# AVS Official Mitsubishi 3DC-1000 3D Starter Pack Topic!



## ChrisHawks

I was lucky and had to be in Vegas this week for business. I acquired the much anticipated Mitsubishi 3DC-1000 3D Starter Kit from an RC Willey store there.


I have played with the new toys for a day now. I will attempt to give a review of the components and the overall 3D effect with my home theater system, thus far.


My 3D system:

Mitsubishi WD-73737 73 DLP HDTV

DirecTV HR-24 500 Satellite DVR receiver

Panasonic DMP-BDT300 Bluray player

Mitsubishi 3DA-1 Converter box and remote

Mitsubishi IR emitter Model #SSG-2100ME/ZA

Mitsubishi Active shutter 3D glasses Model #SSG-2100MG/ZA


As many of you know, the Panasonic DMP-BDT300 Bluray player already does native checkerboard output, so this device required no converter box to interface with the TV.


The question I wanted first answered was this: The directions for connecting the 3DA-1 adaptor show the device needing conversion to checkerboard (in my case, the DirecTV receiver) connecting to the 3DA-1, and the 3DA-1 connecting to the TV. This makes obvious sense. BUT, then the instructions indicate that you should connect the IR emitter to the output on the 3DA-1. I thought this odd, because then only one device at a time could be made to function with the Mits glasses, requiring a HDMI 1.3 switcher for multiple devices, and all 3D device needing to loop through the adaptor. I only have one other 3D device, the Panny Bluray, and it does not need to go through the 3DA-1 for checkerboard. So I remembered the IR emitter port on the back of the TV set itself, and thought I would try connecting the IR emitter there, hoping for a more global solution. The upshot: This approach DOES work! So you won't have to be plugging and unplugging your IR emitter, or worry about getting a HDMI switcher if your Bluray player outputs checkerboard. Do note though, that for some reason, the TV may turn off the 3D mode, when you are switching between sources. After you have switched from Satellite or cable viewing to 3D DVD, verify that the TV is still in 3D mode (no reverse needed).


Let's get to the good stuff. The adaptor seems well constructed and sturdy with it's own remote. It's simple to connect one device at a time for checkerboard conversion to your HDTV. The kit even comes with an extra HDMI cable. Nice touch.


The IR Mits 3D glasses are wonderfully light weight. They also come with a nice microfiber cleaning cloth. I had previously owned some XPand X102s for 3D Bluray watching, and I'll tell you, the Mits glasses weigh half as much, and are very much more comfortable. I easily watched Coraline last nite without any nose fatigue. The Mits glasses themselves appear to be a clone of the Samsung SSG-2100AB glasses. And actually, I had borrowed a pair of the Samsung glasses from a friend, I can report to you that the Mits glasses are indeed IDENTICAL in every way and function to the Sammy 3D battery glasses. Upshot: Go get yourself the Samsung glasses on eBay and save yourself a bundle, until the Mits glasses drop in price. They are the same glasses!


Mits 3D glasses performance with the IR emitter. I played around with various locations for the emitter, on top of the set, to the lower corner, etc. There doesn't seem to be any difference where I locate the emitterit all works great! The glasses themselves, are faintly green tinted, and seem to work very well with the emitter. I did not discern any issues with connectivity as I moved around my home theater (my furthest seating is about 12 feet from the TV). At no point side to side, was there an issue either. The glasses don't display any noticeable flutter (detectable lens switching). Very easy on the eyes. Yes, they do cut down on light somewhat, but that's what is so great about a DLP displayit can be very bright if you want it to be.


The DirecTV receiver now allows unfettered access to the 3D channelsno issues. I watched part of a Peter Gabriel concertwonderful! Then I verfied that my pre-recorded DVR World Cup matches played without issues. I know what I'll be watching this weekend!!


On to 3D Bluray on the Panny DMP-BDT300 : Blurays look great with the Mits glasses. I viewed parts of Cloudy, M vs. A, and Coraline. All were lovely to behold on the system. Did I mention how comfortable the glasses were? Are they as sturdy as the Xpand's. No. Howeverlet's put it this way. Do you let anyone throw your eyeglasses around or abuse them. I doubt it. Just keep an eye on the kids with these and they'll be fine. If you can't control your little monsters, you'd better get the Xpands. Note about X102s and Mits IR glasses. I don't have access to the X102's any longer as I returned them due to their overall heaviness and uncomfortable design for me personally. However, I can verify that I did have to use the 3D REVERSE setting on my TV when using the XPands to get the display correct. So I can assume that you cannot mix the Xpands and Mits glasses during a single viewing, as the Mits glasses do not require the TV REVERSE setting for 3D viewing.


What else can I say? My verdict: Mitsubishi has a great product on it's hands. A very nice intro to 3D. Now if they can just get the kit and adapter into wide release, everyone will be happy! I know I am thoroughly satisfied with it.


Let me know if you have questions. I'll try to answer them!


---Chris


----------



## eddy_winds

Great review


----------



## tlogan6797

Thanks for the great review.



> Quote:
> (my furthest seating is about 12 feet from the TV).



Is that the furtherest you can get back from the screen? In other words, do you have an open floorplan that you can move further back and test the max distance the signal travels? I guess that is my one concern about whether to use DLP-link or IR....the distance. I have an open room plan and some people in the back might be 20 feet or so from the screen. From what I've read the distance on the DLP-link glasses is up to 40 feet.


----------



## Athlon646464

Thank you for taking the time to do what you did and write it up. Great job!


----------



## ChrisHawks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tlogan6797* /forum/post/18883473
> 
> 
> Thanks for the great review.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that the furtherest you can get back from the screen? In other words, do you have an open floorplan that you can move further back and test the max distance the signal travels? I guess that is my one concern about whether to use DLP-link or IR....the distance. I have an open room plan and some people in the back might be 20 feet or so from the screen. From what I've read the distance on the DLP-link glasses is up to 40 feet.



My home theater is wider than it is deep. But to verify for you, I did walk out of the room through french doors on the side, and did still maintain a sight line with the IR emitter and the TV. I measured that distance at 30 feet, and there was NO PROBLEM at all losing IR sync. I could still clearly see the 3D effect on the TV. To verify, I switched the glasses on and off to make sure I seeing things truly. All good!


----------



## bornagain1

Fantastic write up on the Mitsubishi 3DC-1000 3D Starter Kit, ChrisHawks! Thanks for the thorough info. I appreciate the adviseability of using the Panny Blue ray player too as I am going to purchase one today!


----------



## quickfire

Chris do you know anybody that has a PS3 that would let you borrow it to test it?


IF THE PS3 displays the 3d demo games correctly ......im may be buying a DLP 82738 instead of the Samsung PN637000.


BIGGER IS BETTER....i know the picture want be as sharp as a plasma,but it should be as sharp as my Epson 8100 pj shouldnt it?


----------



## bori

Can u hookup the adapter after your 1.3 receiver?


----------



## quickfire




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bori* /forum/post/18883670
> 
> 
> Can u hookup the adapter after your 1.3 receiver?



yeah try that too ;-)


----------



## ChrisHawks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bori* /forum/post/18883670
> 
> 
> Can u hookup the adapter after your 1.3 receiver?



Yes! The user's guide shows using a HDMI 1.3 receiver as a switching source. So that is what Mits is recommending to use multiple 3D sources with it.


----------



## quickfire




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChrisHawks* /forum/post/18883689
> 
> 
> Yes! The user's guide shows using a HDMI 1.3 receiver as a switching source. So that is what Mits is recommending to use multiple 3D sources with it.



im crossing my fingers hoping it works!!!!


----------



## Martinefski

Are you saying you in fact used the samsung glasses with this emitter? That would be great if you did!


----------



## trumperZ06









Thanks for reporting your results, Chris !!!

The Panny 3D Blueray player is a natural choice for this setup.








That's what we who have Mitsu 3D ready DLP sets were hoping for.








With the Texas Instruments 3D info and a fair amount of optimism, that's what I expected.


----------



## bori




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *quickfire* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> im crossing my fingers hoping it works!!!!



I want to known if my onkyo 805 will pass full 3d to the adapter.


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChrisHawks* /forum/post/18883398
> 
> 
> The IR Mits 3D glasses are wonderfully light weight. They also come with a nice microfiber cleaning cloth. I had previously owned some XPand X102s for 3D Bluray watching, and I'll tell you, the Mits glasses weigh half as much, and are very much more comfortable. I easily watched Coraline last nite without any nose fatigue. The Mits glasses themselves appear to be a clone of the Samsung SSG-2100AB glasses. And actually, I had borrowed a pair of the Samsung glasses from a friend, I can report to you that the Mits glasses are indeed IDENTICAL in every way and function to the Sammy 3D battery glasses. Upshot: Go get yourself the Samsung glasses on eBay and save yourself a bundle, until the Mits glasses drop in price. They are the same glasses!



Sweet, since this this is now fact I'm about to sell my X102's and get some Sammy glasses. I find the X102 heavy and to big for my head and want to keep sliding off.


----------



## quickfire

yeah I have a ONKYO 606 1.3 hdmi.


----------



## pjb16

I'm very disappointed about the xpands not working with the Mits at the same time. I'll have to sell one of the sets (or trade with someone) I guess, or figure out a way to wear them upside down.



> Quote:
> Do note though, that for some reason, the TV may turn off the 3D mode, when you are switching between sources. After you have switched from Satellite or cable viewing to 3D DVD, verify that the TV is still in 3D mode (no reverse needed).



It's been my understanding that when you change sources the 3D setting is on/off depending on how you last had that source set up. For example I used my Panny 350 (hdmi 3) w/3D mode on, but then went to directTV (hdmi 1) and it was off, but it was back on when I went to HDMI 3 the next time.


----------



## pjb16




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenisG* /forum/post/18883764
> 
> 
> Sweet, since this this is now fact I'm about to sell my X102's and get some Sammy glasses. I find the X102 heavy and to big for my head and want to keep sliding off.



If you have 2 pair I will trade you my Mits pair when I get the kit.


----------



## ChrisHawks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Martinefski* /forum/post/18883709
> 
> 
> Are you saying you in fact used the samsung glasses with this emitter? That would be great if you did!



I did , in fact, use the Samsung SSG-2100AB glasses with the Mits system, and they are identical and perform just as well as the stock Mits glasses. They are obviously from the same vendor, and for all intents and purposes, are the same glasses. Identical in every way.


--Chris


----------



## quickfire

Chris do you have a 1.3 audio receiver?


----------



## danzio2020

Hey Chris would you be able to post a pic of the IR Emitter? Would like to see what it looks like compared to other emitters (Nvidia & IO).


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pjb16* /forum/post/18883821
> 
> 
> If you have 2 pair I will trade you my Mits pair when I get the kit.



I have 3, so I just might take you up on that. 2 for 2 that is.


----------



## ChrisHawks

No I do not. I use a Harman Kardon AVR 7200. Sorry!


----------



## bubba1972

How do you have your BD player and the adapter with your satellite input connected to different ports? I thought HDMI 4 was the only port that supported 3D in the TV and would require having the adapter plugged into it.


----------



## ChrisHawks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *danzio2020* /forum/post/18883920
> 
> 
> Hey Chris would you be able to post a pic of the IR Emitter? Would like to see what it looks like compared to other emitters (Nvidia & IO).



Sure! I'll try to attach some pics of the emitter.


----------



## ChrisHawks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bubba1972* /forum/post/18883988
> 
> 
> How do you have your BD player and the adapter with your satellite input connected to different ports? I thought HDMI 4 was the only port that supported 3D in the TV and would require having the adapter plugged into it.



My Mits is letting me use HDMI port 1 and 2 for my 3D Bluray player and satellite/Mits converter respectively. No issues.


----------



## ChrisHawks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChrisHawks* /forum/post/18883935
> 
> 
> No I do not. I use a Harman Kardon AVR 7200. Sorry!



....have a 1.3 audio receiver!


---C


----------



## Jesse E

" If you can't control your little monsters, you'd better get the Xpands. "


I have several of those monsters, LOL










I would imagine that if the Samsung SSG-2100AB glasses worked perfectly, then the Samsung SSG-2200KR (kids model) should also.....


Will have to wait and test until Amazon ships.........


----------



## jjknatl

Chris, Thanks for the review. Please tell me there are no rainbows with the mits glasses. Really hoping that problem is only with x102s.


----------



## JamesN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bubba1972* /forum/post/18883988
> 
> 
> How do you have your BD player and the adapter with your satellite input connected to different ports? I thought HDMI 4 was the only port that supported 3D in the TV and would require having the adapter plugged into it.



I believe that some (possible all?) of Samsung's DLP RPTVs required the 3D source device to be plugged into a specific port. I don't believe the Mits sets have this restriction.


On my Mits set, I can engage 3D mode on any of the 3 HDMI inputs.


----------



## bhalbower




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChrisHawks* /forum/post/18883863
> 
> 
> I did , in fact, use the Samsung SSG-2100AB glasses with the Mits system, and they are identical and perform just as well as the stock Mits glasses. They are obviously from the same vendor, and for all intents and purposes, are the same glasses. Identical in every way.
> 
> 
> --Chris



What did you use for an IR Emitter with the Samsung glasses? Might buy them because they are cheaper, but I will need to get an Emitter


----------



## JamesN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChrisHawks* /forum/post/18884009
> 
> 
> Sure! I'll try to attach some pics of the emitter.



Chris, is the red light on the emitter on constantly or only when 3D mode is enabled ion the set?


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhalbower* /forum/post/18884054
> 
> 
> What did you use for an IR Emitter with the Samsung glasses? Might buy them because they are cheaper, but I will need to get an Emitter



Emitter comes with the kit.


----------



## Lee Stewart

What Disney content is on the included 3D BD?


----------



## bhalbower




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenisG* /forum/post/18884196
> 
> 
> Emitter comes with the kit.



Chris mentioned that he used the Samsung SSG-2100AB glasses before he got the kit. I wanted to know what he used for an IR Emitter because the Samsung SSG-2100AB glasses don’t come with an IR Emitter.


----------



## ChrisHawks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18884046
> 
> 
> Chris, Thanks for the review. Please tell me there are no rainbows with the mits glasses. Really hoping that problem is only with x102s.



No rainbows noted using Mits glasses.


Very little ghosting as well...depends on source. Sometimes I see a very slight ghosting on certain shots viewing World Cup from ESPN 3D/ DirecTV. No appreciable ghosting watching 3D Bluray.


----------



## ChrisHawks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JamesN* /forum/post/18884055
> 
> 
> Chris, is the red light on the emitter on constantly or only when 3D mode is enabled ion the set?



Red light is only on when 3d mode is enabled and TV is fed valid 3D source.


----------



## ChrisHawks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhalbower* /forum/post/18884407
> 
> 
> Chris mentioned that he used the Samsung SSG-2100AB glasses before he got the kit. I wanted to know what he used for an IR Emitter because the Samsung SSG-2100AB glasses don't come with an IR Emitter.



Sorry for any misunderstanding. I only got to use my neighbors Samsung glasses WHEN I got the Mits 3DC-1000 kit (yesterday). I don't know of a compatible IR emitter other than what comes with the Mits Starter Kit. I did list the part number earlier on the original post. You might call Mits and see if it's available as a standalone item.


--Chris


----------



## ChrisHawks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lee Stewart* /forum/post/18884308
> 
> 
> What Disney content is on the included 3D BD?



Hi Lee,

I'll check out the Disney Sampler DVD tonite, and give a detailed description tomorrow. Thanks!


----------



## Malouff

Thank you for the review.

Does your neighbors Samsung TV also use a emitter or is it built into the TV?

If it is a standalone can you borrow it to see if it works with the Mitsubishi?


----------



## ChrisHawks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Malouff* /forum/post/18884615
> 
> 
> Thank you for the review.
> 
> Does your neighbors Samsung TV also use a emitter or is it built into the TV?
> 
> If it is a standalone can you borrow it to see if it works with the Mitsubishi?



Samsung emitter built into TV. You might shoot Micheal Sparks at this site an e-mail. He told me that their emitter (also sold on eBay) is being redesigned and a future release may be compatible with the new Mits/ Samsung glasses.

http://www.3dmagic.com/


----------



## saxophone4

Does anyone think that if the Samsung SSG-2100AB work, that the 2200AR and KR wouldn't work? They are just the rechargeable models. I would think they would be the same, but does anyone think there would be a reason that they wouldn't?


Thanks guys


----------



## Slydragon

Borrow a PS3 and test it


----------



## ChrisHawks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Slydragon* /forum/post/18885764
> 
> 
> Borrow a PS3 and test it



I'll see what I can arrange. Are all of the PS3's 3D capable?




--Chris


----------



## advocate2

I tried all of the current Sony PS3 games today on my 73735 with adapter kit. Except for the game Pain, all worked fine with the adapter and the PS3. I assume once the new update is released, 3d BDs should also play fine.


----------



## quickfire

thanks advocate......exactley what I needed to hear!!!!


Do you have a 1.3 receiver that you could plug the adaptor to then adaptor to tv...


1.3 receiver -> adaptor -> tv!!!!!


This should work shouldnt it?


----------



## bori




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *quickfire* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> thanks advocate......exactley what I needed to hear!!!!
> 
> 
> Do you have a 1.3 receiver that you could plug the adaptor to then adaptor to tv...
> 
> 
> 1.3 receiver -adaptor -tv!!!!!
> 
> 
> This should work shouldnt it?



Yes I want to know this too.


----------



## advocate2

I have a Yamaha RX-V565, 1.3, 7.1 sound system. I ran the PS3 into the Yamaha with a 1.3 cable and then the Yamaha through the adapter to the 73735. Everything worked fine!!!!! The games I played all had great 3D. No assurances how things will work with the new BD firmware update for the PS3 coming in September.


I then hooked up my Directv HR23 into the Yamaha with a 1.4 cable and got mixed results. The soccer match I had previously recorded played fine in 3D. But when I tried to play the other 3D content I had recorded, I received the message that the content could not play because the TV was not 3D compatible. It must have something to do with the Directv detection system.


Any thoughts or suggestions?


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *advocate2* /forum/post/18886550
> 
> 
> I have a Yamaha RX-V565, 1.3, 7.1 sound system. I ran the PS3 into the Yamaha with a 1.3 cable and then the Yamaha through the adapter to the 73735. Everything worked fine!!!!! The games I played all had great 3D. No assurances how things will work with the new BD firmware update for the PS3 coming in September.
> 
> 
> I then hooked up my Directv HR23 into the Yamaha with a 1.4 cable and got mixed results. The soccer match I had previously recorded played fine in 3D. But when I tried to play the other 3D content I had recorded, I received the message that the content could not play because the TV was not 3D compatible. It must have something to do with the Directv detection system.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts or suggestions?



Guessing a little here, but some of the VOD 3D stuff from D* was missing the proper flag and folks were getting errors like you are describing. Where was that other 3D stuff from?


----------



## walford

Chris,

Is is possible that if you do connect the emitter to the adapter instead of directly to the TV that you could then reverse the eye signal in the adapter? If yes then I would assume that you could run DLP_link glases and emitter glases at the same time without problems.


----------



## advocate2

_Guessing a little here, but some of the VOD 3D stuff from D* was missing the proper flag and folks were getting errors like you are describing._


None of it was VOD. I also uplugged the HR23 and let it reboot. Still no luck.


With any luck someone will come up with a workaround.

_Is is possible that if you do connect the emitter to the adapter instead of directly to the TV that you could then reverse the eye signal in the adapter?_


I gave it a shot. It did not make a difference.


I guess I have a brand new set of Xpand 102's for sale.


----------



## walford

If you arn't having a problem with the eyes signals being reversed then you don't need to reverse them.

I was trying to find out if if you have an interface to the adapter that allows you to reverse the images in the adapater and not in the TV when the emitter is connected to the adapter and not to the TV.


----------



## ChrisHawks

Quote:

Originally Posted by *walford* 
Chris,

Is is possible that if you do connect the emitter to the adapter instead of directly to the TV that you could then reverse the eye signal in the adapter? If yes then I would assume that you could run DLP_link glases and emitter glases at the same time without problems.
There is no REVERSE 3D button control on the emitter or 3DA-1 adapter itself. The REVERSE 3D control is within the TV's 3D menu. So I don't think it will make a difference no matter how you connect the emitter. Here's the connection diagrams:

 

Connections.pdf 442.4599609375k . file


----------



## high def mon

Could this be the reason the Mits. DLP's have the reverse 3d option in their menu?: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1261696


----------



## Ken H

Topic title changed.


----------



## njfoses

To those lucky enough to be up and running have you had to change your picture settings for 3d viewing? I've been reading about the glasses significantly dimming the picture and wanted some feedback regarding this issue. Thanks.


----------



## ChrisHawks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njfoses* /forum/post/18887776
> 
> 
> To those lucky enough to be up and running have you had to change your picture settings for 3d viewing? I've been reading about the glasses significantly dimming the picture and wanted some feedback regarding this issue. Thanks.



In 3D mode, I have used the Bright and/ or Brilliant settings tweaked a bit. Both work fine and look good!


----------



## walford

Thanks Chris,

Now I am baffled on what if any advantage there is to configureding the emitter through the adapter unless it so that that a different brand of emitter and glases can be used other then ones in the kit.


----------



## pjb16




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njfoses* /forum/post/18887776
> 
> 
> To those lucky enough to be up and running have you had to change your picture settings for 3d viewing? I've been reading about the glasses significantly dimming the picture and wanted some feedback regarding this issue. Thanks.



I watched with my Panny 350 and had no problems using the 3D with my calibration settings.


----------



## mhetman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChrisHawks* /forum/post/18885835
> 
> 
> I'll see what I can arrange. Are all of the PS3's 3D capable?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --Chris



There are some 3D Demo games you can download from the PS3 Store. Some require that you have a new 3D tv which it checks for. I could not try these out because my DLP 3D Ready TV was not detected by the PS3 and hence wouldn't run. Hopefully, the Mits converter will satisfy this check.


----------



## ajricaud




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChrisHawks* /forum/post/18883863
> 
> 
> I did , in fact, use the Samsung SSG-2100AB glasses with the Mits system, and they are identical and perform just as well as the stock Mits glasses. They are obviously from the same vendor, and for all intents and purposes, are the same glasses. Identical in every way.
> 
> 
> --Chris



Chris, do you know if the Mits/Samsung glasses will fit over prescription glasses?


----------



## advocate2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mhetman* /forum/post/18888098
> 
> 
> There are some 3D Demo games you can download from the PS3 Store. Some require that you have a new 3D tv which it checks for. I could not try these out because my DLP 3D Ready TV was not detected by the PS3 and hence wouldn't run. Hopefully, the Mits converter will satisfy this check.



I have downloaded all the PS3 games for 3D and all except Pain worked perfectly with the Adapter. They even played fine when I ran the HDMi from the PS3 to my Yamaha 1.3 sound system and then to the adapter.


----------



## quickfire

advocate.....are you saying PAIN did not work with adaptor?


----------



## ChrisHawks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajricaud*  /forum/post/18888520
> 
> 
> Chris, do you know if the Mits/Samsung glasses will fit over prescription glasses?



Yes, they easily fit over prescription glasses. I had a 3D viewing party last nite, and several people wore rx glasses. They remarked on how comfortable the 3D glasses were over their own.


----------



## bornagain1

Chris, thanks for all of the great info. I have a Mits 3D starter kit coming in on 7/14. I need at least four more pairs of glasses to supplement the two that come with the kit. What is the most economical way to go?


----------



## nc88keyz

e_b_aY


----------



## ajricaud




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChrisHawks* /forum/post/18889207
> 
> 
> Yes, they easily fit over prescription glasses. I had a 3D viewing party last nite, and several people wore rx glasses. They remarked on how comfortable the 3D glasses were over their own.



Many thanks!


----------



## RigorousXChris

Where's the best place to purchase these right now? I'm waiting for Frys to have them just in case I want to return them or if they are defective.


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChrisHawks* /forum/post/18883689
> 
> 
> Yes! The user's guide shows using a HDMI 1.3 receiver as a switching source. So that is what Mits is recommending to use multiple 3D sources with it.



Oh hell yeah! Perfect! ^_^


----------



## curtishd

What's on the Disney 3D bluray?


----------



## curtishd

I'm interested to see if you hooked the adapter and emitter up to a different HDTV if it would also be able to project a 3D image?


----------



## advocate2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bornagain1* /forum/post/18889404
> 
> 
> Chris, thanks for all of the great info. I have a Mits 3D starter kit coming in on 7/14. I need at least four more pairs of glasses to supplement the two that come with the kit. What is the most economical way to go?




Buy the Samsung starter pack for 185, sell the 3D Bluray for 60 bucks, gets you the glasses for $60 each.


----------



## ChrisHawks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *curtishd* /forum/post/18889754
> 
> 
> What's on the Disney 3D bluray?



I'll try to post a review of the Disney Bluray sampler today.


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *curtishd* /forum/post/18889815
> 
> 
> I'm interested to see if you hooked the adapter and emitter up to a different HDTV if it would also be able to project a 3D image?



The purpose of the adapter is to convert non-checkerboard 3D signals to checkerboard so that Mitsubishi DLP's (2007 thru 2009 models) can display 3D.


It will not enable 3D on a non-Mitsubishi 3D capable TV, or any other TV for that matter. (It will only work for Mitsubishi '3D ready' TV's.)


----------



## advocate2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *quickfire* /forum/post/18888968
> 
> 
> advocate.....are you saying PAIN did not work with adaptor?



I played with the game Pain a little more and realized that the game is not entirely in 3D. I was playing a part not in 3D. Once I corrected the error of my ways I was able to play those sections available as 3D fine. I'm sorry for my earlier post where I didn't get it right.


----------



## advocate2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChrisHawks* /forum/post/18889990
> 
> 
> I'll try to post a review of the Disney Bluray sampler today.



I don't have a 3D bluray player so I can't do the review. The entire disk is only 22 minutes long. It has trailers of a variety of Disney movies.


----------



## bt2184




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bornagain1* /forum/post/18889404
> 
> 
> Chris, thanks for all of the great info. I have a Mits 3D starter kit coming in on 7/14. I need at least four more pairs of glasses to supplement the two that come with the kit. What is the most economical way to go?



The Samsung SSG-2100AB are identical to the glasses shipped with the starter kit and work perfectly with it. You can buy these on Amazon for around $120 to $130 each.


Otherwise you would have to buy the D-Link glasses and it seems like some people have had trouble using D-Link with the IR Emitter glasses at the same time.


----------



## walford

I have not seen any reports from the 2 o3 3 users that got their starter kits in the last 2-3 days that they can not run the starter kit glases with the emitter and DLP-link glases at the same time.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/18891157
> 
> 
> I have not seen any reports from the 2 o3 3 users that got their starter kits in the last 2-3 days that they can not run the starter kit glases with the emitter and DLP-link glases at the same time.



You may have forgotten.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *advocate2* /forum/post/18871067
> 
> 
> So there is a glitch. I had previously ordered a set of the Xpand 102's. I had noticed before that they work best with the 3D reversed in the Mits Menu. Although the Xpand work fine with the Directv broadcast in 3D and the reversed Mits output, the glasses in Kit work without the reversal. If I want to use all three sets of glasses, the Xpand's have to be worn upside down.
> 
> 
> I am using the emitter for the Kit glasses....[snip]





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/18871179
> 
> 
> Reversal is required when they are opening the content for the left eye when the contetent for the right eye are being displayed and vice-versa. It two differnt kinds of glases are not in sync with revesed or non reversed mode then you have a severe problem. I have not idea on how to solve the problem. Regrefully you decided to try and use them both at the same time.


----------



## Impala1ss

Just got back from BestBuy where I watched a Samsung 3D tv w/ Samsung glasses. Watchd the World Cup final for about 10 minutes. This was my first time seeing 3D tv.


I was disappointed at the picture, frankly. While the 3 D effect was interesting, it was not what I thought it would be. The picture was slightly darker, as expected with the glasses, but my eyes bothered me after about 5 minutes. As the camera followed the play, the crowds in the background were slightly blurry, but not in the norman "blurry" way. It was almost as if my eyes were out of sync with each other; the ball was slightly blurry as it moved also. Overall the picture was sharp.


I simply didn't want to watch anymore even though I could have at the display with 2 soft chairs and just me watching.


I am a little bummed out now. I couldn't wait for the Mitu. adapter/glasses to come out but now I'm wondering if I want to spend $400 to see a picture which doesn't look as natural as my Mitsu.73837 HD.


Could it have been the Samsung TV? Or what do you think I experienced?


----------



## DanielJoy

anyone test this to see if it is compatible with 3d vision and HTPC?


We might have to wait for nvidia 3dtv play software. but it would be nice if the emitter was the same as nvidia's


----------



## JamesN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *advocate2* /forum/post/18890064
> 
> 
> I don't have a 3D bluray player so I can't do the review. The entire disk is only 22 minutes long. It has trailers of a variety of Disney movies.



Can anyone confirm whether it includes _Working for Peanuts_?


----------



## advocate2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JamesN* /forum/post/18891712
> 
> 
> Can anyone confirm whether it includes _Working for Peanuts_?



From the Back Cover of the Mits Demo Disk:


Shorts: Working for Peanuts and Timon and Rumba's 3D Experience


Trailers: Disney's a Christmas Carol, Alice in Wonderland, Toy Story 3


Clips: Disney's a Christmas Carol, G-Force, The Nightmare before Christmas



Mine is going up on Ebay once I take some Pictures.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JamesN* /forum/post/18891712
> 
> 
> Can anyone confirm whether it includes _Working for Peanuts_?



James is happy now


----------



## ChrisHawks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lee Stewart* /forum/post/18884308
> 
> 
> What Disney content is on the included 3D BD?



Here's a quick review of the included Disney 3D Showcase DVD:


The disc runs less that a half hour. The overall picture quality ranges from to good to excellent. Scenes of flat animated characters such as Timon and Pumba (Lion King), and Donald Duck are obviously not exceptionally 3D, although it looks decent. The disc really shines when it shows clips from 3D movies such as Christmas Carol.


Here's a rundown on the content:

Disc opens with Timon and Pumba explaining the wonders of the new 3D systems, especially the glasses. They tlak about how great the new 3D looks and you see a very quick teaser clip of Miley Cyrus in concert, which looks excellent.


Next they introduce a series of movie trailers, whcih are:


Christmas Carol: Outstanding 3D effects...looks great!!


Alice in Wonderland: I saw this at the theaters. Good movie, good actors, so-so 3D effect. But I will say it looks BETTER on my TV than it did on the movie theater. I wonder if they touched it up for Blu ray?


Toy Story 3; Haven't seen it yet...great trailer..great 3D!!


Next Timon and Pumba introduce several 3D film clips:


Christmas Carol: A scene with the ghost of Christmas past...best clip on the disc. Beautiful special effects..outstanding!


G-Force: I've never heard of this....a mixture of live action and talking animals (hamsters, etc.) Very funny...great effects!


Nightmare Before Christmas: I have to tell you, one of my favorite films anyway. It's been remastered in 3D...and it looks pretty darn good. I'm really looking forward to it's 3D release now!


And lastly, there is a funny Donald Duck animated film featuring Chip & Dale. Again, flat animation with a light 3D effect. Good 3d, not great. The kids will love this part. I thought it was cute.


So that's it!


----------



## Hyabusha

Thanks for the review Chris H! Could you please take a pic of the front and back cover?


----------



## JamesN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Augerhandle* /forum/post/18891977
> 
> 
> James is happy now



LOL!










Yeah...it's a personal favorite. I've seen it theatrically 4 times: 3 times in dual-35mm and once in Disney 3D (RealD).


If anyone wants to part with their demo disc, shoot me a PM.


----------



## ChrisHawks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/18892035
> 
> 
> Thanks for the review Chris H! Could you please take a pic of the front and back cover?



Here you go!


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChrisHawks* /forum/post/18892469
> 
> 
> Here you go!



Thanks Chris! Every little Info helps the wait!


----------



## JimP

Impala


Don't judge a technology from just one set.


If you're going to use the Mitsubishi system, then find a demo with their equipment.


----------



## fire407




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Impala1ss* /forum/post/18891594
> 
> 
> Just got back from BestBuy where I watched a Samsung 3D tv w/ Samsung glasses. Watchd the World Cup final for about 10 minutes. This was my first time seeing 3D tv.
> 
> 
> I was disappointed at the picture, frankly. While the 3 D effect was interesting, it was not what I thought it would be. The picture was slightly darker, as expected with the glasses, but my eyes bothered me after about 5 minutes. As the camera followed the play, the crowds in the background were slightly blurry, but not in the norman "blurry" way. It was almost as if my eyes were out of sync with each other; the ball was slightly blurry as it moved also. Overall the picture was sharp.
> 
> 
> I simply didn't want to watch anymore even though I could have at the display with 2 soft chairs and just me watching.
> 
> 
> I am a little bummed out now. I couldn't wait for the Mitu. adapter/glasses to come out but now I'm wondering if I want to spend $400 to see a picture which doesn't look as natural as my Mitsu.73837 HD.
> 
> 
> Could it have been the Samsung TV? Or what do you think I experienced?



It could be a number of things. Perhaps the TV wasn't in true 3D mode, where they may have taken a 2D feed and had the TV convert it to 3D. Another thing to consider is the fact that the Word Cup is being shot native 50i and converted to 60i for the US. While the conversion is good, the ball looks blurry even on 2D ESPN. And lastly, most of soccer is done with very wide shots of the field, where the depth is hardly evident. The best 3D shots are where there is something in the foreground, something in the middle, and something in the background. As others here have stated, see another demo before making any judgements.


----------



## Charlestech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *advocate2* /forum/post/18886550
> 
> 
> I have a Yamaha RX-V565, 1.3, 7.1 sound system. I ran the PS3 into the Yamaha with a 1.3 cable and then the Yamaha through the adapter to the 73735. Everything worked fine!!!!! The games I played all had great 3D. No assurances how things will work with the new BD firmware update for the PS3 coming in September.
> 
> 
> I then hooked up my Directv HR23 into the Yamaha with a 1.4 cable and got mixed results. The soccer match I had previously recorded played fine in 3D. But when I tried to play the other 3D content I had recorded, I received the message that the content could not play because the TV was not 3D compatible. It must have something to do with the Directv detection system.
> 
> 
> Any thoughts or suggestions?



Have you tried putting the adapter between the Directv and your Yamaha and then to the tv? I am just curious if that will work.


Directv-adapter-Yamaha-Mits Tv


My other idea is that you may have to go directly from your Directv to the adapter and then to the TV.


----------



## ChrisHawks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *advocate2* /forum/post/18889878
> 
> 
> Buy the Samsung starter pack for 185 (ON EBAY), sell the 3D Bluray for 60 bucks, gets you the glasses for $60 each.



This is, in fact, what I did for my extra glasses. It was a great cost effective way to get extra glasses. And I easily sold the M v A discs for profit.


----------



## BillFree2

I have a Panasonic 3D player(xxx-350), MITS WD-65735 3D-ready TV, 3D emmitter connected to vesa port, and EXpand102 glasses. All demo's and 3D blurays work fine. A 1.4 hdmi is connected to 3D panasonic main hdmi. Based on your saying the Samsung SSG-2100ab works fine on the MITs I bought two. When using them I turned them on and picture was bright but a double image or ghost is there. My TV mode is set for 3D on and reverse or normal, no improvement. The player is set properly as Xpand102 work fine. Any suggestions? If the don't work, they are going back to BB. Same glasses as those in MITS starter kit, not sure. They are light weight and hopefully will work. I ordered the MITS adapter and waiting like others. Will it make a difference?


----------



## walford

Are you seeing a Side by side image or a slight ghost?

If a ghost does the ghost only show up in scenes with high amounts of white or light colored content?

Have you tried turning down brightness level on the TV.

The adapter will not help with your the image from the 3D blu-ray player it would only help if receiving 3D content from a cable or satellite box.


----------



## njfoses

Can you leave the adapter powered on at all times even if you are not viewing 3d material or do you have to turn the device off in order for it to operate in pass-through mode? Thanks.


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/18894398
> 
> 
> The adapter will not help with your the image from the 3D blu-ray player it would only help if receiving 3D content from a cable or satellite box.



The adapter converts all current 3D sources to checkerboard.


----------



## JamesN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillFree2* /forum/post/18894228
> 
> 
> I have a Panasonic 3D player(xxx-350), MITS WD-65735 3D-ready TV, 3D emmitter connected to vesa port, and EXpand102 glasses. All demo's and 3D blurays work fine. A 1.4 hdmi is connected to 3D panasonic main hdmi. Based on your saying the Samsung SSG-2100ab works fine on the MITs I bought two. When using them I turned them on and picture was bright but a double image or ghost is there. My TV mode is set for 3D on and reverse or normal, no improvement. The player is set properly as Xpand102 work fine. Any suggestions? If the don't work, they are going back to BB. Same glasses as those in MITS starter kit, not sure. They are light weight and hopefully will work. I ordered the MITS adapter and waiting like others. Will it make a difference?



What brand of emitter are you using? The IR emitter and IR glasses have to be compatible with each other in order to work. You can't mix and match emitters and glasses.


----------



## BillFree2

I am seeing side by side images more than ghost effect. As far as the IR emitter I really don't know brand as it was plugged into the tv when I got it. The Xpand 102 glasses don't require it. Maybe the MITS IR emitter when it comes will match glasses & resolve the problem. The 3D player is set for checkerboard and its working. This is like trying to drive a new car but can't until the tires are installed. Its a hurry up and wait process. Like others I can't wait to get my MITS "3D-Ready" functioning before all 3D movies are released to enjoy and have proper 3D glasses all working for our guests and a WOW display.


----------



## jjknatl

All, I haven't checked to see if anyone else has posted this news, but I called RC Willey today and as of last Friday, they will accept phone orders for the starter kit and drop ship to you. Apparently they were being overwhelmed with phone order attempts and decided to change their policy. Mine ships out tomorrow!!!! $11 flat rate to ship apparently, and they had a decent deal on the Samsung kids glasses so I bought a pair of those too. Will post about compatibility of the kids glasses once I receive them.


----------



## DenisG

I'm not in a big hurry, I'll just sit on my Amazon order. I can still watch 3D BD's with my panny and Uverse has no 3D channels yet.


----------



## Mounta1n




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillFree2* /forum/post/18894818
> 
> 
> I am seeing side by side images more than ghost effect. As far as the IR emitter I really don't know brand as it was plugged into the tv when I got it. The Xpand 102 glasses don't require it. Maybe the MITS IR emitter when it comes will match glasses & resolve the problem. The 3D player is set for checkerboard and its working. This is like trying to drive a new car but can't until the tires are installed. Its a hurry up and wait process. Like others I can't wait to get my MITS "3D-Ready" functioning before all 3D movies are released to enjoy and have proper 3D glasses all working for our guests and a WOW display.



Perhaps it's an Nvidia VISION emitter?


----------



## bcterp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18894946
> 
> 
> All, I haven't checked to see if anyone else has posted this news, but I called RC Willey today and as of last Friday, they will accept phone orders for the starter kit and drop ship to you. Apparently they were being overwhelmed with phone order attempts and decided to change their policy. Mine ships out tomorrow!!!! $11 flat rate to ship apparently, and they had a decent deal on the Samsung kids glasses so I bought a pair of those too. Will post about compatibility of the kids glasses once I receive them.



Just ordered one should ship tomorrow. Thanks for sharing. Saved me a very long wait.


----------



## njfoses




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18894946
> 
> 
> All, I haven't checked to see if anyone else has posted this news, but I called RC Willey today and as of last Friday, they will accept phone orders for the starter kit and drop ship to you. Apparently they were being overwhelmed with phone order attempts and decided to change their policy. Mine ships out tomorrow!!!! $11 flat rate to ship apparently, and they had a decent deal on the Samsung kids glasses so I bought a pair of those too. Will post about compatibility of the kids glasses once I receive them.



I just called and they told me they are not shipping them, in store pickup only??


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njfoses* /forum/post/18895147
> 
> 
> I just called and they told me they are not shipping them, in store pickup only??



Strange. Maybe your sales agent was not aware. I'd call them back and see what happens.


----------



## abouels0827

Thanks for the heads up, didn't pre order before so I thought id have to wait months, just got off the phone with rc wiley got one ordered on second day air and ships out tommorow. The sales lady said they had about 25 left if this helps anyone. Can't wait


----------



## njfoses




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18895210
> 
> 
> Strange. Maybe your sales agent was not aware. I'd call them back and see what happens.



Im trying lol somebody just picked up and told me the system just went down and for me to call back in twenty minutes, this was after i was on hold for close to 15 min. When i told her i wanted to place an order she said let me guess the 3d adapter? Apparantly they are getting swamped with calls right now. Before i called one of the stores direct and thats who told me they are only doing local pickup.


----------



## Cyclone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18894946
> 
> 
> All, I haven't checked to see if anyone else has posted this news, but I called RC Willey today and as of last Friday, they will accept phone orders for the starter kit and drop ship to you. Apparently they were being overwhelmed with phone order attempts and decided to change their policy. Mine ships out tomorrow!!!! $11 flat rate to ship apparently, and they had a decent deal on the Samsung kids glasses so I bought a pair of those too. Will post about compatibility of the kids glasses once I receive them.



I got one too! Thanks for the heads-up.


----------



## njfoses




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njfoses* /forum/post/18895264
> 
> 
> Im trying lol somebody just picked up and told me the system just went down and for me to call back in twenty minutes, this was after i was on hold for close to 15 min. When i told her i wanted to place an order she said let me guess the 3d adapter? Apparantly they are getting swamped with calls right now. Before i called one of the stores direct and thats who told me they are only doing local pickup.



I am now officially ordered. Thanks to the op of this!


----------



## Hyabusha

Hey Chris one more picture please. Can you take one of the glasses pouch? Thanks again.


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18894946
> 
> 
> All, I haven't checked to see if anyone else has posted this news, but I called RC Willey today and as of last Friday, they will accept phone orders for the starter kit and drop ship to you. Apparently they were being overwhelmed with phone order attempts and decided to change their policy. Mine ships out tomorrow!!!! $11 flat rate to ship apparently, and they had a decent deal on the Samsung kids glasses so I bought a pair of those too. Will post about compatibility of the kids glasses once I receive them.



Thanks for that!

But I can't seem to get through on the phone......


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njfoses* /forum/post/18895264
> 
> 
> Im trying lol somebody just picked up and told me the system just went down and for me to call back in twenty minutes, this was after i was on hold for close to 15 min. When i told her i wanted to place an order she said let me guess the 3d adapter? Apparantly they are getting swamped with calls right now. Before i called one of the stores direct and thats who told me they are only doing local pickup.



Yes, I expected the deluge of calls, so I warned the lady at RC Willey to get ready for non-stop calls for it. Let's hope all goes smoothly from this point forward. A crashed system makes me nervous.


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/18895515
> 
> 
> Thanks for that!
> 
> But I can't seem to get through on the phone......



Got it!!!! Ships 2nd day air tomorrow.

There's still a few left.....


----------



## GreggyJ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18894946
> 
> 
> All, I haven't checked to see if anyone else has posted this news, but I called RC Willey today and as of last Friday, they will accept phone orders for the starter kit and drop ship to you. Apparently they were being overwhelmed with phone order attempts and decided to change their policy. Mine ships out tomorrow!!!! $11 flat rate to ship apparently, and they had a decent deal on the Samsung kids glasses so I bought a pair of those too. Will post about compatibility of the kids glasses once I receive them.



Wish they had some of the plain adapters :/


----------



## pajer

ordered mine at 1:30 eastern today and they had 45 left so it looks like they are going to besold out fast. i told the csr that they are about the only place in the country that has them (the mitsubishi gods must be looking down on them). mine ships tomorrow 2nd day air for 25.00. pajer


----------



## pjb16

Took like 13 minutes of holding, but I finally spoke with a very nice operator who took my order. $25 for 2nd day air. I told her she made my day, lol.


----------



## abouels0827

Was wondering since these starter packs are so hard to come by, wonder how much they would sell for on ebay?


----------



## pajer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abouels0827* /forum/post/18895655
> 
> 
> Was wondering since these starter packs are so hard to come by, wonder how much they would sell for on ebay?



only one way to find out.


----------



## pajer

I predict R C Willey will be sold out by the close of business today!


----------



## abouels0827

Haha yeah only one way, guess ill be puttin mine on ebay hoping its the next quick big buks. There isn't much 3d material out yet and probably won't be till next year so I can just re purchase when quantities are available.


----------



## dreaux

I went to the R C Willey web site and it said 'in store' purchase only. But I called anyway and when I got through after about a 5 minute wait the sales person knew exactly what I was asking for. In any case she said I could order since I live in Maryland and can not go to the store. Should be shipped tomorrow.

Thanks for the heads up on where to find.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abouels0827* /forum/post/18895697
> 
> 
> Haha yeah only one way, guess ill be puttin mine on ebay hoping its the next quick big buks. There isn't much 3d material out yet and probably won't be till next year so I can just re purchase when quantities are available.



I thought scalping was illegal.


----------



## rsnyder005

just ordered mine-14 left


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abouels0827* /forum/post/18895655
> 
> 
> Was wondering since these starter packs are so hard to come by, wonder how much they would sell for on ebay?



About $399.


----------



## abouels0827

haha yeah if they were easily available they'd go for 39o, but since their not I'm sure there are people out there who wouldn't mind paying more, well just have to find out.


----------



## njfoses

So im assuming every time we want to watch 3d we will have to enable 120 hz and 3d mode in the tv menu correct? The tv will not automatically switch based on the source? This is rather cumbersome if you are channel surfing between 3d and non 3d content as i never turn 120 hz on as it adds artifacts to the picture.


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abouels0827* /forum/post/18895951
> 
> 
> haha yeah if they were easily available they'd go for 39o, but since their not I'm sure there are people out there who wouldn't mind paying more, well just have to find out.



Most of us don't want to pay the $399 for the kit as it is right now much less get priced gouged on fleaby. They will be redly available soon enough. I still find it odd only one retailer has these things in stock right now.


----------



## pjb16




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njfoses* /forum/post/18895975
> 
> 
> So im assuming every time we want to watch 3d we will have to enable 120 hz and 3d mode in the tv menu correct? The tv will not automatically switch based on the source? This is rather cumbersome if you are channel surfing between 3d and non 3d content as i never turn 120 hz on as it adds artifacts to the picture.



I never touch the 120hz option even when watching 3D, I just turn 3D mode "on."


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njfoses* /forum/post/18895975
> 
> 
> So im assuming every time we want to watch 3d we will have to enable 120 hz and 3d mode in the tv menu correct? The tv will not automatically switch based on the source? This is rather cumbersome if you are channel surfing between 3d and non 3d content as i never turn 120 hz on as it adds artifacts to the picture.



Unless you have flip-up 3D glasses, I don't see the problem.

*IMHO*, you'll still be able to identify what is on when you surf, and _getting off the couch to go get the glasses_ will take longer than switching modes. In the future, I'm sure there will be duplicate 2D and 3D channels, just as there is now with SD and HD versions of channels. So you'll be able to surf in 2D until you find what you want, or filter to surf only the 3D channels, just as you can filter to surf only HD channels now.


Right now 3D is more of an event driven pastime, like renting a movie.


> Quote:
> "The show's on in 5 minutes, you make the popcorn, I'll get the 3D glasses."


----------



## njfoses




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Augerhandle* /forum/post/18896133
> 
> 
> Unless you have flip-up 3D glasses, I don't see the problem.
> 
> *IMHO*, you'll still be able to identify what is on when you surf, and _getting off the couch to go get the glasses_ will take longer than switching modes. In the future, I'm sure there will be duplicate 2D and 3D channels, just as there is now with SD and HD versions of channels. So you'll be able to surf in 2D until you find what you want, or filter to surf only the 3D channels, just as you can filter to surf only HD channels now.
> 
> 
> Right now 3D is more of an event driven pastime, like renting a movie.



I see what your saying. Have you tried 3d with and without 120hz and have you seen a difference either way?


----------



## khee mao

ok, I lied when I said I could wait







called RC Willey and have the starter pack heading my way. they have 6 left.


thanks for the heads up!


----------



## Zapix

Just called, the warehouse is sold out. Said if there's a local store I could find one, but nothing available to ship out. Meh. Oh well! xD


----------



## advocate2

How many of today's buyers of the Kit from RC Wiley were forum members??? I venture a guess of 99%.


Kind of funny. When I got mine last week from them I told the salesman that Wiley is the only store in the US with the units in stock. He seemed surprised. I honestly thought Amazon would have them by this week.


For those of you who missed World Cup, quite a few of the games can be downloaded on Directv VOD.


----------



## cesar2010

Nooo was hoping to order them tomorrow morning, would be great to find who else has received them from Mitsubishi cant believe RCWiley would be the only one retailer.


Also it was said that the samsung glasses(SSG-2100AB) work with the kit because they seem to be the same glasses..Any1 know if the rechargeable model from samsung work as well?


I ordered my kit from ABT but they sent an email today saying

"Product availability is very constrained but we will be expecting a partial shipment in 1-2 weeks. Due to allotment issues on this newly introduced item, Mitsubishi is unable to provide Abt an expected date of arrival or a quantity for how many we will receive."


I need to have them sooner missing all the goodies from directtv..any lead please post..


----------



## cesar2010

Modia.com say they have it available for shipping out of texas on the 17th with a good sale price of $363 anyone willing to test it out... the reviews for the site werent the most favorable so not sure http://www.modia.com/Mitsubishi-3DC1..._p/3dc1000.htm


----------



## pjb16




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cesar2010* /forum/post/18897518
> 
> 
> Modia.com say they have it available for shipping out of texas on the 17th with a good sale price of $363 anyone willing to test it out... the reviews for the site werent the most favorable so not sure http://www.modia.com/Mitsubishi-3DC1..._p/3dc1000.htm



I actually called them on Thursday/Friday of last week, and they didn't actually have the kit in stock yet (the guy told me to call back in a week). At the time it had the shipping date as 4-5 days after (today), just like it still does.


At the very least I'd call before ordering and expecting a shipment on the 17th.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njfoses* /forum/post/18896413
> 
> 
> I see what your saying. Have you tried 3d with and without 120hz and have you seen a difference either way?



It's impossible on my TV (835 series).

_Smooth 120Hz_ is greyed out and not selectable when 3D is enabled. If _Smooth 120Hz_ is turned on before selecting 3D, it reverts to "Off" after switching to 3D, and is again greyed out.


----------



## abouels0827

Anyone know any u.s. release dates for any 3d playstation 3 games? Or any 3d blu ray movies, also does time warner cable support 3d?thanks


----------



## bornagain1

I ordered the starter pack from RC Willey last Thursday when I noticed thr website said "in store/phone orders only". I called and was told that I would have it by July 14. The Utah store seems to be where the RC Willey warehouse is located. Anyone in Utah should be able to get to the inventory first.


----------



## njfoses




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Augerhandle* /forum/post/18897701
> 
> 
> It's impossible on my TV (835 series).
> 
> _Smooth 120Hz_ is greyed out and not selectable when 3D is enabled. If _Smooth 120Hz_ is turned on before selecting 3D, it reverts to "Off" after switching to 3D, and is again greyed out.



Good to hear as i really didnt want to have to mess with 120hz. Now if the tv would automatically enter 3d mode when receiving a 3d source i would be all set.


----------



## Darin

For non-1080p 3D content (such as 720p SBS), the converter must scale everything up to 1920x1080, since that is the resolution for the checkerboard format. It's been mentioned that the it will pas through 2D content... can anyone confirm that it's truly pass-through, as in 2D 720p isn't upscaled to 1080p?


----------



## Impala1ss




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bornagain1* /forum/post/18897899
> 
> 
> I ordered the starter pack from RC Willey last Thursday when I noticed thr website said "in store/phone orders only". I called and was told that I would have it by July 14. The Utah store seems to be where the RC Willey warehouse is located. Anyone in Utah should be able to get to the inventory first.



Well, just called RC Wiley and they have 4 Starter Kits left so I ordered one. He says normal delivery will take about 1 week via UPS. He also advised that they have 500+ on order. Funny, I called them last week and they advised that their Mitsu. contract would not allow them to ship out of state. Something must have changed?


Got a confirmation # so I hope this is real.


----------



## jjknatl

Impala, they emailed a confirmation of my order late yesterday. Expecting a shipping/ tracking email today.


----------



## jjknatl

Cesar, will let you know about the rechargeable version once I get the kit. I ordered the kid version of the rechargeable.


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Impala1ss* /forum/post/18898669
> 
> 
> Well, just called RC Wiley and they have 4 Starter Kits left so I ordered one. He says normal delivery will take about 1 week via UPS. He also advised that they have 500+ on order. Funny, *I called them last week and they advised that their Mitsu. contract would not allow them to ship out of state. Something must have changed?*
> 
> 
> Got a confirmation # so I hope this is real.



Ya, they just sold the whole stock of kits in less then two days. You think they are going to ask permission?


----------



## Hyabusha

Who's going to be the first awesome person to make a unboxing video review for the starter kit?


----------



## abouels0827

If you haven't seen there is an unboxing on you tube. Also has any one heard anything since making there purcahse yesterday?


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abouels0827* /forum/post/18899691
> 
> 
> If you haven't seen there is an unboxing on you tube. Also has any one heard anything since making there purcahse yesterday?



Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Q6XiK3P8E8


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abouels0827* /forum/post/18899691
> 
> 
> If you haven't seen there is an unboxing on you tube. Also has any one heard anything since making there purcahse yesterday?



As mentioned, I got a confirmation email late yesterday but still waiting on a shipping update.


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Athlon646464* /forum/post/18899721
> 
> 
> Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Q6XiK3P8E8



Damn where did this come from!? Thanks!


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18898752
> 
> 
> Impala, they emailed a confirmation of my order late yesterday. Expecting a shipping/ tracking email today.



Same here.


----------



## Hyabusha

Vanns just got them In stock.

http://www.vanns.com/shop/servlet/it...bishi-3dc-1000 


I'm still waiting on ABT... ;(


----------



## cesar2010

damn wish theres a way for some1 to find out if the samsung rechargeable are compatible, some good deals on ebay....


Wow just ordered @ vanns.com so hyped!!!!


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cesar2010* /forum/post/18900311
> 
> 
> damn wish theres a way for some1 to find out if the samsung rechargeable are compatible...



I can't imagine that they aren't since the non-rechargeables are. I just wish I could find an IR emitter that I knew would work. If I did, I'd order the stand alone converter (instead of the Mitsubishi kit).


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/18900287
> 
> 
> Vanns just got them In stock.
> 
> http://www.vanns.com/shop/servlet/it...bishi-3dc-1000
> 
> 
> I'm still waiting on ABT... ;(



It says on order coming soon. How is that in stock?


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenisG* /forum/post/18900411
> 
> 
> It says on order coming soon. How is that in stock?



It did used to say In Stock, maybe they ran out already?


----------



## z28lt1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenisG* /forum/post/18900411
> 
> 
> It says on order coming soon. How is that in stock?



That just changed within the last 20 minutes or so. I checked when I saw the post and it was listed as in stock.


----------



## bcterp

I saw it in stock. Must have sold out fast.


----------



## DenisG

Well damn that was fast. Guess they didn't get that many.


----------



## cesar2010

well i manage to order them, i hope they actually had it and wont say is out of stock after that... i would be mad if thats the case crossing my fingers i get my hands on one..




Just got my shipping Confirmation when i get it ill make a video of it 4 those out there..


----------



## bhalbower

Just placed my order about 10 minutes ago. I must have got the last one.


----------



## bhalbower

Rep said that they only had two. Me and cesar2010 must have been the lucky winners.


----------



## pjb16

If anyone has a current standing order with 4ElectronicWarehouse, and didn't get one in the initial shipment, they may be sending more out within the next 24 hours or so. I ordered on May 29th, and they said I was near the top of the list to be filled.


----------



## Hyabusha

Lol, that was fast! ^_^


Your welcome by the way...


----------



## mds54

Just got off the phone with R C Willey.....

our shipments have been delayed due to a warehouse screwup.

They say they will be shipping tomorrow for sure.


----------



## rad

Looks like I got one of the Vann's units, did a chat with them and said my order did process and got the e-mail for shipping notification, just waiting for FedEx tracking number.


----------



## cesar2010




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/18900591
> 
> 
> Lol, that was fast! ^_^
> 
> 
> Your welcome by the way...



Thank you for the heads up!


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cesar2010* /forum/post/18900635
> 
> 
> Thank you for the heads up!



That put's a smile on my face! Glad I could help someone!


----------



## illthreat

d'oh.. guess I'll have to wait for "competitors" to have them in stock.. which from the RC Willey csr said "others" should have it in stock "soon".


Even my local mitsu dealer got boned on the back order status.. supposed to have gotten them in yesterday..


----------



## tflem777

I just ordered from Amazon and expect to have the starter kit by the 15th or 16th. They still have a few left. Frenzy anyone?


----------



## cesar2010

Amazon has 2 in stock plus you can sign up for amazon prime n have 2day shipping for $3..
http://www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-3DC.../dp/B003KTN0B4 


also they have the adapter only:;

http://www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-3-D...ref=pd_sim_e_4


----------



## illthreat

How does the stand alone mitsu adapter ($99) and the Xpand 102 glasses compare to the mitsu starter kit?


----------



## cesar2010

from what i heard xpands are not as confortable as the mits glasses n the xpads have more ghosting... correct me if im wrong


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tflem777* /forum/post/18900743
> 
> 
> I just ordered from Amazon and expect to have the starter kit by the 15th or 16th. They still have a few left. Frenzy anyone?



Don't bet on it. I had my preorder in since June 3rd and haven't heard jack yet.


----------



## khee mao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/18900596
> 
> 
> Just got off the phone with R C Willey.....
> 
> our shipments have been delayed due to a warehouse screwup.
> 
> They say they will be shipping tomorrow for sure.



ugh! how hard does going 3D have to be?


I still haven't heard anything back personally from RC Willey regarding shipping/tracking.


I did get a call from 6th Ave Electronics yesterday stating Amazon oversold the BDT-350s and I wouldn't be getting mine for weeks. I was happy to cancel that order as my Mits starter kit was in the mail. now neither the kit nor the 3d player are in the mail, yet both places have my money. better yet, the BDT-350 jumped $50 overnight with none in stock anywhere I looked.


----------



## z28lt1

Note that Amazon inventory isn't Amazon's, it is Onecall's selling through Amazon. So, 1) The stock might not be correct and 2) It may not be eligible for Prime.


Amazon itself is showing out of stock.


----------



## njfoses




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/18900596
> 
> 
> Just got off the phone with R C Willey.....
> 
> our shipments have been delayed due to a warehouse screwup.
> 
> They say they will be shipping tomorrow for sure.



Somebody called me a few hours ago from Wiley and asked me some questions about my address. I asked if my order was still shipping today and she said yes? It better ship soon since i paid extra for 2 day shipping.


Nvm just received the email stating there was a stock issue and it will ship tomorrow. Why do i have this bad feeling they over sold what they actually had.


----------



## cesar2010




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenisG* /forum/post/18900793
> 
> 
> Don't bet on it. I had my preorder in since June 3rd and haven't heard jack yet.



maybe cuz is really sold by Onecall


----------



## tflem777

Dennis - Did you order directly from Amazon or from an Amazon partner?


Apologies; I ordered from One Call through Amazon. One Call indicates they had 3 in stock when I ordered. We shall see. If it does not ship in the next day or so I may be the one in a frenzy.


----------



## khee mao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *illthreat* /forum/post/18900769
> 
> 
> How does the stand alone mitsu adapter ($99) and the Xpand 102 glasses compare to the mitsu starter kit?





I thought about going this route until I read the review of the Mits glasses. while I think the Xpands look great (the image, not the design), they'll definitely wear out your nose, and are apparently incompatable with the Mits bundled glasses. since the initial review stated that the Samsung glasses did indeed work with the Mits emitter and are, for all practical purposes the same glasses, I'll prob look to the Samsung starter kit for my extra pairs of (matching) glasses. the bonus of which is a bundled copy of Monsters v Aliens.


----------



## abouels0827

So rc willey messed up those orders made of yesterday? That really sucks, so shouldn't we get a discount if we ordered second day air? Watch they come up with another excuse tommorow.


----------



## DenisG

Crap, Didn't catch the onecall. That just showed up today. My order is with Amazon.


----------



## cesar2010

Ordered a pair of the samsung battery operated glasses on ebay for $60 which isnt bad. Hopefully everything works well...Good luck to everyone n thanks to all for the valuable info..


----------



## audiopho




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenisG* /forum/post/18900866
> 
> 
> Crap, Didn't catch the onecall. That just showed up today. My order is with Amazon.



Yep...Its in-stock as of 16:30 CDT but the $18.70 ground shipping kills it for me.

http://www.onecall.com/product/Mitsu...ter/_/R-105135 

I'd rather wait for Amazon...just a matter of time

Come on Mits you're screwing us big time on this one...Now it's the time.

I've missed the entire World Cup in 3D because of it.

What Samsung glasses do I need in order to work with this kit?


EDIT: I spoke too soon...Just ordered the kit (in-stock) from Amazon (via Onecall) for $99, free shipping. Estimated shipping date is 14th.

or 15th. 2 left as of 16:40 PM


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abouels0827* /forum/post/18900865
> 
> 
> So rc willey messed up those orders made of yesterday? That really sucks, so shouldn't we get a discount if we ordered second day air? Watch they come up with another excuse tommorow.



My _understanding_ from lengthy discussions with them is that they messed up the transfer of the units from a stock warehouse to the shipping warehouse. It's not supposed to be a depleted stock issue.


I told them I paid for 2nd day air and now I'm getting 3rd day air, so we

adjusted my bill with a shipping charge credit. YMMV.


----------



## abouels0827

So mds, ur gettin 3 day air from tommorow, n ill still be gettin 2 day air tommorow? Or u just got a refund of a few dollars and will be gettin 2 day? I haven't received any emails and had to call them today just to get them to email me my purchase order guess they had my email wrong.


----------



## bhalbower




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *khee mao* /forum/post/18900819
> 
> 
> ugh! how hard does going 3D have to be?
> 
> 
> I still haven't heard anything back personally from RC Willey regarding shipping/tracking.
> 
> 
> I did get a call from 6th Ave Electronics yesterday stating Amazon oversold the BDT-350s and I wouldn't be getting mine for weeks. I was happy to cancel that order as my Mits starter kit was in the mail. now neither the kit nor the 3d player are in the mail, yet both places have my money. better yet, the BDT-350 jumped $50 overnight with none in stock anywhere I looked.



Since you are ordering the adapter why don't you just get the Sony BDP-S470 blu ray player for $175 and save some cash? The 3D firmware upgrade is already out for it. I have one and it works great, although I have to wait for my kit to arrive to test the 3D.


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abouels0827* /forum/post/18901001
> 
> 
> So mds, ur gettin 3 day air from tommorow, n ill still be gettin 2 day air tommorow? Or u just got a refund of a few dollars and will be gettin 2 day? I haven't received any emails and had to call them today just to get them to email me my purchase order guess they had my email wrong.



I got a partial shipping charge credit and I'm still getting 2-day air,

but it's shipping tomorrow instead of today (supposedly).


----------



## abouels0827

I don't see why they just wouldn't mak more? I'm sure at 400 a piece they would be in some pretty good profit potential within a few years, there is a mitsubishi manufacture electronic division here where I live wonder if their making adapters in there. haha


----------



## Hyabusha

Ordered the Samsung Starter 3D Kit for $177 of ee bay. Not bad. But I wish It was the Mitsu Kit...


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abouels0827* /forum/post/18901105
> 
> 
> I don't see why they just wouldn't mak more? I'm sure at 400 a piece they would be in some pretty good profit potential within a few years, there is a mitsubishi manufacture electronic division here where I live wonder if their making adapters in there. haha



They have - they are holding back so they do not create a support nightmare for themselves.


Having something that is in short supply and creating buzz and demand is better than not being able to handle a crapload of support calls all at once.


They are rolling them out slowly.........


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abouels0827* /forum/post/18901105
> 
> 
> I don't see why they just wouldn't mak more? I'm sure at 400 a piece they would be in some pretty good profit potential within a few years, there is a mitsubishi manufacture electronic division here where I live wonder if their making adapters in there. haha



They are makeing plenty, manufacturing takes time. This happens all the time with high demand products. Supply can't keep up with the demand on launch.


----------



## curtishd

Let me see if I understand this right:

With just the adapter you get ONLY the adapter (no emitter, no glasses no HDMI cable).

With the kit you get the adapter, emitter, 2 glasses and 1 HDMI cable.

Now what good is the kit without the emitter? Are there glasses that do not require an emitter (how is the signal process in the glasses?) and if so are they as good as the ones that come with the kit (3D effect)?


----------



## illthreat

looks like I may have just gotten lucky with OneCall.


With expedited shipping it should arrive tomorrow morning.


Close call though, there were orders streaming in for approval so they pulled the last 6 they had.


----------



## cesar2010

might be a dumb question but what kind of battery do the glasses in the kit use? wanna get a bunch cuz i might be watching a load of 3d


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *curtishd* /forum/post/18901210
> 
> 
> Let me see if I understand this right:
> 
> With just the adapter you get ONLY the adapter (no emitter, no glasses no HDMI cable).
> 
> With the kit you get the adapter, emitter, 2 glasses and 1 HDMI cable.
> 
> Now what good is the kit without the emitter? Are there glasses that do not require an emitter (how is the signal process in the glasses?) and if so are they as good as the ones that come with the kit (3D effect)?



Strait from Mitsubishi web sight.



> Quote:
> you will only need 3D eyewear and matching emitter or DLP Link 3D eyewear that does not require an emitter.


 http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/3D.html


----------



## illthreat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cesar2010* /forum/post/18901222
> 
> 
> might be a dumb question but what kind of battery do the glasses in the kit use? wanna get a bunch cuz i might be watching a load of 3d






The glasses use (x1) CR2025 battery.


see- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DRbXEzSnlns


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cesar2010* /forum/post/18901222
> 
> 
> might be a dumb question but what kind of battery do the glasses in the kit use? wanna get a bunch cuz i might be watching a load of 3d



Google says.

Requires common CR2025 button battery


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

i order my 3dc-1000 since 06/28 from us -appliance.com.they promised they gonna have them in stock by 07/10 but it didnt happen and now they dont even know when they gonna have them ,anybody had to deal with them or order the 3dc-1000 starter kit from them ,also is it the kit anywhere in stock as we speak now?


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/18901270
> 
> 
> i order my 3dc-1000 since 06/28 from us -appliance.com.they promised they gonna have them in stock by 07/10 but it didnt happen and now they dont even know when they gonna have them ,anybody had to deal with them or order the 3dc-1000 starter kit from them ,also is it the kit anywhere in stock as we speak now?



There are people with pre orders in a month before you that are still waiting. They are flying off the shelves from other places when they pop up.


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

i guess just got to wait more


----------



## khee mao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhalbower* /forum/post/18901020
> 
> 
> Since you are ordering the adapter why don't you just get the Sony BDP-S470 blu ray player for $175 and save some cash? The 3D firmware upgrade is already out for it. I have one and it works great, although I have to wait for my kit to arrive to test the 3D.




at this point, I am so flipping worn out from this 3D upgrade headache that I just want something that'll play nice. little did I know my xbox would need HDMI to play Avatar in 3D. upgraded. done. the Mits adapter only has one in/out so I upgraded my AV receiver to 1.4 but am not entirely happy with this purchase. sprung for 102s to play Avatar, now these are purported to not work in conjunction with the Mits starter pack. another false start. I have another pair of 102s due in tomorrow that I'll have to refuse shipment of since I was swayed back to the starter pack vs adapter for several reasons. if the Mits adapter is the least bit finicky, at least the 350 would have checkerboard to fall back on. just want to be done with this, no more sending things back and no more being stuck with things I can't send back.


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

i called mitsubishi they said next shipping begining august







((


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *khee mao* /forum/post/18901320
> 
> 
> at this point, I am so flipping worn out from this 3D upgrade headache that I just want something that'll play nice.....



I can relate.









Such is the price that us early adopters pay.

I had similar headaches when I first went to HD in 2001.


----------



## khee mao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/18901323
> 
> 
> i called mitsubishi they said next shipping begining august
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ((




well how the heck did RC Willey get stock?!?!? and why did Mits make a press release a week or two back that these were already shipping?!?!? now apparently OneCall is shipping units. this has to be the most borked product launch ever.


----------



## Mounta1n




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *khee mao* /forum/post/18901320
> 
> 
> at this point, I am so flipping worn out from this 3D upgrade headache that I just want something that'll play nice. little did I know my xbox would need HDMI to play Avatar in 3D. upgraded. done. the Mits adapter only has one in/out so I upgraded my AV receiver to 1.4 but am not entirely happy with this purchase. sprung for 102s to play Avatar, now these are purported to not work in conjunction with the Mits starter pack. another false start. I have another pair of 102s due in tomorrow that I'll have to refuse shipment of since I was swayed back to the starter pack vs adapter for several reasons. if the Mits adapter is the least bit finicky, at least the 350 would have checkerboard to fall back on. just want to be done with this, no more sending things back and no more being stuck with things I can't send back.



Hey relax, it will all be worth it when you get to see Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs AND Monsters vs. Aliens in 3D before anyone else on your block. Then you can pack up the glasses for 4-6 months while you wait for Avatar and Alice in Wonderland to be available. If you don't want to pack up the glasses there are a few game demos on the PS3 you can try, or you can watch re-runs of the World Cup in 3D! Yeah!!!


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

does onecall has it in stock the starter kit??


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *khee mao* /forum/post/18901358
> 
> 
> well how the heck did RC Willey get stock?!?!? and why did Mits make a press release a week or two back that these were already shipping?!?!? now apparently OneCall is shipping units. this has to be the most borked product launch ever.



They are shipping. They didn't say everyone would have a stock of a million units.

Remember the PS3/Wii launch. Those were on ebay for tons of cash because of the lack of units made.


----------



## ChrisHawks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mounta1n* /forum/post/18901397
> 
> *Hey relax, it will all be worth it* when you get to see Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs AND Monsters vs. Aliens in 3D before anyone else on your block. Then you can pack up the glasses for 4-6 months while you wait for Avatar and Alice in Wonderland to be available. If you don't want to pack up the glasses there are a few game demos on the PS3 you can try, or you can watch re-runs of the World Cup in 3D! Yeah!!!



I agree! You guys will love the Mits glasses and adapter when you get them. Soon, for some of you! It has been worth the wait. I have been watching some awesome 3D programming on DirecTV. So be excited! It won't be much longer!!


---Chris


----------



## illthreat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/18901443
> 
> 
> does onecall has it in stock the starter kit??



They did. That's where I ordered mine from. Called today and was lucky. That was over 2 hours ago now.


Shipping has been confirmed as well. Just got the confirmation via email. Overnight delivery for AM 3D viewing!!










Give OneCall a ring... I originally missed out on both my local dealer and RCW. But was fortunate to get one through OC.


----------



## tflem777

So, not sure if One Call has anymore in stock, but I received confirmation of the starter kit. Its on its way.


----------



## cesar2010

Recording MLB ASG for later enjoyment...


----------



## abouels0827

Don't care...


----------



## wstaffor

Just got my shipping confirmation from One Call for the Adapter. Was One Call the first place to get Adapters, not Starter Kits? Seemed like everyone else only had the kits.


----------



## nc88keyz

onecall says adapters are in stock. the $99 adapter.


Im going to be pissed if they are lying.



Just ordered with bing cashback .....save a few bucks on the shipping cost.


----------



## Daniel Murray

My local Mitsubishi dealer dose not know when they will get there order.


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/18900287
> 
> 
> Vanns just got them In stock.



I've received my shipping notice from Vann, will have them Thursday.


Thanks for the heads up on this. I had an order at Amazon that I cancelled since they didn't even show an availability date.


----------



## audiopho

Someone please confirm...

I just ordered an adapter kit from Amazon (via Onecall).

I just ordered 2 pairs of Samsung SSG-2100AB from eBay.

I have a Mits 73837 TV along with DirecTV HD21 and I subscribe HD programming.
*And I still won't be able to watch 3d contents on my TV?*


----------



## njfoses




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18898497
> 
> 
> For non-1080p 3D content (such as 720p SBS), the converter must scale everything up to 1920x1080, since that is the resolution for the checkerboard format. It's been mentioned that the it will pas through 2D content... can anyone confirm that it's truly pass-through, as in 2D 720p isn't upscaled to 1080p?



This is an interesting question. Right now i have my directv hr24, wii, ps3 and xbox 360 running through a denon 3311 which is hdmi 1.4. I have the denon upconverting all sources to 1080p except for my ps3 which is set at passthrough. I plan on having the mits adapter as the last piece in the chain before my 73835 tv. Hopefully it can handle all thats thrown at it and only convert when necessary and leave everything else alone. Since im already upconverting to 1080p with the hr24 via the denon im assuming the mits adapter wont have to do any additional processing. Im also hoping the adapter can be powered on at all times.


----------



## wstaffor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiopho* /forum/post/18901736
> 
> 
> Someone please confirm...
> 
> I just ordered an adapter kit from Amazon (via Onecall).
> 
> I just ordered 2 pairs of Samsung SSG-2100AB from eBay.
> 
> I have a Mits 73837 TV along with DirecTV HD21 and I subscribe HD programming.
> *And I still won't be able to watch 3d contents on my TV?*



Correct, unless you ordered the Adapter Starter Kit that includes the emitter and 2 glasses. The Samsung glasses you ordered require an IR emitter and you won't have one. To watch 3D without an emitter, you need DLP Link glasses, like the Xpand X102.


----------



## nc88keyz

Will someone look at the 3d emitter and post back with the model number of the emitter. MGA-#####


This may be helpful for those who went with the adapter only kit.


Perhaps its in your manual under parts replacement for those who have recieved the bundle.


Thanks.


----------



## pajer

the adapter only kit comes with "1 glasses sync interconnect cable" is that the same as an ir emitter?


----------



## nc88keyz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Daniel Murray* /forum/post/18901709
> 
> 
> My local Mitsubishi dealer dose not know when they will get there order.





Three years ago my dealer wanted to really sell me a 73833 dlp model....They didnt get the sale because they were 600 higher than waltz in tempe. I was going to buy the warranty too.


I went thee last weekend to ask about the adapter availability. They shrugged and said , we probaby arent going to carry them, we might order them though if someone wants one.


I think i made a good decision to go with Walts based on the willingness to make a sale at that time.


----------



## advocate2

The bottom of the emitter has a part number: SSG-2100ME/ZA.



Looks like a Samsung part number to me.


----------



## cesar2010




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pajer* /forum/post/18901949
> 
> 
> the adapter only kit comes with "1 glasses sync interconnect cable" is that the same as an ir emitter?



Just wondering the interconnect cable goes from the converter to the HDTV... so wouldnt this http://cgi.ebay.com/Universal-3D-IR-...item4aa2e922a3 work since it connects to the converter and the tv is the one sending out the signal to the glasses? just a plausible solution..


glasses>emitter->mits Converter> interconnect cable>TV


----------



## wstaffor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cesar2010* /forum/post/18902000
> 
> 
> Just wondering the interconnect cable goes from the converter to the HDTV... so wouldnt this http://cgi.ebay.com/Universal-3D-IR-...item4aa2e922a3 work since it connects to the converter and the tv is the one sending out the signal to the glasses? just a plausible solution..
> 
> 
> glasses>emitter->mits Converter> interconnect cable>TV



The emitter in that eBay link will NOT work with the Samsung/Mits glasses, straight from the company that makes it.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cesar2010* /forum/post/18902000
> 
> 
> Just wondering the interconnect cable goes from the converter to the HDTV... so wouldnt this http://cgi.ebay.com/Universal-3D-IR-...item4aa2e922a3 work since it connects to the converter and the tv is the one sending out the signal to the glasses?



It's hard to say. The emitter has to be compatible with the glasses. Doesn't matter that the signal is coming from a Mits TV. That only tells the emitter WHEN to fire, not what kind of IR signal to send to the glasses. That might work, or it might just send a signal that is just as effective in actuating the glasses as any remote control in your house. The IR signals could be timed correctly, while still being a frequency the glasses ignore.


FWIW, the mits emitter part number is in the first post of this thread.







But googling it doesn't' find anything helpful.


----------



## wstaffor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18902048
> 
> 
> It's hard to say. The emitter has to be compatible with the glasses. Doesn't matter that the signal is coming from a Mits TV. That only tells the emitter WHEN to fire, not what kind of IR signal to send to the glasses. That might work, or it might just send a signal that is just as effective in actuating the glasses as any remote control in your house. The IR signals could be timed correctly, while still being a frequency the glasses ignore.
> 
> 
> FWIW, the mits emitter part number is in the first post of this thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But googling it doesn't' find anything helpful.



I spoke with the maker of that emitter over email this evening. He said it will NOT work with the newer Samsung glasses (which means, almost definitely, not with the Mits glasses either).


----------



## Darin

Good to know. Then I'll stick with the part of my post that says it might NOT work.


----------



## Coolrey3

im trying to get a 3d solution that will also include my pc for gaming.


does anyone know if i can use the glasses and emitter from the kit to use 3d on my pc? for example would i be able to view 3d with something like iz3d?


thanks


----------



## nc88keyz

so we wait for a source for the 3d emitter.



It wouldnt suprise me if the same project manager in charge of this product launch for 3D worked very closely with the techwriters of those manuals and spec sheets. Maybe the emitter is in fact included.


regardless, mitsubishi will sell them soon enough. Would be silly not to.


Im sure someone from samsung can source it too.


----------



## audiopho

Originally Posted by audiopho View Post

Someone please confirm...

I just ordered an adapter kit from Amazon (via Onecall).

I just ordered 2 pairs of Samsung SSG-2100AB from eBay.

I have a Mits 73837 TV along with DirecTV HD21 and I subscribe HD programming.

And I still won't be able to watch 3d contents on my TV?


Correct, unless you ordered the Adapter Starter Kit that includes the emitter and 2 glasses. The Samsung glasses you ordered require an IR emitter and you won't have one. To watch 3D without an emitter, you need DLP Link glasses, like the Xpand X102.


--------------------------------------------------------------------


Woo hoo..I'm in luck or what...Went to Amazon and canceled the adapter kit.

1/2 hr later, I then got a call from Onecall to confirm the cancellation and some.

Make a long story short, I just ordered a starter kit (the only one they just received from the FedEx truck today) from them for $421 including two days air to my home.


----------



## wstaffor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nc88keyz* /forum/post/18902129
> 
> 
> so we wait for a source for the 3d emitter.
> 
> 
> 
> It wouldnt suprise me if the same project manager in charge of this product launch for 3D worked very closely with the techwriters of those manuals and spec sheets. Maybe the emitter is in fact included.
> 
> 
> regardless, mitsubishi will sell them soon enough. Would be silly not to.
> 
> 
> Im sure someone from samsung can source it too.



Or just get x102s.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cesar2010* /forum/post/18901625
> 
> 
> Recording MLB ASG for later enjoyment...



I assume you mean you are recording it in 3D. My HR21 with the 3D update refuses to allow recording of n3D programming because I don't have the adapter yet. What's the secret or do you now have the adapter?


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18902187
> 
> 
> I assume you mean you are recording it in 3D. My HR21 with the 3D update refuses to allow recording of n3D programming because I don't have the adapter yet. What's the secret or do you now have the adapter?



Change the guide to ALL CHANNELS, then select the program you want and press record. You'll get a popup saying you're TV doesn't do 3D, want to record anyway, then another prompt saying you're not authorized for the channel, want to record anyway, just say yes to both of them. At least that's what I'm doing, hopefully in two days I'll find out if that's worked or not.


----------



## nc88keyz

ive not heard great things about the x102, loosing sync. several revisions etc. sounds like a headache. room not dark enought , CFL interference, proprietary batties. No thanks.


Plus the samsungs are better priced goggles on ebay.


----------



## audiopho

Is there a limit of how many pairs of glasses that may work with the starter kit?


----------



## cesar2010




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18902187
> 
> 
> I assume you mean you are recording it in 3D. My HR21 with the 3D update refuses to allow recording of n3D programming because I don't have the adapter yet. What's the secret or do you now have the adapter?



Well yes i meant the 3d feed, like someone else posted it gives you a bunch of warnings but it still allows u to record it.. I have the HR24 receiver from DTV also i can check my recordings with DIRECTV2PC program n the recordings do show as SBS.. so hopefully they will work when the adapter arrives on thursday from vanns.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cesar2010* /forum/post/18902294
> 
> 
> Well yes i meant the 3d feed, like someone else posted it gives you a bunch of warnings but it still allows u to record it.. I have the HR24 receiver from DTV also i can check my recordings with DIRECTV2PC program n the recordings do show as SBS.. so hopefully they will work when the adapter arrives on thursday from vanns.



the process you describe has worked for me for in the past. what I just discovered for the MLB ASG is that after clicking record a message pops up saying my receiver is not authorized and there is no option except OK. I believe this is happening because the program is already in progress. If I select a later show, such as the peter gabriel concert, it lets me proceed to the record anyway option.


So, I guess it makes a difference about whether the program to be recorded is in the future (OK) or in progress (not OK).


----------



## ChrisHawks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nc88keyz* /forum/post/18902216
> 
> 
> ive not heard great things about the x102, loosing sync. several revisions etc. sounds like a headache. room not dark enought , CFL interference, proprietary batties. No thanks.
> 
> 
> Plus the samsungs are better priced goggles on ebay.



And the X102s are goddawfully heavy on your nose for very long viewing. The Mits/ Samsung glasses are infinitely more comfortable, and I actually think the optical qualities match the Mits TV better than the Xpands. Just my 2 cents.


----------



## ChrisHawks




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiopho* /forum/post/18902268
> 
> 
> Is there a limit of how many pairs of glasses that may work with the starter kit?



No limit. All glasses must have a clear sight line to IR emitter to work well.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cesar2010* /forum/post/18902294
> 
> 
> Well yes i meant the 3d feed, like someone else posted it gives you a bunch of warnings but it still allows u to record it.. I have the HR24 receiver from DTV also i can check my recordings with DIRECTV2PC program n the recordings do show as SBS.. so hopefully they will work when the adapter arrives on thursday from vanns.



Thanks for the tip about viewing 3D recordings with DIRECT2PC. I just confirmed that all my recordings worked and show up in SBS. RC Willey, don't let me down!


----------



## dreaux

I am getting different interpretations on if a HDMI 1.3 receiver will work for 3D. Does anyone know if a 1.3 receiver will work with this start up kit or does one need an 1.4 receiver?

It sort of looks like the Samsung starter kits for the Samsung TV's need a 1.4 receiver but is that so on a Mits setup?

Jeez I can't afford a new receiver. My is a 1.3.


----------



## mds54

*Mits 833 series users:*

Since we need to use the FX Gaming label/setup, do you connect from a DVR to the kit to the TV and use the Game mode for all DVR viewing?

If so, do you use the TV A/V menu to turn FX Gaming on for DVR 3D and off for DVR HD/SD? Does the kit remote affect that?


----------



## illthreat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dreaux* /forum/post/18902645
> 
> 
> Jeez I can't afford a new receiver. My is a 1.3.



I hear you on that one! I believe this kit works with 1.3...


I can post up tomorrow AM when my starter kit arrives. I have a yamaha 1.3 (RX-V1065).


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChrisHawks* /forum/post/18883863
> 
> 
> I did , in fact, use the Samsung SSG-2100AB glasses with the Mits system, and they are identical and perform just as well as the stock Mits glasses. They are obviously from the same vendor, and for all intents and purposes, are the same glasses. Identical in every way.
> 
> 
> --Chris



I have the Samusng HL67A750 3D ready LED DLP and the Samsung SSG1000 glasses. I got the Samsung SSG2100's and they only worked for 10 seconds wiht the SSG1000 emitter and then turned off.


I guess the SSG 2100 are made to work with signal that is built into the Samsung 3d led lcds but the dlp doesnt have that so i knew it would need the emitter and assumed the SSG2100 would work with the SSG1000's emiter at same time as the SSG 1000 so i could have 2 ppl wear both glasses and use same emitter.


It seems like the SSG2100 could (and did for 10s) work wiht the SSG1000 emitter but that maybe Samsung did something to make the SSG2100 not keep the signal with the SSG1000 emitter because they want you to buy a new samusng tv and not use it with your legacy dlp.


What glasses will work in conjunction with the SSG1000 and its emitter?

maybe the Mitsu that are same as the SSG2100 will work while samsungs own dont?


jus like samsung has no 3d bluray player that works with its own dlp tvs and you have to use the panny 3d bluray player as it has the checkerboard option.


----------



## morganplus4

Quatre,


I have the Samsung HL-T5687SA DLP and I just purchased the SSG-1000 glasses hoping they would work with this entirely out of date, old, and abandoned TV, so far so good. I also own the Samsung 3D C6900 DVD Player and that anchor is waiting with hope that the Mitz converter does in fact work with Samsung hardward to pull the package together and allow me to see 3D.


So it's stop the presses and wait to see if we can get this stuff to work. That was a bold move on your part to buy the SG2100 glasses knowing you had the old style TV, I just couldn't take that chance and ordered more glasses that match my set.


And now we wait.


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

anyone here wants to donate or sell me one pair of xpand x 102 glasses?


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *morganplus4* /forum/post/18903367
> 
> 
> Quatre,
> 
> 
> I have the Samsung HL-T5687SA DLP and I just purchased the SSG-1000 glasses hoping they would work with this entirely out of date, old, and abandoned TV, so far so good. I also own the Samsung 3D C6900 DVD Player and that anchor is waiting with hope that the Mitz converter does in fact work with Samsung hardward to pull the package together and allow me to see 3D.
> 
> 
> So it's stop the presses and wait to see if we can get this stuff to work. That was a bold move on your part to buy the SG2100 glasses knowing you had the old style TV, I just couldn't take that chance and ordered more glasses that match my set.
> 
> 
> And now we wait.



The Mitsubishi adapter (according to the Mitsubishi web site) will work only with Mitsubishi TV's. The glasses with their kit are not 'Samsung' glasses, but manufactured by the same folks who make Samsung glasses. So the glasses that are sold for the new Samsung 3D TV's will work with the Mitsubishi adapter and emitter.


For your older Samsung '3D ready' TV, you will need a 3D source capable of outputting a 3D signal your TV will understand, and DLP link glasses like the XpanD 102's. The XpanD 102's do not need an emitter.


For 3D devices that do not output a 3D signal your older TV understands, there is no adapter yet available for you. Samsung has left you hanging for now.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *morganplus4* /forum/post/18903367
> 
> 
> Quatre,
> 
> 
> I have the Samsung HL-T5687SA DLP and I just purchased the SSG-1000 glasses hoping they would work with this entirely out of date, old, and abandoned TV, so far so good. I also own the Samsung 3D C6900 DVD Player and that anchor is waiting with hope that the Mitz converter does in fact work with Samsung hardward to pull the package together and allow me to see 3D.
> 
> 
> So it's stop the presses and wait to see if we can get this stuff to work. That was a bold move on your part to buy the SG2100 glasses knowing you had the old style TV, I just couldn't take that chance and ordered more glasses that match my set.
> 
> 
> And now we wait.



See the tru3d site for a Samsung dlp solution. Uses mits adapter with an hdmi edid spoofer they call an hdmi tool. Or, try a gefen hdmi detective and program it with someone's mits dlp and use that with the mits adapter. The latter will save you $100 if you find a good deal on the gefen device.


----------



## dreaux




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *illthreat* /forum/post/18902688
> 
> 
> I hear you on that one! I believe this kit works with 1.3...
> 
> 
> I can post up tomorrow AM when my starter kit arrives. I have a yamaha 1.3 (RX-V1065).



Great! Thanks...am looking forward to it.


----------



## GreggyJ

Amazon is now showing "Temporarily out of stock" for the adapter which is usually a sign they're about to start shipping in the next couple weeks.


----------



## audiopho




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GreggyJ* /forum/post/18903505
> 
> 
> Amazon is now showing "Temporarily out of stock" for the adapter which is usually a sign they're about to start shipping in the next couple weeks.



I believe Amazon (via Onecall) did have very few of these in stock a brief moment or two before they were quickly sold out.

Onecall yesterday had 12 of these in stock (sold by Amazon) and I grabbed their very last one since I am one of their special customers.


----------



## wstaffor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiopho* /forum/post/18903841
> 
> 
> I believe Amazon (via Onecall) did have very few of these in stock a brief moment or two before they were quickly sold out.
> 
> Onecall yesterday had 12 of these in stock (sold by Amazon) and I grabbed their very last one since I am one of their special customers.



I snagged an Adapter from Onecall via Amazon as well, already on the way via FedEx.


----------



## khee mao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/18903410
> 
> 
> anyone here wants to donate or sell me one pair of xpand x 102 glasses?



I'll have a pair I won't need anymore.


----------



## GreggyJ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiopho* /forum/post/18903841
> 
> 
> I believe Amazon (via Onecall) did have very few of these in stock a brief moment or two before they were quickly sold out.
> 
> Onecall yesterday had 12 of these in stock (sold by Amazon) and I grabbed their very last one since I am one of their special customers.



If so, that's ridiculous because I had one preordered since June 15 and didn't get one shipped.


----------



## wstaffor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GreggyJ* /forum/post/18904085
> 
> 
> If so, that's ridiculous because I had one preordered since June 15 and didn't get one shipped.



Preorders for items sold by Amazon don't count for things sold by someone else through Amazon. In those cases, Amazon is just the cashier.


----------



## scarabaeus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dreaux* /forum/post/18902645
> 
> 
> I am getting different interpretations on if a HDMI 1.3 receiver will work for 3D. Does anyone know if a 1.3 receiver will work with this start up kit or does one need an 1.4 receiver?
> 
> It sort of looks like the Samsung starter kits for the Samsung TV's need a 1.4 receiver but is that so on a Mits setup?
> 
> Jeez I can't afford a new receiver. My is a 1.3.



An older receiver that does not know about the HDMI 3D feature (i.e. an "1.3" receiver) will not pass the 3D VSDBs from the TV's EDID to the player, nor the 3D VSIs from the player to the TV.


This prevents the player from detecting that the TV can do 3D, and prevents it from automatically enabling the 3D mode in the TV. The DirecTV box so far is the only player that requires the VSDBs to output a 3D signal, all other players and TVs either don't care, or have a menu option to manually enable 3D.


Also, when it comes to 3D Blu-ray, an 1.3 receiver will not understand the 3D frame packing video signal, and will probably not be able to send it to through to the TV, or extract audio from it. But this is not a problem with broadcast 3D.


For the purpose of this discussion, "TV" refers to the combination of the Mitsubishi DLP and the 3DC-A1, since the 3DC has to be connected inbetween the receiver and the DLP. I think the 3DC has a user selection to force a 3D input mode, right?


----------



## cesar2010

It would be great if more users would post more videos n pictures of their adpaters n set-up to see what works and does not.. I will for sure when i get mine.


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GreggyJ* /forum/post/18904085
> 
> 
> If so, that's ridiculous because I had one preordered since June 15 and didn't get one shipped.



I'm in the same boat, Amazon preordered June 3 and still waiting.


----------



## jjknatl

Just received my optoma dlp link glasses. Will post a review of their performance (sync-flutter, ghost, rainbow, attentuation) relative to the x102 later today. Will also post on the issue of standard and reverse. If they turn out to be standard, then they should coexist nicely with the mits/sammy glasses.


Initial impressions:


postives: Optoma does a MUCH better job of packaging their glasses than Xpand IMO. Optoma glasses were surrounded by a form fitting foam enclosure, rather than a flimsy piece of bubble wrap with loose parts flying around. Also, optoma glasses have a comfortable and interchangeable rubber nosepiece with 3 sizes to choose from. Optoma glasses also use normal batteries so no future problems with supply or being overpriced.


negatives: Optoma glasses will not work for kids. earpieces are too wide at the back and glasses will not even stay on a kids head. Also, they are a bit clunkier and dorkier looking than x102s.


----------



## JamesN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18904401
> 
> 
> Just received my optoma dlp link glasses...*they are a bit clunkier and dorkier looking than x102s*.



Didn't think that was possible.










Thanks for sharing your impressions. Looking forward to a more detailed review.


----------



## bornagain1

Just got a call from UPS to set up delivery of my Mits 3D starter kit from RC Willey.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bornagain1* /forum/post/18904544
> 
> 
> Just got a call from UPS to set up delivery of my Mits 3D starter kit from RC Willey.



did you get an email from RC Willey confirming shipping? I got an email confirming the order but nothing yet to confirm shipping.


----------



## Zapix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/18902672
> 
> *Mits 833 series users:*
> 
> Since we need to use the FX Gaming label/setup, do you connect from a DVR to the kit to the TV and use the Game mode for all DVR viewing?
> 
> If so, do you use the TV A/V menu to turn FX Gaming on for DVR 3D and off for DVR HD/SD? Does the kit remote affect that?



yes, you have to go DVR -> Adapter -> TV, and use HDMI named GAME and set it to FX Gaming.


No, the adapter remote will likely not turn on/off our FX Gaming option, which unfortunately only works when the HDMI input is named GAME. So I am pretty sure we will have to enable/disable the FX Gaming option as needed. If you haven't enabled it before, go and see what I mean. The color and brightness change when it's enabled, which makes sense really. Personally, I think I will just use HDMI-3 connected to the adapter, and swap in and out as needed. I have walking space behind my 73833, so that helps make this idea easy.


----------



## rad

Got the e-mail from Vanns saying that the kit had shipped but FedEx web site says all they received with the shipping info yesterday, the package has not been picked up yet. A bit upset since I was told in a chat that it would ship yesterday and paid for 2 day delivery, waiting for a response from Vanns to an e-mail asking what happened.


----------



## njfoses




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18904612
> 
> 
> did you get an email from RC Willey confirming shipping? I got an email confirming the order but nothing yet to confirm shipping.



Im still waiting for my shipping conformation from RC Willey as well. Getting a little annoyed since i paid for 2 day shipping. If it does not ship out today i will be calling for a refund of the 2 day shipping up charge.


----------



## cesar2010




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rad* /forum/post/18904718
> 
> 
> Got the e-mail from Vanns saying that the kit had shipped but FedEx web site says all they received with the shipping info yesterday, the package has not been picked up yet. A bit upset since I was told in a chat that it would ship yesterday and paid for 2 day delivery, waiting for a response from Vanns to an e-mail asking what happened.



Same status except that i was told it would ship early today! but it only info sent to fedex... still has a delivery date for tomm...


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18904612
> 
> 
> did you get an email from RC Willey confirming shipping? I got an email confirming the order but nothing yet to confirm shipping.



I received an email with a UPS tracking number.

RC Willey IS shipping today!


----------



## abouels0827

Just got off the phone with rc willer got my tacking number and everything is good.


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zapix* /forum/post/18904673
> 
> 
> yes, you have to go DVR -> Adapter -> TV, and use HDMI named GAME and set it to FX Gaming.
> 
> No, the adapter remote will likely not turn on/off our FX Gaming option, which unfortunately only works when the HDMI input is named GAME. So I am pretty sure we will have to enable/disable the FX Gaming option as needed. If you haven't enabled it before, go and see what I mean. The color and brightness change when it's enabled, which makes sense really. Personally, I think I will just use HDMI-3 connected to the adapter, and swap in and out as needed. I have walking space behind my 73833, so that helps make this idea easy.



Thanks for the feedback! I thought I was all alone with the 833









Yes, I have played with the FX Gaming option and I have seen the color and brightness change significantly when 3D is turned on. When it is off, the PQ seems to be normal again, so I think I'll leave it there and just get used to my DVR connection being labeled Game.

I have also thought of switching HDMI cables manually until a HDMI 1.4 switch/splitter becomes available. Is there any reason you would not watch HD/SD from the DVR through the Game setup with 3D turned off?


----------



## pajer

i am receiving the 3dc-1000 starter kit from rc willey on friday and also receiving the 3da-1 adapter from one call on friday. I will not be needing the 3da-1 adapter so if a fellow avs forum mitsubishi tv owner is interested in the adapter please private message me. Pajer


----------



## pjb16




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njfoses* /forum/post/18904735
> 
> 
> Im still waiting for my shipping conformation from RC Willey as well. Getting a little annoyed since i paid for 2 day shipping. If it does not ship out today i will be calling for a refund of the 2 day shipping up charge.



Ditto.


----------



## pajer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pjb16* /forum/post/18905195
> 
> 
> Ditto.



i just called R C Willey and got second day air tracking # and asked for a credit because i am not getting it in the promised 2 days. they gave me a credit of 14.00 which is the difference of regular ground and 2nd day.


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pajer* /forum/post/18905222
> 
> 
> i just called R C Willey and got second day air tracking # and asked for a credit because i am not getting it in the promised 2 days. they gave me a credit of 14.00 which is the difference of regular ground and 2nd day.



Same here.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abouels0827* /forum/post/18904900
> 
> 
> Just got off the phone with rc willer got my tacking number and everything is good.



Tired of waiting so I did too and everything is good.


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

i just called to order the starter kit from rc willey they dont have any more kits in stock new arrivels on august they said..anyone else have them in stock?


----------



## mds54

I don't see them in stock anywhere at this point, but you might call around.

I think we cleaned everyone out yesterday.....


----------



## njfoses




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/18905258
> 
> 
> Same here.



Same here now as well.


----------



## Hermanos87

Anybody in need of 2 pairs of Xpand X102 DLP link glasses, I have a couple used pairs for sale, I will let them go for $150 combines, comes in original box with extra battery.


----------



## khee mao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18904612
> 
> 
> did you get an email from RC Willey confirming shipping? I got an email confirming the order but nothing yet to confirm shipping.



I had to call RC Willey this morning, two days after purchase, to request a tracking ID. they told me over the phone, I looked it up, and all it says is that UPS is aware that there's supposed to be a shipment. I'm not impressed.


----------



## mds54

There's no doubt that they screwed up big-time.

They weren't prepared to get swamped with orders like that.

As long as I receive my kit by Friday, I'll be okay with it.


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/18905666
> 
> 
> There's no doubt that they screwed up big-time.
> 
> They weren't prepared to get swamped with orders like that.
> 
> As long as I receive my kit by Friday, I'll be okay with it.



It was suppose to be in store only. Just be happy they are shipping it at all.
http://www.rcwilley.com/Electronics/...-Pack-View.jsp 

Even says it on the web sight.


----------



## illthreat

Just unpacked everything and hooked it up.


I'm using a 73737 Mitsu tv with PS3 and a yamaha 1065 receiver with 1.3.


Anywho.. trying to get the PS3 to output in 3d now. I may have to bypass the receiver if pass-through doesn't work.


EDIT/UPDATE- by hooking the PS3 directly to the adapter I was able to get the PS3 to "enable" the display under settings. It previously didn't detect through the AVR.


I will post back in a bit. Hopefully now that the PS3 knows the display type is 3D and is set to 73", I can re-hook up the yamaha 1065 for switching (and audio!) purposes...



UPDATE #2-


I have the yamaha 1065 (1.3) receiver back in the loop and everything is working flawlessly. I simply had to hook the PS3 directly up to the adapter / tv for it to recognize the display was 3d ready.


----------



## cesar2010

give us a review if u can specially with the ps3...etc


----------



## bhalbower

Just got my shipping confirmation from Vann’s on my 3D starter pack. I don’t have a TV provider broadcasting any 3D channels so I have to wait on some good 3D blu rays. I know there are not may out, but any suggestions on a good 3D blu ray? I saw someone mention IMAX under the sea, but I didn’t think that was released in 3D yet.


----------



## pjb16




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *illthreat* /forum/post/18905765
> 
> 
> Just unpacked everything and hooked it up.
> 
> 
> I'm using a 73737 Mitsu tv with PS3 and a yamaha 1065 receiver with 1.3.
> 
> 
> To the above post regarding that 1.3 won't work because it doesn't contain the packets.. not sure because the PS3 isn't 1.4 and does 3d just fine on 1.3. (maybe I mis-read what you typed)
> 
> 
> Anywho.. trying to get the PS3 to output in 3d now. I may have to bypass the receiver if passthrough doesn't work.



The ps3 won't work recognize the Mits as a 3Dtv unless you have an adapter.


----------



## illthreat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pjb16* /forum/post/18905827
> 
> 
> The ps3 won't work recognize the Mits as a 3Dtv unless you have an adapter.



umm.. thanks.. But, I HAVE the 3DC-1000.. or I wouldn't be posting in this thread.


----------



## illthreat

Just put on Pacific Rift 3D demo and HOLY FREAKIN CRAP!










edited for duplicate posting


----------



## illthreat

MOST AWESOME!



3D WORKS with the 1.3 yamaha 1065 in the LOOP!












currently- PS3>1065>3DC-1000>73737 =












I'll have a full review, pics of the adapter, etc. on my personal site later today.. Right now.. it's Pacific Rift time in 7.1 and 3D awesomeness.


Be back later !


----------



## GreggyJ

Just talked to Amazon and they said they expect to be shipping these by August 1.


----------



## cesar2010

OMG im so excited i ordered a smart hdmi switch box hoping i wont have to plug n unplug cables between DTV n PS3 n your loop gives me hope...


----------



## illthreat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cesar2010* /forum/post/18905957
> 
> 
> OMG im so excited i ordered a smart hdmi switch box hoping i wont have to plug n unplug cables between DTV n PS3 n your loop gives me hope...



I hope it works for you brother. I was feeling as if I had to buy another receiver.. SO GLAD I don't have to now!


Just had to plug the PS3 directly to the adapter so that it could detect the 3d display FIRST. (it wouldn't do it with the yamaha in the loop)


Put the yamaha back and and perfection.


----------



## audiopho

Mine will be here Friday from Onecall via FedEx two days air. Confirmed by FedEx site.

I will be a little kid once again this weekend...busily expanding my HT from 5.1 to 7.1 and this 3d setup, of course.

For 3d gaming experience...

To play 3d games, would any PS3 player work with the current set up I have as follows Mits 73837 tv and 3da-100 kit?


----------



## cesar2010

Yes both versions slim n original have the ability to do it... The only difference would be price n the type of accesories you can hook up n disk space.


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenisG* /forum/post/18905697
> 
> 
> It was suppose to be in store only. Just be happy they are shipping it at all.
> http://www.rcwilley.com/Electronics/...-Pack-View.jsp
> 
> Even says it on the web sight.



By the same token, once you've paid for 2-day air shipping on a specific date,

it should be honored or refunded, since it was offered.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18904401
> 
> 
> Just received my optoma dlp link glasses. Will post a review of their performance (sync-flutter, ghost, rainbow, attentuation) relative to the x102 later today. Will also post on the issue of standard and reverse. If they turn out to be standard, then they should coexist nicely with the mits/sammy glasses.
> 
> 
> Initial impressions:
> 
> 
> postives: Optoma does a MUCH better job of packaging their glasses than Xpand IMO. Optoma glasses were surrounded by a form fitting foam enclosure, rather than a flimsy piece of bubble wrap with loose parts flying around. Also, optoma glasses have a comfortable and interchangeable rubber nosepiece with 3 sizes to choose from. Optoma glasses also use normal batteries so no future problems with supply or being overpriced.
> 
> 
> negatives: Optoma glasses will not work for kids. earpieces are too wide at the back and glasses will not even stay on a kids head. Also, they are a bit clunkier and dorkier looking than x102s.



CRAP!!!! Optoma rainbow is probably worse than that with the x102s. Photos of the rainbows from both at this link. Now I'm worried that this is a TV issue and I'll see the rainbows with any glasses. Has anyone contacted Mits about the rainbow?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post18906152


----------



## advocate2

Illthreat,


The PS3 works fine through the Yamaha. I have posted this in several threads. It's the Directv that won't work through the Yamaha.


I'm not convinced that just because the PS3 works now that it will still work with the new firmware update in September. No one will know until we try it.


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GreggyJ* /forum/post/18905956
> 
> 
> Just talked to Amazon and they said they expect to be shipping these by August 1.



Good thing I'm not in a hurry.


----------



## illthreat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *advocate2* /forum/post/18906177
> 
> 
> Illthreat,
> 
> 
> The PS3 works fine through the Yamaha. I have posted this in several threads. It's the Directv that won't work through the Yamaha.
> 
> 
> I'm not convinced that just because the PS3 works now that it will still work with the new firmware update in September. No one will know until we try it.



The PS3 won't DETECT that the display is 3D ready with the Yamaha hooked up. See my above posts.


However, after getting the PS3 to detect the Yamaha does work. I'm enjoying it all right now.










Sony isn't going to remove compatibility in September. I have been in communication with them regarding this very issue. It will still work in September with the 3D Blu Ray firmware upgrade.


----------



## bori




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *advocate2* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Illthreat,
> 
> 
> The PS3 works fine through the Yamaha. I have posted this in several threads. It's the Directv that won't work through the Yamaha.
> 
> 
> I'm not convinced that just because the PS3 works now that it will still work with the new firmware update in September. No one will know until we try it.



That's a 1.3 receiver? So 3d movie watching works after the adapter is onthe output of your receiver.


----------



## Hyabusha

Illthreat,


So you plug the ps3 into the adaptor to get the ps3 to recognize the TV. Then the ps3's 3D settings are unlocked? Then you plug the ps3 into the yamaha back to the adapter into the tv. Do the settings reset after you turn off your ps3?


Thanks


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/18906166
> 
> 
> By the same token, once you've paid for 2-day air shipping on a specific date,
> 
> it should be honored or refunded, since it was offered.



I agree, but you guys can't sit there and complain, "I can't believe they weren't prepared for the flood of orders". Of course they weren't prepared, it wasn't a shipping item. It is in store only. You guys begged them to ship it and then blame them for a minor oops in the system from your flood of calls.


----------



## illthreat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bori* /forum/post/18906230
> 
> 
> That's a 1.3 receiver? So 3d movie watching works after the adapter is onthe output of your receiver.




Yamaha RX-V1065 is a 1.3(a) HDMI AVR.


I'm only commenting/posting on the 3D GAMING. I haven't bothered to try a movie as it's not supported yet.


----------



## Hyabusha

Any new YouTube videos on the kit?


----------



## illthreat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/18906241
> 
> 
> Illthreat,
> 
> 
> So you plug the ps3 into the adaptor to get the ps3 to recognize the TV. Then the ps3's 3D settings are unlocked? Then you plug the ps3 into the yamaha back to the adapter into the tv. Do the settings reset after you turn off your ps3?
> 
> 
> Thanks



You are correct.


I just turned the PS3 off and turned it back on. No worries; all is well and good in 3D land.







The settings are retained as we would expect.


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenisG* /forum/post/18906256
> 
> 
> I agree, but you guys can't sit there and complain, "I can't believe they weren't prepared for the flood of orders". Of course they weren't prepared, it wasn't a shipping item. It is in store only. You guys begged them to ship it and then blame them for a minor oops in the system from your flood of calls.




Please re-read my posts. I never complained, blamed them for the initial "oops", or begged them. I can easily believe that they were unprepared for the onslaught. I spent three phone calls and five emails working with them. I was mostly reiterating what THEY told me and I was simply passing it on FYI here.

Okay?


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *illthreat* /forum/post/18906301
> 
> 
> You are correct.
> 
> 
> I just turned the PS3 off and turned it back on. No worries; all is well and good in 3D land.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The settings are retained as we would expect.



Nice, where are the 3D settings located on the ps3's dash? Oh and what's you website to see your review and pics' n stuff?


Thanks!


----------



## nc88keyz

deleted


----------



## njfoses




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *illthreat* /forum/post/18906301
> 
> 
> You are correct.
> 
> 
> I just turned the PS3 off and turned it back on. No worries; all is well and good in 3D land.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The settings are retained as we would expect.



When you get a sec can you please test video passthrough with the ps3? Im curious if the adapter will upconvert everything to 1080p when powered on and if it passes through native resolution when the adapter is powered off. Ideally i would like to not have to turn it on/off but im not sure if it will passthrough when powered on and not displaying 3d.


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/18906329
> 
> 
> Please re-read my posts. I never complained, blamed them for the initial "oops", or begged them. I can easily believe that they were unprepared for the onslaught. I spent three phone calls and five emails working with them. I was mostly reiterating what THEY told me and I was simply passing it on FYI here.
> 
> Okay?



I wasn't trying to single you out directly, but the quote kinda made it seem like a few people were irritated.

I may have read that the wrong way also. It was getting close to the end of the work day and a beer was sounding alot better then coffee. LOL.









I myself can't use the adapter right now anyway. I do want it to try the glasses to see if I want to keep them and off load my X102's since they don't fit me very well. I'm leaning towards off loading the X102's regardless.


----------



## illthreat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/18906383
> 
> 
> Nice, where are the 3D settings located on the ps3's dash?
> 
> 
> Thanks!




The PS3 XMB path- Settings>Display Settings>Video Output Settings, Auto detect.


----------



## illthreat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njfoses* /forum/post/18906435
> 
> 
> When you get a sec can you please test video passthrough with the ps3? Im curious if the adapter will upconvert everything to 1080p when powered on and if it passes through native resolution when the adapter is powered off. Ideally i would like to not have to turn it on/off but im not sure if it will passthrough when powered on and not displaying 3d.



Sure, np.


The adapter will NOT pass-through when powered off.










I can check the rest later for you. can you elaborate more please?


----------



## njfoses




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *illthreat* /forum/post/18906502
> 
> 
> Sure, np.
> 
> 
> The adapter will NOT pass-through when powered off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can check the rest later for you. can you elaborate more please?



So you are saying if the adapter is off, and is hooked up after the receiver, no video passes through at all to the tv it is just a blank screen when playing something that is not 3d? Also set the output of your yamaha to something other than 1080p such as 720p and play something non 3d on the ps3 and see if it passes through 720p to your display when the adapter is on and off. Thanks again.


----------



## NSX1992

Will someone who has the kit confirm if the Xpand102 will or will not work in conjunction with the mitsubishi glasses. My IO Display System glasses with emitter do work together with the 102s. I ordered the adaptor kit only from my local Mitsubishi dealer (Wilshire Home Entertainment) and it will be very very soon. They have one starter kit still available (received several last Monday) and I will buy the starter kit if 102s will work together.


----------



## mikeyari




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NSX1992* /forum/post/18906767
> 
> 
> Will someone who has the kit confirm if the Xpand102 will or will not work in conjunction with the mitsubishi glasses. My IO Display System glasses with emitter do work together with the 102s. I ordered the adaptor kit only from my local Mitsubishi dealer (Wilshire Home Entertainment) and it will be very very soon. They have one starter kit still available (received several last Monday) and I will buy the starter kit if 102s will work together.



NSX1992, I hear they do not as the x102`s require the Mits to be put in reverse mode to show correctly, while the Mits and Samsung ssg-p2100ab`s require the standard mode.


So from what I`ve read, they do not syncin the same mode.


----------



## mikeyari

Now I had been wondering if the IR emitter that works with I/O glasses would work with the Samsung or mits glasses, that way I could just get the 3DA-1 Adaptar and the I/O emitter.



since you say the I/O glasses and Mits are syncing, this would mean that they only work in reverse mode?


Can you try the I/O glasses in standard mode with ir emitter and see if they work right?



If not, then that emitter problably won`t work with the ssg 2100ab or mits glasses.


----------



## cesar2010

package finally shipped from vanns... scheduele delivery on friday afternoon...more like 3 days than 2 days... but at least is on the way...BTW i hate fedex...prefer ups hands down..


----------



## rgd18

For what it's worth, ABT.COM customer service still saying that 3DA-1 Adapter (only, no glasses) will ship this week in "limited quantities". I ordered mine on 6/15 and they told me that the expected quantity was sufficient to cover my order. This info is as of this morning, which was a reiteration of what they told me this past Saturday.


----------



## illthreat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njfoses* /forum/post/18906665
> 
> 
> So you are saying if the adapter is off, and is hooked up after the receiver, no video passes through at all to the tv it is just a blank screen when playing something that is not 3d?



Correct.



> Quote:
> Also set the output of your yamaha to something other than 1080p such as 720p and play something non 3d on the ps3 and see if it passes through 720p to your display when the adapter is on and off. Thanks again.



I set the output of the Yamaha to 720 and the display still said 1080. So it must upscale.


I turned the power off the adapter and blank screen; no pass through.


Let me know if you want me to try anything else for you.


----------



## illthreat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cesar2010* /forum/post/18906997
> 
> 
> BTW i hate fedex...prefer ups hands down..




It's funny you brought up FedEx. I had overnight AM delivery and they didn't show up until 2pm.. blamed it on the weather of course.


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cesar2010* /forum/post/18906997
> 
> 
> package finally shipped from vanns... scheduele delivery on friday afternoon...more like 3 days than 2 days... but at least is on the way...BTW i hate fedex...prefer ups hands down..



The e-mail I got from Vann's about why I got a shipped e-mail yesterday but no FedEx pickup follows:

_"Perhaps XXXX did not see the timestamp on the processing of your order, but unfortunately, your order was received and therefore processed after the last expedited shipment went out for the day. Any orders processed after that time get picked up the next business day. Once it has processed, there is a note that says shipped in the order, but if you do not see the time it was "shipped" you might miss that it wouldn't actually be picked up by Fedex until the next day.


Since we didn't even receive your order until the afternoon, there is no way it

could have gone out the same day. Typically orders are processed within 24 to 48 hours of receiving the order, but we did make sure yours was processed as soon as possible so that it would at least go out the next day. Your item should be there on Friday. I do apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused you."_


So it wasn't a FedEx problem but Vann's internal processing that caused the extra day. I ordred a new receiver from OneCall with 3 day FedEx. It shipped on Monday afternoon and got it today a day early.


----------



## NSX1992

Playing Avatar (only 3D source available without the adaptor) my 82" Mits is set in standard and both IO and Xpand 102s work perfectly together. No I don't think the IO emitter will work with Samsung or Mits glasses because they have to have the same transmission signal. I just went to my dealer and tried my Xpand 102s with their new 75" LaserVue and starter kit and they did not work so I did not buy the kit. Since the 102 requires DLP Link it may be that the LaserVue does not have the bulb to emit the signal. However when we tried last week the old 65" LaserVue using Panasonic 3D BR player outputing chekerboard the glasses worked. Mystery? Maybe tomorrow they will have time to connect the kit to a regular DLP to try again.


----------



## cesar2010




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NSX1992* /forum/post/18907174
> 
> 
> I just went to my dealer and tried my Xpand 102s with their new 75" LaserVue and starter kit and they did not work so I did not buy the kit.



What dealer is this perhaps that way some members can order the kit from them if they have them.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NSX1992* /forum/post/18907174
> 
> 
> Playing Avatar (only 3D source available without the adaptor) my 82" Mits is set in standard and both IO and Xpand 102s work perfectly together. No I don't think the IO emitter will work with Samsung or Mits glasses because they have to have the same transmission signal. I just went to my dealer and tried my Xpand 102s with their new 75" LaserVue and starter kit and they did not work so I did not buy the kit. Since the 102 requires DLP Link it may be that the LaserVue does not have the bulb to emit the signal. However when we tried last week the old 65" LaserVue using Panasonic 3D BR player outputing chekerboard the glasses worked. Mystery? Maybe tomorrow they will have time to connect the kit to a regular DLP to try again.



According to the Mits _3D Updates & FAQs_ answer #10:

http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/3D.html 


> Quote:
> Yes, all Mitsubishi 3D Ready TVs are compatible with DLP Link glasses



And the Laservues are 3D ready.


----------



## Augerhandle

Mitsubishi is now listing their glasses ($165), EMITTER ($48.20), and remote ($0?) separately on their web site: http://www.mitsuparts.com/ModelSelection.aspx and type in 3dc-1000


----------



## abouels0827

so need for speed hot pursuit will be out in november and supports 3d, sounds cool. Also playstation got a game called fight which will support move and 3d expected late september.


----------



## illthreat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abouels0827* /forum/post/18907510
> 
> 
> so need for speed hot pursuit will be out in november and supports 3d, sounds cool. Also playstation got a game called fight which will support move and 3d expected late september.



OT: Gran Turismo 5 (nov. '10) and Killzone 3 (2011) are both 3D as well.


Times are a changin'



edit- forgot about these- Mortal Kombat, Crysis 2, Tron, Shaun White, MotorStorm: Apocalypse, NBA 2K11 and Ghost Recon.


----------



## abouels0827

Yeah cysis 2 as well and mortal kombat and I'm sure many more will also be coming


----------



## kujustin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenisG* /forum/post/18906256
> 
> 
> I agree, but you guys can't sit there and complain, "I can't believe they weren't prepared for the flood of orders". Of course they weren't prepared, it wasn't a shipping item. It is in store only. You guys begged them to ship it and then blame them for a minor oops in the system from your flood of calls.



Yeah, I would consider myself lucky to have one shipped to me. I actually as in Vegas last weekend but my friend's car broke down when we got into town and we had no transportation until Sunday at which point RC was closed.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18904401
> 
> 
> Just received my optoma dlp link glasses. Will post a review of their performance (sync-flutter, ghost, rainbow, attentuation) relative to the x102 later today. Will also post on the issue of standard and reverse. If they turn out to be standard, then they should coexist nicely with the mits/sammy glasses.



OK, I did a side by side comparison with x102s. For optomas, I see no ghosting, no flutter at all, and only a little more attentuation than with x102s. What I do see is that the screen looks "better" with the optomas IMO. In comparison, with the x102s it is like a clear film is covering the lenses giving the screen a slight hazy appearance that I had not noticed until doing this direct comparison. Also, the optomas sync instantly, no flutter at all during sync and I never lost sync unless I looked away for more than 5 seconds, and this includes watching the grand canyon raft scene several times on the demo disc.


The bummer for the optomas, in addition to the minor negatives I listed in the earlier post, is that I still see the rainbows and they also require the REVERSE setting. So, I don't think the optomas will work with the Mits/Sammy glasses.


If you don't see rainbows with the x102s, chances are you won't see them with the optomas. So, If you plan to use only DLP Link glasses, give the optomas serious consideration. I got these for $90 shipped.


Bottom line: If I had to keep one or the other for myself, I'd keep the optomas, but I'd keep the x102s for my kids for better fit. However, I'm returning both the x102s and the optomas in hopes that the Mits glasses have no rainbows. For me, the rainbows have been the biggest negative of both pairs of DLP Link glasses and the rainbows are pretty much a deal breaker on the whole 3D concept because they are so distracting.


For the hell of it I put one set of glasses in front of the other face to face and looked through to see what the lenses look like during the darked out phase (at any given instant, left eye is blocked by one pair of glasses while right eye is blocked by the other pair of glasses). Doesn't completely block light, but dark enough to obscure perception of what is on the screen and apparently that is all it takes.


----------



## saxophone4

I was able to snag the 3DC-1000 from Vann's. Just got lucky the other day and saw they were in stock.


I should get it today and I'll let everyone know how it works with Comcast 3D.


I'll be running a Comcast Moto HD box, Xbox 360, Wii, PS3, and HomeDockHD through an Onky TX-SR605 to a Mits 73737.


Also coming is a Samsung starter kit coming with the two pairs of glasses and Monsters Vs. Aliens, Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs 3D Blu-Ray, and IMAX Grand Canyon 3D Blu-Ray (from Germany).


Now the big question I need help with is, if all this works post 1.3 reciever, do I need to buy the Panasonic DMP-BDT350 or 300, or will another 3D player work fine? I know I can wait for the September PS3 update...but patience is a virtue I lack. Not sure if I need the separate HDMI audio outputs of the Panny for my 1.3 receiver or if a Samsung or Sony will work fine??? I must have 7.1 sound. Is the firmware easy to load on the Sony? I noticed that some of the Samsung versions appear to have the option to make 2D movies 3D. Not sure if anyone has tried it, but I'd appreciate any input. Is the picture quality pretty standard from model to model, or is a certain model better?


Sorry for all the questions, I'll return the favor with input on what I find tomorrow.


Thanks,

Jeff


----------



## bori




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *saxophone4* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I was able to snag the 3DC-1000 from Vann's. Just got lucky the other day and saw they were in stock.
> 
> 
> I should get it today and I'll let everyone know how it works with Comcast 3D.
> 
> 
> I'll be running a Comcast Moto HD box, Xbox 360, Wii, PS3, and HomeDockHD through an Onky TX-SR605 to a Mits 73737.
> 
> 
> I also have a Samsung starter kit coming with the two pairs of glasses and Monsters Vs. Aliens, Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs 3D, and IMAX Grand Canyon 3D.
> 
> 
> Now the big question I need help with is, if all this works post 1.3 reciever, do I need to buy the Panasonic DMP-BDT350 or 300, or will another 3D player work fine? I know I can wait for the September PS3 update...but patience is a virtue I lack. Not sure if I need the separate HDMI audio outputs of the Panny for my 1.3 receiver or if a Samsung or Sony will work fine??? I must have 7.1 sound. Is the firmware easy to load on the Sony? I noticed that some of the Samsung versions appear to have the option to make 2D movies 3D. Not sure if anyone has tried it, but I'd appreciate any input. Is the picture quality pretty standard from model to model, or is a certain model better?
> 
> 
> Sorry for all the questions, I'll return the favor with input on what I find tomorrow.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Jeff



Let us know if it works.


----------



## Scubawoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *saxophone4* /forum/post/18907764
> 
> 
> I noticed that some of the Samsung versions appear to have the option to make 2D movies 3D. Not sure if anyone has tried it, but I'd appreciate any input.



I did a lot of reading about the Samsungs and thought the same as you. Some of their advertising info is misleading. After finding out more info. it apparently are the Samsung displays that have the ability to convert 2D to 3D, not the 3D players.

I also have a 1.3 receiver and not ready to buy another for many years. I wanted the best bang for the buck and felt the Panasonic 350 gives you the best in options for the money. Having the extra HDMI output allows you to use your receiver for audio rather than your display speakers. Also, it does have 7.1 output as well if need be which some other 3D players don't have. Panasonic has given good support for their other blu-ray players offering firmware updates to fix problems. I bought one that should be here tomorrow.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scubawoman* /forum/post/18907844
> 
> 
> I wanted the best bang for the buck and felt the Panasonic 350 gives you the best in options for the money. Having the extra HDMI output allows you to use your receiver for audio rather than your display speakers. Also, it does have 7.1 output as well if need be which some other 3D players don't have. Panasonic has given good support for their other blu-ray players offering firmware updates to fix problems. I bought one that should be here tomorrow.



I have the Panny 300 and it is the perfect solution IMO. Since it outputs checkerboard, you don't need an adapter and can pass the audio and 3D video via the same HDMI output through your 1.3 receiver if you wish (which I do) or send 3D video directly to the TV via the main HDMI and audio to the receiver via the secondary HDMI (the latter being the solution for those with 1.4 TVs).


Another nice use of the dual HDMIs that I believe should be possible is that you can use 1 HDMI output for 3d video and the other HDMI output for 2D if you don't mind using 2 HDMI inputs for the same source. So, if you have a TV that won't automatically switch modes based on content, you can instead choose the HDMI input for 2D or the HDMI input for 3D depending upon whether your content is 2D or 3D and never have to mess with the 3D mode setting via the menu afte initial setup. Would be nice if DirecTV would provide the extra HDMI out in future receivers for the same reason.


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *morganplus4* /forum/post/18903367
> 
> 
> Quatre,
> 
> 
> I have the Samsung HL-T5687SA DLP and I just purchased the SSG-1000 glasses hoping they would work with this entirely out of date, old, and abandoned TV, so far so good. I also own the Samsung 3D C6900 DVD Player and that anchor is waiting with hope that the Mitz converter does in fact work with Samsung hardward to pull the package together and allow me to see 3D.
> 
> 
> So it's stop the presses and wait to see if we can get this stuff to work. That was a bold move on your part to buy the SG2100 glasses knowing you had the old style TV, I just couldn't take that chance and ordered more glasses that match my set.
> 
> 
> And now we wait.



of course the SSG-1000's you ordered work with the Samsung dlp set. as long as its a 3d set then it would. the SSG 1000's come with an emitter.

Bad news for you though, the MItz converter does not work with samsung tvs and your Samsung 3d bluray player wont either as it doesnt do checkerboard. You should have got the panasonic bdt350 as it does have an option for checkerboard and then you dont need any converter.


there is a converter for the samsung dlp but all it is is the mitz converter with some work around that they charge extra for so the converter for samsung dlps is kinda pricey.


I'm annoyed about that and not sure what to do other then to just suck it up and get that converter that works with samsung dlp for content not from the panny 3d bluray player that supports checkerboard but so far I dont have any content that needs the side by side to checkerboard conversion as sadly another agravation for me is having FIOS.


The worst thing about that is that I previously had Comcast and Directv both. that would have been great to have the 3d from both providers but Directv sucked in several ways including on demand and going out in weather. Comcast didnt have nearly as much HD as fios and i was sick of paying them for so many years as we had them to start and stupidly kept them when we had fios and then when we dropped fios for directv we kept comcast with one hd dvr box so once fios had the most hd again, i was happy to drop directv and comcast and have just fios.


now this with no 3d on fios. they are getting it by the fall or holiday season and claim the reason they are delayed is because they want to be the best provider of 3d to beat the others just like how they offer the most hd but i dont fully buy that story.


I dont know what i'm going to do about that but i dont think i can stand to swtich back to comcast or directv and have their ppl in my house so i may just wait it out. the thing with these dlps is that the 3d isn't full hd 1080p to each eye anyway so the new 3d sets are going to be better and not require a converter. I just can't do a lamp based dlp anymore so the LED dlp is the way to go and i love my 67" but may get the samsung 65" 3d led lcd .


meantime I really just want a second pair of 3d glasses to work with the dlp and the SSG1000's i have. It wasn't such a risk to get the SSG2100's considering i got them from best buy and returend when they didnt' work. the point here is that the SSG2100's are the same as the mitsu glasses so those wont work with the SSG1000 emitter either.


so what should someone with a samsung tv do? no use getting the mitz starter kit as it comes with a converter that wont work with samsung dlp. I just need the emitter and the 2 glasses and then i could sell my ssg 1000's which i'm sure ppl are looking for cus personally i would buy another pair of those and be done for now but can't find SSG1000 anywhere.


The samsung starter kit i dont think comes iwth an emitter so basically i need the emitter of the mitz starter kit and the 2 glasses and then have to sel the converter and my ssg1000's and then i can buy an individual pairs of Samsung SSG2100 that will work with the mitsu emitter as the glasses that come with it in the starter kit are the same as SSG2100 and sounds like even the emitter is samsung model


so why the hell dont they sell the emitter for ppl that bought the samsung version of the ssg2100.


Again i guess my best bet is to get the mitsu starer kit and then sell the converter and my ssg1000's. get the samsung converter (which is just mitsu with a hack that you overpay for so some ppl are trying to see how to do the work around themselves)


then for 2 more pairs i guess i could get the samsung starter kit which i thin just comes with 2 glasses and no emitter and MvA 3d booray.


good thing about that scenario is that id then have 4 pairs of glasses and an emitter i can use now and then those same 4 pairs would work with no emitter with the Samsung 65" led lcd.


so yeah unless i'm wrong on something there i think i just figured out my plan despite it requiring a bunch of buying and selling.


Is there any way to get the emitter that comes with the mitsu starter kit separately? thats all i need and then i could just buy 2 paris of the samsung branded ssg2100's to work with it but at $150 a pair, the starter kit prob has better value even if i have to sell the converter. ugh.


being an early adapter does suck and especially all this trouble for limited content and then having to switch tv provider only for fios to get 3d a few months later and me wanting to switch back, :/


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Athlon646464* /forum/post/18903423
> 
> 
> The Mitsubishi adapter (according to the Mitsubishi web site) will work only with Mitsubishi TV's. The glasses with their kit are not 'Samsung' glasses, but manufactured by the same folks who make Samsung glasses. So the glasses that are sold for the new Samsung 3D TV's will work with the Mitsubishi adapter and emitter.
> 
> 
> For your older Samsung '3D ready' TV, you will need a 3D source capable of outputting a 3D signal your TV will understand, and DLP link glasses like the XpanD 102's. The XpanD 102's do not need an emitter.
> 
> 
> For 3D devices that do not output a 3D signal your older TV understands, there is no adapter yet available for you. Samsung has left you hanging for now.



you are incorrect in a few areas here. First off the Samsung HL67A760 LED DLP is no older then any mitsu dlps (plus those are all lamp based). Also there is an adapter to convert the signal for samsung tvs. its just the mitsu converter with a work around to defeat the thing Mitsu purposely and maliciously put in it to make it not work with samsung tvs.


As I have sad, the SSG1000 emitter does not seem to work with the SSG2100's. So my best bet seems to be to buy the Mitsu starter pack just for the 2 pair of glasses and emitter and then sell the adapter. Then I can get any individuallly sold pair (at best buy say) of Samsung SSG2100 and they will work with the emitter that comes with the mitz starter pack.


then I just have to get the converter made to work with samsung and sell the pair of SSG1000's (or i can try to find a second pair of SSG1000) but those are impossible to find anymore and i dont think they will work with new samsung 3d tv (which i'm porbably getting at some point) where as glasses in the mitsu starter pack (which are samsung ssg2100's) will work with new samsung 3d led lcd.


or if i can find someone selling the emitter separately from the mitsu starter pack of if mitsu starts selling that separately i could just get that and then purchase the ssg2100's separately.


so no i dont have to get glasses with dlp link that then wont work with new 3d tvs.


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18903488
> 
> 
> See the tru3d site for a Samsung dlp solution. Uses mits adapter with an hdmi edid spoofer they call an hdmi tool. Or, try a gefen hdmi detective and program it with someone's mits dlp and use that with the mits adapter. The latter will save you $100 if you find a good deal on the gefen device.



thankyou for properly explaining this better then I did for those that were misinformed.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Quatre* /forum/post/18907948
> 
> 
> [snip] ...so why the hell dont they sell the emitter for ppl that bought the samsung version of the ssg2100... [snip]



Mits is now selling the emitter separately.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post18907445


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pjb16* /forum/post/18905827
> 
> 
> The ps3 won't work recognize the Mits as a 3Dtv unless you have an adapter.



why wont the ps3 work without adapter? that is crap because the Avatar game for 360 (and I head same for ps3) worked fine on dlp tvs with no 3d update and no adapters nothing. I guess though its because the game itself had an option for checkerboard/dlp and I guess the 3d demo games that ps3 has now dont have any such option.


obviously though the option can be built into the software (game or movie) so it annoys me that you have to buy a 3d bluray player when clearly the player doenst' matter if 3d games worked on same player (in this case game console) with no updates or anything and on any tv (side by side 3d and dlp checkerboard).


So all the content/software (game or bluray movie)could technically play on any console or bluray player without needing an update or a whole new 3d bluray player but they purposely made 3d blurays require 3d bluray player. Also if a game can have the option to do checkerboard so could the bluray movie. they are just forcing ppl to buy new bluray players and tvs.


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Augerhandle* /forum/post/18907431
> 
> 
> Mitsubishi is now listing their glasses ($165), EMITTER ($48.20), and remote ($0?) separately on their web site: http://www.mitsuparts.com/ModelSelection.aspx and type in 3dc-1000



w00t! on second try got the site working and exactly what I was looking for with the emitter sold sep! now if my calculations are correct. I can just get that and then either the glasses from them or the samsung ssg2100's from anywhere separately, and then the converter with the workaround built in to work with samsung dlp.


instead of getting the glasses from mitsu separately for $165 plus tax shipping and handling you can just get the samsung ssg2100's from bb or wherever in store no shipping.


----------



## morganplus4

Quatre,


Thanks for relating your story here, I have problems as you pointed out, 2/3's of a setup to get 3D DVD action just doesn't get the job done does it?


I can tell you, I recently bought my new SSG-1000's from the UK, I just bought two pair because I didn't want to spend more money on something that might need changed out AGAIN! They were $ 80 a piece Canadian and that included rush Air Shipping so you aren't paying much for them at all. Another guy bought them rush to the US for less shipping so you would be looking at $ 70/US/each if you wanted more of the SSG-1000 glasses.


Just now, I checked with the Seller and he sold out quickly and he had 100's of pairs of them at the time. I might buy the Pani 300 or the 350 if I can find one at a good price. If you know where I can get one at the best price please let me know. I might bite the bullet and by the fix for Samsung as well just to get going as Rogers Cable has a preview channel in side by side 3D and they are showing sports shows with it on occasion.


Looks like we have to spend a bundle here to get going, still, like you, I'm not ready to buy another TV.


Thanks again for your great posts!


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18907880
> 
> 
> Would be nice if DirecTV would provide the extra HDMI out in future receivers for the same reason.



I'd be happy if they'd just let you enable 3d mode even if it doesn't _think_ you have a 3d display (such as when you have a receiver in between the DVR and the display).


Friggin' idiots.


----------



## Hermanos87




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Quatre* /forum/post/18908017
> 
> 
> w00t! on second try got the site working and exactly what I was looking for with the emitter sold sep! now if my calculations are correct. I can just get that and then either the glasses from them or the samsung ssg2100's from anywhere separately, and then the converter with the workaround built in to work with samsung dlp.
> 
> 
> instead of getting the glasses from mitsu separately for $165 plus tax shipping and handling you can just get the samsung ssg2100's from bb or wherever in store no shipping.



Just know that the emitter won't ship till mid August according to Mitsubishi, I tried to order one and the ship date was 8/17


----------



## nc88keyz

Item Number Substitute For Description Quantity Expected Ship Date

789P011010 IR-EMITTER 1 8/17/2010


price you pay to save cash!!!!


Now perhaps mits will underpromise and over delivery.


It could be the Emitter data hasnt been updated and a couple crates are on the boat.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18908434
> 
> 
> I'd be happy if they'd just let you enable 3d mode even if it doesn't _think_ you have a 3d display (such as when you have a receiver in between the DVR and the display).
> 
> 
> Friggin' idiots.



Darin, your wish may have been answered. I can view n3d today on a non-3D television. Could just be a glitch, but I can see the SBS signal just like I see on DIRECTV2PC.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18908493
> 
> 
> Darin, your wish may have been answered. I can view n3d today on a non-3D television. Could just be a glitch, but I can see the SBS signal just like I see on DIRECTV2PC.



That is the only channel so far that I can see. I heard a lot of grumblings from those with new Mits sets with SBS capabilities because apparently the DTV receivers were not recognizing those Mits sets as being SBS capable. Not sure if what I am seeing today is an attempt to appease those customers or just abnormal behavior by my receiver.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18908493
> 
> 
> Darin, your wish may have been answered. I can view n3d today on a non-3D television. Could just be a glitch, but I can see the SBS signal just like I see on DIRECTV2PC.



Interesting. I wonder if that has anything to do with this post . Though he said that last night. I tried tuning in a 3d show last night and it wouldn't let me. I'm assuming this just worked for you today? I'll have to try tonight. I HOPE they came to their senses.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18908527
> 
> 
> Interesting. I wonder if that has anything to do with this post . Though he said that last night. I tried tuning in a 3d show last night and it wouldn't let me. I'm assuming this just worked for you today? I'll have to try tonight. I HOPE they came to their senses.



I don't think I tried viewing a 3D channel last night, so I'm not sure when someone flipped the switch.


----------



## njfoses




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *illthreat* /forum/post/18907131
> 
> 
> Correct.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I set the output of the Yamaha to 720 and the display still said 1080. So it must upscale.
> 
> 
> I turned the power off the adapter and blank screen; no pass through.
> 
> 
> Let me know if you want me to try anything else for you.



Thanks, that is not what i was hoping for. I assumed the adapter when not viewing 3d material would pass through whatever resolution it was receiving. One last thing if you would. If you remove the adapter from the chain and set the yamaha to 720p what resolution does your display say? Thanks.


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nc88keyz* /forum/post/18908453
> 
> 
> Item Number Substitute For Description Quantity Expected Ship Date
> 
> 789P011010 IR-EMITTER 1 8/17/2010
> 
> 
> price you pay to save cash!!!!
> 
> 
> Now perhaps mits will underpromise and over delivery.
> 
> 
> It could be the Emitter data hasnt been updated and a couple crates are on the boat.



Thats not to bad, should be about the time the next run of kits will be out.


----------



## walford

Is it correct that the adapter will accept HDMI 1.4a formated 3D content and convert it to 1080p checkerboard format and if it it receiving standard HDMI 2D content it will not convert it but will trasmit it out untouched and If the adapter it is not turned on it can not process any input content nor ouput any content?


----------



## njfoses




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/18908679
> 
> 
> Is it correct that the adapter will accept HDMI 1.4a formated 3D content and convert it to 1080p checkerboard format and if it it receiving standard HDMI 2D content it will not convert it but will trasmit it out untouched and If the adapter it is not turned on it can not process any input content nor ouput any content?



This is what i have illthreat testing. So far it seems if the adapter is powered off than no signal passes through at all. If the adapter is on everything passed through it 3d or not is upscaled to 1080p.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18908541
> 
> 
> I don't think I tried viewing a 3D channel last night, so I'm not sure when someone flipped the switch.



Also, this signal is apparently 1080i. I have 1080p active on the HR21 and have native resolution turned on, and the mits reports 1080i.


Is DirecTV only capable of 1080i SBS on satellite broadcasts? I don't have access to the 3D VOD channel yet so I can't test to see if it works yet and whether it is 1080p.


Also, previously recorded n3D shows still will not play. I cannot set anything current to record because my HR 21 will not let me record in-progress 3D content, only future content. However, setting the n3D future recording is no longer requires the selection of record it anyway twice, but the other channels still do.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njfoses* /forum/post/18908710
> 
> 
> This is what i have illthreat testing. So far it seems if the adapter is powered off than no signal passes through at all. If the adapter is on everything passed through it 3d or not is upscaled to 1080p.



Yet another reason why I hope future DTV receivers have two HDMI ports like the Panny 300/350, one to use for 2D and the other for 3D. The Mits brochure is borderline wrong, it does say 2D passthrough of the various resolutions with nothing about upscaling the output.


Wonder if the output is always set to 1080p/60? For those with a 24fps 2D source connected, that might mean no more 24fps to the TV when using the adapter.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18908906
> 
> 
> Is DirecTV only capable of 1080i SBS on satellite broadcasts? I don't have access to the 3D VOD channel yet so I can't test to see if it works yet and whether it is 1080p.



I don't think it's so much about what they are capable of, it's just what it is. They can do 1080p (at a 24fps), but to the best of my knowledge, the only 24p content they have is on PPV/VOD. There shouldn't be any technical reason why they couldn't do SBS on 24p, but 24p is really only applicable to movie content. Most video content is either 1080i or 720p.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18908966
> 
> 
> I don't think it's so much about what they are capable of, it's just what it is. They can do 1080p (at a 24fps), but to the best of my knowledge, the only 24p content they have is on PPV/VOD. There shouldn't be any technical reason why they couldn't do SBS on 24p, but 24p is really only applicable to movie content. Most video content is either 1080i or 720p.



It is now 1080p. Same content being repeated as before when it was 1080i, so DTV may be playing around with the channel settings.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18908493
> 
> 
> Darin, your wish may have been answered. I can view n3d today on a non-3D television. Could just be a glitch, but I can see the SBS signal just like I see on DIRECTV2PC.



Ok, I came home for lunch (new puppies who haven't yet developed 10hr bladders), and I too can view n3D. I couldn't last night. However I still get the "TV not 3d capable" when trying cine3d or espn3d.


----------



## bhalbower




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *saxophone4* /forum/post/18907764
> 
> 
> I was able to snag the 3DC-1000 from Vann's. Just got lucky the other day and saw they were in stock.
> 
> 
> I should get it today and I'll let everyone know how it works with Comcast 3D.
> 
> 
> I'll be running a Comcast Moto HD box, Xbox 360, Wii, PS3, and HomeDockHD through an Onky TX-SR605 to a Mits 73737.
> 
> 
> Also coming is a Samsung starter kit coming with the two pairs of glasses and Monsters Vs. Aliens, Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs 3D Blu-Ray, and IMAX Grand Canyon 3D Blu-Ray (from Germany).
> 
> 
> Now the big question I need help with is, if all this works post 1.3 reciever, do I need to buy the Panasonic DMP-BDT350 or 300, or will another 3D player work fine? I know I can wait for the September PS3 update...but patience is a virtue I lack. Not sure if I need the separate HDMI audio outputs of the Panny for my 1.3 receiver or if a Samsung or Sony will work fine??? I must have 7.1 sound. Is the firmware easy to load on the Sony? I noticed that some of the Samsung versions appear to have the option to make 2D movies 3D. Not sure if anyone has tried it, but I'd appreciate any input. Is the picture quality pretty standard from model to model, or is a certain model better?
> 
> 
> Sorry for all the questions, I'll return the favor with input on what I find tomorrow.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Jeff



If cost is not an issue, get the Panasonic Blu Ray player. If you want to save some cash, get the Sony s470 for less than $170.00. It doesn’t do checkerboard, but you should be fine with the adapter. Not sure about your receiver issues though, because only the Panasonic has dual HDMI. My kit arrives on Monday so I will post my findings with the Sony Blu Ray player.


----------



## cesar2010

I dont have the adapter yet(comes in tomm) n i can see n3d SbS now, but the tv is showing 1080p for it.


----------



## Zapix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/18904938
> 
> 
> I have also thought of switching HDMI cables manually until a HDMI 4.1 switch/splitter becomes available. Is there any reason you would not watch HD/SD from the DVR through the Game setup with 3D turned off?



Mostly for ease of having to change the menu settings. It's only a matter of seconds saved probably, but switching an HDMI cable in and out seems like it would be faster than going into the menu to disable FX gaming, enable smooth 120hz again, and back as needed. Considering I have quick access to switch the cables, it just seems easier for whatever reason.


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18907880
> 
> 
> I have the Panny 300 and it is the perfect solution IMO. Since it outputs checkerboard, you don't need an adapter and can pass the audio and 3D video via the same HDMI output through your 1.3 receiver if you wish (which I do) or send 3D video directly to the TV via the main HDMI and audio to the receiver via the secondary HDMI (the latter being the solution for those with 1.4 TVs)......



Thanks for the info!

To be clear, with a Panny 300 and my Mits 65833 HDTV, I would be able to connect directly from the Panny

to the TV HDMI input, without needing any other Mits equipment for 3D (starter kit, emitter, etc.)?


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/18909990
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info!
> 
> To be clear, with a Panny 300 and my Mits 65833 HDTV, I would be able to connect directly from the Panny
> 
> to the TV HDMI input, without needing any other Mits equipment for 3D (starter kit, emitter, etc.)?



You can connect the 300 through a 1.3 receiver or directly to the TV, your choice. If you connect to the TV and want 7.1 audio, you'll need to use the secondary HDMI for audio to the receiver most likely.


You do not need any other Mits equipment so long as you have shutter glasses that work (dlp link or also have an emitter compatible with the glasses).


----------



## NSX1992

Mystery solved. Xpand 102s do work together with Mitsubishi glasses and adaptor. They do not require reverse mode. Last night the 102s did not work at the dealers new 75" LaserVue because this set only has an option to turn DLP Link on and off and it was off.This morning we found the problem and I was ready to cancel my order for the adaptor only and buy the only ramaining starter kit. As luck would have it they sold the last one this morning and it was on a truck to be installed. I wanted it before I went to Latvia(Europe) for 4 weeks next Monday. I watched the Walt Disney 25 minute demo with my Xpand 102s without problems. There are no rainbows but parts of the demo were poor (layered flat cutouts for the cartoons). The salesman knocked $20 off my new starter kit order and I am sure it will be waiting for me when I get back in 4 weeks.


----------



## illthreat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njfoses* /forum/post/18908562
> 
> 
> If you remove the adapter from the chain and set the yamaha to 720p what resolution does your display say? Thanks.



It's going to say 720. Sorry I cannot be of more help. Enjoying 3D.










I certainly agree that it's disappointing that there is no pass through. The adapter will always be "on".


----------



## illthreat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Quatre* /forum/post/18908005
> 
> 
> why wont the ps3 work without adapter? that is crap because the Avatar game for 360 (and I head same for ps3) worked fine on dlp tvs with no 3d update and no adapters nothing. I guess though its because the game itself had an option for checkerboard/dlp and I guess the 3d demo games that ps3 has now dont have any such option.



You are correct. Avatar the Game is native checkerboard and doesn't need an adapter to make it so.


Best-


----------



## pajer

one last chance to forum members, i do have an extra 3da-1 adapter available new in box. if anyone is interested private message me. otherwise they are going on fleabay tomorrow. pajer


----------



## bornagain1

UPS just dropped off my Mits 3DC-1000 starter pack from RC Willey!!! They also refunded $14 because I paid for second day air and the package was late. I'll post after unpacking and hooking up!!!


----------



## illthreat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bornagain1* /forum/post/18911301
> 
> 
> UPS just dropped off my Mits 3DC-1000 starter pack from RC Willey!!! They also refunded $14 because I paid for second day air and the package was late. I'll post after unpacking and hooking up!!!




Enjoy!


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *illthreat* /forum/post/18911398
> 
> 
> Enjoy!



I think there's gonna be a lot of that this weekend!


----------



## illthreat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/18911415
> 
> 
> I think there's gonna be a lot of that this weekend!



Heck yeah there will be. Have you tried Wipeout HD yet? If not, don't overlook the 3D Strength setting in the game options... holy smokes it comes on heavy..


----------



## dreaux

I have Directv and they are showing 3D with a split screen side by side.

Will the 3DC-1000 work with that?


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dreaux* /forum/post/18911912
> 
> 
> I have Directv and they are showing 3D with a split screen side by side.
> 
> Will the 3DC-1000 work with that?



It will work with side-by-side and top/bottom.


----------



## advocate2

Just use the adapter remote to scroll through the 3D options and everything comes together like a charm.


----------



## id10tech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bornagain1* /forum/post/18911301
> 
> 
> UPS just dropped off my Mits 3DC-1000 starter pack from RC Willey!!! They also refunded $14 because I paid for second day air and the package was late. I'll post after unpacking and hooking up!!!



dang...I took their online ad that says "in-store purchase only" to serious.


Can't wait to pick up my kit!!


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18908524
> 
> 
> That is the only channel so far that I can see. I heard a lot of grumblings from those with new Mits sets with SBS capabilities because apparently the DTV receivers were not recognizing those Mits sets as being SBS capable. Not sure if what I am seeing today is an attempt to appease those customers or just abnormal behavior by my receiver.



OK, now all 3 of the DTV 3D channels are coming through to in SBS format. I guess DTV has decided the EDID route is not going over well. Hopefully this is permanent.


CORRECTION: Make that all 4 DTV 3D channels. The VOD channel is now active for me for the first time.


UPDATE: VOD channel is gone again.


----------



## cesar2010

hmnn not for me, only n3d displaying espn3d n cine3d not yet (maybe cuz i have a C9 model n not the newer models that support SbS) but doesnt matter kit coming later today!!! damn fedex i hate u


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cesar2010* /forum/post/18912933
> 
> 
> hmnn not for me, only n3d displaying espn3d n cine3d not yet (maybe cuz i have a C9 model n not the newer models that support SbS) but doesnt matter kit coming later today!!! damn fedex i hate u



This change by DirecTV is still relevant once the adapter is in use because it was a possiblity that if you use a 1.3 receiver between the DTV box and the adapter, the DTV box might not recognize it. With this change, it now will not matter. I'm currently sending SBS from the DTV through a 1.3 receiver to the TV without the adapter to test it and it works fine. I also have a C9. For the newer SBS capable TVs, they don't need the adapter at all for DTV 3D now that DTV has made this change.


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18913034
> 
> 
> This change by DirecTV is still relevant once the adapter is in use because it was a possiblity that if you use a 1.3 receiver between the DTV box and the adapter, the DTV box might not recognize it. With this change, it now will not matter. I'm currently sending SBS from the DTV through a 1.3 receiver to the TV without the adapter to test it and it works fine. I also have a C9. For the newer SBS capable TVs, they don't need the adapter at all for DTV 3D now that DTV has made this change.



I'm confused. You dont need a side by side to checkerboard converter to view directvs side by side formated 3d on your dlp? how is that possible?


so pissed fios doesn't have 3d. have had comcast and directv and didn't like but am ready to switch back to one of them for 3d. who has more 3d chans? comcast or directv?


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *morganplus4* /forum/post/18908357
> 
> 
> Quatre,
> 
> 
> Thanks for relating your story here, I have problems as you pointed out, 2/3's of a setup to get 3D DVD action just doesn't get the job done does it?
> 
> 
> I can tell you, I recently bought my new SSG-1000's from the UK, I just bought two pair because I didn't want to spend more money on something that might need changed out AGAIN! They were $ 80 a piece Canadian and that included rush Air Shipping so you aren't paying much for them at all. Another guy bought them rush to the US for less shipping so you would be looking at $ 70/US/each if you wanted more of the SSG-1000 glasses.
> 
> 
> Just now, I checked with the Seller and he sold out quickly and he had 100's of pairs of them at the time. I might buy the Pani 300 or the 350 if I can find one at a good price. If you know where I can get one at the best price please let me know. I might bite the bullet and by the fix for Samsung as well just to get going as Rogers Cable has a preview channel in side by side 3D and they are showing sports shows with it on occasion.
> 
> 
> Looks like we have to spend a bundle here to get going, still, like you, I'm not ready to buy another TV.
> 
> 
> Thanks again for your great posts!



what seller had 100's of the SSG1000? i haven't been able to find those in a long time. I guess I will be able to sell the pair I have for a good price then since they are so hard to find. but meantime i'd consider buying a 2nd pair if you told me which seller had them?


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hermanos87* /forum/post/18908436
> 
> 
> Just know that the emitter won't ship till mid August according to Mitsubishi, I tried to order one and the ship date was 8/17



yeah my email order confirmation said that date also but mine shipped. They had a few in stock and all sold and now everyone else that ordered will have to wait but looks like i got it on on of the ones in stock.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18912898
> 
> 
> OK, now all 3 of the DTV 3D channels are coming through to in SBS format. I guess DTV has decided the EDID route is not going over well. Hopefully this is permanent.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cesar2010* /forum/post/18912933
> 
> 
> hmnn not for me, only n3d displaying espn3d n cine3d



Hmmm, that's puzzling that it's different for the two of you, but perhaps it just takes a while for the authorization to propogate. I'll keep my fingers crossed, and check at lunch time!



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Quatre* /forum/post/18913231
> 
> 
> I'm confused. You dont need a side by side to checkerboard converter to view directvs side by side formated 3d on your dlp? how is that possible?



The latest models (like **738, **838) can do SBS and top/bottom natively. Reportedly they'll be able to frame packed with an upcoming firmware update. Those of us with older moldels need the adapter. But for whatever reason, DirecTV's receivers didn't recognize the newer models as being 3d capable, even though they are. So people needed an EDID spoofer (or the adapter) for the receiver to enable 3d output. HOPEFULLY that's changing.


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18913474
> 
> 
> Hmmm, that's puzzling that it's different for the two of you, but perhaps it just takes a while for the authorization to propogate. I'll keep my fingers crossed, and check at lunch time!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The latest models (like **738, **838) can do SBS and top/bottom natively. Reportedly they'll be able to frame packed with an upcoming firmware update. Those of us with older moldels need the adapter. But for whatever reason, DirecTV's receivers didn't recognize the newer models as being 3d capable, even though they are. So people needed an EDID spoofer (or the adapter) for the receiver to enable 3d output. HOPEFULLY that's changing.



What?! there are Mitsu dlp tvs that can do the embraced standard side by side 3d? (dont know of much top bottom) And what is frame packed?


**738 and **838 are lamp based dlps? how about the mitsu laservue dlp? i wasn't even going to consider those since i heard they were also checkerbaord and figured no point in getting a new tv with old 3d mode and having to use the adapter/converter.


----------



## nc88keyz

i have fedex arrival dates for 21st for 3DA1 from Onecall, and 19th for Emitter from Mits.


and and and.....no money for the glasses.


I also have no HR21 + directv reciever.


Living in an OTA market been partial to the HR20s, even if refurb on replacement plan.


I dread calling directv asking them for stuff. Its always a task.


Would love to have HR24+ AM21 but really dont need ota on box number 4.. will see.


I do have 1 3dbd disc to test with TMT3. should be fun, No Ps3 either, or panny with checkerboard output.


----------



## irishfyre5




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *id10tech* /forum/post/18912888
> 
> 
> dang...I took their online ad that says "in-store purchase only" to serious.
> 
> 
> Can't wait to pick up my kit!!




how did they send it to you. when i called them they asked what store i wanted it sent to and i told them that i wanted it sent to my house and they said they couldn't do that. What did you do or say for them to send it to your house. They are the only people i know that have the thing. no where else on the internet and not even ebay has one. you think someone would want to make a buck and buy one and put it on ebay. please tell me what you did if you could. thank you.....john


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Quatre* /forum/post/18913491
> 
> 
> What?! there are Mitsu dlp tvs that can do the embraced standard side by side 3d? ...



I don't know who is using top/bottom, but it's intended to be another broadcast format. Frame packed is what 3d blu-ray uses (and is full resolution). Yes, those models are lamp based. I haven't kept up with the latest laservue models, but if they have any that were introduced in the past year, I would expect the same from them. You'd have to check. They are all checkerboard, in that that is the native format that they display in (which means their displayed 3d resolution is less than blu-ray 3d), but the newer models can convert to checkerboard internally. At _least_ for SBS and top/bottom.


----------



## dreaux




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Quatre* /forum/post/18913491
> 
> 
> What?! there are Mitsu dlp tvs that can do the embraced standard side by side 3d? (dont know of much top bottom) And what is frame packed.
> 
> 
> **738 and **838 are lamp based dlps? how about the mitsu laservue dlp? i wasn't even going to consider those since i heard they were also checkerbaord and figured no point in getting a new tv with old 3d mode and having to use the adapter/converter.



The new LaserVue L75-A91 is out now. Laser (not DLP) 75 inches and 3D ready. Supposed to be stunning PQ. Can't wait to look at one.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...108686&page=26 
http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/product/L75A91


----------



## walford

DirectTV did not recognize the 738 and 838 models as capable of doing SbS fromat since EDID coming from 738 and 838 does not support all of the HDMI 1.4a mandatory EDID fromats and therfore not in the proper format per HDMI 1.4 specs,

The the software update is released for the 738 and 838 then the units will support all mandatory 1.4a formats and the EDID data will also meet the 1.4 specs.

The new lazer vue models will not get this update..


If DirecTV has in fact stopped fully checking EDIDs and using a list of legal TV model numbers as mentioned above this is welcome change.

The full list of compatible TVs at the DirecTV 3d site still list Mits DLP 3D TVs as requireing the adapter see:

http://www.directv.com/DTVAPP/conten...,6123060669#lb


----------



## advocate2

I just tried again to run the D* HR23 through the Yamaha HTR-6250 then to the adapter and finally to the Mits 73735.



It actually played for a minute or two, then I got a black screen and the infamous "This program can not play because your tv in not 3D" message.


I might see if there is a way to turn off the upscale feature of the Yamaha. Given prior posts by others that could be the problem.


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dreaux* /forum/post/18913736
> 
> 
> The new LaserVue L75-A91 is out now. Laser (not DLP) 75 inches and 3D ready. Supposed to be stunning PQ. Can't wait to look at one.
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...108686&page=26
> http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/product/L75A91



I was wanting and waiting for larger then 65" laservue for awhile but now I wouldn't get it because its still dlp more or less. I had heard that it would still be checkerboard and require the converter (though now here heard there are even lamp based mits dlps that support sbs?). But even if it does sbs, i think its not full hd 1080p to each eye 3d the way the new plasma and lcds are. I have my 67" sam 3d ready led dlp so I think i'm done with dlp after that.


the 65" wasn't worth it, and the 75" would be just for the size since the largest 3d tv before that is 65" but in the ends its not flat and not as good full hd 3d etc. and its still basically dlp.


i dunno i might change my mind just for wanting the size but i think i'd rather get the UN65C8000 samsung 65" 3d led lcd and use my 67" in the other room. 75" might almost be getting too big.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *advocate2* /forum/post/18913950
> 
> 
> I just tried again to run the D* HR23 through the Yamaha HTR-6250 then to the adapter and finally to the Mits 73735.
> 
> 
> 
> It actually played for a minute or two, then I got a black screen and the infamous "This program can not play because your tv in not 3D" message.
> 
> 
> I might see if there is a way to turn off the upscale feature of the Yamaha. Given prior posts by others that could be the problem.



That's odd considering I can get the signal from DTV, even through my 1.3 receiver, without even using the adapter on a C9 TV.


----------



## advocate2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18914046
> 
> 
> That's odd considering I can get the signal from DTV, even through my 1.3 receiver, without even using the adapter on a C9 TV.



Which D* receiver and AVR are you using?


In checking my Yamaha manual the upscale is only applied to composite signals, not HDMI.


Out of curiosity, what setup settings do you have in your D* receiver?


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *advocate2* /forum/post/18914088
> 
> 
> Which D* receiver and AVR are you using?
> 
> 
> In checking my Yamaha manual the upscale is only applied to composite signals, not HDMI.
> 
> 
> Out of curiosity, what setup settings do you have in your D* receiver?



HR21-700, Sony 800 series, native resolution output on D* and comes through in 1080p on the C9 and comes through in 1080i on an older LCD. For the LCD, it even passes through 2 1.3 switches from the D* box to the LCD and still works.


----------



## scarabaeus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18913474
> 
> 
> The latest models (like **738, **838) can do SBS and top/bottom natively. Reportedly they'll be able to frame packed with an upcoming firmware update. Those of us with older moldels need the adapter. But for whatever reason, DirecTV's receivers didn't recognize the newer models as being 3d capable, even though they are. So people needed an EDID spoofer (or the adapter) for the receiver to enable 3d output. HOPEFULLY that's changing.



The latest DLP models could do SbS, but they would not do the HDMI 1.4(a) 3D handshake (VSDBs in the EDID, VSIs to enable 3D mode), that's why the DirecTV box could not recognise the 3D capability.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18913474
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18912898
> 
> 
> OK, now all 3 of the DTV 3D channels are coming through to in SBS format. I guess DTV has decided the EDID route is not going over well. Hopefully this is permanent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cesar2010* /forum/post/18912933
> 
> 
> hmnn not for me, only n3d displaying espn3d n cine3d not yet
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Hmmm, that's puzzling that it's different for the two of you, but perhaps it just takes a while for the authorization to propogate. I'll keep my fingers crossed, and check at lunch time!
Click to expand...


Sadly, I'm in cesar's boat. Still just n3D for me.


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

has anyone played the invincible tiger in ps3?is the game and 3d effects worth buying the game?how about avatar?


----------



## rad

Just got it today and just started playing with it. One thing I've noticed is that when using the 30 sec skip on my DirecTV HD DVR the box and Mit 73735 lose sync for a little while, kind of a PITA.


----------



## bcterp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/18914526
> 
> 
> has anyone played the invincible tiger in ps3?is the game and 3d effects worth buying the game?how about avatar?



Only tried the demo but Invincible Tiger is a pretty boring game, low resolution, and the 3D effect is certainly noticeable but not worth buying imho.


I picked up a used copy of Avatar from a blockbuster for $20. This game has nice 3D, both depth and popout. Since you control the camera in the game it gives you a good sense of what 3D can do on your set. The game itself is decent but nothing special. I probably wouldn't buy it if I wasn't interested in 3D. However if you are interested in adding some 3D content to your library this game is worth picking up.


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

rnx for the info i guess at least ill play avatar till the starter kit arrives....


----------



## cesar2010

im certainly not patient n the wait for this kit is killing me... btw how u access the 3d VOD on DTV?


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18914473
> 
> 
> Sadly, I'm in cesar's boat. Still just n3D for me.



Try 'refreshing' your D* TV service at the following link. This service is for updating your boxes to show all channels you are subscribed to.

https://www.directv.com/resend 


You will have to log into your account online for it to work of course.


Hope this helps.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18914473
> 
> 
> Sadly, I'm in cesar's boat. Still just n3D for me.



Darin, I'm in your region. Hell, I'm in the same metro. So, must not be geographical.


----------



## njfoses




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rad* /forum/post/18914624
> 
> 
> Just got it today and just started playing with it. One thing I've noticed is that when using the 30 sec skip on my DirecTV HD DVR the box and Mit 73735 lose sync for a little while, kind of a PITA.



Do you have the emitter hooked directly into the tv?


----------



## walford

When the software update to the 738 and 838 models is released they will support the new 3D 1080p per eye packed buffer format from the new 3D blu-ray players and then they will be able to have full resolution 1080p support support to each eye.


----------



## bhalbower




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/18915037
> 
> 
> When the software update to the 738 and 838 models is released they will support the new 3D 1080p per eye packed buffer format from the new 3D blu-ray players and then they will be able to have full resolution 1080p support support to each eye.



Correct me if I am wrong, but it is my understanding that the firmware upgrade for the 738 and 838 models will just do an internal conversion to Checkerboard so it won’t be full 1080p resolution to each eye. It should be the same quality as the 3D-Ready models with the adapter (wobulation technique of the DLP chip).


----------



## JamesN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhalbower* /forum/post/18915215
> 
> 
> Correct me if I am wrong, but it is my understanding that the firmware upgrade for the 738 and 838 models will just do an internal conversion to Checkerboard so it won't be full 1080p resolution to each eye. It should be the same quality as the 3D-Ready models with the adapter (wobulation technique of the DLP chip).



That is my understanding as well.


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

i just bought the wd 60 inch 73d ,its dlp but has 10 times better picture then the ledtvs..i own lg led tv ,the mitsubishis picture its owsome now im waiting for the 3d starter pack to see how its gonna look in 3d ,i know about the update we gonna have but does anybody have a info when its gonna be ?


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

correction *** i ment 738 series


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

anybody who have extra pair of xpand x102 would like to donate to me till i get my starter kit then ill return them back.....


----------



## pajer

fyi, i have available 1 each of the following which are all new in box. 3dc-1000 starter kit, a 3da-1 adapter kit, and one mitsubishi ir emitter model # ssg-2100me/za . if you are interested in any of these items pm me and make your best offer and these will be shipped out priority mail tomorrow. thanks, pajer


----------



## Milmanias




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhalbower* /forum/post/18915215
> 
> 
> Correct me if I am wrong, but it is my understanding that the firmware upgrade for the 738 and 838 models will just do an internal conversion to Checkerboard so it won't be full 1080p resolution to each eye. It should be the same quality as the 3D-Ready models with the adapter (wobulation technique of the DLP chip).




Correct; the dlp chip on this year models is 960x1080 so it won't be 1080p per eye. Were Texas Instruments to provide a 1920x1080 chip for next year's models then those could be 1080p per eye.


----------



## id10tech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pajer* /forum/post/18915359
> 
> 
> fyi, i have available 1 each of the following which are all new in box. 3dc-1000 starter kit, a 3da-1 adapter kit, and one mitsubishi ir emitter model # ssg-2100me/za . if you are interested in any of these items pm me and make your best offer and these will be shipped out priority mail tomorrow. thanks, pajer



Obviously you are looking for retail + ?


I'm interested in the starter kit.


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milmanias* /forum/post/18915414
> 
> 
> Correct; the dlp chip on this year models is 960x1080 so it won't be 1080p per eye. Were Texas Instruments to provide a 1920x1080 chip for next year's models then those could be 1080p per eye.



I thought that checkerboard processing interpolates to 1920X1080 for both eyes, and that's why it looks better than SBS.


----------



## Lumpy

Invincible Tiger is pretty low res but it works pretty good. I wouldn't pay for it now though. It's basically a side scrolling game like Mortal Combat. In 3D it kind of looks like a marionette puppet theater.


If you have any doubts about how Mitsubishi DLP's are in 3D. If you like the way straight 1080P looks on it you'll love the way 3D looks.


I use mine with X102's and a Panny DMP-BDT350. Still waiting for my 3DA-1.


----------



## walford




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milmanias* /forum/post/18915414
> 
> 
> Correct; the dlp chip on this year models is 960x1080 so it won't be 1080p per eye. Were Texas Instruments to provide a 1920x1080 chip for next year's models then those could be 1080p per eye.



Yes the actual actual chip is a 960x1080 chip but since woblulation is used it can display 1080p per eye since it refreshs at 120Hz.

Wobulation has been used in DLP TVs for at least 6 years to double with resolution of the DLP chips with no reported degradation of the doubled resolution.


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

i love how the 1080p looks in my 60738 its awesome the colors are like never seen bef,avatar the movie (2d) in bluray its just breathtaking,my friends saw it and they were like wow feels better than in imax movie theater...just cant wait to see how its all this in 3d ..grrr i spend so much money dont want to buy xpand glasses becouse i already preorder the 3dc-1000 starter kit but still i have no pation till it arrives i need to see the 3d on my tv again maybe ill buy xpand x102 ....


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

so u sayng with the adapter or with update the 738 models gonna see the tru3d hd ?


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

i mean 1080 p per eye?


----------



## abouels0827

I own a 60 inch model dlp from mitsubishi. I bought this tv on black Friday (2009) with 5 year additional warrant thru hhgregg for 950 after tax. Starter kit 410. I'm only in 1360 and ready for 3d. Best part about it isn't I didn't even realize it was 3d capable untill I recently discovered about the kit. Couldn't be happier at such a low cost. I came from a samsung dlp 50 inch, had it for four years changed bulb once under arranty and still sold it for 600 when I bought the mits.


----------



## cesar2010

got the kit will post videos n reviews tonite after work.. n the set up n such...so far so good..


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmalter0* /forum/post/18915470
> 
> 
> I thought that checkerboard processing interpolates to 1920X1080 for both eyes, and that's why it looks better than SBS.



No, the chip is 960x1080, but is wobulated to produce a 1920x1080 image 60 times a second in 2d mode, derived from two 960x1080 images at 120hz offset from one another. In 3d mode, the tv is essentially doing the exact same thing, but the shutter glasses only let each eye see every other 960x1080 image. If by "better than SBS", you mean a frame packed 3d blu-ray image looking better than SBS, yes. SBS is half the horizontal resolution for each eye. So while SBS is 960x1080 per eye, it's not "missing" the same pixels as checkerboard is. It's missing columns of pixels, while checkerboard is missing every other pixel, but the next row that is offset so that "missing" pixels are in a checkerboard format. Therefore, on a 3d DLP, a full rez (frame packed) 3d image will still look better than side by side, because each eye is only missing "half" the pixels. In SBS, you are essentially missing more pixels, because the missing pixels don't line up in the two formats. The missing pixels in SBS have to be interpolated, then out of that interpolation, new holes are put in.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/18915612
> 
> 
> Yes the actual actual chip is a 960x1080 chip but since woblulation is used it can display 1080p per eye since it refreshes at 120Hz.
> 
> Wobulation has been used in DLP TVs for at least 6 years to double with resolution of the DLP chips with no reported degradation of the doubled resolution.



No, it's not "1080p" (as in a full 1920x1080) per eye. We've had many conversations on this in the past.







DLPs do not do 1920x1080x120hz. They do 960x1080x120hz. The wobulation allows them to do a full 1920x1080 frame at 60hz.


----------



## NSX1992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/18914526
> 
> 
> has anyone played the invincible tiger in ps3?is the game and 3d effects worth buying the game?how about avatar?



I played Avatar for 80 hours last December on my 82" and thought it was great.


----------



## nyc3dwd60738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cesar2010* /forum/post/18915749
> 
> 
> got the kit will post videos n reviews tonite after work.. n the set up n such...so far so good..



lucky u im gonna get mine probably next month







trying to get at least a pair of x102 for cheap price till my kit comes


----------



## nyc3dwd60738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NSX1992* /forum/post/18915801
> 
> 
> I played Avatar for 80 hours last December on my 82" and thought it was great.



good 3d effects like popouts and depth?


----------



## id10tech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/18915803
> 
> 
> lucky u im gonna get mine probably next month
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> trying to get at least a pair of x102 for cheap price till my kit comes



I have a pair of 102's I'll let go for $100. Barely used. Bought them to check out Avatar and Invincible Tiger on the PS3.


So far everything sounds good about the kit.







Wish the release was more solid. End of this month is all I've seen from one site.


----------



## pjb16

So ps3 is working fine with the kit, though I'm having a bit of trouble with D*. I can get 3D on the n3D channel (both through my AVR and straight through the adapter), but I have to manually go to the sbs 3D mode on the adapter for it to work. The ESPN3D channel tells me I don't have a 3D capable tv whether I am hooked directly to the adapter or through my Onkyo 876 (can't watch the world cup game I recorded weeks ago either for the same reason). Anybody else having a problem with D* channels?


----------



## Hermanos87

Anyone looking to sell an emitter, I'd go as much as $80 for one


----------



## nyc3dwd60738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *id10tech* /forum/post/18916220
> 
> 
> I have a pair of 102's I'll let go for $100. Barely used. Bought them to check out Avatar and Invincible Tiger on the PS3.
> 
> 
> So far everything sounds good about the kit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wish the release was more solid. End of this month is all I've seen from one site.



how avatar and the invicible tiger looked in 3d?


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

anyone wants to sell me xpandx102 for 50$


----------



## pjb16




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/18916376
> 
> 
> how avatar and the invicible tiger looked in 3d?



Avatar looks amazing. Invincible Tiger looks ok. I mean it is not that great to begin with, so the 3D doesn't help the graphics much.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Athlon646464* /forum/post/18914762
> 
> 
> Try 'refreshing' your D* TV service at the following link. This service is for updating your boxes to show all channels you are subscribed to.
> 
> https://www.directv.com/resend



Thanks, but no go. I also reset my receiver after doing that. I still get n3D, but not the others.


----------



## rad

Are you talking about Avatar the movie in 3D being available on the PS3 or a game?


----------



## nyc3dwd60738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rad* /forum/post/18916418
> 
> 
> Are you talking about Avatar the movie in 3D being available on the PS3 or a game?



we talking about the game is it like the 3d efects amazing or not worth buying the game


----------



## audiopho

Finally, I received the starter kit from Onecall this afternoon, via FedEx 2 days.

Everything works as advertised.

The only 3D ch I am able to watch is 103 on my DirecTV box.

The other are PPV and ESPN3D which is "To Be Announced".

I assume I need a 3d BD player in order to play the promo BD disc that came with the kit.

Overall, I'm pretty happy with the PQ.

Can't wait to see football on 3d.


----------



## pjb16




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18916416
> 
> 
> Thanks, but no go. I also reset my receiver after doing that. I still get n3D, but not the others.



I'm in the same boat as you it seems.


----------



## njfoses




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pjb16* /forum/post/18916350
> 
> 
> So ps3 is working fine with the kit, though I'm having a bit of trouble with D*. I can get 3D on the n3D channel (both through my AVR and straight through the adapter), but I have to manually go to the sbs 3D mode on the adapter for it to work. The ESPN3D channel tells me I don't have a 3D capable tv whether I am hooked directly to the adapter or through my Onkyo 876 (can't watch the world cup game I recorded weeks ago either for the same reason). Anybody else having a problem with D* channels?



Received my kit today and got everything hooked up. I have the same issue with with n3d, i have to manually select sbs in order for it to display correctly. I can view espn3d but it is just sbs pic of directv logo and i cannot change the format on the adapter when on this channel for some reason. Im running through a denon 3311 avr which is hdmi 1.4 Also on the contrary to other information posted in this thread the adapter will pass through various resolutions and not upscale everything to 1080p. I hope harmony adds this device to their library because i would hate to have to keep this remote lying around. I will post more later after some viewing time.


----------



## njfoses




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiopho* /forum/post/18916435
> 
> 
> Finally, I received the starter kit from Onecall this afternoon, via FedEx 2 days.
> 
> Everything works as advertised.
> 
> The only 3D ch I am able to watch is 103 on my DirecTV box.
> 
> The other are PPV and ESPN3D which is "To Be Announced".
> 
> I assume I need a 3d BD player in order to play the promo BD disc that came with the kit.
> 
> Overall, I'm pretty happy with the PQ.
> 
> Can't wait to see football on 3d.



Do you have to manually select sbs mode on the adapter when on channel 103?


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pjb16* /forum/post/18916438
> 
> 
> I'm in the same boat as you it seems.



Well actually, you're worse off! Those of us who have been discussing this are talking about the fact that DirecTV has chosen to require a 3d device be directly attached to the DVR to enable 3d output. jjknatl discovered that n3D stopped requiring that yesterday. Now he can get the others, but the rest of us can't. But we don't yet have our adapter. You have the adaper, and STILL can't get it to work!


----------



## walford

Do any of you that have trouble getting the ESPN-3D channel on Direct TV also have any trouble getting ESPN-HD or ESPN-HD2 which you subscribe to on DirecTV.


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

looks like nobodys on forums evrybody who got theyre starter kits are enjoying them and left us in darknesss and with no answers







((


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/18916770
> 
> 
> Do any of you that have trouble getting the ESPN-3D channel on Direct TV also have any trouble getting ESPN-HD or ESPN-HD2 which you subscribe to on DirecTV.



Just to be clear, I _shouldn't_ be getting that channel unless DirecTV is changing the rules (which is what we're trying to determine) because I don't yet have a 3d device hooked up to it. But to answer your question, no, I don't have a problem with the other HD ESPN channels. But I do get n3D, since yesterday. But jjknatl also started getting n3D yesterday, adn the others today, yet he doesn't have a 3d device hooked up to it either.


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cesar2010* /forum/post/18915749
> 
> 
> got the kit will post videos n reviews tonite after work.. n the set up n such...so far so good..



I can't wait!! I want mine now!!! This Is Killing Me!!!


HELP!


----------



## advocate2

Just a note to confirm that my Samsung Starter Kit arrived today to go with my Mits adapter kit. Except for the word "Samsung" on the temple, the glasses are identical to those in the Mits Starter Kit. They work well.


I bought the Samsung Starter Kit new, all seals intact, for $185 delivered on Ebay.


----------



## KenBoggs

I just found the 3 DC-1000 at HSN.com I chatted with the customer service rep at HSN to insure they are in stock.


Ken : I'm looking at an item that is not available anywhere else. I want to confirm that you really have it is stock and how quickly you can ship it. item 956-485

Budd : Ken, please allow me one moment to look into this for you.

Ken : ok

Budd : Thank you for waiting. I show that this item is available. If you order the item today then you should have it within 7-10 days.

Ken : Do you have expedited shipping available and where will it ship from

Budd : We do have 2-day shipping for $30.70 or 4-day for $15.95.

Ken : I can select those shipping option when I check out online?

Budd : That is correct.


Now are you ready for the best part!!! Get it for for $339.96 (15% off) by using coupon code C77647 at check out


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18916877
> 
> 
> Just to be clear, I _shouldn't_ be getting that channel unless DirecTV is changing the rules (which is what we're trying to determine) because I don't yet have a 3d device hooked up to it. But to answer your question, no, I don't have a problem with the other HD ESPN channels. But I do get n3D, since yesterday. But jjknatl also started getting n3D yesterday, adn the others today, yet he doesn't have a 3d device hooked up to it either.



I have zero 3D channels now.


----------



## rad

I have the DirecTV HR24-500 and after I connected everything and setup the TV for 3D mode I rebooted the HR24 and all four 3D channels show up in my guide (if you use a favorites list don't forget to add them). I've download a bunch of stuff on the VOD 3D channel and one of the IMAX PPV's.


For the person asking about ESPN3D I checked in the guide and for the next 10 days there's nothing showing up for that channel.


----------



## advocate2

rad


The ESPN broadcast of MLB is the 27 or 28th. They are not in the guide yet, but the X-games start on the 29th.


Also, my own opinion is that the broadcast quality on the VOD downloads is not as good as recording or watching the show when it is broadcast. On Ecounter in the Third Dimension, for instance, I experienced some hesitation in the VOD.


----------



## wstaffor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KenBoggs* /forum/post/18917430
> 
> 
> I just found the 3 DC-1000 at HSN.com I chatted with the customer service rep at HSN to insure they are in stock.
> 
> 
> Ken : I'm looking at an item that is not available anywhere else. I want to confirm that you really have it is stock and how quickly you can ship it. item 956-485
> 
> Budd : Ken, please allow me one moment to look into this for you.
> 
> Ken : ok
> 
> Budd : Thank you for waiting. I show that this item is available. If you order the item today then you should have it within 7-10 days.
> 
> Ken : Do you have expedited shipping available and where will it ship from
> 
> Budd : We do have 2-day shipping for $30.70 or 4-day for $15.95.
> 
> Ken : I can select those shipping option when I check out online?
> 
> Budd : That is correct.
> 
> 
> Now are you ready for the best part!!! Get it for for $339.96 (15% off) by using coupon code C77647 at check out



SICK! Sold. I'll return my adapter only coming this weekend (unless someone on here wants to buy it...)


----------



## Zapix

Heads up ppl, the kit is available at hsn.com

http://www.hsn.com/mitsubishi-3d-hom...web_id=6055733 


$399.95 + 9.95 shipping.


Status is "Almost Sold Out"


I called and ordered one. They said it will arrive within about 10 days.


----------



## Martinefski

I received my kit today and I am very happy to announce that it works perfectly fine passing everything through my Pioneer Elite 94 txh. Direct TV as well as my panasonic 3d blu Ray are playing without any ghosting what so ever, however I do see some rainbow effect, not because the glasses. When I can see it, I can see it without the glasses as well. But don't take it as that big of a deal. I can only see it with white text on a black back ground and then only when looking out of the corner of my eye.


I am very happy it works perfectly through my AVR, I was getting a little nervous I would have to buy a new receiver to do so.


Well I guess I spoke too soon, I am not sure how I did it earlier, but once I repowered up everything I could no longer get the D TV to work passing through my receiver. I will try again tomorrow, I know it worked so I know it's possible even if it has to be tricked into it.


Darn I am bumbed now, looks like I will end up buying a new AVR after all.


----------



## wstaffor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zapix* /forum/post/18917558
> 
> 
> Heads up ppl, the kit is available at hsn.com
> 
> http://www.hsn.com/mitsubishi-3d-hom...web_id=6055733
> 
> 
> $399.95 + 9.95 shipping.
> 
> 
> Status is "Almost Sold Out"
> 
> 
> I called and ordered one. They said it will arrive within about 10 days.



Hope you used the coupon code above. Gets price down to 340.


----------



## olayinka

Can anyone tell me if the 3D effects look the same on the mits dlp's as on the Sony bravias?? A sales person at best buy told me the DLP versions of 3D are not true 3D. I gotta Mits. WD-73833, ps3 and expecting the 3dc-1000 adapter. I'd rather spend the doe on an upgrade than watching a watered down version of 3D.


----------



## cesar2010

Uploading videos to youtube right now, if anyone wants anything in specific they wish to see let me know n i will record it..I will post links once videos are done uploading.



EDIT: 1.UNBOXING: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6BptO0rCQQ 


2. IN-ACTION http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xII7JqaAPRQ


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *advocate2* /forum/post/18917344
> 
> 
> Just a note to confirm that my Samsung Starter Kit arrived today to go with my Mits adapter kit. Except for the word "Samsung" on the temple, the glasses are identical to those in the Mits Starter Kit. They work well.
> 
> 
> I bought the Samsung Starter Kit new, all seals intact, for $185 delivered on Ebay.



I beat cha by $8. Mine was $177










But you win since you have the Mits pack. ;(


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cesar2010* /forum/post/18917766
> 
> 
> Uploading videos to youtube right now, if anyone wants anything in specific they wish to see let me know n i will record it..I will post links once videos are done uploading.
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: 1.UNBOXING: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6BptO0rCQQ
> 
> 
> 2. IN-ACTION (still processing) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xII7JqaAPRQ



Thanks Cesar! Looking forward to your video review!


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I beat cha by $8. Mine was $177
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But you win since you have the Mits pack. ;(



Crap where did you guys find the samsung starter pack for that low? I paid $129 ea. For 2 pairs of the glasses so $269 and I dont get the 3d bluray you got im the kit. I assume that because of the movie that the kit with 2 glasses and the movie was more then just getting 2 pairs of the glasses separate?


I may have to cancel my order...


----------



## Hyabusha

Flee Bay my friend.


----------



## cesar2010

I saw them on E-bay selling for around 100 with the blue ray just not batteries n not in the original box...


----------



## id10tech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KenBoggs* /forum/post/18917430
> 
> 
> I just found the 3 DC-1000 at HSN.com I chatted with the customer service rep at HSN to insure they are in stock.
> 
> 
> Ken : I'm looking at an item that is not available anywhere else. I want to confirm that you really have it is stock and how quickly you can ship it. item 956-485
> 
> Budd : Ken, please allow me one moment to look into this for you.
> 
> Ken : ok
> 
> Budd : Thank you for waiting. I show that this item is available. If you order the item today then you should have it within 7-10 days.
> 
> Ken : Do you have expedited shipping available and where will it ship from
> 
> Budd : We do have 2-day shipping for $30.70 or 4-day for $15.95.
> 
> Ken : I can select those shipping option when I check out online?
> 
> Budd : That is correct.
> 
> 
> Now are you ready for the best part!!! Get it for for $339.96 (15% off) by using coupon code C77647 at check out





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wstaffor* /forum/post/18917557
> 
> 
> SICK! Sold. I'll return my adapter only coming this weekend (unless someone on here wants to buy it...)





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zapix* /forum/post/18917558
> 
> 
> Heads up ppl, the kit is available at hsn.com
> 
> http://www.hsn.com/mitsubishi-3d-hom...web_id=6055733
> 
> 
> $399.95 + 9.95 shipping.
> 
> 
> Status is "Almost Sold Out"
> 
> 
> I called and ordered one. They said it will arrive within about 10 days.



Ordered mine as soon as I saw the post. I didn't do the expidited shipping since the whole reason was to save money. Now I regret it!! I WANT IT NOW!!


----------



## Av8tr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KenBoggs* /forum/post/18917430
> 
> 
> I just found the 3 DC-1000 at HSN.com I chatted with the customer service rep at HSN to insure they are in stock.
> 
> 
> Ken : I'm looking at an item that is not available anywhere else. I want to confirm that you really have it is stock and how quickly you can ship it. item 956-485
> 
> Budd : Ken, please allow me one moment to look into this for you.
> 
> Ken : ok
> 
> Budd : Thank you for waiting. I show that this item is available. If you order the item today then you should have it within 7-10 days.
> 
> Ken : Do you have expedited shipping available and where will it ship from
> 
> Budd : We do have 2-day shipping for $30.70 or 4-day for $15.95.
> 
> Ken : I can select those shipping option when I check out online?
> 
> Budd : That is correct.
> 
> 
> Now are you ready for the best part!!! Get it for for $339.96 (15% off) by using coupon code C77647 at check out



Thanks VERY much for the tip. I was so excited, i didn't notice your coupon and I bought it at full price. Luckily when I called back, they were able to cancel it and reorder it with the discount.


----------



## Hyabusha

My Abt order shipped!! I'll be In 3D land this Tues!! ^_^ ^_^ ^_^


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Flee Bay my friend.



Yeah that's where I got the 2 individual pairs of ssg2100ab's....but they were $129 something each which was the lowest I saw them for so basically $260.


The same 2 pairs of glasses plus the bonus movie for $177 is a big difference. I thought I checked the price of the sam starter kit but maybe not and I just assumed the kit was more because the Mitsubishi one was and I didn't really care about the movie in the sam kit.


But damnt I basically paid $83 more just to not get the movie. Now I have to cancel the order and hope I get my eBay bucks back and can use bing again. Maybe this time I can try mrrebates too.


What a pain this 3d stuff has been as I've had the SAM 3d bluray player and had to return cus it didn't work with sams own 3d ready led dlp tv's and had the sag2100ab and had to return cus thru didn't work with the ssg1000's emitter (though from bb for $150 plus tax so no loss there).


All this trouble for little to no 3d content but then again i basically bought the samsung ssg1000's awhile back just for the avatar game on 360. But ateast I didn't need a converter.


And now I'm ready to get the grand canyon adventure 3d bluray from amazon.de just to have it a couple months early. I should just wait till the us release in oct. to even bother with 3d when there will be a little more content avail. Fios won't have any content till the end of the year anyway it looks like.


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *id10tech* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Ordered mine as soon as I saw the post. I didn't do the expidited shipping since the whole reason was to save money. Now I regret it!! I WANT IT NOW!!



Hm at that price I wonder if it's worth it even for samsung ppl even though the converter is of no use to us.


$63 or so for the emitter from

mitsuparts + $177-190 or so for the sam kit with 2 glasses= around $250 so no still not worth it for samsung ppl, oh well.


----------



## NSX1992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *olayinka* /forum/post/18917735
> 
> 
> Can anyone tell me if the 3D effects look the same on the mits dlp's as on the Sony bravias?? A sales person at best buy told me the DLP versions of 3D are not true 3D. I gotta Mits. WD-73833, ps3 and expecting the 3dc-1000 adapter. I'd rather spend the doe on an upgrade than watching a watered down version of 3D.



Don't believe BB or Frys since they have not seen a Mitsubishi in 3D. I have spent a cosiderable amount of time looking at Samsong,Panasonic and Sony 3D sets. The picture quality is equal or better on the Mits and the 3D effect is definatelly better on the big DLPs than the small sets. Avatar the game looked great on my 82" but I was concerned about 3D BR movies so I insisted Wilshire Home Entertainment connect the Panosonic player to the Mits and show Monsters vs Alliens. The salesman and I agreed that was the best 3D we have seen. The checkerboard display may be inferior in theory but you will never notice it. So far 3D broadcasts are not full 3D 1080p anyway.


----------



## NSX1992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/18915815
> 
> 
> good 3d effects like popouts and depth?



Yes there is more 3D than the BR movies plus you are walking or flying in the environment. The game also allows you to set the 3D effect based on your screen size and viewing distance.


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

Hsn sold out


----------



## rad

Strange happenings today. Powered everything back up and I couldn't get the 73735 to go back into 3D mode, wouldn't even allow me to select it. Pulled the AVR out of the loop, no change. Rebooted the DirecTV HR24, no change. For the heck of it I moved the cable to a different HDMI input on the TV and I could get that input to go into 3D mode, tried moving it back, no go. I've pulled the power on the set and going to see if that helps but right now very confused as to what's going on.


----------



## Darin

I don't remember the exact proceedure, but there was an issue with inputs that could be solved by essentially disconnecting the cable, deleting the input, then re-connecting the input.


----------



## rgd18

After being promised twice that it would ship "this week" and then told on Thursday that it would ship "anyday now", Customer Service today told me that the new delivery date is now "end of July".







July 2010?










Any updates from Electronics Warehouse? Their site still shows 7/28 (which is now consistent with ABT.com)


----------



## nyc3dwd60738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cesar2010* /forum/post/18917766
> 
> 
> Uploading videos to youtube right now, if anyone wants anything in specific they wish to see let me know n i will record it..I will post links once videos are done uploading.
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: 1.UNBOXING: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6BptO0rCQQ
> 
> 
> 2. IN-ACTION http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xII7JqaAPRQ



cesar how is the to watch in 3d from an angle in your mits tv ?do u loose the 3d effects when u watch from angle ?and how is when u watch in light ?


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

i betcha we gonna have 2 more shipments this month on starter kit on 19 and 27 july th


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18918732
> 
> 
> I don't remember the exact proceedure, but there was an issue with inputs that could be solved by essentially disconnecting the cable, deleting the input, then re-connecting the input.



Yea, tried that, no joy. I can move the HDMI cable over to input 2 and enable 3D, move it back to input 1, name it and the 3D option isn't even selectable.


Found the MENU then enter 123 reset method and the port again lets me enable 3D. Now I got to figure out what caused it to disable it in the 1st place.


----------



## olayinka

preciate the feedback. just dont like settling for less


----------



## cesar2010

I dont seem to have a problem with the angles you really dont lose the 3d effects, the only issue is flourencent lights(which i have) they seem to cause some flickering/reflection n reduce the quality... So i just turn the lights off...


----------



## bori

I ordered the kit from hsn then canceled it. Not enough 3d material yet that convinces me to spend the money.


----------



## nc88keyz

Outisde there is a vast world of free 3D content as someone put it humorously.


The other day my parents let me know that they are planning a life trip to the Palestine to walk in the steps of Jesus Christ while they are vibrant and healthy.


I said, save your money....wait 6 months. That will be available on 3D _ BluRay for about 69.99 at Worst Buys.


----------



## Scubawoman

I just called Abt and they told me they are expecting to receive the starter kit this coming week.


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

Cmon u guys who already have the mitsubishi starter kit and dont need no more the xpand x102 glasse have a heart and sell it to me for 50$ . I need them till my starter kit comes


----------



## advocate2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/18917805
> 
> 
> I beat cha by $8. Mine was $177
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But you win since you have the Mits pack. ;(



Now, now, Hya, let's not exaggerate. You paid $177.50. From the ratings, it looks like we bought from the same seller on EB.


----------



## buzzard767




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NSX1992* /forum/post/18918058
> 
> 
> The checkerboard display may be inferior in theory but you will never notice it. So far 3D broadcasts are not full 3D 1080p anyway.



I agree. With the blu-ray content I've watched so far the picture is better than Samsung and Panasonic LCD's and Plasmas. Absolutely no ghosting or other problems.


Buzz


----------



## advocate2

Cesar.



Thanks for your set up video. I went ahead and purchased the HDMI switch like the one in your video. Since I am running my PS3 through the 1.3 AVR first, I hope it still works. If it doesn't, I'm only out $13.95.


----------



## nyc3dwd60738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cesar2010* /forum/post/18917766
> 
> 
> Uploading videos to youtube right now, if anyone wants anything in specific they wish to see let me know n i will record it..I will post links once videos are done uploading.
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: 1.UNBOXING: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6BptO0rCQQ
> 
> 
> 2. IN-ACTION http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xII7JqaAPRQ



Can u please send me the link where to buy the hdmi switsh like yours ?


----------



## steelers1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/18920453
> 
> 
> Can u please send me the link where to buy the hdmi switsh like yours ?



here you go. http://www.amazon.com/3-Port-Smart-H.../dp/B0015YWKYY


----------



## Coolrey3

Hey for all you guys buying the kit what setup are you using to play 3d games on your pc?


