# Silver Ticket Screen?



## Birdybog

Amazon has a Silver Ticket HDTV 16:9 120" Fixed Frame Projector Screen available at a very good price with excellent reviews but I can't find any reference to this screen anywhere in this forum. Is anyone here actually using one of these screens? I am building my multi-use basement and will be using a ceiling mounted BenQ W1070 projector. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.


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## Cirrusclouds

I am interested in this too!


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## mdd770


We bought this screen on Amazon based on the reviews and the needs of the size and format. It certainly delivers.


The build quality is excellent. There were no instructions! so warning...it ended up being no big deal.

There is a 4 step list on the Amazon description in the ad for it, listed in the several images attached to the ad. Also there is a high speed build video on you tube that you can follow for it, if you do a search for this screen. In the video there is a cross bar that the 120 inch model doesn't have, and in the video it seems to come in more sections. Maybe the manufacturer made it with solid top and bottom so there was no more need for a center brace.


When you put the clips in that hold the screen, there are little arrows there for guidance as to where to place them. Use them, BUT don't be afraid to move them slightly here and there, once you are stretching the screen around and anchoring it. They may need to move to match the anchor holes so there is no binding of the material. Don't worry. The surface is flawless in the end.


Anyway, it took 1hr and 10 mins to build, but if I had to do it again, it would take about 30 mins now that I know how.


Hanging on the wall was a snap. It has sliding hooks so you can move the whole screen left and right after hanging on wall studs with screws and a level.


The black borders are really nice, with black velvet to catch any spill-over and it looks very good on the wall.


The picture quality is stunning in our opinion. We are using the BenQ 1070 projector, (also I highly recommend it too), a completely blacked out theater room, and the combination is awesome.

I recommend Gamma be set to 2.8 on the 1070 to really get the blacks dialed in.  We immediately invited over some friends who are in the market for a screen, played a snowboarding Blu Ray from Alaska ("The Art of Flight") , and they immediately went home and ordered it. Highly recommend!

It looks really really good. No problem with colors either.  Very vivid and rich picture in our opinion.

Hope that helps.


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## Waterbird

Apparently they are currently out of stock of the 120" which is what I need. Any idea how to reach out to them and know if there will be any additional offerings on Amazon? Based on what I've seen I'm interested in this screen as well.


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## Birdybog

MDD770 - Thanks for the reply. I went ahead and bought one back in December. I just finished painting so I plan on putting it together this weekend. I will make sure I look at all the info you referenced.


Waterbird - Keep watching the site. I had the same thing happen then they came back available a few days later.


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## Socio

I was looking at these screens as well the Silver Ticket 106" Curved Frame 2.35:1 Projection Screen in particular, not much information on them but from the images on Amazon the curve looks fairly subtle. My projector can do 2.35:1 but does not have a polymorph lens not sure if it will work but is near $300 less than the non-curved 107 inch 2.35:1 Carada screen I was about to pull the trigger on, so tempted to try it.


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## Waterbird

Well for some reason I checked on the 120" this morning and it said 2 available so I pulled the trigger. At $270 (+free shipping with Prime!) I couldn't beat it. Worst case I send it back and be out some time. In my old house I had an 84" Carada that I absolutely loved. Was originally going down that track and decided to try a more inexpensive approach. Was thinking Jamestown and Elite but really wanted this one - luckily it became available. Can't wait!


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## pjb16

Just ordered a 92" based on the reviews on Amazon. Got my fingers crossed that I'll really like it when I get everything set up (hopefully before the super bowl).


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## cval44

I bought one of these about a month ago and could not be happier. The tension system works great and no waves or creases. Be careful putting the center bar in that was the hardest part and I almost messed up the whole screen doing so. (Leave space between the tabs to be able to maneuver the center rod.


I also emailed these guys and they were very quick to answer any question.


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## imbloodyskint


Silver Ticket Fixed Frame Assembly Video _by silverticketproducts_


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## comojoe

I just put together the 120" version. Didn't have a center piece to go across middle like that show in the video. Small mark on screen, so I will have to send back to get another one. Quality is good though and velvet wrapped frame is nice.


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## Waterbird

Finally got my 120" screen up. Very easy to assemble, didn't take very long. No wrinkles, screen tensioned out well. The picture is great! I HIGHLY recommend this screen. Good workmanship. Solid build. Again, great picture! Can't believe I was going to spend north of $1,000 when I got this for a fraction. Money well spent.


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## ShapS

pictures anyone?


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## sitehighyi

Was originally going down that track and decided to try a more inexpensive approach. Was thinking Jamestown and Elite but really wanted this one - luckily it became available. Can't wait!


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## sitehighyi

Was originally going down that track and decided to try a more inexpensive approach. Was thinking Jamestown and Elite but really wanted this one - luckily it became available. Can't wait!


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## Flatnate

Has anyone ever compared their acoustically transparent woven material to others on the market? Impressions?


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## smokarz

No pictures in a screen thread? Lol


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## merkaba

Yea...pictures and more info would be awesome from people who have purchased these.


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## merkaba

how do these screens stay tensioned? Is it velcro or buttons or something else?


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## ben_g99

I have the 112" fixed screen (16:9) and I love it. I was previously using a DIY custom spandex screen. 

Here's a good image to show how the screen stays tensioned.









As others have mentioned, it really is great quality stuff and easy to put together.

EDIT: MORE IMAGES


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## merkaba

thanks a lot man....looks nice!


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## smokarz

ben_g99 said:


> I have the 112" fixed screen (16:9) and I love it. I was previously using a DIY custom spandex screen.
> 
> Here's a good image to show how the screen stays tensioned.




Thanks for posting the pics ben_g99

I too am currently using a DIY spandex screen and looking to change. What are the differences you observed with this Silver Screen?

Edit: Looks like the price dropped recently? $250 shipped, with prime, for a 120" screen. This will be very hard to beat, even by DIY standards. Unless you're painting with a bucket of paint on your wall


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## smokarz

FYI.

A very nice review from a credible blogger, WITH measurements.

Now, I am really itching to try this screen out.

http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-projector-screen/


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## socal swagger

I have the opportunity to go bigger given the bigger iam buying. I have a 120 jamestown and posted for sale looking at 150 silver ticket thru amazon. Question now is how is the quality and ease of assembly of the ST. Unit


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## merkaba

socal swagger said:


> I have the opportunity to go bigger given the bigger iam buying. I have a 120 jamestown and posted for sale looking at 150 silver ticket thru amazon. Question now is how is the quality and ease of assembly of the ST. Unit


From everything I've read (click some links in this thread and look at amazon reviews) it's a very good quality screen and easy to setup (1 person can do it easily).


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## socal swagger

Wow forgive the spelling auto correct and thumb typing are horrible on my S5.

Regarding the ST. I might take the chance thru amazon. Iam torn between the st and the elite sable


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## Foos-Man

socal swagger said:


> Wow forgive the spelling auto correct and thumb typing are horrible on my S5.
> 
> Regarding the ST. I might take the chance thru amazon. Iam torn between the st and the elite sable


I ordered screen material samples of both the ST and Elite screens and they appear identical with my Benq W1070. Hard to tell on the small samples the uniformity, etc. ST material is thicker, while Elite a bit purer white versus a hint of gray tones in the ST. I can't decide either which one to buy! ST seems to be the same screen as what Monoprice sells and I'm huge Moniprice fan. Elite screen material got favorable reviews.


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## dabsabre

Foos-Man said:


> I ordered screen material samples of both the ST and Elite screens and they appear identical with my Benq W1070. Hard to tell on the small samples the uniformity, etc. ST material is thicker, while Elite a bit purer white versus a hint of gray tones in the ST. I can't decide either which one to buy! ST seems to be the same screen as what Monoprice sells and I'm huge Moniprice fan. Elite screen material got favorable reviews.


I contacted ST and they're out of samples at the moment. Is this weave visible from 10.5'


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## Foos-Man

dabsabre said:


> I contacted ST and they're out of samples at the moment. Is this weave visible from 10.5'


Material is pretty smooth, no noticeable weave even up close...it is more vinyl like than something like a woven material.


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## powersquad

Is Silver Ticket screen just as good as a Carada Brilliant White screen? Frame made of good quality? Price difference between the two brands is a fair bit.


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## Foos-Man

I ended up purchasing a Silver Ticket 120" screen and am very impressed. Only complaint is the rod system causes the screen to not sit flat/flush with the frame in the corners. The rod sits on top of the corner bracket screws which causes the rod to not quite sit flush in the corners...i.e- the screen pushes back slightly away from the frame in the corners. I would purchase it again. I haven't done any critical viewing yet, but what I've seen looks great. Projector is a Benq W1070. Easy to assemble. High quality materials and craftsmanship. Overall 9 out of 10, deducting 1 point due to the screen not sitting flat in the corners.


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## DrewB

Foos-Man said:


> I ended up purchasing a Silver Ticket 120" screen and am very impressed. Only complaint is the rod system causes the screen to not sit flat/flush with the frame in the corners. The rod sits on top of the corner bracket screws which causes the rod to not quite sit flush in the corners...i.e- the screen pushes back slightly away from the frame in the corners. I would purchase it again. I haven't done any critical viewing yet, but what I've seen looks great. Projector is a Benq W1070. Easy to assemble. High quality materials and craftsmanship. Overall 9 out of 10, deducting 1 point due to the screen not sitting flat in the corners.


Can you post a photo?


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## Nexgen76

DrewB said:


> Can you post a photo?


I order the ST yesterday with the grey screen...I will have it Friday i will post some pics & mite add a video to YouTube since i haven't seen any.


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## jayteez

the silver ticket screen is nice for the money, but I noticed a significant decrease in brightness from my elite screen when using 3d mode on the Epson 5030. ended up sending the ST screen back. it is a good deal for the money though.


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## Foos-Man

DrewB said:


> Can you post a photo?


I tried taking a picture, but honestly the gap is so subtle and you don't see it looking straight onto the screen that it is impossible to get a good picture. You have to press your head against the screen and look down into the corner. I will put up a test grid later to see if it's even noticeable from a distortion stand point. Take a look at post #20 in this thread by ben_g99. In the last 2 pictures, notice the black bracket in the corner and silver screws. For the screen to sit completely flat, the black poles need to sit flush against the aluminum frame. The black bracket and screws cause the pole to incline in the corner (they basically act as a ramp because they are higher than the aluminum frame). I would still buy this screen and in Xbox use and movie watching it is not noticable.


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## Nexgen76

Foos-Man said:


> I tried taking a picture, but honestly the gap is so subtle and you don't see it looking straight onto the screen that it is impossible to get a good picture. You have to press your head against the screen and look down into the corner. I will put up a test grid later to see if it's even noticeable from a distortion stand point. Take a look at post #20 in this thread by ben_g99. In the last 2 pictures, notice the black bracket in the corner and silver screws. For the screen to sit completely flat, the black poles need to sit flush against the aluminum frame. The black bracket and screws cause the pole to incline in the corner (they basically act as a ramp because they are higher than the aluminum frame). I would still buy this screen and in Xbox use and movie watching it is not noticable.


Not understanding why you would want the screen to sit flush on the frame so it can easily get scratched or cut by the metal frame...... It has zero effect in viewing & its not even viewable. The only reason you would know its there if you put the frame together...Just my 2 cents.


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## dabsabre

anyone grabbed one of their AT screens yet? impressions?


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## Foos-Man

Nexgen76 said:


> Not understanding why you would want the screen to sit flush on the frame so it can easily get scratched or cut by the metal frame...... It has zero effect in viewing & its not even viewable. The only reason you would know its there if you put the frame together...Just my 2 cents.


The reason you want the screen to sit flush on the frame is so the screen is flat. This screen is not flat in the corners as the rest of the screen sits flush to the frame, but not the corners. 

Having said this, it appears that the impact to viewing is indeed negligible. I put up a grid and cannot see any distortion. I am restating that I highly recommend this screen and would not let the slight lack of flatness in the corners impact one's purchasing decision. Overall the rod system does a great job of keeping the screen flat and taught and I don't have a single wrinkle.


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## Doradoguy

dabsabre said:


> anyone grabbed one of their AT screens yet? impressions?


Yep what he said. Curious myself


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## CaspianM

What is actual gain of this screen? Anyone?


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## cslye

Doradoguy said:


> Yep what he said. Curious myself





dabsabre said:


> anyone grabbed one of their AT screens yet? impressions?


I looked all over for this also and never found much. I do see their website recommends the same 10' min seating distance as XD has. 

I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a 138" on amazon and will report back. 

I am only afraid the 138 might be a bit to big for my 10ft seating distance. I had been looking a little smaller, but this was available.

Now to figure out projector distance for the ae8000 for this thing and get that hung.


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## Nexgen76

CaspianM said:


> What is actual gain of this screen? Anyone?


Which screen because i have the Grey screen & it's gain is 1.0 ?


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## ssbn733mt

cslye said:


> I looked all over for this also and never found much. I do see their website recommends the same 10' min seating distance as XD has.
> 
> I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a 138" on amazon and will report back.
> 
> I am only afraid the 138 might be a bit to big for my 10ft seating distance. I had been looking a little smaller, but this was available.
> 
> Now to figure out projector distance for the ae8000 for this thing and get that hung.


Look forward to your thoughts on this screen in your room. I'm looking at it too and my planned room is 12x18 dedicated theater


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## dropzone7

cslye said:


> I looked all over for this also and never found much. I do see their website recommends the same 10' min seating distance as XD has.
> 
> I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a 138" on amazon and will report back.
> 
> I am only afraid the 138 might be a bit to big for my 10ft seating distance. I had been looking a little smaller, but this was available.
> 
> Now to figure out projector distance for the ae8000 for this thing and get that hung.



Very curious to hear what you think. I have been trying to get a material sample for a while now but every time I check with them they say they are out of samples. The weave shown in the photos on Amazon's site look like some of the older DIY materials that others have used in the past. For the price I would be interested in the 138" curved AT screen but if the material isn't cut at an angle and doesn't measure up to at least 1.0 gain then I might have to pass.


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## tjtv

How often do these screens go in and out of stock on amazon? Was looking at the 120", but it's been out of stock for the last few days.


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## cval44

often, shoot themaybe an email they respond pretty quickly.


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## tjtv

I emailed them and they said they would be posted on amazon soon. Sure enough, I check again today and they are available.


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## BDUB619

Just ordered the Silver Ticket 106" screen from Amazon. I've been using a Carls DIY screen for the past year and while it's worked great, I prefer the framed screen of the ST and the spandex material over the Carls cloth. These fixed framed screens really do look like a huge LED mounted on the wall.

When ordering I noticed that Silver Ticket is discontinuing the 112", replaced with the 110". Just a heads-up for anyone on the fence, if you want the 112", you best order ASAP.

" STR-169112 Silver Ticket 112" Diagonal 16:9 HDTV (6 Piece Fixed Frame) Projector Screen White ... This model is discontinued and has been replaced by STR-169110 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PUQPFLS). "


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## biliam1982

I sent an email to Silver Ticket inquiring about the availability of their ALR Silver Material. This was their reply:

"Thanks for contacting us. The factory has let us know that we will not have any more stock of the screens (including the 150") with ambient light rejecting silver material until late February.  
 
 Please let me know if I can assist in any other way."


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## Mk3_wagen

Any pics? I'm interested in on of these in grey since my room isn't light controlled.


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## Mk3_wagen

I'm thinking about ordering a Silver Ticket 110" screen. My room is not light controlled. Should I automatically go with a grey screen?


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## acmeavs

Mk3_wagen said:


> I'm thinking about ordering a Silver Ticket 110" screen. My room is not light controlled. Should I automatically go with a grey screen?


Choosing a screen material really depends on a couple of things. Light control is definitely a factor, but other things play into the decision. Here are a few things to consider:

1. Type of material you watch (TV shows, movies, games, sports, etc) 
2. What time of the day you do most of your watching. (nighttime or daytime)
3. How much ambient light are you working with? Do you have the option to close blinds, drapes, etc?
4. Does your projector have a very high contrast ration or a low contrast ration? (How good are the blacks?)

If you do a lot of watching in the daytime, play a lot of games, or watch a lot of TV shows and sports, then you would be best suited for an ALR screen (Silver Ticket 1.5 gain)

If you do most of your watching at night time, play mostly movies or other high quality viewing, and have a low contrast projector, then a gray screen may be the better option (Silver Screen 1.0 gain). The gray would enhance the perceived contrast ratio, give an excellent viewing angle, and reduce the likely hood of hot spotting that the ALR screen would produce. 

Here is an excellent article for more information:

http://www.projectorreviews.com/articles-guides/how-do-i-choose-the-right-screen-for-my-projector/

Hope this helps.


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## Mk3_wagen

acmeavs said:


> Choosing a screen material really depends on a couple of things. Light control is definitely a factor, but other things play into the decision. Here are a few things to consider:
> 
> 1. Type of material you watch (TV shows, movies, games, sports, etc)
> 2. What time of the day you do most of your watching. (nighttime or daytime)
> 3. How much ambient light are you working with? Do you have the option to close blinds, drapes, etc?
> 4. Does your projector have a very high contrast ration or a low contrast ration? (How good are the blacks?)
> 
> If you do a lot of watching in the daytime, play a lot of games, or watch a lot of TV shows and sports, then you would be best suited for an ALR screen (Silver Ticket 1.5 gain)
> 
> If you do most of your watching at night time, play mostly movies or other high quality viewing, and have a low contrast projector, then a gray screen may be the better option (Silver Screen 1.0 gain). The gray would enhance the perceived contrast ratio, give an excellent viewing angle, and reduce the likely hood of hot spotting that the ALR screen would produce.
> 
> Here is an excellent article for more information:
> 
> http://www.projectorreviews.com/articles-guides/how-do-i-choose-the-right-screen-for-my-projector/
> 
> Hope this helps.


Since I work from home, I watch TV, sports, movies, and play games throughout the day. Here's a picture of how the projector looks on my grey walls. Projector I'm using now is a Sony VPL-HW40ES. The ALR screen is backordered for 3 weeks and I was hoping to order a screen today to use it this weekend for the Super Bowl. I was leaning towards grey, but I'm not sure if I'll be missing out on something compared to the matte white.


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## biliam1982

Mk3_wagen said:


> Since I work from home, I watch TV, sports, movies, and play games throughout the day. Here's a picture of how the projector looks on my grey walls. Projector I'm using now is a Sony VPL-HW40ES. The ALR screen is backordered for 3 weeks and I was hoping to order a screen today to use it this weekend for the Super Bowl. I was leaning towards grey, but I'm not sure if I'll be missing out on something compared to the matte white.


Your picture didn't show up. 

Also, that's ambitious to order a screen, get it shipped, and setup by game time.


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## acmeavs

Mk3_wagen said:


> Since I work from home, I watch TV, sports, movies, and play games throughout the day. Here's a picture of how the projector looks on my grey walls. Projector I'm using now is a Sony VPL-HW40ES. The ALR screen is backordered for 3 weeks and I was hoping to order a screen today to use it this weekend for the Super Bowl. I was leaning towards grey, but I'm not sure if I'll be missing out on something compared to the matte white.





biliam1982 said:


> Your picture didn't show up.
> 
> Also, that's ambitious to order a screen, get it shipped, and setup by game time.


I would have to agree. Buying a screen for the purpose of this upcoming weekend would be difficult. Plus, once you make your purchase, you will have to stick with that screen for every Superbowl in the future. It is best to figure out what would best suit your needs and wait till they have what you need in stock. By this time next year, you will have the best setup for the money.

In your setup, Sony 40ES (excellent contrast ratio) and daytime viewing, I think you would be pleasantly surprised with a 1.5 gain silver screen. The screen should enhance your viewing during the day and help with the brightness of the projector. Just keep in the mind that the viewing angles will be slightly limited and it may have slight hot-spotting. Nothing terrible, but all trade offs of ALR screens.

If you could resend that picture, it would be great to see your setup.


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## Mk3_wagen

biliam1982 said:


> Your picture didn't show up.
> 
> Also, that's ambitious to order a screen, get it shipped, and setup by game time.


Yeah, I know. I ended up ordering the Silver Ticket white matte in 110". I do have some light coming from the top of my arch window that directly hits the screen. I have watched a few movies, sports, and tv shows with a 120" projection. My main seating will be at 10-11' at most and my desk is about 16' feet away. I liked the 120" for movies, but did not like it for basketball games. I had a hard time keeping up with the fast back and forth action. 110" looks good at 10-11' and 16' to me. I also have some french doors on the side of my right speaker and I would've had to move it out more to accomodate the wider screen. It would've blocked one of the doors from opening.

I'll use this screen for a few months and I don't like it, I'll upgrade to something else. I paid $246 shipped with Saturday delivery so I won't be out too much money if I don't like it. Any screen should look way better than my dark grey wall.


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## Mk3_wagen

For those of you that got a screen that included 4 brackets, did you use all the brackets of did you just use the 2 that go on the top?


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## cslye

cslye said:


> I looked all over for this also and never found much. I do see their website recommends the same 10' min seating distance as XD has.
> 
> 
> 
> I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a 138" on amazon and will report back.
> 
> 
> 
> I am only afraid the 138 might be a bit to big for my 10ft seating distance. I had been looking a little smaller, but this was available.
> 
> 
> 
> Now to figure out projector distance for the ae8000 for this thing and get that hung.



So finally got time today to get this out of the box and up on the wall today. 

I am sitting at 12' and don't see any moiré. 

Like others have noted, the instructions are useless, you can toss those out. The overall make of the frame is pretty good. I did notice it wasn't completely firm in the middle when I was picking it up from the center without a screen. Once I hung it with a screen and on the included mount the problem went away. 

The screen was on a roll, didn't have any issues with creases etc. 

One unexpected item was the black screen backing that was included was a separate sheet which worked out well for me. I had painted everything behind the screen dark already so didn't need the backing. So I ended up using it to make covers for under the screen.


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## Nexgen76

Mk3_wagen said:


> For those of you that got a screen that included 4 brackets, did you use all the brackets of did you just use the 2 that go on the top?


I just used the two on top......Still hanging so far.


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## Mk3_wagen

Nexgen76 said:


> I just used the two on top......Still hanging so far.


We hung it up with the top 2 and feels very secure. I'll need to upgrade to the silver 1.5 gain screen later this year. The slightest ligjt washes out the picture. I would've waiting till they had it in stock, but I needed a screen for the super bowl.


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## Nexgen76

Mk3_wagen said:


> We hung it up with the top 2 and feels very secure. I'll need to upgrade to the silver 1.5 gain screen later this year. The slightest ligjt washes out the picture. I would've waiting till they had it in stock, but I needed a screen for the super bowl.



You wont be disappointed..........


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## cslye

Some had asked if it is cut at an angle on the at screen. I am not an expert on identifying this, but here are two photos of the weave on the bottom left and right corners of the screen. The black out of focus is the corner of the frame so you have a reference of square.


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## ctbrown

BDUB619 said:


> Just ordered the Silver Ticket 106" screen from Amazon. I've been using a Carls DIY screen for the past year and while it's worked great, I prefer the framed screen of the ST and the spandex material over the Carls cloth. These fixed framed screens really do look like a huge LED mounted on the wall.


I originally was considering going with a DIY Carls cloth screen, but the ST seems very appealing given the cost. 

Could you elaborate more on how the ST material compares to the Carls cloth?

Is the ST material spandex?


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## BDUB619

ctbrown said:


> I originally was considering going with a DIY Carls cloth screen, but the ST seems very appealing given the cost.
> 
> Could you elaborate more on how the ST material compares to the Carls cloth?
> 
> Is the ST material spandex?


You know, I typed spandex but according to Silver Ticket website it's a matte vinyl. 

My screen didn't make it for the weekend install and Super Bowl, will be delivered by Fed Ex today, so I'll take down the Carls and install the ST tonight (and will take pics).


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## BDUB619

Mk3_wagen said:


> We hung it up with the top 2 and feels very secure. I'll need to upgrade to the silver 1.5 gain screen later this year. The slightest ligjt washes out the picture. I would've waiting till they had it in stock, but I needed a screen for the super bowl.


How did the screen work out for Super Bowl? What are your impressions of the white Silver Ticket screen with the Sony HW40es? I wanted the 110" but it would have been too tight in my small game room so I opted for the 106". 

(Also, why are you selling your Sony HW40es? just curious...)


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## Mk3_wagen

BDUB619 said:


> How did the screen work out for Super Bowl? What are your impressions of the white Silver Ticket screen with the Sony HW40es? I wanted the 110" but it would have been too tight in my small game room so I opted for the 106".
> 
> (Also, why are you selling your Sony HW40es? just curious...)


The screen looks really good. I'll be changing it out for the silver 1.5 gain screen in a month or two since my room is not light controlled. The one I'm selling is an extra one.


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## BDUB619

Anyone got any tips on how to install the center bar brace? Building frame and screen were easy but this damn center bar just won't fit. Checked Youtube and all I found was a quick time video where the guy makes it look easy (it's not!)

Thanks in advance


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## Mk3_wagen

BDUB619 said:


> Anyone got any tips on how to install the center bar brace? Building frame and screen were easy but this damn center bar just won't fit. Checked Youtube and all I found was a quick time video where the guy makes it look easy (it's not!)
> 
> Thanks in advance


I just slid it in at an angle and then pulled it straight.


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## BDUB619

Mk3_wagen said:


> I just slid it in at an angle and then pulled it straight.


Did you have to unhook the screen when you did it? Or was everything fully assembled? I tried both options, couldn't get it to fit. 

. As you can see from the pics, the center bar is the same height as the sides but not in the middle. I don't want to force it because it's already ripped into the underside of the screen (thankfully not visible from the front). So, just a little frustrated. Will try and tackle it again tonight just wanted to check here if anyone had any tricks to getting it in there.

They make it look so easy lol

http://www.gfycat.com/DearestTanBeauceron


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## Mk3_wagen

BDUB619 said:


> Did you have to unhook the screen when you did it? Or was everything fully assembled? I tried both options, couldn't get it to fit.
> 
> . As you can see from the pics, the center bar is the same height as the sides but not in the middle. I don't want to force it because it's already ripped into the underside of the screen (thankfully not visible from the front). So, just a little frustrated. Will try and tackle it again tonight just wanted to check here if anyone had any tricks to getting it in there.
> 
> They make it look so easy lol
> 
> http://www.gfycat.com/DearestTanBeauceron


Have you tried loosening the screws that hold the joints together in the middle? Your screen defintely looks a little bowed in the middle. Mine was still a little bowed after I put the center piece in, but it's very hard to notice. I installed that piece after I assembled the screen.


----------



## BDUB619

Mk3_wagen said:


> Have you tried loosening the screws that hold the joints together in the middle? Your screen defintely looks a little bowed in the middle. Mine was still a little bowed after I put the center piece in, but it's very hard to notice. I installed that piece after I assembled the screen.


Haven't tried to loosen the middle joints, didn't think it would make much of a difference since that is pretty solid. But at this point I'm out of options, so may try that tonight! And my screen is definitely bowing in the middle just can't figure out why or how to fix it (that is what the center bracket is supposed to correct!).

I did loosen 2 of the corner brackets on the top of frame and even removed them in order to insert the bar into the frame and then tried to reattach but then I had problems attaching the screen. Probably why the instructions have installing the center bracket LAST.

I know it shouldn't be this difficult and I know exactly how it should fit in there, I just can't get it to fit (and it's driving me a little nuts lol)


----------



## tinyelvis

BDUB619 said:


> Haven't tried to loosen the middle joints, didn't think it would make much of a difference since that is pretty solid. But at this point I'm out of options, so may try that tonight! And my screen is definitely bowing in the middle just can't figure out why or how to fix it (that is what the center bracket is supposed to correct!).
> 
> I did loosen 2 of the corner brackets on the top of frame and even removed them in order to insert the bar into the frame and then tried to reattach but then I had problems attaching the screen. Probably why the instructions have installing the center bracket LAST.
> 
> I know it shouldn't be this difficult and I know exactly how it should fit in there, I just can't get it to fit (and it's driving me a little nuts lol)


Have you seen the support bar install demo video on Silver Ticket Products website? Not sure if its the same video you referred to above...


----------



## BDUB619

tinyelvis said:


> Have you seen the support bar install demo video on Silver Ticket Products website? Not sure if its the same video you referred to above...


Yes, thanks, this is the same one. I wish mine was that easy! 

I also noticed that his screen is not bowed inward in the middle as mine is, so it makes his inserting that bar a lot easier.

I'm going to try again tonight and will post my results.


----------



## ctbrown

BDUB619 said:


> Yes, thanks, this is the same one. I wish mine was that easy!
> 
> I also noticed that his screen is not bowed inward in the middle as mine is, so it makes his inserting that bar a lot easier.
> 
> I'm going to try again tonight and will post my results.


Dumb question, but is it possible that you mistakenly ended up with a support bar that was supposed to go with a larger screen? Is the correct length listed in the instructions?


----------



## BDUB619

Not a dumb question, I thought the same as well but the center brace is the same length as the side of the frame.

*UPDATE*: I was able to get the brace in place  Only thing I did differently was pull really hard on the center of the frame to make room to insert the bar. I think the night before I was being too careful and cautious as I didn't want to rip or damage the screen. So depending on how bowed your frame is, it'll take some elbow grease but pull it hard enough and you'll be able to insert the brace. Pics below. 

*SCREEN IMPRESSIONS:* Absolutely lovin' the screen. HUGE upgrade from my old Carls blackout cloth DIY screen. Blacks are now dark and inky, colors are brighter and have more pop and the overall image is very silky and glossy. Definitely a noticeable difference between the vinyl screen material of the Silver Ticket vs the fabric of the Carls. Even with the lights on I still get a nice clear picture with only a little washout. It really does look like a huge LED TV on my wall, very happy and highly recommend. Simply cannot get a better screen for the price.


----------



## Mk3_wagen

BDUB619 said:


> Not a dumb question, I thought the same as well but the center brace is the same length as the side of the frame.
> 
> *UPDATE*: I was able to get the brace in place  Only thing I did differently was pull really hard on the center of the frame to make room to insert the bar. I think the night before I was being too careful and cautious as I didn't want to rip or damage the screen. So depending on how bowed your frame is, it'll take some elbow grease but pull it hard enough and you'll be able to insert the brace. Pics below.
> 
> *SCREEN IMPRESSIONS:* Absolutely lovin' the screen. HUGE upgrade from my old Carls blackout cloth DIY screen. Blacks are now dark and inky, colors are brighter and have more pop and the overall image is very silky and glossy. Definitely a noticeable difference between the vinyl screen material of the Silver Ticket vs the fabric of the Carls. Even with the lights on I still get a nice clear picture with only a little washout. It really does look like a huge LED TV on my wall, very happy and highly recommend. Simply cannot get a better screen for the price.


Glad you got it figured out. I hope someone picks up a silver 1.5 gain screen soon and post a review. BTW, what game is that?


----------



## BDUB619

Mk3_wagen said:


> BTW, what game is that?


Forza Horizon 2 for Xbox One. My current favorite racing game lol


----------



## Spanglo

BDUB619 said:


> *SCREEN IMPRESSIONS:* Absolutely lovin' the screen. HUGE upgrade from my old Carls blackout cloth DIY screen. Blacks are now dark and inky, colors are brighter and have more pop and the overall image is very silky and glossy. Definitely a noticeable difference between the vinyl screen material of the Silver Ticket vs the fabric of the Carls. Even with the lights on I still get a nice clear picture with only a little washout. It really does look like a huge LED TV on my wall, very happy and highly recommend. Simply cannot get a better screen for the price.


What color screen did you get?


----------



## BDUB619

Spanglo said:


> What color screen did you get?


What's up Hapi?! 

Silver Ticket calls it "matte white" , 1.1 gain. Have yet to try Drive Club on it but will soon


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## Spanglo

BDUB619 said:


> What's up Hapi?!
> 
> Silver Ticket calls it "matte white" , 1.1 gain. Have yet to try Drive Club on it but will soon


Hmm... I have the grey one, and it's decent enough. Curious about silver tho. 

Wasn't going to comment on your questionable game choice 

Does anyone know if Silver Ticket will send samples of the different screens?


----------



## dropzone7

cslye said:


> So finally got time today to get this out of the box and up on the wall today.
> 
> I am sitting at 12' and don't see any moiré.
> 
> Like others have noted, the instructions are useless, you can toss those out. The overall make of the frame is pretty good. I did notice it wasn't completely firm in the middle when I was picking it up from the center without a screen. Once I hung it with a screen and on the included mount the problem went away.
> 
> The screen was on a roll, didn't have any issues with creases etc.
> 
> One unexpected item was the black screen backing that was included was a separate sheet which worked out well for me. I had painted everything behind the screen dark already so didn't need the backing. So I ended up using it to make covers for under the screen.
> 
> View attachment 515617
> View attachment 515625
> View attachment 515633
> View attachment 515641
> View attachment 515649
> View attachment 515657
> View attachment 515665
> View attachment 515673



Thanks for posting all the photos! I have been considering the curved version of this same size screen. I was wondering what that French cleat was for near the bottom of the screen? Was that for hanging up your black covers or did it support the screen in some way? I would expect to see one or two of these at the top to hang on but not the bottom. Also, I see a few waves or wrinkles in your screen surface. Do you think those can be pulled out somehow or does the screen surface not pull tight in those areas?


----------



## audio4me

Purchased and assembled this screen (White, 106") and it's really a classy and well built item. Excellent color, brightness and blending with my Optoma HD141X. Installing that center brace at the end is a _real _PITA but I was able to get it using all my might. 

Unfortunately, while setting up my projector for some testing I noticed 2 distinct black lines across the screen, only visible when the color White is projected on it and you're sitting right in front of it. Upon closer inspection you can barely see some sort of abrasion where the lines are. To the naked eye in normal light you can't see it, even if you know where they are. After the incredible effort it took to get the center bar in place - I was pretty disappointed. 

It was 9:45PM EST on Tuesday when I sent Silver Ticket and message through Amazon about this issue. Literally, 5 minutes later I had a response back apologizing for the defect and asking for some pics and a shipping address.

5 mins after I sent them pics and address, yep, they got back to me. They indicated this new screen would be visually inspected and shipped using 2 day priority. Unbelievable customer support so far!

I'll check back in once I receive and install the new screen but so far I'm very impressed with the overall construction and customer service.


----------



## BDUB619

audio4me said:


> Installing that center brace at the end is a _real _PITA but I was able to get it using all my might.


Glad I'm not the only one who had challenges with that damn center brace! lol

Sorry to hear about your screen defects but awesome news about how quick and proactive ST Customer Service is!


----------



## MrGoomba

just put my order in for a 120in. will post pics of the completed room when im done


----------



## cslye

dropzone7 said:


> . I was wondering what that French cleat was for near the bottom of the screen? Was that for hanging up your black covers or did it support the screen in some way? I would expect to see one or two of these at the top to hang on but not the bottom. Also, I see a few waves or wrinkles in your screen surface. Do you think those can be pulled out somehow or does the screen surface not pull tight in those areas?




Yes, the bottom of the screen rests on that so it has support at the top and bottom. 

The wrinkles I also noticed. They are more apparent in the photo then in person. I did manage to get a couple of them out just by pulling on the screen a bit in the area. I need to spend a bit more time. I think it is more related to the rods you slide in. The springs that hold the screen are all tight. Work on it this weekend and let ya know.


----------



## audio4me

Update to the screen issue I posted earlier:

Received new screen via USPS 2-day Priority, mounted again (much easier than the first time) and confirmed it was perfect with no issues what so ever. I've never experienced such responsive customer service before, with fast shipping to boot. A pleasure to deal with, really.

Now as far as the screen goes, I love it. Watched last night's Walking Dead premier on it and it was fantastic. Obviously not progressive scan content, but I've seen movies on the first screen and was very pleased as well, colors look great and everything blends very nicely, no signs of "texture" on the picture, no wrinkles or imperfections in the screen either. 

I'm thoroughly pleased and highly recommend not only the product, but the company.


----------



## mrcysco

anyone know of an affordable masking system that could be used with these screens? I emailed Silver Ticket and asked if they had any plans for a model similar to the Monoprice Multi Format screen and they said they do not.


----------



## daWill

Just ordered the 120" 1.1 gain matte white on amazon. Should have it for this weekend. It's replacing my 7.5 year old 106" 1.0 gain cinegray elite ezframe screen. Nothing wrong with the elite screen, I just wanted to go a little bigger in the new house. I have a 16ft throw for my sony hw50es and my seat distance is about 14-15'. I suspect I won't be able to do 3d at the full 120" since it was barely bright enough on the 106" but I can count how many 3d movies I have watched on 1 hand over the last 2 years I've had the hw50. I'm making considerations for 2d only as I've come to realize 3d adds no benefit and is actually detrimental to 90% of movies (my opinion).

I'll have some ambient light because it's an open gameroom to downstairs, but no direct sunlight hits the room when I have the curtains pulled. So I'm hoping the slight brightness drop from 1.0 106" to 1.1 120" won't be noticeable. If so I'll probably adjust how aggressive my iris is to compensate. 

I thought the 106" ezframe was a steal 7.5 years ago when I got it but the 120" silver ticket is 1/2 that price. So I'm curious to see how they stack up. Hopefully I'm not disappointed.


----------



## CWash150

daWill said:


> Just ordered the 120" 1.1 gain matte white on amazon. Should have it for this weekend. It's replacing my 7.5 year old 106" 1.0 gain cinegray elite ezframe screen. Nothing wrong with the elite screen, I just wanted to go a little bigger in the new house. I have a 16ft throw for my sony hw50es and my seat distance is about 14-15'. I suspect I won't be able to do 3d at the full 120" since it was barely bright enough on the 106" but I can count how many 3d movies I have watched on 1 hand over the last 2 years I've had the hw50. I'm making considerations for 2d only as I've come to realize 3d adds no benefit and is actually detrimental to 90% of movies (my opinion).
> 
> I'll have some ambient light because it's an open gameroom to downstairs, but no direct sunlight hits the room when I have the curtains pulled. So I'm hoping the slight brightness drop from 1.0 106" to 1.1 120" won't be noticeable. If so I'll probably adjust how aggressive my iris is to compensate.
> 
> I thought the 106" ezframe was a steal 7.5 years ago when I got it but the 120" silver ticket is 1/2 that price. So I'm curious to see how they stack up. Hopefully I'm not disappointed.




I started out with your 120" screen in matte white to go with my Epson Powerlite 2000. My living room had a lot of direct sunlight and the screen was very washed out in daylight, and since I felt I had room to go a little bigger I upgraded to the STR-169135-G Silver Ticket 135" with a grey screen. While I am happy with both screens, I think the white material made the colors a little brighter. Although the grey screen does show better with more ambient light. I have since added window treatments, a combination of blackout curtains and blinds, and have great viewing during any time of day or night. If I had to do the upgrade over again I would have gotten the bigger screen in the white material and just added window treatments. Best of luck to you, I am sure you will be pleased with your screen.


----------



## gramatik2013

CWash150 said:


> I started out with your 120" screen in matte white to go with my Epson Powerlite 2000. My living room had a lot of direct sunlight and the screen was very washed out in daylight, and since I felt I had room to go a little bigger I upgraded to the STR-169135-G Silver Ticket 135" with a grey screen. While I am happy with both screens, I think the white material made the colors a little brighter. Although the grey screen does show better with more ambient light. I have since added window treatments, a combination of blackout curtains and blinds, and have great viewing during any time of day or night. If I had to do the upgrade over again I would have gotten the bigger screen in the white material and just added window treatments. Best of luck to you, I am sure you will be pleased with your screen.


Increase in screen size was main cause of your perceived brightness decrease plus 1 vs 1.1 gain loss of gray vs white screen material. You may be pushing limits of this projector in your viewing environment. Using projector central calculator, at mid zoom we are talking 15fL. I just got Silver Ticket 112"/w gray material. Will be using a Epson Home Cinema 3000, a light cannon of a projector. Wish I could go with bigger screen but my setup is 'room challenged', gigest screen I could fit. 128" wide trapezoid shape bonus room over garage. Angled walls will reflect light even in total darkness, hence my decision to go with gray material. Arriving Saturday, will post impressions once its assembled.


----------



## CWash150

gramatik2013 said:


> Increase in screen size was main cause of your perceived brightness decrease plus 1 vs 1.1 gain loss of gray vs white screen material. You may be pushing limits of this projector in your viewing environment. Using projector central calculator, at mid zoom we are talking 15fL. I just got Silver Ticket 112"/w gray material. Will be using a Epson Home Cinema 3000, a light cannon of a projector. Wish I could go with bigger screen but my setup is 'room challenged', gigest screen I could fit. 128" wide trapezoid shape bonus room over garage. Angled walls will reflect light even in total darkness, hence my decision to go with gray material. Arriving Saturday, will post impressions once its assembled.


That sounds great, good luck! And you have given me a great excuse/reason to upgrade to the Epson 5030, its what I wanted originally but the price was way out of my range at the time. I also have a weird shaped room in that one of the walls is angled and the other is open at the top half, need to figure out how to place my surrounds to get better use of them.


----------



## Mk3_wagen

I wish they would make their screens with a zero edge style. I currently have their 110" matte white, but might upgrade to the grey material. Not sure if I'll go with another 110" or upsize to 120". Silver Ticket sent me 8"x11" samples in grey and the alr 1.5 gain screen, but I didn't really notice much of a difference. Probably just hard to tell with that sample size.


----------



## daWill

I got my 120" up this weekend and once hung, I can't tell much difference between it and my elite screen. The elite screen had a screen material that was more grey, but I wouldn't call the silver ticket screen material bright white. It's a dull white and I would have to have it side by side with my previous screen to notice the difference.

One thing I noticed right away though was the assembly and mounting of the silver ticket screen sucked compared to the elite. The way the tabs are done to stretch the screen and the 2 mounting brackets on top and bottom were a pain to get right. I still don't think my screen is perfectly level, but that's what legs on my projector are for . The elite screen was a much easier hang because it hangs on the wall via 4 top brackets. There is no need to line up top and bottom hooks. Thankfully I had my dad staying the weekend for other reasons and he helped me get it mounted. I'm not sure how I could have done it with just 1 person. The elite screen was easy solo. I'm assuming the 120" elite screen has a similar mounting mechanism to my 106, but maybe not?

Anyways, once the screen was on the wall, the biggest difference was the lack of the elite screen emblem on the black velvet border. Also as stated, my elite screen was dead on level where the silver screen is slightly off, and there is no way I'm going back to try to get it level with the pain it was to get it mounted properly. I have dark walls and after adjust the legs and lenshift on my projector the projected image has the same 1/2" slant over the entire screen width as the screen. I have to take a tape measure to notice the unlevelness, but it still bugs me that they didn't use a similar mounting mechanism as the elite screen. I don't think I would pay $300 more for that mounting mechanism, but I would have been upset had I not had a 2nd person to help me mount this beast.


----------



## biliam1982

Here's an update for anyone interested. I contacted Silver Ticket Screens again to see when they might get the ALR back in stock and here was their reply:



> Unfortunately due to recent dock worker strikes our shipment was blocked at the port for a while - we should be receiving this new shipment in very soon, so we will likely have new screens for purchase sometime in the beginning of March. Thanks for your patience.


Anyone know of recent dock strikes and where they were?


----------



## momswgn

biliam1982 said:


> Here's an update for anyone interested. I contacted Silver Ticket Screens again to see when they might get the ALR back in stock and here was their reply:
> 
> Anyone know of recent dock strikes and where they were?


Longshoremen along the West Coast. Been going on for awhile. Recently came to some sort of agreement with management.


----------



## biliam1982

momswgn said:


> Longshoremen along the West Coast. Been going on for awhile. Recently came to some sort of agreement with management.


Good to know, thx!

Just checked their website and was curious to find that none were in stock on theirs, but Amazon had three sizes available in the 2.35 AR. 

Here's hoping they'll get the 16:9 in stock soon, as this is the most cost effective option for ALR screens I've been able to find!


----------



## AMartin56

My Silver Ticket was delivered today. Saved a little by buying a used screen via Amazon. 

First the good news. It had obviously been opened (as listed) but was in excellent shape otherwise. The gray screen is a nice surface in a less than ideal room. And I actually like their tension bar system. 

But I hate the center support bar. I got it in but not without scratching the back of the screen near where the tension bars slide in (so no issue with front appearance). This seemed to be such a pain because the bottom seam in the frame where the bar goes was not flush so it would catch on the lip when trying to slide it into place. I wasn't able to get it completely straight but I guess it looks okay for such a cheap screen.


----------



## biliam1982

AMartin56 said:


> My Silver Ticket was delivered today. Saved a little by buying a used screen via Amazon.
> 
> First the good news. It had obviously been opened (as listed) but was in excellent shape otherwise. The gray screen is a nice surface in a less than ideal room. And I actually like their tension bar system.


Did you get the Gray surface of the ALR?

What's your room like, size, lighting, screen size, projector?


----------



## Skrill

AMartin56 said:


> My Silver Ticket was delivered today. Saved a little by buying a used screen via Amazon.
> 
> First the good news. It had obviously been opened (as listed) but was in excellent shape otherwise. The gray screen is a nice surface in a less than ideal room. And I actually like their tension bar system.
> 
> But I hate the center support bar. I got it in but not without scratching the back of the screen near where the tension bars slide in (so no issue with front appearance). This seemed to be such a pain because the bottom seam in the frame where the bar goes was not flush so it would catch on the lip when trying to slide it into place. I wasn't able to get it completely straight but I guess it looks okay for such a cheap screen.


I just bought a "used -acceptable" screen from Silver Ticket (though Amazon). It is a 135" 16:9 1.1 gain white screen. 

I emailed Steven @ Silver Ticket -- and he told me that these are their "refurbished" screens, are thoroughly inspected to have no visible defects from the front, and have a 60 day warranty (new has 90 day). For $240 shipped -- I am giving it a whirl. I did confirm that if there is a problem with the screen material, I can get replacement material sent (that is my biggest concern that the material is stained or otherwise non-uniform). 

I sure hope mine comes together easier than some of the other folks on this board.


----------



## AMartin56

Skrill said:


> I just bought a "used -acceptable" screen from Silver Ticker (though Amazon). It is a 135" 16:9 1.1 gain white screen.
> 
> I emailed Steven @ Silver Ticket -- and he told me that these are their "refurbished" screens, are thoroughly inspected to have no visible defects from the front, and have a 60 day warranty (new has 90 day). For $240 shipped -- I am giving it a whirl. I did confirm that if there is a problem with the screen material, I can get replacement material sent (that is my biggest concern that the material is stained or otherwise non-uniform).
> 
> I sure hope mine comes together easier than some of the other folks on this board.


I think you'll be fine. I ended up needing a c clamp to line up one of the frame seams prior to tightening the screws that secure it but there was no cosmetic damage and the screen surface was flawless. So not sure why it was returned but it was ultimately fine. And Silver Ticket responded quickly to my email to them.


----------



## Nalow

Assembled my 120" 1.78:1 screen last night. (I'd add some pictures, but they all turned out blurry)

This was my first-ever screen and screen-assembling experience. It was pretty straightforward with no real surprises.
The only difficult part was inserting the tension bar in the middle. I had to unscrew the "joint" that held each side together and un-snap the screen in a few areas to push the tension bar in. It continued to get in the way of the screen rods as well, so getting them back in their place over the snaps was not fun.
If that had gone differently, I'd have given the assembly a 1/10 difficulty. The tension bar install alone is enough to warrant this assembly as intermediate. It is VERY easy to scratch and scrape the back of the screen material doing this. There has got to be a better way to add tension to the middle of the screen.

All of that aside, the screen is nice. I have no real complaints about the way it looks. Haven't mounted it on the wall yet, but that process should be straightforward enough. Find studs, drill screw holes, hang. Will definitely need a helper to do that part.


----------



## AMartin56

My plot has thickened a bit and I can no longer recommend them. 


As I mentioned above I had a bit of trouble with my frame. Using a c-clamp I was able to get the frame reasonable straight but unfortunately 'the wife factor' is in play and she thinks it looks pretty tacky as is since there is still a bit of a gap when assembled. We both agreed that it might be best to go with a four piece frame without a middle seam. I requested a return authorization from Silver Ticket via Amazon and they approved one but it looks like I'm the hook for return shipping (at least until that can reimburse me...not sure how that is going to work). 


I understand it's a bit of a gray area (am I unsatisfied or is it a defective item?) but at most places it wouldn't matter. So at this point rather than throw good money for shipping after bad I'll probably just eat it and call it a day. Looks like about $40 to send it USPS due to the size and weight. On a screen I paid $150ish for. 


A bit of a shame since the design seems good and I imagine if it was straight that it would be a fine screen for the price. And their customer service was good up until I requested a refund. But there are plenty of places that will take care of you beyond that point so I'm going to find another vendor.


----------



## Nalow

AMartin56 said:


> My plot has thickened a bit and I can no longer recommend them.
> 
> 
> As I mentioned above I had a bit of trouble with my frame. Using a c-clamp I was able to get the frame reasonable straight but unfortunately 'the wife factor' is in play and she thinks it looks pretty tacky as is since there is still a bit of a gap when assembled. We both agreed that it might be best to go with a four piece frame without a middle seam. I requested a return authorization from Silver Ticket via Amazon and they approved one but it looks like I'm the hook for return shipping (at least until that can reimburse me...not sure how that is going to work).
> 
> 
> I understand it's a bit of a gray area (am I unsatisfied or is it a defective item?) but at most places it wouldn't matter. So at this point rather than throw good money for shipping after bad I'll probably just eat it and call it a day. Looks like about $40 to send it USPS due to the size and weight. On a screen I paid $150ish for.
> 
> 
> A bit of a shame since the design seems good and I imagine if it was straight that it would be a fine screen for the price. And their customer service was good up until I requested a refund. But there are plenty of places that will take care of you beyond that point so I'm going to find another vendor.


Sorry that it didn't work out for you. And I agree that a lot of places will be great until you request that dreaded refund. Happened to me when I wanted to send back some speakers I purchased from HTD. I had to press them several times before I actually received it.


----------



## Skrill

I received by refurb "used-acceptable" Silver Ticket 135 16:9 fixed frame 1.1 gain screen over the weekend. It basically appeared new -- although some the packaging showed signs opening and closing, retaping. Putting it together was straight forward until the part with the tension bar. Might was really not wanting to go in - so I had to use a rubber mallet to knock it into place (this is after I followed all of the suggestions on in your instructions and on your youtube channel, like taking the screen off a couple of the tabs, pulling on the frame, etc.). In the process it put a few small abrasions and tears in the screen material where the rods are and where the screen material was rubbing against the bar as I pounded it in -- but it is not visible from the front, but I does make me a bit concerned about the integrity of the screen. I emailed Steven @ Silver Ticket -- and he didn't think it would be anything to worry about. That said, it appears to look fine from the front and is a very drum tight screen (no wrinkles or creases at all).

However, the biggest issue I had with installation was the very basic wall mounting system the screen uses (basically you drive a screw into the stud -- and then the screw head fits into a keyhole bracket). I spent a lot of unnecessary time putting the screen up and taking it down to adjust and get the keyhole brackets on the screen positioned correctly to center the screen in my room. I believe they are supposed to slide -- but when the weight of the screen is on them -- they get very, very sticky. My old Visual Apex screen used a much better bracket hanging system that allows for extremely easy horizontal adjustments of the screen while it is on the wall. This is a product improvement that I would recommend ST look into for sure.


But its up now -- and looks good. With no setting changes to my Sony 55ES (other than zoom, lens shift and focus) -- the picture looks nice and plenty bright. I only watched an hour of TV on it last night -- so I haven't really fully evaluated the picture quality and uniformity yet, but it looks promising.

For $240 (that was the Amazon price for the "used acceptable" screen) -- it was a good purchase. 

Edit: Nevermind about the high-spotting on the screen. The mounting brackets are the thickest part of the screen -- which seems normal. All is good so far with my screen.


----------



## AMartin56

Nalow said:


> Sorry that it didn't work out for you. And I agree that a lot of places will be great until you request that dreaded refund. Happened to me when I wanted to send back some speakers I purchased from HTD. I had to press them several times before I actually received it.


Since my last post Silver Ticket agreed to send me a prepaid return waybill and it showed up as such in the Amazon system after their intervention. So despite the hassle I will say that THEY do mean well and will do what they can to help you. I may be singing a different tune if I never get my refund but so far so good. 


I think it would have been a fine screen for the money but I just got unlucky. And since the issue on MY screen involved straight seams where the top and bottom pieces meet and the resulting difficulty with the cross bar installation I'm going to try a4 piece frame design next. I just don't want to have to mess with anything similar on my next go around.


Monoprice had a 15% off sale this past weekend so I decided to order one of their 106 inch multi-format screens. A lot more $$$ than the Silver Ticket and I doubt the screen material will be all that different/better but the masking system was intriguing and the top and bottom ship as one piece. Would have been nice if it came in a 100 inch (since I'm very picky about selecting a sweet spot distance to sit at to balance 'in your face size' with perceived picture quality that can increase as you move further from the TV/screen) since I feel like I'll have to move my seating about a foot back from where it is now. But I'm sure I'll live.


----------



## BDUB619

I have a slight Moire pattern in the dead center of my screen . At first I thought it was just wrinkles from the screen being rolled up in the packaging but now a month later and the "stain" is still there. I may contact Silver Ticket about exchanging just the screen material for another if it continues to be distracting. I haven't noticed it on Bluray movies but I do see it when playing games (Forza5 and Horizon2), mainly on a white or bright background with the "camera" panning from left to right, then I see it, dead center. And now that I've seen it, I can't unsee it. Bummer.


----------



## biliam1982

For anyone waiting on the ALR material to come back in stock, here's the latest:



> Thanks for your patience. We have had some major unexpected delays in this shipment that pushed back delivery time significantly, but we have confirmation that our shipment with the 150" silver ALR screens on them will be arriving early next week, so they should be available for purchase sometime late next week (the week of the 16th).


I've also been trying to get them to send me screen samples. Anyone have any luck there?


----------



## dropzone7

biliam1982 said:


> For anyone waiting on the ALR material to come back in stock, here's the latest:
> 
> 
> 
> I've also been trying to get them to send me screen samples. Anyone have any luck there?


I have been trying to get a sample of the acoustically transparent material for months but they keep telling me they don't have any. I'm really interested in a 138" curved 2.35:1 screen but not without trying a sample first.


----------



## dropzone7

BDUB619 said:


> I have a slight Moire pattern in the dead center of my screen . At first I thought it was just wrinkles from the screen being rolled up in the packaging but now a month later and the "stain" is still there. I may contact Silver Ticket about exchanging just the screen material for another if it continues to be distracting. I haven't noticed it on Bluray movies but I do see it when playing games (Forza5 and Horizon2), mainly on a white or bright background with the "camera" panning from left to right, then I see it, dead center. And now that I've seen it, I can't unsee it. Bummer.


Which screen material is it? I had asked about this with their acoustically transparent material because other screen manufacturers cut the material at a 15 degree tilt I believe which is supposed to prevent the moire happening.


----------



## BDUB619

dropzone7 said:


> Which screen material is it? I had asked about this with their acoustically transparent material because other screen manufacturers cut the material at a 15 degree tilt I believe which is supposed to prevent the moire happening.


It's the matte-white material.

The pattern or "stain" is not noticeable anywhere else on the screen except dead center and it's only visible on a select few games I've played. It's not as much of a moire as it is a texture stain on the screen, almost like in the screen texture wasn't applied evenly in that area. I don't know how else to describe it.


----------



## biliam1982

BDUB619 said:


> It's the matte-white material.
> 
> The pattern or "stain" is not noticeable anywhere else on the screen except dead center and it's only visible on a select few games I've played. It's not as much of a moire as it is a texture stain on the screen, almost like in the screen texture wasn't applied evenly in that area. I don't know how else to describe it.


Have you tried moving the projector to see if it goes away?


----------



## dropzone7

BDUB619 said:


> It's the matte-white material.
> 
> The pattern or "stain" is not noticeable anywhere else on the screen except dead center and it's only visible on a select few games I've played. It's not as much of a moire as it is a texture stain on the screen, almost like in the screen texture wasn't applied evenly in that area. I don't know how else to describe it.


Try holding a white piece of paper against the screen in the location where you are seeing the "stain". If it's still there then it's probably not the screen. If it goes away then it is the screen.


----------



## BDUB619

biliam1982 said:


> Have you tried moving the projector to see if it goes away?


Pretty confident it's not the projector as it only happens on one source (xbox one) and it's only a couple games I've noticed it, not all. I have not noticed it on cable TV or bluray movies. I've played these same games on my previous screen and did not see this defect, so don't believe it's the games but we'll see.



dropzone7 said:


> Try holding a white piece of paper against the screen in the location where you are seeing the "stain". If it's still there then it's probably not the screen. If it goes away then it is the screen.


Great idea, will try that tonight. Thanks!


----------



## biliam1982

dropzone7 said:


> I have been trying to get a sample of the acoustically transparent material for months but they keep telling me they don't have any. I'm really interested in a 138" curved 2.35:1 screen but not without trying a sample first.


Just heard back from them. 



> We are currently out of stock of samples at the moment as well - more should be arriving with this incoming container.


So hopefully they'll have some soon to send out.


----------



## BiggNewt

I'm getting an Epson 8350 from a very generous person. Should I get the white or gray screen? I have complete lighting control in the theater but the room off to the side will occasionally have lights for entertaining guests. 

I do want the best possible blacks but also like a vibrant screen.


----------



## ben38

BiggNewt said:


> I'm getting an Epson 8350 from a very generous person. Should I get the white or gray screen? I have complete lighting control in the theater but the room off to the side will occasionally have lights for entertaining guests.
> 
> I do want the best possible blacks but also like a vibrant screen.


 If you can get the room very dark you should be fine with the white screen. When the room off to the side has the lights on, as long as the area around the screen is dark, you should still get a good picture. (Of course there will be some washout) Try projecting onto a white sheet first to get a general idea of how the picture looks before you decide on a white or grey screen.


----------



## tmas333

anyone try these with a w1070?


----------



## gnolivos

Im thinking of getting the AT (Acoustically Trsnsparent) version....

How would one 'hang' this screen if you need space for speakers behind? I don't have my speakers built into the wall, so I am thinking of hanging from the ceiling instead, and masking the hardware with black velvet curtain style etc...


----------



## turbobnl

Just recieve my silver ticket 120" matte white screen, very happy and affordable for some Who is on a budget. the company was great answering all my question, In a lightening fast manner, usually replied within a few hours. 

Ordered my screen on a Friday and recieved it on Monday. They wasted no time on getting it out the door and onto your front door step.

I have no experience on other screen and manufacture but I do know quality. For the price that this thing cost I was more then happy with it. When assembling the aluminum frame, I made sure all end was square with a square edge before tightening the screws. I followed their install video on how to assemble silver ticket screen and made it a breeze to install. Hanging on the was and getting it leveled was the tricky part for me, but other then that everything was fine.

So far so good, screen is affordable, and the customer service on point. Would buy again and recommend to others knowing they will take care of you in a professional manner.


----------



## gnolivos

Could somebody clarify this for me. I am considering the acoustically transparent screen. I am reading that there is a black backing material, that prevents light to bleed through and bounce back. I am assuming this backing needs to go behind the speakers, and not directly behind the screen material itself. So how exactly does the backing attach?!


----------



## Dominic Chan

gnolivos;3316655 said:


> I am assuming this backing needs to go behind the speakers, and not directly behind the screen material itself.


The black backing material is also acoustically transparent so can be placed directly behind the screen material if required.


----------



## Nalow

tmas333 said:


> anyone try these with a w1070?


I have the 120" 16:9 fixed-frame screen and the W1070. My viewing distance is between 10'-11'. I think it looks fantastic.

Anything you want to know in particular?


----------



## jch1

gnolivos said:


> Im thinking of getting the AT (Acoustically Trsnsparent) version....
> 
> How would one 'hang' this screen if you need space for speakers behind? I don't have my speakers built into the wall, so I am thinking of hanging from the ceiling instead, and masking the hardware with black velvet curtain style etc...


This post may give you an idea as to how you could mount an AT screen and place speakers behind:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...60-floating-fixed-projector-screen-mount.html

An alternative would be to simply use eye hooks mounted into ceiling joists coupled with chain and mount that to the top of the frame. From there, I was thinking about possibly using the idea in that link for the bottom portion of the screen to simply have it rest on. that should limit most movement.


----------



## gnolivos

So I ended up ordering the 110 inch acoustically transparent screen from silver ticket. This is to replace my 102 inch painted wall. It is also going to sit two feet closer to my viewing/seating position. Altogether this makes for a pretty big difference in perceived screen size. I will have my speakers sitting behind the screen which should also add a nicer more immersive effect.

Some info about this screen. The packaging was superb. Absolutely top-notch. The quality of the frame is outstanding, everything is very heavy duty. The screen is built like a tank. 

I did encounter a few issues. First of all there was a small stain on the screen, but this came out very easily with just a damp cloth. The bigger issue I am having is with tension system. It is different than what I've seen posted in this thread,, and it is a spring loaded tension system that holds the material together. The problem I am having is that it is not tight enough, and there are visible wrinkles at the top and bottom of the screen.

Silver ticket customer service has been outstanding, and readily available to help me through some of these issues and will now be sending me shorter tighter springs to help with this problem. It is unfortunate that they do not have or share a phone number, but at least they are very quick to respond to email. I will keep this thread updated and provide some perspective on overall screen quality and performance once I am able to get it all set up.


----------



## Dominic Chan

gnolivos said:


> The bigger issue I am having is with tension system. It is different than what I've seen posted in this thread,, and it is a spring loaded tension system that holds the material together.


 
Apparently all Silver Ticket Woven Acoustic screens, and all other larger screens, now use 3-1/4" or 4" frames together with the spring-loaded tension system.


----------



## gnolivos

Yeah the frame is huge... it's a monster really. VERY well built with strong beams.


----------



## jch1

gnolivos said:


> So I ended up ordering the 110 inch acoustically transparent screen from silver ticket. This is to replace my 102 inch painted wall. It is also going to sit two feet closer to my viewing/seating position. Altogether this makes for a pretty big difference in perceived screen size. I will have my speakers sitting behind the screen which should also add a nicer more immersive effect.
> 
> Some info about this screen. The packaging was superb. Absolutely top-notch. The quality of the frame is outstanding, everything is very heavy duty. The screen is built like a tank.
> 
> I did encounter a few issues. First of all there was a small stain on the screen, but this came out very easily with just a damp cloth. The bigger issue I am having is with tension system. It is different than what I've seen posted in this thread,, and it is a spring loaded tension system that holds the material together. The problem I am having is that it is not tight enough, and there are visible wrinkles at the top and bottom of the screen.
> 
> Silver ticket customer service has been outstanding, and readily available to help me through some of these issues and will now be sending me shorter tighter springs to help with this problem. It is unfortunate that they do not have or share a phone number, but at least they are very quick to respond to email. I will keep this thread updated and provide some perspective on overall screen quality and performance once I am able to get it all set up.
> View attachment 655657


How's the actual picture quality of the screen? And what about the acoustic transparency?


----------



## Skrill

I just want to update on my "refurb" 135" fixed frame from Silver Ticket.

I am very satisfied with the screen's actual performance (see above regarding my assembly experience). I have to say this screen easily matches or exceeds the performance of my prior fixed frame screen (a VAPEX 120"). Overall, I am very satified with my screen. And I have had no issues related to my screen being a "refurb", sold as "Used - Acceptable" by Silver Ticket on Amazon. 

Anyone has questions about the product -- let me know.


----------



## gnolivos

My first impressions on the acoustic 110" silver ticket screen. 

Very impressed. I have my Polk tower speakers and center channel right behind the screen. I am not an audiophile, but I cannot tell any difference in sound. Very nice. 

The screen lets light through. Faintly, but you can see it. This is of course expected. However the screen is 1.1 gain, and it shows. This looks brighter than my white painted wall. 

I am sitting at 11.5 feet distance and I cannot see the weave pattern even on white solid images. I need to get 2-3 feet closer to start to see it. 

Overall I am very impressed. The frame is built like a tank. And performance is good. At this price I was willing to live with minor quirks, but so far there are none. 

Screen tension want great but they are sending me tougher springs now. 
EDIT: The sent new springs FEDEX overnight. Now THAT'S customer service!

Any questions let me know.


----------



## gnolivos

I zoomed out my 1080p projector to fill only 1/4 screen. This was to simulate 4k resolution pixel density. When I do this, I can clearly see moire. Is this screen 4k compatible?


----------



## gnolivos

Well I'm going to have to take this statement back. I rearranged things a little bit and managed to get a more exact 1:4 zoom ratio on the projected screen. Once you get real close to the right ratio, the moire effect is gone. My guess is that this screen would have no problem with a 4K projector. 



gnolivos said:


> I zoomed out my 1080p projector to fill only 1/4 screen. This was to simulate 4k resolution pixel density. When I do this, I can clearly see moire. Is this screen 4k compatible?


----------



## gnolivos

Sorry for the back and forth... I have spend a couple days watching movies with the new AT screen, and have concluded that with my 1080p projector (Sanyo Z2000) there is a slight vertical moire across the entire image when properly framed. It is most noticeable on bright images and white solid colors. If I defocus the lens, the moire is gone. Also if I zoom out (larger image) the moire effect is also gone. Zooming in all the way (1/4 image size approx) there is no moire. It appears to me that the weave pattern is unfortunately such that when projecting a 1080p pixel structure that fills the 110 screen, the moire is apparent. This will be different with other screen sizes, and I estimate that a 130" screen may be fine with this weave (zooming out would be required, and may be enough to eliminate moire according to my tests).

Net, if you are bothered by a fine moire, avoid this screen at 110" diagonal. Maybe another projector would fix? I dont know.

Attached pic shows Moire. Left side has blank paper. Right is weave.


----------



## talon95

gnolivos said:


> The screen lets light through. Faintly, but you can see it. This is of course expected. However the screen is 1.1 gain, and it shows. This looks brighter than my white painted wall.


Did you compare then together? What paint did you use for your old screen? This is one question I've had vs. a painted screen. Mine is painted with Valspar flat ultra white.


----------



## TheaterChad

Wondering if anyone has tried the 1.5 gain silver material, would be interesting to hear some feedback


----------



## Dominic Chan

gnolivos said:


> Maybe another projector would fix? I dont know.


Does it make any difference if you move the projector to a different distance and re-zoom to fit?


----------



## Dominic Chan

gnolivos said:


> Attached pic shows Moire. Left side has blank paper. Right is weave.


The weave seems _a lot _dimmer. Hard to believe it has 1.1 gain.


----------



## gnolivos

Dominic Chan said:


> Does it make any difference if you move the projector to a different distance and re-zoom to fit?



I didn't try doing this, but common sense would tell me that even if I do that, the projected pixel pattern will be identical, and the issues will remain.

I don't have a practical way of testing this


----------



## gnolivos

Dominic Chan said:


> The weave seems _a lot _dimmer. Hard to believe it has 1.1 gain.



The paper definitely reflects more light than the screen. I think your assumption here is that paper is 1.0 gain,I don't think that's true. 
I would say overall the screen reflects more light than my flat Matte white wall that I had before. It really is a decently bright screen, no problems there whatsoever


----------



## Dominic Chan

gnolivos said:


> The paper definitely reflects more light than the screen. I think your assumption here is that paper is 1.0 gain,I don't think that's true.


According to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Visual_appearance
"Plain white paper for photocopiers or printers is a good example for a Lambertian diffuse reflector", which would mean that the gain cannot exceed 1.0 - unless it contains optical brightening agents _and_ the projector lamp emits significant UV to activate the OBAs.


----------



## Soul_Reaper_SKN

Is the AT screen 1.0 or 1.1 gain ?


----------



## BDUB619

My theater room is all blacked out (black walls, carpet, ceiling) and I bought the Cine-white ST screen. I wonder if adding an ND filter would help cut down on the moire/wrinkles in the dead center of my screen? Anyone else using an ND filter?


----------



## Dominic Chan

BDUB619 said:


> My theater room is all blacked out (black walls, carpet, ceiling) and I bought the Cine-white ST screen. I wonder if adding an ND filter would help cut down on the moire/wrinkles in the dead center of my screen? Anyone else using an ND filter?


Are you getting moire pattern on the "regular" (non Acoustic Transparent) screen? It shouldn't happen since it's not a weave material.


