonder if the high gain will improve the contrast on the Polaris. It definitely makes the JVC and Runco pop.


----------



## lattiboy

JackB said:


> I have noticed that "HDR User" shows up with many if not most HDR material. However, not all. That's curious. Is it missing the cue or is Netflix, Prime, etc., fibbing when they say it is. When I go from a NF HDR movie to a NF older movie that is HD is the Polaris supposed to switch to "User"? It doesn't do that. I think, although I haven't thoroughly tested it.
> 
> Is there any place I can find definitions of some of these terms in the menu. For instance, what is Dynamic High, Dynamic Low?
> 
> The colors on this thing are really great. With your settings they really pop. The skin tones are right on and the contrast is not bad. It's not as good as my JVC but it's close to my Runco high end LED, and that's pretty good. I guess the question remains; is it better to have great color or better contrast like on the newer Xiaomi's. Right now I'm going with the color. The 4K picture is very pure also. It does a great job with Directv HD and any streaming material. MEMC not so good though as even the Low setting creates the SBE.
> 
> I'm taking it into my HT room today to see how it does with dark walls and the infamous Da-Lite High Power 2.8 gain screen. I wonder if the high gain will improve the contrast on the Polaris. It definitely makes the JVC and Runco pop.


I’m a proponent of “low dynamic” and “soft” as the two light settings to use. Low dynamic for daytime and more ambient light, soft for cinema style low light. Pretty sure “dynamic” is just mislabeled dynamic contrast in the light menu for some reason.

I currently have the Xaomi Cinema 2, which has significantly better contrast and black levels than the Bomaker. It’s got better/equal black levels of my Sony X900E, which is not something I thought a projector would be able to do. In all honesty, it’s almost too punchy with all the lights out, and I’ve been leaving my rear lights on medium to avoid eye strain. You can’t really control the light level as the 4 light level options make no discernible difference in output. I’m sure it’ll be addressed in a FW update

In most “traditional” films and TV shows, the Xaomi simply trounces the Bomaker, but for nature documentaries and other HDR non-cinematic content (sports and games and demo reel stuff) the Bomaker colors are incredible. Some movies are now using more of the color space. A good example is Gaurdians of the Galaxy 2, which has portions that are at or near the BT.2020. In those scenes you can really see what full coverage can do. However, most major productions will be aiming for 75% of DCI-P3 as that’s a good baseline for an average consumer screen, and most people will end up watching on a low quality led screen for the foreseeable future.

Here’s the same scene on the two projectors. Top is Xaomi, bottom is Bomaker. In actual viewing, the Bomaker is WILDLY more colorful, but because of the pink cast in photos it isn’t as obvious. The Xaomi also has color issues here and the red is much more accurate. So, I guess this is mildly pointless, but I’ve done too much work to not post it now  It’s from the Jungle episode of Planet Earth II.


















I can’t imagine what it’ll look like on that 2.8 screen. I would think the hot spotting would be wild, but let us know!

The Fengmi T1 appears to be the perfect projector, but there hasn’t been any real testing from trusted sources or impressions from AVS members yet. Some people say the Fengmi C2s HDR handling was so bad you almost had to buy an HD Fury, so I’m not pulling the trigger just yet.


----------



## humax

lattiboy said:


> The Fengmi T1 appears to be the perfect projector, but there hasn’t been any real testing from trusted sources or impressions from AVS members yet. Some people say the Fengmi C2s HDR handling was so bad you almost had to buy an HD Fury, so I’m not pulling the trigger just yet.



Gregory has the same dilemma. He just got his own Xiaomi C2 and he is waiting for the T1 by the end of January in order to compare them and decide, which one he will keep. He is no big fan of tri-lasers so far, so if he gives it a thumbs up it will be a good sign. T1 has to at least match the 3200:1 contrast of the Xiaomi. It has also to hit in the lab 100% of REC.2020. Also, the anti-speckle technology it uses, what's up with that? Does it soften the image? Is there loss of detail? How is the CA compared to other RGB lasers? Things I need an answer to, before pulling the trigger and buy one.


----------



## JackB

The Polaris is almost too bright for the dark theater room and the 2.8 screen. The contrast and pop didn't help that much, a surprise to me. I'll be moving it back to the LR with it's white walls and 1.0 screen for the next few days. I have to use it for a few more days before I decide if I will return it or not. The convenience is great but I'm not sure it's worth the $2K versus my current projector sitting behind the couch.


----------



## 3sprit

humax said:


> Does it soften the image? Is there loss of detail?


Hopefully it doesn't happen but, seeing two photos from a short review, it would seem so.


----------



## Alaniz

lattiboy said:


> Make sure you adjust to the settings on page 30, out of the box settings are tragic. I got the 4 year too.
> Also, try gamma dark and light output to high dynamic if you like a more contrasty picture


I was able to change the gamma to dark on SDR. But it’s greyed out on HDR, even on User setting. How do i change gamma to dark on HDR setting?


----------



## lattiboy

Alaniz said:


> I was able to change the gamma to dark on SDR. But it’s greyed out on HDR, even on User setting. How do i change gamma to dark on HDR setting?


Gamma is not available in HDR. Instead you have HDR low medium and high. Medium is generally the best, but depends on content


----------



## AtlasShrugged08

Folks, have been reading this thread for a couple of weeks and there is no other resource out there that captures so much on the Bomaker Polaris 4k. Thank you for all the valuable tips.

This is my first projector ever (!). I was going to move into a new house and had marked Vava months back as something to buy after i moved but around thanksgiving, Walmart was showing the Bomaker for a good price (and vava was nowhere around on amazon anymore) so I ended up hitting the buy button on bomaker.

I have a few queries that I will post separately but the most daunting aspect for me has been to place it right so that it can be a proper rectangle overlaying my projector screen (I bought the Akia Screens 125 inch Edge Free Fixed Frame Projector Screen). I wish there was a more reliable, predictable way to do that. It took me hours to reach here (see attached pics) and I still have at least an inch or more of blank spaces on 3 sides. I am even afraid to touch it again lol. (I also have a height restriction as the table on which its kept cannot be lower).

How do i make it fill the screen? Any tips you folks might have is much appreciated.


----------



## AtlasShrugged08

Harmony Hub

Has any one tried the bomaker with the Logitech Harmony hub?

I have 3 remotes as of now - the Bomaker remote, the Denon receiver remote and the Amazon Firetv remote. (my firetv is hooked into the receiver so it cannot control bomaker).
I have a spare Harmony that i am thinking of using but dont know how to make it work with the bomaker. All i will really use from the bomaker remote is the power on and off so if the bomaker power on/off could somehow be controlled by the harmony remote then i can just that one remote.

(I have not understood why i cant upgrade the Android OS to be latest so that I could install the usual netflix, prime etc apps on it - hence the firetv in the mix)


----------



## lattiboy

AtlasShrugged08 said:


> Folks, have been reading this thread for a couple of weeks and there is no other resource out there that captures so much on the Bomaker Polaris 4k. Thank you for all the valuable tips.
> 
> This is my first projector ever (!). I was going to move into a new house and had marked Vava months back as something to buy after i moved but around thanksgiving, Walmart was showing the Bomaker for a good price (and vava was nowhere around on amazon anymore) so I ended up hitting the buy button on bomaker.
> 
> I have a few queries that I will post separately but the most daunting aspect for me has been to place it right so that it can be a proper rectangle overlaying my projector screen (I bought the Akia Screens 125 inch Edge Free Fixed Frame Projector Screen). I wish there was a more reliable, predictable way to do that. It took me hours to reach here (see attached pics) and I still have at least an inch or more of blank spaces on 3 sides. I am even afraid to touch it again lol. (I also have a height restriction as the table on which its kept cannot be lower).
> 
> Any tips you folks might have is much appreciated.
> 
> View attachment 3219351
> 
> View attachment 3219350
> 
> View attachment 3219349


It’s a complete pain. None of these USTs are simple to frame and even my current setup (where I’m 99% perfect) can drift if the dogs run around too much in the den.

I recommend using this test pattern as it has geometric guides on the sides. Get those to be straight and equal and then you just have to get the height.


----------



## PapaSchlumpf

Your screen is too low!
when you pull the beamer apart from the wall, does the lower gap grow or does it stay as it is?
If it stays, you have to move the screen exact the gap up, and pull the beamer to fit the picture to the screen.
If the gap is getting smaller, you have to move the screen half of the gap size up.



AtlasShrugged08 said:


> Folks, have been reading this thread for a couple of weeks and there is no other resource out there that captures so much on the Bomaker Polaris 4k. Thank you for all the valuable tips.
> 
> This is my first projector ever (!). I was going to move into a new house and had marked Vava months back as something to buy after i moved but around thanksgiving, Walmart was showing the Bomaker for a good price (and vava was nowhere around on amazon anymore) so I ended up hitting the buy button on bomaker.
> 
> I have a few queries that I will post separately but the most daunting aspect for me has been to place it right so that it can be a proper rectangle overlaying my projector screen (I bought the Akia Screens 125 inch Edge Free Fixed Frame Projector Screen). I wish there was a more reliable, predictable way to do that. It took me hours to reach here (see attached pics) and I still have at least an inch or more of blank spaces on 3 sides. I am even afraid to touch it again lol. (I also have a height restriction as the table on which its kept cannot be lower).
> 
> How do i make it fill the screen? Any tips you folks might have is much appreciated.
> 
> View attachment 3219351
> 
> View attachment 3219350
> 
> View attachment 3219349


----------



## IanLaurie

AtlasShrugged08 said:


> Folks, have been reading this thread for a couple of weeks and there is no other resource out there that captures so much on the Bomaker Polaris 4k. Thank you for all the valuable tips.
> 
> This is my first projector ever (!). I was going to move into a new house and had marked Vava months back as something to buy after i moved but around thanksgiving, Walmart was showing the Bomaker for a good price (and vava was nowhere around on amazon anymore) so I ended up hitting the buy button on bomaker.
> 
> I have a few queries that I will post separately but the most daunting aspect for me has been to place it right so that it can be a proper rectangle overlaying my projector screen (I bought the Akia Screens 125 inch Edge Free Fixed Frame Projector Screen). I wish there was a more reliable, predictable way to do that. It took me hours to reach here (see attached pics) and I still have at least an inch or more of blank spaces on 3 sides. I am even afraid to touch it again lol. (I also have a height restriction as the table on which its kept cannot be lower).
> 
> How do i make it fill the screen? Any tips you folks might have is much appreciated.
> 
> View attachment 3219351
> 
> View attachment 3219350
> 
> View attachment 3219349


Screen needs to go up slightly higher than where the bottom of the projected image currently is. Then pull back the projector just a touch and it should fill your screen. The bottom of the projected image will only climb a small amount compare to the top as you pull it back. I would say raise it about 1/4” above the bottom of your current image. Then when you pull back you should be close


----------



## IanLaurie

AtlasShrugged08 said:


> Harmony Hub
> 
> Has any one tried the bomaker with the Logitech Harmony hub?
> 
> I have 3 remotes as of now - the Bomaker remote, the Denon receiver remote and the Amazon Firetv remote. (my firetv is hooked into the receiver so it cannot control bomaker).
> I have a spare Harmony that i am thinking of using but dont know how to make it work with the bomaker. All i will really use from the bomaker remote is the power on and off so if the bomaker power on/off could somehow be controlled by the harmony remote then i can just that one remote.
> 
> (I have not understood why i cant upgrade the Android OS to be latest so that I could install the usual netflix, prime etc apps on it - hence the firetv in the mix)


My suggestion would be to try hisense programming codes.the guts are pretty much identical, and I imagine the remote is too


----------



## IanLaurie

JackB said:


> I have noticed that "HDR User" shows up with many if not most HDR material. However, not all. That's curious. Is it missing the cue or is Netflix, Prime, etc., fibbing when they say it is. When I go from a NF HDR movie to a NF older movie that is HD is the Polaris supposed to switch to "User"? It doesn't do that. I think, although I haven't thoroughly tested it.
> 
> Is there any place I can find definitions of some of these terms in the menu. For instance, what is Dynamic High, Dynamic Low?
> 
> The colors on this thing are really great. With your settings they really pop. The skin tones are right on and the contrast is not bad. It's not as good as my JVC but it's close to my Runco high end LED, and that's pretty good. I guess the question remains; is it better to have great color or better contrast like on the newer Xiaomi's. Right now I'm going with the color. The 4K picture is very pure also. It does a great job with Directv HD and any streaming material. MEMC not so good though as even the Low setting creates the SBE.
> 
> I'm taking it into my HT room today to see how it does with dark walls and the infamous Da-Lite High Power 2.8 gain screen. I wonder if the high gain will improve the contrast on the Polaris. It definitely makes the JVC and Runco pop.


Interesting. Anything I have had labeled as hdr on any of the services came through as such. I use an Apple TV, PlayStation 5, and UHD bluray player. None have given me any issues showing HDR when it’s supposed to. And yes, if you switch to a non hdr source, the projector should switch back to user, unless your source is doing some kind of conversion on the material.


----------



## AtlasShrugged08

Thank you everyone.
Thank you @IanLaurie ! (for this suggestion as well as for the Harmony suggestion and of course for your by-now-famous-settings)

I feared I would have to move the screen but was hoping to avoid it. I guess moving the screen (redoing the drilling/holes etc) is simpler compared to moving the projector anyway...
I will try that this weekend.



IanLaurie said:


> Screen needs to go up slightly higher than where the bottom of the projected image currently is. Then pull back the projector just a touch and it should fill your screen. The bottom of the projected image will only climb a small amount compare to the top as you pull it back. I would say raise it about 1/4” above the bottom of your current image. Then when you pull back you should be close


----------



## Davita

Hey guys,

I’ve been reading along here for a long time and finally bought my Polaris 4K, which is my first projector ever. So far, it looks good, even while using it on a plain white wall.
Maybe some of you can give me a hint on the following things:

1. is it possible to pass through Dolby atmos from an Apple TV 4K to the Sonos ARC? (Through DD+ because no eArc) I can get the symbol of Dolby atmos on movies from streaming, but the sound doesn’t come through. I have to deactivate Dolby Atmos and change to Dolby 5.1 on Apple TV to get sound. Is there anyway I can get Dolby atmos on my Sonos System?
2. My corners and in general the upper row is really blurred. Can this get reduced anyway? 
3. I am using the settings from @IanLaurie , thanks for the work! The colors seem way better, but it all looks really dark. In dark scenes you can’t get any details anymore and everything just looks black. Can this get fixed?
4. Does anyone ever contacted the support? I am kinda afraid, that when there are technical problems, there is no support or guarantee. I bought it directly over the website.

thanks in advance for any help and keep up the good work guys! Glad I found this thread!


----------



## AtlasShrugged08

Hey, This is from a newbie, there are much more experienced people out here but here's what I have seen at least:



> 2. My corners and in general the upper row is really blurred. Can this get reduced anyway?


This used to happen to me when I was testing it on a wall and at around 150 inches projection. I bought a cheap 25 bucks screen and reduced the projection size to 125 inches and that helped a lot. (then I moved to a good AKAI screen i mentioned in one of my posts above). So i think its not meant for more than 125 inches (even some of the earlier posts here alluded to that).



> 3. I am using the settings from @IanLaurie , thanks for the work! The colors seem way better, but it all looks really dark. In dark scenes you can’t get any details anymore and everything just looks black. Can this get fixed?


I wanted a brighter/more contrast image too (personal preference I guess) so I took Ianlaurie's recommendations as the base (for the color and everything) but changed the brightness and contrast a bit. I also use HDR as medium and light source as low-dynamic. Not sure if it helps but sharing.

No idea on (1) as I use a Denon receiver connected to bomaker via hdmi earc and my firetv 4k max is hooked direct to the denon receiver. (so i have no need for sound to go from bomaker to the reciever)

on (4) I had a short exchange with them (one Q&A back and forth over 24 hours) and never tried again as I feel any help I need I would rather rely on this community (and if there are hardware issues then I will just have to go via the allstate insurance i purchased via walmart).

Hope this helps.


----------



## AtlasShrugged08

I tried a few hisense model numbers, those did not work. 
Harmony has an option to teach IR remote commands to it and I ended up trying that (even though its a bluetooth remote), surprisingly that worked for power on and off (and now my Harmony remote turns on everything and turns off everything properly). so yayy.

I found another problem though, I also need to change the input as for some reason it keeps going back to the original (home) input when starting instead of staying on HDMI1. (and the damn harmony for some reason refuses to learn the input commands, lol... will need to keep trying i guess).



IanLaurie said:


> My suggestion would be to try hisense programming codes.the guts are pretty much identical, and I imagine the remote is too


----------



## vadom

Hi all,
last week I received a Polaris 4K from amazon and since this is my first experience with projectors I'm uncertain about some of its aspects.

I couldn't get it to focus at 80", it is mentioned in the user manual but it is impossible, the upper part of the screen will get focused only above 100".
Color alignment, when I look closely it seems that the colors are not aligned (Pictures bellow). 
Rainbow effect, as I had zero experience with projectors I wasn't sure if I am susceptible. Moving my focus across the screen I could notice it, especially with white subtitles. 
Black levels, I'm not really sure what to expect here, livable but not so great.
Sound, good enough for casual watching, would definitely use proper speakers for serious movie watching.
 Smart features, not really that important as I will use it with external sources, the amount of configuration settings is impressive though.
Brightness and Color seem to be very good, but again, I'm a newbie.
My concern is if those issues are generic or if I got a bad unit (focus at 80", color misalignment). Also regarding the rainbow effect and the contrast, is there any way to improve them? I see that other laser UST projectors have higher contrast 3,000 compared to 2,000, mathematically this is 50% more but in reality would it make a visible difference?


----------



## jakechoy

vadom said:


> View attachment 3221067
> View attachment 3221067
> View attachment 3221068


that doesn't look good at all.


----------



## vadom

jakechoy said:


> that doesn't look good at all.


Can you please elaborate?


----------



## humax

vadom said:


> My concern is if those issues are generic or if I got a bad unit (focus at 80", color misalignment). Also regarding the rainbow effect and the contrast, is there any way to improve them? I see that other laser UST projectors have higher contrast 3,000 compared to 2,000, mathematically this is 50% more but in reality would it make a visible difference?



My fellow countryman, if you had bought this a year ago, you would have made a good choice, but right now there are much better machines like the Fengmi T1, which in turn cost a thousand Euros more. In short, align the unit manually without any keystone or zoom applied and use the suggested settings in this thread by Ian Laurie. I take it for granted, you have already bought an ALR screen for it. There is nothing more you can do beyond these things. This is the cheapest RGB laser out there and it is bound to have its shortcomings. This is why they also say in our country that cheap is expensive.


----------



## JackB

vadom said:


> Hi all,
> last week I received a Polaris 4K from amazon and since this is my first experience with projectors I'm uncertain about some of its aspects.
> 
> I couldn't get it to focus at 80", it is mentioned in the user manual but it is impossible, the upper part of the screen will get focused only above 100".
> Color alignment, when I look closely it seems that the colors are not aligned (Pictures bellow).
> Rainbow effect, as I had zero experience with projectors I wasn't sure if I am susceptible. Moving my focus across the screen I could notice it, especially with white subtitles.
> Black levels, I'm not really sure what to expect here, livable but not so great.
> Sound, good enough for casual watching, would definitely use proper speakers for serious movie watching.
> Smart features, not really that important as I will use it with external sources, the amount of configuration settings is impressive though.
> Brightness and Color seem to be very good, but again, I'm a newbie.
> My concern is if those issues are generic or if I got a bad unit (focus at 80", color misalignment). Also regarding the rainbow effect and the contrast, is there any way to improve them? I see that other laser UST projectors have higher contrast 3,000 compared to 2,000, mathematically this is 50% more but in reality would it make a visible difference?
> 
> 
> View attachment 3221067
> View attachment 3221067
> View attachment 3221068


I will repeat what Humax said. For a better contrast picture use IanLaurie's settings. Do not rely on the factory settings. If you don't know how to apply Ian's settings ask for guidance here.


----------



## Rosebudd

This is the absolute worst projector ever. I put it right back in the box after 30 minutes of usage. Absolute horrible. I would much rather have paid a few hundreds more for a solid brand....


----------



## JackB

Rosebudd said:


> This is the absolute worst projector ever. I put it right back in the box after 30 minutes of usage. Absolute horrible. I would much rather have paid a few hundreds more for a solid brand....


I've been on this forum for over twenty years now and this post by Rosebudd is the poorest that I can remember ever seeing!


----------



## lattiboy

Rosebudd said:


> This is the absolute worst projector ever. I put it right back in the box after 30 minutes of usage. Absolute horrible. I would much rather have paid a few hundreds more for a solid brand....


The thing has quirks, but it’s absurd to say it’s bad when it equals projectors double it’s price in picture quality and is quiet as a church mouse. If you have a 100-120 inch screen and are familiar with how short throw projector work, there aren’t any better US based options around until you get to literally $3500 or so.


----------



## IanLaurie

Davita said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I’ve been reading along here for a long time and finally bought my Polaris 4K, which is my first projector ever. So far, it looks good, even while using it on a plain white wall.
> Maybe some of you can give me a hint on the following things:
> 
> 1. is it possible to pass through Dolby atmos from an Apple TV 4K to the Sonos ARC? (Through DD+ because no eArc) I can get the symbol of Dolby atmos on movies from streaming, but the sound doesn’t come through. I have to deactivate Dolby Atmos and change to Dolby 5.1 on Apple TV to get sound. Is there anyway I can get Dolby atmos on my Sonos System?
> 2. My corners and in general the upper row is really blurred. Can this get reduced anyway?
> 3. I am using the settings from @IanLaurie , thanks for the work! The colors seem way better, but it all looks really dark. In dark scenes you can’t get any details anymore and everything just looks black. Can this get fixed?
> 4. Does anyone ever contacted the support? I am kinda afraid, that when there are technical problems, there is no support or guarantee. I bought it directly over the website.
> 
> thanks in advance for any help and keep up the good work guys! Glad I found this thread!


Try changing your HDR to Medium or High dynamic. For some reason it brightens the image dramatically. Much easier to see in daylight and still nice and punchy.


----------



## IanLaurie

vadom said:


> Hi all,
> last week I received a Polaris 4K from amazon and since this is my first experience with projectors I'm uncertain about some of its aspects.
> 
> I couldn't get it to focus at 80", it is mentioned in the user manual but it is impossible, the upper part of the screen will get focused only above 100".
> Color alignment, when I look closely it seems that the colors are not aligned (Pictures bellow).
> Rainbow effect, as I had zero experience with projectors I wasn't sure if I am susceptible. Moving my focus across the screen I could notice it, especially with white subtitles.
> Black levels, I'm not really sure what to expect here, livable but not so great.
> Sound, good enough for casual watching, would definitely use proper speakers for serious movie watching.
> Smart features, not really that important as I will use it with external sources, the amount of configuration settings is impressive though.
> Brightness and Color seem to be very good, but again, I'm a newbie.
> My concern is if those issues are generic or if I got a bad unit (focus at 80", color misalignment). Also regarding the rainbow effect and the contrast, is there any way to improve them? I see that other laser UST projectors have higher contrast 3,000 compared to 2,000, mathematically this is 50% more but in reality would it make a visible difference?
> 
> 
> View attachment 3221067
> View attachment 3221067
> View attachment 3221068


Set your sharpness to 0. You will have to do this for both standard and HDR settings, but it will almost completely eliminate this chromatic misalignment issue.


----------



## vadom

Thanks guys for all the suggestions, I'll give them a go.


----------



## vadom

IanLaurie said:


> Set your sharpness to 0. You will have to do this for both standard and HDR settings, but it will almost completely eliminate this chromatic misalignment issue.


I can't say it improved much, I'm testing it with a calibration template though. While watching movies from a distance, it is noticeable mostly on subtitles. This could be improved with software tricks but I'm sure that the manufacturer will never bother.


----------



## vadom

humax said:


> My fellow countryman, if you had bought this a year ago, you would have made a good choice, but right now there are much better machines like the Fengmi T1, which in turn cost a thousand Euros more. In short, align the unit manually without any keystone or zoom applied and use the suggested settings in this thread by Ian Laurie. I take it for granted, you have already bought an ALR screen for it. There is nothing more you can do beyond these things. This is the cheapest RGB laser out there and it is bound to have its shortcomings. This is why they also say in our country that cheap is expensive.


Hi humax, are there any independent reviews comparing directly the Fengmi T1 with the Polaris 4k? People were expecting the vava chroma to be superior but I saw from reviews that it has its issues and a much higher price tag. The price of the Fengmi T1 from Ali is double the price I paid for the Polaris, is it 2 times better though? ALPD,DV,B&W all sound great in paper but the most important part are the lenses. I guess we will have to wait a bit till we get some independent reviews. Unfortunately I don't have an ALR screen yet as I wanted to try it first, my biggest problem now is that I cannot use it for 80" and 100" seems too much for my space. Overall, watching movies is pretty decent, the problems arise when you move really close and look for them.


----------



## vadom

Rosebudd said:


> This is the absolute worst projector ever. I put it right back in the box after 30 minutes of usage. Absolute horrible. I would much rather have paid a few hundreds more for a solid brand....


Hi Rosebudd, can you please let us know what problems you had with the projector?


----------



## humax

vadom said:


> Hi humax, are there any independent reviews comparing directly the Fengmi T1 with the Polaris 4k? People were expecting the vava chroma to be superior but I saw from reviews that it has its issues and a much higher price tag. The price of the Fengmi T1 from Ali is double the price I paid for the Polaris, is it 2 times better though? ALPD,DV,B&W all sound great in paper but the most important part are the lenses. I guess we will have to wait a bit till we get some independent reviews. Unfortunately I don't have an ALR screen yet as I wanted to try it first, my biggest problem now is that I cannot use it for 80" and 100" seems too much for my space. Overall, watching movies is pretty decent, the problems arise when you move really close and look for them.




My friend, you are not taking ust projection seriously, unless you have paired your projector with an ALR screen. Any such projector is limited, when projecting on a wall or a white screen. Things like soft focus or chromatic aberration cannot be fixed, either you have them or you don't. As for Polaris vs T1, there is a 1100-1200$ price difference for Greece and yes the latter is a better image quality unit and the extra money is worth it.


----------



## vadom

humax said:


> My friend, you are not taking ust projection seriously, unless you have paired your projector with an ALR screen. Any such projector is limited, when projecting on a wall or a white screen. Things like soft focus or chromatic aberration cannot be fixed, either you have them or you don't. As for Polaris vs T1, there is a 1100-1200$ price difference for Greece and yes the latter is a better image quality unit and the extra money is worth it.


"the latter is a better image quality unit"
How do we know that? For the screen I agree and as you said CA is not relevant to the screen. Colors are really good, even without a screen, as for the contrast I agree that it is difficult to judge without a proper screen and the right conditions.


----------



## vadom

IanLaurie said:


> Set your sharpness to 0. You will have to do this for both standard and HDR settings, but it will almost completely eliminate this chromatic misalignment issue.


Hi Ian, I tried a simple test with GIMP, I created a grid and split the RGB to 3 layers. By adding some offset to those layers, the misalignment was reduced a lot, even with sharpness at 100. I guess trying to reach the Bomaker support would be fruitless unless someone here has any connection with them.

PS, this will not eliminate the issue, it will move it to the bottom of the screen. The colors are aligned at the central-low part of the screen and get misaligned the further away you get. By shifting the layers you reduce the CA at the central part of the screen and make it worse at the lower part (black bars). I might try to apply this hack to a small video file and compare them.


----------



## Rosebudd

vadom said:


> Hi Rosebudd, can you please let us know what problems you had with the projector?


I made a post about it but my main issues were:
Zero Adjustment capabilities.
*No keystone vertical or horizontal
*No tilt adjustment
* No horizontal or vertical shift adjustment
*No edge adjustment 
*No zoom in or out (i know there is a zoom under image settings but that's not really helpful)

So unless you have it positioned perfectly at the perfect height, it's useless since you can't adjust anything on it. I mounted it on the ceiling so... To me it was useless.


On roku, it wouldn't even play non 4k native shows like I tried Seinfeld for example. The whole projector would "shut off" and show an error message. Only way to get out of it was to restart the roku and even then I never got some shows to play due to the error(yes I have high quality high speed hdmi)

It was a massive fail of a projector.


----------



## Rosebudd

JackB said:


> I've been on this forum for over twenty years now and this post by Rosebudd is the poorest that I can remember ever seeing!


I've made whole posts detailing my experience mate. Just replied with the reasons above


----------



## Rosebudd

lattiboy said:


> The thing has quirks, but it’s absurd to say it’s bad when it equals projectors double it’s price in picture quality and is quiet as a church mouse. If you have a 100-120 inch screen and are familiar with how short throw projector work, there aren’t any better US based options around until you get to literally $3500 or so.


I really wanted to like it trust me.

I have an optoma gt1080 short throw that served me well for many years. I really wanted to move up to a laser. I thought I'd just swap them out and upgrade... Unfortunately I couldn't adjust the projector to fit my 100" screen since it doesn't allow for adjustments. Not to mention it weights a ton so mounting it on the ceiling was definitely a pain in the ass. 

So even though it's cheap. You get what u pay for


----------



## humax

vadom said:


> "the latter is a better image quality unit"
> How do we know that? For the screen I agree and as you said CA is not relevant to the screen. Colors are really good, even without a screen, as for the contrast I agree that it is difficult to judge without a proper screen and the right conditions.



Perhaps by the fact the T1 has double the contrast of the Polaris and the Xiaomi/Fengmi units offer a precision optical block? Polaris is just a VFM unit with off the shelf components.


----------



## jakechoy

Rosebudd said:


> I really wanted to like it trust me.
> 
> I have an optoma gt1080 short throw that served me well for many years. I really wanted to move up to a laser. I thought I'd just swap them out and upgrade... Unfortunately I couldn't adjust the projector to fit my 100" screen since it doesn't allow for adjustments. Not to mention it weights a ton so mounting it on the ceiling was definitely a pain in the ass.
> 
> So even though it's cheap. You get what u pay for


I didn't look at the Polaris and based on your comments, it seems similar to the U2 Tri-laser with fixed focus/size - something which made me avoid. But I still went to the dealer to test the demo unit in person and it convinced me not to go with it.

And the U2 wasn't bargain basement price. It was priced the same as the Xiaomi C2. I think buyer beware in terms of knowing the specs before making the plunge.


----------



## vadom

Rosebudd said:


> I made a post about it but my main issues were:
> Zero Adjustment capabilities.
> *No keystone vertical or horizontal
> *No tilt adjustment
> * No horizontal or vertical shift adjustment
> *No edge adjustment
> *No zoom in or out (i know there is a zoom under image settings but that's not really helpful)
> 
> So unless you have it positioned perfectly at the perfect height, it's useless since you can't adjust anything on it. I mounted it on the ceiling so... To me it was useless.
> 
> 
> On roku, it wouldn't even play non 4k native shows like I tried Seinfeld for example. The whole projector would "shut off" and show an error message. Only way to get out of it was to restart the roku and even then I never got some shows to play due to the error(yes I have high quality high speed hdmi)
> 
> It was a massive fail of a projector.


I see, I don't think they advertised those features (at least on amazon) so not having them was expected in my case.


----------



## vadom

humax said:


> Perhaps by the fact the T1 has double the contrast of the Polaris and the Xiaomi/Fengmi units offer a precision optical block? Polaris is just a VFM unit with off the shelf components.


Hopefully we will soon get an unbiased review that will clarify everything. Especially if 2 x price equals 2 x quality (vava chroma???).


----------



## humax

vadom said:


> Hopefully we will soon get an unbiased review that will clarify everything. Especially if 2 x price equals 2 x quality (vava chroma???).



No, it is not double the quality, but a strong contrast is the basic pillar of picture enjoyment and Polaris is simply weak is this sector. Even the Chroma does not hit peak ALPD contrast like the Xiaomi/Fengmi units do. Anyway, enjoy the Polaris for what it is and simply do not expect things it cannot do. Also get an ALR screen for it in order to optimize its performance.


----------



## Rosebudd

vadom said:


> I see, I don't think they advertised those features (at least on amazon) so not having them was expected in my case.












LOL this is the response I got from them. 

So yeah if you have a way to have perfect height, distance from screen and a platform that allows you to tilt. I guess it could be a good choice? Maybe? It's just very hard to cope with no way to adjust the screen at all.


----------



## vadom

Rosebudd said:


> View attachment 3221514
> 
> 
> LOL this is the response I got from them.
> 
> So yeah if you have a way to have perfect height, distance from screen and a platform that allows you to tilt. I guess it could be a good choice? Maybe? It's just very hard to cope with no way to adjust the screen at all.


I guess they meant to adjust the four knobs (legs) on the bottom of the projector. Actually this would be far better than an electronic keystone correction.


----------



## JackB

Rosebudd said:


> I've made whole posts detailing my experience mate. Just replied with the reasons above


I read your post above. Your opinion seems to boil down to one problem; picture alignment. I have a home theater room with a ceiling mounted projector using a high quality mount. I found it practically impossible to get perfect screen alignment and the projector was more than ten feet away from the screen. I don’t believe this tech is designed for ceiling mounting use except maybe in a classroom or board room where alignment isn’t critical. 

Take it off the ceiling, put it on a table for experimenting and I’m sure you’ll find set up is magnitude easier. Like posted above, using keystone adjustment tools provided in other models reduces the picture quality.


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## lattiboy

Rosebudd said:


> I made a post about it but my main issues were:
> Zero Adjustment capabilities.
> *No keystone vertical or horizontal
> *No tilt adjustment
> * No horizontal or vertical shift adjustment
> *No edge adjustment
> *No zoom in or out (i know there is a zoom under image settings but that's not really helpful)
> 
> So unless you have it positioned perfectly at the perfect height, it's useless since you can't adjust anything on it. I mounted it on the ceiling so... To me it was useless.
> 
> 
> On roku, it wouldn't even play non 4k native shows like I tried Seinfeld for example. The whole projector would "shut off" and show an error message. Only way to get out of it was to restart the roku and even then I never got some shows to play due to the error(yes I have high quality high speed hdmi)
> 
> It was a massive fail of a projector.


I sympathize with your complaints about features you assumed were available. This thing is prefocused to 100” and any variance from that will degrade quality somewhat. I used it on a 120” screen and there was some softness, but it was only noticeable on test patterns and at extremely short viewing distances. Still looked excellent for actual videos and games in practical use.


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## Rosebudd

lattiboy said:


> I sympathize with your complaints about features you assumed were available. This thing is prefocused to 100” and any variance from that will degrade quality somewhat. I used it on a 120” screen and there was some softness, but it was only noticeable on test patterns and at extremely short viewing distances. Still looked excellent for actual videos and games in practical use.


I understand but achieving perfect level horizontally and vertically is just not realistic. I have it mounted in a small bedroom. With my old outdated optoma gt1080, I can adjust everything the way I want. It's very flexible. I only assumed that a cutting edge projector would have even more features, not less. The image quality was in fact, great, but it doesn't make sense for vast majority of people if we're being honest.


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## lattiboy

Rosebudd said:


> I understand but achieving perfect level horizontally and vertically is just not realistic. I have it mounted in a small bedroom. With my old outdated optoma gt1080, I can adjust everything the way I want. It's very flexible. I only assumed that a cutting edge projector would have even more features, not less. The image quality was in fact, great, but it doesn't make sense for vast majority of people if we're being honest.


I agree, but I believe theory was that you were able to get a much better and simpler lens if it was completely fixed and focus locked. I’m not defending it, but I understand why they did it.

Apparently something has changed as Hisense is now offering focus for the first time on their USTs.


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## AtlasShrugged08

fwiw (on the above ^ discussion) - I am on a 125 inch screen and I don't see any blurriness/out of focus issues in general viewing of 4k/non 4k movies and shows. (yes, its a big pain to align it as a perfect rectangle with the screen but there's zero better alternatives out there in this budget especially if its laser and UST).


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## IanLaurie

The complaints over setup are based in consumer culture. When a technology manages to finally trickle down to the point where it can remotely be considered affordable, it initially comes with feature trade offs that average consumers aren’t used to. Picture image can be fantastic, but the trade offs are that it isn’t rich with consumer centric features. Some can live with that trade off to finally see what they have been looking for. Others are not fine with that trade off as convenience is more important to them. They are not and should not be early adopters of these types of technologies because they will always be disappointed. Those who could care less about features so long as it’s main purpose is highly successful, well we find other ways to deal with the quirks and enjoy it. Neither way is smarter or better or right. It’s just personal preference. For those on here (like myself) who appreciate the 4K tri laser, and the low entry price, and are willing to deal with the inconvenience of the setup, tweaking, and lack of features, well it works great. Those who don’t or won’t want to deal with those issues, well the options are spend more money, or wait. Either is a reasonable choice.


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## eezrider

I have been experimenting with the Polaris for several weeks now and just received a Vividstorm 120" CLR screen. The impact on the image is incredible!! To all those projecting on a white wall, do yourself a favor if you can afford it and get a UST-specific CLR/ALR screen. The image is just so much punchier, with darker blacks making the Polaris's amazing colors still richer. My screen cost more than the projector (!) but was the only practical solution (it raises up and will be used in a cabinet and raised when needed in front of a 65" wall mounted OLED TV) in non-light controlled living room. I was worried that I had wasted my money, but the effect is incredible.


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## humax

eezrider said:


> I have been experimenting with the Polaris for several weeks now and just received a Vividstorm 120" CLR screen. The impact on the image is incredible!! To all those projecting on a white wall, do yourself a favor if you can afford it and get a UST-specific CLR/ALR screen. The image is just so much punchier, with darker blacks making the Polaris's amazing colors still richer. My screen cost more than the projector (!) but was the only practical solution (it raises up and will be used in a cabinet and raised when needed in front of a 65" wall mounted OLED TV) in non-light controlled living room. I was worried that I had wasted my money, but the effect is incredible.



Yes, Vividstorm are great screens and very flexible in their placement, but high cost is an issue. As for the results, you should not be surprised. This is the way an ust is meant to be used and in fact the lesser contrast units are the ones benefiting more from a CLR screen. In short, such a screen is a must for ust projection.


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## eezrider

Rosebudd said:


> I understand but achieving perfect level horizontally and vertically is just not realistic. I have it mounted in a small bedroom. With my old outdated optoma gt1080, I can adjust everything the way I want. It's very flexible. I only assumed that a cutting edge projector would have even more features, not less. The image quality was in fact, great, but it doesn't make sense for vast majority of people if we're being honest.


UST projectors are targeted for use below and in front of the screen. While they can be ceiling-mounted I have never seen one actively promoted for that mounting configuration. So I don't agree with the characterization that, 'they don't make sense for the vast majority of people'. Who are all these people who expect to ceiling mount one of these? Having said that, I fully agree that some form of electronic keystone adjustment would be good to support, although the same adjustment can be achieved with higher quality by adjusting the feet. One of the drawbacks of the current DLP chips is that they project a pale border around the image. If you use electronic keystone adjustment you will see a pale wedge shape projected either side of the image, and the image will now be scaled (and so marginally less sharp) instead of projected 1:1.


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## humax

For those skeptical about the purpose of an ALR screen, check out the owl image after 7:35 vs a white wall. Quite revealing.

The New Vividstorm S PRO Electric Tension UST ALR Floor Screen | Latest Version - YouTube


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## IanLaurie

Back these comments up 100%. The ALR screen I have makes a huge difference.


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## triplington

I'm wondering if I have a misaligned unit. The photo is the center of the test pattern on a 100" screen. The misalignment is across the whole screen. Is this normal? It's not too noticeable on movies but on text it gets really distracting. I bought the unit through Walmart a couple of weeks ago and I'm thinking of trying a replacement but only if this is not normal.


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## eezrider

triplington said:


> I'm wondering if I have a misaligned unit. The photo is the center of the test pattern on a 100" screen. The misalignment is across the whole screen. Is this normal? It's not too noticeable on movies but on text it gets really distracting. I bought the unit through Walmart a couple of weeks ago and I'm thinking of trying a replacement but only if this is not normal.
> View attachment 3223894
> 
> [/QU
> I see something very similar. It is just (but barely) noticeable at viewing distance on white text (we watch with subtitles a lot!) but otherwise I don't sense it impacts general content which always appears tack sharp. Remember, you never watch a movie this close to the screen!


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## eezrider

See these test screens


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## eezrider




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## eezrider

Shots were taken from an old Disney WOW disk, which has just 1080p content. You can see that for video content its much less noticeable. Also, make sure your sharpening is set to 0 as that helps reduce the impact.


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## IanLaurie

triplington said:


> I'm wondering if I have a misaligned unit. The photo is the center of the test pattern on a 100" screen. The misalignment is across the whole screen. Is this normal? It's not too noticeable on movies but on text it gets really distracting. I bought the unit through Walmart a couple of weeks ago and I'm thinking of trying a replacement but only if this is not normal.
> View attachment 3223894


Looks about the same as what everyone else has seen. Sharpening to zero does help a fair bit. Honestly though, after all the tweaking I’ve done on mine, I don’t see it at all. But it’s also been awhile since I threw up the test pattern they supply. But yes for me, turning sharpness to 0 eliminated it enough that it’s no longer an issue.


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## triplington

This is with the sharpness set to 0. If this is normal, then I can live with it. It's across the whole screen, I wonder if there will ever be a software update that can adjust for panel misalignment.


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## IanLaurie

This is normal. I’m not too confident there will ever be an update beyond the day one update that came out when they first started to ship. Give it some time. If it bothers you too much, send it back. Honestly though, while watching a show or film, I’ve never noticed it. I’ll throw up my test pattern tonight and get back to you.


----------



## PsiPr0

AtlasShrugged08 said:


> Harmony Hub
> 
> Has any one tried the bomaker with the Logitech Harmony hub?
> 
> I have 3 remotes as of now - the Bomaker remote, the Denon receiver remote and the Amazon Firetv remote. (my firetv is hooked into the receiver so it cannot control bomaker).
> I have a spare Harmony that i am thinking of using but dont know how to make it work with the bomaker. All i will really use from the bomaker remote is the power on and off so if the bomaker power on/off could somehow be controlled by the harmony remote then i can just that one remote.
> 
> (I have not understood why i cant upgrade the Android OS to be latest so that I could install the usual netflix, prime etc apps on it - hence the firetv in the mix)


Harmony Hub should be able to easily find the codes for the Bomaker at setup of the activity on the Harmony app.


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## IanLaurie

So I looked at the test pattern. It’s not really visible from any kind of distance, but yes when I get within a foot or so it looks pretty much same as yours.


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## triplington

Thanks for the feedback. I don't know if this was the case before but units are now shipping with almost all of your color setting as default.


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## IanLaurie

triplington said:


> Thanks for the feedback. I don't know if this was the case before but units are now shipping with almost all of your color setting as default.


Are you serious?! Hahaha that’s hilarious. I only posted my latest settings a few weeks back so you might want to have a look. The new colours are much more accurate. Anyone know if they are hiring?


----------



## vadom

triplington said:


> I'm wondering if I have a misaligned unit. The photo is the center of the test pattern on a 100" screen. The misalignment is across the whole screen. Is this normal? It's not too noticeable on movies but on text it gets really distracting. I bought the unit through Walmart a couple of weeks ago and I'm thinking of trying a replacement but only if this is not normal.
> View attachment 3223894


Mine is the same, zeroing the sharpness makes it less visible but at the expense of resolution, it's blurring the transition from white to black.


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## IanLaurie

vadom said:


> Mine is the same, zeroing the sharpness makes it less visible but at the expense of resolution, it's blurring the transition from white to black.


It should not effect resolution at all. Sharpening is a post process designed to give the illusion of a sharper image by increasing high contrast zones. It does not effect resolution output. Setting it to zero simply turns the post process off, and does not add blurring. If you have a quality 4K source you should not need any sharpening to have a nice sharp well defined image.


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## IanLaurie

Please read the following for a better understanding of what sharpening does to the image.









Your TV's Sharpness Setting: What You Need to Know


One picture setting option available on most TVs and video projectors is sharpness. Find out what it does, how to use it, and when not to use it.




www.lifewire.com


----------



## Ricoflashback

humax said:


> For those skeptical about the purpose of an ALR screen, check out the owl image after 7:35 vs a white wall. Quite revealing.
> 
> The New Vividstorm S PRO Electric Tension UST ALR Floor Screen | Latest Version - YouTube


That looks nice but I still think you get a better image with a fixed screen. And, that's way too low for our household. Our cats would climb all over the projector and probably go at the screen with a scene like from the Life of Pi. : > )


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## ConnorsDad

Ricoflashback said:


> That looks nice but I still think you get a better image with a fixed screen. And, that's way too low for our household. Our cats would climb all over the projector and probably go at the screen with a scene like from the Life of Pi. : > )


Lol. My cats were the reason I sold my VAVA, but the price of replacement lamps for the JVC tormented me enough that I switched back to laser and ust. I like the Bomaker much more than the VAVA. Oddly enough, the cats haven't been laying on the Bomaker...yet...I guess it doesn't get as warm. 🙀


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## pastorteacher

Have been happily enjoying the Bomaker (do think it was better than the Samsung LSP7T). However, I finally was able to nab a Samsung LSP9T for a crazy low price. Wanted to do a side-by-side with those two for a long time. If the 9t is superior by a significant degree will keep it.


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## IanLaurie

pastorteacher said:


> Have been happily enjoying the Bomaker (do think it was better than the Samsung LSP7T). However, I finally was able to nab a Samsung LSP9T for a crazy low price. Wanted to do a side-by-side with those two for a long time. If the 9t is superior by a significant degree will keep it.


I was curious about this one myself, let us know what you find.


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## spexman

*Alas, an Objective Look at the Polaris*
First of all, I would like to thank all the AVS Forum members for their collective comments and help in the Polaris thread, with a special thank you to Ian Laurie for all his efforts and encouragement. And a simple disclosure—I have no affiliation to any electronics company—just putting this out there in attempts to help fellow enthusiasts out.
*BACKGROUND/INTRO*
My set-up at home is a 150”(16:9) plain white, 1.09 gain, Elite tab tensioned motorized front projection screen. It sits in my basement home theatre room, where light control is maximized—it is essentially a bat cave, void of virtually all significant ambient light. My first foray into front digital projection was a Benq W5000 and I made myself learn how to use the free HCFR calibration software and purchased a compatible sensor such that I can harness the projector’s maximum image potential. While the W5K, as it was known as, put up a razor sharp 150” 1080p image, it unfortunately had a very poor native contrast ratio(502:1), and an extremely dismal calibrated lumen output(322). On a 150” screen, that combination was a disaster, leading to a ‘dim and dingy, albeit it sharp, image’. At that time, there were few affordable projectors to choose from, and so it had to suffice. Thankfully, not too long after, I exchanged it for the W6000, a game changer, giving way better contrast(1250:1 native) AND lumens(1060). It also had a CMS which calibrated to give 91% of Rec 709. While many 1080p DLP models were to follow, for the money, none would be significantly better overall than the W6K, and so it stayed as my reference projector for about a decade.
Well, 4K along came and with it, the itch to upgrade. About a year ago, I pulled the trigger on the Benq HT3550 and hoped that I would not be disappointed. Again, I did a thorough calibration and the results were, for the most part, quite good. The HT3550 has a motorized filter that enters the light path to increase gamut for HDR10 content. The relevant calibrated results were as follows: with the filter off, native CR=979, lumens=1,230, DCI P3 gamut=80.3%. With filter in place, native CR=1,200, lumens=644, P3 gamut=92.3%. Before I comment on the above numbers, I will tell you that for the money, the HT3550 is very hard to beat. It has a very sharp lens which puts up a very impressively detailed 4K image. It has a CMS, does native 24p flawlessly, has a dynamic iris which really helps improve black levels(though mostly unnoticeable, you do sometimes catch it flickering), and handles HDR10 tone mapping VERY well. There are virtually no noticeable artifacts with HDR10 material. Compared to my W6K, the contrast and lumens were virtually a wash. Yes, the 4K detail was nice, and an obvious upgrade. But, to my surprise, that was not the biggest factor. What really made me say ‘wow’ was the increase in colour gamut. The picture took on such a rich look—it truly made me realize just how important the colour gamut is to the overall quality of the image. The BIG fly in the ointment for the HT3550 though, particularly on a 150” screen, is the lumen hit you take when you engage the filter. You lose almost half your lumens! In spite of this, I STILL prefer to watch ALL my HDR10 content with the filter engaged to enjoy that enhanced colour, and try not to focus on the relatively ‘dimness’ of the image….
…with that in mind, I was EAGERLY looking for a replacement projector that gives me both that increased gamut WITH lumens to spare. After all, not only does a 150” screen need lumens to pop, so does HDR by definition. When the first tri-laser projectors came along, they were way out of my price league; I only found out about the Polaris a few months ago, and at its price, I simply had to take notice. I read the entire thread, and surmised that the Polaris is promising, though there was a lot of debate/opinion on black level. Black levels can be subjective so it was hard to know exactly what the contrast would be; now that I own the projector and have calibrated it, I thought it appropriate to share the values with you, because the numbers don’t lie(and there does not seem to be any review online with calibrated numbers!). Keep in mind that black level/contrast is one aspect of the picture. Yes, it is a big aspect, I agree and so I will attempt to answer if the contrast is ‘good enough’, alongside at looking at all the other critical elements that make up for a good home theatre projector. Well, here it goes—the Polaris by numbers…and a little bit more.
*SOME CLARIFICATIONS and TIPS
Focus/chromatic aberration*-yes, this is a fixed focus projector. This means that there is NO way for the user to adjust the focus on the projector itself. The focus uniformity(and the light uniformity) is really good, particularly for a short throw which requires complicated optics. The upper right corner seems to be the most sensitive to blur(taming corner/peripheral distortions are always the hardest thing for lenses to do), and so instead of providing the screen size to provide optimal centre focus, it is best to give you results for the upper right corner focus(a shout out to vadom for promtping me to re-measure and re-calculate). At 84", that corner has minimally detectable blur; at 96", that corner achieves its best focus, albeit it the bottom left just starts to lose its optimum focus. At 110", the entire screen starts to become JUST noticeably blurry. And so, with this information, I would suggest that on its own, a screen size of 84-110" would provide a very sharp image--the sweet spot being 90-100". Anything bigger than 110" requires an accessory lens to help it focus. At 150”(my screen size), the focus suffers significantly, but can be corrected nicely by a custom lens manufactured in an ophthalmic lab placed on the projector’s exit window (see below). My unit shows no significant chromatic aberration(CA), by no means more than my HT3550 did; yes, there is some CA, as witnessed by the white centre cross test pattern having some red and blue fringes to it, but, for me, at typical viewing distances, the CA is not noticeable.(For more information about the corrective lens, please send me a PM) See here for an update in lens design/performance: Bomaker Polaris 4K Ultra Short Throw Laser TV


























*Ophthalmic lens on window 150” focus without lens 150” focus with lens in place

Actuator Control* – this is a selectable menu item under “Light Source” and perhaps many(like myself) were not exactly sure what it is for. Well, it turns out that it turns on the 4K pixel shifting! When it is off, the projector is showing native 1080p. When it is on, it is pixel shifting to 4K. From a Kris Deering article in Sound & Vision, “the optical actuator is a glass pane that’s mounted somewhere in the light path after the DMD and before the lens. To bring about the pixel shifting, the glass is set into oscillation by what’s described as a voice coil…” So, for those who have it off, please turn it on to enjoy 4K! I discovered this while calibrating. Here are 2 jpegs, one with Actuator off, one with it on. If you zoom up close to the letters, the ‘off’ image shows individual pixels, whereas they disappear and the letters appear smoother in the ‘on’ image.

















*CMS* – I was excited to see a complete CMS included(as well, of course, as 2 point grey scale controls). Truly, any serious home theatre projector should have these controls. By utilizing these controls, this projector can be calibrated to near perfection, resolving any ‘tint’ or ‘push’ issues that have been discussed in this forum. Proof will follow shortly.
*24p & Motion Handling – *using the floating chili peppers pattern from the Spears & Munsil disc, the Polaris handled them smoothly, without the need to engage the MEMC. I compared it to my HT3550 and the performance was identical. In fact, motion was always handled smoothly by the Polaris regardless of the incoming frame rate, without the need for MEMC. I personally prefer ‘native’ frame rates and dislike the soap opera effect MEMC introduces. And I commend the Polaris for achieving this.
*Colour Space – *it appears that the Polaris ONLY uses Rec2020 as its colour space. If it receives a Rec709 signal, it automatically maps it to Rec2020, leading to ‘over blown’ colours*.* It would be nice if this could be rectified via a firmware update. That being said, the vast majority of my viewing is 4K HDR which utilizes Rec2020. As it stands, for Rec709 material, the work around is to lower the Saturation setting such that the colours appear more natural and not over blown.
*Below Black & Above White – *can be achieved by selecting 0-255 in the Color Space setting in the Menu.

