# Monoprice RedMere HDMI cables



## jeffquadski

I wanted to start a place to chat about the newest HDMI cable offering from our friends at Monoprice.


I've been excited about these cables and the prospect of removing the heavy and bulky Premium 24AWG HDMI High Speed Certified Male to Male Cables that currently make up the majority of my connections. With the exception of one 3M Audioquest Vodka that handles the SC-55 to 58VT25 run.


I recieved my two 6 foot M/P RedMeres this past weekend and ran to the basement to change the BD-93 to SC-55 connection and viola.... nothing, so sound no picture.










Went upstairs and replaced RX-V1800 to PZ80U and viola.....nothing, so sound no picture.










Both brand new cables bad? it cant be, spent a half hour trying different configs, made sure the directional arrows on the cables were right. Nothing.


Had a minute to chat with M/P online today and was promptly told that there is an issue with the cables and that they would be replaced ASAP. I was emailed an RMA very promptly and am overall very pleased with the handling of the situation.


So hopefully this will serve to notify others that there is an issue but M/P is aware and will rectify shortly. I have always had good luck with their products and feel that this issue has been handled well at this point. I will report back when it is resolved along with my thoughts on performance, value and overall happiness.


Cheers,


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## ctgoodman

We are working on a new house and I will need to be ordering cables and such really soon for the in wall installs. I was planning to use these as well. Keep us posted on what you find out. M/P says they should be in stock 6/27/12.


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## un-synaps

Ahh glad I did some searching today. I had the same problem. Ordered 6 cables (5x6' and 1x10').


I was getting the same issues. TV knew there was a cable there because the error went from no cable to no signal.


Ill hop on tonight and start a RMA.


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## Monoprice_01

Hello,


It has come to Monoprice’s attention that a few customers who have purchased certain lengths of our new Ultra Slim High Performance HDMI® Cable with RedMere® Technology are experiencing problems with the functioning of the cable. We would like to let you know that we have identified the cause of this problem and are taking the necessary steps to make the needed corrections. All future production runs of these cables are expected to perform normally, and without further defects.

For customers such as yourself that have received cables that are not functioning properly, we sincerely apologize for the inconvenience and thank you for your patience and understanding.

Under Monoprice’s lifetime warranty on all of our cables, we will replace your defective unit as soon as possible and at no cost to you. You will not need to return your defective cable – you can simply discard it.


Due to the complex design of these cables and their active chipsets, we unfortunately experienced some slight manufacturing variances with this initial production run; these variances were not discovered until after shipment. Again we apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused, and would like to reiterate that this issue has been identified, isolated, and addressed. We expect no further problems with these products.


Sorry again for the trouble and we appreciate your business.



Regards,

Monoprice Tech Support


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## un-synaps

And this is why you guys kick ass.










Many thanks.


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## rboster

I have the 60ft version of this cable. Before running it in the wall and attic (







), I ran it within the room between the projector and video processor....watched one movie no problems. Should I wait a period of usage before installing in my wall or should the initial lack of problems represent no issues going forward (I assume if there was an issue, it would have revealed it self right away). But...better to ask a stupid question, then to make a mistake (by not asking).



Ron


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## Monoprice_01

Hello,


Actually, our longer HDMI Redmere cables were not affected by this issue. Anything above 15ft will be just fine so you will have no problems, hope this helps!


Regards,

Monoprice Tech Support


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## rboster




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Monoprice_01*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables#post_22175771
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Actually, our longer HDMI Redmere cables were not affected by this issue. Anything above 15ft will be just fine so you will have no problems, hope this helps!
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Monoprice Tech Support



Thanks for the quick reply. I assumed as much...but I am glad to get a confirmation before running through my wall and attic space. With a weather being over 100 outside (and warmer in the attic)...I want to make sure I only have to venture up there with the heat and spiders just once (I hate spiders and I sweat a lot).


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## jeffquadski

What is the release date for the new 6 footers?


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## Colm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jeffquadski*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables#post_22177981
> 
> 
> What is the release date for the new 6 footers?


Have you looked on their site?


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## EMAGDNIM

I'm currently working on our basement and I'm in the market for a longer run (30-40 foot) to my future projector. I've been periodically checking on the estimated stock dates on Monoprice's site and the dates keep being pushed further and further.


I gave up on waiting for everything to be shipped at the same time, so I ordered what I needed to continue working on the basement. I really hope they are in stock sooner then later.


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## jeffquadski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Colm*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables#post_22180364
> 
> 
> Have you looked on their site?


M/P contacted me via email and gave me an earlier eta than the website listed for warranty replacements.


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## colleycol

Not sure if this is the right place to ask.

Anyone know where I can get a reliable long run (40-45 ft) HDMI cable, preferably with Redmere technology?


Monoprice just pushed their ECD back to 8/1/12.
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025501&p_id=9171&seq=1&format=2 


I am trying to have all my cables in the conduit by end of the next week. I know I won’t get as cheap as Monoprice but I am not paying $400 for Monster cables.


Thanks


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## Colm

Well, for about $200 you can do HDBaseT...


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## 04rex

Hey guys, just wondering, can you still connect a wall plate to these? I would be running a 30 footer in the wall, then have the wall plates to connect them to. Than connect another HDMI from each wall plate to the receiver and projo. Is this ok to do with this cable?


Thanks


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## Colm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *04rex*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables#post_22229604
> 
> 
> Is this ok to do with this cable?


Sure. But you are going to degrade the signal a bit. May or may not work out for you. Try it a see and let us know how it turns out.


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## colleycol

Just got my redmere cables from Monoprice. I decided to wait. Running (2) of these and 4 Cat6 cables.


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## johng

Any updates on RedMere cables or technology?


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## colleycol

Works as advertised for me. Just make sure you understand its one directional.


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## Alfonzo Roman

I need to run hdmi behind the wall, but can't because the connectors and/or conventional cables are to bulky and inflexible.


This redmere would be terrific if the wire could be run in the walls without the connector on one end, and then the connector added after the wire is pulled through the wall.


Is there any such cable system using redmere? It seems everything available has the connectors already permanently attached.


BTW I just installed a few 6 foot redmere's from monoprice and they work as advertised. Love the flex in the cable... furniture is able to get closer to the wall and no stress on the cables behind the receiver anymore. : )


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## alk3997

A few other people have asked that. There is really no way for the standard installer to put a connector on the end of an HDMI and have it be reliable. You are stuck with running the cable with the ends attached.


It can be done though. I've run HDMI cables with the connectors through 1.5-inch conduit using conduit lubricant and a good snake.. Not easy, but it works.


Of course if you can use Redmere, then that makes things even easier rather than the AWG24 I ran.


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## feeth

Anyone who has replaced Monoprices standard 10' HDMI cables from a few years ago with 10' of the new redmere? Just wondering if they are worth it over a shorter 10' run for video quality or are you just getting the feature of a thinner cable? TIA!


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## ccotenj

^^^


if your existing cables "work", theres no reason to change them... you can't "improve" over an already working cable...


at 10 feet, it's unlikely you would need to use a redmere cable to get it to "work"...


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## ufokillerz

i bought a 10 ft redmere to replace my 10 ft bluejeans hdmi cable, didn't notice any differences, will be replacing 2x 25 ft 22ga monoprice cables with a connecter in between with a 50 ft redmere cable, it was not fun running it in my walls back then.


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## alk3997

I would not expect the signal from a 10 foot Redmere to be any different than a signal from a 10 foot passive high speed cable. The only advantage for the 10 foot sized Redmere cable is the thickness of the cable. Why did you change the cables?


For two 25 foot cables with an adapter, the 50 foot Redmere should be an advantage as you start pushing towards the highest speed ratings (10.2 gbps). The disadvantage with Redmere is that there are active components that can fail in the cable (and it costs a bit more).


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## Gig103

Does RedMere only reduce thickness or does it also improve quality over long runs?


I have a 2" PVC cable run so the thickness isn't a concern for me, so really what I'm getting at is if there's going to be an improvement over the 24AWG normal HDMI cables from Monoprice.


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## ccotenj

^^^


if your existing cables work, then there is no reason to replace them... new cables can't "work better"... hdmi cables either "work" or "don't work", there is no in between...


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## Colm

If you aren't currently getting sparkles or worse, it won't do a thing for you.


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## alk3997




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *feeth*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables#post_22619826
> 
> 
> Anyone who has replaced Monoprices standard 10' HDMI cables from a few years ago with 10' of the new redmere? Just wondering if they are worth it over a shorter 10' run for video quality or are you just getting the feature of a thinner cable? TIA!



Go back to step 1 of HDMI cable selection - There are only two types of HDMI cables. They are standard speed and high speed with a number of options. Certified high speed indicates that the cable has been tested to the highest speeds used and planned by HDMI. With the certificate for that length of cable, you are guaranteed (short of a manufacturing defect or damage) that the cable will work for anything HDMI can throw at it.


Standard speed means that the cable was not designed to meet those high speeds. How far short of high speed the standard speed cable falls is different for each cable (or at least each model of cable). The only thing you are guaranteed with a standard speed cable is that 1080i and 720p will work.


So, if you start off with a high speed cable that is getting all of the bits from input to output without errors and you replace it with another cable that gets all of the bits from input to output without errors, have you gained anything? No. At least not in terms of bit error rates. Maybe the thickness of the cable is important but that's about it in terms of gains.


Now passive High speed HDMI cables max out at about 25 feet. Two 25 feet high speed cables coupled together does not make a 50' high speed cable. It makes a 50' standard speed cable (for the most part). How far short of true High speed do the coupled cables fall? Don't know - depends upon the cables and the coupler. However, a 50' Redmere high speed cable would be a certified high speed cable. So, if you are going over 25' there could be a difference. However, if the 50' coupled cables aren't producing any errors (and they are obvious when you get an error) then for what you are doing, you won't see a difference. In other words, for the bandwidth, the bit error rate remains zero with the coupled cables. No real benefit to replacing the coupled cables unless you increase the bandwidth to a point that there start to be bit errors.


...and definitely no change to video quality no matter what. These are bits that represent pixels. There are no magic errors that will decrease sharpness or increase brightness. You just get random noise if you get bit errors. Combined with the requirement for "secure" communications (encryption), this results in no picture, lines, sparkles, a solid rectangle or a partial picture. It does not result in a refinement to any of the items you can change in a TV's menu system (such as tint, color, brightness, sharpness, refresh rate, etc)


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## sanlyn




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alk3997*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables#post_22630896
> 
> 
> ...and definitely no change to video quality no matter what. These are bits that represent pixels. There are no magic errors that will decrease sharpness or increase brightness. You just get random noise if you get bit errors. Combined with the requirement for "secure" communications (encryption), this results in no picture, lines, sparkles, a solid rectangle or a partial picture. It does not result in a refinement to any of the items you can change in a TV's menu system (such as tint, color, brightness, sharpness, refresh rate, etc)


Don't know how I missed this one. Hm. The same b.s. you read on CNET. I tried those cables. They're crap. I returned them next day. HDMI is second-rate to begin with, but I keep seeing this all-wire-is-optically-alike and all-wire-is-audibly-alike nonsense passed on as guru wisdom. Not true. Period.


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## Colm

My,my,my! Don't you have an attitude?


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sanlyn*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables#post_22638953
> 
> 
> ...I keep seeing this all-wire-is-optically-alike and all-wire-is-audibly-alike nonsense...


Well, you didn't see it in this thread. Why don't you take your rant somewhere more appropriate? Of course, if you have some objective information to share, we would love to hear it.


Yes, cables differ considerably in parameters that affect performance, including impedance consistency, skew, cross talk, etc.. The point is, though, that as long as the received signal is close enough to the transmitted signal, no data is lost. If data is lost, because of the encoding method used for HDMI, you get one or more pixels that are just wrong. If you get a few of them, you see sparkles. More, lines of sparkles. Enough, no picture. What you don't get is the kind of effects that you can get with analog signals, like differences in hue, contrast, sharpness, etc. And even with the worst, cheapest HDMI cable, if the received signal is just good enough, no data is lost and the picture will be identical to that produced by the best, most expensive HDMI cable. If you don't understand that, then you don't understand a thing about HDMI.


One could argue about HDMI audio being less than ideal. But that is due to how it is encoded on the same TMDS pairs that transmit the video than differences in HDMI cables. The same thing holds as for video. If the signal is just good enough, no data is lost.


Now, if you were an early adopter of monoprice's Redmere cables, it is possible that the cables you had were indeed crap. Monoprice acknowledged that they had a problem with some and offered to replace them. That doesn't mean that all cables incorporating Redmere technology are crap, or for that matter that the current monprice products incorporating Redmere technology are crap.


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## alk3997




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sanlyn*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables#post_22638953
> 
> 
> Don't know how I missed this one. Hm. The same b.s. you read on CNET. I tried those cables. They're crap. I returned them next day. HDMI is second-rate to begin with, but I keep seeing this all-wire-is-optically-alike and all-wire-is-audibly-alike nonsense passed on as guru wisdom. Not true. Period.



Glad you stepped over here from the video calibration threads. Unlike where you are discussing how to tune Sony LCDs, we're not even talking about something that can be tuned here. We're talking the ability to send 1s and 0s from one end of a cable to the other.


There are indeed "crap" cables out there. Many of them live on eBay and those cables generate bit errors at higher bandwidths. However, if you find two certified high speed cables then the bits that go in one end are guaranteed to be the same bits that go out the other end. If you compare two certified high speed cables to each other and there is no damage with the cables, then the same bits are being transmitted across the cable successfully. Nobody seems to argue about ribbon cables or other methods of transmitting digital data across a wire. Why would HDMI be different?


How about next time providing us your knowledge and 1) explaining what cables you are discussing, 2) why did you return them? 3) explaining how they are different (if you can) and 4) providing a rational explanation or speculation as to why there are differences? With TV calibration there are subjective things, in this case we're just talking about bits. They are either 1s or 0s. There is nothing that can be done that makes the 1s straighter or the 0s more round. And, subjective evaluation, while required for video calibration since everyone's perspective on what is a good picture is different (at the very least, slightly different), it means nothing with determining bit errors or even timing. Now the perceived effects of bit errors or jitter is subjective but that isn't what we are discussing here.


For what it is worth, I agree with you that many flat panel calibrations are horrible (particularly in the stores) and have spent many hours tuning/calibrating our LCDs and projectors. I can't wait for OLEDs to become a reality in the home to get the same black levels back that we used to have with CRTs. But again, that's a completely different subject than whether 1s and 0s get across a wire correctly.


And that is true. Period.


So how about turning your rant into something more useful? The choice is yours...


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## Gig103




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Colm*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables#post_22628903
> 
> 
> If you aren't currently getting sparkles or worse, it won't do a thing for you.


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## Gig103




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Colm*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables#post_22628903
> 
> 
> If you aren't currently getting sparkles or worse, it won't do a thing for you.



I should clarify that I don't currently have HDMI in my theater, my old projector didn't have it and was DVI. So I need to buy an HDMI cable now and I was trying to figure out if RedMere improved transmission over long runs or if it allowed for the same run with a thinner cable. That way I can buy the right one.


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## Colm

Let me reprhase that. If you wouldn't be getting sparkles or worse with a passive HDMI cable, it won't do a thing for you, other than possibly allow you to reduce the size of the cable required. One of the detrimental things that happens to a signal as it travels down a cable is that the corners of the square wave get rounded off. What the Redmere chip on the receiving end does is to attempt to square up the waveform so that it looks as much like the original as possible. That doesn't fix everything detrimental that happends to the signal but helps to fix one. Because the chip is programmed for the particular cable by the manufacturer, it is more successful at it than add on equalizers. What it won't do is make a picture that doesn't have sparkles or worse better in any way.


BTW the way DVI ad HDMI transmit video are identical. If you are going to be transmitting the same content at the same bit rate, and you aren't getting sparkles or worse, all Redmere will likely do for you is to allow you to reduce the cable size. The caveat is that HDMI performance is a function not just of the cable and bit rate, but also all the electronics involved and the environment. Change one factor, and it is a new ball game. In this case, besides changing the cable, you are also changing the electronics. FWIW you might be able to get away with just using a DVI-HDMI adapter with you existing DVI cable.


There are passive certified high speed HDMI cables that can handle any signal you can throw at it up to about 25'. Redemere allows for actibve certified high speed cables at longer lengths.


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## Gig103

I think I get what you're saying Colm. Does using a keystone pass through mess with the signal if the run is the same? In other words does a 30ft run + 6ft work the same as a 36ft (well 35ft based on sold lengths) cable? And do you know if RedMere would work with the keystone or can it not receive power from the first half the run up to the keystone jack?


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## Colm

Any connection will affect the signal a bit. The good thing is that because this is a digital signal if the resulting signal is still just good enough, the picture will be identical to that produced from a perfect signal. Keystone connectors pass all 19 lines of the HDMI cable. There will be a little added resistance on the 5V line. But it shouldn't be enough to affect the Redmere chip. Of course, you will never know for sure until you try it.


Just be aware that the Redmere chip is programmer to correct for high frequency losses within that cable, not losses anywhere else in the chain.


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## extrafuzzyllama

I am interested in replacing my current cables with redmere mainly because of the decrease in thickness. I understand if the ones I have work then I shouldn't replace but the thing that concerns me about my thick cables is possible damage to ports because of how thick and unmaneuverable they are. I am not looking for quality increase. so to sum up can these redmere cables keep same quality at reduced thickness to my current monoprice premium flat hdmi cables?


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## alk3997




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *extrafuzzyllama*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/30#post_22666233
> 
> 
> I am interested in replacing my current cables with redmere mainly because of the decrease in thickness. I understand if the ones I have work then I shouldn't replace but the thing that concerns me about my thick cables is possible damage to ports because of how thick and unmaneuverable they are. I am not looking for quality increase. so to sum up can these redmere cables keep same quality at reduced thickness to my current monoprice premium flat hdmi cables?



Yes, they can.


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## extrafuzzyllama




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alk3997*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/30#post_22666698
> 
> 
> Yes, they can.



thanks for reply. I will place my order now.


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## Colm

Did you think about using port savers instead?


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## ccotenj

^^^


that is what i do... easy enough to do, and no need to run new cables...


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## MurrayW


I want to use RedMere HDMI cables only because they are thin and I can manage the cable mess better.  Can I use 2 RedMere HDMI cables in this configuration?
Cable 1: HDMI out from my blu-ray player to HDMI in of my AV receiver with the active end connected to the AV Receiver.
Cable 2: HDMI out from my AV receiver to HDMI in of my TV with the active end connected to the TV.

 

Both runs are short (6 or 10 feet) so I know I don't need the RedMere for distance I only want it for the thinness of the cables.

 

When I asked this through online chat with monoprice technical support they said it wasn't recommended and that having 2 RedMere cables in the same chain could cause equalization interference.

 

thanks, Murray


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## ccotenj

^^^


i think they are correct...


i'd just use 28awg cables from tartan (they do not have ferrite cores to get in the way)... the size difference in cable stock isn't THAT much...


ymmv...


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## Frohlich

Just ran two redmere cables to my projector and working great. A primary run and a back-up in case the primary cable ever gets damaged or stops working. Figured it was easier to do during the build than 5 or 10 years from now having to potentially rip through a bunch of drywall to fix it and run a new cable.


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## ccotenj

^^^


go ahead and run yourself some cat6 (a couple runs) as long as you have it open...


conduit would be even better...


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## alk3997

Just 'seconding' the suggestion about conduit. It really does make things easier and gives you a way to add a cable years later when the newest 100gbps multimedia cable can only be implemented with fiber optic cables that don't exist yet is released.


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## ccotenj

^^^


andy, if i ever get a custom built house someday, the insides of the walls will look like a giant habitrail...


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## alk3997

It really is the way to do it - although I can tell you a horror storry about the subcontractor our contractor got to put in the conduit. Our frame had passed inspection and after they were done the inspector failed our frame. Only time I've heard of a frame un-passing. The contractor then had to reframe parts of the house.


Basically the trained chimps the sub got to install the conduit thought that every time their drill stopped they had hit a nail. What really happened is that their drill bits were so dull the wood stopped them. And, everytime they stopped they started a new hole another 2-inches to the right or left. Swiss cheese...


Luckily 99% of the other people installing conduit know how to do it right the first time. My one regret with the build is that I didn't use more conduit (wish I had one going into the kitchen).


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## rkbabang

This has been asked a few times already on this thread, (using keystone jacks with RedMere), but no one has answered it. I've also sent an email to [email protected] and gotten no response at all.


What I want to do is go from my device (a powered 4x1 HDMI switch) to a keystone jack (this will be about a 6 foot cable) then connect a 50 ft RedMere cable from the back of the keystone jack to the TV.


Will this work? There are several possible answers as far as I can see:


1) No it won't work because the Redmere needs to be connected directly to the device to draw power from it.


2) Yes the Redmere cable will still be able to draw its power through the 6ft cable preceding it.


3) You need the 6ft cable to also be a RedMere cable to pass the power from the device to the long Redmere cable.


4) ??? something else ??


Any help will be much appreciated.


Thanks.


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## alk3997

I think we can eliminate #3. I could see potential problems going Redmere to Redmere.


I think you're safe with a good keystone. If it would work with a 25' high speed passive HDMI cable, it should work with Redmere. I have not yet tried that combination but have heard of others who have.


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## rkbabang




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alk3997*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/30#post_22723974
> 
> 
> I think we can eliminate #3. I could see potential problems going Redmere to Redmere.
> 
> I think you're safe with a good keystone. If it would work with a 25' high speed passive HDMI cable, it should work with Redmere. I have not yet tried that combination but have heard of others who have.



Good to hear that you've heard of others doing this. I think I'm going to give it a shot. I'm going to test everything before installing it. If it doesn't work I'll do away with the 6 ft cable and the keystone and just run the RedMere cable from the switch through a low voltage plate into the wall then directly to the TV. Not as pretty, but a good backup plan. I'll report back here after I'm done with it, (probably late next week).


Thanks.


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## rkbabang

Just a quick update on using a RedMere with a keystone jack. Monoprice finally replied to my email this morning. It sounds like they are not sure it will work either. I guess there is no way to know other than try it out. This was the reply I received:

_"Thank you for contacting us here at Monoprice.com, in regards to your question, it is quite likely with a long run and through a switch and a keystone you may experience signal loss, i would recommend trying to run the 50ft redmere cable directly from source to device if you have any signal loss issues"_


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## zacjones

I'm gonna give it a shot too. I've got quite a mess of an HDMI signal chain: 6' standard or redmere cables from sources to receiver / 30' redmere cable or 35' 22awg cable to coupler or extender / 15' 36 awg redmere cable (projector scissor lift) / right angle port saver into projector.


I've already had good success for the last week with HTPC - 60' redmere cable - receiver - 35' 22awg cable - 28 awg port saver - projector. Theater updates included a scissor lift for the projector, and relocation of all equipment to the adjacent office closet.


Still putting together what's looking like a $200 order. Unfortunately there's no other way but trial, error, success, RMA. I'll just hook up everything within a few feet of each other so I won't have to unravel cable(s) unnecessarily. The 60' redmere is already a winner, so I'll be keeping that for a run to the main TV downstairs.


Here's hoping I'll find a combination that works. I'll report back with my findings. Wish me luck!


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## alk3997

Absoutely - Good luck!


If it will make you feel any better, imagine the cost of your order if you (not that you would) purchased the cables in BB...


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## rkbabang

OK, I did my install and the keystone jack did not work for me with the 50' RedMere cable. I ended up needing a 12' cable to go from where I put my equipment to my wall plate with the keystone jack and the 50' RedMere going from the keystone jack to the TV. I got no picture, no sound, nothing. I ended up doing plan B. I ran the 50'Redmere directly from the equipment, through a low voltage wall plate, and all the way to the TV. It works perfectly. 1080p and sound, no problems.


So it appears that the cables work well, but need to be run directly from the device to the TV. Maybe the 12' cable going to the keystone jack was too long and it would have worked with a shorter one, but I didn't try it.


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## Garrick

I wanted to report back my findings and testing with my new Monoprice Redmere cables. I got the white ones and purchased 2 x 6' and 2 x 10' cables for players to recievers and a 15' foot cable for an inwall run in our bedroom.


The Redmere cables all work perfectly fine with all the newer equipment that I have (Sony 55" LED TV, Yamaha Aventage reciever, etc)


Where I am having issues is with older DVI equipment. I have an old Viewsonic TV with DVI only and an old Yamaha reciever whch has HDMI but it must be an early implementation as it supports 1080p but no audio. I suspect that the old HDMI and DVI ports (ones that do not have HDCP) probably do not provide the necessary voltage to activate the chip. First the 15' cable was tested successfully direct to the Sony TV and Aventage reciever. Also successful from my Panasonic BD to Aventage reciever and passive cable from reciever to TV.


While I did read some rumblings of DVI working, I suspect t must be a newer implementation.


15' cable from Old Yamaha to Viewsonic (via Monoprice HDMI to DVI adaptor) and passive cable from BD to reciever = no dice

15' cable from BD to reciever and passive cable from reciever to TV = no dice


If my theory is correct and neither the TV nor reciever provide the necessary voltage signals to power the Redmere chip, I wonder if I get a new TV (perfect excuse to get a new one!) would the 15' Redmere cable work from the TV directly to the reciever and I'll just use passive cables from the reciever to my sources?


----------



## p3Orion

Are these cables flexible enough to bend downward so that they are hidden behind the rear panel when connected to TVs that have horizontal HDMI ports on the sides like the Panasonic ST50?

 


I was think of purchasing one or more since the ones I'm using ( http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024008&p_id=3992&seq=1&format=2 ) are very visible. I thought about just getting some 270 degree port protectors, but I might try the redmere. Maybe just one and run it from my AVR to the TV and then use the ferrite core ones to connect my devices to the AVR.


I'm referring to this one:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1025503&p_id=9889&seq=1&format=2


----------



## Colm

You have to be careful with how tight you bend an HDMI cable. It the cable is stressed near the connector, the connections between the cable and the connector may fail. If it is bent too tightly elsewhere, the geometry of the cable can be upset and affect its performance. A 2" bend minimum radius is probably safe with a 28 AWG cable like you have now. But I bet you would have a hard time achieving that near the connector because of the ferrites. The Redmere cable you are considering is 36 AWG, so you could safely achieving a bit tighter bend radius. You might want to ask monoprice what the minimum bend radius for it is.


----------



## Joe Fernand

Garrick – Active cables tend to have the ‘equalizer’ circuitry at the Sink (Display) end of the cable but pull power from the Source end of the cable so can’t see a new TV being the solution to your problem!


Smart thinking though










Joe


----------



## PlasmaPZ80U

 http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025501&p_id=9169&seq=1&format=2 

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025503&p_id=9891&seq=1&format=2 


are these both the same gauge? and what gauge are they?


I got two of the top link yesterday to use between my PS3 and Sony AVR and the AVR and my Samsung UN46EH6030 and so far everything is working great. I was surprised to see how thin and light these cables are, especially after trying 24 AWG ones with terrible results (lots of audio drop-outs, some video drop-outs, and stressed HDMI ports from the cables from pulling and twisting on them). To be fair, though, the 24 AWG cables were just long enough for my setup (8' from PS3 to AVR and 10' from AVR to TV) and so they were bent a lot more, whereas the RedMere ones are 15' each.


----------



## p3Orion




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PlasmaPZ80U*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/60#post_22800465
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025501&p_id=9169&seq=1&format=2
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025503&p_id=9891&seq=1&format=2
> 
> are these both the same gauge? and what gauge are they?
> 
> I got two of the top link yesterday to use between my PS3 and Sony AVR and the AVR and my Samsung UN46EH6030 and so far everything is working great. I was surprised to see how thin and light these cables are, especially after trying 24 AWG ones with terrible results (lots of audio drop-outs, some video drop-outs, and stressed HDMI ports from the cables from pulling and twisting on them). To be fair, though, the 24 AWG cables were just long enough for my setup (8' from PS3 to AVR and 10' from AVR to TV) and so they were bent a lot more, whereas the RedMere ones are 15' each.



I believe they are both 36 AWG.


From monoprice:

*15ft Slim Series High Speed HDMI® Cable w/ RedMere® Technology*


"Normally a cable of this length would require minimum 26 AWG conductors to support High Speed HDMI features, but the RedMere chip in this cable allows it to support all High Speed HDMI features with only 36 AWG conductors."

*15ft Ultra Slim Series High Performance HDMI® Cable w/ RedMere® Technology - Black*


"Normally a cable of this length would require minimum 28 AWG conductors to support High Speed HDMI features, but the RedMere chip in this cable allows it to support all High Speed HDMI features with only 36 AWG conductors."


----------



## bkedelen

The ultra slim line appears to have a more attractive terminator, but perhaps thinner shielding? I agree that their descriptions hint that they may both be 36AWG. It is a shame that their longer cables are not available with CL-2 rated insulation. If anyone has handled both the slim and ultra slim series and can make a recommendation on which they prefer that would probably be helpful. I have some slim series cables that are fine but for some reason I am a little nervous about them since I got bit on the original run. To my eye they look like a freshman effort compared to the ultra slim cables, but again I would like to hear from someone who has worked with both.


----------



## Garrick




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe Fernand*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/30#post_22799636
> 
> 
> Garrick – Active cables tend to have the ‘equalizer’ circuitry at the Sink (Display) end of the cable but pull power from the Source end of the cable so can’t see a new TV being the solution to your problem!
> 
> Smart thinking though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joe



Hey Joe,


You are 100% right. I got a new TV and tried the test again and it looks like the Yamaha reciever is the problem and likely is not sending enough power to activate the cable however, it also seems that the Viewsonic DVI TV is also a factor in enabling the Redmere cable.


- Using Redmere from the new TV to my Panasonic Blu-ray direct = works no problem.

- Using Redmere from the new TV to my Yamaha reciever then passive from the Yamaha to my Panasonic Blu-ray = no dice

- Using passive from new TV to my Yamaha reciever then Redmere from the Yamaha to my Panasonic Blu-ray = no dice

- Using Redmere from the Viewsonic to my Panasonic Blu-ray direct = no dice


Looks like the older HDMI 1.0 spec and older DVI devices do not support Redmere. My testing with my newer Yamaha Reciever (RX-A1010) vs old (HTR-6130) shows that the newer unit has no problems at all with Redmere so if you have any older HDMI or DVI hardware, there is a likely chance, Redmere will NOT work. My big issue is that Monoprice indicates that "They can be used in any application in which a normal HDMI cable can be used" and this is not true if my HTR-6130 Yamaha supports 1080p HDMI but not the Redmere cables. No where does it indicate that older implmentations of HDMI may not work...


----------



## PlasmaPZ80U




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bkedelen*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/60#post_22804195
> 
> 
> The ultra slim line appears to have a more attractive terminator, but perhaps thinner shielding? I agree that their descriptions hint that they may both be 36AWG. It is a shame that their longer cables are not available with CL-2 rated insulation. If anyone has handled both the slim and ultra slim series and can make a recommendation on which they prefer that would probably be helpful. I have some slim series cables that are fine but for some reason I am a little nervous about them since I got bit on the original run. To my eye they look like a freshman effort compared to the ultra slim cables, but again I would like to hear from someone who has worked with both.



the red slim ones are in-wall rated


the black or white ultra-slim ones are not

*"TS - Josh L : PID 9169 is in wall rated while 9891 is not

TS - Josh L : and the connector head on 9891 is slimmer than 9169

me: are both high-speed/

me: ?*

TS - Josh L : yes

me: so aside from those two differences the two are identical in performance/support for HDMI features?

TS - Josh L : yes

TS - Josh L : that is correct

TS - Josh L : just the in wall rating and the size of the connector head"*


----------



## zacjones

Just wanted to report back that any number of combinations worked for me.


HTPC GT630 - 60' redmere - AVR-4311 - 35' 22awg - active EQ extender repeater - 15' redmere - swivel connector port saver - DLA-RS45.

PS3 - 6' cheapo cable - AVR-4311 - 60' redmere - active EQ extender repeater - 15' redmere - swivel connector port saver - DLA-RS45


So I can recommend using redmere cables to and from an AVR, and joining them to each other and to non-redmere cables with this $12 coupler/extender. Adding the swivel port saver at the end is OK too in my chain. These cables are light enough that I don't feel the need for port savers unless space is at a premium. I didn't even open the package of the $2 coupler as others had reported problems adding couplers into the chain, and the power draw of the $12 active one in addition to that of the redmere cables did not seem to be a problem.

 

 


I prefer the cables from the 'slim' line vs the 'ultra slim' line due to the strain relief and sturdier but uglier heads. They would have been attractive if they were all black. The heads are nearly identical in size for anything over 15'. Apparently the slim version is also in-wall rated. Even better. I noticed no difference in flexibility between the two 28awg cables, but I wouldn't call either one particularly flexible. Only the 15' and under would I call flexible, and they are that.


----------



## zacjones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *p3Orion*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/30#post_22796965
> 
> 
> Are these cables flexible enough to bend downward so that they are hidden behind the rear panel when connected to TVs that have horizontal HDMI ports on the sides like the Panasonic ST50?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was think of purchasing one or more since the ones I'm using ( http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024008&p_id=3992&seq=1&format=2 ) are very visible. I thought about just getting some 270 degree port protectors, but I might try the redmere. Maybe just one and run it from my AVR to the TV and then use the ferrite core ones to connect my devices to the AVR.
> 
> 
> I'm referring to this one:
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1025503&p_id=9889&seq=1&format=2



I like your plan with the 270 degree connector, 15' redmere, and ferrite cores.


----------



## brianlvi3

According to Monoprice tech support you can not use an extender with RedMere HDMI cables and both the slim and the ultra slim are identical except for the ends. They are both rated the same according to Monoprice, same diameter, same wire size etc. I have nothing to compare but just what they are telling me.


I asking 4 times what is the difference? They said nothing but the ends, same rating blah blah.


So I am not really sure as to what the difference is?