----------



## BDUB619

Dominic Chan said:


> Are you getting moire pattern on the "regular" (non Acoustic Transparent) screen? It should happen since it's not a weave material.


Yes, just the regular, cine-white screen. 

*STR-169106 Silver Ticket 106" Diagonal 16:9 HDTV (6 Piece Fixed Frame) Projector Screen White Material*


----------



## Dominic Chan

BDUB619 said:


> Yes, just the regular, cine-white screen.
> 
> *STR-169106 Silver Ticket 106" Diagonal 16:9 HDTV (6 Piece Fixed Frame) Projector Screen White Material*


Can you please post some pictures of the pattern? I'm really curious.


----------



## ChadS13TDI

Just got my Silver Ticket 120" screen assembled last night without much drama. I felt the assembly went smoother than the actual hanging of the screen. The tabs that mount to the wall do not slide well at all so we had to move them and re hang it a few times to get it centered. I also seem to struggle with getting things level on the first try so had to do that over too haha. All in all, first impressions I'm happy with the screen and what a great value it is. seems well made. The center bar wasn't to bad either, I watched a youtube video of some guys doing it and a little force and a small hammer helped tap it into place.


Now to get the PJ installed.


screen by ChadS99SVT, on Flickr


----------



## russelms

Just picked up 120" 16:9 AT as refurbished on amazon for $215, psyched goes with a hw40es.


----------



## thenuke

I've landed on purchasing an Epson 3500 projector that will serve two purposes. One, to have backyard movie nights with the kids and neighbors. Movies would likely start before dark, but not have any direct light on the screen, just that low glow of dusk. Movies would finish well after dark. Two, to hang it in our finished garage for storage and inclement weather viewings. This would be a much more light-controlled environment, but still not expected to perform like a dedicated theater room. 

After doing a lot of research I'm interested in the "STR-169150-S Silver Ticket 150" Diagonal 16:9 HDTV (6 Piece Fixed Frame) Projector Screen Ambient Light Rejecting Silver-Grey Material for 2D and 3D" version of the Silver Ticket screen. Does that seem like a good fit for my application based on your experience, or am I barking up the wrong tree?

Thanks!


----------



## Dominic Chan

thenuke said:


> After doing a lot of research I'm interested in the "STR-169150-S Silver Ticket 150" Diagonal 16:9 HDTV (6 Piece Fixed Frame) Projector Screen Ambient Light Rejecting Silver-Grey Material for 2D and 3D" version of the Silver Ticket screen. Does that seem like a good fit for my application based on your experience, or am I barking up the wrong tree?


If you plan to use it in the backyard, I wouldn't go with a fixed frame screen. They are meant to be installed semi-permanently. A pull-down screen would make more sense.


----------



## ChadS13TDI

I've seen several people that have those big blowup screens too. Those se common in outdoor settings. Maybe look into those as well.


----------



## thenuke

Dominic Chan said:


> If you plan to use it in the backyard, I wouldn't go with a fixed frame screen. They are meant to be installed semi-permanently. A pull-down screen would make more sense.





ChadS13TDI said:


> I've seen several people that have those big blowup screens too. Those se common in outdoor settings. Maybe look into those as well.


Thanks for the feedback. I was planning on installing some hangers in the garage that would allow me to quickly take it up and down from the wall. In the back yard I was planning on sinking some tubes into the ground and making a metal frame that could be slid into place for movie time. 

Why go through that much work? I guess I don't see any portable screens that also produce image quality as high as the Elite or Silver Ticket fixed-frames. Maybe I'm wrong...


----------



## ChadS13TDI

thenuke said:


> Dominic Chan said:
> 
> 
> 
> If you plan to use it in the backyard, I wouldn't go with a fixed frame screen. They are meant to be installed semi-permanently. A pull-down screen would make more sense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ChadS13TDI said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen several people that have those big blowup screens too. Those se common in outdoor settings. Maybe look into those as well.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks for the feedback. I was planning on installing some hangers in the garage that would allow me to quickly take it up and down from the wall. In the back yard I was planning on sinking some tubes into the ground and making a metal frame that could be slid into place for movie time.
> 
> Why go through that much work? I guess I don't see any portable screens that also produce image quality as high as the Elite or Silver Ticket fixed-frames. Maybe I'm wrong...
Click to expand...

You're probably correct. Everyone has a different objective. If it's me I want it as simple as possible and I think blow up offers this. I'm not expecting a high end crisp theater experience outside. It's likely more for the kids than the adults. I'm busy socializing having a few drinks and watching the movie off and on. 

If you've got a dedicated location like it sounds like you might. I could see building a spot to hook up the fixed screen easily. Making for easy transition from the garage and yard. I don't think there is a perfect answer here.


----------



## jschwartz

I am looking at a Silver Ticket acoustically transparent screen for the new theater buildout, but I'm a bit concerned about the drastic change from my old HighPower screen.

Could I trouble any owners of the ST Acoustic screen to post some pictures of the screen against other materials (screen materials or white surfaces I could use as reference) so I could get some kind of sense what I would be getting into? I saw one a page back, but it was against a solid surface, not a picture from a movie.

Thanks!


----------



## sgibson

Foos-Man said:


> I ended up purchasing a Silver Ticket 120" screen and am very impressed. Only complaint is the rod system causes the screen to not sit flat/flush with the frame in the corners. The rod sits on top of the corner bracket screws which causes the rod to not quite sit flush in the corners...i.e- the screen pushes back slightly away from the frame in the corners. I would purchase it again. I haven't done any critical viewing yet, but what I've seen looks great. Projector is a Benq W1070. Easy to assemble. High quality materials and craftsmanship. Overall 9 out of 10, deducting 1 point due to the screen not sitting flat in the corners.



Hi All,
Shopping for a new 92" fixed wall screen, I came across this review: 
http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-projector-screen/
Found it at Amazon.com and read good reviews. So then I thought...avsforums and found 
the Silver Screen Forum. Thanks Foos-Man, now I have a good place to start making my 
choice. 
So, I ordered one to replace old diy 92" screen with Silver Ticket STR-16992-G. Arrived via 
2-day FedEx from the Big River. Box was in great shape, all contents were well-packed and 
secured. Build quality of the Frame, Screen and Hardware is excellent fit n' finish. (After 
assembly there were a few spare parts left.)
My Silver Ticket is 92" diag. and is Gray color with 1.0 gain. 12 feet from main viewing area. 
I chose Gray to enhance contrast\blacks and with my Optoma HD20, it does so much better than the 
diy Parkland Plastic PlasTex panel screen. Colors are more vivid too, when viewed in totally 
dark theater area. 
Now to the fun. All parts were present and assembly went smooth, except when it came to 
inserting the crossbar. Following the Silver Ticket Center Bar Video 
(http://www.silverticketproducts.com/support/product/videos), I was able to install the Bar. 
Even so, with 2-pins removed the fabric is fairly taunt. It required some careful 
manipulating and using a hammer to carefully coax it in, first one side than the other. Working alone, 
it helps to place one side against something to keep it from moving. Placing something to 
rest your knee on the metal frame helps to hold it in place. CAUTION! Don't rest on the 
screen material. I did install all four mounting brackets into place, but mounted the screen 
using only the 2- top brackets. It lies perfectly flat against the wall. This is an excellent 
screen at a very reasonable price. 
Regards,
sgibson


----------



## gigging

Hi guys,

Quick question. Interested in a fixed screen, but I'm wondering how the screen fits in to the corners of the frame. In the video it doesn't appear to be flat.


----------



## Dominic Chan

gigging said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> Quick question. Interested in a fixed screen, but I'm wondering how the screen fits in to the corners of the frame. In the video it doesn't appear to be flat.


 
Post #31 mentioned that it's not flat.


----------



## sgibson

Dominic Chan said:


> Post [URL="http://www.avsforum.com/forum/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=31"]#31 mentioned that it's not flat.


 
Setup Silver Ticket 92 in. 1.0 gain Gray the other day. Impressed with build/viewing quality.
I wasn't aware of the corner issue till after reading Dominic Chan's post pointing to earlier mention by FOSS MAN-Post #31 . So here's a close-up photo of mine and it's typical on all 4 corners.
In spite of that, not noticable in viewing from 12 ft. Hope they find a way to perfect the raised corner issue for future buyers.
Still, I think it is a great buy at a very reasonable price,
sgibson[/URL]


----------



## Dominic Chan

sgibson said:


> So here's a close-up photo of mine and it's typical on all 4 corners.
> In spite of that, not noticable in viewing from 12 ft. Hope they find a way to perfect the raised corner issue for future buyers.


To help put things in perspective, what's the approximate width of the frame you're showing in that picture? Judging from the screen texture, it seems to be just an inch or two.


----------



## sgibson

Dominic Chan said:


> To help put things in perspective, what's the approximate width of the frame you're showing in that picture? Judging from the screen texture, it seems to be just an inch or two.





My measurements agree with Mfgs. specs: 1-1/4" thick outer and 1/2" against screen x 2-3/8" total width


----------



## Dominic Chan

sgibson said:


> My measurements agree with Mfgs. specs: 1-1/4" thick outer and 1/2" against screen x 2-3/8" total width


By "width", I was actually referring to the horizontal dimension of the _picture_, which is really the "length" of the horizontal piece

I didn't realize that they publish the amount of "lift".


----------



## gnolivos

My Tensioning system is based on rod + springs. I have no such problem... what tensioning system is used on these?


----------



## Dominic Chan

gnolivos said:


> My Tensioning system is based on rod + springs. I have no such problem... what tensioning system is used on these?


The AT screens and the large screens use rods+springs; the other ST screens use only rods.


----------



## sgibson

Dominic Chan said:


> By "width", I was actually referring to the horizontal dimension of the _picture_, which is really the "length" of the horizontal piece
> 
> I didn't realize that they publish the amount of "lift".





Dominic Chan,
Sorry if I wasn't clear.
My drawing shows a cross-section that is typical at all four corners of the Screen. The "lift" mentioned is my description. The Silver Ticket STR-16992-G framed display image is 92" diag. x 45" high x 80" wide. 
Regards,
sgibson


----------



## Dominic Chan

sgibson said:


> Dominic Chan,
> Sorry if I wasn't clear.
> My drawing shows a cross-section that is typical at all four corners of the Screen. The "lift" mentioned is my description. The Silver Ticket STR-16992-G framed display image is 92" diag. x 45" high x 80" wide.


Thanks for the reply but I still haven't got the answer to my question
Your picture is 752x463 pixel. My question is - for that portion of the frame shown in the picture, what are the physical dimension (in inches), e.g., 1"x1.5", or 3"x4".

I just want to know how small or how large that lift is, although the specification you posted gave me some idea already.


----------



## Foos-Man

Dominic Chan said:


> Thanks for the reply but I still haven't got the answer to my question
> Your picture is 752x463 pixel. My question is - for that portion of the frame shown in the picture, what are the physical dimension (in inches), e.g., 1"x1.5", or 3"x4".
> 
> I just want to know how small or how large that lift is, although the specification you posted gave me some idea already.


Mine flattened a little over time, but seriously it has no noticeable impact. I put up a full test grid and see no distortion at all.


----------



## russelms

i received my refurbished 120" AT 16:9 screen from SilverTicket and it is just amazing, loving it. I will post pictures eventually.


----------



## BDUB619

sgibson said:


> Setup Silver Ticket 92 in. 1.0 gain Gray the other day. Impressed with build/viewing quality.
> I wasn't aware of the corner issue till after reading Dominic Chan's post pointing to earlier mention by FOSS MAN-Post #31 . So here's a close-up photo of mine and it's typical on all 4 corners.
> In spite of that, not noticable in viewing from 12 ft. Hope they find a way to perfect the raised corner issue for future buyers.
> Still, I think it is a great buy at a very reasonable price,
> sgibson


You can easily fix this. Just tuck in the tension rods better on the backside corners and it will flatten out and make it flush with the frame.

(Can barely see the frame in my blacked out room)


----------



## bpassman

*ST 158" Curved 2.35:1, Anyone?*

Hey! I'm looking to upgrade from a Carada 110" & Epson 8350 to the ST 158" Curved 2.35:1 AT screen & JVC X500R. Has anyone tried a Silver Ticket curved model yet that can post some pics?


----------



## Mk3_wagen

I wish these guys would make a zero edge screen.


----------



## Swolephile

Silver Ticket is now offering silver material screens up to 110". It is comparable to Elite Screens' Cinegrey 5D.


----------



## kevinnho

Nalow said:


> I have the 120" 16:9 fixed-frame screen and the W1070. My viewing distance is between 10'-11'. I think it looks fantastic.
> 
> Anything you want to know in particular?


I'm looking to upgrade from Optoma HD65 & 92" screen to BenQ W1070 with Silver Ticket 120" screen as well. How do you like the picture quality? My budget is $1000 - $1500 for the new setup.


----------



## Sailendra Wadhwani

is Silver Ticket Screens available in the UK?

Sail


----------



## BDUB619

*Stain Update:*

For those who have seen my posts in here regarding the light "stain" on my Silver Ticket screen material, here's an update:

After a couple months of watching it, cleaning the screen and trying to reduce the stain, I ended up contacting Silver Ticket to see what I could do. From the start they were very courteous and helpful. After trying some remedies that didn't fix, I sent them a pic of the stain, they confirmed what I saw and sent me a replacement screen material overnight. I installed the new screen this weekend and happy to report it's stain and moire pattern free! Could not be happier with this screen, Silver Ticket and their fast and fantastic customer service!


----------



## Swolephile

I received my Silver Ticket 110" screen with silver ambient light rejecting material today. They just started carrying the silver material last week. 

I will come back with pics and my impressions of it tonight after I assemble the screen and hang it up. Though I really wish it came fully assembled. I'm also curious about their curved screens however no one has commented on one yet. I'm wondering if they are much harder to assemble.


----------



## Swolephile

Ok here I go. I began assembling this screen at 11:30pm. I did not finish until 4:30 this morning. The design is very simple and the directions were written decently however there needs to be more pictures to make the assembly process quicker and smoother.

The metal rods for the screen were an absolute pain in the ass. They kept getting stuck midway through the material and I had to force them all the way through which resulted in some minor tears on the mounting portion of this material. Thankfully you can't see them from the front.

There were some misaligned holes which delayed my assembly. And mounting the the material on to the tensioners was another blunder. The material's mounting holes was not big enough for the tensioners to go through so I had to cut the mounting holes bigger with a knife.

Mounting the screen was easy due to the sliding mounting hooks which are very forgiving. So even if the nails are a little too far to the left or right, you can slide the mounting brackets over either direction to accommodate.

When first using the screen, my picture was washed out with too much brightness and contrast. After recalibrating my projector's settings all I can say is WOW! This picture looks great with a ceiling fan's lights on, ceiling lights, floor lamp, light coming from adjacent room, lights on dimmer, and in a completely dark room.

I am completely awestruck by what I'm seeing. Picture quality is comparable to my previous Samsung 60" TV with the lights on in my living room.

I was using a black diamond 92" screen with the .8 gain. The picture Im seeing now is better in ambient light than what I was getting with the older model Black Diamond.

I am in awe that I only paid $399 for a 110" screen with this material. Looks just like a led TV now with the lights on. I HIGHLY recommend this product.

First pic is with ceiling fan light, floor lamp, side light from adjacent bedroom, and kitchen on.

Second pic is with floor lamp and rear ceiling lights on,

Third pic is complete darkness


----------



## Dominic Chan

Swolephile said:


> The metal rods for the screen were an absolute pain in the ass. They kept getting stuck midway through the material and I had to force them all the way through which resulted in some minor tears on the mounting portion of this material.


Thanks for posting the pictures. These are the first ones I've seen of the Ambient Light Rejecting Silver screen from Silver Ticket, and I must agree they look amazing, especially when looking at the wall outside the screen area in the first picture. Do you notice any hotspotting or "sparlies"?

As for the assembly, yesterday I just assembled a 115" 2.35 matte white screen myself, and can share some hints based on my experience:
The tensioning rod does have a tendency to get caught in the material pocket, but if your pull the material taut in the direction of the rod, the rod should slide in readily. Note that this requires having enough working space around the screen to be able to insert the rods "straight" rather than at an angle.



> There were some misaligned holes which delayed my assembly.


The "arrow stickers" on the frame indicate the_ approximate _locations for the lugs. The "proper" way is to slide the plastic lugs to align them with the holes in the material, not with the arrow stickers.



> And mounting the the material on to the tensioners was another blunder. The material's mounting holes was not big enough for the tensioners to go through so I had to cut the mounting holes bigger with a knife.


The holes are indeed smaller than the lugs, but there's no need to enlarge them. They will expand when you press them over the lugs to provide a snug fit.


----------



## kevinnho

Swolephile- where did you get your screen? Is this different than the amazon's grey material? They are selling the 120" for $299.
Btw- what projector are you using?


----------



## Swolephile

kevinnho said:


> Swolephile- where did you get your screen? Is this different than the amazon's grey material? They are selling the 120" for $299.
> Btw- what projector are you using?


Yeah these are different than their standard grey material. This is their silver material which is lighter with a bit more gain. I purchased mine from their website since it was not available anywhere else at the time.

They are now selling on Amazon. Any Silver Ticket Screen number with the letter "S" at the end means the listing is for their new ambient rejecting silver material which is what I have.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PUWQH00/ref=mp_s_a_1_69?qid=1432742286&sr=8-69&pi=AC_SX110_SY165&keywords=silver+ticket+screen


I'm using a LG PF-1500 led projector as a TV replacement/home theater projector. Its doing a great job at both duties. Since I never have to worry about replacing the bulb, I use it all evening for viewing shows and movies.


----------



## kevinnho

Swolephile said:


> Yeah these are different than their standard grey material. This is their silver material which is lighter with a bit more gain. I purchased mine from their website since it was not available anywhere else at the time.
> 
> They are now selling on Amazon. Any Silver Ticket Screen number with the letter "S" at the end means the listing is for their new ambient rejecting silver material which is what I have.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PU...=AC_SX110_SY165&keywords=silver+ticket+screen
> 
> 
> I'm using a LG PF-1500 led projector as a TV replacement/home theater projector. Its doing a great job at both duties. Since I never have to worry about replacing the bulb, I use it all evening for viewing shows and movies.


 
Thank you. I was going to pull a trigger on the grey material 120" for $299 until I saw your post and pictures. Did you go through the comparison process between the grey and silver material? Any inputs on these 2?


----------



## Swolephile

kevinnho said:


> Thank you. I was going to pull a trigger on the grey material 120" for $299 until I saw your post and pictures. Did you go through the comparison process between the grey and silver material? Any inputs on these 2?


I only compared the two based on the specs given to me by a Silver Ticket representative.

Silver material-1.5 gain, brighter shade of grey, rejects ambient light in rooms that are not completely dark

Grey material-1.0 gain, darker shade of grey, can be used in rooms that are not completely dark.

I never got samples of each to compare before I pulled the trigger. So I can't comment on how similar these two materials might be in person. I can only state that I am extremely impressed with the silver material. It's great.


----------



## ERuiz

Which one would you guys use to pair up with a JVC RS-4910... The white (1.1 gain) screen or gray (1.0 gain) screen?

The room is light controlled (bat-cave capable) but will also be used to watch live TV, so lights will be on when doing so. I would say 50% TV viewing and 50% BD movies.

I see they now have a silver version (1.5 gain) but not sure if this would be too bright when we go to bat-cave mode.

Image will be 125" 2.35:1 (CIH setup) with a throw distance of 15'-3" and seating distance of 11'. I will most likely calibrate my JVC RS-4910 for 16ftL using CalMAN/i1D3...

Thanks for any suggestions...


----------



## gates828

I just noticed the 1.5 gain screen is now in stock. I have the 1.1 sitting in the box in the basement that arrived today. That said I'm debating my situation. I have a Sony hw-40 coming soon in a room that will have the ability to be nearly totally dark. My throw distance is roughly 16 feet to a 120" screen. I do enjoy 3d, and coming from my panny 7000 ( Carada 118" 1.3 gain screen at ~12 ft), I was hoping for a bit better brightness for the 3d viewing. Am I over thinking this and will be fine with the 1.1 gain screen?


----------



## Dominic Chan

ERuiz said:


> The room is light controlled (bat-cave capable) but will also be used to watch live TV, so lights will be on when doing so. I would say 50% TV viewing and 50% BD movies.
> 
> I see they now have a silver version (1.5 gain) but not sure if this would be too bright when we go to bat-cave mode.


That shouldn't be a problem. You can always manually close down the aperture if necessary.


----------



## ERuiz

Dominic Chan said:


> That shouldn't be a problem. You can always manually close down the aperture if necessary.



So it would be best to go for the Silver 1.5 gain? What about hotspotting?


----------



## Dominic Chan

ERuiz said:


> So it would be best to go for the Silver 1.5 gain? What about hotspotting?


If you plan to use it 50% of the time with lights on, the silver 1.5 will be much better than the grey 1.0. As for hotspotting, hopefully someone who has already received the screen can provide some inputs.


----------



## ERuiz

Dominic Chan said:


> If you plan to use it 50% of the time with lights on, the silver 1.5 will be much better than the grey 1.0. As for hotspotting, hopefully someone who has already received the screen can provide some inputs.
















Hi Dominic,







Yea man, the more I read and research, the more it seems that the Silver Ticket Silver screen (1.5 gain) is the one to go with.







I wonder if it would be a good match for a JVC RS4910 projecting a 125" 2.35:1 image. CIH setup, so when projecting a 16:9 image, it will be 100" diagonally.



Now, if only someone could post their findings with this screen, as far as any hotspotting issues they might be seeing.



I am concerned about this, because my current seating arrangement has the people seating at the corners at about 45 degrees off centered.


----------



## Dominic Chan

ERuiz said:


> I wonder if it would be a good match for a JVC RS4910 projecting a 125" 2.35:1 image. CIH setup, so when projecting a 16:9 image, it will be 100" diagonally.


I'm using the 115" 2.35 Matte White Screen (1.1 Gain) with a JVC RS45, and found that I have to open the aperture almost fully when zoom to fill the width.


> I am concerned about this, because my current seating arrangement has the people seating at the corners at about 45 degrees off centered.


The samples of the silver screen posted by Swolephile were taken at an angle and they look fine.


----------



## ERuiz

Dominic Chan said:


> I'm using the 115" 2.35 Matte White Screen (1.1 Gain) with a JVC RS45, and found that I have to open the aperture almost fully when zoom to fill the width.
> 
> The samples of the silver screen posted by Swolephile were taken at an angle and they look fine.



Great info! I will go for the Silver 1.5 then.


----------



## Shaddow

I have a matte white 135" 16:9 and an rs4910 and run it 15 ft back with the aperture closed all the way down on auto2 on low lamp and its plenty bright. I was nervous about so big, but no complaints. Wish I had gone bigger! Almost went 120!


----------



## ERuiz

Swolephile said:


> Ok here I go. I began assembling this screen at 11:30pm. I did not finish until 4:30 this morning. The design is very simple and the directions were written decently however there needs to be more pictures to make the assembly process quicker and smoother.
> 
> 
> 
> The metal rods for the screen were an absolute pain in the ass. They kept getting stuck midway through the material and I had to force them all the way through which resulted in some minor tears on the mounting portion of this material. Thankfully you can't see them from the front.
> 
> 
> 
> There were some misaligned holes which delayed my assembly. And mounting the the material on to the tensioners was another blunder. The material's mounting holes was not big enough for the tensioners to go through so I had to cut the mounting holes bigger with a knife.
> 
> 
> 
> Mounting the screen was easy due to the sliding mounting hooks which are very forgiving. So even if the nails are a little too far to the left or right, you can slide the mounting brackets over either direction to accommodate.
> 
> 
> 
> When first using the screen, my picture was washed out with too much brightness and contrast. After recalibrating my projector's settings all I can say is WOW! This picture looks great with a ceiling fan's lights on, ceiling lights, floor lamp, light coming from adjacent room, lights on dimmer, and in a completely dark room.
> 
> 
> 
> I am completely awestruck by what I'm seeing. Picture quality is comparable to my previous Samsung 60" TV with the lights on in my living room.
> 
> 
> 
> I was using a black diamond 92" screen with the .8 gain. The picture Im seeing now is better in ambient light than what I was getting with the older model Black Diamond.
> 
> 
> 
> I am in awe that I only paid $399 for a 110" screen with this material. Looks just like a led TV now with the lights on. I HIGHLY recommend this product.
> 
> 
> 
> First pic is with ceiling fan light, floor lamp, side light from adjacent bedroom, and kitchen on.
> 
> 
> 
> Second pic is with floor lamp and rear ceiling lights on,
> 
> 
> 
> Third pic is complete darkness



Looks AMAZING! Quick questions though...

1. Any hot spotting?
2. How is offset viewing? Each end of my seating arrangement will be at 45 degrees and about 14' from the screen and I'm wondering how the image will look for those that sit there.

TIA


----------



## Swolephile

ERuiz said:


> Looks AMAZING! Quick questions though...
> 
> 1. Any hot spotting?
> 2. How is offset viewing? Each end of my seating arrangement will be at 45 degrees and about 14' from the screen and I'm wondering how the image will look for those that sit there.
> 
> TIA


Viewing angles are very good off axis in my opinion. Here are some pics from the side. No hotspotting with my screen. It's great!


----------



## Swolephile

gates828 said:


> I just noticed the 1.5 gain screen is now in stock. I have the 1.1 sitting in the box in the basement that arrived today. That said I'm debating my situation. I have a Sony hw-40 coming soon in a room that will have the ability to be nearly totally dark. My throw distance is roughly 16 feet to a 120" screen. I do enjoy 3d, and coming from my panny 7000 ( Carada 118" 1.3 gain screen at ~12 ft), I was hoping for a bit better brightness for the 3d viewing. Am I over thinking this and will be fine with the 1.1 gain screen?


If you still have time for a return, I would definitely suggest returning it in favor of the silver material.


----------



## ERuiz

Swolephile said:


> Viewing angles are very good off axis in my opinion. Here are some pics from the side. No hotspotting with my screen. It's great!



Amazing!!!! Those are some pretty EXTREME angles and yet, color and contrast hardly seems affected, if any! 

Can I make 3 requests, if you don't mind at all?

1. Picture at around 30 degrees from about 11-12 feet from the left side if facing screen.
2. Picture at around 45 degrees from about 11-12 feet from the right side if facing screen.
3. Picture straight on (dead center of screen) from about 13 feet.

I would be extremely grateful for these, Swolephile!


----------



## robl45

Im getting one of these in 150 soon. I was going to do white, but the alr has me interested since I do have light coming in during the day when I watch sometimes. The new projector will be a benq ht1075. Their website says aligning the projector with the alr is more tricky because it reflects. Any issues with this? Will I be losing out in night viewing? And how far does the screen stick off the wall?


----------



## shaner2000

Following. I have the exact same question with the same projector and daytime light concerns.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Swolephile

robl45 said:


> Im getting one of these in 150 soon. I was going to do white, but the alr has me interested since I do have light coming in during the day when I watch sometimes. The new projector will be a benq ht1075. Their website says aligning the projector with the alr is more tricky because it reflects. Any issues with this? Will I be losing out in night viewing? And how far does the screen stick off the wall?


I have no issue with reflection and my projector has very limited screen correction and throw. I have my projector about two feet to the left of my screen and it's mounted on tripod with allows me to angle the projector towards the screen. 

I believe the frame sticks of the wall roughly about 8 inches. I will measure when I get home to be sure.


----------



## Swolephile

I also wanted to state my screen had a long crease going along the bottom. I contacted Silver Ticket about this issue and they will be sending me another ALR silver material screen this week. They have been truly a pleasure to do business with.

I highly recommend them for the outstanding value of their products along with their superior customer service.


----------



## robl45

Swolephile said:


> I have no issue with reflection and my projector has very limited screen correction and throw. I have my projector about two feet to the left of my screen and it's mounted on tripod with allows me to angle the projector towards the screen.
> 
> I believe the frame sticks of the wall roughly about 8 inches. I will measure when I get home to be sure.


Please let me know, I can't imagine it would come out 8 inches from the wall.


----------



## Dominic Chan

robl45 said:


> Please let me know, I can't imagine it would come out 8 inches from the wall.


Assuming you are getting a straight frame (and not the curved frame), the frame itself is 1.25" deep. The mounting bracket and the centre support bar stick out about 1/8" beyond the frame, so the overall depth include some tolerance for the mounting screw heads should by about 1.5".


----------



## gates828

Swolephile said:


> If you still have time for a return, I would definitely suggest returning it in favor of the silver material.


Hah nope. Got impatient and put it all together Friday night. I'm fairly happy with it but I would be curious if I could get just the screen material if I so chose. Other than the crazy mid support the screen material wasn't too hard to install.


----------



## Dominic Chan

gates828 said:


> Hah nope. Got impatient and put it all together Friday night. I'm fairly happy with it but I would be curious if I could get just the screen material if I so chose.


I just went through exactly that - ordered and assembled a white screen, then decided to get the ALR silver screen. I contactded them and they sold me just the material. You need to hurry though, as supply is usually very limited on the ALR screens. They may even give you a discount, depending on how long ago you bought the white screen.


----------



## Swolephile

robl45 said:


> Im getting one of these in 150 soon. I was going to do white, but the alr has me interested since I do have light coming in during the day when I watch sometimes. The new projector will be a benq ht1075. Their website says aligning the projector with the alr is more tricky because it reflects. Any issues with this? Will I be losing out in night viewing? And how far does the screen stick off the wall?


Just measured. My screen extends a little less than 1.5" from the wall.


----------



## AllenA07

I've been looking at Elite Screens (looking at the 110-120 inch range) but stumbled across the Silver Ticket screens. Big question for those of you who own this brand, is quality pretty decent. These are a whole lot cheaper then basically anything else on the market, and that always makes me a little bit apprehensive about making the jump.

As a second part to this question, the room is going to be somewhat light controlled. There is a window and I will be using black out curtains on it, but the majority of my viewing time tends to be at night, so I don't think light is a huge issue. Knowing that, what are your thoughts as to the color? I'm thinking that I'll likely just stick with the matte white.


----------



## Dominic Chan

AllenA07 said:


> I've been looking at Elite Screens (looking at the 110-120 inch range) but stumbled across the Silver Ticket screens. Big question for those of you who own this brand, is quality pretty decent.


There's one review that's very favorable:
http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-projector-screen/
In general I find the construction quality to be quite good. For picture quality, the screen material is very smooth and will not interfere with high resolution images, and it has an excellent viewing angle. The only issue I have with my screen, is that it has a bluish tint which requires setting the projector to a warmer colour temperature to compensate.



> I'm thinking that I'll likely just stick with the matte white.


If your projector has enough lumens for the screen size, the matte white would be the best choice. In my case, I'm only getting 10flL with the white screen, so will be looking at the silver screen for the extra gain.


----------



## shaner2000

What would you classify as a bright enough projector? I have the Benq 1075. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

shaner2000 said:


> What would you classify as a bright enough projector? I have the Benq 1075.


The Benq HT1075 is certainly a bright enough projector, even in Cinema mode.


----------



## stylistics18

Can anyone with an acoustic woven screen chime in on the tightness of the weave? I'm trying to decide between a Silver Ticket screen and the new Elite AcousticPro3 which is more costly but looks to have the tightest weave ever. I'm looking at a 92 inch to pair with an Epson 3000. 

Also, did the issue of the corners not being tight enough and appearing darker ever get solved? Looks like a build issue with no clips/springs for the corners.


----------



## russelms

My acoustic screen , 120" 16:9, has a very tight weave that when I sit back at 12 feet with my Sony VPLHW40 I cannot detect any of the pattern.


----------



## stylistics18

russelms said:


> My acoustic screen , 120" 16:9, has a very tight weave that when I sit back at 12 feet with my Sony VPLHW40 I cannot detect any of the pattern.


Thanks for the verification!


----------



## AllenA07

Dominic Chan said:


> There's one review that's very favorable:
> http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-projector-screen/
> In general I find the construction quality to be quite good. For picture quality, the screen material is very smooth and will not interfere with high resolution images, and it has an excellent viewing angle. The only issue I have with my screen, is that it has a bluish tint which requires setting the projector to a warmer colour temperature to compensate.
> 
> 
> If your projector has enough lumens for the screen size, the matte white would be the best choice. In my case, I'm only getting 10flL with the white screen, so will be looking at the silver screen for the extra gain.


I've got a BenQ w1070, thing isn't exactly a dim projector. White should do the trick.


----------



## Cyborg_Optoma

Hi screen experts 

recently got Sony VPLH-W40ES projector and looking to get a screen.. I want to either get a 120" or 130" screen.. projector is almost 16' away from wall and seating is 12'-13'  ..currently I have shelf mounted the projector.. so it some times annoys if I stand in the middle of a movie as I come in middle of the projection .. no plans yet to have it mounted... i have a mount at home.. if I really need to mount it then I think some of the above calculations will not work..but not plans to do it in near future.

and not too fancy and don't want to shell out much at this time..

so I was looking at carls screen material and do a thumb tack fixed screen.. got inspiration from other members / member who did it like wise.. 

so need some suggestions:

1. what screen material should I get for my projector.. some people earlier on the dedicated projector thread suggested to look into a gray screen.. to get good exact blacks.. as this projector seems a little grey on black scenes.. if I go with high contrast gray screen would it affect colors or anything else on the screen ? And what gain should I target for ?
2. Have been extensively reading and unable to decide.. and think I should just get samples and try it out my self.. but just want to take a leap of faith and not compare materials as of now and go with one screen which is a little cheaper on the side.
3. I saw this very old silver star screen thread.. but it is too old. do we even have such screen now ? is the silver ticket same as these ? the images posted by OP were stunning compared to gray.. and I am not sure if the gray screen he was using was the same quality we have now.. as gray screens have come up in quality and acceptance more with improvements to it making them one of the best choices...

4. finally if I just want to get carls gray cloth should I go that route ? if so does anyone know how to get frame created for the screen ? any options on frame purchase ? 

5. or just go with silver ticket white or gray screens which come with frame.

6. mainly plan to use it during night.. occasionally during day time or in evening around 6 or 7 PM. I had a window and used a Blackout EZ and some other cheaper option to get the window not let any light come out and this window will be covering 1/4th of the screen to the extreme left of the projection...

7. I have a very big opening to stair case on the right side of the screen which is not covered and I might do it soon. so this is not a complete light controlled room.. but at night time it is dark enough with no lights up or down stairs.

8. mostly do gaming with watching movies every other day or do both same day. and also browse.

9. also is it compulsory to have the lower 1/3rd or so of the screen to be at the eye level ?

appreciate your patience in bearing with my questions 

TIA


----------



## Swolephile

ERuiz said:


> Amazing!!!! Those are some pretty EXTREME angles and yet, color and contrast hardly seems affected, if any!
> 
> Can I make 3 requests, if you don't mind at all?
> 
> 1. Picture at around 30 degrees from about 11-12 feet from the left side if facing screen.
> 2. Picture at around 45 degrees from about 11-12 feet from the right side if facing screen.
> 3. Picture straight on (dead center of screen) from about 13 feet.
> 
> I would be extremely grateful for these, Swolephile!


Here you go.


----------



## ERuiz

Swolephile said:


> Here you go.



Thanks! Unless someone else sees any, I think hotspotting is not an issue with the ALR screen! 🏼


----------



## Cyborg_Optoma

well I can understand this post is too lengthy.. and ignorable for the same reason..

I have come down to 2 choices may be 3 if I want to go DIY route and go cheap if I go with Carl's blackout cloth gray or white ?

the 2 fixed screens I am thinking of would be a 135" white matte silver ticket or 135" ALR Silver ticket gray screen.. my projector is Sony VPL-HW40ES. decisions decision...

Appreciate inputs.. trying to keep it short this time


----------



## Anthony Cler

bpassman said:


> Hey! I'm looking to upgrade from a Carada 110" & Epson 8350 to the ST 158" Curved 2.35:1 AT screen & JVC X500R. Has anyone tried a Silver Ticket curved model yet that can post some pics?


I'm considering the same exact screen and projector, though it'll be a few more months from now for me. Please post your experience if you decide to try this screen. Seems like an unbeatable price for a curved 2.35:1 AT screen.


----------



## Shift

saw your post, I too just got an AT Screen from ST.
I had little bit of problems w/ the support brackets to be even vertically and once I got one in the other bracket was loose, so I just shifted it to the opposite closer edge of where the other bracket was. 

It was cool that ST sent you shorter tension springs. The ones I got were small and if there is a smaller tension version than the one I got, I bet I would not been able to install them cause mine are pretty tight. BTW.... how is your screen on the waves since the new shorter tension springs??





gnolivos said:


> So I ended up ordering the 110 inch acoustically transparent screen from silver ticket. This is to replace my 102 inch painted wall. It is also going to sit two feet closer to my viewing/seating position. Altogether this makes for a pretty big difference in perceived screen size. I will have my speakers sitting behind the screen which should also add a nicer more immersive effect.
> 
> Some info about this screen. The packaging was superb. Absolutely top-notch. The quality of the frame is outstanding, everything is very heavy duty. The screen is built like a tank.
> 
> I did encounter a few issues. First of all there was a small stain on the screen, but this came out very easily with just a damp cloth. The bigger issue I am having is with tension system. It is different than what I've seen posted in this thread,, and it is a spring loaded tension system that holds the material together. The problem I am having is that it is not tight enough, and there are visible wrinkles at the top and bottom of the screen.
> 
> Silver ticket customer service has been outstanding, and readily available to help me through some of these issues and will now be sending me shorter tighter springs to help with this problem. It is unfortunate that they do not have or share a phone number, but at least they are very quick to respond to email. I will keep this thread updated and provide some perspective on overall screen quality and performance once I am able to get it all set up.
> View attachment 655657


----------



## Shift

I am going to take a guess at this, but if I recall the Sanyo Z2000 or older model LCDs the SD effect is more common. I would not doubt that you are seeing a little bit of both but more noticeable due to the SD effect. Even my Panasonic ae3000 SD effect was not something I enjoyed especially almost at max zoom.

I say try not to use too much of the zoom on your PJ and see if this images goes away (moire)?

Good luck. 




gnolivos said:


> Sorry for the back and forth... I have spend a couple days watching movies with the new AT screen, and have concluded that with my 1080p projector (Sanyo Z2000) there is a slight vertical moire across the entire image when properly framed. It is most noticeable on bright images and white solid colors. If I defocus the lens, the moire is gone. Also if I zoom out (larger image) the moire effect is also gone. Zooming in all the way (1/4 image size approx) there is no moire. It appears to me that the weave pattern is unfortunately such that when projecting a 1080p pixel structure that fills the 110 screen, the moire is apparent. This will be different with other screen sizes, and I estimate that a 130" screen may be fine with this weave (zooming out would be required, and may be enough to eliminate moire according to my tests).
> 
> Net, if you are bothered by a fine moire, avoid this screen at 110" diagonal. Maybe another projector would fix? I dont know.
> 
> Attached pic shows Moire. Left side has blank paper. Right is weave.
> View attachment 674425


----------



## phlogis

So I finally decided to get the Benq W1070 for my 9.5' throw and now I need to decide on a screen. I was already suggested to me to get the Silver Screen and to be honest it appealed to me right away. Not having to deal with the hassle and difficulty of doing a paint on the wall screen correctly, or building a laminate or foam screen. 

My room is basically a square 10' 7" by 10' 7" with one end opens up to the rest of the room, but there is a 1' ceiling duct, so the square is where all the viewing will take place. That gives me room for a 100" to 110" screen, if I hang, if I paint I would have to go above the outlet so probably only 100". The ceilings are 8'. I will be painting the room dark blue-grey and getting blackout curtains so that it can go very dark for movies and shows, but I will want to watch football probably with lights on. 

So now my dilemma is the 1 gain grey, 1.1 white, or the 1.5 silver? It sounds like the silver is a good compromise and is a real winner. I'm concerned that it will be washed out on a white screen with any ambient light because the Benq 1070 isn't "stellar" with the blacks (from what I have been told). 

Opinions?


----------



## Dominic Chan

phlogis said:


> So now my dilemma is the 1 gain grey, 1.1 white, or the 1.5 silver? It sounds like the silver is a good compromise and is a real winner. I'm concerned that it will be washed out on a white screen with any ambient light because the Benq 1070 isn't "stellar" with the blacks (from what I have been told).


If you plan to watch with lights on, the Benq 1070, with its high output, will actually do a better job than projectors with superior black level but less lumens.

Regardless of the projector, a matte white or matte grey will look more washed out, compared with the 1.5 ALR.


----------



## curtishd

Does anyone know if the silver screen (not grey) will work with passive 3D? 

Does it have lots of sparkle and/or a visible texture when watching a projected image? 

Anyone willing to try this: take a pair of the cheap passive 3D glasses and shine the projector through the right lens and teen while wearing another pair of the same glasses see if the image on the screen is darkend in the right lens.


----------



## Dominic Chan

curtishd said:


> Does anyone know if the silver screen (not grey) will work with passive 3D?


Yes, that question was previously asked and they updated their website with the following info:
http://www.silverticketproducts.com/catalog/screen-materials/MAT-S

Polarization Retention 92% 
Active 3D Compatible Yes 
Passive 3D Compatible Yes


----------



## Dominic Chan

*Review of Silver Ticket Ambient Light Rejection Screen*

Since quite a few people seem to be interested in the Silver Ticket Ambient Light Rejection (ALR) Screen, I decided to post a review together with some pictures.

Here's my overall assessment:

1. Colour neutrality. Surprisingly, the ALR has a more neutral colour compared with the Silver Ticket Matte White (MW) which has a blue tint. In the posted pictures the projector was calibrated to produce D65 with the respective screen.

2. Gain and Contrast. In comparison with the Silver Ticket Matte White (MW), the centre part of the ALR screen is about 70% brighter, based on the exposure of my Nikon DSLR. However, the edges of the ALR screen are actually darker than the MW. In the comparison pictures, the ALR pictures have the exposure reduced by 1/2 stop for comparable overall brightness. The ALR has a visibly higher contrast (deeper blacks) than the MW, even in the absence of ambient light.

3. Hotspotting. Inevitably, the higher gain of the ALR results in a narrower viewing angle. Since I use my projector (JVC DLA-X30/RS45) with a 2.35 cinescope screen, I mount the projector at 13' in order to accommodate zooming between 16:9 and 2.35:1. Without this constraint, I would have mounted the projector farther away which would reduce hotspotting. In the comparison pictures, I only show the 16:9 crop as I consider that to be more representative.

4. Ambient Light Rejection. I have a soffit with three overhead 50-watt pot lights. The soffit is perpendicular to the screen, about 5' away to the left. The lights are normally off when I watch movies, but I turned them on to see the effectiveness of the ALR's light rejection capability. As in 3 above, the pictures are cropped to 16:9.

5. "Sparklies". Being a silver screen, there's inevitably some sparklies. From my viewing distance of about 12', I cannot see the individual sparlies per se, but can see some sort of texture in the bright areas. Unfortunately, at least on my specific screen, the texture is not entirely uniform.

In summary, I think the ALR screen is good for Home Entertainment applications, where there's some ambient light. It is not ideal for "Bat Cave" Home Cinema applications due to the hotspotting and texturing. In particular, the use of 2.35 aspect ratio screen further aggravates the hotspotting.

The four pictures are as follows:
1. ALR, Lights on
2. MW, Lights on
3. MW, Lights off
4. ALR, Lights off (note the light drop off on the sides)

I can post some more pictures if there's an interest.
[EDIT: I've included the "unequalized" version of the comparison pictures in a subsequent posted:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-9.html#post35346042
The unequalized pictures demonstrated better the increased gain and the light fall-off of the ALR.


----------



## ERuiz

Dominic Chan said:


> Since quite a few people seem to be interested in the Silver Ticket Ambient Light Rejection (ALR) Screen, I decided to post a review together with some pictures.
> 
> Here's my overall assessment:
> 
> 1. Colour neutrality. Surprisingly, the ALR has a more neutral colour compared with the Silver Ticket Matte White (MW) which has a blue tint. In the posted pictures the projector was calibrated to produce D65 with the respective screen.
> 
> 2. Gain and Contrast. In comparison with the Silver Ticket Matte White (MW), the centre part of the ALR screen is about 70% brighter, based on the exposure of my Nikon DSLR. However, the edges of the ALR screen are actually darker than the MW. In the comparison pictures, the ALR pictures have the exposure reduced by 1/2 stop for comparable overall brightness. The ALR has a visibly higher contrast (deeper blacks) than the MW, even in the absence of ambient light.
> 
> 3. Hotspotting. Inevitably, the higher gain of the ALR results in a narrower viewing angle. Since I use my projector (JVC DLA-X30/RS45) with a 2.35 cinescope screen, I mount the projector at 13' in order to accommodate zooming between 16:9 and 2.35:1. Without this constraint, I would have mounted the projector farther away which would reduce hotspotting. In the comparison pictures, I only show the 16:9 crop as I consider that to be more representative.
> 
> 4. Ambient Light Rejection. I have a soffit with three overhead 50-watt pot lights. The soffit is perpendicular to the screen, about 5' away to the left. The lights are normally off when I watch movies, but I turned them on to see the effectiveness of the ALR's light rejection capability. As in 3 above, the pictures are cropped to 16:9.
> 
> 5. "Sparklies". Being a silver screen, there's inevitably some sparklies. From my viewing distance of about 12', I consider the sparklies to be visible but not distractingly so.
> 
> In summary, I think the ALR screen is good for Home Entertainment applications, where there's some ambient light. It is not ideal for "Bat Cave" Home Cinema applications due to the hotspotting. In particular, the use of 2.35 aspect ratio screen further aggravates the problem.
> 
> The four pictures are as follows:
> 1. ALR, Lights on
> 2. MW, Lights on
> 3. MW, Lights off
> 4. ALR, Lights off (note the vignetting on the sides)
> 
> I can post some more pictures if there's an interest.



Thank you so much, Dominic! I really appreciate it... Since you asked, I do have a few requests, if you don't mind.

Any chance of taking a video, instead of photos? I would love to see videos from straight on at a distance of about 11-13 feet... Then at 40 degress off center at about 11 feet...

You got me worried now about the sparklies. My seating would be at 11' or greater, if needed.


----------



## Dominic Chan

ERuiz said:


> Any chance of taking a video, instead of photos? I would love to see videos from straight on at a distance of about 11-13 feet... Then at 40 degress off center at about 11 feet...


I don't have a video but here are two pictures taken of the entire 2.35 screen, one from 12' straight on, the other 5' to the left of the first position. You can see the hotpot shifting towards the left in the second picture.


----------



## ERuiz

Dominic Chan said:


> I don't have a video but here are two pictures taken of the entire 2.35 screen, one from 12' straight on, the other 5' to the left of the first position. You can see the hotpot shifting towards the left in the second picture.



Oh I see now what you mean, Dominic. I can even see shadow detail being lost on the far edge as well, on the second pic.

Dang, now I'm starting to wonder if I should just stick with the white screen instead.

Do you see the loss of shadow detail in reality or is that just the way the pic came out?


----------



## Dominic Chan

ERuiz said:


> Do you see the loss of shadow detail in reality or is that just the way the pic came out?


The shadow detail is not lost, it's just darker. Here's a brightened (+1 stop) version of the same picture.

As stated in my previous post, I would select the ALR screen only for its light rejection capability. The MW screen definitely has a much wider viewing angle and a smoother surface.


----------



## ERuiz

Dominic Chan said:


> The shadow detail is not lost, it's just darker. Here's a brightened (+1 stop) version of the same picture.
> 
> As stated in my previous post, I would select the ALR screen only for its light rejection capability. The MW screen definitely has a much wider viewing angle and a smoother surface.


Thanks again for your pics and followup... I really could use the ALR features because my living room is definitely not an ideal setup. White ceilings, semi-gloss mustard/burgundy walls, white trims and creme colored ceramic tiles. Being a rented house, I cannot change any of these. I will be able to use blackout curtains though, to control ambient lighting during the day.

Even though at night it is pitch black, there will definitely be tons of light from the screen being reflected back to the screen.

And I will have a few lights on when watching live TV and sports...

I definitely need to go with the ALR, correct?


----------



## Dominic Chan

ERuiz said:


> I definitely need to go with the ALR, correct?


Do you have the projector already? If so, you can just project on the existing wall to see how washed up the picture will be under those conditions; the MW screen will not be very different in that respect.

The ALR screen improves the contrast at the expense of viewing angle and sparklies. When watching a movie last night, I actually find that the hotspotting is not very noticeable most of the time, unless you do an A-B test by moving from side to side. On the other hand, the sparklies are more noticeable. I've revised the above review accordingly.


----------



## ERuiz

Dominic Chan said:


> Do you have the projector already? If so, you can just project on the existing wall to see how washed up the picture will be under those conditions; the MW screen will not be very different in that respect.
> 
> 
> 
> The ALR screen improves the contrast at the expense of viewing angle and sparklies. When watching a movie last night, I actually find that the hotspotting is not very noticeable most of the time, unless you do an A-B test by moving from side to side. On the other hand, the sparklies are more noticeable. I've revised the above review accordingly.



Ok, thanks once again... And no, I do not have the projector yet, but I have a good idea of what to get now.

I will go with the JVC RS4910 paired to a Silver Ticket-S ALR 125" 2.35:1 screen. My room conditions simply aren't conducive for a white screen.


----------



## ERuiz

Pulled the trigger!!! I ordered the Silver Ticket-S ALR 125" 2.35:1 model for $299 no tax, free Prime shipping at Amazon. Last one in stock!

Should get it this Friday and hopefully by having the screen all setup and mounted on the wall, will motivate me into getting the projector ASAP..


----------



## ERuiz

Got the screen yesterday and 1 1/2 hours later, it was up on the wall and I must say, what a thing of beauty!!! Especially for the price paid. Build quality is amazing. Packaging was top notch. I can't wait to finally purchase a projector and light this baby up!


----------



## Anthony Cler

Looks sweet! Please gives an update with pics once you get your projector.


----------



## ERuiz

Anthony Cler said:


> Looks sweet! Please gives an update with pics once you get your projector.



Will do! Seeing as to how I now need a pj NOW, I will probably pull the trigger on a Panasonic PT-AE8000U. I will probably sell it and get the JVC X500R during next year's tax refund circa February. I will be able to easily afford it by then, but I just need to get me a pj now that I have the screen set up.

I think the AE8000U will pair nicely with this screen.


----------



## Swolephile

ERuiz said:


> Got the screen yesterday and 1 1/2 hours later, it was up on the wall and I must say, what a thing of beauty!!! Especially for the price paid. Build quality is amazing. Packaging was top notch. I can't wait to finally purchase a projector and light this baby up!


Looks great. I just ordered a 120" ALR screen from Silver Ticket on Thursday. I now have my 110" screen up for sale. The quality you get for the price paid with these alr screens from Silver Ticket is insane.


----------



## ERuiz

Swolephile said:


> Looks great. I just ordered a 120" ALR screen from Silver Ticket on Thursday. I now have my 110" screen up for sale. The quality you get for the price paid with these alr screens from Silver Ticket is insane.



Exactly, it is insane indeed. BTW, I just ordered the Panasonic AE8000U!!! I should be getting it on Tuesday. Can't wait to set everything up and see how it performs.

Once I get to the 100 hour mark, I will be calibrating it with an i1D3 and CalMAN 5.5....


----------



## acmeavs

Good Day,

Does anyone have a Silver Ticket gray (1.0 gain) screen that has tested it in some ambient light conditions? I have a Epson Home Cinema 3000 and am considering getting a STR-169106-G. I have control over ambient light, but the wife does not like complete darkness. I was considering the ALR 1.5 gain, but wanted to see how the gray material would fair against ambient light. I think my projector is bright enough that an ALR is not absolutely necessary. Plus, the black levels on the HC3000 could use the assistance of a gray screen. Anyone have a similar setup that could provide feedback (entry level projector with silver ticket gray material).


----------



## kevinnho

Over the weekend, I tested HW40ES with ALR Silver Ticket 120" screen. The colors and the projector looked great, but Silver Ticket ALR screen seems to have a textured/grainy look at a certain scenes in the movies (especially daylight scenes). Is this normal for silver material ALR screens? Anyone else experiencing this?


----------



## Dominic Chan

kevinnho said:


> Over the weekend, I tested HW40ES with ALR Silver Ticket 120" screen. The colors and the projector looked great, but Silver Ticket ALR screen seems to have a textured/grainy look at a certain scenes in the movies (especially daylight scenes). Is this normal for silver material ALR screens? Anyone else experiencing this?


Yes, that's one trade-off with ALR screens. I mentioned that in my mini-review earlier in the thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-8.html#post34897441


----------



## kevinnho

Dominic Chan said:


> Yes, that's one trade-off with ALR screens. I mentioned that in my mini-review earlier in the thread:
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-8.html#post34897441


Based on your review, grey and matte white material are great materials if you have light controlled dedicated home theater setup. But if it's an open area where lights will be on, then ALR is the better material?


----------



## Dominic Chan

kevinnho said:


> Based on your review, grey and matte white material are great materials if you have light controlled dedicated home theater setup. But if it's an open area where lights will be on, then ALR is the better material?


That is true in general, not really the outcome of my review.

Personally, I don't like matte grey screen. They do not reject any ambient light or improve the actual contrast ratio, only make the black _seem_ darker.


----------



## BKEW

ERuiz said:


> Exactly, it is insane indeed. BTW, I just ordered the Panasonic AE8000U!!! I should be getting it on Tuesday. Can't wait to set everything up and see how it performs.
> 
> Once I get to the 100 hour mark, I will be calibrating it with an i1D3 and CalMAN 5.5....



How did it work out with the 8000? Wondering as I am thinking of doing the same setup and waiting on the 4K stuff to come down. I am on the fence on a JVC projector but at the price of the 8000 right now hard not to pull the trigger and see what shakes out in the next year or so.


----------



## Swolephile

Quick question for Silver Ticket screen owners. I finished assembling my 120" ALR screen tonight however I forgot to slide on the mounting brackets. Has anyone hung their screens using wood screws and the frame of the screen itself? 

This is how I've hung other projector screens in the past. Or, is everyone using the sliding mounting brackets only when hanging their screens?


----------



## Swolephile

kevinnho said:


> Over the weekend, I tested HW40ES with ALR Silver Ticket 120" screen. The colors and the projector looked great, but Silver Ticket ALR screen seems to have a textured/grainy look at a certain scenes in the movies (especially daylight scenes). Is this normal for silver material ALR screens? Anyone else experiencing this?


There is a bit of graininess with every ALR screen I've seen including the Black Diamond. Nature of the beast with these types of screens. Though I feel it's very minor with the Silver Ticket ALR screen and does not deter much from it's picture quality in my opinion.


----------



## ERuiz

BKEW said:


> How did it work out with the 8000? Wondering as I am thinking of doing the same setup and waiting on the 4K stuff to come down. I am on the fence on a JVC projector but at the price of the 8000 right now hard not to pull the trigger and see what shakes out in the next year or so.



Hey buddy,

Well I did get the Panny yesterday and got to unpack it and set it up. Before having to hit the bed...

First impressions? Not good... 

This is my first ALR screen and the sparklies/graininess is too obvious and in-your-face. It was really disappointing when the first thing my wife said was "you still haven't finished tweaking right? The image looks horrible. Image looks dirty."...

The image itself looks rich and vibrant, it's the sparklies/graininess that's ruining the visual experience, at least in my setup.

I'm projecting a 125" 2.35 (100" 16:9) image from a distance of 15'-3" and viewing distance of 11'.

I guess I will return it to Amazon and order a white screen version.


----------



## Cyborg_Optoma

ERuiz said:


> Hey buddy,
> 
> Well I did get the Panny yesterday and got to unpack it and set it up. Before having to hit the bed...
> 
> First impressions? Not good...
> 
> This is my first ALR screen and the sparklies/graininess is too obvious and in-your-face. It was really disappointing when the first thing my wife said was "you still haven't finished tweaking right? The image looks horrible. Image looks dirty."...
> 
> The image itself looks rich and vibrant, it's the sparklies/graininess that's ruining the visual experience, at least in my setup.
> 
> I'm projecting a 125" 2.35 (100" 16:9) image from a distance of 15'-3" and viewing distance of 11'.
> 
> I guess I will return it to Amazon and order a white screen version.



Hi Sorry to hear about your experience I too see sparkles a lot and I think this was mentioned earlier too specially by @Dominic Chan

I too see sparkles a lot and a little bit of hotspotting and some pattern creation on very bright image output on screen at times...I am viewing from 11' or 12'... when I watch text like use just browser or read some new article I see grainy image..but once I play Blu ray everything looks good but some times in very white background etc i do see some pattern... I am not sure if I will return it.. what kind of content are you viewing ?

I will try to post my images.

TIA


----------



## Swolephile

ERuiz said:


> Hey buddy,
> 
> Well I did get the Panny yesterday and got to unpack it and set it up. Before having to hit the bed...
> 
> First impressions? Not good...
> 
> This is my first ALR screen and the sparklies/graininess is too obvious and in-your-face. It was really disappointing when the first thing my wife said was "you still haven't finished tweaking right? The image looks horrible. Image looks dirty."...
> 
> The image itself looks rich and vibrant, it's the sparklies/graininess that's ruining the visual experience, at least in my setup.
> 
> I'm projecting a 125" 2.35 (100" 16:9) image from a distance of 15'-3" and viewing distance of 11'.
> 
> I guess I will return it to Amazon and order a white screen version.


Very sorry to hear this. My second screen seems quite a bit less grainy than my first screen. I'm very happy with this one. Wish I could go bigger.


----------



## ERuiz

Yea, but pictures don't really capture sparklies. The sparklies I'm seeing is exactly how the vamps from Eclipse look like when they step into daylight. The way their skins sparkle and twinkle. I am watching any source and this sparkling, especially in bright scenes is unbearable. The only way I can explain it is like when you take a damp cloth and wipe down a TV screen, leaving water on the glass and they you turn the TV on, you see sparkles and twinkles from the light being diffused by the water droplets.

There are even some areas of the screen that if the light hits it a certain way, you see what looks like stuck pixels. This screen just has too much glitter for my taste.

I should be getting the matte white screen today.


----------



## Cyborg_Optoma

Swolephile said:


> Very sorry to hear this. My second screen seems quite a bit less grainy than my first screen. I'm very happy with this one. Wish I could go bigger.


wow how did you put it back together in the box the entire screen etc etc ...

amazon accepts returns on this one ?

TIA


----------



## Swolephile

ERuiz said:


> Yea, but pictures don't really capture sparklies. The sparklies I'm seeing is exactly how the vamps from Eclipse look like when they step into daylight. The way their skins sparkle and twinkle. I am watching any source and this sparkling, especially in bright scenes is unbearable. The only way I can explain it is like when you take a damp cloth and wipe down a TV screen, leaving water on the glass and they you turn the TV on, you see sparkles and twinkles from the light being diffused by the water droplets.
> 
> There are even some areas of the screen that if the light hits it a certain way, you see what looks like stuck pixels. This screen just has too much glitter for my taste.
> 
> I should be getting the matte white screen today.


I can see some sparkles if I am standing right in front of my screen. However I do not see any sparkles when viewing the screen from my couch which is 15 feet away. I think you might have been sitting to close to your screen.


----------



## ERuiz

Swolephile said:


> I can see some sparkles if I am standing right in front of my screen. However I do not see any sparkles when viewing the screen from my couch which is 15 feet away. I think you might have been sitting to close to your screen.



11-12' viewing distance for a 100" image (16:9) and 125" (2.35:1) is not too close at all.

I just finished putting up the ST matte white screen and bingo! IQ is back to what I expected from a pj such as the AE8000U. Now it looks like I'm looking out the window or a huge plasma TV.

With the ALR screen, it was more like looking out a dirty screened window. Not hating on the ALR screen, it just wasn't for me.


----------



## kevinnho

They are replacing my ALR with matte white and it is arriving tomorrow. Can't wait to compare tomorrow. What i liked about ALR is how good it looked with lights on. Will i see a huge diff with ambient lights? I am sure it will look great when it is pitched black.


----------



## ERuiz

kevinnho said:


> They are replacing my ALR with matte white and it is arriving tomorrow. Can't wait to compare tomorrow. What i liked about ALR is how good it looked with lights on. Will i see a huge diff with ambient lights? I am sure it will look great when it is pitched black.



Yes, the image will be more washed out with lights on when compared to the ALR, but personally, I'll take that over the glitter and sparklies.


----------



## blublight9

Do anyone have an in-ceiling screen? Can you hang an in-ceiling screen on the ceiling without cutting it out? I want a motorized screen but I don't think I can do a cutout.


----------



## Swolephile

ERuiz said:


> 11-12' viewing distance for a 100" image (16:9) and 125" (2.35:1) is not too close at all.
> 
> I just finished putting up the ST matte white screen and bingo! IQ is back to what I expected from a pj such as the AE8000U. Now it looks like I'm looking out the window or a huge plasma TV.
> 
> With the ALR screen, it was more like looking out a dirty screened window. Not hating on the ALR screen, it just wasn't for me.


Glad it worked out for you. A white screen will always give you the most accurate picture provided you have a light controlled or dark room.


----------



## Swolephile

Cyborg_Optoma said:


> wow how did you put it back together in the box the entire screen etc etc ...
> 
> amazon accepts returns on this one ?
> 
> TIA


Amazon does accept returns with this screen. However I sold mine and shipped it in the box my 120" screen came in. I had to de-assemble it first though.


----------



## acmeavs

acmeavs said:


> Does anyone have a Silver Ticket gray (1.0 gain) screen that has tested it in some ambient light conditions? I have a Epson Home Cinema 3000 and am considering getting a STR-169106-G. I have control over ambient light, but the wife does not like complete darkness. I was considering the ALR 1.5 gain, but wanted to see how the gray material would fair against ambient light. I think my projector is bright enough that an ALR is not absolutely necessary. Plus, the black levels on the HC3000 could use the assistance of a gray screen. Anyone have a similar setup that could provide feedback (entry level projector with silver ticket gray material).


*BUMP*

Does anybody have the gray material and can comment on the quality with an entry-level LCD projector? Does the gray material really enhance the perceived contrast level? How about ambient light conditions?


----------



## Dominic Chan

acmeavs said:


> *BUMP*
> 
> Does anybody have the gray material and can comment on the quality with an entry-level LCD projector? Does the gray material really enhance the perceived contrast level? How about ambient light conditions?


I have not tried the Silver Ticket grey screen, but have tested other grey screens. They do enhanced the perceived black level (making the dark grey more black), but that doesn't mean the contrast level is increased since the whites are also more dim. 

Matte grey screens do not reject ambient lights, in spite of what's claimed. 

IMHO, the choice is between matte white and ALR, each with the pros and cons discussed earlier in this thread.


----------



## Phreezone

Dominic Chan said:


> I have not tried the Silver Ticket grey screen, but have tested other grey screens. They do enhanced the perceived black level (making the dark grey more black), but that doesn't mean the contrast level is increased since the whites are also more dim.
> 
> Matte grey screens do not reject ambient lights, in spite of what's claimed.
> 
> IMHO, the choice is between matte white and ALR, each with the pros and cons discussed earlier in this thread.


I've been looking to get an ALR screen and just talked to Silver Ticket and they are at a 3-4 week wait for most their more popular screens right now. I was told that they are ramping up production to meet the demand but they are still far behind demand right now.

Does anyone know where i could get a sample of the material to compare the Silver Ticket vs an Elite Screen alr?


----------



## Dominic Chan

Phreezone said:


> Does anyone know where i could get a sample of the material to compare the Silver Ticket vs an Elite Screen alr?


In general, the material samples are only available from the manufacturers themselves. My experience is that Silver Ticket has not been providing samples recently; not sure about Elite.

It's very difficult to evaluate the effectiveness of ALR screen materials based on a small sample, other than seeing if the "sparklies" or "graininess" bother you at your viewing distance.


----------



## curtishd

Anyone here able to do a side by side shot of a ALR vs matte white screen?


----------



## Dominic Chan

curtishd said:


> Anyone here able to do a side by side shot of a ALR vs matte white screen?


[NOTE: I posted an earlier reply but could not add a picture afterwards; this replaces the earlier reply].

I did a comparison in an earlier post in this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-8.html#post34897441

When viewing the pictures, you can do a Previous/Next for comparison, or save the images to compare. I have also attached a picture superimposing on over the other, to facilitate the comparison. The top part was from the Silver Ticket ALR screen, the lower part from their Matte White screen.


----------



## ERuiz

Dominic Chan said:


> [NOTE: I posted an earlier reply but could not add a picture afterwards; this replaces the earlier reply].
> 
> I did a comparison in an earlier post in this thread:
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-8.html#post34897441
> 
> When viewing the pictures, you can do a Previous/Next for comparison, or save the images to compare. I have also attached a picture superimposing on over the other, to facilitate the comparison. The top part was from the Silver Ticket ALR screen, the lower part from their Matte White screen.


 @curtishd

As the pic provided by Dominic shows, the ALR screen definitely performs like a champ when ambient light is a factor.

But as a public service, I have to remind you that pics do NOT show glitter/twinklies prevalent with the ALR screen.

For some people it's not an issue but for others it is. If it wasn't for the extreme glittering I experienced with the ALR screen, I would have kept it without any doubts or regrets.

The image did look superb with lights on but the glitters were simply too overwhelming.


----------



## Cyborg_Optoma

Dominic Chan said:


> [NOTE: I posted an earlier reply but could not add a picture afterwards; this replaces the earlier reply].
> 
> I did a comparison in an earlier post in this thread:
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-8.html#post34897441
> 
> When viewing the pictures, you can do a Previous/Next for comparison, or save the images to compare. I have also attached a picture superimposing on over the other, to facilitate the comparison. The top part was from the Silver Ticket ALR screen, the lower part from their Matte White screen.


between the 2 which one is best.. looking at the pic.. matte white seems to show more bright picture compared to ALR ? is it right ? but are blacks gray on matte white ? which one did you keep ? 



ERuiz said:


> @curtishd
> 
> As the pic provided by Dominic shows, the ALR screen definitely performs like a champ when ambient light is a factor.
> 
> But as a public service, I have to remind you that pics do NOT show glitter/twinklies prevalent with the ALR screen.
> 
> For some people it's not an issue but for others it is. If it wasn't for the extreme glittering I experienced with the ALR screen, I would have kept it without any doubts or regrets.
> 
> The image did look superb with lights on but the glitters were simply too overwhelming.




may be you answered already.. how close are you sitting.. and it is on only bright image outputs i believe the grainy pattern caused by sparklies is visible? I believe you changed screen from ALR to matte white... what is the difference do you see more vibrant colors if light is controller well in an environment compared to ALR screen ? 

I am auditioning ALR as of now but have asked for a return label.. the grainy or sparklies bother only sometimes to me.. other than that ALR seems really good screen.. specially as it can bump up the black level a little bit.. did you see any drop in black level from ALR to matte white even though screen brightness might have increase ?


I am sitting at around 11 or 12 feet from screen.

TIA both.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Cyborg_Optoma said:


> between the 2 which one is best.. looking at the pic.. matte white seems to show more bright picture compared to ALR ? is it right ? but are blacks gray on matte white ?


No, the ALR has a higher gain than the matte white (MW), and will show a brighter picture near the middle part of the screen. The brightness falls off towards the edges, however, so the MW will be brighter on the edges.

Please note that, in order to show the difference in the contrast, I "equalized" the brightness of the pictures. This is explained in my original review. If I have time, I will post an "enequalized" version of the pictures.

With a good projector *and* a light controlled viewing environment (no ambient light, dark walls and ceiling), black should be black on even on matte white. If you do not have good light control, then the ambient light or reflected light can make black look dark grey; that's when an ALR screen can help.

Bottom line is:
- if you have good light control, go with the MW
- if you don't have good light control, then decide if you want to live with the reduced contrast, or with the sparklies.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Dominic Chan said:


> Please note that, in order to show the difference in the contrast, I "equalized" the brightness of the pictures. This is explained in my original review. If I have time, I will post an "enequalized" version of the pictures.


Here are the "unequalized" versions of the comparison: first one with lights on, and the second one with the lights off. In both pictures, the top part corresponds to the ALR, the bottom half MW. You should be able to see the brighter centre and the fall-off towards the edges, on the top part.


----------



## bpassman

*Anyone try a curved ST yet?*

Great thread so far! Anyone try one of their new 2.35:1 Curved screens? I'm thinking of trying the 158" or 138" curved with a JVCx500R or AE8000.