*The Actual Numbers
Contrast/Lumens/CT/Gamma*

*Setting*CRlumensCT(avg)delta EGammaUncalibratedSports204​2339​>12,000Game244​2238​>12,000Bright402​2999​>12,000Soft550​1420​10,500​Movies254​2984​>12,000*CALIBRATED**HDR lamp 10 (native)**1038*​*2410*​6500​0.4-8.2*HDR dynamic high**2561*​*2332*​*6500*​*0.1-4.1*HDR low dynamic1640​2439​HDR lamp 51173​1851​HDR lamp 01106​1349​SDR lamp 10 (native)975​2385​6500​0.3-1.52.38​SDR dynamic high2060​2353​6700​0.5-4.72.47​
The numbers speak for themselves—the presets really do an immense injustice to this projector-poor contrast and colour temperature and thus a poor image out of the box. It is really an ironic injustice, because after calibration, the numbers are really quite good. While the native contrast is by no means earth shattering, it falls right in line with similar .47” DLP XPR set ups. For example, it is similar to my HT3550. The dynamic high setting really boosts the contrast to a decent level, with no noticeable pumping or clipping artifacts. It is transparent. I am sure many may comment that this is below the Xiaomi/Fengmi benchmark of about 3000:1 native. It is below, but not by a massive amount. I personally have not seen any of the Xiaomi/Fengmi units, but am skeptical if this truly is a native number. If it is native, it represents a three-fold increase, which is a huge amount and a major accomplishment. However, it may be that there is a non-defeatable dynamic laser dimming process taking place, more aggressive than the High Dynamic on the Polaris. Another point of suspicion is the fact that turning on dynamic dimming on the Xiaomi/Fengmi units yields absolutely no contrast improvement (unlike the Polaris, where the dynamic dimming does). And lastly, a quote from their 2019 report reads, "During the reporting period, we released ALPD® 4.0, which has been applied in many product series. At present, we are focusing on the development of *ALPD® 5.0*. This upgrading will not only increase the *dynamic contrast* and peak luminance of laser display equipment, and reduce the luminance of dark field, but also maintain relatively high light effect and high cost-performance ratio.” Notice, their efforts are to increase the dynamic contrast in order to produce darker blacks. If currently turning the dynamic contrast on makes no difference, it appears then that truly, they have a non-defeatable dynamic dimming system in place all the time. And so, if those units are relying on dynamic contrast, then the Polaris is not so far off. Finally, the lumen count is phenomenal, though from the comments on the forum, this is no surprise.
*Gamma and Grey Scale*
Again, the charts tell the tale(SDR-gamma first, then gray scale).
























HDR Grey Scale

No issues here—a job well done. These are excellent graphs, both in SDR and HDR, with very low delta Es, as listed on the initial chart.

*Colour Gamut *
I don’t think there is any surprise here—the gamut is huge, encompassing virtually all of Rec 2020. This is the actual graph from the calibrated HCFR results:









What is not shown is the luminance delta E values, which range from 1.9-6.3. These results are exceptional, and kudos to the CMS which allows one to dial x,y and luminance in as close as possible to perfection. The green primary is even higher, giving an even larger colour space, at the expense of losing a small sliver of Rec2020.
And putting the primary x,y points into the Gamut calculator yields this result:









To my knowledge, this is the largest colour gamut available in any display device and the cherry on top is that it calibrates to near perfection!
*Sharpness – *as mentioned in the Focus section(and on several posts), the image is very sharp—comparable to the HT3550 which has been commended in several reputable reviews for its sharpness. Here they are in comparison—HT3550 on the left
:
















I was also able to just make out both(vertical and horizontal) 2160p patterns as witnessed below--this is quite exceptional, particularly because they are not in the centre of the screen(best optics), but on the right hand side!




















*Subjective Comments – the sum of the parts
RBE* – I am not overly sensitive to RBE, but do notice it on occasion on my HT3550. It is virtually non-existent on the Polaris. For me, on the Polaris, it is a non-issue.
*Speckle* – a lot has been written about laser speckle and red push from tri-laser projectors. The Polaris has NEITHER. At least not on my screen(and note, my screen is NOT an ALR type, for those wondering if you MUST pair this projector with an ALR screen, the answer is no, as long as you can control ambient light). Speckle and red push are both non-issues as well for the Polaris.
*Motion* – as I mentioned in my introduction, motion handling is a major point for me, particularly proper handling of 24p content. Again, the Polaris delivers. A big feature for the Bluray format, when it came out, was that it offered 24p output, to match theatrical content’s frame rate for the first time in consumer electronics. It would be a shame to have to watch 24p content at 60p on a 4K projector.
*Audible fan noise – *my meter starts at 60dB, so I had to measure right at the fan port, where it is 60dB—in comparison, my HT3550 at the fan port is 78dB! At a typical viewing distance, the Polaris is whisper quiet, it really is.
*HDR Performance – *First of all, I can confirm that there is no banding at all on the 10 bit test pattern, as seen below(for more on bit depth, see Bomaker Polaris 4K Ultra Short Throw Laser TV):









We have already touched upon the phenomenal colour gamut. Which leaves us with tone mapping of HDR10 material. There are three settings, low, medium and high. Based on my viewing thus far, I prefer most material on high, as it does the best job with shadow detail(not crushing blacks). However, on certain material, I did notice some loss of those highlights; moving it down to medium rectifies this for the most part without sacrificing too much shadow detail in low light scenes. With low, there is just too much loss of that shadow detail. Comparing to the HT3550, I would say that it is very close, the HT3550 having a small edge. Going forward, a device such as the Panasonic 4K UHD player with HDR Optimizer may in fact be able to improve on HDR10 performance....(see Bomaker Polaris 4K Ultra Short Throw Laser TV)
*Dolby Vision – *No, there is no built in Dolby Vision support. However, there has been a lot of talk about the HDFury devices and how they allow HDR10 devices to display DV dynamically tone mapped content. To be honest, I was skeptical at first. However, I did obtain an Arcana device, and I am very glad I did. It is easy to configure and works smoothly with the Polaris. The Arcana has many adjustable user settings, the most critical being the maximum luminance, wherewith one can achieve optimal tone mapping for the Polaris. I just watched the latest Matrix movie in Dolby Vision using the Arcana, and the image was absolutely gorgeous- no highlight blow outs or shadow detail crush that I could readily spot. I actually spent more time admiring the image than paying attention to the movie! The other benefit to ‘adding DV’ is the ability to use all the user adjustments on the Polaris to tweak the picture. One is not locked in to DV ‘presets’.
I am very reluctant to include photos, as there is simply too much ‘contamination’ of the image as it goes from projector to camera to your screens, and thus they do not accurately show the cinematic viewing experience(wrong exposure/ altered colour temperature/much less gamut/etc). That being said, here are a few, unaltered, that seem to depict what was captured ‘relatively’ accurately (just to give you an idea)
For more Dolby Vision/Arcana output, please see: Bomaker Polaris 4K Ultra Short Throw Laser TV
















Dolby Vision (with the Arcana) HDR10


























Dolby Vision - Polaris Benq HT3550 HDR10 HDR10 - Polaris

*Discussion – *After my preliminary viewing of material with the calibrated settings, I must say that I am beyond impressed with the image of this projector. The combination of all its strengths allows it to put out an image that is truly jaw dropping. During the Matrix, virtually every scene was like looking through a window. No artifacts. No noise. Just super clean, rich images. The colour range, depth and saturation delivered with enough lumens for HDR, even on a 150” screen, make the image pop. And, of course, Planet Earth II becomes eye candy. I even got a ‘wow’ out of my wife(fellow AVSers will understand).























On the above three shots(again, unaltered from the camera), I try to show you the black level and shadow detail abilities. The first two are from Matrix DV; the third is from Planet Earth II HDR10. I tried to capture the vividness of the colour gamut from Planet Earth II on several shots and to be honest, it simply is just not possible to show those colours and saturations to you, sorry, so I have not tried to.
The only scenes that suffer a little are those where the dynamic dimming does not operate to help out with the blacks. The native contrast for DLP is not super strong, and so a good dynamic dimming system is paramount to achieve nice blacks in low light scenes. And though the dimming is not very aggressive on the Polaris, it is sufficient enough to make almost every dark scene decent. The dimming is not as aggressive as the HT3550. This plus far less lumens on the HT3550 and thus lower black level gives better dark scenes on the HT3550, but not by much. There were only about two dark scenes in the entire Matrix movie that had enough luminance such that the dimming did not operate, leaving those scenes relatively flat. The HT3550 offers three levels of dimming, which were tweaked via a firmware update and the W6000 allowed one to manually adjust the dimming in its Service Menu. As mentioned before, the dimming on the Polaris, even on high, is relatively mild. It would be SO nice if the laser dimming on the Polaris was adjustable via the Service Menu such that one can select a more aggressive setting, thus achieving even better blacks. And if not, a firmware update from Bomaker that allowed this would be EVEN NICER. I realize that you can only take dimming up to a point before you get artifacts—so far at the current high setting, I have not noticed any—and so it would be nice to know just how far we can take the dimming before we get ‘deal breaking’ artifacts. Again, I appeal to Bomaker for help with this one. It would truly represent the cherry on top.
*SUMMARY
Pros: 
-phenomenal colour gamut-virtually all of Rec2020(without the use of a filter)
-an abundance of calibrated lumens
-very sharp-full 2160p pattern resolution
-excellent grey scale tracking in SDR and HDR
-complete CMS to fine tune colourimetry
-perfect 24p handling/playback(without MEMC)
-excellent overall motion handling(no need for MEMC)
-transparent laser dimming
-very good shadow detail
-zero laser speckle
-good tone mapping(see Bomaker Polaris 4K Ultra Short Throw Laser TV)
-compatible with Arcana allowing for Dolby Vision
-virtually no RBE
-whisper quiet

Cons:
-mediocre native contrast
-automatically maps Rec709 content to Rec2020*

A lot of metrics need to come together to make for a cinematic image. The Polaris succeeds almost to perfection in this regard. There has never been a better time to be a home theatre enthusiast. For not a lot of money, one can have the Polaris, that, in the words of a fellow AVS member, is ‘spectacular’. And I fully agree.

*SETTINGS*

Below are the settings that were used to achieve the calibrated results. I am happy to share them with you, but please do remember that there may be unit to unit variation, and these represent findings on a plain white screen. I strongly encourage individual calibration to achieve the maximum potential of your projector/screen combination.

SettingSDR(*Rec 2020)*​HDR​Br44​48​Cont66​64​Sat*50--less for Rec709*​55​SH50​50​CThot​hot​WB R gain123​129​R offset130​128​G gain115​118​G offset128​128​B gain91​93​B offset128​127​CMS R T50​50​RS50​50​RB38​38​GT13​13​GS65​65​GB78​78​BT50​50​BS48​48​BB6​6​CT55​55​CS74​74​CB67​67​MT58​58​MS48​48​MB59​59​YT30​30​YS51​51​YB32​32​SK T45​45​SK S40​40​SK B55​55​GAMMAdarkColor Space0-2550-255LIGHTHigh dynamicHigh dynamic


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## Brajesh

Nice work, excellent review!


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## lattiboy

spexman said:


> *Alas, an Objective Look at the Polaris*
> First of all, I would like to thank all the AVS Forum members for their collective comments and help in the Polaris thread, with a special thank you to Ian Laurie for all his efforts and encouragement. And a simple disclosure—I have no affiliation to any electronics company—just putting this out there in attempts to help fellow enthusiasts out.
> *BACKGROUND/INTRO*
> My set-up at home is a 150”(16:9) plain white, 1.09 gain, Elite tab tensioned motorized front projection screen. It sits in my basement home theatre room, where light control is maximized—it is essentially a bat cave, void of virtually all significant ambient light. My first foray into front digital projection was a Benq W5000 and I made myself learn how to use the free HCFR calibration software and purchased a compatible sensor such that I can harness the projector’s maximum image potential. While the W5K, as it was known as, put up a razor sharp 150” 1080p image, it unfortunately had a very poor native contrast ratio(502:1), and an extremely dismal calibrated lumen output(322). On a 150” screen, that combination was a disaster, leading to a ‘dim and dingy, albeit it sharp, image’. At that time, there were few affordable projectors to choose from, and so it had to suffice. Thankfully, not too long after, I exchanged it for the W6000, a game changer, giving way better contrast(1250:1 native) AND lumens(1060). It also had a CMS which calibrated to give 91% of Rec 709. While many 1080p DLP models were to follow, for the money, none would be significantly better overall than the W6K, and so it stayed as my reference projector for about a decade.
> Well, 4K along came and with it, the itch to upgrade. About a year ago, I pulled the trigger on the Benq HT3550 and hoped that I would not be disappointed. Again, I did a thorough calibration and the results were, for the most part, quite good. The HT3550 has a motorized filter that enters the light path to increase gamut for HDR10 content. The relevant calibrated results were as follows: with the filter off, native CR=979, lumens=1,230, DCI P3 gamut=80.3%. With filter in place, native CR=1,200, lumens=644, P3 gamut=92.3%. Before I comment on the above numbers, I will tell you that for the money, the HT3550 is very hard to beat. It has a very sharp lens which puts up a very impressively detailed 4K image. It has a CMS, does native 24p flawlessly, has a dynamic iris which really helps improve black levels(though mostly unnoticeable, you do sometimes catch it flickering), and handles HDR10 tone mapping VERY well. There are virtually no noticeable artifacts with HDR10 material. Compared to my W6K, the contrast and lumens were virtually a wash. Yes, the 4K detail was nice, and an obvious upgrade. But, to my surprise, that was not the biggest factor. What really made me say ‘wow’ was the increase in colour gamut. The picture took on such a rich look—it truly made me realize just how important the colour gamut is to the overall quality of the image. The BIG fly in the ointment for the HT3550 though, particularly on a 150” screen, is the lumen hit you take when you engage the filter. You lose almost half your lumens! In spite of this, I STILL prefer to watch ALL my HDR10 content with the filter engaged to enjoy that enhanced colour, and try not to focus on the relatively ‘dimness’ of the image….
> …with that in mind, I was EAGERLY looking for a replacement projector that gives me both that increased gamut WITH lumens to spare. After all, not only does a 150” screen need lumens to pop, so does HDR by definition. When the first tri-laser projectors came along, they were way out of my price league; I only found out about the Polaris a few months ago, and at its price, I simply had to take notice. I read the entire thread, and surmised that the Polaris is promising, though there was a lot of debate/opinion on black level. Black levels can be subjective so it was hard to know exactly what the contrast would be; now that I own the projector and have calibrated it, I thought it appropriate to share the values with you, because the numbers don’t lie(and there does not seem to be any review online with calibrated numbers!). Keep in mind that black level/contrast is one aspect of the picture. Yes, it is a big aspect, I agree and so I will attempt to answer if the contrast is ‘good enough’, alongside at looking at all the other critical elements that make up for a good home theatre projector. Well, here it goes—the Polaris by numbers…and a little bit more.
> *SOME CLARIFICATIONS and TIPS
> Focus/chromatic aberration*-yes, this is a fixed focus projector, optimized for 75”(I have an optics background and have verified this). This means that there is NO way for the user to adjust the focus on the projector itself. However, at up to about 100”, the centre focus is still exceptional. It is only when you get to about 125” that one needs to correct the focus with an additional lens. The focus uniformity is really good, particularly for a short throw which requires complicated optics. The upper right corner is slightly soft(taming corner/peripheral distortions are always the hardest thing for lenses to do), but not noticeable at typical viewing distance. At 150”, the focus suffers, but can be corrected nicely by a simple lens manufactured in an ophthalmic lab placed on the projector’s exit window (see below). My unit shows no significant chromatic aberration(CA) issues, by no means more than my HT3550 did; the CA issues are never noticeable on real life viewing material.
> 
> View attachment 3228387
> View attachment 3228388
> View attachment 3228389
> 
> 
> *Ophthalmic lens on window 150” focus without lens 150” focus with lens in place
> 
> Actuator Control* – this is a selectable menu item under “Light Source” and perhaps many(like myself) were not exactly sure what it is for. Well, it turns out that it turns on the 4K pixel shifting! When it is off, the projector is showing native 1080p. When it is on, it is pixel shifting to 4K. From a Kris Deering article in Sound & Vision, “the optical actuator is a glass pane that’s mounted somewhere in the light path after the DMD and before the lens. To bring about the pixel shifting, the glass is set into oscillation by what’s described as a voice coil…” So, for those who have it off, please turn it on to enjoy 4K! I discovered this while calibrating. Here are 2 jpegs, one with Actuator off, one with it on. If you zoom up close to the letters, the ‘off’ image shows individual pixels, whereas they disappear and the letters appear smoother in the ‘on’ image.
> View attachment 3228390
> View attachment 3228391
> 
> 
> 
> *CMS* – I was excited to see a complete CMS included(as well, of course, as 2 point grey scale controls). Truly, any serious home theatre projector should have these controls. By utilizing these controls, this projector can be calibrated to near perfection, resolving any ‘tint’ or ‘push’ issues that have been discussed in this forum. Proof will follow shortly.
> *24p & Motion Handling – *using the floating chili peppers pattern from the Spears & Munsil disc, the Polaris handled them smoothly, without the need to engage the MEMC. I compared it to my HT3550 and the performance was identical. In fact, motion was always handled smoothly by the Polaris regardless of the incoming frame rate, without the need for MEMC. I personally prefer ‘native’ frame rates and dislike the soap opera effect MEMC introduces. And I commend the Polaris for achieving this.
> *Colour Space – *it appears that the Polaris ONLY uses Rec2020 as its colour space. If it receives a Rec709 signal, it automatically maps it to Rec2020, leading to ‘over blown’ colours*.* It would be nice if this could be rectified via a firmware update. That being said, the vast majority of my viewing is 4K HDR which utilizes Rec2020. As it stands, for Rec709 material, the work around is to lower the Saturation setting such that the colours appear more natural and not over blown.
> *Below Black & Above White – *can be achieved by selecting 0-255 in the Color Space setting in the Menu.
> 
> *The Actual Numbers
> Contrast/Lumens/CT/Gamma*
> 
> *Setting*CRlumensCT(avg)delta EGammaUncalibratedSports204​2339​>12,000Game244​2238​>12,000Bright402​2999​>12,000Soft550​1420​10,500​Movies254​2984​>12,000*CALIBRATED**HDR lamp 10 (native)**1038*​*2410*​6500​0.4-8.2*HDR dynamic high**2561*​*2332*​*6500*​*0.1-4.1*HDR low dynamic1640​2439​HDR lamp 51173​1851​HDR lamp 01106​1349​SDR lamp 10 (native)975​2385​6500​0.3-1.52.38​SDR dynamic high2060​2353​6700​0.5-4.72.47​
> The numbers speak for themselves—the presets really do an immense injustice to this projector-poor contrast and colour temperature and thus a poor image out of the box. It is really an ironic injustice, because after calibration, the numbers are really quite good. While the native contrast is by no means earth shattering, it falls right in line with similar .47” DLP XPR set ups. For example, it is similar to my HT3550. The dynamic high setting really boosts the contrast to a decent level, with no noticeable pumping or clipping artifacts. It is transparent. I am sure many may comment that this is below the Xiaomi/Fengmi benchmark of about 3000:1 native. It is below, but not by a massive amount. I personally have not seen any of the Xiaomi/Fengmi units, but am skeptical if this truly is a native number. If it is native, it represents a three-fold increase, which is a huge amount and a major accomplishment. However, it may be that there is a non-defeatable dynamic laser dimming process taking place, more aggressive than the High Dynamic on the Polaris. Another point of suspicion is the fact that turning on dynamic dimming on the Xiaomi/Fengmi units yields absolutely no contrast improvement (unlike the Polaris, where the dynamic dimming does). And lastly, a quote from their 2019 report reads, "During the reporting period, we released ALPD® 4.0, which has been applied in many product series. At present, we are focusing on the development of *ALPD® 5.0*. This upgrading will not only increase the *dynamic contrast* and peak luminance of laser display equipment, and reduce the luminance of dark field, but also maintain relatively high light effect and high cost-performance ratio.” Notice, their efforts are to increase the dynamic contrast in order to produce darker blacks. If currently turning the dynamic contrast on makes no difference, it appears then that truly, they have a non-defeatable dynamic dimming system in place all the time. And so, if those units are relying on dynamic contrast, then the Polaris is not so far off. Finally, the lumen count is phenomenal, though from the comments on the forum, this is no surprise.
> *Gamma and Grey Scale*
> Again, the charts tell the tale(SDR-gamma first, then gray scale).
> View attachment 3228396
> View attachment 3228397
> 
> 
> View attachment 3228398
> 
> HDR Grey Scale
> 
> No issues here—a job well done. These are excellent graphs, both in SDR and HDR, with very low delta Es, as listed on the initial chart.
> 
> *Colour Gamut *
> I don’t think there is any surprise here—the gamut is huge, encompassing virtually all of Rec 2020. This is the actual graph from the calibrated HCFR results:
> View attachment 3228399
> 
> 
> What is not shown is the luminance delta E values, which range from 1.9-6.3. These results are exceptional, and kudos to the CMS which allows one to dial x,y and luminance in as close as possible to perfection. The green primary is even higher, giving an even larger colour space, at the expense of losing a small sliver of Rec2020.
> And putting the primary x,y points into the Gamut calculator yields this result:
> View attachment 3228400
> 
> 
> To my knowledge, this is the largest colour gamut available in any display device and the cherry on top is that it calibrates to near perfection!
> *Sharpness – *as mentioned in the Focus section(and on several posts), the image is very sharp—comparable to the HT3550 which has been commended in several reputable reviews for its sharpness. Here they are in comparison—HT3550 on the left:
> View attachment 3228401
> View attachment 3228402
> 
> 
> 
> *Subjective Comments – the sum of the parts
> RBE* – I am not overly sensitive to RBE, but do notice it on occasion on my HT3550. It is virtually non-existent on the Polaris. For me, on the Polaris, it is a non-issue.
> *Speckle* – a lot has been written about laser speckle and red push from tri-laser projectors. The Polaris has NEITHER. At least not on my screen(and note, my screen is NOT an ALR type, for those wondering if you MUST pair this projector with an ALR screen, the answer is no, as long as you can control ambient light). Speckle and red push are both non-issues as well for the Polaris.
> *Motion* – as I mentioned in my introduction, motion handling is a major point for me, particularly proper handling of 24p content. Again, the Polaris delivers. A big feature for the Bluray format, when it came out, was that it offered 24p output, to match theatrical content’s frame rate for the first time in consumer electronics. It would be a shame to have to watch 24p content at 60p on a 4K projector.
> *Audible fan noise – *my meter starts at 60dB, so I had to measure right at the fan port, where it is 60dB—in comparison, my HT3550 at the fan port is 78dB! At a typical viewing distance, the Polaris is whisper quiet, it really is.
> *HDR Performance – *First of all, I can confirm that there is no banding at all on the 10 bit test pattern, as seen below:
> View attachment 3228403
> 
> 
> We have already touched upon the phenomenal colour gamut. Which leaves us with tone mapping of HDR10 material. There are three settings, low, medium and high. Based on my viewing thus far, I prefer most material on high, as it does the best job with shadow detail(not crushing blacks) and rarely does it blow out highlights. However, on certain material, I did notice some loss of those highlights; moving it down to medium rectifies this. With low, there is just too much loss of shadow detail. I can say that both medium and high do an excellent job, depending on content. Comparing to the HT3550, I would say that it is on par.
> *Dolby Vision – *No, there is no built in Dolby Vision support. However, there has been a lot of talk about the HDFury devices and how they allow HDR10 devices to display DV dynamically tone mapped content. To be honest, I was skeptical at first. However, I did obtain an Arcana device, and I am very glad I did. It is easy to configure and works smoothly with the Polaris. The Arcana has many adjustable user settings, the most critical being the maximum luminance, wherewith one can achieve optimal tone mapping for the Polaris. I just watched the latest Matrix movie in Dolby Vision using the Arcana, and the image was absolutely gorgeous. I actually spent more time admiring the image than paying attention to the movie! The other benefit to ‘adding DV’ is the ability to use all the user adjustments on the Polaris to tweak the picture. One is not locked in to DV ‘presets’.
> I am very reluctant to include photos, as there is simply too much ‘contamination’ of the image as it goes from projector to camera to your screens, and thus they do not accurately show the cinematic viewing experience(wrong exposure/ altered colour temperature/much less gamut/etc). That being said, here are a few, unaltered, that seem to depict what was captured ‘relatively’ accurately (just to give you an idea)
> View attachment 3228404
> View attachment 3228405
> 
> 
> Dolby Vision (with the Arcana) HDR10
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3228406
> View attachment 3228407
> View attachment 3228408
> 
> 
> Dolby Vision - Polaris Benq HT3550 HDR10 HDR10 - Polaris
> 
> *Discussion – *After my preliminary viewing of material with the calibrated settings, I must say that I am beyond impressed with the image of this projector. The combination of all its strengths allows it to put out an image that is truly jaw dropping. During the Matrix, virtually every scene was like looking through a window. No artifacts. No noise. Just super clean, rich images. The colour range, depth and saturation delivered with enough lumens for HDR, even on a 150” screen, make the image pop. And, of course, Planet Earth II becomes eye candy. I even got a ‘wow’ out of my wife(fellow AVSers will understand).
> View attachment 3228409
> View attachment 3228410
> View attachment 3228411
> 
> 
> On the above three shots(again, unaltered from the camera), I try to show you the black level and shadow detail abilities. The first two are from Matrix DV; the third is from Planet Earth II HDR10. I tried to capture the vividness of the colour gamut from Planet Earth II on several shots and to be honest, it simply is just not possible to show those colours and saturations to you, sorry, so I have not tried to.
> The only scenes that suffer a little are those where the dynamic dimming does not operate to help out with the blacks. The native contrast for DLP is not super strong, and so a good dynamic dimming system is paramount to achieve nice blacks in low light scenes. And though the dimming is not very aggressive on the Polaris, it is sufficient enough to make almost every dark scene decent. The dimming is not as aggressive as the HT3550. This plus far less lumens on the HT3550 and thus lower black level gives better dark scenes on the HT3550, but not by much. There were only about two dark scenes in the entire Matrix movie that had enough luminance such that the dimming did not operate, leaving those scenes relatively flat. The HT3550 offers three levels of dimming, which were tweaked via a firmware update and the W6000 allowed one to manually adjust the dimming in its Service Menu. As mentioned before, the dimming on the Polaris, even on high, is relatively mild. It would be SO nice if the laser dimming on the Polaris was adjustable via the Service Menu such that one can select a more aggressive setting, thus achieving even better blacks. And if not, a firmware update from Bomaker that allowed this would be EVEN NICER. I realize that you can only take dimming up to a point before you get artifacts—so far at the current high setting, I have not noticed any—and so it would be nice to know just how far we can take the dimming before we get ‘deal breaking’ artifacts. Again, I appeal to Bomaker for help with this one. It would truly represent the cherry on top.
> *SUMMARY
> Pros:
> -phenomenal colour gamut-virtually all of Rec2020(without the use of a filter)
> -an abundance of calibrated lumens
> -very sharp
> -excellent grey scale tracking in SDR and HDR
> -complete CMS to fine tune colourimetry
> -perfect 24p handling/playback(without MEMC)
> -excellent overall motion handling(no need for MEMC)
> -transparent laser dimming
> -very good shadow detail
> -zero laser speckle
> -excellent tone mapping
> -compatible with Arcana allowing for Dolby Vision
> -virtually no RBE
> -whisper quiet
> 
> Cons:
> -mediocre native contrast
> -automatically maps Rec709 content to Rec2020*
> 
> A lot of metrics need to come together to make for a cinematic image. The Polaris succeeds almost to perfection in this regard. There has never been a better time to be a home theatre enthusiast. For not a lot of money, one can have the Polaris, that, in the words of a fellow AVS member, is ‘spectacular’. And I fully agree.


Incredible write up! I really think the Polaris is a sleeper and I’m glad you took it seriously. This should be a site review as it’s much more detailed then most of the “official” reviews I see here.

As somebody who has owned the Polaris, the Fengmi T1, and Xaomi C2 I will say the contrast difference is real and I’ve never seen pumping or other tell tale signs of dynamic contrast that I noticed with dynamic light modes on the Polaris. If they are using it, it’s so good I don’t know it matters if it’s not native. Also, Bomaker has essentially abandoned this product, so any support or warranty service is very questionable. That was a big portion of me going with the T1.

But I think the Polaris had more accurate color, zero speckle, and was quieter. For something you can get for as low as $1600 on sale from a major retailer in the US, that’s incredible! It’s wild to me people keep buying these subpar Samsung and Hisense models for more than twice as much!

Do you happen to have your settings so we can try them out?

Here’s a photo I had to color correct; but to this day is one of the prettiest images I’ve ever seen from any display, including the T1:


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## phchrono

Hello *spexman*
Thank for your report 
If I understood correctly, it is better to be in HDR Dynamic High than in HDR low dynamic according to your comparison table
currently I am on HDR low dynamic or standard 
For the SDR also is better to be in SDR Dynamic High.
I'm going to test it all tonight
You indicate in your table "CALIBRATED". Do you have any other information on the settings at the CMS? or your global setting?
Thank you again for your review

Edit:
I just tested on HDR Dynamic High with the parameters of IanLaurie, it's not really that in terms of colors. I think the data is not the same at the CMS.


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## IanLaurie

spexman said:


> *Alas, an Objective Look at the Polaris*
> First of all, I would like to thank all the AVS Forum members for their collective comments and help in the Polaris thread, with a special thank you to Ian Laurie for all his efforts and encouragement. And a simple disclosure—I have no affiliation to any electronics company—just putting this out there in attempts to help fellow enthusiasts out.
> *BACKGROUND/INTRO*
> My set-up at home is a 150”(16:9) plain white, 1.09 gain, Elite tab tensioned motorized front projection screen. It sits in my basement home theatre room, where light control is maximized—it is essentially a bat cave, void of virtually all significant ambient light. My first foray into front digital projection was a Benq W5000 and I made myself learn how to use the free HCFR calibration software and purchased a compatible sensor such that I can harness the projector’s maximum image potential. While the W5K, as it was known as, put up a razor sharp 150” 1080p image, it unfortunately had a very poor native contrast ratio(502:1), and an extremely dismal calibrated lumen output(322). On a 150” screen, that combination was a disaster, leading to a ‘dim and dingy, albeit it sharp, image’. At that time, there were few affordable projectors to choose from, and so it had to suffice. Thankfully, not too long after, I exchanged it for the W6000, a game changer, giving way better contrast(1250:1 native) AND lumens(1060). It also had a CMS which calibrated to give 91% of Rec 709. While many 1080p DLP models were to follow, for the money, none would be significantly better overall than the W6K, and so it stayed as my reference projector for about a decade.
> Well, 4K along came and with it, the itch to upgrade. About a year ago, I pulled the trigger on the Benq HT3550 and hoped that I would not be disappointed. Again, I did a thorough calibration and the results were, for the most part, quite good. The HT3550 has a motorized filter that enters the light path to increase gamut for HDR10 content. The relevant calibrated results were as follows: with the filter off, native CR=979, lumens=1,230, DCI P3 gamut=80.3%. With filter in place, native CR=1,200, lumens=644, P3 gamut=92.3%. Before I comment on the above numbers, I will tell you that for the money, the HT3550 is very hard to beat. It has a very sharp lens which puts up a very impressively detailed 4K image. It has a CMS, does native 24p flawlessly, has a dynamic iris which really helps improve black levels(though mostly unnoticeable, you do sometimes catch it flickering), and handles HDR10 tone mapping VERY well. There are virtually no noticeable artifacts with HDR10 material. Compared to my W6K, the contrast and lumens were virtually a wash. Yes, the 4K detail was nice, and an obvious upgrade. But, to my surprise, that was not the biggest factor. What really made me say ‘wow’ was the increase in colour gamut. The picture took on such a rich look—it truly made me realize just how important the colour gamut is to the overall quality of the image. The BIG fly in the ointment for the HT3550 though, particularly on a 150” screen, is the lumen hit you take when you engage the filter. You lose almost half your lumens! In spite of this, I STILL prefer to watch ALL my HDR10 content with the filter engaged to enjoy that enhanced colour, and try not to focus on the relatively ‘dimness’ of the image….
> …with that in mind, I was EAGERLY looking for a replacement projector that gives me both that increased gamut WITH lumens to spare. After all, not only does a 150” screen need lumens to pop, so does HDR by definition. When the first tri-laser projectors came along, they were way out of my price league; I only found out about the Polaris a few months ago, and at its price, I simply had to take notice. I read the entire thread, and surmised that the Polaris is promising, though there was a lot of debate/opinion on black level. Black levels can be subjective so it was hard to know exactly what the contrast would be; now that I own the projector and have calibrated it, I thought it appropriate to share the values with you, because the numbers don’t lie(and there does not seem to be any review online with calibrated numbers!). Keep in mind that black level/contrast is one aspect of the picture. Yes, it is a big aspect, I agree and so I will attempt to answer if the contrast is ‘good enough’, alongside at looking at all the other critical elements that make up for a good home theatre projector. Well, here it goes—the Polaris by numbers…and a little bit more.
> *SOME CLARIFICATIONS and TIPS
> Focus/chromatic aberration*-yes, this is a fixed focus projector, optimized for 75”(I have an optics background and have verified this). This means that there is NO way for the user to adjust the focus on the projector itself. However, at up to about 100”, the centre focus is still exceptional. It is only when you get to about 125” that one needs to correct the focus with an additional lens. The focus uniformity is really good, particularly for a short throw which requires complicated optics. The upper right corner is slightly soft(taming corner/peripheral distortions are always the hardest thing for lenses to do), but not noticeable at typical viewing distance. At 150”, the focus suffers, but can be corrected nicely by a simple lens manufactured in an ophthalmic lab placed on the projector’s exit window (see below). My unit shows no significant chromatic aberration(CA) issues, by no means more than my HT3550 did; the CA issues are never noticeable on real life viewing material.
> 
> View attachment 3228387
> View attachment 3228388
> View attachment 3228389
> 
> 
> *Ophthalmic lens on window 150” focus without lens 150” focus with lens in place
> 
> Actuator Control* – this is a selectable menu item under “Light Source” and perhaps many(like myself) were not exactly sure what it is for. Well, it turns out that it turns on the 4K pixel shifting! When it is off, the projector is showing native 1080p. When it is on, it is pixel shifting to 4K. From a Kris Deering article in Sound & Vision, “the optical actuator is a glass pane that’s mounted somewhere in the light path after the DMD and before the lens. To bring about the pixel shifting, the glass is set into oscillation by what’s described as a voice coil…” So, for those who have it off, please turn it on to enjoy 4K! I discovered this while calibrating. Here are 2 jpegs, one with Actuator off, one with it on. If you zoom up close to the letters, the ‘off’ image shows individual pixels, whereas they disappear and the letters appear smoother in the ‘on’ image.
> View attachment 3228390
> View attachment 3228391
> 
> 
> 
> *CMS* – I was excited to see a complete CMS included(as well, of course, as 2 point grey scale controls). Truly, any serious home theatre projector should have these controls. By utilizing these controls, this projector can be calibrated to near perfection, resolving any ‘tint’ or ‘push’ issues that have been discussed in this forum. Proof will follow shortly.
> *24p & Motion Handling – *using the floating chili peppers pattern from the Spears & Munsil disc, the Polaris handled them smoothly, without the need to engage the MEMC. I compared it to my HT3550 and the performance was identical. In fact, motion was always handled smoothly by the Polaris regardless of the incoming frame rate, without the need for MEMC. I personally prefer ‘native’ frame rates and dislike the soap opera effect MEMC introduces. And I commend the Polaris for achieving this.
> *Colour Space – *it appears that the Polaris ONLY uses Rec2020 as its colour space. If it receives a Rec709 signal, it automatically maps it to Rec2020, leading to ‘over blown’ colours*.* It would be nice if this could be rectified via a firmware update. That being said, the vast majority of my viewing is 4K HDR which utilizes Rec2020. As it stands, for Rec709 material, the work around is to lower the Saturation setting such that the colours appear more natural and not over blown.
> *Below Black & Above White – *can be achieved by selecting 0-255 in the Color Space setting in the Menu.
> 
> *The Actual Numbers
> Contrast/Lumens/CT/Gamma*
> 
> *Setting*CRlumensCT(avg)delta EGammaUncalibratedSports204​2339​>12,000Game244​2238​>12,000Bright402​2999​>12,000Soft550​1420​10,500​Movies254​2984​>12,000*CALIBRATED**HDR lamp 10 (native)**1038*​*2410*​6500​0.4-8.2*HDR dynamic high**2561*​*2332*​*6500*​*0.1-4.1*HDR low dynamic1640​2439​HDR lamp 51173​1851​HDR lamp 01106​1349​SDR lamp 10 (native)975​2385​6500​0.3-1.52.38​SDR dynamic high2060​2353​6700​0.5-4.72.47​
> The numbers speak for themselves—the presets really do an immense injustice to this projector-poor contrast and colour temperature and thus a poor image out of the box. It is really an ironic injustice, because after calibration, the numbers are really quite good. While the native contrast is by no means earth shattering, it falls right in line with similar .47” DLP XPR set ups. For example, it is similar to my HT3550. The dynamic high setting really boosts the contrast to a decent level, with no noticeable pumping or clipping artifacts. It is transparent. I am sure many may comment that this is below the Xiaomi/Fengmi benchmark of about 3000:1 native. It is below, but not by a massive amount. I personally have not seen any of the Xiaomi/Fengmi units, but am skeptical if this truly is a native number. If it is native, it represents a three-fold increase, which is a huge amount and a major accomplishment. However, it may be that there is a non-defeatable dynamic laser dimming process taking place, more aggressive than the High Dynamic on the Polaris. Another point of suspicion is the fact that turning on dynamic dimming on the Xiaomi/Fengmi units yields absolutely no contrast improvement (unlike the Polaris, where the dynamic dimming does). And lastly, a quote from their 2019 report reads, "During the reporting period, we released ALPD® 4.0, which has been applied in many product series. At present, we are focusing on the development of *ALPD® 5.0*. This upgrading will not only increase the *dynamic contrast* and peak luminance of laser display equipment, and reduce the luminance of dark field, but also maintain relatively high light effect and high cost-performance ratio.” Notice, their efforts are to increase the dynamic contrast in order to produce darker blacks. If currently turning the dynamic contrast on makes no difference, it appears then that truly, they have a non-defeatable dynamic dimming system in place all the time. And so, if those units are relying on dynamic contrast, then the Polaris is not so far off. Finally, the lumen count is phenomenal, though from the comments on the forum, this is no surprise.
> *Gamma and Grey Scale*
> Again, the charts tell the tale(SDR-gamma first, then gray scale).
> View attachment 3228396
> View attachment 3228397
> 
> 
> View attachment 3228398
> 
> HDR Grey Scale
> 
> No issues here—a job well done. These are excellent graphs, both in SDR and HDR, with very low delta Es, as listed on the initial chart.
> 
> *Colour Gamut *
> I don’t think there is any surprise here—the gamut is huge, encompassing virtually all of Rec 2020. This is the actual graph from the calibrated HCFR results:
> View attachment 3228399
> 
> 
> What is not shown is the luminance delta E values, which range from 1.9-6.3. These results are exceptional, and kudos to the CMS which allows one to dial x,y and luminance in as close as possible to perfection. The green primary is even higher, giving an even larger colour space, at the expense of losing a small sliver of Rec2020.
> And putting the primary x,y points into the Gamut calculator yields this result:
> View attachment 3228400
> 
> 
> To my knowledge, this is the largest colour gamut available in any display device and the cherry on top is that it calibrates to near perfection!
> *Sharpness – *as mentioned in the Focus section(and on several posts), the image is very sharp—comparable to the HT3550 which has been commended in several reputable reviews for its sharpness. Here they are in comparison—HT3550 on the left:
> View attachment 3228401
> View attachment 3228402
> 
> 
> 
> *Subjective Comments – the sum of the parts
> RBE* – I am not overly sensitive to RBE, but do notice it on occasion on my HT3550. It is virtually non-existent on the Polaris. For me, on the Polaris, it is a non-issue.
> *Speckle* – a lot has been written about laser speckle and red push from tri-laser projectors. The Polaris has NEITHER. At least not on my screen(and note, my screen is NOT an ALR type, for those wondering if you MUST pair this projector with an ALR screen, the answer is no, as long as you can control ambient light). Speckle and red push are both non-issues as well for the Polaris.
> *Motion* – as I mentioned in my introduction, motion handling is a major point for me, particularly proper handling of 24p content. Again, the Polaris delivers. A big feature for the Bluray format, when it came out, was that it offered 24p output, to match theatrical content’s frame rate for the first time in consumer electronics. It would be a shame to have to watch 24p content at 60p on a 4K projector.
> *Audible fan noise – *my meter starts at 60dB, so I had to measure right at the fan port, where it is 60dB—in comparison, my HT3550 at the fan port is 78dB! At a typical viewing distance, the Polaris is whisper quiet, it really is.
> *HDR Performance – *First of all, I can confirm that there is no banding at all on the 10 bit test pattern, as seen below:
> View attachment 3228403
> 
> 
> We have already touched upon the phenomenal colour gamut. Which leaves us with tone mapping of HDR10 material. There are three settings, low, medium and high. Based on my viewing thus far, I prefer most material on high, as it does the best job with shadow detail(not crushing blacks) and rarely does it blow out highlights. However, on certain material, I did notice some loss of those highlights; moving it down to medium rectifies this. With low, there is just too much loss of shadow detail. I can say that both medium and high do an excellent job, depending on content. Comparing to the HT3550, I would say that it is on par.
> *Dolby Vision – *No, there is no built in Dolby Vision support. However, there has been a lot of talk about the HDFury devices and how they allow HDR10 devices to display DV dynamically tone mapped content. To be honest, I was skeptical at first. However, I did obtain an Arcana device, and I am very glad I did. It is easy to configure and works smoothly with the Polaris. The Arcana has many adjustable user settings, the most critical being the maximum luminance, wherewith one can achieve optimal tone mapping for the Polaris. I just watched the latest Matrix movie in Dolby Vision using the Arcana, and the image was absolutely gorgeous. I actually spent more time admiring the image than paying attention to the movie! The other benefit to ‘adding DV’ is the ability to use all the user adjustments on the Polaris to tweak the picture. One is not locked in to DV ‘presets’.
> I am very reluctant to include photos, as there is simply too much ‘contamination’ of the image as it goes from projector to camera to your screens, and thus they do not accurately show the cinematic viewing experience(wrong exposure/ altered colour temperature/much less gamut/etc). That being said, here are a few, unaltered, that seem to depict what was captured ‘relatively’ accurately (just to give you an idea)
> View attachment 3228404
> View attachment 3228405
> 
> 
> Dolby Vision (with the Arcana) HDR10
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3228406
> View attachment 3228407
> View attachment 3228408
> 
> 
> Dolby Vision - Polaris Benq HT3550 HDR10 HDR10 - Polaris
> 
> *Discussion – *After my preliminary viewing of material with the calibrated settings, I must say that I am beyond impressed with the image of this projector. The combination of all its strengths allows it to put out an image that is truly jaw dropping. During the Matrix, virtually every scene was like looking through a window. No artifacts. No noise. Just super clean, rich images. The colour range, depth and saturation delivered with enough lumens for HDR, even on a 150” screen, make the image pop. And, of course, Planet Earth II becomes eye candy. I even got a ‘wow’ out of my wife(fellow AVSers will understand).
> View attachment 3228409
> View attachment 3228410
> View attachment 3228411
> 
> 
> On the above three shots(again, unaltered from the camera), I try to show you the black level and shadow detail abilities. The first two are from Matrix DV; the third is from Planet Earth II HDR10. I tried to capture the vividness of the colour gamut from Planet Earth II on several shots and to be honest, it simply is just not possible to show those colours and saturations to you, sorry, so I have not tried to.
> The only scenes that suffer a little are those where the dynamic dimming does not operate to help out with the blacks. The native contrast for DLP is not super strong, and so a good dynamic dimming system is paramount to achieve nice blacks in low light scenes. And though the dimming is not very aggressive on the Polaris, it is sufficient enough to make almost every dark scene decent. The dimming is not as aggressive as the HT3550. This plus far less lumens on the HT3550 and thus lower black level gives better dark scenes on the HT3550, but not by much. There were only about two dark scenes in the entire Matrix movie that had enough luminance such that the dimming did not operate, leaving those scenes relatively flat. The HT3550 offers three levels of dimming, which were tweaked via a firmware update and the W6000 allowed one to manually adjust the dimming in its Service Menu. As mentioned before, the dimming on the Polaris, even on high, is relatively mild. It would be SO nice if the laser dimming on the Polaris was adjustable via the Service Menu such that one can select a more aggressive setting, thus achieving even better blacks. And if not, a firmware update from Bomaker that allowed this would be EVEN NICER. I realize that you can only take dimming up to a point before you get artifacts—so far at the current high setting, I have not noticed any—and so it would be nice to know just how far we can take the dimming before we get ‘deal breaking’ artifacts. Again, I appeal to Bomaker for help with this one. It would truly represent the cherry on top.
> *SUMMARY
> Pros:
> -phenomenal colour gamut-virtually all of Rec2020(without the use of a filter)
> -an abundance of calibrated lumens
> -very sharp
> -excellent grey scale tracking in SDR and HDR
> -complete CMS to fine tune colourimetry
> -perfect 24p handling/playback(without MEMC)
> -excellent overall motion handling(no need for MEMC)
> -transparent laser dimming
> -very good shadow detail
> -zero laser speckle
> -excellent tone mapping
> -compatible with Arcana allowing for Dolby Vision
> -virtually no RBE
> -whisper quiet
> 
> Cons:
> -mediocre native contrast
> -automatically maps Rec709 content to Rec2020*
> 
> A lot of metrics need to come together to make for a cinematic image. The Polaris succeeds almost to perfection in this regard. There has never been a better time to be a home theatre enthusiast. For not a lot of money, one can have the Polaris, that, in the words of a fellow AVS member, is ‘spectacular’. And I fully agree.


This was an excellent write up, and great information from someone with the actual tools to do a proper calibration. Look forward to seeing the settings hopefully!


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## spexman

Thank you for your kind words, guys. I have edited my post to include my settings--I apologize for not including them in the first place...may they be helpful to you.


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## JackB

Spexman or other users,

Does the projector come with the actuator on or off? If it comes with it off I may have sent mine back with never having seen 4K.


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## phchrono

Thank *spexman *for your settings. 

I will test it right away


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## IanLaurie

JackB said:


> Spexman or other users,
> 
> Does the projector come with the actuator on or off? If it comes with it off I may have sent mine back with never having seen 4K.


Mine came with it…. Off I believe. Not certain on that though, I only recently turned it on once I was finally able to find some tech specs on the TI chips that explained what it was.


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## phchrono

So with *spexman *parameters, the whites are grey/yellow. It could be my CLR screen.
I readjusted to find a good white. It doesn't look bad but may not be suitable for my screen 
I'll test you tonight on the Matrix


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## spexman

phchrono said:


> Hello *spexman*
> Thank for your report
> If I understood correctly, it is better to be in HDR Dynamic High than in HDR low dynamic according to your comparison table
> currently I am on HDR low dynamic or standard
> For the SDR also is better to be in SDR Dynamic High.
> I'm going to test it all tonight
> You indicate in your table "CALIBRATED". Do you have any other information on the settings at the CMS? or your global setting?
> Thank you again for your review
> 
> Edit:
> I just tested on HDR Dynamic High with the parameters of IanLaurie, it's not really that in terms of colors. I think the data is not the same at the CMS.





phchrono said:


> Hello *spexman*
> Thank for your report
> If I understood correctly, it is better to be in HDR Dynamic High than in HDR low dynamic according to your comparison table
> currently I am on HDR low dynamic or standard
> For the SDR also is better to be in SDR Dynamic High.
> I'm going to test it all tonight
> You indicate in your table "CALIBRATED". Do you have any other information on the settings at the CMS? or your global setting?
> Thank you again for your review
> 
> Edit:
> I just tested on HDR Dynamic High with the parameters of IanLaurie, it's not really that in terms of colors. I think the data is not the same at the CMS.


High dynamic gives the best contrast as it applies the most aggressive dynamic laser dimming in dark scenes. This would apply to both SDR and HDR viewing. In all my viewing so far, it is transparent, meaning, I do not notice any pumping artifacts or blow out of highlights.


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## spexman

IanLaurie said:


> Mine came with it…. Off I believe. Not certain on that though, I only recently turned it on once I was finally able to find some tech specs on the TI chips that explained what it was.


I too believe that mine came with it off.


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## spexman

phchrono said:


> So with *spexman *parameters, the whites are grey/yellow. It could be my CLR screen.
> I readjusted to find a good white. It doesn't look bad but may not be suitable for my screen
> I'll test you tonight on the Matrix


My results are based on using a white screen, 1.09 gain. Depending on your screen type and of course, projector variance from mine, yes, you may need to tweak my settings.


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## spexman

lattiboy said:


> Incredible write up! I really think the Polaris is a sleeper and I’m glad you took it seriously. This should be a site review as it’s much more detailed then most of the “official” reviews I see here.
> 
> As somebody who has owned the Polaris, the Fengmi T1, and Xaomi C2 I will say the contrast difference is real and I’ve never seen pumping or other tell tale signs of dynamic contrast that I noticed with dynamic light modes on the Polaris. If they are using it, it’s so good I don’t know it matters if it’s not native. Also, Bomaker has essentially abandoned this product, so any support or warranty service is very questionable. That was a big portion of me going with the T1.
> 
> But I think the Polaris had more accurate color, zero speckle, and was quieter. For something you can get for as low as $1600 on sale from a major retailer in the US, that’s incredible! It’s wild to me people keep buying these subpar Samsung and Hisense models for more than twice as much!
> 
> Do you happen to have your settings so we can try them out?
> 
> Here’s a photo I had to color correct; but to this day is one of the prettiest images I’ve ever seen from any display, including the T1:
> 
> 
> View attachment 3228422


Thank you for all your commentary on the comparison between all the various projectors that you have seen up close and personal. It is very helpful.


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## lattiboy

I happen to still have my Polaris sitting around in my office. I may have time tonight to do a quick comparison with these new settings against the Fengmi T1. I’m honestly interested to see if it can get close. Especially interested as your contrast numbers are on a plain white screen and I have a .6 CLR screen.


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## JackB

spexman said:


> Thank you for your kind words, guys. I have edited my post to include my settings--I apologize for not including them in the first place...may they be helpful to you.


I did not see these settings, the CMS and gamma. Although it is said that these are not transferable, they are very helpful as a starting point.


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## spexman

lattiboy said:


> I happen to still have my Polaris sitting around in my office. I may have time tonight to do a quick comparison with these new settings against the Fengmi T1. I’m honestly interested to see if it can get close. Especially interested as your contrast numbers are on a plain white screen and I have a .6 CLR screen.


I too would be interested in what you find. Thanks for doing that.


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## IanLaurie

lattiboy said:


> I happen to still have my Polaris sitting around in my office. I may have time tonight to do a quick comparison with these new settings against the Fengmi T1. I’m honestly interested to see if it can get close. Especially interested as your contrast numbers are on a plain white screen and I have a .6 CLR screen.


I’m working with a .6 as well. I’ll give it a run tonight and see.


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## spexman

IanLaurie said:


> I’m working with a .6 as well. I’ll give it a run tonight and see.


Fabulous, thanks.


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## Ricoflashback

Spexman - fabulous write-up on the Bomaker Polaris. Really in depth and well done. I think if any of these projector manufacturers are recruiting high level employees, all they have to do is look at posts like this to get a great pipeline of candidates, if they are interested. 