----------



## bearxor

Has anyone run one of these under a carpet? I'm thinking about being able to move my a/v stand to the front of the room and use a redmere cable under the carpet to connect to my projector. Right now I have about 5 speaker cables run under the carpet so I was just wondering if the redmere cable would e about as thick as that, it's hard to tell from the pics.


----------



## zacjones




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *brianlvi3*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/60#post_22847245
> 
> 
> According to Monoprice tech support you can not use an extender with RedMere HDMI cables and both the slim and the ultra slim are identical except for the ends. They are both rated the same according to Monoprice, same diameter, same wire size etc.



I have both of the cables and they appear to be identical other than the ends. I prefer the slim ends because although they aren't quite as slick looking, they look more reliable to me. I don't know about monoprice tech support, but I WAS able to use redmere cables, regular cables, repeater/extenders, and port savers in every configuration I tried. See my previous posts in this thread.


----------



## PlasmaPZ80U




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zacjones*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/60#post_22896549
> 
> 
> I have both of the cables and they appear to be identical other than the ends. I prefer the slim ends because although they aren't quite as slick looking, they look more reliable to me. I don't know about monoprice tech support, but I WAS able to use redmere cables, regular cables, repeater/extenders, and port savers in every configuration I tried. See my previous posts in this thread.



be aware that the 'slim' ones have pretty wide plastic near the connectors and so using them in-line on a AVR might not work as expected... it happened to me and I had to swap them with the 'ultra-slim' ones

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1447534/minimum-awg-for-a-given-hdmi-cable-length-setup-high-speed-hdmi-cables#post_22870987


----------



## Guspaz

Just thought I'd pop in and give my experience on these cables.


I've got a home theatre setup with a bunch of inputs and two outputs (Epson home theatre projector, Dell U2711 monitor). They all run through a monoprice 4x2 matrix switch, and a Sony AV receiver sits between the switch and the projector


Everything in there was using 28AWG Monoprice cables except the run to the projector (it's 24AWG, IIRC). Everything was working dandy except deep colour from the PS3 to the U2711. That run was a 3 foot 28AWG cable , the switcher, and then a 10 foot 28AWG. Any time I'd switch the PS3 to deep colour, I'd get sparkles.


I ordered two of the ultra-slim cables: a 6-foot black ultra-slim, and a 10-foot white ultra-slim. Put them in-line, the 6-ft between the PS3 and the switch, and the 10-ft between the switch and the U2711. Deep colour now works perfectly on the U2711 (no sparkles), and the cables are a ton thinner to boot.


I'm tempted to replace all the other 28AWG cables with the ultra-slim 36AWG ones, and the 24AWG run (40 feet, but could probably be done with a 25 or 30 foot cable) with one of the 28AWG redmere cables... The only thing stopping me from replacing everything is the lack of colour selection (I had colour-coded all my 28AWG cables to make it easy to tell which is which).... It's also pretty darned expensive. But it'd make everything so much more manageable...


----------



## SpykeYs

Hey Guys,


I'm having a big problem with my new tv










major issue is this..


My receiver and cable box are located 40ft away from my TV. I use 2 x HDMI 40 FT cables (with redmere) from monoprice.


This setup was working fine with my Sony KDL50EX645.


However, now, with my Sony KDL55HX850 on all 4 HDMI ports, if I enable 1080p on my blu-ray player, my screen flickers and goes on and off.


Do I have a faulty TV ? Or is it simply that my TV does not support cable with redmere ?


I will try to order a different 40ft HDMI cable to see if I can get it to work..


What do you guys suggest ? Shall I order a normal HDMI 40FT 22AWG from monoprice ?


Any help is greatly appreciated.


Thanks!


----------



## Doctego




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SpykeYs*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/60#post_22964996
> 
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> 
> I'm having a big problem with my new tv
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> major issue is this..
> 
> 
> My receiver and cable box are located 40ft away from my TV. I use 2 x HDMI 40 FT cables (with redmere) from monoprice.
> 
> 
> This setup was working fine with my Sony KDL50EX645.
> 
> 
> However, now, with my Sony KDL55HX850 on all 4 HDMI ports, if I enable 1080p on my blu-ray player, my screen flickers and goes on and off.
> 
> 
> Do I have a faulty TV ? Or is it simply that my TV does not support cable with redmere ?
> 
> 
> I will try to order a different 40ft HDMI cable to see if I can get it to work..
> 
> 
> What do you guys suggest ? Shall I order a normal HDMI 40FT 22AWG from monoprice ?
> 
> 
> Any help is greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Before I go dumping more money at the problem, I would first move the BD player close to the TV and use a short high speed HDMI cable to test. See if that works. There are other settings to play with but try that first and then maybe Andy or one of the others can chime in by then.


----------



## SpykeYs

Hi Doctego,


Here is more information on my issue..


I do have 2 Blu-Ray player to test with. Both Blu-Ray player are behaving the same way with the 40ft redmere hdmi cable and my new TV. On one of them, if I turn 1080p off and switch to 1080i it's working, however, as soon as I turn 1080p back on, it flickers and screen goes on and off.


On the second Blu-Ray player, I can leave 1080p on however, if deep color is turned on, the screen goes on and off.


These 2 Blu-ray works fine if I use a normal 6ft or 8ft HDMI cable.


I have tried all 4 HDMI ports on the TV and same result when using the 40ft Redmere cable.


Since monoprice are willing to take the cable back, I have already placed an order for the following


1- A new 40ft redmere cable

2- A normal 40ft HDMI 22awg cable


Maybe my new TV is not compatible with redmere technology ?


Hopefully someone here will be able to help me ?


Thanks!


----------



## alk3997

I think we can safely guess bit errors on the line as the reason for the problems you're seeing. It may be that the Redmere controller cannot successfully handle the signal form it's seeing on the receiving end. Basically it can't remake the signal successfully. I'm assuming, of course, that you did the easy things like check the directional arrows on the cable.


I suspect that the 22 awg should be able to handle 1080p/60 since I'm using a similar cable but at 50' feet. You may not be able to use Deep Color with the 22awg cable but that may actually improve your picture quality. Since your player has to supply the extra color bits (no Blu-Ray disc has deep color information) and your TV may be better at that than your player, you may find that without Deep Color the movie has better skin tones and overall color.


The Redmere is new enough that it wouldn't surprise me that there are exceptions to its use since it is reconstructing a signal.


One question for you, are you using any other cables or wall plates between the Redmere and the player or the HDTV or is this just Player --> Redmere --> HDTV?


----------



## SpykeYs

Good evening alk3997,


Yes I did follow the arrows on the cable Source = Bluray and Display = TV


Once my setup is confirmed to work, I will be adding wall plates but as of right now, the redmere 40ft cable goes from my BR Player to TV straigth.


My new monoprice order has just shipped and I should be getting it tomorrow.


I ordered a different redmere cable (ordered the ultra slim). I'll see if this one works


As a backup, i've also ordered a regular 22awg 40ft hdmi cable.


I will post my results as soon as it's tested.


Thanks for the help!!


----------



## alk3997

I think that either means the Redmere you used was defective or the signal could not be reconstructed. You've done everything right in troubleshooting.


I'll be interested in hearing your results with the new cables.


----------



## PlasmaPZ80U




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alk3997*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/60#post_22966609
> 
> 
> You may not be able to use Deep Color with the 22awg cable but that may actually improve your picture quality. Since your player has to supply the extra color bits (no Blu-Ray disc has deep color information) *and your TV may be better at that than your player*, you may find that without Deep Color the movie has better skin tones and overall color.



I'm not sure I follow. Are you saying that if you turn off Deep Color on the BD player, the TV will still try to supply the extra color bits (do some Deep Color processing of its own)? Or are you really just saying it's better to have Deep Color off on both the BD player and the TV (and AVR if applicable)?


----------



## SpykeYs

Andy,


Here is the strange thing... Let me actually go back a bit.. About 2 months ago, I decided that I want to have my Receiver 40ft away from my TV.


My setup is as folowing:


-TV is located in the living room

- Blu-Ray is located in the living room

- Cable Box is located in the living room

- Receiver is located 40ft away


I bought 3 x 40 FT Redmere HDMI Cable


1. Blu-Ray -> 40 FT Redmere -> Receiver

2. Cable Box -> 40 FT Redmere -> Receiver

3. Receiver -> 40 FT Redmere -> TV


The first time I tried it with my old Samsung LNT4669F (4 years old LCD), as soon as I turn 1080p or deep color from my blu-ray, the TV Screen would go on and off. At this time, I said, probably a TV compatibility issue.. I decided to go buy a TV (Wanted a new one anyway).


So I bought the Sony KDL50EX645 TV..


With this Sony 50'' TV, everything was working like a charm..


Unfortunately, lots of flash lighting and clouding so I returned the TV and decided to get a Sony KDL55HX850 3D TV.


Now with my new Sony 55'' TV, back to same issue as my Samsung TV.


And for the Samsung and Sony 55'' TV.. I did try to remove the receiver from the mix and connect the blu-ray to tv directly with the 40ft redmere cable and same result (flickering and screen going on and off)


However, with both the Samsung and Sony 55'', when using a 6ft or 10ft HDMI high speed cable, no issue there..


Also... to add to the mix..


I bought an HDMI switch from monoprice (4 ports).. On the Samsung TV, when using the switch, the screen was doing the same thing.. flickering and going on and off. I then decided to get 6ft 24AWG cables and same issue.. I haven't tried that on the Sony yet.


Finally, I just received my new monoprice order.


I've got a new 40ft Redmere HDMI (Superslim serie) as I wanted to try a different redmere cable. Also received a normal 22awg 40ft cable (this thing is BIG).


I will post results tonight..


In the meantime, with all the additionnal information i've added, feel free to comment..


Thanks,

Pierre


----------



## SpykeYs

Hey Guys,


Sorry I did not get a chance to give you all an update this weekend..


It turned out that 2 of the 4 redmere cables were faulty.


I found out that the HDMI cable from my Receiver to TV was faulty therefor, any devices plugged to my receiver was flickering. I've changed this cable with the new one I received and Blu-Ray started to work fine. Then I tested all the other 3 cables to find out that 1 of them was also faulty.


I don't know what happened in my previous testing, I guess I did it wrong.


All that to say that now everything is working 100% fine using 40ft redmere cables.


I've also tested them using a keystone and a normal 6ft hdmi cable and was getting full bandwidth with 3D and Deep color turned on.


So yes these HDMI Redmere Cable works fine, when not DOA..


Monoprice has been great with either refunding the faulty ones or sending me new ones, although I had to pay for shipping.


Thanks again!


----------



## KBMAN

Hey guys,

I have a 35 ft standard speed cable from receiver to projector. What has been happening for me is that I get slight and quick 'pauses' randomly on BLURAY ONLY. I then tried a 20 ft standard and it was just fine (tested in the living room). I cut the ends off the 35 in-wall 22 AWG cable and took a picture to send to monoprice for a credit. I'm about to pull the trigger on a redmere 40 ft, and will try it in the theater room first










Anyway, I also have a DVI cable in the ceiling and decided to try that (w/ hdmi adapters on each end). There was no signal coming from the PS3 to Receiver to DARBLET (could be the issue) to projector. A little OT, but can you use a DVI cable with the DARBLET??? many thanks in advance!


----------



## alk3997

Theoretically, *YES YOU CAN*


Actually you can even send audio over a DVI cable, it's just that the DVI chipsets that send DVI signals don't include audio. But if you took an HDMI output (audio and video), converted to DVI with a simple adapter and then on the other end of the DVI cable converted back to HDMI, that should give you a good signal (audio and video). You may be missing the ability to use some optional HDMI features such as ARC but from an audio/video standpoint it should work.


Now would that also give you more of a chance of bit errors? I'd have to think it would since it isn't a high speed HDMI cable. I suspect that is what is happening with your cable. However, to be sure change your PS3 to 1080i output resolution with Deep Color OFF - remember there are multiple PS3 menu steps required to disable Deep Color. If that works, then it was likely bit errors. If that doesn't work, then make sure all of the HDMI options (such as CEC) are disabled and try again.


Not really OT since those are the questions this forum was setup for.


----------



## KBMAN

alk3997,

what is CEC in the PS3? Maybe that was the culprit, but I don't know what it is/or does....


----------



## KBMAN

also just talked with tech support at monoprice....this tech said for the best possible connection, use one redmere cable from source to projector...BUT I need to run from PS3 to Receiver to Darblet to Projector. Do I have to use all redmere in this case?????


----------



## karlsch




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KBMAN*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/60#post_23002477
> 
> 
> also just talked with tech support at monoprice....this tech said for the best possible connection, use one redmere cable from source to projector...BUT I need to run from PS3 to Receiver to Darblet to Projector. Do I have to use all redmere in this case?????



I use RedMere from receiver to Darblet and conventional HDMI cable from Darblet to projector and it works fine.


----------



## Baron Blood

I spoke to a monoprice helper the other day and he recommended these cables to get my TVs sound in sync with my Oppo's XLR outputs to a set of speakers.


Could the syncing issue (echoing) be because my current HDMI cable isn't fast enough?

The length is only about six feet.


----------



## SanchoPanza

thanks for this thread, I have a bad HDMI from MONPRICE, but didn't know you could request a RMA over the net and DISCARD the bad cable; DON'T have to SEND it BACK


----------



## Joe Fernand

Baron Blood - had to check the date there, thought April 1st had arrived early










Where are you hearing the Echo?


Joe


----------



## alk3997




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe Fernand*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/60#post_23008959
> 
> 
> Baron Blood - had to check the date there, thought April 1st had arrived early
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where are you hearing the Echo?
> 
> 
> Joe



Each of these cables comes with a minature black hole in one of the connectors. The audio part of the stream is sent around the black hole while the video portion bypasses it so that time dilation fixes the sync issue. The stream is then recombined with the audio and video syned. The problem is that the black hole continues to require energy so you can never turn off the HDMI signal or else your house may be devoured by the black hole. Recharging the black hole is also a real pain!


----------



## Joe Fernand

Does it matter at which end you position the 'Black Hole' - also my house is on a lay line will that have any affect?


Joe


----------



## alk3997




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe Fernand*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/90#post_23009147
> 
> 
> Does it matter at which end you position the 'Black Hole' - also my house is on a lay line will that have any affect?
> 
> 
> Joe



Absolutely - the direction is very important. If you don't adhere to the correct direction with regards to the black hole, the bits will reach the sink before they are created by the source. Very bad mojo since you could end-up seeing TV episodes before they are filmed.


Not a problem with the lay line since it won't be there anymore after you install one of these cables!


----------



## Baron Blood




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe Fernand*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/60#post_23008959
> 
> 
> Baron Blood - had to check the date there, thought April 1st had arrived early
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where are you hearing the Echo?
> 
> 
> Joe




Hi Joe,



Right now I have my Oppo95 connected to my TV through HDMI.

I want to get some powered monitors to connect to my Oppo through the XLR outputs.


I'm using the YAS101 soundbar right now (which will be returned) connected through the optical output of the Oppo and the sound is not in sync with the TV when the TV speakers are on..I'm not sure which one is lagging (sp?)


The reason why I'm concerned about syncing is IF the voices get drowned with the monitors I'd like to turn up the volume of the TV.


----------



## Baron Blood




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alk3997*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/90#post_23009423
> 
> 
> Absolutely - the direction is very important. If you don't adhere to the correct direction with regards to the black hole, the bits will reach the sink before they are created by the source. Very bad mojo since you could end-up seeing TV episodes before they are filmed.
> 
> 
> Not a problem with the lay line since it won't be there anymore after you install one of these cables!








*raspberry*


----------



## Baron Blood




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alk3997*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/90#post_23009423
> 
> 
> Absolutely - the direction is very important. If you don't adhere to the correct direction with regards to the black hole, the bits will reach the sink before they are created by the source. Very bad mojo since you could end-up seeing TV episodes before they are filmed.
> 
> 
> Not a problem with the lay line since it won't be there anymore after you install one of these cables!








*raspberry*


----------



## Joe Fernand

Hello Baron Blood


That is never going to work (without another piece of hardware) and has nothing to do with your choice of HDMI cable.


The Oppo is outputting the HDMI (Video + Audio) signal ‘in sync’ with the XLR audio – the problem then is every TV/Display on the market has on-board video processing and that Processing takes time (variable depending on what processes you switch On/Off on the TV) so unless you can ‘delay’ the XLR signal by the same amount of time you are always going to have an ‘echo’.


I’d also ask why you would want TV audio at the same time as the powered Monitor audio – it’ll sound horrible, In-sync or not!


Joe


----------



## alk3997




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Baron Blood*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/90#post_23009525
> 
> 
> Hi Joe,
> 
> 
> 
> Right now I have my Oppo95 connected to my TV through HDMI.
> 
> I want to get some powered monitors to connect to my Oppo through the XLR outputs.
> 
> 
> I'm using the YAS101 soundbar right now (which will be returned) connected through the optical output of the Oppo and the sound is not in sync with the TV when the TV speakers are on..I'm not sure which one is lagging (sp?)
> 
> 
> The reason why I'm concerned about syncing is IF the voices get drowned with the monitors I'd like to turn up the volume of the TV.



I have to agree with Joe. The OPPO BDP-95 is one of the best audio Blu-Ray players on the market (and its still available). It has incredibly good DACs.


So hooking up powered monitors, unless you are using these for studio work, seems a waste. Powered speakers very rarely have the headroom needed to do justice for these DACs. Current day TV speakers are even worse. It's hard to imagine a worse sound than current day TV speakers (perhaps a close'n'play record player, for those who remember that era).


However, you didn't ask us that. So, yes you would need a device that has a variable audio sync hooked up to just the output that has the sync issue. If you try to use the OPPO for changing the sync, then that would likely be applied to all audio outputs. The only thing you have going for you is that the XLR outputs are analog. Therefore you just need an analog delay circuit. Actually you would need an analog delay circuit * 7 (one for each channel).


Unfortunately, changing one audio output is going to change all audio outputs within the OPPO. Changing the video sync is also going to throw off the other audio outputs.


If you still want to pursue this let us know 1) your budget and 2) what all of the audio and video outputs for the BDP-95 are connected to. For instance, HDMI1 goes to ____, HDMI2 goes to ____, analog audio outputs go to powered speakers, digital audio goes to _____, etc It's the only way we can figure out where you could compensate for a delay.


----------



## Baron Blood

Thanks for the relpies, guys.


I think I'm gonna give up on syncing.

I was just concerned about some monitors I'm looking to buy (Airmotiv 4) getting voices lost in the mix.


Right now I'm testing the Yamaha YAS101 soundbar as I don't want a full 5.1 system in my apartment.

Unfortunately it sounds horrible with CDS so with a little research I found people are saying great things about the EMOTIVA PRO AIRMOTIV 4 powered monitors and they're just $100.00 more.

I figured why not have something in the $400.00 price range that will not only improve the sound with my Panny but also give passable sound with CDs?


I know the Oppo is capable of much more but my McIntosh system is in the closet at my present location due to space.


----------



## alk3997




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KBMAN*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/60#post_23002469
> 
> 
> alk3997,
> 
> what is CEC in the PS3? Maybe that was the culprit, but I don't know what it is/or does....



Sorry I got sidetracked on answering you. CEC is a code in the HDMI signal that allows one device to power-off another device using the HDMI cable. Volume control can also be controlled this way.


But, getting to your real question. I doubt CEC would cause the problem but it is something to disable to make sure along with Deep Color.


What I think you have is a cable problem. Have you tried 1080i or 720p resolution from the Blu-Ray player and does that work? This would only be as a test to confirm it is a cable bandwidth issue. If 1080i / 720p works, then the problem is likely that your DVI cable can't handle the bandwidth that the Blu-Ray player is sending out (which is why it only happens with the Blu-Ray player).


Read up on High Speed HDMI cables versus Standard Speed HDMI cables and that should help explain. Your DVI cable is likely only able to carry Standard Speed signals.


----------



## akumaxv

Glad I found this thread. Just ordered a few of the super slim redmere cables.


I originally wanted to do the following:


Ps3 with Redmere cable->Onkyo SR604

Xbox with Redmere cable->Onkyo SR604

Onkyo SR604 HDMI out with Redmere cable-> Pan tc-p60gt50


From what I'm reading, this would not be a good idea due to multiple redmere cables in the chain? These are relatively short runs (6 to 10' at most) and get Redmere tech doesn't get me much in this application, but I like the thinness of the cables.


I also only have 2 HDMI in on the Onkyo receiver so I'd have to connect my other HDMI source (fios box) directly to the TV.


Does this mean it would be better to:


[xbox/ps3/Fios] with Redmere->GT50->Optical cable->Onkyo?


Would this not limit my sound options?


Or should I got with standard HDMI cables to the onkyo and then from the Onkyo use a Redmere cable to the GT50?


Been researching this up and can't get a clear answer anywhere.


Thanks.


----------



## alk3997




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akumaxv*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/90#post_23052960
> 
> 
> Glad I found this thread. Just ordered a few of the super slim redmere cables.
> 
> 
> I originally wanted to do the following:
> 
> 
> Ps3 with Redmere cable->Onkyo SR604
> 
> Xbox with Redmere cable->Onkyo SR604
> 
> Onkyo SR604 HDMI out with Redmere cable-> Pan tc-p60gt50
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> Would this not limit my sound options?
> 
> 
> Or should I got with standard HDMI cables to the onkyo and then from the Onkyo use a Redmere cable to the GT50?
> 
> 
> Been researching this up and can't get a clear answer anywhere.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Let's start with the audio question. Using optical cables (or digital S/PDIF coax cables) will limit you to the following: Dolby Digital, DTS, and LPCM (2 channel 48/16 or 44.1/16). Anything else such as Dolby True HD, DTS-HD MA or multichannel LPCM or PPCM is beyond the capacity of these types of cables. However, your SR604 is a bit old and so it doesn't have the ability to process Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD MA but can process multichannel LPCM over HDMI.


Now for some things like a cable or satellite box, it doesn't matter since they can't output the high resolution audio codecs anyway. For a PS3 that can play Blu-Ray discs, it matters. The only way to get those High Resolution audio codecs out of a PS3 is through HDMI and then you'll have to set the PS3 to output LPCM only.


As far as multiple Redmere cables going into the Onkyo, I think your best bet is to try it. Between the older receiver and the new Redmeres, I'm really not sure what will happen. You'll know within 10 minutes if it is working just by checking the picture and listening to the audio. Make sure you get a good return policy if it doesn't work. If it were a newer receiver I'd be more inclinded to say it should work, but I'm not sure with the SR604.


Good luck and if you decide to try it out, please let us know the results.


----------



## BiggAW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akumaxv*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/90#post_23052960
> 
> 
> Glad I found this thread. Just ordered a few of the super slim redmere cables.
> 
> 
> I originally wanted to do the following:
> 
> 
> Ps3 with Redmere cable->Onkyo SR604
> 
> Xbox with Redmere cable->Onkyo SR604
> 
> Onkyo SR604 HDMI out with Redmere cable-> Pan tc-p60gt50
> 
> 
> From what I'm reading, this would not be a good idea due to multiple redmere cables in the chain? These are relatively short runs (6 to 10' at most) and get Redmere tech doesn't get me much in this application, but I like the thinness of the cables.
> 
> 
> I also only have 2 HDMI in on the Onkyo receiver so I'd have to connect my other HDMI source (fios box) directly to the TV.
> 
> 
> Does this mean it would be better to:
> 
> 
> [xbox/ps3/Fios] with Redmere->GT50->Optical cable->Onkyo?
> 
> 
> Would this not limit my sound options?
> 
> 
> Or should I got with standard HDMI cables to the onkyo and then from the Onkyo use a Redmere cable to the GT50?
> 
> 
> Been researching this up and can't get a clear answer anywhere.
> 
> 
> Thanks.



I've got quadruple stacked Redmere cables, and it works. For example, Blu-Ray player >>> switch >>> DVDO EDGE >>> wireless HDMI sender >>> primary TV (secondary is wirelessly connected to the other end of the wireless HDMI thingy, which causes the whole HDMI system to be a little buggy, but not too bad, only occasional dropouts). The DVDO EDGE and Switch aggregate all the sources, and then the EDGE sends the audio to the AVR, and the video to the TV through the wireless sender. It's set so that when the AVR is off, the audio goes to the wireless sender, so that I can have audio on the second TV (the kitchen is open to the living room, so I wouldn't want both to be on at the same time).


Next time around, when I get a new place, the wireless HDMI sender thing probably won't be part of the picture, as it's problematic.


----------



## alk3997




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BiggAW*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/90#post_23062251
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> Next time around, when I get a new place, the wireless HDMI sender thing probably won't be part of the picture, as it's problematic.



You might consider putting some comments about the "wireless HDMI sender thing" in this thread, http://www.avsforum.com/t/1398632/wireless-hdmi-101-rookie/30#post_23062863 , if you haven't already. There are always a lot of questions about these since there is no standard way to send wireless HD signals (with HDMI connectors) and people are curious about the experiences of those who have tried one.


----------



## daWill

Recently got around to buying a 3d capable receiver. Previously I was running toslink cable from my 3d bluray player and 3d media boxes to my non 3d receiver and have my projector connected up via a 50ft hdmi cable (monoprice 22awg silver plated cl2). This seemed to work fine, although I know I was way over spec of the cable. Now with the pass through of the receiver I'm seeing breakup and freezing of fast paced 3d motion. I have 6ft redmeres running to the receiver and still the 50ft cable running from the receiver to the projector. I was thinking about swapping out the 50ft 22awg with a 40ft redmere from monoprice. However I'm not sure how well that will work. I'm assuming a passthrough receiver can't provide power to amp the signal? Although my yamaha 4065 does have an overlay on the hdmi signal, so maybe it will work.


Anyways, just wondering if anybody has done a daisy chain of red mere through a receiver for 3d 1080p and at any decent cable length? I'm debating buying another redmere or picking up the dvdo air for that last leg, and obviously would prefer the much cheaper cable option.


----------



## alk3997

A lot of people think exactly what you are thinking when they get these errors - that there isn't enough power. It's not necessarily a signal power problem, which is what is implied with "amp'ing" the signal. It's more likely a cable equalization problem where the chipset isn't providing a signal that is compatible with that length of cable. The result of this is that the square waves that represent the 1s and 0s becomes round so that the transitions between the bits aren't easy to detect. So, you end up with errors and since there is not error correction on the video or audio, the errors become obvious. Adding more power would just distort the signal further in this case. There are instances where adding more power helps but it isn't always the case.


My one concern with what you wrote has nothing to do with Redmere. It's that you said you were only seeing this on "fast paced 3d motion". HDMI is a non-compressed video signal. Therefore whether it's fast paced or not should not cause errors. It's the same amount of bits no matter what the content (assuming the same resolution). So, that makes me wonder if you don't have a different problem not related to HDMI.


But, assuming it is an HDMI problem, yes the 50' cable would certainly be a possibility. More likely is that your new receiver has an option enabled that is eating up more bandwidth than your previous direct route. Is it possible that the new receiver has Deep Color enabled whereas the Blu-Ray player only did not?


Now (finally) answering your actual question, I'd certainly think with a new receiver that a 40ft Redmere would work well. If not I'd try replacing the 6 foot Redmeres and just using the 40ft one. Easy to find High Speed 6 foot passive HDMI cables unlike the 40 foot version.


----------



## techguy1975

Ive heard that the Redmere HDMI cable can cause problems over a long distance. I would just stick with the HDMI cable that you are already using


----------



## alk3997




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *techguy1975*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/90#post_23106311
> 
> 
> Ive heard that the Redmere HDMI cable can cause problems over a long distance. I would just stick with the HDMI cable that you are already using




Really? What have you heard since one of the main benefits of Redmere is to go longer distances?


On your fourth append, you might try including some actual facts with your statements and not just inuendo. Facts really help these discussions.


I've heard that newbie forum members cause problems over a long distance but that doesn't mean we'll stop listening to them either...


----------



## praz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *daWill*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/90#post_23103447
> 
> 
> However I'm not sure how well that will work. I'm assuming a passthrough receiver can't provide power to amp the signal? Although my yamaha 4065 does have an overlay on the hdmi signal, so maybe it will work.


RedMere cables draw most of their power from the sink device (display). So passthrough at the AVR is a non-issue.


----------



## Doctego




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alk3997*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/90#post_23106712
> 
> 
> Really? What have you heard since one of the main benefits of Redmere is to go longer distances?
> 
> 
> On your fourth append, you might try including some actual facts with your statements and not just inuendo. Facts really help these discussions.
> 
> 
> I've heard that newbie forum members cause problems over a long distance but that doesn't mean we'll stop listening to them either...



He made 3 posts, all of which he embedded a link for an HDMI vendor. I think we know what direction he's going.


----------



## Otto Pylot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Doctego*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/100_20#post_23107703
> 
> 
> He made 3 posts, all of which he embedded a link for an HDMI vendor. I think we know what direction he's going.



You're quick







I noticed that as well. He's also talking about "HDMI 1.4" cables in the HDTV forum as well







Maybe Australia didn't get the memo about HDMI branding.


----------



## Mactavish

Got my 10 Monoprice Redmere cables yesterday. Both 6 & 3 footers. Every working great except the cheap A/B HDMI switch (passive). Coming out from Oppo-83 to switch, does not seem to pass through the signal. Using a standard HDMI cable to the switch, two Redmeres on the output sides do work. Tried reversing the same cable, as we'll as swapping as a test, no difference. Odd. Not a big deal, otherwise these super THIN cables are great and took all the stress off my devices HDMI ports!


----------



## Otto Pylot

Don't the Redmere cables require some sort of power to operate as designed and are uni-directional only (follow the arrow on the cable from source to sink). It sounds like there isn't a power source if you're using a passive A/B switch as the "source". I too will be switching to Redmere cables when we remodel the family room.


----------



## Mactavish

X


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Otto Pylot*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/90#post_23108532
> 
> 
> Don't the Redmere cables require some sort of power to operate as designed and are uni-directional only (follow the arrow on the cable from source to sink). It sounds like there isn't a power source if you're using a passive A/B switch as the "source". I too will be switching to Redmere cables when we remodel the family room.



Indeed they need power, but my source is the Oppo-83 Blueray deck, and the Redmeres going out of the splitter work fine but only if a traditional HDMI cable is used from the deck TO the splitter. I think it must be something inside the splitter itself. Power does not seem to be the issue if the Remeres work after the splitter and as originally stated I tried them in both directions. Otherwise all my other connections are working fine.


----------



## praz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mactavish*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/90#post_23108770
> 
> 
> XIndeed they need power, but my source is the Oppo-83 Blueray deck, and the Redmeres going out of the splitter work fine but only if a traditional HDMI cable is used from the deck TO the splitter. I think it must be something inside the splitter itself. Power does not seem to be the issue if the Remeres work after the splitter and as originally stated I tried them in both directions. Otherwise all my other connections are working fine.



You need a powered switch not passive. As I posted above:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *praz*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/90#post_23107628
> 
> 
> RedMere cables draw most of their power from the sink device.


----------



## Mactavish




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *praz*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/90#post_23108982
> 
> 
> You need a powered switch not passive. As I posted above:



Thanks, I think I'll keep the one regular HDMI cable in line as I like avoiding adding a "powered" switch. Just using the splitter in reverse mode as it bi-directional. This way I can send the Oppo's output to either my AVR or my Sony surround headphones then directly to the VT50 display, there are audio benefits in this setup, and its a one button press.


----------



## BiggAW

I have a powered Monoprice switch, and it works fine with the Redmere cables.


----------



## Mactavish




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BiggAW*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/90#post_23113315
> 
> 
> I have a powered Monoprice switch, and it works fine with the Redmere cables.



I believe I read somewhere, maybe here, that these Redmere's don't like to be "daisy chained", and I think that must be my issue with a "passive" A/B switch.


----------



## praz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BiggAW*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/90#post_23113315
> 
> 
> I have a powered Monoprice switch, and it works fine with the Redmere cables.



RedMere cable are all I use and I'm using two splitters as well. Like your switch the splitters are powered so no issues.


----------



## BiggAW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mactavish*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/90#post_23116853
> 
> 
> I believe I read somewhere, maybe here, that these Redmere's don't like to be "daisy chained", and I think that must be my issue with a "passive" A/B switch.



Yeah, must be. It would make sense since there are little chips in there. I'm running them stacked 4 deep for several of my sources that aren't connected directly to my DVDO EDGE, but everything in the chain is powered, so it's not an issue.


----------



## edc415

These cables work great for me! Love the slim form factor. Haven't tested out the ethernet channel or audio return channel since I don't have equipment that supports that yet. Great thing with Monoprice other than cheap prices is that they replace cables if they fail, for life. Cables do fail with time, especially if you move them around like me


----------



## Otto Pylot

There are no consumer devices that support ethernet yet so I wouldn't worry about that. ARC is part of the High Speed HDMI protocol so all you need are ARC compatible devices (tv, blu-ray player, etc). However, ARC can only support 5.1, just like optical cables, so if you want lossless audio via ARC, you're out of luck.


----------



## Colm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Otto Pylot*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/120#post_23139143
> 
> 
> ...ARC is part of the High Speed HDMI protocol...


No, any HDMI cable will support ARC.


----------



## SanchoPanza

he's right, of course, but I'd make sure my HDMI cables are HIGH SPEED, which supports UP to 1080p; you don't need these...


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Colm*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/100_100#post_23139271
> 
> 
> No, any HDMI cable will support ARC.


----------



## alk3997




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SanchoPanza*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/120#post_23140110
> 
> 
> he's right, of course, but I'd make sure my HDMI cables are HIGH SPEED, which supports UP to 1080p; you don't need these...



Actually that's sort-of correct. Yes, get High Speed if you can. The cost difference is so little below 25' that it doesn't make sense not to get high speed, unless thickness of the cable becomes an issue.


It is incorrect to say that High Speed supports *up to* 1080p. First, there are all sorts of 1080p frame rates. There is a big difference in bandwidth requirements for 1080p/24 versus 1080p/60.