----------



## Dominic Chan

bpassman said:


> Great thread so far! Anyone try one of their new 2.35:1 Curved screens? I'm thinking of trying the 158" or 138" curved with a JVCx500R or AE8000.


I have only "prototyped" a curved screen by bending a sheet of WilsonArt laminate and fixing it on a curved frame. Personally, I did not like the result.

- The mild curvature (7.4" for a 138" screen) does not add significantly to the "immersion effect" at normal viewing distances.
- Because all home projector lenses are designed for a flat screen, the curved screen results in barrel distortion, i.e, the image height at the centre is greater the image height on the two sides. The distortion will be masked by the black velvet frame if you zoom in further to eliminate the black "bars" (or "wedges") on the sides, but that means part of the image is cut off near the centre. It is quite noticeable when the image contains straight lines near the top or bottom

Since these are the result of the geometry of the curved screen, I believe they would be the same on all curved screens, regardless of manufacturer.


----------



## Anthony Cler

The curved screens are intended for use with anamorphic setups.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Anthony Cler said:


> The curved screens are intended for use with anamorphic setups.


Understood. My evaluation was done using a 2.35:1 screen, but using the zoom method (not with anamorphic lens). I'm not sure if the results would be any different with an anamorphic lens, unless the anamorphic lens has a pin-cushion distortion that's offset by the barrel distortion of the curve.


----------



## bpassman

Dominic Chan said:


> Understood. My evaluation was done using a 2.35:1 screen, but using the zoom method (not with anamorphic lens). I'm not sure if the results would be any different with an anamorphic lens, unless the anamorphic lens has a pin-cushion distortion that's offset by the barrel distortion of the curve.


So, (don't kill me purists) why not use the PJs fine picture adjustments to offset that affect or something like warpalizer or pixelwix to perfectly align the image to the curved screen?


----------



## Anthony Cler

Dominic Chan said:


> unless the anamorphic lens has a pin-cushion distortion that's offset by the barrel distortion of the curve.


Yes, the curve of the screen compensates for the distortion created by the A lens.





bpassman said:


> So, (don't kill me purists) why not use the PJs fine picture adjustments to offset that affect or something like warpalizer or pixelwix to perfectly align the image to the curved screen?


Or you could get an anamorphic lens.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Anthony Cler said:


> Yes, the curve of the screen compensates for the distortion created by the A lens.
> Or you could get an anamorphic lens.


Actually it goes farther than that. In order to get a "symmetrical distortion" that can be cancelled out by the A lens, the projector must be located at the same height as the centre of the screen. If the projector height is near the top of the screen (as would be the case with most ceiling mounted setups), the top edge would have no distortion; all the distortion would show up at the bottom edge.

I suspect most people look at curved screens to get the "immersion effect". In particular, non-projection curved screens will not have geometric distortions to deal with, other than the perspective effect (the side edges being closer to the eyes than the centre, compared with a flat TV).


----------



## Cyborg_Optoma

Dominic Chan said:


> No, the ALR has a higher gain than the matte white (MW), and will show a brighter picture near the middle part of the screen. The brightness falls off towards the edges, however, so the MW will be brighter on the edges.
> 
> Please note that, in order to show the difference in the contrast, I "equalized" the brightness of the pictures. This is explained in my original review. If I have time, I will post an "enequalized" version of the pictures.
> 
> With a good projector *and* a light controlled viewing environment (no ambient light, dark walls and ceiling), black should be black on even on matte white. If you do not have good light control, then the ambient light or reflected light can make black look dark grey; that's when an ALR screen can help.
> 
> Bottom line is:
> - if you have good light control, go with the MW
> - if you don't have good light control, then decide if you want to live with the reduced contrast, or with the sparklies.





Dominic Chan said:


> Here are the "unequalized" versions of the comparison: first one with lights on, and the second one with the lights off. In both pictures, the top part corresponds to the ALR, the bottom half MW. You should be able to see the brighter centre and the fall-off towards the edges, on the top part.




Thanks again..

which PJ do you have ?

I have Sony VPLH-W40ES and i think i would need a grey screen and this ALR is grey silver so it can improve the black level a little bit.. if i go white matte I think i might not be able to improve black levels and they might come out as grey..


----------



## Dominic Chan

Cyborg_Optoma said:


> which PJ do you have ?
> 
> I have Sony VPLH-W40ES and i think i would need a grey screen and this ALR is grey silver so it can improve the black level a little bit.. if i go white matte I think i might not be able to improve black levels and they might come out as grey..


I'm not a big fan of matte grey screens.

Let's say you calibrate your HW40 on a white screen to give a white point of 50 cd/m^2 (about 15 ftL, typical for home theatre projectors). With a 50,000:1 contrast ratio, your black will be at about 0.01 cd/m^2, which is quite decent.

If you switch to a matte grey screen while keeping the projector settings the same, the black will be 10~20% "darker", which is not that noticeable, especially since your white point will drop by the same %. Not only that, if you then increase your projector luminance to bring back the 50 cd/m^2, the black will also go back to the same level as before.

A matte grey will help the contrast somewhat if ambient light is the limiting factor, but it will not improve the contrast ratio of the image if the limiting factor is the projector.


----------



## mishari84

Dominic Chan said:


> I'm not a big fan of matte grey screens.
> 
> Let's say you calibrate your HW40 on a white screen to give a white point of 50 cd/m^2 (about 15 ftL, typical for home theatre projectors). With a 50,000:1 contrast ratio, your black will be at about 0.01 cd/m^2, which is quite decent.
> 
> If you switch to a matte grey screen while keeping the projector settings the same, the black will be 10~20% "darker", which is not that noticeable, especially since your white point will drop by the same %. Not only that, if you then increase your projector luminance to bring back the 50 cd/m^2, the black will also go back to the same level as before.
> 
> A matte grey will help the contrast somewhat if ambient light is the limiting factor, but it will not improve the contrast ratio of the image if the limiting factor is the projector.


for ALR, projector should be at a distance of 150% of screen width to eliminate sparkles and hotspotting, and ceiling mounted for angular projection. Was this the case for your setup?

thank you for the helpful comparison


----------



## Dominic Chan

mishari84 said:


> for ALR, projector should be at a distance of 150% of screen width to eliminate sparkles and hotspotting, and ceiling mounted for angular projection. Was this the case for your setup?


I have a 115" diagonal (105" wide) screen, with the projector ceiling mounted about 160" away, so it's slightly less than 150%. With most movies, the hotspotting is actually not very noticeable.

The visibility of the sparkles depends on the viewing distance, _not_ the projector-to-screen distance or the screen size. For the Silver Ticket ALR screen, I would definitely suggest a minimum distance of 12", or more. It would interesting to see how other ALR screens (e.g., Elite Cinegrey 5D) compare.


----------



## mishari84

Dominic Chan said:


> I have a 115" diagonal (105" wide) screen, with the projector ceiling mounted about 160" away, so it's slightly less than 150%. With most movies, the hotspotting is actually not very noticeable.
> 
> The visibility of the sparkles depends on the viewing distance, _not_ the projector-to-screen distance or the screen size.


the rule for ALR is throw distance 1.5 of screen width, to combat hotspotting, sparkles and light uniformity.

your setup is correct.


----------



## ERuiz

mishari84 said:


> the rule for ALR is throw distance 1.5 of screen width, to combat hotspotting, sparkles and light uniformity.
> 
> 
> 
> your setup is correct.



In my case this didn't help at all. As a matter of fact, my projector is 15'-3" from the screen (183") projecting a 115" wide image with a seating distance of 11' and the sparklies were intolerable. Hotspotting was almost a non-issue, but the sparklies were readily visible and affected the IQ.


----------



## Dominic Chan

mishari84 said:


> the rule for ALR is throw distance 1.5 of screen width, to combat sparkles....


Don't know who established the "rule", but I don't see how the visibilities of sparkles has anything to do the throw distance or screen width. It's the viewing distance, period.


----------



## acmeavs

Dominic Chan said:


> I'm not a big fan of matte grey screens.
> 
> Let's say you calibrate your HW40 on a white screen to give a white point of 50 cd/m^2 (about 15 ftL, typical for home theatre projectors). With a 50,000:1 contrast ratio, your black will be at about 0.01 cd/m^2, which is quite decent.
> 
> If you switch to a matte grey screen while keeping the projector settings the same, the black will be 10~20% "darker", which is not that noticeable, especially since your white point will drop by the same %. Not only that, if you then increase your projector luminance to bring back the 50 cd/m^2, the black will also go back to the same level as before.
> 
> A matte grey will help the contrast somewhat if ambient light is the limiting factor, but it will not improve the contrast ratio of the image if the limiting factor is the projector.


I have been told that Matte Gray screens help the perceived contrast level. Your eyes can't tell the difference between 50 cd/m^2 and 45 cd/m^2 unless there is a side by side comparison. The idea being the gray material tricks your eyes into believing the contrast between the darker screen material and the projector colors are better than that of a white screen.

I am thinking a gray screen would benefit me in my situation. I am in the military and move around every couple of years. I cannot guarantee good lighting conditions in the room every time I move. In my next house, the walls, ceiling, and floor are all light colored. Additionally, the wife cannot stand complete darkness. My thought process is the Matte Gray will help the perceived contrast in a non ideal room while still avoiding hotspotting / sparklies. 

*SIDE NOTE:*
I appreciate all the comments, comparisons, and experience on this forum. I also appreciate the pictures (Dominic Chan and others). All of which has helped me in the decision making process.


----------



## Dominic Chan

acmeavs said:


> I am thinking a gray screen would benefit me in my situation. I am in the military and move around every couple of years. I cannot guarantee good lighting conditions in the room every time I move. In my next house, the walls, ceiling, and floor are all light colored.


Yes, a matte grey will help improve the contrast when you have limited light control. I have compared samples from Carada Classic Cinema White, Brilliant White, High Contrast Grey. As stated in my previous post, 


> A matte grey will help the contrast somewhat if ambient light is the limiting factor, but it will not improve the contrast ratio of the image if the limiting factor is the projector.


----------



## therealdjnugz

I own a 100" grey silver ticket screen, and I get the sparkles on really bright scenes that have white. This being the only projector screen I've owned, I didn't know it was due to it being a grey screen, and was going to buy another screen in hopes that the sparkle would go away. Is the sparkle something that happens with grey screens in general? Also on brighter scenes, I can faintly see the outlines of the support bar because its pushing on the screen. So I'm hoping if I try a white screen, these issues will go away. I'll simply not install the support bar. Anyone else have issues of seeing the outline of the support bar?


----------



## acmeavs

therealdjnugz said:


> I own a 100" grey silver ticket screen, and I get the sparkles on really bright scenes that have white. This being the only projector screen I've owned, I didn't know it was due to it being a grey screen, and was going to buy another screen in hopes that the sparkle would go away. Is the sparkle something that happens with grey screens in general? Also on brighter scenes, I can faintly see the outlines of the support bar because its pushing on the screen. So I'm hoping if I try a white screen, these issues will go away. I'll simply not install the support bar. Anyone else have issues of seeing the outline of the support bar?


Do you have a Matte Gray screen or a ALR screen? What is the gain? I have only heard of sparklies on ALR screens with an increased gain (1.3 or greater.)


----------



## Dominic Chan

therealdjnugz said:


> I can faintly see the outlines of the support bar because its pushing on the screen.


Not sure if they changed the thickness of the support bar, but I don't have that problem with my 115" 2.35 screen. There's actually a small gap between the support bar and the screen material; I have to push the screen in by about 1/8" before I feel the bar behind it.


----------



## therealdjnugz

Dominic Chan said:


> Not sure if they changed the thickness of the support bar, but I don't have that problem with my 115" 2.35 screen. There's actually a small gap between the support bar and the screen material; I have to put the screen in by about 1/8" before I feel the bar behind it.


The support bar on mine is pushing on the screen. If i run my fingers gently across the screen I can feel it. I bought the screen almost a year ago.


----------



## therealdjnugz

acmeavs said:


> Do you have a Matte Gray screen or a ALR screen? What is the gain? I have only heard of sparklies on ALR screens with an increased gain (1.3 or greater.)


 it's just a matte grey screen. It has a 1.0 gain.


----------



## Cyborg_Optoma

Dominic Chan said:


> I'm not a big fan of matte grey screens.
> 
> Let's say you calibrate your HW40 on a white screen to give a white point of 50 cd/m^2 (about 15 ftL, typical for home theatre projectors). With a 50,000:1 contrast ratio, your black will be at about 0.01 cd/m^2, which is quite decent.
> 
> If you switch to a matte grey screen while keeping the projector settings the same, the black will be 10~20% "darker", which is not that noticeable, especially since your white point will drop by the same %. Not only that, if you then increase your projector luminance to bring back the 50 cd/m^2, the black will also go back to the same level as before.
> 
> A matte grey will help the contrast somewhat if ambient light is the limiting factor, but it will not improve the contrast ratio of the image if the limiting factor is the projector.


Thanks.. 

its too technical for me who is naive to all this 

I was just saying the ALR is a silver grey screen right ? 

my projector is 15 feet from screen which is diagonally ~134" is the 1.5 applicable to me.. need to do calculations.. i sit around 11 or 12 feet away from screen and the sparkles are only visible when its a bright image being projected and provide some grainy look on the screen... otherwise the screen is awesome... so i was just trying to get an idea if matte white would be good... but given my projector..i think the blacks are not dead black and this silver grey screen material used in ALR helps a little bit in boosting the black levels and at same time provide brightness due to sparkles or silver material used in screen at times and also able to watch it if light is on... I am i correct ?

TIA


----------



## Dominic Chan

Cyborg_Optoma said:


> I was just saying the ALR is a silver grey screen right ?


Yes, the Silver Ticket ALR is the silver grey one.



> my projector is 15 feet from screen which is diagonally ~134" is the 1.5 applicable to me.. need to do calculations..


The HW40ES is one of the brightest projectors in the "calibrated" mode, and should be able to light up a 134" screen without a gain boost; i.e., the matte white should give you adequate brightness. However, since you already have the ALR screen, you should be able to judge if you have the room to spare. The "unequalized" comparison pictures I posted should give you a good idea what the difference is in brightness between the two screens.



> i think the blacks are not dead black and this silver grey screen material used in ALR helps a little bit in boosting the black levels


Let me elaborate on my previous reply:
If the projected image does not have "dead black", there are three possibilities:
1. Existing ambient light. If you turn the projector off but keep everything else the same as if you were watching a movie, is the screen "dead black", or can you clearly see it as "dim white"? If the latter, try to eliminate whatever the light source is.
2. Reflected ambient light. When projecting a bright image, go to the screen position and look back. Other than the projector itself, can you see anything else (walls, ceilings, flooring, etc.) that is lit up? The reflected light will make the black parts of the image look grey.
3. The limited contrast ratio of the projector. This can only be confirmed after ruling out 1 & 2 above.

What I was saying in the previous reply, is that
- a matte grey screen will help in Case 1 if the projector has sufficient brightness, but _not_ in Case 2
- an ALR screen will help in both Case 1 and Case 2, as long as the ambient light does not come from the same direction as the projector itself
- neither the grey screen nor the ALR screen can do anything about Case 3; however, since in real life the situation is often a combination of all three factors, they may help somewhat overall.

Not everyone may agree with these conclusions, but they are based on "physics" and confirmed by my actual experience.


----------



## Dominic Chan

therealdjnugz said:


> The support bar on mine is pushing on the screen. If i run my fingers gently across the screen I can feel it. I bought the screen almost a year ago.


I guess something has been changed. Come to think of it, the support bar is the same thickness, not _thinner_ than the frame. As mentioned in one of my earlier posts, when I inserted the support bar, it stuck out of the back by about 1/8", which leaves a gap on the front side, behind the screen material.


----------



## Thain

Was reading this thread and saw the alr screen. The $$$ make me want to try it. Not sure if it'll go with my setup. I have a 1080st, it's 150" picture ceiling mounted around 9' from the screen. Seating is 12'-13'. Would this be to close to the screen for the alr? use a grey paint screen now and it's my main TV for the house so we watch everything on it. What do you guys think should I give it a try? 

Thxs
Thain


----------



## Dominic Chan

Thain said:


> Was reading this thread and saw the alr screen. The $$$ make me want to try it. Not sure if it'll go with my setup. I have a 1080st, it's 150" picture ceiling mounted around 9' from the screen. Seating is 12'-13'. Would this be to close to the screen for the alr? use a grey paint screen now and it's my main TV for the house so we watch everything on it. What do you guys think should I give it a try?


Usually ALR screens are not recommended to be used with short-throw projectors as hot spotting can be very noticeable.


----------



## ben38

Thain said:


> Was reading this thread and saw the alr screen. The $$$ make me want to try it. Not sure if it'll go with my setup. I have a 1080st, it's 150" picture ceiling mounted around 9' from the screen. Seating is 12'-13'. Would this be to close to the screen for the alr? use a grey paint screen now and it's my main TV for the house so we watch everything on it. What do you guys think should I give it a try?
> 
> Thxs
> Thain


 A short throw projector's angle of projection is very steep. The ALR screen would not work very well in your case. The grey paint screen you use now is probably what you should stay with.


----------



## therealdjnugz

Dominic Chan said:


> I guess something has been changed. Come to think of it, the support bar is the same thickness, not _thinner_ than the frame. As mentioned in one of my earlier posts, when I inserted the support bar, it stuck out of the back by about 1/8", which leaves a gap on the front side, behind the screen material.


I could very well of pushed the support bar in too much . I do remember having a very difficult time getting the support bar in. Regardless, I do want to try a white screen. Has anyone that owned a silver ticket screen, own a more expensive screen? I'm curious how the silver ticket screens compare to the more expensive brands.


----------



## Dominic Chan

therealdjnugz said:


> I'm curious how the silver ticket screens compare to the more expensive brands.


You might have seen it already, but there's a review comparing the matte white Silver Ticket screen against the much more expensive ones:
http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-projector-screen/


----------



## therealdjnugz

Dominic Chan said:


> You might have seen it already, but there's a review comparing the matte white Silver Ticket screen against the much more expensive ones:
> http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-projector-screen/


Just read it. Thanks!


----------



## shad0019

Does anyone have a comparison image of the ALR screen next to the Grey, without an image on it? I would like to see how dark the grey is since they do not make a curved screen in the ALR material.


----------



## shad0019

Also has anyone else noticed the odd dimensions of their 2.35:1 screens? The 115" measures 113" diagonally according to their specs. The 125" measures 128" diagonally. Their specs do not match equally between their screen sizes.


----------



## Dominic Chan

shad0019 said:


> Also has anyone else noticed the odd dimensions of their 2.35:1 screens? The 115" measures 113" diagonally according to their specs. The 125" measures 128" diagonally. Their specs do not match equally between their screen sizes.


The spec is not quite right. For my 115" screen, the actual viewing area width is 106" instead of the specified 104.5", making the diagonal almost exactly 115". I don't know about the 125".

[Edit 2015/07/08: the specified dimensions on their website have now been corrected]


----------



## Dominic Chan

shad0019 said:


> Does anyone have a comparison image of the ALR screen next to the Grey, without an image on it? I would like to see how dark the grey is since they do not make a curved screen in the ALR material.


They have a side-by-side picture of the different screen materials on their website, although I'm not sure how well-controlled the exposures were.
http://silverticketproducts.com/catalog/screen-materials


----------



## ArtVandeley

Do you guys think that a 92" Silver Ticket screen will look better with my Epson 8500ub than the 92" of cheapo screen material I bought from fleaBay for $60? 

The $60 screen I have is made of PVC, it's white on front and black in the back. It was advertised as having 1.0 gain. The main problem I have is that the image seems lower contrast than I would expect. Especially in scenes of medium brightness. The walls in my room are black. The ceiling is mostly white but painted black about 4 feet out from the edge of the wall where the screen is mounted currently. Carpet is grey. I can block out all light from outside and create a pitch black room, so combined with the large amount of black in the room I do not believe ambient light from the projector itself is the issue. Also I can easily see the texture of the screen in bright seems which ruins immersion for me. 

I've attached a close up image of the screen material so someone hopefully confirm that it is as exceptionally bad as I'm hoping it is. (Would rather not buy a new projector or do more work on the room for a couple years at least)

I am projecting from a shelf about mid screen height 13" away from the screen If my calculations are right even in eco mode the 8500ub is more than bright enough to project a 92" image?


----------



## Swolephile

Now that I've used a Silver Ticket ALR screen with a low lumens projector and a high lumens projector I can give a more balanced opinion for it. It works great at reflecting light for a watchable image with some ambient light present. With a low lumens projector the graininess and sparkles are much less evident.

However with higher lumens the graininess is much more apparent. I only see one sparkle and no hot spotting though. The graininess is bearable for me however it can be seen in very bright scenes.

My best advice is to only pair this higher gain screen with a lower lumens projector for best results and minimum artifacts. It still looks great to me with lower lumens. Also, I noticed my first screen was much grainier and it placed a greyish tint to my colors. The second ALR screen does not have the "dirty window tint effect" so it seems there are some abnormalities with some of the screen material Silver Ticket is sending out.


----------



## Dominic Chan

ArtVandeley said:


> I can block out all light from outside and create a pitch black room, so combined with the large amount of black in the room I do not believe ambient light from the projector itself is the issue.


How deep is the black when you display an ANSI checker-board pattern with the projector's auto-aris turned off? If it looks grey-ish, it's most likely the projector's limitation and not the screen.



> Also I can easily see the texture of the screen in bright seems which ruins immersion for me.
> I've attached a close up image of the screen material so someone hopefully confirm that it is as exceptionally bad as I'm hoping it is.


I'm not sure what big an area (in real screen size) that close up image covers. However, it does look so bad that it would visible 10-12 ft away.


----------



## ArtVandeley

Dominic Chan said:


> How deep is the black when you display an ANSI checker-board pattern with the projector's auto-aris turned off? If it looks grey-ish, it's most likely the projector's limitation and not the screen.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure what big an area (in real screen size) that close up image covers. However, it does look so bad that it would visible 10-12 ft away.


It looks pretty deep black, it is an Epson ultra black so it should have reasonable contrast on its own I would think. That image is about 6*8 inches.


----------



## Dominic Chan

ArtVandeley said:


> It looks pretty deep black, it is an Epson ultra black so it should have reasonable contrast on its own I would think.


If the black parts of the checker blocks look deep black then the image shouldn't lack contrast, unless there's some diffusion or "bleeding" of light from the white to the black at the micro level.

For really dark scenes, the "blackness" would be determined by the projector and the ambient light, not the screen.


Have you tried using a high gamma setting (e.g., 2.4 instead of 2.2)?


----------



## ArtVandeley

Dominic Chan said:


> Have you tried using a high gamma setting (e.g., 2.4 instead of 2.2)?


I will try that next time I watch a movie.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Dominic Chan said:


> I did a comparison in an earlier post in this thread:
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-8.html#post34897441


"Inspired" by the posts on the Elite Screens CineGrey 5D, I ran some more tests on the Silver Ticket ALR screen, measuring the gain relative to a sheet of of white paper.

The first picture shows the screen illuminated by the projector. Both the projector and the viewing position are about 13' from the screen. The measured gain is about 1.5 near the "sweet spot", falling to 0.7 at the corner, i.e., the centre-to-corner gain fall-off is just over 50%.

The second picture shows the screen illuminated by 3 nearby 50W potlights. The "gains", again relative to the white paper, are 0.56 and 0.39.

Based on the above, the ambient light "rejection ratio" is around 2.6 near the centre, and 1.8 near the corner.

Link to the CineGrey test:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/585554-official-elite-screen-thread-64.html#post35579602


----------



## Cyborg_Optoma

Dominic Chan said:


> "Inspired" by the posts on the Elite Screens CineGrey 5D, I ran some more tests on the Silver Ticket ALR screen, measuring the gain relative to a sheet of of white paper.
> 
> The first picture shows the screen illuminated by the projector. Both the projector and the viewing position are about 13' from the screen. The measured gain is about 1.5 near the "sweet spot", falling to 0.7 at the corner, i.e., the centre-to-corner gain fall-off is just over 50%.
> 
> The second picture shows the screen illuminated by 3 nearby 50W potlights. The "gains", again relative to the white paper, are 0.56 and 0.39.
> 
> Based on the above, the ambient light "rejection ratio" is around 2.6 near the centre, and 1.8 near the corner.
> 
> Link to the CineGrey test:
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/585554-official-elite-screen-thread-64.html#post35579602


Thank You

knoob here..How are you calculating these ?

TIA


ignore my ignorance if my question is wrong 

Based on the above, the ambient light "rejection ratio" is around 2.6 near the centre, and 1.8 near the corner.
so I believe the gain of 1.5 said by the ALR is more at center when no ambient light is there ? and it is actually more than 1.5 when no light is there on the whole screen ?

but when light is on it is very less.. is ALR supposed to have provided us gain close to 1.5 when light is on ?


----------



## Dominic Chan

Cyborg_Optoma said:


> so I believe the gain of 1.5 said by the ALR is more at center when no ambient light is there ?


The rated ALR gains are always at the "sweet spot". Depending on the relative positions of the projector and the viewer, it's not necessary at the centre, although one should try to get the sweet spot to be as close to the centre as possible.



> it is actually more than 1.5 when no light is there on the whole screen ?


The contrast ratio obviously will increase when "no light is there on the whole screen", but the gain does not increase


----------



## BladeZX

I am looking at replacing my screen with a Silver Ticket screen.
I own an Epson Powerlite Home Cinema 1080 projector which has been for many years
Where in Canada can I buy one?

Thanks


----------



## Dominic Chan

BladeZX said:


> Where in Canada can I buy one?


I ordered mine directly from Silver Ticket
http://silverticketproducts.com/catalog/projection-screens

Shipping cost $60 and took one week to arrive. There was no duty but HST was collected on delivery, together with a brokage fee of $10.


----------



## BladeZX

Thanks.
I actually ordered it from Newegg and had it shipped for free to my brokerage place at the border.

I currently have an Epson Powerlite Home Cinema 1080 projector (it is at least 5-6 years old)
This is the one I have:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-PowerLite_Home_Cinema_1080.htm

I am wondering if it is worth to upgrade it and what projector would be as good or better and be reasonable on price. I would like to add the ability to view my 3D movies
Is there a Benq or Epson projector out now that would be noticibly better than what I have?

Thanks


----------



## therealdjnugz

BladeZX said:


> Thanks.
> I actually ordered it from Newegg and had it shipped for free to my brokerage place at the border.
> 
> I currently have an Epson Powerlite Home Cinema 1080 projector (it is at least 5-6 years old)
> This is the one I have:
> 
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-PowerLite_Home_Cinema_1080.htm
> 
> I am wondering if it is worth to upgrade it and what projector would be as good or better and be reasonable on price. I would like to add the ability to view my 3D movies
> Is there a Benq or Epson projector out now that would be noticibly better than what I have?
> 
> Thanks


What's your budget? There's definitely better projectors out there but it all depends on how much you're willing to spend.


----------



## BladeZX

therealdjnugz said:


> What's your budget? There's definitely better projectors out there but it all depends on how much you're willing to spend.


I have been looking at the Epson 3020. Is it a step above what I currently have.
I see the 3020 does not have lens shift. On mine I have both horizonal and vertical lens shift which is helpful
I would say around $1500 is my budget right now


----------



## Dominic Chan

BladeZX said:


> I would say around $1500 is my budget right now


If you can stretch your budget somewhat, you can get the 5030UB for around $1900 including a free lamp from Epson.


----------



## therealdjnugz

Dominic Chan said:


> If you can stretch your budget somewhat, you can get the 5030UB for around $1900 including a free lamp from Epson.


That's exactly what I was going to say. Or get the 5025 which is $300 less and comes with the free bulb. After the free bulb, either one would be worth spending the extra money. The spare bulb makes up for the extra money spent. I almost got the 3500 but after seeing the 5025 on sale I bought that instead and is definitely a better projector and worth it's cost.


----------



## BladeZX

I have been reading reviews on the BenQ w0170 and I must say that I am impressed so far.
My epson is an LCD projector but I did own an Infocus X1 when it first came out and it was amazing for the price.
I did not really see any RBE with my DLP and I am sure the w1070 would be the same.

I would like 2D and 3D as I have a lot of 3D MKVs. I currently use my Panasonic plasma 50" and it works good but it is not in my theater room 

Any thoughts on the w1070?


----------



## therealdjnugz

BladeZX said:


> I have been reading reviews on the BenQ w0170 and I must say that I am impressed so far.
> My epson is an LCD projector but I did own an Infocus X1 when it first came out and it was amazing for the price.
> I did not really see any RBE with my DLP and I am sure the w1070 would be the same.
> 
> I would like 2D and 3D as I have a lot of 3D MKVs. I currently use my Panasonic plasma 50" and it works good but it is not in my theater room
> 
> Any thoughts on the w1070?


It's one of the better projectors in its price range, but if you really want quality you're going to have to spend twice what the BenQ costs.


----------



## Dominic Chan

BladeZX said:


> Any thoughts on the w1070?


You mentioned lens shift in your previous post; the w1070 does not have horizontal shift and has _very_ limited vertical shift. It also has a very limited zoom ratio (1.3).
It's a nice projector for the price, but I don't thinkk it's in the same league as your Epson 1080, other than lumens and 3D.


----------



## Swolephile

I recently changed to a Epson HC-3500. Much better placement with lens shift. Now the graininess with 120" Silver Ticker screen is almost completely gone and the picture looks fantastic. Placement is key with these alr screens. It can make all the difference.


----------



## therealdjnugz

Swolephile said:


> I recently changed to a Epson HC-3500. Much better placement with lens shift. Now the graininess with 120" Silver Ticker screen is almost completely gone and the picture looks fantastic. Placement is key with these alr screens. It can make all the difference.


What projector were you using before? I'd think the new projectors PQ plays a bigger role than the placement as far as grain is concerned. With better lens ****, you'd be able to place the projector is less than optimal positioning so I'm kind of confused on what you're saying.


----------



## Swolephile

therealdjnugz said:


> What projector were you using before? I'd think the new projectors PQ plays a bigger role than the placement as far as grain is concerned. With better lens ****, you'd be able to place the projector is less than optimal positioning so I'm kind of confused on what you're saying.


My position is less than optimal. It is off center to the left of my couch. The center of my screen lines up with the end of my couch on its left side. I was using a horizontal keystone adjustment before but picture quality suffered due to it. With the lens shift picture quality is great and graininess is pretty much gone. I love this screen.Just wish I had a smaller version of it.


----------



## therealdjnugz

Swolephile said:


> My position is less than optimal. It is off center to the left of my couch. The center of my screen lines up with the end of my couch on its left side. I was using a horizontal keystone adjustment before but picture quality suffered due to it. With the lens shift picture quality is great and graininess is pretty much gone. I love this screen.Just wish I had a smaller version of it.


Ahh I see. Didn't realize you were using keystone. That'll do it!


----------



## therealdjnugz

I have a 100" screen and sit s little less than 10 feet from it and think it's the perfect size . I've also never owned anything bigger or smaller so nothing to really compare it to.


----------



## therealdjnugz

I almost bought the 3500 but changed my mind last minute. Seems like a really good projector especially at it's price.


----------



## Swolephile

therealdjnugz said:


> I have a 100" screen and sit s little less than 10 feet from it and think it's the perfect size . I've also never owned anything bigger or smaller so nothing to really compare it to.


I prefer picture quality, sharpness, and brightness over just raw size. Ive experimented with screen sizes from 80" to 140". I strongly believe 100-110" is the perfect combo of size and clarity for anyone sitting less than 15ft away from their screen.


----------



## therealdjnugz

Swolephile said:


> I prefer picture quality, sharpness, and brightness over just raw size. Ive experimented with screen sizes from 80" to 140". I strongly believe 100-110" is the perfect combo of size and clarity for anyone sitting less than 15ft away from their screen.


For sure. I couldn't agree anymore!


----------



## GCS

I am thinking of picking up this screen in the 135" variety and pairing it with either my existing BenQ 1070 which needs a new bulb or an Epson 3500 which I have on loan now. Our main seating is about 16 1/2 feet away from the screen, second row about 19 feet away. Room is 24x24x10

Currently using a 120" 15 year old Dalite Cinemavision screen (gain I think is 1.1 maybe who knows).

Would I be better off going with the ALR screen, white screen or their grey screen. We use it for movies and LOTS of TV in our family room. We do have light control but rarely go "batcave" mode except for dedicated movie nights (like Sharknado night tonight for my wife and her friends).


----------



## therealdjnugz

GCS said:


> I am thinking of picking up this screen in the 135" variety and pairing it with either my existing BenQ 1070 which needs a new bulb or an Epson 3500 which I have on loan now. Our main seating is about 16 1/2 feet away from the screen, second row about 19 feet away. Room is 24x24x10
> 
> Currently using a 120" 15 year old Dalite Cinemavision screen (gain I think is 1.1 maybe who knows).
> 
> Would I be better off going with the ALR screen, white screen or their grey screen. We use it for movies and LOTS of TV in our family room. We do have light control but rarely go "batcave" mode except for dedicated movie nights (like Sharknado night tonight for my wife and her friends).


My Epson 5025ub is in my living room as well. I have the 100" grey screen. Pretty happy with it. With some lights on it works very well. I was actually watching the new SpongeBob movie in 3d the other night, and my wife turned on the living room light and the picture was still very bright and I honestly thought it looked good. During the afternoon with the curtains open is a different story, but my window is huge. Its probably 4x9 feet. The image gets washed out. I have to have the curtains closed during the afternoon. Later isn the day when it isnt as bright out its watchable with the curtains opened. I've never owned the white or ALR screen so just my two cents.


----------



## tjtv

*ripples in screen*

I just bought the 135" 16:9 white silver ticket screen. I got it all setup, but haven't hung it on the wall yet. I see ripples on the screen. This does not look normal to me, would you agree?

The picture is a pretty close up, but I can see these ripples barely from the seating position.

When trying to tension the screen, it seemed VERY tight from left to right, but fairly loose from top to bottom. Not sure if that is expected or not, and whether or not that may be contributing to the problem.


----------



## therealdjnugz

tjtv said:


> I just bought the 135" 16:9 white silver ticket screen. I got it all setup, but haven't hung it on the wall yet. I see ripples on the screen. This does not look normal to me, would you agree?
> 
> The picture is a pretty close up, but I can see these ripples barely from the seating position.
> 
> When trying to tension the screen, it seemed VERY tight from left to right, but fairly loose from top to bottom. Not sure if that is expected or not, and whether or not that may be contributing to the problem.


No, that is not normal and looks horrible. You should contact Silver Ticket and get a replacement. It should be completely smoothe. Even before installing mine, the screen material mine didn't look like that.


----------



## therealdjnugz

Also it should be completely tight in each direction. It shouldn't be loose. Maybe try taking it apart and reinstalling it before calling for a replacement to see if the ripples go away.


----------



## tjtv

Thanks, I've contacted them. Hopefully it will just be the screen material that needs to be replaced, I'd hate to have to put that entire frame together all over again.


----------



## therealdjnugz

tjtv said:


> Thanks, I've contacted them. Hopefully it will just be the screen material that needs to be replaced, I'd hate to have to put that entire frame together all over again.


That's what it looks like to me. Let us know how it plays out.


----------



## ERuiz

tjtv said:


> I just bought the 135" 16:9 white silver ticket screen. I got it all setup, but haven't hung it on the wall yet. I see ripples on the screen. This does not look normal to me, would you agree?
> 
> The picture is a pretty close up, but I can see these ripples barely from the seating position.
> 
> When trying to tension the screen, it seemed VERY tight from left to right, but fairly loose from top to bottom. Not sure if that is expected or not, and whether or not that may be contributing to the problem.



Seems like Silver Ticket's QC department has been slacking as of late. My 3rd and FINAL screen from them was returned due to having exactly the same ripples on screen material and the fact that the screen was not the correct size for the frame dimensions.

Apparently they included the screen material for a smaller sized frame. I returned it and went with an Elite Screen instead.

Like they say, you get what you pay for.


----------



## Swolephile

ERuiz said:


> Seems like Silver Ticket's QC department has been slacking as of late. My 3rd and FINAL screen from them was returned due to having exactly the same ripples on screen material and the fact that the screen was not the correct size for the frame dimensions.
> 
> Apparently they included the screen material for a smaller sized frame. I returned it and went with an Elite Screen instead.
> 
> Like they say, you get what you pay for.


Heaven forbid you have any issues and have to deal with Elite Screens customer service or lack thereof.


----------



## ERuiz

Swolephile said:


> Heaven forbid you have any issues and have to deal with Elite Screens customer service or lack thereof.



Now that you mention it... My Elite Screen arrived and was missing a couple of retaining clips, a few screws and the lower right and right beams had scuffed marks on the velvety finish. Mind you I purchased this screen from Amazon, I still went ahead and filed a warranty claim through Elite's website and the same day, I received an email acknowledging my request. The following day, I received another email with a FedEx tracking number where it stated my parts had already been shipped. This included the 2 beams, clips and screws. No complaints on my part with Elite's customer service. They came through without hesitation, even though I didn't buy directly from them.


Silver Ticket on the other hand, were the complete opposite. I also bought their screen from Amazon but when I called them to let them know the screen material that came with the purchase was too small for the frame, they blew me off by saying the screen was purchased through Amazon, so I had to deal with Amazon instead. That same day the screen was back in it's box and headed back to Amazon for a complete refund which I used to purchase the Elite screen.


----------



## Swolephile

ERuiz said:


> Now that you mention it... My Elite Screen arrived and was missing a couple of retaining clips, a few screws and the lower right and right beams had scuffed marks on the velvety finish. Mind you I purchased this screen from Amazon, I still went ahead and filed a warranty claim through Elite's website and the same day, I received an email acknowledging my request. The following day, I received another email with a FedEx tracking number where it stated my parts had already been shipped. This included the 2 beams, clips and screws. No complaints on my part with Elite's customer service. They came through without hesitation, even though I didn't buy directly from them.
> 
> 
> Silver Ticket on the other hand, were the complete opposite. I also bought their screen from Amazon but when I called them to let them know the screen material that came with the purchase was too small for the frame, they blew me off by saying the screen was purchased through Amazon, so I had to deal with Amazon instead. That same day the screen was back in it's box and headed back to Amazon for a complete refund which I used to purchase the Elite screen.


Try contacting Elite Screens customer service directly and you will see what I'm speaking of.


----------



## Dominic Chan

tjtv said:


> I just bought the 135" 16:9 white silver ticket screen. I got it all setup, but haven't hung it on the wall yet. I see ripples on the screen. This does not look normal to me, would you agree?


The ripples may be from the material being kept in the roll for too long. Give it a few days and see if they go away. 



> When trying to tension the screen, it seemed VERY tight from left to right, but fairly loose from top to bottom.


Are you referring to hooking the tensioning rods over the "snap lugs"? The top/bottom ones will be more loose, but will be tight after the vertical tensioning bar is inserted. Some people actually find it difficult to insert the bar; you may have to use a hammer for that.


----------



## ERuiz

Swolephile said:


> Try contacting Elite Screens customer service directly and you will see what I'm speaking of.



I did and spoke with a live person. She was the one who told me that I needed to fill out the warranty claim via their website, which I did as soon as I hung up.


----------



## Cyborg_Optoma

@ERuiz 

sorry to hear you had bad experience with silver ticket support..

but please stop bashing them.. the fact that you got missing parts it self from elite screens makes me stay away from them..in the first place..

I had good experience from silver ticket .. i got product from amazon.com but it had some issues and i just sent email to silver ticket support and they sent me new screen no issues..whatsoever..

I think every one always have different experience with customer support.. i have to agree on that..

enjoy your new screen from elite 

TC


----------



## ERuiz

Cyborg_Optoma said:


> @ERuiz
> 
> sorry to hear you had bad experience with silver ticket support..
> 
> but please stop bashing them.. the fact that you got missing parts it self from elite screens makes me stay away from them..in the first place..
> 
> I had good experience from silver ticket .. i got product from amazon.com but it had some issues and i just sent email to silver ticket support and they sent me new screen no issues..whatsoever..
> 
> I think every one always have different experience with customer support.. i have to agree on that..
> 
> enjoy your new screen from elite
> 
> TC



How is posting my experience with ST bashing them? Everyone has different experiences with each vendor and should be able to post these experiences. I'm happy ST helped you with your purchase from Amazon. 

Me on the other hand, got dismissed and told to deal with Amazon even though the screen material was not the correct one for the frame I purchased.

Others have had horrible experiences with Elite yet I was dealt with beauiifully. Instead of getting the runaround, I was shipped the missing parts immediately via FedEx, even though I didn't purchase the screen directly from them.

This is what the forums are for, so people can post their experiences and help others come to an informed decision on where to make their purchases from based on these experiences.


----------



## lemonslush

Anyone have the AT screens? 


I just bought the 16:9 135" and haven't taken it out of the box. figured it was so cheap why not give it a try.


----------



## JasonBrown

lemonslush said:


> Anyone have the AT screens?
> 
> 
> I just bought the 16:9 135" and haven't taken it out of the box. figured it was so cheap why not give it a try.



I helped install/hang a 135" AT screen from Silver Ticket. Went smoothly and intend to hang the one I have soon.


----------



## lemonslush

didn't setup the frame just took the screen material out and it looks the same to my eyes compared to the non AT white screen I have now. Which I think looks great. 

My room is pitch black and I sit 14+ feet away which helps. I was looking to see if the picture was going to be poor or degraded a lot compared to the solid screen. 

I had my wife (assistant) hold up the screen fabric over the existing screen. The ST screen is held 2-3' closer to me than the fixed screen so keep that in mind. and I am standing a tad closer than I would be sitting. 

It looks good to me and my wife also agreed it didnt change the picture quality. I imagine it to only get better with a solid black backing.


If anything I think the AT screen has better black levels. People look for brightness of the screen and they should really focus on black when comparing screens. Just like focusing on reference at seating position. Its a lot easier with a quit room to get excellent SQ at lower volumes.


----------



## hkenshin

Just wanted to post a positive customer service story from silver ticket; I picked up a 120" silver screen from amazon during their anniversary sale. I got it and it was missing all the mounting and assembly hardware; I later realized I ordered it 1 click from amazon warehouse deals (the description i saw later was "like new, damaged box") I contacted ST and they shipped out the parts to me within a day or two, no charge. They had no obligation to do so as I didn't buy it directly from them. Extremely happy with the purchase and outstanding customer service. The assembly while not quite as easy as the 18 minute time lapse video on youtube, but was not nearly as bad as what people made it out to be early in this thread.


----------



## JonnyVee

I use to have a 110" screen via a painted wall, which was painted with Sherwin Williams Duration Satin in Unique Grey. I was actually quite happy with this screen - blacks were nice... Wall was smooth .... and i had no hotspotting. All went to c**p when i decided to go bigger (120") and use ProClassic Satin in Unique Grey. Refinished wall had to many imperfections and the paint hotspotted.

So I decided to buy a 120" Silver Ticket grey screen last week. After setting up, i'd like to comment that I'm very happy with the build quality and screen. Blacks are nice and dark, whites look nice and bright. It easily looks better than my old painted wall (good and bad versions). 

I'm in a light-controlled room and i have a ceiling mounted BenQ w1070 with a 10' throw. Walls and ceiling are dark. 

I also find with this screen that i can have a little more ambient light vs the painted wall.


----------



## merrill219

are their production times still taking forever? or is jamestown a better decision


----------



## JonnyVee

merrill219 said:


> are their production times still taking forever? or is jamestown a better decision


My 120" screen was available on Amazon and only took 2 days to ship using Prime.


----------



## 2muchspl

Newb here, Im still flip floppin over a fixed screen like the ST vs a manual pull down. I love the idea of retracting the screen up due to various nieces & nephews who will have access to my lower level room but cringe at the waves that will eventually show from a manual 120". I cannot afford a tensioned screen. 

Has anyone attempted to make their ST fold to ceiling? Their is a great thread I found [Cant post links yet] by searching 'Swing Up Fixed Frame' and post #27 by Adult Beverage has some great pics.

Additional info: Espon 3020, full light control, mainly movies with 3D 40% of time, very little gaming. Seating 13' from screen,PJ will be closest to screen as I can get while still getting the 120". Room 17Lx13.5Wx8H

Thanks 2 anyone for their time,I wanna click buy today while at work to get things moving. Any issues with my idea or setup Id love to hear them.


----------



## Metric

I just got a 150" screen from Amazon. The material looks too small to me. I mean it should be toight but that's too much surely.


----------



## bouf0010

Metric said:


> I just got a 150" screen from Amazon. The material looks too small to me. I mean it should be toight but that's too much surely.


ya that doesnt look right - send the pic to silver ticket and they'll mail you a new one.


----------



## vivithemage

Nalow said:


> I have the 120" 16:9 fixed-frame screen and the W1070. My viewing distance is between 10'-11'. I think it looks fantastic.
> 
> Anything you want to know in particular?


Did you change any settings? Was it white 1.1 gain white screen?


----------



## Swolephile

I really wish Silver Ticket would offer an edge free screen.


----------



## dlynch34

*curved screen*



bpassman said:


> Hey! I'm looking to upgrade from a Carada 110" & Epson 8350 to the ST 158" Curved 2.35:1 AT screen & JVC X500R. Has anyone tried a Silver Ticket curved model yet that can post some pics?


here is my curve screen


----------



## Nalow

vivithemage said:


> Did you change any settings? Was it white 1.1 gain white screen?


I just have their regular white screen.

I followed these settings exactly and am very happy with the results: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...-usd-msrp/1491630-benq-w1070-calibration.html.


----------



## vivithemage

Nalow said:


> I just have their regular white screen.
> 
> I followed these settings exactly and am very happy with the results: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...-usd-msrp/1491630-benq-w1070-calibration.html.


Awesome, thanks!


----------



## socal swagger

Just placed an order via Amazon for a 150 wish me luck


----------



## Stridulent

Is everyone satisfied with their AUDIO quality from speakers behind the AT version of this screen?


----------



## Spiderm0n

I saw a couple of people went from a DIY spandex to a silver ticket screen. I'm curious if anyone has compared the two, and why they went from one to the other.


----------



## bpassman

dlynch34 said:


> here is my curve screen


Thanks for the pic, post another when you've got it all hooked up and watching a movie.


----------



## P007

Dominic Chan said:


> I'm using the 115" 2.35 Matte White Screen (1.1 Gain) with a JVC RS45, and found that I have to open the aperture almost fully when zoom to fill the width.
> 
> The samples of the silver screen posted by Swolephile were taken at an angle and they look fine.



How far is your RS45 from your screen? I have a X35 and I am trying to decide on what size scree to go with. Thanks for your help.


----------



## Dominic Chan

P007 said:


> How far is your RS45 from your screen?


My projector is about 13 feet from the screen. The lamp has about 700 hours.


----------



## Lnd Svyr

I do not post a lot but thought I would chime in. I just purchased the Silver Ticket 106" white from Amazon. Excellent reviews no matter where you go. Should be here tomorrow late. Hope to assemble Saturday and mount it. I am downsizing from a DIY Carl's blackout cloth screen of 112" so I will have more room for speaker placement--one more speaker to relocate! Hope the ST delivers the goods. Now, if I can keep the cat off of this one....

2015-08-23

Well, NOT better than Carl's blackout cloth in my opinion. PQ sems the same. Great screen, though. Went together relatively well. The center bar was a bear. As long as it lasts as long as my DIY screen, I recommend. I would not build another screen with the cost of blackout cloth these days (more than double what I paid 4 years ago). SO, Silver Ticket is the way to go.


----------



## socal swagger

Just assembled my st 150 went by pretty smoothly


Question, my jamestown screen had a texture feel to it and this screen is a spandex type material is this normal.

Screen does look nice iam just curios I have yet to hang it though


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## socal swagger

Update

Pleased with screen great picture


----------



## docwhorocks

lemonslush said:


> Anyone have the AT screens?
> 
> 
> I just bought the 16:9 135" and haven't taken it out of the box. figured it was so cheap why not give it a try.


I got the 135" AT screen from them a couple weeks ago. Setup was pretty easy. There were some wrinkles in the screen at first. Still have a couple small ones in a corner. But they aren't really noticeable. May just need to replace some of the tension springs. For the price I am very happy with the screen.

I also bought a Silver TIcket PJ mount (got it last week). It has some issues. Followed the youtube tutorials, and tightened everything appropriately. But it doesn't "lock" in place. I have my doubts my PJ will stay in the correct location long term. To get the PJ positioned correctly I had to point it at the ceiling and let it fall into place - this took a while to get it right. Also the the mount was missing the rubber washers - not a big deal but annoying a $0.50 piece was missing. I had some on hand so I used those.


----------



## lemonslush

docwhorocks said:


> I got the 135" AT screen from them a couple weeks ago. Setup was pretty easy. There were some wrinkles in the screen at first. Still have a couple small ones in a corner. But they aren't really noticeable. May just need to replace some of the tension springs. For the price I am very happy with the screen.
> 
> I also bought a Silver TIcket PJ mount (got it last week). It has some issues. Followed the youtube tutorials, and tightened everything appropriately. But it doesn't "lock" in place. I have my doubts my PJ will stay in the correct location long term. To get the PJ positioned correctly I had to point it at the ceiling and let it fall into place - this took a while to get it right. Also the the mount was missing the rubber washers - not a big deal but annoying a $0.50 piece was missing. I had some on hand so I used those.



Do you have the link to that video I cant seem to find it.


----------



## matt21484

Here is the screen in the day and a few freeze frames from tonight. Silver ticket 106" grey screen from a Epson 2030


----------



## Cyborg_Optoma

matt21484 said:


> Here is the screen in the day and a few freeze frames from tonight. Silver ticket 106" grey screen from a Epson 2030


wow nice pictures and nice looking..

few questions

does this screen has any spakles ?
did it reduce the brightness or contrast from your picture projection
how good are blacks and other colors ?

TIA


----------



## docwhorocks

lemonslush said:


> Do you have the link to that video I cant seem to find it.


Here's the link for the projector mount: 




There are 11 videos total. There are good chunks of each video you can skip. For example the first vid is mostly unboxing, and going through the part list.


----------



## lemonslush

*OH dont buy this.*



docwhorocks said:


> Here's the link for the projector mount: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e6YdzHVnaxE&list=PLbic0zGsQtWeYQcSYTcZPB9ExpnY6IVYx
> 
> There are 11 videos total. There are good chunks of each video you can skip. For example the first vid is mostly unboxing, and going through the part list.


Thanks but I was looking for the screen mount. I built the screen last night, its a total POS. They give you no instructions and the ones online are no better. No specifics as to what screws go in which holes. They didnt drill out one of the holes where the frame joins together and the bolt snapped clean off inside the hold. I basically guessed on how to assemble the rest. Not rocket science but It would have been nice to insure I was building it correctly.

They sent me this mount that came with it which was junk. YOu needed to go behind the screen to tighten it down. I contacted support and they sent me the "new version" of the much which appears much better. We will see tonight. 

My first impressions of this thing are is stay away. My elite screen around the same price was a much easier screen to build. 

The actual screen materiel seems to be pretty flat. I tightened it like I would a drum so it was pretty even throughout. If your not a drummer this may not be as intuitive. 

I am just outside of my amazon return window which really stinks. I had to build the room first before I could hang the screen and I only ordered the screen so early because the size I wanted is always out of stock. 

If I was to do it again, I would have gone with a seymor, its easily double the price but my sanity is worth $600 bucks.


----------



## docwhorocks

lemonslush said:


> Thanks but I was looking for the screen mount.


Sorry - don't know if there is a video for the screen assembly.


----------



## matt21484

Cyborg_Optoma said:


> wow nice pictures and nice looking..
> 
> few questions
> 
> does this screen has any spakles ?
> did it reduce the brightness or contrast from your picture projection
> how good are blacks and other colors ?
> 
> TIA


Did you mean sparkles, either way, I haven't noticed them. I'll have to try to find a scene with a mostly white background as I think I saw some color banding issues, but overall am very happy. 
I used the Disney blu-ray calibration disk included with The Incredibles and have noticed an improvement in black levels & contrast. However, they are probably back to average now, whereas out of the box, they were below average IMO. I don't have a white screen to compare anything to so I can't say if it's the screen or PJ. Other colors seem punchy and accurate, it's just the red tint skin tones exhibit. I thin it's partially due to the film recording style though. I did notice it again in the Netflix Daredevil series, Kingpin's head was an odd yellowish orange. That show should be used to reference any PJ, the whole show seemed like it was shot at night. Shadow detail was very hard to pick up.

EDIT: added pictures of same scenes during daylight hours (11:30 am Mountain time) with blinds closed. Windows are north facing.


----------



## RhinoBW

Question ... How are you guys hanging these screens on your walls?? The way that the drywall was installed, in my basement, was over thick foam board that rests on the concrete wall ... no stud work. I am concerned on safely hanging the screen as I am not sure about the weight. I will receive my screen tomorrow, I bought the 120" 16:9.


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## bouf0010

RhinoBW said:


> Question ... How are you guys hanging these screens on your walls?? The way that the drywall was installed, in my basement, was over thick foam board that rests on the concrete wall ... no stud work. I am concerned on safely hanging the screen as I am not sure about the weight. I will receive my screen tomorrow, I bought the 120" 16:9.


There is 4 mounting points on the screen - if you get yourself some good drywall anchors you'll be alright 

Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk


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## RhinoBW

bouf0010 said:


> There is 4 mounting points on the screen - if you get yourself some good drywall anchors you'll be alright
> 
> Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk


Thanks much. I had some quality 50lb anchors that I had used. With the help of my girl, we pieced it together last night and mounted it; we love it.


----------



## bouf0010

RhinoBW said:


> Thanks much. I had some quality 50lb anchors that I had used. With the help of my girl, we pieced it together last night and mounted it; we love it.


Awesome! I'm glad it all worked out 

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## curtishd

Can some one post a picture of the texture of the 1.1 gain screen (close up)? I am curious and considering the screen but want to see what the texture looks like since they don't send out samples.


----------



## Dominic Chan

curtishd said:


> Can some one post a picture of the texture of the 1.1 gain screen (close up)? I am curious and considering the screen but want to see what the texture looks like since they don't send out samples.


The texture is extremely fine and hard to see even close up; it's essentially a piece of smooth vinyl. 
See attached close-up photo which includes a USB connector (for size reference) against the screen and part of the black velvet frame. The lighting is from overhead incandescent coming at a steep angle thus exaggerating the pattern; with the projector light coming from the front, the texture is even less visible.


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## bouf0010

I got pretty tired of the occasional sparkles and terrible grainyness on the silver - i ordered a replacement grey screen (just the material). I was able to get it for about $60 shipped so I figured why not try it out. I'll do my best to post photos of various light conditions for both screens. 

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----------



## Swolephile

bouf0010 said:


> I got pretty tired of the occasional sparkles and terrible grainyness on the silver - i ordered a replacement grey screen (just the material). I was able to get it for about $60 shipped so I figured why not try it out. I'll do my best to post photos of various light conditions for both screens.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk


So do you prefer the image quality on the gray screen over what you saw on the silver alr screen? Also did the gray screen help fight any ambient light at all?


----------



## bouf0010

Swolephile said:


> So do you prefer the image quality on the gray screen over what you saw on the silver alr screen? Also did the gray screen help fight any ambient light at all?


It shipped today - I'll let you know hopefully by the weekend

Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk


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## Dominic Chan

bouf0010 said:


> It shipped today - I'll let you know hopefully by the weekend


Can you take some pictures before you disassemble the ALR screen? Some projected images with ambient light present, and then similar pictures with the Matte Grey screen

Thanks.


----------



## bouf0010

Dominic Chan said:


> Can you take some pictures before you disassemble the ALR screen? Some projected images with ambient light present, and then similar pictures with the Matte Grey screen
> 
> Thanks.


Ya I plan on taking pics of both in various lighting environment 

I'll see what I can do to get some side by sides too 

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## Syradil

Not impressed with the 92" gray screen I got last week. Projected whites are quite sparkly/shimmery, to the point of distraction. Colors and darker images look good.

It might just be that my Epson 3500 is too darn bright even in Eco mode.


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## bouf0010

Syradil said:


> Not impressed with the 92" gray screen I got last week. Projected whites are quite sparkly/shimmery, to the point of distraction. Colors and darker images look good.
> 
> It might just be that my Epson 3500 is too darn bright even in Eco mode.


100% sure it's the grey screen? Sounds like the ALR. Is there a black backing on the material?

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## Syradil

bouf0010 said:


> 100% sure it's the grey screen? Sounds like the ALR. Is there a black backing on the material?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk


Yes it has the black back material.


----------



## bouf0010

Syradil said:


> Yes it has the black back material.


Damn - hopefully I don't run into the same issue 

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## socal swagger

My st 150 in Matt white is excellent


----------



## Dominic Chan

Syradil said:


> Yes it has the black back material.


The ALR screen has black backing, I haven't tried the matte grey but it should not have the sparkles.
[EDIT: Please ignore; the above statement was mistaken]


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## bouf0010

Dominic Chan said:


> The ALR screen has black backing, I haven't tried the matte grey but it should not have the sparkles.


Not on the 2 that I have gotten... nor does it say it has it on their website. Maybe they used to??

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## Dominic Chan

bouf0010 said:


> Not on the 2 that I have gotten... nor does it say it has it on their website. Maybe they used to??


I was mistaken (going by memory when I posted it). It's the Matte White one that has the black backing.

In any case, the ALR screen has a much narrow viewing angle (40 instead of 80 degrees each side), so a simple test can confirm it:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-11.html#post35643914


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## bouf0010

Dominic Chan said:


> I was mistaken (going by memory when I posted it). It's the Matte White one that has the black backing.
> 
> In any case, the ALR screen has a much narrow viewing angle (40 instead of 80 degrees each side), so a simple test can confirm it:
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-11.html#post35643914


Ya the off angle isn't the greatest. I think the grey screen has the black backing too - I'll find out early next week when I get the material in. I really hope the grey does the trick cause I can't stop staring at the grainyness of the ALR.

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## Dominic Chan

bouf0010 said:


> Ya I plan on taking pics of both in various lighting environment
> I'll see what I can do to get some side by sides too


If you have a digital camera with manual exposure it would provide the best comparision. That's what I did when comparing the Matte White with the ALR:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-9.html#post35346042


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## bouf0010

Dominic Chan said:


> If you have a digital camera with manual exposure it would provide the best comparision. That's what I did when comparing the Matte White with the ALR:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-9.html#post35346042


I have a half decent dslr camera - any particular settings I should use?

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## Dominic Chan

bouf0010 said:


> I have a half decent dslr camera - any particular settings I should use?


The actual setting does not matter too much, as long as the exposure is manual and the same settings used for the A/B comparison. Manual white balance will make the comparison easier.


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## bouf0010

Dominic Chan said:


> The actual setting does not matter too much, as long as the exposure is manual and the same settings used for the A/B comparison. Manual white balance will make the comparison easier.


Easy enough - I'll try and have some pics up by the end of next week

Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk


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## therealdjnugz

I have the 100" 16x9 grey screen. It does have the black backing. I've also experienced sparkle in super bright white scenes with my old Epson 2030 and current Epson 5025, and mentioned it in this thread probably a few months back. I'm pretty much used to it at this point. It's the only screen I've owned, so I don't have much to compare it to, but overall I'm happy with it. I've had one other issue with the screen. The center support bar in the back was pushing on the screen, so i could see the outline of the bar. Again, I could only see it during bright white scenes. I don't see it anymore so I either just don't notice it, or it isn't pushing in on the screen anymore. Was thinking about trying a white screen. Didn't know you could just buy the material with Silver Ticket.


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## chopperjc

I have just recently bought a 1070 thanks to the cult following on the site. The second part of the equation I know basically nothing. The brand seems to have a lot of fans, and despite the tension bar frustrations of some, has very few haters. 

The set up is easy. I live in a one bedroom apartment. I am going to put it on the coffee table 20 inches off the floor. The throw will be 9'4". I will get a 106 inch 16x9 which my far wall can handle without any issues. 

I am on the second floor and there is a sun room attached where my home office is. There are 3 large windows and two small skylights. I have blinds but I am not going to black everything out. The skylight has a couple hours of direct but never on the screen. There will also be a couple of other TV's on during peak football. So yes I have some ambient light. 

Sports is my only real priority. Sure I'll watch some Netflix but I have owned Vizio's all my life (Costco) so know you know my video acumen. Since 4k is at least 2 years away from being affordable and needed I will use this as my big screen for a while. Plus I have always wanted one .

It seems like since I am spending a little on a projector (a bargain one for sure) I would like to get a decent second part. 


I have read the threads the last week and I realize how little I know. I would love some advice and help. 

Thanks


----------



## curtishd

Dominic Chan said:


> The texture is extremely fine and hard to see even close up; it's essentially a piece of smooth vinyl.
> See attached close-up photo which includes a USB connector (for size reference) against the screen and part of the black velvet frame. The lighting is from overhead incandescent coming at a steep angle thus exaggerating the pattern; with the projector light coming from the front, the texture is even less visible.


Thanks for the picture. Maybe it is the camera or my computer screen but it looks like it has a slight texture that if you were to run your finger nail across it you would feel it... am I right or is it just me computer or the picture?


----------



## Dominic Chan

curtishd said:


> Thanks for the picture. Maybe it is the camera or my computer screen but it looks like it has a slight texture that if you were to run your finger nail across it you would feel it... am I right or is it just me computer or the picture?


Yes, as I mentioned in the previous post, the Silver Ticket Matte White screen does have an extremely fine texture. Going by the close-up picture and using the USB connector (12mm wide) as reference, the "pitch" is about 1/6 mm, going at a 45 degree angle. By comparison, my 1080p projector on the same screen (115" 2.4 aspect ratio) has a pixel size of 1.4mm, 8.4 times "coarser". Even a 4K image will still be 4.2 times coarser.


----------



## bouf0010

Got the grey material in today. Doesnt appear very matte to me... still has some sheen to it. I put it up over the ALR and took a couple pics - not the best way to compare the two but its something until have the time to mount it and take proper comparison photos. So far im not very impressed but like I said, not the best way to compare.


----------



## Dominic Chan

bouf0010 said:


> Doesnt appear very matte to me... still has some sheen to it. I put it up over the ALR and took a couple pics


Looks _very_ dim. Compared with the 1.5 gain ALR, I don't think the gain can be 1.0.


----------



## bouf0010

Dominic Chan said:


> Looks very dim. Compared with the 1.5 gain ALR, I don't think the gain can be 1.0.


Ya i really dont think its a 1.0 gain screen... i dont even think im gonna bother going through the effort of mounting it tbo. Heres a few more pics with very little ambient light. It just looks like the contrast ratio is being crushed - the blacks on both screens look the same but the grey is definitely not as bright. I zoomed the video in some of pics so you can see a little bit of the image on the white wall too. Im no pro but i think im gonna stick with the ALR since the grey just seems to have negative effect.

All of a sudden the grainyness of the ALR doesnt seem to bother me in comparison to the poor (IMO) image of the grey screen.


----------



## Dominic Chan

bouf0010 said:


> It just looks like the contrast ratio is being crushed - the blacks on both screens look the same but the grey is definitely not as bright. I zoomed the video in some of pics so you can see a little bit of the image on the white wall too. Im no pro but i think im gonna stick with the ALR since the grey just seems to have negative effect.


In general, I do expect ALR screens to have higher contrast than matte white and matte grey screens. The disadvantage would be narrow viewing angle, and screen texture.

However, your ALR seems to be quite uniform from edge to edge, using the white wall as reference. Mine has a gain of 1.5 near the centre, dropping to 0.7 near the edges.

In any case, the grey screen is dimmer than the ALR even near the edges, and according to your previous post, has a texture? That doesn't sound good at all.


----------



## bouf0010

the grey screen has zero texture, its just not as matte as i thought it would be. the picture looks smoother on the grey which is what i expected but i dont like what it does to the whites

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## llkindt

maybe I missed it. What projector are you using and what mode.

Cheers


----------



## bouf0010

im gonna put up the grey screen, live with it for a day or 2 and then do a similar comparison

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## bouf0010

llkindt said:


> maybe I missed it. What projector are you using and what mode.
> 
> Cheers


benq hc1200 

normal with ambient light and eco with lights off

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## therealdjnugz

I honestly think whites look good on my grey screen. But again, I don't have anything to compare it to. I'm really debating going for some white screen material though.


----------



## Swolephile

bouf0010 said:


> benq hc1200
> 
> normal with ambient light and eco with lights off
> 
> Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk


Color looks bang on in those pics. And the brightness on the lighter screen looks great. Just what I expect from the Benq HC-1200.


----------



## Dominic Chan

therealdjnugz said:


> I honestly think whites look good on my grey screen. But again, I don't have anything to compare it to. I'm really debating going for some white screen material though.


If you have good light control, white screen is always preferred. Silver Ticket sells the screen material (without the frame) for a very reasonable price.


----------



## bouf0010

i got the grey screen up - it looks alright when its not being compared to anything. i do like the picture better at night vs the ALR. I tested it out again today but this time putting the silver up next to it and i decided to switch back but when i was taking it down i dropped the ALR material while half of it was still rolled up on the heavy tube behind my speakers.... Go through the effort of remounting the ALR only to see that its scratched and marked all over, completely ruined  $155 shipped to get a new one so im going to live with the grey for a while before i decide what to do.

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----------



## Dominic Chan

bouf0010 said:


> i got the grey screen up - it looks alright when its not being compared to anything. i do like the picture better at night vs the ALR. I tested it out again today but this time putting the silver up next to it.


Sorry to hear about the mishap. Are the comparison results the same with the grey mounted, and the silver hung over it?


----------



## curtishd

bouf0010 said:


> Ya i really dont think its a 1.0 gain screen... i dont even think im gonna bother going through the effort of mounting it tbo. Heres a few more pics with very little ambient light. It just looks like the contrast ratio is being crushed - the blacks on both screens look the same but the grey is definitely not as bright. I zoomed the video in some of pics so you can see a little bit of the image on the white wall too. Im no pro but i think im gonna stick with the ALR since the grey just seems to have negative effect.
> 
> All of a sudden the grainyness of the ALR doesnt seem to bother me in comparison to the poor (IMO) image of the grey screen.


Any chance you might Call silver ticket and see what the cost of the matte white screen and compare all three? From what people are saying here it sounds like the matte white is really affordable.


----------



## bouf0010

Dominic Chan said:


> Sorry to hear about the mishap. Are the comparison results the same with the grey mounted, and the silver hung over it?


ya, looked exactly the same as the previous pics just reversed. I plan on ordering new ALR
material so ill try and get some pics when it comes in.






curtishd said:


> Any chance you might Call silver ticket and see what the cost of the matte white screen and compare all three? From what people are saying here it sounds like the matte white is really affordable.


I assume its around the same cost as the grey - $40 ish plus shipping. Unfortunately i dont have any use for the white material since it will be a long time before i have a dedicated room to utilize it and by then ill be going with a larger screen. 

My personal opinion is to go white with light controlled and silver with ambient - forget about the grey, it doesnt seem to have any benefits.

EDIT*** I placed an order for a replacement ALR - the grey just isnt cutting it for me in the viewing environment that I mostly watch in. To my tastes i have to keep the projector on normal even with the lights dimmed or off where as before i had to turn it down to eco.


----------



## Dominic Chan

bouf0010 said:


> i got the grey screen up - it looks alright when its not being compared to anything. i do like the picture better at night vs the ALR.


From the pictures you posted earlier, the grey screen has a bluish tint (visually and confirmed with Photoshop), similar to their matte white screen. Unexpectedly (to me), the ALR screen is actually very neutral. The white wall behind the screen is also very neutral, compared with the typical off-white.

How's the contrast of the grey screen compared with the white wall? People often claim that grey screens have a deeper black, but it doesn't seem to be the case based on the pictures.


----------



## bouf0010

Dominic Chan said:


> From the pictures you posted earlier, the grey screen has a bluish tint (visually and confirmed with Photoshop), similar to their matte white screen. Unexpectedly (to me), the ALR screen is actually very neutral. The white wall behind the screen is also very neutral, compared with the typical off-white.
> 
> How's the contrast of the grey screen compared with the white wall? People often claim that grey screens have a deeper black, but it doesn't seem to be the case based on the pictures.


