# Aeon Elite screen Cinegrey 3D



## keithj101

Anyone try this out yet? I'm thinking of picking it up, but can't find a single review. Are they ever planning on releasing 110 inch version? Strange it goes from 100 to 120 only.


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## Stuntman_Mike

From what a few Elite reps told me, they will not have a 110" option. I currently have a 110" screen and was going to get a 110" Aeon, but I will go with 120". Since it has no edge, it actually isn't that different in terms of footprint on my wall, so I'm ok with it.


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## keithj101

You going white or Cinegrey 3D?


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## keithj101

Checked with sales rep, they have a 110 in white but no plans to release 110 in Cinegrey. So strange, I guess white is a much more popular choice.


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## Swolephile

The reps are giving out incorrect info. A 110" Aeon with Cinegrey option has been added to the the model number section under the Aeon product listing on the Elite Screens website. So sad that Elite Screens' subpar customer service does not even know what is listed on their own website.


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## Stuntman_Mike

Swolephile said:


> The reps are giving out incorrect info. A 110" Aeon with Cinegrey option has been added to the the model number section under the Aeon product listing on the Elite Screens website. So sad that Elite Screens' subpar customer service does not even kniw what is listed on their own website.


It's listed on their site, but there is no option in their shop to pick it. I've also had 3 different reps tell me that they don't have 110" as an option. Maybe they eventually will.


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## Stuntman_Mike

keithj101 said:


> You going white or Cinegrey 3D?


If this was directed at me, I'm getting the CineGrey 3D. Will be replacing a 110" Da Lite HP 2.4 screen.


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## Swolephile

Stuntman_Mike said:


> It's listed on their site, but there is no option in their shop to pick it. I've also had 3 different reps tell me that they don't have 110" as an option. Maybe they eventually will.


That just means it's in production but they don't have enough of that size to fill orders yet. When they do, the option will become available for sale at various vendors. Thankfully I talked to one of the supervisors there via email. The customer service reps just say "no" whenever they are unsure about an upcoming option.


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## Stuntman_Mike

Swolephile said:


> That just means it's in production but they don't have enough of that size to fill orders yet. When they do, the option will become available for sale at various vendors. Thankfully I talked to one of the supervisors there via email. The customer service reps just say "no" whenever they are unsure about an upcoming option.


Probably, but who knows when they'll have it. I don't know if I'll wait that long. The footprint is only a few inches more than my current screen since the Aeon has no edge, so I will probably just get the 120".


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## Swolephile

Stuntman_Mike said:


> Probably, but who knows when they'll have it. I don't know if I'll wait that long. The footprint is only a few inches more than my current screen since the Aeon has no edge, so I will probably just get the 120".


I agree with you. Elite Screens has been slow to roll out the Aeon Cinegray screens to this point. So who knows when the 110" model with Cinegrey 3d will be released. 120" without the frame will not be that much of an increase as you suggested.

I just wish someone would purchase one of these and post a pic. It is like talking about a black hole every week at this point. We know they exist, but one one has ever seen one.


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## Stuntman_Mike

Swolephile said:


> I agree with you. Elite Screens has been slow to roll out the Aeon Cinegray screens to this point. So who knows when the 110" model with Cinegrey 3d will be released. 120" without the frame will not be that much of an increase as you suggested.
> 
> I just wish someone would purchase one of these and post a pic. It is like talking about a black hole every week at this point. We know they exist, but one one has ever seen one.


I'm very close to purchasing. Probably this weekend. Just wanted to get an idea of how difficult it will be to sell my current screen, first.

Will definitely have pics posted when I get it.


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## Stuntman_Mike

For those that mentioned wanting to buy on Amazon, they have very limited stock of the 100" Aeon screen in CineGrey 3D.


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## Unicron_On_Bass

Can't wait to see some pics of this screen.....


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## keithj101

Yeah come on. Someone buy this and tell us about it! Not it!


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## scottj73

*AEON 100" CineGrey 3D*

I just received my new screen. Purchased it from Focused Technology and it was backordered for about a month in order to get the CineGrey finish. I am pairing this up with a Epson Cinema HD 3500 since I do not have a great light controlled room during the day. Here are a few pics of it mounted and I used the felt strip to add a 15mm edge to absorb and overshoot. I will post images once the projector is installed (hopefully tomorrow if I have time) of use with lights on and without after I have it set up and adjusted for you all to take a look at. I also have the LED kit for the sides of it that I need to install. Cheers - Scott


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## Stuntman_Mike

Very cool.

Was the velvet bezel easy to apply? I was worried about being a little off and not being able to peel it back for fear of messing up the material.

I ordered the 120" on Amazon. They don't have them in stock, but they finally put up a link at least to order so at least I don't have to obsess about it anymore lol. Whenever they get them, they'll ship. Going to order the LED kit, but since it's in stock, I'll wait until the screen is actually in stock. No sense having lights sitting around until then.


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## Swolephile

scottj73 said:


> I just received my new screen. Purchased it from Focused Technology and it was backordered for about a month in order to get the CineGrey finish. I am pairing this up with a Epson Cinema HD 3500 since I do not have a great light controlled room during the day. Here are a few pics of it mounted and I used the felt strip to add a 15mm edge to absorb and overshoot. I will post images once the projector is installed (hopefully tomorrow if I have time) of use with lights on and without after I have it set up and adjusted for you all to take a look at. I also have the LED kit for the sides of it that I need to install. Cheers - Scott


Looks great thus far! Now we just need a pic with some images on it!


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## dmoneyman2323

scottj73 said:


> I just received my new screen. Purchased it from Focused Technology and it was backordered for about a month in order to get the CineGrey finish. I am pairing this up with a Epson Cinema HD 3500 since I do not have a great light controlled room during the day. Here are a few pics of it mounted and I used the felt strip to add a 15mm edge to absorb and overshoot. I will post images once the projector is installed (hopefully tomorrow if I have time) of use with lights on and without after I have it set up and adjusted for you all to take a look at. I also have the LED kit for the sides of it that I need to install. Cheers - Scott


This is what I've been waiting on, it looks really nice. Question, how does the quality seem to you? Seen reviews on amazon from some stating the frame doesn't seem to be very straight (flat). I would like to get a 100-inch for my gaming room i'm trying to set up.


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## keithj101

scottj73 said:


> I just received my new screen. Purchased it from Focused Technology and it was backordered for about a month in order to get the CineGrey finish. I am pairing this up with a Epson Cinema HD 3500 since I do not have a great light controlled room during the day. Here are a few pics of it mounted and I used the felt strip to add a 15mm edge to absorb and overshoot. I will post images once the projector is installed (hopefully tomorrow if I have time) of use with lights on and without after I have it set up and adjusted for you all to take a look at. I also have the LED kit for the sides of it that I need to install. Cheers - Scott



What size is that? Looks great by the way.


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## scottj73

Stuntman_Mike said:


> Very cool.
> 
> Was the velvet bezel easy to apply? I was worried about being a little off and not being able to peel it back for fear of messing up the material.
> 
> I ordered the 120" on Amazon. They don't have them in stock, but they finally put up a link at least to order so at least I don't have to obsess about it anymore lol. Whenever they get them, they'll ship. Going to order the LED kit, but since it's in stock, I'll wait until the screen is actually in stock. No sense having lights sitting around until then.


Yes the velvet was really easy. It comes as a roll about 30mm wide so I just split the difference and folded over the extra to sort of hide the side of the screen better. I think it took me about 45 minutes to build the entire screen. I do recommend having a helper that can hold the frame while you stretch the material at the corners because it is extremely tight. My thumbs were hurting by the time I was done.


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## scottj73

Swolephile said:


> Looks great thus far! Now we just need a pic with some images on it!


Hoping to have the projector mounted and setup tonight if I can send my wife out shopping so she leaves me alone long enough..


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## scottj73

dmoneyman2323 said:


> This is what I've been waiting on, it looks really nice. Question, how does the quality seem to you? Seen reviews on amazon from some stating the frame doesn't seem to be very straight (flat). I would like to get a 100-inch for my gaming room i'm trying to set up.


The quality seems really good in my opinion. The assembly was very straight forward and all my corners lined up near perfectly. It was less than 1mm out of perfect square (can't notice). The velcro channel that you stretch the screen into on the backside is very quality also and looks great when built out.


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## scottj73

keithj101 said:


> What size is that? Looks great by the way.


It is 100"


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## scottj73

Stuntman_Mike said:


> Very cool.
> 
> Was the velvet bezel easy to apply? I was worried about being a little off and not being able to peel it back for fear of messing up the material.
> 
> I ordered the 120" on Amazon. They don't have them in stock, but they finally put up a link at least to order so at least I don't have to obsess about it anymore lol. Whenever they get them, they'll ship. Going to order the LED kit, but since it's in stock, I'll wait until the screen is actually in stock. No sense having lights sitting around until then.


Here is a picture with the backlighting finished. I used a brand called LAVOLTA that I purchased at Parts Express online. It has a nicer remote and a larger power supply (6A) so you can attach more than one 16' roll of LED lights. I also like the fact that the LED lights are sealed with a clear rubber over them so it makes a nicer finish when done. The picture is with max brightness and I need to probably add some more velvet up top to reduce the light bleeding up and reflecting off the ceiling and crown moulding. Its a work in progress....
The pink color was my 5 year old daughters doing....


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## bouf0010

scottj73 said:


> Here is a picture with the backlighting finished. I used a brand called LAVOLTA that I purchased at Parts Express online. It has a nicer remote and a larger power supply (6A) so you can attach more than one 16' roll of LED lights. I also like the fact that the LED lights are sealed with a clear rubber over them so it makes a nicer finish when done. The picture is with max brightness and I need to probably add some more velvet up top to reduce the light bleeding up and reflecting off the ceiling and crown moulding. Its a work in progress....
> The pink color was my 5 year old daughters doing....


thats a great looking setup - cant wait to hear feedback on the cinegrey 3d material 

Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk


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## scottj73

*Up and running with Epson 3000 Cinema HD.....*

Here are some pics for you guys. I have to say that I am extremely impressed with this screen and projector combo! The pictures as you can see show that in the morning time I have an unbelievable amount of ambient light coming in through my windows (atrium style house). The washout is less than my older Samsung rear projection HD by far, and I am showing you in Living Room Color Mode versus Dynamic which does make it brighter. Take a look and see for yourselves. Installation took me about 2 hours of alignment (I have less than 2mm gap in one corner I could try to fix with Keystone Correction eventually)


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## scottj73

*Next project....*

SO now that I have the screen and all the audio working it is time to ask all of you guys for the BEST possible software I can use for a dedicated remote control. These are the items that I want to incorporate into an iPad. I am an Apple guy, so my plan is to order the new iPad Pro in the next week once preorders are available and use it for the room. 

* Lutron Controlled LED can lights for the room, using my iPad or Phone currently
* A water fountain, Lutron outlet controlled by iPad or my Phone currently.
* Onkyo TX-NR646 Receiver w/Dolby Atmos
* Sony Blu-Ray player, model BDP-S6500 w/4K Up Conversion
* The new Apple TV once available (a few weeks I think)
* Charter Cable Box
* Screen Backlighting controlled with Lutron outlet (currently use my iPad or Phone)
* Remote controlled home theater curtains I will get soon to keep my kids from touching the screen.

Open to other ideas that might be cool to add if you guys have some recommendations. Thanks!


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## mylan

scottj73 said:


> Here are some pics for you guys. I have to say that I am extremely impressed with this screen and projector combo! The pictures as you can see show that in the morning time I have an unbelievable amount of ambient light coming in through my windows (atrium style house). The washout is less than my older Samsung rear projection HD by far, and I am showing you in Living Room Color Mode versus Dynamic which does make it brighter. Take a look and see for yourselves. Installation took me about 2 hours of alignment (I have less than 2mm gap in one corner I could try to fix with Keystone Correction eventually)


Pretty good picture with sunlight streaming in, awesome picture at night! Would love to see a photo at night with the LEDs.


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## Stuntman_Mike

mylan said:


> Pretty good picture with sunlight streaming in, awesome picture at night! Would love to see a photo at night with the LEDs.


The LEDs are on in the picture with Mets game and lights out.


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## Stuntman_Mike

Canceled my order of the screen with Amazon and ordered form Elite, but on Amazon yesterday. Don't know if it was a mistake or a one day sale, but the 120" Aeon with CineGrey 3D was cheaper on Amazon (fulfilled by Elite) than it was on Elite's own store. The price dropped in general for the 120" with CineGrey 3D by $100 in general, but it's no longer $140 cheaper on Amazon as compared to Elite. They are the same $100 cheaper price now. Cancelled the original order because it was about $200 cheaper when you consider that Elite wasn't charging tax and Amazon was.

Screen should ship today. Hopefully it comes fast. I will order the light kit when it ships, since that's Prime, and they can get to me at the same time. Will post my impressions and pics when it arrives.


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## Swolephile

I saw the price in the 110" Aeon with Cinegrey was more expensive than the 120" Aeon with Cinegrey. Weird.


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## Stuntman_Mike

Swolephile said:


> I saw the price in the 110" Aeon with Cinegrey was more expensive than the 120" Aeon with Cinegrey. Weird.


Where? On Amazon, today, the 120" is $100 more than the 110". Yesterday on Amazon the 120" was $59 more. On the Elite Shop the 120" was, and still is, $20 more. Never saw the 110" actually more than the 120" on either site.


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## Swolephile

Stuntman_Mike said:


> Where? On Amazon, today, the 120" is $100 more than the 110". Yesterday on Amazon the 120" was $59 more. On the Elite Shop the 120" was, and still is, $20 more. Never saw the 110" actually more than the 120" on either site.


It was listed as more on Amazon last week. I assumed it was a mistake when I saw it. It looks like it has been rectified.


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## Stuntman_Mike

Swolephile said:


> It was listed as more on Amazon last week. I assumed it was a mistake when I saw it. It looks like it has been rectified.


Ah ok. When I saw that it was cheaper on Amazon, but direct from Elite, than it was on Elite's shop, I thought that was a mistake too. It's since been changed, but I got in before thankfully.


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## Stuntman_Mike

My 120" Aeon with CineGrey 3D was just delivered. I'll update with pics and impressions when I'm able to get to setting it up. May not be tonight.


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## dmoneyman2323

Sounds good, can't wait


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## Swolephile

Looks like we have another Elite Screens customer go missing in action after a purchase.


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## mylan

Swolephile said:


> Looks like we have another Elite Screens missing in action customer.


Man really... If it were me, with all my obligations, it might be the weekend before I posted anything..patience...


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## Stuntman_Mike

Lol. Not MIA. Just tough with work and school. When I get home it isn't late, late, but starting to drill and stuff when my neighbor has a newborn at like 8:30pm isn't the the most considerate thing I could do.

I don't have classes on Friday, so I'll get home at a human hour of 6:15pm. If I don't do it tomorrow, it will definitely be early Saturday. I'm more anxious to see what I bought than you guys are, trust me lol. Life just gets in the way of the things that you really want to do a lot of the time.


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## Stuntman_Mike

Got the screen up yesterday. It was a scary installation lol. You have to really pull the fabric a lot to get it on the Velcro on the back. Was praying the whole time that it didn't rip. The velvet border was actually the easiest part of the whole installation. Going in that was the part I was worried most about.

Didn't put the lights on yet. The wife thinks it looks good now and thinks the lights will make it look cheap. I told her I'd hold off for now and told her to sleep on it lol. 

In terms of the screen performance, it is everything I wanted. It does a great job of preserving contrast in ambient light. Better still, it looks fantastic with the lights out. The room is considerably darker with this screen than with my da lite HP screen.

There is no hotspotting and I have seen no sparkle. I have a benq w1070 mounted about 10' 6" from a 120" screen.

In my observation this material performs very similarly to the SI Slate. This material is a darker gray though, which I prefer. Keep in mind that I'm basing this on a sample of the slate and have not seen a full screen.

Black's look pretty much black now as opposed to dark gray on my other screen. Colors pop a bit more as well. Overall image is a bit punchier but obviously a little less bright too. The hit to brightness is less noticeable than the increase in preserved contrast though so I'm more than happy with the tradeoff. 

The material is a very smooth material and I can see no texture of any sort in the image.

Overall I'm extremely satisfied with the screen. We'll if I get this lights on lol. I'll add pictures in my next post.


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## Stuntman_Mike

Here a few pics. It's hard to capture what it looks like in real life though with my cell camera.

Destiny PS4 pics show the screen with overhead can lights on.There are 4 lights total and all bright LED bulbs. It's coming out with a yellow tinge in the pictures that isn't there in real life. Wanted to try and show a picture with some blacks in it to show how the screen keeps them from washing out too bad even with full overhead lights.

The pics of the Giants game are with the blinds open and sunlight coming in from the right side of the screen.


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## Swolephile

Is that a 16:9 screen or a 2:35:1 screen? That first Giants pic DID it for me. Lol. Screen looks very good. I'm torn at this point because I sold my 120" Black Diamond and picked up a 106" Slate screen. Slate screen looks wonderful however I am missing the size of a larger screen.

I'm now looking at possibly getting a 113" Stewart Firehawk screen or a 120" Aeon screen with LED kit. Oh decisions, decisions.


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## Stuntman_Mike

Swolephile said:


> Is that a 16:9 screen or a 2:39 screen? That first Giants pic DID it for me. Lol. Screen looks very good. I'm torn at this point because I sold my 120" Black Diamond and picked up a 106" Slate screen. Slate screen looks wonderful however I am missing the size of a larger screen.
> 
> I'm now looking at possibly getting a 113" Stewart Firehawk screen or a 120" Aeon screen with LED kit. Oh decisions, decisions.


It's 16:9.

It's very much like the slate, so not sure you are missing anything. It's just a slightly darker gray. Other than that, the material looks and feels identical to be honest.


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## Swolephile

Stuntman_Mike said:


> It's 16:9.
> 
> It's very much like the slate, so not sure you are missing anything. It's just a slightly darker gray. Other than that, the material looks and feels identical to be honest.


Ohhhhhh you are tempting me. What projector are you using? And are you using high lamp or low lamp mode?


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## Stuntman_Mike

Swolephile said:


> Ohhhhhh you are tempting me. What projector are you using? And are you using high lamp or low lamp mode?


BenQ W1070. Smart Eco mode.


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## Swolephile

Stuntman_Mike said:


> BenQ W1070. Smart Eco mode.


See this is my fear. The large 120" and up ALR screens look very good when they are getting hit with around 2000 lumens. But when a 120" alr screen is being used with below 2000 lumens it starts to look dim to my eyes.

I love what I'm seeing from my Sony HW40es thus far. But it could not get the job done with a 120" Black Diamond. I'm worried brightness will take a sizable hit with the 120" Aeon screen too. But going from a 106" Slate to a 110" Aeon screen will not be worth the gamble. Although the Cinegrey 3d is lighter than the Black Diamond material so the 120" Aeon with Cinegrey 3d might work for me.

I had a look at the Firehawk today. It's a very nice screen but not worth the coin in my opinion. Not when there are much cheaper options like the Cinegrey material available. I'm sure the Firehawk stood out ten years ago. But technology and cheaper yet comparable materials have caught up to it nowadays.


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## Stuntman_Mike

Swolephile said:


> See this is my fear. The large 120" and up ALR screens look very good when they are getting hit with around 2000 lumens. But when a 120" alr screen is being used with below 2000 lumens it starts to look dim to my eyes.
> 
> I love what I'm seeing from my Sony HW40es thus far. But it could not get the job done with a 120" Black Diamond. I'm worried brightness will take a sizable hit with the 120" Aeon screen too. But going from a 106" Slate to a 110" Aeon screen will not be worth the gamble. Although the Cinegrey 3d is lighter than the Black Diamond material so the 120" Aeon with Cinegrey 3d might work for me.
> 
> I had a look at the Firehawk today. It's a very nice screen but not worth the coin in my opinion. Not when there are much cheaper options like the Cinegrey material available. I'm sure the Firehawk stood out ten years ago. But technology and cheaper yet comparable materials have caught up to it nowadays.


My 1070 is calibrated so it was around 1700 lumens when the bulb was new. I have 3600 hrs on the bulb now. It's plenty bright to me.

Was your BD the 1.4 gain or .8 gain?

If you didn't have the Slate, I'd recommend the Aeon over the Slate, because it's the same screen and cheaper, but since you have the Slate already, I wouldn't go crazy and switch.


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## Swolephile

Stuntman_Mike said:


> My 1070 is calibrated so it was around 1700 lumens when the bulb was new. I have 3600 hrs on the bulb now. It's plenty bright to me.
> 
> Was your BD the 1.4 gain or .8 gain?
> 
> If you didn't have the Slate, I'd recommend the Aeon over the Slate, because it's the same screen and cheaper, but since you have the Slate already, I wouldn't go crazy and switch.


My BD screen was the 1.4 gain and it was very dark. I can't image how dark the .8 gain is. Curiosity got the best of me today so I went ahead and ordered the 120" Aeon with Cinegrey 3D screen today. I'm really excited and hope it's close to the performance of the Slate screen. If it is, I will consider this screen a home run.

If I decide to keep it, I will purchase the LED kit for it next week. I pray that assembly is not too hard with this screen. The one thing I really liked about the Slate is that it came as a one piece item with no assembly required.


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## keithj101

I'm noticing that everyone seems to use the optional velvet border. Does the screen not look as good going with the Zero Edge look?


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## Swolephile

keithj101 said:


> I'm noticing that everyone seems to use the optional velvet border. Does the screen not look as good going with the Zero Edge look?


This was my question as well. I don't plan to use any velvet border at all with mine. I will take pics of it without the velvet border once I get mine set up. This video is what originally sold me on purchasing the Aeon Screen with Cinegrey 3D:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=iX8CUVF5Ido


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## Dominic Chan

Swolephile said:


> This was my question as well. I don't plan to use any velvet border at all with mine.