----------



## nyc3dwd60738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/18917805
> 
> 
> I beat cha by $8. Mine was $177
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But you win since you have the Mits pack. ;(



can u please write me the link to buy the samsung starter kit


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> can u please write me the link to buy the samsung starter kit



It's just on eBay so you can just search for the kit and see who has it lowest as maybe another seller has it lowered but last I checked the lowest was like $199. But even that is better then the $129 ea I paid for 2 pairs individually and no movie. So annoyed too cus I haven't heard back from the seller so I'm just going to refuse shipment.


All this does is delay my 3d. No content anyway. Being an early adapter sucks...


I've had a pair of ssg1000's for over 6 mo now and used them with the avatar vid game on 360 when that first came out. You'd think by now thered be more content and that they'd just out the checkerboard option in the media (game or movie) itself but no it's all about manipulating the consumer to buy new tvs. Between that and these exclusives and fios not having any 3d at all I'm ready to boycott 3d all together.


All the exclusives is doing is forcing ppl to pirate it all which I think is funny


----------



## steelers1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/18920814
> 
> 
> can u please write me the link to buy the samsung starter kit



here you go again. http://electronics.shop.ebay.com/?_f...kit&_sacat=293


----------



## audiopho




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rad* /forum/post/18918692
> 
> 
> Strange happenings today. Powered everything back up and I couldn't get the 73735 to go back into 3D mode, wouldn't even allow me to select it. Pulled the AVR out of the loop, no change. Rebooted the DirecTV HR24, no change. For the heck of it I moved the cable to a different HDMI input on the TV and I could get that input to go into 3D mode, tried moving it back, no go. I've pulled the power on the set and going to see if that helps but right now very confused as to what's going on.



Try this, if you ever went back to the TV menu and make sure the TV is in 3d mode or selected?

Or just press the 3d button (manually) more than one time on your remote.


----------



## audiopho




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njfoses* /forum/post/18916453
> 
> 
> Do you have to manually select sbs mode on the adapter when on channel 103?



I might have done that the very first time but that could very well be I was playing with the remote 3d button.

Otherwise I did not think so.


----------



## audiopho




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/18916770
> 
> 
> Do any of you that have trouble getting the ESPN-3D channel on Direct TV also have any trouble getting ESPN-HD or ESPN-HD2 which you subscribe to on DirecTV.



There is nothing on ESPN3D to watch or TBA since friday.

I have no problem watching any other EPSN HD channels however.


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiopho* /forum/post/18921080
> 
> 
> Try this, if you ever went back to the TV menu and make sure the TV is in 3d mode or selected?
> 
> Or just press the 3d button (manually) more than one time on your remote.



That was the issue, went to the menu in the SETUP section and I couldn't even scroll to the 3D selection option. As I mentioned, after the MENU then 123 reset that HDMI-1 port is working just fine, as of now. Have to see in the morning if it's still working since it also worked yesterday but wouldn't when I tried it this morning.


----------



## illthreat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lumpy* /forum/post/18915540
> 
> 
> Invincible Tiger is pretty low res but it works pretty good. I wouldn't pay for it now though. It's basically a side scrolling game like Mortal Combat. In 3D it kind of looks like a marionette puppet theater.




IMHO, Invincible Tiger is not worth it. And I didn't think it held a candle to the other games available at "3D launch" (even tough IT has been out since last year). Motorstorm Pacific Rift and Wipeout HD are the best current 3D experience on PS3.


Invincible Tiger is nothing like Mortal Kombat either.







MK was a fighting game from '92. IT is a side scrolling action game that has some humor to the story and action. They have nothing similar except you kick your opponent. The same could be said for hundreds of other games.


----------



## illthreat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hermanos87* /forum/post/18916375
> 
> 
> Anyone looking to sell an emitter, I'd go as much as $80 for one



Mitsubishi sells them for $48.xx


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buzzard767* /forum/post/18920120
> 
> 
> I agree. With the blu-ray content I've watched so far the picture is better than Samsung and Panasonic LCD's and Plasmas. Absolutely no ghosting or other problems.
> 
> 
> Buzz



Agree 100%. When I looked at the 3D displays at BB I became quite concerned because I didn't enjoy looking at them. Then my adapter came today for my new Mits 65737, I slapped in my new German GC to my new Sony BDP-s470 and _Voila_ Glorious, beautiful, ghost free 3D!!


----------



## nyc3dwd60738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmalter0* /forum/post/18921409
> 
> 
> Agree 100%. When I looked at the 3D displays at BB I became quite concerned because I didn't enjoy looking at them. Then my adapter came today for my new Mits 65737, I slapped in my new German GC to my new Sony BDP-s470 and _Voila_ Glorious, beautiful, ghost free 3D!!



can u write down the link where to buy the 3d br grand k in german and does it play on us 3d br players?


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiopho* /forum/post/18921104
> 
> 
> There is nothing on ESPN3D to watch or TBA since friday.
> 
> I have no problem watching any other EPSN HD channels however.



The summer X Games are coming up at the end of July.....


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steelers1* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> here you go again. http://dvd.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw...286.m270.l1311



No starter kit there.


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmalter0* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Agree 100%. When I looked at the 3D displays at BB I became quite concerned because I didn't enjoy looking at them. Then my adapter came today for my new Mits 65737, I slapped in my new German GC to my new Sony BDP-s470 and Voila Glorious, beautiful, ghost free 3D!!



No dlp are full HD 3d though. Also if you got the panny bdt350 you wouldn't need the adapter for blurays.


----------



## erg0010

How do you purchase the 3d adapter (emitter) from Mitsubishi? I have been all over their site and see no purchase information. Thanks.


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erg0010* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> How do you purchase the 3d adapter (emitter) from Mitsubishi? I have been all over their site and see no purchase information. Thanks.



Mitsuparts.com


Not available till aug. 15


----------



## erg0010

OK, thanks. Just getting impatient. I have a WD-82837, Panny 350, PS3, Directv Hr24s, Samsung starter kit, HTPC with the new Cyberlink Ultra 3D and still can't watch 3d. Just need the emitter.


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erg0010* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> OK, thanks. Just getting impatient. I have a WD-82837, Panny 350, PS3, Directv Hr24s, Samsung starter kit, HTPC with the new Cyberlink Ultra 3D and still can't watch 3d. Just need the emitter.



Don't you need the adapter/converter too for everything other then the panny 350?

Why not get the Mitsubishi starter kit and sel me the sanding one cheap.


Unless I guess some of these Mitsubishi dlp's do side by side which I don't know how cus I thought dlp couldn't. Fr the ones they do it's almost tempting just for the size but I don't understand the point of the 65" and smaller other then it's cheaper then the 65" panny 3d plasma or the soon to be released 65" sam 3d led lcd.


I just can't bring myself to buy another dlp just to have something bulky and hard to sell later and requires emitter and isn't full HD in 3d even if it does side by side. I have 3 sam dlp, 2 are 3d led and one is not 3d and is lamp based but isf calibrated.


I do wish they made the 3d plasma and especially thin led LCD larger then 65" though.


That 82" Mitsu must be sweet though even if It is just dlp. Personally I don't think I need robot would go much larger then 67" and as it us that has spoiled me to make it harder to go to 65" which as I mentioned is the largest flat screen 3d tvs. 82" would make everything seem too small and going to be a Ming wait for 3d flat screens that big. Took long enough just to get 65" led LCD period as largest was 55 for 2-3 years it seems. 67" is the sweet spot for me.


So your all set except an emitter eh. See of someone will sell you one from a nits starter kit or just get the kit and sell what you don't need though the extra glasses could come in hady and same for the converter.


If you haven't opened your sanding starter kit I'd buy that for a good low price and you can get the mits starter kit.


And even then you are in the same limited content bottle neck as the rest of us.


----------



## erg0010

I *think* I only need the adapter for the Directv receiver. The other stuff can output checkerboard. So that leaves me needing the emitter to get started. I bought the Samsung kit off ebay just to get the extra set of glasses.


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Quatre* /forum/post/18921711
> 
> 
> No dlp are full HD 3d though. Also if you got the panny bdt350 you wouldn't need the adapter for blurays.



Stop reading and start looking--the Mits 3D image blew away the Panny image. Also, I need the adapter to see other than BR 3D; the Sony + the adapter cost a total of $ 268, less than the 350 alone.


----------



## BelB64

It's 8:15 AM in NYC and I just was able to order the adapter starter kit from HSN(Delivery on or before July 28). It states on the website "almost sold out"


Good luck!


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/18921674
> 
> 
> can u write down the link where to buy the 3d br grand k in german and does it play on us 3d br players?



"Amazon.de" Not only plays on US players, it will play in English!


----------



## Coolrey3

Hey guys I'm trying to figure out which 3d glasses to purchase for use with the kit in the future.


I know the x102s will work with the kit and my pc( limited 3d content ATM so pc is probably main use for a while) but I was curious if the samsung 2200ar will work with the kit and my pc since for the mean time I won't be purchasing the adapter box until I get direct tv or another 3d source, or unless some 3d ps3 games come out.


Any help appreciated! Waiting on some confirmation to place my order. Thanks and let me know if snyoe already know off the top of their head if you the Sammy glasses are plug and play with a mitsubishi(60c9) or if you absolutely need the adapter as that's the only place the emitter will be recognized.


----------



## wstaffor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *erg0010* /forum/post/18921988
> 
> 
> I *think* I only need the adapter for the Directv receiver. The other stuff can output checkerboard. So that leaves me needing the emitter to get started. I bought the Samsung kit off ebay just to get the extra set of glasses.



You'll need it for the PS3, too, except for the few games that can output in checkerboard (Avatar).


----------



## steelers1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Quatre* /forum/post/18921705
> 
> 
> No starter kit there.



sorry wrong link here it is. http://electronics.shop.ebay.com/?_f...kit&_sacat=293


----------



## advocate2

Both Hyabusa and I bought the Samsung kit from this Ebay seller:


consumerelectronicscostsavers


The shipping was fast and the kit arrived in the sealed box, brand new.


----------



## Hyabusha

Yep! ^_^


So Is everyone leaving the adapter on all the time to be able to pass 2D content thru It?


And If the PS3 Is the only 3D component, just leave the adapter's 3D setting on side by side?


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

i thought ps3 is frame packed format not side by side?im i wrong? if its side by side format how come then doesnt recognise my mits wd 60738 series wich supporst side by side format???


----------



## mds54

Is anyone else here using the Mits starter kit with a 833 series TV and a Moto DCX3400 DVR? I'm having issues with the connections and settings.....


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/18923405
> 
> 
> i thought ps3 is frame packed format not side by side?im i wrong? if its side by side format how come then doesnt recognise my mits wd 60738 series wich supporst side by side format???



Maybe I was wrong about side by side...


----------



## Coolrey3

Can anyone verify if 3d samsung glasses that come in the kit can be plugged straight into the connector port in the back of the Mitsubishi tv without the converter box to get 3d from a computer?


----------



## illthreat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Quatre* /forum/post/18921716
> 
> 
> Mitsuparts.com
> 
> 
> Not available till aug. 15



They had them available to purchase the other day. Must have sold out; sorry to mislead.


----------



## illthreat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/18923159
> 
> 
> Yep! ^_^
> 
> 
> So Is everyone leaving the adapter on all the time to be able to pass 2D content thru It?
> 
> 
> And If the PS3 Is the only 3D component, just leave the adapter's 3D setting on side by side?




Unless I'm missing something (not sure how)... when you shut off the 3D adapter you get blank screen.. in other words, it does not pass through when powered off. My biggest (yet smallest) complaint.


I just leave it on and leave it on it's standard setting. Works great. Everyonce in a while I get a few artifacts from the HDMI signal. But, only when switching inputs on the Yamaha 1065.


----------



## pjb16




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Coolrey3* /forum/post/18923489
> 
> 
> Can anyone verify if 3d samsung glasses that come in the kit can be plugged straight into the connector port in the back of the Mitsubishi tv without the converter box to get 3d from a computer?



No Samsung (nor Mits) glasses can be plugged directly into the connector port in the back of a Mits tv for 3D viewing.


----------



## walford

The current 3D games that are available for a PS3s which have HDMI 1.3 or older transmitter chips have the 3D implemented by the game company not by Sony and these games output checkerboard or frame sequential format. These games existed long before the HDMI 1.4a 3D formats such as, frame sequetial, SbS, or TnB were established long before any HDMI 1.4 specs were even published. This is why a 2010 737 or 838 Mits TV does not recognise them. I am not sure what formats the new 3D games that the PS3 will support are broadcast in.

AFAIK the 3D glases that come with the Samsung kit will only work work with Samsung 3D TVs or the emitter that comes with the MiTs 3D stater kit


----------



## jrsyjohn

hey just got the 3dc-1000 and a sony 3d dvd player for 535.00 shipped. if you are a first time customer on hsn use coupon code c77647 at checkout and it takes 75.00 off.the total is 535.00. just got mine. will be shipped tomorrow. the sony player is the bdp-s470. not a bad deal.


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/18917805
> 
> 
> I beat cha by $8. Mine was $177
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But you win since you have the Mits pack. ;(



now I beat you!

$189.99 - $60 ebay bucks - $15 instant cashback= $115!


that and the emitter from mitsuparts should arrive this week. now I just need to order Grand Canyon from amazon.de i guess and in the meantime I have the SSG1000's, pan and LG demo discs and Avatar and Invinceable tiger game.


I guess I will need the samsung adapter/converter to view ps3 demos but I may just wait till I get new sam led lcd.


Then just have to switch back to comcast and/or directv, ugh. Fios sucks, even att uverse has 3d and I want to watch the x games in 3d at the end of the month.


----------



## bori




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cesar2010* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Uploading videos to youtube right now, if anyone wants anything in specific they wish to see let me know n i will record it..I will post links once videos are done uploading.
> 
> 
> EDIT: 1.UNBOXING: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6BptO0rCQQ
> 
> 
> 2. IN-ACTION http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xII7JqaAPRQ



Thanks for the videos but next time work on cleaning up your setup looks horrible.


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Quatre* /forum/post/18924333
> 
> 
> now I beat you!
> 
> $189.99 - $60 ebay bucks - $15 instant cashback= $115!



Oh no... $189.99 Discounts and bucks don't count lol.










Where did you get the LG Demo???


----------



## pajer

got the starter kit hooked up ran it through my existing yamaha 6090 receiver which is only hdmi 1.2a. 3d video came through ok from directv receiver and ps3 but not the audio, had to run both sources directy through adapter and both were good. which is why i picked up a pioneer 1020 1.4 receiver, unless i want to run optical audio to yamaha receiver. i hooked sony 3d 570 blu ray player directly to tv and played the disney blu-ray that came with the starter kit and all i can say is awesome quality.


the directv 3d channels were mixed results at best. pretty disappointed with quality. the 3d download demos of the ps3 games were pretty good quality. the bigger problem is wife was getting a headache and really dizzy from watching 3d. so i may have to forego 3d or get a divorce. decisions, decisions!


----------



## wstaffor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jrsyjohn* /forum/post/18924276
> 
> 
> hey just got the 3dc-1000 and a sony 3d dvd player for 535.00 shipped. if you are a first time customer on hsn use coupon code c77647 at checkout and it takes 75.00 off.the total is 535.00. just got mine. will be shipped tomorrow. the sony player is the bdp-s470. not a bad deal.



That's not a good price on that BDP, even after the discount. Can get the 570 (next model up) for less than 200 if you look.


----------



## cesar2010




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bori* /forum/post/18924431
> 
> 
> Thanks for the videos but next time work on cleaning up your setup looks horrible.



smh lol


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/18924448
> 
> 
> Oh no... $189.99 Discounts and bucks don't count lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where did you get the LG Demo???



i understand bucks dont count buy 8% cashback does cus anyone can get it which brings it to $175 after $15 back instantly so thats lower then 177. Could maybe try for days trying to win by bidding less then 175 but prob wont happen so buy it now with bing cashback was best way to go.


But the seller now raised his price to $195, heh, which is kind of crapp.


a friend gave me the LG demo but biohemmet.se has all the demos and lots of other content.


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/18924448
> 
> 
> Oh no... $189.99 Discounts and bucks don't count lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where did you get the LG Demo???



i understand bucks dont count buy 8% cashback does cus anyone can get it which brings it to $175 after $15 back instantly so thats lower then 177. Could maybe try for days trying to win by bidding less then 175 but prob wont happen so buy it now with bing cashback was best way to go.


But the seller now raised his price to $195, heh, which is kind of crapp.


a friend gave me the LG demo but biohemmet.se has all the demos and lots of other content.


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *advocate2* /forum/post/18922816
> 
> 
> Both Hyabusa and I bought the Samsung kit from this Ebay seller:
> 
> 
> consumerelectronicscostsavers
> 
> 
> The shipping was fast and the kit arrived in the sealed box, brand new.



ah, that seller seems good but his buy it now on the starter kit is $219. I guess you guys that got it for 180 something and 177 got it by bidding but that can take days to win one at a decent price. buy it now at 189 with $15 back instantly bringing it to 175 was the way to go after all.


----------



## wstaffor

Just got an email from HSN saying they're backordered on the kit! KJHBALKDHBDAKKUDHAK. I was the second person on here to use them I think, so it looks like most of us that bought there will get delayed.


----------



## PaulGo

Sony is limiting its 3D games to 720p so they can keep a 60fps frame rate on the PS3, I wonder it the Mits adapter can handle this without a significant game lag since it need to convert everything to 1080p for 3D checkerboard.

http://www.joystiq.com/2010/07/16/so...-in-ps3-games/


----------



## Hermanos87




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wstaffor* /forum/post/18926115
> 
> 
> Just got an email from HSN saying they're backordered on the kit! KJHBALKDHBDAKKUDHAK. I was the second person on here to use them I think, so it looks like most of us that bought there will get delayed.



I ordered late Friday night around 11:30 perhaps off of HSN, I contacted them today after reading your post and they told me that everything was fine with my order and it will arrive by the 22nd. Not sure if you ordered before or after that


----------



## wstaffor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hermanos87* /forum/post/18926290
> 
> 
> I ordered late Friday night around 11:30 perhaps off of HSN, I contacted them today after reading your post and they told me that everything was fine with my order and it will arrive by the 22nd. Not sure if you ordered before or after that



I ordered Fri at 11:39PM. Guess I just missed the cutoff.


----------



## BelB64

Wstaffor- I just ordered on Friday the Mits kit from HSN and I haven't received the e-mail delaying shipment as yet. When I go to my account it still reads shipment to arrive on or about July 28. What was your original arrival estimate? Maybe the late July date is the one for everyone.


----------



## wstaffor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BelB64* /forum/post/18926312
> 
> 
> Wstaffor- I just ordered on Friday the Mits kit from HSN and I haven't received the e-mail delaying shipment as yet. When I go to my account it still reads shipment to arrive on or about July 28. What was your original arrival estimate? Maybe the late July date is the one for everyone.



"Dear XXXXXXX,


We're sorry, due to a product shortage, we've been unable to ship your order for 1 Mitsubishi 3D Home Cinema Starter Kit for 3D Televisions.


We hope to have the item in stock within a few weeks and will ship it to you as soon as possible. We will continue to work to fulfill your order for 30 days.


If we are unable to get this item back in stock by Aug 18, 2010, we will cancel the order for you and send you an email notification. If you'd like to cancel the order now, please contact Customer Service at 1.800.933.2887 (8 am-1 am ET).


Your credit card will be charged when the order ships.


Thank you for your patience and understanding. We apologize for the inconvenience."


----------



## GreggyJ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulGo* /forum/post/18926193
> 
> 
> Sony is limiting its 3D games to 720p so they can keep a 60fps frame rate on the PS3, I wonder it the Mits adapter can handle this without a significant game lag since it need to convert everything to 1080p for 3D checkerboard.
> 
> http://www.joystiq.com/2010/07/16/so...-in-ps3-games/



It works with the 3D games already released--all of which downgrade to 720p anyway. It will be fine.


----------



## nyc3dwd60738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GreggyJ* /forum/post/18926328
> 
> 
> It works with the 3D games already released--all of which downgrade to 720p anyway. It will be fine.



so u guys 100 % sure we not gonna have trouble playng games in ps3 even they downgraded to 720 p ..just wondering are the games gonna look crisp like in 1080 p in 3d ?


----------



## wstaffor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BelB64* /forum/post/18926312
> 
> 
> Wstaffor- I just ordered on Friday the Mits kit from HSN and I haven't received the e-mail delaying shipment as yet. When I go to my account it still reads shipment to arrive on or about July 28. What was your original arrival estimate? Maybe the late July date is the one for everyone.



Also, my status on the website still says 7/22 as well.


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

whats new starting this monday?who from onine retailers may have in stock the most wanted 3dc-1000 starter kit? lets go hunt online find out and share it here!!!!!


----------



## cesar2010

Just wondering has anyone had the chance of testing to see if the Rechargeable Samsung SSG-2200AR glasses work with the kit?


----------



## eddy_winds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/18926411
> 
> 
> just wondering are the games gonna look crisp like in 1080 p in 3d ?



"The effects of this policy are probably unnoticeable to most gamers. Benson said that, in 3D, even trained computer graphics artists could barely tell the difference between the resolutions. Still, for all you pixel counters out there who obsess over "full HD 1080p," here's another bit of technical trivia for you to argue over."

-limiting-use-of-1080p-3d-in-ps3-games


----------



## Hermanos87




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wstaffor* /forum/post/18926300
> 
> 
> I ordered Fri at 11:39PM. Guess I just missed the cutoff.



Maybe attempt to contact them via phone and see if they can confirm that, because now the things got me worried.


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cesar2010* /forum/post/18926462
> 
> 
> Just wondering has anyone had the chance of testing to see if the Rechargeable Samsung SSG-2200AR glasses work with the kit?



Yes they work, they are the exact same glasses as In the Mits starter pack.


----------



## wstaffor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/18926525
> 
> 
> Yes they work, they are the exact same glasses as In the Mits starter pack.



No, he is asking about the 2100AR, not 2100AB (which are the same as the Mits glasses). The AR version uses rechargeable batteries. I have yet to see anyone actually confirm that they will work, though I think all of us are 99% sure they will.


----------



## wstaffor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hermanos87* /forum/post/18926506
> 
> 
> Maybe attempt to contact them via phone and see if they can confirm that, because now the things got me worried.



Already did that. Definitely backordered, hope to have it by mid-August they said. FYI, my status on the website still says on time shipping by 7/22, so you may want to double check your email or call yourself.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wstaffor* /forum/post/18926559
> 
> 
> No, he is asking about the 2100AR, not 2100AB (which are the same as the Mits glasses). The AR version uses rechargeable batteries. I have yet to see anyone actually confirm that they will work, though I think all of us are 99% sure they will.



My kit and the kids version of the rechargeables are due tomorrow so I'll know for sure tomorrow and will post.


From what I have seen, the rechargeables are compatible with exactly the same Sammy TVs as the non-rechargeable model, so it would be pretty surprising if they weren't also compatible with the Mits emitter.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wstaffor* /forum/post/18926559
> 
> 
> No, he is asking about the 2100AR, not 2100AB (which are the same as the Mits glasses). The AR version uses rechargeable batteries. I have yet to see anyone actually confirm that they will work, though I think all of us are 99% sure they will.



99% sure? The rechargeables are compatible with exactly the same Sammy TVs as the non-rechargeable model, which is compatible with Mits, so _why would they not_ work?


----------



## Hermanos87




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wstaffor* /forum/post/18926564
> 
> 
> Already did that. Definitely backordered, hope to have it by mid-August they said. FYI, my status on the website still says on time shipping by 7/22, so you may want to double check your email or call yourself.



Actually that makes me feel better than, because I did call and they said everything was good to go with my order, guess you must have just missed the cut.


----------



## wstaffor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Augerhandle* /forum/post/18926612
> 
> 
> 99% sure? The rechargeables are compatible with exactly the same Sammy TVs as the non-rechargeable model, which is compatible with Mits, so _why would they not_ work?



Maybe the Sam TVs are outputting 2 separate signals for the different models? I don't know, why are you so completely certain when noone has actually done it yet? Like I said, 99% they will work, but you should never be 100% certain of things until you know for sure.


----------



## wstaffor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hermanos87* /forum/post/18926641
> 
> 
> Actually that makes me feel better than, because I did call and they said everything was good to go with my order, guess you must have just missed the cut.



Guess so. So frustrating.


Why do all these retailers apparently have inventory systems from like 1980? Why the hell wouldn't their system know how many they have and only sell that number?


----------



## cesar2010




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18926588
> 
> 
> From what I have seen, the rechargeables are compatible with exactly the same Sammy TVs as the non-rechargeable model, so it would be pretty surprising if they weren't also compatible with the Mits emitter.



Yeah makes sense they would since it would be almost stupid for samsung to work in different frequency...so it makes sense they most liekly would work..but then again you could say the samething about the 1100's



BTW the prices seem to have gone thru the roof for sammy glasses on ebay since more mits users are buying them guess supply n demand...


----------



## Y2JDMBFAN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *advocate2* /forum/post/18922816
> 
> 
> Both Hyabusa and I bought the Samsung kit from this Ebay seller:
> 
> 
> consumerelectronicscostsavers
> 
> 
> The shipping was fast and the kit arrived in the sealed box, brand new.



So the glasses from the SSG-P2100T work with the 3DC1000?


----------



## wstaffor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Y2JDMBFAN* /forum/post/18926746
> 
> 
> So the glasses from the SSG-P2100T work with the 3DC1000?



Yes. Same glasses.


----------



## Coolrey3

Is it safe to assume if I have a pair of x102s I can buy the adapter and be able to use my pc and ps3 in 3d on my c9


----------



## cesar2010

ok just received a pair of battery samsung glasses indeed the same n work just like the mitsubishi...


Was wondering i sit about 7ft(farthest i can) from my 60" c9 is there an advantage sitting farther away or closer?


----------



## Mounta1n




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cesar2010* /forum/post/18927216
> 
> 
> ok just received a pair of battery samsung glasses indeed the same n work just like the mitsubishi...
> 
> 
> Was wondering i sit about 7ft(farthest i can) from my 60" c9 is there an advantage sitting farther away or closer?



Recommended THX viewing distance for a 60" HDTV is 6.7ft, so you're definitely right in the ballpark. You could nudge the sofa forward a few inches if you wanted. Maximum viewing distance based on visual acuity for 1080p, meaning that you can actually resolve the detail in a 1080p picture, is 7.8ft for a 60" screen. If you are further back than that, then you wouldn't be able to make out all the detail and a 1080p Blu-ray would likely only look as good as an upconverted DVD.


You can google "thx distance calculators" to see the recommended seating distances for other screen sizes, or figure out a recommended screen size for your seating distance.


----------



## khee mao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/18926411
> 
> 
> so u guys 100 % sure we not gonna have trouble playng games in ps3 even they downgraded to 720 p ..just wondering are the games gonna look crisp like in 1080 p in 3d ?




SuperStarDust looks incredible in 3D and plays just as crisply. Wipeout looks between pretty good and great, and MotorStorm definitely loses some detail, but is is a hoot in 3D (also no noticeable lag on MS, hard to tell on Wipeout as the controls are 'floaty' in 2D). these consoles were already pushed to their limits graphically, but next gens should be rock solid. that said, the adapter works great with the current crop of PS3 3D enabled games (haven't tried Pain).


----------



## Hyabusha

How Is everyone setting up their PS3 for the "first" time with a 1.3 receiver and the adapter?


----------



## wstaffor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/18927729
> 
> 
> How Is everyone setting up their PS3 for the "first" time with a 1.3 receiver and the adapter?



Someone posted previously that they had to connect the PS3 directly to the adapter the first time so that it recognized the 3D all unlocked the settings. Then after that, they were able to send it through the AVR and it worked fine.


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wstaffor* /forum/post/18927741
> 
> 
> Someone posted previously that they had to connect the PS3 directly to the adapter the first time so that it recognized the 3D all unlocked the settings. Then after that, they were able to send it through the AVR and it worked fine.



Ok, I just wanted to make sure there wasn't another way.


Thx.


----------



## mds54

I am so confused...I need an expert here.....

I am using 1.3 HDMI from my MPEG4 DVR to the Mits starter kit to the TV for 3D.

(Audio is currently optical) I want to run another separate cable from the DVR straight to the TV just for HD/SD viewing. Thus a 1-in/2-out splitter would solve my problem. Would a 1.3 splitter work for 3D with my setup? Some say it has to be 1.4, which doesn't exist yet......


----------



## cesar2010

it should be fine


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/18928161
> 
> 
> I am so confused...I need an expert here.....
> 
> I am using 1.3 HDMI from my MPEG4 DVR to the Mits starter kit to the TV for 3D.
> 
> (Audio is currently optical) I want to run another separate cable from the DVR straight to the TV just for HD/SD viewing. Thus a 1-in/2-out splitter would solve my problem. Would a 1.3 splitter work for 3D with my setup? Some say it has to be 1.4, which doesn't exist yet......



Dont' want to self-proclaim myself to be an expert, but the answer likely depends upon a couple of things. First, does your DVR require a 1.4 capable device to be directly connected? Some do, some don't. currently, directv does but they have been toggling that requirement on and off over the last few days so it is uncertain right now.


If your DVR does require such, then you would need a 1.4 splitter/switch connected to the DVR OR connect the adapter directly to it, then use a 1.3 splitter/switch after the adapter to split the signal which probably defeats the reason for splitting the signal in the first place.


Another expensive option, if your DVR does require a 1.4 device, is to use an hdmi detective (or another mits adapter itself) connected to the DVR to spoof the mits adapter, then a 1.3 splitter/switch that feeds the mits adapter and whatever else you want to feed on the other switch output.


If your DVR does not require a 1.4 device, then you should be able to use a 1.3 splitter/switch out of the DVR and feed the adapter and whatever else you want from the switch. I've actually had success doing this (but without the adapter in place to convert to checkerboard) while Directv had the 1.4 requirement turned off.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18928300
> 
> 
> use an hdmi detective (or another mits adapter itself) connected to the DVR



using the adapter instead of the detective as stated above might also defeat your purposes of splitting the signal. I'm not sure if the D* DVR will output the SBS if the first mits adapter it encounters is in 2D mode. If it does, then should still work. If not, then probably stuck using the detective.


either way, probabably better to just wait it out and buy a 1.4 splitter if necessary.


----------



## mds54

^^^^^

Thanks for all the info!

I don't know what my DVR requires. It is a Moto DCX3400 (from Comcast). My current 3D viewing of DVR recordings is superb, but I have to switch HDMI cables *manually* to accomplish what I'd like to do with a splitter. Will I eventually be damaging the HDMI cables by constantly switching them manually, or affecting their "handshakes"?


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/18928374
> 
> 
> ^^^^^
> 
> Thanks for all the info!
> 
> I don't know what my DVR requires. It is a Moto DCX3400 (from Comcast). My current 3D viewing of DVR recordings is superb, but I have to switch HDMI cables *manually* to accomplish what I'd like to do with a splitter.



I think Comcast is SBS and may not require the 1.4 connection. If you connect the DVR directly to the TV, do you see the SBS signal? If so, then a 1.3 splitter will pass it through to the mits adapter and you should be good. We D* customers are hoping for that convenience as well.


----------



## wstaffor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/18928374
> 
> 
> ^^^^^
> 
> Thanks for all the info!
> 
> I don't know what my DVR requires. It is a Moto DCX3400 (from Comcast). My current 3D viewing of DVR recordings is superb, but I have to switch HDMI cables *manually* to accomplish what I'd like to do with a splitter. Will I eventually be damaging the HDMI cables by constantly switching them manually, or affecting their "handshakes"?



Any specific reason you don't want to run non-3D stuff through the adapter?


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18928394
> 
> 
> I think Comcast is SBS and may not require the 1.4 connection. If you connect the DVR directly to the TV, do you see the SBS signal? If so, then a 1.3 switch will pass it through to the mits adapter and you should be good. We D* customers are hoping for that convenience as well.



Please excuse my ignorance....does SBS mean side-by-side 3D format?

If so, yes, I can see the SBS picture just fine (as SBS) Also T/B (ESPN3)


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/18928425
> 
> 
> Please excuse my ignorance....does SBS mean side-by-side 3D format?
> 
> If so, yes, I can see the SBS picture just fine (as SBS) Also T/B (ESPN3)



correct. if you see it without the mits adapter in place, then get a 1.3 splitter if you want to avoid having the adapter powered on during 2D content or for any other good reason I can't think of at the moment. (I've heard the adapter can do 2D passthrough without upscaling).


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wstaffor* /forum/post/18928420
> 
> 
> Any specific reason you don't want to run non-3D stuff through the adapter?



I tried that initially, but it screws up my DVR resolution settings, and must be powered up for all TV viewing. I also have to switch between modes (HDDVR vs Game) on my 833 series TV because Game is the only setting that accepts 3D, which is a bit of a menu setting hassle. You guys with newer models don't have that requirement. With a splitter, I can leave that Game input setting on all the time for the 3D connection.


----------



## Darin

Has anyone who has the adapter hooked it up UPSTREAM of a 1.3 AVR? Since Mits programmed it to require the EDID of a Mits TV to enable itself, will it see the Mits TV if there's a receiver in between?


I'm fearing no.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/18928447
> 
> 
> Because it screws up my DVR resolution settings, and must be powered up for all TV viewing. I also have to switch between modes (HDDVR vs Games) on my 833 series TV because Game is the only setting that accepts 3D, which is a bit of a menu setting hassle. With a splitter, I can leave that setting on all the time for the 3D connection.



do you have a 3d bd player also? If you only have 1 3D capable TV input, then consider getting the panny so that you can do a 1.3 splitter from the DVR with the 3D output to the 1.3 switch, and with the panny to the 1.3 switch as well. That way, the switch allows you to select which 3D input goes to the TV while the TV input lets you switch between 2D-DVR or 3D DVR/BD.


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

ok now ,does anybody know if the cyberlink 10 mark II 3D PC software is able to play the 3dbluray content on our checkerboard tvs or we again need the adapter to switch to frame ppacked format?


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18928494
> 
> 
> do you have a 3d bd player also?



Not yet. I'll wait for more 3D movie releases.











> Quote:
> If you only have 1 3D capable TV input, then consider getting the panny so that you can do a 1.3 splitter from the DVR with the 3D output to the 1.3 switch, and with the panny to the 1.3 switch as well. That way, the switch allows you to select which 3D input goes to the TV while the TV input lets you switch between 2D-DVR or 3D DVR/BD.



I have two available HDMI TV inputs that I can each set as Game for both DVR and a future 3D BD. I was thinking of getting the Panny 300 so it can go directly to my 2nd 3D TV Game input without use of any splitter or kit.


Thanks for the feedback!


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/18928525
> 
> 
> ok now ,does anybody know if the cyberlink 10 mark II 3D PC software is able to play the 3dbluray content on our checkerboard tvs or we again need the adapter to switch to frame ppacked format?



It should play w/o the adapter. My glasses just arrived today, and I already have PDVD10 installed, so I should know tonight!


----------



## nyc3dwd60738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18928555
> 
> 
> It should play w/o the adapter. My glasses just arrived today, and I already have PDVD10 installed, so I should know tonight!



please give us the full review


----------



## illthreat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18928481
> 
> 
> Has anyone who has the adapter hooked it up UPSTREAM of a 1.3 AVR? Since Mits programmed it to require the EDID of a Mits TV to enable itself, will it see the Mits TV if there's a receiver in between?
> 
> 
> I'm fearing no.





I believe I understand what you are asking. I posted the following summarized info back on page 8 or so:



> Quote:
> My current setup-
> 
> 
> PS3>Yamaha AVR (1.3)>3DC-1000>Mitsu TV
> 
> 
> ^^ all works well except I had to directly hook the PS3 to the 3DC-1000 temporally to have the PS3 initially detect the 3D display. Once detected, the Yamaha was back in the loop and working wonderfully.



edit, whoops I see what you meant. I haven't tried:


PS3>3DC-1000>AVR>TV


I can if it helps you with anything. Is there a strategy to doing this? I suppose if you only have 1 3D source it doesn't matter?


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/18928574
> 
> 
> please give us the full review



Well, a full review is going to have to wait until I have some real 3d content. I don't have any yet, so I just tested using the PDVD10 "sim3d" feature that is supposed to give a 3d effect to 2d. I tested using the dvd that happened to be in the HTPC (which was some lame free DVD we got a couple months ago when we adopted these puppies about how to train them). Not a good test, but I didn't have a lot of time. I can confirm that: PDVD10 does "work" (it outputs checkerboard properly), Sim3d works (not "great" 3d, maybe not worth much more than novelty, but it works better than I expected), and the rechargeable Samsung glasses work with the Mits emitter. For some reason I don't get any audio with PDVD10, but I'm sure that's an issue on my system I need to work out (I do get audio with TMT 3 though, which is puzzling). I also discovered that 3d is going to be a mostly nighttime event. There's a window just to the right of my TV, which faces west so it's pretty bright in the early evening. It's in your peripheral vision when watching TV. With the 3d glasses on, you don't see any flicker on the TV, but with the bright window being in the (light sensitive) peripheral vision of just one eye, that window appears to constantly flicker. Also, strangely, the glasses continues working after the TV turned off. What they were sync'd to is a mystery to me. And we need to find a remote shortcut for 3d mode. Wonder if there's a discrete code for that.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *illthreat* /forum/post/18928663
> 
> 
> edit, whoops I see what you meant. I haven't tried:
> 
> 
> PS3>3DC-1000>AVR>TV
> 
> 
> I can if it helps you with anything. Is there a strategy to doing this? I suppose if you only have 1 3D source it doesn't matter?



Well, there's a couple of implications. DirecTV doesn't work through a 1.3 reciever. So if you want to process audio/video through a receiver, that's going to be dependent on either DirecTV relaxing that requirement, or the adapter woking "through" an AVR (seeing the Mits TV EDID). The other issues as it pertains to the PS3 are: I'm skeptical of the PS3 working completely with the adapter through a 1.3 AVR on 3d blu-ray content, and I'm leary about how long the "plug the adapter in once" hack will work. Will the PS3 remember always that after setting changes? Firmware updates? Will Sony decide to change that? If the adapter DOESN'T work if there's a 1.3 AVR between it and the TV, these become important questions.


----------



## nyc3dwd60738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18928555
> 
> 
> It should play w/o the adapter. My glasses just arrived today, and I already have PDVD10 installed, so I should know tonight!



i have the wd60738 model2010 and conected to cyberlink 10 markII 3d wont regognise my tv as 3d ...how come .what should i do...i did the cyberlink 3d test and it passes everything just not my tv....


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/18929030
> 
> 
> i have the wd60738 model2010 and conected to cyberlink 10 markII 3d wont regognise my tv as 3d ...how come .what should i do...i did the cyberlink 3d test and it passes everything just not my tv....



Um, I'm not sure. I don't even see a test function anywhere. I just went into the menu (from within 7MC), the first menu item is 3d, and I went in there and turned it on.


----------



## khee mao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18915796
> 
> 
> No, the chip is 960x1080, but is wobulated to produce a 1920x1080 image 60 times a second in 2d mode, derived from two 960x1080 images at 120hz offset from one another. In 3d mode, the tv is essentially doing the exact same thing, but the shutter glasses only let each eye see every other 960x1080 image. If by "better than SBS", you mean a frame packed 3d blu-ray image looking better than SBS, yes. SBS is half the horizontal resolution for each eye. So while SBS is 960x1080 per eye, it's not "missing" the same pixels as checkerboard is. It's missing columns of pixels, while checkerboard is missing every other pixel, but the next row that is offset so that "missing" pixels are in a checkerboard format. Therefore, on a 3d DLP, a full rez (frame packed) 3d image will still look better than side by side, because each eye is only missing "half" the pixels. In SBS, you are essentially missing more pixels, because the missing pixels don't line up in the two formats. The missing pixels in SBS have to be interpolated, then out of that interpolation, new holes are put in.
> 
> 
> 
> No, it's not "1080p" (as in a full 1920x1080) per eye. We've had many conversations on this in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DLPs do not do 1920x1080x120hz. They do 960x1080x120hz. The wobulation allows them to do a full 1920x1080 frame at 60hz.




is it safe to assume since movies are 24 fps, the refresh rate of the set is fast enough to allow full resolution, albeit not in the same pass, i.e. instead of replicating each frames 5 times at 120hz, we're getting 2.5 instead, or at least 1 full resolution image per eye at 60hz?


----------



## nyc3dwd60738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18929081
> 
> 
> Um, I'm not sure. I don't even see a test function anywhere. I just went into the menu (from within 7MC), the first menu item is 3d, and I went in there and turned it on.



didnt ask u to choose the video displey ?wich one u choose ?i dont see dlp tv in the options to choose...its only red and green glass 3d tv ,3d ready tv and polarised glass tv...


----------



## rman726

I just purchased the 3DC-1000 starter kit on eBay. It cost me $450 instead of $400, but I really don't care. I bought it an hour ago and he has already sent me the UPS tracking number. I "pre-ordered" recently, since I just bought my TV a week and a half ago, on Amazon and that status changed to Temporarily out of stock, which makes me believe some pre-orders shipped and they ran out of their original shipment... so who knows when it will actually be available...


Hopefully my recording of the Yankees/Mariners game on n3D works, even though my TV wasn't compatible at the time of recording... I can't wait!!!


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *khee mao* /forum/post/18929213
> 
> 
> is it safe to assume since movies are 24 fps, the refresh rate of the set is fast enough to allow full resolution, albeit not in the same pass, i.e. instead of replicating each frames 5 times at 120hz, we're getting 2.5 instead, or at least 1 full resolution image per eye at 60hz?



Yes, you always get full resolution, with the exception of 3D (which is "half resolution" to each eye). 1080p rear projection DLPs display 960x1080 pixels every 120th of a second. For any content 60hz (or less), the image shifts one pixel over and displays the "other" 960x1080 pixels, so that you end up with a full 1920x1080 pixels every 60th of a second. 3d is the only content that needs 120hz (so that you can get 60hz per eye), so it is therefore the only format where these displays can't display the full 1920x1080 pixels.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/18929272
> 
> 
> didnt ask u to choose the video displey ?wich one u choose ?i dont see dlp tv in the options to choose...its only red and green glass 3d tv ,3d ready tv and polarised glass tv...



You want to pick 3d ready TV. On the surface it's confusing, because you think that could mean any of todays 3d displays. But since there aren't yet any HDMI 1.4 video cards (that I'm aware of), the choices here are really in "old school" terms. 3d ready TV in PDVD lingo is checkerboard.


----------



## nyc3dwd60738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18929310
> 
> 
> You want to pick 3d ready TV. On the surface it's confusing, because you think that could mean any of todays 3d displays. But since there aren't yet any HDMI 1.4 video cards (that I'm aware of), the choices here are really in "old school" terms. 3d ready TV in PDVD lingo is checkerboard.



cool thnx


----------



## walford

AFAIK when you send 1080p/60 3D Checkerboard content to a 3D ready DLP TV the TV creates two new 1080p checkerboard frames; one from the "Black Checkers" only with the "Red checker" pixels blank and the second new 1080p frame from the "red checkers" with the "black checker" pixels blank. Then the TV uses intrepolation to create the content for each of the blank/empty pixels from the surrounding pixels containing data.

The end result of this operations is sepaarate 1080p 60fps content for each eye that gets display with these 120Hz systems using wobluation.


----------



## audiopho




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mounta1n* /forum/post/18927297
> 
> 
> Recommended THX viewing distance for a 60" HDTV is 6.7ft, so you're definitely right in the ballpark. You could nudge the sofa forward a few inches if you wanted. Maximum viewing distance based on visual acuity for 1080p, meaning that you can actually resolve the detail in a 1080p picture, is 7.8ft for a 60" screen. If you are further back than that, then you wouldn't be able to make out all the detail and a 1080p Blu-ray would likely only look as good as an upconverted DVD.
> 
> 
> You can google "thx distance calculators" to see the recommended seating distances for other screen sizes, or figure out a recommended screen size for your seating distance.



I do realize that the THX or so-called expert recommendation distances were calculated based on 2d viewing.

Is the recommendation still good for 3d viewing?

I'm not sure any more...

I do feel like I want to shorten a viewing distance by at least 20-30% when watching 3d materials.

It's just my 2 cents...

Anyone?


----------



## khee mao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18929290
> 
> 
> Yes, you always get full resolution, with the exception of 3D (which is "half resolution" to each eye). 1080p rear projection DLPs display 960x1080 pixels every 120th of a second. For any content 60hz (or less), the image shifts one pixel over and displays the "other" 960x1080 pixels, so that you end up with a full 1920x1080 pixels every 60th of a second. 3d is the only content that needs 120hz (so that you can get 60hz per eye), so it is therefore the only format where these displays can't display the full 1920x1080 pixels.




sorry if I'm being thick, just trying to understand the process, but isn't 960x1080x120 or 1920x1080x60 fast enough to draw the fully realized image to each eye before the next unique frame, albeit in twice as many passes as usual, which 60hz full HD should allow for 24 fps source content?


for example, with wobulation of normal HD, every 120th second, we get half an image, then 120th of a second later, we get the other half = 1920x1080x60, right? even though the two halves aren't drawn simultaneously, it's so fast our brains can't see the seams. wouldn't 3D be the equivalent of 1920x1080x30L + 1920x1080x30R?


say each line represents 120th/sec:


101 L

101 R

010 L

010 R


= a full frame to each eye every 30th sec, which is still fast enough to trick our brains into seeing full resolution content, no?


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/18929367
> 
> 
> AFAIK ...



No, that's not correct. The "checkerboard frames" aren't full 1080p frames. They contain 960x1080 pixels. You can't interpolate up if you don't have the physical pixels to show the result. The DMD has 960 columns and 1080 rows. BUT, the key is, every other column is shifted vertically down (or up, depending on your POV) 1/2 pixel. If you imagine how the squares on a checkerboard would be if you rotated it 45°, that is how the pixels are arranged on the DMD (each column of squares, now oriented more like a diamonds, "fits" into the previous column because they are offset in height by 1/2 of a square). But all those pixels are all "red" checkerboards. It's not until the wobulation mirror shifts and projects those pixels over 1/2 a pixel that the "black" squares get painted. The projected pixels actually overlap each other, as opposed to an LCD that has space between the pixels (which is why DLP doesn't have the screen door effect). So when you project those 960x1080 pixels, then shift the image sideways and project the NEXT 960x1080 pixels, so that the center of those pixels aligns with where the intersections of the previously projected pixels where (essentially filling in in between them, but in an overlapping way) you end up with 1920x1080 pixels painted. Each projection happens in 1/120th of a second, so it takes 1/60th of a second to paint an entire 1920x1080 frame. The glasses are timed with the mirror, so that one eye sees the first paint, and the other eye sees the second paint.


When a 1920x1080 frame packed 3d frame is converted to checkerboard, that's exactly what they do: in the first of the two packed images they mark every other pixel, like the black squares on a checkerboard, and discard them. Gone. The other frame in that pair gets the red squares deleted. They are then combined into one frame: the red pixels from one, and the black pixels from the other, and that is sent to the TV as a 1920x1080x60hz signal. The TV then displays it just like it would any other 1080p signal: it splits it up into two halves (the red squares and the black squares), then the process above displays them. The end result is one eye seeing the red squares (at 60hz) and the other eye sees the black squares at 60hz. Each set, or sub-frame, is half of the pixels of a "normal" 1080p frame. Because that's all the physical pixels it has.


----------



## audiopho




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pajer* /forum/post/18924619
> 
> 
> got the starter kit hooked up ran it through my existing yamaha 6090 receiver which is only hdmi 1.2a. 3d video came through ok from directv receiver and ps3 but not the audio, had to run both sources directy through adapter and both were good. which is why i picked up a pioneer 1020 1.4 receiver, unless i want to run optical audio to yamaha receiver. i hooked sony 3d 570 blu ray player directly to tv and played the disney blu-ray that came with the starter kit and all i can say is awesome quality.
> 
> 
> the directv 3d channels were mixed results at best. pretty disappointed with quality. the 3d download demos of the ps3 games were pretty good quality. the bigger problem is wife was getting a headache and really dizzy from watching 3d. so i may have to forego 3d or get a divorce. decisions, decisions!



Give her a couple Advil's prior to a 3d show.

If that doesn't work then find yourself a 3d lawyer or you may end up foregoing both her and your 3d hardware altogether.









Just kidding, of course.

Many people feel the same way she does but the more they watch the less it becomes.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *khee mao* /forum/post/18929538
> 
> 
> sorry if I'm being thick, just trying to understand the process ... wouldn't 3D be the equivalent of 1920x1080x30L + 1920x1080x30R?
> 
> 
> say each line represents 120th/sec:
> 
> 
> 101 L
> 
> 101 R
> 
> 010 L
> 
> 010 R
> 
> 
> = a full frame to each eye every 30th sec, which is still fast enough to trick our brains into seeing full resolution content, no?



I don't know if my last reply to walford helps, but to answer your specific question, yes, a DLP is technically capable of doing a full 1920x1080x30 per eye. In fact, any typical 1080p display that can take a 1080p input at 60hz could do that. We could have had "3d" a long tim ago just by taking a standard 1920x1080x60hz input, and take every other frame for the left eye, and the others for the right, and just time the glasses for 30hz. The only problem is, 30hz is too slow. It would be miserable trying to watch it.


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18929567
> 
> 
> No, that's not correct. The "checkerboard frames" aren't full 1080p frames. They contain 960x1080 pixels. You can't interpolate up if you don't have the physical pixels to show the result. The DMD has 960 columns and 1080 rows. BUT, the key is, every other column is shifted vertically down (or up, depending on your POV) 1/2 pixel. If you imagine how the squares on a checkerboard would be if you rotated it 45°, that is how the pixels are arranged on the DMD (each column of squares, now oriented more like a diamonds, "fits" into the previous column because they are offset in height by 1/2 of a square). But all those pixels are all "red" checkerboards. It's not until the wobulation mirror shifts and projects those pixels over 1/2 a pixel that the "black" squares get painted. The projected pixels actually overlap each other, as opposed to an LCD that has space between the pixels (which is why DLP doesn't have the screen door effect). So when you project those 960x1080 pixels, then shift the image sideways and project the NEXT 960x1080 pixels, so that the center of those pixels aligns with where the intersections of the previously projected pixels where (essentially filling in in between them, but in an overlapping way) you end up with 1920x1080 pixels painted. Each projection happens in 1/120th of a second, so it takes 1/60th of a second to paint an entire 1920x1080 frame. The glasses are timed with the mirror, so that one eye sees the first paint, and the other eye sees the second paint.
> 
> 
> When a 1920x1080 frame packed 3d frame is converted to checkerboard, that's exactly what they do: in the first of the two packed images they mark every other pixel, like the black squares on a checkerboard, and discard them. Gone. The other frame in that pair gets the red squares deleted. They are then combined into one frame: the red pixels from one, and the black pixels from the other, and that is sent to the TV as a 1920x1080x60hz signal. The TV then displays it just like it would any other 1080p signal: it splits it up into two halves (the red squares and the black squares), then the process above displays them. The end result is one eye seeing the red squares (at 60hz) and the other eye sees the black squares at 60hz. Each set, or sub-frame, is half of the pixels of a "normal" 1080p frame. Because that's all the physical pixels it has.



However Mits does it, the result is the same 1080p 3D you get with LCD or plasma. I can sit 6' away from my 65" and see "perfect" 3D detail. I have gone to BB and have never seen as good detail, much less better.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmalter0* /forum/post/18929622
> 
> 
> However Mits does it, the result is the same 1080p 3D you get with LCD or plasma.



It may appear that way, but each eye really is seeing less resolution. But the flip side of that is, DLP has MUCH faster response than LCD or even plasma. So while DLP may have less resolution in 3d mode, it is also going to inherently have less ghosting. In fact, NO ghosting that is the result of the display. It's the glasses that are the weak link when it comes to DLP.


Anyway, I know my previous post may have been hard to follow. I found a link that describes it much better, and with pictures.: http://www.eetimes.com/design/other/...hm-An-overview


----------



## ucla tut

Paul's TV in Southern California has around 50 starter packs in their warehouse. I went to the La Habra store today, ordered, and paid for mine. It will be shipped to the La Habra store for me to pick up on Friday. They get deliveries from their warehouse on Mondays and Fridays. I don't know if they have them in their Michigan or Mass. stores. I don't know if they will take phone orders and/or ship, but it is worth a try. They are open for another hour and 15 minutes.


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cesar2010* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Just wondering has anyone had the chance of testing to see if the Rechargeable Samsung SSG-2200AR glasses work with the kit?



Yes someone with the mitsu emitter and samsung2200AR has confirmed they work!!


This is great news for mitsu and sanding dlp owners alike using the mitsu (made by samsung) emitter.


Now whether you got the mitsu starter kit with 2 pair of 2100AB included or just got the emitter separately you can get the 2200AR to work with it.


I got emitter for $48 plus tax and shipping the sam starter kit with 2 pair of 2100AB and a movie for $175 and now will get 2 pair of 2200AR. Then just need the damn mitsu converter/adapter sold by tru3d.com which is modified to work with samsung dlp, but it's back on pre order. That an they charge $100 for the mod. But ppl are workinng out the details in doing it yourself which isn't hard but requires access to a mitsu dlp to program the geffen hdmibwith the mitsu edid.


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Yes they work, they are the exact same glasses as In the Mits starter pack.



Wrong. The mits starter pack comes with 2100AB (battery powered). While the 2200AR are rechargeable, but yes they also work with the mitsu branded emitter.


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Quatre* /forum/post/18930478
> 
> 
> Wrong. The mits starter pack comes with 2100AB (battery powered). While the 2200AR are rechargeable, but yes they also work with the mitsu branded emitter.




Someone already beat you to It. But whatever.


----------



## steelers1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mounta1n* /forum/post/18927297
> 
> 
> Recommended THX viewing distance for a 60" HDTV is 6.7ft, so you're definitely right in the ballpark. You could nudge the sofa forward a few inches if you wanted. Maximum viewing distance based on visual acuity for 1080p, meaning that you can actually resolve the detail in a 1080p picture, is 7.8ft for a 60" screen. If you are further back than that, then you wouldn't be able to make out all the detail and a 1080p Blu-ray would likely only look as good as an upconverted DVD.
> 
> 
> You can google "thx distance calculators" to see the recommended seating distances for other screen sizes, or figure out a recommended screen size for your seating distance.



i found this interesting. http://www.practical-home-theater-gu...-distance.html


----------



## erg0010

Just for grins, I hooked up our living room HTPC to our WD73736 (also living room) using an HDMI cable. Turned on 3D mode in the TV. The HTPC is loaded with Cyberlink Ultra 3d. I ran the Cyberlink 3d Advisor, everything "passed" except the Mits. Are we going to have to run EVERY 3D source through a Mits 3D adapter?


In the family room, we have an identical HTPC hooked to a WD82837. That TV will also have Directv DVR, PS3, Panny 350 as well as the HTPC feeding 3D material. Boggles the mind how I am going to get this to work. From earlier posts I thought I understood that only the DVR (and maybe the PS3)would have to go through the Mits adapter. I have not tried the 3D Advisor on this set, yet.


The only thing I am sure of is that the Panny 350 will work okay without the adapter. I put the 3D demo disc in and the 82837 showed a 3D image just fine.


As I posted earlier, I have the Samsung starter kit. Just waiting for the Mits adapter.


----------



## dreaux




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18928955
> 
> 
> Well, a full review is going to have to wait until I have some real 3d content. I don't have any yet, so I just tested using the PDVD10 "sim3d" feature that is supposed to give a 3d effect to 2d. I tested using the dvd that happened to be in the HTPC (which was some lame free DVD we got a couple months ago when we adopted these puppies about how to train them). Not a good test, but I didn't have a lot of time. I can confirm that: PDVD10 does "work" (it outputs checkerboard properly), Sim3d works (not "great" 3d, maybe not worth much more than novelty, but it works better than I expected), and the rechargeable Samsung glasses work with the Mits emitter. For some reason I don't get any audio with PDVD10, but I'm sure that's an issue on my system I need to work out (I do get audio with TMT 3 though, which is puzzling). I also discovered that 3d is going to be a mostly nighttime event. There's a window just to the right of my TV, which faces west so it's pretty bright in the early evening. It's in your peripheral vision when watching TV. With the 3d glasses on, you don't see any flicker on the TV, but with the bright window being in the (light sensitive) peripheral vision of just one eye, that window appears to constantly flicker. Also, strangely, the glasses continues working after the TV turned off. What they were sync'd to is a mystery to me. And we need to find a remote shortcut for 3d mode. Wonder if there's a discrete code for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, there's a couple of implications. DirecTV doesn't work through a 1.3 reciever. So if you want to process audio/video through a receiver, that's going to be dependent on either DirecTV relaxing that requirement, or the adapter woking "through" an AVR (seeing the Mits TV EDID). The other issues as it pertains to the PS3 are: I'm skeptical of the PS3 working completely with the adapter through a 1.3 AVR on 3d blu-ray content, and I'm leary about how long the "plug the adapter in once" hack will work. Will the PS3 remember always that after setting changes? Firmware updates? Will Sony decide to change that? If the adapter DOESN'T work if there's a 1.3 AVR between it and the TV, these become important questions.



You are sure Directv will not work through a HDMI 1.3 receiver? That's all I got and I really can not afford a new 1.4 receiver.


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

anybody wants to sell me xpand x 102 used ,cheap for like 50$ plus s&h


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

i want to play avatar till my starter kit arives (looks like mid august its gonna ship )


----------



## bori




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/18930731
> 
> 
> i want to play avatar till my starter kit arives (looks like mid august its gonna ship )



What 3d glasses work with the avatar game without the adapter and work well with the Mits adapter?


----------



## nyc3dwd60738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bori* /forum/post/18930742
> 
> 
> What 3d glasses work with the avatar game without the adapter and work well with the Mits adapter?



xpand x102


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

cmon guys somebody who have spare x102 sell them to me or even better donate them to me ,i need them till my starter kit arrives


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bori* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> What 3d glasses work with the avatar game without the adapter and work well with the Mits adapter?



I was able to play the avatar game on the 360 in 3D on a DLP since it came out 6+ months ago using the samsung SSG1000 active 3d glasses which comes with an emitter.


I might sell them with box and everything they came with in mint condition for $100 if anyone is interested.


They work on any Mitsubishi dlp, come with emitter, and IMO look cooler then the 2100 or 2200's. This would be a good alternative to the x102's


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> cmon guys somebody who have spare x102 sell them to me or even better donate them to me ,i need them till my starter kit arrives



Noone is going to give you $150 glasses for $50 let alone free.


I paid $200 for my SSG1000's which come with emitter sonid sell then for $100 and you can't even find them anywhere at all so they are super rare.


Just try to search the entire internet for a pair of ssg1000's. You will see them in amazon and a couple places but nine available and none coming with not many made so they are cult status collectible.


----------



## illthreat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18928955
> 
> 
> 
> The other issues as it pertains to the PS3 are: I'm skeptical of the PS3 working completely with the adapter through a 1.3 AVR on 3d blu-ray content



I see. Well it cannot be anything BUT 1.3 right? It's limited because of it's hardware. If the PS3 will play 3D BluRay then it would have to be in it's current flavor, no?




> Quote:
> and I'm leary about how long the "plug the adapter in once" hack will work. Will the PS3 remember always that after setting changes?



LOL.. it's not a hack.. The PS3 only detects via Auto Detect right now. I'm guessing it's because they don't want 13 year olds enabling 3D on a non 3D display. Otherwise, I've had no issues with the PS3 "forgetting" that I have a 3D Display.




> Quote:
> Firmware updates? Will Sony decide to change that? If the adapter DOESN'T work if there's a 1.3 AVR between it and the TV, these become important questions.




Why would Sony take an already limited market (3D TV owners) and make it even more limited by requiring 1.4 that their own PlayStation doesn't support?


I don't see them taking a step backward in this area. I've chatted with a few fine folks over this the last few weeks with Sony Ideas group. They can only do so much due to limitations of the chip. Firmware can only take it so far and I don't think they would further handicap the system. Their flagship system. The vessel that could bridge the gap closer between 3DTV in everyone's home in 3 years.


I hear you though and I'm glad that I'm not sharing those same concerns.







I'd rather see the glass half full at the moment while I sip on 3D gaming.


Food for thought:



> Quote:
> Sony told us that despite the older hardware in the console, which was launched before even the HDMI 1.3 standard was available, the PS3 would have no problem delivering full HD 3D.
> 
> 
> Hocking backed up that claim with the following quote: "The [June] upgrade basically makes every PlayStation 3 HDMI 1.4 compatible--that's the standard that governs 3D displays."


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wstaffor* /forum/post/18926645
> 
> 
> [snip]... I don't know, why are you so completely certain when noone has actually done it yet? ...[snip]



I don't know...logic?


The Mits uses the same IR code as the 2100AB. The 2100AB uses the same IR code as the 2100AR. Therefore, the Mits uses the same IR code as the 2100AR and 2100AB.


I remain 100% sure.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18929648
> 
> 
> It may appear that way, but each eye really is seeing less resolution. But the flip side of that is, DLP has MUCH faster response than LCD or even plasma. So while DLP may have less resolution in 3d mode, it is also going to inherently have less ghosting. In fact, NO ghosting that is the result of the display. It's the glasses that are the weak link when it comes to DLP.
> 
> 
> Anyway, I know my previous post may have been hard to follow. I found a link that describes it much better, and with pictures.: http://www.eetimes.com/design/other/...hm-An-overview



Where does Mitsubishi's _Smooth 120hz_ fit into this?


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dreaux* /forum/post/18930700
> 
> 
> You are sure Directv will not work through a HDMI 1.3 receiver? That's all I got and I really can not afford a new 1.4 receiver.



Well, I know DirecTV SAYS their DVR must be connected directly to a 3d TV for it to work, and I know know that every post I've seen where people have tested it has said it doesn't work when they try. There may be some exceptions, but I haven't yet seen any posted (with the exception of last week when it worked for a couple days).



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *illthreat* /forum/post/18930911
> 
> 
> I see. Well it cannot be anything BUT 1.3 right? It's limited because of it's hardware. If the PS3 will play 3D BluRay then it would have to be in it's current flavor, no?



Well, no, because they have updated the PS3 to be able to be capable of _some_ 1.4 functions, such as understanding the headers that say whether or not a TV is 3d, and outputting full resolution frame-packed 3d. It's not 1.4, because there are some hardware limitations that it'll never be able to work around (for things like ethernet over hdmi). I don't know what format the games are in, but there's a chance that the AVRs may not understand frame packed data, and probably a better one that they won't be able to extract HD audio out of it.



> Quote:
> LOL.. it's not a hack.. The PS3 only detects via Auto Detect right now. I'm guessing it's because they don't want 13 year olds enabling 3D on a non 3D display. Otherwise, I've had no issues with the PS3 "forgetting" that I have a 3D Display.



I know, I just didn't know what else to call it. We'll say it's a workaround. But regardless, why require it in the first place? There's no harm in it, it's not like it's going to make anyone blind. It just makes the picture a little fuzzy. I'm just saying, it _could_ happen, even if it's just a case of the PS3 :forgetting" every time it gets a firmware update.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Augerhandle* /forum/post/18931026
> 
> 
> Where does Mitsubishi's _Smooth 120hz_ fit into this?



It's just image processing. Rear projection 1080p DLPs always run at 120hz on the sub-frame level (or 60hz full frames). Smooth120 is just some kind of inter-frame interpolation that attempts to smooth out high motion video.


----------



## rsnyder005

I have the directv receiver going into an Optoma 1.3 switch and then to the Mits adapter and everything works great-no problems


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18931042
> 
> 
> [snip]...
> 
> 
> It's just image processing. Rear projection 1080p DLPs always run at 120hz on the sub-frame level (or 60hz full frames). Smooth120 is just some kind of inter-frame interpolation that attempts to smooth out high motion video.



If the DLP chip is already maxxed out in 2d, how can it do inter-frame interpolation?


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18929648
> 
> 
> It may appear that way, but each eye really is seeing less resolution. But the flip side of that is, DLP has MUCH faster response than LCD or even plasma. So while DLP may have less resolution in 3d mode, it is also going to inherently have less ghosting. In fact, NO ghosting that is the result of the display. It's the glasses that are the weak link when it comes to DLP.
> 
> 
> Anyway, I know my previous post may have been hard to follow. I found a link that describes it much better, and with pictures.: http://www.eetimes.com/design/other/...hm-An-overview



That eetimes article was written in February 2007 about the "third generation" DLP chip. The current DLP chip "darkchip 4" was introduced in September 2007. Moreover, I can see flawless 3D 6' from my 65" Mits, which is supposed to be only possible with true 1080p, http://www.practical-home-theater-gu...-distance.html .


----------



## nyc3dwd60738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Quatre* /forum/post/18930891
> 
> 
> Noone is going to give you $150 glasses for $50 let alone free.
> 
> 
> I paid $200 for my SSG1000's which come with emitter sonid sell then for $100 and you can't even find them anywhere at all so they are super rare.
> 
> 
> Just try to search the entire internet for a pair of ssg1000's. You will see them in amazon and a couple places but nine available and none coming with not many made so they are cult status collectible.



Im trying to get temporary xpand x102 glasses not ssg1000! Xpandx102 cost online NEW FOR 90-100$. Ill pay 50$ and thats good deal since we all know xpand x 102 wont work with the glasses from the 3dc-1000. So in pne work u eather sell thrm or throw thwm in garbige . And yea u could have got them for 200 but who cares i see how much they worth now . Almost nothing . They not worth nothing to us who gonna use the the adapter. I explain before i want to buy becouse im unpationed till my starterkit comes !


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/18931177
> 
> 
> Im trying to get temporary xpand x102 glasses not ssg1000! Xpandx102 cost online NEW FOR 90-100$. Ill pay 50$ and thats good deal since we all know xpand x 102 wont work with the glasses from the 3dc-1000. So in pne work u eather sell thrm or throw thwm in garbige . And yea u could have got them for 200 but who cares i see how much they worth now . Almost nothing . They not worth nothing to us who gonna use the the adapter. I explain before i want to buy becouse im unpationed till my starterkit comes !



If you can buy them new online for $90-100, I recommend that you buy them because that is the cheapest you will find them.


----------



## Hermanos87




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/18931177
> 
> 
> Im trying to get temporary xpand x102 glasses not ssg1000! Xpandx102 cost online NEW FOR 90-100$. Ill pay 50$ and thats good deal since we all know xpand x 102 wont work with the glasses from the 3dc-1000. So in pne work u eather sell thrm or throw thwm in garbige . And yea u could have got them for 200 but who cares i see how much they worth now . Almost nothing . They not worth nothing to us who gonna use the the adapter. I explain before i want to buy becouse im unpationed till my starterkit comes !



I sold my x102s for $85 dollars a pair I had 2, so you're crazy if you think the only other option besides giving them to you is to throw them away lmao, people will not give you the time of day just list them on amazon if they don't need them anymore.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Augerhandle* /forum/post/18931142
> 
> 
> If the DLP chip is already maxxed out in 2d, how can it do inter-frame interpolation?



The framerate of the display is 1920x1080x60fps. But there is no 2d content at that resolution. It's generally either 24fps or 30fps (only 720p is 60fps).


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmalter0* /forum/post/18931146
> 
> 
> That eetimes article was written in February 2007 about the "third generation" DLP chip. The current DLP chip "darkchip 4" was introduced in September 2007.



From a operational perspective, nothing changed to the darkchip 4. All it did was increase contrast levels (by a fair amount, IIRC).


> Quote:
> Moreover, I can see flawless 3D 6' from my 65" Mits, which is supposed to be only possible with true 1080p



Yes, DLPs can provide good 3d images, even though they are only showing half the resolution per eye. Keep in mind that "half the resolution" is still more pixels than 720p, and 720p can look quite good too. But if you don't believe me, go ahead, count the pixels.


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18931321
> 
> 
> Yes, DLPs can provide good 3d images, even though they are only showing half the resolution per eye. Keep in mind that "half the resolution" is still more pixels than 720p, and 720p can look quite good too. But if you don't believe me, go ahead, count the pixels.



That's the point--I can't see the pixels at distances where you should see them if wasn't 1080p. Regardless, I have compared my Mits 65737 closely to a Panny at BB, and the Mits' 3D fine detail is every bit as good--and I feel very happy with my choice.


----------



## JamesN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmalter0* /forum/post/18931485
> 
> 
> That's the point--I can't see the pixels at distances where you should see them if wasn't 1080p. Regardless, I have compared my Mits 65737 closely to a Panny at BB, and the Mits' 3D fine detail is every bit as good--and I feel very happy with my choice.



I have the same tv (Mits 65737) and I am also very pleased with the detail levels in 3D mode. However, it's not perfect, and artifacts of the checkerboard implementation can be seen if one looks hard enough.


For example, in the _Grand Canyon Adventure_ disc, there is a shot with some red rock formations on either side of the frame that then gets flooded and turns into a stream. If you look closely at the red rocks in 2D mode, you can see very finely detailed stratum (thin lines delineating the rock layers). In 3D mode, the stratum is still visible but is slightly blurred and less detailed.


Similarly, on small text (such as the end credits on _Grand Canyon Adventure_) in 3D mode one can observe some blockiness that is not evident in 2D mode.


Again, I'm not trying to disparage this particular tv or DLP RPTVs in general. I own one and I am comfortable that I made the correct choice for my particular needs. But there *is* some _very minor_ loss of perceived detail in 3D mode as a result of the checkerboard implementation. In my particular situation it was a worthwhile trade-off for all of the positive attributes of DLP (price, size, and lack of ghosting).


----------



## walford




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dreaux* /forum/post/18930700
> 
> 
> You are sure Directv will not work through a HDMI 1.3 receiver? That's all I got and I really can not afford a new 1.4 receiver.



The DirectTV STBs do not have HDMI 1. transmitter chips. They will output 3D content in HDMI 1.4a formats to any device whose EDID data indentifies the device as one of the models listed in the full liste avaialble from the following link.

http://www.directv.com/DTVAPP/conten...ccb0c2&mscbg=0 


If you have a receiver that will not pass through the EDIID data from a qualifiying TV then you need to use a unit such as the Gefen EDID detective between the direcTV STB and the receiver.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18931321
> 
> 
> The framerate of the display is 1920x1080x60fps. But there is no 2d content at that resolution. It's generally either 24fps or 30fps ...[snip]



So, it doubles the frame rate of the (30fps) source, interpolating frames?


----------



## walford

The frame rate of the the 3D ready DLPs is 1080p/120 not 1080p/60. Each of the actual 1080p frames displayed is actully created in two parts using wobulation of the actual DMP chip being used so you might say the refresh rate is 1080p/240

The separate left and right full 1080p frames are created by splitting apart the incoming 10980p/60 checkerboard 3D frame into two frames and then use interpolating to complete crate the content for the missing pixels.


----------



## JamesN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/18931890
> 
> 
> The frame rate of the the 3D ready DLPs is 1080p/120 not 1080p/60. Each of the actual 1080p frames displayed is actully created in two parts using wobulation of the actual DMP chip being used so you might say the refresh rate is 1080p/240
> 
> The separate left and right full 1080p frames are created by splitting apart the incoming 10980p/60 checkerboard 3D frame into two frames and then use interpolating to complete crate the content for the missing pixels.



I have never seen any official DLP documentation (Mitsubishi or Texas Instruments) that indicates that interpolation is used on checkerboard 3D input. Can you cite any links that support your claim?


----------



## steelers1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/18931177
> 
> 
> Im trying to get temporary xpand x102 glasses not ssg1000! Xpandx102 cost online NEW FOR 90-100$. Ill pay 50$ and thats good deal since we all know xpand x 102 wont work with the glasses from the 3dc-1000. So in pne work u eather sell thrm or throw thwm in garbige . And yea u could have got them for 200 but who cares i see how much they worth now . Almost nothing . They not worth nothing to us who gonna use the the adapter. I explain before i want to buy becouse im unpationed till my starterkit comes !



what about the people who has or is getting the the adaptor only?


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JamesN* /forum/post/18931637
> 
> 
> Again, I'm not trying to disparage this particular tv or DLP RPTVs in general. I own one and I am comfortable that I made the correct choice for my particular needs.



And neither am I. Although I would have loved to have 3d "just work", I'm still quite happy that this TV that has been serving me well can be "upgraded" to the new 3d standards with just a converter, while others have to buy a new TV. These are great sets that don't get the attention they deserve. But every technology has it's own set of pros and cons, and lower 3d resolution compared to the new displays is one of them. The fact that it is hard to notice is a kudo to their smoothpicture technology. Since the individual pixels actually overlap each other (impossible to do with other current technologies), you don't notice the missing pixels very easily. It will resolve less detail in 3d mode, but that's not a bad trade-off considering that other 2 year old TVs won't resolve _anything_ in 3d.











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Augerhandle* /forum/post/18931657
> 
> 
> So, it doubles the frame rate of the (30fps) source, interpolating frames?



I don't know the details of exactly what Smooth120 does to a signal, but anything that comes in to the set at anything less than 60fps will have to be raised up to that framerate. It may even still work with a 60hz, if it can detect the cadence like inverse telecine, then add interpolated frames. But on the display side, _everything_ is running at 120 sub-frames per second. The wobulation mirror is always running at 60hz.


----------



## Hermanos87




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steelers1* /forum/post/18931948
> 
> 
> what about the people who has or is getting the the adaptor only?



Just the adapter should work fine with the Xpandx102s, the tv may just need to be set to 3D mode 2, which reverses the eyes.


----------



## wstaffor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Augerhandle* /forum/post/18930973
> 
> 
> I don't know...logic?
> 
> 
> The Mits uses the same IR code as the 2100AB. The 2100AB uses the same IR code as the 2100AR. Therefore, the Mits uses the same IR code as the 2100AR and 2100AB.
> 
> 
> I remain 100% sure.



It's easy to remain 100% sure after someone in the other thread confirmed it yesterday.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/18931890
> 
> 
> The frame rate of the the 3D ready DLPs is 1080p/120 not 1080p/60. Each of the actual 1080p frames displayed is actully created in two parts using wobulation of the actual DMP chip being used so you might say the refresh rate is 1080p/240



No, that's not correct. I'll tell you what: pull the back of your TV off, put a meter on the optical actuator. After you find that it's operating at 60hz, explain how a full 1920x1080 pixels are painted in 1/120th of a second with a 960x1080 chip.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wstaffor* /forum/post/18932077
> 
> 
> It's easy to remain 100% sure after someone in the other thread confirmed it yesterday.



I was 100% sure before it was "confirmed". That's why I was incredulous at your 99% statement.










I would have answered sooner, but I was not available to read your comment and post a reply.


BTW, you should still be only 99% sure, because the other poster could be lying just to appease you.







(Not saying that I believe anyone would lie about it)


Anyway, I'm glad you got your confirmation.


Have a nice day.


----------



## wstaffor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Augerhandle* /forum/post/18932378
> 
> 
> I was 100% sure before it was "confirmed". That's why I was incredulous at your 99% statement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would have answered sooner, but I was not available to read your comment and post a reply.
> 
> 
> BTW, you should still be only 99% sure, because the other poster could be lying just to appease you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Not saying that I believe anyone would lie about it)
> 
> 
> Anyway, I'm glad you got your confirmation.
> 
> 
> Have a nice day.



You must have lots of friends.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18932126
> 
> 
> No, that's not correct. I'll tell you what: pull the back of your TV off, put a meter on the optical actuator. After you find that it's operating at 60hz, explain how a full 1920x1080 pixels are painted in 1/120th of a second with a 960x1080 chip.



I'm confused. Is the actuator running at 60Hz? I thought it was running at 120Hz (two subframes).


Also, everything I read about Smooth 120Hz says it doubles the frame rate to 120 Hz. Is that false advertising?


I see both sides of this discussion all the time. Where are the facts?


----------



## markrubin

move on please


----------



## khee mao

loving everything about the adapter but all the (automatic) flipping back and forth that occurs between my PS3, AVR, adapter, and TV everytime I switch PS3 3D demos.


it's been said both ways before, but my experience is that xpand 102s do _not_ work in conjunction with the Mits glasses.


----------



## Mounta1n




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *khee mao* /forum/post/18932853
> 
> 
> loving everything about the adapter but all the (automatic) flipping back and forth that occurs between my PS3, AVR, adapter, and TV everytime I switch PS3 3D demos.
> 
> 
> it's been said both ways before, but my experience is that xpand 102s do _not_ work in conjunction with the Mits glasses.



Question for you Khee, do you have setup arranged PS3 - AVR - adapter - TV?

and is your AVR 1.3 or 1.4? I'm figuring that if an AVR is set to passthru, it will probably work just fine that way, as long as you can get the PS3 to output the 3D data.


----------



## Hyabusha

Is It normal for the picture to turn greenish when turning on the 3D mode on my tv?


----------



## steelers1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hermanos87* /forum/post/18932070
> 
> 
> Just the adapter should work fine with the Xpandx102s, the tv may just need to be set to 3D mode 2, which reverses the eyes.



iam aware of that i was just pointing out to nyc3dwd60738 that there is people out there that only has the adaptor only. and the 102`s work fine with that. he is telling people that the 102`s are not worth much he wants some one to sale him the glasses for 50.00 or for free.


----------



## khee mao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mounta1n* /forum/post/18933012
> 
> 
> Question for you Khee, do you have setup arranged PS3 - AVR - adapter - TV?
> 
> and is your AVR 1.3 or 1.4? I'm figuring that if an AVR is set to passthru, it will probably work just fine that way, as long as you can get the PS3 to output the 3D data.



yep, PS3 -> AVR (1.4) -> adapter -> TV


no problems getting PS3 to play in 3D, but between exiting out of one demo and beginning the next, everything spazzes out for 10-15 seconds before settling down.


----------



## khee mao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/18933043
> 
> 
> Is It normal for the picture to turn greenish when turning on the 3D mode on my tv?




I believe so. mine does the same at least. I believe the display compensates for the brightness/tint changes that the glasses induce.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18932023
> 
> 
> The fact that it is hard to notice is a kudo to their smoothpicture technology. Since the individual pixels actually overlap each other (impossible to do with other current technologies), you don't notice the missing pixels very easily.



I won't prolong this debate, but thought I would throw in that my optoma glasses allow me to set them to L-R sync, or just L or just R sync. When in just L or just R, both eyes see the L frame or R frame.


The instructions don't tell you about this, it must be a technician tool, so it took me a minute to even realize what the glasses were doing in these modes. I did a pause of 3D video to see what would happen. The panny continues to produce very nice 3D during a pause.


From a normal viewing distance, I don't notice loss of detail or flicker when viewing just the L or just the R frame with both eyes. I also don't notice a decrease in brightness. I guess two eyes viewing every other frame works out about the same as one eye on one frame and the other eye on the next frame in terms of brightness sensitivity.


What I do notice is a slight change in some colors for the L frames versus the R frames. I don't know if that is an artifact of the TV or of the stereoptic camera.


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *khee mao* /forum/post/18933157
> 
> 
> I believe so. mine does the same at least. I believe the display compensates for the brightness/tint changes that the glasses induce.



Ok thx, I thought something was wrong with my tv.


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *khee mao* /forum/post/18933157
> 
> 
> I believe so. mine does the same at least. I believe the display compensates for the brightness/tint changes that the glasses induce.



Mine too.

But it looks fine in 3D.


----------



## jjknatl

 http://www.hdtvsupply.com/4x2-hdmi-matrix-switch.html 


interesting product for those who might want to route 2D D* content around the mits adapter. I haven't tried it so don't know if it will work, but specs suggest it might. appears to be a switch/splitter and EDID spoofer all in one.


----------



## NSX1992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/18931177
> 
> 
> Im trying to get temporary xpand x102 glasses not ssg1000! Xpandx102 cost online NEW FOR 90-100$. Ill pay 50$ and thats good deal since we all know xpand x 102 wont work with the glasses from the 3dc-1000. So in pne work u eather sell thrm or throw thwm in garbige . And yea u could have got them for 200 but who cares i see how much they worth now . Almost nothing . They not worth nothing to us who gonna use the the adapter. I explain before i want to buy becouse im unpationed till my starterkit comes !



nyc3dwd60738 would you quit misleading the readers. I said before the 102s work with the Mits glasses and the emitter at the same time in standard mode. It is a reasonable way to obtain extra glasses ($109) without buying another starter kit.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Quatre* /forum/post/18930471
> 
> 
> But ppl are workinng out the details in doing it yourself which isn't hard but requires access to a mitsu dlp to program the geffen hdmibwith the mitsu edid.



It is at least conceivable that the mits adapter's EDID might work for the TV requirement of the mits adapter. So, one could try programming the detective with the mits adapter's EDID, then feed the mits adpater output to the programmed detective. Might avoid the need to get the EDID from a compatible TV.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NSX1992* /forum/post/18933453
> 
> 
> nyc3dwd60738 would you quit misleading the readers. I said before the 102s work with the Mits glasses and the emitter at the same time in standard mode. It is a reasonable way to obtain extra glasses ($109) without buying another starter kit.



That may be content or source specific. x102s require reverse for my bluray 3D content and others have said the same.


I've heard others also say PS3 checkerboard games allow the x102 to be used while in standard. I don't know why that would be the case but I won't dispute it. Were you using a PS3 checkerboard game with the x102? Try a different 3D source and see if standard still works.


----------



## khee mao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NSX1992* /forum/post/18933453
> 
> 
> nyc3dwd60738 would you quit misleading the readers. I said before the 102s work with the Mits glasses and the emitter at the same time in standard mode. It is a reasonable way to obtain extra glasses ($109) without buying another starter kit.




I haven't been able to use the 102s with the Mits glasses. the 102s seem to always stay reversed from the others.


----------



## rsnyder005

I have a Mits 73835 and the starter kit seems to work fine for both directv and blu-ray but does putting the tv in 3-D mode increase the light output automatically w/o using the menu? A 'dark ' SCREEN SEEMS TO TAKE ON A MORE TINT BLUE WITH THE 3d MODE ACTIVATED-PICTURE QUALITY seems fine, however and all flesh tones,etc seem fine.


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/18933043
> 
> 
> Is It normal for the picture to turn greenish when turning on the 3D mode on my tv?



My 73735 does it also.


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rad* /forum/post/18933754
> 
> 
> My 73735 does it also.



Ok, so once and for all Its normal for the tv's picture to change color/brightness when you turn on 3D mode?


And everyone's ok with It?


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/18933912
> 
> 
> Ok, so once and for all Its normal for the tv's picture to change color/brightness when you turn on 3D mode?
> 
> 
> And everyone's ok with It?



Sure! It's only the 3D mode.

Once I put on the glasses and start watching 3D, the PQ seems fine.


----------



## Hermanos87




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NSX1992* /forum/post/18933453
> 
> 
> nyc3dwd60738 would you quit misleading the readers. I said before the 102s work with the Mits glasses and the emitter at the same time in standard mode. It is a reasonable way to obtain extra glasses ($109) without buying another starter kit.



This is only partially true, some of the content requires requires the TV to be on 3d mode 2 in order for the xpandx102s to work thus making the mits glasses not work, some of the content will work in mode 1 and both types of glasses will work. Its about 50/50


----------



## id10tech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/18933912
> 
> 
> Ok, so once and for all Its normal for the tv's picture to change color/brightness when you turn on 3D mode?
> 
> 
> And everyone's ok with It?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/18933932
> 
> 
> Sure! It's only the 3D mode.
> 
> Once I put on the glasses and start watching 3D, the PQ seems fine.



I have the WD-65C9 and I'm sure it's the same for all other models. Once you put on the glasses all is normal.


If you think that the X102 are worth $50 then find someone who will sell them to you for that. I wouldn't do it since I paid $150 for mine a few months ago. But for you to explain that they are worthless now is wrong.


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18933476
> 
> 
> It is at least conceivable that the mits adapter's EDID might work for the TV requirement of the mits adapter. So, one could try programming the detective with the mits adapter's EDID, then feed the mits adpater output to the programmed detective. Might avoid the need to get the EDID from a compatible TV.



good thinking outside the box there. there is a guy on the tru3d.com adapter for sam dlp thread who is making them and selling them cheaper then tru3d but I will mention this idea. he has the mitsu tv though already and was just waiting to test it on someones sam dlp.


----------



## advocate2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hermanos87* /forum/post/18934149
> 
> 
> This is only partially true, some of the content requires requires the TV to be on 3d mode 2 in order for the xpandx102s to work thus making the mits glasses not work, some of the content will work in mode 1 and both types of glasses will work. Its about 50/50



I agree that content might make a difference. With D*, for instance, the Mits glasses are standard while the 102's need reversed. In Avatar, the Game for PS3, the game software allows you to set the sync order. Has anyone tried using the game to set sync order and then determine if the Mits glasses and 102's work together?


I, too, am getting a little tired of nyc trying to convince us that we should sell him our 102's cheap because they aren't worth anything.


----------



## nyc3dwd60738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *advocate2* /forum/post/18934505
> 
> 
> I agree that content might make a difference. With D*, for instance, the Mits glasses are standard while the 102's need reversed. In Avatar, the Game for PS3, the game software allows you to set the sync order. Has anyone tried using the game to set sync order and then determine if the Mits glasses and 102's work together?
> 
> 
> I, too, am getting a little tired of nyc trying to convince us that we should sell him our 102's cheap because they aren't worth anything.



its proven they dont work together ..u guys shoul do some research


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/18934951
> 
> 
> its proven they dont work together ..u guys shoul do some research


----------



## Thirdshifter

Abt.com are now shipping the adapters. Got my tracking number yesterday. Should be in by thursday i think.


By adapter, I mean JUST the Adapter for $99, not the $400 starter pack.


----------



## Darin

They must have recieved a partial shipment, because mine is still on b/o.


----------



## bigz

I have the 65833 and using the the Mitsubishi Starter Pack. Does anyone find that the picture is not very bright in 3D mode. It is not even close to what it is in 2D mode. Can that be fixed somehow?


----------



## walford

If you can not turn up the brightness high enough on the TV to compensate for the light loss in the glases maybe the bulb in your TV is near the end of it's usefull life.


----------



## werty7777

Been lurking for a while and read this and plenty other threads on this forum as well as HTF. I just have one question, can someone post which glasses work with the adapter, adapter w/emitter, the whole starter pack and without anything. I know I'm not the only one reading that is lost with all the back and forth. If someone does this maybe a mod could sticky it to the top? Just a thought. Thanks!


----------



## dreaux




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/18931638
> 
> 
> The DirectTV STBs do not have HDMI 1. transmitter chips. They will output 3D content in HDMI 1.4a formats to any device whose EDID data indentifies the device as one of the models listed in the full liste avaialble from the following link.
> 
> http://www.directv.com/DTVAPP/conten...ccb0c2&mscbg=0
> 
> 
> If you have a receiver that will not pass through the EDIID data from a qualifiying TV then you need to use a unit such as the Gefen EDID detective between the direcTV STB and the receiver.



Well you lost me at EDIID data. I have the latest Directv receiver which is showing 3D and a Mits 3D tv. I have the starter kit and it works intermittently but not in a real way.

I have a Sony HDMI 1.3 AV receiver and it looks like I will now have to dish out some more money for a 1.4 3D ready AV receiver...which is not going to be cheap because I want one with 6 HMDI inputs.

Can you explain further what Gefen EDID detective is and what it does?


----------



## khee mao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *werty7777* /forum/post/18935452
> 
> 
> Been lurking for a while and read this and plenty other threads on this forum as well as HTF. I just have one question, can someone post which glasses work with the adapter, adapter w/emitter, the whole starter pack and without anything. I know I'm not the only one reading that is lost with all the back and forth. If someone does this maybe a mod could sticky it to the top? Just a thought. Thanks!





for sure xpand 102s will work without an emitter (or even an adapter if you have checkerboard sources (panasonic bdt300/350 and some games have checkerboard output built in)


for sure the Mits glasses work with the starter pack emitter on everything I can throw at it


for sure the samsung 2100ABs work with the starter pack emitter/Mits glasses


for sure that the 102s will _not_ work in conjunction with the emitter based glasses 100% of the time, in fact, my experience has been the 102s _never_ work with the emitter based glasses


----------



## khee mao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dreaux* /forum/post/18935522
> 
> 
> Well you lost me at EDIID data. I have the latest Directv receiver which is showing 3D and a Mits 3D tv. I have the starter kit and it works intermittently but not in a real way.
> 
> I have a Sony HDMI 1.3 AV receiver and it looks like I will now have to dish out some more money for a 1.4 3D ready AV receiver...which is not going to be cheap because I want one with 6 HMDI inputs.
> 
> Can you explain further what EDID detective is?




I went the Onkyo 7.2 HT-RC260 route for ~$350. 6 hdmi 1.4 ins, 1 out. the only real issue I had with it is it automatically does image 'enhancement', which I found, after much pulling of hair and gnashing of teeth, you are able to turn off. once it's off, it's a pretty kick ass receiver.


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/18935446
> 
> 
> If you can not turn up the brightness high enough on the TV to compensate for the light loss in the glases maybe the bulb in your TV is near the end of it's usefull life.



and this is why I would not buy another lamp based DLP and why I have 2 3d ready samsung LED dlp. the mitsu was tempting for the sizes larger then my 67" and for good price plus 3d and the new ones that even support more then just checkerboard but later its impossible to sell these bulky beasts. going to have enough trouble selling 2 of my 3 dam dlp (one 67" lamp based but isf pro calibrated and have a spare bulb) and 1 61" 3d ready led dlp (that should sell well for the 3d factor now)


Going larger then 67" will just spoil me and leave me stuck with only being able to get Mitsu, like maybe the 75" laservue. so instead of keep getting bigger like i ialways do I'm waiting for the 65" sam 3d led lcd and hope i dont miss the 2" though i'm keeping the 67" sam 3d ready led dlp also.


i'm glad mitsu is keeping dlp alive and not abandoning their dlp owners like samsung did and the laservue is cool but still just dlp with all the limitations and still needs the converter so I think i'm finally over DLP (as far as buying any new even if led or laser but could not bring myself to do a lamp based at all) but I'll be using my 67" sam led dlp for some years to come in my second best HT room and used mostly for vid games.


----------



## rman726




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Quatre* /forum/post/18935607
> 
> 
> and this is why I would not buy another lamp based DLP and why I have 2 3d ready samsung LED dlp. the mitsu was tempting for the sizes larger then my 67" and for good price plus 3d and the new ones that even support more then just checkerboard but later its impossible to sell these bulky beasts. going to have enough trouble selling 2 of my 3 dam dlp (one 67" lamp based but isf pro calibrated and have a spare bulb) and 1 61" 3d ready led dlp (that should sell well for the 3d factor now)
> 
> 
> Going larger then 67" will just spoil me and leave me stuck with only being able to get Mitsu, like maybe the 75" laservue. so instead of keep getting bigger like i ialways do I'm waiting for the 65" sam 3d led lcd and hope i dont miss the 2" though i'm keeping the 67" sam 3d ready led dlp also.
> 
> 
> i'm glad mitsu is keeping dlp alive and not abandoning their dlp owners like samsung did and the laservue is cool but still just dlp with all the limitations and still needs the converter so I think i'm finally over DLP (as far as buying any new even if led or laser but could not bring myself to do a lamp based at all) but I'll be using my 67" sam led dlp for some years to come in my second best HT room and used mostly for vid games.



and the point of this post was what? to brag that you have the money to spend $5000 on a 65" samsung, which may be a little better than the $899 that people paid for a 65" DLP? When the comparable sized LED LCD TV costs over 5x as much money, that's where I draw my line... i could buy 41 replacement bulbs before spending as much as you did on your 65" Samsung.


----------



## bigz

Good Point !


----------



## Daniel Murray

rman726, I am with you


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rman726* /forum/post/18935661
> 
> 
> and the point of this post was what? to brag that you have the money to spend $5000 on a 65" samsung, which may be a little better than the $899 that people paid for a 65" DLP? When the comparable sized LED LCD TV costs over 5x as much money, that's where I draw my line... i could buy 41 replacement bulbs before spending as much as you did on your 65" Samsung.



uh of course you say that because this is a mitsu thread which I have been participating in even though i am only a sam led dlp owner.


I didnt get any 65" sam 3d led lcd yet and would love if everything worked with my sam led dlp but it doesnt and needs converter etc. so I dont want to pay for a converter just to use 3d on a tv that wont be full HD in 3d. and so i was making the point i can't bring myself to buy another dlp..


----------



## bhalbower

I received my starter kit from Vann’s yesterday. The 3D picture is perfect on my 73737 with the Sony s470 Blu Ray player. I am having a little trouble with the emitter though. Every time I turn my TV on and start 3D content, I have to unplug the emitter and plug it back in for it to send the signal to the shutter glasses. It doesn’t matter whether I have the emitter plugged into the adapter or directly into the TV, it does the same exact thing. Anyone else having this problem? I am going to call Mits tomorrow and discuss it with them. It is very annoying.


----------



## trumperZ06




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rman726* /forum/post/18935661
> 
> 
> and the point of this post was what? to brag that you have the money to spend $5000 on a 65" samsung, which may be a little better than the $899 that people paid for a 65" DLP? When the comparable sized LED LCD TV costs over 5x as much money, that's where I draw my line... i could buy 41 replacement bulbs before spending as much as you did on your 65" Samsung.










All current TV's will be obsolete before you go thru 41 bulbs !!!


----------



## bornagain1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *advocate2* /forum/post/18922816
> 
> 
> Both Hyabusa and I bought the Samsung kit from this Ebay seller:
> 
> 
> consumerelectronicscostsavers
> 
> 
> The shipping was fast and the kit arrived in the sealed box, brand new.



Thanks for the link. I just bought the kit for an extra pair of glasses!


----------



## bornagain1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *id10tech* /forum/post/18912888
> 
> 
> dang...I took their online ad that says "in-store purchase only" to serious.
> 
> 
> Can't wait to pick up my kit!!



The site actually said:


Mitsubishi 3D Starter Pack

Model: 3DC-1000

SKU: 2387417

in-store/phone purchase only


I emphasized to the store rep that mine was a phone purchase. But it seems like people got different answers based on who they spoke to at the store.


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Quatre* /forum/post/18935804
> 
> 
> uh of course you say that because this is a mitsu thread which I have been participating in even though i am only a sam led dlp owner.
> 
> 
> I didnt get any 65" sam 3d led lcd yet and would love if everything worked with my sam led dlp but it doesnt and needs converter etc. so I dont want to pay for a converter just to use 3d on a tv that wont be full HD in 3d. and so i was making the point i can't bring myself to buy another dlp..



If you actually look and compare with the same 3D content, you will find that DLP produces a _better_ 3D image than the so called full HD 3D sets.


----------



## icerat4




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmalter0* /forum/post/18936561
> 
> 
> If you actually look and compare with the same 3D content, you will find that DLP produces a _better_ 3D image than the so called full HD 3D sets.





I highly doubt that







my sony hx800 blows away dlp fo sure hands down how do u make a statement like this


----------



## Daniel Murray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmalter0* /forum/post/18936561
> 
> 
> If you actually look and compare with the same 3D content, you will find that DLP produces a _better_ 3D image than the so called full HD 3D sets.



Very true! At my friends H/T store They have a Panny and a Samsung on display and 3-D looks very good. I asked why they had no 3-D Mitsubishi with 3-D on display. Nick told me they could not come close as to sammy or Panny in 3-D. But I did get his dad to put a Panny 3-D player to the 65" Mitsubishi and all I saw was a much better 3-D pitcher.

Every one how works there could not beleive how much better the 65" Mitsubishi looked over the other two sets. I went back by there yesterday on my way home from work and now the mitsubishi TV is up front so any one how walks in can see how good it looks. Nick and his dad has thank me for making them hook up the 3-D player to it. they are sold out of the Mitsubishi DLP TVs now. I was told they never new -3-D on DLP could look so much better than the other two formates.


So I hope this helps some of you about DLP and 3-D .


----------



## Daniel Murray

By the way Mitsubishi was much much brighter in 3-d Than the Panny.


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *icerat4* /forum/post/18936591
> 
> 
> I highly doubt that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my sony hx800 blows away dlp fo sure hands down how do u make a statement like this



I actually looked at the same content on both, on what do you base your statement?


----------



## mhetman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Daniel Murray* /forum/post/18936608
> 
> 
> By the way Mitsubishi was much much brighter in 3-d Than the Panny.



Interesting info....I have the Sammy and find the 3d looking very good. I have seen the Panasonic but not in a direct comparison. I wouldn't even attempt to judge them by memory but still was impressed with the Panasonic as well. Glad to see any investment in the DLP's whether a Panny or Mits turns out to be a good one.


----------



## Hermanos87

Has anyone here purchased the starter kit from HSN and is experiencing a situation where there is no shipping information yet. The item is scheduled to arrive on the 22nd, I ordered it on the 15th, and still there is no shipping information. I contacted them and they assure me that everything is fine, but other people on this thread say they've received emails claiming it won't be sent on time, I never received that email..... thoughts?


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *illthreat* /forum/post/18928663
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18928481
> 
> 
> Has anyone who has the adapter hooked it up UPSTREAM of a 1.3 AVR? Since Mits programmed it to require the EDID of a Mits TV to enable itself, will it see the Mits TV if there's a receiver in between?
> 
> 
> I'm fearing no.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... I can if it helps you with anything. ...
Click to expand...


Just curious if you, or anyone, has tested this yet to see if the Mits adapter will still work if there's an AVR in between it and the TV.


----------



## tofana10am

Hermanos87,


I also placed an order from HSN for the Mits Starter pack and have not received any shipping emails. All I've gotten so far is an order confirmation. My scheduled delivery is the 28th. Good luck.


----------



## buzzard767




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmalter0* /forum/post/18936561
> 
> 
> If you actually look and compare with the same 3D content, you will find that DLP produces a _better_ 3D image than the so called full HD 3D sets.



100% agree. I have a HL67A750 Samsung LED DLP that is at least the equal of any of the LCD or Plasmas with ZERO crosstalk. I anticipate the Mits 73838 I'll be buying this October will give me similar performance.


Buzz


----------



## pjb16




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18936760
> 
> 
> Just curious if you, or anyone, has tested this yet to see if the Mits adapter will still work if there's an AVR in between it and the TV.



It seems to work on my ps3 and my D* HD-dvr with my Onkyo 876 in between. Now I should say I can't seem to get ESPN-3D through the AVR, but I couldn't get it when I hooked it straight up to the adapter either.


I haven't tried it yet with the panny 350 HDMI main (only) going to the AVR then through the adapter (not sure if it will pass-through something that is already in checkerboard).



Edit: My bad, I misread what you quoted. You were looking for TV>AVR>adapter.


----------



## BelB64

Hermanos87 I too have ordered from hsn and have no shipping info I have an estimated delivery date of July 28 and on the phone they said no problems. Today I went online and there is a live chat there. The person at hsn again assured me "not to worry", that the order was out at the warehouse and that she would check for me and send an update. My situation was wierd because last Saturday the website said "sold out" for the kit. Then I happened to try again Sunday morning(July 28) and it said almost sold out. I mmediately called and the oreder was confirmed. It was like they found some more between Saturday and Sunday. I have never received any postponement e-mails like we've heard.


----------



## audiopho




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhalbower* /forum/post/18936173
> 
> 
> I received my starter kit from Vann's yesterday. The 3D picture is perfect on my 73737 with the Sony s470 Blu Ray player. I am having a little trouble with the emitter though. Every time I turn my TV on and start 3D content, I have to unplug the emitter and plug it back in for it to send the signal to the shutter glasses. It doesn't matter whether I have the emitter plugged into the adapter or directly into the TV, it does the same exact thing. Anyone else having this problem? I am going to call Mits tomorrow and discuss it with them. It is very annoying.



The answer is no, obviously there is something going on with your kit.

What happens if you do not plug/unplug the emitter in and out?


Mine is 73837 and my only 3d source is D*TV.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pjb16* /forum/post/18936778
> 
> 
> Edit: My bad, I misread what you quoted. You were looking for TV>AVR>adapter.



Correct. Since the adapter needs to see a Mits TV EDID to operate, I'm wondering if the adapter will even work if there's a receiver in the middle. I'm expecting it will see the EDID of the receiver, and not work. This will be a critical issue for anyone with a 1.3 AVR wanting to watch blu-rays from the PS3, or any other player that doesn't either output in checkerboard, or have two HDMI outputs. A 1.3 AVR won't be able to decode HD audio out of the frame packed signal, and needs the adapter upstream to convert the signal to one it understands. But if the adapter doesn't work upstream of the AVR, that becomes an issue.


----------



## BelB64

Hermanos87 If you give me your e-mail address I will e-mail you the transcript of my online chat with a hsn representative I just had a minute ago. Once again I was assured that my order was good to go, and that the warehouse has it and I should be receiving the kit no later than July 28.


----------



## Hermanos87




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BelB64* /forum/post/18936855
> 
> 
> Hermanos87 If you give me your e-mail address I will e-mail you the transcript of my online chat with a hsn representative I just had a minute ago. Once again I was assured that my order was good to go, and that the warehouse has it and I should be receiving the kit no later than July 28.



That won't be necessary, I just had a similar conversation with them and they promised it would be here by the date they quoted, I feel at ease now, thanks for your help though.


----------



## Impala1ss




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/18933043
> 
> 
> Is It normal for the picture to turn greenish when turning on the 3D mode on my tv?



NO.


----------



## White_Worm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18936845
> 
> 
> Correct. Since the adapter needs to see a Mits TV EDID to operate, I'm wondering if the adapter will even work if there's a receiver in the middle. I'm expecting it will see the EDID of the receiver, and not work. This will be a critical issue for anyone with a 1.3 AVR wanting to watch blu-rays from the PS3, or any other player that doesn't either output in checkerboard, or have two HDMI outputs. A 1.3 AVR won't be able to decode HD audio out of the frame packed signal, and needs the adapter upstream to convert the signal to one it understands. But if the adapter doesn't work upstream of the AVR, that becomes an issue.



Will there be an issue if the receiver is 1.4 though? The adapter needs to see the TV to work, so can you go source>1.4AVR>3dc-1>TV and have everything work fine?


And if the TV is a Sammy (like mine), can you do source>1.4AVR>3dc-1>EDID spoof>TV?


I have a PS3 and D* that I'll be getting 3d content through, so I just want to make sure that will work. I haven't seen any confirmation on this yet.


----------



## Darin

If you have a 1.4 receiver, everything should work fine with the adapter after the receiver (and in your case, an EDID spoofer after the adapter). It's those of us with 1.3 AVRs that may have an issue.


----------



## walford




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dreaux* /forum/post/18935522
> 
> 
> Well you lost me at EDIID data. I have the latest Directv receiver which is showing 3D and a Mits 3D tv. I have the starter kit and it works intermittently but not in a real way.
> 
> I have a Sony HDMI 1.3 AV receiver and it looks like I will now have to dish out some more money for a 1.4 3D ready AV receiver...which is not going to be cheap because I want one with 6 HMDI inputs.
> 
> Can you explain further what Gefen EDID detective is and what it does?



some links:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extende...ification_data 

http://www.gefen.com/kvm/dproduct.jsp?prod_id=8005 

http://www.directv.com/DTVAPP/conten...ccb0c2&mscbg=0 


Some receivers will pass through the EDID data from the TV they are corrently conncted to others do not.

Many users have had no trouble using HDMI1.3 receivers.


----------



## KenBoggs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tofana10am* /forum/post/18936772
> 
> 
> Hermanos87,
> 
> 
> I also placed an order from HSN for the Mits Starter pack and have not received any shipping emails. All I've gotten so far is an order confirmation. My scheduled delivery is the 28th. Good luck.



See attached from HSN. It looks like we will not be getting them soon.


Nicola : Good Morning Ken, how may I help you ?

KenB : My order is late and according to the web site has not even shipped yet Order number 962614016

Nicola : I am so sorry, I'll be happy to check on this for you. One moment please while I pull up your account.


Nicola : Ken, your order shows that it has been sent to the warehouse. When an item is shipped from the vendor and you choose the faster shipping, you will receive the order before we receive the tracking number because they are trying to get you your order as fast as possible.

Nicola : I am so very sorry that it did not arrive on 07/20/10, I will refund the shipping that you had paid, and I will also send a message to the Vendor, asking for an update.

KenB : What vendor is this shipping from, I'm asking because no one has any of these is stock. I'm beginning to belive that you (or your vedor) did not really have any.

Nicola : I have processed a refund of $30.70 to your method of payment. This amount should be reflected on your credit card balance within 3-5 business days and will appear on your credit card statement within the next 1 or 2 billing cycles.


Nicola : The Vendors name is TIGER DIRECT INC, I have sent them a message, it generally takes 24 hours to receive a reply.

KenB : Thank you for the refund, but I really just want the item as soon as I can get it. I assume that it will still be shipped overnight when you get it?

Nicola : Yes.

Nicola : I really am truly sorry for the inconvenience, I wish that I had more information for you.

KenB : Tiger Direct is one of the places that I shopped for this. I'm 99% sure that they never had any. I wait but......

Nicola : We have not had any information to the contrary.

KenB : Thanks for your help. PS I'm on a forum with other peoplr trying to get them. Several ordered from HSN and none have gotten them or received shipping info. Tiger Direct has made you look bad.

Nicola : I am sending this to management, we need to know, so that we can help you, and you are welcome Ken. I do hope you have a good day.

KenB : Thanks Again. Here is the forum if they are interested

KenB : bye

Nicola : Please understand that we do not intentionally sell items that are not available. When these items were sold, our vendor guaranteed that the inventory was available for shipping. This breach of contract will go on file and will be taken into consideration when it is time to renew their contract at HSN.


----------



## dreaux




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/18937033
> 
> 
> some links:
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extende...ification_data
> 
> http://www.gefen.com/kvm/dproduct.jsp?prod_id=8005
> 
> http://www.directv.com/DTVAPP/conten...ccb0c2&mscbg=0
> 
> 
> Some receivers will pass through the EDID data from the TV they are corrently conncted to others do not.
> 
> Many users have had no trouble using HDMI1.3 receivers.



I see my TV is listed on the Directv site. Just so I understand, will getting and using the Gefen EDID detective eliminate the need for a HDMI 1.4 receiver and allow the use of my 1.3 receiver? The picture would then sync up and lock in?


----------



## advocate2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BelB64* /forum/post/18936801
> 
> 
> Hermanos87 I too have ordered from hsn and have no shipping info I have an estimated delivery date of July 28 and on the phone they said no problems. Today I went online and there is a live chat there. The person at hsn again assured me "not to worry", that the order was out at the warehouse and that she would check for me and send an update. My situation was wierd because last Saturday the website said "sold out" for the kit. Then I happened to try again Sunday morning(July 28) and it said almost sold out. I mmediately called and the oreder was confirmed. It was like they found some more between Saturday and Sunday. I have never received any postponement e-mails like we've heard.



If a deal sounds too good to be true, it's because it probably is too good to be true.


----------



## walford

Tst without using the reciver in the middle to confirm that no Gefen unit is rquired betwen your Dirctv rceiver and your TV.

Even if you put a Gefen unit between your STB and your receiver does not guaratee that your receiver will pass the content through untouched since not all do.

If your STB also has audio outputs you might try passing the audio to the receiver and have the video direct to your TV.


----------



## BelB64

Ken, Hermanos87 Well I must say hsn is persistent. I had ANOTHER online chat with an hsn person after reading Ken's post. I was again ASSURED that they have the inventory to fulfill our orders and Tiger has a separate agreement with them so even if one can't buy a product from Tiger directly doesn't mean hsn hasn't been provided product by them. Even after telling her that someone hadn't received their order at the estimated shipping date and that nooone we know has been told their order has been shipped, she again stated that my order was still scheduled to arrive by July 28 and that the vendor has the product to fulfill the order. I finally said I'm not confident at all but I will cross my fingers and hope for the best, but in the meantime will someone at hsn again contact Tiger and find out the real story of their inventory.


----------



## bhalbower




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiopho* /forum/post/18936802
> 
> 
> The answer is no, obviously there is something going on with your kit.
> 
> What happens if you do not plug/unplug the emitter in and out?
> 
> 
> Mine is 73837 and my only 3d source is D*TV.



If I don't unplug it and plug it back in the glasses do not shutter. I called Mitts and I am waiting for a tech person to call me back. I could probably return it to Vann's but I don't want to wait until Mid August to get my replacement Kit. I can still use the one I have by dealing with the problem emitter. I am going to try and get Mitts to send me a replacement emitter.


----------



## wstaffor

I just got off with HSN again, and was again told that the item is for sure backordered. My order was at 11:39PM friday night. They do not know when or even if they will ever have it back in stock.


----------



## bhalbower

I have a question about the emitter. If I run my thumb over the red light on top of the emitter it will turn off. If I run my thumb over the light again it will turn back on. Is it supposed to do that, or is it a bug?


----------



## Zapix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hermanos87* /forum/post/18936689
> 
> 
> Has anyone here purchased the starter kit from HSN and is experiencing a situation where there is no shipping information yet. The item is scheduled to arrive on the 22nd, I ordered it on the 15th, and still there is no shipping information. I contacted them and they assure me that everything is fine, but other people on this thread say they've received emails claiming it won't be sent on time, I never received that email..... thoughts?



I got the standard shipping, and it still says the status is "*Not Yet Shipped*", due to be delivered 7/26/2010


Having googled hsn and their shipping status updates, it seems they're not so good about it. It actually seems alot of people tend to get their orders before the status ever updates. I guess tomorrow will tell. Really hope this is the case, because I never got a backordered email or anything.


----------



## id10tech

I too talked to HSN and they assured me that it was in stock and they were waiting for the shipping info from the vendor.


Now I'm thinking about cancelling. TigerDirect takes their sweet time processing and shipping orders out.


So where can I get one NOW?


----------



## abouels0827

Some one does have the mitsubishi starter kit, adapter two glasses emitter and dvd on ebay if annyone is in a need to have priority. There's no where else that has has them. In stock.


----------



## rsnyder005

Is It normal for the picture to turn greenish when turning on the 3D mode on my tv



The background screen does indeed turn a slightly bluish-green when 3D mode is on.After some research, I found this to be normal-but it should NOT affect the picture when an image is displayed


----------



## id10tech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abouels0827* /forum/post/18938298
> 
> 
> Some one does have the mitsubishi starter kit, adapter two glasses emitter and dvd on ebay if annyone is in a need to have priority. There's no where else that has has them. In stock.



ha ha...$500 is just ridiculous. I'll wait then.


----------



## abouels0827

Have fun waiting, I've got my laptop with 3d video card hooked thru my adapter and enjoying every bit of it. Got tons of games supported in 3d everything looks beyond awesome n 60 inches. Forget about the wait for ps3 games, 3d gaming is so good on the pc.


----------



## cesar2010




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *abouels0827* /forum/post/18938563
> 
> 
> Have fun waiting, I've got my laptop with 3d video card hooked thru my adapter and enjoying every bit of it. Got tons of games supported in 3d everything looks beyond awesome n 60 inches. Forget about the wait for ps3 games, 3d gaming is so good on the pc.



damn i need to get myself a pc with hdmi output... for this 3d gaming and stuff...love my laptop but not hdmi btw where u find videos movies n games in 3d online?


----------



## abouels0827

Basically all pc games within the last couple years can be pleyd in stereoscopic 3d. Pc is way ahead of the other platforms, any game u can think of is 3d ready. So long as u have a 3d video card


----------



## Hermanos87

Is anyone able to confirm that they have received the item through HSN, especially those who chose the July 20 delivery date, I feel like we will end up getting shafted.


----------



## BelB64

This hsn thing is so bizarre. It seems ONLY wstaffor is getting the reply that the item is backordered and may never be carried by hsn again. The rest of us it seems are getting either by chat online or by phone or both(as in my case as I just got off the phone with them and have chatted twice online), the same message theat hsn stands by their delivery date and the vendor has the product to fulfill the orders. I was just told a request on my behalf was sent to the superiors at hsn to contact TigerDirect and try to get a clearer picture about this product's availability and shipping schedule. You'ld think if they in fact don't have any reason to believe the product will be shipped or that they have no idea if they'll ever carry the product, they would inform all of us so we could make alternative plans.


----------



## KenBoggs

My was due yesterday and I have nothing new to report since this morning (see post above). They said it would take 24 hours to get a response from Tiger so I will check back tomorrow morning


----------



## wstaffor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BelB64* /forum/post/18939228
> 
> 
> This hsn thing is so bizarre. It seems ONLY wstaffor is getting the reply that the item is backordered and may never be carried by hsn again. The rest of us it seems are getting either by chat online or by phone or both(as in my case as I just got off the phone with them and have chatted twice online), the same message theat hsn stands by their delivery date and the vendor has the product to fulfill the orders. I was just told a request on my behalf was sent to the superiors at hsn to contact TigerDirect and try to get a clearer picture about this product's availability and shipping schedule. You'ld think if they in fact don't have any reason to believe the product will be shipped or that they have no idea if they'll ever carry the product, they would inform all of us so we could make alternative plans.



Agreed on the bizarre-ness.


On a happier note, I've found the 3dc-1000 IN STOCK. Paul's TV has them. They aren't on their website yet, but you can call 888-728-5712 and order one over the phone. $399 with free shipping UPS ground. They said they actually have them IN HAND, and it will definitely ship within 24 hrs.


----------



## Hermanos87




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BelB64* /forum/post/18939228
> 
> 
> This hsn thing is so bizarre. It seems ONLY wstaffor is getting the reply that the item is backordered and may never be carried by hsn again. The rest of us it seems are getting either by chat online or by phone or both(as in my case as I just got off the phone with them and have chatted twice online), the same message theat hsn stands by their delivery date and the vendor has the product to fulfill the orders. I was just told a request on my behalf was sent to the superiors at hsn to contact TigerDirect and try to get a clearer picture about this product's availability and shipping schedule. You'ld think if they in fact don't have any reason to believe the product will be shipped or that they have no idea if they'll ever carry the product, they would inform all of us so we could make alternative plans.



That's in addition to atleast one comfirmed case of somebody ordering it for the 20th and not recieving it, I guess the only way to find out is to wait till tomorrow, I will be P.O'd if I was given the runaround.


----------



## Scubawoman

I called Abt a few minutes ago. They received about 20 starter kits last Friday and shipped them out. I was #15 on the list but some people ahead of me ordered more than 1 so now I'm #4. I don't know how many other people are on the list but they said they are shipping by date the orders were placed. They are supposed to get another shipment of the starter kit either 7-24 or 7-30 at the latest.

Their website now says backordered 2-4 weeks rather than pre-order but he assured me they are getting another shipment no later than 7-30.


----------



## KenBoggs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wstaffor* /forum/post/18939408
> 
> 
> Agreed on the bizarre-ness.
> 
> 
> On a happier note, I've found the 3dc-1000 IN STOCK. Paul's TV has them. They aren't on their website yet, but you can call 888-728-5712 and order one over the phone. $399 with free shipping UPS ground. They said they actually have them IN HAND, and it will definitely ship within 24 hrs.



OK, I now have three on order all with 2 day shipping. Amazon, HSN and Paul's. I hope they do not all ship at one time so that I can cancel the others.


----------



## Darin

Scubawoman, when did you order?


----------



## rman726




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wstaffor* /forum/post/18939408
> 
> 
> Agreed on the bizarre-ness.
> 
> 
> On a happier note, I've found the 3dc-1000 IN STOCK. Paul's TV has them. They aren't on their website yet, but you can call 888-728-5712 and order one over the phone. $399 with free shipping UPS ground. They said they actually have them IN HAND, and it will definitely ship within 24 hrs.



I just called Paul's and the lady told me she would transfer me to my local score, which the closest one is in Avon, MA, and they said they don't have them in stock yet, but the guy said the system is showing that the stores in California are reporting that they do have them in stock, so they think the East coast stores should be getting them in any day. Additionally, the guy told me I could put a deposit of 30% to guarantee pickup at the local store. He said they didn't have very many people do that yet, so he didn't want to guarantee that I would have one in the first shipment reserved for me, but he was almost positive I would...


So if you are looking to have one shipped, I would suggest calling and when they ask you which store, tell them one from CA. And then afterwards cancel your HSN order, because they clearly have no idea what's going on.


----------



## khee mao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KenBoggs* /forum/post/18939495
> 
> 
> OK, I now have three on order all with 2 day shipping. Amazon, HSN and Paul's. I hope they do not all ship at one time so that I can cancel the others.




better keep on top of all of them personally. my experience is that, other than Amazon, most places are pretty lax with sending notification that something has actually shipped. just in the past week I've had to contact two different vendors to ask for a tracking id. both had the id handy, but who knows if or when they ever planned on telling me.


----------



## Scubawoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18939497
> 
> 
> Scubawoman, when did you order?



July 1


----------



## BelB64

Thanks for the heads up wstaffor about pauls I too was told they are out of them but in a week or two they are expecting a shipment of "over 100" maybe that's when all the vendors(amazon, Tigerdirect, etc) will get their stock. Then maybe this national nightmare will finally be over!


----------



## jjknatl

got an email notice from Vanns this AM saying they had the adapter in stock. don't need it now that I have the kit so haven't actually checked to verify.


----------



## Zapix

So with you people canceling your HSN order, was the option to cancel available on the order status? Mine still as of this moment says it's still NOT YET SHIPPED, but the option to cancel is unavailable... Not saying I probably couldn't chat/call them and do it, but seeing as how the option isn't readily available, it makes me wonder.


I'm heading up to Boston this Friday with my family, and one of Paul's TV stores happens to be on the way there. If HSN has their heads up their, um, then yeah, I would rather just get it from a store and not have to deal with businesses that don't know what's going on.


----------



## Av8tr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wstaffor* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed on the bizarre-ness.
> 
> 
> On a happier note, I've found the 3dc-1000 IN STOCK. Paul's TV has them. They aren't on their website yet, but you can call 888-728-5712 and order one over the phone. $399 with free shipping UPS ground. They said they actually have them IN HAND, and it will definitely ship within 24 hrs.



I was supposed to get mine from hsn yesterday. I too have gotten the same responses from them. After reading this post I called Pauls TV and they said I could go to their warehouse and pick one up. It was 3:45 and they are an hour away here in southern cal. I jumped in the car and got there at 4:56.


I'm now sitting in rush hour traffic, but very happy. I'll be glad to overnite the one from hsn to anyone that wants it. If it ever arrives.


----------



## Av8tr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *khee mao* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> better keep on top of all of them personally. my experience is that, other than Amazon, most places are pretty lax with sending notification that something has actually shipped. just in the past week I've had to contact two different vendors to ask for a tracking id. both had the id handy, but who knows if or when they ever planned on telling me.



Hey khee Mao

Sabai dee Mai? Maybe u should go to AA


----------



## Hermanos87

For all of those who ordered off of HSN, I spoke to a gentleman from Tiger Direct and said that they had 57 of the Mitubishi 3dcs backordered and that their next delivery is due in tomorrow the 22nd, so I suppose for all of those who haven't received it yet I would suggest that it will probably be out shortly since he assured me they were receiving a couple hundred.


----------



## khee mao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zapix* /forum/post/18940328
> 
> 
> So with you people canceling your HSN order, was the option to cancel available on the order status? Mine still as of this moment says it's still NOT YET SHIPPED, but the option to cancel is unavailable... Not saying I probably couldn't chat/call them and do it, but seeing as how the option isn't readily available, it makes me wonder.
> 
> 
> I'm heading up to Boston this Friday with my family, and one of Paul's TV stores happens to be on the way there. If HSN has their heads up their, um, then yeah, I would rather just get it from a store and not have to deal with businesses that don't know what's going on.




trouble is, pretty much no retailer knows what's going on with these kits. delay after delay from Mits, for whatever reason, is the culprit here.


I know Mits added in an eid check late in the game, which probably stalled deliveries. too, it seems, they cut some kind of deal with Samsung. not every day you see mention of a competitor's product being verified to work in conjunction with the hardware you just purchased in the user's manual. especially when Mits is selling glasses. draw your own conclusions on how that played out. anyway, the initial projection for delivery was late Spring, then early Summer, now it's mid-Summer and still spotty. can't really blame the retailers if they had contracts with Mits for delivery on x date.


----------



## khee mao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Av8tr* /forum/post/18940488
> 
> 
> Hey khee Mao
> 
> Sabai dee Mai? Maybe u should go to AA













those days are largely behind me, but the name shall stick!


----------



## Av8tr

Too bad. Would have been fun to meet over there. Just bought a ticket for Xmas.


----------



## khee mao

largely, not totally










been a few years since I've been. got drunk with an elephant last visit. good times.


----------



## id10tech

This is turning into a circus! ha ha


Can't cancel my order with HSN and ordered through Paul's TV. They said they have one in stock at a store 2 hours away from me that would ship for $75 more! What? lol


They have them on the website so I ordered through that but something tells me it's BS.


----------



## tariqosuave

I got mine... for like no reason... there is no content worth getting.


----------



## KenBoggs

I also tried to cancel with HSN, They will not cancel even when I went to the supervisor. They still insist that they had them in stock the whole time-lol. They do not have a restocking fee and I used AMEX to place the order. When it shows up I'll have to return it.


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tariqosuave* /forum/post/18941263
> 
> 
> I got mine... for like no reason... there is no content worth getting.



For now, I've been watching DVR 3D recordings of the World Cup games, MLB home run batting derby, and a 3D highlight loop from Comcast.....all definite eye candy!


----------



## tariqosuave

Comcast hasn't gotten the one channel in 3d yet... not in my area.


----------



## id10tech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KenBoggs* /forum/post/18941425
> 
> 
> I also tried to cancel with HSN, They will not cancel even when I went to the supervisor. They still insist that they had them in stock the whole time-lol. They do not have a restocking fee and I used AMEX to place the order. When it shows up I'll have to return it.



They said it should come UPS and that I can just refuse it and they will refund when they receive it.


----------



## White_Worm

I just checked my HSN and it says my 3dc-1000+Sony 3d Blu-Ray player has shipped. I bought the combo pack for $600 because all the solo starter kits were sold out. So maybe they were right and everyone's is shipping out today?


----------



## dvdphile1

I had ordered the 3DC-1000 kit on 7/17 (probably the last one"in stock") from HSN. The order was confirmed and showed a estimated delivery date of 7/27. Seeing all the possible concerns from forum members about non availability from HSN, i had called them on two occasions and they assured me the item was in stock with no problems. Each call to HSN customer service was polite and helpful and was reassuring. And, they were correct as i have UPS shipping confirmation - shipped today with tracking number.


----------



## KenBoggs

I was PO'd last night so I sent an e-mail to HSN's CEO and 9 VPs. I paid for express Shipping with Delivery on 7/20. Today I have a nice additional credit for my trouble and a Tracking Number. I canceled my order with Paul's so they will have one more in Stock for those still looking


----------



## Cleverland

It seems that the starter packs are beginning to ship. I found one yesterday at Universal Electronics in Chandler AZ and they said that they had five of them at the Tucson store....


----------



## Cleverland

Whoops that was Ultimate Electronics!!!


----------



## Troggie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/18943072
> 
> 
> It seems that the starter packs are beginning to ship. I found one yesterday at Universal Electronics in Chandler AZ and they said that they had five of them at the Tucson store....





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/18943131
> 
> 
> Whoops that was Ultimate Electronics!!!



Was it the Ultimate Electronics on Chandler Blvd & 101?! Did they have any more? I live right by there.


----------



## Zapix

Yep, like above, my HSN order status is now "SHIPPED" although it hasn't really shipped yet. UPS has only received the shipment information. I suppose once they have the package, they will have a better idea of when it will arrive. At which point I will decide if I will contact HSN to complain or not. Glad to see it will be shipping this lifetime though.


----------



## Cleverland

Yes at Chandler Blvd and the 101, I talked to the GM and he indicated that he could have one shipped from the Tucson store within 5 days. Then he found one kit at the store at Stapley and the the 60 which they were going to set up as a demo so it was open box. I bought it on the spot and drove over to pick it up. Everything was still sealed inside so it was never used.... Got it working last night on my Mitsu 73833 (had to bypass my Yamaha 3900 and exchange DirectTV DVRs between rooms as the D20-700 couldn't do 3D but was watching the 3d channel by 4PM.. Wow!!!! I am gonna love 3D!!!


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/18943552
> 
> 
> Got it working last night on my Mitsu 73833 (had to bypass my Yamaha 3900 and exchange DirectTV DVRs between rooms as the D20-700 couldn't do 3D but was watching the 3d channel by 4PM.. Wow!!!! I am gonna love 3D!!!



Don't know what a D20-700 DirecTV DVR is, could you mean HR20-700? Just mentioning it since if it is, when you try to use it for 3D content you should get a popup message saying to call DirecTV. They're supposed to exchange that HR20 for a newer model that does support 3D for no charge, but it would cause a new 2 year extension. Just mentioning it in case you didn't know.


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rad* /forum/post/18943565
> 
> 
> Don't know what a D20-700 DirecTV DVR is, could you mean HR20-700? Just mentioning it since if it is, when you try to use it for 3D content you should get a popup message saying to call DirecTV. They're supposed to exchange that HR20 for a newer model that does support 3D for no charge, but it would cause a new 2 year extension. Just mentioning it in case you didn't know.



Thanks for the info!! Yes an HR20-700. I didn't get that pop up message just the message that the reciever or the TV were not 3D capable. But I had a second DVR DR22-100 in my game room for a Samsung LED/LCD 8500 series which is not 3D capable (last years model) so I just switched them. But I messed up the whole home connections in the process...


----------



## id10tech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KenBoggs* /forum/post/18943021
> 
> 
> I was PO'd last night so I sent an e-mail to HSN's CEO and 9 VPs. I paid for express Shipping with Delivery on 7/20. Today I have a nice additional credit for my trouble and a Tracking Number. I canceled my order with Paul's so they will have one more in Stock for those still looking



Got my tracking info this morning as well pending a cancel from Paul's. THIS IS CHAOS!! lmao


----------



## BelB64

I'm right there with you guys. The website states shipped July 22 estimated arrival July 28. I ordered from there Sunday July 18.


----------



## Av8tr

My order from HSN is now showing "shipped". I picked one up from Paul's TV yesterday though. I guess I'll just put the new one on Ebay.


----------



## Troggie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/18943552
> 
> 
> Yes at Chandler Blvd and the 101, I talked to the GM and he indicated that he could have one shipped from the Tucson store within 5 days. Then he found one kit at the store at Stapley and the the 60 which they were going to set up as a demo so it was open box. I bought it on the spot and drove over to pick it up. Everything was still sealed inside so it was never used.... Got it working last night on my Mitsu 73833 (had to bypass my Yamaha 3900 and exchange DirectTV DVRs between rooms as the D20-700 couldn't do 3D but was watching the 3d channel by 4PM.. Wow!!!! I am gonna love 3D!!!



Lucky dog!


I'm kinda stuck in limbo as far as taking the leap and actively trying to hunt one down. I don't want to get the kit just for DirecTV 3D content, and I don't want to buy a 3D Bluray player until I find out for sure if the PS3 update later this year is going to include checkerboard. It _is_ comforting, however, knowing that people are having positive reactions to 3D on the Mits.


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

Guys hurry up cancel your nevercoming orders and order your 3dc-1000 kit from us -appliance .com .i just got mine its 399 free s&h and they have a lot in stock


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

i got my mitsubishi 2010 model wd -60738 from them too they very good ,can give u a good deal and fast shiping


----------



## illthreat

damn! sorry to read all of the bad experiences. Feeling ultra lucky I got mine when I did.


Hang in there folks, you're going to really dig it! Only going to get better from here!


Happy to answer any q's- let me know!


----------



## steelers1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/18945253
> 
> 
> Guys hurry up cancel your nevercoming orders and order your 3dc-1000 kit from us -appliance .com .i just got mine its 399 free s&h and they have a lot in stock



so will you sale me the mits glasses for $50.00 or just give them to me since they wont work. or are you just going to throw them away.


----------



## shark2br

HI ..PEOPLE.....Many Thanks for everybody and the info. here.... I Just want to everybody know...i got my Mitsubishi 3D Home Cinema Starter Kit 3DC-1000 , from Paul's.

I ordered this morning.....and by the afternoon they have it shipped out...with UPS tracking Number......Sweet. Go to Paul's or US- Appliance, and grab your 3D Kit.


Good Luck Everyone.


----------



## Hyabusha

Can someone do a huge favor for me...


Can someone make a short youtube video of their 3D mode switching from the menu?


Like this...


Go to HDMI-1 on a black screen. Then bring up the menu "that looks blue", scroll over to 3D, and show me the color change when you select 3D mode?


Please? I am so paranoid at why the screen turns green It's driving me crazy!


Thanks


----------



## mds54

^^^^^

It worried me at first too.

But now, many of us are experiencing the same thing, and we think it's normal.

The 3D PQ is excellent once you start watching it. Don't worry about the menu screen.

Also, when I switch back to 2D HD, the screens go back to normal.


----------



## Hyabusha

I just need some peace of mind so I can start to enjoy 3D on my Mits DLP.


----------



## Muckrak3r

I'm all for you guys early adopting and all... but what's the rush? I'm waiting to go 3-D until 1) the PS3 supports 3-D blu-ray 2) the prices on glasses and emitters and converters come down


I have plenty of time to wait. Our TV's are going to be great for a long time coming.


(not trying the TC here)


----------



## Scubawoman

Tigerdirect.com has the starter kit in stock, I called to confirm. If you use bing you get at least 10.4% cashback as well. I placed my order about 30 min. ago and it already is in the warehouse processing to ship (I chose ground shipping for $4.96). By 6:45 tracking number received, shipped.


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

us-appliance.com have the 3dc-1000 in stock !!!!! hurry


----------



## id10tech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Av8tr* /forum/post/18944721
> 
> 
> My order from HSN is now showing "shipped". I picked one up from Paul's TV yesterday though. I guess I'll just put the new one on Ebay.



You can do a couple things. HSN told me to just refuse the package and when the get it back they will refund...or...cancel Paul'sTV. I canceled my Paul'sTV order when HSN sent the tracking info. Saved about $100 by sticking with HSN.


----------



## pjb16




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Muckrak3r* /forum/post/18945859
> 
> 
> I'm all for you guys early adopting and all... but what's the rush? I'm waiting to go 3-D until 1) the PS3 supports 3-D blu-ray *2) the prices on glasses and emitters and converters come down*
> 
> 
> I have plenty of time to wait. Our TV's are going to be great for a long time coming.
> 
> 
> (not trying the TC here)



What's "down?" Or rather where is down?


You could get Xpand 102's and cut out the cost of the emitter (for example), and they have gone down in price in at least the past 3 months.


It is all well and good that you are waiting, but some people don't want to, and that's the rush. Some people like to try the newest stuff, or be able to brag about their stuff. I mean just because you have your priorities on those 2 things doesn't mean everyone has to view it the same.


----------



## Muckrak3r

I get that way with new gaming consoles. MUST HAVE IT DAY 1 !!!


----------



## jjknatl

And the mystery about connecting the emitter to the adapter continues. I was reading the manual and it says that switching to 2D content will turn off the emitter but the glasses will turn off 2 minutes later. The glasses turn off in 2 minutes anytime the emitter signal is lost, such as being out of range of the emitter.


Apparently, the adapter is not providing the "turn off" signal to the glasses since there is the 2 minute delay when the emitter is turned off. So, that theory no longer seems to be the reason for the adapter emitter connections. Any new theories?


Besides my admittedly weak speculation about feedback from the TV to the adapter, the only other thing I can think of is if the emitter signal from the TV was considered unreliable for this particular emitter, and the adapter amplifies, filters, or otherwise manipulates the TV's emitter signal to make it more reliable for this particular emitter. Apparently the emitter is working just fine when connected to the TV, so I'm at a loss.


On another topic, the manual says that 2D content is sent through unaltered.


----------



## olayinka

iv got the same issue with my wd 73833...whats up with that. Is anyone else experiencing this or is this a problem with the 2007 models??


----------



## olayinka




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigz* /forum/post/18935295
> 
> 
> I have the 65833 and using the the Mitsubishi Starter Pack. Does anyone find that the picture is not very bright in 3D mode. It is not even close to what it is in 2D mode. Can that be fixed somehow?



Mine is the same way. i got the wd 73833 and the screen in 3d mode has a greenish tint. it kinda sucks. if u finda fix, lemme kno.. please!!!


----------



## rsnyder005

[iv got the same issue with my wd 73833...whats up with that. Is anyone else experiencing this or is this a problem with the 2007 models??]


I have the same issue on a 73835 which is a 2008 model


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsnyder005* /forum/post/18947973
> 
> 
> [iv got the same issue with my wd 73833...whats up with that. Is anyone else experiencing this or is this a problem with the 2007 models??]
> 
> 
> I have the same issue on a 73835 which is a 2008 model




I also have this problem. You can adjust the brightness to almost maximum to help with this issue but I hope a better fix can be found!!!


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/18948091
> 
> 
> I also have this problem. You can adjust the brightness to almost maximum to help with this issue but I hope a better fix can be found!!!



Of course I have only been viewing the 3D demos from DirectTV, could it be the source?


----------



## Hyabusha

I'm so glad I'm not the only one seeing "green" when 3d is activated. I'm still waiting for mitsubishi to respond...


----------



## KenBoggs




Hyabusha said:


> I'm so glad I'm not the only one seeing "green" when 3d is activated. I'm still waiting for mitsubishi to respond...[/QUOT
> 
> 
> I have a 73737 and do not have the "green" issue. I have a HD22 DVR connected to a Sony STR DV1000 receiver (1.3 HDMI), the output of the receiver is connected to the 3d Adapter and then to the 73737.
> 
> 
> I received my 3DC-1000 from HSN this morning.


----------



## KenBoggs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/18948105
> 
> 
> Of course I have only been viewing the 3D demos from DirectTV, could it be the source?



Since each eye is black half the time (60 times a second) the result should be a 50% loss in brightness. This drop in light is noticeable on my 73737 but not a problem with the curtains shut.


----------



## Bulletttime

First off, I want to thank each member on this thread! I'd been lurking for a few weeks, while I was researching the adapter, Mitsu DLP TVs, and 3d in general. Last week, I decided to pull the trigger on everything. Ordered the 73C9 from Dell, the starter kit from RC Willeys, and an extra pair of Sammy rechargeables from ebay. Everything arrived over the course of this week, and last night I was able to set everything up. I didn't have a ton of hassle, though I ran into a few snags along the way. But by the end of the night I was grinning ear to ear while playing the Motorstorm demo. I even signed up for PlayStation Plus, since you get the full versions of Wipeout "free", and Super Stardust for 1/2 off.

Anyway, I noticed the emmiter light stays on, even when everything else is off, including the adapter (which seems to turn on and off automatically, when the PS3 is powered on or off). I looked in the manual, but didn't see anything about this. It's probably a minor thing, but I want to make sure this is normal. Is the emmiter light supposed to constantly stay on? Thanks again all!!


----------



## rad

73735 and when I switch to 3D mode I can hear something wind down in the set (the color wheel?) and I get the greenish tint and lower brightness. I switch from normal to bright on the settings and that helps my picture.


----------



## pmalter0

My 65737 appears quite bright in 3D (GC); but I notice that the picture automatically switches to "brilliant" with a 3D source.


----------



## bt2184

My emittor light stays on as well. I don't think its a big deal.


----------



## KenBoggs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bt2184* /forum/post/18948758
> 
> 
> My emittor light stays on as well. I don't think its a big deal.



I have my emitter plugged directly into the back of the TV. The emitter stay on as log as I have 3D mode enabled on my 73737.


----------



## audiopho




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KenBoggs* /forum/post/18948850
> 
> 
> I have my emitter plugged directly into the back of the TV. The emitter stay on as log as I have 3D mode enabled on my 73737.



That's how it is.


----------



## audiopho

Where exactly do you folks place the IR emitter at?

I put it on the right top side of my display. (which happens to be nearest to the TV emitter input, 73837 model)

I wrap some scotch tape on the attached wire behind it so it won't fall off the cliff.

In this case everyone who can be anywhere in the room won't lose sync to the emitter.


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiopho* /forum/post/18948987
> 
> 
> Where exactly do you folks place the IR emitter at?



On my self unit there is a small gap between the glass shelf the TV is on and the metal frame that the glass rests on, I was able to put it in that gap, in the mid point of the TV.


----------



## Scubawoman

I purchased the starter kit yesterday from Tiger Direct.com. I posted yesterday if you use bing you get cashback of at least 10.4%. I received confirmation from bing today that I received $60 in cashback from this purchase so it means the cashback is 15%.


----------



## Cleverland




audiopho said:


> Where exactly do you folks place the IR emitter at?
> 
> 
> I attached it to the top of the TV using a strip of velcro, right next to the Live Cam. Should just need line of sight from each viewer in the room...


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scubawoman* /forum/post/18949053
> 
> 
> I received confirmation from bing today that I received $60 in cashback from this purchase so it means the cashback is 15%.



That's a good deal. Too bad they don't carry the stand-alone adapter.


----------



## Chris Krumenauer

Just ordered from Tigerdirect.com Bing cashback was also $60 for me. Ordered with 2nd day shipping so it came to $410 less the cashback if that comes. Supposed to be here on the 27th.


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

3dc-1000 at us-appliance.com


----------



## Scubawoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/18949786
> 
> 
> 3dc-1000 at us-appliance.com



Do you work for them or are an owner? This is at least the 4th post since yesterday regarding that website.


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/18949786
> 
> 
> 3dc-1000 at us-appliance.com



Is this an advertisement? Or what?


----------



## Mounta1n




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/18950295
> 
> 
> Is this an advertisement? Or what?



I think he's just trying to be helpful because they keep selling out at various places and people are having a hard time finding them in stock anywhere.


----------



## Scubawoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mounta1n* /forum/post/18950385
> 
> 
> I think he's just trying to be helpful because they keep selling out at various places and people are having a hard time finding them in stock anywhere.



If you look back at the numerous posts from this person since yesterday there isn't any new information in any of them, just that they have the kits in stock. It definitely gives me the impression of a commercial. If I post information about a particular store/website it is to provide new information about pricing, availablitiy, shipping, etc. I'm all for trying to be helpful but numerous posts saying the same thing smacks of promotion.


----------



## DISGUYLA

please help.. I want to go 3d but don't know where to start!! I'm getting the WD-65838 tv on Tuesday.. will i need to get the 3da-1 adapter to input checkerboard 3d source?? it says on mitusibishi site that my tv is 3d capable and has 3d glasses emitter port on back panel of tv.. can i just use nvidia's glasses with emitters.?? planning to use my directv hr24 dvr receiver.. do i need the 3da-1 adapter.


thanks in advanced..


----------



## walford

Disguy,

You need an adapter until such time as the software upgrade for 838 scheduled for later is released and then the 838 will output full HDMI 1.4a complient EDID data and then D* will add the 738 and 838 model numbers that it will output to directly without an adapter.


----------



## nyc3dwd60738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scubawoman* /forum/post/18950420
> 
> 
> If you look back at the numerous posts from this person since yesterday there isn't any new information in any of them, just that they have the kits in stock. It definitely gives me the impression of a commercial. If I post information about a particular store/website it is to provide new information about pricing, availablitiy, shipping, etc. I'm all for trying to be helpful but numerous posts saying the same thing smacks of promotion.










im not promoting nothing guys im happy i got my startrer kit from them so i want to help u guys becouse i know how bad its to wait long time


----------



## majort0m

Just got my Mitsubishi starter pack today and wanted to post my thoughts. First, thanks to everyone that has been posting to this thread as it really was a valuable resource in trying to understand all this!


I have a 73737 TV, Sony AVR that supports HDMI 1.3a, a PS3 and directv. I connected the adapter between the AVR and TV. So ps3/directv to AVR to 3D adapter to TV. DirecTV worked immediately with no problems. PS3 I did have to connect first by bypassing the AVR so it would remember I have a 3D ready TV. So now I can switch between the PS3 and directv with no problems. I do have to set the TV to 3D mode and back, but it's not too much of a pain. I also connected the emitter directly to the back of the TV rather than going thru the adapter.


So far I'm very impressed. The quality of the different 3D show that are currently running on n3D differs quite a bit. At first I thought I had something setup wrong, but then confirmed it was just the shows themselves.


The PS3 games are just awesome. Super stardust HD just rocks it hard! Pain was meh, and wipeout is ok. Avatar I thought was disappointing, but maybe it's more of the controls and general aspects of the game I'm disappointed in. The 3D is excellent, but I guess I was expecting better rendering.


The blu-Ray disc that came with it I am also not able to comment on since I can only play it from my ps3 which I think still needs another firmware upgrade to do this (someone correct me if i'm wrong).


You do need to leave it on at all times as it won't pass thru if off. From what I can tell, it is true pass thru and no scaling, but my AVR is set to scale to 1080p so I could be wrong.


I do wish they would have been rechargeable glasses. Postings had indicated about 50-80 hours of use...The CR2025 battery was about $4.19 ea at target as I figured I should stock up on a few.


----------



## rgd18

Got my 3DA-1 on Wednesday.


I was able to hook it up and get it up and running with the MITS 73C9 and XPAND 102's very easily. I connected my SONY BDP 570 to the adapter and the adapter directly to the TV. I did not attempt to run it through my AV receiver - it is a couple of years old and did not want to add variables to the set up although I may try it some other time.


I viewed "Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs" (the only 3D content I have) and it was just OK. I hope my lack of enthusiasm has more to do with that movie's 3D content than the overall technology. The movie did not seem to have any great 3D effects (just basic stuff) so the "WOW" factor was very low. (I suspect a movie like Avatar might be a much more exciting experience in 3D - I hope I am right). From a technology perspective, I did not experience any ghosting or rainbow effects that others have complained about and did not otherwise adjust any of the TV picture calibration settings for 3D viewing.


Has anyone else viewed "Cloudy..." in 3D? If yes, I am interested in your opinion since I am not 100% certain that I was getting the full 3D effect. If that is as good as it gets (and I suspect/hope that is NOT the case), then 3D is a big disappointment. I hope other 3D content will be more visually compelling.


----------



## Scubawoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/18950880
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im not promoting nothing guys im happy i got my startrer kit from them so i want to help u guys becouse i know how bad its to wait long time



Sorry.


----------



## Cyclone

One way to make the Starter Kit cheaper is to sell your Disney Showcase disc on fleabay. I don't have a 3D blu-ray player, so I put mine up for sale and got $122!


----------



## Av8tr

I received 2 starter kits this week; one from Pauls TV, and one from HSN. I put the 2nd one on Ebay.


I'm very impressed with the 3d. Much better than I expected, but I can't get it to work with my Direct TV. It works great with my Panny BDT350. I have the adaptor connected between the AVR and 65737 TV with HDMI, but no joy. There are no lights whatsoever coming out of the adaptor box, so at first I thought it was defective. I swapped it out with my other kit's adaptor, and same problem; no lights. It appears to be completely dead. Can any of you confirm that you get lights on your adaptors? Any ideas why it won't work?


----------



## advocate2

_I do wish they would have been rechargeable glasses. Postings had indicated about 50-80 hours of use...The CR2025 battery was about $4.19 ea at target as I figured I should stock up on a few._



I bought 24 at less than $1 each on Amazon.


----------



## Cyclone




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Av8tr* /forum/post/18951351
> 
> 
> I received 2 starter kits this week; one from Pauls TV, and one from HSN. I put the 2nd one on Ebay.
> 
> 
> I'm very impressed with the 3d. Much better than I expected, but I can't get it to work with my Direct TV. It works great with my Panny BDT350. I have the adaptor connected between the AVR and 65737 TV with HDMI, but no joy. There are no lights whatsoever coming out of the adaptor box, so at first I thought it was defective. I swapped it out with my other kit's adaptor, and same problem; no lights. It appears to be completely dead. Can any of you confirm that you get lights on your adaptors? Any ideas why it won't work?



Yes, there should be a green light when the power is on, and a 2nd green light indicating a 3D program. Are you sure you have the power adapter plugged into the wall and to the back of the adapter, and that you pressed the power button? Did you try swapping out the power adapter as well?


----------



## Av8tr

Yes, I checked it numerous times. It is plugged in in both places. I even talked to mitsubishi tech support, but the women I talked to didn't seem too knowledgeable. They're supposed to contact me in 1 biz day. I tried a different outlet too. yes, i swapped it out for the another adaptor, and same results. It HAS to be some setting I've setup wrong, but I can't figure it out.


I don't have the emitter plugged into the adaptor. It's plugged into the TV. That shouldn't matter. My BD works fine, and I get fantastic 3D images with it.


----------



## rad

Have you tried pulling the AVR out of the signal path and just connecting the DirecTV receiver directly to it? DirecTV's tect bulletins say you can try through an AVR but if that doesn't work do a direct connect.


Also, what DirecTV reciver model do you have, if it's the HR20 it doesn't play 3D content, you can record it and use MRV to play it back on other HR2X's only.


----------



## KenBoggs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Av8tr* /forum/post/18951823
> 
> 
> Yes, I checked it numerous times. It is plugged in in both places. I even talked to mitsubishi tech support, but the women I talked to didn't seem too knowledgeable. They're supposed to contact me in 1 biz day. I tried a different outlet too. yes, i swapped it out for the another adaptor, and same results. It HAS to be some setting I've setup wrong, but I can't figure it out.
> 
> 
> I don't have the emitter plugged into the adaptor. It's plugged into the TV. That shouldn't matter. My BD works fine, and I get fantastic 3D images with it.



The power light will not stay on if there is no HDMI signal reaching it. I suspect a HDMI cable problem. Since you are sure you have a working Blu ray. Unplugging the hdmi cable from the back of the blu ray and plugging that into the output of your 3d adapter. plug the HDMI out put from the HR22 into adapter input with a different HDMI cable.


You could also try pugging the output of your blu ray player into the input of the 3d adapter and then to the TV. I know that this is it not necessary to see 3d but it will test the adapter and cables.


----------



## walford

AFAIK not all HDMI ports on all MITS DLP TVs accept 3D content. Have you chckd your manual and or tried other ports?


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Av8tr* /forum/post/18951823
> 
> 
> Yes, I checked it numerous times. It is plugged in in both places. I even talked to mitsubishi tech support, but the women I talked to didn't seem too knowledgeable. They're supposed to contact me in 1 biz day. I tried a different outlet too. yes, i swapped it out for the another adaptor, and same results. It HAS to be some setting I've setup wrong, but I can't figure it out.
> 
> 
> I don't have the emitter plugged into the adaptor. It's plugged into the TV. That shouldn't matter. My BD works fine, and I get fantastic 3D images with it.



Did you make sure the outlets you tried are all working by plugging in a different device that is known to work? It is possible multiple outlets you've tried are on the same breaker which may be tripped or could all be on a wall switch in the off position.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18952404
> 
> 
> Did you make sure the outlets you tried are all working by plugging in a different device that is known to work? It is possible multiple outlets you've tried are on the same breaker which may be tripped or could all be on a wall switch in the off position.



Also, are you using a surge protector? Plug the adapter directly to the outlet to test it.


----------



## DenisG

Hello from Amazon.com.


We now have delivery date(s) for the order you placed on June 03 2010 (Order# xxx-xxxxxxx-xxxxxxx):


"Mitsubishi 3DC-1000 3D HDTV Starter Pack"

Estimated arrival date: July 28 2010


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Greetings from Amazon.com.


We thought you'd like to know that we shipped your items, and that this

completes your order.


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rgd18* /forum/post/18951000
> 
> 
> Has anyone else viewed "Cloudy..." in 3D? If yes, I am interested in your opinion since I am not 100% certain that I was getting the full 3D effect. If that is as good as it gets (and I suspect/hope that is NOT the case), then 3D is a big disappointment. I hope other 3D content will be more visually compelling.



You are correct, it was not the best 3D experience. The WOW factor just wasn't there. Monster VS Alien had a much better wow factor 3D wise.


----------



## id10tech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cyclone* /forum/post/18951193
> 
> 
> One way to make the Starter Kit cheaper is to sell your Disney Showcase disc on fleabay. I don't have a 3D blu-ray player, so I put mine up for sale and got $122!



Someone paid $122 for a demo disc? They had to be confused!


----------



## rgd18




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenisG* /forum/post/18952609
> 
> 
> You are correct, it was not the best 3D experience. The WOW factor just wasn't there. Monster VS Alien had a much better wow factor 3D wise.



Thanks - I'm glad I'm not the only one who thought "Cloudy..." was weak as far as 3D is concerned. I'm also glad that I can expect more from the 3D experience with other (better) content.


I just saw a post that says Verizon FIOS has an episode of "Wealth TV" (featuring a Mercedes Benz Auto Show) available on VOD in 3D. I will check that out tonight and report back my observations on the 3D effects (vs. 2D HDTV)


----------



## PaulGo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *id10tech* /forum/post/18952758
> 
> 
> Someone paid $122 for a demo disc? They had to be confused!



You would be surprised to see what 3D demos discs are going for on ebay these days. There is so little 3D content available that these demo discs have become quite valuable.


----------



## dreaux




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Av8tr* /forum/post/18951351
> 
> 
> I received 2 starter kits this week; one from Pauls TV, and one from HSN. I put the 2nd one on Ebay.
> 
> 
> I'm very impressed with the 3d. Much better than I expected, but I can't get it to work with my Direct TV. It works great with my Panny BDT350. I have the adaptor connected between the AVR and 65737 TV with HDMI, but no joy. There are no lights whatsoever coming out of the adaptor box, so at first I thought it was defective. I swapped it out with my other kit's adaptor, and same problem; no lights. It appears to be completely dead. Can any of you confirm that you get lights on your adaptors? Any ideas why it won't work?



Is your AVR HDMI 1.3 or 1.4? I have Directv and the latest receiver and I can only get 3D intermittently. Directv wants a 1.4 AVR.

You can see that info in the starter kit manual.

Yet another expense!


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Av8tr* /forum/post/18951823
> 
> 
> Yes, I checked it numerous times. It is plugged in in both places. I even talked to mitsubishi tech support, but the women I talked to didn't seem too knowledgeable. They're supposed to contact me in 1 biz day. I tried a different outlet too. yes, i swapped it out for the another adaptor, and same results. It HAS to be some setting I've setup wrong, but I can't figure it out.
> 
> 
> I don't have the emitter plugged into the adaptor. It's plugged into the TV. That shouldn't matter. My BD works fine, and I get fantastic 3D images with it.



Another thing to consider, assuming the outlets are tested and are active, when you tried both adapters, did you also try both power supplies for the adapters? If you used the same power supply when trying both adapters, it is possible the power supply is dead so try the other one.


If you have an HDMI signal going to the adapter, it should power on regardless of setup since it is designed to receive both 2D content and 3D content when powered on.


----------



## walford

A direcTV STB will only output 3D content to on of the make/models of 3D units listed on therir Website. Unless the AVR is passing through the EDID data(which contains the make/model number) from a qualifying dispaly direcTV will not output to it. It appears that your AVR is providing it's own EDID data and not that of the qualifying Mak/model of 3D TV it is currently connected to so DirecTV will not output 3D content to it.


----------



## majort0m

Ok, it now appears my original post was incorrect.


I have a Sony AVR STR-DG1200 AVR.


With the adapter setup between the AVR and TV and my sources connected to the AVR. absolutely no problems what so ever with DirecTV. Now with the PS3, it gets weird. If I play Avatar, no problems. If I try to play any other 3D downloaded game (super stardust HD, pain, motor storm demo, MLB demo), it starts and the screen flickers back and forth and then goes black. If I plug the ps3 HDMI cable directly to the adapter (bypassing the AVR) then the screen shows up....plus the audio is only PCM 2.0 (maybe that is the default audio I don't know, but when played normal thru the receiver it appears to be 5.1) since it is coming from the TV's coax digital out.


So it would appear that directv is ok but I'll probably have to swap cables and bypass my receiver when I want to play PS3 super stardust or any other of the downloaded games...which sucks cause of the audio. I have my 73737 coax digital out connected to my receivers coax digital in, but it's always PCM 2.0. I guess I could switch the audio to optical out, but after 4 hours of swapping cables around and trying to figure this out, I just am going to sit back and finally play some games. Oh, and the screen going blank happens right after you select 'play in 3d', with stardust and the others...so the ps3 'knows it's 3D ready', but fades to black right after, then you have to switch the cable to bypass receiver.


So makes me wonder what will happen once Sony pushes the firmware for blu-Ray 3D.


Hope this makes sense and if anyone has any ideas that might help me out (without having to buy a new receiver) I would appreciate it.


----------



## Av8tr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dreaux* /forum/post/18953471
> 
> 
> Is your AVR HDMI 1.3 or 1.4? I have Directv and the latest receiver and I can only get 3D intermittently. Directv wants a 1.4 AVR.
> 
> You can see that info in the starter kit manual.
> 
> Yet another expense!



Yes, but a fun expense. I just bought a Pioneer VSX 1020. Huge improvement over my old Yamaha 1400, and yes, it's HDMI 1.4.


Walford is saying that the AVR can't pass the EDID signal (whatever that is), but my DirecTV box only has 1 HDMI slot. Do I need to get an adaptor that allows 1 HDMI to turn into 2?


----------



## Darin

DirecTV expects you to connect your DVR directly up to your TV. Even though you bought a 1.4 receiver, it's apparently passing on it's own EDID info (which is fairly common for receivers that process HDMI data), so the DVR is seeing the ID of the receiver instead of the TV. DirecTV apparently thinks that the people who enjoy good sound with video are a completely separate group from those who are interested in 3d. Everyone who is interested in this issue should send an email off to DirecTV complaining about their decision to NOT allow people to enable 3d mode in cases where the setup prevents the DVR from directly seeing the display's EDID. They are the only ones with 3d hardware with this requirement, to the best of my knowledge.


----------



## rgd18




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rgd18* /forum/post/18952818
> 
> 
> Thanks - I'm glad I'm not the only one who thought "Cloudy..." was weak as far as 3D is concerned. I'm also glad that I can expect more from the 3D experience with other (better) content.
> 
> 
> I just saw a post that says Verizon FIOS has an episode of "Wealth TV" (featuring a Mercedes Benz Auto Show) available on VOD in 3D. I will check that out tonight and report back my observations on the 3D effects (vs. 2D HDTV)



"Wealth TV" Verizon FIOS 3D VOD offering (the only 3D content presently on FIOS) was a snoozer. Boring program (unless you are a Mercedes Benz enthusiast) to which 3D added little if anything (not to mention the fact that the host kept repeating that the show was in 3D and kept pulling out and putting on 3D glasses (boring and annoying). I am REALLY hoping there is some 3D content with a lot more to get excited about in terms of the 3D effects. Otherwise, 3D will be "much ado about nothing".


Anyone seen anything in 3D that really knocked your socks off (in terms of the 3D effects)? What about sports?


----------



## pajer

the demo disc that came with the mitsubishi starter kit has a trailer for disney's a christmas carol imho has the best 3d i have seen yet. when the ghosts hand comes at you it looks like the finger is going to hit you in the face along with the floating snowflake appears you can reach out and touch it.


----------



## rgd18




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pajer* /forum/post/18954578
> 
> 
> the demo disc that came with the mitsubishi starter kit has a trailer for disney's a christmas carol imho has the best 3d i have seen yet. when the ghosts hand comes at you it looks like the finger is going to hit you in the face along with the floating snowflake appears you can reach out and touch it.



Thanks - that's what I was looking for (expecting) in the 3D and have not seen it yet (albeit in one movie and one TV show). I remember seeing Andy Warhol's Frankenstein in "cardboard glasses 3D" in the '70's, and that had better effects than anything I have seen so far with my 2010 "high tech" big bucks 3D!


----------



## walford




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Av8tr* /forum/post/18954440
> 
> 
> Yes, but a fun expense. I just bought a Pioneer VSX 1020. Huge improvement over my old Yamaha 1400, and yes, it's HDMI 1.4.
> 
> 
> Walford is saying that the AVR can't pass the EDID signal (whatever that is), but my DirecTV box only has 1 HDMI slot. Do I need to get an adaptor that allows 1 HDMI to turn into 2?



I said that *some makes/models* do not pass through EDID data from the dispaly/TV connected to the AVR.

For what is EDID data see the following:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extende...D_.28E-EDID.29


----------



## walford

With a Samsung 3D TVs with the content coming from a PC .

Make sure that select DVI/PC as the "name" (source) for the connection type


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *id10tech* /forum/post/18952758
> 
> 
> Someone paid $122 for a demo disc? They had to be confused!



I guess I should sell the LG demo disc. any takers?


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18954552
> 
> 
> DirecTV expects you to connect your DVR directly up to your TV. Even though you bought a 1.4 receiver, it's apparently passing on it's own EDID info (which is fairly common for receivers that process HDMI data), so the DVR is seeing the ID of the receiver instead of the TV. DirecTV apparently thinks that the people who enjoy good sound with video are a completely separate group from those who are interested in 3d. Everyone who is interested in this issue should send an email off to DirecTV complaining about their decision to NOT allow people to enable 3d mode in cases where the setup prevents the DVR from directly seeing the display's EDID. They are the only ones with 3d hardware with this requirement, to the best of my knowledge.



DirecTV doesn't expect you to directly connect their STB to your TV, just that if it doesn't work it's not supported by DirecTV.


I've been trying to replace an old Sony AVR with a new one that is HDMI1.4 and so far an Onkyo, Pioneer and Denon have been tried. The Onkyo got sent back mainly because every time there was a handshake between the Onkyo and the TV it reset all the video settings in my TV. The Pioneer told my HR24 that the only 3D resolutions my TV support was 1080i, when the Pioneer was pulled out of the stream it reported 720p, 1080i, 1080p/24, 1080p/30 and 1080p/60 as supported resolutions. So far the Denon is the only one that looks like it's not putzing with the HDMI handshake. So IMHO, don't blame DirecTV for saying the only way they'll provide support is if direct connection is used, put something else into the data stream and it breaks something you need to get that fixed, not DirecTV.


Also, I found this as one reason for issues:

_"For DIRECTV receivers which are connected to an AV system by way of the HDMI cable, the AV unit may not allow VSI (Virtual Socket Interface, protocol established to maintain reliable communications within a high speed data stream) data packets to pass. To alleviate this potential problem, it is advised to have the DIRECTV receiver directly connected to the 3D TV."_


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Av8tr* /forum/post/18954440
> 
> 
> Yes, but a fun expense. I just bought a Pioneer VSX 1020. Huge improvement over my old Yamaha 1400, and yes, it's HDMI 1.4.
> 
> 
> Walford is saying that the AVR can't pass the EDID signal (whatever that is), but my DirecTV box only has 1 HDMI slot. Do I need to get an adaptor that allows 1 HDMI to turn into 2?



Keep an eye on that 1020, I tried one today and on my DirecTV HR24 it cause my 3D channels to be grayed out in the guide. A reboot would bring them back for a little while but they'd gray out again eventually.


----------



## steelers1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pajer* /forum/post/18954578
> 
> 
> the demo disc that came with the mitsubishi starter kit has a trailer for disney's a christmas carol imho has the best 3d i have seen yet. when the ghosts hand comes at you it looks like the finger is going to hit you in the face along with the floating snowflake appears you can reach out and touch it.



what size of tv do you have? and how fare do you sit back from tv? thanks


----------



## pajer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steelers1* /forum/post/18954806
> 
> 
> what size of tv do you have? and how fare do you sit back from tv? thanks



73"and sitting about 12' away.


----------



## rsnyder005

[the demo disc that came with the mitsubishi starter kit has a trailer for disney's a christmas carol imho has the best 3d i have seen yet.]


You must not have seen"Grand Canyon Adventure-IMAX 3D.Absolutely the best I have seen to date


----------



## steelers1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pajer* /forum/post/18954942
> 
> 
> 73"and sitting about 12' away.



thanks.


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rgd18* /forum/post/18954555
> 
> 
> "Wealth TV" Verizon FIOS 3D VOD offering (the only 3D content presently on FIOS) was a snoozer. Boring program (unless you are a Mercedes Benz enthusiast) to which 3D added little if anything (not to mention the fact that the host kept repeating that the show was in 3D and kept pulling out and putting on 3D glasses (boring and annoying). I am REALLY hoping there is some 3D content with a lot more to get excited about in terms of the 3D effects. Otherwise, 3D will be "much ado about nothing".
> 
> 
> Anyone seen anything in 3D that really knocked your socks off (in terms of the 3D effects)? What about sports?



only fios is much ado about nothing. both Comcast and DirecTV have way more live 3d Channels/programing and on demand.


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18954552
> 
> 
> DirecTV expects you to connect your DVR directly up to your TV. Even though you bought a 1.4 receiver, it's apparently passing on it's own EDID info (which is fairly common for receivers that process HDMI data), so the DVR is seeing the ID of the receiver instead of the TV. DirecTV apparently thinks that the people who enjoy good sound with video are a completely separate group from those who are interested in 3d. Everyone who is interested in this issue should send an email off to DirecTV complaining about their decision to NOT allow people to enable 3d mode in cases where the setup prevents the DVR from directly seeing the display's EDID. They are the only ones with 3d hardware with this requirement, to the best of my knowledge.




I hate comcast just as much if not more then DirecTV but maybe comcast is the way to go for 3D being fios doesn't have 3d (the one crappy wealth tv vod episode doesnt' count) and directv seems to have this problem you mention plus vod you have to dl and other problems related to satelite like going in weather plus stb's that dont have the time or channel display.


does comcast have just as much 3D content as DirecTV? if so then I'd say of the 2 they are the way to go for now. I might switch and then back to fios when they get their 3D act together.


----------



## ucla tut

just got my stater kit and hooked it up to my directv and 82737. It worked great last night but today when I turned on my tv and directv to watch regular 2d television the tv just kept flashing black and blue screens. It does not seem to be picking up the signal from the directv box. I switched the tv back to 2d mode and still the same problem. I had to unplug the adapter and connect the directv back to my tv directly to be able to watch normal tv. Am I doing something wrong? Do I need to bypass the adapter to watch regular directv programming? Thanks!


----------



## Av8tr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rad* /forum/post/18954792
> 
> 
> Keep an eye on that 1020, I tried one today and on my DirecTV HR24 it cause my 3D channels to be grayed out in the guide. A reboot would bring them back for a little while but they'd gray out again eventually.



Yes, I read your previous post about problems with the Pioneer. I've only had my 1020 for a week and it came from Amazon, so it won't be any trouble sending it back. Which Denon are you using, and how do you like it? Is it working better for the 3D? It sounds like Direct TV doesn't want _any_ AVR's between their boxes and the 3D TV's.


I too have the Direct TV HR24, but my 3d channels are not grayed out at all. Of course the adaptor is not hooked up though.


I did some digging on the Denon 791/891 thread, and they look like very nice receivers. The 891 allows the GUI to overlay over video for volume and other info. I'd really like that feature. If everything else looks good, I may replace my Pioneer for one.


----------



## audiopho




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ucla tut* /forum/post/18955266
> 
> 
> It worked great last night but today when I turned on my tv and directv to watch regular 2d television the tv just kept flashing black and blue screens.



Does it happen when the adapter box turned off and the tv is in 2d mode?

Try to turn the adapter box on and deselect the 3d mode in your remote.


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Av8tr* /forum/post/18955537
> 
> 
> Yes, I read your previous post about problems with the Pioneer. I've only had my 1020 for a week and it came from Amazon, so it won't be any trouble sending it back. Which Denon are you using, and how do you like it? Is it working better for the 3D? It sounds like Direct TV doesn't want _any_ AVR's between their boxes and the 3D TV's.



So far the Denon is doing fine, but only played with it for a couple hours.


DirecTV is only saying they can't support any 3D problems if something is connected in the signal path, and I can't blame them. Since the AVR might alter the data stream in some way it could cause problems and DirecTV doesn't want to get stuck trying to diagnose those issues. Guess it's like the MRV setup, you want to use your own ethernet network you can but DirecTV won't support it, only if you use their DECA setup will the provide support for MRV issues.


----------



## Daniel Murray

I am have Directv TV coming to my house on Thursday to hook me up. I am dropping Comcast after the 2nd rate increase this year. I have a Mitsubishi WD-65835 and would like to know if this might be the best way to go for my 3D hook up. First I would get the adapter for Directv and the I would get the Panny BDT350 because it can do checkerboard. I would buy the 102 Shutter glasses. Or would I be better of in getting the starter kit from Mitsubishi?

Any help would be great.

Daniel


----------



## dreaux




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rgd18* /forum/post/18954608
> 
> 
> Thanks - that's what I was looking for (expecting) in the 3D and have not seen it yet (albeit in one movie and one TV show). I remember seeing Andy Warhol's Frankenstein in "cardboard glasses 3D" in the '70's, and that had better effects than anything I have seen so far with my 2010 "high tech" big bucks 3D!



On Directv, African Safari is amazing. You are literally sitting in the 4x4 with them. Strangely enough I have the Sony STR-DA5300ES 1.3 HMDI and it is playing 3D great. The AVR is 2 years old but one of the high end ES series. It does do HDMI 1.3a high speed, Cat2. There is a little screen blinking at first and then it locks in as long as I change my set to the 3D mode. I already ordered the Pioneer VSX-31 elite 3D ready. Darn...I may not need it but its too late now...I already put the Sony on Ebay.

That Pioneer better be near the quality of the Sony or else I will be bummed.

The trouble is of course is there is very little content however what Directv is offering is very good, at least on my set (Mits 82387).

When I try to watch a 3D program the starter kits kicks on and asks me to change my set to the 3D mode and after that the 3D is there . When I go back to 2D I do get a blank screen but turning the set off and then on brings back everything.

But yes, I was very impressed with the 3D programing. I found it better 3D than Avatar 3D.


----------



## dreaux




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Daniel Murray* /forum/post/18956186
> 
> 
> I am have Directv TV coming to my house on Thursday to hook me up. I am dropping Comcast after the 2nd rate increase this year. I have a Mitsubishi WD-65835 and would like to know if this might be the best way to go for my 3D hook up. First I would get the adapter for Directv and the I would get the Panny BDT350 because it can do checkerboard. I would buy the 102 Shutter glasses. Or would I be better of in getting the starter kit from Mitsubishi?
> 
> Any help would be great.
> 
> Daniel



Directv 3D is presented side by side, not checkerboard that I am aware of, and the starter kit should be all you need unless you are going through a HMDI AVR 1.3.

But direct to your set the starter kit is all you need, for Directv, assuming you are using HDMI high speed cables. At least this has been my experience.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rad* /forum/post/18956098
> 
> 
> So far the Denon is doing fine, but only played with it for a couple hours.
> 
> 
> DirecTV is only saying they can't support any 3D problems if something is connected in the signal path, and I can't blame them.



I'd be fine if it was simply an issue of them just not supporting it. But they have the DVR specifically programmed to not even allow you to _enable_ 3d output if it doesn't recognize a 3d TV connected.


> Quote:
> Guess it's like the MRV setup, you want to use your own ethernet network you can but DirecTV won't support it



Except in that case, you really _can_ use your own network.


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Daniel Murray* /forum/post/18956186
> 
> 
> I am have Directv TV coming to my house on Thursday to hook me up. I am dropping Comcast after the 2nd rate increase this year. I have a Mitsubishi WD-65835 and would like to know if this might be the best way to go for my 3D hook up. First I would get the adapter for Directv and the I would get the Panny BDT350 because it can do checkerboard. I would buy the 102 Shutter glasses. Or would I be better of in getting the starter kit from Mitsubishi?
> 
> Any help would be great.
> 
> Daniel



Welcome to DirecTV.


If you're getting a new install make sure that the installer doesn't try to give you a HR20 HD DVR, they don't support 3D, you need a HR21/22/23 or HR24, they all support 3D.


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ucla tut* /forum/post/18955266
> 
> 
> just got my stater kit and hooked it up to my directv and 82737. It worked great last night but today when I turned on my tv and directv to watch regular 2d television the tv just kept flashing black and blue screens. It does not seem to be picking up the signal from the directv box. I switched the tv back to 2d mode and still the same problem. I had to unplug the adapter and connect the directv back to my tv directly to be able to watch normal tv. Am I doing something wrong? Do I need to bypass the adapter to watch regular directv programming? Thanks!



I have been having similar problems. I have the HR22 going directly to the Mitz adaptor box then from adaptor box to a WD 73833. But when I switch the to a 2D channel and turn off the 3D mode on the TV I lose the picture. I still get audio which is connected via optical from the HR22 to a Yamaha RX V3900. Sometimes turning then HR22 off then back on brings the video back but not always. After cycling the 3900, HR22 and adaptor on and off and switching inputs on the TV the picture comes back. It seems like the TV can no longer sence a video signal until it goes away and then is turned on again..Anyone else having problems like this???


----------



## ucla tut




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiopho* /forum/post/18955934
> 
> 
> Does it happen when the adapter box turned off and the tv is in 2d mode?
> 
> Try to turn the adapter box on and deselect the 3d mode in your remote.



The adapter box is on and 3d mode is turned off.


----------



## audiopho




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ucla tut* /forum/post/18956506
> 
> 
> The adapter box is on and 3d mode is turned off.



Something is not right!

When the adapter is on and 3d mode is off, the D*TV should work but it may take a bit longer than usual when changing channel.

Either recycle the power or reset the D*TV receiver.

Likewise do the same or unplug the adapter.

If this doesn't work, you should try to call Mits.


EDIT: try this too, remove the IR emitter away from the TV.


----------



## Daniel Murray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rad* /forum/post/18956323
> 
> 
> Welcome to DirecTV.
> 
> 
> If you're getting a new install make sure that the installer doesn't try to give you a HR20 HD DVR, they don't support 3D, you need a HR21/22/23 or HR24, they all support 3D.



Thanks is one box (HR21/22/23/24) better than the other?


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Daniel Murray* /forum/post/18956917
> 
> 
> Thanks is one box (HR21/22/23/24) better than the other?



The HR21 has a 320GB harddrive in it, a HR22 is the same as a HR21 but with a 500GB harddrive, the HR23 is the same as a HR22 but has wideband DBS tuners so you don't need the BBC adapters if you don't have a SWiM dish/switch. The one knock that many folks have against these boxes is the performance of the user interface, many folks find it too slow for their liking.


The HR24 is the newest HD DVR and has a different chip set in it and has fixed any performance problems. It also has built in DirecTV Ethernet over Coax Adaper (DECA) built in if you go with the Connected Home install to use Whole Home DVR (multi room viewing). If you didn't order Whole Home DVR I'd recommend that you get that, it's $3/month extra and then if you don't want to use it you can cancel it later. At least that way if you do decide in the future you want it you're all set hardware wise and won't need a new truck roll to get it installed. It also increases your chances of getting HR24/H24 receivers on the install.


----------



## Daniel Murray

Thanks for the Info. I did order whole home DVR service.


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Daniel Murray* /forum/post/18957009
> 
> 
> Thanks for the Info. I did order whole home DVR service.



Good, also make sure you ordered the Internet Connection Kit (ICK), that is $25 extra and interconnects the DECA network to your router so you can pull DirecTV on Demand content and TVApps. If you don't do it on the original order it's another truck roll charge to add it.


----------



## Daniel Murray

rad,

I will look into it.

Thanks


----------



## illthreat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Av8tr* /forum/post/18955537
> 
> 
> Which Denon are you using, and how do you like it? Is it working better for the 3D? It sounds like Direct TV doesn't want _any_ AVR's between their boxes and the 3D TV's.




Although I haven't tested any Yamaha receivers yet (will do next few weeks) - there was a post above regarding Directv 3d & 3DC-1000 working fine with his Sony 1.3 AVR..


----------



## tariqosuave

Just got mine... Sadly I don't have a blu ray player... But I enjoyed Invincible tiger demo. Any other free content that I can use on the 360?


----------



## KenBoggs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Daniel Murray* /forum/post/18957075
> 
> 
> rad,
> 
> I will look into it.
> 
> Thanks



The internet connection kit did not work well in my house. The ICK uses the

house AC wiring to pass data. I suspect that mine did not work well since my router and Direct TV are both very far away from the AC breaker box. Since my game console, Blu ray and HR24 all need internet connections I added a cheap Ethernet hub (Linksys EZXS55W and wireless adapter (linksys WET61DN).


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KenBoggs* /forum/post/18958153
> 
> 
> The internet connection kit did not work well in my house. The ICK uses the
> 
> house AC wiring to pass data. I suspect that mine did not work well since my router and Direct TV are both very far away from the AC breaker box. Since my game console, Blu ray and HR24 all need internet connections I added a cheap Ethernet hub (Linksys EZXS55W and wireless adapter (linksys WET61DN).



That's the old power line adapters, DirecTV doesn't even sell them anymore. ICK is the key work for a Connected Home installation that says to add another DECA at the router location for bridging the two networks.


----------



## KenBoggs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rad* /forum/post/18958244
> 
> 
> That's the old power line adapters, DirecTV doesn't even sell them anymore. ICK is the key work for a Connected Home installation that says to add another DECA at the router location for bridging the two networks.



I was installed about 6 months ago and this is what they sold me and the installer put in. I'm glad they quit using it because it is junk.


----------



## nc88keyz

So we watched african imax adventure tonight. The dtv stuff looks kinda dulling. ..yellow green. (really had to tweak the color, brightness etc because of what you loose in 3d mode) .This was on a 73833 MIts DLP. Had to put in game mode which doesn't let you use brilliant color. I couldn't get good black levels no matter how hard I tried. We took turns turning glasses upside down and such. I also concluded that glasses are supposed to be in reverse mode. Is that right? In standard looks funky to everyone. The content on directv isnt so great. My niece had fun watching it but wants to watch journey to center of the earth. Im not looking forward to it. Here is what I also noticed IR commands from remote cause flashes and blips. Fades to black (recorded in the video) cause flashes and blips. occasionally resynching the 1080p hdmi signal on the tv. Are you getting similar symtoms? This is with the HR21. I gotta say the software on the directv boxes seems like crap the way it is handling the handshaking and such. very slow. I will be able to test on an HR24 soon though as well.


I connected HR21 to HDMI in on mits 3da1, then to input 1 HDMI, relabled to game input to enable FX mode. for 3d glasses, has to be in reverse mode and have to change that everytime you watch ( a bonus for not having hdmi 1.4 I suppose). The 3d emitter goes to box then out to tv I think. just the way it says. I never have to use the remote, not even sure why it has one for the 3da1. This all feels like beta. The glasses are very nice though. (ssg-2200ARx4pair)


What are your thoughts. Is BD that much better than this directv saga.


I queued a crap load of washed out 3d content on N3d though for the DVR.


It all feels like beta. It was cool though, just content is crap for now, downloaded some WC3D as well.


----------



## Daniel Murray

I can change to brilliant in game mode on my WD-65835.


----------



## White_Worm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tariqosuave* /forum/post/18957915
> 
> 
> Just got mine... Sadly I don't have a blu ray player... But I enjoyed Invincible tiger demo. Any other free content that I can use on the 360?



If you can view SBS 3d (probably by way of the Mits 3DA-1 converter) then you can look for a game in the "indie games" section called 3d infinity, or something like that. Just choose "browse all" and its near the top. It has a free demo, but doesn't output in checkerboard, just SBS.


----------



## nc88keyz

maybe if enought people complain to mits they will enable brilliant in 3d mode on the x33 series sets from 2007. this could be done via firmware obviously. ive already 1 or 2 upgrades on that set i think via usb.


its been a while though, hard to remember.


it appears i plugged up the ir emitter reverse which would explain the requirement for reverse mode.


its a simple mistake i suppose.


i think if the x33 sets had brilliant there wouldnt be so many commenting on very green tint and loss of blacks.


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nc88keyz* /forum/post/18959037
> 
> 
> maybe if enought people complain to mits they will enable brilliant in 3d mode on the x33 series sets from 2007. this could be done via firmware obviously. ive already 1 or 2 upgrades on that set i think via usb.
> 
> 
> i think if the x33 sets had brilliant there wouldnt be so many commenting on very green tint and loss of blacks.



So Is that what everyone's doing? Setting the picture mode to "Brilliant" when turning on 3D mode?


----------



## nc88keyz

who knows. I swapped the emitter and the tv cable and it still only looks right in reverse.


My 3d only looks right in reverse. Is that what the manual says? just curious. I hate reading the instructions










Brilliant would be nice. PC mode give you some more options , but pretty much same. No matter what i do though reverse mode on 3d looks the best.


I could have swore we watched the safari adv on directv though in normal the first time.


----------



## id10tech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nc88keyz* /forum/post/18958802
> 
> 
> So we watched african imax adventure tonight. The dtv stuff looks kinda dulling. ..yellow green. (really had to tweak the color, brightness etc because of what you loose in 3d mode) .This was on a 73833 MIts DLP. Had to put in game mode which doesn’t let you use brilliant color. I couldn’t get good black levels no matter how hard I tried. We took turns turning glasses upside down and such. I also concluded that glasses are supposed to be in reverse mode. Is that right? In standard looks funky to everyone. The content on directv isnt so great. My niece had fun watching it but wants to watch journey to center of the earth. Im not looking forward to it. Here is what I also noticed IR commands from remote cause flashes and blips. Fades to black (recorded in the video) cause flashes and blips. occasionally resynching the 1080p hdmi signal on the tv. Are you getting similar symtoms? This is with the HR21. I gotta say the software on the directv boxes seems like crap the way it is handling the handshaking and such. very slow. I will be able to test on an HR24 soon though as well.
> 
> 
> I connected HR21 to HDMI in on mits 3da1, then to input 1 HDMI, relabled to game input to enable FX mode. for 3d glasses, has to be in reverse mode and have to change that everytime you watch ( a bonus for not having hdmi 1.4 I suppose). The 3d emitter goes to box then out to tv I think. just the way it says. I never have to use the remote, not even sure why it has one for the 3da1. This all feels like beta. The glasses are very nice though. (ssg-2200ARx4pair)
> 
> 
> What are your thoughts. Is BD that much better than this directv saga.
> 
> 
> I queued a crap load of washed out 3d content on N3d though for the DVR.
> 
> 
> It all feels like beta. It was cool though, just content is crap for now, downloaded some WC3D as well.



EDIT - Anone have any feedback regarding Cox's 3D channels?


----------



## walford




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nc88keyz* /forum/post/18959436
> 
> 
> who knows. I swapped the emitter and the tv cable and it still only looks right in reverse.
> 
> 
> My 3d only looks right in reverse. Is that what the manual says? just curious. I hate reading the instructions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brilliant would be nice. PC mode give you some more options , but pretty much same. No matter what i do though reverse mode on 3d looks the best.
> 
> 
> I could have swore we watched the safari adv on directv though in normal the first time.



Reverse is used to account for procsssing time delys in the TV which cause the output for the left eye to be sent to the right eye and vice-versa. You should not be trying to eliminate the rquirement for it.


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nc88keyz* /forum/post/18959436
> 
> 
> who knows. I swapped the emitter and the tv cable and it still only looks right in reverse.
> 
> 
> My 3d only looks right in reverse. Is that what the manual says? just curious. I hate reading the instructions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brilliant would be nice. PC mode give you some more options , but pretty much same. No matter what i do though reverse mode on 3d looks the best.
> 
> 
> I could have swore we watched the safari adv on directv though in normal the first time.



That is stange, I have a similar set up with an HR22, WD 73833, the mits adabtor in between and I do NOT have to put it in reverse...oh and I am using the mits glasses....I think someone said that with the Xpands you needed to go to reverse?


Someone mentioned firmware updates for the 833s via USB port. Is that download on the mitz site???


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/18959968
> 
> 
> Reverse is used to account for procsssing time delys in the TV which cause the output for the left eye to be sent to the right eye and vice-versa.



If that were the case, then it would have to be a variable setting rather than two positions, because the processing time between different TVs could be variable, not just 0ms or 8ms. And why would a TV even need a manual setting to account for this, wouldn't a given display already know what it's own processing time is? Besides, the emitter output it downstream of the image processing circuits. It's in sync with the wobulator actuator. So internal delays are moot at this point.


The "reverse" mode is intended to account for either glasses that are inherently the opposite of what the TV expects, or content that is encoded the opposite.


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nc88keyz* /forum/post/18959037
> 
> 
> maybe if enought people complain to mits they will enable brilliant in 3d mode on the x33 series sets from 2007. this could be done via firmware obviously. ive already 1 or 2 upgrades on that set i think via usb.
> 
> 
> its been a while though, hard to remember.
> 
> 
> it appears i plugged up the ir emitter reverse which would explain the requirement for reverse mode.
> 
> 
> its a simple mistake i suppose.
> 
> 
> i think if the x33 sets had brilliant there wouldnt be so many commenting on very green tint and loss of blacks.





Don't feel bad I messed with the connections, 3d mode on/off, reverse normal etc for almost 45 minutes until I realized that I had to press the on button on top of the mitz glasses!!!


----------



## JamesN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nc88keyz* /forum/post/18959037
> 
> 
> maybe if enought people complain to mits they will enable brilliant in 3d mode on the x33 series sets from 2007...i think if the x33 sets had brilliant there wouldnt be so many commenting on very green tint and loss of blacks.



I have a 37 series set, which _does_ allow for Brilliant Picture Mode when 3D is engaged. Trust me: you don't want Brilliant mode enabled in 3D because in that mode significant ghosting is introduced. Also, Brilliant Mode does nothing to correct the color shift and black loss in 3D.


----------



## walford




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18960682
> 
> 
> If that were the case, then it would have to be a variable setting rather than two positions, because the processing time between different TVs could be variable, not just 0ms or 8ms. And why would a TV even need a manual setting to account for this, wouldn't a given display already know what it's own processing time is? Besides, the emitter output it downstream of the image processing circuits. It's in sync with the wobulator actuator. So internal delays are moot at this point.
> 
> 
> The "reverse" mode is intended to account for either glasses that are inherently the opposite of what the TV expects, or content that is encoded the opposite.



AFAIK the actual screen display and the emitter displays are synced to the 60cycle power frequency. So if the emitter does not sync properly with the display Reverse then enabls it to to sync with the next polarity change of the 60 cycle power line. The latesd Samsung firmware provides an adjustment in case the screen display itself is not synched to the power line.


----------



## scarabaeus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/18960773
> 
> 
> AFAIK the actual screen display and the emitter displays are synced to the 60cycle power frequency.



No, that has never been the case. The video frame rate was chosen to be equal to the power frequency to mitigate effects of crosstalk from the power supply. Displays are running synchronous to the sync signal of the incoming video signal.


----------



## Av8tr

I still can't get the 3D to work from the Direct TV box. It works great from the BD. I had it setup between the receiver and TV, but then someone said to hook it up directly from the Direct TV box to the TV. The problem is that there is only 1 HDMI slot on the Direct TV box. How can one set it up that way?


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Av8tr* /forum/post/18960978
> 
> 
> I still can't get the 3D to work from the Direct TV box. It works great from the BD. I had it setup between the receiver and TV, but then someone said to hook it up directly from the Direct TV box to the TV. The problem is that there is only 1 HDMI slot on the Direct TV box. How can one set it up that way?



Just to test you'll need to just feed the HDMI output from the DirecTV receiver directly to the TV, forget trying to connect via the receiver at this time, just to keep things simple. And I'd recommend to reboot the DirecTV receiver after rewiring everything.


----------



## nc88keyz

Does anyone have a newer firmwrae than 9.02 on the 73833. ?


I think that was one that was included in an nvidia 3d vision driver update. It says to place it on USB and flash i believe. Its been a while since i remember, the first fw update was from mits on usb stick .


Those that have samsung ssg2200ags and 3da1 and x33....using norma or reverse for glasses?


Mine look a whole lot better in reverse.


Im also looking for another 3da-1 if the price is slighting below retail shipped to NC. (even better would be emitter and 3da-1). If someone has access to a kit, and can dump the BD on ebay, keep the glasses it might be a good breakup deal for a 3d kit at 359 from tiger with bing.


Just exploring options.


----------



## walford




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scarabaeus* /forum/post/18960857
> 
> 
> No, that has never been the case. The video frame rate was chosen to be equal to the power frequency to mitigate effects of crosstalk from the power supply. Displays are running synchronous to the sync signal of the incoming video signal.



If this is the case then how come the NVIDIA 3D glases are controlled by a sync signal from the PC and not the TV and threfore the processing time of the TV to create the display has no effect?


----------



## tariqosuave

No comcast 3d until Novemeber... That makes me sad.. maybe I'll buy a ps3 though.


----------



## scarabaeus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/18961508
> 
> 
> If this is the case then how come the NVIDIA 3D glases are controlled by a sync signal from the PC and not the TV and threfore the processing time of the TV to create the display has no effect?



The NVidia solution was designed for computer displays (VGA, DVI), which normally do not add any processing delay before displaying a pixel. Only video displays like TVs add such a delay, to do de-interlacing, scaling, filtering etc.


I'm not too familiar with the NVidia solution, but does it have an adjustable delay for the IR signalling? The pass-through delay for any video signal should be constant, so the sending PC can synchronize the glasses to the VSync it is sending out, plus a fixed delay that has to match the display processing down the line.


----------



## PBSengineer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tariqosuave* /forum/post/18961681
> 
> 
> No comcast 3d until Novemeber... That makes me sad.. maybe I'll buy a ps3 though.



Dang. I thought they were supposed to be using ESPN3D -- they have x-games Thursday and next week. But not on Comcast? Comcast wants to pull a truck run to get the 3d at my house working - including just getting some sort of schedule.


Sigh, all decked out for 3D and no stuff to watch.


----------



## wstaffor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PBSengineer* /forum/post/18961843
> 
> 
> Dang. I thought they were supposed to be using ESPN3D -- they have x-games Thursday and next week. But not on Comcast? Comcast wants to pull a truck run to get the 3d at my house working - including just getting some sort of schedule.
> 
> 
> Sigh, all decked out for 3D and no stuff to watch.



3D on Comcast is market by market. Some have it now, some will have it soon, and some still have no time table in place (unfortunately for me, Houston is one of the 3rd types). They shouldn't have to come to your house to enable 3D unless you don't have an MPEG4 box, and even then you could just take your old box to the Comcast store to swap it if you dont want to pay the appointment fee.


----------



## PBSengineer

Well, I'm supposed to have 3D in this market. First phone tech said I couldn't tune to the channels unless they were actually broadcasting, Web tech said no 3D in Tallahassee, e-mail tech says a truck roll is necessary. Methinks there is a great level of non-understanding at the Comcast end.


----------



## mds54

^^^^

Yep, it took me three phone calls and a DVR upgrade to the DCX (MPEG4), but now I have both Comcast 3D and ESPN3D.


----------



## wstaffor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PBSengineer* /forum/post/18961986
> 
> 
> Well, I'm supposed to have 3D in this market. First phone tech said I couldn't tune to the channels unless they were actually broadcasting, Web tech said no 3D in Tallahassee, e-mail tech says a truck roll is necessary. Methinks there is a great level of non-understanding at the Comcast end.



Comcast has a dedicated 3D support 800-number. It's in one of the threads around here, don't have time to look right now. That's the only place you'll get legit answers from Comcast about their 3D. Everyone else is clueless.


----------



## KenBoggs




I have a 73737 and do not have the "green" issue. I have a HD22 DVR connected to a Sony STR DV1000 receiver (1.3 HDMI) said:


> I did some more research and think that is is working because Directv does not need HDMI 1.4. DirecTV is using, a single 1080p frame that holds both the right and left eye's images. The frame is sent at 24 frames per second. The 3d converter receives this signal, splits it into two frames, converts them sequentially and then stretches 'em out. It then converts them to checkerboard format on the output toward the TV. Obviously this isn't as good as Blu-ray, but it uses less bandwidth, allows use of 1.3 HDMI and makes it so DirecTV can just release a firmware update instead of replacing all the set-top boxes.
> 
> 
> In addition I suspect that my receiver is passing the TV's Extended display identification data (EDID) to describe its capabilities to the HR22. If this was not true the HR22 would not be able to tell that my TV can process 3D.
> 
> 
> I doubt that I can pass a Blu Ray 1.4 signal through my 1.3 receiver and get good results. I'd like to know if you agree with my analysis?


----------



## tariqosuave




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *wstaffor* /forum/post/18961953
> 
> 
> 3D on Comcast is market by market. Some have it now, some will have it soon, and some still have no time table in place (unfortunately for me, Houston is one of the 3rd types). They shouldn't have to come to your house to enable 3D unless you don't have an MPEG4 box, and even then you could just take your old box to the Comcast store to swap it if you dont want to pay the appointment fee.



Its not available here yet in Auburn HIlls... But it is available in Pontiac which is a neighboring city. Its almost retarded.


----------



## Zapix

OMG! I tore up HSN support this morning because according to my order status, UPS had only received billing information, and still says it. However, just as the woman I spoke to on the 16th when I ordered, IT ARRIVED TODAY! EXCITED! EXCITED! EXCITED!


I may yet order again from HSN despite the weirdness of their shipping info.


Now to hook this up and officially join the 3D club!


----------



## id10tech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zapix* /forum/post/18962597
> 
> 
> OMG! I tore up HSN support this morning because according to my order status, UPS had only received billing information, and still says it. However, just as the woman I spoke to on the 16th when I ordered, IT ARRIVED TODAY! EXCITED! EXCITED! EXCITED!
> 
> 
> I may yet order again from HSN despite the weirdness of their shipping info.
> 
> 
> Now to hook this up and officially join the 3D club!



Congrats







...personally I will never put myself through this again


----------



## walford




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scarabaeus* /forum/post/18961693
> 
> 
> The NVidia solution was designed for computer displays (VGA, DVI), which normally do not add any processing delay before displaying a pixel. Only video displays like TVs add such a delay, to do de-interlacing, scaling, filtering etc.
> 
> 
> I'm not too familiar with the NVidia solution, but does it have an adjustable delay for the IR signalling? The pass-through delay for any video signal should be constant, so the sending PC can synchronize the glasses to the VSync it is sending out, plus a fixed delay that has to match the display processing down the line.