The wall behind is an eggshell with the whitest white you can buy (not sure if that changes anything) 

In a room with a little bit of ambient light the grey screen does have deeper blacks but the greys and shadows kinda disappear and the whites look dirty. In a dark room i didnt see much of a difference between the wall and the screen other than the wall being brighter and clearer.

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## Dominic Chan

bouf0010 said:


> In a room with a little bit of ambient light the grey screen does have deeper blacks but the greys and shadows kinda disappear and the whites look dirty.


With a grey screen you need to increase the projector output to compensate for the lower gain.


----------



## bouf0010

Dominic Chan said:


> With a grey screen you need to increase the projector output to compensate for the lower gain.


ya i had the hc-1200 running full tilt and its still not as nice as the ALR running eco mode

i just wish they wouldnt have advertised it as 1.0 gain when its clearly not.


----------



## biliam1982

Does anyone know, can you just call up Silver Ticket and order the fabric? Or do you have to be an owner of one of their screens to get "replacement" materials?

I was thinking about ordering some for an experiment I want to do, but idk if I want to buy a new whole screen. If I could get just the fabric that would be great.


----------



## bouf0010

biliam1982 said:


> Does anyone know, can you just call up Silver Ticket and order the fabric? Or do you have to be an owner of one of their screens to get "replacement" materials?
> 
> I was thinking about ordering some for an experiment I want to do, but idk if I want to buy a new whole screen. If I could get just the fabric that would be great.


send Steven an email, he might be able to help you out.

steven @ silverticketproducts .com

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## biliam1982

bouf0010 said:


> send Steven an email, he might be able to help you out.
> 
> steven @ silverticketproducts .com
> 
> Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk


Ok, thx! 

I'm wanting to do a little experiment. I just got a JVC 6710 in this week and I have a Sharp VX-Z30000. They'll be on an audio tower behind my couch in the living room. The screen I'm really wanting, the Microlite F3, won't be available for another month or two. So, in the mean time...

Right now I already have a Dalite High Contrast High Power in 116" wide 2.35:1. So it would be about 100" in 16:9. I would mask the sides.

Looking into getting a bunch of different screen materials, probably for 100" 16:9 to match the Dalite, and play around to see how they look in different lighting conditions on different projectors. Maybe do a shoot-out.

I'm wanting to get the 1.5 gain silver ALR material. Also, a white, neutral 1.0 gain material. I'm seeing in this thread that it's pretty well liked. Or, I would go with something like Carl's blackout cloth. Carl's also has a 2.0 gain silver material, though it's not meant for ALR duties.

Thinking about building a stand with wood and parts from Home Depot. I wouldn't be pretty, but it would be functional. I could mount my Dalite on there and hang the other materials over/behind it.

Should probably start a thread for this in the DIY forum.


----------



## bouf0010

biliam1982 said:


> Ok, thx!
> 
> I'm wanting to do a little experiment. I just got a JVC 6710 in this week and I have a Sharp VX-Z30000. They'll be on an audio tower behind my couch in the living room. The screen I'm really wanting, the Microlite F3, won't be available for another month or two. So, in the mean time...
> 
> Right now I already have a Dalite High Contrast High Power in 116" wide 2.35:1. So it would be about 100" in 16:9. I would mask the sides.
> 
> Looking into getting a bunch of different screen materials, probably for 100" 16:9 to match the Dalite, and play around to see how they look in different lighting conditions on different projectors. Maybe do a shoot-out.
> 
> I'm wanting to get the 1.5 gain silver ALR material. Also, a white, neutral 1.0 gain material. I'm seeing in this thread that it's pretty well liked. Or, I would go with something like Carl's blackout cloth. Carl's also has a 2.0 gain silver material, though it's not meant for ALR duties.
> 
> Thinking about building a stand with wood and parts from Home Depot. I wouldn't be pretty, but it would be functional. I could mount my Dalite on there and hang the other materials over/behind it.
> 
> Should probably start a thread for this in the DIY forum.


that sounds like it will be a nice wide range of comparisons - looking forward to seeing that thread pop up! 

Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk


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## biliam1982

bouf0010 said:


> that sounds like it will be a nice wide range of comparisons - looking forward to seeing that thread pop up!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk


As you wish! 

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-d...-inputs-conducting-mini-screen-shoot-out.html


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## gridpool

I have the SilverTicket 150" 16:9 matte white up now. It replaced a diy Carl's Place flexi-white ~140" screen. The ST screen is great. Great picture and no noticeable sparkles or I can see yet. The flexi-white had them. I've got a w1070 and a light controlled room. I can officially recommend the SilverTicket.


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## Dominic Chan

biliam1982 said:


> Does anyone know, can you just call up Silver Ticket and order the fabric? Or do you have to be an owner of one of their screens to get "replacement" materials?


The "raw" material is listed on their web store:
http://silver-ticket-products.myshopify.com/collections/all/category_raw-screen-material

The cost is $39.98 for 62"x111".

However, the description says the gain is 1.3, which is different from their matte white (1.1 gain).


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## biliam1982

Dominic Chan said:


> The "raw" material is listed on their web store:
> http://silver-ticket-products.myshopify.com/collections/all/category_raw-screen-material
> 
> The cost is $39.98 for 62"x111".
> 
> However, the description says the gain is 1.3, which is different from their matte white (1.1 gain).


Steven got back to me and is checking with the factory to see if they have it in stock. Idk if they normally list it on their site but that may be the reason it's not showing up.


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## Dominic Chan

biliam1982 said:


> Steven got back to me and is checking with the factory to see if they have it in stock. Idk if they normally list it on their site but that may be the reason it's not showing up.


According to Steven, the 1.3 material has even less texture than the 1.1 screen (which is already very smooth). Unfortunately it's only available raw for DIYs and not available with pockets for their frames.


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## Balinus

I was considering the greay matte screen, until bouf0010 posted some pics. Is the grey matte screen that bad? I have ambient light (white walls and ceiling, lighting is controlled though). What are the alternatives? Without spending more than 350-400$ I mean... 

Is the ALR screen from Silver Ticket a good candidate? I have an Epson 5030UB and I need to watch late afternoon movies without blinds on the windows.

Any help will be appreciated! I was that close to pull the trigger on the gray matte screen. Any other opinion on it? reviews from amazon seems good though.


----------



## bouf0010

Balinus said:


> I was considering the greay matte screen, until bouf0010 posted some pics. Is the grey matte screen that bad? I have ambient light (white walls and ceiling, lighting is controlled though). What are the alternatives? Without spending more than 350-400$ I mean...
> 
> Is the ALR screen from Silver Ticket a good candidate? I have an Epson 5030UB and I need to watch late afternoon movies without blinds on the windows.
> 
> Any help will be appreciated! I was that close to pull the trigger on the gray matte screen. Any other opinion on it? reviews from amazon seems good though.


I think you would enjoy the ALR in this case. It keeps the brightness of a white screen while making the blacks the same as a grey screen. There is a little bit of visible texture with bright scenes but having tried both materials id pick the ALR over the washed out image of the grey with daylight. 

Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk


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## Dominic Chan

bouf0010 said:


> I think you would enjoy the ALR in this case. It keeps the brightness of a white screen while making the blacks the same as a grey screen. There is a little bit of visible texture with bright scenes but having tried both materials id pick the ALR over the washed out image of the grey with daylight.


The Silver Ticket ALR is about "50% brighter" than the matte white screen, at least in the centre. See the comparison pictures in this post:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-9.html#post35346042

Personally, I find the texture unacceptable and switched back to the matte white.
[EDIT: Please note I'm using the screen in a totally light controlled room].


----------



## bouf0010

Dominic Chan said:


> The Silver Ticket ALR is about "50% brighter" than the matte white screen. See the comparison pictures in this post:
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-9.html#post35346042
> 
> Personally, I find the texture unacceptable and switched back to the matte white.


Yes sorry, the ALR is brighter than the white and much brighter than the grey.

If your watching movies mid day with no blinds though id rather deal with the texture than not being able to see whats happening during darker scenes. Zero doubt in my mind id go with a white screen if ambient light wasnt a concern.

Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk


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## JonnyVee

Balinus said:


> I was considering the greay matte screen, until bouf0010 posted some pics. Is the grey matte screen that bad? I have ambient light (white walls and ceiling, lighting is controlled though). What are the alternatives? Without spending more than 350-400$ I mean...
> 
> Is the ALR screen from Silver Ticket a good candidate? I have an Epson 5030UB and I need to watch late afternoon movies without blinds on the windows.
> 
> Any help will be appreciated! I was that close to pull the trigger on the gray matte screen. Any other opinion on it? reviews from amazon seems good though.


I have the grey and love the screen. Blacks are inky and colors bright. I am in a completely light controlled room though.

I have a w1070 that is projecting on a 120" screen and with a 10' throw.


----------



## Balinus

bouf0010 said:


> I think you would enjoy the ALR in this case. It keeps the brightness of a white screen while making the blacks the same as a grey screen. There is a little bit of visible texture with bright scenes but having tried both materials id pick the ALR over the washed out image of the grey with daylight.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk


But would it have lots of texture with a low lumen mode at night time? 

During the day, the texture is less apparent I guess?


----------



## Balinus

Dominic Chan said:


> The Silver Ticket ALR is about "50% brighter" than the matte white screen, at least in the centre. See the comparison pictures in this post:
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-9.html#post35346042
> 
> Personally, I find the texture unacceptable and switched back to the matte white.
> [EDIT: Please note I'm using the screen in a totally light controlled room].


I can't have a white screen though.. It's either the gray matte or the ALR screen in my opinion. If I understand correctly!


----------



## Balinus

JonnyVee said:


> I have the grey and love the screen. Blacks are inky and colors bright. I am in a completely light controlled room though.
> 
> I have a w1070 that is projecting on a 120" screen and with a 10' throw.


Thanks! I have control over the lights, but not the white walls and ceiling.


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## JonnyVee

Balinus said:


> Thanks! I have control over the lights, but not the white walls and ceiling.


How big of a screen are you looking at and how long of a throw? When considering the ALR, i was told i would get hotspotting with my short 10' throw. 

I also have gradually increased my screen from 96" to 110" and now finally 120". When 96" the light walls and light ceiling (only 7' high) were not an issue. However, as the screen got bigger and closer to the ceiling and adjacent walls, the light reflecting back on the screen became very noticeable. I have since painted my walls and ceiling dark colors. 

Since you want to watch in the afternoon with no blinds on the windows i would suggest the ALR. The grey can still get pretty washed out with light. However, it does perform much better with light than my painted DIY Sherwin Williams grey screen.


----------



## Balinus

JonnyVee said:


> How big of a screen are you looking at and how long of a throw? When considering the ALR, i was told i would get hotspotting with my short 10' throw.
> 
> I also have gradually increased my screen from 96" to 110" and now finally 120". When 96" the light walls and light ceiling (only 7' high) were not an issue. However, as the screen got bigger and closer to the ceiling and adjacent walls, the light reflecting back on the screen became very noticeable. I have since painted my walls and ceiling dark colors.
> 
> Since you want to watch in the afternoon with no blinds on the windows i would suggest the ALR. The grey can still get pretty washed out with light. However, it does perform much better with light than my painted DIY Sherwin Williams grey screen.


I'm looking at a 100" inch screen with a 11' feet throw. The ceiling is 7' high. It's a basement, the glass door is facing east. So no direct sunlight. I can partially block this glass door with a blind though (I'd prefer not though). It's on the right hand side of the screen at about 4 or 5' feet from the screen.

Edit - here's the maximum ambient light I'll have. That's from the 1st floor. Hence, the light should be slightly less in the basement. The painting is the position of the screen in the basement.


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## therealdjnugz

Balinus said:


> I was considering the greay matte screen, until bouf0010 posted some pics. Is the grey matte screen that bad? I have ambient light (white walls and ceiling, lighting is controlled though). What are the alternatives? Without spending more than 350-400$ I mean...
> 
> Is the ALR screen from Silver Ticket a good candidate? I have an Epson 5030UB and I need to watch late afternoon movies without blinds on the windows.
> 
> Any help will be appreciated! I was that close to pull the trigger on the gray matte screen. Any other opinion on it? reviews from amazon seems good though.


Yea, but you have to remember his projector probably wasn't calibrated for a grey screen. I have the grey screen and I think my picture is great. However, I am interested in trying a white screen. Can anyone tell me how I'd go about buying just the screen material from Silver Ticket?


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## rimmi2002

Hi after going through this thread I ordered a silver Ticket white 150" Diagnol fixed frame screen. After putting it together and putting the screen upright, I saw that the whole screen material is covered in ripple like wrinkles. I took some pictures (posted a close up and a distance one). Is this normal or is this screen defective. I had a heard of screen having a ripple or two but my whole screen is filled with ripples. Any advice would be great. Thanks.


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## therealdjnugz

rimmi2002 said:


> Hi after going through this thread I ordered a silver Ticket white 150" Diagnol fixed frame screen. After putting it together and putting the screen upright, I saw that the whole screen material is covered in ripple like wrinkles. I took some pictures (posted a close up and a distance one). Is this normal or is this screen defective. I had a heard of screen having a ripple or two but my whole screen is filled with ripples. Any advice would be great. Thanks.


Mine never looked like that. It was smoothe out of the box. Make sure the tension is nice and tight. I'd give it a few days. If the ripples don't smoothe out within a few days get a replacement. I've seen other memebers with the same problem. I'm almost positive their screens eventually flattened out.


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## rimmi2002

therealdjnugz said:


> Mine never looked like that. It was smoothe out of the box. Make sure the tension is nice and tight. I'd give it a few days. If the ripples don't smoothe out within a few days get a replacement. I've seen other memebers with the same problem. I'm almost positive their screens eventually flattened out.


 Thanks for the feedback. The screen is fully tensionsed. In fact I wanted to ask how hard is the tensioning part of the install. On my install, in the vertical direction, the holes were close to matching up, but in the horizontal direction it took a lot of force by two people just to get the first two holes matched up on each oppossing horizontal side (or on the vertical bars). In fact, when I tried to push in two tacks on one hortizontal side and then pulled with all my might to do the same on the other side, they screen kept popping out of the holes when I let go because the tension was so high.

So I had to place all 6 holes in tacks on one side and then keep it physically tensioned the whole time while I placed the other 6 six tacks on the vertical bar to stretch the screen horizontally. Even now some of the tacks on the vertical bars are bowing centrally, I get the feeling they can pop any second. 

I contact ST yesterday. No response yet. I think I am going to ask for replacement and probably ask to pay the difference to get the gray screen. I did a trial projection on my matte white screen yesterday. The blacks are much better on my wall then they are on the screen. My screen is not mounted so I had an area where half the black test pattern was on the wall and the other half was on the screen, the difference was very clearly visible. 

Overall kinda disappointmented...screen is projecting worse than my wall. I hope the gray screen helps somewhat in that.


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## Dominic Chan

rimmi2002 said:


> Thanks for the feedback. The screen is fully tensionsed. In fact I wanted to ask how hard is the tensioning part of the install. On my install, in the vertical direction, the holes were close to matching up, but in the horizontal direction it took a lot of force by two people just to get the first two holes matched up on each oppossing horizontal side (or on the vertical bars). In fact, when I tried to push in two tacks on one hortizontal side and then pulled with all my might to do the same on the other side, they screen kept popping out of the holes when I let go because the tension was so high.


You should line up the tacks in the frame with the holes in the screen, not with the stickers on the frames. (This is mentioned in the instructions, but probably not very clearly). The uneven and excessive horizontal tension could be the cause of the ripples. If I were you, I would remove the screen and redo it with the tacks properly positioned.
Also watch video for some additional hints:
http://faq.silverticketproducts.com...-material-on-a-silver-ticket-fixed-frame.html


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## Dominic Chan

therealdjnugz said:


> Yea, but you have to remember his projector probably wasn't calibrated for a grey screen. I have the grey screen and I think my picture is great. However, I am interested in trying a white screen. Can anyone tell me how I'd go about buying just the screen material from Silver Ticket?


You can email them at [email protected]


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## rimmi2002

Dominic Chan said:


> You should line up the tacks in the frame with the holes in the screen, not with the stickers on the frames. (This is mentioned in the instructions, but probably not very clearly). The uneven and excessive horizontal tension could be the cause of the ripples. If I were you, I would remove the screen and redo it with the tacks properly positioned.
> Also watch video for some additional hints:
> http://faq.silverticketproducts.com...-material-on-a-silver-ticket-fixed-frame.html


Thanks for the video link. I saw those videos and followed those directions on install. Screen was centered on placement. Issue was I got the middle pin in on one vertical bar with ease...to do the same on the other vertical bar required a lot of tension (it was about 5-6 inches short, I had pull very hard just to get the first pin in on the opposite side) . Each time I pulled it enough to do so and placed it in the center pin on the oppsite side it would just pop out because of the tenson. I tried putting in two central 2 pins on each side and same thing happened when I get go of the tension I was placing, the screen would pop out. 

Only way I could get it to hold was to place the 6 pin in on one side and place the other 6 pins on the opposite site. One person constantly held the screen under tension while the other aligned the pins with the holes and placed them in. 

Is the screen usally 5-6 inches short of the pins and require that much stretch to get it in? I measured the unrolled, flattened out, unstreched screen in the horizontal direction and it measures 127". The frame is 135 inches. The viewing area is 130.5 inches and then about ~0.75-1 inch of excess on each side to get it in the pins. 

Thanks for the prompt help here.


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## Balinus

With this kind of ambient light, would you go with an ALR or matte grey screen? The screen would begin where the brown plastic finishes.


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## Dominic Chan

rimmi2002 said:


> Only way I could get it to hold was to place the 6 pin in on one side and place the other 6 pins on the opposite site. One person constantly held the screen under tension while the other aligned the pins with the holes and placed them in.
> 
> Is the screen usally 5-6 inches short of the pins and require that much stretch to get it in?


I don't remember if I had to stretch this much. What about in the other direction, vertically? I'm surprised that stretching it vertically does not eliminate the ripples. Hopefully you'll hear back from them shortly (they don't seem to be open on Saturday and Sunday).


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## rimmi2002

Dominic Chan said:


> I don't remember if I had to stretch this much. What about in the other direction, vertically? I'm surprised that stretching it vertically does not eliminate the ripples. Hopefully you'll hear back from them shortly (they don't seem to be open on Saturday and Sunday).


Screen was only short in the horizontal direction. In the vertical direction the holes were not too far from the pin..a little bit of stretching did the job. 

Got a response from silver ticket. They said they have a had a small bad batch of 150" inch screens that were cut too short and they would replace mine. That is very nice of them. Its rare a company admits something went wrong. I like the honesty.


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## gridpool

rimmi2002 said:


> Thanks for the feedback. The screen is fully tensionsed. In fact I wanted to ask how hard is the tensioning part of the install. On my install, in the vertical direction, the holes were close to matching up, but in the horizontal direction it took a lot of force by two people just to get the first two holes matched up on each oppossing horizontal side (or on the vertical bars). In fact, when I tried to push in two tacks on one hortizontal side and then pulled with all my might to do the same on the other side, they screen kept popping out of the holes when I let go because the tension was so high.
> 
> So I had to place all 6 holes in tacks on one side and then keep it physically tensioned the whole time while I placed the other 6 six tacks on the vertical bar to stretch the screen horizontally. Even now some of the tacks on the vertical bars are bowing centrally, I get the feeling they can pop any second.
> 
> I contact ST yesterday. No response yet. I think I am going to ask for replacement and probably ask to pay the difference to get the gray screen. I did a trial projection on my matte white screen yesterday. The blacks are much better on my wall then they are on the screen. My screen is not mounted so I had an area where half the black test pattern was on the wall and the other half was on the screen, the difference was very clearly visible.
> 
> Overall kinda disappointmented...screen is projecting worse than my wall. I hope the gray screen helps somewhat in that.


You got a defective material. I had the same problem on my 150" order. The horizontal stretch shouldn't be as extreme and only should be 3 inches or so short of the frame. It shouldn't take 2 people pulling to get it to fit. I had the same problem. I sent pics and they followed up by sending a replacement material. Tell them you had the same problem. They should send a replacement. I asked for a replacement when the first tabs popped off; I knew it wasn't right. The ripples are from stretching the material too much: it simply wasn't the right size in the first place. Defective screen. They will replace it.


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## curtishd

Has anyone been able to compare screen materials with Carada?


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## Dominic Chan

rimmi2002 said:


> Got a response from silver ticket. They said they have a had a small bad batch of 150" inch screens that were cut too short and they would replace mine.


Just wondering if you have received the replacement screen material, and whether that solved the problem.


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## rtart

I haven't seen much feedback from ST owners of acoustically transparent screens here, so I thought I would share my experience.

I ordered my 120" AT screen from Amazon on Sept 24th and received it, and installed it, on September 30th. Except for some stubborn minor puckering of the seam on the bottom of the screen, no problems. It's been about 10 days with no change in the puckering, even after the hair dryer fix the website recommends. (The hair dryer worked on the other wrinkles, though.) Looks like the heat-sealed seam just had the pucker in it when it was sealed together. Just in two places on one edge (the bottom), but nowhere else. I'll give it another week and reach out to ST if it doesn't go away. 

I replaced a Draper (now Accuscreens) 106" AT screen with the ST 120", (the old screen, the Draper/Accuscreens one, is for sale in the Classifieds section, BTW) and the PQ seems to be basically the same. The 'old' screen had basically no texture and comparable gain, and to my eyes the ST screen looks the same, only bigger.

For those interested, the gain of the ST screen seems visibly to be the same as a sample of Seymour's XD fabric. (I compared the sample to the ST screen on a white section while the PJ was on. Neither fabric was brighter than the other. The ST screen has less texture/pattern to it, though. Seymour's UD fabric had visibly less gain when tested the same way. Much less texture in the UD than either the ST screen or XD fabric. 

A couple days after I installed the ST screen I wrote a review on Amazon. Here it is, for those interested. 

_This is my third acoustically transparent screen...the last was a Draper AT1200 106" screen. I wanted to go bigger because my new JVC RS46u can throw a bright enough picture in 3D to make this possible. I've been a home theater fan for many years, and have owned a dedicated theater for well over a decade. Since the days of Laserdiscs, CRT projectors, and Dolby Surround. (You might find me on AVSForum, Emotiva Lounge, or the Polk Audio Forum as "rtart.")

As part of my constant upgrade path, I did a lot of reading online before pulling the trigger on the ST screen reviewed here so had no surprises about the assembly instructions (or lack thereof). Watching the YouTube video makes it all clear, and a little mechanical inclination makes it fairly easy to put together and mount. The biggest issue with screens is their shipping size and cost...a ten foot long box is going to cost to ship. ST makes this screen frame in sections, so the longer (top and bottom) frame sections have to be connected somehow. ST manages this issue well, with a very sturdy connector between the two sections. The frame side sections are one piece, so no middle connection is necessary. Corners go together with reinforcing brackets and screws, and are very sturdy. After joining the top and bottom halves, put the corner brackets on the top and bottom first, then connect the frame sides.

I recommend adding the hanging brackets at this point, and figure out how you are going to mount the screen to the wall. Trust me, it's easier to do if you can reach through before the fabric is installed. Once you mount the wall bracket halves onto the wall, its time to install the fabric. Pull down the frame and lay it "ugly" side up.

Roll out the fabric and thread in the rods in the pockets. The shorter ones go on the top and bottom and meet in the middle. Start in with every third spring to get started, then fill in the ones that are missing. (The diagram does help a little here....the springs should clip down over the rods, and then the other end into the channel on the frame)

Fabric is pulled snugly by the springs, but inserting the middle supports (there are 2 here) was easy. I installed the hanging brackets onto the frame first, and set one end against the bracket while "encouraging" the other end to the other bracket with a mallet. If you orient them correctly (see the diagram) they will go in pretty easily...but you WILL need a mallet to get it done. Don't be shy, but you might want to wrap the mallet in a clean cloth to protect the screen surface.

A few small wrinkles in the screen, but I expect them to come out in a day or two. If this is an issue, I will revisit this review.

Fabric appears to indeed be 1.1 gain, as compared to my other screens and a couple of samples from other manufacturers. Acoustic performance also appears to be as good as past screens I have owned. The weave of the fabric is invisible from my viewing distance, which is around 11 feet.

All things considered, this is a substantial screen that appears to have cost a LOT more than I paid. I would recommend it to anyone considering it. Took me about an hour, by myself, from opening the box to watching a movie._


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## phntm

I recently got a 158" 2.35:1 grey screen from Silver Ticket. Steven at ST has been helpful and responsive so far. I've gone through multiple replacements with them due to incorrect material and most recently uniformity issues with the grey material. I have 2 screens here that when you look at the screen from an angle you see parts that have a sheen and parts that have almost no sheen. It's almost like vertical bars across the entire screen. This causes brighter vertical areas to show on very bright scenes in movies. The latest screen they sent isn't as bad, but it's still an issue. Has anyone else seen this issue with their grey material at all?


----------



## Dominic Chan

phntm said:


> Has anyone else seen this issue with their grey material at all?


I have not seen this with the matte white screen.
BTW, you picture was taken at a _very _steep angle. Are the stripes visible from typical viewing angles (less than 45 degrees)?


----------



## bouf0010

phntm said:


> I recently got a 158" 2.35:1 grey screen from Silver Ticket. Steven at ST has been helpful and responsive so far. I've gone through multiple replacements with them due to incorrect material and most recently uniformity issues with the grey material. I have 2 screens here that when you look at the screen from an angle you see parts that have a sheen and parts that have almost no sheen. It's almost like vertical bars across the entire screen. This causes brighter vertical areas to show on very bright scenes in movies. The latest screen they sent isn't as bad, but it's still an issue. Has anyone else seen this issue with their grey material at all?


ive had that issue with the ALR material twice now, i have a replacement on the way. Im pretty sure it happens cause the screen is rolled up onto itself and the constant change in temperature when shipping makes it stick together. If they rolled it up with tissue paper or something like it i bet their issues would disappear

Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk


----------



## phntm

Dominic Chan said:


> I have not seen this with the matte white screen.
> BTW, you picture was taken at a _very _steep angle. Are the stripes visible from typical viewing angles (less than 45 degrees)?


Yes it's also visible from other angles as well as when a very bright or white image is projected onto it.



bouf0010 said:


> ive had that issue with the ALR material twice now, i have a replacement on the way. Im pretty sure it happens cause the screen is rolled up onto itself and the constant change in temperature when shipping makes it stick together. If they rolled it up with tissue paper or something like it i bet their issues would disappear


That does seem like a probable cause. Or they are just rolling it up too soon, like it needs to dry/cure an extra day(s) or something.


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## dabsabre

anyone with the AT screen having any suggestions on how to attach the black backing material? I believe they suggested just masking tape but that doesn't seem like it would hold up long term. I was thinking on sinking some small disc magnets in my wood frame and then create some pockets in the material and drop magnets in those to attach.

any other thoughts/solutions?


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## therealdjnugz

phntm said:


> I recently got a 158" 2.35:1 grey screen from Silver Ticket. Steven at ST has been helpful and responsive so far. I've gone through multiple replacements with them due to incorrect material and most recently uniformity issues with the grey material. I have 2 screens here that when you look at the screen from an angle you see parts that have a sheen and parts that have almost no sheen. It's almost like vertical bars across the entire screen. This causes brighter vertical areas to show on very bright scenes in movies. The latest screen they sent isn't as bad, but it's still an issue. Has anyone else seen this issue with their grey material at all?


Yes! I have that problem as well. Never noticed it without an image being projected though. And even then, only on super bright scenes. I couldn't figure out what it was until now!


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## rtart

*ST 120 AT Update*

An update to the post below concerning an issue with wrinkles/puckers in a seam on my AT screen. 

After a couple weeks, the puckered seam was still there, in spite of efforts to stretch or 'blow-dry' them out, etc. so I reached out to ST via the Amazon messaging system. I received a reply in less than an hour and was shipped a replacement fabric in a day or so. They also included some 'shorter' springs to add more tension, but they were not needed. The new fabric went in and no puckers, wrinkles or other issues. Looks great, and an example of how customer service ought to be. 



rtart said:


> I haven't seen much feedback from ST owners of acoustically transparent screens here, so I thought I would share my experience.
> 
> I ordered my 120" AT screen from Amazon on Sept 24th and received it, and installed it, on September 30th. Except for some stubborn minor puckering of the seam on the bottom of the screen, no problems. It's been about 10 days with no change in the puckering, even after the hair dryer fix the website recommends. (The hair dryer worked on the other wrinkles, though.) Looks like the heat-sealed seam just had the pucker in it when it was sealed together. Just in two places on one edge (the bottom), but nowhere else. I'll give it another week and reach out to ST if it doesn't go away.
> 
> I replaced a Draper (now Accuscreens) 106" AT screen with the ST 120", (the old screen, the Draper/Accuscreens one, is for sale in the Classifieds section, BTW) and the PQ seems to be basically the same. The 'old' screen had basically no texture and comparable gain, and to my eyes the ST screen looks the same, only bigger.
> 
> For those interested, the gain of the ST screen seems visibly to be the same as a sample of Seymour's XD fabric. (I compared the sample to the ST screen on a white section while the PJ was on. Neither fabric was brighter than the other. The ST screen has less texture/pattern to it, though. Seymour's UD fabric had visibly less gain when tested the same way. Much less texture in the UD than either the ST screen or XD fabric.
> 
> A couple days after I installed the ST screen I wrote a review on Amazon. Here it is, for those interested.
> 
> _This is my third acoustically transparent screen...the last was a Draper AT1200 106" screen. I wanted to go bigger because my new JVC RS46u can throw a bright enough picture in 3D to make this possible. I've been a home theater fan for many years, and have owned a dedicated theater for well over a decade. Since the days of Laserdiscs, CRT projectors, and Dolby Surround. (You might find me on AVSForum, Emotiva Lounge, or the Polk Audio Forum as "rtart.")
> 
> As part of my constant upgrade path, I did a lot of reading online before pulling the trigger on the ST screen reviewed here so had no surprises about the assembly instructions (or lack thereof). Watching the YouTube video makes it all clear, and a little mechanical inclination makes it fairly easy to put together and mount. The biggest issue with screens is their shipping size and cost...a ten foot long box is going to cost to ship. ST makes this screen frame in sections, so the longer (top and bottom) frame sections have to be connected somehow. ST manages this issue well, with a very sturdy connector between the two sections. The frame side sections are one piece, so no middle connection is necessary. Corners go together with reinforcing brackets and screws, and are very sturdy. After joining the top and bottom halves, put the corner brackets on the top and bottom first, then connect the frame sides.
> 
> I recommend adding the hanging brackets at this point, and figure out how you are going to mount the screen to the wall. Trust me, it's easier to do if you can reach through before the fabric is installed. Once you mount the wall bracket halves onto the wall, its time to install the fabric. Pull down the frame and lay it "ugly" side up.
> 
> Roll out the fabric and thread in the rods in the pockets. The shorter ones go on the top and bottom and meet in the middle. Start in with every third spring to get started, then fill in the ones that are missing. (The diagram does help a little here....the springs should clip down over the rods, and then the other end into the channel on the frame)
> 
> Fabric is pulled snugly by the springs, but inserting the middle supports (there are 2 here) was easy. I installed the hanging brackets onto the frame first, and set one end against the bracket while "encouraging" the other end to the other bracket with a mallet. If you orient them correctly (see the diagram) they will go in pretty easily...but you WILL need a mallet to get it done. Don't be shy, but you might want to wrap the mallet in a clean cloth to protect the screen surface.
> 
> A few small wrinkles in the screen, but I expect them to come out in a day or two. If this is an issue, I will revisit this review.
> 
> Fabric appears to indeed be 1.1 gain, as compared to my other screens and a couple of samples from other manufacturers. Acoustic performance also appears to be as good as past screens I have owned. The weave of the fabric is invisible from my viewing distance, which is around 11 feet.
> 
> All things considered, this is a substantial screen that appears to have cost a LOT more than I paid. I would recommend it to anyone considering it. Took me about an hour, by myself, from opening the box to watching a movie._


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## Anjin

All you guys who ended up buying ST screen.. what were your other options that you considered seriously? I've heard much good things about ST, most importantly considering the price, that I'd like to get one, but they do not make one small enough for me.

I'm going to have 8' throw and 8' viewing distance using good old Sanyo PLV-Z3000, so I thought of buying ~80" 16:9 screen. Room, 9,5' x 9,5', has off-white walls and ceiling, and a black floor. Two huge windows with blinds and thick curtains made of stuff that won't let light in. Some will spill from the corners, but I'll have to live with that. Matte grey 1.0 would be my choice, but please point me into right direction if something else would work better.

Any help / suggestions will be appreciated!


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## biliam1982

Anjin said:


> All you guys who ended up buying ST screen.. what were your other options that you considered seriously? I've heard much good things about ST, most importantly considering the price, that I'd like to get one, but they do not make one small enough for me.
> 
> I'm going to have 8' throw and 8' viewing distance using good old Sanyo PLV-Z3000, so I thought of buying ~80" 16:9 screen. Room, 9,5' x 9,5', has off-white walls and ceiling, and a black floor. Two huge windows with blinds and thick curtains made of stuff that won't let light in. Some will spill from the corners, but I'll have to live with that. Matte grey 1.0 would be my choice, but please point me into right direction if something else would work better.
> 
> Any help / suggestions will be appreciated!


If you can't change your/afford new gear to a short throw projector (the BenQ or LG LED comes to mind), you may want to try building one yourself. And it would probably be a lot cheaper too.

@ an 8' throw, you're maxed out at 80" in 16:9.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Sanyo-PLV-Z3000-projection-calculator-pro.htm

There's plenty of places (including ST) that sells just the screen materials/fabric.


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## Anjin

Thank you for the advice!

Yeah, I'm thinking 77", if I'm buying a screen, just to be sure my Sanyo can fill it. In that case I think I'll go for Grandview, since they are quite affordable here (around 400 here in Scandinavia, and bear in mind, this is an _expensive_ country).

And yes, I have thought of DIY screen. Problem is that I have my hands full with kids, and new one coming up in few days, so along with money I'm short oftime too, but.. Maybe I'll see if I can come up with some quickish DIY solution.

The room I originally thought of equipping with ST screen is 9,5 x9,5ft. It has white ceiling and white walls. Black floor and black furniture. Side wall has massive windows equipped with blinds and thick curtains that won't let light in (well some from the edges, but I'll have to live with that). What would be your choice of gain / colour for the fabric, if I can aquire some from ST?





biliam1982 said:


> If you can't change your/afford new gear to a short throw projector (the BenQ or LG LED comes to mind), you may want to try building one yourself. And it would probably be a lot cheaper too.
> 
> @ an 8' throw, you're maxed out at 80" in 16:9.
> 
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/Sanyo-PLV-Z3000-projection-calculator-pro.htm
> 
> There's plenty of places (including ST) that sells just the screen materials/fabric.


----------



## biliam1982

Anjin said:


> Thank you for the advice!
> 
> Yeah, I'm thinking 77", if I'm buying a screen, just to be sure my Sanyo can fill it. In that case I think I'll go for Grandview, since they are quite affordable here (around 400 here in Scandinavia, and bear in mind, this is an _expensive_ country).
> 
> And yes, I have thought of DIY screen. Problem is that I have my hands full with kids, and new one coming up in few days, so along with money I'm short oftime too, but.. Maybe I'll see if I can come up with some quickish DIY solution.
> 
> The room I originally thought of equipping with ST screen is 9,5 x9,5ft. It has white ceiling and white walls. Black floor and black furniture. Side wall has massive windows equipped with blinds and thick curtains that won't let light in (well some from the edges, but I'll have to live with that). What would be your choice of gain / colour for the fabric, if I can aquire some from ST?


If you stick with ST, you may want to consider the Silver 1.5 gain ambient light rejecting material. While you can control your lighting, in your small room with white walls and ceilings, you may have a lot of light reflections. This material could help with that.

Art measured your projector at 326 lumens calibrated. Not much, but you're not going with a huge screen. 

http://www.projectorreviews.com/sanyo/sanyo-plv-z3000-projector-review/

A 77" screen is ~18 square feet. 326 lumens/18sq ft*1.5 gain gives you ~27 foot lamberts. Plenty bright. You could use low lamp mode and save on lamp life while increasing contrast ratio. 

Or, if that's too bright, go with what you you were considering, the gray fabric.


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## Dominic Chan

biliam1982 said:


> If you stick with ST, you may want to consider the Silver 1.5 gain ambient light rejecting material. While you can control your lighting, in your small room with white walls and ceilings, you may have a lot of light reflections. This material could help with that.


The ST ALR screen is quite effective in rejecting reflections. However, many people are bothered by the uneven texture that is quite visible on bright scenes.
Also, the smallest ST screen is 92". For DIYers, their screen material has a 1.3 gain and is different from their matte white, matte grey and ALR screens.


----------



## Anjin

First, sorry for the off-topic (sadly my problem seems to have nothing to do with ST screens anymore)

I went through all screen retailers I could find, and it seems that my only options are Grandview 77" in 1.0 matte white or same screen in 0.8 grey. After consulting SWMBO I have let go of the DIY idea 

So, just to make sure: 8" Throw with PLV-Z3000, 77" screen, black floor, black furniture (that actually forms 15" deep "borders" to bottom and foot of the screen), blacked out windows and total light control (from door / lamps), but white ceiling and off-white walls. Official recommendation of the avsforum is to get the grey screen? 

_Edit: I could also buy KingPin Velvet screen made by swedish company. They are ~100 cheaper than Grandviews, but they buy their screen material, and quality has not been constant, so just to make sure I'll go for Grandview._


----------



## Dominic Chan

Anjin said:


> So, just to make sure: 8" Throw with PLV-Z3000, 77" screen, black floor, black furniture (that actually forms 15" deep "borders" to bottom and foot of the screen), blacked out windows and total light control (from door / lamps), but white ceiling and off-white walls. Official recommendation of the avsforum is to get the grey screen?


Grey screen can help with "external" ambient light; but if the only ambient light is from wall and ceiling reflections, you would get the same amount of degradation in contrast ratio as with a matte white screen.


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## Anjin

Dominic Chan said:


> Grey screen can help with "external" ambient light; but if the only ambient light is from wall and ceiling reflections, you would get the same amount of degradation in contrast ratio as with a matte white screen.


I somehow thought that grey screen, with 0.2 lower gain (0.8 vs 1.0) would help with those reflections (of projector produced light reflecting from the screen) too.. that it'd reflect fewer light from the screen to walls / ceiling that could reflect back?


----------



## Dominic Chan

Anjin said:


> I somehow thought that grey screen, with 0.2 lower gain (0.8 vs 1.0) would help with those reflections (of projector produced light reflecting from the screen) too.. that it'd reflect fewer light from the screen to walls / ceiling that could reflect back?


It depends on how you set up the projector.  The usual guideline is to adjust for 10-14 ft-L luminance on the screen. With a grey screen, you will need to boost the projector output by 20% to get the same luminance, and in doing so, it "overpowers" the _external _ambient light by the same amount. The _reflected_ ambient light, on the other hand, will remain at the same level, if you'r maintaining the same screen luminance.

If you switch from a white screen to a grey screen and keep the projector output the same, then the blacks will be darker by 20%, but so will the image and the reflected light. IOW, you have not improved the contrast.


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## biliam1982

@Anjin, were you planning on importing the Grandview or ST? Or is there a local dealer you plan to buy from?

If you were importing, maybe consider the local company, KingPin. It would be easier to deal with returns if the screen had a defect and you needed to swap it out. 

ST's have been known to have defects on them too. But, they seem to have good customer service in dealing with any issues. If you were importing them, it would make it much more difficult in working any problems.

Also, are you currently in that room? Or are planning on moving there? Reason I ask is because you should test out the throw on the wall to see how big the image really is @ an 8' throw. 

Projector manufacturers often have a margin or error on their specs. Say maybe ~10%. So you would want to make sure the screen you buy would work. Otherwise, it's safer to stay away from extreme ends of the projector's throw range.

Once tested, you may find a happy surprise and see you could actually go larger in screen size. Or, at least have more wiggle room if you had to adjust the projectors location for whatever reason, like cables sticking out of the back.

Maybe call ST directly and inquire about purchasing the ALR material directly or having a custom size built for you. 

Then, if you were importing, you could ask them to do a manual QC on the screen to make sure it's perfect before shipping to you. I've done that before when ordering a screen that had known defects.


----------



## Anjin

Dominic Chan: Thank you for clearing that up. I'm finally starting to understand the basics here 

Biliam1982: I can buy Grandview and Kingpin screens from local dealer. Other screens / DIYmaterials I'd have to order from abroad (and if they are sent from outside of the EU, pay customs (1-10%) and taxes (24%).

I have moved into the new apartment. Renovation is still ongoing, and my future "theater" is serving as a storage at the moment, but yes, I can and just have for example measure things. I put the projector on top of some boxes agains the rear wall, where it'll go when I get to installing it properly (empty wall / wall mount, so I have complete freedom where to put it), and fired it up. The "mount", nor projectors settings, is nowhere near what they'll be, so image was a little twisted, but I measured 43,6 width, 72,6 height and 83,7 diagonally. Naturally screen will tiny bit of the throw range (98 inches at the moment), but these measurement assure me that I'd be OK with 80" screen. Sadly Grandviews and Kingpins only come in 77" up here. Next size being 92".

I must say that the loss of, lets say 5 inches diagonally (77" bought vs 82" DIY), do make me reconsider building the screen myself, even though I know I will not have time for it at the moment.. or then I just skip sleeping for some time  

Thank you all for your support and advice!


----------



## biliam1982

Anjin said:


> Dominic Chan: Thank you for clearing that up. I'm finally starting to understand the basics here
> 
> Biliam1982: I can buy Grandview and Kingpin screens from local dealer. Other screens / DIYmaterials I'd have to order from abroad (and if they are sent from outside of the EU, pay customs (1-10%) and taxes (24%).
> 
> I have moved into the new apartment. Renovation is still ongoing, and my future "theater" is serving as a storage at the moment, but yes, I can and just have for example measure things. I put the projector on top of some boxes agains the rear wall, where it'll go when I get to installing it properly (empty wall / wall mount, so I have complete freedom where to put it), and fired it up. The "mount", nor projectors settings, is nowhere near what they'll be, so image was a little twisted, but I measured 43,6 width, 72,6 height and 83,7 diagonally. Naturally screen will tiny bit of the throw range (98 inches at the moment), but these measurement assure me that I'd be OK with 80" screen. Sadly Grandviews and Kingpins only come in 77" up here. Next size being 92".
> 
> I must say that the loss of, lets say 5 inches diagonally (77" bought vs 82" DIY), do make me reconsider building the screen myself, even though I know I will not have time for it at the moment.. or then I just skip sleeping for some time
> 
> Thank you all for your support and advice!


You know, there's another option that hasn't been mentioned yet either that is very cheap.

Do you have the flexibility to paint the room? And if so, what is the texture of your walls? Flat or something else?

This could do two things:

1. Painting the walls and ceilings a darker color would help with reflected light. Then you would be free to use a normal white screen.

2. If you could paint, you could actually use a specialized paint for the screen itself and just buy some cheap black felt tape to use as a border. That way, after the projector is mounted and the exact image size thrown would be known, you could get the largest size possible. 

See the DIY screen forum for recommendations and options in your area.

If you can't paint, I'd stick with a local seller vs importing. Then it just depends on the seller's return policy/customer service on defective screens. If it's good, maybe try the cheaper screen.

Either way, it's best to start your own thread in the forum or the DIY one to not hijack this thread further.


----------



## rtart

Anjin said:


> Thank you for the advice!
> 
> Yeah, I'm thinking 77", if I'm buying a screen, just to be sure my Sanyo can fill it. In that case I think I'll go for Grandview, since they are quite affordable here (around 400 here in Scandinavia, and bear in mind, this is an _expensive_ country).
> 
> And yes, I have thought of DIY screen. Problem is that I have my hands full with kids, and new one coming up in few days, so along with money I'm short oftime too, but.. Maybe I'll see if I can come up with some quickish DIY solution.
> 
> The room I originally thought of equipping with ST screen is 9,5 x9,5ft. It has white ceiling and white walls. Black floor and black furniture. Side wall has massive windows equipped with blinds and thick curtains that won't let light in (well some from the edges, but I'll have to live with that). What would be your choice of gain / colour for the fabric, if I can aquire some from ST?


At your size, the costs of a PJ and screen start to stack up well against a larger flat panel TV. A 70" or 80" flat panel TV may give you a better picture at around the same price.


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## Dominic Chan

Anjin said:


> I must say that the loss of, lets say 5 inches diagonally (77" bought vs 82" DIY), do make me reconsider building the screen myself, even though I know I will not have time for it


Silver Ticket sells the "raw" screen material for $50 which is very reasonable, especially for 1.3 gain. There has been no reviews of the material, however.

[EDIT: I have ordered the raw material and will be comparing it with the matte white 1.1 and the silver 1.5].


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## blkwrxwgn

Didn't have time to read each post but has anybody had issues with the AT screen and seeing the weave in bright scenes? It actually doesn't even have to be a bright scene but just any lighter colors and I see the weave of the material.

120" screen at 13'


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## mishari84

Dominic Chan said:


> Silver Ticket sells the "raw" screen material for $50 which is very reasonable, especially for 1.3 gain. There has been no reviews of the material, however.
> 
> [EDIT: I have ordered the raw material and will be comparing it with the matte white 1.1 and the silver 1.5].


best news ever

I sent an email if the 1.5 is better their original accuracy wise, they said it should be as good or better. I am also worried about no black layer on the back.

Your review will help a lot


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## Dominic Chan

mishari84 said:


> I sent an email if the 1.5 is better their original accuracy wise, they said it should be as good or better. I am also worried about no black layer on the back.


The gain of the new material is 1.3.

The original one is 0.95 gain (even though advertised as 1.1). Its colours were quite accurate except for a slight bluish tint which raises the colour temperature by 500K, but that can be calibrated out. I don't think the lack of black backing layer is an issue, as long as the screen is hung against the wall (i.e., not light coming from the back).

Since this is only a raw material (not "ready-to-hang"), it will take me some time to cut it to size and make the pockets.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Dominic Chan said:


> Since this is only a raw material (not "ready-to-hang"), it will take me some time to cut it to size and make the pockets.


Just received the Silver Ticket material. As mentioned in my previous post, this is just the raw material so I will have to find some way to mount it on the frame to actually use it for watching movies.
However, I just held up the material on the existing matte white screen, and did some quick comparisons using an old Epson 8100 projector. The projector was calibrated for 2-point grey scale (20% and 80%). My initial results are _very encouraging_:

1. Colour accuracy. As noted in my previous posts, the Silver Ticket Matte White screen is very good except for a bluish tint which adds about 500K to the colour temperature which needs to be calibrated out. In comparison, the new raw material is very neutral, with no colour shift when measuring off the screen compared with measuring the projected light directly. I've attached the RGB response curves for the two screen materials; the dotted lines correspond to the direct measurements without screen. Since the projector only has a two-point grey scale calibration, you should only look at the difference relative to the direct measurement.

2. Gain. I took a screen shot showing the two materials together with a sheet of bright white paper. The results speak for themselves. The raw material is visibly brighter.

3. Texture. The new material has a slight sheen when viewed at certain angles; i.e., it is not as "flat" as the Matte White. The sheen should not be visible at normal viewing angles. As a matter of fact, the material looks strikingly similar to the Carada Brilliant White sample that I have.

Even though the results are preliminary as the material has not yet been mounted, I can safely say that the material is excellent, especially considering the very low price of $50 they are selling it for.


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## Dominic Chan

curtishd said:


> Has anyone been able to compare screen materials with Carada?


The Silver Ticket Matte White has a measured gain of 0.95, and is less bright than the Carada Brilliant White. It also has a slight bluish tint. 
The new Silver Ticket 1.3 gain material, on the other hand, is remarkably similar to the Carada Brilliant White, in colour, gain, and screen texture. However, for the time being, the 1.3 gain material is only available in "raw" material format.


----------



## Dave Harper

Dominic Chan said:


> The Silver Ticket Matte White has a measured gain of 0.95, and is less bright than the Carada Brilliant White. It also has a slight bluish tint.
> The new Silver Ticket 1.3 gain material, on the other hand, is remarkably similar to the Carada Brilliant White, in colour, gain, and screen texture. However, for the time being, the 1.3 gain material is only available in "raw" material format.


Have you done a comparison to the Stewart ST 130 screens?


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## Dominic Chan

Dave Harper said:


> Have you done a comparison to the Stewart ST 130 screens?


I haven't, but the Wirecutter review compared the Matte White against the ST 130.


----------



## RRizzle

I purchased a 150" 16x9 screen and I have ripples along all four sides of the frame. I'll post some pics when I get a chance but I was wondering if anyone else has this problem? I got the acoustically transparent screen. Thanks


----------



## mishari84

Dominic Chan said:


> The Silver Ticket Matte White has a measured gain of 0.95, and is less bright than the Carada Brilliant White. It also has a slight bluish tint.
> The new Silver Ticket 1.3 gain material, on the other hand, is remarkably similar to the Carada Brilliant White, in colour, gain, and screen texture. However, for the time being, the 1.3 gain material is only available in "raw" material format.


Could you measure ftl on 100% pattern on both materials?


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## Dominic Chan

mishari84 said:


> Could you measure ftl on 100% pattern on both materials?


It's difficult to measure the luminance off a letter-sized sample:
- it's hard to ensure that the meter is reading only from that area
- the material is not stretched and there are localized glare spots that affect the reading


----------



## Dominic Chan

Dominic Chan said:


> It's difficult to measure the luminance off a letter-sized sample:


In any case, I laid the samples on the floor and took a picture of them. Based on that, the Silver Ticket Raw Material is very slightly brighter that the Carada Brilliant White, and both of these are noticeably brighter than the Carada Classic Cinema White.


----------



## zeusjake

Swolephile said:


> I recently changed to a Epson HC-3500. Much better placement with lens shift. Now the graininess with 120" Silver Ticker screen is almost completely gone and the picture looks fantastic. Placement is key with these alr screens. It can make all the difference.


I'm buying this house but the owners are taking the screen and projector, you mentioned having the same projector as I'm buying (Epson 3500) the projector would be mounted as you see in the picture 14'6" from the screen. Do you think the ALR screen will show much sparkle? viewing distance would be about the same distance. I'll replace the red curtains with blackout ones. This is the basement so I can control the light its just that every time we go down there I don't want to turn the lights all the way off. 
Thanks


----------



## bouf0010

zeusjake said:


> I'm buying this house but the owners are taking the screen and projector, you mentioned having the same projector as I'm buying (Epson HT3500) the projector would be mounted as you see in the picture 14'6" from the screen. Do you think the ALR screen will show much sparkle? viewing distance would be about the same distance. I'll replace the red curtains with blackout ones. This is the basement so I can control the light its just that every time we go down there I don't want to turn the lights all the way off.
> Thanks


its hit or miss with the ALR... im on my 4th material. The first one i had showed sparkles and there was a noticeable pattern so ST sent me a new "inspected" material which had no sparkles and very little grain to it. I unfortunately destroyed that one so i had to purchase a replacement. Same thing happened as the first material, sparkles, pattern etc. ST once again sent me a new inspected material and i dont have any sparkles and very little grainyness. Im projecting from about 15' with a hw40es.

Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk


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## kennyb03

zeusjake said:


> I'm buying this house but the owners are taking the screen and projector, you mentioned having the same projector as I'm buying (Epson 3500) the projector would be mounted as you see in the picture 14'6" from the screen. Do you think the ALR screen will show much sparkle? viewing distance would be about the same distance. I'll replace the red curtains with blackout ones. This is the basement so I can control the light its just that every time we go down there I don't want to turn the lights all the way off.
> Thanks


zeusjake,

I'm considering the Epson HC3500 plus the Silver Ticket ALR screen. I would love to see some pictures at different angles with daylight present.

I'll be about 18' from the screen so I don't think sparkles will be an issue, I'm just still trying to decide on projector vs TV.

If anyone else has this combo, please share! thanks


----------



## rtart

RRizzle said:


> I purchased a 150" 16x9 screen and I have ripples along all four sides of the frame. I'll post some pics when I get a chance but I was wondering if anyone else has this problem? I got the acoustically transparent screen. Thanks


I bought a 120" AT screen and had similar issues. It appeared that the fabric was improperly sewn and/or heat sealed with puckers embedded in the seam. (Pix in this thread above) No way to get it out, so I asked ST to replace the fabric. They did so, quickly, and no issues at all with the new fabric.

Guessing that this could be your issue as well.


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## AllenA07

When I got my 110 inch screen I had some issues with ripples. However, over time they seem to have mostly gone away. At this point (about 6 months into the life of the screen) I don't have any noticeable ripples.


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## mishari84

Dominic Chan said:


> In any case, I laid the samples on the floor and took a picture of them. Based on that, the Silver Ticket Raw Material is very slightly brighter that the Carada Brilliant White, and both of these are noticeably brighter than the Carada Classic Cinema White.


how is your experience so far compared to original ST white?


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## Dominic Chan

mishari84 said:


> how is your experience so far compared to original ST white?


It's raw material. I have yet to create the "pockets" to mount it.


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## p0opstlnksal0t

Im thinking about running the ALR 135" with am HC1200 projector in my living room. At 18' viewing distance will the sparkling be much of an issue? there is a bit of ambient light but its not too bad. The following shows an HW40ES shot against the wall where we plan to run the 135" screen one with the kitchen light on and one with the door entry way light on


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## surfingstephens

I just put together my new Silver Ticket 120" screen. The assembly was pretty easy and straight forward. When it came to the center pole everyone has a hard time with I just broke out a hammer and tapped it into position. No problem. I have some pictures I took of the Silver Ticket screen up against my old screen which was also a DIY screen, but it appears they used blackout cloth for it. I will try and post them tomorrow, but the files are slightly too large and it will not let me upload them. 


I am pleased with the difference. It is nothing dramatic at all, but just "better". You can see more "pop" with screen and more contrast it appears. The best way I can describe it is the picture looks "richer" and deeper than the previous one. To me and my daughter the difference is very obvious. Particularly when there are dark blacks and colors mixed in. To my wife, she does not see it as much. Odd. Because it is clear to my daughter and I. So if you already have a screen expect it to be better, but not earth shattering better, but I will say that to me, it was worth it and I am very pleased with what I see. The screen is much whiter than the previous screen and I bet it has more gain because I see it in the pop it has. I will try to get some pics up to tomorrow.


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## surfingstephens

surfingstephens said:


> I just put together my new Silver Ticket 120" screen. The assembly was pretty easy and straight forward. When it came to the center pole everyone has a hard time with I just broke out a hammer and tapped it into position. No problem. I have some pictures I took of the Silver Ticket screen up against my old screen which was also a DIY screen, but it appears they used blackout cloth for it. I will try and post them tomorrow, but the files are slightly too large and it will not let me upload them.
> 
> 
> I am pleased with the difference. It is nothing dramatic at all, but just "better". You can see more "pop" with screen and more contrast it appears. The best way I can describe it is the picture looks "richer" and deeper than the previous one. To me and my daughter the difference is very obvious. Particularly when there are dark blacks and colors mixed in. To my wife, she does not see it as much. Odd. Because it is clear to my daughter and I. So if you already have a screen expect it to be better, but not earth shattering better, but I will say that to me, it was worth it and I am very pleased with what I see. The screen is much whiter than the previous screen and I bet it has more gain because I see it in the pop it has. I will try to get some pics up to tomorrow.



One more update to this post. I got the screen mounted up on the wall and got the full effect of having the entire screen being projected onto vs. the 1/4 screen I had up yesterday. I would say "wow" rather than just "better". It is really that much better! Very pleased with it, so if you currently are using a black out cloth, I would highly recommend you take the plunge, worth the money.


----------



## lifeisbeautiful

zeusjake said:


> I'm buying this house but the owners are taking the screen and projector, you mentioned having the same projector as I'm buying (Epson 3500) the projector would be mounted as you see in the picture 14'6" from the screen. Do you think the ALR screen will show much sparkle? viewing distance would be about the same distance. I'll replace the red curtains with blackout ones. This is the basement so I can control the light its just that every time we go down there I don't want to turn the lights all the way off.
> Thanks


Just curious. What screen is that? It looks very good for the amount of light in the room!


----------



## surfingstephens

Finally got around to shrinking the pictures down. The new screen(Silver Ticket) is to the right and on the floor. Notice the white difference. I think if you look you can see what I see which is the depth and differences. It almost looked like a magnifying glass had been placed on the screen and the image was just sharper. Interesting comparison. The projector is an Epson 5030ub, 120" screen, about 16 feet back.


----------



## smeg36

I'm looking at buying a silver ticket screen for a projector in my living room. My wife was always adamantly against getting a projector, but now she want to get a bigger wrap around couch for our living room. I told her I would only move the couch farther from the screen if I could get a projector, and the bargain was struck.

The problem with my living room is the 3 south facing windows that would be directly behind the screen, and one west facing window that would be to the side of the screen. As I understand, both the grey and ALR would help with ambient light. I contacted silver ticket to ask their opinion of which would be better, and they said the ALR screen wouldn't be a good choice if there are windows facing toward the screen. I have blackout curtains, but some light still gets in around the edges. So which screen should I get in this setup? I measured out the wall that it will be hanging on, and the width of my speakers, and found the 92" would just barely fit. I wish I could've gone bigger, but the wall isn't wide enough to fit a larger screen.


----------



## Dominic Chan

smeg36 said:


> The problem with my living room is the 3 south facing windows that would be directly behind the screen, and one west facing window that would be to the side of the screen. As I understand, both the grey and ALR would help with ambient light. I contacted silver ticket to ask their opinion of which would be better, and they said the ALR screen wouldn't be a good choice if there are windows facing toward the screen.


Are the windows_ behind _the screen, or_ facing _the screen? It is true that ALR screens won't be very effective if the light is facing the screen; but light coming from the side is exactly where ALR screen works best.


----------



## smeg36

Dominic Chan said:


> smeg36 said:
> 
> 
> 
> The problem with my living room is the 3 south facing windows that would be directly behind the screen, and one west facing window that would be to the side of the screen. As I understand, both the grey and ALR would help with ambient light. I contacted silver ticket to ask their opinion of which would be better, and they said the ALR screen wouldn't be a good choice if there are windows facing toward the screen.
> 
> 
> 
> Are the windows_ behind _the screen, or_ facing _the screen? It is true that ALR screens won't be very effective if the light is facing the screen; but light coming from the side is exactly what ALR screen works best.
Click to expand...

They will be behind the seating, facing toward the screen.


----------



## jaykay0222

surfingstephens said:


> Finally got around to shrinking the pictures down. The new screen(Silver Ticket) is to the right and on the floor. Notice the white difference. I think if you look you can see what I see which is the depth and differences. It almost looked like a magnifying glass had been placed on the screen and the image was just sharper. Interesting comparison. The projector is an Epson 5030ub, 120" screen, about 16 feet back.


What's the other screen


----------



## surfingstephens

jaykay0222 said:


> What's the other screen


I wish I could tell you. I bought it off ebay several years ago as a kit. The nice thing about it is the frame is all solid wood and dowel together and very sturdy. It was about three times the work of doing this aluminum screen.


----------



## Sense/Net

Figured I'd chime in with my experience with silver ticket screens.

Some background - I'm coming from a 92" blackout cloth DIY with a Sanyo Z3. It was downstairs in my old house, but got taken out a few years ago when the kids needed the space as a playroom. Now in the new house I have a dedicated media room, so time for some updates.

I went with the Sony VPL-HW40ES, didn't want to spend months projector shopping so I bought what all were calling the best. My DIY screen was a fixed frame that hung from the ceiling in front of a window, but it looked way too small on the wall in the new room. After some research I found the Silver Ticket screens and ordered a 106". Great combo with the Sony, no issues, easy to put together, excellent picture.

But it still looked a bit too small on the wall. We sit about 13' back. Ordered a 110", it was even easier to put together since it uses L-brackets with screw holes instead of flat brackets over plastic Ls. I had to adjust the corners several times on the 106", it was finicky with the brackets. Not so with the 110". Size is now perfect for us for our seating distance.

All's good now, right? Nope. No matter what I do, the 110" is not as sharp as the 106". The 110" screen material is not the same as the 106", it has more texture, plus it hotspots right in the middle. Both screens are supposed to be matte white, but side by side the 110" is shinier than the 106". It got annoying enough that I took down the 110" and put back the 106". Got my sharpness back.

The 106" is still too small. Hmm. Ordered the raw material after reading the description on the website. When it came in the mail, I put it against the 110" screen and it made the 110" material look bluish. It was clearly more neutral white than the 110" screen. Promising. I cut just over the 110"s size, made rod pockets by folding over the edges and gluing them down with shower pan liner adhesive (it bonds vinyl to vinyl VERY well. Make sure to let it dry to tacky before letting it touch the other surface) Used a hole punch to make the cutouts for the tension posts. Let the adhesive set for a few hours before mounting it to the 110" frame.

Now I'm finally good. The screen is the right size, it matches or exceeds the sharpness of the 106" material because it has NO texture. This is the stuff they should be selling inside the kits. Its more neutral and its brighter than the default material.

The only downside is that it has that new-vinyl smell that doesn't go away for a few days. If you're at all handy, I'd recommend buying the kit in whatever size that's good for you, and also buy the raw material. Use it instead of the default screen.


----------



## AMartin56

Sense/Net said:


> Figured I'd chime in with my experience with silver ticket screens.
> 
> Some background - I'm coming from a 92" blackout cloth DIY with a Sanyo Z3. It was downstairs in my old house, but got taken out a few years ago when the kids needed the space as a playroom. Now in the new house I have a dedicated media room, so time for some updates.
> 
> I went with the Sony VPL-HW40ES, didn't want to spend months projector shopping so I bought what all were calling the best. My DIY screen was a fixed frame that hung from the ceiling in front of a window, but it looked way too small on the wall in the new room. After some research I found the Silver Ticket screens and ordered a 106". Great combo with the Sony, no issues, easy to put together, excellent picture.
> 
> But it still looked a bit too small on the wall. We sit about 13' back. Ordered a 110", it was even easier to put together since it uses L-brackets with screw holes instead of flat brackets over plastic Ls. I had to adjust the corners several times on the 106", it was finicky with the brackets. Not so with the 110". Size is now perfect for us for our seating distance.
> 
> All's good now, right? Nope. No matter what I do, the 110" is not as sharp as the 106". The 110" screen material is not the same as the 106", it has more texture, plus it hotspots right in the middle. Both screens are supposed to be matte white, but side by side the 110" is shinier than the 106". It got annoying enough that I took down the 110" and put back the 106". Got my sharpness back.
> 
> The 106" is still too small. Hmm. Ordered the raw material after reading the description on the website. When it came in the mail, I put it against the 110" screen and it made the 110" material look bluish. It was clearly more neutral white than the 110" screen. Promising. I cut just over the 110"s size, made rod pockets by folding over the edges and gluing them down with shower pan liner adhesive (it bonds vinyl to vinyl VERY well. Make sure to let it dry to tacky before letting it touch the other surface) Used a hole punch to make the cutouts for the tension posts. Let the adhesive set for a few hours before mounting it to the 110" frame.
> 
> Now I'm finally good. The screen is the right size, it matches or exceeds the sharpness of the 106" material because it has NO texture. This is the stuff they should be selling inside the kits. Its more neutral and its brighter than the default material.
> 
> The only downside is that it has that new-vinyl smell that doesn't go away for a few days. If you're at all handy, I'd recommend buying the kit in whatever size that's good for you, and also buy the raw material. Use it instead of the default screen.


Interesting. But there is no way I'm going to mess with trimming my own material.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Sense/Net said:


> Now I'm finally good. The screen is the right size, it matches or exceeds the sharpness of the 106" material because it has NO texture. This is the stuff they should be selling inside the kits. Its more neutral and its brighter than the default material.


I came to the same conclusion when I looked at the new raw material (see Post 478 above). They recommend using HH-66 adhesive but it's a little hard to find here (in Canada).

Did you use the Oatey X-15? The instruction says the two surfaces need to be joined in 15-30 seconds, which is hard to do for a long joint.


----------



## Sense/Net

Dominic Chan said:


> I came to the same conclusion when I looked at the new raw material (see Post 478 above). They recommend using HH-16 adhesive but it's a little hard to find here (in Canada).
> 
> Did you use the *Oatey X-15*? Does it work in a similar way as contact cement? I might pick up a can from Home Depot tomorrow.


That's the stuff. But don't even try to use to use the applicator it comes with. If you cut it correctly, the fold will be narrower than the applicator. I used q-tips. You'll know it's ready to be bonded because it will soften the vinyl a bit.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Sense/Net said:


> That's the stuff. But don't even try to use to use the applicator it comes with. If you cut it correctly, the fold will be narrower than the applicator. I used q-tips. You'll know it's ready to be bonded because it will soften the vinyl a bit.


Approximately how much time do you have, before the two surfaces are joined together?


----------



## Sense/Net

Dominic Chan said:


> Approximately how much time do you have, before the two surfaces are joined together?


No more than 3-4 minutes. The short sides I was able to apply the glue all the way across before going back to attach the folds. On the long sides I only did half at a time.
One thing to be careful of, use finger pressure only, or a roller. Because this stuff softens the vinyl before it cures, you run the risk of leaving stretch marks if you use any pulling motions to secure the fold. i have a few on my edges, but they don't show up in the projected image.
Once it dried the first time I went back around the outer edge of the fold to make sure there was glue consistently placed.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Sense/Net said:


> No more than 3-4 minutes. The short sides I was able to apply the glue all the way across before going back to attach the folds. On the long sides I only did half at a time.


Thanks for the tip. 

A further question - how do you determine the right size? Silver Ticket told me to use the "rod-to-rod" dimensions and allow 1/2" for stretching. However, the existing screen, which has been in stretched position for 6 months, is smaller than that when "relaxed" (removed from the frame). I would probably make it even smaller, for material that has not been stretched.


----------



## Sense/Net

Dominic Chan said:


> Thanks for the tip.
> 
> A further question - how do you determine the right size? Silver Ticket told me to use the "rod-to-rod" dimensions and allow 1/2" for stretching. However, the existing screen, which has been in stretched position for 6 months, is smaller than that when "relaxed" (removed from the frame). I would probably make it even smaller, for material that has not been stretched.


I just assumed the raw material had the same amount of stretch as the regular screen. I overlayed the regular 110" over the raw and cut about an inch out on every side. Might have gotten lucky, but I felt this is one of those things you can't know until you do it. For a $50 price tag I just said screw it and tried. Had the material cost $100 I would've planned more.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Sense/Net said:


> Had the material cost $100 I would've planned more.


The material did cost me over $100 
It was $50 + $35 shipping to Canada + exchange rate.

However, it's still way cheaper than upgrading my projector to get the extra brightness


----------



## Sense/Net

Dominic Chan said:


> *The material did cost me over $100*
> It was $50 + $35 shipping to Canada + exchange rate.
> 
> However, it's still way cheaper than upgrading my projector to get the extra brightness


Ah.

I think you'll be fine. I did mine laying on the carpet in the media room while my son played Halo on the mounted 106" and the two cats kept investigating the new funny smelling can of green goo. I'd say the most important part is to let the glue set before you put any stress on it by mounting it.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Sense/Net said:


> I'd say the most important part is to let the glue set before you put any stress on it by mounting it.


And how long would you recommend for that? It's so tempting to enjoy the fruits of my labour


----------



## Sense/Net

Dominic Chan said:


> And how long would you recommend for that? It's so tempting to enjoy the fruits of my labour


I was finished gluing at 6pm, it sat until 11pm before I mounted it. I tried to make it overnight, but temptation got me too.


----------



## Sense/Net

So after a few days with the raw material, I can say it has one downside - light. Its probably a byproduct of having a brighter material, but ambient light washes this screen out more than it did the default 110" material. Not a huge problem for me as I can black out the room completely, but something to consider for others.


----------



## zeusjake

lifeisbeautiful said:


> Just curious. What screen is that? It looks very good for the amount of light in the room!


I'm pretty sure its photoshopped when I saw it in person the picture was really washed out.


----------



## jdwk

This is unfortunate that they are putting different material with the frames. Without having both types, how would you even know which material you received?

I think I'm gonna take the chance on one. I definitely want a scope screen, but I was trying to decide between going 12' wide and AT, or 10' wide and solid, leaving room for my speakers.