Secondly High Speed supports up to 10.2 gbps in bitrate. That is significantly more than 1080p/24 or 1080p/60. Adding deep color increases the bitrate but doesn't approach the High Speed rating ceiling. The maximum resolution supported by a High Speed cable is 4K (4096 pixels wide by 2160 pixels high) or UHDTV at 24 fps.


----------



## alk3997




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Otto Pylot*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/120#post_23139143
> 
> 
> There are no consumer devices that support ethernet yet so I wouldn't worry about that. ARC is part of the High Speed HDMI protocol so all you need are ARC compatible devices (tv, blu-ray player, etc). However, ARC can only support 5.1, just like optical cables, so if you want lossless audio via ARC, you're out of luck.



Otto, you were correct that lossy surround and lossless stereo are supported by ARC only (no lossless or high resolution surround). So, that indicates that the bitrate is low (in the kbps ranges). That's why standard speed cables are good enough for ARC.


----------



## Otto Pylot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Colm*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/120_20#post_23139271
> 
> 
> No, any HDMI cable will support ARC.



You are correct. I just wanted to point out that if he got High Speed cables, that would also include ARC ,but that didn't come across well


----------



## akumaxv

Hi. Happy to report I connected all the cables and all is working. As someone else had suggested, you can have the multiple Redmere cables in the chain. Didn't even have a problem with my now 7 year old Onkyo SR604 receiver. The thin cables are super thin and much easier to manage than the older cables i had.


Hope this helps.


----------



## darkedgex




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *akumaxv*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/120#post_23141536
> 
> 
> The thin cables are super thin and much easier to manage than the older cables i had.



I had older monoprice cables when I had a 720p CRT, and recently purchased an LED/LCD Vizio and used the same cables. I had issues with my PS3 not getting a reliable connection to the LED/LCD HDTV (video would connect, but audio wouldn't, and green "specks" (perhaps this is the "sparkles" others have mentioned) would show up instead of audio). To top it off, the older monoprice cable was of a thicker gauge and the cable was heavy which I believe was causing damage to the HDMI connector on the TV. This cable is thin and light and doesn't seem to be weighing down the connector.


For those who have cables that are working fine now, stick with them. For those with side-mounted HDMI connectors on their ultra-thin HDTV's, I'd suggest these thinner/lighter cables just as a precautionary against future issues from the connector getting damaged by the thicker cable' weight.


----------



## Phil17108

Monoprice sells what they call a port saver, a 28 gage 8 inch cable that removes all the stress. I use the 22 gage high speed for long runs, with port savers on both end and anyplace with a tit fit or a sharp bend.


----------



## Dimethios

I have my PS3, Xbox 360, Wii (via monoprice Hdmi adapter) & Comcast HD-DVR All running into my Onkyo NR818 with one out to my Samsung LN55C750 LCD TV all with Monoprice Redmere cables, all working without a hitch. I'm very pleased with them.


----------



## jaeelarr

Its amazing how thin these cables are. I have the ultra slim series in a 3ft run and it looks like a USB cable! Unreal.


Monoprice rules. Monster drools.


----------



## EaglePC

ok quick question


can these http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1025503&p_id=9889&seq=1&format=2 be installed in wall ?


----------



## Mactavish




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EaglePC*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/120#post_23201882
> 
> 
> ok quick question
> 
> 
> can these http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1025503&p_id=9889&seq=1&format=2 be installed in wall ?



Look at these: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025501&p_id=9167&seq=1&format=2 


NOTE: In the description on this type its says: "The VW-1 rating on this cable indicates that it complies with fire safety codes and insurance requirements and is safe for use inside the walls of residential class buildings."


The link you supplied does NOT have that note, so I would say it's not safe to use those, they are the same ones I bought for normal use, as I'm not running them inside walls. Good luck!


----------



## EaglePC

thanks Mactavish these are 30 day over there return darn I have four of those 6' and will be doing my htr construction soon .... are these worth much selling them here ?


----------



## Doctego




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *EaglePC*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/120#post_23202651
> 
> 
> thanks Mactavish these are 30 day over there return darn I have four of those 6' and will be doing my htr construction soon .... are these worth much selling them here ?



When did you buy them? I believe that the 30 days is for a refund. If you want a credit for different RedMeres, they might take them back. Doesn't hurt to ask.


----------



## EaglePC

great ok thanks let you all know


----------



## Surefire AV

Im having what i think is an imcompatibilty issue with a Scientific Atlanta cable box from optimum, connected to a Samsung LED Tv using a Redmere 75ft HDMI cable.


The TV says " No cable connected" when CATV is plugged in . But When I use a Sony Blu ray (older model) , I do get a picture and sound, using the same Redmere cable. TV has been kept on same input , when cable box was connected .


Does anyone know what this problem could be ? Im looking to use these cables at a 50' length, to setup 12 TVs with Direct TV boxes at a Bar.


thanks.... Niel


----------



## alk3997

Without model numbers and tests it really would be tough to know. But, if you are going direct from souce to sink most newer equipment should not be a problem. Some of those Scientific Atlanta cable boxes are old.


One item I didn't see is whether you tried the cable box with the TV using a regular 6' high speed HDMI cable? If that works, then yes you probably have an incompatibility with the older cable box. But that doesn't mean the DirecTV boxes will have a problem.


Also remember that DirecTV only outputs 1080i and 720p signals. So as long as you don't upconvert to 1080p, any standard speed (and high speed) HDMI cable should work. So you don't really need Redmere unless you are trying to send 1080p signals or you are worried about cable width.


----------



## Joe Fernand

I’d use CAT6 every time in your application – the cable is more robust, easily repaired/replaced if damaged and with a plug in Transmitter/Receiver on either end of the cable its simple to swap out/upgrade the system if you do hit an incompatibility, something you can’t readily achieve with an ‘active’ cable.


For a bar type application you could even consider giving away a little bit of image quality (you have to look closely) and go with HDMI over LAN and use a low cost Gigabit switch to enable you to distribute your HD signal out to your 12 Displays.

http://www.octavainc.com/HDMI_extender_LAN_HDDSX.html 


Joe


----------



## kkrull

My long run blue jean cables run fine today in my walls, but certainly will not do 60p 4K on HDMI 2.0. Adding conduit to my remodel was not an option because of the way large thick walls of concrete are configured. Rather than opening up the walls I am hoping for a two piece Redmere port saver option in the future when I upgrade TVs. In other words the Redmere input cable end and short cable to female HDMI meeting a long old thick cable which in turn meets a short female to Redmere receiving end cable.


I am kind of surprised no one has tried to mod a Redmere port saver already. It seems unlikely the Redmere chips are preprogrammed for cable length. More likely they are smart enough to adjust for whatever cable is in them.


----------



## cavchameleon

Redmere cables are basically a nice one-cable solution with a built in amplifier. There is no need to 'mod' a cable as there are HDMI amplifiers (numerous) to do what you want already if you have an existing cable. Here is an example of just one:

http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-B122-000-Extender-Repeater/dp/B000N5YF9Y/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369748812&sr=8-1&keywords=hdmi+amplifier 

 


If you are able to re-run a cable, then Redmere is a great choice for just one cable (instead of two cables and an amplifier).


----------



## Stereoguy99

Hi: I've been reading on these HDMI cables and they seem quite interesting in being able to solve clutter & placement problems. However wondering if they can only be used for a TV connection(i.e. from a display to a cable box for example) My gear is set-up is I run 1 cable from my *TV(TC-P55ST50) to my Yamaha RX-A1000 and run 3 cables to my* *Apple TV(3rd Gen),PS3 slim(120GB),and to my PVR*(forget model number it is Atlantic Scientific). So I'd like to buy 4 of the Ultra Slim's and continue this set-up or if necessary can I connect each device directly to my TV will they all work properly either way? Thanks!!!


----------



## Joe Fernand

In theory you can connect a RedMere equipped HDMI cable between any two HDMI devices – all you need to ensure is that the cable is installed the correct way around as unlike passive HDMI cables they are directional.


If you bypass the AVR with HDMI direct from each Source to your TV you will then need to add in an Optical or Coaxial cable from each Source to your AVR – which would negate any ‘benefit’ you are getting in terms of cable clutter by switching from your existing HDMI cables to a RedMere equipped cable.


Joe


----------



## CalebLevArn

I've heard rumors about RedMere cables are these true?

*#1* RedMere cables shouldn't be used in large groups or closely together like with a receiver because of interference.

*#2* RedMere chips over time will burn out the ports on source devices due to prolonged power draw.

*#3* Bonus question, I have a thunderbolt to HDMI adapter for my iMac so I can connect a second monitor, will RedMere work over the thunderbolt to hdmi adapter?


==========================

Thunderbolt specs.


Max. voltage 18 V (bus power)


Max. current 550 mA (10 W max)

==========================


----------



## alk3997

1) No - they are FCC certified to not cause harmful interference. I know people who use them for inputs to their AVRs (that's bunched together).


2) No - if they were going to "burn out the ports" it would happen the first time you use them, not over a prolonged period of time (unless your ports use tubes).


3) Don't know - the real question may be if your monitor provides sufficient power. Much (but not all) of the Redmere power comes from the sink (in addition to some from the source).


----------



## Mactavish




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alk3997*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/120#post_23385078
> 
> 
> 1) No - they are FCC certified to not cause harmful interference. I know people who use them for inputs to their AVRs (that's bunched together).
> 
> 
> 2) No - if they were going to "burn out the ports" it would happen the first time you use them, not over a prolonged period of time (unless your ports use tubes).
> 
> 
> 3) Don't know - the real question may be if your monitor provides sufficient power. Much (but not all) of the Redmere power comes from the sink (in addition to some from the source).



AGREED! I'm using 10 Remeres here, no interference, no burnt out ports, not sure about Thunderbolt connections, don't have any myself. You can also buy non-Redmere cables in the thin size now, I use two for connections to a "passive" HDMI A/B switch, as the redmeres did not like that type of switch.


----------



## CalebLevArn

I think I'll just use a plain old mediabridge flex cable for now just to be safe.


I don't want to screw up my thunderbolt port by accident.


----------



## Sebas Garcia

do redmere HDMi cable improve picture?


----------



## Colm

If you are not getting sparkles or worse with your current HDMI cable, no.


----------



## htwaits




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sebas Garcia*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/100_50#post_23396028
> 
> 
> do redmere HDMi cable improve picture?


All Redmere cables do is give the signal a better chance to go from one end of a longer cable to the other end without introducing new errors. Redmere cables can also be smaller gage cables which can help with mechanical problems in an installations.


Nothing can add additional quality to a digital signal.


----------



## Sebas Garcia

So im good with my comcast cable box HDMi cables?


----------



## SanchoPanza

I've had no trouble with Comcast HDmi cables.


The Comcast HD DVr & HD boxes are a different story.


----------



## alk3997




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sebas Garcia*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/150#post_23396983
> 
> 
> So im good with my comcast cable box HDMi cables?



Let's try this again. If you aren't seeing any defects in your picture (and they would be obvious) or audio, then whatever cable you are using is fine. You will gain nothing by changing the cables if you are seeing no obvious defects.


The defects will looks like stars appearing on your screen, known as sparkles. The defects would be if your picture cuts out completely or you get a screen of a solid color or you see lines running on your screen. If you see none of these, leave everything alone.


The data is digital. If all of the 1s and 0s are getting across, then nothing you do is going to make the 1s and 0s any better.


----------



## htwaits




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alk3997*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/150_50#post_23397746
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Sebas Garcia*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/150#post_23396983
> 
> 
> So im good with my comcast cable box HDMi cables?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let's try this again. If you aren't seeing any defects in your picture (and they would be obvious) or audio, then whatever cable you are using is fine. You will gain nothing by changing the cables if you are seeing no obvious defects.
> 
> 
> The defects will looks like stars appearing on your screen, known as sparkles. The defects would be if your picture cuts out completely or you get a screen of a solid color or you see lines running on your screen. If you see none of these, leave everything alone.
> 
> 
> The data is digital. If all of the 1s and 0s are getting across, then nothing you do is going to make the 1s and 0s any better.
Click to expand...

I'd like to add that unusual handshake problems can be due to HDMI cables. Here are some links that I've found helpful.

*HDMI Connections* 

*HDMI Handshakes* 


I've never had any of these problems since I bought my first HDMI cable, which was too heavy, too stiff, and too expensive. We live and learn, or hope to.


----------



## XBRSteve

Not sure if this is a redmere issue but since I swapped out the cables my TV cycles power when playing games or watching movies on my Xbox. The Xbox HDMI goes to my vsx52 receiver along with my other components then out to the TV. All the components use redmere but the Xbox is the only one that the TV randomly cycles power on. I installed a standard hdmi cable between the xbox and vsx so far so good after 50 minutes. Defective redmere between the Xbox and vsx?


----------



## hydrotex




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *XBRSteve*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/150#post_23403860
> 
> 
> Not sure if this is a redmere issue but since I swapped out the cables my TV cycles power when playing games or watching movies on my Xbox. The Xbox HDMI goes to my vsx52 receiver along with my other components then out to the TV. All the components use redmere but the Xbox is the only one that the TV randomly cycles power on. I installed a standard hdmi cable between the xbox and vsx so far so good after 50 minutes. Defective redmere between the Xbox and vsx?



Is the cable installed in the right direction?


----------



## XBRSteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hydrotex*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/150#post_23403897
> 
> 
> Is the cable installed in the right direction?


It is


----------



## XBRSteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *XBRSteve*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/150#post_23403860
> 
> 
> Not sure if this is a redmere issue but since I swapped out the cables my TV cycles power when playing games or watching movies on my Xbox. The Xbox HDMI goes to my vsx52 receiver along with my other components then out to the TV. All the components use redmere but the Xbox is the only one that the TV randomly cycles power on. I installed a standard hdmi cable between the xbox and vsx so far so good after 50 minutes. Defective redmere between the Xbox and vsx?


Well it reset again. I will swapped the cable between the vsx and TV next. if that fails its my TV


----------



## htwaits




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *XBRSteve*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/150_50#post_23404030
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *XBRSteve*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/150#post_23403860
> 
> 
> Not sure if this is a redmere issue but since I swapped out the cables my TV cycles power when playing games or watching movies on my Xbox. The Xbox HDMI goes to my vsx52 receiver along with my other components then out to the TV. All the components use redmere but *the Xbox is the only one that the TV randomly cycles power on*. I installed a standard hdmi cable between the xbox and vsx so far so good after 50 minutes. Defective redmere between the Xbox and vsx?
> 
> 
> 
> Well it reset again. I will swapped the cable between the vsx and TV next. if that fails its my TV
Click to expand...

I don't think that follows your description of the problem. You wrote that all the other connections are working. Based on that, I would suspect the Xbox before the TV.


----------



## XBRSteve

I turned off HDMI-cec on the TV its been 2 hours so far no reset.


----------



## htwaits




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *XBRSteve*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/150_50#post_23405103
> 
> 
> I turned off HDMI-cec on the TV its been 2 hours so far no reset.


I never seem to think of that feature, and how much trouble it can cause. It sounds like you solved your problem.


----------



## XBRSteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *htwaits*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/150#post_23405783
> 
> 
> I never seem to think of that feature, and how much trouble it can cause. It sounds like you solved your problem.


Spoke to soon it's happening again...:-( Just read that a couple of other are having the same issue with the F series Samsung.


----------



## htwaits




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *XBRSteve*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/150_50#post_23406078
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *htwaits*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/150#post_23405783
> 
> 
> I never seem to think of that feature, and how much trouble it can cause. It sounds like you solved your problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoke to soon it's happening again...:-( Just read that a couple of other are having the same issue with the F series Samsung.
Click to expand...

Back to testing. I'd start with the fact that you've had no trouble with other devices going through your AVR. Try connecting the STB directly to the TV Do all the usual port and cable swaps if you have trouble. Make your tests as simple as possible.


I've read all the F8500 threads and not noticed your problem, but that doesn't mean that your individual set couldn't have a problem. If so, it most likely should happen with all input devices, not just your STB.

*The F8500 owners thread* is probably the best place to get help.


----------



## XBRSteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *htwaits*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/150#post_23406500
> 
> 
> Back to testing. I'd start with the fact that you've had no trouble with other devices going through your AVR. Try connecting the STB directly to the TV Do all the usual port and cable swaps if you have trouble. Make your tests as simple as possible.
> 
> 
> I've read all the F8500 threads and not noticed your problem, but that doesn't mean that your individual set couldn't have a problem. If so, it most likely should happen with all input devices, not just your STB.
> 
> *The F8500 owners thread* is probably the best place to get help.


My wife was watching Directv when I was out and said that it did it while watching that. Now it's pointing to the TV. Going back to BB for the panel lottery, damn shame this TV had a great picture minimal flash-lighting, clouding, etc.


----------



## htwaits




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *XBRSteve*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/150_50#post_23408185
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *htwaits*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/150#post_23406500
> 
> 
> Back to testing. I'd start with the fact that you've had no trouble with other devices going through your AVR. Try connecting the STB directly to the TV Do all the usual port and cable swaps if you have trouble. Make your tests as simple as possible.
> 
> 
> I've read all the F8500 threads and not noticed your problem, but that doesn't mean that your individual set couldn't have a problem. If so, it most likely should happen with all input devices, not just your STB.
> 
> *The F8500 owners thread* is probably the best place to get help.
> 
> 
> 
> My wife was watching Directv when I was out and said that it did it while watching that. Now it's pointing to the TV. Going back to BB for the panel lottery, damn shame this TV had a great picture minimal flash-lighting, clouding, etc.
Click to expand...

Base entirely on what I think you've posted I don't agree that you know for sure it's the TV. From what I've understood, you only have a problem with your STB which I now assume it DirecTV. I'm not clear on why you've concluded that it's the TV. Maybe I missed something.










Do you have more than one STB? Which sources have you used that don't have the problem?


----------



## XBRSteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *htwaits*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/150#post_23408475
> 
> 
> Base entirely on what I think you've posted I don't agree that you know for sure it's the TV. From what I've understood, you only have a problem with your STB which I now assume it DirecTV. I'm not clear on why you've concluded that it's the TV. Maybe I missed something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have more than one STB? Which sources have you used that don't have the problem?


I initially stated that it happened when watching my xbox then it started with my DirecTV. Others are having the same issue it may be firmware .


----------



## htwaits




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *XBRSteve*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/150_50#post_23408957
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *htwaits*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/150#post_23408475
> 
> 
> Base entirely on what I think you've posted I don't agree that you know for sure it's the TV. From what I've understood, you only have a problem with your STB which I now assume it DirecTV. I'm not clear on why you've concluded that it's the TV. Maybe I missed something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have more than one STB? Which sources have you used that don't have the problem?
> 
> 
> 
> I initially stated that it happened when watching my xbox then it started with my DirecTV. Others are having the same issue it may be firmare .
Click to expand...

OK. I get it now.


----------



## jabz

I've searched but have seen differing opinions. Is it possible to use Monoprice RedMere HDMI cables with a HDMI Switch and Splitter and can you use them on both the input and output ends?

I also want to use a 30 foot RedMere from an AVR to the Darblet then a 6 foot RedMere to Projector is this possible?

Lastly I would like to use a 6 foot RedMere to a HDMI to CAT6 sender and from the receiver to a TV would this work?


----------



## Iron Mike

yeah, I'm using RedMere only on my Octava HDMI switch... no problems.


- M


----------



## Mactavish




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jabz*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/150#post_23435853
> 
> 
> I've searched but have seen differing opinions. Is it possible to use Monoprice RedMere HDMI cables with a HDMI Switch and Splitter and can you use them on both the input and output ends?
> 
> I also want to use a 30 foot RedMere from an AVR to the Darblet then a 6 foot RedMere to Projector is this possible?
> 
> Lastly I would like to use a 6 foot RedMere to a HDMI to CAT6 sender and from the receiver to a TV would this work?



SEE, my post about splitters at the link below, also there are a few responses below that post that may be helpful:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/90#post_23107944


----------



## XBRSteve




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *htwaits*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/150#post_23409072
> 
> 
> OK. I get it now.


Dumped the Samsung LED and now have a Sharp Elite no issues with the RedMere. It appears a few people are having problems with Samsungs latest LED's judging from the owners thread.


----------



## Vader424242

Hi Guys,


In ordering the cables for my new HT re-design, I over-estimated the run for the HDMI video. I ordered the 50' Redmere HDMI, whereas the run is actually closer to 38'. Will coiling the remainder (loosely - more so than how it was shipped) be a problem? Thanks!


----------



## Doctego




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vader424242*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/150#post_23496736
> 
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> 
> In ordering the cables for my new HT re-design, I over-estimated the run for the HDMI video. I ordered the 50' Redmere HDMI, whereas the run is actually closer to 38'. Will coiling the remainder (loosely - more so than how it was shipped) be a problem? Thanks!



You should be fine. As with any cables, you want to avoid sharp bends.


----------



## Vader424242

Thanks!


----------



## ScottJ

Anybody know the difference between the two 50' Redmere cables for sale at MP? (product id 9432 vs 9172)


----------



## Otto Pylot

^^^^ is one rated for in-wall use?


----------



## ScottJ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Otto Pylot*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/150#post_23510877
> 
> 
> ^^^^ is one rated for in-wall use?



Both are VW-1 in-wall rated. One is "Slim", the other is "Ultra Slim" for $1 more. The Ultra Slim has better user reviews, both on MP and Amazon.


----------



## Mactavish

In Wall info still valid:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/120#post_23202219


----------



## Phil17108




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ScottJ*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/150#post_23510890
> 
> 
> Both are VW-1 in-wall rated. One is "Slim", the other is "Ultra Slim" for $1 more. The Ultra Slim has better user reviews, both on MP and Amazon.


The VW 1 rating has to do with the cable not burning like a candle for in wall the CL 2 rating is needed
http://www.drakausa.com/documents/library/flame_retardant_vs_fire_rated_cables.pdf


----------



## ScottJ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Phil17108*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/150#post_23515045
> 
> 
> The VW 1 rating has to do with the cable not burning like a candle for in wall the CL 2 rating is needed
> http://www.drakausa.com/documents/library/flame_retardant_vs_fire_rated_cables.pdf



Monoprice phrases it very carefully: "The VW-1 rating on this cable indicates that it complies with fire safety codes and insurance requirements and is safe for use inside the walls of residential class buildings."


But I'm not running it in-wall, so I don't care. My point was, the two 50' Redmere HDMI cables have the same rating.


----------



## bmcleod

I've been using a 10' Ultra-slim Redmere for about a year and it's worked great, I'm about to order several more, but I noticed this line at the end of an Amazon review for a Vizio M series TV:

... "In a high-end system, best quality achieved with a passive (non Redmere) HDMI shielded cable"


I'm assuming this guy just doesn't like Redmere's, but can anyone think of why someone would say this as part of a HDTV review?


----------



## Colm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bmcleod*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/180#post_235612600
> 
> 
> ...can anyone think of why someone would say this as part of a HDTV review?


Because he doesn't know what he is talking about? As long as you are not getting sparkles or worse, the picture is as good as it gets.


I prefer passive cables when they will work. It isn't about picture quality. They are just cheaper and don't have any electronics in them that can fail.


----------



## bmcleod




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Colm*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/180#post_23561310
> 
> 
> I prefer passive cables when they will work. It isn't about picture quality. They are just cheaper and don't have any electronics in them that can fail.



I agree, "less is more", but the flexibility, lack of bulk, ease of routing, and practically strain free connection has me seduced.


----------



## Phil17108




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bmcleod*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/180#post_23562261
> 
> 
> I agree, "less is more", but the flexibility, lack of bulk, ease of routing, and practically strain free connection has me seduced.



I installed 2 22 gage 25 foot Monoprices just before the red's came out and at first was thinking bummer because they are so stiff and I did not pull the coil out of them so in the end there is no tension. After some time and reading and thought on it I am glad to have used the big fat 22's because I would sure hate to have to pull out a bad chipped RED.


----------



## Otto Pylot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bmcleod*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/180#post_23562261
> 
> 
> I agree, "less is more", but the flexibility, lack of bulk, ease of routing, and practically strain free connection has me seduced.



Those are the reasons why I'm using them as well. But my cables are not in-wall and easily accessible so if a chip does go bad, it's an easy fix, and my runs are no longer than 10'.


----------



## nflguy

My home theater installer connected a 30ft ultra slim redmere between my projector (JVC RS4810) and my AV receiver which has all my devices connected to it. I can watch 1080i and 720p programming with no issues. However it can't seem to handle 1080p. When I try watching a bluray the picture will flicker and then lose signal.


----------



## htwaits




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nflguy*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/180#post_23593919
> 
> 
> My home theater installer connected a 30ft ultra slim redmere between my projector (JVC RS4810) and my AV receiver which has all my devices connected to it. I can watch 1080i and 720p programming with no issues. However it can't seem to handle 1080p. When I try watching a bluray the picture will flicker and then lose signal.


I understand asking here, but why haven't you already contacted your "home theater installer"? It's hard to judge the installation you have without more information.


It could be the cable, or it could be settings in any of the components in the Blu-ray signal path.


----------



## nflguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *htwaits*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/180#post_23596325
> 
> 
> I understand asking here, but why haven't you already contacted your "home theater installer"? It's hard to judge the installation you have without more information.
> 
> 
> It could be the cable, or it could be settings in any of the components in the Blu-ray signal path.



This happened during installation and the installer didnt know why. He assumed it was a bad cable and said he would get another one. The new cable he brought only displays a picture if it's connected but slightly unplugged. If its plugged in tight there is no picture.


----------



## Otto Pylot

That sounds more like a connector problem than a cable problem.


----------



## htwaits




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nflguy*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/180#post_23596648
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *htwaits*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/180#post_23596325
> 
> 
> I understand asking here, but why haven't you already contacted your "home theater installer"? It's hard to judge the installation you have without more information.
> 
> 
> It could be the cable, or it could be settings in any of the components in the Blu-ray signal path.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This happened during installation and the installer didnt know why. He assumed it was a bad cable and said he would get another one. The new cable he brought only displays a picture if it's connected but slightly unplugged. *If its plugged in tight there is no picture.*
Click to expand...

Does your installer know that the Redmere cables are directional?


----------



## Otto Pylot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *htwaits*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/180#post_23597700
> 
> 
> Does your installer know that the Redmere cables are directional?



I thought about that but then he indicated that it only works when "slightly" plugged in as opposed to firmly in place. All of my Redmere cables are firmly in place.


----------



## nflguy

Yes he knows and the cable is clearly marked. I connected a bluray player directly to my tv with that cable and it displayed 1080p with no issues. So the problem is either the AVR or the projector.


----------



## htwaits




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nflguy*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/180#post_23598184
> 
> 
> Yes he knows and the cable is clearly marked. I connected a bluray player directly to my tv with that cable and it displayed 1080p with no issues. So the problem is either the AVR or the projector.


That makes sense.


----------



## nflguy

After confirming my 39ft redmere ultra slim worked I decided to connect the blueray player directly to the projector. Still had same problem ; distorted. Snowy image and would blink on and off.


I was told sometimes an HDMI cable can work fine on one device and not another so who knows .


I then connected the bluray player directly to the projector with a 6ft HDMI and the projector had no problem displaying a 1080p image.


So now I'm going to get another 30ft HDMI and see if that solves issue


----------



## ScottJ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nflguy*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/180#post_23600138
> 
> 
> After confirming my 39ft redmere ultra slim worked I decided to connect the blueray player directly to the projector. Still had same problem ; distorted. Snowy image and would blink on and off.
> 
> 
> I was told sometimes an HDMI cable can work fine on one device and not another so who knows .



You might also try different inputs on the projector. I know on my 4810 the HDMI2 input works with some cables when HDMI1 won't.


----------



## Alky

Just my 2 cents. The Redmere is absolutely great for certain situations.


I have a very long run (80 feet, 22ga) in wall standard hdmi cable (Wall plate = AV Reciever = Wall plate = TV). This was probably right at the edge of working because anytime I connected my laptop to the wall plate with anything less than a thick patch cable I would get speckles and flickering. I tried several standard thin hdmi cables but all caused speckles....the Redmere worked great.


Like others have said, if you don't have speckles the Redmere won't make much difference, but for certain applications they are great alternative.


----------



## Otto Pylot

80' for a passive standard HDMI cable is really pushing the limit for HDTV. Passive high speed HDMI is only certified for 25', that's why some use either Redmere for those long lengths or install Cat-6 in a conduit and then switch that to HDMI.


----------



## alk3997

Yes, as the passive cables get longer you're playing more of an odds game. At some point above xx feet for each cable, there is a distance that can't handle the full bandwidth for HDMI. That could be 26 feet for a really good cable or it could be 3 feet for a not so good cable.


Luckily, the current HDMI implementation doesn't require the maximum bandwidth. 1080p/60 doesn't even come close. So, that pushes that distance out since the distance before bit errors occur is inversely proportional to the bandwidth of the signal. Bigger bandwidth, less distance before errors for a given cable (everything else being equal).


So when we are using standard speed cables, we are simply trading bandwidth for distance. Lower the bandwidth by disabling Deep Color or using 1080i and you'll gain more distance. However, when consumers want to go to 4K, (I predict) many people who thought they had a high speed cable are going to find out they really didn't and we're going to get some mighty "interesting" appends out here. Of course, that assumes 4K catches on.


----------



## Alky

80 feet is very long and I wouldn't recommend it as your main run. This is my couch potato run using my laptop for occassional movies or youtube or when I cannot stream content via AppleTV. My main AV equipment is much closer to the TV.


Off topic and I could be wrong but I'm not sure consumers are clamouring for even greater AV quality standards.


----------



## Alexdad54

Hi all,

I have a quick question that I think may have been addressed earlier in this thread but I'm still a bit uncertain.


I have been using a 30' Monoprice Redmere cable for over a year without any issues going from a 5-port Kinivo HDMI switch to my Epson 8350 projector.


I recently moved and now require a 50 foot (at least) cable to go around the walls from one side of the room to the other and up to the mount.


My question is whether I need to buy a 50' cable new from Monoprice or can I use an HDMI coupler and tie together a shorter (and cheaper) Redmere cable to my current cable to get the needed additional length.


I will also be adding in a Darblet into the chain after the switch so that may or may not cause issues.


Alternatively, could I use a regular 10' HDMI cable from the Darblet to an HDMI coupler and then onwards with the 30' Redmere I now own?


It will cost nearly a $100 to get the 50' cable from Monoprice up here to Canada so I'd like to explore any cheaper options....


Thanks for any advice!


----------



## ScottJ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Alexdad54*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/180#post_23710416
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I have a quick question that I think may have been addressed earlier in this thread but I'm still a bit uncertain.
> 
> 
> I have been using a 30' Monoprice Redmere cable for over a year without any issues going from a 5-port Kinivo HDMI switch to my Epson 8350 projector.
> 
> 
> I recently moved and now require a 50 foot (at least) cable to go around the walls from one side of the room to the other and up to the mount.
> 
> 
> My question is whether I need to buy a 50' cable new from Monoprice or can I use an HDMI coupler and tie together a shorter (and cheaper) Redmere cable to my current cable to get the needed additional length.
> 
> 
> I will also be adding in a Darblet into the chain after the switch so that may or may not cause issues.
> 
> 
> Alternatively, could I use a regular 10' HDMI cable from the Darblet to an HDMI coupler and then onwards with the 30' Redmere I now own?
> 
> 
> It will cost nearly a $100 to get the 50' cable from Monoprice up here to Canada so I'd like to explore any cheaper options....
> 
> 
> Thanks for any advice!



Can you put the Darblet in the middle? Buy a 20' Redmere (or other) HDMI to the Darblet, then use your current 30' from there.


----------



## Joe Fernand

I’d suggest trying the Darblet with your current Source > RedMere cable > Display to ensure the combination works before you spend money on a longer active cable solution.


Joe


----------



## Project H

i bought 2 redmere hdmi cables at 40ft and one of them was bad. i would be cautious. this was for an in-ceiling install and the bad cable was discovered after the fact as it worked on one source (blu-ray) but not on the set-top box for cable/sat.


----------



## Adam Turnage




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Project H*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/180#post_23724515
> 
> 
> i bought 2 redmere hdmi cables at 40ft and one of them was bad. i would be cautious. this was for an in-ceiling install and the bad cable was discovered after the fact as it worked on one source (blu-ray) but not on the set-top box for cable/sat.



I am having the exact same issue with my 40 foot cable... Works awesome with 1080P 3D blu-ray, but will not work with all 4 dish network sat boxes. Two Joeys and two Hoppers. I guess I need to contact Monoprice and see if they can send out a replacement. I can get Dish to display on my projector if I turn on the internal video processor on my Denon AVR. It seems to boost the signal enough to work with the PJ but it does soften the picture a bit...


Has anyone else had an experience like this with the Redmere cable?


----------



## gadgtfreek

Just jumped on the bandwagon, been a BJC user for awhile now. My runs are 6-10ft, but Im just looking for a much more compact cable.


----------



## ScottJ

My 50' Monoprice Redmere is working great, but just to offer some alternatives for those seeking a long HDMI run:
 Kordz NEO S3 HDMI extender attaches to an existing (possibly in-wall) HDMI cable, makes it work better
 DVDO's Air3 sends uncompressed 1080p60 wirelessly
I hear HDBaseT is tha bomb


----------



## alk3997




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ScottJ*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/180#post_23815662
> 
> 
> My 50' Monoprice Redmere is working great, but just to offer some alternatives for those seeking a long HDMI run:
> Kordz NEO S3 HDMI extender attaches to an existing (possibly in-wall) HDMI cable, makes it work better
> DVDO's Air3 sends uncompressed 1080p60 wirelessly
> I hear HDBaseT is tha bomb



HDBaseT is certainly an excellent choice. Full HDMI compatibility (HDMI 1.4a).


I looked for reviews and actual user experiences with the Kordz NEO S3 and found nothing. The only thing out there are some promo features and a note about a CEDIA award. So, I'd be cautious about recommending that product until more people have tried it.


