# I need an AV switch; Any recommendations?



## orestesdd

I need to buy an AV switch, for my Denon AVR-3300 does not have enough optical and component inputs--it only has 2 component inputs and 3 digital audio inputs. I am in the process to add a Japanese import PS2 to my system, but I don't have a way for my Denon receiver to accommodate this new PS2. And before I forget I have comcast top box set hooked directly to my HDTV, but I was not able to hook up its optical 5.1 audio output to my receiver; also let me just mention that I have two component inputs on my HDTV, one used by the comcast box, and the other for everything else via my AV receiver.


Sorry for the long post, but I hope to avoid many questions down the line.


I'd appreciate any comment and suggestions. Please, only post where to buy if you have had experience with the e-tailer (or online vendor), and you know it is a reliable online retailer.


Thanks.


Regards,

orestesdd


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## Tyson Jordan

I own, and am very happy with, the Audio Authority Model 1154A. I have had it only for a couple of months, but I am impressed with it so far. It has four Component/Optical/Digital Coax inputs. This is the only item I have purchased from this e-tailer but I had no problems with them. I believe the name is Copperbox. It will probably be one of the first ones to show when you search the product. Happy on-line shopping!


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## orestesdd

Thank you, Tyson. I will look into it. I think this is what I want.


Regards,

orestesdd


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## Tyson Jordan

You're very welcome, and welcome to the forum!


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## Elfman

I just purchased the Joytech 240C. It was recently released and has 7:1 (7 in and 1 out). It has component, composite, optical and Ethernet. It can be controlled manually or with a IR remote. This is great since I can program my Pronto easily for it. The comparable Pelican product was similar but was a manual switch box. Plus the Joytech was cheaper than the Pelican!











It doesn't do any conversion (component converted to composite or s-video). But it will convert all video signals to RF if you just want to hook it up to a plain ol TV.


So far so good. For the price, it can't be beat.


Look for it at your local Best Buy.


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## itsxrayelk

I'll second the above recommendation on the Joytech 240C. I bought one last week (also from Best Buy) for $89.99 after going in there to look for the Pelican product.


I had a similar problem as orestesdd in that my Harmon Kardon AVR75 receiver is so old that it doesn't even have component inputs, only one optical input, and one digital coax input and my TV only has two component inputs and I had run out of capacity, plus I hated having to select different a/v inputs on the various devices just to switch between cable and DVD, for example.


This device killed two birds with one stone, as it were. As you can see from the back panel it has plenty of capacity, and I now only have to press one button on the Joytech 240C's remote to switch both audio and video between devices.


To my untrained, though at least moderately discerning eye I could see no difference between video from my SA 8300HD cable box, or my 480p DVD player connected either through the Joytech 240C or directly to my HDTV.


It looks a lot nicer than the Pelican, and has a hi-fi component footprint. The other thing that I'd add to Elfman's comments is that you can program the 5 character LCD display to match whatever devices you have connected (e.g 1 = Cable, 2 = DVD, 3 = Media, 7 = Front, etc.)


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## extremegamer

I've heard and read other reviews that the Joy Tech 240C doens't pass a full HDTV signal, it'll have wavy lines or what not. Anyone try it?


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## WilliamG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *extremegamer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've heard and read other reviews that the Joy Tech 240C doens't pass a full HDTV signal, it'll have wavy lines or what not. Anyone try it?




I will say I had the Pelican switcher box and I was experiencing wavy lines rolling up the screen when in 1080i mode. A friend reproduced the SAME problem on his own Pelican switcher box on his 1080i TV. This is the more recent Pelican A/V switch with the remote control.


I took it back and got the Joytech 240C and can report, quite happily, that there are no interference issues at all, and 1080i looks great. I'm using it for all my consoles including my 360, and it works great. I even have it plugged into my universal remote and it changes inputs like a champ.


+1 for the Joytech over the Pelican.


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## MaximAvs

This Joytech 240C sounds promising! I have the Pelican switch box and have been happy with it. My only gripe is no remote control.


I might go in and pick up this Joytech just for that!!!


Sean


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## WilliamG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MaximAvs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This Joytech 240C sounds promising! I have the Pelican switch box and have been happy with it. My only gripe is no remote control.
> 
> 
> I might go in and pick up this Joytech just for that!!!
> 
> 
> Sean



If you have the non-remote Pelican, keep it. My friend and I had no problems with our non-remote Pelican switchers. As soon as we switched to the "new" remote-controlled Pelican switchers, we encountered this 1080i interference issue. Clearly there isn't enough shielding somewhere in the casing around the IR hardware.


The Joytech is a much better unit since it's smarter, you can customize the LCD to however you want to call each device (5 letters max), and just feels more sturdy than the Pelican device.


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## extremegamer

I ended up buying the new Pelican 2.0 switch. It has an LCD screen, switches optical and coaxial audio as well. Hooked it up and played around with it today, no issues in 720p or 1080i that I can see. Very happy with it.


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## itsxrayelk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *extremegamer* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've heard and read other reviews that the Joy Tech 240C doens't pass a full HDTV signal, it'll have wavy lines or what not. Anyone try it?



Yes. I have both a SA 8300HD cable box, and a D-Link DSM-520 HD Media Server hooked up to the Joytech 240C. Both pass a 1080i signal to my HDTV and there are no issues with any distortion that I can detect. My HDTV does not, however, support 720p (it's old) but I suspect that this would not be an issue either.


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## mattcoz

That Joytech one looks pretty good, but I'm looking for one with coaxial digital inputs, anyone know of any that aren't too expensive?


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## itsxrayelk

Yeah, it looks like that Pelican Universal System Selector Pro 2.0 that extremegamer mentioned above will work for you. It has three digital coaxial inputs and one out and is in the same price range as the Joytech.


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## c_hernandez32

Does it come with extra cables like the Pelican? Granted I would never use them, but it never hurts to ask.


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## tradewinds

I'm think about the Joytech too. Any negatives esp. on quality?


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## Elfman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mattcoz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That Joytech one looks pretty good, but I'm looking for one with coaxial digital inputs, anyone know of any that aren't too expensive?



Depending on your set up, you could easily set this up. If your are using component or s-video for your inputs, your unused video composite connection (yellow) could technially work for your coax digital audio connection. All of your connections should do that though since your output composite would have to go into the the coax input of your amp. But I think it could work.


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## Elfman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *c_hernandez32* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does it come with extra cables like the Pelican? Granted I would never use them, but it never hurts to ask.



Yes it does. It does NOT come with a Digital (optical) cable though. But comes with one set of everything else.


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## Elfman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tradewinds* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm think about the Joytech too. Any negatives esp. on quality?



I have been using this for about a month with great success. I have not noticed any video or audio signal noise what so ever.


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## itsxrayelk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Elfman* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have been using this for about a month with great success. I have not noticed any video or audio signal noise what so ever.



Same here.


I have my SA 8300HD cable box, d-link DSM-520 HD media server, progressive scan dvd player, and dvd recorder all hooked up to it using component / optical cables. Video out to my HDTV and audio out to my receiver. No signal issues whatsoever.


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## DanGraney




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tradewinds* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm think about the Joytech too. Any negatives esp. on quality?



Anybody know where I can find the Joytech in the US? I've been searching... drove around, no dice.


TIA


(sorry... forgot to mention that I have been scouring the sites listed on Joytech's retailer list, and nothing is coming up other than Best Buy)


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## tradewinds

Yep, only BB here in the USA I have seen it also. THey are backorder.


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## DanGraney




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tradewinds* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yep, only BB here in the USA I have seen it also. THey are backorder.



Crap. I guess I'll wait. I have the Pelican Pro (not the 2.0) and it does look pretty assy in HD on a 55". Thanks. I'll keep my eyes peeled.


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## tradewinds

Someone over on the 4805 thread mentioned that the Pelican 2.0 has issues with bright scenes and explosions so I am staying far from that, however I have not heard of any issues thus far of the Joytech in this regard.


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## DanGraney




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tradewinds* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Someone over on the 4805 thread mentioned that the Pelican 2.0 has issues with bright scenes and explosions so I am staying far from that, however I have not heard of any issues thus far of the Joytech in this regard.



The only issue I do recall seeing with the Joytech was something in regards to a screen in Guitar Hero. I just wish I could find the stinking thing... their website, and supposed list of North American retailers, is pretty much a lark.


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## itsxrayelk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DanGraney* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Anybody know where I can find the Joytech in the US? I've been searching... drove around, no dice.



Yeah, the only place I've seen it available was Best Buy... which is where I got mine (in-store).


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## itsxrayelk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tradewinds* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Someone over on the 4805 thread mentioned that the Pelican 2.0 has issues with bright scenes and explosions so I am staying far from that, however I have not heard of any issues thus far of the Joytech in this regard.



I have no issues whatsoever with my Joytech box in this regard. Since my last posting I added a Panasonic DMR-ES20 DVD recorder to my setup and been playing around with video from the different sources.


Last weekend I was playing Batman Begins (plenty of explosions) and The Day After Tomorrow (lots of bright snow scenes) on my regular progressive scan DVD player, the ES20, and VOD copies wirelessly (802.11g) from my media storage server to my D-Link DSM520 HD media server all of which go through my Joytech 240C and there were no issues whatsoever.


As I mentioned before I also have my SA 8300HD cable box routed through the Joytech too and there are no issues there either.


At the end of the day this box doesn't cost a lot, delivers a lot, and if you buy it from BB and happen to not like it, then they have their 31 day money back guarantee. My recommendation... give it a try.


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## DanGraney




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *itsxrayelk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yeah, the only place I've seen it available was Best Buy... which is where I got mine (in-store).



It's on order from Best Buy... none of the local BBs had them. Sadly, it's on backorder, so I have to wait.


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## tradewinds

unfortunarely my local 6 BBs do not have it and it is backordered online. I wish I could pick it up locally since I have some gift cards for them.


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## itsxrayelk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DanGraney* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The only issue I do recall seeing with the Joytech was something in regards to a screen in Guitar Hero.



I have yet to hook my PS2 up to the Joytech, because I have it in another room on a different setup. If I have time I'll give it a try, but I don't have Guitar Hero.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DanGraney* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just wish I could find the stinking thing... their website, and supposed list of North American retailers, is pretty much a lark.



I found mine in Best Buy, but in-store. I walked in all ready to buy the Pelican switcher, and then saw this thing next to it... looking sweeter, and $10 cheaper. This was a couple of months ago though, back when they first arrived... so maybe I got mine before too many people had heard about it but I seem to remember seeing them on the shelf in my local BB the last time I was in there.


Are you looking online only, or did you look in-store? Hope you find one.


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## itsxrayelk

Ah, I see your replies guys. Bummer! Well, I hope they get some for you soon! I see on their website a 1-2 week leadtime.


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## thecrazykevy

The Pelican Universal System Selector 2.0 is pretty good too if you don't want to wait. I'll been eyeing different video switchers for a while now. I wanted to wait for the Joytech Xbox 360 Control Center but got tired of waiting for it to come out and got the Pelican Universal System Selector 2.0 instead. Its better then the original. The deisgn looks better and now it comes with a remote and a blue back lit lcd display. Check out my mini review here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=640379


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## tradewinds

ebay has the Joytech 240 AV Control Center


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## kamino77

Hello.... long time reader, first time poster here..


anyway I have the Joytech but am experiencing MAJOR interference (looping scan line) issues. I was curious as to what some have done to resolve this.


I know it is sporatic.. some experience it, some do not. But any input has the problem (XBOX 360, HD Cable, progressive DVD).


I also purchased a Cables2Go 4to2 selector as well, same problem. I guess it's not the item but something in my config.


I have everything hooked up to a single surge protector. I'm baffled.


Any insight would be appreciated.










P


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## tradewinds

Which joytech model do you have? Can the firmware be updated? But since you have another selector and same issue you may have a ground loop problem. Usually means that something is not ground as it should but I will leave it up the the experts to help you resolve. Have you tried just plugging in one of the sources and also trying it directly (by passing the selector?) with the other sources completely plugged out of the wall? same problem?


THanks.


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## kamino77

No, I haven't tried that. But I will tonight for sure. Thanks.


I have heard about the ground loop issue but I have NO idea about that kind stuff. it completely confuses me. Then again, I really never had much told to me about it.


But I am going to test each component one by one tonight to see what the story is. Thanks again.


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## curtis104

Radio Shack has a Component Video switcher. The main reason I purchased it for the Dual Ouput of Component Video. I run it to my LCD and Front Projector. It has 4 Component Inputs, 4 SPDIF, and 4 Stereo Inputs. NO Optical. It also has Learning Remote features. Works great with my Harmony Remote. I believe it is on sale right now.


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## peter_c

Anyone using the RF out on the 240C. Everything is working great on it except the RF out. I am using it to feed some whole house video. I noticed that I get audio and a nice clean dark picture. Anyone else try the RF out yet?


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## peter_c

Found out that in order to use the RF out you have to have standard single video input or component video in. Works great for whole house video. (I have it plugged into a Motorola broadband amplifier to a Leviton 1-6 splitter).


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## DanGraney




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tradewinds* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> ebay has the Joytech 240 AV Control Center



thanks for the head's-up... i bought mine today!


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## starforsaken

I'm waiting for the new Joytech switchbox, which looks a lot like the xbox 360.


Here's the link :
http://www.joytech.net/products.php?...&lang=1&catID= 


I've just received a message from Joytech about the release date and if it's better than the 240c. Here's the email :



> Quote:
> The 360 Control Center is the better choice. As it will have the latest
> 
> software in it for the best result for HD. You should see it in the
> 
> stores in the next 2 months.



So I guess I'll be waiting if it's worth the wait.


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## tradewinds

I'll wait until someone trys this out with HDTV and give some feedback. I prefer the look of the 240C better for AV looks, the 360 looks just like a Xbox 360 (which is what I believe it was licensed for) and appears to only have 4 sets of inputs compare to the 240C which has seven.


I'm surprise they didn't throw in some DVI or HDMI in there, but I guess it is design just for game consoles.


The release date was supposed to be Sept. 2005 I think. Not sure what happened


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## cavalry12

I bought my Joytech 240C from Bestbuy two weeks and it worked great with my Motorola HD box and Xbox 360 in either 720p or 1080i. No signal degradation that I could observe. But alas it wasn't meant to be. It turns out that if I use my Xbox 360 in 480p, there is massive screen jitter on bright screens.


I took me a while to pinpoint the problem. It has something to do with the optical connection. As soon as you unplug the optical cable corresponding to the respective component connection, the jitter disappears. All the inputs exhibited the same behavior with screen jitter at 480p with optical cable plugged in for audio along with the component cable for videeo. Very strange.


I have eliminated the possiblity of a bad component cable or optical cable as well any bad inputs or my 360. It is definitely the 240C that is the culprit.


It is possible that mine is defective. I really liked this thing especially the remote switching and the excellent HD signal quality. Too bad it is going back. I might give the pelican a whirl to see the outcome.


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## tradewinds

I use optical and component at 480p and no problems whatsoever. Maybe you have a grounding issue of some kind. Anyone else getting these problems?


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## entrager

I have the same problem with jitter on 480p with bright screens. I haven't checked to see if disconnecting my optical cable fixes it or not.


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## entrager

I tried disconnecting the optical cables and I still get the jitter. Assuming there is some kind of grounding problem, how would I find and fix that?


I should probably just return the 240C and try the Pelican product.


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## tradewinds

Well, if you read earlier in the forum I think you will then experience the problems of the Pelican product. It will end up being which one you can comfortably live with. My suggestion is to get the Pelican first then keep the better one for you.


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## ARogan

I just got a joytech 240c from best buy too. The shielding around the optical must be bunk because I have a similar problem. On an xbox 480p with optical I get a "interference" pattern during very dark scenes. I unplug the optical and all is good. The screen never jumps during bright scenes though. This is consistent across all 4 ports that have optical.


It's not horrible so I'm learning to live with it. Besides a 4 way optical switch with remote cost at least $90 (anybody find a cheaper one?) so I say the video support is just a bonus. Hopefully these issues are resolved in the new 360 styled switch.


So is this optical issue a design flaw or did we just get bad ones? I'd swap it out to test but I bought the last one at my best buy and they show sold out all over town.


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## tradewinds

try almost all over the country. They have even stop selling it in the UK. I use 480i and 1080i in my case and have my projector with Forouja(?) do the de-interlacing and so far I am completely happy with it and see absolutely no signal loss. But the point that for this price point there really isn't anything that offers so may connections options for great quality picture with IR remote and RF output to boot.


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## tradewinds

it is hard to find. waiting for the 36 version.


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## ARogan

I found a 2nd joytech 240c at best buy and bought it just to see if the problem is systemic. It is. This one behaves exactly like the last one. The pattern is very slight and my wife thinks I'm crazy to be bothered by the very slight loss in quality. I might just keep this second one for my downstairs setup. I really do think they are a good value.


Here is my research on av switches:
AV Switches


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## tradewinds

Maybe it's time for you to spend the big bucks on the very high end selectors. I find no problems with the 240c and it works for my setup without any issues. I love the versatility it gives including the 7th input option and RF output. For the price point I have not found anything to beat it.


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## cavalry12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ARogan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I found a 2nd joytech 240c at best buy and bought it just to see if the problem is systemic. It is. This one behaves exactly like the last one. The pattern is very slight and my wife thinks I'm crazy to be bothered by the very slight loss in quality. I might just keep this second one for my downstairs setup. I really do think they are a good value.






ARogan, great link. Thanks.


I took mine back to the store and they still have two on the shelf tempting me to try another one to see if mine was defective but I decided to pass for the time being. I ended up hooking up my Motorola HD box through DVI and used the extra component input for my 360. I had to do some juggling around to get the optical through the receiver. I am completely saturated on my component as well optical input on my receiver and my tv. I am hoping to get the new Joytech selector as soon it comes out.


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## ARogan

I also have a theory about the screen jitter issue some of you experience. Do you think this only happens with CRT's? I'm using an LCD flat panel TV so maybe that makes a difference.


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## tradewinds

not sure. maybe that could be a reason. I use it with DLP and no issues with any type of scenes (bright or dark)


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## cavalry12

Well guys, curiosity got the best of me. Even though I said I wouldn't give Joytech 240C another chance, I ended up getting another one to do some more testing and to make sure mine wasn't faulty. I have got a few answers for you people. All these statements are from my own personal experience.


1) The jitter issue only pops up with CRT televisions. I have a 36" Sony Wega HS500 direct view CRT HD set. I also own the Dell 24" 2405FPW lcd monitor with component input. There was no jitter whatsoever with or without optical cable on my lcd monitor. I tried all three resolutions. Everything ran perfectly. On my Sony CRT set, it is an altogether different story. Just like my previous experience, with the optical cable plugged in, both the Xbox 360 and the Motoral HD cable box would exhibit jitter in 480p. 720p and 1080i ran fine. As soon as corresponding optical cables are unplugged, jitter disappeared.


2)The jitter phenomenon is most prominent on bright screens. For people with Xbox 360, the best way to see the jitter is the white Xbox 360 logo splash screen. Also, any game with lots of bright horizon is good for testing. I tried Halo 2 multiplayer in system link and picked the Zanzibar map . Look toward the water as soon as you respawn. You will see the edge of the screen jittering. In extreme circumstances, the edge of white/bright screens will cause wavy line at the edge of screen. Once again, this only happens on CRT HD sets.


3)I made every effort to eliminate any ground loops if there were any to begin with in the first place. I'm still perplexed with the results. It seems following conditions have to be true to experience jitter:


a)One needs to have a CRT based HD set.

b)Optical cable plugged in with corresponding component connection.

c)Presence of bright to very bright image.


I will add more information if I find out anything else about this problem.


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## DanGraney

Finally got the 240C... so far, VERY happy with the picture quality. No jitters to speak of, but it's on an lcd projector. The remote is not too hot, but I am using a Harmony 880... however, the response is a little iffy. Could just be due to some tweaking I need do on the remote, but has anyone else noticed that the remote is sometimes unresponsive?


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## ARogan

I'm using the 240c with my harmony xbox 360 remote and it's been working fine. No miss fires.


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## bobbyg1983

I've been using the 240c for about a month now with my motorola dvr set to 1080i, x360, ps2, cub, and 480p dvd player with great results. Replaced the pre-remote pelican with this guy and I've been quite happy with the picture quality... no degredation to speak of. (tried it on both my 720p samsung LCD and 1080i toshiba RP hdtv)


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## DanGraney

Okay, here's a weird issue with the Joytech: anytime we play a PS2 game (component cables and digital optical) the picture keeps dropping out. Happened in Guitar Hero and NBA Street 2. The weird thing is, if we pause, there is not flicker. As soon as we start to play, the picture begins to flicker. Anybody else experience this?


After further investigation, it seems to be doing it with the GameCube as well... it's like the screen goes black, then comes back on. I bought this unit to replace the original Pelican Pro (which had pretty bad interference, though this never happened with the Pelican).


I contacted Joytech... their email address, anyway, as they don't have a US support number, so we shall see.


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## davidhoenig

Try looking at the Zektor switches. I use one for PS2/Xbox/GC and it works wonderfully. I have the HDS4 model which is being replaced by a newer model HDS4.1.

http://www.zektor.com/products/index.html


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## tradewinds

I still think the Joytech 240C is a better choice and has a lot more capability for less than half the cost of the zekor. Not sure why some are having issues with game consoles with it, possibly check to see if there is a way to de-activate the compensation feature for low quality signal and see if that does not solve the problem. I use it through a UPS (not the passive one) to ensure consistent power and do not have issues.


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## DanGraney




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tradewinds* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I still think the Joytech 240C is a better choice and has a lot more capability for less than half the cost of the zekor. Not sure why some are having issues with game consoles with it, possibly check to see if there is a way to de-activate the compensation feature for low quality signal and see if that does not solve the problem. I use it through a UPS (not the passive one) to ensure consistent power and do not have issues.



Believe me, I was really impressed with the Joytech, but it just wasn't meant to be... the Cube and PS2 were both unplayable using the component cables. I have contacted Joytech, and they are looking into it, but for now, it's disconnected and I'm running the games through my Pioneer 1015 (the PS2 is now hooked up s-video-BOO-but that will get bumped to HDMI whenever the PS3 comes out... which is somewhere between now and sometime in the future)


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## tradewinds

It's funny since Joytech is a gaming company and actually produced this for gaming consoles and rather the market for it has been A/V - home theater type uses (which it works excellent with - especially with the Ethernet connections).


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## bob1001

Has anybody tried the Audio Research AR 5000 switcher, and if so, does it do coaxial audio? how does HD look on it?


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## cavalry12

I just came back from BestBuy and they have a component selector, made by Psyclone, which they just received a week ago. They have it priced at $99. It switches optical, component, S-video, composite as well as includes a four port ethernet switch. It comes in silver and includes a thin remote control. The details on the outside of the box weren't too descriptive but it did state to include circuitry to eliminate noise and interference. It also has an illuminated front display that is programmable.


Just by looking at the picture, the build quality and aesthetics looked quite exceptional. I'm very tempted to go back and give it a shot.