The only AT screen I've found acceptable is the Enlightor 4K which is very expensive. The ST woven material looks like Stewarts which is definitely noticeable from less than 8' away, so that is ruled out.

The JVC RS400 that should be here on Friday may not be able to light up a 144" wide AT screen anyway. I think the jury is still out since people just started getting them this week.

So that means solid, and since my primary use will be movies with the lights off, I think white is the way to go. There are some very non-linear jumps in price per size on Amazon, but the $380 for the 138" is still 5-10 times cheaper than any of the high end brands.

If I don't like it though, or decide the JVC can handle the 12' wide Seymour and my wallet can handle the cost, it's not something I can easily unload. I guess worse case is I am out $380.


----------



## Dominic Chan

jdwk said:


> This is unfortunate that they are putting different material with the frames. Without having both types, how would you even know which material you received?


Are you referring to the Silver Ticket matte white screens? (It's hard to tell which post you're commenting on, since there's no quoted text).
If so, I'm not aware of different types of material that depends on frames. The frame construction, on the other hand, is different between matte white and AT screens.


----------



## Sense/Net

Dominic Chan said:


> Are you referring to the Silver Ticket matte white screens? (It's hard to tell which post you're commenting on, since there's no quoted text).
> If so, I'm not aware of different types of material that depends on frames. The frame construction, on the other hand, is different between matte white and AT screens.


I think he's referring to my experience. My 106" and 110" screens are different material, the 110" has more texture. Both are the same 'color' though, the raw material makes them both look bluish.


----------



## jdwk

Yes I'm referring to sense/net's two different types of matte white.

Well if I want it here by Friday I have to order it now.

I guess you can't make an omelette without spending money.


----------



## DustinLH00

So I just read through all 18 pages and still have not seen good pics of the grey screen with different lighting conditions. One person posted a couple pics with light leakage through blinds. The other pics were of the material draped over an ALR screen, not properly mounted.

Can someone with a grey screen please post some pics in different lighting conditions? Maybe a dark room, natural daylight, and in-room lighting?

I just got the LG PF1000U ultra short throw projector, so ALR is not an option and I don't have complete control of ambient light, so white is not going to work. At this point all I can do is get grey, but would feel better seeing some pics.

Elite has dropped their CineGrey material in favor of the ALR material due to market demand, so options are fewer these days.


----------



## Balinus

DustinLH00 said:


> So I just read through all 18 pages and still have not seen good pics of the grey screen with different lighting conditions. One person posted a couple pics with light leakage through blinds. The other pics were of the material draped over an ALR screen, not properly mounted.
> 
> Can someone with a grey screen please post some pics in different lighting conditions? Maybe a dark room, natural daylight, and in-room lighting?
> 
> I just got the LG PF1000U ultra short throw projector, so ALR is not an option and I don't have complete control of ambient light, so white is not going to work. At this point all I can do is get grey, but would feel better seeing some pics.
> 
> Elite has dropped their CineGrey material in favor of the ALR material due to market demand, so options are fewer these days.


I will. Just mounted my matte grey screen yesterday. Give me a couple of hours.

Quite happy with it. I had almost the same constraints as you.


----------



## Dominic Chan

DustinLH00 said:


> Can someone with a grey screen please post some pics in different lighting conditions? Maybe a dark room, natural daylight, and in-room lighting?


Pictures are not very effective in demonstrating grey screens. The grey screen simply has a lower gain than the white screen, so everything looks similar, just dimmer. You essentially have to have a bright projector to "overpower" the ambient light, to get adequate contrast.
Thus, when looking at pictures of grey screens, you need to know how bright the images is (in cd/m^2 or ft-L), to get an idea what it would look like in your setup. Put it another way - for the same projector and the same ambient lighting, you will also need to know the screen size.


----------



## DustinLH00

Balinus said:


> I will. Just mounted my matte grey screen yesterday. Give me a couple of hours.
> 
> Quite happy with it. I had almost the same constraints as you.


Awesome! Thank you so much!



Dominic Chan said:


> Pictures are not very effective in demonstrating grey screens. The grey screen simply has a lower gain than the white screen, so everything looks similar, just dimmer. You essentially have to have a bright projector to "overpower" the ambient light, to get adequate contrast.
> Thus, when looking at pictures of grey screens, you need to know how bright the images is (in cd/m^2 or ft-L), to get an idea what it would look like in your setup. Put it another way - for the same projector and the same ambient lighting, you will also need to know the screen size.


With variations in projectors, setups, lighting characteristics, the same could be true about a picture for any screen to some degree. There are tons of pics in this thread with white screens and ALR screens, so I think it would be beneficial to get some of the grey.

I am going with a 92" screen and since the 100"+ screens are way more common, I doubt anyone will be able to post a similar size or similar projector, especially given the lower popularity of the grey material.

Since i have read the entire thread, I know you are personally not a big fan of the grey screens, but given my projector ALR is not an option. Elite is coming out with a ceiling light rejecting screen that would work, but they are not going to have under 110" in size. The only other option seems to be Screen Innovation's short throw zero edge that came out in April, but that is $4,199.00 for a 92".

If you have any constructive recommendations for me, given the projector and room conditions, then I would be glad to hear them.


----------



## Dominic Chan

DustinLH00 said:


> With variations in projectors, setups, lighting characteristics, the same could be true about a picture for any screen to some degree.


That's correct. It's my personal opinion that pictures cannot meaningfully "demonstrate" the quality of projectors and screens. One cannot judge whether a light grey screen is "better" than a white screen looking at pictures taken with different setups.

The only time picture can be of some help, is when they were taken side-by-side under _controlled environment_; in those cases, the _difference _in quality can be illustrated. 



> Since i have read the entire thread, I know you are personally not a big fan of the grey screens


In hindsight, some of my previous comments on grey screen were incorrect (made during "senior moments"). Grey screens _are _effective in reducing the contrast degradation in some situation, primarily by "overpowering" the ambient light. They will _not_ improve the contrast of the projector.


----------



## Balinus

*Grey Matte Screen*



DustinLH00 said:


> Awesome! Thank you so much!


Here's some images, taken early afternoon and not the best movie for such conditions (Bourne Identify, wuth lots of dark scenes). 

I'll take some more later today when the sun is gone. 

I use an Epson 5030UB. The screen shots were taken with the Living Room mode (about 1400 lumens). Screen is at 11 feet from the 100" screen. 

Without the shades on the door. 




































With the shades down.


----------



## DustinLH00

Balinus said:


> I'll take some more later today when the sun is gone.
> 
> I use an Epson 5030UB. The screen shots were taken with the Living Room mode (about 1400 lumens). Screen is at 11 feet from the 100" screen.


Thank you so much for doing this! I am looking forward to seeing the dark room shots as well, so I appreciate you posting back later.

This is really encouraging for me as your picture looks pretty good with all that light in the room and looks better than my wall does at the moment. You have 400 more lumens than I do, but your projector is 11' away where mine is less than 2' away, so I hope to get similar results.

I realize that your projector and room are different and your screen is 8" larger than mine will be, but perhaps given that my projector is significantly closer, the screen is smaller, and the ambient light is lower I will have good results as well.

I really wish I could afford that SI screen. It looks like a full array LED tv in the middle of a horribly bright convention floor.


----------



## Balinus

DustinLH00 said:


> Thank you so much for doing this! I am looking forward to seeing the dark room shots as well, so I appreciate you posting back later.
> 
> This is really encouraging for me as your picture looks pretty good with all that light in the room and looks better than my wall does at the moment. You have 400 more lumens than I do, but your projector is 11' away where mine is less than 2' away, so I hope to get similar results.
> 
> I realize that your projector and room are different and your screen is 8" larger than mine will be, but perhaps given that my projector is significantly closer, the screen is smaller, and the ambient light is lower I will have good results as well.
> 
> I really wish I could afford that SI screen. It looks like a full array LED tv in the middle of a horribly bright convention floor.


The image on the ST screen is really nice, even with daylight (imho). Though, you can't watch Batman-kind of movie. Dark scenes get washed out (you could use the brightness setting though if the viewwing is for the kids -> they generally don't care about black level!). You also need (In my house) a mode with 1400+ lumens, because of the door right beside the ST screen.

The following pictures with "night" viewing are not that good (blame it on the smartphone  ). I haven't found the setting to have a longer exposure with low ISO. I'll take some more with my other camera. 

With that being said, here's some night setting viewing from my smartphone (you can estimate the noise from the camera by looking outside the ST screen).

The mode used was Cinema in ECO (about 800 lumens I think).


----------



## DustinLH00

Balinus said:


> The image on the ST screen is really nice, even with daylight (imho). Though, you can't watch Batman-kind of movie. Dark scenes get washed out (you could use the brightness setting though if the viewwing is for the kids -> they generally don't care about black level!). You also need (In my house) a mode with 1400+ lumens, because of the door right beside the ST screen.


Thanks for posting those. They look pretty good to me, but not super bright. I went ahead and ordered the grey screen today from a third-party on Amazon since i t was $40 off, but now I have to wait until next week to get it. I don't want to send back the projector without testing it with a screen, but I don't want to have to send back a projector AND screen next week, lol.

I am just afraid my projector is not bright enough for a grey screen and that the image quality will not improve enough over my wall to justify the expense.


----------



## Balinus

DustinLH00 said:


> Thanks for posting those. They look pretty good to me, but not super bright. I went ahead and ordered the grey screen today from a third-party on Amazon since i t was $40 off, but now I have to wait until next week to get it. I don't want to send back the projector without testing it with a screen, but I don't want to have to send back a projector AND screen next week, lol.
> 
> I am just afraid my projector is not bright enough for a grey screen and that the image quality will not improve enough over my wall to justify the expense.


Compared to my wall, the screen is a definitive upgrade.

Tell us how it goes when you mount everything!


----------



## haas75

> *SCREEN IMPRESSIONS:* Absolutely lovin' the screen. HUGE upgrade from my old Carls blackout cloth DIY screen. Blacks are now dark and inky, colors are brighter and have more pop and the overall image is very silky and glossy. Definitely a noticeable difference between the vinyl screen material of the Silver Ticket vs the fabric of the Carls. Even with the lights on I still get a nice clear picture with only a little washout. It really does look like a huge LED TV on my wall, very happy and highly recommend. Simply cannot get a better screen for the price.


This is a PERFECT description of the upgrade from Carls to the Silver Ticket. I just did the exact same thing last night. It is well worth it! I used the home BOC for exactly a year and the pulled the trigger on a Silver Ticket and I would definitely say it is worth the $200

Oh one more thing, I always felt that my BenQ 1070 was a little dark however everyone always says it is a light cannon. Well now with the new screen it is a light cannon. Especially on bright scenes light a hockey game etc. it is really so much brighter now. I even checked to make sure I was in eco mode and it was.


----------



## Livin

haas75 said:


> Thi is a PERFECT description of the upgrad from Carls to the Silver Ticket. I just did the exact same thing last night. It is well worth it! I used the home BOC for exactly a year and the pulled the trigger on a Silver Ticket and I would definitely say it is worth the $200
> 
> Oh one more thing, I always felt that my BenQ 1070 was a little dark however everyone always says it is a light cannon. Well now with the new screen it is a light cannon. Especially on bright scenes light a hockey game etc. it is really so much brighter now. I even checked to make sure I was in eco mode and I was.


For people with BenQ W1070 W1075, etc...
I have a 110" DIY BOC and happy with it but looking to up to 120-140.
- Question for you... What size screen do you have and at what throw distance? 

For Everyone...
Has anyone compared a DIY Spandex screen to the Silver Ticket Screens? If I go Spandex I can place my center channel and floor standing speakers behind the screen since Spandex is AT. If I use non-AT (like ST) I'll need to get a smaller screen and place my pretty large center channel speaker below the screen. Right now I have my 110" screen only 32" from the floor so it will be pretty low.

thoughts?

thx for the input!


----------



## haas75

Livin said:


> For people with BenQ W1070 W1075, etc...
> I have a 110" DIY BOC and happy with it but looking to up to 120-140.
> - Question for you... What size screen do you have and at what throw distance?
> 
> For Everyone...
> Has anyone compared a DIY Spandex screen to the Silver Ticket Screens? If I go Spandex I can place my center channel and floor standing speakers behind the screen since Spandex is AT. If I use non-AT (like ST) I'll need to get a smaller screen and place my pretty large center channel speaker below the screen. Right now I have my 110" screen only 32" from the floor so it will be pretty low.
> 
> thoughts?
> 
> thx for the input!


I have a 110" (same as the BOC) and my throw distance on the 1070 is about 10'. I know my in-wall center channel is fairly low. I would have to get exact measurements. I think around 2' from the ground. I aimed the tweeters up on it to accommodate. 

The spandex thing is definitely an interesting concept I also tossed around the idea of using it however I then said to myself I have used a DIY one for a year and I can afford a real one so the hell with it buy a ST and I am glad I did. If there was one thing I had to pick on is I wish the frame was narrower. My DIY was only like an inch which I felt was more attractive.


----------



## charan777

I currently have an epson 1080ub projecting onto a dalite 106" damatte grey screen. I'm sitting 16 feet away.
I've had this setup for 7 years in by basement. Light control is reasonably good but not perfect like in a theatre.
I can't change my viewing distance but wanted a bigger screen to compensate. Something like a 128" or 135".
Because a have a bulk head in my basement the projector needs to be mounted less than 10 feet away from the screen.
This limits my choices to a short throw projector. I've decided to get the benq 1085st.
Just wondering what limits the short throw projector will place on screen materials because when it is ceiling mounted the throw angle is more extreme.
Was thinking of a silver ticket white vs grey vs alr.


----------



## charan777

*silver ticket screen for short throw projector*

I currently have an epson 1080ub projecting onto a dalite 106" damatte grey screen. I'm sitting 16 feet away.
I've had this setup for 7 years in by basement. Light control is reasonably good but not perfect like in a theatre.
I can't change my viewing distance but wanted a bigger screen to compensate. Something like a 128" or 135".
Because a have a bulk head in my basement the projector needs to be mounted less than 10 feet away from the screen.
This limits my choices to a short throw projector. I've decided to get the benq 1085st.
Just wondering what limits the short throw projector will place on screen materials because when it is ceiling mounted the throw angle is more extreme.
Was thinking of a silver ticket white vs grey vs alr.


----------



## Dominic Chan

charan777 said:


> Just wondering what limits the short throw projector will place on screen materials because when it is ceiling mounted the throw angle is more extreme.
> Was thinking of a silver ticket white vs grey vs alr.


Matte white and matte grey are both OK, but ALR does not work well with short throw.
For large screens, you need to check the calibrated lumens to see if it's bright enough for a low gain screen.


----------



## charan777

OK thanks.
So ALR screens are out for the 1085st.
Once I get the projector, I will try it out with my current 106" grey screen to make sure that it is brighter than my 1080ub. I guess then I can decide how much bigger I can go by enlarging the picture and watching the brightness go down on the grey.
If the brightness decreases too much then it may make sense to stay with the white and somehow add more light control in the room.


----------



## billymac

Howdy folks. Have a couple questions. I've got a new PJ on the way for our upstairs loft and am really wanting to ditch the pull-down and get a fixed screen. I've been looking at the Silver Ticket 92in and 100in diagonal models in matte white. 

Here's my dilemma: I've got a light switch (decora-style) in the way. Not an issue with a pull-down for obvious reasons, but it's one we can't live without or move. My question is, if I use an alternative mounting option, or simply use only the top mounts for the frame, will there be enough "play" or flex that I can get my hand or a ruler or something to flip the switch? I know it's not ideal, and we're looking into alternative remote switch options, but we're wanting to get a new screen hung prior to the holidays as their are children's gift implications. 

I'm pretty sure there's got to be at least a little bit of dead space between the backside of the screen material and the back of the frame and I know that the inside edge of the back of the frame falls outside the outer edge of the switch and trim plate. Just wondering what you owners think?

If you folks think it will work, I'm going to order so that I have it for the weekend. 

thanks in advance for any replies!


----------



## Livin

Switches are usually easy to move, or simply make it a three way by adding another switch that is tied in some where else... Or probably the easiest and cheapest... swap it for an automation switch and control with a remote or smart phone 

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## billymac

Thanks Livin, but unfortunately due to the layout of the loft, there's no available spot to locate it on the existing wall, or even around the corner. Hard to explain, but we're dealing with half walls on a portion of the space (opens to vaulted ceilings on one side and staircase on the other), so we quite literally don't have any options without a good amount of patch and finish work. Received a response from Silver Ticket and am at least at ease that I should be able to make it work until I find a remote switch option. I'll start by just securing the top and see what that yields. I think worst case, I may have to play with the mounting a bit. The projection wall is only ~102in wide, so 100in diag is the most I'm going to ever see here.


----------



## Dominic Chan

billymac said:


> I'll start by just securing the top and see what that yields. I think worst case, I may have to play with the mounting a bit.


No problems with only the top brackets, as long as the anchors are solid. The screen is only about 30 lbs in weight. Just make the anchors stick out about 1/2" to allow the screen to swing up.


----------



## billymac

Dominic Chan said:


> No problems with only the top brackets, as long as the anchors are solid. The screen is only about 30 lbs in weight. Just make the anchors stick out about 1/2" to allow the screen to swing up.


Perfect, thanks Dominic! Placed the order and paid for guaranteed Friday delivery. Projector arrives Friday as well. Can't wait for the upgrades!


----------



## bouf0010

billymac said:


> Thanks Livin, but unfortunately due to the layout of the loft, there's no available spot to locate it on the existing wall, or even around the corner. Hard to explain, but we're dealing with half walls on a portion of the space (opens to vaulted ceilings on one side and staircase on the other), so we quite literally don't have any options without a good amount of patch and finish work. Received a response from Silver Ticket and am at least at ease that I should be able to make it work until I find a remote switch option. I'll start by just securing the top and see what that yields. I think worst case, I may have to play with the mounting a bit. The projection wall is only ~102in wide, so 100in diag is the most I'm going to ever see here.


http://www.lutron.com/en-US/Products/Pages/SingleRoomControls/CasetaWireless/Overview.aspx


Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk


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## billymac

bouf0010 said:


> http://www.lutron.com/en-US/Products/Pages/SingleRoomControls/CasetaWireless/Overview.aspx
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk



Appreciate that, thanks! Those look nice. I'll dig into those tomorrow and figure out what I need. Thanks for the help everybody.


----------



## digitalreality

surfingstephens said:


> I just put together my new Silver Ticket 120" screen. The assembly was pretty easy and straight forward. When it came to the center pole everyone has a hard time with I just broke out a hammer and tapped it into position. No problem. I have some pictures I took of the Silver Ticket screen up against my old screen which was also a DIY screen, but it appears they used blackout cloth for it. I will try and post them tomorrow, but the files are slightly too large and it will not let me upload them.
> 
> 
> I am pleased with the difference. It is nothing dramatic at all, but just "better". You can see more "pop" with screen and more contrast it appears. The best way I can describe it is the picture looks "richer" and deeper than the previous one. To me and my daughter the difference is very obvious. Particularly when there are dark blacks and colors mixed in. To my wife, she does not see it as much. Odd. Because it is clear to my daughter and I. So if you already have a screen expect it to be better, but not earth shattering better, but I will say that to me, it was worth it and I am very pleased with what I see. The screen is much whiter than the previous screen and I bet it has more gain because I see it in the pop it has. I will try to get some pics up to tomorrow.


Hello there,

Thank you for posting pics. Did you get a Matte White Screen from Silver Ticket or the Ambient Light Reducing Screen? I must have missed it in your post, hope you can clue us in. Thanks again for posting pics.


----------



## Livin

surfingstephens said:


> Finally got around to shrinking the pictures down. The new screen(Silver Ticket) is to the right and on the floor. Notice the white difference. I think if you look you can see what I see which is the depth and differences. It almost looked like a magnifying glass had been placed on the screen and the image was just sharper. Interesting comparison. The projector is an Epson 5030ub, 120" screen, about 16 feet back.


What was the previous screen you are doing the comparison with?


----------



## luclin999

I just bought what I believe is their last piece of the 1.3 gain "Raw" material.

I'm not too afraid of cutting/framing it myself as my existing screen was a 100% DIY project.. 

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-screen-section/898112-floating-boc-screen.html

I'll be curious to see the difference that the material makes over the generic black out cloth that I have been using for the past eight years. Planning to put a sample up against the current screen for comparison after it gets here.


----------



## Livin

luclin999 said:


> I just bought what I believe is their last piece of the 1.3 gain "Raw" material.
> 
> I'm not too afraid of cutting/framing it myself as my existing screen was a 100% DIY project..
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-screen-section/898112-floating-boc-screen.html
> 
> I'll be curious to see the difference that the material makes over the generic black out cloth that I have been using for the past eight years. Planning to put a sample up against the current screen for comparison after it gets here.


Where did you buy the material and how much? 
Interested to see how you like it compared to BOC also. What is your projector and screen size? 

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


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## luclin999

Livin said:


> Where did you buy the material and how much?
> Interested to see how you like it compared to BOC also. What is your projector and screen size?
> 
> Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


Off their web site for $50. Item shows out of stock now though. 

Screen will be 98" in my dedicated room with the Epson 8500 UB & JVC DLA-RS15U projectors (Epson is for video/TV JVC is for films)


----------



## billymac

Received my 100in Matte White Silver Ticket fixed-frame screen last Thursday and got it assembled and mounted along with a new Vivitek H1186-WT projector. I have to say that I'm extremely pleased! The Silver Ticket screen is an incredible value and the image is fantastic coming from an old Da-Lite Model B pull-down (Waves BE GONE!). Packaging was perfect, assembly was straight forward, build quality solid and the finished product is outstanding. No waves, ripples or flaws in the material. Extremely happy with my purchase and so glad I found this thread as I was looking at a budget Elite.


----------



## woolfman

*DLP Silver Ticket help!*

I am getting ready to pull the trigger on this screen but I am a little nervous. I am using an SIM2 D80 DLP about lumens. I ready all of your responses that makes me comfortable with the performance of the screen. What makes me uncomfortable is the information I have found on youtube and Amazon. I was going after the ALR screen as I wanted to increase the contrast and brightness of this nearly 10 year old projector. 
One reviewer on Amazon stated this screen was like having glitter sprinkled all over it. I hope that is not the case. Also, I found a video on YouTube comparing a bare wall and a Silver Screen. There was no difference. That really bothers me. Can anyone help prove or disprove these two points? I see a lot of you are using LCD but have not seen anyones comments from a DLP perspective. Any help is appreciated.


Maybe a better question is should I just stick with Seymour or a Falcon screen?


----------



## billymac

I can't comment on the ALR other than to say that seating distance/position as it relates to screen size will be factors. Someone will chime in. 

I can comment from a DLP perspective and the whole bare wall thing. They are not the same--rest assured on that. 

Best of luck!


----------



## woolfman

billymac said:


> I can't comment on the ALR other than to say that seating distance/position as it relates to screen size will be factors. Someone will chime in.
> 
> I can comment from a DLP perspective and the whole bare wall thing. They are not the same--rest assured on that.
> 
> Best of luck!


 Thanks Billymac for you response. I forgot to add that my seating is about 15 feet from the screen with the PJ mounted at about 12' from the screen tucked into a tray ceiling. Some many choices and I hate over thinking it.


----------



## Dominic Chan

woolfman said:


> One reviewer on Amazon stated this screen was like having glitter sprinkled all over it. I hope that is not the case.


The ALR screen does have "sparklies" or glitter as that's what gives it the extra gain. How noticeable it is, depends on the viewing distance. I would definitely recommend sitting at least 12' away from it. I have also noticed some unevenness in the surface coating, although others here reported that this only affected some of the screens.



> Also, I found a video on YouTube comparing a bare wall and a Silver Screen. There was no difference. That really bothers me.


ALR screens only provide the advantage if you mount the projector at the "right" height. I have done some tests on the Silver Ticket ALR screen and posted my findings on this forum. See, for example, a comparison with matte white screen when there's a fair amount of ambient light:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=797050&d=1435346531


----------



## nstig8

blkwrxwgn said:


> Didn't have time to read each post but has anybody had issues with the AT screen and seeing the weave in bright scenes? It actually doesn't even have to be a bright scene but just any lighter colors and I see the weave of the material.
> 
> 120" screen at 13'


I just installed the 100" AT screen a couple days ago. I can easily see the weave of the material on any bright scene. I also sit at 13 feet. Everything else looks great, and it's not enough to make me return the screen - but if I had it to do over again I'd spend more for an AT screen that addresses this issue better.


----------



## Smurph

nstig8 said:


> I just installed the 100" AT screen a couple days ago. I can easily see the weave of the material on any bright scene. I also sit at 13 feet. Everything else looks great, and it's not enough to make me return the screen - but if I had it to do over again I'd spend more for an AT screen that addresses this issue better.



Thanks for the input. I have been debating the Silver Ticket AT screen and haven't found much info on it. Thinking of contacting Carl's or going DIY Milliskin. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.


----------



## prophcy0

nstig8 said:


> I just installed the 100" AT screen a couple days ago. I can easily see the weave of the material on any bright scene. I also sit at 13 feet. Everything else looks great, and it's not enough to make me return the screen - but if I had it to do over again I'd spend more for an AT screen that addresses this issue better.


Dang I hate to read this. I bought a 120" ST AT screen around three weeks ago but the theater room is still being finished so I haven't had a chance to try it out yet. All of the reviews I saw said that people didn't notice the weave from 12+ feet away, but I guess they're not as discerning as some. I KNOW I'll notice if other folks here are noticing it. My seating position will be around 13' back. Should I go ahead and return the screen for another brand or wait to see how noticeable it is?


----------



## VolkerH.

nstig8 said:


> I just installed the 100" AT screen a couple days ago. I can easily see the weave of the material on any bright scene. I also sit at 13 feet. Everything else looks great, and it's not enough to make me return the screen - but if I had it to do over again I'd spend more for an AT screen that addresses this issue better.



Darn... My second row will be at 13' but the first will be around 7'... yep, going IMAX feeling  ...
Guess time to consider going a little smaller and putting the LCR to the sides and under...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## dlclark

I have the AT 135" and am playing Elf as I'm typing. For me 10' seems to be the distracting cutoff. Under that, the texture is visible on nearly everything. Above 10' it's hardly noticeable to me except on bright scenes. I'm sitting at 12' now and can't detect the weave.

My kids have been playing video games and watching movies using games rockers and folding chairs until we finish the basement. They are set up at 10-11' based on their preference without direction from me.


----------



## Jbed27

Please see next post. The thread is giving me errors uploading pics.


----------



## Jbed27

Hello everyone, I'm new to this particular thread, but I have a question regarding the silver ticket screen that I was hoping someone here could answer. I just bought a house and am having the basement fully finished, so I am in the process of assembling my home theater components, and all the great reviews and price led me to the silver ticket screen. I just received a 110" screen, and since my basement will not be finished for a few weeks, I wanted to inspect it for flaws. I very carefully unrolled it and these pics are what it looks like just out of the box. There are two pics, one showing the vertical stripes and the other showing a "blistering" pattern around the 4 corners. I am hoping this will stretch out, but I don't want to go through all the trouble of doing that if this "as received" condition is way different than you guys have seen on yours. Thanks in advance for your feedback!


----------



## DekPM19

dlclark said:


> I have the AT 135" and am playing Elf as I'm typing. For me 10' seems to be the distracting cutoff. Under that, the texture is visible on nearly everything. Above 10' it's hardly noticeable to me except on bright scenes. I'm sitting at 12' now and can't detect the weave.
> 
> My kids have been playing video games and watching movies using games rockers and folding chairs until we finish the basement. They are set up at 10-11' based on their preference without direction from me.


Do you have any lights on while using your screen also how high off of the floor is you screen.
Allen


----------



## dlclark

DekPM19 said:


> Do you have any lights on while using your screen also how high off of the floor is you screen.
> Allen


No lights were on, the screen wall is flat black and the ceiling has black ceiling tiles. The screen is 20" from the floor.


----------



## DekPM19

dlclark said:


> No lights were on, the screen wall is flat black and the ceiling has black ceiling tiles. The screen is 20" from the floor.


Thanks for the feed back when you say 20" from the floor is that the picture or the outer edge of the screen. Sorry I should have been clear when I first asked you.
Thanks
Allen


----------



## DekPM19

Right now I have my projector shooting on the wall an my picture is at 17" off of the floor, but I am only setting 14' back right now and according to the thx distance calculator on a 135" you want to be at least 15.1' back.
Allen


----------



## Dominic Chan

Jbed27 said:


> There are two pics, one showing the vertical stripes and the other showing a "blistering" pattern around the 4 corners. I am hoping this will stretch out, but I don't want to go through all the trouble of doing that if this "as received" condition is way different than you guys have seen on yours.


I don't remember seeing the vertical stripes on mine as received, but I expect them to stretch out. The "blistering" looks normal before stretching. I think you can safely go ahead. Once the frame has been assembled, stretching take less than half an hour so it shouldn't be much trouble to confirm.


----------



## Jbed27

Dominic Chan said:


> Jbed27 said:
> 
> 
> 
> There are two pics, one showing the vertical stripes and the other showing a "blistering" pattern around the 4 corners. I am hoping this will stretch out, but I don't want to go through all the trouble of doing that if this "as received" condition is way different than you guys have seen on yours.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't remember seeing the vertical stripes on mine as received, but I expect them to stretch out. The "blistering" looks normal before stretching. I think you can safely go ahead. Once the frame has been assembled, stretching take less than half an hour so it shouldn't be much trouble to confirm.
Click to expand...

Thx for the response Dominic!


----------



## biliam1982

DekPM19 said:


> Right now I have my projector shooting on the wall an my picture is at 17" off of the floor, but I am only setting 14' back right now and according to the thx distance calculator on a 135" you want to be at least 15.1' back.
> Allen


I believe you're misunderstanding the THX distance recommendations. 

Where did you find this calculator?

THX generally errs on the side of immersion. So that ~15' distance seems off.

On their own website, they suggest dividing the diagonal screen size by .84. So a 135" 1.78:1 AR screen should be placed ~13'5" from the viewer.

http://www.thx.com/consumer/home-entertainment/home-theater/hdtv-set-up/

This theater calculator from Carlton Bale goes into even further breakdown of recommended viewing distances. It says that the 15.1' viewing distance is THX's Longest Recommended viewing distance:



> 4. Viewing Distances based on Visual Acuity: This distance is calculated based on the resolving power of the human eye (reference), or visual acuity. The human eye with 20/20 vision can detect or resolve details as small as 1/60th of a degree of arc. This distance represents the point beyond which some of the detail in the picture is no longer able to be resolved so pixels begin to blend together.


http://carltonbale.com/home-theater/home-theater-calculator/


----------



## DekPM19

biliam1982 said:


> I believe you're misunderstanding the THX distance recommendations.
> 
> Where did you find this calculator?
> 
> THX generally errs on the side of immersion. So that ~15' distance seems off.
> 
> On their own website, they suggest dividing the diagonal screen size by .84. So a 135" 1.78:1 AR screen should be placed ~13'5" from the viewer.
> 
> http://www.thx.com/consumer/home-entertainment/home-theater/hdtv-set-up/
> 
> 
> 
> This theater calculator from Carlton Bale goes into even further breakdown of recommended viewing distances. It says that the 15.1' viewing distance is THX's Longest Recommended viewing distance:
> 
> 
> 
> http://carltonbale.com/home-theater/home-theater-calculator/




http://myhometheater.homestead.com/viewingdistancecalculator.html

I may of miss spoke then this distanced calculator used thx at a 36 degree viewing and said recommended so that is where I came up with the number of 15.1 feet. 
Allen


----------



## dlclark

DekPM19 said:


> Thanks for the feed back when you say 20" from the floor is that the picture or the outer edge of the screen. Sorry I should have been clear when I first asked you.
> Thanks
> Allen


18 1/4" is the frame, 21 1/2" is the screen. I was giving you the middle measurement.


----------



## DekPM19

dlclark said:


> 18 1/4" is the frame, 21 1/2" is the screen. I was giving you the middle measurement.


Thanks for the information I have my picture at about 17" off of the floor right now. I am just using the wall for a couple weeks to make sure I like it.
Allen


----------



## Jbed27

Important decision that I need some advice on... I just got a Sony HW55ES delivered, and my basement in currently being finished. I will be projecting to a silver ticket white 1.1 gain screen. I have to decide whether to mount my projector in front of my bulkhead, on the ceiling (8 foot ceiling) or on (under) the bulkhead (7 foot bulkhead). I prefer to mount it to the ceiling, since the viewing area will be under the bulkhead and this will keep the projector out of sight, but I have JUST ENOUGH room as far as throw distance on the ceiling option. I will literally be 1.5" away from the minimum throw distance. What I am wondering is, if I mount it that close, do I risk hot spotting on the screen? The Sony has iris control, but I am not sure if that will mitigate any potential issues. I've read on other sites that the closer you mount the projector, the higher likelihood of hot spotting, but I'm also not using a high gain screen. I'm assembling a projection based home theater for the first time, so I don't have a frame of reference. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!

Joe


----------



## Dominic Chan

Jbed27 said:


> What I am wondering is, if I mount it that close, do I risk hot spotting on the screen? The Sony has iris control, but I am not sure if that will mitigate any potential issues.


The Silver Ticket Matte White screen has a measured gain of about 0.95, in spite of the claimed 1.1. It has a very wide viewing angle and you shouldn't be getting any hotspotting even at the minimum throw distance.
Their 1.3 gain screen material, on the other hand, does show mild hotspotting.


----------



## Jbed27

Dominic Chan said:


> The Silver Ticket Matte White screen has a measured gain of about 0.95, in spite of the claimed 1.1. It has a very wide viewing angle and you shouldn't be getting any hotspotting even at the minimum throw distance.
> Their 1.3 gain screen material, on the other hand, does show mild hotspotting.


Thanks again!


----------



## mishari84

Dominic Chan said:


> The Silver Ticket Matte White screen has a measured gain of about 0.95, in spite of the claimed 1.1. It has a very wide viewing angle and you shouldn't be getting any hotspotting even at the minimum throw distance.
> Their 1.3 gain screen material, on the other hand, does show mild hotspotting.


have you compared both in real viewing to how different they are?


----------



## Dominic Chan

mishari84 said:


> have you compared both in real viewing to how different they are?


The hotspotting was observed during real viewing.


----------



## Jbed27

I got my 110" all assembled today, and it was fairly straight forward. The one suggestion I have for the infamous center bar is to install it before you stretch the screen. I tested the install beforehand and it went in fairly easy with light tapping from a small hammer, so I thought I got lucky since I've read so many posts that this thing was a pain in the a$$. But... After I stretched the screen and then installed the bar, it was very difficult. I believe the screen tension must be pulling the frame together just enough to make this bar very difficult. I had to hammer it fairly hard to get it in, but as long as you're careful, you won't damage anything. It's not that it's hard to get hammered most of the way... The issue is when the tongue of the bar gets to the seam... The seam will be barely not flush, and the bar will catch and get stuck. If I had to do it again, I'd put it in before the screen stretching and I would add a little oil for lubrication. This frame is engineered very nicely. But their biggest flaw is making the hanger tabs and center bar out of the same material as the frame (aluminum). Similar metals is a guarantee for binding. If they made the hangers out of steel, they would slide much better. Anyway, just an FYI for anyone else that may be getting into this for the first time.

Joe


----------



## mishari84

Dominic Chan said:


> The hotspotting was observed during real viewing.


you mentioned this already, I meant how is the observed difference in colors, brightness and overall impression?


----------



## Dominic Chan

Jbed27 said:


> There are two pics, one showing the vertical stripes and the other showing a "blistering" pattern around the 4 corners. I am hoping this will stretch out, but I don't want to go through all the trouble of doing that if this "as received" condition is way different than you guys have seen on yours.


Any updates on the vertical strips and blistering, now that you have assembled the screen?


----------



## Jbed27

Dominic Chan said:


> Any updates on the vertical strips and blistering, now that you have assembled the screen?



Yes, I actually meant to message you about that yesterday. The material completely stretched out and looks perfect. I went all over it with different lighting angles, right up on it, from the side, etc... , and I couldn't detect anything as far as where those creases or blisters were, so it looks great! I gave it a test drive with some blue ray content and am blown away by the image. I have always been into TV based home theater setups and research, etc... but with projection and having nothing to compare it to... I have to say that I would be shocked if a $2,000+ screen would look $1,800+ better than the picture I had with the lights off last night. I am extremely pleased with the Silver Ticket screen.


----------



## H4lfbr33d

Jbed27 said:


> Yes, I actually meant to message you about that yesterday. The material completely stretched out and looks perfect. I went all over it with different lighting angles, right up on it, from the side, etc... , and I couldn't detect anything as far as where those creases or blisters were, so it looks great! I gave it a test drive with some blue ray content and am blown away by the image. I have always been into TV based home theater setups and research, etc... but with projection and having nothing to compare it to... I have to say that I would be shocked if a $2,000+ screen would look $1,800+ better than the picture I had with the lights off last night. I am extremely pleased with the Silver Ticket screen.


This is great to hear. I will be looking into getting one of these myself.


----------



## Jbed27

H4lfbr33d said:


> Jbed27 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I actually meant to message you about that yesterday. The material completely stretched out and looks perfect. I went all over it with different lighting angles, right up on it, from the side, etc... , and I couldn't detect anything as far as where those creases or blisters were, so it looks great! I gave it a test drive with some blue ray content and am blown away by the image. I have always been into TV based home theater setups and research, etc... but with projection and having nothing to compare it to... I have to say that I would be shocked if a $2,000+ screen would look $1,800+ better than the picture I had with the lights off last night. I am extremely pleased with the Silver Ticket screen.
> 
> 
> 
> This is great to hear. I will be looking into getting one of these myself.
Click to expand...

These are some sample pics right out of the box, I didn't tweak anything yet. I did a rough install before my basement is finished because I was dangerously close to the minimum throw distance and I wanted to make absolutely sure it was going to work mounted on the ceiling. Forgive me for the "Frozen"... We just moved and all my blue rays are still packed away somewhere and the only one I had out was this one. Even though these are pictures of a picture, I still think they look fantastic.


----------



## Jbed27

Jbed27 said:


> H4lfbr33d said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jbed27 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I actually meant to message you about that yesterday. The material completely stretched out and looks perfect. I went all over it with different lighting angles, right up on it, from the side, etc... , and I couldn't detect anything as far as where those creases or blisters were, so it looks great! I gave it a test drive with some blue ray content and am blown away by the image. I have always been into TV based home theater setups and research, etc... but with projection and having nothing to compare it to... I have to say that I would be shocked if a $2,000+ screen would look $1,800+ better than the picture I had with the lights off last night. I am extremely pleased with the Silver Ticket screen.
> 
> 
> 
> This is great to hear. I will be looking into getting one of these myself.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> These are some sample pics right out of the box, I didn't tweak anything yet. I did a rough install before my basement is finished because I was dangerously close to the minimum throw distance and I wanted to make absolutely sure it was going to work mounted on the ceiling. Forgive me for the "Frozen"... We just moved and all my blue rays are still packed away somewhere and the only one I had out was this one. Even though these are pictures of a picture, I still think they look fantastic.
Click to expand...

The other thing I wanted to mention is that the viewing angle is insane.. You can literally walk almost to the absolute extreme edges of the screen and if there is image degradation, it was nearly imperceptible. I couldn't believe it. It was like I had a giant plasma screen on the wall. I'm running it through a Sony HW55ES.


----------



## MMcDermott

Hey all, 

The theater half of our basement measures 20 1/2 ft L x 14 1/2 ft W x 6 1/2 ft H, couldn't get the better half to agree to black paint but compromised with a dark brown called molasses, projector is Benq W1070. We intend to go with a 135" Silver Ticket fixed screen, would you recommend the Matte White or the Grey (due to DLP)?

Thanks!


----------



## Jbed27

MMcDermott said:


> Hey all,
> 
> The theater half of our basement measures 20 1/2 ft L x 14 1/2 ft W x 6 1/2 ft H, couldn't get the better half to agree to black paint but compromised with a dark brown called molasses, projector is Benq W1070. We intend to go with a 135" Silver Ticket fixed screen, would you recommend the Matte White or the Grey (due to DLP)?
> 
> Thanks!


Since your space looks 100% light controlled, I would think the matte white is the best choice.


----------



## Livin

MMcDermott said:


> Hey all,
> 
> The theater half of our basement measures 20 1/2 ft L x 14 1/2 ft W x 6 1/2 ft H, couldn't get the better half to agree to black paint but compromised with a dark brown called molasses, projector is Benq W1070. We intend to go with a 135" Silver Ticket fixed screen, would you recommend the Matte White or the Grey (due to DLP)?
> 
> Thanks!


Definitely white. I have a Benq w1070 and use BOC 110". I turn off the closest can lights and can dim the rest to 30% and have very little wash... This is great for when wanting to have social time and watch the game. Highly suggest getting lights you can control separately in the front, more useful than you might think 

Btw, what brand and color is that.. Might do well in my space as I'm looking to repaint soon. Thx

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## MMcDermott

Livin said:


> Definitely white. I have a Benq w1070 and use BOC 110". I turn off the closest can lights and can dim the rest to 30% and have very little wash... This is great for when wanting to have social time and watch the game. Highly suggest getting lights you can control separately in the front, more useful than you might think
> 
> Btw, what brand and color is that.. Might do well in my space as I'm looking to repaint soon. Thx
> 
> Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


Paint is Lucite & the color is called "Molasses"

The four can lights on the theater side are all controlled by the same dimmer but the basement extends almost the same length in the other direction with more lights on a separate dimmer & you can get enough "social lighting" from them. 

That test pattern I have up on the image is pretty close to dimensions for a 135"screen, I may be really close & hope once the screen is up I'll still be able to fit my center channel underneath it but will need to get the frame all the way up to the ceiling. 120" just seemed too small.


----------



## MMcDermott

Jbed27 said:


> Since your space looks 100% light controlled, I would think the matte white is the best choice.


Thanks, was leaning that way but wasn't sure if DLPs still benefit from a grey screen for better blacks.


----------



## Dominic Chan

MMcDermott said:


> wasn't sure if DLPs still benefit from a grey screen for better blacks.


That is actually a "myth". A grey screen will reduce the contrast _degradation_ from ambient lights (both existing and reflected), but does _not_ improve the contrast of "black challenged" projectors.


----------



## DekPM19

Anybody have any feed back on the Silver ticket acoustical transparent screen. It has the same specs as the white screen.
Allen


----------



## Dominic Chan

DekPM19 said:


> Anybody have any feed back on the Silver ticket acoustical transparent screen. It has the same specs as the white screen.


See Post 559
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-19.html#post39992906


----------



## DekPM19

Thanks I am planing to be farther than that on a 120" screen so I think I would've good.


----------



## DekPM19

dlclark said:


> I have the AT 135" and am playing Elf as I'm typing. For me 10' seems to be the distracting cutoff. Under that, the texture is visible on nearly everything. Above 10' it's hardly noticeable to me except on bright scenes. I'm sitting at 12' now and can't detect the weave.
> 
> My kids have been playing video games and watching movies using games rockers and folding chairs until we finish the basement. They are set up at 10-11' based on their preference without direction from me.


How about the sound do you hear a difference with the screen and how far back or your speakers from the screen?
Allen


----------



## DekPM19

DekPM19 said:


> A few pictures of my frame going up. I have decided on the st AT screen the 120". I will paint everything black including the side wall on the right. Once I get my screen and get it mounted I plan on going back and doing some black fabric from Joanns fabric to give me a flat wall look.
> Allen



I thought I would post this here also'
Allen
Had to edit to add pictures they didn't copy over


----------



## Livin

DekPM19 said:


> I thought I would post this here also'
> Allen
> Had to edit to add pictures they didn't copy over


I'm going to do nearly the exact same thing but making a spandex screen with flat black wall. Would love to see how you mount the material an the finished wall

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


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## DekPM19

I am buying a screen they mount to the wall with 2 brackets then the screen just hangs on the brackets. I think there is something called a French cleat which you mount one piece on the wall and the other on the frame and they lock together.
Allen


----------



## Livin

DekPM19 said:


> I am buying a screen they mount to the wall with 2 brackets then the screen just hangs on the brackets. I think there is something called a French cleat which you mount one piece on the wall and the other on the frame and they lock together.
> Allen


My last post didn't come out clear.

Interested in how you install the blackout material around the screen and how it looks. Would love to see photos of the completely finished wall when you are done.

I'm considering making the screen mount about 1.25 inches back from the screen, it will look slightly inset.

This way I could build masking panels for the top and bottom that mount with strong magnets for when I'm watching a cinema scope movie.



Sent from my A1-840FHD using Tapatalk


----------



## DekPM19

Livin said:


> My last post didn't come out clear.
> 
> Interested in how you install the blackout material around the screen and how it looks. Would love to see photos of the completely finished wall when you are done.
> 
> I'm considering making the screen mount about 1.25 inches back from the screen, it will look slightly inset.
> 
> This way I could build masking panels for the top and bottom that mount with strong magnets for when I'm watching a cinema scope movie.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my A1-840FHD using Tapatalk


I understand I am going to paint everything black and then tack fabric from the ceiling to the floor and on the lower part of my frame under screen. This part may not happen for a few weeks because I am on vacation now but when I Go back to work next week the couple of weeks will be all work and no play. But when I get my screen up I will post and when get the fabric I will also post.
Thanks
Allen


----------



## HarpNinja

Pouring through all of this, I am hoping to get a ST screen soon. I am looking at 120 or 110". I have an Epson 3500 mounted 13' from the screen. Seating is about 15' from the screen. My ceiling is white, floor is pretty light in color, and the walls are a dark grey.

This room is a family room and play area for kids. I have good to great control of ambient lighting (and there are no windows), but would like to have some of the LED pars on so kids can play. I will be watching mostly sports during the day with ambient light from the pars, and then black everything out for movie nights.

I don't think I need a hardcore ALR, and a home consultant said I'd probably be fine with white, but wondering what others here think about going grey?

The pic attached shows the view against the grey, orange peel wall. So I know with dark grey it looks pretty good to begin with, lol.

I am trying to rewire the switches so the control halves of the room as of right now it is every other bank. So, ideally, the lights pictured would all be off and behind the couch would be on.


----------



## Dominic Chan

HarpNinja said:


> I don't think I need a hardcore ALR, and a home consultant said I'd probably be fine with white, but wondering what others here think about going grey?


If you plan to keep the ceiling white, and the projector has enough lumens, then you may want to go with grey.


----------



## dlclark

DekPM19 said:


> How about the sound do you hear a difference with the screen and how far back or your speakers from the screen?
> Allen


I'm not the best resource for an opinion on sound as I have some hearing loss and it's a budget system, under $2K. The speakers are Monoprice in-wall Kevlar speakers approximately 2" behind the screen. I didn't get a chance to test how the screen affected the sound and haven't run the MCACC on the receiver yet as it's still a work in progress. Since I painted the wall black, there is no blackout cloth behind the screen. I can tell you that I am very satisfied and family/friends/neighbors love it and are amazed at the sound with no visible speakers.


----------



## DekPM19

HarpNinja said:


> Pouring through all of this, I am hoping to get a ST screen soon. I am looking at 120 or 110". I have an Epson 3500 mounted 13' from the screen. Seating is about 15' from the screen. My ceiling is white, floor is pretty light in color, and the walls are a dark grey.
> 
> This room is a family room and play area for kids. I have good to great control of ambient lighting (and there are no windows), but would like to have some of the LED pars on so kids can play. I will be watching mostly sports during the day with ambient light from the pars, and then black everything out for movie nights.
> 
> I don't think I need a hardcore ALR, and a home consultant said I'd probably be fine with white, but wondering what others here think about going grey?
> 
> The pic attached shows the view against the grey, orange peel wall. So I know with dark grey it looks pretty good to begin with, lol.
> 
> I am trying to rewire the switches so the control halves of the room as of right now it is every other bank. So, ideally, the lights pictured would all be off and behind the couch would be on.





Dominic Chan said:


> If you plan to keep the ceiling white, and the projector has enough lumens, then you may want to go with grey.


I would agree the grey will be better for you. 
Allen


----------



## DekPM19

dlclark said:


> I'm not the best resource for an opinion on sound as I have some hearing loss and it's a budget system, under $2K. The speakers are Monoprice in-wall Kevlar speakers approximately 2" behind the screen. I didn't get a chance to test how the screen affected the sound and haven't run the MCACC on the receiver yet as it's still a work in progress. Since I painted the wall black, there is no blackout cloth behind the screen. I can tell you that I am very satisfied and family/friends/neighbors love it and are amazed at the sound with no visible speakers.


Thanks for the feed back
Allen


----------



## doubledgedboard

I haven't mounted it yet, but the white level difference when testing the grey screen material is fairly disappointing.

I will be able to calibrate the color, so I'm hoping that helps, but now I'm torn between better blacks and truer whites.


----------



## Dominic Chan

doubledgedboard said:


> I haven't mounted it yet, but the white level difference when testing the grey screen material is fairly disappointing.


What was the "white level difference"? The Silver Ticket Matte White screen has a bluish tint, raising the colour temperature by about 500K.


----------



## MJ DOOM

MMcDermott said:


> Hey all,
> 
> The theater half of our basement measures 20 1/2 ft L x 14 1/2 ft W x 6 1/2 ft H, couldn't get the better half to agree to black paint but compromised with a dark brown called molasses, projector is Benq W1070. We intend to go with a 135" Silver Ticket fixed screen, would you recommend the Matte White or the Grey (due to DLP)?
> 
> Thanks!


How is it with the projector screen that low?


----------



## MMcDermott

MJ DOOM said:


> How is it with the projector screen that low?


No issues at all, the couch we use for main seating is pretty well back (14-16') and no obstructions. Pretty much a floor to ceiling image & I love it. Still no screen yet but doesn't look horrible on the painted wall (seams in the walls are noticeable though).


----------



## doubledgedboard

Dominic Chan said:


> What was the "white level difference"? The Silver Ticket Matte White screen has a bluish tint, raising the colour temperature by about 500K.


I never had the white, I'm starting with the grey. I'm comparing it against the wall (which is white paint).


----------



## Fogyreef

While waiting for the Silver Ticket grey screen I actually taped up plain old printer paper to 120". I took my time and aligned the edges so there was maybe one discernable line. Worked ashamedly well. I went with the grey as we have skylights, so until I rig a blackout mechanism daytime viewing is challenged. I do feel the grey helped, but I was reading about their "silver material" that is their ambient light absorber. More accurately their ambient light reflector. 

Does anyone have any experience/feedback on the silver?

Fun side story:


Spoiler



My grandfather was an optical physicist working for the war department in WWII. The bombers were having a hard time of it at night as no matter how flat, non-reflective and dark they made the plane's exterior paint, they still silhouetted against the night sky in the search lights. Grandpa's idea: make the planes as shiny as possible. Shiny surfaces reflect light along the angle of incidence as opposed to scattering it; think shining a flashlight on a mirror; it's only bright when the beam is reflected directly at you. In the sky the bombers were still getting hit by the spotlights, but the reflected light was concentrated along the angle of incidence. The plane would only be visible for a moment as the reflection passed over the viewer. (He also invented the ultraviolet protection the astronauts first used on the visors that we use on our sunglasses today.)



The Silver Ticket's silver material screen reflects light in the same way. Speaking in general terms light from the skylights would mostly bounce into the floor. Ambient wall reflections would bounce past the viewer to the opposite wall. Only light originating near the viewer is reflected back to their eyes. Projector placement must be planned such that it reflects to the viewer, resulting in a brighter picture.

That's the jist. Read the literature and the reviews. As of today they are 4-6 weeks out from a restock. I'm buying just the screen material as I already have the frame. Swapping screen vinyl won't be hard at all, and cheap enough to experiment with.

Here's the grey in full light. Nothing like a cozy fire to warm the holidays.:laugh:


----------



## Dominic Chan

Fogyreef said:


> Does anyone have any experience/feedback on the silver?


I did a mini-review on the Silver Ticket ALR (Ambient Light Rejection) screen, complete with some comparison pictures
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-8.html#post34897441


----------



## Dominic Chan

doubledgedboard said:


> I never had the white, I'm starting with the grey. I'm comparing it against the wall (which is white paint).


My previous question was actually on the statement "white level difference" - are you saying that the white level is lower, or not pure white (tinted)?

A grey screen will look "dingy" when compared side-by-side with a white screen; it needs to be judged on its own, with the projector output boosted to compensate for the lower gain.


----------



## Dave in Green

Dominic Chan said:


> ... A grey screen will look "dingy" when compared side-by-side with a white screen; it needs to be judged on its own, with the projector output boosted to compensate for the lower gain.


This is a point that so many people miss. The grey screen will not look at all "dingy" compared with the white screen as long as the projector is appropriately adjusted for each. In a perfectly black room with no reflective surfaces there should be no difference in image when the projector is individually adjusted for the optimum image on each screen. Add even a little ambient/reflected light hitting the screen and the grey screen will have a slight advantage in maintaining contrast. Basically you are maintaining projector lumens reflected from the screen while reducing ambient light reflected from the screen.


----------



## mishari84

Dominic Chan said:


> My previous question was actually on the statement "white level difference" - are you saying that the white level is lower, or not pure white (tinted)?
> 
> A grey screen will look "dingy" when compared side-by-side with a white screen; it needs to be judged on its own, with the projector output boosted to compensate for the lower gain.


Hi
Do you recommend Silver ticket fixed frame screen or Silver ticket raw material?

I already bought the raw but it is still in the box


----------



## Dominic Chan

mishari84 said:


> Do you recommend Silver ticket fixed frame screen or Silver ticket raw material?


The main advantages of the raw material are:
- 1.3 gain compared with 0.95 gain of the stock ST matte white
- A white that's more neutral than the stock ST which has a bluish tint (about +500K)

The flip side is that the higher gain also results in a mild hot spot - the brightest part of the screen is about "30% brighter" than rest of the screen.

Some people say that the raw material has a smoother texture, but I never had any texture issues with the matte white anyway.

I would say that, if your projector has lumens to spare, go with the matte white.


----------



## muzz

I've had white screens and grey screens, and I disliked the whites on the grey screen in comparison to the whites on a white screen.
We had that discussion years ago regarding the adjustments. Grey without a white screen next to it looks fine, because there is nothing to compare it to.


----------



## mishari84

Update
I calibrated my Planar PD8150, it was way off. I stretched ST reference material to give it a fair test. It is okay, but for some reason my eyes always after short time viewing, could be too reflective as someone mentioned and more washed out picture than others. One I went back to Ebay material I felt comfortable again.

I also atached samples of Carl's flexiwhite, Elite Cinewhite and Elite Cinegrey 5D.
I gave them a lengthy test, here are my impressions:

Ebay material: excellent material,competes with Elite Cinewhite.

Flexiwhite:dimmer than other whites.

Elite Cinewhite: I think this the best unity gain screen, although it has mild bluish push in very whitish scenes.

Flexigray: very dim and dull.

Cinegrey 5D:

- No color shift, which means it very color neutral. and maintains color pop.
- Brighter a white material at the right setup ( angular setup).
- bright enough in non-ideal setup, but much better contrast and details than white material.
- Maintains contrast in a great deal in very lit room.
- No washout out in a darkroom with light walls, unlike white material, meaning maintains blacks and colors of the projector..
Downside: narrow viewing angle and shiny surface, I do not know how will this affect my comfort.


----------



## doubledgedboard

Has anyone else had any experiences with the ALR screen lately (I've read all previous thread material).

I'm in the same boat as Fogyreef, I'm going to pick up just the ALR screen material and try it vs the grey.


----------



## mishari84

doubledgedboard said:


> Has anyone else had any experiences with the ALR screen lately (I've read all previous thread material).
> 
> I'm in the same boat as Fogyreef, I'm going to pick up just the ALR screen material and try it vs the grey.


I think Carl's materials are better than ST materials, see this ALR from Carl's
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-screen-section/2242362-carl-s-ambient-light-rejecting.html


----------



## bpassman

*Break the thread up?*

Before we get hundreds of pages, can we break up the ST thread for the different types of material? Minimum break up AT from the ALR and Basic materials.


----------



## Dominic Chan

mishari84 said:


> Yesterday I mounted Silver Ticket reference raw material, I was very dissappointed.
> Here are my thoughts:
> - picture was washed out with loss of a lot of details
> - not sharp
> - colors were very dull
> - Hotspotting was annoying even after I put back the projector and sitting very far away.


I'm getting good results with mine (1.3 gain "raw material" replacing the stock 1.0 gain matte white). One thing to keep in mind is that all the Silver Ticket materials need to be stretched (in a way similar to their own frame) to be flat so that they can provide good image quality.

I have attached some picture taken of my screen. As mentioned in my previous post, I consider the hotspot to be detectable with white background, but not "objectionable" - see the checkboard pattern picture.


----------



## doubledgedboard

Dominic Chan said:


> I'm getting good results with mine (1.3 gain "raw material" replacing the stock 1.0 gain matte white). One thing to keep in mind is that all the Silver Ticket materials need to be stretched (in a way similar to their own frame) to be flat so that they can provide good image quality.
> 
> I have attached some picture taken of my screen. As mentioned in my previous post, I consider the hotspot to be detectable with white background, but not "objectionable" - see the checkboard pattern picture.


Which PJ are you using (or how bright do you have it outputting) and how far back is it?

I don't really see hotspotting at all in the pictures you posted, maybe it's more apparently in person. This gives me hope for the 1.5 ALR screen...


----------



## Shaddow

Did does anyone know if they plan to make the new 1.3 white available for people with frames? Maybe eventually?


----------



## Dominic Chan

doubledgedboard said:


> Which PJ are you using (or how bright do you have it outputting) and how far back is it?


Those pictures were with a JVC DLA-X30 projector at about 13' from the screen; the camera is at about 10' (viewing position). The screen size is about 92" diagonal (the 16:9 portion of my 115" 2.35:1 screen). Screen brightness is about 15 ftL.
I'm attaching some additional pictures in this post; these are with a Mitsubishi EW230U-ST ultra short throw projector placed at 40"(!) from the screen. Same picture size and camera position. The projector is very bright - about 40 ftL!



> I don't really see hotspotting at all in the pictures you posted, maybe it's more apparently in person.


I used the term "mild hotspotting" to describe what I see (in person and in the pictures). With the ceiling-mounted JVC, the upper middle part of the screen is slightly brighter than the rest. It's barely noticeable with white background. The Mitsubishi is table-mounted, so the "mild hotspot" is at the bottom middle.



> This gives me hope for the 1.5 ALR screen...


The 1.5 ALR is very different. The gain drops from about 1.5 at the "hotspot", to about 0.7 (less than 50%) at the bottom corner. In comparison, the 1.3 white drops from 1.3 to 1.
I have posted a review of the ST 1.5 ALR in this thread previously.


----------



## mishari84

Updated my test on ST reference white with some helpful comparisons in post #616 .


----------



## bommai

What's the best place to buy the screen from? Checking camelcamelcamel.com for the 150" white 16:9 screen, amazon had it for $399 last year (early) but has been $449 since. I live in Florida so amazon charges tax. If I buy from the vendor directly, there is no tax. Looking at their return policy, amazon has no restocking fee but the vendor does (15%). I hope the restocking fee does not apply to damaged products. Should I order from the vendor directly to save on the sales tax (6.5%) or stick with Amazon prime?


Edit - Amazon does not charge tax either - ordered from amazon.


----------



## milehighou

Is anyone noticing a difference between the matte gray and matte white material as far as screen visibility? I have the gray screen, and on very bright scenes, I'm able to see the actual screen. It's distracting because my eyes immediately focus on that, instead of the image. I'm thinking of exchanging it for the white.


----------



## Balinus

milehighou said:


> Is anyone noticing a difference between the matte gray and matte white material as far as screen visibility? I have the gray screen, and on very bright scenes, I'm able to see the actual screen. It's distracting because my eyes immediately focus on that, instead of the image. I'm thinking of exchanging it for the white.


I also see the screen texture with bright scene. I'm also annoyed but it's kind of less apparent as the weeks goes by. Perhaps a matter of stretching (?).

Edit - I have the matte grey screen.


----------



## milehighou

Balinus said:


> I also see the screen texture with bright scene. I'm also annoyed but it's kind of less apparent as the weeks goes by. Perhaps a matter of stretching (?).
> 
> Edit - I have the matte grey screen.


Thanks. I was using a white screen (different brand) before this, and it didn't seem quite as noticeable. Maybe it's just my imagination, though. Just got done watching a movie, and it was OK. Visible on a few parts if I really looked, but not a deal breaker. I still might switch back to white, though. The gray screen caused a lot of light loss, so I had to compensate by changing settings on the PJ.


----------



## DekPM19

I thought a post a picture of my 120" st AT screen room is still a mess 
Allen


----------



## Patriot666

No issues with my ST 92" grey screen. I recommend it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## milehighou

Going from a white screen (an Elite) to the ST gray, I noticed quite a bit of light dropoff. On the white screen, I could run my PJ in manual iris mode at a setting of 20 (out of 100), and I was hitting 18 ftL peak white. With the gray, I had to go to max iris size to get the same output. Still on the low lamp setting, but I prefer the extra headroom I have with a white screen.


----------



## milehighou

Syradil said:


> Not impressed with the 92" gray screen I got last week. Projected whites are quite sparkly/shimmery, to the point of distraction. Colors and darker images look good.
> 
> It might just be that my Epson 3500 is too darn bright even in Eco mode.


I know this is an older post, but I am going through the same thing with the 92" grey screen. The very bright parts of a scene have a sparkle and grainy look to them. Did you end up keeping the gray, or did you switch to white, and if so, was it better in this regard?


----------



## Dominic Chan

milehighou said:


> Is anyone noticing a difference between the matte gray and matte white material as far as screen visibility? I have the gray screen, and on very bright scenes, I'm able to see the actual screen. It's distracting because my eyes immediately focus on that, instead of the image. I'm thinking of exchanging it for the white.


The texture seems to be significantly different between "batches" of the matte white screen. My matte white looks significantly smoother than the picture on the Silver Ticket website.

If you don't mind doing some work yourself, their 1.3 gain raw material is ultra smooth, essentially no texture.


----------



## vater

Great thread. I'm in the planning stages of getting my HT room setup, and I've narrowed it down to the ST 110" and 120" screen on Amazon. Pretty sure I'll be going with the BenQ HT2050. I just saw this two star review on the 120" ST screen. Can anyone comment on it?

_"This screen has a muddy sparkle that no one talks about. I have built multiple black-out cloth screens over the years and I loved them. I moved and sold my then current screen (which I built my self) and I thought I would take the plunge and buy a "real" screen. The silver ticket was so highly recommended that I chose it over an Elite Screen Sable. It was easy enough to build and the velvet frame is great, but the part that matters the most to me is the actual screen material and it is horrible. It has a weird sparkle to it that makes it impossible to forget you are watching a projector, and there are "hot spots" galore. When a day scene comes on, it is hard not to get distracted with all the textures you are seeing, it near drove me crazy. The hardest part for me to understand is that there are so many great reviews on here, which I am guessing are because most people are buying this as there first screen and have nothing to compare it to, but maybe I am wrong so after about a year of the horrible picture from my expensive Sony vpl-hw40es I decided to contact silver ticket to see if maybe I got a defect. They treated me like I was just trying to get something for free from them and basically told me I was wrong. I might be wrong and maybe this product is great but the one I got is horrible. I recently replaced this with an Elite Screen Sable from here(amazon) and the picture is so much better! Deeper colors, better blacks and most importantly no sparkle or hot spots that drove me crazy. The Elite essentially disappears when you are watching it and with this screen you are constantly reminded that you are not watching a TV but a projector. I had to swallow the cost of this and ended up with a different screen, but honestly it was the best decision I ever made. I would highly recommend either the Elite screen or building your own screen over this. But I can not recommend this screen to anyone who might actually care about picture quality"_


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## bouf0010

vater said:


> Great thread. I'm in the planning stages of getting my HT room setup, and I've narrowed it down to the ST 110" and 120" screen on Amazon. Pretty sure I'll be going with the BenQ HT2050. I just saw this two star review on the 120" ST screen. Can anyone comment on it?
> 
> _"This screen has a muddy sparkle that no one talks about. I have built multiple black-out cloth screens over the years and I loved them. I moved and sold my then current screen (which I built my self) and I thought I would take the plunge and buy a "real" screen. The silver ticket was so highly recommended that I chose it over an Elite Screen Sable. It was easy enough to build and the velvet frame is great, but the part that matters the most to me is the actual screen material and it is horrible. It has a weird sparkle to it that makes it impossible to forget you are watching a projector, and there are "hot spots" galore. When a day scene comes on, it is hard not to get distracted with all the textures you are seeing, it near drove me crazy. The hardest part for me to understand is that there are so many great reviews on here, which I am guessing are because most people are buying this as there first screen and have nothing to compare it to, but maybe I am wrong so after about a year of the horrible picture from my expensive Sony vpl-hw40es I decided to contact silver ticket to see if maybe I got a defect. They treated me like I was just trying to get something for free from them and basically told me I was wrong. I might be wrong and maybe this product is great but the one I got is horrible. I recently replaced this with an Elite Screen Sable from here(amazon) and the picture is so much better! Deeper colors, better blacks and most importantly no sparkle or hot spots that drove me crazy. The Elite essentially disappears when you are watching it and with this screen you are constantly reminded that you are not watching a TV but a projector. I had to swallow the cost of this and ended up with a different screen, but honestly it was the best decision I ever made. I would highly recommend either the Elite screen or building your own screen over this. But I can not recommend this screen to anyone who might actually care about picture quality"_


its hit or miss on any of their materials - if you arent happy about the screen make sure to email them right away for a replacement material. If that doesnt fix it, return it. 

Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk


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## Dominic Chan

vater said:


> Great thread. I'm in the planning stages of getting my HT room setup, and I've narrowed it down to the ST 110" and 120" screen on Amazon. Pretty sure I'll be going with the BenQ HT2050. I just saw this two star review on the 120" ST screen. Can anyone comment on it?
> 
> _"This screen has a muddy sparkle that no one talks about._


I assume this is not referring to the matte white screen. Their ALR screen does have sparkles that can be an issue.
Do you have a link to the specific comment? I can't find it.


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## vater

Dominic Chan said:


> I assume this is not referring to the matte white screen. Their ALR screen does have sparkles that can be an issue.
> Do you have a link to the specific comment? I can't find it.


The comment was posted a few days ago: http://www.amazon.com/STR-169120-Si...8&showViewpoints=1&sortBy=recent&pageNumber=1

^^ This is the matte white screen isn't it?


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## Balinus

Balinus said:


> I also see the screen texture with bright scene. I'm also annoyed but it's kind of less apparent as the weeks goes by. Perhaps a matter of stretching (?).
> 
> Edit - I have the matte grey screen.


I watched Bourne Identity last night, in a dark setting (no lights). I usually watch with some lights on and hence I put the contrast on my PJ higher than I wpuld have done for dark room. Anyway, yesterday I needed to lower the contrast on my PJ and I didn't see any texture while watching the movie. 

I wonder if screen texture is just a matter of too high contrast on a PJ (?).


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## buzter

I am looking at getting our first Home Theater set up and I can use a max of 110" Acoustic screen (center channel behind)...seating distance about 10'...trying to decide between

Jamestown
http://www.jamestownhometheaterscreen.com/index.php/acoustic-home-theater-screen/

or 

Silver Ticket
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PUQPKEK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3JJZ6SEDOZAMT&coliid=I1NH68K96BEME

Thoughts anyone?


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## buzter

I am looking at getting our first Home Theater set up and I can use a max of 110" Acoustic screen (center channel behind)...seating distance about 10'...trying to decide between

Jamestown
http://www.jamestownhometheaterscreen.com/index.php/acoustic-home-theater-screen/

or 

Silver Ticket
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PUQPKEK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3JJZ6SEDOZAMT&coliid=I1NH68K96BEME

Thoughts anyone?


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## Syradil

milehighou said:


> I know this is an older post, but I am going through the same thing with the 92" grey screen. The very bright parts of a scene have a sparkle and grainy look to them. Did you end up keeping the gray, or did you switch to white, and if so, was it better in this regard?



I kept the gray screen and honestly I've just gotten used to it over time. It should get better as my projector dims with age, I can't judge the screen too harshly because I know I'm forcing a light cannon of a projector into an unoptimal size for its brightness.