A word about Dolby Vision - for those who stream exclusively or the majority of the time - any HD Fury workaround isn’t a solution for us. I see that the Bomaker website is still up but the projector is not available on Amazon. Is this PJ still being manufactured? Any support?

Lastly and this may sound like a weird question but any viewing impairment or noticeable differences between watching a regular throw projector versus a UST? I only bring this up as one poster in another thread said he wouldn’t like the angle of the light from a UST versus a regular throw PJ. I’ve never viewed a UST projector and suspect that it wouldn’t make that much difference as you would focus on the screen and not the beam of light.


----------



## vadom

spexman said:


> *Alas, an Objective Look at the Polaris*
> First of all, I would like to thank all the AVS Forum members for their collective comments and help in the Polaris thread, with a special thank you to Ian Laurie for all his efforts and encouragement. And a simple disclosure—I have no affiliation to any electronics company—just putting this out there in attempts to help fellow enthusiasts out.
> *BACKGROUND/INTRO*
> My set-up at home is a 150”(16:9) plain white, 1.09 gain, Elite tab tensioned motorized front projection screen. It sits in my basement home theatre room, where light control is maximized—it is essentially a bat cave, void of virtually all significant ambient light. My first foray into front digital projection was a Benq W5000 and I made myself learn how to use the free HCFR calibration software and purchased a compatible sensor such that I can harness the projector’s maximum image potential. While the W5K, as it was known as, put up a razor sharp 150” 1080p image, it unfortunately had a very poor native contrast ratio(502:1), and an extremely dismal calibrated lumen output(322). On a 150” screen, that combination was a disaster, leading to a ‘dim and dingy, albeit it sharp, image’. At that time, there were few affordable projectors to choose from, and so it had to suffice. Thankfully, not too long after, I exchanged it for the W6000, a game changer, giving way better contrast(1250:1 native) AND lumens(1060). It also had a CMS which calibrated to give 91% of Rec 709. While many 1080p DLP models were to follow, for the money, none would be significantly better overall than the W6K, and so it stayed as my reference projector for about a decade.
> Well, 4K along came and with it, the itch to upgrade. About a year ago, I pulled the trigger on the Benq HT3550 and hoped that I would not be disappointed. Again, I did a thorough calibration and the results were, for the most part, quite good. The HT3550 has a motorized filter that enters the light path to increase gamut for HDR10 content. The relevant calibrated results were as follows: with the filter off, native CR=979, lumens=1,230, DCI P3 gamut=80.3%. With filter in place, native CR=1,200, lumens=644, P3 gamut=92.3%. Before I comment on the above numbers, I will tell you that for the money, the HT3550 is very hard to beat. It has a very sharp lens which puts up a very impressively detailed 4K image. It has a CMS, does native 24p flawlessly, has a dynamic iris which really helps improve black levels(though mostly unnoticeable, you do sometimes catch it flickering), and handles HDR10 tone mapping VERY well. There are virtually no noticeable artifacts with HDR10 material. Compared to my W6K, the contrast and lumens were virtually a wash. Yes, the 4K detail was nice, and an obvious upgrade. But, to my surprise, that was not the biggest factor. What really made me say ‘wow’ was the increase in colour gamut. The picture took on such a rich look—it truly made me realize just how important the colour gamut is to the overall quality of the image. The BIG fly in the ointment for the HT3550 though, particularly on a 150” screen, is the lumen hit you take when you engage the filter. You lose almost half your lumens! In spite of this, I STILL prefer to watch ALL my HDR10 content with the filter engaged to enjoy that enhanced colour, and try not to focus on the relatively ‘dimness’ of the image….
> …with that in mind, I was EAGERLY looking for a replacement projector that gives me both that increased gamut WITH lumens to spare. After all, not only does a 150” screen need lumens to pop, so does HDR by definition. When the first tri-laser projectors came along, they were way out of my price league; I only found out about the Polaris a few months ago, and at its price, I simply had to take notice. I read the entire thread, and surmised that the Polaris is promising, though there was a lot of debate/opinion on black level. Black levels can be subjective so it was hard to know exactly what the contrast would be; now that I own the projector and have calibrated it, I thought it appropriate to share the values with you, because the numbers don’t lie(and there does not seem to be any review online with calibrated numbers!). Keep in mind that black level/contrast is one aspect of the picture. Yes, it is a big aspect, I agree and so I will attempt to answer if the contrast is ‘good enough’, alongside at looking at all the other critical elements that make up for a good home theatre projector. Well, here it goes—the Polaris by numbers…and a little bit more.
> *SOME CLARIFICATIONS and TIPS
> Focus/chromatic aberration*-yes, this is a fixed focus projector, optimized for 75”(I have an optics background and have verified this). This means that there is NO way for the user to adjust the focus on the projector itself. However, at up to about 100”, the centre focus is still exceptional. It is only when you get to about 125” that one needs to correct the focus with an additional lens. The focus uniformity is really good, particularly for a short throw which requires complicated optics. The upper right corner is slightly soft(taming corner/peripheral distortions are always the hardest thing for lenses to do), but not noticeable at typical viewing distance. At 150”, the focus suffers, but can be corrected nicely by a simple lens manufactured in an ophthalmic lab placed on the projector’s exit window (see below). My unit shows no significant chromatic aberration(CA) issues, by no means more than my HT3550 did; the CA issues are never noticeable on real life viewing material.
> 
> View attachment 3228387
> View attachment 3228388
> View attachment 3228389
> 
> 
> *Ophthalmic lens on window 150” focus without lens 150” focus with lens in place
> 
> Actuator Control* – this is a selectable menu item under “Light Source” and perhaps many(like myself) were not exactly sure what it is for. Well, it turns out that it turns on the 4K pixel shifting! When it is off, the projector is showing native 1080p. When it is on, it is pixel shifting to 4K. From a Kris Deering article in Sound & Vision, “the optical actuator is a glass pane that’s mounted somewhere in the light path after the DMD and before the lens. To bring about the pixel shifting, the glass is set into oscillation by what’s described as a voice coil…” So, for those who have it off, please turn it on to enjoy 4K! I discovered this while calibrating. Here are 2 jpegs, one with Actuator off, one with it on. If you zoom up close to the letters, the ‘off’ image shows individual pixels, whereas they disappear and the letters appear smoother in the ‘on’ image.
> View attachment 3228390
> View attachment 3228391
> 
> 
> 
> *CMS* – I was excited to see a complete CMS included(as well, of course, as 2 point grey scale controls). Truly, any serious home theatre projector should have these controls. By utilizing these controls, this projector can be calibrated to near perfection, resolving any ‘tint’ or ‘push’ issues that have been discussed in this forum. Proof will follow shortly.
> *24p & Motion Handling – *using the floating chili peppers pattern from the Spears & Munsil disc, the Polaris handled them smoothly, without the need to engage the MEMC. I compared it to my HT3550 and the performance was identical. In fact, motion was always handled smoothly by the Polaris regardless of the incoming frame rate, without the need for MEMC. I personally prefer ‘native’ frame rates and dislike the soap opera effect MEMC introduces. And I commend the Polaris for achieving this.
> *Colour Space – *it appears that the Polaris ONLY uses Rec2020 as its colour space. If it receives a Rec709 signal, it automatically maps it to Rec2020, leading to ‘over blown’ colours*.* It would be nice if this could be rectified via a firmware update. That being said, the vast majority of my viewing is 4K HDR which utilizes Rec2020. As it stands, for Rec709 material, the work around is to lower the Saturation setting such that the colours appear more natural and not over blown.
> *Below Black & Above White – *can be achieved by selecting 0-255 in the Color Space setting in the Menu.
> 
> *The Actual Numbers
> Contrast/Lumens/CT/Gamma*
> 
> *Setting*CRlumensCT(avg)delta EGammaUncalibratedSports204​2339​>12,000Game244​2238​>12,000Bright402​2999​>12,000Soft550​1420​10,500​Movies254​2984​>12,000*CALIBRATED**HDR lamp 10 (native)**1038*​*2410*​6500​0.4-8.2*HDR dynamic high**2561*​*2332*​*6500*​*0.1-4.1*HDR low dynamic1640​2439​HDR lamp 51173​1851​HDR lamp 01106​1349​SDR lamp 10 (native)975​2385​6500​0.3-1.52.38​SDR dynamic high2060​2353​6700​0.5-4.72.47​
> The numbers speak for themselves—the presets really do an immense injustice to this projector-poor contrast and colour temperature and thus a poor image out of the box. It is really an ironic injustice, because after calibration, the numbers are really quite good. While the native contrast is by no means earth shattering, it falls right in line with similar .47” DLP XPR set ups. For example, it is similar to my HT3550. The dynamic high setting really boosts the contrast to a decent level, with no noticeable pumping or clipping artifacts. It is transparent. I am sure many may comment that this is below the Xiaomi/Fengmi benchmark of about 3000:1 native. It is below, but not by a massive amount. I personally have not seen any of the Xiaomi/Fengmi units, but am skeptical if this truly is a native number. If it is native, it represents a three-fold increase, which is a huge amount and a major accomplishment. However, it may be that there is a non-defeatable dynamic laser dimming process taking place, more aggressive than the High Dynamic on the Polaris. Another point of suspicion is the fact that turning on dynamic dimming on the Xiaomi/Fengmi units yields absolutely no contrast improvement (unlike the Polaris, where the dynamic dimming does). And lastly, a quote from their 2019 report reads, "During the reporting period, we released ALPD® 4.0, which has been applied in many product series. At present, we are focusing on the development of *ALPD® 5.0*. This upgrading will not only increase the *dynamic contrast* and peak luminance of laser display equipment, and reduce the luminance of dark field, but also maintain relatively high light effect and high cost-performance ratio.” Notice, their efforts are to increase the dynamic contrast in order to produce darker blacks. If currently turning the dynamic contrast on makes no difference, it appears then that truly, they have a non-defeatable dynamic dimming system in place all the time. And so, if those units are relying on dynamic contrast, then the Polaris is not so far off. Finally, the lumen count is phenomenal, though from the comments on the forum, this is no surprise.
> *Gamma and Grey Scale*
> Again, the charts tell the tale(SDR-gamma first, then gray scale).
> View attachment 3228396
> View attachment 3228397
> 
> 
> View attachment 3228398
> 
> HDR Grey Scale
> 
> No issues here—a job well done. These are excellent graphs, both in SDR and HDR, with very low delta Es, as listed on the initial chart.
> 
> *Colour Gamut *
> I don’t think there is any surprise here—the gamut is huge, encompassing virtually all of Rec 2020. This is the actual graph from the calibrated HCFR results:
> View attachment 3228399
> 
> 
> What is not shown is the luminance delta E values, which range from 1.9-6.3. These results are exceptional, and kudos to the CMS which allows one to dial x,y and luminance in as close as possible to perfection. The green primary is even higher, giving an even larger colour space, at the expense of losing a small sliver of Rec2020.
> And putting the primary x,y points into the Gamut calculator yields this result:
> View attachment 3228400
> 
> 
> To my knowledge, this is the largest colour gamut available in any display device and the cherry on top is that it calibrates to near perfection!
> *Sharpness – *as mentioned in the Focus section(and on several posts), the image is very sharp—comparable to the HT3550 which has been commended in several reputable reviews for its sharpness. Here they are in comparison—HT3550 on the left:
> View attachment 3228401
> View attachment 3228402
> 
> 
> 
> *Subjective Comments – the sum of the parts
> RBE* – I am not overly sensitive to RBE, but do notice it on occasion on my HT3550. It is virtually non-existent on the Polaris. For me, on the Polaris, it is a non-issue.
> *Speckle* – a lot has been written about laser speckle and red push from tri-laser projectors. The Polaris has NEITHER. At least not on my screen(and note, my screen is NOT an ALR type, for those wondering if you MUST pair this projector with an ALR screen, the answer is no, as long as you can control ambient light). Speckle and red push are both non-issues as well for the Polaris.
> *Motion* – as I mentioned in my introduction, motion handling is a major point for me, particularly proper handling of 24p content. Again, the Polaris delivers. A big feature for the Bluray format, when it came out, was that it offered 24p output, to match theatrical content’s frame rate for the first time in consumer electronics. It would be a shame to have to watch 24p content at 60p on a 4K projector.
> *Audible fan noise – *my meter starts at 60dB, so I had to measure right at the fan port, where it is 60dB—in comparison, my HT3550 at the fan port is 78dB! At a typical viewing distance, the Polaris is whisper quiet, it really is.
> *HDR Performance – *First of all, I can confirm that there is no banding at all on the 10 bit test pattern, as seen below:
> View attachment 3228403
> 
> 
> We have already touched upon the phenomenal colour gamut. Which leaves us with tone mapping of HDR10 material. There are three settings, low, medium and high. Based on my viewing thus far, I prefer most material on high, as it does the best job with shadow detail(not crushing blacks) and rarely does it blow out highlights. However, on certain material, I did notice some loss of those highlights; moving it down to medium rectifies this. With low, there is just too much loss of shadow detail. I can say that both medium and high do an excellent job, depending on content. Comparing to the HT3550, I would say that it is on par.
> *Dolby Vision – *No, there is no built in Dolby Vision support. However, there has been a lot of talk about the HDFury devices and how they allow HDR10 devices to display DV dynamically tone mapped content. To be honest, I was skeptical at first. However, I did obtain an Arcana device, and I am very glad I did. It is easy to configure and works smoothly with the Polaris. The Arcana has many adjustable user settings, the most critical being the maximum luminance, wherewith one can achieve optimal tone mapping for the Polaris. I just watched the latest Matrix movie in Dolby Vision using the Arcana, and the image was absolutely gorgeous. I actually spent more time admiring the image than paying attention to the movie! The other benefit to ‘adding DV’ is the ability to use all the user adjustments on the Polaris to tweak the picture. One is not locked in to DV ‘presets’.
> I am very reluctant to include photos, as there is simply too much ‘contamination’ of the image as it goes from projector to camera to your screens, and thus they do not accurately show the cinematic viewing experience(wrong exposure/ altered colour temperature/much less gamut/etc). That being said, here are a few, unaltered, that seem to depict what was captured ‘relatively’ accurately (just to give you an idea)
> View attachment 3228404
> View attachment 3228405
> 
> 
> Dolby Vision (with the Arcana) HDR10
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3228406
> View attachment 3228407
> View attachment 3228408
> 
> 
> Dolby Vision - Polaris Benq HT3550 HDR10 HDR10 - Polaris
> 
> *Discussion – *After my preliminary viewing of material with the calibrated settings, I must say that I am beyond impressed with the image of this projector. The combination of all its strengths allows it to put out an image that is truly jaw dropping. During the Matrix, virtually every scene was like looking through a window. No artifacts. No noise. Just super clean, rich images. The colour range, depth and saturation delivered with enough lumens for HDR, even on a 150” screen, make the image pop. And, of course, Planet Earth II becomes eye candy. I even got a ‘wow’ out of my wife(fellow AVSers will understand).
> View attachment 3228409
> View attachment 3228410
> View attachment 3228411
> 
> 
> On the above three shots(again, unaltered from the camera), I try to show you the black level and shadow detail abilities. The first two are from Matrix DV; the third is from Planet Earth II HDR10. I tried to capture the vividness of the colour gamut from Planet Earth II on several shots and to be honest, it simply is just not possible to show those colours and saturations to you, sorry, so I have not tried to.
> The only scenes that suffer a little are those where the dynamic dimming does not operate to help out with the blacks. The native contrast for DLP is not super strong, and so a good dynamic dimming system is paramount to achieve nice blacks in low light scenes. And though the dimming is not very aggressive on the Polaris, it is sufficient enough to make almost every dark scene decent. The dimming is not as aggressive as the HT3550. This plus far less lumens on the HT3550 and thus lower black level gives better dark scenes on the HT3550, but not by much. There were only about two dark scenes in the entire Matrix movie that had enough luminance such that the dimming did not operate, leaving those scenes relatively flat. The HT3550 offers three levels of dimming, which were tweaked via a firmware update and the W6000 allowed one to manually adjust the dimming in its Service Menu. As mentioned before, the dimming on the Polaris, even on high, is relatively mild. It would be SO nice if the laser dimming on the Polaris was adjustable via the Service Menu such that one can select a more aggressive setting, thus achieving even better blacks. And if not, a firmware update from Bomaker that allowed this would be EVEN NICER. I realize that you can only take dimming up to a point before you get artifacts—so far at the current high setting, I have not noticed any—and so it would be nice to know just how far we can take the dimming before we get ‘deal breaking’ artifacts. Again, I appeal to Bomaker for help with this one. It would truly represent the cherry on top.
> *SUMMARY
> Pros:
> -phenomenal colour gamut-virtually all of Rec2020(without the use of a filter)
> -an abundance of calibrated lumens
> -very sharp
> -excellent grey scale tracking in SDR and HDR
> -complete CMS to fine tune colourimetry
> -perfect 24p handling/playback(without MEMC)
> -excellent overall motion handling(no need for MEMC)
> -transparent laser dimming
> -very good shadow detail
> -zero laser speckle
> -excellent tone mapping
> -compatible with Arcana allowing for Dolby Vision
> -virtually no RBE
> -whisper quiet
> 
> Cons:
> -mediocre native contrast
> -automatically maps Rec709 content to Rec2020*
> 
> A lot of metrics need to come together to make for a cinematic image. The Polaris succeeds almost to perfection in this regard. There has never been a better time to be a home theatre enthusiast. For not a lot of money, one can have the Polaris, that, in the words of a fellow AVS member, is ‘spectacular’. And I fully agree.
> 
> *SETTINGS*
> 
> Below are the settings that were used to achieve the calibrated results. I am happy to share them with you, but please do remember that there may be unit to unit variation. I strongly recommend individual calibration to achieve the maximum potential of your projector.
> 
> SettingSDRHDRBr44​48​Cont66​64​Sat50​55​SH50​50​CThothotWB R gain123​129​R offset130​128​G gain115​118​G offset128​128​B gain91​93​B offset128​127​CMS R T50​50​RS50​50​RB38​38​GT13​13​GS65​65​GB78​78​BT50​50​BS48​48​BB6​6​CT55​55​CS74​74​CB67​67​MT58​58​MS48​48​MB59​59​YT30​30​YS51​51​YB32​32​SK T45​45​SK S40​40​SK B55​55​GAMMAdarkColor Space0-2550-255LIGHTHigh dynamicHigh dynamic


Thanks @spexman , I'll try your settings as well. I wanted to ask you regarding the "this is a fixed focus projector, optimized for 75”, were you able to get a proper fully focused image at 75"? In my case only the bottom part of the image will be focused.


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## spexman

Ricoflashback said:


> Spexman - fabulous write-up on the Bomaker Polaris. Really in depth and well done. I think if any of these projector manufacturers are recruiting high level employees, all they have to do is look at posts like this to get a great pipeline of candidates, if they are interested.
> 
> A word about Dolby Vision - for those who stream exclusively or the majority of the time - any HD Fury workaround isn’t a solution for us. I see that the Bomaker website is still up but the projector is not available on Amazon. Is this PJ still being manufactured? Any support?
> 
> Lastly and this may sound like a weird question but any viewing impairment or noticeable differences between watching a regular throw projector versus a UST? I only bring this up as one poster in another thread said he wouldn’t like the angle of the light from a UST versus a regular throw PJ. I’ve never viewed a UST projector and suspect that it wouldn’t make that much difference as you would focus on the screen and not the beam of light.


Thank you Ricoflashback for your feedback...I am hopeful that Bomaker will support us going forward. As for UST vs regular throw, admittedly, I too was nervous about it--my main fear was potential hotspotting and poor screen uniformity--fortunately, at least on my screen, neither reared their ugly head. They are non-issues....however, as mentioned in the forum, any screen imperfection(and I do have a few, unfortunately as it is getting up there in age) seems to be accentuated much more than regular throw, which optically makes sense.


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## spexman

vadom said:


> Thanks @spexman , I'll try your settings as well. I wanted to ask you regarding the "this is a fixed focus projector, optimized for 75”, were you able to get a proper fully focused image at 75"? In my case only the bottom part of the image will be focused.


Vadom, thanks...sorry it was not clear in the article, when I mention 75", 100", 125" and 150", I mean the diagonal size of a 16:9 screen---NOT the distance from projector to screen. Hope the settings help you out.


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## vadom

spexman said:


> Vadom, thanks...sorry it was not clear in the article, when I mention 75", 100", 125" and 150", I mean the diagonal size of a 16:9 screen---NOT the distance from projector to screen. Hope the settings help you out.


Hi spexman, we are on the same pace. When I adjust the distance from the wall to project a 75" (diagonal 16:9) image, it is not properly focused.


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## spexman

vadom said:


> Hi spexman, we are on the same pace. When I adjust the distance from the wall to project a 75" (diagonal 16:9) image, it is not properly focused.


can you try it at 100"?


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## IanLaurie

I am on 100” currently, and do t have any focus issues. From my understanding it was advertised as 85” up to 200” (which we all know is not likely without a lens change) so 75” might be just a bit small


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## IanLaurie

So at first look on my .6 gain alr screen, it does appear to be a little yellow instead of white. This may be a matter of my eyes being comfortable with the previous settings, or it might be something to do with the gain. I am gonna give it some time and see if it still feels off to me. I’ll watch something tonight, and let you all know how I feel about it. Some things seem much improved, others, not quite right. Again im gonna give it a few days so I can test a large range of material. The one thing im most interested is to see how it handles hockey. I know the colors extremely well and the vibrancy of them can over saturate easily. It also has an awful lot of white to look at that can get blown out, or look dirty.


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## IanLaurie

Oh but I will say the whites even if appearing a little yellow to my eye, do seem to have much more depth to them, which is definitely a positive. Overall it’s a very different correction to mine, but I’m well aware how this can be a matter of adjustment to changes. I recommend doing the same and giving these settings a try for some time. I expect them to be better overall, once my eyes adjust.


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## spexman

IanLaurie said:


> Oh but I will say the whites even if appearing a little yellow to my eye, do seem to have much more depth to them, which is definitely a positive. Overall it’s a very different correction to mine, but I’m well aware how this can be a matter of adjustment to changes. I recommend doing the same and giving these settings a try for some time. I expect them to be better overall, once my eyes adjust.


Thank you for the observations Ian; I always calibrate to D65 and perhaps I am used to that being 'white'. I know that many perceive D65 white as yellowish/ivory. A good thread about this is:Temperature perception and how it affects "pure...
That could be an explanation(as you mention, you need to get used to it as your eyes/brain set a new white reference), or it could be your screen having a slight cast, or, inter projector variance. Interesting about hockey; I enjoy it too, and watching the Leafs play in Long Island last night, the ice did look a little yellow/dingy, until I looked at the shoulder area of the Leafs jersey, which looked pure white....my conclusion, the Long Island ice IS a little yellow and dingy compared to the bright/clean white of the Leafs jersey....


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## IanLaurie

spexman said:


> Thank you for the observations Ian; I always calibrate to D65 and perhaps I am used to that being 'white'. I know that many perceive D65 white as yellowish/ivory. A good thread about this is:Temperature perception and how it affects "pure...
> That could be an explanation(as you mention, you need to get used to it as your eyes/brain set a new white reference), or it could be your screen having a slight cast, or, inter projector variance. Interesting about hockey; I enjoy it too, and watching the Leafs play in Long Island last night, the ice did look a little yellow/dingy, until I looked at the shoulder area of the Leafs jersey, which looked pure white....my conclusion, the Long Island ice IS a little yellow and dingy compared to the bright/clean white of the Leafs jersey....


Yeah I have noticed there are a few arenas with “yellow” ice. Ive noticed those are the ones flooding their rinks with reclaimed water.


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## IanLaurie

spexman said:


> Thank you for the observations Ian; I always calibrate to D65 and perhaps I am used to that being 'white'. I know that many perceive D65 white as yellowish/ivory. A good thread about this is:Temperature perception and how it affects "pure...
> That could be an explanation(as you mention, you need to get used to it as your eyes/brain set a new white reference), or it could be your screen having a slight cast, or, inter projector variance. Interesting about hockey; I enjoy it too, and watching the Leafs play in Long Island last night, the ice did look a little yellow/dingy, until I looked at the shoulder area of the Leafs jersey, which looked pure white....my conclusion, the Long Island ice IS a little yellow and dingy compared to the bright/clean white of the Leafs jersey....


I also meant to say that I am a fan of d65. I use it as my target lighting for film all the time.


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## spexman

IanLaurie said:


> Yeah I have noticed there are a few arenas with “yellow” ice. Ive noticed those are the ones flooding their rinks with reclaimed water.


wow, did not know that about using reclaimed water!


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## Ricoflashback

IanLaurie said:


> Yeah I have noticed there are a few arenas with “yellow” ice. Ive noticed those are the ones flooding their rinks with reclaimed water.


Hockey rinks can vary around the NHL. Some look pristine white, others can have striations of black and white while a couple rinks can have wild logos showing through. What drives me nuts is during stoppages in the game when they start flashing lights on the ice. For a second, I start wondering if there is something wrong with my projector.

Which brings me to an interesting question. With a UST PJ, it’s recommended to go with an ALR screen. Since I’ve only viewed a 1.1 gain, white matte screen with a regular throw projector - will the whites appear as not as white? Does it make sense to invest in a more expensive screen like a Screen Innovations Zero Edge Pro at .6 gain or a Grandview Dynamique at a .4 gain? Will a gain of .2 make that much difference? I’m wondering if the juice is worth the squeeze when paying more for a screen with a UST projector. I think you can get away with more cost effective screen options with a standard, regular throw projector compared to a UST PJ due to the extreme angle. I’m not positive on that but would appreciate any feedback from UST owners.


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## lattiboy

Ricoflashback said:


> Hockey rinks can vary around the NHL. Some look pristine white, others can have striations of black and white while a couple rinks can have wild logos showing through. What drives me nuts is during stoppages in the game when they start flashing lights on the ice. For a second, I start wondering if there is something wrong with my projector.
> 
> Which brings me to an interesting question. With a UST PJ, it’s recommended to go with an ALR screen. Since I’ve only viewed a 1.1 gain, white matte screen with a regular throw projector - will the whites appear as not as white? Does it make sense to invest in a more expensive screen like a Screen Innovations Zero Edge Pro at .6 gain or a Grandview Dynamique at a .4 gain? Will a gain of .2 make that much difference? I’m wondering if the juice is worth the squeeze when paying more for a screen with a UST projector. I think you can get away with more cost effective screen options with a standard, regular throw projector compared to a UST PJ due to the extreme angle. I’m not positive on that but would appreciate any feedback from UST owners.


I would highly recommend getting a CLR screen, but a number of people have had perfectly good images with a matte white screen as long as you have good light control.

A key thing to remember is that these ultra short throw projector’s were originally sold by Hisense as “TV replacements”, not as home theater devices. You had no choice but to buy one with a Screen included; something they stuck to until their latest model. Because of their unique throw angle, you can use CLR screens which allow for incredible ambient light rejection, much more effective than standard ALR screens allow.

As far as gain, the general rule I am aware of is .4 for 100 inch screen and .6 for 120 inch screen or larger. I have a .6 120” and I think it’s perfect for my needs. 

Here’s my “demo shot” for why you should get a CLR screen:


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## Ricoflashback

lattiboy said:


> I would highly recommend getting a CLR screen, but a number of people have had perfectly good images with a matte white screen as long as you have good light control.
> 
> A key thing to remember is that these ultra short throw projector’s were originally sold by Hisense as “TV replacements”, not as home theater devices. You had no choice but to buy one with a Screen included; something they stuck to until their latest model. Because of their unique throw angle, you can use CLR screens which allow for incredible ambient light rejection, much more effective than standard ALR screens allow.
> 
> As far as gain, the general rule I am aware of is .4 for 100 inch screen and .6 for 120 inch screen or larger. I have a .6 120” and I think it’s perfect for my needs.
> 
> Here’s my “demo shot” for why you should get a CLR screen:
> 
> View attachment 3228732


Much thanks. Is that a Aeon CLR screen or is CLR a generic term? What exact make or model do you have? Benefits over an ALR screen? I’m not going to watch with many lights on (if at all) and will control as much ambient light in the living room as I can. (Shutters - distant kitchen light on at the max.) Is that a 16 x 9 screen?


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## lattiboy

spexman said:


> I too would be interested in what you find. Thanks for doing that.


I set up the Polaris and I’m going to put my thoughts down after an hour of watching various things. Unfortunately there will be not be any pictures as the Polaris is practically impossible to photograph well because of the intense pink cast in photos and my largest issue with it is low brightness scenes, where an iPhone simply can’t convey particularly well.

I remain very impressed with the Polaris! There is some hard to describe quality to the picture that is quite special. It is more reserved than the T1, which can sometimes almost assault you with color. Additionally, the calibrated CMS does really make a difference. I used most of your settings, but I used standard instead of hot for color temperature, which looked more neutral to my eye.

All that being said, the black level and contrast is just not something I can go back to. It is almost impossible to show the differences with an iPhone camera, but it has been described as “DLP gas” in other threads. It’s a veiled gray that is especially problematic in darker scenes and anything with black bars. Whatever magic Xaomi has done eliminated this and it makes an enormous difference in perceived contrast and cinematic immersion.

Additionally, setting the brightness to anything below 50 really crushes shadows in HDR. It is hard to overstate how much better the tonemapping is on the T1. Not just Dolby Vision, but standard HDR10 also. Do yourself a favor and find a piece of HDR media with a lot of shadow detail. Now simply adjust the brightness on the Polaris from 50 down to 46. It is a huge, huge difference and although it adds a lot more contrast, you lose practically all shadow detail. Additionally, there is a huge amount of blooming in some bright scenes, especially out of focus areas. There are some really pronounced instances of this in Blue Earth II Episode 3. I used both HDR medium and HDR high, but could not get it to look right.

I sincerely appreciate what you did with your write up and I think your settings are good. I would say this is the best non-Xaomi/Fengmi projector I’ve used or seen, including the HU810p and the Hisense L9. For the price the Polaris dips down to, I think they are quite incredible and a helluva valuezz

The Chinese USTs are simply in another strata when it comes to black level, tonemapping, and shadow detail performance. Also, the speaker system on the T1 is absurdly good. Like, better than most $300-400 sound bars good. I had forgotten how horrible the speaker on the Polaris is


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## IanLaurie

Okay…. 
so with these settings I finally sat down to watch a few things. But right away something was off for me as bright orange became a deep red. At that’s not just me, but my son (9) actually asked me why our team had red jerseys on. Having said that, many many aspects of the colour are much improved. So now I have a hybrid of my settings, and spexman’s settings. I feel like I am really getting better results. I also felt like everything white was yellow and this may be due to screen material. So here are my Frankenstein settings for those of you who would like to try them.

SDR
Brightness 52
Contrast 55
Saturation 43
Gamma dark
Color temp hot
White balance 
R gain 128
R offset 128
G gain 110
G offset 128
B gain 101
B offset 128
Colour adjustment
Red tone 45
Red sat 54
Red bright 43
all others refer to spexman’s settings
Hdr
Bright 48
Contrast 55
Sat 42
White balance same as sdr except
B gain 105
Color adjustments same as sdr for red, use spexman’s adjustments for the rest.

huge thank you to spexman for his settings. Although Ive altered them I never would have got it to where it is without them. I’m not sure why the difference in settings, perhaps .6 alr vs 1.1 white screen. Maybe a little variation between models. But I am exceptionally happy with where I have ended up.


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## vadom

spexman said:


> can you try it at 100"?


It is focused at 100" but not bellow, this is why I'm interested to find out why you mentioned that it is calibrated for 75". Also, if you could send a picture of the center of the test pattern (it is a cross) I would really appreciate it. I want to check if we have the same amount of color fringing.


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## lattiboy

I got one photo that pretty well shows the difference between the T1 and the Polaris. Keep in mind, the T1 is about $600-800 more expensive then the Polaris on sale, so this isn’t meant to be some kind of shade thrown at the Polaris! It’s an exceptional value and has the widest most accurate colors available on…. Anything!

PS colors are much closer in real life, didn’t take time to adjust either photo outside of black level and the T1 was in the wrong color mode. 

Polaris:









Fengmi T1:


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## IanLaurie

I tried to take some pictures but the heavy pink cast is back in the photos. I don’t really care as I am now assuming that is infrared light that the camera sensor is picking up, but I can not. For a rough approximation I tweaked a photo to show you. Keep in mind this ONLY applied to this particular color. Yellows On flames jerseys may have been slightly more orange than yellow, but hardly even noticible. So for what ever reason this orange pushed the limit.
What I was seeing








What the colour should be like









like I said, this is not a screen shot, only an approximation, and again it was only the oranges and yellows that were shifted into red and orange respectively and far more pronounced on the orange to red shift. Interestingly, the score banner had the orange perfectly fine if a little over saturated, and still looked great with the change, so it really did seem to only effect this specific colour in any significant way.


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## IanLaurie

lattiboy said:


> I got one photo that pretty well shows the difference between the T1 and the Polaris. Keep in mind, the T1 is about $600-800 more expensive then the Polaris on sale, so this isn’t meant to be some kind of shade thrown at the Polaris! It’s an exceptional value and has the widest most accurate colors available on…. Anything!
> 
> PS colors are much closer in real life, didn’t take time to adjust either photo outside of black level and the T1 was in the wrong color mode.
> 
> Polaris:
> View attachment 3228901
> 
> 
> Fengmi T1:
> View attachment 3228902


Those blacks do look very good. And it never hurts to have options either. Thanks for sharing


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## JackB

The difference in color presentation between a .6 gray CLR screen and a 1.1 matte white screen could be huge I would think.


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## JackB

lattiboy said:


> I got one photo that pretty well shows the difference between the T1 and the Polaris. Keep in mind, the T1 is about $600-800 more expensive then the Polaris on sale, so this isn’t meant to be some kind of shade thrown at the Polaris! It’s an exceptional value and has the widest most accurate colors available on…. Anything!
> 
> PS colors are much closer in real life, didn’t take time to adjust either photo outside of black level and the T1 was in the wrong color mode.
> 
> Polaris:
> View attachment 3228901
> 
> 
> Fengmi T1:
> View attachment 3228902


Although I know you can't really trust photo shots like the above two, my eyes say the Polaris photo is much better. The T1 looks very flat in comparison; to my eyes that is.


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## spexman

lattiboy said:


> I set up the Polaris and I’m going to put my thoughts down after an hour of watching various things. Unfortunately there will be not be any pictures as the Polaris is practically impossible to photograph well because of the intense pink cast in photos and my largest issue with it is low brightness scenes, where an iPhone simply can’t convey particularly well.
> 
> I remain very impressed with the Polaris! There is some hard to describe quality to the picture that is quite special. It is more reserved than the T1, which can sometimes almost assault you with color. Additionally, the calibrated CMS does really make a difference. I used most of your settings, but I used standard instead of hot for color temperature, which looked more neutral to my eye.
> 
> All that being said, the black level and contrast is just not something I can go back to. It is almost impossible to show the differences with an iPhone camera, but it has been described as “DLP gas” in other threads. It’s a veiled gray that is especially problematic in darker scenes and anything with black bars. Whatever magic Xaomi has done eliminated this and it makes an enormous difference in perceived contrast and cinematic immersion.
> 
> Additionally, setting the brightness to anything below 50 really crushes shadows in HDR. It is hard to overstate how much better the tonemapping is on the T1. Not just Dolby Vision, but standard HDR10 also. Do yourself a favor and find a piece of HDR media with a lot of shadow detail. Now simply adjust the brightness on the Polaris from 50 down to 46. It is a huge, huge difference and although it adds a lot more contrast, you lose practically all shadow detail. Additionally, there is a huge amount of blooming in some bright scenes, especially out of focus areas. There are some really pronounced instances of this in Blue Earth II Episode 3. I used both HDR medium and HDR high, but could not get it to look right.
> 
> I sincerely appreciate what you did with your write up and I think your settings are good. I would say this is the best non-Xaomi/Fengmi projector I’ve used or seen, including the HU810p and the Hisense L9. For the price the Polaris dips down to, I think they are quite incredible and a helluva valuezz
> 
> The Chinese USTs are simply in another strata when it comes to black level, tonemapping, and shadow detail performance. Also, the speaker system on the T1 is absurdly good. Like, better than most $300-400 sound bars good. I had forgotten how horrible the speaker on the Polaris is


Much appreciate your time to do this for us....I hear you on the importance of a better black level, and thus have encouraged Bomaker to address this, IF possible, with more aggressive dynamic dimming. The shot you posted just after this comparing the two really shows that. I understand about the loss of shadow detail if tone-mapping is not done right--from your observations, the T1 has superior tone mapping and I am not at all surprised--if it is Dolby Vision certified, it only makes sense that it meets Dolby's stringent requirements. I have not done a ton of viewing yet, but I suspect to achieve better tone mapping on HDR10 material, I need to get my hands on a Panny player with the HDR Optimizer....Again, thank you for your efforts.


----------



## spexman

IanLaurie said:


> Okay….
> so with these settings I finally sat down to watch a few things. But right away something was off for me as bright orange became a deep red. At that’s not just me, but my son (9) actually asked me why our team had red jerseys on. Having said that, many many aspects of the colour are much improved. So now I have a hybrid of my settings, and spexman’s settings. I feel like I am really getting better results. I also felt like everything white was yellow and this may be due to screen material. So here are my Frankenstein settings for those of you who would like to try them.
> 
> SDR
> Brightness 52
> Contrast 55
> Saturation 43
> Gamma dark
> Color temp hot
> White balance
> R gain 128
> R offset 128
> G gain 110
> G offset 128
> B gain 101
> B offset 128
> Colour adjustment
> Red tone 45
> Red sat 54
> Red bright 43
> all others refer to spexman’s settings
> Hdr
> Bright 48
> Contrast 55
> Sat 42
> White balance same as sdr except
> B gain 105
> Color adjustments same as sdr for red, use spexman’s adjustments for the rest.
> 
> huge thank you to spexman for his settings. Although Ive altered them I never would have got it to where it is without them. I’m not sure why the difference in settings, perhaps .6 alr vs 1.1 white screen. Maybe a little variation between models. But I am exceptionally happy with where I have ended up.


Ian thanks...out of curiosity, was the Oilers game you watched in Rec709 or Rec2020?


----------



## spexman

vadom said:


> It is focused at 100" but not bellow, this is why I'm interested to find out why you mentioned that it is calibrated for 75". Also, if you could send a picture of the center of the test pattern (it is a cross) I would really appreciate it. I want to check if we have the same amount of color fringing.


When I get home tonight, I will do that for you my friend, and will try to also send you a shot of a 75" image.


----------



## ConnorsDad

spexman said:


> *Alas, an Objective Look at the Polaris*
> First of all, I would like to thank all the AVS Forum members for their collective comments and help in the Polaris thread, with a special thank you to Ian Laurie for all his efforts and encouragement. And a simple disclosure—I have no affiliation to any electronics company—just putting this out there in attempts to help fellow enthusiasts out.
> *BACKGROUND/INTRO*
> My set-up at home is a 150”(16:9) plain white, 1.09 gain, Elite tab tensioned motorized front projection screen. It sits in my basement home theatre room, where light control is maximized—it is essentially a bat cave, void of virtually all significant ambient light. My first foray into front digital projection was a Benq W5000 and I made myself learn how to use the free HCFR calibration software and purchased a compatible sensor such that I can harness the projector’s maximum image potential. While the W5K, as it was known as, put up a razor sharp 150” 1080p image, it unfortunately had a very poor native contrast ratio(502:1), and an extremely dismal calibrated lumen output(322). On a 150” screen, that combination was a disaster, leading to a ‘dim and dingy, albeit it sharp, image’. At that time, there were few affordable projectors to choose from, and so it had to suffice. Thankfully, not too long after, I exchanged it for the W6000, a game changer, giving way better contrast(1250:1 native) AND lumens(1060). It also had a CMS which calibrated to give 91% of Rec 709. While many 1080p DLP models were to follow, for the money, none would be significantly better overall than the W6K, and so it stayed as my reference projector for about a decade.
> Well, 4K along came and with it, the itch to upgrade. About a year ago, I pulled the trigger on the Benq HT3550 and hoped that I would not be disappointed. Again, I did a thorough calibration and the results were, for the most part, quite good. The HT3550 has a motorized filter that enters the light path to increase gamut for HDR10 content. The relevant calibrated results were as follows: with the filter off, native CR=979, lumens=1,230, DCI P3 gamut=80.3%. With filter in place, native CR=1,200, lumens=644, P3 gamut=92.3%. Before I comment on the above numbers, I will tell you that for the money, the HT3550 is very hard to beat. It has a very sharp lens which puts up a very impressively detailed 4K image. It has a CMS, does native 24p flawlessly, has a dynamic iris which really helps improve black levels(though mostly unnoticeable, you do sometimes catch it flickering), and handles HDR10 tone mapping VERY well. There are virtually no noticeable artifacts with HDR10 material. Compared to my W6K, the contrast and lumens were virtually a wash. Yes, the 4K detail was nice, and an obvious upgrade. But, to my surprise, that was not the biggest factor. What really made me say ‘wow’ was the increase in colour gamut. The picture took on such a rich look—it truly made me realize just how important the colour gamut is to the overall quality of the image. The BIG fly in the ointment for the HT3550 though, particularly on a 150” screen, is the lumen hit you take when you engage the filter. You lose almost half your lumens! In spite of this, I STILL prefer to watch ALL my HDR10 content with the filter engaged to enjoy that enhanced colour, and try not to focus on the relatively ‘dimness’ of the image….
> …with that in mind, I was EAGERLY looking for a replacement projector that gives me both that increased gamut WITH lumens to spare. After all, not only does a 150” screen need lumens to pop, so does HDR by definition. When the first tri-laser projectors came along, they were way out of my price league; I only found out about the Polaris a few months ago, and at its price, I simply had to take notice. I read the entire thread, and surmised that the Polaris is promising, though there was a lot of debate/opinion on black level. Black levels can be subjective so it was hard to know exactly what the contrast would be; now that I own the projector and have calibrated it, I thought it appropriate to share the values with you, because the numbers don’t lie(and there does not seem to be any review online with calibrated numbers!). Keep in mind that black level/contrast is one aspect of the picture. Yes, it is a big aspect, I agree and so I will attempt to answer if the contrast is ‘good enough’, alongside at looking at all the other critical elements that make up for a good home theatre projector. Well, here it goes—the Polaris by numbers…and a little bit more.
> *SOME CLARIFICATIONS and TIPS
> Focus/chromatic aberration*-yes, this is a fixed focus projector, optimized for 75”(I have an optics background and have verified this). This means that there is NO way for the user to adjust the focus on the projector itself. However, at up to about 100”, the centre focus is still exceptional. It is only when you get to about 125” that one needs to correct the focus with an additional lens. The focus uniformity is really good, particularly for a short throw which requires complicated optics. The upper right corner is slightly soft(taming corner/peripheral distortions are always the hardest thing for lenses to do), but not noticeable at typical viewing distance. At 150”, the focus suffers, but can be corrected nicely by a simple lens manufactured in an ophthalmic lab placed on the projector’s exit window (see below). My unit shows no significant chromatic aberration(CA) issues, by no means more than my HT3550 did; the CA issues are never noticeable on real life viewing material.
> 
> View attachment 3228387
> View attachment 3228388
> View attachment 3228389
> 
> 
> *Ophthalmic lens on window 150” focus without lens 150” focus with lens in place
> 
> Actuator Control* – this is a selectable menu item under “Light Source” and perhaps many(like myself) were not exactly sure what it is for. Well, it turns out that it turns on the 4K pixel shifting! When it is off, the projector is showing native 1080p. When it is on, it is pixel shifting to 4K. From a Kris Deering article in Sound & Vision, “the optical actuator is a glass pane that’s mounted somewhere in the light path after the DMD and before the lens. To bring about the pixel shifting, the glass is set into oscillation by what’s described as a voice coil…” So, for those who have it off, please turn it on to enjoy 4K! I discovered this while calibrating. Here are 2 jpegs, one with Actuator off, one with it on. If you zoom up close to the letters, the ‘off’ image shows individual pixels, whereas they disappear and the letters appear smoother in the ‘on’ image.
> View attachment 3228390
> View attachment 3228391
> 
> 
> 
> *CMS* – I was excited to see a complete CMS included(as well, of course, as 2 point grey scale controls). Truly, any serious home theatre projector should have these controls. By utilizing these controls, this projector can be calibrated to near perfection, resolving any ‘tint’ or ‘push’ issues that have been discussed in this forum. Proof will follow shortly.
> *24p & Motion Handling – *using the floating chili peppers pattern from the Spears & Munsil disc, the Polaris handled them smoothly, without the need to engage the MEMC. I compared it to my HT3550 and the performance was identical. In fact, motion was always handled smoothly by the Polaris regardless of the incoming frame rate, without the need for MEMC. I personally prefer ‘native’ frame rates and dislike the soap opera effect MEMC introduces. And I commend the Polaris for achieving this.
> *Colour Space – *it appears that the Polaris ONLY uses Rec2020 as its colour space. If it receives a Rec709 signal, it automatically maps it to Rec2020, leading to ‘over blown’ colours*.* It would be nice if this could be rectified via a firmware update. That being said, the vast majority of my viewing is 4K HDR which utilizes Rec2020. As it stands, for Rec709 material, the work around is to lower the Saturation setting such that the colours appear more natural and not over blown.
> *Below Black & Above White – *can be achieved by selecting 0-255 in the Color Space setting in the Menu.
> 
> *The Actual Numbers
> Contrast/Lumens/CT/Gamma*
> 
> *Setting*CRlumensCT(avg)delta EGammaUncalibratedSports204​2339​>12,000Game244​2238​>12,000Bright402​2999​>12,000Soft550​1420​10,500​Movies254​2984​>12,000*CALIBRATED**HDR lamp 10 (native)**1038*​*2410*​6500​0.4-8.2*HDR dynamic high**2561*​*2332*​*6500*​*0.1-4.1*HDR low dynamic1640​2439​HDR lamp 51173​1851​HDR lamp 01106​1349​SDR lamp 10 (native)975​2385​6500​0.3-1.52.38​SDR dynamic high2060​2353​6700​0.5-4.72.47​
> The numbers speak for themselves—the presets really do an immense injustice to this projector-poor contrast and colour temperature and thus a poor image out of the box. It is really an ironic injustice, because after calibration, the numbers are really quite good. While the native contrast is by no means earth shattering, it falls right in line with similar .47” DLP XPR set ups. For example, it is similar to my HT3550. The dynamic high setting really boosts the contrast to a decent level, with no noticeable pumping or clipping artifacts. It is transparent. I am sure many may comment that this is below the Xiaomi/Fengmi benchmark of about 3000:1 native. It is below, but not by a massive amount. I personally have not seen any of the Xiaomi/Fengmi units, but am skeptical if this truly is a native number. If it is native, it represents a three-fold increase, which is a huge amount and a major accomplishment. However, it may be that there is a non-defeatable dynamic laser dimming process taking place, more aggressive than the High Dynamic on the Polaris. Another point of suspicion is the fact that turning on dynamic dimming on the Xiaomi/Fengmi units yields absolutely no contrast improvement (unlike the Polaris, where the dynamic dimming does). And lastly, a quote from their 2019 report reads, "During the reporting period, we released ALPD® 4.0, which has been applied in many product series. At present, we are focusing on the development of *ALPD® 5.0*. This upgrading will not only increase the *dynamic contrast* and peak luminance of laser display equipment, and reduce the luminance of dark field, but also maintain relatively high light effect and high cost-performance ratio.” Notice, their efforts are to increase the dynamic contrast in order to produce darker blacks. If currently turning the dynamic contrast on makes no difference, it appears then that truly, they have a non-defeatable dynamic dimming system in place all the time. And so, if those units are relying on dynamic contrast, then the Polaris is not so far off. Finally, the lumen count is phenomenal, though from the comments on the forum, this is no surprise.
> *Gamma and Grey Scale*
> Again, the charts tell the tale(SDR-gamma first, then gray scale).
> View attachment 3228396
> View attachment 3228397
> 
> 
> View attachment 3228398
> 
> HDR Grey Scale
> 
> No issues here—a job well done. These are excellent graphs, both in SDR and HDR, with very low delta Es, as listed on the initial chart.
> 
> *Colour Gamut *
> I don’t think there is any surprise here—the gamut is huge, encompassing virtually all of Rec 2020. This is the actual graph from the calibrated HCFR results:
> View attachment 3228399
> 
> 
> What is not shown is the luminance delta E values, which range from 1.9-6.3. These results are exceptional, and kudos to the CMS which allows one to dial x,y and luminance in as close as possible to perfection. The green primary is even higher, giving an even larger colour space, at the expense of losing a small sliver of Rec2020.
> And putting the primary x,y points into the Gamut calculator yields this result:
> View attachment 3228400
> 
> 
> To my knowledge, this is the largest colour gamut available in any display device and the cherry on top is that it calibrates to near perfection!
> *Sharpness – *as mentioned in the Focus section(and on several posts), the image is very sharp—comparable to the HT3550 which has been commended in several reputable reviews for its sharpness. Here they are in comparison—HT3550 on the left:
> View attachment 3228401
> View attachment 3228402
> 
> 
> 
> *Subjective Comments – the sum of the parts
> RBE* – I am not overly sensitive to RBE, but do notice it on occasion on my HT3550. It is virtually non-existent on the Polaris. For me, on the Polaris, it is a non-issue.
> *Speckle* – a lot has been written about laser speckle and red push from tri-laser projectors. The Polaris has NEITHER. At least not on my screen(and note, my screen is NOT an ALR type, for those wondering if you MUST pair this projector with an ALR screen, the answer is no, as long as you can control ambient light). Speckle and red push are both non-issues as well for the Polaris.
> *Motion* – as I mentioned in my introduction, motion handling is a major point for me, particularly proper handling of 24p content. Again, the Polaris delivers. A big feature for the Bluray format, when it came out, was that it offered 24p output, to match theatrical content’s frame rate for the first time in consumer electronics. It would be a shame to have to watch 24p content at 60p on a 4K projector.
> *Audible fan noise – *my meter starts at 60dB, so I had to measure right at the fan port, where it is 60dB—in comparison, my HT3550 at the fan port is 78dB! At a typical viewing distance, the Polaris is whisper quiet, it really is.
> *HDR Performance – *First of all, I can confirm that there is no banding at all on the 10 bit test pattern, as seen below:
> View attachment 3228403
> 
> 
> We have already touched upon the phenomenal colour gamut. Which leaves us with tone mapping of HDR10 material. There are three settings, low, medium and high. Based on my viewing thus far, I prefer most material on high, as it does the best job with shadow detail(not crushing blacks) and rarely does it blow out highlights. However, on certain material, I did notice some loss of those highlights; moving it down to medium rectifies this. With low, there is just too much loss of shadow detail. I can say that both medium and high do an excellent job, depending on content. Comparing to the HT3550, I would say that it is on par.
> *Dolby Vision – *No, there is no built in Dolby Vision support. However, there has been a lot of talk about the HDFury devices and how they allow HDR10 devices to display DV dynamically tone mapped content. To be honest, I was skeptical at first. However, I did obtain an Arcana device, and I am very glad I did. It is easy to configure and works smoothly with the Polaris. The Arcana has many adjustable user settings, the most critical being the maximum luminance, wherewith one can achieve optimal tone mapping for the Polaris. I just watched the latest Matrix movie in Dolby Vision using the Arcana, and the image was absolutely gorgeous. I actually spent more time admiring the image than paying attention to the movie! The other benefit to ‘adding DV’ is the ability to use all the user adjustments on the Polaris to tweak the picture. One is not locked in to DV ‘presets’.
> I am very reluctant to include photos, as there is simply too much ‘contamination’ of the image as it goes from projector to camera to your screens, and thus they do not accurately show the cinematic viewing experience(wrong exposure/ altered colour temperature/much less gamut/etc). That being said, here are a few, unaltered, that seem to depict what was captured ‘relatively’ accurately (just to give you an idea)
> View attachment 3228404
> View attachment 3228405
> 
> 
> Dolby Vision (with the Arcana) HDR10
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3228406
> View attachment 3228407
> View attachment 3228408
> 
> 
> Dolby Vision - Polaris Benq HT3550 HDR10 HDR10 - Polaris
> 
> *Discussion – *After my preliminary viewing of material with the calibrated settings, I must say that I am beyond impressed with the image of this projector. The combination of all its strengths allows it to put out an image that is truly jaw dropping. During the Matrix, virtually every scene was like looking through a window. No artifacts. No noise. Just super clean, rich images. The colour range, depth and saturation delivered with enough lumens for HDR, even on a 150” screen, make the image pop. And, of course, Planet Earth II becomes eye candy. I even got a ‘wow’ out of my wife(fellow AVSers will understand).
> View attachment 3228409
> View attachment 3228410
> View attachment 3228411
> 
> 
> On the above three shots(again, unaltered from the camera), I try to show you the black level and shadow detail abilities. The first two are from Matrix DV; the third is from Planet Earth II HDR10. I tried to capture the vividness of the colour gamut from Planet Earth II on several shots and to be honest, it simply is just not possible to show those colours and saturations to you, sorry, so I have not tried to.
> The only scenes that suffer a little are those where the dynamic dimming does not operate to help out with the blacks. The native contrast for DLP is not super strong, and so a good dynamic dimming system is paramount to achieve nice blacks in low light scenes. And though the dimming is not very aggressive on the Polaris, it is sufficient enough to make almost every dark scene decent. The dimming is not as aggressive as the HT3550. This plus far less lumens on the HT3550 and thus lower black level gives better dark scenes on the HT3550, but not by much. There were only about two dark scenes in the entire Matrix movie that had enough luminance such that the dimming did not operate, leaving those scenes relatively flat. The HT3550 offers three levels of dimming, which were tweaked via a firmware update and the W6000 allowed one to manually adjust the dimming in its Service Menu. As mentioned before, the dimming on the Polaris, even on high, is relatively mild. It would be SO nice if the laser dimming on the Polaris was adjustable via the Service Menu such that one can select a more aggressive setting, thus achieving even better blacks. And if not, a firmware update from Bomaker that allowed this would be EVEN NICER. I realize that you can only take dimming up to a point before you get artifacts—so far at the current high setting, I have not noticed any—and so it would be nice to know just how far we can take the dimming before we get ‘deal breaking’ artifacts. Again, I appeal to Bomaker for help with this one. It would truly represent the cherry on top.
> *SUMMARY
> Pros:
> -phenomenal colour gamut-virtually all of Rec2020(without the use of a filter)
> -an abundance of calibrated lumens
> -very sharp
> -excellent grey scale tracking in SDR and HDR
> -complete CMS to fine tune colourimetry
> -perfect 24p handling/playback(without MEMC)
> -excellent overall motion handling(no need for MEMC)
> -transparent laser dimming
> -very good shadow detail
> -zero laser speckle
> -excellent tone mapping
> -compatible with Arcana allowing for Dolby Vision
> -virtually no RBE
> -whisper quiet
> 
> Cons:
> -mediocre native contrast
> -automatically maps Rec709 content to Rec2020*
> 
> A lot of metrics need to come together to make for a cinematic image. The Polaris succeeds almost to perfection in this regard. There has never been a better time to be a home theatre enthusiast. For not a lot of money, one can have the Polaris, that, in the words of a fellow AVS member, is ‘spectacular’. And I fully agree.
> 
> *SETTINGS*
> 
> Below are the settings that were used to achieve the calibrated results. I am happy to share them with you, but please do remember that there may be unit to unit variation. I strongly recommend individual calibration to achieve the maximum potential of your projector.
> 
> SettingSDRHDRBr44​48​Cont66​64​Sat50​55​SH50​50​CThothotWB R gain123​129​R offset130​128​G gain115​118​G offset128​128​B gain91​93​B offset128​127​CMS R T50​50​RS50​50​RB38​38​GT13​13​GS65​65​GB78​78​BT50​50​BS48​48​BB6​6​CT55​55​CS74​74​CB67​67​MT58​58​MS48​48​MB59​59​YT30​30​YS51​51​YB32​32​SK T45​45​SK S40​40​SK B55​55​GAMMAdarkColor Space0-2550-255LIGHTHigh dynamicHigh dynamic


I'm curious about the lens you made to correct the focus. Can you share the prescription? 🤓


----------



## lattiboy

spexman said:


> Much appreciate your time to do this for us....I hear you on the importance of a better black level, and thus have encouraged Bomaker to address this, IF possible, with more aggressive dynamic dimming. The shot you posted just after this comparing the two really shows that. I understand about the loss of shadow detail if tone-mapping is not done right--from your observations, the T1 has superior tone mapping and I am not at all surprised--if it is Dolby Vision certified, it only makes sense that it meets Dolby's stringent requirements. I have not done a ton of viewing yet, but I suspect to achieve better tone mapping on HDR10 material, I need to get my hands on a Panny player with the HDR Optimizer....Again, thank you for your efforts.