The DVDO Air3 is line-of-sight only. It provides uncompressed 1080p/60 (but no higher) however it does not offer a full range of audio codecs. The manual says, "7.1ch HBR/PCM audio up to 192kHz, Dolby/DTS 5.1 up to 48kHz". So no Dolby TrueHD or DTS-MA HD. It's not a true HDMI solution.


----------



## ScottJ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alk3997*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/200_100#post_23816462
> 
> 
> The DVDO Air3 is line-of-sight only. It provides uncompressed 1080p/60 (but no higher) however it does not offer a full range of audio codecs. The manual says, "7.1ch HBR/PCM audio up to 192kHz, Dolby/DTS 5.1 up to 48kHz". So no Dolby TrueHD or DTS-MA HD. It's not a true HDMI solution.



Interesting, and I hadn't noticed that. Assuming my goal is to send only video from my receiver to my projector, would that limitation matter?


----------



## alk3997




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ScottJ*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/180#post_23816497
> 
> 
> Interesting, and I hadn't noticed that. Assuming my goal is to send only video from my receiver to my projector, would that limitation matter?



My first thought is it shouldn't. The audio portion of the EDID will be modified by your AVR. So, whatever the Air3 requests won't be what is sent.


I think my concern would be making sure of line-of-sight and just confirming that the video isn't modified in any way. I suspect (but can't prove) that Deep Color is not supported. However, the lack of Deep Color might be considered a positive since it produces colors that aren't really intended. 3D is supported so, that shouldn't be a concern.


----------



## Joe Fernand

_‘Just jumped on the bandwagon’_ – I fear a lot of folk going down that route!


Kordz NEO S3 is the first implementation of a new chip from Canadian Co. phasHD – I had a look at it last week at CEDIA. It allows you to extend the usable life of installed cables (up to 20m*) using the phaseHD Tx and Rx. I was quoted an SRP of around $350 for a pair – with a release date of Q1 2014!

http://www.phasehd.com/technology 


Joe


*30m with the dedicated passive cable if it’s a new install.


----------



## FATHERFORD

Which redmere cables is everyone having problems with? I see two different versions.


I just bought this one for my projector setup to do 1080p 3d.

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025506&p_id=9432&seq=1&format=2 


Should I cancel that and buy a bluejeanscable?


----------



## alk3997

I don't think there is an "everyone", so I'm not sure your question is valid. There are just some situations where the chips in the Redmere aren't compatible with some components. But, I haven't been able to see a pattern and the amount of complaints seems relative small. If you have doubt, check the Monoprice website and look at the user comments for the Redmere cables.


If you really have doubts and don't need over 25 feet, then your other choice is a passive High Speed cable. It will be thicker than the Redmere but won't have the active components. Just make sure it is a High Speed cable.


----------



## AV_Integrated

I will say that I've used the 22 AWG cables from Monoprice at lengths to 75' without a single hiccup. They do not work if I add wall plates or couplers in line, but at 75' I can get a full 1080p image with HD audio no problem. Realistically, I need to run a test with 3D content playing to ensure that works as well, but I think that the longer length cables really cause headaches when people don't buy a thick enough wire gauge and don't properly support the cable into the device.


My biggest concern with Redmere is that they are integrated active electronics, and electronics have a tendency to fail. In fact, that's what a great number of the negative reviews state - that it looks like the chip set may have some issues, for some people, on some products, which can cause them to fail. While Monoprice gives excellent warranty support, if that 35'+ cable is tucked away behind drywall, then it becomes a $1,000+ replacement issue, which is simply unacceptable to me.


Thick gauge passive cables, plus multiple cat-5/6 runs to cover my bases is the only way I feel secure with any cables which I would ever put in place behind drywall.


If you have easy retro access to put in or remove a cable, then by all means, go with Redmere as the flexibility is excellent.


----------



## Kensmith48

I've tried using a 35' Monoprice HDMI cable from an Anthem D2v to my JVC RS20 projector and I've also tried the Redmere. I get sparkles from both types of cable. Is there a cable that won't produce sparkles at 35"?


----------



## FATHERFORD




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alk3997*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/210#post_23838318
> 
> 
> I don't think there is an "everyone", so I'm not sure your question is valid. There are just some situations where the chips in the Redmere aren't compatible with some components. But, I haven't been able to see a pattern and the amount of complaints seems relative small. If you have doubt, check the Monoprice website and look at the user comments for the Redmere cables.
> 
> 
> If you really have doubts and don't need over 25 feet, then your other choice is a passive High Speed cable. It will be thicker than the Redmere but won't have the active components. Just make sure it is a High Speed cable.



I guess Ill just have to try it out and see. I have a solid 40' run so I got the 50' for a little spare. Luckily I live in a single story house with a big attic so it's not that big of a deal for me.


I'm going from a sony DN1040 to a Epson 5030UB. Hopefully those two are up to snuff for the job.


----------



## AV_Integrated




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/210#post_23838650
> 
> 
> I've tried using a 35' Monoprice HDMI cable from an Anthem D2v to my JVC RS20 projector and I've also tried the Redmere. I get sparkles from both types of cable. Is there a cable that won't produce sparkles at 35"?


That's a really nice piece of gear!


Have you tried bypassing it?


Seriously, have you tried running straight from your source to the projector? I am quite serious that in the testing I've done I regularly use the JVC RS series projectors with 25' to 50' runs of Monoprice 22 AWG HDMI cables and I have never had a sparkle appear. So, I would double check that you aren't running to close to a wire which may introduce interference, and I would try a direct source to destination to ensure that something 'elsewhere' isn't introducing the interference.


I think if it was still happening I would scream, then use a 6' HDMI cable and put a source right next to the projector. It is possible that the projector itself is introducing the noise.


So frustrating! I feel you on that one. Nothing worse than stuff that is hard to track down.


----------



## alk3997




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Kensmith48*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/210#post_23838650
> 
> 
> I've tried using a 35' Monoprice HDMI cable from an Anthem D2v to my JVC RS20 projector and I've also tried the Redmere. I get sparkles from both types of cable. Is there a cable that won't produce sparkles at 35"?



You probably want to start a separate thread and not post on the Redmere thread (since it also happens with a passive cable).


----------



## Joe Fernand

_'Is there a cable that won't produce sparkles at 35"?'_ - the cable doesn't work in isolation (esp. so with active cables).


I see lots of 'high end' AVP's which don't provide enough voltage to drive long passive or active cables.


Have you tried a powered Extender (usually positioned close to the Sink (your Projector) - http://www.octavainc.com/HDMI%20extender.htm 


Joe


----------



## Phil17108

Monoprice has 2 powered extender and one unpowered using power on the cable.

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041914&p_id=7700&seq=1&format=2 

and
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=109&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011012&p_id=8120&seq=1&format=2 .


I have yet to have a monoprice product fail to do what they say.


I think using an unpowered one is not a great idea but this is what monoprice has
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041914&p_id=2849&seq=1&format=2 


I also like the idea of push verse pull because with pull the problem in the case a weak underpowered signal

and the possibility that there is some sort of interference being added to the signal because of a lack of power

will just be amplified.


----------



## Joe Fernand

_‘I also like the idea of push verse pull’_ – works well in analogue signals, with HDMI the ‘extenders’ ‘recover’ a signal which has dropped below the required voltage and are most often best placed close to the Sink (Display) rather than close to the Source.


Joe


----------



## gadgtfreek

Just wanted to post my setup and that everything worked, for future newbies:


3ft from Directv Genie to Oppo 103D

3ft from Oppo 103D to Onkyo 818 AVR (using Oppo as a video processor for Directv feed)

6ft from Tivo Roamio to 818 AVR

6ft from Onkyo 818 to VT50 Plasma


All works like a charm.


Also using two 6 footers in the bedroom, one from a Roku 3 and the other from a Mini Genie to a Panny LCD. I love how easy this things are to deal with and how snug they plug into the HDMI port. My BJC cables are great, but they always fit a little loose.


----------



## Kensmith48

Thanks Joe,


I ordered through Amazon since I had some promotional $$. I don't have any dropouts just sparkles. Hope this cures them.


Ken


----------



## evophile

Hi all, got a question and this seems like the best place to ask.


With the new generation of video game consoles coming out, my HDMIs are already stacked, but I have the powered Monoprice 5x1 switcher. From what I've read here it sounds like it'd work but I'd just like to make sure before I spend the money.


Will the Redmere cables work fine with the switcher? Both from the Switcher to TV and from the Switcher to the components?


I don't have long runs, the main appeal of the Redmere's to me is to make cable management easier. The corner where all this is is very tight and the thick 24awg cables I have are hard to maneuver at times. Plus some port stress maybe. Having the Redmere's will make it all a lot easier but just want to make sure it's actually compatible.


thanks so much!


----------



## Otto Pylot

Hmmm, the Redmere cables are active cables in that they draw a little power from the sink end. That's why the actual cable wire can be so small and the runs can be longer than 25'. I use Redmere cables but not with a powered switcher. I don't think using an active cable with a powered switcher would make a difference because the power draw is so small but I don't know for sure.


----------



## Gpmic

First, is thee anything in between the 15ft and 30ft Redmere cables on Monoprice? I couldn't find anything.


Second, if I had to use the 30ft, do you think two would work with the upcoming XBox One? I have a projector and the kinect won't reach the screen so I think my only option is to put the Xbox One by the screen and run long HDMI cables from the cable box to XBox and XBox to the receiver.


Thanks in advance!


----------



## thetrekgeek


Hi All,

 

I am new here and have a question or two.  I am considering redemere, in large part b/c of the flexability of them.  I also want to take the stress off of the ports.

 

I have a Sharp Aquos 70" 240mhz (don't have the model number right this second).  I have a Denon AVR3312CI receiver.

 

I know I can use the Redmere from the receiver from the Denon to the TV.  My question relates to connecting my PS3 to the reciever.  Can I/Should I use a redmere from the PS3 to the receiver? (It is pretty short distance, it's mostly that the plug puts a lot of pressure on the HDMI port on the PS3.  If I can, I assume that the "TV" end would go into the receiver?

 

Thanks all.  I apologize if the question has already been asked.


----------



## alk3997

Basically you are trading the complexity of an active cable (Redmere) for taking stress of the ports. The electronics in a Redmere can fail.


If the cables are indeed short, there are thin certified High Speed cables that you could use instead. I thought I saw that Monoprice had just released a new line of passive High Speed cables.


There have been some complaints about using two Redmeres in the chain. Others have not reported problems. So, I suspect you may have to try two Redmeres to know if it is going to work. It will depend upon whether the electronics in the cable can get sufficient power.


----------



## thetrekgeek


Thanks.  The one from the receiver to the TV is quite long.  It goes into the wall, up the ceiling, over a few feet and then back down and out behind the TV.  I think the one I have in there right now is around 25 ft.  The other one, from the PS3 to the receiver is short, maybe 6 ft. so I will probably leave that one alone.


----------



## htwaits




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alk3997*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/200_50#post_23947327
> 
> 
> Basically you are trading the complexity of an active cable (Redmere) for taking stress of the ports. The electronics in a Redmere can fail.
> 
> 
> If the cables are indeed short, there are thin certified High Speed cables that you could use instead. I thought I saw that Monoprice had just released a new line of passive High Speed cables.
> 
> 
> There have been some complaints about using two Redmeres in the chain. Others have not reported problems. So, I suspect you may have to try two Redmeres to know if it is going to work. It will depend upon whether the electronics in the cable can get sufficient power.


To add to your information. I've switched to 36 AWG passive HDMI cables for input to my AVR, and to a 36AWG Monoprice active Redmere 15' cable to my TV.

I bought the passive cables here. 


I made the change out of concern for strain on the HDMI ports. I was using 28 AWG cables, but was worried about gravity and weight pulling on the ports.


It turned out that a couple of weeks ago I had to modify a family members 28 AWG cable connections to relieve strain that had developed over a four year period. His situation was made worse because right angle adapters had been used due to the very tight space available in his converted linen closet.


My 36 AWG passive input cables have been working for several months. The 15' Redmere cable has been in use for a little over a month.


----------



## cgott42

I'm looking to get a HDMI cable for a 4K projector located about 40' away from the source

I saw a 50' Redmere from Monoprice (approx. $60)

The source will be an AVR ---> Powered Switch ----> Projector (and Monitor)

Will this set up works ?


Are there other similarly priced options that I should consider instead (better value/performance)

Can I install these in wall?

Do you recommend a different approach?


(from a quick read of the thread it seems like this will work- but wanted to check)


----------



## AKA




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cgott42*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/210#post_23975107
> 
> 
> Can I install these in wall?



I'm wondering the same thing - I have a relatively short run, but it is in-wall (through a grommet) so I do need in-wall rated cable. Monoprice steered me to some of their Redmere cable, suggesting that it's VW-1 rating means it's acceptable for in-wall residential use. However, they also market and sell CL rated cable, and all information I can find is that, while VW1 rated cable meets flammabiliy requirements, it is NOT rated for in-wall applications. It needs to have that CL rating. Despite this, they include the "approved for in-wall" bit it in the information on their product page and their product support reps insist this is correct. However, cursory information from installers that I see indicates otherwise.


----------



## AKA

Quick update: these Monoprice Redmere cables, despite the information on their website, are NOT acceptable for in-wall applications. Ultimately, as I indicated earlier, you need one with a CL rating. However, if you ask them they do insist that you'll be fine with VW-1, which is incorrect.


----------



## cgott42

Urghh I already ordered 1


----------



## alk3997

I've been meaning to respond to this for a few days but couldn't get enough time. Sorry it took this long.


Blue Jean's Cable website has a number of good articles on it (besides selling cable). One discusses in-wall ratings. In the following article the ratings are discussed:
http://www.bluejeanscable.com/articles/inwallrating.htm 


The article states that,


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Blue Jeans Cable*
> 
> "So, if a cable isn't marked CL2 or CL3, is it suitable for in-wall installation? It may be. The NEC allows cable of a higher rating to be substituted for a lower rating, and therefore, any of the following may be used: CM, CMP, CMR, CMG, CL2R, CL3R, CL2P, CL3P, PLTC. CMX also may be used where CL2X or CL3X is required."



But, VW-1 is not listed in the above. CL2 (and the associated ratings) were developed as part of the National Electric Code (NEC) as guidelines for protecting structures and people. While the NEC code is not mandatory, many municipalities have adopted it as their _requirement_ making it mandatory in that municipality for all building inspections. Why was it developed? Well, in part, it was developed to prevent in-wall fires from spreading or at least reducing the spread. It was found that cables could provide a path for flames to propagate through walls. So, the guideline/requirement protects the building, the people and the buildings/people nearby.


Because you can never have enough standards, Underwriters Laboratory (UL) in the USA and the Canadian Standard Association (in Mexico, no they are in Canada) came up with their own flammability test and standards. VW-1 is their lowest residential allowed in-wall cable with restricted use.


Based on a few charts I've read this is equivalent to an NEC CL2X. In NEC 640.21(C), it states the following for in-wall use:


• (1) CL2 and CL3 are always permitted;

• (2) CL2X ("X" is a residential suffix, signifying a lower grade than plain CL2) or CL3X may be installed in raceways;

• (3) CL2X or CL3X, if under 1/4 inch in diameter, may be installed in a 1 or 2 family residential dwelling without a raceway; if nonconcealed, it may also be installed in multifamily dwellings.


So, is VW-1 acceptable for in-wall use? It may be, depending upon the usage and the dwelling. One possible problem could be that many municipaltities would not accept VW-1 as an acceptable substitution for the NEC code.


I used the following conversion chart between UL/CSA and NEC.
http://www.hca.hitachi-cable.com/products/hcm/faq/data/NEC-UL-hierarchy.pdf 


The bottom line is VW-1 provides some flammability protection, so Monoprice may have been at least partically correct in what they told you. Does a VW-1 cable stand as an equivalent substitution for CL-2X from a legal standpoint if something were to happen? I don't know the answer to that.


----------



## AKA




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alk3997*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/210#post_23993768
> 
> 
> The bottom line is VW-1 provides some flammability protection, so Monoprice may have been at least partically correct in what they told you. Does a VW-1 cable stand as an equivalent substitution for CL-2X from a legal standpoint if something were to happen? I don't know the answer to that.


Thanks for the very informative response! I will acknowledge they were correct about VW-1 indicating flammability protection. However, also using that specification to indicate in-wall approved use is just incorrect and misleading.. If their reasoning was other national codes, they certainly don't disclose this nor would those codes carry any weight in most municipalities, as far as I'm aware (I can't imagine local inspectors deferring to a national code other than the NEC).


That said, many installers will tell you, "if it's not printed on the jacket it isn't rated", regardless of what you're told. Considering they need to stand behind the quality of their work and equipment, I'm apt to agree.


----------



## alk3997

It really does go back who is doing the install. If I'm a contractor or installer working on a home, I'm going to make sure that 1) I'm meeting flammability requirements because I don't want to get sued (and don't want someone's house burning down) and 2) I want to be able to pass whatever inspections come through since failing an inspection costs money. So I'll be sure I'm going to use cable that shows CL2 (or CL2X where permitted).


However, if I'm a homeowner in an already built and inspected house, maybe I'm just worried about flammability since it would never require an inspection. If two cables provide equal flammability protection, then maybe I'm comfortable with a VW-1 label since it is equivalent to CL2X. I guess it just depends upon who is doing the installation and their goals.


----------



## AKA

In terms of diy installs, I'd be just as concerned with insurance inspection as municipal.. If the structure was insured, anyway. Regardless of it's flammability protection, VW-1 is NOT rated for in-wall use. An insurance inspector will look to the NEC to determine code for an installation.


Can you go ahead and use VW-1 in that install? Sure. Is it going to cause any problems on it's own? Not at all, likely and VW-1 would be better than one without flammability protection but this still doesn't mean it's an approved use, should it ever be inspected by anyone. I wouldn't want to have to try to convince someone otherwise, when there isn't anything definitive that suggests it.


Monoprice is pushing Redmere as an in-wall solution, even before they mention CL, and even before non-Redmere products when redmere isn't neccesary (shorter runs) which is what caused me to double check.


----------



## alk3997

Yes. It's because they don't have a Redmere product that has CL ratings - not a good reason. Which brings up the question, why don't they have a CL-rated Redmere cable? It should be just submitting it for testing, waiting for approval and then adding CLxx to the print. Of course, that also takes money.


----------



## AKA

If they consider VW-1 sufficient for in-wall (even though it's not), there is likely little reason for them to consider a CL one, unfortunately.


----------



## Otto Pylot

I had this same issue when we installed Cat-6 cables during a remodeling project. I followed this:


Residential:


Residential rated cables are rated for use in homes, though they may be used in commercial buildings if conduits included with the installation.

Residential Cables are held to a lower standard than any of the other 3 types. Plenum, Riser, and General Purpose rated cables may be substituted for

Residential rated cables.


Signaling - CL2x

Communications - CMx

COAX/Ant - CATVx


I used CMR rated Cat-6 cable in a conduit. From my understanding, a VW-1 cable is considered a flame retardant cable which is designed to only restrict the spread of fire by inhibiting combustion.


----------



## TProfit

So I am completely redoing my entertainment unit and i need suggestions on what are the appropriate cables I should be using.


Components:

1) Vizio 50" 3d LED tv (MODEL#M501D-A2R) 1080p 240 hz

2) Onkyo receviver (#TX-NR626)

3) Xbox 360, Xbox One, PS3, and PS4

4) Directv HD DVR system (HR21-100)

5) Basic standard Comcast cable box (uses RCA input)



The TV is a smart TV with WiFi as is the AV receiver (has WiFi). The set up does not need to go far distances or through walls (no keystone) as everything in on one entertainment unit and all less than 6 ft apart. Possibly even 3 feet.


I was looking at the Redmere cables as they are slimmer and provide less port strain (could use port savers I guess) but I also see you have the new cables that support HDMI 2.0, which I would love to have. My question is which cables would be the best for my setup knowing that I want the smallest gauge cables possible that provide the best and most current technology to support all of my components?


All of the components (gaming systems, cable boxes, etc) will be sent first to the AV receiver and then to the TV. Everything uses HDMI except the Comcast basic box.


Can I use Redmere cables for all of the connections? Do I use nonredmere for the components and then a Redmere from the AVR to the TV? Just trying to figure out the best setup. What are my options.



Thanks.


----------



## cgott42




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TProfit*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/240#post_24017349
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking at the Redmere cables as they are slimmer and provide less port strain (could use port savers I guess) but I also see you have the new cables that support HDMI 2.0, which I would love to have. My question is which cables would be the best for my setup knowing that I want the smallest gauge cables possible that provide the best and most current technology to support all of my components?
> 
> .


Which cables support HDMI 2.0? I'm building now, and don't want to have to rewire in a few months.


----------



## alk3997

This thread was posted just before your post:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1502818/redmere-hdmi-version-2-0 


If you want more than 15' of Redmere, your only choices are to 1) wait or 2) put in conduit so you can replace the cable later.


From a passive High Speed cable standpoint, all certified passive High Speed cables are supposed to work with HDMI 2.0. Of course, no one can confirm this since there are no HDMI 2.0 devices available. Given how few people will likely use the HDMI 2.0 capabilities, I don't think you're going to see a lot of HDMI 2.0 devices for some time.


----------



## TProfit

These:

http://www.monoprice.com/Product/?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025508&p_id=10765&seq=1&format=2#description


----------



## Otto Pylot

If you really want to "future proof" your setup, just install your cables in a conduit so you can pull whatever is the latest flavor that will work with your existing hardware. Or, just use the new Redmere cable, again in a conduit. Personally, I'm not getting too excited about HDMI 2.0 until the hardware spec is routinely incorporated into new devices (which won't be for some time).


----------



## lpnaz480

Was looking into purchasing the 50' ultra slim cyber Monday deal and was just curious if the red meres will be ok for my setup? I'll be running it from avr to projector give or take 35-40 feet up a wall and in an attic.


----------



## alk3997

There was some discussion about whether the Redmere cables are appropriate for in-wall installation. You can find that discussion by checking this forum's archives.


If you decide to run the Redmere in-wall, then you should do two things:


1) Triple-check that you are running them the correct way (there are indicators are the connectors). These are active cables so they only work in one direction.

2) Test them as realistically as possible before installing in-wall


Use of conduit, if the wall is open, is also recommended.


As far as going from AVR to TV, that is a normal way to use them. You might use regular High Speed cable for the source to AVR connections.


----------



## cgott42

Just got an email from Monoprice that 18Gbps Redmere cables are available , they mention that the new HDMI spec is available.

Does that mean that these are HDMI 2.0?



text of email:


> Quote:
> The 18Gbps Ultra Slim HDMI® Cable w/ RedMere® Technology is Here!
> 
> 
> The new HDMI® specification is here and ready to turn your High Definition video experience into an Ultra High Definition experience. Of course, Monoprice is ready with 18Gbps Ultra Slim High Speed HDMI Cables with RedMere® Technology that's needed to make it all happen!


----------



## alk3997

Here's what is going on (at least that I've heard). The HDMI Org doesn't want to call it HDMI 2.0. They want something flashier that doesn't involve another version number.


So no one knows what to actually call HDMI 2.0. Therefore Monoprice phrased their release accordingly, just confusing things more. It's tough to be first with a product...


----------



## cgott42

thanks - so, putting whatever they are going to call it aside. This is the final specs? i.e. Worth buying now?

(I'm building the HT, so these will be trapped in wall - running from equip room to HT)

thx


----------



## alk3997

It's untested with the an actual production component (since there are none), but it is probably the best you can do right now if you really want an active cable. High Speed passive cables are supposed to work with HDMI 2.0 without any modifications.


But, until something comes out to try the cable with, it's all a roll of the dice. That's why we all recommend conduit so that you can pull the cable later if the cable isn't quite up to the production specs.


----------



## cgott42

thanks, What does that mean - installing a conduit


----------



## alk3997

Conduit is a (sometimes flexible) tube run inside the wall so that you can run wiring after the wall has been closed-off by drywall. This way if you want to replace a wire you simply pull it back up the conduit and then install your new wire - usually with a snake or sometimes with just gravity.


The only tricky part with conduit is not to make it too small. I'd say a minimum of 1.5-inch diameter and more likely 2-inches is needed for any run.


I use conduit to make vertical runs into the attic and then use the attic for moving horizontally from room-to-room (and then drop through the conduit in that room).


It really avoids having the issues with being unable to put a new wire into an already closed-off wall.


----------



## cgott42

thx!


If it's going around a bend in a corner - what prevents it from getting stuck there?

Also - any recommendations where to buy (best value)?


----------



## alk3997

Well, it is flexible and at 2" that should provide a pretty good radius. However, if you have doubt run up the wall until you have access (an attic), crossover where you have access and then go down the other wall. It all depends upon where the rooms are located.


Sorry - I've never had to buy the conduit. Always have a contractor/builder that does that. Maybe someone else can point to a source and price.


----------



## Joe Fernand

_'High Speed passive cables are supposed to work with HDMI 2.0 without any modifications'_ - though that may be over rather short (2m) cable runs.


cgott42 - if you want future proofing go with Andy's suggestion of big smooth bore conduit (with a pull cord) along with an HDMI cable and 2x CAT 6.


Everything is guesswork at present with no definitive guide on Ultra HD.


Joe


----------



## cgott42

thanks, yep I have longer than 2m runs. (35')

Like the idea of including 2 Cat6 cables - thanks,

Any suggestion of what conduit to buy. I found this one, but has ridges, and limited comments.


When you mentioned a pull cord - do you mean that the conduit itself has a pull cord?? or do I add a pull cord to each cable - (I'm assuming you mean this, if so - is there a good way to do it - i.e. tying a string around it will slip)


thx!


----------



## coli

Anyone know if these cables solves ground loop problems of normal hdmi cables?


----------



## alk3997

They use copper, not optical fiber. They have a ground or else they wouldn't be able to restore the 1s and 0s. So, I'd have to say that they would have the exact same ground as a passive HDMI cable. So, no difference.


For HDMI, the only thing that would change your ground line would be opto-isolated optical fiber optics cable.


----------



## Otto Pylot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cgott42*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/240_20#post_24032493
> 
> 
> thanks, yep I have longer than 2m runs. (35')
> 
> Like the idea of including 2 Cat6 cables - thanks,
> 
> Any suggestion of what conduit to buy. I found this one, but has ridges, and limited comments.
> 
> 
> When you mentioned a pull cord - do you mean that the conduit itself has a pull cord?? or do I add a pull cord to each cable - (I'm assuming you mean this, if so - is there a good way to do it - i.e. tying a string around it will slip)
> 
> 
> thx!



What I used (actually the electrician) was a flexible conduit and installed that in the walls. Where the conduit is open to the attic area he attached a piece of cord and connected it to a nearby rafter. The other end is just curled up inside the junction box where the Cat-6 cable terminates. If I need to pull another cable in the future, I'll just attach it to the cord in the attic and pull it down to the junction box. Of course that means I have to get into the attic but I don't plan on pulling any cable for a long time.


----------



## pdawg17

So is the point of these that they are thinner or are they "better" in some other way vs a "cheap" Monoprice cable?


----------



## SeLfMaDe111985

new to the room...


i recently bought two 6' Monoprice High Speed HDMI Cables with Redmere Technology for my 65VT60. They work great with the Panasonic VT60. I took the other cable to hook up to my Pioneer Kuro (2008) via XBOX 360 and no sound no picture. Hooked them up to the Kuro via cable box..no sound no picture. Thought maybe it was just the TV not supporting it but then hooked it up to a newer Samsung 32" LCD TV (2010?) and got the same result. I read earlier in the thread that some were faulty but by now should have been fixed, that post was back from over the summer and so was the statement made by Monoprice in this thread. Any suggestions? I love the thinness of these cables but if they are not going to work then I guess its pointless.


----------



## ScottJ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pdawg17*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/260_10#post_24058689
> 
> 
> So is the point of these that they are thinner or are they "better" in some other way vs a "cheap" Monoprice cable?



1. Thinner

2. Longer distances possible


Or some combination of the two.


----------



## parlyle

One thing to remember is that those cables are one (1) directional. That is the have to be installed correctly. One end is marked "TV" and the other is marked "Source". I had trouble with a Dish "Joey". Had a tech come over to fix it. He looked at the HDMI cables and said that I had installed it wrong. Swapped ends and it worked great.

Good Luck.............


----------



## SeLfMaDe111985




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *parlyle*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/240#post_24059501
> 
> 
> One thing to remember is that those cables are one (1) directional. That is the have to be installed correctly. One end is marked "TV" and the other is marked "Source". I had trouble with a Dish "Joey". Had a tech come over to fix it. He looked at the HDMI cables and said that I had installed it wrong. Swapped ends and it worked great.
> 
> Good Luck.............



So the Redmere cables I bought should be fine then? I should just check to see which one says TV and which side says source?


----------



## alk3997

Yes, they should work. They have active components in them, so it is possible for a component to fail, just like any piece of equipment. Doesn't mean the cable design is defective, just that you got a bad one.


If you are getting errors you'll see them as you did - no picture. You could also see sparkles or lines. Errors with HDMI won'tbe subtle (such as color changes or loss of sharpness).


----------



## parlyle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SeLfMaDe111985*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/240#post_24061902
> 
> 
> So the Redmere cables I bought should be fine then? I should just check to see which one says TV and which side says source?



Just sent you a PM.

Hope everything works out for you. I got the 18GB RedMere cables and hooked them up. My mind might be playing tricks, but I think that the PQ on my Sharp LC-60LE845U is a little sharper now.

I do think that the RedMere cables are a lot easier to hook up because of the smaller diameter of the cable.

Monoprice has a good explanation of the RedMere cable specs and if you Google RedMere you get a lot of good information about the cables from the company that makes them.


----------



## ScottJ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *parlyle*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/260_10#post_24063989
> 
> 
> I got the 18GB RedMere cables and hooked them up. My mind might be playing tricks, but I think that the PQ on my Sharp LC-60LE845U is a little sharper now.



Yes, your mind is playing tricks on you. There's no way a change in HDMI cables could do that.


----------



## htwaits




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ScottJ*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/250_50#post_24064168
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *parlyle*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/260_10#post_24063989
> 
> 
> I got the 18GB RedMere cables and hooked them up. My mind might be playing tricks, but I think that the PQ on my Sharp LC-60LE845U is a little sharper now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, your mind is playing tricks on you. There's no way a change in HDMI cables could do that.
Click to expand...

Too true.


----------



## SeLfMaDe111985

Yea so that was the issue. Thank you guys. It wasn't listed on the package or in their product description.


----------



## osu fan

I just purchased 4 of these cables to replace my current cables. I can't believe how tiny these cables are.







I'm using three 3' cables connecting my Uverse dvr, Sony blu-ray player, & Apple Tv to my Denon AVR-3808Ci receiver. I then run a 15' to my Panny plasma. No problems. I love how small these things are


----------



## habe

I switched to all Redmere cables from Mono about a year ago and I've had ZERO issues. I love how much clutter has been eliminated in my cabinet by replacing 6 old, stiff HDMI cables with these. These cables make things soooo much easier.....


----------



## gadgtfreek




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *habe*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/270#post_24073370
> 
> 
> I switched to all Redmere cables from Mono about a year ago and I've had ZERO issues. I love how much clutter has been eliminated in my cabinet by replacing 6 old, stiff HDMI cables with these. These cables make things soooo much easier.....



+1


----------



## BIOSMonkey

One question I have is about the reliability of the chips in the cables.


I am planning to do some runs to a TV over the fireplace, and also in a finished basement, and while the redmere seems like a great solution for easier installation I am concerned about having an active chip in a permanently installed cable in the wall. (I also understand that these cables are CL2/3 rated?)


Does anyone know if things like static electricity, power surges, nearby lightning strikes, gremlins etc were considered in the design/specifications of Redmere? Has anyone had a Redmere cable fail over time?


----------



## ErinH

I know this was mentioned previously, but I was looking for a definitive answer from the group here...


I ordered a redmere cable and installed it when builidng my home. I left a foot or so on the wall end for slack. Now that I'm _finally_ terminating everything and using wall plates for all of my connections, I wanted to know if I can use a wall plate HDMI and go from AVR--> Wall Plate --> Redmere, or if I need to just use a pass through plate and connect the RM cable DIRECTLY to my AVR. It would be a bit 'prettier' if I can use an HDMI wall plate but I have the feeling that I need to have a direct connection from the source to the RM cable.


Thanks for any input.


----------



## Otto Pylot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BIOSMonkey*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/260_20#post_24098019
> 
> 
> One question I have is about the reliability of the chips in the cables.
> 
> 
> I am planning to do some runs to a TV over the fireplace, and also in a finished basement, and while the redmere seems like a great solution for easier installation I am concerned about having an active chip in a permanently installed cable in the wall. (I also understand that these cables are CL2/3 rated?)
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if things like static electricity, power surges, nearby lightning strikes, gremlins etc were considered in the design/specifications of Redmere? Has anyone had a Redmere cable fail over time?



What ever you do, make sure you use conduit that is wide enough to accommodate the width of the cable end, and install a pull string as well. Cables can and do fail over time, and specs change as well. So, to "future proof" your installation and to make repairs/replacements easier, use conduit. The Redmere cables are an "electronic" device in that they do have a chipset in the sink end so they may be more subject to the issues you asked about but I haven't heard of them failing yet. However, they are still relatively new in that more and more people are using them now so we'll see. I use Redmere cables (not in-wall installed) and they have been perfect, but my HTS is connected to an APC UPS system so any transient power surges etc are taken care of. We don't live in an area of lightening strikes like the mid-West or East Coast so I can't speak to that. As to gremlins, we all have them but they haven't bothered my setup, yet


----------



## Otto Pylot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bikinpunk*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/260_20#post_24098313
> 
> 
> I know this was mentioned previously, but I was looking for a definitive answer from the group here...
> 
> 
> I ordered a redmere cable and installed it when builidng my home. I left a foot or so on the wall end for slack. Now that I'm _finally_ terminating everything and using wall plates for all of my connections, I wanted to know if I can use a wall plate HDMI and go from AVR--> Wall Plate --> Redmere, or if I need to just use a pass through plate and connect the RM cable DIRECTLY to my AVR. It would be a bit 'prettier' if I can use an HDMI wall plate but I have the feeling that I need to have a direct connection from the source to the RM cable.
> 
> 
> Thanks for any input.