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## hibeta

Got the Silver Ticket 138" curved frame 2:35:1 w/acoustic screen and have been thrilled with it over the past year now. Excellent screen for Sony HW40ES at a very good price. Frame is very well made and have had no issues with screen. Sitting about 13' from the screen and no visible artifacts. Don't see a need to go to a theater any more!


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## bpassman

hibeta said:


> Got the Silver Ticket 138" curved frame 2:35:1 w/acoustic screen and have been thrilled with it over the past year now. Excellent screen for Sony HW40ES at a very good price. Frame is very well made and have had no issues with screen. Sitting about 13' from the screen and no visible artifacts. Don't see a need to go to a theater any more!


Are you using a A lens with the curved screen? If not, how much pin cushion do you see?

Love to see a pic or two. I'm trying to decide on another DIY or the 158" AT Silver Ticket and some feedback on the curved would be awesome!


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## hibeta

Yes, have a Panamorph lens (see picture). Room is 20x20 with 10 foot ceiling. Projector is mounted on top of a cabinet on the back wall of the room. Pictures attached. Looking for some storage benches to put on wall underneath the screen to block out the electrical outlets and provide for some storage space. Screen is approximately 12 feet long so will need a couple or more benches.


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## HarpNinja

I received and began to set up my screen...got the whole thing done and realized two brackets were upside down. I am so upset with myself! I see two ways to fix this:

1. Remove the tension rod, clips, and disassemble one side of the frame to flip them over

or

2. Leave the rod, undo clips on opposite sides, and disassemble one side...

The second, in theory, is easier/faster...but which is safest?

Thanks!


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## bouf0010

HarpNinja said:


> I received and began to set up my screen...got the whole thing done and realized two brackets were upside down. I am so upset with myself! I see two ways to fix this:
> 
> 1. Remove the tension rod, clips, and disassemble one side of the frame to flip them over
> 
> or
> 
> 2. Leave the rod, undo clips on opposite sides, and disassemble one side...
> 
> The second, in theory, is easier/faster...but which is safest?
> 
> Thanks!


i did the same thing - i just left it and hung the screen up using only the top 2 brackets. I used screws with larger heads to ensure there was enough overlap so the screen wouldnt fall down. Its been hanging for month with no issues.

Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk


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## Dominic Chan

bouf0010 said:


> i did the same thing - i just left it and hung the screen up using only the top 2 brackets.


Yes, 2 brackets should be sufficient for the Silver Ticket screens, unless the upside-down ones are the ones on the _top_ rail.:grin:


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## JackB

My 106 ST just shipped. Have they made the center crossbar install any easier?


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## RafaelSmith

JackB said:


> My 106 ST just shipped. Have they made the center crossbar install any easier?


My 135 SilverTicket showed up today..........guess ill find out how easy or not the center crossbar is when I get home =P


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## Dominic Chan

JackB said:


> My 106 ST just shipped. Have they made the center crossbar install any easier?


It's really not that difficult. You just have to slide it in at an angle, and use a hammer or mallet to straighten it, as shown in their installation video.


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## bgeery

I didn't need a hammer.

Simply inserted the bar into the frame slot at an angle, then using my hands to pull on the frame (spreading it) while using my thumbs to push the bar. This releases the tension and allows you to scoot the bar over with your thumbs at the same time. Getting the bar centered right on the seam in the frame takes a few extra second,s as the bar can catch on the seam and takes some wiggling to get it past.

Hard to describe, easy to do.


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## Patriot666

I had to use a mallet with mine. Real PITA.


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## doubledgedboard

After all the horror stories of people having to use mallets, and ending up scratching the material etc, I was super concerned about the tension bar installation.

Maybe I got lucky, or it was due to size (120"), but the process went smooth for me... 

I think the trick is to use two people. My helper pulled the opposing side outward and I slid the bar into place, and then he released the tension on his side and the bar was in place.

No scratches or anything!


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## JackB

My ST arrived so I unpacked the instructions and read them. Many comments on this thread have said they stink and were not helpful. They seem pretty straight forward to me and I'm wondering if I'm missing something here. Perhaps they have redone them because of the complaints. This thread is over two years old actually. Any thoughts?


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## Patriot666

I thought the instructions were adequate. No complaints.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jeff0514

Hello all. I am in the middle of a basement remodel. I will be installing Monoprice in-wall left, right, and center channel speakers and using a BenQ W1070 projector. Based on the size of the wall I will be projecting onto, I figured I could only do a 92" Silver Ticket screen to fit between the in-wall speakers. However, now I am wondering if I could go with a larger acoustically transparent Silver Ticket screen to place over the in-wall speakers. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Can AT screens be placed over in-wall speakers? I assumed so. Will I lose much picture quality with the AT screen versus the regular matte white screen? Thanks!


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## prophcy0

jeff0514 said:


> Hello all. I am in the middle of a basement remodel. I will be installing Monoprice in-wall left, right, and center channel speakers and using a BenQ W1070 projector. Based on the size of the wall I will be projecting onto, I figured I could only do a 92" Silver Ticket screen to fit between the in-wall speakers. However, now I am wondering if I could go with a larger acoustically transparent Silver Ticket screen to place over the in-wall speakers. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Can AT screens be placed over in-wall speakers? I assumed so. Will I lose much picture quality with the AT screen versus the regular matte white screen? Thanks!


An AT screen should work just fine over in-wall speakers. I haven't tried out a non-AT screen, but I am VERY impressed with the quality of my 120" Silver Ticket AT screen. I am sitting roughly 12' away from the screen and really do not notice the perforations. The only slight "issue" is I can sometimes see where the projected image hits the wall behind the screen, but this is only when there are logos / credits on a completely black screen.


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## Dominic Chan

prophcy0 said:


> The only slight "issue" is I can sometimes see where the projected image hits the wall behind the screen, but this is only when there are logos / credits on a completely black screen.


Is that with or without the black backing behind the screen?


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## prophcy0

Dominic Chan said:


> Is that with or without the black backing behind the screen?


With the black backing. The walls behind the screen wall are painted black as well. I'm sure I could add some velvet or something similar to the back wall to fully absorb the light but it hasn't bothered me enough to justify the effort yet.


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## prophcy0

prophcy0 said:


> With the black backing. The walls behind the screen wall are painted black as well. I'm sure I could add some velvet or something similar to the back wall to fully absorb the light but it hasn't bothered me enough to justify the effort yet.


Correction! I checked this weekend and the black backing had fallen down. I used velcro to attach it and the velcro did not stick to the material very well. I went ahead and re-attached it using a staple gun and now I don't see any kind of reflection off of the back wall.


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## lorjam

Received my Silver Ticket 142" with both ends heavily re-taped. Upon opening the box and checking the contents I found that the hardware was missing. I contacted David at Silver Ticket and he had the missing parts sent overnight. Outstanding service.


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## doubledgedboard

The 120" ALR material finally came into stock. Mine should be shipping this week.

I'm excited to see the difference from the grey screen.

I also second that ST support is phenomenal. I contacted them to buy the ALR screen material, and they ended up discounting the price so that it's like I had bought the ALR screen in the first place. I actually have a minor issue with my current grey screen, but I didn't even mention it and they still gave me a discount. I love these guys.


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## Cyberathlete

How does the Silver Ticket 106" Diagonal 16:9 4K Ultra HD Ready HDTV (6 Piece Fixed Frame) Projector Screen White Material compare to Carada Brilliant White? to be used with Epson 5030UB
Throw distance 134" (11.2')

I really wish they made a 104" screen like Carada. 100" would be an ok size upgrade and 106" would literally be at the uncomfortable maximum dimensions of trying to squeeze it in to work in the wall space. 104" would be guaranteed to comfortably fit and work with the projector throw distance.


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## Dominic Chan

Cyberathlete said:


> I really wish they made a 104" screen like Carada. 100" would be an ok size upgrade and 106" would literally be at the uncomfortable maximum dimensions of trying to squeeze it in to work in the wall space.


When working with tight spaces, you need to take into consideration the frame width. For example, the Silver Ticket frames are narrower than the Carada Criterion frames - 2-3/8" vs 3-1/4". That means for the same screen size, the width and height will be 1-3/4" shorter. Thus the 106" Silver Ticket has almost the same overall width as the 104" Carada Criterion - only 1/4" wider. On the other hand, the Carada Precision frame is 2" wide, narrower than the Silver Ticket.


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## Cyberathlete

Dominic Chan said:


> When working with tight spaces, you need to take into consideration the frame width. For example, the Silver Ticket frames are narrower than the Carada Criterion frames - 2-3/8" vs 3-1/4". That means for the same screen size, the width and height will be 1-3/4" shorter. Thus the 106" Silver Ticket has almost the same overall width as the 104" Carada Criterion - only 1/4" wider. On the other hand, the Carada Precision frame is 2" wide, narrower than the Silver Ticket.


I understand, but I am referring to the viewing area. The absolute maximum where I can still have my projector cast an image is 52" high and 98" wide however that would mean the hanging bracket has to be installed in the absolute perfect position. And given that it's a cement wall, there is no room for errors. A 104" screen eases up on the restriction.


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## JackB

I received and installed my STR-169106 106" screen recently. It is 1.1 gain in what they may call matte white. The assembly was fun and the screen hung on the wall easily. It's neat how the stretched screen gives a much cleaner look to the picture compared to my pull down Day-Lite HP screen because of the waves the HP had. However, I have one issue. The picture is slightly flatter than that of the HP. That is, there is no pop to the picture. I realize the ST is 1.1 gain while the HP is 2.8 but in actuality they are very similar as my projector is ceiling mounted, a no-no with the HP as it is retro-reflective. This means that it reflects back to the light source; that is up to the ceiling rather than down to your eyes. I assume the ST is reflective which would explain the similarity in brightness between the two. 

My question is this. Does ST make a screen with more POP and what do they charge for the material only? Any suggestions would be appreciated.


----------



## Dominic Chan

JackB said:


> The picture is slightly flatter than that of the HP. That is, there is no pop to the picture. I realize the ST is 1.1 gain while the HP is 2.8 but in actuality they are very similar as my projector is ceiling mounted, a no-no with the HP as it is retro-reflective.


"Lack of pop" could be due to lower luminance, or lower contrast. If your room does not have good light control (including reflected light from ceiling and walls), a matte white will indeed have less pop.



> This means that it reflects back to the light source; that is up to the ceiling rather than down to your eyes. I assume the ST is reflective which would explain the similarity in brightness between the two.


Matte white screens are neither retro- nor angular-reflective. They approximate a "lambertian" surface which reflects light in all directions.



> My question is this. Does ST make a screen with more POP and what do they charge for the material only? Any suggestions would be appreciated.


They do make a 1.5 gain "silver" ALR screen but some people have found the texture distracting. You can get the material without the frame - just contact them by email for a quote.
Here's a "mini-review" on the ST ALR:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-8.html#post34897441


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## JackB

Dominic Chan said:


> "Lack of pop" could be due to lower luminance, or lower contrast. If your room does not have good light control (including reflected light from ceiling and walls), a matte white will indeed have less pop.
> 
> 
> Matte white screens are neither retro- nor angular-reflective. They approximate a "lambertian" surface which reflects light in all directions.
> 
> 
> They do make a 1.5 gain "silver" ALR screen but some people have found the texture distracting. You can get the material without the frame - just contact them by email for a quote.
> Here's a "mini-review" on the ST ALR:
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-8.html#post34897441


Thanks for the link. I do have a light controlled room but the walls and ceilings are cream colored and my wife likes to read when she is in the room. So, the silver screen may work better. I'll see if they will send me a sample.


----------



## Dominic Chan

JackB said:


> Thanks for the link. I do have a light controlled room but the walls and ceilings are cream colored and my wife likes to read when she is in the room. So, the silver screen may work better. I'll see if they will send me a sample.


AFAIK, they don't send samples.


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## PaulG

OK,

For Silver Ticket owners.....Do you have any regrets about your purchase?

I'm pretty seriously considering one of these after reading up here. Hard to beat the performance/value/$ ratio.

I've got a G1 Stewart Firehawk 110" and when I replaced my projector to a new Sony 55ES, I'm getting hot spots and screen texture issues. The room is fully light controlled and the Sony is just throwing too much light at it (yes, I've tried playing with brightness, but there are trade offs there too).

Anyway, I could replace the Stewart material with something of theirs for hundreds and hundreds of dollars....or buy a Silver Ticket for just over $200. I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on the ST and leaving replacing the Stewart screen material as a fallback in case the ST doesn't suit my tastes.

Thoughts?


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## Dominic Chan

PaulG said:


> I've got a G1 Stewart Firehawk 110" and when I replaced my projector to a new Sony 55ES, I'm getting hot spots and screen texture issues. The room is fully light controlled and the Sony is just throwing too much light at it (yes, I've tried playing with brightness, but there are trade offs there too).


A matte white screen won't give the same contrast as the Firehawk, unless your room is 100% light controlled (including no reflections from wall and ceiling).

Having said that, I can find no fault with the Silver Ticket Matte White screen, other than a slight bluish tint that gets tuned out during calibration.


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## PaulG

Dominic Chan said:


> A matte white screen won't give the same contrast as the Firehawk, unless your room is 100% light controlled (including no reflections from wall and ceiling).
> 
> Having said that, I can find no fault with the Silver Ticket Matte White screen, other than a slight bluish tint that gets tuned out during calibration.


Thanks for the feedback!!
I have full light control (no ambient). Front wall and ceiling are black. Side walls and floor are not bright, but also not fully dark. (pic attached).
Should I be considering a grey screen with these conditions or would white be ok?

Suggestions on how to tone down the blue?

thanks!


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## Dominic Chan

PaulG said:


> I have full light control (no ambient). Front wall and ceiling are black. Side walls and floor are not bright, but also not fully dark. (pic attached).


Front wall is not an issue, as no light should hit it outside the screen area.
If you display a bright scene on the projector screen and look back to the room from the screen position, you will see the problem areas where significant light is being reflected back to the screen.



> Should I be considering a grey screen with these conditions or would white be ok?


 Light grey screens will make a _minor_ improvement. However, some users reported that they some texture on the Silver Ticket grey screen.



> Suggestions on how to tone down the blue?


The blue tint is very minor and negligible if you don't calibrate your projector. If you do calibrate your projector, the blue tint will be automatically calibrated out if you read the grey scale off the screen.


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## PaulG

Thank you!



Dominic Chan said:


> Light grey screens will make a _minor_ improvement. However, some users reported that they some texture on the Silver Ticket grey screen..


OK, I think I have my answer....matte it is. Its the texture problem I've got with my current Stewart screen that I'm trying to address with a new screen, so I'll skip over the Silver Ticket grey screen for that reason alone - especially if the improvement is only minor. THANKS!


----------



## jrt13

is the silver ticket screen transparent?


----------



## PaulG

Follow - up - I pulled the trigger on a Silver Ticket 120" Matte White fixed screen.
It delivers tomorrow, goes in over the weekend.
Thoughts later.


----------



## Dominic Chan

jrt13 said:


> is the silver ticket screen transparent?


They do have Acoustically Transparent screens.


----------



## PaulG

Ok - 120" 16:9 matte white screen arrived today and I got it assembled. 
Easy enough to do with the instructions and videos. I'm seeing small/minor ripples in the screen. In multiple spots on the screen. 

It's been 13 years since I last set up a new screen. Is this normal and do the ripples stretch out in time? If yes, how long will it take to stretch out? I want to be sure my screen is good before I mount it to the front wall. Thanks! I'll see if I can get a pic or two posted.


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## PaulG

Pics


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## JackB

PaulG said:


> Pics


My 106" has absolutely no ripples. I don't know if the additional size would make a difference but I would recheck your install process.


----------



## bgeery

PaulG said:


> Ok - 120" 16:9 matte white screen arrived today and I got it assembled.
> Easy enough to do with the instructions and videos. I'm seeing small/minor ripples in the screen. In multiple spots on the screen.


IMO, I would remove the screen material and re-position the clips and reattach the material. Make sure you are evenly attaching the material. Top, bottom, left, right, from center to corners. Take care that the screen material is evenly centered in the frame as you start attaching it.


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## PaulG

bgeery said:


> IMO, I would remove the screen material and re-position the clips and reattach the material. Make sure you are evenly attaching the material. Top, bottom, left, right, from center to corners. Take care that the screen material is evenly centered in the frame as you start attaching it.



That's exactly how we put it together, but will try again tonight. The ripples are No better this morning. Interesting - I noticed they all run horizontally. Some seem to be part of the material itself. I've got an email into ST. Will post a couple more pics here also.


----------



## PaulG

2 more


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## Dominic Chan

PaulG said:


> That's exactly how we put it together, but will try again tonight. The ripples are No better this morning. Interesting - I noticed they all run horizontally. Some seem to be part of the material itself.


If you get horizontal ripples across the entire width, then it's possible to material has the wrong dimension. I seem to remember people reporting that in the past with cetain batches. You should feel a fair amount of resistance when stretching the material. If not, that would confirm that dimension may be wrong.


----------



## PaulG

Dominic Chan said:


> If you get horizontal ripples across the entire width, then it's possible to material has the wrong dimension. I seem to remember people reporting that in the past with cetain batches. You should feel a fair amount of resistance when stretching the material. If not, that would confirm that dimension may be wrong.


Interesting to know. There was some tension installing the screen, not sure I'd call it a "good amount"....was more tension on the sides than top/bottom. It really appears like it hasn't been fully stretched out vertically (hence the horizontal ripples). I flipped the screen over this morning to see if the ripples are evident on both sides. They are, but are pretty hard to see in the pics. I did take the two pics below, however, to demonstrate that (I think) the screen is properly mounted (pegs lined up to arrows, etc.). I even double-checked the center tension bar to be sure I had that in correctly (I did...although it went in much easier than I was expecting based on what I saw in the videos). I expect a fully smooth surface - like a brad new snare drum head. Will advise what ST thinks when I hear back from them.


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## PaulG

Heard from ST this morning before 9AM. Impressive. They don't seem concerned by my pics, they said wrinkles like mine are typical after unpacking, and they take 1-2 days to stretch out...screen should be perfectly smooth within a week. I sent a few more pics back to them, but I'm gonna cool my jets, be patient and chill. I'll move ahead and mount the screen tonight and we'll see what happens over the weekend, I'm cautiously optimistic, but there's a whole lot of stretching yet to happen.


----------



## JackB

PaulG said:


> Heard from ST this morning before 9AM. Impressive. They don't seem concerned by my pics, they said wrinkles like mine are typical after unpacking, and they take 1-2 days to stretch out...screen should be perfectly smooth within a week. I sent a few more pics back to them, but I'm gonna cool my jets, be patient and chill. I'll move ahead and mount the screen tonight and we'll see what happens over the weekend, I'm cautiously optimistic, but there's a whole lot of stretching yet to happen.


Mine was smooth from the minute I installed the cross bar. Your pics show the bar end overlapping the two horizontal frame parts. I don't remember that overlap in mine although my memory is not good. Getting the bar in has been very difficult for most and does add additional tension, perhaps enough to remove your wrinkles if mounted exactly right.


----------



## PaulG

I think I'm good, but absolutely worth checking the bar again. I'd love to find I got the cross bar wrong, because it could unlock the whole problem. I did find putting the bar in far easier than I expected from the videos and posts here. 

My screen and install photo from ST BELOW.


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## PaulG

It's up and looking good. Cross bar was fine all along. Solved the wrinkle problem - very patient use of a hair dryer. Took about 45 min. But it's nice and smooth now. Need to dial in the projector now, but that's for tomorrow.


----------



## Cyberathlete

Any one who has gone from Carada Brilliant White to this screen? I want to go from 92" to 106" but not sure if I should stick with Carada BW or get this? I am so close on pulling the trigger.

Projector: Epson 5030UB
Room is completely pitch black. No windows. No lights. Side walls and projector screen wall are matte black. Ceiling has patches of black.

*Thoughts on Carada Brilliant White (1.4 gain):*
Great pop in color
Bright image
So-so blacks. Blacks look greyish
Phenomenal viewing angle (not a hint of picture change from any seat in the house)



PS: what's the return policy on this screen?

Thanks!


----------



## Dominic Chan

Cyberathlete said:


> So-so blacks. Blacks look greyish
> Phenomenal viewing angle (not a hint of picture change from any seat in the house)


It's unlikely that the Carada BW screen would make your black look greyish. It's more likely the reflections from the room. Try looking "back" into the room from the sreen and see if you can identify any reflection.
The Silver Ticket screen is good for the price, but will not provide blacker blacks.


----------



## doubledgedboard

So my replacement 120" ALR material came today. I haven't installed it yet, but I unrolled a bit to compare it against the currently mounted grey screen.

...wow... very apparent texture. I can immediately tell why people might not like the texture. It also looked extremely grey and dim to me, almost like it was not really any brighter than the grey?

...then I managed to catch it at the right 'angle', holy cow, it pops with light and brightness! However, I do immediately (when like, 2 feet from the material) see how it 'sparkles'.

My plan is to mount the silver and try it out for about a month. If I absolutely cannot get over the texture and sparkling, I will probably order a white screen. Then I'll have tried all three of their SKUs... 


The grey isn't that bad, either, I just don't like that it's so dim (I have to leave bulb on full to really keep the colors going in my partially-light-controlled environment). I also don't like the lower white point. I wanted to try the ALR to compare, but my grey also has a bit of banding in the middle (I think I need to try the hairdryer trick...), so I might as well swap it out and try something else in case I need to send back the grey.

I'll post photos once I get it installed, mounted, and let it stretch out for a couple days.


----------



## Dominic Chan

doubledgedboard said:


> I can The grey isn't that bad, either, I just don't like that it's so dim (I have to leave bulb on full to really keep the colors going in my partially-light-controlled environment). I also don't like the lower white point.


Have you noticed any visible texture with the grey screen, close up?


----------



## doubledgedboard

Dominic Chan said:


> Have you noticed any visible texture with the grey screen, close up?


Not really. I notice the pixel grid more than any screen texture.

The exception to that is the 'issue' with my grey screen. The very center of it has some horizontal banding, visible under bright scenes, extending maybe 6" tall and about 2 feet wide. I think it's probably due to the very center of the screen being slightly slack?

From a distance I have once in a great while seen a tiny bit of sparkling-ish texture in bright scenes, but it's nothing like the immediately apparent 'crystalline sparkle' effect of the ALR.


----------



## doubledgedboard

So, I put in the 120" silver ALR, and it's definitely unpalatable. The light rejection and brightness is definitely superb, but the texture and hotspotting, as everyone else has mentioned, is terrible.

The upside, I guess? is that mine came damaged. There's 2 fairly significant gashes on the front that mean I'll need to return it, so maybe I can exchange it for the matte white and try that.

The other upside is that when I changed the grey out, I noticed the center bar had come somewhat misaligned with the grey, so perhaps that's why the center of my screen had some banding.


----------



## Cyberathlete

So I received my Silver Ticket Cinewhite yesterday. Taped up a bit of it against the Carada Brilliant White to compare. I will take some pictures tonight to showcase the difference. I did adjust the projector to shift one setting towards a warmer color. I had it set to Cool 1 for the Carada previously.

The ST has a glossy surface vs Carada which is semi-gloss IMO.
When compared under LED light, the ST is pure white surface where as the Carada has a touch of off-white in it. I believe this is the reason why there is a bluish tint on the ST. A pure white glossy surface in light will create that, and the Carada has an off-white color to combat it and also produce a slightly warmer image. And thus why I had originally set the projector to produce a slightly cooler image (cool setting 1) on the Epson 5030UB. I didn't realize the Carada's true screen color until I compared it to the ST side by side.

Picture is comparable but Carada has the edge, very slightly. For the most part both are neck and neck and Carada has a little more subtle pop in colors, that is due to the fact that it's also a 1.4 vs 1.1 screen. So the extra gain does make for an ever so slightly brighter picture but if you were not comparing them side by side, you'd be hard pressed to find a difference. 

The blue tint is there in bright white/yellow background scenes. This was very apparent in the scene in Monsters Inc where one of the monsters has a sock attached to him and the Quarantine unit is breaking through the glass. The background is sunlit and you will notice on the Carada the sunlight is pure light yellow/orange but on the ST it has a slight bluish tint and the overall sunlight color leans a bit towards white.

I haven't installed the ST screen yet and won't get to until next week or weekend. However for $200 is an excellent bargain. Now whether the colors are true, I am not sure. I have to test a couple of different movies.

Any suggestions for which movies to use for color tests? I lean towards animated since they tend to have flawless image quality. Avatar is also another with a sharp image IMO and nice use of colors.

Thanks!


----------



## Balinus

Cyberathlete said:


> Any suggestions for which movies to use for color tests? I lean towards animated since they tend to have flawless image quality. Avatar is also another with a sharp image IMO and nice use of colors.
> 
> Thanks!


I'd try "The Book of Life" : http://www.imdb.com/title/tt2262227/?ref_=nv_sr_1

Lots of colors!


----------



## Cyberathlete

Balinus said:


> I'd try "The Book of Life" : http://www.imdb.com/title/tt2262227/?ref_=nv_sr_1
> 
> Lots of colors!


Thanks! I have that, in 3D too. Great!


----------



## HoosierFan

I am looking at various screens at 138" Diagonal. I noticed that the Silver Ticket and Elite AcoustiPro have different dimensions for the same size screen.

The Elite says viewing height x width is 54 x 126.9
Silver Ticket has 55.6 x 130.7

Both are 2.35 to 1, but by my calculations the Silver Ticket is actually 142" diagonal.

Is this right?


----------



## HoosierFan

HoosierFan said:


> I am looking at various screens at 138" Diagonal. I noticed that the Silver Ticket and Elite AcoustiPro have different dimensions for the same size screen.
> 
> The Elite says viewing height x width is 54 x 126.9
> Silver Ticket has 55.6 x 130.7
> 
> Both are 2.35 to 1, but by my calculations the Silver Ticket is actually 142" diagonal.
> 
> Is this right?


In case anyone is interested, apparently Silver Ticket is phasing out the 138" product and is shipping the new screens, which are actually 142" diagonals.


----------



## doubledgedboard

Silver Ticket continues to offer incredible customer support. After I received the damaged ALR screen, I contacted them and asked if I could RMA it and swap it for the matte white (since the ALR really didn't work well for me). Not only are they sending me the matte white... they refunded the entire cost of the ALR screen, and don't want me to send it back either.

Basically they're giving me a free matte white screen for my troubles. Hopefully it's not damaged  but damn, I'm impressed.

I'm going to be trying out the matte white to see how it performs in ambient light compared to the grey. I expect it to wash out a bit more, but I'd like to see if I prefer the higher white levels.


----------



## Cyberathlete

Got my 106" screen setup. Quite a step up from 92" especially since the viewing distance is still the same. 

Summary: I'll still give Carada the edge in terms of color, pop and accuracy but for the money this screen is of extreme value. And I mean absolutely tremendous value. I find it hard to believe sometimes I am looking at a screen that only cost me $210, shipped.

And part of the reason is that the amount of money you would lose on a resale for more expensive screens is more than what this screen costs to buy. So if I were to resell the Carada, I am prob going to lose $200 on it and that's the price of this screen itself.

Any way, my thoughts below:
I am going to revise the Pop score and break it down (all are vs the Carada BW):

*3D Animated:* 9/10
*HTPC:* 7/10 (on the Carada the desktop jumped at you with pristinity and color. It looks flat with this screen)
*Animated Movies:* 8.5/10
*Reg Movies:* 7.5/10
*Reg 3D: *7.5/10










Forgot to add one thing:
Ambient Light Performance:
Carada: 7//10 (given this is not a ALR screen, it still holds up fairly well if a faint amount of light falls on the screen)
Silver Ticket: 4/10 (the slightest hint of light falling on the screen completely degrades the image)


----------



## doubledgedboard

My 120" matte white came in today - I already swapped the grey out for it.

It wasn't damaged either, thankfully 

Holy cow it's SO much brighter than the grey. I calibrated it in some ambient light, and I'll need to calibrate again when it's fully dark. It does feel more 'washed out', but it also feels less 'dingy'.

The colors seem more vivid and rich. The contrast is still excellent. While in some ambient light the blacks do appear 'whiter' than with the grey screen, the contrast between pure-white and the darkest black is still just as evident as with the grey screen. I already think I prefer the colors of the white.

I'll update again once I've had a chance to watch it in the dark and to do a new 3DLUT for madVR.

On another topic, if anyone is interested in a 120" ALR screen material with a couple scratches, I'll give it to you for the cost of shipping, PM me. Thanks again to Silver Ticket for the insanely good customer service!


----------



## DLCPhoto

*White vs Gray, less than ideal room, Day vs Night*

I have a room 20'x32', with about 12 foot vaulted ceiling which is white, medium brown painted walls, a number of windows and glass doors which will get room darkening cellular shades. The Projector will be the JVC DLA-RS400U. Throw distance 15' 6", projector hung from a beam which bridges the vaulted ceiling. Screen will be the Silver Ticket 138" 2.35:1 fixed mount. Lens memory and zoom will handle the transition between 2.35:1 and 16:9 content.

My question is which material will be best for me: White (Gain 1.1, apparently measured at 0.95) vs Gray (Gain 1.0 claimed; haven't seen actual measurements).

During the day, the room will have enough ambient light, most likely, as it isn't very tightly light controlled, that the Gray would probably provide superior contrast and overall image quality.

But my question is which would be preferred in the evenings, when daylight is no longer an issue?

Since we can't have everything (where would we put it, if we could?? , apologies to Steven Wright), and something needs to be sacrificed, I would choose in favor of maximizing the picture quality at night, when I would be doing more serious movie watching. That would likely reduce picture quality during the day, but as I said, if I had to choose to make the best of one situation, it would be the nighttime viewing.

I also understand that a light controlled room is more than just having no daylight; it's a matter of paint color, reflective surfaces, etc. With that in mind, is it likely that the White screen would still yield better performance for me at night? If so, I'll go with the White. But if they're equal at night, and the Gray is superior during the day, then it makes sense to go with the Gray.

Thoughts, especially from those who have had experience with both the ST White and Gray, under less than ideal room conditions, appreciated!


----------



## doubledgedboard

DLCPhoto said:


> But my question is which would be preferred in the evenings, when daylight is no longer an issue?
> 
> Thoughts, especially from those who have had experience with both the ST White and Gray, under less than ideal room conditions, appreciated!


I'm in your situation and just went through Grey -> ALR -> White.

IMO, Go with the White.

The grey is nice and does 'tone down' the screen's apparent washout during the day, however it does that at the expense of light output and maximum white level.

With the grey I had to keep my hw55es's lamp power on high at all times, whereas with the white I can run it at low during the night and high during the day if I need to combat the ambient brightness. The white doesn't reduce the output nearly as much.

In addition, I've found that the perceived contrast between the darkest black and the whitest white is the same whether I'm on the white or the grey screen. The only real difference is the apparent black level. 

I've already found that I prefer a perceived brighter white than a darker black. When I first got my PJ I was projecting it onto my white wall, and when I installed the grey screen it took me a while to get used to the lower white level. I really like having it back with the matte white.

The white gives a bit more of a 'glow' feeling to the screen, which I also like (something the ALR did but with the side effect of visual noise and hotspotting).


----------



## DLCPhoto

doubledgedboard said:


> I'm in your situation and just went through Grey -> ALR -> White.
> 
> IMO, Go with the White.
> 
> The grey is nice and does 'tone down' the screen's apparent washout during the day, however it does that at the expense of light output and maximum white level.
> 
> With the grey I had to keep my hw55es's lamp power on high at all times, whereas with the white I can run it at low during the night and high during the day if I need to combat the ambient brightness. The white doesn't reduce the output nearly as much.
> 
> In addition, I've found that the perceived contrast between the darkest black and the whitest white is the same whether I'm on the white or the grey screen. The only real difference is the apparent black level.
> 
> I've already found that I prefer a perceived brighter white than a darker black. When I first got my PJ I was projecting it onto my white wall, and when I installed the grey screen it took me a while to get used to the lower white level. I really like having it back with the matte white.
> 
> The white gives a bit more of a 'glow' feeling to the screen, which I also like (something the ALR did but with the side effect of visual noise and hotspotting).


I appreciate the reply; was hoping to hear from someone who had used all 3 in the same environment, so could assess their relative strengths and weaknesses.

I lean toward the white, but wanted to get some additional input before making the decision.

Thanks again.


----------



## Cyberathlete

DLCPhoto said:


> I have a room 20'x32', with about 12 foot vaulted ceiling which is white, medium brown painted walls, a number of windows and glass doors which will get room darkening cellular shades. The Projector will be the JVC DLA-RS400U. Throw distance 15' 6", projector hung from a beam which bridges the vaulted ceiling. Screen will be the Silver Ticket 138" 2.35:1 fixed mount. Lens memory and zoom will handle the transition between 2.35:1 and 16:9 content.
> 
> My question is which material will be best for me: White (Gain 1.1, apparently measured at 0.95) vs Gray (Gain 1.0 claimed; haven't seen actual measurements).
> 
> During the day, the room will have enough ambient light, most likely, as it isn't very tightly light controlled, that the Gray would probably provide superior contrast and overall image quality.
> 
> But my question is which would be preferred in the evenings, when daylight is no longer an issue?
> 
> Since we can't have everything (where would we put it, if we could?? , apologies to Steven Wright), and something needs to be sacrificed, I would choose in favor of maximizing the picture quality at night, when I would be doing more serious movie watching. That would likely reduce picture quality during the day, but as I said, if I had to choose to make the best of one situation, it would be the nighttime viewing.
> 
> I also understand that a light controlled room is more than just having no daylight; it's a matter of paint color, reflective surfaces, etc. With that in mind, is it likely that the White screen would still yield better performance for me at night? If so, I'll go with the White. But if they're equal at night, and the Gray is superior during the day, then it makes sense to go with the Gray.
> 
> Thoughts, especially from those who have had experience with both the ST White and Gray, under less than ideal room conditions, appreciated!


I would go with the white. It's very unlikely someone has gone through all 3 and that too side by side. Building a screen is a pain in the ass and and running a trial and error and shipping back what you don't want is too much trouble to go through especially since these screens are only $200ish.

A grey screen is meant for projectors with low contrast ratios to help achieve better blacks. A grey will also impact the overall pop and colors of the image. If you have a projector that can produce deep blacks out of the box go with the white.

I am using the White and it's pretty close to my Carada and thus in my books, pretty accurate on color.


----------



## DLCPhoto

Cyberathlete said:


> I would go with the white. It's very unlikely someone has gone through all 3 and that too side by side. Building a screen is a pain in the ass and and running a trial and error and shipping back what you don't want is too much trouble to go through especially since these screens are only $200ish.
> 
> A grey screen is meant for projectors with low contrast ratios to help achieve better blacks. A grey will also impact the overall pop and colors of the image. If you have a projector that can produce deep blacks out of the box go with the white.
> 
> I am using the White and it's pretty close to my Carada and thus in my books, pretty accurate on color.


Thanks. As I said, I am leaning toward the white, but confirmation from people with more experience helps.

It appears that doubleedgedboard did try out all three, although perhaps not simultaneously, and he also recommends the white.

Sounds like white it will be!

Thanks.


----------



## DLCPhoto

I just had an idea, and thought I would run it by people here.

I am considering a 2.35:1 screen, optimal for viewing most movies. But there will be some 16:9 content, which will not use the sides of the screen, which is not ideal. Masking those areas is therefore desirable to maximize perceived contrast, brightness, etc.

Is it possible, and has anyone ever tried, to fabricate a panel of some sort, covered in black velvet, of the same width and height as the side bars that would exist with 16:9 content, and attach it to the sides of the screen frame with a hinge. It could be left open, extending the black frame when viewing 2.35:1 content, and then flipped 180 degrees to cover the side bar area, when viewing 16:9 content.

It seems like an obvious solution - are there any sources for this sort of thing, and if not, would it be possible to implement something like this on one of the fixed frame Silver Ticket screens?


----------



## Dominic Chan

Cyberathlete said:


> A grey screen is meant for projectors with low contrast ratios to help achieve better blacks. A grey will also impact the overall pop and colors of the image. If you have a projector that can produce deep blacks out of the box go with the white.


IMHO this is not true. Grey screens reduce the degradation of the contrast from ambient light that's either existing, or reflected from the ceiling and walls. They do NOT improve the contrast of low contrast ratio projectors.


----------



## Dominic Chan

DLCPhoto said:


> It seems like an obvious solution - are there any sources for this sort of thing, and if not, would it be possible to implement something like this on one of the fixed frame Silver Ticket screens?


The DIY Screen Section has discussions on different ways of implementing maskings.

Note, however, that the side grey bars for 2.35:1 screens are usually darker (less distracting) than the top/bottom grey bars of 16:9 screens, so there's less of a need for masking.


----------



## DLCPhoto

Dominic Chan said:


> The DIY Screen Section has discussions on different ways of implementing maskings.
> 
> Note, however, that the side grey bars for 2.35:1 screens are usually darker (less distracting) than the top/bottom grey bars of 16:9 screens, so there's less of a need for masking.


Thanks for the reply. That's encouraging. I guess I'll start without the masking, and figure something out if it's bothersome.

It just seems like such an easy, obvious solution that I would have thought manufacturers would incorporate into their products, or at least provide it as an available option.


----------



## Viche

Cyberathlete said:


> The ST has a glossy surface vs Carada which is semi-gloss IMO.


So this is the Silver Ticket Matte White Screen? Their matte white looks glossy?

Is ST phasing out 2.35:1 aspect ration screens? I keep finding them out of stock at online.


----------



## Cyberathlete

Viche said:


> So this is the Silver Ticket Matte White Screen? Their matte white looks glossy?
> 
> Is ST phasing out 2.35:1 aspect ration screens? I keep finding them out of stock at online.


It seems to have a slight gloss to it, but not as glossy as it was when I unpacked it. Once stretched out in the frame it seemed more matte. It doesn't affect the over all image as the image still appears flat and matte.


----------



## Cyberathlete

Dominic Chan said:


> IMHO this is not true. Grey screens reduce the degradation of the contrast from ambient light that's either existing, or reflected from the ceiling and walls. They do NOT improve the contrast of low contrast ratio projectors.


That's how they're marketed everywhere (if my memory serves me right) and my friend had an Elite Screen Grey Material and his image seemed to have a bit less pop vs the white screen another friend had (I have 3 friends who live close to me and all have projector based HT so we tend to check out the different brands and items each one of us has).

I have seen the following first hand in homes:

Elite CineWhite with Panasonic AE-7000
Elite CineGrey with Panasonic AE-2000
Elite Cinewhite with Mistubishi (some 720p DLP projector)
Carada BW with Epson 8350
Carada BW with Epson 5030
Carada BW with Sony VPLHW40ES
Silver Ticket White Material with Epson 5030UB

Plus when I spoke with Carada and Da-Lite on which screen to get, they mentioned the same thing, the grey will take out some of the pop and helps with struggling blacks. But from the conversation with them what they were saying leaned towards projectors with low contrast ratios.


----------



## Viche

Cyberathlete said:


> It seems to have a slight gloss to it, but not as glossy as it was when I unpacked it. Once stretched out in the frame it seemed more matte. It doesn't affect the over all image as the image still appears flat and matte.


Got it thanks. ST white won this screen comparison:
http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-projector-screen/

They also spoke highly of GooTube. It was the closest to their reference screen which was a StudioTek 130.Any reason you all didn't opt for that option? Too difficult to install?


----------



## Cyberathlete

Viche said:


> Got it thanks. ST white won this screen comparison:
> http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-projector-screen/
> 
> They also spoke highly of GooTube. It was the closest to their reference screen which was a StudioTek 130.Any reason you all didn't opt for that option? Too difficult to install?


I don't have a flat wall. The current screen resides on unfinished cement wall painted black.

I know ST won the WireCutter review and that's how I found out about Silver Ticket, but honestly I am surprised they did not include Carada BW. I think that the Carada would've beaten it out and also may be a credible threat to Da-Lite, StudioTek or Black Diamond. I am just saying. I find the Carada superior in almost every way to Silver Ticket, and it's also 1/3rd the price of Steward and Black Diamond. But they omitted it from the testing. Strange.

I am going to get a Carada 106" some time later this year and give this one to my brother in law. Even my wife noticed the screen and stated that it's colors don't pop as much as the Carada. Which she thought overall was the better screen. But the large size is intoxicating. I didn't even ask her, this was her immediate observation. I think the screen is getting such rave reviews for the pricing, but if the Carada and this were the same price, I will pick the Carada. For a super serious videophile, I'd probably look at screens other than SilverTicket. It's very good, but not reference IMO.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Cyberathlete said:


> That's how they're marketed everywhere (if my memory serves me right)


Well, Stewart Film Screens describe their Cima Tiburon G2 0.8 gain matte grey screen as:


> The perfect balance between the widest possible viewing cone and the best possible viewing conditions.* For applications without proper light control*. The shade of gray is held super tight to spectral neutrality, no shift in color of any type.


compared with their 1.1 gain Cima Neve white screen:


> The perfect balance between the widest posible viewing cone and the best possible viewing conditions... *Ideally suited for applications where lighting can be controlled.
> *




Source:
http://stewartfilmscreen.com/applications/home-theater-screens/fixed-screens/cima%C2%AE-wallscreen-for-home-cinema


----------



## Viche

Cyberathlete said:


> I don't have a flat wall. The current screen resides on unfinished cement wall painted black.
> 
> I know ST won the WireCutter review and that's how I found out about Silver Ticket, but honestly I am surprised they did not include Carada BW. I think that the Carada would've beaten it out and also may be a credible threat to Da-Lite, StudioTek or Black Diamond. I am just saying. I find the Carada superior in almost every way to Silver Ticket, and it's also 1/3rd the price of Steward and Black Diamond. But they omitted it from the testing. Strange.
> 
> I am going to get a Carada 106" some time later this year and give this one to my brother in law. Even my wife noticed the screen and stated that it's colors don't pop as much as the Carada. Which she thought overall was the better screen. But the large size is intoxicating. I didn't even ask her, this was her immediate observation. I think the screen is getting such rave reviews for the pricing, but if the Carada and this were the same price, I will pick the Carada. For a super serious videophile, I'd probably look at screens other than SilverTicket. It's very good, but not reference IMO.


Darn, not sure I can justify the extra $400, but now I want to.


----------



## Cyberathlete

Viche said:


> Darn, not sure I can justify the extra $400, but now I want to.


If you can't, don't. The Silver Ticket is an otherwise excellent screen and it's weakness is only apparent because I have been doing a direct comparison. If you have never had an experience with another screen, you won't even know what you're missing and in that case trust me, this is an excellent screen. I have no hesitation recommending this for under $400 screens.


----------



## doubledgedboard

Cyberathlete said:


> If you can't, don't. The Silver Ticket is an otherwise excellent screen and it's weakness is only apparent because I have been doing a direct comparison. If you have never had an experience with another screen, you won't even know what you're missing and in that case trust me, this is an excellent screen. I have no hesitation recommending this for under $400 screens.


From what I've read on here, I would interpret that every dollar of that extra $400 is better spent investing in light control than a better screen.


----------



## JackB

I have gone back to pulling down my Da-Lite HP screen in front of my ST. The ST was excellent but it seemed to lack the color display and contrast of the HP. I will recheck from time to time to verify my findings. It's too bad because my wife liked the frame and fixed substance of the ST.


----------



## Cyberathlete

doubledgedboard said:


> From what I've read on here, I would interpret that every dollar of that extra $400 is better spent investing in light control than a better screen.


I have complete light control. 100%


Matte black painted walls (all sides but not ceiling. However I have patches of black fabric in the most light catching places).
2' of Fabric on ceiling on top of the projector to catch reflected light
Black seating
Zero windows in the room


----------



## doubledgedboard

Now that I've been using the matte white for a week, some additional thoughts (vs the grey):

I really do like the 'pop' I get now, especially with white text, it REALLY stands out cleanly, almost making the picture look sharper than it used to.

It is definitely harder to see in the daytime and with ambient light. The blacks become noticeably brighter when under ambient light, to the point that it's fairly easy to completely wash away the screen if it's a dark scene. Even at night time under no other lighting, the reflected light also appears to brighten up the blacks more than before.

I have been switching to 'Low' lamp power at night and 'High (Full)' during the day. I'm color calibrated to the 'Low' setting, but unless it's night time and I have all the lights off, I lose too much of the picture unless I go back to 'High'. This is still better than with the grey, where I had to run Full at night just to keep my whites from looking like crap.

I do notice the whites dim down a bit when I go to 'low', but it still doesn't lose that 'pop' that I like.

I think the best way I can describe the white now, vs the grey, is that the white reminds me of an IPS monitor. IPS monitors exhibit something called 'IPS glow' which refers to the way the backlight tends to raise the black level a bit, and you get this constant almost glowy illumination visible across the screen. This is how I see the blacks now with the matte white... even the darkest blacks are always a little bit 'glowy'.

By approaching it this way, I've become fairly comfortable with the change. I also keep reminding my eyes of the higher white level and clarity.

All-in-all, I think if the Grey gave me truer whites without requiring so much bulb power, I would actually stick with the grey.

However, the white does make me want to start to black out some of these walls.


----------



## ch1sox

doubledgedboard said:


> Now that I've been using the matte white for a week, some additional thoughts (vs the grey):
> 
> I really do like the 'pop' I get now, especially with white text, it REALLY stands out cleanly, almost making the picture look sharper than it used to.
> 
> It is definitely harder to see in the daytime and with ambient light. The blacks become noticeably brighter when under ambient light, to the point that it's fairly easy to completely wash away the screen if it's a dark scene. Even at night time under no other lighting, the reflected light also appears to brighten up the blacks more than before.
> 
> I have been switching to 'Low' lamp power at night and 'High (Full)' during the day. I'm color calibrated to the 'Low' setting, but unless it's night time and I have all the lights off, I lose too much of the picture unless I go back to 'High'. This is still better than with the grey, where I had to run Full at night just to keep my whites from looking like crap.
> 
> I do notice the whites dim down a bit when I go to 'low', but it still doesn't lose that 'pop' that I like.
> 
> I think the best way I can describe the white now, vs the grey, is that the white reminds me of an IPS monitor. IPS monitors exhibit something called 'IPS glow' which refers to the way the backlight tends to raise the black level a bit, and you get this constant almost glowy illumination visible across the screen. This is how I see the blacks now with the matte white... even the darkest blacks are always a little bit 'glowy'.
> 
> By approaching it this way, I've become fairly comfortable with the change. I also keep reminding my eyes of the higher white level and clarity.
> 
> All-in-all, I think if the Grey gave me truer whites without requiring so much bulb power, I would actually stick with the grey.
> 
> However, the white does make me want to start to black out some of these walls.


This is what I noticed as well. The white screens feel very vibrant. I still do like gray to help with a bit of ambient light, but whites to me feels like it has so much more pop.


----------



## welldun

JackB said:


> I have gone back to pulling down my Da-Lite HP screen in front of my ST. The ST was excellent but it seemed to lack the color display and contrast of the HP. I will recheck from time to time to verify my findings. It's too bad because my wife liked the frame and fixed substance of the ST.


Have you recalibrated your picture for each screen? most of the time the difference is due to that fact that we calibrate for the first screen (matte white) then forget to do the same with the new gray screen. therefore, the pop and brightness of the first is lacking in the grey screen. the recommendation is to calibrate the projector for the type of screen that you currently use. On my Epson I am able to save different calibrations, so I've done that for both the white screen and my homemade grey screen. Once you spend enough time tweaking for each, you can get them to look very similar.


----------



## JackB

welldun said:


> Have you recalibrated your picture for each screen? most of the time the difference is due to that fact that we calibrate for the first screen (matte white) then forget to do the same with the new gray screen. therefore, the pop and brightness of the first is lacking in the grey screen. the recommendation is to calibrate the projector for the type of screen that you currently use. On my Epson I am able to save different calibrations, so I've done that for both the white screen and my homemade grey screen. Once you spend enough time tweaking for each, you can get them to look very similar.


I believe my latest color and contrast adjustment using my PF 1500's built in calibration tool was done for the ST. Don't know what it might look like if I did it again for the HP. Maybe even better for the HP, maybe not.


----------



## Dominic Chan

ch1sox said:


> The white screens feel very vibrant. I still do like gray to help with a bit of ambient light, but whites to me feels like it has so much more pop.


When switching between the grey and white screens, did you re-adjust the projector to give you the same luminance with the two screens?


----------



## emlax3

Can someone give me an alternative in a similar price range to Silver Ticket 106 inch? I ordered a SilverTicket frame but it never shipped and they were impossible to contact or find out why. I got refunded so I can "purchase again". But now I am jaded towards SilverTicket. 

If anyone has any recommendations I would appreciate it.


----------



## Brian Hampton

I just bought the 110 16:9 silver ticket screen from Amazon.

I hope it's good.

I have been using the bottom of the line Accuscreen 82" that I bought for $40-ish.

I did have a few second had Stewart screens ... One StudioTek 130 and one First gen Firehawk. I liked both of those but they were 4:3 and very small and ... I damaged the St130 when I followed recommendations to put it out in direct sunlight to relieve wrinkles.

Maybe I will eventually have another St130... seemed like a very nice screen.. it's just not in the budget for me currently.

In the meantime, I hope the Silver Ticket will be fun to use.


----------



## Dominic Chan

emlax3 said:


> Can someone give me an alternative in a similar price range to Silver Ticket 106 inch? I ordered a SilverTicket frame but it never shipped and they were impossible to contact or find out why. I got refunded so I can "purchase again". But now I am jaded towards SilverTicket.
> 
> If anyone has any recommendations I would appreciate it.


Elite Screens are in the same price range. However, I never had problems contacting Silver Ticket. Did you buy on their website or on Amazon?


----------



## AMartin56

So I received my 125 inch 2.35 White Silver Ticket screen last week and now have it on the wall. 

My room has dark gray walls and ceilings with a dark 6x9 foot rug in front of the screen. The rest of the carpet is light colored and the room trim is still white. I'll eventually have fully blacked out windows but for now watch at night only. 

I haven't pulled out the meter to check for grayscale accuracy but overall I really like the picture... Especially for the price. But the experience wasn't perfect :

Not sure if this is just the wide-screen but the little tube that holds the two sections of the tensioning rod came off while in the material channel (that was a huge PITA) and I never could get all four corner sections to line up perfectly. Two of them have small gaps along the slanted edge. I would tighten one and another would slip. But it's not really noticeable on the wall. 

But ultimately I'm satisfied. We have a toddler and I didn't want a pricey screen that she might destroy. Maybe someday.


----------



## AMartin56

I should add that prior to hanging the Silver Ticket I had some Carl's Place material tacked to the wall. The CP material was pretty nice but I prefer the texture on the ST screen.


----------



## Dominic Chan

AMartin56 said:


> Not sure if this is just the wide-screen but the little tube that holds the two sections of the tensioning rod came off while in the material channel (that was a huge PITA)


That little tube is not very well designed. They should have it threaded so that the two halves of the rod won't slide off. With that in mind, one should only push the rod from either end to centre it, and not pull it. However, I didn't find it very hard to rejoin the two halves even if they slip off.



> and I never could get all four corner sections to line up perfectly. Two of them have small gaps along the slanted edge.


Are the gaps uniform in width or tapered? If the latter, you have have to adjust the angle slightly to eliminate the gap.


----------



## AMartin56

Dominic Chan said:


> That little tube is not very well designed. They should have it threaded so that the two halves of the rod won't slide off. With that in mind, one should only push the rod from either end to centre it, and not pull it. However, I didn't find it very hard to rejoin the two halves even if they slip off.
> 
> 
> Are the gaps uniform in width or tapered? If the latter, you have have to adjust the angle slightly to eliminate the gap.


I'd say uniform but I don't entirety remember. I just got tired of chasing it. The plastic piece behind it is also black so it's not TERRIBLE looking. And not hugely annoying since I doubt it will be my forever screen.


----------



## AMartin56

On the bright side the support bar went in MUCH easier than my last ST screen (which I returned).


----------



## Brian Hampton

AMartin56 said:


> But ultimately I'm satisfied. We have a toddler and I didn't want a pricey screen that she might destroy. Maybe someday.


I really relate to that. I had 2 used Stewart screens that I picked up for $100... Now, they weren't great to begin with but I found it much too easy to damage one of them. I didn't keep either of them but damage can happen fast. It wasn't my kids who damaged mine it was me but knowing a screen can cost as much as a nice UHD TV, I'm not ready to put up a $2000 screen for my projector right now.


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## novice_01

I bought AT silver ticket screen couple weeks ago, some wrinkles are still present. I tried hair dryer on couple different days with improvement, but I can still see some of them during movies if look for them. Any good advise how to get rid of them. Will try hair dryer again, I guess, anything else?


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## Brian Hampton

novice_01 said:


> I bought AT silver ticket screen couple weeks ago, some wrinkles are still present. I tried hair dryer on couple different days with improvement, but I can still see some of them during movies if look for them. Any good advise how to get rid of them. Will try hair dryer again, I guess, anything else?


If you bought it new and it's not working I would exchange it.

Messing with blow dryers and then eventually putting my screen in direct sunlight was my path to having the screen fall over and get trashed.

If you bought it new,... you shouldn't be having this problem.

(If it's used and has been improperly stored then ignore this.)


----------



## novice_01

Brian Hampton said:


> If you bought it new and it's not working I would exchange it.
> 
> Messing with blow dryers and then eventually putting my screen in direct sunlight was my path to having the screen fall over and get trashed.
> 
> If you bought it new,... you shouldn't be having this problem.
> 
> (If it's used and has been improperly stored then ignore this.)


It is new,bouhgt through amazon. I thought about return, but wrinkles are almost impossible to notice during movies. They easy to spot when lights on and pj is off. However during movies if you know where to look and only during bright (white sceenes) I can spot some shadowing. Not entirely sure if new cloth would be better. ST is budget screen after all. Thanks.


----------



## Jbed27

novice_01 said:


> It is new,bouhgt through amazon. I thought about return, but wrinkles are almost impossible to notice during movies. They easy to spot when lights on and pj is off. However during movies if you know where to look and only during bright (white sceenes) I can spot some shadowing. Not entirely sure if new cloth would be better. ST is budget screen after all. Thanks.




My screen came in from Amazon all wrinkled and blistered too (110" white). Fortunately, mine stretched out completely and they are gone. I did, however, call ST support prior to assembling the screen and they were very cool. The person told me that they were fairly certain the wrinkles would stretch out, but that if I tried it and was unhappy for any reason, to let them knows and they would send me a new screen material no problem. I would email their support and direct them to your concern, and I am sure they will ship you another screen since you are dissatisfied. I love the way the screen looks when I am not watching content, so seeing lines/creases would bug the $hit out of me..


----------



## novice_01

Jbed27 said:


> My screen came in from Amazon all wrinkled and blistered too (110" white). Fortunately, mine stretched out completely and they are gone. I did, however, call ST support prior to assembling the screen and they were very cool. The person told me that they were fairly certain the wrinkles would stretch out, but that if I tried it and was unhappy for any reason, to let them knows and they would send me a new screen material no problem. I would email their support and direct them to your concern, and I am sure they will ship you another screen since you are dissatisfied. I love the way the screen looks when I am not watching content, so seeing lines/creases would bug the $hit out of me..


Thanks, decided to quit messing with the screen myself and contacted ST support. Will see what happens.


----------



## Carlucci

I got mine from Amazon today, a 120" white, and after assembly, when I turned it over, I immediately noticed this defect right n the center of the screen.











For scale









I'll contact the seller tomorrow to see if they'll send me out replacement material. Other than this blemish, the screen looks really nice. I didn't try to project an image on it yet, but I'm going to prop it on some chairs and project a movie on it to see how it looks, before I hang it on the wall, to make sure I love how it looks.


----------



## Viper359

So, I ordered this screen middle of January. It arrived to me in Toronto, Ontario, Canada in 10 days, which for something of this shipping size, was impressive. I had to pick it up at my post office, because our local mailman doesn't have a Canada Post truck, he uses his own minivan. No big deal to me, I own a small pickup truck, and it fit right in the back on an angle. My duty something like $20.00, which I can live with. The thing that angers me about this screen, is that I should have bought the bloody thing when the Canadian dollar was on par with the greenback, and stuck it in storage, as i always knew when I was moving, and the screen size I wanted.

I did the entire assembly of the 120" myself. Took less than 30 minutes. The instructions seem way to simple, but, if you just putter around the screen, looking at it, its easy to figure out. However, when it came to putting that centre bar from top to bottom in, called the wife in, had her hold the top of the screen, while I took my hammer and smacked the living crap out of it, until it was dead centre. The noise it made, I thought for sure I was going to break the screen apart. Nothing happened. Mounting is pretty straight forward. I have to level mine a little bit better, its off just enough that I notice it, but, no one else does. I have a feeling there isn't a home theatre lover in this group that doesn't have something in their room they notice isn't quiet right, that know one else see's.

Going from a Grandview 92" to this 120" white, is a major step up in awe factor. It just didn't seem like it was going to be such a big jump, but, it really is. The PQ seems about the same from my Benq w1070. There are times I think the picture is a little dark, so, I think I have to make adjustments to the settings, since I have increased to a much larger size. I also have 3000hrs on the bulb, so that could also be a legit factor.

So, how happy am I with this screen? Well aside from the fact you cannot buy a 120" TV, my cost of a $700 Benq W1070 projector, and $400 in screen, I cannot be happier, and recommend to anyone I can.


----------



## muzz

I haven't seen any professional reviews, but the talk I've seen online, it seems the ST AT Screens have very noticeable weave unless 13' away or so.
I was looking at a 106"d for 10-11' away....
Was considering the Seymour XD, which will be ~300 for JUST the material, the UF for a bit less(but not as bright).
The ST STR-169106-WAB Silver Ticket price is fantastic seeing it HAS a decent frame, but if the material is lousy, I can't buy that. Falcon has been tested, and is a LOT more$, as is the Seymour..
I can build a frame, but it'd be nice to have a nice solid ALU frame..

Guess I'm still looking!


----------



## NashvilleMark

muzz said:


> I haven't seen any professional reviews, but the talk I've seen online, it seems the ST AT Screens have very noticeable weave unless 13' away or so.
> I was looking at a 106"d for 10-11' away....
> Was considering the Seymour XD, which will be ~300 for JUST the material, the UF for a bit less(but not as bright).
> The ST STR-169106-WAB Silver Ticket price is fantastic seeing it HAS a decent frame, but if the material is lousy, I can't buy that. Falcon has been tested, and is a LOT more$, as is the Seymour..
> I can build a frame, but it'd be nice to have a nice solid ALU frame..
> 
> Guess I'm still looking!


I have the 120" AT Silver Ticket Screen, and I'd say you can sit much closer without seeing the weave. When the movie is showing, I never see it. I love my screen. No issues with it.


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## muzz

NashvilleMark said:


> I have the 120" AT Silver Ticket Screen, and I'd say you can sit much closer without seeing the weave. When the movie is showing, I never see it. I love my screen. No issues with it.


I appreciate your response Mark, you're opinion seems to vary quite a bit from others on here regarding the weave.
The XD weave is also visible/distracting to MOST at


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## JShank1988

I bought one myself about a month ago, still working on finishing the basement. I haven't pulled it out of the box yet. Every review I've read on these screens, people are singing praises about them. Looking forward to putting mine together!


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## NashvilleMark

muzz said:


> I appreciate your response Mark, you're opinion seems to vary quite a bit from others on here regarding the weave.
> The XD weave is also visible/distracting to MOST at


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## muzz

NashvilleMark said:


> I didn't ask for a sample. You could always contact them. I ordered mine from Amazon.


I probably will, I'm going through this thread again, thought I saw they didn't, but may have been wrong.
Has anyone tested the AT and Video properties on this screen, taken measurements?


Thanks

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk


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## Carlucci

I emailed Silver Ticket this morning about my defect mentioned upthread. Their response came quickly and all they wanted to know were some specific identifiers, like the colors of the cross bar and the arrow stickers, to determine which exact replacement material to send me. Once I responded with that info, they came back with a tracking number. New material will be here Monday. Excellent customer service.


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## muzz

Good stuff.
Thanks for the info.



rtart said:


> I haven't seen much feedback from ST owners of acoustically transparent screens here, so I thought I would share my experience.
> 
> I ordered my 120" AT screen from Amazon on Sept 24th and received it, and installed it, on September 30th. Except for some stubborn minor puckering of the seam on the bottom of the screen, no problems. It's been about 10 days with no change in the puckering, even after the hair dryer fix the website recommends. (The hair dryer worked on the other wrinkles, though.) Looks like the heat-sealed seam just had the pucker in it when it was sealed together. Just in two places on one edge (the bottom), but nowhere else. I'll give it another week and reach out to ST if it doesn't go away.
> 
> I replaced a Draper (now Accuscreens) 106" AT screen with the ST 120", (the old screen, the Draper/Accuscreens one, is for sale in the Classifieds section, BTW) and the PQ seems to be basically the same. The 'old' screen had basically no texture and comparable gain, and to my eyes the ST screen looks the same, only bigger.
> 
> For those interested, the gain of the ST screen seems visibly to be the same as a sample of Seymour's XD fabric. (I compared the sample to the ST screen on a white section while the PJ was on. Neither fabric was brighter than the other. The ST screen has less texture/pattern to it, though. Seymour's UD fabric had visibly less gain when tested the same way. Much less texture in the UD than either the ST screen or XD fabric.
> 
> A couple days after I installed the ST screen I wrote a review on Amazon. Here it is, for those interested.
> 
> _This is my third acoustically transparent screen...the last was a Draper AT1200 106" screen. I wanted to go bigger because my new JVC RS46u can throw a bright enough picture in 3D to make this possible. I've been a home theater fan for many years, and have owned a dedicated theater for well over a decade. Since the days of Laserdiscs, CRT projectors, and Dolby Surround. (You might find me on AVSForum, Emotiva Lounge, or the Polk Audio Forum as "rtart.")
> 
> As part of my constant upgrade path, I did a lot of reading online before pulling the trigger on the ST screen reviewed here so had no surprises about the assembly instructions (or lack thereof). Watching the YouTube video makes it all clear, and a little mechanical inclination makes it fairly easy to put together and mount. The biggest issue with screens is their shipping size and cost...a ten foot long box is going to cost to ship. ST makes this screen frame in sections, so the longer (top and bottom) frame sections have to be connected somehow. ST manages this issue well, with a very sturdy connector between the two sections. The frame side sections are one piece, so no middle connection is necessary. Corners go together with reinforcing brackets and screws, and are very sturdy. After joining the top and bottom halves, put the corner brackets on the top and bottom first, then connect the frame sides.
> 
> I recommend adding the hanging brackets at this point, and figure out how you are going to mount the screen to the wall. Trust me, it's easier to do if you can reach through before the fabric is installed. Once you mount the wall bracket halves onto the wall, its time to install the fabric. Pull down the frame and lay it "ugly" side up.
> 
> Roll out the fabric and thread in the rods in the pockets. The shorter ones go on the top and bottom and meet in the middle. Start in with every third spring to get started, then fill in the ones that are missing. (The diagram does help a little here....the springs should clip down over the rods, and then the other end into the channel on the frame)
> 
> Fabric is pulled snugly by the springs, but inserting the middle supports (there are 2 here) was easy. I installed the hanging brackets onto the frame first, and set one end against the bracket while "encouraging" the other end to the other bracket with a mallet. If you orient them correctly (see the diagram) they will go in pretty easily...but you WILL need a mallet to get it done. Don't be shy, but you might want to wrap the mallet in a clean cloth to protect the screen surface.
> 
> A few small wrinkles in the screen, but I expect them to come out in a day or two. If this is an issue, I will revisit this review.
> 
> Fabric appears to indeed be 1.1 gain, as compared to my other screens and a couple of samples from other manufacturers. Acoustic performance also appears to be as good as past screens I have owned. The weave of the fabric is invisible from my viewing distance, which is around 11 feet.
> 
> All things considered, this is a substantial screen that appears to have cost a LOT more than I paid. I would recommend it to anyone considering it. Took me about an hour, by myself, from opening the box to watching a movie._


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## muzz

Ordered the 106" AT, will be nice to get my speakers off the floor!


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## novice_01

muzz said:


> Ordered the 106" AT, will be nice to get my speakers off the floor!


Good for you. Its a great screen for the price and great customer service. I do not see the weave from 12' away. I had some wrinkles on the screen, contacted customer support and now im getting stiffer springs to resolve wrinkles. I applied some extra tension with my hands where wrinkles are present and little more tension seems to solve my problem. Hopefully stifer (shorter) springs resolve my issue.


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## chrisgrind

*Silver Ticket AT Screen Minimum Viewing Distance*

Hi All,

Could someone with an Silver Ticket Acoustically Transparent Screen, please check for me what the minimum viewing distance is for them while watching something, before you can see the holes in the screen?

I have decided on an ST AT screen (106") but my screen to eyes distance is about 2.6m (8.5 feet).

I will email ST about it as well, I couldn't find anything on their site.

As I am from Australia, sending it back is not really an option (it's costing me more in postage than it is for the screen...coincidently, that is still cheaper than buying locally, with the cheapest AT screen I have found being $1200 with no information/reviews/can't see it before I buy).


PS. If anyone here has experience purchasing silver ticket products and posting to Australia, I welcome your feedback/experience.

Thanks
Chris


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## muzz

Conflicting, some say a problem at 13', others say no issues at 11.
I'll be a bit over 10' from 106", I'll lyk what I see.
Best I can do, screen will be here Tuesday, so hopefully by Wednesday night.
Best I personally can do for ya.

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## chrisgrind

thanks Muzz, I'll look forward to hearing. I have been too busy landscaping to do out HT, but I thoguht I read 8' somewhere ~6 months ago.

Hopefully it is ok at 8', cause I've designed everything around having an AT screen.


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## Patriot666

I'm moving and will be able to go bigger than my 92" screen. I'm happy with my grey ST screen, but now I'm debating on going white, AT, and 2:35. Decisions decisions....


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## muzz

Screen arrived today while at work, not sure I'll get to it tonight though.

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## muzz

Decided to mess with the screen.
As stated, the directions are weak at best, but if you've worked in construction it's pretty easy to figure out.
ALL the plates go INSIDE precision cuts of the channel(slots and splines) the plates have the thread, when completed all you will see are screwheads.
When putting on the last edge(vertical end), put both corner plates in that end(and tack it in place with a screw each-loose for a little play), then just guide it in their respective grooves slowly, if straight it'll slide right in.
When putting plates in, I always installed 1 screw in the plates(which side) to hold the plates in place, and also figured on centers to pin it with a screw, pull it out as far as possible, and tighten it, if you don't do this it'll wanna push in further than you want(and other screws will NOT line up)once pinned with a screw you can pull the pieces together easily, and the holes should line up.
Screws are Stainless, if you use a drill do NOT reef these down, as the threads could spall and you'll be screwed, although maybe they won't with the frame being ALU, been to the spalled Stainless school, didn't like it while trying to take stuff apart.
I used a Phillips screwdriver.
I'm actually impressed the frame looks as good as it does for the cost, corners line up mint, with a decent looking velvet cover.
Guess I should put the screen on now.
I won't be using the brackets, as I will be hanging mine from eye hooks that are in the ceiling(no screen wall yet-maybe never) holding my current screen, so I need to figure out something without drilling until I decide if it's gonna be a good enough screen...I have a few ideas.

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## Carlucci

I received the replacement material today, and it looks terrific. Silver Ticket made it right, right away. I'm really glad I took a chance on them instead of spending $1800 or more on another name-brand screen.


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## muzz

Not having the black backing attached must save them a bunch of $, but I think it's a poor idea myself...now I have go buy Velcro or some other nonsense to attach it, and think about combing...bah.

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## doubledgedboard

For those having issues getting the corners together nicely, I used a metal 90-degree square and aligned each corner that way. I have some minor gaps between the corner edges, but they're square!


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## muzz

I pulled them tight while they were loose, and tightened them each side, 1 at a time(across), and corners pulled together nicely. I used to do some Mall window glazing,(think 10-12' tall 1/2" glass storefronts at the Mall with ALU Shoe)so I was used to working with ALU and mitered corners. I'm sure the velvet helps hide a bit too.