How do you plan to handle the potential overscan? It's hard to get 100% alignment, down to the pixel level.


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## Stuntman_Mike

I was keeping an open mind about not using the border, but issues with my projector made it necessary. I'm getting bowing at the top and bottom of my image now and the sides don't stretch far enough to left and right of the screen. Likely a result of using more zoom going from 110" to 120" without moving the pj placement. Very annoyed.

Aeon screen is beyond amazing, but enjoyment is marred considerably by this issue. Really don't want to remount (which may or may not work) or get a new projector, but probably my only options as the w1070 is way out of warranty.


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## Swolephile

Dominic Chan said:


> How do you plan to handle the potential overscan? It's hard to get 100% alignment, down to the pixel level.


My projector is currently mounted on a tripod so I'm pretty sure I can get the placement bang on for minimal light bleed. But if there is a little bleed on the screen it won't bother me one bit. 

I like the borderless look and I feel that is what makes this screen stand out. So that is the look I will be going for.


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## Dominic Chan

Swolephile said:


> My projector is currently mounted on a tripod so I'm pretty sure I can get the placement bang on for minimal light bleed. But if there is a little bleed on the screen it won't bother me one bit.
> 
> I like the borderless look and I feel that is what makes this screen stand out. So that is the look I will be going for.


Any light bleed would appear on the wall behind the screen, like a border.


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## Swolephile

Stuntman_Mike said:


> I was keeping an open mind about not using the border, but issues with my projector made it necessary. I'm getting bowing at the top and bottom of my image now and the sides don't stretch far enough to left and right of the screen. Likely a result of using more zoom going from 110" to 120" without moving the pj placement. Very annoyed.
> 
> Aeon screen is beyond amazing, but enjoyment is marred considerably by this issue. Really don't want to remount (which may or may not work) or get a new projector, but probably my only options as the w1070 is way out of warranty.


Sorry to hear this. I have my projector mounted on a tripod right now so changing image size is no issue for me. Your comments have me completely sold on the Aeon screen.I went and purchased the LED kit for it this morning.


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## Stuntman_Mike

Swolephile said:


> Sorry to hear this. I have my projector mounted on a tripod right now so changing image size is no issue for me. Your comments have me completely sold on the Aeon screen.I went and purchased the LED kit for it this morning.


Congrats man. I hope you love it. I think you will.

Can you return your slate?


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## Swolephile

Dominic Chan said:


> Any light bleed would appear on the wall behind the screen, like a border.


I'm confident I won't have that issue. I have not had it with any of the Screens I've owned. And neither my screen location nor my projector location is a permanent mount. So I can move both of them around as needed.


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## Swolephile

Stuntman_Mike said:


> Congrats man. I hope you love it. I think you will.
> 
> Can you return your slate?


Yes I can. I'm going to wait till the Aeon screen gets here to compare the two. Then I will most likely return or sell the Slate screen next week.


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## Dominic Chan

Swolephile said:


> I'm confident I won't have that issue. I have not had it with any of the Screens I've owned. And neither my screen location nor my projector location is a permanent mount. So I can move both of them around as needed.


It's not an issue with most screens as they have a black velvet border specifically meant to mask the light bleed.

With a borderless screen, it's almost impossible to line up the projector right down to the pixel on all 4 edges. The motorized zoom and lens shift motors on my Panasonic AE8000U and JVC X30and are far too coarse for single pixel adjustments. However, if you're using a light strip that would for sure mask the light bleed.


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## tcm2008

looks good, I will get cinegray 3D or cinegray 5D, did you compare which one it's better on lot of cell light,still thinking 110or 120",can you take some video to YouTube. Thanks


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## scottj73

Stuntman_Mike said:


> Here a few pics. It's hard to capture what it looks like in real life though with my cell camera.
> 
> Destiny PS4 pics show the screen with overhead can lights on.There are 4 lights total and all bright LED bulbs. It's coming out with a yellow tinge in the pictures that isn't there in real life. Wanted to try and show a picture with some blacks in it to show how the screen keeps them from washing out too bad even with full overhead lights.
> 
> The pics of the Giants game are with the blinds open and sunlight coming in from the right side of the screen.


Looks fantastic man! I had people over to my house this past few days watching the baseball playoffs and I turned non-believers of front projection into believers. They were amazed at how clear and vibrant the colors were compared to their current LED TV's that are less than a year old. Needless to say there were some not so happy wives by the end of the party after finding out their husbands were going to ditch their setups and go front projection now..haha


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## scottj73

Stuntman_Mike said:


> Here a few pics. It's hard to capture what it looks like in real life though with my cell camera.
> 
> Destiny PS4 pics show the screen with overhead can lights on.There are 4 lights total and all bright LED bulbs. It's coming out with a yellow tinge in the pictures that isn't there in real life. Wanted to try and show a picture with some blacks in it to show how the screen keeps them from washing out too bad even with full overhead lights.
> 
> The pics of the Giants game are with the blinds open and sunlight coming in from the right side of the screen.


Looks fantastic man! I had people over to my house this past few days watching the baseball playoffs and I turned non-believers of front projection into believers. They were amazed at how clear and vibrant the colors were compared to their current LED TV's that are less than a year old. Needless to say there were some not so happy wives by the end of the party after finding out their husbands were going to ditch their setups and go front projection now..haha


----------



## Swolephile

I got my Aeon screen with Cinegrey 3D up last night. Let me say this screen is amazing for the price. Colors are great. Very little hit in brightness. I can easily light up this 120" screen with my Sony HW40es on low lamp.

Screen preserves a good bit of contrast with my single floor lamp on. Can't wait to add the LED kit when it arrives tomorrow.


----------



## Swolephile

I have a little bit of damage to my Cinegrey 3d material so I have to send it back. I went ahead and removed the velvet border to see what the image looked like without it. And I can say it looks much better without the border in my opinion .

I'm not sure if I should keep the screen or return the entire thing. I don't care for the build quality but it looks flat out awesome with no border on the screen. If I get the Firehawk Sabre Screen for the same look it is going to cost much more.

Or even the Black Diamond zero edge is going to cost much more as well and eat up more lumens with its dark screen. As for Aeon I'm tempted to keep it with what I'm seeing now without the border. Never would have bothered putting the border on if not for the rip in my material caused by one of the edges of the metal frame being too sharp.


----------



## Swolephile

I've decided to go ahead and return my Aeon screen.The overall look is great. Especially without the border. However the build quality is not too my satisfaction.


----------



## Swolephile

A few bullet points on the Elite Screens Aeon with Cinegrey 3d

Pros:

Very cost effective. Looks flat out awesome borderless with NO velvet border. Good preservation of contrast with moderate level of ambient light present. Minimal brightness decrease. Whites still look white. Did not appear to alter color balance at all. Outstanding overall picture quality.

Cons

Bad build quality. Frame has sharp edges which can damage screen material which must be wrapped around the corner of the screen's frame. Velvet tape began to peel and wrinkle. Velco on screen material began to loosen and screen material was beginning to peel back from frame.

The Cinegrey 3D material is by far my favorite out of all the screens I've owned thus far. However Elite Screens needs to come up with a better assembly kit. The edges in the frame should have rubber ends to prevent tearing through the screen material. And there should be rings or hooks which connect the screen material to the frame and not velco.


----------



## Stuntman_Mike

Sorry to hear that the screen didn't work out for you.


----------



## RobbieDav

How does it hang gents? I have to mount it over my electrical fuse box and may need to get back there once in a while. You guys think it will be a problem? Thanks in advance


----------



## Stuntman_Mike

RobbieDav said:


> How does it hang gents? I have to mount it over my electrical fuse box and may need to get back there once in a while. You guys think it will be a problem? Thanks in advance


It hangs very easily. There are 2 small brackets that you drill into the wall. Then there is a track that runs the length of the frame on the back that you slip onto the lip of the brackets. It hooks on and hooks off very easily and you can also slide the screen horizontally a good distance, depending on how far apart you place the brackets.


----------



## RobbieDav

Thanks Mike. I got it yesterday but won't be putting it up for a couple weeks as my basement is still in the construction phase. Questions: So another gentleman on this thread had stated that it looks better without the velvet edging. If I went with that would it be better to paint the wall behind it darker. Also I ordered the led lights. Anyone have any feedback on those?

Thx
Robbie


----------



## Stuntman_Mike

So I was having what I thought was an unrelated issue, but now seems related lol.

I have a BenQ w1070 paired with a 120" Aeon Zero Edge with CineGrey 3D. I had been having an issue where either the projected image or the screen was not 16:9. The projected image when lined up perfectly with the top and bottom of the velvet border would not reach the velvet border on the left and right. There was at least an inch gap on either side. Didn't have that issue with my 110" screen that I replaced. Very maddening.

I had been in contact with both BenQ and Elite support trying to find out what the issue was. BenQ was going to RMA the projector. I was hesitant because I wasn't sure it was hardware related. The BenQ rep asked me to measure the viewing area and the projected image to see. I measured the screen itself and the viewable area within the border and it was 16:9. Measured the projected image and it was a bit off, but that could be chalked up to some extent with error in measuring, and in any event was nowhere near enough to be a full inch short on each side. So I checked the Elite site for the dimensions of the screen just to see if there was something amiss. When I measured the screen I got approximately 104 and 3/4" wide and slightly over 59" tall. The dimensions on Elite were 104.9" x 59.1, so no issue there. The viewable area was another matter. It was a lot shorter than what Elite listed. I then saw that they had the velvet border listed at 10mm. 10mm converts to about .4 inches. The velvet border that I actually had on the screen was way bigger than that. It was almost 1.5" thick so more like 30mm.

I told Elite support about this and they didn't know why the velvet tape wasn't 10mm, but said that he checked and that they all are the same size as what I had. Now I still had no reason to think that this made any difference in my situation, as I applied the border perfectly straight using the frame as a guide and when I measured it in many areas across the screen, it always measured the same everywhere. I just had a nagging sense I should take it off anyway. Elite said they would ship me more velvet tape, so I decided to remove the tape that was on the screen. I figured, worst case, if I couldn't get the glue residue off the screen, I would just cover it with the replacement tape. To my surprise, the tape came off rather easily, and the glue residue came off completely with a microfiber cloth dipped into a bowl of hot water and dish washing liquid.

I hung the frame back up, zoomed out, and lo and behold, the projected image fit perfectly. No gap on the sides anymore. A perfectly straight 16:9 image. I was ecstatic since I never really wanted the border on anyway, I did it fearing I would need it to hide slight issues with the projected image that would be very noticeable otherwise on an edgeless screen. I am finally enjoying my screen without any issues and I love it.

That got me to thinking. It makes sense that the border was the issue. The projected image is 16:9. That means that the width is almost double the height. When you apply the velvet border, you are reducing the viewable area by the same number across the screen when you really should be reducing the width by almost twice as much as you reduced the height. For instance a 100" diagonal screen measures 87" in width and 49.5" in height. If I made a screen that was 86" in width and 48.5" in height, is that a 16:9 screen? No it isn't. I reduced the width and height by the same measure (1 inch) and the screen was no longer 16:9. That's what the velvet tape is doing.

The tape is different than bezel. The tape is applied to the actual viewable area of the screen and should be taken into consideration. Bezel is outside of the viewable area and makes no difference how thick they want to make it or whether it needs to factor into 16:9.

Bottom line, don't use the velvet border lol. It looks great edgeless anyway.

I have contacted Elite support again about this and told them my findings and they are looking into it.


----------



## Swolephile

Dominic Chan was spreading fear that the border was somehow necessary. Although there is a video of the Aeon screen being used without a border with no edge bleed. If you use a velvet border, you take away what makes this screen special. 

Which is the borderless window/floating in air look that gives this screen a very open and classic look.


----------



## Stuntman_Mike

Swolephile said:


> Dominic Chan was spreading fear that the border was somehow necessary. Although there is a video of the Aeon screen being used without a border with no edge bleed. If you use a velvet border, you take away what makes this screen special.
> 
> Which is the borderless window/floating in air look that gives this screen a very open and classic look.


True. It was one of the biggest draws of the screen and others like it (DNP, Black Diamond, etc). I liked the way it looked with the lights too, although I ended up not getting them.

The bigger issue of it messing with the format ratio is of bigger concern though. It is a pretty ill conceived idea and they need to come up with a different design option that attaches outside of the viewable area for those that want a bit of bezel.

When I saw your pics of your screen after you removed the border, something told me that the residue could be removed fairly easily and safely. The screen is so smooth and pliable that I figured a bit of soap and water with a tiny amount of pressure would get the job done. So for any out there that have applied the border and would like to remove it, just know that it comes off. Even though Elite says that it's a permanent solution.


----------



## Swolephile

Stuntman_Mike said:


> True. It was one of the biggest draws of the screen and others like it (DNP, Black Diamond, etc). I liked the way it looked with the lights too, although I ended up not getting them.
> 
> The bigger issue of it messing with the format ratio is of bigger concern though. It is a pretty ill conceived idea and they need to come up with a different design option that attaches outside of the viewable area for those that want a bit of bezel.
> 
> When I saw your pics of your screen after you removed the border, something told me that the residue could be removed fairly easily and safely. The screen is so smooth and pliable that I figured a bit of soap and water with a tiny amount of pressure would get the job done. So for any out there that have applied the border and would like to remove it, just know that it comes off. Even though Elite says that it's a permanent solution.


Elite Screens' Cinegrey 3d screen material is the real deal. If they only had better build quality for their screens. I was all set to purchase a Efinity screen with Polarvision material until I saw the screen has the same assembly process as the Aeon screen. I can't deal with the same shortcomings for more money. Which is a shame because the Polarvision is also a great performing material.


----------



## nehal1

Very informative thread for Cinegrey 3D.


----------



## tcm2008

Any one can compare aeon cinegray 3D vs cinegray 5D


----------



## elbie123

Swolephile said:


> A few bullet points on the Elite Screens Aeon with Cinegrey 3d
> 
> Pros:
> 
> Very cost effective. Looks flat out awesome borderless with NO velvet border. Good preservation of contrast with moderate level of ambient light present. Minimal brightness decrease. Whites still look white. Did not appear to alter color balance at all. Outstanding overall picture quality.
> 
> Cons
> 
> Bad build quality. Frame has sharp edges which can damage screen material which must be wrapped around the corner of the screen's frame. Velvet tape began to peel and wrinkle. Velco on screen material began to loosen and screen material was beginning to peel back from frame.
> 
> The Cinegrey 3D material is by far my favorite out of all the screens I've owned thus far. However Elite Screens needs to come up with a better assembly kit. The edges in the frame should have rubber ends to prevent tearing through the screen material. And there should be rings or hooks which connect the screen material to the frame and not velco.



Thanks for sharing your experience. I feel like a little DIY work will offset some of the cons you listed. I'm thinking that deburring the corners of the frame so its not as sharp and not applying the velvet frame at all (as Stuntman_Mike suggested) would suffice. Not sure what I'd do if I ran into the velcro loosening, but I'm sure there's an easy DIY fix for that as well.... 

Christmas is just around the corner....


----------



## Stuntman_Mike

Velcro is almost impossible to get off on mine, It's definitely industrial strength lol.

As far as Christmas is concerned, I've heard rumblings that the CineGrey 3D material is being discontinued, so you may want to jump on it. Stock seems to be scarce already.


----------



## keithj101

I've noticed too that's it's near impossible to find the Aeon in the 3D Cinegrey. Very disappointing. Anyone know what they would discontinue it so quickly? Or are they just slow to manufacture more?


----------



## mishari84

Stuntman_Mike said:


> Velcro is almost impossible to get off on mine, It's definitely industrial strength lol.
> 
> As far as Christmas is concerned, I've heard rumblings that the CineGrey 3D material is being discontinued, so you may want to jump on it. Stock seems to be scarce already.


Cinegrey 3D was just released,and it is ISF certified , unlike it is bigger brother 5D.

100" is available in very good price at many places, just search google shopping.


----------



## Stuntman_Mike

mishari84 said:


> Cinegrey 3D was just released,and it is ISF certified , unlike it is bigger brother 5D.
> 
> 100" is available in very good price at many places, just search google shopping.


ISF cert doesn't mean that they can't discontinue the product. I recommended a friend buy the screen and he spoke with an Elite rep that said it was being discontinued. Whether the rep was mistaken or not, I don't know, but that's what was said. And yes, the 100" is available, but it is hard to find it in any other size, which seems weird.


----------



## elbie123

Stuntman_Mike said:


> ISF cert doesn't mean that they can't discontinue the product. I recommended a friend buy the screen and he spoke with an Elite rep that said it was being discontinued. Whether the rep was mistaken or not, I don't know, but that's what was said. And yes, the 100" is available, but it is hard to find it in any other size, which seems weird.


I don't think they are discontinuing it. I believe they are making changes to the Aeon, which could be halting production and their current inventory/stock. Check out their reply to this review:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-r.../ref=cm_cr_pr_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B00OABT33A


Or they could just be offering the CineGrey 3D material to another series.

It wouldn't make sense for them to discontinue the CineGrey 3D because getting ISF Certification costs a lot of money and takes a lot of time. I'm pretty sure the Aeon frame issues are the culprit of its quiet discontinuance, but believe it should be back (hopefully soon).


----------



## elbie123

Swolephile said:


> A few bullet points on the Elite Screens Aeon with Cinegrey 3d
> 
> Velco on screen material began to loosen and screen material was beginning to peel back from frame.


Swolephile,

By any chance, do you think the velcro was getting loose due to the tear in the screen material? Or was it loosening up prior to the tear?


----------



## Swolephile

elbie123 said:


> Swolephile,
> 
> By any chance, do you think the velcro was getting loose due to the tear in the screen material? Or was it loosening up prior to the tear?


It was loosening up prior to the tears in the screen material.


----------



## Swolephile

keithj101 said:


> I've noticed too that's it's near impossible to find the Aeon in the 3D Cinegrey. Very disappointing. Anyone know what they would discontinue it so quickly? Or are they just slow to manufacture more?


There is still a few left at Focused Technology.com if you are serious about purchasing an Aeon screen with Cinegrey 3D.


----------



## Stuntman_Mike

elbie123 said:


> I don't think they are discontinuing it. I believe they are making changes to the Aeon, which could be halting production and their current inventory/stock. Check out their reply to this review:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-r.../ref=cm_cr_pr_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B00OABT33A
> 
> 
> Or they could just be offering the CineGrey 3D material to another series.
> 
> It wouldn't make sense for them to discontinue the CineGrey 3D because getting ISF Certification costs a lot of money and takes a lot of time. I'm pretty sure the Aeon frame issues are the culprit of its quiet discontinuance, but believe it should be back (hopefully soon).


I had seen that comment before. Not saying that it isn't the case, but it does sound a lot like placating a poor review. Just like with the issue I found with the velvet border. They said they are looking into it. Does that mean they actually are? Who knows? It is a good thing to say whether you actually plan to look into it or not, though.

Maybe the rep in that review is doing damage control, or maybe the rep my friend spoke with was mistaken. Don't know. Time will tell. I'm enjoying mine immensely in the meantime.


----------



## donraja5

Hi, I was looking at both the CineWhite and CineGrey 3D. My room is some what light controlled. What would be better screen for best picture quality? Thanks


----------



## elbie123

donraja5 said:


> Hi, I was looking at both the CineWhite and CineGrey 3D. My room is some what light controlled. What would be better screen for best picture quality? Thanks


I don't know the extent of what your "somewhat" light controlled is, so it's hard for me to say. But if you have light control, it'd be best to go with a white screen. I had the same dilemma.

I just got my Aeon screen with CineWhite material, and it is fantastic. My living room is about 15x15 and I have a large window on the left side of the screen. The blinds block most of the light but picture still got washed out when projecting on the wall. With the screen, I get a (noticeable) bit of a brighter picture, contrast, and way more accurate colors. I can watch with the lamps on if I wanted to (which are on the sides of the screen), but why would I? It's like I jumped from a 0.8 to 1.1 gain factor. Pretty significant.

I couldn't wait for the CineGrey 3D to get back into stock, but they told me that I can always upgrade to it down the line since they'll be selling just the CG3D material as well.


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## Nite_Hawk

Just chatted with Elite customer service, sounds like they aren't going to be getting the aeon with Cinegrey 3D back in stock until end of Feb.  Guess it's time to look for alternatives.


----------



## RobbieDav

Ok so i got mine up. 120 inch no border right now. The problem I have is that I can't line up the picture with the screen. The screen is level the pj is level on a ceiling mount - vpl40es. It seems to be two problems. One the picture won't quite fit the 16:9 format and two I can't seem to get the picture straight On the screen. Incredibly frustrating. Any help people??


----------



## bouf0010

RobbieDav said:


> Ok so i got mine up. 120 inch no border right now. The problem I have is that I can't line up the picture with the screen. The screen is level the pj is level on a ceiling mount - vpl40es. It seems to be two problems. One the picture won't quite fit the 16:9 format and two I can't seem to get the picture straight On the screen. Incredibly frustrating. Any help people??


is the screen perfectly square (parallel) to the pj?

Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk


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## RobbieDav

bouf0010 said:


> is the screen perfectly square (parallel) to the pj?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk


Ok so this is a great question. But how do I check this? 

I believe this has to be the problem, I have played between the pj settings and the pierless (mount) handles for seemingly hours and its just not parallel so i can get one side right and then other side corners are off pretty good off too, height and width. I turn on the led backlights and this hides some of it but its driving me insane. 

On the goodside the picture is stellar!!

I really dont want to put the velvet border on but think this may help some but its not going to solve all the problem. 

This is my first pj so what kind of rookie mistake am i making?