The Nvidia 3D player supports 3D capable TVs such as the Mits and Sansung 3d capable DLP TVs by supplying 720p/60 frame squential content to the TV over HDMI by connecting the glases to the TV.


----------



## walford




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *KenBoggs* /forum/post/18962272
> 
> 
> I did some more research and think that is is working because Directv does not need HDMI 1.4. DirecTV is using, a single 1080p frame that holds both the right and left eye's images. The frame is sent at 24 frames per second. The 3d converter receives this signal, splits it into two frames, converts them sequentially and then stretches 'em out. It then converts them to checkerboard format on the output toward the TV. Obviously this isn't as good as Blu-ray, but it uses less bandwidth, allows use of 1.3 HDMI and makes it so DirecTV can just release a firmware update instead of replacing all the set-top boxes.
> 
> 
> In addition I suspect that my receiver is passing the TV's Extended display identification data (EDID) to describe its capabilities to the HR22. If this was not true the HR22 would not be able to tell that my TV can process 3D.
> 
> 
> I doubt that I can pass a Blu Ray 1.4 signal through my 1.3 receiver and get good results. I'd like to know if you agree with my analysis?



Only the 2010 xx738 and 838 MITS DLP models support SbS HDMI 1.4a other models such as yours require the Mits 3D adapter to convert DirecTV SbS to Checkerboard which your TV does support.


----------



## White_Worm

This is just nuts.


I got a package from HSN today. I had ordered the "Mitsubishi 3d Home Cinema Kit" (3dc-1000 plus a sony 3d blu ray player) for $600. They sent me a tracking number on friday, and UPS said it would be here today.


So my girlfriend stayed home from work to sign for the package. 5:20 rolls around (and I've been home for more than half an hour) and UPS arrives, carrying a very small package. He doesn't need a signature for it, so I question that its the right package. He reassures me that its right and leaves. So I bring it inside and open the box to find...


an HDMI cable.


Thats it. So I freaked, thinking I had paid $600 for a crappy HDMI cable. I read the shipping list inside the box and it says the kit and player are on a separate order. So I call HSN and ask about this "separate order" business and they have no idea what I'm talking about. And they told me to call back on SUNDAY if I haven't received it so they can give me a refund or send me another one.


Really, HSN, really? Meanwhile, my girl missed a full day of work for NOTHING. But at least my Gefen HDMI detective got here on time (a day early, actually.) Thanks, Amazon! Thanks for nothing, HSN!


----------



## nyc3dwd60738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *White_Worm* /forum/post/18962771
> 
> 
> This is just nuts.
> 
> 
> I got a package from HSN today. I had ordered the "Mitsubishi 3d Home Cinema Kit" (3dc-1000 plus a sony 3d blu ray player) for $600. They sent me a tracking number on friday, and UPS said it would be here today.
> 
> 
> So my girlfriend stayed home from work to sign for the package. 5:20 rolls around (and I've been home for more than half an hour) and UPS arrives, carrying a very small package. He doesn't need a signature for it, so I question that its the right package. He reassures me that its right and leaves. So I bring it inside and open the box to find...
> 
> 
> an HDMI cable.
> 
> 
> Thats it. So I freaked, thinking I had paid $600 for a crappy HDMI cable. I read the shipping list inside the box and it says the kit and player are on a separate order. So I call HSN and ask about this "separate order" business and they have no idea what I'm talking about. And they told me to call back on SUNDAY if I haven't received it so they can give me a refund or send me another one.
> 
> 
> Really, HSN, really? Meanwhile, my girl missed a full day of work for NOTHING. But at least my Gefen HDMI detective got here on time (a day early, actually.) Thanks, Amazon! Thanks for nothing, HSN!



cancel your order go to us -appliance.com u gonna get the starter kit fast


----------



## id10tech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *White_Worm* /forum/post/18962771
> 
> 
> This is just nuts.
> 
> 
> I got a package from HSN today. I had ordered the "Mitsubishi 3d Home Cinema Kit" (3dc-1000 plus a sony 3d blu ray player) for $600. They sent me a tracking number on friday, and UPS said it would be here today.
> 
> 
> So my girlfriend stayed home from work to sign for the package. 5:20 rolls around (and I've been home for more than half an hour) and UPS arrives, carrying a very small package. He doesn't need a signature for it, so I question that its the right package. He reassures me that its right and leaves. So I bring it inside and open the box to find...
> 
> 
> an HDMI cable.
> 
> 
> Thats it. So I freaked, thinking I had paid $600 for a crappy HDMI cable. I read the shipping list inside the box and it says the kit and player are on a separate order. So I call HSN and ask about this "separate order" business and they have no idea what I'm talking about. And they told me to call back on SUNDAY if I haven't received it so they can give me a refund or send me another one.
> 
> 
> Really, HSN, really? Meanwhile, my girl missed a full day of work for NOTHING. But at least my Gefen HDMI detective got here on time (a day early, actually.) Thanks, Amazon! Thanks for nothing, HSN!



That is just crazy.


----------



## njfoses




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JamesN* /forum/post/18962855
> 
> 
> "...go to *us*..." ?
> 
> 
> According to this post you are not "promoting" anything and are just a customer like the rest of us?



I believe the *us* is part of the website. us-appliance.com


----------



## Zapix

OK, so maybe I am losing my mind.


PS3 to the HDMI IN, HDMI OUT to the TV, set the TV (WD73833) to FX Gaming... Turn the PS3 on, no image. I reset the PS3 a couple of times getting the message if I wanted to use the HDMI for video and audio. Selected yes. The screen went black for a moment as if detecting settings, then it goes blue. Left it on, but nothing.


Tried hooking up the cable box, and THAT worked, so I'm running into an issue with the PS3 directly. Any ideas?


I can definately get the cable to work with 3D, but the PS3 display will not go on.



Update @ 10pm EST: I managed to get to the PS3 to display the xmb menu after a several minute wait. The 3D option became available and I enabled it. I went and loaded Wipeout HD which then asked if I wanted to play in 3D. I chose YES and the screen went blue again without. Waited a few minutes, but nothing happened. Reset the PS3 settings again, now waiting for the display to come back on. Anyone else having this problem?


Update @ 11:45pm EST: Managed to get the PS3 working after connecting it back directly to the TV, setting the resolution settings, then hooking it back up through the adapter to enable the 3D. I do have a weird issue though... Sometimes the screen still goes blue and won't display the picture. However, if I change the input to another HDMI source, then back to the PS3-3D, it starts to display the picture. So I'm not sure why I'd have to do that. Also, when the PS3 asks for the TV size, it doesn't appear to work when I set it to 73". I have it set on the default of 65 right now. I doubt that is optimal, but atleast it's working.


Wipeout 3D with the effect raised to 100%... is... MIND BLOWING!


----------



## JamesN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njfoses* /forum/post/18963069
> 
> 
> I believe the *us* is part of the website. us-appliance.com



My apologies to the poster.










There is an "appliance.com" website as well, and I mistakenly thought he was hawking for them. Again, my apologies.


----------



## Daniel Murray

Do you guys thing I would be better off getting the starter kit or 3D Adapter and 102 Glasses? I will have D* on Thursday. I am looking into getting the Panny 350.


----------



## nyc3dwd60738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Daniel Murray* /forum/post/18963309
> 
> 
> Do you guys thing I would be better off getting the starter kit or 3D Adapter and 102 Glasses? I will have D* on Thursday. I am looking into getting the Panny 350.



get the starter kit xpand do rainbows and ghosting


----------



## erg0010

Has anyone been able to find a discrete code to set 3D mode off and on? That would eliminate a lot of button pushing for those with a programmable remote control.


----------



## Zapix

Finally forced myself to turn off the PS3 having been playing Wipeout HD in 3D most of the night. Wasn't all that impressed with Super Stardust or Pain. Downloading demos for Pacific Rift and the MLB game (although I really have no interest in baseball).


Comcast only has a 6 minute trailer about the X-Games, which was cool to watch. Hopefully more content will be available soon.


I still have yet to figure out why I keep having to switch inputs often to get the display to work. Otherwise it acts like there's nothing plugged in. Perhaps a firmware update on the TV would help.


Loving it though. I did notice that as far as viewing angles, it's really good. Having just been to the IMax in Boston last Friday, I noticed that tilting my head made the image blurry as if I wasn't wearing the glasses. My guess is an obvious flaw in SbS 3D. Tried the same thing earlier, and it had no impact on the picture from what I could see. Went to the sides of the room and saw little impact, just a little loss of color perhaps.


The All of my immediate family (parents and my kids) also saw it earlier this evening, and they were all impressed.


----------



## JamesN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/18963951
> 
> 
> get the starter kit xpand do rainbows and ghosting



Not everyone is seeing rainbows on their X102s. I have never witnessed rainbows.


And the ghosting on the X102s is no worse than on IR-based glasses. I have done side-by-side comparisons between XpandD X102s (DLP-Link), e-Dimensional (IR), and IO Display System (IR) glasses and find the level of ghosting is pretty much the same across all three.


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PBSengineer* /forum/post/18961986
> 
> 
> Well, I'm supposed to have 3D in this market. First phone tech said I couldn't tune to the channels unless they were actually broadcasting, Web tech said no 3D in Tallahassee, e-mail tech says a truck roll is necessary. Methinks there is a great level of non-understanding at the Comcast end.



Betcha they have 3D in Gainesville....


----------



## mhetman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JamesN* /forum/post/18964369
> 
> 
> Not everyone is seeing rainbows on their X102s. I have never witnessed rainbows.
> 
> 
> And the ghosting on the X102s is no worse than on IR-based glasses. I have done side-by-side comparisons between XpandD X102s (DLP-Link), e-Dimensional (IR), and IO Display System (IR) glasses and find the level of ghosting is pretty much the same across all three.



I agree, I get no ghosting, no rainbows and no loss in sync with my 102's. Very happy with them.


----------



## PBSengineer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmalter0* /forum/post/18964450
> 
> 
> Betcha they have 3D in Gainesville....



Yea, but it's probably retarded


----------



## DenisG

Amazon order should be waiting for me when I get home.


----------



## White_Worm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenisG* /forum/post/18964891
> 
> 
> Amazon order should be waiting for me when I get home.



Hopefully its what you ordered and not another horror story like mine! Wishing you the best!


I emailed HSN about my order today, hopefully they can tell me a bit more about whats going on. On the upside, I got my Gefen HDMI detective last night and took it to Ultimate Electronics out here in Denver (south). As always, the employees at UE were more than helpful, and easily let me program my Gefen. At least I think its programmed. In any case, I really love UE, its a great experience every time I go there. Now if only they had a program like "reward zone" I'd never have to go to Best Buy again!


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *White_Worm* /forum/post/18964961
> 
> 
> Hopefully its what you ordered and not another horror story like mine! Wishing you the best!
> 
> 
> I emailed HSN about my order today, hopefully they can tell me a bit more about whats going on. On the upside, I got my Gefen HDMI detective last night and took it to Ultimate Electronics out here in Denver (south). As always, the employees at UE were more than helpful, and easily let me program my Gefen. At least I think its programmed. In any case, I really love UE, its a great experience every time I go there. Now if only they had a program like "reward zone" I'd never have to go to Best Buy again!



This is shipped and sold by Amazon. Not a 3rd party though Amazon.


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenisG* /forum/post/18964981
> 
> 
> This is shipped and sold by Amazon. Not a 3rd party though Amazon.



Actually, today it says they are shipped and sold by 'Walt's TV'.


----------



## scrappler

I'm having the same issues as some other posters. I have the 73833/Directv/PS3 w/x102. I have the 3da1 hooked up to the tv and manually switch between dtv and ps3. It took me 20 minutes just to see directv in 3d. i had to restart the hr24 a few times but finally got it to work...once. After switching to a non 3d channel i got only a black screen and no sound. i couldn't get it going again and was too tired to keep restarting the box. the ps3 just wouldn't show up (black screen). after switching restarting everything a few times i finally saw the ps3 screen recognizing the 3d but while navigating through the menus the screen would sort of flicker/pop.


Is there any successful order to starting up the dtv/ps3 to get it to work everytime? should 3d mode on the tv be activated prior to switching on the source?


----------



## Lumpy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/18963951
> 
> 
> get the starter kit xpand do rainbows and ghosting



No ghosting or rainbows here with my X102's. Using a Panny 350 and PS3 w/out the adapter.


They're the 2nd gen glasses that are supposed to have issues, but none for me so far.


Not a peep from 4electronicwarehouse where I ordered mine 6/3.


----------



## Bill Broderick




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Athlon646464* /forum/post/18965028
> 
> 
> Actually, today it says they are shipped and sold by 'Walt's TV'.



That's a nice thing about Amazon. You know who you are actually buying from *before* you place the order.


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bill Broderick* /forum/post/18965347
> 
> 
> That's a nice thing about Amazon. You know who you are actually buying from *before* you place the order.



This is funny - on their web site they say they will beat Amazon's prices!











> Quote:
> MITSUBISHI 3DC-1000
> 
> MITSUBISHI 3D STARTER PACK
> 
> Manufacturer Model: 3DC-1000
> 
> 
> 
> Sale Price: $ We will not be undersold, we beat Amazon, Ebay and others
> 
> Call for the Best most Current Price!
> 
> Call 1-888-638-2730 or Text 1-480-627-9402 or email [email protected] for our most current price!


----------



## Bill Broderick




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lumpy* /forum/post/18965301
> 
> 
> Not a peep from 4electronicwarehouse where I ordered mine 6/3.




They currently have July 30 (this Friday) as their expected ship date.


After being so vocal here in the lead-up to the availabilty of the adapter/starter pack, they've become awfully quiet since other places, including stores that don't specialize in electronics have started shipping them, before 4electronicwarehoue has even received them.


I'm pretty certain that this will be the last time that I order anything from them.


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Athlon646464* /forum/post/18965028
> 
> 
> Actually, today it says they are shipped and sold by 'Walt's TV'.



Order was placed June 3.


Items Ordered Price

1 of: Mitsubishi 3DC-1000 3D HDTV Starter Pack [Electronics]

Condition: New

Sold by: Amazon.com, LLC

$399.00

Amazon Prime: Two-Day Shipping is free



Item(s) Subtotal: $399.00

Shipping & Handling: $0.00

-----

Total Before Tax: $399.00

Sales Tax: $0.00

-----

Total for This Shipment: $399.00


Track your package

Date Time Location Event Details

July 27, 2010 06:50:00 AM Austin TX US Out for delivery

July 27, 2010 06:42:00 AM Austin TX US Arrival Scan

July 25, 2010 07:28:00 PM Memphis TN US Departure Scan

July 25, 2010 12:02:00 AM Memphis TN US Arrival Scan

July 24, 2010 04:30:00 PM Whitestown IN US Departure Scan

July 24, 2010 01:40:00 PM Indianapolis IN US Shipment received by carrier

July 24, 2010 05:08:08 PM --- Shipment has left seller facility and is in transit


-----


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenisG* /forum/post/18965536
> 
> 
> Items Ordered Price
> 
> 1 of: Mitsubishi 3DC-1000 3D HDTV Starter Pack [Electronics]
> 
> Condition: New
> 
> Sold by: Amazon.com, LLC
> 
> $399.00
> 
> Amazon Prime: Two-Day Shipping is free
> 
> 
> 
> Item(s) Subtotal: $399.00
> 
> Shipping & Handling: $0.00
> 
> -----
> 
> Total Before Tax: $399.00
> 
> Sales Tax: $0.00
> 
> -----
> 
> Total for This Shipment: $399.00
> 
> -----



Have you tried to find the 'from Amazon' listing today? Link please?


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Athlon646464* /forum/post/18965551
> 
> 
> Have you tried to find the 'from Amazon' listing today? Link please?



I put the order in with Amazon 2 months ago.

Currently: Sold by Amazon.com

Temporarily out of stock. Order now and we'll deliver when available. We'll e-mail you with an estimated delivery date as soon as we have more information. Your account will only be charged when we ship the item.


Right side under the Add to cart. Where it says, More Buying Choices


----------



## Lumpy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bill Broderick* /forum/post/18965429
> 
> 
> They currently have July 30 (this Friday) as their expected ship date.
> 
> 
> After being so vocal here in the lead-up to the availabilty of the adapter/starter pack, they've become awfully quiet since other places, including stores that don't specialize in electronics have started shipping them, before 4electronicwarehoue has even received them.
> 
> 
> I'm pretty certain that this will be the last time that I order anything from them.



Yeah, I ordered from them when they where 1 of maybe 3 vendors to even acknowledge the existance of the adapter.


Due to the lack of content on D* there isn't any real hurry right now. I'm sure what's on now will be repeated ad nauseum for awhile. I don't really think it's worth it now, to chase every rumor and place multiple orders.


Other than taking pre-orders, early on, there really isn't anything that distinguishes 4ew from any other vendor. Whether I give them my business in the future depends on how they treat me especially on and after friday. As confused as things are right now I wouldn't be surprised if the local Radio Shack already has a rack full of them.


----------



## Hyabusha

I've had my 3D starter pack for two weeks now, and I've used It for mabye 3 times. I really hate the greenish picture my TV makes when 3D Is on. ;(


----------



## Bill Broderick




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lumpy* /forum/post/18965867
> 
> 
> Due to the lack of content on D* there isn't any real hurry right now.



I have the same attitude, which is why I haven't canceled my order and purchased the starter kit from someone else. If they meet their projected date of this week, we should have them in time for the X-Games, which I will likely watch some of, if I have the kit. Otherwise, I don't see myself spending much time watching them.


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/18966012
> 
> 
> I've had my 3D starter pack for two weeks now, and I've used It for mabye 3 times. I really hate the greenish picture my TV makes when 3D Is on. ;(



You must have something wrong. For me, the initial greenish screen completely disappears when I actually watch any 3D content. The PQ is fine.


----------



## rsnyder005

[You must have something wrong. For me, the initial greenish screen completely disappears when I actually watch any 3D content. The PQ is fine.]


I second that-only on blank screen or when I watch 2D with 3D turned on.


----------



## walford




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/18966012
> 
> 
> I've had my 3D starter pack for two weeks now, and I've used It for mabye 3 times. I really hate the greenish picture my TV makes when 3D Is on. ;(



Are you unable to adjjust the colors for the HDMI port that the adapter is conncted to to elimanate the green tint?


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/18966413
> 
> 
> Are you unable to adjjust the colors for the HDMI port that the adapter is conncted to to elimanate the green tint?



No matter what I change in the picture settings, the green tint/haze/blooming won't go away.

When 3D mode is turned on.


----------



## audiopho




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/18966651
> 
> 
> No matter what I change in the picture settings, the green tint/haze/blooming won't go away.
> 
> When 3D mode is turned on.



As a precaution, make sure all cables are tight and secured.

Disconnect/reconnect all hdmi cables if possible.

Does the green effect only appear when the adapter is connected to the tv?

Otherwise you may or could have a defective adapter box.


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/18966651
> 
> 
> No matter what I change in the picture settings, the green tint/haze/blooming won't go away.
> 
> When 3D mode is turned on.



That shouldn't be; I don't have that problem with my 65737--with the same electronics.


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiopho* /forum/post/18966779
> 
> 
> As a precaution, make sure all cables are tight and secured.
> 
> Disconnect/reconnect all hdmi cables if possible.
> 
> Does the green effect only appear when the adapter is connected to the tv?
> 
> Otherwise you may or could have a defective adapter box.



It will happen even when nothing plugged it to the hdmi input.


----------



## TechieSooner

Any chances on someone on the first page willing to edit their post into an FAQ?


Cuz I'm new to this and had a few basic questions. I see the kit online, so here's my Q's:


1) Do you have to have a 3-D capable BR Player? Or is this only if you don't want to have to use the adapter? IE, can my Sony BR Player (not 3-D capable) work with this just fine?

2) If it works just fine, how's it work? The emitter just knows how to sort the signals out into 3-D via black magic?

3) I can pass these signals through my 1.3 receiver it looks like. What with all the hubub about 1.4 being needed for 3-D?


4) Good 3-D content? I'd imagine when Avatar hits shelves it'll be awesome.


----------



## BelB64

I received my kit yesterday, two days before the estimated shipping date. On the ups website thetracking information never indicated ups was in posesion of the kit from the vendor, only that they had a billing statement.


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TechieSooner* /forum/post/18967084
> 
> 
> Any chances on someone on the first page willing to edit their post into an FAQ?
> 
> 
> Cuz I'm new to this and had a few basic questions. I see the kit online, so here's my Q's:
> 
> 
> 1) Do you have to have a 3-D capable BR Player? Or is this only if you don't want to have to use the adapter? IE, can my Sony BR Player (not 3-D capable) work with this just fine?
> 
> 2) If it works just fine, how's it work? The emitter just knows how to sort the signals out into 3-D via black magic?
> 
> 3) I can pass these signals through my 1.3 receiver it looks like. What with all the hubub about 1.4 being needed for 3-D?
> 
> 
> 4) Good 3-D content? I'd imagine when Avatar hits shelves it'll be awesome.



You must have a 3D blu-ray player to play 3D discs.

We all want/need more awesome content.

You must have a 1.4 receiver, because the industry knows how to bleed us for more money.


----------



## TechieSooner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmalter0* /forum/post/18967112
> 
> 
> You must have a 3D blu-ray player to play 3D discs.
> 
> We all want/need more awesome content.
> 
> You must have a 1.4 receiver, because the industry knows how to bleed us for more money.



That sucks. If I have to buy a new BR player I might as well just wait and see if the PS3 will be able to output checkerboard... As that route might be just as cheap as buying a new player anyway (and if it eliminates the need for the adapter all I'd have to buy are glasses and an emitter).


----------



## bhalbower

I have been trying for a week to get the emitter in my starter kit replaced because I have to keep unplugging it and plugging it back in to send the shutter signal to the glasses. They have been giving me the run around and never call me back. Now they want to talk to Vanns’s to see how they can get the emitter replaced. No one at Mitsubishi seems to know anything and they don’t have any way to send me just the emitter. I might have to return the entire kit and wait for it to come back in stock. Why would Mitsubishi release a product that they can’t even support? There documentation states that it is on warranty for a year, but as of now, they don’t have any way of honoring the warranty.


----------



## jjknatl

Has anyone with D* had a message pop up when trying to record a 3D show that is in progress that says the receiver is not authorized?


I have the adapter connected to my HR21-700 and can watch the show in 3D, but because of this pop up I cannot record the show unless I set it to record in advance of it starting.


Also, the channels are still grayed out in the guide, and I still do not have the 3D VOD channel in the guide.


Also, when I view channel 106, I just see a gray screen. No D* logo or anything else. Is this true for everybody right now, or are others seeing the logo or something on channel 106? Want to make sure I am getting 106 in time for X-games this week and the gray screen has me concerned.


----------



## Lumpy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TechieSooner* /forum/post/18967133
> 
> 
> That sucks. If I have to buy a new BR player I might as well just wait and see if the PS3 will be able to output checkerboard... As that route might be just as cheap as buying a new player anyway (and if it eliminates the need for the adapter all I'd have to buy are glasses and an emitter).



There are so many things to consider. Is your TV Samsung or Mitsubishi? Which model BD player (some Sony's can be made 3D capable with a firmware update)? Panasonic makes the only 3DBD players that output checkerboard and don't need the adapter. Only the Avatar and Invincible Tiger games will do checkerboard on the PS3, ever.


There're answers to all your questions in these forums but, unfortunately, you'll have to dig.


----------



## wstaffor




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TechieSooner* /forum/post/18967133
> 
> 
> That sucks. If I have to buy a new BR player I might as well just wait and see if the PS3 will be able to output checkerboard... As that route might be just as cheap as buying a new player anyway (and if it eliminates the need for the adapter all I'd have to buy are glasses and an emitter).



The PS3 can only output checkerboard format for games that support it natively (like Avatar the game). 3D Bluray movies will only output frame-packed format from the PS3. Basically, there is no realistic way around getting the adapter if you want the ability to play 3D from all sources.


----------



## Zapix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scrappler* /forum/post/18965062
> 
> 
> Is there any successful order to starting up the dtv/ps3 to get it to work everytime? should 3d mode on the tv be activated prior to switching on the source?



So far I've been unable to get my 833 to display the source video (3D or 2D) without having to change between HDMI inputs. HDMI-1 is my current 3D input. About 50~75% of the time I have to switch over to HDMI-2 or whatever then switch back to HDMI-1 to get video (2D and 3D) to display on the TV (sometimes I may have to do this a couple of times to get it to work). Just leave the PS3 or cable box on when you do this. It is working as you can get audio from a secondary sound source. Atleast this is the case with my PS3. I have not swapped to my cable box enough to really know if it's the same, because comcast here currently has nothing but a 6 minute short about the X-Games.


My guess is that it's some kind of problem with our first gen 3DTVs, the 833 model. While it's a pain to have to switch inputs constantly between changing games or even turning the PS3 on, I am glad the 3D atleast works, and works really well!


----------



## jjknatl

FYI, I have my setup currently as D*>1.3 4x2 splitter/switch > adapter>TV and have audio going optical from D* to AVR. This seems to work.


However, putting the Sony STR-DG800 between the adapter and the TV would not allow the adapter to activate 3D mode. In other words, when I tuned in D* 3D channels, the D* receiver displayed the non-3D TV message which the adapter passed through the AVR to the TV.


I plan to connect a second D* receiver to the 4x2 splitter/switch so that I will have two D* receivers feeding one adapter. That way, I can record 3D content on either D* receiver and be able to view it.


I don't have whole home media yet, but my understanding there would be that only the DVR connected to the 3D TV would be able to record the 3D content, so even with whole home media you would be limited to the capacity of that one DVR for 3D recordings.


----------



## Bill Broderick




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18967229
> 
> 
> Has anyone with D* had a message pop up when trying to record a 3D show that is in progress that says the receiver is not authorized?
> 
> 
> I have the adapter connected to my HR21-700 and can watch the show in 3D, but because of this pop up I cannot record the show unless I set it to record in advance of it starting.



I don't know why this happens. But, there is a work-around. If you need to record something that it already in progress, you can do so through DirecTV's website.




> Quote:
> Also, the channels are still grayed out in the guide, and I still do not have the 3D VOD channel in the guide.



Based on what DirecTV told me the other day, being grayed out is only supposed to happen when the receiver is not connected to a 3D capable device. So, it's surprising if you have the DVR connected directly to the adapter.


Are you using a custom guide, the "all channels" or "channels I receive" guide? If you're using a custom guide, you need to make sure that you've added the 3d VOD channel to the guide.



> Quote:
> Also, when I view channel 106, I just see a gray screen. No D* logo or anything else. Is this true for everybody right now, or are others seeing the logo or something on channel 106? Want to make sure I am getting 106 in time for X-games this week and the gray screen has me concerned.



I can't help you there. I haven't received my starter kit yet.


----------



## scarabaeus




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *White_Worm* /forum/post/18962771
> 
> 
> But at least my Gefen HDMI detective got here on time (a day early, actually.)



Sorry to hear about your trouble.


Since you mention the Gefen, I assume you have a Samsung DLP? When you ever get that MDC, can you try to connect it to your Samsung without the Gefen inbetween, to see if it works or not? The jury is still out on that. Thanks.


----------



## jjknatl

One observation I have made is that for things I record now on D*, at a time when EDID data is required, the adapter will automatically enter 3D mode.


However, I recorded a few things during the brief period when EDID data was not required and I have to manually turn on the 3D mode of the adapter for that.


So, D* appears to have a 3D content flag enabled together with an EDID flag.


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18967390
> 
> 
> I don't have whole home media yet, but my understanding there would be that only the DVR connected to the 3D TV would be able to record the 3D content, so even with whole home media you would be limited to the capacity of that one DVR for 3D recordings.



Any DirecTV HD DVR can record the 3D channels and then played back via MRV to the one HD DVR that is actually connected to the TV. I've done it and it works. Two things though, the HD DVR's that aren't connected to the 3D TV don't have access to the 3D DirecTV on Demand channel and you can't start a recording for a program currently in progress, only something coming on in the future.


----------



## Daniel Murray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/18963951
> 
> 
> get the starter kit xpand do rainbows and ghosting



Could I use the Mitsubishi glasses with the Panny 350 or do I have to hook up the Kit to it and then re hook up to D* if I want to view there 3D channels?


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rad* /forum/post/18967411
> 
> 
> Any DirecTV HD DVR can record the 3D channels and then played back via MRV to the one HD DVR that is actually connected to the TV. I've done it and it works. Two things though, the HD DVR's that aren't connected to the 3D TV don't have access to the 3D DirecTV on Demand channel and you can't start a recording for a program currently in progress, only something coming on in the future.



Good to know! Can you start an in-progress 3D recording on the DVR not connected to the 3D TV by going online, as Bill Broderick has suggested can be done in the direct connect case and have it work over MRV?


If so, then the only benefit I would get from connecting the second receiver to the splitter/switch once I get MRV would be the VOD channel, which is probably not worth it.


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18967514
> 
> 
> Good to know! Can you start an in-progress 3D recording on the DVR not connected to the 3D TV by going online, as Bill Broderick has suggested can be done in the direct connect case and have it work over MRV?
> 
> 
> If so, then the only benefit I would get from connecting the second receiver to the splitter/switch once I get MRV would be the VOD channel, which is probably not worth it.



I haven't tried it, have to go by what he said, guess you could try it to see if it works for you.


----------



## jrsyjohn

hi all.i got my 3dc-1000 and sony 3d dvd player from hsn yesterday. i needed three inputs, one for the directv, one for the 3d dvd player and one for cablevision.since the 3dc-1000 only have one input this is what i did.i ordered 5 high speed 4ft hdmi cables pid number 4965.came out the 35.82 shipped. than i ordered the 4x hdmi switcher hdx-401e it was around 30.00. hooked it all up and it works great! just wanted to share with you all.

happy viewing!!


----------



## Lumpy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Daniel Murray* /forum/post/18967451
> 
> 
> Could I use the Mitsubishi glasses with the Panny 350 or do I have to hook up the Kit to it and then re hook up to D* if I want to view there 3D channels?



Good question. Sure would suck if you couldn't take advantage of the 350's checkerboard output because you got the kit and don't have DLP-Link glasses. Seems like it could work by just plugging the emitter into the TV and bypassing the adapter. Of course you can go through the hassle of hooking the player up to the adapter while it's set to another 3D format.


You'll still have a fine BD player even if the main reason for getting it is moot.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Daniel Murray* /forum/post/18967451
> 
> 
> Could I use the Mitsubishi glasses with the Panny 350 or do I have to hook up the Kit to it and then re hook up to D* if I want to view there 3D channels?



I may be misunderstanding your question, but there should be no reason why you couldn't use the glasses with the BR player. You don't have to connect the emitter to the kit, you can connect it directly to the TV. With a player that outputs checkerboard, you don't even need the kit. So in your case, you can use the adapter between the DVR and TV, and send the BR signal to another input. Emitter gets hooked up to TV, and therefor works with either input.


----------



## kevin6541




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scarabaeus* /forum/post/18967402
> 
> 
> Sorry to hear about your trouble.
> 
> 
> Since you mention the Gefen, I assume you have a Samsung DLP? When you ever get that MDC, can you try to connect it to your Samsung without the Gefen inbetween, to see if it works or not? The jury is still out on that. Thanks.





I received the 3da-1 yesterday, but not the gefen yet. My setup is the sammy hl61a750, D*tv hr-24, and ps3. I am not running hdmi through an avr and I have thus far been unable to make it work as was expected. The gefen should arrive tomorrow and I hopefully have a source to get the edid programmed.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lumpy* /forum/post/18967698
> 
> 
> Good question. Sure would suck if you couldn't take advantage of the 350's checkerboard output because you got the kit and don't have DLP-Link glasses. Seems like it could work by just plugging the emitter into the TV and bypassing the adapter. Of course you can go through the hassle of hooking the player up to the adapter while it's set to another 3D format.
> 
> 
> You'll still have a fine BD player even if the main reason for getting it is moot.



In my experience, using the Panny with checkerboard is a much smoother process than using the adapter with a non-checkerboard source. So, I'm choosing to run the Panny in checkerboard and bypassing the adapter.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevin6541* /forum/post/18967851
> 
> 
> and I hopefully have a source to get the edid programmed.



Try to program the gefen with the EDID from the mits adapter then feed the adapter output to the gefen and see if that works. If it does, might save some Samsung owners a lot of hassle.


----------



## kevin6541




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18967886
> 
> 
> Try to program the gefen with the EDID from the mits adapter then feed the adapter output to the gefen and see if that works. If it does, might save some Samsung owners a lot of hassle.




It would be great if that works. I will try it as soon as I can.


----------



## DenisG

Looks like the kit got here all in one piece.


----------



## Bill Broderick




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Daniel Murray* /forum/post/18967451
> 
> 
> Could I use the Mitsubishi glasses with the Panny 350 or do I have to hook up the Kit to it and then re hook up to D* if I want to view there 3D channels?



- You should be fine (you're looking to use the same setup as I am).

- Connect HDMI 1 from the Panny directly to the TV

- Depending on your AV receiver, you can connect HDMI 2 from the Panny to the receiver for audio.

- Connect your D* receiver to the adapter and the adapter to the TV.

- Connect the emitter to the TV (not the adapter).


You should be all set to watch either component, using the Mitsubishi glasses, without swapping any cables.


----------



## Impala1ss




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/18966012
> 
> 
> I've had my 3D starter pack for two weeks now, and I've used It for mabye 3 times. I really hate the greenish picture my TV makes when 3D Is on. ;(



Hyabusha - why do you keep posting about a problem that no one else has? You have posted many questions in many forums but seem to have little understanding of your equipment. Have you read any manuals? All the posts in the forums?


Why in God's name don't you call the dealer who sold you the TV? Why don't you call Mitsubishi? Send the TV back. Get a new TV.


For God's sake just do something yourself instead of continually posting here? PLEASE!


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Impala1ss* /forum/post/18968438
> 
> 
> Hyabusha - why do you keep posting about a problem that no one else has?



Actually I've posted that my WD-73735 also gets a green tint as soon as I put the set in 3D and I've seen others post that same issue. I've e-mailed Mits about this and I'm waiting on a response.


----------



## White_Worm

my 3dc-1000 arrived today, hooking it up now. Ill report back soon.


----------



## Daniel Murray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bill Broderick* /forum/post/18968395
> 
> 
> - You should be fine (you're looking to use the same setup as I am).
> 
> - Connect HDMI 1 from the Panny directly to the TV
> 
> - Depending on your AV receiver, you can connect HDMI 2 from the Panny to the receiver for audio.
> 
> - Connect your D* receiver to the adapter and the adapter to the TV.
> 
> - Connect the emitter to the TV (not the adapter).
> 
> 
> You should be all set to watch either component, using the Mitsubishi glasses, without swapping any cables.



Thank you Bill ! That is info I was looking for!


----------



## nc88keyz

833's have really bad green tint as well. This can be fixed with firmware or possiblly service menu if you know where to look. Something drastic happens to the picture in 3d mode on these sets. I havent tested on an 835 but will do in a few days i think. i have access to both.


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rad* /forum/post/18968448
> 
> 
> Actually I've posted that my WD-73735 also gets a green tint as soon as I put the set in 3D and I've seen others post that same issue. I've e-mailed Mits about this and I'm waiting on a response.



Thanks.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nc88keyz* /forum/post/18968797
> 
> 
> 833's have really bad green tint as well. This can be fixed with firmware or possiblly service menu if you know where to look. Something drastic happens to the picture in 3d mode on these sets. I havent tested on an 835 but will do in a few days i think. i have access to both.



Thanks for looking Into this. I look forward to your testing results. A tech Is coming out to look at my set Monday. But I dought he'll have any Idea whats wrong since 3D Is just now going mainstream...


----------



## pistonbrokeagain

Heh Chris, regarding your post regarding HDMI compatibility.....

_"Yes! The user's guide shows using a HDMI 1.3 receiver as a switching source. So that is what Mits is recommending to use multiple 3D sources with it"_


though later you posted the users guide pdf.....

_Connections.pdf_


but that reads that the switching source has to be HDMI 1.4 compliant ?


Reading the entire thread so far, HDMI 1.3 AVR's do appear to pass through 3D ok so i'm just wondering whether my Denon AVR-3808CI (1.3) will work when i (finally) recieve the #DC starter kit from Electronics Warehouse next week. I have the older WD-73833 tv.


Appreciate all the feedback you've provided all of us in advance of getting up and running in Mits 3D land. Thanks


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nc88keyz* /forum/post/18968797
> 
> 
> 833's have really bad green tint as well. This can be fixed with firmware or possiblly service menu if you know where to look. Something drastic happens to the picture in 3d mode on these sets. I havent tested on an 835 but will do in a few days i think. i have access to both.



Why is this an issue?

I get the same thing on my 833 UNTIL I start viewing a 3D program. Then the green tint goes away and the PQ is totally normal.


----------



## cesar2010

Ok i have a c9 n when on 3d mode it does get a blueish/greenish tint which i understand as being normal for 3-D and depth purposes, and this tint is not visible when wearing the glasses.. Therefore im kinda confused with people and their complains is it that different or noticeable. Should post pictures...


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/18969368
> 
> 
> Why is this an issue?
> 
> I get the same thing on my 833 UNTIL I start viewing a 3D program. Then the green tint goes away and the PQ is totally normal.



Even with the glasses on, the blacks are still greenish. Not acceptable when comparing other tv technology's, such as plasma or LCD 3D. I will get a fix somehow.


----------



## bcterp

Same thing occurs on my 73837 with black levels in 3d mode. I have seen this briefly discussed on NVIDIA's forum and it was blamed on the dlp-link light flashes. Hopefully this can be disabled as it is clearly detrimental to PQ. If anyone comes across a solution please keep us informed.


----------



## Y2JDMBFAN

Opened the 3DC1000 kit that was delivered from compusa.com on Monday last night and found that one of the pair of glasses was broken. Should I try to contact Mitsubishi for a replacement or Compusa? Anyone else find broken glasses in their kits?


----------



## Cleverland

It seems that all 3D sources require confirmation of a 3D compatible TV before they will send 3D video. This has caused most of us to do work arounds, bybass our AVR, spliting audio and video etc. I have yet to hear a reason for this requirment..As far as I know sending a 3D video to a non compatible TV does not do any damage. Does anyone know the reason for this requirment?


----------



## JamesN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/18969901
> 
> 
> Even with the glasses on, the blacks are still greenish. Not acceptable when comparing other tv technology's, such as plasma or LCD 3D. I will get a fix somehow.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcterp* /forum/post/18970022
> 
> 
> Same thing occurs on my 73837 with black levels in 3d mode. I have seen this briefly discussed on NVIDIA's forum and it was blamed on the dlp-link light flashes. Hopefully this can be disabled as it is clearly detrimental to PQ. If anyone comes across a solution please keep us informed.



I concur that the DLP-Link "white flashes" are (at least partly) responsible for the perceived reduction in contrast in 3D mode. It makes perfect sense when you think about it -- when 3D mode is engaged and you are viewing the set without shutterglasses, your brain is combining the "normal" images with the "white flashes" and the result is a perceived reduction in contrast (bluish or greenish blacks, as many are reporting).


However, when viewed with shutterglasses, you should *not* be viewing the white flashes in their entirety since they occur during the "blanking interval" between the left/right switch of the glasses. With DLP-Link glasses, the flash should trigger the switch, causing the "open" lens to become opaque, followed by a short interval where both lenses are opaque, and then by the time the other lens becomes transparent the flash should be over. So with glasses on and activated, you should (in theory) be seeing only a very short portion of the flash (much less than without glasses). IR glasses should behave the same even though they are not triggered by the flashes -- that is the flashes should be occurring during the time when both lenses are opaque.


Since the timing and the opacity of the glasses are not perfect, your brain is still going to receive at least some of the white flashes, and this will affect perceived contrast. But the effect should be *considerably* less than without glasses on. In my experience using both DLP-Link glasses and IR glasses, perceived contrast is mostly (but not completely) restored when viewing through shutterglasses.



AFAIK, DLP-Link cannot be disabled.


Hyabusha: if your perceived contrast levels don't improve *at all* when viewed through shutterglasses, then there may well be something wrong with your particular set. A qualified repair technician should be able to determine whether it is working as designed.


----------



## DenisG

Man the glasses in the kit really do feel flimsy compared to the XpanD X102. These things are huge on my head also. At least they stay on my head better then the Xpands. I might have to take a trip to BB or someplace and look at the Samsung kids glasses, or just grow a big head. :dunno:


----------



## DenisG

Best Buy Mongolia has the Adapter and kits listed on there web sight.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Mitsubis...&skuId=1111858 
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Mitsubis...&skuId=1102526 

*They are listed as back-ordered.*


----------



## audiopho




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenisG* /forum/post/18970891
> 
> *They are listed as back-ordered.*



OOS or BO.

Of course, BB is none better than any other retailers if not worse.

I do think Mits has dropped the ball on this product big time.

I believe either Mits had predicted such a small demand on these or its production yield has been so dismal that the supplies being heavily outweighed by demands.


----------



## audiopho




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Y2JDMBFAN* /forum/post/18970213
> 
> 
> Opened the 3DC1000 kit that was delivered from compusa.com on Monday last night and found that one of the pair of glasses was broken. Should I try to contact Mitsubishi for a replacement or Compusa? Anyone else find broken glasses in their kits?



You should call CompUSA and get a RMA.

Mits as of now from what I've seen, has no way of helping you on that matter.


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiopho* /forum/post/18971068
> 
> 
> OOS or BO.
> 
> Of course, BB is none better than any other retailers if not worse.
> *I do think Mits has dropped the ball on this product big time.*
> 
> I believe either Mits had predicted such a small demand on these or its production yield has been so dismal that the supplies being heavily outweighed by demands.



Not really, it's no worst then any other big product launch. The lucky few get theirs first and the rest follow later.


----------



## pmalter0




JamesN said:


> I concur that the DLP-Link "white flashes" are (at least partly) responsible for the perceived reduction in contrast in 3D mode. It makes perfect sense when you think about it -- when 3D mode is engaged and you are viewing the set without shutterglasses, your brain is combining the "normal" images with the "white flashes" and the result is a perceived reduction in contrast (bluish or greenish blacks, as many are reporting).
> 
> 
> Since the timing and the opacity of the glasses are not perfect, your brain is still going to receive at least some of the white flashes, and this will affect perceived contrast. But the effect should be *considerably* less than without glasses on. In my experience using both DLP-Link glasses and IR glasses, perceived contrast is mostly (but not completely) restored when viewing through shutterglasses.
> 
> 
> 
> I've compared DLP-link to plasma on the same source material, and DLP-link to emitter glasses on the same set, and have seen no reduction in contrast.
Click to expand...


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/18970351
> 
> 
> It seems that all 3D sources require confirmation of a 3D compatible TV before they will send 3D video. This has caused most of us to do work arounds, bybass our AVR, spliting audio and video etc. I have yet to hear a reason for this requirment..As far as I know sending a 3D video to a non compatible TV does not do any damage. Does anyone know the reason for this requirment?



I've seen this question asked elsewhere, and the best answer to it I've seen for the reasoning behind it is that it comes from the attitude of the folks selling the 3D source products (DVR's, B-ray Players, Adapters, PS3's etc.).


They are all afraid of too many tech support calls from folks _without_ 3D TV's wondering why their new 3D device will not work on their TV to make it show 3D. They think the vast majority of consumers would be that ignorant. Could be true...










The problem is, of course, for the rest of us. It's a pain in the you know what, and worse when it won't work at all. It reminds me of DRM - we all have to suffer because of the criminals who steal media.


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenisG* /forum/post/18970856
> 
> 
> Man the glasses in the kit really do feel flimsy compared to the XpanD X102. These things are huge on my head also. At least they stay on my head better then the Xpands. I might have to take a trip to BB or someplace and look at the Samsung kids glasses, or just grow a big head. :dunno:



I agree about the flimsiness, they feel like a pair of $3 sunglasses; but I have finally found an advantage to a fat head.


----------



## rad

The respons to the e-mail about the green tint from Mits:

_"The MDEA personnel best equipped to answer your inquiry are our MDEA Operational Assistance Representatives at 800-332-2119. Our expert representatives are well-versed in the hook-up and day-to-day operations of MDEA product. Operational Assistance Representatives are available: Monday - Friday 9am-8pm Eastern Time. Saturday 9am-5pm. Sunday 1-5pm"_


----------



## JamesN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmalter0* /forum/post/18971227
> 
> 
> I've compared DLP-link to plasma on the same source material, and DLP-link to emitter glasses on the same set, and have seen no reduction in contrast.



I'm not sure whether you are agreeing or disagreeing with my post. Perhaps "perceived contrast" is a poor choice of terminology on my part. I was referring to the reduction in black level, that washed-out look, that folks are reporting when 3D mode is engaged. Some are characterizing it as a greenish cast, and others as a bluish cast.


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Athlon646464* /forum/post/18971235
> 
> 
> I've seen this question asked elsewhere, and the best answer to it I've seen for the reasoning behind it is that it comes from the attitude of the folks selling the 3D source products (DVR's, B-ray Players, Adapters, PS3's etc.).
> 
> 
> They are all afraid of too many tech support calls from folks _without_ 3D TV's wondering why their new 3D device will not work on their TV to make it show 3D. They think the vast majority of consumers would be that ignorant. Could be true...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The problem is, of course, for the rest of us. It's a pain in the you know what, and worse when it won't work at all. It reminds me of DRM - we all have to suffer because of the criminals who steal media.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/18970351
> 
> 
> It seems that all 3D sources require confirmation of a 3D compatible TV before they will send 3D video. This has caused most of us to do work arounds, bybass our AVR, spliting audio and video etc. I have yet to hear a reason for this requirment..As far as I know sending a 3D video to a non compatible TV does not do any damage. Does anyone know the reason for this requirment?



Pain in the b%@# is an understatement. I remember when the talk of 3D was first getting started (modern 3D that is). I was joking with some friends saying "I wonder how they (the manufacturers) will screw this one up, after the VHS/Bata, Blu Ray/HD DVD fiasco's!" Well this one seems much worse because of multiple layers of compatibility issues and things like this 3D tv detection requirment which just seems kind of stupid. Although I doubt that the manufactures are really that stipid are they?


----------



## budbedwell

I've seen quite a few posts about problems with tint, and while I don't remember the specific TVs and glasses being used, I suspect the problem may be, at least in some cases, a compatibility problem between the glasses and the TV. Glasses for Samsung and Mitsubishi TVs should have a greenish tint, while glasses for Sony and Panasonic TVs should have an amber tint. XpanD and Monster are working on supposedly "universal" glasses for later this year (I'm not sure how they'll solve the tint issue), but in the meantime, I think you need to match glasses and TV. There have been several articles on the issue. I can't post URLs, since this is my first post, but google universal 3d glasses consumers beware of incompatibility.


----------



## Geaux Tigers

I have searched and have not been able find an answer to my problem. I am watching 3D on my Samsung HL61A750 3D ready DLP using a Gefen HDMI Detective Plus programmed with the EDID from a Mitsubishi 3D ready DLP. I am running the HDMI out on my Gefen to the input of my Onkyo TX-SR805 A/V receiver. I am then running the HDMI from my Onkyo to my Samsung HL61A750. The 3D picture is great but the audio is being limited to 2.0. Before this I was getting full surround from my HDMI connection. My only current 3D source is a DirecTv HR24-500. I have solved the problem by using a Toslink cable to provide the audio connection. However, this will present a problem after my PS3 gets a 3D FW upgrade.


Has anyone else experience this and do you know of a solution or have a suggestion? Thanks.


----------



## Lumpy

Still patiently waiting for my order from 4EW. Today (7/28/2010) is sort of a red letter day as this has been their estimated ship date for a couple of months.


I checked my order status at their site and now the estimated ship date shows 6/18/2010.


----------



## Darin

It's probably just a typo. On the year.


----------



## Lumpy

Ah!







Don't say that.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/18969901
> 
> 
> Even with the glasses on, the blacks are still greenish. Not acceptable when comparing other tv technology's, such as plasma or LCD 3D. I will get a fix somehow.



If you have D* and can watch the Peter Gabriel 3D show, his black piano occupies a lot of the screen for most of the show. That piano definitely has a greenish look to it WHEN WEARING THE STARTER KIT GLASSES.


However, when I tried the optoma zd101 glasses, the green is gone. I had commented in another thread how the x102s appeared to have a haze when compared side by side with the optomas, and I'll say the same for the starter kit glasses.


The optoma glasses have great PQ. However, they sync in reverse and I wanted the rechargeable kids glasses which sync in standard so I can't use the optomas for that reason. Plus, the optomas have true vertical/horizonatl polarizing layers which revealed the rainbows on my TV but if you don't see the rainbows with x102 you wont' see them with optomas.


Hyabusha, I would be interested in swapping my optoma glasses for one of your starter kit glasses. Interested?


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Geaux Tigers* /forum/post/18971504
> 
> 
> I have searched and have not been able find an answer to my problem. I am watching 3D on my Samsung HL61A750 3D ready DLP using a Gefen HDMI Detective Plus programmed with the EDID from a Mitsubishi 3D ready DLP. I am running the HDMI out on my Gefen to the input of my Onkyo TX-SR805 A/V receiver. I am then running the HDMI from my Onkyo to my Samsung HL61A750. The 3D picture is great but the audio is being limited to 2.0. Before this I was getting full surround from my HDMI connection. My only current 3D source is a DirecTv HR24-500. I have solved the problem by using a Toslink cable to provide the audio connection. However, this will present a problem after my PS3 gets a 3D FW upgrade.
> 
> 
> Has anyone else experience this and do you know of a solution or have a suggestion? Thanks.



I believe that the D* DVR box only outputs 2.0 to the mits TV or adapter. When I connect D* DVR direct to the TV or adapter and then audio out of the TV to an AVR, I only get 2.0. But when I connect my D* Tivo to the TV or adapter, I get 5.1 out of the TV to the AVR. So, the D* DVR is the issue for me.


So, I also connect the Toslink from the D* DVR to the AVR and connect the D* DVR direct to the adapter and the adapter direct to the TV. If the problem is D* DVR related, which I believe it is based on my Tivo distinction above, the PS3 may not have the limitation that the D* DVR has. So, maybe wait it out and see.


----------



## Geaux Tigers




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18972491
> 
> 
> I believe that the D* DVR box only outputs 2.0 to the mits TV or adapter. When I connect D* DVR direct to the TV or adapter and then audio out of the TV to an AVR, I only get 2.0. But when I connect my D* Tivo to the TV or adapter, I get 5.1 out of the TV to the AVR. So, the D* DVR is the issue for me.
> 
> 
> So, I also connect the Toslink from the D* DVR to the AVR and connect the D* DVR direct to the adapter and the adapter direct to the TV. If the problem is D* DVR related, which I believe it is based on my Tivo distinction above, the PS3 may not have the limitation that the D* DVR has. So, maybe wait it out and see.



Before I connected the Mitsubishi 3DA-1 and the Gefen HDMI Detective, the HR24-500 was outputting 5.1 to my Onkyo TX-SR805. I wonder why the DirecTv HR24-500 would be doing this and other equipment would not? Has anyone else experienced this?


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Geaux Tigers* /forum/post/18972698
> 
> 
> Before I connected the Mitsubishi 3DA-1 and the Gefen HDMI Detective, the HR24-500 was outputting 5.1 to my Onkyo TX-SR805. I wonder why the DirecTv HR24-500 would be doing this and other equipment would not? Has anyone else experienced this?



The DVR box sees an AVR versus seeing a TV, via the information exchanged over HDMI. It outputs 2.0 the to TV, 5.1 to the AVR based on what it believes the capabilities of the connected device are. Other devices such as my Tivo either output 5.1 regardless of the connected device via HDMI or conclude that that TV/adapter has 5.1 ability.


IF your TV has the ability to output 5.1 via the digital output from an HDMI source, then test the PS3 now by connecting directly to your TV and then using the digital out of the TV to the AVR and see if you get 5.1 or 2.0. If you do get 5.1, I'd say you'll be fine after the PS3 update.


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rad* /forum/post/18971307
> 
> 
> The respons to the e-mail about the green tint from Mits:
> 
> _"The MDEA personnel best equipped to answer your inquiry are our MDEA Operational Assistance Representatives at 800-332-2119 Our expert representatives are well-versed in the hook-up and day-to-day operations of MDEA product. Operational Assistance Representatives are available: Monday - Friday 9am-8pm Eastern Time. Saturday 9am-5pm. Sunday 1-5pm"_



I've been talking with them for a week now. And they have no Idea. Waiting for my tech visit Monday.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18972387
> 
> 
> If you have D* and can watch the Peter Gabriel 3D show, his black piano occupies a lot of the screen for most of the show. That piano definitely has a greenis
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> h look to it WHEN WEARING THE STARTER KIT GLASSES.



Yes I know the glasses add a slight greenish look.


But my Issue Is when I turn on 3D mode BEFORE I put the glasses on, my screen becomes a wall of green. Blacks turns to green, the menu becomes greenish. Just Ick.


Compare Super stardust on PS3. Play In 2D mode first, look at the nice blacks of space, deep contrast In colors. Then play In 3D mode and watch space become all greenish.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/18972839
> 
> 
> IBut my Issue Is when I turn on 3D mode BEFORE I put the glasses on, my screen becomes a wall of green. Blacks turns to green, the menu becomes greenish. Just Ick.



I know. My point was that the starter kit glasses don't entirely remove the green tint that 3D mode produces. However, optoma glasses do eliminate that green tint. The black piano really looks black.


I'm assuming that you turn your 3D mode on only when you intend to view 3D content while wearing glasses. (Why else would you have 3D mode on?) If that assumption is true, then try the optomas. I think you'll be much happier.


If you choose to use 3D mode while not wearing 3D glasses, can't help you there.


----------



## audiopho




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/18972839
> 
> 
> I've been talking with them for a week now. And they have no Idea. Waiting for my tech visit Monday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I know the glasses add a slight greenish look.
> 
> 
> But my Issue Is when I turn on 3D mode BEFORE I put the glasses on, my screen becomes a wall of green. Blacks turns to green, the menu becomes greenish. Just Ick.
> 
> 
> Compare Super stardust on PS3. Play In 2D mode first, look at the nice blacks of space, deep contrast In colors. Then play In 3D mode and watch space become all greenish.



Is it possible you can test your starter kit with another tv similar to yours?

That would help isolate the green effect you're having and best yet saving the hassle of having a service tech who may come in and possibly starts tearing your set apart.


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18972885
> 
> 
> I know. My point was that the starter kit glasses don't entirely remove the green tint that 3D mode produces. However, optoma glasses do eliminate that green tint. The black piano really looks black.
> 
> 
> I'm assuming that you turn your 3D mode on only when you intend to view 3D content while wearing glasses. (Why else would you have 3D mode on?) If that assumption is true, then try the optomas. I think you'll be much happier.
> 
> 
> If you choose to use 3D mode while not wearing 3D glasses, can't help you there.



So your saying that the wall of greenish tint Is a normal thing for these sets when 3D mode Is turned on?


And no I don't watch 2D stuff with 3D mode on. lol


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/18972839
> 
> 
> I've been talking with them for a week now. And they have no Idea. Waiting for my tech visit Monday.



Very curious to hear what the tech has to say about this.


----------



## Zapix

I agree with the fact that the blacks aren't nearly as black as they are with 3D off, but I sort of thought that that was due to increased brightness needed for the 3D to really work. When I was at a 3D IMax last Friday, I don't recall the blacks being REALLY black either. I could be wrong though and that with the glasses on the brightness should be mostly correctly. Pretty sure you can still correct the brightness, contrast settings though to fix that. I haven't tried it yet though.


----------



## id10tech

Optima DLP link look EXACTLY like X102s


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *id10tech* /forum/post/18973175
> 
> 
> Optima DLP link look EXACTLY like X102s



Can you clarify?


Are you referring to PQ? Or, are you referring to the physical appearance of the frame, lenses etc.?


If the latter, then I think you may have meant they look exactly like viewsonics. I believe they are actually the same glasses, just with different logos. Where have we seen that approach before?


If the former, then I respectfully disagree. To my eye, the optomas have superior PQ relative to x102s.


----------



## GreggyJ

Can anyone with DirecTV help?


I don't have my adapter yet (STILL waiting on Amazon), but my box won't show the 3D channels in the guide. Will they only show up when the adapter is hooked up?


----------



## Av8tr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmalter0* /forum/post/18971287
> 
> 
> I agree about the flimsiness, they feel like a pair of $3 sunglasses; but I have finally found an advantage to a fat head.



I like them much better than the xpands. They are much lighter and much more comfortable. they also look much less ridiculous. I sent the xpands back.


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GreggyJ* /forum/post/18973242
> 
> 
> Can anyone with DirecTV help?
> 
> 
> I don't have my adapter yet (STILL waiting on Amazon), but my box won't show the 3D channels in the guide. Will they only show up when the adapter is hooked up?



Don't know what to say, the 103, 104 and 106 show up in my guide, but you have to select all channels if you don't have them in your favorites list. They will be grayed out but you can schedule a future recording on them.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GreggyJ* /forum/post/18973242
> 
> 
> Can anyone with DirecTV help?
> 
> 
> I don't have my adapter yet (STILL waiting on Amazon), but my box won't show the 3D channels in the guide. Will they only show up when the adapter is hooked up?



which receiver and which software version?


only certain receivers were capable (not HR20s). Also, I believe those channels only show up once your non-HR20 DVR gets the software upgrade. Maybe one of those factors is your problem.


----------



## Av8tr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Bill Broderick* /forum/post/18968395
> 
> 
> - You should be fine (you're looking to use the same setup as I am).
> 
> - Connect HDMI 1 from the Panny directly to the TV
> 
> - Depending on your AV receiver, you can connect HDMI 2 from the Panny to the receiver for audio.
> 
> - Connect your D* receiver to the adapter and the adapter to the TV.
> 
> - Connect the emitter to the TV (not the adapter).
> 
> 
> You should be all set to watch either component, using the Mitsubishi glasses, without swapping any cables.



I am setup very similar to you, but for some reason can't get the emitter to work. I've been watching 3d just fine with the emitter from my Panny 350, but when I run an HDMI cable from the Direct tv box to the adaptor and then to the tv, for some reason the emitter doesn't come on. I've tried plugging into the TV and into the adaptor but no joy. I can see the 3d signal showing on the TV but of course the glasses don't work without the emitter.


It's too bad I just sent the xpands back, but I'm sure I can get this to work eventually.


----------



## walford

Av8tr,What model D* reciver do you have and what 3D channel(S) on D* are you trying to watch?


----------



## Av8tr

Never mind. Stupid mistake. I didn't have the TV set to 3D. It's strange though, because the TV was showing the typical 3d look that you see when you're not wearing the glasses.


I don't want to have to switch cables all the time of course. Can i get an adaptor that takes the one HDMI cable out of the DVR and turns it into 2? That way I can plug one into the AVR and one into the Mits 3d adaptor.


I also have an ethernet adaptor coming from Amazon tomorrow, so I can have access to my pc. I intend to hook it up to my AVR, BD, and DVR. What benefits will that give me once I connect it to my home wireless network?


I was watching the N 3d channel. Looks very good. The piano is pitch shiny black. no green.


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Av8tr* /forum/post/18973549
> 
> 
> I don't want to have to switch cables all the time of course. Can i get an adaptor that takes the one HDMI cable out of the DVR and turns it into 2?



I did, as a splitter, and it works great on my system!

Make sure that it's rev 1.3b.

Here's what I got:

http://sewelldirect.com/Sewell-HDMI-...itter-v13b.asp


----------



## twatkins521

Got my 3DC-1000 today. I have a 65in 833 and the screen definitely turns blacks to greenish-black when 3D FX mode is on.


Also, the unit will only power up when it is turned vertically on it's side. Turn it horizontally and it never lights up the power light no matter what I do. Called Mitsubishi and they say that is normal.


Can anyone else get the unit to power up sitting horizontally one it's rubber feet.


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *twatkins521* /forum/post/18973803
> 
> 
> Got my 3DC-1000 today. I have a 65in 833 and the screen definitely turns blacks to greenish-black when 3D FX mode is on.



Yep, but not once you start watching actual 3D content, right? I have the exact same TV.



> Quote:
> Also, the unit will only power up when it is turned vertically on it's side. Turn it horizontally and it never lights up the power light no matter what I do. Called Mitsubishi and they say that is normal.
> 
> Can anyone else get the unit to power up sitting horizontally one it's rubber feet.



I have mine placed vertically in the holder now, but for the first few days I had it sitting horizontally on it's pads, and it worked just fine. I don't see how Mits could say that's normal.


----------



## twatkins521




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, but not once you start watching actual 3D content, right? I have the exact same TV.
> 
> 
> I have mine placed vertically in the holder now, but for the first few days I had it sitting horizontally on it's pads, and it worked just fine. I don't see how Mits could say that's normal.



Mine still has a greenish tint to it even when I am watching 3D content. Actually, everything has a greenish tint to it when the 3D FX mode is on. When I turn the 3D FX mode off the greenish tint goes away.


I thought the Mits rep was blowing smoke. Turn it on it's side, it powers up. Turn it horizontally, it goes off even without pressing the power button. I may just return it for a new unit. It has to have some type of short circuit in it.


BTW - What FW is your set running? Mine has 9.02 installed.


----------



## GreggyJ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18973367
> 
> 
> which receiver and which software version?
> 
> 
> only certain receivers were capable (not HR20s). Also, I believe those channels only show up once your non-HR20 DVR gets the software upgrade. Maybe one of those factors is your problem.



I've got an HR21-100 and I know it has the software upgrade because it notified me of the 3D capabilities last time it upgraded.


I'll fiddle around with the channel settings and see what I can find.


Edit: I messed with the favorites guide (thanks for the suggestion, rad) and they showed up, but any time I try and record one, it gives me the "This receiver may not be authorized to view this programming" message and, no matter how many times I click "OK," won't let me record it










Any thoughts on a fix?


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *twatkins521* /forum/post/18973975
> 
> 
> Mine still has a greenish tint to it even when I am watching 3D content. Actually, everything has a greenish tint to it when the 3D FX mode is on. When I turn the 3D FX mode off the greenish tint goes away.



I haven't noticed it.

Have you tweaked the TV AV settings/colors for FX Game mode?



> Quote:
> I thought the Mits rep was blowing smoke. Turn it on it's side, it powers up. Turn it horizontally, it goes off even without pressing the power button. I may just return it for a new unit. It has to have some type of short circuit in it. BTW - What FW is your set running? Mine has 9.02 installed.



I'll check later tonight. I know Mits sent me a FW update after I bought the TV, but I never installed it.


----------



## audiopho

CompUsa has the starter kit in stock.

http://www.compusa.com/applications/...588&CatId=5481


----------



## yesan

Trying to track down an emitter and it appears that the Mitsu site does not appear to be selling on the website any more. Does anyone know of where else I would be able to track on down? Thanks.


----------



## Darin

You can call them and order it, see the "glasses & emitter available separately" thread.


----------



## khee mao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *twatkins521* /forum/post/18973803
> 
> 
> Can anyone else get the unit to power up sitting horizontally one it's rubber feet.



yes


----------



## Cleverland

Can anyone else get the unit to power up sitting horizontally one it's rubber feet.[/quote]


Yes!


----------



## id10tech

Question about the DVD that comes with the starter pack:


- At the beginning it tells me no 3D display and/or 3D BR player is detected.


- I manage to continue and nothing is in 3D form anyway.


Is there no 3D content on this?


I'm using a Mits WD-65C9 and a PS3


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *id10tech* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Question about the DVD that comes with the starter pack:
> 
> 
> - At the beginning it tells me no 3D display and/or 3D BR player is detected.
> 
> 
> - I manage to continue and nothing is in 3D form anyway.
> 
> 
> Is there no 3D content on this?
> 
> 
> I'm using a Mits WD-65C9 and a PS3



Heh, ps3 cant play 3d bluray yet until the fw upgrade in the fall...


----------



## id10tech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Quatre* /forum/post/18974638
> 
> 
> Heh, ps3 cant play 3d bluray yet until the fw upgrade in the fall...



Cool. Relieved that I did all I could do. Thanks for the heads up


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/18974043
> 
> 
> I'll check later tonight. I know Mits sent me a FW update after I bought the TV, but I never installed it.



I'm still on 9.01

I don't see any need to update.


----------



## Zapix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/18974903
> 
> 
> I'm still on 9.01
> 
> I don't see any need to update.



I'm on 9.00 myself. Thinking a fw update might correct my minor bowing issue in 4:3 and hoping it might fix my problem of having to constantly change between HDMI inputs to get the source going through the adapter to display. More for the input changing though, it's pretty annoying after a while.


----------



## Hypermobius

Just picked up a starter pack yesterday. I got a chance today to try out the PS3 3D gaming and was very happy with the results. The real test for me was trying out Arcsoft's TotalMedia Theatre's 3d plugin which converts almost all video files (or DVD's..etc) to 3d on the fly. I connected my PC to the adapter and after some fiddling fired up some movie files. All of the ones I tried worked great (mkv, avi,..etc). more importantly, though, it has expanded my 3d library (via conversion) exponentially


----------



## id10tech




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18973201
> 
> 
> Can you clarify?
> 
> 
> Are you referring to PQ? Or, are you referring to the physical appearance of the frame, lenses etc.?
> 
> 
> If the latter, then I think you may have meant they look exactly like viewsonics. I believe they are actually the same glasses, just with different logos. Where have we seen that approach before?
> 
> 
> If the former, then I respectfully disagree. To my eye, the optomas have superior PQ relative to x102s.



yeah, you're right. I was going off memory. Only used my X102s for an hour or so.


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zapix* /forum/post/18975098
> 
> 
> I'm on 9.00 myself. Thinking a fw update might correct my minor bowing issue in 4:3 and hoping it might fix my problem of having to constantly change between HDMI inputs to get the source going through the adapter to display. More for the input changing though, it's pretty annoying after a while.



How do you check for FW version? Also where can you go to find the latest FW to download?


----------



## mrmits

I have a mits Wd-65833 (fw 9.1) and a DTV HR24-500. Everything works well, no green tint, but fx gaming mode is definitely darker


HOWEVER- whenever i change channels on the hr24 whether its to or from 3d or from 2d to 2d- doesnt matter- i get blue screen. turn off adapter and then back on- i get picture. So for now I am bypassing the adapter and using it only when I want 3D.


anyone else having this kind of issue? Im thinking i have a bad adapter.


----------



## jjknatl

I'm beginning to think the adapter has emitter in/out connectivity just so that the adapter can power the emitter on and off independently of the TV's emitter output. I'm seeing weird behavior with the emitter being connected to the TV, like coming on as soon as the TV is on even if in 2D mode, and staying on after the TV is powered off (unless I turn the TV to 3D mode and then back to 2D mode to turn off the emitter before turning off the TV).


Can someone who is bored







or is curious about this as well who has the emitter connected to the adapter instead of the TV (or who can easily switch to that configuration temporarily to test) perform the following steps for me:


1. with the adapter on in 2D mode and with 2D content playing and the TV in 3D mode, is the emitter on or off?


2. does turning the adapter off even while in 3D mode always turn the emitter off, regardless of the 3D mode of the TV?


3. with the adapter on and 3D content playing and the TV in 3D mode, switch the 3D mode of the adapter to 2D, if possible, and tell me if the emitter light goes off. (wondering if the adapter checks for whether its own 3D mode is active before turning on the emitter).


4. with the adapter on and 3D content playing and the TV in 3D mode, switch to 2D content and tell me if the emitter light goes off. (again, wondering if the adapter checks for whether its own 3D mode is active before turning on the emitter).


5. with the TV and adapter in 2D (and emitter therefore off) and with 2D content playing, turn the TV off, wait 10 minutes to make sure the TV has to fully re-power back up, then TV back on. does the emitter light come on even though the TV is in 2D mode?


Thanks. I would do this myself but I've already re-assembled my system into the recess in the wall and I can no longer access the emitter port of the TV.


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrmits* /forum/post/18976114
> 
> 
> I have a mits Wd-65833 (fw 9.1) and a DTV HR24-500. Everything works well, no green tint, but fx gaming mode is definitely darker
> 
> 
> HOWEVER- whenever i change channels on the hr24 whether its to or from 3d or from 2d to 2d- doesnt matter- i get blue screen. turn off adapter and then back on- i get picture. So for now I am bypassing the adapter and using it only when I want 3D.
> 
> 
> anyone else having this kind of issue? Im thinking i have a bad adapter.



I have the WD 73833, HR22 and have almost the exact same problem. Only I have been turning the HR22 off and then back on to fix the problem...I also need to reprogram my Harmony remote becasue it is causing issues by changing HDMI inputs back to where I used to have them...Man I wish Yamaha would hurry up and release that RX V3067 so I can clean up the cabling!!!


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18976175
> 
> 
> I'm seeing weird behavior with the emitter being connected to the TV, like coming on as soon as the TV is on even if in 2D mode, and staying on after the TV is powered off



That mirrors what I mentioned in this post : when I first tested my glasses, I found they were still sync'd to something after turning off the TV, which puzzled me. Since I don't yet have any content, I haven't tested them much further, but if the emitter turns on with the TV on even without being in 3d mode, that _could_ be a blessing in disguise. It seems there are quite a few that aren't happy with the color changes that happen when in 3d mode. If the emitter can work w/o 3d mode, then that should take care of that issue. If the TV is getting a checkerboard image, it doesn't really have to do anything else to create 3d as long as the glasses are getting the sync signal. The only caveat is that the user would have to disable geometry correction in the service menu. You HAVE to have 1:1 pixel mapping for 3d to work correctly. Normally, these sets have geometry correction on. It would be disabled in 3d mode, but I would EXPECT 3d to work w/o 3d mode IF the emitter is functioning, and geometry correction was manually disabled. I disabled geometry correction two years ago when I first got my set, as maintaining optimal resolution was more important to me than a perfectly square picture (you can't tell except for graphics with straight lines like the DirecTV guide, the taskbar on a connected PC, etc.).


----------



## scrappler




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrmits* /forum/post/18976114
> 
> 
> I have a mits Wd-65833 (fw 9.1) and a DTV HR24-500. Everything works well, no green tint, but fx gaming mode is definitely darker
> 
> 
> HOWEVER- whenever i change channels on the hr24 whether its to or from 3d or from 2d to 2d- doesnt matter- i get blue screen. turn off adapter and then back on- i get picture. So for now I am bypassing the adapter and using it only when I want 3D.
> 
> 
> anyone else having this kind of issue? Im thinking i have a bad adapter.



I have the same problem-I'm using a 73833 and HR24 (Not sure on the FW). When changing to and from 3D I get the blue screen. I've had some luck cycling through the inputs and it sometimes (1 out of 5) picks the signal back up. Last night I picked up another trick which was to switch the mode from "game" to "dvr" and it picked up the Directv 2d signal instantly. It's a little easier than the hit or miss input cycling or waiting for the HR24 to boot up each time you want to change the channel between 3d/2d.

I called Mits yesterday and they are going to escalate the issue but I need to be home to finish the call and get them the info they need which won't be until the weekend. I'll post if I get a good fix for the 833's issues.


Does anyone with an 833 have it working without issues?


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrmits* /forum/post/18976114
> 
> 
> I have a mits Wd-65833 (fw 9.1) and a DTV HR24-500. Everything works well, no green tint, but fx gaming mode is definitely darker
> 
> 
> HOWEVER- whenever i change channels on the hr24 whether its to or from 3d or from 2d to 2d- doesnt matter- i get blue screen. turn off adapter and then back on- i get picture. So for now I am bypassing the adapter and using it only when I want 3D.
> 
> 
> anyone else having this kind of issue? Im thinking i have a bad adapter.



do you have native output turned on, or are you using a fixed resolution output? If you are using native, turn it off and try 1080i fixed res and see if that makes a difference when changing channels. I have experienced similar issues with other HDMI devices and turning native off fixed it.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18976259
> 
> 
> but if the emitter turns on with the TV on even without being in 3d mode, that _could_ be a blessing in disguise. It seems there are quite a few that aren't happy with the color changes that happen when in 3d mode. If the emitter can work w/o 3d mode, then that should take care of that issue. If the TV is getting a checkerboard image, it doesn't really have to do anything else to create 3d as long as the glasses are getting the sync signal. The only caveat is that the user would have to disable geometry correction in the service menu. You HAVE to have 1:1 pixel mapping for 3d to work correctly.



Interesting thought. I experience some of the green issues so I'll try 3D content with 3D mode off later today.


I have noticed that some D* 3D content does not look "correct" on the screen when 3D mode is off when viewing the doubled image with the naked eye. For instance, I've seen one view of an object in the doubled image be washed out with 3D mode off but it looks normally doubled once 3D mode is switched back on. Perhaps that is related to the 1:1 pixel mapping.


----------



## JamesN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18976259
> 
> 
> ...It seems there are quite a few that aren't happy with the color changes that happen when in 3d mode. If the emitter can work w/o 3d mode, then that should take care of that issue. If the TV is getting a checkerboard image, it doesn't really have to do anything else to create 3d as long as the glasses are getting the sync signal...



This is one of the things that make me believe that the only difference between 2D and 3D mode on these sets is the DLP-Link flash (and the IR emitter sync).


I have to wonder why Mitsubishi would intentionally shift the colors in 3D mode, especially when you consider that these 3D ready sets date back to 2007 and Mits didn't start marketing their own branded glasses until a short time ago. If the color shift was an attempt to compensate for the eyewear, then what brand of glasses were they targeting back in 2007?


----------



## TViewer2000

Well I know on the Plasmas and LCD when 3D mode is engaged it will increase brightness and contrast so compensate for the reduced light from the 3D glasses. I bet the Mits are doing the same thing, but maybe certain years or models are effected. Are you able to check and compare your video settings with the 3D off and on?


----------



## yesan

Picked up a starter pack for the emitter and an extra set of glasses - Mitsubishi parts department was no help at all. If someone is interested in the adapter pack from it for retail plus whatever shipping, please PM me. Should arrive next week or so. Thanks.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JamesN* /forum/post/18976712
> 
> 
> I have to wonder why Mitsubishi would intentionally shift the colors in 3D mode, especially when you consider that these 3D ready sets date back to 2007 and Mits didn't start marketing their own branded glasses until a short time ago. If the color shift was an attempt to compensate for the eyewear, then what brand of glasses were they targeting back in 2007?



Perhaps it's not an _intentional_ color shift at all. I don't know how fast the DLP link flash is, but if it's REALLY fast, it could be happening within one color segment of the wheel (green). That would explain why the color shift doesn't seem to be as noticeable through the glasses (if it's happening in between sub-frames, while the lenses are supposed to be closed). The greenish tint _could_ just be a side-effect of DLP link.


----------



## tariqosuave

Hmm I wonder... Would I be able to use Arcsoft total media w/ 3d plugin through window media center extented through to my xbox 360? That would be quite legit if it works.


----------



## Darin

Hmmm, now here's a post that _may_ substantiate my theory:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18972885
> 
> 
> My point was that the starter kit glasses don't entirely remove the green tint that 3D mode produces. However, optoma glasses do eliminate that green tint. The black piano really looks black.



Unless the Optoma's have a noticeably redder tint (when held up to white light) compared to the starter kit glasses, then that would suggest that the only reason for colors to look differently from one pair of glasses to the other would be because of shutter timing. If the Optoma's have a faster response time, or their timing offset (from the sync signal) is a little different from the kit glasses, then they may be completely closed during the DLP link flash, while the kit glasses aren't. *If* the DLP link flash is a specific color, as opposed to white, then glasses that are completely closed during that flash would be immune to the coloring, those that are at least slightly open would impart a color cast over the image.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18976943
> 
> 
> Unless the Optoma's have a noticeably redder tint (when held up to white light) compared to the starter kit glasses, then that would suggest that the only reason for colors to look differently from one pair of glasses to the other would be because of shutter timing.



I will look at the tint more closely later. As best I recall, the optomas do not have a red tint at all, more of a dark gray. I'll also compare tint of the optomas to that of the mits glasses using a white screen.


When comparing the optomas and x102s, the x102s seemed to have a "haze" while the optomas looked very crisp when compared side by side. Shutter timing may be the difference there as well.


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zapix* /forum/post/18975098
> 
> 
> I'm on 9.00 myself. Thinking a fw update might correct my minor bowing issue in 4:3 and hoping it might fix my problem of having to constantly change between HDMI inputs to get the source going through the adapter to display. More for the input changing though, it's pretty annoying after a while.



I read here somewhere that the 9.02 update had to do with potential 1080p geometry issues.


----------



## jjknatl

Can someone who can connect the emitter to the adapter, and who sees the green tint with the emitter connected to the TV, comment on whether the green tint is better or worse with the emitter connected to the adapter? Wondering if the adapter might alter the emitter timing ever so slightly to possibly affect the tint issue.


----------



## Zapix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/18975294
> 
> 
> How do you check for FW version? Also where can you go to find the latest FW to download?



If you didn't find out yet, thr FW version is listed on the top right of the menu screen when you press the [MENU] button. I believe we can get upgrades by contacting Mitsubishi whom will send it out on a USB memory stick.



*@scrappler*

Will be nice to see what Mits has to say about the issue we 833 owners are having. Fortunately, it seems all of us with an 833 have the same problem, which means we can rule out a problem with the adapter. However, it does mean an issue with the TV then.


It makes me wonder if Mits even did any kind of testing with the adapter and the 833 models, or if they just assumed it would work without issue.


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scrappler* /forum/post/18976373
> 
> 
> Does anyone with an 833 have it working without issues?



I do....or at least with issues I have learned to deal with









My setup: Comcast Moto DCX DVR > HDMI to 2-port HDMI 1.3b splitter > output1 direct to WD65833 HDMI input (lableled DVR). Output2 to 3D adapter to WD65833 HDMI input (labeled Game). The sequence I go through between HD and 3D seems to determine blue screens, emitter on/off, etc. but I can always get it to work. My DVR was also set to Native, and I was changing cables manually, or using one cable for both and having the adapter knock the DVR out of Native mode. The splitter keeps that from happening. I have not yet included a 3DBD player, and I still run my AVR with optical 5.1, so it's not affected.


----------



## mrmits




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18976590
> 
> 
> do you have native output turned on, or are you using a fixed resolution output? If you are using native, turn it off and try 1080i fixed res and see if that makes a difference when changing channels. I have experienced similar issues with other HDMI devices and turning native off fixed it.



hmmm...i know i have it on native. when i get home tonite ill switch it and see if that helps.....thanks!


----------



## JamesN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18976793
> 
> 
> Perhaps it's not an _intentional_ color shift at all. I don't know how fast the DLP link flash is, but if it's REALLY fast, it could be happening within one color segment of the wheel (green). That would explain why the color shift doesn't seem to be as noticeable through the glasses (if it's happening in between sub-frames, while the lenses are supposed to be closed). The greenish tint _could_ just be a side-effect of DLP link.


*Exactly.* I've long believed the color shift (green tint, contrast reduction, whatever you want to call it) was an artifact of the DLP-Link flash. But I never thought about a correlation with the color wheel segmentation until you mentioned it. It makes perfect sense.


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zapix* /forum/post/18977065
> 
> 
> If you didn't find out yet, thr FW version is listed on the top right of the menu screen when you press the [MENU] button. I believe we can get upgrades by contacting Mitsubishi whom will send it out on a USB memory stick.
> 
> 
> 
> *@scrappler*
> 
> Will be nice to see what Mits has to say about the issue we 833 owners are having. Fortunately, it seems all of us with an 833 have the same problem, which means we can rule out a problem with the adapter. However, it does mean an issue with the TV then.
> 
> 
> It makes me wonder if Mits even did any kind of testing with the adapter and the 833 models, or if they just assumed it would work without issue.



Thanks Zapix! I'm at 9.01 but will wait to inquire about an update until Mits gets back some of the questions that have been asked,,,,


----------



## shark2br




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *twatkins521* /forum/post/18973803
> 
> 
> Got my 3DC-1000 today. I have a 65in 833 and the screen definitely turns blacks to greenish-black when 3D FX mode is on.
> 
> 
> Also, the unit will only power up when it is turned vertically on it's side. Turn it horizontally and it never lights up the power light no matter what I do. Called Mitsubishi and they say that is normal.
> 
> 
> Can anyone else get the unit to power up sitting horizontally one it's rubber feet.



REPLY.....My Unit Powers up and lights up, either way....Horizontally or Vertically.







; If Your doesn't??? There's something wrong with your Unit.


----------



## audiopho

I turned on between 3d & 2d mode several times.

I do not have the green effect on my 73837 display set.


----------



## nc88keyz

The 835 does not do this either. Its just the 833.


Sounds like that series needs a firwmare fix.


Mitsubishi Are you listening?


835, 837 are both ok .


833s are green in 3d mode almost like a red CRT gun has gone out but these are CRTS now are they???


Time for 9.03 for xx833. Where is the fix already.


***Does anyone rememeber how long it took Sony to fix black crush on component video inputs on the 5300ES.


I do.


Send out the flash on USB already Mits. Better yet post file on web like everyone else does with instructions to CYA.


Ger R Done.


----------



## bcterp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiopho* /forum/post/18978720
> 
> 
> I turned on between 3d & 2d mode several times.
> 
> I do not have the green effect on my 73837 display set.



Are the blacks noticeably lighter in 3d?


----------



## bcterp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nc88keyz* /forum/post/18978742
> 
> 
> The 835 does not do this either. Its just the 833.
> 
> 
> Sounds like that series needs a firwmare fix.
> 
> 
> Mitsubishi Are you listening?
> 
> 
> 835, 837 are both ok .
> 
> 
> 833s are green in 3d mode almost like a Nired CRT gun has gone out but these are CRTS now are they???
> 
> 
> Time for 9.03 for xx833. Where is the fix already.
> 
> 
> ***Does anyone rememeber how long it took Sony to fix black crush on component video inputs on the 5300ES.
> 
> 
> I do.
> 
> 
> Send out the flash on USB already Mits. Better yet post file on web like everyone else does with instructions to CYA.
> 
> 
> Ger R Done.



my 837 has slightly green blacks in 3d


----------



## nc88keyz

I think all 833 owners would wholey agree that green is dominant even with glasses on. At best Green and grey ....create yellowish greens, on the 833s under the glasses.


Its definately something going on here and of course the majority of us never bought the nvidia kit, although there was a firmware upgrade for the 833 or the 835 released on the Nvidia iso for the 3D software. It was downloadable from nvidia and had instruction to place on USB. I cant place the f/w version. If you google it will pop up eventually though.


This definately requires attention from Mits. These were top of the line diamond series sets and not that old at all.


----------



## Hypermobius




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tariqosuave* /forum/post/18976865
> 
> 
> Hmm I wonder... Would I be able to use Arcsoft total media w/ 3d plugin through window media center extented through to my xbox 360? That would be quite legit if it works.



I'll have to try that out myself. I didn't realize that total media could be integrated into WMC. Well that would save a long hdmi cable from my pc to the TV.


----------



## shark2br

I got my 3DC-1000 Yesterday from Paul's....Congratulations.....You Guys are the Best, I ordered on 07/22 morning, by the afternoon they sent me UPS Ground tracking Number,Yesterday 07/28 a received the unit as promised from Paul's. From West Coast to East Coast.


Thanks.


----------



## Hyabusha

I'm glad some of you are noticing the greensih shift In picture quality when 3D Is on.

I just want us Mits DLP owners to share the same quality as the other guys.

I'm hoping Mits can make a software update to address this.

And hoping the TV tech coming out Monday morning Is 3D DLP certified.


----------



## tariqosuave

Don't bother... I couldn't get it to work on my xbox...


----------



## mrmits




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrmits* /forum/post/18977194
> 
> 
> hmmm...i know i have it on native. when i get home tonite ill switch it and see if that helps.....thanks!



ok...took it off native, 2d to 2d works. 2d to 3d works. 3d to 2d- still have to power off the adapter.


need to call mitsu back with serial number, etc. hopefully they are working on a fix like others have said


----------



## twatkins521




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scrappler* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I have the same problem-I'm using a 73833 and HR24 (Not sure on the FW). When changing to and from 3D I get the blue screen. I've had some luck cycling through the inputs and it sometimes (1 out of 5) picks the signal back up. Last night I picked up another trick which was to switch the mode from "game" to "dvr" and it picked up the Directv 2d signal instantly. It's a little easier than the hit or miss input cycling or waiting for the HR24 to boot up each time you want to change the channel between 3d/2d.
> 
> I called Mits yesterday and they are going to escalate the issue but I need to be home to finish the call and get them the info they need which won't be until the weekend. I'll post if I get a good fix for the 833's issues.
> 
> 
> Does anyone with an 833 have it working without issues?



I am using the HR23 series with my WD65833 series. I switched back and forth tonight between ESPN3D and In3d's coverage of the X Games this evening and my set never went to the blue screen. It did go black for a second or two while everything sync'd up but did not go blue as the Mits does at times when they lose the HDMI signal.


Now if I could only clear up the greenish tint and get the box to power up sitting horizontally, I'ld be happy.


Placed a called to Mits on both issues today and got the standard "escalate the issue" line.


I did order a new bulb for the Mits to see if that helps and it really does need a new one after nearly 3 years.


Even with the issues, it's OK for an older set. Now where near the picture quality of our Samsung C7000 LED is in 3D mode. But that TV has been an adventure also.


----------



## twatkins521




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I read here somewhere that the 9.02 update had to do with potential 1080p geometry issues.



Yes, the 9.02 FW dealt with 1080p geometry issues. My set was bowing the edges on the image when in 1080p mode.


After installing, v9.02, the problem was resolved completely.


----------



## cesar2010

I know this is out of the topic, but i was able to sell my Bluray 3-D showcase disc on fleebay for about $76, when u think about it 400-75= 325 for the starter kit it doesn't look so bad after all..


----------



## Cleverland

I have been searching the DirectTV Tech Forums for information on why 3D source boxes have restrictions preventing 3D from working unless they detect a 3D TV. Was also hoping to find a way to disable this feature. I did find one thread which mentioned that there were 3D Blu ray players which had a feature to disable 3D device detection but the person who made the statement has not responded back. (he was probably referring to the Panny 350s two hdmi outputs?) Anyway since I could not find what I was looking for I did send them an email requesting this information...which was escalated up a level..I am not holding my breath but maybe if enough of us inquired about this they might do something???


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/18979923
> 
> 
> I have been searching the DirectTV Tech Forums for information on why 3D source boxes have restrictions preventing 3D from working unless they detect a 3D TV. Was also hoping to find a way to disable this feature. ... I am not holding my breath but maybe if enough of us inquired about this they might do something???



That's what I'm say'in!







See here .


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/18979923
> 
> 
> I have been searching the DirectTV Tech Forums for information on why 3D source boxes have restrictions preventing 3D from working unless they detect a 3D TV. Was also hoping to find a way to disable this feature. I did find one thread which mentioned that there were 3D Blu ray players which had a feature to disable 3D device detection but the person who made the statement has not responded back. (he was probably referring to the Panny 350s two hdmi outputs?) Anyway since I could not find what I was looking for I did send them an email requesting this information...which was escalated up a level..I am not holding my breath but maybe if enough of us inquired about this they might do something???



From another thread:



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/18970351
> 
> 
> It seems that all 3D sources require confirmation of a 3D compatible TV before they will send 3D video. This has caused most of us to do work arounds, bybass our AVR, spliting audio and video etc. I have yet to hear a reason for this requirment..As far as I know sending a 3D video to a non compatible TV does not do any damage. Does anyone know the reason for this requirment?



My reply:



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Me (Athlon646464)* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I've seen this question asked elsewhere, and the best answer to it I've seen for the reasoning behind it is that it comes from the attitude of the folks selling the 3D source products (DVR's, B-ray Players, Adapters, PS3's etc.).
> 
> 
> They are all afraid of too many tech support calls from folks _without_ 3D TV's wondering why their new 3D device will not work on their TV to make it show 3D. They think the vast majority of consumers would be that ignorant. Could be true...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The problem is, of course, for the rest of us. It's a pain in the you know what, and worse when it won't work at all. It reminds me of DRM - we all have to suffer because of the criminals who steal media.



Perfect example what I said:



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TechieSooner* /forum/post/18967084
> 
> 
> Any chances on someone on the first page willing to edit their post into an FAQ?
> 
> 
> Cuz I'm new to this and had a few basic questions. I see the kit online, so here's my Q's:
> 
> 
> 1) Do you have to have a 3-D capable BR Player? Or is this only if you don't want to have to use the adapter? IE, can my Sony BR Player (not 3-D capable) work with this just fine?
> 
> 2) If it works just fine, how's it work? The emitter just knows how to sort the signals out into 3-D via black magic?
> 
> 3) I can pass these signals through my 1.3 receiver it looks like. What with all the hubub about 1.4 being needed for 3-D?
> 
> 
> 4) Good 3-D content? I'd imagine when Avatar hits shelves it'll be awesome.



Link to post: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post18967084 











It is what it is, and, at least for current devices, it is not going to change.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Athlon646464* /forum/post/18980688
> 
> 
> My reply:
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> They are all afraid of too many tech support calls from folks without 3D TV's wondering why their new 3D device will not work on their TV to make it show 3D.
Click to expand...


What about all the tech support calls of "my new 3d device will not work on my new 3D TV to make it show 3d"? I think it's MUCH more clear to the reasonably intelligent customer why they can't get 3d on a non 3d tv than it is to why the DVR says "no 3d display detected" when they do in fact have a 3d display. Besides, they already have a method to deal with this situation for 24p broadcasts: you tell the DVR you want 24p, it puts up a message to press "-" if you see the message, and you're done. Why the same logic wasn't used for 3d is beyond me.



> Quote:
> It is what it is, and, at least for current devices, it is not going to change.



As a good friend of mine often says: Not with that attitude it's not!


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18980798
> 
> 
> What about all the tech support calls of "my new 3d device will not work on my new 3D TV to make it show 3d"? I think it's MUCH more clear to the reasonably intelligent customer why they can't get 3d on a non 3d tv than it is to why the DVR says "no 3d display detected" when they do in fact have a 3d display. Besides, they already have a method to deal with this situation for 24p broadcasts: you tell the DVR you want 24p, it puts up a message to press "-" if you see the message, and you're done. Why the same logic wasn't used for 3d is beyond me.
> 
> 
> 
> As a good friend of mine often says: Not with that attitude it's not!



You don't need to convince me. If you read my posts closely, you will see I don't agree with their reasoning. Please don't shoot the messenger.


----------



## Bill Broderick

A more logical approach than preventing the signal from being sent to, what the source unit perveives as a non-3D-capable device would be for them to do exactly what DirecTV is doing with their DVR's when someone tries to record something, when the receiver doesn't recognize a 3D device connected to it.


The DVR says that you need a 3D display to watch this content and that it doesn't decect one. Do you want to record the program anyway?" Why not do the same thing for viewing the program? Tell the viewer that it doesn't appear that they will be able to view the content, and then let them try to do so anyway.


This should eliminate (ok...reduce) the calls that they get from people who do actually have 3D ready display devices, while not increasing calls from people who don't have 3D ready devices.


If DirecTV already has this process in place for recording, I don't know why it would be difficult for them to implement the same process for viewing.


----------



## Scubawoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/18979923
> 
> 
> I have been searching the DirectTV Tech Forums for information on why 3D source boxes have restrictions preventing 3D from working unless they detect a 3D TV. Was also hoping to find a way to disable this feature. I did find one thread which mentioned that there were 3D Blu ray players which had a feature to disable 3D device detection but the person who made the statement has not responded back. (he was probably referring to the Panny 350s two hdmi outputs?) Anyway since I could not find what I was looking for I did send them an email requesting this information...which was escalated up a level..I am not holding my breath but maybe if enough of us inquired about this they might do something???



I have the Panasonic 350 and it will give the same message that the unit isn't connected to a 3D display just as directv dvrs do. I thought since it outputs checkerboard I could use it through my 1.3 avr but it wouldn't so went the route of using the 2 HDMI.


----------



## cesar2010

The kits is available at vanns.com http://www.vanns.com/shop/servlet/it..._c=StockNotify


----------



## Cleverland

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darin

What about all the tech support calls of "my new 3d device will not work on my new 3D TV to make it show 3d"? I think it's MUCH more clear to the reasonably intelligent customer why they can't get 3d on a non 3d tv than it is to why the DVR says "no 3d display detected" when they do in fact have a 3d display. Besides, they already have a method to deal with this situation for 24p broadcasts: you tell the DVR you want 24p, it puts up a message to press "-" if you see the message, and you're done. Why the same logic wasn't used for 3d is beyond me.



As a good friend of mine often says: Not with that attitude it's not!


You don't need to convince me. If you read my posts closely, you will see I don't agree with their reasoning. Please don't shoot the messenger.



Yes I believe we are all in agreement on these issues, maybe coming at it from different angles depending on our setups...But doesn't make it an less frustrating. I read an thread on the DTV tech forum where an owner of a mits 2010 model DLP was told that he would need to buy an adaptor even though his new tv could accept all the formats because DTV had no plans to add the new Mits TVs to their authorized list. Only the Mits adaptor will be recognized!! I bet they are adding all the new Panasonic TV models since they have a partnership going there. How crazy is that!!!!!!


----------



## tariqosuave

Just checked out some trailers and stuff from this site http://3dvision-blog.com/ ... good purchase lol.


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18980679
> 
> 
> That's what I'm say'in!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See here .



Nice thread, I just added it to my favorites list!!!


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scubawoman* /forum/post/18981652
> 
> 
> I have the Panasonic 350 and it will give the same message that the unit isn't connected to a 3D display just as directv dvrs do. I thought since it outputs checkerboard I could use it through my 1.3 avr but it wouldn't so went the route of using the 2 HDMI.



I use the checkerboard output of the Panny 300 directly to a 1.3 AVR then to the TV (c9) (HDMI 2 of Panny unused) and haven't had any issues. However, if I put the AVR between the mits adapter and the TV, I do get that message from a D* Dvr connected to the adapter.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18976623
> 
> 
> Interesting thought. I experience some of the green issues so I'll try 3D content with 3D mode off later today.



No luck. Apparently, the emitter gets power with 3D mode off in some cases which turns on the red LED, but the emitter is not being triggered to send out the IR burst.


So, apparently just a quirk, no blessing in disguise.


----------



## levi16

Just wanted everybody to know that there is a seller on Ebay selling the starter kits for $365 with free shipping. It was at $359 but then I emailed him and for some reason the price went up.


----------



## Martinefski

Anybody here have their converter just stop working? Mine went haywire saying my tv could not display 480i then it said it could not display 720p.(this was a direct tv error message) I did some resets to my d* dvr then it started flashing pink and green and a message popped up say my tv was incompatible with the converter.(this message appeared to be from the converter itself) I then powered it off and power cycled and now it won't even turn on.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Martinefski* /forum/post/18982280
> 
> 
> Mine went haywire saying my tv could not display 480i then it said it could not display 720p.(this was a direct tv error message)



I got that same message once. I was trying different connection schemes at the time. I don't recall what triggered it or what made it go away, but fortunately I haven't seen it since.


----------



## kevin6541

Any ideas?


d*tv hr/24 -> 3da-1 -> gefen (EDID programmed) -> Sammy HL61A750.


The 3d channels tell me that my tv is not compatable.


The 3d content I recorded before the channels were blocked play just fine.



After trying so many different things that I don't remember what I did, I actually had all the 3d channels working for a while, but then I tested the 3da-1 by turning it off and then back on. Channels went back to telling me that my tv is not compatable. Now I can't get it back, but the recorded content still works fine.


I know that it works, but I can't seem to figure out how.


My ps3 hasn't worked in 3d at all.


Just curious if anyone has come up with any tricks.


----------



## Scubawoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18981989
> 
> 
> I use the checkerboard output of the Panny 300 directly to a 1.3 AVR then to the TV (c9) (HDMI 2 of Panny unused) and haven't had any issues. However, if I put the AVR between the mits adapter and the TV, I do get that message from a D* Dvr connected to the adapter.



I had read others were able to do it that way so I tried that first. No luck though so had to go the other route. I don't know why it didn't work for me but it works this way so no worries just had to get out another HDMI cable.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevin6541* /forum/post/18982516
> 
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> 
> d*tv hr/24 -> 3da-1 -> gefen (EDID programmed) -> Sammy HL61A750.
> 
> 
> The 3d channels tell me that my tv is not compatable.
> 
> 
> The 3d content I recorded before the channels were blocked play just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> After trying so many different things that I don't remember what I did, I actually had all the 3d channels working for a while, but then I tested the 3da-1 by turning it off and then back on. Channels went back to telling me that my tv is not compatable. Now I can't get it back, but the recorded content still works fine.
> 
> 
> I know that it works, but I can't seem to figure out how.
> 
> 
> My ps3 hasn't worked in 3d at all.
> 
> 
> Just curious if anyone has come up with any tricks.



definitely strange. considering the 3da-1 is apparently still functioning for you on the recorded 3D content, the 3DA-1 is still recognizing the TV as a mits set. Sounds like the problem is that the D* receiver has stopped recognizing the 3da-1 as being a valid 3D device. I'd focus on the DVR to adapter connection first.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevin6541* /forum/post/18982516
> 
> 
> d*tv hr/24 -> 3da-1 -> gefen (EDID programmed) -> Sammy HL61A750.



by the way, on a somewhat different issue, can you connect the gefen output to a 1.3 AVR, and the AVR to the TV and still get 3d content to show up? if you do that, can you get 5.1 audio from the hr24 on the AVR, or just 2.0?


----------



## kevin6541




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18982856
> 
> 
> definitely strange. considering the 3da-1 is apparently still functioning for you on the recorded 3D content, the 3DA-1 is still recognizing the TV as a mits set. Sounds like the problem is that the D* receiver has stopped recognizing the 3da-1 as being a valid 3D device. I'd focus on the DVR to adapter connection first.



That's kind of what I was thinking too. I know that my cables work just fine, so I can eliminate that part (most of them are 1.3 and the other two came with the gefen and 3da-1). Not sure if D* could have blocked me due to my previous setup straight to the sammy, or if that is even something they do. It worked once, so it will work again.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18982880
> 
> 
> by the way, on a somewhat different issue, can you connect the gefen output to a 1.3 AVR, and the AVR to the TV and still get 3d content to show up? if you do that, can you get 5.1 audio from the hr24 on the AVR, or just 2.0?



unfortunately, my avr has no hdmi, the best I can do with it is optical. Although, now that i've got too many things HDMI, its probably time to think about an upgrade.


----------



## walford




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevin6541* /forum/post/18982516
> 
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> 
> d*tv hr/24 -> 3da-1 -> gefen (EDID programmed) -> Sammy HL61A750.
> 
> 
> The 3d channels tell me that my tv is not compatable.
> 
> 
> The 3d content I recorded before the channels were blocked play just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> After trying so many different things that I don't remember what I did, I actually had all the 3d channels working for a while, but then I tested the 3da-1 by turning it off and then back on. Channels went back to telling me that my tv is not compatable. Now I can't get it back, but the recorded content still works fine.
> 
> 
> I know that it works, but I can't seem to figure out how.
> 
> 
> My ps3 hasn't worked in 3d at all.
> 
> 
> Just curious if anyone has come up with any tricks.



After your turned of the adapter and turned it back on did you check the settings on the adapter to be sure they were unchanged?

Also did you turn off and unplug the DirecTV STB in order to completly reset it after you turned the adapter back on?


----------



## kevin6541




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/18983482
> 
> 
> After your turned of the adapter and turned it back on did you check the settings on the adapter to be sure they were unchanged?
> 
> Also did you turn off and unplug the DirecTV STB in order to completly reset it after you turned the adapter back on?



The 3d mode light on the adapter did not come back on when I turned it back on. I could still manually change the 3d mode, which just changes the error to a side by side or top bottom image.


(3D changes from normal to side by side and then top bottom. According to the instructions, it should usually be in normal and will automatically change depending on the 3d source, which i guess is how it detects frame sequential since that isn't one of the modes that i have seen)


Sometimes the power comes on automatically, and then when it detects the 3d source, it automatically changes. Other times, the power doesn't come on automatically.


I have reset and unplugged the hr24 multiple times, but i suspect its all about doing things in a very particular order. Many variables.


----------



## audiopho




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcterp* /forum/post/18978743
> 
> 
> Are the blacks noticeably lighter in 3d?



It looks fairly decent black to me in 3d mode both in PC games and D*TV contents.


----------



## jjknatl

OK, now I'm thoroughly ticked off. I rushed to get the kit so that everything would be good by the time Xgames started. Set the DVR for last night's Xgames 3D on 106. Checked today and no recording. Looked at the history and it says cancelled because channel was no longer available. Yet 106 was in the guide and not grayed out and continues to be.


Needless to day, I have set the DVR to record Xgames tomorrow night on 103 and on 106 and hopefully one or the other will actually record.


I will be speaking to D* about this tomorrow. I believe I am due some compensation.


Did anybody else experience this?


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrmits* /forum/post/18979747
> 
> 
> ok...took it off native, 2d to 2d works. 2d to 3d works. 3d to 2d- still have to power off the adapter.
> 
> 
> need to call mitsu back with serial number, etc. hopefully they are working on a fix like others have said



How long do you wait on the 3d to 2d blue screen to go away? I get the blue screen in this case too, but in about 10 seconds it goes away and the 2D content shows up normally. I'm not happy about the 10 second wait, but at least I don't have to power cycle anything.


----------



## Quatre

i know everyone here has mitsu's and a few got defensive when i said i didnt want another lamp based bulky dlp tv which will be worth next to nothing in resale value inside of a year and very hard to sell.


I love my samsung 3d ready led dlp mainly cus its led amd doent need replacement bulb amd comes on instant etc. (basically all the benedits lf mitsu laservue dlp bit for way less)


To get to my point though, i saw the 82837 in a store open box item for $1999 which seems like a pretty good deal considering even online about the lowest prices are still close to 3k.


I was thinking of getting the 82 anyway eventually for my smallish media/theatre room in basement (currently just used to store baby toys) instead of a projector. Started thinking i mine as well get it now so i have it and can get some use out of it in fam room till i get a new tv for there and move the 82 to the theatre room.


Considering that and the fact that when I watch 3d (especially grand caonyon or any under water clips) even from fairly close to the 67", I find myself wishing the screen was bigger and therefore more immersive, so i figured i should get the 82837.


The thing im worried sbout is getting desensitized to screen size and getting used to it which will make it harder later to go down in size to a flat lcd or plasma.


I have the 67" samsung '3d ready' led dlp and was waiting for the samsung 65" 3d led lcd, But being It is taking so long to release and will be overpriced I am starting to think its not worth waiting for just for 2" smaller. Though it has other benefits like not needing a converter and can do all 3d modes, internal media player to play 3d content (and other stuff) off usb hdd via tv's usb port, and the 2d to 3d comverter to view any 2d content in "pseudo" 3d which ive seen the 2d avatar bluray played in this mode and it looks great plus not blurry so other ppl in the room without 3d glasses can view it also.


How can you giys convincd me thst the 73" or 82" 837? series is worth it. Any other concerns besides bulb


Is $1999 good price for an open box of the wd- 82837? Any other concerns besides the lamp having some hours on

It, being a display model.


----------



## bdaley6509

Hi Guys...I called Best Buy in Columbus, OH and they had about 58 kits in their warehouse, with 1-3 day shipping to any store when ordered online.


----------



## Darin

Personally I think you need to stop worrying about bulb vs. LED. Yes, the bulbs do take about 30 secs to reach full brightness. And yes, they do burn out. But their rated life is about 6000 hrs. I've had my set for almost exactly 2 years, and I only have 2400 hrs on it. They are known to dim before they die, but even if you change it out at 3 yrs, that's still a good amount of time, and they are only $100. I bought a spare not long after I got my set, and I'll probably swap them out soon and have the one with hours on it as the spare. Just add $100 to the cost of the set before you do any price comparison (or if the demo one has a ton of hours, add $200). Check the repair prices in the rear projection forum for those users that have had LEDs die, and that $100 doesn't seem too bad.










What you REALLY need to be asking yourself is what is the proper size display. Look here . That to me is MUCH more important than the technology used to light up the picture.


----------



## shark2br




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevin6541* /forum/post/18983588
> 
> 
> The 3d mode light on the adapter did not come back on when I turned it back on. I could still manually change the 3d mode, which just changes the error to a side by side or top bottom image.
> 
> 
> (3D changes from normal to side by side and then top bottom. According to the instructions, it should usually be in normal and will automatically change depending on the 3d source, which i guess is how it detects frame sequential since that isn't one of the modes that i have seen)
> 
> 
> Sometimes the power comes on automatically, and then when it detects the 3d source, it automatically changes. Other times, the power doesn't come on automatically.
> 
> 
> I have reset and unplugged the hr24 multiple times, but i suspect its all about doing things in a very particular order. Many variables.



It happened to me when i changed cables.....what you do is open the blu ray player and close again....it will detects the 3D signal automatically on normal.


----------



## Cleverland




Darin said:


> But their rated life is about 6000 hrs. I've had my set for almost exactly 2 years, and I only have 2400 hrs on it. They are known to dim before they die, but even if you change it out at 3 yrs, that's still a good amount of time, and they are only $100.
> 
> 
> 
> How does one check the lamp hours? I have had my set since 2007 and it is on since I use it as a computer monitor as well. Since I have been retired 1 1/2 years it is often on many hours per day...Doesn't seem to be dimming at all yet.....


----------



## Impala1ss




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Quatre* /forum/post/18984937
> 
> 
> i know everyone here has mitsu's and a few got defensive when i said i didnt want another lamp based bulky dlp tv which will be worth next to nothing in resale value inside of a year and very hard to sell.
> 
> 
> I love my samsung 3d ready led dlp mainly cus its led amd doent need replacement bulb amd comes on instant etc. (basically all the benedits lf mitsu laservue dlp bit for way less)
> 
> 
> To get to my point though, i saw the 82837 in a store open box item for $1999 which seems like a pretty good deal considering even online about the lowest prices are still close to 3k.
> 
> 
> I was thinking of getting the 82 anyway eventually for my smallish media/theatre room in basement (currently just used to store baby toys) instead of a projector. Started thinking i mine as well get it now so i have it and can get some use out of it in fam room till i get a new tv for there and move the 82 to the theatre room.
> 
> 
> Considering that and the fact that when I watch 3d (especially grand caonyon or any under water clips) even from fairly close to the 67", I find myself wishing the screen was bigger and therefore more immersive, so i figured i should get the 82837.
> 
> 
> The thing im worried sbout is getting desensitized to screen size and getting used to it which will make it harder later to go down in size to a flat lcd or plasma.
> 
> 
> I have the 67" samsung 65" led dlp and was waiting for the samsung 65 3d led dlp. But being It is taking so long to release and will be way too much.
> 
> 
> How can you giys convincd me thst the 73" or 82" 837? series is worth it. Any other concerns besides buob
> 
> 
> Is $1999 good price for an open box of the wd- 82837? Any other concerns besides the lamp having some hours on
> 
> It, being a display model.



That is a good price for an 82837. I paid the same for my (new) 73837 and love it. The larger size will make for a better 3-D experience, IMO. I'd be careful as to why the set is an "open box" special. If you can resolve why it was returned/opened sounds like a good deal to me.


----------



## Darin

One thing I forgot to mention about the 82" set: it has the same bulb as the smaller ones, so it's going to be less suitable for a bright room. Good for a basement though.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/18985549
> 
> 
> How does one check the lamp hours?



One the remote press menu, then 2 4 7 0.


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18985817
> 
> 
> One thing I forgot to mention about the 82" set: it has the same bulb as the smaller ones, so it's going to be less suitable for a bright room. Good for a basement though.
> 
> 
> One the remote press menu, then 2 4 7 0.




Were did you find this information? I didn't see this in the manual anywhere..I assume the hours are the lower left side number? It says 07500..


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/18985854
> 
> 
> Were did you find this information?



Here in the forums. That's at least the correct code for mine, which is a 2008 model (73736). You might want to check the rear projection forum for a thread specific to your model. Those threads get quite large, so it takes a bit of searching to find.


> Quote:
> I assume the hours are the lower left side number? It says 07500..



I'll have to check how/where mine shows up later. But if that's right, that's a lot of hours. You might want to go ahead and change it out, and keep that as an emergency spare. I can't speak from experience, but from what I understand they do dim as you get up there in hours, and it's not necessarily noticeable until you change it out (and suddenly have a brighter picture). The extra brightness might be helpful in 3d mode, considering the darkening effect of the glasses.


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Impala1ss* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> That is a good price for an 82837. I paid the same for my (new) 73837 and love it. The larger size will make for a better 3-D experience, IMO. I'd be careful as to why the set is an "open box" special. If you can resolve why it was returned/opened sounds like a good deal to me.



I have the 67" samsung '3d ready' led dlp and was waiting for the samsung 65" 3d led lcd, But being It is taking so long to release and will be overpriced I am starting to think its not worth waiting for just for 2" smaller. Though it has other benefits like not needing a converter and can do all 3d modes, internal media player to play 3d content (and other stuff) off usb hdd via tv's usb port, and the 2d to 3d comverter to view any 2d content in "pseudo" 3d which ive seen the 2d avatar bluray played in this mode and it looks great plus not blurry so other ppl in the room without 3d glasses can view it also.


And as darin mentioned the 82" using same bulb as thr 73" so not ideal for brighter fam room.


I do still kind of want it for theargwrlicture and figire go all the wayfor the 82" instead of jist 6" bigger then my 67" with thr 73 but ultimately doesnt seem worth it just tobuse in my fam room for a month until the 65" samsung credit card thin 3d led lcd comes out. All the 82" will do is desensitize me to the size and make the 65" seem small. As it is thr main seating positions in my fam room are closer then previous hiuse where i also used the 67" so i probably shouldnt go much bigger and hopefully wont miss the 2" but will love the aesthetics and features of the sam 3d led lcd especially nt needing the converter.


Stil im thinking of the 82" mitsu dlp where at least i wont need the geffen hdmi detective with the 3da-1 converter a i do with the sam dlp.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18984374
> 
> 
> OK, now I'm thoroughly ticked off. I rushed to get the kit so that everything would be good by the time Xgames started. Set the DVR for last night's Xgames 3D on 106. Checked today and no recording. Looked at the history and it says cancelled because channel was no longer available. Yet 106 was in the guide and not grayed out and continues to be.
> 
> 
> Needless to day, I have set the DVR to record Xgames tomorrow night on 103 and on 106 and hopefully one or the other will actually record.




Same thing happened again last night. D* had no clue when I called tech support yesterday. Only suggestion was to reset the dvr and hope for the best.


----------



## bcterp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/18988612
> 
> 
> Same thing happened again last night. D* had no clue when I called tech support yesterday. Only suggestion was to reset the dvr and hope for the best.



Same problem here, Xgames did not record. My 3d channels stay grayed out as I am watching them in 3D! I assume this is due to having a receiver between my cable box and 3D adapter. I have a 2010 Pioneer HDMI 1.4 receiver so Directv needs to get it together, this shouldn't be an issue. All of their EDID checks or whatever they are doing are useless.


----------



## Darin

Like I keep saying, everyone needs to email DirecTV about the issues their implementation of 3d are causing.


----------



## Hyabusha

I wish Dish Network offered 3D channels....


----------



## Lumpy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bdaley6509* /forum/post/18985112
> 
> 
> Hi Guys...I called Best Buy in Columbus, OH and they had about 58 kits in their warehouse, with 1-3 day shipping to any store when ordered online.



I placed my order with 4electronicwarehouse.com nearly 2 months ago. Finally had to give up on them. Getting jealous, reading post from all the people (even the ones having problems) who've already gotten theirs.


Ordered one from Compusa instead and it should be here tomorrow with expedited shipping. They and TD just got a bunch in, I'd heard.


Update: On Backorder.







Neither TD or CompUSA show as OOS.


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcterp* /forum/post/18988771
> 
> 
> Same problem here, Xgames did not record. My 3d channels stay grayed out as I am watching them in 3D! I assume this is due to having a receiver between my cable box and 3D adapter.



Sorry to say that this must be a D* issue only.

All the 3D Xgames recorded perfectly with Comcast (DCX DVR), and they look terrific!

Good luck!


----------



## walford

Yes the EDID data being receivd from the receivr by D* is not on it's list of qualified 3DTVs.

You would have to go from D* receiver to the adapter and then to the the rceiver and then the reciver would hopefully pass through the checkrboard 3D content. If you have a Samsung 3D DLP then you would also need a Gefen box between the adapter and the receiver.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcterp* /forum/post/18988771
> 
> 
> Same problem here, Xgames did not record. My 3d channels stay grayed out as I am watching them in 3D! I assume this is due to having a receiver between my cable box and 3D adapter. I have a 2010 Pioneer HDMI 1.4 receiver so Directv needs to get it together, this shouldn't be an issue. All of their EDID checks or whatever they are doing are useless.



My setup is strictly by the book, D* to adapter to TV, so D* has no excuse for this.


----------



## walford

jjknatl.

Is your TV on the following list of 3DTV's that D* supports?

http://support.directv.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/2754


----------



## Av8tr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/18989704
> 
> 
> Yes the EDID data being receivd from the receivr by D* is not on it's list of qualified 3DTVs.
> 
> You would have to go from D* receiver to the adapter and then to the the rceiver and then the reciver would hopefully pass through the checkrboard 3D content. If you have a Samsung 3D DLP then you would also need a Gefen box between the adapter and the receiver.



I never thought of going from the adapter back to the receiver. i just assumed I had to leave the receiver out of the equation, and go directly to the TV from the adapter. I'll try that tonight.


----------



## walford

If you can't get it to work without the A/V receiver involved in any way then you certently won't get it to work with the A/V receiver involved.


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcterp* /forum/post/18988771
> 
> 
> Same problem here, Xgames did not record. My 3d channels stay grayed out as I am watching them in 3D!



This is a problem where, for some reason, the receiver loses the channel in the guide, so the receiver deletes all schedule recording for that channel. I also had it happen and noticed that 106 didn't appear in my guide, grayed out or otherwise. Just another mess up by DirecTV.


----------



## Av8tr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/18989831
> 
> 
> If you can't get it to work without the A/V receiver involved in any way then you certently won't get it to work with the A/V receiver involved.



I _can_ get it to work without the receiver although I don't use it very often because it's a pita changing cables. I played n3d last nite, but for some reason didn't get any sound. I was too sleepy to deal with it, but at least I know it works. I should get the splitter tomorrow, so I'll have more things to try.


----------



## Daniel Murray

I just got Directv and would to know is this be my best way to hookup? HRR 24 box to the adapter and then to WD-65835. I only use my AVR for sound and not video.

Thank for your help.

Buy the way My Bestbuy says the have them in stocked from there web site. But when I went there to buy one they had no idea on what I was talking about. So I am going to order off the Internet and do store pickup this week.

Daniel


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Daniel Murray* /forum/post/18990642
> 
> 
> I just got Directv and would to know is this be my best way to hookup? HRR 24 box to the adapter and then to WD-65835. I only use my AVR for sound and not video.
> 
> Thank for your help.
> 
> Buy the way My Bestbuy says the have them in stocked from there web site. But when I went there to buy one they had no idea on what I was talking about. So I am going to order off the Internet and do store pickup this week.
> 
> Daniel



DirecTV has said the only supported method is a direct connection from their receiver to the 3DC-1000 (where needed) and then the TV. That said you can try passing it through your AVR and see if it works, if it does then leave it there, but if you run into a problem in the future best bet is to remove the AVR and see if it still happens.


Another place you can get them is www.vanns.com .


----------



## Daniel Murray

Thanks rad.

You have help me a lot tonight.

Daniel


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rad* /forum/post/18989917
> 
> 
> This is a problem where, for some reason, the receiver loses the channel in the guide, so the receiver deletes all schedule recording for that channel. I also had it happen and noticed that 106 didn't appear in my guide, grayed out or otherwise. Just another mess up by DirecTV.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcterp* /forum/post/18988771
> 
> 
> Same problem here, Xgames did not record. My 3d channels stay grayed out as I am watching them in 3D! I assume this is due to having a receiver between my cable box and 3D adapter. I have a 2010 Pioneer HDMI 1.4 receiver so Directv needs to get it together, this shouldn't be an issue. All of their EDID checks or whatever they are doing are useless.



Trying to record X Games was the second time ESPN3D failed to record with a message in History that it was cancelled because channel was not available. luckily this last time I also recorded it from n3D and that channel worked so I was able to view it... I guess we could chauk this up to DTV 3D growing pains......only time will tell...


----------



## dreaux




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rad* /forum/post/18990659
> 
> 
> DirecTV has said the only supported method is a direct connection from their receiver to the 3DC-1000 (where needed) and then the TV. That said you can try passing it through your AVR and see if it works, if it does then leave it there, but if you run into a problem in the future best bet is to remove the AVR and see if it still happens.
> 
> 
> Another place you can get them is www.vanns.com .



I had to replace my AV receiver to a 3D ready HDMI 1.4 and now everything works fine with D*. I go from D* to the AV receiver and then through the 3DC-1000 to the TV and everything works. I leave the power on the 1000 and when I switch to 3D content the 1000 3D comes on and asked for me to switch my TV to 3D mode which I do and I am viewing 3D. My old receiver was a HDMI 1.3 (non pass through) and it was hit or miss getting the 3D channels to work. They would be grayed out if D* thought the TV was not 3D ready....which was really the old receivers fault.

If i get a grayed out channel now I just turn off and on the receiver and they reappear....I think D* is still working its bugs out as well.


According to umr who is a well know calibrator on AVS forums---
_3D with HDMI 1.3 will be half the resolution of that possible with 1.4. For example 1080p/60Hz falls to 1080i/60Hz._
_This assumes it works at all with the gear you have._
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ervue&page=250


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to say that this must be a D* issue only.
> 
> All the 3D Xgames recorded perfectly with Comcast (DCX DVR), and they look terrific!
> 
> Good luck!



Damn i was thinking that directv was better and had more 3d then comcast but maybe comcast is better for 3d?


I think comcast doesnt have as many 3d channels or in demand 3d content? But sounds like what they do have at least works even with the adapter. And comcast doesnt make you sign a contract like D* does.


And though i think im in one with fios i csn probably droo 1 or 2 boxes and replace them with comcast box or 2. And then drip comcast and put fios boxes back at the 2 tvs id do 3d at once fios gets 3d in the fall or end of year.


----------



## Quatre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dreaux* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I had to replace my AV receiver to a 3D ready HDMI 1.4 and now everything works fine with D*. I go from D* to the AV receiver and then through the 3DC-1000 to the TV and everything works. I leave the power on the 1000 and when I switch to 3D content the 1000 3D comes on and asked for me to switch my TV to 3D mode which I do and I am viewing 3D. My old receiver was a HDMI 1.3 (non pass through) and it was hit or miss getting the 3D channels to work. They would be grayed out if D* thought the TV was not 3D ready....which was really the old receivers fault.
> 
> If i get a grayed out channel now I just turn off and on the receiver and they reappear....I think D* is still working its bugs out as well.
> 
> 
> According to umr who is a well know calibrator on AVS forums---
> 
> 3D with HDMI 1.3 will be half the resolution of that possible with 1.4. For example 1080p/60Hz falls to 1080i/60Hz.
> 
> This assumes it works at all with the gear you have.
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ervue&page=250



So receiver has to be 1.4 to get full res 3d even if your using a newer 3d tv?


I hope my Integra receiver is 1.4 but it should be cus i just got it and its new model and has 5-6 hdmi inputs so id think it would have to be 1.4.


Still waiting on seeing how ppl get the 3da-1 adapter working with samsung dlp using geffen hdmi detective but kind of funny how even mitsu dlp owners need the geffen to have D* 3d chans work with the adapter for them too.


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Quatre* /forum/post/18992323
> 
> 
> Still waiting on seeing how ppl get the 3da-1 adapter working with samsung dlp using geffen hdmi detective but kind of funny how even mitsu dlp owners need the geffen to have D* 3d chans work with the adapter for them too.



I have a 2008 model Mits (WD73735) and no need for the Geffen to make it work.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dreaux* /forum/post/18992120
> 
> 
> According to umr who is a well know calibrator on AVS forums---
> _3D with HDMI 1.3 will be half the resolution of that possible with 1.4. For example 1080p/60Hz falls to 1080i/60Hz._
> _This assumes it works at all with the gear you have._
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ervue&page=250



That doesn't sound right. Can you post a link to the actual post? That link goes to "page 250", but page 250 is relative depending on how many posts per page you have your profile set up to view. When I look at that thread, there are only 179 pages.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rad* /forum/post/18992330
> 
> 
> I have a 2008 model Mits (WD73735) and no need for the Geffen to make it work.



Just to be clear, generally, people only need the Geffen if in cases where they want to route the signal through an AVR (but not in all cases). Though there was a post of someone having a 2010 model that accepts a SbS or T/B signal, but DirecTV said they would have to have the adapter anyway, as they don't have that TV on their "list". IF that is true, then the Geffen would be helpful in that case as well (though it's just as expensive as an adapter).


----------



## dreaux




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18992520
> 
> 
> That doesn't sound right. Can you post a link to the actual post? That link goes to "page 250", but page 250 is relative depending on how many posts per page you have your profile set up to view. When I look at that thread, there are only 179 pages.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just to be clear, generally, people only need the Geffen if in cases where they want to route the signal through an AVR (but not in all cases). Though there was a post of someone having a 2010 model that accepts a SbS or T/B signal, but DirecTV said they would have to have the adapter anyway, as they don't have that TV on their "list". IF that is true, then the Geffen would be helpful in that case as well (though it's just as expensive as an adapter).



It is post 7471. Also post 7470 mentions it.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=7471 
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=7470


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/18989759
> 
> 
> jjknatl.
> 
> Is your TV on the following list of 3DTV's that D* supports?
> 
> http://support.directv.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/2754



Yep. Wd65c9 connected directly to 3DA-1, with 3dA-1 connected directly to HR21-700. No excuses.


----------



## Zapix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Quatre* /forum/post/18992293
> 
> 
> Damn i was thinking that directv was better and had more 3d then comcast but maybe comcast is better for 3d?
> 
> 
> I think comcast doesnt have as many 3d channels or in demand 3d content? But sounds like what they do have at least works even with the adapter. And comcast doesnt make you sign a contract like D* does.



I'm getting ready to drop comcast for direct tv, as comcast only offers ESPN3D as far as I know, and we don't get it here, muchless many HD channels that have been available for a long time that they simply refuse to bring to this area (nat geo, sci, syfy, and many more). I think Direct TV has just the two for now, ESPN3D and n3D. Best chance to get the Discovery3D channel imo is to change over to DTV. Only content Comcast offers me right now are 4 replays of the world cup. That's it. Only thing that worries me at this point are the problems others seem to be having with DTV and the mits adapter.


On topic of the adapter though, anyone find any solutions with the 833s yet, and perhaps a solution of sorts that doesn't involve changing inputs to get the video to display?


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zapix* /forum/post/18993214
> 
> 
> I'm getting ready to drop comcast for direct tv, as comcast only offers ESPN3D as far as I know, and we don't get it here, muchless many HD channels that have been available for a long time that they simply refuse to bring to this area (nat geo, sci, syfy, and many more). I think Direct TV has just the two for now, ESPN3D and n3D. Best chance to get the Discovery3D channel imo is to change over to DTV. Only content Comcast offers me right now are 4 replays of the world cup. That's it. Only thing that worries me at this point are the problems others seem to be having with DTV and the mits adapter.
> 
> 
> On topic of the adapter though, anyone find any solutions with the 833s yet, and perhaps a solution of sorts that doesn't involve changing inputs to get the video to display?



So far I haven't see Discovery 3D having an announced available on DirecTV date yet, and because channels that have been announced before as coming to DirecTV haven't if you really want that channel I'd wait.


As for other content, the n3D channel for the past two weeks I've had a 3D adapter is a loop of some previews and the same 5 or 6 programs that repeat. If the guide is accurate there will be 3D coverage of a golf tournament starting on 8/12.


The PPV channel has two IMAX films about the sea, one IMAX about NASCAR and the latest remake of Journey to the Center of the Earth.


The ESPN 3D channel shows nothing in the guide for the next 10 days.


For me the Mits 3DC-1000 is working fine, I have it connected through a Denon AVR-891 which is HDMI 1.4. An issue I do have is with my HR24 HD DVR, exiting a DVR function causes the video signal to resync causing a 5 to 10 second blanking on the TV, a HR23 replacing the HR24 in the same cabling does not have that issue.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dreaux* /forum/post/18992642
> 
> 
> It is post 7471. Also post 7470 mentions it.
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=7471



Hmmm, ok. I'm not sure _exactly_ what he's trying to say. On one hand it's true, but on another it's not. 1.3 can handle the bandwidth of full 1920x1080 1080p @ 24fps. As an example, the PS3 is a 1.3 device, but will be able to provide full 3DHD with the firmware update. BUT, all the components that can do full 3DHD will require a handshake that is specific to HDMI 1.4. The PS3 firmware update essentially just adds some 1.4 communication protocol to the 1.3 functionality. It still can't do some of the other stuff included in 1.4, but it's able to talk to 1.4 devices. Full 1080p can travel over 1.3 cables, and through 1.3 switches, provided they are "high speed" (category 2) rated. But anything that intercepts the actual communication (like a 1.3 receiver with video processing) stands the chance of preventing 3d mode because the "3d handshake" can't happen. I don't follow the "falls to 1080i" on 1.3 part. That makes it _sound_ like it's a bandwidth issue, and not a handshake issue. If the handshake can't happen, I would expect there to be NO 3d, not 1080i 3d.


As far as it's relevance to the Mits adapter... the mits adapter has a 1.4 input. It can do the handshake with a 1.4 source. It just so happens that on the output side, you are essentially getting half the resolution per eye of full 1080p 3d, but that's a trait of the checkerboard format, not anything directly related to 1.3. whether or not a full 1080p signal can make it to the adapter through 1.3 devices just depends on whether or not those devices do anything to interrupt the 3d handshake. It's probably going to take a while before there's enough user reports to confirm which devices do and don't cause problems.


----------



## Jesse E




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dreaux* /forum/post/18992120
> 
> 
> I had to replace my AV receiver to a 3D ready HDMI 1.4 and now everything works fine with D*. I go from D* to the AV receiver and then through the 3DC-1000 to the TV and everything works. I leave the power on the 1000 and when I switch to 3D content the 1000 3D comes on and asked for me to switch my TV to 3D mode which I do and I am viewing 3D. My old receiver was a HDMI 1.3 (non pass through) and it was hit or miss getting the 3D channels to work. They would be grayed out if D* thought the TV was not 3D ready....which was really the old receivers fault.
> 
> If i get a grayed out channel now I just turn off and on the receiver and they reappear....I think D* is still working its bugs out as well.
> 
> 
> According to umr who is a well know calibrator on AVS forums---
> _3D with HDMI 1.3 will be half the resolution of that possible with 1.4. For example 1080p/60Hz falls to 1080i/60Hz._
> _This assumes it works at all with the gear you have._
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ervue&page=250



Which receiver did you purchase? I'm looking to upgrade to 1.4 receiver soon... And prefer one that is working correctly with 3D. Thanks!


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rad* /forum/post/18993256
> 
> 
> The ESPN 3D channel shows nothing in the guide for the next 10 days.



College football starts Sept 6th!


----------



## dreaux




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jesse E* /forum/post/18993344
> 
> 
> Which receiver did you purchase? I'm looking to upgrade to 1.4 receiver soon... And prefer one that is working correctly with 3D. Thanks!



I bought the Pioneer Elite VSX-31 which if you look around you can find better prices. It is called a '3D ready 1.4' receiver.

But I would imagine any new receiver labeled 3D ready 1.4 HDMI will work just fine.

However this one does work well with my D* and 3D blu-ray. I tested them out the first day I got the receiver and both worked great.

I will add on thing, and now maybe this is unrelated but I noticed my PQ improved going from the 1.3 AV receiver to the 1.4 AV receiver. Nothing else was changed. Perhaps the video processor is better in the new receiver thought I doubt it, my last one was very good, or going to a 1.4 HDMI makes a difference, I don't know,


----------



## dreaux




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18993286
> 
> 
> Hmmm, ok. I'm not sure _exactly_ what he's trying to say. On one hand it's true, but on another it's not. 1.3 can handle the bandwidth of full 1920x1080 1080p @ 24fps. As an example, the PS3 is a 1.3 device, but will be able to provide full 3DHD with the firmware update. BUT, all the components that can do full 3DHD will require a handshake that is specific to HDMI 1.4. The PS3 firmware update essentially just adds some 1.4 communication protocol to the 1.3 functionality. It still can't do some of the other stuff included in 1.4, but it's able to talk to 1.4 devices. Full 1080p can travel over 1.3 cables, and through 1.3 switches, provided they are "high speed" (category 2) rated. But anything that intercepts the actual communication (like a 1.3 receiver with video processing) stands the chance of preventing 3d mode because the "3d handshake" can't happen. I don't follow the "falls to 1080i" on 1.3 part. That makes it _sound_ like it's a bandwidth issue, and not a handshake issue. If the handshake can't happen, I would expect there to be NO 3d, not 1080i 3d.
> 
> 
> As far as it's relevance to the Mits adapter... the mits adapter has a 1.4 input. It can do the handshake with a 1.4 source. It just so happens that on the output side, you are essentially getting half the resolution per eye of full 1080p 3d, but that's a trait of the checkerboard format, not anything directly related to 1.3. whether or not a full 1080p signal can make it to the adapter through 1.3 devices just depends on whether or not those devices do anything to interrupt the 3d handshake. It's probably going to take a while before there's enough user reports to confirm which devices do and don't cause problems.



Does the 1.4 offer more bandwidth? Or does a 1.3 high speed, category 2 offer the same?


----------



## walford

The HDMI 1.4a 3D formats and the HDMI 1.3 HD formats use exactly the same bandwith, And as of the end of October no vendor will be able to ship and sell "Hdmi 1.4"

labled cables they will only be able to ship and sell High Speed HDMI cabls(which is what is requried for the HDMI 1.4a 3D formats) or High Speed HDMI+ Ethernet" labeled cables. see:

http://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/tra..._logo_pub.aspx


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18993286
> 
> 
> I don't follow the "falls to 1080i" on 1.3 part. That makes it _sound_ like it's a bandwidth issue, and not a handshake issue. If the handshake can't happen, I would expect there to be NO 3d, not 1080i 3d.



I think he is using 1080i loosely, to encompass all half resolution 3D techniques (he is probably considering frame packed to be 1.4, all others as 3D over HDMI 1.3). So, while not technically interlaced, still half resolution like an interlaced display would be in terms of total number of real pixels per eye.


----------



## GreggyJ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/18993346
> 
> 
> College football starts Sept 6th!



Do they have any games scheduled in 3D?


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GreggyJ* /forum/post/18994610
> 
> 
> Do they have any games scheduled in 3D?



This is a 3D forum. I wouldn't have mentioned it if the games were not in 3D:
http://espn.go.com/3d/schedule.html


----------



## Av8tr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dreaux* /forum/post/18993697
> 
> 
> I bought the Pioneer Elite VSX-31 which if you look around you can find better prices. It is called a '3D ready 1.4' receiver.
> 
> But I would imagine any new receiver labeled 3D ready 1.4 HDMI will work just fine.
> 
> However this one does work well with my D* and 3D blu-ray. I tested them out the first day I got the receiver and both worked great.
> 
> I will add on thing, and now maybe this is unrelated but I noticed my PQ improved going from the 1.3 AV receiver to the 1.4 AV receiver. Nothing else was changed. Perhaps the video processor is better in the new receiver thought I doubt it, my last one was very good, or going to a 1.4 HDMI makes a difference, I don't know,



I have the Pioneer 1020 and do have problems with Directv and the Mits 3d adapter. I'm beginning to think it's something other than the receiver, especially if your VSX-31 is working OK. I assume it works well with Directv? I can't imagine it would work any differently than my 1020 when it comes to 3D. I just got an HDMI splitter in the mail today, so as soon as my Daughter gets off the TV, I'll install it and see what happens


----------



## GreggyJ




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/18994787
> 
> 
> This is a 3D forum. I wouldn't have mentioned it if the games were not in 3D:
> http://espn.go.com/3d/schedule.html



I know, I just checked the schedule two days ago and they hadn't had anything scheduled yet.


----------



## ffactoryxx

I bought the 65" C9.


Will these Mitsubishi's that are not HDMI 1.4 ever be able to do FULL 3d at 1080 rather than half the resolution?


Is there any work around to get full resolution?


How does the 3d on Avatar look at half?


----------



## Av8tr

I have the Mits 65737 which is the same TV as the C9 and the 3D looks sharp as a tack. I think you'll be perfectly happy with it, although I think it's true that it only displays half resolution.


----------



## Av8tr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Av8tr* /forum/post/18994927
> 
> 
> I have the Pioneer 1020 and do have problems with Directv and the Mits 3d adapter. I'm beginning to think it's something other than the receiver, especially if your VSX-31 is working OK. I assume it works well with Directv? I can't imagine it would work any differently than my 1020 when it comes to 3D. I just got an HDMI splitter in the mail today, so as soon as my Daughter gets off the TV, I'll install it and see what happens



OK everything if working great now. I just turned off the CEC on the TV and other components. It was creating a conflict somewhere. I wish I knew more about how components work together with this HDMI control stuff. I have the Harmony remote, and I think the CEC is not much use with it.


----------



## bornagain1

I have had my Mits 65c9 for a month now and am very happy with it. I decided to upgrade most of my other equipment also and have been slowly trying to read and learn from others on this forum. I had my 3D-1000 starter kit delivered several weeks ago and have not taken it out of the box. I bought a Sony BD S570 3D blu ray player and have hooked it up. I purchased a Samsung 3D starter kit for the extra pair od glasses and the Monsters vs Aliens disc. I am now ready to upgrade my receiver to a 3D ready 1.4 HDMI and am looking at the Onkyo HT-S5300 7.1-Channel Home Theater Receiver/Speaker Package with Dock for iPhone/iPod with four 1.4 HDMI inputs and one output for under $400. My current receiver is an older Yamaha 5.1 with no HDMI inputs or outputs and an older set of RCA speakers with a powered sub (I'll scrap these). My 3D sources will be the Sony blu ray player and whatever 3D content that will be coming from my two Comcast 3D programming channels. Does the Onkyo receiver/speaker package seem like a good choice with my set-up? I don't want to unpack and hook up anything related to my 3D setup until I have everything in place. I have followed most of the dialog about problems with receiver pass through etc., and I am looking to save myself some aggravation by doing things right the first time. Any advice from the forum members would be appreciated.


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Av8tr* /forum/post/18996018
> 
> 
> I have the Mits 65737 which is the same TV as the C9 and the 3D looks sharp as a tack. I think you'll be perfectly happy with it, although I think it's true that it only displays half resolution.



My understanding is that it interpolates up to full 1080p 3D. I watch 3D on my 65737 from 6 1/2' with perfect detail and no graininess--you can't do that at less than 1080p. Try it yourself.


----------



## jjhuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Av8tr* /forum/post/18996023
> 
> 
> OK everything if working great now. I just turned off the CEC on the TV and other components. It was creating a conflict somewhere. I wish I knew more about how components work together with this HDMI control stuff. I have the Harmony remote, and I think the CEC is not much use with it.



Did you have to use the switch? I am considering buying the Pioneer 1020 and haven't been convinced that it will allow the pass through for D*. I have to have D* through my receiver as I have both D* and the PS3. Don't want to use a switch or have to manually plug and unplug them.


----------



## dreaux




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Av8tr* /forum/post/18996023
> 
> 
> OK everything if working great now. I just turned off the CEC on the TV and other components. It was creating a conflict somewhere. I wish I knew more about how components work together with this HDMI control stuff. I have the Harmony remote, and I think the CEC is not much use with it.



Just curious...why did you need a spliter? Yeah I had to turn the CEC off as well, only because I am only using 1 HDMI into the set and don't want to set to auto detect since it had a habit of going to an unused HDMI input.


----------



## dreaux




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjhuiz* /forum/post/18996600
> 
> 
> Did you have to use the switch? I am considering buying the Pioneer 1020 and haven't been convinced that it will allow the pass through for D*. I have to have D* through my receiver as I have both D* and the PS3. Don't want to use a switch or have to manually plug and unplug them.



I just went D*, 3D blu-ray to open HDMI inputs on the 3D AV receiver then the receiver out to the 1000 starter kit in, and the out to the TV. The 3D receiver serves as a switcher.


----------



## walford




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ffactoryxx* /forum/post/18995883
> 
> 
> I bought the 65" C9.
> 
> Will these Mitsubishi's that are not HDMI 1.4 ever be able to do FULL 3d at 1080 rather than half the resolution?
> 
> Is there any work around to get full resolution?



No, they will never be able to accept any 1080p per eye 3D resolution.

Only 1/2 R Checkerboard resolution which they they can then internally upscale to their 1080p display by inventing the content of the additional pixels required.


----------



## ffactoryxx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/18996754
> 
> 
> No, they will never be able to accept any 1080p per eye 3D resolution.
> 
> Only 1/2 R Checkerboard resolution which they they can then internally upscale to their 1080p display by inventing the content of the additional pixels required.



Great thanks.


How does it look?


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmalter0* /forum/post/18996500
> 
> 
> My understanding is that it interpolates up to full 1080p 3D. I watch 3D on my 65737 from 6 1/2' with perfect detail and no graininess--you can't do that at less than 1080p. Try it yourself.



Now move up to two feet and compare 2d to 3d. In many on-screen objects you can VERY easily see the pixels on certain objects in 3d that you can't in 2d.


That's not to suggest that at normal viewing distances it doesn't look good. it does. But it is most definitely half the pixels per eye compared to full 1080p. And it can't be "interpolated up", because the checkerboard format (that only has ROOM for 1/2 the pixels per eye) is the native display format for rear projection 1080p.


----------



## khee mao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18996966
> 
> 
> Now move up to two feet and compare 2d to 3d. In many on-screen objects you can VERY easily see the pixels on certain objects in 3d that you can't in 2d.
> 
> 
> That's not to suggest that at normal viewing distances it doesn't look good. it does. But it is most definitely half the pixels per eye compared to full 1080p. And it can't be "interpolated up", because the checkerboard format (that only has ROOM for 1/2 the pixels per eye) is the native display format for rear projection 1080p.




I 'get' the 1/2 resolution per eye per wobble, but at 24fps, there are more than enough wobbles (120) to draw the entire frame per eye before the next distinct frame is due, no?


first half left -> first half right -> second half left -> second half right = 30 full frames per second. which is > 24. am I missing something here?


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *khee mao* /forum/post/18998252
> 
> 
> first half left -> first half right -> second half left -> second half right = 30 full frames per second. which is > 24. am I missing something here?



The fact that at framerates less than 60 the frames are just repeated. You can't make the sub-frame that you are representing as "second half left" do the 2nd half. The optical actuator (wobulation mirror) is vibrating back and forth at 60hz. It can't go left,right,right,left, and that's what it would have to do to be able to do what you suggest.


Just put in some 3d blu-ray, get close to the screen, and compare 2d and 3d. You can easily see it on aspects of the scene that aren't "flat". The flat portions do tend to zip together.


----------



## jjknatl

Anybody who sees green tinted blacks with Mits glasses on, interested in swapping a pair of your mits glasses for a pair of Optoma ZD101 DLP Link glasses? The PQ is fantastic with the Optomas, the best I have seen yet when compared to mits glasses and x102s, so long as you don't see the polarization rainbows. Note that they do require the reverse setting just like the x102s.


If no takers by tomorrow, I'm sending the Optomas back.


----------



## folgersnyourcup




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TViewer2000* /forum/post/18976744
> 
> 
> Well I know on the Plasmas and LCD when 3D mode is engaged it will increase brightness and contrast so compensate for the reduced light from the 3D glasses. I bet the Mits are doing the same thing, but maybe certain years or models are effected. Are you able to check and compare your video settings with the 3D off and on?



As I wrote about in the 3D display forum, my 2010 model 73-738 displays no green tint whatsoever when entering 3D mode. The 2009 model 73-837 I owned that stopped working showed a VERY prominent 3D tint when I activated 3D mode. Interesting...


----------



## jjhuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dreaux* /forum/post/18996731
> 
> 
> I just went D*, 3D blu-ray to open HDMI inputs on the 3D AV receiver then the receiver out to the 1000 starter kit in, and the out to the TV. The 3D receiver serves as a switcher.



I assume the D* works fine through your receiver? Also what 3D readt receiver are you using?


----------



## Av8tr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjhuiz* /forum/post/18996600
> 
> 
> Did you have to use the switch? I am considering buying the Pioneer 1020 and haven't been convinced that it will allow the pass through for D*. I have to have D* through my receiver as I have both D* and the PS3. Don't want to use a switch or have to manually plug and unplug them.



I am not using a switch. I bought one before I discovered my real problem, which was a CEC issue. I now use the 1020 AVR as the switching device.


----------



## Av8tr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dreaux* /forum/post/18996717
> 
> 
> Just curious...why did you need a spliter? Yeah I had to turn the CEC off as well, only because I am only using 1 HDMI into the set and don't want to set to auto detect since it had a habit of going to an unused HDMI input.



I didn't end up needing a splitter. I thought I was going to need one to have 1 HDMI going from the Directv box to the AVR, and 1 the adapter box. Now that I discovered that CEC was causing the problem, I have no trouble running everything thru the AVR.


----------



## jjhuiz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Av8tr* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I am not using a switch. I bought one before I discovered my real problem, which was a CEC issue. I now use the 1020 AVR as the switching device.



How do you like the 1020? I have an older 1018AH which is 1.3 hdmi...


----------



## steelers1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Av8tr* /forum/post/18999603
> 
> 
> I didn't end up needing a splitter. I thought I was going to need one to have 1 HDMI going from the Directv box to the AVR, and 1 the adapter box. Now that I discovered that CEC was causing the problem, I have no trouble running everything thru the AVR.



what does cec stand for?


----------



## pistonbrokeagain




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steelers1* /forum/post/18999642
> 
> 
> what does cec stand for?



"Steelers1" I had the same question regarding CEC. From the WEB....

_"Consumer Electronics Control (feature of the HDMI Version 1.3 video interface). CNEC Electronics Corp has commercialized four models of a 16-bit microcontroller with on-chip Flash memory (All Flash microcontroller), with a consumer electronics control (CEC) circuit enabling interdependent control of digital televisions, DVD recorders, and other audio-visual (AV) devices via a single cable connection."_


This Forum is really informative, i'm still waiting for my 3DC-1000 kit (Electronics Warehouse keeping me waiting), to go with my old (by current electronic device standards!) WD-73833 Mits TV and (hopefully 3D-upgradeable soon) PS3/Blu Ray player.


In the meantime i'm finding out from all you guys the nuances of this new technology and the input from all of you is really helping. I have the Denon AVR-3808CI, and from the posts it seems evident that HDMI 1.3 in general, doesn't cut it, though a few have posted it apparently works. Will probably cough up for a newer 1.4 compliant AVR and hope in a couple of years 1.5 is not the de-factum !


Many thanks to everyone who's posting on this thread.


----------



## steelers1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pistonbrokeagain* /forum/post/18999892
> 
> 
> "Steelers1" I had the same question regarding CEC. From the WEB....
> 
> _"Consumer Electronics Control (feature of the HDMI Version 1.3 video interface). CNEC Electronics Corp has commercialized four models of a 16-bit microcontroller with on-chip Flash memory (All Flash microcontroller), with a consumer electronics control (CEC) circuit enabling interdependent control of digital televisions, DVD recorders, and other audio-visual (AV) devices via a single cable connection."_
> 
> 
> This Forum is really informative, i'm still waiting for my 3DC-1000 kit (Electronics Warehouse keeping me waiting), to go with my old (by current electronic device standards!) WD-73833 Mits TV and (hopefully 3D-upgradeable soon) PS3/Blu Ray player.
> 
> 
> In the meantime i'm finding out from all you guys the nuances of this new technology and the input from all of you is really helping. I have the Denon AVR-3808CI, and from the posts it seems evident that HDMI 1.3 in general, doesn't cut it, though a few have posted it apparently works. Will probably cough up for a newer 1.4 compliant AVR and hope in a couple of years 1.5 is not the de-factum !
> 
> 
> Many thanks to everyone who's posting on this thread.



thank you for your help. have a nice day


----------



## dreaux




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjhuiz* /forum/post/18999413
> 
> 
> I assume the D* works fine through your receiver? Also what 3D readt receiver are you using?



Pioneer Elite VSX-31, but I believe any 3D ready 1.4 will work. Denon has a well priced one.


----------



## dreaux




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steelers1* /forum/post/18999642
> 
> 
> what does cec stand for?



As RU Geekman says...._Try having your installer turn off the HDMI CEC (Consumer Electronics Control) functionality in all of your components. CEC has been a nightmare from day one in terms of incompatibility issues. This link describes exactly what it does, and why it often doesn't work properly with connected equipment. This is a standards-issue, not a Mitsubishi issue._
http://www.hometheatermag.com/hookmeup/208hook/


----------



## hoddy4

Do you notice the screen becoming a greenish-blue (lack of black) and turning dark when in the 3D mode that some have complained about or is this something that is adjustable?


----------



## Av8tr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjhuiz* /forum/post/18999639
> 
> 
> How do you like the 1020? I have an older 1018AH which is 1.3 hdmi...



I'm liking it a lot, although I'm still open to sending it back and getting something different if I hear of another receiver that's better for a good price. I don't know much about audio equipment, but now the 3d and everything else works flawlessly connected thru this Panny 1020.


----------



## steelers1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dreaux* /forum/post/19001584
> 
> 
> As RU Geekman says...._Try having your installer turn off the HDMI CEC (Consumer Electronics Control) functionality in all of your components. CEC has been a nightmare from day one in terms of incompatibility issues. This link describes exactly what it does, and why it often doesn't work properly with connected equipment. This is a standards-issue, not a Mitsubishi issue._
> http://www.hometheatermag.com/hookmeup/208hook/



thanks


----------



## folgersnyourcup




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoddy4* /forum/post/19001730
> 
> 
> Do you notice the screen becoming a greenish-blue (lack of black) and turning dark when in the 3D mode that some have complained about or is this something that is adjustable?




This is my post a page back...


"As I wrote about in the 3D display forum, my 2010 model 73-738 displays no green tint whatsoever when entering 3D mode. The 2009 model 73-837 I owned that stopped working showed a VERY prominent 3D tint when I activated 3D mode. Interesting..."


*From the display thread*


"Originally Posted by audiopho

Never saw it.

Mine is 73837 model and I've been playing with 2d/3d mode for nearly 3 weeks now.


That is really interesting that you own the same set I had that exhibited the green tinting issue on 3D mode and you don't have the problem.


I think therefore it is safe to assume that the green tinting was not intentional by Mitsubishi as it is not present on any (to my knowledge) 2010 Mits models but IS present on some (but definitely not all) older models...


Sounds like a legitimate issue that I would certainly not settle for by any means if still under any warranty (either through store or manufacturer). I wonder what causes it?"


I don't have a television that exhibits this issue (I own 2010 model Mits) but would love to see resolution for those that do have this issue.


----------



## abouels0827

My last year model Mitsubishi. Does green n 3d nit once content comes on everything seems fine?


----------



## lujan

Has anyone else been able to get the 3D Starter Pack to work with their XX833 series TV? I've been having lots of problems. For one, the TV keeps changing the Input to "DVD" even though the instructions clearly state that we need to change the Input to "Game". Also, how can you tell that the 3D glasses are on because when you press the button on the glasses, the red light just turns on and then back off? Also, I can't seem to get the adapter to turn on, when I press power on the adapter, nothing happens? I tried calling Mitsubishi but they're more ignorant than I am on these issues so I thought I would try here. For background, I'm connected from the Panasonic BDT300 (HDMI Sub) to an Onkyo 905 for audio and from the Panasonic HDMI AV out to the XX833. Is there an order than I need to use to turn all these components on? There are four involved, TV, Receiver, BD Player and Adapter.


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/19003118
> 
> 
> Has anyone else been able to get the 3D Starter Pack to work with their XX833 series TV?



Yep! WD65833



> Quote:
> I've been having lots of problems. For one, the TV keeps changing the Input to "DVD" even though the instructions clearly state that we need to change the Input to "Game".



I have my adapter input labeled Game, and it does not change.



> Quote:
> Also, how can you tell that the 3D glasses are on because when you press the button on the glasses, the red light just turns on and then back off?



You can see the difference. Look through them while turning off/on. They are much brighter when they are off.



> Quote:
> Also, I can't seem to get the adapter to turn on, when I press power on the adapter, nothing happens? I tried calling Mitsubishi but they're more ignorant than I am on these issues so I thought I would try here. For background, I'm connected from the Panasonic BDT300 (HDMI Sub) to an Onkyo 905 for audio and from the Panasonic HDMI AV out to the XX833. Is there an order than I need to use to turn all these components on? There are four involved, TV, Receiver, BD Player and Adapter.



It sounds like you may have a problem there.


----------



## Scubawoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/19003108
> 
> 
> Has anyone else been able to get the 3D Starter Pack to work with their XX833 series TV? I've been having lots of problems. For one, the TV keeps changing the Input to "DVD" even though the instructions clearly state that we need to change the Input to "Game". Also, how can you tell that the 3D glasses are on because when you press the button on the glasses, the red light just turns on and then back off? Also, I can't seem to get the adapter to turn on, when I press power on the adapter, nothing happens? I tried calling Mitsubishi but they're more ignorant than I am on these issues so I thought I would try here. For background, I'm connected from the Panasonic BDT300 (HDMI Sub) to an Onkyo 905 for audio and from the Panasonic HDMI AV out to the XX833. Is there an order than I need to use to turn all these components on? There are four involved, TV, Receiver, BD Player and Adapter.



The instructions for the starter kit say to turn on the 3D sources first, then the adapter last. My setup and how I have it connected is similar to yours except I have the 350 and 73835. I haven't had any problems with green tint, etc. I don't know if with your tv it makes a difference what order you turn things on since the tv keeps changing the input name. For some reason it isn't saving it. Maybe try turning on the 300 before the tv to see if it keeps the name. When you push the button on the glasses you will see the lenses are lighter in color. It's easier to tell this if you have them on while pushing the button.


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *folgersnyourcup* /forum/post/19002770
> 
> 
> This is my post a page back...
> 
> 
> "As I wrote about in the 3D display forum, my 2010 model 73-738 displays no green tint whatsoever when entering 3D mode. The 2009 model 73-837 I owned that stopped working showed a VERY prominent 3D tint when I activated 3D mode. Interesting..."
> 
> 
> *From the display thread*
> 
> 
> "Originally Posted by audiopho
> 
> Never saw it.
> 
> Mine is 73837 model and I've been playing with 2d/3d mode for nearly 3 weeks now.
> 
> 
> That is really interesting that you own the same set I had that exhibited the green tinting issue on 3D mode and you don't have the problem.
> 
> 
> I think therefore it is safe to assume that the green tinting was not intentional by Mitsubishi as it is not present on any (to my knowledge) 2010 Mits models but IS present on some (but definitely not all) older models...
> 
> 
> Sounds like a legitimate issue that I would certainly not settle for by any means if still under any warranty (either through store or manufacturer). I wonder what causes it?"
> 
> 
> I don't have a television that exhibits this issue (I own 2010 model Mits) but would love to see resolution for those that do have this issue.



I have a new signal board part on order for the tech to replace In my TV. If that doesn't fix the issue. I have the retailer on stand by to work something out with me to get a WD-82738 series which I know does not have the green tint 3D issue.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18998494
> 
> 
> The fact that at framerates less than 60 the frames are just repeated. You can't make the sub-frame that you are representing as "second half left" do the 2nd half. The optical actuator (wobulation mirror) is vibrating back and forth at 60hz. It can't go left,right,right,left, and that's what it would have to do to be able to do what you suggest.
> 
> 
> Just put in some 3d blu-ray, get close to the screen, and compare 2d and 3d. You can easily see it on aspects of the scene that aren't "flat". The flat portions do tend to zip together.



Darin, are you using a convention for wobulation frequency where wobulation of the DMD covers both sub-frames in a cycle, hence 60Hz meaning a total of 120 sub-frames per second (60 left and 60 right when in 3D)? Or are you saying 60 Hz meaning 1 sub-frame per cycle, and hence 60 sub-frames per second (30 per eye in 3D)? I believe there are 120 sub-frames per second, and the glasses switch every 1/120 for a total of 60 sub-frames per eye, each sub-frame at 960x1080 resolution.


So, in 2D, it would seem that each frame of a NTSC/ATSC 30fps signal gets painted twice in 4 passes , sub-frame A, sub-frame B, subframe A, sub-frame B.


I agree, you can very easily see the drop in resolution due to wobulation, especially when within about 1 foot of the screen. With the 3D glasses on and in 3D mode, you can see the gaps between diamond shaped pixels of each sub-frame (shut left eye to see half resolution right eye pixels and vice versa), which your brain sums into a centered diamond shaped pixel with gaps around it when viewing with both eyes open (each eye still only seeing its dedicated sub-frame and the gaps therein). Look at the center of a solid color on the screen to do that. There is no interpolation going on to fill in the gaps via ovelapping pixels. Then, lift the glasses as if watching 2D and look at the center of the solid color again. This time, diamond pixels of both the sub-frames that overlap are seen by both eyes (or by either eye if you shut one) and when summed by the brain you essentially don't see a centered diamond shaped pixel since both eyes (or one eye if you shut one) see overlapping pixels from both the sub-frames. So, resolution reduction per eye by wobulation in 3D IS visible if you make the effort to see it (same tricks apply even with a 2D source viewed through 3D mode with 3D glasses on), but largely irrelevant in the grand scheme unless you like to watch closer than about 5 ft.


Now, when you back up to about 5 feet away, doing the same tests as above, you won't see the individual diamond pixels unless you have superhuman visual acuity.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/18976943
> 
> 
> Hmmm, now here's a post that _may_ substantiate my theory:
> 
> 
> Unless the Optoma's have a noticeably redder tint (when held up to white light) compared to the starter kit glasses, then that would suggest that the only reason for colors to look differently from one pair of glasses to the other would be because of shutter timing. If the Optoma's have a faster response time, or their timing offset (from the sync signal) is a little different from the kit glasses, then they may be completely closed during the DLP link flash, while the kit glasses aren't. .



I have done more testing on this topic before returning the Optomas. It is not the tint. If you wear the optomas on but with the receiver blocked, you see green. But the second the Optomas sync with the dlp link flash, the green tint is gone. It sure does look like the green tint/haze is the dlp flash, and it bleeds over when using the mits glasses for my setup so that with the mits glasses I still see the green tint/haze.


Would some kind person who sees the green tint with the emitter connected to the TV please connect the emitter to the adapter (with adapter to TV emitter port) and see if the green tint issue is lessened or eliminated? My install won't allow me to access the TV port without major headaches.


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19003917
> 
> 
> Would some kind person who sees the green tint with the emitter connected to the TV please connect the emitter to the adapter (with adapter to TV emitter port) and see if the green tint issue is lessened or eliminated? My install won't allow me to access the TV port without major headaches.



Mine is connected exactly as shown in the 3DC-1000 instruction manual, and I see the green tint which pretty much disappears with the glasses on. Are you looking for a different connection?
http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/pdf/OG-3DC1000.pdf


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scubawoman* /forum/post/19003568
> 
> 
> The instructions for the starter kit say to turn on the 3D sources first, then the adapter last. My setup and how I have it connected is similar to yours except I have the 350 and 73835. I haven't had any problems with green tint, etc. I don't know if with your tv it makes a difference what order you turn things on since the tv keeps changing the input name. For some reason it isn't saving it. Maybe try turning on the 300 before the tv to see if it keeps the name. When you push the button on the glasses you will see the lenses are lighter in color. It's easier to tell this if you have them on while pushing the button.



Thanks, I'll try it again tonight or tomorrow. I have another question, what is your 350 3D set for, "Checkerboard"? Does the "Full" even work on these TV's? I thought I read earlier on this thread that "Full" does not work, right?


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/19003968
> 
> 
> Mine is connected exactly as shown in the 3DC-1000 instruction manual, and I see the green tint which pretty much disappears with the glasses on. Are you looking for a different connection?
> http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/pdf/OG-3DC1000.pdf



Thanks! This gives me some hope that the emitter port on the adapter may be to adjust the emitter signal so as to get rid of the tint.


To verify this, could you possibly connect your emitter to the TV and see if the green goes away with the glasses on?


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19004195
> 
> 
> Thanks! This gives me some hope that the emitter port on the adapter may be to adjust the emitter signal so as to get rid of the tint.
> 
> 
> To verify this, could you possibly connect your emitter to the TV and see if the green goes away with the glasses on?



Also, if anyone knows a trick to turn off DLP Link while 3D mode is on for a mits dlp, please share.


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19004195
> 
> 
> To verify this, could you possibly connect your emitter to the TV and see if the green goes away with the glasses on?



Would that be swapping steps 2 & 3 on page 5 of the 3DC-1000 instruction manual: Emitter From TV / DIN cable from Adapter: 3D glasses emitter Out > to > Adapter: 3D glasses emmiter In? If so, I wouldn't be able to try that until much later tonight. Anyone else?


----------



## kevin6541




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19004337
> 
> 
> Also, if anyone knows a trick to turn off DLP Link while 3D mode is on for a mits dlp, please share.



AFAIK DLP Link is something that is inherent in the DLP system. It's just a fortunate circumstance that it flashes light inbetween each wobble. I think that the DLP link capable brands have just taken advantage of it. If this is the case, then turning it off would be impossible. But I could be wrong.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kevin6541* /forum/post/19004384
> 
> 
> AFAIK DLP Link is something that is inherent in the DLP system. It's just a fortunate circumstance that it flashes light inbetween each wobble. I think that the DLP link capable brands have just taken advantage of it. If this is the case, then turning it off would be impossible. But I could be wrong.



I believe that DLP Link (and the emitter output) is only active with 3D mode on and therefore it should be possible to turn it off if there is a software or hardware switch for it. However, either TI or mits may have not included such a switch, or accessibility to such a switch. I'm hoping a service manual might specify a trick to do so.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/19004371
> 
> 
> Would that be swapping steps 2 & 3 on page 5 of the 3DC-1000 instruction manual: Emitter From TV / DIN cable from Adapter: 3D glasses emitter Out > to > Adapter: 3D glasses emmiter In? If so, I wouldn't be able to try that until much later tonight. Anyone else?



Just unplug the cable from the TV that is currently between the adapter and TV. Then, unplug the emitter from the adapter and connect directly to the TV emitter port. So, the adapter is no longer in the chain as far as the emitter is concerned. emitter is direct to the TV. should be very simple and quick to do (and to reverse after testing), as long as you can physically access those ports.


----------



## kevin6541




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19004405
> 
> 
> I believe that DLP Link (and the emitter output) is only active with 3D mode on and therefore it should be possible to turn it off if there is a software or hardware switch for it. However, either TI or mits may have not included such a switch, or accessibility to such a switch. I'm hoping a service manual might specify a trick to do so.



Good point.


This might sound stupid, but I wonder, has anyone tried DLP link glasses without 3D mode on. I don't have them or I would be able to test myself. Which is also why I don't have a lot of knowledge about them.


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19004413
> 
> 
> Just unplug the cable from the TV that is currently between the adapter and TV. Then, unplug the emitter from the adapter and connect directly to the TV emitter port. So, the adapter is no longer in the chain as far as the emitter is concerned. emitter is direct to the TV. should be very simple and quick to do (and to reverse after testing), as long as you can physically access those ports.



Gotcha, but I won't be able to get to it anytime soon.

Any other volunteers?


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19003683
> 
> 
> Darin, are you using a convention for wobulation frequency where wobulation of the DMD covers both sub-frames in a cycle, hence 60Hz meaning a total of 120 sub-frames per second (60 left and 60 right when in 3D)?



Correct. 1hz = 1 cycle. If the wobulation mirror were operating at 1hz, that would mean it would move to position B, then back to A, within one second. Same thing for a speaker cone, or a sine-wave on a graph. One sub-frame (eye) is at one extreme on a sine wave, and the other sub-frame is at the opposite. So the mirror covers both positions within one cycle. Whether you're watching 2d, or 3d, these sets operate at 60 complete frames per second (60hz), or 120 sub-frames per second.


BUT, in 2d, the two sub-frames cover the same frame. 1/2 the pixels from a frame are covered in one sub-frame, and the other half in the other. Put them together, and you have all the pixels for a complete 1920x1080 frame in 1/60th of a second. But in 3d, the two sub-frames actually come from different frames. Or rather, two different perspectives of the same frame. So for those objects in the frame that are not "flat" (they are offset from one another to provide the perception of depth), those "two halves" won't "zip together". But the "flat" portions should. I could clearly see less resolution of fine detail on some text in 3d mode, but that text may have been "floating" in a different plane. I THINK the perception of less resolution will vary depending on "where" that object is supposed to be (in other words, the flat background may not have the perceived loss of resolution). But I haven't looked at it in enough detail to confirm that. It's hard to second guess how our eyes/brain will perceive that when the two eyes are prevented from seeing all the pixels together.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19003917
> 
> 
> I have done more testing on this topic before returning the Optomas. It is not the tint. If you wear the optomas on but with the receiver blocked, you see green. But the second the Optomas sync with the dlp link flash, the green tint is gone. It sure does look like the green tint/haze is the dlp flash, and it bleeds over when using the mits glasses for my setup so that with the mits glasses I still see the green tint/haze.



Now that I have some actual 3d content and have viewed it a little more, I'm not noticing any green tint. I do notice the poorer black level, but the blacks just seeem more gray, rather than green. And I'm using Samsung glasses. So I wonder if part of the difference in what people are seeing is depending on the TV, and the firmware of the TV. Maybe the flash is "faster" (only happens during the green segment of the wheel) on some models/firmwares, and slower on others (covers multiple segments, so it looks gray). IF all this is true, I maybe the "green tint" is preferable to non-green IF you have fast glasses (like your Optomas, apparently), because that's also less light to contaminate black-levels, but the "white flash" would be preferable for slower lenses, as it's probably better to just have black-level issues, than a color issue. But it's all just guessing at this point.


----------



## walford

Darin,

Do I understand corectly that when the TV is using the 3D Checkerboard as received to display 3D that the TV controls the wobulation so that it can "woble" for one eye and has time so that the TV can emit the White Flash required to reverse DLP-Link glases before it "wobles" for the other eye and that the TV also has time after each checkerboard frame is displayed to emit a White Flash before the next 3D checkerboard frame is displayed?

If you Pause the TV while displaying 3D checkerboard frames and use a magiifying glases to see the pixel pattern on the TV screen is it a 960x1080 pattern for only one eye with empty pixels for the other eye?


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/19004629
> 
> 
> Now that I have some actual 3d content and have viewed it a little more, I'm not noticing any green tint. I do notice the poorer black level, but the blacks just seeem more gray, rather than green.



Interesting. I see the same PQ as you do when viewing 3D content.

I'm using the Mits glasses with a 833 series TV, 9.01 FW (one rev below the latest).


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19004667
> 
> 
> Darin,
> 
> Do I understand corectly that when the TV is using the 3D Checkerboard as received to display 3D that the TV controls the wobulation so that it can "woble" for one eye and has time so that the TV can emit the White Flash required to reverse DLP-Link glases before it "wobles" for the other eye and that the TV also has time after each checkerboard frame is displayed to emit a White Flash before the next 3D checkerboard frame is displayed?



Honestly I don't know exactly how the DLP-link flash is timed, but there is no reason for it to _have_ to happen before the mirror moves away from one position to the other. It _could_ happen half-way while the mirror is shifting from one position to the other. It's just a quick flash of light - it doesn't have to provide any specific pixel format (no pattern).


> Quote:
> If you Pause the TV while displaying 3D checkerboard frames and use a magiifying glases to see the pixel pattern on the TV screen is it a 960x1080 pattern for only one eye with empty pixels for the other eye?



Anything you pause is going to be on an entire frame. Wobulation is continuous, and both eyes will continue to get their alternated images. In other words, when you pause, it will continuously alternate between the two sub-frames of the full frame that is paused. When you pause 3d, 3d is still there. The frame is frozen, but the two "halves" of that frame are still flipping back and forth at 120hz.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/19004771
> 
> 
> I'm using the Mits glasses with a 833 series TV, 9.01 FW (one rev below the latest).



I think if I tried to check the firmware on my set right now, I'd get in trouble.







But I have never updated it, so it's going to have whatever it came with when it was new almost exactly 2 years ago (73736).


----------



## mds54

^^^^^

Just to be clear, the FW rev I referred to is for the 833 series.

I don't know if it would be the same for newer models.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/19004595
> 
> 
> Correct. 1hz = 1 cycle.



Thanks. I'm well aware. Just making sure you weren't referring to one discrete movement of the mirror (from first sub-frame position to second sub-frame position) as a cycle, where 60 Hz would only be 60 sub-frames per second and therefore would have been incorrect.


120 sub-frames per second is the bottom line, to which we agree.


I see in a later post you refer to sub-frames switching back and forth at 120Hz during a paused frame. That's my point about convention. People can agree and not even know it because the oppsoing parties are making their points using different conventions for what a unit of measure applies to, in this case how we define a cycle.


----------



## audiopho




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/19004629
> 
> 
> Now that I have some actual 3d content and have viewed it a little more, I'm not noticing any green tint. I do notice the poorer black level, but the blacks just seeem more gray, rather than green. .



I am seeing a tad hazy black level in my 837 but it could be my poor vision in 3d mode.

Otherwise I'm not seeing any sort of green effect as some of you may have.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19005286
> 
> 
> I see in a later post you refer to sub-frames switching back and forth at 120Hz during a paused frame. That's my point about convention.



Yes, when I posted that I thought that might be confusing after my previous post. But I state it that way because these sets do display sub-frames @ 120hz, or full frames at 60hz. And they do _switch_ @ 120hz (since a sine wave does cross the center line twice in one complete cycle).


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiopho* /forum/post/19005368
> 
> 
> I am seeing a tad hazy black level in my 837 but it could be my poor vision in 3d mode.



That is one thing I'm a bit disapointed in, and DLP link must be the culprit. I wish there was a way to disable it, for those who use IR glasses.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/19005492
> 
> 
> And they do _switch_ @ 120hz (since a sine wave does cross the center line twice in one complete cycle).



Are you suggesting the wobulation mirror voice coil is driven by a sine wave? Considering you want it perfectly still for painting all 1080 lines, I would think it would be more of a square wave, or a train of DC pulses with 50% duty cycle if the wobulation mirror will return to the previous state between pulses by the action of the voice coil.


Should it be a train of DC pulses, the frequency would only by 60Hz.


I'll leave it at that. This topic is probably better served in another thread.


----------



## Scubawoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/19004187
> 
> 
> Thanks, I'll try it again tonight or tomorrow. I have another question, what is your 350 3D set for, "Checkerboard"? Does the "Full" even work on these TV's? I thought I read earlier on this thread that "Full" does not work, right?



I've always had it set at checkerboard. I haven't tried any other setting for it.


----------



## Milmanias




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/19004629
> 
> 
> Now that I have some actual 3d content and have viewed it a little more, I'm not noticing any green tint. I do notice the poorer black level, but the blacks just seeem more gray, rather than green.



I just got my 73C9 about a month ago and haven't saved enough yet to buy the adapter kit. So how much does the poor black levels (or green tint for those who have that instead) affect the enjoyment of these sets in 3d? Did I just screw myself by buying this tv? From what I read on another thread, the 738/838 models don't have the green tint when they switch 3d mode on so they might not be affected with these problems.


----------



## rsnyder005

[ just got my 73C9 about a month ago and haven't saved enough yet to buy the adapter kit. So how much does the poor black levels (or green tint for those who have that instead) affect the enjoyment of these sets in 3d? Did I just screw myself by buying this tv? From what I read on another thread, the 738/838 models don't have the green tint when they switch 3d mode on so they might not be affected with these problems.]


I have the 73835 and all of those issues go away when actually viewing 3D content-problem ia I need to a. change my picture setting from natural to bright. b. set the tv to 3D mode and c. turn on the adapter every time I watch 3D


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19005524
> 
> 
> Are you suggesting the wobulation mirror voice coil is driven by a sine wave?



No, but when trying to clarify the 60hz / 120 positions per second confusion, a sine wave is an easy example for visualization. But a square wave works too.







[/quote]


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milmanias* /forum/post/19006250
> 
> 
> So how much does the poor black levels (or green tint for those who have that instead) affect the enjoyment of these sets in 3d?



Well, it is something I notice. The bars of anything with an aspect ratio less than 16x9 are noticeably gray rather than black, and the image does appear to have less contrast. But since the DLP flash should technically happen between frames, fast glasses _should_ be able to help alleviate the issue.


At this point in time, it seems every 3d capable set has it's own set of pros and cons. These may have the DLP link flash, and the lower resolution per eye issue, but they have must faster response than any other technology (which can eliminate any ghosting due to the display, if the glasses get good enough), and they are a steal compared to the cost of other 3d sets. Overall, I think they are a great choice.


----------



## walford

Darin,

Is is correct that when you do a pause on your TV when playing 3D content and have no glases on the image you see the blurred 3DCheckerboard image and not a 960x1080 or 1920x1080 unblurred image ?


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19006507
> 
> 
> Darin,
> 
> Is is correct that when you do a pause on your TV when playing 3D content and have no glases on the image you see the blurred 3DCheckerboard image and not a 960x1080 or 1920x1080 unblurred image ?



I'm not speaking for Darin, but what you see without glasses are both sub-frames being displayed to both eyes. So, the overall image you see after factoring in wobulation is 1920x1080 pixels because each eye sees both sub-frames. However, because it is 3D content in your example, each sub-frame is created from a different frame and therefore you still see the effect of less resolution per sub-frame content (because 3D uses two somewhat different frames to create the depth) and so if you look at each of the doubled edges of an object being displayed in double, you can see unwobulated detail, i.e., less resolution for the edges of that object.


However, looking at the center of a solid colored object with the glasses off, the resolution benefit of wobulation can still be seen because the pixel overlap from one sub-frame and the next melds together to give the appearance of smaller pixel size and eliminates the gap/border around each of the sub-frame pixels. Put the glasses back on, and you'll see what appears to be sub-frame pixels with the borders being visible in the center of the solid colored object. These sub-frame pixels are what the brain creates by summing the two sub-frames, because each eye is only seeing its dedicated sub-frame due to the shutter glasses. So, up close, a 3D frame viewed through the glasses looks like an unwobulated image, i.e., 960x1080. And therein lies the real downside to wobulation with 3D content that is not an issue for 2D content. But, at a distance, I don't really notice much if at all so I'm happy, especially looking at the $ saved.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/19006372
> 
> 
> But since the DLP flash should technically happen between frames, fast glasses _should_ be able to help alleviate the issue.



Darin, is your emitter connected to the TV or adapter? Does connecting the emitter through the adapter help the DLP Link issue relative to the emitter being connected to the TV?


I can't seem to get anyone on the forum to run that test anytime soon. It's probably a long shot that the adapter in the emitter chain will help, but I'm hopeful.


Also, the fact that MDEA says you can't daisy chain the emitter connections among multiple adapters makes me wonder if the adapter is altering emitter timing so that two adapters in a row would double the alteration to the signal and thereby foul it up.


----------



## bcterp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19007037
> 
> 
> Darin, is your emitter connected to the TV or adapter? Does connecting the emitter through the adapter help the DLP Link issue relative to the emitter being connected to the TV?
> 
> 
> I can't seem to get anyone on the forum to run that test anytime soon. It's probably a long shot that the adapter in the emitter chain will help, but I'm hopeful.
> 
> 
> Also, the fact that MDEA says you can't daisy chain the emitter connections among multiple adapters makes me wonder if the adapter is altering emitter timing so that two adapters in a row would double the alteration to the signal and thereby foul it up.



Hi jjknatl,


I have my emitter connected to the adapter and have lightened/slightly greenish blacks. Tonight I will connect it to the TV and report back if there is any noticeable difference.


----------



## walford




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19006936
> 
> 
> I'm not speaking for Darin, but what you see without glasses are both sub-frames being displayed to both eyes. So, the overall image you see after factoring in wobulation is 1920x1080 pixels because each eye sees both sub-frames. However, because it is 3D content in your example, each sub-frame is created from a different frame and therefore you still see the effect of less resolution per sub-frame content (because 3D uses two somewhat different frames to create the depth) and so if you look at each of the doubled edges of an object being displayed in double, you can see unwobulated detail, i.e., less resolution for the edges of that object.
> 
> 
> However, looking at the center of a solid colored object with the glasses off, the resolution benefit of wobulation can still be seen because the pixel overlap from one sub-frame and the next melds together to give the appearance of smaller pixel size and eliminates the gap/border around each of the sub-frame pixels. Put the glasses back on, and you'll see what appears to be sub-frame pixels with the borders being visible in the center of the solid colored object. These sub-frame pixels are what the brain creates by summing the two sub-frames, because each eye is only seeing its dedicated sub-frame due to the shutter glasses. So, up close, a 3D frame viewed through the glasses looks like an unwobulated image, i.e., 960x1080. And therein lies the real downside to wobulation with 3D content that is not an issue for 2D content. But, at a distance, I don't really notice much if at all so I'm happy, especially looking at the $ saved.



Was your TV in Pause mode during your test you described above?

If both eyes were seing both subframes then the image would be very blurry if you are seiing both subframes of the incoming checkerboard content concuently.


----------



## Milmanias




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/19006372
> 
> 
> At this point in time, it seems every 3d capable set has it's own set of pros and cons. These may have the DLP link flash, and the lower resolution per eye issue, but they have must faster response than any other technology (which can eliminate any ghosting due to the display, if the glasses get good enough), and they are a steal compared to the cost of other 3d sets. Overall, I think they are a great choice.



I know; the price point was more than right for a 73" set (thanks, Dell and Bing). I was aware of the halved resolution and overscan, just was a bit disappointed to read a drawback of this tv I didn't plan to have. It doesn't worry me as much for movies or tv watching, but some of the videogames get pretty dark and a slight green haze would affect the experience. I'm very happy with the PQ of the set in 2d; Mass Effect 2 looked amazing, especially the fine detail seen on Grunt.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19007483
> 
> 
> Was your TV in Pause mode during your test you described above?
> 
> If both eyes were seing both subframes then the image would be very blurry if you are seiing both subframes of the incoming checkerboard content concuently.



Yes. What I refer to as a doubled object is what you are call blurry.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milmanias* /forum/post/19007604
> 
> 
> I know; the price point was more than right for a 73" set (thanks, Dell and Bing). I was aware of the halved resolution and overscan, just was a bit disappointed to read a drawback of this tv I didn't plan to have. It doesn't worry me as much for movies or tv watching, but some of the videogames get pretty dark and a slight green haze would affect the experience. I'm very happy with the PQ of the set in 2d; Mass Effect 2 looked amazing, especially the fine detail seen on Grunt.



Try optoma glasses and hope you don't see the polarization rainbow. Optomas eliminate the green entirely on my c9.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19007037
> 
> 
> Darin, is your emitter connected to the TV or adapter?



It's connected directly to the TV. Unfortunately my adapter still hasn't shipped. The only content I can view at this time is 3d blu-ray via checkerboard output from an HTPC. The reason for routing the emitter through the adapter remains a mystery, and altering the timing of that signal is certainly a possibility. I too look forward to bcterp's test. I don't know if ABT will _ever_ ship my adapter.


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/19007692
> 
> 
> I don't know if ABT will _ever_ ship my adapter.



Any reason you don't/can't cancel the ABT order and go with someone that shows them in stock, like www.vanns.com?


----------



## Jesse E




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rad* /forum/post/19007744
> 
> 
> Any reason you don't/can't cancel the ABT order and go with someone that shows them in stock, like www.vanns.com?



They don't have the adapter(3-DA1) in stock.

Only the Starter Kit is in stock.


----------



## diamondpilot

I have two WD-82837's. Just got my 3dc-1000 yesterday.

I noticed the poor black level issue immediately, and it drives me crazy.


It seems as though mits has jacked up the brightness (black level) of the picture when 3D mode is turned on in the TV.


Even with the glasses off you notice as soon as you activate the 3D mode that all black areas light up as though you turned the brightness control way up on a CRT TV. Everything is bluish-white where it should be black.


Interestingly enough, adjusting the picture controls on the TV will not compensate for this. With the brightness all the way down, the blacks are still illuminated and not black. Contrast doesn't help either, nor do any of the ISF settings.


It seems to be that the "Brilliant" picture setting, which I would not use on standard content, provides the best perceived contrast in 3D mode. This is using the only 3D Blu-Ray I've been able to acquire, which is "Cloudy with a chance of Meatballs."


I am EXTREMELY disappointed in this. You don't spend $8000 for a pair of high-end TV's and expect to get horrible blacks and a washed out picture.


This is a TV clearly marketed to the videophile, and this to me is an unacceptable flaw.


From what I've read on other threads, the problem does not exist in the 2010 models but does exist in all previous 3D DLPs from Mits.


I sure hope they come out with a firmware update to fix this.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jesse E* /forum/post/19007890
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rad* /forum/post/19007744
> 
> 
> Any reason you don't/can't cancel the ABT order and go with someone that shows them in stock, like www.vanns.com?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They don't have the adapter(3-DA1) in stock.
> 
> Only the Starter Kit is in stock.
Click to expand...


Not only that, only half of me is excited about getting it. The other half is dreading it. I still haven't decided how I'm going to deal with the whole Mitsubishi/DirecTV EDID fiasco. At this point, I'm just considering suspending my DirecTV account for a month, so they are effectively paying for me to get an HDMI Detective. There's a couple ways to deal with this, I just haven't decided on which one. But not routing my video through my AVR is not one that I'm considering.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *diamondpilot* /forum/post/19008044
> 
> 
> Interestingly enough, adjusting the picture controls on the TV will not compensate for this. With the brightness all the way down, the blacks are still illuminated and not black. Contrast doesn't help either, nor do any of the ISF settings.



At this point we are presuming that it's the DLP link flash that is causing this. If true, that flash is not part of the "picture", so adjusting those controls wouldn't help. Technically, that flash should happen while the glasses are closed. But like you, I notice it through the glasses as well. If it IS the DLP link flash, then hopefully faster glasses or better timing could eventually help. But as I said earlier, it would be REALLY nice if they could offer a firmware update that provides the option to disable DLP link. It's completely unnecessary if you use IR glasses. It doesn't ruin it for me, but it is a disappointment.


----------



## JamesN




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *diamondpilot* /forum/post/19008044
> 
> 
> ...It seems to be that the "Brilliant" picture setting, which I would not use on standard content, provides the best perceived contrast in 3D mode...



That's a double-edged sword. Brilliant Mode is the only mode in which I notice ghosting on my DLP RPTV.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcterp* /forum/post/19007059
> 
> 
> Hi jjknatl,
> 
> 
> I have my emitter connected to the adapter and have lightened/slightly greenish blacks. Tonight I will connect it to the TV and report back if there is any noticeable difference.



Awesome, thanks. Bummer for us all that you still see the greenish blacks using the adapter's emitter connections. Sad to say, but I hope your problem gets worse when you connect the emitter to your TV. I would say that my setup is producing more than just a slight greenish black, so there is still hope that the adapter is providing an improvement. Keeping fingers crossed.


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *diamondpilot* /forum/post/19008044
> 
> 
> I have two WD-82837's. Just got my 3dc-1000 yesterday.
> 
> I noticed the poor black level issue immediately, and it drives me crazy.
> 
> 
> It seems as though mits has jacked up the brightness (black level) of the picture when 3D mode is turned on in the TV.
> 
> 
> Even with the glasses off you notice as soon as you activate the 3D mode that all black areas light up as though you turned the brightness control way up on a CRT TV. Everything is bluish-white where it should be black.
> 
> 
> Interestingly enough, adjusting the picture controls on the TV will not compensate for this. With the brightness all the way down, the blacks are still illuminated and not black. Contrast doesn't help either, nor do any of the ISF settings.
> 
> 
> It seems to be that the "Brilliant" picture setting, which I would not use on standard content, provides the best perceived contrast in 3D mode. This is using the only 3D Blu-Ray I've been able to acquire, which is "Cloudy with a chance of Meatballs."
> 
> 
> I am EXTREMELY disappointed in this. You don't spend $8000 for a pair of high-end TV's and expect to get horrible blacks and a washed out picture.
> 
> 
> This is a TV clearly marketed to the videophile, and this to me is an unacceptable flaw.
> 
> 
> From what I've read on other threads, the problem does not exist in the 2010 models but does exist in all previous 3D DLPs from Mits.
> 
> 
> I sure hope they come out with a firmware update to fix this.



Call Mits and let them know whats going on! The more people call about the "Green" 3D, the faster they may get a fix!


----------



## George Omoregie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/19009342
> 
> 
> Call Mits and let them know whats going on! The more people call about the "Green" 3D, the faster they may get a fix!



In 3D mode, I noticed the screen turned green.

I called Mitsu yesterday and got a return call today. I have logged my complaints to the customer service dept regarding this green effect.

This can not be normal. The tech guy I spoke with yesterday, told me it is normal, I told him it should not be normal.

Ekpen


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *George Omoregie* /forum/post/19009389
> 
> 
> The tech guy I spoke with yesterday, told me it is normal, I told him it should not be normal.



I would ask him to send you something in writing saying that it is "normal" for Mitsubishi TVs to have a green cast in 3d mode. That doesn't sound like something they would want to be the perception of their TVs to be.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/19009421
> 
> 
> I would ask him to send you something in writing saying that it is "normal" for Mitsubishi TVs to have a green cast in 3d mode. That doesn't sound like something they would want to be the perception of their TVs to be.



The class of plaintiffs is growing.


----------



## Hyabusha

Anyone here have the "Green" 3D effect and their TV Is less than a year old? Have you tried to ask your retailer for a replacement 2010 738 series which we all know has been "fixed or cured" for 3D?


----------



## bcterp

So I tested out what effect the emitter might have when connected to the TV or to the adapter. I repeatedly played back a few dark scenes from directv and I really couldn't notice any difference. Perhaps there's a difference if I could test it side by side and not have to spend time rewiring the emitter. For good measure I also tried out a pair of X102's that I have and they seemed to perform the same. I emailed MDEA with a detailed explanation, not that I expect much in return. Hopefully some other people can repeat this test and see if they notice any difference. Why Mits recommends connecting the emitter to the adapter remains a mystery to me.


----------



## hoddy4

So have we established that the issue with the 3D not occur with the 2010s, but occur with all previous ones including the WD-73C9. Does it occur for all sources including the Panasonic 3D DVD player that outputs in a format not requiring an adapter? Do the glasses make any difference? For example, would I have better results with the Xpand, Optoma, or Viewsonic that do not require an emitter? I saw the Samsung BD-C6800 3D, DVD player today. Has anyone used it with one of the Mitsubishis in 3D?


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoddy4* /forum/post/19010018
> 
> 
> So have we established that the issue with the 3D not occur with the 2010s, but occur with all previous ones including the WD-73C9.



What issue are you talking about? If it's the green cast, no, I have a two year older 73736 that doesn't have a green cast. But I do have poor black levels in 3d mode. But if THAT's the issue you're talking about, I would expect the answer is no to that as well... I would expect that to be present on ALL models, including 2010, since the logical explanation for it is DLP link. It's just that on some models, it appears the "flash" is white, while on others it appears green.


----------



## hoddy4

I'm a little new to this forum. I guess what I'm asking is what can I expect from the WD-73c9. If the flash is white, the reduced black levels will be present? If the flash is green, the screen will appear greenish? Based upon the previous explanation, it sounds like the glasses won't make a difference.


----------



## Av8tr

Will the 3DC-1000 be of use in a PS3 once the 3d update for the PS3 comes out? In other words will it be able to change the format from frame packing to checkerboard? I think it will but not sure.


----------



## MrVizio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/19007692
> 
> 
> It's connected directly to the TV. Unfortunately my adapter still hasn't shipped. The only content I can view at this time is 3d blu-ray via checkerboard output from an HTPC. The reason for routing the emitter through the adapter remains a mystery, and altering the timing of that signal is certainly a possibility. I too look forward to bcterp's test. I don't know if ABT will _ever_ ship my adapter.



I'm curious about your HTPC setup for 3D. Are you actually playing Blu-rays from your PC, or are they downloaded Blu-ray files (such as from a newsgroup)? What video card are you using? What software for playback (such as VLC, etc.)? As of now I use my PC as my home theater, but am going to put together a new PC soon. Would like it to be 3D compatible with my new WD-65738 and 3D starter kit. Thanks.


----------



## Zapix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcterp* /forum/post/19009838
> 
> 
> Hopefully some other people can repeat this test and see if they notice any difference. Why Mits recommends connecting the emitter to the adapter remains a mystery to me.



Tried it out earlier tonight and I didn't see any difference, except perhaps a minor difference in brightness, being more bright plugged directly in. Really hard to know for sure though, the difference I think I saw was barely noticable, so I'm not even sure if I really saw a difference.


----------



## tfried

For anyone who has yet to purchase the starter kit, buy.com has it for $250 + $11 s/h.


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tfried* /forum/post/19011071
> 
> 
> For anyone who has yet to purchase the starter kit, buy.com has it for $250 + $11 s/h.



A search at Amazon shows the same price. It lists Buy.com as the seller. Wow - huge price drop nearly overnight! Early adopters of new tech beware....


----------



## walford




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcterp* /forum/post/19009838
> 
> 
> Why Mits recommends connecting the emitter to the adapter remains a mystery to me.



I saw one post a while back that stated tha connecting it the adapter insures that the emitter is turned off when the adapter is turned off.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MrVizio* /forum/post/19010538
> 
> 
> I'm curious about your HTPC setup for 3D. Are you actually playing Blu-rays from your PC, or are they downloaded Blu-ray files (such as from a newsgroup)? What video card are you using? What software for playback (such as VLC, etc.)? As of now I use my PC as my home theater, but am going to put together a new PC soon. Would like it to be 3D compatible with my new WD-65738 and 3D starter kit. Thanks.



I'm using an nvidia GT 240 video card and PowerDVD10. It will play back blu-rays and output in checkerboard format. You could also play back ISOs with something to mount them (like clondrive), but I don't think it will play back other formats (though I could be wrong).


----------



## dreaux




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Athlon646464* /forum/post/19011087
> 
> 
> A search at Amazon shows the same price. It lists Buy.com as the seller. Wow - huge price drop nearly overnight! Early adopters of new tech beware....



Ouch! Guess I should have waited.


----------



## BillFree

Same for me today. amazon says unable to obtain shipping date ($399) yet buy.com has item $250 (3) new available. If so back orders should be $250 from Amazon not $399. What gives?


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Athlon646464* /forum/post/19011087
> 
> 
> A search at Amazon shows the same price. It lists Buy.com as the seller. Wow - huge price drop nearly overnight! Early adopters of new tech beware....



I guess this means that they are no longer in short supply


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillFree* /forum/post/19011612
> 
> 
> Same for me today. amazon says unable to obtain shipping date ($399) yet buy.com has item $250 (3) new available. If so back orders should be $250 from Amazon not $399. What gives?



That's a question better directed to Amazon.


However, be aware that there is a difference when it says 'Sold & shipped by Amazon' rather than 'Sold & shipped by buy.com'. You may very well have two different prices. You would have no recourse under that scenario.


----------



## RU Geekman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmalter0* /forum/post/19011632
> 
> 
> I guess this means that they are no longer in short supply



Yes and no. Buy.com indicates they have 3, which probably means 0. I just got ten of these in stock today, so I am rather hoping you are wrong.


----------



## Natrix1973

Thanks for the Buy.com heads up. I just placed an order much better price to swallow for the kit.


----------



## Sunnie

dateThu, Aug 5, 2010 at 2:24 PM

subjectRe: TX-SR508 related question from Onkyo website

mailed-byus.onkyo.com


hide details 2:24 PM (20 hours ago)



Thank You for contacting Onkyo USA Product Support.


We apologize for the delay in responding to your email. We are experiencing a heavy volume of inquiries. We appreciate your patience and understanding.


We are going to test that adapter (Mitsubishi 3DA1) in our lab to see if it is compatible with our the 508 or other 3d enabled units. Please get back to us on Monday.



Eric Martinez


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/19003108
> 
> 
> Has anyone else been able to get the 3D Starter Pack to work with their XX833 series TV? I've been having lots of problems. For one, the TV keeps changing the Input to "DVD" even though the instructions clearly state that we need to change the Input to "Game". Also, how can you tell that the 3D glasses are on because when you press the button on the glasses, the red light just turns on and then back off? Also, I can't seem to get the adapter to turn on, when I press power on the adapter, nothing happens? I tried calling Mitsubishi but they're more ignorant than I am on these issues so I thought I would try here. For background, I'm connected from the Panasonic BDT300 (HDMI Sub) to an Onkyo 905 for audio and from the Panasonic HDMI AV out to the XX833. Is there an order than I need to use to turn all these components on? There are four involved, TV, Receiver, BD Player and Adapter.



I finally got this fixed. The Panasonic player had "Viera Cast" turned on which meant the Mitsubishi "Net Command" kept detecting the player and then changed the name to "DVD" which meant I couldn't change it to "Game" so that the 3D stuff would work. Now the only problem is, the audio doesn't work for the HD Audio but keeps only doing 2-channel stereo. I have an Onkyo 905 and does anyone know if the adapter is having problems with the Onkyo's. It seems there is a posting from an Onkyo contact saying that they're going to test the adapter with the Onkyo's? Oh no, now that I've got the Video working right, I'm going to have trouble with the Audio? Early adopters like us are, I guess, just asking for it.


----------



## nevets14




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/19009342
> 
> 
> Call Mits and let them know whats going on! The more people call about the "Green" 3D, the faster they may get a fix!



Is this really a problem I should call about?

I have a 65837 and when I put it in 3d mode, I don't notice the green tint as much as I notice the brightness and contrast go down.