I would be really curious to see one of the HD Fury devices properly configured for the Polaris. There is so much potential in the picture and if you’re not looking for deepest blacks it’s arguably the best PJ available anywhere near the price point. Thanks again for all your work and your excellent review.

I am really hoping a professional gets a T1 so I can see what it’s fully capable of. I’m using practically out of the box settings at the moment because I lack the tools and time to do it right.


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## IanLaurie

spexman said:


> Ian thanks...out of curiosity, was the Oilers game you watched in Rec709 or Rec2020?


It would have been rec 709


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## spexman

vadom said:


> It is focused at 100" but not bellow, this is why I'm interested to find out why you mentioned that it is calibrated for 75". Also, if you could send a picture of the center of the test pattern (it is a cross) I would really appreciate it. I want to check if we have the same amount of color fringing.


vadom, I have sent you your request via PM--thank you.


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## spexman

lattiboy said:


> I would be really curious to see one of the HD Fury devices properly configured for the Polaris. There is so much potential in the picture and if you’re not looking for deepest blacks it’s arguably the best PJ available anywhere near the price point. Thanks again for all your work and your excellent review.
> 
> I am really hoping a professional gets a T1 so I can see what it’s fully capable of. I’m using practically out of the box settings at the moment because I lack the tools and time to do it right.


I will for sure spend more time going forward playing with the HDFury and DV to maximize image potential...and agreed, it would be great to see what the T1 is capable of being the king of contrast with a tri-laser engine! Enjoy!


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## spexman

IanLaurie said:


> It would have been rec 709


Ian, I apologize in advance for not being more clear in the review. My SDR settings are for Rec2020 material. It was not possible for me to calibrate the CMS for Rec709 because any Rec709 test pattern I gave the Polaris, it mapped it to Rec2020! So, the only possible way to calibrate SDR is for Rec2020. I mentioned in the Colour Space section that one needs to bring down the Saturation in order to 'combat' this, but it is only a band aid. As it stands, it is NOT possible to calibrate the CMS to Rec709, so, really, it is whatever can best be done by eye....that is why the Oiler's uniform looked red and not orange for you.....fortunately for me, my 4K cable box actually puts out 4K SDR but uses Rec2020(the Arcana lets me know this) and so the colours are spot on! I have 'appealed' to Bomaker to fix this with a firmware update(by giving us a menu option to choose colour space).....fingers and toes are crossed!


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## spexman

Just a heads up and a thank you to all of you on the forum for your input and feedback....with it, I have altered the review a little to reflect this. I have clarified the focus section for more useful information, put the jpegs in properly(full rez) so you can actually zoom in on them with good resolution, inserted 2160p test squares in the Sharpness section, and clarified that the SDR settings are for Rec2020 material because it is not possible to calibrate to Rec709 as the Polaris maps it to Rec2020 automatically...and so for Rec709 material, one needs to, at minimum, bring down the Saturation adjustment to tame the overblown colours. And finally, commentary on tone mapping has been edited...again, I thank you all for the feedback. It takes a village to maximize the projector's potential!


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## IanLaurie

spexman said:


> Ian, I apologize in advance for not being more clear in the review. My SDR settings are for Rec2020 material. It was not possible for me to calibrate the CMS for Rec709 because any Rec709 test pattern I gave the Polaris, it mapped it to Rec2020! So, the only possible way to calibrate SDR is for Rec2020. I mentioned in the Colour Space section that one needs to bring down the Saturation in order to 'combat' this, but it is only a band aid. As it stands, it is NOT possible to calibrate the CMS to Rec709, so, really, it is whatever can best be done by eye....that is why the Oiler's uniform looked red and not orange for you.....fortunately for me, my 4K cable box actually puts out 4K SDR but uses Rec2020(the Arcana lets me know this) and so the colours are spot on! I have 'appealed' to Bomaker to fix this with a firmware update(by giving us a menu option to choose colour space).....fingers and toes are crossed!


Interesting…. I have a few alternate sources to choose from, I might look and see if one of them is selectable


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## IanLaurie

spexman said:


> Ian, I apologize in advance for not being more clear in the review. My SDR settings are for Rec2020 material. It was not possible for me to calibrate the CMS for Rec709 because any Rec709 test pattern I gave the Polaris, it mapped it to Rec2020! So, the only possible way to calibrate SDR is for Rec2020. I mentioned in the Colour Space section that one needs to bring down the Saturation in order to 'combat' this, but it is only a band aid. As it stands, it is NOT possible to calibrate the CMS to Rec709, so, really, it is whatever can best be done by eye....that is why the Oiler's uniform looked red and not orange for you.....fortunately for me, my 4K cable box actually puts out 4K SDR but uses Rec2020(the Arcana lets me know this) and so the colours are spot on! I have 'appealed' to Bomaker to fix this with a firmware update(by giving us a menu option to choose colour space).....fingers and toes are crossed!


So it turns out the ps5 will convert any source to rec2020. Now to figure out how to watch hockey on it.


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## IanLaurie

So I went back and used all your settings, and used the ps5 to stream instead of my Apple TV.
Sure enough the orange is perfect. I did have to change back to my white balance settings though. It was extremely yellow, which a few others have mentioned as a problem for them too, and most seem to have a .6 alr/clr screen like mine.

so it looks like the key is adjust white balance according to screen type, find a source that can push rec2020 or display all content as hdr even when it’s not, and use spexman settings for the rest. I will say that some things from sdr rec709 sources may be a bit…. Electric. Like a blue line under the ice. But I assume this is a conversion problem and not a projector issue. Thanks for the settings!


----------



## spexman

IanLaurie said:


> So I went back and used all your settings, and used the ps5 to stream instead of my Apple TV.
> Sure enough the orange is perfect. I did have to change back to my white balance settings though. It was extremely yellow, which a few others have mentioned as a problem for them too, and most seem to have a .6 alr/clr screen like mine.
> 
> so it looks like the key is adjust white balance according to screen type, find a source that can push rec2020 or display all content as hdr even when it’s not, and use spexman settings for the rest. I will say that some things from sdr rec709 sources may be a bit…. Electric. Like a blue line under the ice. But I assume this is a conversion problem and not a projector issue. Thanks for the settings!


Good to hear my friend! Yes, the key is, as you mention, to try and feed it Rec2020 content ONLY. Glad that a small white balance adjustment seems to compensate for screen type(I can assure you, there is no yellow bias on my screen)....and yes, I too notice a few colours 'pop' more or are slightly electric as you point out while watching the game--not objectionable by any means. I was hoping it was perhaps a slightly expanded gamut from the broadcasters, but alas, may just be as you mention, a conversion issue. Glad we are making progress!


----------



## IanLaurie

If anyone else is using an Apple TV, go to video and audio settings, match source, and turn off match source dynamic range. Fixed my issue.


----------



## IanLaurie

spexman said:


> Good to hear my friend! Yes, the key is, as you mention, to try and feed it Rec2020 content ONLY. Glad that a small white balance adjustment seems to compensate for screen type(I can assure you, there is no yellow bias on my screen)....and yes, I too notice a few colours 'pop' more or are slightly electric as you point out while watching the game--not objectionable by any means. I was hoping it was perhaps a slightly expanded gamut from the broadcasters, but alas, may just be as you mention, a conversion issue. Glad we are making progress!


Yeah it may just be the difference between a positive gain screen vs a negative gain screen. I was really happy with this projector before, I’m seriously impressed now.


----------



## spexman

IanLaurie said:


> Yeah it may just be the difference between a positive gain screen vs a negative gain screen. I was really happy with this projector before, I’m seriously impressed now.


When I first read about 'calibrating' in an old CRT forum, I thought the fuss was overblown....however, the more I read, the more it made sense....so I took the plunge....once you see how 'locked in' everything looks post calibration, you simply don't want to go back to an uncalibrated set....the Polaris is not perfect, but man, the calibrated image is spectacular, it really is! Enjoy the beautiful view! And thank you for letting us know that the PS5 and ATV are viable options for Rec2020 SDR material!


----------



## AtlasShrugged08

@spexman Thank you for the wonderful post and the amount of work that would have gone into it - what a big help to all of us.
@IanLaurie Thank you for augmenting it and coming up with the hybrid. (your famous settings from before had already set the foundation).

I use a Akia 125 inch CINEWHITE UHD-B screen and I tried some of the settings but ran out of time to do more
(It already looks promising except the yellowy-whites but I need to go back and do more).

I did notice that there's a few things that leave me a bit confused (at least me) and there is not much mention of these settings (?) -
a) DLC - should I keep it turned off? or what role does it play?
b) There is a Image>HDR section that shows choices like like low HDR, medium, High etc. mine is set to medium but what do you folks recommend?
c) Do noise reduction, mpeg and pure motion do anything or can just be left alone?
d) Does turning on auto-brightness help or should be left turned off?

side note: I assume everyone is in the same boat when it comes to OS upgrades/firmware updates on this. It sits on a rudimentary 1.x Android version and no updates. same for all of you?

Thank you again to this wonderful thread. It makes this projector come alive.


----------



## spexman

You are welcome--happy to help make the projector come alive.
Very good questions you ask, and I will do my best to answer:
a)DLC--I believe it is some kind of 'contrast enhancing' feature--I did try it in the on position while calibrating--makes no difference to measured contrast. In real life viewing, it does an immense disservice to the picture, really crushing blacks and giving the image a noisy, video-like look. Keep it off.
b)HDR settings--depending on content, normal and high give the best results--if high yields too much highlight blow-out go down to normal. I found low crushes blacks too much.
c)I leave all these extra processing features off-again, they usually do the image a disservice.
d)again, I leave it off--I always leave the light mode on high dynamic as this provides the optimum contrast
I did check for an upgrade when I got it about a month ago, and last night....no upgrades were found.
Hope this helps and thank you.


----------



## IanLaurie

I agree with spexman. Most of these features are personal preference (perhaps you like pure motion), but for me, I very much prefer viewing things without all the post processing. 
I find on my negative gain screen (.6) hdr high is quite nice with spexman’s color and my white balance. However it may be too bright for a white screen or anything with a positive gain. So decide What you like and go with it. Also, if possible, change your source to send it an rec2020 signal (Apple TV calls this “range matching” which you would turn off so it converts the source to hdr, PS5 just turn HDR to always on and it will map sdr stuff to rec2020 standard).
You are correct as there has been no firmware upgrade since a day one update, which I assume all current ones are shipping with.
Also not a fan of auto brightness. But again you may prefer it, so up to you.


----------



## IanLaurie

Oh and if you can’t get your source to send sdr material in the full hdr colour space, for your sdr settings ( and only sdr settings) go back to my hybrid mode. Not quite as good, but better sdr color representation for most broadcast based materials older than the last few years. Again, only do this if you can’t force sdr material to convert through your source box.


----------



## AtlasShrugged08

Thank you much, both of you.
I did turn off most of the settings i mentioned in (a) and (c) and (d), good to see I was (Ignorantly) right to do so.

btw, no reflection on anyone except me (and my noob-iness), a lot of those terms mentioned above - I don't even know yet... (like negative gain, positive gain, rec2020 signal etc... but thats my homework todo).

sorry, follow up question though:



> if possible, change your source to send it an rec2020 signal (Apple TV calls this “range matching” which you would turn off so it converts the source to hdr, PS5 just turn HDR to always on and it will map sdr stuff to rec2020 standard).


I use a firetv cube and have set to HDR always on (instead of Auto), I think that should be the equivalent of above? I did not even touch my SDR settings as I was not clear how/when I would ever see SDR content if all my content is coming via the firetv. Am I mistaken?


----------



## spexman

AtlasShrugged08 said:


> Thank you much, both of you.
> I did turn off most of the settings i mentioned in (a) and (c), good to see I was (Ignorantly) right to do so.
> 
> btw, no reflection on anyone except me (and my noob-iness), a lot of those terms mentioned above - I don't even know yet... (like negative gain, positive gain, rec2020 signal etc... but thats my homework todo).
> 
> sorry, follow up question though:
> 
> 
> 
> I use a firetv cube and have set to HDR always on (instead of Auto), I think that should be the equivalent of above? I did not even touch my SDR settings as I was not clear how/when I would ever see SDR content if all my content is coming via the firetv. Am I mistaken?


I have not used the Firetv, but, if it is set to send out HDR always, that should work(as it should always be sending out Rec2020 as that is the colour space for HDR). So yes, as Ian advised for the Apple/PS5, this is the way to go! You will always have the right colours.


----------



## IanLaurie

AtlasShrugged08 said:


> Thank you much, both of you.
> I did turn off most of the settings i mentioned in (a) and (c) and (d), good to see I was (Ignorantly) right to do so.
> 
> btw, no reflection on anyone except me (and my noob-iness), a lot of those terms mentioned above - I don't even know yet... (like negative gain, positive gain, rec2020 signal etc... but thats my homework todo).
> 
> sorry, follow up question though:
> 
> 
> 
> I use a firetv cube and have set to HDR always on (instead of Auto), I think that should be the equivalent of above? I did not even touch my SDR settings as I was not clear how/when I would ever see SDR content if all my content is coming via the firetv. Am I mistaken?


Dead on. Exactly what you need to do. The projector probably won’t even see sdr material as sdr. So you may not see the sdr setting options very often.


----------



## IanLaurie

As for your other questions, they are easy enough to answer. Screen gain is referring to light reflectance of the screen material where a gain of 1 essentially means it is reflecting the projected material back at the same intensity as it is received. Any thing below 1 (like .6) is negative gain, in that the reflected image is less “bright” or intense, anything above 1 (like 1.1) is a positive gain or the light reflected is more “bright” or intense. So while a negative screen may appear grey when nothing is projected, a positive screen will be very white, and usually contain a special fabric that increases its reflectivity.

rec2020 and rec709 are colour standards. Rec 709 has been the standard range of colors available on TV sets for ages. Recently with the increase of brightness and computing power, they upgraded the color spectrum available to view, which basically means an increase in the range of colours available in a given signal. They named this increased available colour range rec2020. For consumers it is simply HDR or high dynamic range which is simply the variation possible from black to white of any colour can be much greater than previous standard limitations (rec709 or standard dynamic range sdr)it gets a little more complicated of course because you can have just as small a dynamic range as rec709, but format it as rec2020 and the output isn’t going to be much different. What force hdr is doing is mapping the colours from white to black for SDR material, and then spreading that range out over the available hdr spectrum by referencing the points it knows are technically the same like black and white. Kind of like stretching a rubber band. The rubber band isn’t any bigger, it has just been spread out over a greater area.

hope this answers a couple of your questions. If you look up your screen on their site, it should give you the gain under specs.


----------



## AtlasShrugged08

wow...that's awsome-ly explained.. no google search would have done it this better. Thank you Ian.

I looked it up, my screen is 1.3 gain.


----------



## Davita

Hey @spexman - really enjoyed reading your review. Worked with @Ianlaurie‘s settings and will try the Hybrid from the both of you. I am using the projector on a plain white wall and the Image is insane! I just really having issues that everything in the Top and left part is blurred out (especially some text!) but i guess that’s just due to me not using a screen and projecting on a plain white wall.

@spexman You mentioned using a HD-Fury device with the Polaris. I just bought the HD-Fury-Arcana, actually just for the ATMOS sound on my sonos arc. Now I‘m wondering what device you have and what settings you use. I seem to get DOLBY VISION, but activated LLDV -> HDR, since Dolby Vision results in no image at all on the Polaris. The output then is 10b/12b HDR. Many thanks in advance!

Cheers guys, I really love coming by once in a while and find myself reading all the Pages i‘ve missed.


----------



## pastorteacher

The Vertex2 is amazing with the Polaris!


----------



## phchrono

pastorteacher said:


> The Vertex2 is amazing with the Polaris!


Hello pastorteacher,
I see a lot of people who are equipped with an HD-Fury but initially mainly for the sound and the e-arc output. I would have liked to know about the image and the hypothesis of the Dolby Vision function, how does it work? is it plug and play? Is the source really recognized in DV? 
Thank you


----------



## spexman

Davita said:


> Hey @spexman - really enjoyed reading your review. Worked with @Ianlaurie‘s settings and will try the Hybrid from the both of you. I am using the projector on a plain white wall and the Image is insane! I just really having issues that everything in the Top and left part is blurred out (especially some text!) but i guess that’s just due to me not using a screen and projecting on a plain white wall.
> 
> @spexman You mentioned using a HD-Fury device with the Polaris. I just bought the HD-Fury-Arcana, actually just for the ATMOS sound on my sonos arc. Now I‘m wondering what device you have and what settings you use. I seem to get DOLBY VISION, but activated LLDV -> HDR, since Dolby Vision results in no image at all on the Polaris. The output then is 10b/12b HDR. Many thanks in advance!
> 
> Cheers guys, I really love coming by once in a while and find myself reading all the Pages i‘ve missed.


Hello Davita....the top part of the image is more sensitive to blur; however, if you have your projector properly aligned, and set between 90-100" 16:9 screen size, then it should be quite sharp.
I too have the Arcana--you must set the LLDV->HDR to on; set the primaries as Rec2020, and adjust the min/max luminance to your liking; if you feed it a Dolby Vision source that does LLDV, that source should then send out the LLDV signal! The display on your Arcana box will actually read : LLDV->HDR ACTIVE.


----------



## spexman

pastorteacher said:


> The Vertex2 is amazing with the Polaris!


Thanks for verifying! I am not surprised, as the Arcana is too!


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## AtlasShrugged08

Do the HD-Fury or the Vertex help with a "Polaris+ Denon AVR-S540BT + Bose Acoustimass" setup or does not make a difference? (It currently does DD+, no Atmos, no vision).


----------



## spexman

AtlasShrugged08 said:


> Do the HD-Fury or the Vertex help with a "Polaris+ Denon AVR-S540BT + Bose Acoustimass" setup or does not make a difference? (It currently does DD+, no Atmos, no vision).


From the available online specs, your receiver WILL pass Dolby Vision; so, the HD Fury device would allow Dolby Vision content to be viewed on the Polaris from compatible LLDV sources that run through the receiver. Your receiver cannot do Dolby Atmos, and the HD Fury will not change that. I hope this helps.


----------



## phchrono

spexman said:


> Thanks for verifying! I am not surprised, as the Arcana is too!


Hello spexman,
I don't know this type of box. I would like it coupled with the Polaris. Can you explain the principle to me? And what more can it bring to the Polaris? I see it can support DV but the Polaris doesn't. How it works? 
Thank you


----------



## spexman

phchrono said:


> Hello spexman,
> I don't know this type of box. I would like it coupled with the Polaris. Can you explain the principle to me? And what more can it bring to the Polaris? I see it can support DV but the Polaris doesn't. How it works?
> Thank you


Hello phchrono,
This was the exact question I had when I came across posts about the HDFury products. It actually seemed too good to be true. But, good thing for us, I can verify that IT IS TRUE. I will do my best to try and explain it as 'clearly' as possible. Several of the HDFury products take advantage of a 'loophole' Dolby created a few years ago. Initially, a DV player sent the DV signal to a DV display, and the display did the decoding of the DV signal, including the dynamic metadata. See, that is the biggest thing that differentiates HDR10 from DV. HDR10 does not use dynamic metadata; it does not 'optimize' every scene like DV does. The Polaris is not capable of doing this. It is not DV certified, nor does it have its own built in dynamic tone mapping. HOWEVER, a few years ago, apparently at the request of Sony who did not put powerful enough processing into their TVs to allow full blown DV decoding at that time, Dolby introduced LLDV(low latency Dolby Vision). While it can technically achieve the same results as the initial DV, the difference is that the processing takes place in the player, not the display(so the player does the heavy lifting in this scenario, not the display, as before in the initial DV set up). As long as the player 'sees' a DV display at the other end, it will send the processed DV signal to the display as HDR10 in a 12 bit envelope. We know that the Polaris does accept HDR10 signals. So, by inserting the HDFury between the Polaris and a LLDV capable player, say, for example, a Sony X700, the HDFury tells the X700 that a DV display is hooked up to it(even though it is not really). The X700 senses this, and thus decodes the DV signal and sends it to the HDFury, which then sends it to the Polaris. The Polaris sees this as an HDR10 signal, and so displays it in its HDR mode. The HDFury is NOT processing the signal. The X700 is. However, the HDFury has some LLDV settings that can be adjusted such the the ideal results are achieved for the Polaris' characteristics. Those LLDV settings are relayed back to the X700, and with those settings, the X700 adjusts its tone-mapping to best suit the Polaris. This is a huge help, as it allows us to 'dial in' the best results for our individual projectors. Furthermore, we can still go ahead and use all of our user adjustments on the Polaris to tweak the DV picture--something that is not 'allowed' by DV displays, as it 'locks out' most of the user adjustments. All the DV content I have watched so far has been fantastic, and has really help minimize highlight blowout and black crush that some HDR10 content can suffer from on the Polaris(I am working on posting some more results soon). In a nutshell, YES, we can enjoy DV content on the Polaris, and thus enjoy dynamic tone mapping, maximizing the HDR experience and minimizing compression annoyances. I fully agree with pastorteacher's comment, that the HDFury devices look amazing on the Polaris. The device I have is called the Arcana, I believe it is one of the more entry level devices and very easy to use-it works flawlessly with the Polaris. Any of the HDFury LLDV devices are VERY worthwhile upgrades for us and I strongly recommend them to maximize picture quality. We truly are 'fortunate' to be able to take advantage of this amazing 'loophole'! By inserting the HDFury into the signal path, we can very easily transform the Polaris into a Dolby Vision display!
I hope my description is 'clear' enough to understand....and good luck!


----------



## phchrono

Thank you Spexman, if you don't mind, so as not to pollute the topic, I'll send you a PM


----------



## JackB

Spexman,

Which of these streaming devices do LLDV: Roku, Firestick, Shield?


----------



## spexman

JackB said:


> Spexman,
> 
> Which of these streaming devices do LLDV: Roku, Firestick, Shield?


From their site:


----------



## spexman

I believe the Roku does as well(though not on their list for some reason)
I can confirm that the Shield Pro does.


----------



## lattiboy

spexman said:


> I believe the Roku does as well(though not on their list for some reason)
> I can confirm that the Shield Pro does.


Roku does have HDR force with DV. I do it with the T1


----------



## JackB

spexman said:


> I believe the Roku does as well(though not on their list for some reason)
> I can confirm that the Shield Pro does.


How about Shield TV? Low end version of Shield.


----------



## spexman

JackB said:


> How about Shield TV? Low end version of Shield.


Sorry JackB, not sure about that but my guess would be that yes, it does, as I believe most of these streaming devices with Dolby Vision use the LLDV player led format.


----------



## AtlasShrugged08

@spexman fyi if you didnt know, your review has made it into the mailer from Bomaker. They refer to it directly in the email alongside another (video) review.


----------



## spexman

AtlasShrugged08 said:


> @spexman fyi if you didnt know, your review has made it into the mailer from Bomaker. They refer to it directly in the email alongside another (video) review.


Thank you for the heads up--hopefully it helps some more enthusiasts get the most out of their Polaris.


----------



## pastorteacher

So returned the LSP9T, sadly the open box had focus issues so don't think I could fairly compare it against the Polaris. The HDFury Vertex 2 is amazing with the Polaris. Seriously worth getting (the Arcana I believe does the same thing) for the tone mapping. Just about as good as the LSP9T in my opinion. I do have an Optoma Cinemax P2 to play with this week also, but hard to go back to single laser projectors after Bomaker and Samsung. May look at the T1 as well. But a triple laser Polaris for under $2k coupled with HDFury device makes for a stellar deal.


----------



## spexman

pastorteacher said:


> But a triple laser Polaris for under $2k coupled with HDFury device makes for a stellar deal.


Could not agree more!


----------



## Crap I broke it again

Has anyone gotten anything higher than 8 bit on their source information? I've tested an apple tv 4k with hdr on and off, match content on and off, and different hdmi cables. Regardless of what I do, the source information still shows 8 bit. The settings menu does switch to HDR though. 

Side note, I'm not convinced that the polaris actually checks for updates. Yesterday I checked for updates and didn't see any. I then noticed that my wifi wasn't on. Realizing my error, I connected the wifi and rechecked for updates. Same time passed before it said no updates available.


----------



## spexman

Crap I broke it again said:


> Has anyone gotten anything higher than 8 bit on their source information? I've tested an apple tv 4k with hdr on and off, match content on and off, and different hdmi cables. Regardless of what I do, the source information still shows 8 bit. The settings menu does switch to HDR though.


Yes, I have seen 12 bit and 10 bit appear in the info screen(will post pix at a later time); however, it appears that all DV is shown as 8 bit; I know that it is sent as 12 bit(via Arcana info screen), yet the Polaris shows that it is 8 bit; I believe this has something to do with how the DV signal is packaged up and sent out. See this excellent post:Formovie Fengmi T1


----------



## Crap I broke it again

spexman said:


> Yes, I have seen 12 bit and 10 bit appear in the info screen(will post pix at a later time); however, it appears that all DV is shown as 8 bit; I know that it is sent as 12 bit(via Arcana info screen), yet the Polaris shows that it is 8 bit; I believe this has something to do with how the DV signal is packaged up and sent out. See this excellent post:Formovie Fengmi T1


Interesting. What content did you use to produce the 10 and 12 bit signals? I will try to recreate it. 

I haven't tried the hdfury dolbyvision workaround yet, but I just got a new integral2 today so I will give it a shot.


----------



## spexman

Crap I broke it again said:


> Interesting. What content did you use to produce the 10 and 12 bit signals? I will try to recreate it.
> 
> I haven't tried the hdfury dolbyvision workaround yet, but I just got a new integral2 today so I will give it a shot.


10 bit and 12 bit HDR films from the X700--10 bit from streaming services via the Shield.....will give you more details and pix in a few days...all the best with the Integral2!


----------



## Oakes

Thx so much for your excellent review and tips. My screen is fixed at about 170” so the upper right blurriness can be annoying especially with Flight Sim. Please please please tell me how you went about having those corrective lens made? Thank you in advance!


----------



## Oakes

Hi guys. I stumbled upon this little Polaris gem when they emailed out Spexman’s review a few days back. I got all excited about his mention of correcting CA with a custom designed lens so I’ve been slowly reading through the whole thread.
i had just moved and had a ‘game room’ to turn into a media room when I started reading about the Samsung triple laser UST for 7k usd. That was on the cusp of too much money so when Uncrate posted about the Polaris I got excited. I assumed it was essentially a clone with all the important internals the same but with different UI. Crowd sourced projects are always a risk. I would have preferred buying from Walmart with an extended warranty but I took a chance and got a ‘good’ unit.
I had my friend help me build a 4K screen on my wall. I was able to enlarge up to about 170” with a 4” black felt border all around. I’ve had nothing but good times so far! I fiddled with the color settings to get a vibrant picture. When I played the PS5 Director’s Cut version of Ghost Of Tsushima, at times I almost wept when riding my horse through woods made up of trees dripping with pink and white flowers! I never experienced any gaming lag of issue with that game, and since then have also completed Deathloop, and am currently on the new Halo game. No lag, the colors are insane, the game looks and sounds so amazing.
i have my PS5 plugged into a Denon AVR X2700H to a Bose 7.1 (300$ pawn shop LNIB and sounds ridiculously better than it should). I’m also running my Series X and a PC (RTX 3080) through the Denon.
I didn’t care about the right upper screen CA blur until hooking up the PC. Wouldn’t want to use this setup for word processing or accounting. But … that’s not the point of my media room anyways.
I’d still love to fix the blurry edges if I could though…would make the new Flight Sim even better with this setup. Oh yeah, Flight Sim works flawlessly with this setup. The Polaris functions nearly perfect when I’m flying over the Grand Canyon - you have to see it to believe it!! The only issue is reading and using instruments/buttons/dials that appear in the edges of the screen (worst at top right).
again, for any tv shows or movies that I’ve watched it’s not been an annoyance at all.Most people focus on the center screen so the blurred edges have not effected my viewing quality perceptibly.


----------



## spexman

Oakes said:


> Thx so much for your excellent review and tips. My screen is fixed at about 170” so the upper right blurriness can be annoying especially with Flight Sim. Please please please tell me how you went about having those corrective lens made? Thank you in advance!


You are welcome Oakes, welcome aboard--please check your mailbox.


----------



## spexman

*Optimizing HDR on the Polaris*

HDR poses a big challenge for projectors as it was really set up for bright televisions; while the Polaris does a decent job tone mapping with most material on its High HDR setting, some material suffers from blow-out and loss of highlight details. Setting to Medium helps, but at a small penalty of some black crush. The ideal, of course, would be to avoid both of these unwanted artifacts.

While watching Sing 2 in HDR10, on the High HDR settings, it was clear from the get go that there was just too much blowout of highlights. While it is easy to see in white areas, the truth is, the entire picture suffers. Here is an example below(all photos taken with the same camera settings, and the Polaris HDR setting on High):
*HDR10 on the X700







*
The area that tells the tale here is her cheeks. Her cheeks are barely rosy, and you can hardly see the whiskers drawn on them. As we know, HDR10 relies only on static metadata. This metadata is sent to the projector to help with tone mapping. Using a compatible HDFury device, like the Arcana, one can adjust HDR metadata values in attempts to improve the projector's tone mapping. Unfortunately, the Polaris does not respond to/ignores changes in the HDR10 metadata--it appears that we are 'stuck' with the 3 onboard options(low/medium/high) and that is that.
And so, ideally, dynamic tone mapping should be able to help us here, as the tone mapping is already done, to optimize each scene's dynamic range, in the player, effectively bypassing the projector's tone mapping. This is made possible with the Arcana and LLDV:

*DV(LLDV) via the Arcana using the Sony X700







*
The Arcana has LLDV settings that can be optimally adjusted for the Polaris. As you can see from the above photo, which is from the Sing2 Dolby Vision version played from the X700, the cheeks are so much more saturated and rosy, and her whiskers are more visible. A definite improvement over the HDR10 version. This is the benefit of dynamic tone mapping on each and every scene.

*HDR10 output as DV(LLDV) via the Arcana using the X700








*

The X700 allows one to 'force' DV output, even on HDR10 sources(I believe quite a few streaming boxes offer this option too). While this does not, of course, give us dynamic tone mapping, what it does give us is the ability to tone map inside the X700 before it is sent out to the Polaris. Again, the Arcana's LLDV settings allow us to fine tune that tone mapping, and the above photo shows the results. This is the same HDR10 source as the first photo--and it is obviously an immense improvement, as shown by the rosiness of her cheeks and the whisker details. Using these settings, I then went to a scene from the original Sing, which also suffers from 'blow-out' with the High setting, to see what difference was made:

*HDR10 via the X700*











*HDR10 output as DV(LLDV) via the Arcana using the X700*









Looking at the panda's face, one can easily see that in the HDR10 photo, the entire face is blown out; so much so that the change from grey to white in his ears and face is barely discernable. However, in the bottom shot, with tone mapping performed in the X700 at the command of the Arcana and output as LLDV, the panda's face is SO much better, virtually all of the blowouts gone.

*CONCLUSION*
Using an HDFury device such as the Arcana, one can enjoy Dolby Vision dynamic tone mapping, the gold standard for HDR. Even for HDR10 content, using a source like the Sony X700 with the Arcana, tone mapping can also be improved on. Polaris owners are fortunate to have add-on options to greatly improve on HDR tone mapping!


----------



## laserdiscguy

spexman said:


> *Optimizing HDR on the Polaris*
> 
> HDR poses a big challenge for projectors as it was really set up for bright televisions; while the Polaris does a decent job tone mapping with most material on its High HDR setting, some material suffers from blow-out and loss of highlight details. Setting to Medium helps, but at a small penalty of some black crush. The ideal, of course, would be to avoid both of these unwanted artifacts.


It's been a while since I checked in on this thread, and I see now that I've missed some great conversations regarding getting the best picture quality out of this projector. I've certainly noticed the issues with accurately displaying HDR content and had considered purchasing an HDfury device to help compensate, so it's nice to now have some confirmation from other users of this projector that it does make a positive impact and is not just snake oil.

@spexman I really enjoyed reading your detailed review of this projector, along with some of your revelations as to how it handles HDR content. Sounds like I definitely need to put an HDFury device on my shopping list. Curse these forums and their impact on my wallet!


----------



## spexman

laserdiscguy said:


> It's been a while since I checked in on this thread, and I see now that I've missed some great conversations regarding getting the best picture quality out of this projector. I've certainly noticed the issues with accurately displaying HDR content and had considered purchasing an HDfury device to help compensate, so it's nice to now have some confirmation from other users of this projector that it does make a positive impact and is not just snake oil.
> 
> @spexman I really enjoyed reading your detailed review of this projector, along with some of your revelations as to how it handles HDR content. Sounds like I definitely need to put an HDFury device on my shopping list. Curse these forums and their impact on my wallet!


Nice to hear from you laserdiscguy...the way I see it, considering the picture it puts out, the Polaris represents a phenomenal value---with the money saved, an HDFury device is well 'justified'. It sure is nice to be able to up the picture quality even more when financially ready


----------



## lattiboy

spexman said:


> *Optimizing HDR on the Polaris*
> 
> HDR poses a big challenge for projectors as it was really set up for bright televisions; while the Polaris does a decent job tone mapping with most material on its High HDR setting, some material suffers from blow-out and loss of highlight details. Setting to Medium helps, but at a small penalty of some black crush. The ideal, of course, would be to avoid both of these unwanted artifacts.
> 
> While watching Sing 2 in HDR10, on the High HDR settings, it was clear from the get go that there was just too much blowout of highlights. While it is easy to see in white areas, the truth is, the entire picture suffers. Here is an example below(all photos taken with the same camera settings, and the Polaris HDR setting on High):
> *HDR10 on the X700
> View attachment 3235714
> *
> The area that tells the tale here is her cheeks. Her cheeks are barely rosy, and you can hardly see the whiskers drawn on them. As we know, HDR10 relies only on static metadata. This metadata is sent to the projector to help with tone mapping. Using a compatible HDFury device, like the Arcana, one can adjust HDR metadata values in attempts to improve the projector's tone mapping. Unfortunately, the Polaris does not respond to/ignores changes in the HDR10 metadata--it appears that we are 'stuck' with the 3 onboard options(low/medium/high) and that is that.
> And so, ideally, dynamic tone mapping should be able to help us here, as the tone mapping is already done, to optimize each scene's dynamic range, in the player, effectively bypassing the projector's tone mapping. This is made possible with the Arcana and LLDV:
> 
> *DV(LLDV) via the Arcana using the Sony X700
> View attachment 3235720
> *
> The Arcana has LLDV settings that can be optimally adjusted for the Polaris. As you can see from the above photo, which is from the Sing2 Dolby Vision version played from the X700, the cheeks are so much more saturated and rosy, and her whiskers are more visible. A definite improvement over the HDR10 version. This is the benefit of dynamic tone mapping on each and every scene.
> 
> *HDR10 output as DV(LLDV) via the Arcana using the X700
> 
> View attachment 3235735
> *
> 
> The X700 allows one to 'force' DV output, even on HDR10 sources(I believe quite a few streaming boxes offer this option too). While this does not, of course, give us dynamic tone mapping, what it does give us is the ability to tone map inside the X700 before it is sent out to the Polaris. Again, the Arcana's LLDV settings allow us to fine tune that tone mapping, and the above photo shows the results. This is the same HDR10 source as the first photo--and it is obviously an immense improvement, as shown by the rosiness of her cheeks and the whisker details. Using these settings, I then went to a scene from the original Sing, which also suffers from 'blow-out' with the High setting, to see what difference was made:
> 
> *HDR10 via the X700*
> 
> View attachment 3235752
> 
> 
> 
> *HDR10 output as DV(LLDV) via the Arcana using the X700*
> View attachment 3235758
> 
> 
> Looking at the panda's face, one can easily see that in the HDR10 photo, the entire face is blown out; so much so that the change from grey to white in his ears and face is barely discernable. However, in the bottom shot, with tone mapping performed in the X700 at the command of the Arcana and output as LLDV, the panda's face is SO much better, virtually all of the blowouts gone.
> 
> *CONCLUSION*
> Using an HDFury device such as the Arcana, one can enjoy Dolby Vision dynamic tone mapping, the gold standard for HDR. Even for HDR10 content, using a source like the Sony X700 with the Arcana, tone mapping can also be improved on. Polaris owners are fortunate to have add-on options to greatly improve on HDR tone mapping!


Thanks so much for your incredibly illuminating tests! 

I still have the Polaris sitting in a box. I don’t plan on using an X700 and would prefer to use my Roku Ultra or Nvidia Shield TV. Can I ask if there is any HDfury device that works with these and the Polaris you’re aware of? I’m still unclear on how these devices work exactly….


----------



## spexman

lattiboy said:


> Thanks so much for your incredibly illuminating tests!
> 
> I still have the Polaris sitting in a box. I don’t plan on using an X700 and would prefer to use my Roku Ultra or Nvidia Shield TV. Can I ask if there is any HDfury device that works with these and the Polaris you’re aware of? I’m still unclear on how these devices work exactly….


Good to hear from you lattiboy--any HDFury device that supports LLDV-->HDR should work just fine. I am using the Arcana, which I believe is their entry level device. I can for sure confirm that it works really well with the Polaris, as witnessed from the shots above. I have a Shield Pro, and it works just fine too with the Arcana....if the Roku Ultra puts out LLDV(which I believe it does), then it should work too!
As far as how they work, it really is quite clever. The HDFury devices themselves do not do any 'processing' of the signal. They just 'tell' the source that it is connected to a LLDV compatible display! And so, the source processes/tone maps the DV signal and sends it out to the HDFury device as HDR10. The HDFury device then sends it to the Polaris which can accept that HDR10 signal which has already dynamically tone mapped at the source. On top of that, the HDFury devices have settings such as colour primaries, min and max luminance; these can be experimented with to achieve the 'optimal' tone mapping at the source for the projector. The results above reflect that....
Hope that helps!


----------



## lattiboy

spexman said:


> Good to hear from you lattiboy--any HDFury device that supports LLDV-->HDR should work just fine. I am using the Arcana, which I believe is their entry level device. I can for sure confirm that it works really well with the Polaris, as witnessed from the shots above. I have a Shield Pro, and it works just fine too with the Arcana....if the Roku Ultra puts out LLDV(which I believe it does), then it should work too!
> As far as how they work, it really is quite clever. The HDFury devices themselves do not do any 'processing' of the signal. They just 'tell' the source that it is connected to a LLDV compatible display! And so, the source processes/tone maps the DV signal and sends it out to the HDFury device as HDR10. The HDFury device then sends it to the Polaris which can accept that HDR10 signal which has already dynamically tone mapped at the source. On top of that, the HDFury devices have settings such as colour primaries, min and max luminance; these can be experimented with to achieve the 'optimal' tone mapping at the source for the projector. The results above reflect that....
> Hope that helps!


Thanks for answering my question! I’m always confused when they talk about different devices like the arcana and the vertex whose prices vary by many hundreds of dollars. But even the entry-level one will fake a different display type to force mapping and it works with any media streamer essentially. That makes senss


----------



## spexman

lattiboy said:


> Thanks for answering my question! I’m always confused when they talk about different devices like the arcana and the vertex whose prices vary by many hundreds of dollars. But even the entry-level one will fake a different display type to force mapping and it works with any media streamer essentially. That makes senss


you got it.


----------



## JackB

Spexman,

What is the setting(s) you use on the Shield that sends out an LLDV stream in the form of an HDR 10 signal?


----------



## spexman

JackB said:


> Spexman,
> 
> What is the setting(s) you use on the Shield that sends out an LLDV stream in the form of an HDR 10 signal?


Just turn on the Dolby Vision option on your Shield; it is that simple.


----------



## JackB

spexman said:


> Just turn on the Dolby Vision option on your Shield; it is that simple.


I'll look for it. Is it in the list of 81 resolution settings?


----------



## spexman

JackB said:


> I'll look for it. Is it in the list of 81 resolution settings?


Should be there once you enter the Display Settings(and your Shield must be the 2019 version)


----------



## JackB

spexman said:


> Should be there once you enter the Display Settings(and your Shield must be the 2019 version)


OK, I believe it is.


----------



## valdis.l

Hi all,


Today Polaris 4K arrived and there is a problem - after turning on fans spin up, music plays, it flashes image for half a second and that's it, red light start to flash, no image. I'v checked packaging, no damage. 

Any ideas what to do ? 

Thank you !

Valdis


----------



## spexman

valdis.l said:


> Hi all,
> 
> 
> Today Polaris 4K arrived and there is a problem - after turning on fans spin up, music plays, it flashes image for half a second and that's it, red light start to flash, no image. I'v checked packaging, no damage.
> 
> Any ideas what to do ?
> 
> Thank you !
> 
> Valdis


Very sorry to hear that. I would try to uplug/re-plug a few times(though I suspect you likely have)--if that does not work, contact Bomaker.


----------



## valdis.l

spexman said:


> Very sorry to hear that. I would try to uplug/re-plug a few times(though I suspect you likely have)--if that does not work, contact Bomaker.


Yes, tried that, nothing changed. Moved it away from wall, turned off home security camera that emits IR, tried another rooms - no luck. Will leave it disconnected for a while, maybe there is some sort of protection built in - humidity or temperature sensor that turns it off.


----------



## spexman

valdis.l said:


> Yes, tried that, nothing changed. Moved it away from wall, turned off home security camera that emits IR, tried another rooms - no luck. Will leave it disconnected for a while, maybe there is some sort of protection built in - humidity or temperature sensor that turns it off.


Sounds like a good plan...hope it comes to life for you--keep us posted.


----------



## valdis.l

spexman said:


> Sounds like a good plan...hope it comes to life for you--keep us posted.


Good news !

Since Polaris it is just an usual android box with laser system hooked up and i'm familiar with tech I took it in my hands.

I did open projector to check what's inside. And I found that connector from 2 proximity sensors was not fully seated on board and what surprised me most - connector to thermal diode that goes to laser was out !

That' s because of too short thermal diode cable and it was zip tied to other thicker cables.

So - connected everything, double checked all other connectors and voila, we have a nice 4K picture 

What we can learn from this - if there are no "warranty void" labels always open box for visual inspection. My message to Bomaker - guy's ... come on, it is not that expensive to put some hot glue on connectors to secure them and to use proper length cabling !


----------



## spexman

valdis.l said:


> Good news !
> 
> Since Polaris it is just an usual android box with laser system hooked up and i'm familiar with tech I took it in my hands.
> 
> I did open projector to check what's inside. And I found that connector from 2 proximity sensors was not fully seated on board and what surprised me most - connector to thermal diode that goes to laser was out !
> 
> That' s because of too short thermal diode cable and it was zip tied to other thicker cables.
> 
> So - connected everything, double checked all other connectors and voila, we have a nice 4K picture
> 
> What we can learn from this - if there are no "warranty void" labels always open box for visual inspection. My message to Bomaker - guy's ... come on, it is not that expensive to put some hot glue on connectors to secure them and to use proper length cabling !
> 
> View attachment 3236929
> View attachment 3236930
> View attachment 3236928
> View attachment 3236927


WELL DONE!! That is fantastic work!!! Now you can enjoy the well deserved view!


----------



## amheck

hi everyone, just came across this UST the other day and have been doing some reading and watching videos. This would be my first projector setup. I was strongly interested in the Vava Chroma but just wasn't ready to pull the trigger on something that didn't have a delivery date when they stopped the Indiegogo campaign.

Anyway, I was planning to the Vava 120" screen but it doesn't look like that's even purchasable at this time. But other than that, I think I had a blank slate to work with. I'm planning to hang the screen up high near the 8' ceiling, but plan to build the cabinet where the UST would sit so I think I have some flexibility on placement. I would just like to get it high enough so that I can get the center channel speaker as high as possible.

As others have said, the price at Walmart with 90 day returns and 4 year warranty is a huge plus. I'm just worried reading some comments here that the 120" screen I want to get is not right for this particular model. I don't feel comfortable ordering from China directly and would be willing to go up to $3000 USD, but not sure there's really much comparable. I guess perhaps the Optima P2 but the triple laser really would be nice.

So I guess a few things - if you wanted to go 120", would you still give this unit a chance? Is there anything at all in the same ballpark for around $3k that would be better for a 120" screen?


----------



## Oakes

valdis.l said:


> Good news !
> 
> Since Polaris it is just an usual android box with laser system hooked up and i'm familiar with tech I took it in my hands.
> 
> I did open projector to check what's inside. And I found that connector from 2 proximity sensors was not fully seated on board and what surprised me most - connector to thermal diode that goes to laser was out !
> 
> That' s because of too short thermal diode cable and it was zip tied to other thicker cables.
> 
> So - connected everything, double checked all other connectors and voila, we have a nice 4K picture
> 
> What we can learn from this - if there are no "warranty void" labels always open box for visual inspection. My message to Bomaker - guy's ... come on, it is not that expensive to put some hot glue on connectors to secure them and to use proper length cabling !
> 
> View attachment 3236929
> View attachment 3236930
> View attachment 3236928
> View attachment 3236927


Dude you are da man! Kudos for solving the problem and for the courage to look into it for yourself. Back in the day I had bought a pre built gaming pc in small form case and it constantly crashed until I opened it and found one power cable was loose. Fixed the whole thing. Super expensive American built PC and they couldn’t do a final cable check!


----------



## kaptaink45

amheck said:


> hi everyone, just came across this UST the other day and have been doing some reading and watching videos. This would be my first projector setup. I was strongly interested in the Vava Chroma but just wasn't ready to pull the trigger on something that didn't have a delivery date when they stopped the Indiegogo campaign.
> 
> Anyway, I was planning to the Vava 120" screen but it doesn't look like that's even purchasable at this time. But other than that, I think I had a blank slate to work with. I'm planning to hang the screen up high near the 8' ceiling, but plan to build the cabinet where the UST would sit so I think I have some flexibility on placement. I would just like to get it high enough so that I can get the center channel speaker as high as possible.
> 
> As others have said, the price at Walmart with 90 day returns and 4 year warranty is a huge plus. I'm just worried reading some comments here that the 120" screen I want to get is not right for this particular model. I don't feel comfortable ordering from China directly and would be willing to go up to $3000 USD, but not sure there's really much comparable. I guess perhaps the Optima P2 but the triple laser really would be nice.
> 
> So I guess a few things - if you wanted to go 120", would you still give this unit a chance? Is there anything at all in the same ballpark for around $3k that would be better for a 120" screen?


I've been using the polaris for over a year now with a 120" Vividstorm floor rising UST ceiling light rejecting screen. The picture in the upper right edge of my screen gets a little blurry, but I honestly do not notice it when watching TV or movies. The picture is sharp everywhere else. The Polaris is much better than the original Vava 4K UST I was using before.


----------



## JackB

valdis.l said:


> Good news !
> 
> Since Polaris it is just an usual android box with laser system hooked up and i'm familiar with tech I took it in my hands.
> 
> I did open projector to check what's inside. And I found that connector from 2 proximity sensors was not fully seated on board and what surprised me most - connector to thermal diode that goes to laser was out !
> 
> That' s because of too short thermal diode cable and it was zip tied to other thicker cables.
> 
> So - connected everything, double checked all other connectors and voila, we have a nice 4K picture
> 
> What we can learn from this - if there are no "warranty void" labels always open box for visual inspection. My message to Bomaker - guy's ... come on, it is not that expensive to put some hot glue on connectors to secure them and to use proper length cabling !
> 
> View attachment 3236929
> View attachment 3236930
> View attachment 3236928
> View attachment 3236927


It’s rumored that the Hisense, which I believe this is, has a focus adjuster inside. Did you happen to look for that while you had it open? If not, could you open it back up and take a look for it? I know a lot of owners would like to know if there is one and would give it a try if they knew one was there.