Attached a couple of pics for fun first one running netflix movie, second my boy playing COD


----------



## RobbieDav

RobbieDav said:


> Ok so this is a great question. But how do I check this?
> 
> I believe this has to be the problem, I have played between the pj settings and the pierless (mount) handles for seemingly hours and its just not parallel so i can get one side right and then other side corners are off pretty good off too, height and width. I turn on the led backlights and this hides some of it but its driving me insane.
> 
> On the goodside the picture is stellar!!
> 
> I really dont want to put the velvet border on but think this may help some but its not going to solve all the problem.
> 
> This is my first pj so what kind of rookie mistake am i making?
> 
> Attached a couple of pics for fun first one running netflix movie, second my boy playing COD


So what i have done so far is I put a level on the top and bottom of the screen and confirmed that it is very very close to level.

Then i take a level to the pj and using the mounts adjustment arms make sure that is level. Then start to dial in to match it up to the screen and no dice. it just wont fit perfect.


----------



## RobbieDav

RobbieDav said:


> So what i have done so far is I put a level on the top and bottom of the screen and confirmed that it is very very close to level.
> 
> Then i take a level to the pj and using the mounts adjustment arms make sure that is level. Then start to dial in to match it up to the screen and no dice. it just wont fit perfect.


Am I keystoning the image?


----------



## bouf0010

RobbieDav said:


> So what i have done so far is I put a level on the top and bottom of the screen and confirmed that it is very very close to level.
> 
> Then i take a level to the pj and using the mounts adjustment arms make sure that is level. Then start to dial in to match it up to the screen and no dice. it just wont fit perfect.


rotate the pj left or right in very small increments and see if you can get the top of the image to be parallel to the screen and well as the bottom. then adjust the image with lens shift

Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk


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## stephen77

I know you checked to make sure the screen is level but when you were doing that did you make sure the top & bottom were both flush with the wall. Many times when hanging a screen the bottom of the screen may be a little more snug to the wall then the top. The brackets that are used to hang the screen at the top add half an inch or so. Pull the bottom of the screen out slightly to see if that changes anything. 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## keithj101

RobbieDav said:


> RobbieDav said:
> 
> 
> 
> So what i have done so far is I put a level on the top and bottom of the screen and confirmed that it is very very close to level.
> 
> Then i take a level to the pj and using the mounts adjustment arms make sure that is level. Then start to dial in to match it up to the screen and no dice. it just wont fit perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> Am I keystoning the image?
Click to expand...


I was wondering if you bought Cinewhite or Cinegrey? The screen looks awesome in the photo by the way!


----------



## Swolephile

RobbieDav said:


> Ok so this is a great question. But how do I check this?
> 
> I believe this has to be the problem, I have played between the pj settings and the pierless (mount) handles for seemingly hours and its just not parallel so i can get one side right and then other side corners are off pretty good off too, height and width. I turn on the led backlights and this hides some of it but its driving me insane.
> 
> On the goodside the picture is stellar!!
> 
> I really dont want to put the velvet border on but think this may help some but its not going to solve all the problem.
> 
> This is my first pj so what kind of rookie mistake am i making?
> 
> Attached a couple of pics for fun first one running netflix movie, second my boy playing COD


Screen looks great. No way in hell I would go back to any screen with a velvet border. They look dated and old next to the borderless screens becoming popular today.


----------



## kopkiwi

Would love to know how this stacks up against their Polar Star eFinity screen.


----------



## PW405

Anybody know if this screen is available for sale again? Seems like Elite is a pretty poorly run operation. The screen was delayed initially, then taken off the market a few months after release.. Don't get me wrong, I like their products, but seems like they can't get their stuff together.


----------



## kopkiwi

PW405 said:


> Anybody know if this screen is available for sale again? Seems like Elite is a pretty poorly run operation. The screen was delayed initially, then taken off the market a few months after release.. Don't get me wrong, I like their products, but seems like they can't get their stuff together.


http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/searc...&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&Top+Nav-Search=


----------



## PW405

All back ordered though. Can only fit a 100". I'll try to call tomorrow and see if I can get any info. I must have this screen!!


----------



## [email protected]

Does anyone have an update on this or does anyone have any feedback or experience with the Aeon CLR for ultra short throw projectors?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Eugene Weaver

in case anyone is interested, I just got my Aeon Elite 158" 2:35.1 screen mounted. I received it in ONE day from amazon prime! It was actually quite easy although time consuming. I LOVE this screen. Now to upgrade the Epson 5020UB to a JVC DLA-RS400u to get that 4K e-shift goodness as well as the auto lens shift


----------



## ch1sox

Eugene Weaver said:


> in case anyone is interested, I just got my Aeon Elite 158" 2:35.1 screen mounted. I received it in ONE day from amazon prime! It was actually quite easy although time consuming. I LOVE this screen. Now to upgrade the Epson 5020UB to a JVC DLA-RS400u to get that 4K e-shift goodness as well as the auto lens shift


Did you get Cinegrey or Cinewhite? Nice pictures!


----------



## Eugene Weaver

ch1sox said:


> Did you get Cinegrey or Cinewhite? Nice pictures!


I got the Cinewhite, well worth the $900. My walls and ceiling are all flat dark brown paint and there are no windows so it's a bat cave. I can only imagine what this will look like with the JVC RS400 that I should hopefully have within a week.


----------



## mylan

Eugene Weaver said:


> in case anyone is interested, I just got my Aeon Elite 158" 2:35.1 screen mounted. I received it in ONE day from amazon prime! It was actually quite easy although time consuming. I LOVE this screen. Now to upgrade the Epson 5020UB to a JVC DLA-RS400u to get that 4K e-shift goodness as well as the auto lens shift


Oh yes, very interested, how is the build quality? Others haven't been too pleased but it looks fantastic! Are you going to do the L.E.D Kit?


----------



## Eugene Weaver

mylan said:


> Oh yes, very interested, how is the build quality? Others haven't been too pleased but it looks fantastic! Are you going to do the L.E.D Kit?


I think I'm going to hold off on the LED kit although that was intriguing. I think build quality is quite good. I followed instructions exactly and had absolutely zero issues. It took several hours but once it was done I calibrated by Epson 5020UB and then up and running. 

I watched the Scream Factory release of John Carpenters The Fog in 2:35.1 and while not the most visually stunning, projected on a 158" anamorphic screen it was like watching it for the first time. I loved it. What are the gripes on the screen? Thus far zero issues and this thing is HUGE.


----------



## Eugene Weaver

also, the one picture I posted was from the UK release of Dario Argento's Suspiria. I know the colors are all wrong on that Blu-Ray release but wow was it great to see it on this size screen. Colors really popped. 

I did order the JVC DLA-RS400 then so I'm pretty sure this screen will look even better in a few days.


----------



## Ironman1718

Do NOT order the elite led light kit from Amazon, I ordered 2 and they both burned out the second time I turned them on. I did order the lights from eBay for more than half the price. But due to gravity and lack of stickiness the lights sag a little. They look good but I was searching the SI screen to see how they installed there's and the LED's fit in a channel. Much better than Elites but at twice the cost. I have a 120" ciniwhite screen an am very happy wit it.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Eugene Weaver said:


> also, the one picture I posted was from the UK release of Dario Argento's Suspiria. I know the colors are all wrong on that Blu-Ray release but wow was it great to see it on this size screen. Colors really popped.
> 
> I did order the JVC DLA-RS400 then so I'm pretty sure this screen will look even better in a few days.


Did you get your JVC yet? Curious to know how you like the combo.


----------



## [email protected]

Any word if thins thing is ever going to be manufactured again? The 3D or 5D ALR Aeon? I called back in December and was told February. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mhconley

I just ordered a 110" Aeon in Cinegrey 3D. Just waiting for shipment now...

UPDATE: Well it's backordered to the end of May. They offered a 110" SableFrame in CineGrey 3D instead. Unfortunately I chose the edge-free Aeon because it it the absolute largest screen I can fit on my 97.75" of wall space. I've been researching for several months now, what's another 6 weeks? 

Martin


----------



## Danonano

mhconley said:


> UPDATE: Well it's backordered to the end of May.
> Martin


I think they haven't been manufacturing this screen material for some reason, so I would wonder if that May date is just an estimation. I would call Elite themselves and see if they have any news on that particular screen. Good luck.


----------



## mhconley

Danonano said:


> I think they haven't been manufacturing this screen material for some reason, so I would wonder if that May date is just an estimation. I would call Elite themselves and see if they have any news on that particular screen. Good luck.


I tried buying an Elite Screens 110" Aeon Cinegrey 3D screen from two separate stores. One says it is backordered until late May, the other said early May. Anyway, I turned my room 90-degrees and am no longer limited to a 110" 16:9 screen. I just purchased a Silver Ticket 138" 2.35:1 Silver ALR screen.

Martin


----------



## aerodynamics

What color temperature setting is everyone using with their screens? In comparison to the 5D material, I noticed colors on the 3D look a bit warmer.


----------



## PW405

Spoke with Elite yesterday. The Aeon Cinegrey 3D is back ordered until end of JUNE now. I ordered a sample of their Cinegrey 5D and Cinegrey 3D from Amazon, they both perform pretty well. Had anybody ever tried attaching the "designer cut" material to an Aeon frame? I was thinking about buying an Aeon and then putting different material on it. Tired of waiting!!


----------



## PW405

Also of note, Elite confirmed the Aeon Cinegrey 3D material WILL be sold separately for existing Aeon owners who wish to upgrade in the future. They did not have a deliverable date, but said "later this year". Which likely means 2021.


----------



## PW405

Finally decided to give up on getting an Aeon. Just going to DIY a frame and go borderless with my own LED kit. Amazon has the 135" Cinegrey 3D Designer cut for $90 right now!! Picked that up, and plan to spend another ~$80 on materials. Beats waiting and spending ~$700.


----------



## Danonano

PW405 said:


> Finally decided to give up on getting an Aeon. Just going to DIY a frame and go borderless with my own LED kit. Amazon has the 135" Cinegrey 3D Designer cut for $90 right now!! Picked that up, and plan to spend another ~$80 on materials. Beats waiting and spending ~$700.


Did you end up getting the material and making a frame? Any comments on the Cinegrey 3d material?


----------



## CH11

*Epson 3500 with ES Aeon 110 or Silver Ticket 110 ALR*

Hi, 

I just went through the whole thread and for a rookie buying his first projector, it was like candy for a kid. Very impressive setups and im planning to hop on that bandwagon. 

After more than 8 month of flirting with and studying this project, I've opted for an Epson 3500 combined with an Elite Scree Aeon 110 (1.1 gain, 469$) OR a Silver Ticket ALR 110 (1.5 gain, 399$). I would appreciate anyone's opinion to choose between both. Many have been praising the Silver Ticket product (high build quality, especially). However in both cases, I will have to get it shipped to Montreal, which will cost me more.

Im a proud condo owner, nice little (big) place with cathedral 17-20 feet ceilings. (need 2 more posts before I can post pics) I will be shooting on a (huge) wall from a 17,5 feet distance, placing the Epson across my living room, on a tablet on top of my LCD tv.

If I go with the Silver Ticket, I will most likely build a plywood from on which I would put the screen, to be able to roll around it some LED lights. Im currently searching for good battery operated LED kits in order to avoid having the power supply cable showing anywhere near my screen.

Thanks in advance for your help in making my project a great one !

CH


----------



## dlynch34

Has anyone put up a LED strip on the AEON frame? If so How did you do this? Do you have pictures and or steps you took? 

Thanks


----------



## dlynch34

Is Anyone still following this thread? I decided to change gears and opt to build my own frame with the cinegray 3d material. Amazon has it for 94 bucks. The reason being is I prefer 2:35 aspect and you cannot buy the aeon with the cinegray 3d in that format. It will be a zero edge design as well.


----------



## thepro8

dlynch34 said:


> Is Anyone still following this thread?


I am. i have the Aeon 120" cinewhite in a box on my floor. trying to decide if i'm going to install or swap it out.


----------



## dlynch34

thepro8 said:


> I am. i have the Aeon 120" cinewhite in a box on my floor. trying to decide if i'm going to install or swap it out.


which aspect ratio? Do you have a light controlled room? That is where im having issues with it. If completely dark the cinewhite does a great job...


----------



## thepro8

dlynch34 said:


> which aspect ratio? Do you have a light controlled room? That is where im having issues with it. If completely dark the cinewhite does a great job...


16:9. It's light controlled but i want the ability to have some ambient light at times. I talked to an Elite Screen Reps and gave them a pic of my room. They recommended Cinegrey so i'm exchanging.


----------



## Krob3

CH11 said:


> Hi,
> 
> I just went through the whole thread and for a rookie buying his first projector, it was like candy for a kid. Very impressive setups and im planning to hop on that bandwagon.
> 
> After more than 8 month of flirting with and studying this project, I've opted for an Epson 3500 combined with an Elite Scree Aeon 110 (1.1 gain, 469$) OR a Silver Ticket ALR 110 (1.5 gain, 399$). I would appreciate anyone's opinion to choose between both. Many have been praising the Silver Ticket product (high build quality, especially). However in both cases, I will have to get it shipped to Montreal, which will cost me more.
> 
> Im a proud condo owner, nice little (big) place with cathedral 17-20 feet ceilings. (need 2 more posts before I can post pics) I will be shooting on a (huge) wall from a 17,5 feet distance, placing the Epson across my living room, on a tablet on top of my LCD tv.
> 
> If I go with the Silver Ticket, I will most likely build a plywood from on which I would put the screen, to be able to roll around it some LED lights. Im currently searching for good battery operated LED kits in order to avoid having the power supply cable showing anywhere near my screen.
> 
> Thanks in advance for your help in making my project a great one !
> 
> CH


Which screen did you end up getting? Did you install the LEDS? How do you like the 3500?


----------



## dlynch34

i built my own 235 aspect frame and put on the cinegray 3d and LOVE it. Next up is to add led lights and pics to follow...


----------



## mykebr

dlynch34 said:


> i built my own 235 aspect frame and put on the cinegray 3d and LOVE it. Next up is to add led lights and pics to follow...



How much ambient light do you get? How big is the room and what color are the walls?

Also would you be able to provide pictures or even a video of it being use with the screen exposed to sunlight and without.

Also please update on your process of you adding LED to it.


----------



## dlynch34

mykebr said:


> How much ambient light do you get? How big is the room and what color are the walls?
> 
> Also would you be able to provide pictures or even a video of it being use with the screen exposed to sunlight and without.
> 
> Also please update on your process of you adding LED to it.


My screen is in a open loft area upstairs which has a large window on one side as well as rooms behind the loft with windows as well. The wall directly behind the screen is dark brown while the rest are a creme color. I could not convince the wife to paint the rest any darker. Here are a few pics ... The one was in broad daylight with all windows open which would be a worse case scenario as it is very bright in the room. I installed a subframe to install the LED lights very very simple. I love this screen!!


----------



## Krob3

dlynch34 said:


> My screen is in a open loft area upstairs which has a large window on one side as well as rooms behind the loft with windows as well. The wall directly behind the screen is dark brown while the rest are a creme color. I could not convince the wife to paint the rest any darker. Here are a few pics ... The one was in broad daylight with all windows open which would be a worse case scenario as it is very bright in the room. I installed a subframe to install the LED lights very very simple. I love this screen!!


Great pics! Do you have any pics of the back of the screen with the LEDs? I am not sure how to install them?


----------



## dlynch34

Krob3 said:


> Great pics! Do you have any pics of the back of the screen with the LEDs? I am not sure how to install them?


yea I wrapped LED around the subframe I built with 3m Tape.


----------



## Krob3

dlynch34 said:


> yea I wrapped LED around the subframe I built with 3m Tape.


Thanks! The LEDs really have that "wow" factor!


----------



## mykebr

dlynch34 said:


> My screen is in a open loft area upstairs which has a large window on one side as well as rooms behind the loft with windows as well. The wall directly behind the screen is dark brown while the rest are a creme color. I could not convince the wife to paint the rest any darker. Here are a few pics ... The one was in broad daylight with all windows open which would be a worse case scenario as it is very bright in the room. I installed a subframe to install the LED lights very very simple. I love this screen!!





dlynch34 said:


> yea I wrapped LED around the subframe I built with 3m Tape.


Wow this really sold me on the 3D I believe!! Thank you very much.. and great job with the sub-mount for the LED.


----------



## dlynch34

Eugene Weaver said:


> also, the one picture I posted was from the UK release of Dario Argento's Suspiria. I know the colors are all wrong on that Blu-Ray release but wow was it great to see it on this size screen. Colors really popped.
> 
> I did order the JVC DLA-RS400 then so I'm pretty sure this screen will look even better in a few days.


what is your take on the JVC Projector? I just ordered one myself.


----------



## Datplayaz

I recently got my Cinegrey 3d with the Epson 5030ub, so far I have mix feelings about it. When there's ambient lighting in the room, the picture is great, but when the room is dark, I feel like the picture isn't bright enough. The picture is 2x-3x brighter when I project it on just a plain wall. Is it normal for the picture to be darker with the grey screen?


----------



## lecter84

Datplayaz, 
which version do you have? Aeon or sable frame? 
In case of sable frame, I read somewhere that it is possible to attach the screen material with the wrong side towards the viewer. 
Maybe there is a chance that this causes the big hit to brightness you mentioned?

I am also trying to decide between cinegrey 5d or 3d 110 inch. My throw ratio is 1.55 so I think I will go with the cinegrey 3d, I think the 5d would be brighter but more prone to hotspotting.


----------



## Docj04

Why can't I find a succinct comparison between the cinegrey 3D vs. 5D?


----------



## lecter84

Thats a good question.
I have screen samples here for cinegrey 5D and 3D.
It is hard to tell the difference between the two, at least for me.
MAybe the 5D sparkles a bit more.


----------



## Docj04

I've all but decided that for my first ( and arguably "test') screen that I'm going with the Cinegrey 3D. (best price/performance combo, assuming I can find one in stock anywhere)
Both the Epson calculator and the Elite calculator for the 3D screen indicate that a throw length of 13'8" and 14'6" respectively are the minimum for a 135" screen (14.6 ft as per elite for the actual cinegrey 3D at 135" diagonal)

Although I'm technically at the minimum throw spec for both the PJ and the Screen--I'm still worried about hotspotting and overall PQ issues.
Think I'll be ok?


----------



## zaino

lecter84 said:


> Thats a good question.
> I have screen samples here for cinegrey 5D and 3D.
> It is hard to tell the difference between the two, at least for me.
> MAybe the 5D sparkles a bit more.


Hi there, I refused to get the samples because they wanted to charge me $45 for shipping to canada...crazy!
But I found a great deal on Amazon for the Cinegrey 3d material and I went for it...
It's definitely performing better than my BlackWidow painted screen, but not even close to the Da-Lite Parallax 0.8 sample they sent me.
That thing is crazy, and crazy expensive too (4k for a 77"!)

*My question for you is, since you tried both 3D and 5D, do you think the 5D combats ambient light better than the 3D?
If you could even take a comparison picture, I would be eternally grateful...
*

Here are some pictures. The blackwidow in the back, the Cinegrey 3D is (badly) stretched with some tape, and the small square material is the Parallax.

There is a LED chandelier on, the room is pretty bright.

The Cinegrey 3d definitely is better than BW, mostly because is retains blacks a bit better, but doesn't kill the whites at all.
The Parallax is crazy, even in day light it looks like a plasma, BUT the viewing angles are terrible. If I move to the side of the sofa, the gain is already a half!


----------



## zaino

zaino said:


> Hi there, I refused to get the samples because they wanted to charge me $45 for shipping to canada...crazy!
> But I found a great deal on Amazon for the Cinegrey 3d material and I went for it...
> It's definitely performing better than my BlackWidow painted screen, but not even close to the Da-Lite Parallax 0.8 sample they sent me.
> That thing is crazy, and crazy expensive too (4k for a 77"!)
> 
> *My question for you is, since you tried both 3D and 5D, do you think the 5D combats ambient light better than the 3D?
> If you could even take a comparison picture, I would be eternally grateful...
> *
> 
> Here are some pictures. The blackwidow in the back, the Cinegrey 3D is (badly) stretched with some tape, and the small square material is the Parallax.
> 
> There is a LED chandelier on, the room is pretty bright.
> 
> The Cinegrey 3d definitely is better than BW, mostly because is retains blacks a bit better, but doesn't kill the whites at all.
> The Parallax is crazy, even in day light it looks like a plasma, BUT the viewing angles are terrible. If I move to the side of the sofa, the gain is already a half!


Oh and here a pic of the Parallax in bright day light. I mean blinds fully open at 2PM.
Screen is Black Widow, Parallax is the small square.


----------



## Fraydog07

I just put my elite screen up with led lights behind it on plywood! I think it looks ok, it's just an unfinished basement, but I can't wait to get a projector now... any suggestion on what else I should do... I was thinking black drape cloth in front of the brick wall...


----------



## lecter84

zaino said:


> *My question for you is, since you tried both 3D and 5D, do you think the 5D combats ambient light better than the 3D?
> If you could even take a comparison picture, I would be eternally grateful...
> *
> 
> !


I would say the light rejecting properties are about the same. The cinegrey 3d is a very little bit darker than 5d when placed in the center of the screen and projecting a white image. However when you step around in the room and look onto both samples at a very non optimal angle the 5d is darkening stronger than the 3d. So the 3d has just a little less directivity properties. A little less bright a little less sparkle a little less prone to hotspot. I think one user pointed this out already before me. 
Maybe i will just put some black cloth onto my ceiling as I am mostly interested in fighting the scattered light at night. Daylight projection is not my personal motivation to buy an alr screen.


----------



## lecter84

And sorry I can not take photos of the samples right now because a colleague of mine borrowed the samples to try them out.