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## timbreb

I just picked up the psyclone last night. Didn't have time to install it but the initial impression is that is will be a good addition. The only thing that I wish is that it had was coaxial audio on the switch. I guess I could use the video portion but am not sure if there are circuts in there that are optimized for video instead of audio.


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## cavalry12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *timbreb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just picked up the psyclone last night. Didn't have time to install it but the initial impression is that is will be a good addition. The only thing that I wish is that it had was coaxial audio on the switch. I guess I could use the video portion but am not sure if there are circuts in there that are optimized for video instead of audio.



Post a review after you install it. It would be nice to know how it stacks up against the rest of them. Thanks


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## kiun

btw, the psycone unit only accepts 5 input


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## thelostone

I was just at best buy and looked hard at the psyclone. It had four inputs only, one output. It did look well put together but I did not buy it because of the remote. The remote did not have enough buttons, ie it looked like you could not remotely select which input...only scroll through them. That will not work with my harmony, it need discrete codes. I think one of the local bestbuys has the 240c, I will try to get that one or try to get a pelican 2.0 that has all inputs working correctly.


I wonder if all these 100 dollar switches are based on the same chipset, they all seem to look that same and have the same limits...4 optical, no coax...and they all started showing up recently.


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## tradewinds

The 240C has discrete codes and 7 inputs.


----------



## swflbatth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thelostone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was just at best buy and looked hard at the psyclone. It had four inputs only, one output. It did look well put together but I did not buy it because of the remote. The remote did not have enough buttons, ie it looked like you could not remotely select which input...only scroll through them. That will not work with my harmony, it need discrete codes. I think one of the local bestbuys has the 240c, I will try to get that one or try to get a pelican 2.0 that has all inputs working correctly.
> 
> 
> I wonder if all these 100 dollar switches are based on the same chipset, they all seem to look that same and have the same limits...4 optical, no coax...and they all started showing up recently.



Actually, the Psyclone works with my 880 Harmony just fine. The harmony will remember what input was last selected, and will scroll through them for you to get to the correct input. So far using DVD, xbox 360, and HDTV, the picture/sound has been very clean. Much improved from when I had it being switched through my Yamaha 5790, with no noticeable distortion. Psyclone has seemingly made a quality product.


----------



## thelostone

I still might go for it, but at 100 there are others I think I will try first. Thanks for the info though. I think it is based on the same hardware as the upcoming joytech, that means there may actually be discrete we can get from that model.


----------



## Rotag_FU

You probably have seen that some are having issues with their GameCube or PS2 and the Joytech 240C resulting in sporadic blank/black screens. The speculation was that this was strictly related to certain game consoles. Interestingly, it appears (to me at least) to be related to the resolution.


I hooked up my Charter Moxi box, GameCube, and Xbox 360 into the Joytech 240C and all with component cables that were known to work just fine with my 60" LCD projection Sony Wega HDTV. Interestingly my Xbox 360 signal always looked perfect but sometimes my GameCube and Charter Moxi signals would result in this sporadic momentary black screen screen.


Eventually, I realized that my Moxi box never had the sporadic effect when I was watching an HD program but would when I was watching regular programming. I realized that this was because I had configured the DVR to be able to select between outputs in 480P, 720P, and 1080i so when I was watching a high-def channel it was outputting 720p or 1080i and had no problem. When it was sending a regular def channel, the Moxi DVR would output in 480P (which is closest to the normal 480i) and I would occasionally have problems. I reconfigured the Moxi box so that it would not output in 480P and instead do the upconversion itself to 720p or 1080i (I'd rather have the TV do it, but oh well) and I have not had a single problem with the Moxi Box since.


Unfortunately, my GameCube does not have the option to output in a higher resolution so I have to bypass the Joytech switch altogether and connect directly to the TV (although I do use it for audio) to prevent the black screen effect.


The weird thing that I don't understand is why the Joytech switch would have problems with a lower resolution signal, but have no problems with a higher resolution signal. Still, I can repeatedly prove this phenomenon experimentally and it does seem to explain why others have reported the PS2 and GameCube have occasional blank/black screens with component cables.


Since it sounds like many have not run into this issue, I'm guessing they are either not using the Joytech to switch 480p signals with component cables (perhaps it works fine with S-Video and/or composite) or there is a quality control issue that results in this effect happening on some subset of Joytech 240Cs.


If anyone else can run this test to confirm my results, I'd love to know what happens in their experiments (especially for those that have seen the sporadic black screens).


I'd also love to hear any suggestions on what I could try to fix this problem.


----------



## tradewinds

No problems whosoever with 240C. Use it at all resolutions. Mostly 480i and 1080i


----------



## boxx

I bought my Joytech 240c from walmart. Its ok in 480p and 1080i. There is signal loss when passing through the switch if you compare it to a direct signal. It has really bad ghosts in 720p. I tried it on my xbox 360 and my SA 4200HD. Its a great value at $89.00. 7 inputs with ethernet support. Has any one run into this? I was thinking of returning it.


Has any one tried the Psyclone?


----------



## mattwz

I bought the Psyclone model about a week ago, and it has been working great. I haven't noticed any signal loss or distortion running at 720P or 480P. I haven't tried it at 1080i, since the native resolution of my display is 720P.


I bought the Joytech model around a month ago, but had to return it because the picture quality was terrible at 720P. After reading some posts here, I thought it might have just been a defective unit. So I picked up another one, this time in silver (first one was in black), but still ended up with the same problem.


*Pros of the Psyclone:*

No visible picture quality loss, looks crystal clear at 720P

Display backlight says on all the time (might be a con for some)

The blue glow around the buttons looks cool

Optical audio input for all 4 inputs (I think the Joytech had optical inputs only for the first 3, please correct me if I'm wrong)

*Cons of the Psyclone:*

No front inputs

Source selection is only up/down, (not a big problem for me)

Remote is very small, easy to misplace


*Pros of the Joytech:*

More inputs

Cables included (they looked pretty cheap though)

RF output (didn't matter for me, since I bought it for HD)

*Cons of the Joytech:*

Terrible Picture quality at 720P (ghosting, looked washed out) (might be better at different resolutions)

Backlight only stays on for a few seconds



From my experiences, the Psyclone is much better than the Joytech. The only thing I'd like to see is automatic source selection.


- Matt


----------



## ARogan

Man the psyclone sounds great expect for the lack of two freakin buttons. Does it cost that much to add 2 more buttons for discrete remote IR codes?


I use Joytech 240c with component cables on original xbox. I finished Black (8 hrs) at 480p and not a single issue with blank screen. I still think it's a combination of TV and the joytech. I'm using a samsung 409d.


Oh and for the record the joytech has 4 optical inputs.


----------



## boxx

I returned the Joytech and picked up a Psyclone this evening. My initial impression is great. Great build quality and the picture in 720p and 1080i are fantastic. No distortion or signal loss at all. The remote is a bummer, I wish it had discrete controls. I would recommend this product.


----------



## mattwz

After taking a closer look today at the picture quality on the Psyclone, I've noticed a few things. On darker screens, you can notice horizontal scrolling lines. On solid color screens you can notice faint vertical lines across the whole screen. It's harder to notice if you're not looking for these problems from a distance. But the horizontal scrolling lines were really noticeable at the intro credits to a few movies I watched.


- Matt


----------



## swflbatth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mattwz* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> After taking a closer look today at the picture quality on the Psyclone, I've noticed a few things. On darker screens, you can notice horizontal scrolling lines. On solid color screens you can notice faint vertical lines across the whole screen. It's harder to notice if you're not looking for these problems from a distance. But the horizontal scrolling lines were really noticeable at the intro credits to a few movies I watched.
> 
> 
> - Matt



Yes I noticed this as well. After watching some regular tv for about 20 minutes, it started getting very apparent. The lines were fairly think with a purplish hint to them. They started driving me crazy, and I noted that they were present after this on all of my components. I tried fiddling with the wiring, moving things around, etc. but nothing short of cirvumventing the switch fixed the problem. So I returned it to BB today and got a refund.


----------



## tradewinds

I bought the psyclone too to check it out but returned it and kept the 240C Joytech. Much more bang for the buck and no problems whatsoever for my AV stuff.


----------



## Tonyclark

The psyclone seems to be much better than the joytech to me. In fact, in the joytech manual it says you have to turn off all other sources that aren't being used. This may have something to do with the signal degradation. It's just not convenient to turn off all my other AV equipment. Also, I'm not seeing the purple lines on my psyclone model. For the record, I'm running at 1080i.


----------



## PhoenixCoyote

I picked up the Psyclone at Best Buy this weekend when I bought my Xbox 360. I too was seeing the horizontal scrolling line and distortion on all components I had plugged into the unit. I was about to take it back to Best Buy for a refund. But I took a look at the manual and realized I had messed up on my component video connections. I wrongly assumed the bottom three inputs for each device on the Psyclone were the component video Y, B and R inputs. The first two inputs on the bottom row are component R and B. The rightmost bottom input is one of the analog audio inputs. Component Y is the leftmost input on the top row. When I first hooked up my dvd recorder, xbox 360 and Roku HD1000 to the Psyclone I had the component Y for each plugged into the analog audio jacks. No wonder I was seeing interference! Once I had everything correctly hooked up the horizontal scrolling lines and distortion went away.


----------



## daphatty

I, too, bought the Psyclone. I was fortunate enough to stumble across one in a Baltimore Best Buy. It's a perfect A/V switch box. I haven't noticed any signal degradation thus far.


Unfortunately, the Psyclone not a perfect network switch. I discovered that the network connection of my Xbox 360 dropped when I accidentally switched the source. I found this very frustrating since I was in the middle of downloading a rather large game demo (thank goodness for Resume Download). You'd think that the network portion would stay active regardless of which source is being viewed but alas, this was not the case. I'd recommend this switchbox to every but would warn them of this small caveat.


----------



## noahf

Another happy Psyclone owner here. I have not noticed any of the lines others have observed. I have my projector at about 92 inches diagonal, and scrutinizing the image I can't see any noticeable imperfections other than those inherent in the analog signal transfer. As far as I can tell, 1080i, 720p, 480p and 480i (gamecube through composite, lol) signals look great. My only complaints are minor: the remote didn't come with a battery, and you can't turn off or dim the lcd screen (as mattwz pointed out, this is subjective). Also, the network switching issue could bother some people. Other than that, I highly recommend it. It's a pretty piece of hardware as well, which never hurts...


----------



## Tonyclark

I just upgraded my game console cables with the psyclone products and I'm pretty sure I can see the difference. The cables are 12 feet long which was a nice to know since I have a long run to my TV. The design of these things are really unique and very cool. I'm not sure if it was worth the $50 but I'm happy.

In terms of the selector, I also noticed the ethernet switch issue, but it's not a problem for me as I only need to be connected when I'm looking at that particular source. I guess a hub would have been nice though.


----------



## timbreb

I unboxed the psyclone tonight for the first time. Thought I should try it out before I run out of time to return it. Nice product except for one thing. NO DISCRETE CODES. That sealed it's fate before it even got going. With my setup I am running a TSU3000 to control the whole room. It has to be able to select an input with a discrete.


Guess this has to go back and I will be spending money on a better autoswitch


bummer


----------



## Luxo

I picked up a Psyclone today from BB, but it didn't come with a manual. I can't for the life of me figure out how to customize the names of the four sources. Can someone give me a hand here? I can get the cursor underneath the 'I' in Input using the edit button, but I can't figure out how to scroll through the alphabet. I feel like a complete noob.


thanks--

jeremy


----------



## noahf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Luxo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I picked up a Psyclone today from BB, but it didn't come with a manual. I can't for the life of me figure out how to customize the names of the four sources. Can someone give me a hand here? I can get the cursor underneath the 'I' in Input using the edit button, but I can't figure out how to scroll through the alphabet. I feel like a complete noob.
> 
> 
> thanks--
> 
> jeremy



Jeremy--

I had the same problem, until I realized that the little button (I think it's "input") is also a joystick-type... you can move it up/down/right/left as well as pushing it in. I hope this helps!


----------



## noahf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *timbreb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I unboxed the psyclone tonight for the first time. Thought I should try it out before I run out of time to return it. Nice product except for one thing. NO DISCRETE CODES. That sealed it's fate before it even got going. With my setup I am running a TSU3000 to control the whole room. It has to be able to select an input with a discrete.
> 
> 
> Guess this has to go back and I will be spending money on a better autoswitch
> 
> 
> bummer



Earlier in this thread, someone mentioned the harmony series being able to remember the state and just automatically select a certain input. I know this is not the same as discrete codes, but functionally, maybe it is workable if the TSU3000 has programmable macros? just a thought.


----------



## timbreb

It went back today. Now I am on the search for a switch with at least 4 inputs. I don't care about network, just need a good componet switch with eiter digital or coax audio.


----------



## curtis104




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *timbreb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> It went back today. Now I am on the search for a switch with at least 4 inputs. I don't care about network, just need a good componet switch with eiter digital or coax audio.



I have a Radio Shack Component Selector. It works great for me. it has 4 Component Inputs with 4 Coax and Stereo Inputs. It has Dual Component Output that I run to my LCD and Infocus Projector. You can also change it with a learning remote. Try it out. If you don't like it you can always return it.


----------



## timbreb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *curtis104* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have a Radio Shack Component Selector. It works great for me. it has 4 Component Inputs with 4 Coax and Stereo Inputs. It has Dual Component Output that I run to my LCD and Infocus Projector. You can also change it with a learning remote. Try it out. If you don't like it you can always return it.



have you noticed any signal loss through the switch? and do you know if they make one with optical audio?


----------



## scuba_fan

I found a switch at gamestop made by Intec that has four component HD inputs, three of which support Optical DigAudio. Its $60 at GameStop and $50 at Walmart[dot]com


I don't know about the quality but it looks a lot like the new Joytech switch still to be released.


----------



## tradewinds

Here is someone's (take it for what it's worth) comparison:
http://www.digitalhomecanada.com/for...ad.php?t=40234


----------



## Factor VIII

I recently purchased the Psyclone PSC01 at Best Buy based exclusively on research from this forum. (Not much else about it on the web.) I am running a Sony S-Master, an Xbox 360, and an Xbox (for the Kids) through the switch via S-Video to an InFocus 4500 projector. My only complaint was that I could not; for the life of me, program the friggen LCL display. Thanks to noahf for preserving what few hairs remain on my already heavily deforested head! You are the MAN!


----------



## BuGsArEtAsTy

I had a look at the various threads and the Joytech 240C doesn't seem to cut the mustard. Image quality issues and issues with progressive sources for some people.


No I'm considering the Audio Authority 1154A. Anyone here used that? Also, there's the Zektor HDS4.1 but I can't find it for sale in Canada.


I don't see the Psyclone PSC01 available here in Canada anywhere. The Best Buy Canada website doesn't list it either.


----------



## Luxo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *noahf* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Jeremy--
> 
> I had the same problem, until I realized that the little button (I think it's "input") is also a joystick-type... you can move it up/down/right/left as well as pushing it in. I hope this helps!



That did it! Thanks, mate.


----------



## noahf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Factor VIII* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I recently purchased the Psyclone PSC01 at Best Buy based exclusively on research from this forum. (Not much else about it on the web.) I am running a Sony S-Master, an Xbox 360, and an Xbox (for the Kids) through the switch via S-Video to an InFocus 4500 projector. My only complaint was that I could not; for the life of me, program the friggen LCL display. Thanks to noahf for preserving what few hairs remain on my already heavily deforested head! You are the MAN!





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Luxo* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That did it! Thanks, mate.



Glad I could help (and delay chromedomia). That was driving me crazy too until I accidentally bumped the "edit" (not "input" as i claimed earlier) button to the side.


Hooray for inadvertent do-it-yourself tech support


----------



## thelostone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scuba_fan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I found a switch at gamestop made by Intec that has four component HD inputs, three of which support Optical DigAudio. Its $60 at GameStop and $50 at Walmart[dot]com
> 
> 
> I don't know about the quality but it looks a lot like the new Joytech switch still to be released.



I have seen the intec much cheaper online but have been afraid to try it. I still want to try a 240c and hope the local BB will re-stock it.


----------



## timbreb

I looked at the Audio Authority switch last night. I am not impressed. It looks like a small black box that one would hide. There is no way for it to fit in a rack or even on an equipment shelf with anything else. It's about 8x4x4 with plastic mounting tabs to screw it to a wall.


The entire case is black plastic and feels cheap for the rather high msrp.


According to the directions it will switch automatically between inputs based on how they are connected even if they have to stay on at all times. There is a manual select on the front of the case.


With no remote functionability and such a wierd size and feel I just don't think it is a good fit in most setups.


So on with the hunt. I'm afraid that I am running out of options. I really need to find a Joytech in the area or I need to stop at a gaming store and see if they have the switch mentioned eariler.


----------



## tradewinds

Why don't you get it from Walmart online?
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=4244418


----------



## audvid

I too am trying to buy a component switch.


Has anyone compared the zektor Vs joytech etc.? Has anyone noticed a difference in picture quality across these various switches?


I use a 9" CRT at 95" width. I am concerned that there might be a degradation of picture quality, if I buy the wrong switch. Joytech looks very interesting because of the price. Zektor costs a bit more than I wish to spend (I would prefer to be under $200).


Any further suggestions and comments would be welcome.



Thank you.


----------



## gwsmith




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *timbreb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I looked at the Audio Authority switch last night. I am not impressed. It looks like a small black box that one would hide. There is no way for it to fit in a rack or even on an equipment shelf with anything else. It's about 8x4x4 with plastic mounting tabs to screw it to a wall.
> 
> 
> The entire case is black plastic and feels cheap for the rather high msrp.
> 
> 
> According to the directions it will switch automatically between inputs based on how they are connected even if they have to stay on at all times. There is a manual select on the front of the case.
> 
> 
> With no remote functionability and such a wierd size and feel I just don't think it is a good fit in most setups.
> 
> 
> So on with the hunt. I'm afraid that I am running out of options. I really need to find a Joytech in the area or I need to stop at a gaming store and see if they have the switch mentioned eariler.



Ironically, I've just received my AA digital audio switcher via FedEx a few minutes ago. I do my video switching via the TV inputs.


I can confirm that this is indeed a small black plastic box....looks very cheap for the $$....and the display consists of five very bright and annoying LED's on the front. And worst of all....it's got an external power supply the size of a brick!










But...I hooked it up, and it works! So far, that is. I thought I had made a mistake in ordering it because unlike your information, I was informed after I placed the order that the auto select feature would not work with devices that were "always on", like my two HD-DVR's....but so far it looks like it's able to select the proper device.


I have to pick up a couple more optical patch cables this evening so I can con properly connect everything, and I'll report back on the final results. If all goes well I'll be happy, but if not I've got an expensive manual switch.


----------



## timbreb

Does anyone know the return policy for walmart online? I don't want to get this thing and not be able to return it if it won't work.


I guess on this one my question will be if the remote has discrete codes. I have to be able to remotely select a certain input.


----------



## tradewinds

not sure of wally's return policy online. Hopefully you can take it to one of their stores. They pride themselves on being fully integrated.


Anyway, if this is the 240C, then it does have discrete codes.


----------



## johnbe




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tradewinds* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> not sure of wally's return policy online. Hopefully you can take it to one of their stores. They pride themselves on being fully integrated.
> 
> 
> Anyway, if this is the 240C, then it does have discrete codes.



I have bought their stuff online and taken it back to the store with no problem. They did not even have the item in stock (at the store) so that should not be a problem either. Just take your invoice with you.


----------



## gwsmith




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gwsmith* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ironically, I've just received my AA digital audio switcher via FedEx a few minutes ago. I do my video switching via the TV inputs.
> 
> 
> I can confirm that this is indeed a small black plastic box....looks very cheap for the $$....and the display consists of five very bright and annoying LED's on the front. And worst of all....it's got an external power supply the size of a brick!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But...I hooked it up, and it works! So far, that is. I thought I had made a mistake in ordering it because unlike your information, I was informed after I placed the order that the auto select feature would not work with devices that were "always on", like my two HD-DVR's....but so far it looks like it's able to select the proper device.
> 
> 
> I have to pick up a couple more optical patch cables this evening so I can con properly connect everything, and I'll report back on the final results. If all goes well I'll be happy, but if not I've got an expensive manual switch.



Well, I'm happy! This cheap looking switch does it's job! I've got OTA TV digital audio, two HD-DVR's and a DVD player all connected to this switch with digital audio out to my A/V receiver. The switch automatically selects the device that's outputting an audio signal, and passes that signal. If two or more devices are outputting at the same time, the switch will indicate with an LED that the audio signal is present, and will select the one that user has prioritized. Prioritizing is accomplished by the order in which the connections of the devices are made to the switch, 1 through 4. If you want to hear the device with a lower priority you simply turn off (place on standby) the higher priority device, or if for some reason you don't want to turn off a device, you can select with the manual mode.


This is the Audio Authority model 1177....a rather tiny box (5-1/2"x4"x2")....not cheap but apparently an effective solution. I wonder if the similar models that incorporate video switching work as well....


----------



## cjchip

Hey all,

My new Panasonic Plasm 42" has 2 component inputs. One is dedicated to my 360 and the other will handle the DVD player, PS2 and XBOX all using component cables trhough some sort of switcher. The gamecube will be using S-video as that is the cheapest solution for a rarely used console and probably won't use the switcher.


I am looking for a good component selector under $100 (the cost of the new set and cables is putting a strain on my domestic bliss). Since my 360 has the only 1080i output and will use it's own input and the rest of the consoles and dvd only put out 480 to 720, is the Pelican Pro 2.0 a good choice to get started with? I've read some posts regarding losing some PQ with the 360 through the Pro 2.0 but since everything running through the switcher will be between 480 and 720, will I be safe to use the Pelican and not see PQ degradation?


Thanks!


----------



## noahf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cjchip* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> My new Panasonic Plasm 42" has 2 component inputs. One is dedicated to my 360 and the other will handle the DVD player, PS2 and XBOX all using component cables trhough some sort of switcher. The gamecube will be using S-video as that is the cheapest solution for a rarely used console and probably won't use the switcher.
> 
> 
> I am looking for a good component selector under $100 (the cost of the new set and cables is putting a strain on my domestic bliss). Since my 360 has the only 1080i output and will use it's own input and the rest of the consoles and dvd only put out 480 to 720, is the Pelican Pro 2.0 a good choice to get started with? I've read some posts regarding losing some PQ with the 360 through the Pro 2.0 but since everything running through the switcher will be between 480 and 720, will I be safe to use the Pelican and not see PQ degradation?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



cjchip,

Once again, and based on my experience, I say go with the psyclone from BB if you can. I have the following set up through it, connected to a 720p projector:

input 1: hdtv (1080i signal)

input 2: dvd (720p upconverting player--samsung hd850 w/ remote hack)

input 3: xbox (720p on some games, 480p on most)

input 4: ps2 through component and optical, gamecube through analog audio and s-video


I have since moved my hdtv and dvd to hdmi, but when I was using the psyclone, I could not discern any difference between connection directly to the display and connection using the psyclone (read: no discernable signal loss for a 1080i device). I have had no negative experiences with this device. The only reason I would see not to get this device is that you absolutely NEED discrete codes (like timbreb). Some people reported different signal abnormalities with the psyclone, but I have not seen ANY of these. Believe me, I looked hard, and would have returned the unit at the first sight of anything wrong with the signal.