----------



## amheck

kaptaink45 said:


> I've been using the polaris for over a year now with a 120" Vividstorm floor rising UST ceiling light rejecting screen. The picture in the upper right edge of my screen gets a little blurry, but I honestly do not notice it when watching TV or movies. The picture is sharp everywhere else. The Polaris is much better than the original Vava 4K UST I was using before.


thanks - you didn't find it difficult to un-see the not as sharp section? That's what I'm most worried about. as long as PS5 and movies are overall super impressive, I'm hoping I would be able to overlook this, too.


----------



## kaptaink45

amheck said:


> thanks - you didn't find it difficult to un-see the not as sharp section? That's what I'm most worried about. as long as PS5 and movies are overall super impressive, I'm hoping I would be able to overlook this, too.


I had no difficulties ignoring the slightly blurry corner as it is barely noticeable to me.


----------



## valdis.l

JackB said:


> It’s rumored that the Hisense, which I believe this is, has a focus adjuster inside. Did you happen to look for that while you had it open? If not, could you open it back up and take a look for it? I know a lot of owners would like to know if there is one and would give it a try if they knew one was there.


Nope, was more focused in getting this thing running. Can do it next week, ordered 150 inch ALR screen, will setup everything and then will do "deeper" inspection. I think that focus could be improved a bit, upper edge is bit blurry and there is some color ringing visible.


----------



## JackB

valdis.l said:


> Nope, was more focused in getting this thing running. Can do it next week, ordered 150 inch ALR screen, will setup everything and then will do "deeper" inspection. I think that focus could be improved a bit, upper edge is bit blurry and there is some color ringing visible.


With a size that big a focus adjustment may be of strong value. Keep us posted.


----------



## Decker55

Hello to all!
I am very impressed by the bomaker performance. I ve been reading about the improvement that hdfury devices can make. If can someone can give an advise of which one to buy. They have several devices, hdfury vertex, vertex2, arcana, diva, maestro... my main purpose will be to get dolby vision. Just that. Will device you will. Rcomend to buy. Also they are promoting an 8k capable devices. Thanks in advance


----------



## Brajesh

Any of those HDFury devices will do. VRROOM is more future-proof w/HDMI 2.1 and 8K support. They have a responsive Discord support/discussion site that's worth joining to ask.


----------



## AtlasShrugged08

(Maybe a late response but i just peeked in, this forum is so alive and active nowadays 🤞)

I am using a Akia 125 inch screen and its perfect (I do not even notice the blurring on the upper right edge unless I look hard and I looked hard only because folks on this forum mentioned it).
The projector is awesome, love it. (and my first foray into projectors too)



amheck said:


> hi everyone, just came across this UST the other day and have been doing some reading and watching videos. This would be my first projector setup. I was strongly interested in the Vava Chroma but just wasn't ready to pull the trigger on something that didn't have a delivery date when they stopped the Indiegogo campaign.
> 
> Anyway, I was planning to the Vava 120" screen but it doesn't look like that's even purchasable at this time. But other than that, I think I had a blank slate to work with. I'm planning to hang the screen up high near the 8' ceiling, but plan to build the cabinet where the UST would sit so I think I have some flexibility on placement. I would just like to get it high enough so that I can get the center channel speaker as high as possible.
> 
> As others have said, the price at Walmart with 90 day returns and 4 year warranty is a huge plus. I'm just worried reading some comments here that the 120" screen I want to get is not right for this particular model. I don't feel comfortable ordering from China directly and would be willing to go up to $3000 USD, but not sure there's really much comparable. I guess perhaps the Optima P2 but the triple laser really would be nice.
> 
> So I guess a few things - if you wanted to go 120", would you still give this unit a chance? Is there anything at all in the same ballpark for around $3k that would be better for a 120" screen?


----------



## Crap I broke it again

Are any of you projecting onto a scope screen? I'm using a 120" wide scope screen, which is the equivalent of a 140" 16:10 screen. I don't get any blurriness in the corners, probably because they're off the screen.

Does anyone want to share there max and min luminance for the hdfury boxes? Not sure if I should change it on my arcana. Thanks!


----------



## Decker55

I M tdying the hdfury vertex but my screen flickers a lot. Is conneceted to the wall and HDMI cables are good. Maybe setrinfs are not correct for dolby vision? Any advice?


----------



## spexman

Crap I broke it again said:


> Are any of you projecting onto a scope screen? I'm using a 120" wide scope screen, which is the equivalent of a 140" 16:10 screen. I don't get any blurriness in the corners, probably because they're off the screen.
> 
> Does anyone want to share there max and min luminance for the hdfury boxes? Not sure if I should change it on my arcana. Thanks!


I set the primaries to Rec2020, min luminance to 0, and then fiddle around with the max luminance to see what gives the best picture(least highlight blowout/black crush). The ideal setting may be different depending on source and your pictures settings. For MOST of my sources, 200 seems to be the best for me, but again, that may not be the case for you. The nice thing is, we can experiment! Hope that helps.


----------



## valdis.l

Couple of useful utilities for Polaris :

MLUSB Mounter to read NTFS, ExFat, no more limit of 4 Gb file size
MediaHouse Pro UPnP / DLNA browser for streaming videos from network shares.


----------



## hifiand3dfan

spexman said:


> You are welcome Oakes, welcome aboard--please check your mailbox.


I would also love to hear more about this corrective lens. I have a 180 screen and the blurriness was unbearable so at that time I returned it. But if there is a way to fix the blurriness, that would be awesome.

Can you share?


----------



## spexman

hifiand3dfan said:


> I would also love to hear more about this corrective lens. I have a 180 screen and the blurriness was unbearable so at that time I returned it. But if there is a way to fix the blurriness, that would be awesome.
> 
> Can you share?


Hello hifiand3dfan,
As mentioned in the review, the Polaris is a fixed focus projector; that means it is optimally focused for one set distance. Thankfully, its depth of focus is excellent, so there is some play back and forth in terms of still achieving a sharp image. 84-110" seems to be that play zone. Anything above 110" benefits from a lens to help put things back into focus(and so clearly, 180" WELL exceeds this, and so the blur will be as you mentioned, unbearable). There are several USTs that allow one to adjust focus up to even 150". The Bomaker does not have this, and so, the only option we have to achieve perfect focus at sizes >110" is to add a lens into the light path. I hope that helps--feel free to PM me if you have further questions.


----------



## JackB

Spexman,

When are you going to take the cover off again and look for that focus wheel?


----------



## spexman

JackB said:


> Spexman,
> 
> When are you going to take the cover off again and look for that focus wheel?


JackB, it was not me who took the cover off...


----------



## JackB

spexman said:


> JackB, it was not me who took the cover off...


My bad. Do you remember who it was?


----------



## ConnorsDad

JackB said:


> My bad. Do you remember who it was?


Valdis.I


----------



## hifiand3dfan

spexman said:


> Hello hifiand3dfan,
> As mentioned in the review, the Polaris is a fixed focus projector; that means it is optimally focused for one set distance. Thankfully, its depth of focus is excellent, so there is some play back and forth in terms of still achieving a sharp image. 84-110" seems to be that play zone. Anything above 110" benefits from a lens to help put things back into focus(and so clearly, 180" WELL exceeds this, and so the blur will be as you mentioned, unbearable). There are several USTs that allow one to adjust focus up to even 150". The Bomaker does not have this, and so, the only option we have to achieve perfect focus at sizes >110" is to add a lens into the light path. I hope that helps--feel free to PM me if you have further questions.


I am aware and I know the limitations the Bomaker was designed for. But maybe I misunderstood you. I thought you had a specific solution - as in a specific lens or type of lens to get- that you can share? Will also DM you.


----------



## JackB

valdis.l said:


> Good news !
> 
> Since Polaris it is just an usual android box with laser system hooked up and i'm familiar with tech I took it in my hands.
> 
> I did open projector to check what's inside. And I found that connector from 2 proximity sensors was not fully seated on board and what surprised me most - connector to thermal diode that goes to laser was out !
> 
> That' s because of too short thermal diode cable and it was zip tied to other thicker cables.
> 
> So - connected everything, double checked all other connectors and voila, we have a nice 4K picture
> 
> What we can learn from this - if there are no "warranty void" labels always open box for visual inspection. My message to Bomaker - guy's ... come on, it is not that expensive to put some hot glue on connectors to secure them and to use proper length cabling !
> 
> View attachment 3236929
> View attachment 3236930
> View attachment 3236928
> View attachment 3236927


j. Valois,

Any chance you might get to looking for a focus dial under the covers thi week?


----------



## Jibs92

I am just entering this post to be post #1000. But I do have something to add. I managed to get Logitech to add the Bomaker Polaris 4K to its list of devices. The guy I was talking with was super nice and he took about two months working on it. Look it up and give it a try.


----------



## Jibs92

Brajesh said:


> Any of those HDFury devices will do. VRROOM is more future-proof w/HDMI 2.1 and 8K support. They have a responsive Discord support/discussion site that's worth joining to ask.


Do you happen to have Discord invite link for that group?


----------



## spexman

Jibs92 said:


> I am just entering this post to be post #1000. But I do have something to add. I managed to get Logitech to add the Bomaker Polaris 4K to its list of devices. The guy I was talking with was super nice and he took about two months working on it. Look it up and give it a try.


Thank you for doing that Jibs92--all Logitech owners are appreciative, for sure.


----------



## mexicann

Jibs92 said:


> Do you happen to have Discord invite link for that group?











Join the HDfury.com Discord Server!


Check out the HDfury.com community on Discord - hang out with 14,900 other members and enjoy free voice and text chat.




discord.gg


----------



## AtlasShrugged08

Thats so awesome. Thank you @Jibs92 for doing that.

(I am laughing at myself though, spent 2 hours teaching all the commands to Logitech Harmony, could have saved it if I had just waited lol).



Jibs92 said:


> I am just entering this post to be post #1000. But I do have something to add. I managed to get Logitech to add the Bomaker Polaris 4K to its list of devices. The guy I was talking with was super nice and he took about two months working on it. Look it up and give it a try.


----------



## jxhopper

hifiand3dfan said:


> I would also love to hear more about this corrective lens. I have a 180 screen and the blurriness was unbearable so at that time I returned it. But if there is a way to fix the blurriness, that would be awesome.
> 
> Can you share?


Hello, I am looking to throw to a 165-180" screen as well. Can you share what lens you used to correct the focus blur? Or a recommendation where to look? Thank you!


----------



## spexman

jxhopper said:


> Hello, I am looking to throw to a 165-180" screen as well. Can you share what lens you used to correct the focus blur? Or a recommendation where to look? Thank you!


Sent you a PM


----------



## Va45638

spexman said:


> Sent you a PM


Can you share the lens information to me aswell


----------



## Va45638

@spexman Would be great if you can post the lens info public to stop having people asking you every time…


----------



## spexman

Va45638 said:


> @spexman Would be great if you can post the lens info public to stop having people asking you every time…


The lens info varies depending on screen size; it is not a one size fits all.....I do not want to bog down the forum on lens questions....for those interested, I am happy to discuss via PM--feel free to PM me...


----------



## genmus

Hello - I am new to all this technical jargon. I have bought the Polaris but have problems connecting my older Samsung HT-D6750W surround system to it. 
It is connected ( as with all my other previous TV's) with a HDMI cable. 
As soon as I turn it on the picture comes up on the Polaris but after ca. 5 seconds the screen goes blank. And that's it.
It means i have no chance to connect and setup the surround system.
I see a lot of talk about HDFury but I am not sure if buying one will help me - it is not cheap.
So I look forward to a little help - thank you


----------



## spexman

Sorry to hear about your troubles. Have you tried both of the HDMI inputs to see if that may help? Also, maybe try a different HDMI cable?


----------



## genmus

spexman said:


> Sorry to hear about your troubles. Have you tried both of the HDMI inputs to see if that may help? Also, maybe try a different HDMI cable?


Hi spexman - thank you but I had tried all this from the beginning. It does keep the first picture before I choose what to use and when I change to "video" it cuts off after two seconds - the video is "Pal" I can see, when it shuts down but not possible to change it. 
Maybe I can try to set it up on one of the old TV's and then move it over as it is but not sure if it will work :-(


----------



## spexman

ok, thanks--can you try setting the output of your Samsung to a different resolution/frame rate to see if it will sync to that?


----------



## genmus

spexman said:


> ok, thanks--can you try setting the output of your Samsung to a different resolution/frame rate to see if it will sync to that?


I have never tried, but will give it a test


----------



## spexman

genmus said:


> I have never tried, but will give it a test


Ok, good luck and keep us posted!


----------



## genmus

spexman said:


> Ok, good luck and keep us posted!


Thank you - I will tell you


----------



## genmus

genmus said:


> Thank you - I will tell you


Hello again spexman - greetings from Denmark - I tried different settings without any luck. Then I remembered I had a very old HDMI cable floathing around somewhere. I found it and suddenly I could see the settings at the Samsung without crashing. Weird! 
Everything correct set up but still no sound from the Polaris over HDMI cable. I then tried a new HDMI cable without seeing the screen but also with no luck. Also the fiber optic cable gave no luck - but it works on my old TV with any HDMI. Looks like I have to give up and spend money on a new sound system. 
Thank you for your help - I love your setup information which I use on the Polaris even though my white screen makes dark areas pretty bad. Not nearby as good as a TV but I suppose I have to live with that.


----------



## spexman

genmus said:


> Hello again spexman - greetings from Denmark - I tried different settings without any luck. Then I remembered I had a very old HDMI cable floathing around somewhere. I found it and suddenly I could see the settings at the Samsung without crashing. Weird!
> Everything correct set up but still no sound from the Polaris over HDMI cable. I then tried a new HDMI cable without seeing the screen but also with no luck. Also the fiber optic cable gave no luck - but it works on my old TV with any HDMI. Looks like I have to give up and spend money on a new sound system.
> Thank you for your help - I love your setup information which I use on the Polaris even though my white screen makes dark areas pretty bad. Not nearby as good as a TV but I suppose I have to live with that.


Greetings from Canada! Glad to hear you at least got the picture issue resolved. To troubleshoot the sound, I assume you went into the Polaris Audio Menu settings and fiddled around? There are also several Audio Menu Settings in the Samsung unit that you can adjust as well. If you want the sound going to the Polaris, make sure this item is turned ON:


----------



## genmus

Yes I already tried the things you mention but with no luck. I suppose the Samsung is too old for new systems. Or something else...
So I stop fiddling with this and will consider something new instead.
But again thank you - I follow your discussions here and learn a little all the time


----------



## spexman

genmus said:


> Yes I already tried the things you mention but with no luck. I suppose the Samsung is too old for new systems. Or something else...
> So I stop fiddling with this and will consider something new instead.
> But again thank you - I follow your discussions here and learn a little all the time


Ok, thanks; all the best with your quest for something new....glad the discussions are helpful!


----------



## genmus

spexman said:


> Ok, thanks; all the best with your quest for something new....glad the discussions are helpful!


Thank you - they are helpful - the discussions I mean. 
Another question now we are at it. 
Since I started with the Polaris I get very burning and irritated eyes which I haven't had before looking at my 7 years old 70" TV. I try to reduce the problem with a lot light in the living room. Is this normal? Or is it the screen? I don't have an ALR-screen because it is too expensive .


----------



## spexman

genmus said:


> Thank you - they are helpful - the discussions I mean.
> Another question now we are at it.
> Since I started with the Polaris I get very burning and irritated eyes which I haven't had before looking at my 7 years old 70" TV. I try to reduce the problem with a lot light in the living room. Is this normal? Or is it the screen? I don't have an ALR-screen because it is too expensive .


Burning and irritated eyes indicate dryness; when we look at screens, our blink rate drops and thus evaporation increases; this leads to dry eyes. It could be that your blink rate has decreased even more now that you are looking at a bigger screen....make sure you remember to keep blinking frequently, stay well hydrated, and use artificial tears(I keep a bottle beside every screen I use) if need be.


----------



## genmus

I have been searching on the net for more information - maybe the strong reflection from the screen is doing damage to the eyes - but I have found very little about it. I have already been using the artificial tears for some time and it does help even though the eyes still itches a little. Just a change from my 70" TV. Thanks.

Another question: Everybody is talking about ajusting HDR on the Polaris but it has not been possible for me to open this area on the Polaris - it is just grey and I don't know how make it "alive" so I can adjust this better quality. What do I need??


----------



## spexman

genmus said:


> I have been searching on the net for more information - maybe the strong reflection from the screen is doing damage to the eyes - but I have found very little about it. I have already been using the artificial tears for some time and it does help even though the eyes still itches a little. Just a change from my 70" TV. Thanks.
> 
> Another question: Everybody is talking about ajusting HDR on the Polaris but it has not been possible for me to open this area on the Polaris - it is just grey and I don't know how make it "alive" so I can adjust this better quality. What do I need??


There would be no harmful radiation reflecting from the screen to damage your eyes.

HDR becomes 'active' only when the projector is given an HDR source. So, you need to watch HDR material from an HDR source in order for it to 'ungrey' and become active.


----------



## genmus

spexman said:


> There would be no harmful radiation reflecting from the screen to damage your eyes.
> 
> HDR becomes 'active' only when the projector is given an HDR source. So, you need to watch HDR material from an HDR source in order for it to 'ungrey' and become active.


Ok that explains it - I really don't know when I am streaming any HDR movies from HBO or Netflix. 
You are fast  Thanks a lot


----------



## spexman

genmus said:


> Ok that explains it - I really don't know when I am streaming any HDR movies from HBO or Netflix.
> You are fast  Thanks a lot


The streaming service usually 'lists' all the attributes of the stream; it must list 'HDR' as a feature, else, the stream will not be HDR(your streaming box must be HDR ready too).


----------



## genmus

spexman said:


> The streaming service usually 'lists' all the attributes of the stream; it must list 'HDR' as a feature, else, the stream will not be HDR(your streaming box must be HDR ready too).


Yes I found out - learning new things all the way. 
I'm using two Nvidia Shield HDR 4K boxes - so it should be ok - but can't see which movies on HBO and Nexflix are HDR - maybe it doesn't have any importance anyway


----------



## spexman

genmus said:


> Yes I found out - learning new things all the way.
> I'm using two Nvidia Shield HDR 4K boxes - so it should be ok - but can't see which movies on HBO and Nexflix are HDR - maybe it doesn't have any importance anyway


Make sure your Shield is set to HDR in the resolution section; and I believe your subscription to Netflix must be the Premium one. This is a recent HBO link with HDR titles:





List of HBO Max 4k HDR Atmos Movies & Shows | HD Report







hd-report.com


----------



## genmus

spexman said:


> Make sure your Shield is set to HDR in the resolution section; and I believe your subscription to Netflix must be the Premium one. This is a recent HBO link with HDR titles:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> List of HBO Max 4k HDR Atmos Movies & Shows | HD Report
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hd-report.com


Thank you perfect - yes my shield boxes are automatically set up to HDR-10 and as soon as I setup one of the list of the movies you send me it comes up as HDR - and then I can adjust.
Only problem is your "color space 0-255" which I can't find anywhere.
But thank you very much for the explanations


----------



## spexman

genmus said:


> Thank you perfect - yes my shield boxes are automatically set up to HDR-10 and as soon as I setup one of the list of the movies you send me it comes up as HDR - and then I can adjust.
> Only problem is your "color space 0-255" which I can't find anywhere.
> But thank you very much for the explanations


Glad you are making progress! To change the 'Color Space', you must hit this button on the remote to bring up a small 'special' menu:








Once you enter this Menu screen, you will see that option.


----------



## genmus

Sorry I didn't see your message until today - been out of house. Thanks!. What does this Color Space do? 
And I am not very impressed by the black in the movies - it is almost gray not totally black like on modern TV's 
- I thought the picture quality was much better but when I look at the TV in the bed room I see a huge difference in quality. 
Is that what you have to live with when you have a projector?? A bigger picture but weaker quality ??


----------



## humax

genmus said:


> And I am not very impressed by the black in the movies - it is almost gray not totally black like on modern TV's





genmus said:


> Is that what you have to live with when you have a projector?? A bigger picture but weaker quality ??



Start reading the Fengmi T1 thread.


----------



## spexman

genmus said:


> Sorry I didn't see your message until today - been out of house. Thanks!. What does this Color Space do?
> And I am not very impressed by the black in the movies - it is almost gray not totally black like on modern TV's
> - I thought the picture quality was much better but when I look at the TV in the bed room I see a huge difference in quality.
> Is that what you have to live with when you have a projector?? A bigger picture but weaker quality ??


genmus, a lot of things need to come together to achieve a good picture, and yes, a deep black level is certainly one of them. The Polaris does not have a tremendous native contrast--it really is its one weak spot. To maximize it, one must ensure there is the least amount of ambient light on your screen as possible, preferably zero. IF you cannot eliminate ambient light, you must use a special ALR screen to help with black level. Remember, when we view a tv, we view light that is emitted from the tv; but from a projector, we view reflected light--that is why ambient light is so detrimental to it. The tv in your bedroom can achieve deeper blacks, but it cannot achieve the colour gamut combined with the sheer size that the Polaris provides.


----------



## genmus

Yes I was looking for ALR-screens in the beginning until I saw the price which easily is more expensive than the projector. 
I'm not rolling in money anymore as when I was still working, hehe, and think I have to live with the picture as it is. 
Using your setup is about the best I can achieve - there are a million ways to do it and after a fiddling a lot I ended up with your setup again. 
Thank you for that


----------



## genmus

humax said:


> Start reading the Fengmi T1 thread.


Thank you but many different ideas are confusing reading all that and right now I have the other projector to concentrate on. I really don't want to change it and hope for the best


----------



## spexman

genmus said:


> Yes I was looking for ALR-screens in the beginning until I saw the price which easily is more expensive than the projector.
> I'm not rolling in money anymore as when I was still working, hehe, and think I have to live with the picture as it is.
> Using your setup is about the best I can achieve - there are a million ways to do it and after a fiddling a lot I ended up with your setup again.
> Thank you for that


Glad I can be of help to you genmus...hope you enjoy your projector going forward.


----------



## JackB

genmus said:


> Thank you but many different ideas are confusing reading all that and right now I have the other projector to concentrate on. I really don't want to change it and hope for the best


Have you dialed in the detailed settings posted by two of our owners who calibrated their projectors? If you haven't then find those and try them out. They will definitely improve the contrast if you haven't used them. Also, don't make the mistake I may have made. Make sure you turn "Actuator On". It comes from the factory turned off. That is the command to have the projector produce 4K.


----------



## genmus

spexman said:


> Glad I can be of help to you genmus...hope you enjoy your projector going forward.


Thank you spexman - you have been a big help - I am now waiting for you an others to bring more qualified information about the Polaris which I can use


----------



## genmus

JackB said:


> Have you dialed in the detailed settings posted by two of our owners who calibrated their projectors? If you haven't then find those and try them out. They will definitely improve the contrast if you haven't used them. Also, don't make the mistake I may have made. Make sure you turn "Actuator On". It comes from the factory turned off. That is the command to have the projector produce 4K.


Thanks Jack - yes I have tried both setups and found spexmans settings as the best so far. But of course waiting for more developments in the group. 
And thanks for the information about the Actuator - weird it is "off" from the factory.


----------



## SteverDooDa

Hello and thank you to all for the great tips and settings for the Bomaker Polaris 4k. 
I bought my Polaris 4k at the end of December 2021 and I finally have everything mounted. I bought a 135" accustically transparent screen so I can put the speakers behind the screen. The screen is great, however the projector is not so great. I have my projector mounted in the ceiling as my ceiling height is only 6'11". I find my bottom 2 corners blurry but the top corners are sharp. I have spent along time trying to line up and keystone aline the projector to the best i could. It is ashame that they do not provide any focus control or internal keystone adjustment. 
I did however find a link on what the actuator does. I have provoded a link below if anyone is interested. 









Bomaker: The Latest Review of Polaris 4K UST Projector | Milled


Milled has emails from Bomaker, including new arrivals, sales, discounts, and coupon codes.



milled.com


----------



## Calibrate This

SteverDooDa said:


> Hello and thank you to all for the great tips and settings for the Bomaker Polaris 4k.
> I bought my Polaris 4k at the end of December 2021 and I finally have everything mounted. I bought a 135" accustically transparent screen so I can put the speakers behind the screen. The screen is great, however the projector is not so great. I have my projector mounted in the ceiling as my ceiling height is only 6'11". I find my bottom 2 corners blurry but the top corners are sharp. I have spent along time trying to line up and keystone aline the projector to the best i could. It is ashame that they do not provide any focus control or internal keystone adjustment.
> I did however find a link on what the actuator does. I have provoded a link below if anyone is interested.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bomaker: The Latest Review of Polaris 4K UST Projector | Milled
> 
> 
> Milled has emails from Bomaker, including new arrivals, sales, discounts, and coupon codes.
> 
> 
> 
> milled.com


Thank you for this - Do you have the link to the review video? The link in the article does not show the review video... Also the article says this option enable 4k pixel shift - I was under the impression that this projector had a native 4k display and didn't need need pixel shifting?


----------



## JackB

Calibrate This said:


> Thank you for this - Do you have the link to the review video? The link in the article does not show the review video... Also the article says this option enable 4k pixel shift - I was under the impression that this projector had a native 4k display and didn't need need pixel shifting?


It’s native 1080P and 4x shifts to get to 4K.


----------



## SteverDooDa

Calibrate This said:


> Thank you for this - Do you have the link to the review video? The link in the article does not show the review video... Also the article says this option enable 4k pixel shift - I was under the impression that this projector had a native 4k display and didn't need need pixel shifting?


Sorry I didnt realize the videos did not work. I just found that artical interesting because I too did not know what the actuator control was for as it was not mentioned in the manual. 
I did find the YouTube video on the review though. I will provide the link.


----------



## genmus

spexman said:


> Glad I can be of help to you genmus...hope you enjoy your projector going forward.


Hi spexman - 
Is it possible to download an app for the Polaris android which I can use to adjust the picture even better on my screen?? 
I remember in the old days you could use a program to tune up your TV. 
And also for gaming on the computer. 
Something which is not too complicated??


----------



## spexman

genmus said:


> Hi spexman -
> Is it possible to download an app for the Polaris android which I can use to adjust the picture even better on my screen??
> I remember in the old days you could use a program to tune up your TV.
> And also for gaming on the computer.
> Something which is not too complicated??


genmus, what are you looking to improve on? The Polaris has plenty of adjustable parameters to help you with that. If you want to improve upon HDR, adding an HDFury device is highly recommended.


----------



## genmus

spexman said:


> genmus, what are you looking to improve on? The Polaris has plenty of adjustable parameters to help you with that. If you want to improve upon HDR, adding an HDFury device is highly recommended.


It is exactly the far too many parameters which make life difficult for me and probably also for many others. 
Just look at your own settings. I suppose you have spent a lot of time to get the best possible picture for you.
Using your settings are much better than standard but there are areas like the human skin which is not correct - either too dark or too bright. Just one thing.
Most of the material I have or look at is not HDR - I have tried a little of this and a little of that but always end up with a bad picture. Too many combinations. And a HDFury costs a fortune.
I remember I had some programs for my old TV's which I could use to adjust - "reduce the brightness until you can only just see the picture" and so on. Such programs must exist - I actually thought you were using something like that


----------



## spexman

genmus said:


> It is exactly the far too many parameters which make life difficult for me and probably also for many others.
> Just look at your own settings. I suppose you have spent a lot of time to get the best possible picture for you.
> Using your settings are much better than standard but there are areas like the human skin which is not correct - either too dark or too bright. Just one thing.
> Most of the material I have or look at is not HDR - I have tried a little of this and a little of that but always end up with a bad picture. Too many combinations. And a HDFury costs a fortune.
> I remember I had some programs for my old TV's which I could use to adjust - "reduce the brightness until you can only just see the picture" and so on. Such programs must exist - I actually thought you were using something like that


genmus--I used discs with test patterns and actually free test patterns from this site:








AVS HD 709 - Blu-ray & MP4 Calibration


INTRODUCTION This project aims to provide a free set of calibration patterns for high definition (HD) video players. You will find downloads here to create discs for Blu-ray and AVCHD players, a version with MP4 video for computers or other compatible devices, and a Patterns Manual with some...




www.avsforum.com




I also used a probe for accuracy, but some settings can be done without one.
After calibrating several projectors with a probe, I have been very satisfied with the results and from there on, spend very little time playing with the adjustments as the picture looks fantastic(as do skin tones) post calibration.


----------



## genmus

Thank you - I have downloaded the program and now trying to sort it out.
Which probe do you use?? 
I can see Spyder X is very popular and not too expensive


----------



## spexman

genmus said:


> Thank you - I have downloaded the program and now trying to sort it out.
> Which probe do you use??
> I can see Spyder X is very popular and not too expensive


Yes, this probe would be just fine.


----------



## genmus

Thanks - I found a brand new SpyderX Elite (which should be better) in Germany at almost half price compared to Denmark. 
So now I have to wait 5-10 days on German posting - very exciting - looking forward to a perfect setup for my screen


----------



## spexman

genmus said:


> Thanks - I found a brand new SpyderX Elite (which should be better) in Germany at almost half price compared to Denmark.
> So now I have to wait 5-10 days on German posting - very exciting - looking forward to a perfect setup for my screen


Fantastic--all the best with achieving the perfect picture!


----------



## Geronimo11

hello spexman, I would like to know if the optical lens that you use with the bomaker could work with my formovie C2 which also has problems with sharpness at the top of the image? Cordially


----------



## spexman

Geronimo11 said:


> hello spexman, I would like to know if the optical lens that you use with the bomaker could work with my formovie C2 which also has problems with sharpness at the top of the image? Cordially


Hello Geronimo11....that is a good and interesting question....it might just be possible--let me do some research and I will get back to you via PM.


----------



## Geronimo11

spexman said:


> Hello Geronimo11....that is a good and interesting question....it might just be possible--let me do some research and I will get back to you via PM.


Ok,thank you,spexman


----------



## genmus

spexman said:


> Fantastic--all the best with achieving the perfect picture!


Hi Spexman - sorry to bother you again

I received the SpyderX Elite today and calibrated a couple of computer screens with luck - but when I came to my Polaris I got stuck because I found no explanation how to do it in the manual. 

I understand setting up the spyderX on a tripod but how do I connect it to the Polaris with software? 

I know it is an Android and maybe there is a program to download and run on the Polaris - looking at Google Play there are several programs called something like "datacolor" - but which one is the right one? And if this can run on the old Android on the Polaris then I suppose I just connect the SpyderX to the Polaris USB or what??!

Is this the right way or do you download a file from the USB or something like that ?? I suppose the SpyderX has to be connected one way or the other.

And how do you calibrate a normal TV screen which has no Android? Same question again, sorry


----------



## spexman

genmus said:


> Hi Spexman - sorry to bother you again
> 
> I received the SpyderX Elite today and calibrated a couple of computer screens with luck - but when I came to my Polaris I got stuck because I found no explanation how to do it in the manual.
> 
> I understand setting up the spyderX on a tripod but how do I connect it to the Polaris with software?
> 
> I know it is an Android and maybe there is a program to download and run on the Polaris - looking at Google Play there are several programs called something like "datacolor" - but which one is the right one? And if this can run on the old Android on the Polaris then I suppose I just connect the SpyderX to the Polaris USB or what??!
> 
> Is this the right way or do you download a file from the USB or something like that ?? I suppose the SpyderX has to be connected one way or the other.
> 
> And how do you calibrate a normal TV screen which has no Android? Same question again, sorry


I use this software:








hcfr


Download hcfr for free. Free Video Projector/Monitor Calibration Software. Video Projector/Monitor Calibration Software orginally developed as ColorHCFR. This code base is based off version 2.1 and will aim for a more open development process.




sourceforge.net




It is very easy to use and is free...it should detect your spyderX and you should be good to go.


----------



## genmus

spexman said:


> I use this software:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hcfr
> 
> 
> Download hcfr for free. Free Video Projector/Monitor Calibration Software. Video Projector/Monitor Calibration Software orginally developed as ColorHCFR. This code base is based off version 2.1 and will aim for a more open development process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sourceforge.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is very easy to use and is free...it should detect your spyderX and you should be good to go.


OK thank you - but I can't find any hcfr android program to download at the Polaris.

Is it a way to do it if I install Hcfr on the computer and connect this to the Polaris via HDMI and the SpyderX to the Polaris USB or do I have to connect the SpyderX to the computer?? I'm confused, sorry


----------



## spexman

genmus said:


> OK thank you - but I can't find any hcfr android program to download at the Polaris.
> 
> Is it a way to do it if I install Hcfr on the computer and connect this to the Polaris via HDMI and the SpyderX to the Polaris USB or do I have to connect the SpyderX to the computer?? I'm confused, sorry


The SpyderX is connected to your computer via USB. Once you load up the HCFR software, HCFR should recognize the SpyderX. Put up your test patterns using a separate player connected to the Polaris, and calibrate!


----------



## genmus

I wish there were a simpel explanation somewhere which in simple terms explains all the details - when you are a beginner like me nothing is straight forward.

I am sorry I bother you with these questions which of course are very simple to you.

So - as I understand it - it is not possible to connect the Polaris to the SpyderX so it can be calibrated in an automatic way like when you calibrate a computer screen?? So you have to write down all the settings which are not the same as the controls on the Polaris?

Which testpatterns are you talking about - I can se it is possible to download different test patterns but which one is the best??

A separate player - another computer? Using a USB-stick with the patterns on? Or bluetooth running it on a phone?
I am really confused


----------



## spexman

No worries...let's do this an easier way....hook up your laptop or desktop to the Polaris via HDMI and have the Polaris as your main screen/monitor(so it essentially becomes your computer monitor). Then, run the the SpyderX software(I assume this is what you used to calibrate your monitors) the way you did to calibrate your monitors. If you had luck calibrating your monitors, then simply make the Polaris another monitor by connecting it via HDMI to your computer/laptop and calilbrate the same way.


----------



## JackB

spexman said:


> The SpyderX is connected to your computer via USB. Once you load up the HCFR software, HCFR should recognize the SpyderX. Put up your test patterns using a separate player connected to the Polaris, and calibrate!


Spexman,

Can the test patterns come from a blue ray player using a DVE or WOW disc? If so, I might give HCFR a try. I have a Spyder 5 I bought and have never used it.


----------



## spexman

Sure, the test patterns can come from any player/any disc or even files....I used the Sony X700 and the Spears and Munsil disc plus some test patterns free from the AVS site on a USB drive. I recommend using Rec2020 patterns though, as the Polaris maps Rec709 to Rec2020.(beyond which, Rec2020 material brings out the best in the Polaris!) Bottom line, you can use whatever patterns/player you wish with HCFR.


----------



## xrayg1971

Calibrate This said:


> Thank you for this - Do you have the link to the review video? The link in the article does not show the review video... Also the article says this option enable 4k pixel shift - I was under the impression that this projector had a native 4k display and didn't need need pixel shifting?


correction---this is native 4k and the actuator is used when up converting 1080p & SDR content to 4k .. this was confirmed 100%accurate


----------



## xrayg1971

JackB said:


> It’s native 1080P and 4x shifts to get to 4K.


correction---this is native 4k and the actuator is used when up converting 1080p & SDR content to 4k .. this was confirmed 100%accurate


----------



## xrayg1971

ive looked and researched many ust projectors and i think im gonna take the plung with this one ... love the fact that it has 3 lasers, i dont care about the speakers as this will run through my av receiver ..I am concerned with no hdmi 2.1 but i think you guys said there is a solution for that ( hdfury i think , but i dont know what that will do for me , need to look into that more) ..
the lumens i wish were higher but for the price i cant find a tri laser projector that can match it ... it was either this or a 86 qled and i really want 100-120 inches ... 

speaking of that .. i can only find decent deals in 100 inch ust alr/clr screens ... anyone know of any good inexpensive 120 models (600 and under )


----------



## valdis.l

Hi all,

Finaly had some time to do upgrade to Polaris 4k - BeQuiet 92mm Pure Wings silent fans. However - after opening projector i found out that thry have different type of connector, small one vs “standard” used on computers. Will need adapter to fit new fans.

For those who might be interested - here are pictures of “what’s inside” 











Album here Polaris 4K

Enjoy


----------



## spexman

valdis.l said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Finaly had some time to do upgrade to Polaris 4k - BeQuiet 92mm Pure Wings silent fans. However - after opening projector i found out that thry have different type of connector, small one vs “standard” used on computers. Will need adapter to fit new fans.
> 
> For those who might be interested - here are pictures of “what’s inside”
> 
> View attachment 3259016
> 
> 
> 
> Album here Polaris 4K
> 
> Enjoy


Awesome work!!! Thank you for sharing!


----------



## JackB

valdis.l said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Finaly had some time to do upgrade to Polaris 4k - BeQuiet 92mm Pure Wings silent fans. However - after opening projector i found out that thry have different type of connector, small one vs “standard” used on computers. Will need adapter to fit new fans.
> 
> For those who might be interested - here are pictures of “what’s inside”
> 
> View attachment 3259016
> 
> 
> 
> Album here Polaris 4K
> 
> Enjoy


Could you look to see if there is some type of focus adjustment device near the lens. Like a screw.


----------



## xrayg1971

well took the plunge .. ordered the polaris ...it was either that or the hisense l5f 120 , chose polaris because of the 3 lasers, got an extended 4 year warrantee also incase this thing craps out. will be using the research from here to adjust the sdr and hdr settings ... ended up getting the vava 100 inch clr ust screen as well .. will send some pics when i get it and its set up


----------



## valdis.l

JackB said:


> Could you look to see if there is some type of focus adjustment device near the lens. Like a screw.


Next week will take it apart once more, will take a look !


----------



## phchrono

valdis.l said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Finaly had some time to do upgrade to Polaris 4k - BeQuiet 92mm Pure Wings silent fans. However - after opening projector i found out that thry have different type of connector, small one vs “standard” used on computers. Will need adapter to fit new fans.
> 
> For those who might be interested - here are pictures of “what’s inside”
> 
> View attachment 3259016
> 
> 
> 
> Album here Polaris 4K
> 
> Enjoy


Why change the fans when it is already very quiet? 
Have you lowered the noise level yet again? 
In any case, it is very clean once the hood is open. 
Thanks


----------



## xrayg1971

polaris box picture -- do any of you have a picture of the box the projector came / comes in .--- think i have a porch pirate and wanted to see what the actual box looks like and compare what i have on video


----------



## xrayg1971

altron3k said:


> Hi guys, So some updates. i was able to claw back/return my original bomaker polaris (bought in jan '21) as bomaker would NOT reply or return calls.. I ordered a replacement Polaris 4k on walmart and i have some insights for you guys... first off, The shipping box is totally different - plainer, less flashy box (also no ROKU stick included). the throw distance/angle has DEFINITELY been updated and or changed. my original custom made stand was positioned and setup perfectly for the first projector is now COMPLETELY off for the newer walmart bomaker (i actually had to saw .5inch off the stand). anecdotally with the old projector i'd often shoot myself in the face while shifting speakers/projector- the new one much less so- definitely has a steeper shooting angle. Focus of the new projector on my 120 ALR screen is definitely softer than previous model (new ones right hand corner/side is pretty blurry). Perhaps the old lens/optics focus were set to 110-120in . The strange distortion/errors i had are gone - however as mentioned by someone early in thread i can see similar looking faint distortions fanning out from the center on extremely bright scenes. (screen and projector glass all cleaned) this further leads me to think their reflecting optics/mirror may have flaws/distortions causing these issues. Color settings came in WEIRDLY tuned and the values were not 50'd out like original- but also were NOT the values tuned here in our thread.
> the glass element also didnt come with a plastic peel away cover (not sure if any of yours did)
> i have a few months to keep checking but I am seriously considering a VAVA chroma via kickstarter, however the lack of protection plan availability worries me... hope this helps !


do you have a pick of the walmart version box it came in ... ?


----------



## ConnorsDad

xrayg1971 said:


> do you have a pick of the walmart version box it came in ... ?


----------



## ConnorsDad

That's the box that mine came in. Ordered and delivered from Walmart in January.


----------



## xrayg1971

thanks much , appreciate it


----------



## jonathan777

IanLaurie said:


> Okay here you go, my final settings for both HDR and SDR
> 
> SDR:
> Brightness 48
> Contrast 41
> Saturation 38
> Sharpness 0
> Gamma standard
> Color temp hot
> Color adjustment
> Red tone 45
> Red saturation 52
> Red brightness 50
> Green tone 50
> Green sat 50
> Green bright 50
> Blue tone 50
> Blue sat 49
> Blue bright 50
> Cyan tone 72
> Cyan sat 64
> Cyan bright 50
> Magenta tone 34
> Magenta sat 59
> Magenta bright 50
> Yellow tone 60
> Yellow sat 50
> Yellow bright 58
> Skin tone 65
> Skin sat 50
> Skin bright 70
> 
> HDR
> Bright 50
> Contrast 45
> Saturation 46
> Sharpness 0
> Color temp hot
> Color adjustments:
> All same as above
> 
> hdr medium
> 
> you will want to adjust the brightness and contrast settings according to your set up but this should put you in the ballpark. The colours are really really good with these Color adjustments though.


Thanks for this! This was a great starting point for me! However, when I plugged the projector back in, all the settings were lost. How do you save the settings? Sorry, if this is a dumb question.


----------



## spexman

This is not a dumb question--the truth is, the settings in the USER tab ARE saved automatically, even if you unplug and plug the projector back in. Perhaps try again.


----------



## jonathan777

Thank you!



spexman said:


> This is not a dumb question--the truth is, the settings in the USER tab ARE saved automatically, even if you unplug and plug the projector back in. Perhaps try again.


[QUOTE="spexman, post: 61375944, member:


----------



## jonathan777

So I bought this new on eBay for only 1100 and I’m loving it so far. I upgraded from an older ultra short throw projector by LG. This is definitely a major upgrade for me. The brightness is incredible compared to my other projector. I do wish that it would’ve had HDMI 2.1. But considering that my new but used receiver is only a 2.0, I don’t see how that would’ve helped anything, at least for now. I did read something about HDMI 2.1 converters, but I don’t see how that would help if my receiver doesn’t support anyway, right? Or am I missing something? But I think it’s a great projector, especially for the price that I bought it for. I’m amazed at the colors. After adjusting the image I just think it’s incredible. Hoping to upgrade to ultra HD Blu-ray player as well. I collect a lot of Criterion films(now offered in 4k), so I’m excited to watch them on here.


----------



## JackB

Amazing price. Do they have any more?


----------



## lattiboy

JackB said:


> Amazing price. Do they have any more?


I sold mine for $1200 locally and that took almost a month. Just watch eBay for new listings and I’m sure you can score one for around that price or lower.


----------



## PeterL111

Hi all. Am a new member and purchased a Polaris last year. Mine recently have a stuck/dead pixel. Contacting with the company through their customer service e-mail has been slow. After several days, I get this disappointing response as follow: 

“Hi,

Thank you for your reply.

Sorry for not bringing you a pleasant experience. 

As an apology,We are willing to compensate you $100 and I have applied an exclusive coupon for you.

…

If you have better suggestions, please let know and we will solve the problem based on your suggestion.

Thanks for your understanding.

Best”

I kept asking for a repair, but so far, they have turned silent. This is no where near the hassle-free repair service mentioned on their website. Any suggestion what I should do next?

thank you.


----------



## jakechoy

PeterL111 said:


> Hi all. Am a new member and purchased a Polaris last year. Mine recently have a stuck/dead pixel. Contacting with the company through their customer service e-mail has been slow. After several days, I get this disappointing response as follow:
> 
> “Hi,
> 
> Thank you for your reply.
> 
> Sorry for not bringing you a pleasant experience.
> 
> As an apology,We are willing to compensate you $100 and I have applied an exclusive coupon for you.
> 
> …
> 
> If you have better suggestions, please let know and we will solve the problem based on your suggestion.
> 
> Thanks for your understanding.
> 
> Best”
> 
> I kept asking for a repair, but so far, they have turned silent. This is no where near the hassle-free repair service mentioned on their website. Any suggestion what I should do next?
> 
> thank you.
> View attachment 3267558
> 
> View attachment 3267559


that's not cool at all. $100 credit doesn't fix the issue.


----------



## humax

PeterL111 said:


> I kept asking for a repair, but so far, they have turned silent.



Stuck micro-mirrors can only be fixed via DMD replacement or a unit exchange. It is a tricky situation and even major projector companies do not bother with solving such problems. I am afraid you are going to have to get used to seeing it, unless you can find your own technician to replace the DMD chip. Even if you do, it won't be cheap.


----------



## spexman

Really sorry to hear about your stuck mirror....I really hope they take care of you, as even currently on the Polaris webpage, it states:


----------



## eliago

Hello everyone!
I just got by Bomaker Polaris today, and as much as I love the image, the contrast of the blacks leaves something to be desired. I am yet to install the ALR screen (I am getting the Vava LTS005 tomorrow)
My question is: Will the Xiaomi cinema 2 be a significant upgrade over the Bomaker as far as blacks contrast? I do prefer a plug-and-play type solution without having to mess with the settings too much every time like I understand you need to do with the Fengmi T1. Or maybe should I just wait for the screen before returning the Polaris and pulling the plug on a new projector?
Appreciate your input!


----------



## humax

eliago said:


> Hello everyone!
> I just got by Bomaker Polaris today, and as much as I love the image, the contrast of the blacks leaves something to be desired. I am yet to install the ALR screen (I am getting the Vava LTS005 tomorrow)
> My question is: Will the Xiaomi cinema 2 be a significant upgrade over the Bomaker as far as blacks contrast? I do prefer a plug-and-play type solution without having to mess with the settings too much every time like I understand you need to do with the Fengmi T1. Or maybe should I just wait for the screen before returning the Polaris and pulling the plug on a new projector?
> Appreciate your input!



Yes, the Xiaomi C2 will have better contrast and black levels, but will lack the WCG of the Polaris. Fengmi T1 is the direct equivalent of the Polaris in terms of ALPD models. As for the addition of an ALR screen, it won't make much difference contrast-wise. No screen can make grey look black, if there is not a decent contrast to work on. Its main mission is minimizing losses of innate projector contrast caused by room reflections, not create contrast that is not there in the first place.


----------



## spexman

eliago said:


> Hello everyone!
> I just got by Bomaker Polaris today, and as much as I love the image, the contrast of the blacks leaves something to be desired. I am yet to install the ALR screen (I am getting the Vava LTS005 tomorrow)
> My question is: Will the Xiaomi cinema 2 be a significant upgrade over the Bomaker as far as blacks contrast? I do prefer a plug-and-play type solution without having to mess with the settings too much every time like I understand you need to do with the Fengmi T1. Or maybe should I just wait for the screen before returning the Polaris and pulling the plug on a new projector?
> Appreciate your input!


Congrats on your purchase, even if it may be short lived. I would agree with humax that blacks is the Polaris' overall weak spot, there is no question about that. However, with the proper calibrated settings, and High Dynamic laser dimming set, the blacks are helped quite a bit. It appears that the blacks are on par with the tri-laser offerings from Hisense.(as this is a Hisense clone). With that in mind, the Polaris gives an absolutely breath taking image MOST of the time, with rich, accurate full colour coverage, no laser speckle, no noise, etc...just a really smooth, solid, sharp, vibrant image. After calibrating it, my settings have not changed one bit; it is set it and forget it--scenes look consistently beautiful....it is just the very low APL scenes that, yes, could use improvement. 
...and again, in terms of the screen, I agree with humax--he is correct in stating that a screen will NOT improve contrast(unless there is ambient light); yes, a screen with gain under 1 can improve the black level, but NOT the contrast.
Hope this helps.


----------



## eliago

Thank you humax and spexman for your responses!
I will give it another chance. Maybe I can live with the blacks as otherwise, the image is really beautiful. I also got the 3-year warranty from Walmart which gives me peace of mind. I am used to the LG OLED contrast which spoiled me haha. I will calibrate the settings to yours and post an update.


----------



## humax

eliago said:


> Thank you humax and spexman for your responses!
> I will give it another chance. Maybe I can live with the blacks as otherwise, the image is really beautiful. I also got the 3-year warranty from Walmart which gives me peace of mind. I am used to the LG OLED contrast which spoiled me haha. I will calibrate the settings to yours and post an update.



You are welcome! As for the rest, whatever works for you. I love DLP technology and I have always owned DLP projectors, but the greyness in blacks is what ruins it for me. Whenever I see a JVC model in action, I always get a bit frustrated and say why can't I have such contrast performance of my own. It is the thing that is always missing and it makes you wonder why keep buying DLP, if no-one has really bother to fix it for the past 20 years. ALPD is a big improvement, but it is not enough. We need dual DMD units at a reasonable price ASAP.


----------



## spexman

eliago said:


> Thank you humax and spexman for your responses!
> I will give it another chance. Maybe I can live with the blacks as otherwise, the image is really beautiful. I also got the 3-year warranty from Walmart which gives me peace of mind. I am used to the LG OLED contrast which spoiled me haha. I will calibrate the settings to yours and post an update.


Yes, you are welcome....let us know how things work out for you....humax--would be nice to get those JVC blacks for sure in our DLP units!(would literally be a dream come true!)


----------



## jonathan777

JackB said:


> Amazing price. Do they have any more?


No. A store had just 5 new units. Couldn’t pass up that low price!


----------



## jonathan777

JackB said:


> Amazing price. Do they have any more?


Sadly, no. The storefront only had 5 available, brand new too. Couldn’t pass up on that price!


----------



## spexman

Crap I broke it again said:


> Interesting. What content did you use to produce the 10 and 12 bit signals? I will try to recreate it.
> 
> I haven't tried the hdfury dolbyvision workaround yet, but I just got a new integral2 today so I will give it a shot.


*8/10/12 Bit Signals*
Sorry it has taken me this long to report back to you in terms of seeing 10bit and 12bit signals being reported by the Polaris.
So, it appears the Polaris(and virtually all other displays) will report LLDV(and 12 bit 4:2:2 output from the Shield) as 8 bit. See this post for the explanation: Formovie Fengmi T1
Below is an example of LLDV output from the Shield:








So, we see that 8 bit color depth reported(along with 24Hz frame rate, and 4:2:2 chroma subsampling).
I am using the Arcana, and apart from it allowing beautiful dynamically tone mapped Dolby Vision material to be viewed, it also reports information about the signal that it is transmitting. Here is the info it reports for the above signal:








So, it reports that 24(23.97)Hz frame rate and the 4:2:2 subsampling. Notice too that it reports the TRUE 12 bit colour depth value.(it also let's us know the Colour Space of BT2020--this is very helpful as it is expedient to always feed the Polaris BT2020 signals for accurate colour rendition). So, rest assured, that although the Polaris is reporting 8 as the bit depth, it is truly 12.

Ok, so, I did mention that I have seen 10 bit and 12 bit reported....here they are.

*10 bit*--from my '4K cable box'









and the Arcana reports:








The Arcana is reporting the exact same parameters, and luckily for me, that BT2020 colour space...watching hockey this way has never been so amazing!

*12 bit*--from the Sony X700 UHD player









And again, confirmation from the Arcana:









So yes, rest assured, the Polaris accepts and processes 10 bit and 12 bit video.....and beautifully at that.


----------



## spexman

*Tips from the T1 Thread*

A big shout out to all the enthusiasts contributing to the T1 thread--the T1 is a special projector and has created a lot of worthy buzz. I have been closely following the T1 thread, and many excellent insights have been learned. The main ones have to do with achieving optimal tone mapping, and several 'torture scenes' have come up to help achieve optimal results. By seeing the excellent output of the T1, one can also try to tweak their projector to achieve similar results. Three such scenes caught my eye(and once again, a caveat--what you see in photos is not what you see live, as much is lost/changed as it goes to the camera and then to your viewing screens--however, for illustrative purposes, as you will see, the point gets across with these photos):

*1)The Witcher scene(Dolby Vision)*

The following scene is very helpful as the ability to see the fine freckles on the face of the Elf Queen(sorry if I got her name wrong, as I do not watch this series) depends on the quality of the tone mapping.
















The first photo is the T1 and it nicely shows the myriad of freckles in the face of the queen...this was achieved using an HD Fury device set very carefully. The second photo is from the Polaris, using the Arcana(the entry level HD Fury device)--again, set very carefully to preserve those fine detailed freckles. Anyone looking to test the effectiveness of their HDR tone mapping would be wise to run this scene and ensure those freckles are not 'blown out'.