If thats not normal, I would like to get it fixed.


----------



## bhalbower

I hope you guys never have to call Mits for support on your starter kit. I have been going back and forth with Mits for 2 weeks now trying to get them to replace my emitter, (I keep having to unplug and plug it back in for it to work). Mits has no way for you to contact a customer service rep directly. You have to call the main desk, get put on hole for 3 minutes only to be told that someone will call you back. They never return calls and when I finally get them to commit to a solution; they ask me to send them the adapter and the emitter. Arrggg!!! I told them that the problem has nothing to do with the adapter because I can plug it directly into the TV and it does the same thing, but they still insist I sent them the adapter. I sent them the emitter today, they aren’t getting my adapter. All the frustration with their support is making me reconsider ever buying another Mits product, even though I love my TV.


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/19012771
> 
> 
> I finally got this fixed. The Panasonic player had "Viera Cast" turned on which meant the Mitsubishi "Net Command" kept detecting the player and then changed the name to "DVD" which meant I couldn't change it to "Game" so that the 3D stuff would work. Now the only problem is, the audio doesn't work for the HD Audio but keeps only doing 2-channel stereo. I have an Onkyo 905 and does anyone know if the adapter is having problems with the Onkyo's. It seems there is a posting from an Onkyo contact saying that they're going to test the adapter with the Onkyo's? Oh no, now that I've got the Video working right, I'm going to have trouble with the Audio? Early adopters like us are, I guess, just asking for it.



I've now spoken with Mitsubishi, Panasonic, and Onkyo and wasted the whole day. I'm glad I got my video to work with 3D but now I only get 2-channel audio. The last ones I called (Onkyo) say I need a HDMI version 1.4 receiver for the 3D to work correctly with audio. I paid $1,500 for the Onkyo and am not about to go get another one at this point. I guess I will have to live with only 2-channel audio when I watch a 3D movie?


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/19013350
> 
> 
> I've now spoken with Mitsubishi, Panasonic, and Onkyo and wasted the whole day. I'm glad I got my video to work with 3D but now I only get 2-channel audio. The last ones I called (Onkyo) say I need a HDMI version 1.4 receiver for the 3D to work correctly with audio. I paid $1,500 for the Onkyo and am not about to go get another one at this point. I guess I will have to live with only 2-channel audio when I watch a 3D movie?



Did you try setting Panasonic to checkerboard, turn off HDMI Sub, Plug HDMI main to Onkyo then Onkyo to TV? The recieve can pass checkerboard with audio. My 807 has no problems passing it.


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenisG* /forum/post/19013478
> 
> 
> Did you try setting Panasonic to checkerboard, turn off HDMI Sub, Plug HDMI main to Onkyo then Onkyo to TV? The recieve can pass checkerboard with audio. My 807 has no problems passing it.



Are you suggesting not using the Panasonic HDMI Sub at all? Because I already have it connected to the Receiver this way for all other BD disks. All I've done differently for 3D is change the TV's input from HDMI 1 to HDMI 2 (which is connected to the 3D adapter). If I do it the way you're suggesting, all of my other HDMI components will be going through the Onkyo, then the 3D adapter and then to the TV. Will this have any effect on the other components? BYW, I have the Panasonic set to "Checkerboard".


----------



## Scubawoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/19012771
> 
> 
> I finally got this fixed. The Panasonic player had "Viera Cast" turned on which meant the Mitsubishi "Net Command" kept detecting the player and then changed the name to "DVD" which meant I couldn't change it to "Game" so that the 3D stuff would work. Now the only problem is, the audio doesn't work for the HD Audio but keeps only doing 2-channel stereo. I have an Onkyo 905 and does anyone know if the adapter is having problems with the Onkyo's. It seems there is a posting from an Onkyo contact saying that they're going to test the adapter with the Onkyo's? Oh no, now that I've got the Video working right, I'm going to have trouble with the Audio? Early adopters like us are, I guess, just asking for it.



I don't have any problem with the 350 and 905 so I'm sure you'll get it to work. You don't need a 1.4 avr.

Make sure you go into the setup menu for the 300 to change the settings to have HDMI sub v off before playing 3D or blu-ray. (This just means it won't pass video, just audio) If it isn't, you will only get pcm, when it is turned off you will get lossless when bitstreaming. For some reason each time I turn off the 350 I have to reset this setting as well as resolution when turning it back on again.


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/19013564
> 
> 
> Are you suggesting not using the Panasonic HDMI Sub at all? Because I already have it connected to the Receiver this way for all other BD disks. All I've done differently for 3D is change the TV's input from HDMI 1 to HDMI 2 (which is connected to the 3D adapter). If I do it the way you're suggesting, all of my other HDMI components will be going through the Onkyo, then the 3D adapter and then to the TV. Will this have any effect on the other components? BYW, I have the Panasonic set to "Checkerboard".



Yes, go HDMI Main strait to receiver, then receiver to TV. Set the Panasonic to checkerboard in the setup menu. Get the adapter out of there, you don't need to convert checkerboard to checkerboard. Turn off all the HDMI Sub setting. It will work fine.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RU Geekman* /forum/post/19012021
> 
> 
> Yes and no. Buy.com indicates they have 3, which probably means 0.



I ordered one from buy.com sometime between 9:30 and 10 this morning, and I already have a tracking number. Thanks for the heads up tfried! So I'm finally cancelling my backorder for the adapter only from ABT. I only needed the adapter, but for the lowered price I can probably sell the glasses, disc, and emitter and still be better off.


----------



## lujan

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Scubawoman* 
I don't have any problem with the 350 and 905 so I'm sure you'll get it to work. You don't need a 1.4 avr.

Make sure you go into the setup menu for the 300 to change the settings to have HDMI sub v off before playing 3D or blu-ray. (This just means it won't pass video, just audio) If it isn't, you will only get pcm, when it is turned off you will get lossless when bitstreaming. For some reason each time I turn off the 350 I have to reset this setting as well as resolution when turning it back on again.
Quote:

Originally Posted by *DenisG* 
Yes, go HDMI Main strait to receiver, then receiver to TV. Set the Panasonic to checkerboard in the setup menu. Get the adapter out of there, you don't need to convert checkerboard to checkerboard. Turn off all the HDMI Sub setting. It will work fine.
So these are my choices above. Either set the 300 to HDMI sub v off and keep having to reset it every time I turn it on. Also, it seems the last time I set this to off, I couldn't see anything on the screen to change the settings and had to do a factory reset when I called Panasonic. Or change it to go directly through the Onkyo in which case I paid $400.00 for the adapter for nothing because I don't need it. Does this sound right? I've attached my hookup settings so that you have a better idea. Maybe I'm making things more complicated than they need to be?

 

MySetup.pdf 89.7509765625k . file


----------



## Scubawoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/19014068
> 
> 
> So these are my choices above. Either set the 300 to HDMI sub v off and keep having to reset it every time I turn it on. Also, it seems the last time I set this to off, I couldn't see anything on the screen to change the settings and had to do a factory reset when I called Panasonic. Or change it to go directly through the Onkyo in which case I paid $400.00 for the adapter for nothing because I don't need it. Does this sound right? I've attached my hookup settings so that you have a better idea. Maybe I'm making things more complicated than they need to be?



If you are only going to use the 300 as your only 3D source then you don't need the adapter, just the emitter and the glasses. Since the 300 outputs checkerboard which the 833 will accept you can connect HDMI main to the 833 directly and then HDMI sub to the 905 like you have (that's how I have mine connected). You still have to go into the setup screen to change HDMI sub v off each time. Hopefully they'll come up with a firmware update to keep this from being necessary. You have to do this as well to watch blu-ray, not just 3D blu-ray. If you are going to use Directv or other sat/cable for 3D, or get another 3D source in the future that doesn't output checkerboard you need the adapter. I couldn't get the 350 to output to the tv when I tried to use the main HDMI through the 905 so that's why I went the route of using both HDMI on the 350. I kept getting the message there wasn't a 3D tv connected even though I set the 350 to checkerboard.


----------



## steelers1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Natrix1973* /forum/post/19012052
> 
> 
> Thanks for the Buy.com heads up. I just placed an order much better price to swallow for the kit.



i hope you get it at that price. because i went there and the price went up to $399.00. good luck


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tfried* /forum/post/19011071
> 
> 
> For anyone who has yet to purchase the starter kit, buy.com has it for $250 + $11 s/h.




Thanks tfried!! I got a price match! ^_^


----------



## jheadley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scrappler* /forum/post/18976373
> 
> 
> I have the same problem-I'm using a 73833 and HR24 (Not sure on the FW). When changing to and from 3D I get the blue screen. I've had some luck cycling through the inputs and it sometimes (1 out of 5) picks the signal back up. Last night I picked up another trick which was to switch the mode from "game" to "dvr" and it picked up the Directv 2d signal instantly. It's a little easier than the hit or miss input cycling or waiting for the HR24 to boot up each time you want to change the channel between 3d/2d.
> 
> I called Mits yesterday and they are going to escalate the issue but I need to be home to finish the call and get them the info they need which won't be until the weekend. I'll post if I get a good fix for the 833's issues.
> 
> 
> Does anyone with an 833 have it working without issues?



I have a 833 and I can't get a picture at all with the 3d adaptor, 2d or 3d. Not with the directv receiver or my ps3. I have the input set to game like the instructions say, but no luck at all. Just a blue screen.


----------



## rad

I have the 3DC on my WD73735 connected to HDMI1 and left the input name at HDMI1 and I get 2D and 3D through it.


----------



## bcterp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zapix* /forum/post/19010562
> 
> 
> Tried it out earlier tonight and I didn't see any difference, except perhaps a minor difference in brightness, being more bright plugged directly in. Really hard to know for sure though, the difference I think I saw was barely noticable, so I'm not even sure if I really saw a difference.



So I tested out some more content and I retract part of what I said. I still don't see a difference whether the emitter is connected to the tv or the adapter. However, the dlp-link x102 glasses that I have seem to eliminate the green tint of blacks. The black levels aren't any lighter with the X102's but are no longer greenish. Unfortunately I have had sync issues with the X102's and also they bring out the vertical rainbows that have been mentioned previously. No matter what I do the green tint remains with the Mits glasses though.


----------



## jjknatl

This topic may already be in this thread or elsewhere on the forum, but thoughts on checkerboard format conversion and wobulated display of side-by-side and top-bottom.


Since a 1080p side-by-side signal is already one-half the horizontal resolution of a full HD signal but with full vertical resolution, does converting to checkerboard and displaying via horizontal wobulation (ala DLP) actually lose anything relative to display on a full HD 3D TV? I say not much, since the original frames are already half the horizontal resolution (960) and the best the full HD 3d TV can do is upscale the horizontal res (to 1920) which is a small benefit over a horizontal wobulated 960 pixel display when viewed at a normal distance. In this case, this would mean those of us with satellite or cable providers doing side by side should see a resolution in 3D that is nearly as good as full HD 3D displays.


however, for a 1080p top-bottom signal, the vertical resolution is one-half of a full HD signal but full horizontal resolution. Therefore, converting to checkerboard for display via horizontal wobulation (ala DLP) loses half the horizontal resolution. Furthermore, the vertical resolution is already only half, 540 lines per frame, so the resulting sub-frames being wobulated are only 960x540 upscaled to 960x1080 (vs 1920x540 upscaled to 1920x1080 for a full HD 3D). In that case, the full HD 3D is advantagous. But what 3D source requires top-bottom output, and so does this even matter?


Frame packing, ala blu-ray, full HD 3D has 1920x1080 native per left and right image and therefore has the advantage over the horizontal wobulated display of 960x1080 per left and right image. So, the full HD 3D is best but mainly for blu-ray 3D.


Other opinions?


----------



## Zapix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcterp* /forum/post/19015215
> 
> 
> So I tested out some more content and I retract part of what I said. I still don't see a difference whether the emitter is connected to the tv or the adapter. However, the dlp-link x102 glasses that I have seem to eliminate the green tint of blacks. The black levels aren't any lighter with the X102's but are no longer greenish. Unfortunately I have had sync issues with the X102's and also they bring out the vertical rainbows that have been mentioned previously. No matter what I do the green tint remains with the Mits glasses though.



Possible that due in part to some color blindness that I don't see the green as strongly as some people. Perhaps I should be thankful for being a little color blind for once! lol

I was playing around with some of the PS3 games in 3D earlier today and thought I noticed a random amber/reddish tinting in the blacks. Thought I originally saw it last night when I swapped the emitter plug to the TV directly then back to the adapter.


I do notice that after using 3D content for a while the black issue doesn't stand out so intensely, as long as you're not doing anything that involves alot of black. Still, I know it's not color perfect, and while that should perhaps bother me, the fact that I have working 3D that looks really good, I'm willing to overlook the downsides for now.


I would however really like a fix for the issue with the 833 not always accepting the signal from the adapter and getting a blue screen. Yeah, I can get the display to return simply by changing to another HDMI input (other inputs don't seem to work effectively) then switch back to the HDMI with 3D, but it's a little bothersome and doesn't exactly look good from a technical standpoint that I have to do that.


Short of waiting for the firmware update for the PS3 to use bluray3D, and media for it being available that doesn't involve buying a Panasonic 3DTV (or Samsung 3D kit), I'm pretty happy though.


Also, just curious, anyone else who can hear it a little bothered by the frequency that the emitter emits? I don't notice it once I turn the volume up a good bit, but otherwise it's a little annoying.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19015236
> 
> 
> Since a 1080p side-by-side signal is already one-half the horizontal resolution of a full HD signal but with full vertical resolution, does converting to checkerboard and displaying via horizontal wobulation (ala DLP) actually lose anything relative to display on a full HD 3D TV? I say not much, since the original frames are already half the horizontal resolution (960) ...



Well, yes, and no. It's kind of hard to wrap your head around at first, because we are used to thinking of pixels arranged in a square grid. These aren't: each column is offset from the previous one. The DMD is considered 960x1080, but it could just as easily be considered 1920x540. If you look at a checkerboard, and "take away" all the black squares, did you eliminate the horizontal rows or the vertical rows? The real answer is a little of both, but that's not easy to account for when trying to place a xxxx by xxxx designation to an imager.

This image helps visualize it. If you look at the grids that represent the "original stereo pair", and picture them being derived from a side by side signal, where the left (green) image only contains the even columns, and the right (red) image only contains the odd columns. If you then look at the combined green/red checkerboard image (taking out the even red squares and the odd green squares), you're actually left with an image that is lacking half of the _vertical_ resolution. And conversely, if you start off with a top/bottom image, you end up with an image that is lacking half of the _horizontal_ resolution. In both cases, if the checkerboard pattern hadn't been applied, all the columns of a side/side image (or rows in the case of top/bottom) join together to make a full image. Just like how a native checkerboard image comes together. But in all those cases, each eye sees half the pixels, so there is a resulting loss of resolution.


In actuality, when the adapter processes a SbS or T/B image, it interpolates to fill in the missing columns (or rows). So when a a SbS or T/B image is presented by a checkerboard display, each eye is missing half of the pixels, and half of those pixels that remain are interpolated pixels. When a "full HD 3d TV" does it, half of what each eye sees is interpolated, but there are no "missing" pixels (because it is displaying 1920x1080 pixels to each eye).


In other words, a wobulated display still presents half of the pixels per eye compared to a "full HD" 3d set, regardless of the input signal. Regardless of the type of display, SbS or T/B result in half of the pixels being interpolated, but in a wobulated set half of the real, and half of the interpolated pixels, are discarded. With a "full HD" signal (1080p 3d blu-ray), there are no interpolated pixels. A "full HD" display displays them all, and a wobulated set throws half of them away.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zapix* /forum/post/19015289
> 
> 
> Possible that due in part to some color blindness that I don't see the green as strongly as some people.



Hmmm, well I also have red/green color blindness (though I only notice the green part). But I still think I would notice a green tint. I still THINK that some sets produce the tint, and some don't. But you do bring up an interesting point I hadn't even thought about.


----------



## dreaux




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jheadley* /forum/post/19014857
> 
> 
> I have a 833 and I can't get a picture at all with the 3d adaptor, 2d or 3d. Not with the directv receiver or my ps3. I have the input set to game like the instructions say, but no luck at all. Just a blue screen.



Are you going direct to the TV or through a AV receiver?


----------



## walford




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19015236
> 
> 
> Since a 1080p side-by-side signal is already one-half the horizontal resolution of a full HD signal but with full vertical resolution, does converting to checkerboard and displaying via horizontal wobulation (ala DLP) actually lose anything relative to display on a full HD 3D TV? I say not much, since the original frames are already half the horizontal resolution (960) and the best the full HD 3d TV can do is upscale the horizontal res (to 1920) which is a small benefit over a horizontal wobulated 960 pixel display when viewed at a normal distance. In this case, this would mean those of us with satellite or cable providers doing side by side should see a resolution in 3D that is nearly as good as full HD 3D displays.
> 
> 
> however, for a 1080p top-bottom signal, the vertical resolution is one-half of a full HD signal but full horizontal resolution. Therefore, converting to checkerboard for display via horizontal wobulation (ala DLP) loses half the horizontal resolution. Furthermore, the vertical resolution is already only half, 540 lines per frame, so the resulting sub-frames being wobulated are only 960x540 upscaled to 960x1080 (vs 1920x540 upscaled to 1920x1080 for a full HD 3D). In that case, the full HD 3D is advantagous. But what 3D source requires top-bottom output, and so does this even matter?
> 
> 
> Frame packing, ala blu-ray, full HD 3D has 1920x1080 native per left and right image and therefore has the advantage over the horizontal wobulated display of 960x1080 per left and right image. So, the full HD 3D is best but mainly for blu-ray 3D.



When 1080i 3D SbS programs are upscale on a flat panel 3D TV 1/2 of the pixels are the original pixels and 1/2 are invented. When this image is converted by the adapter to checkerboard the checkerboard frame contains only 1/4 of the origional content and therefore the 920x1080 DLP display is 1/4 of the origional content.

AFAIK TnB 3D content is only available for 720p and not for 1080i and is currently used only by ESPN-3D for maximum frame rate and full horizontal resolution on 3D flat panels.

The adapter will convert packed frame content from BR players to Checkeboard where each frame is 1/2 of the origional resoluton.


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scubawoman* /forum/post/19014123
> 
> 
> If you are only going to use the 300 as your only 3D source then you don't need the adapter, just the emitter and the glasses. Since the 300 outputs checkerboard which the 833 will accept you can connect HDMI main to the 833 directly and then HDMI sub to the 905 like you have (that's how I have mine connected). You still have to go into the setup screen to change HDMI sub v off each time. Hopefully they'll come up with a firmware update to keep this from being necessary. You have to do this as well to watch blu-ray, not just 3D blu-ray. If you are going to use Directv or other sat/cable for 3D, or get another 3D source in the future that doesn't output checkerboard you need the adapter. I couldn't get the 350 to output to the tv when I tried to use the main HDMI through the 905 so that's why I went the route of using both HDMI on the 350. I kept getting the message there wasn't a 3D tv connected even though I set the 350 to checkerboard.



Thanks for the great explanation. I tried taking the adapter out of the equation and connecting just the emitter and it worked as far as the video is concerned. I'm too afraid of turning the HDMI v.sub off because of the last time where I ended up not having any video at all. Therefore, I'm sending the starter back back to the vendor for a refund. This is too much aggravation for 3D and IMHO not ready for prime time.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19015876
> 
> 
> When 1080i 3D SbS programs are upscale on a flat panel 3D TV 1/2 of the pixels are the original pixels and 1/2 are invented. When this image is converted by the adapter to checkerboard the checkerboard frame contains only 1/4 of the origional content and therefore the 920x1080 DLP display is 1/4 of the origional content.



I believe you are assuming that the de-interlacer is doing interpolation or line doubling of one field of an interlaced signal to produce a progressively displayed frame. That is not always the case. There are other forms of deinterlacing that combine the two fields of an interlaced signal into a progressively displayed frame. In that case, the amount of "inventing" varies from none at all to something less than 100%. A balance is struck by the deinterlacing algorithm between a temporal shift of content from one line to the next versus a loss of vertical resolution. No temporal shift = half vertical resolution while full temporal shift = full vertical resolution.


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19015236
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Frame packing, ala blu-ray, full HD 3D has 1920x1080 native per left and right image and therefore has the advantage over the horizontal wobulated display of 960x1080 per left and right image. So, the full HD 3D is best but mainly for blu-ray 3D.
> 
> 
> Other opinions?



Do you like to read about 3-D; or do you prefer to watch 3-D? if you want to read about 3-D, Darin is your best source. However, those who have actually compared current Mitsubishi DLP's with flat-panel 3-D displays have uniformly reported the Mitsubishi to be superior. Some have reported the surprise of salesman when they actually compared the same source material. One reported of the store owner moving the Mitsubishi next to a plasma so that they could closely compare -- and the result again was a superiority of the Mitsubishi. If it were just me, you could chalk it up to the chauvinism of an interested party; but as I said, it has been uniform, if not unanimous. I compared closely on what is the best 3-D demo: the IMAX Grand Canyon, against the Panasonic display at Best Buy. Now, I must admit that I found the Panasonic glasses to be uncomfortable and to produce a noticeable flickering. Absent that, I could say that the two sets were quite comparable. But I "focused" on the fine detail -- and I could see no difference -- at 6 feet from the Panasonic and 6 1/2 feet from my 65 inch Mitsubishi. Factor in the fact that 99% of viewers will watch at greater distances, and the alleged superiority of plasma on fine detail is horse feathers.


----------



## jheadley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dreaux* /forum/post/19015822
> 
> 
> Are you going direct to the TV or through a AV receiver?



I tried both. Neither works.


----------



## walford




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19016124
> 
> 
> I believe you are assuming that the de-interlacer is doing interpolation or line doubling of one field of an interlaced signal to produce a progressively displayed frame. That is not always the case. There are other forms of deinterlacing that combine the two fields of an interlaced signal into a progressively displayed frame. In that case, the amount of "inventing" varies from none at all to something less than 100%. A balance is struck by the deinterlacing algorithm between a temporal shift of content from one line to the next versus a loss of vertical resolution. No temporal shift = half vertical resolution while full temporal shift = full vertical resolution.



It is not the de-interlacing I am concerne about. 1080i SbS contains 2 960x1080 shrunk images side-by- side that is why it only contains 1/2 of the origional resolution so each sub-frame has to be expaned/upscaled to 1080px1080 so that they can be converted to Checkerboard.


----------



## bubba1972

Thanks for the Buy.com heads up. Got one ordered yesterday before the price jumped back up to $399.


----------



## Av8tr

I just picked up a PS3 and am hoping to send the Panny 350 back to offset the cost. Any reason I can't use the adapter to watch 3d with the ps3 now that it has the 3d update? Am I missing anything?


----------



## jheadley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Av8tr* /forum/post/19016757
> 
> 
> I just picked up a PS3 and am hoping to send the Panny 350 back to offset the cost. Any reason I can't use the adapter to watch 3d with the ps3 now that it has the 3d update? Am I missing anything?



I believe the ps3 currently only supports 3d games. Blu ray 3d is coming in a firmware update sometime in September I believe.


----------



## Zapix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jheadley* /forum/post/19016766
> 
> 
> I believe the ps3 currently only supports 3d games. Blu ray 3d is coming in a firmware update sometime in September I believe.



That is indeed correct. Sony has not dated the firmware other than "September" which is typical of Sony. They don't talk much about firmware updates either until about 12~24 hours from it's release if they even say anything at all. My personal guess is we will see it by Sept 13th. I would like to hope for sooner, but it doesn't really matter as the amount of blu ray 3D movies available is... Well... Not even worth mentioning. Really sad considering the potential for stereo 3D releases is pretty decent, although the majority of them are worthless imo. Even more pathetic that Comcast (I can't speak for other cable/sat providers) doesn't even seem to offer 3D movie rentals which would make sense to do. Hopefully Sony with their BD update will make 3D rentals available on the PS3. It only makes sense to do everything 


But yeah, the PS3 [it] only does 3D gaming (*slap* take that Kevin Butler! It doesn't do everything!) right now, with a limited selection of demos (and 3 full games) to choose from.


----------



## hoddy4

Does anyone have any direct experience with the 73C9 and the adapter? Are you experiencing the greenish/black problems and or the darkness with 3D sources?


----------



## ajricaud




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jheadley* /forum/post/19016146
> 
> 
> I tried both. Neither works.



Have you tried different inputs?


----------



## Scubawoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/19016003
> 
> 
> Thanks for the great explanation. I tried taking the adapter out of the equation and connecting just the emitter and it worked as far as the video is concerned. I'm too afraid of turning the HDMI v.sub off because of the last time where I ended up not having any video at all. Therefore, I'm sending the starter back back to the vendor for a refund. This is too much aggravation for 3D and IMHO not ready for prime time.



I feel for you as I would be going nuts if I couldn't get it to work. I'm sure it's something that can be remedied to get you to see 3D, it really is worth it. I discovered today if you have any 3D files that you play on the 350 that are side by side you need to connect the 350 to the adapter.


Check the Mitsubishi manual to see if it makes a difference which HDMI input you use on the 833. (I used to have the 833 but can't recall if they are slightly different)


----------



## MrVizio

So, this may be old news, and I've only read through this thread a little bit, but I was told that the Mits DLPs with the 3D adapter only worked with Panny Blu-ray players. Is this true? Because today I was in Ultimate Electronics and they had the Mits hooked up to a Sammy Blu-ray player and it was displaying 3D wonderfully. I know Mits has a firmware update that will allow you to use it with any 3D player, but I didn't think it was released yet. Any thoughts.


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MrVizio* /forum/post/19019274
> 
> 
> So, this may be old news, and I've only read through this thread a little bit, but I was told that the Mits DLPs with the 3D adapter only worked with Panny Blu-ray players. Is this true? Because today I was in Ultimate Electronics and they had the Mits hooked up to a Sammy Blu-ray player and it was displaying 3D wonderfully. I know Mits has a firmware update that will allow you to use it with any 3D player, but I didn't think it was released yet. Any thoughts.



What you were told is a little misleading.


Pre 2010 model Mitsu DLPs will work with any device that outputs 3D using the checkerboard signal, and only checkerboard. The Panny BD players do that - so no adapter needed if that will be your only 3D source.


The Mitsu adapter also outputs checkerboard, and accepts any other type of 3D format and converts it to checkerboard. So, with the adapter, any source will work. You'll need the adapter for your Sat or cable box, PS3 etc. for a pre 2010 model because they (for the most part) do not output checkerboard.


2010 Mitsu DLPs may accept more than just checkerboard signals, so check the specs on the particular model number in that case (likely why you saw a recent demo using a Sammy BD player with no adapter).


----------



## MrVizio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmalter0* /forum/post/19016144
> 
> 
> Do you like to read about 3-D; or do you prefer to watch 3-D? if you want to read about 3-D, Darin is your best source. However, those who have actually compared current Mitsubishi DLP's with flat-panel 3-D displays have uniformly reported the Mitsubishi to be superior. Some have reported the surprise of salesman when they actually compared the same source material. One reported of the store owner moving the Mitsubishi next to a plasma so that they could closely compare -- and the result again was a superiority of the Mitsubishi. If it were just me, you could chalk it up to the chauvinism of an interested party; but as I said, it has been uniform, if not unanimous. I compared closely on what is the best 3-D demo: the IMAX Grand Canyon, against the Panasonic display at Best Buy. Now, I must admit that I found the Panasonic glasses to be uncomfortable and to produce a noticeable flickering. Absent that, I could say that the two sets were quite comparable. But I "focused" on the fine detail -- and I could see no difference -- at 6 feet from the Panasonic and 6 1/2 feet from my 65 inch Mitsubishi. Factor in the fact that 99% of viewers will watch at greater distances, and the alleged superiority of plasma on fine detail is horse feathers.



I completely agree. I wasn't sure about getting my WD-65738, until I saw it's 3D. When I watched the Panny in 3D it was pretty good. But on the DLP it was just way better. It had that Imax cinema feel to it. To me, the Mits had that real 3D depth look, but the Pannys had an almost artificial, gimmicky look. Still cool. I know the Mits gets a bit dimmer in 3D mode, but watching it in a light-controlled environment is awesome. Maybe its just the bigger screen, lol, what the hell do I know.


----------



## walford

Currently the only HDMI 1.4a formats that a xx738 or xx838 TV will accept are 1080i SbS and 720p SpS (which is not a manatory 1.4a format). Otherwise 3D content to a xx738 or xx838 model must be in 1080p Checkerboard or in 720p format from a PC running Nvdia 3D player or equivalent.

Intereesting that the DLP looked better then the Panny since the DLP only displays 3D at 960x1080/60 per eye and the Panny displays 3D BR content at 1080p/60 per eye


----------



## MrVizio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Athlon646464* /forum/post/19019300
> 
> 
> What you were told is a little misleading.
> 
> 
> Pre 2010 model Mitsu DLPs will work with any device that outputs 3D using the checkerboard signal, and only checkerboard. The Panny BD players do that - so no adapter needed if that will be your only 3D source.
> 
> 
> The Mitsu adapter also outputs checkerboard, and accepts any other type of 3D format and converts it to checkerboard. So, with the adapter, any source will work. You'll need the adapter for your Sat or cable box, PS3 etc. for a pre 2010 model because they (for the most part) do not output checkerboard.
> 
> 
> 2010 Mitsu DLPs may accept more than just checkerboard signals, so check the specs on the particular model number in that case (likely why you saw a recent demo using a Sammy BD player with no adapter).



Thanks. That was informative. But you're not saying that you can just plug in any 'checkerboard' Blu-ray player into a Mitsu, without an adapter between the two, and view 3D content? I'm confused, lol.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MrVizio* /forum/post/19019366
> 
> 
> But you're not saying that you can just plug in any 'checkerboard' Blu-ray player into a Mitsu, without an adapter between the two, and view 3D content?



Yes, you could, although I'm not sure if anyone besides Panasonic is making a commercial blu-ray player with checkerboard output. Though you can also play 3d blu-ray on a PC with software that outputs checkerboard.


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scubawoman* /forum/post/19018283
> 
> 
> I feel for you as I would be going nuts if I couldn't get it to work. I'm sure it's something that can be remedied to get you to see 3D, it really is worth it. I discovered today if you have any 3D files that you play on the 350 that are side by side you need to connect the 350 to the adapter.
> 
> 
> Check the Mitsubishi manual to see if it makes a difference which HDMI input you use on the 833. (I used to have the 833 but can't recall if they are slightly different)



I keep changing my mind everyday.







I'm now thinking of getting a Denon 2311CI receiver which is 1.4 and passes 3D. This may make the difference on the audio. Now just trying to get one for a good price. It will be lots less than I paid for my Onkyo 905 which I paid a premium for because it was the first to play the HD audio codecs (Dolby TrueHD and DTS HD Master).


----------



## MrVizio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/19019516
> 
> 
> Yes, you could, although I'm not sure if anyone besides Panasonic is making a commercial blu-ray player with checkerboard output. Though you can also play 3d blu-ray on a PC with software that outputs checkerboard.



Well, what is this software that does checkerboard?


And, if a blu-ray outputs checkerboard, like Panny, then your good without the adapter, but if it's another brand, you need the adapter? Also, I'm confused, with the 3D starter pack, is that little black box I have an adapter, or some sort of 3D receiver -- a receptor for the shutter glasses? Help?


----------



## jheadley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajricaud* /forum/post/19017658
> 
> 
> Have you tried different inputs?



Tried that too. Going to call Mits.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MrVizio* /forum/post/19019602
> 
> 
> Well, what is this software that does checkerboard?



PowerDVD10 Mark II, or TMT3 with the 3d plugin.


[/quote]And, if a blu-ray outputs checkerboard, like Panny, then your good without the adapter, but if it's another brand, you need the adapter? Also, I'm confused, with the 3D starter pack, is that little black box I have an adapter, or some sort of 3D receiver -- a receptor for the shutter glasses? Help?[/quote]

Well, it's not the brand that matters, it's whether or not it outputs checkerboard that's important. It's just that I don't know of any brands other than Panasonic that offer it. The "little black box" is the IR emitter that sends the signal to the glasses so they can sync with the video.


----------



## john stephens

MrVizio, Yes the Mits adapter box serves to convert any mode of 3D to the checkerboard pattern that the TV needs. The virtue of the Panasonic player is that it can put out the checkerboard pattern directly; and therefore does not need the adapter for 3D display> It does need an emitter, though, which to date can only be obtained by buying the adapter. And yes, I have successfully used a Samsung 6900 with my Mits DLP(through the adapter).


----------



## PaulGo

Some glass do not need an emitter (DLP link) the X102 do not need an emitter. Also Mits sells the emitter separately (less the $50).


----------



## morganplus4

Hi John,


Can you tell me if it has been proven that the Real3D ($ 289.00) kit that allows Samsung DLPs and C6900 BD players to work together in checkerboard, also works for 3D TV from HD service providers? I want to get my 3D C6900 Samsung to work with my HL-T5687SA Samsung 3D ready TV. I take it that this kit is the only solution to accomplish that (is it proven to work?) but I would also like to have Rogers 3D channels working with this TV as well. Would buying this kit solve all of these issues? Has anyone tried the kit on this older model of Samsung TV?


Thanks.


----------



## dreaux

Mitsubishi is saying if you have the 2010 models xx838 and xx738, a firmware update will be available in a couple of months, so that a starter kit is not necessary, you will need just the glasses.

The 2010 models say 3D not 3D ready. If you don't want to wait for the firmware update then the starter kits is needed for a 2010 model.

Not sure yet were to get the update but it would be put on a USB thumb drive and then loaded into the set.


----------



## MrSniffer

I spent several good hours trying to get the Mits 3D Starter Kit to work with my AVR...the Onkyo HT-RC180/TX-NR807 and my Mits Laservue L65-A90. No joy, and I've returned the starter kit to the vendor.


I first direct connected my PS3 to the kit and thence to the Laservue, and was able to see and play my 3D games.....but with no audio. I require that audio go through my AVR....to my 7.1 speaker system when playing Blu-ray and hidef audio content, or when playing back DVR'd TV (in 5.1) from my Comcast STB.


The Onkyo receiver is spec'd w HDMI 1.3, and it seems to be VERY unhappy when it gets inputs in 3D format from the PS3 and stops passing video through. The Comcast box got REALLY upset when connected to the kit; it decided that HDMI content protection was bypassed and decided to cut off digital video feeds on the HDMI cable (which is the only source I have wired in....). (I had to swap out my "old" Comcast box and install the Moto DCX3400 in order to receive 3DTV, another speed bump on the way.)


I was prepared to spend $400 to view 3D with my Mits "3D Ready" TV, but I not prepared to spend another $600, for a total of $1,000 to replace my AVR as well. I'll return to this exercise in a few years, when I next swap out my receiver but not before.


I feel totally cheated by Mits over this one. Their "solution" is quite flawed and problematic and IMHO totally misses the reality of audiophiles using AVRs rather than directly connecting to the TV. And folks who direct connect will have to purchase one kit for EACH input, not one per set. Having no IR input (or automatic detection) to switch to "3D Mode" is another example of their half-assed attempt at supporting 3D on DLPs.


----------



## Av8tr

Not true at all. I have the Panny BD, but I'm sending it back to use the Ps3 instead; although I have to wait for the update in September.


It also works great on D*tv, but the adapter is necessary.


----------



## dreaux




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MrSniffer* /forum/post/19020109
> 
> 
> I spent several good hours trying to get the Mits 3D Starter Kit to work with my AVR...the Onkyo HT-RC180/TX-NR807 and my Mits Laservue L65-A90. No joy, and I've returned the starter kit to the vendor.
> 
> 
> I first direct connected my PS3 to the kit and thence to the Laservue, and was able to see and play my 3D games.....but with no audio. I require that audio go through my AVR....to my 7.1 speaker system when playing Blu-ray and hidef audio content, or when playing back DVR'd TV (in 5.1) from my Comcast STB.
> 
> I would imagine the starter kits will come down in the near future as well.
> 
> You are smart to wait....
> 
> I hear the LaserVue offers a very nice picture.
> 
> 
> The Onkyo receiver is spec'd w HDMI 1.3, and it seems to be VERY unhappy when it gets inputs in 3D format from the PS3 and stops passing video through. The Comcast box got REALLY upset when connected to the kit; it decided that HDMI content protection was bypassed and decided to cut off digital video feeds on the HDMI cable (which is the only source I have wired in....). (I had to swap out my "old" Comcast box and install the Moto DCX3400 in order to receive 3DTV, another speed bump on the way.)
> 
> 
> I was prepared to spend $400 to view 3D with my Mits "3D Ready" TV, but I not prepared to spend another $600, for a total of $1,000 to replace my AVR as well. I'll return to this exercise in a few years, when I next swap out my receiver but not before.
> 
> 
> I feel totally cheated by Mits over this one. Their "solution" is quite flawed and problematic and IMHO totally misses the reality of audiophiles using AVRs rather than directly connecting to the TV. And folks who direct connect will have to purchase one kit for EACH input, not one per set. Having no IR input (or automatic detection) to switch to "3D Mode" is another example of their half-assed attempt at supporting 3D on DLPs.



Yup...you pretty much need a 3D 1.4 AV receiver to get it to work, unless you go direct but then you have your audio problem.

I sold my 1.3 AV receiver on Ebay and then bought a 3D ready receiver for around $450.

Does Comcast even offer any 3D content? With D* we are getting some 3D programs....and some 3D football next month.

Once I got the 3D ready receiver everything worked fine.

You are smart to wait...prices will come down on all this stuff in the near future.


----------



## john stephens

Mr Sniffer, A bit of logic is required in this. It's not Mitsubishi's fault that your AVR is not 3D ready. It's the source that insists on seeing a valid 3D EDID device. Not the sink. In your case, you are trying to connect your source through a legacy AVR. Upgrade or accept TV sound.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *john stephens* /forum/post/19020446
> 
> 
> It's the source that insists on seeing a valid 3D EDID device. Not the sink. In your case, you are trying to connect your source through a legacy AVR. Upgrade or accept TV sound.



Not entirely. There are some sources that require seeing a valid 3D EDID (well, at least one that I know of: DirecTV receivers). But the 3d adapter also requires seeing the EDID of the Mits TV. If this wasn't the case, then the adapter could be placed upstream of the AVR, and the 1.3 issue would go away.


So this mess is just as much Mitsubishi's fault as it is of those manufacturers who won't allow an override to pass a 3d signal w/o a 3d EDID. There should be two configuration options, but there are 0.


----------



## Impala1ss




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MrSniffer* /forum/post/19020109
> 
> 
> I spent several good hours trying to get the Mits 3D Starter Kit to work with my AVR...the Onkyo HT-RC180/TX-NR807 and my Mits Laservue L65-A90. No joy, and I've returned the starter kit to the vendor.
> 
> 
> I first direct connected my PS3 to the kit and thence to the Laservue, and was able to see and play my 3D games.....but with no audio. I require that audio go through my AVR....to my 7.1 speaker system when playing Blu-ray and hidef audio content, or when playing back DVR'd TV (in 5.1) from my Comcast STB.
> 
> 
> The Onkyo receiver is spec'd w HDMI 1.3, and it seems to be VERY unhappy when it gets inputs in 3D format from the PS3 and stops passing video through. The Comcast box got REALLY upset when connected to the kit; it decided that HDMI content protection was bypassed and decided to cut off digital video feeds on the HDMI cable (which is the only source I have wired in....). (I had to swap out my "old" Comcast box and install the Moto DCX3400 in order to receive 3DTV, another speed bump on the way.)
> 
> 
> I was prepared to spend $400 to view 3D with my Mits "3D Ready" TV, but I not prepared to spend another $600, for a total of $1,000 to replace my AVR as well. I'll return to this exercise in a few years, when I next swap out my receiver but not before.
> 
> 
> I feel totally cheated by Mits over this one. Their "solution" is quite flawed and problematic and IMHO totally misses the reality of audiophiles using AVRs rather than directly connecting to the TV. And folks who direct connect will have to purchase one kit for EACH input, not one per set. Having no IR input (or automatic detection) to switch to "3D Mode" is another example of their half-assed attempt at supporting 3D on DLPs.



WHy not just run your audio to the AVR via optical cable from Directv or whatever your "box" is?


----------



## Mounta1n




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Impala1ss* /forum/post/19020946
> 
> 
> WHy not just run your audio to the AVR via optical cable from Directv or whatever your "box" is?



Because then you lose the lossless audio formats, ie. Dolby TrueHD, and DTS-MasterHD, which are one of the chief benefits of Blu-Ray.


MrSniffer, did you have the output of the HT-RC180 set to Passthrough? I ask because I have the same receiver and I am interested in trying to get this to work with a PS3. Thanks.


----------



## mikeyari




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulGo* /forum/post/19019813
> 
> 
> Some glass do not need an emitter (DLP link) the X102 do not need an emitter. Also Mits sells the emitter separately (less the $50).



How do you obtain the Mits emitter? I`ve tried the parts online option which always says it`s not available?


I also hear people say that it`s not available by phone?


Is there some special process we need to follow to get the emitter?


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mikeyari* /forum/post/19021450
> 
> 
> How do you obtain the Mits emitter? I`ve tried the parts online option which always says it`s not available?
> 
> 
> I also hear people say that it`s not available by phone?
> 
> 
> Is there some special process we need to follow to get the emitter?



I ordered it during the 12hr period when you could get it online, but my understand has been that you could order it by phone even though they took it offline. But let me know if you have a problem, as I'm going to end up having two when my full kit gets here.


----------



## tfried

Glad some of you guys were able to order before the price jumped. My starter kit is scheduled to be delivered this Friday


----------



## john stephens




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/19020494
> 
> 
> Not entirely. There are some sources that require seeing a valid 3D EDID (well, at least one that I know of: DirecTV receivers). But the 3d adapter also requires seeing the EDID of the Mits TV. If this wasn't the case, then the adapter could be placed upstream of the AVR, and the 1.3 issue would go away.
> 
> 
> So this mess is just as much Mitsubishi's fault as it is of those manufacturers who won't allow an override to pass a 3d signal w/o a 3d EDID. There should be two configuration options, but there are 0.



Darin,


Mr Sniffer has a Laservue TV, same as mine. He is not encumbered by the snafu that you have been struggling with. I am aware of your frustrations. But even for you, don't you think Samsung has a responsibility to offer a 3D kit to its legacy users. After all, you bought your TV from Samsung. Not Mitsubishi.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *john stephens* /forum/post/19021672
> 
> 
> After all, you bought your TV from Samsung. Not Mitsubishi.



No, I have a Mitsubishi TV (though I do agree that Samsung should have supported their customers like Mitsubishi did). I'm not sure I follow why my comments don't apply to his situation.


----------



## MrSniffer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mounta1n* /forum/post/19021089
> 
> 
> 
> MrSniffer, did you have the output of the HT-RC180 set to Passthrough? I ask because I have the same receiver and I am interested in trying to get this to work with a PS3. Thanks.



I have Monitor Out set to HDMI, and my input signals are solely HDMI. It doesn't appear to do any up- or down-conversions. But I don't think I actually set the "skip" setting on (doh!) which is probably a good thing to do. Too late for me to try; let me know how it goes for you!


[EDITED NOTE: I have had the video conversion mode set to "Through", so no rescaling is to be done. I was confused by a note in the manual which applied only to the TX-NR807 about using VCR/RETURN to disable the video conversion for THX. That note doesn't apply to the HT-RC180 model]


----------



## TViewer2000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dreaux* /forum/post/19019926
> 
> 
> Mitsubishi is saying if you have the 2010 models xx838 and xx738, a firmware update will be available in a couple of months, so that a starter kit is not necessary, you will need just the glasses.
> 
> The 2010 models say 3D not 3D ready. If you don't want to wait for the firmware update then the starter kits is needed for a 2010 model.
> 
> Not sure yet were to get the update but it would be put on a USB thumb drive and then loaded into the set.




I thought you would need glasses AND an emitter. Currently there isn't a starter pack that includes glasses and emitter but not adapter. I'm all for just buying glasses but I don't think this will happen. Yes I know you can buy DLP-link glasses but I don't want to go down that road.


----------



## john stephens




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/19021767
> 
> 
> No, I have a Mitsubishi TV (though I do agree that Samsung should have supported their customers like Mitsubishi did). I'm not sure I follow why my comments don't apply to his situation.



Then I'm puzzled by your perception of a problem with the adapter. I think of the adapter as though it were a plug in Module that converts the TV into a 3D TV. As such it's equivalent to what is inside my Samsung C8000 LED TV. That circuitry has only one task and that's to convert formats and sync the built in emitter. To me the Mits adapter is on an identical footing. It's not meant to be some sort of universal gadget that enables all variations of hook ups. As far as I know, you can't drive a 3D signal through a legacy amp into my Samsung. If I want that feature, I am forced to upgrade my AVR. I simply fail to see a defference here.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *john stephens* /forum/post/19023568
> 
> 
> As far as I know, you can't drive a 3D signal through a legacy amp into my Samsung. If I want that feature, I am forced to upgrade my AVR. I simply fail to see a defference here.



Well, that's the crux of it: technically, you _can_ send a 3D signal through a legacy amp (at least for checkerboard, SbS, and T/B). There is nothing standing in the way of it beyond the authentication choices made by some component manufacturers. The Mitsubishi adapter outputs a standard 1080p signal that would have no trouble being passed through a legacy HDMI 1.3 device *IF* Mitsubishi hadn't chosen to check the EDID of the connected downstream device to ensure that it's a Mits TV. Similarly, the 3d formats used by DirecTV _could_ pass just fine through a legacy device, if their receiver didn't first check to see if it was directly connected to a known 3d device. There are components that either don't do these checks, or provide a workaround, and they work fine going through legacy equipment.


It would cost me $1500+ to upgrade to a new receiver comparable to the one I already have that otherwise doesn't do anything additional for me other than being 1.4. And as some users are finding out, there's still no guarantee that it will work (some 1.4 receives return their own EDID info, and don't pass the checks that DirecTV does). If there was some technical reason that the signal couldn't pass through the receiver, that would be one thing. But being forced to no longer use my perfectly good AVR simply because they chose to limit what components they will pass a signal to is infuriating.


----------



## dreaux




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TViewer2000* /forum/post/19023557
> 
> 
> I thought you would need glasses AND an emitter. Currently there isn't a starter pack that includes glasses and emitter but not adapter. I'm all for just buying glasses but I don't think this will happen. Yes I know you can buy DLP-link glasses but I don't want to go down that road.



That's what they said but what you say makes sense. I will call them again to make sure.


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TViewer2000* /forum/post/19023557
> 
> 
> I thought you would need glasses AND an emitter. Currently there isn't a starter pack that includes glasses and emitter but not adapter. I'm all for just buying glasses but I don't think this will happen. Yes I know you can buy DLP-link glasses but I don't want to go down that road.



The X102s lose synch if you sit closer than 10'; but if you don't, they are a lot sturdier than the Mits/Sammy glasses.


----------



## john stephens

Darin, I share your concern on this, as I am in a similar position. Still, I think you are directing your frustrations towards the wrong entity. Your concerns should be directed towards the front end devices. It appears to me that the Blu-Ray Consortium did not do Mits any favors. After all Mitsubishi was first out of the block with DLP based TVs that were 3d Ready. The standards could have been written such that all sources were required to offer Checkerboard outputs(as one example). Had this been done, there would be no adapter all. Rather, a mere emitter would have been offered for sale by Mitsubishi. Still you'd have the same problem as before, of requiring a 3d capable AVR. I struggle through problems of various sorts like everyone else. I just believe that we should try to focus our complaints more precisely where they belong. I've had to spend quite a bit of money so far:


2 new Blu-Ray players, A Samsung 6900 and a Panasonic 350

A Samsung C8000 series 46" LED TV

Mitsubishi 3DC-1000 adapter

Monoprice 4 by 2 Switch/Splitter


And still I don't have every detail quite dialed in. I think that's part of the price we pay for being early adoptors.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *john stephens* /forum/post/19024105
> 
> 
> I think you are directing your frustrations towards the wrong entity. Your concerns should be directed towards the front end devices.



The only front-end device that I know has an issue is DirecTV receivers. And trust me, I'm voicing my frustrations with them as well.










> Quote:
> It appears to me that the Blu-Ray Consortium did not do Mits any favors. After all Mitsubishi was first out of the block with DLP based TVs that were 3d Ready. The standards could have been written such that all sources were required to offer Checkerboard outputs(as one example).



Agreed. The 3d rollout has been a fiasco on several levels.


> Quote:
> Still you'd have the same problem as before, of requiring a 3d capable AVR.



But again, this _shouldn't_ be the case. There's no reason why 3d can't be passed through a 1.3 AVR, with the possible exception of 1080p frame packed. The originator of this issue is the HDMI organization. Fortunately, many/most manufacturers of source devices recognize the issue, and allow workarounds. It's those that don't that need to be made aware of the implications of their implementation. But as I said, Mitsubishi has also inconvenienced their own customers in their attempt to lock out Samsung's customers. If they didn't require recognition of an EDID from a Mits TV, we could place the adapters upstream of the AVR, essentially providing a workaround to the DirecTV issue. And DirecTV should require direct connection to the 3d device, the adapter could be placed downstream of the AVR. As I said earlier, we should have two configuration options, and instead we have 0 (or, at least no options that don't require purchasing additional equipment to trick those components into working as they should on their own). I hold them each responsible for their individual mistakes. As I said before, HDMI is the root of the issue, but we aren't direct customers of theirs. HDMI caused headaches before 3d, and will probably continue to provide more in the future. But our best hope in the near term is counting on manufacturers that use HDMI to provide workarounds for the issues it causes.


> Quote:
> I think that's part of the price we pay for being early adaptors.



Or worse: being an early adopter of an early adapter.


----------



## tlogan6797

Ok, got my starter kit last Friday. Ordered from Vann's last Tuesday and since they were already charging $10 to ship, I paid antoher $10 for three day. Wanted to catch the ESPN3D broadcast Friday night.


I have a Mits '09 65737 and Comcast. In anticipation, last week I went to the local Comcast office and picked up an HD box with HDMI output. While at the office I asked to have the 3D code added for it. I already had the code added to my other box (HD-DVR), although it is NOT a 3D TV. Just wanted to be able to switch boxes if necessary in the future.


So my new box doesn't get the ESPN3D channel. I try VOD to get the taped World Cupp games. My box doesn't get VOD either. I go through Comcast online chat. By just after 9:30, basically they send the reset signal, tell me to reboot the box then to wait 30-45 minutes. Which, of course, puts me after 10 when ESPN3D goes off air.


[short rant]

The last thing the on-line chat rep wants to do is "confirm that we've fixed your problem." I reply that I won't know that for at least 30-45 minutes. Their next reply is to re-send the same message. So I give up.

[end short rant]


So now I CALL Customer Service. Go through my complaint again. Turns out, I get a VERY nice CS Rep. She runs down the list of 3D requrements....yes I have a 3D TV, Yes I have the kit, yes, yes ,yes. Then she says, "OK we're going to fix this...This is my first time setting up 3D." I think, oh joy. BUT she looked up everything and did everything step by step and, BAM! I get 3D. Then she fixes up the VOD in like 10 seconds. She says, "I do VOD 3-4 times day. This was the frist time I did 3D."


So, one more "3D trained" Comcast CS Rep. At minimum, Comcast Reps DO have the info they need to set up 3D, IF they take the time to look it up. Interesting to note that when she looked up my account she said, "oh, you're a special project....triple play and 3D."


UPSHOT...I watched about 20 minutes of the World Cup game and thought it looked fantastic. I did NOT notice any particularly bad amount of dimming. NO flicker whatsoever, and no ghosting.


I set up just as the instructions say....source to converter, converter to emiter port on TV, emiter out from converter. I also ran optical out from cable box to Denon 3806.The only thing I notice is that the channels take longer to change and I have to manually turn 3D on and off through the TV menu. I'll investigate creating a "Watch 3D" macro for my Harmony 700.


Looking forward to Comcast broadcast of PGA next weekend! Holding off on 3D BR until more content available....hopefully in time for Christmas.


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tlogan6797* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Looking forward to Comcast broadcast of PGA next weekend!



Where are you finding a schedule for that?


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/19024357
> 
> 
> Where are you finding a schedule for that?



Looks like only Thrusday and Friday will have 3D coverage, see http://www.bunkershot.com/index.php?...tml&Itemid=161 . Even then it's only the 12th and 17th holes.


----------



## dreaux




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/19024357
> 
> 
> Where are you finding a schedule for that?



Thursday and Friday...n3D. 3pm. On my D* I think its channel 103.


----------



## Cleverland

Question on the new 2010 xx838 series Mitsubishi DLPs. I noticed that the Mits web site no longer mentions a software update to make them fully 3D capable. The 3D info page and specification fine print now mentions that they come fully equipped for SbS 3D format but will require an adaptor for other formats. I thought it used to say that a planned firmware revision would allow them to handle all 3D formats.....


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tlogan6797* /forum/post/19024224
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I CALL Customer Service. Go through my complaint again. Turns out, I get a VERY nice CS Rep. She runs down the list of 3D requrements....yes I have a 3D TV, Yes I have the kit, yes, yes ,yes. Then she says, "OK we're going to fix this...This is my first time setting up 3D." I think, oh joy. BUT she looked up everything and did everything step by step and, BAM! I get 3D. Then she fixes up the VOD in like 10 seconds. She says, "I do VOD 3-4 times day. This was the frist time I did 3D."



Does comcast have 3D VOD?


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/19024454
> 
> 
> Question on the new 2010 xx838 series Mitsubishi DLPs. I noticed that the Mits web site no longer mentions a software update to make them fully 3D capable. The 3D info page and specification fine print now mentions that they come fully equipped for SbS 3D format but will require an adaptor for other formats. I thought it used to say that a planned firmware revision would allow them to handle all 3D formats.....



It does appear that they've backed off the firmware full 3D.


----------



## hoddy4

Is there any real difference in the quality of the 3D picture if you use glasses that require the emitter or glasses that don't but use the 3D link? I'm trying to decide what kind of glasses to get for my 73C9.


----------



## tlogan6797




> Quote:
> Does comcast have 3D VOD?



Currently there are 3 World Cup games available for free (at least here in Northern VA).



> Quote:
> Looks like only Thrusday and Friday will have 3D coverage, see http://www.bunkershot.com/index.php?...tml&Itemid=161 . Even then it's only the 12th and 17th holes.



DANG! Comcast guide shows 12 hours of coverage on those days.


----------



## mhetman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmalter0* /forum/post/19023743
> 
> 
> The X102s lose synch if you sit closer than 10'; but if you don't, they are a lot sturdier than the Mits/Sammy glasses.



Not true for me....I normally sit about 10 feet away from my Samsung DLP. I tried sitting as close as 3 feet and the X102's did not lose any sync whats so ever. I am not sure why anyone else is having this problem but it simply does not occur with either pair of my X102's.


----------



## Spektre99

Been reading through this thread and was wondering if these glasses/emitter has been brought up yet? Seems to me you could get this with just the adapter yes?

http://www.i-glassesstore.com/dlp3d-wireless-2set.html 


Spektre


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spektre99* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Been reading through this thread and was wondering if these glasses/emitter has been brought up yet? Seems to me you could get this with just the adapter yes?
> 
> http://www.i-glassesstore.com/dlp3d-wireless-2set.html
> 
> 
> Spektre



Yes, and they have been tried and mentioned in another thread. I would like to see a review from someone who has used them. The other person only said he has them, and then claimed the glasses don't need batteries,which is obviously false.


----------



## GreggyJ

Just wanted to say thanks to whoever posted the info about buy.com having the starter kit for $250 a few days back.


----------



## buzzard767




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/19024454
> 
> 
> Question on the new 2010 xx838 series Mitsubishi DLPs. I noticed that the Mits web site no longer mentions a software update to make them fully 3D capable. The 3D info page and specification fine print now mentions that they come fully equipped for SbS 3D format but will require an adaptor for other formats. I thought it used to say that a planned firmware revision would allow them to handle all 3D formats.....



This?


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buzzard767* /forum/post/19027889
> 
> 
> This?



I think that's out of date. If you check Mits website they no longer say that there will be a firmware update, but instead say the adapter is needed.


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *buzzard767* /forum/post/19027889
> 
> 
> This?



Yes that is what I remember reading but the 3D Info pages have been updated to eliminate the mention of a future firmware update. So it looks like these TVs will be limited to only SbS, which will work fine for DirectTV but if you want to add a Blu-ray player you will require the Mits adaptor. I do believe an emmitter is included with the TV purchase though but not sure about glasses...Here is a quote from the Mits TV site:


'Mitsubishi 3DTVs (738 and 838 series) currently support the side-by-side 3D signal format. For support of other 3D formats, such as top-bottom and frame packing (3D Blu Ray standard), Mitsubishi 3DTVs will require the use of a 3D source device that outputs the 3D checkerboard format or a 3D source device coupled with the Mitsubishi 3D adapter. In all cases an emitter and matching 3D active shutter glasses or DLP Link active shutter glasses are required in order to view 3D content. Please refer to our web site www.mitsubsihi-tv.com for the most current information. '



I consider this to be a major step back for Mitsubishi DLPs and if this is really the case then I think they should at least provide a free adaptor to customers who were promised a firmware upgrade.....


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/19028424
> 
> 
> 'Mitsubishi 3DTVs (738 and 838 series) currently support the side-by-side 3D signal format. For support of other 3D formats, such as top-bottom and frame packing (3D Blu Ray standard), Mitsubishi 3DTVs will require the use of a 3D source device that outputs the 3D checkerboard format or a 3D source device coupled with the Mitsubishi 3D adapter. In all cases an emitter and matching 3D active shutter glasses or DLP Link active shutter glasses are required in order to view 3D content. Please refer to our web site www.mitsubsihi-tv.com for the most current information. '



My understanding is that SBS and CB was all they planed on the TV supporting.


----------



## john stephens




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenisG* /forum/post/19028683
> 
> 
> My understanding is that SBS and CB was all they planed on the TV supporting.



Yes, and this would seem to be sufficient, provided one uses the Panasonic 300 or 350 Blu-Ray players with their checkerboard output capability. This, together with D* would provide excellent 3D capability, it would appear.


----------



## TViewer2000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *john stephens* /forum/post/19029255
> 
> 
> Yes, and this would seem to be sufficient, provided one uses the Panasonic 300 or 350 Blu-Ray players with their checkerboard output capability. This, together with D* would provide excellent 3D capability, it would appear.



Too bad D* doesn't support our TV, you need the mits adapter to get 3D channel access.


----------



## Troggie

The adapter kit is currently *In Stock* at Fry's Electronics locations in Phoenix & Tempe, AZ! Only $239! I just called to confirm that my order for pick-up is ready and it _is_ in stock.


*edit: Just to clarify, this is the 3DC-1000 starter kit with 2 pairs of glasses, emitter, and adapter.


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Troggie* /forum/post/19030272
> 
> 
> The adapter kit is currently *In Stock* at Fry's Electronics locations in Phoenix & Tempe, AZ! Only $239! I just called to confirm that my order for pick-up is ready and it _is_ in stock.



Which do you mean --the adapter, or the starter kit?


----------



## Troggie

Sorry, should have clarified. It's the starter kit. 3DC-1000


Here's the product page: http://www.frys.com/product/6283840 


It's out of stock for shipping, but on a whim I checked the in store availability.


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Troggie* /forum/post/19030289
> 
> 
> Sorry, should have clarified. It's the starter kit. 3DC-1000
> 
> 
> Here's the product page: http://www.frys.com/product/6283840
> 
> 
> It's out of stock for shipping, but on a whim I checked the in store availability.



Great price!


----------



## Troggie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmalter0* /forum/post/19030306
> 
> 
> Great price!



Absolutely!


I wasn't even planning on purchasing the kit until it came down in price or I could find a cheap one on eBay. Was also thinking about buying them up and selling for a nice profit







but that would be a bit of a dickish move.


I hope this helps someone else in the PHX area.


----------



## dreaux




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TViewer2000* /forum/post/19023557
> 
> 
> I thought you would need glasses AND an emitter. Currently there isn't a starter pack that includes glasses and emitter but not adapter. I'm all for just buying glasses but I don't think this will happen. Yes I know you can buy DLP-link glasses but I don't want to go down that road.



After talking to a Mits dealer, you are right. On the 2010 xx838 and xx738 sets you will need the glasses and emitter, but not the adaptor. He claims Mits _will_ have a firmware update in the near future. A download and then USB into the set.


----------



## walford

Apparenly HDGuru was at the spring anoiuncement in NYC and found that the 3D software is still being planned.

Also ESPN-3D broadcast sporting events in 720p TnB not SbS the update would be required to avoid having to use an Aapter,

http://hdguru.com/mitsubishis-2010-hdtv-line/2001/


----------



## TViewer2000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dreaux* /forum/post/19030422
> 
> 
> After talking to a Mits dealer, you are right. On the 2010 xx838 and xx738 sets you will need the glasses and emitter, but not the adaptor. He claims Mits _will_ have a firmware update in the near future. A download and then USB into the set.



This puts me in a tough position. Buy the adapter kit now for the price of $239 at Fry's or wait and hope that a firmware update is coming. Plus buy the emitter seperately from Mits when it is available.


----------



## GizmoSprocket




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TViewer2000* /forum/post/19030527
> 
> 
> This puts me in a tough position. Buy the adapter kit now for the price of $239 at Fry's or wait and hope that a firmware update is coming. Plus buy the emitter seperately from Mits when it is available.



Time is usually on your side when it comes to the prices of electronics.


That said, if you don't need the adapter, you may want to consider DLP-Link glasses- they don't require an emitter and should work with any front and rear 3d DLP projection system...


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TViewer2000* /forum/post/19030527
> 
> 
> This puts me in a tough position. Buy the adapter kit now for the price of $239 at Fry's or wait and hope that a firmware update is coming. Plus buy the emitter seperately from Mits when it is available.



Dealers are not always the most trustworthy sources; if you can get the kit at that price, buy it. If the firmware does come out, you can sell the adapter on ebay.


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19030469
> 
> 
> Apparenly HDGuru was at the spring anoiuncement in NYC and found that the 3D software is still being planned.
> 
> Also ESPN-3D broadcast sporting events in 720p TnB not SbS the update would be required to avoid having to use an Aapter,
> 
> http://hdguru.com/mitsubishis-2010-hdtv-line/2001/



Gosh I really hope that this promise of a firmware update is still valid. This information is dated July 8th, 2010. That seems like a very long time ago as fast as this stuff is changing...







I just checked the Mitsubishi TV site again and found these two statements in the operating manual for the 2010 WD 82838:


Please visit our website at www.mitsubishi-tv.com for information

about future TV software updates that will broaden

3D signal compatibility.


Notice Concerning Format Co mpatibility

Mitsubishi 3DTVs (738 and 838 series) currently support

the side-by-side 3D signal format. For support of other 3D

formats, such as top-bottom and frame packing (3D Blu

Ray standard), Mitsubishi 3DTVs will require the use of a 3D

source device that outputs the 3D checkerboard format or

a 3D source device coupled with the Mitsubishi 3D adapter.

In all cases an emitter and matching 3D active shutter

glasses or DLP Link active shutter glasses are required in

order to view 3D content



So it looks like Mitsubishi is planning on a possible software update in the future but does not want to commit to it? or possibly a time frame? I could find no other reference to this firmware update on the site but the Notice concerning format compatibility is mentioned in the Specifications fine print and on the 3D Information page (also in the fine print)


----------



## TViewer2000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmalter0* /forum/post/19030579
> 
> 
> Dealers are not always the most trustworthy sources; if you can get the kit at that price, buy it. If the firmware does come out, you can sell the adapter on ebay.



Yea, that's what I'll end up doing. I haven't seen a better price and I rather be in a position that if the firmware doesn't happen at least I'll have the good deal on the product.


EDIT: Purchased just waiting for confirmation. Hopefully they have one in stock still.


EDIT: Alright, had it in stock. Going to go pick it up. Can't beat that price!


----------



## Troggie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TViewer2000* /forum/post/19030642
> 
> 
> Yea, that's what I'll end up doing. I haven't seen a better price and I rather be in a position that if the firmware doesn't happen at least I'll have the good deal on the product.
> 
> 
> EDIT: Purchased just waiting for confirmation. Hopefully they have one in stock still.



You may want to call in for a confirmation. I ordered one for pick-up at the Tempe store this morning and didn't receive an email confirmation (just the initial "order placed" email). I called hours later and they were able to confirm.


----------



## khee mao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mhetman* /forum/post/19025265
> 
> 
> Not true for me....I normally sit about 10 feet away from my Samsung DLP. I tried sitting as close as 3 feet and the X102's did not lose any sync whats so ever. I am not sure why anyone else is having this problem but it simply does not occur with either pair of my X102's.




I never had that problem either. only problem I ever had with my 102s was that they didn't work in conjuntion with the Mits glasses. that and they were kinda heavy.


----------



## MrVizio

Well, got my WD-65738 delivered today. Watched Avatar. The picture is beautiful. Much better than I expected. The blacks are totally acceptable. This is my first DLP and...


I totally see the Rainbow Effect. Really sucks.


It was in the first few minutes of the film, I looked to a different part of the image (the screen's big) and POW, this collection of red, blue, and green lines flashed by. I thought it was the movie, then it hit me. RE! I've heard about it, but had never experienced it. Funny thing is, I didn't see a shred of it at the store.


Every gd TV I get has one problem or another, lol. I just had to be one of the unlucky few that sees this effect. My wife can't see it, but she does experience some eyestrain from watching the set. But she's sensitive to strobing, flashing lights, and that's what the DLP is doing from what I understand. Displaying one color, and then the next, as the color wheel spins along at warp speed.


Sigh... what to do, what to do...


----------



## walford

MrVizio,

Were you and your wife watching 2D or 3D content? If 3D what was the source?

What is your viewing distance?


----------



## Daniel Murray

If you are seeing Rainbow Effects Turn down the contrast a little. Mitsubishi sends out there HD TVs with it all the way up. Most people who see Rainbow see it a lot less after the contrast is turn down some. Give it a try.

On my WD-65835 it is so rare when I see Rainbow Effect.


----------



## usmcss

Just want to give everyone a heads up if ordering from Frys for in store pickup. I just placed an order on Line, the site said it was available for pickup at the Downers Grove location in Illinois. I received an order confirmation but never a pickup confirmation after 1 hour so I called the store. They told me that the item is not in stock and they don't know when it will be.


I just went back to the website and it says that the item is in stock at that location. I talked to two people at the store and they both told me that they don't have any. Only one open box that will be discounted 5%.


Just glad I didn't drive out there.


Make sure they have your item before you drive out to pick it up.


Semper Fi,


Bob


----------



## TViewer2000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usmcss* /forum/post/19033100
> 
> 
> Just want to give everyone a heads up if ordering from Frys for in store pickup. I just placed an order on Line, the site said it was available for pickup at the Downers Grove location in Illinois. I received an order confirmation but never a pickup confirmation after 1 hour so I called the store. They told me that the item is not in stock and they don't know when it will be.
> 
> 
> I just went back to the website and it says that the item is in stock at that location. I talked to two people at the store and they both told me that they don't have any. Only one open box that will be discounted 5%.
> 
> 
> Just glad I didn't drive out there.
> 
> 
> Make sure they have your item before you drive out to pick it up.
> 
> 
> Semper Fi,
> 
> 
> Bob




Yea, I ordered yesterday and still haven't received a confirm e-mail. I called to see what is going on and the lady said they already sent an e-mail stating it was ready to be picked up. They did have it in stock here in Phoenix. Going to go pick it up today.


----------



## Troggie

I picked up my kit from Fry's yesterday evening. The install took a while just because of my birds nest of wires behind the tv (one day I'll get it organized). The only real issue I ran into was with an HDMI switch that connects my PS3 and DirecTV HD-DVR to the adapter. The sources didn't get recognized passed through the switch. So, for now I'll just manually connect one component or the other. Anyone have a suggestion for a cheap auto-switch?


I have the 65c9 and am also having the green tint issue. It's really not noticeable unless there is a lot of black on the screen, which looks more like a dark teal. Other than that, it looks great! Super Startdust HD & Wipeout HD look awesome on the PS3!


----------



## usmcss




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TViewer2000* /forum/post/19033151
> 
> 
> Yea, I ordered yesterday and still haven't received a confirm e-mail. I called to see what is going on and the lady said they already sent an e-mail stating it was ready to be picked up. They did have it in stock here in Phoenix. Going to go pick it up today.



Glade to hear it TVviewer!


----------



## usmcss




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *usmcss* /forum/post/19033100
> 
> 
> Just want to give everyone a heads up if ordering from Frys for in store pickup. I just placed an order on Line, the site said it was available for pickup at the Downers Grove location in Illinois. I received an order confirmation but never a pickup confirmation after 1 hour so I called the store. They told me that the item is not in stock and they don't know when it will be.
> 
> 
> I just went back to the website and it says that the item is in stock at that location. I talked to two people at the store and they both told me that they don't have any. Only one open box that will be discounted 5%.
> 
> 
> Just glad I didn't drive out there.
> 
> 
> Make sure they have your item before you drive out to pick it up.
> 
> 
> Semper Fi,
> 
> 
> Bob



I ended up going to frys and purchasing the open box kit.


I have a Mits 73833. I hooked the DTV Receiver directly to the Adapter and from the adapter to the TV. Audio is going to an old Yamaha receiver from the DTV Receiver. I had to go into the TV Menu and set the input to Game and turn on 3D. Everything worked fine.


What I don't like is the TV doesn't look as good when I switch to a non 3D channel because the TV input is set to Game and I can't have my TV setting on Brilliant mode. If I want the regular channels to look the way I want, I have to switch the input back to SAT or DVD.


The other problem I have is my dam head is to big for the glasses and they start to become real uncomfortable near my ears because they are too tight. This might be a deal breaker for me; hopefully they will loosen up a little.


----------



## Troggie

So my wife decided to go and pick up a few more from Fry's today.










I posted one in the classified section on AVSForum here: 3DC-1000 


I have 3 available, but am thinking about keeping 1 for the glasses and selling the adapter & emitter separate. If anyone's interested in just those, PM me.


----------



## ElecWarehouse

I wanted to apologize to everyone for the long delay in the delivery of the Mitsu. 3DA-1 adapters. We have finally received our initial shipment and have filled all open backorders. We have a few remaining with additional to arrive shortly. In regards to the 3DC-1000, they have been trickling in and we should have all backorders fulfilled within the next week or so. Again we appreciate the patience from all of you who have ordered from us.


----------



## MrVizio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19032988
> 
> 
> MrVizio,
> 
> Were you and your wife watching 2D or 3D content? If 3D what was the source?
> 
> What is your viewing distance?



It was in 2D. The distance was about 8 feet.


----------



## MrVizio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Daniel Murray* /forum/post/19033096
> 
> 
> If you are seeing Rainbow Effects Turn down the contrast a little. Mitsubishi sends out there HD TVs with it all the way up. Most people who see Rainbow see it a lot less after the contrast is turn down some. Give it a try.
> 
> On my WD-65835 it is so rare when I see Rainbow Effect.



I had read about turning the Contrast down. It comes all the way up to 63. I brought it down to around 55-57. Not sure how much it helped. I don't seem to notice the RE much during the day time, but most of my serious viewing is at night. I've also read something about bringing the gamma down from 4 to 2, I believe. This was supposedly through the service menu on older models. Don't know how to access it with this model, but in the advanced settings there is a gamma control and I put it to 2. It brightened the picture some. Not sure if that helped. Going to play around with it some more and report back to you guys. On a side note, I see bright halos around lights at night. Not everyone sees these. Wonder if there could be a connection. Hmmm.


----------



## dagameballa

Look at the first page in this thread for some settings..55 to 57 is to high for my tv..some settings from there may help! Good luck.


----------



## dagameballa

Oops I apologise..the settings are posted in the mitsubishi tv owners thread..on the first page there is alot of useful info to help you with and understand your tv better..again..hope this helps!


----------



## TViewer2000

Alright got a quick chance to hook up the Adapter and try it out. First impression, the 3D was ok but I was watching 3D from the Directv box. The picture seemed a little fuzzy or out of focus. I was watching the mummy program on N3D and I was seeing some redish-pink push. I then turned off the 3D program and started watching regular TV. Now my whites are pink and it seems there is a double image. Now this may have to do with the 3D function on the TV on while no 3D is playing but I'm at work so can't look into it for a couple days.


Other notes: My harmony remote will cause the glasses to lose sync if I hold down let's say the volume control. If I press the volume fairly quickly I can see the glasses go in and out of sync.


2nd Note: I can also notice flicker from the light outside. Not distracting but if I look outside you notice it.


So that's my first 20 minute review of these glasses. When I get more time I can tweak things. Has anyone else run into these issues, and how is everyone setting up their adapter?




EDIT: Well got home last night and fired up the 3D channels and all the colors are back to normal. I replayed the mummy episode that I recorded earlier and the pink hue on everything was gone. Not sure what happened but thankful it is no longer there.


----------



## MrVizio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dagameballa* /forum/post/19036171
> 
> 
> Oops I apologise..the settings are posted in the mitsubishi tv owners thread..on the first page there is alot of useful info to help you with and understand your tv better..again..hope this helps!



Thanks a bunch.


----------



## ajricaud

My TV requires that the 3d input is labeled as "game". However, when it recognizes the Panny it insists on labeling the input as "DVD" and I can't change it. Because of that I can't access "FX gaming" in the TV to change it to 3d.


It seems that the Mits 3d adapter recognizes the Panny's output as 3d because the 3d light turns on. Also, other posters indicate that you can set the Panny for checkerboard output but I can't seem to find any instructions or settings.


I'm going nuts with this. Any help is deeply appreciated.


----------



## TViewer2000

One more quick note. I sit 11 feet back and I can see how the 82" TV would be nicer to watch in 3D.


----------



## gtgray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TViewer2000* /forum/post/19036340
> 
> 
> One more quick note. I sit 11 feet back and I can see how the 82" TV would be nicer to watch in 3D.



I saw an 82" on Monday at Fry's in their darkened theater doing 3D. The 82" creates a very nice deep field.


----------



## Zapix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajricaud* /forum/post/19036295
> 
> 
> My TV requires that the 3d input is labeled as "game". However, when it recognizes the Panny it insists on labeling the input as "DVD" and I can't change it. Because of that I can't access "FX gaming" in the TV to change it to 3d.



Only reference to this problem I've seen fixing it by turning of Viera Cast, a problem that alot of panny and 833 owners seem to be running face first into. I don't know if that will help, but I hope it does. As for where the settings are, I have no idea! I don't own one


----------



## usmcss

All I can say is in a dark room on my 73833 watching 3d from Directv it is pretty Dam nice! It looked good during the day but the total dark room is a world of difference. The glasses were too tight but now are starting to loosen up.


Only real complaint now is if I want to watch regular HD programing I have to change the input back to Sat. I could leave the input on game but I think it looks bad compared to the way it looks on Sat.


----------



## ajricaud




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zapix* /forum/post/19036827
> 
> 
> Only reference to this problem I've seen fixing it by turning of Viera Cast, a problem that alot of panny and 833 owners seem to be running face first into. I don't know if that will help, but I hope it does. As for where the settings are, I have no idea! I don't own one



Thanks. I thought I turned it off but will chk again.


----------



## MrVizio

Got the 3D starter kit at frys. Hell of a deal. Tried some PS3 demo games, not bad. Kinda dim, but considering this is 3D via a firmware update, not bad at all. Nowhere near blu-ray 3D IMO.


What's really interesting is I downloaded some 3D demos and trailers from a newsgroup, played them through my WDTV and they played in perfect 3D. This shocked me as the WDTV is not a 3D source in any way. It just plays media files. The Mits adapter appears to be pretty flexible. If anyone is wondering, the files were SBS format.


So it would seem, based on my little experiment, that the device playing 3D material doesn't have to be something labeled 3D as long as the content is formatted in 3D.


Your guys thoughts?


EDIT: This would suggest that the 3D Blu-ray players that the big companies are charging us so much more for have nothing more than a software difference, which simply allows it to RECOGNIZE 3D material (kind of like a BDP that recognizes MKV format). Which is kind of BS to be charging so much extra for it. If they just added the software to Blu-ray players and charged like 20 bones more, they would still be making a profit. And more people would buy. But what do I know.


----------



## tariqosuave

What newsgroup?


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajricaud* /forum/post/19036295
> 
> 
> My TV requires that the 3d input is labeled as "game". However, when it recognizes the Panny it insists on labeling the input as "DVD" and I can't change it. Because of that I can't access "FX gaming" in the TV to change it to 3d.
> 
> 
> It seems that the Mits 3d adapter recognizes the Panny's output as 3d because the 3d light turns on. Also, other posters indicate that you can set the Panny for checkerboard output but I can't seem to find any instructions or settings.
> 
> 
> I'm going nuts with this. Any help is deeply appreciated.



Yes, I had the exact same problem if you read the thread a few days back. I had to turn the Viera Cast off on the Panny player and after that, the TV lets you change the name to "Game". I called Mitsubishi and Panasonic and they are so ignorant that they weren't able to tell me that. The Checkerboard setting is pretty easy to find on the Panny, I don't have it in front of me now so I can't tell you but if you look, you should be able to find it pretty quickly.


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajricaud* /forum/post/19036295
> 
> 
> It seems that the Mits 3d adapter recognizes the Panny's output as 3d because the 3d light turns on. Also, other posters indicate that you can set the Panny for checkerboard output but I can't seem to find any instructions or settings.
> 
> 
> I'm going nuts with this. Any help is deeply appreciated.



The whole point of buying that player is that you don't need the adapter because it has a checkerboard output setting in it the setup menu.


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenisG* /forum/post/19038119
> 
> 
> The whole point of buying that player is that you don't need the adapter because it has a checkerboard output setting in it the setup menu.



Yes, but from what I understand, you need the adapter for all other 3D sources and you still need the glasses and the emitter for the Panny source.


----------



## TViewer2000

I was messing with my 3D setup last night and I got to wondering about the tilting head problem that the samsung glasses were having. So I tilted my head like I was lying on the couch and the glasses didn't go black. I wonder if they perfected the lens?


----------



## TViewer2000

Does anyone with the 3D enabled have issues with the Harmony Remote causing the glasses to lose sync with the TV?


----------



## darynm

Ok, so after reading this forum I just purchased my 3D Kit from Fry's. That is a remarkable deal! I currently have a Mitsubishi 82' 2009 version. I was all about getting the Panasonic 350 Bluray player. At this point, is it even necessary or will any 3d player work? Or does one work better than another? Otherwise, I will just get the best deal I can on a 3d player


----------



## TViewer2000

With the adapter all you need is a bluray player the outputs 3D. Note the Panny player has dual HDMI outputs so that if you don't have a 3D receiver you can still be able to get HD audio.


----------



## darynm

Well, this is my concern. I have a receiver that has 1.3 but not 1.4 hdmi. Should I play it safe and get the panasonic because I do have a full fledged 7.1 surround setup and don't want to lose true hd audio and dts.


----------



## Joseph Clark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *darynm* /forum/post/19038468
> 
> 
> Well, this is my concern. I have a receiver that has 1.3 but not 1.4 hdmi. Should I play it safe and get the panasonic because I do have a full fledged 7.1 surround setup and don't want to lose true hd audio and dts.



You'll probably be OK with just the Panasonic. Realize that you will have to run an additional HDMI cable from the player to the TV. One of the nice things about HDMI is that it simplifies cabling. Many people run only a single cable to their TVs from their AV receivers, because their AVRs are acting as HDMI switchers. You pick up a little clutter by having to run the extra cable, but it's a lot better than having to buy another AVR. It was a smart move on Panasonic's part to include the extra HDMI output.


----------



## Troggie

I just noticed last night that when switching to and from a 3D channel on my DirecTV receiver (HR22-100) I get some static popping coming through the speakers for a few seconds, then the channel shows up. It also happens when starting a recorded 3D show. This doesn't happen when switching between 3D and non-3D modes on PS3 games.


The adapter is hooked up exactly like in the manual. Any ideas?


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Joseph Clark* /forum/post/19038523
> 
> 
> You'll probably be OK with just the Panasonic. Realize that you will have to run an additional HDMI cable from the player to the TV.



I agree that the Panasonic player would be the best choice to save you some potential grief. And since it outputs checkerboard, you _shouldn't_ even need the extra HDMI output. A checkerboard signal will pass through a 1.3 receiver just fine. I don't have the Panasonic player... it might give you some kind of warning that there's no 3d TV attached, but I believe it will still let you enable 3d output.


----------



## darynm

I think yall are right. I think playing it safe and just get the Panasonic bluray is the way to go for multiple reasons. Hate the extra expense, but if I am going to do it right I want to do it right the first time and have no regrets later. Finding this unit around me to has been hard to do. Have to drive 50 miles, but it's available... Now how to explain this to the wife after picking up 3 bluray players last year! Yikes!


----------



## MrVizio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tariqosuave* /forum/post/19037754
> 
> 
> What newsgroup?



hey, I have to go to work, but I will post info/links later on tonight. But yeah, you can download files from newsgroups and play then on a media player (in my case Western Digital) connected to the Mits adapter and you get 3D. Pretty cool. So far just clips and demos, Cloudy, Coraline. Good for testing out 3D equipment and TV.


----------



## illthreat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MrVizio* /forum/post/19038886
> 
> 
> hey, I have to go to work, but I will post info/links later on tonight. But yeah, you can download files from newsgroups and play then on a media player (in my case Western Digital) connected to the Mits adapter and you get 3D. Pretty cool. So far just clips and demos, Cloudy, Coraline. Good for testing out 3D equipment and TV.



Very interesting. Please post the link when you have time.


----------



## ajricaud




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/19038190
> 
> 
> Yes, but from what I understand, you need the adapter for all other 3D sources and you still need the glasses and the emitter for the Panny source.



Yeah, that's my understanding too. I bought the kit from Fry's, which is about the same price of buying glasses alone. This way I'm ready when TWC starts broadcasting 3d material (supposedly by the end of the yr. in SoCal). I have Series 3 TiVos which are capable of passing 3d material.


If I can get this working I may buy a second kit from Frys if the price stays the same. That way I will have 4 glasses and a spare adapter.


----------



## TViewer2000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajricaud* /forum/post/19039466
> 
> 
> Yeah, that's my understanding too. I bought the kit from Fry's, which is about the same price of buying glasses alone. This way I'm ready when TWC starts broadcasting 3d material (supposedly by the end of the yr. in SoCal). I have Series 3 TiVos which are capable of passing 3d material.
> 
> 
> If I can get this working I may buy a second kit from Frys if the price stays the same. That way I will have 4 glasses and a spare adapter.




It is definately a good deal. I wonder why they have the cost so low. I wonder if something is coming out in the next couple weeks. Maybe a free movie with purchase instead of the demo disc?


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TViewer2000* /forum/post/19039645
> 
> 
> It is definately a good deal. I wonder why they have the cost so low. I wonder if something is coming out in the next couple weeks. Maybe a free movie with purchase instead of the demo disc?



They show it as "Out of Stock" so I got mine from Electronics Expo for $120.00 (30%) off with a coupon. It was shipped out yesterday.


----------



## Jesse E




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MrVizio* /forum/post/19038886
> 
> 
> hey, I have to go to work, but I will post info/links later on tonight. But yeah, you can download files from newsgroups and play then on a media player (in my case Western Digital) connected to the Mits adapter and you get 3D. Pretty cool. So far just clips and demos, Cloudy, Coraline. Good for testing out 3D equipment and TV.



Those WD players are great. I have a WD Live Plus, has Netflix, etc.. wonderful toy. Especially since I have about 1200 movie "back-ups"







on a 2TB drive. I have about 600 of them as .mkv files @ 1080p and the rest are .avi files at 720p, but the player will push it out at 1080p. Last night we were trying a rip of a 3D Cloudy, dropped it on a flashdrive, but just couldn't get it to work, the player wasn't recognizing it for some reason. I'm not good at 3D yet, maybe I need better software... If I get the rip to work, I will be more than happy to share!

Let us know the newsgroup, maybe I can ask what software they are applying. Thank you!!


----------



## ffactoryxx

Damn no Frys nearby!


I want one of these but am holding off for price to go down


----------



## yesan

I have a 60737 and I get the green tint when using the [Samsung] glasses from the starter pack. When I use the glasses and emitter from I/O, I do not get the green tint. Anyone have any luck getting rid of the green tint at all? I've read through most if not all of the posts on the topic, but have not found anything definitive. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yesan* /forum/post/19040668
> 
> 
> I have a 60737 and I get the green tint when using the [Samsung] glasses from the starter pack. When I use the glasses and emitter from I/O, I do not get the green tint. Anyone have any luck getting rid of the green tint at all? I've read through most if not all of the posts on the topic, but have not found anything definitive. Thanks in advance.



Can you tell us more about the quality of the i/o glasses please?


Do you see a rainbow effect?


Are they comfortable?


Do they block out more or less ambient light than the Sammys?


Any 'crispness' or other video differences other than the green tint?


If not for the green tint, which brand would you rate higher?


----------



## ajricaud




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/19038084
> 
> 
> Yes, I had the exact same problem if you read the thread a few days back. I had to turn the Viera Cast off on the Panny player and after that, the TV lets you change the name to "Game". I called Mitsubishi and Panasonic and they are so ignorant that they weren't able to tell me that. The Checkerboard setting is pretty easy to find on the Panny, I don't have it in front of me now so I can't tell you but if you look, you should be able to find it pretty quickly.



SUCCESS! I finally found the checkerboard setting in the Panny. I still could not change the input on the Mits 73833 to "game", though. I even tried changing the PS3 input to something else and still could not change the Panny input to "game". Luckily I had a workaround. I had a PS3 connected to "game" so I quickly changed the cables btwn it and the Panny.


It finally worked but I think I had to change the setting in "FX gaming" to "on" and "reverse" ( I have a lousy memory and was making a lot of changes in the TV & the Panny).


----------



## Jesse E




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *MrVizio* /forum/post/19038886
> 
> 
> hey, I have to go to work, but I will post info/links later on tonight. But yeah, you can download files from newsgroups and play then on a media player (in my case Western Digital) connected to the Mits adapter and you get 3D. Pretty cool. So far just clips and demos, Cloudy, Coraline. Good for testing out 3D equipment and TV.



Found it!

Thanks for the heads up!!

www.biohemmet.se


----------



## bcterp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yesan* /forum/post/19040668
> 
> 
> I have a 60737 and I get the green tint when using the [Samsung] glasses from the starter pack. When I use the glasses and emitter from I/O, I do not get the green tint. Anyone have any luck getting rid of the green tint at all? I've read through most if not all of the posts on the topic, but have not found anything definitive. Thanks in advance.



The short answer is that there is no way to fix this as of now. Basically all pre 2010 models have dlp-link flashes forced on when in 3D mode. This is optional with the latest models. MDEA considers this "normal" and won't acknowledge it is a problem. Refer to the thread in the 3D displays section for more detailed info.


----------



## Thor74

Roughly $290 - Electronics Expo

I did not see lujan's post above but was using a price notification email app. and came across same offer from Electronics Expo about 4 days back. (They have several physical locations in NJ but also have a mixed bag of reviews as online seller). They still are is honoring their online discount code "LS0730" ($120 off) on this kit, as of 8/12/2010, bringing the price down to $286.83 on my recent order (I live in Texas).


My brand new kit came in mail today with no problem (used Amazon Payment option since I was worried about this company's reviews). This is the cheapest I have seen for the kit online. Just confirming lujan's post and have had 2 other friends buy the kit (they just ordered yesterday & today) from same online store.


----------



## BillFree

I have Mits wd-65735 3D Ready HDTV, Panasonic 3D -350 player. I followed the instructions for hookup using 1.4 hdmi cables. Turned on 3D mode on tv, set checkerboard display, powered up adapter, pressed 3D on adapter remote. I put in all the (2)panasonic, (1)Disney,3D demo disc's, 3D movies using my Xpand102 & kit 2100 glasses. Everything jumped right out of the screen. No fuss, no adjustments, (no avr receiver).

I ran the above demo's without the Mits 3D kit before and it was very acceptable but with the Mits kit color was perfect depth was perfect. As a note, I prefered the Xpand102 glasses because they were comfortable. Samsung(mits) glasses were fine but fragile. Any bending, twisting causes the material to separate. Keep them away from kids.

Thanks everyone on this forum for your feedback. It helps us all get up to speed. Thanks to Mits for stepping up to the plate for already 3D-Ready owners.

P.S. On MvA I had to set 3D mode on reverse and it really popped up 3D like never before.


----------



## Milmanias




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yesan* /forum/post/19040668
> 
> 
> I have a 60737 and I get the green tint when using the [Samsung] glasses from the starter pack. When I use the glasses and emitter from I/O, I do not get the green tint. Anyone have any luck getting rid of the green tint at all? I've read through most if not all of the posts on the topic, but have not found anything definitive. Thanks in advance.



I'm not sure I understand. If you do not get the green tint with the I/O glasses, why ask if anyone has had luck getting rid of it? Besides you with the I/O glasses, jjknatl and Splashman24 reported not seeing the green tint with the optoma dlp-link glasses, but those had a rainbow effect problem.


----------



## walford

With the Panasonic 350 there is absolutluy no need to use an adapter to convert the 3D BR packed fame format to Checkerboard since the 350 player provides the option itself to output checkerboard directly therefore requiring no adapter to do the exactly the same transformation.


----------



## GTarrant

I must be one of the very unlucky ones with these adapters. This is the 2nd started pack I received and both I cannot get to display a 2D or 3D image from the sources I have hooked up to it. My current equipment are: Wd-73833, Sony PS3 60 gig and Sony BDP-S570.

All my TV can muster is a browish tint of green when either device is hooked up to the 3DC-1000 unit. I am at a loss on what to do. Anyone else have this problem and solve it? Thanks.


----------



## GreggyJ

I want to encourage anybody who has a PS3 and the adapter to get Super Stardust HD. It's absolutely gorgeous.


Now, if only my HDMI handshake issues would let me play for more than 10 minutes


----------



## walford

GT,

Have you upgraded your 570 with the 3D upgrade released earlier this summer from the Sony website.

Which HDMI input on your TV do you have the HDMI output from the adapter connected to?


----------



## GTarrant




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19041775
> 
> 
> GT,
> 
> Have you upgraded your 570 with the 3D upgrade released earlier this summer from the Sony website.
> 
> Which HDMI input on your TV do you have the HDMI output from the adapter connected to?



Walford,

I do have the latest update for the player and I have the device connected to HDMI 2 on the TV.


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GTarrant* /forum/post/19041782
> 
> 
> Walford,
> 
> I do have the latest update for the player and I have the device connected to HDMI 2 on the TV.



Not sure if that is the correct port (it may be), but you also have to go into the menu system on the TV and activate 3D.


List here the exact steps you are following - we need more info from you.


----------



## Jesse E

Just picked up my starter kit from Fry's in Burbank, CA. $239, as advertised. They have 5 in stock.


Thank you for the heads up on the deal! Time to sell my 3DA-1 adapter on fleabay!


----------



## ffactoryxx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jesse E* /forum/post/19042037
> 
> 
> Just picked up my starter kit from Fry's in Burbank, CA. $239, as advertised. They have 5 in stock.
> 
> 
> Thank you for the heads up on the deal! Time to sell my 3DA-1 adapter on fleabay!



Anyone want to pick me up the pack at Frys and ship to PA? I could Paypal










Either way do you guys think the Electronics Expo Deal at $286 is good? Think these things will lower in price soon?


----------



## Spektre99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yesan* /forum/post/19040668
> 
> 
> I have a 60737 and I get the green tint when using the [Samsung] glasses from the starter pack. When I use the glasses and emitter from I/O, I do not get the green tint. Anyone have any luck getting rid of the green tint at all? I've read through most if not all of the posts on the topic, but have not found anything definitive. Thanks in advance.



Can you do me a favor? Let me know if the Mitsubishi Glasses work with the IO emitter and glasses at the same time? Or vice versa, if all the glasses work simutaneously with the Mitsubishi emmiter. Would like to get a starter pack and pick up some extra glasses from IO.


Thanks in advance.


----------



## ffactoryxx

So are there any glasses that do not need a Emitter for the WD 65C9?


I read the XPand X102 glasses auto sync.


Also what are better in regards to the Glasses in the 3DC-1000 Pack or the Xpand x102's


----------



## Zapix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GTarrant* /forum/post/19041719
> 
> 
> I must be one of the very unlucky ones with these adapters. This is the 2nd started pack I received and both I cannot get to display a 2D or 3D image from the sources I have hooked up to it. My current equipment are: Wd-73833, Sony PS3 60 gig and Sony BDP-S570.
> 
> All my TV can muster is a browish tint of green when either device is hooked up to the 3DC-1000 unit. I am at a loss on what to do. Anyone else have this problem and solve it? Thanks.



The 833 and the adapter don't get along quite as well as later generations of the TV, as I think any 833 owner here will tell you.


Here's what to do with the PS3 as it took me forever to get it working. Hook your PS3 directly to the TV via an HDMI other than the one the adapter is plugged into. In the PS3 display settings use automatic if you haven't already and let it select 480p, 720p, 1080i and 1080p as it will for our 73833s. Save the settings.


Now it doesn't matter if you turn the PS3 off or not, but go ahead and hook it back up through the adapter. If possible (and rather important actually), make sure you have some other device connected via HDMI or an HDMI cable plugged into say HDMI-3 so there's an input available to select on the TV. Non HDMI inputs so far have not worked for me.


Switch over to the HDMI input you have the adapter plugged into. One of two things should happen.

A.) You get a blue screen as if nothing is plugged in or turned on

B.) You see the PS3 XMB menu.


If it acts like nothing is plugged in, switch to another HDMI input then switch back to the adapter. This is the problem the 833 has with the adapter, and it can be a little annoying from a technical standpoint (especially if you're trying to show it off to people) which makes the technology look flawed. If you have a secondary sound source you can use (such as an optical cable to an A/V receiver), set the PS3 to use multiple audio outputs from the sound settings on the PS3. This is useful to verify the PS3 (or any other device you are trying to connect) is working.


If you get the display though, go back to the display settings again, and go through it again. You may encounter the display going blue again like it's not turned on. If so, do the above and switch HDMI inputs to and back. The PS3 will say it has detected your TV has 3D and will prompt you for your TV size. Select 73, and continue.


With the PS3, you will likely have to change inputs alot between turning it on and changing between 2D and 3D content. For whatever reason, there seems to be a lack of communication going on between the adapter and the 833.


Also be sure the input for 3D is named GAME and that you turn on FX Gaming for 3D content. If FX Gaming is off when you turn 3D content on, you will still see the picture, but the adapter will have a message on the screen telling you to switch the 3D mode of your TV on.


Hopefully this helps.


I thought my adapter was broken for the first couple of hours until I figured out how to make it work. Turned out after reading posts from other people on this thread, I wasn't alone and that seemingly all 833 owners have some troubles.


On a side note, my cable box has been working flawlessly with the adapter and not giving me troubles anymore as long as I leave it connected to the adapter. If I unplug it, I have to resort to the input changing to get it to start working. Why, it works without a problem now, I have no idea.


----------



## MrVizio

For those that were wanting 3D media files to play through their WDTVs, the forum wouldn't let me post them. Said: 'Your submission could not be processed because a security token was missing. If this occurred unexpectedly, please inform the administrator and describe the action you performed before you received this error'. I'm not familiar with what this means.


But if you just go to NZBmatrix and put in '3D 1080p SBS' they'll come up. There's a few full 1080p SBSs but my older WDTV wouldn't display them, but the 'half' ones do play. And look very good too. I watched 'Cloudy' it was great. Going to watch 'Ice Age' next. Even found an Adult 3D demo. Wow, is all I can say. I think porno might just be what pushes 3D forward, lol.


----------



## MrVizio

Also, my new Mits is buggy as hell. I've had to do 4 hard resets on it already. It was a returned set that was supposedly fine, and I got 10% off, but I'm returning and just gonna pay the 100+ dollars for a new one in the box.


Aside from this sets faulty software, I really like the image. Love the size. Still debating if I'll keep it or go back to my Vizio 55 LED, which was a solid set in every area, and quite the bargain too.


Wish to the sweet Lord above that I could just go with plasma, but the reflections are too much for me too handle. Than again, I only had the LG PK550, which was a mirror. And completely unwatchable during the day.


So it's prob this Mits or my old Vizio. Man this is tough


----------



## PBSengineer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GTarrant* /forum/post/19041719
> 
> 
> I must be one of the very unlucky ones with these adapters. This is the 2nd started pack I received and both I cannot get to display a 2D or 3D image from the sources I have hooked up to it. My current equipment are: Wd-73833, Sony PS3 60 gig and Sony BDP-S570.
> 
> All my TV can muster is a browish tint of green when either device is hooked up to the 3DC-1000 unit. I am at a loss on what to do. Anyone else have this problem and solve it? Thanks.



I know you've already tried this, but are you absolutely sure that you are using good HDMI cables - they are fragile. Mine passes the 2D content from the Comcast box with no problem - I have to select the 3D type on the adapter to actually see 3D, but no problem there either (other than that pesky green black level)


----------



## darynm

Well, yesterday I purchased the Mitsubishi adapter kit and Panasonic 350 3D player. I had some set up issues only because I was trying to feed everything thru my Pioneer Elite receiver that is pre 1.4 and couldn't get it to work. I don't know if I am doing something wrong or feeding 3d thru 1.3 will just not work although some have claimed it would.


Now I am debating if I should go break the bank further and pick up another adapter kit for the glasses. Hollywood seems to find ways to empty our wallets!


----------



## ffactoryxx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *darynm* /forum/post/19043456
> 
> 
> Well, yesterday I purchased the Mitsubishi adapter kit and Panasonic 350 3D player. I had some set up issues only because I was trying to feed everything thru my Pioneer Elite receiver that is pre 1.4 and couldn't get it to work. I don't know if I am doing something wrong or feeding 3d thru 1.3 will just not work although some have claimed it would.
> 
> 
> Now I am debating if I should go break the bank further and pick up another adapter kit for the glasses. Hollywood seems to find ways to empty our wallets!



Why not try and feed the HDMI directly to you TV and a Optical from the source to your receiver? See if that works.


Once it works, it might entice you to grab a new receiver.


----------



## darynm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/19038684
> 
> 
> I agree that the Panasonic player would be the best choice to save you some potential grief. And since it outputs checkerboard, you _shouldn't_ even need the extra HDMI output. A checkerboard signal will pass through a 1.3 receiver just fine. I don't have the Panasonic player... it might give you some kind of warning that there's no 3d TV attached, but I believe it will still let you enable 3d output.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ffactoryxx* /forum/post/19043512
> 
> 
> Why not try and feed the HDMI directly to you TV and a Optical from the source to your receiver? See if that works.
> 
> 
> Once it works, it might entice you to grab a new receiver.



I do have it directly feed straight to the tv now and it does work. I was hoping i could figure out how to do it thru my receiver as I have only had it for a year and was very expensive. The desire to have a receiver that is a one stop solution would be great!


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcterp* /forum/post/19040758
> 
> 
> The short answer is that there is no way to fix this as of now. Basically all pre 2010 models have dlp-link flashes forced on when in 3D mode. This is optional with the latest models. MDEA considers this "normal" and won't acknowledge it is a problem. Refer to the thread in the 3D displays section for more detailed info.



Should we start a thread for pre-2010 model owners to use as a sign-up sheet for a petition to MDEA, and/or as a list of potential plaintiffs for a class action?


While we're at it, we should have those who see a rainbow with DLP-Link glasses sign on as well, although that is less of a concern to me since the mits glasses have resolved that particular issue.


There are ways to force MDEA to make a move. There really is power in numbers in a situation like this.


----------



## White_Worm

Just curious, does anyone occasionally lose picture for 5 to 10 seconds with the 3DA-1 passing through 2D content? Its quite rare in my experience, maybe once for every 40 hours. But in the middle of a Virtua Fighter session, its enough to get me killed!


I'm wondering if it has something to do with the 3DA-1, or my new Denon DHT-591. It could also be the Gefen HDMI detective, or my Samsung HL67A750 (HDMI 3, named "PC"). So has anyone else experienced picture loss using any of these components?


----------



## ffactoryxx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *darynm* /forum/post/19043532
> 
> 
> I do have it directly feed straight to the tv now and it does work. I was hoping i could figure out how to do it thru my receiver as I have only had it for a year and was very expensive. The desire to have a receiver that is a one stop solution would be great!



Check out an Onkyo SR608 or SR 508. Know Newegg has the 508 for $250 shipped and the SR 608 can be had for $360-400


----------



## eddy_winds




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19043568
> 
> 
> Should we start a thread for pre-2010 model owners to use as a sign-up sheet for a petition to MDEA, and/or as a list of potential plaintiffs for a class action?




The sign-up sheet/Thread for the Samsung owners got KO after 3 posts


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eddy_winds* /forum/post/19043651
> 
> 
> The sign-up sheet/Thread for the Samsung owners got KO after 3 posts



AFAIK petitions are against this sites rules.


----------



## hoddy4

I guess I'm still trying to understand what we are trying to fix on the pre-2010 models. Are we saying that all pre-2010 models will have grayish blacks and/or a greenish tint when in the 3D mode regardless of source and setup? I have the option of buying a 60738 or a 73C9 (I realize they are different sizes) and I am not sure which was to go.


----------



## bcterp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoddy4* /forum/post/19044089
> 
> 
> Are we saying that all pre-2010 models will have grayish blacks and/or a greenish tint when in the 3D mode regardless of source and setup?



Correct. If you have a pre 2010 model you are better off with DLP-link glasses as they sync with the light flashes that cause this issue and better block them out. Mitsubishi's glasses do not and picture quality suffers. Since you can turn off the flashes in 2010 models it is not an issue for these models. Users of the older models and IR emitter glasses (such as those found in the 3DC-1000 kit) have no use for the light flashes, can not turn them off, and it only degrades picture quality. Diamondpilot has several excellent posts in the following thread that describe the what and why of this issue.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1265214


----------



## Milmanias




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoddy4* /forum/post/19044089
> 
> 
> I have the option of buying a 60738 or a 73C9 (I realize they are different sizes) and I am not sure which was to go.



That's a big difference in screen size; I bought a 73C9 a month ago. If I had known about the green tint (and I don't have the 3d kit yet so I don't know how noticeable it is) I would've waited until I could get the 73738 for a good price. 2D is great on this set, and if I had to choose between screen size and the lesser blacks I would go for the 73". If I were you, I'd try to see the green tint on an older set and see if it bothers you, but I wouldn't go less than 73" if you have the space for it.


----------



## hoddy4

I decided to go with the 60738 which I got from Walts for $1090 with free shipping and no tax pjus another $99 for the 3D kit. I could have had the 73C9 for Dell for about $1135 plus tax. I decided after going to an HHGregg and seeing the 2D picture side by side. I was just more impressed with the color, contrast, and black levels on the 60738 in 2D. The better 3D performance should be an added bonus.


----------



## Mdurnin

Hi folks,


Thanks to everyone for your contributions in this tread and others regarding the Mitsubishi TVs. Been very helpful to me in many ways. Apologies if the following question is ignorant or uninformed.


I have a WD-73837. I am seeing the "black to teal" effect if I turn on 3D mode in the settings menu. The background of the of the 3D options field turns teal. My cable system is broadcasting a 3D channel from time to time, like the PGA today. The presentation is side-by-side.


If I purchase 3DC-1000 3D Starter Pack and install it as directed, would I have to turn on 3D mode for it to work with my cable SBS broadcast?


If I bought the Panasonic checkerboard 3D Blu-ray player, would I have to turn on the 3D mode?


I agree that this is NOT what we all bargined for when purchasing this TV. 3D should work with minimal, if any side effects.


Interestingly, I went to Best Buy last weekend to see what 3D looked like on current TV/players. Some better than others. But there was a WD-82838 in a room almost by itself and no 3D on the display. When I inquired, I was told they were having a minor problem that would be corrected in a few days...

The Best Buy is 40+ miles away, so I won't be returning soon.


Thanks in advance,

Marc


----------



## div3r5ity

hello everyone. i need some help/answers. here's what i got. 73'' mitsubishi 2008 735 series w/ 3d adapter 3dc-1000 and cox cablebox dch3416 and my new sr608


if i hook it up.....


cablebox-receiver-tv=works fine


if i hook it up for 3d.....


cablebox-3d adapter-tv= 3d works fine, i watched pga golf today.


if i hook it up 3d this way.....


cablebox-receiver-3d apapter-tv= i get a message "the 3d content protection of your repeater has been compromised. all devices connect to the repeater will not be authorized to receive video over the digital link" then the screen goes green.


i need to hook it up that way so i dont have to keep unplugging it when i wanna use the ps3 in 3d. that passes through fine through the receiver. at first i thought it was cox but they said everything good on their end. im stumped any ideas please??


----------



## bcterp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mdurnin* /forum/post/19044858
> 
> 
> Hi folks,
> 
> 
> Thanks to everyone for your contributions in this tread and others regarding the Mitsubishi TVs. Been very helpful to me in many ways. Apologies if the following question is ignorant or uninformed.
> 
> 
> I have a WD-73837. I am seeing the "black to teal" effect if I turn on 3D mode in the settings menu. The background of the of the 3D options field turns teal. My cable system is broadcasting a 3D channel from time to time, like the PGA today. The presentation is side-by-side.
> 
> 
> If I purchase 3DC-1000 3D Starter Pack and install it as directed, would I have to turn on 3D mode for it to work with my cable SBS broadcast?
> 
> 
> If I bought the Panasonic checkerboard 3D Blu-ray player, would I have to turn on the 3D mode?
> 
> 
> I agree that this is NOT what we all bargined for when purchasing this TV. 3D should work with minimal, if any side effects.
> 
> 
> Interestingly, I went to Best Buy last weekend to see what 3D looked like on current TV/players. Some better than others. But there was a WD-82838 in a room almost by itself and no 3D on the display. When I inquired, I was told they were having a minor problem that would be corrected in a few days...
> 
> The Best Buy is 40+ miles away, so I won't be returning soon.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Marc



3D mode must be set to on. No exceptions,I've tried.


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *div3r5ity* /forum/post/19044868
> 
> 
> hello everyone. i need some help/answers. here's what i got. 73'' mitsubishi 2008 735 series w/ 3d adapter 3dc-1000 and cox cablebox dch3416 and my new sr608
> 
> 
> if i hook it up.....
> 
> 
> cablebox-receiver-tv=works fine
> 
> 
> if i hook it up for 3d.....
> 
> 
> cablebox-3d adapter-tv= 3d works fine, i watched pga golf today.
> 
> 
> if i hook it up 3d this way.....
> 
> 
> cablebox-receiver-3d apapter-tv= i get a message "the 3d content protection of your repeater has been compromised. all devices connect to the repeater will not be authorized to receive video over the digital link" then the screen goes green.
> 
> 
> i need to hook it up that way so i dont have to keep unplugging it when i wanna use the ps3 in 3d. that passes through fine through the receiver. at first i thought it was cox but they said everything good on their end. im stumped any ideas please??



Sounds like your receiver is not sending the 3D authorization back to your cable box. Most receivers that do not have the very new 1.4 spec will not pass it through.


----------



## Bulletttime




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *White_Worm* /forum/post/19043592
> 
> 
> Just curious, does anyone occasionally lose picture for 5 to 10 seconds with the 3DA-1 passing through 2D content? Its quite rare in my experience, maybe once for every 40 hours. But in the middle of a Virtua Fighter session, its enough to get me killed!
> 
> 
> I'm wondering if it has something to do with the 3DA-1, or my new Denon DHT-591. It could also be the Gefen HDMI detective, or my Samsung HL67A750 (HDMI 3, named "PC"). So has anyone else experienced picture loss using any of these components?



Yes, I've been experiencing this same problem. For me its pretty random when it happens, but I was watching a movie the other night, and it happend 4 times. I'm not sure if it's a problem with the TV (73C9) or the adapter, since I purchased them at the same time. Luckily, I'm still within the 30 day warranty, so I contacted a service shop. They ordered a part for the TV (on backorder from the supplier), so hopefully in the next couple weeks, it should be fixed (if it is indeed the TV, and not the adapter).


----------



## div3r5ity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Athlon646464* /forum/post/19044969
> 
> 
> Sounds like your receiver is not sending the 3D authorization back to your cable box. Most receivers that do not have the very new 1.4 spec will not pass it through.



i got an onkyo tx-sr608 which is 3d capable. i called onkyo and 1 person said that the cablebox or receiver is thinking that the 3dc-1000 is a recording device and another person said its because the 3dc is not hdcp complaint. man i dunno at this point.


----------



## bdhart




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ffactoryxx* /forum/post/19043614
> 
> 
> Check out an Onkyo SR608 or SR 508. Know Newegg has the 508 for $250 shipped and the SR 608 can be had for $360-400



I have heard that the 608 and 508 will not pass through the 3-D content. Has anyone been able to get the 608 to work with 3-D? What receivers are you using that actually work with the 3-D?


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *div3r5ity* /forum/post/19045231
> 
> 
> i got an onkyo tx-sr608 which is 3d capable. i called onkyo and 1 person said that the cablebox or receiver is thinking that the 3dc-1000 is a recording device and another person said its because the 3dc is not hdcp complaint. man i dunno at this point.



There are a couple of reviews at Amazon praising your receiver - except when it comes to some folks setups and 3D. It looks like that Onkyo may have some issues with certain 3D configurations.


All of this is because of DRM issues being pushed by the various content sources - the very folks trying to sell us this stuff are making it impossible to hook it up without spending hours on the phone and reading forums.


----------



## khee mao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *darynm* /forum/post/19043456
> 
> 
> Well, yesterday I purchased the Mitsubishi adapter kit and Panasonic 350 3D player. I had some set up issues only because I was trying to feed everything thru my Pioneer Elite receiver that is pre 1.4 and couldn't get it to work. I don't know if I am doing something wrong or feeding 3d thru 1.3 will just not work although some have claimed it would.
> 
> 
> Now I am debating if I should go break the bank further and pick up another adapter kit for the glasses. Hollywood seems to find ways to empty our wallets!




if you get the samsung starter kit, you get the same glasses and a free movie...


----------



## ffactoryxx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bdhart* /forum/post/19045454
> 
> 
> I have heard that the 608 and 508 will not pass through the 3-D content. Has anyone been able to get the 608 to work with 3-D? What receivers are you using that actually work with the 3-D?



I would definitely look into that as I have read a few people being able to pass through 3-D on those models.


I'm sure someone here could chime in. If you look about 3 posts up, that member has the 608. Maybe PM him.


----------



## ffactoryxx

OMG!!!!!


This is awesome. First off im in PA and my gf has been away for 3 weeks with her family in Houston (she will be back Sunday). She asked what I was doing this weekend and I said (other than thinking of her. HAHA) driving 1.5 hours to Electronic Expo to get the 3dc-1000 kit which was onsale after coupon. I then mentioned I wish i had a frys here where it is $240. She is like, there is a Frys 2 miles from my parents. I literally went Coco for Coco puffs. She is picking me up one and bringing it back Sunday! After I hook that puppy up, im gonna make her wear them shutter glasses and give her some real 3d action if you know what i mean.


----------



## MrVizio




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ffactoryxx* /forum/post/19046383
> 
> 
> OMG!!!!!
> 
> 
> This is awesome. First off im in PA and my gf has been away for 3 weeks with her family in Houston (she will be back Sunday). She asked what I was doing this weekend and I said (other than thinking of her. HAHA) driving 1.5 hours to Electronic Expo to get the 3dc-1000 kit which was onsale after coupon. I then mentioned I wish i had a frys here where it is $240. She is like, there is a Frys 2 miles from my parents. I literally went Coco for Coco puffs. She is picking me up one and bringing it back Sunday! After I hook that puppy up, im gonna make her wear them shutter glasses and give her some real 3d action if you know what i mean.



Lol. Cool. Yeah, the Frys deal is amazing. I'm wondering if I went to BB or UE if they would price match? They claim they do, but they might fight me on this one. I already got a 3D kit from Frys, but was just wondering.


Just noticed we both have exactly 45 posts, spooky


----------



## div3r5ity

here's the update


called cox and said its onkyo


called onkyo and they said the cablebox is thinking that the 3dc is a recording device which is making the hdcp appear, and was instructed to call motorola.


called motorola and was told that if the cablebox works correctly when hooked up cablebox


----------



## Scubawoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *div3r5ity* /forum/post/19044868
> 
> 
> hello everyone. i need some help/answers. here's what i got. 73'' mitsubishi 2008 735 series w/ 3d adapter 3dc-1000 and cox cablebox dch3416 and my new sr608
> 
> 
> if i hook it up.....
> 
> 
> cablebox-receiver-tv=works fine
> 
> 
> if i hook it up for 3d.....
> 
> 
> cablebox-3d adapter-tv= 3d works fine, i watched pga golf today.
> 
> 
> if i hook it up 3d this way.....
> 
> 
> cablebox-receiver-3d apapter-tv= i get a message "the 3d content protection of your repeater has been compromised. all devices connect to the repeater will not be authorized to receive video over the digital link" then the screen goes green.
> 
> 
> i need to hook it up that way so i dont have to keep unplugging it when i wanna use the ps3 in 3d. that passes through fine through the receiver. at first i thought it was cox but they said everything good on their end. im stumped any ideas please??



In my past experience with Onkyo tech. support they are worthless. You will likely continue to get the run-around and told it isn't an Onkyo problem.


You can either get the Gefen HDMI detective and program it for a receiver that will pass 3D signal (I don't know how to do it as it isn't a problem for me).


The easiest solution is to get a HDMI switch (I have the Octava 5x1 and 3x1 and they are compatible with 3D and work well) and use 1 output to your avr and the other to the 3D adapter. You will then need to hook up audio using optical if your cable box has it so you will use your avr for audio when using 3D but your tv for video. So if you don't want 3D you'll use your avr as your switcher for audio and video. When you want 3D use your avr for sound only and then change the input on your tv to the adapter.

That's how I have my Directv dvr connected and it works without any issue.


----------



## div3r5ity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scubawoman* /forum/post/19046742
> 
> 
> In my past experience with Onkyo tech. support they are worthless. You will likely continue to get the run-around and told it isn't an Onkyo problem.
> 
> 
> You can either get the Gefen HDMI detective and program it for a receiver that will pass 3D signal (I don't know how to do it as it isn't a problem for me).
> 
> 
> The easiest solution is to get a HDMI switch (I have the Octava 5x1 and 3x1 and they are compatible with 3D and work well) and use 1 output to your avr and the other to the 3D adapter. You will then need to hook up audio using optical if your cable box has it so you will use your avr for audio when using 3D but your tv for video. So if you don't want 3D you'll use your avr as your switcher for audio and video. When you want 3D use your avr for sound only and then change the input on your tv to the adapter.
> 
> That's how I have my Directv dvr connected and it works without any issue.



i may have to consider that option because i do not want to be unplugging and replugging just to use watch 3d. hopefully the hdmi switch isnt expensive.


----------



## Scubawoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *div3r5ity* /forum/post/19046847
> 
> 
> i may have to consider that option because i do not want to be unplugging and replugging just to use watch 3d. hopefully the hdmi switch isnt expensive.



I don't think they are expensive, they are definitely worth their price. Everything is relative. Here's the link for Octava

http://www.octavainc.com/HDMI%20switch%205port.htm


----------



## div3r5ity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scubawoman* /forum/post/19046967
> 
> 
> I don't think they are expensive, they are definitely worth their price. Everything is relative. Here's the link for Octava
> 
> http://www.octavainc.com/HDMI%20switch%205port.htm



appreciate it


----------



## div3r5ity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scubawoman* /forum/post/19046967
> 
> 
> I don't think they are expensive, they are definitely worth their price. Everything is relative. Here's the link for Octava
> 
> http://www.octavainc.com/HDMI%20switch%205port.htm



wait this switch only has 1 output. the adapter has only 1 hdmi in and 1 hdmi out. i dont think this will work


----------



## GTarrant




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zapix* /forum/post/19042516
> 
> 
> The 833 and the adapter don't get along quite as well as later generations of the TV, as I think any 833 owner here will tell you.
> 
> 
> Here's what to do with the PS3 as it took me forever to get it working. Hook your PS3 directly to the TV via an HDMI other than the one the adapter is plugged into. In the PS3 display settings use automatic if you haven't already and let it select 480p, 720p, 1080i and 1080p as it will for our 73833s. Save the settings.
> 
> 
> Now it doesn't matter if you turn the PS3 off or not, but go ahead and hook it back up through the adapter. If possible (and rather important actually), make sure you have some other device connected via HDMI or an HDMI cable plugged into say HDMI-3 so there's an input available to select on the TV. Non HDMI inputs so far have not worked for me.
> 
> 
> Switch over to the HDMI input you have the adapter plugged into. One of two things should happen.
> 
> A.) You get a blue screen as if nothing is plugged in or turned on
> 
> B.) You see the PS3 XMB menu.
> 
> 
> If it acts like nothing is plugged in, switch to another HDMI input then switch back to the adapter. This is the problem the 833 has with the adapter, and it can be a little annoying from a technical standpoint (especially if you're trying to show it off to people) which makes the technology look flawed. If you have a secondary sound source you can use (such as an optical cable to an A/V receiver), set the PS3 to use multiple audio outputs from the sound settings on the PS3. This is useful to verify the PS3 (or any other device you are trying to connect) is working.
> 
> 
> If you get the display though, go back to the display settings again, and go through it again. You may encounter the display going blue again like it's not turned on. If so, do the above and switch HDMI inputs to and back. The PS3 will say it has detected your TV has 3D and will prompt you for your TV size. Select 73, and continue.
> 
> 
> With the PS3, you will likely have to change inputs alot between turning it on and changing between 2D and 3D content. For whatever reason, there seems to be a lack of communication going on between the adapter and the 833.
> 
> 
> Also be sure the input for 3D is named GAME and that you turn on FX Gaming for 3D content. If FX Gaming is off when you turn 3D content on, you will still see the picture, but the adapter will have a message on the screen telling you to switch the 3D mode of your TV on.
> 
> 
> Hopefully this helps.
> 
> 
> I thought my adapter was broken for the first couple of hours until I figured out how to make it work. Turned out after reading posts from other people on this thread, I wasn't alone and that seemingly all 833 owners have some troubles.
> 
> 
> On a side note, my cable box has been working flawlessly with the adapter and not giving me troubles anymore as long as I leave it connected to the adapter. If I unplug it, I have to resort to the input changing to get it to start working. Why, it works without a problem now, I have no idea.



That is a lot of useful info you just gave me. Thanks.

With the first inquires of my problem with this adapter(thanks Athlon646464) I decieded to re-connect the device to my system. I followed the steps again and inserted a disk and got a picture that eventually I was able to see in 3D.

Maybe I am unsure how this device works and hopefully you can enlighten me. When I plug in a Blu-ray player or PS3 into the TV from the 3DC-1000 should I see the menus of the system? I have seen the picture in 3D on the Sony BDP-S570 only when the movie was inserted and started. I never was able to see the menu. Is this normal?

I will try with the above steps for me PS3 next. Thanks for all the help.


----------



## Scubawoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *div3r5ity* /forum/post/19047008
> 
> 
> wait this switch only has 1 output. the adapter has only 1 hdmi in and 1 hdmi out. i dont think this will work



Sorry for the mistake, I've been hooking up with switchers and splitters for all this 3D stuff and got them mixed when trying to help you out.







I use the Octava for my dvrs to my avr as I needed more HDMI inputs. The monospot splitter is what I use to split 1 dvr into 2 outputs so 1 goes to the avr, the other to the 3dc1000. I haven't had any problem with any of them working as they are supposed to for 3D. Here is the link for that one

http://www.monoprice.com/products/se...=4921&x=22&y=2


----------



## Zapix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GTarrant* /forum/post/19047054
> 
> 
> That is a lot of useful info you just gave me. Thanks.
> 
> With the first inquires of my problem with this adapter(thanks Athlon646464) I decieded to re-connect the device to my system. I followed the steps again and inserted a disk and got a picture that eventually I was able to see in 3D.
> 
> Maybe I am unsure how this device works and hopefully you can enlighten me. When I plug in a Blu-ray player or PS3 into the TV from the 3DC-1000 should I see the menus of the system? I have seen the picture in 3D on the Sony BDP-S570 only when the movie was inserted and started. I never was able to see the menu. Is this normal?
> 
> I will try with the above steps for me PS3 next. Thanks for all the help.



Glad I could help










Yeah, all 2D content can also been viewed while connected to the adapter. So yes, you should be able to see any available menus. If you don't see the menu, try changing the INPUT on the TV to another HDMI device then back to the input with the adapter. When viewing in 3D just make sure that FX Gaming is [ON] and when viewing 2D content that FX Gaming is [OFF]. Reason for this is the more than obvious color/brightness changes in the 3D (FX Gaming) mode, but the display should still show a picture regardless of 2D or 3D, FX Gaming on or off. It just won't look right if something is wrong.


Make sure also that the adapter is powered on regardless of which format you are viewing. It should power on automatically though. Sometimes the adapter will not automatically change to the proper 3D format, but this will be more than obvious and you can select the correct one with the remote or from the adapter.


As I noted, the adapter and our 833 model TVs don't seem to always communicate properly, hence the need to change the INPUT on the TV often after having turned the PS3 on, or changing between 2D and 3D content. I can only hope Mitsubishi will release some kind of firmware fix for this issue, but I'm not holding my breath. I have a hard time making a big deal of it though since the 3D does work (and really well I think!). Just glad I figured out how to get it working as I was considering throwing it out a window or two!










Much better experience with all this than my first Mitsubishi TV 15 years ago... Turned itself on, turned itself off, changed channels whenever it wanted, changed the volume whenever it wanted, even changed inputs now and then. I swore to never own another Mitsubishi TV after that... Glad I changed my mind and bought my 833 3 years ago! Otherwise I wouldn't be enjoying 3D










Er, anyway, hope you get the PS3 up and working through the adapter. It's sort of a nightmare until you get the hang of it.


----------



## div3r5ity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scubawoman* /forum/post/19047130
> 
> 
> Sorry for the mistake, I've been hooking up with switchers and splitters for all this 3D stuff and got them mixed when trying to help you out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use the Octava for my dvrs to my avr as I needed more HDMI inputs. The monospot splitter is what I use to split 1 dvr into 2 outputs so 1 goes to the avr, the other to the 3dc1000. I haven't had any problem with any of them working as they are supposed to for 3D. Here is the link for that one
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/se...=4921&x=22&y=2



i c but the thing is , i also have to run my ps3 through that adapter too, thats why i got this receiver(onkyo tx-sr608) cuz the 3dc adapter has only one hmdi input, if i got this item i would still have to unplug the cord coming from the splitter and plug the ps3 in , so i have to figure out a way to make an extra input for the 3dc right?


----------



## Scubawoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *div3r5ity* /forum/post/19047198
> 
> 
> i c but the thing is , i also have to run my ps3 through that adapter too, thats why i got this receiver(onkyo tx-sr608) cuz the 3dc adapter has only one hmdi input, if i got this item i would still have to unplug the cord coming from the splitter and plug the ps3 in , so i have to figure out a way to make an extra input for the 3dc right?



Then you would need to use a switcher before the adapter, the 3x1 would be enough. I am waiting for mine to get here. I assume it will work as it is 3D compatible and should just be pass through but I won't know for sure till I get it and hook it up.


----------



## div3r5ity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scubawoman* /forum/post/19047514
> 
> 
> Then you would need to use a switcher before the adapter, the 3x1 would be enough. I am waiting for mine to get here. I assume it will work as it is 3D compatible and should just be pass through but I won't know for sure till I get it and hook it up.



yeah i think i got it, i would have to get 2 splitters(1 for cablebox and 1 for ps3) and then the 3x1 switcher before the adapter. man thats alot of work and cables for that matter. when will yours be hooked up ??


----------



## Scubawoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *div3r5ity* /forum/post/19048351
> 
> 
> yeah i think i got it, i would have to get 2 splitters(1 for cablebox and 1 for ps3) and then the 3x1 switcher before the adapter. man thats alot of work and cables for that matter. when will yours be hooked up ??



I should hopefully have the 3x1 switcher by the end of this coming week but it isn't being shipped till Monday. Whenever I do get it I will try to hook it up the day I receive it if I have time as I'd like to have it done once and for all.


----------



## div3r5ity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scubawoman* /forum/post/19048579
> 
> 
> I should hopefully have the 3x1 switcher by the end of this coming week but it isn't being shipped till Monday. Whenever I do get it I will try to hook it up the day I receive it if I have time as I'd like to have it done once and for all.



yeah let me know, now with the splitter will it send signal to both out puts simultaneously of will i be able to choose output 1 or 2 only?


----------



## Scubawoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *div3r5ity* /forum/post/19048883
> 
> 
> yeah let me know, now with the splitter will it send signal to both out puts simultaneously of will i be able to choose output 1 or 2 only?



Will do. The monospot splitter does send out simultaneously. I do have that in my setup already so I can confirm that for you. With the switch you have to chose.


----------



## khee mao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bdhart* /forum/post/19045454
> 
> 
> I have heard that the 608 and 508 will not pass through the 3-D content. Has anyone been able to get the 608 to work with 3-D? What receivers are you using that actually work with the 3-D?



I'm running an Onkyo HT-RC260 (non THX 608) and it's been passing PS3, Xbox, and Blu-Ray, just fine in 3D. my cable company sucks (no 3D) and I can't get DTV, but I've heard of DTV issues.


----------



## div3r5ity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *khee mao* /forum/post/19049046
> 
> 
> I'm running an Onkyo HT-RC260 (non THX 608) and it's been passing PS3, Xbox, and Blu-Ray, just fine in 3D. my cable company sucks (no 3D) and I can't get DTV, but I've heard of DTV issues.



yeah it passes through fine on my ps3 also, its something with cox cablebox through the receiver to the adapter lies the problem


----------



## Natrix1973

I got my kit the other day and am having some issues with my 73833 set. I don't know if it is the adapter or the TV causing the issues. The TV firmware version in 9.01 so I am going to try get a firmware update from Mitsubishi to see if that helps.


If I run Directv directly to the adapter to the TV, it works intermittently. I can get the 3-D channel but if I turn to another channel it is like the adapter or TV lose the signal and I get the blue screen. If I have the 3-D channel running and leave it on but turn the TV off, when I turn the TV back on I get no signal. Both issues are solved by resetting the Directv receiver. As soon as the receiver resets, the adapter passes the normal signal and I can see all the receiver reboot screens.


I have monkeyed around with my PS3 and no matter what I do, I can not get a signal to pass through to the TV. I hooked the PS3 direct to the TV and scanned available resolutions before hooking up to the adapter. When I turn the PS3 on, the adapter powers up but I still get the blue screen after the screen turns black when the signal usually kicks on. I have tried leaving everything on and changing inputs and it still won't work.


----------



## ffactoryxx

The GF just got back from Frys with my $249 Mitsubishi Starter Pack










Now just to sell the Disney Blu-Ray on ebay for $50+ and bring my cost down.


----------



## div3r5ity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Natrix1973* /forum/post/19049355
> 
> 
> I got my kit the other day and am having some issues with my 73833 set. I don't know if it is the adapter or the TV causing the issues. The TV firmware version in 9.01 so I am going to try get a firmware update from Mitsubishi to see if that helps.
> 
> 
> If I run Directv directly to the adapter to the TV, it works intermittently. I can get the 3-D channel but if I turn to another channel it is like the adapter or TV lose the signal and I get the blue screen. If I have the 3-D channel running and leave it on but turn the TV off, when I turn the TV back on I get no signal. Both issues are solved by resetting the Directv receiver. As soon as the receiver resets, the adapter passes the normal signal and I can see all the receiver reboot screens.
> 
> 
> I have monkeyed around with my PS3 and no matter what I do, I can not get a signal to pass through to the TV. I hooked the PS3 direct to the TV and scanned available resolutions before hooking up to the adapter. When I turn the PS3 on, the adapter powers up but I still get the blue screen after the screen turns black when the signal usually kicks on. I have tried leaving everything on and changing inputs and it still won't work.



that is a known issues with directtv boxes if u search u'll finf some info on it, i ran into trying to find my solution. i think i read on that tv u got to put it on game, i think


----------



## div3r5ity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ffactoryxx* /forum/post/19049357
> 
> 
> The GF just got back from Frys with my $249 Mitsubishi Starter Pack
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just to sell the Disney Blu-Ray on ebay for $50+ and bring my cost down.



lucky bastard! i had to pay $399


----------



## ffactoryxx

So WTF, I was reading that there are almost zero 3D Blue Ray movies out. What are you guys watching if thats the case?


Does this pack convert a 2d film to 3d? How does that look. Any info would help.


----------



## div3r5ity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ffactoryxx* /forum/post/19049448
> 
> 
> So WTF, I was reading that there are almost zero 3D Blue Ray movies out. What are you guys watching if thats the case?
> 
> 
> Does this pack convert a 2d film to 3d? How does that look. Any info would help.



i did watch the masters for a lil bit and playing 3d games but im trying to get everything set up and ready for 3d land hahaha


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ffactoryxx* /forum/post/19049448
> 
> 
> So WTF, I was reading that there are almost zero 3D Blue Ray movies out. What are you guys watching if thats the case?
> 
> 
> Does this pack convert a 2d film to 3d? How does that look. Any info would help.



No.


What it does is convert non-compatible 3D formats to a format your Mitsubishi TV can use.


You need to feed it 3D content form your cable/sat provider, BD player, PS3 etc.


----------



## ffactoryxx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Athlon646464* /forum/post/19049526
> 
> 
> No.
> 
> 
> What it does is convert non-compatible 3D formats to a format your Mitsubishi TV can use.
> 
> 
> You need to feed it 3D content form your cable/sat provider, BD player, PS3 etc.



Thanks. I understand the conversion of formats to checkerboard that the adapter does.


Maybe that was the wrong question.


Basically if 3d movies are very limited at this time, what format are the movies they are playing in Best Buy, 6th AVE, etc.


I was in Best Buy and they were demoing Avatar in 3d on some super expensive 5K tv.


If the 3d version isn't out yet, what was i watching?


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ffactoryxx* /forum/post/19049707
> 
> 
> Thanks. I understand the conversion of formats to checkerboard that the adapter does.
> 
> 
> Maybe that was the wrong question.
> 
> 
> Basically if 3d movies are very limited at this time, what format are the movies they are playing in Best Buy, 6th AVE, etc.
> 
> 
> I was in Best Buy and they were demoing Avatar in 3d on some super expensive 5K tv.
> 
> 
> If the 3d version isn't out yet, what was i watching?



Not sure - maybe a clip or trailer BB has? BTW - didn't your kit come with a demo disc?


----------



## ffactoryxx

No they had the Blu-Ray movie in and we were watching it in 2D. The guy gave me glasses, went into the TV control panal and switched some setting to 3d thus making Avatar in 3d.


----------



## ffactoryxx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Athlon646464* /forum/post/19049724
> 
> 
> Not sure - maybe a clip or trailer BB has? BTW - didn't your kit come with a demo disc?



My kit won't be here until tomorrow. My GF is away on a trip and just so happened to be where a Frys was, picked it up and is coming back tomorrow.


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ffactoryxx* /forum/post/19049732
> 
> 
> No they had the Blu-Ray movie in and we were watching it in 2D. The guy gave me glasses, went into the TV control panal and switched some setting to 3d thus making Avatar in 3d.



3D BD discs will play in 2D on a non-3D player.


Don't know what you were seeing. What did you have for lunch?


----------



## walford




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ffactoryxx* /forum/post/19049732
> 
> 
> No they had the Blu-Ray movie in and we were watching it in 2D. The guy gave me glasses, went into the TV control panal and switched some setting to 3d thus making Avatar in 3d.



The 2D to Faux 3D conversion available in the Samsung 3D TVs is a poor subsitute for the true 3D Avatar Film.


----------



## ffactoryxx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Athlon646464* /forum/post/19049772
> 
> 
> 3D BD discs will play in 2D on a non-3D player.
> 
> 
> Don't know what you were seeing. What did you have for lunch?



No, I know what I was watching.


It was on some Samsung or Panasonic 3D TV BB had.


Basically he changed some setting to like Simulated 3D which make the 2D image 3D.


----------



## ffactoryxx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19049783
> 
> 
> The 2D to Faux 3D conversion available in the Samsung 3D TVs is a poor subsitute for the true 3D Avatar Film.



Thanks. I thought it looked pretty good. When he said this isn't the True 3D version, I thought wow, it gets better.


Can any other TV's other than the Samsung do this?


----------



## Zapix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Natrix1973* /forum/post/19049355
> 
> 
> I got my kit the other day and am having some issues with my 73833 set. I don't know if it is the adapter or the TV causing the issues. The TV firmware version in 9.01 so I am going to try get a firmware update from Mitsubishi to see if that helps.
> 
> 
> If I run Directv directly to the adapter to the TV, it works intermittently. I can get the 3-D channel but if I turn to another channel it is like the adapter or TV lose the signal and I get the blue screen. If I have the 3-D channel running and leave it on but turn the TV off, when I turn the TV back on I get no signal. Both issues are solved by resetting the Directv receiver. As soon as the receiver resets, the adapter passes the normal signal and I can see all the receiver reboot screens. It's not a matter of
> 
> 
> I have monkeyed around with my PS3 and no matter what I do, I can not get a signal to pass through to the TV. I hooked the PS3 direct to the TV and scanned available resolutions before hooking up to the adapter. When I turn the PS3 on, the adapter powers up but I still get the blue screen after the screen turns black when the signal usually kicks on. I have tried leaving everything on and changing inputs and it still won't work.



It's a problem with the 833 models (regardless of the source. Cable, xbox, ps3, etc). If you go back to page 47, somewhere on there I made a mega post about getting the 833 to work. Unless Mitsubishi finds a way to fix it and release a firmware update, the only real way to get it to work is change the HDMI input on the TV to one that the 3D adapter isn't connected to, then switch back. It doesn't seem to matter what HDMI inputs you use, just make sure you have one connected to the adapter and another one you can switch to so you can switch back to the one with the adapter to get the display to return. Changing to non HDMI inputs have never worked for me. You will have to do this when you turn the PS3 on and change between 2D and 3D content. Unless there are 833 users out there not speaking up, every 833 user I've seen here has the same problem with the blue screen.


----------



## Natrix1973




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zapix* /forum/post/19049834
> 
> 
> It's a problem with the 833 models (regardless of the source. Cable, xbox, ps3, etc). If you go back to page 47, somewhere on there I made a mega post about getting the 833 to work. Unless Mitsubishi finds a way to fix it and release a firmware update, the only real way to get it to work is change the HDMI input on the TV to one that the 3D adapter isn't connected to, then switch back. It doesn't seem to matter what HDMI inputs you use, just make sure you have one connected to the adapter and another one you can switch to so you can switch back to the one with the adapter to get the display to return. Changing to non HDMI inputs have never worked for me. You will have to do this when you turn the PS3 on and change between 2D and 3D content. Unless there are 833 users out there not speaking up, every 833 user I've seen here has the same problem with the blue screen.



I read that earlier and tried all of that before I made my post. Nothing made a difference with the PS3.


----------



## Zapix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Natrix1973* /forum/post/19049985
> 
> 
> I read that earlier and tried all of that before I made my post. Nothing made a difference with the PS3.



I would say check the cable, but that would only matter for 3D content.


If you're willing to reset the PS3 settings, hook the PS3 up to the adapter, turn the PS3 on, then hold your finger on the I/O sensor for a few second until it beeps (confirming the PS3 settings have be reset to default). This was how I initially got the PS3 working at all with the adapter.


Another thing you can attempt which worked a few times before I started changing the input on the TV (and was very close to sure the adapter was broken) was letting it all stay on for a few minutes. Usually before the TV would give the auto power off warning the PS3 XMB menu would show. Only worked a few times though.


----------



## walford

If the cable handles HD content then it will handle 3D content. See:

http://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/tra..._logo_pub.aspx


----------



## Natrix1973

Well I tried resetting the PS3 video settings, letting it sit and also switching between HDMI inputs and I still can't get a picture out of the adapter with the PS3. PS3 has the latest firmware update


----------



## Muckrak3r

Okay I know I griefed some of you guys for ranting about not getting this adapter when the retailers originally promised and wondered what the big deal was. I decided to dive in on the Fry's $239 deal. HOLY CRAP. I only have a PS3 so I can't watch 3-D blu-rays yet, but the 3-D game demo's on the PSN, are so much cooler than I expected. I will actually be buying the full version of Pacific Rift, and Super Stardust. Those games looks so 3-D and are so much more fun in 3-D than simply 1080p. I could not stop laughing and smiling at how great it looks.


I had no troubles at all getting my PS3 to see my tv as 3-D. I just hooked it up directly to the adapter, and then from there to my 73" C9 in hdmi2, and then I ran the automatic video detection and it saw my tv as 3-D and gives me the 3-D option in all those games. Now, hopefully, when I have it running through my AVR, it will still see the tv as 3-D. That would make my life easier. And I hope Dish Network goes 3-D soon because I want to see some golf and baseball in 3-D this year!!!!!


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Muckrak3r* /forum/post/19050580
> 
> 
> I hope Dish Network goes 3-D soon because I want to see some golf and baseball in 3-D this year!!!!!



That would be nice If Dish added 3D...


----------



## GordonP.

Ok, I've read back about the last 30 days on this thread, and it appears your experiences with mitsubishi 3d are pretty mixed. I am looking for feedback from those who have a 2009 model (mine specifically is a C9 series). I will be running the adapter directly from a PS3 and comcast DVR (switching them manually).


First I am concerned about the greenish/black issue. Has that been a major problem with 2009 owners, and is it something that would discourage you from watching tv or playing ps3 games in 3d? Does is merely lessen the viewing experience, or kill it altogether?


Second, are those who are having problems with PS3's connecting the adapter directly through the PS3, or are you connecting through an AVR?


And finally, are comcast customers experiencing the same problems that DirectTV customers are having? It seems that there really haven't been any complaints from comcast subscribers in getting the 3D to setup.


Thanks, I'd really appreciate any opinions you could share.


----------



## Zapix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GordonP.* /forum/post/19050705
> 
> 
> And finally, are comcast customers experiencing the same problems that DirectTV customers are having? It seems that there really haven't been any complaints from comcast subscribers in getting the 3D to setup.



Probably because 3D support from Comcast right now is limited, and not everyone has it (I personally only get 20 HD channels, about 1/2 of them are local channels). So Comcast really isn't thought of alot when talking about 3DTV I don't think.


As it stands, there's no 3D from Comcast where I am, however the World Cup is available on Demand. I had ESPN 3D on Demand for a few days (then it vanished and Comcast told me no such thing ever existed) and was able to watch X Games Day 1 in 3D. BTW, Comcast's 3D FAQ claims there's no 3D content available on demand. Seeing as how the World Cup in 3D has been and still is there, it seems to me that Comcast doesn't even know what Comcast is doing.


Personally I haven't had any issues with changing through 2D channels. Using on demand to access the world cup I ran into the problem my 2007 833 model tends to have, but when I was viewing the x games, not once did I have a problem changing between 2D and 3D content.


Also keep in mind that Comcast (unlike Direct TV) uses many different cable boxes, and it's different per area. So the experience with the cable box and adapter will certainly matter based on where a person is located. In this area we get Scientific Atlanta boxes. I'm using an 8300HD (worthless), which is the best Comcast offers us.


----------



## sfetaz

Ok so i got my 3d adapter setup today with my PS3 and 65737 mitsubishi. I can get the PS3 to detect the 3d TV if everything is connected directly to the adapter. However I cannot get it to recognize it when connected to my Sony DH800 receiver. Is there someway to get the 3d signal to work thru the receiver, or a cheap HDMI splitter I can use to connect the the ps3 to the adapter and that to a 2nd output on my TV for use when watching 3d?


Also are there any planned 3d baseball games coming up, or is there a place to download Yankees vs. Mariners in 3d?


----------



## dreaux




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfetaz* /forum/post/19050895
> 
> 
> Ok so i got my 3d adapter setup today with my PS3 and 65737 mitsubishi. I can get the PS3 to detect the 3d TV if everything is connected directly to the adapter. However I cannot get it to recognize it when connected to my Sony DH800 receiver. Is there someway to get the 3d signal to work thru the receiver, or a cheap HDMI splitter I can use to connect the the ps3 to the adapter and that to a 2nd output on my TV for use when watching 3d?
> 
> 
> Also are there any planned 3d baseball games coming up, or is there a place to download Yankees vs. Mariners in 3d?



The Sony DH800 is not a 3D ready 1.4 receiver.


----------



## walford

Your receiver is not passing the EDID data for the adapter to your PS3. It is supplying it's own EDID data so your PS3 does know it can output checkerboard 3D content to it.


----------



## mstarks3d

Hi

In answer to many comments here re the Mits/Samsung 3D adapters and glasses we will start selling this week our new Model S Mitsubishi/Samsung compatible glasses for $79 from our page 3dtv.jp and on Amazon and Ebay. They have a polarity reversal switch and will work with all 2010 model Samsung LED tv's and with the Mitsubishi 3D adapter kits for the Mits/Samsung 3D Ready DLP TV's. In about a month or two our Universal Emitter for all 3D Ready DLP TV's (and Samsung 3D Ready Plasmas) will incorporate the Samsung, Sony, and Panasonic Protocols permitting use of any of these glasses (but only one kind at a time until our Multiprotocol Model E glasses appear) with any TV (or 3D Ready DLP Projectors, or Quadro card or the omnipresent X3D/IO/ED/3DTV black PC dongle etc). Our Emitters also have a polarity reversal switch permitting users to change the polarity of any of the IR glasses while not altering the polarity of DLP Link glasses (such as the XpanD X102's) being used simultaneously. Of course our kits with our Model X glasses are still by far the least expensive. Please see the extensive documentation on our page (the 94p article on 3D at NAB is a May 2010 freezeframe on the state of the 3D video art) and yes the faq will be updated again in a few days. Regards Michael Starks President 3DTV Corp


----------



## khee mao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GordonP.* /forum/post/19050705
> 
> 
> First I am concerned about the greenish/black issue. Has that been a major problem with 2009 owners, and is it something that would discourage you from watching tv or playing ps3 games in 3d? Does is merely lessen the viewing experience, or kill it altogether?



not sure what settings other people are running at, but the whole green/black issue is totally overblown, imho. movies and games look fantastic. the brightness and tint changes on the display are to compensate for the glasses, which are themselves tinted and by their nature block light. once everything is synched and running, the picture is great.


there are a couple scenes from A Christmas Carol on the demo disc that should make a believer out of anyone. the first is a carriage running down a dark cobblestone street. looks fantastic. another is ol' Ebeneezer flying through a snowy forest. deep darks from the first and bright whites from the latter are presented with no perceptable color bias.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GordonP.* /forum/post/19050705
> 
> 
> Second, are those who are having problems with PS3's connecting the adapter directly through the PS3, or are you connecting through an AVR?



I'm able to run my PS3 through an Onkyo RC260 to my C9 with no issues.


----------



## khee mao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Muckrak3r* /forum/post/19050580
> 
> 
> Super Stardust



yeah! this game has insane 3D!


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *khee mao* /forum/post/19052784
> 
> 
> ... the whole green/black issue is totally overblown, imho. movies and games look fantastic. the brightness and tint changes on the display are to compensate for the glasses, which are themselves tinted ...



If that were the case, everyone would be seeing the same tint. To me it seems fairly obvious that the issue is caused by the DLP link flashes, and not all the displays are creating them the same.


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/19052814
> 
> 
> If that were the case, everyone would be seeing the same tint. To me it seems fairly obvious that the issue is caused by the DLP link flashes, and not all the displays are creating them the same.



But the color is teal; DLP linc flashes are supposed to be white--that would lighten, but not change, colors.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmalter0* /forum/post/19052946
> 
> 
> But the color is teal



Not on mine. I simply have poor black levels (or grey instead of teal). Others describe their as being green rather than blue-green.


> Quote:
> DLP linc flashes are supposed to be white



And mine appears to be. Others apparently is not. The only ones who seem to be able to escape the issue are those with 2010 models which apparently have the option to turn off DLP link.


----------



## hoddy4

Do the Mitsubishi 3D glasses and emitter work with the new Samsung plasmas and LCDx?


----------



## dagameballa

I talked to a fry's mitsubishi tv salesman today..the price on the starter kit is a promotional sale that is good until the 21st..he told me the store here by me..portland oregon..had 10 kits and one person bought all 10...he then told me that the renton washington store had 10 and they sold all 10 to one person..as the person was at the renton store..he wanted to purchase more..so the renton store called the portland store and asked if they would ship the renton store thier 10.. they said no..it was 3 hours later that the man from renton showed up in the wilsonville store and bought thier ten..THE SAME GUY...now i missed out...that really sux..obviously some one or another store is reallu trying to profit from this great price...so the people that actually want to use the kit misses out... i wish fry's had done a 1 per customer sale..hopefully the ones like me that dont have a kit yet can still get one hoping that fry's will get more in before the 21st......


----------



## Daniel Murray

People with poor black levels and green rather than blue-green how old is your lamps?


----------



## dagameballa

Also..I wanted to Let the people out there like me who have not seen these mitsu dlp's display 3d yet that the same salesperson I was talking to..I straight up asked him while I was on the phone with him." Without being biased or anything..just give me your 100 percent honest opinion on the 3d of these sets". He said.."well I can tell you I am a samsung fan, but in all honesty the panasonic is the best 3d quality tv out, but as far as mitsu, sony and samsung go. The quality of those sets is so close 3d wise..theres no one you could pick above the other 2..they all look amazing..and are all not as good as the panasonic, but very close, the 3d we have on display on an 82" mitsu dlp is very good, you will be really surprised". That got me even more excited to get the kit!!! Just thought I'd share what i was told..


----------



## sfetaz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dreaux* /forum/post/19051440
> 
> 
> The Sony DH800 is not a 3D ready 1.4 receiver.



Is there a way to split the signal from the PS3 to both the adapter and the receiver, so that at the same time I can watch 3d content and have surround sound? Is there anyway without a 3d ready receiver to still get sound to the receiver and 3d direct to the adapter at the same time?


EDIT - Would this product be sufficiant enough for my request, plus support HD Audio?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 


Or do I need to spend the extra for 1.3b certified to get 3d plus HD Audio?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2


----------



## Muckrak3r

sfetaz - i'm not an expert on the issue. and I would like the same solution you do. but i seriously don't think those splitters will do the trick. my non 3d receiver won't let the ps3 see my tv as a 3d device when the ps3 is connected to my receiver, then the out hdmi to the adapter, and the out on the adapter to my tv.


i also tried putting the adapter between the ps3 and my receiver, that was even worse. the ps3 wouldn't detect more than a 480p display and the color was SUPER green and nasty looking.


And as for the splitters, i don't believe you can split the video and audio out of the ps3 and send each to a different device. i believe those splitters can only split the audio and video at the same time and send both to separate displays. It might possibly work (seriously hope it does) but you might have an audio sync issue???? I would love for an expert to chime in here, as the only 3D signal I get is from ps3 to adapter straight into my c9. I don't want to (and won't get approval) buy another receiver.


----------



## Natrix1973

Well I still can not get any picture out of my PS3 to the 73833 and I have monkeyed around with it all night. I switched the HDMI cable from the Directv box which works with the adapter and that doesn't work. I messed around with resetting the video settings then going through the adapter and nothing. I tried switching between HDMI inputs and nothing.


Guess I will need to call Mits support tomorrow.


----------



## steelers1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Natrix1973* /forum/post/19054316
> 
> 
> Well I still can not get any picture out of my PS3 to the 73833 and I have monkeyed around with it all night. I switched the HDMI cable from the Directv box which works with the adapter and that doesn't work. I messed around with resetting the video settings then going through the adapter and nothing. I tried switching between HDMI inputs and nothing.
> 
> 
> Guess I will need to call Mits support tomorrow.



when you get it going let us no what you did to get it going. thanks.


----------



## Natrix1973




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steelers1* /forum/post/19054375
> 
> 
> when you get it going let us no what you did to get it going. thanks.



I just figured it out.


I went into the Video Settings and changed a bunch of stuff so I don't know exactly which setting it was yet but here is everything I changed. I might play around with the settings tomorrow though to find out which setting/s were messing up the connection.


RGB Full Range from Full to Limited

Super White from On to Off

Deep Color from On to Off


After switching those settings and then plugging the HDMI into the adapter, I got video right away.


It really shouldn't be so difficult! Time to try some games!


Now I just need to figure out why I have to keep resetting my Directv box when I lose sync from switching channels.


----------



## Natrix1973

Maybe I spoke too soon, tried to start up Motorstorm and it lost sync again and wouldn't come back on. Tried restarting everything and I can't get a picture again.


----------



## Natrix1973

Think I am making progress. I think I have a defective adapter. Anytime there is a resolution switch, I lose sync and can not get audio or video. If I unplug the HDMI input to the adapter and plug it back in, it seems to sync up right away again.


----------



## Zapix

Yeah, as I said, the PS3 in particular is a nightmare with the 833. Once you get the hang of what to do, you can make it work, despite having to jump through hoops. I lose video anytime I load a game or change sources on the PS3. Only way I can fix it is change to the HDMI my xbox or normally use for the PS3 is on, then back to the PS3-adapter. Turning on/off the adapter hasn't worked, unplugging/replugging the HDMI cord hasn't worked, etc. You found a way to make it work though, which is good. Otherwise, I think it's a problem with the 833, not the adapters or PS3. Glad to see you figured out a method to get it going. Hopefully it will get easier. I doubt Mits will have much to say, but as a fellow 833 owner, I wish you luck.


----------



## lurkor

Zapix is your PS3 an older fatty or a slim? Your mention of a blue screen between signal swaps has me wondering. I've tried your advice over and over with a slim with no luck. The best I've been able to acheive is restoring picture by switching input names from Game to PC, but even then it fails during PS3 display detection. I'm hoping either a TV or PS3 firmware update sorts this out, because it's a bit ridiculous, and I'm about ready to throw in the towel.


----------



## dreaux




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Muckrak3r* /forum/post/19054131
> 
> 
> sfetaz - i'm not an expert on the issue. and I would like the same solution you do. but i seriously don't think those splitters will do the trick. my non 3d receiver won't let the ps3 see my tv as a 3d device when the ps3 is connected to my receiver, then the out hdmi to the adapter, and the out on the adapter to my tv.
> 
> 
> i also tried putting the adapter between the ps3 and my receiver, that was even worse. the ps3 wouldn't detect more than a 480p display and the color was SUPER green and nasty looking.
> 
> 
> And as for the splitters, i don't believe you can split the video and audio out of the ps3 and send each to a different device. i believe those splitters can only split the audio and video at the same time and send both to separate displays. It might possibly work (seriously hope it does) but you might have an audio sync issue???? I would love for an expert to chime in here, as the only 3D signal I get is from ps3 to adapter straight into my c9. I don't want to (and won't get approval) buy another receiver.



Instead of buying splitters and switchers and trying this and that you may want to bite the bullet and sell your old receiver on ebay and buy a 3D ready 1.4 receiver. A bunch of manufacturers a making them and they have really come down in price. I loved my older receiver and hated to get rid of it but 3D was very hit and miss using D* and bluray 3D. It would pop in and out and often lock up my screen..or I would get error messages. D* would tell me I don't have a 3D set etc.

I finally gave up and admitted this 3D stuff can get expensive. I bought a 3D ready 1.4 receiver and now everything is happy and very smooth transition from 3D and back. For some reason even my PQ improved with the newer receiver because it had a better video processor.

Have not heard of a workaround that really works with a 1.3 receiver, unless you have one of the newer ones that can do a total pass through. I never tried going direct because I want to use my receiver as a switcher so that I only have one HDMI going to the set.

I figured it would be a pain having separate setups. I also made sure my HDMI cables were high speed.


----------



## ctaylor52

Hello everyone, I am new to this site/thread and I wanted to post about the unique issue that I am having with my setup. I am currently running:


TV: 73C9

AV: Sony STR-DN1010 (1.4) w/ the 3DA-1 adapter and PS3.


I have the cables from my Xbox 360 and PS3 running through my receiver, and then the adapter between my receiver and the TV. I am pleased that I have gotten the 3D to work with the PS3; however my issue lies with the difference in contrast the adapter makes. I am not talking about the difference in contrast while in 3D mode. Both the Xbox and PS3's signals look noticeably worse while going through the adapter (3D mode OFF). I did several tests to determine that it was in fact the adapter causing my blacks to be a muddy grey color; because as soon as I take the adapter out of the equation (no settings changed on TV) the picture returns to its former glory.


My question is whether or not anyone else is experiencing this issue, and if so, what can be done to alleviate it. I appreciate any constructive feedback. Thank you.


----------



## TViewer2000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ctaylor52* /forum/post/19055519
> 
> 
> Hello everyone, I am new to this site/thread and I wanted to post about the unique issue that I am having with my setup. I am currently running:
> 
> 
> TV: 73C9
> 
> AV: Sony STR-DN1010 (1.4) w/ the 3DA-1 adapter and PS3.
> 
> 
> I have the cables from my Xbox 360 and PS3 running through my receiver, and then the adapter between my receiver and the TV. I am pleased that I have gotten the 3D to work with the PS3; however my issue lies with the difference in contrast the adapter makes. I am not talking about the difference in contrast while in 3D mode. Both the Xbox and PS3's signals look noticeably worse while going through the adapter (3D mode OFF). I did several tests to determine that it was in fact the adapter causing my blacks to be a muddy grey color; because as soon as I take the adapter out of the equation (no settings changed on TV) the picture returns to its former glory.
> 
> 
> My question is whether or not anyone else is experiencing this issue, and if so, what can be done to alleviate it. I appreciate any constructive feedback. Thank you.




Yea I noticed the picture being a little off with the adapter in line. I think that adapter still does something to the picture even when the 3D is not activated. It is probably checking the video signal for the 3D tag. Another theory but I don't know if this is possible, true, or if it can be tested is that any signal that comes into the adapter automatically gets converted to checkerboard format regardless if it is 3D or not. Thus that is causing the picture to be different. Again only theory and no way of testing (that I know of). All I know is when that adapter is turned off, no picture is being passed to the TV.


----------



## ctaylor52




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TViewer2000* /forum/post/19055638
> 
> 
> Yea I noticed the picture being a little off with the adapter in line. I think that adapter still does something to the picture even when the 3D is not activated. It is probably checking the video signal for the 3D tag. Another theory but I don't know if this is possible, true, or if it can be tested is that any signal that comes into the adapter automatically gets converted to checkerboard format regardless if it is 3D or not. Thus that is causing the picture to be different. Again only theory and no way of testing (that I know of). All I know is when that adapter is turned off, no picture is being passed to the TV.



That is a real shame because I have a very picky eye for picture quality, so for me (and my OCD) I guess I will have to by pass the adapter when I'm not using it for 3D. I will keep tinkering with settings/etc, but it isn't looking good.


----------



## div3r5ity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ctaylor52* /forum/post/19055519
> 
> 
> Hello everyone, I am new to this site/thread and I wanted to post about the unique issue that I am having with my setup. I am currently running:
> 
> 
> TV: 73C9
> 
> AV: Sony STR-DN1010 (1.4) w/ the 3DA-1 adapter and PS3.
> 
> 
> I have the cables from my Xbox 360 and PS3 running through my receiver, and then the adapter between my receiver and the TV. I am pleased that I have gotten the 3D to work with the PS3; however my issue lies with the difference in contrast the adapter makes. I am not talking about the difference in contrast while in 3D mode. Both the Xbox and PS3's signals look noticeably worse while going through the adapter (3D mode OFF). I did several tests to determine that it was in fact the adapter causing my blacks to be a muddy grey color; because as soon as I take the adapter out of the equation (no settings changed on TV) the picture returns to its former glory.
> 
> 
> My question is whether or not anyone else is experiencing this issue, and if so, what can be done to alleviate it. I appreciate any constructive feedback. Thank you.



it does make it a lil duller, thats why im goin to buy a hdmi splitter and a switcher


----------



## Lumpy

Since I knew my Onkyo wouldn't switch 3D I got the cheapest HDMI switch I could find (Iogear GHDMIS3 3-Port HDMI Switch).


Everything seems to work fine. Even my PS3 works thru it, although it didn't at first. Not until I plugged in the adapter.


----------



## Zapix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lurkor* /forum/post/19054684
> 
> 
> Zapix is your PS3 an older fatty or a slim? Your mention of a blue screen between signal swaps has me wondering. I've tried your advice over and over with a slim with no luck. The best I've been able to acheive is restoring picture by switching input names from Game to PC, but even then it fails during PS3 display detection. I'm hoping either a TV or PS3 firmware update sorts this out, because it's a bit ridiculous, and I'm about ready to throw in the towel.



the 80gb space heater... (for generating ALOT of heat!). Firmware and all are current. I can't imagine it has anything to do with exactly how I have it setup, but who knows...


Here what I have going in terms of HDMI

_PS3 (3D) -> Adapter -> HDMI-1 (Game)


HDMI cable for use with PS3 in 2D -> HDMI-2 (HD Disc)


Nothing plugged into HDMI 3 or 4_


Turning PS3 on, most of the time I end up with a blue screen. From the remote [INPUT] scroll one over to [HD Disc] and press [ENTER]. Screen loads blue obviously. Reverse steps [INPUT] scroll one back to [Game] and [ENTER]. Probably 9 out of 10 this works on the first try. A couple of times I have been forced to do it 2 or 3 times.


With setting up the display settings on the PS3 (which was a pain) it was seriously luck of the draw. I refuse to even go near those settings anymore. Really too bad Sony made the settings to access 3D so annoying. Would be easier to just have it as a selectable option from the XMB.


----------



## TViewer2000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *div3r5ity* /forum/post/19056008
> 
> 
> it does make it a lil duller, thats why im goin to buy a hdmi splitter and a switcher




For me it seems a little out of focus, and colors a little off. I guess everyone seems something different.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rad* /forum/post/19043714
> 
> 
> AFAIK petitions are against this sites rules.



Petitions via a thread, maybe, but if everyone who has the tint and/or rainbow issue sends a PM to someone, will that be stopped?


If there is no objection to that approach (big brother, are you listening?), then I will create another user account for that purpose.


----------



## khee mao




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/19052814
> 
> 
> If that were the case, everyone would be seeing the same tint. To me it seems fairly obvious that the issue is caused by the DLP link flashes, and not all the displays are creating them the same.



maybe it's fairly obvious to you, but how many of these displays are using the exact same picture mode/contrast/tint/color/brightness/temperature/saturation settings?


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *khee mao* /forum/post/19058604
> 
> 
> maybe it's fairly obvious to you, but how many of these displays are using the exact same picture mode/contrast/tint/color/brightness/temperature/saturation settings?



You don't have to have the exact same settings to notice a color shift. If some are noticing a very blatant color shift, while others are noticing none, that suggests that the two sets are behaving differently. People have posted having more than one set (or a replacement unit), where it was very obvious in one, and non-existent in another. Even Mitsubishi says the color tint will be teal on some sets, and red on the Laservues. If the purpose of the tinting were to compensate for any tinting of the glasses, then the tinting would be consistent between models. YOU may think the issue is overblown, because it's not as present (or present at all) on your set. That doesn't mean the issue doesn't exist for others.


----------



## lurkor

Was finally able to get the 73833 working with 3da-1 and a PS3 slim through input name juggling between PC and Game. You have to be quick on the remote to do this. I managed with 2 seconds left on the acceptance clock, talk about mission impossible. Even though I got it "working" there are still severe handshaking issues, which hopefully will be resolved in the future. It's too broken or half baked for me to recommend to anyone at this point, unless you have a high tolerance for tinkering. The good news is the Nvidia glasses trick appears to work for now. Just a heads up for anyone trying this.


----------



## Cleverland

As far as the green tint on the older Mits tvs this link has some very usefull information on the subject...
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1265214&page=3


----------



## Natrix1973




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lurkor* /forum/post/19059736
> 
> 
> Was finally able to get the 73833 working with 3da-1 and a PS3 slim through input name juggling between PC and Game. You have to be quick on the remote to do this. I managed with 2 seconds left on the acceptance clock, talk about mission impossible. Even though I got it "working" there are still severe handshaking issues, which hopefully will be resolved in the future. It's too broken or half baked for me to recommend to anyone at this point, unless you have a high tolerance for tinkering. The good news is the Nvidia glasses trick appears to work for now. Just a heads up for anyone trying this.



Please call Mits support and let them know if you are having issues with the 833 series and the 3-D kit. I called them the other day to see if my problems are with the adapter or the tv and they are researching my issues with the adapter/73833. They are supposed to contact me within a couple days to see what they can find out.


The more calls they get on the 833 series issues the better chance for a resolution to all of our issues with this combination of equipment.


----------



## dagameballa

Wasn't sure if anyone knew about this deal. Came across it and thought I'd share!!!
http://www.eastcoasttvs.com/index.ph...ay-disc-1.html


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dagameballa* /forum/post/19062605
> 
> 
> Wasn't sure if anyone knew about this deal. Came across it and thought I'd share!!!
> http://www.eastcoasttvs.com/index.ph...ay-disc-1.html



thanks. be sure and use the PAYCHECK discount code to save a few extra bucks.


----------



## PaulGo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dagameballa* /forum/post/19062605
> 
> 
> Wasn't sure if anyone knew about this deal. Came across it and thought I'd share!!!
> http://www.eastcoasttvs.com/index.ph...ay-disc-1.html



Except the kit glasses are not compatible with DLP sets.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulGo* /forum/post/19063289
> 
> 
> Except the kit glasses are not compatible with DLP sets.



What is your source of this information? Not compatible with DLP link, but should be compatible with the emitter from the Mits kit.


----------



## Mounta1n




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulGo* /forum/post/19063289
> 
> 
> Except the kit glasses are not compatible with DLP sets.



I figured you would just need the emitter? You mean the glasses won't work with a DLP set?


----------



## Troggie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mounta1n* /forum/post/19063417
> 
> 
> I figured you would just need the emitter? You mean the glasses won't work with a DLP set?



The glasses work with DLP sets as long as you have an emitter. So, if you purchased the 3DC-1000 starter pack, you can safely purchase the Samsung pack that comes with 2 pairs of glasses and a movie, and expect all 4 pairs of glasses to work at the same time (not have to switch 3D mode to reverse).


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Troggie* /forum/post/19063450
> 
> 
> The glasses work with DLP sets as long as you have an emitter. So, if you purchased the 3DC-1000 starter pack, you can safely purchase the Samsung pack that comes with 2 pairs of glasses and a movie, and expect all 4 pairs of glasses to work at the same time (not have to switch 3D mode to reverse).



Correct.


----------



## Zapix

Lurkor, glad to hear you got it going. Hopefully the update next month will do something, but I doubt it. I don't imagine Sony will be doing anything with their firmware to make work better with Mitsubishi DLP TVs. Probably just say "That's not a real 3D TV, you need to buy a Sony 3DTV for it to work properly."







Mitsubishi on the otherhand I think could do something, but if they will or won't is really up in the air I think as they made no promises as to what will work and not work.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Natrix1973* /forum/post/19062582
> 
> 
> The more calls they get on the 833 series issues the better chance for a resolution to all of our issues with this combination of equipment.



Absolutely true. I'm hoping for a nice firmware update to resolve it.

That or a new 82" as a gift from them to replace my 73" and I'll call it even.


----------



## walford

I don't think the 833s have any firmware or software controlled frunctiions so there is no way Mits can upgrade the 833 sets them selves.


----------



## john stephens




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Troggie* /forum/post/19063450
> 
> 
> The glasses work with DLP sets as long as you have an emitter. So, if you purchased the 3DC-1000 starter pack, you can safely purchase the Samsung pack that comes with 2 pairs of glasses and a movie, and expect all 4 pairs of glasses to work at the same time (not have to switch 3D mode to reverse).



I can attest to this since I have both Samsung and Mitsubishi glasses with Samsung Led 8000 and Mitsubishi Laservue DLP TV. Both sets of glasses work with either TV.


----------



## Daniel Murray

Has any on tried the 3D kit on 835 model? If so how was it?


----------



## rsnyder005

[]Has any on tried the 3D kit on 835 model? If so how was it?]


I have and directv 3D works fine-have not used any other source.


----------



## Daniel Murray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsnyder005* /forum/post/19064518
> 
> 
> []Has any on tried the 3D kit on 835 model? If so how was it?]
> 
> 
> I have and directv 3D works fine-have not used any other source.



Do you know if all three rear HDMI ports can pass 3D on the 835?


----------



## Spektre99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lumpy* /forum/post/19056409
> 
> 
> Since I knew my Onkyo wouldn't switch 3D I got the cheapest HDMI switch I could find (Iogear GHDMIS3 3-Port HDMI Switch).
> 
> 
> Everything seems to work fine. Even my PS3 works thru it, although it didn't at first. Not until I plugged in the adapter.



Which Onkyo do you have. I am hoping my 506 passes 3D as spec'd.


----------



## sfetaz

i am having a handshake issue with my Verizon Fios TV box and the 3DA1 Adapter. I just purchased a new Denon 1611 AVR which supports 3d. I have connected my PS3, my PC and my FIOS TV box to my new receiver. I have outputed from the receiver into the 3da1 adapter. From there I output to my Mitsubishi 65737. PS3 and PC work fine in this setup, but my fios box shows a screen that says "HDMI Content Protection thru HDMI Repeater has been comprimised." When I take the 3d adapter out of the setup and output the receiver to the Tv direct the Fios works fine. Might one or more of the HDMI cables in my setup possibly not be good enough, or is there a problem with the adapter?


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfetaz* /forum/post/19065225
> 
> 
> i am having a handshake issue with my Verizon Fios TV box and the 3DA1 Adapter. I just purchased a new Denon 1611 AVR which supports 3d. I have connected my PS3, my PC and my FIOS TV box to my new receiver. I have outputed from the receiver into the 3da1 adapter. From there I output to my Mitsubishi 65737. PS3 and PC work fine in this setup, but my fios box shows a screen that says "HDMI Content Protection thru HDMI Repeater has been comprimised." When I take the 3d adapter out of the setup and output the receiver to the Tv direct the Fios works fine. Might one or more of the HDMI cables in my setup possibly not be good enough, or is there a problem with the adapter?



To see if it's a cable, try swapping them around. Use the one that you know works with the PS3 on the FIOS box.


To see if it's the adapter, receiver or FIOS box, try FIOS -> adapter-> TV. Leave your receiver out of it to test. If by adding the receiver it does not work, then well........


----------



## rsnyder005

[Do you know if all three rear HDMI ports can pass 3D on the 835?]


any hdmi input should work as long as the adapter is hooked up to that input.


----------



## jheadley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Natrix1973* /forum/post/19062582
> 
> 
> Please call Mits support and let them know if you are having issues with the 833 series and the 3-D kit. I called them the other day to see if my problems are with the adapter or the tv and they are researching my issues with the adapter/73833. They are supposed to contact me within a couple days to see what they can find out.
> 
> 
> The more calls they get on the 833 series issues the better chance for a resolution to all of our issues with this combination of equipment.



Mits had me send my adapter in. Never could get it to work on my 833. Have not heard anything back yet though.


----------



## walford




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfetaz* /forum/post/19065225
> 
> 
> i am having a handshake issue with my Verizon Fios TV box and the 3DA1 Adapter. I just purchased a new Denon 1611 AVR which supports 3d. I have connected my PS3, my PC and my FIOS TV box to my new receiver. I have outputed from the receiver into the 3da1 adapter. From there I output to my Mitsubishi 65737. PS3 and PC work fine in this setup, but my fios box shows a screen that says "HDMI Content Protection thru HDMI Repeater has been comprimised." When I take the 3d adapter out of the setup and output the receiver to the Tv direct the Fios works fine. Might one or more of the HDMI cables in my setup possibly not be good enough, or is there a problem with the adapter?



Are you sure your AVR supports HDCP over it's HDMI inputs?

The PS3 and PC outputs most likely do not require it and the FIOS HDMI output does.


----------



## Natrix1973




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jheadley* /forum/post/19065553
> 
> 
> Mits had me send my adapter in. Never could get it to work on my 833. Have not heard anything back yet though.



How long ago did you send it in? They tried to call me last night but I missed the call and they didn't leave a voicemail. I am pretty sure that I will need to send my adapter in as well.


----------



## leemathre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Natrix1973* /forum/post/19066478
> 
> 
> How long ago did you send it in? They tried to call me last night but I missed the call and they didn't leave a voicemail. I am pretty sure that I will need to send my adapter in as well.



I am not the person you asked, but I also had to send in my adapter and power supply. I shipped it to them on August 6th and they received it on the 9th. On the 11th, they called me and said that the power supply was bad and they would send a replacement. So far, I have not recieved the return shipment. I called yesterday to ask about it and was told that I would get a call within 24 hours with an update. I have not received that call yet either.


----------



## Scubawoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *div3r5ity* /forum/post/19048883
> 
> 
> yeah let me know, now with the splitter will it send signal to both out puts simultaneously of will i be able to choose output 1 or 2 only?



I received the Octava 3x1 switch today and have everything hooked up. The switch does pass 3D without any problem. Everything works as expected. It takes a little longer to get the output for the source as it has to go through a few more steps than going to the adapter directly but it is worth not having to change cables around each time. No synch problems using the switch.


----------



## bhalbower




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *leemathre* /forum/post/19067531
> 
> 
> I am not the person you asked, but I also had to send in my adapter and power supply. I shipped it to them on August 6th and they received it on the 9th. On the 11th, they called me and said that the power supply was bad and they would send a replacement. So far, I have not received the return shipment. I called yesterday to ask about it and was told that I would get a call within 24 hours with an update. I have not received that call yet either.



I hope you have better luck than I did with their support department. I had a problem with my emitter and have been going back and forth with them for over a month now. They insisted I send them the adapter and the emitter. It took them over a month to finally tell me my emitter is bad, (which I new in the first place). Now I am waiting for them to get an emitter from the parts department and send everything back. I have called them over a dozen times and never get a call back in 24 hours. Dealing with their support department has been the worst customer service experience I have ever had. Not sure I will buy another Mits product.


----------



## sfetaz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19065725
> 
> 
> Are you sure your AVR supports HDCP over it's HDMI inputs?
> 
> The PS3 and PC outputs most likely do not require it and the FIOS HDMI output does.



When I connect the Fios box to the receiver, and connect the receiver directly to the tv, the picture and sound from the fios box comes in just fine.


When I connect the Fios box directly to the 3d Adapter, and connect the 3d adapter directly to the TV, the picture and sound from the fios box comes in just fine.


When I conect the Fios box to the receiver, then connect the receiver to the 3d adapter, which is connected to the TV, I either get the "Protection is comprimised" message, or I get a half flashing snow half flashing black screen. I do get sound just fine.


I can report that the cracking sound during input changes does sometimes still occur even after disconnecting and reconnecting all wires.


----------



## jheadley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Natrix1973* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> How long ago did you send it in? They tried to call me last night but I missed the call and they didn't leave a voicemail. I am pretty sure that I will need to send my adapter in as well.



Mitsubishi just received it from UPS yesterday.


----------



## miniditka

My HDMI inputs recently decided to stop working and the tech needed to order a new "main board" (which of course is on backorder). My question is, does anyone know if a new main board, will in effect upgrade my tv to a 2010model, thus eliminating the green tint effect when viewing 3d? Just wondering if this assumption was at all possible.


----------



## walford




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfetaz* /forum/post/19068576
> 
> 
> When I connect the Fios box to the receiver, and connect the receiver directly to the tv, the picture and sound from the fios box comes in just fine.



Is this for both 2D and 3D program content from FIOS?


----------



## Scubawoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *miniditka* /forum/post/19069314
> 
> 
> My HDMI inputs recently decided to stop working and the tech needed to order a new "main board" (which of course is on backorder). My question is, does anyone know if a new main board, will in effect upgrade my tv to a 2010model, thus eliminating the green tint effect when viewing 3d? Just wondering if this assumption was at all possible.



No it won't. It is just a replacement for the one you already have. It won't change anything but allow your HDMI inputs to work.


----------



## Blackagent

Does anyone get a switching/clicking noise when they use the adapter and direct TV while changing channels , some times I get 5 to 10 clicks before the station selected comes through.


----------



## leemathre




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bhalbower* /forum/post/19068026
> 
> 
> I hope you have better luck than I did with their support department. I had a problem with my emitter and have been going back and forth with them for over a month now. They insisted I send them the adapter and the emitter. It took them over a month to finally tell me my emitter is bad, (which I new in the first place). Now I am waiting for them to get an emitter from the parts department and send everything back. I have called them over a dozen times and never get a call back in 24 hours. Dealing with their support department has been the worst customer service experience I have ever had. Not sure I will buy another Mits product.



I finally got a call from tech support. They expect the part in next Thursday. Who knows how long it will take them to ship it once they get it.


----------



## Martinefski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Blackagent* /forum/post/19070339
> 
> 
> Does anyone get a switching/clicking noise when they use the adapter and direct TV while changing channels , some times I get 5 to 10 clicks before the station selected comes through.




Yes I had that issue as well. Go to the setup menu on your dvr and de-select forced resolution or what ever it's called. Now I only get them occasionally and then only when the resolution changes. Before it was overtime I changed the channel.


----------



## RU Geekman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfetaz* /forum/post/19065225
> 
> 
> i am having a handshake issue with my Verizon Fios TV box and the 3DA1 Adapter. I just purchased a new Denon 1611 AVR which supports 3d. I have connected my PS3, my PC and my FIOS TV box to my new receiver. I have outputed from the receiver into the 3da1 adapter. From there I output to my Mitsubishi 65737. PS3 and PC work fine in this setup, but my fios box shows a screen that says "HDMI Content Protection thru HDMI Repeater has been comprimised." When I take the 3d adapter out of the setup and output the receiver to the Tv direct the Fios works fine. Might one or more of the HDMI cables in my setup possibly not be good enough, or is there a problem with the adapter?



Try the following, which is a factory recommended procedure (not something I just made up -- though I am an authorized Mitsubishi dealer):


1. Disconnect everything from all the HDMI inputs.

2. Delete HDMI from the TV inputs menu.

3. Connect your AVR, via the signal adapter, to the HDMI input of choice on your television. Name it AVR (wait for about 10 minutes to see if the CEC screen appears).

4. If the CEC screen appears that means the AVR turned CEC back on for a new connection. You should be able to display the AVR menu. Enter the AVR menu and turn off the CEC.

5. Now connect the FiOS box to the AVR. Manually select the most appropriate input for the FiOS. You should be able to see the FiOS menus. Verify that CEC is off.

6. If you want automatic switching and each device listed in the Activity Menu, Select AVR from the Activity Menu. Then use NetCommand and learn the inputs per device. Don't forget the IR Blaster.


HDMI CEC (Consumer Electronics Control) has been a nightmare for manufacturers to implement from day one. Many of the issues I see posted about in this thread can be resolved through the above procedure. This is not a Mitsubishi issue, it is a standards issue.


----------



## Jesse E




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Martinefski* /forum/post/19070814
> 
> 
> Yes I had that issue as well. Go to the setup menu on your dvr and de-select forced resolution or what ever it's called. Now I only get them occasionally and then only when the resolution changes. Before it was overtime I changed the channel.



Cool... I was about to post about this. Although my situatuion is a little different, I think it will work. I have a Western Digital Media Player that I stream 3D content thru and into the adapter and I get the clicking and video loss when it first starts up the flick or previews, but I am forcing the video at 1080p 60hz. I'll try Auto, I think it's the issue.. Thanks!


----------



## bhalbower




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jesse E* /forum/post/19071320
> 
> 
> Cool... I was about to post about this. Although my situatuion is a little different, I think it will work. I have a Western Digital Media Player that I stream 3D content thru and into the adapter and I get the clicking and video loss when it first starts up the flick or previews, but I am forcing the video at 1080p 60hz. I'll try Auto, I think it's the issue.. Thanks!



Where did you get 3D content to add to your Media Player? I have a DLNA hard drive connected to my Blu Ray player and I can stream movies. Is it possible for me to download any 3D content that I could stream to my TV?


----------



## Jesse E

 www.biohemmet.se 


I recommend you donate to get access to ftp.


Also, search Usenet for 3D sBs


----------



## destiny 21

just gotmy mits 73838 tv this morning have the panny 350 and my verizon hooked to my onkyo 608 with hdmi and then to my mits tv also have the mits starter pack hooked eveything up using the adapter and emitter put in disney 3d demo disc and nothing got error message incompatible or something like that. back to ue for a newstarter pack.salesman says i dont even need to usethe adapter just the emitter and glasses.got home set tv to 3d side by side ir emitter and crstal clear 3d disney demo and sound. then put on fios demo mercedez bens demo 3d with no adapter. just the fios demo blows looks crappy. so with the new mits 73838 and 82838 no adapter needed just emitter


----------



## ajricaud




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *leemathre* /forum/post/19070524
> 
> 
> I finally got a call from tech support. They expect the part in next Thursday. Who knows how long it will take them to ship it once they get it.



I also have a bad power supply. I was one of the lucky (?) ones to p/u 2 starter kits for $239 from Frys--they no longer list it on their site.

I just got off the phone w/MDEA. I finally was able to get thru to the CSR that I swapped power supplies and found that 1 was bad. He kept referring to it as a "power cord", so I hope they get the correct info.

I guess I just have to wait for them to call and go from there. 2-to-1 I'll have to send the adapter too.


----------



## Blackagent

Thank you , this is a great forum


----------



## ajricaud




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jesse E* /forum/post/19071551
> 
> www.biohemmet.se
> 
> 
> I recommend you donate to get access to ftp.
> 
> 
> Also, search Usenet for 3D sBs



If you burn them to DVD will a Panny 300 convert them to Checkerboard?


----------



## sfetaz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RU Geekman* /forum/post/19071118
> 
> 
> Try the following, which is a factory recommended procedure (not something I just made up -- though I am an authorized Mitsubishi dealer):
> 
> 
> 1. Disconnect everything from all the HDMI inputs.
> 
> 2. Delete HDMI from the TV inputs menu.
> 
> 3. Connect your AVR, via the signal adapter, to the HDMI input of choice on your television. Name it AVR (wait for about 10 minutes to see if the CEC screen appears).
> 
> 4. If the CEC screen appears that means the AVR turned CEC back on for a new connection. You should be able to display the AVR menu. Enter the AVR menu and turn off the CEC.
> 
> 5. Now connect the FiOS box to the AVR. Manually select the most appropriate input for the FiOS. You should be able to see the FiOS menus. Verify that CEC is off.
> 
> 6. If you want automatic switching and each device listed in the Activity Menu, Select AVR from the Activity Menu. Then use NetCommand and learn the inputs per device. Don't forget the IR Blaster.
> 
> 
> HDMI CEC (Consumer Electronics Control) has been a nightmare for manufacturers to implement from day one. Many of the issues I see posted about in this thread can be resolved through the above procedure. This is not a Mitsubishi issue, it is a standards issue.



With regards to Step 2, how do I do that on the TV?


With regards to CEC, what does the CEC screen look like?


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *destiny 21* /forum/post/19072872
> 
> 
> just gotmy mits 73838 tv this morning have the panny 350 and my verizon hooked to my onkyo 608 with hdmi and then to my mits tv also have the mits starter pack hooked eveything up using the adapter and emitter put in disney 3d demo disc and nothing got error message incompatible or something like that. back to ue for a newstarter pack.salesman says i dont even need to usethe adapter just the emitter and glasses.got home set tv to 3d side by side ir emitter and crstal clear 3d disney demo and sound. then put on fios demo mercedez bens demo 3d with no adapter. just the fios demo blows looks crappy. so with the new mits 73838 and 82838 no adapter needed just emitter



This is because your sources are set to output _Side by Side_ 3D, not because the 73838 doesn't need an adapter. With sources outputting _Top and Bottom_ 3D or frame-packed _Bluray3D_ I believe you will still need the adapter.


----------



## Muckrak3r




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dreaux* /forum/post/19055363
> 
> 
> Instead of buying splitters and switchers and trying this and that you may want to bite the bullet and sell your old receiver on ebay and buy a 3D ready 1.4 receiver. A bunch of manufacturers a making them and they have really come down in price. I loved my older receiver and hated to get rid of it but 3D was very hit and miss using D* and bluray 3D. It would pop in and out and often lock up my screen..or I would get error messages. D* would tell me I don't have a 3D set etc.
> 
> I finally gave up and admitted this 3D stuff can get expensive. I bought a 3D ready 1.4 receiver and now everything is happy and very smooth transition from 3D and back. For some reason even my PQ improved with the newer receiver because it had a better video processor.
> 
> Have not heard of a workaround that really works with a 1.3 receiver, unless you have one of the newer ones that can do a total pass through. I never tried going direct because I want to use my receiver as a switcher so that I only have one HDMI going to the set.
> 
> I figured it would be a pain having separate setups. I also made sure my HDMI cables were high speed.



I ended up ordering the Onkyo 608. Between the 3d ready 1.4 hdmi, and the True HD audio... it will be a worthy upgrade. And I can sell my old receiver for 200 or so, and the PC monitor I have can be sold for 50 or so. The 608 has a vga input! So those 2 things will soften the blow.


I told the wife I bought it, before I actually did. Her reaction was mild to say the least. So I went ahead and pulled the trigger!! Now I will be ready for when Dish Network goes 3d also.


----------



## Scubawoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajricaud* /forum/post/19073647
> 
> 
> If you burn them to DVD will a Panny 300 convert them to Checkerboard?



In my experience you have to use the adapter to properly display the 3D on these videos. Also, some of the files have to be converted for the 350 to play, I expect it is the same for the 300.


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Muckrak3r* /forum/post/19074887
> 
> 
> Now I will be ready for when Dish Network goes 3d also.



Have you heard any news about this???


----------



## Muckrak3r




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/19075402
> 
> 
> Have you heard any news about this???



Unfortunately nothing new yet. But I know it's going to happen.


----------



## Jesse E




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scubawoman* /forum/post/19074999
> 
> 
> In my experience you have to use the adapter to properly display the 3D on these videos. Also, some of the files have to be converted for the 350 to play, I expect it is the same for the 300.



Scubawomen is correct. The files must be converted to a supported file format for the Panny, but you will need an adapter to convert to checkerboard. Or find an ISO and burn to Blu-Ray = headaches.


Do yo have a way to stream it to your tv or an HTPC set-up?


----------



## walford

Since the 300 and the 350 both offer Checkerboard 3D output there is no need for an adaspter for any file that they will play.


----------



## shanebuss

I just got the 3D Adapter kit for my mitubishi 82" 3D ready tv. I have verizon fios and a ps3 as my sources, which are connected to a Pioneer VSX-1018AH AMP via HDMI. A single HDMI cable goes from the Pioneer AMP to my TV.


Although I am able to get 3D content working from both my Ps3 and the FIOS Box, I do have an interesting issue.


The PS3 works fine connected through the pioneer, which then connects to the 3d mitsu adapter, and then the tv. The FIOS cable box has HDCP issues when connected through BOTH the pioneer and the 3d adapter, although it works fine when connected to each individually.


This is a pain because I cant use my pioneer amp (and 5.1 surround sound) when watching 3d content from fios, but a bigger pain because i have to physically remove either the Pioneer OR the 3D adapter from the chain to watch FIOS period. I realize this amp is not officially 3d capable, but it works fine with the PS3, and i'm not sure buying a Okyno 608 or similar would resolve the issue. I'm worried its a bigger imcompatibility with the Mitsu 3D adapter and fios, although fios does work when connected directly to the 3D Adapter, just not when going through BOTH the pioneer and the 3d adapter...


Any insight would be appreciated!


----------



## rad

I'd have to guess that since your Pioneer is only a HDMI 1.3 AVR it's the issue, 3D spec calls for HDMI 1.4.


----------



## walford

The HDMI 1.4a 3D specs do not require that all HDMI 1.4a 3D formats have to use a HDMI 1.4 A//V receiver. Infact only the double packed buffrer format from a 3D BR disk player requires an HDMI 1.4 receiver to retrive the audio. The other HDMI 1.4a 3D formats can all use a HDMI 1.3 receiver to obain both 3D video and audio as many users have found out.


----------



## shanebuss

The issue occurs even if i'm not watching 3d content, so I'm pretty sure it's not a HDMI version issue.... The verizon STB just doesnt seem to like having both the pioneer and the 3d device downstream?? It gives a HDCP repeater error


----------



## ajricaud




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jesse E* /forum/post/19076529
> 
> 
> Scubawomen is correct. The files must be converted to a supported file format for the Panny, but you will need an adapter to convert to checkerboard. Or find an ISO and burn to Blu-Ray = headaches.
> 
> 
> Do yo have a way to stream it to your tv or an HTPC set-up?



I burned the file to DVD. The Panny 300 reports it as a Divx file. It displays as SbS. I have the latest Nero version that can recode, but I don't know to what format.


I don't have an HTPC but have a PS3. Can it stream the file?


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shanebuss* /forum/post/19077987
> 
> 
> The issue occurs even if i'm not watching 3d content, so I'm pretty sure it's not a HDMI version issue.... The verizon STB just doesnt seem to like having both the pioneer and the 3d device downstream?? It gives a HDCP repeater error



Correct - (In plain English) one of your devices is not returning the correct message to the FIOS box.


Because the adapter does (connected FIOS -> adapter -> TV), it must be the receiver.


Obviously the PS3 is not as picky as the FIOS box. Understandable - the content providers FIOS uses are very picky about the HD content they provide, and make it very difficult for us to record HD. Your FIOS box thinks that is what you are trying to do because your receiver is blocking (or altering) the return message from the adapter.


----------



## walford




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shanebuss* /forum/post/19077987
> 
> 
> The issue occurs even if i'm not watching 3d content, so I'm pretty sure it's not a HDMI version issue.... The verizon STB just doesnt seem to like having both the pioneer and the 3d device downstream?? It gives a HDCP repeater error



If any of the downsteam devices do not support HighDefinitonCopyProtection (HDCP) the FIOS will receiver will not output Protected HD content to them over HDCP.


----------



## mstarks3d




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *john stephens* /forum/post/19064294
> 
> 
> I can attest to this since I have both Samsung and Mitsubishi glasses with Samsung Led 8000 and Mitsubishi Laservue DLP TV. Both sets of glasses work with either TV.



1. Costco is now selling the Mitsubishi 3D Ready DLP WD60C10 for $799 after rebate and it obviates many of the 3D issues described here.

2. All the Mits and Samsung glasses are compatible with the Mits adapter kits and with the 2010 Model Samsung 3DTV's and soon with our 3DTV Corp Home Emitter which fits the mits adapter or other vesa stereo plug(eg Quadro cards, gaming dongles etc).

3. Our emitters plug either directly into any 3D ready mits or samsung 3D ready tv and work with 7 kinds of wireless shutter glasses including our Model X which costs 2 to 3 times less than other glasses.

4. We have started selling Samsung/Mits compatible glasses on Amazon today for $89 for one or $79 for 4 or more. Will likely sell out in a few days but back in stock by middle of Sept.

5. If there is a better or cheaper solution please let me know!


----------



## mstarks3d




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scubawoman* /forum/post/19074999
> 
> 
> In my experience you have to use the adapter to properly display the 3D on these videos. Also, some of the files have to be converted for the 350 to play, I expect it is the same for the 300.



hi

those who are willing to use a pc and have a little patience can get 3d into any legacy display-3d or not, from cable or satellite with Wimmers stereoplayer and a tuner card or 3D BluRay using tools like PowerDVD or Arcsoft . No adapter, No 3DBRay player, cheap glasses. The 3DTV corp universal emitter is by far the least expensive shutter glasses solution. One of my clients posted a couple days ago on AVS on exactly how to get satellite 3d with no adapters. He bought a midrange emitter and 6 glasses for $500 and could easily accommodate 100 people.


----------



## mikeyari




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mstarks3d* /forum/post/19079983
> 
> 
> hi
> 
> those who are willing to use a pc and have a little patience can get 3d into any legacy display-3d or not, from cable or satellite with Wimmers stereoplayer and a tuner card or 3D BluRay using tools like PowerDVD or Arcsoft . No adapter, No 3DBRay player, cheap glasses. The 3DTV corp universal emitter is by far the least expensive shutter glasses solution. One of my clients posted a couple days ago on AVS on exactly how to get satellite 3d with no adapters. He bought a midrange emitter and 6 glasses for $500 and could easily accommodate 100 people.



You stated "can get 3d into any legacy display-3d or not," Are you saying that my DLP tv does not have to be 3D ready to receive 3D when using my HTPPC?


If so, where would the 3 prung vesa sync plug, plug into? My Tv doesn`t have this input.


May be I could get the 3dA-1 adaptar and use it`s vesa input along with the Gefen HDMI tool with Mits monitor info in combo with your glasses and emitter and HTPC software.... I might be able to turn my non 3 D ready DLP into displaying 3D!


Your glasses and emitter sync to the software correct? wait, the 3DA-1 only syncs to a Mits tv when the 3D mode on the TV is set....I guess it will not work.


----------



## Cleverland

I asked this in another thread but it was suggested that it may be better asked here:


Hey has anyone had any luck fixing the issue of no video when using DirectTV to Adapter to WD 73833 Mits TV? In the past I have had to switch the DVR off and on several times or switch TV inputs back and forth a couple of times for the the TV to sense a video signal but it seems to be getting way worse. Especially a pain when trying to view a recorded 3D source as turning the DVR off and back on stops the recording...Is there any way to boost the video signal or something?????


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/19081430
> 
> 
> I asked this in another thread but it was suggested that it may be better asked here:
> 
> 
> Hey has anyone had any luck fixing the issue of no video when using DirectTV to Adapter to WD 73833 Mits TV? In the past I have had to switch the DVR off and on several times or switch TV inputs back and forth a couple of times for the the TV to sense a video signal but it seems to be getting way worse. Especially a pain when trying to view a recorded 3D source as turning the DVR off and back on stops the recording...Is there any way to boost the video signal or something?????