I believe that you need to connect the Redmere cable directly to the sink end, because that's where it draws its power from.


----------



## AV_Integrated




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BIOSMonkey*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/270#post_24098019
> 
> 
> One question I have is about the reliability of the chips in the cables.
> 
> 
> I am planning to do some runs to a TV over the fireplace, and also in a finished basement, and while the redmere seems like a great solution for easier installation I am concerned about having an active chip in a permanently installed cable in the wall. (I also understand that these cables are CL2/3 rated?)
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if things like static electricity, power surges, nearby lightning strikes, gremlins etc were considered in the design/specifications of Redmere? Has anyone had a Redmere cable fail over time?


I would never use or recommend a Redmere cable in any installation that is 'difficult'. That is, needs drywall work done. Read the reviews at Monoprice. People are seeing the cables fail all the time. Not everyone, but some for sure, and they are active electronics which means that when it fails, you're done.


I would still run 2-3 pieces of Cat5/6 cabling to help protect against future wiring needs and to use as a backup in case the Redmere cable ever fails.


I have stuck with short run Redmere cables, that I have good access to after the fact. For my 1', 3', and 6' cable runs I use the Parts Express Ultra Thin HDMI cables, which are half the price and work just as well.


----------



## chedden

I purchased a 30' Redmere cable for my Sony HW55 Projector. The cable appears to work fine with my TV but not the projector. The older Samsung tv shows a picture but the projector does not even recognize there is a cable attached. Is this a possible known issue? Is there a fix?


----------



## Otto Pylot

Hmmm, if the cable works with devices other than your projector it's probably not the cable. Obvious things, did you make sure you connected the cable to the projector in the proper direction when testing it, do other HDMI cables work with the projector, is the correct input selected when using the projector?


----------



## chedden

Other cables work. Redmere works with other tv. Correct direction and input is selected. I am stumped.


----------



## Otto Pylot

Yeah, that's a head scratcher fer sure. Does the HDMI output on the projector look ok? Not loose or anything? I can't imagine why the Redmere won't work with the projector but works with other devices. Certainly not a length issue. Gotta think on this some more......


----------



## 100pr00f

Thinking of getting a few of these cables and was wondering since they are directional can you run a blu-ray player to a reciver and the receiver to your TV with these? or only blu-ray player to TV?


----------



## gadgtfreek

I run from my dvrs into my Oppo 103, then out of the 103 into an AVR, then out to a display. Works fine.


----------



## 100pr00f

hmmm ok. I just chated with a tech from monoprice they said they dont recommend it.


I think i will just go with the big 24 gauge cable


----------



## gadgtfreek

Its been proven in here before, the whole "cant go thru the avr" is complete BS.


----------



## bhaveshr

Hi,

I am hoping i can get some advice on my situation.

I am setting up projector and screen in the living room.


Current setup:

HTPC ->--cheap 6' hdmi--> Onkyo TX NR 609 -> cheap 6' hdmi -> Samsung 46" LCD


New Setup


HTPC ====(6' Cheap HDMI Cable)===>>> Onkyo TX NR 609 ===(4' MP 28 AWG HDMI Cable) ==>>> Powered Clone Switch ===(Cheap HDMI 6') ===>Samsung LCD

|

+ === (MP 50' Redmere Cable ) ====>> Epson 5030UB


my main concern are

1. If HDMI out from ONKYO can be cloned without any issue?

2. If the total cable length is too long ( HTPC -> Epson is about 60')


Any suggestions/advice on if it is a good idea or not? I can also purchase additional Redmere cables if that would help. Or shorten the cables from HTPC -> Onkyo , if distance is too great.


----------



## htwaits




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *100pr00f*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/250_50#post_24121354
> 
> 
> hmmm ok. I just chated with a tech from monoprice they said they dont recommend it.
> 
> 
> I think i will just go with the big 24 gauge cable


The best option for secure connections would be the active Redmere cables running from your AVR to the display. Redmere's biggest advantage is light weight over longer runs. If you use 24 AWG then you must be careful that the extra weight doesn't damage your connections over time.


I've seen a case where gravity messed up a 28 AWG connection over a period of about three years. I've used 36 AWG and 28 AWG passive cables for runs of 1.5' to 6.0' but I recommend support of some kind for any 28 AWG connection.


Running two or more Redmere cables in the same signal path can work for some installations, but it can also cause problems. That's why Monoprice doesn't recommend it.


----------



## digimuzik


I have an interesting issue with my Redmere cable setup and wondered if any of the helpful folks on here would have any ideas.

 

I don't have a very complex setup. I have a media center PC, a cheap LG BluRay and a Wii connected with a 50-ft redmere cable (correct direction) to a ViewSonic PJD6531w projector. Previously, I've just swapped the cable around as needed. All of these (as well as a Roku 3 used elsewhere in the house) play just fine when connected directly. I also have a monoprice HDX-401TA HDMI switcher, and everybody plays well through it, using a "High Speed w/Ethernet" 6-ft MediaBridge HDMI cable.

 

I finally upgraded my 10-year-old receiver to a Yamaha RX-V375, and that's when I started having issues. The computer and Wii work fine when connected through the receiver, but when I connect the Bluray or Roku, the projector says it detects a signal, but nothing displays. Interestingly, when connected to the Roku, sound works fine, but when the BluRay is connected, there is no sound through the AVR... until I *disconnect* the Redmere cable from the AVR output. Then I get sound, but (obviously) still no picture (I saw a similar comment to this on the Monoprice product feedback). Upon plugging the cable into the Roku, I get a picture for about a second and then it disappears.

 

Does this seem completely weird, or does anyone have suggestions of things to try before I give up and ditch the receiver?


----------



## alk3997

I know this is probably a lot of work but I'd try temporarily moving the receiver and projector closer together using a regular High Speed HDMI cable instead of the Redmere.. If my hunch is correct you'll still have the same problem. I suspect the problem has nothing to do with the Redmere but is a firmware issue with the AVR. Also make sure the firmware is updated in the AVR.


The biggest clue you gave is that you get a few seconds of video before it goes away. That sounds like a handshaking issue. It could be bit errors (the cable) or it could be bad programming (the firmware). Only way to find out is eliminate a variable.


----------



## Otto Pylot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *100pr00f*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/280_20#post_24121300
> 
> 
> Thinking of getting a few of these cables and was wondering since they are directional can you run a blu-ray player to a reciver and the receiver to your TV with these? or only blu-ray player to TV?



That's exactly what I do and they work perfectly. Blu-ray player to AVR. AppleTV to AVR. AVR to tv. All Redmere cables, 6' or less.


----------



## Rick Johnson

Lots of people with a lot more experience than I - so posting for help!


I am going to redo a bunch of equipment in the media room.


I have a media closet/rack that is about 36' of run to the projector (Sony 600es- 4k).


Other items - XBOX One, XBOX 360, DTV (which is currently hooked to run through the Xbox One), blu-ray player (I currently use the XBox One, but not sure this is the right approach going forward).


Receiver is a B&K AVR 307, but might switch that out for a Marantz or Pioneer Elite


So - here are my needs:


Need to know which HDMI switch I should get so I can connect all these as sources (powered or not powered - Monoprice, Octavia?)

Can I use Redmere or should I do a Cat6 or both - was thinking Redmere high speed slim to projector (run 2 - one for backup) and 4 runs of Cat6 while I'm in there

What cables should I use to connect components to switch?

I think I read that I should not use the optical audio connections as that limits the latest in Dolby, etc.


Thanks in advance for the help!


Want to do this right - last time I upgraded was 12 years ago!


----------



## Otto Pylot

You didn't say but what ever you decide on, run conduit for all of the cables! Big enough to handle multiple CAT-6 or what ever and if you do run Redmere, make sure the conduit diameter is large enough to accommodate the connector ends. And don't forget to include a pull string.


----------



## Viipottaja




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alk3997*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/270#post_24127442
> 
> 
> I know this is probably a lot of work but I'd try temporarily moving the receiver and projector closer together using a regular High Speed HDMI cable instead of the Redmere.. If my hunch is correct you'll still have the same problem. I suspect the problem has nothing to do with the Redmere but is a firmware issue with the AVR. Also make sure the firmware is updated in the AVR.
> 
> 
> The biggest clue you gave is that you get a few seconds of video before it goes away. That sounds like a handshaking issue. It could be bit errors (the cable) or it could be bad programming (the firmware). Only way to find out is eliminate a variable.



Hmm. I have a Onkyo TX-SR706 and trying to connect to a Panasonic AE8000U projector with a 30fh Monoprice Redmere HDMI. Does not work. I am able to connect with two 9ft regular old HDMIs with an extension piece/connector in the middle. However, this makes the cable hang in the air so need longer. And when I connect e.g. the HDTV tuner box to the receiver with the Redmere cable, everything still works fine. So I guess I should try with a regular, non-Redmere 30ft HDMI cable from receiver to projector? Or any other adive?


EDIT: went ahead and ordered a regular 35ft one - hopefully that works better.


----------



## alk3997

That will be a standard speed cable at 35 feet. So, it will probably work for 1080p/60 and lower resolutions. It may work for higher resolutions but there is no way to tell until you try it.


If you hit a problem, disable Deep Color which will reduce the bitrate required to generate the picture.


----------



## gadgetfreaky




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chedden*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/270#post_24109538
> 
> 
> I purchased a 30' Redmere cable for my Sony HW55 Projector. The cable appears to work fine with my TV but not the projector. The older Samsung tv shows a picture but the projector does not even recognize there is a cable attached. Is this a possible known issue? Is there a fix?



Interesting. I have a 60' redmere cable to my Sony HW55 projector and having a ton of issues. If I hook up the roku or the boxee directly I get a picture. But the sony 5100 bluray I don't. If I run it thru the Denon 4520 receiver I get no picture on boxee, bluray or roku, but I do get sound on the roku.


The strange thing is that I did get it all to work for a day, picture looked amazing but I think the cable is having some handshake issues with the projector and the roku direct puts out a strong enough signal but the denon and sony bluray doesn't?


I IM'd with monoprice and they don't have a solution to amplify the signal as they said the redmere already has a chip in it.. I luckily did run 2 cat6 cables. Any recommendations on which baluns to use?


----------



## alk3997

You are likely getting bit errors. Amplifying would just make those bit errors worse. The chip inside a Redmere cable reconstructs the signal on the receiving end. There is also some cable EQ done but it does not work by amplifying the signal.


Anyway, any of the HDBaseT systems or HDBaseT Lite systems (including the ones sold by Monoprice) would work for you.


----------



## Viipottaja




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alk3997*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/270#post_24134541
> 
> 
> That will be a standard speed cable at 35 feet. So, it will probably work for 1080p/60 and lower resolutions. It may work for higher resolutions but there is no way to tell until you try it.
> 
> 
> If you hit a problem, disable Deep Color which will reduce the bitrate required to generate the picture.



This is the one I got:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LJQM3Y/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 



They claim:

" 35 feet HDMI cable - CL3 rated for in wall installations

Fully compatible with all blu ray players, Xbox 360, PS3. Supports resolution 720p, 1080i, 1080p and beyond

Fully Shielded Heavy Duty Premium Grade Cable with Soft PVC Jacket and Gold plated connectors

Category 2 Certified - High-Speed 10.2 gbps / 340 MHz (Supports Increased Refresh Rates & 48-Bit Deep Color)

Limited Lifetime Warranty"


BS or not?


----------



## alk3997




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Viipottaja*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/270#post_24140239
> 
> 
> This is the one I got:
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LJQM3Y/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> 
> They claim:
> 
> " 35 feet HDMI cable - CL3 rated for in wall installations
> 
> Fully compatible with all blu ray players, Xbox 360, PS3. Supports resolution 720p, 1080i, 1080p and beyond
> 
> Fully Shielded Heavy Duty Premium Grade Cable with Soft PVC Jacket and Gold plated connectors
> 
> Category 2 Certified - High-Speed 10.2 gbps / 340 MHz (Supports Increased Refresh Rates & 48-Bit Deep Color)
> 
> Limited Lifetime Warranty"
> 
> 
> BS or not?



It's sold by BlueRigger so ask them for a copy of their certification. I'll bet the certification is for a shorter cable which would not be valid for a 35' cable. I'd be interested to hear their response.


While there is nothing in the spec that prevents a passive High Speed cable from being 35', current manufacturing techniques do not allow it.


So, what you'll likely get is a cable that will work at 1080p/60 but if you try to use it for higher speeds (such as what is needed for HDMI 2.0) then it won't work.


----------



## Viipottaja




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *alk3997*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/270#post_24140798
> 
> 
> It's sold by BlueRigger so ask them for a copy of their certification. I'll bet the certification is for a shorter cable which would not be valid for a 35' cable. I'd be interested to hear their response.
> 
> 
> While there is nothing in the spec that prevents a passive High Speed cable from being 35', current manufacturing techniques do not allow it.
> 
> 
> So, what you'll likely get is a cable that will work at 1080p/60 but if you try to use it for higher speeds (such as what is needed for HDMI 2.0) then it won't work.



Interesting. Will try go get the cert. So would this mean that it would likely not work for e.g. 3D Blu-Rays?


----------



## Colm

No, it doesn't mean that at all. 1080p24 3D from a BD player takes less bandwidth than 1080p60 2D.


----------



## sailordotcom

several months ago I moved my HT equipment to another location to accommodate my second sub (SVS PB12 Plus) that meant to purchase a new HDMI cable, so I purchased a Monoprice 30 Ft Ultra slim HDMI cable with RedMere Technology. My TV is a 62" Toshiba DLP purchased in 2005, the lamp is not even a year old. Since I have used this cable the picture quality has deteriorated, it is much darker even when the lamp is on high bright mode there is not much difference. I was wondering if I chose the right cable for its length, or is it the TV lamp that is getting weaker? My HT receiver is a Denon 4311CI


----------



## htwaits




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sailordotcom*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/300_50#post_24152624
> 
> 
> several months ago I moved my HT equipment to another location to accommodate my second sub (SVS PB12 Plus) that meant to purchase a new HDMI cable, so I purchased a Monoprice 30 Ft Ultra slim HDMI cable with RedMere Technology. My TV is a 62" Toshiba DLP purchased in 2005, the lamp is not even a year old. Since I have used this cable the picture quality has deteriorated, it is much darker even when the lamp is on high bright mode there is not much difference. I was wondering if I chose the right cable for its length, or is it the TV lamp that is getting weaker? My HT receiver is a Denon 4311CI


HDMI technology can be blamed for a lot of problems, but the one you describe isn't one of them. I think it's probably the lamp. At least what you describe is exactly what lamps do as they age.


----------



## Viipottaja




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Colm*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/300#post_24142142
> 
> 
> No, it doesn't mean that at all. 1080p24 3D from a BD player takes less bandwidth than 1080p60 2D.



Oh ok, great!







. So what content would a standard tech 35ft cable not work on then, exactly?


ps. the 35ft cable I got works fine with my receiver, projector and blu rays.


----------



## alk3997




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sailordotcom*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/300#post_24152624
> 
> 
> several months ago I moved my HT equipment to another location to accommodate my second sub (SVS PB12 Plus) that meant to purchase a new HDMI cable, so I purchased a Monoprice 30 Ft Ultra slim HDMI cable with RedMere Technology. My TV is a 62" Toshiba DLP purchased in 2005, the lamp is not even a year old. Since I have used this cable the picture quality has deteriorated, it is much darker even when the lamp is on high bright mode there is not much difference. I was wondering if I chose the right cable for its length, or is it the TV lamp that is getting weaker? My HT receiver is a Denon 4311CI



Remember, the HDMI cable just sends digital information (bits). Those 1s and 0s don't change over time but your bulb does. Some bulbs can go in as little as 6 months particularly after a move where humidity got in or there were some bumps. Check the TV section of the AVSForum for more help with bulbs.


On the HDMI side, I think our standard answer #1 may be of help to you,

There are only two types of HDMI cables. They are High Speed (also known as Category 2) cables and Standard Speed (also known as Category 1) cables. Each type has a few options. These two types of cables were defined by the HDMI Org to simplify cable selection for a consumer. Both types of cables have the same pinouts.


High Speed HDMI cables are capable of handling any HDMI signal currently used or planned. Standard Speed HDMI cables are guaranteed to be able to send 1080i and 720p images. Standard Speed cables may be able to handle high bandwidth signals such as 1080p/60, 1080p/24 2D or 1080p/24 3D, but it is not guaranteed. High Speed cables have passed tests to show that they can handle 1080p/60, 4K, etc.

http://www.hdmi.org/learningcenter/faq.aspx#49 


The cable does not "know" what it is sending. It is a dumb cable. If only takes bits from one end of the cable to the other. The only thing you have to make sure is that the cable has enough bandwidth to send the signals you want without bit errors. Bit errors will show up as obvious screen defects such as lines, sparkles or screens that change to a solid color or even no picture at all. Bit errors do not cause loss of resolution or loss of contrast, color or anything else that is usually considered "picture quality".


So, for 1080p/24 3D or 1080p/60 2D you would want a High Speed HDMI cable and try to use ones that either provide the certificate online or have great user reviews, such as Monoprice or Blue Jean Cables or some of the others you'll find in this forum's archives. One warning is that some companies claim to have high speed cables that are not. Make sure you check reviews or see their certification. Sometimes they certify a shorter cable for high speed and then claim that longer cables are also covered. The longer cables are not. The maximum length for a certified passive High Speed cable is just over 25 feet. Look at a Redmere technology active cable or converting to Cat 6 for longer runs requiring a high speed HDMI cable.


The HDMI Org has stated that passive High Speed HDMI cables will work with HDMI 2.0 equipment. Monoprice's website shows Redmere cables that are reportedly compatible with HDMI 2.0. However, there is no way for a consumer to test compatibility at this time since HDMI 2.0 devices are not yet available.


----------



## Otto Pylot

^^^^^ first Standard Answer #1 for the year. Yes, I am keeping count


----------



## alk3997

Excellent! Hope you noticed the new paragraph (at the end).


----------



## Otto Pylot

Damn! I missed that. So this should be Standard Answer #1.1 then? Blue on black is hard for me to read


----------



## Phil17108




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sailordotcom*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/300#post_24152624
> 
> 
> several months ago I moved my HT equipment to another location to accommodate my second sub (SVS PB12 Plus) that meant to purchase a new HDMI cable, so I purchased a Monoprice 30 Ft Ultra slim HDMI cable with RedMere Technology. My TV is a 62" Toshiba DLP purchased in 2005, the lamp is not even a year old. Since I have used this cable the picture quality has deteriorated, it is much darker even when the lamp is on high bright mode there is not much difference. I was wondering if I chose the right cable for its length, or is it the TV lamp that is getting weaker? My HT receiver is a Denon 4311CI



I had one of the 62inch toshiba, time for a new bulb


----------



## sailordotcom

those lamps sure don't last long, I had one which only lasted a couple of months, they say 10,000 hours, they must mean minutes lol, well I want to purchase a new TV this coming summer, probably will go with 4k technology. thanks for all your help and comments. cheers and Happy New Year.


----------



## alk3997

Why 4K? There is a good discussion in one of the TV forums about whether the improvements in 4K are actually visible to the average person.


----------



## sailordotcom

can you give me a link to the thread?


----------



## alk3997




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sailordotcom*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/300#post_24161665
> 
> 
> can you give me a link to the thread?



Not exactly OT but here it is:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1496104/consumer-reports-asks-and-answers-is-uhd-worth-buying-now


----------



## sailordotcom

thanks alk


----------



## jreedar

I have the RedMere 60 foot product ID 9173 , in October mine stopped working. I was running it through a Denon 3313 and then tested it with a direct connection from my cable box to my display and still nothing. It lasted about 14 months and Monoprice sent me a new one promptly and covered the shipping of the deflective one back. Just yesterday the replacement went out, so I'm going to send this one back for replacement but now that this is my second cable I'm wondering if anyone has found a better solution for a 60 foot HDMI cable? I'm concerned this is going to continue happening, I hope not and maybe I've just been unlucky but thought I'd ask.


My configuration is that I have a wiring closet with all my components and run my cables up through 2 inch PVC pipes to the attic and back down through PVC to my Panasonic 65VT50 in my living room, so there's no bends or tight corners causing any tension on the cable and once connected it's never touched. I also have all my componenrts(AVR, cable box, ect.) in the wiring closet on a UPS.


Thanks for any advice.


----------



## Otto Pylot

You have conduit installed so what about something like CAT-6 to HDBaseT?


----------



## jreedar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Otto Pylot*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/300#post_24196525
> 
> 
> You have conduit installed so what about something like CAT-6 to HDBaseT?



Thanks I hadn't researched those before but it sounds like reliable solution, which is just what I'm looking for.


I've found these Atlona brand receiver and transmitter:


transmitter:
http://www.firefold.com/mobile/at-hdtx 


receiver:
http://www.firefold.com/mobile/at-hdrx-hdbaset 


Is there a HDBaseT transmitter/receiver you have used or recommend?


----------



## Joe Fernand

Using CAT with an Extender pair is a better long term plan than any ‘active’ HDMI cable – if the Extender pair ever become ‘obsolete’ it will be simple enough to swap them out without having to pull in new cable.


Have a look at our HD70STPEX model – it is HDBaseT-lite with PoC, you only require a PSU at the Transmitter to simplify the install at the Display end of the cable run.

http://www.octavainc.com/HDMI_extender_HD70STPEX.html 


Joe


----------



## jreedar




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe Fernand*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/300#post_24198305
> 
> 
> Using CAT with an Extender pair is a better long term plan than any ‘active’ HDMI cable – if the Extender pair ever become ‘obsolete’ it will be simple enough to swap them out without having to pull in new cable.
> 
> 
> Have a look at our HD70STPEX model – it is HDBaseT-lite with PoC, you only require a PSU at the Transmitter to simplify the install at the Display end of the cable run.
> 
> http://www.octavainc.com/HDMI_extender_HD70STPEX.html
> 
> 
> Joe



Thanks for the info. Will this work well when the HDMI input is out of a AVR(Denon 3313), the example shown shows the HDMI input coming directly from the HD set top box, so just wanted to ask since my implementation will be from an AVR to the HDBaseT transmitter. If this is possible then this looks perfect for my situation.


Also can this unit be used to split the output to multiple outputs? I saw this product: http://www.octavainc.com/HDMI_extender_LAN_HDDSX.html#HDDSXspec but it didn't keep the same video resolution as the HD70STPEX model.


Thanks.


----------



## alk3997

It's the same signal and the extender has power provided to it. So, it will work just as well.


----------



## Joe Fernand

HDMI is so complex and you rely on some many variables in each piece of kit it would be impossible to say there will never be a system where you hit a problem – what I can say is we have many customers with AVR’s using the HD70STP-EX and our software team are pretty good at resolving connectivity issues when we do hit a snag.


The HD70STP-EX is a Point to Point extender – we have a Multi-Zone/Multi-Source Matrix version available and will likely release a Distribution Amp version at some stage.


The HDDSX is HD over LAN and better suited to Commercial applications as it employs motion jpeg compression.


Joe


----------



## TacoLoco


Hi Joe,

 

Apologies for hijacking this thread. The HD70STP-EX looks exactly what I am after for the same purpose.

Will it work with wall plates? i.e. direct shielded cat6 runs (20m) terminating onto wall plates, or does it HAVE to be direct cables to each unit.

Can it be paired with a splitter also?

 

Thanks


----------



## Joe Fernand

The Tech boys in Taiwan say 'always go direct' - the real world requires that our customers often run them via wall plates and include them in some fairly complex Switching and Distribution wiring plans.


Joe


----------



## cybernut2000

Has anyone tried connecting 2 ultra slim redmere cables with a coupler/adapter? i am getting one of their new 18gbps slim cables but it only goes to 15ft. i wa shopping to buy another smaller one and join the 2 using some sort of adpater/connector or whatever you call it.


Has anyone successfully puuled a perfect path 700 series cable through a 1 inch conduit?


----------



## Otto Pylot

I believe the sink end has to be connected to a power source (TV) so a "joiner" wouldn't work. What length do you need? If this is going to be in a conduit, why not use CAT-6?


----------



## cybernut2000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Otto Pylot*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/300#post_24645061
> 
> 
> I believe the sink end has to be connected to a power source (TV) so a "joiner" wouldn't work. What length do you need? If this is going to be in a conduit, why not use CAT-6?



I do have a conduit, but no extender supports hdmi 2.0 or [email protected] There are products in the works but won't be available until after CEDIA 2014, so spending money on them now is wasted. The HDMI cables are also getting a bump as you would need 18gbps rated cables to get [email protected]/fps. Current high speed 10.2gbps cables can handle [email protected] and some stretching it at [email protected] max. I called all these companies direct and verified all of this. So while they say HDMI 2.0 does not require new cables they mean as long as you don't need [email protected]/fps which is what u need for all the streaming 4k and there is talk/rumors of even broadcast choosing [email protected] but is not decided and will probably not materialize. These updated cables are just starting to hit the market but the connectors are kinda big to run through the conduit like the monster 1000 isf cable. The only 18gbps redmere ones i have seen are the monoprice ones that just posted ths month but max out at 15ft and are not in wall rated and they don't have the longer in wall rated ones yet but are coming. I did not want to spend money on running cables through the conduit if its going to be replaced at the end of the year as all of this costs. So i decided to run them out of wall for now until i have the newer product that support hdmi 2.0. I just need 1 more foot so i was wondering if could connect 2 of them together. The super thin redmere cables are the only way i will be able to run the cables out of wall without it being a major eyesore


----------



## Otto Pylot

I'm not sure if that's accurate. HDMI.org states that the current certified high speed HDMI cables will be fine for the new HDMI 2.0 protocol. Cable mfrs are going to take advantage of the not-quite-accurate information that is coming out about HDMI 2.0 and try to market HDMI 2.0 specific cables. Sort of like Monster justifying their high cost of cables by saying they are made better to give one a better audio/video experience.


----------



## AV_Integrated

If conduit isn't at least 1" in internal diameter, then the wrong conduit was run. HDMI specified a head size of 7/8".


The source, not the sink, provides power to the Redmere cables, and you may not couple them together.


Finally, as stated above, existing high-speed rated HDMI cables are compliant with HDMI 2.0 standards, so a good high speed cable will work just fine for you without doing anything else.


----------



## cybernut2000

Yes current HS 10.2gbs cables will support [email protected]/30hz but not 60. So long as you are watching movies or cable tv you are fine as long as it uses 24/30. Ask any of the 20 major HDMI manufacturers as i have specifically in the last 3 weeks about the 60hz and have them go on the record. They will not offically claim 60hz is supported. That is what all 20 of them said. The HDMI 2.0 spec as stated on hdmi.org has also bumped the speed to 18gbps why would they do this if 10.2 was enough? Imagine the backlash and barrier to 4K if they were to clearly state new cables would be necessary. As far as they are concerned 24/30 is enough for 4k BD and Cable/Sat TV that is if either of them decide to stick with 24/30 and not use 60hz. so the HDMI org is really stretching the truth when they say no new cables necessary. The only content using 60hz is online streaming companies like Netflix and Amazon. It makes sense considering that not only the video bandwidth is increasing but it also support 32 channels of audio and bunch of other things like ethernet, etc.


As for extenders there are none that support 4K/60hz , HDMI 2.0 and HDCP 2.2. There are only 3 companies that have a product that supports ARC- Vanco, Audio Control and Transformative Engineering (TE). Of which TE is the only one that uses true HDBaseT with a Valens chip in it. Audio Control, TE and Atlona have 4k/HDMI 2/HDCP 2.2 products in the works but won't see the light of day until CEDIA 2014. Most of these products are going to strongly recommend single to dual Cat 6 as the minimum with the exception of Crestron who seem to handle 4K with cat 5e but i have not dug into it to see if theirs supports [email protected]


----------



## Otto Pylot

10.2Gbps, as you know, is the maximum "certified" bandwidth for 1.4b up to 25' for a passive cable. The design of the current high speed cables is such that they can handle the 18Gbps bandwidth. "Certified" for that speed is something else and the lengths of cable reliability is yet to be determined. It could be more than 25' or maybe no more than 10'. If you have good quality certified high speed HDMI cables, I wouldn't worry about compatibility with HDMI 2.0 until the controversy of HDMI 2.0 devices currently being marketed is resolved and new devices start appearing with HDMI 2.0 chipsets (and the specs are listed). If you're installing cable now ,in a conduit for example, and want to future proof your installation, just use solid core CAT-6 or 6a. I think it's way too early to be stressing over HDMI 2.0 anyway.


----------



## AV_Integrated




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cybernut2000*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/300#post_24650033
> 
> 
> Yes current HS 10.2gbs cables will support [email protected]/30hz but not 60. So long as you are watching movies or cable tv you are fine as long as it uses 24/30. Ask any of the 20 major HDMI manufacturers as i have specifically in the last 3 weeks about the 60hz and have them go on the record. They will not offically claim 60hz is supported. That is what all 20 of them said. The HDMI 2.0 spec as stated on hdmi.org has also bumped the speed to 18gbps why would they do this if 10.2 was enough? Imagine the backlash and barrier to 4K if they were to clearly state new cables would be necessary. As far as they are concerned 24/30 is enough for 4k BD and Cable/Sat TV that is if either of them decide to stick with 24/30 and not use 60hz. so the HDMI org is really stretching the truth when they say no new cables necessary. The only content using 60hz is online streaming companies like Netflix and Amazon. It makes sense considering that not only the video bandwidth is increasing but it also support 32 channels of audio and bunch of other things like ethernet, etc.
> 
> 
> As for extenders there are none that support 4K/60hz , HDMI 2.0 and HDCP 2.2. There are only 3 companies that have a product that supports ARC- Vanco, Audio Control and Transformative Engineering (TE). Of which TE is the only one that uses true HDBaseT with a Valens chip in it. Audio Control, TE and Atlona have 4k/HDMI 2/HDCP 2.2 products in the works but won't see the light of day until CEDIA 2014. Most of these products are going to strongly recommend single to dual Cat 6 as the minimum with the exception of Crestron who seem to handle 4K with cat 5e but i have not dug into it to see if theirs supports [email protected]


HDMI.org has gone on the record to say that any currently installed High Speed Certified HDMI cable will be compliant with the new HDMI 2.0 standards.


Considering there are HDMI 1.1 cables which handle 1080p/60 and frame packed 1080p 3D just fine, I tend to agree with that concept and am just saying that you are overthinking it. A quality cable tends to be very robust in the level of data it can carry across it.


Since there are almost zero HDMI 2.0 products on the market right now, I wouldn't worry about it. Or, more accurately, you should make the same plans for HDMI 2.0 that you are making for HDMI 9.7. Put conduit in place, have retro access, and if that doesn't work, put in a few runs of some decent cat-6 cabling along with a quality HDMI cable today.


----------



## Spiderm0n

Do you guys think I am better (from a reliability and future proofing standpoint) using a passive 30' HDMI cable or a redmere 30' cable?

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024005&p_id=3963&seq=1&format=2 
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025506&p_id=9430&seq=1&format=2 


I plan on putting in a 2" conduit just in case as well....


Also, anyone know when the redmere 2.0 will be available in a 30' length?


----------



## AV_Integrated

I would recommend the 22AWG cable:
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024002&p_id=4033&seq=1&format=2 


That cable should really handle most of what you throw at it for years to come and doesn't have any electronics inside of it to fail.


The conduit is your really future-proof solution so you should be good to go.


----------



## Spiderm0n

Thanks. I might have one or two 90 degree turns in the conduit. Would 22 AMG cable work in this application?


----------



## Otto Pylot

You also might want to consider throwing in some CAT-6 or 6a cable in the conduit as well (or, at the very least, a pull-string for future cable pulls/repairs). 90-degree bends should be ok as long as the cable can make that turn easily.


----------



## AV_Integrated

Watch the turns. Any turns should be a wide sweeping turn - as wide as possible. I would strongly recommend resigard type flexible conduit, not PVC tubing.

http://www.amazon.com/Carlon-SCJ4X1C-50-GUARD-CONDUIT-2-Inch/dp/B0008KL8YY/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1398794511&sr=1-9&keywords=1.5+inch+conduit


----------



## Reefdvr27

He guys,


I am pulling my hair out here. I generally buy mono price cables all the time and I am trying to figure out what to buy for my in wall hdmi as I am going to run to the projector in my theater build


I want a cable that will be good for the future as I will not be able to change these cables once the walls are rocked. It is going to be very hard to install these cables in the framing and once it is rocked, I will have to tear out the sheetrock to change cables in the future.


I was looking at the mono price cables with redmere tecno? I have to run a length of about 20ft.


Any advise or suggestions will be appreciated.


----------



## htwaits




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Reefdvr27*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/300_50#post_24667413
> 
> 
> He guys,
> 
> 
> I am pulling my hair out here. I generally buy mono price cables all the time and I am trying to figure out what to buy for my in wall hdmi as I am going to run to the projector in my theater build
> 
> 
> I want a cable that will be good for the future as I will not be able to change these cables once the walls are rocked. It is going to be very hard to install these cables in the framing and once it is rocked, I will have to tear out the sheetrock to change cables in the future.
> 
> 
> I was looking at the mono price cables with redmere tecno? I have to run a length of about 20ft.
> 
> 
> Any advise or suggestions will be appreciated.


Why don't you install a 1" conduit in your wall?


----------



## Otto Pylot

^^^ agreed. And just run some CAT-6 cable. That's about all you can do as far as "future proofing". Redmere cables are good (I use them) but they do have a chipset in them and, as with all electronic components, they can fail. If you've installed them in a wall without conduit and you need to replace/repair, you're screwed. With a conduit (and hopefully a pull-string), that becomes a relatively easy project. I used CAT-6 in a conduit to extend my ethernet connection so I could hardwire by HTS and not be dependent upon WiFi. There's an extra cable in there as well as a pull-string. The Redmer's I use are behind the media console and can be easily replaced in need be.