*2)The Horse Snow scene(Dolby Vision)*

This is a well known scene from a very well known calibration disc. This perhaps is THE torture test, as it contains bright whites and black shadow details--quite a range. The goal is to tone map such that one does not blow out the white details and not crush the black details. 















Once again, the T1 shot is first. When I first saw this posted, I was incredibly impressed by its rendering. It is superb. This gave me the motivation to tweak as best as possible to attempt to achieve similar results. White balance issue aside(camera artifact), I was able to tune the Polaris to achieve a similar rendering, again, using the Arcana. Now, in case anyone is still questioning the value of the HD Fury devices when it comes to perfecting HDR tonemapping on their Polaris, here is the HDR10 rendering of the same scene, using ONLY the Polaris' internal tone mapping:








It is very easy to see the loss of both black and white detail if one relies solely on the Polaris to do the tone mapping. Bottom line--the Polaris deserves/needs an HD Fury device!

*3)The Black Well scene(Dolby Vision)*

This scene is able to help one set the tone mapping such that black shadow detail is preserved--now, a lot has to do with camera settings in the example below-(I reckon the T1 is slightly overexposed and the Polaris is underexposed):















Again, T1 is first, then the Polaris. Shadow detail in the well is visible in both shots, more so in the T1, though again, this is likely from camera exposure differences. The point here is not to compare, but to show that with proper HD Fury settings, we indeed get nice preservation of shadow details on both projectors.

To recap, a big thank you to the T1 enthusiasts for bringing these scenes to light, and for the hours of tweaking they are doing for our benefit. It is VERY hard to beat the imagery produced by properly tone mapped, 4k Tri-laser projectors. And this is best achieved with the addition of an HD Fury device. As I have mentioned before, the Polaris plus the Arcana produces an immensely pleasing theatrical experience.

*Addendum--one more tip from the T1 thread!*

Many in theT1 thread are big Roku fans and use the Roku Ultra as their primary streamer. I was not familiar with this streamer, but, the price is so low/attainable, I just had to take their advice and take the plunge. After setting it up, I then set off to do some comparos to the other two devices I use to stream--the Sony X700 and the Shield Pro.

*1)Netflix Dolby Vision Elf Queen scene Comparo*
Here they are, X700/Shield/Roku in that order:






















The differences in exposure are just that--it is a camera artifact. The truth is, the difference between them in real life, on the projector itself, are minimal. You would be hard pressed to pick one over the other. I truly was impressed with the output of the Roku, considering it is a fraction of the price of the other two devices.

*2)The Black Well scene(Dolby Vision)(Aladdin, Disney)*
As the X700 cannot stream Disney, the comparo is Shield/Roku:















Once again, output is VERY similar.
and one last one

*3)Panoramic scene, Dolby Vision, Aladdin, Disney*
Shield/Roku:















And, as noted in the above 2 examples, this scene is also produced virtually identically between the two streamers. Again I can attest that in person, I simply could not tell the difference between these two streamers on Disney Dolby Vision material.
And so, the Roku represents a sensational value. One other bonus that it has is its ability to send every/any source out as Dolby Vision, thus allowing fine tweaking of tone mapping with the Arcana. The Shield does not have that feature(the X700 does, but has very limited streaming capabilities). However, on both Netflix and Disney, the Roku cannot output 24Hz--it outputs at 60Hz--the Shield can output both Netflix and Disney at 24Hz) Bottom line, anyone looking for excellent quality 4K Dolby Vision output at a very affordable price, the Roku is your ticket!

For those interested, my optimal* LLDV* *Arcana settings with the Polaris* on all 3 devices(X700/Shield/Roku) is as follows:
*PRIMARIES) REC2020
MIN LUMINANCE) 0 nits
MAX LUMINANCE) 150 nits*


----------



## arsenalfc89

spexman said:


> *Tips from the T1 Thread*
> 
> A big shout out to all the enthusiasts contributing to the T1 thread--the T1 is a special projector and has created a lot of worthy buzz. I have been closely following the T1 thread, and many excellent insights have been learned. The main ones have to do with achieving optimal tone mapping, and several 'torture scenes' have come up to help achieve optimal results. By seeing the excellent output of the T1, one can also try to tweak their projector to achieve similar results. Three such scenes caught my eye(and once again, a caveat--what you see in photos is not what you see live, as much is lost/changed as it goes to the camera and then to your viewing screens--however, for illustrative purposes, as you will see, the point gets across with these photos):
> 
> *1)The Witcher scene(Dolby Vision)*
> 
> The following scene is very helpful as the ability to see the fine freckles on the face of the Elf Queen(sorry if I got her name wrong, as I do not watch this series) depends on the quality of the tone mapping.
> View attachment 3272425
> View attachment 3272416
> 
> 
> The first photo is the T1 and it nicely shows the myriad of freckles in the face of the queen...this was achieved using an HD Fury device set very carefully. The second photo is from the Polaris, using the Arcana(the entry level HD Fury device)--again, set very carefully to preserve those fine detailed freckles. Anyone looking to test the effectiveness of their HDR tone mapping would be wise to run this scene and ensure those freckles are not 'blown out'.
> 
> *2)The Horse Snow scene(Dolby Vision)*
> 
> This is a well known scene from a very well known calibration disc. This perhaps is THE torture test, as it contains bright whites and black shadow details--quite a range. The goal is to tone map such that one does not blow out the white details and not crush the black details.
> View attachment 3272428
> View attachment 3272430
> 
> Once again, the T1 shot is first. When I first saw this posted, I was incredibly impressed by its rendering. It is superb. This gave me the motivation to tweak as best as possible to attempt to achieve similar results. White balance issue aside(camera artifact), I was able to tune the Polaris to achieve a similar rendering, again, using the Arcana. Now, in case anyone is still questioning the value of the HD Fury devices when it comes to perfecting HDR tonemapping on their Polaris, here is the HDR10 rendering of the same scene, using ONLY the Polaris' internal tone mapping:
> View attachment 3272431
> 
> It is very easy to see the loss of both black and white detail if one relies solely on the Polaris to do the tone mapping. Bottom line--the Polaris deserves/needs an HD Fury device!
> 
> *3)The Black Well scene(Dolby Vision)*
> 
> This scene is able to help one set the tone mapping such that black shadow detail is preserved--now, a lot has to do with camera settings in the example below-(I reckon the T1 is slightly overexposed and the Polaris is underexposed):
> View attachment 3272432
> View attachment 3272433
> 
> Again, T1 is first, then the Polaris. Shadow detail in the well is visible in both shots, more so in the T1, though again, this is likely from camera exposure differences. The point here is not to compare, but to show that with proper HD Fury settings, we indeed get nice preservation of shadow details on both projectors.
> 
> To recap, a big thank you to the T1 enthusiasts for bringing these scenes to light, and for the hours of tweaking they are doing for our benefit. It is VERY hard to beat the imagery produced by properly tone mapped, 4k Tri-laser projectors. And this is best achieved with the addition of an HD Fury device. As I have mentioned before, the Polaris plus the Arcana produces an immensely pleasing theatrical experience.
> 
> *Addendum--one more tip from the T1 thread!*
> 
> Many in theT1 thread are big Roku fans and use the Roku Ultra as their primary streamer. I was not familiar with this streamer, but, the price is so low/attainable, I just had to take their advice and take the plunge. After setting it up, I then set off to do some comparos to the other two devices I use to stream--the Sony X700 and the Shield Pro.
> 
> *1)Netflix Dolby Vision Elf Queen scene Comparo*
> Here they are, X700/Shield/Roku in that order:
> View attachment 3272447
> View attachment 3272448
> View attachment 3272449
> 
> The differences in exposure are just that--it is a camera artifact. The truth is, the difference between them in real life, on the projector itself, are minimal. You would be hard pressed to pick one over the other. I truly was impressed with the output of the Roku, considering it is a fraction of the price of the other two devices.
> 
> *2)The Black Well scene(Dolby Vision)(Aladdin, Disney)*
> As the X700 cannot stream Disney, the comparo is Shield/Roku:
> View attachment 3272450
> View attachment 3272451
> 
> Once again, output is VERY similar.
> and one last one
> 
> *3)Panoramic scene, Dolby Vision, Aladdin, Disney*
> Shield/Roku:
> View attachment 3272456
> View attachment 3272460
> 
> And, as noted in the above 2 examples, this scene is also produced virtually identically between the two streamers. Again I can attest that in person, I simply could not tell the difference between these two streamers on Disney Dolby Vision material.
> And so, the Roku represents a sensational value. One other bonus that it has is its ability to send every/any source out as Dolby Vision, thus allowing fine tweaking of tone mapping with the Arcana. The Shield does not have that feature(the X700 does, but has very limited streaming capabilities). However, on both Netflix and Disney, the Roku cannot output 24Hz--it outputs at 60Hz--the Shield can output both Netflix and Disney at 24Hz) Bottom line, anyone looking for excellent quality 4K Dolby Vision output at a very affordable price, the Roku is your ticket!
> 
> For those interested, my optimal* LLDV* *Arcana settings with the Polaris* on all 3 devices(X700/Shield/Roku) is as follows:
> *PRIMARIES) REC2020
> MIN LUMINANCE) 0 nits
> MAX LUMINANCE) 200 nits*


Great write up and observation. Similar conclusion I’ve mentioned to those who messaged me. The LLDV metadata using the HDFURY fixes the colors and tone mapping to the point it makes it very hard to tell projectors apart when using this device (unless the projector has a separate HDR setting). I highly suggest anyone getting an ALPD unit or similar unit to include this device as some of these projectors processing and colors are not good good without it.


----------



## JackB

So I guess the basic difference between the two projectors is the better black level and contrast done by the ALDP of the T1? Also, the T1 is brighter(much brighter?) while the Polaris may be easier to adjust due to four legs versus three on the T1.


----------



## ProFragger

JackB said:


> So I guess the basic difference between the two projectors is the better black level and contrast done by the ALDP of the T1? Also, the T1 is brighter(much brighter?) while the Polaris may be easier to adjust due to four legs versus three on the T1.


I'd like to know the same details. Really was convinced on the T1, but all I really do is stream movies with a Streamer like Google Chromecast, can and will consider the Roku and watch the 1080p sports via IPTV... 😅... So thinking the Polaris could be the nice compromise to live with being a US attainable product...

Seems like an HDFury device like a Vertex2 is non-negotiable though?

Thanks all.


----------



## ProFragger

spexman said:


> *Tips from the T1 Thread*
> 
> A big shout out to all the enthusiasts contributing to the T1 thread--the T1 is a special projector and has created a lot of worthy buzz. I have been closely following the T1 thread, and many excellent insights have been learned. The main ones have to do with achieving optimal tone mapping, and several 'torture scenes' have come up to help achieve optimal results. By seeing the excellent output of the T1, one can also try to tweak their projector to achieve similar results. Three such scenes caught my eye(and once again, a caveat--what you see in photos is not what you see live, as much is lost/changed as it goes to the camera and then to your viewing screens--however, for illustrative purposes, as you will see, the point gets across with these photos):
> 
> *1)The Witcher scene(Dolby Vision)*
> 
> The following scene is very helpful as the ability to see the fine freckles on the face of the Elf Queen(sorry if I got her name wrong, as I do not watch this series) depends on the quality of the tone mapping.
> View attachment 3272425
> View attachment 3272416
> 
> 
> The first photo is the T1 and it nicely shows the myriad of freckles in the face of the queen...this was achieved using an HD Fury device set very carefully. The second photo is from the Polaris, using the Arcana(the entry level HD Fury device)--again, set very carefully to preserve those fine detailed freckles. Anyone looking to test the effectiveness of their HDR tone mapping would be wise to run this scene and ensure those freckles are not 'blown out'.
> 
> *2)The Horse Snow scene(Dolby Vision)*
> 
> This is a well known scene from a very well known calibration disc. This perhaps is THE torture test, as it contains bright whites and black shadow details--quite a range. The goal is to tone map such that one does not blow out the white details and not crush the black details.
> View attachment 3272428
> View attachment 3272430
> 
> Once again, the T1 shot is first. When I first saw this posted, I was incredibly impressed by its rendering. It is superb. This gave me the motivation to tweak as best as possible to attempt to achieve similar results. White balance issue aside(camera artifact), I was able to tune the Polaris to achieve a similar rendering, again, using the Arcana. Now, in case anyone is still questioning the value of the HD Fury devices when it comes to perfecting HDR tonemapping on their Polaris, here is the HDR10 rendering of the same scene, using ONLY the Polaris' internal tone mapping:
> View attachment 3272431
> 
> It is very easy to see the loss of both black and white detail if one relies solely on the Polaris to do the tone mapping. Bottom line--the Polaris deserves/needs an HD Fury device!
> 
> *3)The Black Well scene(Dolby Vision)*
> 
> This scene is able to help one set the tone mapping such that black shadow detail is preserved--now, a lot has to do with camera settings in the example below-(I reckon the T1 is slightly overexposed and the Polaris is underexposed):
> View attachment 3272432
> View attachment 3272433
> 
> Again, T1 is first, then the Polaris. Shadow detail in the well is visible in both shots, more so in the T1, though again, this is likely from camera exposure differences. The point here is not to compare, but to show that with proper HD Fury settings, we indeed get nice preservation of shadow details on both projectors.
> 
> To recap, a big thank you to the T1 enthusiasts for bringing these scenes to light, and for the hours of tweaking they are doing for our benefit. It is VERY hard to beat the imagery produced by properly tone mapped, 4k Tri-laser projectors. And this is best achieved with the addition of an HD Fury device. As I have mentioned before, the Polaris plus the Arcana produces an immensely pleasing theatrical experience.
> 
> *Addendum--one more tip from the T1 thread!*
> 
> Many in theT1 thread are big Roku fans and use the Roku Ultra as their primary streamer. I was not familiar with this streamer, but, the price is so low/attainable, I just had to take their advice and take the plunge. After setting it up, I then set off to do some comparos to the other two devices I use to stream--the Sony X700 and the Shield Pro.
> 
> *1)Netflix Dolby Vision Elf Queen scene Comparo*
> Here they are, X700/Shield/Roku in that order:
> View attachment 3272447
> View attachment 3272448
> View attachment 3272449
> 
> The differences in exposure are just that--it is a camera artifact. The truth is, the difference between them in real life, on the projector itself, are minimal. You would be hard pressed to pick one over the other. I truly was impressed with the output of the Roku, considering it is a fraction of the price of the other two devices.
> 
> *2)The Black Well scene(Dolby Vision)(Aladdin, Disney)*
> As the X700 cannot stream Disney, the comparo is Shield/Roku:
> View attachment 3272450
> View attachment 3272451
> 
> Once again, output is VERY similar.
> and one last one
> 
> *3)Panoramic scene, Dolby Vision, Aladdin, Disney*
> Shield/Roku:
> View attachment 3272456
> View attachment 3272460
> 
> And, as noted in the above 2 examples, this scene is also produced virtually identically between the two streamers. Again I can attest that in person, I simply could not tell the difference between these two streamers on Disney Dolby Vision material.
> And so, the Roku represents a sensational value. One other bonus that it has is its ability to send every/any source out as Dolby Vision, thus allowing fine tweaking of tone mapping with the Arcana. The Shield does not have that feature(the X700 does, but has very limited streaming capabilities). However, on both Netflix and Disney, the Roku cannot output 24Hz--it outputs at 60Hz--the Shield can output both Netflix and Disney at 24Hz) Bottom line, anyone looking for excellent quality 4K Dolby Vision output at a very affordable price, the Roku is your ticket!
> 
> For those interested, my optimal* LLDV* *Arcana settings with the Polaris* on all 3 devices(X700/Shield/Roku) is as follows:
> *PRIMARIES) REC2020
> MIN LUMINANCE) 0 nits
> MAX LUMINANCE) 200 nits*


Hello spexman. Thanks for all your hard work! What kind of screen are you using?


----------



## lattiboy

ProFragger said:


> I'd like to know the same details. Really was convinced on the T1, but all I really do is stream movies with a Streamer like Google Chromecast, can and will consider the Roku and watch the 1080p sports via IPTV... 😅... So thinking the Polaris could be the nice compromise to live with being a US attainable product...
> 
> Seems like an HDFury device like a Vertex2 is non-negotiable though?
> 
> Thanks all.


I actually owned both the Polaris and the T1, although no HD Fury with the Polaris. The contrast and black level are much better on the T1, with or without the HD Fury. The Polaris is good for a non-ALPD and looks about as good as the L9 in my opinion.

The Polaris is quieter, consumes half the power, and has better color gamut. If you can get the Polaris on sale at $1500-1650 I think it’s an incredible value.


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## arsenalfc89

ProFragger said:


> I'd like to know the same details. Really was convinced on the T1, but all I really do is stream movies with a Streamer like Google Chromecast, can and will consider the Roku and watch the 1080p sports via IPTV... 😅... So thinking the Polaris could be the nice compromise to live with being a US attainable product...
> 
> Seems like an HDFury device like a Vertex2 is non-negotiable though?
> 
> Thanks all.


If you get an HDFURY then PQ will look relatively similar between the two while also fixing the color issues but keep in mind with a ROKU this fix will only work if you’re watching a DV content but with the APPLE TV you can apply this fix to SDR and HDR since ATV can output all content in DV. If you do not want to buy an HDFURY then the T1 may stand out more due to the black level and if you like more saturated colors but the Polaris will look more accurate PQ wise. To me both need an HDFURY to get the best out of the projectors. I personally have the AWOL so I don’t use the HDFURY anymore lol tho HDFURY can improve the tone mapping.


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## spexman

ProFragger said:


> Hello spexman. Thanks for all your hard work! What kind of screen are you using?


Hello ProFragger....thank you for your positive comments.....I am using an Elite White 1.09 gain screen. I use it in a very dark, light controlled room; there is virtually no ambient light. In this environment, the Polaris puts out a really nice image on that surface.


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## spexman

lattiboy said:


> I actually owned both the Polaris and the T1, although no HD Fury with the Polaris. The contrast and black level are much better on the T1, with or without the HD Fury. The Polaris is good for a non-ALPD and looks about as good as the L9 in my opinion.
> 
> The Polaris is quieter, consumes half the power, and has better color gamut. If you can get the Polaris on sale at $1500-1650 I think it’s an incredible value.


Thank you for your input lattiboy, as you have had both these projectors. I have not seen the T1 live, in person, unfortunately, so I cannot give you a proper answer. I can only comment as to what I have read on the T1 site, and input from trustworthy enthusiasts like lattiboy.
The Polaris seems to have a native contrast very similar to the Hisense models(L9 and Pro) and the AWOL products--likely because they share similar components. As I mentioned in my review, with the dynamic laser dimming on high, the contrast improves considerably. That being said, it does appear that the best ALPD units, like the T1, have a way of achieving even better blacks/contrast. While I can live with the blacks the Polaris currently achieves, I would absolutely love to have better blacks on the Polaris, hands down.
While blacks are VERY important, there are other attributes to the image that come into play. Lattiboy has mentioned some of them, like a better colour gamut--a few other things it has going for it is a complete CMS to help fine tune the colorimetry, the absence of laser speckle(at least on my screen), and the ability to show 24p natively.
In terms of calibrated lumens, I suspect the T1 and the Polaris are similar.
Ultimately, it is your choice....I would totally agree with lattiboy in saying that the Polaris, for what it brings to the table, is a sensational value.

And as far as adding an HDFury device....to my knowledge, yes, they are the only way to get Dolby Vision to the Polaris...not sure if deals can be had, but the Arcana is not too bad price-wise.
I hope this helps both you and JackB.


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## JackB

Thanks Spexman. Having owned a Polaris for a short week I would probably go with a T1 if it became available as an international version sold by a US vendor and with a CMS calibration capability. I thought the Polaris was very good with amazing color but not enough of an improvement over my very bright DPI projector it would replace to merit the $2K expense. The substantIal improvement of blacks and contrast of the ALDP models was known at the time and I decided I would wait until they were available here in the US.

The one thing that concerns me is that the T1 seems to have a ton of niggling problems that requires a lot of work-arounds. I’m hoping that by the time I’m ready to buy all of these issues will have been fixed.


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## ProFragger

Thank you to both @arsenalfc89 and @spexman! Such great and patient responses by the both of you! Especially for a n00b like me.

I am starting to think that an HDFury device with both of these projectors is non-negotiable for a truly breathtaking picture. Although, there seems to be some debate on Arcana being enough or Vertex2 is the minimum we'd need?

My use cases for these projectors are merely streamed movies on the likes of HBO Max and 720 or 1080p IPTV for sports... What do you guys recommend in terms of extras to get the best picture from those 2 scenarios?

3 follow up questions:

1. Is there any Android device that could do DV and LLDV on SD and HD content all the time? AT4K may be too expensive and not for me... Not an apple guy...

2. Is it true that with HDFury I could get DV and even HDR10+ from the T1, Polaris and even C2?

3. @spexman is your screen an ALR screen? Isn't that too much gain?

Thank you both for your help!


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## spexman

JackB said:


> Thanks Spexman. Having owned a Polaris for a short week I would probably go with a T1 if it became available as an international version sold by a US vendor and with a CMS calibration capability. I thought the Polaris was very good with amazing color but not enough of an improvement over my very bright DPI projector it would replace to merit the $2K expense. The substantIal improvement of blacks and contrast of the ALDP models was known at the time and I decided I would wait until they were available here in the US.
> 
> The one thing that concerns me is that the T1 seems to have a ton of niggling problems that requires a lot of work-arounds. I’m hoping that by the time I’m ready to buy all of these issues will have been fixed.


That sounds reasonable JackB, if you are not getting enough oomph out of the Polaris over and above your current projector....I came from the HT3550 and the improvement in picture quality is undeniable.
As for the niggling problems with the T1, it is a pity that out of the gate, it has been plagued with small issues that require work arounds....here's hoping they can get the International version 'good to go', and to include that much needed CMS. Best of luck.


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## spexman

ProFragger said:


> Thank you to both @arsenalfc89 and @spexman! Such great and patient responses by the both of you! Especially for a n00b like me.
> 
> I am starting to think that an HDFury device with both of these projectors is non-negotiable for a truly breathtaking picture. Although, there seems to be some debate on Arcana being enough or Vertex2 is the minimum we'd need?
> 
> My use cases for these projectors are merely streamed movies on the likes of HBO Max and 720 or 1080p IPTV for sports... What do you guys recommend in terms of extras to get the best picture from those 2 scenarios?
> 
> 3 follow up questions:
> 
> 1. Is there any Android device that could do DV and LLDV on SD and HD content all the time? AT4K may be too expensive and not for me... Not an apple guy...
> 
> 2. Is it true that with HDFury I could get DV and even HDR10+ from the T1, Polaris and even C2?
> 
> 3. @spexman is your screen an ALR screen? Isn't that too much gain?
> 
> Thank you both for your help!


You are welcome ProFragger....as per your questions:
1a)I honestly do not believe there will be a difference in picture quality whether you get the Arcana or the Vertex2; the Vertex2 gives many 'other' options if you need them, but for LLDV-->HDR, they would both produce similar results. As mentioned, I have the Arcana, and it produces dynamite results.
1b)I do believe the Roku Ultra can do this, send ALL content out as LLDV. The Shield cannot.
2)With the HDFury, you can get DV(the LLDV variety) to any projector that does HDR10. It does NOT give you HDR10+.
3)It is not ALR....no it is not too much gain. I have zero speckle and zero hotspotting....you will notice the pictures I post reflect this.
4)You do not need an HDFury device if you are watching SDR material(your sports). There is no tone mapping being done, and so directly to the Polaris would work fine(though if you stream them via the Roku and output them as LLDV, you would be staying in Rec2020 which is important for the Polaris). IF HBO Max offers DV or HDR10 movies, then yes, this is where the HDFury devices will allow you to get great tone mapping and great results.

Hope this helps and all the best.


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## JackB

Spexman, I have a number of the finest DLP HD projectors with great quality. They are not HDR capability as they are 2012 vintage. Will the Roku Ultra forcing DV and the HDfury processing it do the heralded tone mapping, or does it have to be HDR output to work?


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## spexman

JackB said:


> Spexman, I have a number of the finest DLP HD projectors with great quality. They are not HDR capability as they are 2012 vintage. Will the Roku Ultra forcing DV and the HDfury processing it do the heralded tone mapping, or does it have to be HDR output to work?


JackB, your vintage DLP HD projectors would be strictly SDR. Any playback device that feeds it will at best output 1080p SDR. Even if you use the Roku Ultra to watch 4K HDR material, the Roku Ultra will convert that to 1080p SDR to output to the projector. The HDFury in this case would not help. The HDFury allows passage of Dolby Vision dynamically tone mapped HDR material to HDR projectors. It does NOT itself do the tone mapping. The Roku Ultra does the tone mapping. The HDFury 'tells' the Roku to tone map, as it 'tricks it' into thinking it is outputting to a LLDV capable projector.
Bottom line, no, for your vintage HD SDR projectors, you do not need an HDFury device.


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## JackB

spexman said:


> JackB, your vintage DLP HD projectors would be strictly SDR. Any playback device that feeds it will at best output 1080p SDR. Even if you use the Roku Ultra to watch 4K HDR material, the Roku Ultra will convert that to 1080p SDR to output to the projector. The HDFury in this case would not help. The HDFury allows passage of Dolby Vision dynamically tone mapped HDR material to HDR projectors. It does NOT itself do the tone mapping. The Roku Ultra does the tone mapping. The HDFury 'tells' the Roku to tone map, as it 'tricks it' into thinking it is outputting to a LLDV capable projector.
> Bottom line, no, for your vintage HD SDR projectors, you do not need an HDFury device.


If I understand what you are saying correctly then it seems that the HDfury will take the tone mapped image given to it and down-rez it to 1080 while keeping the tone mapped image. As a second part of the issue, I know that I have to tell my Shield to send everything in SDR 709 format or the HDR content will be washed out. But thatis because my down-rez splitter is unable to remove the HDR. I would think that the HDfury could take the HDR or DV image, convert it to SDR keeping the tone map, and then down-rez it. Would not the tone mapping stay with the converted image?


----------



## spexman

JackB said:


> If I understand what you are saying correctly then it seems that the HDfury will take the tone mapped image given to it and down-rez it to 1080 while keeping the tone mapped image. As a second part of the issue, I know that I have to tell my Shield to send everything in SDR 709 format or the HDR content will be washed out. But thatis because my down-rez splitter is unable to remove the HDR. I would think that the HDfury could take the HDR or DV image, convert it to SDR keeping the tone map, and then down-rez it. Would not the tone mapping stay with the converted image?


The tone mapping and down rezzing of 4K HDR material to 1080p SDR takes place in the player--be it the Roku Ultra or the Shield. When you set your Shield to SDR709 for your projector(and so you should), it will automatically down rez and tone map 4K HDR10 content to SDR709.


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## JackB

spexman said:


> The tone mapping and down rezzing of 4K HDR material to 1080p SDR takes place in the player--be it the Roku Ultra or the Shield. When you set your Shield to SDR709 for your projector(and so you should), it will automatically down rez and tone map 4K HDR10 content to SDR709.


But it has to think my projector is DV capable to include tone mapping. Right? So, then the 1080P output port on the HDfury will include tone mapped SDR? If it works this way it seems the Vertex2 would be worth the investment.


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## spexman

JackB said:


> But it has to think my projector is DV capable to include tone mapping. Right? So, then the 1080P output port on the HDfury will include tone mapped SDR? If it works this way it seems the Vertex2 would be worth the investment.


I am by no means an HDFury expert, but I do believe there must be an HDR display on the end of the HDFury in order to enable LLDV-->HDR. Furthermore, I believe that it is best to stay in the SDR domain for an SDR projector; in other words, use material that is in SDR--that way you avoid the need for tone mapping.


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## JackB

You are probably right about the HDR requirement. I do have a HDR 4K pixel shifter projector so it would probably work for that. I wonder if the improved tone mapping is worth the 500 bucks. Not sure it is for me as most of my watching is Directv with my SDR 1080 projectors.


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## ProFragger

spexman said:


> You are welcome ProFragger....as per your questions:
> 1a)I honestly do not believe there will be a difference in picture quality whether you get the Arcana or the Vertex2; the Vertex2 gives many 'other' options if you need them, but for LLDV-->HDR, they would both produce similar results. As mentioned, I have the Arcana, and it produces dynamite results.
> 1b)I do believe the Roku Ultra can do this, send ALL content out as LLDV. The Shield cannot.
> 2)With the HDFury, you can get DV(the LLDV variety) to any projector that does HDR10. It does NOT give you HDR10+.
> 3)It is not ALR....no it is not too much gain. I have zero speckle and zero hotspotting....you will notice the pictures I post reflect this.
> 4)You do not need an HDFury device if you are watching SDR material(your sports). There is no tone mapping being done, and so directly to the Polaris would work fine(though if you stream them via the Roku and output them as LLDV, you would be staying in Rec2020 which is important for the Polaris). IF HBO Max offers DV or HDR10 movies, then yes, this is where the HDFury devices will allow you to get great tone mapping and great results.
> 
> Hope this helps and all the best.


Another helpful response! Thank you so much man! 

1. The T1 thread seems to mention the Arcana quite sparingly, so I thought a Vertex2 was the bare minimum. Is there a way to confirm if the Roku does output all, including SD to LLDV? 

3. Maybe I ask why not an ALR screen? Everyone on this forum is adament about those for the USTs... 

4. I gotcha... So then why does the T1 claim to be an HDR10+ projector? I guess the idea is that the projector itself will tone map for HDR10+? Why do you think the HDFury devices cannot convert to HDR10+ signal? 

Thank you again!


----------



## spexman

ProFragger said:


> Another helpful response! Thank you so much man!
> 
> 1. The T1 thread seems to mention the Arcana quite sparingly, so I thought a Vertex2 was the bare minimum. Is there a way to confirm if the Roku does output all, including SD to LLDV?
> 
> 3. Maybe I ask why not an ALR screen? Everyone on this forum is adament about those for the USTs...
> 
> 4. I gotcha... So then why does the T1 claim to be an HDR10+ projector? I guess the idea is that the projector itself will tone map for HDR10+? Why do you think the HDFury devices cannot convert to HDR10+ signal?
> 
> Thank you again!


You're welcome.
1. The Roku Ultra does convert everything to LLDV. This has been confirmed in the T1 forum many times.
3. ALR screens are not necessary if you have a light controlled room. I believe most people that purchase these units plan to use them in the dark AND when there is ambient light. The ALR screens will help produce a better picture when there is ambient light. However, in a bat cave(like my environment), these screens are not necessary. Again, the pictures I post show that--there is no wash out/compromise of the image anywhere.
4. The T1 does NOT do HDR 10+, even though some literature states that it does. In order to 'enjoy' HDR10+, the projector and the source player must be HDR10+ compatible, and of course, the material must by HDR10+ encoded. If I am not mistaken, the display device does the tone mapping in the HDR10+ format, so, an HDFury work around for HDR10+ would not apply (like it does for Dolby Vision, where there are 2 flavours possible, display led(regular DV) and player led(LLDV)).


----------



## JackB

Does the Roku Ultra have to be the latest model? If so, what model year would that be?


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## spexman

JackB said:


> Does the Roku Ultra have to be the latest model? If so, what model year would that be?


The last Roku Ultra, 4800 series, released October 2020.


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## ProFragger

spexman said:


> You're welcome.
> 1. The Roku Ultra does convert everything to LLDV. This has been confirmed in the T1 forum many times.
> 3. ALR screens are not necessary if you have a light controlled room. I believe most people that purchase these units plan to use them in the dark AND when there is ambient light. The ALR screens will help produce a better picture when there is ambient light. However, in a bat cave(like my environment), these screens are not necessary. Again, the pictures I post show that--there is no wash out/compromise of the image anywhere.
> 4. The T1 does NOT do HDR 10+, even though some literature states that it does. In order to 'enjoy' HDR10+, the projector and the source player must be HDR10+ compatible, and of course, the material must by HDR10+ encoded. If I am not mistaken, the display device does the tone mapping in the HDR10+ format, so, an HDFury work around for HDR10+ would not apply (like it does for Dolby Vision, where there are 2 flavours possible, display led(regular DV) and player led(LLDV)).


Thank you again! So I plan to use this in a "media room" which has no windows and overhead lights that could be dimmed... Nothing going directly on the screen... Do you think that is considered ambient light to the point where it warrants an ALR? Or something cheaper may suffice?

Thanks for the info on the Roku. Do you know of any Android streamers that could stream in DV all the time? I'm just so vested in the Android eco-system! 😊

Thank you again!


----------



## spexman

ProFragger said:


> Thank you again! So I plan to use this in a "media room" which has no windows and overhead lights that could be dimmed... Nothing going directly on the screen... Do you think that is considered ambient light to the point where it warrants an ALR? Or something cheaper may suffice?
> 
> Thanks for the info on the Roku. Do you know of any Android streamers that could stream in DV all the time? I'm just so vested in the Android eco-system! 😊
> 
> Thank you again!


So, if those overhead lights can be shut off while viewing and there is no other light, you should be fine--depending on how close the screen is to the ceiling/floor/walls, you may need to 'treat' them. My screen is surrounded by a 4' 'dark treatment' ceiling/floor/walls. This further helps as it absorbs the light that is reflected off the screen from the projector itself and ensures it does not reflect back to wash out the screen. You need do this ONLY if you feel your set up is not sufficient enough.
I believe the Zidoo Z9X is Android and can send all output as LLDV. I do not have this device, but many AVSers do and speak highly of it.


----------



## ProFragger

spexman said:


> So, if those overhead lights can be shut off while viewing and there is no other light, you should be fine--depending on how close the screen is to the ceiling/floor/walls, you may need to 'treat' them. My screen is surrounded by a 4' 'dark treatment' ceiling/floor/walls. This further helps as it absorbs the light that is reflected off the screen from the projector itself and ensures it does not reflect back to wash out the screen. You need do this ONLY if you feel your set up is not sufficient enough.
> I believe the Zidoo Z9X is Android and can send all output as LLDV. I do not have this device, but many AVSers do and speak highly of it.


Hmm... Thank you again... I'm starting to think that even with some light and a PET Crystal I should get decent PQ even without pitch dark for live sports content? Otherwise for movies... I can of course control all the lights in the room without the dark treatment though, other than the room being built as a theater room without windows... 😅...

The Z9X is so expensive! But it does have official Android Chromecast and Netflix support, you think?

Thanks again!


----------



## spexman

ProFragger said:


> Hmm... Thank you again... I'm starting to think that even with some light and a PET Crystal I should get decent PQ even without pitch dark for live sports content? Otherwise for movies... I can of course control all the lights in the room without the dark treatment though, other than the room being built as a theater room without windows... 😅...
> 
> The Z9X is so expensive! But it does have official Android Chromecast and Netflix support, you think?
> 
> Thanks again!


I reckon that your thinking for screen selection is correct.
As for the Z9X, again, I don't have any experience with it but I believe it is best set up as a file player and not so much as a streamer...


----------



## ProFragger

spexman said:


> I reckon that your thinking for screen selection is correct.
> As for the Z9X, again, I don't have any experience with it but I believe it is best set up as a file player and not so much as a streamer...


Thank you on both counts... Appreciate all your help, my friend!


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## spexman

ProFragger said:


> Thank you on both counts... Appreciate all your help, my friend!


Don't mention it--that is what we are here for--all the best with your set up!


----------



## sidery222

Hello,
I am new here. Do you know what is the utility of the screw located on the back of the Bomaker Polaris and indicated by a white arrow?


----------



## Mallorca

Good day @All,
just ordered the Bomaker & already own a LG HU85LS and a 120" clr motor screen.
Will compare them and post my impressions when the Bomaker has arrived...
Thank you for all the useful information in this discussion!
Greetings.


----------



## spexman

Mallorca said:


> Good day @All,
> just ordered the Bomaker & already own a LG HU85LS and a 120" clr motor screen.
> Will compare them and post my impressions when the Bomaker has arrived...
> Thank you for all the useful information in this discussion!
> Greetings.


Welcome to the forum Mallorca and look forward to your impressions!


----------



## Vcnzo

sidery222 said:


> Hello,
> I am new here. Do you know what is the utility of the screw located on the back of the Bomaker Polaris and indicated by a white arrow?


 ground ?


----------



## kaptaink45

So I have had my Bomaker for about 16 months now. Been running it pretty much every day for at least 8 hours a day, but last night it developed a dead pixel in the bottom center of the screen. Before this it has been really solid with no major problems. The only other issue I have had with the Bomaker since I first got it is that when I switch inputs on my receiver from my Nvidia Shield to my DirecTV, the picture is very washed out with a heavy green tint to it. I can fix it by either restarting the projector or just switching my receiver input to my AppleTV then back to DirecTV then everything is fine. Just wanted to share this info in case people are wondering how this projector has held up under heavy use (4000+ hours so far).


----------



## humax

kaptaink45 said:


> Been running it pretty much every day for at least 8 hours a day, but last night it developed a dead pixel in the bottom center of the screen



Sorry to hear that. Reports about dead pixels or rather stuck micro-mirrors in these new tri-lasers are piling up. A bit worrisome IMHO, since they are promoted as laser TVs and heavy use is the norm. The sad part is so far I have only read of Samsung service authorizing a replacement unit due to a dead pixel. Other companies do not even seem to bother. It is really disappointing and trying to have the DMD replaced by a technician is far from an easy task, let alone expensive.


----------



## sidery222

Hello
Here are some photos of my Bomaker Polaris watching X-MEN in 4K
I have obvious chromatic aberration in 1080p, in 4K no trace


----------



## kazamali

Hi folks,

Been watching this forum for a while and thought I'd share my experience so far. I've had the Bomaker for well over a year, but due to delays in my repurposed attic / dedicated home theater build, I finally got it up and running in Feb. I have it hooked up with a Nakamichi Soundbar and an Nvidia Shield (was a Fire TV Cube, but I needed true passthru). The projector has been great (on a custom drywall 130" screen). I also have it mounted on the ceiling so it's out of the way. At this point, I have no real complaints. Been using it at least 3-4 hours every single day. The only two issues I've had are:


This only happened twice: The projector will blank out and the LED on the front goes RED. The first time, I'm pretty sure it's a heat issue as the fans were spinning double time and since it's partially recessed in the ceiling and was running for about 5 hours that day, that's probably the cause. The other time, it was just running for 20 minutes. Had live tv paused on my Shield and when I went to unpause, the projector blanked out and went RED (of course during the Kentucky Derby--my friends LOVED jabbing me for that!!)....took a few minutes, but it looked like it "rebooted" and came back...super weird.
On the right side of my screen...I would say the last 12-15" on the bottom and top angle inwards towards the center of the screen on a 1" slope. I've checked the flatness of my wall (like to the T when I was making it), so not sure if it's something with the projector itself. Like many others, manually getting this thing to align is almost a fool's errand, lol
Other than that, it's been smooth sailing. The next things I'm going to invest in are 1. optical HDMI as the Shield is outputting some serious throughput and i have a 15ft run to the projector. 2. Corrective lens (thanks to a member on the forum) and 3. HDFury Dr. HDMI 8k. I'd like to get DV running and this seems to be the best thing (yes, I've looked at the Arcana and others, but I don't need eARC, nor any type of splitter). Anyone else use the Dr. HDMI and care to share their impressions?

Thanks and apologies for the "wind" here....it's been a while.


----------



## JackB

kazamali said:


> Hi folks,
> 
> Been watching this forum for a while and thought I'd share my experience so far. I've had the Bomaker for well over a year, but due to delays in my repurposed attic / dedicated home theater build, I finally got it up and running in Feb. I have it hooked up with a Nakamichi Soundbar and an Nvidia Shield (was a Fire TV Cube, but I needed true passthru). The projector has been great (on a custom drywall 130" screen). I also have it mounted on the ceiling so it's out of the way. At this point, I have no real complaints. Been using it at least 3-4 hours every single day. The only two issues I've had are:
> 
> 
> This only happened twice: The projector will blank out and the LED on the front goes RED. The first time, I'm pretty sure it's a heat issue as the fans were spinning double time and since it's partially recessed in the ceiling and was running for about 5 hours that day, that's probably the cause. The other time, it was just running for 20 minutes. Had live tv paused on my Shield and when I went to unpause, the projector blanked out and went RED (of course during the Kentucky Derby--my friends LOVED jabbing me for that!!)....took a few minutes, but it looked like it "rebooted" and came back...super weird.
> On the right side of my screen...I would say the last 12-15" on the bottom and top angle inwards towards the center of the screen on a 1" slope. I've checked the flatness of my wall (like to the T when I was making it), so not sure if it's something with the projector itself. Like many others, manually getting this thing to align is almost a fool's errand, lol
> Other than that, it's been smooth sailing. The next things I'm going to invest in are 1. optical HDMI as the Shield is outputting some serious throughput and i have a 15ft run to the projector. 2. Corrective lens (thanks to a member on the forum) and 3. HDFury Dr. HDMI 8k. I'd like to get DV running and this seems to be the best thing (yes, I've looked at the Arcana and others, but I don't need eARC, nor any type of splitter). Anyone else use the Dr. HDMI and care to share their impressions?
> 
> Thanks and apologies for the "wind" here....it's been a while.


Although it could be your wall it's more likely your projector alignment is causing the problem. Did you use the alignment instructions in the manual? They are very good.


----------



## spexman

kazamali said:


> Hi folks,
> 
> Been watching this forum for a while and thought I'd share my experience so far. I've had the Bomaker for well over a year, but due to delays in my repurposed attic / dedicated home theater build, I finally got it up and running in Feb. I have it hooked up with a Nakamichi Soundbar and an Nvidia Shield (was a Fire TV Cube, but I needed true passthru). The projector has been great (on a custom drywall 130" screen). I also have it mounted on the ceiling so it's out of the way. At this point, I have no real complaints. Been using it at least 3-4 hours every single day. The only two issues I've had are:
> 
> 
> This only happened twice: The projector will blank out and the LED on the front goes RED. The first time, I'm pretty sure it's a heat issue as the fans were spinning double time and since it's partially recessed in the ceiling and was running for about 5 hours that day, that's probably the cause. The other time, it was just running for 20 minutes. Had live tv paused on my Shield and when I went to unpause, the projector blanked out and went RED (of course during the Kentucky Derby--my friends LOVED jabbing me for that!!)....took a few minutes, but it looked like it "rebooted" and came back...super weird.
> On the right side of my screen...I would say the last 12-15" on the bottom and top angle inwards towards the center of the screen on a 1" slope. I've checked the flatness of my wall (like to the T when I was making it), so not sure if it's something with the projector itself. Like many others, manually getting this thing to align is almost a fool's errand, lol
> Other than that, it's been smooth sailing. The next things I'm going to invest in are 1. optical HDMI as the Shield is outputting some serious throughput and i have a 15ft run to the projector. 2. Corrective lens (thanks to a member on the forum) and 3. HDFury Dr. HDMI 8k. I'd like to get DV running and this seems to be the best thing (yes, I've looked at the Arcana and others, but I don't need eARC, nor any type of splitter). Anyone else use the Dr. HDMI and care to share their impressions?
> 
> Thanks and apologies for the "wind" here....it's been a while.


Welcome back Kazamali and thank you for the info on your long term experience with the Polaris--gives us relative newcomers some reassurance!...in regards to the Dr. HDMI--I do not have any experience with it, but you need to make sure that it offers 'LLDV-->HDR' as a feature. Below is confirmation of that feature for the Arcana from the Arcana site:









And here is the menu screen for it(again, from the Arcana):








If Dr HDMI offers the same, you should be good to go.


----------



## kazamali

spexman said:


> Welcome back Kazamali and thank you for the info on your long term experience with the Polaris--gives us relative newcomers some reassurance!...in regards to the Dr. HDMI--I do not have any experience with it, but you need to make sure that it offers 'LLDV-->HDR' as a feature. Below is confirmation of that feature for the Arcana from the Arcana site:
> View attachment 3279222
> 
> 
> And here is the menu screen for it(again, from the Arcana):
> View attachment 3279223
> 
> If Dr HDMI offers the same, you should be good to go.


Ah good catch..... Honestly HDFury has SO many products, it's hard to distinguish what does what. But is it safe to assume that Bomaker folks are all (mostly) using the Arcana and having consistent results?


----------



## spexman

Yeah, agree, the HDFury stuff can be quite confusing.....I personally only have experience with the Arcana, which seems to be an 'entry level' product. I use it exclusively for the LLDV->HDR10 function. And it works smoothly, consistently and beautifully displaying LLDV material on the Polaris. It really does.


----------



## deep122

Just went through nearly all 57 pages of this thread. I am considering getting the Bomaker Polaris given the price and ease of ordering/returning at Walmart. The Optoma Cinemax P2 is also on sale for $2300 vs. Bomaker for $1980 (including extended warranty). I may also consider the T1, though it's a bit higher in price point.

At this point, what is the recommended UST between the Polaris, P2, C2, and T1? Seems like everyone is talking about the T1.


----------



## spexman

That is a good question--as you can imagine, there are pros and cons associated with any of these selections. You will have to base your decision on what matters most to you, and of course, budget.
The P2 and C2 are not tri-laser units, and thus, have a reduced gamut compared to the tri lasers. If you plan to calibrate, the P2 includes a full CMS whereas the C2 does not. However, as you know, the C2 apparently has significantly better/class leading native contrast.
The T1 has created a lot of buzz as it takes that class leading contrast and mates it to a tri laser engine, producing a much great gamut. The initial offering was the 'China' version--it does not include a CMS or even a two point grey scale adjustment. Apparently, there are plans to launch an 'International' version which WILL include a CMS and proper grey scale adjustments. On the China version, there appears to be some laser speckle.
The Polaris is also a tri laser unit, as you know, and has an even larger gamut than the T1. It has a CMS and calibrates really nicely. There is no noticeable speckle. Its contrast is similar to the Hisense tri-lasers--not bad, but by no means class leading. From all reports, the T1 well exceeds it when it comes to blacks. However, for all the things it does so impressively, for the price, it is a phenomenal value. In my humble opinion, IF the powers that be in the Hisense/Bomaker camp can figure out how the ALPD folks achieve such impressive black levels and include that in a 'Polaris 2', that would be a dream come true... 
As you can see, there is no 'perfect' projector(yet)--I hope this helps, and all the best with your decision.


----------



## vulture

deep122 said:


> Just went through nearly all 57 pages of this thread. I am considering getting the Bomaker Polaris given the price and ease of ordering/returning at Walmart. The Optoma Cinemax P2 is also on sale for $2300 vs. Bomaker for $1980 (including extended warranty). I may also consider the T1, though it's a bit higher in price point.
> 
> At this point, what is the recommended UST between the Polaris, P2, C2, and T1? Seems like everyone is talking about the T1.


At this point the T1, has focus adjustment, the company releases frequent firmware updates, with projectivy.apk installed you get access to the mediatek settings for better calibration, its B&W sound system is outstanding, supports DV and eARC.


----------



## deep122

Thanks! I appreciate that input.


----------



## JackB

The Bonaire is trouble free. The T1 seems to have a whole lot of niggling issues. The C2 seems to be trouble free also.


----------



## jonathan777

Hello, everyone. Forgive me if this has already been covered.

I don’t fully understand how to implement the hdfury into my home theater. But based on all your glowing reviews I’m interested. Do I just connect it to the tv and then to my receiver? Or am I missing something? Would the budget model (Arcana, I think) be sufficient for a home theater set up?


----------



## Meihk

spexman said:


> Thank you for your input lattiboy, as you have had both these projectors. I have not seen the T1 live, in person, unfortunately, so I cannot give you a proper answer. I can only comment as to what I have read on the T1 site, and input from trustworthy enthusiasts like lattiboy.
> The Polaris seems to have a native contrast very similar to the Hisense models(L9 and Pro) and the AWOL products--likely because they share similar components. As I mentioned in my review, with the dynamic laser dimming on high, the contrast improves considerably. That being said, it does appear that the best ALPD units, like the T1, have a way of achieving even better blacks/contrast. While I can live with the blacks the Polaris currently achieves, I would absolutely love to have better blacks on the Polaris, hands down.
> While blacks are VERY important, there are other attributes to the image that come into play. Lattiboy has mentioned some of them, like a better colour gamut--a few other things it has going for it is a complete CMS to help fine tune the colorimetry, the absence of laser speckle(at least on my screen), and the ability to show 24p natively.
> In terms of calibrated lumens, I suspect the T1 and the Polaris are similar.
> Ultimately, it is your choice....I would totally agree with lattiboy in saying that the Polaris, for what it brings to the table, is a sensational value.
> 
> And as far as adding an HDFury device....to my knowledge, yes, they are the only way to get Dolby Vision to the Polaris...not sure if deals can be had, but the Arcana is not too bad price-wise.
> I hope this helps both you and JackB.


I've had the Polaris since the indiegogo campaign years ago and it's been great for the most part. Thanks for all the color calibration guides! I use a desktop computer running Kodi to stream my Emby content from my server. It's connected to an AV receiver which is connected to the receiver and a 5.1 speaker system. I was wondering if there would be benefit in getting an HDFury device for this setup? I am not sure if the converter is necessary for a PC running Windows 11? Any software that can be used to upscale? Windows 11 has an HDR setting but I'm not the biggest fan, seems to white wash everything imo and the colors seem off.


----------



## spexman

jonathan777 said:


> Hello, everyone. Forgive me if this has already been covered.
> 
> I don’t fully understand how to implement the hdfury into my home theater. But based on all your glowing reviews I’m interested. Do I just connect it to the tv and then to my receiver? Or am I missing something? Would the budget model (Arcana, I think) be sufficient for a home theater set up?


Hello jonathan777,
If your video playback devices go through your receiver, then yes, feed the output of the receiver into the input of HDFury device. Then, the output of the HDFury goes to the Polaris. This way, any of your compatible playback devices can take advantage of the HDFury. And yes, the Arcana will do just fine. Good luck!


----------



## spexman

Meihk said:


> I've had the Polaris since the indiegogo campaign years ago and it's been great for the most part. Thanks for all the color calibration guides! I use a desktop computer running Kodi to stream my Emby content from my server. It's connected to an AV receiver which is connected to the receiver and a 5.1 speaker system. I was wondering if there would be benefit in getting an HDFury device for this setup? I am not sure if the converter is necessary for a PC running Windows 11? Any software that can be used to upscale? Windows 11 has an HDR setting but I'm not the biggest fan, seems to white wash everything imo and the colors seem off.


Hello Meihk, glad to have 'an original' with us....good to hear the guides have been helpful. The major benefit of the HDFury devices is to get Low Latency Dolby Vision(LLDV) dynamic tone mapping to the Polaris. I am not 100% on this, as I am not up on the latest computer gear, but, I believe that LLDV playback is not possible via a PC.(if it is, would be happy to be corrected). If/when it becomes available, then yes, an HDFury device would be beneficial. Until then, there really is no benefit(sorry).


----------



## lilbuddha

PeterL111 said:


> I kept asking for a repair, but so far, they have turned silent. This is no where near the hassle-free repair service mentioned on their website. Any suggestion what I should do next?


Looks like I have the dreaded dead white pixel too - showed up today and almost at the same place near the bottom center. Did you resolve this issue by any chance?


----------



## kazamali

Finally got an HDFury Arcana working on my setup...holy cow, what a difference! I do, however, need to upgrade my cables as anything at ~600Mhz is clearly having attenuation issues...

Question for y'all: Any issues with HDMI CEC and your projector when using the Arcana? If the Arcana is anywhere in the chain, the Polaris won't power down when I power off my NVShield. It DOES power ON, however. Take the Arcana out and power issue are completely gone. Not sure if there are CEC settings on the Polaris that I can toggle?


----------



## spexman

kazamali said:


> Finally got an HDFury Arcana working on my setup...holy cow, what a difference! I do, however, need to upgrade my cables as anything at ~600Mhz is clearly having attenuation issues...
> 
> Question for y'all: Any issues with HDMI CEC and your projector when using the Arcana? If the Arcana is anywhere in the chain, the Polaris won't power down when I power off my NVShield. It DOES power ON, however. Take the Arcana out and power issue are completely gone. Not sure if there are CEC settings on the Polaris that I can toggle?


Congrats on the new HDFury addition/upgrade to the Polaris! Glad it made a 'holy cow' difference for you!
I also have the Shield(2019 version), and my path is Shield to Marantz receiver to Arcana to Polaris--I can confirm that indeed, the Polaris DOES shut down when I power the Shield off....so, hopefully we can get it to work for you too!