You might want to try different cables and/or different HDMI inputs on your TV.


----------



## Muckrak3r

*shane* - have you tried turning off/on HDMI pass through on your receiver? and turning off HDMI control on every device that has the option? that's all I can suggest, plus do you have high speed HDMI cables?

*Clever* - have you tried turning off HDMI control on the TV? Also, do you have high speed HDMI cables? those are the only 2 things I can think of to suggest.


----------



## curtishd

For those of you with a xx638, can you see and access directv channels without the adapter? What about the 738? I know for the xx638 you still need the adapter but can you at least see/access the channels without the adapter?


----------



## walford

DirecTV will not output directly to a xx738 or xx838 model since they do not support even the minimum HDMI 1.4 3D requirements. You have to use an adapter which D* does support and which will output checkerboard 3D format to a xx738 or xx838 unit.

All HDMI cables sold the last couple of years are High Speed cables so that they could support 1080p HD HDMI content.


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Muckrak3r* /forum/post/19081636
> 
> *shane* - have you tried turning off/on HDMI pass through on your receiver? and turning off HDMI control on every device that has the option? that's all I can suggest, plus do you have high speed HDMI cables?
> 
> *Clever* - have you tried turning off HDMI control on the TV? Also, do you have high speed HDMI cables? those are the only 2 things I can think of to suggest.



Have tried replacing the HDMI cables but have not been able to figure out how to disable HDMI control on TV, AVR or DVR....


----------



## dreaux

If you can afford a really nice set you can get the starter kit for $99.

Beautiful PQ but not cheap.

http://www.us-appliance.com/wd82838.html


----------



## NSX1992

Offer ends 8/19/10


----------



## Muckrak3r




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NSX1992* /forum/post/19082173
> 
> 
> Offer ends 8/19/10



better hurry!


----------



## dreaux




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NSX1992* /forum/post/19082173
> 
> 
> Offer ends 8/19/10



Oh well....


----------



## WizardofhOgZ

I have a Mitsubishi WD-65737 and just got the 3DA-1 kit. A couple of issues.



First - I did get the 3D to work by putting the 3DA-1 between my HR21 DVR and my Mitsubishi television. Had to get on the TV menu and switch to 3D mode, etc. but got it to work and watched a few of the "previews" on 103 for about an hour. The problem was that when I switched over to a non-3D channel, the picture was all screwed up. The best way I can describe it iis that what should have been on my picture was way oversized so only part of it fit ont he screen, and it seemed to wrap itself around so there was image-on-image. I tried the different modes on the 3DA-1, and tried turning it off completely. Also tried switching the TV back from "3D" mode, etc, but nothing worked. From my reading of the 3DA-1 manual, I should be able to watch non-3D programs without doing anything special. Anyone else have this problem???


By the way - I am using the Xpand 3D Link glasses and they work fine without any need for a separate "emitter". I didn't recieve an emitter with my 3DA-1 kit . . . I guess you have to buy the larger package (that also includes the 2 Mit glasses to get the emitter?)


Second issue - I don't have a newer AV receiver, so my attempted solution to the dual input (i.e., DirecTV HD DVR and BluRay - Sony BDP-S570) was to buy a "many to 1" HDMI cord, in which I have up to 3 HDMI sources one one end and one HDMI plug on the other end. I can switch the source manually, or it will choose dynamically if only one of the sources is turned on. In theory, this should work but I could not make it happen, so I backed off of this and just plugged the DVR into the 3DA-1 and then into the TV, bypassing the BluRay altogether for the time being. Guess I'll either have to (1) upgrade to a newer 3D capable (or multi-HDMI in and out) AV receiver; (2) get a second 3DA-1 for the BluRay; or (3) manually switch it back and forth.


Any suggestions?


----------



## div3r5ity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shanebuss* /forum/post/19077401
> 
> 
> I just got the 3D Adapter kit for my mitubishi 82" 3D ready tv. I have verizon fios and a ps3 as my sources, which are connected to a Pioneer VSX-1018AH AMP via HDMI. A single HDMI cable goes from the Pioneer AMP to my TV.
> 
> 
> Although I am able to get 3D content working from both my Ps3 and the FIOS Box, I do have an interesting issue.
> 
> 
> The PS3 works fine connected through the pioneer, which then connects to the 3d mitsu adapter, and then the tv. The FIOS cable box has HDCP issues when connected through BOTH the pioneer and the 3d adapter, although it works fine when connected to each individually.
> 
> 
> This is a pain because I cant use my pioneer amp (and 5.1 surround sound) when watching 3d content from fios, but a bigger pain because i have to physically remove either the Pioneer OR the 3D adapter from the chain to watch FIOS period. I realize this amp is not officially 3d capable, but it works fine with the PS3, and i'm not sure buying a Okyno 608 or similar would resolve the issue. I'm worried its a bigger imcompatibility with the Mitsu 3D adapter and fios, although fios does work when connected directly to the 3D Adapter, just not when going through BOTH the pioneer and the 3d adapter...
> 
> 
> Any insight would be appreciated!


 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post19046851 


that is the issue im having also


you gonna have to do what im doing and thats buying 2 hmdi splitters(1 for ps3 and 1 for cablebox) then and hdmi switcher before the mitsu adapter. i got the hdmi switcher at radioshack for $30

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...261771&page=48 


scubawoman gave me some advice on this page


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WizardofhOgZ* /forum/post/19083502
> 
> 
> I have a Mitsubishi WD-65737 and just got the 3DA-1 kit. A couple of issues.
> 
> 
> 
> First - I did get the 3D to work by putting the 3DA-1 between my HR21 DVR and my Mitsubishi television. Had to get on the TV menu and switch to 3D mode, etc. but got it to work and watched a few of the "previews" on 103 for about an hour. The problem was that when I switched over to a non-3D channel, the picture was all screwed up. The best way I can describe it iis that what should have been on my picture was way oversized so only part of it fit ont he screen, and it seemed to wrap itself around so there was image-on-image. I tried the different modes on the 3DA-1, and tried turning it off completely. Also tried switching the TV back from "3D" mode, etc, but nothing worked. From my reading of the 3DA-1 manual, I should be able to watch non-3D programs without doing anything special. Anyone else have this problem???
> 
> 
> By the way - I am using the Xpand 3D Link glasses and they work fine without any need for a separate "emitter". I didn't recieve an emitter with my 3DA-1 kit . . . I guess you have to buy the larger package (that also includes the 2 Mit glasses to get the emitter?)
> 
> 
> Second issue - I don't have a newer AV receiver, so my attempted solution to the dual input (i.e., DirecTV HD DVR and BluRay - Sony BDP-S570) was to buy a "many to 1" HDMI cord, in which I have up to 3 HDMI sources one one end and one HDMI plug on the other end. I can switch the source manually, or it will choose dynamically if only one of the sources is turned on. In theory, this should work but I could not make it happen, so I backed off of this and just plugged the DVR into the 3DA-1 and then into the TV, bypassing the BluRay altogether for the time being. Guess I'll either have to (1) upgrade to a newer 3D capable (or multi-HDMI in and out) AV receiver; (2) get a second 3DA-1 for the BluRay; or (3) manually switch it back and forth.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions?



Because you have an 'older' receiver, you will have to hook up the adapter for each source like this (and leave the receiver out of it): source -> adapter -> TV.


My guess is that you have to turn on 3D in the TV's menu to watch 3D, and then turn it off in the TV's menu to watch 2D again. The TV will not switch modes automatically. You must go through the menus and do it yourself, or get a programmable remote for a one button solution. Your adapter is switching between the two modes automatically as advertised, but your TV is not. None of the 737 models do, from what I understand.


Your glasses work without an emitter because they do not need one. There are two kinds of glasses, DLP Link and ones that need an emitter. The Xpands are DLP Link. That means that they use a signal coming from your DLP TV that you cannot see to make 3D work for you.


The non DLP Link kind of glasses that come with the Mitsubishi kit require the emitter, as they do not see the signal the Xpands see. Instead, they need a different kind of signal that comes from an emitter.


----------



## Milmanias




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WizardofhOgZ* /forum/post/19083502
> 
> 
> Second issue - I don't have a newer AV receiver, so my attempted solution to the dual input (i.e., DirecTV HD DVR and BluRay - Sony BDP-S570) was to buy a "many to 1" HDMI cord, in which I have up to 3 HDMI sources one one end and one HDMI plug on the other end. I can switch the source manually, or it will choose dynamically if only one of the sources is turned on. In theory, this should work but I could not make it happen, so I backed off of this and just plugged the DVR into the 3DA-1 and then into the TV, bypassing the BluRay altogether for the time being. Guess I'll either have to (1) upgrade to a newer 3D capable (or multi-HDMI in and out) AV receiver; (2) get a second 3DA-1 for the BluRay; or (3) manually switch it back and forth.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions?



What I'm planning on doing, as soon as there are 3d blu rays available for rent through Netflix and Dish finally provides 3d, is to get a 4x2 hdmi switcher. Each box will have an hdmi cable to the switcher and an optical to the receiver, then the switcher will have one HDMI cable to each the receiver and the tv. I saw some switchers at ebay for around $60 but have no idea if they'll have any problems with 3d.


----------



## Scubawoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WizardofhOgZ* /forum/post/19083502
> 
> 
> Second issue - I don't have a newer AV receiver, so my attempted solution to the dual input (i.e., DirecTV HD DVR and BluRay - Sony BDP-S570) was to buy a "many to 1" HDMI cord, in which I have up to 3 HDMI sources one one end and one HDMI plug on the other end. I can switch the source manually, or it will choose dynamically if only one of the sources is turned on. In theory, this should work but I could not make it happen, so I backed off of this and just plugged the DVR into the 3DA-1 and then into the TV, bypassing the BluRay altogether for the time being. Guess I'll either have to (1) upgrade to a newer 3D capable (or multi-HDMI in and out) AV receiver; (2) get a second 3DA-1 for the BluRay; or (3) manually switch it back and forth.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions?



I have the 3DC1000, Panasonic 350, Directv dvr HR24-500, Mitsubishi WD73835.

I am using the Octava 3x1 switch without any problems. They also make a 5x1 switch. It passes 3D. Here is the link

http://www.octavainc.com/HDMI%20switch%203port.htm 


If you need a splitter, I am using a Monoprice splitter which works with 3D. Here is that link
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 


Monoprice does have some other powered splitters but I can confirm the one in the link above works with 3D with my equipment.


----------



## Muckrak3r

Guys, I ordered the Onkyo 608 receiver to go 3D with multiple sources. It was $399. I will sell my old receiver for 200 or more, and a 17" flat panel for $40 or so. With the $160+tax I saved on the 3D adapter kit sale, I more than break even on the receiver upgrade.


I wouldn't want to bypass my receiver (and surround) on all 3D content. Just not an enjoyable experience gaming, DVR (when Dish goes 3D), or watching blu-rays on the TV speakers.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WizardofhOgZ* /forum/post/19083502
> 
> 
> [snip] ...The problem was that when I switched over to a non-3D channel, the picture was all screwed up. The best way I can describe it iis that what should have been on my picture was way oversized so only part of it fit ont he screen, and it seemed to wrap itself around so there was image-on-image... [snip]



Seems like the adapter was still in SbS or TnB mode.


----------



## jjhuiz

Anyone know when the PS3 will get the BR update in September? Also curious if anyone has an opinion on whether they think the PS3 will still allow pass through via HDMI 1.3 AVR. I currently have it working for games but not sure if it will continue when the update happens.


Thanks


----------



## pistonbrokeagain

Ok, finally got the adapter from Electronics Warehouse after some back order delays, first weekend with it, here's my setup:


DirecTV Hr22

Mits 73833 TV

Denon AVR-3808CI

Pioneer DVD Player

PS3 (3 yr old)

Mits 3DC-1000 Starter Pack


Since i'm waiting for PS3 3D Software Update (Hopefully in Sept), i just worked on DTV's 3D Input, wired exactly as per manual DTV>Adaptor>Mits TV. Adapter HDMI cable to HDMI input 2 on TV, input changed in TV menu to GAME and FX Gaming ON. I left the Pioneer DVD player and PS3 connected through AVR and AVR to HDMI 1 on TV, so that i had an option to switch inputs (as noted in earlier posts, if no hookup, MitsTV wont be able to switch back and forth on input selection).


Since Denon is HDMI 1.3, i Coaxed the digital audio out from the TV to the AVR for nicer sound than the TV can put out.


After full restart of all components, the 3DC did not pass regular 2D channels from DTV reciever to the TV (probably because TV was in 3D mode), so turned 3D off in TV menu and then it worked. Tuned to the DirecTV's channel 103 for 3D trailers, blue screen as expected, the 833 back to 3D mode, picture came up in surprisingly good 3D display. I watched for an hour or 2 and didn't notice any of the green hue issues mentioned on this forum.


Switching the reciever to a regular non-3D channel, the blue screen re-appeared and even turning the 833 back to non-3D mode and switching back and fro of inputs did not restore it. Hard reboot of DTV reciever was only way to get it up again...bit painful to say the least.


Now i'm watching regular DTV programming and punched in channel 103 (3D) while in the DTV guide (not selected, just to view in Guide to see whats on), bang - blue screen again ! Tried another reciever hard reset but still no luck (DTV HR-22 had the resolution blue led's flashing left to right and back). Reset reciever a few more times and finally got back to regular programming ! Since when i'm "Blue-screened" out, cant tell if changing channel on the DTV is working (IE from a 3D channel to regular), so makes troubleshooting a bit hard.


All in all, really liked the 3D vision, but with just one 3D source, connected as recommended, switching from 3D programming to 2D is an unbelievable PITA. Sounds like a DTV Reciever issue, but i doubt i'll get a lot of help from them, so will keep following this Forum to see if anyone has any good fixes (thanks to all who post).


----------



## Zapix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjhuiz* /forum/post/19086622
> 
> 
> Anyone know when the PS3 will get the BR update in September? Also curious if anyone has an opinion on whether they think the PS3 will still allow pass through via HDMI 1.3 AVR. I currently have it working for games but not sure if it will continue when the update happens.
> 
> 
> Thanks



I saw a website (not one that I know as credible though) that had dated it for the 12th. Known and credible websites I have not seen a given date.


The problem with the 12th is, it's a Sunday. I don't imagine they're going to have a firmware update on a Sunday, although considering the time difference between the US and Japan (and that I played an Japanese based MMO for years and got used to updates on their hours), it's not impossible, at least late Sunday night.


Personally I speculate the upgrade will come on Monday the 13th, and I am pretty sure no later than that date. The 14th is a PSN update day, so firmware updates that day wouldn't make sense. Also, Monster House (a Sony Pictures movie) comes out on BD3D, so I'd imagine they would want to get that going to boost sales.


It only makes sense


----------



## Zapix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pistonbrokeagain* /forum/post/19087348
> 
> 
> 
> Since i'm waiting for PS3 3D Software Update (Hopefully in Sept).



You probably know this, but the update for 3D gaming was already released. So if you are curious to see the 3D running 3D content, you can download free demos that do this. However, seeing as how I promote the PS3 as a BD player to people looking for a BD player, you may have no interest in that for all I know! As I noted in the post above, I'm pretty sure the update will be Sept. 13, but possibly sooner.


On that note, I have a problem switching between 2D and 3D content with the PS3 like you do with your DVR. Still not sure my why Comcast SA8300HD stb doesn't give me trouble switching between 2D and 3D content. It originally did, and then it stopped. Magic I suppose (I don't think Comcast is competent enough to have fixed it with some update)!


----------



## pistonbrokeagain

Thanks Zapix, i'm not a big Gamer and the PS3 was really bought with the intention of watching Blu-ray (luckily i bought it during the HD-DVD v Blu Ray wars, that was won in favour of Blu Ray). So i'll just wait on the PS3 3D update. Priority right now is to make the 2D / 3D switchover on my sole input of DTV's content, work a bit easier, maybe DTV will "Magically" fix the issue as Comcast did for you ! Thanks for the input mate..


----------



## Muckrak3r

Dish Network going 3D rumor (from a reliable source), 3D by the end of September! Same time PS3 is said to have blu-ray 3d support!

http://www.satelliteguys.us/3d-techn...ml#post2304159


----------



## lujan

Any other Comcast subscribers know when the next 3D show will air on ESPN3D? I heard it's not until 9/6/10.


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/19087980
> 
> 
> Any other Comcast subscribers know when the next 3D show will air on ESPN3D? I heard it's not until 9/6/10.


 http://espn.go.com/3d/schedule.html


----------



## Joseph Clark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Muckrak3r* /forum/post/19087928
> 
> 
> Dish Network going 3D rumor (from a reliable source), 3D by the end of September! Same time PS3 is said to have blu-ray 3d support!
> 
> http://www.satelliteguys.us/3d-techn...ml#post2304159



That part of the site is down now. This is the news I've been hoping for, so I hope it wasn't just a false alarm.


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Muckrak3r* /forum/post/19087928
> 
> 
> Dish Network going 3D rumor (from a reliable source), 3D by the end of September! Same time PS3 is said to have blu-ray 3d support!
> 
> http://www.satelliteguys.us/3d-techn...ml#post2304159



Ahhhhhh!!!! Have the heavens answered my prayers???










I must not get to excited until real confirmation...


BTW, I can't see the page either lol.


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pistonbrokeagain* /forum/post/19087348
> 
> 
> All in all, really liked the 3D vision, but with just one 3D source, connected as recommended, switching from 3D programming to 2D is an unbelievable PITA. Sounds like a DTV Reciever issue, but i doubt i'll get a lot of help from them, so will keep following this Forum to see if anyone has any good fixes (thanks to all who post).



This is a known problem with the WD xx833 series. I have been successful in just cycling the DVR off then back on (sometimes several times) to get from blue screen to picture. Sometimes I switch inputs on the TV back and forth to fix it. Recently it got very bad and I couldn't seem to get a picture no matter what I did. In desperation I changed the TV input from Game to something else and then back to game and it seemed to help a little.. Don't ask me why!!







I am assuming this is an adapter/TV interface issue, I have tried changing HDMI cables with shorter higher quality cables but it did not help at all....


----------



## Natrix1973




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pistonbrokeagain* /forum/post/19087348
> 
> 
> Ok, finally got the adapter from Electronics Warehouse after some back order delays, first weekend with it, here's my setup:
> 
> 
> DirecTV Hr22
> 
> Mits 73833 TV
> 
> Denon AVR-3808CI
> 
> Pioneer DVD Player
> 
> PS3 (3 yr old)
> 
> Mits 3DC-1000 Starter Pack
> 
> 
> Since i'm waiting for PS3 3D Software Update (Hopefully in Sept), i just worked on DTV's 3D Input, wired exactly as per manual DTV>Adaptor>Mits TV. Adapter HDMI cable to HDMI input 2 on TV, input changed in TV menu to GAME and FX Gaming ON. I left the Pioneer DVD player and PS3 connected through AVR and AVR to HDMI 1 on TV, so that i had an option to switch inputs (as noted in earlier posts, if no hookup, MitsTV wont be able to switch back and forth on input selection).
> 
> 
> Since Denon is HDMI 1.3, i Coaxed the digital audio out from the TV to the AVR for nicer sound than the TV can put out.
> 
> 
> After full restart of all components, the 3DC did not pass regular 2D channels from DTV reciever to the TV (probably because TV was in 3D mode), so turned 3D off in TV menu and then it worked. Tuned to the DirecTV's channel 103 for 3D trailers, blue screen as expected, the 833 back to 3D mode, picture came up in surprisingly good 3D display. I watched for an hour or 2 and didn't notice any of the green hue issues mentioned on this forum.
> 
> 
> Switching the reciever to a regular non-3D channel, the blue screen re-appeared and even turning the 833 back to non-3D mode and switching back and fro of inputs did not restore it. Hard reboot of DTV reciever was only way to get it up again...bit painful to say the least.
> 
> 
> Now i'm watching regular DTV programming and punched in channel 103 (3D) while in the DTV guide (not selected, just to view in Guide to see whats on), bang - blue screen again ! Tried another reciever hard reset but still no luck (DTV HR-22 had the resolution blue led's flashing left to right and back). Reset reciever a few more times and finally got back to regular programming ! Since when i'm "Blue-screened" out, cant tell if changing channel on the DTV is working (IE from a 3D channel to regular), so makes troubleshooting a bit hard.
> 
> 
> All in all, really liked the 3D vision, but with just one 3D source, connected as recommended, switching from 3D programming to 2D is an unbelievable PITA. Sounds like a DTV Reciever issue, but i doubt i'll get a lot of help from them, so will keep following this Forum to see if anyone has any good fixes (thanks to all who post).



Same issue I have posted about with my 73833 as well. I have to reset the Directv receiver when switching between 3-D and normal channels which is a pain. I have to unplug and then plug back in the HDMI input to the adapter when using the PS3 whenever it switches resolutions as I get the blue screen. Please call Mitsubishi and let them know about your issue as well so they can hopefully come up with a fix. I have a call into them about this issue already and have been playing phone tag for the last week about it. It is clearly an issue between the adapter and the 833 model.


----------



## walford

Whatr happens when you use the "3D Mode" button on the adapter/converter remote to cycle beteen the the possible input formats? When you change to a 2D channel on the D* PVR does the adapter.converter indicate 3D cotent is being receivecd?


----------



## Muckrak3r




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/19088220
> 
> 
> Ahhhhhh!!!! Have the heavens answered my prayers???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I must not get to excited until real confirmation...
> 
> 
> BTW, I can't see the page either lol.


 http://www.satelliteguys.us/3d-techn...rying-3-a.html 


Try that link. Dunno what went wrong the 1st time I tried it. Post #13 by Scott. He has been dead on with most if not all of his 'rumors' on that forum.


----------



## Av8tr

I posted this elsewhere, but no input.


Just got home from South America and turned on my new HT that I had missed sorely, and the D* started downloading a software update called "040D".


Does anyone know what it entailed? When I left I was having problems getting the 3D to work thru my Denon AVR but now it works great. Is it possible that update had something to do with it?


Well actually it doesn't work great. When I switch back to 2d i lose HD resolution. Even after resetting D* box it's still SD. Any suggestions?


Never mind about the resolution problem. I called D* tech support, and I had to change the settings under "display" to show "All Hd channels". Not sure how that got changed, but it's fine now.

Av8tr is online now Report Post Edit/Delete Message


----------



## mrmits




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pistonbrokeagain* /forum/post/19087348
> 
> 
> Ok, finally got the adapter from Electronics Warehouse after some back order delays, first weekend with it, here's my setup:
> 
> 
> DirecTV Hr22
> 
> Mits 73833 TV
> 
> Denon AVR-3808CI
> 
> Pioneer DVD Player
> 
> PS3 (3 yr old)
> 
> Mits 3DC-1000 Starter Pack
> 
> 
> Since i'm waiting for PS3 3D Software Update (Hopefully in Sept), i just worked on DTV's 3D Input, wired exactly as per manual DTV>Adaptor>Mits TV. Adapter HDMI cable to HDMI input 2 on TV, input changed in TV menu to GAME and FX Gaming ON. I left the Pioneer DVD player and PS3 connected through AVR and AVR to HDMI 1 on TV, so that i had an option to switch inputs (as noted in earlier posts, if no hookup, MitsTV wont be able to switch back and forth on input selection).
> 
> 
> Since Denon is HDMI 1.3, i Coaxed the digital audio out from the TV to the AVR for nicer sound than the TV can put out.
> 
> 
> After full restart of all components, the 3DC did not pass regular 2D channels from DTV reciever to the TV (probably because TV was in 3D mode), so turned 3D off in TV menu and then it worked. Tuned to the DirecTV's channel 103 for 3D trailers, blue screen as expected, the 833 back to 3D mode, picture came up in surprisingly good 3D display. I watched for an hour or 2 and didn't notice any of the green hue issues mentioned on this forum.
> 
> 
> Switching the reciever to a regular non-3D channel, the blue screen re-appeared and even turning the 833 back to non-3D mode and switching back and fro of inputs did not restore it. Hard reboot of DTV reciever was only way to get it up again...bit painful to say the least.
> 
> 
> Now i'm watching regular DTV programming and punched in channel 103 (3D) while in the DTV guide (not selected, just to view in Guide to see whats on), bang - blue screen again ! Tried another reciever hard reset but still no luck (DTV HR-22 had the resolution blue led's flashing left to right and back). Reset reciever a few more times and finally got back to regular programming ! Since when i'm "Blue-screened" out, cant tell if changing channel on the DTV is working (IE from a 3D channel to regular), so makes troubleshooting a bit hard.
> 
> 
> All in all, really liked the 3D vision, but with just one 3D source, connected as recommended, switching from 3D programming to 2D is an unbelievable PITA. Sounds like a DTV Reciever issue, but i doubt i'll get a lot of help from them, so will keep following this Forum to see if anyone has any good fixes (thanks to all who post).



Had same issues. I found if i changed the input on the 833 from game to something else and then back to game i would get 2d picture from my HR24-500.


I called Mits and after 2 weeks of dickering back and forth (need serial number of adapter- then of TV - date of purchase, etc) demanded they send me firmware upgrade 9.03. They said that wouldn't help my problem....but guess what- it now goes in and out of 3d just fine.


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Av8tr* /forum/post/19090670
> 
> 
> I posted this elsewhere, but no input.
> 
> 
> Just got home from South America and turned on my new HT that I had missed sorely, and the D* started downloading a software update called "040D".
> 
> 
> Does anyone know what it entailed? When I left I was having problems getting the 3D to work thru my Denon AVR but now it works great. Is it possible that update had something to do with it?
> 
> 
> Well actually it doesn't work great. When I switch back to 2d i lose HD resolution. Even after resetting D* box it's still SD. Any suggestions?
> 
> Av8tr is online now Report Post Edit/Delete Message



This might be what you are looking for:

http://www.dbstalk.com/showthread.ph...64#post2556264


----------



## Joseph Clark

I saw my first 3D demo of a Mits kit hooked up to a new Mits DLP rear projector. We tried the Mits glasses and standard Samsung glasses - with a special Mits 3D demo disc. Nothing the salesman tried was able to get the demo to work. He confirmed with other salesmen that 3D on the Mits was "hit or miss." Disappointing, but not unexpected, given what I've been reading here.


----------



## rad

I've got the 3DC-100 connected to a WD-73735 for a DirecTV HR23-700 and PS/3 via a Denon AVR-891 and works fine here. I also tried a DirecTV H21-100, no problems I tried two DirecTV HR24-500's, it played 3D content but when using a DVR function like RW/FF/30Skip the TV would appear to lose signal sync or something that cause the video to blank out for 5 to 10 seconds.


----------



## Natrix1973




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrmits* /forum/post/19090718
> 
> 
> Had same issues. I found if i changed the input on the 833 from game to something else and then back to game i would get 2d picture from my HR24-500.
> 
> 
> I called Mits and after 2 weeks of dickering back and forth (need serial number of adapter- then of TV - date of purchase, etc) demanded they send me firmware upgrade 9.03. They said that wouldn't help my problem....but guess what- it now goes in and out of 3d just fine.



What version were you at before the upgrade?


I called them back today and finally got them to send me a firmware upgrade as well as I was at 9.01. Hopefully I will get it this week and will report back on if it fixes my problems. I can't believe what a pain it is to get them to send a firmware upgrade. They must have crappy code if they are worried about breaking a TV with an "upgrade".


----------



## BradP

Got the kit, some thoughts. Using it with the 73C9.


Don't have an AVR that passes HDMI 1.4 just yet so I'm doing all this direct from converter box to component.


Hooked up to my DirecTV HR21, worked fine. I hear they have an on demand 3d option coming, but for right now, nothing but golf and PPV. Will record some of the other programming later.


Next, hooked up my HTPC running XBMC under Linux. No go here with any of the downloaded MKV demos I tried. XBMC either does not yet talk nice with the mitsu or I've got it set wrong. Anyone running any version of XBMC on an HTPC had any luck playing MKV SBS videos through XBMC?


Next, hooked up my Briteview Cinematube. Happy to report this played everything as expected without a hitch except when frame rates got really high (that's the Briteview though, not the 3D).


Didn't hook up my PS3 yet as I'm weary of switching cables all the time -- Really need to get a new AVR or switchbox now I guess.


So far, the 3D is decent, I look forward to it being more widespread, and of course to real Bluray 3D (I didn't buy a 3D bluray as I am waiting for the PS3 upgrade).


If anyone got any SBS MKV videos to play using XBMC on an HTPC I'd love to hear that.


I'm also hoping someone figures out a quick macro to switch 3D on and off via a Harmony remote.


Good luck all.


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BradP* /forum/post/19091146
> 
> 
> Hooked up to my DirecTV HR21, worked fine. I hear they have an on demand 3d option coming, but for right now, nothing but golf and PPV. Will record some of the other programming later.



If you get the HR21 connected to the internet in a few hours channel 105 will show up for on demand. Right now there's only IIRC 4 or 5 programs out there and they're the same as ones that cycle through on channel 103. The PPV's have been the same for the past month, one movie and four IMAX shorts.


----------



## mrmits




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Natrix1973* /forum/post/19091106
> 
> 
> What version were you at before the upgrade?
> 
> 
> I called them back today and finally got them to send me a firmware upgrade as well as I was at 9.01. Hopefully I will get it this week and will report back on if it fixes my problems. I can't believe what a pain it is to get them to send a firmware upgrade. They must have crappy code if they are worried about breaking a TV with an "upgrade".



I was at 9.01. Yes, it wasn't easy to convince them to just gimme the upgrade, that's for sure.


----------



## pistonbrokeagain

mrmits, how did Mits send you the update to 9.03, is it a file that could be shared and uploaded to the TV via USB stick on the Front 833 TV USB input, if so could you make the file available to us 833 owners ? Thanks


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrmits* /forum/post/19090718
> 
> 
> Had same issues. I found if i changed the input on the 833 from game to something else and then back to game i would get 2d picture from my HR24-500.
> 
> 
> I called Mits and after 2 weeks of dickering back and forth (need serial number of adapter- then of TV - date of purchase, etc) demanded they send me firmware upgrade 9.03. They said that wouldn't help my problem....but guess what- it now goes in and out of 3d just fine.



So let me make sure I understand this. You were having the problem of getting the blue screen when you switched from 2D to 3D and had to cycle DVR or TV inputs to get the TV to sence the Video signal and this problem was fixed when you went to version 9.03?


----------



## mrmits




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pistonbrokeagain* /forum/post/19091239
> 
> 
> mrmits, how did Mits send you the update to 9.03, is it a file that could be shared and uploaded to the TV via USB stick on the Front 833 TV USB input, if so could you make the file available to us 833 owners ? Thanks



They sent a USB stick that uploaded via the front input. They also sent a return envelope which I used to send it back without thinking about copying or uploading. Doh!




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/19091247
> 
> 
> So let me make sure I understand this. You were having the problem of getting the blue screen when you switched from 2D to 3D and had to cycle DVR or TV inputs to get the TV to sence the Video signal and this problem was fixed when you went to version 9.03?



I was also having the blue screen problem going from 3d to 2d. Now with 9.03 i can go 2d to 3d and back with no issues.


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrmits* /forum/post/19091425
> 
> 
> They sent a USB stick that uploaded via the front input. They also sent a return envelope which I used to send it back without thinking about copying or uploading. Doh!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was also having the blue screen problem going from 3d to 2d. Now with 9.03 i can go 2d to 3d and back with no issues.



This is great news!!!!!!!! I sent them an Email to request an update. I can't believe they have a fix and do not make the firmware at least available for download!!!! Now if they can add a way to turn off DLP Link while they are at it. This update didn't include this feature did it?


----------



## pistonbrokeagain

mrmits, no problem i'll try and get same from Mitsubishi - Anyone else on this Forum get and make a copy of the update file 9.03 for the Mits xx833 (im assuming all 833 series get same update file) ... Thanks


Edit: The "Mitsubishi Digital Electronics America" is located 5 minutes from my house, so i'm going to visit them on Friday with a bunch of questions, will keep you all posted.


----------



## BradP

How can we tell which firmware our set has, anyway?


Thanks for the info on channel 105, it tuned right in for me.


Discovered something else kinda cool -- The CinemaTube actually passes the 3D in SBS through my older Onkyo non-3D receiver, worked well, I assume because the MKV files are not full bandwidth.


However, the DirecTV H21 was not at all happy connected in this way and won't function unless it's direct or I upgrade to a better receiver, which it looks like I'll do now.


But if for some reason someone wants to only pass through using a media player, it looks like the kit will work just fine even on older non-HDMI 1.4 receivers, just not on full-bandwidth bluray or directv (and I assume ps3 as well).


----------



## Zapix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BradP* /forum/post/19091851
> 
> 
> How can we tell which firmware our set has, anyway?



Press [MENU] on the remote and look to the top right of the menu screen. Atleast that's where it shows for my 73833.



As for the bits above about 9.03 fixing the xx833s... Hope it works. If it does, I'll make an effort to demand the firmware upgrade. Until then, 9.00 it shall remain.


----------



## Jovan023

Crew, I was hoping for some help, this thread has been excellent thus far. So I just recieved the 3DC1000 for my Mitsu WD73C9 and ran into a problem. The adapter works great from my PS3 >adapter>tv (havent tried my cable box since time warner only has sporadic 3d events). The problem is when I hook the PS3 >Onkyo 807 (HDMI 1.3) >to adapter> to tv, 2d passes without a problem but 3d gives me the blue screen of death. I know that both the onkyo and the mitsu stuff is all HDMI 1.3 so it should, in theory, pass thru without any problem. I am assuming its the EDID problem that I have heard folks on here mention.


Does anyone know a workaround to avoid the Onkyo putting its own info into the system, like a way to truly disable it touching the video in any way?


If not, I was wondering if anyone had tried using an HDMI splitter and then an HDMI switcher to send an individual HDMI to the reciever for sound only and then on through to the 3DC1000 adapter for video/2D/3D? I think scubawoman a few pages back did it with a denon reciever but I dont want to spend a bunch of money and do it with my onkyo and have a delay/mismatch in video and sound if it doesnt work well or have it not work at all. I would set it up to split the HDMI from both the cable box and PS3, run one HDMI to reciever for sound only, then the other cable to a HDMI switcher (hopefully an automatic one), then to the 3DC1000 and then onto the TV


Please let me know any of your thoughts on this, I think the 3d worked great but I cant sacrifice the Dolby True HD and DTS Master Audio sound by running a coax or digitial optical cable, it would ruin my setup. If I was smart I probably wouldve waited on buying a 3d AVR instead of jumping on a great deal on the Onkyo 807.


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jovan023* /forum/post/19093273
> 
> 
> Please let me know any of your thoughts on this, I think the 3d worked great but I cant sacrifice the Dolby True HD and DTS Master Audio sound by running a coax or digitial optical cable, it would ruin my setup. If I was smart I probably wouldve waited on buying a 3d AVR instead of jumping on a great deal on the Onkyo 807.



From everything I've read, it wouldn't ruin your setup. Both Dolby and DTS say on Blu-ray or HD-DVD their lossy codecs are perceptibly indistinguishable from the lossless. One of the audio blogs(I don't remember which one) confirmed this in blind tests.


----------



## Jovan023

Intresting, maybe that is worth trying? The other setup I was thinking was a 4x2 switch, where I would hook my PS3 and cable box to the 4x2, run one of the outputs to my AVR for audio, and the other to the mitsu adapter>TV. maybe thats the cheapest way to do it and preserve HDMI?? Its definately a frustrating problem....I guess this is the price you pay to be an early adapter (on a budget).


----------



## Jovan023

Also, I have a harmony remote and dont know if I can program the remote for the HDMI switch into it?? anyone know if that is possible? thx again


----------



## jheadley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Natrix1973* /forum/post/19089056
> 
> 
> Same issue I have posted about with my 73833 as well. I have to reset the Directv receiver when switching between 3-D and normal channels which is a pain. I have to unplug and then plug back in the HDMI input to the adapter when using the PS3 whenever it switches resolutions as I get the blue screen. Please call Mitsubishi and let them know about your issue as well so they can hopefully come up with a fix. I have a call into them about this issue already and have been playing phone tag for the last week about it. It is clearly an issue between the adapter and the 833 model.



Could never get anything but a blue screen on my 833. Mitsubishi asked me to mail them the adapter. They called last week to say there is nothing wrong with the adapter, I must have it connected wrong, case closed, good luck we're sending it back to you.


----------



## Milmanias




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jovan023* /forum/post/19093324
> 
> 
> Intresting, maybe that is worth trying? The other setup I was thinking was a 4x2 switch, where I would hook my PS3 and cable box to the 4x2, run one of the outputs to my AVR for audio, and the other to the mitsu adapter>TV. maybe thats the cheapest way to do it and preserve HDMI?? Its definately a frustrating problem....I guess this is the price you pay to be an early adapter (on a budget).



You're in the same situation I'm in. I have a 1.3 HDMI receiver that I like and bought last year, before knowing about the 3D mess. I'm not going to exchange it, and I'm willing to sacrifice the HD audio for 3d movies. I've also been thinking about the 4x2 switchers and these 2 are the ones I'm looking at and am comfortable with the price
http://cgi.ebay.com/CML-4-x-2-HDMI-v...efaultDomain_0 

http://cgi.ebay.com/HDMI-4x2-Matrix-...efaultDomain_0 


The only problem is I don't know if they'll support 3D. I don't need one until the PS3 gets the 3D update, and really only after Netflix stocks them for rent. Hopefully by then it'll be known if these inexpensive switchers can handle 3D.


If you come up with a good solution please let us know.


----------



## Jovan023

I will. I have been debating about the 4x2 vs the hdmi splitters and then a switcher but I think Im gonna pull the trigger on the 4x2. This 4x2 (according to the reviews) will pass 3d through a 1.3

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 


The thing that really bothers me is my 1.3 reciever should be able to do this, I dont want to waste $$ and add another level of complexity to my setup. My wife already complains and I made it fool proof with the harmony remote. I think I am going to pull the trigger on the 4x2 today, the only thing holding me back is hoping for someone here to shed some light on how to rig up the onkyo to just simply pass the 3d and not mess with it. anyhow, ill let you all know


----------



## George Omoregie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jovan023* /forum/post/19094438
> 
> 
> I will. I have been debating about the 4x2 vs the hdmi splitters and then a switcher but I think Im gonna pull the trigger on the 4x2. This 4x2 (according to the reviews) will pass 3d through a 1.3
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
> 
> 
> The thing that really bothers me is my 1.3 reciever should be able to do this, I dont want to waste $$ and add another level of complexity to my setup. My wife already complains and I made it fool proof with the harmony remote. I think I am going to pull the trigger on the 4x2 today, the only thing holding me back is hoping for someone here to shed some light on how to rig up the onkyo to just simply pass the 3d and not mess with it. anyhow, ill let you all know



Greetings:

Can you post a link to the review(s) of this item?

Does it have intelligent switching, meaning automated switching? or switching is manual only.

George


----------



## Milmanias

To get to the reviews you need to click on "rated by 2 users"


Looks like a good product at a great price. The only thing I don't like is that the outputs are on each side; it'll be impossible to hide the cables unless hiding the whole thing. But somebody claims it supports a 3D blu ray player so that's a huge plus.


I wonder if going through the switcher and Mits 3D adapter induces additional lag, and if it'll be obvious in games and/or movies.


----------



## walford

The issue is not will the receiver or switcher(one destination at a time) or a splitter(multiple concurent desintations) pass through HDMI 1.4a formatted 3D content from the source to the destination but for which destination will the swither or splitter pass the information on whch HDMI 1.4a 3D resolutions it will accept from a source.


----------



## Milmanias




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19095865
> 
> 
> The issue is not will the receiver or switcher(one destination at a time) or a splitter(multiple concurent desintations) pass through HDMI 1.4a formatted 3D content from the source to the destination but for which destination will the swither or splitter pass the information on whch HDMI 1.4a 3D resolutions it will accept from a source.



I would hope it would pass everything to both outputs at the same time; that way everything except the 3D blu ray player could be used for audio using hdmi on the receiver and the only optical cable connected would be for the blu ray player.


----------



## walford

If the splitter does not tell the 3DBR player that it can accept HDMI 1.4a 3D content then the 3D BR player will not send and 3D content to it.


----------



## Milmanias

According to a review of the monoprice model that Jovan posted, that particular switcher works wih 3D blu ray.


----------



## walford

Jovan posted a link to a switcher anddid not review how well it worked since i did not see any review after he purchased it and actually used it.


----------



## nc88keyz

there is a file on the nvidia 3d driver install from nvidia. It is a firmware upgrade for various Mits DLPs.


Tidbits of the code show that Mits can infact patch the 3d behavior of these sets.


Please post the 9.03 for the 833 series when available.


Would like to look at the code as well.


----------



## Jovan023

crew, i will report on the 4x2 prob friday or sat depending on delivery guy. I am using a ps3 to pass 3d, i directly hooked it to the adapter and the the TV and the settings are now locked in to 3d in ps3. It now thinks anything attatched to it is 3d unless i run the xmb to detect video again.


What I am hoping is that the 4x2 will pass the hdmi signal unchanged (no edid) and everything should work fine. I hope that will be the same case with my cable box, an SA8300 from time warner cable. keep em crossed for me


----------



## walford




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nc88keyz* /forum/post/19096858
> 
> 
> there is a file on the nvidia 3d driver install from nvidia. It is a firmware upgrade for various Mits DLPs.
> 
> 
> Tidbits of the code show that Mits can infact patch the 3d behavior of these sets.
> 
> 
> Would like to look at the code as well.



The contents of the Patch that I saw changed what appeared to bethe contents of a timing paramater used as part of the card's code and did not contain any changes to any of the logic in the code itself.


----------



## Impala1ss




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milmanias* /forum/post/19095337
> 
> 
> To get to the reviews you need to click on "rated by 2 users"
> 
> 
> Looks like a good product at a great price. The only thing I don't like is that the outputs are on each side; it'll be impossible to hide the cables unless hiding the whole thing. But somebody claims it supports a 3D blu ray player so that's a huge plus.
> 
> 
> I wonder if going through the switcher and Mits 3D adapter induces additional lag, and if it'll be obvious in games and/or movies.



The adaptor itself introduces a slight lag,


----------



## sfetaz




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfetaz* /forum/post/19065225
> 
> 
> i am having a handshake issue with my Verizon Fios TV box and the 3DA1 Adapter. I just purchased a new Denon 1611 AVR which supports 3d. I have connected my PS3, my PC and my FIOS TV box to my new receiver. I have outputed from the receiver into the 3da1 adapter. From there I output to my Mitsubishi 65737. PS3 and PC work fine in this setup, but my fios box shows a screen that says "HDMI Content Protection thru HDMI Repeater has been comprimised." When I take the 3d adapter out of the setup and output the receiver to the Tv direct the Fios works fine. Might one or more of the HDMI cables in my setup possibly not be good enough, or is there a problem with the adapter?



I have replaced the receiver in my setup and the handshake issue continues to occur with my Fios box and 3da-1 adapter when the receiver is in the mix, so I have determined it is either the Fios box or the adapter, and with the other posts I see about the similar issue I wonder if it is the adapter.


----------



## Natrix1973




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfetaz* /forum/post/19099359
> 
> 
> I have replaced the receiver in my setup and the handshake issue continues to occur with my Fios box and 3da-1 adapter when the receiver is in the mix, so I have determined it is either the Fios box or the adapter, and with the other posts I see about the similar issue I wonder if it is the adapter.



It sounds like the Fios box to me. It could be just like the Directv receivers that won't work when run through a receiver, those have to go directly into the adapter. If you plug the Fios box directly into the adapter and bypass the receiver, does it work then?


----------



## Performinnorman

I reported an issue to Mitsubishi regarding my 3D adapter. I'm awaiting there reply.


Equipment: Mitsu 82737, 3DC-1000. Sony BDP-S470


When I try to display images (jpeg) either from CD or USB Flash Drive, the images look washed out. Very noticable. However, when playing videos, it works fine. I've bypassed the 3DC-1000 converter and the images show crisp and clear.


----------



## walford

Sfetz,

Try FIOS box to adapter to receiver to TV. If that works then you know that your receiver is not passing the EDID data from the adapter to the FIOS Box. Many "3D capable" receivers will only pass 3D data upstream and not pass upstream EDID data downstream.


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrmits* /forum/post/19091425
> 
> 
> They sent a USB stick that uploaded via the front input. They also sent a return envelope which I used to send it back without thinking about copying or uploading. Doh!
> 
> 
> I was also having the blue screen problem going from 3d to 2d. Now with 9.03 i can go 2d to 3d and back with no issues.



Well I got the following response from my email to Mits:


Please call our expert representatives @ 800-332-2119 who will assist you with trouble-shooting. Our Operational Assistance Representatives are available: Monday - Friday 9am-8pm Eastern Time. Saturday 9am-5pm. Sunday 1-5pm


So I called the number and spent the last hour describing my problem, how I had it hooked up, etc etc etc. I asked about the Version 9.03 firmware and after checking with someone she said it was only to fix some minor issues and I could not get them to send me a copy..aaaaarrrrgg! They did take down my phone number, address, serial number purchase date etc to escalate the complaint and someone is supposed to call me within two days.


They tried to push me off on DirectTV but after I kept stating that this only happens if the Adapter is in the path they gave up on that... I did tell them that the forums are reporting that 9.03 fixes this problem and she promised to note that and that they would be testing to see it that was true....


----------



## ace182

I talk to mitsu today and found out that 9.03 will not help at all. The 9.03 fix does not address the HDMI issue, the 9.02 is the fix you need. I tryed to get them to send me the 9.03 and was told that it could create more problems. The 9.03 is for an know issue with cable providers and a coxial cable and the Ant A and Ant B. The person I spoke with was aware of the HDMI 3d adapter box problem and told me he would send out 9.02 and that would fix the problem.


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ace182* /forum/post/19101629
> 
> 
> I talk to mitsu today and found out that 9.03 will not help at all. The 9.03 fix does not address the HDMI issue, the 9.02 is the fix you need. I tryed to get them to send me the 9.03 and was told that it could create more problems. The 9.03 is for an know issue with cable providers and a coxial cable and the Ant A and Ant B. The person I spoke with was aware of the HDMI 3d adapter box problem and told me he would send out 9.02 and that would fix the problem.



Please let us know when you get 9.02 if it fixes the problem or not. At least the reps should be getting more familiar with this problem. Seems like it depends on who you get? I will be sure to mention this when they call me back.....Now if they were to develop a version 9.04 to give the option of turning off DLP Link we will be in business!!!!!!


----------



## ace182

It will be a few days till I know, I have to call back with my TV's serial befor they can send me the USB drive. (I was at work when I called and could not convince my wife to climb behing the TV for me)







So for those of you wishing someone would upload the file so we can all update, I think that may be an issue. The rep I talked to made it sound like they have to program them to the serial number of your specific tv. I may be wrong about that but if not someone else 9.02 file may just not work if you try it on your tv.


----------



## Muckrak3r

I got the Onkyo 608 receiver in today. Hooked everything up and did nothing to config the receiver. PS3 plugs into the 608, 608 into the 3D adapter, and the 3D adapter into my Mitsu 73C9.


I ran the auto detect for screen resolution on the PS3 and it sees my tv as 3D! So the 608 really is a 3D receiver and now my audio concerns for 3D blu-rays and 3D gaming have been put to rest. Now I just hope my Dish dvr plays nice with the 608 also.


----------



## destiny 21

good luck with that i have my fios box hooked to reciever then adapter then mits tv and is a no go blue screen and error message. 3d bluray player works great


----------



## hoddy4

So is it possible to have a usb initiated fix for the 3D color/ darkness issues on the C9s, etc?


----------



## BradP

I do want to confirm that on my 73C9 there is a noticeable brightness change as well as a very washed out look to the picture once you turn on 3D mode. Sort of makes anything you watch in 3D look bland and not pop near as well as regular tv.


I just figured this was just the price you paid for 3D.


----------



## spankynuts

Hello everyone,

I have the wd73c9 hooked up with 3dc-1000. I tried out some demos on the ps3 and I'm not that impressed. The 3D only adds depth to the game whereas I was expecting things to pop out at me. Vehicles in Motorstorm Pacific rift kick up some dirt and water that sorta pop out, but it seems likes it's out of focus. I haven't been able to try any 3d bluray movies because I'm waiting for the September update on the ps3. Is this because the technology is so new and developers dont know how to fully utiilize it yet or am I expecting too much? Are bluray movies different? Do other brands of glasses work better i.e. Optoma.. I am using a 1.3 hdmi switch with 1.3 hdmi cables... does that make a difference. Thanks!


----------



## PBSengineer

Guys, I cannot get the Comcast VOD 3D shorts to work through the 3DC1000 at all. When it's in line, the screen goes black, the adapter 3D light comes and goes and there is an occasional flash of 3D content. The TV also displays the input and resolution occasionally. Going to the menu on the TV; it only shows up occasionally. It takes some time after I stop the VOD for everything to come back. It occurs if the TV is set for 2D or 3D. If I bypass the 3DC1000, I get the VOD as over/under and the TV reports 1080p resolution.

Bad adapter? Bad TV? Bad day?


(I should point out that the 3D demo of the x-games which is side by side 3D works fine)


----------



## mrmits




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ace182* /forum/post/19101629
> 
> 
> I talk to mitsu today and found out that 9.03 will not help at all. The 9.03 fix does not address the HDMI issue, the 9.02 is the fix you need. I tryed to get them to send me the 9.03 and was told that it could create more problems. The 9.03 is for an know issue with cable providers and a coxial cable and the Ant A and Ant B. The person I spoke with was aware of the HDMI 3d adapter box problem and told me he would send out 9.02 and that would fix the problem.



I just asked for a firmware update. Actually demanded it. I knew 9.02 was out and the guy said they would send me 9.03. Don't know what issues any of the different versions solve- just know that the fw update worked for my 833. It did not cause any other problems. Good luck!


----------



## tlogan6797

PBSengineer (and any others iwth this problem) should go to this thread. There is a lot of traffic and several suggestions starting about 4 or 5 pages in.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post18763541


----------



## TViewer2000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spankynuts* /forum/post/19104010
> 
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I have the wd73c9 hooked up with 3dc-1000. I tried out some demos on the ps3 and I'm not that impressed. The 3D only adds depth to the game whereas I was expecting things to pop out at me. Vehicles in Motorstorm Pacific rift kick up some dirt and water that sorta pop out, but it seems likes it's out of focus. I haven't been able to try any 3d bluray movies because I'm waiting for the September update on the ps3. Is this because the technology is so new and developers dont know how to fully utiilize it yet or am I expecting too much? Are bluray movies different? Do other brands of glasses work better i.e. Optoma.. I am using a 1.3 hdmi switch with 1.3 hdmi cables... does that make a difference. Thanks!




I have the 73738 running through the edc-1000 adapter and I agree with your observations so far for the PS3. The directv 3D looks much better though.


----------



## spankynuts




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TViewer2000* /forum/post/19104682
> 
> 
> I have the 73738 running through the edc-1000 adapter and I agree with your observations so far for the PS3. The directv 3D looks much better though.



Thanks for confirming. I have Fios and as far as I know it only has one video on cars from wealth tv in the on demand section and that's nothing special either. Seems the 3D is a little gimmicky and not as good as it is in the theaters, but I have yet to watch any 3D bluray content. I would aslo love to fix the teal blacks and washed out colors when the tv is put into 3D mode.


----------



## Mounta1n




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TViewer2000* /forum/post/19104682
> 
> 
> I have the 73738 running through the edc-1000 adapter and I agree with your observations so far for the PS3. The directv 3D looks much better though.



Someone mentioned in another thread that the 3D in the new 3D Rift download (10 tracks for $9.99) looks better than the 3D did in the Pacific Rift 3D demo.


----------



## finallyabigtv

I have a 65C9 and the starter kit .I am in Houston,so no 3D from Comcast.However there are several 3D movies (shorts) in the on demand free movie section and I am able to watch them. I had to use reverse for the sync.I did notice some color change (teal) in the black in the menu and the picture quality is ok, not great. Passing 2D thru the adapter looks great . I have firmware 11.02.The stb from comcast is not a dvr,just a HD box.


----------



## PBSengineer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tlogan6797* /forum/post/19104513
> 
> 
> PBSengineer (and any others iwth this problem) should go to this thread. There is a lot of traffic and several suggestions starting about 4 or 5 pages in.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post18763541



Ah yes, the Comcast 3D topic. BUT, all the problems reported there with the 3dc1000 seem to be the box outputting the wrong resolution. Not my case. The Comcast box appears to be working correctly and producing 1080p TtB 3D. I can see this without the adapter. With the adapter, no joy. So, I perceive the problem to be with the 3dc1000; hence the post here. Or is here only for game 3d content?


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrmits* /forum/post/19104476
> 
> 
> I just asked for a firmware update. Actually demanded it. I knew 9.02 was out and the guy said they would send me 9.03. Don't know what issues any of the different versions solve- just know that the fw update worked for my 833. It did not cause any other problems. Good luck!



Mitsubishi just called my back to tell me that they are sending me a firmware update version 9.03 which I should have in 5 to 7 days!!!! I didn't even have to ask for it or argue. This was a call back after the issue was escallated up a level. It seems that they have this figured out!!!! He did ask for my serial number so the exact version might be serial number or batch specific? Of couse this won't fix the green tint problem but if you own a xx833 model you know how important fixing the blue screen issue is... Whooo Hoooo!!!!


----------



## pistonbrokeagain

Went to the Mits MDEA address in Irvine CA, since it's 5 minutes from my house, and they flat refused to discuss issue with me except by phone - kind of expected. Anyway called them again with original case # and had to go through complete "troubleshooting" exercise again - still no luck of course. After an incredibly long session of pulling teeth, they agreed to send me 9.03 update for my WD-73833 (as with Cleverland 5-7 days)....


Their take was that the DTV programming may not be in a format that the adapter can decode ! even after telling them that i've already viewed 3D content on channel 103 from DTV and that its pretty much a repeating trailer show for the most part and that i doubt the format will change on that (after i've already viewed it a few times). The rep was also adamant that the 9.03 update may cause a problem with my TV and since recorded call i had to agree on the phone that all risks are my responsibility !!!


Unfortunately another issue has come up which he didnt know about in that i had seen the 3D content using the DTV's HR22, which i had boorowed from another room while chasing this. Putting the newer HR24-500 back in the mix, i have not been able to see 3D at all, even with the necessary reboot / shutdown and restart of all components that worked with the HR22 !!!!


This gets uglier by the minute. Oh well, will wait for the 73833 update and try again i guess...


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PBSengineer* /forum/post/19104089
> 
> 
> Guys, I cannot get the Comcast VOD 3D shorts to work through the 3DC1000 at all. When it's in line, the screen goes black, the adapter 3D light comes and goes and there is an occasional flash of 3D content. The TV also displays the input and resolution occasionally. Going to the menu on the TV; it only shows up occasionally. It takes some time after I stop the VOD for everything to come back. It occurs if the TV is set for 2D or 3D. If I bypass the 3DC1000, I get the VOD as over/under and the TV reports 1080p resolution.
> 
> Bad adapter? Bad TV? Bad day?
> 
> 
> (I should point out that the 3D demo of the x-games which is side by side 3D works fine)



Try to manually cycle through the 3D modes on the adapter. I had to select TopnBottom mode for it to work.


----------



## bcterp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *spankynuts* /forum/post/19105089
> 
> 
> I would also love to fix the teal blacks and washed out colors when the tv is put into 3D mode.



Anyone who has concerns with this should call Mitsubishi and let them know. The more they have to hear about it the better. This should be fixed.


----------



## walford

If the current firmware in an HR22 works with 3D channels in your system I don't understand why you think it is the MIs adapters fault and not D*'s that the current firmware in your HR24 does not work with the adapter.


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pistonbrokeagain* /forum/post/19107092
> 
> 
> Went to the Mits MDEA address in Irvine CA, since it's 5 minutes from my house, and they flat refused to discuss issue with me except by phone - kind of expected. Anyway called them again with original case # and had to go through complete "troubleshooting" exercise again - still no luck of course. After an incredibly long session of pulling teeth, they agreed to send me 9.03 update for my WD-73833 (as with Cleverland 5-7 days)....
> 
> 
> Their take was that the DTV programming may not be in a format that the adapter can decode ! even after telling them that i've already viewed 3D content on channel 103 from DTV and that its pretty much a repeating trailer show for the most part and that i doubt the format will change on that (after i've already viewed it a few times). The rep was also adamant that the 9.03 update may cause a problem with my TV and since recorded call i had to agree on the phone that all risks are my responsibility !!!
> 
> 
> .




I think it depends on which rep you get. The guy I talked to was very polite did not try to trouble shoot again and did not indicated that I was on my own if it caused any problems. In fact he said if I ran into any problems to please call them back for additional help....


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pistonbrokeagain* /forum/post/19107092
> 
> 
> Unfortunately another issue has come up which he didnt know about in that i had seen the 3D content using the DTV's HR22, which i had boorowed from another room while chasing this. Putting the newer HR24-500 back in the mix, i have not been able to see 3D at all, even with the necessary reboot / shutdown and restart of all components that worked with the HR22 !!!!
> 
> 
> This gets uglier by the minute. Oh well, will wait for the 73833 update and try again i guess...



I noticed that the problem seemed to get worse with time until one day I could not get it to work at all. I am using an HR22-100. What I did to get it to work was to change the input name from Game to PC and then changed it back to Game. For some reason this helped and it actually worked correctly for two or three times before it started blue screening again...


----------



## pistonbrokeagain




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19107239
> 
> 
> If the current firmware in an HR22 works with 3D channels in your system I don't understand why you think it is the MIs adapters fault and not D*'s that the current firmware in your HR24 does not work with the adapter.



Yeah thanks walford, my original post with a bit more detail was earlier. I'm not saying anyone in particular is at fault - if i knew that answer, i probably wouldn't still be looking for other answers on this post. My original issue with the HR22 was getting 3D but then not being able to view 2D without a reboot of all components - hence the call to Mits. The HR24 now comes in the mix because i haven't seen 3D on it yet via any method. Do you work for Mistubishi ? Thanks again.


----------



## walford

No, I am retired engineer and programmer and manager who first started developing drivers in machine lanquage for multicore operating systems for the Military almost 40 years ago and I have been closly following developments for HDTV and 3D TV ever since.

The Mits adapter has several design shortfalls and very poor documentation and regretfully will probably never be upgraded or even be better documented.


----------



## pistonbrokeagain

Thanks walford, lets hope for the sake of everyone on this forum that's not the case, or there"ll be a whole lot of $400 refunds on Mits part.


----------



## BillFree

I have a WD-65735 3D-ready HDTV. I ordered the MITS kit, followed the instructions for setup,used 1.4 hdmi cables, put in demo 3D, three released 3D blu-rays in my Panasonic -350 3D player using checkerboard format, used MITS glasses & Xpand102 glasses. The 3D display is great. I find it hard to believe people are having so much problems. Its problably not always MITS fault.


----------



## PBSengineer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillFree* /forum/post/19108801
> 
> 
> I have a WD-65735 3D-ready HDTV. I ordered the MITS kit, followed the instructions for setup,used 1.4 hdmi cables, put in demo 3D, three released 3D blu-rays in my Panasonic -350 3D player using checkerboard format, used MITS glasses & Xpand102 glasses. The 3D display is great. I find it hard to believe people are having so much problems. Its problably not always MITS fault.



I'm chief engineer of a TV station. I know that to get HD & HD 3d from point a to point b takes a fairly cheap piece of coax cable. (the cable that cable comes in on would probably work.) BUT, the movie companies and RIAA are so afraid that someone might see a free movie or hear a free song _and_ because the CEA thinks consumers are idiots (close), they came up with the HDMI "standard" Everyone from the cable box manufacturers to blueray box makers to display makers must follow the specs exactly or it falls apart. Kind of like herding cats. Unfortunately, there is no error display allowed (might make a $2000 TV cost $2001) What you end up with is everyone pointing fingers. Some techs are helpful, others are not.

Glad yours was easy. Mine worked like a charm until I tried to add Comcast, then it fell apart. Mores the pity that there are so few movies out in 3D.


----------



## jheadley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mrmits* /forum/post/19104476
> 
> 
> I just asked for a firmware update. Actually demanded it. I knew 9.02 was out and the guy said they would send me 9.03. Don't know what issues any of the different versions solve- just know that the fw update worked for my 833. It did not cause any other problems. Good luck!



So far they have refused to send me an update. My menu says 9.00 on my 833. I finally got escalated to the next level yesterday so maybe now they will send me that update like I asked about weeks ago the first time I called Mits.


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BillFree* /forum/post/19108801
> 
> 
> I have a WD-65735 3D-ready HDTV. I ordered the MITS kit, followed the instructions for setup,used 1.4 hdmi cables, put in demo 3D, three released 3D blu-rays in my Panasonic -350 3D player using checkerboard format, used MITS glasses & Xpand102 glasses. The 3D display is great. I find it hard to believe people are having so much problems. Its problably not always MITS fault.



What dose the Panasonic-350 have to do with he adapter? You don't need the adapter to display 3D with 350.


----------



## mardarlene

Hello everyone

I am having the same issue as others with my 73833 giving me a blue screen when using the 3da-1 mits adapter. I recently sent the adapter to mits to test and they said nothing was wrong with the adapter and they sent it back. I asked them if they tested it with a 73833 model and "Amber" thier customer service rep said yes. I got it back and still does not work. Funny thing is I just purchased a 82838 and it works perfectly. I have played 3d games on my ps3 and the PQ is amazing.


I have purchased 2 Panasonic DMPBDT350 3D Ready Blu-ray Disc Players one for each TV. Each will play perfectly. On my 73833 when directly connected to the tv (HDMI) with CEC turned off ...and input labeled "game" will play in 3d when the "checkboard" option is turned on.....it is so cool. But when I hook it the 3da-1 ...no picture...blue screen...just sits there...same with the PS3...blue screen. Alternately when I directly connect the PS3 via HDMI with 3d mode on the PS3 detects the mits 3d display...but when I switch from 2d to 3d on the PS3 ...black screen....


Called and told this to mits customer support and had to practically threaten homocide to get them to send me the firmware update 9.03. I am at 9.00...I promise when I get it I will post it so others do not have to wait three weeks or more or call multiple times to mits no-help support. They know these TVs hasve issues...but act like you are the first to report ANY problem.

My question to the forum ....will the firmware update fix this issue?


Thanks


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mardarlene* /forum/post/19110163
> 
> 
> Hello everyone
> 
> On my 73833 when directly connected to the tv (HDMI) with CEC turned off ...
> 
> Thanks



I am running with HR22, RX V3900, WD73833 and have not found a way to turn CEC off..Is this accessed via the Reciever, DVR or TV or each of them? I read about several people turning this off and I am starting to feel kind of dumb???


----------



## Scubawoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenisG* /forum/post/19108918
> 
> 
> What dose the Panasonic-350 have to do with he adapter? You don't need the adapter to display 3D with 350.



You do need to use the adapter with the 350 if you are going to watch DIVX, etc. side by side, up and down 3D. The 350 won't output those in checkerboard.


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scubawoman* /forum/post/19110794
> 
> 
> You do need to use the adapter with the 350 if you are going to watch DIVX, etc. side by side, up and down 3D. The 350 won't output those in checkerboard.



Well thats kind of sucks.


----------



## twatkins521

Well, Mits Support agreed a few weeks back that green tint issue I had when you turn on FX Gaming on 833 series was "unusual". They agreed to send out a Tech to my home to look at the set and evaluate the situation at their expense. I was greatful since my warranty had expired. The Tech came out and verified the problem. He called Mits from my home and told him that the Color shift was very noticeable and that he would not watch it. After several "tests", one of which was to turn the color down to zero and see if the problem still exists. It did. Mits told him to order and replace the main board in the set to solve the issue. I told them to make sure the new board had the most up to date FW on it because I did not want to call them back and virtually beg them for updates. I was told no problem, the new part would be updated. I told them my current set was at FW V9.02


It took over a week for the new board to come in. The Tech came back out today and replaced the board. The first thing I did after the "repair", was to check the FW level on the new board. Mits sent a board with FW V9.00 on it. That ticked me off. The green tint issue remained and then I started to get the blue screen issue that some have reported. The Tech then asked me if he could head to his next appointment because he was late. I told him he was free to leave after putting my original board back in because the new parts made the set worse off. He put the original board back in and left saying he would report back to Mits that their suggestion did not work and what was the next step.


A couple hours later, he called back to say Mits told him that new information on the issue had become available and the issue was due to something in the manufacturing process and they had no fix at this time. I then called Mits myself to get a better explanation and they offered none, other than the set shows 3D pictures. I guess I should have read the fine print. 3D Ready as long as you want a green tint to everything. Mits did say they would escalate my issue again and call me back.


So if any others out there are hoping that replacing the main board will solve the green tint issue, it does not. Putting my old V9.02 board back in did eliminate the blue screen issue.


This is my 3rd and last Mits TV set.


----------



## mardarlene




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/19110530
> 
> 
> I am running with HR22, RX V3900, WD73833 and have not found a way to turn CEC off..Is this accessed via the Reciever, DVR or TV or each of them? I read about several people turning this off and I am starting to feel kind of dumb???



There is no option to turn off CEC on the 73833...so this must be done on each individual component...I can only speak for the blu ray players I have...there is a option under HDMI to turn control off....all others such as avr's and such I dont know...its only on the 73833 or 833 series that you have to do this to label a input as "game" or "PC" in order to be able to turn on the 3d display...with CEC on any blu ray or dvd player will identify itself to the tv and lock in the input as DVD...hope this helps


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mardarlene* /forum/post/19111524
> 
> 
> There is no option to turn off CEC on the 73833...so this must be done on each individual component...I can only speak for the blu ray players I have...there is a option under HDMI to turn control off....all others such as avr's and such I dont know...its only on the 73833 or 833 series that you have to do this to label a input as "game" or "PC" in order to be able to turn on the 3d display...with CEC on any blu ray or dvd player will identify itself to the tv and lock in the input as DVD...hope this helps



Thanks! This does help alot. I have not purchased a 3D Bluray player yet due to the lack of media, I noticed my AVR does not give me the option of turning off control only to assign it to HDMI Out 1 or 2. Since my Bluray is not 3D I still have it going thru the AVR to a second HDMI input on the TV...So when I get a 3D Bluray I will have to figure out how to turn off its control....Hopefully I will have a 3D AVR by then...


----------



## hoddy4

If you have more than one 3D input, such as Direct TV and a 3D blu-ray, do you need a switchbox between the devices and the 3D adapter in order to use the different sources?


----------



## div3r5ity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoddy4* /forum/post/19111957
> 
> 
> If you have more than one 3D input, such as Direct TV and a 3D blu-ray, do you need a switchbox between the devices and the 3D adapter in order to use the different sources?



yes , thats what i have to do , cable box and ps3. got a switcher at radioshack for 30


----------



## Zapix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *twatkins521* /forum/post/19111379
> 
> 
> So if any others out there are hoping that replacing the main board will solve the green tint issue, it does not. Putting my old V9.02 board back in did eliminate the blue screen issue.
> 
> 
> This is my 3rd and last Mits TV set.



Whew, that's a good reason for frustration. I thought the green tint I had seen went away, but after messing with alot of 3D videos I put on my PS3 last night (haha, Sony never said it couldn't play downloaded videos), I noticed that the green tint was very much there and could notice it on blacks with a bright image. Don't know if anyone else noticed but the brightness intensity changes kind of dramatically in 3D (I don't mean changing to 3D as I already know enabling FX Gaming raises the brightness and screws with the color in a bad way). I noticed this watching stuff with black boarders above and below. Sometimes it would be nearly black, other times it was brownish-amber (green without the glasses on). It changed scene by scene. I don't notice it when the picture takes up the whole screen and I'm not pounded with dark environments. Dark environments definately suffer from this.


I could see this becoming a potential annoyance over time. Granted, I know blacks won't exactly be deep blacks, but the color tint and random change in brightness per scene is kind of... Weird.


Side note... Not happy I'm getting flicker from the bulb. I just replaced it a few months ago from a mits authorized dealer >.> Wait... That could be the problem as it would seem Mits doesn't know much about their products it would seem.


Thinking I will wait a while till the bombarding calls on Mits slows down about the firmware. Then simply complain about the geometery issue. Heck my 4:3 picture is bowed anyways, looks like crap. I'll dig up other reasons a firmware upgrade would be needed and then make demands and threaten complaints or contacting the BBB (if they're a member). Love my 73833, but having paid $3400, I expect $3400 worth of quality.


----------



## mardarlene

the answer is yes...you can either get a manual (with remote...yet another remote) or auto sense HDMI switch ...that will go into the "HDMI" in of the adapter...then HDMI out on the adapter to the TV...Hope this helps


here is a link to one that I use-------------> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product


----------



## realdeal1115

Hey guys, hope you can help me.


I have the Mits WD-73837 and am interested in watching the upcoming Giants/Patriots game in 3D on Fios.


According to Mits' website, if Fios sends the signal in "checkerboard" format, then I don't need to purchase the adapter (just the glasses and emitter).


Does anyone know if Fios' signal is sent in the "checkerboard" format?


Thanks!


----------



## PaulGo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *realdeal1115* /forum/post/19113003
> 
> 
> Hey guys, hope you can help me.
> 
> 
> I have the Mits WD-73837 and am interested in watching the upcoming Giants/Patriots game in 3D on Fios.
> 
> 
> According to Mits' website, if Fios sends the signal in "checkerboard" format, then I don't need to purchase the adapter (just the glasses and emitter).
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if Fios' signal is sent in the "checkerboard" format?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



No checkerboard is not a supported broadcast format.


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *realdeal1115* /forum/post/19113003
> 
> 
> Hey guys, hope you can help me.
> 
> 
> I have the Mits WD-73837 and am interested in watching the upcoming Giants/Patriots game in 3D on Fios.
> 
> 
> According to Mits' website, if Fios sends the signal in "checkerboard" format, then I don't need to purchase the adapter (just the glasses and emitter).
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if Fios' signal is sent in the "checkerboard" format?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



No emitter required for your tv. You need dlp-link glasses like optomas or xpend. Get the optoma's btw.


----------



## walford

If FIOS will be offering the game in 3D format they will be broadcasting it in HDMI 1.4a SbS format and you will need a Mits 3D adapter to convert it to checkerboard format which your Mits TV can disaplay using DLP-link glases.

However, if you have a 2010 xx738 or xx model it is capable of receiving 1.4a SbS 3d content directly


----------



## hoddy4

I'm assuming the need for an HDMI switchbox for multiple 3D inputs will not be necessary for 2010 models once Mits comes out with the firmware upgrade.


----------



## walford

True a Mits 3D adapter will not be required for the 2010 xx738 and xx838 models if Mits does release the upddate for those models to receive all HDMI 1.4a mandatory 3D format in addition to their current capability to receive 1080p checkerboard format


----------



## ffactoryxx

Ok so I setup my Adapter and have had a ton of problems so far. Any help would be appreciated.


Cable BOX HDMI -> Adapter -> C9 TV.


1. Now whenever I have my Mistu in 3d mode and am just watching regular HBO HD or whatever, the colors are not as bright and picture doesnt look as good.


2. When switching channels using the Comcast Guide, there is a delay now and the screen sometimes goes blue for a 2nd then cuts back into the station I chose.


3. When choosing ON Demand, the tv cuts over to the Snowy screen then cuts to Ondemand.


4. When my 3D glasses are on the picture doesn't look as light as bright watching Xgames as it would if I watched just normal 2d


It seems like a lot of time the TV is trying to resync up with my Comcast box and it always flashes back and fowarth to blue screen. Any ideas?


----------



## pistonbrokeagain

Just to add some information i recieved from talking to a very helpful DTV tech regarding the ongoing blue screen 3D issues i (and others) have, with DTV > 3DC-1000 > Mits WD-xx833 tv. This may have been posted earlier but this thread is getting long. DirecTV's 3D programming is ONLY output in Side-by-Side format.


The reason i needed to know was the Mits explanation for the Blue screen issue with the adapter and xx833, was that DTV's broadcast format is probably the reason it's not working correctly. Side-by-Side however SHOULD be convertible by the 3DC-1000 to chekerboard, so i'll now wait for the 9.02/03 TV update to arrive and see if we're getting anywhere.


----------



## walford

Yes, all D* 3D programing other then ESPN-3D is broadcast in HDMI 1.4a SbS format. ESPN-3D is broadcast in 720p TnB format.

With with your xx833 in 3d mode with Game source selected if you cycle through the 3d-Mode options on the adapter remote you should be able to select SbS as the 3D source and the adapter will convert that to Checkerboard.

Does the front of your D* unit have the 720p and 1080i lights lit?


----------



## Joseph Clark




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19114721
> 
> 
> Yes, all D* 3D programing other then ESPN-3D is broadcast in HDMI 1.4a SbS format. ESPN-3D is broadcast in 720p TnB format.
> 
> With with your xx833 in 3d mode with Game source selected if you cycle through the 3d-Mode options on the adapter remote you should be able to select SbS as the 3D source and the adapter will convert that to Checkerboard.
> 
> Does the front of your D* unit have the 720p and 1080i lights lit?



Is that 1280x360 per frame then? I'm still waiting for Dish to make a 3D announcement. RUMOR has it that they will have 3D up by the end of September, but there's been no official word. If not for 2D > 3D conversion, I'd have nothing to watch but Monsters vs Aliens, Cloudy with Meatballs and a Panasonic demo disc. Fortunately, I'm really enjoying conversion, but I need more real 3D.


----------



## walford

ESPN-3d at 720p TnB format is full 1280x720 resolution per eye.


----------



## Jovan023

For the green tint 3d issue, refer to the thread called "whats wrong with 3d mode on my Mitsubishi dlp". I wrote an email to Mitsubishi and got a reply that basically said, call the 1 800 #. I would read that thread and contact/pm diamondpilot, hes trying hard to get this huge problem resolved.


Also, still waiting on my 4x2 hdmi splitter, ill let u know if it works around my Onkyo


----------



## Jovan023

For the green tint 3d issue, refer to the thread called "whats wrong with 3d mode on my Mitsubishi dlp". I wrote an email to Mitsubishi and got a reply that basically said, call the 1 800 #. I would read that thread and contact/pm diamondpilot, hes trying hard to get this huge problem resolved.


Also, still waiting on my 4x2 hdmi splitter, ill let u know if it works around my Onkyo


----------



## realdeal1115




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *realdeal1115* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Hey guys, hope you can help me.
> 
> 
> I have the Mits WD-73837 and am interested in watching the upcoming Giants/Patriots game in 3D on Fios.
> 
> 
> According to Mits' website, if Fios sends the signal in "checkerboard" format, then I don't need to purchase the adapter (just the glasses and emitter).
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if Fios' signal is sent in the "checkerboard" format?
> 
> 
> Thanks!





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/19113361
> 
> 
> No emitter required for your tv. You need dlp-link glasses like optomas or xpend. Get the optoma's btw.




Can you point me to a link to the optomas?


Also, just curious why Mits' website seems to indicate I do need the emitter.. ?


Thanks again!


----------



## pistonbrokeagain




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19114721
> 
> 
> Yes, all D* 3D programing other then ESPN-3D is broadcast in HDMI 1.4a SbS format. ESPN-3D is broadcast in 720p TnB format.
> 
> With with your xx833 in 3d mode with Game source selected if you cycle through the 3d-Mode options on the adapter remote you should be able to select SbS as the 3D source and the adapter will convert that to Checkerboard.
> 
> Does the front of your D* unit have the 720p and 1080i lights lit?



walford - the only light on the DTV reciever is 1080i when on a DTV 3D channel. Had the whole day to play around and finally got DTV 3D content (Golf) up and running on the 73833 Mits with 3Dc-1000 adapter and DTV HR24-500. Required complete power down of DTV DVR, while tuned to 3D channel (103), on restart had to select the SbS mode on adapter and then all ok. Could even change channel to non-3D station and back to 3D - all ok. Without doubt, a bizarre handshake - initialisation sequence issue.


Unfortunately, when switching to PS3 via HDMI switch, in same TV mode and input - blue screen only ! Bit by bit, getting there, appreciate all the feedback and experience on this forum.


Edit: on changing PS3 to a different input on Mits TV (again after complete reboot), got PS3 back up, but had a regular video loss / sound "clunk" every 5 seconds or so..


----------



## lujan

I just recently got the 3D adapter and a 1.4 Denon receiver but still have the Mits 73833 so I might have problems viewing regular TV with the adapter. What is the best way to hook up the adapter in my situation? I would like to use the TV's HDMI 1 for regular TV and HDMI 2 (Game) for 3D. I think I will need the HDMI switch but not sure between what and what? BTW, the Denon receiver has 6 HDMI inputs so I have extra inputs if I need them. Thanks for the help! Oh also, the two sources for 3D would be a blu-ray player and a TiVo/Comcast. I would like it set up for the next ESPN showing on 9/6.


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/19116155
> 
> 
> I just recently got the 3D adapter and a 1.4 Denon receiver but still have the Mits 73833 so I might have problems viewing regular TV with the adapter. What is the best way to hook up the adapter in my situation? I would like to use the TV's HDMI 1 for regular TV and HDMI 2 (Game) for 3D. I think I will need the HDMI switch but not sure between what and what? BTW, the Denon receiver has 6 HDMI inputs so I have extra inputs if I need them. Thanks for the help! Oh also, the two sources for 3D would be a blu-ray player and a TiVo/Comcast. I would like it set up for the next ESPN showing on 9/6.



What is it, do people only visit these forums during the week when they're at work?


----------



## silver91342

Just a quick note: It is confirmed working on a 73835 - PS3>3dc-1000>TV


PS3 picked it up on input #2 so I assume it works on all of them. No green tint just a dimmer picture, which is the same as turning on 3D without the kit. The auto on feature works great and the adapter comes on with the PS3 (no need to use the adapter remote), The emitter is hooked to the TV and comes on whenever 3D is turned on. I didn't hook the emitter to the adapter as it doesn't work unless the sync cable is ran from the TV to the adapter. All PSN demo's work great and no blue screens when switching back to any other modes.


WD73835- FW 010.06/PS3- FW 3.41


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/19117652
> 
> 
> What is it, do people only visit these forums during the week when they're at work?



LOL - You could have tried all combinations by now to see what works best for you with your particular set up.










I would start with source -> adapter -> TV for each 3D source you have, just to make sure your cables and equipment work before you go on to the next level - adding the Denon in the path. That way you will know if the Denon is the source should you have any issues when you add it.


In a perfect world, you would set up your system as if you did not have 3D and/or the adapter. That is, all of your sources to the Denon, and then the Denon to the TV. Then insert the adapter between the Denon and the TV to see if the Denon speaks nicely with everything else.


All of the devices need to be able to speak to each other in both directions, so adding them in one at a time until you have a problem will make it easy to see which component is creating the issue.


If you make it all the way to the end with everything hooked up and no issues, congrats!


If not, then you may need one of the splitters as mentioned earlier. Just be sure to get one that has been used with success here.


I guess the bottom line is go ahead and try the different combinations to see what works. You can't hurt anything by trying.


Good luck!


----------



## PBSengineer

I finally got my adapter to work with the VOD movies on Comcast. Turns out that the adaptor will _not_ work with a 1080p24 signal. Once I dis-allowed that resolution, everything works. Now for the raised green black level when the TV is in 3D.


BTW. Isn't 1080p24 supposed to be supported? Should be; I can foresee that many movies would be that way. The TV will use it, but the adapter will not.


----------



## Jovan023

Just to update, got the 4x2 hdmi matrix and it can indeed pass 3d without any problem. My current issue is that my cable box is a twc scientific atlanta and will not function with my tv. Also my avr (onkyo 807 ) is crashing with the split hdmi signal that I was using only for audio when my ps3 is playing 3d games. My only solution now I think will be toslink optical cables for audio because my Onkyo dies when getting the 3d bluray hdmi signal. this really sucks, but at this point I'm so fed up I just want to be able to watch freaking tv.


If anyone has any advice on how to make the Onkyo not crash when using this signal I could really use it


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Athlon646464* /forum/post/19118194
> 
> 
> LOL - You could have tried all combinations by now to see what works best for you with your particular set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would start with source -> adapter -> TV for each 3D source you have, just to make sure your cables and equipment work before you go on to the next level - adding the Denon in the path. That way you will know if the Denon is the source should you have any issues when you add it.
> 
> 
> In a perfect world, you would set up your system as if you did not have 3D and/or the adapter. That is, all of your sources to the Denon, and then the Denon to the TV. Then insert the adapter between the Denon and the TV to see if the Denon speaks nicely with everything else.
> 
> 
> All of the devices need to be able to speak to each other in both directions, so adding them in one at a time until you have a problem will make it easy to see which component is creating the issue.
> 
> 
> If you make it all the way to the end with everything hooked up and no issues, congrats!
> 
> 
> If not, then you may need one of the splitters as mentioned earlier. Just be sure to get one that has been used with success here.
> 
> 
> I guess the bottom line is go ahead and try the different combinations to see what works. You can't hurt anything by trying.
> 
> 
> Good luck!



Thanks Athlon646464! I don't want to use the "Game" input for all other non-3D programming because of the washed out look when changing to FXGaming in the TV menu so that's why I'm thinking of using a switch.


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/19119852
> 
> 
> Thanks Athlon646464! I don't want to use the "Game" input for all other non-3D programming because of the washed out look when changing to FXGaming in the TV menu so that's why I'm thinking of using a switch.



NP - Please let us know how you finally get it all to work for you. Good Luck.


----------



## George Omoregie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jovan023* /forum/post/19119806
> 
> 
> Just to update, got the 4x2 hdmi matrix and it can indeed pass 3d without any problem. My current issue is that my cable box is a twc scientific atlanta and will not function with my tv. Also my avr (onkyo 807 ) is crashing with the split hdmi signal that I was using only for audio when my ps3 is playing 3d games. My only solution now I think will be toslink optical cables for audio because my Onkyo dies when getting the 3d bluray hdmi signal. this really sucks, but at this point I'm so fed up I just want to be able to watch freaking tv.
> 
> 
> If anyone has any advice on how to make the Onkyo not crash when using this signal I could really use it



Greetings:

Please provide the brand name and link of the 4X2 switch that works with 3D.

Thanks.

Ekpen


----------



## Milmanias




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jovan023* /forum/post/19119806
> 
> 
> Just to update, got the 4x2 hdmi matrix and it can indeed pass 3d without any problem. My current issue is that my cable box is a twc scientific atlanta and will not function with my tv. Also my avr (onkyo 807 ) is crashing with the split hdmi signal that I was using only for audio when my ps3 is playing 3d games. My only solution now I think will be toslink optical cables for audio because my Onkyo dies when getting the 3d bluray hdmi signal. this really sucks, but at this point I'm so fed up I just want to be able to watch freaking tv.
> 
> 
> If anyone has any advice on how to make the Onkyo not crash when using this signal I could really use it



Thanks on the confirmation that the 4x2 works with 3d blu ray. I'm not sure why the cable box wouldn't work, but I have Dish Network and they don't even have anything in 3D yet...and college football starts this week










That's the problem with the 1.3 receivers; they can't extract 1.4 frame packed 3d video signals. You will need the toslink for 3D blu ray movies, but the purpose of the switcher is to allow the lossless audio when watching 2D signals with relative ease instead of manually bypassing the receiver when wanting to watch a 3D movie. The only way we know now to not make your existing receiver crash is by getting a dual hdmi output player, but that is more $ down the drain. It was thought that getting a Gefen HDMI spoofer after the Mits adapter and before the 1.3 receiver would allow the receiver to decode the lossless audio, but it was later found out that the audio was 2.0. Mitsubishi screwed the pooch by requiring the adapter to have to be connected directly to the tv.


----------



## Milmanias




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *George Omoregie* /forum/post/19120052
> 
> 
> Greetings:
> 
> Please provide the brand name and link of the 4X2 switch that works with 3D.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Ekpen



Based on an earlier post this is the switch I think he bought
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2


----------



## Jovan023

 http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 


this is the 4x2 i used. Ill let you know how the toslink works out too, the two cables are in the mail as i type. I wish i couldve kept the lossless, but one of the members here said in a "blinded" hearing test they were indistinguishable.


----------



## Chris Grant




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *George Omoregie* /forum/post/19120052
> 
> 
> Greetings:
> 
> Please provide the brand name and link of the 4X2 switch that works with 3D.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Ekpen



I believe this is the 4X2 Matrix Jovan023 was referring to:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...=2#description 


Jovan023: Will this matrix allow the same input to be switched to both outputs? I have a different 4X2 that requires a *different* input for each output, which isn't what I had in mind!


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jovan023* /forum/post/19120194
> 
> 
> I wish i couldve kept the lossless, but one of the members here said in a "blinded" hearing test they were indistinguishable.



Personally, I feel there is a very obvious difference between lossy 5.1, and lossless up to 7.1. I too have temporarily switched to the legacy digital connections to view 3d, but this is a temporary situation that I won't accept as a long term solution.


----------



## Impala1ss




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ffactoryxx* /forum/post/19113970
> 
> 
> Ok so I setup my Adapter and have had a ton of problems so far. Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> 
> Cable BOX HDMI -> Adapter -> C9 TV.
> 
> 
> 1. Now whenever I have my Mistu in 3d mode and am just watching regular HBO HD or whatever, the colors are not as bright and picture doesnt look as good.
> You should not be in TV's 3-D mode when watching non-3-D channels.. The only 3-D channels are 103-106.
> 
> 
> 
> 2. When switching channels using the Comcast Guide, there is a delay now and the screen sometimes goes blue for a 2nd then cuts back into the station I chose.
> Normal
> 
> 
> 
> 3. When choosing ON Demand, the tv cuts over to the Snowy screen then cuts to Ondemand.
> 
> Normal. The adaptor puts a delay in for som e reason.
> 
> 
> 4. When my 3D glasses are on the picture doesn't look as light as bright watching Xgames as it would if I watched just normal 2d
> There is a real problem with Mitsu. glasses. May never be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> It seems like a lot of time the TV is trying to resync up with my Comcast box and it always flashes back and fowarth to blue screen. Any ideas?



xxxx


----------



## Jovan023

Chris Grant: yup, the 4x2 will take input one, for example and will output it from both A and B


Question, will the toslink optical not do ANY 7.1?? if so, then it wont be acceptable....


Anyone familiar with onkyo receivers? I just want to pull the audio out of the HDMI and no video, the video will make my reciever crash as I found out last night? Please let me know if anyone knows how to do this (I tried just taking the HDMI cable out and disable any video output that was going thru it but it didnt work). Thanks


----------



## Mounta1n




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jovan023* /forum/post/19120691
> 
> 
> Chris Grant: yup, the 4x2 will take input one, for example and will output it from both A and B
> 
> 
> Question, will the toslink optical not do ANY 7.1?? if so, then it wont be acceptable....
> 
> 
> Anyone familiar with onkyo receivers? I just want to pull the audio out of the HDMI and no video, the video will make my reciever crash as I found out last night? Please let me know if anyone knows how to do this (I tried just taking the HDMI cable out and disable any video output that was going thru it but it didnt work). Thanks



Perhaps reassign that HDMI input as CD or something like that. I think you can reassign inputs. If you reassign it as an audio-only type of input, perhaps it will ignore the video.


----------



## Jovan023

Great idea, now if I can just skip out of work and try it


----------



## bdaley6509

Guys, I have two of these kits for sale without the Disney DVD for $259 each shipped. E-mail me @ [email protected] . I also have the Cloudy with a chance of Meatballs that I'll throw in for $12. Everything is in like new condition. I just need the money to fund another hobby. Thanks.


----------



## mardarlene

Hey everyone

I just recieved the FW 9.03 and updated my 723833...when I turned it on and turned on the 3d mode with the mits adapter and my ps3 ....IT WORKED...but hold on...the picture started to flicker and went out and in...the the sound would also go out and in...also heard a few LOUD popping noises I have never heard before...SO heres what I did.


1. MENU - 2 4 7 0 chose the initiatize feature and reset the TV settings to factory

2. setup all inputs again

3. MENU 2 4 5 7 made sure the shutter function is set to "ON"


IT ALL WORKS AND SOUNDS ...AWESOME...


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mardarlene* /forum/post/19122942
> 
> 
> Hey everyone
> 
> I just recieved the FW 9.03 and updated my 723833...when I turned it on and turned on the 3d mode with the mits adapter and my ps3 ....IT WORKED...but hold on...the picture started to flicker and went out and in...the the sound would also go out and in...also heard a few LOUD popping noises I have never heard before...SO heres what I did.
> 
> 
> 1. MENU - 2 4 7 0 chose the initiatize feature and reset the TV settings to factory
> 
> 2. setup all inputs again
> 
> 3. MENU 2 4 5 7 made sure the shutter function is set to "ON"
> 
> 
> IT ALL WORKS AND SOUNDS ...AWESOME...



Great to know!


Are you able to make a copy of that file?


----------



## pistonbrokeagain




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mardarlene* /forum/post/19122942
> 
> 
> Hey everyone
> 
> I just recieved the FW 9.03 and updated my 723833...when I turned it on and turned on the 3d mode with the mits adapter and my ps3 ....IT WORKED...but hold on...the picture started to flicker and went out and in...the the sound would also go out and in...also heard a few LOUD popping noises I have never heard before...SO heres what I did.
> 
> 
> 1. MENU - 2 4 7 0 chose the initiatize feature and reset the TV settings to factory
> 
> 2. setup all inputs again
> 
> 3. MENU 2 4 5 7 made sure the shutter function is set to "ON"
> 
> 
> IT ALL WORKS AND SOUNDS ...AWESOME...



Excellent news for us 73833 owners with same issues, waiting on my update usb stick anytime. Thanks for posting mardarlene.


----------



## div3r5ity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scubawoman* /forum/post/19046742
> 
> 
> In my past experience with Onkyo tech. support they are worthless. You will likely continue to get the run-around and told it isn't an Onkyo problem.
> 
> 
> You can either get the Gefen HDMI detective and program it for a receiver that will pass 3D signal (I don't know how to do it as it isn't a problem for me).
> 
> 
> The easiest solution is to get a HDMI switch (I have the Octava 5x1 and 3x1 and they are compatible with 3D and work well) and use 1 output to your avr and the other to the 3D adapter. You will then need to hook up audio using optical if your cable box has it so you will use your avr for audio when using 3D but your tv for video. So if you don't want 3D you'll use your avr as your switcher for audio and video. When you want 3D use your avr for sound only and then change the input on your tv to the adapter.
> 
> That's how I have my Directv dvr connected and it works without any issue.



well i got everything working! i had to buy 2 hdmi splitters(sewelldirect.com) and an hmdi switch(radioshack auvio) for 3dc adapter and everything is working perfectly.


----------



## Natrix1973




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Athlon646464* /forum/post/19123225
> 
> 
> Great to know!
> 
> 
> Are you able to make a copy of that file?



If it is like the older Mitsubishi DLP firmware, it is deleted off the memory stick after installing it on the TV.


----------



## ffactoryxx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Impala1ss* /forum/post/19120570
> 
> 
> xxxx



Thanks!


So you are saying the glasses are dark? How about other brands?


Will Mitsu do a swap or it a known issue that is fixable?


----------



## ffactoryxx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pistonbrokeagain* /forum/post/19123531
> 
> 
> Excellent news for us 73833 owners with same issues, waiting on my update usb stick anytime. Thanks for posting mardarlene.



Whats this update everyone is waiting on. Does my C9 Need it?


----------



## mardarlene




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Athlon646464* /forum/post/19123225
> 
> 
> Great to know!
> 
> 
> Are you able to make a copy of that file?



I tried to copy the contents of the usb...but it was empty...I even tried to reveal hidden files and folders...still nothing...I had planned on posting the file for all to use...but Mitsubishi is crafty....as NATRIX1973 states...it must have been erased after installation...there must be a small kernal that reads and runs a script during flashing...you never turn the TV on ...just unplug and plug the TV in to begin the upgrade...in a way Misubishi is probably gathering metrics by sending out the FW on USB...for what I dont know...my guess is that any 833 series owners that are trying to display 3d content and have either FW 9.00, 9.01,9.02 will have issues. Its seems idiotic to me (and others) to have to run through the amount of frustration that I have had to endure...this whole process...waiting for the starter kit....not being able to buy extra emitters...thinking the adapter was faulty...sending in the adapter...finding out that the adapter was not the issue. If it wasnt for the fact that I bought a NEW 82838 and TOLD mitsubishi that everything worked on my 82838 and not my 73833...I think I would still be getting the run around. Most other manafacturers readily post firmware updates for their products ...just to avoid this exacxt issue...I love my TV's and watching 3d...but will think twice or three times before deciding to purchase another Mitsubishi TV


----------



## George Omoregie




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Chris Grant* /forum/post/19120198
> 
> 
> I believe this is the 4X2 Matrix Jovan023 was referring to:
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...=2#description
> 
> 
> Jovan023: Will this matrix allow the same input to be switched to both outputs? I have a different 4X2 that requires a *different* input for each output, which isn't what I had in mind!



Chris;

The switch that may not be what you are looking for is probably the type I want.

I want to tie my htpc to this switch and make it independent of the main system. This is like Zone 1 and Zone 2 type of setup.


My Pioneer Elite SC-09 has two HDMI "OUTS", at time of manufacture, one "OUT" works at a time, we have been waiting for Pioneer to give us a firmware upgrade to enable HDMI "OUT2". It is like pulling one's tooth. Update not coming.


So give me name or link to the switch you have, so that I can read more about it.

If it is what will work on my Pioneer , I will probably get it.

Thanks.

Ekpen.


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mardarlene* /forum/post/19124621
> 
> 
> I tried to copy the contents of the usb...but it was empty...I even tried to reveal hidden files and folders...still nothing...I had planned on posting the file for all to use...but Mitsubishi is crafty....as NATRIX1973 states...it must have been erased after installation...there must be a small kernal that reads and runs a script during flashing...you never turn the TV on ...just unplug and plug the TV in to begin the upgrade...in a way Misubishi is probably gathering metrics by sending out the FW on USB...for what I dont know...my guess is that any 833 series owners that are trying to display 3d content and have either FW 9.00, 9.01,9.02 will have issues. Its seems idiotic to me (and others) to have to run through the amount of frustration that I have had to endure...this whole process...waiting for the starter kit....not being able to buy extra emitters...thinking the adapter was faulty...sending in the adapter...finding out that the adapter was not the issue. If it wasnt for the fact that I bought a NEW 82838 and TOLD mitsubishi that everything worked on my 82838 and not my 73833...I think I would still be getting the run around. Most other manafacturers readily post firmware updates for their products ...just to avoid this exacxt issue...I love my TV's and watching 3d...but will think twice or three times before deciding to purchase another Mitsubishi TV



Thanks. Perhaps someone will make a copy before they do the update. It is frustrating.......


----------



## Impala1ss




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ffactoryxx* /forum/post/19124035
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> So you are saying the glasses are dark? How about other brands?
> 
> 
> Will Mitsu do a swap or it a known issue that is fixable?



To me, the Mitsu. glasses are like wearing sunglasses. Don't know why they were designed that way but most are complaining about them. Mitsu. is loudly silent on the issue.


----------



## BradP

I am too starting to get frustrated that it seems like Mitsus older than 2009 will never give us a way to turn off the DLP Link. I've had to order the Viewsonic glasses to compensate.


I agree that the Mitsu and Samsung glasses (I got both) darken things up a bit and that stinks as well. But we're in the infancy of 3D so I guess this is just what we get.


I'm just a little disappointed that I didn't wait for the 2010 Mitsu TVs since they rightfully have the option to turn off the DLP Link in the firmware like the 2009's should offer as well, major oversight there. I hate with DLP link with the Mitsu glasses does to the blacks, it really is a crime.


----------



## mrmits




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mardarlene* /forum/post/19122942
> 
> 
> Hey everyone
> 
> I just recieved the FW 9.03 and updated my 723833...when I turned it on and turned on the 3d mode with the mits adapter and my ps3 ....IT WORKED...but hold on...the picture started to flicker and went out and in...the the sound would also go out and in...also heard a few LOUD popping noises I have never heard before...SO heres what I did.
> 
> 
> 1. MENU - 2 4 7 0 chose the initiatize feature and reset the TV settings to factory
> 
> 2. setup all inputs again
> 
> 3. MENU 2 4 5 7 made sure the shutter function is set to "ON"
> 
> 
> IT ALL WORKS AND SOUNDS ...AWESOME...



Well now that's 2 of us that have 9.03 that fixed the blue screen issue. Mitsubishi are you listening? It shouldn't be this difficult to get a FW update.


I will think 2x before getting another Mitsubishi TV- and this is my 4th one.


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BradP* /forum/post/19125097
> 
> 
> I am too starting to get frustrated that it seems like Mitsus older than 2009 will never give us a way to turn off the DLP Link. I've had to order the Viewsonic glasses to compensate.
> 
> 
> I agree that the Mitsu and Samsung glasses (I got both) darken things up a bit and that stinks as well. But we're in the infancy of 3D so I guess this is just what we get.
> 
> 
> I'm just a little disappointed that I didn't wait for the 2010 Mitsu TVs since they rightfully have the option to turn off the DLP Link in the firmware like the 2009's should offer as well, major oversight there. I hate with DLP link with the Mitsu glasses does to the blacks, it really is a crime.



All 3D glasses reduce light transmission by about 65% (+/-5%).


----------



## Scubawoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *div3r5ity* /forum/post/19123867
> 
> 
> well i got everything working! i had to buy 2 hdmi splitters(sewelldirect.com) and an hmdi switch(radioshack auvio) for 3dc adapter and everything is working perfectly.



Glad you get it working. I think it is worth it. Now if we could just get some 3D blu-rays to watch.


----------



## div3r5ity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scubawoman* /forum/post/19126198
> 
> 
> Glad you get it working. I think it is worth it. Now if we could just get some 3D blu-rays to watch.



hell yeah or some games


----------



## Jovan023

Guys does anyone know of an HDMI splitter that can split the audio and video signal into two separate HDMIs? Scubawoman informed me that her Panny 3D BD player has 2 jacks, one HDMI audio only and one HDMI both, she runs one to the reciever and one two her splitter. This would be the perfect solution for me.


----------



## steelers1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mardarlene* /forum/post/19124621
> 
> 
> I tried to copy the contents of the usb...but it was empty...I even tried to reveal hidden files and folders...still nothing...I had planned on posting the file for all to use...but Mitsubishi is crafty....as NATRIX1973 states...it must have been erased after installation...there must be a small kernal that reads and runs a script during flashing...you never turn the TV on ...just unplug and plug the TV in to begin the upgrade...in a way Misubishi is probably gathering metrics by sending out the FW on USB...for what I dont know...my guess is that any 833 series owners that are trying to display 3d content and have either FW 9.00, 9.01,9.02 will have issues. Its seems idiotic to me (and others) to have to run through the amount of frustration that I have had to endure...this whole process...waiting for the starter kit....not being able to buy extra emitters...thinking the adapter was faulty...sending in the adapter...finding out that the adapter was not the issue. If it wasnt for the fact that I bought a NEW 82838 and TOLD mitsubishi that everything worked on my 82838 and not my 73833...I think I would still be getting the run around. Most other manafacturers readily post firmware updates for their products ...just to avoid this exacxt issue...I love my TV's and watching 3d...but will think twice or three times before deciding to purchase another Mitsubishi TV



mardarlene: so when you upgraded your tv did it solve your problems? i have a wd-65833 tv and i just want to make shure this update is doing the job. thanks have a nice day.


----------



## lurkor

Has anyone tested FW 9.03 with an Nvidia 3d vision setup on an xx833 setup? While I'm curious of seeing GT5 in 3d via PS3, I'm not willing to trade the experience for over 400 PC games that function well. There has to be a reason Mits is reluctant to send out this update that we are unaware of yet.


----------



## mardarlene




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steelers1* /forum/post/19126617
> 
> 
> mardarlene: so when you upgraded your tv did it solve your problems? i have a wd-65833 tv and i just want to make shure this update is doing the job. thanks have a nice day.



Steelers1: Yes the FW upgrade solved the problem...but you may have to endure so picture image flickering with the mits adapter....I am using it with my PS3 only...and the 3d games are awesome...addictive...Now if they would only put out more 3d blu ray movies


----------



## Natrix1973

I received the 9.03 upgrade for my 73833 set today and can confirm that it also fixed my issues between the TV and the adapter/PS3/Directv. No more blue screens, everything switches as it should. I am going to call Mitsubishi tomorrow and confirm my findings with them to hopefully make it easier for others to get the firmware upgrade.


----------



## pistonbrokeagain




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Athlon646464* /forum/post/19124842
> 
> 
> Thanks. Perhaps someone will make a copy before they do the update. It is frustrating.......



Athlon - my usb upgrade due any day, bit of a catch 22 here, i'd like to get my 73833 up and running with the update, since 3 responders now have reported it as a fix, however would also like to be able to share the file....Do you think that reading the usb drive to enable copying it, could render the update file no good afterwards, since it apparently self-destroys after TV install ? If anyone has good input that this won't be the case, i'm willing to be the Guinea Pig to try it....


----------



## Zapix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pistonbrokeagain* /forum/post/19128307
> 
> 
> Athlon - my usb upgrade due any day, bit of a catch 22 here, i'd like to get my 73833 up and running with the update, since 3 responders now have reported it as a fix, however would also like to be able to share the file....Do you think that reading the usb drive to enable copying it, could render the update file no good afterwards, since it apparently self-destroys after TV install ? If anyone has good input that this won't be the case, i'm willing to be the Guinea Pig to try it....



I don't see it erasing itself from a PC since the file in question can't be properly run and executed by a computer. Like firmware upgrades for say... a bluray player, the file is designed to be run under whatever software the bd player has that reads it. In the case of the TV, it's not running some major OS. Likely the TV auto reads the USB card, finds the fw update, runs it. a PC will not even autoload it.


On that note, my guess is you will either find nothing on the usb stick to copy, or the file will somehow be useless (ie some kind of program file that will only work on your TV based on the serial number). Would perhaps explain why these updates can't be found online to begin with. I could be wrong though.


----------



## steelers1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mardarlene* /forum/post/19127860
> 
> 
> Steelers1: Yes the FW upgrade solved the problem...but you may have to endure so picture image flickering with the mits adapter....I am using it with my PS3 only...and the 3d games are awesome...addictive...Now if they would only put out more 3d blu ray movies



thanks for your answer. how did you contact them by phone or email and what is the best way to get them to send it to you. so the ones that needs this it will make it better for us. if by phone what is the phone number. thanks have a nice day.


----------



## pistonbrokeagain




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steelers1* /forum/post/19128502
> 
> 
> thanks for your answer. how did you contact them by phone or email and what is the best way to get them to send it to you. so the ones that needs this it will make it better for us. if by phone what is the phone number. thanks have a nice day.



E-mail gets this response, be ready with serial number and TV model when you talk to them...

_Thank you for contacting Mitsubishi Digital Electronics America, Inc.

We are pleased to be able to assist our customers via our website.


Please call our expert representatives @ 800-332-2119 who will assist

you with trouble-shooting. Our Operational Assistance Representatives

are available: Monday - Friday 9am-8pm Eastern Time. Saturday 9am-5pm.

Sunday 1-5pm_


----------



## mardarlene




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pistonbrokeagain* /forum/post/19128526
> 
> 
> E-mail gets this response, be ready with serial number and TV model when you talk to them...
> 
> _Thank you for contacting Mitsubishi Digital Electronics America, Inc.
> 
> We are pleased to be able to assist our customers via our website.
> 
> 
> Please call our expert representatives @ 800-332-2119 who will assist
> 
> you with trouble-shooting. Our Operational Assistance Representatives
> 
> are available: Monday - Friday 9am-8pm Eastern Time. Saturday 9am-5pm.
> 
> Sunday 1-5pm_



Thanks Pistonbrokeagain....Steelers1...when you call they are going to have you go through alot of nonsense...changing input names ...turning off CEC...useless stuff...insist ...on the FW upgrade....or you will get the runaround for about a week with all the promised callbacks....DO NOT SEND THEM YOUR ADAPTER TO TEST!....waste of time and your money shipping....ask to speak to a supervisor and be prepared to send him posts from this forum to support your claims....Good Luck


----------



## steelers1

maradine & pistonbrokeagain thanks for your help and information iam going to get on it. with all eight pistons flaming.


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pistonbrokeagain* /forum/post/19128526
> 
> 
> E-mail gets this response, be ready with serial number and TV model when you talk to them...
> 
> _Thank you for contacting Mitsubishi Digital Electronics America, Inc.
> 
> We are pleased to be able to assist our customers via our website.
> 
> 
> Please call our expert representatives @ 800-332-2119 who will assist
> 
> you with trouble-shooting. Our Operational Assistance Representatives
> 
> are available: Monday - Friday 9am-8pm Eastern Time. Saturday 9am-5pm.
> 
> Sunday 1-5pm_



I have a 1.4 compatible receiver and am getting the blue screen when connected to the adapter. I called Mitsubishi and was kept on hold most of the time for over 30 minutes and they finally said they would sent the update. Also while I was on hold, I switched to the blu-ray source where I do get a picture because it's on a different HDMI input direct from the source and not through the adapter, the picture kept flashing and the screen would get light and darker as if the glasses were turning off and then back on. Does anyone know if this is fixed by the firmware update as well?


----------



## mardarlene




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/19131519
> 
> 
> I have a 1.4 compatible receiver and am getting the blue screen when connected to the adapter. I called Mitsubishi and was kept on hold most of the time for over 30 minutes and they finally said they would sent the update. Also while I was on hold, I switched to the blu-ray source where I do get a picture because it's on a different HDMI input direct from the source and not through the adapter, the picture kept flashing and the screen would get light and darker as if the glasses were turning off and then back on. Does anyone know if this is fixed by the firmware update as well?



Lujan: Please provide a few more details.

1. Is your blu ray source 3d...and..you were playing a 3d movie? Have you successfully watched a 3d movie prior to the flashing ..or is it the first time

2. did you take the emitter from the back of the adapter and plug it directly into the tv.

3. what is your current FW.


The glasses once powered on will work until it no longer "sees" the emitter signal ...then it auto turns off..after a few moments.


The adapter is USELESS until the update...in my case the Panasonic DMP-BDT350 played 3d movies direct HDMI into the TV no problems with FW 9.00 with emitter plug directly into tv with samsumg/mits glasses......

I then tried top plug the player(output in "checkboard format" into the adapter....blue screen


Please ensuire your HMDI cables are cat 2 high speed hdmi cables...that may take care of the picture flicker as other non cat 2 HDMI cables cannot carry the "bandwidth" or the amount of information effectively from your player to the TV...this may help....Good Luck


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mardarlene* /forum/post/19131864
> 
> 
> Lujan: Please provide a few more details.
> 
> 1. Is your blu ray source 3d...and..you were playing a 3d movie? Have you successfully watched a 3d movie prior to the flashing ..or is it the first time
> 
> *Yes, it's the panny 300. Yes, when I had it connected directly to the TV without the adapter, I had no flashing or glasses turning on/off.*
> 
> 
> 2. did you take the emitter from the back of the adapter and plug it directly into the tv.
> 
> *Yes, it works fine that way.*
> 
> 
> 3. what is your current FW.
> 
> *9.01*
> 
> 
> The glasses once powered on will work until it no longer "sees" the emitter signal ...then it auto turns off..after a few moments.
> 
> 
> The adapter is USELESS until the update...in my case the Panasonic DMP-BDT350 played 3d movies direct HDMI into the TV no problems with FW 9.00 with emitter plug directly into tv with samsumg/mits glasses......
> 
> I then tried to plug the player(output in "checkboard format" into the adapter....blue screen
> 
> 
> Please ensuire your HMDI cables are cat 2 high speed hdmi cables...that may take care of the picture flicker as other non cat 2 HDMI cables cannot carry the "bandwidth" or the amount of information effectively from your player to the TV...this may help....Good Luck



I don't think it's the cables since it works fine without the adapter.


----------



## PBSengineer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mardarlene* /forum/post/19131864
> 
> 
> The adapter is USELESS until the update...in my case the Panasonic DMP-BDT350 played 3d movies direct HDMI into the TV no problems with FW 9.00 with emitter plug directly into tv with samsumg/mits glasses......
> 
> I then tried top plug the player(output in "checkboard format" into the adapter....blue screen



Probably because the adapter will not do 1080p24. The 3d Bluray and the TV will with no problem, hence it works without the adapter. If you change the Panasonic to output 1080p30, the adapter will work there, but it's really not needed. You will need it for anything not checkerboard output and you will apparently need the FW upgrade to use it then.


Isn't technology just so much fun?


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PBSengineer* /forum/post/19131902
> 
> 
> Probably because the adapter will not do 1080p24. The 3d Bluray and the TV will with no problem, hence it works without the adapter. If you change the Panasonic to output 1080p30, the adapter will work there, but it's really not needed. You will need it for anything not checkerboard output and you will apparently need the FW upgrade to use it then.
> 
> 
> Isn't technology just so much fun?



So the update will correct it so that it works with 1080p24?


----------



## mardarlene




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/19131899
> 
> 
> I don't think it's the cables since it works fine without the adapter.



Based on your responses...the FW 9.03 should solve your problems...as far as the cables ...I had the some issues with picture flicker...until I got the high speed cables...now no more issues... I am not an expert but I believe that if you get to 3d gaming...ie PS3 ...you may have picture issues with lesser cables...Good luck


----------



## TimDugan

Although Mits says they only have 9.02, when installed the set says 9.03. Seems to fix most problems, although audio through HDMI gets lost on occasion. Switching around brings it back.


Zipped file is a little over 14Meg and too big to post here. UPS from Mits is pretty fast. Takes some talking as they say firmware has nothing to do with 3D.


----------



## PBSengineer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/19131914
> 
> 
> So the update will correct it so that it works with 1080p24?



According to the posts here, the FW upgrade fixes problems with the TV/adapter/DTV issues.


The adapter that I have will not pass 1080p24 from Comcast (TtB) but sort of passes it from my LG 3d BlueRay with issues.


We are the alpha testers... Mits and others will use us to work out the bugs so that they can really push 3D for Christmas.


----------



## jheadley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Natrix1973* /forum/post/19127890
> 
> 
> I received the 9.03 upgrade for my 73833 set today and can confirm that it also fixed my issues between the TV and the adapter/PS3/Directv. No more blue screens, everything switches as it should. I am going to call Mitsubishi tomorrow and confirm my findings with them to hopefully make it easier for others to get the firmware upgrade.



Congrats. Mitsubishi still refuses to send me the update. The people I get on the phone tell me there is no 9.03 update and that my issue is still being looked at and someone will get back to me. I've been calling all week and nobody will send me the update. I don't think my next tv will be a mits.


----------



## destiny 21

i also get the blue screen when connecting my onkyo 608 the mits adapter then out to my new mits 73838. do you think this update will fix that. also where can i get the update


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *destiny 21* /forum/post/19132646
> 
> 
> i also get the blue screen when connecting my onkyo 608 the mits adapter then out to my new mits 73838. do you think this update will fix that. also where can i get the update



Uh, see post #1720 above..........


----------



## GTarrant




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jheadley* /forum/post/19132368
> 
> 
> Congrats. Mitsubishi still refuses to send me the update. The people I get on the phone tell me there is no 9.03 update and that my issue is still being looked at and someone will get back to me. I've been calling all week and nobody will send me the update. I don't think my next tv will be a mits.



I spoke to a Mits reps today on the phone and I have the 9.03 update being sent out to me. I stated that on these forums serveral users who had the same problems as me had thier issues resolved with the 9.03 update. The TV I have is the 73833. Hopefully this will work because the only thing I can watch is the Disney disk that came with the adapter


----------



## ace182

_Hey everyone

I just recieved the FW 9.03 and updated my 723833...when I turned it on and turned on the 3d mode with the mits adapter and my ps3 ....IT WORKED...but hold on...the picture started to flicker and went out and in...the the sound would also go out and in...also heard a few LOUD popping noises I have never heard before...SO heres what I did.


1. MENU - 2 4 7 0 chose the initiatize feature and reset the TV settings to factory

2. setup all inputs again

3. MENU 2 4 5 7 made sure the shutter function is set to "ON"


IT ALL WORKS AND SOUNDS ...AWESOME..._

Is any one else haveing this problem? I am having a similar issue. I have my reciver running through the 3d1000 and its 1.4 HDMI. No mater what source runs through it I get screen flicker from time to time, 3D on the PS3 sometimes does it real bad. I also get it when Im useing the xbox as well. I didnt have it before I had the adapter 3d1000 in the mix. I am running 9.03 on my 73833 and it did it when I had 9.01 as well. Would the above fix do anything for my problem or is it unrelated to the problem hes having. (Puting a quote would not work for me so I copied and pasted his response)


----------



## mardarlene




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ace182* /forum/post/19133129
> 
> _Hey everyone
> 
> I just recieved the FW 9.03 and updated my 723833...when I turned it on and turned on the 3d mode with the mits adapter and my ps3 ....IT WORKED...but hold on...the picture started to flicker and went out and in...the the sound would also go out and in...also heard a few LOUD popping noises I have never heard before...SO heres what I did.
> 
> 
> 1. MENU - 2 4 7 0 chose the initiatize feature and reset the TV settings to factory
> 
> 2. setup all inputs again
> 
> 3. MENU 2 4 5 7 made sure the shutter function is set to "ON"
> 
> 
> IT ALL WORKS AND SOUNDS ...AWESOME..._
> 
> Is any one else haveing this problem? I am having a similar issue. I have my reciver running through the 3d1000 and its 1.4 HDMI. No mater what source runs through it I get screen flicker from time to time, 3D on the PS3 sometimes does it real bad. I also get it when Im useing the xbox as well. I didnt have it before I had the adapter 3d1000 in the mix. I am running 9.03 on my 73833 and it did it when I had 9.01 as well. Would the above fix do anything for my problem or is it unrelated to the problem hes having. (Puting a quote would not work for me so I copied and pasted his response)



ACE182: thanks for reposting my post...lol....I had issues will screen and sound flicker problems before the FW update and....for me...it was my HDMI cables...I had to upgrade to cat 2 high speed HDMI...no more flicker...hope this helps good luck


----------



## mardarlene




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Athlon646464* /forum/post/19132671
> 
> 
> Uh, see post #1720 above..........



destiny 21...you should not be having any issues with a NEW mits tv...I have a new 82838...and I have had NO problems with anything...the FW update in this forum is for the 833 series and will not work on the 838 series...seeing that many people are having issues with recievers and some avr's I think...I am no expert...that the output format of the reciever is incompatible with the adapter....MITS puts that disclaimer on the side of the adapter box...the input signal from the reciever must be "negotiated" with the adapter...look in the mits adapter user guide it lists all if the display resolutions and formats that it will accept...you may have to research what output format your reciever supports...good luck ...


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjhuiz* /forum/post/19086622
> 
> 
> Anyone know when the PS3 will get the BR update in September?



Looks like now you may want to rephrase that question, but with an "October" at the end.


----------



## sfetaz

I finally fixed my handshake issues with my Fios box and Denon Receiver by getting an HDMI Switching adapter and using it to switch between receiver and Fios. I connected the Fios box to the receiver via Coax. Now I have 3d on both my Fios and my PS3.


----------



## NSX1992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfetaz* /forum/post/19137977
> 
> 
> I finally fixed my handshake issues with my Fios box and Denon Receiver by getting an HDMI Switching adapter and using it to switch between receiver and Fios. I connected the Fios box to the receiver via Coax. Now I have 3d on both my Fios and my PS3.



Since I have the same problem could you ellaborate? What is a coax cable and what terminals on each device did you use? Which HDMI Switching adaptor? Do you get 5.1 surround sound in 2D and/or 3D? Exactly where is the switcher and what does it do? Thanks


My setup is Fios to new Integra DTR-30.2(HDMI1.4) to 3DC-1000 to 82837.I can't even get 2D with that setup. By bypassing the AVR 3D works(Mercedes restored cars on demand clip) but only TV sound. Both PS3 and Xbox360 show 3D with the AVR connected.


I have spent days rereading every post in this thread for a solution. Talking to Mitsubishi, Integra and Verizon resulted in each one blaming the other. It appears that HDMI 1.4 has problems with handshakes.


For those of you including me that thought upgrading your 1.3 AVRs to 1.4 would solve all problems that is not the case. I am willing to return my Integra for a Denon 891 if someone (besides rad) has made it work.


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NSX1992* /forum/post/19139320
> 
> 
> Since I have the same problem could you ellaborate? What is a coax cable and what terminals on each device did you use? Which HDMI Switching adaptor? Do you get 5.1 surround sound in 2D and/or 3D? Exactly where is the switcher and what does it do? Thanks
> 
> 
> My setup is Fios to new Integra DTR-30.2(HDMI1.4) to 3DC-1000 to 82837.I can't even get 2D with that setup. By bypassing the AVR 3D works(Mercedes restored cars on demand clip) but only TV sound. Both PS3 and Xbox360 show 3D with the AVR connected.
> 
> 
> I have spent days rereading every post in this thread for a solution. Talking to Mitsubishi, Integra and Verizon resulted in each one blaming the other. It appears that HDMI 1.4 has problems with handshakes.
> 
> 
> For those of you including me that thought upgrading your 1.3 AVRs to 1.4 would solve all problems that is not the case. I am willing to return my Integra for a Denon 891 if someone (besides rad) has made it work.



Since neither switches or splitters produce EDIDs, one HDMI 1.3 switch and one 1.3 spltter should enable any 1.4 AVR to bypass problem sources, as well as the 3D adapter for 2D:


problem sources > switch box > splitter > 3d adapter >TV input 1


nonproblem sources > AVR > switch box > splitter >TV input 2


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmalter0* /forum/post/19139554
> 
> 
> Since neither switches or splitters produce EDIDs...



Simple 1 by X switches typically don't, but splitters generally do. Older splitters often simply passed on the EDID info of whatever display was connected to port 1. But that could result in the source sending a signal that wasn't compatible with the display(s) connected to other port(s). Most switches now seem to have switched to a behavior of dynamically creating EDID info based the common capabilities of whatever is connected to them.


----------



## jheadley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steelers1* /forum/post/19128792
> 
> 
> maradine & pistonbrokeagain thanks for your help and information iam going to get on it. with all eight pistons flaming.



That's what I had to do. After mailing them my adapter, getting a service guy out to verify I had it connected correctly, and a lot of phone calls and yelling; they finally are going to send me 9.03 that supposedly didn't exist.


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/19139630
> 
> 
> Simple 1 by X switches typically don't, but splitters generally do. Older splitters often simply passed on the EDID info of whatever display was connected to port 1. But that could result in the source sending a signal that wasn't compatible with the display(s) connected to other port(s). Most switches now seem to have switched to a behavior of dynamically creating EDID info based the common capabilities of whatever is connected to them.



It appears from what you say that the issue would be solved by connecting the adapter to the correct splitter output.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmalter0* /forum/post/19139675
> 
> 
> It appears from what you say that the issue would be solved by connecting the adapter to the correct splitter output.



The problem is, finding one that still operates that way. I have one that does, but it's an older splitter that doesn't pass audio, so it defeats the purpose. I have a newer 1.3 splitter, but it apparently doesn't pass the EDID info. For new splitters, it's very difficult to find out how they handle EDID info without buying them and trying them out. You have a choice of getting a reasonably priced splitter that is typically a re-brand of some Chinese source, with very little detailed documentation regarding such details, or you can spend a lot more on one from someone like Geffen or Octava that either documents this functionality, or has sufficient pre-sales support where you can find out.


----------



## dreaux

Directv (Espn3D) is showing the Va tech and Boisey State football game in 3D this coming Monday night...or at least that is what the guide says.


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/19139744
> 
> 
> The problem is, finding one that still operates that way. I have one that does, but it's an older splitter that doesn't pass audio, so it defeats the purpose. I have a newer 1.3 splitter, but it apparently doesn't pass the EDID info. For new splitters, it's very difficult to find out how they handle EDID info without buying them and trying them out. You have a choice of getting a reasonably priced splitter that is typically a re-brand of some Chinese source, with very little detailed documentation regarding such details, or you can spend a lot more on one from someone like Geffen or Octava that either documents this functionality, or has sufficient pre-sales support where you can find out.



The splitter should get here today or Monday, so I'll let you know. Div3r5ity got his switch/splitter setup to work; but he used two of each. So far, my $13 switch works fine selecting between two 3D sources.


----------



## Scubawoman

The Octava switch and Monoprice splitter I have works with 3D without any problem. I've posted the links before but will again in case someone wants to check them out.

http://www.octavainc.com/HDMI%20switch%203port.htm 


Octava also has a 5x1 HDMI switch if someone needs more inputs which I suspect would work as well with 3D.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2


----------



## sfetaz

I connected my Fios box to a monoprice splitter in port 1. I connect my AVR output to Port 2. I output the spiltter to the 3d adapter, and that to the TV. From my Fios box I connect via Coax (you can also use optical) to the AVR.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2


----------



## JackBarry

sfetaz, Does your Fios box have HDMI outputs? If so why did you need to connect your Fios box via Co-AX to the AVR? Why not connect the Fios box via HDMI to the AVR? Do you have Dolby 5.1 Surround coming out of your AVR?


----------



## JackBarry

Scubawoman, I wanted to verify that the Splitter from MonoPrice.com is the 1X2 Pro Series Powered HDMI Splitter (1.3 ATC Certified @$59.58.


I have a Mitsu WD 73738 (2010 Model) which accepts Side by Side and Letterbox. Do you think that the new Panasonic Blu-ray player that has 2 outputs can be connected 1 output to the AVR and one directly to the Mitsu TV will work? In addition connecting the Direct TV receiver to the MonoPrice Powered Splitter with one out to the TV and one out to the AVR. I am concerned about getting Dolby 5.1 Surround when using the Direct TV Rec and Dts HD when using the Blu-ray from my Onkyo Pre-Amp.


Thanks for your insight.


----------



## sfetaz

As I stated a while ago, I was having an HDCP handshake issue connecting the Fios box via HDMI to the AVR and the AVR to the 3d adapter, causing picture not to work. Connecting things direct one way or the other caused no problem, just when fios is connected to AVR then to 3d adapter. So my current setup is a workaround to that issue, and since I have a Logitech Harmony remote its very easy to switch everything with a button press.


----------



## NSX1992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sfetaz* /forum/post/19141683
> 
> 
> I connected my Fios box to a monoprice splitter in port 1. I connect my AVR output to Port 2. I output the spiltter to the 3d adapter, and that to the TV. From my Fios box I connect via Coax (you can also use optical) to the AVR.
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2



I finally understand by drawing a diagram that you are eliminating connecting Fios directly with AVR and thus avoiding the handshake problem. I ordered the splitter and another HDMI cable for $40.63 shipped. Thanks.


----------



## walford

That is because the box sfetaz got according to the link is powered remote controled switch it is not a spllitter.


----------



## Scubawoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JackBarry* /forum/post/19142388
> 
> 
> Scubawoman, I wanted to verify that the Splitter from MonoPrice.com is the 1X2 Pro Series Powered HDMI Splitter (1.3 ATC Certified @$59.58.
> 
> 
> I have a Mitsu WD 73738 (2010 Model) which accepts Side by Side and Letterbox. Do you think that the new Panasonic Blu-ray player that has 2 outputs can be connected 1 output to the AVR and one directly to the Mitsu TV will work? In addition connecting the Direct TV receiver to the MonoPrice Powered Splitter with one out to the TV and one out to the AVR. I am concerned about getting Dolby 5.1 Surround when using the Direct TV Rec and Dts HD when using the Blu-ray from my Onkyo Pre-Amp.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your insight.



I am posting this from another person I posted this to earlier in this thread:


The easiest solution is to get a HDMI switch (I have the Octava 5x1 and 3x1 and they are compatible with 3D and work well) and use 1 output to your avr and the other to the 3D adapter. You will then need to hook up audio using optical if your cable box has it so you will use your avr for audio when using 3D but your tv for video. So if you don't want 3D you'll use your avr as your switcher for audio and video. When you want 3D use your avr for sound only and then change the input on your tv to the adapter.

That's how I have my Directv dvr connected and it works without any issue. I get 5.1 through the avr.


With the 350 you don't need a splitter. If you want to watch more than blu-ray 3d you would need a switcher to connect your dvr and 350 to the adapter then the adapter to the tv. You use the main HDMI on the 350 to connect to the switch, you use the sub HDMI on the 350 to connect to your avr so you will get lossless audio as long as you turn sub v off in the setup menu in the 350.


The links for the switch and splitter I am using are in my post above.


----------



## JackBarry

I am posting this from another person I posted this to earlier in this thread:


The easiest solution is to get a HDMI switch (I have the Octava 5x1 and 3x1 and they are compatible with 3D and work well) and use 1 output to your avr and the other to the 3D adapter. You will then need to hook up audio using optical if your cable box has it so you will use your avr for audio when using 3D but your tv for video. So if you don't want 3D you'll use your avr as your switcher for audio and video. When you want 3D use your avr for sound only and then change the input on your tv to the adapter.

That's how I have my Directv dvr connected and it works without any issue. I get 5.1 through the avr.


With the 350 you don't need a splitter. If you want to watch more than blu-ray 3d you would need a switcher to connect your dvr and 350 to the adapter then the adapter to the tv. You use the main HDMI on the 350 to connect to the switch, you use the sub HDMI on the 350 to connect to your avr so you will get lossless audio as long as you turn sub v off in the setup menu in the 350.


The links for the switch and splitter I am using are in my post above.



With all due respect I don't think this addresses my questions. I don't think that you need a switch for the new Panasonic Blu-ray player since outputs checkerbox which the Mitsu WD-73837 accepts it has 2 outputs that one can be used for the AVR to handle the audio.

The other question is utilizing a splitter not a switch for the Direct TV receiver taking the audio to the AVR and the Video directly to the Mitsu Adaptor and connecting to the TV. In theory this should work, I was just asking whether you think this will work based on your post about using a splitter to your older Mitsu. Keep in mind that the new Mitsu accepts side by sid and checkerbox and the Panasonic Blu-ray outputs checkerboard and has 2 outputs - 1 for audio and 1 for video.


----------



## walford

If you use a splitter make sure it is one where you can control the EDID data it provides to the input source, since D* will only output 3D content if it gets the EDID data from the adapter.


----------



## JackBarry

Walford, Thanks for your reply. How can you determine beforehand whether the splitter will provide the DTV receiver with the correct EDID data from the Mitsu Adaptor? Can you cite any splitters that will provide the necessary data back to the DTV Receiver? Does the splitter need to be powered?


----------



## Scubawoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JackBarry* /forum/post/19143679
> 
> 
> With all due respect I don't think this addresses my questions. I don't think that you need a switch for the new Panasonic Blu-ray player since outputs checkerbox which the Mitsu WD-73837 accepts it has 2 outputs that one can be used for the AVR to handle the audio.
> 
> The other question is utilizing a splitter not a switch for the Direct TV receiver taking the audio to the AVR and the Video directly to the Mitsu Adaptor and connecting to the TV. In theory this should work, I was just asking whether you think this will work based on your post about using a splitter to your older Mitsu. Keep in mind that the new Mitsu accepts side by sid and checkerbox and the Panasonic Blu-ray outputs checkerboard and has 2 outputs - 1 for audio and 1 for video.



I don't know anything about your display so maybe you should check in the thread for your tv for more info. I do not offer suggestions on things unless I know for a fact it will work. Since I don't know anything about your display I would't want to speculate and lead you down the wrong path.


Regarding the Pansonic 350, I did answer your question not taking into account the type of display you have. If you want to watch more than blu-ray 3d you would need a switcher to connect your dvr and 350 to the adapter then the adapter to the tv unless the 350 will pass through the 3d from files for your display to convert side by side. The 350 will only output checkerboard for blu-ray 3d, not for other types of 3d files that you may have. I don't know if the 350 will pass through the 3d from files for your display to convert side by side so possibly you wouldn't need a switch then either. If it won't then you would need a switch. If you are planning on playing above and below 3d files then you definitely need a switch regardless of the display you have.


----------



## Scubawoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JackBarry* /forum/post/19144526
> 
> 
> Walford, Thanks for your reply. How can you determine beforehand whether the splitter will provide the DTV receiver with the correct EDID data from the Mitsu Adaptor? Can you cite any splitters that will provide the necessary data back to the DTV Receiver? Does the splitter need to be powered?



You would have to call the manufacturer to ask or check the forum to see what splitters people have had success with. Information I have extensively reviewed would indicate only powered splitters would be appropriate for your intent. I have posted this information elsewhere in this thread in the past. I can confirm without any hestitation the splitter I linked to in my prior post will work if your have Directv dvr. I can't speak for cable or other satellite services equipment.


----------



## JackBarry

Since the 2010 Mitsubishi 738 and 838 models accept Side by Sde 3D signals and Direct TV provides Side by Side, is the Mitsubishi Adaptor connected to the TV actually needed and if so Why?


----------



## walford

DirecTV does not recoonize the xx738 and xx838 models for 3D since these models do not currently support all of the HDMI 1.4a mandatory 3D formats. Also ESPN-3D on cable channels and on D* uses 720p Tnb and not SbS 3D format.


See the following D* link::

http://support.directv.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/2754


----------



## JackBarry

Walford, thanks, that is the best most concise information that I have come across.


----------



## john stephens




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JackBarry* /forum/post/19142388
> 
> 
> Scubawoman, I wanted to verify that the Splitter from MonoPrice.com is the 1X2 Pro Series Powered HDMI Splitter (1.3 ATC Certified @$59.58.
> 
> 
> I have a Mitsu WD 73738 (2010 Model) which accepts Side by Side and Letterbox. Do you think that the new Panasonic Blu-ray player that has 2 outputs can be connected 1 output to the AVR and one directly to the Mitsu TV will work? In addition connecting the Direct TV receiver to the MonoPrice Powered Splitter with one out to the TV and one out to the AVR. I am concerned about getting Dolby 5.1 Surround when using the Direct TV Rec and Dts HD when using the Blu-ray from my Onkyo Pre-Amp.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your insight.



Jack,


I have the Panasonic 350 and D* HR24. Yes, the panasonic can be connected directly to the TV in checkerboard mode, with its second HDMI port set to deliver Audio only to the AVR. That works. What I have not been able to get working, is to get a powered switch/splitter to work similarly on a D* HDMI Feed. For D*, I've had to resort to using a Toslink optical feed for the digital Audio, while connecting the HDMI to the adapter(in my case, to a laservue TV). I did try using a Monoprice 4 by 2 switch/ splitter.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *john stephens* /forum/post/19148169
> 
> 
> I've had to resort to using a Toslink optical feed for the digital Audio



I also use Toslink for audio from a D* receiver. Is there any reason that using this setup is not adequate for you?


AFAIK, D* is only 5.1 dolby digital audio so I don't see how there is any drawback to using Toslink to the AVR in place of HDMI.


With the PS3 situation, I get it. 5.1/7.1 lossless audio via HDMI to the AVR is definitely worth the hassle of using a splitter, but with D* I'm not sure I see any drawbacks to Toslink.


----------



## JackBarry

I can think of a big one - you lose the Room Correction capability of AVRs that have this capability.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19148304
> 
> 
> ... but with D* I'm not sure I see any drawbacks to Toslink.



It just depends on your setup. Separating the audio and video chains can cause lip sync issues if there are more delays in one path relative to the other. From what I understand, the Mits adapter imparts a slight delay, and some receivers definitely do, particularly those with Audyssey processing. They may cancel either other out, or one could be more than the other. It's also an issue if you distribute the signal to other rooms. I do this for "TV parties"... if I have a bunch of people over, I'll use the DVR in the "main" room as the source, and I have an HDMI distribution amp downstream of the receiver. Not possible if the DVR now has to be directly connected to the Mits adapter, which has to be directly connected to the TV.


----------



## JackBarry

Jack,


( I have the Panasonic 350 and D* HR24. Yes, the panasonic can be connected directly to the TV in checkerboard mode, with its second HDMI port set to deliver Audio only to the AVR. That works. What I have not been able to get working, is to get a powered switch/splitter to work similarly on a D* HDMI Feed. For D*, I've had to resort to using a Toslink optical feed for the digital Audio, while connecting the HDMI to the adapter(in my case, to a laservue TV). I did try using a Monoprice 4 by 2 switch/ splitter.)


John,


Can you cite the Name and Model # of the powered Switch/Splitter that does not work with the Direct TV receiver?


----------



## john stephens




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JackBarry* /forum/post/19148366
> 
> 
> Jack,
> 
> 
> ( I have the Panasonic 350 and D* HR24. Yes, the panasonic can be connected directly to the TV in checkerboard mode, with its second HDMI port set to deliver Audio only to the AVR. That works. What I have not been able to get working, is to get a powered switch/splitter to work similarly on a D* HDMI Feed. For D*, I've had to resort to using a Toslink optical feed for the digital Audio, while connecting the HDMI to the adapter(in my case, to a laservue TV). I did try using a Monoprice 4 by 2 switch/ splitter.)
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> 
> Can you cite the Name and Model # of the powered Switch/Splitter that does not work with the Direct TV receiver?



Jack,


Yes, the switch was a Monoprice 4 in 2 out HDMI Matrix Switcher; Model # HDX-420X


----------



## john stephens




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19148304
> 
> 
> I also use Toslink for audio from a D* receiver. Is there any reason that using this setup is not adequate for you?
> 
> 
> AFAIK, D* is only 5.1 dolby digital audio so I don't see how there is any drawback to using Toslink to the AVR in place of HDMI.
> 
> 
> With the PS3 situation, I get it. 5.1/7.1 lossless audio via HDMI to the AVR is definitely worth the hassle of using a splitter, but with D* I'm not sure I see any drawbacks to Toslink.



NO I don't see any disadvantages to this hook up in my case. MY AVR is a Denon 3806 and as far as I can recall, it does apply room EQ to all of its input Audio sources. It has been a few years since I set thix AVR up, so my memory of it's capabilities might be flawed. In any case, it was much easier for me to gain access to a Toslink port than any other possible hookup I might make. I simply disconnected the Toslink fiber from an old Oppo DVD player that has been used in years. Tacked on, a toslink extender with a few more feet of length sufficient to reach the D* box. I didn't have to pull out the AVR at all.


----------



## JackBarry

Onkyo requires an HDMI input to utilized their Audyssey room correction.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JackBarry* /forum/post/19148472
> 
> 
> Onkyo requires an HDMI input to utilized their Audyssey room correction.



Really? I didn't see that in my manual. On which page of the manual is it stated?


----------



## Darin

I wasn't aware of that either. I thought everything was converted to digital, and processed the same (with the possible exception of the 7.1 analog input)


----------



## id10tech

Pre-Ordered my adapter kit from HSN via Mits (drama many many pages ago) and missed the 2 extra glasses promo after the official release.


Long story short: Emailed Mits and they obliged me with the extra two pairs










*4 pairs of glasses and adapter kit now


----------



## walford

According to the note in section 2 on page 23 of the 508 user's manual the only time HDMI out from the receiver is requried to set up using Audyssey is when you want to use the TV onscreen display otherwise you can set it up using the display on the front of the 508 itself. See:

http://filedepot.onkyousa.com/Files/...1612d515b114b1


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19151611
> 
> 
> According to the note in section 2 on page 23 of the 508 user's manual the only time HDMI out from the receiver is requried to set up using Audyssey is when you want to use the TV onscreen display



He's saying that Audyssey processing is only applied to audio that arrived via HDMI _inputs_.


----------



## PBSengineer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Augerhandle* /forum/post/19107214
> 
> 
> Try to manually cycle through the 3D modes on the adapter. I had to select TopnBottom mode for it to work.



Tried that, but the adapter was locked up. Turns out that the adapter will not except the 1080p24 from the Comcast box. I told it to change and now I can view the extremely awful demos that Comcast has up.


Thanks for the help.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19144588
> 
> 
> Also ESPN-3D on cable channels and on D* uses 720p Tnb and not SbS 3D format.



It has been my experience that D* always outputs SBS 3D, even for ESPN. So, while ESPN may format the 3D in top-bottom, D* must be converting it to SBS.


Last night's Boise St vs. VT game was a prime example. While watching it in 3D on D*, I also pulled it up on my laptop via Direct2PC to see what format the D* box was actually outputting and it was in SBS.


By the way, I thought football in 3D was good, which should help sell some 3D equipment.


----------



## Av8tr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PBSengineer* /forum/post/19152814
> 
> 
> Tried that, but the adapter was locked up. Turns out that the adapter will not except the 1080p24 from the Comcast box. I told it to change and now I can view the extremely awful demos that Comcast has up.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help.



How does one cycle through modes on the adapter? I've never seen any on screen displays. It's always just been this boring box that sits behind my TV. Is there a way to confirm what it's doing?


----------



## PBSengineer




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Av8tr* /forum/post/19156529
> 
> 
> How does one cycle through modes on the adapter? I've never seen any on screen displays. It's always just been this boring box that sits behind my TV. Is there a way to confirm what it's doing?



There's a button on the remote (only two: on/off & 3d mode) and also on the front of the adapter. When you push either it cycles between normal, SbS & TtB. Each change displays a brief little box on screen showing the mode. There is a fairly large delay in changing modes.


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PBSengineer* /forum/post/19156632
> 
> 
> There's a button on the remote (only two: on/off & 3d mode) and also on the front of the adapter. When you push either it cycles between normal, SbS & TtB. Each change displays a brief little box on screen showing the mode. There is a fairly large delay in changing modes.



This is what I would expect to see but I also do not see it on my WD 73833 tv..I wonder if this is related to the other problems with the blue screen etc. I am expecting my firmware update to arrive today so I will be interested in testing this..


As a side note I have read several negative comments on Mitsubishi customer service and can't help but wonder why I have recieved such excellent customer service form them. I made one call, they promised a call back within 2 days, they called me back and told me that they were sending the new firmware. I went to Florida for 8 days and when I get back they had left me a phone message with a UPS tracking number and said my firmware should arrive on Tuesday (today). I have been very impressed with the customer service, especially when compared to others. ( like Samsung)!!!


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/19156704
> 
> 
> This is what I would expect to see but I also do not see it on my WD 73833 tv..I wonder if this is related to the other problems with the blue screen etc. I am expecting my firmware update to arrive today so I will be interested in testing this..
> 
> 
> As a side note I have read several negative comments on Mitsubishi customer service and can't help but wonder why I have recieved such excellent customer service form them. I made one call, they promised a call back within 2 days, they called me back and told me that they were sending the new firmware. I went to Florida for 8 days and when I get back they had left me a phone message with a UPS tracking number and said my firmware should arrive on Tuesday (today). I have been very impressed with the customer service, especially when compared to others. ( like Samsung)!!!



I would be interested in what you notice after the firmware update. Mine is supposed to be coming to me on Thursday. I have the same model TV.


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/19157519
> 
> 
> I would be interested in what you notice after the firmware update. Mine is supposed to me to me on Thursday. I have the same model TV.



I will be posting with the results after firmware update..a couple of people have already posted that the results are excellent!!! Got my fingers crossed!!!!!!







Yikes UPS just arrived!!!


----------



## Cleverland

Well I just finished installing FW 9.03 on my WD 73833 and no more blue screen! Video switches correctly every time (well at least the 8 or 10 times I tried) So we have one more confirmed blue screen fix with Firmware Upgrade. Note I followed instructions to the letter but it only took about 1 minute to upgrade firmware instead of 3 to 5 minutes the instructions indicated and the TV came on automatically but did not display the message the instructions said would be displayed. I thought I had somehow screwed up. But after I removed the USB device, pluged the TV back in and turned back on I went to Menu and it showed 9.03 and the blue screen issue is fixed. So I guess their instructions are not exactly right.....? But at least this fixes the blue screen which as an absolute pain!!!!


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/19157772
> 
> 
> Well I just finished installing FW 9.03 on my WD 73833 and no more blue screen! Video switches correctly every time (well at least the 8 or 10 times I tried) So we have one more confirmed blue screen fix with Firmware Upgrade. Note I followed instructions to the letter but it only took about 1 minute to upgrade firmware instead of 3 to 5 minutes the instructions indicated and the TV came on automatically but did not display the message the instructions said would be displayed. I thought I had somehow screwed up. But after I removed the USB device, pluged the TV back in and turned back on I went to Menu and it showed 9.03 and the blue screen issue is fixed. So I guess their instructions are not exactly right.....? But at least this fixes the blue screen which as an absolute pain!!!!



That's good to know, thanks!


----------



## pistonbrokeagain

9.03 Update fixed my blue screen issues today on 75833, same note as Cleverland - about a minute upgrade and when TV turned on automatically, no confirm message but it did update. I made a copy of all the files on the USB stick before running it, theres 271 files, in all about 17mB. I copied them to pC in the same directory strcture as they were on the stick. If someone has a ftp site, i can post them to that. Did not see any file that appears to be TV serial number - specific.... Also Mits called me to ask if it fixed the issue, so by now they should know it does.


----------



## Cleverland

I think we need to give MRMITS a big round of applause! If I remember correctly he was the one who first demanded a firmware update, not knowing if it would fix the problem or not. When he shared his success with 9.03 we all started asking for it and now Mitsubishi is finally starting to cooperate by sending the update. This is a great example of how effective these forums can be!!! Thank You MRMITS!!!!!


----------



## steelers1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cleverland* /forum/post/19158732
> 
> 
> i think we need to give mrmits a big round of applause! If i remember correctly he was the one who first demanded a firmware update, not knowing if it would fix the problem or not. When he shared his success with 9.03 we all started asking for it and now mitsubishi is finally starting to cooperate by sending the update. This is a great example of how effective these forums can be!!! Thank you mrmits!!!!!



+1


----------



## dublus

Apologies if this question has been covered here already. Searched quite a bit and didn't see this variation of the problem.


I have DirecTV HR21-700, Mistubishi 73C9, 3DC-1000 adapter and glasses (no Blu-ray yet)


3D worked great from Saturday night (when I got the adapter) until yesterday morning when we were greeted with "This program cannot be viewed because this TV is not 3D capable". We had watched the Boise State, Virginia Tech game the night before and everything seemed quite normal and nothing was touched between that time and the morning. Now, no matter what I do we get that message. I've reset the TV (menu 1-2-3), reset and even forced a firmware update to the D* box, unplugged everything for a while and plugged back in - no change.


When selecting 3D content from either the recorded items list or from the guide the screen blanks out a couple times like it did before but then instead of showing the selected program, we get the error message so it appears that there is at least an attempt to complete the handshake. One thing that I don't remember from before is while it is blanking out, for a brief moment the screen flashes to static. If it did that before I didn't notice it but I think I would have because I was very intently noting what was happening the first few times I turned on any 3D content.


My hunch is that something has happened to the adapter but, of course, I don't have another one to swap in. All of the other discussions I could find on this subject were cases where the failure message was there from the beginning, but in this case everything worked great for two days.


I fully expected (hoped) to find many other D* customers here trying to find out what happened to their 3D because my first thought was that D* released an update that messed things up. I was leaning that direction because some of the verbiage on the screens is different than it was before when doing things like trying to record 3D content when the D* box thinks your system is not 3D capable. Before it would say something like "This program may not record because...", now it says something like, "Are you sure you want to record this program..." and the program will record now where in the past it wouldn't.


I am truly at my whits end after staying up half the night with this. Is there anything else I can do without another adapter to swap in?


----------



## dublus

Yes, the power light is on but, if I remember correctly, the 3D light is only on when I switch it off of the proper setting (i.e., SBS). I had wondered how significant that was.


----------



## Darin

Without another 3d source to test, it's difficult to say whether it's your adapter, or just another example of how DirecTV's overzealous (and sometimes flaky) scrutiny of whether or not to pass a 3d signal. Just to cover your bases, I would go ahead and post in this thread .


----------



## dublus

Thank you for the link - I will see what I can find there.


----------



## Darin

You may not find any direct answers, but that is supposedly where issues are being monitored, and hopefully addressed.


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dublus* /forum/post/19161317
> 
> 
> Yes, the power light is on but, if I remember correctly, the 3D light is only on when I switch it off of the proper setting (i.e., SBS). I had wondered how significant that was.



After thinking about this a little more, the power light would have to be on since the adapter must be turned on all the time to pass the signal though to the tv.. I assume the 3D channels are grayed on the guide since the DVR does not sense a 3D device? Which would indicate that the DVR is not receiving the proper EDID information from the adapter. Sorry the only thing I can think of is to recycle the adaptor and DVR which you have already done.


----------



## dublus

I just called my wife and asked her to unplug the adapter so it can "rest" until I go home for lunch. You never know...


And yes, the 3D channels are grayed out in the guide. Interestingly, they were grayed out in the guide when I first attached the adapter last Saturday night but the program would play in 3D anyway. If I tried to record a 3D program a popup message would say it might not record because I didn't have a 3D TV (even though I was watching the current program in 3D). Now, the message asks if I'm sure I want to record (because the TV isn't 3D) and if I say yes it will record. I don't know why the messaging is different. I called D* and they said there was no firmware update. Who knows for sure.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dublus* /forum/post/19161754
> 
> 
> I don't know why the messaging is different. I called D* and they said there was no firmware update.



There have been differences in how this all behaves in the past w/o a firmware change. A month or two ago there was a period of several days where we could ALL view the 3D channels, even w/o an adapter (though w/o the adapter, it would just be a side by side image). I think in that case, the channels just weren't flagged as being 3D, even though they were. But if this were another change like that, I would expect to see others besides you noticing it.


----------



## dublus

Thank you all for the helpful replies.


As frustrated as I am, I can only imagine how much worse it would be to try to do this alone.


----------



## kevin6541

I can't say for sure because I'm a samsung and gefen user, but I went through hours and hours of troubleshooting before having success.


You might know this already:


For some reason, the 3d channels won't work unless you tune to them from an hd channel first. The error message is different, but if you haven't tried this, it could help.


Disconnecting and reconnecting the hdmi in and out from the 3da-1 seems to solve many problems. If you can run an optical cable to a receiver, it helps in your troubleshooting process because you can get audible feedback while hdmi cables are disconnected.


resetting and powering off never seemed to make any difference, it seems to be all in the handshake, and most likely a particular order of handshakes.


----------



## mrmits




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/19158732
> 
> 
> I think we need to give MRMITS a big round of applause! If I remember correctly he was the one who first demanded a firmware update, not knowing if it would fix the problem or not. When he shared his success with 9.03 we all started asking for it and now Mitsubishi is finally starting to cooperate by sending the update. This is a great example of how effective these forums can be!!! Thank You MRMITS!!!!!



Thanks and you're welcome.


I've been an avid reader of these (and many other) forums without much to ever contribute. I read somewhere that the a FW update fixed a handshake issue so I thought I'd give that a try. I am glad it worked.


PS: don't know if anyone was able to watch the US Open in 3d- but it was freakin awesome!


----------



## dublus

Hmmm, that's interesting about needing an HD channel tuned first. I know for sure that the D* box was tuned to an SD OTA channel just before the 3D stopped working. Whether or not I went from HD to a 3D attempt later on, I don't know. This will give me something else to try at lunch. The unplugging, plugging thing I did ad nauseum with no change in behavior.


I currently have the sound running from the digital coax output of the D* box to my receiver, would this give the same audible feedback?


----------



## kevin6541

I can't say for sure as I haven't tried it, but I think that should also produce the same results.


----------



## rad

Anyone here with a WD73735 and the 3DC-1000 seeing a problem where for the 1st 10 to 15 minutes after the set is turned on watching a program the video blanks out like it's resyncing with the source? After it 'warms up' no problems playing recordings or viewing live 3D and it only happens when playing 3D programming.


I'm using DirecTV receivers as the source and I've tried three different models and all do the same thing so to me that points to something with the set.


----------



## Darin

I have a 73736, which is practically the same with just a couple extra (worthless) goodies. I've not noticed that. But then again, I haven't watched a ton of 3D on DirecTV yet. And it generally takes me long enough to get in to the menu and switch to 3d mode, that it's warmed up by the time I start watching.







As a side note: I have discovered that I can set one input to 3D mode, and another input to 2D, and they will each retain those modes. So my ultimate goal is to get an 1.4 AVR with dual outputs, with the adapter in one path, and just switch inputs when I want to go in and out of 3D mode. That will make things much simpler.


----------



## dublus

Okay, did everything that was suggested plus a bunch of other stuff (including calling the Mistubishi number listed in the 3DC-1000 installation guide - worthless).


No change.


My only course of action now is to exchange the 3DC-1000 in the hopes that mine went bad somehow. The Gefen box is looking very attractive at this point.


----------



## Zapix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pistonbrokeagain* /forum/post/19158467
> 
> 
> 9.03 Update fixed my blue screen issues today on 75833, same note as Cleverland - about a minute upgrade and when TV turned on automatically, no confirm message but it did update. I made a copy of all the files on the USB stick before running it, theres 271 files, in all about 17mB. I copied them to pC in the same directory strcture as they were on the stick. If someone has a ftp site, i can post them to that. Did not see any file that appears to be TV serial number - specific.... Also Mits called me to ask if it fixed the issue, so by now they should know it does.



I don't know how useful it is, but hotmail/live users have access to skydrive which is for file storage and sharing. There's also sites like Rapidshare.com.


----------



## NSX1992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dublus* /forum/post/19161969
> 
> 
> Hmmm, that's interesting about needing an HD channel tuned first. I know for sure that the D* box was tuned to an SD OTA channel just before the 3D stopped working. Whether or not I went from HD to a 3D attempt later on, I don't know. This will give me something else to try at lunch. The unplugging, plugging thing I did ad nauseum with no change in behavior.
> 
> 
> I currently have the sound running from the digital coax output of the D* box to my receiver, would this give the same audible feedback?



I hope you do not have the receiver between D* box and the adaptor. That can cause real problems.


----------



## pistonbrokeagain




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/19158732
> 
> 
> I think we need to give MRMITS a big round of applause! If I remember correctly he was the one who first demanded a firmware update, not knowing if it would fix the problem or not. When he shared his success with 9.03 we all started asking for it and now Mitsubishi is finally starting to cooperate by sending the update. This is a great example of how effective these forums can be!!! Thank You MRMITS!!!!!



Agree, absolutely great use of a Forum like this. I've Uploaded all the files that were on the Mits 9.03 USB Stick to a file sharing site, with sub-folders as they were.


Bit of a pain to download them one at a time and keep the directory structure, but the big ones (startup, V38SupApp) were on the root directory, the other sub-directories may not be needed (demo, pattern etc.) but i dont know for sure...


Would probably recommend that anyone who needs the update and has talked to Mits, wait for the "official" USB drive from them, but if anyone really wants to give this a try, the files are on www.Box.net , log in as "[email protected]", password "wd73833"


However I'm Sure Mits will have got the idea that the 9.03 update DOES fix a lot of 3D issues for x33 owners and should be able to get the official update rolling out pretty soon (wonder how many of these sets they sold)...


Got a chance to finally play PS3 3D demo of Wipeout HD last night, and it was pretty cool.


----------



## NSX1992

Received my Monoprice 4x1 HDMI switch ($30) today and now I can watch TV etc without having to switch cables. Readers might remember that I could not watch TV (Fios DVR) through my new Integra 1.4 AVR and adaptor to 82837. The solution was to bypass the AVR and use an optical cable to the AVR for surround sound. All my other sources are connected to the AVR to adaptor to TV. I am happy to report that everything works perfectly.


Since I just bought a powerful Nvidea PC which is also connected to the 82" and my love of 3D I ordered the 3D Vision kit. Can't wait to see how the 2D is converted to 3D in the highly rated games. Since the PC has a BR drive can you also watch 3D BR movies with new software? That would sure beat waiting for the PS3 upgrade at the end of October.


----------



## GTarrant

I just received the update from Mitsubishi and upgraded my 73833 firmware to 9.03. The update fixed all my issues. Consider me another firmware success story. Now its time to enjoy some 3D gaming


----------



## steelers1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GTarrant* /forum/post/19164513
> 
> 
> I just received the update from Mitsubishi and upgraded my 73833 firmware to 9.03. The update fixed all my issues. Consider me another firmware success story. Now its time to enjoy some 3D gaming



did you have any problems getting them to send it to you? what did you say to them. thanks.


----------



## Zapix

Attempted to run the uploaded (downloaded in my case) firmware and had no such luck.


From what I've read elsewhere, the USB stick needs to be formatted as FAT32, all files in the root directory.


Attempted to install by simply putting the USB stick in while the TV was on. That resulted in the TV adding the USB slot to the inputs for photo viewing. So I googled up updating DLP TVs, and read to unplug the TV, put the USB stick in, plug the TV in and wait for the status light to stop blinking. Turn the TV on, press Menu 1 2 3, and initialize the TV settings. Doing so resulted in the TV turning off and all settings being reset. No update though.


Suppose I'll give Mitsubishi a call in the morning and hope they don't question me for anything more than where to send the update!


Also, Piston, you previously mentioned there were 271 files? There are 94 (95 actually, but one file is a duplicate. /SYS5 dvd004.dat is there twice. #35 and #38) files uploaded, throughout 10 folders. Size: 16.4mb




On a side note, and perhaps I am imagining it, but the bowing issue I had in 4:3 picture went away, and the TV picture seems brighter and more colorful.  I'm going to pass it off as a halucination or sorts.


----------



## the_onlyone

Thanks for the files. They work perfectly. I got my 57833 3d working the second I install the files.


----------



## GTarrant




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steelers1* /forum/post/19164609
> 
> 
> did you have any problems getting them to send it to you? what did you say to them. thanks.



I did not have any issues with them sending it to me. I had called them a few weeks before because I cound not watch anything through the adapter(did not try the included Disney disk). So I all ready a call into them in which they wanted me to send in the unit to them. I did not send it in, returned the uni t to Amazon and purchased another. When I had the same problems with the new unit I knew something was amiss.

When I saw the post on the forum about the software update I called them again and explained that I did a google search to see if anyone else experinced the same issues with the adapter as myself. I told them I found this forum and a few users had success with the firmware update. I was put on hold for a few minutes and they agreed to send me out the update.

I will be calling them again today to tell them that the firmware update did in facdt solve my issues.


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zapix* /forum/post/19164800
> 
> 
> Attempted to run the uploaded (downloaded in my case) firmware and had no such luck.
> 
> 
> From what I've read elsewhere, the USB stick needs to be formatted as FAT32, all files in the root directory.
> 
> 
> Attempted to install by simply putting the USB stick in while the TV was on. That resulted in the TV adding the USB slot to the inputs for photo viewing. So I googled up updating DLP TVs, and read to unplug the TV, put the USB stick in, plug the TV in and wait for the status light to stop blinking. Turn the TV on, press Menu 1 2 3, and initialize the TV settings. Doing so resulted in the TV turning off and all settings being reset. No update though.
> 
> 
> Suppose I'll give Mitsubishi a call in the morning and hope they don't question me for anything more than where to send the update!
> 
> 
> Also, Piston, you previously mentioned there were 271 files? There are 94 (95 actually, but one file is a duplicate. /SYS5 dvd004.dat is there twice. #35 and #38) files uploaded, throughout 10 folders. Size: 16.4mb
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a side note, and perhaps I am imagining it, but the bowing issue I had in 4:3 picture went away, and the TV picture seems brighter and more colorful.  I'm going to pass it off as a halucination or sorts.





The instructons for installing the firmware went something like this:


Turn the TV off and unplug the TV. Insert the USB chip. Plug the TV back in, do not turn the tv on. The update will start automatically and the power light will start blinking. The update will take 3 to 5 minutes, do not unplug or turn the tv off during this time. When update is complete the TV will turn on automatically and in a few moments the following message will be displayed:


(I don't remember what the message was and I already tossed the instructions. But the message did not display anyway and I waited until the TV timed out with message about will turn off in one minute. )


Turn the TV off and unplug the TV. Remove the USB chip. Plug the TV back in and turn TV on. At this point I went to menu to see if version changed to 9.03...Success!


The instructions did not mention doing the Menu 1 2 3 reset or any other action.


Note that I also noticed that the colors seem brighter but assumed that the update must have changed some of the color settings....


----------



## Natrix1973




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zapix* /forum/post/19164800
> 
> 
> 
> On a side note, and perhaps I am imagining it, but the bowing issue I had in 4:3 picture went away, and the TV picture seems brighter and more colorful.  I'm going to pass it off as a halucination or sorts.



If you reset the TV all the video settings go back to factory default, i.e. torch mode. You will need to recalibrate the TV settings.


----------



## Zapix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Natrix1973* /forum/post/19166807
> 
> 
> If you reset the TV all the video settings go back to factory default, i.e. torch mode. You will need to recalibrate the TV settings.



That's why I'm dumbfounded actually, because I never changed the default settings. It's always looked pretty good to me. Only thing I've really ever changed were the audio settings, input names, and stuff like Smooth120. I never changed the color settings (aside from changing things to Brilliant/Game/Bright) so I am a little awe struck. It looked great! Probably just imagined it. If not, then I'm even more confused!


I will give the update a another attempt this evening seeing as how I haven't called Mitsubishi yet.


----------



## pdjudge

I just purchased a Mit WD 82838 and the adapter 3dc-1000. Here is my issue step 2 in the installation manual for the adapter says connect the provided DIN cable between the adapter's 3d glasses emitter in and the TV's 3d glasses emitter. There was no DIN cable in my kit and it wasn't even on the box as included. Do I attach the emitter to the adapter box or to the 3d glasses emitter on the TV?


----------



## steelers1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GTarrant* /forum/post/19165111
> 
> 
> I did not have any issues with them sending it to me. I had called them a few weeks before because I cound not watch anything through the adapter(did not try the included Disney disk). So I all ready a call into them in which they wanted me to send in the unit to them. I did not send it in, returned the uni t to Amazon and purchased another. When I had the same problems with the new unit I knew something was amiss.
> 
> When I saw the post on the forum about the software update I called them again and explained that I did a google search to see if anyone else experinced the same issues with the adapter as myself. I told them I found this forum and a few users had success with the firmware update. I was put on hold for a few minutes and they agreed to send me out the update.
> 
> I will be calling them again today to tell them that the firmware update did in facdt solve my issues.



thanks for your information. iam now going to call them.







just called them. at first they where going to give me the run around and with the help with all of you on this forum you saved me the hassles that some of you went threw. i told them about this forum that they should come here to see what we all are talking about. i told them just send me the software update and my problems would be solved. they put me on hold for about 8 minuets came back on and said they would send it to me take about 5 to 10 buisness days to get it. they asked for my s/n# and model# and address. thank again everybody. have a nice day.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pdjudge* /forum/post/19167854
> 
> 
> Do I attach the emitter to the adapter box or to the 3d glasses emitter on the TV?



Those who have tried both connecting directly to the TV, or routing through the adapter, have not noticed any difference in either configuration. In your case, without the extra cable, you will HAVE to connect the emitter to the TV. The TV is the source of the sync signal, not the adapter. With no way to connect the adapter to the emitter output of the TV, the adapter won't be able to provide a sync'd signal. Just connect the emitter directly to the TV. I don't think anyone has figured out why Mitsubishi suggests, or even provides for, routing the signal through the adapter.


----------



## Zapix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pdjudge* /forum/post/19167854
> 
> 
> I just purchased a Mit WD 82838 and the adapter 3dc-1000. Here is my issue step 2 in the installation manual for the adapter says connect the provided DIN cable between the adapter's 3d glasses emitter in and the TV's 3d glasses emitter. There was no DIN cable in my kit and it wasn't even on the box as included. Do I attach the emitter to the adapter box or to the 3d glasses emitter on the TV?



With the 3dc-1000 kit, there should be a 3 cables, 2 pairs of glasses and the emitter as well as the Disney 3D showcase disc. Of the 3 cables, a power plug, hdmi cable, and the DIN cable.


You do not have to connect the DIN cable between the TV and the adapter. You can simply connect the emitter to the TV.




On the another note, I attempted the firmware update again and got nothing. So I tried an old 32mb USB stick I had. FAT, not FAT32, and it worked. Basically did the steps again with unplugging the TV and all, and found that even after the light goes out, don't do anything. The TV will turn itself on after the update is done, which to me was "OK, that's a different! I think it worked!"


With 9.03, like others, I confirm this fixes the problem with the blue screen. Turned my PS3 on and it worked without having to change inputs as I have been since July. Switched between several 3D games, again without issue. Unplugged the cable from the PS3 and plugged it into my SA8300HD comcast cable box and it came on without issue.


Thanks Piston for uploading those files! I will keep a copy on hand.


I uploaded the files with install instructions and credits to people here that confirmed the update worked (and obviously to Piston for uploading them to begin with!) in a .zip file to rapidshare. A little easier than file by file.

It can be downloaded 10 times.

http://rapidshare.com/files/41814208...are_Update.zip 


Probably true that it's best to call them for the update so Mitsubishi understands without doubt the update works. Seeing as how some people are getting the run around though and denied the update it is available to download from Piston's page and the rapidshare link I posted.


----------



## pistonbrokeagain

Pleased the files worked, i guess the individual TV serial number then is not a pre-requirement for the update, but Mits did ask me for mine. Played Moto-Storm 3D demo on PS3 last night - looked great, can't wait for more titles and the PS3 Blu Ray 3D update, oh and a few more 3D BR movies as well !


----------



## Zapix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pistonbrokeagain* /forum/post/19168944
> 
> 
> Pleased the files worked, i guess the individual TV serial number then is not a pre-requirement for the update, but Mits did ask me for mine. Played Moto-Storm 3D demo on PS3 last night - looked great, can't wait for more titles and the PS3 Blu Ray 3D update, oh and a few more 3D BR movies as well !



My guess is now the serial is used to log what firmware the TV has so if there are problems down the road they know if somebody updated their firmware without their knowledge... IE, way to say "you voided your warrenty because our records show you should have 9.0x not the latest one." Although these TVs are 3 years old now, I have a hard time believing my TV has any warrenty left. Then again, didn't they tell some people they're not responsible for any damage the firmware update does? 


The MotorStorm demo was OK, although I think the full game seems somehow better. Perhaps because there's more to it. Wipeout HD in 3D is intense. Stardust seemed to be lacking a bit, and Pain's 3D content isn't even worth mentioning imo. MLB The Show sort of reminded of the Yankees/Mariners game I saw at BestBuy. The E3 3D video they have up was actually a clue to me that the PS3 can play non bluray 3D video content. So anything you download that is already formatted in squashed SbS (unsquashed ends up being stretched out), you can download and watch on the PS3. Just need to select the SbS format on the adapter. Includes several movie trailers and some shorts. These videos can be found online and some stuff can also be found on youtube which you can play through the PS3's browser. Hopefully the update will be released in October (already pissed off it was delayed as I'm sure it would have been out this coming monday) as they are now claiming. Come November 2, 3 imax 3d films are being released.


----------



## lurkor

I tried Zapixware 9.03 on my 73833, and so far it works great, and unless I'm hallucinating or overly enthusiastic, it looks better than it did before. It works well with 3dvision, Pwrdvd 10, and Ps3 quite nicely. Thanks for the joint effort guys for making this possible.


----------



## Zapix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lurkor* /forum/post/19169545
> 
> 
> I tried *Zapixware* 9.03 on my 73833.



Yay for 1996~1997 flashbacks!









I was always good for repacking things!










I imagine with only 10 downloads on that, I'll probably need to upload it to something a little more stable. Maybe I'll use skydrive off a secondary email account or something. That or see how options change if I register with Rapidshare (if it's free)




What would be a real accomplishment though would be getting Mitsubishi to fix the tint/brightness issue. Although I somehow doubt that will happen. Even so, it's not bad, but it's definately noticable in dark environments in games or movies (think Dark Knight or Silent Hill), and sort of washes out the color imo.


----------



## Zapix

 WD-xx833 9.03 firmware - download from msn skydrive 


If it doesn't work, or stops working, let me know. It should be OK though as I just tested the link.


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zapix* /forum/post/19170050
> 
> 
> Yay for 1996~1997 flashbacks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was always good for repacking things!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I imagine with only 10 downloads on that, I'll probably need to upload it to something a little more stable. Maybe I'll use skydrive off a secondary email account or something. That or see how options change if I register with Rapidshare (if it's free)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What would be a real accomplishment though would be getting Mitsubishi to fix the tint/brightness issue. Although I somehow doubt that will happen. Even so, it's not bad, but it's definately noticable in dark environments in games or movies (think Dark Knight or Silent Hill), and sort of washes out the color imo.




Mitsubishi should take a page out of the BluRay manufacturers book and develop a downloads page for firmware updates!!!!!!! Helloooooo!!!


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/19157519
> 
> 
> I would be interested in what you notice after the firmware update. Mine is supposed to be coming to me on Thursday. I have the same model TV.



You can consider me another success story with the adapter and the blue screen corrected after installing 9.03. I guess I won't be able to test the 3D capabilities until tomorrow at 3:40 EST on ESPN 3D. In the meantime, I'll try and make some time to test the 3D on my blu-ray player but today is not looking good for having a lot of testing time.


----------



## mardarlene




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zapix* /forum/post/19171392
> 
> WD-xx833 9.03 firmware - download from msn skydrive
> 
> 
> If it doesn't work, or stops working, let me know. It should be OK though as I just tested the link.



Zapix...thanks for the shout out...and the posting of the update. While its great that this forum exists...before/without this forum I was flying in the dark when trying to figure out what the issue was with my TV and the adapter...can you imagine the number of people who bought these TV's ...WORLDWIDE...and have not found this forum...what they must be going through...there are a handful of owners on this thread...I can imagine there has to be thousands of x833 series owners out there. My point is....is that anyone who downloads and installs the FW 9.03 update from links to this forum should call and tell Mitsubishi...not just install the update and go on their merry way....I am certain Mitsubishi is realizing that they have a real problem with these sets (and others perhaps) getting their adapter/TV/3d content to work ...AS THEY MARKETED THESE TV's would do......since there adapter has not been out for more than 30 days...they probable think only a small faction of the x833 series tv's would have issues...in fact would you think so if perhaps 6 to 10 owners complained out of thousands..BUT as 3d becomes more mature and dominant...and less costly...and this issue needs to be reported....just my rambling.....MARDARLENE


----------



## TViewer2000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pistonbrokeagain* /forum/post/19168944
> 
> 
> Pleased the files worked, i guess the individual TV serial number then is not a pre-requirement for the update, but Mits did ask me for mine. Played Moto-Storm 3D demo on PS3 last night - looked great, can't wait for more titles and the PS3 Blu Ray 3D update, oh and a few more 3D BR movies as well !




How was the 3D effect? I didn't think it had a huge amount of pop to it. How far are you sitting from the TV?


----------



## div3r5ity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TViewer2000* /forum/post/19172017
> 
> 
> How was the 3D effect? I didn't think it had a huge amount of pop to it. How far are you sitting from the TV?



if you get the motorstorm 3d game off of psn(9.99) network its waaayyyy better than the demo.


----------



## pistonbrokeagain




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TViewer2000* /forum/post/19172017
> 
> 
> How was the 3D effect? I didn't think it had a huge amount of pop to it. How far are you sitting from the TV?



TV Viewer, as Zapix mentioned, the Motorstorm 3D Rift "Game" is indeed much better than the free one-track demo. I forked out the $10 for it and there's a couple of tracks (so far) that are really cool in 3D. Can't remember which ones but basically they're on a cliff edge with the ocean (and air ballons) and when you deliberately drive off it's a pretty neat view.... The in-car view, while more fun to drive, doesn't fully show off the 3D effects, but behind the car view is neat, with mud and sand seemingly blasting right at you. Of course this isn't a full game in the sense (IE no controller options or 2 player), but that'll come. Realise this forum is about the 3DC-1000 Adapter though, so just the one reply on specific games from here. Oh about 8 feet from the TV, lights all out in room as Mits glasses seem to find a reflection of any other light source that's around, from the shiny frames...


I think Mardarlene's post above is extremely relevant, in that of course there are thousands of people with xx833 Mits TV's who haven't seen this thread and the implications of not having the 9.03 TV update, for 3D to work correctly. It is surely in Mits interest to understand this (if nothing else to sell more adapters), so i'd be really surprised if they did not get moving with a FTP site of their own to allow their "3D Ready" TV owners to upgrade their own TV's. Agree, that even though we've found a way to share the update, anyone who does use Zapixware's file should also take a minute to call Mits and tell them the result.


----------



## pistonbrokeagain

Side note: i just posted on another AVS forum entitled "Official Mitsubishi WD XX833 Owners Thread" with a link to this forum. Surprisingly not many are discussing 3D on that thread (mostly why has my lamp burnt out !), though i would have thought a lot of xx833 owners, like myself, bought their sets based on the "3D Ready" tag, back in 2007/2008. I'd seen i-max and assumed it would come to the living room at some point.


----------



## Zapix

One good thing about the internet is that google (and I'm sure other search engines) does bring up avsforum.com quite alot when searching. With a few keywords, people will find their way here.


I do hope Mitsubishi get's the point though, and likely they will. While the firmware we've uploaded works, Mitsubishi doesn't know that. Heck, they'll probably want to club us for making it available to download, but they made it difficult to get it, so people took matters into their own hands.


Personally, it amazes me they make firmware updates but don't make them readily available to customers. The idea they should have a site to download them shouldn't even be a question. It should have been done no less than 3 years ago or before that if older TVs has firmware updates. Anyone can go download firmware for their video card, motherboard, bluray players if they exist, but Mitsubishi keeps it hidden like some kind of secret. I hope they realize the need to get this firmware out to people. It's only common sense to realize there are thousands of people out there with xx833 TVs and a large % of those people are not on these forums, or likely savvy enough to use the internet to look, or consider there is an update. Technically it's on those of us who are aware and savvy to make the initial difference. Much like mrmits made us aware!










Anyways!

I think all I said was already said just reworded


----------



## Zapix

I sent an email to Mitsubishi. A long one. Whoever reads it, I feel bad for their eyes. They're gonna need to see a doctor when they're done! I mentioned in the letter I would make it readily available here for others to send should anyone feel like doing so. There might be a couple of grammatical issues, but I was too lazy to check it over, and usually too confident to bother looking.


EDIT NOTE: I checked it over! Just a couple of minor mistakes I fixed.




> Quote:
> Dear Mitsubishi,
> 
> 
> I purchased a WD-73833 HDTV/3DTV in September of 2007. Over the last 3 years, the TV has been nothing short of amazing. In January at CES-2010 with all the 3D rage, Mitsubishi announced plans to follow up with the 3DA-1 adapter which is also sold along with the 3DC-1000 kit. Having been waiting for such an announcement to bring 3D to homes, I was overjoyed.
> 
> 
> In July I purchased the 3DC-1000 kit from HSN.com and received it in mid July. Upon setting everything up I found that the adapter seemingly had an issue with showing the video from the source that was plugged into it. I was getting a blue screen as if nothing was turned on. At first I thought the adapter was broken. I tried different cables, different inputs, sources, etc. However after hours of extensively playing around with it, I found a way to make the display come on. This was by changing the [INPUT] on the TV from the HDMI source the adapter was connected to a different HDMI source. For example...
> 
> 
> PS3 -> Adapter -> HDMI 1
> 
> Cable box -> HDMI 2
> 
> 
> By changing from HDMI 1 to HDMI 2 then back to HDMI 1, 9 out of 10 times I would say the display would come on. I still believed there was a problem with my adapter, so I looked on avsforum.com for advice. I quickly discovered that I was not alone. Many people had been calling Mitsubishi and your service department had (and probably still does) claimed it was probably a problem with the adapter. Tell me, does Mitsubishi not find it odd that all of the people with THIS problem of getting a blue screen (no picture) all own a WD-xx833 model television? That none of these people had newer models? I don't know what kind of technicians work there, but that is far more than mere coincidence.
> 
> 
> A couple of weeks ago, one of the users on the forum noted he called MDEA service and demanded the most current firmware update known, 9.03. After installing it, his problem with the adapter and blue screen went away. Other users since then have contacted Mitsubishi about the firmware update. Some service people have sent the update, others have not. Those who did receive it claimed the same thing. The 9.03 firmware update resolved the issue everyone has been complaining about. Since this, one user copied the firmware update and made it available for others. I myself downloaded the files and installed the 9.03 update. My problem HAS been resolved.
> 
> 
> The update Mitsubishi seems to protect like some guarded secret is the resolution to a serious issue regarding the WD-xx833 TVs and use of the 3DA-1 adapter. We have seemingly confirmed that those with firmware 9.00 and 9.01 have this issue. There are reports from some that 9.02 also resolves this issue. 9.03 has been confirmed though by many people, and hopefully reports from people who MDEA did send the update are coming in to your techs that it fixes the problem.
> 
> 
> It has been made freely available at this time, as Mitsubishi seems to be adamant about making it available, not to mention it is not directly available from your website as it should be. You tell people to send in their adapters for no reason, and make people jump through hoops to even attempt to get the firmware update. This email letter is being sent as a message to Mitsubishi to update your technicians and systems to point out the solution to what is likely a massive problem. Considering the update is a mere 16.4mb, there is hardly any reason these updates should not be available on Mitsubishi's website. Any person can go download firmware updates for their PC motherboards, video cards, DVD and BD players, etc.
> 
> 
> I will also copy this message to the avsforum.com on the following thread with permission to other users to copy and send this message. There is no need to reply to this email. On behalf of all WD-xx833 owners, PLEASE update your knowledge base on how to resolve the blue screen (no display) troubles with the 3DA-1 adapter. Do not make the transition to 3D difficult for your customers.
> 
> 
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> 
> NAME HERE
> 
> 
> 
> WD Serial #:
> 
> MFG Date:



For the serial number I gave them only the first 3 digits followed by xxx. For example, _123xxx_. They have no need to know my full serial number imo.


On that note, I'm going to go watch some TV!


----------



## walford

Formware updates are very often serial number dependent since by knowing the serial number the manufacturees knows what manufacturer made each of the components in the set and what firmware updates apply to that serial number and which ones do not.


----------



## lujan

Zapix, very good letter and I couldn't have said it better myself.


----------



## Wryker

I've spent all day hooking up and rehooking up cables, configuring my 73835, my AVR (Denon 3808 and a 1.3 NON-3D receiver) and PS3. DUring that time I've spent the last hour trolling the web in search of what I can do to play PS3 3D games and be able to watch Comcast 3D through my AVR.

I can watch Comcast 3D by directly connecting the HDMI out to the 3D box to the TV and it works if I run HDMI out to the receiver from receiver to 3D box and from there to the TV.

PS3 works from PS3 to 3D box to TV but I get 'scramblevision' going PS3 - receiver - 3D box - TV.

I am wondering if anyone else has this set-up and has found a solution (without buying a new AVR) that would work (a splitter but not sure how one would work unless there's one that is like the new 3D BD players that offer 2 HDMI outs)


----------



## walford

The Mits 3D adapter will pass through 3D in checkerboard format,however it will not convert other HDMI 1.4a 3D formats to checkerboard if the TV or A/V receiver or

Gefen detective unit connected to the adapter's output does not present itself as aMits Make/model of 3D ready TV.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19177419
> 
> 
> The Mits 3D adapter will pass through 3D in checkerboard format,however it will not convert other HDMI 1.4a 3D formats to checkerboard if the TV or A/V receiver or
> 
> Gefen detective unit connected to the adapter's output does not present itself as aMits Make/model of 3D ready TV.



I only have the TV connected to the 3D adapter's output (it's connected from the 3D output directly to the Mits TV)


----------



## haywardw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ffactoryxx* /forum/post/19113970
> 
> 
> Ok so I setup my Adapter and have had a ton of problems so far. Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> 
> Cable BOX HDMI -> Adapter -> C9 TV.
> 
> 
> 1. Now whenever I have my Mistu in 3d mode and am just watching regular HBO HD or whatever, the colors are not as bright and picture doesnt look as good.
> 
> 
> 2. When switching channels using the Comcast Guide, there is a delay now and the screen sometimes goes blue for a 2nd then cuts back into the station I chose.
> 
> 
> 3. When choosing ON Demand, the tv cuts over to the Snowy screen then cuts to Ondemand.
> 
> 
> 4. When my 3D glasses are on the picture doesn't look as light as bright watching Xgames as it would if I watched just normal 2d
> 
> 
> It seems like a lot of time the TV is trying to resync up with my Comcast box and it always flashes back and fowarth to blue screen. Any ideas?



I can answer #1, do not leave your 3d mode on if not watching 3d material. It indeed does wash out colors. Anytime 3d is turned on screen gets very bright and greenish all colors washed out without glasses, and only get a little better with them. There are many complaining about this, seem to effect 2007-2009 models. I will have Conns come out next week to address my issue or see if they will replace, if can not fix.


----------



## bigz

I have the WD65833 TV with 9.02 software. I have DirectV and only get the blue screen when the 3-D adapter is not powered on. My question is would I get a benefit out of upgrading to the 9.03 firmware? Will the 3-D picture get better and/or brighter? Appreciate an answer.


----------



## walford

AFAIK once you get your system working with the MIts adapter you should never turn it off esecially since it uses so little power, it therefore does not save you but a few pennies a year to leave it on.


----------



## NSX1992

See my previous posts. I believe cable DVR (and satelite?) cannot be connected to an AVR and adaptor. You have to bypass the AVR and use coaxial or optical cable for sound to the AVR. A switch allows that setup and then use another input for the devices that do work through the AVR.


My latest problem is Nvidea 3D Vision (received yesterday). Since 3D Vision can output checkerboard directly it works fine when the PC is connected directly to the TV. But when PC to AVR(1.4) to HDMI switch to adaptor to TV a double image is seen in one eye. I may have to run another optical cable and bypass the AVR,switch and adaptor. I will experiment tonight.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19178107
> 
> 
> AFAIK once you get your system working with the MIts adapter you should never turn it off esecially since it uses so little power, it therefore does not save you but a few pennies a year to leave it on.



Since my 3D adapter is connected after my AVR then to my TV I have to leave it on else I can't watch anything. But that doesn't answer my question regarding why Cable works through my AVR but PS3 gaming does not.


----------



## Av8tr

_My latest problem is Nvidea 3D Vision (received yesterday). Since 3D Vision can output checkerboard directly it works fine when the PC is connected directly to the TV. But when PC to AVR(1.4) to HDMI switch to adaptor to TV a double image is seen in one eye. I may have to run another optical cable and bypass the AVR,switch and adaptor. I will experiment tonight.
_


I've been considering the Nvidea 3D card. How do you like it and how does it work? I don't have a 120Hz pc monitor yet, so wasn't sure it would do me any good. I hadn't thought of running it to the TV. I currently have the Mits adapter connected before my 1.4 AVR and it works fine. Can I stream 3D content from my pc to my TV and get it to work?


----------



## Av8tr

My Mits TV loses some resolution after watching 3D. I do turn off 3D enabling in the TV menu, but it still is not a sharp as it usually is. I generally try all kinds of different actions and the sharpness always returns eventually, but it would be nice to know the cause and be able to correct it right away. Does anyone know what the problem is?


----------



## Zapix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bigz* /forum/post/19178061
> 
> 
> I have the WD65833 TV with 9.02 software. I have DirectV and only get the blue screen when the 3-D adapter is not powered on. My question is would I get a benefit out of upgrading to the 9.03 firmware? Will the 3-D picture get better and/or brighter? Appreciate an answer.



I don't think there would be any benefit in upgrading unless you were having issues that were corrected between 9.02 and 9.03. While I doubt much can be done, it would be nice if a future firmware could fix the 3D brightness/tinting issues.



Walford, the adapter powers itself on and off as needed. If the source component isn't on, the adapter itself is powered off. At least this is my experience with it.


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/19131519
> 
> 
> I have a 1.4 compatible receiver and am getting the blue screen when connected to the adapter. I called Mitsubishi and was kept on hold most of the time for over 30 minutes and they finally said they would sent the update. Also while I was on hold, I switched to the blu-ray source where I do get a picture because it's on a different HDMI input direct from the source and not through the adapter, the picture kept flashing and the screen would get light and darker as if the glasses were turning off and then back on. Does anyone know if this is fixed by the firmware update as well?



Well, this is getting so frustrating that I decided to use only the emitter and the glasses with my blu-ray player. When I connected the adapter and an older HDMI splitter, I ended up with the blue screen again. Also, I guess my Comcast subscription doesn't include ESPN and I'm not a big sports watcher. I decided as long as I could watch 3D blu-ray movies, I would be happy. The flicker problem was not due to the cables but to the location of the emitter. For those of you that have the Diamond series, I had the emitter underneath the left blue glowing light and this was causing some sort of interference. Once I moved the emitter elsewhere the flickering and shutting on/off went away. Once there is decent 3D programming on Comcast, then I'll consider getting a 3D compliant HDMI splitter and putting the adapter back into the equation.


----------



## walford




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zapix* /forum/post/19178785
> 
> 
> I don't think there would be any benefit in upgrading unless you were having issues that were corrected between 9.02 and 9.03. While I doubt much can be done, it would be nice if a future firmware could fix the 3D brightness/tinting issues.
> 
> 
> 
> Walford, the adapter powers itself on and off as needed. If the source component isn't on, the adapter itself is powered off. At least this is my experience with it.



I thought that with out a 3D source the adapter was in standby but that you could over ride 3D standby mode by using the power button on the remote which would competly shut it down just as if you unplugged it's power supply.


Av8tr,

When in 3D mode your DLP is only displaying 960x1080 resolution per eye instead o 1920x1080 resolution with nomal 2D HD programing. I don't know why it does not change the resolution right away. Do you change channels also when you turn off 3D mode?


Wryker.

Are you saying that you have not problem with 3D content from your cable company through the AVR but that Checkerboard content games from your PS3 do not pass through?


----------



## tgr595121

OK I feel kind of stupid posting this but I have a question on the power light on the 3d adapter. The power indicator light does not go on, tired it with the remote and manually. I have it plugged into monster power-EP-IN2450. I also plugged it directly into the wall outlet and nothing. The funny thing is it must be getting a power source because the red light on the imitter is on. All is hooked up correctly on my Mits -WD65737. Checked and re-checked 3 times.. I have the panny 350 and the 3d works fine but I know you do not need the adapter for this. I have AT&T UVERSE and have not upgraded to the 3d channels yet to test the 3d adapter. I'm thinking either the AC power adapter is defective or the 3d adapter is. Just wondering of anyone else has had an issue like this.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tgr595121* /forum/post/19179757
> 
> 
> OK I feel kind of stupid posting this but I have a question on the power light on the 3d adapter. The power indicator light does not go on, tired it with the remote and manually. I have it plugged into monster power-EP-IN2450. I also plugged it directly into the wall outlet and nothing. The funny thing is it must be getting a power source because the red light on the imitter is on. All is hooked up correctly on my Mits -WD65737. Checked and re-checked 3 times.. I have the panny 350 and the 3d works fine but I know you do not need the adapter for this. I have AT&T UVERSE and have not upgraded to the 3d channels yet to test the 3d adapter. I'm thinking either the AC power adapter is defective or the 3d adapter is. Just wondering of anyone else has had an issue like this.



Not stupid at all - I was thinking the same thing with mine since it didn't come on either. I can't remember but I believe (I just hooked mine up yesterday) it didn't come on until I connected it (the adapter) directly to the TV using the HDMI cable and the 3D source to the adapter - then it was 'on'.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19179701
> 
> 
> 
> Wryker.
> 
> Are you saying that you have not problem with 3D content from your cable company through the AVR but that Checkerboard content games from your PS3 do not pass through?



Yes - 3D from cable works fine running either:

HDtivo - AVR - adapter - TV

HDtivo - adapter - TV


3D on the PS3 works on:

PS3 - adapter - TV


But NOT:

PS3 - AVR - adapter - TV


it appears the signal output from the PS3 will not pass-thru my Denon non-3D ready receiver (3808).


----------



## destiny 21

i have the onkyo 608 3d avr and it will not pass on mine just get blue screen. so i just run the fios box to the adapter and then to tv and works just have to hook optical cable from fios to avr for sound. have the new mits 73838 3d dlp tv


----------



## walford

That is because your "3D capable" AVR only recogonizes HDMI 1.4a 3D resolutons and Checkerboard is not a HDMI 1.4a resoluiton.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19179868
> 
> 
> That is because your "3D capable" AVR only recogonizes HDMI 1.4a 3D resolutons and Checkerboard is not a HDMI 1.4a resoluiton.



So how do you connect a PS3 AND an HDTivo to watch 3D content with only one input on the adapter?!


----------



## walford

You use either a manual or powerd(with a remote) switch.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19180113
> 
> 
> You use either a manual or powerd(with a remote) switch.



How does that help with the AVR situation? The switch will have one output - and that needs to go through the AVR so no difference than what I am doing now.


----------



## Zapix




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19179701
> 
> 
> I thought that with out a 3D source the adapter was in standby but that you could over ride 3D standby mode by using the power button on the remote which would competly shut it down just as if you unplugged it's power supply.



When it's powered on, it's either in normal (2D), top and bottom, or side by side. If you turn the power off on the adapter while any signal is being sent, then you may as well unplug the HDMI cables from it because it won't be able to pass through the signal (which is obvious). To save power though, it will turn itself off if there's no signal being received, and will power on again when a signal is being sent. You also cannot turn it on if there is no signal being received, which until I realized this had lead me to believe it was broken.


----------



## NSX1992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Av8tr* /forum/post/19178410
> 
> _My latest problem is Nvidea 3D Vision (received yesterday). Since 3D Vision can output checkerboard directly it works fine when the PC is connected directly to the TV. But when PC to AVR(1.4) to HDMI switch to adaptor to TV a double image is seen in one eye. I may have to run another optical cable and bypass the AVR,switch and adaptor. I will experiment tonight.
> _
> 
> 
> I've been considering the Nvidea 3D card. How do you like it and how does it work? I don't have a 120Hz pc monitor yet, so wasn't sure it would do me any good. I hadn't thought of running it to the TV. I currently have the Mits adapter connected before my 1.4 AVR and it works fine. Can I stream 3D content from my pc to my TV and get it to work?



I have had the PC connected to my TV since the first 65" DLP ($15,000) and now to my 82" ($3,600). I have only played Just Cause 2 in 3D and I am very impressed using the GTX 480. With all the graphics on maximum I could not really tell any difference between the Xbox360 version which is very good and the PC version.I bought the 3D Vision kit to expand the number of 3D games available from 2 to 400(not all excellent).


To avoid double images the PC had to be connected to the TV directly and a separate optical cable from PC to AVR for sound. A problem is the Nvidea 3D kit uses its own emitter and glasses requiring switching the emitter at the TV.I think any 3D content you download should be ok with the kit.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19180662
> 
> 
> How does that help with the AVR situation? The switch will have one output - and that needs to go through the AVR so no difference than what I am doing now.



You could connect the HD Tivo to the AVR input, the AVR output to a switch input, the PS3 to another switch input, then the switch output to the 3D adapter input. Your PS3 would need to use Toslink to the AVR which would be a bummer for content with lossless 5.1 or 7.1 audio via HDMI, but at least you will have 5.1 surround sound and 3D from your PS3 and 3D from your HD Tivo with your current AVR and a single 3D adapter.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tgr595121* /forum/post/19179757
> 
> 
> OK I feel kind of stupid posting this but I have a question on the power light on the 3d adapter. The power indicator light does not go on, tired it with the remote and manually. I have it plugged into monster power-EP-IN2450. I also plugged it directly into the wall outlet and nothing. The funny thing is it must be getting a power source because the red light on the imitter is on. All is hooked up correctly on my Mits -WD65737. Checked and re-checked 3 times.. I have the panny 350 and the 3d works fine but I know you do not need the adapter for this. I have AT&T UVERSE and have not upgraded to the 3d channels yet to test the 3d adapter. I'm thinking either the AC power adapter is defective or the 3d adapter is. Just wondering of anyone else has had an issue like this.



In my experience, the red light on the emitter gets power from the TV emitter port even if you feed the TV emitter output through the adapter. So, I don't think you can use that as a sign that your adapter is getting power from the wall wart.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19182686
> 
> 
> You could connect the AVR output to a switch input, the HD Tivo to another switch input, then the switch output to the 3D adapter input. Your PS3 would need to use Toslink to the AVR which would be a bummer for content with lossless 5.1 or 7.1 audio via HDMI, but at least you will have 5.1 surround sound and 3D from your PS3 with your current AVR and a single 3D adapter.



OK - i just ordered a 4 x 2 HDMI splitter/switch. When it comes in I'm going to see if it'll pass the PS3 3D through it. One HDMI out will go to the AVR for lossless sound and the other will go to the 3D adapter.

I hope it arrives before this weekend but not sure.

If anyone is interested in my 'findings' when I test it let me know.


----------



## steelers1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19185358
> 
> 
> OK - i just ordered a 4 x 2 HDMI splitter/switch. When it comes in I'm going to see if it'll pass the PS3 3D through it. One HDMI out will go to the AVR for lossless sound and the other will go to the 3D adapter.
> 
> I hope it arrives before this weekend but not sure.
> 
> If anyone is interested in my 'findings' when I test it let me know.



what brand and model# did you order and where? thanks let us no if it works.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steelers1* /forum/post/19185623
> 
> 
> what brand and model# did you order and where? thanks let us no if it works.



PID 6415 from Monoprice.


----------



## Lee Stewart




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19185358
> 
> 
> OK - i just ordered a 4 x 2 HDMI splitter/switch. When it comes in I'm going to see if it'll pass the PS3 3D through it. One HDMI out will go to the AVR for lossless sound and the other will go to the 3D adapter.
> 
> I hope it arrives before this weekend but not sure.
> 
> If anyone is interested in my 'findings' when I test it let me know.



That isn't going to work.