I think you bought the designer cut edition of the cinegrey 3d, right?
do you also have the possibility to compare between cinegrey 3d and a matte white screen?

After the comment of user datplayaz I have the fear that the CG 3D picture will finally be very dark compared to matte white.
However some earlier comments by stuntman_mike and swolepile are more positive about this.
Especially swolepile used the cinewhite 3D together with an HW40 on low bulb.

As far as I understood you compared between black widow (which should be a regular grey screen without alr properties?) and cg 3d.
Which projector are you using and how is your screen size and most important: How is your throw ratio?

My throw ratio is somewhere between 1.5 and 1.6. I am using a HW65 with a 110" cinewhite ezframe.


----------



## lecter84

I just realized that I had already taken some shoots of the two samples:

Top: CG 3D
Bottom: CG 5D

Notice the greater brightness drop off of the CG 5D.
White is also a bit warmer on the CG 3D I have the feeling.
But maybe the 5D is just a bit cold?

Hope you find it useful and the pictures are not too big for the forum.


----------



## PeterJ101

lecter84 said:


> I just realized that I had already taken some shoots of the two samples:
> 
> Top: CG 3D
> Bottom: CG 5D
> 
> Notice the greater brightness drop off of the CG 5D.
> White is also a bit warmer on the CG 3D I have the feeling.
> But maybe the 5D is just a bit cold?
> 
> Hope you find it useful and the pictures are not too big for the forum.


Can anyone recommend a good set of LED lights that would fit around the 100" Aeon Screen? Or should I just purchase the Elite brand LED lights? Thanks!


----------



## NastyNov

scottj73 said:


> Here is a picture with the backlighting finished. I used a brand called LAVOLTA that I purchased at Parts Express online. It has a nicer remote and a larger power supply (6A) so you can attach more than one 16' roll of LED lights. I also like the fact that the LED lights are sealed with a clear rubber over them so it makes a nicer finish when done. The picture is with max brightness and I need to probably add some more velvet up top to reduce the light bleeding up and reflecting off the ceiling and crown moulding. Its a work in progress....
> The pink color was my 5 year old daughters doing....


Looks awesome! How many strands of the LED's did you need? I am considering the 110" and would like to go a similar route. Thanks!


----------



## trbizwiz1

here is my DIY 54 by 96 frame for 110 inch 9:16


----------



## trbizwiz1

I did a pine 1x4 frame with a 2x4 off set frame to give it a 3.5 inch off set off the wall. I have some LED ribbon for back lighting that I will put on a wall switch, so I only have to mess with the remote to change colors. 
I used pocket screws and glue to avoid having to get hardware. It came together great. The joints turned out cabinet grade. 
I still have to round over the edges so I do not rip the Cinegrey 3D. The screen came in yesterday, but this is a Christmas present to my family, so I probably will not attach the screen until Christmas eve. Right now it is in the garage, but no one really knows what it is.
We are pairing this with the Epson 2040 that I picked up for a deal on black Friday. 
These are the led lights I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXY5W12/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## PW405

So after much procrastination, I finally finished my LED-back lit "Aeon" using the Cinegrey 3D designer cut I bought 5 months ago! It turned out better than I hoped. Planning to do a post about it. I haven't visited this board since my last post in June, but I find it very interesting that everybody took a unique approach! 

I'm having trouble getting a good picture because my camera sucks, but this is the best one I've got so far:


----------



## sddp

scottj73 said:


> Yes the velvet was really easy. It comes as a roll about 30mm wide so I just split the difference and folded over the extra to sort of hide the side of the screen better. I think it took me about 45 minutes to build the entire screen. I do recommend having a helper that can hold the frame while you stretch the material at the corners because it is extremely tight. My thumbs were hurting by the time I was done.








You weren't kidding!
I just finished putting together a 150" and almost threw out my back. Did it alone & I STRONGLY recommend having a helper as well. Attaching the material in the A-B-C-D format is important but really difficult on a 150"


----------



## dlynch34

PW405 said:


> So after much procrastination, I finally finished my LED-back lit "Aeon" using the Cinegrey 3D designer cut I bought 5 months ago! It turned out better than I hoped. Planning to do a post about it. I haven't visited this board since my last post in June, but I find it very interesting that everybody took a unique approach!
> 
> I'm having trouble getting a good picture because my camera sucks, but this is the best one I've got so far:


great job!! I did a DIY with the cinegrey 3d as well and LOVE it!!


----------



## akka83

Looks great! I'll be going the DIY route as well. Have the Screen and the frame materials at home now. Will do it on Thursday and post some pics if successful


----------



## SXRDISBEST

How does the 3d perform with light colored content? Is there a lot of sparkle? Im trying to replace my old Stewart Firehawk because it's really bad in the sparkly department.


----------



## tgsweat

SXRDISBEST said:


> How does the 3d perform with light colored content? Is there a lot of sparkle? Im trying to replace my old Stewart Firehawk because it's really bad in the sparkly department.


I notice no sparkling. Picture looks great with my benq ht2050 shooting from about 12'. No hot spots as well.


----------



## m-fine

I just picked up a roll of this material to test. I have it stretched across a 119"x67" frame with the seats and projector both 15 feet back, so right at 1.5 to 1 throw distance. The room is dark chocolate brown walls and carpet, medium brown ceiling, and heavy curtains, so I have good light control but not a fully blacked out theater. I wanted to try a more mild ALR vs the 5D, Carl's, and other 1.4+ gain options because I have pretty good light control and didn't want to have too many artifacts in exchange for the ALR feature. 

I do not notice any sparkles and the off axis viewing is better than I had expected. When shooting a uniform color or solid white you can see the corners are darker than the center if you look for it. So far this has not bothered me with normal content, but it is most certainly an artifact that is present in this material. I think a longer throw ratio would help, as would a longer seating distance but neither are options for my room as it is currently configured. 

This is no miracle fabric. Add light and the black levels are raised and the picture does get washed out a bit, just much less so than on my white screen. With minimal lights on, off axis, it does give a very viewable image for most TV, sports and gaming. I don't see myself ever watching movies that way, nor would I be satisfied with the image in a fully lit room or with curtains open. Neither is something I am interested in anyway. If I can have enough light on to see the remotes, my plate of snacks, and not trip over a black dog on a dark carpet while watching a bright and vibrant Super Bowl image I am good, and the Cinegrey 3D is good enough to deliver that. 

The only other complaint I have is there are two visible vertical lines that I think were from the material being rolled up. The most visible is where it was closest to the tube and the second fainter one looks like it may have been one layer later. I am hoping they will stretch out over time but I see a number of others reporting this issue with the 3D and 5D material.


----------



## covsound1

m-fine said:


> I just picked up a roll of this material to test. I have it stretched across a 119"x67" frame with the seats and projector both 15 feet back, so right at 1.5 to 1 throw distance. The room is dark chocolate brown walls and carpet, medium brown ceiling, and heavy curtains, so I have good light control but not a fully blacked out theater. I wanted to try a more mild ALR vs the 5D, Carl's, and other 1.4+ gain options because I have pretty good light control and didn't want to have too many artifacts in exchange for the ALR feature.
> 
> I do not notice any sparkles and the off axis viewing is better than I had expected. When shooting a uniform color or solid white you can see the corners are darker than the center if you look for it. So far this has not bothered me with normal content, but it is most certainly an artifact that is present in this material. I think a longer throw ratio would help, as would a longer seating distance but neither are options for my room as it is currently configured.
> 
> This is no miracle fabric. Add light and the black levels are raised and the picture does get washed out a bit, just much less so than on my white screen. With minimal lights on, off axis, it does give a very viewable image for most TV, sports and gaming. I don't see myself ever watching movies that way, nor would I be satisfied with the image in a fully lit room or with curtains open. Neither is something I am interested in anyway. If I can have enough light on to see the remotes, my plate of snacks, and not trip over a black dog on a dark carpet while watching a bright and vibrant Super Bowl image I am good, and the Cinegrey 3D is good enough to deliver that.
> 
> The only other complaint I have is there are two visible vertical lines that I think were from the material being rolled up. The most visible is where it was closest to the tube and the second fainter one looks like it may have been one layer later. I am hoping they will stretch out over time but I see a number of others reporting this issue with the 3D and 5D material.


i got a roll of 3d about two weeks ago. have not had the time to set up. i am using hp 2.8 screen now wanted something that could pull black a little more and not hurt me light output. i really like the hp but wanted to see what grey would bring. is your contrast better than what you had before with the 3d material?


----------



## SXRDISBEST

m-fine said:


> I just picked up a roll of this material to test. I have it stretched across a 119"x67" frame with the seats and projector both 15 feet back, so right at 1.5 to 1 throw distance. The room is dark chocolate brown walls and carpet, medium brown ceiling, and heavy curtains, so I have good light control but not a fully blacked out theater. I wanted to try a more mild ALR vs the 5D, Carl's, and other 1.4+ gain options because I have pretty good light control and didn't want to have too many artifacts in exchange for the ALR feature.
> 
> I do not notice any sparkles and the off axis viewing is better than I had expected. When shooting a uniform color or solid white you can see the corners are darker than the center if you look for it. So far this has not bothered me with normal content, but it is most certainly an artifact that is present in this material. I think a longer throw ratio would help, as would a longer seating distance but neither are options for my room as it is currently configured.
> 
> This is no miracle fabric. Add light and the black levels are raised and the picture does get washed out a bit, just much less so than on my white screen. With minimal lights on, off axis, it does give a very viewable image for most TV, sports and gaming. I don't see myself ever watching movies that way, nor would I be satisfied with the image in a fully lit room or with curtains open. Neither is something I am interested in anyway. If I can have enough light on to see the remotes, my plate of snacks, and not trip over a black dog on a dark carpet while watching a bright and vibrant Super Bowl image I am good, and the Cinegrey 3D is good enough to deliver that.
> 
> The only other complaint I have is there are two visible vertical lines that I think were from the material being rolled up. The most visible is where it was closest to the tube and the second fainter one looks like it may have been one layer later. I am hoping they will stretch out over time but I see a number of others reporting this issue with the 3D and 5D material.


The streaks etc. on this material that people are complaining about is the one reason I'm considering Carl's instead. It seems like it's not packaged very well at all, especially the designer cut material. Do you know if the quality control is better with Carl's compared to Elite?


----------



## m-fine

To answer the questions in the previous two posts. 

The contrast is slightly improved in complete darkness, but I already had fairly good light control. As I increase the level of light in the room, the picture degrades much slower compared to the white screen so the improvement in contrast becomes fairly substantial. See the post below with a bad photo. 

I have no first hand experience with any Carl's product. So I cannot comment on their QC or packaging. I chose to try the Elite 3D first because it seems to be a less aggressive ALR than the Carl's or 5D but I certainly have not ruled out testing some Carl's ALR material as it is not too expensive and shouldn't take too long to bungee it to an existing frame.


----------



## m-fine

Here is a simple iPhone photo of the Cinegrey 3D taped to a portion of my white screen. For this shot, I opened the curtains on a window off to the right of the screen on a cloudy day. The image is the white on black grid from the projector's pixel alignment menu. You can see on the white screen things are much worse on the right than the left. 

Overall, on my personal taste scale, the white screen in this light scenario rates "unwatchable" while the Cinegray rates between "tolerable" and "acceptable" for most gaming or sports. I can't imagine any situation where I wouldn't close the curtain before watching a movie on either screen.


----------



## m-fine

So, having lived with this material for a bit, I can offer some updates. 

Stretching the material more horizontally has all but eliminated the vertical lines. On the down side, watching more and different material, I do see some sparkles. With bright solid colors like in animation it can be quite noticeable, whereas in normal film images it is not very noticeable. 

There are definitely some downsides and trade offs with this material that will bother some people more than others.


----------



## SXRDISBEST

m-fine said:


> So, having lived with this material for a bit, I can offer some updates.
> 
> Stretching the material more horizontally has all but eliminated the vertical lines. On the down side, watching more and different material, I do see some sparkles. With bright solid colors like in animation it can be quite noticeable, whereas in normal film images it is not very noticeable.
> 
> There are definitely some downsides and trade offs with this material that will bother some people more than others.


I received my sample last weekend and disappointingly, I noticed the sparkles too. I was set on either the 3D or Carl's ALR, but both show sparkles big time and will not work for me. I was hoping for a big improvement from my 10 year old Firehawk, but it was marginal at best. For those interested, Carl's ALR is quite a bit brighter than the 3D. Probably more comparable with the Cinegrey 5D but I hven't compared directly. I might be going with straight white fabric, as it is smooth as can be. I don't think the trade-offs of the ALR stuff are worth it for me unfortunately.


----------



## Ftoast

SXRDISBEST said:


> I received my sample last weekend and disappointingly, I noticed the sparkles too. I was set on either the 3D or Carl's ALR, but both show sparkles big time and will not work for me. I was hoping for a big improvement from my 10 year old Firehawk, but it was marginal at best. For those interested, Carl's ALR is quite a bit brighter than the 3D. Probably more comparable with the Cinegrey 5D but I hven't compared directly. I might be going with straight white fabric, as it is smooth as can be. I don't think the trade-offs of the ALR stuff are worth it for me unfortunately.


Because this is the first time I can remember hearing someone describe Carl's ALR as noticeably brighter than Elite's CineGrey 3D, you're projecting onto the side without a label, right? The labelled side should be the back..and that back will be more glossy and higher-gain.

It could also just be the natural variance between productions, but I figured it couldn't hurt to ask and make sure.


----------



## SXRDISBEST

Ftoast said:


> Because this is the first time I can remember hearing someone describe Carl's ALR as noticeably brighter than Elite's CineGrey 3D, you're projecting onto the side without a label, right? The labelled side should be the back..and that back will be more glossy and higher-gain.
> 
> It could also just be the natural variance between productions, but I figured it couldn't hurt to ask and make sure.



Yes, I was definitely using the correct side. Without a doubt, Carl's ALR was in the ballpark of .3 gain higher than Cinegrey 3D on my samples! First of all, just laying the samples next to each other on my table, I could see that the 3D was darker. Then when an image was on the screen, Carl's as quite a bit brighter. My wife even noticed it! haha The 3D was almost identical in brightness (on axis) to the Carl's Flexiwhite 1.1 gain sample. 

As tough as it is to make a judgement on hotspotting on such a small sample, it looked like Carl's hotspotted worse than the 3D. Just generally had a more reflective look to it. I now have more appreciation for what Stewart is doing with their materials, because they were essentially where these new materials are 12 years ago. And I also had a Firehawk G3 sample on hand to compare and of course, it performed the best. I think it's also like $1,200 for just the material on my 123" 16:9. 

I may just go with Carl's Flexiwhite and continue to tame down reflections in my room. I really liked the look of the sample. Gotta love first world problems, right?


----------



## m-fine

The Carl's is supposed to be about 1.5 max gain vs 1.1-1.2 for the 3D. Based on the specs, I would have expected it to be brighter but with more severe hotspotting which is exactly why I chose to try the 3D first over the Carl's and 5D. So, SXRD is reporting what I would have expected.


----------



## SXRDISBEST

m-fine said:


> The Carl's is supposed to be about 1.5 max gain vs 1.1-1.2 for the 3D. Based on the specs, I would have expected it to be brighter but with more severe hotspotting which is exactly why I chose to try the 3D first over the Carl's and 5D. So, SXRD is reporting what I would have expected.


Yeah, I think the 3d is overall the better choice. I think you minimize the bad aspects of ALR, while maintaining some good light rejection. I would take a hit in the overall brightness for less hotspotting and just crank the brightness on my projector at the times when needed.


----------



## jaychatbonneau

SXRDISBEST said:


> Yeah, I think the 3d is overall the better choice. I think you minimize the bad aspects of ALR, while maintaining some good light rejection. I would take a hit in the overall brightness for less hotspotting and just crank the brightness on my projector at the times when needed.


How well does Cinegrey 3D perform when used with a passive 3D set-up? Does anyone know the extinction ratio? Thanks.


----------



## Ftoast

m-fine said:


> The Carl's is supposed to be about 1.5 max gain vs 1.1-1.2 for the 3D. Based on the specs, I would have expected it to be brighter but with more severe hotspotting which is exactly why I chose to try the 3D first over the Carl's and 5D. So, SXRD is reporting what I would have expected.


That all makes sense. It's just that my sample of Carl's is only just barely brighter than FlexiWhite at its brightest point (when viewed in a dark environment) and the previous example/s I've seen comparing Carl's next to the CineGrey 3D and 5D showed Carl's to be noticeably dimmer than 5D and basically indistinguishable from 3D (the user commented that Carl's was a touch dimmer than the 3D). 
I wonder if Carl's had fairly drastic change from one roll to the next.. that's a bit worrying.


----------



## iastater09

About to order Elite Aeon CineGray3D 150" screen for Epson 5040 projector. Projector is not mounted yet and I have a little wiggle room. Should I go closer to 15' or closer to 17'? Would 17' be better to avoid hotspotting? I know 15' would give me a brighter image, but probably don't need it anyway since the 5040 is bright enough.


----------



## daWill

iastater09 said:


> About to order Elite Aeon CineGray3D 150" screen for Epson 5040 projector. Projector is not mounted yet and I have a little wiggle room. Should I go closer to 15' or closer to 17'? Would 17' be better to avoid hotspotting? I know 15' would give me a brighter image, but probably don't need it anyway since the 5040 is bright enough.


Elite specifically mentions you need 1.5x your screen width as minimum throw. I have a 15' throw and I literally just setup a 135" aeon cinegray 3d last night. I'm very pleased with the image. However, I'm just over the min spec. For 150" screen I would follow their guidelines and stick with 16.5' throw or more.

That all being said, the image on this is pretty freaking good. I never bought it specifically for external ambient light, but I did buy it to increase my ansi contrast from light bouncing around my room. I have dark walls, but my room is multifunction and it has light carpet, white ceiling, and the "blackout" curtains glow during the day. It impossible to get the room completely dark except at night. I had a silver ticket 120" white screen for the past 2 years and I wasn't enjoying the picture at all. However my wife refused to allow me to treat the room further. I finally got the buy in for a new screen recently (I think she got sick of listening to me). 

I've only had a few hours to demo it, but it's worth every penny. Honestly I think it might allow me to nurse my aging sony hw50es a little longer. I was a little concerned my projector would light it up enough (it's got over 1000hrs on current lamp), but it does quiet well. Surprisingly enough I can even disable the DI and it doesn't wash out the image like it did with the matte white screen. Sure I might lose some black level without the DI but the increased brightness and image pop makes it worth it for tv watching. For movies I just flip it back on and get a little bit better contrast at the cost of some brightness. Viewing angles are actually way better than I was expecting. There is a slight shift in the image brightness when you sit at an angle, further corner will be slightly darker, but its only noticeable on solid color screens. Watching a movie I was unable to perceive it. I only noticed it when I threw a solid white image up. Standing up, walking around my room I didn't notice much image shift. I would say it's comparable to my VA FALD 4k tv I have in my living room (JVC DM85UXR), but not as good as my LG IPS tv I have in my bedroom which has no saturation loss.

Aethsteticly I was also very surprised about how good the screen looks. It took me a little extra time to work out any waves, but I was totally going into this expecting to use the velvet border tape. After throwing it on the wall and having it almost disappear (I have dark grey walls), I decided to wait. After firing up the image and aligning everything as best as I could in ~15min, I was more than happy. Sure I can't get a perfect rectangle, but the slight border gap is barely noticeable, I forgot about it as soon as I started watching. Overspill though is very noticeable since the light is no longer squashed by velvet and it's hitting a textured wall. Overall I just think the tape would be way more of a distraction than leaving it clean and nude on the wall . 

I'm sure there are better screens out there for living room environments, but if you have decent light control and are just fighting some indirect light bleeding into your room I can't imagine anything being that much better. If you want to pay thousands of dollars for other brands low gain ALR screen, I won't argue with you, but this cinegrey 3d is probably a better bang for your buck. I personally can't justify 1000's of dollars for a piece of fabric on the wall (probably why I have no interest in art). 

Next up I need to upgrade my projector and really light this thing up with more lumens and better black levels than my hw50es is capable of.


----------



## murof

daWill said:


> Elite specifically mentions you need 1.5x your screen width as minimum throw. I have a 15' throw and I literally just setup a 135" aeon cinegray 3d last night. I'm very pleased with the image. However, I'm just over the min spec. For 150" screen I would follow their guidelines and stick with 16.5' throw or more.
> 
> That all being said, the image on this is pretty freaking good. I never bought it specifically for external ambient light, but I did buy it to increase my ansi contrast from light bouncing around my room. I have dark walls, but my room is multifunction and it has light carpet, white ceiling, and the "blackout" curtains glow during the day. It impossible to get the room completely dark except at night. I had a silver ticket 120" white screen for the past 2 years and I wasn't enjoying the picture at all. However my wife refused to allow me to treat the room further. I finally got the buy in for a new screen recently (I think she got sick of listening to me).
> 
> I've only had a few hours to demo it, but it's worth every penny. Honestly I think it might allow me to nurse my aging sony hw50es a little longer. I was a little concerned my projector would light it up enough (it's got over 1000hrs on current lamp), but it does quiet well. Surprisingly enough I can even disable the DI and it doesn't wash out the image like it did with the matte white screen. Sure I might lose some black level without the DI but the increased brightness and image pop makes it worth it for tv watching. For movies I just flip it back on and get a little bit better contrast at the cost of some brightness. Viewing angles are actually way better than I was expecting. There is a slight shift in the image brightness when you sit at an angle, further corner will be slightly darker, but its only noticeable on solid color screens. Watching a movie I was unable to perceive it. I only noticed it when I threw a solid white image up. Standing up, walking around my room I didn't notice much image shift. I would say it's comparable to my VA FALD 4k tv I have in my living room (JVC DM85UXR), but not as good as my LG IPS tv I have in my bedroom which has no saturation loss.
> 
> Aethsteticly I was also very surprised about how good the screen looks. It took me a little extra time to work out any waves, but I was totally going into this expecting to use the velvet border tape. After throwing it on the wall and having it almost disappear (I have dark grey walls), I decided to wait. After firing up the image and aligning everything as best as I could in ~15min, I was more than happy. Sure I can't get a perfect rectangle, but the slight border gap is barely noticeable, I forgot about it as soon as I started watching. Overspill though is very noticeable since the light is no longer squashed by velvet and it's hitting a textured wall. Overall I just think the tape would be way more of a distraction than leaving it clean and nude on the wall .
> 
> I'm sure there are better screens out there for living room environments, but if you have decent light control and are just fighting some indirect light bleeding into your room I can't imagine anything being that much better. If you want to pay thousands of dollars for other brands low gain ALR screen, I won't argue with you, but this cinegrey 3d is probably a better bang for your buck. I personally can't justify 1000's of dollars for a piece of fabric on the wall (probably why I have no interest in art).
> 
> Next up I need to upgrade my projector and really light this thing up with more lumens and better black levels than my hw50es is capable of.