----------



## kazamali

Thanks, Spex!

Ok, so there is some hope here. I use a Nakamichi Soundbar as my "AVR" so I'll see if I can tweak any settings there. I know CEC can be super finicky to the point that switching something back and forth can be enough to make things work.


----------



## jonathan777

The other day I noticed these streaks in the image, noticeable only with the lighter colors, especially white. I honestly can't tell if it's my screen or the projector. If it's the projector, what could this be from? Has anyone encountered this? I'm the only one in the family who notices it of course—my wife and kids could care less. Lol


----------



## jonathan777

jonathan777 said:


> The other day I noticed these streaks in the image, noticeable only with the lighter colors, especially white. I honestly can't tell if it's my screen or the projector. If it's the projector, what could this be from? Has anyone encountered this? I'm the only one in the family who notices it of course—my wife and kids could care less. Lol
> View attachment 3295607
> 
> View attachment 3295606


Okay, it's definitely not the screen. It's the projector. Is this fixable? I'm guessing this image is issues were there since day one;I just don't notice.


----------



## spexman

jonathan777 said:


> Okay, it's definitely not the screen. It's the projector. Is this fixable? I'm guessing this image is issues were there since day one;I just don't notice.
> View attachment 3295621
> 
> View attachment 3295622


jonathan777, some of your photos do indeed look like subtle screen imperfections where the screen material is not tensioned enough, causing slight undulations--that being said, you have confirmed it is not the screen. My suggestion is to ensure the exit window protective plastic is pristinely clean. Gently clean it with a dampened soft cloth and see if things improve. Hope you solve it.


----------



## jonathan777

spexman said:


> jonathan777, some of your photos do indeed look like subtle screen imperfections where the screen material is not tensioned enough, causing slight undulations--that being said, you have confirmed it is not the screen. My suggestion is to ensure the exit window protective plastic is pristinely clean. Gently clean it with a dampened soft cloth and see if things improve. Hope you solve it.


Wow, I think you're right. It looks smudged. I have a mild lense cleaner I used for my old projector. I just cleaned it. It does look better. I think the other lines are from the projector but I'll have to examine it more closely later. It's a tensioned screen, but it isnt the most expensive type or anything.


----------



## spexman

Glad you are making progress. Hopefully a little more tension on the screen and you will reach perfection!


----------



## spexman

*Achieving Optimal Focus for Larger Screens*
In my original review posted on page 44, I mentioned that the Polaris does not have an adjustable focus and that the ideal focus occurs between 90-100"--anything over 110" benefits from a corrective lens, particularly the upper corners(on a table mount), right more so than left. Subsequent to that, I have spent quite a bit of time perfecting the lens design to achieve optimal results. Each screen size requires a unique lens design. I have successfully fabricated lenses for members with screen sizes of 130" and 170", and for my screen which sits at 150". I am awaiting before(without lens) and after(with lens) photos from the 130" screen--here they are(Bomaker Polaris 4K Ultra Short Throw Laser TV), but below are such photos for the 150" and 170" screen.

*150"(ceiling mount) Before first, then After*
Full Screen
















Bottom Left
















Bottom Right

















*170"(table mount) Before first, then After*

Full Polaris Test Pattern
*














*


Top Right Corner

















Commenting on the photos that I have taken on the 150" screen, I can honestly say that all four corners are now very sharp--the entire image is in focus! There is no longer any noticeable softness in the corners.
My room set up does not allow me go larger than 150"--I truly wish I could, as the Polaris puts out plenty of calibrated lumens to light up even bigger screen sizes. And, with the ability to achieve proper focus for those sizes, that makes for quite the theatrical experience!
For those of you with larger screen sizes that are frustrated by the softer image, particularly the extreme corners, a solution does exist. Feel free to PM me if you are interested in having a lens fabricated for your screen size.


----------



## jonathanwilliamporte

Regarding the HD Fury Arcan —

Is this the only device that can enhance the Polaris' image quality, or are there other brands out there that perform similar enhancements?


----------



## spexman

To my knowledge, yes, only the various HDFury products offer the ability to send LLDV signals to an HDR10 display. If anyone knows differently, would love to learn about it!


----------



## m0j0

spexman said:


> To my knowledge, yes, only the various HDFury products offer the ability to send LLDV signals to an HDR10 display. If anyone knows differently, would love to learn about it!


If you use something like a Zidoo Z9X, it can upload a custom EDID which basically does the same thing as the HDFury, but of course that would only apply for content on the Zidoo, which is great as a media player for local media files but not a streamer.


----------



## spexman

m0j0 said:


> If you use something like a Zidoo Z9X, it can upload a custom EDID which basically does the same thing as the HDFury, but of course that would only apply for content on the Zidoo, which is great as a media player for local media files but not a streamer.


Well thank you for that tidbit of interesting information m0j0--while niche, it may be an option nevertheless for certain individuals--your feedback is, as always, much appreciated!


----------



## m0j0

spexman said:


> Well thank you for that tidbit of interesting information m0j0--while niche, it may be an option nevertheless for certain individuals--your feedback is, as always, much appreciated!


Glad to help. If someone has a Zidoo, they would just go to the Custom EDID section and either select one of the built-in ones, or they can upload one. Mark Swift has several here:








EDID thread (FW v6.1.10 onwards) (Updated)


From firmware v6.1.10, the 1619 players now allow EDIDs to be uploaded to override the EDID presented by the display, amp or soundbar. Amongst other...




forum.zidoo.tv


----------



## Transepoch

spexman said:


> To my knowledge, yes, only the various HDFury products offer the ability to send LLDV signals to an HDR10 display. If anyone knows differently, would love to learn about it!





m0j0 said:


> If you use something like a Zidoo Z9X, it can upload a custom EDID which basically does the same thing as the HDFury, but of course that would only apply for content on the Zidoo, which is great as a media player for local media files but not a streamer.


There's also various switches, splitters, processors, etc. that can send custom EDIDs (to tie or fudge content across displays of different capabilities.) Some are more easy to edit/customize than others, but would at least be able to clone an existing display chain or import an existing configuration of the proper format.


----------



## jonathanwilliamporte

Another question regarding the Arcana:

I'm part of a Criterion Collection forum, and I was asking the group if it was worth upgrading a particular film and mentioned the Polaris. Another projector user asked how I was planning to deal with the inherent tone mapping issues projectors have with hdr10 content, and I mentioned the Arcana, to which he replied: "that device is just extracting audio out, that's pretty much it. it doesn't perform any tonemapping." 

I'm definitely a projector noob, so I apologize if this has been addressed before, but I was curious how an audio device gives access to visual modifications. I didn't know how to respond to the guy...


----------



## spexman

jonathanwilliamporte said:


> Another question regarding the Arcana:
> 
> I'm part of a Criterion Collection forum, and I was asking the group if it was worth upgrading a particular film and mentioned the Polaris. Another projector user asked how I was planning to deal with the inherent tone mapping issues projectors have with hdr10 content, and I mentioned the Arcana, to which he replied: "that device is just extracting audio out, that's pretty much it. it doesn't perform any tonemapping."
> 
> I'm definitely a projector noob, so I apologize if this has been addressed before, but I was curious how an audio device gives access to visual modifications. I didn't know how to respond to the guy...


The Arcana is an HDMI device that has both audio and video features to it. I personally purchased it for the SOLE purpose of enabling the Polaris to receive LLDV signals-I do not use any of its audio features. In a nutshell, the Arcana(and similar HDFury products) 'tell' the LLDV compatible player that indeed, they ARE connected to a display that is compatible with LLDV signals. Thus, the PLAYER does the tone mapping and sends the signal as an HDR10 compatible signal to the Polaris. Because the Polaris IS compatible with HDR10, it can receive that tone mapped signal. Please note, the Arcana is NOT doing the tone mapping. The Low Latency Dolby Vision(LLDV) compatible player is what does the tone mapping(be it a 4K Ultra HD player or a streaming box). However, the Arcana can guide it. The Arcana let's one set min and max luminance, and colour space. This info gets read by the source player, and the player takes this information into account when it tone maps. This allows perfect tweaking for each player and projector to achieve the optimum tone-mapped image. Truly, a fantastic product with exceptional results!


----------



## hifiand3dfan

Transepoch said:


> There's also various switches, splitters, processors, etc. that can send custom EDIDs (to tie or fudge content across displays of different capabilities.) Some are more easy to edit/customize than others, but would at least be able to clone an existing display chain or import an existing configuration of the proper format.


Can you point me to others than HDFury?
Looking for HDMI 2.1 8k / 4k120 capability in terms of signal processing. Only found HDFury Vrroom so far.

For my projector I do not need 2.1 of course.
At the minimum I need a splitter that can feed different outputs (including HDMI audio - discrete channels or encoded - to receiver) and force HDR. my current one falls back to 4k without HDR as soon as more than one device is connected.


----------



## triplington

Would a Dr HDMI 4k work as the lowest cost HDFury LLDV converter?. Streaming from a firestick 4k , through the Dr HDMI into polaris hdmi 2, audio from ARC hdmi 1 to my receiver. I'm assuming I'd loose tone mapping adjustment but does this really matter?


----------



## JackB

triplington said:


> Would a Dr HDMI 4k work as the lowest cost HDFury LLDV converter?. Streaming from a firestick 4k , through the Dr HDMI into polaris hdmi 2, audio from ARC hdmi 1 to my receiver. I'm assuming I'd loose tone mapping adjustment but does this really matter?


This would be great if it worked. The $300 to $500 price tag of the hdFury devices heavily discussed on this forum keeps me fro moving forward.


----------



## Transepoch

hifiand3dfan said:


> Can you point me to others than HDFury?
> Looking for HDMI 2.1 8k / 4k120 capability in terms of signal processing. Only found HDFury Vrroom so far.


I wasn't looking for either of those capabilities, so the VRROOM may be your best option. Just make sure your alternative has EDID management and check the manual for how it goes about it (most should keep HDR if all the output devices can handle it, otherwise you would need to memorize/freeze the capabilities, so it doesn't try to do highest-common-denominator analysis.)


----------



## arkaaya

Was looking for an affordable tri-laser UST projector. Started looking into the Vava Chroma, but stumbled onto the Bomaker Polaris and Fengmi T1. Spent the last week reading about both, and finally decided to go with the Bomaker. I think I can live with its shortcomings for the price difference. Thanks for all the great reviews & information in this thread. It helped me make an informed decision. 

Placed my order for the Polaris 4K today - $1470 after "30%OFF" coupon. And no taxes. Hope I get a good unit. Will test it for a week or two before I invest in an ALR screen.


----------



## spexman

Congratulations--you got a killer deal for sure....welcome aboard and all the best. May it meet and exceed your visual expectations!


----------



## nsxboy

Hey everyone. 

I’ve been a long time lurker first time poster on AVS Forum. I just finished reading through the 50+ pages on the Bomaker Polaris thread and I’m in the middle of building out my home theater setup in a new construction. After all the reading, I am finally close to pulling the trigger on one via Walmart and getting the All State buyer protection.

My current plan is to build out a dedicated media room (fully light controlled) with a 200in painted wall in grey (0.55 gain) or an 200in ALR screen from Silver Ticket STR-169200-AGS Silver Ticket, 200", 4K / 8K Ultra HD & HDR Ready, 16:9 Cinema Format, (6 Piece Fixed Frame) Projector Screen, AGP Dark Grey Material

My media sources I’ll be leveraging are: 
Kodi on Nvidia Shield Pro
Kaleidescape Premiere & Encore setup (bought used off craigslist).

Audio output: 
Vizio Elevate sound bar





Best Dolby Atmos Soundbars with DTS:X | VIZIO


Learn more about the Dolby Atmos Elevate Sound Bar and experience complete surround sound with easy setup and award-winning design. ✓ Discover it here!




www.vizio.com





I’ll only watch movies on this setup and some TV/Netflix, so no sports or any gaming. 

To date, I’ve sent a number of questions to Bomaker and similar to most folks here have gotten zero responses. I’m hoping that someone on the thread can provide some guidance and thoughts before jumping in on buying the Polaris. 
For the theater, I’m hoping to leverage the Bomaker to hit it’s maximum size at 200in. I’ve had a chance to read through the manual and despite claiming to be able to do so, doesn’t provide any detailed instructions on how to set it up for that maximum size. 

My questions are:


Has anyone on the forum successfully setup the Bomaker Polaris to 200in, and in a light controlled room, did it perform to your expectations. If so, any recommendations on setup, prep, type of screen used, would be greatly appreciated. (or any links to the forum pages that details their experience greatly appreciated)


What’s the distance between Bomaker Polaris port side to wall that was required in order to setup a 200in picture size? I am contemplating building a custom cabinet to house this unit and want to see if it’s feasible.

Thanks so much everyone for your advice and guidance for an AV noob! Any recommendations as I build out this theater would be greatly appreciated!!

Mike


----------



## arkaaya

nsxboy said:


> My questions are:
> 
> 
> Has anyone on the forum successfully setup the Bomaker Polaris to 200in, and in a light controlled room, did it perform to your expectations. If so, any recommendations on setup, prep, type of screen used, would be greatly appreciated. (or any links to the forum pages that details their experience greatly appreciated)
> 
> 
> What’s the distance between Bomaker Polaris port side to wall that was required in order to setup a 200in picture size? I am contemplating building a custom cabinet to house this unit and want to see if it’s feasible.


From what I read, Bomaker is a fixed focus lens and is sharpest at 90-110". Beyond 120" it starts to lose sharpness and after 150" the blur is obvious. Spexman posted that you will need an additional lens to regain focus for larger screens. If you want to know more, read his posts in the last few pages or PM him.

For a 200" image, I guess you will have to place the projector more than 2 feet away from the wall. IMO, a ceiling mount would be a better option at that distance.


----------



## spexman

arkaaya said:


> From what I read, Bomaker is a fixed focus lens and is sharpest at 90-110". Beyond 120" it starts to lose sharpness and after 150" the blur is obvious. Spexman posted that you will need an additional lens to regain focus for larger screens. If you want to know more, read his posts in the last few pages or PM him.
> 
> For a 200" image, I guess you will have to place the projector more than 2 feet away from the wall. IMO, a ceiling mount would be a better option at that distance.


I would concur with arkaaya's advice. One more thing to add--you mention a choice of 2 screens, with gains of .55 and .95. Though the Polaris puts out north of 2,000 calibrated lumens, a .55 gain screen effectively cuts that almost in half. A 200" screen is a lot of real estate to have to light up with the ~1,000 lumens that remain. All the best with your set up--definitely sounds exciting.


----------



## nsxboy

spexman said:


> I would concur with arkaaya's advice. One more thing to add--you mention a choice of 2 screens, with gains of .55 and .95. Though the Polaris puts out north of 2,000 calibrated lumens, a .55 gain screen effectively cuts that almost in half. A 200" screen is a lot of real estate to have to light up with the ~1,000 lumens that remain. All the best with your set up--definitely sounds exciting.


thanks Spexman. Anything you can share regarding expanding to 200in via a lens or the quality of blur at 200in without it?


----------



## arkaaya

nsxboy said:


> thanks Spexman. Anything you can share regarding expanding to 200in via a lens or the quality of blur at 200in without it?


A member posted a couple of pages back that the blur at 185 inches was unwatchable. 200" would be even worse. That said, spexman posted about getting great results for large sizes using a custom crafted lens with the Bomaker.


----------



## arsenalfc89

arkaaya said:


> Was looking for an affordable tri-laser UST projector. Started looking into the Vava Chroma, but stumbled onto the Bomaker Polaris and Fengmi T1. Spent the last week reading about both, and finally decided to go with the Bomaker. I think I can live with its shortcomings for the price difference. Thanks for all the great reviews & information in this thread. It helped me make an informed decision.
> 
> Placed my order for the Polaris 4K today - $1470 after "30%OFF" coupon. And no taxes. Hope I get a good unit. Will test it for a week or two before I invest in an ALR screen.


Wow that’s a good deal!


----------



## MRJAZZZ

Apparently that deal at 30% off isn't available as of today. On Bowmaker's sight they do however show another available coupon code for 20% off.
Any idea how long it takes to receive the Polaris from China, and if one doesn't like it what's the approximate costs to return?.


----------



## spexman

arkaaya said:


> A member posted a couple of pages back that the blur at 185 inches was unwatchable. 200" would be even worse. That said, spexman posted about getting great results for large sizes using a custom crafted lens with the Bomaker.


Once again, I am in accord with arkaaya. I have a 150" set up; the corners farthest from the projector(in my case, the lower ones as it is ceiling mounted) are very blurry, and the centre is noticeably blurry without the corrective lens. I can only imagine that at 200", those corners will be very mushy, and even the centre will suffer immensely. You cannot escape it, as the focus is set/fixed to about that 100" spot. If you are going through the effort to set all else up properly in your home theatre, a custom crafted lens is a must.


----------



## arkaaya

MRJAZZZ said:


> Apparently that deal at 30% off isn't available as of today. On Bowmaker's sight they do however show another available coupon code for 20% off.
> Any idea how long it takes to receive the Polaris from China, and if one doesn't like it what's the approximate costs to return?.


The 30% off is still available, I just checked.
Add the Polaris to the cart and apply the code "*30%OFF*".








They have a warehouse in US, it ships from there (not China). Mine shipped from REDMOND, WA the next day (after placing the order), via FedEx Home Delivery.

Don't know about returns though. Based on previous buyers experience, Bomaker is not great with service & support and getting a return approved/processed is quite difficult. Be aware of that before you purchase.


----------



## MRJAZZZ

Thanks for the feedback. Just purchased it. Used PayPal. If there's an issue I can probably leverage them for a refund .


----------



## MRJAZZZ

Arkaayya, please post if you get your Polaris in a timely fashion. I ordered mine Thursday ( July 7th) and it hasn't shipped yet. Two emails to Bowmaker have gone unanswered.
Perhaps they are out of stock as of this moment?


----------



## arkaaya

MRJAZZZ said:


> Arkaayya, please post if you get your Polaris in a timely fashion. I ordered mine Thursday ( July 7th) and it hasn't shipped yet. Two emails to Bowmaker have gone unanswered.
> Perhaps they are out of stock as of this moment?


Yes, I received mine. Got the shipping email the day after I ordered, it was picked up by FedEx the following day (2 days after order) and was delivered on time. No issues. I think you will get your shipping email today.

As mentioned before, Bomaker CS is not good (actually quite poor based on experiences posted on this forum), so I don't think they will reply to your emails.

The image is great in a light controlled room, projected onto a 120" white screen (not ALR). However, I am seeing some CA. Please see pics. Is this amount of CA normal? I don't think it can be adjusted, can it? 

The CA is most noticeable on static screen (like the menu). The CA is not visible (or noticeable) while watching a movie. Not even on the subtitles. But if I pause the movie then it can be seen around the white text in the subtitle. 

Trying to decide if I can live with it, or if I should ask for an exchange or refund.


----------



## MRJAZZZ

I have noticed this kind of Chromatic aberration on just about every projected display I have ever owned. As long as it doesn't cause issues on normal, day to day, viewing I wouldn't worry about it.
By the way have you noticed any "DLP RAINBOWS" on it yet? I can notice them on just about any DLP based display, however some are much less problematic than others.


----------



## spexman

MRJAZZZ said:


> I have noticed this kind of Chromatic aberration on just about every projected display I have ever owned. As long as it doesn't cause issues on normal, day to day, viewing I wouldn't worry about it.
> By the way have you noticed any "DLP RAINBOWS" on it yet? I can notice them on just about any DLP based display, however some are much less problematic than others.


I would agree with these comments about CA. It really does not affect my day to day viewing, so it is by no means a deal breaker for me. As far as rainbows, the Polaris has the least amount of RBE effect I have noticed compared to my three preivous DLPs. It is not zero, but very close.


----------



## arkaaya

MRJAZZZ said:


> I have noticed this kind of Chromatic aberration on just about every projected display I have ever owned. As long as it doesn't cause issues on normal, day to day, viewing I wouldn't worry about it.





spexman said:


> I would agree with these comments about CA. It really does not affect my day to day viewing, so it is by no means a deal breaker for me. As far as rainbows, the Polaris has the least amount of RBE effect I have noticed compared to my three preivous DLPs. It is not zero, but very close.


Thanks for the reassurances on the CA. It is mild and only shows up in static images, that too when viewed close. At viewing distances my wife didn't notice it until I pointed it out. I guess I can live with that. 

*ALR Screen Recommendations?*
Any recommendations for a 100" or 120" ALR screen? Amazon is having Prime Day sales and a few ALR screens are on sale at a discount. I am looking at the Wemax 100" ALR screen - anyone have any experience with it. I plan to use the Polaris in our living room with several windows (with light blocking blinds, of course) so there will be a some ambient light and am hoping that an ALR screen would mitigate that.



MRJAZZZ said:


> By the way have you noticed any "DLP RAINBOWS" on it yet? I can notice them on just about any DLP based display, however some are much less problematic than others.


I am very sensitive to DLP rainbows, it gives me a dull headache too - I found it in both the DLP projectors I tried (BenQ & Optoma) before I went with a Epson UB LCD for our main theater. My understanding is that the rainbow effect is due to the color wheel, and since the Polaris doesn't have a wheel (still can't believe how quite it is) I thought there wouldn't be rainbows. But I watched a move yesterday and I noticed rainbows a couple of times - mostly when I moved my head to look to the side. As @spexman said, it is very minimal, but it is there.


----------



## MRJAZZZ

I can't seem to find the distance specification from the bottom of the Polaris ( the cabinet or floor that it sits on) to the bottom of the viewable screen for a 100 inch image. Anyone have this information?
Thanks...


----------



## spexman

MRJAZZZ said:


> I can't seem to find the distance specification from the bottom of the Polaris ( the cabinet or floor that it sits on) to the bottom of the viewable screen for a 100 inch image. Anyone have this information?
> Thanks...


Here you go:


----------



## spexman

arkaaya said:


> *ALR Screen Recommendations?*
> Any recommendations for a 100" or 120" ALR screen? Amazon is having Prime Day sales and a few ALR screens are on sale at a discount. I am looking at the Wemax 100" ALR screen - anyone have any experience with it. I plan to use the Polaris in our living room with several windows (with light blocking blinds, of course) so there will be a some ambient light and am hoping that an ALR screen would mitigate that.


I am sorry I cannot be of help here; I have only used standard white screens in total light controlled environments--there is quite a lot of UST screen chat on the T1 forum--Humax seems to really know a lot about them!


----------



## MRJAZZZ

Thanks Spexman for the input, however that chart only shows the distance from the back of the Polaris to the front of the screen ( 10 inches for a 100 inch image). I also need how far the bottom of the Polaris is from the bottom of the actual visible area of the screen. It's probably close to 14 inches, or so.


----------



## MRJAZZZ

Addendum...unless the required distance is the same for all those screen sizes...ie: the bottom of the Polaris feet match the bottom edge of the visible screen area.


----------



## arkaaya

MRJAZZZ said:


> Addendum...unless the required distance is the same for all those screen sizes...ie: the bottom of the Polaris feet match the bottom edge of the visible screen area.


Yes, the bottom remains the same - I haven't measured exactly, but about 6 inches above the top of the projector would be my guess. You move the projector closer to the screen for smaller image, and away for larger image. Once you have the width & height approximately where you want, you fine tune by adjusting the leveling knobs on the four corners. I still haven't got mine perfectly square (or rectangle). The right side has a slope, if I adjust that the top width goes out of whack. Will do it right this weekend when I get my UST screen.


----------



## spexman

MRJAZZZ said:


> Addendum...unless the required distance is the same for all those screen sizes...ie: the bottom of the Polaris feet match the bottom edge of the visible screen area.


If you mean the 'vertical offset', which is the vertical distance from lens to bottom of screen(for a floor mount) I can measure that for you tonight--however, it is for a 150" screen.


----------



## MRJAZZZ

Received the Polaris. I have set up many, and mean many projectors over the years, but this thing is a major PAIN IN THE ASS, to set up. It really NEEDS DIGITAL KEYSTONE SOFTWARE.....BOWMAKER are you Listening????...Probably not.
Anyway after 4.5 hours of trying to get this thing aligned on my 100 inch VIVIDSTORM FLOOR RISING Screen, I called it a Day.
I am reasonably close but not quite there. If, and I emphasize, IF BOWMAKER were to implement Digital KEYSTONE SOFTWARE, they would have a very attractive UST at a very reasonable price
.
As it is now, it's a study in frustration.
To soon to comment on overall picture quality, but my limited experience with it tells me it has superb color , very sharp ( once projector is very close to proper alignment...and I am close, just not quite there....yet). Has excellent brightness, even during the day in my "moderately light controlled environment". Also no DLP Rainbows yet. Finally, zero "Coil Wine" and fan level is virtually non existent.
Not to beat on a dead horse but if they can implement DIGITAL KEYSTONE the Polaris would be a best buy at its current pricing. And for those thinking DIGITAL KEYSTONE will mess up the picture , I personally wouldn't worry about it. There are over 8 million pixels in a 4K projector (even with pixel shifting....I am no "techie", so if am wrong here, please chime in.)
Anyway with over 8 million pixels, and after using DIGITAL KEYSTONE, that number would be reduced, but even it were reduced 4 or 5 hundred thousand, I seriously doubt anyone would notice it.


----------



## MRJAZZZ

Can anyone chime in if adding a HD FURY Arcana would offer any benefits with non DV material? 
I presume if one wanted to try it, you just insert it between the AVR OUTPUT and the Polaris, that way all your connected sources (streaming sticks, Blue Ray player, etc.) would benefit. 
Finally is it complicated to set up for a novice?
Thanks. .


----------



## spexman

MRJAZZZ said:


> Can anyone chime in if adding a HD FURY Arcana would offer any benefits with non DV material?
> I presume if one wanted to try it, you just insert it between the AVR OUTPUT and the Polaris, that way all your connected sources (streaming sticks, Blue Ray player, etc.) would benefit.
> Finally is it complicated to set up for a novice?
> Thanks. .


Devices like the Roku Ultra, ATV and Sony X700 allow non DV material to be sent out as LLDV, and so yes, with the Arcana in use, you get the benefits of tone mapping in the player. I currently use the X700 and the Arcana with excellent results for both DV and HDR10 material(all sent out as LLDV). And yes, you are correct, I have mine at the AVR output, allowing all devices to benefit. I believe the Arcana is the easiest of the HDFury LLDV devices to set up--it is very simple and straight forward. Happy to help if you need it.
For more on this, please see:








Bomaker Polaris 4K Ultra Short Throw Laser TV


Thank you Spexman, if you don't mind, so as not to pollute the topic, I'll send you a PM :D




www.avsforum.com


----------



## MRJAZZZ

Thanks Spexman for replying. So if I am watching SDR content like a football game, or a news show, from a Streaming stick, and with the Arcana in place, I will have a noticeably better picture? And can you elaborate what will be "better" about it,....ie: more contrast, more vibrant, " punchy "..,etc.
Thanks...


----------



## spexman

MRJAZZZ said:


> Thanks Spexman for replying. So if I am watching SDR content like a football game, or a news show, from a Streaming stick, and with the Arcana in place, I will have a noticeably better picture? And can you elaborate what will be "better" about it,....ie: more contrast, more vibrant, " punchy "..,etc.
> Thanks...


I cannot comment on SDR content. I let SDR content play as SDR. I don't see a need to have it 'altered' to DV(SDR looks fantastic as is, once the Polaris is calibrated properly). Keep in mind that the Arcana does NO processing--the player does. The Arcana simply tells the player that it is connected to a DV enabled projector and the player then processes and sends the content as LLDV. Remember, LLDV is an HDR format. Any HDR format needs to be tone mapped to be rendered properly for each display's capabilities. The Arcana, via its settings, tells the player the Polaris' capabilities, and the player tone maps the HDR10 or DV signal accordingly and effectively for the Polaris. Thus, white blowout and black crushing is minimized. Hope that helps.


----------



## MRJAZZZ

*Mr. SPEXMAN, thanks again for your reply.
I will be ordering an Arcana shortly. 
I currently have the following streamer sticks.
Tivo, Prime, Chromecast, Roku. Have been thinking about adding an Apple TV, and a Nvidia Shield ( not the pro).
Once I insert the Arcana, is there a menu that appears on the screen, or do you have to download an app, etc.. 
Any simple set up tips would be appreciated. *


----------



## spexman

MRJAZZZ said:


> *Mr. SPEXMAN, thanks again for your reply.
> I will be ordering an Arcana shortly.
> I currently have the following streamer sticks.
> Tivo, Prime, Chromecast, Roku. Have been thinking about adding an Apple TV, and a Nvidia Shield ( not the pro).
> Once I insert the Arcana, is there a menu that appears on the screen, or do you have to download an app, etc..
> Any simple set up tips would be appreciated. *


THere is a very simple OLED menu on the device itself. It is a little cumbersome, but it is easy enough to use. I have found the best settings, so it is basically set it once and forget it. It really is quite self explanatory once you get it.


----------



## MRJAZZZ

Do you have any suggested settings that I can try?


----------



## spexman

MRJAZZZ said:


> Do you have any suggested settings that I can try?


See this post--you will find them at the bottom.








Bomaker Polaris 4K Ultra Short Throw Laser TV


Amazing price. Do they have any more?




www.avsforum.com


----------



## MRJAZZZ

Thanks, will check it out. Any thoughts on the HD Furry Vertex2? It's more expensive, however if it can yield better results I will consider it.


----------



## spexman

MRJAZZZ said:


> Thanks, will check it out. Any thoughts on the HD Furry Vertex2? It's more expensive, however if it can yield better results I will consider it.


There has been discussion on other forums on this. I have no experience with it; I know it allows more extensive tweakability, but as far as my needs are concerned, and the results it produces, the Arcana is superb.


----------



## arkaaya

Posting an update about my ALR screen experience. 

The image on the ALR screen was much better than projecting onto a painted wall or plain screen, but just didn't work in my situation. My living room has too many windows and too much light. Even with room darkening shades on the windows, the light coming from the adjacent grand room made the picture look washed out. 

Also, there was a small vertical ripple in the center of the screen that I just couldn't adjust to make it go away. I think the screen would be great in a partially light controlled room and could be a TV replacement.

So, I am returning the screen and getting an 85" TV for my living room. The Bomaker will replace the 7-year Epson 5020UB in my Home Theater.


----------



## MRJAZZZ

What kind of screen are you using in your dedicated Home Theater room?


----------



## arkaaya

MRJAZZZ said:


> What kind of screen are you using in your dedicated Home Theater room?


It is a Screen Innovations fixed 120" with a white screen, came with the house when we bought it.

I am having the hardest time getting the Bomaker to project square onto the screen  ...... I really wish it had key stone adjustment. Or maybe I am doing something wrong. Might have to DIY an adjustable stand for the projector.

Returned the ALR screen and got a Sony 85" X91J for the living room. Got a great deal for it with 7 years warranty (2 years manufacturer, 3 years extended and 2 additional years from Costco Visa card) - on clearance at local Costco as they got the new 2022 models in.


----------



## JackB

arkaaya said:


> It is a Screen Innovations fixed 120" with a white screen, came with the house when we bought it.
> 
> I am having the hardest time getting the Bomaker to project square onto the screen  ...... I really wish it had key stone adjustment. Or maybe I am doing something wrong. Might have to DIY an adjustable stand for the projector.
> 
> Returned the ALR screen and got a Sony 85" X91J for the living room. Got a great deal for it with 7 years warranty (2 years manufacturer, 3 years extended and 2 additional years from Costco Visa card) - on clearance at local Costco as they got the new 2022 models in.


I used the instructions in the Owner's Manual to alighn the projector. The instructions are very good and worked like a charm. Have you looked at them?


----------



## Slion

Did they deliver the promised 3D OTA update? Can't find any review looking into 3D capabilities. Can you manually change format to 3D SBS and TAB? Does it detect 3D signal from BD players and enable it automatically? Does it support IR remote?

The newer Hisense PX1-PRO which looks like it shares the same chassis sadly does not support 3D.


----------



## spexman

There has not been a 3D update as far as I know. There are NO menu settings that are for 3D. I do not believe it supports IR remote control--just bluetooth(someone please correct me if I am wrong here).


----------



## Slion

This German website mentions that it supports 3D. But taking a closer look it seems this is about BOMAKER Polaris 4k-2, possibly a new variant then? I'll be keeping an eye on that.


----------



## spexman

Slion said:


> This German website mentions that it supports 3D. But taking a closer look it seems this is about BOMAKER Polaris 4k-2, possibly a new variant then. I'll be keeping an eye on that.


Have not heard of a -2 model, though that would be magnificent if it could up the ante on black level and include 3D for those who require it....the website link you posted has a lot of contradictory information on it, so I would take it with a grain of salt....as of now, I assure you the 'regular' Polaris does NOT support 3D.


----------



## Slion

spexman said:


> the website link you posted has a lot of contradictory information on it


Yeah, it's either a leak or just rubbish from that reseller. MediaMarkt is the number one tech high street shop in Germany, together with Saturn which is in fact the same company. Unsurprisingly Saturn has the same listing on their website.

I too thought the 3D feature was just added there by mistake until I noticed that "4K-2" detail which makes it look more like a genuine leak.


----------



## hypnotoad2500

spexman said:


> There has not been a 3D update as far as I know. There are NO menu settings that are for 3D. I do not believe it supports IR remote control--just bluetooth(someone please correct me if I am wrong here).


 The Polaris actually supports IR signals from the remote. It uses Bluetooth by default, but the remote can be switched to IR. Once switched, you can even train learning remotes to send those signals to the projector.


----------



## spexman

Thank you for this excellent piece of information! Any chance you can elaborate as to how it is accomplished?


----------



## hypnotoad2500

spexman said:


> Thank you for this excellent piece of information! Any chance you can elaborate as to how it is accomplished?


You just need to hold the menu button for 10 secs on the remote to switch modes. It actually says how to do this in their product manual on page 26. I attached a pic of it here.


----------



## spexman

hypnotoad2500 said:


> You just need to hold the menu button for 10 secs on the remote to switch modes. It actually says how to do this in their product manual on page 26. I attached a pic of it here.
> View attachment 3315733


Well, THANK YOU! I read the manual, but obviously not closely enough! I missed that little part tucked in there! Really nice to know for those with Learning/Universal IR remotes!!!! Much appreciated!


----------



## Slion

hypnotoad2500 said:


> The Polaris actually supports IR signals from the remote. It uses Bluetooth by default, but the remote can be switched to IR. Once switched, you can even train learning remotes to send those signals to the projector.


Good to know, now it's only missing 3D 😁 I'll definitely keep an eye on that brand to see what they release in the future. After another long research I finally just ordered an Epson LS500 and one of those motorized Vividstrom screens. To start with I'll set it up so that the screen rolls out in front of the TV and the projector can be moved aside when not needed. Hopefully that will be a setup to enjoy the best of both worlds. Let's see how that goes.
At less than €2200 I could source a new and rather cheap LS500 directly from Epson. I reckon they will launch a new model soon as it seems they are phasing out this one. I'll probably upgrade it to some RGB laser in a couple of years or whenever we have some affordable ones which are quiet and doing 3D.


----------



## spexman

*Achieving Optimal Focus for Larger Screens - 130"*

In a previous post(Bomaker Polaris 4K Ultra Short Throw Laser TV), I posted before and after photos utilizing specially fabricated lenses to achieve optimal focus for 150" and 170" screens. Below is the result for a 130" screen, again, from a fellow AVSer who was kind enough to send his results(thank you!). Recall, the Polaris is a fixed focus projector, achieving optimum focus at around 100". And so, even at 130", the image is sufficiently blurry and thus benefits greatly from an accessory lens to achieve razor sharp focus across the screen, particularly in the upper corners(for a table mount) where focus suffers the most. Looking at the photos below, it is easy to see the improvement in focus. The availability of accessory lenses gives Polaris users the option to increase screen size and still maintain a super sharp image corner to corner. 

*Before











After







*


----------



## triplington

So where can we get these lens from, I would be interested in the 130" lens.


----------



## Mallorca

triplington said:


> So where can we get these lens from, I would be interested in the 130" lens.


me too


----------



## spexman

I have sent you both PMs--and any others who are interested, please feel free to PM me.


----------



## JackB

Does anyone have the manual that came with my Polaris a year ago that showed how to adjust the four legs for initial alignment of the projector. It worked like a charm I thought but it seems they have removed those instructions from the current on-line manual. Could one of you early owners check your manual and see if you canfind those instructions? If you can, they were about 3-4 pages I think, could you use your phone and photograph them for me? I would appreciate it a lot.


----------



## spexman

JackB said:


> Does anyone have the manual that came with my Polaris a year ago that showed how to adjust the four legs for initial alignment of the projector. It worked like a charm I thought but it seems they have removed those instructions from the current on-line manual. Could one of you early owners check your manual and see if you canfind those instructions? If you can, they were about 3-4 pages I think, could you use your phone and photograph them for me? I would appreciate it a lot.


Here you go JackB--sorry the quality is not great--did them quickly this morning for you via an old cell phone--hopefully they suffice for you:


----------



## JackB

Thank you Spexman. I wonder why they don’t have this in the on-line manual. I found them invaluable in setting up my Polaris when I had it. I’m going to be installing the new Formovie T1 and I can’t alighn it easily I will use these with two added feet.


----------



## spexman

JackB said:


> Thank you Spexman. I wonder why they don’t have this in the on-line manual. I found them invaluable in setting up my Polaris when I had it. I’m going to be installing the new Formovie T1 and I can’t alighn it easily I will use these with two added feet.


You are welcome....glad I can help....good luck with aligning the T1!


----------



## spexman

Also, I have noticed a lot of discussion/controversy on the T1 forum about LLDV--JackB, I can tell you that for the three of my sources, Sony X700, Sheild Pro, and Roku Ultra, the settings on both my Arcana and the Polaris do not change, and all 3 produce consistently beautiful tone mapped LLDV images. And that applies to whether I am streaming or playing UHD Blurays. I don't see why the same would not apply to the T1....


----------



## JackB

spexman said:


> You are welcome....glad I can help....good luck with aligning the T1!


I hopeI don't need the instructions for the T1. I find it amazing that with all the difficulty most find aligning a 3 leg UST that they all don't offer 4 legs like the Polaris. I found the 4 legs necessary to get the corners square. With the T1, if necessary, I'm going to figure out how to create rear adjustable legs for the alignment.


----------



## JackB

spexman said:


> Also, I have noticed a lot of discussion/controversy on the T1 forum about LLDV--JackB, I can tell you that for the three of my sources, Sony X700, Sheild Pro, and Roku Ultra, the settings on both my Arcana and the Polaris do not change, and all 3 produce consistently beautiful tone mapped LLDV images. And that applies to whether I am streaming or playing UHD Blurays. I don't see why the same would not apply to the T1....


If I had been able to get better contrast out of the Bomaker than I had with my old Runco that it was repacing, I would have kept it. The colors were really great. Also, I'm not sure if I had the 4K turned on as later on, I think, it was posted that there was a setting for 4K native display. Not sure.


----------



## spexman

JackB said:


> I hopeI don't need the instructions for the T1. I find it amazing that with all the difficulty most find aligning a 3 leg UST that they all don't offer 4 legs like the Polaris. I found the 4 legs necessary to get the corners square. With the T1, if necessary, I'm going to figure out how to create rear adjustable legs for the alignment.


sounds cool...good luck!


----------



## spexman

JackB said:


> If I had been able to get better contrast out of the Bomaker than I had with my old Runco that it was repacing, I would have kept it. The colors were really great. Also, I'm not sure if I had the 4K turned on as later on, I think, it was posted that there was a setting for 4K native display. Not sure.


Though contrast is not its strongest quality, it is adequate for me with High Dynamic laser dimming engaged(which operates transparently). This more than doubles its native contrast. Would I be happier with more? Absolutely! That being said, it does so many things so very well once calibrated, I still thoroughly enjoy the consistent cinematic images it puts out.


----------



## hypnotoad2500

spexman said:


> *Achieving Optimal Focus for Larger Screens - 130"*
> 
> In a previous post(Bomaker Polaris 4K Ultra Short Throw Laser TV), I posted before and after photos utilizing specially fabricated lenses to achieve optimal focus for 150" and 170" screens. Below is the result for a 130" screen, again, from a fellow AVSer who was kind enough to send his results(thank you!). Recall, the Polaris is a fixed focus projector, achieving optimum focus at around 100". And so, even at 130", the image is sufficiently blurry and thus benefits greatly from an accessory lens to achieve razor sharp focus across the screen, particularly in the upper corners(for a table mount) where focus suffers the most. Looking at the photos below, it is easy to see the improvement in focus. The availability of accessory lenses gives Polaris users the option to increase screen size and still maintain a super sharp image corner to corner.
> 
> *Before
> View attachment 3330084
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After
> View attachment 3330085
> *


I actually took my unit apart recently to fix a fan that kept turning off. I noticed the lens has a foil sticker/tape covering a focus wheel. I haven't tried it, but I'm pretty sure you can focus it like that too. And a big plus is it's very straightforward taking off the cover. Just remove all the screws and it almost comes off itself. Anyone with any experience opening devices will have no issues. (just make sure you disconnect the cover cables before completely yanking the cover away


----------



## spexman

I have heard that there may be an internal focus wheel.....to my knowledge, no one has absolutely confirmed it...many of us are not so savvy/brave enough to take the cover off to do such an adjustment. An add on lens is very easy with no risk.

btw...did you end up fixing the fan issue?


----------



## JackB

Spexman,

I have downloaded the User Manual for the Polaris and the alignment adjustment pictures and instructions, pages 10-14, are definetely not in the current manual. Were the pictures you photographed in an earlier version of the User Manual or maybe a separate document? Here is the downloadable User Manual:



https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0151/1437/1172/files/Polaris_4K_TV---_User_Manual.pdf?v=1619493330


----------



## hypnotoad2500

spexman said:


> I have heard that there may be an internal focus wheel.....to my knowledge, no one has absolutely confirmed it...many of us are not so savvy/brave enough to take the cover off to do such an adjustment. An add on lens is very easy with no risk.
> 
> btw...did you end up fixing the fan issue?


Yeah, it was such a dumb issue. So one of the fans on the left (That blows into the heatsink) would start up, then makes a chirp noise and stop running. It would then turn on and off periodically. The projector turned itself off (with a red led blinking ) due to overheating, prompting me to fix the fan. I first tried changing the fan, but found out it was the board cutting the power. I then spliced that fan with a working fan's cable, which worked, but the projector turned itself off when it didn't see the reading from the "missing" fan. Then I fixed that by reconnecting the yellow wire back to the original bad port so it sees that the fan is on. Really annoying, but it's been working perfectly ever since. (Over a month)


----------



## spexman

JackB said:


> Spexman,
> 
> I have downloaded the User Manual for the Polaris and the alignment adjustment pictures and instructions, pages 10-14, are definetely not in the current manual. Were the pictures you photographed in an earlier version of the User Manual or maybe a separate document? Here is the downloadable User Manual:
> 
> 
> 
> https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0151/1437/1172/files/Polaris_4K_TV---_User_Manual.pdf?v=1619493330


They were from the manual included with the projector, which differs from the online manual--not sure why that is....


----------



## spexman

hypnotoad2500 said:


> Yeah, it was such a dumb issue. So one of the fans on the left (That blows into the heatsink) would start up, then makes a chirp noise and stop running. It would then turn on and off periodically. The projector turned itself off (with a red led blinking ) due to overheating, prompting me to fix the fan. I first tried changing the fan, but found out it was the board cutting the power. I then spliced that fan with a working fan's cable, which worked, but the projector turned itself off when it didn't see the reading from the "missing" fan. Then I fixed that by reconnecting the yellow wire back to the original bad port so it sees that the fan is on. Really annoying, but it's been working perfectly ever since. (Over a month)


Nicely done and thank you for sharing that with us, in case it may be a common issue..much appreciated!


----------



## csrtopo

valdis.l said:


> Hola a todos,
> 
> Finalmente tuvo algo de tiempo para actualizar un Polaris 4k: ventiladores silenciosos BeQuiet Pure Wings de 92 mm. Sin embargo, después de abrir el proyector, descubrí que tienen diferentes tipos de conectores, uno pequeño frente al "estándar" que se usa en las computadoras. Necesitará un adaptador para adaptarse a nuevos ventiladores.
> 
> Para aquellos que puedan estar interesados, aquí hay fotos de "lo que hay dentro"
> 
> [ADJUNTAR=completo]3259016[/ADJUNTAR]
> 
> 
> 
> Álbum aquí Polaris 4K
> 
> Disfrutar
> [/COTIZAR]
> 
> 
> [/COTIZAR][/COTIZAR]
> 
> Hola a todos. Esperando un Polaris estoy hoy. Si no recuerdo mal, en las fotos del Hisense L5 que abrió una colega, cuando levantas el papel satinado con un cúter, se puede ver la rueda de enfoque y se puede enfocar cada uno a su tamaño de pantalla.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Polaris 4K
> 
> 
> Internals
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ibb.co


----------



## ConnorsDad

hypnotoad2500 said:


> I actually took my unit apart recently to fix a fan that kept turning off. I noticed the lens has a foil sticker/tape covering a focus wheel. I haven't tried it, but I'm pretty sure you can focus it like that too. And a big plus is it's very straightforward taking off the cover. Just remove all the screws and it almost comes off itself. Anyone with any experience opening devices will have no issues. (just make sure you disconnect the cover cables before completely yanking the cover away


Could you take a photo of the focus ring the next time you have your unit apart?


----------



## triplington

I have adjusted the internal focus for a 130" screen, here's some photos and description. This is reasonably straight forward and quick to do. You'll need a small Phillips PH0 screw driver and a regular PH2. As always you do this at your own risk.
Unplug the power and mark the setup position of the projector if you haven't already. Unplug all connections.
Remove the 12 self tapping screws in the base.










On the back panel, remove the 6 self tappers and 1 machine screw in the middle of the connectors and remove the panel.








Lift the lid, but be careful there are 2 sets of wires connected to the lid that you have to reach in and disconnect (blue arrows). The connectors have locking tabs, so don't just pull on the wires. Pinch the top of the connector to unlock the tab then they should pull out easily.








The focus adjustment is under the silver foil (yellow arrow). You might be able to get away with just lifting the long strip that goes down the side, but I just removed the whole tape.
The focus wheel is locked by a small PH0 screw (yellow arrow, next photo). Loosen this to allow the ring to turn. I had white marks showing the factory setting. There's a second ring with a serrated edge and a locking tab. I don't know what that is for (zoom maybe? ) I did not touch it. The blue arrows show how much I moved the ring by to focus on a 130" screen. The ring is moved with the small handle just left of the arrows.










To make the adjustment the projector has to be power up and aligned on the screen. I think the lid wires need to be connected, I did not try turning the projector on without them. The wires are taped to the lid, so I removed the first line of tape and that gave me enough wire to reconnect them with the lid lying behind the projector. I reconnected the signal input and power cable then placed the projector back in front of the screen.









I moved the focus back and forth until I got an overall focus I was happy with. I found that going too far was more obvious, softening the center of the screen, than the upper corners, ymmv.
When you are happy, reassembly is just the reverse. Remember to retighten the locking screw and I had to disconnect the wires again to re-tape them to the lid. The screws are self tappers into plastic, don't over tighten.
There was a very noticeable improvement in overall sharpness and well worth the relatively simple effort.


----------



## ConnorsDad

triplington said:


> I have adjusted the internal focus for a 130" screen, here's some photos and description. This is reasonably straight forward and quick to do. You'll need a small Phillips PH0 screw driver and a regular PH2. As always you do this at your own risk.
> Unplug the power and mark the setup position of the projector if you haven't already. Unplug all connections.
> Remove the 12 self tapping screws in the base.
> 
> View attachment 3337844
> 
> 
> On the back panel, remove the 6 self tappers and 1 machine screw in the middle of the connectors and remove the panel.
> View attachment 3337845
> 
> Lift the lid, but be careful there are 2 sets of wires connected to the lid that you have to reach in and disconnect (blue arrows). The connectors have locking tabs, so don't just pull on the wires. Pinch the top of the connector to unlock the tab then they should pull out easily.
> View attachment 3337849
> 
> The focus adjustment is under the silver foil (yellow arrow). You might be able to get away with just lifting the long strip that goes down the side, but I just removed the whole tape.
> The focus wheel is locked by a small PH0 screw (yellow arrow, next photo). Loosen this to allow the ring to turn. I had white marks showing the factory setting. There's a second ring with a serrated edge and a locking tab. I don't know what that is for (zoom maybe? ) I did not touch it. The blue arrows show how much I moved the ring by to focus on a 130" screen. The ring is moved with the small handle just left of the arrows.
> 
> View attachment 3337850
> 
> 
> To make the adjustment the projector has to be power up and aligned on the screen. I think the lid wires need to be connected, I did not try turning the projector on without them. The wires are taped to the lid, so I removed the first line of tape and that gave me enough wire to reconnect them with the lid lying behind the projector. I reconnected the signal input and power cable then placed the projector back in front of the screen.
> View attachment 3337883
> 
> 
> I moved the focus back and forth until I got an overall focus I was happy with. I found that going too far was more obvious, softening the center of the screen, than the upper corners, ymmv.
> When you are happy, reassembly is just the reverse. Remember to retighten the locking screw and I had to disconnect the wires again to re-tape them to the lid. The screws are self tappers into plastic, don't over tighten.
> There was a very noticeable improvement in overall sharpness and well worth the relatively simple effort.


Thanks triplington! Great tutorial.


----------



## leo0111127

Great...


----------



## vulture

triplington said:


> I have adjusted the internal focus for a 130" screen, here's some photos and description. This is reasonably straight forward and quick to do. You'll need a small Phillips PH0 screw driver and a regular PH2. As always you do this at your own risk.
> Unplug the power and mark the setup position of the projector if you haven't already. Unplug all connections.
> Remove the 12 self tapping screws in the base.


Many thanks for putting this together, I adjusted the focus on my unit also even though I am using a 100" ALR (Vava) screen, the wheel was moved about 3-4mm and the results are visibly better. Also, I did try the effect of the other adjustment ring but could not see any difference and just returned it to the already factory marked position. I have a slight convergence issue where close up to the screen sharp edges have a tiny red shadow and was hoping that this second wheel can help me improve it.

Anyhow, great write up and this guide makes an already great projector even more awesome!

V


----------



## galego100

Hello , will arcana work with oppo 203 , to FULL BD Dolby vision ? Or with Chinoppo...


----------



## spexman

This is from the HD Fury website(and it would include the Arcana):


----------



## galego100

spexman said:


> This is from the HD Fury website(and it would include the Arcana):
> View attachment 3347625


So if i have a projector which doesn´t support DV , with Arcana+Oppo i will able to see benefits with Full UHD DV on the projector? It will convert the sinal for DV onto the projector?


----------



## spexman

The projector must have HDR10 support(the Polaris does). The Arcana 'tells' the player that it is connected to a DV capable display and thus the player decodes the DV information and sends it to the display as HDR10. So, yes, Arcana + Oppo 203/205 would allow the Polaris to show DV material.


----------



## avdvplus

IanLaurie said:


> Okay….
> so with these settings I finally sat down to watch a few things. But right away something was off for me as bright orange became a deep red. At that’s not just me, but my son (9) actually asked me why our team had red jerseys on. Having said that, many many aspects of the colour are much improved. So now I have a hybrid of my settings, and spexman’s settings. I feel like I am really getting better results. I also felt like everything white was yellow and this may be due to screen material. So here are my Frankenstein settings for those of you who would like to try them.
> 
> SDR
> Brightness 52
> Contrast 55
> Saturation 43
> Gamma dark
> Color temp hot
> White balance
> R gain 128
> R offset 128
> G gain 110
> G offset 128
> B gain 101
> B offset 128
> Colour adjustment
> Red tone 45
> Red sat 54
> Red bright 43
> all others refer to spexman’s settings
> Hdr
> Bright 48
> Contrast 55
> Sat 42
> White balance same as sdr except
> B gain 105
> Color adjustments same as sdr for red, use spexman’s adjustments for the rest.
> 
> huge thank you to spexman for his settings. Although Ive altered them I never would have got it to where it is without them. I’m not sure why the difference in settings, perhaps .6 alr vs 1.1 white screen. Maybe a little variation between models. But I am exceptionally happy with where I have ended up.