----------



## euphoriapt

Hi, I bought a 30$ 50ft hdmi cable to connect my PS3 from my basement to my living room Denon AVR 391 and picture quality was really really .. really bad. So i returned the cable got my money back and nou i find out this cable with redmere I would like to know what do you guys think.


----------



## htwaits




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *euphoriapt*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/300_50#post_24680017
> 
> 
> Hi, I bought a 30$ 50ft hdmi cable to connect my PS3 from my basement to my living room Denon AVR 391 and picture quality was really really .. really bad. So i returned the cable got my money back and nou i find out this cable with redmere I would like to know what do you guys think.


Saying that the picture quality was "really really .. really bad" isn't enough in itself to know if you had a HDMI cable problem. If you were actually seeing HDMI cable problems then a Redmere cable from Monoprice could help, maybe even a lot.


Posting the gage of the cable you returned and a detailed description of what you were seeing as bad picture quality will probably get you better advice about what to do next.


----------



## euphoriapt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *htwaits*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/330#post_24680186
> 
> 
> Saying that the picture quality was "really really .. really bad" isn't enough in itself to know if you had a HDMI cable problem. If you were actually seeing HDMI cable problems then a Redmere cable from Monoprice could help, maybe even a lot.
> 
> 
> Posting the gage of the cable you returned and a detailed description of what you were seeing as bad picture quality will probably get you better advice about what to do next.



This was the cable i bought http://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-High-Speed-Cable--wall/dp/B004GW25WY/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1399180345&sr=1-11&keywords=hdmi+bluerigger


----------



## htwaits




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *euphoriapt*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/300_50#post_24680253
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *htwaits*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/330#post_24680186
> 
> 
> 
> Posting the gage of the cable you returned and a detailed description of what you were seeing as bad picture quality will probably get you better advice about what to do next.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was the cable i bought http://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-High-Speed-Cable--wall/dp/B004GW25WY/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1399180345&sr=1-11&keywords=hdmi+bluerigger
Click to expand...

According to Amazon your cable was 50' and 26AWG which seems a little lite to me. There are others in this thread who know more about passive (the cable you returned) and active (Redmere) high speed HDMI cables.


Again, to tell if you need a different cable, anyone will need to know something more about your bad picture quality. Two of the symptoms of HDMI bandwidth problems would be image blocking, and sparkles over the whole image.


----------



## Joe Fernand

Amazon telling porky pies / there are no High Speed rated passive cables at 15m - like every other cable on the market it'll be High Speed up to 8m.


An Active cable may work for you - though with Active you have the potential for a compatibility mis match with your AVR - only way to know is to plug it in and try it.


If Active is a problem CAT6 and a set of powered extenders is the next option.


Joe


PS You may find a heavier gauge Passive cable from the likes of Blue Jeans will work for you - if you can deal with the much stiffer cable.


----------



## euphoriapt




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe Fernand*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/330#post_24680910
> 
> 
> Amazon telling porky pies / there are no High Speed rated passive cables at 15m - like every other cable on the market it'll be High Speed up to 8m.
> 
> 
> An Active cable may work for you - though with Active you have the potential for a compatibility mis match with your AVR - only way to know is to plug it in and try it.
> 
> 
> If Active is a problem CAT6 and a set of powered extenders is the next option.
> 
> 
> Joe
> 
> 
> PS You may find a heavier gauge Passive cable from the likes of Blue Jeans will work for you - if you can deal with the much stiffer cable.


Can you give me your opinon about a 50" cable ??


----------



## htwaits




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *euphoriapt*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/300_50#post_24682650
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joe Fernand*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/330#post_24680910
> 
> 
> Amazon telling porky pies / there are no High Speed rated passive cables at 15m - like every other cable on the market it'll be High Speed up to 8m.
> 
> 
> An Active cable may work for you - though with Active you have the potential for a compatibility mis match with your AVR - only way to know is to plug it in and try it.
> 
> 
> If Active is a problem CAT6 and a set of powered extenders is the next option.
> 
> 
> Joe
> 
> 
> PS You may find a heavier gauge Passive cable from the likes of Blue Jeans will work for you - if you can deal with the much stiffer cable.
> 
> 
> 
> Can you give me your opinon about a 50" cable ??
Click to expand...

I think Joe already did. Three choices, all yours.


----------



## euphoriapt

The picture i tooked didnt have zoom.


But this is what GTA looks like on the 50" hdmi cable.


----------



## htwaits

^^^^ euphoriapt ^^^^


I don't know how to use Ethernet CAT 6 cable to replace a HDMI connection.


50' active Redmere *HDMI high speed* cable:
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025506&p_id=9432&seq=1&format=2 

Active cable that may not be qualified for in wall installation in your area.



50' 22AWG CL2 *Standard HDM*I Cable
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10250&cs_id=1025002&p_id=6058&seq=1&format=2 

This is a very stiff cable that can cause problems turning corners and stressing connections.


As Joe wrote, you may just have to try one and see if it works. You can read about HDMI connection alternatives and buy cables here:

www.bluejeanscable.com 


How long?

http://www.bluejeanscable.com/articles/how-long-can-hdmi-run.htm?hdmiinfo


----------



## Colm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *htwaits*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/330#post_24683223
> 
> 
> ^^^^ euphoriapt ^^^^
> 
> 
> I don't know how to use Ethernet CAT 6 cable to replace a HDMI connection but this is the type of cable that you would use.
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10232&cs_id=1023202&p_id=2388&seq=1&format=2


You were right when you said you don't know. You should have stopped there. The cable linked to is a crossover cable. HDMI extenders use straight cables. It also appears that it is a stranded cable. Solid cables should be used wherever possible.


----------



## Reefdvr27




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Otto Pylot*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/330#post_24667638
> 
> 
> ^^^ agreed. And just run some CAT-6 cable. That's about all you can do as far as "future proofing". Redmere cables are good (I use them) but they do have a chipset in them and, as with all electronic components, they can fail. If you've installed them in a wall without conduit and you need to replace/repair, you're screwed. With a conduit (and hopefully a pull-string), that becomes a relatively easy project. I used CAT-6 in a conduit to extend my ethernet connection so I could hardwire by HTS and not be dependent upon WiFi. There's an extra cable in there as well as a pull-string. The Redmer's I use are behind the media console and can be easily replaced in need be.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *htwaits*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/330#post_24667463
> 
> 
> Why don't you install a 1" conduit in your wall?


Thanks guys. I gotta see if I can fit a conduit because I have to go through a very large header. I may be able to notch the header and get the wire through. Do you think I should run 2 Hdmi cables to the projector?


----------



## htwaits




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Colm*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/300_50#post_24683757
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *htwaits*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/330#post_24683223
> 
> 
> ^^^^ euphoriapt ^^^^
> 
> 
> I don't know how to use Ethernet CAT 6 cable to replace a HDMI connection but this is the type of cable that you would use.
> 
> 
> 
> You were right when you said you don't know. *You should have stopped there.* The cable linked to is a crossover cable. HDMI extenders use straight cables. It also appears that it is a stranded cable. Solid cables should be used wherever possible.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up. I've fixed my post so it "stops there".










Maybe you can help euphoriapt if he elects a CAT6 solution.


----------



## Reefdvr27




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AV_Integrated*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/330#post_24651502
> 
> 
> HDMI.org has gone on the record to say that any currently installed High Speed Certified HDMI cable will be compliant with the new HDMI 2.0 standards.
> 
> 
> Considering there are HDMI 1.1 cables which handle 1080p/60 and frame packed 1080p 3D just fine, I tend to agree with that concept and am just saying that you are overthinking it. A quality cable tends to be very robust in the level of data it can carry across it.
> 
> 
> Since there are almost zero HDMI 2.0 products on the market right now, I wouldn't worry about it. Or, more accurately, you should make the same plans for HDMI 2.0 that you are making for HDMI 9.7. Put conduit in place, have retro access, and if that doesn't work, put in a few runs of some decent cat-6 cabling along with a quality HDMI cable today.


Actually there is a 2.0 cable. I found a 25 footer on Amazon, but it was going to take 17 to 28 days to get it. I assume it is coming from overseas cause it was in stock, so I am just going to get the 22AWG From Monoprice and save 20 bucks.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2PZ1F36219&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-_-pla-_-HDMI+Cables-_-9SIA2PZ1F36219&ef_id=U2FcngAAAe8Ug7Pa:20140506190432:s


----------



## AV_Integrated




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Reefdvr27*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/330#post_24689233
> 
> 
> Actually there is a 2.0 cable. I found a 25 footer on Amazon, but it was going to take 17 to 28 days to get it. I assume it is coming from overseas cause it was in stock, so I am just going to get the 22AWG From Monoprice and save 20 bucks.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2PZ1F36219&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-_-pla-_-HDMI+Cables-_-9SIA2PZ1F36219&ef_id=U2FcngAAAe8Ug7Pa:20140506190432:s


This is why alk3997 needs to keep posting so he can put this up once a week:


> Quote:
> There are only two types of HDMI cables. They are High Speed (also known as Category 2) cables and Standard Speed (also known as Category 1) cables. Each type has a few options. These two types of cables were defined by the HDMI Org to simplify cable selection for a consumer. Both types of cables have the same pinouts.
> 
> 
> High Speed HDMI cables are capable of handling any HDMI signal currently used or planned. Standard Speed HDMI cables are guaranteed to be able to send 1080i and 720p images. Standard Speed cables may be able to handle high bandwidth signals such as 1080p/60, 1080p/24 2D or 1080p/24 3D, but it is not guaranteed. High Speed cables have passed tests to show that they can handle 1080p/60, 4K, etc.
> 
> http://www.hdmi.org/learningcenter/faq.aspx#49
> 
> 
> The cable does not "know" what it is sending. It is a dumb cable. If only takes bits from one end of the cable to the other. The only thing you have to make sure is that the cable has enough bandwidth to send the signals you want without bit errors. Bit errors will show up as obvious screen defects such as lines, sparkles or screens that change to a solid color or even no picture at all. Bit errors do not cause loss of resolution or loss of contrast, color or anything else that is usually considered "picture quality".
> 
> 
> So, for 1080p/24 3D or 1080p/60 2D you would want a High Speed HDMI cable and try to use ones that either provide the certificate online or have great user reviews, such as Monoprice or Blue Jean Cables or some of the others you'll find in this forum's archives. One warning is that some companies claim to have high speed cables that are not. Make sure you check reviews or see their certification. Sometimes they certify a shorter cable for high speed and then claim that longer cables are also covered. The longer cables are not. The maximum length for a certified passive High Speed cable is just over 25 feet. Look at a Redmere technology active cable or converting to Cat 6 for longer runs requiring a high speed HDMI cable.
> 
> 
> The HDMI Org has stated that passive High Speed HDMI cables will work with HDMI 2.0 equipment. Monoprice's website shows Redmere cables that are reportedly compatible with HDMI 2.0. However, there is no way for a consumer to test compatibility at this time since HDMI 2.0 devices are not yet available.



What this means is that there certainly are HDMI 2.0 cables - Millions of them out there. They are called 'High Speed' HDMI cables and have been around for years. Whether or not these certified HDMI High Speed HDMI cables will truly work with 4K at 18Gbs is yet to be known, but when HDMI 2.0 specifications were announced, that was part of what was said. No new cabling is required for HDMI 2.0. All existing 'High Speed' HDMI cabling will work.


----------



## obonillaf

Quick novice question: I have read that from time to time a few of this RedMere cables went wrong/defective. I understand that if you connect it in the wrong way just no image will display. My question is: Given that you actually connect it right and obtain the correct image if at any time the cable is to fail (because of the electronics/chip contained in it) do you just stop seeing the image or the defect would be more subtle e.g. you were having a 1080p signal and then said signal went down to 720p... If suddenly I won't get any image that's no problem because obviously the defect would be easily seen and its just a matter of changing the cable. What would be awful is a subtle change because then I would become "paranoid" thinking that I am not receiving the correct image etc etc. Anyway of knowing if the image I am getting is the best?


P.S. Do you recommend this cable for 25 feet to be use to connect a projector to a BD player? I much rather have a thin cable like the Redmere than a thick 22 AWG cable from Blue Jeans if possible...


----------



## AV_Integrated




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obonillaf*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/330#post_24762957
> 
> 
> Quick novice question: I have read that from time to time a few of this RedMere cables went wrong/defective. I understand that if you connect it in the wrong way just no image will display. My question is: Given that you actually connect it right and obtain the correct image if at any time the cable is to fail (because of the electronics/chip contained in it) do you just stop seeing the image or the defect would be more subtle e.g. you were having a 1080p signal and then said signal went down to 720p... If suddenly I won't get any image that's no problem because obviously the defect would be easily seen and its just a matter of changing the cable. What would be awful is a subtle change because then I would become "paranoid" thinking that I am not receiving the correct image etc etc. Anyway of knowing if the image I am getting is the best?


Most reports I've read are that the chip set fails and the image goes out completely. I have not read of any other issues similar to what you are describing, but it is certainly possible. There is no guarantee that on the copper cable you won't pick up some interference that will introduce sparklies, or other potential HDMI related issues. The image will NOT drop to a specific resolution. Your system will try to push 1080p if that's what the player is set to, so a failure of any cable along the way is not going to impact that.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obonillaf*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/330#post_24762957
> 
> 
> P.S. Do you recommend this cable for 25 feet to be use to connect a projector to a BD player? I much rather have a thin cable like the Redmere than a thick 22 AWG cable from Blue Jeans if possible...


As long as the Redmere cable isn't being run behind an inaccessible wall, then absolutely, go ahead and use it. But, if you are going to put drywall up over the cable and won't be able to replace it, then be aware that it's active, and could fail, make sure to run multiple cat-6 runs as well as the cable, and if you can, install 1.25" flexible conduit. Don't ever put Redmere, by itself, behind a wall that has no access after the installation.


But, with access, the cables are a great option.


----------



## obonillaf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AV_Integrated*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/330#post_24763672
> 
> 
> Most reports I've read are that the chip set fails and the image goes out completely. I have not read of any other issues similar to what you are describing, but it is certainly possible. There is no guarantee that on the copper cable you won't pick up some interference that will introduce sparklies, or other potential HDMI related issues. The image will NOT drop to a specific resolution. Your system will try to push 1080p if that's what the player is set to, so a failure of any cable along the way is not going to impact that.
> 
> As long as the Redmere cable isn't being run behind an inaccessible wall, then absolutely, go ahead and use it. But, if you are going to put drywall up over the cable and won't be able to replace it, then be aware that it's active, and could fail, make sure to run multiple cat-6 runs as well as the cable, and if you can, install 1.25" flexible conduit. Don't ever put Redmere, by itself, behind a wall that has no access after the installation.
> 
> 
> But, with access, the cables are a great option.



Wow! What an informative and precise answer. I have learnt more today by reading your post that by reading several pages of "information" about it.


It's very good to know that if ever the cable went wrong that it's not an issue of dropped down resolution what one would experiment but rather the appearance of artifacts likes "sparklies" and such.


Yes, I'm going to buy the cable as you suggested because I will be hiding it with a floor concealer that should be the case I could easily remove.


QUESTION: If I hide the cable with a floor concealer could I hide the concealer under my carpet. I guess since the cable will be covered by the concealer no harm could be made to the cable because if someone were to walk over the concealer under the carpet the concealer will take the "damage", right?


Thank you again.


----------



## Otto Pylot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Reefdvr27*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/340_20#post_24689233
> 
> 
> Actually there is a 2.0 cable. I found a 25 footer on Amazon, but it was going to take 17 to 28 days to get it. I assume it is coming from overseas cause it was in stock, so I am just going to get the 22AWG From Monoprice and save 20 bucks.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2PZ1F36219&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-_-pla-_-HDMI+Cables-_-9SIA2PZ1F36219&ef_id=U2FcngAAAe8Ug7Pa:20140506190432:s



I wouldn't believe it. That's just marketing b.s. taking advantage of the HDMI 2.0 craze, especially if it's coming for overseas.


----------



## Otto Pylot




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obonillaf*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/340_20#post_24764149
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I'm going to buy the cable as you suggested because I will be hiding it with a floor concealer that should be the case I could easily remove.
> 
> 
> QUESTION: If I hide the cable with a floor concealer could I hide the concealer under my carpet. I guess since the cable will be covered by the concealer no harm could be made to the cable because if someone were to walk over the concealer under the carpet the concealer will take the "damage", right?
> 
> 
> Thank you again.



I would think if the floor concealer is made of a material that won't crack or become "less stiff" over time then that would be fine. I would certainly place it underneath the carpet in the least traveled area and an area which is not likely to have furniture moved over it. The Redmere cables are thin and a little more "delicate" than other cables of a larger gauge wire. What about running a CAT-6 cable under the floor concealer? They can probably take a little more pressure than a Redmere cable.


----------



## obonillaf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Otto Pylot*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/330#post_24764350
> 
> 
> I would think if the floor concealer is made of a material that won't crack or become "less stiff" over time then that would be fine. I would certainly place it underneath the carpet in the least traveled area and an area which is not likely to have furniture moved over it. The Redmere cables are thin and a little more "delicate" than other cables of a larger gauge wire. What about running a CAT-6 cable under the floor concealer? They can probably take a little more pressure than a Redmere cable.



Thank you for your advise. I think this might be the concealer that will work for me: Legrand C210 Cord Mate II Kit http://www.amazon.com/Legrand-C210-Cord-Mate-Kit/dp/B00004W3ZQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1401248818&sr=1-1&keywords=concealer+kit Do you agree? Any specific floor concealer you suggest to hide and protect the 28 awg Redmere hdmi cable I will use?


----------



## obonillaf

I need to buy a 30" Monoprice Redmere HDMI cable. I just can't see what's the difference between these two Monoprice options:


i. 9170 : http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025507&p_id=9170&seq=1&format=2 


ii. 9430 : http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025506&p_id=9430&seq=1&format=2 


Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## htwaits




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obonillaf*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/350_50#post_24766576
> 
> 
> I need to buy a 30" Monoprice Redmere HDMI cable. I just can't see what's the difference between these two Monoprice options:
> 
> 
> i. 9170 : http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025507&p_id=9170&seq=1&format=2
> 
> 
> ii. 9430 : http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025506&p_id=9430&seq=1&format=2
> 
> 
> Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


It sounds like the first cable (9170) is thinner than the second cable. I would ask Monoprice support.


----------



## obonillaf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *obonillaf*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/330#post_24766576
> 
> 
> I need to buy a 30" Monoprice Redmere HDMI cable. I just can't see what's the difference between these two Monoprice options:
> 
> 
> i. 9170 : http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025507&p_id=9170&seq=1&format=2
> 
> 
> ii. 9430 : http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025506&p_id=9430&seq=1&format=2
> 
> 
> Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!



Any clue about the difference? They even have the same AGW number (28). Could it be that the only difference is the design/color?


----------



## neocataboi

They are exactly the same cable. the only difference will be the form factor and the color. Either will work great.


----------



## obonillaf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *neocataboi*  /t/1417609/monoprice-redmere-hdmi-cables/360#post_24767988
> 
> 
> They are exactly the same cable. the only difference will be the form factor and the color. Either will work great.



Thanks! Ordering right now!


----------



## tboe77

Not long ago, I switched to the Monoprice super slim HDMI cables with redmere. All 6' lengths. I was not having any issues with my original cables. I simply switched in order to minimize the stress placed on the ports by stiffer, heaver cables.

Even more recently, I came across this thread, over at Audioholics:

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/general-av-discussions/89140-peculiar-new-issue-maybe-hdmi-related-2.html#post1013847

I'm not having any issues with the redmere cables in my system, but now I'm worried that the power draw of the redmere cables may cause damage to my electronics with long-term use. 

Does anyone here know if there is merit to this concern?

Thanks much for any help!


----------



## Otto Pylot

I don't think long term detrimental effects have been proven. That's the first time I've read of a situation where the actual cable affected the HDMI port. I'd be more apt to think that the HDMI port itself was just on the absolute minimum of current design but it's hard to tell. It is interesting. I use Redmere for the flexibility and they've been fine.


----------



## Roberyu

Haha, I'm even using these Redmere cables in-line with HDMI devices that have their own significant draw (Gefen HDMI detective, and both cables to and from it are Redmere), and am experiencing no issues after weeks of use. I'll let you guys know if I have any HDMI port failures from this. 

I've also have these being used on a 4x4 HDMI matrix (Shinybow), and a Denon receiver (to all source inputs, and out multiple outputs). On the matrix, I have some HTPCs going to Gefen HDMI-Detective, then to the HDMI matrix, then to the receiver, then to the TV (other matrix outputs are going from the HDMI output to a Cat-6 extender (using a Redmere cable too). Were talking entire signal chain incorporating Gefen HDMI detectives, a matrix, a receiver, then TV (and other sources using Cat6) all using Redmere where an HDMI cable would be used. I guess I'm just a "running with scissors kind of guy, haha. I should be at least a canary in the coal mine in regards to this potential issue.


----------



## tboe77

Thanks for the responses guys! If anyone else has any input, I'd love to hear it. 

Maybe I'm worrying over nothing. However, since I switched to the redmere cables just for the form factor (slim, flexible cable) I decided to see if I could find some super-slim passive cables. I know that Parts Express has them, but the shipping to Canada was expensive. I found some very inexpensive cables from a Canadian vendor that look to be very similar to the ones from PE. I'm going to try them out, just to put my mind at ease. I hate the idea that I might be shortening the lifespan of my TV or receiver by using active cables when passive ones would work just as well.


----------



## Otto Pylot

Passive small gauge cables should work provided your runs aren't too long. Just make sure they are certified for the length that you need.


----------



## tboe77

No, I don't have any long runs. All my cables are 6', and that gives me plenty to work with.


----------



## tractng

obonillaf said:


> I need to buy a 30" Monoprice Redmere HDMI cable. I just can't see what's the difference between these two Monoprice options:
> 
> i. 9170 : http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025507&p_id=9170&seq=1&format=2
> 
> ii. 9430 : http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025506&p_id=9430&seq=1&format=2
> 
> Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!



I need to order one of these for a setup in my new home. I assumed it would work with a 1080P projector going to an AVR?

Will be buying the latest AVR very soon.
Thanks,
TT


----------



## htwaits

tractng said:


> I need to order one of these for a setup in my new home. I assumed it would work with a 1080P projector going to an AVR?
> 
> _I need to buy a 30" Monoprice Redmere HDMI cable. _
> 
> Will be buying the latest AVR very soon.
> Thanks,
> TT


Do you mean 30 feet?


----------



## tractng

htwaits said:


> Do you mean 30 feet?



Yes.


----------



## Otto Pylot

The Redmere cables should work fine at 30' for a projector -> receiver setup. Just curious, at 30', how are you going to install the cable(s)?


----------



## tractng

Otto Pylot said:


> The Redmere cables should work fine at 30' for a projector -> receiver setup. Just curious, at 30', how are you going to install the cable(s)?



It is going through a hole on the ceiling and run in the attic. Then it will go down into a closet where I will have a cutout area and built a custom rack there. Similar to what I did in the old house. Too much work but hopefully it will turn out fine. I toss the old 25' hdmi cable away thinking it might not be to spec for the new AVR. Old hdmi was about 6 years ago.

Hopefully this cable is good for years. I might just run conduit to avoid the headache. What are the common size of the conduit?


----------



## Otto Pylot

As a thought you might consider using conduit if you have access to the wall in the closet. You also might want to consider CAT-6/HDBT. That's a bit more expensive but it is easier to repair/replace if you have to and a good CAT-6 cable (or 2) sort of "future proofs" your connection for quite a while. Current, certified high speed HDMI cables can easily handle the new HDMI 2.0 spec (as can CAT-6) but CAT-6 will probably give you a little more "expandability" as specs change over time. Do keep in mind that Redmere cables have a little chipset in the sink end so they can draw some power, and as all electronic devices, can fail over time.

You don't have to run conduit in the attic space (I didn't), only down the walls.


----------



## obonillaf

tractng said:


> I need to order one of these for a setup in my new home. I assumed it would work with a 1080P projector going to an AVR?
> 
> Will be buying the latest AVR very soon.
> Thanks,
> TT


Yes, I am using these cable to connect my Epson 5030 projector (1080p) to my Denon AVR X-2000 with no problem. Everything flawless.


----------



## tractng

Otto Pylot said:


> As a thought you might consider using conduit if you have access to the wall in the closet. You also might want to consider CAT-6/HDBT. That's a bit more expensive but it is easier to repair/replace if you have to and a good CAT-6 cable (or 2) sort of "future proofs" your connection for quite a while. Current, certified high speed HDMI cables can easily handle the new HDMI 2.0 spec (as can CAT-6) but CAT-6 will probably give you a little more "expandability" as specs change over time. Do keep in mind that Redmere cables have a little chipset in the sink end so they can draw some power, and as all electronic devices, can fail over time.
> 
> You don't have to run conduit in the attic space (I didn't), only down the walls.


Thanks for the info.


----------



## bodean

tboe77 said:


> Not long ago, I switched to the Monoprice super slim HDMI cables with redmere. All 6' lengths. I was not having any issues with my original cables. I simply switched in order to minimize the stress placed on the ports by stiffer, heaver cables.
> 
> Even more recently, I came across this thread, over at Audioholics:
> 
> http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/general-av-discussions/89140-peculiar-new-issue-maybe-hdmi-related-2.html#post1013847
> 
> I'm not having any issues with the redmere cables in my system, but now I'm worried that the power draw of the redmere cables may cause damage to my electronics with long-term use.
> 
> Does anyone here know if there is merit to this concern?
> 
> Thanks much for any help!


Are they Redmere cables? I heard from numerous people via posts that buying a small size (6') of these cables is not recommended, and to only by long sizes. Any truth to this? I am in search for 4 6' hdmi cables to replace what I have, and want the thin


----------



## Otto Pylot

The advantage of Redmere cables is that they are active so you can have runs longer than 25', which is the current limit for certification of passive cables, and still maintain HDMI 1.4 (or 2.0) standards.

Under the 25' limit does not mean that you can't use the cables it's just that it's a bit of an overkill for the cost. If you want thin, flexible cables for under 6', they will work just fine. However, you could probably get by with a thinner gauge certified high speed HDMI cable and be ok. I use Redmere at 10' and 6' and they are just fine.


----------



## Plasma5300

Im using a sony slim high speed hdmi cable. It is really thin. About as thin as a micro usb charging cable. I dont think it has a chip to draw power. How is that possible that it works being so thin???


----------



## AV_Integrated

Plasma5300 said:


> Im using a sony slim high speed hdmi cable. It is really thin. About as thin as a micro usb charging cable. I dont think it has a chip to draw power. How is that possible that it works being so thin???


It's not possible. You are imagining things. If you still aren't sure though, you should start a separate thread about it.


----------



## Plasma5300

AV_Integrated said:


> It's not possible. You are imagining things. If you still aren't sure though, you should start a separate thread about it.


Whats not possible?


----------



## htwaits

Plasma5300 said:


> Im using a sony slim high speed hdmi cable. It is really thin. About as thin as a micro usb charging cable. I dont think it has a chip to draw power. How is that possible that it works being so thin???


All my short HDMI cables (1.5' - 3.0') are 36 AWG thin passive cables. Passive cables are off topic in a Redmere thread, but you should know that the chip in an active Redmere cable has nothing to do with drawing power. The chip applies amplification to the signal to compensated for the amount of signal lost over the exact length of the cable in use. Passive cables are corrected for the signal lost over a 6' cable.

A 15' passive cable will get less correction than it needs, and a 3' passive cable will get more correction than it needs. Either one may work but the margin for error has been reduced significantly.


----------



## steves40th

I am using a Redmere HDMI 15 foot cable. On one older LG tv, it cuts in and out. On my 2010 46' Samsung LCD tv I get an red line that flashes occasionally across the TV. Monoprice replaced the cable. Works a little better. 
I am feeding the TV's with a Sager NP5160, W7 64 bit 8gb ram and a 540m nvidia laptop video card. 
ANy suggestions for a good 20 foot cable that is thin and light like this. Drivers for the Redmere?


----------



## Otto Pylot

There are no drivers for a Redmere cable. It's just a dumb pipe that sends what ever data it receives, and just happens to have a little bit of electronics in one end to make it active so that you can send that data over longer lengths and with a smaller gauge wire. You can try a smaller gauge passive cable but other than that, it's probably a source issue.


----------



## htwaits

steves40th said:


> I am using a Redmere HDMI 15 foot cable. On one older LG tv, it cuts in and out. On my 2010 46' Samsung LCD tv I get an red line that flashes occasionally across the TV. Monoprice replaced the cable. Works a little better.
> I am feeding the TV's with a Sager NP5160, W7 64 bit 8gb ram and a 540m nvidia laptop video card.
> ANy suggestions for a good 20 foot cable that is thin and light like this. Drivers for the Redmere?


Nothing that you've posted make it clear that you have a HDMI cable problem.


----------



## steves40th

htwaits said:


> Nothing that you've posted make it clear that you have a HDMI cable problem.


So cutting in and out on one tv is not an HDMI cable issue, and red flashes on another isnt a problem? A regular HDMI runs fine. Maybe I should have put that last sentence in there.


----------



## steves40th

Otto Pylot said:


> There are no drivers for a Redmere cable. It's just a dumb pipe that sends what ever data it receives, and just happens to have a little bit of electronics in one end to make it active so that you can send that data over longer lengths and with a smaller gauge wire. You can try a smaller gauge passive cable but other than that, it's probably a source issue.


Regular sized HDMI cable, from Wal Mart, and 20 foot thick hdmi cable from Monoprice, works fine. So source is not the issue, in my opinion.


----------



## htwaits

steves40th said:


> So cutting in and out on one tv is not an HDMI cable issue, and red flashes on another isnt a problem? A regular HDMI runs fine. Maybe I should have put that last sentence in there.


You made it sound like one 15' cable was being used for two displays. More information about that or any other details about your HDMI signal path from source to each of your displays would help. The red line flashing doesn't sound like a HDMI problem to me, but more information would be helpful.


----------



## steves40th

htwaits said:


> You made it sound like one 15' cable was being used for two displays. More information about that or any other details about your HDMI signal path from source to each of your displays would help. The red line flashing doesn't sound like a HDMI problem to me, but more information would be helpful.


I tested the 15' redmere on two different displays. Both reacted differently. My laptop runs regular sized cheap HDMI cables to both TV's fine. No issues with video quality. Both TV's were updated with software, to ensure they were up to date. Laptop is a Sager NP5160, very capable laptop for video, I used VLC as the media player.


----------



## htwaits

steves40th said:


> I tested the 15' redmere on two different displays. Both reacted differently. My laptop runs regular sized cheap HDMI cables to both TV's fine. No issues with video quality. Both TV's were updated with software, to ensure they were up to date. Laptop is a Sager NP5160, very capable laptop for video, I used VLC as the media player.


Since your setup consists of a lap top and which ever TV you connect using HDMI, is it possible to try the Redmere in another system that doesn't include a computer?

The cutting out problem could be excessive handshake requests caused by your computer, the cable, and or the TV. The red flashing is not something that I've run into in connection with HDMI problems. HDMI technology is a pain at the best of times. If one of your sets is much older than the other that might explain the difference in symptoms.


----------



## steves40th

htwaits said:


> Since your setup consists of a lap top and which ever TV you connect using HDMI, is it possible to try the Redmere in another system that doesn't include a computer?
> 
> The cutting out problem could be excessive handshake requests caused by your computer, the cable, and or the TV. The red flashing is not something that I've run into in connection with HDMI problems. HDMI technology is a pain at the best of times. If one of your sets is much older than the other that might explain the difference in symptoms.


I will try it with a Bluray player when I get home. I am on the road now. Good idea...


----------



## htwaits

steves40th said:


> I will try it with a Bluray player when I get home. I am on the road now. Good idea...


Also try different HDMI inputs on your TVs. Good luck.


----------



## rviele

*hdmi cables*



htwaits said:


> Also try different HDMI inputs on your TVs. Good luck.


comments would be helped on the audioquest "chocolate" hdmi cable as i'm thinking of getting one.
rviele


----------



## Otto Pylot

Audioquest chocolate cables are grossly overpriced, like Monster. $140 for a 6' cable! Seriously? If a cable is certified by an HDMI.org approved certification agency, then the cable will meet all current HDMI specs, 1.4/2.0. You can't get any better than that. The cable specs may be better in some instances but it's the HDMI specs that are important. Better cable specs doesn't mean you're going to get better audio/video performance if the cable is already certified to meet HDMI specs. Anybody can have a bad cable but a certified $20 cable can perform just as good as $140 cable.


----------



## htwaits

rviele said:


> comments would be helped on the audioquest "chocolate" hdmi cable as i'm thinking of getting one.
> rviele


If a HDMI cable works it makes no difference who sold it for how much money. I've never used anyones HDMI cables other than Monoprice for out extended family and friends. Just be sure it's "high speed."


----------



## rviele

*hdmi cables*



htwaits said:


> If a HDMI cable works it makes no difference who sold it for how much money. I've never used anyones HDMI cables other than Monoprice for out extended family and friends. Just be sure it's "high speed."


 do you happen to have the part number from monoprice so that i can make sure i get the right one
thanks
rviele


----------



## Otto Pylot

Just make sure it's a certified high speed HDMI cable certified for the length you need. That's all you need to know. Prices will vary on length and what "extra" stuff they put into the manufacturing (gold connectors, etc) but it's all fluff.


----------



## htwaits

Otto Pylot said:


> Just make sure it's a certified high speed HDMI cable certified for the length you need. That's all you need to know. Prices will vary on length and what "extra" stuff they put into the manufacturing (gold connectors, etc) but it's all fluff.


Right.


----------



## Joe Fernand

‘_Just make sure it's a certified high speed HDMI cable certified for the length you need.’__ – and be wary of folk who claim ‘up to 10m’ (and forget to add 'but not including 10m'!)._

_Joe_


----------



## tractng

Guys,

I bought a 30ft RedMere cable from Monoprice in Aug and finally have a chance to test it out. It doesn't display an image (black screen). Ist this a defective cable? I tried two different bluray players. I did check the source and display end correctly.