Thanks, this really helped me decide to get this screen. I have been agonizing over which screen and how much to spend. I think your conditions are very similar to mine.


----------



## RigorousXChris

dlynch34 said:


> great job!! I did a DIY with the cinegrey 3d as well and LOVE it!!


Do LEDs around the screen helped with perceived contrast?


----------



## Dominic Chan

daWill said:


> That all being said, the image on this is pretty freaking good. I never bought it specifically for external ambient light, but I did buy it to increase my ansi contrast from light bouncing around my room.


I'm in a similar situation. I have a Silvler Ticket matte white screen, and can notice the bounced light from my walls even though they are already dark ccoloured. I will likely just change the screen material, currently trying to decide between the Cinegrey 3D and Cinegrey 5D. 

Did you compare the two before settling on the 3D?


----------



## iastater09

Follow up to my earlier post....

Need some advice here:
Have a 5040ub with a elite aeon cinegray3d 150" screen. I need advice on where to mount the projector. The screen is a 1.2 gain ALR screen so advises 1.5 times screen width which would be close to 16' 5". I have a stud at 16'5" but then the lens would be closer than that. The outlet and HDMI passthrough are next to this stud. I could also go one stud back and mount at 17' 7" (yes 14" difference) but electrical and HDMI will be at 16' 5".

Would I get hotspots if I mount at 16'5" (then the lens would be closer than the recommended 1.5 screen width)?

Or should mount on the 17'7" stud to make sure I follow the screen recommendation? I could then run the HDMI and power to where they are located near 16'5".

Thanks in advance. Will be mounting Friday. Appreciate the input.


----------



## daWill

Dominic Chan said:


> I'm in a similar situation. I have a Silvler Ticket matte white screen, and can notice the bounced light from my walls even though they are already dark ccoloured. I will likely just change the screen material, currently trying to decide between the Cinegrey 3D and Cinegrey 5D.
> 
> Did you compare the two before settling on the 3D?


I have samples for both, but honestly, I couldn't tell much from the little samples they sent. I made my decision mostly from reviews on this forum. I bought from Amazon, so I figured if it didn't work I would just return it. The reasons I went with 3d over 5d is the extra gain wasn't needed and I was concerned about hot spotting, sparkles and viewing angles. Based on everything I've read, the 3d had better behavior in all those areas.


----------



## toomanytvstosee

*Want to build one for me*



dlynch34 said:


> great job!! I did a DIY with the cinegrey 3d as well and LOVE it!!


Dlynch, I am in Orlando. Want to build one for me and I will pay you?


----------



## dlynch34

toomanytvstosee said:


> Dlynch, I am in Orlando. Want to build one for me and I will pay you?


hey wherabouts in Orlando are you? 

What size and aspect are you looking at?


----------



## carlkpro

Anyone using edge free Elite Aeon screen can tell me how this works for projecting image that does not fill the entire screen? Will outside bands look weird or you don't notice it much? I'm thinking of installing an oversized screen that I could use for 16:9 TV viewing at a reduced size and for occasional 2.35:1 movie viewing. I can live with the later but want to be sure that extra outside bands when watching TV most times won't be bothering me. Thanks,


----------



## daWill

carlkpro said:


> Anyone using edge free Elite Aeon screen can tell me how this works for projecting image that does not fill the entire screen? Will outside bands look weird or you don't notice it much? I'm thinking of installing an oversized screen that I could use for 16:9 TV viewing at a reduced size and for occasional 2.35:1 movie viewing. I can live with the later but want to be sure that extra outside bands when watching TV most times won't be bothering me. Thanks,


I don't have the patience to get a perfect fill. Nor do I necessarily think quality control on these screens is high enough to get a perfect 16:9 ratio. Even just a tiny bit off gets magnified by the projectors throw.

Now all that being said I can't tell it's not filling up the whole screen unless I look for it. Playing games or watching movies it's a non issue. I prefer the clean look much better w/o the black tape and the screen is dark enough grey to not be distracting with any underfill. Underfill on my previous matte white screen was very annoying to me and I tried to get the overspill just minimal on the velvet to avoid it.


----------



## carlkpro

daWill said:


> I don't have the patience to get a perfect fill. Nor do I necessarily think quality control on these screens is high enough to get a perfect 16:9 ratio. Even just a tiny bit off gets magnified by the projectors throw.
> 
> Now all that being said I can't tell it's not filling up the whole screen unless I look for it. Playing games or watching movies it's a non issue. I prefer the clean look much better w/o the black tape and the screen is dark enough grey to not be distracting with any underfill. Underfill on my previous matte white screen was very annoying to me and I tried to get the overspill just minimal on the velvet to avoid it.


Great to hear that. That's what I hoped for. The plan is to get a 135" screen as an upgrade from my current 105" and to use around 120" area for 16:9 TV viewing but full width for 2.35:1 movie viewing. Looks there's no reason this will not work for me. I could eventually do full 135" 16:9 but at this moment it looks it will be too large from my front seating area and also the concern of too much brightness hit.


----------



## paulfromtulsa

Delete please


----------



## Dominic Chan

m-fine said:


> Here is a simple iPhone photo of the Cinegrey 3D taped to a portion of my white screen. For this shot, I opened the curtains on a window off to the right of the screen on a cloudy day. The image is the white on black grid from the projector's pixel alignment menu. You can see on the white screen things are much worse on the right than the left.


Towards the left side of the photo, the white lines are significantly dimmer on the Cinegrey 3D than on the white screen. Presumably that's because the light is coming at a steep angle.
Do you have any pictures comparing the two with a projected image instead of window light? Thanks.


----------



## Pavel Antoš

paulfromtulsa said:


> Delete please


I have same problem with Carl's ALR. You can see my video in Carl's ALR topic.


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## carlkpro

I finally got a cinegrey 3d sample to try. It's too small to make a verdict but I do have a mixed feeling about it. This is to replace my 10 year old white 106" Da-Lite screen with I believe 1.2 gain. My first impression is the elite produce darker images. Black is more black. Green and red became darker green and red. I guess these are good but then white is much less white. I'm not sure if this is the way it supposed to be or I'm just losing brightness. The contrast does appear to be better but the sample is just too small go make a good judgement on that. I'm still very hesitate of purchasing it. Will someone who knows better help me about if the white on a grey screen will just not be the same as it on a white screen?


----------



## LumensLover

Samples suck. With that being said, whites will always be more dim on a alr or grey screen. You cant have it all. The only way for true, unaltered whites is with a white screen.


----------



## Dominic Chan

LumensLover said:


> Samples suck. With that being said, whites will always be more dim on a alr or grey screen.


Many ALR screens have "positive gains", i.e., if positioned correctly, the white will be _brighter_ than on a matte white screen when viewed from the optimal position.

Here's one example that I measured:








The top half is the Silver Ticket ALR screen (rated 1.5 gain), the bottom half is their matte screen (rated 1.1 gain).


----------



## daWill

carlkpro said:


> I finally got a cinegrey 3d sample to try. It's too small to make a verdict but I do have a mixed feeling about it. This is to replace my 10 year old white 106" Da-Lite screen with I believe 1.2 gain. My first impression is the elite produce darker images. Black is more black. Green and red became darker green and red. I guess these are good but then white is much less white. I'm not sure if this is the way it supposed to be or I'm just losing brightness. The contrast does appear to be better but the sample is just too small go make a good judgement on that. I'm still very hesitate of purchasing it. Will someone who knows better help me about if the white on a grey screen will just not be the same as it on a white screen?


I was VERY underwhelmed by the samples. I think they set in my drawer for a good 6months before I decided to just take "a leap of faith" base on a mix of posts on here, you tube videos, etc. That being said a month later I think the cinegrey 3d screen is the best upgrade I've done to my theater, possibly ever.. It drove me to go ahead and upgrade my sound system too (dolby atmos is pretty awesome too). Now I find myself going upstairs to watch tv, movies, etc. For awhile after I got my 4k FALD tv downstairs, I only went upstairs to play my ps4 or gaming pc. Now I only use tv downstairs if my kids or wife already claimed the projector. 

It's not a miracle screen though. I use my overhead light between the seats and the screen somewhat sparingly because it does wash out the image slightly (matte white was unwatchable with this on). However my cans off to the side have no impact to image quality. Solo I usually have most lights off as it's just a personal preference, but watching tv w/ kids or other company I turn on the lights and have only minor contrast loss. The image the screen shows in the dark is leaps and bounds better than my matte white. My white ceiling and beige carpet was killing my contrast previously. Now all that incident reflections are squashed by the ALR screen.


----------



## carlkpro

daWill said:


> I was VERY underwhelmed by the samples. I think they set in my drawer for a good 6months before I decided to just take "a leap of faith" base on a mix of posts on here, you tube videos, etc. That being said a month later I think the cinegrey 3d screen is the best upgrade I've done to my theater, possibly ever.. It drove me to go ahead and upgrade my sound system too (dolby atmos is pretty awesome too). Now I find myself going upstairs to watch tv, movies, etc. For awhile after I got my 4k FALD tv downstairs, I only went upstairs to play my ps4 or gaming pc. Now I only use tv downstairs if my kids or wife already claimed the projector.
> 
> It's not a miracle screen though. I use my overhead light between the seats and the screen somewhat sparingly because it does wash out the image slightly (matte white was unwatchable with this on). However my cans off to the side have no impact to image quality. Solo I usually have most lights off as it's just a personal preference, but watching tv w/ kids or other company I turn on the lights and have only minor contrast loss. The image the screen shows in the dark is leaps and bounds better than my matte white. My white ceiling and beige carpet was killing my contrast previously. Now all that incident reflections are squashed by the ALR screen.


Thanks that's reassuring to know. After few days comparing that little sample I came to the same conclusion that the gain in contrast even after dark still outweighs the little loss of white level. Order of an Elite Aeon 135" cinegrey3D was just placed. The next project will be a new receiver and a few extra speakers for atoms.


----------



## carlkpro

carlkpro said:


> Thanks that's reassuring to know. After few days comparing that little sample I came to the same conclusion that the gain in contrast even after dark still outweighs the little loss of white level. Order of an Elite Aeon 135" cinegrey3D was just placed. The next project will be a new receiver and a few extra speakers for atoms.


After a week with the new 135" 16:9 cinegray 3D screen here are some of my thoughts. The projector is Epson 5040ub with throw distance of 15', the minimum recommended by Elite. Viewing distance is ~13'. The room does have lighter colored ceiling and walls.

1. Contrast and black level definitely improved over previous Da-Lite white screen. It made this great projector even better. I really love what I see here. 
2. Viewing under some ambient lights is still a huge compromise. Not even sure if there are any improvements over the previous screen. The very bright Epson was able to do a fairly good job with the white screen already. 
3. At this screen size the need of 4K UHD becomes even more apparent. I'm not set up for 4K yet. It will be the next thing for me to do.
4. I finally understood what hot spot means. It is very noticeable in certain scenes. It does bother me a bit but I can live with it for now. I fully understand that nothing comes for free. 

Final thought is it's definitely worth it just for the contrast and black level improvements although one needs to bear in mind that compromises still exist.


----------



## daWill

carlkpro said:


> After a week with the new 135" 16:9 cinegray 3D screen here are some of my thoughts. The projector is Epson 5040ub with throw distance of 15', the minimum recommended by Elite. Viewing distance is ~13'. The room does have lighter colored ceiling and walls.
> 
> 1. Contrast and black level definitely improved over previous Da-Lite white screen. It made this great projector even better. I really love what I see here.
> 2. Viewing under some ambient lights is still a huge compromise. Not even sure if there are any improvements over the previous screen. The very bright Epson was able to do a fairly good job with the white screen already.
> 3. At this screen size the need of 4K UHD becomes even more obvious. I'm not set up to do 4K yet. It will be the next thing to do.
> 4. I finally understood what hot spot means. It is very noticeable in certain scenes. It does bother me a bit but I can live with it for now. I fully understand that nothing comes for free.
> 
> Final thought is it's definitely worth it just for the contrast and black level improvements although one needs to bear in mind that compromises still exist.


Hmm. You have the same screen as me and the same approximate viewing and throw distances. What is your approximate distance of your lens height to your screen height? I want to say my lens is ~1/4-1/3 down on the screen. Since these screens are angular reflective, I would look into moving either the screen or projector up/down to see if you can eliminate the hot spotting. My screen is every so slightly brighter in the center compared to the edges, but I wouldn't call it hot spotting necessarily. It's only noticeable if I sit in a seat off to the side, which I do regularly. I notice it for a hot second and it melds away because it's so gradual, and I think I'm the only person who sees it. 

Another possibility on the hot spotting, is you need to drop the brightness of your projector. The 5040 is pretty bright, you could drop it to eco mode and see if it makes any difference. You could also see if recalibrating the black levels via test patterns makes any differences. I suspect those are all different now with the 1.2 gain vs what you had before.

On the ambient light issues, it took me a bit to figure out the best setup. I don't use my overhead fan lights very often now, but I couldn't use them at all with my white screen. My can lights over to the side I can use w/o any washout, which is very nice. Everybody's setup is different though and it's all based on the incident angle of the lights on the screen vs your viewing angle. The good news with these ALR screens is you have options to fix washout, white ones you were left with bad contrast or having to treat the entire room. Much less hassle to adjust lighting angles than painting everything black and start tacking up velvet .


----------



## carlkpro

daWill said:


> Hmm. You have the same screen as me and the same approximate viewing and throw distances. What is your approximate distance of your lens height to your screen height? I want to say my lens is ~1/4-1/3 down on the screen. Since these screens are angular reflective, I would look into moving either the screen or projector up/down to see if you can eliminate the hot spotting. My screen is every so slightly brighter in the center compared to the edges, but I wouldn't call it hot spotting necessarily. It's only noticeable if I sit in a seat off to the side, which I do regularly. I notice it for a hot second and it melds away because it's so gradual, and I think I'm the only person who sees it.
> 
> Another possibility on the hot spotting, is you need to drop the brightness of your projector. The 5040 is pretty bright, you could drop it to eco mode and see if it makes any difference. You could also see if recalibrating the black levels via test patterns makes any differences. I suspect those are all different now with the 1.2 gain vs what you had before.
> 
> On the ambient light issues, it took me a bit to figure out the best setup. I don't use my overhead fan lights very often now, but I couldn't use them at all with my white screen. My can lights over to the side I can use w/o any washout, which is very nice. Everybody's setup is different though and it's all based on the incident angle of the lights on the screen vs your viewing angle. The good news with these ALR screens is you have options to fix washout, white ones you were left with bad contrast or having to treat the entire room. Much less hassle to adjust lighting angles than painting everything black and start tacking up velvet .


The projector is ceiling mounted with lens about a foot lower than top edge of the screen. What I meant hot spot is probably the same as you have seen. Sitting somewhat left to the center I can see left side of image brighter than the right side. This is more pronounced with brighter or lighter colored images and not so much in others. Like you said I can notice that since I know it's there. Others might not notice that. Not that big a deal. Overall I still think it's worth it for that very contrasty image I really like.


----------



## Dominic Chan

daWill said:


> Since these screens are angular reflective, I would look into moving either the screen or projector up/down to see if you can eliminate the hot spotting. My screen is every so slightly brighter in the center compared to the edges, but I wouldn't call it hot spotting necessarily. It's only noticeable if I sit in a seat off to the side, which I do regularly.


I guess the hotspot is actually supposed to be the "sweet spot" for angular reflective ALR screen, where you get the highest contrast ratio.

For the "typical" room height (~96") and screen height (>60"), re-positioning the screen will likely only shift the hot spot to a different part of the screen, not moving it off the screen. 

I'm actually considering buying the Cinegrey 3D screen material to replace my matte white screen. I can live with the mild hot spot, but are there any "sparkles" or surface texture that's visible from 10' away?


----------



## LumensLover

Dominic Chan said:


> I guess the hotspot is actually supposed to be the "sweet spot" for angular reflective ALR screen, where you get the highest contrast ratio.
> 
> For the "typical" room height (~96") and screen height (>60"), re-positioning the screen will likely only shift the hot spot to a different part of the screen, not moving it off the screen.
> 
> I'm actually considering buying the Cinegrey 3D screen material to replace my matte white screen. I can live with the mild hot spot, but are there any "sparkles" or surface texture that's visible from 10' away?


You have been active in this thread for over a year. You never purchased a cinegrey screen? I guess the Silver Ticket alr screen spoiled you against trying other alr screens?


----------



## daWill

Dominic Chan said:


> I guess the hotspot is actually supposed to be the "sweet spot" for angular reflective ALR screen, where you get the highest contrast ratio.
> 
> For the "typical" room height (~96") and screen height (>60"), re-positioning the screen will likely only shift the hot spot to a different part of the screen, not moving it off the screen.
> 
> I'm actually considering buying the Cinegrey 3D screen material to replace my matte white screen. I can live with the mild hot spot, but are there any "sparkles" or surface texture that's visible from 10' away?


I don't see any visual anomalies right now. No sparkles or texture. I've been on the projector a good amount this weekend playing video games and watching some tv. I can't find the image shift I posted about a few posts before either. I was looking for it since I didn't think it was a big deal previously, but noticeable if you looked for it. Now I don't know if I've retrained my brain or what, but I can't find it at all. That being said I've also rearranged my furniture slightly while I was installing full blackout shades a couple weeks back. Additionally I installed a new projector lamp and when I did that I spent more time squaring up the image and getting a better focus. So either brain retraining or just minor adjustments has eliminated any visual anomalies I had. 

I was dead set on getting another projector to improve my contrast and go 4k, but now I think I'm going to wait another 6-12months or the 4k kinks to be worked out more. I'm very pleased with the contrast enhancement and minimal, if any artifacts this screen has.


----------



## carlkpro

Dominic Chan said:


> I guess the hotspot is actually supposed to be the "sweet spot" for angular reflective ALR screen, where you get the highest contrast ratio.
> 
> For the "typical" room height (~96") and screen height (>60"), re-positioning the screen will likely only shift the hot spot to a different part of the screen, not moving it off the screen.
> 
> I'm actually considering buying the Cinegrey 3D screen material to replace my matte white screen. I can live with the mild hot spot, but are there any "sparkles" or surface texture that's visible from 10' away?


I did not notice any sparkles or surface texture. You're right hotspot maybe a little too strong word for that. It could be looked at as sweet spot/area and the rest are darker areas. It's pretty gradual and only noticeable in bright and light colored images. It's not that big a deal to me. All in all I have no regret of getting this screen. The gain in contrast is way worth it.


----------



## PeterJ101

Any thoughts on how this screen can handle HDR content? Does the lower brightness make this a bad choice for current and future HDR compatible projectors?


----------



## daWill

PeterJ101 said:


> Any thoughts on how this screen can handle HDR content? Does the lower brightness make this a bad choice for current and future HDR compatible projectors?


The whole point of this screen is maintaining contrast in less than ideal room conditions. You can create a bat cave and use a matte white screen. In a non blacked out room, the incident light is going to wash out the HDR much more than any slight shift of perceived brightness from this screen.


----------



## gibsonm21

Question for the folks running LEDs on their frames, did you use the supplied wall brackets to mount the screen? If so, is your LED glow symmetrical around the screen? I'm running into a problem where the upper portion of my screen fits tighter to the wall than the lower, causing an uneven LED glow. 


Should I put a shim between the mounting bracket and the wall or am I hanging this screen wrong? BTW I ran the LED strips inside the track where the screen mounts.


----------



## razevents

Love the ALR capabilities of my Aeon 3D but the texture degrades the sharpness of my RS400. 92" screen at 12'. I run a 2.35 motorized White in front of it with an Anamorphic lens and the white is much better in holding the great sharpness of the 1080 and 4K content. I have white ceiling and this Aeon does a great job of reducing light from above though day and night. We use it for TV content etc during ambient daytime light conditions. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## toomanytvstosee

any thoughts on the AEON and the Silver ticket grey thin frame. They are about $100 difference but wasnt sure if the AEON was the better choice


----------



## roccol

I just installed the Cinegray 3d designer cut 135 inches diagonal yesterday on my diy frame. I'm fairly please with the screen, but there does appear to be some issues with it. 

1. The material does have some vertical lines that do impair the picture. While I don't find these vertical lines objectionable in general, they create shading problems on the screen. For example, there is a noticeable vertical line toward the left third of the screen. If I sit on the right side of my couch, the image to the left of the vertical line appears slightly dimmer. If I then sit on the left of my couch, then the image appears dimmer to the right of the vertical line. If I sit in the center, the image is dimmer on the left side of the vertical line. 