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## Viper359

This is what I did as well. Everything I have ever put together, I usually fasten this way. No clue why I do this, I just do.





muzz said:


> I pulled them tight while they were loose, and tightened them each side, 1 at a time(across), and corners pulled together nicely. I used to do some Mall window glazing,(think 10-12' tall 1/2" glass storefronts at the Mall with ALU Shoe)so I was used to working with ALU and mitered corners. I'm sure the velvet helps hide a bit too.
> 
> Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk


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## muzz

OK, the screen is not hanging, but standing in place at it's resting place, propped against my subs.
9'6"(leaning forward on couch) looks fine to me, I CAN see texture if I look for it, but it's in no way obtrusive to me personally.
I put on pure white/blue/green screens to look for it, as well as movies.
Sitting back adds at least a foot, and it's even better.
My eyesight is NOT PERFECT, but I went up to the screen, found the weave on bright scene paused(and live), and moved back.
I personally don't see a big issue at 8' or more.
Haven't really watched it a bunch, but it looks good, so I'll be drilling the top frame, putting in clips and rings, and hanging it off ceiling.
As of right now, pretty happy, although I do have a few wrinkles.


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## muzz

muzz said:


> OK, the screen is not hanging, but standing in place at it's resting place, propped against my subs.
> 9'6"(leaning forward on couch) looks fine to me, I CAN see texture if I look for it, but it's in no way obtrusive to me personally.
> I put on pure white/blue/green screens to look for it, as well as movies.
> Sitting back adds at least a foot, and it's even better.
> My eyesight is NOT PERFECT, but I went up to the screen, found the weave on bright scene paused(and live), and moved back.
> I personally don't see a big issue at 8' or more.
> Haven't really watched it a bunch, but it looks good, so I'll be drilling the top frame, putting in clips and rings, and hanging it off ceiling.
> As of right now, pretty happy, although I do have a few wrinkles.
> 
> 
> Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk


Screen looks fine, although I keep thinking it's darker than pure white....
I put the milliskin white against it...
You can see the color for itself, now mi lliskin white is considered .70 or so gain, this ST WAB IS SUPPOSED TO BE 1.1-1.2(which is stupid)..take a look, I draped the milliskin over the ST..
WHATTA YA THINK, the milliskin is considered dark!








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## muzz

Yep, tested on various screenies, the AT looks darker then the milliskin, which is already dark, 1+gain, I'm not seeing that at all.


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## muzz

No way is this 1.0

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## muzz

No way

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## muzz

It:s a tiny bit darker than milliskin


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## chrisgrind

muzz said:


> ....
> 9'6"(leaning forward on couch) looks fine to me, I CAN see texture if I look for it, but it's in no way obtrusive to me personally.
> ...
> I put on pure white/blue/green screens to look for it, as well as movies.
> ....
> I personally don't see a big issue at 8' or more.
> ....


thanks for the opinion/experience 

anyone else care to comment on whether you notice the weave at 9' for me please?


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## chrisgrind

Silver Ticket told me 10' is the recommended closest distance, but though I should be fine at 8'


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## chrisgrind

chrisgrind said:


> thanks for the opinion/experience
> 
> anyone else care to comment on whether you notice the weave at 9' for me please?


sorry, that should have been 8' - not sure if it's just me as a newbie, but I couldn't edit the post


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## VolkerH.

As the distance for my front row is going to be somewhere around 7' to 8' and I was afraid the weave visibility would bug me I decided against an AT screen and went with the grey material instead. My STR-169110-G should be here by Tuesday  


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## Viche

I'm sure this is been answered before, but what affect does thr AT screen have on sound? Is it the equivalent of the fabric speaker grills? If you remove those, and put the speakers behind the screen, is it about the same overall effect?


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## scubalab

I apologize if this has been covered or answered before, but I'm looking to replace my screen and am considering a Silver Ticket 92" fixed frame screen or the Elite Screens Sable B2 series 92" screen. Both seem very similar, are close in price, and get favorable reviews here and on Amazon. If anyone has experience with both manufacturers, can you advise which one you preferred?


From what I've read, the ST screens have the center support bar (that can be tough to install), but I would think that would help keep the top and bottom of the frame from bowing under the tension of the screen. I've also read that customer service is top notch with Silver Ticket. On the flipside, the Elite Screens seem to get great reviews as well.


*I'm sure they're both very similar, but if you had to choose, which would you go with?*


_My room is 10'x20' with 7'4" ceiling height and is fully light-controlled (or will be when completed ). I'm using an Epson 8350 PJ, and currently have an older fixed frame screen (I believe Draper) that I don't care for. It uses snaps to attach the screen to the frame, and it doesn't keep the border perfectly straight._

Thanks in advance ~ Al


----------



## muzz

The center bar isn't an issue with careful use of a mallet.
Piece of cake.
"Tap tap taparooooo"

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk


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## AMartin56

muzz said:


> The center bar isn't an issue with careful use of a mallet.
> Piece of cake.
> "Tap tap taparooooo"
> 
> Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk


It also helps if another person tugs on the frame a bit.


----------



## muzz

Not necessary, but yes.
That center support is NOT a problem

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk


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## mhconley

My first post in this thread... after reading all 26 pages I decided to buy a Silver Ticket 138" 2.35:1 Silver ALR screen for my combination family room, dining room and kitchen. I cannot believe a 138" screen for $449! I will be pairing it with a Panasonic PT-AE8000U. The Panny will be on a 72" shelf approximately 16' away from the screen. Main seating position is at about 14'. Screen should arrive on Tuesday, projector sometime after. I plan to have everything setup the weekend of the 23rd. I am happily awaiting my new arrivals. I'll post pictures and impressions in about 9 days.

Martin


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## muzz

What is the gain of that screen? 

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk


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## Dominic Chan

muzz said:


> What is the gain of that screen?


The Silver Ticket ALR screens have a rated on-axis gain of 1.5. I did some measurements and confirmed that, from the "optimal" viewing position, the gain is about 1.5 at the centre and drops off to about 0.75 at the sides.
I posted a mini-review of it previously:
Silver Ticket ALR Mini Review


----------



## bscool

*Str-169120*

I just purchased the STR-169120 from Amazon and it arrived in 2 days and the package was a little beat up but I didn't think there would be any damage and if any hopefully minimal. The only thing I noticed is there were a couple of small spots that the black velvet that covers the outer edge was worn almost off or through to the point it was smooth and almost shiny. I am guessing this happened in vibrating or rubbing during shipping. This tiny flaw most likely wold never even be noticed from a normal viewing distance.(or it may in the dark stand out as it is now somewhat shiny or smooth versus the textured velvet. I did not view the screen in total blackout or dark conditions as I was just setting it up to make sure there were no defects in anything and that my projector mounting location would work in my home theatre I am building.)

I just wanted to report though that the little viewing I did do on the screen I was very impressed with the quality of the screen in viewing and overall materials used in the components of the screen and frame, especially for the price of $250 shipped.

With that said I will probably be returning this screen and getting the 150" version if I can make the projector mounting location work for the 150".

I am using the BenQ HT2050 and I have never had a projector before this, I am used to viewing high res IPS screens and Panasonic TC-P60U50 plasma that are color calibrated and I was very impressed with the quality from this projector just on a plain white wall and even more so on the low priced Silver Screen screen.


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## mhconley

I read through this entire thread and never found close up pictures of Silver Ticket screen materials. Silver Ticket does not seem to have them on their website either. I just found Amazon.com has the and I've posted them here for those interested.

Matte White (1.1 gain)









Matte Grey (1.0 gain)









Silver ALR (1.5 gain)









Woven Acoustic (1.1 gain)









Martin


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## chrisgrind

mhconley said:


> I read through this entire thread and never found close up pictures of Silver Ticket screen materials. Silver Ticket does not seem to have them on their website either. I just found Amazon.com has the and I've posted them here for those interested.
> 
> 
> Martin


thanks Martin. Very helpful.


----------



## Nexgen76

I own the Matte Grey screen I wonder how much difference I will see in the Silver ALR screen ?


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## mhconley

I got my 138" 2.35:1 Silver ALR screen up last night and I have mixed feelings about it.

Pros:

Build quality and ease of assembly.
Bright even picture with no hotspotting and minimal fall off towards the edges.
Good ambient light rejection.

Cons:

Uneven texture, especially on bright scenes. The wife and son don't see it as a problem but I cannot unsee the texture. I would not be as bothered by it if it was a smooth even texture but it is blotchy and uneven.

Is the blotchiness a flaw or is this just the way this screen is? I don't want to go white because I like the ALR performance of this screen and I am afraid the grey matte may be too dim. I'll live with it a few more days, at least through the GoT season premiere, but it could be going back. 

Martin

These pictures were taken mid-day on a sunny day:


----------



## bpassman

mhconley said:


> I got my 138" 2.35:1 Silver ALR screen up last night and I have mixed feelings about it.
> 
> Pros:
> 
> Build quality and ease of assembly.
> Bright even picture with no hotspotting and minimal fall off towards the edges.
> Good ambient light rejection.
> 
> Cons:
> 
> Uneven texture, especially on bright scenes. The wife and son don't see it as a problem but I cannot unsee the texture. I would not be as bothered by it if it was a smooth even texture but it is blotchy and uneven.
> 
> Is the blotchiness a flaw or is this just the way this screen is? I don't want to go white because I like the ALR performance of this screen and I am afraid the grey matte may be too dim. I'll live with it a few more days, at least through the GoT season premiere, but it could be going back.
> 
> Martin
> 
> These pictures were taken mid-day on a sunny day:


I think that has to be the ALR causing that.


----------



## mhconley

bpassman said:


> I think that has to be the ALR causing that.


It is not the ALR artifacts that bother me it's the blotchiness. Those images did not capture it well. This one does.









It looks like water stains on fabric. When bright images move on the screen it causes what I can only describe as the Chowder effect.





I.e., the pattern remains stationary while the image moves across the screen.

Martin


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## Dominic Chan

mhconley said:


> I.e., the pattern remains stationary while the image moves across the screen.


I noticed the same and pointed it out in my mini review.
The blotchiness is much more distracting than the "sparklies".


----------



## mhconley

Dominic Chan said:


> I noticed the same and pointed it out in my mini review.
> The blotchiness is much more distracting than the "sparklies".


I contacted Silver Ticket customer support over the weekend. I sent pictures and video of the screen. They state the blotchiness in the texture of the screen material is a flaw. They are sending me out new screen material today; I should have it in hand later this week. I'll report back on whether it is any better than what I have.

We watched the season premiere of GoT last night in all it's 54" high 16:9 glory. The picture was very, very good; color, detail, brightness and black level are all there. While the blotchiness bothered me, especially in the brighter scenes, my wife said it did not bother her at all. She thought the picture was fantastic.

Martin


----------



## Dominic Chan

mhconley said:


> I contacted Silver Ticket customer support over the weekend. I sent pictures and video of the screen. They state the blotchiness in the texture of the screen material is a flaw.


Some have reported that their replacement did not have the issue. I'd be very interested to hear about your update.


----------



## shete.prakash

mhconley said:


> I contacted Silver Ticket customer support over the weekend. I sent pictures and video of the screen. They state the blotchiness in the texture of the screen material is a flaw. They are sending me out new screen material today; I should have it in hand later this week. I'll report back on whether it is any better than what I have.
> 
> We watched the season premiere of GoT last night in all it's 54" high 16:9 glory. The picture was very, very good; color, detail, brightness and black level are all there. While the blotchiness bothered me, especially in the brighter scenes, my wife said it did not bother her at all. She thought the picture was fantastic.
> 
> Martin


How was ur experience with silver ALR, why smdo u prefer it over matte white screen ? Is the silver gain over matte white pronounced ?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## mhconley

shete.prakash said:


> How was ur experience with silver ALR, why smdo u prefer it over matte white screen ? Is the silver gain over matte white pronounced ?


I purchased the Silver ALR because my room is not light controlled. I like it for the reasons Dominic listed in his mini review, specifically its color neutrality, gain and contrast, and ambient light rejection. I have no issues with hotspotting or dim corners at my 15.5' throw and 14' viewing distance. I've never used a matte white screen so I have no comparison. 

Martin


----------



## doubledgedboard

mhconley said:


> I purchased the Silver ALR because my room is not light controlled. I like it for the reasons Dominic listed in his mini review, specifically its color neutrality, gain and contrast, and ambient light rejection. I have no issues with hotspotting or dim corners at my 15.5' throw and 14' viewing distance. I've never used a matte white screen so I have no comparison.
> 
> Martin


I've gone through the Grey, Silver, and Matte White options, also in a non-light controlled environment. I've got photos earlier in the thread.

Anyway, I absolutely couldn't stand the texture and hotspotting of the Silver ALR. The light rejection also wasn't that impressive when you combine it with the distracting texture. I much prefer the Grey for light rejection (or well, the appearance of it).

However, I've settled on the Matte White. It washes out a bit during the day, but as long as I use full bulb power it's still watchable. At night, it's beautiful, and the whites and colors have much more 'pop' than the Grey.

For your situation, I would at least consider trying out the Grey.


----------



## mhconley

doubledgedboard said:


> I've gone through the Grey, Silver, and Matte White options, also in a non-light controlled environment. I've got photos earlier in the thread.
> 
> Anyway, I absolutely couldn't stand the texture and hotspotting of the Silver ALR. The light rejection also wasn't that impressive when you combine it with the distracting texture. I much prefer the Grey for light rejection (or well, the appearance of it).
> 
> However, I've settled on the Matte White. It washes out a bit during the day, but as long as I use full bulb power it's still watchable. At night, it's beautiful, and the whites and colors have much more 'pop' than the Grey.
> 
> For your situation, I would at least consider trying out the Grey.


Can you point me toward your photos? I used the search function but could not find them.

Thanks,

Martin


----------



## Dominic Chan

mhconley said:


> I contacted Silver Ticket customer support over the weekend. I sent pictures and video of the screen. They state the blotchiness in the texture of the screen material is a flaw. They are sending me out new screen material today; I should have it in hand later this week. I'll report back on whether it is any better than what I have.


Any update on the replacement screen material?


----------



## Dominic Chan

mhconley said:


> I contacted Silver Ticket customer support over the weekend. I sent pictures and video of the screen. They state the blotchiness in the texture of the screen material is a flaw. They are sending me out new screen material today; I should have it in hand later this week. I'll report back on whether it is any better than what I have.


Any update on the replacement screen material?


----------



## mhconley

Dominic Chan said:


> Any update on the replacement screen material?


The new screen exhibits the same mottling defect. It is easily seen in this oblique shot taken with ambient light hitting the screen.









I contacted Silver Ticket again to ask if there is any possibility of getting the Silver ALR material without these defects and also about their white and grey matte materials.

The saga continues...

Martin


----------



## mhconley

One thing I can say is Silver Ticket's customer service is very responsive. They offered to replace the screen with another Silver ALR, a Matte Grey or a Matte White, my choice. I told them that if they can send an inspected and guaranteed Silver ALR I'd take one last chance on it.

I'll be back in a week or more after I receive, install and test the new screen...

Martin


----------



## chrisgrind

chrisgrind said:


> Silver Ticket told me 10' is the recommended closest distance, but though I should be fine at 8'



I got my screen.106" AT Screen.

8 foot I can see the weave clearly in light areas, such as Caucasian faces, white walls etc. But I don't notice it for other things. It was distracting for the first 10 minutes, but after that I didn't really notice it.


----------



## Fleat

I ordered the 120" white screen (STR-169120) a month ago and have been using it for a few weeks now. The quality of the image on this screen is great, but the mounting system is frustrating at best. 

I have a JTR Captivator subwoofer, and it rattles the screen brackets horribly bad. I have tried mounting the screws further into the wall or further away. At this point, I have the entire cross brace and the four corners covered in 3/4" foam tape which helped to eliminate some of the rattles. 

I think the rest of the rattles are just coming from the poor mounting bracket setup and the way it attaches to the screen. They just rattle inside of the channel they slide into causing the entire frame of the screen to resonate. 

My EliteScreen before this did not have any of these issues. Anyone have any recommendations for an alternate mounting approach?


----------



## Jbed27

Fleat said:


> I ordered the 120" white screen (STR-169120) a month ago and have been using it for a few weeks now. The quality of the image on this screen is great, but the mounting system is frustrating at best.
> 
> I have a JTR Captivator subwoofer, and it rattles the screen brackets horribly bad. I have tried mounting the screws further into the wall or further away. At this point, I have the entire cross brace and the four corners covered in 3/4" foam tape which helped to eliminate some of the rattles.
> 
> I think the rest of the rattles are just coming from the poor mounting bracket setup and the way it attaches to the screen. They just rattle inside of the channel they slide into causing the entire frame of the screen to resonate.
> 
> My EliteScreen before this did not have any of these issues. Anyone have any recommendations for an alternate mounting approach?


I have a 110" ST screen, and I only use the top two sliding brackets. Using all 4 is unnecessary in my opinion, since they slide and you will have no issue hitting studs. The top 2 have enough tension on them from the weight of the screen, there is no way for them to rattle, even with heavy, deep bass. Are you using 2 or all 4 (2 on top, 2 on bottom) sliding brackets?


----------



## Fleat

Jbed27 said:


> I have a 110" ST screen, and I only use the top two sliding brackets. Using all 4 is unnecessary in my opinion, since they slide and you will have no issue hitting studs. The top 2 have enough tension on them from the weight of the screen, there is no way for them to rattle, even with heavy, deep bass. Are you using 2 or all 4 (2 on top, 2 on bottom) sliding brackets?


I am actually using all four. I will pull down the screen and remove the bottom two brackets. Thanks for the suggestion!


----------



## Jbed27

Fleat said:


> Jbed27 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 110" ST screen, and I only use the top two sliding brackets. Using all 4 is unnecessary in my opinion, since they slide and you will have no issue hitting studs. The top 2 have enough tension on them from the weight of the screen, there is no way for them to rattle, even with heavy, deep bass. Are you using 2 or all 4 (2 on top, 2 on bottom) sliding brackets?
> 
> 
> 
> I am actually using all four. I will pull down the screen and remove the bottom two brackets. Thanks for the suggestion!
Click to expand...

No problem, report back how it works







my thought is it would be nearly impossible to space out the 4 screws so that all 4 have equal tension, so you probably have 1 on there that isn't carrying a load, and rattling in the track. As long as you hit studs with the top 2 screws, there's PLENTY of support for the weight of your screen. The one thing I did do though is leave the bottom brackets in the track so that the screen doesn't sag against the wall and "tilt" a bit (they are there just as spacers to match the top bracket gap), but even then, the weight of the screen should hold them in place to not rattle. 

Joe


----------



## Patriot666

Yeah getting the 4 mounting screws all lined up perfectly didn't end up perfect at all for me. Next time I guess I'll just use the top two mounting screws.


----------



## Fleat

Patriot666 said:


> Yeah getting the 4 mounting screws all lined up perfectly didn't end up perfect at all for me. Next time I guess I'll just use the top two mounting screws.


I actually feel like I managed to get the 4 mounting screws all pretty snug and tightly mounted, but I still think Jbed27's suggestion was solid. I am hoping that resolves the issues I am having. I should have time this weekend to pull it down and remove those bottom two brackets. I think I will just use the foam tape as the distance buffer between the wall and the frame on the bottom and opt not to leave those two in there.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Fleat said:


> I should have time this weekend to pull it down and remove those bottom two brackets. I think I will just use the foam tape as the distance buffer between the wall and the frame on the bottom and opt not to leave those two in there.


Can you tell if the rattling noise comes from the (potentially) loose brackets, or from the frame resonating against the wall? If the latter, removing the lower brackets may not help, and may even make the rattling worse.


----------



## Fleat

Dominic Chan said:


> Can you tell if the rattling noise comes from the (potentially) loose brackets, or from the frame resonating against the wall? If the latter, removing the lower brackets may not help, and may even make the rattling worse.


It is very hard to tell, but it does seem to be coming from the brackets at this point. If removing the lower brackets doesn't work, I will try to brainstorm up some other fixes before I throw in the towel on it.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Fleat said:


> It is very hard to tell, but it does seem to be coming from the brackets at this point. If removing the lower brackets doesn't work, I will try to brainstorm up some other fixes before I throw in the towel on it.


You can probably just tape them in place. Removing them involves disassembling part of the frame which is a fair amount of work.


----------



## Patriot666

Dominic Chan said:


> You can probably just tape them in place. Removing them involves disassembling part of the frame which is a fair amount of work.


Mine is currently disassembled due to our move. I'll have to consider whether or not to leave the bottom brackets in or not. Though I didn't have any issues with vibration noise with my old setup. Not noticeably anyways.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Patriot666 said:


> Mine is currently disassembled due to our move. I'll have to consider whether or not to leave the bottom brackets in or not. Though I didn't have any issues with vibration noise with my old setup. Not noticeably anyways.


My suggestion was specific to Fleat's situation, didn't mean it to be general.


----------



## Patriot666

Dominic Chan said:


> My suggestion was specific to Fleat's situation, didn't mean it to be general.




Oh ok.


----------



## mhconley

I contacted Silver Screen on Friday for an update on my replacement Silver ALR screen and am very happy with their response. They said they are "specially coating and checking a screen for you to ensure that there are no flaws." Now I'm really looking forward to receiving the new screen. Hoping the third times a charm. I love the screen's ALR properties, overall brightness and lack of hot spots. If they can create one with no blotchiness then they have a real winner, especially considering the price.

Martin


----------



## Fleat

Dominic Chan said:


> You can probably just tape them in place. Removing them involves disassembling part of the frame which is a fair amount of work.


I opted to remove the brackets which is fairly easy to do. You can just pop the screen off the tabs near the corner, loosen the four bolts and slide the brackets out.

In the end, I left the bottom brackets off and shimmed the bottom with foam tape to make it even with the bracketed top. I also ended up putting some thinner foam tape on the center support bar, because that seemed to be making noise against the wall.

I think the results are a bit better at this point, but I will be looking at modifying this entire mounting system in the future if I keep it. I am tempted to sell the screen on Craigslist (if possible) and try something else. The GooToob certainly looks interesting and would be rattle free.


----------



## Jbed27

Fleat said:


> Dominic Chan said:
> 
> 
> 
> You can probably just tape them in place. Removing them involves disassembling part of the frame which is a fair amount of work.
> 
> 
> 
> I opted to remove the brackets which is fairly easy to do. You can just pop the screen off the tabs near the corner, loosen the four bolts and slide the brackets out.
> 
> In the end, I left the bottom brackets off and shimmed the bottom with foam tape to make it even with the bracketed top. I also ended up putting some thinner foam tape on the center support bar, because that seemed to be making noise against the wall.
> 
> I think the results are a bit better at this point, but I will be looking at modifying this entire mounting system in the future if I keep it. I am tempted to sell the screen on Craigslist (if possible) and try something else. The GooToob certainly looks interesting and would be rattle free.
Click to expand...

That's too bad that you can still hear something. I can't think of anything else that would rattle, thinking back to when I assembled mine.


----------



## Patriot666

FYI these disassemble and reassemble pretty easily. I just moved and rebuilt mine and it's like new. I was very concerned, just thought I'd share. I also opted to only use the top mounting screws this time.


----------



## smokeyla1

Wonder if you guys can help make my decision. I am debating either STR-169150-G or the STR-169135-G with my main concern being that when I tried my brand new Epson 5030ub on the tan wall in the basement, with lights off it looked amazing at 165". Was actually a little too big and was 1"-2" onto the ceiling but it's where I set it up just to see what it looked like...anyway when I turned the recessed lights on in that area, the image almost completely disappeared, even dimmed it was barely seen on the wall and unwatchable. Now this is my first experience with any projector so is this to be expected? Was it due to the "screen size" being too big, projector too far away? If so would a screen size of 135" be less likely to wash out than say the 150"? 

BTW the couch is 13' from the wall that will hold the screen.

While the is no windows in the basement and that would be fine for movies, I plan on adding a bar to the area and don't think watching say a football game while sitting at the bar would be done with lights out. I'll add a few pictures of area for reference as well and appreciate any feedback.


----------



## Dominic Chan

smokeyla1 said:


> While the is no windows in the basement and that would be fine for movies, I plan on adding a bar to the area and don't think watching say a football game while sitting at the bar would be done with lights out.


In setups like this you may be better off with a brighter projector such as the Epson 1440. The 5030UB's Ultra Black won't provide much advantage over the cheaper projectors.


----------



## HoosierFan

For those of you that didn't use the provided hanging brackets...

I am only planning on hanging from brackets on top since I am just using a minimalist screen frame. If I use the included brackets, the screen is an additional inch out from the wall at the top and would angle back and rest against the wall at the bottom. I could add some blocking so it would be more straight, but it would still be further out than I like. The screens I am going to build to cover the rest of the frame are only 5/4" deep. I was hoping for more a flush mount.

I was looking at some z-clips online and I thought others used those to hang their screen, but wanted to make sure it would be compatible with the ST screen, and if anyone else had used them.

Any advice?


----------



## Dominic Chan

HoosierFan said:


> If I use the included brackets, the screen is an additional inch out from the wall at the top and would angle back and rest against the wall at the bottom.


I don't quite get what you mean. The frame hangs flush against the wall with the included brackets; it should not stick out "an additional inch".


----------



## HoosierFan

Dominic Chan said:


> I don't quite get what you mean. The frame hangs flush against the wall with the included brackets; it should not stick out "an additional inch".


The bracket that is attached to the screen wall is angled out about 1-1/4" and just fits under the first 1/8" of the screen frame. If I would use the bottom brackets, the screen would rest on top of those, and they are about 1-1/4" deep.

I think I am just going to go ahead an use the included bracket and bump out my side panels so that their flush with the screen.


----------



## Dominic Chan

mhconley said:


> I contacted Silver Screen on Friday for an update on my replacement Silver ALR screen and am very happy with their response. They said they are "specially coating and checking a screen for you to ensure that there are no flaws." Now I'm really looking forward to receiving the new screen. Hoping the third times a charm.


Just wondering if the third screen fixed the previous issues.


----------



## Viche

Strongly considering getting a Silver Ticket screen. What do you guys make of the claims of textureless screen manufacturers...the idea that higher resolution sources (4k, but even 1080p) throw pixels small enough that the texture in screens like Silver Ticket reduces visible sharpness/detail and introduces noise?

Infographic explaining how the texture interacts with the pixels:
https://www.projectorscreen.com/blog...aces-Explained


----------



## Dominic Chan

Viche said:


> Strongly considering getting a Silver Ticket screen. What do you guys make of the claims of textureless screen manufacturers...the idea that higher resolution sources (4k, but even 1080p) throw pixels small enough that the texture in screens like Silver Ticket reduces visible sharpness/detail and introduces noise?


The texture of my Silver Ticket matte white was extremely fine, about 1/6mm in pitch:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/2352489-screen-recommendations-wanted.html#post42100625

However, the picture that was on their website showed a coarser, pebbly pattern, looks nothing like mine.

Their 1.3 gain screen material is even finer, but last I check, it's only available in raw material (without the pockets).


----------



## Viche

Dominic Chan said:


> The texture of my Silver Ticket matte white was extremely fine, about 1/6mm in pitch:
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/2352489-screen-recommendations-wanted.html#post42100625
> 
> However, the picture that was on their website showed a coarser, pebbly pattern, looks nothing like mine.
> 
> Their 1.3 gain screen material is even finer, but last I check, it's only available in raw material (without the pockets).


Oh wow, that really is fine! Maybe this is part of their whole "4k" branding that they are using. Isn't that a relatively new marketing term for them?

Anyway, I just sent them an email asking about the texture. I'll post what I find out. Thanks for sharing the pic.


----------



## Dave in Green

TheWireCutter.com said in its comparison review of projection screens:



> The texture of the screen also impacts how much detail you can see. If a screen’s texture is evident from a usual seating distance, it will alter the image quality and possibly your enjoyment. If the screen material is very fine, then you will not see any texture from a normal viewing distance, so the image appears smooth.


They then named the Silver Ticket "The Best Projector Screen (for most people)," saying "This $200 screen has comparable performance to those costing seven times as much." There was absolutely no hint in the review that the Silver Ticket had anything but a smooth enough texture to properly display 1080p content.


----------



## Jbed27

Viche said:


> Strongly considering getting a Silver Ticket screen. What do you guys make of the claims of textureless screen manufacturers...the idea that higher resolution sources (4k, but even 1080p) throw pixels small enough that the texture in screens like Silver Ticket reduces visible sharpness/detail and introduces noise?
> 
> Infographic explaining how the texture interacts with the pixels:
> https://www.projectorscreen.com/blog...aces-Explained


I agree with Dominic and Dave. I have a silver ticket matte white screen. I assembled a home theater in a basement reno a few months ago, and the wire cutter review was what started my research on this screen. I poured through forums and reviews, and one of my main metrics for purchasing AV or any electronics for that matter, is... When I find something that is difficult to near impossible to find a bad or even mediocre review... That's what I gravitate toward, and that's what I found with my ST research. My ST matte white screen is nowhere near coarse enough to notice anything from a reasonable distance (or even close up for that matter). I love the performance of this screen. I actually struggled with how "cheap" it was price wise compared to the thousands I spent on the rest of my setup, but I couldn't be happier. I highly recommend. 

Joe


----------



## Viche

Dave in Green said:


> TheWireCutter.com said in its comparison review of projection screens:
> 
> They then named the Silver Ticket "The Best Projector Screen (for most people)," saying "This $200 screen has comparable performance to those costing seven times as much." There was absolutely no hint in the review that the Silver Ticket had anything but a smooth enough texture to properly display 1080p content.





Jbed27 said:


> I agree with Dominic and Dave. I have a silver ticket matte white screen. I assembled a home theater in a basement reno a few months ago, and the wire cutter review was what started my research on this screen. I poured through forums and reviews, and one of my main metrics for purchasing AV or any electronics for that matter, is... When I find something that is difficult to near impossible to find a bad or even mediocre review... That's what I gravitate toward, and that's what I found with my ST research. My ST matte white screen is nowhere near coarse enough to notice anything from a reasonable distance (or even close up for that matter). I love the performance of this screen. I actually struggled with how "cheap" it was price wise compared to the thousands I spent on the rest of my setup, but I couldn't be happier. I highly recommend.
> 
> Joe


 Thanks guys. Yeah it's becoming very difficult to think about purchasing any screen other than this one just due to the price/performance ratio. That wire cutter article is where I was sold as well. Is the surface of your screens similar to that of the pic Dominic posted earlier? Any chance either of you can post a macro image of your screen material? 

How do you guys think the matte white material would hold up for 4K sources? Just curious, the price is so cheap that I'm thinking if I ever go 4k, I can re-evaluate then and just buy a new screen if necessary. 

BTW, I got a super prompt response from the silver ticket CSR when I emailed them about surface texture. He was unable to see the close-up photo from these forums on his mobile device (he was away from his work computer), but said he would check it and reply with more pictures of their matte white material. I will post those when I receive them. He also said that the material was rated, tested, and approved for 4k, for whatever that's worth.


----------



## Dave in Green

Viche said:


> ... Is the surface of your screens similar to that of the pic Dominic posted earlier? Any chance either of you can post a macro image of your screen material?
> ...


I don't own a Silver Ticket screen but it's the one I'd buy for my next one based on all the available data.


----------



## Patriot666

I received my 138" AT white screen yesterday...going up this weekend. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bpassman

*Pics of your 138 AT Install?*



Patriot666 said:


> I received my 138" AT white screen yesterday...going up this weekend.
> 
> Hey, I'm considering the 138 or 158 AT, would you mind posting some pics and your thoughts of the build and once it's hung up?


----------



## Patriot666

bpassman said:


> Patriot666 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I received my 138" AT white screen yesterday...going up this weekend.
> 
> Hey, I'm considering the 138 or 158 AT, would you mind posting some pics and your thoughts of the build and once it's hung up?
> 
> 
> 
> I sure will. I debated over the 138 vs 158 obsessively for weeks lol. While the 158 would fit, the decision to go with the 138 was due to the throw distance and brightness of both my current Benq W1070 and my future upgrade, the JVC RS400. The calculators said the JVC would be a bit too dim in 3D mode.
> 
> Now I'll finish my coffee and get to work.
Click to expand...


----------



## bpassman

Sweet! Thanks much, I'm curious about the weave of the fabric and the details on the black back cloth. As for PJ calcs, be sure to checkout Coderguys tool. I have an RS500 and the PJCentral tool was much dimmer than Coderguys.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Patriot666

bpassman said:


> Sweet! Thanks much, I'm curious about the weave of the fabric and the details on the black back cloth. As for PJ calcs, be sure to checkout Coderguys tool. I have an RS500 and the PJCentral tool was much dimmer than Coderguys.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yep, Coderguy's is the one I'm using. I'm hoping it's accurate because it's such an easy calculator to use.


----------



## muzz

Patriot666 said:


> bpassman said:
> 
> 
> 
> I sure will. I debated over the 138 vs 158 obsessively for weeks lol. While the 158 would fit, the decision to go with the 138 was due to the throw distance and brightness of both my current Benq W1070 and my future upgrade, the JVC RS400. The calculators said the JVC would be a bit too dim in 3D mode.
> 
> Now I'll finish my coffee and get to work.
> 
> 
> 
> Don't trust the PC calculator for brightness, it's not accurate( do the X550 and rs400, same PJ, different [URL=http://www.avsforum.com/forum/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=%27s]#'s ).[/URL]
> The RS400 Is pretty bright, unlike most pj's stating huge lumen #'s , but in those modes the picture blows.
> The RS400 is bright and looks great, I have little doubt it'll be fabulous.
> I have the ST 106"AT screen, Frame is solid, and I have no issue with the screen at all.
Click to expand...


----------



## ahmedreda

158" 2.35:1 is equivalent to 167" 16:9. I agree it may be a little too big for the RS400. I am using the same projector with a 155" 16:9 and I find it plenty bright with 2D and 3D. 2D I can even use the low power mode. This is with a brand new bulb. Can you do something in the middle? 148"??



Patriot666 said:


> bpassman said:
> 
> 
> 
> I sure will. I debated over the 138 vs 158 obsessively for weeks lol. While the 158 would fit, the decision to go with the 138 was due to the throw distance and brightness of both my current Benq W1070 and my future upgrade, the JVC RS400. The calculators said the JVC would be a bit too dim in 3D mode.
> 
> Now I'll finish my coffee and get to work.
Click to expand...


----------



## Patriot666

ahmedreda said:


> 158" 2.35:1 is equivalent to 167" 16:9. I agree it may be a little too big for the RS400. I am using the same projector with a 155" 16:9 and I find it plenty bright with 2D and 3D. 2D I can even use the low power mode. This is with a brand new bulb. Can you do something in the middle? 148"??
> 
> Are you watching 2:35:1 movies with black bars on the top and bottom? I ask because if you fill a 2:35:1 screen the picture ends up much larger than on a 16:9 screen with bars.
> 
> If I put my speakers behind the screen I'll be at around a 11 foot viewing distance. My wife actually prefers the screen a little smaller, so I went with 138". Also I wanted to stick with Silver Ticket and there's no in between sizes 138-158 . I think they are a great value and I'm a repeat customer because of it. Having read about their customer service response with other members here and that they are on Amazon Prime makes ST a no brainer IMO.
> 
> I'm using a Lumagen Mini3D for 2:35:1 CIH in fixed zoom mode. This has me zoom my W1070 to fill the 2:35:1 screen with the black bars spilling over the top and bottom, so my 138" actually equals a 146" 16:9 screen (if I've figured it out correctly), so I have to use that for my brightness calculations.
> 
> I built and painted my screen frame yesterday. I'll be building and putting the screen up today!


----------



## Viche

Patriot666 said:


> Yep, Coderguy's is the one I'm using. I'm hoping it's accurate because it's such an easy calculator to use.


Does Coderguy have a website? Found his thread. Can't find his calculators.


----------



## Viche

Just got a response from Silver Ticket with macro photos of their screen materials. Waiting for permission to post them. 

Their photos look a lot different from what Dominic posted here: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/2352489-screen-recommendations-wanted.html#post42100625
I have to say the texture on Dominic's screen is much more appealing.
Waiting for a response from Silver Ticket about the difference.


----------



## bpassman

*ST138=142" Diag and ST158=158" Diag?*

Ok, so while I ponder over the ST138 vs ST158, I looked up their dimensions and plugged them into the PC calculator. Seems like the ST138 = 142" diag and the ST158 = 158" diag. Could this naming convention be right?


----------



## Viche

So Silver Ticket said:
If that really is our screen (which I have my doubts), then it's a really really old one. We send the same materials everywhere, whether from the Amazon warehouses or our warehouse here in AZ. If the screen that he has is ours, it may be super old. We have improved our material little by little whenever we see there can be an improvement made. 

Here are the pics for comparison. First Dominic's and then Silver Ticket's images of the matte white.


----------



## Jbed27

Viche said:


> So Silver Ticket said:
> If that really is our screen (which I have my doubts), then it's a really really old one. We send the same materials everywhere, whether from the Amazon warehouses or our warehouse here in AZ. If the screen that he has is ours, it may be super old. We have improved our material little by little whenever we see there can be an improvement made.
> 
> Here are the pics for comparison. First Dominic's and then Silver Ticket's images of the matte white.


I purchased a 110" matte white from ST in November, and I can confirm without a doubt that mine looks exactly like the pic silver ticket sent you. I love the PQ, the texture is not noticeable at all during playback.

Joe


----------



## Viche

Jbed27 said:


> I purchased a 110" matte white from ST in November, and I can confirm without a doubt that mine looks exactly like the pic silver ticket sent you. I love the PQ, the texture is not noticeable at all during playback.
> 
> Joe


Seems shiny (vs matte of dominic's screen). Does it suffer any hotspotting?


----------



## Dominic Chan

Viche said:


> Just got a response from Silver Ticket with macro photos of their screen materials. Waiting for permission to post them.
> 
> Their photos look a lot different from what Dominic posted here: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/2352489-screen-recommendations-wanted.html#post42100625
> I have to say the texture on Dominic's screen is much more appealing.
> Waiting for a response from Silver Ticket about the difference.


My screen was ordered on May 12, 2015. I placed the order directly with Silver Ticket, but they actually used Amazon to process the order.

In January this year I already questioned them about the differences between the pattern of my screen as compared to the pictures posted on their website (which are no longer there for the last few months), but they simply attributed it to "batch-to-batch variations" which is not very convincing as the patterns look totally different as if manufactured using two completely different processes.


----------



## Viche

Dominic Chan said:


> My screen was ordered on May 12, 2015. I placed the order directly with Silver Ticket, but they actually used Amazon to process the order.
> 
> I have already questioned them about the significant differences between the pattern of my screen as compared to the pictures posted on their website (which are no longer there for the last few months), but they simply attributed it to "batch-to-batch variations" which is not very convincing.


Weird. I wouldn't be satisfied with that answer. You should ask them to send you a large piece of sample material so that you can compare the two. If the new material is better, ask for a replacement, and let us know!


----------



## Dominic Chan

Viche said:


> Weird. I wouldn't be satisfied with that answer. You should ask them to send you a large piece of sample material so that you can compare the two. If the new material is better, ask for a replacement, and let us know!


Since I prefer the fine pattern of my screen over the pebbly texture of the posted pictures, I did not pursue it further.

In addition, I have now switched to their 1.3 gain matte white raw material which is even finer than the picture I posted.


----------



## Viche

Dominic Chan said:


> Since I prefer the fine pattern of my screen over the pebbly texture of the posted pictures, I did not pursue it further.
> 
> In addition, I have now switched to their 1.3 gain matte white raw material which is even finer than the picture I posted.


post a pic man!


----------



## Jbed27

Viche said:


> Jbed27 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I purchased a 110" matte white from ST in November, and I can confirm without a doubt that mine looks exactly like the pic silver ticket sent you. I love the PQ, the texture is not noticeable at all during playback.
> 
> Joe
> 
> 
> 
> Seems shiny (vs matte of dominic's screen). Does it suffer any hotspotting?
Click to expand...


I haven't noticed any hotspotting at all. I use an HW55ES on high lamp mode, and I project from the minimum throw distance (if I remember correctly about 12.5 feet). I've never had a projection setup prior to my new home theater, but I know what hotspotting is and if it's there, it's so minor that I cannot detect it, and I looked hard for it in the first couple weeks I set my system up.


----------



## Patriot666

Viche said:


> Does Coderguy have a website? Found his thread. Can't find his calculators.


http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...preview-release-web-projector-calculator.html


----------



## ahmedreda

No, I use masking Panels. I am planning to use 4 way masking to allow me to display 16:9 larger than 2.35 in case of IMAX movies and smaller with regular 1.85:1 movies.
1.38 seems like a perfect size if don't like your picture to be big. 158" will definitely be big.

You will be in for a treat once you switch to the RS400. I tried the Benq 1075HT and I could not stand it even when compared to my older Benq W6000.



Patriot666 said:


> Are you watching 2:35:1 movies with black bars on the top and bottom? I ask because if you fill a 2:35:1 screen the picture ends up much larger than on a 16:9 screen with bars.
> 
> If I put my speakers behind the screen I'll be at around a 11 foot viewing distance. My wife actually prefers the screen a little smaller, so I went with 138". Also I wanted to stick with Silver Ticket and there's no in between sizes 138-158 . I think they are a great value and I'm a repeat customer because of it. Having read about their customer service response with other members here and that they are on Amazon Prime makes ST a no brainer IMO.
> 
> I'm using a Lumagen Mini3D for 2:35:1 CIH in fixed zoom mode. This has me zoom my W1070 to fill the 2:35:1 screen with the black bars spilling over the top and bottom, so my 138" actually equals a 146" 16:9 screen (if I've figured it out correctly), so I have to use that for my brightness calculations.
> 
> I built and painted my screen frame yesterday. I'll be building and putting the screen up today!


----------



## Dominic Chan

Viche said:


> post a pic man!


Here's a close-up picture of the Silver Ticket 1.3 Gain screen material.


----------



## Viche

Dominic Chan said:


> Here's a close-up picture of the Silver Ticket 1.3 Gain screen material.


Ooooooo so smoooooooooth. 

I've sent an email to Silver Ticket asking if they plan to release the matte white in a surface similar to the 1.3 any time in the future...stating that I would be willing to pay more for it.


----------



## Viche

Got a super quick reply back again...he attributed Dominc's screen texture to Amazon shipping an older box at the bottom of the pile in their warehouse for what that's worth.

Regarding 1.3 material he said...
I wish we could use that material! You're right, it's the good stuff. It's USA-made, thick and 1.3 vinyl. We only get it in 62"-wide rolls. We sell it as raw material but we don't have the means to make any custom screen of that material. 


Darn


----------



## bpassman

Patriot666 said:


> bpassman said:
> 
> 
> 
> I sure will. I debated over the 138 vs 158 obsessively for weeks lol. While the 158 would fit, the decision to go with the 138 was due to the throw distance and brightness of both my current Benq W1070 and my future upgrade, the JVC RS400. The calculators said the JVC would be a bit too dim in 3D mode.
> 
> Now I'll finish my coffee and get to work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Viche said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just got a response from Silver Ticket with macro photos of their screen materials. Waiting for permission to post them.
> 
> Their photos look a lot different from what Dominic posted here: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/2352489-screen-recommendations-wanted.html#post42100625
> I have to say the texture on Dominic's screen is much more appealing.
> Waiting for a response from Silver Ticket about the difference.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Poke! Assume you're watching movies on the new screen. ☺ did you get a chance to take pics of the assembly?
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


----------



## Dominic Chan

Viche said:


> Regarding 1.3 material he said...
> I wish we could use that material! You're right, it's the good stuff. It's USA-made, thick and 1.3 vinyl. We only get it in 62"-wide rolls. We sell it as raw material but we don't have the means to make any custom screen of that material.


It's not difficult to make pockets to hang the raw material on a frame. However, the 62" width means the size would be limited to about 140" diagonal for a 2.35:1 screen.


----------



## Shift

I just assembled (again) my 120" AT silver ticket (2nd time due to moving and purchasing new house) . 

When I had it assembled @ my old place one big weakness was the tension springs it came with. Not that the issue was not keeping the screen material tight, but the tension springs vibrated against the aluminum frame due to deep low frequency bass scenes. 

So I called SilverTicket and mentioned it and they sent me shorter and more tension springs. This will remedy the rattle / vibrating issues I had w/ the original tension springs. 

So if you are getting a fixed SilverTicket screen and enjoy heavy bass from your subs, it might be ideal to contact SilverTicket customer service and request for the shorter / tighter tension springs to be put inside the box before shipping  . They didn't charge me.

Here is the difference between to two type of springs. The shorter ones are more tight tensioned. 




As for my screen, I have yet to hang it / mount / install it, but I did assemble it and about to take down all of my audio equipment / 70" LED.

Luckily I have 12' ceilings, so the screen will be a nice touch to our living room. I am also mounting a TV lift motor behind my audio stand that will lift my LED on none movie or PJ nights


----------



## shete.prakash

Shift said:


> I just assembled (again) my 120" AT silver ticket (2nd time due to moving and purchasing new house) .
> 
> When I had it assembled @ my old place one big weakness was the tension springs it came with. Not that the issue was not keeping the screen material tight, but the tension springs vibrated against the aluminum frame due to deep low frequency bass scenes.
> 
> So I called SilverTicket and mentioned it and they sent me shorter and more tension springs. This will remedy the rattle / vibrating issues I had w/ the original tension springs.
> 
> So if you are getting a fixed SilverTicket screen and enjoy heavy bass from your subs, it might be ideal to contact SilverTicket customer service and request for the shorter / tighter tension springs to be put inside the box before shipping  . They didn't charge me.
> 
> Here is the difference between to two type of springs. The shorter ones are more tight tensioned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for my screen, I have yet to hang it / mount / install it, but I did assemble it and about to take down all of my audio equipment / 70" LED.
> 
> Luckily I have 12' ceilings, so the screen will be a nice touch to our living room. I am also mounting a TV lift motor behind my audio stand that will lift my LED on none movie or PJ nights


Which number did you call Silver Ticket Support at, can you please share ?
Cheers

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


----------



## Shift

shete.prakash said:


> Which number did you call Silver Ticket Support at, can you please share ?
> Cheers
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


Honestly, I cannot remember the phone number since I owned this screen for almost 10 months now and was kept in storage for 6 of the months I owned it. 

I do think it was through Amazon.com in which is where I purchased it. 

I did go online directly to SilverTicket website and it shows a e-mail that you can get in reach of someone.
The E-mail address is: [email protected]

Shown here: http://silverticketproducts.com/support/

Good luck


----------



## bscool

Fleat said:


> I ordered the 120" white screen (STR-169120) a month ago and have been using it for a few weeks now. The quality of the image on this screen is great, but the mounting system is frustrating at best.
> 
> I have a JTR Captivator subwoofer, and it rattles the screen brackets horribly bad. I have tried mounting the screws further into the wall or further away. At this point, I have the entire cross brace and the four corners covered in 3/4" foam tape which helped to eliminate some of the rattles.
> 
> I think the rest of the rattles are just coming from the poor mounting bracket setup and the way it attaches to the screen. They just rattle inside of the channel they slide into causing the entire frame of the screen to resonate.
> 
> My EliteScreen before this did not have any of these issues. Anyone have any recommendations for an alternate mounting approach?


I used sticky tac around all the mounts and it quieted them all. I work it in and around the brackets and the frame and also put it between the brackets and the wall and any other high spots on the back of the frame that touched the wall.

But the screen still flutters with heavy bass but no noise.


----------



## bscool

HoosierFan said:


> For those of you that didn't use the provided hanging brackets...
> 
> I am only planning on hanging from brackets on top since I am just using a minimalist screen frame. If I use the included brackets, the screen is an additional inch out from the wall at the top and would angle back and rest against the wall at the bottom. I could add some blocking so it would be more straight, but it would still be further out than I like. The screens I am going to build to cover the rest of the frame are only 5/4" deep. I was hoping for more a flush mount.
> 
> I was looking at some z-clips online and I thought others used those to hang their screen, but wanted to make sure it would be compatible with the ST screen, and if anyone else had used them.
> 
> Any advice?


I just used the couple of extra plastic pegs they included for connecting the screen and then put them in the bottom bracket holes using sticky take, I put them in after the screen is hung. Put the flat part into the lower bracket mounts and the pointier side will stick out towards the wall and get it really close. You can fine tune and adjust them sliding them from left to right because most walls are not perfectly flat.

It will also depend how you have your top ones mounted. Meaning if you have a big gap in your screw heads and the wall and the upper brackets are slide way out towards the screw head you will need to slide them back towards the wall, preferably not having the screw heads sticking that far out from the wall. I would say you want to get them were the gap from the screw head and the wall is around 1/4" or less. Makes it harder or get on but it will stay lined up better in my experience. Could try a glob of stick tac up in each upper corner and maybe the middle and that probably hold it snug to the wall to. That sticky tac is actually some pretty good stuff


----------



## bscool

Shift said:


> I just assembled (again) my 120" AT silver ticket (2nd time due to moving and purchasing new house) .
> 
> When I had it assembled @ my old place one big weakness was the tension springs it came with. Not that the issue was not keeping the screen material tight, but the tension springs vibrated against the aluminum frame due to deep low frequency bass scenes.
> 
> So I called SilverTicket and mentioned it and they sent me shorter and more tension springs. This will remedy the rattle / vibrating issues I had w/ the original tension springs.
> 
> So if you are getting a fixed SilverTicket screen and enjoy heavy bass from your subs, it might be ideal to contact SilverTicket customer service and request for the shorter / tighter tension springs to be put inside the box before shipping  . They didn't charge me.
> 
> Here is the difference between to two type of springs. The shorter ones are more tight tensioned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for my screen, I have yet to hang it / mount / install it, but I did assemble it and about to take down all of my audio equipment / 70" LED.
> 
> Luckily I have 12' ceilings, so the screen will be a nice touch to our living room. I am also mounting a TV lift motor behind my audio stand that will lift my LED on none movie or PJ nights


When did you buy your screen? I just bought one a few months ago and mine has springs, it just stretches directly to the little plastic holders you put in the aluminum frame. Even in this video from 3 years ago uses the same method mine does that I bought a few months ago.


----------



## Dominic Chan

bscool said:


> When did you buy your screen? I just bought one a few months ago and mine has springs, it just stretches directly to the little plastic holders you put in the aluminum frame.


The tensions springs are only used with screens that come with the wider 3 1/4" frames, e.g., the woven acoustic screens, and the curved screens. Most of the Silver Ticket screens come with the 2 3/8" frames and do not use the tension springs.


----------



## Shift

Dominic Chan said:


> The tensions springs are only used with screens that come with the wider 3 1/4" frames, e.g., the woven acoustic screens, and the curved screens. Most of the Silver Ticket screens come with the 2 3/8" frames and do not use the tension springs.



That makes sense on why I had the issue w/ the silver springs that came w/ mine. Keep in mind that it worked and I would of never known any issues, but that rattle that was coming from the springs rubbing against the frame really annoyed me and since watching lots of movies w/ high output of bass (at the time), this was the remedy from Silver Ticket.
.... and yes mine is the AT screen.


----------



## Krob3

Shift said:


> I just assembled (again) my 120" AT silver ticket (2nd time due to moving and purchasing new house) .
> 
> When I had it assembled @ my old place one big weakness was the tension springs it came with. Not that the issue was not keeping the screen material tight, but the tension springs vibrated against the aluminum frame due to deep low frequency bass scenes.
> 
> So I called SilverTicket and mentioned it and they sent me shorter and more tension springs. This will remedy the rattle / vibrating issues I had w/ the original tension springs.
> 
> So if you are getting a fixed SilverTicket screen and enjoy heavy bass from your subs, it might be ideal to contact SilverTicket customer service and request for the shorter / tighter tension springs to be put inside the box before shipping  . They didn't charge me.
> 
> Here is the difference between to two type of springs. The shorter ones are more tight tensioned.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for my screen, I have yet to hang it / mount / install it, but I did assemble it and about to take down all of my audio equipment / 70" LED.
> 
> Luckily I have 12' ceilings, so the screen will be a nice touch to our living room. I am also mounting a TV lift motor behind my audio stand that will lift my LED on none movie or PJ nights


How easy/difficult is it to hang the Silver Ticket screens? Is it like hanging a really big, heavy picture?


----------



## Dominic Chan

Krob3 said:


> How easy/difficult is it to hang the Silver Ticket screens? Is it like hanging a really big, heavy picture?


There are 4 keyhole brackets, 2 on top and 2 on the bottom. Some people do not even use the bottom brackets.
The brackets can slide along the frame, so the horizontal spacing is not critical. The vertical position of the anchors has to be exactly right or else the frame will not be level.


----------



## Krob3

Dominic Chan said:


> There are 4 keyhole brackets, 2 on top and 2 on the bottom. Some people do not even use the bottom brackets.
> The brackets can slide along the frame, so the horizontal spacing is not critical. The vertical position of the anchors has to be exactly right or else the frame will not be level.


Thank you! And I'm guessing you need to mount on studs or very solid drywall screws?

Is there some flexibility in the horizontal mount to allow the screen to hang on studs?


----------



## Dominic Chan

Krob3 said:


> Thank you! And I'm guessing you need to mount on studs or very solid drywall screws?
> 
> Is there some flexibility in the horizontal mount to allow the screen to hang on studs?


As mentioned previously, the brackets can slide horizontally so you can line them up with wall studs.


----------



## Krob3

Dominic Chan said:


> As mentioned previously, the brackets can slide horizontally so you can line them up with wall studs.


Thank you! I misread your post and was thinking the whole screen would move horizontally, not just the actual brackets. 

That makes hanging much easier - simply attach screws into studs and move brackets wherever they need to go!


----------



## Patriot666

bpassman said:


> Patriot666 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Poke! Assume you're watching movies on the new screen. ☺ did you get a chance to take pics of the assembly?
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about not getting back to you sooner. I've been working constantly getting the theater built. Here's a couple pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to get a replacement due to missing parts and a stripped hole in one of the brackets. The replacement screen was also missing the same rods that go in the screen edges. Both screens have the wrinkles along the edges...which I'm not happy about. I'll probably take this one down and send it back for the second time. Hours of work wasted. The picture looks good, but the wrinkles really bother me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


----------



## Dominic Chan

Patriot666 said:


> Both screens have the wrinkles along the edges...which I'm not happy about.


You may be able to remove the wrinkle by repositioning the plastic lugs. Line them up with the holes on the screen material, not with the marked positions on the frame.


----------



## Patriot666

Dominic Chan said:


> You may be able to remove the wrinkle by repositioning the plastic lugs. Line them up with the holes on the screen material, not with the marked positions on the frame.


This screen doesn't use the plastic lugs, like my 92'' did. This uses springs that attach from the frame to the rods that go through the screen edge pockets. All the springs were carefully centered and there's still wrinkles. I'm going to return this one while I still can.


----------



## Shift

Dominic Chan said:


> There are 4 keyhole brackets, 2 on top and 2 on the bottom. Some people do not even use the bottom brackets.
> The brackets can slide along the frame, so the horizontal spacing is not critical. The vertical position of the anchors has to be exactly right or else the frame will not be level.


Not hard. I do think you should have at least two folks to put it on the wall and center / align the frame to where you exactly want it and have a 3rd person mark where you want to drill your holes.

Here is the L- brackets and the wood beam that is vertical adjust / align where you want to screen.

The parts that came w/ mine did come would plastic anchors w/ screws to use just incase there in no stud in the area where it needs mounted.

Its not hard at all, even a caveman can do it 

Forgive me as I had to leave the frame in my daughters room due temporarily to keep it away from my on-year old. 





 

The L-brackets that is adjustable one how far you want it away or close to the wall as possible.





Hole where you want put the screen to mount the screen on the wall. There is total of 4- but you can make as much as you like if you don't feel that 4 holes that are there is not enough. lol



Another bracket shot:


----------



## Krob3

Shift said:


> Not hard. I do think you should have at least two folks to put it on the wall and center / align the frame to where you exactly want it and have a 3rd person mark where you want to drill your holes.
> 
> Here is the L- brackets and the wood beam that is vertical adjust / align where you want to screen.
> 
> The parts that came w/ mine did come would plastic anchors w/ screws to use just incase there in no stud in the area where it needs mounted.
> 
> Its not hard at all, even a caveman can do it
> 
> Forgive me as I had to leave the frame in my daughters room due temporarily to keep it away from my on-year old.
> 
> 
> The L-brackets that is adjustable one how far you want it away or close to the wall as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> Hole where you want put the screen to mount the screen on the wall. There is total of 4- but you can make as much as you like if you don't feel that 4 holes that are there is not enough. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you! I didnt realize there was so much flexibility in hanging the screen. I like the idea that you can also decide how close or far to mount from wall.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Patriot666 said:


> This screen doesn't use the plastic lugs, like my 92'' did. This uses springs that attach from the frame to the rods that go through the screen edge pockets. All the springs were carefully centered and there's still wrinkles. I'm going to return this one while I still can.


Are you using the longer or the shorter springs? I seem to remember someone saying the short springs (with higher tension) solved that problem, as well as the rattling issue.


----------



## Patriot666

Dominic Chan said:


> Are you using the longer or the shorter springs? I seem to remember someone saying the short springs (with higher tension) solved that problem, as well as the rattling issue.


I used the longer springs on the first screen, shorter springs on the second, still had wrinkles on the sides. Maybe they'll be gone by the time I get home tonight...


----------



## bpassman

*ST Quality Control*



Patriot666 said:


> Sorry about not getting back to you sooner. I've been working constantly getting the theater built.


Wow, very sorry to hear about those issues and that you're on the 2nd screen and still have issues. I know that ST is a budget screen, but I think they should improve their Quality Control given the number of issues in this tread for the screen materials and missing parts. 

Also, I really appreciate the posted pics of the frame and AT material. While you fight those wrinkles, I was hoping you could weigh in on the following:

It looks as though the aluminum frame and velvet wrap is as nice as most. Would you agree?

Are you happy with the painted wooden wall bars? Your post on mounting makes sense, but seems there could be a better mounting method.

The AT fabric seems to have a lot of texture, do you notice it when your PJ is on?

The AT screen seems really transparent and the support bars, your rack and even your arms are visible; isn't there a black backing cloth?

If the wrinkles are gone when you get home, will you get a 3rd screen or try a different brand?

Thanks in advance! I have a feeling your answers good/bad may result in me doing another DIY using spandex.


----------



## Patriot666

bpassman said:


> Wow, very sorry to hear about those issues and that you're on the 2nd screen and still have issues. I know that ST is a budget screen, but I think they should improve their Quality Control given the number of issues in this tread for the screen materials and missing parts.
> 
> Also, I really appreciate the posted pics of the frame and AT material. While you fight those wrinkles, I was hoping you could weigh in on the following:
> 
> It looks as though the aluminum frame and velvet wrap is as nice as most. Would you agree?
> 
> Are you happy with the painted wooden wall bars? Your post on mounting makes sense, but seems there could be a better mounting method.
> 
> The AT fabric seems to have a lot of texture, do you notice it when your PJ is on?
> 
> The AT screen seems really transparent and the support bars, your rack and even your arms are visible; isn't there a black backing cloth?
> 
> If the wrinkles are gone when you get home, will you get a 3rd screen or try a different brand?
> 
> Thanks in advance! I have a feeling your answers good/bad may result in me doing another DIY using spandex.


The frame and wrap are a nice quality, no complaints.

I am going to build a new frame for the screen. I'm not happy with my first attempt, but the flat black painted wood does not show through. I blacked out completely behind the screen with black velvet. Without it the picture showed on the wall behind the screen. 

The weave was visible at 11 feet on certain scenes. Mainly when it's just words on the screen, like in the opening warnings of discs when it's white words on a black background.

It's mainly the wrinkles I'm not happy with, but I am probably going to return it. I'm pretty sure I'm going to shell out the bucks for a Falcon Horizon for a tighter weave/better picture.


----------



## bpassman

*Passing on the ST*



Patriot666 said:


> I'm pretty sure I'm going to shell out the bucks for a Falcon Horizon for a tighter weave/better picture.


Awesome, thanks for the quick replies and thoughts. Think I'll pass on the ST and do another DIY, then like you double down for a Falcon.

Thanks!


----------



## jimmy.le.3388

Hi guys, quick question: i have UST LG PF1000u with 1000 lumens. I have couple of windows that i have shade to control but not fully dark room during day time. This for living room replace with my 4K tv. At night we will watch movie with control light from my smartphone. 

So i just place the order with white material, and i was wonder if grey material is fit in my application vs white.

I do currently have Carl ProGray 0.8 gain and they are stunning at night though but i want something more brightness but doesnt loosing the color. I know grey has more of black level vs white

Here is my current carl progray 0.8 
Silver ticket white is 1.1 gain and grey is 1.0 gain

Been wasting so much money to buy bunch of materials












Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Shift

Hey guys, I have for sale my 120" AT Screen 

if interested, please PM. 


Linky: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/218-d...stic-transparent-woven-acoustic-material.html


----------



## MowTin

jimmy.le.3388 said:


> Hi guys, quick question: i have UST LG PF1000u with 1000 lumens. I have couple of windows that i have shade to control but not fully dark room during day time. This for living room replace with my 4K tv. At night we will watch movie with control light from my smartphone.
> 
> So i just place the order with white material, and i was wonder if grey material is fit in my application vs white.
> 
> I do currently have Carl ProGray 0.8 gain and they are stunning at night though but i want something more brightness but doesnt loosing the color. I know grey has more of black level vs white
> 
> Here is my current carl progray 0.8
> Silver ticket white is 1.1 gain and grey is 1.0 gain
> 
> Been wasting so much money to buy bunch of materials
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I've been wrestling with this same question. What I did was buy the projector first and project on a bare wall under different light conditions. 

I read some threads which suggest that grey will definitely help with ambient light but may not be as bright. My BenQ w1080st has 2200 lumens and looked really bright to me. So, I chose a grey screen because my projector was already plenty bright during low ambient light situations.


----------



## Krob3

MowTin said:


> I've been wrestling with this same question. What I did was buy the projector first and project on a bare wall under different light conditions.
> 
> I read some threads which suggest that grey will definitely help with ambient light but may not be as bright. My BenQ w1080st has 2200 lumens and looked really bright to me. So, I chose a grey screen because my projector was already plenty bright during low ambient light situations.


I had the same questions and concerns. I got a sample pack from Carl's and put 9 different screen types and colors on the wall to compare with my Epson 5025.

In the end, the grey was darker and the colors didn't pop the way I wanted them to so I bought a Silver Ticket 1.1 matte white screen. It was the best choice for my setup, but its a tough choice we all have to make based on our PJ, room conditions, and personal preferences.


----------



## REL77

After reading almost this entire thread, i decided to return my Carls Blackout Cloth, and just ordered the 100" Matte White screen from Amazon for $189 shipped. I am handy, and was all for making my own screen, but after reading all the glowing reviews, and seeing how much the quality would be improved I thought this was the best route. My HT2050 and 100" screen are both on their way from amazon now. Thanks all


----------



## Krob3

REL77 said:


> After reading almost this entire thread, i decided to return my Carls Blackout Cloth, and just ordered the 100" Matte White screen from Amazon for $189 shipped. I am handy, and was all for making my own screen, but after reading all the glowing reviews, and seeing how much the quality would be improved I thought this was the best route. My HT2050 and 100" screen are both on their way from amazon now. Thanks all


Congrats! Keep us posted once the screen arrives and how you like the end result!


----------



## Patriot666

If anyone's interested in a ST grey 92" 16:9 screen PM me.


----------



## REL77

Krob3 said:


> Congrats! Keep us posted once the screen arrives and how you like the end result!


Screen arrived and i built it last night. I am really impressed with how well made it was. Really an ingenious idea. The felt feels and looks great. I am so glad I decided not to do the DIY and just got the 100" Matte White from Amazon. I had no problems whats so ever with the rear brace bar, it slid into place with just a little soft hammering 

I mounted the screen last night, somehow I have a slight 1degree sloping left to right i need to address if it starts to bother me. I think it looks pretty fantastic. Included is one dark shot (my room is small at 13'x14' but even worse is the super white walls all around and a mirror on one side that isn't helping with the AL reflection off the walls, but still super happy. These screens are a steal at their price.


----------



## Krob3

REL77 said:


> Screen arrived and i built it last night. I am really impressed with how well made it was. Really an ingenious idea. The felt feels and looks great. I am so glad I decided not to do the DIY and just got the 100" Matte White from Amazon. I had no problems whats so ever with the rear brace bar, it slid into place with just a little soft hammering
> 
> I mounted the screen last night, somehow I have a slight 1degree sloping left to right i need to address if it starts to bother me. I think it looks pretty fantastic. Included is one dark shot (my room is small at 13'x14' but even worse is the super white walls all around and a mirror on one side that isn't helping with the AL reflection off the walls, but still super happy. These screens are a steal at their price.


That looks awesome! I have the same screen but the 110" version and I love it too.

I considered the DIY route, but for just over $200, this is the perfect solution. I had no issues putting it together, took me about an hour to 90 mins to unbox and hang on the wall.


----------



## wreelsw

mhconley said:


> I contacted Silver Screen on Friday for an update on my replacement Silver ALR screen and am very happy with their response. They said they are "specially coating and checking a screen for you to ensure that there are no flaws." Now I'm really looking forward to receiving the new screen. Hoping the third times a charm. I love the screen's ALR properties, overall brightness and lack of hot spots. If they can create one with no blotchiness then they have a real winner, especially considering the price.
> 
> Martin



Hi mhconley; 

What was the outcome of this third shipment of "specially coating" of the ALR screen material? Did it still have the flaws you mentioned or were they gone?

God bless,

wreels


----------



## scupking

Just got a BenQ ht2050. I can't decide if I should go with a grey or white 92". My room is light controlled but it's all white with light grey carpet and light colored furniture. Right now on the wall I think the image looks very good but I'm sure it will be much better with a screen. I run the projector in Eco mode since it's only 8.5 feet from the wall and I'm sitting only 8 feet from the image. It's plenty bright that's for sure!


----------



## wreelsw

Has anyone used the Fixed Frame Silver Ticket White Material screen for 3D Movies? If so, I would greatly appreciate your feedback. My JVC DLA-X550R is in a room with no windows, with tan paint and white ceilings. I currently have their ALR screen but I'm not sure if I'll ever get used to the graininess of the picture. Again, any feedback is greatly appreciated.

God bless,

Warren


----------



## jw87c

How did you mount the screen in your 2nd photo? Did you use some kind of ground bracket? That looks quite interesting and could you share what you used for mounting? Thanks!



Patriot666 said:


> bpassman said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about not getting back to you sooner. I've been working constantly getting the theater built. Here's a couple pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to get a replacement due to missing parts and a stripped hole in one of the brackets. The replacement screen was also missing the same rods that go in the screen edges. Both screens have the wrinkles along the edges...which I'm not happy about. I'll probably take this one down and send it back for the second time. Hours of work wasted. The picture looks good, but the wrinkles really bother me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


----------



## Patriot666

jw87c said:


> How did you mount the screen in your 2nd photo? Did you use some kind of ground bracket? That looks quite interesting and could you share what you used for mounting? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> I used the two brackets that came with the ST screen on either side of my wooden frame. These:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WormInfested

After discovering Silverticket tonight while trying to figure out what screen to buy, i'm happy with what i'm seeing on these screens. Now it's grey vs white. I have a Benq W7500 but do most of the heavy viewing in the evening. using a white do able board from home depot so i'm sure white would be fine. i'm planning on buying the 110" 16:9 size. Tested out the size on the wall tonight and man it's huge. love the prices on ST. quite affordable for those on a budget. Anyone run a dlp with white?


----------



## em.pi

Hello,

I am trying to decide what material to have for my screen. I don’t have a light controlled room but there isn’t much light coming in during the day (the attached picture is at the worst moment of the day). 

I’ll be using my setup to mainly view TV Shows and Movies, as well as playing with my Xbox, and it might be during the day as well. 

My projector is a Benq HT2050. It is worth saying that it will be a 100" screen and the projector is positioned at 3 meters (117") from the screen (which mean I’m using a 1.1x zoom aprox).

What would you recommend? White, Grey or ALR?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## WormInfested

I ordered the 110" matte white 16:9 screen on Friday on Amazon going through the Silverticket store front. replacing a few years old home depot Do-Able white board that's the equivalent of a 100" 16:9 screen. 22 bucks was well spent and used but it was long overdue to upgrade to an actual screen. i would've went a bit bigger but i bought some bigger floor standing speakers this month so it shrunk my wall real estate by a few inches. 110" screen will be a moderate size upgrade. not sure how much of a picture difference it'll be though. seating distance is around 8 1/2 feet back from the screen. it's been fun going thru this thread and i'll remember the support bar in the back in case it gives me trouble.