@IanLaurie, I know this post was done sometime ago but did you kept the Sharpness at "0" to eliminate the problem you encountered before or you have at "50" from the spexman's settings?

Thank you


----------



## earlosaurus

Not sure if the replacement dip chip part number has been discussed, but I can confirm that the one in mine is DLP470TPAFQN… easy to get to, also.


----------



## avdvplus

earlosaurus said:


> Not sure if the replacement dip chip part number has been discussed, but I can confirm that the one in mine is DLP470TPAFQN… easy to get to, also.


Do you know if this chip replacement was done because of chip shortage or is and update/upgrade?


----------



## Hans Satink

I enjoy my Polaris very much. But now there is one dead pixel  a white dot.

Does anyone know which DMD chip is inside the Polares en where to buy?


----------



## JackB

spexman said:


> This is from the HD Fury website(and it would include the Arcana):
> View attachment 3347625


Spexman,

On a LLDV thread using the EZCOO splitter for DV EDID one of the posters said he was getting forced LLDV on all sources, DV, HDR, and SDR on his Chromecast. So I ordered one and it's coming tonight. I'll test it and report back. It's important for me as my JVC has to be in HDR mode to do LLDV and so any SDR movies are over saturated. If this Chromecast works then the SDR stuff should look good.


----------



## spexman

JackB said:


> Spexman,
> 
> On a LLDV thread using the EZCOO splitter for DV EDID one of the posters said he was getting forced LLDV on all sources, DV, HDR, and SDR on his Chromecast. So I ordered one and it's coming tonight. I'll test it and report back. It's important for me as my JVC has to be in HDR mode to do LLDV and so any SDR movies are over saturated. If this Chromecast works then the SDR stuff should look good.


JackB, I appreciate the post--however, I am a little confused. To my understanding, the forcing of LLDV output on all content is an option that some playback devices have, like the ATV and the Roku Ultra. I do not know if the Chromecast has this option innately like the ATV and the Roku Ultra. If you are suggesting that the EZCOO splitter can force any LLDV capable output device to send out all content as LLDV, regardless if it has the innate ability to do so or not, than that is news to me for sure--and yes, would then hopefully send out your SDR material properly mapped within the Rec2020 envelop, so as to not oversaturate the colours!


----------



## JackB

spexman said:


> JackB, I appreciate the post--however, I am a little confused. To my understanding, the forcing of LLDV output on all content is an option that some playback devices have, like the ATV and the Roku Ultra. I do not know if the Chromecast has this option innately like the ATV and the Roku Ultra. If you are suggesting that the EZCOO splitter can force any LLDV capable output device to send out all content as LLDV, regardless if it has the innate ability to do so or not, than that is news to me for sure--and yes, would then hopefully send out your SDR material properly mapped within the Rec2020 envelop, so as to not oversaturate the colours!


Amazon is amazing. They delivered the CC in about three hours. That being said, it does have the ability to send out LLDV in its Settings. However, the Netflix picture is like 10% to 20% down in color saturation compared to my Panasonic UB420. I’m not sure why. I have worked with the Optimizer on the Penny but I don’t think that impacts color. Any idea where that comes from?


----------



## spexman

JackB said:


> Amazon is amazing. They delivered the CC in about three hours. That being said, it does have the ability to send out LLDV in its Settings. However, the Netflix picture is like 10% to 20% down in color saturation compared to my Panasonic UB420. I’m not sure why. I have worked with the Optimizer on the Penny but I don’t think that impacts color. Any idea where that comes from?


I don't have either of these units, so cannot comment for sure--it may simply be better processing/electronics in the Panny vs the CC..


----------



## jonathanwilliamporte

spexman said:


> This is from the HD Fury website(and it would include the Arcana):
> View attachment 3347625


 Dang. I have the Panasonic 420☹


----------



## earlspinkipad

avdvplus said:


> Do you know if this chip replacement was done because of chip shortage or is and update/upgrade?


Sorry… I meant replacement, for if you get stuck pixels, or something. The new chip that replaces this one is not compatible.


----------



## earlspinkipad

Hans Satink said:


> I enjoy my Polaris very much. But now there is one dead pixel  a white dot.
> 
> Does anyone know which DMD chip is inside the Polares en where to buy?


DLP470TPAFQN… I could only find it direct from TI, for almost $250. And they aren’t making any more, so when they’re gone, they’re gone… you have to set up an account, and answer a few of questions about your company… I just said I was a repair guy.


----------



## sidery22

Hello Have you polarized colors on this projector?


----------



## JackB

sidery22 said:


> Hello Have you polarized colors on this projector?


What is polarizing colors?


----------



## sidery22

Colors are flashy.


----------



## spexman

The Polaris has one of the largest colour gamuts of any display device currently available. Once calibrated, the colours look vivid, natural and accurate. Colour rendition is a BIG strength of the Polaris.


----------



## sidery22

I had to decrease your settings to get a more natural image. I also take note that the colour correction have a minimum effect comparing to the gamma correction. I had to do that because otherwise the colours are polarised like as you put a polarising filter on you camera.


----------



## spexman

As noted in my review, the Polaris displays everything in Rec2020--it could be that you are feeding it signals in Rec709 which the Polaris then maps to Rec2020, resulting in oversaturation, and thus, the need to decrease the Saturation setting. It is best to try to feed it Rec2020 signals, that way, the saturation will be correct. I never have 'polarizing colours'.


----------



## sidery22

Thanks Spexman, but how to proceed to feed it Rec2020 signals?


----------



## leo0111127

spexman said:


> As noted in my review, the Polaris displays everything in Rec2020--it could be that you are feeding it signals in Rec709 which the Polaris then maps to Rec2020, resulting in oversaturation, and thus, the need to decrease the Saturation setting. It is best to try to feed it Rec2020 signals, that way, the saturation will be correct. I never have 'polarizing colours'.


The projector has to provide the WCG(wide color gamut) toggle switch like as AWOL does when u want the projector to display the input signal's original color gamut(rec 709 or dci p3).


----------



## sidery22

I feed it with a Zidoo in 4:2:2, an Apple TV set at 4:2:2 and a UHD player Sony 700


----------



## spexman

This topic has been covered in the past--the Apple TV CAN be forced to output everything in Rec2020--not sure of the other two devices.
For more information, start reading at this post:








Bomaker Polaris 4K Ultra Short Throw Laser TV


I got one photo that pretty well shows the difference between the T1 and the Polaris. Keep in mind, the T1 is about $600-800 more expensive then the Polaris on sale, so this isn’t meant to be some kind of shade thrown at the Polaris! It’s an exceptional value and has the widest most accurate...




www.avsforum.com





And btw...the Polaris, unfortunately does NOT have a toggle to allow us to swtich between Colour Spaces


----------



## jonathanwilliamporte

earlosaurus said:


> Not sure if the replacement dip chip part number has been discussed, but I can confirm that the one in mine is DLP470TPAFQN… easy to get to, also.


How do you replace this? I just got a dead pixel today☹


----------



## earlspinkipad

jonathanwilliamporte said:


> How do you replace this? I just got a dead pixel today☹


Remove the screws from the bottom and back of the case, and remove the cover, and back panel.
Then remove the board at the back, making note of all the connectors.

From there, you can unscrew the heat sink, and then the retaining hardware.
(4 spring loaded screws for the heat sink, and behind that, another 4 spring loaded screws for the retaining parts)
Be very careful of the black chip with contact pins on them, as they are VERY delicate (I’m glad a had access to a powerful microscope, or I would have been buying a new one of those, too hehehe)

Pay close attention to how the parts are placed, when you take them off (some of the parts are held together by one another, rather than individually mounted).

you then just need to clean off the thermal paste from the heat sink, and re-apply new paste.
Install the new chip, and reassemble. (The dlp chip, and contact wafer, are clear what the orientation should be, but it might not be too hard to reverse them, if you were distracted)

if you can replace a cpu in a computer (or equivalent), you should have no problems with this, provided you pay enough attention to how it all came apart.
If you have never done anything like that before, you can PROBABLY do it, but you may want to enlist the help of someone with experience, or at least watch some YouTube videos on replacing cpu, and heat sink.

sorry I didn’t take any pictures (it would have saved me some time in figuring out how to put the retaining hardware back together, since I DIDN’T pay enough attention 😉)

good luck.


----------



## spexman

earlspinkipad said:


> Remove the screws from the bottom and back of the case, and remove the cover, and back panel.
> Then remove the board at the back, making note of all the connectors.
> 
> From there, you can unscrew the heat sink, and then the retaining hardware.
> (4 spring loaded screws for the heat sink, and behind that, another 4 spring loaded screws for the retaining parts)
> Be very careful of the black chip with contact pins on them, as they are VERY delicate (I’m glad a had access to a powerful microscope, or I would have been buying a new one of those, too hehehe)
> 
> Pay close attention to how the parts are placed, when you take them off (some of the parts are held together by one another, rather than individually mounted).
> 
> you then just need to clean off the thermal paste from the heat sink, and re-apply new paste.
> Install the new chip, and reassemble. (The dlp chip, and contact wafer, are clear what the orientation should be, but it might not be too hard to reverse them, if you were distracted)
> 
> if you can replace a cpu in a computer (or equivalent), you should have no problems with this, provided you pay enough attention to how it all came apart.
> If you have never done anything like that before, you can PROBABLY do it, but you may want to enlist the help of someone with experience, or at least watch some YouTube videos on replacing cpu, and heat sink.
> 
> sorry I didn’t take any pictures (it would have saved me some time in figuring out how to put the retaining hardware back together, since I DIDN’T pay enough attention 😉)
> 
> good luck.


Wow, thank you for this excellent guide! It is very much appreciated!


----------



## earlspinkipad

Oh, I forgot to mention… there are four ribbon cables for the dmd, that are a bit tricky, and I’m not really sure how to describe what I was seeing… just be careful, go slow and methodically, until you see how it goes together. Once you know the trick, it should be pretty safe, but don’t just start pulling on them, as they don’t just pull straight out, like normal ribbon cables do.


----------



## jonathanwilliamporte

earlspinkipad said:


> Remove the screws from the bottom and back of the case, and remove the cover, and back panel.
> Then remove the board at the back, making note of all the connectors.
> 
> From there, you can unscrew the heat sink, and then the retaining hardware.
> (4 spring loaded screws for the heat sink, and behind that, another 4 spring loaded screws for the retaining parts)
> Be very careful of the black chip with contact pins on them, as they are VERY delicate (I’m glad a had access to a powerful microscope, or I would have been buying a new one of those, too hehehe)
> 
> Pay close attention to how the parts are placed, when you take them off (some of the parts are held together by one another, rather than individually mounted).
> 
> you then just need to clean off the thermal paste from the heat sink, and re-apply new paste.
> Install the new chip, and reassemble. (The dlp chip, and contact wafer, are clear what the orientation should be, but it might not be too hard to reverse them, if you were distracted)
> 
> if you can replace a cpu in a computer (or equivalent), you should have no problems with this, provided you pay enough attention to how it all came apart.
> If you have never done anything like that before, you can PROBABLY do it, but you may want to enlist the help of someone with experience, or at least watch some YouTube videos on replacing cpu, and heat sink.
> 
> sorry I didn’t take any pictures (it would have saved me some time in figuring out how to put the retaining hardware back together, since I DIDN’T pay enough attention 😉)
> 
> good luck.


Thanks for this! But wow, this sounds crazy complicated to me and I definitely don’t have a powerful microscope.


----------



## jonathanwilliamporte

Another thing I noticed is that after a while the dead pixel will disappear. But then it will reappear when I turn it on.


----------



## avdvplus

earlspinkipad said:


> Remove the screws from the bottom and back of the case, and remove the cover, and back panel.
> Then remove the board at the back, making note of all the connectors.
> 
> From there, you can unscrew the heat sink, and then the retaining hardware.
> (4 spring loaded screws for the heat sink, and behind that, another 4 spring loaded screws for the retaining parts)
> Be very careful of the black chip with contact pins on them, as they are VERY delicate (I’m glad a had access to a powerful microscope, or I would have been buying a new one of those, too hehehe)
> 
> Pay close attention to how the parts are placed, when you take them off (some of the parts are held together by one another, rather than individually mounted).
> 
> you then just need to clean off the thermal paste from the heat sink, and re-apply new paste.
> Install the new chip, and reassemble. (The dlp chip, and contact wafer, are clear what the orientation should be, but it might not be too hard to reverse them, if you were distracted)
> 
> if you can replace a cpu in a computer (or equivalent), you should have no problems with this, provided you pay enough attention to how it all came apart.
> If you have never done anything like that before, you can PROBABLY do it, but you may want to enlist the help of someone with experience, or at least watch some YouTube videos on replacing cpu, and heat sink.
> 
> sorry I didn’t take any pictures (it would have saved me some time in figuring out how to put the retaining hardware back together, since I DIDN’T pay enough attention 😉)
> 
> good luck.


Great instructions. Thank you for your contribution to this thread.

Question - Do you need a microscope to perform this change or you used it just to see the details of the parts? If you do need a microscope - which one do you recommend?

Thank you


----------



## earlspinkipad

No, you don’t need a microscope… I only did because I didn’t realize how delicate contact wires on the black wafer are, so was wiping off crumbs of thermal paste that fell on it, instead of blowing them off.
I only needed the microscope to straighten them out again.


----------



## avdvplus

earlspinkipad said:


> No, you don’t need a microscope… I only did because I didn’t realize how delicate contact wires on the black wafer are, so was wiping off crumbs of thermal paste that fell on it, instead of blowing them off.
> I only needed the microscope to straighten them out again.


Thank you. Good to know about how to clean those pins if needed.


----------



## JimmyOneCube

Been looking at this projector for a while now and I feel I need to bite the bullet given I can get it for $1649 thru Bomaker. Should I wait to see if Black Friday deal happens? I can't imagine it going for less. 

2nd question is what is the typical height from the top of the projector to bottom of a 100" screen. Its the one measurement I can't seem to find. 

appreciate any info and thoughts.


----------



## jonathan777

earlspinkipad said:


> No, you don’t need a microscope… I only did because I didn’t realize how delicate contact wires on the black wafer are, so was wiping off crumbs of thermal paste that fell on it, instead of blowing them off.
> I only needed the microscope to straighten them out again.


When I asked a local electronic repair store if they could repair this projector (i gave them the part number), this it s was they said:

_That’s a ball solder IC, I’ve had too much difficulty w/them in the past. We’ll pass on this repair. Don’t know who other than the manufacturer could do this, if even they will._

I just don't want to waste $250 on this part and then mess it up. Part of me wonders if I should try selling this projector for like a few hundred, and let somebody else fix it for themselves. Or do you think it's easy enough of a repair?


----------



## earlspinkipad

jonathan777 said:


> When I asked a local electronic repair store if they could repair this projector (i gave them the part number), this it s was they said:
> 
> _That’s a ball solder IC, I’ve had too much difficulty w/them in the past. We’ll pass on this repair. Don’t know who other than the manufacturer could do this, if even they will._
> 
> I just don't want to waste $250 on this part and then mess it up. Part of me wonders if I should try selling this projector for like a few hundred, and let somebody else fix it for themselves. Or do you think it's easy enough of a repair?


No soldering is required; it has a wafer with contacts, instead of solder balls. 
for me, it was worth the risk, but… that’s for each man to decide for himself.
It might be a good idea to take the cover off (being careful of the cables, as someone mentioned in the post about adjusting the focus… with pictures), and get a visual of what needs to be done, and THEN deciding if you want to proceed.

again… if you have experience with disassembling and reassembling electronic devices, it should be no problem… otherwise, you must judge your comfort level, based on all factors concerned. I can’t say you won’t screw it up, as I don’t know your skill set. I can only say that, for me, the work was very easy, and only the understanding of how it was built (or lack there of), gave me any discomfort.


----------



## jonathan777

earlspinkipad said:


> No soldering is required; it has a wafer with contacts, instead of solder balls.
> for me, it was worth the risk, but… that’s for each man to decide for himself.
> It might be a good idea to take the cover off (being careful of the cables, as someone mentioned in the post about adjusting the focus… with pictures), and get a visual of what needs to be done, and THEN deciding if you want to proceed.
> 
> again… if you have experience with disassembling and reassembling electronic devices, it should be no problem… otherwise, you must judge your comfort level, based on all factors concerned. I can’t say you won’t screw it up, as I don’t know your skill set. I can only say that, for me, the work was very easy, and only the understanding of how it was built (or lack there of), gave me any discomfort.


Yeah, I'm on the fence still. I might just sell it on Ebay and buy a Vava or something. Or maybe, I can just get used to the little white dot...


----------



## JimmyOneCube

Just received my unit and its amazing. Used Spexman's settings and it lovely. It is making me realize I need a higher quality screen but still very impressed. I do see the rainbow effect on white supers and apps in the Apple TV screen. Is there a way to diminish that? Also, I'm unable to change the Gamma in both SDR and HDR settings. Its greyed out each time. Appreciate any all info and suggestions.


----------



## spexman

Congratulations on your Polaris. To try and answer your questions--in terms of RBE, decreasing the brightness should help(though obviously at the expense of a less bright overall picture), and not moving your eyes around during scenes that can be prone to it(bright, black and white scenes). The gamma is greyed out for HDR mode, but should be accessible in SDR mode under the USER setting.


----------



## Brajesh

Curious if 3D was ever added?


----------



## JimmyOneCube

spexman said:


> Congratulations on your Polaris. To try and answer your questions--in terms of RBE, decreasing the brightness should help(though obviously at the expense of a less bright overall picture), and not moving your eyes around during scenes that can be prone to it(bright, black and white scenes). The gamma is greyed out for HDR mode, but should be accessible in SDR mode under the USER setting.


Thank you so much. Wondering if anyone can recommend a reasonably priced ALR screen. Fixed wall mount 100"


----------



## spexman

Brajesh said:


> Curious if 3D was ever added?


Brajesh--no, no 3D and I honestly do not expect it to be added ever--congrats on your second AWOL3500(shares a lot with the Polaris, so I can imagine how beautiful the image is that it puts out for you)--glad you were able to find a unit that ticks all your boxes.


----------



## spexman

JimmyOneCube said:


> Thank you so much. Wondering if anyone can recommend a reasonably priced ALR screen. Fixed wall mount 100"


You are welcome---I use a 1.1 gain matte white screen, so I cannot help you with ALR screen recommendations--I am sure you will get some tips from the enthusiasts on this thread and other UST projector threads.


----------



## Brajesh

Thanks @spexman, the similarities, including the remote, was why I was curious .


----------



## spexman

Brajesh said:


> Thanks @spexman, the similarities, including the remote, was why I was curious .


yes, if I am not mistaken, the remotes are identical--I do believe that 3D can be added via a firmware update, but seeing how there has not been an update in over a year, it is highly unlikely that it will be added. Should that change, (I do check for updates periodically), I will let you know.


----------



## 1jdh

I've had my Bomaker for just over a year....and a White Dot has appeared on my Screen. I see someone else in this thread had the same problem, did the issue ever get resolved. If anyone knows? there was talk about replacing a chip? Bomaker's resolve was to give me $200.00. Seems like a brush-off So Buyer's Beware. Nice Warranty Program for them.


----------



## spexman

Really sorry to hear about your white dot and that repsonse back from Bomaker....what about what they state on their website, right by the Polaris?








I would understand that just as it says--a 2 year warranty to fix any problems with the projector....


----------



## 1jdh

Thanks
Yes I've been back and forth with emails, to their warranty dept.
After about 6 emails or so the last one, I was an offered $ 200.00
( To basically "Go Away")

They said they never heard of a "white dot".

I noticed in one thread here, there was a reference to a chip I think it was
DLP470TPAFQN
Looks like TI is discontinuing it?
And only a few left in stock...
I wondering if I should buy one just for insurance, but I don't know if
it's the correct one. Would it say in the Bomaker Manual, I wonder?
or Specs anywhere?

I thought when I bought this 5,000,000 hours lifetime ( well maybe not 5,000,000)
it would last for years, haha
My Luck!


----------



## spexman

Hard to believe they have not heard of a 'white dot' as there have been several users on this thread with this issue, sadly. It appears to be a TI DLP issue, with micro-mirrors getting stuck on(white dot) or off(black dot)...similar white dot complaints have been voiced in the original T1 thread. I have also had several of my TI DLP projectors in the past exhibit such stuck micro-mirrors. Frustrating for sure.
If you are a techie and don't mind doing your own repairs, then yeah, go for it...there has been a member on this thread that has kindly given a step by step replacement guide.
Unforunately, when selling these products, much is said about the lifetime of the lasers....but that is not much use if the DLP device dies much prior to that


----------



## JackB

I've had dlp projectors dating back to around 1993. Back then there was a few but I think it is very rare now. I have four 2012 vintage DLPs and none of them have one single stuck pixel. There must be something else causing it.


----------



## earlspinkipad

Yeah, that particular chip is designed for lower power devices (or, so is my impression), and although I’m not sure, I believe the problem is related to heat; too much heat weakening the adhesive bond to the mirrors. If anyone knows anything for certain, I’d love to hear about it.


----------



## earlspinkipad

Ok, I just verified; this chip (dlp470tp) is designed for up to 1500 lumen… the dlp470te is for up to 4000 lumen. I’m not sure why they chose this chip over the other, aside from the possibility that they already had a bunch of them in stock, as they produce mainly pico projectors, but they did.


----------



## 1jdh

Thanks for all the responses!
I'm no techie.
I've done some computer work, changing motherboard, power-sources, hard-drives.etc
I'm in HVAC industry.
But this would probably be over my learning curve.
I'm just disappointed with the Bomaker Polaris 4K, very disappointed with
Bomaker's response to the problem,
The fact this happens to be only a 14 month old unit.
The fact, if more "white dots" start appearing, I'm stuck with it?
Looks like I'll have to live with a $2200.00+(plus) unit, with this white dot
that may only be the size of a diameter of a pencil lead, looks like a size of a garbage can cover
while you are watching TV.
Again, Thanks for all the Responses!

And Buyer Beware of the Bomaker


----------



## JimmyOneCube

Anyone use a Roku Ultra with this unit? I'm currently running an Apple TV 4K which works great but it still pushes SDR content at 2160 so my Polaris keeps the HDR settings and I find the highlights get way overblown. Wondering if the Roku ultra switches output based on content similar to their TVs (I also have two TCLs). 

ps. I did turn on the match content on the Apple TV but it doesn't seem to do anything.


----------



## spexman

I do not have an Apple TV 4K, but on their website support information, they give this:









So, if you turn on the Match Dynamic Range option, that should keep SDR material as SDR, and avoid putting the Polaris into HDR mode.(and blowing out highlights)


----------



## spexman

earlspinkipad said:


> Ok, I just verified; this chip (dlp470tp) is designed for up to 1500 lumen… the dlp470te is for up to 4000 lumen. I’m not sure why they chose this chip over the other, aside from the possibility that they already had a bunch of them in stock, as they produce mainly pico projectors, but they did.


Thank you for enlightening us on this topic--wow, it just doesn't make sense--knowing your product cranks out 3,000 lumens, why implement a DMD that is spec'd for 1,500 max???


----------



## spexman

None of their other projectors use this chip(they are not 4K) and the difference in price on the TI website between the TP and TE chips is a whopping $11--again, making no sense as to why they chose to implement the TP chip.


----------



## earlspinkipad

Hmmmmm, interesting… well, hopefully more will hold up to the heat, then will fail. And hopefully the high grade thermal compound I used for the replacement will help. Mine lasted just under a year, and I only got one single reply from the warranty team, asking for pictures and proof of purchase, then… just crickets 😵‍💫. It’s almost as if they just don’t care 😉


----------



## JimmyOneCube

spexman said:


> I do not have an Apple TV 4K, but on their website support information, they give this:
> View attachment 3361294
> 
> 
> So, if you turn on the Match Dynamic Range option, that should keep SDR material as SDR, and avoid putting the Polaris into HDR mode.(and blowing out highlights)


Figured it out. If you set ATV 4K to put out 4k HDR it doesn't seem to switch between SDR and HDR content when the Match is on. But if you set it to 4K SDR as the default and keep the Match on, it switches based on content. Boom


----------



## spexman

Glad you got it sorted out! Good for other ATV 4K owners to know as well.


----------



## avdvplus

earlspinkipad said:


> Ok, I just verified; this chip (dlp470tp) is designed for up to 1500 lumen… the dlp470te is for up to 4000 lumen. I’m not sure why they chose this chip over the other, aside from the possibility that they already had a bunch of them in stock, as they produce mainly pico projectors, but they did.


Do you know if you can replace the dlp470tp with the dlp470te on the bomaker (one-to-one)?

If all the specs and pins/connections are the same and it s only a lumens issue it could possible. That would at least resolve the heat issue if that is the root cause of the dead pixels.


----------



## avdvplus

JimmyOneCube said:


> Figured it out. If you set ATV 4K to put out 4k HDR it doesn't seem to switch between SDR and HDR content when the Match is on. But if you set it to 4K SDR as the default and keep the Match on, it switches based on content. Boom


Yes, the appropriate settings for the Apple TV 4K is to set 4K SDR with match content and frame rate enabled if you want to display the original media coding (with only upscaling to 4K if not already 4K material). Also, the recommendation is to set it for RGB High since the YCbCr setting will create a green push.


----------



## earlspinkipad

avdvplus said:


> Do you know if you can replace the dlp470tp with the dlp470te on the bomaker (one-to-one)?
> 
> If all the specs and pins/connections are the same and it s only a lumens issue it could possible. That would at least resolve the heat issue if that is the root cause of the dead pixels.


no, they have a different layout, and different number of pins… I’m not any good at hacking, or engineering, so I don’t know if someone could make it work, but, it won’t just drop in.


----------



## jonathan777

1jdh said:


> I've had my Bomaker for just over a year....and a White Dot has appeared on my Screen. I see someone else in this thread had the same problem, did the issue ever get resolved. If anyone knows? there was talk about replacing a chip? Bomaker's resolve was to give me $200.00. Seems like a brush-off So Buyer's Beware. Nice Warranty Program for them.


At least you got a response. I've sent them 5 e-mails. And I even tried calling.


----------



## jonathan777

1jdh said:


> Thanks for all the responses!
> I'm no techie.
> I've done some computer work, changing motherboard, power-sources, hard-drives.etc
> I'm in HVAC industry.
> But this would probably be over my learning curve.
> I'm just disappointed with the Bomaker Polaris 4K, very disappointed with
> Bomaker's response to the problem,
> The fact this happens to be only a 14 month old unit.
> The fact, if more "white dots" start appearing, I'm stuck with it?
> Looks like I'll have to live with a $2200.00+(plus) unit, with this white dot
> that may only be the size of a diameter of a pencil lead, looks like a size of a garbage can cover
> while you are watching TV.
> Again, Thanks for all the Responses!
> 
> And Buyer Beware of the Bomaker


I bought mine only 6 months ago. I'm going to sell it on e-bay or Facebook for a few hundred and then buy the LG 4k short throw. Hopefully, I'll have better luck with that one. I already have 3 people interested in purchasing the Bomaker. I hope this projector makes someone happy! I'm just too OCD to handle that little pin dot.


----------



## avdvplus

earlspinkipad said:


> no, they have a different layout, and different number of pins… I’m not any good at hacking, or engineering, so I don’t know if someone could make it work, but, it won’t just drop in.


Ok, thank you. If the pin/connection layout is different I do not believe it makes sense to try to make it work since it would probably require a different board altogether.


----------



## jonathan777

Hey all, so as much as I love my Bomaker, I put it up for sale on eBay, Facebook, and here on AVS. I know the stuck pixel is tiny, but I just can't shake it. I also don't want to open this thing up and screw it up even more. Anyway, I had a couple of people from this forum message me about this projector, so I thought I'd just let everyone know should anyone else be interested in purchasing it. I have a base price, but offers are certainly welcomed — I don't expect to get the price I posted, honestly. I just have it set to ward off lowballers. If interested, feel free to message me. Thanks for all the advice over the past few months, everyone. You're the reason why I love AVSForum!


----------



## JimmyOneCube

Been three weeks now with this projector, got a great +1.05 white screen and really digging it. I‘ve used settings found here and did some minor adjustments to my liking and using standard as my color temp. but it still feels a bit too warm and going to cold is just too much in the other direction. I like to think I know what Im doing but not nearly as in tune as may of you here. What areas of white balance and color tones should I focus on to dial in the temp Im looking for. I like my whites to be white. Appreciate any suggestions.


----------



## triplington

sidery22 said:


> I feed it with a Zidoo in 4:2:2, an Apple TV set at 4:2:2 and a UHD player Sony 700


Does the Zidoo switch the Bomaker into HDR mode. I know the Zidoo can force lldv output but I thought it could not change the projector to HDR mode. Is this still the case or can you change it manually?


----------



## spexman

JimmyOneCube said:


> Been three weeks now with this projector, got a great +1.05 white screen and really digging it. I‘ve used settings found here and did some minor adjustments to my liking and using standard as my color temp. but it still feels a bit too warm and going to cold is just too much in the other direction. I like to think I know what Im doing but not nearly as in tune as may of you here. What areas of white balance and color tones should I focus on to dial in the temp Im looking for. I like my whites to be white. Appreciate any suggestions.


D65 reference white appears yellowish to many as they are used to cooler whites. That being said, if you feel your whites look too warm, adjust the grey scale using the 2 point White Balance adjustment of R/G/B to your liking...you will need to do some fiddling to achieve the results you like.


----------



## avdvplus

triplington said:


> Does the Zidoo switch the Bomaker into HDR mode. I know the Zidoo can force lldv output but I thought it could not change the projector to HDR mode. Is this still the case or can you change it manually?


I think any source device that outputs LLDV normally changes a projector/tv to HDR mode unless you force it not to.


----------



## sidery22

Yes the Zidoo z9x switch to HDR and even to Dolby Vision H10. The result is fantastic. Colors are more accurate.


----------



## avdvplus

For those using the HD Fury for LLDV this new approach below could prove as a better solution. I have tried in another projector and tv and it worked well. I have not tested in the Polaris yet but it will likely work well also. Once I move some stuff around will test on the Polaris also.









 Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...


For the HDR metadata, I think what may be happening is this is enabling custom HDR with ST.2084 but without specifying min/max luminance, maxCLL and maxFALL. In particular, this will probably have greatest effect on projectors that use these values to adjust their HDR tone mapping curve (e.g...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## avdvplus

avdvplus said:


> For those using the HD Fury for LLDV this new approach below could prove as a better solution. I have tried in another projector and tv and it worked well. I have not tested in the Polaris yet but it will likely work well also. Once I move some stuff around will test on the Polaris also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...
> 
> 
> For the HDR metadata, I think what may be happening is this is enabling custom HDR with ST.2084 but without specifying min/max luminance, maxCLL and maxFALL. In particular, this will probably have greatest effect on projectors that use these values to adjust their HDR tone mapping curve (e.g...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


I tested in the Polaris and it worked well also. Please note that there is a good amount of debate on that thread on the DV tab settings but the HDR/AVI tab settings there has not been too much debate. From the discussion and my testing it seems that for the HDR/AVI tab settings this approach will allow the eotf / pq curve of the projector to be used instead of the value you would insert on that tab. You could achieve the same result by just finding out the appropriate settings and inserting but since I have two sinks connected to my HD Fury this approach is a better solution since it will default to the sink being used and not an approximate number. On the DV tab settings debate it seems that the main differences on point of views is what does this approach do to the max luminance setting. As other on the thread mentioned, I tested and it and it is the same as setting it to 100 nits. Although at first look that could seem incorrect, once that is matched to the eotf / pq curve of the projector which will probably have a curve close to 100 nits anyway then the results are very good. The best scene to test is on the movie The Meg after around 1:08, looking at the clouds on the sky. If your settings are not tuned you will probably not see any clouds or only see faint cloud images. On a well calibrated image you see a number of clouds very well defined.


----------



## spexman

avdvplus, thank you for these observations. I have the Arcana, which to my knowledge, does not have the ability to be programed with a PC--only via the small display window on it. It is menu driven, with far fewer fields than the higher end HD Fury models. That being said, regardless of what HDR settings I used in the Arcana, they were always ignored by the Polaris--in other words, they made no difference. However, the LLDV settings were VERY active, and I settled at max luminance of 150 nits(very close to yours of 100, as the Arcana allows only 50 nit steps in the max lum setting). This made a lot of sense, as according to my calculations, on my 150" screen, I have about 140 nits. My LLDV setting of 150 for max luminance consistently produces superbly toned mapped images.


----------



## avdvplus

spexman said:


> avdvplus, thank you for these observations. I have the Arcana, which to my knowledge, does not have the ability to be programed with a PC--only via the small display window on it. It is menu driven, with far fewer fields than the higher end HD Fury models. That being said, regardless of what HDR settings I used in the Arcana, they were always ignored by the Polaris--in other words, they made no difference. However, the LLDV settings were VERY active, and I settled at max luminance of 150 nits(very close to yours of 100, as the Arcana allows only 50 nit steps in the max lum setting). This made a lot of sense, as according to my calculations, on my 150" screen, I have about 140 nits. My LLDV setting of 150 for max luminance consistently produces superbly toned mapped images.


spexman good to hear about your results. I am still working on getting my Polaris all configured to my screen/environment/equipment. To this point I only have done full SDR calibration. I still have to work on HDR calibration and currently using your settings as a starting point. So far the max luminance I could get on my 160 inches screen was around 48 nits (using a probe/colorimeter and calibration software measurement) which is normally the minimum recommended for movies screen luminance. Are you getting 140 nits on your 150 inches screen with SDR, HDR, or both?


----------



## spexman

All the best with your calibrations! 
I measured ~2,400 lumens HDR and SDR, calibrated. On my 150" screen, if I am doing my math correctly, that equates to about 40 FtL of luminance, or 132 nits. This is in line with their manufacturer's specs of 350 nits(uncalibrated, of course) on a 100" screen. Your reading of 48 nits seems a little low, unless you are using a very negative gain screen. With a screen close to a 1.0 gain, you should be getting 110-120 nits on your 160" screen.


----------



## avdvplus

spexman said:


> All the best with your calibrations!
> I measured ~2,400 lumens HDR and SDR, calibrated. On my 150" screen, if I am doing my math correctly, that equates to about 40 FtL of luminance, or 132 nits. This is in line with their manufacturer's specs of 350 nits(uncalibrated, of course) on a 100" screen. Your reading of 48 nits seems a little low, unless you are using a very negative gain screen. With a screen close to a 1.0 gain, you should be getting 110-120 nits on your 160" screen.


Thank you for the confirmation. Although I have a light meter I have not used yet since I wanted to finish all calibration. Currently I am getting the reading of ~48 nits from the colorimeter probe reading out of the screen. I have used two calibration software (ChromaPure and ColourSpace) and both are giving me this reading. I know that those reading are not 100% correct since the true way to get luminance is through a light meter but those readings are normally not off by too much. From what I remember from your posts you use HCFR - what luminance nits reading is hcfr giving for your screen through your colorimeter?


----------



## spexman

avdvplus said:


> Thank you for the confirmation. Although I have a light meter I have not used yet since I wanted to finish all calibration. Currently I am getting the reading of ~48 nits from the colorimeter probe reading out of the screen. I have used two calibration software (ChromaPure and ColourSpace) and both are giving me this reading. I know that those reading are not 100% correct since the true way to get luminance is through a light meter but those readings are normally not off by too much. From what I remember from your posts you use HCFR - what luminance nits reading is hcfr giving for your screen through your colorimeter?


I too experienced low luminance readings from my probes(I tried both and they gave similarly low results)(so this is likely your issue too); I used two light meters(one analog, one digital-they both gave similar results) to get more accurate luminance readings. I used the readings from these light meters for my post.
Ok, I just dug up my readings through my probe, and I was at about 55 nits calibrated, so your 48 aligns with this, as you are on a bigger screen. Try though I did, I simply could not get a 'better' reading than that on either probes. When I calibrated my Benq W6K(many years ago), that same probe gave quite accurate luminance readings--as you said, not off by much, but I even tried it again on the W6K and it still gives woefully lower readings....I am not sure what is to blame, but I gave up trying to solve it and just used the light meters, whose readings make a lot more sense.


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## avdvplus

spexman said:


> I too experienced low luminance readings from my probes(I tried both and they gave similarly low results)(so this is likely your issue too); I used two light meters(one analog, one digital-they both gave similar results) to get more accurate luminance readings. I used the readings from these light meters for my post.
> Ok, I just dug up my readings through my probe, and I was at about 55 nits calibrated, so your 48 aligns with this, as you are on a bigger screen. Try though I did, I simply could not get a 'better' reading than that on either probes. When I calibrated my Benq W6K(many years ago), that same probe gave quite accurate luminance readings--as you said, not off by much, but I even tried it again on the W6K and it still gives woefully lower readings....I am not sure what is to blame, but I gave up trying to solve it and just used the light meters, whose readings make a lot more sense.


An interesting observation that probably is only coincidence and has no connection at all - but your 132 nits light meter measured against you 55 nits colorimeter measured is a factor of 2.4 - Is that the gamma settings your are using on your HCFR calibration software and/or is what your Bomaker is set for gamma? For me setting the Bomaker to Gamma "Dark" it tracks to a 2.4 Gamma.


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## spexman

The HCFR software is set at 2.2--I am not sure that this relates to the factor difference in nits. At Gamma Dark on the Polaris, I too track a 2.4 gamma!(as indicated on my review chart)


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## avdvplus

I used ColourSpace/ChromaPure and a colorimeter to calibrate my Bomaker. Below are a couple of items that worked better for my projector and screen. Given the variances between projectors and screen this could be very different from your experience.

First, I want to mention that I got the custom lens from @spexman and it made a world of difference for the focus on my 160 inches screen. He does a first class job on the lens and provided a great customer experience. I am technically inclined so could have open the projector and tried the manual focus approach documented on this thread previously but given the results documented by others you still have some focus issues - and - I would prefer opening this projector only when it is absolutely necessary given the weak warranty from the vendor/manufacturer. With spexman lens the overall picture is in focus in the middle and all corners. A special note that is not related to the lens - this projector even when in full focus is not crisp/sharp as other projector I had/have and the Sharpness settings does not help much. Some purist prefers a normal/neutral soft image so this will work but if you prefer a very sharp image you will need to get a video processor to sharpen the image.

All settings below are for SDR (not HDR).

So to start what are similar settings as some of the previous results from others calibrations on this thread:

Gamma - Dark
Color Temperature - Hot
Color Tone - 50
Sharpness - 50

What is somewhat similar (some variances but not excessive delta differences):

White Balance:
Red Gain - 128
Red Offset - 128
Green Gain - 119
Green Offset - 127
Blue Gain - 94
Blue Offset - 127

What is different:

Color Format - 16-235 - Since I will only use this projector for video and not gamming, staying with "Legal" range makes easier to achieve my desired results and also some of my equipment highly prefers the legal range.

Light Source, Light Mode - Bright
I tried High Dynamic first and notice that there is a large amount of variance/drift during calibration for Greyscale and Gamma. For my projector I noticed that although I get better blacks with High Dynamic the projector creates the dynamic dimming/highlights by changing Blue and/or Green which is very noticeable on certain scenes where the colors change are very visible. Also, changing the "Light Mode" from any settings is not just a matter or light intensity but it changes the White Balance and Gamma curve also.

After trying all settings I ended up with "Bright" because it gave the highest nits for my 160 inches screen but also it gave me the best stable Greyscale and Gamma readings. As a note the "User" setting at maximum setting is very close to the "Bright" setting albeit it still has some Greyscale and Gamma variances from Bright.

If you are going to calibrate this projector make sure you set this to your preferred settings before starting the calibration since if you change after calibrating it will invalidate your calibration.

Brightness - 50
51 and above the blacks starts getting washed out and 49 or below there is no improvement in blacks and you start loosing shadow detail. Also, in my projector as you raise Brightness you have to also reduce Contrast or you start creating contrast issues. My results could be based on selecting Color Format 16-235.

Contrast - 50
51 or above no improvement in light output and whites start clipping and Gamma is reduced on 90%-100% white. If you go lower than 50 then the light output reduces and there is no improvement on clipping. Also, in my projector as you raise Contrast you have to also reduce Brightness or you start creating brightness issues. My results could be based on selecting Color Format 16-235. 

Saturation - 41
42 and above pushes yellow to be too over saturated and it cannot be corrected (lowered) including with the Color Adjustment (CMS) settings. The Green on my projector is also highly saturated at almost all levels before calibration. Blue has significant lightness/intensity in almost all levels before calibration

Since I am using another device to correct CMS, I left CMS at neutral values with 50 for all color/settings.


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## spexman

Thank you for sharing your hard work and insights. It is much appreciated!


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## abbatict

Hi all - first off thanks so much for all the time and effort that this community has put into researching and documenting various settings, fixes, tweaks and suggestions re: maximizing our viewing experience. I've had my bomaker laser TV for a bit over a year now and very recently added a HDFury arcana to the mix after learning about them here. Happy to jump right on the bandwagon with everyone else saying that it really does make a huge difference in picture quality, especially for very dark or very bright scenes - but since connecting it I've been getting (seemingly) random HDCP errors. Sometimes not at all, sometimes 4-5 times during a single 30 minute long episode of whatever show we're watching. The screen will flash black then show an error message (image below.) After a few seconds the message goes away and we can resume watching by pausing then unpausing. More info on my setup, just in case it's relevant:

Roku Ultra 2022, this unit: Amazon.com: Roku Ultra 2022 4K/HDR/Dolby Vision Streaming Device and Roku Voice Remote Pro with Rechargeable Battery, Hands-Free Voice Controls, Lost Remote Finder, and Private Listening : Everything Else
HDFury Arcana: 4K Arcana 18Gbps | HDFury.com | Connect and Fix everything in HDMI
HDMI cables Roku -> HDFury and HDFury -> Bomaker Laser TV: Amazon.com: Certified HDMI Cable, Real 8K 2.1 Cable 2 Feet (2 Pack), 48Gbps, Short Ultra HD Braided Cord, Supports [email protected] [email protected], eARC, HDR, HDCP 2.2 2.3, for Laptop, Monitor, Switch, PS5/PS4, Xbox, UHD TV : Electronics

Has anyone else encountered this, or does anyone have any thoughts / ideas on why I'd be seeing this and steps I might try to work around it? Thanks much for any feedback!

Edit: This probably goes without saying, but I've already tried the basics like swapping cables, using the other HDMI port on the projector, and the various Roku level device settings I found mentioned when doing initial research. (trying alternate 'device modes', making sure the dynamic refresh rate is disabled, etc.)


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## spexman

abbatict, welcome to the forum!
Sorry to hear about this message popping up--frustrating for sure!
I have that same Roku box and the Arcana....I have never seen this message...the difference may be in the fact that my Roku is connected to my receiver before it reaches the Arcana...(I suspect yours goes directly to the Arcana?)
Perhaps trying a different HDMI cable? Also, try to see if you can update the firmware on both the Roku and the Arcana--this may help?


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## avdvplus

abbatict said:


> Hi all - first off thanks so much for all the time and effort that this community has put into researching and documenting various settings, fixes, tweaks and suggestions re: maximizing our viewing experience. I've had my bomaker laser TV for a bit over a year now and very recently added a HDFury arcana to the mix after learning about them here. Happy to jump right on the bandwagon with everyone else saying that it really does make a huge difference in picture quality, especially for very dark or very bright scenes - but since connecting it I've been getting (seemingly) random HDCP errors. Sometimes not at all, sometimes 4-5 times during a single 30 minute long episode of whatever show we're watching. The screen will flash black then show an error message (image below.) After a few seconds the message goes away and we can resume watching by pausing then unpausing. More info on my setup, just in case it's relevant:
> 
> Roku Ultra 2022, this unit: Amazon.com: Roku Ultra 2022 4K/HDR/Dolby Vision Streaming Device and Roku Voice Remote Pro with Rechargeable Battery, Hands-Free Voice Controls, Lost Remote Finder, and Private Listening : Everything Else
> HDFury Arcana: 4K Arcana 18Gbps | HDFury.com | Connect and Fix everything in HDMI
> HDMI cables Roku -> HDFury and HDFury -> Bomaker Laser TV: Amazon.com: Certified HDMI Cable, Real 8K 2.1 Cable 2 Feet (2 Pack), 48Gbps, Short Ultra HD Braided Cord, Supports [email protected] [email protected], eARC, HDR, HDCP 2.2 2.3, for Laptop, Monitor, Switch, PS5/PS4, Xbox, UHD TV : Electronics
> 
> Has anyone else encountered this, or does anyone have any thoughts / ideas on why I'd be seeing this and steps I might try to work around it? Thanks much for any feedback!
> 
> Edit: This probably goes without saying, but I've already tried the basics like swapping cables, using the other HDMI port on the projector, and the various Roku level device settings I found mentioned when doing initial research. (trying alternate 'device modes', making sure the dynamic refresh rate is disabled, etc.)
> 
> View attachment 3383136


I have a similar Roku (the same model but and earlier year version) connected directly to a TV and have had these same problems. As the message says, I had to disconnect the HDMI cable and reconnect to fix the problem (no need to do the other steps). After changing the cable and updating the firmware the problem did not re-occur. I have different HD-Fury devices connected to other TVs including an Arcana (without the Roku) and never had this specific problem in those scenarios.

An important point that sometimes sounds counter-intuitive . For the best passive cable length the rule of thumb is - If you are using 48gbps cables for 18gbps devices the passive cable should be around 3 meters (~10 feet) (for passive cables). If you are using 18gbps passive cables for 18gbps devices then cable should be around 2 meters (6.5 feet) long (for passive cables). Normally it is thought that the shortest cable the better but this is not always true. Also, use certified cables - although that is not a guarantee that will always work, it does reduce the probability of problems. In my experience the best passive cables are - Tributaries (very expensive and for the Roku is overkill), Zeskit Maya (good quality for the money), KabelDirekt (good quality for the money).


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## abbatict

spexman said:


> abbatict, welcome to the forum!
> Sorry to hear about this message popping up--frustrating for sure!
> I have that same Roku box and the Arcana....I have never seen this message...the difference may be in the fact that my Roku is connected to my receiver before it reaches the Arcana...(I suspect yours goes directly to the Arcana?)
> Perhaps trying a different HDMI cable? Also, try to see if you can update the firmware on both the Roku and the Arcana--this may help?


Correct. I'm connected Roku -> Arcana -> Projector via HDMI (all using the cables linked in my original post - 2' length) then projector -> sound system via optical out. Probably a good call on updating the Arcana firmware - I haven't done that yet. Thanks for the quick response, I'll play with it some more after work today.


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## abbatict

avdvplus said:


> I have a similar Roku (the same model but and earlier year version) connected directly to a TV and have had these same problems. As the message says, I had to disconnect the HDMI cable and reconnect to fix the problem (no need to do the other steps). After changing the cable and updating the firmware the problem did not re-occur. I have different HD-Fury devices connected to other TVs including an Arcana (without the Roku) and never had this specific problem in those scenarios.
> 
> An important point that sometimes sounds counter-intuitive . For the best passive cable length the rule of thumb is - If you are using 48gbps cables for 18gbps devices the passive cable should be around 3 meters (~10 feet) (for passive cables). If you are using 18gbps passive cables for 18gbps devices then cable should be around 2 meters (6.5 feet) long (for passive cables). Normally it is thought that the shortest cable the better but this is not always true. Also, use certified cables - although that is not a guarantee that will always work, it does reduce the probability of problems. In my experience the best passive cables are - Tributaries (very expensive and for the Roku is overkill), Zeskit Maya (good quality for the money), KabelDirekt (good quality for the money).


Thanks for the suggestions! I'm using 2' cables to go from the Roku to the Arcana, then again from Arcana to the projector, but the length info is good to keep in mind regardless for other setups. I'll try updating the firmware on the Arcana tonight after work and if doesn't resolve the issue I'll look into the cables you suggested.


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## avdvplus

abbatict said:


> Thanks for the suggestions! I'm using 2' cables to go from the Roku to the Arcana, then again from Arcana to the projector, but the length info is good to keep in mind regardless for other setups. I'll try updating the firmware on the Arcana tonight after work and if doesn't resolve the issue I'll look into the cables you suggested.


In my case since I did not had the Arcana on the HDMI chain with the Roku ((TV directly connected to the Roku) - the firmware that I mentioned that I updated was the Roku firmware.


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## spexman

abbatict said:


> Correct. I'm connected Roku -> Arcana -> Projector via HDMI (all using the cables linked in my original post - 2' length) then projector -> sound system via optical out. Probably a good call on updating the Arcana firmware - I haven't done that yet. Thanks for the quick response, I'll play with it some more after work today.


Excellent, and keep us posted on all fronts...the cable length info from avdvplus was also informative--thanks!


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## abbatict

abbatict said:


> Correct. I'm connected Roku -> Arcana -> Projector via HDMI (all using the cables linked in my original post - 2' length) then projector -> sound system via optical out. Probably a good call on updating the Arcana firmware - I haven't done that yet. Thanks for the quick response, I'll play with it some more after work today.


Hi again. Just following up - I checked their website for firmware updates and it looks like the latest they have posted is 0.86 but mine shipped with 0.87 installed. I ordered 2 different sets of certified ultra high speed HDMI cables as was suggested by avdvplus, (the zeskit maya and kabeldirect from amazon) and did a factory reset on the Roku, projector, and HDFury. I thought the cables solved my problem as we went 2 consecutive days without seeing the error during 1+ hour long sessions, but last night we saw it about 5 times in 20 minutes. (Watching the same content from the same source, just the next episode.)

For the Arcana itself - are there any settings I should change other turning on 'LLDV>HDR'? Maybe something in the HDR or Scaler sub-menu? I don't _really_ understand everything in there so I've refrained from poking around blindly.
And anything special on the Roku or Projector side of things I should be setting/checking?

Again, thanks much!


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## avdvplus

abbatict said:


> Hi again. Just following up - I checked their website for firmware updates and it looks like the latest they have posted is 0.86 but mine shipped with 0.87 installed. I ordered 2 different sets of certified ultra high speed HDMI cables as was suggested by avdvplus, (the zeskit maya and kabeldirect from amazon) and did a factory reset on the Roku, projector, and HDFury. I thought the cables solved my problem as we went 2 consecutive days without seeing the error during 1+ hour long sessions, but last night we saw it about 5 times in 20 minutes. (Watching the same content from the same source, just the next episode.)
> 
> For the Arcana itself - are there any settings I should change other turning on 'LLDV>HDR'? Maybe something in the HDR or Scaler sub-menu? I don't _really_ understand everything in there so I've refrained from poking around blindly.
> And anything special on the Roku or Projector side of things I should be setting/checking?
> 
> Again, thanks much!


What show(s) were you watching when the problem occured? It is not normal but on a few occasions the material (video) can cause these problems. Make sure that your Polaris is set for "HDMI Version" to "HDMI 2.0 version" (it should be set by default to this value but you should check to make sure). Also for the Roku make sure the "Display type" is set to "Automatic". The following settings should not make a difference for this problem but I personally prefer for viewing material - In Advanced display settings set "Auto-adjust display refresh rate" to "On", "HDR subsampling" to "4:2:2" and "HDR always on" to "Off" (some of these are default but worth checking). For the Arcana there is no setting that I am aware that would cause this problem if everything is default (after reset) and you only turned on LLDV>HDR.


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## avdvplus

avdvplus said:


> What show(s) were you watching when the problem occured? It is not normal but on a few occasions the material (video) can cause these problems. Make sure that your Polaris is set for "HDMI Version" to "HDMI 2.0 version" (it should be set by default to this value but you should check to make sure). Also for the Roku make sure the "Display type" is set to "Automatic". The following settings should not make a difference for this problem but I personally prefer for viewing material - In Advanced display settings set "Auto-adjust display refresh rate" to "On", "HDR subsampling" to "4:2:2" and "HDR always on" to "Off" (some of these are default but worth checking). For the Arcana there is no setting that I am aware that would cause this problem if everything is default (after reset) and you only turned on LLDV>HDR.


If these changes do not help and you still have these problems - try using the other HDMI input on the Polaris - Just a reminder that some of your Polaris settings are input-based so changing to the other HDMI means that you will need to re-apply the same settings from the previous HDMI to the new HDMI input being used.


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