When you split the PS3's 3D signal, it won't be any different then hooking up the PS3 directly to the AVR which you already know doesn't work. You aren't stripping out/seperating the 3D video from the HD audio. All you are doing is taking one PS3 3D signal and making a duplicate of it.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lee Stewart* /forum/post/19186068
> 
> 
> That isn't going to work.
> 
> 
> When you split the PS3's 3D signal, it won't be any different then hooking up the PS3 directly to the AVR which you already know doesn't work. You aren't stripping out/seperating the 3D video from the HD audio. All you are doing is taking one PS3 3D signal and making a duplicate of it.



Why won't it work? "duplicating" it won't work? Have you tried this (or anyone else)? Otherwise how you get two inputs into one input? I know that it works with a BD player with 2 HDMI outs (one video and one audio).


----------



## Milmanias




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19186651
> 
> 
> Why won't it work? "duplicating" it won't work? Have you tried this (or anyone else)? Otherwise how you get two inputs into one input? I know that it works with a BD player with 2 HDMI outs (one video and one audio).



The dual output blu ray players are sending the audio in a format the 1.3 HDMI AVR understand, just like a regular blu ray.


The 4.2 switch is still a good idea, but you'll need to still use a toslink cable for sound in 3d blu ray movies, unless you get a new AVR or dual player output. It sucks, I'm (and many others) in the same boat.


----------



## Milmanias




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19185885
> 
> 
> PID 6415 from Monoprice.



I'm interested to know if it will work. PID 6416 has been reported to work.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milmanias* /forum/post/19186767
> 
> 
> I'm interested to know if it will work. PID 6416 has been reported to work.



Most definitely. I will not give up lossless audio so worse case is a new BD player w/dual HDMI outputs and since I have the original PS3 no lossless over toslink.


----------



## Lee Stewart




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19186863
> 
> 
> Most definitely. I will not give up lossless audio so worse case is a new BD player w/dual HDMI outputs and since I have the original PS3 no lossless over toslink.



AFAIK, there are now three 3D BD players that have the dual 1.3 HD Audio/1.4 3D Video outputs on them:



Samsung BD-C7900 - $399


Panasonic DMP-BDT300 - $399


Panasonic DMP-BDT350 - $449 (same as 300 except it has DLNA)



Those are MSRP prices. You will still need some kind of a multi input HDMI switch that can handle 1.4/1.4a 3D before the 3DC-1000


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lee Stewart* /forum/post/19187087
> 
> 
> AFAIK, there are now three 3D BD players that have the dual 1.3 HD Audio/1.4 3D Video outputs on them:
> 
> 
> 
> Samsung BD-C7900 - $399
> 
> 
> Panasonic DMP-BDT300 - $399
> 
> 
> Panasonic DMP-BDT350 - $449 (same as 300 except it has DLNA)
> 
> 
> 
> Those are MSRP prices
> 
> 
> You will still need some kind of a multi input switch before the 3DC-1000



To confirm what you're saying: these BD players will pass through the 3D signal while the PS3 3D will not?


----------



## Lee Stewart




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19187107
> 
> 
> To confirm what you're saying: these BD players will pass through the 3D signal while the PS3 3D will not?



No.


Here again is the picture of the back of a Panasonic BDT350 (300 looks the same and the new samsung probably also looks almost the same):











There are two HDMI outputs labeled MAIN and SUB. If you had a 1.4 3D compatible AVR, then all you would use is the MAIN output.


For those, like yourself, who have a 1.3 AVR, you would use both HDMI outputs at the same time. There is a menu in the player that allows you to configure the SUB output so it is only sending HD Audio (lossless). Inside the player, there are electronics that seperate the 3D video which is sent to the MAIN output and the HD Audio to the SUB output. You then have to attach the MAIN output to your 3DC-1000 so the frame sequential 3D from the player can be converted to checkerboard 3D format by the 3DC-1000


You will no longer be able to use your AVR as a switcher when it comes to 3D content. You will have to add that switch in front of the 3DC-1000 in the equipment chain.


For those who have a 1.3 AVR and a new 3DTV, they just avoid th 3DC-1000 and hook the MAIN output to one of the 1.4 HDMI inputs on the 3DTV then use the TV to switch video from HD/SD to 3D. The SUB output goes to the 1.3 AVR.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lee Stewart* /forum/post/19187168
> 
> 
> No.
> 
> 
> Here again is the picture of the back of a Panasonic BDT350 (300 looks the same and the new samsung probably also looks almost the same):
> 
> 
> There are two HDMI outputs labeled MAIN and SUB. If you had a 1.4 3D compatible AVR, then all you would use is the MAIN output.
> 
> 
> For those, like yourself, who have a 1.3 AVR, you would use both HDMI outputs at the same time. There is a menu in the player that allows you to configure the SUB output so it only is sending HD Audio (lossless). Inside the player, there are electronics that seperate the 3D video which is sent to the MAIN output and the HD Audio to the SUB output. You then have to attach the MAIN output to your 3DC-1000 so the frame sequential 3D from the player can be converted to checkerboard 3D format by the 3DC-1000
> 
> 
> You will no longer be able to use your AVR as a switcher when it comes to 3D content. You will have to add that switch in front of the 3DC-1000 in the equipment chain.
> 
> 
> For those who have a 1.3 AVR and a new 3DTV, they just avoid th 3DC-1000 and hook the MAIN output to one of the 1.4 HDMI inputs on the 3DTV then use the TV to switch video from HD/SD to 3D. The SUB output goes to the 1.3 AVR.



I understand how these have 2 HDMI outs:my point/question was these BD players can be used with the 4 x 2 splitter/switch I bought and the 3D signal will make it through the splitter/switch to get to the 3D adapter but the PS3 to the 4 x 2 splitter will not work.


----------



## Lee Stewart




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19187192
> 
> 
> I understand how these have 2 HDMI outs:my point/question was these BD players can be used with the 4 x 2 splitter/switch I bought and the 3D signal will make it through the splitter/switch to get to the 3D adapter but the PS3 to the 4 x 2 splitter will not work.



If a 3D BD player works with the switch (for 3D video) then the switch will work with a PS3 in 3D game mode.


But you have no lossless HD audio with just a switch and the PS3 (in 3D BD mode - next month)


----------



## Lee Stewart

For you to get HD lossless audio from 3D BDs you have these alternatives:


1. Buy a new 3D AVR


2. Buy a new 3D BD player with special dual HDMI outputs as I listed


3. Wait and hope that someone makes a box that does what the special 3D BD players can do which is to seperate the HD lossless audio from the 3D video. 1 HDMI in (from PS3) and 2 HDMI outs with one being just HD audio while the other being just 3D video


And you still need a switch for the 3DC-1000


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lee Stewart* /forum/post/19187213
> 
> 
> If a 3D BD player works with the switch (for 3D video) then the switch will work with a PS3 in 3D game mode.
> 
> 
> But you have no lossless HD audio with just a switch and the PS3 (in 3D BD mode - next month)



I was told that the switch I ordered does handle 3D but the proof will be in the 'pudding.' The box I ordered can have each input be 'split' or 'switched'. Since my HDTivo already works in 3D going through the AVR first I'm not worried about that (and this box offers coax audio output on one of the HDMI outs which is fine for Comcast if I need to 'test' that option) so it'll be an 'easy' test: PS3 - splitter/switch - 3D Adapter - TV (with the other HDMI out going to the AVR).


----------



## Lee Stewart




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19187240
> 
> 
> I was told that the switch I ordered does handle 3D but the proof will be in the 'pudding.' The box I ordered can have each input be 'split' or 'switched'. Since my HDTivo already works in 3D going through the AVR first I'm not worried about that (and this box offers coax audio output on one of the HDMI outs which is fine for Comcast if I need to 'test' that option) so it'll be an 'easy' test: PS3 - splitter/switch - 3D Adapter - TV (with the other HDMI out going to the AVR).



Just remember you can't have an HDMI from the PS3 (in 3D mode) going to your AVR


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lee Stewart* /forum/post/19187265
> 
> 
> Just remember you can't have an HDMI from the PS3 (in 3D mode) going to your AVR



When you say that do you mean "at all" have an HDMI go the AVR or do you mean "direct" from the PS3 to the AVR?

My prior post maps the PS3 going HDMI to the splitter/switch - then one of the HDMI outputs on the splitter/switch going to the 3D adapter (to get the 3D video and I understand it's not separating out the audio from the video) while the other HDMI output goes to the AVR (to play back audio only). The splitter/switch will output audio and video to both HDMI outs.


----------



## Lee Stewart




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19187307
> 
> 
> When you say that do you mean "at all" have an HDMI go the AVR or do you mean "direct" from the PS3 to the AVR?
> 
> My prior post maps the PS3 going HDMI to the splitter/switch - then one of the HDMI outputs on the splitter/switch going to the 3D adapter (to get the 3D video and I understand it's not separating out the audio from the video) while the other HDMI output goes to the AVR (to play back audio only). The splitter/switch will output audio and video to both HDMI outs.



At all . . .


Either directly attaching the PS3 to the AVR or splitting the HDMI output from the PS3 by the use of a switch/splitter.


The moment you choose 3D mode from the PS3 (game or movie) the signal will stop at the AVR's input and go no further - just like it does today.


2D mode - you are fine. You get HD audio and HD video (from a BD) or play games.


3D mode - your AVR doesn't accept a 3D video signal from 3D BD either game or movie and you are not seperating the 3D video from the HD audio


You have to give up lossless audio from 3D BD be it game or movie using a PS3. Or buy a new AVR or one of the listed 3D BD players


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lee Stewart* /forum/post/19187373
> 
> 
> At all . . .
> 
> 
> The moment you choose 3D mode from the PS3 (game or movie) the signal will stop at the AVR's input and go no further - just like it does today.



I understand the 3D stops at the AVR - what I'll be testing is does the splitter/switch pass through the 3D and audio out to both HDMI outputs - if it does it'll work since one output to the AVR will only be to hear the video feed since the other output will go to the 3D adapter.


----------



## NSX1992

I just finished watching my first 3D BR movie (that I have had for 2 months) Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs using Nvidea 3D Vision kit and Power DVD 10. As I stated before I had to bypass the 1.4 AVR,switch and DC-1000 to avoid a double image and use an optical cable for sound. I could not wait any longer for the PS3 update and bought the Power DVD 10 software. The movies 3D was better than I expected but a real plus is that the software converts regular DVDs into 3D. My very limited viewing was quite satisfactory as real 3D appeared.


Now I have 4 different sets of glasses. 2 IO for Avatar on Xbox360(last December) 1 Xpand 102, 2 Mitsubishi for PS3 and cable and 1 Nvidea for PC. I was hoping the Xpand 102 would work with the Nvidea emitter so could have 2 pair to watch 3D BR but no sucess. I even pried open the enclosed dead battery and replaced with a new one and glued it shut. I also have 3 different emitters. Is there a switch that could switch between two emitters and the 3D out of the TV?


----------



## Lee Stewart




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19187490
> 
> 
> I understand the 3D stops at the AVR - what I'll be testing is does the splitter/switch pass through the 3D and audio out to both HDMI outputs - if it does it'll work since one output to the AVR will only be to hear the video feed since the other output will go to the 3D adapter.



I don't see how that works.


PS3 has one HDMI output.


The splitter (really known as a repeater) if it works properly just takes one audio/video signal (2D or 3D) and creates 2 identical audio/video (2D or 3D) signals.


This doesn't solve your problem. If you split the PS3's output - one goes to AVR, other goes to 3DC-1000, then all you have done is create two 3D audio/video signals instead of one.


You are not seperating the audio from the video. The splitter won't do that.


If you use a switch, then you can't send the PS3's HDMI output to the AVR in 3D mode because it won't accept it.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lee Stewart* /forum/post/19187636
> 
> 
> I don't see how that works.
> 
> 
> PS3 has one HDMI output.
> 
> 
> The splitter (really known as a repeater) if it works properly just takes one audio/video signal (2D or 3D) and creates 2 identical audio/video (2D or 3D) signals.
> 
> 
> This doesn't solve your problem. If you split the PS3's output - one goes to AVR, other goes to 3DC-1000, then all you have done is create two 3D audio/video signals instead of one.
> 
> 
> You are not seperating the audio from the video. The splitter won't do that.
> 
> 
> If you use a switch, then you can't send the PS3's HDMI output to the AVR in 3D mode because it won't accept it.



But I'll only be using the AVR for audio - not video. So yes, no separation of audio and video from the streams but the AVR will be switched to just audio while the TV input will be the 3D adapter input.


----------



## Lee Stewart




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19187654
> 
> 
> But I'll only be using the AVR for audio - not video. So yes, no separation of audio and video from the streams but the AVR will be switched to just audio while the TV input will be the 3D adapter input.



Oh - so you are not going to have Lossless audio from 3D BD correct?


You will use an *A/B* switch from the PS3. *A* goes to the AVR for games and BD (with lossless audio) and DVD with digital audio, etc.

*B* will be used when the PS3 is put into 3D mode (either games or movies) which is routed directlty to the 3D Adapter. And what is the audio connection from the PS3 to the AVR when you select *B*?


----------



## HTFAN007




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NSX1992* /forum/post/19187605
> 
> 
> I just finished watching my first 3D BR movie (that I have had for 2 months) Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs using Nvidea 3D Vision kit and Power DVD 10. As I stated before I had to bypass the 1.4 AVR,switch and DC-1000 to avoid a double image and use an optical cable for sound. I could not wait any longer for the PS3 update and bought the Power DVD 10 software. The movies 3D was better than I expected but a real plus is that the software converts regular DVDs into 3D. My very limited viewing was quite satisfactory as real 3D appeared.
> 
> 
> Now I have 4 different sets of glasses. 2 IO for Avatar on Xbox360(last December) 1 Xpand 102, 2 Mitsubishi for PS3 and cable and 1 Nvidea for PC. I was hoping the Xpand 102 would work with the Nvidea emitter so could have 2 pair to watch 3D BR but no sucess. I even pried open the enclosed dead battery and replaced with a new one and glued it shut. I also have 3 different emitters. Is there a switch that could switch between two emitters and the 3D out of the TV?




What Invida GPU are you using? Also, did you have any trouble getting the hardware and software systems to work after installing and updating the 3Dvision and Power DVD 10 software? I ask these questions because I am interested in using the same type system setup.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lee Stewart* /forum/post/19187744
> 
> 
> Oh - so you are not going to have Lossless audio from 3D BD correct?
> 
> 
> You will use an *A/B* switch from the PS3. *A* goes to the AVR for games and BD (with lossless audio) and DVD with digital audio, etc.
> 
> *B* will be used when the PS3 is put into 3D mode (either games or movies) which is routed directlty to the 3D Adapter. And what is the audio connection from the PS3 to the AVR when you select *B*?



Not quite - the switch/splitter outputs 2 video/audio signals at the same time (if I wanted to send the same A/V signal to 2 video displays for example is what some people use this splitter/switch for) so I will use it in this fashion meaning I will set the AVR to not have a video output - just be used for the sound; the other output that's also pumping A/V to the 3D adapter will send it 'all' to the TV but I'll only be using the TV do 'display' the video. So, in your above example both *A and B are 'actively' sending audio and video at the same time.*


----------



## Lee Stewart




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19187802
> 
> 
> Not quite - the switch/splitter outputs 2 video/audio signals at the same time (if I wanted to send the same A/V signal to 2 video displays for example is what some people use this splitter/switch for) so I will use it in this fashion meaning I will set the AVR to not have a video output - just be used for the sound; the other output that's also pumping A/V to the 3D adapter will send it 'all' to the TV but I'll only be using the TV do 'display' the video. So, in your above example both *A and B are 'actively' sending audio and video at the same time.
> *


*


When the PS3 is in 3D mode the signal has to get past the HDMI input chip it is plugged into on your AVR for you to make any decisions about what to do with the signal.


Here is what is happening - an example again . . .


You are sitting in your car in the garage with the door in the closed position. You have a remote in your hand to open the door. Two buttons on the remote. One says 2D and the other says 3D. You can make a right or a left when you leave your driveaway. Press 2D - the garage door opens and you make a decision which way you want to go - L or R. Press 3D and the door doesn't open. You can't leave your garage because the door won't open when you press 3D. Only when you press 2D.*


----------



## div3r5ity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19187802
> 
> 
> Not quite - the switch/splitter outputs 2 video/audio signals at the same time (if I wanted to send the same A/V signal to 2 video displays for example is what some people use this splitter/switch for) so I will use it in this fashion meaning I will set the AVR to not have a video output - just be used for the sound; the other output that's also pumping A/V to the 3D adapter will send it 'all' to the TV but I'll only be using the TV do 'display' the video. So, in your above example both *A and B are 'actively' sending audio and video at the same time.
> *


*


Originally Posted by NSX1992

Could you give me more details as I have the same problem with new 1.4 Integra 30.2 AVR and Fios cable and Xbox360 (PS3 works fine). How did you hook up the splitters and switch? The Sewell HDMI 1x2 Splitter v1.3b is out of stock until 11/30/10. Is that the correct one? Thanks.


ps3>avr>splitter>tv(input 1)

________splitter>hdmi switch>3dc>tv(input 3)



cablebox>

splitter>avr>tv(input 1)

splitter>hmdi switch>3dc>tv(input 3)


thats how mine is set up and its works perfectly . audio through avr and video through 3dc*


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lee Stewart* /forum/post/19187879
> 
> 
> When the PS3 is in 3D mode the signal has to get past the HDMI input chip it is plugged into on your AVR for you to make any decisions about what to do with the signal.
> 
> 
> Here is what is happening - an example again . . .
> 
> 
> You are sitting in your car in the garage with the door in the closed position. You have a remote in your hand to open the door. Two buttons on the remote. One says 2D and the other says 3D. You can make a right or a left when you leave your driveaway. Press 2D - the garage door opens and you make a decision which way you want to go - L or R. Press 3D and the door doesn't open. You can't leave your garage because the door won't open when you press 3D. Only when you press 2D.



What I'm saying is the HDMI signal is NOT going beyond my AVR! I can hear the audio when I tried PS3 thru my AVR then AVR to the adapter so, in theory, if the splitter/switch is sending out A/V through both outputs I'll use the AVR to process JUST the sound for one output and the TV/adapter for the video.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *div3r5ity* /forum/post/19187883
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by NSX1992
> 
> Could you give me more details as I have the same problem with new 1.4 Integra 30.2 AVR and Fios cable and Xbox360 (PS3 works fine). How did you hook up the splitters and switch? The Sewell HDMI 1x2 Splitter v1.3b is out of stock until 11/30/10. Is that the correct one? Thanks.
> 
> 
> ps3>avr>splitter>tv(input 1)
> 
> ________splitter>hdmi switch>3dc>tv(input 3)
> 
> 
> 
> cablebox>
> 
> splitter>avr>tv(input 1)
> 
> splitter>hmdi switch>3dc>tv(input 3)
> 
> 
> thats how mine is set up and its works perfectly . audio through avr and video through 3dc



I don't have a 1.4 AVR. Mine is 1.3 and I ordered the splitter/switch today so I have to wait until I get it to test out my theory.


----------



## div3r5ity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19187924
> 
> 
> I don't have a 1.4 AVR. Mine is 1.3 and I ordered the splitter/switch today so I have to wait until I get it to test out my theory.



just put the splitter before the avr and it will work. the audio will still come out avr and u can still do 3d, it will work i been doing that setup due to my cablebox not transmitting correctly


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *div3r5ity* /forum/post/19187943
> 
> 
> just put the splitter before the avr and it will work. the audio will still come out avr and u can still do 3d



That's what i'm thinking/hoping will happen. It'd be fine if I didnt' want to watch 3D on my HDTivo but I do so I need a way to get 2 3D outputs to the one 3D input on the 3D adapter.


----------



## Lee Stewart




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19187919
> 
> 
> What I'm saying is the HDMI signal is NOT going beyond my AVR! I can hear the audio when I tried PS3 thru my AVR then AVR to the adapter so, in theory, if the splitter/switch is sending out A/V through both outputs I'll use the AVR to process JUST the sound for one output and the TV/adapter for the video.



So you set the PS3 to 3D game mode when attached to the AVR. You got audio but no video right?


What audio format was that? Dolby Digital?


----------



## div3r5ity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19187957
> 
> 
> That's what i'm thinking/hoping will happen. It'd be fine if I didnt' want to watch 3D on my HDTivo but I do so I need a way to get 2 3D outputs to the one 3D input on the 3D adapter.



thats why u got to get a hdmi switcher like mine. radioshack $30 1x2.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19185358
> 
> 
> OK - i just ordered a 4 x 2 HDMI splitter/switch. When it comes in I'm going to see if it'll pass the PS3 3D through it. One HDMI out will go to the AVR for lossless sound and the other will go to the 3D adapter.
> 
> I hope it arrives before this weekend but not sure.
> 
> If anyone is interested in my 'findings' when I test it let me know.



I corrected my original post about this. meant PS3 to one switch input, and AVR to the other switch input (with Tivo to AVR input), then switch output to 3d adapter. Try that if your setup above does not work.


The issue with using the splitter function on the input side of the AVR as you mention above, versus using a switch function on the output side of the AVR, may be whether the PS3 "sees" the 3d Adapter or the AVR for purposes of outputting 3D video. Sounds like it has worked out for some.


Also, you'll still be in the position where you have to switch cables for different sources to the 3D adapter, or use multiple 3D adapters, so a switch on the output of the AVR would still be useful for that if only one 3D adapter.


----------



## Milmanias




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lee Stewart* /forum/post/19187985
> 
> 
> So you set the PS3 to 3D game mode when attached to the AVR. You got audio but no video right?
> 
> 
> What audio format was that? Dolby Digital?



On some HDMI receivers, you can get the 3D game signal from the PS3. The trick is to bypass the receiver the first time, so that the PS3 recognizes the Mits Adapter as 3D ready, then connect the PS3-AVR-Adapter-TV. I did this with my Pioneer VSX-919AH receiver, and can get the video and audio (DD 1.5) through. I've tried it with the PS3 demos (except Pain) and the short 3D video they have for download.


I'm planning on still getting a 4x2 switch; this should allow me to watch 3D bypassing the 1.3 AVR (though having to switch to optical sound through the PS3 will be a pain), plus it will allow me to get the the Mits adapter out of the loop when watching 2D since it's been reported the adapter crushes blacks. Sucks that I'll lose lossless audio when watching 3D, but I'm not willing to replace a year old AVR I'm happy with. Maybe when they drop in price I'll get a BMP-BDT100 and then I'd be set.


----------



## ffactoryxx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *haywardw* /forum/post/19178045
> 
> 
> I can answer #1, do not leave your 3d mode on if not watching 3d material. It indeed does wash out colors. Anytime 3d is turned on screen gets very bright and greenish all colors washed out without glasses, and only get a little better with them. There are many complaining about this, seem to effect 2007-2009 models. I will have Conns come out next week to address my issue or see if they will replace, if can not fix.



Is this a case by case problem or does everyone experience the same thing?

How about on a 3d station? Have you seen anywhere posted where they might be fixing the adapter and glasses issue where things are darker?


----------



## ffactoryxx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *haywardw* /forum/post/19178045
> 
> 
> I can answer #1, do not leave your 3d mode on if not watching 3d material. It indeed does wash out colors. Anytime 3d is turned on screen gets very bright and greenish all colors washed out without glasses, and only get a little better with them. There are many complaining about this, seem to effect 2007-2009 models. I will have Conns come out next week to address my issue or see if they will replace, if can not fix.



1. Is this a case by case problem or does everyone experience the same thing?


2. I have seen talk about how viewing in ed with the glasses makes everything darker. Has anyone seen Mitsubishi talk about fixing this or have you guys found a work around for the adapter kit to brighter things up?


----------



## Darin

It's not an issue with the adapter (though it does have its own issues). The loss of black levels / color issues are due to the DLP link flashes that are turned on during 3D mode. In between frames, at a time when the screen should be black, a brief full screen flash of (white, teal, green, whatever it may be) is emitted that results in extra light perceived across the entire image, which washes out the image, reduces black levels, and possibly induces a color cast. On the 2010 model Mitsubishis, DLP link can be turned off for users with IR emitter type glasses that don't need the DLP link signals. But all earlier model DLP sets have DLP Link automatically turned on in 3D mode, with no way to turn it off.


----------



## ffactoryxx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *haywardw* /forum/post/19178045
> 
> 
> I can answer #1, do not leave your 3d mode on if not watching 3d material. It indeed does wash out colors. Anytime 3d is turned on screen gets very bright and greenish all colors washed out without glasses, and only get a little better with them. There are many complaining about this, seem to effect 2007-2009 models. I will have Conns come out next week to address my issue or see if they will replace, if can not fix.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/19188895
> 
> 
> It's not an issue with the adapter (though it does have its own issues). The loss of black levels / color issues are due to the DLP link flashes that are turned on during 3D mode. In between frames, at a time when the screen should be black, a brief full screen flash of (white, teal, green, whatever it may be) is emitted that results in extra light perceived across the entire image, which washes out the image, reduces black levels, and possibly induces a color cast. On the 2010 model Mitsubishis, DLP link can be turned off for users with IR emitter type glasses that don't need the DLP link signals. But all earlier model DLP sets have DLP Link automatically turned on in 3D mode, with no way to turn it off.



Could this be solved Via firmware updates?


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milmanias* /forum/post/19188732
> 
> 
> On some HDMI receivers, you can get the 3D game signal from the PS3. The trick is to bypass the receiver the first time, so that the PS3 recognizes the Mits Adapter as 3D ready, then connect the PS3-AVR-Adapter-TV. I did this with my Pioneer VSX-919AH receiver, and can get the video and audio (DD 1.5) through. I've tried it with the PS3 demos (except Pain) and the short 3D video they have for download.
> 
> 
> I'm planning on still getting a 4x2 switch; this should allow me to watch 3D bypassing the 1.3 AVR (though having to switch to optical sound through the PS3 will be a pain), plus it will allow me to get the the Mits adapter out of the loop when watching 2D since it's been reported the adapter crushes blacks. Sucks that I'll lose lossless audio when watching 3D, but I'm not willing to replace a year old AVR I'm happy with. Maybe when they drop in price I'll get a BMP-BDT100 and then I'd be set.



I first left all connections the 'same' but had the one HDMI out from my AVR go into the 3D adapter then from that to the TV. No picture quality problems etc (yes, turn off 3D on the TV when not in use) for all of my inputs (HDTivo, PS3, etc) and 3D from HDTivo to the AVR was passed through to the 3D adapter without any issues. When I downloaded the off-road racing game 3D demo (forgot the name) the option to play in 3D was not available nor did my PS3 'see' any 3D options. SO I directly connected the PS3 to the 3D adapter and from there to the TV. Went to video options and the PS3 found the 3D video options and the demo played fine (no sound since the AVR was dropped from the loop).

SO I reconnected everything back so the one HDMI out from my AVR to the 3D adapter and tested the PS3. The option to play in 3D was there but when selected the screen was 'bonkers' (looked like scramblevision) and thus started my many posts, google searches etc.

Since I have 2 3D outputs, a non-3D-ready AVR and one input on the 3D adapter and I will not loose the option for lossless I'm trying this splitter/switch. Since the 4 x 2 has 2 HMDI outputs that will output 3D audio and video to both outputs I will have one go to the AVR and the other to the 3D adapter.

This will always be 'dedicated' meaning that even though both outputs are sending video AND audio I will only use the output to the AVR for audio and the other output to the 3D adapter for video. The HDMI output from my AVR will go to the other HDMI input on the TV and will be used for the other devices I have hooked up (XBOX, HDDVD player, PS2, Wii, etc).


----------



## Milmanias




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19188932
> 
> 
> Since I have 2 3D outputs, a non-3D-ready AVR and one input on the 3D adapter and I will not loose the option for lossless I'm trying this splitter/switch. Since the 4 x 2 has 2 HMDI outputs that will output 3D audio and video to both outputs I will have one go to the AVR and the other to the 3D adapter.
> 
> This will always be 'dedicated' meaning that even though both outputs are sending video AND audio I will only use the output to the AVR for audio and the other output to the 3D adapter for video. The HDMI output from my AVR will go to the other HDMI input on the TV and will be used for the other devices I have hooked up (XBOX, HDDVD player, PS2, Wii, etc).



I know you will try it, but as has been explained before, it will not work. Your receiver will not know what to do with the signal, even if you only want it to process audio. If you get it to work, congrats, but more than likely you'll need to buy a new AVR or a dual output blu ray player, as has been discussed previously.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ffactoryxx* /forum/post/19188920
> 
> 
> Could this be solved Via firmware updates?



Someone, somewhere, said Mitsubishi told them they couldn't (or wouldn't) fix this via firmware. There has been talk of a class action regarding this issue. It sure _seems_ like something that could be fixed via firmware. DLP link seemed like a good idea until we saw the side effects. Theoretically, while watching 3D, it shouldn't be noticeable (since the lenses should be closed at that time). But apparently the response time of current glasses isn't fast enough to completely block it out.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milmanias* /forum/post/19188966
> 
> 
> I know you will try it, but as has been explained before, it will not work. Your receiver will not know what to do with the signal, even if you only want it to process audio. If you get it to work, congrats, but more than likely you'll need to buy a new AVR or a dual output blu ray player, as has been discussed previously.



Since the audio worked with it going through the AVR I have to believe it will again.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lee Stewart* /forum/post/19187985
> 
> 
> So you set the PS3 to 3D game mode when attached to the AVR. You got audio but no video right?
> 
> 
> What audio format was that? Dolby Digital?



I forget what format the audio was but it blew up my speakers since the PS3's audio is SO much louder than any other device and it was at least 5.1 if not 7.1. I got video but it was 'scrambled'.


----------



## ffactoryxx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/19188974
> 
> 
> Someone, somewhere, said Mitsubishi told them they couldn't (or wouldn't) fix this via firmware. There has been talk of a class action regarding this issue. It sure _seems_ like something that could be fixed via firmware. DLP link seemed like a good idea until we saw the side effects. Theoretically, while watching 3D, it shouldn't be noticeable (since the lenses should be closed at that time). But apparently the response time of current glasses isn't fast enough to completely block it out.



Do you know the model Optima's people are getting?


How much do you think one could sell the emittor and 2 glasses for?


----------



## Darin

No, I don't know anything about the Optimas. I recently sold my emitter for $70 with BIN, one pair of glasses sold for $90 BIN, and the other pair is currently in bidding. Some people have gotten more, I priced them under average so they sell quickly ($90 glasses sold within a couple hours, emitter in less than 24).


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ffactoryxx* /forum/post/19189110
> 
> 
> Do you know the model Optima's people are getting?



Read this thread for colors and Optimas.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...265214&page=10


----------



## NSX1992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HTFAN007* /forum/post/19187783
> 
> 
> What Invida GPU are you using? Also, did you have any trouble getting the hardware and software systems to work after installing and updating the 3Dvision and Power DVD 10 software? I ask these questions because I am interested in using the same type system setup.



I bought new computer from Digital Storm with Nvidea GeForce GTX 480 and i7 930 overclocked. Small problem with 3D Vision installation as the drivers were already installed but it asked for USB update from their site which I could not find. Then I followed written instructions to delete existing driver but then it would not load from the suplied CD. Downloading from their site solved the problem.


In Power DVD 10 I chose 3D ready TV and 82" and the emitter would not glow bright green(3D on). After choosing Auto it said 73" LCD as my TV(wrong) but it worked.


----------



## HTFAN007

Sounds like a great configuration. I may kind of low-ball my setup. Do you think an I5 Intel with 4G and with an Nvidia GTX460 will play 3DBD using Power DVD 10 Mark II? Guess I could try it and if it hesitates or skips go use an AMD Quad CPU in a different PC.


----------



## john stephens

Wryker,


I've got a similar problem and wonder if it can be fixed? I want to use a Splitter or Switcher to simultaneously feed HDMI to the Mits adapter and to a Denon AVR 3806. I want the outputs of the AVR and the Adapter to feed to different HDMI ports on my Laservue TV. I'm trying to solve a Red hue problem with my D* HDMI feed. With my current hook up, thru the adapter, I get 3D OK but all my 2D channels have an excess of Red. I want to arrange to bypass the adapter when I'm watching 2D channels. I wonder if an HDMI Splitter like the Monoprice 4921 will work for this? My first more ambitious attempts to use a 4 by 2 splitter did not work. Does anyone here have thoughts or experience with this device/hook up? BTW, when I simply turn off the adapter, I get no HDMI feed at all. It does not simply allow a pass through in the Off mode.


----------



## Jovan023

FYI, I tried to do the 4x2 switch to send video to adapter and audio to my 1.3 hdmi Onkyo avr . Tried everything I could think of and no go . Only solution currently is to buy panny 3d bluray with hdmi audio out or a DVDO video processor (approx 500 bucks ) that will do hdmi out. Trust me, i have tried everything and failed and i cant handle losing lossless audio from ps3. It's a huge deal breaker for me. I'm prob gonna pony up for Panasonic bliray so I can still get blurays with lossless and play ps3 with optical out


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jovan023* /forum/post/19191751
> 
> 
> FYI, I tried to do the 4x2 switch to send video to adapter and audio to my 1.3 hdmi Onkyo avr . Tried everything I could think of and no go . Only solution currently is to buy panny 3d bluray with hdmi audio out or a DVDO video processor (approx 500 bucks ) that will do hdmi out. Trust me, i have tried everything and failed and i cant handle losing lossless audio from ps3. It's a huge deal breaker for me. I'm prob gonna pony up for Panasonic bliray so I can still get blurays with lossless and play ps3 with optical out



Was it a switch or a splitter? The one I ordered is both a splitter/switch that outputs to both. It's already en route to me so at this point I'll find out if it works!


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *john stephens* /forum/post/19191749
> 
> 
> Wryker,
> 
> 
> I've got a similar problem and wonder if it can be fixed? I want to use a Splitter or Switcher to simultaneously feed HDMI to the Mits adapter and to a Denon AVR 3806. I want the outputs of the AVR and the Adapter to feed to different HDMI ports on my Laservue TV. I'm trying to solve a Red hue problem with my D* HDMI feed. With my current hook up, thru the adapter, I get 3D OK but all my 2D channels have an excess of Red. I want to arrange to bypass the adapter when I'm watching 2D channels. I wonder if an HDMI Splitter like the Monoprice 4921 will work for this? My first more ambitious attempts to use a 4 by 2 splitter did not work. Does anyone here have thoughts or experience with this device/hook up? BTW, when I simply turn off the adapter, I get no HDMI feed at all. It does not simply allow a pass through in the Off mode.



John - im specifically looking to just get my HDTivo & PS3 to route video to the 3D adapter and the other HDMI out to the AVR to just use it for the audio.

If you're running your video strictly through the adapter you must keep it powered on all the time but turn off the 3D mode on your tv (and set the 3D mode to 'normal')


----------



## john stephens




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19191962
> 
> 
> John - im specifically looking to just get my HDTivo & PS3 to route video to the 3D adapter and the other HDMI out to the AVR to just use it for the audio.
> 
> If you're running your video strictly through the adapter you must keep it powered on all the time but turn off the 3D mode on your tv (and set the 3D mode to 'normal')



Thanks Wryker, that tip fixed my problem; and without spending any more money! I love this Forum!


----------



## Impala1ss

Have had the starter kit for about 1 month and have only used the glasses less than 1 hour. One pair started going off and on every 2 seconds. Called Mitsu., sent the glasses back to Irvine, CA for testing. They were replaced with a new pair after I received a call saying they were defective.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Impala1ss* /forum/post/19194190
> 
> 
> Have had the starter kit for about 1 month and have only used the glasses less than 1 hour. One pair started going off and on every 2 seconds. Called Mitsu., sent the glasses back to Irvine, CA for testing. They were replaced with a new pair after I received a call saying they were defective.



I wonder if there's a 'defect' that Mitsy isn't talking about? I was one of the first to also get the starter kit but I just hooked it up for the first time last week - so I'm wondering if this is a concern for those early adopters like you and I?


----------



## haywardw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ffactoryxx* /forum/post/19188887
> 
> 
> 1. Is this a case by case problem or does everyone experience the same thing?
> 
> 
> 2. I have seen talk about how viewing in ed with the glasses makes everything darker. Has anyone seen Mitsubishi talk about fixing this or have you guys found a work around for the adapter kit to brighter things up?



I have seen many having this problem but don't know of any planned fixes. My understanding is the 2010 models don't have this problem.


----------



## bcterp

Darkening of the screen when viewing 3D content happens regardless of what brand or model of 3D television you have, this is normal. This is a product of the shutter glasses opening and closing, thus reducing the light that reaches your eyes, no way around it with current technology. The greenish/tint of blacks and loss of contrast however is specific to pre-2010 Mitsubishi models. This is what was corrected for in this years models but not older ones. Refer to this thread for a complete explanation (and call Mitsubishi and let them know you are dissatisfied):

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1265214


----------



## haywardw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/19188974
> 
> 
> Someone, somewhere, said Mitsubishi told them they couldn't (or wouldn't) fix this via firmware. There has been talk of a class action regarding this issue. It sure _seems_ like something that could be fixed via firmware. DLP link seemed like a good idea until we saw the side effects. Theoretically, while watching 3D, it shouldn't be noticeable (since the lenses should be closed at that time). But apparently the response time of current glasses isn't fast enough to completely block it out.



If it can not be fixed with firmware then MItts needs to put DLP link glasses in their kits and not the emitter and glasses they have now. People say Dlp Link glasses cuts down on the problem.


----------



## bcterp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *haywardw* /forum/post/19194883
> 
> 
> If it can not be fixed with firmware then MItts need to put DLP link glasses in their kits and not the emitter and glassed they have now. People say Dlp Link glasses cuts down on the problem.



Absolutely, they screwed up and have been telling anyone who complains that there isn't a problem, hopefully they change their tune. The Optoma/Viewsonic DLP-Link glasses will produce the best picture quality by far from my experience. I have tried Xpand, Optoma and Mitsubishi glasses. Mitsubishi glasses are a distant last place in picture quality on a 2009 or earlier TV.


----------



## dagameballa

Hey all..wanted to share this great deal. http://www.eastcoasttvs.com/index.ph...ay-disc-1.html


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *haywardw* /forum/post/19194883
> 
> 
> If it can not be fixed with firmware then MItts needs to put DLP link glasses in their kits and not the emitter and glasses they have now. People say Dlp Link glasses cuts down on the problem.



The potential reason they put the emitter glasses in the kit is that for many people, there are some very obvious polarization rainbows with currently available DLP Link glasses. In my opinion, the polarization rainbows are more annoying than the teal blacks, but everyone's experience differs.


It appears that Mitsubishi simply included glasses that are already available in the kit as they are identical to the Samsung glasses. Perhaps Mits considered including already available DLP Link glasses and realized the polarization rainbow and went with the emitter glasses instead.


Also, the emitter glasses and emitter itself are compatible with both the adult and kids Samsung rechargeable glasses, which is actually a nice thing, so that may have influenced their decision as to which glasses to include as well.


In a perfect world, the kit would have glasses that block the DLP Link flash, do not reveal the polarization rainbows, do not negatively affect PQ, and either come in adult and kids sizes or are compatible with the kids glasses by Samsung. Unfortunately, AFAIK, such glasses do not exist yet. I think eventually someone will make such glasses but until then....


----------



## haywardw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19195722
> 
> 
> The potential reason they put the emitter glasses in the kit is that for many people, there are some very obvious polarization rainbows with currently available DLP Link glasses. In my opinion, the polarization rainbows are more annoying than the teal blacks, but everyone's experience differs.
> 
> 
> It appears that Mitsubishi simply included glasses that are already available in the kit as they are identical to the Samsung glasses. Perhaps Mits considered including already available DLP Link glasses and realized the polarization rainbow and went with the emitter glasses instead.
> 
> 
> Also, the emitter glasses and emitter itself are compatible with both the adult and kids Samsung rechargeable glasses, which is actually a nice thing, so that may have influenced their decision as to which glasses to include as well.
> 
> 
> In a perfect world, the kit would have glasses that block the DLP Link flash, do not reveal the polarization rainbows, do not negatively affect PQ, and either come in adult and kids sizes or are compatible with the kids glasses by Samsung. Unfortunately, AFAIK, such glasses do not exist yet. I think eventually someone will make such glasses but until then....



Very well put, one and hope.... Still waiting for Conns next week. Since we both know they will not be able to fix the problem, it'll be interesting to see what they will do.


----------



## NSX1992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HTFAN007* /forum/post/19191243
> 
> 
> Sounds like a great configuration. I may kind of low-ball my setup. Do you think an I5 Intel with 4G and with an Nvidia GTX460 will play 3DBD using Power DVD 10 Mark II? Guess I could try it and if it hesitates or skips go use an AMD Quad CPU in a different PC.



I would suggest the Nvidia site. They list the minimum requirements. Just Cause 2 does reduce its frame rate from nearly 60fps to 26fps when in 3D.


----------



## steelers1

i just got a call from mitsubishi and they gave me the tracking number for my software update for my wd-65833 tv. that was cool of them to do this.





















it will be here tuesday next week. i will report back on results. thanks for the help on this forum.


----------



## mardarlene




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steelers1* /forum/post/19196852
> 
> 
> i just got a call from mitsubishi and they gave me the tracking number for my software update for my wd-65833 tv. that was cool of them to do this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it will be here tuesday next week. i will report back on results. thanks for the help on this forum.



Steelers1: great news...why did it take so long for them to send...its been almost a month since I got the update...and about two weeks since the update was posted...just asking?


----------



## steelers1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mardarlene* /forum/post/19199252
> 
> 
> Steelers1: great news...why did it take so long for them to send...its been almost a month since I got the update...and about two weeks since the update was posted...just asking?



the reason why is i didn`t call them till the 9th of sept. i just wanted to make shure that the update was really going to do the job. when i saw the reports from others that it solved there problems. i said okay call them up and i did at first they was going to give the same run a round like every body said here on this sight that they would. so i told them about this sight and that the 9.03 update would take care of my problem. so she put me on hold for about 4 to 5 minuets came back on and said they will send it to me asked for my mailing address and s/n and phone number. so thanks again for every bodys help on this sight. have a nice day.


----------



## mardarlene




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steelers1* /forum/post/19199840
> 
> 
> the reason why is i didn`t call them till the 9th of sept. i just wanted to make shure that the update was really going to do the job. when i saw the reports from others that it solved there problems. i said okay call them up and i did at first they was going to give the same run a round like every body said here on this sight that they would. so i told them about this sight and that the 9.03 update would take care of my problem. so she put me on hold for about 4 to 5 minuets came back on and said they will send it to me asked for my mailing address and s/n and phone number. so thanks again for every bodys help on this sight. have a nice day.



Steelers1: if you want the update quicker I can send it to by email....or you could download it ...stick it on thumb drive and follow the instructions posted by ZAPIX

*IF ANYONE ON THIS FORUM WANTS THE FW 9.03 UPDATE SOONER THAN GOING THROUGH MITS...let me know and I will provide it to you...the file is 14 megs*


----------



## steelers1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mardarlene* /forum/post/19200145
> 
> 
> Steelers1: if you want the update quicker I can send it to by email....or you could download it ...stick it on thumb drive and follow the instructions posted by ZAPIX
> 
> *IF ANYONE ON THIS FORUM WANTS THE FW 9.03 UPDATE SOONER THAN GOING THROUGH MITS...let me know and I will provide it to you...the file is 14 megs*



thanks for the offer its goimg to be at my house monday from mitts. have a nice day


----------



## Av8tr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcterp* /forum/post/19194922
> 
> 
> Absolutely, they screwed up and have been telling anyone who complains that there isn't a problem, hopefully they change their tune. The Optoma/Viewsonic DLP-Link glasses will produce the best picture quality by far from my experience. I have tried Xpand, Optoma and Mitsubishi glasses. Mitsubishi glasses are a distant last place in picture quality on a 2009 or earlier TV.



Really? I have the Mits/samsung glasses and the 3d looks great on my 65737 2009. I haven't tried anything else. I guess I should experiment.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Av8tr* /forum/post/19200795
> 
> 
> Really? I have the Mits/samsung glasses and the 3d looks great on my 65737 2009. I haven't tried anything else. I guess I should experiment.



Take a careful look at black objects on the screen, especially pure black objects that fill a significant portion. You'll likely see a teal haze from the DLP Link flash even while wearing the Mits glasses.


If you compare DLP Link glasses and the Mits glasses side by side, the difference is huge.


----------



## gtgray

Any word on availability of the Mits emitters? I saw in the adapter thread they were available, then they weren't available and now that thread seems to kind of died on the vine..


I am looking for a cost effective emitter solution that would be compatible with the Sammy or Mits glasses. I don't really want to buy the Starter Kit.


----------



## steelers1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19201037
> 
> 
> Take a careful look at black objects on the screen, especially pure black objects that fill a significant portion. You'll likely see a teal haze from the DLP Link flash even while wearing the Mits glasses.
> 
> 
> If you compare DLP Link glasses and the Mits glasses side by side, the difference is huge.



so what pair do you recommend dlp link glasses or mitts glasses? thanks


----------



## mds54

^^^^^

I think the overwhelming concensus here is DLP Link glasses for best PQ.


----------



## Darin

On the flip side, I've seen as many complaints about rainbows with the DLP link glasses as I've seen that the DLP link glasses reduce the DLP link "haze". You may just have to pick your poison, until better glasses come along.


----------



## jheadley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steelers1* /forum/post/19196852
> 
> 
> i just got a call from mitsubishi and they gave me the tracking number for my software update for my wd-65833 tv. that was cool of them to do this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it will be here tuesday next week. i will report back on results. thanks for the help on this forum.



Congratulations. My 9.03 upgrade finally arrived today and solved my issues.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/19201355
> 
> 
> On the flip side, I've seen as many complaints about rainbows with the DLP link glasses as I've seen that the DLP link glasses reduce the DLP link "haze". You may just have to pick your poison, until better glasses come along.



Agreed. The fact that the mits glasses and emitter are compatible with the Samsung Kids glasses helped sway me to stay with the mits glasses. Also, in my case, the polarization rainbow was just too striking to ignore whereas I can somewhat adjust to the teal haze.


If you are a lucky one and don't have the polarization rainbow on your set (to check without DLP Link glasses, tilt your head 45 degrees with mits glasses and see if you see vertical rainbows during light colored scenes), and you have no need for kids glasses, I'd say the DLP Link glasses are a no-brainer.


Also, the Viewsonic glasses are compatible with the Samsung kids glasses since the Veiwsonic glasses allow for the sync order to be switched on the glasses. Had I known that before buying more emitter glasses, it would have been a harder decision to go with the kit glasses over the Viewsonics.


----------



## ffactoryxx

So I just was watching the Ohio State 3d game on Comcast. Looks good however a few things I noticed. Maybe someone could chime in.


1. Certain things up close like players look blurry.

2. When action happens such as the ball being thrown. Its tough to follow the ball as my eyes need to readjust.

3. There seems to be very small lines around certain things. They actually look like slashs. IE " \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\"


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ffactoryxx* /forum/post/19211063
> 
> 
> So I just was watching the Ohio State 3d game on Comcast. Looks good however a few things I noticed. Maybe someone could chime in.
> 
> 
> 1. Certain things up close like players look blurry.
> 
> 2. When action happens such as the ball being thrown. Its tough to follow the ball as my eyes need to readjust.
> 
> 3. There seems to be very small lines around certain things. They actually look like slashs. IE " \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\"



To start with, at 1/2 720p resolution, it's not HD...


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ffactoryxx* /forum/post/19211063
> 
> 
> So I just was watching the Ohio State 3d game on Comcast. Looks good however a few things I noticed. Maybe someone could chime in.
> 
> 
> 1. Certain things up close like players look blurry.
> 
> 2. When action happens such as the ball being thrown. Its tough to follow the ball as my eyes need to readjust.
> 
> 3. There seems to be very small lines around certain things. They actually look like slashs. IE " \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\"



I noticed Items 1 and 2 also while watching the game recorded off of DirctTV using a HR22, Mits adapter, WD73833 with Mits glasses. The blurry shots seemed to be the camera not being focused correctly because it would correct when changing camera angles.


Following the ball on kickoffs and long passes is very difficult. I noticed this aslo while watching some of the World Cup games. Had to concentrate very hard to try to follow the ball. I am hoping some of this will be corrected with more effective camera angles as crews get more experienced with filming sports with 3D?


I did not notice anything like item 3 though...


----------



## trauma

hi guys new to the forum. had alot of help with my mits 73833 model and the 3d adapter from reading this forum so decided to subscribe to the forum. I updated my tv to the 9.03 (had a bit of trouble getting from mits so just downloaded it from here) and works grate now, no more blue screen and I'm using a hdmi switcher. have not gotten glasses yet but optomas are on the way. also on order is is a panny bdt300


----------



## walford




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/19212881
> 
> 
> Following the ball on kickoffs and long passes is very difficult. Had to concentrate very hard to try to follow the ball. I am hoping some of this will be corrected with more effective camera angles as crews get more experienced with filming sports with 3D?



ESPN-3D is broadcast in HDMI 1.4a 720 Top-n-Bottom 3D format

This results in horizontal movement to be at full 1280 pixels per row per eye at 60fps.

However this results in a vertical resoluiton of ony 360 rows per eye.


It appears that nthis format will work better in smaller venues such as hocky and basketball then will work in large venues such as football which have movment of the ball in the vertical direction.


----------



## Jotbill




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19213622
> 
> 
> ESPN-3D is broadcast in HDMI 1.4a 720 Top-n-Bottom 3D format
> 
> This results in horizontal movement to be at full 1280 pixels per row per eye at 60fps.
> 
> However this results in a vertical resoluiton of ony 360 rows per eye.
> 
> 
> It appeas that format will work in smaller venues such as hocky and basketball then will work in large venues such as football which have movment of the ball in the vertical direction.



Very well said, Thank you for the excellent example!


----------



## hoddy4

It's interesting that you mention the 3D being better for smaller venues such as basketball. I was watching both football and basketball (Globetrotters) the other day on a Panasonic 3D HDTV. To me, 3D enhanced the game much more for basketball and gave a much better feeling for actually being at the game. For example, the 3D effect seemed to show the lane openings as players drove to the basket.


----------



## Martinefski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/19201320
> 
> 
> ^^^^^
> 
> I think the overwhelming concensus here is DLP Link glasses for best PQ.



Not my experience that's for sure. I was constantly having both rainbow problems and ghosting with the xpand 102's. The best pq I have seen by far was the nvidia glasses, but I ended up going with the Mitsubishi glasses because the hassle of setting up my system to use the nvidia ones. Really the only problem I have had with the mitsubishi ones is the slightly greenish tint to the blacks.


----------



## Martinefski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19213622
> 
> 
> ESPN-3D is broadcast in HDMI 1.4a 720 Top-n-Bottom 3D format
> 
> This results in horizontal movement to be at full 1280 pixels per row per eye at 60fps.
> 
> However this results in a vertical resoluiton of ony 360 rows per eye.
> 
> 
> It appears that nthis format will work better in smaller venues such as hocky and basketball then will work in large venues such as football which have movment of the ball in the vertical direction.



Shows up as side by side on my tv???


----------



## destiny 21

which tv do you have i thought espn was top and bottom not side by side


----------



## walford

If his TV was handling it properly it would not show up in disriobution format on his tV instead of true 3D format.

Possibly he is watching ESPN3D.com and not ESPN-3D.

Or he is referreing to ESPN-3D broadcasts of the world cup whiich were in 1080i/60 SbS since they were "filmed' in 1080i/50 by a South African company and not by ESPN themselves.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19219790
> 
> 
> If his TV was handling it properly it would not show up in disriobution format on his tV instead of true 3D format.
> 
> Possibly he is watching ESPN3D.com and not ESPN-3D.
> 
> Or he is referreing to ESPN-3D broadcasts of the world cup whiich were in 1080i/60 SbS since they were "filmed' in 1080i/50 by a South African company and not by ESPN themselves.



It is my experience that D* outputs everything as SBS, so it apparently converts ESPN-3D to SBS. Maybe he has D*.


----------



## leemathre

I am not at home and unable to test this, but just wondering if anyone has tried the adapter with the PS3 since the new firmware was released today to enable the PS3 to play 3D Blu-ray?


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *leemathre* /forum/post/19223563
> 
> 
> I am not at home and unable to test this, but just wondering if anyone has tried the adapter with the PS3 since the new firmware was released today to enable the PS3 to play 3D Blu-ray?



Yep, worked fine with the one and only 3D Blu-Ray I have, the Disney demo disc that came with the adapter kit.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lee Stewart* /forum/post/19187087
> 
> 
> AFAIK, there are now three 3D BD players that have the dual 1.3 HD Audio/1.4 3D Video outputs on them:
> 
> 
> 
> Samsung BD-C7900 - $399
> 
> 
> Panasonic DMP-BDT300 - $399
> 
> 
> Panasonic DMP-BDT350 - $449 (same as 300 except it has DLNA)
> 
> 
> 
> Those are MSRP prices. You will still need some kind of a multi input HDMI switch that can handle 1.4/1.4a 3D before the 3DC-1000



Interesting that Panny is no longer selling these two at their website.


----------



## Ken H

PS3 3D BD Master Topic: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1278019


----------



## Natrix1973

Yeah, it works just fine.


----------



## div3r5ity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rad* /forum/post/19223577
> 
> 
> Yep, worked fine with the one and only 3D Blu-Ray I have, the Disney demo disc that came with the adapter kit.



same here, going to best buy to buy cloudy today


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *div3r5ity* /forum/post/19223657
> 
> 
> same here, going to best buy to buy cloudy today



I trust you have no other 3D source going to the adapter (Comcast for example)?


----------



## silver91342

Again works fine here with the Disney disc


----------



## div3r5ity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19223699
> 
> 
> I trust you have no other 3D source going to the adapter (Comcast for example)?



cox cable but they aint got no showing for 3d which sucks


----------



## leemathre

Thanks everyone for the responses. Can't wait to get home to check it out. Why do they put out these updates on workdays?


----------



## PBSengineer

Would you rather they put one up Sat morning that trashed the device and you couldn't contact anybody until the following Monday?


----------



## steelers1

just got my software update 9.03 from mitts today. did the update and guess what works like a charm. great day


----------



## audiopho




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steelers1* /forum/post/19224220
> 
> 
> just got my software update 9.03 from mitts today. did the update and guess what works like a charm. great day



need more clarifications, please.


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steelers1* /forum/post/19224220
> 
> 
> just got my software update 9.03 from mitts today. did the update and guess what works like a charm. great day



Wow no more blue screen on the WD xx833 models. So far as I have heard the firmware update to 9.03 is 100% successful in fixing this issue. Congrats!!!


----------



## steelers1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audiopho* /forum/post/19224563
> 
> 
> need more clarifications, please.



i would get blue screen would have to change channels back and forth then 3d would come on. and some times i would have to change input to different one then come back to the other input. now with new update i can change channels back and forth on the sat and no more blue screen.







p.s my tv is the wd-65833


----------



## steelers1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/19224928
> 
> 
> Wow no more blue screen on the WD xx833 models. So far as I have heard the firmware update to 9.03 is 100% successful in fixing this issue. Congrats!!!



thanks have a nice day.


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *steelers1* /forum/post/19224220
> 
> 
> just got my software update 9.03 from mitts today. did the update and guess what works like a charm. great day



Congrats!

I'm still waiting for mine.

When did you order yours?


----------



## steelers1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/19225243
> 
> 
> Congrats!
> 
> I'm still waiting for mine.
> 
> When did you order yours?



called on the 9th of september. in the evening they didn`t get it out till the 10th. good luck with yours let us no how it went. have a nice day.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Lee Stewart* /forum/post/19187087
> 
> 
> AFAIK, there are now three 3D BD players that have the dual 1.3 HD Audio/1.4 3D Video outputs on them:
> 
> 
> 
> Samsung BD-C7900 - $399
> 
> 
> Panasonic DMP-BDT300 - $399
> 
> 
> Panasonic DMP-BDT350 - $449 (same as 300 except it has DLNA)
> 
> 
> 
> Those are MSRP prices. You will still need some kind of a multi input HDMI switch that can handle 1.4/1.4a 3D before the 3DC-1000



OR I could get one that has 7.1 channel audio out (not currently being used on my Denon 3808) and get one like the BD-C6900


----------



## Martinefski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *destiny 21* /forum/post/19219745
> 
> 
> which tv do you have i thought espn was top and bottom not side by side



I don't think it's a TV issue but my TV is a 73-738 although I am using Direct TV maybe that is the difference. All my Direct TV 3D programs come in, in side by side format. Now if Direct TV converts it's content to do so.....?


----------



## hoddy4

I have a 2010 wd60738 and a Panasonic DMP-BDT105 3D blu ray player. The 3D player works fine in 3D when I route it through the Mitsubishi adapter, but will not work in 3D if I connect it directly to the TV. This surprised me since I thought that the player outputs in a checkerboard pattern. When connected directly, it doesn't seem to recognize the TV as being 3D capable. Any ideas?


----------



## reswan01

It looks to me as if the adapter is not deep color compatible. When routed through the adapter, the comcast bars and tones pattern completely crushes blacks when the cable box is set to YCC 4:4:4. When the box is set to RGB, blacks are fine. Has anyone else tried anything like this? When not routing thru the adapter, YCC 4:4:4 produces correct output (good blacks and grays). I have a Mits wd65c8. BTW, the 3d is great, no problems at all (other than the issue above when watching cable (comcast DCX3400 box via HDMI)


----------



## Darin

The crushing of blacks has certainly been noticed by many, but the the fact that it doesn't do that in RGB mode is news to me.


----------



## reswan01

Someone should give it a try and see if they can confirm what I'm seeing. I first noticed it in the info pane at the bottom of the screen when watching cable. With the info bar color set to black (onyx), you usually get a gradient going from gray to black, top to bottom. Going thru the adapter, half of the gradient is completely black when outputting YCC. Switching to RGB restores it to what it is supposed to be.


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoddy4* /forum/post/19226769
> 
> 
> I have a 2010 wd60738 and a Panasonic DMP-BDT105 3D blu ray player. The 3D player works fine in 3D when I route it through the Mitsubishi adapter, *but will not work in 3D if I connect it directly to the TV.* This surprised me since I thought that the player outputs in a checkerboard pattern. When connected directly, it doesn't seem to recognize the TV as being 3D capable. Any ideas?



You did set 3D to checkerboard in the players setup menu, right? Page 21 instructions.


----------



## rad

Anyone else seeing this with the 3DC and a WD73735?


When I first turn on the TV and try to play 3D content the picture blanks out, like it's losing sync between the source and the TV. I see the same type of thing when resolutions change, like from 1080i to 1080p, which is normal. But this goes on for about 10 to 15 minutes from total blank out of video to the occasional breakup to rock solid for as long as I have the TV on. This happens only when actually playing 3D content. I can put the set into 3D mode and view 2D, no problems (except for the color shift).


----------



## reswan01

Does anyone know the rating (speed) of the HDMI cable included with the Mits 3d adapter. If it is not highspeed, could that kill the deep color support, or would the whole thing just not work at all (3d)?


----------



## TViewer2000




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *reswan01* /forum/post/19227353
> 
> 
> Does anyone know the rating (speed) of the HDMI cable included with the Mits 3d adapter. If it is not highspeed, could that kill the deep color support, or would the whole thing just not work at all (3d)?



I would hope that it is high speed rated, but if they are saving some bucks it could be standard speed. I'm using their cable but I'm curious if switching that out will help.


----------



## mardarlene




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TViewer2000* /forum/post/19227431
> 
> 
> I would hope that it is high speed rated, but if they are saving some bucks it could be standard speed. I'm using their cable but I'm curious if switching that out will help.



I played it safe and replaced all my cables with Cat 2 High Speed HDMI...have had no problems with flicker/sync/sound watching 3d movies or games. My thought is you will not have near the problems with 3d movies....but gaming content you must have the cable bandwidth to handle all the changing graphic content...When you think about it..why would you let the HDMI cable be the weakest link...

1. TV - 3600.00

2. Panny 350 - 400.00

3. PS3 - 400

4. Samsumg Home theater - 450.00

5. Starter Kit - 400.00

6. Standard HDMI cable - .01

Just my .02


----------



## walford

All cables that are provided with any 3D equipment are high speed. It is actually hard to still find any non high speed HDMI cables for sale. Changing cables will not help.


----------



## reswan01

My hunch / hope is that the black crush issue that has been widely discussed here might be due to the cable supplied with the adapter rather than the adapter itself. I definitely get the crush issue when using the Mits supplied cable and using YCC output. I will try switching out the cable later tonight. It would be great if that solved the issue.


----------



## reswan01

Switching to RGB output does help tho. I tried it this morning.


----------



## hoddy4

When I set the Panasonic BD105 to checkerboard it works fine directly connected to my WD60738. I also have a Samsung C6800 3D blu ray player. Subjectively, the Panasonic seems to produce better 3D and the Samsung better 2D.


----------



## trauma

just got optoma 3d glasses in yesterday.I have a mits 73833 hr21 receiver and panny bdt300 and see no rainbows.the tv does get a green tint when in 3d mode but as soon as I put on the glasses the blacks look great no issues with the green tint


----------



## JackBarry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Martinefski* /forum/post/19226670
> 
> 
> I don't think it's a TV issue but my TV is a 73-738 although I am using Direct TV maybe that is the difference. All my Direct TV 3D programs come in, in side by side format. Now if Direct TV converts it's content to do so.....?




Your Mitsu 73738 accepts side by side according to Mitsu. Does that mean that you don't need the Mitsu adaptor for Direct TV when they broadcast in side by side?


----------



## walford

No, because D* does not recognize the xx738 or xx838 models without the adapter since they do not currently support all HDMI 1.4a mandatory formats. See:

http://support.directv.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/2754 


Comcast on the other hand AFAIK does support their HDMI 1.4a 3D SbS braodcasts directly with the XX738 and xx838 models.


----------



## PaulGo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19229029
> 
> 
> No, because D* does not recognize the xx738 or xx838 models without the adapter since they do not currently support all HDMI 1.4a mandatory formats. See:
> 
> http://support.directv.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/2754
> 
> 
> Comcast on the other hand AFAIK does support their HDMI 1.4a 3D SbS braodcasts directly with the XX738 and xx838 models.



I believe Comcast does not check the TV sets EDID since their STBs are 1.3 and I can get the side by side or top and bottom signal on any of my non 3D sets even through component (Video on Demand). Plus on my Samsung 3D capable TVs with the mpeg4 3D video stream it was also able to pick up the 3D signal and display it without an adapter (not in 3D yeat since I do not have the 3D adapter).


----------



## trauma

has anyone tried the 3d videos on YouTube they actually work. just set the 3d converter to 3d side by side and put the video to full screen. the res is not great but it is 3d


----------



## ajricaud

Hi, I have 73833 and 65837 Mits TVs. I also have PS3s and 3DC-1000 kits connected to them. I got the 3.50 FW update for the PS3s but couldn't get the 3d to work right.


I finally went to "help" on the PS3s and keyed in 3d in the search box. It then gave me a link to the 3d setup info. After following the instructions and setting the right screen size both are working fine. I hope this might help others who run into this problem.


As an aside, thanks again to all who made the 9.03 Mits FW available for my 73833.


----------



## Martinefski




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JackBarry* /forum/post/19228655
> 
> 
> Your Mitsu 73738 accepts side by side according to Mitsu. Does that mean that you don't need the Mitsu adaptor for Direct TV when they broadcast in side by side?



I think you might be confused with the xx837 or the xx737, I have last years model. But even if you are right the answer is no, Direct TV does not recognize my TV without the adaptor.


----------



## ace182

Any time I have the Mitsubishi 3D1000 hooked up I get screen flicker once the box heats up(the flicker is a white flash on the bottom of the screen when its nice and a black screen for a flash when its really acting up). I first notice this when playing 3d games on the PS3 but didnt think much of it. Now I have the Blu Ray 3.50 update and when playing a movie the flicker is very iritateing. I have also notice that no mater what I run though the adapter(XBOX, Comcast cable, PS3)it still flickers. It is much worse when In 3d mode(when its converting a 3d signal). I cant seem to figure out why heat would make it flicker. The morons at Mitsubishi still have me trouble shooting it and wont replace the box yet. Ive told them I watched an entire 1hr30min movie with the fan on the box and did not have a single flicker. I turn of the fan and let the box get hot and flicker central. Im hopeing a capcitor or heatsink is messed up and causeing it to do that. its going to suck if its just bad hardware design and I will have to modify the box to get it to work. FYI the fan I used is just a run of the mill desk fan. Is anyone else haveing a flicker issue with the 3d1000? Have a fix?


Heres my setup

WD 73833 tv

PS3

3d1000

Highspeed HDMI Cables

Pioneer VSX-1020 HDMI 1.4 Reciver


----------



## john stephens

Ace182,


Your best bet is to return the adapter to the store where you purchased it. Mits just doesn't have the hired guns necessary on their front line to work though subtle problems. The do mean well, but all the same you have to resolve the issue before your period of return lapses. It certainly appears that you have a defective unit that desperately needs to be replaced. My inital adapter was defective and when I couldn't get a timely solution from Mits, I returned the unit to Fry's and exchanged it for a new unit. That newe unit resolved my problem and has been qujite reliable so far. Good luck!


----------



## reswan01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19227591
> 
> 
> All cables that are provided with any 3D equipment are high speed. It is actually hard to still find any non high speed HDMI cables for sale. Changing cables will not help.



You are correct. Switching out the cable didn't make any difference. The black crush issue lies in the adapter itself. I did find that switching the device (cable box, ps3..etc), to RGB rather than YCC 4:4:4 elimininates the black crush issue. Now if I could get my Motorola DCX3400 cable box to hold the RGB setting (not reset to YCC every time it powers up or I switch inputs on the tv) I'd be all set.


----------



## Darin

Thanks for the info on the black crush issue being limited to YCC mode. Unfortunately, however, not every device has an RGB mode. I don't believe my DirecTV DVR does. The alternative is bypassing the adapter for 2D, which at least limits the issue to 3D playback.


----------



## walford

reswan,

I never turn off "off" my Motorola cable box since the disk drive in it runs 24x365 anyway and the only thing turning it "off" does is put it in standby which saves very little power.


----------



## reswan01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19232123
> 
> 
> reswan,
> 
> I never turn off "off" my Motorola cable box since the disk drive in it runs 24x365 anyway and the only thing turning it "off" does is put it in standby which saves very little power.



Thanks. i will leave it on. However, occasionally when I switch inputs on the TV or a resolution change occurs when switching channels, I get a quick "DVI" message on the box and it then resets to YCC. No other settings reset themselves. Has anyone else seen this?


----------



## Cleverland

Have any of you with the WD xx833 tv found a shortcut to switching to 3D mode? It takes about 12 clicks of the remote to get into the menu, over to fxgame then down to 3D mode, switch mode and then a couple clicks to get out of menu. Is there a shorter route to do this???


----------



## mds54

^^^^

I have a WD65833. I have my FX Gaming already set to 3D/On permanently on a separate input than the DVR, BD, etc. I remotely switch the TV menu input to Game, and turn on the 3D adapter. That's it!


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/19233651
> 
> 
> ^^^^
> 
> I have a WD65833. I have my FX Gaming already set to 3D/On permanently on a separate input from the DVR, BD, etc. I remotely switch the TV menu input to Game, and turn on the 3D adapter. That's it!



So you use HDMI switching for your D* reciever to go to adapter and receiver for 2D channels.


----------



## Milmanias




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/19231930
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info on the black crush issue being limited to YCC mode. Unfortunately, however, not every device has an RGB mode.



Please excuse my stupidity, but can someone explain what YCC and RGB modes are? I have an Xbox360, PS3 and Dish 722K; how would I switch to RGB mode (or what I need to know, is RGB a standard term or might it be called something else)?


----------



## Cleverland

I have been waiting to purchase a 3D capable AVR to fix the DirectTV requirment to bypass the older AVRs when viewing 3D channels. Has anyone tested the new 3D receivers with DirctTV to see it they are successful in dealing with DirectTVs EDID requirments? I would be using a Yamaha RXA3000, HR22, Mits adapter and Mits WD 73833...Gosh I would hate to make this purchase only to find out I still have the same problem!!!!!!!


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/19233935
> 
> 
> So you use HDMI switching for your D* reciever to go to adapter and receiver for 2D channels.



I use a HDMI *splitter*:

1) to go from Comcast DVR to TV input _DVR_ for normal 2D

2) to go from Comcast DVR to Mits Adapter to TV input _Game_ for 3D

I simply use my TV remote to switch TV inputs from _DVR_ to _Game_

and then turn on my Mits Adapter for 3D.


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/19235189
> 
> 
> I use a HDMI *splitter*:
> 
> 1) to go from Comcast DVR to TV input _DVR_ for normal 2D
> 
> 2) to go from Comcast DVR to Mits Adapter to TV input _Game_ for 3D
> 
> I simply use my TV remote to switch TV inputs from _DVR_ to _Game_
> 
> and then turn on my Mits Adapter for 3D.



Thanks I can see how that would work. I was trying not to add splitters switchers to my system. I hope buying a 3D AVR will solve some of these issues and limit the number of workarounds required....


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mds54* /forum/post/19235189
> 
> 
> I use a HDMI *splitter*:
> 
> 1) to go from Comcast DVR to TV input _DVR_ for normal 2D
> 
> 2) to go from Comcast DVR to Mits Adapter to TV input _Game_ for 3D
> 
> I simply use my TV remote to switch TV inputs from _DVR_ to _Game_
> 
> and then turn on my Mits Adapter for 3D.



That's what I tried to do but my splitter but it didn't work because it's too old. What is the make and model of the splitter you're using?


----------



## trauma




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I tried to do but my splitter but it didn't work because it's too old. What is the make and model of the splitter you're using?



I use a splitter also i got a no name brand from amazon for $14 and works just fine


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *trauma* /forum/post/19235782
> 
> 
> I use a splitter also i got a no name brand from amazon for $14 and works just fine



Is that a splitter or a switch? I got a switch for $14; but my splitter cost me $46 from Amazon.


----------



## trauma




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmalter0* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Is that a splitter or a switch? I got a switch for $14; but my splitter cost me $46 from Amazon.



yea it is a switcher not a splitter sorry


----------



## jheadley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/19232657
> 
> 
> Have any of you with the WD xx833 tv found a shortcut to switching to 3D mode? It takes about 12 clicks of the remote to get into the menu, over to fxgame then down to 3D mode, switch mode and then a couple clicks to get out of menu. Is there a shorter route to do this???



I have a Denon AVR-3311CI which has dual hdmi out. So one out goes directly to my 833's hdmi 1 input which I use for normal viewing and the second hdmi out from the Denon goes through the 3d adapter into the tv's hdmi 2 input which is set to Game for 3d viewing. Then I programmed two sequences in my Logitech Harmony remote I named Switch to 3D and Switch to 2D. That lets me switch with one button press and has been working pretty well for me.


----------



## jheadley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/19235030
> 
> 
> I have been waiting to purchase a 3D capable AVR to fix the DirectTV requirment to bypass the older AVRs when viewing 3D channels. Has anyone tested the new 3D receivers with DirctTV to see it they are successful in dealing with DirectTVs EDID requirments? I would be using a Yamaha RXA3000, HR22, Mits adapter and Mits WD 73833...Gosh I would hate to make this purchase only to find out I still have the same problem!!!!!!!



I have a Directv HR21 and PS3 going through a Denon AVR-3311CI to my 65833 and the 3D views fine. Well, fine for the first several minutes probably. Then I occasionally will see the screen go black and then the picture reappear along with the 65833's info banner displaying the current input as if the input had been switched. Only happens on 3D and happens with the PS3 and the HR21. I have not tried bypassing the Denon yet to see if it is the reason for that.


----------



## reswan01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milmanias* /forum/post/19234008
> 
> 
> Please excuse my stupidity, but can someone explain what YCC and RGB modes are? I have an Xbox360, PS3 and Dish 722K; how would I switch to RGB mode (or what I need to know, is RGB a standard term or might it be called something else)?



I can only speak for the ps3. In the video settings there is a setting for bd/dvd playback and you can choose between rgb and ycc. I also have this option on my cable box thru Comcast. I believe the games on the ps3 always play in RGB mode.


----------



## Milmanias




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *reswan01* /forum/post/19237486
> 
> 
> I can only speak for the ps3. In the video settings there is a setting for bd/dvd playback and you can choose between rgb and ycc. I also have this option on my cable box thru Comcast. I believe the games on the ps3 always play in RGB mode.



Thanks! I'll change it on the PS3, and hopefully it will be as easy to change for the Xbox and Dish box.


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jheadley* /forum/post/19237317
> 
> 
> I have a Directv HR21 and PS3 going through a Denon AVR-3311CI to my 65833 and the 3D views fine. Well, fine for the first several minutes probably. Then I occasionally will see the screen go black and then the picture reappear along with the 65833's info banner displaying the current input as if the input had been switched. Only happens on 3D and happens with the PS3 and the HR21. I have not tried bypassing the Denon yet to see if it is the reason for that.



OK great and thanks for both of your responses!!! I will assume that the new RXA3000 from Yamaha will allow work with the D* receiver (now if they will just start shipping it!) and will try programming my Harmony remote once I can start using it again..It will be very nice to get back to a clean connection scheme with everything going thru the AVR!!!


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jheadley* /forum/post/19237305
> 
> 
> I have a Denon AVR-3311CI which has dual hdmi out. So one out goes directly to my 833's hdmi 1 input which I use for normal viewing and the second hdmi out from the Denon goes through the 3d adapter into the tv's hdmi 2 input which is set to Game for 3d viewing. Then I programmed two sequences in my Logitech Harmony remote I named Switch to 3D and Switch to 2D. That lets me switch with one button press and has been working pretty well for me.



This is the best idea yet for me because I have the 2311CI so I wouldn't need a splitter. What do you need to change on the Denon to go from the first output to the second output?


----------



## mds54




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/19235292
> 
> 
> That's what I tried to do but my splitter but it didn't work because it's too old. What is the make and model of the splitter you're using?



You'll need a 1.3 HDMI powered splitter like this:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2


----------



## Wryker

Well here's my update:

The splitter/switch was tested to see if I could pass one HDMI out to the 3D adapter to my 73835 and the other HDMI out for audio to my Denon 3808.

The test results are as follows:

HD Tivo w/Comcast 3D - video - success

HD Tivo w/Comcast 3D - audio - success

PS3 3D game - video - success

PS3 3D game - audio - success

PS3 3D BD - video - success

PS3 3D BD - audio - FAIL

PS3 BD - audio - pass

PS3 BD - video - pass


It lights up "analog" and DTS on my AVR display but since it's an HDMI input nothing comes out. It's interesting that audio for the 3D game worked and so did regular BDs but not for 3D BDs (the only one I have is the Disney 3D BD disc that came with the 3D kit).

I'm stumped as why it works for everything but the audio from a 3D BD.


----------



## pjb16




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19239594
> 
> 
> Well here's my update:
> 
> The splitter/switch was tested to see if I could pass one HDMI out to the 3D adapter to my 73835 and the other HDMI out for audio to my Denon 3808.
> 
> The test results are as follows:
> 
> HD Tivo w/Comcast 3D - video - success
> 
> HD Tivo w/Comcast 3D - audio - success
> 
> PS3 3D game - video - success
> 
> PS3 3D game - audio - success
> 
> PS3 3D BD - video - success
> 
> PS3 3D BD - audio - FAIL
> 
> PS3 BD - audio - pass
> 
> PS3 BD - video - pass
> 
> 
> It lights up "analog" and DTS on my AVR display but since it's an HDMI input nothing comes out. It's interesting that audio for the 3D game worked and so did regular BDs but not for 3D BDs (the only one I have is the Disney 3D BD disc that came with the 3D kit).
> 
> I'm stumped as why it works for everything but the audio from a 3D BD.



Your 3808 won't pass the 3D video through using just one HDMI?


----------



## Av8tr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/19235030
> 
> 
> I have been waiting to purchase a 3D capable AVR to fix the DirectTV requirment to bypass the older AVRs when viewing 3D channels. Has anyone tested the new 3D receivers with DirctTV to see it they are successful in dealing with DirectTVs EDID requirments? I would be using a Yamaha RXA3000, HR22, Mits adapter and Mits WD 73833...Gosh I would hate to make this purchase only to find out I still have the same problem!!!!!!!



Like Jheadly, I too am using a Denon 3311c and it works perfectly with 3D. Great all around AVR too.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pjb16* /forum/post/19240111
> 
> 
> Your 3808 won't pass the 3D video through using just one HDMI?



When I first tested it I tried passing through the PS3 - 3808 (non-3D ready receiver) - 3D adapter - TV and it didnt' work: i got audio but the video was 'scrambled'.

When I tried the Disney 3D BD I got no video - just a blank screen and no audio.

That's why I tried the splitter/switch.

I don't understand why the video for all 3D and 2D plays fine and all the audio plays fine except for 3D BD!


----------



## PaulGo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19239594
> 
> 
> Well here's my update:
> 
> The splitter/switch was tested to see if I could pass one HDMI out to the 3D adapter to my 73835 and the other HDMI out for audio to my Denon 3808.
> 
> The test results are as follows:
> 
> HD Tivo w/Comcast 3D - video - success
> 
> HD Tivo w/Comcast 3D - audio - success
> 
> PS3 3D game - video - success
> 
> PS3 3D game - audio - success
> 
> PS3 3D BD - video - success
> 
> PS3 3D BD - audio - FAIL
> 
> PS3 BD - audio - pass
> 
> PS3 BD - video - pass
> 
> 
> It lights up "analog" and DTS on my AVR display but since it's an HDMI input nothing comes out. It's interesting that audio for the 3D game worked and so did regular BDs but not for 3D BDs (the only one I have is the Disney 3D BD disc that came with the 3D kit).
> 
> I'm stumped as why it works for everything but the audio from a 3D BD.



Since the PS3 for 3D movies is not capable of HD sound you could use the optical bitstream out witoout any loss of sound quality.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PaulGo* /forum/post/19240472
> 
> 
> Since the PS3 for 3D movies is not capable of HD sound you could use the optical bitstream out witoout any loss of sound quality.



The PS3 automatically downgrades the audio to DTS or DD: and it shows up as the input signal as such BUT as "analog" on my AVR display.


It still doesn't explain why it wouldn't allow the DTS/DD audio to reach my AVR via HDMI unless it only allows it bitstream?!


----------



## TViewer2000

I tried hooking my HTPC thru the 3DC-1000 adapter and after about 2 seconds the screen just turns green. Anyone know what is going on?


----------



## TViewer2000

Also I tried hooking my HTPC to my TV and when I was watching MvA I saw the checkerboard format but it wasn't in 3D.


----------



## DenisG

PS3 and Blu-ray 3D dose not bitstream lossless audio. It gets down graded. There is another thread about this already.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenisG* /forum/post/19240559
> 
> 
> PS3 and Blu-ray 3D dose not bitstream lossless audio. It gets down graded. There is another thread about this already.



I know it doesn't bitstream lossless - it downgrades it but it STILL sends the DTS/DD it so why is it not coming through?


----------



## Darin

Because 3D from Blu-ray is frame packed, and the audio isn't in the "same place" as it is in a 1.3 stream. Your 1.3 receiver doesn't know how to decode the audio from a frame packed 1.4 signal. All the other formats look like a regular HD signal, so it's able to understand that format. See here .


But obviously, since the PS3 can't do HD audio and 3D at the same time, the alternative is switching to optical output during 3D playback.


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19240579
> 
> 
> I know it doesn't bitstream lossless - it downgrades it but it STILL sends the DTS/DD it so why is it not coming through?



Sounds like a question for the PS3 thread.


----------



## NSX1992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/19235030
> 
> 
> I have been waiting to purchase a 3D capable AVR to fix the DirectTV requirment to bypass the older AVRs when viewing 3D channels. Has anyone tested the new 3D receivers with DirctTV to see it they are successful in dealing with DirectTVs EDID requirments? I would be using a Yamaha RXA3000, HR22, Mits adapter and Mits WD 73833...Gosh I would hate to make this purchase only to find out I still have the same problem!!!!!!!



I bought a 3D Integra AVR but it would not work with Fios Verizon Motorola DVR and the adaptor. PS3 and Xbox360 and PC2D(PC3D created double image) would. Had to use optical cable for Fios sound and a switch.


----------



## illthreat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19240579
> 
> 
> I know it doesn't bitstream lossless - it downgrades it but it STILL sends the DTS/DD it so why is it not coming through?



I'm in the same boat as you. I believe Darin to be correct in his explanation as it's the only theory (?) so far that checks out.


Myself I'll be upgrading to (another, sigh) AVR. Just bought my last one in Feb/March and I wasn't thinking 3D wouldn't be compatible as from what I understood 1.3a should have been "enough".


Or you could of course send the audio via optical. There is an option to select multiple audio out connectors so that both HDMI and optical can be hooked up so you don't have to manually switch back and forth. It's in the Audio settings screen on your PS3.


HTH


----------



## Wryker

Instead of buying a new AVR I will buy a new bd player with dual hdmi outs rather than but a new receiver.


----------



## jheadley




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/19238218
> 
> 
> This is the best idea yet for me because I have the 2311CI so I wouldn't need a splitter. What do you need to change on the Denon to go from the first output to the second output?



The button on the Denon remote is called "Monitor Select" and that will switch between the the two hdmi outputs.


----------



## Wryker

So it took me a while to finalize all the cabling, updating my Harmony One, etc but I'm 'done' for now. The 4 x 2 is sending HDMI audio to my receiver for my HDTivo, Xbox 360 and PS3. When I watch a BD movie it outputs whatever audio I select. When I play a 3D BD it defaults to the bitstream/toslink cable I have connected to my Denon.

Tonight is a college fb game on ESPN 3D so I'll be recording that on my Tivo as I did last weeks 3D game to use as another demo source for guests.


----------



## Scubawoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19243725
> 
> 
> So it took me a while to finalize all the cabling, updating my Harmony One, etc but I'm 'done' for now. The 4 x 2 is sending HDMI audio to my receiver for my HDTivo, Xbox 360 and PS3. When I watch a BD movie it outputs whatever audio I select. When I play a 3D BD it defaults to the bitstream/toslink cable I have connected to my Denon.
> 
> Tonight is a college fb game on ESPN 3D so I'll be recording that on my Tivo as I did last weeks 3D game to use as another demo source for guests.



I"m glad you were able to get it working. I think you'll agree with me in the long run it was worth doing.


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jheadley* /forum/post/19243551
> 
> 
> The button on the Denon remote is called "Monitor Select" and that will switch between the the two hdmi outputs.



Thanks, I'll try that next.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scubawoman* /forum/post/19243907
> 
> 
> I"m glad you were able to get it working. I think you'll agree with me in the long run it was worth doing.



Thanks for your help before! Until there are a ton of 3D BD's with HD audio I'll keep pat using the PS3 for 3D.


----------



## Av8tr




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/19240647
> 
> 
> Because 3D from Blu-ray is frame packed, and the audio isn't in the "same place" as it is in a 1.3 stream. Your 1.3 receiver doesn't know how to decode the audio from a frame packed 1.4 signal. All the other formats look like a regular HD signal, so it's able to understand that format. See here .
> 
> 
> But obviously, since the PS3 can't do HD audio and 3D at the same time, the alternative is switching to optical output during 3D playback.



Do you know if that works? I'll go thru my old cable collection later this weekend. I'm pretty sure I have an optical cable buried somewhere in there


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Av8tr* /forum/post/19244368
> 
> 
> Do you know if that works? I'll go thru my old cable collection later this weekend. I'm pretty sure I have an optical cable buried somewhere in there



Yes it does.


----------



## Av8tr

I have a AVR Denon receiver. I was hoping that an optical cable could send the HD audio to my receiver. After doing a bit of research, I found out that optical cable can't send HD/lossless audio, so there's no point in using it in my situation.


Is there a discernible difference in sound between losseless and lossy audio? Is it about the same difference as between MP3 and WAV?


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Av8tr* /forum/post/19245054
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> Is there a discernible difference in sound between losseless and lossy audio? Is it about the same difference as between MP3 and WAV?



Yes there is. I know some people don't believe this but there definitely is. The first time I noticed it was on my copy of "End of Days" on HD DVD. I know the format is dead but just listen to the DVD copy against the HD DVD copy if you can get it. I don't know if it's on blu-ray since I already have it on HD DVD.


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Av8tr* /forum/post/19245054
> 
> 
> I have a AVR Denon receiver. I was hoping that an optical cable could send the HD audio to my receiver. After doing a bit of research, I found out that optical cable can't send HD/lossless audio, so there's no point in using it in my situation.
> 
> 
> Is there a discernible difference in sound between losseless and lossy audio? Is it about the same difference as between MP3 and WAV?



That's a very interesting question--Dolby and DTS claim that at the full bitrate, their lossy codecs (DTS is 1.5mbts) are indistinguishable from the lossless ones. DVD is not at full bitrate.


----------



## Scubawoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19244197
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help before! Until there are a ton of 3D BD's with HD audio I'll keep pat using the PS3 for 3D.



I found out within the last week that Oppo is coming out with a new 3D blu-ray player in 4-6 months that will have dual HDMI. If I hadn't gotten the Panasonic already I would definitely buy that one. I have the previous model BDP-83 which I love. Customer service at Oppo is the best I've ever encountered in the industry. It'll be a little higher in price but in my experience well worth it.


----------



## JackBarry




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Scubawoman* /forum/post/19246568
> 
> 
> I found out within the last week that Oppo is coming out with a new 3D blu-ray player in 4-6 months that will have dual HDMI. If I hadn't gotten the Panasonic already I would definitely buy that one. I have the previous model BDP-83 which I love. Customer service at Oppo is the best I've ever encountered in the industry. It'll be a little higher in price but in my experience well worth it.



Where did you find this out and will it be a multi disc like the BDP-83. I have the BDP-83 and agree with you on its quality


----------



## Scubawoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JackBarry* /forum/post/19247695
> 
> 
> Where did you find this out and will it be a multi disc like the BDP-83. I have the BDP-83 and agree with you on its quality




Here is the thread on the 93.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1278530 


I originally read about it it on blu-ray.com
http://www.blu-ray.com/news/?id=5198


----------



## Dintkin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/19240647
> 
> 
> Because 3D from Blu-ray is frame packed, and the audio isn't in the "same place" as it is in a 1.3 stream. Your 1.3 receiver doesn't know how to decode the audio from a frame packed 1.4 signal. All the other formats look like a regular HD signal, so it's able to understand that format. See here .
> 
> 
> But obviously, since the PS3 can't do HD audio and 3D at the same time, the alternative is switching to optical output during 3D playback.



I have my Panasonic DMP-BDT300 3D Blu-ray player connected directly to my Denon 3808 then to my Mits TV. It plays 3d Blu-ray disks just fine with HD audio in checker board and side by side formats.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dintkin* /forum/post/19249390
> 
> 
> I have my Panasonic DMP-BDT300 3D Blu-ray player connected directly to my Denon 3808 then to my Mits TV. It plays 3d Blu-ray disks just fine with HD audio in checker board and side by side formats.



No 3D adapter that connects to your Mitsy?


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dintkin* /forum/post/19249390
> 
> 
> I have my Panasonic DMP-BDT300 3D Blu-ray player connected directly to my Denon 3808 then to my Mits TV. It plays 3d Blu-ray disks just fine with HD audio in checker board and side by side formats.



But I presume you are using the checkerboard output of the Panasonic player. In that situation, the Panasonic is converting the packed frame format to checkerboard before it even gets out of the player. A checkerboard 3d format "looks" just like any other 1080p signal, so 1.3 equipment can handle it just fine. It's players that output in 3d Blu-ray's native packed frame format that cause problems for 1.3 equipment.


----------



## Dintkin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/19250149
> 
> 
> But I presume you are using the checkerboard output of the Panasonic player. In that situation, the Panasonic is converting the packed frame format to checkerboard before it even gets out of the player. A checkerboard 3d format "looks" just like any other 1080p signal, so 1.3 equipment can handle it just fine. It's players that output in 3d Blu-ray's native packed frame format that cause problems for 1.3 equipment.



Side by Side works as well.






I dont use the adapter with the player but it has to be set for the checker board format to view it properly.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dintkin* /forum/post/19252192
> 
> 
> Side by Side works as well.



Correct. As I said, "All the other formats look like a regular HD signal, so it's able to understand that format". It's specifically the frame packed signal that causes issues. And in your case, you aren't sending a frame packed signal through your AVR (because you're converting it to checkerboard first), so you have no issues.


----------



## Dintkin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/19252206
> 
> 
> Correct. As I said, "All the other formats look like a regular HD signal, so it's able to understand that format". It's specifically the frame packed signal that causes issues. And in your case, you aren't sending a frame packed signal through your AVR (because you're converting it to checkerboard first), so you have no issues.



I am not converting it in the video. it is sent out as side by side. for me to watch it normally i need it to be set as checker board since i dont use an adapter with the player.


----------



## Darin

I'm sorry, I just don't understand what your question or point is. Wryker was asking why his 1.3 receiver couldn't handle the audio from 3D Blu-ray as played back from is PS3. I responded that the frame packed format places the audio in a different place in the HDMI signal, which his 1.3 receiver doesn't understand. All the other (current) 3D formats essentially look the same to a 1.3 receiver, so they shouldn't have problems with audio from those formats.


Your situation is different, because unlike the PS3, your Panasonic player will convert the frame packed signal to checkerboard, which a 1.3 receiver shouldn't have a problem with. It also shouldn't have a problem with side by side. Or top/bottom.


----------



## Dintkin

you said

"Because 3D from Blu-ray is frame packed, and the audio isn't in the "same place" as it is in a 1.3 stream. Your 1.3 receiver doesn't know how to decode the audio from a frame packed 1.4 signal. All the other formats look like a regular HD signal, so it's able to understand that format. See here."


When using the side by side format with the player it is sending the frame packed 1.4 stream. you say a 1.3 AVR cannot decode the audio from a 1.4 stream which isn't true in this case.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dintkin* /forum/post/19252393
> 
> 
> When using the side by side format with the player it is sending the frame packed stream.



I'm confused. Are you saying that your player is converting side by side format to frame packed? The youtube video you posted showed an undecoded side by side format.


----------



## Dintkin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/19252435
> 
> 
> I'm confused. Are you saying that your player is converting side by side format to frame packed? The youtube video you posted showed an undecoded side by side format.



I am confused as well. My AVR is decoding the audio. DTS HD Master. you said the 3D blu-Ray was frame packed. so i can only assume when playing the full HD 3D side by side format it is frame packed 1.4 stream.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Dintkin* /forum/post/19252523
> 
> 
> you said the 3D blu-Ray was frame packed. so i can only assume when playing the full HD 3D side by side format it is frame packed 1.4 stream.



It can't be both. The signal is either side by side, or it's frame packed (or checkerboard, or top/bottom). Most 3D blu-ray players will output 3D blu-ray as a frame packed signal. That is (currently) the only way to get a "full HD" 3D signal via HDMI. However, the Panasonics have the option of converting to other formats (checkerboard, side by side, I don't know about top/bottom). If you set the output to one of those, it's no longer a frame packed signal. It's been converted to one that is formatted like any other HD signal, so a 1.3 receiver doesn't have problems with it. And TVs that don't understand frame packed (legacy 3D ready DLPs) can display it without the 3D adapter.


----------



## walford

Side-by-Side is not 1920x1080 side-by-side it is 960x1080 side-by-side in one 1920x1800 frame so it is 1/2 the resoution of packed dual 1080p buffers which is the standard 3D output of the 3D Blu-ray players.

Also I am not aware of any 3D- BR players that offer 1/2R SbS output.


----------



## Dintkin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19253440
> 
> 
> Side-by-Side is not 1920x1080 side-by-side it is 960x1080 side-by-side in one 1920x1800 frame so it is 1/2 the resoution of packed dual 1080p buffers which is the standard 3D output of the 3D Blu-ray players.
> 
> Also I am not aware of any 3D- BR players that offer 1/2R SbS output.



yea just did some reading... sorry i assumed side by side was full HD..


Sorry again


Dan


----------



## 3D4Me

Hello,


I'm a new member and have searched this thread high and low for a similar problem and solution but could not find it. Here's my setup:


Mitsubishi WD65738 tv

3DC-1000 adapter

Denon AVR 1911 a/v receiver

PS3

Sony BDP S570 3D bluray player

Motorola DCX3400m set top box (Comcast)


My problem is with my DCX3400 set top box. My 3DC-1000 is connected between my TV and receiver. My PS3 and bluray player are connected to my receiver via HDMI and work flawlessly producing audio and 2D/3D video. When I connect the DCX3400 cable box to the receiver via HDMI, I get audio for about 15 seconds and the screen just flickers. Comcast sent a technician out a few days ago but he apparently had no idea that 3D service was being offered by Comcast so he was of no help.


In order to watch cable TV I have to connect the DCX3400 directly to the 2nd HDMI port of my TV for video and an optical cable to the receiver for sound. With this setup I cannot effectively watch the ESPN 3D channel or on-demand 3D programs. I can tune to the channels and see the T/B image on the screen but I cant toggle any 3D modes with my adapter. My understanding is that to watch 3D programing the DCX3400 has to flow through the 3D adapter. Anyone know how to get the cable box to work as my as my PS3 and bluray player work when connected to my receiver? Any help would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## PBSengineer

You need to set the set top box to not allow 1080p24 - the adapter will not handle that. Set the output to be 1080i.


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3D4Me* /forum/post/19254551
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I'm a new member and have searched this thread high and low for a similar problem and solution but could not find it. Here's my setup:
> 
> 
> Mitsubishi WD65738 tv
> 
> 3DC-1000 adapter
> 
> Denon AVR 1911 a/v receiver
> 
> PS3
> 
> Sony BDP S570 3D bluray player
> 
> Motorola DCX3400m set top box (Comcast)
> 
> 
> My problem is with my DCX3400 set top box. My 3DC-1000 is connected between my TV and receiver. My PS3 and bluray player are connected to my receiver via HDMI and work flawlessly producing audio and 2D/3D video. When I connect the DCX3400 cable box to the receiver via HDMI, I get audio for about 15 seconds and the screen just flickers. Comcast sent a technician out a few days ago but he apparently had no idea that 3D service was being offered by Comcast so he was of no help.
> 
> 
> In order to watch cable TV I have to connect the DCX3400 directly to the 2nd HDMI port of my TV for video and an optical cable to the receiver for sound. With this setup I cannot effectively watch the ESPN 3D channel or on-demand 3D programs. I can tune to the channels and see the T/B image on the screen but I cant toggle any 3D modes with my adapter. My understanding is that to watch 3D programing the DCX3400 has to flow through the 3D adapter. Anyone know how to get the cable box to work as my as my PS3 and bluray player work when connected to my receiver? Any help would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## reswan01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *reswan01* /forum/post/19226910
> 
> 
> Someone should give it a try and see if they can confirm what I'm seeing. I first noticed it in the info pane at the bottom of the screen when watching cable. With the info bar color set to black (onyx), you usually get a gradient going from gray to black, top to bottom. Going thru the adapter, half of the gradient is completely black when outputting YCC. Switching to RGB restores it to what it is supposed to be.




Has anyone else been able to confirm this with their setup? (adapter crushing black in YCC mode and not in RGB). I want to make sure it is not unique to my setup.


----------



## NSX1992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3D4Me* /forum/post/19254551
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I'm a new member and have searched this thread high and low for a similar problem and solution but could not find it. Here's my setup:
> 
> 
> Mitsubishi WD65738 tv
> 
> 3DC-1000 adapter
> 
> Denon AVR 1911 a/v receiver
> 
> PS3
> 
> Sony BDP S570 3D bluray player
> 
> Motorola DCX3400m set top box (Comcast)
> 
> 
> My problem is with my DCX3400 set top box. My 3DC-1000 is connected between my TV and receiver. My PS3 and bluray player are connected to my receiver via HDMI and work flawlessly producing audio and 2D/3D video. When I connect the DCX3400 cable box to the receiver via HDMI, I get audio for about 15 seconds and the screen just flickers. Comcast sent a technician out a few days ago but he apparently had no idea that 3D service was being offered by Comcast so he was of no help.
> 
> 
> In order to watch cable TV I have to connect the DCX3400 directly to the 2nd HDMI port of my TV for video and an optical cable to the receiver for sound. With this setup I cannot effectively watch the ESPN 3D channel or on-demand 3D programs. I can tune to the channels and see the T/B image on the screen but I cant toggle any 3D modes with my adapter. My understanding is that to watch 3D programing the DCX3400 has to flow through the 3D adapter. Anyone know how to get the cable box to work as my as my PS3 and bluray player work when connected to my receiver? Any help would be greatly appreciated!



I believe you need to connect the cable box directly to the adaptor to TV to watch 3D and the optical cable to the AVR for sound. I used a 4x1(only 2 inputs required) switch to switch between my FIOS input (bypassing AVR) and AVR input which had all the others(PS3,Xbox,camcorder).


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *reswan01* /forum/post/19256359
> 
> 
> Has anyone else been able to confirm this with their setup? (adapter crushing black in YCC mode and not in RGB). I want to make sure it is not unique to my setup.



I believe everyone gets crushed blacks through the adapter(in 2D); I haven't tried RGB( I split my cablebox output to avoid the adapter for 2D). But I will try it for my BR, which isn't split.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmalter0* /forum/post/19257125
> 
> 
> I believe everyone gets crushed blacks through the adapter(in 2D); I haven't tried RGB( I split my cablebox output to avoid the adapter for 2D). But I will try it for my BR, which isn't split.



Watching Comcast3D through my HDTivo is fine - I don't see any crushing.


----------



## reswan01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19257853
> 
> 
> Watching Comcast3D through my HDTivo is fine - I don't see any crushing.



Does your TIVO have the option of switching between RGB and YCC? If so do you see any difference between the two?


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *reswan01* /forum/post/19257972
> 
> 
> Does your TIVO have the option of switching between RGB and YCC? If so do you see any difference between the two?



No - no option for that on the TiVo.


----------



## reswan01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19258084
> 
> 
> No - no option for that on the TiVo.



On the Comcast DCX3400, I can see a very clear difference (2d programming)when:

Setting box to YCC mode with no Mits adapter (great colors, blacks and grays)

Setting box to YCC mode running thru Mits adapter (CRUSHED blacks and grays)

Setting box to RGB mode with no Mits adapter (good blacks and grays)

Setting box to RGB mode running thru Mits adapter (good blacks and grays)


The best possible picture on my Mits wd65c8 is achieved when the box outputs YCC and bypasses the adapter. This leads me to believe that the Mits adapter does not support (correctly) YCC output.


----------



## 3D4Me




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NSX1992* /forum/post/19256901
> 
> 
> I believe you need to connect the cable box directly to the adaptor to TV to watch 3D and the optical cable to the AVR for sound. I used a 4x1(only 2 inputs required) switch to switch between my FIOS input (bypassing AVR) and AVR input which had all the others(PS3,Xbox,camcorder).



I have a a/v receiver that allows me to pass thru 3D devices. If I connect the DCX3400 directly to the adapter then I wont be able to use my other 3D sources (PS3, 3D bluray player) right? I could be wrong but I think the a/v receiver serves as a switch?


----------



## 3D4Me




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PBSengineer* /forum/post/19255448
> 
> 
> You need to set the set top box to not allow 1080p24 - the adapter will not handle that. Set the output to be 1080i.



Set it to 1080i only?


----------



## NSX1992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3D4Me* /forum/post/19258817
> 
> 
> I have a a/v receiver that allows me to pass thru 3D devices. If I connect the DCX3400 directly to the adapter then I wont be able to use my other 3D sources (PS3, 3D bluray player) right? I could be wrong but I think the a/v receiver serves as a switch?



My 1.4 3D Integra AVR would not let cable through with the adaptor. Fios would work with either AVR or adaptor(required for 3D) but not both. If your DCX3400 works for 3D bypassing your AVR then there is a solution. Yes the AVR does switch various inputs but for some odd reason the HDMI devices did not have proper handshakes and thus not every device(cable)works. I bought the new 3D AVR to avoid all these problems but it did not.


I bought my 4x1HDMI switch for about $30 from Monoprice. The switch has a remote control. By using the switch you can use all your sources. I spent days reading this forum to find this solution.

DCX3400 to switch(input1) to 3DC-1000 to TV (optical cable to AVR)

PS3 and 3D bluray player to AVR to switch(input2) to 3DC to TV


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *PBSengineer* /forum/post/19255448
> 
> 
> You need to set the set top box to not allow 1080p24 - the adapter will not handle that. Set the output to be 1080i.



Does the Moto 3400 even output 1080p24? The indicator says only 1080i.


----------



## 3D4Me




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NSX1992* /forum/post/19260254
> 
> 
> My 1.4 3D Integra AVR would not let cable through with the adaptor. Fios would work with either AVR or adaptor(required for 3D) but not both. If your DCX3400 works for 3D bypassing your AVR then there is a solution. Yes the AVR does switch various inputs but for some odd reason the HDMI devices did not have proper handshakes and thus not every device(cable)works. I bought the new 3D AVR to avoid all these problems but it did not.
> 
> 
> I bought my 4x1HDMI switch for about $30 from Monoprice. The switch has a remote control. By using the switch you can use all your sources. I spent days reading this forum to find this solution.
> 
> DCX3400 to switch(input1) to 3DC-1000 to TV (optical cable to AVR)
> 
> PS3 and 3D bluray player to AVR to switch(input2) to 3DC to TV



Thanks, I'll try that and see what happens. There wouldn't happen to be a picture of that setup in these forums would it?


----------



## NSX1992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3D4Me* /forum/post/19261427
> 
> 
> Thanks, I'll try that and see what happens. There wouldn't happen to be a picture of that setup in these forums would it?



No. I drew a diagram per the setup listed and then it made sense.My setup is even more complicated because of my PC. I bought a powerful PC, Nvidia3D Vision kit and PowerDVD 10 Ultra. I tried hooking the PC to the AVR and it was ok except 3D caused a double image. Apparently the signal got delayed by having to go through the AVR to switch to adaptor to TV. So I connected the PC to TV HDMI input2 and PC sound to AVR by another optical cable. The PC has expanded my 3D source material greatly.


----------



## shaggy59

I am having the same issues wit the PS3 and BDP-S570 not displaying correctly in 3D. I have set the screen size, but the adapter does not display the 3D correctly. I have Directv and it works great with the 9.03 firmware up date installed on the TV. I will check the PS3 help section for the correct setup. Thanks Shaggy


----------



## ajricaud




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shaggy59* /forum/post/19269519
> 
> 
> I will check the PS3 help section for the correct setup. Thanks Shaggy



Type in 3d in the search box in the PS3's "help". It will get you the info you need to display 3d properly.


----------



## 3D4Me




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NSX1992* /forum/post/19260254
> 
> 
> My 1.4 3D Integra AVR would not let cable through with the adaptor. Fios would work with either AVR or adaptor(required for 3D) but not both. If your DCX3400 works for 3D bypassing your AVR then there is a solution. Yes the AVR does switch various inputs but for some odd reason the HDMI devices did not have proper handshakes and thus not every device(cable)works. I bought the new 3D AVR to avoid all these problems but it did not.
> 
> 
> I bought my 4x1HDMI switch for about $30 from Monoprice. The switch has a remote control. By using the switch you can use all your sources. I spent days reading this forum to find this solution.
> 
> DCX3400 to switch(input1) to 3DC-1000 to TV (optical cable to AVR)
> 
> PS3 and 3D bluray player to AVR to switch(input2) to 3DC to TV



Just to give you an update, I connected the DCX3400 directly to the 3DC-1000 and connected optical to the AVR as you suggested and it worked! I also ordered the 4x1HDMI switch from Monoprice to complete the setup. It hasn't arrived yet but I'm feeling pretty confident that it will solve my problem. Thanks bro!


----------



## Zapix

A few people sent me PMs asking for the WD xx833 9.03 firmware. So here's are 2 fresh links to rapidshare uploads I just made.


http://rapidshare.com/files/42253007...are_Update.zip 


http://rapidshare.com/files/42253084...are_Update.zip 


Enjoy


----------



## mds54

^^^

I've been waiting for mine for over a month, and Mits still has no record of it ever shipping.


What's involved with the zip files? How does one load a USB stick?


----------



## Zapix

Just download the .zip file from one of the links. Decompress with windows or WinZip, WinRar or whatever depcompression you have available.


I put a .txt file in there with specific directions... But basically you just copy all the files from a folder onto a USB stick, and put the USB stick into the USB slot on the TV.


Might also be work noting that I think the USB stick has to be formatted as FAT or FAT32. I used an old 32mb stick I had laying around so it was FAT only. I read FAT wouldn't work somewhere, but it did.


Also, been 10+ years since I've used a mac, so I'm not sure how Apple OS works or if it even has a default way to decompress zip files. If not, (I just had to google this up to confirm it) StuffIt will decompress .zip files.


----------



## dunigan1

thanks for the download. I updated my 73833 from 9.01 to 9.03 and worked fine. So far haven't had blue screen issues after the update.


----------



## ShawnSteele

Did you figure out if the Samsung kids glasses work with the mitsubishi TV?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jesse E* /forum/post/18884041
> 
> 
> I would imagine that if the Samsung SSG-2100AB glasses worked perfectly, then the Samsung SSG-2200KR (kids model) should also.....



(Also: do the samsung glasses require the reverse switch?)


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ShawnSteele* /forum/post/19280757
> 
> 
> Did you figure out if the Samsung kids glasses work with the mitsubishi TV?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Also: do the samsung glasses require the reverse switch?)



Don't know about the kids but used the adult along with the glasses that come with the Mits 3DC kit and don't need reverse, they both work at the same time fine.


----------



## walford

The Samsung and the Mits kit glases are the same with different brand labels on them therfore they use the same IR emitter. Whether the glases run in normal mode or in reverse mode depends on if the emitter is plugged directly into the TV or into the Mits adapter


----------



## tariqosuave




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19281226
> 
> 
> The Samsung and the Mits kit glases are the same with different brand labels on them therfore they use the same IR emitter. Whether the glases run in normal mode or in reverse mode depends on if the emitter is plugged directly into the TV or into the Mits adapter



How's that? when does it work on reverse?


----------



## walford

When using the adapter it will reverse the mode (normal or reverse) that it received from the connection on the TV

So if you have the TV set to use normal mode on the built in emitter then using the adapter would supply reverse mode to the glases.


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19282131
> 
> 
> When using the adapter it will reverse the mode (normal or reverse) that it received from the connection on the TV
> 
> So if you have the TV set to use normal mode on the built in emitter then using the adapter would supply reverse mode to the glases.



So you're saying that by changing the emitter from adapter to tv outputs you can make the ir and Xpand 102 work together?


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19282131
> 
> 
> When using the adapter it will reverse the mode (normal or reverse) that it received from the connection on the TV
> 
> So if you have the TV set to use normal mode on the built in emitter then using the adapter would supply reverse mode to the glases.



I thought some had already tested this to see if that was why Mits did the daisy chain thing, and found that it made no difference. It's too much of a PITA for me to get behind the TV to test it, but I can say that I have mine connected to the TV, and most things work in "normal" mode.


----------



## walford

My response is based on the excellent informatin provided in the following post by Tru3D007:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/newre...ply&p=19266508


----------



## 3D4Me




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NSX1992* /forum/post/19260254
> 
> 
> My 1.4 3D Integra AVR would not let cable through with the adaptor. Fios would work with either AVR or adaptor(required for 3D) but not both. If your DCX3400 works for 3D bypassing your AVR then there is a solution. Yes the AVR does switch various inputs but for some odd reason the HDMI devices did not have proper handshakes and thus not every device(cable)works. I bought the new 3D AVR to avoid all these problems but it did not.
> 
> 
> I bought my 4x1HDMI switch for about $30 from Monoprice. The switch has a remote control. By using the switch you can use all your sources. I spent days reading this forum to find this solution.
> 
> DCX3400 to switch(input1) to 3DC-1000 to TV (optical cable to AVR)
> 
> PS3 and 3D bluray player to AVR to switch(input2) to 3DC to TV



Ive connected all devices as you suggested but now the output for my PS3 and Blu ray player are fuzzy. Did I miss something?


----------



## bcterp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19283507
> 
> 
> My response is based on the excellent informatin provided in the following post by Tru3D007:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/newre...ply&p=19266508



Doesn't work that way on my WD-73837. The Mitsubishi glasses sync the same when connected to the adapter or the TV itself. That post seems to be specific to Samsung DLPs so maybe they function differently. But I can say that the adapter does not reverse the sync on my setup.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcterp* /forum/post/19284045
> 
> 
> Doesn't work that way on my WD-73837. The Mitsubishi glasses sync the same when connected to the adapter or the TV itself. That post seems to be specific to Samsung DLPs so maybe they function differently. But I can say that the adapter does not reverse the sync on my setup.



I can confirm that it also doesn't work that way for a WD65C9. Used standard setting either way.


----------



## NSX1992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *3D4Me* /forum/post/19283917
> 
> 
> Ive connected all devices as you suggested but now the output for my PS3 and Blu ray player are fuzzy. Did I miss something?



Is yours a 2010 MITSUBISHI? Mine is 2009. That could be the only difference. My PS3 plays games and 3D bluray movies in 3D fine through the switch and adaptor. It sounds by adding the HDMI switch to your circuit caused problems. I don't know why. Sorry. Sometimes when I don't get a picture I turn the switch off and on and that resets it.


----------



## 3D4Me




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NSX1992* /forum/post/19288125
> 
> 
> Is yours a 2010 MITSUBISHI? Mine is 2009. That could be the only difference. My PS3 plays games and 3D bluray movies in 3D fine through the switch and adaptor. It sounds by adding the HDMI switch to your circuit caused problems. I don't know why. Sorry. Sometimes when I don't get a picture I turn the switch off and on and that resets it.



Yes, mine is a 2010 Mitsubishi. I can't imagine why that would have anything to do with it. I was reading that the switch supports up to 6.5 gbps and my HDMI cables are 10.2 gbps. Do you think that could be the problem?


----------



## Wryker

Ok everyone - after many trials and tribulations I have a 'map' for those with the following:

HDTiVo

PS3

WD-73835

3D adapter

Monoprice 4x2 splitter/switch

Denon 3808 AVR

optional items that I also have

Wii

CD Recorder

PS2

Popcorn Hour A110 (PCH)

Monoprice 5 x 1 switch

Xbox 360

HDDVD player


Items connected directly to the AVR:

PCH (HDMI)

Monoprice 5 x 1 switch (HDMI)

Monoprice 4 x 2 splitter switch (HDMI)

HD TiVo (HDMI)

PS3 (Optical)

PS2 (Component & Optical)

CD-Recorder (Coaxial)


Connected to the input Monoprice 4 x 2

AVR

PS3


Ouput of the Monoprice 4 x 2

AVR (HDMI)

3D ADAPTER (HDMI)


Connected to TV

Wii (Component)

3D ADAPTER (HDMI)


Connected to Monoprice 5 x 1 splitter

XBOX 360 (HDMI)

HDDVD Player (HDMI)


The only game I've tested for 3D is the PS3 download ATV racer. That plays audio through the HDMI and the AVR displays all speakers (MULTI-CHAN)

For 3D BDs the options are to listen to it via Dolby PLx II or I have to 'configure' the PS3 audio to Optical bitstream and then I get Dolby Digital.

To watch BDs, play a 3D PS3 game again, I do the audio set-up (again) for HDMI and select all the options.

3D works for ESPN3D via the HDTivo (Comcast) and 3D works for BD via PS3 and 3D for PS3 games.


----------



## walford

NO, 10.2 gbps is all that is required for HDMO1.4a 3D.


----------



## Milmanias

Wryker, thanks for sharing.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19288245
> 
> 
> Connected to the input Monoprice 4 x 2
> 
> AVR
> 
> PS3
> 
> 
> Ouput of the Monoprice 4 x 2
> 
> AVR (HDMI)
> 
> 3D ADAPTER (HDMI)
> 
> 
> Connected to TV
> 
> Wii (Component)
> 
> 3D ADAPTER (HDMI)



Something I don't understand. You have both the AVR's input and output connected to the 4 X 2. Why did you do it this way? I am thinking of getting a 4 X 2 switch, but connecting it this way.


PS3, Xbox 360, Dish 722 K connected to 4 X 2 inputs

AVR, 3D adapter inputs connected to 4 X 2 outputs

AVR, 3D adapter outputs connected to different HDMI inputs on TV.


Also, sould you give the model number of the 4 x 2 switch? They have several at Monoprice, the one that I have seen confirmed to work for 3D has the outputs on each side and I'd rather have all the inputs and outputs on the back.


Thanks


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Milmanias* /forum/post/19290382
> 
> 
> Wryker, thanks for sharing.
> 
> 
> Something I don't understand. You have both the AVR's input and output connected to the 4 X 2. Why did you do it this way? I am thinking of getting a 4 X 2 switch, but connecting it this way.
> 
> 
> PS3, Xbox 360, Dish 722 K connected to 4 X 2 inputs
> 
> AVR, 3D adapter inputs connected to 4 X 2 outputs
> 
> AVR, 3D adapter outputs connected to different HDMI inputs on TV.
> 
> 
> Also, sould you give the model number of the 4 x 2 switch? They have several at Monoprice, the one that I have seen confirmed to work for 3D has the outputs on each side and I'd rather have all the inputs and outputs on the back.
> 
> 
> Thanks



The output from the switch is to loop audio to the AVR. The PS3 goes direct into the 4 x 2 so in order to get lossless audio (for BDs etc) the other output goes to my AVR. Monoprice part number 6415.

Also something weird happened after 2 days. I originally had the HDTivo connected to the 4 x 2 but after a day or two I got an error message on my Tivo that the HDMI cable is not acceptable to use so I got no picture nor sound. The 4 x 2 doesn't seem to like having every input used. Not sure the reason, but that's why I used my other splitter (that I had originally taken out of the system) to connect the XBOX 360 & HDDVD player since I rarely use them.


----------



## ajricaud

Does the i.r. emitter turn off when it is connected to the adapter and there is no 3D signal? I have the emitter connected directly to the TV, so it's always on when the TV is on. I suppose the emitter might last longer if it only goes on w/ a 3D signal.


----------



## illthreat




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajricaud* /forum/post/19292847
> 
> 
> Does the i.r. emitter turn off when it is connected to the adapter and there is no 3D signal? I have the emitter connected directly to the TV, so it's always on when the TV is on. I suppose the emitter might last longer if it only goes on w/ a 3D signal.



Mine is on nearly all of the time (emitter). I have it connected to the adapter.


The only time I can 'shut it off' is by turning the 3D on the TV on, then back off again.. strange.


After doing that, the emitter will turn on again on it's own..


----------



## ShadowCVL

Okay I have read through most of this thread, I could use a little help


Here is what I currently Have


WD-65735


Connected to it via HDMI are the following:


Directv HR20-100

Xbox 360

HTPC


I know to go 3D I will need the adapter kit, either the starter pack or the adapter and a set of glasses with an emitter.


I also know I will have to Upgrade the HR20, though I am thinking of dropping TV service anyway since I watch mostly netflix and such.


What I am not so sure about is my HTPC, It has a BluRay drive and outputs the movies just fine, the video card is a radeon 4350 1GB. Can I get the cyberlink 3d blu ray software and it actually work with my card and the mitsu adapter to produce 3d blurays or am I going to have to buy a 3d player or ps3?


Anyone have thoughts?


Thank you so much


----------



## audiopho




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ShadowCVL* /forum/post/19297473
> 
> 
> What I am not so sure about is my HTPC, It has a BluRay drive and outputs the movies just fine, the video card is a radeon 4350 1GB. Can I get the cyberlink 3d blu ray software and it actually work with my card and the mitsu adapter to produce 3d blurays or am I going to have to buy a 3d player or ps3?
> 
> 
> Anyone have thoughts?
> 
> 
> Thank you so much



Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Only certain Nvidia cards can do 3d blu ray.

I do know mine (gtx-480) does 3d blr in coupling with Cyberlink v10


----------



## reggie0766

Wanted to know recommended configuration settings used for sony blue ray s570 dvd player and tv. I purchased a mitsubishi 3d starter kit but color on screen would flcker and be distorted so i returned the unit. wanted to see what configuration settings recommended when i purchase new starter kit


----------



## TechieSooner

So, the 3D gives you half resolution per eye.

Does this mean the PQ is noticeably worse than a 1080p BluRay source in SD?


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TechieSooner* /forum/post/19304054
> 
> 
> So, the 3D gives you half resolution per eye.
> 
> Does this mean the PQ is noticeably worse than a 1080p BluRay source in SD?



I don't believe that anyone has been able to detect poorer resolution on a DLP 3D than a plasma or LED.


----------



## Justin-Dawson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TechieSooner* /forum/post/19304054
> 
> 
> So, the 3D gives you half resolution per eye.
> 
> Does this mean the PQ is noticeably worse than a 1080p BluRay source in SD?



Different people will tell you different things on this (people like to flex their tech knowledge) but I'm sure anyone with DLP 3D will tell you the PQ is awesome. Seems to be much preferred to the ghosting issues with new LED sets.


I believe technically your eyes shouldn't be able to tell the difference since the non-displayed pixels are compensated for by the other eye (but I'm sure 100 posters will feel the need to correct this statement).


----------



## TechieSooner




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Justin-Dawson* /forum/post/19304116
> 
> 
> Different people will tell you different things on this (people like to flex their tech knowledge) but I'm sure anyone with DLP 3D will tell you the PQ is awesome. Seems to be much preferred to the ghosting issues with new LED sets.
> 
> 
> I believe technically your eyes shouldn't be able to tell the difference since the non-displayed pixels are compensated for by the other eye (but I'm sure 100 posters will feel the need to correct this statement).



That's all I was asking is if it was a noticeable difference between 1080p 2D and 1080p 3D (Is it even 1080p 3D??? I guess that's my second question, or does it get down-converted?)


If it's not, that's awesome.


Avatar 3D should be coming out (unless it already has), Black Ops supports 3D... There's getting to be reasons for me to get the equipment.


----------



## Mimiako

Recently my family purchased the 3D starter kit from Mitsubishi and we've had problems with that enough hooking up, but we finally got it to play DvD's. We also just a few days ago purchased Direct TV and have it installed and everything. We (my father and I) went to play one of the three 3D channels and it says we don't have the ability to. We have tried all the hooking up of HDMI cables and everything we're suppose to do and still nothing. It is EXTREMELY frustrating since we switched to Direct TV in hopes of watching these channels.

Our television is a WD-73833.

Any help please? We're at our wits end after spending all this money and not being able to watch the 3D channels! Are we not hooking up the HDMI cables right or what? The installers didn't teach us how to hook it all up, so if you guys could tell us even how or where to start hooking it up, that'd be great.


----------



## lurkor

Since you mentioned 73833, I suspect you will need a firmware update. It has been discussed at length over the last 25 pages or so. There are a lot of helpful xx833 owners who can guide you further.


----------



## haywardw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mimiako* /forum/post/19306028
> 
> 
> Recently my family purchased the 3D starter kit from Mitsubishi and we've had problems with that enough hooking up, but we finally got it to play DvD's. We also just a few days ago purchased Direct TV and have it installed and everything. We (my father and I) went to play one of the three 3D channels and it says we don't have the ability to. We have tried all the hooking up of HDMI cables and everything we're suppose to do and still nothing. It is EXTREMELY frustrating since we switched to Direct TV in hopes of watching these channels.
> 
> Our television is a WD-73833.
> 
> Any help please? We're at our wits end after spending all this money and not being able to watch the 3D channels! Are we not hooking up the HDMI cables right or what? The installers didn't teach us how to hook it all up, so if you guys could tell us even how or where to start hooking it up, that'd be great.



Check out post #2073 for firmware update and leave post if you need more assist. Good luck.


----------



## Athlon646464




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *haywardw* /forum/post/19306300
> 
> 
> Check out post #2073 for firmware update and leave post if you need more assist. Good luck.



I don't have a 78733, so I could be wrong here, but telling him to do the firmware update will not solve his problem IMHO. The firmware update will only _improve_ his 3D experience once he gets it working, but it will not make it happen if he has nothing now.




> Quote:
> Recently my family purchased the 3D starter kit from Mitsubishi and we've had problems with that enough hooking up, but we finally got it to play DvD's. We also just a few days ago purchased Direct TV and have it installed and everything. We (my father and I) went to play one of the three 3D channels and it says we don't have the ability to. We have tried all the hooking up of HDMI cables and everything we're suppose to do and still nothing. It is EXTREMELY frustrating since we switched to Direct TV in hopes of watching these channels.
> 
> Our television is a WD-73833.
> 
> Any help please? We're at our wits end after spending all this money and not being able to watch the 3D channels! Are we not hooking up the HDMI cables right or what? The installers didn't teach us how to hook it all up, so if you guys could tell us even how or where to start hooking it up, that'd be great.



You didn't tell us what you have tried so far, so I'm guessing here. I'm guessing that you have your receiver involved in some way when you are hooking things up.


Try hooking it up like this (without your receiver involved):


DirecTV Box -> Adapter -> TV.


Do not involve your receiver for this test and see if you get 3D. If it does not work, let us know what sort of message you are getting from your DirecTv box on your TV and we'll go from there.


----------



## mardarlene




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mimiako* /forum/post/19306028
> 
> 
> Recently my family purchased the 3D starter kit from Mitsubishi and we've had problems with that enough hooking up, but we finally got it to play DvD's. We also just a few days ago purchased Direct TV and have it installed and everything. We (my father and I) went to play one of the three 3D channels and it says we don't have the ability to. We have tried all the hooking up of HDMI cables and everything we're suppose to do and still nothing. It is EXTREMELY frustrating since we switched to Direct TV in hopes of watching these channels.
> 
> Our television is a WD-73833.
> 
> Any help please? We're at our wits end after spending all this money and not being able to watch the 3D channels! Are we not hooking up the HDMI cables right or what? The installers didn't teach us how to hook it all up, so if you guys could tell us even how or where to start hooking it up, that'd be great.



Okay Mimiako...here are a few helpful tips

1. check the FW version of your 73833...if it is not 9.03 you will need to upgrade.

2. ensure when you want to watch 3d that you "turn on" the 3d gaming on your TV....you have to label the HDMI input you use to either "game" or "pc". So BEFORE watching 3d channels...turn on "fx gaming" and then tune in the 3d channel.

3. As a test as mentioned above...set it up without AVR or reciever....that is ....direct tv box....mits adapter....tv.


with the 73833 the FW upgrade is crucial...as you will NOT get any 3d display to work properly...let me know if you need it and I can send it to you if you provide an email address....Good luck


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mimiako* /forum/post/19306028
> 
> 
> Recently my family purchased the 3D starter kit from Mitsubishi and we've had problems with that enough hooking up, but we finally got it to play DvD's. We also just a few days ago purchased Direct TV and have it installed and everything. We (my father and I) went to play one of the three 3D channels and it says we don't have the ability to. We have tried all the hooking up of HDMI cables and everything we're suppose to do and still nothing. It is EXTREMELY frustrating since we switched to Direct TV in hopes of watching these channels.
> 
> Our television is a WD-73833.
> 
> Any help please? We're at our wits end after spending all this money and not being able to watch the 3D channels! Are we not hooking up the HDMI cables right or what? The installers didn't teach us how to hook it all up, so if you guys could tell us even how or where to start hooking it up, that'd be great.



Mimiako, welcome to the AVS Forum! Several of us in this forum have had the same issues as you are having so if you read thru the huge number of postings you should get an idea of what works and what doesn't. I would suggest that you start by listing the model numbers of the equipment you are using and explain how you have it hooked up. For instance I know you have the following:


Mits TV WD 73833

Mits Adapter 3DC-1000

???What type of glasses do you have ie. Mits shutter glasses or DLP link glasses?

DTV HR24-100

???Are you using an Audio Vidio Reciever


Then explain how you have these connected from the DTV HR24 to the TV and everything in between...


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *illthreat* /forum/post/19293082
> 
> 
> Mine is on nearly all of the time (emitter). I have it connected to the adapter.
> 
> 
> The only time I can 'shut it off' is by turning the 3D on the TV on, then back off again.. strange.
> 
> 
> After doing that, the emitter will turn on again on it's own..



I believe you'll find that it is just the LED on the emitter box that is powered on, not the actual IR emitter bulbs. I doubt your glasses will sync when the red LED is on unless the 3D mode on the TV is also turned on. That is actually unfortunate, because some of us hoped the emitter was firing with 3D mode off so that the DLP Link flash would not be on while watching 3D on our pre-2010 sets. No such luck.


----------



## vinnymac1

i use it with my ps3, and d.tv i also have a pioneer vsx 92 txh! have not tried hooking up to it to see if it will pass through? has any one tried this? i have the mits.wd 65835... also j.j mine does the same thing i have to go in to menu to turn on then off this is kinda dumb? if i wanna watch just regular t.v it turns on..


----------



## Cactus57

Wryker,


I have a question about your map.


I just got my adapter today and have some similar components as you. I discovered that my directv would not work in 3d running through my 3808 so I guess I need a switch.


Mits 65833

3d Adapter

Denon 3808

Dtv Hr21

Xbox 360

Sony BD

Optoma glasses

Harmony One


Currently everything is running into the AVR with one out to the TV.


If I get the 4x2 you have will the following work?


DTV, xbox, and BD input to the 4x2 and output to the AVR, and 3d adapter.


AVR out to Tv input 1.


3d adapter out to Tv input 2.



Thanks.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cactus57* /forum/post/19310556
> 
> 
> Wryker,
> 
> 
> I have a question about your map.
> 
> 
> I just got my adapter today and have some similar components as you. I discovered that my directv would not work in 3d running through my 3808 so I guess I need a switch.
> 
> 
> Mits 65833
> 
> 3d Adapter
> 
> Denon 3808
> 
> Dtv Hr21
> 
> Xbox 360
> 
> Sony BD
> 
> Optoma glasses
> 
> Harmony One
> 
> 
> Currently everything is running into the AVR with one out to the TV.
> 
> 
> If I get the 4x2 you have will the following work?
> 
> 
> DTV, xbox, and BD input to the 4x2 and output to the AVR, and 3d adapter.
> 
> 
> AVR out to Tv input 1.
> 
> 
> 3d adapter out to Tv input 2.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.



I can not say if it will work or not. One thing I do know is the XX833 Mitsy sets must get a firmware upgrade to correctly display 3D- if you haven't upgraded lately, you need to check out the thread.

I have comcast and not DTV so I'm not sure how that would work. I know comcast (via my HDTiVo) works directly through my AVR for sound and picture. I have a Harmony ONE that controls all my devices.

I'm not sure about your glasses since I bought the Mitsy 3D 'pack' several months ago so whatever glasses come with that set.

You mentioned Sony BD but not if it's a PS3 or a non-3D BD player.

Since the PS3 does not pass-thru 3D via the Denon 3808 I use the switch for this purpose (since I need 2 3D inputs).

Otherwise, if DTV only outputs 5.1 than use the optical or coax for your sound output from the DTV and go for a n x 1 output device. I needed the dual output to get lossless audio back to the Denon for the PS3 non-3D BD's. Feel free to PM me.


----------



## Cactus57

I already updated my firmware thanks to this forum.


The Dtv 3d channels worked when I bypassed the 3808.


So I need 2d sources run through the AVR and 3d sources to bypass the AVR for video but still use it for sound.


I may add a ps3 or 3d BD haven't decided yet.


I opted for the DLP link glasses based on recommendations for my older Tv.


----------



## Cactus57

The only other option I can think of is to take the Dtv out of my current setup and run it to the adapter then to Tv input 2. Then use the optical out of the Dtv to the AVR for sound.


This may work until I add another 3d source.


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cactus57* /forum/post/19310750
> 
> 
> The only other option I can think of is to take the Dtv out of my current setup and run it to the adapter then to Tv input 2. Then use the optical out of the Dtv to the AVR for sound.
> 
> 
> This may work until I add another 3d source.



This is how I am set up now and it seems to work ok except for the extra steps to change TV inputs etc. I decided to wait for additional 3D components until I upgrade to a 3D capable AVR. I cringe at the idea of adding HDMI splitters and switches due to the complexity and number of cables...Looks like late November timeframe for 3D Bluray content to start becoming available anyway. Maybe a fun Christmas project: New 3D AVR, 3d Bluray player reconfigure system cabling and reprogram Harmony!!!







Newegg is giving a $500 Promo with purchase of an RXA3000 till 10/10 so I guess this is a Holloween project now!!! Thanks Squishy Tia for the tip!!!!


----------



## Scubawoman




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cactus57* /forum/post/19310622
> 
> 
> I already updated my firmware thanks to this forum.
> 
> 
> The Dtv 3d channels worked when I bypassed the 3808.
> 
> 
> So I need 2d sources run through the AVR and 3d sources to bypass the AVR for video but still use it for sound.
> 
> 
> I may add a ps3 or 3d BD haven't decided yet.
> 
> 
> I opted for the DLP link glasses based on recommendations for my older Tv.



I would suggest a 3D Blu-ray player that has 2 HDMI so it will make hooking up much easier for getting lossless sound.


----------



## Milmanias




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cactus57* /forum/post/19310556
> 
> 
> Wryker,
> 
> 
> I have a question about your map...
> 
> Dtv Hr21...
> 
> If I get the 4x2 you have will the following work?
> 
> 
> DTV, xbox, and BD input to the 4x2 and output to the AVR, and 3d adapter.
> 
> 
> AVR out to Tv input 1.
> 
> 
> 3d adapter out to Tv input 2...



Cactus,


I was thinking of doing the exact same thing so I did some research. I currently have Dish Network but I'm going to lose Fox in November so I'm thinking about doing DirecTV. According to post 1767 and 1768 in this thread (page 59), DirecTV will not work with this switch.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JackBarry* /forum/post/19148366
> 
> 
> Jack,
> 
> 
> ( I have the Panasonic 350 and D* HR24. Yes, the panasonic can be connected directly to the TV in checkerboard mode, with its second HDMI port set to deliver Audio only to the AVR. That works. What I have not been able to get working, is to get a powered switch/splitter to work similarly on a D* HDMI Feed. For D*, I've had to resort to using a Toslink optical feed for the digital Audio, while connecting the HDMI to the adapter(in my case, to a laservue TV). I did try using a Monoprice 4 by 2 switch/ splitter.)
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> 
> Can you cite the Name and Model # of the powered Switch/Splitter that does not work with the Direct TV receiver?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *john stephens* /forum/post/19148388
> 
> 
> Jack,
> 
> 
> Yes, the switch was a Monoprice 4 in 2 out HDMI Matrix Switcher; Model # HDX-420X



Which sucks, because otherwise this switch is all I would need.


Scubawoman confirmed that Octava 3x1 switch works, and they have a 4x2 switch that's 3D capable, but for $349 it's too expensive for me.
http://www.octavainc.com/HDMI%20matr...x2%20port.html 


At this price, I may as well buy a new 3D AVR and move the 1 yr old I have upstairs, but that seems like a waste of money.


What I may end up doing, with very little out of pocket money, is buying 3 HDMI couplers and HDMI cables. This way, I'm using one coupler each with the PS3, DiecTV box and AVR out, and manually connect it to the 3DA-1.


----------



## NSX1992

Even after I bought a 3D 1.4 Integra AVR I still needed a switch to bypass the AVR for FIOS cable and use an optical cable for sound. The PS3 and Xbox360 work through the AVR fine.


----------



## Milmanias




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NSX1992* /forum/post/19312143
> 
> 
> Even after I bought a 3D 1.4 Integra AVR I still needed a switch to bypass the AVR for FIOS cable and use an optical cable for sound.



It's ridiculous that the equipment manufacturers can't get their crap straight, and it's more ridiculous that DirecTV, FIOS, etc are making this harder when side by side and top and bottom 3D would play without any problems through a 1.3 HDMI if they didn't tie it to EDID.


----------



## walford

The TV content providers output content over HDMI that the receiving unit states it can accept using the EDID that it provides. If the receiving unit (avr) does not provide the EDID of the display it is connected to and only the audio EDID that it can accept then that is the fault of the AVR. Some AVR's provide the output display EDID and other's do not.


----------



## Milmanias

Comcast does not require EDID. They had a Golf game last week and it was side by side, no equipment required. They had the 3D special events channel in clear QAM, but now it's encripted. It's not necessary for the content providers to tie the 3D content by EDID, and would be nice if they took this requirement away.


----------



## walford

AFAIK comcast will supply 1080i or 720p HDMI 1.4a Sbs content to any display such as the xx728 and xx738 Mits 2010 models whose EDID states it will support it. However, DirecTV apparenly will not supply any HDMI 1.4a 3D content formts to any display whose EDID does not state that the dispaly supports ALL HDMI1.4a 3D mandadory formats.


----------



## tariqosuave

I have a 60737... I bought the kit now I want more glasses for guests... do I have to stick to the samsung glasses? or can others work without the emitter at the same time or with it at the same time?


----------



## Milmanias




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tariqosuave* /forum/post/19316002
> 
> 
> I have a 60737... I bought the kit now I want more glasses for guests... do I have to stick to the samsung glasses? or can others work without the emitter at the same time or with it at the same time?



The Viewsonic DLP Link glasses can work with the Samsung glasses. Don't buy the Optoma or Xpand DLP Link glasses; they only work in reverse of the Mits/Samsung glasses.


----------



## ptsaras

Ok I'm torn. Anybody tried both the Starter pack and the non emitter glasses like the Optomas?


I can go with a 3DA-1 Adapter kit$99 and Optoma BG-ZD101 DLP Link 3D Glasses $78/ea and put an two person setup together for $257


Or I can get the 3DC-100 kit for $399


Obviously I would like to pay less but I will will go with the better quality. Recommendations?


I've heard that the Optomas perform better than the Expands but am eager to hear if people think the Mits glasses with an emitter do a better job.


BTW I have a Mits 73837, PS3, and Directv HR24


Thanks


----------



## bcterp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ptsaras* /forum/post/19326136
> 
> 
> Ok I'm torn. Anybody tried both the Starter pack and the non emitter glasses like the Optomas?
> 
> 
> I can go with a 3DA-1 Adapter kit$99 and Optoma BG-ZD101 DLP Link 3D Glasses $78/ea and put an two person setup together for $257
> 
> 
> Or I can get the 3DC-100 kit for $399
> 
> 
> Obviously I would like to pay less but I will will go with the better quality. Recommendations?
> 
> 
> I've heard that the Optomas perform better than the Expands but am eager to hear if people think the Mits glasses with an emitter do a better job.
> 
> 
> BTW I have a Mits 73837, PS3, and Directv HR24
> 
> 
> Thanks



Several of us have tried both. I have your exact setup, TV model, PS3 and even cable box. The Mitsubishi emitter glasses have the worst picture quality, bad enough that I am selling them. They are however the most comfortable. The Optoma/Viewsonic glasses have the best picture quality in my opinion, the Xpand glasses are almost as good as the Optoma/Viewsonics the main difference I noticed is that the black levels aren't quite as good and the batteries are proprietary. These glasses may perform differently with 2010 models due to changes in the way 3D is handled.


Samsung is supposedly coming out with a revision to their glasses this year that will increase light transmission and shutter speed. These will support the Mitsubishi emitter just like their current glasses. Xpand's X103 glasses will be out this month and will work with the Mitsubishi emitter. I plan on trying out a pair and seeing how they perform. Their X104 glasses will be out early next year. They will be universal glasses like the X103's but also support DLP-Link. Also, RealD's highly regarded Crystaleyes 5 (dlp-link) glasses recently dropped in price from several hundred to 175. I haven't used them and am not sure it they are worth it compared to the other options though.


If I were you I would get just the adapter and a pair of the Optomas. If you like them then you can pick up more. But there are going to be a bunch of different options in the near future and there isn't a clear best choice just yet between comfort and picture quality.


----------



## ptsaras

Thank you, that's exactly what I needed to know. I'll go with the adapter and the optoma glasses for now and maybe look at other glasses technologies later. Either way it sound like DLP link is the favored of the two types.


Lol it's nice when that happens to be the cheapest route as well!


----------



## walford

If you plan on using DLP_Link glases and Mits glases at the same time you should get the Viewosonic glases instead of the Optimas.


----------



## Cactus57

I received my optical cable today and have my Dtv Hr21 bypassing my 3808 for video. The only downside is no GUI from the AVR. I really like to see the volume on screen.


For those of you with harmony ones and xx833 TV's, were you able to program the remote to turn on TV's 3d mode just by starting an activity? If so how. Thanks.


----------



## trauma




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cactus57* /forum/post/19327168
> 
> 
> I received my optical cable today and have my Dtv Hr21 bypassing my 3808 for video. The only downside is no GUI from the AVR. I really like to see the volume on screen.
> 
> 
> For those of you with harmony ones and xx833 TV's, were you able to program the remote to turn on TV's 3d mode just by starting an activity? If so how. Thanks.



I actually use component when not watching 3d on my hr21 so i have 3d mode on all the time from 1 of the hdmi inputs where the 3d adapter is at. so my remote just switches the input from component to the hdmi input when i select watch 3dtv on my remote so all i have to do is turn on my glasses. so if you dont mine watching tv with component that setup works.


----------



## Cactus57

Thanks trauma. I hooked it up with component this morning.


My other question is what to do when I add another 3d source that needs to go through the adapter.


The only one I've heard of that has issues passing through the 3808 is the Dtv. Has anyone had any issues from other 3d source video and the 3808?


If everything else can go through the AVR, the easiest solution I can think of is to add another adapter between the AVR and TV. The Dtv would have its own adapter to bypass the AVR.


Otherwise, the Dtv would need to pass through a switch which seems to not work. I did find this switch which 'learns EDID' and should work with Dtv. http://www.hdtvsupply.com/4x2-hdmi-matrix-switch.html 


It would be cheaper to add another adapter unless I find another source that wont pass through the AVR.


----------



## trauma




Cactus57 said:


> Thanks trauma. I hooked it up with component this morning.
> 
> 
> My other question is what to do when I add another 3d source that needs to go through the adapter.
> 
> 
> well just buy a 3x1 switch from amazon for $10 and you can connect up to three 3d devices. to the adapter that's what I did and works fine. you just won't be able to leave the 3d mode on, you'll have to go back to turning it manually. the best thing to do is to buy that 4x2 switch that works with 3d and you'll be able to use two hdmi inputs on your tv one for 3d and one for regular. that's what I was gonna due but the switch is too expensive so I'll manually turn it on for now.


----------



## ptsaras

Ok I think I've settled on the adapter and Optoma glasses. Now for the next issue. What switchers have people had success with.


I've seen people mention a $10 3x1 HDMI switcher on Amazon that works. Would that be the Apogee 3x1 switcher. That looks nice since it has an IR switch and could be programed into my Harmony which would be a huge plus. Anyway is that the one?...or any other suggestions?


I just want to be able to run my Directv box and my PS3.


----------



## trauma




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ptsaras* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Ok I think I've settled on the adapter and Optoma glasses. Now for the next issue. What switchers have people had success with.
> 
> 
> I've seen people mention a $10 3x1 HDMI switcher on Amazon that works. Would that be the Apogee 3x1 switcher. That looks nice since it has an IR switch and could be programed into my Harmony which would be a huge plus. Anyway is that the one?...or any other suggestions?
> 
> 
> I just want to be able to run my Directv box and my PS3.



yup that one worked for me


----------



## andermed

Very helpful thread.







Downloaded the 9.03 firmware update files from page 61 and will update my WD-73833 tonight.


----------



## Daniel Murray

Dose any one have update software for WD-65835? My TV is at 10.00


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Daniel Murray* /forum/post/19334997
> 
> 
> Dose any one have update software for WD-65835? My TV is at 10.00



Your model does not need nor have an update. It works fine with 3D.I have the 73835.


----------



## andermed

I'm happy to report that the 9.03 firmware update to my 73833 worked, and my PS3=>3-DA1=>WD-73833 setup worked. But I'm still getting the blackouts every now and then, which I'm attributing to my older cables. I'll buy some decent cables and hopefully solve that problem.


----------



## eieiopig

Good Afternoon All!


Well, this has been a fun read...


Obviously, I'm interested in watching 3D at home or I wouldn't be posting in this thread. There's been so much discussed, I wanted to make sure I've got a good handle on what equipment I need and how to hook everything up. So here we go:


My goal:

To watch 3D movies (when they actually come out) with surround sound. I do not have cable at my home. I do not plan to pump my HTPC through this set-up. So this should be a simple exercise putting together a workable price-conscious system.


What I currently have in my living room:

Mitsubishi WD-60C9

Sony Playstation 3 120 GB (latest firmware)

an old surround sound system plugged into the AVR Audio Output of my Mitsubishi WD-60C9


What I'm planning to purchase:

Mitsubishi 3DC-1000 3D HDTV Starter Pack

ViewSonic PGD-150 Active Stereographic 3D Shutter Glasses (x2)


How I plan to hook everything up:

PS3 (through HDMI) -> 3DC-1000 (through HDMI) -> WD-60C9 -> surround sound (through WD-60C9 AVR Audio Output)

(also the IR Emitter -> 3DC-1000 -> WD-60C9)


Notes:

1.) Have to set the PS3 to automatic so that either 2D or 3D signal gets outputted correctly.

2.) When watching 2D on WD-60C9, have to set 3D Mode to Off. But when watching 3D have to set 3D Mode to On / Standard.

3.) Both the IR Emitter glasses (that come with the Mitsubishi 3DC-1000 3D HDTV Starter Pack and the DLP Link ViewSonic PGD-150 Active Stereographic 3D Shutter Glasses should work at the same time. Although, viewing through the DLP Link ViewSonic PGD-150 Active Stereographic 3D Shutter Glasses should have better picture quality.

4.) Since I have 4 glasses, I'll be able to accomodate 4 adults. (Still need to buy kids glasses for kids.)

5.) Surround sound should work, but obviously I won't get HD/lossless audio.


Will my set-up work? Is there anything I'm missing? What else can anyone think of that I might need? Any information would be appreciated!


----------



## Justin-Dawson

That setup won't give you surrond sound - The Mits adapter only passes 2 channel audio.


The better way to do things is to run an optical cable from your PS3 to your receiver. This will give you surround from your PS3. You can modify your audio output settings under the "Sound settings" menu on the PS3 from HDMI to optical out.


----------



## curtishd

Anyone find a receiver that you can use with this adapter? For example: PS3->receiver-> adapter->tv and directv->receiver-> adapter->tv ALL via hdmi with 3D from both directv and the PS3.


----------



## shaggy59

I have read many threads and I have tried everything suggested, but I still can not get my Sony S570 to display 3D over my 65-833. I have installed the FW upgrade on the Sony, but when I try to play the 3D disc that came with the Mitsubishi adapter I get a message saying that either the player or TV does not support 3D. I know that the TV displays 3D over Directv and it works great. I have installed the 9.03 FW upgrade on the TV also. If anyone has any ideas please reply this is getting pretty crazy. Shaggy


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eieiopig* /forum/post/19342205
> 
> 
> Good Afternoon All!
> 
> 
> Well, this has been a fun read...
> 
> 
> Obviously, I'm interested in watching 3D at home or I wouldn't be posting in this thread. There's been so much discussed, I wanted to make sure I've got a good handle on what equipment I need and how to hook everything up. So here we go:
> 
> 
> My goal:
> 
> To watch 3D movies (when they actually come out) with surround sound. I do not have cable at my home. I do not plan to pump my HTPC through this set-up. So this should be a simple exercise putting together a workable price-conscious system.
> 
> 
> What I currently have in my living room:
> 
> Mitsubishi WD-60C9
> 
> Sony Playstation 3 120 GB (latest firmware)
> 
> an old surround sound system plugged into the AVR Audio Output of my Mitsubishi WD-60C9
> 
> 
> What I'm planning to purchase:
> 
> Mitsubishi 3DC-1000 3D HDTV Starter Pack
> 
> ViewSonic PGD-150 Active Stereographic 3D Shutter Glasses (x2)
> 
> 
> 
> Will my set-up work? Is there anything I'm missing? What else can anyone think of that I might need? Any information would be appreciated!



You don't want the starter pack if you're going to use the Viewsonics--save $300 and buy the 3da adapter only for $99.


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Justin-Dawson* /forum/post/19342347
> 
> 
> That setup won't give you surrond sound - The Mits adapter only passes 2 channel audio.
> 
> 
> The better way to do things is to run an optical cable from your PS3 to your receiver. This will give you surround from your PS3. You can modify your audio output settings under the "Sound settings" menu on the PS3 from HDMI to optical out.



Although the optical would work, I can't understand why any HDMI compliant unit would not output surround; that would violate the standards.


----------



## Milmanias




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmalter0* /forum/post/19344146
> 
> 
> Although the optical would work, I can't understand why any HDMI compliant unit would not output surround; that would violate the standards.



If I'm reading his set up right, he's planning on getting HDMI to the tv (via the adapter) then get sound from the tv to the AVR via coaxial. I doubt the tv will send 5.1 that way; usually the tv out only sends 5.1 for OTA and QAM tuners.


----------



## Jotbill




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmalter0* /forum/post/19344139
> 
> 
> You don't want the starter pack if you're going to use the Viewsonics--save $300 and buy the 3da adapter only for $99.



Not so for him as he want both to work for 4 Adults.


----------



## Justin-Dawson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmalter0* /forum/post/19344146
> 
> 
> Although the optical would work, I can't understand why any HDMI compliant unit would not output surround; that would violate the standards.



It's because for Full 3d, an HDMI 1.3 AVR doesn't know where the sound information is in the packet.


An HDMI 1.3 AVR will work for games with a PS3 but not when watching 3d blu-ray.


----------



## Justin-Dawson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pmalter0* /forum/post/19344139
> 
> 
> You don't want the starter pack if you're going to use the Viewsonics--save $300 and buy the 3da adapter only for $99.



Weren't you stating that your were having nothing but issues with DLP-Link glasses on another thread?


I know everyone likes to talk about how the PQ is far superior with DLP-Link glasses but for some reason no one talks about the sync issues that many posters have experienced (I sent a pair back myself and opted for the ones in the Starter kit).


Better PQ is great... it'd just be nice if the glasses could stay sync'd long enough to see it.


----------



## trauma

I have the optoma dlp link glasses and have never lost sync as far as 20ft. my tv is a mitsu 73833 so maybe it's a tv issue


----------



## gtgray

This may have been discussed in another thread but the 3d adapter clips above white completely on my WD-82837. I am using the adapter after my Anchor Bay DVDO Duo and just before the TV. I found I can turn down the contrast on the Duo to -10 and increase the contrast on the TV to +10 and I will maintain my peak white and my WTW. Weird way to do it. Color is effected and possibly white point so I will have to recalibrate with the adapter inline. At least this way any 3d source should be able to see the adapter. I am running beta firmware on the Duo that is could be considered a release candidate it seems to pass 3d through fine.


Are other folks seeing this above white clipping, if so what are you doing about it?


----------



## Guindalf

There's a lot of info in this thread and thanks to all who contributed. However, I don't have the time to read through over 2000 posts to find my answers, so could someone tell me, in stupid person's terms, how to connect the following...


Mitsi WD65735

Mitsi 3D Kit

D* HR22

PS3

Onkyo TX-SR707.



The stupid person mentioned above is me!


I currently have the HR22 connected directly to the adapter and the adapter to the TV using RCA to the Onkyo for the audio and the DVR won't let me watch 3D. It tells me that it is unable to display a picture as the TV is not 3D capable!


This idiot will accept any help you can offer.


TIA


----------



## walford

Your model of Onyko is not supplying the EDID for the connected Mits TV to the adapter.

To confirm this connect the adapter directly to the TV as a test.


----------



## Guindalf




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19353258
> 
> 
> Your model of Onyko is not supplying the EDID for the connected Mits TV to the adapter.
> 
> To confirm this connect the adapter directly to the TV as a test.



My video IS connected directly. Only the audio is going through the Onkyo as stated above.


----------



## tariqosuave

I just played nba 2k11 with the kit... and the adapter on normal... It looked like it had more depth... I was pretty impressed.


----------



## ptsaras




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tariqosuave* /forum/post/19353368
> 
> 
> I just played nba 2k11 with the kit... and the adapter on normal... It looked like it had more depth... I was pretty impressed.



Is 2k11 in 3D? If so I might check it out


----------



## nickoakdl

Have a few questions here:


If I'm looking to hook up a PS3 and cable box to the 3D adapter and tv separately is this how it would work?










If so, is this all I would need?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...=2#description 


Thanks in advance (I didn't even know these switches existed until today, let alone I would need one).


----------



## walford

Nick,

If playing the new 3D Blu-Ray disks with your PS3 that output also has to go through the adapter so you only need a 2x1switch to switch the input to the adapter.


----------



## nickoakdl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19354990
> 
> 
> Nick,
> 
> If playing the new 3D Blu-Ray disks with your PS3 that output also has to go through the adapter so you only need a 2x1switch to switch the input to the adapter.



I should have clarified I want to be able to create a connection to the tv that bypasses the adapter because I feel like the adapter weakens the 2D image.


----------



## ajricaud




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nickoakdl* /forum/post/19355170
> 
> 
> I should have clarified I want to be able to create a connection to the tv that bypasses the adapter because I feel like the adapter weakens the 2D image.



I believe that a 4X2 matrix switcher will fulfill your needs. Up to 4 inputs can be switched independently to 2 outputs simultaneously. In your case 1 output would feed the TV directly and the 2nd. output would go thru the 3D adapter into a second input on your TV.


Here's an example from Wryker, another poster:


The output from the switch is to loop audio to the AVR. The PS3 goes direct into the 4 x 2 so in order to get lossless audio (for BDs etc) the other output goes to my AVR. Monoprice part number 6415.

Also something weird happened after 2 days. I originally had the HDTivo connected to the 4 x 2 but after a day or two I got an error message on my Tivo that the HDMI cable is not acceptable to use so I got no picture nor sound. The 4 x 2 doesn't seem to like having every input used. Not sure the reason, but that's why I used my other splitter (that I had originally taken out of the system) to connect the XBOX 360 & HDDVD player since I rarely use them.


Here's the product he's using:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/se...d=6415&x=0&y=0


----------



## tariqosuave




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ptsaras* /forum/post/19353443
> 
> 
> Is 2k11 in 3D? If so I might check it out



They are supposed to release a patch to make it the 3d... But I was wondering does having it on and in 3d mode make kinda make 2d look like 3d... someone else try it with a game.


----------



## Jotbill




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nickoakdl* /forum/post/19354497
> 
> 
> Have a few questions here:
> 
> 
> If I'm looking to hook up a PS3 and cable box to the 3D adapter and tv separately is this how it would work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If so, is this all I would need?
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...=2#description
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance (I didn't even know these switches existed until today, let alone I would need one).





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajricaud* /forum/post/19355562
> 
> 
> I believe that a 4X2 matrix switcher will fulfill your needs. Up to 4 inputs can be switched independently to 2 outputs simultaneously. In your case 1 output would feed the TV directly and the 2nd. output would go thru the 3D adapter into a second input on your TV.
> 
> 
> Here's an example from Wryker, another poster:
> 
> 
> The output from the switch is to loop audio to the AVR. The PS3 goes direct into the 4 x 2 so in order to get lossless audio (for BDs etc) the other output goes to my AVR. Monoprice part number 6415.
> 
> Also something weird happened after 2 days. I originally had the HDTivo connected to the 4 x 2 but after a day or two I got an error message on my Tivo that the HDMI cable is not acceptable to use so I got no picture nor sound. The 4 x 2 doesn't seem to like having every input used. Not sure the reason, but that's why I used my other splitter (that I had originally taken out of the system) to connect the XBOX 360 & HDDVD player since I rarely use them.
> 
> 
> Here's the product he's using:
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/se...d=6415&x=0&y=0



Here's a 3x1 & a 5x1 at Great prices to consider, I got mine with a deal for $14.99 & 3 6 ft HDMI's.


Also the reviews are tops.

http://www.meritline.com/showproduct...-of-hdmi-cable 

http://www.meritline.com/switch-with...--p-55973.aspx


----------



## nickoakdl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jotbill* /forum/post/19356655
> 
> 
> Here's a 3x1 & a 5x1 at Great prices to consider, I got mine with a deal for $14.99 & 3 6 ft HDMI's.



Wouldn't I need at least a 2x2? 2 inputs for the PS3 and cable receiver and 2 outputs for the 3D adapter and TV?


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nickoakdl* /forum/post/19357741
> 
> 
> Wouldn't I need at least a 2x2? 2 inputs for the PS3 and cable receiver and 2 outputs for the 3D adapter and TV?



If you want to watch 3D TV and 3D on the PS3 you need at least a 2 x 2. I bought the 4 x 2 from Monoprice which works great. Also, I just bought the Samsung 3D player w/7.1 component audio output so now I have my 'fat' PS3, HDTiVo, and Sammy 3D BD player all available so 3D movies with HD audio, PS3 3D with HD audio, and 3D via ESPN3D is now all working like a champ w/my 1.3 Reciever and 3D adapter. Watched some of "Cloudy with...Meatballs" last night.

edit: the sammy 6900 for those interested dropped in price yesterday at amazon. the 7900 also dropped and that model has dual HDMI outputs - one dedicated to audio. I bought my 6900 from "Amazon Warehouse" in "Used-Like New" condition for $150.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *shaggy59* /forum/post/19343452
> 
> 
> I have read many threads and I have tried everything suggested, but I still can not get my Sony S570 to display 3D over my 65-833. I have installed the FW upgrade on the Sony, but when I try to play the 3D disc that came with the Mitsubishi adapter I get a message saying that either the player or TV does not support 3D. I know that the TV displays 3D over Directv and it works great. I have installed the 9.03 FW upgrade on the TV also. If anyone has any ideas please reply this is getting pretty crazy. Shaggy



did you turn on 'game mode'? I think for your model TV that's how you turn on 3D.


----------



## trauma




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> If you want to watch 3D TV and 3D on the PS3 you need at least a 2 x 2. I bought the 4 x 2 from Monoprice which works great. Also, I just bought the Samsung 3D player w/7.1 component audio output so now I have my 'fat' PS3, HDTiVo, and Sammy 3D BD player all available so 3D movies with HD audio, PS3 3D with HD audio, and 3D via ESPN3D is now all working like a champ w/my 1.3 Reciever and 3D adapter. Watched some of "Cloudy with...Meatballs" last night.
> 
> edit: the sammy 6900 for those interested dropped in price yesterday at amazon. the 7900 also dropped and that model has dual HDMI outputs - one dedicated to audio. I bought my 6900 from "Amazon Warehouse" in "Used-Like New" condition for $150.



so the 4x2 switch from monoprice works with 3d? what kind of hd reciever do you have is it directv? also can you give the model number of the hdmi switch you are using. thx


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *trauma* /forum/post/19359332
> 
> 
> so the 4x2 switch from monoprice works with 3d? what kind of hd reciever do you have is it directv? also can you give the model number of the hdmi switch you are using. thx



See post 2161 where someone re-posted one of my earlier ones.

I do not have directv - I have comcast through my HDTivo.


----------



## div3r5ity




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nickoakdl* /forum/post/19354497
> 
> 
> Have a few questions here:
> 
> 
> If I'm looking to hook up a PS3 and cable box to the 3D adapter and tv separately is this how it would work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If so, is this all I would need?
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...=2#description
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance (I didn't even know these switches existed until today, let alone I would need one).



this is how my setup is, fyi works great no problems


ps3>avr>splitter>tv(input 1)

________splitter>hdmi switch>3dc>tv(input 3)



cablebox>

splitter>avr>tv(input 1)

splitter>hmdi switch>3dc>tv(input 3)


i had to buy 2(1x2) hdmi splitters(sewelldirect.com) and an hmdi switch(radioshack auvio)


i get audio through my onkyo tx608 whether im watching 3d on ps3 or cablebox.


----------



## Wryker

Attached is my set-up (I left the Wii, XBOX 360, HDDVD A2 Player, CD-R Player, PS2, and Popcorn Hour off the chart since 3D is what people are here for).


If you want to watch 3D from cable and a fat PS3 this will work. I just got the Sammy 6900 (want me some HD audio from 3D) and I've included that as well but please feel free to ignore it if not interested.


Legend is "H" = HDMI

"O" = Optical

If you have any questions feel free to ask.

 

tv.pdf 25.666015625k . file


----------



## Jotbill




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19364966
> 
> 
> Attached is my set-up (I left the Wii, XBOX 360, HDDVD A2 Player, CD-R Player, PS2, and Popcorn Hour off the chart since 3D is what people are here for).
> 
> 
> If you want to watch 3D from cable and a fat PS3 this will work. I just got the Sammy 6900 (want me some HD audio from 3D) and I've included that as well but please feel free to ignore it if not interested.
> 
> 
> Legend is "H" = HDMI
> 
> "O" = Optical
> 
> If you have any questions feel free to ask.



Very interesting............I like it!


----------



## trauma




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Attached is my set-up (I left the Wii, XBOX 360, HDDVD A2 Player, CD-R Player, PS2, and Popcorn Hour off the chart since 3D is what people are here for).
> 
> 
> If you want to watch 3D from cable and a fat PS3 this will work. I just got the Sammy 6900 (want me some HD audio from 3D) and I've included that as well but please feel free to ignore it if not interested.
> 
> 
> Legend is "H" = HDMI
> 
> "O" = Optical
> 
> If you have any questions feel free to ask.



why do you need the optical from the ps3 and sammy 7.1 component going to your AVR when one of your HDMI outs from the splitter is going to the AVR? isn't the purpose of the HDMI going to your AVR is to get HD sound from the sources you have connected to the splitter? just wondering what is the purpose of for the hdmi going to the AVR is for. thx


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *trauma* /forum/post/19369788
> 
> 
> why do you need the optical from the ps3 and sammy 7.1 component going to your AVR when one of your HDMI outs from the splitter is going to the AVR? isn't the purpose of the HDMI going to your AVR is to get HD sound from the sources you have connected to the splitter? just wondering what is the purpose of for the hdmi going to the AVR is for. thx



I just got the Sammy BD player so prior to that in order to get audio for 3D BD I can only get it via optical since I have the "fat" PS3. I wanted to get HD audio for any 3D game or 2D BD so I needed the output from the splitter/switch to go to the receiver in order to get it.

Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks!


----------



## andermed

Ok, just purchased the 4x2 matrix switch and good 24awg HDMI cables (monoprice.com) to re-configure my setup... here is how I think it'll work. Any suggestions/recommendations?


----------



## ajricaud

Looks good. Did you install the latest firmware on the TV? Also, what matrix switcher are you using?


----------



## andermed




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajricaud* /forum/post/19372197
> 
> 
> Looks good. Did you install the latest firmware on the TV? Also, what matrix switcher are you using?



Yep, before the 9.03 firmware I would have to unplug and replug the HDMI for the TV to recognize the signal and only some 3D content got displayed... after the 9.03 firmware it's bulletproof. 3D Blu-Ray and Gaming is well worth the work.










The 4x2 Matrix Switch I purchased is this one .


The 24awg cables I purchased are these .



I should receive the swtich and cables early next week, I hope everything works. I'll post the results...


Since the Swtich has individually addressable buttons I plan on trying to program my Logitech Harmony remote so that I can easily switch between functions... we'll see how that goes.


----------



## bubba1972

Will that splitter pass 3D cable box content though since it is 1.3a HDMI compliant?


----------



## andermed




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bubba1972* /forum/post/19373116
> 
> 
> Will that splitter pass 3D cable box content though since it is 1.3a HDMI compliant?



I'm not sure, but I'll post the outcome when I set it up and find out. I live in Rhode Island and have Cox as a cable provider... they are behind on 3D content so I'm not sure I'll have any soon...


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andermed* /forum/post/19370847
> 
> 
> Ok, just purchased the 4x2 matrix switch and good 24awg HDMI cables (monoprice.com) to re-configure my setup... here is how I think it'll work. Any suggestions/recommendations?



You can by-pass having the AVR go to the TV - you can send the HDMI out from your receiver to the 4 x 2 switch (as I have mine). This way your TV never has to change the input and if you've had the TV calibrated you're "set".


Comcast does pass 3D through the receiver w/o issue. I have my comcast/tivo running into my AVR as illustrated in my crappy handdrawing posted earlier.


And yes, I have the Harmony ONE and you can program it send select the input/output of the 4x2 switch.


Holy crow! I just realized I neglected to show the HDMI out from my AVR to the 4 x 2 switch on my drawing!!


----------



## Wryker

Ok - I realized I did not post my diagram correctly so here it is again. The straight lines represent HDMI while the lone curved one is the Optical. For the sake of keeping it 'clean' I did not put my PS2, XBOX 360, CD Recorder, Wii, HDDVD A2, PCH A110, 5 x 1 switch, or Samsung C6900 I also have connected since all those are connected to the AVR so no need to diagram it since the HDMI out from the AVR is what's important. Again, if you have questions feel free to ask - my set is up and working and I broke down and bought the horrible Cloudy 3D BD and even though the movie isn't great - the 3D surprisingly is!

 

Drawing3.pdf 4.2685546875k . file


----------



## tlogan6797




> Quote:
> You can by-pass having the AVR go to the TV - you can send the HDMI out from your receiver to the 4 x 2 switch (as I have mine). This way your TV never has to change the input and if you've had the TV calibrated you're "set".



I thought the idea was to be able to bypass the black-crushing 3DA-1?


Seems to me if you take the HDMI out from the receiver and run it to the HDMI switch at input 3, the only path to the TV is THROUGH the 3DA-1.


[EDIT] My comment was based on your comment to diagram above then your new one crossed with my post. New diagram I have the same question, though.[/end edit]


----------



## Jotbill




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19373754
> 
> 
> Ok - I realized I did not post my diagram correctly so here it is again. The straight lines represent HDMI while the lone curved one is the Optical. For the sake of keeping it 'clean' I did not put my PS2, XBOX 360, CD Recorder, Wii, HDDVD A2, PCH A110, 5 x 1 switch, or Samsung C6900 I also have connected since all those are connected to the AVR so no need to diagram it since the HDMI out from the AVR is what's important. Again, if you have questions feel free to ask - my set is up and working and I broke down and bought the horrible Cloudy 3D BD and even though the movie isn't great - the 3D surprisingly is!



No biggie, but three of your arrows are pointing in the wrong direction?


Edit: make that 4?


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tlogan6797* /forum/post/19373786
> 
> 
> I thought the idea was to be able to bypass the black-crushing 3DA-1?
> 
> 
> Seems to me if you take the HDMI out from the receiver and run it to the HDMI switch at input 3, the only path to the TV is THROUGH the 3DA-1.
> 
> 
> [EDIT] My comment was based on your comment to diagram above then your new one crossed with my post. New diagram I have the same question, though.[/end edit]



I guess I'm 'lucky' since I don't see any black crush on my set. Everything looks the same as it was before I piped in the 3D adapter.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jotbill* /forum/post/19374075
> 
> 
> No biggie, but three of your arrows are pointing in the wrong direction.



I did it quickly in visio so yes, i did not take the time with the 'arrows' but i thought it'd be 'prettier' than my handdrawing I threw together here at work.


----------



## trauma

does any one know if there is a 4x2 switch/splitter that works with directv and the 3dA-1 adapter


----------



## chrisv213

I just purchased the 3DC-1000 Starter Kit and a Denon AVR-391 3D Receiver to go with my Sony BDP-S570 Blu Ray player, Direct TV 3D DVR, and WD-73737 DLP. I searched through the thread to find someone with the same set up so I would not have to ask but did not see anyone.


My question: Is this hook up going to be as simple as the owner's manuals and the Mitsu website say it will? I have had a pretty committed HT for a while, so I know nothing is ever as simple as "they" say it is, but HDMI from both sources to the Denon, then HDMI to the 3DC-1000 and, finally HDMI to the TV?? That's it?? My mother could handle that!


Does anyone have this set up or one similar with a 3D capable AVR?


I would appreciate any words of wisdom, I will be setting it up this evening, hopefully.


P.S. I know we are not supposed to discuss what we paid for products, but I have been keeping current with the various retailers who carry this kit, and the price was consistantly around $400. I am not sure how long they have been nor how long they will be, but I bought mine at Fry's today for $240.







I am guessing that a lot of people who are holding out on taking the plunge, might just make the leap at that price point.


Thanks


----------



## Spektre99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andermed* /forum/post/19370847
> 
> 
> Ok, just purchased the 4x2 matrix switch and good 24awg HDMI cables (monoprice.com) to re-configure my setup... here is how I think it'll work. Any suggestions/recommendations?



Just curious, why do you need this switcher. Why do you want, at times, to pass the HDMI NOT thru the 3DA-1?


Spektre


----------



## andermed




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spektre99* /forum/post/19376753
> 
> 
> Just curious, why do you need this switcher. Why do you want, at times, to pass the HDMI NOT thru the 3DA-1?
> 
> 
> Spektre



The reason I don't use only one input on my TV, keeping the 3D function ON in that input, is because the 3D function on my TV (Mitsubishi WD-73833) makes the image significantly lighter (grayish almost)... which looks fine if you're watching 3D content through the glasses, but affects non-3D TV watching or game playing... I tried all the picture adjustments on the TV to try to avoid this, but unfortunately couldn't bring back the black on the input with 3D ON...


----------



## walford

Why do you have to keep the 3D enabled on the TV when receivng 2D content which is just passed though the adapter when received?

http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/pdf/3DA...heet060810.pdf


----------



## andermed




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19377880
> 
> 
> Why do you have to keep the 3D enabled on the TV when receivng 2D content which is just passed though the adapter when received?
> 
> http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/pdf/3DA...heet060810.pdf



You're right, you don't have to keep it enabled. But I'm not sure if I can set the Logitech Harmony remote to turn the 3D function ON/OFF as part of the instructions when switching between 3D and 2D functions... I haven't tried, but since in my TV the 3D enabling is burried in the menu for the specific HDMI input I'm not sure... anyone done this on a WD-73833?

(I'll try it next week when I'm back home)...


----------



## walford

Contact the Harmony support group, if it can be done they will tell you how.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andermed* /forum/post/19377901
> 
> 
> You're right, you don't have to keep it enabled. But I'm not sure if I can set the Logitech Harmony remote to turn the 3D function ON/OFF as part of the instructions when switching between 3D and 2D functions... I haven't tried, but since in my TV the 3D enabling is burried in the menu for the specific HDMI input I'm not sure... anyone done this on a WD-73833?
> 
> (I'll try it next week when I'm back home)...



I have the Harmony ONE. Since my system runs through the 3D adapter I must have it powered on - that does not mean it's in 3D mode. It only goes into 3D mode if I push 3D through it. And even then I still have to turn 3D mode 'on' on the TV. Once I do that I either get sweet 3D goodness or I click "3D Mode" on the Harmony (easily programmable) to cycle through the modes.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andermed* /forum/post/19377373
> 
> 
> The reason I don't use only one input on my TV, keeping the 3D function ON in that input, is because the 3D function on my TV (Mitsubishi WD-73833) makes the image significantly lighter (grayish almost)... which looks fine if you're watching 3D content through the glasses, but affects non-3D TV watching or game playing... I tried all the picture adjustments on the TV to try to avoid this, but unfortunately couldn't bring back the black on the input with 3D ON...



I wonder if it's a function of your model? I thought your model you have to turn 'on' game mode? If that's the case - turn off game mode when you're not watching 3D. My model 73835 has a specific 'on/off' for 3D mode and yes, the image quality changes (blacks not as black and image 'is' darker due to wearing the glasses) so when I watch 3D I change the image from "natural" to "bright" and that compensates for the 'darkening' due to the glasses. If I watch regular 2D while 3D is turned on ('on' being the 3D mode on the TV) - the picture quality looks 'washed' out - thus 3D mode only is turned on when watching 3D content.


----------



## Paul.R.S

 "Mitsubishi Bows 3D Ad Campaign in Movie Theaters" 



> Quote:
> As part of the campaign, Mitsubishi is distributing more than half a million coupons for a free Mitsubishi 3D Starter Pack ($399 value) with the purchase of any Mitsubishi 3D DLP Home Cinema TV or 3D LaserVue TV. The coupons, which are being distributed in more than 500 theaters, can be redeemed online directly from Mitsubishi.


----------



## Jotbill




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andermed* /forum/post/19377901
> 
> 
> You're right, you don't have to keep it enabled. But I'm not sure if I can set the Logitech Harmony remote to turn the 3D function ON/OFF as part of the instructions when switching between 3D and 2D functions... I haven't tried, but since in my TV the 3D enabling is burried in the menu for the specific HDMI input I'm not sure... anyone done this on a WD-73833?
> 
> (I'll try it next week when I'm back home)...





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19377961
> 
> 
> Contact the Harmony support group, if it can be done they will tell you how.


 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1170063 



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19377977
> 
> 
> I have the Harmony ONE. Since my system runs through the 3D adapter I must have it powered on - that does not mean it's in 3D mode. It only goes into 3D mode if I push 3D through it. And even then I still have to turn 3D mode 'on' on the TV. Once I do that I either get sweet 3D goodness or I click "3D Mode" on the Harmony (easily programmable) to cycle through the modes.








> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Paul.R.S* /forum/post/19378956
> 
> "Mitsubishi Bows 3D Ad Campaign in Movie Theaters"



Wow, 1/2 Million Free 3D Kits...........


----------



## Paul.R.S

It's looking to me like the "coupons" are superfluous/just the promotional tool: I think any purchaser can go to Mitsubishi3DTV.net, fill out their qualifying information and get the goods. I don't see even in the press release for this promo that Mitsu has identified who their theatrical exhibition partners are/which theaters you can go to to get the "coupons" (other than stating that it's the circuits that run ScreenVision ads which, in my neck of the Southern Cali woods, means AMC Entertainment--but I just saw _Stone_ in an AMC last night and didn't spot any MDEA standee or other advertising).


----------



## Stew4msu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Paul.R.S* /forum/post/19380448
> 
> 
> It's looking to me like the "coupons" are superfluous/just the promotional tool: I think any purchaser can go to Mitsubishi3DTV.net, fill out their qualifying information and get the goods.



Correct, the coupon is not necessary is just a marketing piece. Much like Costco coupons that come in the mail - they really just advertise the discounts and the actual coupon is rarely needed.


----------



## Spektre99




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Zapix* /forum/post/19171392
> 
> WD-xx833 9.03 firmware - download from msn skydrive
> 
> 
> If it doesn't work, or stops working, let me know. It should be OK though as I just tested the link.



Does the 73C9 experience the blue screen issues the xx833 models do?


----------



## sjchmura

Wow, new problem after upgrading to ATI 10.10

System: i7/5870 HDMI -> Onkyo 608 1.4a->Mits 2008 73736

LG WH10 driver, PowerDVD9 3D version


Was working fine if I "forced" 3D television"


Since upgrading to 10.10 ATI drivers, 3D does not work. Simply put IF the app does not crash, then I see the checkerboard but NO 3D will "sync".


PS3 3D works fine (PS3-> Onkyo 608 1.4a->Mits 2008 73736)


I tried the trial version of 10.10 and - shockingly - it states "disk wrong format"


All works fine if I disable 3D.


I wonder if the new ATI drivers that "officially have 3D hooks" killed 3D on all but the new 68xx series. So does that mean we are stuck at 10.9a?????


----------



## pwbaker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chrisv213* /forum/post/19376541
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. I know we are not supposed to discuss what we paid for products, but I have been keeping current with the various retailers who carry this kit, and the price was consistantly around $400. I am not sure how long they have been nor how long they will be, but I bought mine at Fry's today for $240.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am guessing that a lot of people who are holding out on taking the plunge, might just make the leap at that price point.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Thanks for the tip. Went to Fry's at lunch and picked one up.


----------



## tstokes

I have a PS3 and HD DVR DIRECT TV going into a Denon AVR-391 which inputs into 3DC-1000 box attached to HDMI 1 on MITSU WD-82838 TV. All cables are 3' 3d hdmi 1.4 monster fastest speed cables.


It seems that the 3DC-1000 box or TV is getting confused and not recognizing 3D inputs at times. Shutting everything off and powering back up fixes it temporarily without fail, what is the problem?


I have not done any firmware updates, can the 9.03 Firmware Update be performed using the TV's internet connection?



Thanks,


Tom


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chrisv213* /forum/post/19376541
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> P.S. I know we are not supposed to discuss what we paid for products, but I have been keeping current with the various retailers who carry this kit, and the price was consistantly around $400. I am not sure how long they have been nor how long they will be, but I bought mine at Fry's today for $240.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am guessing that a lot of people who are holding out on taking the plunge, might just make the leap at that price point.
> 
> 
> Thanks



That's a great price and less than I paid ($279.00).


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tstokes* /forum/post/19386880
> 
> 
> I have a PS3 and HD DVR DIRECT TV going into a Denon AVR-391 which inputs into 3DC-1000 box attached to HDMI 1 on MITSU WD-82838 TV. All cables are 3' 3d hdmi 1.4 monster fastest speed cables.
> 
> 
> It seems that the 3DC-1000 box or TV is getting confused and not recognizing 3D inputs at times. Shutting everything off and powering back up fixes it temporarily without fail, what is the problem?
> 
> 
> I have not done any firmware updates, can the 9.03 Firmware Update be performed using the TV's internet connection?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Tom




The 9.03 firmware upgrade only applys to the 2007 WD XX833 models. Do you get any messages when it fails to work properly??


----------



## bori




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chrisv213* /forum/post/19376541
> 
> 
> I just purchased the 3DC-1000 Starter Kit and a Denon AVR-391 3D Receiver to go with my Sony BDP-S570 Blu Ray player, Direct TV 3D DVR, and WD-73737 DLP. I searched through the thread to find someone with the same set up so I would not have to ask but did not see anyone.
> 
> 
> My question: Is this hook up going to be as simple as the owner's manuals and the Mitsu website say it will? I have had a pretty committed HT for a while, so I know nothing is ever as simple as "they" say it is, but HDMI from both sources to the Denon, then HDMI to the 3DC-1000 and, finally HDMI to the TV?? That's it?? My mother could handle that!
> 
> 
> Does anyone have this set up or one similar with a 3D capable AVR?
> 
> 
> I would appreciate any words of wisdom, I will be setting it up this evening, hopefully.
> 
> 
> P.S. I know we are not supposed to discuss what we paid for products, but I have been keeping current with the various retailers who carry this kit, and the price was consistantly around $400. I am not sure how long they have been nor how long they will be, but I bought mine at Fry's today for $240.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am guessing that a lot of people who are holding out on taking the plunge, might just make the leap at that price point.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Is this located in their local ad and is it possible to pricematch bestbuy?


----------



## tstokes

2 different Error messages, on 3d input from after working flawlessly for a week:


1 - Your TV does not support 720p format


2 - Your TV does not support 3D



Power off/on of TV and or 3DC-1000 has cleared up these errors each time.



Thanks,


Tom


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tstokes* /forum/post/19388538
> 
> 
> 2 different Error messages, on 3d input from after working flawlessly for a week:
> 
> 
> 1 - Your TV does not support 720p format
> 
> 
> 2 - Your TV does not support 3D
> 
> 
> 
> Power off/on of TV and or 3DC-1000 has cleared up these errors each time.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Tom



On error number 1: Make sure you are tuned to a HD channel on your DTV receiver before tuning to a 3D channel. For some reason DTV gives a format error message if you are tuning from SD channel to a 3D channel...


Can't help with error number 2.......


----------



## bjeffress

I have the TX SR-608 by Onkyo with Mitsubishi WD-82838. The 3D content works fine. I do have an issue after I turn all components off for a period of time (i.e. 10 mins or so - outside of the quick start-up period). The issue seems to related to the TV handshake to the Onkyo receiver. If I have turn off just the TV then the receiver plays source sound and HDMI icon shows on the receiver. When I turn on the TV some swiching begins can fails to succeed. If I plug the receiver to another TV via HDMI the handshake succeeds. Strange this is that if I leave the WD-82838 contected and do a hard reset (Menu 1-2-3 option) the TV finds the receiver just fine. So, I have to do a hard reset on the TV everytime I want to watch it. Tech support was no help from Mitsubishi or Onkyo. I am trying to get a dealer's "Expert" out now.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tstokes* /forum/post/19388538
> 
> 
> 2 different Error messages, on 3d input from after working flawlessly for a week:
> 
> 
> 1 - Your TV does not support 720p format
> 
> 
> 2 - Your TV does not support 3D
> 
> 
> 
> Power off/on of TV and or 3DC-1000 has cleared up these errors each time.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Tom



What is the input that's causing that error? I got an error after a few days w/my HDTivo giving me an error - i swapped a 'newer' HDMI cable and all was corrected.


----------



## bubba1972

I got my 'How to Train Your Dragon' 3D BD this weekend. I really enjoyed it. It ended up coming with the two extra Samsung glasses I ordered. It had a lot of dark scenes, so I ended up setting my 73736 TV to Brilliant mode and cranking up the brightness to compensate. It looked even better with Deepfield Imager turned on, but I have to manually turn it back on every time I switch to the PS3 input.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bubba1972* /forum/post/19392861
> 
> 
> I got my 'How to Train Your Dragon' 3D BD this weekend. I really enjoyed it. It ended up coming with the two extra Samsung glasses I ordered. It had a lot of dark scenes, so I ended up setting my 73736 TV to Brilliant mode and cranking up the brightness to compensate. It looked even better with Deepfield Imager turned on, but I have to manually turn it back on every time I switch to the PS3 input.



That's what I do when watching 3D - flip it on bright or brilliant (not much difference between the two w/the 3D specs on). Haven't tried the Deepfield and cranking up the brightness didn't do much (IMO).


----------



## eieiopig




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Justin-Dawson* /forum/post/19342347
> 
> 
> That setup won't give you surrond sound - The Mits adapter only passes 2 channel audio.
> 
> 
> The better way to do things is to run an optical cable from your PS3 to your receiver. This will give you surround from your PS3. You can modify your audio output settings under the "Sound settings" menu on the PS3 from HDMI to optical out.



Justin-Dawson,


Thanks! Read back in someone's post that the Mitsubishi Adapter only passed 2 channel audio, but forgot that fact. I'll go with your idea of running an optical cable from the PS3 to my surround sound receiver instead of having it on the tail-end of my set-up.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nickoakdl* /forum/post/19355170
> 
> 
> I should have clarified I want to be able to create a connection to the tv that bypasses the adapter because I feel like the adapter weakens the 2D image.



nickoakdl,


I, too have seen people comment on these forums that the 2D image weakens because of the Mitsubishi Adapter even when the TV is set on 2D mode. PS3 directly to the TV versus PS3 to Mitsubishi Adapter to TV, I was wondering if anyone else noticed a degradation of their 2D image quality when placing the Mitsubishi Adapter into the mix?



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *chrisv213* /forum/post/19376541
> 
> 
> P.S. I know we are not supposed to discuss what we paid for products, but I have been keeping current with the various retailers who carry this kit, and the price was consistantly around $400. I am not sure how long they have been nor how long they will be, but I bought mine at Fry's today for $240.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am guessing that a lot of people who are holding out on taking the plunge, might just make the leap at that price point.



chrisv213,


Thanks! When I visited the Fry's website, the Mitsubishi 3DC-1000 3D HDTV Starter Pack lists at $399.00, but walking into the Downers Grove, IL Fry's Electronics store it was $240.00 not including tax. Great find!


The picture degradation is my main concern now. If I'm watching a regular non-3D Blu-Ray DVD off my PS3, passing through the Mitsubishi Adapter, with my WD-60C9 set to 2D, is there that much of a picture quality difference?


I'm gonna play with everything when I get home, but I was wondering what other peeps have noticed?


----------



## nickoakdl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *eieiopig* /forum/post/19393067
> 
> 
> nickoakdl,
> 
> 
> I, too have seen people comment on these forums that the 2D image weakens because of the Mitsubishi Adapter even when the TV is set on 2D mode. PS3 directly to the TV versus PS3 to Mitsubishi Adapter to TV, I was wondering if anyone else noticed a degradation of their 2D image quality when placing the Mitsubishi Adapter into the mix?



The degradation is not substantial by any means, but I feel like it dull-ens the image a bit. I didn't even notice it until I connected my PS3 directly to the TV (bypassing the adapter) and noticed that the black start up screen was quite darker.


----------



## AndyKoopa

So, I just purchased the 3DC-1000 for my 73833, I want 2 more pairs of glasses, will the Samsung glasses work? I am looking to buy the Monsters vs Aliens Samsung blu ray package. Thanks,


-Andy


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AndyKoopa* /forum/post/19393633
> 
> 
> So, I just purchased the 3DC-1000 for my 73833, I want 2 more pairs of glasses, will the Samsung glasses work? I am looking to buy the Monsters vs Aliens Samsung blu ray package. Thanks,
> 
> 
> -Andy



Yes they do, I've purchased two of them and they work fine.


----------



## bubba1972




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AndyKoopa* /forum/post/19393633
> 
> 
> So, I just purchased the 3DC-1000 for my 73833, I want 2 more pairs of glasses, will the Samsung glasses work? I am looking to buy the Monsters vs Aliens Samsung blu ray package. Thanks,
> 
> 
> -Andy



I thought I was buying the Monsters vs Aliens kit with 2 pair of glasses from East Coast TVs ($160) but got a package with a voucher for How to Train Your Dragon 3D. Worked out great for me. I noticed this kit being advertised at local stores, so inventory may be on the decline for the Monsters version.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19377977
> 
> 
> I click "3D Mode" on the Harmony (easily programmable) to cycle through the modes.



I believe this is referring to toggling the 3D mode on the adapter? Has anyone figured out how to use the Harmony to alter 3D mode on the TV via a single button click?


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19396438
> 
> 
> I believe this is referring to toggling the 3D mode on the adapter? Has anyone figured out how to use the Harmony to alter 3D mode on the TV via a single button click?



My AVR has two HDMI outputs so I connect one of them directly to the TV HDMI 1 input and the other to the 3DC 1000 then to the TV HDMI 2 input. Then I program two separate activities on the Harmony for each 3D capable devices. For example for Bluray I call one activity Bluray and the second one Bluray 3D. The activities are identical except Bluray 3D switches to TV HDMI 2 which has 3D function always turned on...


If you don't have multiple HDMI outputs you could maybe use a HDMI splitter??


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19396438
> 
> 
> I believe this is referring to toggling the 3D mode on the adapter? Has anyone figured out how to use the Harmony to alter 3D mode on the TV via a single button click?



I'm confused - you mention toggling the 3D mode on the adapter and then how to alter 3D mode on the TV - those are two separate actions.

To watch 3D on the TV you must put it into 3D mode - sure it takes a minute but I click "devices - tv - menu" then scroll to turn on 3D mode.

To toggle between modes on the adapter I have a dedicated button on the Harmony called "3D Mode" that I hit to cycle through the 3D modes.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/19396530
> 
> 
> My AVR has two HDMI outputs so I connect one of them directly to the TV HDMI 1 input and the other to the 3DC 1000 then to the TV HDMI 2 input. Then I program two separate activities on the Harmony for each 3D capable devices. For example for Bluray I call one activity Bluray and the second one Bluray 3D. The activities are identical except Bluray 3D switches to TV HDMI 2 which has 3D function always turned on...
> 
> 
> If you don't have multiple HDMI outputs you could maybe use a HDMI splitter??



Thanks. I can't use the adapter with my AVR, so straight fromt the adapter to the TV. While I do have a matrix switch that would allow me to use the different inputs as the trick to switching 3D mode on the TV, I'm not currently using it because it locks up too often, so hoping for a Harmony one click solution.


----------



## pwbaker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/19396530
> 
> 
> My AVR has two HDMI outputs so I connect one of them directly to the TV HDMI 1 input and the other to the 3DC 1000 then to the TV HDMI 2 input. Then I program two separate activities on the Harmony for each 3D capable devices. For example for Bluray I call one activity Bluray and the second one Bluray 3D. The activities are identical except Bluray 3D switches to TV HDMI 2 which has 3D function always turned on...
> 
> 
> If you don't have multiple HDMI outputs you could maybe use a HDMI splitter??



How do you get it to switch from one output to the other on the AVR within the event (BR I or BR 3D)? Is your AVR the Denon 331, or something else?


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19396593
> 
> 
> I'm confused




Sorry to confuse you. I'm just confirming that your switching of 3D mode via Harmony is for the adapter. I'm interested in programming the Harmony to switch the 3D on the TV and have yet to see a post that solves that issue.


Yes, going through the TV menu for 3D mode is not overly burdensome, but if I can program a Harmony button or macro that includes swtiching the TV's 3D mode for me, that would be nice.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19396628
> 
> 
> Thanks. I can't use the adapter with my AVR, so straight fromt the adapter to the TV. While I do have a matrix switch that would allow me to use the different inputs as the trick to switching 3D mode on the TV, I'm not currently using it because it locks up too often, so hoping for a Harmony one click solution.



I have the same set-up with the adapter directly to the TV but I do use a 4 x 2 switch/splitter (an earlier post shows my set-up).


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19396650
> 
> 
> Sorry to confuse you. I'm just confirming that your switching of 3D mode via Harmony is for the adapter. I'm interested in programming the Harmony to switch the 3D on the TV and have yet to see a post that solves that issue.
> 
> 
> Yes, going through the TV menu for 3D mode is not overly burdensome, but if I can program a Harmony button or macro that includes swtiching the TV's 3D mode for me, that would be nice.



AHH - got it. Yes, you could program another 'activity' and add the additional steps in the set-up to have the TV menu brought up, down, down, over, over, etc etc. Have you tried that?


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19396660
> 
> 
> AHH - got it. Yes, you could program another 'activity' and add the additional steps in the set-up to have the TV menu brought up, down, down, over, over, etc etc. Have you tried that?



haven't tried it. probably would work assuming hitting the menu button always takes you to the same starting place in the menu (it probably does, I'm not certain though).


Hoping for more of a behind the scenes approach, where there is an instant 3D toggle without menu being involved.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19396687
> 
> 
> haven't tried it. probably would work assuming hitting the menu button always takes you to the same starting place in the menu (it probably does, I'm not certain though).
> 
> 
> Hoping for more of a behind the scenes approach, where there is an instant 3D toggle without menu being involved.



For the 73835 it always is in the same beginning screen/window/location and the same for my other 3 HDTV's so it's a safe bet it's the same on yours. Take a while to program and then 'test' - but once you got it set-up you just 'press' and watch it change...


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pwbaker* /forum/post/19396636
> 
> 
> How do you get it to switch from one output to the other on the AVR within the event (BR I or BR 3D)? Is your AVR the Denon 331, or something else?



I'm using the Yamaha RXA3000 and have both HDMI Outputs active all the time


----------



## pwbaker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Cleverland* /forum/post/19396780
> 
> 
> I'm using the Yamaha RXA3000 and have both HDMI Outputs active all the time



Got it, thanks....


----------



## curtishd

Anyone looking to sell their starter kit pm me.


----------



## jwhyrock

Thx for this! Very helpful


----------



## haywardw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *curtishd* /forum/post/19397884
> 
> 
> Anyone looking to sell their starter kit pm me.



Check cregslist I have my emitter and glasses for sale.


----------



## Jotbill




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *haywardw* /forum/post/19406512
> 
> 
> Check cregslist I have my emitter and glasses for sale.



& just what Craiglist Area would that be?


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *haywardw* /forum/post/19406512
> 
> 
> Check cregslist I have my emitter and glasses for sale.



How come you're selling?


----------



## haywardw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19408743
> 
> 
> How come you're selling?



I am going to be using DLP link glasses. Went with the viewsonics


----------



## haywardw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jotbill* /forum/post/19407778
> 
> 
> & just what Craiglist Area would that be?



Electonics


----------



## Stew4msu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *haywardw* /forum/post/19409613
> 
> 
> electonics



zoom


----------



## tcannon2

Does anyone have a working download link for the 9.03 firmware update? All links that I have found are no longer valid. Mitsubishi is sending out the update but I do not want to wait 7 to 10 days if I can help it. I have been waiting for many years since I bought my 73833 to enjoy 3D viewing. After waiting a week to receive my adaptor kit, I can't wait any longer. Thanks to anyone who can help me out.


----------



## pwbaker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tcannon2* /forum/post/19411282
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a working download link for the 9.03 firmware update? All links that I have found are no longer valid. Mitsubishi is sending out the update but I do not want to wait 7 to 10 days if I can help it. I have been waiting for many years since I bought my 73833 to enjoy 3D viewing. After waiting a week to receive my adaptor kit, I can't wait any longer. Thanks to anyone who can help me out.



I got it from post 2073, but that does not seem to work now. You might try to pm him. I got it there last week and just did it last night and it worked perfectly. (sorry). Did a quick search and I can't find it now either.


BTW, I have the same tv. What is your AVR and tv source?


Good luck.


----------



## AndyKoopa

I have this hooked up to my 73833 and PS3. I noticed that the screen is really dark, with the 3D glasses on as to be expected, but I have the brightness settings all the way up. Does anyone have any settings tips for the TV or the PS3? I play MLB The Show 3D Demo and Motorstorm and they just dont seem bright on sunny maps/areas of the games (this is where the issue stands to the most to me). This is only when in the 3D Mode.


Thanks for your time and help,

-Andy


P.S. If anyone need the 9.03 firware update information and files, just email me at [email protected] . A couple people here were kind enough to help me so I want to help others


----------



## Jotbill




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *haywardw* /forum/post/19406512
> 
> 
> Check cregslist I have my emitter and glasses for sale.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jotbill* /forum/post/19407778
> 
> 
> & just what Craiglist Area would that be?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *haywardw* /forum/post/19409613
> 
> 
> Electonics



Electronics, OK, In what part of the World? (City, State)


----------



## tcannon2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pwbaker* /forum/post/19411644
> 
> 
> I got it from post 2073, but that does not seem to work now. You might try to pm him. I got it there last week and just did it last night and it worked perfectly. (sorry). Did a quick search and I can't find it now either.
> 
> 
> BTW, I have the same tv. What is your AVR and tv source?
> 
> 
> Good luck.