So I can't speak for the 2.0, but I was in your same situation a couple weeks ago and am totally satisfied with the psyclone. Also, BB's 30-day return policy is very handy just in case you are one of the (apparent) minority that sees signal weirdness.


just my 2 cents...


----------



## cjchip

Thanks!


----------



## audvid




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *noahf* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> .... totally satisfied with the psyclone. Also, BB's 30-day return policy ...just my 2 cents...



I could not find anything under psyclone at bestbuy.com. Can you please give more info?


----------



## timbreb

The Psyclone is an in store only item. It is also hit and miss. If you have more than one BB in the area go the the largest one that you can.


----------



## audvid




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *timbreb* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Psyclone is an in store only item. It is also hit and miss. If you have more than one BB in the area go the the largest one that you can.



can you give me a model number? I can try and find it on the web.


----------



## Prelude_Zen

I think this is the one their talking about


/site/olspage.jsp;jsessionid=HC3KMRMLFZBTJKC4D3KFAFY?skuId=7660578&type=product&productCategoryId=pcmcat58300050022&id=1134701087687


Paste that in after xxx.bestbuy.xxx. Its the Psyclone Source Selector PSC01


Someone who has it can confirm. I actually searched for psyclone on BB's site, and didn't find it - so I went to google which found it on their site.


Seems Google's Search engine > BB's


Looks pretty nice, think I may go get one if I can find a store with them in stock. Thanks for the heads up on this stuff guys


----------



## audvid

Psyclone Source Selector PSC01 in google search got me the link. Thanks.


I could not decipher exactly what its inputs are. Can some one clarify as to exactly what its input connections are? I read that it has four inputs, including component, composite etc. Do all four inputs have component input capability?


What is the rated bandwidth of its video switching?


----------



## noahf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audvid* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Can some one clarify as to exactly what its input connections are? I read that it has four inputs, including component, composite etc. Do all four inputs have component input capability?



All 4 inputs (and the output) are identical, and have the following:

component video

optical audio

ethernet (not like a router, only selected ethernet gets connection)

s-video

composite Audio/Video


Esentially, you could hook up 4 HD sources and 4 SD sources simultaneously (see my previous post).


One thing to note: If you are running a composite signal TO the box, you must also run it FROM the box to the display. Meaning I don't believe there is any signal up"conversion" (composite to component or s-video, etc). I don't know if this is a common feature, but I wasn't expecting it anyway.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audvid* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> What is the rated bandwidth of its video switching?



I have no idea. I threw away the nigh worthless instruction manual and it does not say on the box. I'm also not sure what video bandwidth even means...


----------



## noahf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *noahf* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm also not sure what video bandwidth even means...



Now I know... gotta love the internet.


----------



## twistedsymphony

I'd like to give one for FOR the Psyclone and one vote AGAINST the Pelican Pro 2.0


I bought a Pelican Pro 2.0 (also sold under the "SCORE" brand name) a couple of weeks ago from shop4tech's website.


The interference introduced into the picture was awful. I got a major ghost effect on everything and the whole signal was abnormally bright, enough so that the image was "burnt" to the point I couldn't compensate with my projector's controls. I ended up sending it back for that. (shipping + 15% restocking fee... so beware if you buy from them). Other minor problems I had with it was the case didn't feel very heavy or sold. it was heavy enough to keep itself in place but the metal case flexed and felt pretty cheap (not as cheap feeling as the plastic units I've tried though). It only offered digital audio on the first 3 inputs. It also only had 2 ethernet inputs (which had to be switched separately from the AV). The remote is rather clunky and felt like one of the old clickers from the 80s. Also the input names had to be selected from a pre-programed list, a list which didn't include some of the devices I wanted to use (Dreamcast?).


I was pretty disappointed with it and the signal problems were so bad I turned it off after about 20 minutes and didn't even want to look at my home theater for a few hours.


I ordered a used Audio Authority 1154a on eBay and the very next day the Psyclone unit at Best Buy caught my eye. I figured I'd buy it because I was unsure about the AA and I could either return the Psyclone or resell the AA if I didn't like them. The Psyclone unit works WONDERFULLY, The signal looks fantastic and even under close scrutinizing I couldn't see any difference between the signal going through the switch or the signal without the switch using straight through gold connectors. It has only 4 inputs but all of them offer optical and Ethernet (though I don't use Ethernet) The build quality of the unit AND the remote is far far superior to that of the Pelican unit and the AA unit. My biggest complaint is the same as the others, no discrete remote codes. Though, I have some friends who are into JP1 remote-programing so I'm going to see if the codes exist but just arn't on the included remote. I should also note that the Psyclone has a built in power supply, so no wall wort, just a regular cable. The only other complaint I have is that it would be nice if it had a "night mode" to turn off the the display and LEDs, but they're not bright enough to really be bothersome (honestly the LEDs on the front of some of my consoles bother me more). The display is also easier to read at sitting distance then the Pelican unit was and the connectors on the back are all Gold plated where the Pelican unit was not.


I got the Audio Authority in yesterday though I haven't yet hooked it up. I'm happy enough with the Psyclone that I might just resell the AA. Also the AA is kind of ugly and doesn't do S-Video (which I'd like for some of the older, non-component capable devices I have.


I should also note that I'm using an Audio Authority Power Cleaner unit (only $40 at Best Buy, definitely worth it if you don't have one) to run all my devices including the switch through. Testing these switches without the power cleaner and there is some added minor visible distortion in the picture with both the Score and the Pelican.


----------



## videostorm

My company offers several component switches and matrix switches you may be interested in. The main differences from the ones you are discussing here are tested/rated bandwidth and dual outputs for multiple displays.

http://www.video-storm.com/products.asp?cat=2


----------



## tradewinds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *videostorm* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> My company offers several component switches and matrix switches you may be interested in. The main differences from the ones you are discussing here are tested/rated bandwidth and dual outputs for multiple displays.
> 
> http://www.video-storm.com/products.asp?cat=2



Bloody hell!! those things are expensive!! Most be targeted to a different market


----------



## thelostone

The joytech 360 center is in stock at buy.com. I blindly ordered because I really need a switch. Will report back how/if it works. I hope the delay was them making sure it works right...will see. It ended up being cheaper than the pysclone. Should get it next week if it actually is in stock.


----------



## cavalry12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thelostone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The joytech 360 center is in stock at buy.com. I blindly ordered because I really need a switch. Will report back how/if it works. I hope the delay was them making sure it works right...will see. It ended up being cheaper than the pysclone. Should get it next week if it actually is in stock.



You beat me to it. I just received the in stock notification email. Let us know how it turns out. I am torn between this and the Psyclone. Thanks


----------



## gwsmith




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tradewinds* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Bloody hell!! those things are expensive!! Most be targeted to a different market



The CSM42 looks pretty good to me....have you seen anything with these specs and functionality that's cheaper?


----------



## thelostone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cavalry12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> You beat me to it. I just received the in stock notification email. Let us know how it turns out. I am torn between this and the Psyclone. Thanks



No problem. The thing that I am most interested in is the direct to 360 connection...that could be really neat if it leaves all the component in's alone. Buy.com ships fast, should be early next week.


----------



## cavalry12




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thelostone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> No problem. The thing that I am most interested in is the direct to 360 connection...that could be really neat if it leaves all the component in's alone. Buy.com ships fast, should be early next week.



Direct 360 connection? How does it work? That would be awesome if it turns out to be useful.


----------



## curtis104




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gwsmith* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The CSM42 looks pretty good to me....have you seen anything with these specs and functionality that's cheaper?



Check out Radio Shack. I use a component selector they have that has 4 Component Inputs, Dual Component Output, 4 Coax and 4 Stereo Inputs. At a very good price.


----------



## tradewinds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gwsmith* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The CSM42 looks pretty good to me....have you seen anything with these specs and functionality that's cheaper?



Of course, If you do not need two outputs (who does anyway), the Joytech 240C has this beat. It has 7 inputs, Digital Optical and Ethernet. The CSM42 is just plain vinilla with dual outs and optical. The CSM42 is seriously overprice for analog video especially with DVI and HDMI dominant these days.


----------



## curtis104




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tradewinds* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Of course, If you do not need two outputs (who does anyway), the Joytech 240C has this beat. It has 7 inputs, Digital Optical and Ethernet. The CSM42 is just plain vinilla with dual outs and optical. The CSM42 is seriously overprice for analog video especially with DVI and HDMI dominant these days.



Some of us with Front Projectors and and HDTV for daytime use has the need for dual outputs.


----------



## tradewinds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *curtis104* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Some of us with Front Projectors and and HDTV for daytime use has the need for dual outputs.



In that case you should be using a dual out HDMI switch if you have HDTV display. Why go analog after investing in a HDTV display?


----------



## thelostone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cavalry12* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Direct 360 connection? How does it work? That would be awesome if it turns out to be useful.



It looks like the first input, all the way on the left, has a 360 video input (the trapazoidial thing). My asumption is there is a short cable that goes from here to the 360 and the selector then sends out the signal on the component inputs. If it comes with the needed cable I will give it a shot, if not...not really going to spend more as the current cable on the 360 works fine for me.


----------



## thelostone

Jumped the gun, Buy.com put me on back-order. I bet their warehouses never actually got a shipment. Back to waiting.


----------



## noahf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tradewinds* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In that case you should be using a dual out HDMI switch if you have HDTV display. Why go analog after investing in a HDTV display?



Are you implying that there is a device that takes component video input(s) and has HDMI output(s)? If so, can you provide more info or a link?


----------



## tradewinds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *noahf* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are you implying that there is a device that takes component video input(s) and has HDMI output(s)? If so, can you provide more info or a link?



On another thread we had this discussion. You can search for it. The link below will take component to DVI. You then either need a DVI to HDMI adaptor or a DVI female to HDMI male cable. They are all very cheap and this protects you investment for HDMI in the future.
Component -> DVI 


Note: Even though it states for ATI cards, it should work for your regular AV components.


Here are the HDMI switches . These prices cannot be beat. Even their 5x4 is just a bit more than the component stuff from Videostorm.


BTW - Monoprice.com is a sponsor of the avsforum.


----------



## gwsmith




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tradewinds* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> .... URL= http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&style=]HDMI switches[/url] . These prices cannot be beat. Even their 5x4 is just a bit more than the component stuff from Videostorm.
> 
> 
> BTW - Monoprice.com is a sponsor of the avsforum.



From the info I see these are unrated, untested, mass-produced generic black boxes. I'm in the market for an HDMI switch, but....anyone have an experience with these?


----------



## tradewinds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gwsmith* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> From the info I see these are unrated, untested, mass-produced generic black boxes. I'm in the market for an HDMI switch, but....anyone have an experience with these?



I think you can read the detailed technical reviews for yourself but you seem bent on spending bigger bucks for no additional gain, therefore you can certainly go ahead. Read the threads also for those that have offered opinions on these items.


Monoprice.com products have been first class and have be on par with almost all the so called higher end products out there that gets your dough with marketing hype.


----------



## gwsmith




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tradewinds* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I think you can read the detailed technical reviews for yourself but you seem bent on spending bigger bucks for no additional gain, therefore you can certainly go ahead. Read the threads also for those that have offered opinions on these items.
> 
> 
> Monoprice.com products have been first class and have be on par with almost all the so called higher end products out there that gets your dough with marketing hype.



Thanks for the link....and if you don't mind I'll be the judge of any additional gain I get by spending bigger bucks, but thanks for your permission to do so. I'm not the idiot you seem to take me for, and I've been around the track enough times to know not to buy because of "marketing hype"....but I don't buy from companies I know nothing about, and I don't look for cheap, unproven products.


Maybe with your help and others here I'll learn something.


----------



## tradewinds

Let's hope so. As I stated, Monoprice.com is a site sponsor of avsforum and there is absolutely no one in these forums I have seen so far who has had a bad experience or was disappointed with their products, myself included. Their product quality is NOT cheap and is NOT unproven. Who should it be proven by? Maybe you should do yourself a favor and take a look at this site's sponsors before venturing to look elsewhere


----------



## gwsmith




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tradewinds* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Let's hope so. As I stated, Monoprice.com is a site sponsor of avsforum and there is absolutely no one in these forums I have seen so far who has had a bad experience or was disappointed with their products, myself included. Their product quality is NOT cheap and is NOT unproven. Who should it be proven by? Maybe you should do yourself a favor and take a look at this site's sponsors before venturing to look elsewhere



Maybe you should do everyone a favor and stop reading words into others' posts that aren't there....I never implied nor mentioned monoprice or any other vendor when I said I didn't buy cheap or unproven products. Who do you think they should be proven by? Do I have to answer that question for you?


Give it a rest would you? I don't need any more of your advice or your condescending attitude.


----------



## curtis104




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tradewinds* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In that case you should be using a dual out HDMI switch if you have HDTV display. Why go analog after investing in a HDTV display?



In my experience, the PQ of HDMI is not always better than Component. The cost I paid for this Component Selector is probably 1/4 the cost of HDMI switch or at least 1/3 the cost, and I do shop at Monoprice.com. Component is more widely used right now and will possibly continue to be more widely used in the next 3 years. I have a HP LC2600N and Infocus 4805. Buying a HDMI switch then having to buy a bunch of adapters will drive up the cost is not worth the cost of future proofing right now. And the one adapter you were speaking of is DVI -> Component not Component -> DVI.


----------



## tradewinds

Same here gwsmith. Ungreatful people like yourself really need to leave these forums. Why do you come here when you have already made up your mind? We see many of your kind who comes here to just argue to justify a useless expensive purchase you have made in the past. Please do us a favor and not waste our time.


----------



## tradewinds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *curtis104* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> In my experience, the PQ of HDMI is not always better than Component. The cost I paid for this Component Selector is probably 1/4 the cost of HDMI switch or at least 1/3 the cost, and I do shop at Monoprice.com. Component is more widely used right now and will possibly continue to be more widely used in the next 3 years. I have a HP LC2600N and Infocus 4805. Buying a HDMI switch then having to buy a bunch of adapters will drive up the cost is not worth the cost of future proofing right now. And the one adapter you were speaking of is DVI -> Component not Component -> DVI.



Given that may be true in some cases, the majority of cases you cannot beat a total digital connection. Some manufactures have not implemented there digital specs correctly and hence their components are better but any analog to digital or vice versa will only introduce artifacts that will diminish the PQ. Many of those with a 4805 have gone the Bravo or similar route because the PQ and 1:1 pixel mapping of those players offer a far superior PQ than a component feed even from an OPPO.


I am not sure what your calculations are but some of us have done it and found that moving to HDMI and total digital now has in some cases been the same cost if not cheaper thanks to places like monoprice.com


Maybe component may be around in 3 years, but why give up the exceptional total digital PQ if you can get it today? And you do not need to buy a bunch of adaptors if you have newer equiptment. If your equipment does not support DVI and HDMI, then I agree, maybe you are better off with sticking with component now and investing in switches/selectors for those. Different people, different needs.


----------



## gwsmith




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tradewinds* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Same here gwsmith. Ungreatful people like yourself really need to leave these forums. Why do you come here when you have already made up your mind? We see many of your kind who comes here to just argue to justify a useless expensive purchase you have made in the past. Please do us a favor and not waste our time.



"Ungreatful"?







Believe me, I've seen plenty of "your kind"....the self-appointed know-it-all. Sorry, nobody asked you to waste your time, but obviously you don't have anything better to do but make a fool of yourself.


----------



## tradewinds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gwsmith* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> "Ungreatful"?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Believe me, I've seen plenty of "your kind"....the self-appointed know-it-all. Sorry, nobody asked you to waste your time, but obviously you don't have anything better to do but make a fool of yourself.




gwsmith, your comments are helping no one here and you are not contributing anything whatsoever. PM me about your personal inadequacies or rather don't but do let's stop wasting everyone's time here. Go ahead and buy whatever you want


----------



## gwsmith




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tradewinds* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> gwsmith, your comments are helping no one here and you are not contributing anything whatsoever. PM me about your personal inadequacies or rather don't but do let's stop wasting everyone's time here. Go ahead and buy whatever you want



And your comments are helping who? You can stop wasting time whenever you choose. Lame juvenile....maybe we can chat again when you grow up.


----------



## tradewinds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *gwsmith* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Lame juvenile....maybe we can chat again when you grow up.



Such childishness!! Please return to your low class getto.


----------



## gwsmith




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tradewinds* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Such childishness!! Please return to your low class getto.



My "getto"? I think you've demonstrated who the child is here.


----------



## Dragonfly

Hate to change the subject by not bad-mouthing anyone but have any of you used this switch or know anything about it or the company that makes it?
http://WWW.SMARTHOME.COM/8148.HTML


----------



## chrishicks

does anyone know of any place that I can get a silver Joytech 240 or am I completely out of luck?


EDIT:


ok, I thought I should add a bit of info in case someone would like to recommend a different unit for me to use. all I need is a switcher that will do s-video, analog audio and also have digital audio(optical) switching. I don't need it for component at this time. I was looking at the Joytech as I would be a bit futureproof but it is not a necessity at this point.


----------



## tradewinds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chrishicks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> does anyone know of any place that I can get a silver Joytech 240 or am I completely out of luck?



Seems the latter. Someone just bought mine from me by offering a price I could not refuse so I sold it and upgraded to HDMI.


Not sure more will be made since the new Joytech 360 model is supposedly out. I converted my stuff to use HDMI since monoprice's highly recommeded 5x1 HDMI switch is now available. Good luck!


----------



## bart19

I decided to give it a try, despite some negative reviews.


I hooked it up to my HD set, and on the inputs I connected (via component cables and optical audio):

- Xbox

- HD digital cable box (scientific atlanta)

- DVD player

*RESULTS*

The switch does have discrete buttons for each input, and the remote works fine. Switching between DVD, Xbox (running XBMC in 1080i), and digital cable works great, too.


BUT - I notice a horrible "tearing" effect at the top of the screen when watching any of the 480p channels on cable. This is not a minor effect, it is very distracting, and makes it unwatchable. And it comes and goes, depending on the picture. Brighter scenes (more white) seem to be more likely to tear. I haven't bothered doing any further testing using DVDs, or Xbox games, etc. I'm just going to take it to Wal-mart this weekend and return it.


Also - I did test my cables. And I've read about the link between using the optical audio and the component connections together, but I need both. Oh, well. Looking forward to hearing reviews of the 360 version of the Joytech.


PS - I'm getting real tired of Monoprice "ads".


----------



## tradewinds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bart19* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> PS - I'm getting real tired of Monoprice "ads".



Dude, get a life! We support our alliance members and sponsors around here, especailly since they give us quality products at fair and reasonable prices. Without them you would not be able to share your opinions and reviews or your product experiences.


----------



## chrishicks

I ended up buying the Psyclone at Best Buy yesterday but for some reason through s-video it only outputs in black & white. after I wake up a bit I'm going to try composite and maybe component and see if its the same. I guess I should have tested it before I put it in my rack since it required moving stuff around.


EDIT: I have color through composite. anyone have any idea of what I could check before I take this thing back?


EDIT #2: I hooked up my Comcast box through s-video and I get color through any of the inputs. however when I hook up either of my DTIVOs or my s-vhs vcr I get black & white. I tried switching cables on the working Comcast box to my dtivo but I still ended up with black/white. anyone have any idea of whats going on here?


----------



## chrishicks

can someone possibly give me an idea of what I can do to fix this problem I'm having?


I have the Psyclone switcher and when I try to use s-video all I get is black and white from everything I try(2 different DTIVOs, s-vhs vcr, dvd player) with the exception of my comcast box. that will pass color. I tried using the same cables(new ARs) that worked for the comcast box on everything else but I still got black/white. I have tried multiple cables and get the same results. I have tried the switch connected to the receiver as well as going directly to inputs on my tv and it was the same results every time.


of course the switch works fine for composite but I really don't want to use those.


anyone have any ideas that I could possibly try? any help with this would be greatly appreciated. thanks.


----------



## Ken_V




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chrishicks* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> can someone possibly give me an idea of what I can do to fix this problem I'm having?
> 
> 
> I have the Psyclone switcher and when I try to use s-video all I get is black and white from everything I try(2 different DTIVOs, s-vhs vcr, dvd player) with the exception of my comcast box. that will pass color. I tried using the same cables(new ARs) that worked for the comcast box on everything else but I still got black/white. I have tried multiple cables and get the same results. I have tried the switch connected to the receiver as well as going directly to inputs on my tv and it was the same results every time.
> 
> 
> of course the switch works fine for composite but I really don't want to use those.
> 
> 
> anyone have any ideas that I could possibly try? any help with this would be greatly appreciated. thanks.



Is there a possibility that you may have the output set to different video mode (ie composite vs componenet)? I recently had my PS2 set for component out, but plugged it into a device using the standard ps2 cable with composite connections, THe result was a black and white picture. Just a thought... Check your device output settings.


----------



## chrishicks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ken_V* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Is there a possibility that you may have the output set to different video mode (ie composite vs componenet)? I recently had my PS2 set for component out, but plugged it into a device using the standard ps2 cable with composite connections, THe result was a black and white picture. Just a thought... Check your device output settings.



I switched the output on my dvd player to try it on the switchbox. my 2 DTIVOs and my s-vhs vcr only output composite/s-vhs and there are no different output modes with them. I ended up ordering the Joytech one from Walmart.com that was listed a few pages back so I'll see if that one works better for me. if that one doesn't work I guess I might just be out of luck in regards to a switcher.


----------



## chrishicks

well I got my Joytech and it works just fine. I guess it was just the Psyclone piece that caused my problems.


----------



## bart19

After the 480p "tearing" problem with the Joytech switch, I picked up another switch from the local GameStop. It's labeled:


"Score" System Selector Pro 2.0


Short story - it's the Joytech switch components in a different case (I think). Same features, same problem with 480p signals. Oh, well.


----------



## thelostone

Bad news, the Joytech 360 selector has been pushed back to August, according to their customer service. I think I will take my money and just get a better receiver with HDMI, especially now there are rumors about a 360 hdmi cable.


----------



## ChrisFul

I got the Psychlone switcher yesterday, hooked it up an hour ago and holy cripes what a piece of shiat this hunk of junk is. Immediately i noticed several purpleish lines creeping up my screen on all inputs...xbox360, ps2, and cable box. Avoid this piece of trash like the plague. Im going to try that joytech 240c next and if that doesnt work, ill just have to fork over some $$ for a reciever. Meh.


UPDATE: just got back from the store, returned Psychlone and picked up the Joytech 240C to try that one. ITS EVEN WORSE THAN THE PSYCHLONE. On all of my inputs, it looked like I was watching the screen through a wet paper towel. I guess I should have expected this. You pay a cheap **** price, you get a cheap piece of ****. Avoid both of these jokes of a switch like the freakin' plague.


----------



## anaylor01

I have had my Psyclone for about a week. Everything seemed to be fine. I have a DLP Projector that only does HD through component cables. So I bought component cables for my PS2. After hooking up the component cables for PS2 there is a huge black scolling bar going from right to left on the screen. With the PS2 hooked up through composite it was fine. Any suggestions? It is hooked up right. The only thing I can think of is maybe it is the cable for the PS2. It looks kinda cheap.