It's like these vertical lines create a slight shadow. I also notice this in the bottom middle of my screen where I think I may have pulled the material too tight. You can see a slight crease the frame makes in the material. Anything below this mark is considerably dimmer. It all fades out where the crease disappears. 

Does anyone have any insight to any of this?

1. Did I make my screen too tight vertically that the center bottom portion of the frame is noticeable. Should I loosen the material a bit in the bottom middle?

2. The vertical creases that span the material. There's no way I could have tightened this material any further without ripping it. Will they go away in time or is this something I have to live with? I thought I read somewhere this seems all too common.

Thanks.


----------



## Fox Aches

toomanytvstosee said:


> any thoughts on the AEON and the Silver ticket grey thin frame. They are about $100 difference but wasnt sure if the AEON was the better choice


I'm in the same boat. 
Interested in both of these 'edgeless' screens, but I'm really leaning toward the Aeon because of the Cinegray 3D option.

I have purchased an Optoma UHD65 and am chomping at the bit to fire this baby up!


----------



## daWill

roccol said:


> I just installed the Cinegray 3d designer cut 135 inches diagonal yesterday on my diy frame. I'm fairly please with the screen, but there does appear to be some issues with it.
> 
> 1. The material does have some vertical lines that do impair the picture. While I don't find these vertical lines objectionable in general, they create shading problems on the screen. For example, there is a noticeable vertical line toward the left third of the screen. If I sit on the right side of my couch, the image to the left of the vertical line appears slightly dimmer. If I then sit on the left of my couch, then the image appears dimmer to the right of the vertical line. If I sit in the center, the image is dimmer on the left side of the vertical line.
> 
> It's like these vertical lines create a slight shadow. I also notice this in the bottom middle of my screen where I think I may have pulled the material too tight. You can see a slight crease the frame makes in the material. Anything below this mark is considerably dimmer. It all fades out where the crease disappears.
> 
> Does anyone have any insight to any of this?
> 
> 1. Did I make my screen too tight vertically that the center bottom portion of the frame is noticeable. Should I loosen the material a bit in the bottom middle?
> 
> 2. The vertical creases that span the material. There's no way I could have tightened this material any further without ripping it. Will they go away in time or is this something I have to live with? I thought I read somewhere this seems all too common.
> 
> Thanks.


Can't help you other than to say my Aeon version of the screen works fine. There is a sweet spot in the image. Or at least there used to be, I can't see it anymore. Either I've gotten used to it or when I adjusted a few things is reduced to being indistinguishable. Either way that should show more as a slow roll off away from where the center of your lens is. Kind of like when you shine a flashlight on something, the center is brighter and then the light dims as you go out. However it's nowhere near that extreme. Additionally I have nothing like the linear fall off like you are seeing. Possibly the material/frame isn't as flat as you think it is?


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## iastater09

Here are a few pictures watching Nebraska football in 4k from a few days ago.... On Aeon Cinegrey 3D screen.


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## Saadooness

Fox Aches said:


> toomanytvstosee said:
> 
> 
> 
> any thoughts on the AEON and the Silver ticket grey thin frame. They are about $100 difference but wasnt sure if the AEON was the better choice
> 
> 
> 
> I'm in the same boat.
> Interested in both of these 'edgeless' screens, but I'm really leaning toward the Aeon because of the Cinegray 3D option.
> 
> I have purchased an Optoma UHD65 and am chomping at the bit to fire this baby up!
Click to expand...

I have a uhd60 and received my aeon cinegrey 3d just 2 days ago. I was testing it out and noticed that it really brought the projector to life, especially with the blacks and color accuracy. Here are a few pics with lights on / off and HDR. No my screen will not be permanently located on that wall


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## teCh0010

Getting ready to pull the trigger on an Epson 3100 and the Aeon Cinegrey 3d.

How much clearance is there between the screen and the wall? I have an intercom panel that sticks out about a half an inch, it will be behind the screen about 8 inches from the edge. I'd much rather just put the screen over it vs. removing it and mudding the hole.


----------



## daWill

In case anybody wanted a "professional review" Projector reviews did a review of the cinegray 3d today (http://www.projectorreviews.com/elite/elite-screens-cinegrey-3d-review/). I think the review is a little lacking but a review none the less. I mean at least compare it to a non alr screen to compare ambient wash out. 

Anyhow, at least they came away with mostly positive feedback. I'm still waiting on my new projector to see what 4k looks like. Got my jvc rs640 showing up this week and xbox one x next week. Based on the projectorreviews review, it doesn't appear they are seeing any issues w/ a native 4k projector. I wasn't expecting them to, but you never know.


----------



## daWill

teCh0010 said:


> Getting ready to pull the trigger on an Epson 3100 and the Aeon Cinegrey 3d.
> 
> How much clearance is there between the screen and the wall? I have an intercom panel that sticks out about a half an inch, it will be behind the screen about 8 inches from the edge. I'd much rather just put the screen over it vs. removing it and mudding the hole.


The wall to screen depth is about 1inch and the frame is about 3in thick side to side. So you should be fine. However if you have problems, just disconnect the intercom and save it. Nobody is going to see the hole behind the screen.


----------



## GENINC

I am currently thinking of getting a new 120" Aeon screen in either Cinewhite or Cinegrey. Still rocking the rusty W1070 and will do so until a viable and affordable 4k replacement arrives.
So if I understand this correctly, the grey gives you a little better contrast but sacrifices brightness. Is it really necessary though in a dark room? Does the image look better in a dark room at night or am I better off getting the Cinewhite?


----------



## GENINC

Eh I guess this thread is dead. I'm just gonna get the Cinewhite one.


----------



## riddle

Not for all.... 

i am think about new screen *Cinegrey 3D /CineWhite*.. or i will use paint and make some DIY


----------



## daWill

GENINC said:


> I am currently thinking of getting a new 120" Aeon screen in either Cinewhite or Cinegrey. Still rocking the rusty W1070 and will do so until a viable and affordable 4k replacement arrives.
> So if I understand this correctly, the grey gives you a little better contrast but sacrifices brightness. Is it really necessary though in a dark room? Does the image look better in a dark room at night or am I better off getting the Cinewhite?


Depends on what you call a dark room. The contrast difference is not small, it's quite substantial. However how substantial depends on your room. If you have black carpet, everything covered black velvet, than yes I say get the cinewhite. If you just have dark paint on the walls and full light control, I say get the cinegray. It knocks down a whole lot of the light bouncing around the room. 

Also I've had my jvc rs640 now for 1.5weeks and I'm very happy with how this screen handles 4k HDR. No additional issues with a brighter higher resolution projector, or my much dimmer sony hw50es.


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## Cramer86

I'm very much interested in this screen, however i wonder how narrow one should follow the 1.5x distance to screen;
Lens is aprox. 315cm from screen, if i go for the 100", that means it needs to be (1.5x221) 331cm from screen 
That means that my screen would be +- 15cm "to close" to the screen; Would this cause extra hotspotting or sparkling?
If i go for the 92 that gives me (1.5x204) 306 and i'm within the "rule"..but that's a big drop in size...:s
Thanks for any insights;


----------



## 86C415

Cramer86 said:


> I'm very much interested in this screen, however i wonder how narrow one should follow the 1.5x distance to screen;
> Lens is aprox. 315cm from screen, if i go for the 100", that means it needs to be (1.5x221) 331cm from screen
> That means that my screen would be +- 15cm "to close" to the screen; Would this cause extra hotspotting or sparkling?
> If i go for the 92 that gives me (1.5x204) 306 and i'm within the "rule"..but that's a big drop in size...:s
> Thanks for any insights;


There seemed to be plenty of people using PJs like BenQ 1070 with Cinegrey 3D and none of them were complaining. I've even seen a couple claiming to have used actual short throw units with no issues. 

I'll be going for a very similar setup to what you're describing (100" 3D with a BenQ [email protected]). Considering they suggest the same 1.5x throw for 5D as well (which has higher gain so I assume more prone to hotspots), I think it'll be fine. Especially in cinema mode with the lamp on Eco. 

I'm very worried about one thing though. How on earth are you supposed to cover the corners of the frame without pulling the fabric over them? I read the instructions but I don't see how you can perfectly cover them and leave no metal exposed. And if you do pull the fabric over the corners, doesn't it get shredded?

Is showing a bit of metal corners unavoidable?


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## OrcusVaruna

Cramer86 said:


> I'm very much interested in this screen, however i wonder how narrow one should follow the 1.5x distance to screen;
> Lens is aprox. 315cm from screen, if i go for the 100", that means it needs to be (1.5x221) 331cm from screen
> That means that my screen would be +- 15cm "to close" to the screen; Would this cause extra hotspotting or sparkling?
> If i go for the 92 that gives me (1.5x204) 306 and i'm within the "rule"..but that's a big drop in size...:s
> Thanks for any insights;




I have a 100” Cinegrey 3D with a BenQ W1070 mounted 9’6” from the screen and I don’t see any hotspotting unless I sit on the floor. At normal chair height I don’t see any. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Kenwa

Can anyone weigh in on how important the 1.5x throw ratio is? I'd like to get a 110" screen but I will be a few inches (~5") below the minimum 145" throw distance (1.5 * 97 screen width). I have a Sony HW45ES projector. Is brightness uniformity the main reason the minimum 1.5x ratio is specified?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Kenwa said:


> Can anyone weigh in on how important the 1.5x throw ratio is? I'd like to get a 110" screen but I will be a few inches (~5") below the minimum 145" throw distance (1.5 * 97 screen width). I have a Sony HW45ES projector. Is brightness uniformity the main reason the minimum 1.5x ratio is specified?




My projector is 114” away from an 87” wide screen when it technically should be 131” according to the 1.5x width rule and I see no hotspoting or other abnormalities. So I would say you’ll be just fine. 

As an aside how do you like your Hw45es? Been throwing around upgrading to it or a 5040ub for some time now 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Kenwa

Good to hear. 

I haven't had the time to watch that much since I got my HW45ES in December, but so far I like it. I was actually ready to pull the trigger on the 5040UB until I compared the lumen output of it and the 45ES on ProjectorReviews (not counting modes like dynamic which I will never use for serious watching). Once I realized the Sony is actually pretty close (if not brighter) than the 5040, I pulled the trigger. I'll probably upgrade to a 4k projector when I get a dedicated room and 4k HDR brightness gets better (and hopefully laser).

Projected on my white wall, I was very impressed with the brightness, but obviously the contrast wasn't that great. I actually just put up a Dark Energy .9 gain screen, but it's a tad too dark during colorful scenes and experiences some mild hot-spotting (not an overly bright center, but a bit dim on the edges). I will say that the black levels and light rejection properties of the screen are *very good*. If it weren't for brightness decay due to bulb use, I would probably keep it. Last night I compared it with some Cinegrey 3D / 5D samples and the black levels take a slight hit, but the brightness is an improvement enough to make me want to switch to Cinegrey 3D. I'll probably make the purchase in the next day or two, get it assembled, and do a side-by-side comparison with the DEA screen before I decide which one to return.

Here's a comparison of the DEA screen with a Cinegrey 3D sample: 
https://streamable.com/rqcl8 

Ignore parts where it looks like there's a huge difference in brightness. The beginning with the sky and the vertical pan with the trees around the 30s mark I would say is the most accurate depiction of the brightness difference.

Now that I think about it, if I'm experiencing some mild hot-spotting with my current .9 gain screen, would a higher gain screen increase the likelihood of more severe hot-spotting? Is there a chance that the Cinegrey 3D would actually have less of a chance of hot-spotting due to some other difference? I really want as bright a picture I can get without dimness on the edges, so if that means moving to 100" instead of 110" I'm willing to make the sacrifice.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Kenwa said:


> Good to hear.
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't had the time to watch that much since I got my HW45ES in December, but so far I like it. I was actually ready to pull the trigger on the 5040UB until I compared the lumen output of it and the 45ES on ProjectorReviews (not counting modes like dynamic which I will never use for serious watching). Once I realized the Sony is actually pretty close (if not brighter) than the 5040, I pulled the trigger. I'll probably upgrade to a 4k projector when I get a dedicated room and 4k HDR brightness gets better (and hopefully laser).
> 
> 
> 
> Projected on my white wall, I was very impressed with the brightness, but obviously the contrast wasn't that great. I actually just put up a Dark Energy .9 gain screen, but it's a tad too dark during colorful scenes and experiences some mild hot-spotting (not an overly bright center, but a bit dim on the edges). I will say that the black levels and light rejection properties of the screen are *very good*. If it weren't for brightness decay due to bulb use, I would probably keep it. Last night I compared it with some Cinegrey 3D / 5D samples and the black levels take a slight hit, but the brightness is an improvement enough to make me want to switch to Cinegrey 3D. I'll probably make the purchase in the next day or two, get it assembled, and do a side-by-side comparison with the DEA screen before I decide which one to return.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a comparison of the DEA screen with a Cinegrey 3D sample:
> 
> https://streamable.com/rqcl8
> 
> 
> 
> Ignore parts where it looks like there's a huge difference in brightness. The beginning with the sky and the vertical pan with the trees around the 30s mark I would say is the most accurate depiction of the brightness difference.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I think about it, if I'm experiencing some mild hot-spotting with my current .9 gain screen, would a higher gain screen increase the likelihood of more severe hot-spotting? Is there a chance that the Cinegrey 3D would actually have less of a chance of hot-spotting due to some other difference? I really want as bright a picture I can get without dimness on the edges, so if that means moving to 100" instead of 110" I'm willing to make the sacrifice.




I really haven’t noticed much hotspotting you just have to mount the screen as close to centered on your viewing area as possible and try to get the midpoint of the screen as close to eye level as possible. How you have to position the screen and brightness changes based on seating position are very similar to how an older LCD tv behaved. See the pictures below which show the screen in moderate to high ambient light. Due to the iPhone cameras limitations picture 1 represents the actual amount of light and picture 2 is representative of the image I am actually seeing. 



















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## LumensLover

Kenwa said:


> Good to hear.
> 
> I haven't had the time to watch that much since I got my HW45ES in December, but so far I like it. I was actually ready to pull the trigger on the 5040UB until I compared the lumen output of it and the 45ES on ProjectorReviews (not counting modes like dynamic which I will never use for serious watching). Once I realized the Sony is actually pretty close (if not brighter) than the 5040, I pulled the trigger. I'll probably upgrade to a 4k projector when I get a dedicated room and 4k HDR brightness gets better (and hopefully laser).
> 
> Projected on my white wall, I was very impressed with the brightness, but obviously the contrast wasn't that great. I actually just put up a Dark Energy .9 gain screen, but it's a tad too dark during colorful scenes and experiences some mild hot-spotting (not an overly bright center, but a bit dim on the edges). I will say that the black levels and light rejection properties of the screen are *very good*. If it weren't for brightness decay due to bulb use, I would probably keep it. Last night I compared it with some Cinegrey 3D / 5D samples and the black levels take a slight hit, but the brightness is an improvement enough to make me want to switch to Cinegrey 3D. I'll probably make the purchase in the next day or two, get it assembled, and do a side-by-side comparison with the DEA screen before I decide which one to return.
> 
> Here's a comparison of the DEA screen with a Cinegrey 3D sample:
> https://streamable.com/rqcl8
> 
> Ignore parts where it looks like there's a huge difference in brightness. The beginning with the sky and the vertical pan with the trees around the 30s mark I would say is the most accurate depiction of the brightness difference.
> 
> Now that I think about it, if I'm experiencing some mild hot-spotting with my current .9 gain screen, would a higher gain screen increase the likelihood of more severe hot-spotting? Is there a chance that the Cinegrey 3D would actually have less of a chance of hot-spotting due to some other difference? I really want as bright a picture I can get without dimness on the edges, so if that means moving to 100" instead of 110" I'm willing to make the sacrifice.


The Sony 45es is not a bright projector. It's only putting out around 900 lumens in eco mode with a new bulb. The Sony 45es is not a good match to use with a below gain alr screen. The Epson 5040 would have been a much better match. I've owned both. The Epson 5040 in Bright Cinema setting on eco mode was twice as bright as the Sony 45es in game setting on eco mode.


----------



## Kenwa

LumensLover said:


> The Sony 45es is not a bright projector. It's only putting out around 900 lumens in eco mode with a new bulb. The Sony 45es is not a good match to use with a below gain alr screen. The Epson 5040 would have been a much better match. I've owned both. The Epson 5040 in Bright Cinema setting on eco mode was twice as bright as the Sony 45es in game setting on eco mode.


Well I'm past the return period and based on the reviews / threads I read, I thought the Sony was the best choice. Sounds like maybe I would've been better off with the 5040, but hopefully a higher gain screen like the Cinegrey 3D will be satisfactory on high lamp mode. If not, then I guess I'll just use a white screen and have bad contrast / black levels.

Hoping to get a house sometime in the next few years so whenever that happens and I get a dedicated dark room, I'll definitely upgrade to the latest and greatest.


----------



## LumensLover

Kenwa said:


> Well I'm past the return period and based on the reviews / threads I read, I thought the Sony was the best choice. Sounds like maybe I would've been better off with the 5040, but hopefully a higher gain screen like the Cinegrey 3D will be satisfactory on high lamp mode. If not, then I guess I'll just use a white screen and have bad contrast / black levels.
> 
> Hoping to get a house sometime in the next few years so whenever that happens and I get a dedicated dark room, I'll definitely upgrade to the latest and greatest.


Cinegrey 3D 120" or smaller screen would be a good match for the Sony HW45ES.


----------



## Kenwa

LumensLover said:


> Cinegrey 3D 120" or smaller screen would be a good match for the Sony HW45ES.


Good to hear. Going to buy a 110" right now!


----------



## LumensLover

Kenwa said:


> Good to hear. Going to buy a 110" right now!


I've had that exact combo before. Image was bright with 110" Cinegrey and the Sony's black levels held up well to off axis light. I'm sure you will enjoy the two.


----------



## hardrock_121

I have a Epson 2100 with dark blue walls and dark brown floors. But given its a walkout, i might have some decent lighting that i won't be able to control completely. Projector is mounted at 13-14ft and seating around 15. 106" Cinegrey 3d is what I am thinking of getting.. any opinions?


----------



## Kenwa

Hi all,

I set up my 110" Cinegrey 3D over the weekend and am pretty happy with the increased brightness.

However, there are a few cons:
The left and right edges of the screen are noticeably dimmer. As mentioned earlier, my throw distance is ~142" and the recommended throw distance (1.5 * screen width) is ~145". I also had this problem with the DEA screen, though maybe not as noticeable. This is probably due to my throw ratio and not so much the screen itself.
There's a few "lines" on the screen visible in bright scenes. I'm pretty certain they aren't ripples. The most noticeable one looks like a 6"-8" tall rectangle with a slightly darker tint going across the middle of the screen (horizontally), but only the very top center edge of it is distracting at times. The other line is very thin and vertical on the left side of the screen and has a bit of shininess to it and not really noticeable at all unless I'm looking for it. 

The second problem is barely noticeable most of the time so I don't think it will be much of an issue, but the dimness on the edges is something making me consider exchanging the screen for a 100" version. I'll keep watching things over the next couple of weeks and see if it's just one of those things I get used to. 

I suppose the issues I have aren't all that bad and I knew that ALR screens in general aren't going to be 100% satisfactory, but still a lot better than a white screen in a non-dedicated space, in my opinion.

Imgur mirror for the attached images: https://imgur.com/a/90i7p

Image comments if not viewing on imgur:

 Green mspaint image: A horizontal rectangle which is slightly darker can be seen going across the middle of the screen. Only noticeable in bright scenes. Ignore the vertical lines, they are probably a results of my camera's shutter speed.
 Grass picture with boar demon from Princess Mononoke: Best picture I could get which looks closest to in-person edge dimness.


----------



## teCh0010

Got my Aeon Cinegrey 3D assembled and up. Using an Epson 3100 at about 2x width, the projector is on a shelf at the back of the room. Everything looks great so far. 

Mine didn't come with felt edging that the earlier Aeon's did, I have aluminium edges that just come around on the front of the screen. Really like it, looks like a 120" wall mounted TV. 

I didn't have any of the issues other people have reported with wrinkles. I worked from the center out following the instructions, did two springs per side before going to the opposite side and doing two more springs.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Kenwa said:


> Hi all,
> 
> 
> 
> I set up my 110" Cinegrey 3D over the weekend and am pretty happy with the increased brightness.
> 
> 
> 
> However, there are a few cons:
> 
> The left and right edges of the screen are noticeably dimmer. As mentioned earlier, my throw distance is ~142" and the recommended throw distance (1.5 * screen width) is ~145". I also had this problem with the DEA screen, though maybe not as noticeable. This is probably due to my throw ratio and not so much the screen itself.
> 
> There's a few "lines" on the screen visible in bright scenes. I'm pretty certain they aren't ripples. The most noticeable one looks like a 6"-8" tall rectangle with a slightly darker tint going across the middle of the screen (horizontally), but only the very top center edge of it is distracting at times. The other line is very thin and vertical on the left side of the screen and has a bit of shininess to it and not really noticeable at all unless I'm looking for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The second problem is barely noticeable most of the time so I don't think it will be much of an issue, but the dimness on the edges is something making me consider exchanging the screen for a 100" version. I'll keep watching things over the next couple of weeks and see if it's just one of those things I get used to.
> 
> 
> 
> I suppose the issues I have aren't all that bad and I knew that ALR screens in general aren't going to be 100% satisfactory, but still a lot better than a white screen in a non-dedicated space, in my opinion.
> 
> 
> 
> Imgur mirror for the attached images: https://imgur.com/a/90i7p
> 
> 
> 
> Image comments if not viewing on imgur:
> 
> 
> Green mspaint image: A horizontal rectangle which is slightly darker can be seen going across the middle of the screen. Only noticeable in bright scenes. Ignore the vertical lines, they are probably a results of my camera's shutter speed.
> 
> Grass picture with boar demon from Princess Mononoke: Best picture I could get which looks closest to in-person edge dimness.