I currently have my PS3 connected to the adaptor. My cable service (Cox) does not carry 3D content at this time. I am considering switching to AT&T U-Verse which carries ESPN 3D and will be carrying the upcoming 3D Discovery channel. Thanks


----------



## tcannon2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AndyKoopa* /forum/post/19412275
> 
> 
> I have this hooked up to my 73833 and PS3. I noticed that the screen is really dark, with the 3D glasses on as to be expected, but I have the brightness settings all the way up. Does anyone have any settings tips for the TV or the PS3? I play MLB The Show 3D Demo and Motorstorm and they just dont seem bright on sunny maps/areas of the games (this is where the issue stands to the most to me). This is only when in the 3D Mode.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your time and help,
> 
> -Andy
> 
> 
> P.S. If anyone need the 9.03 firware update information and files, just email me at [email protected] . A couple people here were kind enough to help me so I want to help others




Hello Andy, email has been sent! Thanks, Todd


----------



## haywardw




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jotbill* /forum/post/19412292
> 
> 
> Electronics, OK, In what part of the World? (City, State)



San Antonio Texas, no longer there, sold it yesterday.


----------



## tcannon2

Hello Andy, thank you for your email containing the firmware update files. The update went perfectly. Now the adaptor is working with my PS3. But, when I went to play the 3D demo disc that came with the adaptor, it is telling me that my player does not support 3D playback. I have already updated the firmware in my PS3 which should now support 3D playback. So another battle begins.








Thanks again for your help with the update files. Thanks, Todd



Update: After reading the PS3 post in the 3D component section, I am now up and running with my PS3 in 3D on my 73" TV! This is a great forum. I only found it when trying to find a solution to my issues but I will be back. Thanks again, Todd


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jotbill* /forum/post/19412292
> 
> 
> Electronics, OK, In what part of the World? (City, State)



I am willing to sell my two glasses and emitter. They were never used. I took one pair of glasses and the emitter out of it's box to look at them and thats about it.

I'm not sure a fair price to ask for them off hand.


----------



## Turbo Ron




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenisG* /forum/post/19416110
> 
> 
> I am willing to sell my two glasses and emitter. They were never used. I took one pair of glasses and the emitter out of it's box to look at them and thats about it.
> 
> I'm not sure a fair price to ask for them off hand.



Check you pm.


Thanks, Ron


----------



## mardarlene




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tcannon2* /forum/post/19411282
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a working download link for the 9.03 firmware update? All links that I have found are no longer valid. Mitsubishi is sending out the update but I do not want to wait 7 to 10 days if I can help it. I have been waiting for many years since I bought my 73833 to enjoy 3D viewing. After waiting a week to receive my adaptor kit, I can't wait any longer. Thanks to anyone who can help me out.



Please check your email ...I just sent the update to you


----------



## Jotbill




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenisG* /forum/post/19416110
> 
> 
> I am willing to sell my two glasses and emitter. They were never used. I took one pair of glasses and the emitter out of it's box to look at them and thats about it.
> 
> I'm not sure a fair price to ask for them off hand.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Turbo Ron* /forum/post/19416278
> 
> 
> Check you pm.
> 
> 
> Thanks, Ron



Missed it.............................


Anyone else with an emitter and/or glasses to sell, please PM me?

(I'll pay a fair price just for the emitter alone.)

tia


Looks like Mits is "Never" going to get the 3D firmware update out.


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jotbill* /forum/post/19420023
> 
> 
> Looks like Mits is "Never" going to get the 3D firmware update out.



I find this hard to understand. How much different can this software be as compared to the programming in the adapter??? It's function is almost itentical, changing the different 3D formats to checkerboard. I will be very interested to see if the 2011 models are fully 3D functional. Mitsubishi could at least provide an update on the status for the 2010 model firmware update rather than leave all their customers hanging....


----------



## ptsaras




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenisG* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I am willing to sell my two glasses and emitter. They were never used. I took one pair of glasses and the emitter out of it's box to look at them and thats about it.
> 
> I'm not sure a fair price to ask for them off hand.



If your within 30 days of your purchase I would think you can return for a full refund. I did and went with just the adapter and a couple of pairs of CrystalEyes5s


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ptsaras* /forum/post/19425733
> 
> 
> If your within 30 days of your purchase I would think you can return for a full refund. I did and went with just the adapter and a couple of pairs of CrystalEyes5s



Way past 30 days.


----------



## trauma

so I found a way to use a splitter with the 3da-1 adapter to not have to go trough the menu and turn on 3d mode avery time I wanna watch 3d content. so one push of a button on my hormoney remote an switches to the hdmi input where the 3d mode is already on


xbox ps3 directv bluray 3d>5 port hdmi switch>3da-1> hdmi splitter>tv input hdmi 1 and 2. hdmi 2 always set to 3d mode


don't know if anyone has done this yet but works. splitter was $28 and switch was $18


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *trauma* /forum/post/19432345
> 
> 
> so I found a way to use a splitter with the 3da-1 adapter to not have to go trough the menu and turn on 3d mode avery time I wanna watch 3d content. so one push of a button on my hormoney remote an switches to the hdmi input where the 3d mode is already on
> 
> 
> xbox ps3 directv bluray 3d>5 port hdmi switch>3da-1> hdmi splitter>tv input hdmi 1 and 2. hdmi 2 always set to 3d mode
> 
> 
> don't know if anyone has done this yet but works. splitter was $28 and switch was $18



How are you getting HD audio for the PS3, Xbox etc?


----------



## ptsaras




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *trauma* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> so I found a way to use a splitter with the 3da-1 adapter to not have to go trough the menu and turn on 3d mode avery time I wanna watch 3d content. so one push of a button on my hormoney remote an switches to the hdmi input where the 3d mode is already on
> 
> 
> xbox ps3 directv bluray 3d>5 port hdmi switch>3da-1> hdmi splitter>tv input hdmi 1 and 2. hdmi 2 always set to 3d mode
> 
> 
> don't know if anyone has done this yet but works. splitter was $28 and switch was $18



Could you please post the model number of the splitter and switch? Sounds like a great work around.


Thanks!


----------



## lovemyram4x4

Andy thanks for sending me the update. Unfortunately it only fixed 1 of my issues, well maybe 2 once I start doing 3D.


----------



## trauma

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Wryker*
How are you getting HD audio for the PS3, Xbox etc?
my blu ray player has dual hdmi and I don't care for hd audio for the rest of my components so using optical for the rest of my stuff


----------



## trauma

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ptsaras* 
Could you please post the model number of the splitter and switch? Sounds like a great work around.


Thanks!
It doesn't have a brand but here are the links from where i got them


spitter

http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Splitter-...5&sr=1-1-fkmr1 


switch

http://www.amazon.com/5-Port-HDMI-Sw...8836554&sr=1-1


----------



## TheBluePill




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *trauma* /forum/post/19432912
> 
> 
> It doesn't have a brand but here are the links from where i got them
> 
> 
> spitter
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Splitter-...5&sr=1-1-fkmr1
> 
> 
> switch
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/5-Port-HDMI-Sw...8836554&sr=1-1



Thanks for these


----------



## bubba1972

Does anybody know how to watch a 3D BluRay in 2D? I have 'How to Train you Dragon' playing through a PS3 through the adapter. The disk doesn't provide the option to watch in 2D only. The PS3 setup for 3D requires running back through the display setup... The adapter will not change modes while the 3D disk is playing and turning it off kills the signal. Turning 3D off in the TV settings only disables the glasses, the double image is still displayed. Is rerouting around the adapter the only option?


----------



## jjmpeters

Just so I'm clear, this setup will allow you to play a 2D blu ray disk on your PS3 or 2D content from your cable box bypassing the 3DA-1 to prevent any 2D video quality issues?


Does this work? Otherwise I need to upgrade to a 1.4a AVR.






> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *andermed* /forum/post/19370847
> 
> 
> Ok, just purchased the 4x2 matrix switch and good 24awg HDMI cables (monoprice.com) to re-configure my setup... here is how I think it'll work. Any suggestions/recommendations?


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jotbill* /forum/post/19420023
> 
> 
> Missed it.............................
> 
> 
> Anyone else with an emitter and/or glasses to sell, please PM me?
> 
> (I'll pay a fair price just for the emitter alone.)
> 
> tia



PM sent


----------



## Benman

If it helps, local Chicagoland Fry's had them on sale for $240


----------



## dhvsfan

Quote:

Originally Posted by *bubba1972* 
Does anybody know how to watch a 3D BluRay in 2D? I have 'How to Train you Dragon' playing through a PS3 through the adapter. The disk doesn't provide the option to watch in 2D only. The PS3 setup for 3D requires running back through the display setup... The adapter will not change modes while the 3D disk is playing and turning it off kills the signal. Turning 3D off in the TV settings only disables the glasses, the double image is still displayed. Is rerouting around the adapter the only option?
I didn't have any success with re-routing around the adapter either. Going through the PS3 setup didn't help either. I contacted Sony and they gave me the hardware reset to clear the double image. Now it works. Somethings buggy some where.


----------



## bubba1972

What did they have you do to reset the playstation? How do you control if it is 3D or not now?


----------



## JackBarry

Originally Posted by andermed

Ok, just purchased the 4x2 matrix switch and good 24awg HDMI cables (monoprice.com) to re-configure my setup... here is how I think it'll work. Any suggestions/recommendations?


WOW, The more I read and research the more confused I get. At Best Buy they said use a splitter they have not the Switch that they have.


I have a 2010 Mitsu WD-73738 3D Ready TV and Direct TV as the Video Provider.

1) In the above configuration how is audio getting back to the Receiver when watching 3D?

2) If you only have one video source - Direct TV Receiver, what are the advantages and disadvantages of using a splitter vs a switch? (I want the audio to be coming into the receiver by way of HDMI when watching non-3D TV)

3) When watching 3D TV what is the best way to get audio back to the Receiver - Direct TV Audio Out using an optical cable or Mitsu TV Audio Out - or does it make any difference?

4) If a splitter is used, it appears that 3D and Non 3D Video signals are going thru the Mitsu Adaptor, is this a negative or does it make any difference with the 2010 Mitsu Models?

5) It would appear to this confused person that either switch or splitter would work but if going thru the Mitsu Adaptor is not a problem the use of a splitter reguires more changes TV Inputs and Switch Outputs. Is this true?


Thanks for any clarification that you all can provide.


Jack Barry


----------



## JackBarry

In the above post I meant to say in Number 5 that the use of a Switch (not the Spliter) is less user friendly because it requires changes of Inputs/Outputs on both the TV and the Switch. If that is the case the Splitter would seem to be the best solution. Am I getting more or less confused?


----------



## AndyKoopa

I just watched My Bloody Valentine 3D on my 73833. I thought the movie had some great 3D effects, but the black crush is killing me. Every time there is a dark scene it is completly ruined by the black crush. Has anyone heard if they are going to have a fix for this? It is hurting my 3D experience significantly










Thanks,

-Andy


----------



## trauma




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AndyKoopa* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just watched My Bloody Valentine 3D on my 73833. I thought the movie had some great 3D effects, but the black crush is killing me. Every time there is a dark scene it is completly ruined by the black crush. Has anyone heard if they are going to have a fix for this? It is hurting my 3D experience significantly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> -Andy



I had the same problem I have the panny bdp300 and I set the hdmi color to rgb and took care of the black crushing so if your player has that option try it. not sure if this affects the PQ it seem to be ok I didn't see the difference but the black crushing was gone


----------



## dkhbrit

I have the starter kit and want more glasses (got a few folks coming for the holidays).


What are the options? I only hvae the 2 pairs that came with the kit. If I get different glasses to these for my extras will they all work the same?


Thanks


----------



## trauma




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkhbrit* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I have the starter kit and want more glasses (got a few folks coming for the holidays).
> 
> 
> What are the options? I only hvae the 2 pairs that came with the kit. If I get different glasses to these for my extras will they all work the same?
> 
> 
> Thanks



check out the auctions on eBay for the samsung 3d starter kit you can get a good deal and comes with 2 pairs of glasses and the monster vs aliens 3d movie


----------



## NSX1992

I bought the Samsung starter kit for $195 on the internet (list price $400). You get two pairs, 3 Imax movies and coupon for How to Train Your Dragon. Or you might find the first Samsung starter kit for less but it has only Monsters vs Alliens. The Samsung glasses are the same as Mitsubishi.


----------



## ffactoryxx

Is there any picture degradation in 2d channels when running HD Box ->3da-> mitsu dlp with 3d mode on my tv turned off?


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NSX1992* /forum/post/19449653
> 
> 
> I bought the Samsung starter kit for $195 on the internet (list price $400). You get two pairs, 3 Imax movies and coupon for How to Train Your Dragon. Or you might find the first Samsung starter kit for less but it has only Monsters vs Alliens. The Samsung glasses are the same as Mitsubishi.



How to train your dragon ends tomorrow. It gets replaced with Shrek 3D movies soon.


----------



## AndyKoopa

Hi,


Off topic but I was wondering if the 73833 has a built in upscaler and if so how do I change the resolution? I am so sick of having my Wii connected with component video cables and seeing the picture in 480p. I though the 73833 would upscale,to atleast 1080i seeing as I do not have HDMI connected to the Wii.


I would have asked this in the 73833 forum but I seem to see more action here










Thanks,

-Andy


----------



## PBSengineer

The TV does upconvert everything to 1080p. It sows the resolution of the incoming signal. You must change the resolution on the source device (the wii).


----------



## walford

The TV is upscaling the 480p content to 1080p and apparently it is doing so by duplicating rows or columns of pixels so it just looks like stretched 480p. It is not trying to invent the content of the additonal pixels requiired using any more complex method.


----------



## yesan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dkhbrit* /forum/post/19449479
> 
> 
> I have the starter kit and want more glasses (got a few folks coming for the holidays).
> 
> 
> What are the options? I only hvae the 2 pairs that came with the kit. If I get different glasses to these for my extras will they all work the same?
> 
> 
> Thanks



Sent you a PM.


----------



## dhvsfan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bubba1972* /forum/post/19443326
> 
> 
> What did they have you do to reset the playstation? How do you control if it is 3D or not now?



From Sony support - Reset the PS3 by holding down the power button for 5-6 seconds to hear beeps. That seems to get it out of 3D mode. The one and only 3D Blu-ray disk I have, auto detects a 3D compatible display. If it can't configure 3D, it plays in 2D. It usually requires playing with the 3DC adapter via the remote control.


----------



## andermed




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjmpeters* /forum/post/19436425
> 
> 
> Just so I'm clear, this setup will allow you to play a 2D blu ray disk on your PS3 or 2D content from your cable box bypassing the 3DA-1 to prevent any 2D video quality issues?
> 
> 
> Does this work? Otherwise I need to upgrade to a 1.4a AVR.



Yes, the intention was to have one TV input (HDMI1) in 3D, and another (HDMI3) in 2D mode. Then use the switch/splitter to output video/audio to the appropriate devices (TV and AVR) depending on what I want to watch.


This worked, but I did have to tweak a couple of things. Attached is my final cabling configuration.









The Harmony remote software already has the Monoprice switch/splitter device in its database, so setup of my Harmony One remote was easy.


Things I found:

- When the switch/splitter was outputting the PS3 to both output A(connected to TV) and B(connected to AVR) simultaneously, the audio for everything 2D would get through to the AVR, but the audio for 3D content would not. I tried all 3D blu-rays, downloaded 3D video clips from the PS Store, current game demos in 3D. The 3D video would work perfectly, but I'd have zero audio until I switched back to 2D content. I made multiple attempts to try to get this to work by changing and redoing PS3 configs for audio streams, resetting everything and starting over, but ended up compromising and outputting the PS3 audio using the optical cable, this worked.

- My TV (Mitsubishi WD-73833) doesn't have an easy 3D ON/OFF switch, and it reverts the HDMI1 input back to 2D sometimes. So I've had to program the Harmony with extra functions to turn the 3D mode (called FX Gaming on my TV) by navigating 10 menu commands, it's paiful to watch but it works. I even contacted Logitech and Mitsubishi support but both told me such a "secret" 3D ON/OFF command doesn't exist for my TV.


----------



## andermed




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ffactoryxx* /forum/post/19449837
> 
> 
> Is there any picture degradation in 2d channels when running HD Box ->3da-> mitsu dlp with 3d mode on my tv turned off?



I haven't noticed any picture degradation with 3D OFF. (My TV is the WD-73833)


----------



## andermed




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JackBarry* /forum/post/19446712
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by andermed
> 
> Ok, just purchased the 4x2 matrix switch and good 24awg HDMI cables (monoprice.com) to re-configure my setup... here is how I think it'll work. Any suggestions/recommendations?
> 
> 
> WOW, The more I read and research the more confused I get. At Best Buy they said use a splitter they have not the Switch that they have.
> 
> 
> I have a 2010 Mitsu WD-73738 3D Ready TV and Direct TV as the Video Provider.
> 
> 1) In the above configuration how is audio getting back to the Receiver when watching 3D?
> I had to use two different approaches: for the PS3, I used HDMI for video and Optical for Audio; for the Cable Box I used the HDMI for video and audio. I connected my 3D capable devices, PS3 and Cable Box, to the HDMI Switch/Splitter so that I could tell the switch/splitter to output their signal to the TV(for video) and AVR(for audio) simultaneously.
> 2) If you only have one video source - Direct TV Receiver, what are the advantages and disadvantages of using a splitter vs a switch? (I want the audio to be coming into the receiver by way of HDMI when watching non-3D TV)
> If you only have one device, all you need is a splitter (splits the HDMI out from your DirecTV box to two HDMI's (one to TV for video, one to AVR for audio). If you add a 3D Blu-ray later you have the option of buying a second splitter for the Blu-ray, in which case you'll have to use up another HDMI input on your TV; or you could get a switch/splitter to handle both while only using one HDMI input on your TV.
> 3) When watching 3D TV what is the best way to get audio back to the Receiver - Direct TV Audio Out using an optical cable or Mitsu TV Audio Out - or does it make any difference?
> I haven't tested the TV audio out, but I would imagine there could be a slight delay (video and audio out of sync). I believe the best connection is the simplest one with the least conversions of signal type. So a splitter that could split the HDMI signal in two for TV and AVR would be best in my opinion.
> 4) If a splitter is used, it appears that 3D and Non 3D Video signals are going thru the Mitsu Adaptor, is this a negative or does it make any difference with the 2010 Mitsu Models?
> The 3-DA1 adapter handles 3D and non-3D equally well. I have a 2007 Mitsu model, so I don't know but I would imaging the 2010 model has a distinct 3D ON/OFF button no? If it does then it should be easy to turn 3D OFF when watching regular content and ON when watching 3D content. (Mine is a pain as I have to go through 10 menu steps to turn 3D ON/OFF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 5) It would appear to this confused person that either switch or splitter would work but if going thru the Mitsu Adaptor is not a problem the use of a splitter reguires more changes TV Inputs and Switch Outputs. Is this true?
> You got it.
> Thanks for any clarification that you all can provide.
> 
> 
> Jack Barry


Hi Jack, see my responses in blue above.


Here is my final cabling setup for your reference:










Anderson


----------



## JackBarry

Anderson,


Thanks for the very concise and informative reply.


Jack Barry


----------



## pmalter0

The 3da1 adapter crushes 2d blacks--you should route 2d around it. Only blu-ray has lossless audio; you can use optical for any other audio with no quality loss(no need to split hdmi).


----------



## BradP

I think it only crushes blacks if you turn 3D mode on in the TV, right?


----------



## DragonFax

Does anyone still have the 9.03 FW update for 73833. The links in this thread seem to have stopped working already.


----------



## slgoldberg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DragonFax* /forum/post/19463750
> 
> 
> Does anyone still have the 9.03 FW update for 73833. The links in this thread seem to have stopped working already.



Yes, you know, I'm astounded how hard everyone is making this (the 50+ files that have to be downloaded manually instead of a single ZIP file? no instructions? wow).


So to save everyone else a lot of pain, I've put everything in one place, easy to get, will not be taken down because it's not on some fly-by-night service but rather on Google Docs. The instructions and download are all ready, but this forum won't let me post the link (wow, what a pain) so please reconstruct the link from the following and someone please re-post it for me as a real link:



> Quote:
> goo.gl/piO2X (copy/paste into address bar in browser)



Just to be safe, I didn't make the ZIP file itself visible without the link; but if you just click the instructions, the link is there. Please post here if you can't access it for some reason, and I'll fix it immediately.


Steve


----------



## slgoldberg

By the way, I also uploaded the ZIP file I created by manually downloading all 50+ files from the silly box.net repository so that everyone who wants to go there can just grab that *one* file (the .zip file) and go from there. I don't get why nobody has done this before. Weird. Anyway, I hope folks can benefit from this. (Go back to page 61 of this thread to see the instructions for logging into the box.net site. However, honestly, you shouldn't need that now, since I created the other file (see short link above).


Steve


----------



## AndyKoopa

Thank you to everyone for all of your help. I was able to resolve the terrible black crush issue by switching my PS3 and 360 to RGB limited.


I just purcashed Call of Duty Black Ops for XBOX 360 and I tried the 3D in that game. I really like the 3D but I can't stand how dark the glasses are, tehy really take away from the color, no matter how high I se the color settings. Anyone have any settings tips? Is the bright video setting a custome setting that makes the video brighter than natural? As in, does this setting result in a brighter picture than natural can be set to? Like a hidden setting? Maybe this would help. Then again I am being picky










Thanks,

-Andy


----------



## Spoodily

I set my tv to bright mode with deepfield imager on for 3D. I use natural for normal viewing.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spoodily* /forum/post/19464650
> 
> 
> I set my tv to bright mode with deepfield imager on for 3D. I use natural for normal viewing.



Ditto - I turn on bright mode.


----------



## Hyabusha

My TV's always on bright mode.


----------



## JackBarry

It's hard to believe anyone would use Bright Mode without altering the settings. Maybe if you are into cartoons.


----------



## Hyabusha

Turn down the color to 26 and your fine.


----------



## Stew4msu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/19466665
> 
> 
> Turn down the color to 26 and your fine.



Maybe you're fine, but not many others would be.


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stew4msu* /forum/post/19466703
> 
> 
> Maybe you're fine, but not many others would be.



I'm also fine with bright mode. I tried the others and liked bright the best. I did change a lot of the settings as well.


----------



## Mega1

I had the same problem but I stumbled upon a solution by accident since I didn't recieve my switcher and hdmi splitter yet. I have my adaptor connected to hdmi input #1 which is set for the cable box. For some reason that is the only way i can select brilliant mode, try it, you might like it!!


----------



## ajricaud




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mega1* /forum/post/19467569
> 
> 
> I had the same problem but I stumbled upon a solution by accident since I didn't recieve my switcher and hdmi splitter yet. I have my adaptor connected to hdmi input #1 which is set for the cable box. For some reason that is the only way i can select brilliant mode, try it, you might like it!!



Which TV model do you have?


----------



## Mega1




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajricaud* /forum/post/19467631
> 
> 
> which tv model do you have?



65c9.


----------



## jjmpeters

I would like to use my HTPC to play PC games with my WD-65C10 and this kit when it arrives. With a GeForce card to I need the Nvidia Vision Kit or can I use the glasses and emitter that can with the Mits Starter Kit? If yes can you point me to where I can find out more? Thx.


----------



## NSX1992

No .You need the Nvidia Vision kit to convert 2D to 3D as the best solution if you have the right GPU. Other options exist also.


----------



## Mega1

Can anybody tell me where I can find 2 more pair of compatible glasses for the 3DC-1000 starter kit at? With a family of 4 it would be nice if we could view the 3d programming all at once! lol!!


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mega1* /forum/post/19470472
> 
> 
> Can anybody tell me where I can find 2 more pair of compatible glasses for the 3DC-1000 starter kit at? With a family of 4 it would be nice if we could view the 3d programming all at once! lol!!



You could try these, http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...2&blockType=G2 (haven't used them)


or the Samsung glasses also work http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Samsung+...=9828673&st=3d glasses samsung&cp=1&lp=2 which are the same glasses but with Samsung printed in the frames.


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rad* /forum/post/19470539
> 
> 
> You could try these, http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...2&blockType=G2 (haven't used them)
> 
> 
> or the Samsung glasses also work http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Samsung+...=9828673&st=3d glasses samsung&cp=1&lp=2 which are the same glasses but with Samsung printed in the frames.



I might try the Samsung glasses but I would never get them from Best Buy because they usually are NOT the best buy.


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/19470743
> 
> 
> I might try the Samsung glasses but I would never get them from Best Buy because they usually are NOT the best buy.



Just using them as a link to the model glasses that work, Gee, picky picky picky.


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rad* /forum/post/19470801
> 
> 
> Just using them as a link to the model glasses that work, Gee, picky picky picky.



Thanks but the link didn't work as it didn't take me to the glasses.


----------



## dhvsfan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mega1* /forum/post/19470472
> 
> 
> Can anybody tell me where I can find 2 more pair of compatible glasses for the 3DC-1000 starter kit at? With a family of 4 it would be nice if we could view the 3d programming all at once! lol!!



Well ..... if you bought them at the correct time, Mits is giving them away as a promo. Quote from Mits website: "Get A FREE 3D Starter Pack*, Two Extra Pairs Of 3D Glasses AND A FREE Wireless Adapter!*


This was valid between Oct 10-23.


Unfortunately, I couldn't get any of these nice promo's.


----------



## Mega1

Thanks to all for the responses, I just came back from the "whats wrong with my mits 3dtv" thread and I heard a whole lot about Optoma BG-ZD101 glasses and how they are way more superior to the Mitts IR packaged in glasses. Should I go the way of the Dlp links or what??


----------



## WirelessGuru




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mega1* /forum/post/19470472
> 
> 
> Can anybody tell me where I can find 2 more pair of compatible glasses for the 3DC-1000 starter kit at? With a family of 4 it would be nice if we could view the 3d programming all at once! lol!!



I suggest picking up the new Samsung Starter pack off of E-bay. for $215 shipped I got 2 pair Samsung glasses, 3 full length imax features and How to Train Your Dragon 3D.


----------



## ffactoryxx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *WirelessGuru* /forum/post/19474214
> 
> 
> I suggest picking up the new Samsung Starter pack off of E-bay. for $215 shipped I got 2 pair Samsung glasses, 3 full length imax features and How to Train Your Dragon 3D.



Which version. Saw a couple of packs.


Also how do they compare to the x103's


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ffactoryxx* /forum/post/19474248
> 
> 
> Which version. Saw a couple of packs.
> 
> 
> Also how do they compare to the x103's



There are reports in another thread that the x103s have flickering problems when DLP Link is on. So, for pre-2010 sets where DLP Link is always on when 3D mode is on, x103s may not be a very good choice unless Xpand develops a fix. For 2010 sets where DLP Link can be turned off, x103s are said to be good.


----------



## ffactoryxx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19474690
> 
> 
> There are reports in another thread that the x103s have flickering problems when DLP Link is on. So, for pre-2010 sets where DLP Link is always on when 3D mode is on, x103s may not be a very good choice unless Xpand develops a fix. For 2010 sets where DLP Link can be turned off, x103s are said to be good.



Thanks.


So for 2009 sets what is the best option at the moment?


----------



## tcannon2

I have the 2007 73833 with both Xpand 102's and the Samsung IR glasses. The Xpand glasses show deeper blacks and the Samsung glasses are more comfortable. Also, the Xpands must run in reverse mode while the Samsungs run in normal mode. So you cannot use both types at the same time.


----------



## AndyKoopa

Hi I have the 3DC-1000 Kit and I was looking to add 2 pairs of 3D glasses, so I can still use my Mitsubishi glasses and 4 people can watch a movie. I was originally looking at the Optoma BG-ZD101 DLP Link 3D Glasses ( http://www.amazon.com/Optoma-BG-ZD10...=2J4PQFI2TEVE3 ) and the Xpand glasses but I read these are both running in reverse 3D. So, these will not be compatible if using with my Mitsubishi glasses? (So 4 people can watch at once)


Are the glasses from the Samsung kit compatible at the same time with the Mitsubishi glasses? Or can you buy extra Mitsubishi glasses without buying another kit?


Thanks for your time and help,

-Andy


----------



## AndyKoopa

I was looking into this Samsung kit: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-3D-Sta...=2J4PQFI2TEVE3 


I see them on eBay for much cheaper but was wondering if these 3D glasses will be compatible with my 2 existing Mitsubishi 3D glasses (with the 3DC-1000 and a 73833).


thanks again,

-Andy


----------



## walford

You need the Viewsonic DLP-Link glases if you want to use DLP-Linke glases and IR remitter glases at the same time. The Viewsonic glases have a switch in the frame to reverse the sync.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AndyKoopa* /forum/post/19475904
> 
> 
> I was looking into this Samsung kit: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-3D-Sta...=2J4PQFI2TEVE3
> 
> 
> I see them on eBay for much cheaper but was wondering if these 3D glasses will be compatible with my 2 existing Mitsubishi 3D glasses (with the 3DC-1000 and a 73833).
> 
> 
> thanks again,
> 
> -Andy



Yes, they are compatible. I did the same thing. Bought the Mits kit and then also bought the Samsung kit. Also, you might be interested to know that the rechargeable Samsung glasses including the kids glasses are also compatible. Do note however that they will all suffer from the same teal blacks issue as your Mits kit glasses if you have a pre-2010 TV that forces DLP Link to be on when 3D mode is on.


If you choose the Viewsonic glasses, the teal blacks issue will go away if you have it, but you MAY have a problem with polarization rainbows on the screen. To check for the rainbow issue, wear your Mits glasses with your head tilted at a 45 degree angle and see if you see odd vertical streaks of colors near the sides of the screen when watching lightly colored scenes like white backgrounds or the sky. If you don't, then you likely won't see them when using the Viewsonics.


----------



## AndyKoopa

Thanks for your input! I do see a slight green/blue tint on my 73833. Could this also be an issue that is caused by the DLP Link? And sorry if this is a dumb question but what the hell is the DLP Link?


Has anyone heard Mitsubishi talking about another firmware update? And do you think they could resolve these issues with a firmware update?


Thanks,

-Andy


----------



## Jotbill




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AndyKoopa* /forum/post/19477588
> 
> 
> Thanks for your input! I do see a slight green/blue tint on my 73833. Could this also be an issue that is caused by the DLP Link? And sorry if this is a dumb question but what the hell is the DLP Link?
> 
> 
> Has anyone heard Mitsubishi talking about another firmware update? And do you think they could resolve these issues with a firmware update?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> -Andy



The 12.06 firmware update is scheduled to be released Tuesday 11/16 on the Mits site. It will do away with the need for Adapters on all 2010 DLP Models. Let's all hope it is.


----------



## pwbaker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jotbill* /forum/post/19482911
> 
> 
> The 12.06 firmware update is scheduled to be released Tuesday 11/16 on the Mits site. It will do away with the need for Adapters on all 2010 DLP Models. Let's all hope it is.



I think he was asking about the 73833 which I have as well. It is a pre-2010 model. I wonder if they will do any firmware updates past the 9.03.....


----------



## tcannon2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AndyKoopa* /forum/post/19477588
> 
> 
> Thanks for your input! I do see a slight green/blue tint on my 73833. Could this also be an issue that is caused by the DLP Link? And sorry if this is a dumb question but what the hell is the DLP Link?
> 
> 
> Has anyone heard Mitsubishi talking about another firmware update? And do you think they could resolve these issues with a firmware update?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> -Andy



Hello Andy, DLP-Link glasses keep their sync with the tv by pulses of white light between each frame. So they do not use an IR emmitter. These pulses are part of the DLP technology. This white flash of light is why the black areas are not as dark with the IR type glasses. They see a bit of the white flash so it washes out the picture a bit. I have both the Mits glasses that came with the adaptor and also 4 sets of glasses from the Samsung kit. They are the same glasses. Only difference is that one of them has Samsung on the side of them. You can make some tweaks with the color and brightness to help with the washed out effect. Mits 3D ready tv's made from '07 to '09 do not have the ability to turn off the DLP-Link flashes. This is possible with the '10 models. I was hoping that they would come out with a firmware update to allow you to turn off the DLP-link if you are using IR glasses.


----------



## jjmpeters

Can someone point out a link that confirms we will no longer need adapters for 2010 sets?




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jotbill* /forum/post/19482911
> 
> 
> The 12.06 firmware update is scheduled to be released Tuesday 11/16 on the Mits site. It will do away with the need for Adapters on all 2010 DLP Models. Let's all hope it is.


----------



## hoddy4

I have a wd60738. I just tried side by side 3D from Time Warner with the cable box directly connected to the TV (no adapter box). The 3D picture was fine except for a horizontal white line going partly across the middle of the screen. Has anyone else experienced this? I have 12.05 firmware. I'll try the adapter box too to see if results are different.


----------



## AndyKoopa




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pwbaker* /forum/post/19483051
> 
> 
> I think he was asking about the 73833 which I have as well. It is a pre-2010 model. I wonder if they will do any firmware updates past the 9.03.....




Yes, this is the 2007 73833 model I am talking about. Has anyone heard of any firmware updates for this model beyond 9.03? When did 9.03 release?


----------



## AndyKoopa

Thank you for all of your help!! I think I will be buying a Samsung 3D Kit for the 2 extra pairs of glasses. Now if only they fix the green blue tint issue for my 73833







. I really only notice the issue in the menus and while playing games, such as Motorstorm and COD: Black Ops. The movies seem just fine and I do not notice the tint issue at all.


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jotbill* /forum/post/19482911
> 
> 
> The 12.06 firmware update is scheduled to be released Tuesday 11/16 on the Mits site. It will do away with the need for Adapters on all 2010 DLP Models. Let's all hope it is.



Can you post a link?


Thanks jotbill


----------



## walford




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jotbill* /forum/post/19482911
> 
> 
> The 12.06 firmware update is scheduled to be released Tuesday 11/16 on the Mits site. It will do away with the need for Adapters on all 2010 DLP Models. Let's all hope it is.



I thought that the firmware update to support all HDMI 1.4a mandatory 3D formats to do away with the adapter was only going to apply to the xx738 and xx838 2010 models which currently support only the HDMI 1.4a Side-By-Side 3D formats.


----------



## Hyabusha

Correct


----------



## Cleverland




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjmpeters* /forum/post/19485269
> 
> 
> Can someone point out a link that confirms we will no longer need adapters for 2010 sets?



Well lets not forget that DirecTV has not added the Mitz 2010 models to its accepted TV Model list so the adapter might still be required to view DirectTV 3D. Notice I say might because nobody seems to be exactly sure what their EDID handshake is looking for...I can't wait to see how this works out!!!!!










I see that this has been tested and DirectTV has been reported to work without the adapter after the update. Great News!!!!


----------



## HDNW

Walford is right- the upgrade is for the 738/838 Series 2010 models only. Other 2010 Series TVs (like the 638) and older TVs (2007 to 2009) will still require use of the adapter kit for 3D.


----------



## walford

When the upgrade is made to the xx738 and xx838 models the EDID data for these models will fully support the HDMI 1.4a mandatory format standard and then DirectTV should automatically support it. If not I am sure Mits is working with them to add them to the list.


----------



## Jotbill











> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jotbill* /forum/post/19482911
> 
> 
> The 12.06 firmware update is scheduled to be released Tuesday 11/16 on the Mits site. It will do away with the need for Adapters on all 2010 DLP Models. Let's all hope it is.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjmpeters* /forum/post/19485269
> 
> 
> Can someone point out a link that confirms we will no longer need adapters for 2010 sets?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/19485509
> 
> 
> Can you post a link?
> 
> 
> Thanks jotbill





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *HDNW* /forum/post/19485859
> 
> 
> Walford is right- the upgrade is for the 738/838 Series 2010 models only. Other 2010 Series TVs (like the 638) and older TVs (2007 to 2009) will still require use of the adapter kit for 3D.



That is correct, my mistake, I knew that.










Here are the links from another thread with a pic by a member that already has the 12.06 upgrade of his 3D Screen in the Menu







:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post19475301 

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=2594 


Also he tested it many ways & it worked in all of them *Without the Adapter*!


----------



## JackBarry

It doesn't appear that Frame Packed is supported. There a Blu-ray only supports Frame Packed would require the Mitsu Adaptor. Has anyone tested that assumption/


----------



## Jotbill




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JackBarry* /forum/post/19487075
> 
> 
> It doesn't appear that Frame Packed is supported. There a Blu-ray only supports Frame Packed would require the Mitsu Adaptor. Has anyone tested that assumption/



How do you make that assumption?


Sorry, but that's Not true.

*It does support frame packing*, that was tested also.


JackBarry,


You have constantly questioned, who, what, when, & where and when it was given to you in the thread, I've been linking to, you're still questioning it. Don't you know how to read, your posts of questions are all over this linked thread on the very Same pages I have been linking to.









http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post19468302 



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DamonAthens* /forum/post/19468302
> 
> 
> So I've had the 12.06 update on my 73738 for a couple days now. Didn't post till now since I didn't have a lot of info as of yet. As far as how I got the update, no real idea. Did register it with mits and signed up for the free adapter, so they have my SN a couple different ways.
> 
> 
> So as for the real info, rounded up some different content, and here is how its working. Please note the 3d mode was set to auto and I am using DLP LINK:
> 
> 
> Tried the motorstorm 3d demo on the PS3, works great through my 1.4 AVR. PS3 detected it as a 3d device and went though its normal 3d setup.
> 
> 
> DirectTV, works directly hooked up to the TV, but still does not work properly through the AVR.
> 
> 
> And the big news. Had not seen anyone try a 3d Blu-Ray, so I picked up the My Bloody Valentine 3d from bestbuy. I am pleased to report that it plays via the PS3 in 3d mode with no adapter. This looks like it is confirming that the update does enable Frame Packing. (As an additional note, with 3d mode off the picture displays as SBS images)
> 
> 
> Don't have alot of other material to demo with, but I'll gladly answer any questions.


----------



## JackBarry

I based my assumption on Frame Packed is not listed as an option in the new menu, but if it has been tested and works then that is excellent news!


Jack


----------



## AndyKoopa

Does anyone know the number and extension to call for Mitsubishi? To either request a firmware update thumb drive, which I have the latest, or to complain about the 3D issues?


----------



## DamonAthens

It has to be in the "Auto" mode to properly interpret the frame packed signal.


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AndyKoopa* /forum/post/19488232
> 
> 
> Does anyone know the number and extension to call for Mitsubishi? To either request a firmware update thumb drive, which I have the latest, or to complain about the 3D issues?



I always get the number from looking at the last page of my Mitsubishi product's user manual.


----------



## JackBarry

Jotbil,


JackBarry,You have constantly questioned, who, what, when, & where and when it was given to you in the thread, I've been linking to, you're still questioning it. Don't you know how to read, your posts of questions are all over this linked thread on the very Same pages I have been linking to.


I really don't know what you are talking about - WHAT, Where and WHEN - You apparently are misinterpreting the intent of my posts or are super-sensitive to any type of question. The objective of my posts is to obtain information that I would like and don't have. By and large I have been helped and informed for which I am grateful.


Jack Barry


----------



## fireslayer230




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/19485509
> 
> 
> Can you post a link?
> 
> 
> Thanks jotbill



Here it is........official announcement.

http://goo.gl/Wr3u2


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *fireslayer230* /forum/post/19490416
> 
> 
> Here it is........official announcement.
> 
> http://goo.gl/Wr3u2




^_^


----------



## Jotbill

*No more 3D Adapters Needed!!* :woot::woot::woot:

(Sorry, *Only 2010 xx738's & xx838's*







)

http://goo.gl/Wr3u2 

*12.06 3D HDTV DLP*.... Finally.............. Wow, Wow, Wow!!!










November 15, 2010 09:00 AM Eastern Time
*Mitsubishi Digital Electronics America Makes it Easier to Experience 3D TV in the Home by Providing Free Upgrade to Support 3D Signal Formats

Mitsubishi offers free 3D TV software upgrade to owners of 738 and 838 series 3D DLP® Home Cinema TVs*


IRVINE, Calif.--(BUSINESS WIRE)--Mitsubishi Digital Electronics America, Inc. (MDEA), a pioneer in 3D home cinema TV, today made available a free 3D TV software upgrade for select 2010 Mitsubishi 3D-ready TVs, making it easier for consumers to experience large screen, immersive 3D home entertainment. The software updates 738 and 838 series Mitsubishi 3D-ready TVs to directly support all mandatory 3D signal formats prescribed by HDMI 1.4a. Upgraded Mitsubishi 738 and 838 3D TVs will directly connect to 3D sources such as Blu-ray® players and satellite and cable set-top boxes, without the need for a 3D adapter.


Size and speed are crucial to enjoying the most realistic, immersive 3D TV viewing experience, and Mitsubishi leads the market on both fronts

The free software upgrade allows Mitsubishi TV owners to keep pace with an evolving 3D TV landscape and enjoy the ultimate in immersive, large screen, theater-like 3D home entertainment. Mitsubishi 3D DLP® Home Cinema TVs offer some of the largest screen sizes available today, including 60, 65, 73 and a mammoth 82-inch, which provides more than three times the picture area of a 46-inch TV. DLP's large screen format and high speed imaging make it the preferred technology for 3D viewing.


Size and speed are crucial to enjoying the most realistic, immersive 3D TV viewing experience, and Mitsubishi leads the market on both fronts, says Frank DeMartin, vice president, marketing at Mitsubishi Digital Electronics America. With this new 3D TV software update, we keep our customers on the leading edge of 3D home entertainment, and they can now experience a full range of 3D TV content on our cinema-like large screen 3D TVs.


The new 3D TV software upgrade will be downloaded automatically and free-of-charge to 738 and 838 series Mitsubishi 3D DLP Home Cinema TVs that are connected to the internet. For those 738 and 838 series Mitsubishi TVs not connected to the internet, there are two options for integrating the 3D TV software upgrade. Owners can download the free software to a USB stick, which can then be input to the TV for a complete and simple upgrade. For those owners who do not wish to download the free software, Mitsubishi will provide upon request a USB stick with the software upgrade pre-loaded for a nominal fee. See www.mitsubishi-tv.com for details.


After the Software Update, the TVs will support the mandatory HDMI 1.4a 3D signals intended for the United States. Specifically, the TVs will support the 3D signals known as Frame Packing 1080p/24Hz and 720p/60Hz (primarily from Blu-ray players and gaming consoles), Side-by-Side in 1080i/60Hz, 1080p/24Hz/30Hz/60Hz and 720p/60Hz, Top/Bottom in 1080p/24Hz and 720p/60Hz, and Checkerboard 1080p/60Hz. However, there may be some 3D sources that are not compatible with the TVs even after the Software Update. In all cases: (1) 3D sources must connect to the TVs using the HDMI inputs; and (2) Active Shutter 3D glasses with matching synchronization emitter or DLP Link Active Shutter 3D glasses are required in order to view 3D content.


"*Update on the software news for 738 and 838 owners from this morning...*the automatic update to the TVs, directly connected to the Internet (hard wired or wireless), will start tomorrow, Tuesday, 11/16. The Mitsubishi website will go live tomorrow with all the information you need regarding the software update, including instructions for downloading from there and/or receiving the USB via mail."


Looks like we need to wait one more day for the update!


----------



## AndyKoopa

Awesome new for people who own the newer sets!! I already own the adapter for my 2007 73833 model TV. Would this update be possible for the older than 2010 TV Models? I ask because the adapter seems to be the issue regarding the blue green tint










Or maybe we will get a firmware update soon


----------



## PBSengineer

Has anyone heard anything from Mits or anybody on a fix for the DLP flash raising the black levels on pre 2010 sets? Firmware upgrade or anything? Sure is annoying.


----------



## bcterp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AndyKoopa* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Awesome new for people who own the newer sets!! I already own the adapter for my 2007 73833 model TV. Would this update be possible for the older than 2010 TV Models? I ask because the adapter seems to be the issue regarding the blue green tint
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or maybe we will get a firmware update soon



It won't be possible for you and unfortunately Mitsubishi has said they can not correct the green tint (dlp-link).


----------



## bcterp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AndyKoopa* /forum/post/19491420
> 
> 
> Awesome new for people who own the newer sets!! I already own the adapter for my 2007 73833 model TV. Would this update be possible for the older than 2010 TV Models? I ask because the adapter seems to be the issue regarding the blue green tint
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or maybe we will get a firmware update soon



This thread deals with the issue:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1265214 


In summary it is caused by DLP-Link being forced on with 3D mode, not the adapter. The 2010 models can turn this option off when using emitter glasses. Mitsubishi has said to many people that they can not fix this and there will never be a fix. Sorry, this is a major reason that I sold my 2009 TV and got a 2010.


----------



## tcannon2

Hello everyone, I have the 73833 '07 Mits tv. I have a PS3 3D source and the 3DC-1000 adaptor kit with Mits IR glasses. Before realizing that the Xpand X102 DLP-Link glasses run on the reverse setting, I ordered a pair to evaluate. While the Xpand glasses do offer deeper blacks verses the washed out blacks using the IR glasses, it bothered me that I could not use both at the same time (in case extra people came over to watch a movie). I happened to remember that many years ago, I had ordered a converter that reversed the left and right eyes for DLP projectors. This was for a racing sim setup I used back then. I dug it out today and installed it between the adaptor box and the IR emitter. It works! Now I can use all of my Mits (and Samsung) IR glasses along with the Xpand X102 glasses at the same time in reverse mode on the tv. I just checked and the IR converter is still available at http://www.3dflightsim.com/product/product_01.htm . It is $59. There may be better cheaper solutions out there and someone else may have already brought this up but I just wanted to throw this out as a possible solution for those of you with the same situation I was in. Thanks! Todd


----------



## jjknatl

Quote:

Originally Posted by *tcannon2* 
I dug it out today and installed it between the adaptor box and the IR emitter. It works! Now I can use all of my Mits (and Samsung) IR glasses along with the Xpand X102 glasses at the same time in reverse mode on the tv. I just checked and the IR converter is still available at http://www.3dflightsim.com/product/product_01.htm . It is $59.
Awesome info! That alleviates one concern I had about trying a pair of crystaleyes 5, but no worries now.


Also, I noticed that they sell IR glasses that are compatible with the Mits kit emitter for $59.95 plus shipping. If by some miracle those glasses block the DLP Link flash and avoid the polarization rainbows while otherwise performing as well as the Mits kit glasses, that would be killer.


Has anyone tried them??


----------



## tcannon2

I will probably order a pair of those soon to see how they work. For the price, I think it is worth a try.


----------



## lujan

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Jotbill* 
*No more 3D Adapters Needed!!* :woot::woot::woot:

(Sorry, *Only 2010 xx738's & xx838's*







)


...(
I will have to keep my 73833 a lot longer now to justify the price of the adapter. For those of us that get the 2010 and later models, what will you need to watch 3D, just the glasses? Also, I heard from a salesman at Ultimate Electronics that the Mitsubishi DLPs were only 720p for 3D and he was trying to sell me a Panasonic which he said was 1080p for 3D. Is this right? Will the Mits DLP's always be 720p for 3D or are the newer sets 1080p for 3D?


----------



## pwbaker

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jjknatl* 
Awesome info! That alleviates one concern I had about trying a pair of crystaleyes 5, but no worries now.


Also, I noticed that they sell IR glasses that are compatible with the Mits kit emitter for $59.95 plus shipping. If by some miracle those glasses block the DLP Link flash and avoid the polarization rainbows while otherwise performing as well as the Mits kit glasses, that would be killer.


Has anyone tried them??
Has anyone tried those glasses. I love researching this stuff but it's not always easy to keep up with......................


----------



## BradP

For 2010 set owners who want to use DLP Link glasses (not the kind in the kit, sold separately, Optomas, Viewsonics, etc) - We will need no extra hardware.


To use glasses like the ones in the kit, IR style, we'd need only the emitter from the kit, not the 3d box and extra cabling.


----------



## mardarlene

Quote:

Originally Posted by *DragonFax* 
Does anyone still have the 9.03 FW update for 73833. The links in this thread seem to have stopped working already.
Send me you email address and I can send you the update


----------



## sk4859

I'm not sure if anyone has posted this about the green tint, but this is something I noticed last night with my 73833. You can leave the HDMI input name as "GAME" and turn off the 3d ability under gaming. The video is the same as on any other input. When you want to use 3d, just go into the gaming option and turn on 3d. yes this is an extra step, but it does get rid of green tint on 2d video and doesn't require a hdmi splitter or another receiver with 2 hdmi outputs just to avoid the green tint.

Again - sorry if someone else has already mentioned this or this was obvious.


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sk4859* /forum/post/19495908
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if anyone has posted this about the green tint, but this is something I noticed last night with my 73833. You can leave the HDMI input name as "GAME" and turn off the 3d ability under gaming. The video is the same as on any other input. When you want to use 3d, just go into the gaming option and turn on 3d. yes this is an extra step, but it does get rid of green tint on 2d video and doesn't require a hdmi splitter or another receiver with 2 hdmi outputs just to avoid the green tint.
> 
> Again - sorry if someone else has already mentioned this or this was obvious.



I suppose if you have it set up like me, you don't have to do this extra step? I have it set up so that I only watch 3D on HDMI2 and I watch everything else on HDMI1 so I don't have to mess with changing the 3D ability under gaming.


----------



## Jotbill




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/19495359
> 
> 
> I will have to keep my 73833 a lot longer now to justify the price of the adapter. *For those of us that get the 2010 and later models, what will you need to watch 3D, just the glasses?* Also, I heard from a salesman at Ultimate Electronics that the Mitsubishi DLPs were only 720p for 3D and he was trying to sell me a Panasonic which he said was 1080p for 3D. Is this right? Will the Mits DLP's always be 720p for 3D or are the newer sets 1080p for 3D?



The Mits/Samsung 3D Glasses & the Emitter, unless you use DLP Link 3D Glasses, then No emitter needed.


----------



## ajricaud




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/19495359
> 
> 
> I will have to keep my 73833 a lot longer now to justify the price of the adapter. For those of us that get the 2010 and later models, what will you need to watch 3D, just the glasses? Also, I heard from a salesman at Ultimate Electronics that the Mitsubishi DLPs were only 720p for 3D and he was trying to sell me a Panasonic which he said was 1080p for 3D. Is this right? Will the Mits DLP's always be 720p for 3D or are the newer sets 1080p for 3D?



Not true. The Mits' display 3D at 1080P.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajricaud* /forum/post/19497114
> 
> 
> Not true. The Mits' display 3D at 1080P.



There has been a lengthy discussion about this in prior posts. Mits creates 1080p by using two half resolution sub-frames with diamond shaped pixels. When your eye sees both, you see a 1920x1080 frame because of image persistence (the sub-frames switch fast enough that you can't tell), in other words your brain takes the first and second subframes of a given eye and blends them. This process is called wobulation, which creates a higher resolution image from two lesser resolution images due to image persistence in our brains.


In 3D, Mits produces a left eye frame with one of those half resolution sub-frames, then produces a right eye frame with the other half resolution sub-frame. Because each eye only sees one of the sub-frames, each eye is only getting half resolution.


It is somewhat philosophical as to whether that is 1080p 3D or not. The brain is meshing the left eye and right eye frames together (as opposed to meshing both frames for each eye as in 2D), so one might argue that what the brain actually puts together from what both eyes see is 1080p 3D. However, if you get close enough, far too close to actually watch TV, and compare 2D versus 3D, you can see the lack of resolution in 3D....you see larger diamond pixels (the actual pixel size on the DMD) in 3D instead of the small diamond pixels that appear in 2D.


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

hi guys i have the new 2010 mitsubishi tv wd60738.can anybody tell me when and how to get the update so i dont need the adapter anymore.any info i would apreciete.thank you


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/19497673
> 
> 
> hi guys i have the new 2010 mitsubishi tv wd60738.can anybody tell me when and how to get the update so i dont need the adapter anymore.any info i would apreciete.thank you


 http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/3Dupgrade.html


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/19495359
> 
> 
> Will the Mits DLP's always be 720p for 3D or are the newer sets 1080p for 3D?



Technically, each sub-frame is half of 1920x1080. Mitsubishi declares each subframe as 960x1080 so that they can advertise the sets as 1080p (and perhaps because they wobulate using a horizontal shift), because everybody only notices the vertical resoultion, i.e., 1080p. They could have instead declared each sub-frame as 1920x540. Because the pixels are diamond shaped, the half-resolution still provides the proper aspect ratio but a normal rectangular dimension doesn't apply exactly so you can refer to it either way. If you count zig-zag among the diamonds in the horizontal while counting corner to corner among the diamonds in the vertical, you get 1920x540. Zig zag in vertical with corner to corner in the horizontal results in 960x1080, so it is really just which way you want to count it.


The bottom line is that the sub-frame is half of 1920x1080. That works out to about 100k pixels more than a 720p frame, but is obviously much closer in pixel count to a 720p frame than a 1920x1080p frame.


As noted in my previous post, it is a bit philosophical as to whether the left and right half resolution sub-frames can be considered 1080p once the brain meshes it all together.


However, a plasma or LCD 3D set uses full 1920x1080 left and right frames.


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19497686
> 
> 
> Technically, each sub-frame is half of 1920x1080. ...
> 
> 
> The bottom line is that the sub-frame is half of 1920x1080. That works out to about 100k pixels more than a 720p frame, but is obviously much closer in pixel count to a 720p frame than a 1920x1080p frame.
> 
> 
> As noted in my previous post, it is a bit philosophical as to whether the left and right half resolution sub-frames can be considered 1080p once the brain meshes it all together.
> 
> 
> However, a plasma or LCD 3D set uses full 1920x1080 left and right frames.



What an excellent explanation and thanks jjknatl. Not sure I understand it but it seems much more complicated than I originally suspected. In any event, the brain sees it as full HD as I understand it.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/19497808
> 
> 
> ... and thanks jjknatl.



No problem. Yes, the concepts of wobulation and a diamond pixel DMD create quite a bit of complexity to the explanation, but that setup works out very nicely to produce 1080p 2D while also producing a very good 3D image (regardless of the resolution you believe it to be) with a relatively cheap DMD, and hence a relatively cheap 3D capable TV.


----------



## djr357

Hello all, I'm hoping someone can help me out Here is my setup Mitsubishi 73 C9 3D capable TV, Mitsubishi 3DA-1 Adapter, Onkyo 805 receiver, and a PS3. The problem I have is the I can't take advantage of the TrueHD or DTS Master Audio while watching 3D because I have to use optical audio out as opposed to HDMI for the audio. I am thinking of taking advantage of the Sony BDP-s470 Disney deal. Will I be able to both watch 3D and hear the Dolby TrueHD or DTS Master Audio tracks at the same time with this player (BDP-S470) or is it strictly due to the fact that my receiver is not 3D capable? And if it is due to the receiver, is there anything I can do whether it's an HDMI switch box or any other options to watch 3D and hear the TrueHD or DTS Master Audio tracks? Thanks very much J


----------



## DenisG

PS3 doesn't do HD audio when watching Blu-ray 3D.

Panasonic Blu-ray 3D player set to checkerboard output. Run HDMI trough receiver. Done, 3D and HD audio.


----------



## djr357




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenisG* /forum/post/19501394
> 
> 
> PS3 doesn't do HD audio when watching Blu-ray 3D.
> 
> Panasonic Blu-ray 3D player set to checkerboard output. Run HDMI trough receiver. Done, 3D and HD audio.



Can you specify which model Panasonic player I would need or can I use anyone? Thanks for the help!


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djr357* /forum/post/19501523
> 
> 
> Can you specify which model Panasonic player I would need or can I use anyone? Thanks for the help!



300 or 350 but some people are saying that they've already stopped selling them. If so, you may have to wait for the next model.


----------



## djr357




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djr357* /forum/post/19501523
> 
> 
> Can you specify which model Panasonic player I would need or can I use anyone? Thanks for the help!



I believe I need one with dual HDMI because my receiver is not 3D capable correct?


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djr357* /forum/post/19501680
> 
> 
> I believe I need one with dual HDMI because my receiver is not 3D capable correct?



The 300/350 have two HDMI outputs.


----------



## joerod

If anyone needs the Mits 3D Starter Kit let me know.


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djr357* /forum/post/19501680
> 
> 
> I believe I need one with dual HDMI because my receiver is not 3D capable correct?



Checkerboard passes through my NR807 just fine through HDMI main. I'm not using the HDMI sub on my Panasonic 350.


----------



## djr357




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenisG* /forum/post/19502513
> 
> 
> Checkerboard passes through my NR807 just fine through HDMI main. I'm not using the HDMI sub on my Panasonic 350.



Hi but when passing through your 807 do you have both TrueHD audio and 3D pic? Thx


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *djr357* /forum/post/19502976
> 
> 
> Hi but when passing through your 807 do you have both TrueHD audio and 3D pic? Thx



Yes 3D and TrueHD/DTS HD Master.


----------



## Wryker

It's important to note if you've tested for both BD 3D and PS3 3D Gaming in HD audio.


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

ok i have the 2010 wd60738 tv i got the upgrade and i took the adapter out .now what i notice is when i watch 3d im getting eyestrain wich before i never had when i was watching 3d thrue adaptor.another thing i notice its with the upgrade the top botton format doesnt even rendered the way it suppose to be its not shoing real 3d picture. anybody expirience the same or its just me? i have the wd60738 thrue ps3


----------



## tcannon2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joerod* /forum/post/19501827
> 
> 
> If anyone needs the Mits 3D Starter Kit let me know.



PM sent!


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/19504756
> 
> 
> ok i have the 2010 wd60738 tv i got the upgrade and i took the adapter out .now what i notice is when i watch 3d im getting eyestrain wich before i never had when i was watching 3d thrue adaptor.another thing i notice its with the upgrade the top botton format doesnt even rendered the way it suppose to be its not shoing real 3d picture. anybody expirience the same or its just me? i have the wd60738 thrue ps3



Have you tried toggling the Reverse-Standard setting?


----------



## Blackagent

does anyone know if you still need the emmiter


----------



## ccleveng




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *BradP* /forum/post/19495385
> 
> 
> For 2010 set owners who want to use DLP Link glasses (not the kind in the kit, sold separately, Optomas, Viewsonics, etc) - We will need no extra hardware.
> 
> 
> To use glasses like the ones in the kit, IR style, we'd need only the emitter from the kit, not the 3d box and extra cabling.



I just installed 12.06 on my 82738 and I don't already have the kit. If I want to use IR style rather than DLP Link where can I purchase just the emitter? Thx


----------



## Spoodily




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ccleveng* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> I just installed 12.06 on my 82738 and I don't already have the kit. If I want to use IR style rather than DLP Link where can I purchase just the emitter? Thx



Google Mits tv parts and you will find the page. You type in your model number and the emitter is like $15.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Spoodily* /forum/post/19508840
> 
> 
> Google Mits tv parts and you will find the page. You type in your model number and the emitter is like $15.




That "emitter" is the NetCommand IR blaster cable for controlling other components. Call Mitsu parts (800) 553-7278 and order Part #SSG-2100ME/ZA.


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

i did try the reverse its even worse,so did u or anybody try the top boton format ?i can say that with the upgrade the resolution its much better than with the adapter its no more greyish its more black but now its cousing eyestrayin and wont render the top boton/should.i had the update automaticly on my tv thrue my internet ,maybe it didnt install good ,should i over install it thrue usb myself?


----------



## Xerobull

Hey folks.


I parsed the entire thread with ctrl+f for 'nvidia' and couldn't find 100% of the info I need.


I'm interested in setting up the nvidia 3d vision with my mitsu 73738. I have the mitsu 3d starter pack.


Question- are the nvidia glasses compatible with the starter pack emitter? In other words, can I use them for regular 3d viewing and gain an extra set of glasses by purchasing the nvidia 3d vision kit?


Will the 3d starter pack glasses work with the nvidia 3d vision?


Also, can I use DLP link glasses AND the IR emitter-style (3d kit) glasses at the same time? Or is it all one or the other depending on the way the TV interacts with the glasses.


Other minor questions- the nvidia 3dtv - has anyone used this software? Thoughts? And the 3d photo viewing...anyone fiddled with this?


Thanks. AVS for the win, as usual.


----------



## Spoodily

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Augerhandle*
That "emitter" is the NetCommand IR blaster cable for controlling other components. Call Mitsu parts (800) 553-7278 and order Part #SSG-2100ME/ZA.
Thanks. The quickest way to get correct info is to give wrong info, lol.


----------



## walford

Quote:

Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* 
i did try the reverse its even worse,so did u or anybody try the top boton format ?i can say that with the upgrade the resolution its much better than with the adapter its no more greyish its more black but now its cousing eyestrayin and wont render the top boton/should.i had the update automaticly on my tv thrue my internet ,maybe it didnt install good ,should i over install it thrue usb myself?
What HDMI 1.4a Top-bottom 3D source are you trying to use?


----------



## walford

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Xerobull* 
Hey folks.


I parsed the entire thread with ctrl+f for 'nvidia' and couldn't find 100% of the info I need.


I'm interested in setting up the nvidia 3d vision with my mitsu 73738. I have the mitsu 3d starter pack.


Question- are the nvidia glasses compatible with the starter pack emitter? In other words, can I use them for regular 3d viewing and gain an extra set of glasses by purchasing the nvidia 3d vision kit?


Will the 3d starter pack glasses work with the nvidia 3d vision?


Also, can I use DLP link glasses AND the IR emitter-style (3d kit) glasses at the same time? Or is it all one or the other depending on the way the TV interacts with the glasses.


Other minor questions- the nvidia 3dtv - has anyone used this software? Thoughts? And the 3d photo viewing...anyone fiddled with this?


Thanks. AVS for the win, as usual.
You no longer need the adapter in the adapter kit since this weeks upgrade to the xx738 and xx838 models contains all of the adapter's logic. You still need the adapter and the glaes.'



Neither the Nvida 3D player emitter or glases are compatible with Mits emitter or glases.


I have not yet seen a report of anyone with a xx738 or xx838 model report that they able to enable both DLP-Link and the IR emitter at the same time like you can in the non xx738 and xx838 models.


What do you intend to use the Nvida 3D player for?


----------



## Xerobull




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19513539
> 
> 
> You no longer need the adapter in the adapter kit since this weeks upgrade to the xx738 and xx838 models contains all of the adapter's logic. You still need the adapter and the glaes.'
> 
> 
> 
> Neither the Nvida 3D player emitter or glases are compatible with Mits emitter or glases.
> 
> 
> I have not yet seen a report of anyone with a xx738 or xx838 model report that they able to enable both DLP-Link and the IR emitter at the same time like you can in the non xx738 and xx838 models.
> 
> 
> What do you intend to use the Nvida 3D player for?



Games, possibly 3d conversion for regular dvds if that ever becomes possible. 3d pictures sounds fun.


I found the answer to the DLP/IR concurrently question a few pages back in this thread. Apparently the newest update disables this by design in the 2010 models...but you can use both (with some visual issues) in older models with the adapter.


Thanks for the answer- I have a friend who builds web players who has a contact at nVidia- he sent them an email, so if I find differently from that answer, I will post here.


----------



## NSX1992

I have had and still have problems with Nvidia 3D Vision kit. Installation was a headache and I am limited to the 258 series drivers. For some unknown reason the 260 series drivers on my 82837 prevent changing the resolution from 1920x1080 resulting in overscan. The 3D in Just Cause 2 is outstanding but for me some games do not work in 3D. Also I could never get live 3D to work.


For 3D BR watching and conversion of 2D dvds to 3D I bought Power DVD Ultra and it worked great. But now with the Nvidia driver changes back and forth it does not work. I am presently trying to resolve that problem.


----------



## Buddyl33

I am looking at getting the 3Dc-1000 for Xmas this year but have a couple questions regarding setup.


I have the following components:


Mitsubishi 73C9 DLP


Sony ES DA2 Reciever (No HDMI support)


PS3 - Hooked to TV via HDMI, audio hooked to reciever via fiber optic


XBOX 360 - Hooked to TV via HDMI converter by MadCatx, audio hooked to reciever via fiber optic


Scientific Atlanta HD cable box - Hooked to TV via HDMI, audio hooked to reciever via fiber optic (currently no 3D channels available on Time Warner Cable KC)


I have the following questions:


The PS3 with the latest firmware already converts it's images to checkerboard for 3D, so I would not have to run it through the converter, correct?


The Xbox does not, so I am guessing this is the device I would have to run through the converter in order to enable 3D, correct?


Finally the emitter. Will I need to plug it into the converter or the spot on the back of the TV with my setup?


Thanks in advance!


----------



## Milmanias




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Buddyl33* /forum/post/19514516
> 
> 
> I have the following questions:
> 
> 
> The PS3 with the latest firmware already converts it's images to checkerboard for 3D, so I would not have to run it through the converter, correct?
> 
> 
> The Xbox does not, so I am guessing this is the device I would have to run through the converter in order to enable 3D, correct?
> 
> 
> Finally the emitter. Will I need to plug it into the converter or the spot on the back of the TV with my setup?



Neither the PS3 or Xbox convert to checkerboard. You will need to manually switch the HDMI to the Mits adapter or buy a switch, though some of the switches will work with 3D and some won't.


It doesn't matter where the emitter is connected. I have mine to the tv, instead of the adapter.


----------



## nyc3dwd60738




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19513310
> 
> 
> What HDMI 1.4a Top-bottom 3D source are you trying to use?



some samples that i have in ps3 from utube.the side byside samples are rendered good but the top boton samples cant be rendered good .when i had the adapter i never had problem with top botom .and did i mention that kinda now im getting eyestrayin which whith adapter i never had before .


----------



## rsnyder005

I have a Panny 300 3D blue-ray and a Directv HR 24 Receiver going to a Mits 73835 tv. I tried hooking up the directv box directly to the adapter and the Panny 300 directly to the tv(via checkerboard). In short both work fine going through the adapter but the blue-ray will flicker if routed directly to the tv(even in checkerboard format) I may need to purchase a switch but has anyone else seen this problem? thanks, Ron


----------



## tazman76




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mardarlene* /forum/post/19200145
> 
> 
> Steelers1: if you want the update quicker I can send it to by email....or you could download it ...stick it on thumb drive and follow the instructions posted by ZAPIX
> 
> *IF ANYONE ON THIS FORUM WANTS THE FW 9.03 UPDATE SOONER THAN GOING THROUGH MITS...let me know and I will provide it to you...the file is 14 megs*



I would love the update if you have it, mits just shipped mine out friday. My e-mail is [email protected] ks!


----------



## tazman76

Downloaded the 9.03 update files for my 73833 onto the flash drive, followed the instructions and the tv never turns back on automatically. When I turn it back on manually it still says I'm running v9.01. Any suggestions? Does anyone else have a copy of the files they could post or send me?


----------



## tcannon2

Hello all, I have an '07 73" Mits DLP. I have the 3DC adaptor kit. I originally had an older PS3. After updating the TV firmware to 9.03 and the latest update for the PS3, I was up and running in 3D. I just bought a new PS3 bundle with the new Move setup with it. I gave my old PS3 to my nephew. Now I have a problem. I updated the new PS3 firmware. But the new PS3 forces the input name on the Mits to be "DVD". As you know, you have to change the input name to "game" in order to access and turn on the 3D feature on the Mits. Because the new PS3 forces the input name to be "DVD", I am now stuck. I have no access to the 3D menu on the TV. I tried one of the new Sony 3D BDP players and it does the same thing. I went back and tried my old PS3 with no problems. I hear that this is not a problem for the new 2010 Mits models. Does anyone have any solutions for this situation? I appreciate any help with this issue. Thanks! Todd


----------



## nc88keyz

isnt the solution to turn off HDMI CEC Control? and isnt it located in the service menu. I might be mistaken but ive seen that come up before i thought. I have an xx833 set



EDIT:

cec control is in regular set up i believe. Good luck!. Try under the inputs menu.


HDMI Net Command : On/Off


NOTE: HDMI Control allows the TV to control CEC devices.

Not all HDMI devicees are compatable with CEC

Not all CEC devices support all functions.

Unlike other devices, CEC devices are automatically named.


----------



## lujan

Sometimes you have to turn off these automatic settings in the players as well. I was tearing my hair out trying to figure out why the input kept changing to "DVD" when I turned on my Panasonic 3D blu-ray player. I ended up having to turn off whatever Panasonic calls this feature and all was well after that. I think it's more of a headache than a feature. It might only work well if you always buy the same brand for every component.


----------



## ajricaud




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tcannon2* /forum/post/19522123
> 
> 
> Hello all, I have an '07 73" Mits DLP. I have the 3DC adaptor kit. I originally had an older PS3. After updating the TV firmware to 9.03 and the latest update for the PS3, I was up and running in 3D. I just bought a new PS3 bundle with the new Move setup with it. I gave my old PS3 to my nephew. Now I have a problem. I updated the new PS3 firmware. But the new PS3 forces the input name on the Mits to be "DVD". As you know, you have to change the input name to "game" in order to access and turn on the 3D feature on the Mits. Because the new PS3 forces the input name to be "DVD", I am now stuck. I have no access to the 3D menu on the TV. I tried one of the new Sony 3D BDP players and it does the same thing. I went back and tried my old PS3 with no problems. I hear that this is not a problem for the new 2010 Mits models. Does anyone have any solutions for this situation? I appreciate any help with this issue. Thanks! Todd



I had the same problem. As I recall, I disconnected the HDMI cable from the PS3 to the TV, changed the input to "Game" on the TV, then plugged in the PS3 HDMI cable again. That worked and it's been OK since.


----------



## audionewer

do i need this adapter inorder to use xpand 102 glasses? i got 60inches Mit. 60638 DLP HDTV


----------



## tcannon2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *audionewer* /forum/post/19524902
> 
> 
> do i need this adapter inorder to use xpand 102 glasses? i got 60inches Mit. 60638 DLP HDTV



Yes, you need the adaptor in order for your 3D video source signal to be converted to the correct format for your Mits tv. You do not need the emitter but you do need the adaptor. Make sure you set your tv to reverse mode in the 3D menu for the 102 glasses.


----------



## audionewer

i want to know how does the x102 glasses work with out the emitter?


----------



## walford

X102 glases are DLP-Link glases so they don't work with any IR emiters.


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

does anybody knows if the glasses from the new samsung starter kit (comes out this december ) gonna be compatible with the mitsubishi tvs?


----------



## jjmpeters

I bought a Panasonic 3D BD player since my AVR isn't 3D compatible and I planned to use the adapter from the 3D kit to hook up my DirecTV DVR. However, I am not able to get the kit's glasses to activate with the Panasonic. I have to plug the Panasonic into the adapter to get the glasses to work.


The sole reason for buying the Panny was so I could use the kit's glasses and not have to use the adapter. What am I doing wrong?


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nyc3dwd60738* /forum/post/19526261
> 
> 
> does anybody knows if the glasses from the new samsung starter kit (comes out this december ) gonna be compatible with the mitsubishi tvs?



If the originals were compatible, it follows that the new glasses will also be compatible, otherwise they wouldn't be compatible with their own brand.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjmpeters* /forum/post/19526972
> 
> 
> I bought a Panasonic 3D BD player since my AVR isn't 3D compatible and I planned to use the adapter from the 3D kit to hook up my DirecTV DVR. However, I am not able to get the kit's glasses to activate with the Panasonic. I have to plug the Panasonic into the adapter to get the glasses to work.
> 
> 
> The sole reason for buying the Panny was so I could use the kit's glasses and not have to use the adapter. What am I doing wrong?



Is the emitter plugged into the TV or the adapter? I would think the emitter would have to be plugged into the TV if you are bypassing the adapter.


----------



## walford

AFAIK the only reason for plugging the emitter into the adapter instead of directly into the TV is so that the emitter will be turned off when the adapter is not sending content to the TV.


----------



## Buddyl33

Trying to decide if this is what I want to as for as a present for XMAS. IT seems cool, I just don't like that with my current setup I will have to either get an HDMI switch so I can run multiple devices through the converter or plug and unplug things as needed. Not sure why I thought the PS3 did Checkerboard on it's own.


----------



## tofana10am

My family and I just finished watching Disney's A Christmas Carol last night on our Mits 65C9. While the bright scenes were rendered very well, the darker scens (and believe me there are a lot) were crushed beyond belief. it ended up being a merky mess. Anybody have any solution for the 3DA-1's black crush issue? This is really a dismal failure from Mitsubishi. No matter how many different combinations I try with the Full/Limited Color and SuperBright White settings on the PS3, the dark scenes just look miserable. I've got the PS3 routed around the 3DA-1 for 2D content as the black crush issue is well known, but for this type of movie, it really ruied the experience. Any ideas?


----------



## bcterp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tofana10am* /forum/post/19529166
> 
> 
> My family and I just finished watching Disney's A Christmas Carol last night on our Mits 65C9. While the bright scenes were rendered very well, the darker scens (and believe me there are a lot) were crushed beyond belief. it ended up being a merky mess. Anybody have any solution for the HDA-1's black crush issue? This is really a dismal failure from Mitsubishi. No matter how many different combinations I try with the Full/Limited Color and SuperBright White settings on the PS3, the dark scenes just look miserable. I've got the PS3 routed around the HDA-1 for 2D content as the black crush issue is well known, but for this type of movie, it really ruied the experience. Any ideas?



Were you using the Mitsubishi glasses included in the 3D starter kit to watch? Reason I ask is that what you saw is probably the fact that DLP-Link is always enabled on all Mitusbishi DLPs other than the 2010 model year. DLP-Link is the insertion of a light flash between frames when viewing 3D content. It is intended to allow DLP-Link glasses to sync without the use of an emitter. However the glasses in the Starter Kit are emitter based and do not use this light flash, therefore the light flash is not blocked out by the glasses and is visible during darker content, this ruins the contrast and black levels. Only on the 2010 models is there an additional menu option to turn off DLP-Link. Mitsubishi considers this "normal" and has said there are no plans to correct this on the pre-2010 DLP's such as your 65C9. It was mainly because of this that I sold my 2009 DLP and got a 2010 model. I apologize if I misunderstood your question but I think that this is what you are seeing on your 65C9.


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tofana10am* /forum/post/19529166
> 
> 
> My family and I just finished watching Disney's A Christmas Carol last night on our Mits 65C9. While the bright scenes were rendered very well, the darker scens (and believe me there are a lot) were crushed beyond belief. it ended up being a merky mess. Anybody have any solution for the 3DA-1's black crush issue? This is really a dismal failure from Mitsubishi. No matter how many different combinations I try with the Full/Limited Color and SuperBright White settings on the PS3, the dark scenes just look miserable. I've got the PS3 routed around the 3DA-1 for 2D content as the black crush issue is well known, but for this type of movie, it really ruied the experience. Any ideas?



I also watched "A Christmas Carol" 3D last night and thought that there were a lot of dark scenes where you could barely see the actors. I'm not sure what you mean by "crushed" but they were mighty dark. I was thinking that maybe this was intended by the director, but maybe not? I have a 2007 model (73833). Since each input has it's own settings, I'm wondering if I might just set the brightness all the way up since I only use HDMI2 for 3D. Everything else I watch on HDMI1.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcterp* /forum/post/19529281
> 
> 
> Were you using the Mitsubishi glasses included in the 3D starter kit to watch? Reason I ask is that what you saw is probably the fact that DLP-Link is always enabled on all Mitusbishi DLPs other than the 2010 model year.



I think there are actually 2 problems that are independent of one another. The DLP Link flash ruins the black if the glasses let it be visible, but the adapter also crushes the blacks in 2D and 3D.


So, even if wearing DLP Link glasses, the blacks will not be washed out by the DLP Link flash but will still appear crushed in 3D as they do in 2D due to the adapter.


To resolve the black crush, it has been suggested that the source be set to RGB output. However, I don't think that is available for all source devices, such as DTV receivers, but I believe some have said it is available on the PS3.


Those that have the Panny 300/350 3D BD player should avoid passing the output through the adapter for this reason.


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19529357
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> Those that have the Panny 300/350 3D BD player should avoid passing the output through the adapter for this reason.



I have the Panny 300 and I'm not using the adapter, only the emitter and glasses and it's still very dark where you can hardly see the actors on some scenes.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/19529392
> 
> 
> I have the Panny 300 and I'm not using the adapter, only the emitter and glasses and it's still very dark where you can hardly see the actors on some scenes.



That's unfortunate. I have the same setup and have watched the trailer and didn't notice the issue of it being too dark (although I do notice the DLP Link flash issue). I'll get the movie soon and see if I have the same reaction.


Do you have your TV on natural, bright, or brilliant when watching 3D? I use bright and it makes a difference.


I'm guessing that if the 3D adapter were in the signal path, it would be even worse than what you have noticed.


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19529442
> 
> 
> That's unfortunate. I have the same setup and have watched the trailer and didn't notice the issue of it being too dark (although I do notice the DLP Link flash issue). I'll get the movie soon and see if I have the same reaction.
> 
> 
> Do you have your TV on natural, bright, or brilliant when watching 3D? I use bright and it makes a difference.
> 
> 
> I'm guessing that if the 3D adapter were in the signal path, it would be even worse than what you have noticed.



It's on whatever the default is as I haven't made changes to HDMI2. I have it on brilliant for HDMI1 because I like that one the best. I will watch it again this weekend and change the settings first to see what kind of a difference it makes. Thanks for the suggestion.


----------



## ajricaud




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjmpeters* /forum/post/19526972
> 
> 
> I bought a Panasonic 3D BD player since my AVR isn't 3D compatible and I planned to use the adapter from the 3D kit to hook up my DirecTV DVR. However, I am not able to get the kit's glasses to activate with the Panasonic. I have to plug the Panasonic into the adapter to get the glasses to work.
> 
> 
> The sole reason for buying the Panny was so I could use the kit's glasses and not have to use the adapter. What am I doing wrong?



You didn't mention what model Panny you have, but I would imagine that all their 3D capable players have similar setups. I have a BDT300 and you have to go into the setup menu to change the output to "checkerboard" for it to work w/a Mits TV w/o going through the adapter.


I thought it was pretty hard to find the setting because the default is "Full HD" :

1. Setup

2. TV/Device Connections

3. 3D Type

4. Checker board


Hope this helps.


----------



## tofana10am




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19529357
> 
> 
> I think there are actually 2 problems that are independent of one another. The DLP Link flash ruins the black if the glasses let it be visible, but the adapter also crushes the blacks in 2D and 3D.
> 
> 
> So, even if wearing DLP Link glasses, the blacks will not be washed out by the DLP Link flash but will still appear crushed in 3D as they do in 2D due to the adapter.
> 
> 
> To resolve the black crush, it has been suggested that the source be set to RGB output. However, I don't think that is available for all source devices, such as DTV receivers, but I believe some have said it is available on the PS3.
> 
> 
> Those that have the Panny 300/350 3D BD player should avoid passing the output through the adapter for this reason.




Thanks. I'm going to try to adjust my PS3 settings to output RGB, if they aren't set to that already. Once done, I'm going to run DVE's blacker than black pattern to see if there's any improvement. I'll post my findings soon.


I was watching with the Natural setting, and as I've mentioned, the brighter scenes looked fantastic. I cranked up the Contrast setting on the darker scenes and noticed an improvement, but this caused the brighter scenes to wash out. I can't seem to win. Hopefully the RGB from YCC will fix the problem.


----------



## NSX1992

I just think A Christmas Carol is mostly dark and that is why you can't see much. Crunching blacks I don't understand, when the scene is dark how do you expect to see? It is not the TVs fault. I do have my 82837 set on brilliant. Other movies are bright and clear so it depends on the source.


----------



## tcannon2

My mother has my old '07 73833. I now have the '10 82838. I have watched Christmas Carol on both of these TV's using the same PS3. For the '07 Mits, I tried it with both DLP-Link and IR glasses. I did see an improved view in the dark scenes with the DLP-Link glasses on the '07 Mits but I saw a major improvement on the '10 Mits while using IR glasses. I could see much more dark detail on the '10 model than I could on the '07. It is too bad that Mits does not care about an update that will allow you to turn the DLP-Link off for the older sets. It does make a big difference.


----------



## tofana10am




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tofana10am* /forum/post/19530082
> 
> 
> Thanks. I'm going to try to adjust my PS3 settings to output RGB, if they aren't set to that already. Once done, I'm going to run DVE's blacker than black pattern to see if there's any improvement. I'll post my findings soon.
> 
> 
> I was watching with the Natural setting, and as I've mentioned, the brighter scenes looked fantastic. I cranked up the Contrast setting on the darker scenes and noticed an improvement, but this caused the brighter scenes to wash out. I can't seem to win. Hopefully the RGB from YCC will fix the problem.



RGB Output setting on the PS3 did the trick. I am now able to see the blacker than black patterns on the DVE disc. I've also tweaked the settings under the Advanced Picture setting (Decreasing to 1.8 and enabling the Deep Field setting). I'm going to continue adjusting the colors, but it's already a night and day difference. Thanks guys.


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tcannon2* /forum/post/19532356
> 
> 
> My mother has my old '07 73833. I now have the '10 82838. I have watched Christmas Carol on both of these TV's using the same PS3. For the '07 Mits, I tried it with both DLP-Link and IR glasses. I did see an improved view in the dark scenes with the DLP-Link glasses on the '07 Mits but I saw a major improvement on the '10 Mits while using IR glasses. I could see much more dark detail on the '10 model than I could on the '07. It is too bad that Mits does not care about an update that will allow you to turn the DLP-Link off for the older sets. It does make a big difference.



I used to buy a Mitsubishi TV every 3 years starting from about 1995, 1998, 2001, 2004, 2007. Then I thought "this is crazy". My family has enjoyed the benefit of my older TVs. I am going to stick with the 2007 73833 until it goes bad or I can't wait any longer. In fact, I have a brand new lamp for the 73833 that I haven't even used yet so hopefully it will last a long time to come. I doubt that I will have many 3D movies so it doesn't matter right now.


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/19529346
> 
> 
> I also watched "A Christmas Carol" 3D last night and thought that there were a lot of dark scenes where you could barely see the actors. I'm not sure what you mean by "crushed" but they were mighty dark. I was thinking that maybe this was intended by the director, but maybe not? I have a 2007 model (73833). Since each input has it's own settings, I'm wondering if I might just set the brightness all the way up since I only use HDMI2 for 3D. Everything else I watch on HDMI1.



Another thing I didn't mention is that not only did I have to turn V.sub Off to get the HD audio to work but I had to turn the HD audio settings from "Bitstream" to "PCM" on the player. I thought I wouldn't have to do this since I have a 3D capable receiver (Denon 2311ci)? I guess the audio has to be processed on the player for it to work?


----------



## jjmpeters

I guess if I would have read the first post in this thread I would have answered my question. The instructions for the starter kit are wrong as you can hook the emitter directly to the TV which solves the problem I was having.


I decided to upgrade my receiver to a Yamaha RX-V867 which I was able to get at HH Gregg for $550 today. They had an open box Onkyo TX-NR708 for $519 but I decided to go with the Yamaha due to the dual HDMI out. This is my first Yamaha receiver so I hope I like it as well as the Denon and Onkyo receivers I have had in the past.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajricaud* /forum/post/19530069
> 
> 
> You didn't mention what model Panny you have, but I would imagine that all their 3D capable players have similar setups. I have a BDT300 and you have to go into the setup menu to change the output to "checkerboard" for it to work w/a Mits TV w/o going through the adapter.
> 
> 
> I thought it was pretty hard to find the setting because the default is "Full HD" :
> 
> 1. Setup
> 
> 2. TV/Device Connections
> 
> 3. 3D Type
> 
> 4. Checker board
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjmpeters* /forum/post/19526972
> 
> 
> I bought a Panasonic 3D BD player since my AVR isn't 3D compatible and I planned to use the adapter from the 3D kit to hook up my DirecTV DVR. However, I am not able to get the kit's glasses to activate with the Panasonic. I have to plug the Panasonic into the adapter to get the glasses to work.
> 
> 
> The sole reason for buying the Panny was so I could use the kit's glasses and not have to use the adapter. What am I doing wrong?


----------



## ajricaud

Glad you got it working.


----------



## jjmpeters

Can I use the adapter via this method since I am having problems getting my Mits WD-65C10 to change inputs via my Harmony remote:


DirecTV HD DVR --> 3DA-1 --> AVR (w/ HDMI 1.4a switching) --> Mits WD-65C10


This way I can send the output from my AVR to a single input on the Mits and only the DirecTV box is affected by any issues with the adapter


----------



## walford

Have you contacted Harmony Phone Support? They have an excellent reputation for resolving problems such as yours.


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjmpeters* /forum/post/19544115
> 
> 
> Can I use the adapter via this method since I am having problems getting my Mits WD-65C10 to change inputs via my Harmony remote:
> 
> 
> DirecTV HD DVR --> 3DA-1 --> AVR (w/ HDMI 1.4a switching) --> Mits WD-65C10
> 
> 
> This way I can send the output from my AVR to a single input on the Mits and only the DirecTV box is affected by any issues with the adapter



Did the new 2010 model firmware up date not include the C10 to eliminate the adapter?


----------



## kjroddy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenisG* /forum/post/19545322
> 
> 
> Did the new 2010 model firmware up date not include the C10 to eliminate the adapter?



No - just the xx738 and xx838 models


----------



## Buddyl33

Man I am so on the fence on getting this for Xmas. My primary reason for getting this would me 3D gaming, with movies being a secondary reason. My current opinion is that getting it at this time might be futile since 3D gaming is still in its infancy.


Thoughts out there based on your own experiences with this?


----------



## Wryker

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Buddyl33* 
Man I am so on the fence on getting this for Xmas. My primary reason for getting this would me 3D gaming, with movies being a secondary reason. My current opinion is that getting it at this time might be futile since 3D gaming is still in its infancy.


Thoughts out there based on your own experiences with this?
I'm mc-luvin it. I've only played some 3D demo games since I got it to watch 3D stuff. Watched some college games in 3D, Open Season, Cloudy w/a Chance of Meatballs, and up next to watch is Monster House. Looking forward to Coraline since we did see that in 3D and loved it and we didn't last 5 minutes trying to watch the 'red-green' 3D version since it was so horrible.


----------



## jjmpeters

Since my remote is 5 years old I had to pay $29 for them to fix this. They were able to add programming so it will scroll up or down through the inputs depending on what input I am on and what input I am going to.


I would have waited for the free support from the Harmony 1100 I ordered from Fry's for $70 after rebate, but I didn't think there was a chance in hell that they were going to fill all these orders at that price.




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19544176
> 
> 
> Have you contacted Harmony Phone Support? They have an excellent reputation for resolving problems such as yours.


----------



## Nick Dangerous

Silly me, I bought two pair of those Ultimate3DHeaven glasses and didn't know I needed the 3DA-1000 Starter Pack with the emitter. I only have the 3DA-1 adapter. Aw shoot.


If you have a Mitsu emitter for sale, let me know and I'll buy it from you. Am hoping to do an A/B/C demo of the IO Glasses, Ultimate3D's, and Optomas!


----------



## old corps




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick Dangerous* /forum/post/19555187
> 
> 
> Silly me, I bought two pair of those Ultimate3DHeaven glasses and didn't know I needed the 3DA-1000 Starter Pack with the emitter. I only have the 3DA-1 adapter. Aw shoot.
> 
> 
> If you have a Mitsu emitter for sale, let me know and I'll buy it from you. Am hoping to do an A/B/C demo of the IO Glasses, Ultimate3D's, and Optomas!



Nick-You can buy the emitter itself directly from Mitsubishi parts by calling them--1-800-553-7278. The part # is SSG-2100ME/2A. Probably havta wait 'til Monday. I think it's about $60 with s&h. No, I haven't done this myself. Still considering a Panny 3D player that can put out checkerboard and DLP glasses.









Yer welcome!










Ed


Looking forward to your glasses review!


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick Dangerous* /forum/post/19555187
> 
> 
> Silly me, I bought two pair of those Ultimate3DHeaven glasses and didn't know I needed the 3DA-1000 Starter Pack with the emitter. I only have the 3DA-1 adapter. Aw shoot.
> 
> 
> If you have a Mitsu emitter for sale, let me know and I'll buy it from you. Am hoping to do an A/B/C demo of the IO Glasses, Ultimate3D's, and Optomas!



Keep an eye on whether the blacks are goofed up when using the Ultimates while DLP Flash is still on. Also, keep an eye on whether the polarization rainbows show up with the Ultimates. Let us know!


----------



## ananms

Hi Everybody - I have searched the forum but could not find definitive confirmation.


Can anybody confirm that the Samsung SSG-2200KR works with firmware 12.06 on the Mitsubishi 838s?


Also, Is there any difference on settings - can these Samsung glasses be used along with the Mitsubishi ones that came with the Mitsubishi Kit?


Finally, does anybody know a good source for these glasses - there are so many available and such a wide range of prices - just wanted to see if anybody knows of any good deals around with trustworthy retailers.


Thanks in advance for any info.


----------



## Buddyl33




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Buddyl33* /forum/post/19552108
> 
> 
> Man I am so on the fence on getting this for Xmas. My primary reason for getting this would me 3D gaming, with movies being a secondary reason. My current opinion is that getting it at this time might be futile since 3D gaming is still in its infancy.
> 
> 
> Thoughts out there based on your own experiences with this?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19552129
> 
> 
> I'm mc-luvin it. I've only played some 3D demo games since I got it to watch 3D stuff. Watched some college games in 3D, Open Season, Cloudy w/a Chance of Meatballs, and up next to watch is Monster House. Looking forward to Coraline since we did see that in 3D and loved it and we didn't last 5 minutes trying to watch the 'red-green' 3D version since it was so horrible.



Anyone else?


----------



## Nick Dangerous




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *old corps* /forum/post/19555406
> 
> 
> Nick-You can buy the emitter itself directly from Mitsubishi parts by calling them--1-800-553-7278. The part # is SSG-2100ME/2A. Probably havta wait 'til Monday. I think it's about $60 with s&h. No, I haven't done this myself. Still considering a Panny 3D player that can put out checkerboard and DLP glasses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yer welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ed
> 
> 
> Looking forward to your glasses review!



Thanks Ed! Review forthcoming. I'll post it in a new thread after I'm done with the evaluation.


----------



## Nick Dangerous

FYI: this company makes a "high power" Mitsubishi and Samsung-compatible emitter: http://www.3dflightsim.com/product/product_02.htm 


Deux FYI: the folks at Ultimate3Dheaven tell me they are about 1-2 months away from releasing a Mitsubishi-compatible emitter. No word yet on the anticipated price.


----------



## Nick Dangerous

Mitsu parts referred me to the Mitsu customer service desk (800-332-2119), who subsequently told me to buy the starter pack. Even after mentioning the part number. Hmmmmm.


Has anyone managed to order the SSG-2100ME/2A emitter from Mitsubishi?


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick Dangerous* /forum/post/19562334
> 
> 
> Mitsu parts referred me to the Mitsu customer service desk (800-332-2119), who subsequently told me to buy the starter pack. Even after mentioning the part number. Hmmmmm.
> 
> 
> Has anyone managed to order the SSG-2100ME/2A emitter from Mitsubishi?



Yes.


----------



## Nick Dangerous

Well then... you must have been one of the lucky ones, because the second journey through the busy signal queue at Mitsu parts yielded the same result: "We don't sell the emitter. 3D parts are only available via the finished kits such as the 3DA-1000 from Amazon." Which, of course, is not a viable option at this point.


Seems the options have dwindled a bit: Either snag a second-hand emitter, shell out $120 for the compatible version listed above, wait for U3DH's version next month (or two) and hope the price is more reasonable, or return the glasses now and pay a 20% restocking fee.


(now contemplating which option would be the most "entertaining" at this point...







)


----------



## PaulGo

A freind of mine also purchased the emitter about two monts ago from Mitsubishi parts. It was on backorder and he had to wait several weeks for it to come in.


----------



## Nick Dangerous

I always suspected I lived in a parallel dimension. Now I am sure of it.


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick Dangerous* /forum/post/19563237
> 
> 
> I always suspected I lived in a parallel dimension. Now I am sure of it.



Fringe - it's the other dimension where Mitsubishi is selling the emitter.


----------



## Pamster




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick Dangerous* /forum/post/19559446
> 
> 
> FYI: this company makes a "high power" Mitsubishi and Samsung-compatible emitter: http://www.3dflightsim.com/product/product_02.htm
> 
> 
> Deux FYI: the folks at Ultimate3Dheaven tell me they are about 1-2 months away from releasing a Mitsubishi-compatible emitter. No word yet on the anticipated price.



Isn't this kit inclusive of a Mitsubishi compatible emitter?

http://www.ultimate3dheaven.com/x3dhdhre3dre.html 


I don't see it sold on it's own yet, but this is the kit we're looking at getting to match our Mit WD60C10...Any thoughts on it much appreciated.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pamster* /forum/post/19563702
> 
> 
> Isn't this kit inclusive of a Mitsubishi compatible emitter?
> 
> http://www.ultimate3dheaven.com/x3dhdhre3dre.html
> 
> 
> I don't see it sold on it's own yet, but this is the kit we're looking at getting to match our Mit WD60C10...Any thoughts on it much appreciated.



The emitter in that kit is for those specific kit glasses, not the Mits compatible glasses. Also, I believe you need a computer to work with the kit.


----------



## Pamster

I don't need the computer to play bluray 3D DVD's with a checkerboard compatible bluray player. The emitter works with the tv and has nothing to do with the computer software.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Pamster* /forum/post/19563806
> 
> 
> I don't need the computer to play bluray 3D DVD's with a checkerboard compatible bluray player. The emitter works with the tv and has nothing to do with the computer software.



You may be right. But I recommend that you call them first, before you buy. Some systems, such as nVIDIA, require a computer link to operate the emitter.


(red highlight by me)



> Quote:
> *Minimum System Requirements*
> _Intel® Pentium 4 1.6GHz or Athlon™ XP 512MB RAM DirectX 9.0c compatible graphics card * 100MB free disk space Windows® XP, Vista (32Bit) DirectX 9.0c compatible sound card Internet connection DVD-ROM drive Network card_
> 
> _* Please Note: *3-D DLP® Starter Pack customers must have a graphics card with DVI output*. If your video card or computer does not have a HDMI output a DVI to HDMI cable or DVI to HDMI adaptor is required to connect to a Samsung 3-D DLP® HDTV..._


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick Dangerous* /forum/post/19558017
> 
> 
> Thanks Ed! Review forthcoming. I'll post it in a new thread after I'm done with the evaluation.



I know you can't sync them yet, but do you see the polarization rainbows when looking at a lightly colored scene when wearing these glasses? If you don't see them with a level head, do you see them with your head tilted 45 degrees? thanks.


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick Dangerous* /forum/post/19563237
> 
> 
> I always suspected I lived in a parallel dimension. Now I am sure of it.



Here you go.
http://www.tru3d.com/products/view_p...20IR%20Emitter


----------



## PaulGo

Another Tru3d rip off Mits charges less than $70 for this emitter.


----------



## mardarlene

Quote:

Originally Posted by *tazman76* 
Downloaded the 9.03 update files for my 73833 onto the flash drive, followed the instructions and the tv never turns back on automatically. When I turn it back on manually it still says I'm running v9.01. Any suggestions? Does anyone else have a copy of the files they could post or send me?
If you still need the FW update send me your email address and I can send to you


----------



## sfetaz

I am reaching the end of my rope in trying to understand why I cannot get BTB or WTW information on my 65737. I never get it to display from either my PC or PS3, both hooked up via HDMI to my Denon 1611, to 4x1 monoprice switcher, to Mitusbshi 3d Adapter and finally to TV. I have directly connected my PS3 to my TV and was still unsuccessful, however I believe the 3da-1 adapter might be causing problems because I have tried 4 different pixel formats on my PC and none were able to display BTB or WTW:


----------



## joe gilmore

Thanks Chris I hope you have solved a problem i have,73-838 bought the emitter kit and glasses worked great when first installed di not use for awhile now the unit will not power up and when i play a 3d sample dvd that did play before I get a blue screen and no power to unit it may be what you said the tv is off in the 3d mode if you can shed any light on this I would be grateful,also I have direct tv and could not figure or get help to get there programing on 3d they as well as mits were useless people to talk to any help thank you.


----------



## aPIMPnamedGekko

Does anyone know what the PS3's native output format is?


----------



## pwbaker

May have been covered but could not find.


Have 73833 with kit. Panny 105 hooked right to TV, outputting checker board. Looks great.


Question is...the emiter stays on all the time weather 3d or not. Will this hurt it or wear it out sooner? I have started unplugging it when not 3d. Do I need to?


thanks


----------



## kjroddy

I suspect you're more likely to mechanically wear out the emitter plug or socket by constantly plugging and unplugging it than you are to burn out the emitter by leaving it on.


----------



## walford




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pwbaker* /forum/post/19577361
> 
> 
> May have been covered but could not find.
> 
> 
> Have 73833 with kit. Panny 105 hooked right to TV, outputting checker board. Looks great.
> 
> 
> Question is...the emiter stays on all the time weather 3d or not. Will this hurt it or wear it out sooner? I have started unplugging it when not 3d. Do I need to?
> 
> 
> thanks



Is your emitter connected direcly to your TV or to your adapter?


----------



## cspaula

I have a question. I have a 73736 and want to buy the 3d starter kit. I have dish network and I do not have a ps3 or a 3d blue-ray player. To be able to view 3d content, am I correct in that i would have to buy: the starter kit, a new 3d blu-ray player (or 3d capable gaming system) and upgrade my dish receiver (well at least according to dish network). I want my husband to have to have 3d for Christmas but it would seem like I have to purchase many new items, all when there seems to be very limited 3d movie content available, which would be our primary purpose for 3d. Am I off base with this? Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cspaula* /forum/post/19579276
> 
> 
> [snip] ...I want my husband to have to have 3d for Christmas ...[snip]



You madam, are a wonderful wife.










There are more than a few options, but the easiest route for you in my opinion is to upgrade your dish receiver, put the Starter Pack under the tree, and let your husband decide after Christmas whether he wants a PS3 or a stand-alone 3DBluray player.


He can get his immediate fix with Dish TV while there is plenty of time for him to decide which player to get, as you are right about the dearth of movie content, but that will slowly change after Christmas.

.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19578424
> 
> 
> Is your emitter connected direcly to your TV or to your adapter?



The red light on the emitter stays on regardless of how it is connected until 3D mode is turned off (or turned on then turned off if not yet on) in the TV menu. The adapter just does a passthrough on the emitter power. However, the emitter is not firing as the glasses do not sync until 3D mode is turned on in the TV menu. It is just receiving power which turns on the red light. I consider it a non-issue.


----------



## Nick Dangerous

Quote:

Originally Posted by *DenisG* 
Here you go.
http://www.tru3d.com/products/view_p...20IR%20Emitter
Thanks D. Went ahead and bought it... results to come.


----------



## cspaula

Thank you very much. The starter pack it is!


----------



## rsnyder005

Just ordered a Mits 65638 and was wondering if I will need the adapter for 3D or will be ok with a firmware upgrade?thanks


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rsnyder005* /forum/post/19581269
> 
> 
> Just ordered a Mits 65638 and was wondering if I will need the adapter for 3D or will be ok with a firmware upgrade?thanks


 http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/3Dupgrade.html 



> Quote:
> *Starting November 16, 2010, Mitsubishi Digital Electronics America, Inc. (MDEA) will make available a 3D software upgrade for existing customers of the following models:*
> 
> 
> WD-60738, WD-65738, WD-73738, WD-82738, WD-65838, WD-73838, WD-82838
> 
> 
> No other models are included in this software upgrade.


----------



## reswan01




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tofana10am* /forum/post/19529166
> 
> 
> My family and I just finished watching Disney's A Christmas Carol last night on our Mits 65C9. While the bright scenes were rendered very well, the darker scens (and believe me there are a lot) were crushed beyond belief. it ended up being a merky mess. Anybody have any solution for the 3DA-1's black crush issue? This is really a dismal failure from Mitsubishi. No matter how many different combinations I try with the Full/Limited Color and SuperBright White settings on the PS3, the dark scenes just look miserable. I've got the PS3 routed around the 3DA-1 for 2D content as the black crush issue is well known, but for this type of movie, it really ruied the experience. Any ideas?



I have found that if I change the dvd/bd output on the ps3 from ycc to rgb, the black crush is gone. I have also done this with my dcx3400 cable box (under additional hdmi settings) and the problem is solved. It seems like the converter box doesn't handle the ycc color space correctly and crushes the blacks. It seems to be fine with RGB.


----------



## kblee




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick Dangerous* /forum/post/19562809
> 
> 
> Well then... you must have been one of the lucky ones, because the second journey through the busy signal queue at Mitsu parts yielded the same result: "We don't sell the emitter. 3D parts are only available via the finished kits such as the 3DA-1000 from Amazon." Which, of course, is not a viable option at this point.
> 
> 
> Seems the options have dwindled a bit: Either snag a second-hand emitter, shell out $120 for the compatible version listed above, wait for U3DH's version next month (or two) and hope the price is more reasonable, or return the glasses now and pay a 20% restocking fee.
> 
> 
> (now contemplating which option would be the most "entertaining" at this point...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )



I was one of the "lucky ones" who was able to get 2 starter packs. The second one arrived a few weeks ago and I opened it up and removed the shutter glasses and the Disney disc. So - everything else (emitter, adapter, cable, etc.) is of no use to me at this point. I was just gonna leave them boxed up and ensure that I had a spare if the ones that I have ever fail. But, if anyone is interested in them, please send me a PM.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *reswan01* /forum/post/19582998
> 
> 
> I have found that if I change the dvd/bd output on the ps3 from ycc to rgb, the black crush is gone. I have also done this with my dcx3400 cable box (under additional hdmi settings) and the problem is solved. It seems like the converter box doesn't handle the ycc color space correctly and crushes the blacks. It seems to be fine with RGB.



Glad you got it figured out. Not to undermine your discovery, but tofana10am and others had already figured this out by the next day.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tofana10am* /forum/post/19532559
> 
> 
> RGB Output setting on the PS3 did the trick. I am now able to see the blacker than black patterns on the DVE disc. I've also tweaked the settings under the Advanced Picture setting (Decreasing to 1.8 and enabling the Deep Field setting). I'm going to continue adjusting the colors, but it's already a night and day difference. Thanks guys.


----------



## dhvsfan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *cspaula* /forum/post/19579276
> 
> 
> I have a question. I have a 73736 and want to buy the 3d starter kit. I have dish network and I do not have a ps3 or a 3d blue-ray player. To be able to view 3d content, am I correct in that i would have to buy: the starter kit, a new 3d blu-ray player (or 3d capable gaming system) and upgrade my dish receiver (well at least according to dish network). I want my husband to have to have 3d for Christmas but it would seem like I have to purchase many new items, all when there seems to be very limited 3d movie content available, which would be our primary purpose for 3d. Am I off base with this? Any help would be greatly appreciated.





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Augerhandle* /forum/post/19579357
> 
> 
> You madam, are a wonderful wife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are more than a few options, but the easiest route for you in my opinion is to upgrade your dish receiver, put the Starter Pack under the tree, and let your husband decide after Christmas whether he wants a PS3 or a stand-alone 3DBluray player.
> 
> 
> He can get his immediate fix with Dish TV while there is plenty of time for him to decide which player to get, as you are right about the dearth of movie content, but that will slowly change after Christmas.
> 
> .



I have to second that "wonderful wife" statement. My wife is gung-ho on 3D and I bought a Laservue. Currently, saving my pennies to buy the Oppo BDP-93 when I can afford it and its for sale


I didn't know that Dish provided 3D programming. When did that start? I switched to Direct TV for the 3 available 3D channels.


cspaula, FYI - IF you have a surround sound system, you will either have to buy a new A/V processor to handle HDMI 1.4a (the 3D standard) >> OR


----------



## Stew4msu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dhvsfan* /forum/post/19584873
> 
> 
> Currently, saving my pennies to buy the Oppo BDP-93 when I can afford it and *its for sale*



Oppo's never go on sale.


----------



## dhvsfan

You mis-interpreted for sale. Not as in reduced price but available for purchase (for sale) with RELEASE FIRMWARE


----------



## Stew4msu

Ah, gotcha.


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dhvsfan* /forum/post/19584873
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't know that Dish provided 3D programming. When did that start?



Dish released a software update for the 922 to enable 3D. Only 3D VOD right now, Cats and Dogs 3D. For $7.99. No word on other receivers getting the 3D treatment. But finally, Dish Is onboard with 3D.


----------



## old corps

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* 
Dish released a software update for the 922 to enable 3D. Only 3D VOD right now, Cats and Dogs 3D. For $7.99. No word on other receivers getting the 3D treatment. But finally, Dish Is onboard with 3D.
Partly onboard.







They better offer it soon on other VIP receivers (I have a 622 & 722) or I may be jumping ship after 13 years to D*










Ed


----------



## Hyabusha

Quote:

Originally Posted by *old corps* 
Partly onboard.







They better offer it soon on other VIP receivers (I have a 622 & 722) or I may be jumping ship after 13 years to D*










Ed
I'd say In January, during CES. Big updates for Dish 3D. Maybe.


----------



## djr357

Hello all, I own a WD-73C9 and was wondering if it the latest firmware is available for this model? Thanks!


----------



## Stew4msu

No.


----------



## old corps




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/19589448
> 
> 
> I'd say In January, during CES. Big updates for Dish 3D. Maybe.



Sure hope so! Do you by chance have a 922? If so, whattaya think about it? Has it meant your expectations? Seems like a lot of folks on satguys have problems with missed recordings and slinging. I had a 921 (1st HDDVR from Dish) and it was one buggy piece of equipment. Don't ask me what I paid for it either.........














It DOES make a great door stop though.














.


Ed


----------



## TheCatcher

I'm sorry if this has been asked before... I read about 12 pages of posts and decided it might be faster if I just asked the question directly...


I have a WD-73833 with firmware V9.01. I view my 3D content from my HTPC using NVidia 3D Vision (and PowerDVD using an older IR Dongle and older 3D glasses). I am not having any issues viewing 3D content. But I am considering purchasing additional 3D Glasses. I noticed that the DLP-Link glasses are considerably cheaper than the NVidia 3D Glasses. And I would much rather buy glasses that are specific to my TV, than glasses that are specific to the NVidia dongle. I have also been hearing rumors that soon, the NVidia 3D Vision system, may no longer be requiring the emitter dongle.


I am trying to figure out if I can use DLP-Link glasses in my current environment. Or do I need to buy additional hardware to use DLP-Link glasses (like the 3DA1 or 3DC-1000).


Or more to the point... Is my WD-73833, firmware V9.01, currently doing DLP-Link or do I need to buy a Mitsubishi 3D Adapter?


And if my WD-73833 is currently doing DLP-Link, will the DLP-Link glasses be in sync with the NVidia 3D Vision glasses?


And an additional quesiton... What is the difference between the 3DA1 and the 3DC-1000, and why would I choose one over the other?


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *old corps* /forum/post/19591183
> 
> 
> Sure hope so! Do you by chance have a 922? If so, whattaya think about it? Has it meant your expectations? Seems like a lot of folks on satguys have problems with missed recordings and slinging. I had a 921 (1st HDDVR from Dish) and it was one buggy piece of equipment. Don't ask me what I paid for it either.........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It DOES make a great door stop though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> Ed



I love the 922, It's super fast, the GUI looks great, and the Slings works real nice. But... No support for the Google TV, (yet).


I've had no problems with missing recordings.


So I'm glad I have It. And hope for Live 3D channels soon!


----------



## old corps




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/19601767
> 
> 
> I love the 922, It's super fast, the GUI looks great, and the Slings works real nice. But... No support for the Google TV, (yet).
> 
> 
> I've had no problems with missing recordings.
> 
> 
> So I'm glad I have It. And hope for Live 3D channels soon!



Thanks so much for your reply, appreciate it. There are so many negative posts on satguys re. messed up timers and slinging problems they pretty much scared me off. Overall, I've been pretty happy with Dish. Like the equipment--the 622 & 722 have been excellent and they get used more than I'd like to admit. Have really been considering D* though 'cause of the 3D thing........

Couple of other questions if you don't mind--How long have you had it and do you record quite a bit? Also, do you have/use an OTA module? My locals are all in HD via Dish but I still record quite a bit OTA. Thanks in advance for your input!


Ed


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *old corps* /forum/post/19601867
> 
> 
> Couple of other questions if you don't mind--How long have you had it and do you record quite a bit? Also, do you have/use an OTA module? My locals are all in HD via Dish but I still record quite a bit OTA. Thanks in advance for your input!
> 
> 
> Ed



I've had the 922 for about 3 months now, and I record everyday, with multiple timers. I do have an OTA module, I also rec some shows on It with no probs either.


----------



## old corps




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheCatcher* /forum/post/19601152
> 
> 
> I'm sorry if this has been asked before... I read about 12 pages of posts and decided it might be faster if I just asked the question directly...
> 
> 
> I have a WD-73833 with firmware V9.01. I view my 3D content from my HTPC using NVidia 3D Vision (and PowerDVD using an older IR Dongle and older 3D glasses). I am not having any issues viewing 3D content. But I am considering purchasing additional 3D Glasses. I noticed that the DLP-Link glasses are considerably cheaper than the NVidia 3D Glasses. And I would much rather buy glasses that are specific to my TV, than glasses that are specific to the NVidia dongle. I have also been hearing rumors that soon, the NVidia 3D Vision system, may no longer be requiring the emitter dongle.
> 
> 
> I am trying to figure out if I can use DLP-Link glasses in my current environment. Or do I need to buy additional hardware to use DLP-Link glasses (like the 3DA1 or 3DC-1000).
> 
> 
> Or more to the point... Is my WD-73833, firmware V9.01, currently doing DLP-Link or do I need to buy a Mitsubishi 3D Adapter?
> 
> 
> And if my WD-73833 is currently doing DLP-Link, will the DLP-Link glasses be in sync with the NVidia 3D Vision glasses?
> 
> 
> And an additional quesiton... What is the difference between the 3DA1 and the 3DC-1000, and why would I choose one over the other?



You need the adapter to convert the 3D to checkerboard mode unless you have equipment that can do that (Panasonic bdt100/300 or 350). You can then use DLP glasses-no emitter required. The 3DA1 is just the adapter. The 3DC-1000 includes the adapter, 2 pair of glasses (the other type, ggrrrr-old fart can't remember the name of 'em, lol







), the emitter for those glasses, a remote and a disc with 3D trailers. Hope this helps.


Ed


----------



## old corps




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Hyabusha* /forum/post/19601898
> 
> 
> I've had the 922 for about 3 months now, and I record everyday, with multiple timers. I do have an OTA module, I also rec some shows on It with no probs either.



Thank you, my friend! I may have to give Dish a call--gotta think about it.










BTW, Do you have a Hyabusha? I've got 2 Zuks in the stable but no rockets like that! A pristine '82 GS850L and a 2000 LC1500 'truder.


Ed


----------



## Hyabusha




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *old corps* /forum/post/19601952
> 
> 
> Thank you, my friend! I may have to give Dish a call--gotta think about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, Do you have a Hyabusha? I've got 2 Zuks in the stable but no rockets like that! A pristine '82 GS850L and a 2000 LC1500 'truder.
> 
> 
> Ed



Your welcome! Dish Is a great service, and I am very happy with them!


And no bikes, my name Is based off a ninja video game.










Good luck!


----------



## Nick Dangerous




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19566925
> 
> 
> I know you can't sync them yet, but do you see the polarization rainbows when looking at a lightly colored scene when wearing these glasses? If you don't see them with a level head, do you see them with your head tilted 45 degrees? thanks.



U3DH & IO Glasses = no rainbows at level

Optomas = rainbows at level, disappear at 45 degrees


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick Dangerous* /forum/post/19603859
> 
> 
> U3DH & IO Glasses = no rainbows at level
> 
> Optomas = rainbows at level, disappear at 45 degrees



Excellent, thanks. Now anxious to hear, once you get them synced up, if the U3DH glasses produce pure blacks by blocking out the DLP flash. If they do, then they would be a great choice, especially for the money.


Tried the x103s for myself and no rainbows when level, but as others warned, the DLP Link flash is only partially blocked and results in horrible flickering.


----------



## Nick Dangerous




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Nick Dangerous* /forum/post/19558017
> 
> 
> Thanks Ed! Review forthcoming. I'll post it in a new thread after I'm done with the evaluation.



Actually, forget the new thread... it's going here.


My experience jibes with conventional wisdom at AVS: _For 2009 and earlier Mitsubishi sets, DLP Link glasses are a must_. Forget the emitter-based ones... _none of them_ will block the greenish link haze which negates any other advantages they may have.


IO Glasses (proprietary emitter, works in Reverse mode) = $110 for two glasses and matching emitter. Viewing area is small but gets the job done. The real dealbreaker is the lack of comfort. An atrocious, nose-pinching horror. Not recommended. Another ding: The emitter is incompatible with other glasses.


U3DH Glasses (Mitsubishi emitter, works in Standard mode) = $220 for two glasses and matching emitter. Much wider viewing area, slightly improved imaging, and vastly improved comfort. However, the bridge lacks support and will likely slide down your nose if placed in front of eyeglasses. Might be fixable with some kind of stick-on bridge support. Overall quite a deal if you need 3-4 (or more) pair, as they are surprisingly good quality and only $50 each in quantity.


Optoma ZD101 Glasses (no emitter required, works in Reverse mode) = $180 for two glasses. Wide viewing area like the U3DH, which is nice. A bit heavier up front which can be tiring, but this is offset by a no-slip fit with configurable nose pieces. Picture quality, color fidelity, and contrast levels are vastly improved over the two above, due to the complete elimination of the synchronization haze. I'm talking a huuuge night and day difference here. No contest. These rule.


The only issues I could discern with the Optomas were image stability and the "rainbow effect". Perhaps my eyes were getting tired of adjusting back and forth between different sets of glasses, but I swear I felt just the tiniest bit disoriented with the Optomas versus the other ones. Most likely it is because the images are simply that much better, and thus, more engaging. Whoa vertigo! The "rainbow effect" is more of a minor quirk. Yes, it is noticeable on lighter-hued background imagery, but hardly a dealbreaker. Overall, there really isn't much to debate for 2007-2009 Mitsubishi DLP TV owners: Get the Optomas.


All use standard CR 2032 batteries. The IO Glasses and Optomas each use a pair of batteries, whereas the U3DH requires only one.


I haven't demoed the Mitsubishi shutter glasses included in the Starter Kit, but since they use an emitter I imagine there must be thousands of 2007-2009 Mitsubishi DLP TV owners who aren't aware of what they are missing. Yikes. Of course, going forward, DLP Link won't be such an issue since Mitsubishi 2010 owners CAN disable it... in which case I'd wager the U3DH glasses would put up one helluva fight for the money.


Z'at cover it?


P.S. If anyone wants two pairs of the U3DH glasses for $90 shipped, let me know. I'm also selling the Mitsubishi emitter for $90 since I probably can't return it.


----------



## Paul.R.S

Thanks, Mr. Dangerous







for not only your comments but for not starting another thread for them.


I'd like to see a similar comparative critique of DLP Link glasses--perhaps the Optomas, the Xpands and the ViewSonics. Has a consensus been reached for 2010 sets as to whether IR or DLP link is the best reconciliation of PQ, comfort and cost? If so, which pair? (I'd surmise this has been covered and I've just missed it perhaps here or in the 2010 Mitsu owners' thread.)


----------



## TheCatcher

Quote:

Originally Posted by *old corps* 
You need the adapter to convert the 3D to checkerboard mode unless you have equipment that can do that (Panasonic bdt100/300 or 350). You can then use DLP glasses-no emitter required. The 3DA1 is just the adapter. The 3DC-1000 includes the adapter, 2 pair of glasses (the other type, ggrrrr-old fart can't remember the name of 'em, lol







), the emitter for those glasses, a remote and a disc with 3D trailers. Hope this helps.


Ed
Thanks Ed!


Since my HTPC is doing ok at converting 3D media to the checkerboard pattern, I don't have any immediate need for the 3DA1 or 3DC-1000 kit. It is nice to know the DLP Link glasses are compatible with my WD-73833 without the Mitsubishi HDMI 1.4 adapters.


The only other question still remaining is will the DLP Link glasses operate in sync with the NVidia 3D Vision glasses. Or will I need to buy one additional pair of DLP Link glasses to replace the NVidia 3D Vision glasses.


----------



## walford

The DLP-Link glases opeate in reverse eye synd mode since they were origianly designed for PJs.

The IR emitter and glases such as the Nivida operate in normal eye sync mode so they normally cannot be mixed. The viewsonic DLP-Link glasses have a built in eye sync reversal switch so they can be mixed with the IR emitters and glases such as the Nvidia ones.


----------



## jimenezr34

I have been reading so much about this I am more confused then when I started. I bought a 73838 two months and I am trying to figure out what exactly I need for 3D. I know I need a new receiver because my current Denon does not have pass through for 3D (no 1.4a HDMI). So I am going to buy a Pioneer Elite SC-35 and I am going to run everything through that with 1.4a HDMI cables. That part I am pretty clear on. But as far as the TV goes I need to...


1. Do a software update?

2. Get an emitter if I am not going to use DLP glasses?

3. I do not need to get the starter kit or get the adapter if I do the upgrade, right? But I need an emitter which you can only get in the starter kit?

4. Which glasses are best? I was looking at the new xpand 103 glasses?


Thanks


----------



## nicth

Hello!


I have a Mitsubishi WD 60737, a Mitsubishi Converter Starter Kit and my PC runs the EVGA Nvidia Geforce GTX 260 graphics card. I don't want to purchase the whole Nvidia Vision Kit unless it is absolutely necessary. Does anybody know if there is any way to play 3D PC games without the Nvidia glasses? I have heard things about the IZ3D driver. Will it work?


Thanks!


----------



## advocate2

Are they compatible?


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *advocate2* /forum/post/19610932
> 
> 
> Are they compatible?


 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post19611211


----------



## TheCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nicth* /forum/post/19609546
> 
> 
> Hello!
> 
> 
> I have a Mitsubishi WD 60737, a Mitsubishi Converter Starter Kit and my PC runs the EVGA Nvidia Geforce GTX 260 graphics card. I don't want to purchase the whole Nvidia Vision Kit unless it is absolutely necessary. Does anybody know if there is any way to play 3D PC games without the Nvidia glasses? I have heard things about the IZ3D driver. Will it work?
> 
> 
> Thanks!



There are other 3D drivers for the PC. But I haven't found any of that support as many games as the NVidia drivers.


NVidia is about to release 3DTV Play. Their pre-release web site lists that it will require the NVidia 3D Vision kit but it won't use the NVidia 3D Vision Glasses. Instead it will use your TV's 3D Glasses.


There are lots of rumors associated with 3DTV Play. I have read...


... that they might be considering releasing a version that doesn't require the NVidia 3D Vision kit.


...that it will be free for people that have the NVidia 3D Vision kit.


... and that (like most software), it has already missed a couple of expected release dates.


The only think I know for sure, is that 3DTV Play has a page on the NVidia web site, and says it will work with HDMI 1.4 TVs, using the TVs glasses.


Though they don't list Mitsubishis in their supported TV list, I suspect it will work with the Mitsubishi Starter Kit's glasses (since it support HDMI 1.4)... But you might need the NVidia (Hardware Piracy Protection) IR Dongle (even though it won't be used for IR)...


----------



## TheCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19608771
> 
> 
> The DLP-Link glases opeate in reverse eye synd mode since they were origianly designed for PJs.
> 
> The IR emitter and glases such as the Nivida operate in normal eye sync mode so they normally cannot be mixed. The viewsonic DLP-Link glasses have a built in eye sync reversal switch so they can be mixed with the IR emitters and glases such as the Nvidia ones.



Thanks, that will save me from an expensive mistake... I am debating between buying 3 pairs of DLP-Link glasses. Or making a Pic Chip adapter to simultaneously drive several of my old wired 3D glasses along with the NVidia Dongle.


I found a site with the timing specs, so I should be able to keep both eyes, of the old 3d glasses, turned off during the DLP Link flashes.


Having wireless 3D glasses is a very attractive solution. They are a lot hardier than wired 3D glasses...


----------



## pistonbrokeagain

Been on this forum a while - helped me get up and running with home 3D - great Forum..


Long story short, finally gave up on the switches, TV input changes and audio via digital co-ax, and downgraded my excellent 3-year old Denon 3808ci this week, for an AVR-591 (HDMI 1.4 compliant). Anyone need a 3808ci







)


Only 2D - 3D change required now is turn on 3D on Mits TV (73833), and audio as good as it should be for any input (only have 5+sub speakers anyway).


Since this thread is about the 3DC-1000, i'd say it does what it was intended to do, IE give me 3D on a 3-year old TV and pass through all other formats. The 2007 TV has been the best piece of home entertainment i have bought and still puts out a fantastic picture. Nice job Mits.


Of course being an early adopter, teething pains had to occurr, V9.03 firmware for the TV eventually fixed the big "Blue Screen" issue - and thanks for everyone's help with that on this forum.


What did i lose with the Denon 3808 to 591 "downgrade" ? Ethernet capability (streaming music, internet radio and firmware upgrades), no big deal for my requirements at least and a nice GUI setup menu (can live with that). 300 bucks for the HDMI 1.4 compliant reciever is not the end of the world either.


Good luck to you all with your quests for home 3D - it's worth the effort in my opinion (and motorsorm on PS3 in 3D is damned good)


My Setup (notice some very old components in here - the wife knows how to operate them, so they stay) :0)


Mitsubishi 3DC-1000 Starter Kit

Mitsubishi WD-73833 Diamond Series TV (2007)

Denon AVR-591

Pioneer DV-400V (HDMI Upscaler)

Pioneer HTD-540 (CD Muliplayer - RCA Audio only)

Tripp Lite HT-1210 Power Conditioner

Slinbox Pro HD (to watch TV on PC in Garage smoking zone !)

DirecTV HR-24

PS3 (Free Internet upgraded for 3D Blu-Ray and 3D Gaming - like it)


----------



## hoddy4

ESPN 3D on Time Warner in the Wilmington NC area seems to be transmitted in a top/bottom format. It surprised me a little since this is the lowest resolution 3D. To get it, I needed the SA/Cisco 8640 box to replace my old 8300.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pistonbrokeagain* /forum/post/19618425
> 
> 
> Been on this forum a while - helped me get up and running with home 3D - great Forum..
> 
> 
> Long story short, finally gave up on the switches, TV input changes and audio via digital co-ax, and downgraded my excellent 3-year old Denon 3808ci this week, for an AVR-591 (HDMI 1.4 compliant). Anyone need a 3808ci
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> Only 2D - 3D change required now is turn on 3D on Mits TV (73833), and audio as good as it should be for any input (only have 5+sub speakers anyway).
> 
> 
> Since this thread is about the 3DC-1000, i'd say it does what it was intended to do, IE give me 3D on a 3-year old TV and pass through all other formats. The 2007 TV has been the best piece of home entertainment i have bought and still puts out a fantastic picture. Nice job Mits.
> 
> 
> Of course being an early adopter, teething pains had to occurr, V9.03 firmware for the TV eventually fixed the big "Blue Screen" issue - and thanks for everyone's help with that on this forum.
> 
> 
> What did i lose with the Denon 3808 to 591 "downgrade" ? Ethernet capability (streaming music, internet radio and firmware upgrades), no big deal for my requirements at least and a nice GUI setup menu (can live with that). 300 bucks for the HDMI 1.4 compliant reciever is not the end of the world either.
> 
> 
> Good luck to you all with your quests for home 3D - it's worth the effort in my opinion (and motorsorm on PS3 in 3D is damned good)
> 
> 
> My Setup (notice some very old components in here - the wife knows how to operate them, so they stay) :0)
> 
> 
> Mitsubishi 3DC-1000 Starter Kit
> 
> Mitsubishi WD-73833 Diamond Series TV (2007)
> 
> Denon AVR-591
> 
> Pioneer DV-400V (HDMI Upscaler)
> 
> Pioneer HTD-540 (CD Muliplayer - RCA Audio only)
> 
> Tripp Lite HT-1210 Power Conditioner
> 
> Slinbox Pro HD (to watch TV on PC in Garage smoking zone !)
> 
> DirecTV HR-24
> 
> PS3 (Free Internet upgraded for 3D Blu-Ray and 3D Gaming - like it)



Not sure why you felt you needed a downgrade in your AVR - I have the 3808 and have no issues and have lossless audio. I use my PS3 (fat one) for 3D gaming w/HD audio, bought a Sammy 3D BD player with component audio so I have HD audio (and 7.1) to my 3808 and 3D to my 73835. I posted earlier the switch/splitter I use in my set-up (actually have 2 splitters due to the number of items I have connected to my AVR/TV).


----------



## pistonbrokeagain




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19621896
> 
> 
> Not sure why you felt you needed a downgrade in your AVR - I have the 3808 and have no issues and have lossless audio. I use my PS3 (fat one) for 3D gaming w/HD audio, bought a Sammy 3D BD player with component audio so I have HD audio (and 7.1) to my 3808 and 3D to my 73835. I posted earlier the switch/splitter I use in my set-up (actually have 2 splitters due to the number of items I have connected to my AVR/TV).



Thanks Wryker, i too have the older fat PS3, how did you get HD audio? with an optical input from the TV to the 3808, or does your Samsung BD player have twin outputs ?


My issue with the ViewHD 4 port splitter was a consistent TV screen on/off when switching between 2D and 3D. Additionally the audio would "pop" very loud multiple times as it tried to do the transition, often taking a few minutes into watching whatever source until it went away. As it is, less wires, devices and remotes and reasonably seamless swap now with the 591 with proper audio on all inputs, seems a whole lot easier to me for a few hundred bucks. Just gotta find a buyer for the 3808 but maybe i'll wire my garage (drinking and smoking lounge) with 7.1 using it ! Thanks for input.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pistonbrokeagain* /forum/post/19623448
> 
> 
> Thanks Wryker, i too have the older fat PS3, how did you get HD audio? with an optical input from the TV to the 3808, or does your Samsung BD player have twin outputs ?
> 
> 
> My issue with the ViewHD 4 port splitter was a consistent TV screen on/off when switching between 2D and 3D. Additionally the audio would "pop" very loud multiple times as it tried to do the transition, often taking a few minutes into watching whatever source until it went away. As it is, less wires, devices and remotes and reasonably seamless swap now with the 591 with proper audio on all inputs, seems a whole lot easier to me for a few hundred bucks. Just gotta find a buyer for the 3808 but maybe i'll wire my garage (drinking and smoking lounge) with 7.1 using it ! Thanks for input.



Search this thread for my posts and you'll see how I set my system up.

The 3D Sammy has HDMI out and component - so I use the HDMI for video and the component (lossless audio) to the AVR.

I've posted a few times on this thread including the switcher/splitter I use. The PS3 goes to the splitter/switcher and from that unit I have one HDMI out to the AVR and the other HDMI out to the 3D adapter.


----------



## pwbaker

Quick question. 3D working with panny 105 direct to tv. Wanted to try DTV through the adapter after wife goes to bed tonight.


So I plugged int the adapter (without hooking up HDMI's) and no power light. Does it take HDMI hooked up for it to come on?


Just curious.......


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pwbaker* /forum/post/19631892
> 
> 
> Quick question. 3D working with panny 105 direct to tv. Wanted to try DTV through the adapter after wife goes to bed tonight.
> 
> 
> So I plugged int the adapter (without hooking up HDMI's) and no power light. Does it take HDMI hooked up for it to come on?
> 
> 
> Just curious.......



yes


----------



## pwbaker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Augerhandle* /forum/post/19632087
> 
> 
> yes



Appreciate it..............


----------



## hoddy4

I have had 3 pair of Viewsonic DLP Link 3D glasses. They have all cracked along the sidepiece behind the ear within a couple of weeks. Viewsonic does not consider this a warranty item.


----------



## g35fan

Mitsu TV Model # WD-60C9 + 3DC-1000 adapter + xbox 360


Love the 3D when playing Black OPs!


The problem I've run into however is that almost everytime I play there is a flicker and the screen goes blue or green and then goes back to normal. This process takes about 5 seconds. Very annoying. Happens very randomly. Very annoying as it always comes back on and i'm dead!! Haha...Any suggestions?


I've tried:

Turning everything off and on.

Wiggling HDMI and power cables making sure they are secure

Tried new HDMI cables from Xbox to Adapter and from Adapter to TV

This has been going on since I've gotten the Adapter about 1 month ago



Thanks for any suggestions!!


----------



## unixrasta

I need help getting the 9.03 update!

I have a 2007 WD73833 with firmware level 9.00.

I just received my 3DC-1000 3D adapter and installed it using HDMI 1.4 cables.

I am using a directly connected PS3 with firmware level 3.55, the latest as of today.

When I attempt to view the PS3 on an HDMI input labeled "Game", all I get is a solid blue screen, nothing else.

I downloaded the 9.03 firmware update that was posted by user pistonbrokeagain on the box.net site and put it on a FAT32 formatted USB drive.

The directory structure is very different than described.

The Mits TV WDxx833 subdirectory is empty.

There is also a main directory called __MACOSX.

When I plug in my 73833 the Timer light flashes for about 20 seconds then stops.

The firmware does not get updated from V9.00.

I tried the links that user zapix posted, but the 9.03 zip file has been deleted.

I called Mitsubishi "customer support" and they claimed that they were shipping me the firmware update.

I really don't want to wait to see if/when I receive it.

Can anybody PLEASE upload the 9.03 firmware update again?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## yellowssm

ok Im a noob here and need some help. Here is the equipment I have...


Mitsubishi wd-73c9

mitsubishi 3d starter kit

pioneer vsx-1120

ps3


I cannot get the 3d to play sound through the receiver when trying to watch a movie on the ps3? I can get sound from the receiver when watching a regular movie on the ps3 and cable box but not 3d? Guidance please?


----------



## old corps




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *g35fan* /forum/post/19643102
> 
> 
> Mitsu TV Model # WD-60C9 + 3DC-1000 adapter + xbox 360
> 
> 
> Love the 3D when playing Black OPs!
> 
> 
> The problem I've run into however is that almost everytime I play there is a flicker and the screen goes blue or green and then goes back to normal. This process takes about 5 seconds. Very annoying. Happens very randomly. Very annoying as it always comes back on and i'm dead!! Haha...Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> I've tried:
> 
> Turning everything off and on.
> 
> Wiggling HDMI and power cables making sure they are secure
> 
> Tried new HDMI cables from Xbox to Adapter and from Adapter to TV
> 
> This has been going on since I've gotten the Adapter about 1 month ago
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for any suggestions!!



This will sound silly but........


Dig out your duct tape (the handymans' secret weapon). Cut a very small( tiny)piece of it off the roll and put it on the sensor of your glasses--located front/center. Obscure (fancy word for cover up







) about 2/3 of the sensor. Problem solved. At least it solved it for me with the Mitz and Ultraclear glasses.


Yer welcome!


Ed


BTW, black duct tape is more cosmetically pleasing, lol.


----------



## pistonbrokeagain

Unixrasta - i've updated the box.net file with the 9.03 update in Zip format (the one that i believe Steven added there did not work for me, so i've deleted that one). Steven also added install notes at this web address

http://goo.gl/piO2X 


Try downloading the wd73833 zip file that is now on Box.net (don't use the linked file in his notes), then follow his notes and see if it works. All the files needed ARE in there..


----------



## bkerrpdx

nu b here...... so have dove in and really didnt expect to have this many issues with all of this. Here is what I have


PS3 / HR23-700


going to


Pioneer VSX1020k 3d pass through\\


to 3dc1000 adapter


to WD73c10


I can get a 3d movie ( just got Despicable Me ) and games playing.... but inconsistently with some troubleshooting to get to that point.


At times.... when switching to 3d or even just changing the channel on the DVR... the screen will go all white ( with some of the picture showing through in blocks ) or go completely negative Green. After changing the channel or switching back and forth on the input from the AVR.... I can eventually get the picture as desired ( but then it leaves 2 white tiny pixels at the top ). Its very frustrating and odd. Its like the equipment is having problems processing the signal at times and gets messed up.


Sorry.... this is not that easy to explain.... just wondering if this looks familiar to everyone?


Overall.... great experience once i get past the kicking the TV phase ( feels like I'm the Fonz to get it to work ).


----------



## unixrasta




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pistonbrokeagain* /forum/post/19649781
> 
> 
> Unixrasta - i've updated the box.net file with the 9.03 update in Zip format (the one that i believe Steven added there did not work for me, so i've deleted that one). Steven also added install notes at this web address....
> 
> 
> Try downloading the wd73833 zip file that is now on Box.net (don't use the linked file in his notes), then follow his notes and see if it works. All the files needed ARE in there..



Piston, thanks so much for the 9.03 firmware.

This did the trick. As soon as I copied the code onto my USB drive,

put it in the USB port on the WD73833 and plugged it back in,

the new firmware loaded and the television powered itself back up.

The Menu button shows V9.03 for the firmware level.

No more blue screen when I switch to the HDMI3 Game input,

and my PS3 is showing 3D as expected.


I do now have 2 issues that I doubt can be resolved:


1) With the Game setting on my HDMI3/PS3 port, the picture is washed out.

2) With the 3D/FX Gaming option set to On, the picture has a bluish tint.


I have seen references to these 2 problems in other posts, but no resolution so far.


Thanks again for the firmware.


----------



## worm03

hey i have a 73" mitsubishi and i have the whole 3d set up it works great and i love it but i would like to invest in getting some more glasses. the tv is new i bought it on black friday...


1. will any pair of glasses work for any tv? or do i need to have a certain brand?


2. will the avatar 3d panasonic pack will those glasses work for the dlp tv? cause i would really like that movie and i could use the extra glasses does anyone know?


----------



## Justin-Dawson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *worm03* /forum/post/19662519
> 
> 
> hey i have a 73" mitsubishi and i have the whole 3d set up it works great and i love it but i would like to invest in getting some more glasses. the tv is new i bought it on black friday...
> 
> 
> 1. will any pair of glasses work for any tv? or do i need to have a certain brand?
> 
> 
> 2. will the avatar 3d panasonic pack will those glasses work for the dlp tv? cause i would really like that movie and i could use the extra glasses does anyone know?



No.


----------



## DLopatin

Hi everyone!


Need help please with getting my Comcast set-top box to work properly with the Mitsubishi 3DC-1000 I just got:


When I run Comcast box -> 3DC-1000 -> Mitsubishi Laservue (2D & 3D works!)

When I run Comcast box -> Onkyo TX-NR708 -> Mitsubishi Laservue (2D works!)


My problem happens when I try the following:

Comcast box -> Onkyo TX-NR708 -> 3DC-1000 -> Mitsubishi Laservue (doesn't work!)

What I get I would describe as "clipping". The signal goes on for a second, then off for a second, then on for a second, then off...


I am using HDMI 1.4 cables from Monoprice, and the Onkyo TX-NR708 which is 1.4 compliant.


Also, I have been able to run my Panasonic 3D Blu-ray player, WD Live Media player, and PS3 first into the Onkyo and then into the 3DC-1000 then into the Mitsubishi laser view with no problem. All work with 2D and 3D!


So my questions / comments are:


(1) Is the problem with the Comcast that it is passing through MORE THEN one device before it hits the Laservue?


(2) Is the reason for the "clipping" due to a handshake issue or something else? It is was handshaking, would you be able to get any signal at all? I do get a signal, it just goes in and out...


I don't have to run the Comcast box directly into the Onkyo, I could bypass it. (I could run an optical out for audio). But my real issue is that I DO need it (and other source components) to run into the 3DC-1000 so I can watch 3D off my Laservue.


Obviously I would prefer a solution where I could run everything into the Onkyo as it makes everything easier to operate. But if I can't, how do I have two separate HDMIs going into the 3DC-1000? I assume I would need a separate switch. But with a separate switch will I have the same problem I do now with the Comcast signal not being passed through more then one device before going to the Laservue?


Very frustrating! That being said, the 3D on the Laservue is awesome! Just wish I could get it to work with all of my source components without having to rewire every time!


Thank you for any help!!


----------



## NSX1992

My FIOS cable box would also not work through Integra 1.4 and adaptor to 82837. I had to buy a switch and bypass the AVR for FIOS and use optical cable for 5.1 sound to AVR. PS3 and Xbox360 work fine through AVR. I never could find out where the handshake problem was (everyone blames the other).


----------



## pwbaker

Quote:

Originally Posted by *worm03* 
hey i have a 73" mitsubishi and i have the whole 3d set up it works great and i love it but i would like to invest in getting some more glasses. the tv is new i bought it on black friday...


1. will any pair of glasses work for any tv? or do i need to have a certain brand?


2. will the avatar 3d panasonic pack will those glasses work for the dlp tv? cause i would really like that movie and i could use the extra glasses does anyone know?
I have the 73833 and bought the Samsung starter pack with all of the Shrek movies. The glasses work fine and it's 3 movies with a coupon for the fourth.......


----------



## dhvsfan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *worm03* /forum/post/19662519
> 
> 
> hey i have a 73" mitsubishi and i have the whole 3d set up it works great and i love it but i would like to invest in getting some more glasses. the tv is new i bought it on black friday...
> 
> 
> 1. will any pair of glasses work for any tv? or do i need to have a certain brand?
> 
> 
> 2. will the avatar 3d panasonic pack will those glasses work for the dlp tv? cause i would really like that movie and i could use the extra glasses does anyone know?



Justin-Dawson gave you the short answer. Mitsu and Samsung 3D glasses are compatible with each other. The Panasonc 3D glasses only work with Panasonic sets. Coming onto the market are universal 3D glasses that should work with any set.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dhvsfan* /forum/post/19665968
> 
> 
> Justin-Dawson gave you the short answer. Mitsu and Samsung 3D glasses are compatible with each other. The Panasonc 3D glasses only work with Panasonic sets. Coming onto the market are universal 3D glasses that should work with any set.



This has been discussed many times on these threads but with a pre-2010 Mits DLP you might seriously consider DLP Link glasses instead of the Mits kit glasses due to the DLP Link flash issue that causes teal blacks with the Mits/Samsung glasses.


Also, the universal glasses (x103 specifically) are worse than the Mits glasses for pre-2010 Mits sets because the x103 partially blocks the DLP Link flash which results in a very distracting flicker.


The crystaleyes5 are a great choice. I got two of them recently and am very pleased. They resolved all of the issues I was having with the other emitter-based and DLP Link glasses I had tried.


----------



## kjroddy

My free starter kit arrived today (suburban Philadelphia)... two weeks and a day after I received the "approved" email, just under four weeks after I mailed the form in. No shipping email.


Off to the back of the TV...


----------



## briankstan

I've been having a problem with my 3D setup. I think I've narrowed it down to the Mits 3D adapter. Here is what I have.


TV - Mits 65 DLP Projection. (model 65638)

PS3 Slim - using as blueray player

Onkyo A/V receiver with 3D passthrough. (from HTIB model # HC-S5300)

Direct TV satalite box (can't remember the model off hand, but it's only a few months old)


I'm running everything via HDMI cables from each component to the AV receiver, then from the output of the AV going to the input on the Mits 3D adapter, Then out to the TV.


Everything work, but when changing between media or TV formats. I'm having a problem with the colors becoming washed out, usually with a pinkish hue, but sometimes greenish. Sometimes the screen will be blank as well and the TV will display invalid format. This can be fixed by changing inputs, and then switching it back again.


I don't have this issue when I remove the Mits Adapter and output directly from the AV receiver to the TV.


Any ideas? Bad 3D adapter possibly?


----------



## yellowssm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19666119
> 
> 
> This has been discussed many times on these threads but with a pre-2010 Mits DLP you might seriously consider DLP Link glasses instead of the Mits kit glasses due to the DLP Link flash issue that causes teal blacks with the Mits/Samsung glasses.
> 
> 
> Also, the universal glasses (x103 specifically) are worse than the Mits glasses for pre-2010 Mits sets because the x103 partially blocks the DLP Link flash which results in a very distracting flicker.
> 
> 
> The crystaleyes5 are a great choice. I got two of them recently and am very pleased. They resolved all of the issues I was having with the other emitter-based and DLP Link glasses I had tried.



What is the consensus about the DLP Link glasses vs the crystaleyes 5? They both look like they are about $75ish each on amazon but the DLP links are use a battery and the crystaleyes 5 are rechargable.


***EDIT***

Looks like the crystal eyes are a good choice. How much did you get yours for or where is the best place to get them?


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yellowssm* /forum/post/19678678
> 
> 
> What is the consensus about the DLP Link glasses vs the crystaleyes 5? They both look like they are about $75ish each on amazon but the DLP links are use a battery and the crystaleyes 5 are rechargable.
> 
> 
> ***EDIT***
> 
> Looks like the crystal eyes are a good choice. How much did you get yours for or where is the best place to get them?



CE5s are also DLP Link glasses. CE4s use an emitter. In both cases, directly from realD is the only way I know to get them.


On the CE5 thread, some have said they are losing sync so they may not be so great for everyone. Problem is, hard to say why some have the sync issue and others do not.


----------



## yellowssm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19680229
> 
> 
> CE5s are also DLP Link glasses. CE4s use an emitter. In both cases, directly from realD is the only way I know to get them.
> 
> 
> On the CE5 thread, some have said they are losing sync so they may not be so great for everyone. Problem is, hard to say why some have the sync issue and others do not.




Well I have the mitsu glasses now and I think they work fine although I have only watched dispicable me. I havent had the glasses turn off on me or havent seen any rainbow effects (maybe I dont know what a rainbow effect looks like) What should I do or try or what am I looking for exactly with this issues???


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19680229
> 
> 
> CE5s are also DLP Link glasses. CE4s use an emitter. In both cases, directly from realD is the only way I know to get them.
> 
> *On the CE5 thread, some have said they are losing sync* so they may not be so great for everyone. Problem is, hard to say why some have the sync issue and others do not.



Seems to be mostly Samsung LED DLP owners.


----------



## briankstan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bkerrpdx* /forum/post/19652574
> 
> 
> nu b here...... so have dove in and really didnt expect to have this many issues with all of this. Here is what I have
> 
> 
> PS3 / HR23-700
> 
> 
> going to
> 
> 
> Pioneer VSX1020k 3d pass through\\
> 
> 
> to 3dc1000 adapter
> 
> 
> to WD73c10
> 
> 
> I can get a 3d movie ( just got Despicable Me ) and games playing.... but inconsistently with some troubleshooting to get to that point.
> 
> 
> At times.... when switching to 3d or even just changing the channel on the DVR... the screen will go all white ( with some of the picture showing through in blocks ) or go completely negative Green. After changing the channel or switching back and forth on the input from the AVR.... I can eventually get the picture as desired ( but then it leaves 2 white tiny pixels at the top ). Its very frustrating and odd. Its like the equipment is having problems processing the signal at times and gets messed up.
> 
> 
> Sorry.... this is not that easy to explain.... just wondering if this looks familiar to everyone?
> 
> 
> Overall.... great experience once i get past the kicking the TV phase ( feels like I'm the Fonz to get it to work ).




I have this same issue, did you find anything to fix it. I don't have this problem when I remove the adapter, so I think it's the culprit.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yellowssm* /forum/post/19680311
> 
> 
> Well I have the mitsu glasses now and I think they work fine although I have only watched dispicable me. I havent had the glasses turn off on me or havent seen any rainbow effects (maybe I dont know what a rainbow effect looks like) What should I do or try or what am I looking for exactly with this issues???



Mitsu glasses don't have rainbow effects and don't lose sync. However, they do not block the DLP Link flash which cannot be turned off on pre-2010 Mitsu TVs. If you have a 2010 Mitsu TV, set the DLP LInk option to off and then there may no reason to use other glasses.


If you are using a 2009 or earlier Mitsu TV, then with the Mitsu glasses you should be noticing teal blacks due to the DLP Link flash. DLP LInk glasses make that issue go away, but DLP Link glasses may create other issues such as the rainbows and the loss of sync. CE5s take care of the rainbows and the DLP Link flash and at least for some of us there seems to be no sync issues either.


----------



## Jadocs

Why so people always say to turn off DLP link on 2010 TVs when using IR emitter? You can only choose one or the other. So if you select IR there is no DLP link and vise versa. Am I missing something?


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jadocs* /forum/post/19682543
> 
> 
> Why so people always say to turn off DLP link on 2010 TVs when using IR emitter? You can only choose one or the other. So if you select IR there is no DLP link and vise versa. Am I missing something?



I don't have a 2010 set but others have said that DLP Link can be turned on while IR continues to work. In fact, others have tested the x103 on the 2010 sets by turning on DLP Link to see if the x103 would block the flash. It was reported that the x103 synced through IR but only partially blocked the flash and caused bad flickering. The x103 worked fine with DLP Link turned off.


As a side note, I confirmed that the x103 causes bad flickering on pre-2010 sets as well.


----------



## yellowssm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19682518
> 
> 
> Mitsu glasses don't have rainbow effects and don't lose sync. However, they do not block the DLP Link flash which cannot be turned off on pre-2010 Mitsu TVs. If you have a 2010 Mitsu TV, set the DLP LInk option to off and then there may no reason to use other glasses.
> 
> 
> If you are using a 2009 or earlier Mitsu TV, then with the Mitsu glasses you should be noticing teal blacks due to the DLP Link flash. DLP LInk glasses make that issue go away, but DLP Link glasses may create other issues such as the rainbows and the loss of sync. CE5s take care of the rainbows and the DLP Link flash and at least for some of us there seems to be no sync issues either.



I just went through all the tv menus and can't find dlp link flash off? I purchased my 73c9 in august of 2010 from dell but I guess that doesn't mean it's a 2010 model. Maybe I'm missing it?


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *yellowssm* /forum/post/19682587
> 
> 
> I just went through all the tv menus and can't find dlp link flash off? I purchased my 73c9 in august of 2010 from dell but I guess that doesn't mean it's a 2010 model. Maybe I'm missing it?



That's a 2009 model. Notice when you turn 3D mode on that your screen will get this funky teal look to it, especially the black areas of the scene. Put on the Mitsu glasses and the black area will still look teal. DLP Link glasses cause the black area to really appear black just like it appears with 3D mode off. Some people don't seem to mind this issue with the Mitsu glasses. On the other hand, it drives some people crazy.


----------



## bcterp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jadocs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Why so people always say to turn off DLP link on 2010 TVs when using IR emitter? You can only choose one or the other. So if you select IR there is no DLP link and vise versa. Am I missing something?




When dlp link is enabled in the menu of my 73738, the IR emitter still functions and my non dlp link glasses can still sync.


----------



## Jadocs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have a 2010 set but others have said that DLP Link can be turned on while IR continues to work. In fact, others have tested the x103 on the 2010 sets by turning on DLP Link to see if the x103 would block the flash. It was reported that the x103 synced through IR but only partially blocked the flash and caused bad flickering. The x103 worked fine with DLP Link turned off.
> 
> 
> As a side note, I confirmed that the x103 causes bad flickering on pre-2010 sets as well.



The only way I see that happening is if the emitter never really turns off even if DLP link is selected. Come to think of it....I think that's the answer. Here's my theory....with the emitter plugged into the tv the red light is always on even if your watching 2D and 3D is off, so that tells me it is on...I bet that's it. Conversely, DLP link is not always on and has to be selected because you can tell just by looking at how the screen looks.


----------



## Jadocs




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bcterp* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> When dlp link is enabled in the menu of my 73738, the IR emitter still functions.



Thanks for the confirmation. I thought that's what was happening. So what I initially said is correct. If you choose IR Emitter the DLP link will automatically be off on 2010+ TVs.


----------



## yellowssm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19682615
> 
> 
> That's a 2009 model. Notice when you turn 3D mode on that your screen will get this funky teal look to it, especially the black areas of the scene. Put on the Mitsu glasses and the black area will still look teal. DLP Link glasses cause the black area to really appear black just like it appears with 3D mode off. Some people don't seem to mind this issue with the Mitsu glasses. On the other hand, it drives some people crazy.



It doesn't really look teal to me more like the black isn't as dark but I guess that's the problem. Maybe I should get those dLp link glasses next then. Are they really 175 each?


----------



## Jadocs

Had another thought. I wonder how many people experiencing link issues with DLP link glasses are due to having an emitter plugged in?


----------



## jjknatl

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Jadocs* 
The only way I see that happening is if the emitter never really turns off even if DLP link is selected. Come to think of it....I think that's the answer. Here's my theory....with the emitter plugged into the tv the red light is always on even if your watching 2D and 3D is off, so that tells me it is on...I bet that's it. Conversely, DLP link is not always on and has to be selected because you can tell just by looking at how the screen looks.
For my 2009 model the red light stays on when in 2D mode but the IR glasses do not sync. I believe the emitter still gets power in 2D mode which turns on the red light but does not receive a trigger and therefore does not produce the sync signal.


----------



## sfetaz

Hey guys I am selling my 3da-1 adapter if anyone is interested. I would take $70 plus USPS shipping, probably another$5. Comes with ac adapter, emitter cable and HDMI cable. Let me know. (if this is the wrong place to post this I am sorry, please guide me to the best place on these forums to do that.)


----------



## Stew4msu

Quote:

Originally Posted by *sfetaz* 
(if this is the wrong place to post this I am sorry, please guide me to the best place on these forums to do that.)
 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/vbclassified.php


----------



## Jamieb81

I have same issue with except because everything is running through mits. adapter my cable channels non 3D is the problem without the glasses .the picture is washed out. With 3Deverthing is fine.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jamieb81* /forum/post/19683479
> 
> 
> I have same issue with except because everything is running through mits. adapter my cable channels non 3D is the problem without the glasses .the picture is washed out. With 3Deverthing is fine.



Turn off 3D mode in the TV when not watching 3D content.


----------



## Jamieb81

I did have 3D off on the Mits. 73737 , I had direct tv and bd going through hdmi switch to 3D adaptor and when I watched non 3D tv it's really washed out. Took direct tv off the switch ran straight to tv and bd also straight to adapt to tv and working fine except for when j want to watch 3D tv I have to run it back through adaptor .

It's a pain to go back and forth .


----------



## Nels0n2010

Here's my setup and I'll get to my question at the end:

Mits 73737 fed by 1.4HDMI thru Mits 3Dadapter thru 1.4HDMI 1 feed coming from a Denon AVR891 sourced 3D cable signal from COMCAST Pace RNG110, also using a 3DTV emitter with their 3DTV bulletproof E-series shutter glasses x4, also own Xpand 103's x 4


I finally got 3D working with the 3DTV bulletproof shutter glasses beautifully with the 3DTV emitter showing a blinking orange yellow light. So here's my problem, I cannot get the Xpand 103's to work with this setup. Any others experiencing any issues with 3DTV emitter compatibility with Xpand 103's?


----------



## Nels0n2010

Update to my original post:

Here's my setup and I'll get to my question at the end:

Mitsubishi WD73737 fed by 1.4HDMI thru Mits 3Dadapter thru 1.4HDMI 1 feed coming from a Denon AVR891 sourced 3D cable signal from COMCAST PACE RNG110 settop cable-box, also using a 3DTV IR emitter with their 3DTV bulletproof CS-series shutter glasses, also own Xpand 103's


I finally got 3D working with the 3DTV bulletproof shutter glasses beautifully with the 3DTV emitter showing a blinking orange yellow light. So here's my problem, I cannot get the Xpand 103's to work with this setup. Any others experiencing any issues with 3DTV emitter compatibility with Xpand 103's?

------ My results after fidling with the emitter, reading the 3DTV Gen2 Home Emitter Instructions booklet, and working with the CS (not adjustable to signal) and X103 glasses (adjustable to signal for different compatibilities):

Here's the 3DTV emitter's instructions noting their CS glasses work with the emitter with LED color code (Red-Green alternating or Green blinking) - but they don't - I found the CS glasses only work best (stable 3D) on LED color code (Orange blinking) which was not one of the noted working LED light mode.


Secondly - as the instructions apply to the X103's the Gen2 Home emitter notes the 103's should work with the emitter with LED color code (Orange blinking, Red-green alternating, Green blinking and Green-orange alternating) - but operation as noted only on Red-green alternating and also on Red blinking (not supposed to work on Red blinking but it was the best 3D for the X103)


Positive result is that I've found operational LED emitter modes for both 3DTV CS glasses as well as XPand 103's, but they are not on the same mode so I can use both glasses at once. Bottom line, I'd like to be able to use both sets at the same time.


Anybody here from 3DTV that could comment on the discrepancy of their emitter instructions and if the emitter is defective because the electronics are out of specs resulting in either glasses not working in their noted LED emitter color code?


----------



## Nels0n2010

3DTV provided some answers for their Gen2 emitter, CS glasses and their other models and compatibility with Xpand 103...as noted:


"The gen2 sheet was printed a month ago and so with the blinding pace of change in 3d and the xmas rush and the fact we only got CS (ie samsung mode) last week and replaced C and that x103 is much more limited than I expected account for the discrepancies. Sorry and of course I will revise gen2 insts asap. Orange blinking is samsung mode and we have 3 models of samsung original glasses as well as our U(replaces S and SA1) which all work fine in this mode with our dlp projector but for some reason the gen2 does not work with at least some mits tv's in this mode. Very strange! by 3DTV Michael"


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jamieb81* /forum/post/19693977
> 
> 
> I did have 3D off on the Mits. 73737 , I had direct tv and bd going through hdmi switch to 3D adaptor and when I watched non 3D tv it's really washed out. Took direct tv off the switch ran straight to tv and bd also straight to adapt to tv and working fine except for when j want to watch 3D tv I have to run it back through adaptor .
> 
> It's a pain to go back and forth .



Search the forums. I read somewhere that the Direct TV box sends the wrong video levels to the Mits adapter.


----------



## yellowssm

I finally watched a second movie in 3d on my 73c9 with the Mitsubishi start up kit and now I realize the teal blacks you guys were talking about. It horrible looking! I need to get some real 3d glasses now. So without reading this thread over what's the cheapest solution?


----------



## RobbW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Augerhandle* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Search the forums. I read somewhere that the Direct TV box sends the wrong video levels to the Mits adapter.



Not sure I agree...


Perhaps it's based on the specific DirecTV box or the Mitsubishi emitter, but I'm running my H24-200 HDDVR through an IOGear 1x3 HDMI switch (along with PS3/Panny 300 BD) and then onto the 3DA-1, and then into my HDMI3 on my Samsung HLT-5089s with no loss of detail or contrast alongside my RealD Crystal Eyes 4 glasses. Granted, I'm not using the Mitsubishi emitter since I'm using a RealD emitter paired to the CE4s, but it all looks phenomenal. (Although, admittedly, I was watching a few mins of a Jessica Simpson Xmas concert on N3D over the weekend, and the glasses seemed to make her look as if she had gained 50 pounds).










RobbW


----------



## yellowssm

Do the crystal eyes 4 or 5 (dont know which one I need) work with the mitsubishi starter kit or do I need to get their emitter?


----------



## Daniel Murray

crystal eyes 4 will work with the starter kit. the crystal eyes 5 will also work. You do not need the emitter. They work off the DLP Link and would be the better way to go.


----------



## yellowssm




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Daniel Murray* /forum/post/19716487
> 
> 
> crystal eyes 4 will work with the starter kit. the crystal eyes 5 will also work. You do not need the emitter. They work off the DLP Link and would be the better way to go.



so why are people buying the other emitter also? What does their emitter do better than the mitsu emitter?


----------



## walford

Different brands of emitters broadcast on different IR frequencies and therefore can only be used with glasses that receive the frequency. So the CE4 glasses do not work with the Mits emitter.


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19716908
> 
> 
> Different brands of emitters broadcast on different IR frequencies and therefore can only be used with glasses that receive the frequency. So the CE5 glasses do not work with the Mits emitter.



You mean CE4 CE5 are DLP link.


----------



## yellowssm

So the CE4's DONT work, do the CE5's work with the mitsu emitter?


----------



## Daniel Murray

CE5'S are DLP Link glasses. So you do not need the emitter.


----------



## RobbW




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Daniel Murray* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> CE5'S are DLP Link glasses. So you do not need the emitter.



Correct. The CE5's are standalone DLP Link glasses, and the CE4's are IR glasses that pair with a RealD emitter for those TV's like mine (HLT5089s) that MAY have issues successfully transmitting the DLP flash (thus, in my particular situation, I couldn't get the CE5s to sync) I don't believe the CE4s will work with anything but a RealD emitter.


Thankfully, the CE4s do an excellent job of blocking the DLP Flash and I couldn't be happier.


RobbW


----------



## yellowssm

thanks for the help guys. I guess CE5's are coming my way. Mitsubishi 73C9 tv btw.


----------



## j007m

Report: Majority of Consumers Not Interested in 3DTV

Posted by Shane Smith on Dec 21, 2010 under news


Backers and buyers of 3DTVs may be disappointed by recent data released by research giant Nielsen, which reveal that the majority of consumers both worldwide and in the US are unlikely to buy 3DTV sets.


According to Nielsen’s numbers, only 3% of surveyed consumers in the US expressed interest in purchasing a 3DTV during the next 12 months. That number goes up to about 10% when worldwide consumers are factored in.


Still grimmer for the 3DTV movement is the percentage of American respondents who declared that they would not be purchasing 3D sets, which stands at nearly 60%.


3D in the home, at least at this point, still comes across as an overpriced gimmick to the majority of consumers, especially Americans. Do you think that perception will ever change, Insiders, or will 3DTV join the ranks of the Laser Disc and DAT in a few years?


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RobbW* /forum/post/19715987
> 
> 
> Not sure I agree...
> 
> 
> Perhaps it's based on the specific DirecTV box or the Mitsubishi emitter, but I'm running my H24-200 HDDVR through an IOGear 1x3 HDMI switch (along with PS3/Panny 300 BD) and then onto the 3DA-1, and then into my HDMI3 on my Samsung HLT-5089s with no loss of detail or contrast alongside my RealD Crystal Eyes 4 glasses. Granted, I'm not using the Mitsubishi emitter since I'm using a RealD emitter paired to the CE4s, but it all looks phenomenal. (Although, admittedly, I was watching a few mins of a Jessica Simpson Xmas concert on N3D over the weekend, and the glasses seemed to make her look as if she had gained 50 pounds).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RobbW



Must've been that one box then. Glad to see yours is working.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *j007m* /forum/post/19718030
> 
> 
> Report: Majority of Consumers Not Interested in 3DTV
> 
> Posted by Shane Smith on Dec 21, 2010 under news
> 
> 
> Backers and buyers of 3DTVs may be disappointed by recent data released by research giant Nielsen, which reveal that the majority of consumers both worldwide and in the US are unlikely to buy 3DTV sets.
> 
> 
> According to Nielsen's numbers, only 3% of surveyed consumers in the US expressed interest in purchasing a 3DTV during the next 12 months. That number goes up to about 10% when worldwide consumers are factored in.
> 
> 
> Still grimmer for the 3DTV movement is the percentage of American respondents who declared that they would not be purchasing 3D sets, which stands at nearly 60%.
> 
> 
> 3D in the home, at least at this point, still comes across as an overpriced gimmick to the majority of consumers, especially Americans. Do you think that perception will ever change, Insiders, or will 3DTV join the ranks of the Laser Disc and DAT in a few years?



Link?


----------



## Stew4msu




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Augerhandle* /forum/post/19718274
> 
> 
> Link?


 Curious that the member that posted it only has two posts on this forum and they're both the exact same thing.


----------



## j007m




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Augerhandle* /forum/post/19718274
> 
> 
> Link?





Just trying to post an informative article, but looks like some get offended by info that don't fit their narrow views.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *j007m* /forum/post/19718390
> 
> 
> Just trying to post an informative article, but looks like some get offended by info that don't fit their narrow views.



Not offended. I want to read the article myself. This is a science forum. When posting facts, we attach the link. Check other posts.


----------



## Augerhandle

It's now obvious why the poster did not include a link.


Found the link myself. http://www.insideredbox.com/report-m...dtv/#more-4467 which links to another link, http://gigaom.com/video/home-3d-is-doa/ which links to the study itself http://blog.nielsen.com/nielsenwire/...und-the-globe/ 



> Quote:
> After watching the 3DTV content reel, six in ten participants agreed that the content was better than their current 2DTV viewing, and nearly half (48%) found it more engaging. They also stated that it made them feel like they were part of the action (57%) and closer to the characters (48%).



27,000 *online* consumers surveyed to represent the _entire world_. The summary gives this reason for the lack of enthusiasm:



> Quote:
> “Our research shows that, despite *positive perceptions towards 3DTV programming*, consumers are still hesitant to invest in 3DTV sets – opting to take a ‘wait and see’ approach,” said Frank Stagliano, EVP/GM of TV Primary Research for Nielsen. “*Recent technology battles between plasma and LCD or blu-ray and HD DVDs have trained consumers to wait until widespread adoption is more likely.* This drives down cost, making technology more affordable.”



Nowhere in the actual study do you find this quote:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *j007m* /forum/post/19718030
> 
> 
> [snip] ... 3D in the home, at least at this point, still comes across as an overpriced gimmick to the majority of consumers, especially Americans. ... [snip]



Seems to me that the author is biased and making his own conclusions. Read it yourself.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Stew4msu* /forum/post/19718295
> 
> Curious that the member that posted it only has two posts on this forum and they're both the exact same thing.



Standard operating procedure for Trolls. He'll be back under another name, as soon as he can find more BS to post.


----------



## Augerhandle

Another quote from the study:



> Quote:
> In a survey of approximately 27,000 online consumers conducted in September across 53 countries, 13 percent of respondents said they already own or ‘definitely will’ purchase a 3DTV set in the next 12 months. An additional 15 percent of global online consumers said they ‘probably will’ purchase a 3DTV.



So 13 + 15 = 28% either own, will definitely buy, or probably will buy a 3DTV.


28% is a pretty decent market share, if you ask me.







It's 3% more than an HDTV survey in 2006, with the same answer given for lack of adoption, (fear, uncertainty, and doubt).


From a 2006 study on *HDTV*:

http://tv.about.com/od/hdtv/a/HDTVeducation.htm 



> Quote:
> According to the study, 92% of the public is aware of HDTV with *25% looking to buy a new HDTV this year*...
> 
> 
> Rosengard says, “Intention has not converted to purchase at the rates expected due to consumer confusion and paralysis due to being overwhelmed. There are many choices on technology: LCD, DLP, Plasma, CRT and the consumer can’t always differentiate or really care. There are many brands to choose from…consumers fear the set price will fall further or a bigger, better model or technology will be released shortly making their model obsolete.”


----------



## Jamieb81

Ok,thanks I will do search,I have the Yamaha 665 receiver I bought last January, which I thought was 1.4 HDMI and apparently it's not capable of handling the newer HDMI for 3D.


----------



## johnson636

I was wondering, how long was the wait for those that recieved their kit from mits. I still don't have mine







No email. No nothing.


----------



## Buddyl33

My in laws ordered my kit from Buy.com for me for Xmas. Cost them like $312 shipped. All I can say is in the limited time I've had with this, I think it's awesome!


----------



## kjroddy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnson636* /forum/post/19723090
> 
> 
> I was wondering, how long was the wait for those that recieved their kit from mits. I still don't have mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No email. No nothing.



I applied online on 11/20 and mailed in the form the following Monday, 11/22.


Approval email arrived 12/2, kit arrived 12/17


----------



## johnson636

Quote:

Originally Posted by *kjroddy* 
I applied online on 11/20 and mailed in the form the following Monday, 11/22.


Approval email arrived 12/2, kit arrived 12/17
Hopefully mine will arrive soon. Surely they didn't run out...............right


----------



## y2j

I have a 73738 TV and the Mits 3D glasses that came in their 3D kit. Everything worked fine over the past couple of weeks and now all of a sudden I cannot view 3D properly anymore. Nothing changed in my setup at all. I have been using a PS3 to play 3D movies. When a 3D movie starts playing, the right lense of the 3D glasses darken drastically and stop the 3D effect from working. This happens on both pairs of glasses. Has anyone ever seen this happen before? If so, what is the cause and is there a fix for this? I put new batteries in the glasses as well and that does not help. To complicate things further, I just played a 3D game on the PS3 and it worked fine! So it is just movies that won't display properly...even ones I have watched in the past successfully. Thanks in advance for any help or feedback.


----------



## TheCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Augerhandle* /forum/post/19718500
> 
> 
> Standard operating procedure for Trolls. He'll be back under another name, as soon as he can find more BS to post.



I'm not so sure his info is that inaccurate... I have 3 friends that have seen 3DTV on my 73 inch Mitsubishi, that all bought decent size 2D TVs for Christmas.


Their rational for buying 2D, even after I suggested 3D, actually made a lot of sense... The 3D TVs can cost up to 3 times the cost of a similar 2D TV, and that is before spending up to another $500 or more, for enough glasses for everyone in their family to watch.


And they all said this was all too new. And I am not sure I can disagree with that... With the exception of the TI DLP Link glasses standards, it looks like the TV manufacturers are more interested in becoming glasses manufacturers, than TV manufacturers.


I was an early adopter when I got my 73 inch Mitsubishi because it was 3D Ready. But I suspect, until there is a standard defined for the glasses, like the standards that define HDMI and the 3D Media. No matter how cool 3DTV is, we are still all early adopters and likely to get our investments stepped on by standards that will probably have to arrive before the public widely accepts 3DTV.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheCatcher* /forum/post/19729632
> 
> 
> I'm not so sure his info is that inaccurate... I have 3 friends that have seen 3DTV on my 73 inch Mitsubishi, that all bought decent size 2D TVs for Christmas.
> 
> 
> Their rational for buying 2D, even after I suggested 3D, actually made a lot of sense... The 3D TVs can cost up to 3 times the cost of a similar 2D TV, and that is before spending up to another $500 or more, for enough glasses for everyone in their family to watch.
> 
> 
> And they all said this was all too new. And I am not sure I can disagree with that... With the exception of the TI DLP Link glasses standards, it looks like the TV manufacturers are more interested in becoming glasses manufacturers, than TV manufacturers.
> 
> 
> I was an early adopter when I got my 73 inch Mitsubishi because it was 3D Ready. But I suspect, until there is a standard defined for the glasses, like the standards that define HDMI and the 3D Media. No matter how cool 3DTV is, we are still all early adopters and likely to get our investments stepped on by standards that will probably have to arrive before the public widely accepts 3DTV.



I bought the 73" for the bang for the buck and after reading positive reviews (save the 'blob' issue which did occur but Mitsy replaced with a newer model) and thought the 3D would be cool "someday". Well I'm glad I bought it and yes - even though we're 'early adopters' (I paid @$3K for my set) I bought it for the 2D and size. I'm glad to have 3D now and if I was buying 'now' I'd do it again. Why? Bang for the buck since you can buy a 62" for @$1K plus $500 for the kit and you're ready (and if you have a PS3 already).

If I had more coin (think: 12 months no interest): I'd wait it out (if I was going to buy now) since Vizio has on the streets 3D TV's using non-stereoscopic glasses (no battery-type: ones you use at the theater) and LG just announced their same type of display. THESE will be the ones that will push everyone into 3D but not until 1) the prices for these sets come down (even with the 'inexpensive' glasses still very high) and 2) MORE QUALITY 3D programming (BD's & TV). I'm enjoying the 3D ESPN is putting out and the spotty (like 3) shows Comcast has (this weekend I'll watch the hockey game even though I don't like it) but there needs to be more - a LOT more. And the whole Avatar 'exclusive' deal is just another step back in trying to get more adoption.


----------



## Paul.R.S




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnson636* /forum/post/19723090
> 
> 
> I was wondering, how long was the wait for those that recieved their kit from mits. I still don't have mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No email. No nothing.



If you haven't yet, I suggest you call. Gina is quite pleasant and, since obviously the delivery times are all over the map, speaking to her would probably be more productive than asking how long other folks' wait was.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheCatcher* /forum/post/19729632
> 
> 
> With the exception of the TI DLP Link glasses standards, it looks like the TV manufacturers are more interested in becoming glasses manufacturers, than TV manufacturers.
> 
> 
> I was an early adopter when I got my 73 inch Mitsubishi because it was 3D Ready. But I suspect, until there is a standard defined for the glasses, like the standards that define HDMI and the 3D Media. No matter how cool 3DTV is, we are still all early adopters and likely to get our investments stepped on by standards that will probably have to arrive before the public widely accepts 3DTV.



Some good observations here. Hyperbole aside, I don't think it's difficult to understand why many 3D set manufs are showing keen interest in making 3D glasses. There's the ancillary sales benefit, especially when Panasonic apparently chose to use an IR frequency that's different from many other manufs thereby "forcing" purchase of their glasses to use with their displays. But also, given how long consumers keep a TV before upgrading, there's the likelihood of future glasses sales to replace broken ones and/or so more people can watch. Granted I don't think folks will go through glasses like printer cartridges, but I'm reminded of, say, HP making way more money from ink sales than the laserprinters themselves.


Glasses are the hottest growth area in the 3D market right now. We know who the major players are in terms of 3D display manufs and 3D content providers. But in the past two months, I've seen trade press stories about Oakley and Calvin Klein getting into 3D glasses. I think it was the latter that is partnering with RealD so that you can wear your own sunglasses to RealD 3D theatrical releases, forgoing the glasses you'd usually get at the theater.


I say much of that to say, who would promulgate the standard for 3D glasses? Studio anti-piracy efforts drove the creation of HDCP/HDMI. And with a 1080p packaged media format already on the market and doing well, it only made sense that BD become the vehicle for leveraging 3D into the home, especially after the boffo success of _Avatar_.


But it seems to me there might be too much money to be made from competition/exclusivity (_e.g._, Panasonic) versus an open standard at least until the price differential that turned off your friends from buying a 3D HDTV drops further. And then on top of that if, per Wryker's post, companies such as Vizio and LG are releasing sets that mate with non-stereoscopic 3D glasses, that's another fly in any standards likelihood ointment.


And re getting our investments "stepped on": I'm thinking that regardless of any standard that may emerge, although the glasses will likely get crazier/sexier/lighter/cooler, we'll still always have our Samsung/Mitsu SSG-2100s (and any later gens) working just fine with our little outboard emitters, right?


----------



## Mitsu52Guy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheCatcher* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not so sure his info is that inaccurate... I have 3 friends that have seen 3DTV on my 73 inch Mitsubishi, that all bought decent size 2D TVs for Christmas.
> 
> 
> Their rational for buying 2D, even after I suggested 3D, actually made a lot of sense... The 3D TVs can cost up to 3 times the cost of a similar 2D TV, and that is before spending up to another $500 or more, for enough glasses for everyone in their family to watch.
> 
> 
> And they all said this was all too new. And I am not sure I can disagree with that... With the exception of the TI DLP Link glasses standards, it looks like the TV manufacturers are more interested in becoming glasses manufacturers, than TV manufacturers.
> 
> 
> I was an early adopter when I got my 73 inch Mitsubishi because it was 3D Ready. But I suspect, until there is a standard defined for the glasses, like the standards that define HDMI and the 3D Media. No matter how cool 3DTV is, we are still all early adopters and likely to get our investments stepped on by standards that will probably have to arrive before the public widely accepts 3DTV.



I disagree on the cost argument. I picked up a Mitsubishi 60738 for $1039. The same size "3D Ready" box was just 200 cheaper. ANY other technology at that size would have been double what I paid.


Bought a couple of UC DLP link glasses for $120.


Already get content from DTV. Seems like a no brainer.


----------



## Bertil

I can see how it would be confusing to Joe Sixpack... but it only took a couple minutes of research to figure out what it would take to watch 3D on my WD-73735: UC DLP-Link glasses and updated Arcsoft TMT. Now, I got the 3DA-1 adapter to be able to watch other sources than my HTPC, i.e. PS3 and DirecTV once I get a new HD-DVR.


The starter kit is too expensive, but I guess you pay for the convenience.


----------



## Impala1ss




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *y2j* /forum/post/19729623
> 
> 
> I have a 73738 TV and the Mits 3D glasses that came in their 3D kit. Everything worked fine over the past couple of weeks and now all of a sudden I cannot view 3D properly anymore. Nothing changed in my setup at all. I have been using a PS3 to play 3D movies. When a 3D movie starts playing, the right lense of the 3D glasses darken drastically and stop the 3D effect from working. This happens on both pairs of glasses. Has anyone ever seen this happen before? If so, what is the cause and is there a fix for this? I put new batteries in the glasses as well and that does not help. To complicate things further, I just played a 3D game on the PS3 and it worked fine! So it is just movies that won't display properly...even ones I have watched in the past successfully. Thanks in advance for any help or feedback.



I have the 73837 and the 3D works(with the black crush). Put one pair of glasses down one night and the next day they simply didn't work. Had to send them back to Mitsu. for "evaluation." After one week they called and said the glasses didn't work - like I told them. They sent me a new replacement pair.


----------



## y2j




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Impala1ss* /forum/post/19739400
> 
> 
> I have the 73837 and the 3D works(with the black crush). Put one pair of glasses down one night and the next day they simply didn't work. Had to send them back to Mitsu. for "evaluation." After one week they called and said the glasses didn't work - like I told them. They sent me a new replacement pair.



The next day I tried viewing 3D again and now both glasses work all of a sudden! It doesn't make any sense because I doubt 2 pairs of glasses would break at the exact same time.


----------



## j007m

 http://news.cnet.com/8301-10797_3-20026728-235.html 


Watch out for the kids using 3d glasses..


----------



## Jamieb81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Augerhandle* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Turn off 3D mode in the TV when not watching 3D content.



Yes,I didn't understand which setting you were referring too last reply . You were correct with diagnosed 3D mode was left on in picture setting thanks .


----------



## thefloater24

Help! I need the serial number for the 3DC-1000. I can't find it under my adapter and now Mitsubishi won't allow me to purchase a replacement for my broken emitter. Please post serial number or email it to me. Thanks!


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jamieb81* /forum/post/19750577
> 
> 
> Yes,I didn't understand which setting you were referring too last reply . You were correct with diagnosed 3D mode was left on in picture setting thanks .



You're welcome. Glad to help.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thefloater24* /forum/post/19757944
> 
> 
> Help! I need the serial number for the 3DC-1000. I can't find it under my adapter and now Mitsubishi won't allow me to purchase a replacement for my broken emitter. Please post serial number or email it to me. Thanks!



I smell a certain long-tailed rodent...


----------



## thefloater24

Please, can anyone help? I can't afford to pay $399 right now when I just need a new emitter. [email protected]


----------



## Mimiako

WD-73833

Hi, I was previously helped but forgot to check up on my answers. I need that update for a "WD-73833" television, the update 9.03 since the company won't give it to me since I "do not need it."

All of the links I've found on here no longer work, can someone PM it or post it for me? Much Appreciated!


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *thefloater24* /forum/post/19758111
> 
> 
> Please, can anyone help? I can't afford to pay $399 right now when I just need a new emitter. [email protected]



I would just contact Mitsubishi and see if you can get the emitter separately. Why would anyone give you their serial number and then not be able to use it later if something goes wrong with their equipment?


----------



## Natrix1973

Has anyone tried using Nvidia 3dtv Play through the Mits adapter yet?


On the FAQ's on the Nvidia site, it says that it is incompatable with the adapter and the 3d Vision kit/glasses needs to be used.


----------



## uric3

Wondering if I can get a little help, if this has been addressed before my apologizes I've been digging for days to no avail...


I have a WD-73837 TV and just got the 3DC-1000 recently and using my PS3 as my source for 3D content.


The problem I am running into is this, everything works aok playing games etc... however when I try to play a blu-ray movie it does its thing flickers shows the input like normal but the screen goes blue... but then the sound starts playing so I have sound but no picture... its only does this on blu-ray movies so far games and DVDs work fine... also once the screen goes blue if I stop play back or eject the disc I get back to the XMB fine however there is noise in the picture with some funky colored pixels throughout the screen...


However upon powering down and powering back up the devices that goes away again until I try another blu-ray movie.


Is there a setting on the PS3 I need to change that is causing this? Is there a firmware update for my TV? Any ideas as to what the problem may be... at first I thought my PS3 was crapping out, then I realized it wasn't, I tried a new HDMI cable to no avail etc... thanks in advance for any help.


----------



## utvnut

WD-73837, DirecTV and 3D pack from Mit:


Problem:


Blue screen and delay when changing channels. The BIG problem is loud "popping" and static sounds until the new channel finally comes up. Real pain.3D itself works. Any ideas on fixing the sound issues?


(New HDMI cables)


----------



## briankstan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *utvnut* /forum/post/19767681
> 
> 
> WD-73837, DirecTV and 3D pack from Mit:
> 
> 
> Problem:
> 
> 
> Blue screen and delay when changing channels. The BIG problem is loud "popping" and static sounds until the new channel finally comes up. Real pain.3D itself works. Any ideas on fixing the sound issues?
> 
> 
> (New HDMI cables)



I have a very similar issue, mine doesn't make the popping and static noises, but I get the random blue screen "invalid format" and sometimes a picture that looks like a film negative with a green tint. I've replaced my cables, the are all high speed HDMI, and I still can't resolved the issue. it all goes away when the adapter is removed, so I has to be something to do with it, is my guess.


I've posted about these issues before but no one commented back. Hopefully we can find some answeres.


----------



## kjroddy

Yeah - the 3Da1 takes a long time to sort itself out when you switch between channels that have different native resolutions... doesn't seem to be much you can do about it except be patient and mute before changing channels to stop the loud popping sounds


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uric3* /forum/post/19765969
> 
> 
> Wondering if I can get a little help, if this has been addressed before my apologizes I've been digging for days to no avail...
> 
> 
> I have a WD-73837 TV and just got the 3DC-1000 recently and using my PS3 as my source for 3D content.
> 
> 
> The problem I am running into is this, everything works aok playing games etc... however when I try to play a blu-ray movie it does its thing flickers shows the input like normal but the screen goes blue... but then the sound starts playing so I have sound but no picture... its only does this on blu-ray movies so far games and DVDs work fine... also once the screen goes blue if I stop play back or eject the disc I get back to the XMB fine however there is noise in the picture with some funky colored pixels throughout the screen...
> 
> 
> However upon powering down and powering back up the devices that goes away again until I try another blu-ray movie.
> 
> 
> Is there a setting on the PS3 I need to change that is causing this? Is there a firmware update for my TV? Any ideas as to what the problem may be... at first I thought my PS3 was crapping out, then I realized it wasn't, I tried a new HDMI cable to no avail etc... thanks in advance for any help.



Do you have an (HDMI 1.3) AV receiver somewhere in the mix?


----------



## j007m

By PETER SVENSSON, AP Technology Writer - 2 hrs 29 mins ago

LAS VEGAS - TV makers are blaming disappointing sales of 3-D TVs last year in part on the bulky glasses they came with. They're trying to tackle that this year by introducing sets that work with lighter, cheaper glasses of the kind used in movie theaters.

http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20110106/...adget_show_tvs


----------



## danmanHD

hi was wondering if you withyour new receiver hdmi 1.4 have you hooked up your cable box to your receiver because when i try to a screen comes up flickering with something saying that some device hooked up is not HDCP witch i found out is just saying it's not HD compliant and that does'nt make sense because i can hook my cable box up to the adapter to the tv just not from the cable box to the receiver to the adapter to the tv witch is how mitsubitshi shows you how to hook it up witch is how i have my ps3 hooked up and it works great.


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *j007m* /forum/post/19773311
> 
> 
> By PETER SVENSSON, AP Technology Writer – 2 hrs 29 mins ago
> 
> LAS VEGAS – TV makers are blaming disappointing sales of 3-D TVs last year in part on the bulky glasses they came with. They're trying to tackle that this year by introducing sets that work with lighter, cheaper glasses of the kind used in movie theaters.
> 
> http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20110106/...adget_show_tvs



They ought to blame it on the lack of content and the fact that they raped the public when everything went digital. I know manufacturers did not mandate the digital change but they sure cashed in on it. So now just about every household has one HD tv or more. They cashed in. Now they are pushing something new so your old set is obsolete. So one must ask is this because they have your best interest at heart or do they simply want to sell more product?


I think we all know the answer to that. Any educated consumer will research what 3d content is available and quickly arrive at the conclusion that it is poor in terms of supply. A bunch of cartoons mostly. As for me I have an older 3d capable DLP unit that works. If not for this it would be a loooooong time before I would be upgrading.


So I think that poor sales have less to do with the bulky glasses, but more to do with the economy, the recent raping of digital TV, the price of the glasses and TVs, and abyssmal content. My cable company, Charter does not even offer 3d TV, and the price of 3d Blu Rays is silly. I believe there is less than 20 titles of good 3d available and over half are cartoons or what folks call animated movies. I call them cartoons. What else do I need to say about this?


Current 3d sales seem to be limited to those with money to burn and that is not John Q Public. This is a luxury item in a time with a bad economy. I had the luxury or luck of purchasing a 3d capable TV a few years ago and waited until now to get my first Blu Ray player that could play 3d.


I like 3d but it needs a lot more work in terms of content and the glasses have nothing to do with that except they could be more affordable.


Edit: sorry for derail of thread. I am responding to posts I see as I see them. Not really the focus of this thread but my thoughts are something to consider. Folks looking here already have capability.


----------



## old corps

I agree with you 100% Mike. I thought about 3D for a long time before I jumped in and if I didn't have a 3D ready Mits I would not have. To me, it's like the manufacturers WANT 3D to fail.










Ed


----------



## uric3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Augerhandle* /forum/post/19772720
> 
> 
> Do you have an (HDMI 1.3) AV receiver somewhere in the mix?



I do not sadly... My old AV can accept component and coax and but not optical or HDMI... so currently I have the sound going through HDMI to the TV and then the TV has a coax out which I send to my AV for 5.1 surround sound.


However I have made some headway... I kept searching and searching and found out the issue to the blu-ray problem... even though my 73837 can do 24fps for movies it doesn't like it for some reason... the PS3 setting had it set to auto for the 24fps and when I turned it off I could get the movies to come up with both picture and sound.


However I still have one problem the noise, when I turn on my PS3 and TV I get to the XMB fine no issues picture perfect. However when I boot to a blu-ray movie and sometimes a game (had it happen on a game last night) and it takes a moment to show the input and I guess do an HDMI handshake I get the noise with various random colored pixels throughout the screen that is very noticeable more so when a bunch are together in a group.


However I did find a work around if I power my TV off by holding the power button for 10 seconds and power it back on it clears up... however that is some what annoying. Any idea what could be causing the noise? I played with PS3 settings for a bit last night to no avail but I could be missing something... so far it is setup as follows HDMI out from PS3 into 3d adapter, adapter to HDMI 1 with coax out on TV going to AV.


Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## johnson636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Paul.R.S* /forum/post/19735034
> 
> 
> If you haven't yet, I suggest you call. Gina is quite pleasant and, since obviously the delivery times are all over the map, speaking to her would probably be more productive than asking how long other folks' wait was.





> Quote:
> Dear Johnson636,
> 
> 
> I show all your information is in the system for your 3D Starter Pack. Mitsubishi has the Packs on backorder due to the high amount of response for this promotion. I apologize for the delay. Once you receive an email with a tracking number, you know it has been shipped out. If you need or have any other questions, please do not hesitate to contact me on my direct line. Thanks and have a safe & blessed New Year.
> 
> 
> Gina Murphy
> 
> Redemption Center



Looks like I'm in for a long wait. Well at least I know










Thanks Paul


----------



## rad

Guess that's promising that there is a demand out there with all the negative comments floating around about 3D in the home.


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikes2cents* /forum/post/19773639
> 
> 
> They ought to blame it on the lack of content and the fact that they raped the public when everything went digital. I know manufacturers did not mandate the digital change but they sure cashed in on it. ...



I know it's ridiculous. Have you seen Dish Networks latest promotion? It says "HD for Life". Everything is eventually going to be HD or at least digital so you shouldn't have to pay anything more for HD since that will be all that is available (no SD or analog).


----------



## RDKing2

I picked up a returned kit that was missing the HDMI cable from Frys just before Christmas. Got it for about 20% off their discounted price so I could not pass it up. It works fine but seems to put off a lot of heat when it is on. Is this normal operation?


Richard


----------



## walford

Do you have it installed in a cabinet which has no ventilation?


----------



## Mikes2cents




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *old corps* /forum/post/19774672
> 
> 
> I agree with you 100% Mike. I thought about 3D for a long time before I jumped in and if I didn't have a 3D ready Mits I would not have. To me, it's like the manufacturers WANT 3D to fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ed



I am sure that they do not want 3d to fail. Unfortunately they do not make movies or provide worthwile content. They better recognize this limitation rather than blame sales on glasses. It boils down to simple math. Amount of content, quality of content, and the silly prices involved not only for the equipment and the 3d BDs. I seriously doubt it has anything to do with bulky glasses. Man, I am in the wrong business as these market analysts appear to be totally aloof and out of touch with reality.


I like the Mits starter kit for concept, but having a Samsung DLP I simply went with a Panny 3d BD player that outputs checkerboard and some Ultra Clear DLP link glasses and am up and running. Same stuff would work for a Mits for much less $$$. Just saying.


----------



## ajricaud




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *uric3* /forum/post/19774848
> 
> 
> I do not sadly... My old AV can accept component and coax and but not optical or HDMI... so currently I have the sound going through HDMI to the TV and then the TV has a coax out which I send to my AV for 5.1 surround sound.
> 
> 
> However I have made some headway... I kept searching and searching and found out the issue to the blu-ray problem... even though my 73837 can do 24fps for movies it doesn't like it for some reason... the PS3 setting had it set to auto for the 24fps and when I turned it off I could get the movies to come up with both picture and sound.
> 
> 
> However I still have one problem the noise, when I turn on my PS3 and TV I get to the XMB fine no issues picture perfect. However when I boot to a blu-ray movie and sometimes a game (had it happen on a game last night) and it takes a moment to show the input and I guess do an HDMI handshake I get the noise with various random colored pixels throughout the screen that is very noticeable more so when a bunch are together in a group.
> 
> 
> However I did find a work around if I power my TV off by holding the power button for 10 seconds and power it back on it clears up... however that is some what annoying. Any idea what could be causing the noise? I played with PS3 settings for a bit last night to no avail but I could be missing something... so far it is setup as follows HDMI out from PS3 into 3d adapter, adapter to HDMI 1 with coax out on TV going to AV.
> 
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.



I think you are on the right track that you are having an HDMI handshake issue. I have a 65837 which is identical to yours except for the screen size. I was apparently also having a handshake issue from my PS3>3D adapter>TV.


I ended up buying this:
http://www.gefen.com/kvm/dproduct.jsp?prod_id=8005 

to see if that would clear up the problem. I figured that if it didn't I would return it and deal with Mitsubishi. Well, that worked and I have no more problems; and, no problems with 24fps content, either.


I know it's kinda lousy having to buy something else to make things work, but at least it does. I don't recall where I bought it from but, I recall doing a Google search and buying it for around $80 or so. I hope this helps.


----------



## TheCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19608771
> 
> 
> The DLP-Link glases opeate in reverse eye synd mode since they were origianly designed for PJs.
> 
> The IR emitter and glases such as the Nivida operate in normal eye sync mode so they normally cannot be mixed. The viewsonic DLP-Link glasses have a built in eye sync reversal switch so they can be mixed with the IR emitters and glases such as the Nvidia ones.



My 2 pairs of Ultra Clear DLP Link glasses arrived today. They are in sync with the NVidia 3D Vision glasses. I ran the NVidia setup program, on my Mitsubishi 73833, Firmware V9.01 (3D enabled, in Standard L-R mode). The test images looked the same. When I viewed the test image that displays a triangle through one eye, and a polygon to the other eye, the Ultra Clear DLP Link glasses showed the same image through the right and left eyes as the NVidia 3D Vision glasses.


Unfortunately, just because the glasses run in sync with each other, doesn't mean I was able to use them at the same time... Every few seconds, the IR blasts from the NVidia 3D Vision IR Dongle (in all 3 modes), would cause the Ultra Clear DLP Link glasses to loose sync and turn off (they turned back on after a second or two, and the cycle continued to repeat).


I suspect I can fix this by finding some form of IR blocking tape and putting it over the Ultra Clear DLP Link glass's clear plastic optical pickup.


----------



## uric3




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajricaud* /forum/post/19780817
> 
> 
> I think you are on the right track that you are having an HDMI handshake issue. I have a 65837 which is identical to yours except for the screen size. I was apparently also having a handshake issue from my PS3>3D adapter>TV.
> 
> 
> I ended up buying this:
> http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/newre...ply&p=19774848
> 
> to see if that would clear up the problem. I figured that if it didn't I would return it and deal with Mitsubishi. Well, that worked and I have no more problems; and, no problems with 24fps content, either.
> 
> 
> I know it's kinda lousy having to buy something else to make things work, but at least it does. I don't recall where I bought it from but, I recall doing a Google search and buying it for around $80 or so. I hope this helps.



Thank you very much for the response, what did you buy? The link you posted is a reply link... I'm willing to get it if it'll fix the issue.


----------



## Daniel Murray

Dose any one know if my 65835 is HDCP. My Nvidia 435m video card says my TV dose not support HDCP and I think it doses.

I can not play Blu-ray or 3D Blu-ray on my TV with my new Dell XPS Laptop.

I also get PowerDVD is not able to play protected content on your digital output device error code 107


----------



## walford

The specs in your user's manual state that the TV is HDCP complient. What resolution are you sending to it over HDMI?


----------



## Daniel Murray

1920x1080p 60hz


----------



## walford

The 3D output from a 3D BR disk player is in HDMI 1.4a stacked 1080p buffer format any you need to use a MIT 3D adapter to convert it to checkerboard which you can use with your TV using either DLP-link or glasses or with the MITs adapter kit and glasses./

2S blue ray format is 1080p/24.

Also I believe you need PowerDVD 10 Ultra [MarkII] to decode 3D blu-ray disks.


You may find the following link informative:

http://hdguru.com/3d-hdtv-and-hdmi-explained/1336/


----------



## RDKing2




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19779785
> 
> 
> Do you have it installed in a cabinet which has no ventilation?



It is installed in a cabinet with active ventilation. I did notice the unit puts off the heat before I ever put it in the cabinet. Just seems to get a bit warm for a little box.