----------



## anaylor01

See if you can follow this. I have a VGA end connected to my computer and the other end of the cable is RGB(component) that is attached to my psyclone. From the psyclone I have RGB out to VGA in on my projector. For some reason the projector isn't showing a signal. Any suggestions?


----------



## audvid

correct me if I am not understanding your question: I assume you know that VGA and component are different types of signals. i don't know the psyclone. You will need the 5 wire (vga) coming out of your computer to go to the VGA input of your projector (assuming it has one). If you are trying to switch VGA signals, you might want to consider the KVM switches sold for computers.


----------



## eaadams

Ok so am I right in saying that:


1) the Psyclone does not have discrete codes


2) the Joytrech DOES have discrete codes


3) there is nothing else out there that does both Svid, Component, and optical audio switching for a reasonable price.


4) the Joytech 260 selector would do it but has been delayed.


5) Discrete codes means I can program my remote to select Input 1 then go direct to Input 3. If no descrete codes the remote has to cycle through the inputs one by one.


Thanks all


----------



## tradewinds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eaadams* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok so am I right in saying that:
> 
> 
> 1) the Psyclone does not have discrete codes
> 
> 
> 2) the Joytrech DOES have discrete codes
> 
> 
> 3) there is nothing else out there that does both Svid, Component, and optical audio switching for a reasonable price.
> 
> 
> 4) the Joytech 260 selector would do it but has been delayed.
> 
> 
> 5) Discrete codes means I can program my remote to select Input 1 then go direct to Input 3. If no descrete codes the remote has to cycle through the inputs one by one.
> 
> 
> Thanks all




That is correct. Get the Joytech. It is a much better buy IMHO.


----------



## eaadams

Ok I got the last Joytech from the Santa Rosa, CA Best Buy. It is broken. The digital audio from diffent inputs keeps poping in and out AND it pops between PCM and Bitstream which makes the reciever shudder. I've never seen a piece of A/V equipment actualy seem confused by something it is plugged into.


I'll return it to a best buy that has one in stock.


I'm pretty unhappy.


----------



## anaylor01

I'll try to expand on my situation. I have a 15 pin vga on my laptop. I have a 15 pin vga cable connected to my laptop. The other end of THAT cable is the 3 wires(RED, GREEN,BLUE) that is connected into the Psyclone. From the Psyclone I have a RED, GREEN and Blue cable going out from the Psyclone that turns into a 15 Pin VGA that connects into my projector. Which is basically the opposite from my laptop.. So 15 pin to RGB, RGB to 15 pin. I hope I explained that ok... I am not to well versed in the HD department.


----------



## eaadams

So you are doing VGA into Component, Component to Compnent through the Psyclone, and Component back to VGA? You may be asking for too much to have it do that. VGA is not the same.


But you post had to do with your PS2 though. So what gives?


Does the VGA from laptop to projector work fine?

Does Component from DVD player to projector work fine?

Does Component from DVD player to switch to projector work fine?


----------



## anaylor01

I haven't checked to see if the laptop straight into the projector works yet. Will tonight. I bought what I think are component cables for my PS2. RED, GREEN, BLUE, and the red, white audio cables. But when I use them I have a big black line running across my screen from right to left. But when I do composite cables it looks fine. This is running from component out from PS2 to component in on Psyclone to component out on psyclone to vga in on Projector.


----------



## eaadams

kinda sounds like a ground loop problem. Search the forums for this. Also, post in the projector forum. They are way more pro than me.


----------



## eaadams

General info:


----------------------------------


It is the same product, it is just available in two colours.


Carter Lee


Director of Operations

Joytech North America

622 Broadway

New York, NY

10012

646-723-4260

Primary email address
[email protected] 

Secondary email address
[email protected] 

www.joytech.net 







--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From:

Sent: Friday, June 02, 2006 9:29 PM

To: Carter Lee (Joytech US)

Subject: RE: Joytech 360 selector



How is the one sold at Best Buy, the 240C, different to the one sold at Target and Walmart, the Joytech AV Control Center (Black) V2 Universal. Is the only difference that the Walmart and Target one is Black while the Best Buy one is Silver. They both have remotes and they have the same I/O ports.


Is the remote the same on both? That is of #1 importance for me.






--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


From: Carter Lee (Joytech US) [mailto:[email protected]]

Sent: Friday, June 02, 2006 12:03 PM

To:

Subject: RE: Joytech 360 selector




We are currently working on a launch of Aug 06.




The codes are random and are not set.




Carter Lee




Director of Operations


Joytech North America


622 Broadway


New York, NY


10012


646-723-4260


Primary email address

[email protected] 


Secondary email address

[email protected] 






From:

Sent: Friday, June 02, 2006 2:57 PM

To: Carter Lee (Joytech US)

Subject: Joytech 360 selector


I have read that there is a Joytech 360 selector coming out. When?




What does it mean that the Joytech does not have discrete codes for it's remote?


----------



## Ronin207

Ive been reading these post and it seems like people, on the majority are having good results with the joytech 240 from best buy. I dont know why but i bought one a few days ago and it appeared to work well if you use inputs 1, 2 and 6 but 4 and 5 was horrible! I needed it because my Samsung 32" had only one component connection and i need at least 4 (Satellite, xbox 360, xbox, and DVD) component connections. I plugged in the Sat box on 1, DVD on 2 but both the xboxes on 3 and 4 looked like major interference...fuzzy scan lines...unwatchable. At first, i though it was my cables so i went out and bought monster cables but no change. With the old cables, I moved one to port 6 and it was clear. I also tried the sat box on 4 and 5 I returned it to best buy for an exchange. Second one from different store had same problem. Whats up with this?


I also bought the Psyclone 4 port. I hooked everything up and looks good. I'm not sure what to do. The psyclone is $30 more expensive and 3 ports less. Any thoughts?


----------



## eaadams

My 1st joytech had horible audio problems. I returned it and got a new one. the new one is so far ok. I cant test everything all at once but for what I need it to do it does it ok.


So return it and try a new one. Or use the other product.


----------



## blitz6speed

Wow, i had to read all 6 pages and i totally came out confused. I like the Joytech and it can be had cheap. Its only going to be used for s-video/rca audio for my xbox/ps2/gc/satellite. I have component switching on the satellite receiver itself and i only have 1 item with component anyway at this time (xbox 360). I just really want a device that i can switch inputs via remote and just want a clean switching ability. If this sounds like the joytech is good for this, please advise. I am considering the Psyclone, but it just seems so limited to me.


----------



## Spartan611

Ok I kind of have a little bit of a problem. I got the Joytech 240c and it did not work. Some of the inputs sound would not work and the picture was bad(not grainy but like purple lines and stuff) on most of the inputs. So I returned it and got the Psyclone and the video is good however I do have a problem with the digital optical audio: it does not work on any input. Write now I have a work around by just plugging in directly but in the future I may need that sound from digital optical audio. Is the audio not working because it is a faulty unit? If not then what is the problem? Thanks guys I really appreciate it.


----------



## blitz6speed

I just got one too. I tried all 7 ports with s-video and component (360 and gamecube) and had 0 issues except when running 480p through component. If i do that, i get noise. I just run 720p and its fine. The S-Video is 100% perfect. Couldnt be happier.


----------



## tradewinds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spartan611* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok I kind of have a little bit of a problem. I got the Joytech 240c and it did not work. Some of the inputs sound would not work and the picture was bad(not grainy but like purple lines and stuff) on most of the inputs. So I returned it and got the Psyclone and the video is good however I do have a problem with the digital optical audio: it does not work on any input. Write now I have a work around by just plugging in directly but in the future I may need that sound from digital optical audio. Is the audio not working because it is a faulty unit? If not then what is the problem? Thanks guys I really appreciate it.



Return it. Get a new one.


----------



## natataka

i have the same problem hooking up my gamecube via svideo. it comes out only in B&W. there is no way i can change the gamecube to output other video except digital out which it dont have the cable for. i tried another psyclone unit and it did the same thing? what gives? did you end up with the joytec and how was it?


----------



## eaadams




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tradewinds* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Return it. Get a new one.



Yes return it and get a new one. It took me 2 untill I got a 3rd that worked.


Also of note is that Joytech has an Xbox360 themed version coming out in the next few months. See my post above in thread. So that one will probably be better than all of these ones we are getting now.


I get the impression that a LOT of these things get returned and not fully tested before being resold. Try to find an unopened one.


----------



## Rotag_FU

Just so that you know, if you do get a JoyTech that has any issues be sure to take care of it with the store you bought it from immediately.


Mine has slowly decayed to the point where it becomes locked up in a given state and won't change inputs by remote or by the button. It won't even turn off via the remote or button in this state and must have the power disconnected from the back to reset.


I've been trying to work with Joytech's customer support since I am past the return period for BestBuy. So far the American contact e-mail address has never gotten back to me after a couple of months. The European e-mail address did get back to me after 2 weeks with a response that sounded encouraging, but it has now been over a month with no follow-up from them.


I am shocked at how bad the customer service is at this company so beware.


----------



## mynym

A few people have had some experience with a couple if not more sub $100 AV Switches. If you had to pick one, which one would it be?


a) Joytech 240C

b) Psyclone PSC01

c) Pelican System Selector 2.0

d) Other [Please specify switch under $100]


----------



## tradewinds

For sure the Joytech 240C. But I heard the new 360 Joytech handles HD sources better. Not sure of the proof of that claim.


----------



## Elfman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mynym* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A few people have had some experience with a couple if not more sub $100 AV Switches. If you had to pick one, which one would it be?
> 
> *a) Joytech 240C*
> 
> b) Psyclone PSC01
> 
> c) Pelican System Selector 2.0
> 
> d) Other [Please specify switch under $100]



I would pick the Joytech 240. Been using it since December with no complaints.


----------



## mynym

I see both of you choose the Joytech 240C.



What other switches have you tried and compared it to? How does it handle 1080i from an xbox360?


----------



## thelostone

I picked up a 240c with the sole goal of using just the componets and digital audio. Thus far no problems at 1080i with OTA or 360. I did a quick test at 480p with no issues. If the 360 selectore comes out in the next few weeks I will try it and take back the 240c.


PS: The 360 selector is called the 540c and appears to be delayed again. I'll stick with the 240c.


----------



## bbkim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mynym* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A few people have had some experience with a couple if not more sub $100 AV Switches. If you had to pick one, which one would it be?
> 
> 
> a) Joytech 240C
> 
> b) Psyclone PSC01
> 
> c) Pelican System Selector 2.0
> 
> d) Other [Please specify switch under $100]



I really had a bad experience with Joytech 240C. I tried 5 different units from 3 different BestBuys. They all had a problem of flickering. I had 1080i inputs for all six inputs and at least 2 inputs had flickering problem on all 5 units. One of them had a bad quality picture on one input. I returned them all. I tried a Pelican System Selector 2.0 from Fry's. It had the flickering problem as well.


Currently, I have Psyclone from BestBuy and it is very solid. No problem on any input. And picture qualities are very good from all inputs. It works well with my Harmony 880 remote.


----------



## natataka




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bbkim* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I really had a bad experience with Joytech 240C. I tried 5 different units from 3 different BestBuys. They all had a problem of flickering. I had 1080i inputs for all six inputs and at least 2 inputs had flickering problem on all 5 units. One of them had a bad quality picture on one input. I returned them all. I tried a Pelican System Selector 2.0 from Fry's. It had the flickering problem as well.
> 
> 
> Currently, I have Psyclone from BestBuy and it is very solid. No problem on any input. And picture qualities are very good from all inputs. It works well with my Harmony 880 remote.




i had 2 different psyclone and they both had the b&w issue with svideo. component hookup was fine. the unit was nice looking. not too crazy about the bright front display...but thats all preference


----------



## thelostone

For curiosities sake... in refference to the 240c, what type of cables and what type of display do you have? I have a CRT and use my own cables with no issues. I only have four sources, I wonder if it is a bandwidth issue?


I really wanted to get the Psyclone but no discrete codes at that price point is what stopped me.


----------



## hcjfilms

Very strange how long the Joytech 540c has been delayed. I won't need to get a selector until the Nintendo Wii comes out so I'm hoping this thing will be released before it launches.


Then I'll be deciding between the 540 and the Audio Authority signal sensing beast...


----------



## bbkim




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thelostone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For curiosities sake... in refference to the 240c, what type of cables and what type of display do you have? I have a CRT and use my own cables with no issues. I only have four sources, I wonder if it is a bandwidth issue?
> 
> 
> I really wanted to get the Psyclone but no discrete codes at that price point is what stopped me.



I only tried with component cables on my 53" rear projection Sony TV (KP53HS10). I used my own cables (much thicker than those came with 240c). I connected DVD, Mot HD cable box, PS2, HTPC, and Tvisto movie PVR all via component connections using all same 1.5 ft components.


The Psyclone works great for me. I wish it has more inputs.


----------



## shadow_zero

So it's not a good idea to import a Joytech 240 for my JVC HV32P40 hd crt-tv?

I connect my Gamecube, PS2 and dvd-player with component and the Wii too when it's released.


I had contact with Joytech (fast e-mail reply!) and they said the 240 is not available in the Netherland (and probably nowhere in Europe). He also said there would be a new model released in November.

I took it as a total new release, but now I'm wondering if he means the XBox 360 version (some say it's the 540c model).

I've seen that XBox 360 model with a few internetshops, but maybe it got delayed till November...?


----------



## Planchet

Another newb here looking for help, please.

First, the current setup:

I've got a DVR and an XBox 360, with the audio from both going to a Sony receiver and the video going to my HDTV.


As it stands now I have to select the inputs on both the receiver and the TV when I want to switch between the two, and so I'd like to pick up an AV Switch to make my life (and the girlfriend's) a little easier.


The problem:

I plan on picking up a Wii in November, but I'm afraid that the lack of a digital audio port might undo the benefits I'd get from the Switch. Is this indeed the case? I'd have the DVR and the 360 connecting to the Switch through the optical ports, and a single optical cable running to the receiver. The Wii, however, would have to output through the standard L/R audio to the switch. Will the Switch redirect the audio from the Wii through the optical port to the receiver?


Anyway, I hope this makes sense. If it doesn't, I'll attempt to clarify what I need.


----------



## eaadams

Yea the switch will switch optical cable signals so you just have all your audio going into your switch and one optical cable going into your reciever. OR are you saying the Wii does not have digital audio? In which case yea just use red/white cables. I don't believe the switch will upconvert analog audio but that is not needed in that situation as your not going to se a benefit and your reciever has plenty of red white inputs.


The question you should be asking is do you need HDTV switching. In which case you need to think about spending a lot more money on quality than the Joytech 240. I think there is a new switch coming out from joytech that is 360 branded and thus I think should switch HD better. That is what I'd use.


Your best bet to siplify the girlfriend issue is a good remote. I got the Harmony 880 and it make my life SO much better I could never have imagined.


----------



## Planchet

I'm sorry, I knew that I wasn't clear in my first post.


I understand the basic principles behind the switchbox, so optical into the switch will send optical out of the switch (for instance).

But it's pretty much confirmed that the Wii will not have any form of optical out, so I was hoping that at least one of the three aforementioned switches will take analog audio in and then output it through an optical connection. I realize that there would be no audible benefit (it wouldn't try to replicate surround sound, for instance), but it would give me once central point of connection for all of my AV equipment.


I don't really need HD switching; my TV has two or three component inputs, one HDMI, and one or two DVI. So I've got plenty of room to grow.


I've got the 360-branded Harmony, I know I can set up macros or whatever to simplify things. I just usually find hardware solutions better than software ones.


I guess it's time to start messing around with macros.


----------



## eaadams

Yea it won't upconvert. But depending on your reciever it may beable to get optical in and when no signal comes into optical in that it goes to analog. Then you just go analog into the switch and analog from switch to reciever.


----------



## shadow_zero

Or just use the audio out of your tv with the audio in of the receiver.

Then every device hooked up to your tv will make use of your receiver (analogue)


----------



## dreemweaver




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thelostone* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For curiosities sake... in refference to the 240c, what type of cables and what type of display do you have? I have a CRT and use my own cables with no issues. I only have four sources, I wonder if it is a bandwidth issue?
> 
> 
> I really wanted to get the Psyclone but no discrete codes at that price point is what stopped me.




Maybe Psyclone has released an updated version because the one I picked up from Best Buy today has a button for each individual input on the remote. I have programmed my normal Sony remote and everything works great.


So far so good with the Psyclone for me. The very bright display could get annoying but luckily for me my components are in a closet.


----------



## Sageice

I have the Joytech 240c and there is no signal degradation with it, but there are at least 2 versions of the unit. Mine is version 1.0, there is a version 2.0 which does have signal degradation. I have tried both, and version 1.0 the picture is great. The only problem I have with it is the LCD screen goes blank for weeks at a time then starts working out of nowhere. It some times will get odd characters on the LCD too for weeks at a time. Unplugging the unit for 24 hours does nothing to fix it, the LCD just starts working again on it's own. This isn't much of a problem for me because I use a Harmony remote so I really have no reasom to look at the LCD screen, but it still makes me a bit angry.


----------



## tradewinds

You LCD part of the unit is defective. I have had a few of these, no signal degredation or other issues even with HDTV. Not sure if it is V1 or V2 I had.


----------



## ARogan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dreemweaver* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Maybe Psyclone has released an updated version because the one I picked up from Best Buy today has a button for each individual input on the remote. I have programmed my normal Sony remote and everything works great.
> 
> 
> So far so good with the Psyclone for me. The very bright display could get annoying but luckily for me my components are in a closet.



I went by Best Buy today looking for this new model. They had a big stack of the Psyclone switches so we opened one up in the store and it still had the old 3 button remote.


Can you tell by the box if it is the new model (model #, different picture of the remote)?


----------



## channy

Buy.com has the Joy Tech Control Center original and 2 for $64.99. Does Best Buy still carry these?


----------



## tradewinds

it is not 2 for 64.99, it is the The Joytech Control Center 2. The price for one is 64.99 + shipping.


I am also not sure if this is the older or newer model.


----------



## channy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tradewinds* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> it is not 2 for 64.99, it is the The Joytech Control Center 2. The price for one is 64.99 + shipping.
> 
> 
> I am also not sure if this is the older or newer model.



I think its the new model. I think I'm gonna run over to BB and see what they offer.


----------



## GreenMonkey

I've had the Joytech 240c since sometime last year. I carefully examined it for image problems at 1080i via my Zenith DVB-318 DVD player and saw no problems (although it caused a problem where the DVD player and my X1 projector lose sync on a bright white screen). So it was doing something to the video signal. I left only the GC, Xbox, etc all plugged into it.


I recently got the Dish HD package and noticed there is some ghosting at anything over 480p on it. I get a very slight ghost of the image, a few inches to the right of the original image. If I bypass the Joytech and go straight into my Onkyo receiver it goes away.


I really don't want to give the unit up and spend money on a new one. I especially like all the inputs, as I have 6+ consoles hooked up.


Based on what someone said above I'm going to try switching ports to a different input when I get home. Maybe on a different input it'll work better.


----------



## tradewinds

What Joytech had mentioned was that there was a new selector (looks like the xbox) which was supposed to handle HD sources better. Basically, in not so many word they did say that the software in the 240C can be a problem.


----------



## mwhip

just read through this whole thread and it looks like the joytech is the way to go but does the 240 have component inputs on it? That is what I need for my TV since that is the only type of input it has.


----------



## tradewinds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mwhip* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> just read through this whole thread and it looks like the joytech is the way to go but does the 240 have component inputs on it? That is what I need for my TV since that is the only type of input it has.



yes


----------



## telero




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ARogan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I went by Best Buy today looking for this new model. They had a big stack of the Psyclone switches so we opened one up in the store and it still had the old 3 button remote.
> 
> 
> Can you tell by the box if it is the new model (model #, different picture of the remote)?




I just picked one of these up yesterday at Circuit City. Randomly saw it there and figured I could give it a shot, hadn't even read about it here before.


Anyway, the one I got has 7 buttons (power, +, -, 1, 2, 3, 4). I would have to guess that the boxes are the same when it comes with the 3 button or 7 button remote, as on the back of the box I got there is a picture of the remote and it only has 3 buttons.


----------



## TravistyOJ

Are the Joytech 240Cs still stocked at B&M stores like Best Buy Circuit city, or would I have to order it online? Anyone know the cheapest and/or best place to buy one?


----------



## NeoApocalypse

Well, I've been trying to decide between the Psyclone and the 540c (xbox 360 themed control center), but every web page I go to that sells the 540c is in the U.K. or AUS and won't ship it out of the country. The only mentions on any U.S. pages were previews from last year that it would be coming out. I e-mailed Joytech's general enquiry e-mail and received no response.


I guess I'll just buy the Psyclone and if it doesn't work or doesn't work with my Harmony remote, I can always return it and then order a 240c from Wal-Mart.


Anyone know what the Joytech 245c is? I've seen this on a few sites and can't tell the difference between that and the 240c.


----------



## bart19

The 245c is supposed to replace the 240c. I'm hoping that it will fix the problems that were present in the 240 (not handling 480 signals right).


I'm also on the lookout for a 540c or 245c in the US, but haven't had luck, yet. I'll report back if I find a vendor who ships here.


----------



## DavidHart

I recently bought an XBox 360 from Micro Center. They have a $100 rebate on Xbox 360 systems. I have a DVD player, a Comcast Cable Box, and a Sony HDR-HC3 high def video camera.


My TV has only two component inputs and my Sony STR-DE935 receiver doesn't have any component inputs. After doing some research I found the PSC01. Given the age of my receiver, I seriously considered putting the $160 ($100 for PSC01, $60 for a component and a optical audio cable) towards a new receiver but decided to go with the PSC01 for now. The current crop of receivers are just showing up with HDMI inputs and I'm going to wait for a good value before buying one.


I picked up a PSC01 at Best Buy (price matched to Circuit City). The Psyclone is a nice little unit and setup is a breeze. I did some additional research, found this forum, and discovered that there were two versions of this unit, one with a 3 function remote (can only switch up and down through channels) and one with a 7 function remote (discrete codes for each channel).


As another poster pointed out, the boxes are exactly the same, the only difference is that the back of the newer unit with the 7 function remote has hash marks around the component cable connectors. And the only way to see this is to open the box and pull the unit out. Fortunately, the boxes are not sealed, at least not int he stores that I visited.


I found one of the newer versions at the local Circuit City (Burlington, MA) and will be returning the older version for a refund. Now I just need to replace my 4 device multifunction remote (have run out of device controls) with a Harmony so that I can control my XBox.


David


----------



## ryguy76

I found a Psyclone PSC01 at BestBuy in Kansas City with the advanced remote (discrete codes). I hooked it up to all my components and it is working great.


I haven't noticed any comments in this forum regarding smoothness of input switching, but wanted to say that the Psyclone switches between inputs very cleanly. My main concern was interference or "popping" when switching between inputs, but the Psyclone has no visible problem with that. Overall, I'm very happy with this unit.