Cable I bought:

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025506&p_id=9430&seq=1&format=2


----------



## htwaits

tractng said:


> Guys,
> 
> I bought a 30ft RedMere cable from Monoprice in Aug and finally have a chance to test it out. It doesn't display an image (black screen). Ist this a defective cable? I tried two different bluray players. I did check the source and display end correctly.
> 
> Cable I bought:
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025506&p_id=9430&seq=1&format=2


Are you aware that RedMere cables are directional? You may have installed the cable backwards.


----------



## tractng

htwaits said:


> Are you aware that RedMere cables are directional? You may have installed the cable backwards.



I check the correct end. Display goes to TV and source goes to bluray player. Also tried reversing.


----------



## Otto Pylot

Have you selected the correct input? Can you try another cable just as a test in the same input to rule out the input/cable?


----------



## tractng

Otto Pylot said:


> Have you selected the correct input? Can you try another cable just as a test in the same input to rule out the input/cable?



I have checked with old cable and it worked fine and. Also, tried different HDMI ports. Good thing I have tested or it would been a nightmare running through the wall/ceiling for a projector setup. Is there an alternative cable that will work well for future 4k device without the chip?

I had a 30 ft hdmi cable from monoprice that I bought 6 years ago that worked well but ripped it out when we sold the house. I that time I figured its an old hdmi cable and its time to change . I got an RMA from monoprice but am not sure if I want RedMere now.


----------



## AV_Integrated

There is no perfect future-proof cable. The only future-proof solution is conduit.

Some very good solutions are cat-6 cable, or fiber. Both of which can have adapters put in place to transmit HDMI A/V over. Fiber is nearly limitless with how much resolution it can support.


----------



## Otto Pylot

If you're installing the cable in the wall/ceiling I strongly recommend that you use at least a 1" conduit. It makes repairing/replacing cable so much easier. You could install a second cable for future use/need or, at least, a pull string for future cabling. I'm surprised that the Redmere Cable didn't work. It's always possible to get a bad cable from anyone I suppose. HDMI specs will continue to change over time. The current HMDI specs (1.4/2.0) can easily be met with current high speed HDMI cables (there's no such thing as an HDMI 1.4 or 2.0 cable). If you want to "future proof" the best thing you can do now is install solid core CAT-6 cable for that length and use HDBT (HDBase-T) as connectors. Or, you could install a thicker gauge HDMI cable but then you have flexibility issues and strain on the connector ends. Just make sure that what ever you do you don't have any sharp bends in the cable as it transits the wall and attic space.


----------



## htwaits

tractng said:


> I got an RMA from monoprice but am not sure if I want RedMere now.


As others have pointed out there is no way to future protect HDMI cables, and any cable can arrive defective. The best you can do is selecting "high speed" and exchange the cable. 

You've already checked all your settings and used another cable, so it really does sound like a dead cable. It's always possible but not something that happens very often. I've personally had one 6' HDMI passive cable replaced by Monoprice in the ten years that I've ordered for our extended family. My personal 15' Redmere has been perfect. So was the 28 AWG cable that it replaced. 

Good luck.


----------



## fndecker

*Are there devices that are just not compatible?*

I bought a 10' Redmere cable from Monoprice. I was trying to use it with my Micca Speck Media Player. If I use a regular cable to my TV it works, when I try to use the Redmere, it doesn't. I have it plugged the right way and when I use a blu-ray player it works. I thought the power came from the sink. If that is the case, then the Sharp Aquos TV is the sink and the Speck is the source. What could cause this not to work?


----------



## htwaits

fndecker said:


> I bought a 10' Redmere cable from Monoprice. I was trying to use it with my Micca Speck Media Player. If I use a regular cable to my TV it works, when I try to use the Redmere, it doesn't. I have it plugged the right way and when I use a blu-ray player it works. I thought the power came from the sink. If that is the case, then the Sharp Aquos TV is the sink and the Speck is the source. What could cause this not to work?


I assume that you've already done this.

"NOTE From Amazon: If player has no video output, press the "HDMI" or "AV" button on the remote. "

If the Redmere HDMI cable works to connect a Blu-ray player to your TV, but it doesn't work when you connect the Micca Speck to your TV with the same Redmere HDMI cable, then I suspect the Micca Speck. As I understand it, all the Redmere chip is doing is amplifying the signal to compensate for signal loss due to the difference between a 6' cable and a 15' cable. 

I don't know sinks from tubs. 

You can probably get information from Monoprice or a thread dedicated to the Micca Speck if there is such a thing.


----------



## tractng

htwaits said:


> As others have pointed out there is no way to future protect HDMI cables, and any cable can arrive defective. The best you can do is selecting "high speed" and exchange the cable.
> 
> You've already checked all your settings and used another cable, so it really does sound like a dead cable. It's always possible but not something that happens very often. I've personally had one 6' HDMI passive cable replaced by Monoprice in the ten years that I've ordered for our extended family. My personal 15' Redmere has been perfect. So was the 28 AWG cable that it replaced.
> 
> Good luck.


I end up getting a non Redmere cable as replacement from monoprice


----------



## htwaits

tractng said:


> I end up getting a non Redmere cable as replacement from monoprice


With HDMI "what ever works" is the byword.


----------



## dannieboiz

I read over the threads and it seems some of you ran 50ft cables w/o a problem. Are you guys using any extender/booster in between? 

I need a to run a length of 30ft from my Onkyo Reciever to my receiver. Do I need to add any extender?


----------



## atlantabraves2000

dannieboiz said:


> I read over the threads and it seems some of you ran 50ft cables w/o a problem. Are you guys using any extender/booster in between?
> 
> I need a to run a length of 30ft from my Onkyo Reciever to my receiver. Do I need to add any extender?


I have a similar query. I need to run a 75ft cable in the wall

Can someone suggest if I get this one?

I am looking at a 9To5Cables cables from Amazon

Do I still need an extender?

thanks


----------



## Otto Pylot

75' is a long run even for a thick gauge cable. There is no one, single answer that is going to be correct for you. Lots of good suggestion have already been put forth.

1. Conduit for what ever you do. Period. Just make sure there aren't any sharp bends in what ever cable type you install.
2. Redmere technology (active). A bit expensive.
3. Thick gauge high speed hdmi (passive). Flexibility and bending at that length may be an issue not to mention the strain on the inputs due to cable size.
4. A single, solid core CAT-6 cable (or two for future/other uses) with an active extender (HDBase-T or similar).

Just remember that passive high speed hdmi cables are only certifiable (currently) up to 25'. They will work at longer lengths its just that all HDMI 1.4/2.0 protocols have been tested and certified for up to that length.


----------



## atlantabraves2000

Otto Pylot said:


> 75' is a long run even for a thick gauge cable. There is no one, single answer that is going to be correct for you. Lots of good suggestion have already been put forth.
> 
> 1. Conduit for what ever you do. Period. Just make sure there aren't any sharp bends in what ever cable type you install.
> 2. Redmere technology (active). A bit expensive.
> 3. Thick gauge high speed hdmi (passive). Flexibility and bending at that length may be an issue not to mention the strain on the inputs due to cable size.
> 4. A single, solid core CAT-6 cable (or two for future/other uses) with an active extender (HDBase-T or similar).
> 
> Just remember that passive high speed hdmi cables are only certifiable (currently) up to 25'. They will work at longer lengths its just that all HDMI 1.4/2.0 protocols have been tested and certified for up to that length.


Thanks for the detailed explanation. 

1) By Conduit you meant putting in a pipe? 
2) Unfortunately Monoprice does not sell Redmere with 75ft. I will search for more vendors
3) I know that might be an issue but unfortunately due to room size, this is to be done.
4) I was thinking of avoiding an extender till now but I think I have to go for one in this case


----------



## Otto Pylot

atlantabraves2000 said:


> Thanks for the detailed explanation.
> 
> 1) By Conduit you meant putting in a pipe?
> 2) Unfortunately Monoprice does not sell Redmere with 75ft. I will search for more vendors
> 3) I know that might be an issue but unfortunately due to room size, this is to be done.
> 4) I was thinking of avoiding an extender till now but I think I have to go for one in this case


1) Yes. Typically a 1" flex-tubing or something similar. If you ever have to repair/replace or update your cable, you'll thank me (us) repeatedly 
2) There may be a maximum length for Redmere. I've never researched above what I needed.
3) There are 45 degree/elbow adapters that work quite well so you could connect your cable to that (straight on, but facing downwards for example) and then connect the adapter to the HDMI input. You might even be able to secure the HDMI cable so that it couldn't move the adapter.
4) Active extenders do work but I'm not sure how that would work in-wall.

Joe is good at this stuff so hopefully he'll have some ideas.


----------



## atlantabraves2000

Otto Pylot said:


> 1) Yes. Typically a 1" flex-tubing or something similar. If you ever have to repair/replace or update your cable, you'll thank me (us) repeatedly
> 2) There may be a maximum length for Redmere. I've never researched above what I needed.
> 3) There are 45 degree/elbow adapters that work quite well so you could connect your cable to that (straight on, but facing downwards for example) and then connect the adapter to the HDMI input. You might even be able to secure the HDMI cable so that it couldn't move the adapter.
> 4) Active extenders do work but I'm not sure how that would work in-wall.
> 
> Joe is good at this stuff so hopefully he'll have some ideas.



Could you suggest your recommendations for the flex tubing and the elbow adapters

Thank you very much. 

How should I contact Joe about his views


----------



## Otto Pylot

Any flexible conduit tubing will work. I forget what we used because we had an electrician install the conduit while we were remodeling. You can Google for an idea of what is available. The same for the 90 degree or elbow HDMI adapters. Just Search Amazon or Monoprice.

Joe usually cruises this forum and replies quite often. He may show up.


----------



## atlantabraves2000

Otto Pylot said:


> Any flexible conduit tubing will work. I forget what we used because we had an electrician install the conduit while we were remodeling. You can Google for an idea of what is available. The same for the 90 degree or elbow HDMI adapters. Just Search Amazon or Monoprice.
> 
> Joe usually cruises this forum and replies quite often. He may show up.


Will this work if I join two HDMI Redmere cables?

HDMI Keystone Jacks on Monoprice. 


thanks


----------



## Otto Pylot

Probably not because at 75' you still may have signal issues due to length. Why don't you want to run conduit and do something simple like CAT-6 with some sort of active termination? If you're thinking about two lengths of Redmere that wouldn't work because the sink end of the Redmere cable (they are uni-directional) needs a small bit of power for the chipset in that end.


----------



## AV_Integrated

atlantabraves2000 said:


> 1) By Conduit you meant putting in a pipe?


Carlon Riser Gard conduit is available from a number of places online in 1" and 1.25" dimensions at 100' lengths. This is a flexible conduit, so it's not like PVC pipe, but more like a vacuum hose. A bit heavier, and rated for in-wall use. Good stuff.



atlantabraves2000 said:


> 2) Unfortunately Monoprice does not sell Redmere with 75ft. I will search for more vendors


I'm not aware of 75' Redmere cables, but no matter what, there is no promise of it working, and even less promise of long term use and reliability. Either install conduit, or put in two pieces of HDMI and 2 cat-5e or cat-6 cables. I personally ran conduit, and use the Monoprice 75' 22AWG HDMI cable between my basement and the bedroom, and I did have good results in doing so. YMMV. But, I ran cat-5e and I can add cat-6 if I want/need to. At the end of the day, you really want to focus on covering your butt, not on what is cheapest, or what gets you by today. Long term, reliability should be a goal.

Oh - and I run directly from my source to the TV. Long gentle turns on the HDMI cable behind the TV.



atlantabraves2000 said:


> 3) I know that might be an issue but unfortunately due to room size, this is to be done.


There is no issue with those distances. I've used fiber conversion units to thousands of feet with HDMI. There are solutions, but some of them cost more than others. At over $1,000 per end point, fiber is certainly not something that everyone is going to be doing. But, it's still an ideal solution for some.



atlantabraves2000 said:


> 4) I was thinking of avoiding an extender till now but I think I have to go for one in this case


I agree. A good HDBT solution is the way to go if you want to keep cabling to a minimum and can't run conduit. Always at least two cat-5e or cat-6 cables as a minimum. This way, if any cable fails, or new standard comes out that needs a bit more bandwidth, you have cabling in place that should protect you for years to come.


----------



## Otto Pylot

^^^^^ Excellent advice.


----------



## atlantabraves2000

Thank you very much for your advice. Actually I was able to use only 60" Redmere cable only since I now installed the projector on the roof. The conduit was not necessary since the wire is going along the unfinished part of the basement


thanks again for your help both of you


----------



## plouie10

Hi Guys,
Just found these cables and purchased some off Amazon. I originally had some no name ones and found that they didn't work, so I thought perhaps it was because they were no name brand cables. Anyways, I'm hooking devices up to an Anthem MRX-510. I know they are one directional. I have the following devices
AppleTV
Oppo BDP-93 Blu ray player
Arris Cable TV
WDTV Live player

I tried on AppleTV. Worked only the original time, but when I unplugged and plugged back into reroute the cable, would not work. Ended up plugging back in the old HDMI cable.
Tried on Oppo. Wouldn't work at all again.
Tried on WDTV Live, worked okay, but the odd second or so every now and then the picture would blank out but the sound kept playing. Went back to old HDMI cable.
Tried on Arris Cable box. No issues, works great.

Is it just that it works on some devices and not on others? I am only using 6ft. cables. I only wanted to used them to neaten up the look behind the console.
Thanks
Phil


----------



## Otto Pylot

I use 6' Redmere cables to connect the AppleTV2 and blu-ray player to the receiver and then to the tv. Works perfectly. They should work with any device as they are dumb cables with a little electronic chip at the sink end. Have you tried the one cable that works on the Arris cable box on your other devices and vice versa? That would rule out a physical cable issue.


----------



## plouie10

Unfortunately, no go. That doesn't work either. No big deal. Just wanted to make things neater. Oh well, back to the fat HDMI cables. At least they work fine.



Otto Pylot said:


> I use 6' Redmere cables to connect the AppleTV2 and blu-ray player to the receiver and then to the tv. Works perfectly. They should work with any device as they are dumb cables with a little electronic chip at the sink end. Have you tried the one cable that works on the Arris cable box on your other devices and vice versa? That would rule out a physical cable issue.


----------



## AV_Integrated

plouie10 said:


> Hi Guys,
> Just found these cables and purchased some off Amazon. I originally had some no name ones and found that they didn't work, so I thought perhaps it was because they were no name brand cables. Anyways, I'm hooking devices up to an Anthem MRX-510. I know they are one directional. I have the following devices
> AppleTV
> Oppo BDP-93 Blu ray player
> Arris Cable TV
> WDTV Live player
> 
> I tried on AppleTV. Worked only the original time, but when I unplugged and plugged back into reroute the cable, would not work. Ended up plugging back in the old HDMI cable.
> Tried on Oppo. Wouldn't work at all again.
> Tried on WDTV Live, worked okay, but the odd second or so every now and then the picture would blank out but the sound kept playing. Went back to old HDMI cable.
> Tried on Arris Cable box. No issues, works great.
> 
> Is it just that it works on some devices and not on others? I am only using 6ft. cables. I only wanted to used them to neaten up the look behind the console.
> Thanks
> Phil


Why not use slim passive HDMI cables instead of active ones? There is a chance that the voltage needed to drive the RedMere chips isn't strong enough.

I have tested about 60 of these cables at 1', 3', and 6' lengths without issue using 1080p/60 content on a Quantum tester ($10,000) and they have all worked well.
http://www.parts-express.com/search...1")]&Ntt=super*+slim*+hdmi*+cable*&PortalID=1

There are other brands out there as well.


----------



## plouie10

Awesome! Thanks! I'll have a look. Didn't know they existed.



AV_Integrated said:


> Why not use slim passive HDMI cables instead of active ones? There is a chance that the voltage needed to drive the RedMere chips isn't strong enough.
> 
> I have tested about 60 of these cables at 1', 3', and 6' lengths without issue using 1080p/60 content on a Quantum tester ($10,000) and they have all worked well.
> http://www.parts-express.com/search.aspx?N=4294967118+4294965128&Nrs=collection()/record[endeca%3Amatches%28.%2C%22P_PortalID%22%2C%221%22%29+and+endeca%3Amatches%28.%2C%22P_Searchable%22%2C%221%22%29]&Ntt=super*+slim*+hdmi*+cable*&PortalID=1
> 
> There are other brands out there as well.


----------



## Otto Pylot

AV_Integrated beat me to it but yeah, use the Slim HDMI cables. They should work fine for the lengths you are running if the Redmere's aren't working for you.


----------



## FL335i

I just installed a 50' monoprice redmere HDMI cable. Lots of issues. Worked great for about 10 minutes, then "format not supported" is flashing across my TV. I've plugged it into the PS3 directly, and into the Onkyo. Works better with the PS3, but still craps out. I tried manually setting the Onkyo to 720, 1080i, 1080p, 1080p/24. NOTHING WORKED. I just emailed their CS. What stinks is this cable is installed in the attic. Yes, I tried it before installing it. Worked. I wasn't going to sit there and watch a whole movie... I ran it for 3 minutes and then installed it. Cable is a POS. So either they tell me I'm a lucky winner that got one of their defective batches and swap it out with a good one, which I'll trial run for a whole day or 2 before I install in the attic... OR I go to a CAT6 setup. 




Cable I bought:
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025507&p_id=9172&seq=1&format=2


----------



## rkothapa

*Slim Series CL2 vs non CL2*

Thinking of buying a 40ft monoprice hdmi cable. Can anyone suggest if I should with 

40ft High Speed HDMI® Cable w/ RedMere® Technology - 9431

or 

40ft Slim Series CL2 High Speed HDMI® Cable w/ RedMere® Technology - 9171

Both are redmere. Except one is CL2 certified. Both have been in the market for the same time. The one that is not CL2 has more reviews and so I think is more popular. I see people have been using the non-CL2 hdmi cable for in wall use also. I will be routing the cable via conduit pipe from receiver to projector. I think the thickness of both cables is the same.


----------



## Otto Pylot

At that length you might want to consider CAT-6 -> HDBT. I only say that because the Redmere cables are active cables in that they have a chipset in the sink end. Like all electronic devices, the chipset can fail over time. Mine haven't, but they are short runs and are easily accessible behind the HTS. CAT-6 will probably never fail because it's just wire, only the outside termination is powered but that's outside the wall. It would be much easier to fix a termination end than to pull 40' of cable out and replace with same. Just a consideration. What ever you do though, I'd lay it out on the floor first and test before installing it. Just in case.


----------



## Joe Fernand

_'I will be routing the cable via conduit pipe from receiver to projector. I think the thickness of both cables is the same.'_ - it's not the cable diameter you have to worry about it's the HDMI Connectors and how you plan to 'pull' the cable without potentially separating the Connector from the cable stock!


CAT6 + HDBT Extenders every time 


http://www.octavainc.com/HDMI_extender_HD70STPEX.html


Joe


----------



## John Stockton

I did not read through all the pages so forgive me if this has been asked before. I want to know if Monoprice plans to have the Redmere 18 Gbps HDMI cable for lengths greater than the available 15 ft ??


The run from my source to the projector is around 25 ft and I was really hoping the 18 Gbps HDMI cable would be available for that.


----------



## Otto Pylot

Any reason why you don't want to go with solid core CAT-6 and then some kind of HDBT extender to terminate? And no, I don't know what Monoprice's plans are for extending the Redmere technology to longer than 15'. I thought there were Redmere cables at longer lengths, albeit a bit pricey.


----------



## mooseehead

What are the chances of a Redmere cable cale going bad after a few weeks?

Bought this http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025503&p_id=10507&seq=1&format=2 and everything was fine. Then one day I switched to my blue ray player and got no signal. Checked other sources and no signal on any of them. Replaced the cable with an older Monster HDMI that I had and everything works fine. Tried the monoprice Redmere cable again and no signal. Monoprice is RMA'ing the cable with no problem.

My setup: Motorola cable box,Sony blue ray player, ps3 connected to Yamaha v677 via HDMI. Vizio P Series tv connected to Yamaha via HDMI.

The Redmere cable was 10ft in length. It fortnuatly was not run through a wall but through console mounted cable run so removing was not a problem.

Did I just get a bad cable or should I stay away from Redmere?


----------



## Otto Pylot

Redmere's are active cables in that they have a small chipset in the sink end (tv) side that draws a little power so they are uni-directional. Like any other electronic device they can fail over time. It is possible that you got a bad cable. I've not had any issues at all with mine and I have three.


----------



## sb1920alk

Quick question on the redmere cables...

Do they work with HDMI wall plates like monoprice sells, or should I use a brush wall plate like this http://www.cableorganizer.com/vanco/brush-cable-wall-plates/ and no couplers? This would be for an in-wall installation.

Thanks


----------



## Otto Pylot

How long is your run? Installing HDMI cables in-wall is ok to do but if you don't use some sort of conduit it's going to be difficult to change the cables when the specs change (and they will ). Also, Redmere HDMI cables are active cables in that they need to draw a little bit of power from the sink end (the tv), which means that they can fail overtime like any electronic device.

I would use the brush wall plate because you would want the Redmere cable to connect directly to the tv and not through a coupler. Have you considered installing CAT-6 in a conduit and then using some sort of extender to terminate it? Installing CAT-6 will probably cover your connections needs a lot longer than an HDMI cable. They are also easier to pull.


----------



## sb1920alk

Otto Pylot said:


> How long is your run? Installing HDMI cables in-wall is ok to do but if you don't use some sort of conduit it's going to be difficult to change the cables when the specs change (and they will ). Also, Redmere HDMI cables are active cables in that they need to draw a little bit of power from the sink end (the tv), which means that they can fail overtime like any electronic device.
> 
> I would use the brush wall plate because you would want the Redmere cable to connect directly to the tv and not through a coupler. Have you considered installing CAT-6 in a conduit and then using some sort of extender to terminate it? Installing CAT-6 will probably cover your connections needs a lot longer than an HDMI cable. They are also easier to pull.


This is for a HT projector. I don't have exact measurements yet, but 35' would easily be enough. ...leaning towards a 40' cable just to make sure I'm not short. I have conduit where the receiver will go, and I can easily put some near the projector. Both would terminate in the attic, where I would leave the slack.


----------



## Otto Pylot

40' is pretty long. Do they make a 40' Redmere cable? I haven't looked so I don't know. Conduit in the walls, with a pull string, is what I have setup. The rest of the cable, which is CAT-6 by the way, is loose in the attic. I'm using solid core CAT-6 to extend my ethernet connection so my HTS is hardwired but there is an extra cable there, with the pull string, for future use to extend HDMI if I need to. Redmere cables are uni-directional so if you do go with Redmere, pay attention to the arrows. I would lay it out on the floor first and connect to make sure it works before installing it in the conduit.


----------



## dbphd

I'm using a short (about 5') Redmere cable from a DirecTV HD-DVR to a Cary Cinema 11a for audio. I assume the end labeled TV should go to the Cary; is that correct? I had occasional audio dropouts (no sound or distorted sound) when switching channels or restarting from pause, but I have the same problem using the Redmere. I assume it's the buggy digital section of the Cary, although it never happens with digital coax.

db


----------



## Otto Pylot

Yes, the end of the Redmere cable that is labeled tv is the sink end and where the chipset is to draw a little power. If you install the cable backwards you probably won't get a signal at all but you won't damage anything either.

So are you using the HDMI cable for audio only? If all you're trying to do is send compressed audio (5.1, not DTS-MA, Dolby TrueHD, etc) then the optical cable should work just fine. I'm a little confused as to your setup. HDMI, as you know, is audio and video. Optical is audio only, at least that's what I use it for. Redmere for audio only is a bit of an overkill because at 5', a thin gauge high speed hdmi cable would be just as good.


----------



## dbphd

HDMI-1 from the Oppo 105 goes directly to the projector; HDMI-2 goes to the Cary Cinema 11a; SP/DIF goes to the 11a as a backup audio source I rarely use. DTS-MA HD and Dolby True HD are important to me; I enjoy music on Blu-ray. I installed the Redmere cable thinking it might cure the occasional audio dropout problem, but it didn't. A sure fix for the dropout is to switch to SP/DIF then back to HDMI; a less sure fix is to select HDMI again. When the 11a came out, early complaints were that the digital section was buggy even though the sonics were fine. Early users of the 11a who tried to use its automated setup were disappointed by the inaccuracies of the calculations and harsh noise when switching form one digital source to another.

I sold a previous 11a, but bought another in order to play DSD surround from a Sony XA5400ES which is only available via HDMI, perhaps a fool's errand. The Cary does have a bit more flexibility as a processor than the Oppo 105, e.g., crossovers can be set for each speaker and bass management seems a bit superior to that of the Oppo. For stereo, neither the Cary nor subs are used.

db


----------



## Otto Pylot

Ok, it's a bit clearer now. I wasn't sure what the Cary was until I looked it up. Nice unit. The HDMI inputs are 1.3 which is a bit behind as far as HDMI technology goes. The current hardware specs are HDMI 1.4 with 2.0 starting to appear in one form or another. It shouldn't make a difference though. It does sound like there is something amiss with the Cary if you have to switch inputs back and forth to eliminate the dropouts.


----------



## dbphd

I think I'm coming to the conclusion that what I'm experiencing isn't audio drop out, just lag in HDMI linking. Audio returns after pausing or switching stations without any intervention, but it takes a few seconds. That delay was introduced with the Cary Cinema 11a in the setup. It's only a minor annoyance.

db


----------



## pixelation

I have a 15' (non-monoprice) Redmere cable that works fine. Now I see the monoprice is having a sale on the Redmere so I bought a 3'. 

Yes, 3'. I think worse case I use it as a backup. But what I was thinking was that what if I cut the 3' Redmere in half and then extend them. I can make arbitrary length Redmere cable.

I guess I can terminate them into 2x RJ-45. This is more of an experiment. Thoughts?


----------



## ScottJ

pixelation said:


> I have a 15' (non-monoprice) Redmere cable that works fine. Now I see the monoprice is having a sale on the Redmere so I bought a 3'.
> 
> Yes, 3'. I think worse case I use it as a backup. But what I was thinking was that what if I cut the 3' Redmere in half and then extend them. I can make arbitrary length Redmere cable.
> 
> I guess I can terminate them into 2x RJ-45. This is more of an experiment. Thoughts?


Not likely to work. The electronics in the Redmere cable are tuned to the specific cable length. Even if that wasn't the case, splicing HDMI will change the electrical characteristics of the cable enough that the signal likely won't pass through correctly any more.


----------



## Otto Pylot

pixelation said:


> I have a 15' (non-monoprice) Redmere cable that works fine. Now I see the monoprice is having a sale on the Redmere so I bought a 3'.
> 
> Yes, 3'. I think worse case I use it as a backup. But what I was thinking was that what if I cut the 3' Redmere in half and then extend them. I can make arbitrary length Redmere cable.
> 
> I guess I can terminate them into 2x RJ-45. This is more of an experiment. Thoughts?


As mentioned, that won't work. Re-wiring an HDMI cable is difficult enough but an HDMI cable with Redmere technology is virtually impossible. They are uni-directional cables. In other words, the sink end (tv side) has a chipset in it so that a little power can be drawn which allows the cables to be run at longer distance than the current 25' maximum for certified passive high speed HDMI cables and use a thinner gauge wire.


----------



## Joe Fernand

_'I guess I can terminate them into 2x RJ-45. This is more of an experiment. Thoughts?'_ - we all await the Outcome of the Experiment 


Joe


----------



## pixelation

ScottJ said:


> Not likely to work. The electronics in the Redmere cable are tuned to the specific cable length. Even if that wasn't the case, splicing HDMI will change the electrical characteristics of the cable enough that the signal likely won't pass through correctly any more.


I wasn't aware that the redmere chip is tuned to the specific cable length. If that is the case, my experiment of arbitrary length Redmere HDMI won't work.


----------



## MAYBEN

*HDMI 15' and 4'*

I'm redoing some re-wiring for my Dad. I originally bought him CL2 HDMI cables from Knukonceptz @ 8' each. 

We've changed the set-up and the 8' are too stiff and lengthy for connecting the STB and Blu-ray to the AVR, so I'll likely be using 4' cables so that I can still route them nicely. Regarding the cable from the AVR to the TV, we need a little more length, around 12'.

I've seen many threads recommending running HDBaseT and whatnot, but it doesn't seem necessary for the near future as we're just going from behind the TV, into the wall, down, then out to the AVR, decently 'short' run. Plus, he wouldn't need to buy the other equipment needed. Other recommendations I've seen include using the Monoprice Redmere and the Ultra Slim Non-active for the 4' cables.

What's the latest and greatest suggestions for what I'm trying to do?
2x 4'
1x 12'

Thanks!


----------



## Ratman

Monoprice should be able to provide an HDMI cable for your needs. At 4', 8', or 12'... I wouldn't be overly concerned.


----------



## MAYBEN

Ratman said:


> Monoprice should be able to provide an HDMI cable for your needs. At 4', 8', or 12'... I wouldn't be overly concerned.


I'm more concerned about which specific model to get for the 4' and 12'. The 12' needs to be in-wall rated (I believe) and the 4' does not.

Monoprice has wicked cheap cables and some that are twice as much.


----------



## AV_Integrated

MAYBEN said:


> 2x 4'


Two of these...
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024014&p_id=11560&seq=1&format=2




MAYBEN said:


> 1x 12'


One of these...
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025508&p_id=10767&seq=1&format=2

That last one is directional, so install it the proper direction.

No wall plates may be used. Directly from source to receiver, then from receiver to display.


----------



## MAYBEN

AV_Integrated said:


> Two of these...
> 
> One of these...
> 
> That last one is directional, so install it the proper direction.
> 
> No wall plates may be used. Directly from source to receiver, then from receiver to display.


Thanks! for the 12', it is running from the TV into the wall, then out to the receiver. Should this be in-wall rated?

(I can't post/quote links yet!)


----------



## AV_Integrated

If it's a short run in the wall, then ... well yes. But, that's rarely an issue over such a short distance in the wall, in the same cavity in the wall. It's not anything like a 100' run through a common open air handling space. That is, even though this isn't technically proper, it's also something tons of people do, and not a high voltage/electrical cable. There is some discussion through this thread about the legality of running Redmere cables through walls. I personally wouldn't sweat a 5' run through a wall.


----------



## Otto Pylot

+1


----------



## hdmi4ever

I'm considering buying a 60-foot Redmere cable to run from my AV receiver to a projector on the other side of the room. The straight-line distance between receiver and projector is under 20 feet, but I'll need at least a 60 foot cable because it will have to snake around the edges of the room.

My concern is that it that there are so many layers of indirection in my setup for the HDMI signal, and I wonder if the Redmere will have a problem with it.

I want to set it up like this:

[Blu-Ray]-->[AV receiver]---Redmere cable--->[4x1 HDMI switch]--->[HDMI 1x2 splitter]--> [projector]/[TV]

Currently I have the Blu-Ray player on the same side of the room with the projector and directly plugged into the 4x1 HDMI switch, and I use another device to transmit the audio wirelessly back to the receiver, but that prevents me from using the high-bitrate audio tracks on the Blu-Ray discs. The above setup would let me take advantage of the HD audio, but with the Redmere going from one switch (the receiver) into another switch rather than into a display, should I expect that to be a problem?


*EDIT:* I ended up ordering the cable anyway, but I'll delay running the raceway for it until I see that it works with my system. I'll come back here to report my experience with it.


----------



## rxcats

I am currently using Monoprice Ultra Slim Series High Performance HDMI® Cable w/ RedMere® Technology cables with my home theatre set up and they work fine. None of my cables are over 6 feet, but I wanted the flexibility of thin cables so I opted for these. I have a OPPO BDP-103D Universal 3D Blu-ray Player (Darbee Edition) on order that will arrive by mid-week and will be changing my set up. I will be routing everything (TiVo Roamio, Apple TV, Roku) through an HDMI switcher then to the new BDP to take advantage of the audio and video processing functions afforded by the BDP-103D. The BDP HDMI-out will then be routed to the HDMI-in on my Vizio S5451w-C2 5.1 Sound Bar and the HDMI-out from the sound bar routed to the HDMI-in on my Samsung HDTV. The thing I am concerned about is if the active RedMere cables will work with this set up or I need to change to passive cables. I noticed on the Monoprice website that there is a disclaimer saying that only one active cable can exist in a single cable run even if using a switch, splitter or matrix; do I need to get some passive cables?


----------



## Otto Pylot

To both of you, keep in mind that the Redmer's are active in that they draw a little power from the sink end (tv side). You may encounter issues running thru switches, etc because of that. Redmere cables can't, or shouldn't, be daisy-chained with another active or passive cable. I think Monoprice put up that disclaimer because they were getting too many returns for that very reason.

For runs that long, a lot of folks do in-wall installations using solid core CAT-6 and some sort of active termination like HDBT, but that can be a bit pricey. Even if you don't, or can't do an in-wall installation, CAT-6 is an alternative or a thicker gage HDMI cable with active extenders.


----------



## hdmi4ever

hdmi4ever said:


> I'm considering buying a 60-foot Redmere cable to run from my AV receiver to a projector on the other side of the room. The straight-line distance between receiver and projector is under 20 feet, but I'll need at least a 60 foot cable because it will have to snake around the edges of the room.
> 
> My concern is that it that there are so many layers of indirection in my setup for the HDMI signal, and I wonder if the Redmere will have a problem with it.
> 
> I want to set it up like this:
> 
> [Blu-Ray]-->[AV receiver]---Redmere cable--->[4x1 HDMI switch]--->[HDMI 1x2 splitter]--> [projector]/[TV]
> 
> Currently I have the Blu-Ray player on the same side of the room with the projector and directly plugged into the 4x1 HDMI switch, and I use another device to transmit the audio wirelessly back to the receiver, but that prevents me from using the high-bitrate audio tracks on the Blu-Ray discs. The above setup would let me take advantage of the HD audio, but with the Redmere going from one switch (the receiver) into another switch rather than into a display, should I expect that to be a problem?
> 
> 
> *EDIT:* I ended up ordering the cable anyway, but I'll delay running the raceway for it until I see that it works with my system. I'll come back here to report my experience with it.



