# Remote only works at very close range



## pianoman41

My 5040 has been acting up lately and at first I thought it was the unit but now I suspect more of an IR issue. The unit will only respond to remote commands if the remote is at very close range (2 feet or less). It's not an ambient light issue (happens day or night), it's not behind a glass door, and I've tried it with both the original remote with fresh batteries and my Harmony 720 that I've been using without issue for several years (and has no issue with any other component).


What would cause the IR range to be so drastically reduced? The sensor doesn't appear to be blocked, dirty or damaged.


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## icecow

You might have hit em all, but I'll list everything I can think of for a sense of completion if nothing else:


.flourecent lights (try in pitch dark for 'hell of it'?)

.ir sensor bent out of position blocking direct line of sight (opened the case lately?)


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## Mikeyboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *icecow* /forum/post/18830005
> 
> 
> You might have hit em all, but I'll list everything I can think of for a sense of completion if nothing else:
> 
> 
> .failing ir sensor (hardware (more scattershot diagnosing, ug))
> 
> 
> 
> edit quicktip: you can sing whole songs in Starbucks if you are the only customer there.



I agree with icecows failing IR sensor. I have IR panels available for $39. Here how it is replaced http://home.comcast.net/~mikemenard/...lacement2.html


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## elorimer

Do you have an LCD tv and/or maybe enabled its auto brightness setting?


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## pianoman41




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikeyboy* /forum/post/18831195
> 
> 
> I agree with icecows failing IR sensor. I have IR panels available for $39. Here how it is replaced http://home.comcast.net/~mikemenard/...lacement2.html



I figured it could be that. I think a purchase might be in my future.


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## pianoman41




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *elorimer* /forum/post/18831882
> 
> 
> Do you have an LCD tv and/or maybe enabled its auto brightness setting?



Nope. I know my bedroom LCD TV interferes with remote IR operation for the first 30-40 seconds when it first fires up, but I've got an old school RPTV in my living room. Nothing has changed at all in my home theatre setup recently, so that's why I'm suspecting hardware problems more so than environmental ones.


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## pianoman41

Okay, any other suggestions? I ordered a replacement IR board from mikeyboy and just got around to installing it last night. No dice. It still does the same thing--the remote (either original or my Harmony) will only work from about 6 feet away. Anything further and the unit doesn't respond. While I had the unit open I cleaned all the dust bunnies out, triple checked all of the plug connections, tightened all the motherboard and PS screws, cleaned the fan, and made absolutely sure that nothing was blocking the IR receiver on the front. Everything appears normal. The *only* thing that was even remotely abnormal as I noticed there are a couple caps on the power supply that have "split" and have spewed some of their internals out. But the unit still works fine. I was curious if possibly the PS isn't regulating the voltage properly and that could be messing with the IR reception. But other than that, I have no idea what to try next.


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## Mikeyboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pianoman41* /forum/post/18891305
> 
> 
> Okay, any other suggestions? I ordered a replacement IR board from mikeyboy and just got around to installing it last night. No dice. It still does the same thing--the remote (either original or my Harmony) will only work from about 6 feet away. Anything further and the unit doesn't respond. While I had the unit open I cleaned all the dust bunnies out, triple checked all of the plug connections, tightened all the motherboard and PS screws, cleaned the fan, and made absolutely sure that nothing was blocking the IR receiver on the front. Everything appears normal. The *only* thing that was even remotely abnormal as I noticed there are a couple caps on the power supply that have "split" and have spewed some of their internals out. But the unit still works fine. I was curious if possibly the PS isn't regulating the voltage properly and that could be messing with the IR reception. But other than that, I have no idea what to try next.



Wow, the replacement panel didn't fix it. Sorry to hear it. You can return it for a refund.


It's worth a try taking the cover off and connecting the old IR panel to the motherboard, but this time let it hang in front of the front plastic panel instead of mounting it, to see if it responds to the remote better. This would eliminate the plastic IR receiver window or bent IR lead as possible causes for poor response.


I haven't run into a power supply causing such a problem. Usually a recorder will not output video at all, or will work intermittently with bad caps.


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## pianoman41




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Mikeyboy* /forum/post/18893586
> 
> 
> Wow, the replacement panel didn't fix it. Sorry to hear it. You can return it for a refund.
> 
> 
> It's worth a try taking the cover off and connecting the old IR panel to the motherboard, but this time let it hang in front of the front plastic panel instead of mounting it, to see if it responds to the remote better. This would eliminate the plastic IR receiver window or bent IR lead as possible causes for poor response.
> 
> 
> I haven't run into a power supply causing such a problem. Usually a recorder will not output video at all, or will work intermittently with bad caps.



Thanks for the refund offer, but I'll just hold onto the old one as a spare, just in case. Also, isn't the IR receiver window just a hole and the clear "dome" on the IR board the receiver? I don't have any plastic over the hole to speak of.


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## Murphy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pianoman41* /forum/post/18891305
> 
> 
> The *only* thing that was even remotely abnormal as I noticed there are a couple caps on the power supply that have "split" and have spewed some of their internals out.



Those caps need to be replaced ASAP before the caustic material that leaked out eats away the traces on the PC board. The top of an electrolytic capacitor should be flat. If it is bowed up, even if it hasn't split open yet, it needs to be replaced because it no longer has the correct value.


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## Mikeyboy




> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *pianoman41* /forum/post/18893867
> 
> 
> Thanks for the refund offer, but I'll just hold onto the old one as a spare, just in case. Also, isn't the IR receiver window just a hole and the clear "dome" on the IR board the receiver? I don't have any plastic over the hole to speak of.



I believe the plastic lens is part of the front cover. There isn't plastic on the IR receiver sensor.


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