The only feature this unit does not have that I would like to see is the ability to upconvert from composite input to component output. The Psyclone is basically a blind switch. Not a dealbreaker by any means, but maybe a feature for them to consider in the next version of this device.


----------



## tradewinds

how much is BB selling them?


----------



## ARogan

Thanks for all the Psyclone reports. I guess I'll give circuit city a try next and start opening boxes!


----------



## kobhomye

Just a suggestion, expand your search to ebay and look for a key digital switch! I just scored the Key Digital KD-csw4x1 for $75, it is retailing for $500. I got it Friday and the picture quality is beautiful! Its certified at 1080p! ebay has been good to me, this unit along with the key digital kd-cda12 distribution amplifier, I scored for $18 on ebay retails for $800, these two pieces together are pristine!

heres the link if your lucky enough to score it!

cant like it just search for item #280053196110


----------



## ARogan

I just picked up the new psyclone.

For pics and impressions I've updated my av switch post:
http://aroganworld.blogspot.com/2006...-switches.html 


The key digital sounds like a good solution if you don't need the optical switch too. The optical switching on the psyclone is a big selling point for me.


----------



## GreenMonkey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ARogan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just picked up the new psyclone.
> 
> For pics and impressions I've updated my av switch post:
> http://aroganworld.blogspot.com/2006...-switches.html
> 
> 
> The key digital sounds like a good solution if you don't need the optical switch too. The optical switching on the psyclone is a big selling point for me.



Indeed, these switches do me no good without optical audio switching as well.


----------



## Vanders

After reading this post, I purchased a Psyclone PSC01 because my Toshiba 52HM95 52" DLP HDTV only has two component connections. I have an Xbox 360, a Motorolla DVR through my cable company and--now that I've finally received the component cables--a Nintendo Wii that all use component connections. My PS3 is connected via an HDMI cable. Okay, here's the really weird part, the Xbox 360 games and HDDVD player look fantastic, but the Wii is having jumping issues. The screen only jumps on the initial menu and the Wii store where you download games. Games look fine as do the settings menus, which are very different from the initial menu. When I hook up the Wii directly to the TV, everything looks fine. I've tried all the different inputs with the same results. Any clue what might be causing this strange behavior? Would exchanging it for another PSC01 by chance fix the problem?


----------



## ARogan

Actually I bought this switch for using with the Wii but I still haven't got my component cables yet (They just shipped). I'll give it a try as soon as I get the cables.


----------



## Vanders

I've also tried a second PSC01 with the same problem and a Joytech 240C with similar results, except it shows no picture at all. I did find out that Rayman only plays at 480i and that might be why I got the wierd results with no image problems when playing a game. The latest thing that I tried was a low-tech Phillips, no power, not gold, nothing and it works just fine. I haven't tried the Phillips with my Xbox 360 HDDVD player, but I'm concerned about the quality. I'll be sure to post what results I have with the 360's HDDVD player. I'm curious to see if you have the same Wii problems that I've had.


----------



## KLUNKDM

I have been waiting for this one (Joytech Control Center Xbox 360) and I will be buying it next week I hope, since it is finally here and I can order it without any worries. So here you go if you are interested. I just don't want to spend anything more then this. I will post when I get it.

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=4244402


----------



## tradewinds

That's great. Does the remote have discrete codes? Also, seems like four inputs only, not sure why it states 5.


----------



## KLUNKDM

Here is a link to the manufacture web site. There is more info.....

http://www.joytech.net/5/products/xb...enter-540C.htm 


Here are some things..

* Proprietary Xbox 360 connection carries all console video and audio through one simple lead

* 4 HDTV ready Component Video inputs, 5 Composite Video and Stereo Audio inputs, 4

* Built in 5 port 10/100 Ethernet Lan Hub provides reliable connection to PC, Xbox Live® and

* Customizable Backlit LCD Display allows user to name individual Inputs for simple navigation

* Remote control included for effortless switching between AV Equipment

* Component and Composite cables included


----------



## shepP

Good to hear another toy is coming out before Christmas







No more manual switching for me. Time for the equipment to go into the closet.


----------



## ehanhan

I found this unit on video-storm . Its their "Ultra Wide bandwidth HDTV switch & amp with DC restoration" is that the same thing as these switches?


Seems like a really nice unit. But I dont know jack about a/v. I found this looking for reviews of component switches. I have a 360, wii and a hd reciever i need to hookup to my rptv. Thanks for the help so far


Does anyone have a picture of the 540c's remote?


----------



## ARogan

Fyi, I finally got my Wii component cables and hooked them up through the Psyclone PSC01 and had no issues with my Samsung lnr409d (LCD HDTV). The cables and switch worked great.


----------



## AnthemAZ.HDTV

I just bought a Psyclone PSC01 (with 7 button remote







) - great unit, except for the very bright blue display. I'm curious if anyone has modifyed their's to dim the light?


----------



## aghotbi

I just bought the Psyclone PSC-01, and was extremely disapointed. My TV doesn't have any RCA inputs (it's a 50" industrial/corporate panasonic plasma) It only does S-video, component, HDMI and DVI. I bought the psyclone and put the standard RCA cables into input 1, my output was S-video to the tv and it didn't work. Apparently this doesn't convert all the singals from any given input to any signal on the output side. It needs to remain consistent. I.e. S-video into input 1 will be the only send a signal to the S-video of the output. It's really quite frustrating. Are there any A/V selectors out there that will convert the video within the box? Any help would be appreciate.


----------



## Vanders




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ARogan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Fyi, I finally got my Wii component cables and hooked them up through the Psyclone PSC01 and had no issues with my Samsung lnr409d (LCD HDTV). The cables and switch worked great.



Mine worked great too, until I switched the output on the Wii to 480p. I guess the switch just isn't compatible with my Toshiba 52HM95 (52" DLP HDTV)...argh!


----------



## GMan4911




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KLUNKDM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have been waiting for this one (Joytech Control Center Xbox 360) and I will be buying it next week I hope, since it is finally here and I can order it without any worries. So here you go if you are interested. I just don't want to spend anything more then this. I will post when I get it.
> 
> http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=4244402



Did you order it yet?


----------



## KLUNKDM

No not yet.........Since it is Christmas time, I have to buy the presents first....I will be getting it, but it might have to wait a couple of more weeks............I will let you all know.....


----------



## shepP

I won't be able to buy mine untill over the Christmas break when I'm vacationing in Florida. No one seems to carry this item in Canada, so I'm out of luck untill then.


----------



## steller2k

Thank you to everyone on this forum (thread) for the quality information. I ordered the 540C from WalMart's website thanks to the link provided above. Unfortunately they were severely overpriced on shipping so I choose the 7-10 day option for $6 (the next best was in excess of $35 for 2-3 days). Including tax, the price came to about $110. I was nervous considering the posts here about purchasing where I could not immediately return it if I experience problems. (Crossing my fingers that the long delay was to fix the quality, optical and 480p crosstalk issue discussed above) however, considering I have no open component inputs available for my recently purchased 360 until it shows up and combined with the fact that my TV and stand is probably in 400-500+ lbs range. I'm not lazy, but I can't get to the back of the TV to switch inputs on a regular basis. Anyhow, given the great information I trolled from here, including the knowledge of the existence of the 540c and where to buy one, it is fair and right to give my impressions as soon as I have it.


Thank you all and hopefully I can post my thoughts before Christmas for any last minute shoppers.


----------



## aghotbi

I returned my Psyclone last week as it was too big for my entertainment center and went with the Joytech 540c from the walmart website. It's been "processing" my order for about a week now and says that ti's still on schedule to be delievered by December 14th-18th. I'll post my review when I have it hand.


----------



## infinitespecter

Has anyone tested the Intec switch yet? I am tempted to give it a try from Wal-Mart (given their return policies) because of the super low price. Anyone?


----------



## Icedtea515

Guy on ebay is selling tons of Joytech 240c's for $44.00 ($27.00 + $17.00 Shipping).


Supposedly the units are used but in perfect condition and comes with everything (remote, box, manual, etc.)


I bought one and he shipped it the next day, once I get it (Friday hopefully) I'll test it and post with results.


here's the link to one of the auctions: http://cgi.*********/JOYTECH-240C-AV...em190061036468


----------



## tradewinds

that is an excellent price. I am just curious how he ended up with so many used ones.


----------



## Icedtea515




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tradewinds* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> that is an excellent price. I am just curious how he ended up with so many used ones.



Ya, I honestly have zero idea. When I bought mine he had 18 up for sale and now another 9 or so up.


They do tend to go fast so if you want one I wouldn't mess around too long.


----------



## steller2k

First, WalMart shocked me by getting the 7-10 shipping item to me by the 3rd business day. It shipped the first business day after my order and arrived 2 days later. It even arrived before my 360, so that part of my "review" will be late.


The unit itself and packaging are impressive. Of course, it features the love it or leave it styling of the XBox 360. But the quality and fit/finish on initial inspection is quite good. The packaging job was excellent and both the box and included manual impressed me. The manual is nicer than the one that shipped with my $1000 Sony TV, and has installation instruction in 15 languages. The included XBox360 interface cable is a little on the short side at 3 feet. I would have preferred 6 feet, but I was also worried about it being less than 1-2 feet requiring the control unit to be directly next to the XBox. Installation thoughts and PS2/DVD player testing coming up next.


----------



## GMan4911




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tradewinds* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> that is an excellent price. I am just curious how he ended up with so many used ones.



My question would be why he's got so many used ones. Are people returning them because of the problems observed in the beginning of this thread?


----------



## tradewinds

right, since it appeared there was a batch of them that had issues with interlace I believe.


----------



## Icedtea515

Could be, I'll be using S-Video and Optical (No Component which seems to be the problem) so that's the reason I got it.


----------



## infinitespecter




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Icedtea515* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ya, I honestly have zero idea. When I bought mine he had 18 up for sale and now another 9 or so up.
> 
> 
> They do tend to go fast so if you want one I wouldn't mess around too long.




I saw these too and was a little wary of what issues they may have. However, for the price, I really can't go wrong. I really only need it for Optical switching right now anyway.


----------



## Icedtea515




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *infinitespecter* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I saw these too and was a little wary of what issues they may have. However, for the price, I really can't go wrong. I really only need it for Optical switching right now anyway.



Yeah same, and the auction says they're in perfectly working condition *shrug* we will see I guess.


Hopefully should get mine tomorrow.


----------



## steller2k

Not bad, some minor complaints but on the whole pretty nice.


First and most importantly, I didn't see any problems with the screen output. I was unable to notice any differences between the Joytech and straight to TV from my DVD player on the component cables. Of course, seeing as I don't have a spare, the test was performed manually connecting cables to and from my DVD player and then switching inputs on my TV while rewatching a loop of Video from Superman Returns. It would have been nice to run side-by-side comparisons but then I might run into differences in the DVD players as well.










The next test was PS2 Gran Turismo 4 checking 1080i, 480p and standard definition modes. (note: My receiver (Sony STR-DE997) upconverts S-VHS inputs automatically to component video out, but shouldn't influence the signal direct off the component video.) All modes worked and looked fine, no scan lines or added noise... though 1080i looked best of all - once the weird interlacing issue that is common to the game clears up.


Other notes: The menu system on the Joytech could stand some improvements. Chiefly, I disliked the fact I had to remove the entire faceplate to access the menu. Also, editing the AV names was slow at best, as there is no way to backup and make corrections, so do it right the first time or redo it again! On the plus side, I should never have to mess with it again. By the way, the menu allows at least 8 characters in the main name area and 2 additional characters in the prior to the input number (i.e. xx1 xxxxxxxx, xx2 xxxxxxxx) etc. The built in remote works, but it is hideous; however, it works great with my Harmony 880.


One of the cheif things I appreciate is the built in 5 port 10/100 network switch. Unlike most game switches with network connections, this will allow the XBox 360 to communicate (i.e. download) even if I'm not actively playing it. This is also likely the main reason for the increased price over the previous Joytech models.


So far, I am quite content with my short experience with Joytech, but I still don't have my XBox 360. I'll update this in about a week as I continue to use it or when my 360 arrives.


----------



## tradewinds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steller2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> One of the cheif things I appreciate is the built in 5 port 10/100 network switch. Unlike most game switches with network connections, this will allow the XBox 360 to communicate (i.e. download) even if I'm not actively playing it. This is also likely the main reason for the increased price over the previous Joytech models.




THe 240C also had a 5-port 10/100 switch if I am not mistaken.


----------



## KLUNKDM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steller2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The built in 5 port 10/100 network switch. Unlike most game switches with network connections, this will allow the XBox 360 to communicate (i.e. download) even if I'm not actively playing it.



This is one of the main things I like about the unit.........I think the 240c didn't work this way, so it is an advantage......I ordered one today so I will post some next week on it.........


----------



## thecrazykevy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steller2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> One of the cheif things I appreciate is the built in 5 port 10/100 network switch. Unlike most game switches with network connections, this will allow the XBox 360 to communicate (i.e. download) even if I'm not actively playing it. This is also likely the main reason for the increased price over the previous Joytech models.



So can more then 1 device be using the ethernet connecting at once? Such as downloading with your Xbox 360 but also playing online with your PS3? If so that would be awesome


----------



## KLUNKDM




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thecrazykevy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> So can more then 1 device be using the ethernet connecting at once? Such as downloading with your Xbox 360 but also playing online with your PS3? If so that would be awesome



Yes you can do this.......The device has a switch in it, so instead of being hard wired for each port (Old models), it is much easier and a better solution to just put a switch in it, so you can be using all the ports if you want at the same time........Also, Walmart shipped mine today...........


----------



## thecrazykevy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KLUNKDM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Yes you can do this.......The device has a switch in it, so instead of being hard wired for each port (Old models), it is much easier and a better solution to just put a switch in it, so you can be using all the ports if you want at the same time........Also, Walmart shipped mine today...........



So it functions like a router or hub. Then it is a fairly good deal. I would get this right away if I didn't already have the pelican system selector 2.0 for my ps2, xbox and xbox 360.


----------



## calibos




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Vanders* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> After reading this post, I purchased a Psyclone PSC01 because my Toshiba 52HM95 52" DLP HDTV only has two component connections. I have an Xbox 360, a Motorolla DVR through my cable company and--now that I've finally received the component cables--a Nintendo Wii that all use component connections. My PS3 is connected via an HDMI cable. Okay, here's the really weird part, the Xbox 360 games and HDDVD player look fantastic, but the Wii is having jumping issues. The screen only jumps on the initial menu and the Wii store where you download games. Games look fine as do the settings menus, which are very different from the initial menu. When I hook up the Wii directly to the TV, everything looks fine. I've tried all the different inputs with the same results. Any clue what might be causing this strange behavior? Would exchanging it for another PSC01 by chance fix the problem?



I'm having the same issue with a European 245c and Wii via component. Wii set to 480i or P and menu's jump but game is fine. Set to 576i(Pal) and menus are fine but screen goes blank in-game.


Did you ever get this issue fixed Vanders??


----------



## hairfarmer77

Hi,


I have had a problem with scan lines on my Psyclone PSC01 unit so I went and got another one to see if I had a bum unit. I was getting a Vertical bar followed by a horizontal line with rectangles (you would have to see it) on both my Wii and ReplayTV units. The 'new' unit also displays these lines AND I get tearing on a load screen for Wii sports on the Wii.



Strangely no lines appeared with my 400 Disk Sony DVD (component 480p) player or the PS2 (also component) , but I could not get the PS2 optical to be switched via the Psyclone???


The short story is I have a bunch of issues with the Psyclone unit.


I contacted their tech support via their site website


psyclonegamer

com (cant post urls due to "spam restriction")


and got back this response:



> Quote:
> "We have been seeing a small percentage of defective
> 
> units as we have sold quite a few of them in the past couple weeks. We
> 
> would like to see this unit if possible. Let me know if you would be
> 
> willing to send it in to us. We would get you a new unit as well as a
> 
> Gift Card to Best Buy to make up for the shipping costs. Let me know if
> 
> you would be willing to do this."



What is kinda odd is that they say they have a "small percentage of defective units" but have also "sold quite a few (defective units)". I have the same problem with both my Psyclone units but the units differ about a year in purchase date.


Also, this issue only manifests itself when switching 480p signals, before when I used it for my 1080i signals it had no scan lines.



I thought my story may help some other individuals in their quest, BTW I have a Mitsubishi WT-46805 rear projection HDTV.


So I would like to switch to the Joytech 245C unit but I haven't found any real world info about it.


Any thoughts about the 245C?


----------



## KLUNKDM

Got my Joytech 540C today and it is great......Picture Quality looks great.....I am running it into a Sony 50A10. At first the 360 port is set to run S-V which is S-Video out instead of YUV which is for Component, This made the image Black and White, so I had to change that in the setting, No big deal, but YUV is the default, mine just wasn't......I like the system over all. The switch is great for downloading stuff on the 360 while watching TV or something and the device looks good.......I did have one thing that is wrong though, the LCD screen looks like there is a small hair line crack or something in it. You can't see it unless you are really close. I am going to just live with it, since the system has a 2 year warranty. I might E-mail them and see what they say though.....But other then that my DVR, PS2, Xbox and 360 all looks great and for the cheap price, I think it is worth it..........


----------



## Icedtea515

Got the Joytech 240c off ebay the other day, hooked it up with Composite and it works flawlessly. Cables should be here tomorrow so I'll test out the S-Video and Optical and post results.


So far so good though.


----------



## calibos




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *calibos* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I'm having the same issue with a European 245c and Wii via component. Wii set to 480i or P and menu's jump but game is fine. Set to 576i(Pal) and menus are fine but screen goes blank in-game.
> 
> 
> Did you ever get this issue fixed Vanders??



Update:


Still the same problem with 480i and 480p but strangely 576i has been working flawlessly for the last few days without any changes to my setup. Suits me, as all I wanted from the 245c with regard to the Wii was that it switched component even if it is 'Just' Pal interlaced. DSecent Pal de-interlacer in the Panny AE900 PJ so I am not losing out on PQ being 'stuck' with 576i.


As for the 245c itself. Other than the aforementioned little problem it has worked flawlessly and to my eyes has no negative impact on PQ.


----------



## GreenMonkey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Icedtea515* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Got the Joytech 240c off ebay the other day, hooked it up with Composite and it works flawlessly. Cables should be here tomorrow so I'll test out the S-Video and Optical and post results.
> 
> 
> So far so good though.



Icedtea - do you have HD to check out the component video? I like the 240c but it has gotten flaky - ghosting at rez over 480p and intermittent jumping/rolling screen problem over s-video (caused by white flashes or sometimes channel changing).


I'd probably even buy a replacement if I was sure it would work properly.


----------



## Soybean

I sure love this forum, but sometimes I have difficulty processing all the information that everyone is kind enough to provide.


The Joytech 240C seems great, but it sounds like 480 over component is problematic. True? Do we know if the 540C alleviates that problem? 480i/p over component is pretty important for me, since my DVD player, PS2, Xbox and Wii will all use that.


Hmm... On the other hand, that's just 4 devices with component output, and I guess I could get one of those higher quality component cable switches. Leave the S-video sources for another box to switch. Would you recommend that route?


----------



## Icedtea515




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GreenMonkey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Icedtea - do you have HD to check out the component video? I like the 240c but it has gotten flaky - ghosting at rez over 480p and intermittent jumping/rolling screen problem over s-video (caused by white flashes or sometimes channel changing).
> 
> 
> I'd probably even buy a replacement if I was sure it would work properly.



I can check it at my brother in law's house this weekend (he's got a sony 720p lcd hdtv) and get back to you.


----------



## GMan4911

I ended up getting the Psyclone and it's working out for me so far. I have a DirecTivo->DVDO Iscan @ 480p, an HTPC @ 720p, and an XBox 360 @ 720p connected to it. There seems to be no noticeable picture degradation. I did have a problem with the HTPC syncing up with my TV at first - the image didn't fill the whole screen. I fixed it by running the NVidia Control Panel and configuring it to output 720p again. Not sure why it didn't sync initially but it's all good now. If I had a complaint, it would be the flimsy remote but that can be fixed by using a universal remote.


----------



## shadow_zero

I've noticed problems with my Joytech AV Control Center 245C









As well as with dvd's and with videogames at certain times I'll get scrambled horizontal lines and sometimes even the screen drops out and turns to 'the' blue screen.

Anyone know what's going on?


----------



## Vincent Kennedy

Why would Joytec put a network HUB in their 540C A/V switch instead of a network SWITCH? The price difference could not be that much! Don't get me wrong, I think putting a networking piece in the A/V switch is a great idea, but why not go with a switch? They made it halfway to a good idea at least...


----------



## Andy Anonymous

I also really need a switch like this. I need at least 7 (8 would be even better) inputs, at least four with component video and three with optical audio, and remote control input. The only two options I've found that even come close are the Pelican System Selector Pro 2.0 -- which doesn't have enough inputs -- and the Joytech 245C, which doesn't seem to be sold ANYWHERE in the US.


Anyone know of another option, or where I could find the 245C? Or alternately, anyone who could potentially help fix the problem that's arisen with my 240C?


----------



## rsatavs

I need a setup so that I can in addition to switching between multiple input, should also be able to select whether I output to TV or Projector.


Edit: Found info on this on page 5 of this thread. Thanks...


----------



## adster

Hey guys...


After a long while of searching and reading this forum, I got the Psyclone PSC01. Everything on it works great, and I even have the 2nd version (with the input buttons!) but one thing I can't seem to get working is the Ethernet.


I have a regular Ethernet cable going to the selector and from the selector to the Xbox 360 and it can't get an signal. Do I need to use a crossover cable when connecting to the selector?


----------



## raystorm

Boy that Joytech Xbox 360 Control Center is impossible to find! At the moment only Walmart has it in stock but its 100 buckaroos. Buy com has it for cheaper but its out of stock at the moment. I was pretty close to getting a Joytech 240c or Psyclone used on ebay but most of them disappeared and I'm a bit wary of used stuff that doesn't say is fully tested.


I noticed the Joytech AV Control Center v2 at Walmart. Thats pretty much the same as the 240c right?? I think this was mentioned earlier in this thread. Not sure if I should wait until the Xbox Control Center is back in stock at buy com or just buy the Joytech (whether used at ebay or that v2 model).


----------



## KLUNKDM

Well I am happy with my 360 Control Center (Joytech 540C). I would either wait for it or just get it at Walmart....................


----------



## Andy Anonymous




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *raystorm* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Boy that Joytech Xbox 360 Control Center is impossible to find! At the moment only Walmart has it in stock but its 100 buckaroos. Buy com has it for cheaper but its out of stock at the moment. I was pretty close to getting a Joytech 240c or Psyclone used on ebay but most of them disappeared and I'm a bit wary of used stuff that doesn't say is fully tested.
> 
> 
> I noticed the Joytech AV Control Center v2 at Walmart. Thats pretty much the same as the 240c right?? I think this was mentioned earlier in this thread. Not sure if I should wait until the Xbox Control Center is back in stock at buy com or just buy the Joytech (whether used at ebay or that v2 model).



Well according to Joytech's website, the v2 doesn't have component video. But according to Walmart's website, it does. So next time you're around there, if you'd check the box and see what the truth is, I'd appreciate it!