You will notice the ripples caused by the refractive nature of the screen when viewing the screen at an upward angle. Ideally this screen is best viewed with your eyes around the mid point of the screen from your seated position. IME the edge dimness is reduced when your eyes are at the midpoint as well. Finally since this is a high gain screen any imperfections in the optics will readily show themselves on edge dimness. For instance a 1.3 gain screen will magnify brightness discrepancies by roughly 30%. With this being said the edge dimness is very much visible when using a BenQ W1070 but when I stepped up to a 5040ube it’s virtually non-existent. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Qliver

So I was planning to get this screen (100") but after reading about it online I'm not sure it's going to work out for me. Because of furniture, the screen must be placed rather high up in our case, please see the attached image. Also the screen width to viewing distance ratio is 1.8, and we can't really get a bigger screen because of the size of the wall.









I tried contacting Elite Screens Europe but did not receive any reply. What do you guys think, does it make sense to use ALR in our room?


----------



## ttn333

I'm looking a bit more pop and contrast (currently using aeon cinewhite). How would this screen screen compare to cinewhite using an Optoma UHD65 with black walls, ceiling and carpet? Thanks


----------



## OrcusVaruna

ttn333 said:


> I'm looking a bit more pop and contrast (currently using aeon cinewhite). How would this screen screen compare to cinewhite using an Optoma UHD65 with black walls, ceiling and carpet? Thanks




It’s a pretty drastic change in my experience especially for a projector with middling black levels like the uhd65. Also will help out how hdr looks since it’s a high gain screen. Just be aware though that you get some serious hot spotting if the screens midpoint is not at eye level. If you mount the screen properly the results are outstanding and far better then any alr material I’ve seen under $2000


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dxplicitone

teCh0010 said:


> Got my Aeon Cinegrey 3D assembled and up. Using an Epson 3100 at about 2x width, the projector is on a shelf at the back of the room. Everything looks great so far.
> 
> Mine didn't come with felt edging that the earlier Aeon's did, I have aluminium edges that just come around on the front of the screen. Really like it, looks like a 120" wall mounted TV.
> 
> I didn't have any of the issues other people have reported with wrinkles. I worked from the center out following the instructions, did two springs per side before going to the opposite side and doing two more springs.


teCh I would be really interested in seeing your setup if you are able to take a pic or two. I am considering the exact screen you pickup up and would really prefer the black alum edge to a felt as you mentioned. How did you feel about the construction of the frame, and how the screen itself was mounted to the frame? I have read about people having ripping during installing and i can honestly say it freaks me out to the point i wanted to build my own.


----------



## ttn333

dxplicitone said:


> teCh I would be really interested in seeing your setup if you are able to take a pic or two. I am considering the exact screen you pickup up and would really prefer the black alum edge to a felt as you mentioned. How did you feel about the construction of the frame, and how the screen itself was mounted to the frame? I have read about people having ripping during installing and i can honestly say it freaks me out to the point i wanted to build my own.


I have the cinewhite version and installation was a breeze. You just have to be careful about sharp edges and take your time. Having another person assist you helps a lot. The sharp edge is really the corners for the most part. You have to pull and stretch the screen material around the frame and it's velcroed together. The aluminum edge just snaps onto the frame I believe. I didn't use it for mine because I prefer the edgeless look. 

Question I have is my screen is mounted a little high so that eye level is at bottom 3rd of the screen, would there be issues with the cinegrey like hot spotting? Thanks


----------



## OrcusVaruna

ttn333 said:


> I have the cinewhite version and installation was a breeze. You just have to be careful about sharp edges and take your time. Having another person assist you helps a lot. The sharp edge is really the corners for the most part. You have to pull and stretch the screen material around the frame and it's velcroed together. The aluminum edge just snaps onto the frame I believe. I didn't use it for mine because I prefer the edgeless look.
> 
> 
> 
> Question I have is my screen is mounted a little high so that eye level is at bottom 3rd of the screen, would there be issues with the cinegrey like hot spotting? Thanks




When your eyes are below the mid point of the screen you will see hotspot vertical lines that are very distracting 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

OrcusVaruna said:


> When your eyes are below the mid point of the screen you will see hotspot vertical lines that are very distracting
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Is this statement only true for these types of screen or does that apply to white screens too?


----------



## Kenwa

My eyes are level with the bottom third of the screen and I do not experience the vertical hotstpot lines described above. The manual actually recommends (see attached) that the angle between the projector and center of the screen be equal to the angle between the viewer's eyes and the center of the screen so I can't imagine what situation would result in your eyes being level with the center unless the projector is extremely close to your head.

The left and right edges of the screen are noticeably dimmer during some scenes, but that's most likely due to my throw ratio being slightly below the recommended 1.5x ratio.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Kenwa said:


> My eyes are level with the bottom third of the screen and I do not experience the vertical hotstpot lines described above. The manual actually recommends (see attached) that the angle between the projector and center of the screen be equal to the angle between the viewer's eyes and the center of the screen so I can't imagine what situation would result in your eyes being level with the center unless the projector is extremely close to your head.
> 
> 
> 
> The left and right edges of the screen are noticeably dimmer during some scenes, but that's most likely due to my throw ratio being slightly below the recommended 1.5x ratio.




Interesting I have experienced it both with my BenQ w1070 and now with my epson 5040 but maybe as you pointed out I too am seated closer to 1.0 then 1.5x 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Qliver

ttn333 said:


> Question I have is my screen is mounted a little high so that eye level is at bottom 3rd of the screen, would there be issues with the cinegrey like hot spotting? Thanks


I doubt that, that's the recommended viewing height, isn't it? According to Elite Screens it should work for me as well and my screen bottom would be at eye level.


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## justplainlawr

RigorousXChris said:


> Do LEDs around the screen helped with perceived contrast?


I'm curious about this too. Just purchased and installed version 2 of the Aeon CineGrey 3D 135" (the version with springs and not the velcro). LED backlighting would be a nice finishing touch to the setup, but if this also increases perceived contrast this is a very worthwhile $150 upgrade.


----------



## Michael Porter

OrcusVaruna said:


> It’s a pretty drastic change in my experience especially for a projector with middling black levels like the uhd65. Also will help out how hdr looks since it’s a high gain screen. Just be aware though that you get some serious hot spotting if the screens midpoint is not at eye level. If you mount the screen properly the results are outstanding and far better then any alr material I’ve seen under $2000
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


When you say you get hot spotting, can you confirm whether this is due to mounting below the recommended 1.5 throw distance? My understanding is hot spotting can be bad when the trow distance is too short/close, so I'm curious if this ended up being your issue. Thanks.


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## jbjohn2k17

*Cinegrey 135"*

I love my cinegrey 135" it actually helps improve my 7-year-old projector's poor contrast. Highly recommend it.


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## OrcusVaruna

Michael Porter said:


> When you say you get hot spotting, can you confirm whether this is due to mounting below the recommended 1.5 throw distance? My understanding is hot spotting can be bad when the trow distance is too short/close, so I'm curious if this ended up being your issue. Thanks.



Placing the projector closer plays a roll but if you mount the screen and projector properly you can get away with a mount closer to 1.0 with no hotspotting. In my previous house I was right at 1.5 and in my current one I’m at about 1.0 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## markross_ita

86C415 said:


> There seemed to be plenty of people using PJs like BenQ 1070 with Cinegrey 3D and none of them were complaining. I've even seen a couple claiming to have used actual short throw units with no issues.
> 
> I'll be going for a very similar setup to what you're describing (100" 3D with a BenQ [email protected]). Considering they suggest the same 1.5x throw for 5D as well (which has higher gain so I assume more prone to hotspots), I think it'll be fine. Especially in cinema mode with the lamp on Eco.


Can you tell me your thoughts on it? Any hotspot / sparkling ?


----------



## markross_ita

OrcusVaruna said:


> Placing the projector closer plays a roll but if you mount the screen and projector properly you can get away with a mount closer to 1.0 with no hotspotting. In my previous house I was right at 1.5 and in my current one I’m at about 1.0
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What do you mean by "mounting the screen and the projector properly"? How is properly in this case?


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## PW405

markross_ita said:


> What do you mean by "mounting the screen and the projector properly"? How is properly in this case?


I think he just means at the recommended 1.5X the screen size for mounting distance. 

General, mostly unrelated thought:

I've used my CineGrey 3D with a BenQ1070, an Epson 2045, an Epson 2150 (for a week), and now an Epson 3700. 

Hot spotting was definitely most notable on the BenQ W1070. As to be expected, as it generally has a lower brightness uniformity than the Epson's. 

However, of important note... I never noticed any hotspotting during real use, meaning that hotspotting was generally only notable when a solid color (white, particularly) was filling the entire screen. When real images & motion are occurring, not noticed at all. 

If you plan to use the CineGrey 3D as a computer monitor would be the only use-case I would be concerned about hot spotting. 

Another interesting tidbit I've encountered after using the CineGrey 3D for over 2 years now. Sparkles. A sparkle developed randomly one day. Out of the blue. I could only see it from certain perspectives and it was driving me nuts. 

How could a sparkle randomly show up? Answer? Dust. Somehow after I dusted the screen and made sure it was clean, the sparkle was gone. Very odd. The dust must have somehow been changing the reflection angle on a tiny pinhead size of the screen to where the reflection was directly in to my eye balls.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

markross_ita said:


> What do you mean by "mounting the screen and the projector properly"? How is properly in this case?




Using it closer then the recommended 1.5x just requires you to test screen placement with the mounting height of your projector. In essence you have much less placement flexibility. For instance in my last setup my projector was mounted 10’ from a 100” screen and 6’5” off the floor. In order to not get hotspotting from my couch and recliner which place an average height persons eyes about 40” off the ground the bottom of my screen had to be 23-26” off the floor. This mounting height will be different for each setup but with a little bit of trial and error virtually any non short throw mounting distance can work with this screen. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## markross_ita

What do you mean by any non short throw mounting distance ? How about a Benq W2000?


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## markross_ita

I have just received a Cinegrey 3D, but it’s come with Velcro rather than springs ! 

Was I sent an old version by amazon or a return ?


----------



## pottscb

Just curious if sparklies were any worse on 5D than 3D? Also, this screen material is many years old now, has anyone compared the original 3D/5D from 2016 vs. a screen produced this year? Sometimes manufacturers tweak screen material recipes...course, they usually start charging more for the newer material. I'm needing an electric ALR screen and the MSRP on Elites Starling 120" is $1624. Are there any other manufacturers I should be considering for that kind of money (or slightly more). I know SI electrics screens start about a $1K higher. Dalite, Draper, Vutec used to make competitive screens but seem to mostly have abstained from the ALR market. I'm ordering the sample pack from them Cinegrey, 3D, 5D and will report back.


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## Jrunr

pottscb said:


> Just curious if sparklies were any worse on 5D than 3D? Also, this screen material is many years old now, has anyone compared the original 3D/5D from 2016 vs. a screen produced this year? Sometimes manufacturers tweak screen material recipes...course, they usually start charging more for the newer material. I'm needing an electric ALR screen and the MSRP on Elites Starling 120" is $1624. Are there any other manufacturers I should be considering for that kind of money (or slightly more). I know SI electrics screens start about a $1K higher. Dalite, Draper, Vutec used to make competitive screens but seem to mostly have abstained from the ALR market. I'm ordering the sample pack from them Cinegrey, 3D, 5D and will report back.


I am interested in this as well. Did you ever compare the samples?


----------



## sirius_basterd

*off-axis viewing*

How bad is the off-axis decay in the Cinegray 3D? Most of the time I'll be on the couch in the center but sometimes we have friends over and people will sit pretty far to either side. Is it going to be super dim for them? 



I'm looking at buying the Epson 5050 with it, so it's not the brightest projector ever, and this is obviously in a room with some ambient light...


----------



## Jrunr

Would it make sense to use the Cinegray 3D in a light controlled room for more contrast? I have a BenQ HT550 projector and I am just trying to get the best picture I can in my little theater. I am assuming the 1.2 gain on this helps with overall brightness as well. Is this the case? Or is it just best to go with a regular, white, 1.1 gain screen?


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## noob00224

sirius_basterd said:


> How bad is the off-axis decay in the Cinegray 3D? Most of the time I'll be on the couch in the center but sometimes we have friends over and people will sit pretty far to either side. Is it going to be super dim for them?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm looking at buying the Epson 5050 with it, so it's not the brightest projector ever, and this is obviously in a room with some ambient light...


This chart is accurate when it comes to gain versus angle of viewing:
https://elitescreens.com/kcfinder/u...s_Screen Material/CineGrey3D_gainChart(1).jpg

The 5050UB has good black levels, this screen could have a negative impact on those. If lights on viewing is really necessary a light grey or a better (more expensive) ALR screen is recommended.
To get those black levels from the 5050UB to begin with reflections from walls need to be eliminated, with at least dark paint or dark fabric.



Jrunr said:


> Would it make sense to use the Cinegray 3D in a light controlled room for more contrast? I have a BenQ HT550 projector and I am just trying to get the best picture I can in my little theater. I am assuming the 1.2 gain on this helps with overall brightness as well. Is this the case? Or is it just best to go with a regular, white, 1.1 gain screen?


This type of screen can have a hotspot and other issues. Same advice as above.


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## noob00224

Examples of hotspot on a Benq W2000 (HT3050) and a 106" Cinegrey 3D, white walls. 

The first 6 attached pictures with throw range x1.15 (minimum), table mounted, Full lamp, 1h on lamp, Cinema, Brilliant Color off. The hotspot in the Passengers and other examples looks better in real life than the pictures, but don't know if it's acceptable.

The last 3 are with the longest throw range, x1.5. 1h on lamp, Cinema, ceiling mounted. From left to right: Full (with BC), Full, ECO. It's not that obvious from the pictures, but the hotspot is impacted by the brightness of the projector.

Hotpot clearly seen in the 9th picture in the link below. x1.5 throw range, SmartEco (similar to Full with the white background), BC off, ~1000h on lamp:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...e-cinema-projector-review-3.html#post57673262

Brilliant color adds 27% more brightness. 
The difference in brightness between full zoom and min zoom (or longest and shortest throw range) is also 27%. The closer the projector is the brighter it will be. The brighter it is the more pronounced the hotspot.

With ALR's the the angle at which the light hits the screen matters because it is reflected back at the same angle. Which is why short or ultra short projectors cannot be used with this type of fabric, and generally the minimum recommended throw range is x1.5.


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## noob00224

Took some more pictures. Placed two white A4 sheets on the center of the screen for comparison.
Setup is the same as above: Benq W2000 (HT3050), throw range 1.5x, ~700 lumens, Cinema (Rec.709), BC off, SmartEco (very similar to Normal), 106" Cinegrey 3D screen, room with white walls.
The four scenarios are, from left to right:
1. Lights off, blackout curtains on.
2. Lights off, blackout curtains off, transparent (orange tinted) curtain on. An orange tint can be seen in some pictures.
3. Lights off, all curtains off, with two windows open, in daytime. One window is just the right of the screen, the other one is at a 45 degree angle.
4. Curtains on, one light on at 1.5m/5ft from the screen. It directly hits the screen. A yellow spot can be seen in the upper center of the screen.


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## noob00224

Part 2:


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## noob00224

Part 3:


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## noob00224

Part 4:


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## noob00224

I have an older fabric.
The refresh gave a lighter shade and increased the viewing angels from 85 to 90 degrees, reducing the ALR fighting capabilities.
It also resulted in a reduced hotspot.

Optoma UHD50 at 1.35x throw range:



Wesley True said:


> When i took a pick eye level the camera picked up a ridiculous amount of hotspot which My eye was not seeing fist picture is a 720 p cable but real world the other 2 show hotspoting but you would never actually look at something like this


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## Waikis

noob00224 said:


> Examples of hotspot on a Benq W2000 (HT3050) and a 106" Cinegrey 3D, white walls.
> 
> The first 6 attached pictures with throw range x1.15 (minimum), table mounted, Full lamp, 1h on lamp, Cinema, Brilliant Color off. The hotspot in the Passengers and other examples looks better in real life than the pictures, but don't know if it's acceptable.
> 
> The last 3 are with the longest throw range, x1.5. 1h on lamp, Cinema, ceiling mounted. From left to right: Full (with BC), Full, ECO. It's not that obvious from the pictures, but the hotspot is impacted by the brightness of the projector.
> 
> Hotpot clearly seen in the 9th picture in the link below. x1.5 throw range, SmartEco (similar to Full with the white background), BC off, ~1000h on lamp:
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...e-cinema-projector-review-3.html#post57673262
> 
> Brilliant color adds 27% more brightness.
> The difference in brightness between full zoom and min zoom (or longest and shortest throw range) is also 27%. The closer the projector is the brighter it will be. The brighter it is the more pronounced the hotspot.
> 
> With ALR's the the angle at which the light hits the screen matters because it is reflected back at the same angle. Which is why short or ultra short projectors cannot be used with this type of fabric, and generally the minimum recommended throw range is x1.5.


Gee, if only this comparison existed when I bought the Cinegrey 3d early this year : (
I ended up replacing it as I couldn't stand the hot spotting.


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## Drew Dough

Waikis said:


> Gee, if only this comparison existed when I bought the Cinegrey 3d early this year : (
> I ended up replacing it as I couldn't stand the hot spotting.


thinking of getting a Cinegrey3d or 5d.

how far was your throw distance?
Did you try to re-position the projector to remove the hotspotting?
Just trying to understand if this is a problem with the screen themselves or just your own room setup couldn't accomodate what it needed.

thanks!


----------



## Waikis

Drew Dough said:


> thinking of getting a Cinegrey3d or 5d.
> 
> how far was your throw distance?
> Did you try to re-position the projector to remove the hotspotting?
> Just trying to understand if this is a problem with the screen themselves or just your own room setup couldn't accomodate what it needed.
> 
> thanks!


Throw distance is about 3 - 3.5m away.
Projector is positioned close to the top of the screen. 

I couldn't reposition the PJ unfortunately.


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## annihilator

i think noob ha s issues with the screen...never seen such hot spot so...
100% you mounted badly or not respect the instructions of mounting or vpr is such bad vpr 

i'm in the mood on taking a cinegrey 3d..waiting in amazon availability so in case i can send it back

how would fit with a JVC RS46 (eco lamp of course) 3.5 meters far lens to screen, lens almost at center of screen (20cm more left and 25 above center) 203 base (92 inches).?

all white walls


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## noob00224

annihilator said:


> i think noob ha s issues with the screen...never seen such hot spot so...
> 100% you mounted badly or not respect the instructions of mounting or vpr is such bad vpr
> 
> i'm in the mood on taking a cinegrey 3d..waiting in amazon availability so in case i can send it back
> 
> how would fit with a JVC RS46 (eco lamp of course) 3.5 meters far lens to screen, lens almost at center of screen (20cm more left and 25 above center) 203 base (92 inches).?
> 
> all white walls


The camera accentuates the way the hotspot looks, it's not as bad as in the pictures, but it's there.
Mounting is correct, tried different setups, all have the same result. Did not try with tilted projector and using keystone, just with the W2000/HT3050 level and using the (limited) lens shift.
It's an older version of the fabric, a newer one has been released some time ago with less ALR properties and as a result less artifacting.

ALR screens are like mirrors, so placing it on the center axis is required, otherwise the light will reflect in the reverse of the difference of placement.
I also haven't seen any angular ALR setup with the projector placed in the middle of the screen, only above/below, so not sure how it will react.

With that JVC the room should be treated. This ALR fabric and others will raise the black level, which what JVC's are great at.

The other option would be to use a special paint mix that will give a negative gain of dark parts of the screen and positive for bright parts, at the same time. Not complicated, but does require painting.


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## annihilator

sorry to be sceptical but....are you joking? i mean, with ALR and a jvc the black raises? sorry but probably you drunk a bit ahah
this screens ar there to rise the contrast and you are saying that jvc with alr is going worse with contrast and black?
i've seen a supernova and a darkstar and all of them are exposed\show room with jvc (and believe me in some cases the blacks are too deep for me ahah).

Sorry but...if i see that post i understand why you got some big issues...

i've seen some of them and if good placed the problems are quite less or almost none. Plus the jvc is a perfect fit


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## noob00224

annihilator said:


> sorry to be sceptical but....are you joking? i mean, with ALR and a jvc the black raises? sorry but probably you drunk a bit ahah
> this screens ar there to rise the contrast and you are saying that jvc with alr is going worse with contrast and black?
> i've seen a supernova and a darkstar and all of them are exposed\show room with jvc (and believe me in some cases the blacks are too deep for me ahah).
> 
> Sorry but...if i see that post i understand why you got some big issues...
> 
> i've seen some of them and if good placed the problems are quite less or almost none. Plus the jvc is a perfect fit


Yes.
Some ALR's do raise the black level.
A positive/negative (ALR) gain screen can improve perceived contrast because of the increased gain. Contrast is measured by the brightest white and darkest black. In a dark scene however there is not bright light to make the darks appear darker.
The reflective properties of the screen that give it it's ALR properties are a factor. Even with the projector turned off, I can see the 3D "glowing" in the dark because of LED's from electronic equipment. The effect is similar to IPS glow. In the dark with projector and lights off it's less powerful, but can still be observed.
Another factor is the positive gain.
Another is the neighboring light from the not dark parts of the image.
And yet another is the reflections from white walls. 
Because of how angular ALR works and that projectors don't have 100% uniformity, the center will be brighter than the edges. This means that it would be beneficial for overall brightness to keep the center brighter, which in combination with for instance a positive gain fabric will contribute to this effect.
All of these can make the ALR film on the screen glow thus raising the black level.