----------



## Daniel Murray

walford,

I have PowerDVD 9.6 and it is 3D ready software. I can set the player settings for 3D checkerboard. I have also been told that the Mitsubishi adapter dose not work with computers. I have been told by Dell, Nvidia, and Cyberlink that all I need to do is set up my settings to checkerboard and plug in my HDMI cable.


----------



## walford

Some thoughs:

Do you have other video sources other then tuner connections do you have connected to your TV if any?

Do you have any other video connections to your PC except for a PC monitor? If yes what?

What is the native resoluiton of your Dell monitor?

Do you see the Checkerboard display on it?

Is your TV set to 3D Checkerboard mode?

Have you tried different HDMI ports on your TV?


----------



## Daniel Murray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19789569
> 
> 
> Some thoughs:
> 
> Do you have other video sources other then tuner connections do you have connected to your TV if any?
> 
> Do you have any other video connections to your PC except for a PC monitor? If yes what?
> 
> What is the native resoluiton of your Dell monitor?
> 
> Do you see the Checkerboard display on it?
> 
> Is your TV set to 3D Checkerboard mode?
> 
> Have you tried different HDMI ports on your TV?



Going to my TV with HDMI.


HDMI 1 is D* TV HDR box

HDMI 2 is Pioneer Elite Blu-Ray player

HDMI 3 is Pioneer Elite DVD player

HDMI 4 is set for my PC.

I do not have any other connections to my laptop.

My Dell native resoluiton is 1600x900p

Yes I do have it set to checkerboard.

Yes my TV is set for 3D

No I have not tried a different HDMI ports.


----------



## walford

I can find no mention of checkerboard 3D fomat in the users manual in the following link:
http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/pdf/own...s/WD-65735.pdf 

So I don't know how you select checkerboard format instead of frame sequentil 3D game format for the HDMI port you are using.


Are you trying to use both your PC monitor and the TV as displays at the same time?

If yes what do you see on your PC monitor? And if using Clone mode instead of extended desktop mode is the TV selected as the primary display?


----------



## Daniel Murray




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19794936
> 
> 
> I can find no mention of checkerboard 3D fomat in the users manual in the following link:
> http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/pdf/own...s/WD-65735.pdf
> 
> So I don't know how you select checkerboard format instead of frame sequentil 3D game format for the HDMI port you are using.
> 
> 
> Are you trying to use both your PC monitor and the TV as displays at the same time?
> 
> If yes what do you see on your PC monitor? And if using Clone mode instead of extended desktop mode is the TV selected as the primary display?



My TV is 65835 and when I turn on my 3D mode I thought that is when it goes into checkerboard mode.

When I plug in the HDMI cable into my TV and then to my laptop. The laptop display goses off and my TV is now the laptop display. When I check for display out put it comes up 1920x1080p at 60hz but I can set it for 24hz.

Also my 3D mode in my laptop is set to checkerboard.

But I can not play any Blu-rays or 3D Blu-rays to my TV. But they will pay on my laptop.


----------



## walford

Checkerboard format is a 1920x1080 60fps format.

When playing BR or 3D BR disk on you laptop you are playing them in 2D.

I believe it is your PowerDVD menu that is set to output in checkerboard format and that you are just using the video player built in to your laptop to play the 2D or 3D BR disk,

Looking at page 48 of your user's manual I think the "name" you are using for you input source may be the problem.

I beleive the "name" PC only applies to games coming from a PC in 720p frame sequential format. And you may need to use the "name" DVD for the TV to check for Checkerboard input.


----------



## Daniel Murray

walford I will change "name" from PC to Blu-ray when I get home later too night.

Thank you for your help,

Daniel


----------



## Daniel Murray

Ok I reset HDMI 4 to Blu-ray. It stills tells me that my TV dose not supoort HDCP and powerdvd error code 107.

I hope to have time tomorrow to try a diffrent HDMI port.


----------



## walford

Can you play a standard 2D BLu-ray disk on your PC using PowerDVD without the output format set to Checkerboard and without the TV set set to 3D.

Can you get a PC application to display on your TV?

Until you can do both of the above I would not try playing a 3D BR again.


----------



## Daniel Murray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *walford* 
Can you play a standard 2D BLu-ray disk on your PC using PowerDVD without the output format set to Checkerboard and without the TV set set to 3D.

Can you get a PC application to display on your TV?

Until you can do both of the above I would not try playing a 3D BR again.
I can play 2d Blu-ray on my PC but not on my TV.

I can get PC application to display on my TV


----------



## walford

Can you play a 2D BR on your laptop monitor?


----------



## Daniel Murray

Quote:

Originally Posted by *walford* 
Can you play a 2D BR on your laptop monitor?
Yes I can.


----------



## walford

Can you play a DVD using PowerDVD and display it on your TV?

Do I unserstand correctly that you setup your laptop to display on either it's screen OR on the TV but never on both concurently?


----------



## Daniel Murray

I can play DVD using PowerDVD to my TV.

Yes if I have my laptop hooked to my TV my laptop screen turns off and everything goses to my TV. But never both.


----------



## walford

Have you tried Both. I ask becaue it would be interesting to know what you see on the TV if anyting when playing a 2D BR disk on your laptop at the same time. My HP laptop laptop allows met to choose.


----------



## Daniel Murray

I can not play at the same time.


----------



## TheCatcher

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Daniel Murray* 
I can play DVD using PowerDVD to my TV.

Yes if I have my laptop hooked to my TV my laptop screen turns off and everything goses to my TV. But never both.
If your TV isn't being recognized as HDCP compatible, Power DVD may still let you play 2D DRM media to it, but it is probably lowering the resolution. When you attempt to play 3D DRM media to your TV (according to page 35 of your manual) the TV needs to receive a 1080p x 60hz signal (unless the input is named PC, it appears that if the input is named PC, it can support additional resolutions, but maybe not at the resolution PowerDVD requires for 3D content).


Is it possible that PowerDVD realizes that either the TV can't display the 3D content or it can't generate it the data at the lower non-HDCP compatible resolutions, so PowerDVD issues the HDCP error message?


And if this is the case, this is what I would try next...


1. Is there an update to PowerDVD that will recognize your TV as HDCP compliant?


2. Assuming the version of PowerDVD you are using supports it, have you tried playing one of the sample 3D movies (that doesn't contain DRM) to your TV using PowerDVD?


If PowerDVD is having problems playing the samples... Are you sure you have PowerDVD configured correctly? I have an older Mitsubishi DLP. I have to manually tell PowerDVD to generate the checkerboard output. And when I run 3D content from files, I typically manually tell PowerDVD the input file format.


Assuming neither of these works, and it is an HDCP problem... you might have to consider using a HDCP Stripper, that PowerDVD recognizes as HDCP compliant. A few posts back, I believe ajricaud posted a link to device that sounds like it might have HDCP Stripper capabilities.


----------



## AndyKoopa

Hi All,


I just bought a new Denon Receiver that has 4 HDMI 1.4a inputs and 1 HDMI 1.4a output.


I am looking for a Matrix (or whatever) switch that is 1x2 HDMI 1.4a rated. This way I can put the switch on the receiver output and split from there into 2 connections, one for the 3DA-1 box to an input on the tv and the other a direct connection to the TV. This way I have all of my sources, 3 of which are 3D connected to the receiver and splitting after to 2 tv inputs.


Has anyone seen an actual HDMI 1.4a certified switch?


Thank you for taking the time to read and help out,

-Andy


----------



## Wryker

Quote:

Originally Posted by *AndyKoopa* 
Hi All,


I just bought a new Denon Receiver that has 4 HDMI 1.4a inputs and 1 HDMI 1.4a output.


I am looking for a Matrix (or whatever) switch that is 1x2 HDMI 1.4a rated. This way I can put the switch on the receiver output and split from there into 2 connections, one for the 3DA-1 box to an input on the tv and the other a direct connection to the TV. This way I have all of my sources, 3 of which are 3D connected to the receiver and splitting after to 2 tv inputs.


Has anyone seen an actual HDMI 1.4a certified switch?


Thank you for taking the time to read and help out,

-Andy
You don't need a certified 1.4a switch - I have a 4 x 2 switch and have posted about my set-up (I have a Denon 3808 that does not support 3D pass through of 3D BD's). Go to monoprice - they have several switch/splitters that support 3D pass through.


----------



## tlogan6797

^^^^


Agreed. The 1.4a is to support networking. ANY HIGH SPEED cable will pass 3D. I have a Denon 3806 and just hooked up the 4X4 1.3 matrix switch from MonoPrice and it works fine. I have a Mits 65-737 and went cable and BR into the switch and then out to HDMI1 (BR), HDMI 2 (Cable) and converter to HDMI3 (3D). Thus bypassing the converter unless I'm actually watching 3D. Nice thing is I have a Harmony 700 and the codes for the MP switch are in the LogiTech database. Which is a REALLY good thing since my dog ate the remote while I was hooking everything up.


----------



## Daniel Murray

TheCatcher tanks for your help,

But I am having a hard time finding the link HDCP Stripper capabilities. I must be mising it some how.


----------



## pauljonesjr76




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bkerrpdx* /forum/post/19652574
> 
> 
> nu b here...... so have dove in and really didnt expect to have this many issues with all of this. Here is what I have
> 
> 
> PS3 / HR23-700
> 
> 
> going to
> 
> 
> Pioneer VSX1020k 3d pass through\\
> 
> 
> to 3dc1000 adapter
> 
> 
> to WD73c10
> 
> 
> I can get a 3d movie ( just got Despicable Me ) and games playing.... but inconsistently with some troubleshooting to get to that point.
> 
> 
> At times.... when switching to 3d or even just changing the channel on the DVR... the screen will go all white ( with some of the picture showing through in blocks ) or go completely negative Green. After changing the channel or switching back and forth on the input from the AVR.... I can eventually get the picture as desired ( but then it leaves 2 white tiny pixels at the top ). Its very frustrating and odd. Its like the equipment is having problems processing the signal at times and gets messed up.
> 
> 
> Sorry.... this is not that easy to explain.... just wondering if this looks familiar to everyone?
> 
> 
> Overall.... great experience once i get past the kicking the TV phase ( feels like I'm the Fonz to get it to work ).




I am having the same problem and mitsubishi customer service is terrible. has anyone had this problem and resolved it?


----------



## kevinz13

This is a bit embarrassing but I need some help.

I just moved to a new apartment and I've somehow lost my AC power cord for the 3DA-1 adapter kit









I've tried searching on-line for a replacement part or finding something that would work with it, with no luck. The back of it says, 5V 2A, I found an external HDD power supply that fits the spec but the input doesn't fit the 3DA-1.


Anyone have any ideas I can try?

Thanks,


----------



## tlogan6797

Much as I hate to recommend it, Rat Shack has a power supply that can be set to several different amps&voltages and comes with a bunch of different connectors. ONE of them should work.


----------



## briankstan

I'm looking at a could of splitters from monoprice and I'm wondering what ones you guys have used in conjunction with the 3DC-1000 adapter. I'll be running the 1 line from my receiver to the splitter, then on one output directly to the TV, the other output will run to the 3DC, then to the second input on the TV.


I'm looking for one that is auto switching so I don't have keep switching it manually when I want to watch a 3D movie.


here are the ones I'm looking at.

1X2 PRO Series Powered HDMI Splitter (1.3b ATC Certified) 


and this one.

1x4 HDMI Mini Splitter w/ 3D Support


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *briankstan* /forum/post/19819960
> 
> 
> I'm looking at a could of splitters from monoprice and I'm wondering what ones you guys have used in conjunction with the 3DC-1000 adapter. I'll be running the 1 line from my receiver to the splitter, then on one output directly to the TV, the other output will run to the 3DC, then to the second input on the TV.
> 
> 
> I'm looking for one that is auto switching so I don't have keep switching it manually when I want to watch a 3D movie.
> 
> 
> here are the ones I'm looking at.
> 
> 1X2 PRO Series Powered HDMI Splitter (1.3b ATC Certified)
> 
> 
> and this one.
> 
> 1x4 HDMI Mini Splitter w/ 3D Support



I bought the 4 x 2 to send one HDMI out to the 3D adapter and the other 'back' to my receiver to get lossless audio for PS3 3D games.


----------



## TheCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Daniel Murray* /forum/post/19817784
> 
> 
> I am having a hard time finding the link HDCP Stripper capabilities. I must be mising it some how.



I am making an assumption (which could be wrong...) that this device

http://www.gefen.com/kvm/dproduct.jsp?prod_id=8005 


is achieving its goal by supplying either saved HDCP information or its own HDCP information to the source HDMI device. (though from other posts, I suspect it is its own HDCP information - I really doubt anyone would actually advertise if their comercial device did HDCP stripping...)


It sounds like this device is expecting to be connected to HDMI target devices that don't always renegotiate their HDCP information when new devices are turned on or connected... (I have suspected my Mitsubushi of not renegotiating HDCP, when powered on devices are switched on one of its HDMI ports, but the HDMI port wasn't currently active when they were switched).


In either case, I have read a few other posts, where people were able to get 3D to work, on devices that weren't passing back the proper TV/EDID, by using this device.


I suspect this will only work, if you are sure your problem is HDCP. And you are sure that your video card is HDCP compatible. If the problem is that your video card isn't HDCP compatible, this probably won't help.


When you play 2D DRM protected media, were you able to determine if your TV was running at a full 1080p?


I was just looking at my NVidia control panel... There is a page on the advanced settings for HDCP Status. It indicates that my Mitsubishi TV and my Video card are both HDCP compatible. Do you have a similar page available on your machine? If you do, and both your devices are HDCP compatible, I doubt if this device will help...


----------



## TheCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheCatcher* /forum/post/19824751
> 
> 
> I am making an assumption (which could be wrong...) that this device
> 
> http://www.gefen.com/kvm/dproduct.jsp?prod_id=8005
> 
> 
> is achieving its goal by supplying either saved HDCP information or its own HDCP information to the source HDMI device. (though from other posts, I suspect it is its own HDCP information - I really doubt anyone would actually advertise if their comercial device did HDCP stripping...)



Getting old is a pain (but still better than the alternative)... I just remembered, a friend of mine used one of these devices. It doesn't have its own HDCP information, it records the TV/EDID information and retransmits it when needed.


He used it to correct an issue, that sounds, very similar to yours. He was unable to watch 3D ESPN TV through his AverTV HD DVR. This device fixed it for him. In his case, both devices were HDCP compliant. When the player was run, it must not have been able to get the information it needed from the TV, because it wouldn't allow the 3D DRM media to play.


----------



## jcapone

Hello,


I just recently bought a wd65837 that I think is a 2009. I have tried to search thru this thread and others to find the best way to get the 3d working on this set. Is the only option for this tv to get the adapter or starter kit to get it to work? Will the Samsung glasses work on this set? Does the PS3 work with this? Any help is appreciated.


----------



## dhvsfan

Quote:

Originally Posted by *jcapone* 
Hello,


I just recently bought a wd65837 that I think is a 2009. I have tried to search thru this thread and others to find the best way to get the 3d working on this set. Is the only option for this tv to get the adapter or starter kit to get it to work? Will the Samsung glasses work on this set? Does the PS3 work with this? Any help is appreciated.
The Mits 3D is checkerboard which is NOT a standard format. A few Panasonic Blu-Ray players can output checkerboard. I don't know the details for your exact set. Samsung glasses work on the Mits and Mits glasses work on the Samsung (active shutter of course). I have my PS3 connected to the adapter and have played a couple of IMAX 3D movies. I did have to fiddle with the Adapters settings though.


----------



## kjroddy

The 65837 DOES require the converter for anything apart from the Panasonic checkerboard BD players. It also requires an emitter (which comes in the starter kit and is difficult to find elsewhere at a sensible price at the moment) unless you use DLP-Link glasses... once you have the emitter you can use Samsung as well as Mitsubishi glasses.


----------



## Milmanias




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jcapone* /forum/post/19830089
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> I just recently bought a wd65837 that I think is a 2009. I have tried to search thru this thread and others to find the best way to get the 3d working on this set. Is the only option for this tv to get the adapter or starter kit to get it to work? Will the Samsung glasses work on this set? Does the PS3 work with this? Any help is appreciated.



Don't get the kit; get the adapter instead and go dlp-link glasses on your tv instead; they'll give you better PQ on your set.


If you only want movies, the Panasonic players like dhvsfan suggested, or a pc, is all you need. If you want a cable/satellite company's 3D offerings, or Xbox/PS3 games, then you'll need the adapter.


----------



## jcapone

Thanks everyone.. I have a htpc and a 360.. I will just update my blu ray drive to 3d and get the adapter.. is the going price on ebay still around $100? Is there a good brand for dlp link that I should get?


----------



## pmalter0




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jcapone* /forum/post/19836832
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone.. I have a htpc and a 360.. I will just update my blu ray drive to 3d and get the adapter.. is the going price on ebay still around $100? Is there a good brand for dlp link that I should get?



The $59 UltraClears appear to be the best buy.


----------



## Daniel Murray

How do Ultra Clears comepair to ViewSonic?


----------



## hoddy4

The Viewsonics produce a nice picture but all of them crack at the ear on the side piece because of a design/material flaw. On a different subject, has anyone noticed that some of the glasses received from Mits actually say Samsung on the glasses and some do not? I realize that they are all made by Samsung but the ones with Samsung on the glasses seem to produce a brighter picture. Has anyone else noticed this?


----------



## Jamieb81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoddy4* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> The Viewsonics produce a nice picture but all of them crack at the ear on the side piece because of a design/material flaw. On a different subject, has anyone noticed that some of the glasses received from Mits actually say Samsung on the glasses and some do not? I realize that they are all made by Samsung but the ones with Samsung on the glasses seem to produce a brighter picture. Has anyone else noticed this?



The ones I received with the Mits 3DC-1000 kit do not have a name just a serial number. I love the results I get with them after wearing those paper glasses with some of the first 3D movies that first came out,these rock.


----------



## hoddy4

The ones that I received with the Mits kits also do not have the name Samsung printed on them. The 2 pair of glasses that I received with the other Mits promotion (just glasses, no kit) do.


----------



## hoddy4

Vudu seems to have some 3D movies available, but when I try to see them I get a message that my Mits 73738 can't show them at this time. Anyone know what is going on? Also, does Netflix have any 3D movies?


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoddy4* /forum/post/19843498
> 
> 
> Vudu seems to have some 3D movies available, but when I try to see them I get a message that my Mits 73738 can't show them at this time. Anyone know what is going on? Also, does Netflix have any 3D movies?



No 3D from Netflix. I called them a few months ago to ask about getting them. They said 'thank you for the suggestion.' But no 3D!


----------



## kjroddy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoddy4* /forum/post/19843498
> 
> 
> Vudu seems to have some 3D movies available, but when I try to see them I get a message that my Mits 73738 can't show them at this time.



The Vudu 3D service has only been active for a week or so and should probably be regarded as being a public beta test rather than an actual launch.


There is a fairly limited list of supported devices as yet, and Mits TVs are not on it - Vudu do seem to be listening to feedback and to be willing to work on getting as many devices as possible working as soon as possible.


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *kjroddy* /forum/post/19843781
> 
> 
> The Vudu 3D service has only been active for a week or so and should probably be regarded as being a public beta test rather than an actual launch.
> 
> 
> There is a fairly limited list of supported devices as yet, and Mits TVs are not on it - Vudu do seem to be listening to feedback and to be willing to work on getting as many devices as possible working as soon as possible.



If you have the 3D-ready TV as well as the correct player and the Adapter (glasses, etc.), you should be able to watch the Vudu 3D movies, IMHO.


----------



## hoddy4

For a while I've felt there was no reason to use anything except Netfix since it is so cheap and is trying to expand its digital library. Lately. I've started to reconsider VUDU because of its more current releases, 3D, and possibly better picture.


----------



## hoddy4




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/19844130
> 
> 
> If you have the 3D-ready TV as well as the correct player and the Adapter (glasses, etc.), you should be able to watch the Vudu 3D movies, IMHO.



By the correct player, do you mean the correct version of Vudu and Mits firmware? You shouldn't need another device to make it work since the Mits TV already has VUDU.


----------



## lujan

Quote:

Originally Posted by *hoddy4* 
By the correct player, do you mean the correct version of Vudu and Mits firmware? You shouldn't need another device to make it work since the Mits TV already has VUDU.
Oh yeah, if you're TV is internet enabled, then you wouldn't but why would you want to use the TV anyway for audio? Will the TV pass HD audio through to the A/V receiver? I'm talking about a 3D blu-ray player such as the Panasonic 300/350.


----------



## groggrog

Your opinions on the movie aside, I bought the Piranha 3D Bluray today to view with my Mitsubishi 3D starter kit. The 3D video is unwatchable - everything has a jagged edge, something very strange about it. The Disney demo disc that comes with the kit works fine. Could it be in a format that's not supported by the Mitsubishi 3D kit?


Thanks


----------



## Wryker

Quote:

Originally Posted by *groggrog* 
Your opinions on the movie aside, I bought the Piranha 3D Bluray today to view with my Mitsubishi 3D starter kit. The 3D video is unwatchable - everything has a jagged edge, something very strange about it. The Disney demo disc that comes with the kit works fine. Could it be in a format that's not supported by the Mitsubishi 3D kit?


Thanks
The point of the 3D adapter is that it works with all 3D formats.


----------



## groggrog

Any thoughts on why it works with the Disney sampler disc but not Piranha 3D?


----------



## hoddy4

Quote:

Originally Posted by *groggrog* 
Your opinions on the movie aside, I bought the Piranha 3D Bluray today to view with my Mitsubishi 3D starter kit. The 3D video is unwatchable - everything has a jagged edge, something very strange about it. The Disney demo disc that comes with the kit works fine. Could it be in a format that's not supported by the Mitsubishi 3D kit?


Thanks
The movie is most likely in the side by side format. Set both the TV and adapter to that format and see if it makes a difference.


----------



## Wryker

Quote:

Originally Posted by *groggrog* 
Any thoughts on why it works with the Disney sampler disc but not Piranha 3D?
If you have the adapter depending on the model of your set turn on 3D on the TV (either "Game" mode or "3D" mode set to "on") then use the adapter remote to 'cycle' through the 3D modes. (side by side, top/bottom, etc).


----------



## pmalter0

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Daniel Murray* 
How do Ultra Clears comepair to ViewSonic?
Comparable picture and are smaller(but if you wear prescription glasses--the Viewsonics are better--I have a pair of each).


----------



## RDKing2

So I finally got the 3d working through my new Yamaha receiver + mits 837 + 3DA-1. Had both the outputs from the receiver on and had to configure so output 1 is on during normal viewing and output 2 is on in 3d. The reason for wanting a receiver with dual outputs is the signal through the 3DA-1 seems flakey even in normal non 3D mode. Contrast is almost non adjustable. Adjustment does not even make a difference till turned all the way down and that is not watchable. All the colors are clipping like crazy when the adapter is in the signal chain, again adjustment seems futile. Is this normal with the 3DA-1 or is mine bad? TIA


Richard


----------



## nc88keyz

You are correct, The Mits adapter is a POS. It crushes blacks etc. However what you are doing is working great for me. I use HDMI2 for the adapter and HDMI1 for the output off my denon AVR4311CI , and could not be happier not having that craptastic box in the chain for my other sources.


----------



## Buddyl33




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *hoddy4* /forum/post/19843498
> 
> 
> Vudu seems to have some 3D movies available, but when I try to see them I get a message that my Mits 73738 can't show them at this time. Anyone know what is going on? Also, does Netflix have any 3D movies?



I got this message to the other night when fiddling around with it.


----------



## TheCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Daniel Murray* /forum/post/19841662
> 
> 
> How do Ultra Clears comepair to ViewSonic?



I can't compare the Ultra Clears to the ViewSonic 3D Glasses, since I don't have a pair of the Viewsonic 3D Glasses. But I can give you my 2 cents about the DLP Link Ultra Clears.


I received my DLP Link Ultra Clears a couple of weeks ago. When I received them, I only had the NVidia 3D Glasses to compare them to, but the DLP Link Ultra Clears live up to their name. They are noticeably clearer than the NVidia 3D Glasses.


On the downside, the DLP Link Ultra Clears have a definite top to bottom gradient shading to them. When I look through the top (or bottom?) part of the glasses, there is an orange tint. When I look through the other part (bottom or top?) there is a blue tint. Looking through the center of the glasses seems to be tint free. The shading doesn't appear to be related to the TV Screen, since it also appears when looking at other objects in the room. It isn't terrible, but on occasion, I have noticed it enough to readjust my head, to avoid it.


In comparison, I haven't noticed any top to bottom or side to side gradient shading on any of my other 3D glasses. I have 1 pair of NVidia 3D Glasses, 2 (soon to be 4) pairs of repaired Panasonic battery powered 3D glasses. 1 pair of repaired Samsung rechargeable glasses. And by the end of today, (with any luck) 1 pair of repaired Samsung battery powered glasses. And close to a dozen Elsa era wired and wireless style 3d glasses. (obviously, I found a source for busted 3D glasses...)


For my money, even with the top to bottom gradient shading, the DLP Link Ultra Clears are still an excellent deal. I will probably be buying a couple more within the next couple of weeks.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *TheCatcher* /forum/post/19850660
> 
> 
> I can't compare the Ultra Clears to the ViewSonic 3D Glasses, since I don't have a pair of the Viewsonic 3D Glasses. But I can give you my 2 cents about the DLP Link Ultra Clears...



Have you noticed a polarization rainbow with these? If not, have you noticed polarization rainbows with any other DLP Link glasses that you may have tried?


Also, do they completely block the DLP Link flash so that colors (especially black) are true? All other DLP Link glasses seem to do so, so I'm guessing these do as well.


So far, the only DLP Link glasses to avoid the rainbows (for those of us who have the rainbow issue) that I am aware of are CE5s, which cost about 3 times as much. I really like my CE5s, but would be nice to get 3 more pairs of glasses for guests to use for the price of one CE5.


Also, do they having options that allow for dual view (like the CE5s and optomas) or for left-right reversal (like the viewsonics)?


----------



## TheCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19850843
> 
> 
> Have you noticed a polarization rainbow with these? If not, have you noticed polarization rainbows with any other DLP Link glasses that you may have tried?



I initially thought I might be seeing the rainbows, but it turned out to be the gradient shading. If it is generating rainbows, it hasn't been drastic enough to get my attention. But, since I have been playing with 3D shutter glasses since 15 fps was considered good, I might not be as critical as others...


When I get home this afternoon, I will do a white screen test. I have seen the rainbows on high speed LCD monitors and the old Elsa era 3D glasses.


I've only used the Samsung and Panasonic glasses, when I took them into Best Buy to see if I successfully fixed them... I would like to think that if the TV maker makes the glasses, they would make sure to align the polarization of the lenses properly, so they don't produce the rainbows, on their own TVs...


If I succeed at reprogramming some of these Panasonic glasses, to work with DLP Link and my my Mitsubishi. If they have rainbowing with the Mitsubishi, it could become an issue... (the Panasonic glasses use PIC24F processors, and it looks like they have solder pads to access the programming pins!)



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19850843
> 
> 
> Also, do they completely block the DLP Link flash so that colors (especially black) are true? All other DLP Link glasses seem to do so, so I'm guessing these do as well.



I have to say yes to this. They do an excellent job blocking the DLP Link flashes. The blacks are black and the colors are vivid. In comparison, the Elsa era glasses that don't block the DLP Link flashes produce an amazingly washed out 3D image...



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19850843
> 
> 
> So far, the only DLP Link glasses to avoid the rainbows (for those of us who have the rainbow issue) that I am aware of are CE5s, which cost about 3 times as much. I really like my CE5s, but would be nice to get 3 more pairs of glasses for guests to use for the price of one CE5.



Agreed, I wouldn't mind having a pair of CE5s for myself. But my wife doesn't even understand why we need UCs for guests. She would go crazy if I suggested buying 4 pairs of CE5s.



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19850843
> 
> 
> Also, do they having options that allow for dual view (like the CE5s and optomas) or for left-right reversal (like the viewsonics)?



I didn't see anything in the documentation about swapping the right and left eye. This was a feature that was important to me, since I wanted to use the UCs with my NVida 3D Glasses. Other posts led me to believe the NVidia 3D Glasses wouldn't be in sync with standard DLP Link glasses. It turned out the DLP Link Ultra Clears are in sync with the NVidia 3D Glasses. But the UCs don't seem to be able to tolerate the NVidia 3D Glasses emitter's flashes. It causes the UCs to temporarily toggle off. So I can't use them together... (I've tried some IR blocking elements, but I haven't found anything that blocks enough of the IR and allows enough of the DLP Link flash).


To check for swapping, I tried holding the on / off button in for a few seconds. But that just turned the glasses off (something I also didn't see mentioned in the documentation...).


I didn't realize the CE5s had dual view... Thats a cool feature.


----------



## paper112

Hi ,i hope I am not getting off topic here . Being new I am not really sure whats going on. lol. I own a Sammy hl-t5676s 3d dlp. I have been looking at the 3da-1 kits with hdmi detective, but have had trouble finding a nicer set of glasses. My question is will this kit (3dc-100)with the glasses work for my sammy if I use hdmi detective instead of tryin to peice together kits from xpand or buying those hideous samsung dlp glasses I am seeing everywhere. Or if someone has a sammy could you please direct me as to where to find a good set of IR glasses with emitter. I would like to buy this set but not sure and really dont have the money to waiste if something goes horribly wrong. If anyone can help, thanks


----------



## jjknatl

Will the UC-DLP LInk work in the presence of the Mits emitter? My CE5s do work with the Mits emitter on. Of course, the Mits/Sammy glasses sync opposite the CE5s so in order for them to work together would have to use an emitter inverter, which I will likely do at some point since my daughter likes her Samsung kids glasses and I can't bear to use my Mits kit glasses now that I have the CE5s.


----------



## briankstan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RDKing2* /forum/post/19846787
> 
> 
> So I finally got the 3d working through my new Yamaha receiver + mits 837 + 3DA-1. Had both the outputs from the receiver on and had to configure so output 1 is on during normal viewing and output 2 is on in 3d. The reason for wanting a receiver with dual outputs is the signal through the 3DA-1 seems flakey even in normal non 3D mode. Contrast is almost non adjustable. Adjustment does not even make a difference till turned all the way down and that is not watchable. All the colors are clipping like crazy when the adapter is in the signal chain, again adjustment seems futile. Is this normal with the 3DA-1 or is mine bad? TIA
> 
> 
> Richard



My receiver only has one output so this is what I'm going to try. I ordered a HDMI splitter from monoprice.com and I'm going to wire it up as shown in the picture. then when watching regular 2d TV I'll use input 1, and when watching a 3D show I can simply change the input to input 2 that will have the mits 3D adapter in the loop. I'll post back if everything works as it should.... Hopefully this will get rid of the problems I'm having when watching non 3D programs and the delay in changing resolutions and the random black screens and washed out screens.


----------



## Paul McPherson

I am in the process of upgrading my mistsu diamond wd-73835 to 3d via the ir emitter instead of the adapter so I can use my samsung 3d glasses from my 7000 series LED on both TVs.


Is there a noticeable difference in pq on the 2008 dlp TVs when using one type of 3d glasses vs. the other (i.e. dlp link vs. ir)?


I am hoping they are identical so i won't have t buy both kinds.


----------



## walford

If you are not going to use the adapter how are you can send 3D checkerboard content to your TV so you then can use either DLP-Link glasses or Mits IR glasses and the Mits IR emitter.


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Paul McPherson* /forum/post/19853289
> 
> 
> I am in the process of upgrading my mistsu diamond wd-73835 to 3d via the ir emitter instead of the adapter so I can use my samsung 3d glasses from my 7000 series LED on both TVs.
> 
> 
> Is there a noticeable difference in pq on the 2008 dlp TVs when using one type of 3d glasses vs. the other (i.e. dlp link vs. ir)?
> 
> 
> I am hoping they are identical so i won't have t buy both kinds.



I have a Mits WD-73735 with the 3DC adapter and a Samsung PN50C8000. I can use the Mits glasses that came with the 3DC adapter, a couple Samsung glasses bought off the rack and the pair that came with the Shrek starter pack on either set. Being able to use the glasses on either set was one reason I went with the Samsung when it was time to get another set.


----------



## RDKing2

I picked up an HDMI coupler so I could remove the 3DA-1 and leave all the cables, equipment etc. where they are. Removed the adapter and installed the coupler in its place. Picture and adjustments are normal. Put the adapter back in and the problems are there, even in normal mode and 3D turned off in the tv. I may try to call Mitsubishi tomorrow and see what they say. Have to try and find the receipt for Fry's. Got the 3DC-1000 kit from them on special and it was an open item missing the HDMI cable. Was only $200 though and that is why I bought it.


----------



## Paul McPherson




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19853370
> 
> 
> If you are not going to use the adapter how are you can send 3D checkerboard content to your TV so you then can use either DLP-Link glasses or Mits IR glasses and the Mits IR emitter.



Sorry. I should have been clearer. I have a Panny DMP-BDT-100 or DirecTV (with adapter).


----------



## TheCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl* /forum/post/19850843
> 
> 
> Have you noticed a polarization rainbow with these? If not, have you noticed polarization rainbows with any other DLP Link glasses that you may have tried?



I'm not noticing any rainbowing with DLP Link Ultra Clears. I'm noticing a lot of rainbowing with the turned off, Panasonics viewing the Mitsubishi TV. I tried the DLP Link Ultra Clears both shuttering running and turned off, with an all white screen. And with the exception of the blue tint through the top of the lenses and the orange tint through the bottom. I didn't see any of the rainbow style discolorations.


I also tried viewing my Mitsubishi with the Samsung rechargeable 3D glasses, the Panasonic battery powered 3D glasses, and the NVidia 3D Vision glasses (all turned off). Unfortunately, when I view the screen at an angle through the Panasonic glasses, I see a lot of rainbowing. But like the UCs, when I used the Samsung and the NVidia glasses, I didn't notice any rainbowing.


None of the other pairs have the top to bottom discoloration that the UCs have.


When viewing a Chuck Lorre Vanity card through the glasses, it is obvious that these are not optically pure glasses. When I move my head around, with all the pairs of glasses, I could clearly see imperfections and distortions.


I think I will stick with my original plan and within a week or 2, pick up a couple more of the DLP Link Ultra Clears.


----------



## hoddy4

I've been corresponding with Vudu tech. support the past couple of days. Vudu 3D is not yet available for Mits. and they couldn't provide a date when it will be. It is supposedly available for Samsung products and the PS3. I asked them about specific Samsung blu ray players such as the C6800 and they responded that it should work. I don't have the player so I can't tell. It looks like they are a little ahead of themselves in promoting their 3D, but in the end it should be great for us Mits. users.


----------



## Mark Kennison

I need the Firmware update and have tried all the links in the forum and have not found a working link. Does anyone still have this update. If so please PM me. Any help would be appreciated...


Thanks,

Mark.


----------



## Bulls729




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mark Kennison* /forum/post/19878708
> 
> 
> I need the Firmware update and have tried all the links in the forum and have not found a working link. Does anyone still have this update. If so please PM me. Any help would be appreciated...
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mark.



I Google'd that for you HERE , Google is a webpage that resides outside of AVS, can you believe that?!


Which brought me to this link here 


Within that page I found the update file and instructions. I went ahead and put the file on a mirror to save you the trouble.


Mirror: MediaFire 


Not only that I copied and pasted the installation instructions:


"get or borrow a USB thumb drive to put the files onto. The drive should be formatted as FAT(32) filesystem. If you aren't sure, just copy the contents off your favorite thumb drive, and reformat it as FAT. You can easily re-format and copy your files back onto it after you're done (in 4 minutes from now).


It doesn't matter what your thumb drive's volume name is -- I named mine WD73833-903 and it worked fine.


Next, unzip the file you downloaded above onto the top level of the thumb drive. (In other words, either copy the ZIP file on the thumb drive and deflate it in-place, or deflate it on your computer's hard drive in a folder and then drag/copy the contents of that folder to the top level of the thumb drive volume.)


Eject the thumb drive gracefully from your computer, but do not plug it into the TV yet. The TV must be powered off before you plug it in. (It turns out the TV looks for new firmware on the USB port only during its power-up cycle, read on.)


Next, unplug the TV from the wall (not kidding; just turning it off won't work). If you want to gracefully shut the TV down, that's fine, wait until it's completely powered off before unplugging it. Just whatever you do, don't plug the thumb drive into the USB port until you've unplugged the TV from the power outlet.


With the TV unplugged, put the thumb drive you copied the files onto above into the front USB port (just inside the door on the front of the TV where the other front-loading ports and controls are).


Plug the TV back in (but do not turn it on). Immediately, because the thumb drive is plugged in, you'll see the timer light start flashing rapidly. This indicates that the thumb drive was successfully mounted and that the TV is applying the firmware update automatically (you don't have to do anything else, just wait). Note: if you plug the TV in and the timer light doesn't start flashing within a few seconds, check that you correctly pushed the thumb drive all the way into the USB port and then unplug and re-plug in to the power.


Wait patiently for approximately 3 minutes -- you'll get no feedback aside from the flashing timer light (and if your USB thumb drive has a light, you may see the light flickering meaning that it's being read).


Once the firmware upgrade is installed, the TV will power up automatically (you do not have to turn it on, it will just come on).


At this point, you'll have 9.03 assuming all went correctly. You can confirm this once the TV is warmed up, by clicking menu on the remote, and looking in the upper right side; it should say 9.03.


At this point you should no longer see the blue screen when you are using the 3D adaptor. Getting it to actually work is a whole separate issue, not covered here. This is just for updating the firmware. Good luck with actually enjoying 3D from Playstation III, DirecTV HR21 and above, and other non-checkerboard sources.


Please help out your fellow 73833 owners -- unlike all the folks in the past who've just posted that they got it working without saying how or providing the damned zip file (!!) -- please actually link to this post if it worked for you, and to the corresponding ZIP file, so we can get the word out. Mitsubishi should have put these instructions online long ago, and should have included this and a warning about the need to upgrade the TV's firmware in their compatibility information for the 3D adaptor. It's hard to understand why they didn't, since it's so easy to do this if they just gave you a simple download. So please help me help everyone like me and post the link to this everywhere you can. If Mitsubishi is unhappy about that, I'm sorry for them."

*/Sarcasm*


----------



## j007m

Mitsubishi 3DC-1000 3D HDTV Starter Pack

by Mitsubishi

4.3 out of 5 stars See all reviews (59 customer reviews)

Like (4)

List Price: $399.00

Price: $333.27 & this item ships for FREE with Super Saver Shipping. Details

You Save: $65.73 (16%)

In Stock.


Mitsubishi 3DC-1000 3D HDTV Starter Pack


On sale at amazon Price: $333.27

http://www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-3DC...4M1XHS2K91M8GJ


----------



## cakefoo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *j007m* /forum/post/19880156
> 
> 
> Mitsubishi 3DC-1000 3D HDTV Starter Pack
> 
> by Mitsubishi
> 
> 4.3 out of 5 stars See all reviews (59 customer reviews)
> 
> Like (4)
> 
> List Price: $399.00
> 
> Price: $333.27 & this item ships for FREE with Super Saver Shipping. Details
> 
> You Save: $65.73 (16%)
> 
> In Stock.
> 
> 
> Mitsubishi 3DC-1000 3D HDTV Starter Pack
> 
> 
> On sale at amazon Price: $333.27
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-3DC...4M1XHS2K91M8GJ



It's $326.01 now.


----------



## jason02

I'm selling my 3-d starter pack for $300 when it arrives in the mail...Should be a couple of more weeks. If anyone is interested, let me know.


----------



## RDKing2

What purpose does the in - out interconnect for the emitter serve on the 3DA-1? I notice that the emitter does not work when only plugged into the adapter. Works when plugged into the tv and when the cable from tv to emitter and emitter into adapter. Just an extension? When I plugged the cable from tv to emitter some picture problems I was having were cleared up. But when I went back to plugged emitter into tv only the problems were still mostly gone. Leads me to believe I had faulty connection in my HDMI cables or the emitter cable serves some sort of sync action.


----------



## walford

The emitter has to receive its input from the TV either directly or from a cable from the TV to the adapter. AFAIK the only advantage of not connecting it directly to the TV is that is that it will not be turned off when the adapter is not being used for 3D content.


----------



## sarasotabill

Good morning,


I am sorry if this is in the wrong place, still figuring out the AVS forums. I've read them a long time but never had the need to post or the expertise to offer any help beyond what was already offered to others. Please feel free to move post to correct place if needed.


I have a wd73c9 and the 3dc-1000, a PS3 and a vsx1120 and Fios. I had been having tons of issues so Verizon came out and swapped my old hd/dvr for a new one model QIP7232 2 which looks nice but still does the same things as the old one.


I have the mits adapter hooked up with the hdmi out from the vsx1120 and the adapter output hdmi to the tv. My PS3 is connected via hdmi to the bluray input of the vsx1120 and the fios box is connected to the hdmi1 port of the vsx1120. My PS3 works fine but I can't switch to Fios with this configuration. I had the other Fios box hooked up via component video cables and optical audio and it worked okay, it even diplayed 3d that way but it was not totally correct so hoping a new box would fix it but it has not. All my hdmi cables are high speed with ethernet from monoprice btw.


I may be able to return the TV but not sure if I can or even want to. If I don't return the TV what is my best alternative to get this working right? I have a total of 7 3d glasses as the two that came with the kit and then I have purchased two samsung 3d starter kits to obtain movies and 4 more sets of glasses and I have a pair of samsung childs glasses so I either want to stay with mits or switch to samsung unless there is a strong reason not to. I can deal with some frustration trying to get things working but at least need to have the hope in the end it will work properly.


Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## briankstan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *briankstan* /forum/post/19852233



Well I received my splitter, now I'm having a different issue, I've set everything up as the picture above, but it seem that now I'm having a EDID issues and my HR24-500 receiver now doen't recognize my TV as being 3D capable. I can pass the 3D through the splitter no problem when coming from my PS3, I can play 3D movies without a problem. but the without the the satelite receiver not recognizing my TV as 3D means that it doesn't allow me to watch the 3D channels.


Anyone have any ideas on how to make this work? it's really becoming a pain in the @ss at this point.


I'm thinking that if I add a Gefen HDMI Detective between the DVR and the Receiver so it thinks it's connected directly to the 3DC-1000 adapter might be the final piece of my puzzle. yikes !!!


----------



## walford

It appears that your receiver is not passing the EDID info from your selected splitter output connection to your PVR or PS3 put instead it is just passing supplying it's own EDID data.


----------



## briankstan

Quote:

Originally Posted by *walford* 
It appears that your receiver is not passing the EDID info from your selected splitter output connection to your PVR or PS3 put instead it is just passing supplying it's own EDID data.
the receiver passed the EDID just fine, until the splitter was added into the mix. I was trying to bypass the 3DC adapter when not watching 3D as it causes loose of audio, random blank boxes, and a picture that looks like a photo negative.


I'd assume that the splitter is what is stopping the EDID signal from reaching the DVR. (directv receiver).


I contacted mono price and the suggested that the High speed HDMI cables (28 awg) also purchased from them were not high enough gauge wire. they suggested 24 awg cables. Would you think this would cause an EDID issue? All cables being used are 3ft or 6ft. cables so nothing very long.


----------



## walford

Unless the cables are over 15 feet they are certainly not the cause of your problems.


You are correct the splitter or your set up of its is what is causing your problem.


----------



## briankstan

I'll try a few other things, Maybe having the TV on and set to the input that has the 3DC on it prior to turning on the AV receiver and the Directv receiver might solve the issue?


I thought the HDMI cables were suppose to make things easier?


----------



## RDKing2

You are having the same problem I was. You have the splitter hooked up to one 3d compliant input (HDMI2) and one that is non 3d compliant (HDMI1) The splitter is not blocking the edid info from the unused input, defaulting the lowest common specs, no 3D. If you want to use this splitter and this setup I suggest programming the info from the 3DA-1 input (after the splitter) into a Geffen and place it after the splitter on the HDMI1 input. You can place the Geffen after the component but it will tell the device to only pass audio that the tv can handle resulting in 2 channel audio. After the splitter will work fine. BTW the PS3 seems to "remember" that it was hooked to a 3D device that is why there is not a problem with it.


----------



## briankstan

so it look like it boils down to spending some more money to make it work as it should have anyways. I was thinking I was going to need to get the gefen, but hoping against it. I've already spend more than I wanted to on this setup. But I need to make is as simple to operate as possible to make the wife happy, without spending to much more because that will make her not happy. it's a fine line


----------



## NSX1992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sarasotabill* /forum/post/19885344
> 
> 
> Good morning,
> 
> 
> I am sorry if this is in the wrong place, still figuring out the AVS forums. I've read them a long time but never had the need to post or the expertise to offer any help beyond what was already offered to others. Please feel free to move post to correct place if needed.
> 
> 
> I have a wd73c9 and the 3dc-1000, a PS3 and a vsx1120 and Fios. I had been having tons of issues so Verizon came out and swapped my old hd/dvr for a new one model QIP7232 2 which looks nice but still does the same things as the old one.
> 
> 
> I have the mits adapter hooked up with the hdmi out from the vsx1120 and the adapter output hdmi to the tv. My PS3 is connected via hdmi to the bluray input of the vsx1120 and the fios box is connected to the hdmi1 port of the vsx1120. My PS3 works fine but I can't switch to Fios with this configuration. I had the other Fios box hooked up via component video cables and optical audio and it worked okay, it even diplayed 3d that way but it was not totally correct so hoping a new box would fix it but it has not. All my hdmi cables are high speed with ethernet from monoprice btw.
> 
> 
> I may be able to return the TV but not sure if I can or even want to. If I don't return the TV what is my best alternative to get this working right? I have a total of 7 3d glasses as the two that came with the kit and then I have purchased two samsung 3d starter kits to obtain movies and 4 more sets of glasses and I have a pair of samsung childs glasses so I either want to stay with mits or switch to samsung unless there is a strong reason not to. I can deal with some frustration trying to get things working but at least need to have the hope in the end it will work properly.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.



Is vsx1120 an AVR? If so I could not hook up FIOS to my AVR I used a slpitter and bypassed the AVR for video and used optical cable for sound to AVR.


----------



## sarasotabill

Sorry. Yes the vsx1120 is a pioneer avr that is supposed to be fully compliant with 3d and the hdmi specs associated with what that entails. Thanks for the suggestion.


I have read tons of the mits threads on here and it seems that this adapter is the problem with most issues, or at least a gremlin that furthers the problem. If I take it out of the mix, everything works fine, minus the 3d of course but that was a huge factor in purchasing this model television. I have only gotten the response I have after asking who was the registered agent for Mitsubishi and the dealer I bought the tv and adapter from in case I decided to take the issue to small claims court. Prior to asking that question, it was hold for 2-3 minutes and we will escalate and call you back in 1-2 business days. That went on for nearly two months.


Thanks again.


----------



## walford




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sarasotabill* /forum/post/19887684
> 
> 
> Sorry. Yes the vsx1120 is a pioneer avr that is supposed to be fully compliant with 3d and the hdmi specs associated with what that entails. Thanks for the suggestion.
> 
> 
> I have read tons of the mits threads on here and it seems that this adapter is the problem with most issues, or at least a gremlin that furthers the problem. If I take it out of the mix, everything works fine, minus the 3d of course but that was a huge factor in purchasing this model television. I have only gotten the response I have after asking who was the registered agent for Mitsubishi and the dealer I bought the tv and adapter from in case I decided to take the issue to small claims court. Prior to asking that question, it was hold for 2-3 minutes and we will escalate and call you back in 1-2 business days. That went on for nearly two months.
> 
> 
> Thanks again.




Fully complient with 3D implies that the the receiver will pass all HMDI 1.4a 3D formats upsteam form sourse to destinations. However it does not also mean that EDID data from any upsteam destination to any source trying to connect to it instead of providing it;s own EDID info and this is where most "3D" capable recievers fail.


----------



## sarasotabill




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *walford* /forum/post/19888341
> 
> 
> Fully complient with 3D implies that the the receiver will pass all HMDI 1.4a 3D formats upsteam form sourse to destinations. However it does not also mean that EDID data from any upsteam destination to any source trying to connect to it instead of providing it;s own EDID info and this is where most "3D" capable recievers fail.



You seem to be very informed with regard to this stuff. Thank you for that explanation, (even though it may as well have been greek to me) but isn't that where HDMI pass thru comes in? This AVR is not badged Elite but it is essentially the same as a mid level Pioneer Elite, at least from what I was told and researched prior to buying it.


I am the furthest thing from any sort of phile, so I really am confused - even more than I thought I was.


I have asked the question of Mitsubishi "what AVR does work with your components"? since it says in thier own material that the adapter will work with some but not all AVR's and they could/would not provide an answer. I got AMEX involved and it was only through thier urging did Mits even send someone out to my home, a electronics repair man from a local shop. What a joke that was... The guy shows up and says "oh wow that is a big tv do you need glasses for that thing to show 3d?" I gave him a pair of glasses and turned on the ps3 with HTTYD and he said "why is it still all fuzzy?" I had to tell him to turn on the glasses. Then he says, "WOW I COULD GET USED TO THIS" I had to assume he had never seen an in home 3d probably based on his visit. This was the person Mits decided to come troubleshoot my setup, REALLY??? That is a couple hours of my life I can't get back.


Thanks again.


----------



## RDKing2

You mentioned that you had the Fios box hooked up with component. Did you try the old or new Fios box straight to the adapter then into the tv via HDMI? Does it work? If so the problem is the AVR. I would bet you have had the PS3 hooked directly to the adapter at one time. For some reason the PS3 does not check for 3D compliance after it has been originally set up, may have something to do with being a software type BD player. So the PS3 working is no surprise if previously hooked up.


----------



## sarasotabill

Quote:

Originally Posted by *RDKing2* 
You mentioned that you had the Fios box hooked up with component. Did you try the old or new Fios box straight to the adapter then into the tv via HDMI? Does it work? If so the problem is the AVR. I would bet you have had the PS3 hooked directly to the adapter at one time. For some reason the PS3 does not check for 3D compliance after it has been originally set up, may have something to do with being a software type BD player. So the PS3 working is no surprise if previously hooked up.
Thanks for your reply. I appreciate everybody who has chimed in because it is helping me look at things I may not have thought of or at least take another look at things I may have glossed over thinking they were not too important.


I had my old fios box hooked via hdmi through my older Onkyo avr and it worked fine pre-adapter. Also while trying to troubleshoot this issue have had both the old and new fios boxes connected via hdmi to the new avr, without the adapter they both worked great (minus 3d of course). I had never tried connecting the fios directly to the adapter (at least I don't think I did), I could try that later on and see if it works but I don't understand what that would indicate. When I hook the adapter back in the mix and kaboom, no switching ability via the avr with hdmi but no problem via component.


I have seen people on here having multiple mits converter boxes but that does not seem right to me. The way I understand it, this device is supposed to take a 3d ready tv and make it 3d capable so unless I am missing something it should only require one mits box to do that not one box per source. My TV has 3 hdmi inputs so what if I had directv,fios,and a 3d bluray player, would I need 3 adapters to be able to watch 3d content from all 3 sources?


My assumption and I hate assuming but I still do it, would be that the majority of mits dlp owners probably have thier sets connected to some form of additional audio device rather than listening to a big nice tv through little tv speakers. I think Mitsubishi assumes that as well based on thier own printed materials and this adapter just seems to not be able to do what it is supposed to do. Even more to the point, I think this adapter is actually getting in the way of a easy way to make this work. That is not to say, I would have the slightest clue how to make anything better. To me this is all like a bag of magic beans, I don't know how they work, I'm just glad they do. In this case my beans are not so magical.


I don't recall hooking the PS3 directly through the adapter but with all the ways that mits phone tech support had me hook things up, it is very likely it did get connected that way at least once. I have had two mits adapters btw, the 1st one I had did the same things this one does and I exchanged it thinking I got a bad unit. I guess it's possible I could have gotten two bad units but that to me seems a bit of a stretch. I have tried several different brands of AVR's trying to resolve this and all of them have been 3d and 1.4 compliant.


Thanks again.


----------



## sarasotabill

I guess my issues have been resolved. AMEX has concluded that the devices that were sold (TV and required adapter) do not achieve the definition of fully and properly functional as represented. Based on that, as of today AMEX has issued a credit to me for the total amount I spent on the tv including the delivery fee, as well as the starter kit. They have informed the merchant of this and now it is up to the merchant to request a convienent time from me to have the items picked up.


Now I just have to decide if I really want to try another Mits DLP or go with a Samsung flat panel. Mits customer service was the worst in dealing with this but I am tempted to try one of the new DLP sets that have everything built-in.


My wife is about to start having me sleep in the doghouse as it was. Now with what will become no TV in our family room for who knows how long, the doghouse may actually become the new theater room I've always wanted.


Thanks again to each of the people who attempted to help me sort things out.


----------



## briankstan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sarasotabill* /forum/post/19891774
> 
> 
> I guess my issues have been resolved. AMEX has concluded that the devices that were sold (TV and required adapter) do not achieve the definition of fully and properly functional as represented. Based on that, as of today AMEX has issued a credit to me for the total amount I spent on the tv including the delivery fee, as well as the starter kit. They have informed the merchant of this and now it is up to the merchant to request a convienent time from me to have the items picked up.
> 
> 
> Now I just have to decide if I really want to try another Mits DLP or go with a Samsung flat panel. Mits customer service was the worst in dealing with this but I am tempted to try one of the new DLP sets that have everything built-in.
> 
> 
> My wife is about to start having me sleep in the doghouse as it was. Now with what will become no TV in our family room for who knows how long, the doghouse may actually become the new theater room I've always wanted.
> 
> 
> Thanks again to each of the people who attempted to help me sort things out.



I'm not sure what model of TV you have (had). I"m assuming since you were still using the adapter that it is the 638 series or equivalent. (the 738 and 838 series have firmware updates, and when done no longer require the adapter).


that being said, If you do jump on another Mits DLP I would suggest on of the above. I have the 65638 model and although I do still have a few bugs that I'm working out. I've been very happy with the picture of both 3D and 2D.


Hope that helps.


----------



## tlogan6797

I've just encountered a little problem myself.....


(Mits 65737, Sony 3d BR (sorry, forget exact model, but I updated to latest firmware), Comcast RNG110 cable box, Denon 3806)


Hooked up cable to adapter then to TV. Cable 3D works fine (except for the well-known black crush/tint problem). Purchase Sony 3D BR after the latest round of 3D BR releases. Buy a Monoprice 4X4 matrix switch in order to not have to switch cables and to be able to bypass adapter when not watching 3D.


Hook up cable to switch Input 1, Sony to switch Input 2. Switch Out 1 to HDMI 1, Switch out 2 to HDMI 2, Switch Out 3 to adapter then to HDMI 3. Cable and BR audio are Optical to Denon.


I SHOULD be able to bypass adapter when NOT 3D and use adapter for 3D with EITHER cable or BR, right?


WRONG. I can get Cable to work fine, BUT, BR "DOES NOT RECOGNIZE PLAYER OR DISPLAY AS 3D CAPABLE DEVICE" (or something close to that). NO 3D BR.


Additionally, I'm trying to program my Harmony 700 (all codes are in the database) to be able to auto-switch everything. I've created Watch TV (works fine), Watch DVD (works fine), Watch TV 3D (works fine), Watch 3D DVD (not so much).


Anyone?


----------



## RDKing2

Sarasotabill


I have a new Yamaha receiver. Had some initial problems getting things to display correctly in 3D due to the way I wanted to configure the components. I found out by research/trial and error this was due to settings in the receiver.


I looked through the manual for your recevier and one thing I was going to suggest for you was to set the video output in the receiver to PURE which will leave the video signal alone when going through the receiver. It is most likely set to AUTO which may change the video resolution causing problems with the adapter.


You seemed to wonder what checking the operation of the Fios box straight to the adapter would accomplish, I had already stated if it works the problem is isolated to the receiver. Which then means it may be a setting in the recevier which I suggested above. You seem to be to frustrated at this point to even try swapping some cables around. Whatever route you go next I hope things go easier for you next time. Though going with another similar setup is a recipe for disaster IMHO.


Richard


----------



## sarasotabill

Rdking2-- I did appreciate your suggestions. They were on the to try list. Yes I am frustrated beyond belief but I certainly would have switched around a few cables to check if the problem could be isolated that way. Thanks again. I had already tried the pure mode from the receiver, it did not change anything one way or the other as much as I could tell.


When AMEX called me this morning and offered this option, I decided to accept it on the spot. I wish this was not the case as we really like the tv in 2d but need it to work properly in 3d as well. I have been going around with Mits and the merchant I bought TV and adapter from for over 3months now. I believe if there were an easy fix, Mitsubishi tech support - no matter how inept they seem would have offered it. This is just my gut feeling but I think they put the cart before the horse with thier tv's and the current adapter.


----------



## rRooster

I used the 3d adaptor just fine with my directv receiver, xbox 360, and ps3.

Now, whenever I hook up the adaptor to any source, I see a picture for like 3 seconds then the screen goes black. I haven't changed anything in the setup. Also my netflix on my xbox 360 has also stopped working telling me there is a HDCP problem regardless of whether it goes through the 3d adaptor or not. I've already tried a bunch of different 1.4 HDMI cables and the same thing happens. I'm not running it through an av receiver either. When I unhook the 3d adaptor from the chain everything works fine( except the netflix on 360) Anyone have any ideas?



Thanks! I was really enjoying 3d for about a month before whatever happened !


----------



## walford

Rooster,

What happens when you use the adapter remote to change the 3D mode settings.


----------



## rhulett

I'm a little confused. I have 73c9, as well as sony bd570. Do all I need is the mitsubishi adapter, not the starter pack, and some dlp link glasses? How do the glasses get their signal? Is there an emitter that I need or does that come with the glasses.


If I've read the forums correctly, I can get the adapter and 4 pairs of Optoma glasses for not much more than what the starter pack costs. Thanks for the help.

Rob


----------



## Jarrod




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhulett* /forum/post/19930225
> 
> 
> I'm a little confused. I have 73c9, as well as sony bd570. Do all I need is the mitsubishi adapter, not the starter pack, and some dlp link glasses? How do the glasses get their signal? Is there an emitter that I need or does that come with the glasses.



DLP-link glasses don't need an emitter. The glasses sync signal is encoded into the onscreen image itself, in between the video frames.


From what I've read, some TVs have more trouble keeping DLP-link glasses in sync during very dark scenes. I've most often seen people with LED light engine DLP sets (like the Samsungs, which I've got) complain about this issue. For that reason, I went with the Mitsubishi 3D starter kit and IR sync, and it works great. If DLP-link works well on your set, it would be a simpler setup and could save a few bucks. It also removes the potential issue of off-black hues that some IR users complain of (this is supposedly caused by the DLP-link signal itself, which should not be shown to your if you are using DLP-link glasses because they apparently block it out). I personally have not noticed this hue issue on my own IR setup, but I just got it so haven't watched a lot of material or done A/B testing, yet.


These appear to be the main issues to weigh when deciding which way to go. I'd read more threads to form your own opinion with respect to the equipment you've got.


----------



## nickels55

Let me tell you my experience so far with DLP Link glasses (Ultra Clear) with a LED Samsung 6187s. First off, my research shows that most inexpensive DLP Link glasses display rainbows. I see them big time, a rainbow goes down the right side of the screen and you have to tilt your head to make it go away. After a while you don't notice it, but it is always there.


Next comes the DLP Link signal. On mine it works great... at night. I tried to play in the day and my glasses lost sync every couple of minutes, even sitting closer to the set then normal.


So, I saved a buck and went DLP Link, and now I'm spending more to return my glasses and switch to IR glasses. I should have gotten this starter pack from the beginning for around $350 on ebay. Here's why:


3DA1 - $100

IR Emitter - $100-120 depending on where you find it

2 pair IR glasses (UC) - $115 (The set is about equal to the set that comes with the 3dC-1000


So, there isn't much of a saving buying everything on your own, and you get a "better' set of glasses with the 3DC-1000 then the UC set. If I could go back a few weeks I would have gotten the starter kit over buying all of the pieces on their own.


----------



## Jarrod




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nickels55* /forum/post/19930388
> 
> 
> So, there isn't much of a saving buying everything on your own, and you get a "better' set of glasses with the 3DC-1000 then the UC set. If I could go back a few weeks I would have gotten the starter kit over buying all of the pieces on their own.



Great post - thanks for sharing your experience in detail. I know some have had good luck with DLP-link but many as yourself have not. I've not heard many complaints about IR, except for the one I mentioned about tinted blacks due to the DLP-link signal (which you can shut off in the 2010 Mitsubishi sets so this is a non-issue for those owners).


I will say that I have no issues at all with the 3DC-1000 with my Samsung LED light-engine DLP. In my setup it produces beautiful, ghost and rainbow-free 3D and syncs fine under all conditions. The emitter is very strong, and keeps sync even when I walk into the kitchen 25 feet away.


I bought two of the Samsung Shrek 3D kits off Ebay to get four more sets of compatible IR glasses (and we are Shrek fans so the four pack-in Blu-rays will be cool). I'll sell one of the Shrek pack-ins to bring my average cost for the four extra glasses down to around $70 each (and I'll keep one set of four "free" Shrek movies).


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jarrod* /forum/post/19930539
> 
> 
> Great post - thanks for sharing your experience in detail. I know some have had good luck with DLP-link but many as yourself have not. I've not heard many complaints about IR, except for the one I mentioned about tinted blacks due to the DLP-link signal (which you can shut off in the 2010 Mitsubishi sets so this is a non-issue for those owners).
> 
> 
> I will say that I have no issues at all with the 3DC-1000 with my Samsung LED light-engine DLP. In my setup it produces beautiful, ghost and rainbow-free 3D and syncs fine under all conditions. The emitter is very strong, and keeps sync even when I walk into the kitchen 25 feet away.
> 
> 
> I bought two of the Samsung Shrek 3D kits off Ebay to get four more sets of compatible IR glasses (and we are Shrek fans so the four pack-in Blu-rays will be cool). I'll sell one of the Shrek pack-ins to bring my average cost for the four extra glasses down to around $70 each (and I'll keep one set of four "free" Shrek movies).



Dang it! I paid @$220 for the Sammy 3D pack to get the Shrek pack and 2 more sets of glasses and I live here in Nashvegas like you...wonder how good a deal you got on eBay?


----------



## Jarrod




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/19931864
> 
> 
> Dang it! I paid @$220 for the Sammy 3D pack to get the Shrek pack and 2 more sets of glasses and I live here in Nashvegas like you...wonder how good a deal you got on eBay?



You did OK. I got each of my two sets for about $40 less than you paid, but had to bid on like 25 auctions before winning two of them. It took me about a week!


My $70 glasses price assumes I'll be able to get $80 for one set of four Shrek Blu-rays. I've seen them going for around $100 recently. We'll see what they are worth by the time I get the voucher redeemed.


----------



## bcterp




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jarrod* /forum/post/19932882
> 
> 
> You did OK. I got each of my two sets for about $40 less than you paid, but had to bid on like 25 auctions before winning two of them. It took me about a week!
> 
> 
> My $70 glasses price assumes I'll be able to get $80 for one set of four Shrek Blu-rays. I've seen them going for around $100 recently. We'll see what they are worth by the time I get the voucher redeemed.



Buying a new starter kit on ebay and selling what you don't want has worked out great for me as well. I was lucky enough to get a new shrek kit for $182. I just wanted the movies so I sold the glasses for $180 plus $10 for shipping.


----------



## johnson636

Ok, I finally got my 3D kit from mits. I hooked everything up and I have video and sound. I have the Denon SYS-391HT, LG B580, and WD60638. The tv and adapter is in 3D mode, but my problem is the glasses keep powering off shortly after I turn them on. When I say shortly I mean like .5 secs. The red light will come on then shut right off. No matter how close of far I am from the emmiter this happens. I read that when the battery is low, the led will blink continually; thats not what I'm experiencing. I have the glasses that came with the kit and a pair of ultra clear (emmiter version). I have no idea at this point. If this is not enough info to offer help please let me know.




Edit: Oh yeah,almost forgot. after the led shuts off, the only way I can get it to come back on is to remove the battery and put it back in.


----------



## old corps




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnson636* /forum/post/19934336
> 
> 
> Ok, I finally got my 3D kit from mits. I hooked everything up and I have video and sound. I have the Denon SYS-391HT, LG B580, and WD60638. The tv and adapter is in 3D mode, but my problem is the glasses keep powering off shortly after I turn them on. When I say shortly I mean like .5 secs. The red light will come on then shut right off. No matter how close of far I am from the emmiter this happens. I read that when the battery is low, the led will blink continually; thats not what I'm experiencing. I have the glasses that came with the kit and a pair of ultra clear (emmiter version). I have no idea at this point. If this is not enough info to offer help please let me know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Oh yeah,almost forgot. after the led shuts off, the only way I can get it to come back on is to remove the battery and put it back in.



I had what I think is the same problem you are experiencing with both the Mits and UC IR glassess. They would constantly lose sync/shut down. The "tape fix" worked and continues to work great for me. Cut a VERY SMALL piece of tape (I used black duct tape, others have used electrical tape) and cover up 2/3 to 3/4's of the sensor on the glasses. On the UCs the sensor is located on the left side, on the Mits it's in the center. I know it sounds like a pretty mickey-mouse solution (it IS!) but it immediately solved the problem for me. Don't ask me why, interference from something like my wireless router nearby?







Try it and post back if it works! Good luck!


Ed


After taking another look at my glasses I noticed that I have more like 1/2 or a bit more of the sensors covered. 3/4 may be too much.


----------



## Jarrod




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnson636* /forum/post/19934336
> 
> 
> Ok, I finally got my 3D kit from mits. I hooked everything up and I have video and sound. I have the Denon SYS-391HT, LG B580, and WD60638. The tv and adapter is in 3D mode, but my problem is the glasses keep powering off shortly after I turn them on. When I say shortly I mean like .5 secs. The red light will come on then shut right off.



The red LED is not supposed to stay on while the glasses are operating. It doesn't on my Mitsubishi glasses or my Samsung glasses. It comes on solid for about one second when you turn them on, then it shuts off. When you turn them off, it flashes on/off two or three times quickly. The rest of the time, the LED is off while the glasses are operating (or obviously when the glasses are off).


----------



## rhulett

Thanks for the help guys. Bought the adapter and 4 sets of dlp link glasses, supposed to be here Friday, but who knows for sure when they will get here with all of the snow we are getting.


----------



## danshane

Quote:

Originally Posted by *johnson636* 
Ok, I finally got my 3D kit from mits. I hooked everything up and I have video and sound. I have the Denon SYS-391HT, LG B580, and WD60638. The tv and adapter is in 3D mode, but my problem is the glasses keep powering off shortly after I turn them on. When I say shortly I mean like .5 secs. The red light will come on then shut right off. No matter how close of far I am from the emmiter this happens. I read that when the battery is low, the led will blink continually; thats not what I'm experiencing. I have the glasses that came with the kit and a pair of ultra clear (emmiter version). I have no idea at this point. If this is not enough info to offer help please let me know.
You might try a couple of things to get your IR sync working correctly. First go into the Mits 3D menu and switch to DLP Link for a few seconds, then switch back to IR.


If that doesn't cut it try the MENU-1-2-3 reset or disconnect the power to the TV for a few seconds.


When I updated the firmware on my 73738 I experienced the same symptoms you seem to be having, and the above procedures fixed my IR sync problem.


----------



## bcterp

Quote:

Originally Posted by *danshane*
You might try a couple of things to get your IR sync working correctly. First go into the Mits 3D menu and switch to DLP Link for a few seconds, then switch back to IR.


If that doesn't cut it try the MENU-1-2-3 reset or disconnect the power to the TV for a few seconds.


When I updated the firmware on my 73738 I experienced the same symptoms you seem to be having, and the above procedures fixed my IR sync problem.
The 12.07 firmware also completely disabled my emitter until I did the menu 123 reset.


----------



## j007m

Hi everyone, i have the wd65-c9 and need the remote code for the service men u. It was posted in this thThanksread a while ago but, I can' locate it. Could someone post or link it.


----------



## johnson636




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jarrod* /forum/post/19936478
> 
> 
> The red LED is not supposed to stay on while the glasses are operating. It doesn't on my Mitsubishi glasses or my Samsung glasses. It comes on solid for about one second when you turn them on, then it shuts off. When you turn them off, it flashes on/off two or three times quickly. The rest of the time, the LED is off while the glasses are operating (or obviously when the glasses are off).



Oh, I was thinking the red led was supposes to stay on. Now, something still isn't right. Instead of seeing one image, I'm seeing seperate images from L-R eye. If I close either of my eyes, then I'm able to see one image. I've disconnected the power from the tv and menu 1-2-3 did nothing. Don't know what's going on. Does the light on the emmiter supposed to blink? Mine is solid.


PS. I tried the tape over the sensor trick and still no luck. I even powered down my wireless router to no avail.


----------



## Jarrod




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnson636* /forum/post/19940551
> 
> 
> Oh, I was thinking the red led was supposes to stay on. Now, something still isn't right. Instead of seeing one image, I'm seeing seperate images from L-R eye. If I close either of my eyes, then I'm able to see one image. I've disconnected the power from the tv and menu 1-2-3 did nothing. Don't know what's going on. Does the light on the emmiter supposed to blink? Mine is solid.



The emitter light is solid red when a 3D signal is active.


What is your 3D source matieral? Sounds to me like maybe the 3D mode you've selected on the Mits adapter does not match the format being provided by your source? It should be "Normal" for Blu-ray. Side-by-side or over/under are used for broadcast material (Directv, comcast, etc).


----------



## johnson636

I just lost my output on my Denon AVR so right now the Bluray is connected directly to the Mits. I have normal selected for the 3D mode. I don't see an option for side by side or over/under. Where are these options?


----------



## Jarrod




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnson636* /forum/post/19941786
> 
> 
> I don't see an option for side by side or over/under. Where are these options?



The 3D mode button that came with the adapter cycles through the options.


----------



## johnson636

I don't know what happend, but its working now. I went into my player to see if the over/under and side by side options were there (and I didn't see them), turned off the 3D mode and turned it back on. When I fired up the movie I noticed a change in the picture without the glasses, Instead of the image being split on each side of the screen it looked blurry. Thats the way it looked at the stores before I would put the glasses on. I just don't know what I did, if anything at all, to change it. Oh well, it looks great!!!!!! My only regret now is not getting the 73" Damn!!!












Edit:


> Quote:
> The 3D mode button that came with the adapter cycles through the options



Oh I see. What mode is default? Maybe I was pressing that button without realizing what I was doing.


----------



## AndyKoopa

i have a 73833 with the 3da-1, i love it for 3d movies but the 3d games are in 720p and the 3da-1 upconverts the image to 1080p. this gives a stretched look,is there anyway to play 3d in 720p? another adapter?


----------



## ATR

Did I screw up?


I have a Mits wd65c10 and just ordered the 3dc-1000 starter pack. I bought a bought 6 pairs of sony 3d glasses.


Are sony 3d glasses compatible with the Mits wd-65c10 w/ 3dc-1000 emitter????


I have a bad feeling in my gut it isnt


----------



## AndyKoopa

Hi bud, I don't think the Sony glasses will work on a Mitsubishi 3d tv. I may be wrong though.


Can I convert the 1080p 3d checkerboard format to 720p 3d after the adapter? I love the 3d movies but the games were made to be played in 720p and they look so stretch and just bad in the 1080p upconversion the adapter makes. Any way the Optoma 3D-XL is compatible with Mitsubishi 3d dlp tvs? I see that converts all 1080p 3d to 720p.


----------



## Jarrod




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ATR* /forum/post/19947845
> 
> 
> Are sony 3d glasses compatible with the Mits wd-65c10 w/ 3dc-1000 emitter????
> 
> 
> I have a bad feeling in my gut it isnt



Sorry man, but the Sony glasses are not compatible. You need Samsung, Mitsubishi, or some third party glasses (Ultraclears, etc.) that say they are specifically compatible with the Mitsubishi/Samsung TVs/emitters. Be somewhat careful because some (i.e. eDimensional) say they are compatible with Mits/Samsung TVs (and they are in a sense), but require that you use their own emitter, which isn't compatible with your Mitsubishi glasses. You need glasses that work specifically with the Mitsubishi emitter.


I went with Samsung glasses from two of the Shrek 3D kits, and they work great.


----------



## Jarrod




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *johnson636* /forum/post/19941835
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Oh I see. What mode is default? Maybe I was pressing that button without realizing what I was doing.



Blu-ray needs "Normal". On my setup, for Blu-ray 3D to work I have to put the TV on a 3D-capable input (on my Samsung TV only HDMI3 is capable of 3D), and turn on the adapter, BEFORE I start playback of the 3D disc. Then the blu-ray player (Sony 470) can detect that my TV is 3D capable and sends the correct format. At that point the Mitsubishi adapter detects that the signal is 3D and automatically switches to "Normal". Then I just have to put the TV in 3D mode and everything works.


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AndyKoopa* /forum/post/19948594
> 
> 
> Hi bud, I don't think the Sony glasses will work on a Mitsubishi 3d tv. I may be wrong though.
> 
> 
> Can I convert the 1080p 3d checkerboard format to 720p 3d after the adapter? I love the 3d movies but the games were made to be played in 720p and they look so stretch and just bad in the 1080p upconversion the adapter makes. *Any way the Optoma 3D-XL is compatible with Mitsubishi 3d dlp tvs?* I see that converts all 1080p 3d to 720p.



No it converts to frame sequuental, not checkerboard. Will not work.


----------



## walford

For the adapter Normal 3D mode is the 3d Blu-ray player packed double format format. the other choices are for cable or satellite SbS or TnB 3D formats. In any case the output from the adapter is always checkerboard for HDMI 1.4a 3D input formats, otherwise it should pass through the input untouched.


The 3D-XL will convert HDMI 1.4a 3D formats to 720p/60 frame Sequential format at 120Hz for 3D DLP Pjs or TVs.


----------



## rhulett

I was kind of under the impression, that 2d signals were converted to a faux 3d picture, but that doesn't seem to be the case with the mitsubishi adapter. What do you have to have to get 2d to convert to 3d?


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *rhulett* /forum/post/19954908
> 
> 
> I was kind of under the impression, that 2d signals were converted to a faux 3d picture, but that doesn't seem to be the case with the mitsubishi adapter. What do you have to have to get 2d to convert to 3d?



Buy a new TV, the Mits adapter doesn't do that.


----------



## djmas

picking up a 73738 this week. Do i need to buy this kit and then just sell the adapter on ebay or is there another option?


----------



## kjroddy

Your other options once you have the updated firmware installed would be DLP glasses, or IR glasses with an appropriate emitter


----------



## pooch16212

Does anyone know if the new ViewSonic PGD-250 glasses will work on the '09 versions (73C9) using the 3DA-1 Adapter? I assume that they will since the ViewSonic PGD-150s did, but just wanted to confirm before I preordered. They look to be more comfortable than the ViewSonic PGD-150/Optoma's.


----------



## JOHNnDENVER

You can get just the adapter right $99 lots of places. But on a 738 if you update the firmware you no longer need the adapter.


----------



## nickels55




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pooch16212* /forum/post/19978342
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if the new ViewSonic PGD-250 glasses will work on the '09 versions (73C9) using the 3DA-1 Adapter? I assume that they will since the ViewSonic PGD-150s did, but just wanted to confirm before I preordered. They look to be more comfortable than the ViewSonic PGD-150/Optoma's.



The glasses have nothing to do with the 3DA-1 Adapter. The 150s and 250s are both DLP Link glasses. If you have a DLP Link enabled set, which you do, then they will both work on it.


----------



## AndyKoopa

I have a WD-73833 Mitsubishi 2007 TV. I have the 3D adapter and it works great for 3d movies but 3d games on PS3 look bad as they are in 720p but the adapter converts them to 1080p. How can I play 3D PS3 games in 720p 3D on my 73833 TV? I have tried the 3D-Gamer adapter but that did not work, please help me!!!










Thanks,

-Andy


----------



## AndyKoopa

So, will the Optoma 3D-XL work on my Mitsubishi 73833 DLP 3D Ready TV?


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AndyKoopa* /forum/post/19987710
> 
> 
> So, will the Optoma 3D-XL work on my Mitsubishi 73833 DLP 3D Ready TV?



No


----------



## PaulGo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *AndyKoopa* /forum/post/19987687
> 
> 
> I have a WD-73833 Mitsubishi 2007 TV. I have the 3D adapter and it works great for 3d movies but 3d games on PS3 look bad as they are in 720p but the adapter converts them to 1080p. How can I play 3D PS3 games in 720p 3D on my 73833 TV? I have tried the 3D-Gamer adapter but that did not work, please help me!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> -Andy



All 1080p DLP sets that have checkerboard 3D need 1080p 60fps for a full screen display so all 3D input is changed to this by the Mits adapter.


----------



## walford

The checkerboard format by definition is a 1080p/60 format and is only accepted by 3D ready RP DLP TVs which then display 3D at 1920x540/60 per eye usinng their wobulated DLP chips. The 3D DLP projectors use non wobulated 720p DLP chips and therefore do not accept checkerboard formated input. All of the 3D ready DLP displays also accept 720p frame sequential format directly from either PCs or I beleive from PS3s at 120Hz.

On the TVs this is upscaled and also displayed at 1920x540/60 per eye.

http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/3D.html#content


----------



## Rsinart

So my sister dropped a pair of my glasses that came with the starter kit. Big bummer. So I am wondering what is my best choice for new glasses using the IR emitter, while still using glasses that aren't broken. Looking to buy 2-3 more.


----------



## nickels55




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Rsinart* /forum/post/19992598
> 
> 
> So my sister dropped a pair of my glasses that came with the starter kit. Big bummer. So I am wondering what is my best choice for new glasses using the IR emitter, while still using glasses that aren't broken. Looking to buy 2-3 more.



For price - the Ultra Clear IR model. They are only $65 for the first pair and $5 off for each attentional set. From what I've read they are just as good if not better then the Samsung/Mitts sets that come with the kits.


----------



## PaulGo

Take a look the Cowboom website - they have the Samsung starter kit with two sets of glasses for $120.


----------



## dodkalm81

I have a question. I have a WD 65833. And I am looking to upgrade to start using the 3d option. The question i have, is it best to go with this starter kit with the Mitsubishi glasses, or go with another companies glasses. Say the Xpands 102 (since they are DLink) or possibly the Xpand 103 and get the IR emitter for the TV. I am also going to get the Panasonic DMP-BDT310 when it comes out this spring. Since it outputs the checkerboard patter, and i will not need the 3dC-1000 adapter, just possibly the emitter. Also the Panasonic has 2 hdmi's so I can get surround sound as well. The question again is. the glasses. I want to get the best glasses I can get


----------



## nickels55

So far all my research points to Crystal Eyes 4 or 5 being the best option out there but the price is a bit steep at $175 for one set of glasses. Since you have no emitter I'd suggest starting with the DLP Link version of CE5. If your set has DLP Link sync issues with the glasses then drop down to CE4 and get an emitter for them.


I should mention to check out the newest Monster Vision 3D glasses kit as well. I haven't heard much about them but at $275 they better rock.


----------



## JOHNnDENVER




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dodkalm81* /forum/post/20014307
> 
> 
> I have a question. I have a WD 65833. And I am looking to upgrade to start using the 3d option. The question i have, is it best to go with this starter kit with the Mitsubishi glasses, or go with another companies glasses. Say the Xpands 102 (since they are DLink) or possibly the Xpand 103 and get the IR emitter for the TV. I am also going to get the Panasonic DMP-BDT310 when it comes out this spring. Since it outputs the checkerboard patter, and i will not need the 3dC-1000 adapter, just possibly the emitter. Also the Panasonic has 2 hdmi's so I can get surround sound as well. The question again is. the glasses. I want to get the best glasses I can get



No Sat / Cable 3D content in your future? Get a Panny player and some DLP-Link glasses. Mind blowingly good 3D, I use X102's.


I definetly want Sat provided 3D, so I have to get the adapter.


----------



## landonsdad

I use the Panny 350, but only use the main hdmi output. Seems when I choose checkerboard format output, the 3d video passes through my Denon 3808 (3.1) and then to Mits dlp. I bought the Mits kit, but only use the glasses and pass the emitter through the converter. Do I need to do this? NO hdmi cables pass through converter. Am I losing audio quality (lossless) doing this?


I figured I could use converter to convert another 3d source to checkerboard, when checkerboard output was not available.


This is now the case.

My cable has some 3d channels, but only offer side by side or over/under outputs. My plan is to run hdmi cable from cable box through converter to convert to checkerboard which should then also pass through my A/V rec and to tv. This leaves my avr as my video selector







Any reason this would not work? Or should I place converter between avr and tv? I did notice when I chose over/under on 3D channel, it passed through avr and showed 2 videos on screen. One above the other, split screen.


The only other issue I have is, sometimes I can not get the 3D on/off in the Mits menu to operate. It works intermittently and I can not figure out why or when it works. Any ideas?







Maybe putting the converter between avr and tv fixes this?? Would this be ok for all sources, even 2D signals?


----------



## Milmanias

You're getting the lossless audio from the Panasonic 350; the receiver sees checkerboard as a 1080p signal and does not have problems decoding the audio. With the cable box, you need to connect the adapter directly to the tv, so it would need to be cable box - AVR - Mits adapter.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *landonsdad* /forum/post/20024403
> 
> 
> I use the Panny 350, but only use the main hdmi output. Seems when I choose checkerboard format output, the 3d video passes through my Denon 3808 (3.1) and then to Mits dlp. I bought the Mits kit, but only use the glasses and pass the emitter through the converter. Do I need to do this? NO hdmi cables pass through converter. Am I losing audio quality (lossless) doing this?
> 
> 
> I figured I could use converter to convert another 3d source to checkerboard, when checkerboard output was not available.
> 
> 
> This is now the case.
> 
> My cable has some 3d channels, but only offer side by side or over/under outputs. My plan is to run hdmi cable from cable box through converter to convert to checkerboard which should then also pass through my A/V rec and to tv. This leaves my avr as my video selector
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any reason this would not work? Or should I place converter between avr and tv? I did notice when I chose over/under on 3D channel, it passed through avr and showed 2 videos on screen. One above the other, split screen.
> 
> 
> The only other issue I have is, sometimes I can not get the 3D on/off in the Mits menu to operate. It works intermittently and I can not figure out why or when it works. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe putting the converter between avr and tv fixes this?? Would this be ok for all sources, even 2D signals?



Say again?! You're able to get 3D BDs to work through your 3808?!


----------



## Milmanias




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/20025260
> 
> 
> Say again?! You're able to get 3D BDs to work through your 3808?!



His Panasonic player is outputting checkerboard, which any 1.3 HDMI AVR should have no problem with.


----------



## JOHNnDENVER

The adapter would work too if you could spoof the EDID before going into the AVR. The adapter has to see a Mitsu compatible display on it's other side or it will not output properly.


----------



## landonsdad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JOHNnDENVER* /forum/post/20025557
> 
> 
> The adapter would work too if you could spoof the EDID before going into the AVR. The adapter has to see a Mitsu compatible display on it's other side or it will not output properly.



OK, then would it hurt to have the adapter between the avr and the tv permanently. Would my cable 3d pass through Denon? I do see over/under image, from cable box, when passing through avr to tv.


Goal:

I am trying to use the avr for all video selecting and only 1 input on tv. This keeps it simple for wife and grandparents.. If this doesn't work, I would like to split my cable box hdmi output so that normal viewing (95%) would operate through Denon as I have now. Then, have the other side of split pass through mits adapter and then to hdmi2 on tv.


I noticed the problem I am having with 3D in Mits menu is based on what I call the hdmi1 input. If I name it AVR, I can not get 3D option to light up and operate, but when named Blu-Ray, I can turn 3D off and on. Does this make sense or just coincidental?


----------



## JOHNnDENVER

I have to admit, I have left mine unnamed because I have read other users talk about naming causing oddities with this.


Cable usually works in your proposed adapter placed post AVR configuration. Direct TV does not work because the Direct TV box actually checks the HDMI edid to make sure there is a supported device on the recieving end of it's video output. I am not sure what the adapter will do when / if you output checkerboard to it. I am pretty sure the 3D output on the BD player has to be changed for it to work with the adapter in between, and once you do that it will not pass through your current AVR.


----------



## JOHNnDENVER

If I had not returned the Sony AVR, I could test or of this for you. But alas, my current AVR is not even HDMI period.


----------



## landonsdad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JOHNnDENVER* /forum/post/20025890
> 
> 
> If I had not returned the Sony AVR, I could test or of this for you. But alas, my current AVR is not even HDMI period.



Thanks, I will try to run panny through adapter to tv direct, as set up now for Denon, and see if it works without changing 3D output in Panny. Getting behind avr is not so easy.


I hate to replace my 3808, especially since I paid for the Odyssey upgrade, so soon and if I can get cable 3D to work, I won't have to.


----------



## landonsdad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JOHNnDENVER* /forum/post/20025557
> 
> 
> The adapter would work too if you could spoof the EDID before going into the AVR. The adapter has to see a Mitsu compatible display on it's other side or it will not output properly.



So what we need is a company to make an adapter that converts all 3D formats to checkerboard and not care about what is on the other side.


----------



## JOHNnDENVER

yep.. That would be best for sure.. But we deal with what we have available and our current equipment.


----------



## landonsdad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *JOHNnDENVER* /forum/post/20025557
> 
> 
> The adapter would work too if you could spoof the EDID before going into the AVR. The adapter has to see a Mitsu compatible display on it's other side or it will not output properly.



OK, I have done some research and found I might be able to buy a spoofing device. Is this true? Any one know what specific device I need?


----------



## JOHNnDENVER

Ionly knwo fo the Geffen HDMI detective stuff. Kind of pricey for what it does .


----------



## SJCoruja




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *landonsdad* /forum/post/20025790
> 
> 
> OK, then would it hurt to have the adapter between the avr and the tv permanently. Would my cable 3d pass through Denon? I do see over/under image, from cable box, when passing through avr to tv.



Have you gotten this to work or at least tried it? I too have a Denon AVR, but am having issues running my cable box through the Denon AND through the adapter. I can run it through the Denon and then in to the TV and everything works great (even 3d if top/bottom or checkerboard). OR, I can run the cable box through the adapter and then in to the TV and everything works great (but of course lose the ability to play sound through the AVR). BUT, if I run it all together (cable box through Denon through adapter then in to TV) I cannot get video at all, and the audio just flashed on and off repeatedly.


My goal is similar to yours...I want me 3d adapter to be inline after my AVR so it can be the master switching device. The idea of having to run splitters, alternate audio, or other means seems crazy to me...as does manually changing HDMI connections depending on use (which is what I do now).


----------



## Jamieb81




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SJCoruja* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> Have you gotten this to work or at least tried it? I too have a Denon AVR, but am having issues running my cable box through the Denon AND through the adapter. I can run it through the Denon and then in to the TV and everything works great (even 3d if top/bottom or checkerboard). OR, I can run the cable box through the adapter and then in to the TV and everything works great (but of course lose the ability to play sound through the AVR). BUT, if I run it all together (cable box through Denon through adapter then in to TV) I cannot get video at all, and the audio just flashed on and off repeatedly.
> 
> 
> My goal is similar to yours...I want me 3d adapter to be inline after my AVR so it can be the master switching device. The idea of having to run splitters, alternate audio, or other means seems crazy to me...as does manually changing HDMI connections depending on use (which is what I do now).



This is how I have set up through Yamaha RX-V467 and working flawlessly.


----------



## NBuckmaster




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jamieb81* /forum/post/20049137
> 
> 
> This is how I have set up through Yamaha RX-V467 and working flawlessly.



Also working fine from both HTPC and UVerse this way through my Yamaha RX-V863.


----------



## SJCoruja

Hmmm...may I ask what type of cable box you are running? I found a few posts that say that Motorola boxes do not 'like' too many HDMI connections in the chain.


I should have also added this issue is just with my cable box...my xbox 360, for example, works just fine through Denon through adapter then to TV and the 3d works flawlessly.


----------



## rad

I'm tunning a DirecTV HR24-200 (and have tried HR24-500 and HR23-700) and a PS3 via HDMI to a 3DC-1000 to a WD-73735 through a Denon AVR-891 without any problems.


----------



## JOHNnDENVER

Interesting. Direct TV is the one that states it won't work. Must not work with all AVR's aye?


----------



## Geaux Tigers

The Denon AVR-891 is an HDMI 1.4 3D Compatible AVR. DirecTv's 3D programing should pass through an HDMI 1.4 AVR but will usually not pass through most older HDMI 1.3 and earlier receivers. DirecTv's 3D signal would actually pass through but DirecTv is using EDID restrictions that prevent non 3D AVRs from working.


----------



## JOHNnDENVER

I just got my Direct TV 3D going and the instructions say to make sure my Mistu 3D converter is before any AVR.


Not that it matters to me, my direct TV goes to the converter and then to the TV. I am using optical for audio.


----------



## Geaux Tigers

Follow the Money; The Real Rreason Why Your AVR Doesn't Support DirecTV's 3D



By Ben Drawbaugh posted Sep 25th 2010 1:15PM


Follow this industry and you learn to accept that manufacturers are only motivated to add new features to new products, but when we first heard that DirecTV's 3D signal wouldn't let you pass frame compatible 3D through older AV receivers, we were scratching our heads. Sure the receiver never claimed to be 3D compatible, but the entire point of using frame compatible 3D instead of doubling the HD signal for 3D like Blu-ray is so the signal can be transmitted via existing HD equipment. So while DirecTV gets away with making minimal changes to its infrastructure, you have to replace just about everything you own. What was a mystery, is now crystal clear and of course its always about money, it isn't necessarily about DirecTV's money, this time. You see RealD owns the patent on frame compatible 3D formats like side by side, and if a display or receiver manufacturer wants its EDID on the list of supported devices, they have to pay for that right. So it isn't that DirecTV wants to prevent you from using your old receiver as much as it is about preventing those who don't license RealD's patents from being able to display 3D. Nice huh, but no one ever said it was about the customer.

http://hd.engadget.com/2010/09/25/fo...snt-support-d/ 


An interesting read for those of us who get frustrated with the new 3D standards.


----------



## Slydragon

What's the cheapest 3/4 in and 2 out hdmi splitter? Trying to search on here but its slow on my phone. Links would be nice thanks.


----------



## ajricaud

Look here: http://www.monoprice.com/products/su...01&cp_id=10110


----------



## Slydragon




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajricaud* /forum/post/20080804
> 
> 
> Look here: http://www.monoprice.com/products/su...01&cp_id=10110



Do all those work with the 3D kit?


----------



## ajricaud




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Slydragon* /forum/post/20081031
> 
> 
> Do all those work with the 3D kit?



Here's one that specifically does: http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2


----------



## TheCatcher




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Jamieb81* /forum/post/20049137
> 
> 
> This is how I have set up through Yamaha RX-V467 and working flawlessly.



Yesterday, a friend was telling me that the version of the firmware in his Yamaha receiver was doing EDID spoofing.


That might explain why it is working flawlessly through the Yamaha...


----------



## JOHNnDENVER

Super nice feature to have in any HDMI switching device. I hope it becomes standard on all HDMI switching devices.


----------



## hgelpke

What is the cheapest solution somebody has found to split the signal so that one tv input is just the signal and the signal run through the 3d box? I have the 65C9 and the box has been giving me issues. I've seen some attempts thrown out there but I was wondering if anybody has had success actually splitting the signal on the cheap


----------



## ajricaud

Quote:

Originally Posted by *hgelpke* 
What is the cheapest solution somebody has found to split the signal so that one tv input is just the signal and the signal run through the 3d box? I have the 65C9 and the box has been giving me issues. I've seen some attempts thrown out there but I was wondering if anybody has had success actually splitting the signal on the cheap
I haven't used one of these, but Monoprice is very reputable and good at issuing refunds if it doesn't work:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 


If you want a little more capability, i.e. 4 in, 2 out matrix switcher, here is this one:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2


----------



## peteandmarg




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ChrisHawks* /forum/post/18883398
> 
> 
> I was lucky and had to be in Vegas this week for business. I acquired the much anticipated Mitsubishi 3DC-1000 3D Starter Kit from an RC Willey store there.
> 
> 
> I have played with the new toys for a day now. I will attempt to give a review of the components and the overall 3D effect with my home theater system, thus far.
> 
> 
> My 3D system:
> 
> Mitsubishi WD-73737 73 DLP HDTV
> 
> DirecTV HR-24 500 Satellite DVR receiver
> 
> Panasonic DMP-BDT300 Bluray player
> 
> Mitsubishi 3DA-1 Converter box and remote
> 
> Mitsubishi IR emitter Model #SSG-2100ME/ZA
> 
> Mitsubishi Active shutter 3D glasses Model #SSG-2100MG/ZA
> 
> 
> As many of you know, the Panasonic DMP-BDT300 Bluray player already does native checkerboard output, so this device required no converter box to interface with the TV.
> 
> 
> The question I wanted first answered was this: The directions for connecting the 3DA-1 adaptor show the device needing conversion to checkerboard (in my case, the DirecTV receiver) connecting to the 3DA-1, and the 3DA-1 connecting to the TV. This makes obvious sense. BUT, then the instructions indicate that you should connect the IR emitter to the output on the 3DA-1. I thought this odd, because then only one device at a time could be made to function with the Mits glasses, requiring a HDMI 1.3 switcher for multiple devices, and all 3D device needing to loop through the adaptor. I only have one other 3D device, the Panny Bluray, and it does not need to go through the 3DA-1 for checkerboard. So I remembered the IR emitter port on the back of the TV set itself, and thought I would try connecting the IR emitter there, hoping for a more global solution. The upshot: This approach DOES work! So you won't have to be plugging and unplugging your IR emitter, or worry about getting a HDMI switcher if your Bluray player outputs checkerboard. Do note though, that for some reason, the TV may turn off the 3D mode, when you are switching between sources. After you have switched from Satellite or cable viewing to 3D DVD, verify that the TV is still in 3D mode (no reverse needed).
> 
> 
> Let's get to the good stuff. The adaptor seems well constructed and sturdy with it's own remote. It's simple to connect one device at a time for checkerboard conversion to your HDTV. The kit even comes with an extra HDMI cable. Nice touch.
> 
> 
> The IR Mits 3D glasses are wonderfully light weight. They also come with a nice microfiber cleaning cloth. I had previously owned some XPand X102s for 3D Bluray watching, and I'll tell you, the Mits glasses weigh half as much, and are very much more comfortable. I easily watched Coraline last nite without any nose fatigue. The Mits glasses themselves appear to be a clone of the Samsung SSG-2100AB glasses. And actually, I had borrowed a pair of the Samsung glasses from a friend, I can report to you that the Mits glasses are indeed IDENTICAL in every way and function to the Sammy 3D battery glasses. Upshot: Go get yourself the Samsung glasses on eBay and save yourself a bundle, until the Mits glasses drop in price. They are the same glasses!
> 
> 
> Mits 3D glasses performance with the IR emitter. I played around with various locations for the emitter, on top of the set, to the lower corner, etc. There doesn't seem to be any difference where I locate the emitterit all works great! The glasses themselves, are faintly green tinted, and seem to work very well with the emitter. I did not discern any issues with connectivity as I moved around my home theater (my furthest seating is about 12 feet from the TV). At no point side to side, was there an issue either. The glasses don't display any noticeable flutter (detectable lens switching). Very easy on the eyes. Yes, they do cut down on light somewhat, but that's what is so great about a DLP displayit can be very bright if you want it to be.
> 
> 
> The DirecTV receiver now allows unfettered access to the 3D channelsno issues. I watched part of a Peter Gabriel concertwonderful! Then I verfied that my pre-recorded DVR World Cup matches played without issues. I know what I'll be watching this weekend!!
> 
> 
> On to 3D Bluray on the Panny DMP-BDT300 : Blurays look great with the Mits glasses. I viewed parts of Cloudy, M vs. A, and Coraline. All were lovely to behold on the system. Did I mention how comfortable the glasses were? Are they as sturdy as the Xpand's. No. Howeverlet's put it this way. Do you let anyone throw your eyeglasses around or abuse them. I doubt it. Just keep an eye on the kids with these and they'll be fine. If you can't control your little monsters, you'd better get the Xpands. Note about X102s and Mits IR glasses. I don't have access to the X102's any longer as I returned them due to their overall heaviness and uncomfortable design for me personally. However, I can verify that I did have to use the 3D REVERSE setting on my TV when using the XPands to get the display correct. So I can assume that you cannot mix the Xpands and Mits glasses during a single viewing, as the Mits glasses do not require the TV REVERSE setting for 3D viewing.
> 
> 
> What else can I say? My verdict: Mitsubishi has a great product on it's hands. A very nice intro to 3D. Now if they can just get the kit and adapter into wide release, everyone will be happy! I know I am thoroughly satisfied with it.
> 
> 
> Let me know if you have questions. I'll try to answer them!
> 
> 
> ---Chris



Chris,

I'm hoping you can help. I have the 3d adaptor and the Mits C9 series tv. Connected a ps3 through the adaptor to the tv for 3d. Thought I would upgrade to a 3d AV receiver (Pioneer), only to find that when I tried to watch reg tv that it did not give me video and only disrupted audio. The 3D kit shows a diagram that all signals 2d/3d can pass through the adaptor. Now I'm hearing from a tech that the HDCP is the problem and that you cannot pass 3D through a receiver. I have yet to update to the new Mits operating system, but I'm now hesitant. Your post did offer to help and I'm hoping you might have some ideas on how to have 3D pass through a AV receiver? Possibly 2 HMDI outputs or a splitter or ?


----------



## NBuckmaster

So you have a tech telling you that 3D cannot pass through a 3D receiver? I'd find a new tech.


I feed both a HTPC (for blu-ray) and U-verse box through an older, non 3d labeled Yamaha RX, then throught the Mits adapter to a Mits TV. Both work just fine for both 2D and 3D.


Ned


----------



## pmalter0

Quote:

Originally Posted by *NBuckmaster* 
So you have a tech telling you that 3D cannot pass through a 3D receiver? I'd find a new tech.


I feed both a HTPC (for blu-ray) and U-verse box through an older, non 3d labeled Yamaha RX, then throught the Mits adapter to a Mits TV. Both work just fine for both 2D and 3D.


Ned
Many 3D sources will not allow two intermediates e.g. receiver and 3D adapter.

My comcast box won't output 3D through my 3D receiver and my 3D adapter.


----------



## walford

Your receiver is not supplying the EDID for the adapter connected to it's output to the Comcast box connected to its input. The receiver's user manual may tell you had to correct this problem.


----------



## Wryker

I'm lucky - my HD TIvo sends Comcast 3D through my non-3D Denon 3808 AVR without any issues.


----------



## joe gilmore

Chris thanks for this info,could you help me with the direct tv buisness I cannot get the glasses to work once i have the direct tv #d programs up on the screen I have the exact tv you have all iget is the blurry picture and when i turn the glasses on nothing happens any help I would be grateful


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *joe gilmore* /forum/post/20277081
> 
> 
> Chris thanks for this info,could you help me with the direct tv buisness I cannot get the glasses to work once i have the direct tv #d programs up on the screen I have the exact tv you have all iget is the blurry picture and when i turn the glasses on nothing happens any help I would be grateful



Have you turned on 3D mode in the menu on the TV? I have the 73735 with 3DC-1000 and I've used a DIRECTV HR23 and HR24 and they both work. If you have a HR20 or H20 you'll need to get them swapped out since they don't support 3D.


----------



## joe gilmore

Thanks for the questions Yes HR-24 and yes my TV has gaming and it is on and set to standard not reverse plugged HR-24 HDMI into mits 1000 adapter and the adapter into the tv picture comes up but glasses and tried different pair to be sure will not work and up pops on the screen[ put in 3D mode] i push the mode button nothing happens?


----------



## walford

How many times did try pushing 3D mode?

And your TV is set to 3D(checkerboard mode)?


----------



## joe gilmore

How did you get yours working and do you have the 9.03 update ?


----------



## Blue Rain

Anyone have a spare Mits emitter that you don't need...I'm

willing to pay if it's a reasonable price.


Thanks


----------



## PaulGo




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Blue Rain* /forum/post/20324228
> 
> 
> Anyone have a spare Mits emitter that you don't need...I'm
> 
> willing to pay if it's a reasonable price.
> 
> 
> Thanks




This should work:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post20227738


----------



## lujan

I have the Mits 65738 (12.08) and just got in the Optoma ZD101's and was wondering if there is anything I need to know before I try them. I read that they sync in reverse but don't know what that means. Do I need to make a setting change on the TV?


----------



## DenisG

Reverse setting is in the 3D menu.


----------



## Avfan5

I have a Mitsubishi 65638 so I have to use a 3d adapter. I hate black crush so I am purchasing a new receiver with two hdmi outputs


The two receivers I am considering are a Denon 3311 or a Yamaha 867. I have heard that the Denon 3311 works with the 3D adapter but my question is does the yamaha 867 work with the 3G adapter?


----------



## tfried




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Avfan5* /forum/post/20372646
> 
> 
> I have a Mitsubishi 65638 so I have to use a 3d adapter. I hate black crush so I am purchasing a new receiver with two hdmi outputs
> 
> 
> The two receivers I am considering are a Denon 3311 or a Yamaha 867. I have heard that the Denon 3311 works with the 3D adapter but my question is does the yamaha 867 work with the 3G adapter?



I have the Mits 73837 paired with the Yamaha 867. One of the HDMI outputs from the Yamaha is connected directly to the 3D adapter. 3D blu ray from the PS3 works great. However, I have not been able to view 3D content from Directv, receive an error message that the D* receiver is not connected to a 3D TV.


----------



## Avfan5

Thanks.


I have read somewhere that people with the yamaha 667 had a firmware update that fixed their problem with directv 3d.


Have u heard anything like that?


----------



## tfried




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Avfan5* /forum/post/20372839
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> I have read somewhere that people with the yamaha 667 had a firmware update that fixed their problem with directv 3d.
> 
> 
> Have u heard anything like that?



I updated the firmware of the 867, v2.15 I believe. That added Pandora Radio, which is great, but did not fix the Directv problem.


----------



## fdbjr

I have a 73833. I never installed the firmware update, but have no problem with 3D from DirectTV. But I do have a problem that the TV persists in renaming the input 'DVD' instead of 'game', when I try to watch a 3D dvd. (The device is a Samsung, but I believe the problem is at the TV level.) I noticed a couple of users had this problem. Did anyone solve it?


----------



## Avfan5

I went ahead and purchased the yamaha 867 and updated the software as soon as I got it. I have great news for people with a Mits 65638 (have to use 3d adapter). My directv 3d works perfectly with the Yamaha 867 receiver. I am able to use both the hdmi outputs and send 2d content to one hdmi input on my tv and 3d content to the other hdmi input and it works flawlessly. Furthermore, the setiing on the hdmi input with 2d has 3d off and the hdmi input with 3d on it has 3d turned on. It is perfect.


I just wanted everyone to know that this receiver is perfect for people that cannot stand black crush (caused by 3d adapter) and want their 3d on a separate input than their 2d content.


----------



## odenspike

I have a 82738 with the new firmware so only using the IR emitter from the kit now. Was happy to bypass the box. No problems and hadn't watched 3d in a few months and last night went to try to watch a 3d disc and 3d direct and the glasses wouldn't appear to synch. The red light is lit on the emitter and no problems with the 3d video being displayed on the tv but I couldn't get not 1 of 4 glasses to synch. They all turn and off so I know not a battery issue. I unplugged and plugged the emitter multiple times, tried to switch from ir to dlp link and back to see if that helped but did nothing. Any suggestions? All I could guess is maybe emitter is lit up but maybe bad now for some reason??


Thanks!


----------



## walford

Do I understand correctly that you have the the new firmware installed for your 738 and that you have the IR emitter from the kit installed and connected directly from the TV and enabled in the TV? Also you have 4 sets of IR glasses from the kit but only one set of them works? And you have the DLP-Link disabled on the 728 and you have no DLP-link glases?


----------



## odenspike

Walford sorry what I meant was I couldn't get any of the glasses to work. Yes to everything else. Everything worked fine at first after the firmware update. Prob watched about 5 movies with no problems but then didn't watch anything in 3d for 3-4 months now none of the glasses will synch. Emitter light is on all the time and when go to 3d channel or BR the tv is showing the source in 3d but it is like the glasses aren't synching even though emitter is lit up and glasses are all on.


Thanks for the help.


----------



## walford

So without the glasses on the 3D image is blurred and when you put on the glasses does the blurring go away but you get no depth or does the image stay blurred?

Did you try changing or recharging the battery in one of the glasses to insure that it was fully charged. Some NI-MH batteries can loose about 3% of their charge a day.


----------



## odenspike

Correct image stays blurred. The glasses are turning on and off at least the power button lights up according. I didn't change any of the batteries since it looked like they were all powering on and off ok and 2 of the glasses had only been used once and none of the 4 are rechargeable.


I will get a new battery and swap out just to rule out battery related.


----------



## odenspike

Ok. Well here is the problem and boy it was an easy fix. Tried new battery no luck so looked at settings again and switched glasses to reverse and all is well. I don't recall ever changing them before to that originally. But works all now for directv and BR. Don't know why didn't try that before.


Thanks for the help walford.


----------



## dodkalm81

I have a Mitsibishi 833, The 3d Starter Kit, and the new Panny 310. I can not get the 3d to work, because the TV automatically recognizes the 310 as a DVD player, and will not let me switch it over to game mode. I use to run the 3d thru the Ps3 which worked fine except I had to run the audio thru my Tv. How do i get the TV to let me change the input mode to game?


----------



## lujan

I had the same problem with my 73833 and panny. I had to change a setting in the panny not to automatically pass the input. I forget the setting though. I'll have to wait until I get home to know.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Avfan5* /forum/post/20410293
> 
> 
> I went ahead and purchased the yamaha 867 and updated the software as soon as I got it. I have great news for people with a Mits 65638 (have to use 3d adapter). My directv 3d works perfectly with the Yamaha 867 receiver. I am able to use both the hdmi outputs and send 2d content to one hdmi input on my tv and 3d content to the other hdmi input and it works flawlessly. Furthermore, the setiing on the hdmi input with 2d has 3d off and the hdmi input with 3d on it has 3d turned on. It is perfect.
> 
> 
> I just wanted everyone to know that this receiver is perfect for people that cannot stand black crush (caused by 3d adapter) and want their 3d on a separate input than their 2d content.



The 3D adapter does not "cause" black crush. The black crush is caused by a mismatch of colorspace settings between devices. The adapter requires Video level (16 to 235) colorspace. If you send it PC levels (0 to 255), which are mapped differently, you'll get black crush. It's like trying to put diesel fuel into a gasoline engine, or gasoline into a diesel engine. It just won't work.


Using separate inputs for 3D only half solves the problem, as you will still see black crush on your 3D input. 3D is dark enough without dealing with that. The only way around this is to change the colorspace settings in the source device, in which case you wouldn't need the second input anyway.


The Sony PS3 has the capability to output either Video or PC level video signals to the adapter, and is adjustable in the menus. Unfortunately, it seems not all source devices are created equally. Last year, there was a problem with some DirectTV satellite boxes that could only send PC levels and evidently this has still not been solved.


Blame the Sat box, not the adapter.


----------



## ajricaud




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Augerhandle* /forum/post/20459744
> 
> 
> The Sony PS3 has the capability to output either Video or PC level video signals to the adapter, and is adjustable in the menus.



Can you tell me which is the proper setting in the PS3, please?


----------



## tlogan6797




> Quote:
> The black crush is caused by a mismatch of colorspace settings between devices.



Hmmmm...I thought the black crush was caused by the DLP white flash on MIT DLPs that can't turn off DLP in 3D mode. Also, I thought the whole "bypassing the adapter" was to be able to have multiple 3D/non 3D sources and not have to swap cables and change 3D menu settings to avoid the DLP White flash when switching to a non-3D source (thus, "bypassing" the adapter").


----------



## JOHNnDENVER

The black crush is not caused by the white flash, that results in a washed out image with little contrast until you put on the DLP link glasses.


----------



## lujan




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dodkalm81* /forum/post/20457757
> 
> 
> I have a Mitsibishi 833, The 3d Starter Kit, and the new Panny 310. I can not get the 3d to work, because the TV automatically recognizes the 310 as a DVD player, and will not let me switch it over to game mode. I use to run the 3d thru the Ps3 which worked fine except I had to run the audio thru my Tv. How do i get the TV to let me change the input mode to game?





> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *lujan* /forum/post/20458694
> 
> 
> I had the same problem with my 73833 and panny. I had to change a setting in the panny not to automatically pass the input. I forget the setting though. I'll have to wait until I get home to know.



Go to "Setup" on your Panny, then "TV/Device Connection" and then set "VIERA Link" to "Off" and see if that fixes the problem.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajricaud* /forum/post/20460063
> 
> 
> Can you tell me which is the proper setting in the PS3, please?



Check both of the following.

_Settings> Video Settings> BD/DVD Video Output Format (HDMI)> RGB


Settings> Display Settings> RGB Full Range (HDMI)> Limited_


You can run a test pattern before and after to see the difference. Pretty much any THX disc will have a test pattern with 7 shades of black. If you are set up wrong, the 3 darkest bars to the left will all appear as one shade of black (black crush).


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tlogan6797* /forum/post/20460209
> 
> 
> Hmmmm...I thought the black crush was caused by the DLP white flash on MIT DLPs that can't turn off DLP in 3D mode. Also, I thought the whole "bypassing the adapter" was to be able to have multiple 3D/non 3D sources and not have to swap cables and change 3D menu settings to avoid the DLP White flash when switching to a non-3D source (thus, "bypassing" the adapter").



No, JOHNnDENVER is correct, black crush is a different problem than the white flash.


It's like stating the temperature, but not stating Fahrenheit or Celsius. The adapter is looking for one scale, and you're sending it information in another scale.


Simply stated, black crush is when the TV thinks the 0-15 of the PC level is black. It is looking for 16-235, with 16 being black. In PC video (0-255), zero is black and 16 is just a shade of grey, but the adapter is expecting the 16-235 range, so it tries to map everything under 16 to black. This results in all the shades of grey from 1-15 being shown as black.


Because of this, several of the darkest bars in a test pattern will appear to be one shade of black, and you will lose several layers of detail in your content.


Bypassing the adapter in order to avoid having to change the 3D settings in the TV or swap cables is okay I guess, but the OP stated he was doing so to avoid the black crush on 2D. As stated, if the source is set up correctly, black crush is not even an issue. Also, I personally don't find changing the 3D settings in the TV to be such a chore when switching between 2D and 3D.


----------



## tlogan6797

OK, I stand corrected. Thanks for the explanation!


----------



## ajricaud




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Augerhandle* /forum/post/20462253
> 
> 
> Settings> Display Settings> RGB Full Range (HDMI)> Limited[/i]



Is there some reason that it should be set to "Limited", rather than "Full"?


----------



## LosifYopsin

Hello everyone


I have the following equipment:


WD-65638

Panasonic DMP-BDT210

3DC-1000 starter kit


I have everything connected and working. I do think I may have the "black crush" that I am reading about when passing the signal through the adapter and I am looking for a way around that.


Questions:


1. Can I bypass the adapter and connect the blu-ray player directly to the TV and only use the emitter? I believe the Panasonic is capable of producing checkerboard output.


2. How do I make the red light on top of the emitter turn off? As long as the power on the adapter is on, the red light is on. If the power on the adapter is not on, I do not have a signal on the TV.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajricaud* /forum/post/20465721
> 
> 
> Is there some reason that it should be set to "Limited", rather than "Full"?



Limited and Full is just what Sony calls Video and PC. Limited is the 16-235 range, while Full (PC) is the 0-255 range. Noobs think they might be missing something because it says "Limited", but Full doesn't give you "more", as the zero in _Full_ is the equivalent of 16 in the _Limited_ range. Think of 32 degrees Fahrenheit vs 0 degrees Celsius. They both are the freezing point of water. It's just a different scale, and they had to call it something.


Once you set it to Limited, games will display correctly, but RGB may be bypassed for DVDs and Blu-rays if the _Video Output Format (HDMI)_ setting is set to _Auto_ or _Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr_, so you also must set that to _RGB_.


Again, screen up any test pattern with black bars similar to this.












Any THX DVD should have a similar pattern with seven black bars.


If you can't adjust the brightness control to get separate shades of black for all of the bars, you're getting black crush. Switch to the settings I gave you and try again. The difference should be quite obvious.


EDIT: Once you have adjustability, follow the directions on the disc, or turn down the brightness until the two darkest bars blend into one shade, then turn up the brightness and stop just when you can see them as separate shades again.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *LosifYopsin* /forum/post/20466128
> 
> 
> Hello everyone
> 
> 
> I have the following equipment:
> 
> 
> WD-65638
> 
> Panasonic DMP-BDT210
> 
> 3DC-1000 starter kit
> 
> 
> I have everything connected and working. I do think I may have the "black crush" that I am reading about when passing the signal through the adapter and I am looking for a way around that.



I recommend adjusting brightness with a test pattern as shown previously, to determine if you have black crush. If several of the bars blend into one shade of black and you cannot adjust for it with the brightness control, you have black crush.




> Quote:
> Questions:
> 
> 
> 1. Can I bypass the adapter and connect the blu-ray player directly to the TV and only use the emitter? I believe the Panasonic is capable of producing checkerboard output.


If the Panasonic outputs Checkerboard, you do not need the adapter in the loop. Plug the emitter into the emitter jack on the TV.


> Quote:
> 2. How do I make the red light on top of the emitter turn off?As long as the power on the adapter is on, the red light is on. If the power on the adapter is not on, I do not have a signal on the TV.


I don't use an emitter in my setup, but I don't think it turns off unless the power is turned off. I've read that some people cover it with tape.


----------



## ajricaud




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Augerhandle* /forum/post/20466994
> 
> 
> Limited and Full is just what Sony calls Video and PC. Limited is the 16-235 range, while Full (PC) is the 0-255 range. Noobs think they might be missing something because it says "Limited", but Full doesn't give you "more", as the zero in _Full_ is the equivalent of 16 in the _Limited_ range. Think of 32 degrees Fahrenheit vs 0 degrees Celsius. They both are the freezing point of water. It's just a different scale, and they had to call it something.
> 
> 
> Once you set it to Limited, games will display correctly, but RGB may be bypassed for DVDs and Blu-rays if the _Video Output Format (HDMI)_ setting is set to _Auto_ or _Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr_, so you also must set that to _RGB_.



Thank you for your detailed explanation.


----------



## scottm18

I have the A91 Laservue I'm evaluating so being a _2010_ model I have a DLPLink vs Emitter menu choice, which opens up all kinds of options. I can go Pany blu-ray , Mits converter system with either emitter or DLP link glasses. Even the glasses have several options each brand-wise (esp the Link type) and varying degrees of color shift, flickering, and synching issues.


I would definitely *prefer to go with my existing PS3*--so I can dabble with some games--but my *Denon 4308 AVR is "only" 1.3 and won't be upgraded anytime soon just for 3D.* I won't run direct to TV cause I will lose lossless audio--so that's out. I may get a quality monoprice splitter to solve that portion, but there's so many variables. I believe the Mits 3D adapter will work with a 1.3 receiver in Checkerboard mode (PS3->AVR->Adapter->TV), but I don't know that for sure. I'm pretty sure the Pany signal will pass though the AVR if I go that route with DLP link glasses.


Another consideration is that due to custom cabinet I also look up slightly (see attached pic showing 38" start height and great-test bw/color Persopolis movie) so might that effect either DLP link or emitter glasses? *Then there's the Mits 3D kit I'm trying to get from the retailer but 1/2 is not needed if go DLP link.* Talk about confusing--I wish I could try all the options and see what works best. I don't know where to start---maybe with the Pany player that can almost re-coop its cost by selling Avatar...(edit: Have ordered it now). Someone must have similar to my setup--which way works for you?


have my Open Season blu-ray ready to roll which should look fabulous on the 75" screen if I can figure out this 3D mess










Thanks in advance for any assistance.


----------



## Augerhandle

scottm18,


You already have a PS3, so the quickest/cheapest way to get your feet wet is the 3D Adapter only (under $99 http://www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-3DA.../dp/B003S3RKZ4 ), with some cheap (but decent) DLP-Link glasses (under $50 http://www.ultimate3dheaven.com/uldlpliwi3dg.html ). You can then decide if you want to get the Panny or not. Checkerboard will go through your AVR with no problem, but the TV probably won't auto-detect it, and you'll need to switch formats manually. Anyway, for around $150 all in, you'll be all set, and able to make your other decisions easier.


Until a 3D compatible AVR is in your future, your only other option is splitters and switches, or manually switching cables.


Also, I would look into a lower TV stand. While DLP has a pretty wide viewing angle, the vertical angle is slightly limited and you should have it set up so the middle of the screen is at eye level while seated. A 13"-26" high stand is ideal.


----------



## scottm18

Thanks Auger. I think I'm going to try the DLP link route first (as I said I ordered the Pany 110 for just over $100 which Avatar 3D alone almost sells for)--and monitoring some ebay deals for Optoma glasses.


As for the stand, it is "custom" in that the black strip along the top is hiding a matching center channel aligned perfectly for the two side speakers (Innovative Audio cabinets). I am more into audio than video. I've tested the angle for regular viewing and it is OK for that--but not sure if either 3D method will have issue with the elevation. I may have to elevate the _seats_










Guess I'll try it and find out


----------



## Daniel Murray

I know this has been asked but I for got the out come. I have my 3DC-1000 hooked to my D* TV Box. When I watch TV and turn off the 3DC-1000 I looses the pitcher. I turn it back on I get the pitcher back. When I turn off the TV the 3DC-1000 stays on. Is this right or am I missing something? You would think it would still pass Video info to the TV with 3DC-1000 turned off.


All input would help me









Thank you,


----------



## tlogan6797




> Quote:
> You would think it would still pass Video info to the TV with 3DC-1000 turned off.



You would think that, but you would be wrong. The adapter has to stay on all the time.


----------



## teknovit

I have a WD65835 with 3DC-1000 running with my PS3. 3D content looks great from the PS3. I noticed that Cox cable had some free 3D content available so I switched the input on the adapter from the PS3 to the Cox box. I was able to view the 3D content from Cox. The problem is when I change channels on the Cox box (while hooked through the adapter) there is a noticeable delay...the screen turns black for a second or 2 then the channel appears. I was looking at 3D ready AV receivers so I could run both 3D sources to the adapter but if this delay isn't correctable is it worth the investment. Any suggestions would be appreciated


----------



## tlogan6797

teknovit -


I know it's a long thread, but have you searched back through it? There are some long threads on how to do this using an hdmi matrix switch to input both sources and then output one cable directly to the TV and one to the adapter and then to the TV. You may require an EDID spoofer as well for bluray playback.


Search this thread and the forum on some of those keywords and you should find all your answers.


----------



## Daniel Murray

Is DirecTV HR 24-100 boxes still crushing back?


----------



## ajricaud

Here's an interesting 2d-to3d converter for DLP TVs from Monoprice; they are very good about returns, too:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...7_Email_P_8048


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajricaud* /forum/post/20616123
> 
> 
> Here's an interesting 2d-to3d converter for DLP TVs from Monoprice; they are very good about returns, too:
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...7_Email_P_8048



It says projectors not TVs.

3D output format: Red/Cyan, Side-By-Side (Half), Frame Sequential


----------



## ajricaud




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *DenisG* /forum/post/20616740
> 
> 
> It says projectors not TVs.
> 
> 3D output format: Red/Cyan, Side-By-Side (Half), Frame Sequential



Actually it states 3d TV AND 3d projector. Mits DLPs are rear projection and they also have a front projector, I think. It's a good question, though, that potential buyers need to follow-up w/ Monoprice.


----------



## DenisG




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajricaud* /forum/post/20617240
> 
> 
> Actually it states 3d TV AND 3d projector. Mits DLPs are rear projection and they also have a front projector, I think. It's a good question, though, that potential buyers need to follow-up w/ Monoprice.



It outputs frame sequential = front projector, not checkerboard = rear DLP.


----------



## ajricaud

Quote:

Originally Posted by *DenisG* 
It outputs frame sequential = front projector, not checkerboard = rear DLP.
The current Mits 738 and 838 models do side-by-side, from Mits. specs:

"Mitsubishi 3DTVs (738 and 838 series) currently support the side-by-side 3D signal format. For support of other 3D formats, such as top-bottom and frame packing (3D Blu Ray standard), Mitsubishi 3DTVs will require the use of a 3D source device that outputs the 3D checkerboard format or a 3D source device coupled with the Mitsubishi 3D adapter."


It would be kinda klugey, but I suppose you could feed the Monoprice box's output to the Mits 3d adapter, then out to the TV for older Mits TV's.


As an aside I recently read that Mits is bailing out of LCDs and will concentrate on DLPs. Good news for us in the future.


----------



## NSX1992

I lost my 3D adaptor remote control (2 buttons) so I called Mitsubishi parts for a replacement. Since it is not listed he checked with his boss and informed me that it was not available. I told him to tell the higherups that I am cancelling my plan to purchase the new 92" $6,000 TV coming out in 2 months.


I bought the first 65" DLP and own a 73" and 82". I have been very supportive of Mitsubishi as they have the best 3D sets (bigger is better) but I am very upset that I can't buy a simple remote (I refuse to pay $100 for a new adaptor).


----------



## nc88keyz

just pick up a harmony one for that kinda coin, honestly. Im sure the codes are available.


Those credit card style remotes are always overpriced, I would expect to pay at least 40-45 bucks from a parts department.


Harmony ones were as low as 79.99 with a little work from logitech last week.


----------



## Mounta1n




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NSX1992* /forum/post/20691619
> 
> 
> I lost my 3D adaptor remote control (2 buttons) so I called Mitsubishi parts for a replacement. Since it is not listed he checked with his boss and informed me that it was not available. I told him to tell the higherups that I am cancelling my plan to purchase the new 92" $6,000 TV coming out in 2 months.
> 
> 
> I bought the first 65" DLP and own a 73" and 82". I have been very supportive of Mitsubishi as they have the best 3D sets (bigger is better) but I am very upset that I can't buy a simple remote (I refuse to pay $100 for a new adaptor).



I see them on Ebay for about $50.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NSX1992* /forum/post/20691619
> 
> 
> [snip]... I am cancelling my plan to purchase the new 92" $6,000 TV coming out in 2 months. ...I am very upset that I can't buy a simple remote (I refuse to pay $100 for a new adaptor).



The 92" does not require an adapter, so you won't need the remote anyway.


If you still need it, look in the crack between the seats and the back of the sofa...


----------



## Paul.R.S

To add to the already-provided logical advice re the misplaced adapter remote: Look at Amazon Marketplace. If you must have a replacement, try selling your adapter online underpricing the competish. Walt's TV is currently selling the adapter package for just under $70. I bet you could sell your adapter _sans_ remote for $50, buy a Like New complete adapter package and thereby get your replacement remote for an out-of-pocket cost less than what Mitsu would charge to sell you the remote _a la carte_ IF they did so.


IMO it seems a little foolish to chop off your 92 inches of enjoyment nose to spite Mitsu's indifferent face.


----------



## mr_jbloggs

Are the glasses in this starter kit better than the Samsung glasses (2 pairs with 3D Shrek movies kit)?


The price of the Mitsubishi kit seems to hovering around $260 and the Samsung sit which includes 4 3D Shrek movies, is priced under $150, that is why I'm considering the Samsung glasses.


----------



## rad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_jbloggs* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Are the glasses in this starter kit better than the Samsung glasses (2 pairs with 3D Shrek movies kit)?
> 
> 
> The price of the Mitsubishi kit seems to hovering around $260 and the Samsung sit which includes 4 3D Shrek movies, is priced under $150, that is why I'm considering the Samsung glasses.



If they are the Samsung IR glasses they work fine, I 5 pairs that worked just as good as the Mitsubishi.


----------



## Paul.R.S




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_jbloggs* /forum/post/20694505
> 
> 
> Are the glasses in this starter kit better than the Samsung glasses (2 pairs with 3D Shrek movies kit)?
> 
> 
> The price of the Mitsubishi kit seems to hovering around $260 and the Samsung sit which includes 4 3D Shrek movies, is priced under $150, that is why I'm considering the Samsung glasses.



The glasses in the 3DC-1000 *are* the Samsung / _Shrek_ kit glasses: the SSG-2100s. Only the _Megamind_ starter package (and likely all other DreamWorks Animation bundles going forward) includes the third gen SSG-3100s (which are Bluetooth and not IR). But 3DC-1000 Mitsu kit glasses are the same as those in the "Train Your Dragon," "Monsters v. Aliens" and _Shrek_ Starter Kits.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *mr_jbloggs* /forum/post/20694505
> 
> 
> Are the glasses in this starter kit better than the Samsung glasses (2 pairs with 3D Shrek movies kit)?
> 
> 
> The price of the Mitsubishi kit seems to hovering around $260 and the Samsung sit which includes 4 3D Shrek movies, is priced under $150, that is why I'm considering the Samsung glasses.



The samsung kit doesn't include a 3D adapter and IR emitter, however. Which TV do you own, and what are you trying to accomplish?


----------



## walford

Only the Samsung 2010 IR 3D glasses are the same as the Mitss kits glases. The Samsug 2011 3D TVs use BlueTooth glasses which are not compatible with the Mits IR emitter


----------



## NSX1992




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *NSX1992* /forum/post/20691619
> 
> 
> I lost my 3D adaptor remote control (2 buttons) so I called Mitsubishi parts for a replacement. Since it is not listed he checked with his boss and informed me that it was not available. I told him to tell the higherups that I am cancelling my plan to purchase the new 92" $6,000 TV coming out in 2 months.
> 
> 
> I bought the first 65" DLP and own a 73" and 82". I have been very supportive of Mitsubishi as they have the best 3D sets (bigger is better) but I am very upset that I can't buy a simple remote (I refuse to pay $100 for a new adaptor).



Thank you all for your suggestions but I have some good news.I contacted Eric Van Kannel,Account Executive at Mitsubishi and he will send me the remote free of charge. Now that is good customer service and now I will have to reconsider buying the 92".


----------



## darynm

I just noticed on amazon tonight that the Mitsubishi 3DC-1000 3D Starter Pack is selling for 199.99 plus shipping. I have been waiting as I have been seeing them for 250.00 plus. I was hoping to wait until the 150.00 mark for the kit, but I figure at these prices they will probably move...


----------



## jbMSU

Anyone heard of these universal Blick glasses?

http://www.3dglassesunlimited.com/-c-44_125.html


----------



## Buddyl33

Can anyone recommend a low cost HDMI switch that supports the passthrough of 3D? My reciever doesn't support 3D so if I want to switch 3D sources I have to switch HDMI cables currently.


----------



## tlogan6797

Depends on what you consider low cost. Start your search at monoprice. THe 4x4 matrix is somewhat popular around here.


----------



## Wryker

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Buddyl33* 
Can anyone recommend a low cost HDMI switch that supports the passthrough of 3D? My reciever doesn't support 3D so if I want to switch 3D sources I have to switch HDMI cables currently.
I bought a switch from Mono and it works great.


----------



## SL9780

Hello, I looking for the best emmiter to buy to use with my SSG-2100ab glasses on my 73838 tv. Should I look for the original emitter or is there something better on the market?


Thanks,


Michael


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *SL9780* /forum/post/20752901
> 
> 
> Hello, I looking for the best emmiter to buy to use with my SSG-2100ab glasses on my 73838 tv. Should I look for the original emitter or is there something better on the market?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Michael



I don't know if it's better, but it's available and relatively cheap.

http://www.ultimate3dheaven.com/3dtrformisa3.html


----------



## knobby

i have this emitter with 4 pairs of their glasses and the range is excellent.the emitter is small but has at least a 30 foot range with my tv.i have a samsung hlt5687s model.hope this helps with your decision.


----------



## darynm

I currently own the Panasonic DMPBDT310 and I am thinking about getting these glasses. Do i need the emitter? I have a Mitsubishi 82837 tv.


----------



## ajricaud

Monoprice has a new 3d capable 5X1 switcher for $25:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...4_Email_P_8203


----------



## njfoses

So are the glasses that came with this kit compatible with the 2011 mits dlp's? I read something about mits changing the protocol?


----------



## ajricaud




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *njfoses* /forum/post/20854474
> 
> 
> So are the glasses that came with this kit compatible with the 2011 mits dlp's? I read something about mits changing the protocol?



This is what Mits says about the 2011 models:


*TV and some PC displays have standard overscan. Features, specifications and dimensions are subject to change without

notice. Physical appearance of the television may vary slightly from images shown on this document.

Mitsubishi 3D TVs will support the mandatory HDMI 1.4a 3D signals and a few optional 3D signals intended for the United

States. Specifically, the TVs will support 3D signals known as Frame Packing 1080p @ 24Hz and 720p @ 60Hz (primarily from

Blu-ray players and gaming consoles), Side-by-side in 1080i @ 60Hz, 1080p @24Hz, 30Hz, 60Hz and 720p @ 60Hz, Top/

Bottom in 1080p @ 24Hz and 720p @ 60Hz and Checkerboard in 1080p @ 60Hz. However, there may be some 3D sources

that are not compatible with Mitsubishi TVs. In all cases: (1) 3D sources must connect to the TVs using HDMI inputs; and

(2) Active Shutter 3D glasses with their own external matching synchronization emitter connected to the rear of the TV, DLP

Link Active Shutter 3D glasses which do not require an synchronization emitter, or Active Shutter glasses compatible with the

internal IR emitter in some TV models are required to view 3D content. External synchronization emitters must be compatible

with VESA Stereo connector standards. Please refer to our web site www.mitsubishi-tv.com for the most current information.


Bottom line, if you are talking about the Mits 3d kit w/the adapter and glasses, then, yes the glasses will work if you hookup the emitter that comes w/the kit.


----------



## njfoses




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajricaud* /forum/post/20854938
> 
> 
> This is what Mits says about the 2011 models:
> 
> 
> *TV and some PC displays have standard overscan. Features, specifications and dimensions are subject to change without
> 
> notice. Physical appearance of the television may vary slightly from images shown on this document.
> 
> Mitsubishi 3D TVs will support the mandatory HDMI 1.4a 3D signals and a few optional 3D signals intended for the United
> 
> States. Specifically, the TVs will support 3D signals known as Frame Packing 1080p @ 24Hz and 720p @ 60Hz (primarily from
> 
> Blu-ray players and gaming consoles), Side-by-side in 1080i @ 60Hz, 1080p @24Hz, 30Hz, 60Hz and 720p @ 60Hz, Top/
> 
> Bottom in 1080p @ 24Hz and 720p @ 60Hz and Checkerboard in 1080p @ 60Hz. However, there may be some 3D sources
> 
> that are not compatible with Mitsubishi TVs. In all cases: (1) 3D sources must connect to the TVs using HDMI inputs; and
> 
> (2) Active Shutter 3D glasses with their own external matching synchronization emitter connected to the rear of the TV, DLP
> 
> Link Active Shutter 3D glasses which do not require an synchronization emitter, or Active Shutter glasses compatible with the
> 
> internal IR emitter in some TV models are required to view 3D content. External synchronization emitters must be compatible
> 
> with VESA Stereo connector standards. Please refer to our web site www.mitsubishi-tv.com for the most current information.
> 
> 
> Bottom line, if you are talking about the Mits 3d kit w/the adapter and glasses, then, yes the glasses will work if you hookup the emitter that comes w/the kit.



Thanks!


----------



## slinky88

I have a Mits 73838 and did the firmware upgrade to 12.08 and getting started in 3D setup. I'm running through Yamaha RX-V667 AVR and a Sony 3D Bluray. It is my understanding that I don't need the 3dc1000 adapter kit and just need DLP link 3D glasses. Is this true? If so, any thoughts on what might be a good current choice for DLP link glasses that's okay for kids as well as adults who wear prescription glasses? Thanks.


----------



## ajricaud

I know that this is off topic, but I have read that many posters are hooking up their Mits 3d adapters to Yamaha 3d capable A/V receivers.


Newegg has the Yamaha RX-A2000 AVENTAGE 7.2 -Channel Home Theater Receiver - Black for $879.95 until 11:59PM PDT on Sunday, 9/4/2011:

http://us.mg2.mail.yahoo.com/dc/laun...=e0264jojbp60f 


This receiver has excellent reviews.


----------



## Mounta1n

Quote:

Originally Posted by *ajricaud* 
I know that this is off topic, but I have read that many posters are hooking up their Mits 3d adapters to Yamaha 3d capable A/V receivers.


Newegg has the Yamaha RX-A2000 AVENTAGE 7.2 -Channel Home Theater Receiver - Black for $879.95 until 11:59PM PDT on Sunday, 9/4/2011:

http://us.mg2.mail.yahoo.com/dc/laun...=e0264jojbp60f 


This receiver has excellent reviews.
The signal from the adapter passes through any receiver easily. Checkerboard is HDMI 1.3, not 1.4. The problem is that the adapter only passes 2 channel audio.


----------



## walford

Checkerboard is an optional HDMI 1.4a format and is actually contained within a standard [email protected] buffer transmitted via HDMI and is a therefore a 1/2 resolution format.


----------



## CSOCSO

hello everyone. just ordered my 73640 today, and i have a couple of questions:

So to watch 3d movies on this tv, you would need the convert, the emitter and the glasses? These are all in the starter kit, correct?

Do i need the converter if i use the WDTV live box that does half SBS 3D? Or i just need emitter that connects to the back of the tv and glasses?


----------



## DRaven72




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *CSOCSO* /forum/post/20904449
> 
> 
> hello everyone. just ordered my 73640 today, and i have a couple of questions:
> 
> So to watch 3d movies on this tv, you would need the convert, the emitter and the glasses? These are all in the starter kit, correct?
> 
> Do i need the converter if i use the WDTV live box that does half SBS 3D? Or i just need emitter that connects to the back of the tv and glasses?



Go back to this thread, where you started: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1334815&page=2 


My last post on there. DLP LINK is built into the TV.


----------



## CSOCSO

Thank you, now i understand whats going on with the DLP link and the infa red glasses.

how is the 2d+depth working out for you?


----------



## Card Shark

Hello everyone, I am new here. I just purchased a SR-5005 and have been very impressed with the sound quality. I had to replace my older Harmon Kardon as it did not support HDMI. I have run into a problem and this forum was very highly reccomended. I will try to be as brief as possible. I have a Mitsubishi WD-73833 TV and just recently picked up the 3D adapter for my TV to go along with the Marantz AVR. I am running the following HDMI sources into the Marantz: FIOS HD Cable box, PS3 and Xbox 360. Everything worked beautifully until I added the 3D converter. When I run the HDMI out into the 3D processor then to my TV I get a flashing error message saying that my digital content has been compromised and I will not be allowed to view an picture from my digital inputs. I am not sure which component is creating the error message but I am assuming it is the Marantz as if I take any of my sources and bypass the Marantz I am able to watch 3D however I am only using the TV's speakers. I was hoping for some advice as if there is a compatibility issue with the Marantz, I still have a couple of weeks that I can return it for something else. I seriously hope this isn't the case as I love the sound quality of the Marantz. I appreciate any advice I can get.


----------



## ajricaud

It sounds like an "EDID" problem. This allows for a "handshake " btwn the source (your Marantz) and the TV. Does your Marantz have an Ethernet (network) connector? If so, you can see if the firmware can be updated. Alternatively, many A/V receivers can be updated via their USB connections. An update may clear the problem.


If that doesn't work you can try a Gefen HDMI Detective Plus. It overcomes the EDID obstacle by applying a default EDID signal that the the TV recognizes. The problem is the they are kind of expensive ($85 at Amazon) and you don't have much time to experiment before you may have to return the Marantz:
http://www.gefen.com/kvm/dproduct.jsp?prod_id=8005 


Wish I could be of more help. Hopefully others will be able to help.


----------



## Card Shark

The Marantz does not have an ethernet connection. The Gefen sounds like it might be a solution, however I am concerned about timing as if it does not fix the problem I may lose my time window to return the AVR. I do appreciate the help.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Card Shark* /forum/post/20926100
> 
> 
> Hello everyone, I am new here. I just purchased a SR-5005 and have been very impressed with the sound quality. I had to replace my older Harmon Kardon as it did not support HDMI. I have run into a problem and this forum was very highly reccomended. I will try to be as brief as possible. I have a Mitsubishi WD-73833 TV and just recently picked up the 3D adapter for my TV to go along with the Marantz AVR. I am running the following HDMI sources into the Marantz: FIOS HD Cable box, PS3 and Xbox 360. Everything worked beautifully until I added the 3D converter. When I run the HDMI out into the 3D processor then to my TV I get a flashing error message saying that my digital content has been compromised and I will not be allowed to view an picture from my digital inputs. I am not sure which component is creating the error message but I am assuming it is the Marantz as if I take any of my sources and bypass the Marantz I am able to watch 3D however I am only using the TV's speakers. I was hoping for some advice as if there is a compatibility issue with the Marantz, I still have a couple of weeks that I can return it for something else. I seriously hope this isn't the case as I love the sound quality of the Marantz. I appreciate any advice I can get.



Your Marantz is 3d ready, so I doubt it is the problem, unless there is a setting that needs to be changed. Have you re-run the HDMI setup in the PS3 so it identifies your TV as 3D capable?

To setup 3D on the PS3:

_Settings_> _Display Settings_> _Video Output Settings_> _HDMI_> _Automatic_ Follow the prompts.

If the PS3 doesn't recognize the TV throught the AVR, check cables and AVR settings.


----------



## Card Shark

I did change the settings on the PS3. And turned off HDMI control in the Marantz as I am told that my TV is not compatible with HDMI control. After more attempts last night, I am pretty certain that it has to do with HDCP and the Marantz AVR. I have a guy bringing me an Onkyo AVR to try early next week. IF this solves the problem then I will return the Marantz. I hope the sound quality of the Onkyo is comparable. I really am impressed with the sound quality of the Marantz.


----------



## ajricaud




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Card Shark* /forum/post/20930030
> 
> 
> I did change the settings on the PS3. And turned off HDMI control in the Marantz as I am told that my TV is not compatible with HDMI control. After more attempts last night, I am pretty certain that it has to do with HDCP and the Marantz AVR. I have a guy bringing me an Onkyo AVR to try early next week. IF this solves the problem then I will return the Marantz. I hope the sound quality of the Onkyo is comparable. I really am impressed with the sound quality of the Marantz.



I have read many reviews of various A/V rcvrs. I don't think you can go wrong for audio quality with A/V rcvrs. from Onkyo, Yamaha or Denon. I would say the same from Marantz for audio quality. I think you can probably search this forum regarding the above rcvrs. and get a good idea of what works. Also try this site, go to "Reviews" at the top of the page or enter info into the search box for a specific product:
http://www.hometheater.com/content/y...00-av-receiver 

Good luck.


----------



## Card Shark

Thank you. I replaced an older Harmon Hardon receiver with the Marantz. I thought the HK was excellent until hooking up the Marantz. I could not believe the difference. My wife even commented that she thought I had put in new speakers.


----------



## ajricaud




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Card Shark* /forum/post/20930934
> 
> 
> Thank you. I replaced an older Harmon Hardon receiver with the Marantz. I thought the HK was excellent until hooking up the Marantz. I could not believe the difference. My wife even commented that she thought I had put in new speakers.



I'm pretty sure that a new Harmon Kardon rcvr. at the same price as the Marantz would sound as good. If I remember right, they are both made by Harmon Intl., along with some other good brands (Infinity spkrs.)


----------



## Card Shark

I am currently using Infinity speakers and love them.


----------



## ajricaud




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Card Shark* /forum/post/20935160
> 
> 
> I am currently using Infinity speakers and love them.



Me too.


----------



## bori




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajricaud* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> Me too.



Me too infinity betas all around.


----------



## Card Shark

Ok, I am getting closer. I replaced my Marantz AVR with an Onkyo TX-NR709. This works perfectly with 3D on the PS3 and the Xbox360. The only issue I am having now is with my FIOS Cable. If I connect my Motorola HD DVR QIP 72161 (the FIOS cable box) to my AVR and then run the HDMI output to the 3DC-1000 I get a message that states the digital content has been compromised and the Repeater will not allow any of my HDMI input content to display video. This is the error I was getting with all of my HDMI 3D sources when I had the Marantz receiver. With the help I have been getting this appears to be a HDCP issue. Does anyone know of a solution that could solve this? I am not going to replace the AVR again. I have already spent a lot more than I intended to to add 3D to my Mitsubishi TV. The TV is a WD-73833. I am currently running the HDMI output from the cable box directly to my TV and running the sound from the cable box via an optical cable to my AVR. This means if I want to watch 3D content from my cable box, I currently have to remove the HDMI input on the 3DC-1000 which was coming from the Onkyo AVR and connect the HDMI from my cable box in it's place and everything works fine. I was hoping for a solution that did not involve moving connections around when I want to watch 3D.


----------



## Mounta1n




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Card Shark* /forum/post/20957420
> 
> 
> Ok, I am getting closer. I replaced my Marantz AVR with an Onkyo TX-NR709. This works perfectly with 3D on the PS3 and the Xbox360. The only issue I am having now is with my FIOS Cable. If I connect my Motorola HD DVR QIP 72161 (the FIOS cable box) to my AVR and then run the HDMI output to the 3DC-1000 I get a message that states the digital content has been compromised and the Repeater will not allow any of my HDMI input content to display video. This is the error I was getting with all of my HDMI 3D sources when I had the Marantz receiver. With the help I have been getting this appears to be a HDCP issue. Does anyone know of a solution that could solve this? I am not going to replace the AVR again. I have already spent a lot more than I intended to to add 3D to my Mitsubishi TV. The TV is a WD-73833. I am currently running the HDMI output from the cable box directly to my TV and running the sound from the cable box via an optical cable to my AVR. This means if I want to watch 3D content from my cable box, I currently have to remove the HDMI input on the 3DC-1000 which was coming from the Onkyo AVR and connect the HDMI from my cable box in it's place and everything works fine. I was hoping for a solution that did not involve moving connections around when I want to watch 3D.



Keep in mind that the problem appears to be with the HDCP handshake between your receiver and the cable box. If you had a brand new 3D LCD or plasma you would still want to run all the connections through your receiver and would likely have the same problem. Perhaps there is a newer version of the cable box available, or a firmware update for it? Someone who gets one of the new TV's still has to upgrade their receiver to a HDMI 1.4 version if they want to be able to pass all the signals through their receiver, which is the normal way to do it.


You might want to look at a splitter or switcher from Monoprice. They're usually pretty cheap and it could help you avoid the manual cable changes.


----------



## GEP

A less expensive but not totally perfect solution is to purchase the 3DA-1 adapter alone for cable box. This would be one adpter that works with your receiver and PS3 and Xbox and the second adatper to work with the cable box alone with your optical out of the cable box going to the receiver. The Mitsubsihi web site does show a multiple adapter connection diagram. http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/3D.html#sub_3_5


----------



## NSX1992

I also was forced to buy a switch because FIOS would not go through my Integra 3D AVR and the adaptor. The switch has a remote control so it is not too bad.


----------



## Card Shark

I may have to go that direction as well. I had a friend say something about a HDMI rectifier. I haven't a clue though what he is talking about.


----------



## PaulGo

Motorola has problems with the HDCP. The only solution is a firmware update of the Motorola box. Comcast has a similar problem on some Motorola boxes but they are working in a firmware fix that will hopefully fix the problem.


----------



## Card Shark

Is the firmware update available for the FIOS Motorola box? How do I go about getting the update?


----------



## PaulGo

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Card Shark* 
Is the firmware update available for the FIOS Motorola box? How do I go about getting the update?
The update is pushed out by the headend for a geographic area at one time. You cannot request it.


----------



## alizerothree

Hello there! I am looking to get the Mits starter kit for a WD-82738, as I really want to try out 3d and not have to worry about sync issues. I hear these glasses work and look great, so I want to go the IR route. Where is the best place to purchase? I don't want to overspend if I don't have to. I saw it is about 250 at Tech for Less but they are out of stock. Any suggestions? Cheers!


----------



## nickels55

Does the WD-82738 have a way to disable DLP Link flash? If not I'd reconsider IR route for the cheaper DLP Link glasses.


Ebay has the kits for around $200-300 depending on the seller. On Amazon they are too expensive.


You may want to consider buying everything separate as the adapter is only $100, then you just need to find nice glasses w/emitter. If you go DLP link the total would be like $200 for the adapter and 2 sets of Ultra Clears. The sync issues are no worse from DLP link to IR - if you turn your head away from the TV you'll lose sync with both.


----------



## DenisG

WD-82738 dose not need the converter in the starter kit.


----------



## Card Shark

I am now looking for 2 more pair of glasses. I have a WD-73833 using the Mitsubishi starter kit. Are there glasses that are better than the ones included in the kit?


----------



## DenisG

 http://www.xpand.me/shop/mitsubishi-...ir-3d-glasses/


----------



## sml1974

I recieved the 3DC-1000 Starter Kit for Christmas. I have a 73" inch Model: WD-73C9 Mits TV. I have figured out how to connect to one device, however I was hoping to connect both my Playstation 3 and DirecTV reciever at the same time.


Is this possible? I don't have an A/V Reciever that supports 3D. If it's possible, what do I need to do this? I would really hate to be forced to plug/unplug depending on the device I wanted to use.


I'm very new to all of this, so any expertise any of you have would be great. Also, if giving me directions, please give them to me like I am a child! haha -


Thanks in advance and Merry Christmas!


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sml1974* /forum/post/21396035
> 
> 
> I recieved the 3DC-1000 Starter Kit for Christmas. I have a 73" inch Model: WD-73C9 Mits TV. I have figured out how to connect to one device, however I was hoping to connect both my Playstation 3 and DirecTV reciever at the same time.
> 
> 
> Is this possible? I don't have an A/V Reciever that supports 3D. If it's possible, what do I need to do this? I would really hate to be forced to plug/unplug depending on the device I wanted to use.
> 
> 
> I'm very new to all of this, so any expertise any of you have would be great. Also, if giving me directions, please give them to me like I am a child! haha -
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance and Merry Christmas!



You can't - you can, though, buy an inexpensive switch/splitter (that's what I did). I can't speak for Direct TV (I have Comcast) but you can buy a 2x1 (or more) splitter/switch and have both HDMI inputs go into the switch and the one HDMI output go to the 3D adapter. Get one through monoprice. Merry Christmas!


----------



## scottm18

True...but passing true 3D signals using a splitter can be problematic and may work sporadically. Depending on the age of the receiver, I would upgrade it--you can find very inexpensive 3D receivers now (Onkyo for $180 at the Big River site or check your local Craigslist as a receiver is solid state and should be fine). Keep in mind neither DTV (Side by Side) or the PS3's "engineering tweak" passes TRUE 3D (HDMI 1.4 required) You'll only find more 3D need such as if you ever upgrade to a dedicated blu-ray player, so you'll ideally need the receiver.


I also looked into the splitter option (make sure you read monoprice reviews and notice that more than 2 inputs gets pricey quickly) but ultimately upgraded an already nice receiver and simply sold it for a pretty good price to someone who wanted great sound but didn't need 3D. Needed it to go with the amazing Oppo 95--which does true 3D and just about everything else


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scottm18* /forum/post/21398492
> 
> 
> True...but passing true 3D signals using a splitter can be problematic and may work sporadically. Depending on the age of the receiver, I would upgrade it--you can find very inexpensive 3D receivers now (Onkyo for $180 at the Big River site or check your local Craigslist as a receiver is solid state and should be fine). Keep in mind neither DTV (Side by Side) or the PS3's "engineering tweak" passes TRUE 3D (HDMI 1.4 required) You'll only find more 3D need such as if you ever upgrade to a dedicated blu-ray player, so you'll ideally need the receiver.
> 
> 
> I also looked into the splitter option (make sure you read monoprice reviews and notice that more than 2 inputs gets pricey quickly) but ultimately upgraded an already nice receiver and simply sold it for a pretty good price to someone who wanted great sound but didn't need 3D. Needed it to go with the amazing Oppo 95--which does true 3D and just about everything else



Not sure what problems you've heard about but having been using a splitter for several years now and have never had an issue and it's much cheaper than any receiver. And a 4 x 1 is very inexpensive. In fact, in my set up I have 2 splitters and one switch/splitter and they all work without any issue.


----------



## ajricaud




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sml1974* /forum/post/21396035
> 
> 
> I recieved the 3DC-1000 Starter Kit for Christmas. I have a 73" inch Model: WD-73C9 Mits TV. I have figured out how to connect to one device, however I was hoping to connect both my Playstation 3 and DirecTV reciever at the same time.
> 
> 
> Is this possible? I don't have an A/V Reciever that supports 3D. If it's possible, what do I need to do this? I would really hate to be forced to plug/unplug depending on the device I wanted to use.
> 
> 
> I'm very new to all of this, so any expertise any of you have would be great. Also, if giving me directions, please give them to me like I am a child! haha -
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance and Merry Christmas!



I have your same setup and am using one of these switches--working fine:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Port-HDMI-...item3a5a95874e 


I usually use products from monoprice but this switch works great and is very inexpensive. Shipping was pretty quick, too.


----------



## swak

I recently bought the mits 3dc-1000 starter kit just to get the adapter for my 2008 73835, I will be using DLP Link glasses so I don't need the ir emitter or ir glasses that came with the kit. How much are they worth? Anyone interested in them can pm me.


----------



## old corps




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *swak* /forum/post/21667618
> 
> 
> I recently bought the mits 3dc-1000 starter kit just to get the adapter for my 2008 73835, I will be using DLP Link glasses so I don't need the ir emitter or ir glasses that came with the kit. How much are they worth? Anyone interested in them can pm me.



Or me....










Ed


----------



## swak

Anyone tried the aftermarket emitter that allows using IR glasses and DLP glasses at the same time?


Are the same IR glasses suapplied in the kit worth keeping if I get the above emitter?


----------



## nickels55

I use the 3DA-1 emitter and this emitter:
http://www.amazon.com/Protocol-Gen2-...3&sr=1-2-spell 

(As seen by the review)


If I could start over I'd never get any emitter and stick with DLP Link glasses. On my set the IR glasses do not block the DLP link flash so the blacks have a red tint. As long as your glasses or emitter have the ability to switch polarity you can use them with DLP Link glasses.


----------



## swak

Thanks, guess it will be best for me to sell the emitter and glasses from the kit then. $150 or best offer.


----------



## sjchmura

I ahve a 73736 and a Mits 3DA converter box.


My setup:


XBOX/PS3/HTPC -> Onkyo 608b (HDMI1.4a/3D)-> 3DA-1 box -> HDMI 1 of TV.


1. As we know the 3DA-1 crushes blackseven in 2D and this is 80% of what I watch

2. There is no discrete "3D on" so getting 3D setup is kinda painful (have to adjust brightness, colors etc).


So someone suggested a distribution amp or switch that would "split" my Onko output into 2.... so One would go into HDMI1 on the TV and the second to the 3DA-1/Emmitter -> TV on HDMI2.


Since the TV and Perfect color etc can be set to ALWAYS have say HDMI2 in 3D mode, bright, and crank down the green level this would be idea - 1 switch adn done


Has anyone tried doing this? I guess I need 1 input 2 output switch that is 3D compatible.


Thoguths?


----------



## swak

I am using a splitter to do what you described so i just power on the adapter when needed and switch inputs. Got the splitter from monoprice

.


----------



## sjchmura

Do you know the model number....???? I want the 1x2 and not 2x1 correct¿ The first number is Input second output .... Right??!?


----------



## Mounta1n




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sjchmura* /forum/post/21708072
> 
> 
> Do you know the model number....???? I want the 1x2 and not 2x1 correct¿ The first number is Input second output .... Right??!?



I got the 2x2, but I don't have an HDMI1.4a receiver, I have the NR-807. Read the descriptions though to determine whether it's outputs or inputs in a 1x2. Different manufacturers may use different numbering systems. I don't think they have a standard for that yet


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sjchmura* /forum/post/21708072
> 
> 
> Do you know the model number....???? I want the 1x2 and not 2x1 correct¿ The first number is Input second output .... Right??!?



I got my 4 x 2 from monoprice too. It's 3D compatible however you can't feed one output to your AVR and the other to the adapter unless you use the coax audio for one output. I tried this for my PS3 and it would just 'blink'.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/21708469
> 
> 
> you can't feed one output to your AVR and the other to the adapter unless you use the coax audio for one output.



He's looking to put it between the AVR and the TV, not between the sources and the AVR. So the audio will be stripped out upstream of the HDMI distribution amp anyway, and he only needs a 1x2.


----------



## swak

This what i just bought http://www.monoprice.com/mobile/Prod...goryId=1011306 don't know what Onkyo you have but older ones won't pass 3d.


----------



## Mounta1n




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Wryker* /forum/post/21708469
> 
> 
> I got my 4 x 2 from monoprice too. It's 3D compatible however you can't feed one output to your AVR and the other to the adapter unless you use the coax audio for one output. I tried this for my PS3 and it would just 'blink'.



I'm using one to split the output from my PS3, with one going to my receiver and one going to the adapter. I also have optical out from the PS3 to the receiver. Only when using 3D content I switch the audio to the optical output. It's only 3D material that the receiver can't deal with. Otherwise, this is a nice way to still have full Blu-ray quality sound for all the non-3D movies I watch without having to switch any wires. Although I do have to change the audio output in the PS3 menu, but only for 3D, which isn't that often at this point...


This of course has nothing to do with the previous poster's question since he has an HDMI 1.4 receiver, but I didn't want folks to think you can't run a splitter off the PS3 output to solve some of these technical issues without resorting to buying a new receiver.


----------



## Wryker




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mounta1n* /forum/post/21709006
> 
> 
> I'm using one to split the output from my PS3, with one going to my receiver and one going to the adapter. I also have optical out from the PS3 to the receiver. Only when using 3D content I switch the audio to the optical output. It's only 3D material that the receiver can't deal with. Otherwise, this is a nice way to still have full Blu-ray quality sound for all the non-3D movies I watch without having to switch any wires. Although I do have to change the audio output in the PS3 menu, but only for 3D, which isn't that often at this point...
> 
> 
> This of course has nothing to do with the previous poster's question since he has an HDMI 1.4 receiver, but I didn't want folks to think you can't run a splitter off the PS3 output to solve some of these technical issues without resorting to buying a new receiver.



Correct - that's what I was doing but decided to buy a 3D BD player for @$80 that had an HDMI and component output. I use the HDMI out for video to the 4 x 2 and the component to connect 7.1 audio to my receiver: now I have HD pic and audio using my 1.3 Denon 3808 receiver. I got the 4x2 to allow for any future connections.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sjchmura* /forum/post/21707831
> 
> 
> 
> [snip]... 1. As we know the 3DA-1 crushes blackseven in 2D and this is 80% of what I watch...



The 3DA-1 only crushes blacks if it is receiving a mismatched video signal.


If you're using a PS3, use these settings:

_Settings> Video Settings> BD/DVD Video Output Format (HDMI)> RGB_

_Settings> Display Settings> RGB Full Range (HDMI)> Limited_


More about it here_. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post20462332_

__________________


----------



## scottm18

My 3D mode freaks out onscreen (mottled/flickering/grainy image) and it's (luckily) not the BD player, the receiver, or hopefully the TV. Regular cable in the TVs 3D mode is fine, but when I run a sample cable 3D movie it starts again. That leaves the adapter I think. Apparently Mits has discontinued this as individual and it's very difficult to find without paying an arm and a leg. Why would they discontinue this? How are we with a L&5-A91 supposed to get 3D since they won't/can't firmware update it to support it directly...


I guess buy the whole starter pack with everything else in here useless for me?


----------



## sjchmura

Crushing blacks:


So having my HTPC nvidia 580 set to "limited" I cannot calibrate using the abs forum blu-ray down to 16. Taking the 3DA out works fine. Best I can do is stop crushing at 18.


Anyway the pain of the need for switching to 3d and calibration sounds like the posters suggestion of a 1x2 is brilliant (OnkYo 608b hdmi 1.4 -> 1x2 ) so I can always keep hdmi 1 on the tv for 2d and hdmi 2 for 3d


----------



## Darin

I don't think the crushed blacks issue is as simple as sending it the wrong luminance scale. I get crushed blacks when going through the 3DC-1000 even when the source is my DirecTV DVR, and DirecTV should using 16-235. I can double-check tonight, but I don't think there's even an option for changing the scale in the DVR.


----------



## swak




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *scottm18* /forum/post/0
> 
> 
> 
> I guess buy the whole starter pack with everything else in here useless for me?



Yeah, that's what i had to do. hoping to sell the glasses and emitter. Anyone needing these pm me.


Edit: glasses sold, still have new never used emitter.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/21713056
> 
> 
> I get crushed blacks when going through the 3DC-1000 even when the source is my DirecTV DVR, and DirecTV should using 16-235. I can double-check tonight, but I don't think there's even an option for changing the scale in the DVR.



FWIW, I checked, and could not find any settings on the DVR to change the luminance scale _or_ the color space (my understanding is you have to output RGB *and* 16-235 to avoid black crush with the 3DC-1000). So unless I'm missing something, depending on your equipment, bypassing the adapter may be the only way to avoid black crush.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/21718849
> 
> 
> FWIW, I checked, and could not find any settings on the DVR to change the luminance scale _or_ the color space (my understanding is you have to output RGB *and* 16-235 to avoid black crush with the 3DC-1000). So unless I'm missing something, depending on your equipment, bypassing the adapter may be the only way to avoid black crush.



An easy check is any THX DVD. In the video setup menu is a PLUGE with 7-8 gray bars (it has a large THX in the center).


One should be able to adjust so each bar is a separate shade of gray. If you are experiencing black crush, the darkest 3 bars will be one solid shade of black. This is easily tested with the PS3, since it can be swapped back and forth from PC 0-255 and Video 16-235 using the settings I provided.


If you cannot match your source to the adapter, then yes, you will need a workaround, but this statement is still false:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sjchmura* /forum/post/21707831
> 
> 
> 
> [snip]... 1. As we know the 3DA-1 crushes blackseven in 2D and this is 80% of what I watch...



My point was that it is neither the adaptor nor the source at fault, but the _mismatch_ of the two.


If you put deisel fuel into a gasoline engine, it won't run. It is not the deisel pump's fault that your car takes regular gas and won't run, nor is it the car's fault that it doesn't take deisel. It's all about matching what is required to what is provided.


----------



## Darin




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Augerhandle* /forum/post/21737165
> 
> 
> If you cannot match your source to the adapter, then yes, you will need a workaround, but this statement is still false:
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *sjchmura* /forum/post/21707831
> 
> 
> 1. As we know the 3DA-1 crushes blackseven in 2D and this is 80% of what I watch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My point was that it is neither the adaptor nor the source at fault, but the _mismatch_ of the two.
Click to expand...


I would suggest that _Mitsubishi_ is at fault for producing a product that can not properly handle YCC colorspace in an industry where YCC is the standard for digital video. His statement isn't false if it's used in a typical setup that uses YCC.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Darin* /forum/post/21737302
> 
> 
> I would suggest that _Mitsubishi_ is at fault for producing a product that can not properly handle YCC colorspace in an industry where YCC is the standard for digital video. His statement isn't false if it's used in a typical setup that uses YCC.



YCC is a way of encoding RGB to allow compression and storage. RGB is converted to YCC, then back to RGB to be displayed. Your DVR is incapable of decoding YCC to RGB, so I could just as easily suggest that your dish company is at fault, when in fact neither _cause_ the black crush. The mismatch causes it.


Would it have been easier if Mitsubishi enabled both in the adaptor? Yes.


----------



## Augerhandle

Here's a good read: http://www.spearsandmunsil.com/artic...olorspace.html 



> Quote:
> Most people are at least a bit familiar with the way images are formed on a computer monitor or television by combining red, green, and blue dots of varying brightness to form a wide range of colors. That method uses the most common kind of color space, the “ RGB ” space, named for the colors Red, Green, and Blue.





> Quote:
> Given that all the various shiny-disc and broadcast video formats use 4:2:0 natively, one might assume that players would just send the video to the display in that format. But as it turns out, video players are basically required to at minimum convert the video to 4:2:2 in order to send it to the display, because there are standards for storing 4:2:0, but no standards for sending it to a display. While only 4:2:2 is required, many players now also offer the ability to go further and convert the video to 4:4:4, or even RGB.
> 
> And now we get to the meat of this guide. What format should you set your player to output? If you have a video processor, what format should you feed it, and what format should you have it produce? Or does it even matter?
> 
> 
> The answer, as with so many other things in life, is, “It depends.”
> 
> 
> *The Conversion Chain*
> 
> Let’s consider the process necessary to get video off a shiny disc (or from a digital broadcast or cable channel). First the video needs to be converted from 4:2:0 to 4:2:2, then to 4:4:4, then to RGB, and finally it can be fed to the display controller. This is the same process no matter what display technology is being used, whether LCD, DLP, plasma, or CRT. It’s possible to shortcut the process slightly by going directly from 4:2:0 to 4:4:4, but in practice this isn’t used as often as you’d think.
> 
> 
> If you choose to output 4:2:2 from your player to the display, then the display will need to do the scaling to 4:4:4 and then to RGB. If you output 4:4:4 to the display, the display will not need to do any scaling at all, but will need to do the conversion to RGB. If you output RGB to the display, then the display can avoid all conversion steps and send the signal right to the controller. No matter which you choose, the same conversion steps are still happening; all you are choosing is which device is performing the conversion.
> 
> 
> There’s no specific reason that a display or a player would be the optimal place to do these conversion steps. In theory doing the conversion in the display minimizes the amount of data that has to flow across the HDMI link, but in practice HDMI is more than adequate to handle any format all the way up to 4:4:4 or RGB.
> 
> 
> So the key to choosing the right color space to output is finding out which device does a better job of converting color spaces. This is not always easy to evaluate, and it’s quite possible for one device to do a better job in one area, like 4:2:2 to 4:4:4, but do worse in another area, like 4:4:4 to RGB.
> 
> You’d think that if a display handles a 4:2:2 input signal well, then feeding it an RGB signal would be no worse, but in fact some displays do extra work when they are fed RGB, because they convert the signal back to 4:4:4 or even 4:2:2!
> 
> 
> This happens because one or more of their internal processing chips is designed only for one color format. So for these displays, sending in any format other than the one it will use for internal processing will only add extra processing and potentially degrade the image.



The article points no fingers, but goes on to demonstrate how to _match the source to the display_.


----------



## Darin

Are there ANY other HD CE devices intended for use with consumer video that don't properly support YCC? Considering that YCC is the standard that all consumer digital video discs are encoded to, I would expect it to be a very short list. Sure, doing both is even better, but if you're only going to support one, shouldn't it be the standard? RGB is typically for computer graphics, and typically at 0-255. But regardless, we are where we are. We have to deal with it, either by changing our equipment to use RGB 16-235 *if* it has that option, accepting crushed blacks, or bypassing the adapter when it's not needed to at least limit the effects to 3D viewing. I've chosen the latter, since not all of my equipment supports RGB.


----------



## nickels55

So what settings should the PS3 use when displaying 3D through the 3DA-1? What exactly should I go in and change on the PS3 settings?


----------



## Mounta1n




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nickels55* /forum/post/21738188
> 
> 
> So what settings should the PS3 use when displaying 3D through the 3DA-1? What exactly should I go in and change on the PS3 settings?



+1. Now I'm curious as well.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nickels55* /forum/post/21738188
> 
> 
> So what settings should the PS3 use when displaying 3D through the 3DA-1? What exactly should I go in and change on the PS3 settings?



One page back:



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Augerhandle* /forum/post/21711856
> 
> 
> The 3DA-1 only crushes blacks if it is receiving a mismatched video signal.
> 
> 
> If you're using a PS3, use these settings:
> 
> _Settings> Video Settings> BD/DVD Video Output Format (HDMI)> RGB_
> 
> _Settings> Display Settings> RGB Full Range (HDMI)> Limited_
> 
> 
> More about it here_. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post20462332_
> 
> __________________


----------



## bugs123

I'm sure this has been answered before, but here it goes:


If you were to take the adapter out of the box, plug it in the wall without any cables attached to it ( no 3D device attached to back of adapter), then will you see no power on the adapter even when you try to power it on with the adapter power on button? I saw no power at all on the adapter. I read somewhere that it woldn't turn on, but I needed verification of that.


Bugs


----------



## GEP




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bugs123* /forum/post/22028863
> 
> 
> I'm sure this has been answered before, but here it goes:
> 
> 
> If you were to take the adapter out of the box, plug it in the wall without any cables attached to it ( no 3D device attached to back of adapter), then will you see no power on the adapter even when you try to power it on with the adapter power on button? I saw no power at all on the adapter. I read somewhere that it woldn't turn on, but I needed verification of that.
> 
> 
> Bugs



The adatper box will NOT turn on under the conditions you listed.


It must have a live incomming HDMI signal (not just a cable or a turned off source device) comming to HDMI IN jack before you can turn it on. And when there is a signal, it will turn on automatically. This is outside of the automatic 3D 2D switching.


The system is automatic, when you turn on your Blu-ray player or AV Reciever that is connect to the IN, the box turns on automatically and when your turn off that source device the box turns off automatically (saves electrial power when not being actively used).


The manual power ON/OFF function is for conditions like many cable boxes that never stop sending a signal even when turned off. Many cable boxes send a consistant black screen signal even when turned off. In this condition the adapter always sees a signal and will not turn off automatically. If you care about power use, you can still turn if off manually.


----------



## landonsdad

Does anyone else think that non 3d signals look worse going through this adapter. I have it between rec and tv, so all video passes through it.


----------



## bugs123

Thanks GEP. I really appreciate the quick reply on that. You are "Da Man". I'm a new member but have been a lurker for several months.


----------



## tlogan6797




> Quote:
> Does anyone else think that non 3d signals look worse going through this adapter. I have it between rec and tv, so all video passes through it.



Search through this thread for "black crush." A lot of people (including me) have used an HDMI matrix switch to route the 3D adapter around so that it is not in the chain when watching standard 2D.


----------



## Augerhandle




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *landonsdad* /forum/post/22029603
> 
> 
> Does anyone else think that non 3d signals look worse going through this adapter. I have it between rec and tv, so all video passes through it.



See post #2920 (three posts above yours). The PS3 can be set to not crush blacks. Results vary with cable/sat boxes, so tlogan6797's HDMI matrix switch might be your only solution.


----------



## landonsdad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Augerhandle* /forum/post/22034072
> 
> 
> See post #2920 (three posts above yours). The PS3 can be set to not crush blacks. Results vary with cable/sat boxes, so tlogan6797's HDMI matrix switch might be your only solution.



Thanks to you and others here for help.


I am not using a PS3, I use a Panasonic 3d player. Not sure if I am seeing crushed blacks or not. What I see is a video quality loss on normal channels, especially on letters like on cnn, seem blurry.


EPSN in 1080 looks good. Blu rays look good.


I will see if I have a THX dvd and see if I can tell the black issue this way. Any other tricks?


My Denon 3808 and Mits DLP both are supposed to be able to up scale the picture, but I am not sure if they are set to do so or if possible in my setup.


If someone would like to pm me with a phone number to get my amateur questions answered quicker I would appreciate it. Or I could provide a number if allowed and requested through pm.


I was very good with coax, rca, 2d, a/b switches, and splitters, but have fallen behind in times in regards to hdmi and 3d especially.


Thanks.. Rick


----------



## GEP




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *landonsdad* /forum/post/22034242
> 
> 
> Thanks to you and others here for help.
> 
> 
> I am not using a PS3, I use a Panasonic 3d player. Not sure if I am seeing crushed blacks or not. What I see is a video quality loss on normal channels, especially on letters like on cnn, seem blurry.
> 
> 
> EPSN in 1080 looks good. Blu rays look good.
> 
> 
> I will see if I have a THX dvd and see if I can tell the black issue this way. Any other tricks?
> 
> 
> My Denon 3808 and Mits DLP both are supposed to be able to up scale the picture, but I am not sure if they are set to do so or if possible in my setup.
> 
> 
> If someone would like to pm me with a phone number to get my amateur questions answered quicker I would appreciate it. Or I could provide a number if allowed and requested through pm.
> 
> 
> I was very good with coax, rca, 2d, a/b switches, and splitters, but have fallen behind in times in regards to hdmi and 3d especially.
> 
> 
> Thanks.. Rick



Your TV upscales automatically - it has not choice, it must. When you press the INFO key on the remote while watching the TV, you see what the incomming signal is before the automatic upconversion, not what you are seeing on the screen. What you are seeing is 1080p 60Hz at all times. Anything that is not 1080p 60Hz needs to be changed to 1080p 60Hz because that is only way the TV displays a picture. You do not need to do anything to the TV for this to happen.


However if you want it upscaled outside of the TV, for instance in your AVR, then you need to make sure the AVR is set to do that.


As with everything the less upcoversion or fewer conversions the better the final result will be. Blu-ray discs will alwasy look best, then HD channels. DVD discs (remember Blu-ray is not DVD and DVD is not HD) will come in next, followed by SD digital channels, then SD analog channels and pulling up the rear is VHS. The poorer the original signal equals poorer upconversion.


----------



## ajricaud




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *landonsdad* /forum/post/22034242
> 
> 
> Thanks to you and others here for help.
> 
> 
> I am not using a PS3, I use a Panasonic 3d player. Not sure if I am seeing crushed blacks or not. What I see is a video quality loss on normal channels, especially on letters like on cnn, seem blurry.
> 
> 
> Thanks.. Rick



Are you sure that your Panasonic player doesn't support "checkerboard" 3d? Check the specs in the manual and see. If it does, then you can bypass the Mits 3d adapter and connect directly to the TV, assuming you have an empty HDMI input available.


My Panasonic DMP-BDT300 is about 2 yrs. old does checkerboard and works fine w/my Mits TV.


----------



## landonsdad




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ajricaud* /forum/post/22047283
> 
> 
> Are you sure that your Panasonic player doesn't support "checkerboard" 3d? Check the specs in the manual and see. If it does, then you can bypass the Mits 3d adapter and connect directly to the TV, assuming you have an empty HDMI input available.
> 
> 
> My Panasonic DMP-BDT300 is about 2 yrs. old does checkerboard and works fine w/my Mits TV.



Yes my Pan does checkerboard and does not require adapter. My cable box does require adapter and I am not sure about my ps3. It is only used for games and haven't tried 3d game yet.


If my cable box output checkerboard I would be happy. How long or if possible before someone could create a converter to convert other 3d formats to checkerboard, besides the mits kit.


I am surprised I can send all 3d content from cable box and Panny through my 1.3 Denon 3808. Haven't tried PS3. Does any one know about this?


Thanks


----------



## nickels55

The PS3 uses "frame-packing" 3D format and requires the adapter for checkerboard only sets.


----------



## tlogan6797




> Quote:
> Yes my Pan does checkerboard and does not require adapter. My cable box does require adapter and I am not sure about my ps3.



You could still use the HDMI matrix switch to route the Panny AND the cable around the adapter when not needed.


----------



## GEP




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *landonsdad* /forum/post/22047356
> 
> 
> How long or if possible before someone could create a converter to convert other 3d formats to checkerboard, besides the mits kit.
> 
> 
> I am surprised I can send all 3d content from cable box and Panny through my 1.3 Denon 3808. Haven't tried PS3. Does any one know about this?
> 
> 
> Thanks



How possible is it for someone to make a converter from Frame Packed, Top/Bottom, and Side-by-side to checkerboard?


It is always possible. The real question is how many companies can make a profit from the rather few customers for such a product. Remember only Mitsubishi and Samsung DLP Rear Projection TVs from about 3 model years would need such a device. That is really a very small market. The fact that Mitsubishi did is really very surprising. Samsung didn't bother, most likely figuring that there was not enough market for profit.


To see Black Crush, play a 2D Blu-ray, with a lot of dark scenes you know well, without the adapter in place. Select a dark scene that you can see details in the shadows. Play the same with the adapter in place. If you see the same amount of details in the dark scene you are not experiencing Black Crush. If, with the adapter, most of the details in the dark shadows become lost in black, then you have Black Crush. Be careful, as with passing signals through other devices may always cause minor changes as there is no such thing as a perfect device. If there is only a little change, you may be able to compensate satisfactorily with the contrast and brightness controls of the TV.


----------



## tlbauerle

Hi all...


Been a while since I even looked up th 3DC-1000. Now I have a 3D BluRay player...and I'm wondering about compatability.


Since I have a Pioneer Elite, SC-05 which is HDMI 1.3...I assume I cannot pass through a 3D signal from my Sony BDP-S590 to the SC-05 to the 3DC-1000 and into my Mits 65737...correct?


I assume I have to run the HDMI from the Player to the 3DC-1000 to my 65737, and just use optical out from the Player to the SC-05. I know I am missing out of HD Sound that way...but I can't really afford a new receiver.


So...whaddya say?


----------



## tlogan6797

First off, try it. HDMI 1.3 IS high speed and should support 3D. If not, than you are correct in your path. Optical will still get you HD sound, as I understand it, just not the latest lossless stream. Also from what I understand, you probably will NOT hear the difference.


----------



## RSTide

Sorry if this has been covered recently.


I've waded through numerous Mitsubishi 3D threads after recently buying the 3DC-1000 starter pack.


I have a 73833 and I am experiencing the dreaded greenish blue tint with the IR emitter.


Is the only fix to use D link glasses and suffer the rainbow effect, or is there a firmware fix for this problem?


If no other workaround, is there a particular pair of D link glasses that have minimal rainbow issues?


Thanks in advance


----------



## jjknatl

Xpand x104. Tweak the shutter timing to make them close faster and restore the blacks.


Crystal eyes 5 if you prefer dlp link.


----------



## RSTide

Thanks. So the x104 solve the flashing greenish blue tint problem even though they use the IR emitter?


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *RSTide*  /t/1261771/avs-official-mitsubishi-3dc-1000-3d-starter-pack-topic/2910#post_22543349
> 
> 
> Thanks. So the x104 solve the flashing greenish blue tint problem even though they use the IR emitter?



Yes. Depending upon which firmware the x104 ships with, it may solve the tint issue out of the box. The more recent firware which you would likely upgrade to goofs it up again. But with the x104, you can program the shutter timing so you can fix it after the firmware update.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tlogan6797*  /t/1261771/avs-official-mitsubishi-3dc-1000-3d-starter-pack-topic/2910#post_22248456
> 
> 
> First off, try it. HDMI 1.3 IS high speed and should support 3D. If not, than you are correct in your path. Optical will still get you HD sound, as I understand it, just not the latest lossless stream. Also from what I understand, you probably will NOT hear the difference.



You lose lossless with optical yes, but you also lose the extra two channels of the 7.1 soundtrack for those titles that support it. Depending on the content, that may or may not be noticeable. I have detected a difference for some titles that do a good job with 7.1.


----------



## jjknatl




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *tlbauerle*  /t/1261771/avs-official-mitsubishi-3dc-1000-3d-starter-pack-topic/2910#post_22247797
> 
> 
> Hi all...
> 
> Been a while since I even looked up th 3DC-1000. Now I have a 3D BluRay player...and I'm wondering about compatability.
> 
> Since I have a Pioneer Elite, SC-05 which is HDMI 1.3...I assume I cannot pass through a 3D signal from my Sony BDP-S590 to the SC-05 to the 3DC-1000 and into my Mits 65737...correct?
> 
> I assume I have to run the HDMI from the Player to the 3DC-1000 to my 65737, and just use optical out from the Player to the SC-05. I know I am missing out of HD Sound that way...but I can't really afford a new receiver.
> 
> So...whaddya say?



If putting the receiver in the signal path does not work, then does your blu-ray player have a second HDMI out or does it support checkerboard? If so, then you can feed audio (via second HDMI) or both audio and video (with checkerboard video) to your pioneer elite.


----------



## Mounta1n




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *jjknatl*  /t/1261771/avs-official-mitsubishi-3dc-1000-3d-starter-pack-topic/2910#post_22543416
> 
> 
> You lose lossless with optical yes, but you also lose the extra two channels of the 7.1 soundtrack for those titles that support it. Depending on the content, that may or may not be noticeable. I have detected a difference for some titles that do a good job with 7.1.



Also optical does not get you the HD sound, just the regular Dolby Digital or DTS that would be on your DVDs. Is the difference noticeable? Definitely. Will I let it keep me from watching movies in 3D on my system? No, once you're engaged in the movie you don't really notice it that much, and I switch the output back to HDMI when I'm not watching 3D content. Note: I did notice how relatively lame the sound was on the Hunger Games Blu-ray I got from Netflix, which they neuter with only SD sound. There are times when a disc will default to the regular DD or DTS sound, and I'll wonder why it sounds so bad, then I hit Select (PS3), to see the output info, and realize it's playing the DD soundtrack, and switch it to Dolby TrueHD, and it's like a rather thick curtain has been lifted, all of a sudden I'm there. I never complained about the sound on DVDs when that was all I had, but once I got used to the extra fullness, clarity and spaciousness of the lossless HD tracks on Blu-ray, I definitely notice the step down to regular DD or DST. Of course if you're listening through a soundbar, or HTIB, or haven't setup the speakers well, you very well might not be able to notice the difference, just like how people who have their couches too far from the TV, or have poor eyesight can't notice the difference between SD and HD video.


----------



## AnthonyB

Other than manually programming the whole 3 buttons on the remote, has it been entered into the harmony database?


----------



## ffactoryxx

So I just re did my whole Sound System and painted my room.


Last night i went to plug back in my equipment but my 3DA-1 will not power on. The emittor shows red but no light on the box. It worked before.


My setup i have tried.


PS3 -> 3DA1 -> Onkyo RC360 -> 65C9 DLP


PS3 -> 3DA1 -> 65C9 DLP


Any ideas where i am going wrong?


----------



## GEP

1. Unless you have modifed the adapter, do not PS3>3DA-1>Onkyo>TV. Unmodified, it will not work with it's output connected to the Onkyo.

2. Make sure you did not mix up the HDMI IN and HDMI OUT on the adapter. The HDMI OUT connects to the TV, not the HDMI IN. The HDMI IN connects to the source device.

3. Make sure you have the AC/DC power converter properly pluged in to the adapter.

4. Make sure the source device is powered on and suppling a signal to the adapter - the adapter cannot power on without a signal comming from the source device to the adapter on the HDMI IN.


If your Onkyo is 3D compatible the connections should be PS3>Onkyo>(HDMI IN) 3DA-1 (HDMI OUT)>TV.


----------



## ffactoryxx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GEP*  /t/1261771/avs-official-mitsubishi-3dc-1000-3d-starter-pack-topic/2940#post_22690878
> 
> 
> 1. Unless you have modifed the adapter, do not PS3>3DA-1>Onkyo>TV. Unmodified, it will not work with it's output connected to the Onkyo.
> 
> 2. Make sure you did not mix up the HDMI IN and HDMI OUT on the adapter. The HDMI OUT connects to the TV, not the HDMI IN. The HDMI IN connects to the source device.
> 
> 3. Make sure you have the AC/DC power converter properly pluged in to the adapter.
> 
> 4. Make sure the source device is powered on and suppling a signal to the adapter - the adapter cannot power on without a signal comming from the source device to the adapter on the HDMI IN.
> 
> If your Onkyo is 3D compatible the connections should be PS3>Onkyo>(HDMI IN) 3DA-1 (HDMI OUT)>TV.



My receiver is 3d compatible. That is a great idea i did not think of however is it doesnt work from PS3 -> Adapter -> TV...I dont know how hooking it up differently will work.


"If your Onkyo is 3D compatible the connections should be PS3>Onkyo>(HDMI IN) 3DA-1 (HDMI OUT)>TV."


Could there be a capacitor problem?


----------



## ffactoryxx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GEP*  /t/1261771/avs-official-mitsubishi-3dc-1000-3d-starter-pack-topic/2940#post_22690878
> 
> 
> 1. Unless you have modifed the adapter, do not PS3>3DA-1>Onkyo>TV. Unmodified, it will not work with it's output connected to the Onkyo.
> 
> 2. Make sure you did not mix up the HDMI IN and HDMI OUT on the adapter. The HDMI OUT connects to the TV, not the HDMI IN. The HDMI IN connects to the source device.
> 
> 3. Make sure you have the AC/DC power converter properly pluged in to the adapter.
> 
> 4. Make sure the source device is powered on and suppling a signal to the adapter - the adapter cannot power on without a signal comming from the source device to the adapter on the HDMI IN.
> 
> If your Onkyo is 3D compatible the connections should be PS3>Onkyo>(HDMI IN) 3DA-1 (HDMI OUT)>TV.



So I tried PS3 => Adapter => TV Bypassing the Receiver. Still the Emitter lights up but the box seems dead. Am I doing something wrong? Should be this complicated. I also tried with a Cable Box.


----------



## Mounta1n




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ffactoryxx*  /t/1261771/avs-official-mitsubishi-3dc-1000-3d-starter-pack-topic/2940#post_22692203
> 
> 
> So I tried PS3 => Adapter => TV Bypassing the Receiver. Still the Emitter lights up but the box seems dead. Am I doing something wrong? Should be this complicated. I also tried with a Cable Box.



So once you had it hooked up. Did you then go into the PS3 video setup, and select Automatic, to let it detect that you have a 3D display? Did it detect it, and let you select a screen size? I think a single light (on the 3dc-1000) is on when it's just hooked up, and a second light comes on when it starts receiving 3D content.


----------



## ffactoryxx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mounta1n*  /t/1261771/avs-official-mitsubishi-3dc-1000-3d-starter-pack-topic/2940#post_22693814
> 
> 
> So once you had it hooked up. Did you then go into the PS3 video setup, and select Automatic, to let it detect that you have a 3D display? Did it detect it, and let you select a screen size? I think a single light (on the 3dc-1000) is on when it's just hooked up, and a second light comes on when it starts receiving 3D content.



No thats the thing.


I hook my PS3 up directly to Adapter then to TV.


None of the two lights on the adapter light up. The emitter light is on.


I then turn on my PS3 but the Video screen just stays blue when no signal is detected.



On a side note when I had it hooked up PS3 => Onkyo => Adapter => TV, I would turn on the PS3 and hear the sound of the PS3 boot effects from my receiver but still no signal. Its weird.


Does this make sense?


----------



## GEP

While you may have checked and just not said that you checked, please inidcate that you checked which device is on the HDMI IN vs HDMI OUT. Also recheck the power adatper connection to the adapter.


----------



## old corps

Maybe the power supply for the adapter failed??? You could look at it's specs on the back of it and get one for cheap on ebay to try. Worth the try if all else fails.


Good luck!


Ed


----------



## ffactoryxx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *GEP*  /t/1261771/avs-official-mitsubishi-3dc-1000-3d-starter-pack-topic/2940#post_22694192
> 
> 
> While you may have checked and just not said that you checked, please inidcate that you checked which device is on the HDMI IN vs HDMI OUT. Also recheck the power adatper connection to the adapter.



The PS3 attached to the hdmi in and then hdmi out attached to tv



> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *old corps*  /t/1261771/avs-official-mitsubishi-3dc-1000-3d-starter-pack-topic/2940#post_22694276
> 
> 
> Maybe the power supply for the adapter failed??? You could look at it's specs on the back of it and get one for cheap on ebay to try. Worth the try if all else fails.
> 
> Good luck!
> 
> Ed



If the power to the adapter failed then why is the emmitor lit up? Is that powered by the adapter or the cab


----------



## old corps




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *ffactoryxx*  /t/1261771/avs-official-mitsubishi-3dc-1000-3d-starter-pack-topic/2940#post_22694755
> 
> 
> The PS3 attached to the hdmi in and then hdmi out attached to tv
> 
> If the power to the adapter failed then why is the emmitor lit up? Is that powered by the adapter or the cab



The emitter and adapter are two different things. The emitter plugs into the back of your TV and is powered from there. The adapter has it's own power supply that you plug into the wall. You can find what it's specs are for amps & volts on the back of it. I'd look for you but I sold mine some time ago when I got an Epson 3010 projector for our 3D viewing. I'm GUESSING it might very well be the power supply. You DO have it plugged into the adapter and wall socket??? Just do a search on ebay for one. You can find one for just a few bucks there that matches the specs of the Mits one. Search power supplies or power supply under electronics.


Ed


----------



## Quintious

So I'm running into an issue here that hopefully someone can help on.


I've had the 82837 (the 2009 82" 3D ready DLP) for 3 years now. Was given a 3DC-1000 kit for Christmas. The adapter won't turn on, which leads me to believe it's just faulty out of the box, but I want to make sure there's not something I'm missing prior to dealing with the headache of a replacement.


My setup is thus:


A PS3 w/ latest updates

a Yamaha RX V-467 A/V receiver which I (painfully) managed to update the firmware on last night to allow 3D pass-through via HDMI

A DirecTV receiver

The 82837

The 3DC-1000


The PS3 and DirecTV were always routed through the Yamaha. What I did was take the HDMI cable that ran from the Yamaha to the TV, and put it in the HDMI in port of the 3DC adapter. I then took the HDMI cable Mitsubishi gave me with the 3DC and ran it from the HDMI out of the adapter to the HDMI 1 of the TV (where the original HDMI cable ran to). I've got an emitter cable running from the adapter to the TV as instructed, and the actual emitter running from the 3DC to the top of my TV. The emitter itself glows red, even if I unplug the adapter's power cord. I assume it's being powered by the HDMI cables. The adapter itself though, the power light won't come on. Is there some sort of failsafe by which the thing won't light up unless certain conditions are met? The owner's manual makes no mention of this. And if that is the case, what conditions can I implement to get this to happen?


The 3DC kit was brand new btw, not used.


----------



## Milmanias

For DirecTV, you'll need to hook up the Mits adapter directly to the D* box via HDMI; it won't recognize it through a 1.3 HDMI AVR (what I do on my setup is have D* connected via composite to my AVR).


For the PS3, you'll need to hook the PS3 to the Mits adapter then change the options on the PS3 menu to turn 3D on. After that, you can hook the PS3 to the AVR then the AVR to the Mits adapter; the problem is for 3D blu ray movies you'll probably have to bypass the receiver entirely, but it should work for 3D games.


----------



## Quintious

I've tried connecting my DirecTV receiver (HR-24 200) to the adapter directly - adapter won't turn on

I've tried connecting my PS3 to the adapter directly - adapter won't turn on (and I didn't see anything in the PS3 menu about enabling 3D).


In both instances where I do this, my screen remains blue, so the signal isn't getting pushed all the way to the TV with the adapter's power off, I guess? Or is there another issue at play there?


My receiver allows 3D passthru via HDMI, and all of my cables are 1.4 w/ ethernet, so the cabling shouldn't be an issue. I'm leaning towards a defective adapter, but the Mitsubishi office is closed today (and all weekend), so I haven't been able to talk to them.


This whole thing is turning out to be a lot more hassle than it's worth







.


----------



## keb33509

If anyone has a 3da-1, 3dc-1000, or 3dc-100s they would like to sell, please let me know. It is ridiculouse how much some retailers are gauging prices now that it is discontinued. It was $99, now 500!


----------



## nickels55

I disagree. This is not price gouging, it is supply and demand rearing its ugly head. Still lots of demand, while the supply is all but gone. If I put up my 3DA-1 for sale on eBay starting at $1 the final selling price would be around $300. That price is determined by the bidders, so it is the current value of the product. Yes, I originally purchased it for $99, but I also did it about three years ago when they were very easy to find.


Blame Mitsubishi for not making enough adapters, and even more-so Samsung for not doing anything but leaving their customers having to use Mitsubishi equipment. Mitsubishi probably only considered the demand based on their own users, and didn't account for the huge number of Samsung HDTV users that can use it on their sets as well.


Either way, the market has set the >$300 price. Anyone with one would be foolish to sell it for $99 knowing full well the supply of them is gone.


----------



## Paul.R.S

Pro-market values arguments aside, it is IMO disappointing to see a "big" retailer like Walt's selling the 3DA-1 as of this writing for $499.


----------



## nickels55

My tip for you is to search craigslist but not only locally. I have had success paying non-local people via PayPal and they ship me the item. It usually takes a phone call and some smooth talking to make sure nobody gets scammed. Here are a few for sale:
http://tucson.craigslist.org/ele/3507136875.html 
http://austin.craigslist.org/ele/3484595595.html


----------



## AnthonyB

I got my 3D kit for $120 on craigslist. It was brand new. Just keep looking and something will pop up.


----------



## AnthonyB

Why does the emitter light up all the time even if my TV isn't in 3D mode? The only way I can make it turn off is to enable then disable 3D mode.


----------



## keb33509

I really do appreciate the helpful feedback! Thanks guys, I forgot all about Craigslist.


----------



## nyc3dwd60738

im selling my convertor for 250 plus shipping in the us .if intrested pm me


----------



## njfoses

I have 4 pairs of the 3d glasses that came with the starter kit for sale. Glasses are mint, pm me for details.


----------



## ffactoryxx




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *nickels55*  /t/1261771/avs-official-mitsubishi-3dc-1000-3d-starter-pack-topic/2940#post_22773728
> 
> 
> I disagree. This is not price gouging, it is supply and demand rearing its ugly head. Still lots of demand, while the supply is all but gone. If I put up my 3DA-1 for sale on eBay starting at $1 the final selling price would be around $300. That price is determined by the bidders, so it is the current value of the product. Yes, I originally purchased it for $99, but I also did it about three years ago when they were very easy to find.
> 
> 
> Blame Mitsubishi for not making enough adapters, and even more-so Samsung for not doing anything but leaving their customers having to use Mitsubishi equipment. Mitsubishi probably only considered the demand based on their own users, and didn't account for the huge number of Samsung HDTV users that can use it on their sets as well.
> 
> 
> Either way, the market has set the >$300 price. Anyone with one would be foolish to sell it for $99 knowing full well the supply of them is gone.


yep. Same issue. My adapter seems dead but emmitor still lights up when plugged into the emittor input. I've used this thing 10 times. Wtf


----------