----------



## zasy99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Andy Anonymous* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Well according to Joytech's website, the v2 doesn't have component video. But according to Walmart's website, it does. So next time you're around there, if you'd check the box and see what the truth is, I'd appreciate it!



The AV Control Center 2 doesn't have component inputs, they are composite. Just go to the Joytech site and take a look at the rear input images or even the PDF manual, no component.


I have the Psyclone PSC01 and have to return it, any bright video source eg. explosions, lots of sunlight etc... will cause the unit to drop the video signal, happens on my Wii, PS3, 360 and DVD player, hooked up straight to TV is fine.


----------



## toxicthunder

i have been thru two joytech 240c units. one was from ebay, and one was brand new from best buy.


both had a problem with the nintendo wii at 480p. same as everyone says, bright pictures or white casued bad tearing at the top of the screen.


check out this thread for pictures:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=778380 


i tried every possible port/cable combination... including only having one cable connected to the projector, and then the wii cable... no audio, no network etc...


these units are crap.


----------



## infinitespecter

Guess the one I got off ebay was too good to be true. I am only trying to use it as an optical audio switch, but that has been problematic. It does not like the optical audio my TiVo Series 3 puts out for whatever reason. That input always goes down. I moved it to input 4 (from input 2), and it started working fine for a while before this happened again. I then noticed that all of the inputs work fine if my Xbox 360 (which is on input 1) is on. Turn it off, and all hell breaks loose. This is just weird. I am going to email the seller tomorrow morning.


----------



## GreenMonkey

I have no significant problems with the Joytech 240c at 480p. At 720p and less so at 1080i, it ghosts quite a bit










The screen also rolls quite a bit when the screen flashes bright white...this at 480i over s-video.


It didn't used to do this. It has degraded since I bought it. I'm still waiting to hear more reports on the Pscylone units.


----------



## Andy Anonymous




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zasy99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The AV Control Center 2 doesn't have component inputs, they are composite. Just go to the Joytech site and take a look at the rear input images or even the PDF manual, no component.
> 
> 
> I have the Psyclone PSC01 and have to return it, any bright video source eg. explosions, lots of sunlight etc... will cause the unit to drop the video signal, happens on my Wii, PS3, 360 and DVD player, hooked up straight to TV is fine.



Yeah, I knew that it showed the composite-only connections on the Joytech site. It's Wal-mart that threw it into doubt by listing component video inputs for the unit on their website.


Ah well, I just bought a replacement 240C off eBay...hopefully this one doesn't have the same problem. If it does, I really won't know what to do. I require at least 7 inputs, and the options for this are so limited it's not even funny. I'm dumbfounded by the fact that there are almost no alternatives on the market for such a product.


----------



## toxicthunder

i also noticed that the joytech 240c i bought from best buy had a sticker on the bottom that said v2.0, and the one from ebay did not.


so we can rule out that they fixed the 480p problem in a new version...


----------



## Ryguy

Does anyone here have the Joytech Xbox360 (540C) switcher and a PS3? I've been experiencing the signal dropout during very bright images on my PS3 with this unit. I know a very easy way to get it to happen everytime and I'm checking if other people have this same problem.


It's very easy to duplicate. All you gotta do is go to the PS3 date/time settings and change the time to anywhere around 1pm. For those of you not familiar with the PS3, the background color changes depending on what time of day it is... at night, it's dark... during the day, it's bright. Just so happens that around 1pm the background is bright enough to cause the unit to drop the signal. I hooked my PS3 directly to my tv and no problem at all. You must be in 720p or 1080i to get this to happen. In 480p mode, it doesn't happen.


It sucks that this unit has this problem. I like the fact that is provides a free optical out for my xbox360.


----------



## steller2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KLUNKDM* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> At first the 360 port is set to run S-V which is S-Video out instead of YUV which is for Component, This made the image Black and White, so I had to change that in the setting, No big deal, but YUV is the default, mine just wasn't.



Actually, despite saying YUV is the default in the manual, mine was also selected to S-V which displays in black and white and causes the 360 to refuse to choose any hi-definition modes.


I apologize for taking so long to finish up this mini review, my XBox 360 arrived late and then died after only a few hours of play. After hassling with warranty/returns it took awhile to get another working one and by that time I was on vacation. To top it off I had the same problem above but didn't check the setting because the manual stated YUV was default and indicated that if it was set wrong I wouldn't get a picture at all. The manual was wrong.


I wanted to wait for more than an automatic response from Joytech tech support before writing. I did get a very rote response with a series of questions asking for particulars, but most of them seemed inappropriate given the detailled email I originally sent them. However, after reading Klunkdm's post above I checked the settings and it fixed the problem. (Thank you, Klunkdm!) In the meantime I had my XBOX 360 plugged into another input, using the microsoft supplied HD component cables which worked fine, including the bright white opening screen (which may be pertinent to the question above about the PS3). Unfortunately, that spot I was hoping to save for a Wii when they are more commonly available. Fortunately, now it is open again!


All in all, no picture corruption issues, no audio issues from any input. I'm very happy with the way it works, but I am definitely a little frustrated waiting for their tech support. Given the apparent error in the manual or frequency of units being selected to the wrong setting, I'm beginning to think they must be innundated with tech support calls. Perhaps they are trying to duplicate the issue?


Anyhow, 8/10 on the selector, 5/10 on the tech support (going down daily, but an accurate response in the next week will boost it back to the 6-7 range). What are your thoughts, it would be nice to let them know there is a solution, but it would also be informative to see if and how long it takes them to respond back with an answer... Eh, I'm a nice guy, guess I'll write that email tomorrow.


----------



## GreenMonkey

I picked up a Psyclone cheap on ebay as I'm not willing to chance a Joytech unit again. Will report back with results.


----------



## Ryguy

steller2k,

which joytech email address did you send your email to? I sent one to "[email protected]" which is the email specified on their website. i havent received a response yet... not even an automated one.


----------



## mr2828

I received my Joytech 540c (xbox 360 style) today from Walmart. It was backordered for a week.


So far all seems good. At first I ran into two problems, one the setting was wrong on the 1st video port - it was putting out s-video. And then 2nd after fixing that I still felt the included special xbox 360 cable made my xbox output look a little darker than normal. So for now I have gone back to using the normal xbox 360 component cable hooked into input 4.


Other than that all seems to look as good as it did before, and the ethernet hub has been tested and works.


----------



## mr2828

After sitting 1 ft away from my tv to really check it out, I want to edit my review to say that I am seeing a very small amount of picture interference. In dark scenes on my cable dvrs and also xbox if I pause it I can usually find a very slightly horizontal bar and also a vertical bar moving across the screen.


Now I have to admit behind my tv set is a rats nest of all kinds of power supplies, some on a ups, some not, and also a mix of component cables, some unshielded, so this could be a problem of my setup. At any rate, from my normal viewing distance I've checked and these flaws are so slight that I can't see them at all, so I'm keep this device. Probably in the future I'll want an HDMI switcher instead, especially if the xbox gets an HDMI port in the future.


----------



## zasy99

Ryguy.


Yup, I have a PS3 and have the same problem, on bright scenes my Joytech 540C drops the signal, damn these video selectors, this is exactly the same reason I just returned my Psyclone PSC01, it kept dropping the signal too.

I also have the Wii and the Xbox360, I haven't tested the 360 much but the Wii is unplayable because the main menu is all white and very bright, as soon as you turn the Wii on the video selector drops the signal, just great, don't companies test these damn units before mass producing them? Straight to TV works fine.

I e-mailed Psyclone about this issue before sending the unit back and never got a response, I'll try e-mailing Joytech and see what they say, I guess this unit will end up going back as well, sigh.... and I just spent $200 on component and optical cables as well.


----------



## Ryguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *zasy99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ryguy.
> 
> 
> Yup, I have a PS3 and have the same problem, on bright scenes my Joytech 540C drops the signal, damn these video selectors, this is exactly the same reason I just returned my Psyclone PSC01, it kept dropping the signal too.
> 
> I also have the Wii and the Xbox360, I haven't tested the 360 much but the Wii is unplayable because the main menu is all white and very bright, as soon as you turn the Wii on the video selector drops the signal, just great, don't companies test these damn units before mass producing them? Straight to TV works fine.
> 
> I e-mailed Psyclone about this issue before sending the unit back and never got a response, I'll try e-mailing Joytech and see what they say, I guess this unit will end up going back as well, sigh.... and I just spent $200 on component and optical cables as well.



i only got the problem on my ps3 when i set the resolution to 720p or 1080i. when it was set to 480p, it worked fine. and so far my wii appears to be working fine as well... i'm guessing because the max resolution it can do is 480p. that's weird that your wii isnt working at all. i have my xbox360 hooked in directly via input1 and so far i haven't experienced any dropped signals.


i've decided for now to keep the box. it's a convenient switcher for my 3 systems. it also has the network ports for my 3 systems and it provides an optical out for the xbox360. to solve the ps3 dropped signal problem, i just have the video hooked directly to my tv and use the joytech for sound. this box will have to do for now until i upgrade my receiver later this year.


----------



## lapplegate

So far i've went through 2 psyclone PS01s and a joytech 245. No luck inputting a Dish 622 DVR and xbox 360. Neither will handle the 622 DVR in HD, keeps dropping the signal. The problem is at commericals or white / bright backgrounds. I have got a manual push button passive switcher that i was told could handel the HD 1080i signal, haven't got it hooked up yet. Has anyone had any experience with this one?
http://www.impactacoustics.com/produ...ebros&keyword=


----------



## mandarb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChrisFul* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I got the Psychlone switcher yesterday, hooked it up an hour ago and holy cripes what a piece of shiat this hunk of junk is. Immediately i noticed several purpleish lines creeping up my screen on all inputs...xbox360, ps2, and cable box. Avoid this piece of trash like the plague. Im going to try that joytech 240c next and if that doesnt work, ill just have to fork over some $$ for a reciever. Meh.
> 
> 
> UPDATE: just got back from the store, returned Psychlone and picked up the Joytech 240C to try that one. ITS EVEN WORSE THAN THE PSYCHLONE. On all of my inputs, it looked like I was watching the screen through a wet paper towel. I guess I should have expected this. You pay a cheap **** price, you get a cheap piece of ****. Avoid both of these jokes of a switch like the freakin' plague.



This post was made awhile ago, but it pretty much describes my situation. It does not seem to be the switch's fault. I have isolated this problem to my hd dvr (TW) cable box SA8300, the interference goes away when it is disconnected from any device that the switch is connected to (tv, receiver) or when the cable signal is lost. It does not neccessarily need to be connected to the switch for this to happen, nor does it matter which output (component, hdmi, coax audio - not optical audio though). Research is showing me that it could be power differences (AC vs DC) between the SA 8300 and the Psyclone PSC01 and could possibly be remedied with a DC Blocker like the Audio Authority 1182 DC Blocker (google it for the store website). If anyone knows anything about this, please reply, I would like to be sure that this item might fix my situation. If someone knows if this is not the problem, please let me know. Thanks.


----------



## macinuk




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PhoenixCoyote* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I picked up the Psyclone at Best Buy this weekend when I bought my Xbox 360. I too was seeing the horizontal scrolling line and distortion on all components I had plugged into the unit. I was about to take it back to Best Buy for a refund. But I took a look at the manual and realized I had messed up on my component video connections. I wrongly assumed the bottom three inputs for each device on the Psyclone were the component video Y, B and R inputs. The first two inputs on the bottom row are component R and B. The rightmost bottom input is one of the analog audio inputs. Component Y is the leftmost input on the top row. When I first hooked up my dvd recorder, xbox 360 and Roku HD1000 to the Psyclone I had the component Y for each plugged into the analog audio jacks. No wonder I was seeing interference! Once I had everything correctly hooked up the horizontal scrolling lines and distortion went away.




This indivdual seems to have corrected his scrolling lines problem as stated above... hope this helps!


----------



## mandarb




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *macinuk* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> This indivdual seems to have corrected his scrolling lines problem as stated above... hope this helps!



I wish a simple mistake like that was the problem, but it appears all of my cables are plugged in properly. Also, the problem goes away when the cablebox (SA 8300) is disconnected so it appears that it's just a strange conflict between it and the switch.


----------



## hammet1982

Does anyone have any problems to report getting a 720p or 480p signal from the Joytech AV Control Center?


----------



## jmayers5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ryguy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Does anyone here have the Joytech Xbox360 (540C) switcher and a PS3? I've been experiencing the signal dropout during very bright images on my PS3 with this unit. I know a very easy way to get it to happen everytime and I'm checking if other people have this same problem.
> 
> 
> It's very easy to duplicate. All you gotta do is go to the PS3 date/time settings and change the time to anywhere around 1pm. For those of you not familiar with the PS3, the background color changes depending on what time of day it is... at night, it's dark... during the day, it's bright. Just so happens that around 1pm the background is bright enough to cause the unit to drop the signal. I hooked my PS3 directly to my tv and no problem at all. You must be in 720p or 1080i to get this to happen. In 480p mode, it doesn't happen.
> 
> 
> It sucks that this unit has this problem. I like the fact that is provides a free optical out for my xbox360.



Yes, I also had this problem. Sucks. I used it as an excuse to rewire my system, and run the PS3 into my Sony Plasma using the HDMI connector instead of my cable box, which I switched to the joytech via component. Fixed my problem, and the cable box signal never drops out.


Furious


----------



## lapplegate

After trying different a/v switches with my VIP622 and xbox 360, I finally went to a manual push button switch. It works just fine. I wanted a remote controlled box so I could put the input switch in the remote macro. Since that was not going so well, I figured I have to be at the xbox to put in and take out games so I might as well hit the switch while I was there.


I picked this box up at a Gamestop store for under $20 and works fine: http://www.gamestop.com/product.asp?product%5Fid=801888 


It also has ethernet connections, that I have not yet tried.


----------



## John1220

I purchased 2 units from Walmart, The 1st one the screen was broken, the 2nd I could not get it to change the to the y/u (component) output, so B/W is what I was getting, so I gave up and went back to the gamestop unit I had for 3-4 years except mine is under the pelican name, and it works fine in 1080i, and do not let anyone tell you it will not work, if you were to open it (the gamestop unit I don't advise, it is very hard to get it back together) there are NO electronic parts, just a circuit board.


Ratings

Box / 10

Manual / 10 (really nice Manual)

540c / 1 (Looks nice)


----------



## GreenMonkey

Well, so far my Pscylone from ebay has eliminated the ghosting problem the Joytech 240c had at 720p/1080i. I did a little quick temporary re-wiring and it seemed to clear it up.


I put everything back to the way it was as changing from the 7-port Joytech to the 4-port Psyclone is likely a job of at least an hour or two - Onkyo Receiver, Dish DVR, Zenith DVB-318 DVD xbox, Wii, ps2, SNES, NES, etc takes a while to wire up/reroute cables - and I can't tackle it with my 1 yr old running around the house.


Maybe this weekend. Looks good so far, though.


----------



## i70x7

Well, I just picked up a Joytech 240c from ebay for 28 bucks, so we'll see how it goes. I don't have any gaming systems, so hopefully I won't run into the problems that have been reported here.


----------



## mr2828

After further consideration, I decided I can't stomach the very minor moving line, even though it's impossible to see from my viewing spot in 95% of video. The problem is 5% of the time I can notice it.


So I'm returning the joytech 540c to walmart. I looked around and found I can get a 5 port HDMI switch from Monoprice for a similar amount of money, and I have an old 4 port ethernet switch around here somewhere that can handle the networking needs of my 360 & PS3. I feel better about using HDMI switchers since it's a digital system - either it will work perfect, or I will get obvious sparklies in the output, but there will definitely not be any of these analog artifacts and other issues with component switchers.


----------



## steller2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ryguy* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> steller2k,
> 
> which joytech email address did you send your email to? I sent one to "[email protected]" which is the email specified on their website. i havent received a response yet... not even an automated one.



That is the one I emailed, and the only one I know of. The original reply took quite awhile and unfortunately, I have yet to receive another reply from them. Additionally, now that I finally have everything hooked up the way I want, I am experiencing the drop out on a bright white screen from the PS2... (seen on FFXII when teleporting and during initial screen). I'm debating if is just one too many cables/connections between the console and the tv. Currently it goes from the PS2 -> JoyTech -> Amp -> TV. I'll try to skip the amp and go straight from the Switch to the TV for the video signal. I wanted to use the amp's ability to upscale composite and s-video inputs to the component cables. However, that was for my SNES which is finally going to be relegated to another room. I also wanted to use the amp's onscreen menu to adjust my sound levels on a new set of speakers I picked up which is now done.


Hmmm... I also picked up a new TV, so maybe that is causing the drop out? My old Sony CRT (1080i) didn't seem to be dropping out on bright screens, but my new Samsung DLP is. The rest of you experiencing this problem: what kind of displays are you using? Could there be a common problem there?


----------



## NicolasG

Ive had the Joytech 240c unit for about 20 days now.

At first I had no problems, then I started to notice the problem on HDTV.

The problem in my case is the Y signal, the sync would cause my Sony tv to reset (i beleive due to the sync signal), but only on very white scenes, or flashes.

Checked this by connecting the Y directly to tv, and leaving Pb/Pr thru the switcher - No problem exhibited (and Pb/Pr dont have a sync, so you dont see a problem in the video)


If I changed the way the cables where wired, instead of Y to Y and Pr to Pr and PB to PB...I connected the Y signal thru the Pr jacks.

This reduced the problem significantly, but i still found occurances of the problem.


After investigating, I found this switcher uses a HEF4051 to switch the signals, a cheap 30 cent IC. (Circuit used in the switcher is available on the net)

The sync signal is most likely the cause of all the weird video problems exhibited by users here.


Well I went about replacing the IC that switches Y to a better, proper, IC. A max 4315 (I used a 4314 while the 4315 arrives - same thing, just 4 ports instead of 8)

After some more work, and research, it was installed.


Results: No more problems on Y, that is no problem at all.










Note: This fix also works for any other switcher based on the 4051 ic's.


If others want to give this a try, let me know and Ill post some sort of guide or instructions.

(Mind you installation is pretty straight forward - match the pins, install a proper v reg and remove some parts from the switcher pcb)


----------



## i70x7

I'd love to see the directions, just in case I experience a problem with my unit.


----------



## Ryguy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steller2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> That is the one I emailed, and the only one I know of. The original reply took quite awhile and unfortunately, I have yet to receive another reply from them. Additionally, now that I finally have everything hooked up the way I want, I am experiencing the drop out on a bright white screen from the PS2... (seen on FFXII when teleporting and during initial screen). I'm debating if is just one too many cables/connections between the console and the tv. Currently it goes from the PS2 -> JoyTech -> Amp -> TV. I'll try to skip the amp and go straight from the Switch to the TV for the video signal. I wanted to use the amp's ability to upscale composite and s-video inputs to the component cables. However, that was for my SNES which is finally going to be relegated to another room. I also wanted to use the amp's onscreen menu to adjust my sound levels on a new set of speakers I picked up which is now done.
> 
> 
> Hmmm... I also picked up a new TV, so maybe that is causing the drop out? My old Sony CRT (1080i) didn't seem to be dropping out on bright screens, but my new Samsung DLP is. The rest of you experiencing this problem: what kind of displays are you using? Could there be a common problem there?



i'm using a 3-year-old Sony wega lcd-rp (dont remember the model #). At first I thought the signal drop was tv related and maybe my tv is old and cant handle the "bandwidth" (problem only happened when i set the ps3 to 720p or 1080i). Then I hooked the playstation directly to the tv and everything works fine... definitely cant be the tv in that case.


But so far I haven't had any problems with my Wii or xbox360. Even with the xbox set to 720p, I haven't been able to get the signal to drop. Could be I haven't found anything "bright enough" yet but I'm willing to tolerate this switcher for now as long as I dont have any problems with these 2 systems.


I am disappointed that after 2 weeks joytech still hasn't responded to my email.


----------



## NicolasG

A quick way to determine if the problem is inded the Y signal do this.


Connect your source to any of the inputs, connect the output to the TV. (As you normally would).


A problem should be visible.


Now, disconnect ONLY the 'Y' signal from the input and disconnect the output 'Y' cable as well, then using a RCA joiner connect the two directly.

(That is, Y is connected directly from source to TV, and Pb/Pr are connected thru the switch)


If the problem has now dissapeared, then replacing the IC used to switch 'Y' will fix your problem.


----------



## Glo8al




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NicolasG* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If others want to give this a try, let me know and Ill post some sort of guide or instructions.
> 
> (Mind you installation is pretty straight forward - match the pins, install a proper v reg and remove some parts from the switcher pcb)



I had the joytech 240 for over a year, always on s-video (had a crap TV) upgraded to a Sony KF42E200A, so I tried the component hookup. Started to gt dropouts, and also noticed it happening when a bright image came on the screen.


I tried with the Y connected directly to the TV and wow, is appears to be fine, no drop outs. (only did this late last night so didn't watch too much TV).


I have emailed JoyTech many times with no answer to see if the 245 fixed the problem, but I am going to give your idea a go.


So a simple guide would be great, when you have the time.

Thx a lot.


edit: where did you get the IC 4315 from?


----------



## NicolasG

Joytech doesnt reply to any emails. Im sure they are aware of the problem (specially since this problem has been widely known in the original circuit long before Joytech's 240c came around)

Im surprised that after several years, companies have not bothered to do such a simple improvement on their design, spend an extra $2 for a better IC and all the problems would be solved. And that nobody else has stepped up to the plate to figure out what was wrong.


The fix, is not as simple as it seems if you arent capable soldering person.


So as to not to 'hijack' this thread, ill start a new one.

Under the AV/Control and Automation's 'Tweaks and Do-it-yourself forum'

Here-> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9576433


----------



## steller2k




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NicolasG* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The fix, is not as simple as it seems if you arent capable soldering person.



Wow, you have me sold. Maybe Joytech should hire you to do their circuit board design. Unfortunately, soldering has never been my forte. I'm not feeling brave enough to venture into the wild and wacky world of warranty invalidation just yet... I'd rather return the blinking thing. But it sure would have been nice if they had just "spend an extra $2."


Thanks for your input, I'll have to mull over my decision now... is there any other location that would have a high enough quality IC to do the switching - say the analog audio ports? (not likely but I'll cross my fingers.)


Edit: closer review of your other topic reveals the answer to my question to be, "No."


----------



## NicolasG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steller2k* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks for your input, I'll have to mull over my decision now... is there any other location that would have a high enough quality IC to do the switching - say the analog audio ports? (not likely but I'll cross my fingers.)



No they dont. They use the same IC for video and audio.

(I found on my unit, that the RED/Pr input/output was less suceptible to the problem. It may be the case in others.)


The soldering isnt as simple, especially removing the existing IC.


----------



## steller2k

NicholasG,


Thanks for your input, provided I can locate my invoice for the Joytech I'll take it back to WalMart - I can return in store despite buying online.