The EVP Darkstar 9, dnp Supernova 08-85/ Parallax Pure 0.8 are negative gain screens, and better engineered. Note the price difference between the Cingrey 3D and any of the three fabrics mentioned.


bdht said:


> I For instance Da-Lite reports the Parallax 0.8 as a minimum recommended throw ratio of 1.5, and I don't see hotspotting, or at least not pronounced hotspotting(i.e. very faint) at 1.4./
> 
> 
> 
> Can't say for sure about other ALR fabrics. The XY BC 0.8 does not appear to raise it. Possibly other negative gain will behave similarly.
> 
> 
> I'm just telling you what my two and a half year experience with the 3D has been.
> 
> The throw range with an 92" screen from 350cm is 1.71x. There was a post of a Cingrey 3D and an Epson HC3800 of that throw range and there was still a hotspot visible on a white image. The Epson is brighter of course, but on my unit the hotspot barely changes when switching from Full lamp to Eco.
> 
> In any case using a JVC in a room with white walls with a Cinegrey 3D is not the best solution.
Click to expand...


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## annihilator

you don't eve know what you're talking about. Gain is not made for raising blacks but to compensate the total amount of light which is more taken by the screen.
Thus the cinegrey 3d for ex (even the 5d) you don't even know what is the real gain (which is not positive, the 1.2 is more 0.8-0.9 and 1.5 is 1 or 1.1). This screens are made also for projectors who doesn't have good contrast or good level of black. People take them expecially for like dlp ecc to raise a bit the black levels...but with JVC is the opposite!  come on man....

I've seen an atom 1.2 skyfix borderless recentely with a jvc RS45 and the differences (in blacks too) wer day and night...to the alr screen for course


----------



## noob00224

annihilator said:


> you don't eve know what you're talking about. Gain is not made for raising blacks but to compensate the total amount of light which is more taken by the screen.
> Thus the cinegrey 3d for ex (even the 5d) you don't even know what is the real gain (which is not positive, the 1.2 is more 0.8-0.9 and 1.5 is 1 or 1.1). This screens are made also for projectors who doesn't have good contrast or good level of black. People take them expecially for like dlp ecc to raise a bit the black levels...but with JVC is the opposite!  come on man....
> 
> I've seen an atom 1.2 skyfix borderless recentely with a jvc RS45 and the differences (in blacks too) wer day and night...to the alr screen for course


Ok you got me, I give up.

Also this:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-s...ns-jvc-x790r-white-grey-alr.html#post59111394


----------



## Ethan1995

Can anyone confirm that the gain of cinegrey 3D is negetive as mentioned in above thread. I heard that the gain chart on the Elite screen website for cinegrey 3D was accurate with max gain being 1.2 on axis...


----------



## noob00224

Ethan1995 said:


> Can anyone confirm that the gain of cinegrey 3D is negetive as mentioned in above thread. I heard that the gain chart on the Elite screen website for cinegrey 3D was accurate with max gain being 1.2 on axis...


The Cinegrey 3D hasn't been measured yet. The 5D when it was measured it was 33% less than claimed, 1.0 instead of 1.5:
https://www.accucalav.com/wp-content/uploads/accucal_front_projection_screen_report.pdf

_Test Method
On Axis measurements are perpendicular to the screen
Off Axis measurements were taken 18 degrees to the side and 6 degrees down, but are of the same location as the on axis measurement point on the screen

_Off axis were taken to measure the gain at the angle where the beam is reflected from a projector in the ceiling location.


----------



## Drew Dough

For what it's worth, noob warned me against getting the Cinegrey3D but I got it anyway because of all the really good reviews. Lots of reviews say they don't have any hotspotting or sparkling.

I also have the perfect room for it in theory. Projector is mounted high, and far back, PJ (Epson Home Cinema 3800) also has Max horizontal shift set (60%). The angle should be right in the place that would angle back to me at my couch.

That being said, I have no hot spotting, but sparkling is noticible. I have spent the last few weeks adjusting the height of my PJ even further and have called Elite. I've adjusted picture settinfsz etc. In the daytime, the picture is unreal good. No sparkles. But at night , any scene with bright/light colors has noticible sparkles. Now, I may just be obsessing about them. My girlfriend can't even notice them. One of my friends thinks it's acceptable altho he can see it, and the other can't really notice it either.

I got the screen from Amazon so may return it and try either the flat white or the Cinegrey (not 3D).

I'll spend more time messing with mounting options altho I do feel ive done almost everything I can . My viewing distance is 15 feet BTW.


----------



## noob00224

Drew Dough said:


> For what it's worth, noob warned me against getting the Cinegrey3D but I got it anyway because of all the really good reviews. Lots of reviews say they don't have any hotspotting or sparkling.
> 
> I also have the perfect room for it in theory. Projector is mounted high, and far back, PJ (Epson Home Cinema 3800) also has Max horizontal shift set (60%). The angle should be right in the place that would angle back to me at my couch.
> 
> That being said, I have no hot spotting, but sparkling is noticible. I have spent the last few weeks adjusting the height of my PJ even further and have called Elite. I've adjusted picture settinfsz etc. In the daytime, the picture is unreal good. No sparkles. But at night , any scene with bright/light colors has noticible sparkles. Now, I may just be obsessing about them. My girlfriend can't even notice them. One of my friends thinks it's acceptable altho he can see it, and the other can't really notice it either.
> 
> I got the screen from Amazon so may return it and try either the flat white or the Cinegrey (not 3D).
> 
> I'll spend more time messing with mounting options altho I do feel ive done almost everything I can . My viewing distance is 15 feet BTW.


I remember seeing a hotspot on a white background in a deleted post.

Samples are better in non ALR fabrics then with ALR fabrics since they don't hotspot.


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## noob00224

Elite suggested Drew Dough mount the projector higher to improve the image.
With the W2000/HT3050 which has an offset of 105%, mounted it 7 inches higher and used the lens shift at 0%. The hotspot was still there.


----------



## noob00224

Wesley True said:


> Here are some pics woth white back grounds . Yes you can see hot spotting but how often are you looking at images of just a white back ground . Absolutely never . How a lofted are you looking a a picture with a persons in a totally white back ground .. never .. just watching regular movie I don’t think it’s noticeable so who cares .. . This is my opinion .. yes I would like the picture to be perfect but that probably cost a lot of money and theater room etc ..I understand true search for perfection .


With a hotspot, or even without one, the edges are dimmer than the center. In this case, to illustrate how dark the edges get with the Cinegrey 3D/other ALR with a hotpost I placed two pieces of white A4 paper in the upper left corner. Same scenarios as on the previous page.

The greyscale (16-235) is set for the ALR, not the white paper. 
Without the paper it's not really that noticeable, but the paper really makes the difference clear in bright scenes.


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## annihilator

hi guys!
i post here also my experience with the cinegrey.
Together with my jvc RS46 previously i projected to the white (not clear one) wall.
I've got a living room, all white walls, parquet clear ecc...totally dark but sooo much light from the walls.

My jvc is stunning image of course, contrasts and blacks but i wanted to boost the experience. I use the jvc in low lamp, -12\13 iris, ligtht is not a problem on this model expecially with a 92 inches 203 width and 3,60m far lens\screen.
Everything is respected, lens throw ecc for the cinegrey

First of all arrived the velcro one, which i don't like, it's almost impossible to mount. First reason to ship back (i bought via amazon).
The result are suttning for something and not like for others, for this reason after couple of hours decided to ship back.
Hot spot is minimal, no chance to see it in a normal usage. Uniformity of jvc helps and also the perfect throw distance and not big big screen. Sparkling zero.
Contrast is boosted, black is ultra black now, contrast is superb and in some point seems really an oled (with better colors in my opinion). Total black screen with a center white figure is stunning. Colors very nice.

BUT
Birghtness is much lower...this is no chance to be a 1.2 gain, more likely 0,8 and 0,5 on the sides....I put it just below my wall to see the differences and in a sunnt day one was sunny (probably even too much) and with the screen is cloudy...that feeling i hate.
The white point is very good.

Overall probably will see for the 5D even that is not really a 1.5 but surely is better. And will see...
For me does not worth the 500 euros, i mean i wouldn't pay that for it.
totally i would say native contrast of my jvc on wall is 8\10, on screen 10\10. Birghntess 8\10 wall and 4-5/10 on screen.

I didnt' get what is difference a part of gain from 5D...i mean...300 euros more is huge. Probably will try and send it back again even the 5D


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## Ethan1995

Can someone explain to me that if the real gain of cinegrey 3d is 0.8 then why it shows hot spotting I thought only the positive gain screen show hotspots?


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## noob00224

Ethan1995 said:


> Can someone explain to me that if the real gain of cinegrey 3d is 0.8 then why it shows hot spotting I thought only the positive gain screen show hotspots?





satyab said:


> Part of the reason for low numbers is my budget screen Elite Cinegrey 3D and small amount of lighting from windows. Screen is advertised as 1.1 gain, but as per chad it was only 0.7.



Hotspotting can manifest regardless of gain, if the projector is too close. It's because of how the technology works, like a mirror. The closer it gets, the reflection of the beam sent at the edges goes further away from the viewer's position.


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## Cryptic7

Hot-spotting isn't because of how close it is, it's because of the gain *relative to the surface color*.

The final on axis gain may be 0.8, but this screen still has angular gain to reflect ambient light. That means the gain at 45 degrees may be 0.4 or less. So a short throw will hit light on the screen at a wide angle, and the gain at those angles will be lower.

The final on axis gain is a combination of the angular gain of the screen as well as the base lambertian gain (background color) of the material.


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## Cryptic7

noob00224 said:


> Wesley True said:
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pics woth white back grounds . Yes you can see hot spotting but how often are you looking at images of just a white back ground . Absolutely never . How a lofted are you looking a a picture with a persons in a totally white back ground .. never .. just watching regular movie I donâ€™️t think itâ€™️s noticeable so who cares .. . This is my opinion .. yes I would like the picture to be perfect but that probably cost a lot of money and theater room etc ..I understand true search for perfection .
> 
> 
> 
> With a hotspot, or even without one, the edges are dimmer than the center. In this case, to illustrate how dark the edges get with the Cinegrey 3D/other ALR with a hotpost I placed two pieces of white A4 paper in the upper left corner. Same scenarios as on the previous page.
> 
> The greyscale (16-235) is set for the ALR, not the white paper.
> Without the paper it's nor really that noticeable, but the paper really makes the difference clear in bright scenes.
Click to expand...

What throw Ratio are you using here?


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## noob00224

Cryptic7 said:


> What throw Ratio are you using here?


~1.5x, the longest throw the projector is capable of.


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## noob00224

Cryptic7 said:


> Hot-spotting isn't because of how close it is, it's because of the gain *relative to the surface color*.
> 
> The final on axis gain may be 0.8, but this screen still has angular gain to reflect ambient light. That means the gain at 45 degrees may be 0.4 or less. So a short throw will hit light on the screen at a wide angle, and the gain at those angles will be lower.
> 
> The final on axis gain is a combination of the angular gain of the screen as well as the base lambertian gain (background color) of the material.


The distance from the screen is defacto a component in how the hotspot manifest itself for the reason mention in the post above. The others as you said are the added gain and half angle/viewing cone.



R Harkness said:


> BUT...there's also another reason: Not all gray screens are dim. Many, most these days, combine the gray screen color with an overlay of optical coating. The optical coating is used to increase the reflectivity and hence the brightness of the image, so it doesn't get too dim. The coating also makes the reflective characteristics of the gray screen more mirror-like in it's directionality, so that the projector light is reflected more towards the viewer, less on to the surrounding walls. (If you are facing a white wall and someone shines a fashlight from above your head on an angle at the wall, the white wall will diffuse the light and light will scatter everywhere, lighting up the rest of the room, like a white screen does. Replace the wall with a mirror - now there is no diffusion of the image of the flashlight - what you see reflected is the focused beam of light right into your eyes). In this way, gray screens with optical gain can have a satisfyingly bright image while also helping maintain good contrast if you have some ambient light, or reflective room surfaces.
> 
> BUT...there is a trade off. When you add optical coating to make the reflection more mirror-like, you are of necessity focusing the light to a smaller central area of the screen. This results in uneven screen illumination known as "hot-spotting," where - especially apparent if you have a blank white image - you can see the projector beam being focused more in the center of the screen, and the screen dims significantly as you move off center to the edges of the screen. So it's like a mild spot-light effect in terms of brightness.
> 
> This has implications for the "gray screen looks dimmer than a white screen" effect. A good example is the difference between the original Stewart Firehawk gray screen with gain, rated 1.3 gain, and Stewarts ST-130 white screen, also rated 1.3 gain. Being rated the same gain suggests they "should" put out exactly the same bright image. But they don't. The white screen has a very modest bit of optical gain applied, which results in very little hot-spotting and to our eyes very even illumination across the whole screen. The gray screen requires more aggressive levels of optical coating to get brightness up to the same 1.3 gain levels, and that more aggressive coating means more focusing of hte light, and hence more hot-spotting. In other words, you get the "bright center" and dimming away from the center effect.
> 
> So put on the same image on both the white ST-130 screen and the gray Firehawk screen, and only the center of the Firehawk image will look as bright - the rest, most of the image, fades in brightness and therefore is, and looks, dimmer. So, for all intents and purposes, even though they are rated the same gain for brightness, most of the image on the gray screen is in reality dimmer. The same image on the white screen will have an even brightness across the whole screen and hence it will seem to have brighter whites and more "pop" for the same image brightness coming from the projector. The gray screen will always have this uneven light, fading brightness problem.


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## rollon1980

My friend got a 140” CineGrey 5D to begin with then they (accidentally mind you) replaced the material with CineGrey 3D.

He is using a JVC x9900 shooting from about 5m.

I absolutely hated the CineGrey 5D he had. Heaps of sparkles and visible screen structure. It really got in the way of watching content for me. He wasn’t as bothered with it. 

However, the hot spotting the brightness drop off was noticeable for everyone. I personally would NOT use CineGrey 5D for anything larger than 100”, regardless of the throw ratio due to this.

A few weeks ago he received a replacement material and it is actually the CineGrey 3D. I think this is a much better material all around, even during the daytime. Minimal artefacting (only in very bright scenes and it’s minimal really).

The brightness drop off is much less obvious and more minimal. If you look for it, it’s there but it is not bad. In fact, you can watch this screen at extreme angles (West beyond 90 degrees) and still get a respectable image. You could not do that with the CineGrey 5D.

I personally had a Dark Energy Pulsar in 100” that had artefacts that are worse than the 3D and less than the 5D. It performed well for light rejection but the artefacts were distracting. It had to be sent back due to manufacturing issues and after having seen the latest CineGrey 3D material, I am going to switch to it in special order CinemaScope format. 

I think stop obsessing about the sparklies With very very bright objects, guys. It happens even on high end screens and materials. The CineGrey 3D is a good material!!!


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## noob00224

rollon1980 said:


> My friend got a 140” CineGrey 5D to begin with then they (accidentally mind you) replaced the material with CineGrey 3D.
> 
> He is using a JVC x9900 shooting from about 5m.
> 
> I absolutely hated the CineGrey 5D he had. Heaps of sparkles and visible screen structure. It really got in the way of watching content for me. He wasn’t as bothered with it.
> 
> However, the hot spotting the brightness drop off was noticeable for everyone. I personally would NOT use CineGrey 5D for anything larger than 100”, regardless of the throw ratio due to this.
> 
> A few weeks ago he received a replacement material and it is actually the CineGrey 3D. I think this is a much better material all around, even during the daytime. Minimal artefacting (only in very bright scenes and it’s minimal really).
> 
> The brightness drop off is much less obvious and more minimal. If you look for it, it’s there but it is not bad. In fact, you can watch this screen at extreme angles (West beyond 90 degrees) and still get a respectable image. You could not do that with the CineGrey 5D.
> 
> I personally had a Dark Energy Pulsar in 100” that had artefacts that are worse than the 3D and less than the 5D. It performed well for light rejection but the artefacts were distracting. It had to be sent back due to manufacturing issues and after having seen the latest CineGrey 3D material, I am going to switch to it in special order CinemaScope format.
> 
> I think stop obsessing about the sparklies With very very bright objects, guys. It happens even on high end screens and materials. The CineGrey 3D is a good material!!!


To get rid of the artifacts place the unit at a throw ratio of 1.9x or higher.

However, projectors like the JVC x9900 should be in a properly treated room, not use hackney solutions like ALR screens.


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## noob00224

Example with an Epson:



noob00224 said:


> Anyway here are some examples of an Epson TW6700 (HC3700 in the US), the previous generation from the HC3800. Mostly the same projector except for the HC3800 has 4K.
> Screen is Cinegrey 5D, but he does not say what the throw ratio is. If you eyeball it it looks to be ~350cm. With an 120" screen that would mean a throw ratio of ~1.32. Coincidentally the Epson's minimum throw ratio is 1.35x.
> 
> I can't tell if there is a hotspot or not. In some of the brightest pictures there seems to be a very slight one, but can't really tell. Impressive considering the throw ratio.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4N9kOWUUbr0
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MuOg9r0OC60
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yMa38i5W7cU
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abwAjQ-KQuo
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q-5zjn7YTrE
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DkyASn1lC4I





noob00224 said:


> Managed to capture the hotspot. The fourth video.
> This is the worst case scenario. As you can see most of the time it's invisible.


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## rcgsupra

Got mine about a week ago and am using it with a BenQ HT3050 that's right at the ragged edge of a 1.5 TR. This is my first "expensive" screen and I was a little nervous that the result weren't going to justify the cost. I gotta say, I should have done this a long time ago. 

I'm really impressed with the overall improved picture quality. I came from a cheap motorized white screen in a a walkout basement with no curtains and light grey walls with a white ceiling. I wasn't expecting there to be much of a difference between the two when completely dark, but the Cinegrey produces much better blacks and better color contrast to the point that it almost feels like I got an upgraded projector. During the daytime is a mixed bag. Overall it's an improvement, but it's not magic. When it's really bright outside darker images still start to get washed out. Sports will be completely watchable, which is what I'd be watching during that time anyway.

Where the ALR technology really shines is when there is still some ambient light, but it's not super sunny out (late afternoon/early evening). I notice almost no degradation in picture quality during this time.

It also looks cool on the wall. My wife says it looks like a giant TV. She's also impressed with the picture and she was a tough sell on buying this.

I might be getting a little bit of hot spotting, but honestly I wouldn't have noticed it if you guys didn't make me so paranoid about it. I was able to eliminate the majority of it with some fine tuning. I may also get a little bit of sparkle, but again, barely noticeable IMO.

Putting it together was a bit of a PITA. Its not difficult, just tedious. I could not for the life of me get the frame perfectly square. I eventually said "F" it, good enough. Same with the fabric. They put marks where the frame needs to line up on the fabric and state that's it's IMPERATIVE that the frame line up with the marks. Well this was also impossible. Eventually I got it as close as I could and decided to see what would happen. Turns out it still works just fine. So if you are putting one together, get it close but it doesn't have to be perfect.


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## noob00224

There's a Cinegrey 3D Acoustic Transparent version, with the same specifications as the regular 3D.

Mean Attenuation (db loss): -6.04 at 8k - 20khz

https://elitescreens.com/front/front/productdetail/product/483
https://elitescreens.com/images/dow...bles/ES_AcousticTransparentMaterials_Comp.pdf


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## ander77

Hello!

I am doubting if paint the wall where i project in grey colour, or try with an ALR screen. Meanwhile i decide, i get the opportunity to buy a Cinegray 3D at good price.

I am afraid about the throw ratio, i project a 97 inches image, with a distance of 3 metres, that's a TR of 1.4. Will i have hotspot or other problems with this distance?

My projector is an Acer VL7860.

Thanks!


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## noob00224

ander77 said:


> Hello!
> 
> I am doubting if paint the wall where i project in grey colour, or try with an ALR screen. Meanwhile i decide, i get the opportunity to buy a Cinegray 3D at good price.
> 
> I am afraid about the throw ratio, i project a 97 inches image, with a distance of 3 metres, that's a TR of 1.4. Will i have hotspot or other problems with this distance?
> 
> My projector is an Acer VL7860.
> 
> Thanks!


Yes, this is why I recommended paints. Check the previous pages, I posted some examples with a throw ratio of 1.5x with a DLP.

What partially contributes to hotspot is brightness uniformity. With these DLPs it's generally under 70%, which is not great.


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## ander77

It is so curious how these screens works!! It seems clear that i am not in condition to buy one...

The brightness uniformity of ACER VL7860 i think it is not bad.

Thanks.


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## noob00224

ander77 said:


> It is so curious how these screens works!! It seems clear that i am not in condition to buy one...
> 
> The brightness uniformity of ACER VL7860 i think it is not bad.
> 
> Thanks.


How do you know what the brightness uniformity on the Acer is? It hasn't been measured, or I could not find a review that did. You could do it with a colorimeter or a light meter. Divide the screen into 9 or more sectors and measure the difference. 









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## ander77

Read my post, i said "i think" it is not the same than say "i know"


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## noob00224

ander77 said:


> Read my post, i said "i think" it is not the same than say "i know"


You can't easily tell from looking at it.


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## sddp

Does anyone here know or have experience with Paint on Screen S1 or 3D4K and know how it would compare to Elite Screen Cinegrey 3D?
I have the Cinegrey 3D 150" 16:9, but %90 of all my films are scope so want to go 180" 2.35:1 but the DIY paint on screen route and would like some opinions

Thanks

PS: Completely dark light controlled room


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