The 60 foot Redmere cable worked well for the purpose of transmitting audio and video from the receiver and through the HDMI switch, but it introduced a ground loop hum which persisted even when the HDMI switch was set to a local source that didn't use the Redmere cable. Apparently there doesn't exist any HDMI ground loop isolators, so I'll send it back unless I find some other solution soon.


----------



## rxcats

I got the following response from Monoprice today which my be helpful to others: 



"Thank you for contacting Monoprice Support. Glad to see your interest in our products. 

For the kind of set up you are planning to set up, Unfortunately I would not recommend using any active Redmere cables. Redmere cables will only be compatible when connected directly between a source device and a display, it will not work if you are using any kind of adapter or device between them. So connecting them through so may different devices and connections would not be compatible with the active chipset of the Redmere cables.

For the majority of the connections it would be best to use passive High Speed HDMI cables to complete the connections up to the Oppo device, then use the Redmere cable for the output of the Oppo directly to the TV. So long as the Redmere is the last in the run from a source device to the TV/display, the Redmere should work just fine. You just cannot use it when connecting two different source devices or connecting through a switch/splitter device."


----------



## bearxor

So I've just had a really crappy Redmere experience.

I ordered a 50ft cable to replace my 25ft and two 6 foot couplers so I could have one run going from my AV receiver to the projector.

Cable came in and, like a good little boy, I tried it first going straight from my AV receiver to the projector with snaking it. No signal. Great, I'll deal with it later. Replace it with the cables that were run previously and no signal... WTF... It was working just a few moments ago.

Tried every combination I could think of with my old cables and nothing worked. Only hooking the cable directly up to the output device and bypassing the receiver worked fine. Fine, whatever, I'll hook an optical audio cable from the Xbox to the receiver and deal with it next weekend.

Next weekend is this weekend. The receiver recognizes that something is plugged in to it when I select an input but all I get is a blue screen on every single HDMI input.

Go and buy a new receiver... Existing wiring works fine. Hook Redmere up from receiver to projector and nothing. Hook it up to a source directly, like an AppleTV or FireTV and nothing.

At this point, I'm convinced something the cable did fried the HDMI input board on my old AV receiver. This $50 cable has now cost me $500.


----------



## Mr.G

As like others here Redmere can introduce problems that you don't see with regular HDMI cables.

I purchased a 3 foot Monster (Redmere) cable to use with my new Tivo Roamio OTA DVR. No real reason to use Redmere just purchased on a whim to try, I guess I liked its slim form factor.

The Redmere ran from the Tivo directly to my Denon AVR. From the Denon it went to a Darbee Darblet then to a splitter which feeds my plasma HDTV and front projector.

The Redmere chipset caused the Darblet to reset to its factory setting 4 times usually with a purple screen as it loses the handshake. This has happened over the course of 2 months so the Redmere functioned fine for most of the time...but would then cause the reset when switching modes on Tivo.

I replaced the Redmere cable with a regular 3 foot Ultra Thin HDMI cable and have had no problems since.

Fortunately no horror story like 'bearxor'.


----------



## Otto Pylot

The most reliable connection for a cable with Redmere technology is a direct connection, That is source -> cable -> sink. No switches or any intermediary devices. Because the sink end draws a little power via the chipset there can be issues but as to damaging equipment, I'm not sure about that. The current draw is extremely small. If your run is under 25' a Redmere cable can be an overkill because as noted above, a high speed passive HDMI thin factor cable will work just fine in most cases, and be cheaper. If you absolutely have to run an HDMI cable over long distances the Redmere would be the way to go keeping in mind the connection issue (direct) and the directionality of the cable. Otherwise a thicker gauge cable with some sort of active termination may be in order.


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## qwerty_88

there a new redmere 50ft hdmi cable.

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025506&p_id=12962&seq=1&format=2

specs say it can do 18gbps and [email protected] previous version is only 10.2gbps.

anyone has tried this?


----------



## Otto Pylot

Carefully read the specs. CL2 is in-wall fire rating so that has nothing to do with performance.

"Up to [email protected]" depending on length and cable gauge. That doesn't necessarily mean that at 50' you're going to be able to push [email protected] Probably but I would specifically ask if that's your goal, and get it in writing.

"Rated 18Gbps for lengths up to 50', these cables are certified to accurately transmit all of the features supported in the latest HDMI specification." What does that mean? Are they certified to 50' at 18Gbps or is that for certain lengths? HDMI 2.0 has lots of specs, quite a few aren't yet in consumer devices and some may never be (just like HDMI 1.4). I wouldn't worry about the 18Gbps sales pitch unless you have devices that can transmit at that bandwidth. Current passive high speed HDMI cables can do [email protected] but is limited somewhat to bit depth.

There's nothing wrong with that cable. $60 for 50' is still a bit pricey though. I would look at how you want to install that cable and then review your options.


----------



## dalto

qwerty_88 said:


> there a new redmere 50ft hdmi cable.
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025506&p_id=12962&seq=1&format=2
> 
> specs say it can do 18gbps and [email protected] previous version is only 10.2gbps.
> 
> anyone has tried this?


I have been testing a couple of monoprice's shorter redmere cables that claim to support 18Gbps and in my testing have been unable to pass a 4K 4:4:[email protected] signal through them.

The pass a 4K 4:4:[email protected] signal no problem.


----------



## reallynotnick

dalto said:


> I have been testing a couple of monoprice's shorter redmere cables that claim to support 18Gbps and in my testing have been unable to pass a 4K 4:4:[email protected] signal through them.
> 
> The pass a 4K 4:4:[email protected] signal no problem.


And I assume you are able to pass 3840x2160p 4:4:[email protected] just fine when you swap it out for a different cable? Also I assume you are of course using 8bit color?


----------



## dalto

reallynotnick said:


> And I assume you are able to pass 3840x2160p 4:4:[email protected] just fine when you swap it out for a different cable? Also I assume you are of course using 8bit color?


Yes, all those things are true.

In further testing one of the group I bought does pass that signal fine so I am not sure what to make of that. Clearly, two of the cables are not up to spec somehow. I guess I need to call Monoprice.


----------



## reallynotnick

dalto said:


> Yes, all those things are true.
> 
> In further testing one of the group I bought does pass that signal fine so I am not sure what to make of that. Clearly, two of the cables are not up to spec somehow. I guess I need to call Monoprice.


Thanks! I just wanted to make sure as I was thinking of getting the 25ft 18Gb/s Redmere cable, but I'd hate to spend that kind of money on a cable if they didn't work.

Odd that one works and the other doesn't. Hopefully the one is just a fluke.


----------



## Otto Pylot

Any cable mfr will have a bad cable every now and then but if you stick with the "big three", Monoprice, Blue Jeans, or MediaBridge you really can't go wrong.


----------



## LennDawg

> there a new redmere 50ft hdmi cable.
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025506&p_id=12962&seq=1&format=2
> 
> specs say it can do 18gbps and [email protected] previous version is only 10.2gbps.
> 
> anyone has tried this?


Was wondering if this cable would work for the run in my wall. Going from my TV, down the wall, across my basement ceiling, into my Denon receiver. Will these directional cables work going into my receiver? If you guys don't suggest this cable, could you give me something that will work for me in this setup? I need 50-60ft. Don't necessarily need a 4k capable cable, but would be nice to have it for the future.


----------



## Otto Pylot

At 50-60' you would probably need an active cable such as one with Redmere technology, but I don't know if they run that long. A heavier gauge passive HDMI cable would probably work but the loss of flexibility and increased strain on the inputs is something that needs to be considered. For "future proofing" I'd run a solid core CAT-6 and terminate it with something like HDBT. A bit expensive but at that length your options are limited even if you don't want/need 4k/60. What ever you do, at that length I HIGHLY RECOMMEND CONDUIT. Didn't mean to shout but that's the only way to future proof and make cable repairs/replacements etc easy to do.

If you are considering using ARC I don't believe that ARC is doable at that length on an active cable.


----------



## johndoejohndoes

I need a 10 Foot HDMI Cable that's In-Wall Rated (CL2) and I'd like to get 4K (with 18Gbps) but I don't think that's an option.

I'm settling on these - http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025507&p_id=9168&seq=1&format=2

But I read the CL2 isn't printed on the cable. I'll need CL2 printed on the cable to pass inspection.

Can anyone confirm?


----------



## BleedingBlue

I need to connect my projector to my receiver, can anyone recommend the proper HDMI cable? Would it be the Redmere everyone is referencing above ?


----------



## Ratman

BleedingBlue said:


> I need to connect my projector to my receiver, can anyone recommend the proper HDMI cable? Would it be the Redmere everyone is referencing above ?


Perhaps.
How long does the cable need to be?


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## BleedingBlue

Ratman said:


> Perhaps.
> How long does the cable need to be?


I thought I included that, my fault. Roughly 25ft


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## Ratman

IMO, a Redmere would probably be a good bet. 
At 25', a passive "high speed" HDMI cable may about the limit.


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## BleedingBlue

Ratman said:


> IMO, a Redmere would probably be a good bet.
> At 25', a passive "high speed" HDMI cable may about the limit.



Great, I would rather pay a bit more to get the right cable.


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## Otto Pylot

Ratman's advice is solid. Follow it. Just curious, at your 25' length are you running the cable in-wall by any chance? If so, we should discuss the merits of installing conduit.


----------



## smahoney1

I need to run a few HDMI cables through the wall to connect from TV direct to PS4, PS3, Roku box, and occasional PC Hook up. The distance is only about 4' in-wall. I am looking at Monoprice product 9168 Select Active High Speed HDMI 10FT with Redmere Technology or Product 6076 Commercial Series Premium High Speed 10FT HDMI with Mesh. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Need 4 cables. Thanks in advance. Also considering 6FT lengths instead of 10FT.


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## Otto Pylot

At 4' an active cable like Redmere would be an overkill, even at 10'. Any passive high speed HDMI cable will do at that length. If you think you may need the magical 18Gbps bandwidth, BJC is now certifying some of their passive high speed HDMI cables for 18Gbps at a given length. There is nothing magical about Redmere cables other than they can meet the HDMI specs at lengths longer than 25' and use a small gauge wire. If that 4' distance is mostly vertical (up/down the inside of a wall) installing a conduit would certainly make feeding the cable easier and also for cable repair/replacement because cable specs will be changing.


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## smahoney1

Thank you for the reply. Yes the distance in-wall is vertical. I have existing HDMI cables now with the mesh but they are difficult to bend around tight corners and was hoping to find something that would be easy to bend and still safe behind the wall. The Monoprice online chat rep recommended the Redmere cables. I've never heard of them until now. I assume a simple HDMI cable would work considering the short distance behind the wall?


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## Otto Pylot

At that distance, you could probably get away with thin, passive high speed hdmi cables as well. Just be careful with the bend radius of the cable, especially with the thin cables (active or passive). Also be careful of pulling the cable thru the wall. You don't want to damage the connector end.


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## DrewB

So I have been reading this thread with interest as I have similar issues. Room is 17 feet in length and the projector is on the back wall. I was hoping to move all of the AV equipment to the front of the room and run the hdmi thru the ceiling to the front wall. This would put a run right around 35-40ft to make sure I have enough cushion. I can see the point for the cat6/HDBT approach but it's pricey. I can run 2 40ft for under $100...using one and having one for backup. Any thoughts on that strategy? 

Also, an installer is suggesting I use Cat6 with this setup...seems really cheap from suggestions put fourth so far. Am I missing something?
http://www.mycablemart.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=4464


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## Otto Pylot

If you go the MyCableMart route, make sure you carefully read the return policy. I would also lay the cable and adapter out on the floor and test it thoroughly for a couple of days before installation. Make sure you use solid core CAT-6, (preferably American made, not Chinese) and not CAT-6 patch cable.


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## n8dgr84

Just FYI I'm successfully running a 35' redmere from a Yamaha RX-A800 to a Sony VPL-HW50ES projector. Has been working for 2+ years no issues.


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## smahoney1

I ended up purchasing a 10' Redmere HDMI cable from Monoprice and it's working out great. No issues what so ever. I was really surprised how small the cable is compared to my other Monoprice HDMI cables with the net jackets.


----------



## Otto Pylot

smahoney1 said:


> I ended up purchasing a 10' Redmere HDMI cable from Monoprice and it's working out great. No issues what so ever. I was really surprised how small the cable is compared to my other Monoprice HDMI cables with the net jackets.


At 10', a Redmere cable is a bit of an overkill (even though I have a couple of 10' cables in my system). A passive, thin gauge HDMI cable would probably work just as well. There is nothing magical about an active cable other than you can maintain the HDMI specs longer than 25' and use a small gauge wire.


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## smahoney1

I understand it's probably overkill. I was concerned because the cable runs vertically behind the wall for about 2.5'


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## Otto Pylot

If the cable is CL2 or CL3 rated you should have no worries. Vertical or horizontal makes no difference unless you have a sharp bend. The cables are thin so you don't want to push the bend radius.


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## shyyour

Please i need some help. I've decided to change my HDMI cable (reduce lenght) and i cant tell if there's any major difference between the two:

1. Select Active Series High Speed HDMI® Cable with RedMere 
2. Cabernet Ultra CL2

The difference in price is quite small so i dont mind getting the more expensive one if its worth it. Because of my location returning/exchange is almost impossible so i'll rather get the better one now than have to re-order at some other point. 

If there's another option thats cheaper and will work at 30ft im also open to that

Thanks for all your help


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## Otto Pylot

At 30', you might be able to get away with a passive cable that has a thicker gauge wire like the Cabernet. 

Keep in mind that the CL2 is a fire rating for in-wall installation and has nothing to do with performance. If you're installing in-wall, the mantra is use conduit for whatever kind of cable you use, passive, active, solid core CAT-6/7, etc. It makes for upgrading/replacing cable so much easier. If you do go with the Cabernet be aware of the bend radius, thicker gauge cables are less flexible and put more strain on the inputs.

That being said, I would tend to lean towards the active cable. At 30', there shouldn't be any problems at all with signal, the cable is smaller and a bit more flexible so you have a little more lee-way with the bend radius, and there is less strain on the inputs. The downside, it is an active cable with a chipset in the sink end (tv side) so it is possible, over time, that the chipset will fail like any other electronic device so the ability to easily replace it is something to consider. Again, the use of a conduit comes into play.


----------



## shyyour

Otto Pylot said:


> At 30', you might be able to get away with a passive cable that has a thicker gauge wire like the Cabernet.
> 
> Keep in mind that the CL2 is a fire rating for in-wall installation and has nothing to do with performance. If you're installing in-wall, the mantra is use conduit for whatever kind of cable you use, passive, active, solid core CAT-6/7, etc. It makes for upgrading/replacing cable so much easier. If you do go with the Cabernet be aware of the bend radius, thicker gauge cables are less flexible and put more strain on the inputs.
> 
> That being said, I would tend to lean towards the active cable. At 30', there shouldn't be any problems at all with signal, the cable is smaller and a bit more flexible so you have a little more lee-way with the bend radius, and there is less strain on the inputs. The downside, it is an active cable with a chipset in the sink end (tv side) so it is possible, over time, that the chipset will fail like any other electronic device so the ability to easily replace it is something to consider. Again, the use of a conduit comes into play.


Thanks for that so the difference between the two is just the CL2 and they are both active right. I plan to install a conduit as you said even with the passive cables they might go bad at some time.

I also wanted to ask do active cables help with handshake issues?


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## Otto Pylot

Oops, I see that the Cabernet Ultra CL2 cable is an active cable as well. As long as it is an active high speed HDMI cable then there really isn't any difference between the two other than the fire rating, they both apparently use Redmere technology. Th Cabernet cable mentions 18Gbps speeds. Unless the length of cable you purchase comes with a Certificate of Compliance (the certification is a little vague in the specs) that the cable length has been certified by an ATC, there is no guarantee that the cable will perform at that speed. 18Gbps is the new buzzword so you need to be careful with the marketing claims that a lot of cable mfrs are making. However, with the use of a conduit, replacing is relatively easy. Googling the Cabernet cable, http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=12740, it says "Cabernet Ultra CL2 Active Standard HDMI® Cable, 100ft", but in the body of the specs it mentions High Speed HDMI. So what is it? A Standard HDMI cable or a High Speed HDMI cable?

The Select Series, http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=9169, mentions the wire gauge and 10.2GBps speed, which is the upper limit for HDMI 1.4 and the lower limit for HDMI 2.0.

I would think that either cable will work but I'd certainly lay it out on the floor for a couple of days and thoroughly test it for what you want to push thru it before installing.

The only advantage of an active cable is that you can run longer lengths (past the magic 25' which is the current certifiable length for HDMI 1.4 hardware) and use a thinner gauge wire. Other than that, they should perform just like a passive cable.


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## shyyour

Otto Pylot said:


> Oops, I see that the Cabernet Ultra CL2 cable is an active cable as well. As long as it is an active high speed HDMI cable then there really isn't any difference between the two other than the fire rating, they both apparently use Redmere technology. Th Cabernet cable mentions 18Gbps speeds. Unless the length of cable you purchase comes with a Certificate of Compliance (the certification is a little vague in the specs) that the cable length has been certified by an ATC, there is no guarantee that the cable will perform at that speed. 18Gbps is the new buzzword so you need to be careful with the marketing claims that a lot of cable mfrs are making. However, with the use of a conduit, replacing is relatively easy. Googling the Cabernet cable, http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=12740, it says "Cabernet Ultra CL2 Active Standard HDMI® Cable, 100ft", but in the body of the specs it mentions High Speed HDMI. So what is it? A Standard HDMI cable or a High Speed HDMI cable?
> 
> The Select Series, http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=9169, mentions the wire gauge and 10.2GBps speed, which is the upper limit for HDMI 1.4 and the lower limit for HDMI 2.0.
> 
> I would think that either cable will work but I'd certainly lay it out on the floor for a couple of days and thoroughly test it for what you want to push thru it before installing.
> 
> The only advantage of an active cable is that you can run longer lengths (past the magic 25' which is the current certifiable length for HDMI 1.4 hardware) and use a thinner gauge wire. Other than that, they should perform just like a passive cable.


Thanks a lot. i went with the Cabernet cable, Monoprice is doing a 20% sale on them now so came to the price as the other cable. 

Thanks again


----------



## Raven654

a quick question: Whats the difference between Active Redmere and just plain Active? They come in the exact same lengths?


----------



## Otto Pylot

Raven654 said:


> a quick question: Whats the difference between Active Redmere and just plain Active? They come in the exact same lengths?


Nothing. Redmere is the underlying technology for active cables that carry the Redmere name. Basically, an active cable requires some sort of power supply whereas a passive cable doesn't.


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## ddigler

I need a 40' cable to connect my AVR to my projector. Although i'm not running a 4k projector ATM I want to be future proof with this cable. Please verify this cable is future proof or advise if there is a dif cable I should be looking at.

Cabernet Ultra CL2 Active High Speed HDMI® Cable, 40ft (monoprice)

TY


----------



## Joe Fernand

No HDMI cable is truly 'future proofed' and the longer the cable the less sure you can be with current never mind future formats.

A big conduit is the best option - a couple of runs of solid core CAT6 being the next best option.

Joe


----------



## ddigler

Joe Fernand said:


> No HDMI cable is truly 'future proofed' and the longer the cable the less sure you can be with current never mind future formats.
> 
> A big conduit is the best option - a couple of runs of solid core CAT6 being the next best option.
> 
> Joe


great point on the conduit. I will do that.


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## Joe Fernand

No 'Active' cable currently supports everything the New Ultra HD BD standard requires - even if they mention '4K'.

Joe


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## mileofsmiles

I had to return my Redmere cables because no video was picked up by LG 60LF6100 smart TV. I received new cables and still no video with new cable. 
The new Redmere HDMI work when I connected to my computer. 
I get video on my TV when using my old HDMI. 
I know Redmere are directional and they are in correct orientation.

Are there any known issues with LG smart TV and Redmere HDMI.


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## Otto Pylot

Not that I'm aware of or have heard. What is the source that you are trying to connect to your tv with either of the Redmere cables? What is the distance? If the old HDMI cable works why do you need an active cable?


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## tezster

Joe Fernand said:


> No 'Active' cable currently supports everything the New Ultra HD BD standard requires - even if they mention '4K'.
> 
> Joe


To clarify, will Redmere Active cables work with 4K/10-bit/HDR content? Isn't it all down to bandwidth? I thought they supported up to 18Gbps.


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## Otto Pylot

If you're concerned about 18Gbps, then you will need to find a cable that has been certified by an HDMI Licensing ATC for that length, and the Certificate of Compliance is available. A certification is your only "guarantee" that the length of cable you purchased meets all current HDMI hardware specifications including 18Gbps. To date, I know of only one cable mfr that certifies a passive 18Gbps high speed hdmi cable via an ATC, and that is BJC. Active cables are a different matter. I haven't seen anything definitive that indicates anyone is certifying via an ATC active (Redmere) cables for 18Gbps at the lengths that an active cable can be run (>25'). A lot of cable mfrs are claiming that their cables are tested and will meet 18Gbps with careful wording on their ads and package labeling, so you'll just have to take your chances. Nobody is guaranteeing anything with an active cable. Support up to 18Gbps doesn't mean the cable will support and sustain 18Gbps ( that's what a certification program is for). It's analogous to your ISP stating you have download speeds up to 50Mbs but your routinely get 45Mbps.


----------



## scgt1

Monoprice still following this thread? I'm currently on chat with monoprice for the second time now on a 60ft redmere cable that has failed. These things are only lasting what 3 months at best. All of a sudden one day the pic and vid just goes away and I get no response out of the display. What's worse is I have this cable ran under my house from our office to our living room tv. So I have to climb under the house not once but twice since I have to mail this piece of junk back on my dime. This is two cables now I'm having to pay to ship back.

This issue you found from http://www.avsforum.com/forum/168-h...noprice-redmere-hdmi-cables.html#post22172333 (Post 4 on this topic) apparently isn't really corrected from several years ago or it is a new problem that has developed. You sent new cables out then with out requiring a return shipment. It would be nice if you would realize there is a problem with the current design also and treat it like you did 4 years ago.


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## Ratman

http://www.monoprice.com/help?pn=contact

IMHO... ask for a refund, return the cable and look for a 60' active HDMI alternative or perhaps another solution (IE, Cat6 HDbT...)


----------



## Roudan

Hi
Is there a redmere cable with 50ft length for 4K with HDR support ? Is it 18gps or higher ? I have one 50ft for 1080p with 10gps. I love it . It is quite thin. Thanks


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## scgt1

Ratman said:


> http://www.monoprice.com/help?pn=contact
> 
> IMHO... ask for a refund, return the cable and look for a 60' active HDMI alternative or perhaps another solution (IE, Cat6 HDbT...)


I've already contact the support department and started the wheels rolling for another replacement as my message stated. The point is these have a design flaw and they replaced them in the past totally free of charge. They should do the same now. (IE Not charging the customer to send a defective product back) I'm currently running a blue cat 5 cable through my house taped to the walls using hdmi converter boxes. I would just permanently run the cat cable under the house but and use this equipment but they boxes aren't 4k compliant only 1080P. I doubt Monoprice will refund my purchase since it has been almost a year since my initial purchase let alone several months since the replacement. 5/29/15 was the first cable purchase.


----------



## Ratman

Well... since you've had bad luck with the last set of active cables, as I suggested, look towards a different vendor and/or an alternative.

As for Cat5......... for 4K requirements, you may want to consider solid core Cat6 cables and the appropriate converters as opposed to being frustrated and save shipping costs for returns.


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## Otto Pylot

I'm curious as to what the poster means by CAT-5. Is he referring to CAT-5 ethernet patch cable or actual CAT-5 solid core cable (non-CCS) cable which he has to terminate himself. CAT-6/7 solid core would be a better choice as Ratman suggested.


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## Joe Fernand

For an 'installed' situation HDMI over CAT is the better option every time.

As above you will want solid core, non-CCA CAT6.

Joe

PS Run 2x CAT6!


----------



## crash1977

Joe Fernand said:


> For an 'installed' situation HDMI over CAT is the better option every time.
> 
> As above you will want solid core, non-CCA CAT6.
> 
> Joe
> 
> PS Run 2x CAT6!


How exactly is this accomplished ? I have hmdi running over cat6 that are supplied and terminated via hdbaseT. HdbaseT cannot do 18gbps or pass HDR at the moment .

Is there another technology that allows for full 4K 4:4:4 @60 fps over cat6 ?


----------



## Otto Pylot

crash1977 said:


> How exactly is this accomplished ? I have hmdi running over cat6 that are supplied and terminated via hdbaseT. HdbaseT cannot do 18gbps or pass HDR at the moment .
> 
> Is there another technology that allows for full 4K 4:4:4 @60 fps over cat6 ?


Some are turning to FOC but even that has some issues. The problem is that the mfrs have pushed this improved video technology before the connectivity issues have been worked out and standardized. Again, as I mentioned, what kind of CAT-6 cable are you terminating with HDBT? Are you using CAT-6 ethernet patch cable or are you using actual solid core, non-CCS (Copper Coated Steel) CAT-6?


----------



## crash1977

Otto Pylot said:


> Some are turning to FOC but even that has some issues. The problem is that the mfrs have pushed this improved video technology before the connectivity issues have been worked out and standardized. Again, as I mentioned, what kind of CAT-6 cable are you terminating with HDBT? Are you using CAT-6 ethernet patch cable or are you using actual solid core, non-CCS (Copper Coated Steel) CAT-6?


Not sure honestly .. The jackets are unmarked so I assume it's standard cat6a that would be used for data applications .

What options do you think exist for this setup ?


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## Otto Pylot

crash1977 said:


> Not sure honestly .. The jackets are unmarked so I assume it's standard cat6a that would be used for data applications .
> 
> What options do you think exist for this setup ?


If it's standard ethernet CAT-6 data cable it could be the cable. Solid core CAT-6/7, non-CCS, is usually sold in spools of 50', 100', etc and is not terminated at the ends. You can use it to extend an ethernet connection by terminating with a punch-down keystone jack which results in a standard ethernet connection or you can extend an HDMI connection by terminating with HDBT. Solid core wires are individually insulated, are solid copper, and a thicker gauge than standard CAT-6 ethernet cable.


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## crash1977

Otto Pylot said:


> If it's standard ethernet CAT-6 data cable it could be the cable. Solid core CAT-6/7, non-CCS, is usually sold in spools of 50', 100', etc and is not terminated at the ends. You can use it to extend an ethernet connection by terminating with a punch-down keystone jack which results in a standard ethernet connection or you can extend an HDMI connection by terminating with HDBT. Solid core wires are individually insulated, are solid copper, and a thicker gauge than standard CAT-6 ethernet cable.


It definitely was from a spool and terminated on the spot. Are you suggesting we can instead of using hdbaseT at the ends connect them to hmdi adapters ? I would definitely try that. 

We actually have two cat6 to each location and drop so we can experiment


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## ereed

Asking you experts here. Just got sony 45es projector so I need longer HDMI cable. I need 50 feet straight from Panny bdt500 player to the sony 45es for video only. Would I be better off getting Mediabridge Ultra series 50 foot passive cable, Monoprice 50 foot Cabernet or active cable, or the Monoprice 75 foot slim run fiber optic hdmi cable. I don't mind extra 20 feet or so since I can hide it, just want to know which is best route to take for 50-60 foot with least amount of issues. Thanks.


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## oRSpetsnaz

I am getting ready to purchase some HDMI cables to replace my current rat's nest of various length and speed cables behind my entertainment center. I have a 4K TV that supports 4:4:4, a receiver that passes it through, and an HTPC with HDMI 2.0a (GTX 950). I was looking at replacing all of my cables with some of the Monoprice 6 ft 18 Gbps Slim Run HDMI cables that have the Redmere chips in them, but I am a little hesitant because the idea of cleaning up a dirty signal makes me uncomfortable. Is there any evidence at all showing that these cables will degrade picture or audio quality when you are truly maxing out the bandwidth of an 18 Gbps HDMI cable (2160p, 60hz, 4:4:4 chroma)?


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## Otto Pylot

^^^^ the only advantage of active cables (with Redmere technology) is that you can push the signal over distances longer than 25' and still maintain the signal integrity (timing, error correction, etc). There is no "cleaning up" of the signal. Either it works or it doesn't. The other advantage of Redmere cables is that the AWG is thinner so there is more flexibility in the cable. All of this is achieved by the cable drawing a little power from the sink end (tv or receiver).

Using an active cable for a 6' run is an overkill. However, to be honest, I use Redmere cables at that length but I purchased them for the thinness, not the technology. Most people won't have an issues pushing 4k, 4:4:4 @60Hz with a good quality passive High Speed HDMI cable. AWG is also important. At 6', I'd look for a passive cable that is 24AWG. Just keep in mind the bend radius cause you don't want to crimp the cable or put excessive pressure on the HDMI inputs.

The chipsets required for active cables are slowly being upgraded to adequately handle 18Gbps reliably. That is also true for the hardware devices. Cables can not be upgraded via firmware and only some devices can. The problem is you don't know which versions the devices or cables have. I would think that most devices (tv's, receivers, etc) recently purchased are current, but anything over a year old and certainly two, may not be.

If your cables are easily accessible, I'd look for a passive 6' Premium High Speed HDMI cable. The name "Premium High Speed HDMI Cable" is used to designate that the cable has been tested and certified by an ATC (Authorized Testing Center) which uses the standardized certification program designed and implemented by HDMI Licensing. The cable, if authentic, will come with some sort of label or certificate of authenticity. That's about the only assurance you have that all of the HDIM 2.0a hardware specifications have been met. However, that is not a 100% guarantee because everyone's equipment and setups are different. You may have to try a couple of different cables before you find one that meets your expectations. Hence the question about easy access to your cables.


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## oRSpetsnaz

Otto Pylot said:


> ^^^^ the only advantage of active cables (with Redmere technology) is that you can push the signal over distances longer than 25' and still maintain the signal integrity (timing, error correction, etc). There is no "cleaning up" of the signal. Either it works or it doesn't. The other advantage of Redmere cables is that the AWG is thinner so there is more flexibility in the cable. All of this is achieved by the cable drawing a little power from the sink end (tv or receiver).
> 
> Using an active cable for a 6' run is an overkill. However, to be honest, I use Redmere cables at that length but I purchased them for the thinness, not the technology. Most people won't have an issues pushing 4k, 4:4:4 @60Hz with a good quality passive High Speed HDMI cable. AWG is also important. At 6', I'd look for a passive cable that is 24AWG. Just keep in mind the bend radius cause you don't want to crimp the cable or put excessive pressure on the HDMI inputs.
> 
> The chipsets required for active cables are slowly being upgraded to adequately handle 18Gbps reliably. That is also true for the hardware devices. Cables can not be upgraded via firmware and only some devices can. The problem is you don't know which versions the devices or cables have. I would think that most devices (tv's, receivers, etc) recently purchased are current, but anything over a year old and certainly two, may not be.
> 
> If your cables are easily accessible, I'd look for a passive 6' Premium High Speed HDMI cable. The name "Premium High Speed HDMI Cable" is used to designate that the cable has been tested and certified by an ATC (Authorized Testing Center) which uses the standardized certification program designed and implemented by HDMI Licensing. The cable, if authentic, will come with some sort of label or certificate of authenticity. That's about the only assurance you have that all of the HDIM 2.0a hardware specifications have been met. However, that is not a 100% guarantee because everyone's equipment and setups are different. You may have to try a couple of different cables before you find one that meets your expectations. Hence the question about easy access to your cables.


Thank you for the response. I decided that I am just going to pull the trigger on them and see for myself. I only have my HTPC and receiver that actually require a full 18Gbps HDMI cable for my use, so I am just going to say screw it. The only reason I am looking at these is that you can see the back of my entertainment center every time you walk into my place and anything I can do to clean up that rat's nest makes me feel better.


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## etp

And recommendations for 9 and 12 feet. 6 feet does not give you room to move equipment around while connected.


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## Otto Pylot

Why would ever want to move equipment while connected? You're just asking for trouble. Depending on what you are trying to push, a good quality passive high speed HDMI cable may work well if you don't mind a thicker gauge wire. In not, there are lots of active cables in the 15' range that will probably work. You just need to find the one that works best for you.


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## freddy32

*Home theater cables*

Hello,

I know this thread is a bit old, but I still wanted to add one the latest great place to find home theater cables.

I recently found this website : edwinhome .com
Their prices are a bit higher, but they deliver great professionnal products. All cables I received are industrial grades with good connectors. 

If you're looking for in-wall cables, this is the place to go, since most products are fire rated for in-wall installations.
A lot of Monoprice cables I've bought were not fire rated and therefore doesn't comply with building regulations.


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## Otto Pylot

^^^^^ Nope. Just another dealer selling cables that are a bit overpriced. Lots of dealers like Monoprice, BJC, etc. sell HDMI cables with CL2/CL3 ratings. There aren't any detailed cable descriptions that I could find other than "provides high speed and supports ethernet". Pretty much all high speed hdmi cables support ethernet, which is nice, only there are no consumer devices that take advantage of that HDMI hardware spec. What does "high speed" mean? 8.91Gbps, 10.2Gbps, 18Gbps? The best places to look for HDMI cables (passive or active) is Monoprice, BJC, MediaBridge, etc.


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## Fahrenheit85

So with the redmere cables, if I use one from device to avr should I then not use one from the AVR to the TV? I ask because they show this warning

"Note also that only one Active HDMI cable should be present in any single cable run, even if using a switch, splitter, or matrix. Connecting multiple active HDMI cables in series will cause them to fail to reliably transmit the video signal because each is trying to do the same thing."


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