I found the PS2 just doesn't look very good on the big screen, so I'll move it into my room with my "old" TV. I've also found that the XBOX 360 does a better job of upsampling DVDs than the DVD Player, so that opens up another input that I needed. Which leaves me with an extra component input on the Big Screen for the Wii* (if I ever find one in stock). Anything I buy in the future is likely to have HDMI, be it an upconverting DVD player, HD DVD, or PS3/Blu-Ray Player. So with the hassle of dealing with soldering the Joytech 540C just made itself unworthwhile.


* Note - Yes, I understand the Wii will look similar to the PS2, BUT I want it for group activities where as the PS2 is just my personal (FF XII) system anymore.


----------



## GreenMonkey

Well, I rewired my entire A/v cabinet today with the Psyclone. It worked great, without the ghosting of the Joytec 240c - BUT...


I get the out of sync/signal drops problem on bright white screens with our new Olevia 337h 37" LCD. ARGH!!! The Wii was so bad at times on the VGA-component input that it dropped every few seconds - it was a bit better on the dedicated component input.


I had to re-wire the Joytech back in. It may ghost but at least it's not causing screen dropouts.


I'm so frustrated with this. I swear I'd even buy a new $500+ receiver to take care of the problem if they made one with enough component inputs.


There's a few options like the audio authority switcher, zektor, videostorm, etc but none of them have label-able outputs which are very useful for our setup. It's hard enough to keep track of which input has the Saturn &Xbox and which one has the NES &PS2, etc. "Which input is it on the receiver, and which one on the switch?" is getting a bit complicated.


I wish there was a way to tame the output of the Psyclone so it wouldn't go OOS. I figure it's going beyond tolerance boundries on white. Infocus X1s had a problem with this - out of tolerance brightness cauing dropouts - which Infocus was nice enough to fix with a firmware update.


I guess for now I'm just going to do do a couple of HDMI/DVI runs to the projector and try to bypass the Joytec for hi-def sources, leave it running the PS2/Wii/etc. But I'll be adding an xbox360 eventually and more devices...


----------



## NicolasG

If it doesnt break your warranty, mind taking a peek inside that Psyclone ?

See what chips theyr using, be interested if it was 4051's.


I found it almost impossible to find anything with at least 4 component inputs that didnt cost $400+ and in a weird homemade box (oh and that was available in canada).


A cheap way of lowering the brightness is to fake a higher/lower impedence wire, by using a resistor between the soruce and destination, Y (green) in this case. You can only bring it up in resistance (darker).


----------



## GreenMonkey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NicolasG* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> If it doesnt break your warranty, mind taking a peek inside that Psyclone ?
> 
> See what chips theyr using, be interested if it was 4051's.
> 
> 
> I found it almost impossible to find anything with at least 4 component inputs that didnt cost $400+ and in a weird homemade box (oh and that was available in canada).
> 
> 
> A cheap way of lowering the brightness is to fake a higher/lower impedence wire, by using a resistor between the soruce and destination, Y (green) in this case. You can only bring it up in resistance (darker).



No problem, I got it cheap on ebay anyway. Working fulltime/half time school & wife in grad school makes for not a lot of time though. If I get a chance I'll take a screwdriver to it and take some pics.


----------



## slampt

I have the 540C and I must say it is not that great at all.


DVDs (480p) distort like hell. It seems the xbox (xbmc works fine)

and HDTV @ 720p appears to be ok. I have yet to try the wii as I do not have component for it yet.


I am this clost to buying this when it comes out. Audio Authority 1154B


Its expensive I know but I need something that will work. If anyone has any ideas I would appreciate your advice.


I have been offered to swap it for a Joytech 245C but im not sure if its the same chips etc.


Joe.


----------



## Glo8al

Well I've had some luck atm. I was going to do the mod on my 240 to see if that fixed my problem. I then got a email from a Joytech distributer and I have sent my unit in for a straight swap for a 245c.

I guess I will find out if that fixes the problem.

I hope it does.


----------



## NicolasG

Just stumbled upon something very interesting, further proves my findings.

(Was looking for the differences between the 240c and 245c)

http://www.joytech.net/download/pdf/..._Tech_Spec.pdf 


If you read, you will notice it only supports 12mhz bandwith on the video signals, specifically they states 'composite'.


HDTV at 720p and 1080i require 37mhz. So as you can see the 240c simply was not designed properly for HDTV signals.

(480p is 13.2mhz - so it barely even supports this)


----------



## Glo8al

I was advised the 245c was designed to handle 1080i and 1080p (I don't think so but I guess I will find out)

but I hope for me it can handle 720. I don't think they have updated their tech specs for the 245c.

If it doesn't work I guess I will have a look inside


----------



## slampt

Hey Glo8al


Let me know how you go with the 245C, I am probably going to swap my 540C for that.


Regards

Joe


----------



## i70x7

Wow, so I guess I will keep with my current plan and only run DVDs through the changer. I am basically using it as a switcher for my megachangers, and since they are only 480p I guess that should work fine.


----------



## BigRedNY

Whats the best manual switch out there? I dont have enough money for a self powered one, and I'm close to my TV anyway. I just need one that wont lose too much HD quality. Any suggestions or will the $20 gamestop one be sufficient?


----------



## slampt

Edit: Dup post DAMN CACHE!!


----------



## NicolasG

Thanks to slampt, I have an idea of what chips are being used in the 540c.


They still use the HEF4051 chips, but only 2 and they are probably for analog audio.


Theyr using an array of 6 TS5V330 which are 2 Quad SPDT video switches (300mhz bandwith).

I dont know if these are being used to switch video, but most likely they are, in some chain (since theres 6 inputs, but these switches can only do 2x1).


From the specs, these shouldnt exhibit the problems of the 4051 for video, but it all depends on how theyr being used and if theyr properly being shielded.


Let you know more as I investigate.


----------



## videostorm

TS5V330 is a 10 ohm passive switch. They would need to follow it with a high bandwidth amp in the box if they use that device.


----------



## NicolasG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *videostorm* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> TS5V330 is a 10 ohm passive switch. They would need to follow it with a high bandwidth amp in the box if they use that device.



From the looks of it, theyr not using much else to do switching (dont have a unit handy to trace out - going by pictures submitted)

Theyr cascading the TS5V330's in order to switch the video.

I would guess theyr not using an amp (as i cant find any other ic's related to video


They also have 1 UTC 4053 (equiv to 74HC4053) but Im unsure what this is used for.


----------



## videostorm

Well, I guess you CAN use it without an amp. They will have a decent amount of DC loss and they aren't going to get the rated bandwidth.


----------



## slampt

Yeah the 540Cs aren't that good. I'm thinking about actually forking out for a Zekto HDS4.1


But they are so expensive (hopefully someone will figure out a mod for the 540c) *grin*


Joe


----------



## NicolasG

I cant come up with a simple fix for the 540 since theyr cascading the IC's used forswitching.


That is, its not a matter of replacing just 1 chip, but several, and possibly trace cutting and wires everywhere.


Thanks for the feedback videostorm, some insight into the TS5V330's, and why they still fail in this new setup.


----------



## slampt

Ohhh well no biggy, time to save for a more expensive unit (that will hopefully do the job)


Thanks alot for your help NicolasG.


Joe


----------



## videostorm

The Zektor is a good box. They use a high quality relay. It is a passive box, but a well designed one.


My company also makes several models of switchers. Most of them use the max4028 ic for the people who are interested. They run from $160 to >$1000 depending on what you get. Definately not as cheap as Joytech, but we didn't cut corners on the internal electronics.


----------



## AlienAgenda

i just went through this hell myself.

used the joytech 540 and then the Psyclone unit from Best Buy.


Both units failed, the Joytech failed constantly when the HD resolution changed from either channel to channel changes or commercial to recording changes. It was completely useless.


The Psyclone failure is predictable. The Apple Computer commercial where they make fun of the MS PC is on a white background and the box will go nuts and never lock in on a resolution before the commercial is over. So any video with a white background will cause the unit to completely drop the picture. Annoying as hell.


Back to searching for something else.....


ANy suggestions - in the same $ range?


----------



## Glo8al

Well I tried the 245c last night and its going back for another 245c just in case the problem below was a problem with the unit I got.


I had no video dropouts like I was having with the 240c, BUT the colour was crap.

It had a horizontal band of translucent green moving through the image (like a sync problem). So a strip of about 3 or so inches had a green tint to it. You could see the green tint easily in blacks, greys and yellows images (was watching Coach carter on foxtel, and even the wife noticed the green). I tried 3 input ports and 3 different devices (MediaGate, DVD and Foxtel digital). During each test I plugged each device directly into my TV for 10+minutes (which looked fine, no colour problems) then into the Joytech. Each device had the same green tint horizontal band through the Joytech. I didn't try s-video, only component.

So if the replacement still has the same problems, I'm not sure if someone can work out a "fix" for it or if I should just get my 240c back and do the chip replacement?


What do you think?


----------



## Glo8al




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *videostorm* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Zektor is a good box. They use a high quality relay. It is a passive box, but a well designed one.
> 
> 
> My company also makes several models of switchers. Most of them use the max4028 ic for the people who are interested. They run from $160 to >$1000 depending on what you get. Definately not as cheap as Joytech, but we didn't cut corners on the internal electronics.



I was looking at the CSM42, but don't understand why the optical inputs are at the front?

So then I looked at the CSW62 and using the Joytech just as the audio switcher, but that does make a mess and more room needed. Or the CRM62 but but the time it get downunder $$$


----------



## NicolasG

IF anyone with a 245c is willing to take a few snaps of the insides id be grateful.

(I suspect its the same as the 240c)


----------



## slampt

Ok Just a little update,


the 245C is made up with the same components as the 540C so I doubt this will fix my problem.

They have offered to swap the 540C for a 245C so I might give this a shot anyway.


Cheers

Joe


----------



## Glo8al




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NicolasG* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> IF anyone with a 245c is willing to take a few snaps of the insides id be grateful.
> 
> (I suspect its the same as the 240c)



After looking at your photos, I couldn't match it up with the 245c. So might be the same chips with a different layout?

I will take some shots this weekend of the one I'm sending back.


----------



## RassilonZero

I have the audio authority 1154A component switch, and i like it, but im having a big problem with it now:


I have 3 devices connected: xbox360 on ch.1, PS2 (slim) on ch.2, xbox on ch.3. They are all connected with Component video and both analog and optical audio.


The problem: It randomly switches to ch.2 for about a second, then back to whatever source is actually turned on. It even ignores the priority, and will switch from ch.1 in the middle of a game.


I thought it was something with the PS2, but its still doing it even after disconnecting all the ch.2 connections.


I checked the connections, and "reset" the box, but it is still doing it.


Is it a bum box, or is there something i can do to stop this? Its VERY annoying.

Thanks!


----------



## i70x7

I am having a problem with the Joytech 240c and was wondering if this was common on all these boxes?


I have 2 dvd players hooked up to it, and neither of them up convert, but I am getting a very slow scan line on input number 2. Is this something to do with the box, or could it just be a cable problem?


----------



## slampt

Hey Guys,


OK this is the response from Joytech in regards to the 540C


"The issue sounds like he is having the same problem with his DVD playback as some users are having with the Wii, that is that at times the "Y" channel signal is quite strong. We are currently working on an adapter that will add a resistor to this channel's input and will be available to give out to any customers that are having this problem. I know this does not solve the immediate issue, but as soon as we are near completion on the adapter I will let you know and you can then inform any customer's that require this adapter."


They have offered to swap the 540C for a 245C what do you guys think I should do?


Regards

Joe


----------



## shepP

Wait for the adapter, if that doesn't fix it then try the swap. I love the 540c so far, but I haven't taken the time to really check out the picture to see if it degrades at all.


----------



## NicolasG

If their fix will be just a resistor, get ready to see much darker video video. Higher resistance on the cable will yield a darker image (not to mention it will then not match the impedence of the cable)


----------



## slampt

Ok then, well I decided to send it back to them. I emailed Take2 (distributor in AUS) for Joytech, they gave me an address and will swap it for the 245C, the guy I spoke to can't believe it only cost me $60 for the unit (I sent him my reciept) So if the 245C doesn't work I will have to save for a zektor.


Cheers

Joe


----------



## Audio Authority




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RassilonZero* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the audio authority 1154A component switch, and i like it, but im having a big problem with it now:



I think you posted this somewhere else too, and I responded, but here it is again, in case you missed it -


Sounds like you do have a problem with that switch. Give tech support a call at 1-800/322-8346, and we'll help you out.


Trent


----------



## NicolasG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slampt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok then, well I decided to send it back to them. I emailed Take2 (distributor in AUS) for Joytech, they gave me an address and will swap it for the 245C, the guy I spoke to can't believe it only cost me $60 for the unit (I sent him my reciept) So if the 245C doesn't work I will have to save for a zektor.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Joe



I bout my 240c for $80cdn including tax.

The item was listed as 'PS2 AV Switch' in their computer so they sold it to me for that price at FutureShop (best buy still has them at $130)


----------



## i70x7

I bought my 240c for 25+ shipping on ebay, and I will definetely be upgrading when funds are available. The scan lines are enough to drive me crazy.


----------



## 13th shadow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NicolasG* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just stumbled upon something very interesting, further proves my findings.
> 
> (Was looking for the differences between the 240c and 245c)
> 
> http://www.joytech.net/download/pdf/..._Tech_Spec.pdf
> 
> 
> If you read, you will notice it only supports 12mhz bandwith on the video signals, specifically they states 'composite'.
> 
> 
> HDTV at 720p and 1080i require 37mhz. So as you can see the 240c simply was not designed properly for HDTV signals.
> 
> (480p is 13.2mhz - so it barely even supports this)




Nicolas (or anyone for that matter) have you heard of or looked at Impact Acoustics 3-Play switch?
http://www.impactacoustics.com/produ...1002&sku=40324 


On this review here
http://www.bigpicturebigsound.com/im...switcher.shtml 

it states that it has 50MHz of bandwidth. So theoretically this switch should cover all the bases, right?


I was considering purchasing a Zektor HDS4 from someone, it received great reviews from IGN when it came out, but then came upon this box.


Your thoughts, and everyone else's, will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## ernis

Hi,


I got response from Joytech Australia and its crap, no help whatsoever, only marketing bs, like we are testing wide range of devices etc.., until we release there is new ones, so we can't guarantee anything. Seriously, wtf - 540c was designed for xbox 360, why picture quality is worse when using 540c? From what I can tell, they haven't tested this unit with 360 at all, you have to be blind not to see a difference between direct connection and ****box.


Other funny thing, I mentioned to him 2 issues - washed out colors and ghosting. As you see he didn't say anything at all about colors.


This is the response:


Thanks for your email and I am sorry to hear that you have not had a

reply from our technical support in Europe. As you have already read on

some of the forums there has been the odd case of ghosting/fuzzing with

other home AV configurations. Whilst we test as many set-ups as possible

before going to manufacture, as soon as we enter the market technology

has moved on and new AV products have entered the market that we have

been unable to test.


We are constantly reviewing our range to try and ensure the

compatibility of our products remains positive, at this moment in time I

have no real information, as well as what this may entail, but will

gladly keep you posted.


----------



## Glo8al




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NicolasG* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> IF anyone with a 245c is willing to take a few snaps of the insides id be grateful.
> 
> (I suspect its the same as the 240c)



Sorry for the delay, I just got the second unit yesterday (didn't have time to take shots of the first unit.)

This unit was a little different, they put a black foam cover over the chips (see pic on left side were I pulled it off)

I still have no luck with the Joytech










Here is the main pic, if you need close ups of a section, just tell me and I'll do it.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s65/Glo8al/245c.jpg 


Also here are the pics of the problem I'm having with this unit and the green band.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...l/DSCF1598.jpg 
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...l/DSCF1596.jpg 
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...l/DSCF1595.jpg 
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...l/DSCF1594.jpg 


I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND A JOYTECH for any component watching, unless you want to fix the 240 as previous post from NicolasG, or if he work out the 245c problem maybe a 245c fix.


Going to see if I can get a Zektor or similar.

this one looked good
http://www.zektor.com/hds41/index.html


----------



## Glo8al




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slampt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok then, well I decided to send it back to them. I emailed Take2 (distributor in AUS) for Joytech, they gave me an address and will swap it for the 245C, the guy I spoke to can't believe it only cost me $60 for the unit (I sent him my reciept) So if the 245C doesn't work I will have to save for a zektor.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Joe



I'm in the same boat slampt







I guess you have been talking to the same person as me at Take2) I wounder how many 240s he has swapped?


I only got my second replacement yesterday, so I couldn't tell if it would work or not, but I'm guessing you will still have the same problem.


----------



## slampt

Hey Glo8al,


Yup talking to a dude at Take2,

They have shipped the 245C to me now. Should get it in a couple of days.

I will also take some high quality snaps for NicolasG. If the 245C doesn't give me any joy then I will definately look at getting a zektor HDS4.1 however they try and sting you $30USD for another PSU and shipping is a little expensive too...


Anyone stock these locally in AUS?


Cheers

Joe


----------



## Glo8al




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slampt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey Glo8al,
> 
> 
> If the 245C doesn't give me any joy then I will definately look at getting a zektor HDS4.1 however they try and sting you $30USD for another PSU and shipping is a little expensive too...
> 
> 
> Anyone stock these locally in AUS?
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Joe



I know $30US just to have a 240Volt power instead of 110V









I haven't found any in OZ yet but have been looking.


Edit: I guess you don't need to get the power pack as you could get one here. Its only 9V and I think a 1amp would do. I wonder if they take off the $??US if you go no power pack?


----------



## Glo8al

I've sent a email to Zektor to see if there is a dealer in Australia.


There is another option which might be worth a try.
http://www.video-storm.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CSM42 (but optical inputs are at the front.)

or a http://www.video-storm.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CSW62 and use the 245C just as a sound switcher.

CSM42 is $249.99 US

CSW62 is $159.99 US

Don't know how much delivery is to Australia.


----------



## NicolasG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Glo8al* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry for the delay, I just got the second unit yesterday (didn't have time to take shots of the first unit.)
> 
> This unit was a little different, they put a black foam cover over the chips (see pic on left side were I pulled it off)
> 
> I still have no luck with the Joytech
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the main pic, if you need close ups of a section, just tell me and I'll do it.
> http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s65/Glo8al/245c.jpg



Thanks for the picture. The 245C is NOT the same as the 240c.

I can quickly see they knew the problems of the 240 and thus resolved to fix them, but they failed.

The circuit used in the 245 is similar to that of the 540 (360 switcher) which again has the same problems. My guess would be they rushed the 245/540 at about the same time.


The problem with the 245 is the same as stated with the 540. They did use better ic's, the TE330, but they did not use a proper amp on the output, thus limitting the bandwith. (You can even see the location between the HEF4051's for the use of TE330's instead of the HEF4051's. They where expecting problems and had placed the pads for the different chips just in case - but the sound doesnt have problems so the chips didnt need switching)


The 245 wont be fixable in the way the 240 is, as the TE330's are daisy chained. (It may be fixable, but would be a much more complex fix)


A quick snaps of the reverse of the board would be handy.

And of the board on the bottom (the optical one).


----------



## Glo8al




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NicolasG* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> A quick snaps of the reverse of the board would be handy.
> 
> And of the board on the bottom (the optical one).



I have given the unit to a friend to see if it works for him (I don't think it will). When I get it back I'll take a few more photos.


What would be causing the green band? not enough bandwidth?


----------



## NicolasG

Im not technically what would cause the green band, except that there is a synchronization problem. This is due to the synch signals passed on the 'Y' or Green signal not being passed properly.


----------



## videostorm

The green band is likely caused by distortion or clipping of the sync tip. This will disrupt the clamp circuit in the display and generate a signal dependant level error (colored band).


Insufficient bandwidth looks like blurring or a very "soft" image. You lose the fine details and sharp edges are less defined.


----------



## 13th shadow

Anybody have a comment or suggestion? I'd greatly appreciate any pointers.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *13th shadow* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Nicolas (or anyone for that matter) have you heard of or looked at Impact Acoustics 3-Play switch?
> http://www.impactacoustics.com/produ...1002&sku=40324
> 
> 
> On this review here
> http://www.bigpicturebigsound.com/im...switcher.shtml
> 
> it states that it has 50MHz of bandwidth. So theoretically this switch should cover all the bases, right?
> 
> 
> I was considering purchasing a Zektor HDS4 from someone, it received great reviews from IGN when it came out, but then came upon this box.
> 
> 
> Your thoughts, and everyone else's, will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## Glo8al

Well depending on Take5 Australia and JotTech support, I might get a CSW62.

Depends if I can find a audio switcher with more than 4 optical in (have 5 devices that use optical).

Any one got any recommendations?

I with then look at the price of the component switch and optical switch and go from there.

Thx


If there are no 5+ optical switches I'll just use the joytech for optical only (has 4 in)


----------



## videostorm

Glo8al,


We have the CRM62 which has 6 optical inputs. It is a more expensive rack mount unit though....

If it's in your budget it is a great product


----------



## Glo8al

mmm $750AU + del might be stretching the budget a little









Might go with the CSW62 next month (that should be heaps of time for Joytech support to get back to me, which I don't think they will)


Edit: Well after having a problem trying to buy the CSW62 (have sent email to support)

I had a look at http://www.hdtvsupply.com/vistcrcovima1.html 

only $549.00US + $100 of gear (might not be able to get this for OS orders but will ask) looks better, can you get the DVI/HDMI switching addon at a later date and install it yourself?


Time to think about it, might get some money for the 245c off ebay.


----------



## slampt

Ok

I received the 245c this morning. PLugged it in and surprise surprise... Same problems as the 540C, ohh and one more thing, my normal xbox doesn't work through it, if I pull the blue from the component it works but as soon as i plug the blue back in it all stuffs up, cabling is correct...


Very strange, looks like I will be saving for zektor.


Regards

Joe


----------



## Glo8al

I just bought the CSW62 for now, using the 245c as the audio switch (only thing it looks like it can do).

What kind of TV do you have? a 720 or better?

I found my friend didn't seem to have a problem, but he is using a old CRT rearpro, with component.

So far it looks like (only tested 4 sets so far) the HD TVs have problems while non HD seem to be fine using the component.


----------



## slampt

I use a old crt atm haven't bothered with the projector,

my crt is an LG does 720p and 1080i (though i don't use 1080i)


I would rather have a unit that does it all. Ohhh well.


Joe


----------



## thawolfman

So is there really a _reasonably priced_ 4x1 Component Switch with Audio?


Looking through here it looks like everyone's having issues with whatever they are using.


I'm looking to hook up a PS2/Xbox360/Wii/Cable box to my TV that only has 1 Component in







(Samsung LNS3251D)


----------



## AudioMan612

I don't know if it will help but I found this: AVS 4.1 - Component Video / Audio Switch from AVLinx (sorry I can't post links yet, just search Google for AVLinx, it will be the first result). It has four inputs, all with optical coax and analog, a remote (it can be used with universal remotes as well), an RS232 control port and a few other things (you can look them up on the site). Its MSRP is $239.


I stumbled upon this stuff because I ran out of AV inputs on my old TV. I was going to get a nice HD switch like the ones in this thread, but now reading that they all have issues (even if they can be fixed by changing ICs inside), I don't think I'll get one as I'm not that good at sodering and I don't need the HD inputs yet (I was thinking for when I finaly upgrade my TV, only the one in the living room is HD right now). I guess I'll get a regular composite/s-video switch. I wanted one with a remote, and all I've found is the AVS-41i from RF-Link. I can't find anything on it though and I've never heard of the brand so I don't know how good it is. If anyone happens to know anything about that would you mind telling me. I'm sorry if I went a bit off topic, I won't mention this again, so if anyone does know anything about this just PM me, I don't want to upset those active in this thread by getting off topic with my minor delima.


----------



## incstlouis

For $79, you could go with one of these:

Component Switch with Audio


----------



## AudioMan612

Nevermind, I found some others. Thanks though. Found another component switch as well (again this one lacks standard composite and s-video inputs). Model is SW104HD from Cable Electronics. Hope the switches I told you about help.


Update: Found another: Audio Authority Model 1154A


----------



## shepP

"Insufficient bandwidth looks like blurring or a very "soft" image. You lose the fine details and sharp edges are less defined."


This would describe exactly what I noticed when watching The Departed HD DVD. That and some diagonal lines every once in awhile during bright scenes. Sucks the 540c doesn't work as I hoped it to.


----------



## 13th shadow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *incstlouis* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For $79, you could go with one of these:
> 
> Component Switch with Audio




Hello incstlouis, I was wondering if you have actually used this switcher. I have asked a couple of times on here if anyone has, or at least heard of it, and what their opinions are but have had no luck with responses. If you have used it, how well does it work?


----------



## ernis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *incstlouis* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> For $79, you could go with one of these:
> 
> Component Switch with Audio



This one looks really interesting. Amazon has 21 user reviews, all positive and you can get it for $54,- US! Problem is that shipping cost to Australia is whooping 119,- for no apparent reason.


Also, most other places are on backorder and can't find it on ebay either










Can someone from US can buy me one and ship to Australia ?


----------



## tradewinds

I use this one. It works ok, and has discreet codes but the only limitation for me is the 3-inputs.


----------



## ernis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tradewinds* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I use this one. It works ok, and has discreet codes but the only limitation for me is the 3-inputs.



This is what I'm after - "it works ok". Joytech has more inputs, but PQ is terrible.


For me 3 inputs is enough as my tv has 2 component as well.


Now the only problem is where to buy this Impact Acoustic switch from


----------



## ernis

found impact acoustics unit on amazon for 39.99! Got all excited, processed to shipping page and bah! Item cannot be shipped to destination country..


Anyone have any idea why would they not ship it to Australia?


----------



## tradewinds

Sorry to hear. I bought mine from Amazon too. Send me your mailing info and I'll see how much DHL charges me to send to Australia (man I feel Hussey's pain).


----------



## ernis




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tradewinds* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Sorry to hear. I bought mine from Amazon too. Send me your mailing info and I'll see how much DHL charges me to send to Australia (man I feel Hussey's pain).



Thanks mate for your help! I just found that this unit is sold in Australia under different brand, so all is good!


Thanks again!


----------



## Audio Authority




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *slampt* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am this clost to buying this when it comes out. Audio Authority 1154B
> 
> Joe.



It's out now










Trent


----------



## 13th shadow

I went ahead and purchased the Impact Acoustics 3-Play from Buy.com and am happy to report that I see no distortion of any sort while playing my Wii, Gamecube or PS2. I don't have a 360 or any other hd source to check how it handles higher resolutions, but it is working with 480p just fine.


I know it only offers three inputs, but considering the problems others were reporting with other switchers handling 480p alone, I think its a good compromise. The 3-Play plus 12ft premium component cables from monoprice set me back a grand total of $67.


Neither the manual nor the box state any technical specs, but this review was helpful in making my decision. http://www.bigpicturebigsound.com/i...-switcher.shtml 


Here is the link to the product's website, although you might want to get it from Buy.com for less. http://www.impactacoustics.com/prod...=1002&sku=40324 


Hope this helps someone.


----------



## [KYA]Mega

I originally purchased the Psyclone PSC01, and at first it seemed great. However, when I was watching my Sony HDR-HC3 camcorder, when there was a bright picture it made a horizontal line... and in extreme cases, even blanked out the picture entirely.


I then realized that I actually did have enough digital inputs in my receiver, so I didn't HAVE to have the switch do audio too. So I ordered the Video Storm CSW62. I didn't need two outputs, but it was just as cheap as the Audio Authority, plus it is an amplifier.


I just hooked it up today, and it's perfect. Even though I wasn't complaining about the picture on other component inputs, it has cleaned them up as well. Most noticeably on the Wii. So I do recommend this switch if you don't HAVE to mix audio and video.


----------



## Glo8al

Well I finally got the CSW62 installed and setup (been away).

I works without any problems at all. I use the 245c as a audio switch, and programed the CSW62 with the same remote as the 245c so input1=input1 etc.

I wish I had the spare cash for the bigger unit, but am happy with what I have now.

I will get the time to do more shots of the 245c (I hope).

I'm now trying to find IR extenders in Australia (hate being the ass end of the world).


----------



## philba

I know you guys are all going to think I'm nuts but I bought this unit with very low expectations:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...ormat=2&style= 

I mean, hey, at $34 it was worth a try.


Amazingly enough, it works pretty well for ATSC OTA. It passes 720p surprisingly well. I do notice a very slight degradation but no one else did.


Also, the IR learning is nice. I had it learn the corresponding on commands for the input devices and it happily switches to that input when I turn on the devices. Pretty cool.


The only problem I found was that our ancient XBox (480p, I believe) loses some color but I think that might be the cable.


----------



## Maddfrog

I just bought a 240C and hooked up my 360, Wii and PS2 to it. When playing my 360 in 1080i, I have no problems, I do however get a vertical green line on the left side of the screen about 2 1/2 to 3 inches. I've been reading through this thread and saw that others were having the same problem, but I didn't see if a solution was been found.


Is there any fix to this or do I have to suck it up? I was considering getting better quality component cables for the connection between the TV and the 240C would change anything, but unfortunately, it doesn't seem it will.


----------



## AudioMan612

If you can soder this will help I found something that might help:


----------



## AudioMan612

Sorry need to send this so I can finaly post urls.


----------



## AudioMan612

 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=794201 There.


----------



## curtis104

Here is a Multiswitch from Markertek :


A low cost multiple input / multiple output switcher for every home theater. This switcher features HDMI (with Repeater), Component Video, VGA, Composite with Audio and a remote control. It has the highest quality circuitry for no signal loss at any point. Inputs include 3 HDMI, 3 Component Video (RCA), 3 VGA (HD15-F) and 3 Composite with Stereo Audio. Outputs include 1 HDMI, 1 Component Video, 1 VGA, 1 A/V outputs, for HDTV source switching using a single high definition display.



Sounds great but I wonder how is the PQ.


----------



## GreenMonkey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *curtis104* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Here is a Multiswitch from Markertek :
> 
> 
> A low cost multiple input / multiple output switcher for every home theater. This switcher features HDMI (with Repeater), Component Video, VGA, Composite with Audio and a remote control. It has the highest quality circuitry for no signal loss at any point. Inputs include 3 HDMI, 3 Component Video (RCA), 3 VGA (HD15-F) and 3 Composite with Stereo Audio. Outputs include 1 HDMI, 1 Component Video, 1 VGA, 1 A/V outputs, for HDTV source switching using a single high definition display.
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds great but I wonder how is the PQ.



No optical though







Nice selection of inputs otherwise, though.


----------



## Beer Belly




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ernis* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Thanks mate for your help! I just found that this unit is sold in Australia under different brand, so all is good!
> 
> 
> Thanks again!



what's the name in Aust and where can I get it? Thanks!


----------



## GreenMonkey

I ordered the Impact Acoustics 3-play from buy. My Joytech 240c died a few weeks ago.


The Psyclone PSC01 lost sync on white scenes with my Olevia LCD but worked with the projector. The Joytech worked but caused ghosting (visible on the projector, not so much on the 37")...until it died.


I'll report back how the 3-play works since I've had such bad luck with these things.


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## GreenMonkey

Report: the 3-play works great! Unlike the Joytech and the Pscylone, no visible PQ issues.


I found out though that my Joytech 240c just had a dead AC adapter. I subbed in an old NES AC adapter (1.3amps vs 900ma) and now it works great.


So I'm sticking with the Joytech. I need component for too many devices - I would have to have daisy chained 2 3-plays, not to mention run my SNES/NES/Saturn though receiver inputs.


If you just need a few more component inputs I recommend the Impact Acoustics 3-play. Best component switch for PQ so far.


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## tradewinds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GreenMonkey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I need component for too many devices - I would have to have daisy chained 2 3-plays



This is interesting. Has anyone tried it and has it worked daisy chained with no visible signal lost?


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## Ssseth

Wow... just spent a couple hours reading through this entire thread. I was close to ordering a Joytech or Pyclone at the start, I'm glad I kept reading!


I really only need another couple component inputs as long as I can continue to use the component selector in my amp?


I was thinking of using these splitters. Would I have PQ issues if I did that? Could I just buy two of these and effectively double the component inputs in my setup? I'd put them before the switcher in my audio amp (it has two component inputs it switches to one output).


If not I'll probably go with either the Impact acoustics 3-play or Lenexpo . These seem like good options from what I've seen. Any advice on which of the two to pick? I don't think I need the audio switching really. My amp does that for me.


Thanks in advance!


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## 13th shadow




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ssseth* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Wow... just spent a couple hours reading through this entire thread. I was close to ordering a Joytech or Pyclone at the start, I'm glad I kept reading!
> 
> 
> I really only need another couple component inputs as long as I can continue to use the component selector in my amp?
> 
> 
> I was thinking of using these splitters. Would I have PQ issues if I did that? Could I just buy two of these and effectively double the component inputs in my setup? I'd put them before the switcher in my audio amp (it has two component inputs it switches to one output).
> 
> 
> If not I'll probably go with either the Impact acoustics 3-play or Lenexpo . These seem like good options from what I've seen. Any advice on which of the two to pick? I don't think I need the audio switching really. My amp does that for me.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance!




I have the 3-play and am happy with it.


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## Ssseth

I just saw those splitters say they are designed to split out from a device to two displays. I'd be wanting to use them the other way (two devices to one display). As long as I have them hooked up to my amp though wouldn't it help increase the PQ (amplify the signal) and clean up the PQ? I wouldn't plan on having any of the two device on at the same time. Maybe I'd run into cross talk or termination issues? (sorry I'm a little bit of a newbie when it comes to this type of thing). My amp is a Sony STR-DG510.


Oh one other things I've found sort of funny... this thread is pretty huge and a couple times some guy piped in about his Radio Shack component selector switch. No one every commented on it one way or the another on the quality or any issues. So I guess I'm curious about that one as well now.


Thanks again!


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## curtis104




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ssseth* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Oh one other things I've found sort of funny... this thread is pretty huge and a couple times some guy piped in about his Radio Shack component selector switch. No one every commented on it one way or the another on the quality or any issues. So I guess I'm curious about that one as well now.
> 
> 
> Thanks again!



I have the now discontinued Component Switch from Radio Shack. It has 4 inputs and 2 outputs for component. For Audio it has Stereo and SPDIF 4 input and 2 output. It works great for me. No discernible loss in PQ. You can still find them in selected Radio Shack. I just purchased a 2nd one while I was in Greensboro, NC. I believe the price was $30.00.


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## GreenMonkey

I ran a cheap composite video switch from somewhere, it might have been radioshack. It worked perfectly since it was purely a mechanical switch (no remote, no digital anything).


IMO the 3-play worked perfectly. Go with that. Great switch for ~$30-$40 for purely component video switching.


If you need to *split* component video to 2 different devices I recommend the Inday HDDA-2. That's what I use - I found it recommended here.

http://www.inday.com/hdda2/hdda2.htm


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## fallenturtle

I only need to switch component video, not audio, and I came across this...

http://www.hdtvsolutions.com/video_switch_box.htm 


Think this guy is smoking crack, or would it be fairly safe since its purely mechanical?


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## GreenMonkey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fallenturtle* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I only need to switch component video, not audio, and I came across this...
> 
> http://www.hdtvsolutions.com/video_switch_box.htm
> 
> 
> Think this guy is smoking crack, or would it be fairly safe since its purely mechanical?



Just a mechanical switcher. All it is doing is basically switching cables for you. Like I said, I used something similiar to that for quite some time. Should work perfectly. Good if you don't need any audio switching, remote control, etc.


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## fallenturtle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GreenMonkey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just a mechanical switcher. All it is doing is basically switching cables for you. Like I said, I used something similiar to that for quite some time. Should work perfectly. Good if you don't need any audio switching, remote control, etc.



Yea, my only concern was that the connections may be such low quality that they introduce noise or ghosting into the image. But I already have one, so no money lost to at least try it.


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## Ramzi88

I know this has been asked many times on this thread before but I would like to know what you guys think of the pelican component selector 2.0. I live in Canada and I can't seem to find any (literally) component switches at stores so I had to resort to online retailers. I found the pelican selector 2.0 for $100 (with shipping and everything) at shop4tech (since they are one of those rare websites that ship to Canada) but I'm not too sure if its such a good idea. I need one badly but I don't want a nonfunctional device (since I read many bad and many good reviews) so what do you guys suggest. Is it a good choice or do you guys suggest something else for a similar price which is available in Canada. Thanks a lot, I appreciate it.


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## SpartanTS

Are there any av switchers out there with VGA IN/OUT? I'm desperately looking for one with this configuration.


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## crispytreat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fallenturtle* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I only need to switch component video, not audio, and I came across this...
> 
> http://www.hdtvsolutions.com/video_switch_box.htm
> 
> 
> Think this guy is smoking crack, or would it be fairly safe since its purely mechanical?



I use a similar switch for a 25ft component run with zero problems.


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## GreenMonkey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SpartanTS* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are there any av switchers out there with VGA IN/OUT? I'm desperately looking for one with this configuration.



JUST VGA switching, or do you mean VGA and component? If the latter, that's going to be pretty hard to find/expensive. VGA switchers, though, are cheap.


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## Ssseth




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GreenMonkey* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just a mechanical switcher. All it is doing is basically switching cables for you. Like I said, I used something similiar to that for quite some time. Should work perfectly. Good if you don't need any audio switching, remote control, etc.



Haha, awesome I never thought of something like that. On the cheap it would work out I suppose.


I'm pretty sure the component splitters would work for my needs since the amp should hopefully help clear up the signal if the splitter made it a little weak. I'd prefer the remote... why? Because what's the point of my Harmony remote if I have to get off my lazy arse evertime I want to switch devices! Hehe.


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## GreenMonkey




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Ssseth* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Haha, awesome I never thought of something like that. On the cheap it would work out I suppose.
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure the component splitters would work for my needs since the amp should hopefully help clear up the signal if the splitter made it a little weak. I'd prefer the remote... why? Because what's the point of my Harmony remote if I have to get off my lazy arse evertime I want to switch devices! Hehe.



Ditto


For me it is more a matter of my wife, stepmom (aka the babysitter), etc knowing how the hell to turn stuff on.


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## amigabill

I saw the Psyclone PSC01 selector at Best Buy and grabbed it. But it seems to be an unmarked open-box item. The plasticwrap on the remote is obviously torn and retaped, and there's no user manual. Was the only one there so if it works I'd rather keep it, but is there stuff in the user manual that would be nice to know? Anyone have a pdf or something? I can't seem to find a company web site for support or downloads of such things on google. Any hints? Thanks.


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## NicolasG

Anyone know of a place that still has/sells the Joytech 240c?

Now that I can fix em, I want to get one for my other room, but its impossible to find. Best Buy still has the SKU on file, but no stock (and none to be ordered)


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## tradewinds

Nicolas, how do you fix them? PM me. I may have an extra one I can sell.


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## NicolasG

Yes. I posted about the fix earlier, a couple months back now. Its on AVS as well.


But Im looking for brand new, and local if possible. Not used, unless i cant find it new anywqwhere.


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## tradewinds

Do you mind providing a link to it? I am looking back but I have not found a step-by-step instructions. Was it step by step?


UPDATE: I think I found it --> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9576433


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## tradewinds

I take it, this one on buy.com is not the 240C

http://www.buy.com/prod/joytech-univ...201975194.html 


nor is this one from wallymart
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=4244418


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## NicolasG

The one on buy.com is not the 240c/245c, it is the european version (which came before the 240c). The 240c has 6 component inputs and 4 optical inputs. Normally, the AV control center 2 is not the 240c, but the one on the wallmart page IS the 240c (even though its labeled as av control center2).


To bad im in canada, walmart canada doesnt seem to carry it :-(


Rear of the 240: http://www.joytech.net/images/produc...ntrol_240V.jpg


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## tradewinds

seems quite confusing. The wallymart one says 7 inputs. Is the description there correct?


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## NicolasG

i think the wallmart one is correct. as i have yet to see a av control center 2 thats silver.


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## shadow_zero

Have there been any updates in the Joytech AV Control Center 245C?

I wonder if I should try it again, or that I will remain having the problems like before (screen scrambling/falling out).


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## NicolasG

updates in what way?


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## shadow_zero

Updates that fix the problems with component video.


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## NicolasG

well joytech never updated the procduct itself, they did comee out with a new model (for the xbox 360) and supposedly they mentioned something about an addon external piece to fix the issues, but i never heard any more of it.


the only real fix is to replace the 'y' mux chip for a better one.


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## disker72

I wonder what it would take to build a high quality switch box? I think I have the basics down, the only thing would be how do I incorporate the TOSLINK connectors and where would I get them? I've got a little free time so I think that this is something I might like to try out...


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## NicolasG

Yeah Ive had that idea for many months, even years. Just never really saw a means of distributing it. Otherwise Id have all the skills nessesary, and fabrication means.


When its modularized it makes things very easy.


If you are truly interested in such a project, even just as a hobby DIY. Start another thread and Ill add some comments and ideas. Might be fun.


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## MaverickHunterX

Hi everyone. I just spent the last couple hours reading this entire thread after experiencing the well-known screen-distorting/dropping issue with bright images and the Psyclone switcher.


I bought the Psyclone months ago and only had the problem occasionally with my Wii (and strangely not at all with my 360), but once I bought my PS3 last week and ran it through the Psyclone, the problem became unbearable; the Psyclone would distort or drop the image entirely at the slightest hint of a bright image running in 1080i (it would not happen running in 480p, of course). None of these problems exist when I wire my PS3 directly into my TV, which unfortunately only has one set of component outs.


Anyway, after searching high and low for a solution, it seems that the most positive experiences seem to be with the Impact Acoustics 3-play switcher. I'm very, very close to ordering one (the Psyclone obviously will not work with my PS3), but I was curious whether or not anyone here can speak for the 3-play, having used it with all three current-gen consoles.


Basically I will be using the 3-play to wire my Wii, 360, and PS3 via component cables to my TV (a 61" 4:3 Mistubishi HD 1080). I'll be outputting my Wii in 480p and my 360 and PS3 in 1080i.


Can anyone speak for the 3-play having used it under these (or similar) conditions? I'm desperately looking for a solution to the bright-screen image-dropping issue with the Psyclone, and this is the closest I've found.


Thanks!


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## GreenMonkey

I mentioned the 3-play a few pages back. The Psyclone PSC01 worked fine for my projector but I got the image dropping on white problem on my LCD. The 3-play worked perfectly.


I got tired of messing around with component switchers and picked up an Onkyo TX-SR605 for that plus several other reasons - 2 HDMI and 3 component provided me with just enough inputs to work with. I kept the 3-play in the closet in case I decide to get a PS3 in a few years - I'll need it again, then as I'll be out of inputs.


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## tradewinds

did anybody confirm if you can stack daisy chain these 3-plays?


----------



## salmonsc

I've read through this entire thread and am now completely confused! After initially thinking I should go for either an Psyclone or a Joytech pages later they seem problematic.


However much of this thread is several years old - what do people recommend now? Are there new products or updates worthy of consideration?


I am looking for a relatively affordable component switch to connect several HD inputs (including digital media player & DVD player - no game boxes) to an Arcam AVR300 & then a Sony Wega LCD projection HD TV. Any recommendations?


Does anyone know whether the Psyclone or the Joytech work in this system without creating PQ problems?


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## HD is the Best

I bought the Pysclone PSC01BK component source selector from Best Buy to be able to toggle from my Motorola HD DVR (Verizon Fios) and Sony HD DVR (over the air HD). Both components work well when plugged directly into the TV, but the Sony has no picture when both components are plugged in the Psyclone. I bought new cables, checked all connections, etc.


Apparently Psyclone is having a problem with interference with certain devices. I have pasted the email I received today -- the advice from the company is plug the device directly into the TV and don't use the switcher!

_From: psyclonegamer [mailto:[email protected]]

Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2008 10:20 AM

To:

Subject: RE: PsycloneGamer.com: Tech Support - Model #Psyclone PSC01 Source Selector (2/6/2008 9:38:03 AM)


Hello,


Thanks for choosing our great gaming products. We have noticed that certain devices plugged into the switcher may cause some channel interference across the entire device. Our engineers are working hard to try and solve this compatibility issue and we apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused. The only solution offered currently is to unplug any cable or satellite box from the switcher and plug it directly into the TV. Please let us know if this solution does not help or you have any more questions.


Thank you!


Psyclone Gaming Customer Service_


I am going to try the Impact - 40324 - 3-Play Component Video Digital Audio Selector available through Cables To Go for $48.24 from Amazon.com.


Of 81 posts on Amazon, it had an average customer review of 4.5 out of 5.


Customer Reviews

81 Reviews

5 star: (55)

4 star: (18)

3 star: (5)

2 star: (0)

1 star: (3)


Seems like from other forums that AVS members have had good experience with this as well. For example, the following comment was under the title: Component Video Switcher recommendations wanted

_GreenMonkey

06-13-07, 10:11 AM

Just thought I would give an update, the 3 way Impact Acoustics switcher arrived today, hooked up the HD DVD player and my Samsung tuner (since both require optical connection) and its working great, thanks for everyone's input, I love how you can get valuable feedback here on AVS, should have asked here before I bought in the first place







_


If you do a search of Impact 3-Play Selector, other positive comments are made as well.


Anyone have a bad experience with the Impact 40324 3-way selector?



Thanks and sorry for the long post.


----------



## elmalloc

I use Audio Authority equipment. A little pricier, but auto switching 1080p is a must.


I own their HDMi switcher, and their component video/optical/digital audio switcher.


-ELmO


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## flyin_frenchman

For the cost conscious, I Just picked the Pelican 2.0 mentioned in this thread from Amazon for around $54 (silver plate or +$20 more dollars for black!). At least for NTSC stuff, it is great. 6 inputs (5 in back 1 in front). Haven't tried the component yet. But hands down better than the $39 4X1s you see around.

Comes with a decent remote, also handles a few optical audios, and .. curiously a switched Ethernet... perhaps useable if you really want to secure your connection. You certainly wouldn't want to accidentally switch the ethernet inputs of the panel during a firmware update!!


A nice problem solver, well priced. (Shipped extremely fast too)


Thanks to all on this thread for the many tips.


----------