----------



## scupking

Just built the 92" white st screen tonight. It was all very easy to do by myself. I was even able to get the support bar in by hand without having to use a hammer. Screen looks good! Can't wait to mount it (just going to use the top 2 mounts). The screen will be 8.5 feet from eye distance.


----------



## blkz06

Is anyone getting the "sparkle effect" with these screens? Seems to be a common complaint on Amazon.


----------



## Dominic Chan

blkz06 said:


> Is anyone getting the "sparkle effect" with these screens? Seems to be a common complaint on Amazon.


I have not seen any complaints regarding "sparkle effect" with the matte white screen. The silver grey screen, on the other hand, indeed has very noticeable sparkles.


----------



## acmeavs

em.pi said:


> What would you recommend? White, Grey or ALR?


Given your room situation, your best bet may be the ALR screen if you plan to watch during the day. Some people complain about the picture quality with ALR screens, but most say the benefits outweigh the PQ concerns. 

I would consider a gray screen if you can block out the light coming from the right side of the picture. Are you able to use black out curtains to block the light?


----------



## acmeavs

WormInfested said:


> I ordered the 110" matte white 16:9 screen on Friday on Amazon going through the Silverticket store front. replacing a few years old home depot Do-Able white board that's the equivalent of a 100" 16:9 screen. 22 bucks was well spent and used but it was long overdue to upgrade to an actual screen. i would've went a bit bigger but i bought some bigger floor standing speakers this month so it shrunk my wall real estate by a few inches. 110" screen will be a moderate size upgrade. not sure how much of a picture difference it'll be though. seating distance is around 8 1/2 feet back from the screen. it's been fun going thru this thread and i'll remember the support bar in the back in case it gives me trouble.





scupking said:


> Just built the 92" white st screen tonight. It was all very easy to do by myself. I was even able to get the support bar in by hand without having to use a hammer. Screen looks good! Can't wait to mount it (just going to use the top 2 mounts). The screen will be 8.5 feet from eye distance.


Congrats to both of you! Silver Ticket has an amazing product for an amazing price. Would love to see some pics and comments of your setup!


----------



## Brian Hampton

I rebuilt my HT earlier this year making it a bit longer so I wanted to bigger screen.

I choose the 110 Silver Ticket (white) screen.

Mostly I love it... there is one spot on the front couch where the angle must be perfect and I see a almost Pixel size reflection of the projector bulb. If I move it can't be seen... it's just one place. It's bright but otherwise looks exactly like a stuck "on" pixel. 

I have 2 couches so it's basically 3 spots in the front and 2 in the back ... but for now I have to try to make sure guests don't take the front left spot. And when my kids noticed I just had to show them how to move a little bit to get out of the path.

I wonder if I could change some angle of the screen or pj and prevent this from happening at all or at least move it to where it's not one of the 5 regular spots where people sit.

Edit - I put in a new bulb today and had to re-install the pj. This problem went away... I'm not sure why... as long as it never comes back, I'm ok with that.


----------



## WormInfested

Finally got the new screen up last night, but unfortunately as i was attempting to hang the beast i dropped one side, hitting a mirror cleat on the way down that i totally missed when taking them off the wall earlier. now i have a hole on the lower left section of the screen. made me so mad at myself for missing something when i took the previous board/screen off. i'm emailing silverticket on it to see what can be done. here are some pics of before and after. awesome screen and quality. they waste no time in shipping these things out either. orderered on a friday and received it on monday. 

i thought about going the 103" 2:35:1 route but the largest 16:9 screen i could squeeze in was pretty much the same width so i went with the best option.

Silverticket 110" matte white 16:9


----------



## shawnny

Hello All,
Installed the Silver Ticket 135" screen on Friday, replacing a 10 year old Vutec Lectric III 133" motorized screen. All I can say is- "WOW!". Didn't realize this screen would make the Colors/ Contrast so impressive, using a BenQ W1070. I wish I had done it sooner. Installation wasn't that complicated, my son helped me hang it up once I put it together. I love how screen is so tight, my older screen had ripples. 

IMO, this screen is fantastic, and the price is unbelievable. For those still deciding, I would say go for it. Attaching some pics, my son does the gaming!


----------



## Patriot666

Value wise a Benq W1070 and Silver Ticket screen combo can't be beat IMO. (Except their acoustic transparent screen. I can't recommend that.)


----------



## sirjaymz

Well, I decided to pull the trigger on the STR-169106 White material screen. After many hours of research, and the incredible amount of positive feedback on /\mazon, realistically, it's only a couple of Benjamin's. and since the new HT is much small than the original one, i figured, whats to lose.

Additional, all the good review points you all have provided here drove me to go for. 
I'm headed out of town for a couple of weeks, but when i get back, I should be able to get to it.

Thanks AVS forums.


----------



## blkz06

I bought a new thin bezel version, 4K ready blah blah. Have to say I'm really impressed.

One thing I would do (I'll preface by saying I'm a commercial/residential builder) for anyone getting one of these screens...get a straightedge/level and a square. Use it when putting together the frame, and then as a final check pull a tape corner to corner to double check squareness. Make sure the screws are tight, then install the screen.


----------



## AMartin56

blkz06 said:


> I bought a new thin bezel version, 4K ready blah blah. Have to say I'm really impressed.
> 
> One thing I would do (I'll preface by saying I'm a commercial/residential builder) for anyone getting one of these screens...get a straightedge/level and a square. Use it when putting together the frame, and then as a final check pull a tape corner to corner to double check squareness. Make sure the screws are tight, then install the screen.


I really like the Silver Ticket screen material. But the frame leaves a little to be desired. I could never get it square. I'd tighten one corner and another would slip. I doubt that's a problem with all of them but that was my experience. I prefer a four piece frame.


----------



## blkz06

AMartin56 said:


> I really like the Silver Ticket screen material. But the frame leaves a little to be desired. I could never get it square. I'd tighten one corner and another would slip. I doubt that's a problem with all of them but that was my experience. I prefer a four piece frame.


Really?

Thats odd, but I'm not sure what version of the screen you have. The one I received has 4 very small L brackets that go up near the 45 mitered edges that really seem to help with any squaw that might happen when tightening the screws. These are in addition to the big L connectors that actually join the frame together.

Like I said, I used a square on each corner when tightening the screws down. Pulling a tape from corner to corner it is dead-nuttz the same measurement.


----------



## busybe

Can someone please confirm if 100" silverticket screen comes with a regular bracket or something like this as mentioned on page 2 by someone ?

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-2.html#post31366369

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=515641&d=1422778039


----------



## AMartin56

blkz06 said:


> Really?
> 
> Thats odd, but I'm not sure what version of the screen you have. The one I received has 4 very small L brackets that go up near the 45 mitered edges that really seem to help with any squaw that might happen when tightening the screws. These are in addition to the big L connectors that actually join the frame together.
> 
> Like I said, I used a square on each corner when tightening the screws down. Pulling a tape from corner to corner it is dead-nuttz the same measurement.


Really.


----------



## blkz06

AMartin56 said:


> Really.


I get it.

But looking at mine I can't see how the frame could get squalled around. Mine is very heavy duty and the small L brackets (which I found in another box and didn't use for the first step of installation) really made a huge difference in the sturdiness of the frame.


----------



## JackB

I'm selling my 106" ST screen because I'm moving. PM me if interested.


----------



## dolphinc

shawnny said:


> Hello All,
> Installed the Silver Ticket 135" screen on Friday, replacing a 10 year old Vutec Lectric III 133" motorized screen. All I can say is- "WOW!". Didn't realize this screen would make the Colors/ Contrast so impressive, using a BenQ W1070. I wish I had done it sooner. Installation wasn't that complicated, my son helped me hang it up once I put it together. I love how screen is so tight, my older screen had ripples.
> 
> IMO, this screen is fantastic, and the price is unbelievable. For those still deciding, I would say go for it. Attaching some pics, my son does the gaming!


I bought the same size screen and can't believe how nice it is for the money. I came from a 106" Da-Lite screen which cost 3x as much. Very happy with the purchase and makes the room look like a real theater.


----------



## scupking

acmeavs said:


> Congrats to both of you! Silver Ticket has an amazing product for an amazing price. Would love to see some pics and comments of your setup!


Didn't want to post anything until I was finished! Love the setup! 92" white st and BenQ ht2050!


----------



## AMartin56

scupking said:


> Didn't want to post anything until I was finished! Love the setup! 92" white st and BenQ ht2050!
> View attachment 1661441
> 
> View attachment 1661449


Congrats. I recognize the living room from other posts. Glad it worked out!


----------



## busybe

Hello ST screen owners

Can you please confirm if I will be able to hang the screen using the hooks and this bracket?

My screen is 100".

http://www.projectorscreenstore.com/Projector-Screen-Accessories/Elite-Screens-6QUOT-X-2-WALLCEILING-HANGING-BRACKET-X-TYPE-Black-ZVMAXLB6-B-40040.html

Thank you


----------



## Dominic Chan

busybe said:


> Hello ST screen owners
> 
> Can you please confirm if I will be able to hang the screen using the hooks and this bracket?


I would use 4 brackets and bolt the frame to the brackets, much more solid than using hooks. 
[EDIT] The above assumes a fixed frame screen. With motorized screens or manual pulldown screens, one would indeed use two brackets and hooks.


----------



## ereed

Loving my 120 inch Silver Ticket white screen! First projector setup ever and I love it! MUCH bigger than my 60 inch plasma that it replaced!


----------



## busybe

Dominic Chan said:


> I would use 4 brackets and bolt the frame to the brackets, much more solid than using hooks.


Thanks! I will have to check what mount comes with the wab screen to see how I can accomplish that..


----------



## rflores2323

ereed said:


> Loving my 120 inch Silver Ticket white screen! First projector setup ever and I love it! MUCH bigger than my 60 inch plasma that it replaced!


What sound system and speakers do you have?

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


----------



## ereed

rflores2323 said:


> What sound system and speakers do you have?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


Axiom Audio speakers and Rotel amp/preamp. Same system I've had for 12 years!


----------



## Dominic Chan

busybe said:


> Thanks! I will have to check what mount comes with the wab screen to see how I can accomplish that..


My previous reply assumes a fixed frame screen. The Silver Ticket screens use four keyhole brackets for mounting the screen on the wall. With motorized screens or manual pulldown screens, one would indeed use two brackets and hooks.


----------



## busybe

Dominic Chan said:


> My previous reply assumes a fixed frame screen. The Silver Ticket screens use four keyhole brackets for mounting the screen on the wall. With motorized screens or manual pulldown screens, one would indeed use two brackets and hooks.


Thanks. It is 100" fixed screen (acoustic, which I think has a larger border than regular fixed frame screen) and not sure what brackets are used. I emailed their customer service and they gave me a youtube link, however that is a larger curved screen with 2 support bars, and if I am not mistaken 100" will only have 1 bar in the middle. Also, the mounting bracket shown on their website are different than the ones shown in the video, so I am confused.

https://silver-ticket-products.myshopify.com/pages/silver-ticket-3-1-4-fixed-frame-installation


----------



## acmeavs

scupking said:


> Didn't want to post anything until I was finished! Love the setup! 92" white st and BenQ ht2050!
> View attachment 1661441
> 
> View attachment 1661449


Very nice setup! What are the rest of your components?


----------



## Docj04

*Update*

Does anybody know if the ALR screen is UHD/4K compatible?
I noticed on Silver ticket's website that some of the screen materials actually specify/desigante that they are 4K ready, but not so with the ALR screens. What does 4K ready even mean, BTW

FWIW, I'm going to be pairing a 120" screen with a forthcoming Epson 5040UB which will be ceiling mounted with 13-15' throw.

I will be doing a good deal of daytime and lights on entertainment watching, and have gathered (although not 100% convinced) that the ALR screen is my best option. Just want to make certain that this screen will be compatible with the "faux-4K" pixel shift images that the 5040 will throw.

Thanks.

**UPDATE**

Well, I posed the same question to the silver ticket support, and the emailed right back.
They told me that the ALR screen is being revised to address the grainy problems that many have mentioned. Unfortunately for people like me who need a screen NOW, the told me it will be "a few months until it's available." It will be 4K ready--whatever that actually means.

They suggested the grey material, but reading here, it seems the grey is the worst of all worlds compared to the ALR and the white.

What the heck should I do now??


----------



## scupking

acmeavs said:


> Very nice setup! What are the rest of your components?


Receiver is a Yamaha Rx-v373
Speakers are pioneer SP-FS52 Floor-standing Loudspeakers, SP-BS22-LR Bookshelf Loudspeakers. SP-C22 Center-Channel Speaker and a Polk psw505 12 inch sub.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Docj04 said:


> I will be doing a good deal of daytime and lights on entertainment watching, and have gathered (although not 100% convinced) that the ALR screen is my best option.


The ALR screen is indeed usually the best choice for such applications. Note, however:
- the ALR loses its effectiveness if most of the light comes in the same direction as the projector
- the viewing angle of the ALR screen is much narrower than matte screens
The Silver Ticket ALR is indeed very grainy. People seem to have good results with the Elite Cinegrey screens.



> They suggested the grey material, but reading here, it seems the grey is the worst of all worlds compared to the ALR and the white.


Grey material does help combat ambient light, but at 0.9 gain the difference is not significant. You would need a very dark screen and a very bright projector to get noticeable improvement.
If daytime viewing is important, you may want to consider one of the "home entertainment" rather than "home theatre" projectors.


----------



## Docj04

Thanks Dominic. I've been back and forth between the Cinegrey 5D and the silver ticket ALR. You make a good point that with the ST gray being .9 gain--it probably doesn't help much if at all in ambient light.

I will ordering the 5040ub projector tomorrow. I will be ceiling mounted 9'8" ceilings with a somewhat short throw of only about 14-15'6'.

Does anyone have any videos or pics demonstrating the viewing angle of the ST ALR screen? what is its reported viewing/half-gain angle?

Also--relative to graininess, is it most noticeable in bright scenes AND during blacked out/nightime watching, or is it apparent in daytime/high ambient light conditions too? Can't projector lumen output be lowered during blackout nightime watching environments to help offset the graininess?


----------



## Dominic Chan

Docj04 said:


> Does anyone have any videos or pics demonstrating the viewing angle of the ST ALR screen? what is its reported viewing/half-gain angle?


I did a mini-review on the ST ALR screen. Here's one post but there are additional ones.
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-27.html#post43348554



> Also--relative to graininess, is it most noticeable in bright scenes AND during blacked out/nightime watching, or is it apparent in daytime/high ambient light conditions too? Can't projector lumen output be lowered during blackout nightime watching environments to help offset the graininess?


To me the biggest problem with the ST ALR is not the graininess as such, but there's an unevenness of the coating that's very noticeable during panning shots. Others have reported the same issue (again, in this thread).


----------



## Brian Hampton

Anyone have info on how to clean a silver ticket screen?


----------



## Dominic Chan

Brian Hampton said:


> Anyone have info on how to clean a silver ticket screen?


Here are the cleaning instructions:


> Many small areas such as streaks or smudges can be carefully cleaned with a mild detergent (soap) diluted to 30% to 40% with water and applied with a soft, non-abrasive cloth or a gentle brush (e.g. a soft toothbrush). If this does not work, you can also use a non-ammonia all-purpose cleaner such as 409 to clean the affected area - just be sure not to scrub too hard in one spot since this may cause the material to wear out in that spot.


Source: https://www.silverticketproducts.com/pages/can-the-screen-material-be-cleaned


----------



## ereed

Brian Hampton said:


> Anyone have info on how to clean a silver ticket screen?


Assuming there is no food or any stains or smudges I just use a swifter duster (blue ones with hand handle) and wipe sideways to keep it dust free.


----------



## Brian Hampton

Thanks for the info about cleaning.

I noticed something yesterday but it's very difficult to see in normal use. The reason I noticed it was there was a scene with a parked car with headlights on like someone put a flashlight up to that part of the screen.

I bought the screen in April and it's been good. I host a movie night on Sunday so I don't think I'll try anything with liquids on the screen before that but I do have plenty of the swiffer things and it may be a good plan to "dust" the screen ... I'll have a good look at it with some lights up first.

-Brian

edit - Well it did the swiffer thing no problem. Then I hit the small blue-ish stain I had noticed with a soft toothbrush and 409. That worked too well... seemed to really help that part of the screen.... I think I'm going to wash the whole screen now and hope for the best.


----------



## Davecraze

So I finally got the silver screen 16:9 150 inch woven screen up and I have to tell you guys, the screen is fantastic. I have had draper, Seymour av and carada screens and this screen I just as nice as those three. I did not even need the black backing that they helpfully included. Less than an hour to put it together and on the wall. 

Almost unbelievable that it was only 599 through Amazon.

I will try to post better pics and do a little testing asap.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dolphinc

Davecraze said:


> So I finally got the silver screen 16:9 150 inch woven screen up and I have to tell you guys, the screen is fantastic. I have had draper, Seymour av and carada screens and this screen I just as nice as those three. I did not even need the black backing that they helpfully included. Less than an hour to put it together and on the wall.
> 
> Almost unbelievable that it was only 599 through Amazon.
> 
> I will try to post better pics and do a little testing asap.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That's an awesome screen! Enjoy it...


----------



## Livin

Has anyone compared ST Woven (WAB series) to a spandex DIY screen? I'm debating making a Spandex 120" vs buying ST 120". Thanks.


----------



## Livin

Livin said:


> Has anyone compared ST Woven (WAB series) to a spandex DIY screen? I'm debating making a Spandex 120" vs buying ST 120". Thanks.


Anyone?


----------



## ereed

You are better off asking this question in the Screen section and create your own post for real answers. Most of us in here have probably never compared our screens to spandex and this is my first screen so I have nothing to compare it to.


----------



## busybe

I just put together 100" ST woven screen and although it is great, I see the weaving very clear in certain light shade scenes. Is it because I have been streaming from Chromecast- youtube (quality issues)? I haven't had much time to stream from other media.


----------



## Dominic Chan

busybe said:


> I just put together 100" ST woven screen and although it is great, I see the weaving very clear in certain light shade scenes. Is it because I have been streaming from Chromecast- youtube (quality issues)? I haven't had much time to stream from other media.


The weave will be visible if the viewing distance is close (less than ~10 ft). The quality of the streaming would not affect that.


----------



## busybe

Dominic Chan said:


> The weave will be visible if the viewing distance is close (less than ~10 ft). The quality of the streaming would not affect that.


My view distance is roughly 14ft and it is still clearly visible. May be the reflection of the side wall? The colors also seem to be white washed a little.


----------



## ereed

busybe said:


> My view distance is roughly 14ft and it is still clearly visible. May be the reflection of the side wall? The colors also seem to be white washed a little.


Is the weave visible if you're just staring at the blank screen with no video on it with lights on from your MLP? If so, then you need to move back more or get a different screen with smaller weave pattern so its not noticable.


----------



## busybe

ereed said:


> Is the weave visible if you're just staring at the blank screen with no video on it with lights on from your MLP? If so, then you need to move back more or get a different screen with smaller weave pattern so its not noticable.


It is visible with video on and no other lights other than the projection. Especially with lighter color scenes. however the ceiling is white (screen roughly 20" from ceiling) and screen is close to one of the side walls - roughly 10 inches away. Although the color of the side wall is dark, i do see it lit up during the projection


----------



## ereed

busybe said:


> It is visible with video on and no other lights other than the projection. Especially with lighter color scenes. however the ceiling is white (screen roughly 20" from ceiling) and screen is close to one of the side walls - roughly 10 inches away. Although the color of the side wall is dark, i do see it lit up during the projection


Looks like you would need to move further back or get a different screen with less noticeable weave from where you sit. Wall color has nothing to do with seeing the weave on the screen. Not sure how to go around the screen.....maybe ask DIY people in the thread and they may have other suggestions to combat it without having to purchase another screen.


----------



## busybe

ereed said:


> Looks like you would need to move further back or get a different screen with less noticeable weave from where you sit. Wall color has nothing to do with seeing the weave on the screen. Not sure how to go around the screen.....maybe ask DIY people in the thread and they may have other suggestions to combat it without having to purchase another screen.


Ok, thanks for your input. I will check in the DIY section. I was hoping if any ST woven screen owners can provide their experience with the material. Since it is only visible in certain scenes I am assuming it is may be due to certain light conditions or some other reasons.


----------



## brian6751

busybe said:


> Ok, thanks for your input. I will check in the DIY section. I was hoping if any ST woven screen owners can provide their experience with the material. Since it is only visible in certain scenes I am assuming it is may be due to certain light conditions or some other reasons.


I'm surprised you can see the weave from 14'. Are you sure its the weave your seeing and not something else? Can you see it with bluray's to? What projector do you have?


----------



## Dominic Chan

brian6751 said:


> I'm surprised you can see the weave from 14'. Are you sure its the weave your seeing and not something else?


I find this surprising as well. With the projector off, can you see the weave under room light, from the same distances?


----------



## Dws6

Docj04 said:


> Thanks Dominic. I've been back and forth between the Cinegrey 5D and the silver ticket ALR. You make a good point that with the ST gray being .9 gain--it probably doesn't help much if at all in ambient light.
> 
> 
> 
> I will ordering the 5040ub projector tomorrow. I will be ceiling mounted 9'8" ceilings with a somewhat short throw of only about 14-15'6'.
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any videos or pics demonstrating the viewing angle of the ST ALR screen? what is its reported viewing/half-gain angle?
> 
> 
> 
> Also--relative to graininess, is it most noticeable in bright scenes AND during blacked out/nightime watching, or is it apparent in daytime/high ambient light conditions too? Can't projector lumen output be lowered during blackout nightime watching environments to help offset the graininess?




FYI, I just installed a 6040UB on 10' ceiling with a 14" downrod. 120" Screen will be 23" off the floor and throw is 13'. Worked fine. Just trying to decide if the 120" silver ticket white is the way to go in a dark completely light controlled room. I'm thinking it will work well. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ereed

Dws6 said:


> FYI, I just installed a 6040UB on 10' ceiling with a 14" downrod. 120" Screen will be 23" off the floor and throw is 13'. Worked fine. Just trying to decide if the 120" silver ticket white is the way to go in a dark completely light controlled room. I'm thinking it will work well.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


White is the way to go if you're going to view it in a dark room.


----------



## Jbed27

Dws6 said:


> Docj04 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Dominic. I've been back and forth between the Cinegrey 5D and the silver ticket ALR. You make a good point that with the ST gray being .9 gain--it probably doesn't help much if at all in ambient light.
> 
> 
> 
> I will ordering the 5040ub projector tomorrow. I will be ceiling mounted 9'8" ceilings with a somewhat short throw of only about 14-15'6'.
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any videos or pics demonstrating the viewing angle of the ST ALR screen? what is its reported viewing/half-gain angle?
> 
> 
> 
> Also--relative to graininess, is it most noticeable in bright scenes AND during blacked out/nightime watching, or is it apparent in daytime/high ambient light conditions too? Can't projector lumen output be lowered during blackout nightime watching environments to help offset the graininess?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FYI, I just installed a 6040UB on 10' ceiling with a 14" downrod. 120" Screen will be 23" off the floor and throw is 13'. Worked fine. Just trying to decide if the 120" silver ticket white is the way to go in a dark completely light controlled room. I'm thinking it will work well.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I have almost identical distances as you do, with 8' ceilings, so I have a 110" white screen (really wanted the 120 but it would have sat too low to fit my center channel). 

I have a 100% light controlled room and I think the quality is off the charts. You won't go wrong with the white screen since you have full light control. 

I'm using a Sony HW55 on mine, and the viewing angles and richness of the picture is almost like I have a 110" plasma on the wall. You won't be disappointed. 

Joe


----------



## busybe

brian6751 said:


> I'm surprised you can see the weave from 14'. Are you sure its the weave your seeing and not something else? Can you see it with bluray's to? What projector do you have?


What could be that something else? I see straight lines.. hard to explain, but it looks like weaves. I will take a pic if I can and post it again. I have yet to test with bluray, Cou



Dominic Chan said:


> I find this surprising as well. With the projector off, can you see the weave under room light, from the same distances?


I just tested through some youtube movie trailors and yet to do more testing. Yes, I think it is weave, I see complete straight lines in lighter scenes. My projector is Epson 3000. I am using lens shift. I don't see the weave when projector is off and room lights on. Could it be faulty projector? I will do more testing and come back with pics.

Could it be the moire effect as explained here? I need to do the paper test as well then.

https://www.projectorscreen.com/blog/What-is-an-acoustically-transparent-projector-screen


----------



## Dominic Chan

busybe said:


> Could it be the moire effect as explained here? I need to do the paper test as well then.


One simple test you can do is to pause the video at a scene where you can see the lines, then deliberately throw off the projector focus.
- If you continue to see the lines with the focus off, then they most likely from the weave.
- If the lines disappear with the focus off, then it may be moire effect or something else not directly related to the weave.


----------



## busybe

Dominic Chan said:


> One simple test you can do is to pause the video at a scene where you can see the lines, then deliberately throw off the projector focus.
> - If you continue to see the lines with the focus off, then they most likely from the weave.
> - If the lines disappear with the focus off, then it may be moire effect or something else not directly related to the weave.



Thanks, I will try both paper test and what you have mentioned. I am also in touch with ST and they told me, maybe I installed the material backwards (or upside down) such that the holes are not aligning?.


----------



## Davecraze

I have a silver ticket 150 inch woven screen and from just under 12 feet in the front row, I cannot see the weave. Around 10 feet or so, I can sort of see it.


----------



## busybe

Davecraze said:


> I have a silver ticket 150 inch woven screen and from just under 12 feet in the front row, I cannot see the weave. Around 10 feet or so, I can sort of see it.


Thanks Davecraze. I do believe something is wrong with my screen or projector setting. I will be doing more testing over the weekend to figure out. The paper test, flipping the screen upside down to match the weave with pixels etc and if that does not work, contact ST.


----------



## Dominic Chan

busybe said:


> The paper test, flipping the screen upside down to match the weave with pixels etc and if that does not work, contact ST.


If the lines are caused by moire, I don't think flipping the screen upside down is going to solve the problem as things will still be at the same angle.


----------



## busybe

Dominic Chan said:


> If the lines are caused by moire, I don't think flipping the screen upside down is going to solve the problem as things will still be at the same angle.


So, did more testing. It is not my projector as paper test was negative. I tried flipping the screen upside down, no difference. Attached are couple pics of what I am talking about. The lines are everywhere, no matter the distance.


----------



## jasonsong

Maybe defocus the projector a little bit?
It sucks when the screen has a pattern that's too course for HD signal.


----------



## busybe

jasonsong said:


> Maybe defocus the projector a little bit?
> It sucks when the screen has a pattern that's too course for HD signal.


Thanks, will try to play around with focus and see if makes a difference. I have not seen any ST woven screen review with similar issue. I am in contact with ST and they have been extremely helpful so far


----------



## jasonsong

busybe said:


> Thanks, will try to play around with focus and see if makes a difference. I have not seen any ST woven screen review with similar issue. I am in contact with ST and they have been extremely helpful so far


What happens is you have two patterns (projector SDE and screen fabric) that are very identical but not lined up perfectly.


----------



## busybe

jasonsong said:


> What happens is you have two patterns (projector SDE and screen fabric) that are very identical but not lined up perfectly.


hmm, so you suggest de focusing may help? Or trying to move the screen/projector around to line up?


----------



## Dominic Chan

busybe said:


> So, did more testing. It is not my projector as paper test was negative. I tried flipping the screen upside down, no difference. Attached are couple pics of what I am talking about. The lines are everywhere, no matter the distance.


A high resolution camera will always show the patterns especially if you zoom in. The question is whether the patterns are visible to the naked eye at the normal viewing distance.


----------



## jasonsong

busybe said:


> hmm, so you suggest de focusing may help? Or trying to move the screen/projector around to line up?


It will be hard to line up. Actually being too close to lined up is the problem. If they had the pattern at an angle, you wouldn't have the problem.
Defocusing the projector reduces one of the pattern.


----------



## brian6751

jasonsong said:


> It will be hard to line up. Actually being too close to lined up is the problem. If they had the pattern at an angle, you wouldn't have the problem.
> Defocusing the projector reduces one of the pattern.


The pattern should be cut at an angle. I had confirmed that with ST when I was inquiring about purchasing from them.


----------



## Dominic Chan

brian6751 said:


> The pattern should be cut at an angle. I had confirmed that with ST when I was inquiring about purchasing from them.


Yes, the fabric pattern should be cut at an angle to avoid moire pattern. However, if the OP is seeing the fabric patterns (weave lines) themselves, than the issue will remain regardless of the cut angle.


----------



## busybe

Dominic Chan said:


> A high resolution camera will always show the patterns especially if you zoom in. The question is whether the patterns are visible to the naked eye at the normal viewing distance.


(the pics are not zoomed in) sorry, why would I put pics here if I do not see any patterns visible to naked eye?. naked eye is even worst than what you see through these pictures


----------



## busybe

brian6751 said:


> The pattern should be cut at an angle. I had confirmed that with ST when I was inquiring about purchasing from them.


Thanks. So, did you have such a problem, or did you buy ST (acoustic transparent) screen?



Dominic Chan said:


> Yes, the fabric pattern should be cut at an angle to avoid moire pattern. However, if the OP is seeing the fabric patterns (weave lines) themselves, than the issue will remain regardless of the cut angle.


So, if you think that the issue will remain regardless, where is the problem? My projector?


----------



## Dominic Chan

busybe said:


> So, if you think that the issue will remain regardless, where is the problem? My projector?


You previously said "It is not my projector as paper test was negative". Assuming "negative" means that you did not see the same lines on a piece of paper, then the only remaining explanation is that the screen weave is too coarse for the viewing distance.


----------



## busybe

Dominic Chan said:


> You previously said "It is not my projector as paper test was negative". Assuming "negative" means that you did not see the same lines on a piece of paper, then the only remaining explanation is that the screen weave is too coarse for the viewing distance.


Ok, thanks. Well the thing is, what I see, the distance does not matter, even at 16ft, I see the effect clearly- again, this is only visible in the lighter part of the scene/colors. For dark colors or dark scenes, it is just fine, no lines. so, not sure what it is. ST has been kind enough to mail another screen(to Canada). I will post again next week after I receive and test it.


----------



## brian6751

busybe said:


> Thanks. So, did you have such a problem, or did you buy ST (acoustic transparent) screen?


I just called them to ask if their AT material was cut on a angle when I was shopping for screens. I did not buy a ST screen.


----------



## jasonsong

Dominic Chan said:


> Yes, the fabric pattern should be cut at an angle to avoid moire pattern. However, if the OP is seeing the fabric patterns (weave lines) themselves, than the issue will remain regardless of the cut angle.





Dominic Chan said:


> You previously said "It is not my projector as paper test was negative". Assuming "negative" means that you did not see the same lines on a piece of paper, then the only remaining explanation is that the screen weave is too coarse for the viewing distance.


The problem is only when projected on the screen so it's when two patterns are on top of each other is when it's happening.


----------



## jasonsong

brian6751 said:


> I just called them to ask if their AT material was cut on a angle when I was shopping for screens. I did not buy a ST screen.


Do you know if your screen is rated for 1080p resolution?


----------



## brian6751

jasonsong said:


> Do you know if your screen is rated for 1080p resolution?


Mine is rated for 4k but could possibly go higher.


----------



## Dominic Chan

jasonsong said:


> The problem is only when projected on the screen so it's when two patterns are on top of each other is when it's happening.


That was why I suggested previously to de-focus the projector to see if the pattern remains visible. That would allow distinguishing projector issue from screen issue and moire interference patterns.
.


----------



## busybe

jasonsong said:


> Do you know if your screen is rated for 1080p resolution?


Yes, this is how they advertise - 
* Silver Ticket 100" Diagonal 16:9 4K Ultra HD Ready HDTV*


----------



## gnolivos

My Moire patterns on ST AT Screen disappeared completely when I upgraded to a 4K projector. (Quasi 4K actually, the Epson 5040)


----------



## jasonsong

gnolivos said:


> My Moire patterns on ST AT Screen disappeared completely when I upgraded to a 4K projector. (Quasi 4K actually, the Epson 5040)


Obviously, higher resolution will help significantly because the pixles would be smaller.


----------



## jasonsong

busybe said:


> Yes, this is how they advertise -
> * Silver Ticket 100" Diagonal 16:9 4K Ultra HD Ready HDTV*


I would contact them.


----------



## gnolivos

If you want to test whether the weave angle could help in any way, take the projector and angle it incrementally to see if the Moire pattern improves or even disappears.


----------



## busybe

jasonsong said:


> I would contact them.


Yes I have and they are sending another screen. They mentioned maybe the screen was not cut at a proper angle. I should receive it any day next week, so hopefully will be able to install and test it out by next weekend.



gnolivos said:


> If you want to test whether the weave angle could help in any way, take the projector and angle it incrementally to see if the Moire pattern improves or even disappears.


Yeah, maybe I should test it this way as well along with playing with the focus.


----------



## ereed

Throw a white sheet over the screen and see if you still see lines. If you do...its the projector, if not the its the screen. Some people see weave, some don't.


----------



## busybe

ereed said:


> Throw a white sheet over the screen and see if you still see lines. If you do...its the projector, if not the its the screen. Some people see weave, some don't.


I have tried white paper test and could not see those line on the paper.


----------



## ereed

busybe said:


> I have tried white paper test and could not see those line on the paper.


Ok, but try the sheet too so you can see whole big picture from where you sit. If everything looks good I recommend you get a better quality AT screen.


----------



## gnolivos

It's Moire. Nothing else. I know this screen well and you have Moire. Defocus or get a 4K projector are your only realistic solutions. Or a better AT screen?


----------



## ereed

gnolivos said:


> It's Moire. Nothing else. I know this screen well and you have Moire. Defocus or get a 4K projector are your only realistic solutions. Or a better AT screen?


Yes, appears to be moire from his zoomed in pics. Maybe a perforated screen would be best.


----------



## Dominic Chan

ereed said:


> Yes, appears to be moire from his zoomed in pics. Maybe a perforated screen would be best.


To me the lines look like the actual weave pattern rather than moire (you need to view the image at "1:1").
In any case, de-focusing the projector, or changing the zoom, will allow this to be confirmed for certain.


----------



## gnolivos

Nope. It's Moire. I have this screen. That's what Moire looks like. You can stare at the screen with projector off and see nothing. Then project a white pattern and then Moire appears. Then zoom in or out and you can watch it 'move'


----------



## Dominic Chan

gnolivos said:


> Nope. It's Moire. I have this screen. That's what Moire looks like.


The posted pictures do show some mild "ripply" Moire pattern, but you can also see the much "tighter" pattern which would be the weave. I'm not sure which one the OP is referring to.


> Then zoom in or out and you can watch it 'move'


Yes, that would prove it without a doubt.


----------



## busybe

Thanks all. I think it has to do with projector's projection hitting the weave pattern in some odd way. The lines that I see,shows the weave across the whole screen on ligher scenes. I beleive I need to adjust both, the screen and the projector. I certainly need to do more testing, once the new screen arrives. 

I tried to search reviews on amazon with people using the same screen and there is no complaint of moire, so I am assuming either the screen has not been cut at a proper angle or Epson 3000 and ST WAB screen are not a good match. I certainly cannot afford 4K projector @gnolivos. And I am not sure if I can return ST screen, so I have to find a closest solution that I can enjoy watching on my big screen .


----------



## gnolivos

When you angle the projector, does the Moire improve? I never tried that. But it is an easy test.


----------



## Dominic Chan

busybe said:


> Thanks all. I think it has to do with projector's projection hitting the weave pattern in some odd way. The lines that I see,shows the weave across the whole screen on ligher scenes. I beleive I need to adjust both, the screen and the projector. I certainly need to do more testing, once the new screen arrives.


De-focusing the projector and zooming in/out are two tests that can be very easily done (literally in a few minutes), and will help conclude once for all the nature of the lines you're seeing.


----------



## busybe

Dominic Chan said:


> De-focusing the projector and zooming in/out are two tests that can be very easily done (literally in a few minutes), and will help conclude once for all the nature of the lines you're seeing.


Ok, got some time to do some testing. Defocusing takes away the lines and bringing the focus back to normal brings the lines back on. So, what does this conclude?

Colors pics shows no lines


----------



## busybe

gnolivos said:


> When you angle the projector, does the Moire improve? I never tried that. But it is an easy test.


Changing the angle of the projector, it does not take it away moire, however it changes the moire pattern, instead of straight lines,I see curved or slanted lines..


----------



## gnolivos

busybe said:


> Ok, got some time to do some testing. Defocusing takes away the lines and bringing the focus back to normal brings the lines back on. So, what does this conclude?
> 
> 
> 
> Colors pics shows no lines




It's MOIRE.


----------



## gnolivos

busybe said:


> Changing the angle of the projector, it does not take it away moire, however it changes the moire pattern, instead of straight lines,I see curved or slanted lines..




Moire. Moire. Moire!


----------



## Dominic Chan

busybe said:


> Ok, got some time to do some testing. Defocusing takes away the lines and bringing the focus back to normal brings the lines back on. So, what does this conclude?


That confirms that the lines are indeed moire, and hopefully the replacement screen will not have the same issue.


----------



## busybe

gnolivos said:


> Moire. Moire. Moire!






Dominic Chan said:


> That confirms that the lines are indeed moire, and hopefully the replacement screen will not have the same issue.


Thank you. Yes, i hope so the new screen diminishes this issue. I certainly hope so. Will update again once I put it up.


----------



## gnolivos

Keep us posted. You could just angle your projector and would know right away


----------



## jasonsong

Maybe 3LCD SDE is just too much for a AT screen? They really should've cut the fabric at 45 degree angle.


----------



## busybe

I have received the screen, so hopefully will install it this weekend. Fingers crossed


----------



## blkz06

I have an issue with my ST screen...looks like its dimpled pretty badly in the lower 1/4 corner of the screen. Its about 2' x 3'. Its not wrinkles, these are dimples.

Does anyone know the best way to contact Silver Ticket? All they have on the website is an email address.


----------



## bgeery

blkz06 said:


> Does anyone know the best way to contact Silver Ticket? All they have on the website is an email address.


With my screen there was a paper included with the instructions that gave the phone number to call.


----------



## blkz06

bgeery said:


> With my screen there was a paper included with the instructions that gave the phone number to call.


Do you happen to have that number handy?

My paperwork doesn't have anything on it as far as a number to call.


----------



## bgeery

blkz06 said:


> Do you happen to have that number handy?
> 
> My paperwork doesn't have anything on it as far as a number to call.


Maybe they stopped including it. Nope, I tossed the paper after install. Maybe someone else still has it.


----------



## busybe

blkz06 said:


> I have an issue with my ST screen...looks like its dimpled pretty badly in the lower 1/4 corner of the screen. Its about 2' x 3'. Its not wrinkles, these are dimples.
> 
> Does anyone know the best way to contact Silver Ticket? All they have on the website is an email address.


You just email them. They are very quick in responding. That's how I have dealt with my issue. For yours, I would say, use the set of springs (both) to stretch in that area. Let it stand for couple days. It should go away. Do you have a pic you can post?


----------



## busybe

gnolivos said:


> Keep us posted. You could just angle your projector and would know right away





jasonsong said:


> Maybe 3LCD SDE is just too much for a AT screen? They really should've cut the fabric at 45 degree angle.


I am very disappointed to tell you that installing the new material resulted in the same moire effect. No changes at all!!! Arrg..

Does that conclude that my projector (Epson 3000) and SilverTicket AT screen are not a good match? Defocusing takes away the moire, but that's not how I want to watch anything..

The big questions is - What do I do now? What can I do now? Do they have a return policy?


----------



## gnolivos

busybe said:


> I am very disappointed to tell you that installing the new material resulted in the same moire effect. No changes at all!!! Arrg..
> 
> 
> 
> Does that conclude that my projector (Epson 3000) and SilverTicket AT screen are not a good match? Defocusing takes away the moire, but that's not how I want to watch anything..
> 
> 
> 
> The big questions is - What do I do now? What can I do now? Do they have a return policy?




Well I've tried helping you to no end. Will you please PLEASE do yourself a favor and ANGLE THE PROJECTOR SLIGHTLY to determine whether it will remove the moire?


----------



## Dominic Chan

busybe said:


> Defocusing takes away the moire, but that's not how I want to watch anything..


Understandably. Are you able to defocus the projector just a little bit to elimate the moire without noticeably softening the picture at the normal viewing distance? 

Mounting the projector at a different height or distance can sometimes reduce moire.



> Do they have a return policy?


Returning items across the border adds complexity due the customs etc. It's best to contact them directly to see what they say.


----------



## busybe

gnolivos said:


> Well I've tried helping you to no end. Will you please PLEASE do yourself a favor and ANGLE THE PROJECTOR SLIGHTLY to determine whether it will remove the moire?


I do thank you for all your help @gnolivos. 

I have done that, it does not help. Right now the projector is mounted on the ceiling so I can only change it from up/down and left to right.I will play with it more to determine if at all that may help



Dominic Chan said:


> Understandably. Are you able to defocus the projector just a little bit to elimate the moire without noticeably softening the picture at the normal viewing distance?
> 
> Mounting the projector at a different height or distance can sometimes reduce moire.
> 
> 
> Returning items across the border adds complexity due the customs etc. It's best to contact them directly to see what they say.


Yes, a little defocus help with moire (not to go away completely, but at least lessen it). To make it go away completely, I have to defocus to the extent that it ruins the quality of the picture (and of course the texts looks completely defocused).

I may have to try to play around with projector's height and distance. 

Returning the item should only cost me shipping(hopefully), should not have customs issue, since I did not pay any customs bringing it to Canada. However, I paid Canadian taxes on this item, don't know how I can get that back.


----------



## gnolivos

busybe said:


> I do thank you for all your help @gnolivos.
> 
> 
> 
> I have done that, it does not help. Right now the projector is mounted on the ceiling so I can only change it from up/down and left to right.I will play with it more to determine if at all that may help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, a little defocus help with moire (not to go away completely, but at least lessen it). To make it go away completely, I have to defocus to the extent that it ruins the quality of the picture (and of course the texts looks completely defocused).
> 
> 
> 
> I may have to try to play around with projector's height and distance.
> 
> 
> 
> Returning the item should only cost me shipping(hopefully), should not have customs issue, since I did not pay any customs bringing it to Canada. However, I paid Canadian taxes on this item, don't know how I can get that back.




You NEED to angle it left and right. Not any other direction. This will have the same effect as tiliting your screen left and right, or angling the fabric. But doing it at the projector is much easier. If that works for you, and it resolves the Moire, you could contact silver ticket and tell them they need to cut it at a steeper angle. 

Good luck. I'm out.


----------



## Dominic Chan

busybe said:


> Returning the item should only cost me shipping(hopefully), should not have customs issue, since I did not pay any customs bringing it to Canada. However, I paid Canadian taxes on this item, don't know how I can get that back.


You can claim the refund for the taxes you paid:
Refund of Duties and Taxes on Non-commercial Importations


----------



## busybe

gnolivos said:


> You NEED to angle it left and right. Not any other direction. This will have the same effect as tiliting your screen left and right, or angling the fabric. But doing it at the projector is much easier. If that works for you, and it resolves the Moire, you could contact silver ticket and tell them they need to cut it at a steeper angle.
> 
> Good luck. I'm out.


Thanks again for your help



Dominic Chan said:


> You can claim the refund for the taxes you paid:
> Refund of Duties and Taxes on Non-commercial Importations


Thanks Dominic Chan. You have been a great help. And thank you for this link.


----------



## blkz06

busybe said:


> You just email them. They are very quick in responding. That's how I have dealt with my issue. For yours, I would say, use the set of springs (both) to stretch in that area. Let it stand for couple days. It should go away. Do you have a pic you can post?


I did email them, and to their credit they did email me back the next day.

However, it looks as though almost 3/4 of the screen is dimpled, some very deeply. 

They advised to use a hair dryer, and it did work on some of the dimples...but lets be honest who the hell has 5 hours to blowdry their screen? Also noticed that the screen is not very tight along the long edges of the frame. It took almost zero effort to get the screen pulled on to the fasteners.

This is going back to Amazon and I'm going to pony up the extra money to get a quality screen.

Thinking about an SI or Elunevision.


----------



## busybe

blkz06 said:


> I did email them, and to their credit they did email me back the next day.
> 
> However, it looks as though almost 3/4 of the screen is dimpled, some very deeply.
> 
> They advised to use a hair dryer, and it did work on some of the dimples...but lets be honest who the hell has 5 hours to blowdry their screen? Also noticed that the screen is not very tight along the long edges of the frame. It took almost zero effort to get the screen pulled on to the fasteners.
> 
> This is going back to Amazon and I'm going to pony up the extra money to get a quality screen.
> 
> Thinking about an SI or Elunevision.


I had the same issue in the beginning about screen not being tight along the long edges. I used both the set of springs - small and large and after 1 week, that was straightened up perfect. Is it AT screen? It did not bother me in viewing. It only showed when I was not projecting anything. If you can wait one week, might want to try that. Good that you bought from Amazon as they have good return policy.


----------



## blkz06

busybe said:


> I had the same issue in the beginning about screen not being tight along the long edges. I used both the set of springs - small and large and after 1 week, that was straightened up perfect. Is it AT screen? It did not bother me in viewing. It only showed when I was not projecting anything. If you can wait one week, might want to try that. Good that you bought from Amazon as they have good return policy.


No mine is not AT.

It did not come with any springs.

To get the absolute best picture quality, the surface needs to be perfectly flat, and no texture.

This screen has minimal texture, but it is not tight enough to keep it perfectly flat.


----------



## gnolivos

Their AT screens attach with springs. Perfectly right. Is yours attaching with snap buttons?


----------



## blkz06

gnolivos said:


> Their AT screens attach with springs. Perfectly right. Is yours attaching with snap buttons?


Mine had fiberglass rods, and plastic pegs.

The screen has circular cutouts, and the rods run thru the screen edge. You clip the circular holes/rod over the plastic pegs. Thats it.


----------



## ereed

blkz06 said:


> Mine had fiberglass rods, and plastic pegs.
> 
> The screen has circular cutouts, and the rods run thru the screen edge. You clip the circular holes/rod over the plastic pegs. Thats it.


Yes, yours is non AT screen. I have same screen in 120 inch, love it.


----------



## gnolivos

You may want to wait a few days. Most people across brands have this 'issue' but it dissipates over time. The silver ticket screens are of tremendous quality and compete with screens costing 3 times as much.


----------



## Dominic Chan

blkz06 said:


> Also noticed that the screen is not very tight along the long edges of the frame. It took almost zero effort to get the screen pulled on to the fasteners.


I would contact them again before returning it. There were some batches of ST screens that were not cut to the right size. With the right size the screen material should be properly tensioned (slightly stretched) and flat.


----------



## busybe

gnolivos said:


> You NEED to angle it left and right. Not any other direction. This will have the same effect as tiliting your screen left and right, or angling the fabric. But doing it at the projector is much easier. If that works for you, and it resolves the Moire, you could contact silver ticket and tell them they need to cut it at a steeper angle.
> 
> Good luck. I'm out.





Dominic Chan said:


> Understandably. Are you able to defocus the projector just a little bit to elimate the moire without noticeably softening the picture at the normal viewing distance?
> 
> Mounting the projector at a different height or distance can sometimes reduce moire.
> 
> 
> Returning items across the border adds complexity due the customs etc. It's best to contact them directly to see what they say.


 @gnolivos, I said you are out, but just 1 more question to you as well Dominic Chan

So, I tried more to play with the projector. Completely zoom our or zoom in helped with moire diminishing quite a bit, but as soon as I bring it to the right size of the screen(or around there), moire is quite visible. Is this projector's issue?


----------



## Dominic Chan

busybe said:


> So, I tried more to play with the projector. Completely zoom out or zoom in helped with moire diminishing quite a bit, but as soon as I bring it to the right size of the screen(or around there), moire is quite visible. Is this projector's issue?


Moire is caused by the interaction between the projector and the screen; you can't really say it's a "projector issue" as the projector would work totally fine without moire on a matte screen.
Based on your latest findings, switching to a larger screen or smaller screen may eliminate, or at lease reduce the moire. You should try zooming to exactly the next size (up or down) to see what it would look like. Measure the projected image on the wall to be sure.
Although less likely, re-position the projector sometimes also helps.


----------



## apcreek

Hi guys

Is the weave on the AT Silver Ticket screens visable from 3 meters?

Anyone think I am making a mistake going for a 135" screen at that distance?

When assembling a fixed frame screen how much clearance around it is needed? Wondering if I can fit the largest screen possible in my room.


Thanks


----------



## busybe

apcreek said:


> Hi guys
> 
> Is the weave on the AT Silver Ticket screens visable from 3 meters?
> 
> Anyone think I am making a mistake going for a 135" screen at that distance?
> 
> When assembling a fixed frame screen how much clearance around it is needed? Wondering if I can fit the largest screen possible in my room.
> 
> 
> Thanks


3 mts is close to 9 ft. I think it might be a little too close, but then again it depends on how you enjoy your view. When you to go an actual movie theater, do you sit too close to the big screen?

I have Sliver Ticket AT screen (100") and from 9ft, it great! AT screen requires very little ceiling room to mount the screen

This is from their website

"Note: The minimum ceiling clearance this bracket system will allow is 1/8", which means that the top of the upper brackets needs to be placed at minimum of 3/8" from the ceiling to allow room to mount the screen."
https://silver-ticket-products.myshopify.com/pages/silver-ticket-3-1-4-fixed-frame-installation

Hope this helps


----------



## Dominic Chan

busybe said:


> I have Sliver Ticket AT screen (100") and from 9ft, it great!


Have you managed to solved the issue with moire patterns?


----------



## busybe

Dominic Chan said:


> Have you managed to solved the issue with moire patterns?


Nope, not much testing done other than what I have mentioned in my earlier post. My projector is mounted on the ceiling. I don't want to get into hassel of demounting and mounting in a new location. I don't know what else I can do. Definitely do not want to go a smaller screen (right now 100") and my space won't allow me to go beyond 100 (maybe I can fit border less 110", but that's about it).

I am in contact with ST. They say, they may make a special screen for me to try one more time. I may want to return the screen and go a different direction, but they are great to work with (have been extremely helpful with every question and frustration I have mentioned to them) so want to give them one more try.

Whether this work out or not, I am extremely impressed with ST's customer service and would not mind recommending anyone to ST.


----------



## Dominic Chan

busybe said:


> Whether this work out or not, I am extremely impressed with ST's customer service and would not mind recommending anyone to ST.


I agree. I've had their "standard" matte white screen and also the 1.3 gain, and have been very pleased with both the quality of the screen and their customer service.
However, their AT and ALR screens do not seem to fare as well.


----------



## Dws6

busybe said:


> Nope, not much testing done other than what I have mentioned in my earlier post. My projector is mounted on the ceiling. I don't want to get into hassel of demounting and mounting in a new location. I don't know what else I can do. Definitely do not want to go a smaller screen (right now 100") and my space won't allow me to go beyond 100 (maybe I can fit border less 110", but that's about it).
> 
> 
> 
> I am in contact with ST. They say, they may make a special screen for me to try one more time. I may want to return the screen and go a different direction, but they are great to work with (have been extremely helpful with every question and frustration I have mentioned to them) so want to give them one more try.
> 
> 
> 
> Whether this work out or not, I am extremely impressed with ST's customer service and would not mind recommending anyone to ST.




I may have missed it but didn't see a confirmation. Would spinning the projector 5deg off center on the mount towards one of the walls and use the lens shift to bring it back onto the screen help with this moire issue?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## apcreek

busybe said:


> 3 mts is close to 9 ft. I think it might be a little too close, but then again it depends on how you enjoy your view. When you to go an actual movie theater, do you sit too close to the big screen?
> 
> I have Sliver Ticket AT screen (100") and from 9ft, it great! AT screen requires very little ceiling room to mount the screen
> 
> This is from their website
> 
> "Note: The minimum ceiling clearance this bracket system will allow is 1/8", which means that the top of the upper brackets needs to be placed at minimum of 3/8" from the ceiling to allow room to mount the screen."
> https://silver-ticket-products.myshopify.com/pages/silver-ticket-3-1-4-fixed-frame-installation
> 
> Hope this helps


Thanks, nah I tend to sit at the back at the cinema.

Hmm maybe 120" is a better size for me. Thanks for the reply.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Dws6 said:


> Would spinning the projector 5deg off center on the mount towards one of the walls and use the lens shift to bring it back onto the screen help with this moire


That may help with the moire, but would also cause noticeable geometric (keystone) distortion. Imho it's not a viable option.


----------



## Ryan0751

I just learned about these Silver Ticket screens. 

Right now I have a loft with a big gray wall, I have a 107x60" rectangle painted on the wall above my LCD TV (for daytime viewing) with Paint On Screen. It's the "S1 Ultimate Contrast" paint.

I've always thought it looks pretty damned good, but on white scenes you can see a bit of waviness if you look where the paint roller strokes are. It's not really noticeable unless you know to look for it.

Now I see I could potentially get this Silver Ticket screen for $249 that's 120" diagonal. That's a little smaller than I have now (123"). With the black border it seems like the whole thing could go right over my existing screen paint and I wouldn't even need to repaint the area.

Would this be worth doing? How is the matte material compared to the "Ultimate Contrast" paint I have now?

My room is capable of full light control, but I usually like to keep a small amount of light on in the side room off my living space.


----------



## busybe

Dws6 said:


> I may have missed it but didn't see a confirmation. Would spinning the projector 5deg off center on the mount towards one of the walls and use the lens shift to bring it back onto the screen help with this moire issue?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE
> 
> I have tried to play with projector quite a bit (basically moving it up/down). I do not (or dont know how to) know if I can move the projector left or right without demounting it. With all the movement, moire has not gone. I can try playing with projector again. Zooming in or out has certainly help with moire issue though, which I find it strange! At certain zoom it is so much visible and at certain zoom, it is barely visible..


----------



## busybe

Ryan0751 said:


> I just learned about these Silver Ticket screens.
> 
> Right now I have a loft with a big gray wall, I have a 107x60" rectangle painted on the wall above my LCD TV (for daytime viewing) with Paint On Screen. It's the "S1 Ultimate Contrast" paint.
> 
> I've always thought it looks pretty damned good, but on white scenes you can see a bit of waviness if you look where the paint roller strokes are. It's not really noticeable unless you know to look for it.
> 
> Now I see I could potentially get this Silver Ticket screen for $249 that's 120" diagonal. That's a little smaller than I have now (123"). With the black border it seems like the whole thing could go right over my existing screen paint and I wouldn't even need to repaint the area.
> 
> Would this be worth doing? How is the matte material compared to the "Ultimate Contrast" paint I have now?
> 
> My room is capable of full light control, but I usually like to keep a small amount of light on in the side room off my living space.


Would it be worth? I think so.. definitely worth a try. If you buy it from amazon, they have good return policy, if you do not like it.

Regarding material, I recommend emailing silver ticket directly. They are great in responding.


----------



## gnolivos

If only someone would angle the projector OR the screen a few degrees, the dilemma could be solved without all the shipping products back and forth. Sigh.


----------



## Dominic Chan

busybe said:


> I do not (or dont know how to) know if I can move the projector left or right without demounting it.


Most projector mounts let you adjust the yaw (rotation along the vertical axis) without dismounting; i.e., you can "point" the projector slightly to the left or to the right, rather than shifting the mounting location.



> Zooming in or out has certainly help with moire issue though, which I find it strange!


That is actually the _expected_ behaviour, and was the reason I suggested it as a test to see if the patterns were moire.


----------



## busybe

gnolivos said:


> If only someone would angle the projector OR the screen a few degrees, the dilemma could be solved without all the shipping products back and forth. Sigh.


You seem to be quite confident that your suggestion would solve the problem.


----------



## busybe

Dominic Chan said:


> Most projector mounts let you adjust the yaw (rotation along the vertical axis) without dismounting; i.e., you can "point" the projector slightly to the left or to the right, rather than shifting the mounting location.
> 
> 
> That is actually the _expected_ behaviour, and was the reason I suggested it as a test to see if the patterns were moire.


If what you say I am understanding, I have already done that. When I say move up and down, I meant to tilt it in different angles. This has created trapezoids as you mentioned previously. I have tried with and without keystone. I have tried angling the screen as well. I have tried everything possible without dismounting the projector.


----------



## Dominic Chan

busybe said:


> If what you say I am understanding, I have already done that. When I say move up and down, I meant to tilt it in different angles.


No, "rotating along the verical axis" means turning it left or right (yaw), not tilting it up and down (pitch).
See the illustration roll-pitch-and-yaw
It's worth trying.


----------



## busybe

Dominic Chan said:


> No, "rotating along the verical axis" means turning it left or right (yaw), not tilting it up and down (pitch).
> See the illustration roll-pitch-and-yaw


Thanks for the illustration . I am pretty sure I have tried all three different ways as illustrated. I will try it one more time. This may ruin the straight image and I will have to use lens shift + key stone correction. I would want to stay away from it if possible and have it at last resort.


----------



## Dominic Chan

busybe said:


> Thanks for the illustration . I am pretty sure I have tried all three different ways as illustrated. I will try it one more time. This may ruin the straight image and I will have to use lens shift + key stone correction. I would want to stay away from it if possible and have it at last resort.


Try it just to make "someone" happy


----------



## ereed

@busybe if none of the above solutions work and you really want to keep your projector, I suggest you to look at a better AT screen. While ST makes good screens, their AT screens are not as good as their non AT screens. And if you want to spend money on better AT screen that will help with moire, and you could try this if you have little money and not want to spend alot on AT screens is some little DIY. You can buy white spandex or microperf screen and keep your ST velvet frame. Not sure if anyone has tried that but that is what I would do if I were saving money and didn't want to spend few thousand on nice AT screen. I'd just keep the ST and do DIY screen with same ST frame. Let us know how the 3rd screen works for you? (3rd times the charm is what they say!)


----------



## busybe

Dominic Chan said:


> Try it just to make "someone" happy


haha, well, its about the other options out there. I want to try my best, but if it does not work out (without disturbing picture quality), I would like to try those other options.


----------



## busybe

ereed said:


> @busybe if none of the above solutions work and you really want to keep your projector, I suggest you to look at a better AT screen. While ST makes good screens, their AT screens are not as good as their non AT screens. And if you want to spend money on better AT screen that will help with moire, and you could try this if you have little money and not want to spend alot on AT screens is some little DIY. You can buy white spandex or microperf screen and keep your ST velvet frame. Not sure if anyone has tried that but that is what I would do if I were saving money and didn't want to spend few thousand on nice AT screen. I'd just keep the ST and do DIY screen with same ST frame. Let us know how the 3rd screen works for you? (3rd times the charm is what they say!)


Those are really good suggestions. Thank you. I will not be returning the projector (as long as the problem is not with the projector), so I have to try other screens. Being in Canada the other options i have are Elite AT screen, Elunevision (expensive -but money back guarantee), Cinemachoice (however, they do not make in the size I can fit) AT screen. I can also go the DIY route (although will need my thinking cap on + help from AVS members ). I don't think anyone in AVS has tried this, I saw someone asking the same questions in AVS recently - using old ST frame with spandex DIY..


----------



## Dominic Chan

busybe said:


> I don't think anyone in AVS has tried this, I saw someone asking the same questions in AVS recently - using old ST frame with spandex DIY..


I have not tried spandex, but have made a screen to replace the ST matte white material. With the right adhesive and assuming a single layer material, it's a relatively straightforward process.


----------



## busybe

Dominic Chan said:


> I have not tried spandex, but have made a screen to replace the ST matte white material. With the right adhesive and assuming a single layer material, it's a relatively straightforward process.


That's nice to know. I may get tips from you if/when required.


----------



## Dws6

Dominic Chan said:


> No, "rotating along the verical axis" means turning it left or right (yaw), not tilting it up and down (pitch).
> 
> See the illustration roll-pitch-and-yaw
> 
> It's worth trying.




This is what I suggested earlier....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

Dws6 said:


> This is what I suggested earlier....


It would be interesting to confirm if it removes the moire, but I don't consider it a "solution" as rotating it would create keystone distortion.


----------



## Dws6

Dominic Chan said:


> It would be interesting to confirm if it removes the moire, but I don't consider it a "solution" as rotating it would create keystone distortion.




I suspect that if zoom or refocusing is enough to change or remove it that a very small shift 1-2deg in yaw could fix it. Over zoom the image a tad past the boarders with a little keystone correction and it might not even be noticeable. How do we know the projector is even square now?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

Dws6 said:


> How do we know the projector is even square now?


I can't speak for the OP, but when I set up my projector, I make sure the left and right sides of the projected image have the same height, that guarantees it has the correct yaw. Similarly, if the top and bottom edges have the same width, then the pitch is correctly set.
It is very sensitive, as a very small change in angle will make the geometric distortion visible.
In general, one should avoid using the projector's keystone correction as that degrades the image quality.


----------



## busybe

Dws6 said:


> I suspect that if zoom or refocusing is enough to change or remove it that a very small shift 1-2deg in yaw could fix it. Over zoom the image a tad past the boarders with a little keystone correction and it might not even be noticeable. How do we know the projector is even square now?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have tried that. It does not help. I have to zoom all the way, past the borders onto the side walls to see moire decrease. Similarly, a very small image on the screen, and again moire decreases. 

I will play around with yaw this weekend when i get time, but I am pretty sure I have done that as well. Will all this, I would like to avoid keystone if possible and hence I am willing to try their screen 3rd time with a hope it works.


----------



## danielrg

I assume this is sort of the "official" thread for Silver Ticket Screens?

I just purchased one for my room. I was going to get a Carada CCW, but they discontinued the CCW material and I think the BW is too warm for my tastes.

So I got the Silver Ticket Screen. 16:9, 110", Matte White.

Build quality is good, I appreciated that. For $260, it is a really good deal. Is it a Carada? No. Having seen my friend's Carada, the Carada frame is a step up.

So in what ways is it different? (Just wanted to compare it to something)

1) Six piece instead of four piece. The Silver Ticket has two pieces each for the top and bottom. For the most part this is fine, but it is a little noticeable with lights on
2) The velvet is a little nicer on the Carada. This is for looks. During viewing it's sixes.
3) The packing on the Silver Ticket wasn't as good as I'd hoped. It left "bands" of crushed velvet on mine which are noticeable with the lights on. 
4) The velvet material, which is sticky on one side, wasn't put on perfectly, and some of the sticky came off on another piece it was packed with and left a line of glue on the velvet. I was sad but with effort was able to get it mostly off
5) The material on the Silver Ticket definitely beats blackout cloth (which I had before)! It has more pop and clarity
6) However, it didn't stretch quite tightly enough on the frame at the bottom, and is a little bubbly. This is noticeable with the lights on, but not with the projector on it. So that's acceptable.
7) Installation was not a breeze, but I avoided ruining my wall or anything like that. It can be (with much effort) slid horizontally so that's nice to center it.

I compared the Carada CCW and BW material to the Silver Ticket (taped them on the screen). The CCW material I liked slightly better, but if not comparing side by side, I don't think I could tell the difference. The BW was brighter, but also a tad warmer than CCW and BW material.

Overall, a great purchase for the price. While watching, this is 95% of what the Carada would have been. For 1/3 the cost. For good looks while the lights are on, it's about 1/2 what the Carada would have been. But still 1/3 the cost. So a great value.

Before I had blackout cloth stretched over a frame I built - no border. Having a black velvet border makes it seem nicer and classier, and makes the perceived black levels better.

I hope my impressions can be useful to someone!


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## bgeery

danielrg said:


> 6) However, it didn't stretch quite tightly enough on the frame at the bottom, and is a little bubbly. This is noticeable with the lights on, but not with the projector on it. So that's acceptable.


Assuming you attached things correctly, the material will smooth out as it relaxes. You can also use a hair dryer to speed things along.


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## Dws6

danielrg said:


> I assume this is sort of the "official" thread for Silver Ticket Screens?
> 
> 
> 
> I just purchased one for my room. I was going to get a Carada CCW, but they discontinued the CCW material and I think the BW is too warm for my tastes.
> 
> 
> 
> So I got the Silver Ticket Screen. 16:9, 110", Matte White.
> 
> 
> 
> Build quality is good, I appreciated that. For $260, it is a really good deal. Is it a Carada? No. Having seen my friend's Carada, the Carada frame is a step up.
> 
> 
> 
> So in what ways is it different? (Just wanted to compare it to something)
> 
> 
> 
> 1) Six piece instead of four piece. The Silver Ticket has two pieces each for the top and bottom. For the most part this is fine, but it is a little noticeable with lights on
> 
> 2) The velvet is a little nicer on the Carada. This is for looks. During viewing it's sixes.
> 
> 3) The packing on the Silver Ticket wasn't as good as I'd hoped. It left "bands" of crushed velvet on mine which are noticeable with the lights on.
> 
> 4) The velvet material, which is sticky on one side, wasn't put on perfectly, and some of the sticky came off on another piece it was packed with and left a line of glue on the velvet. I was sad but with effort was able to get it mostly off
> 
> 5) The material on the Silver Ticket definitely beats blackout cloth (which I had before)! It has more pop and clarity
> 
> 6) However, it didn't stretch quite tightly enough on the frame at the bottom, and is a little bubbly. This is noticeable with the lights on, but not with the projector on it. So that's acceptable.
> 
> 7) Installation was not a breeze, but I avoided ruining my wall or anything like that. It can be (with much effort) slid horizontally so that's nice to center it.
> 
> 
> 
> I compared the Carada CCW and BW material to the Silver Ticket (taped them on the screen). The CCW material I liked slightly better, but if not comparing side by side, I don't think I could tell the difference. The BW was brighter, but also a tad warmer than CCW and BW material.
> 
> 
> 
> Overall, a great purchase for the price. While watching, this is 95% of what the Carada would have been. For 1/3 the cost. For good looks while the lights are on, it's about 1/2 what the Carada would have been. But still 1/3 the cost. So a great value.
> 
> 
> 
> Before I had blackout cloth stretched over a frame I built - no border. Having a black velvet border makes it seem nicer and classier, and makes the perceived black levels better.
> 
> 
> 
> I hope my impressions can be useful to someone!




To get it to slid easier I just shot the track with a little WD40 and the brackets stopped getting wedged and stuck. A little white lithium grease would be better but I didnt have any. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## nigwhyritos

Crap, I wish I would have read this thread all the way through. I just purchased the 138" curved AT screen. 
reading over the posts the majority of you are saying the AT screens are not that good and people are having issues.
it already arrived. I was planning on installing next weekend as I got other projects to finish up in the house this weekend.
I hope I'm satisfied with it. Epson 6020ub 18-21 ft, throw distance and Runco ISCO II Anamorphic lens.


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## brian6751

nigwhyritos said:


> Crap, I wish I would have read this thread all the way through. I just purchased the 138" curved AT screen.
> reading over the posts the majority of you are saying the AT screens are not that good and people are having issues.
> it already arrived. I was planning on installing next weekend as I got other projects to finish up in the house this weekend.
> I hope I'm satisfied with it. Epson 6020ub 18-21 ft, throw distance and Runco ISCO II Anamorphic lens.


I'm not sure where that is coming from. Most of the opinions I have read are positive as long as you are far enough from the screen so that you don't see the weave. There is one story of possible moire, but its not certain what the exact cause is. I would put up the screen and judge for yourself. Just make sure to keep in mind that you may return it as your unpacking it.(which you should always do anyway)I have not put mine together yet but I have seen one at a friends house and that's what swayed me to get one.


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## danielrg

bgeery said:


> Assuming you attached things correctly, the material will smooth out as it relaxes. You can also use a hair dryer to speed things along.


Yes - I saw the hair dryer trick and tried it out today. Worked nicely! The wrinkles are pretty much gone where I "sped things along".

Definitely been enjoying the screen.


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## busybe

nigwhyritos said:


> Crap, I wish I would have read this thread all the way through. I just purchased the 138" curved AT screen.
> reading over the posts the majority of you are saying the AT screens are not that good and people are having issues.
> it already arrived. I was planning on installing next weekend as I got other projects to finish up in the house this weekend.
> I hope I'm satisfied with it. Epson 6020ub 18-21 ft, throw distance and Runco ISCO II Anamorphic lens.


I have not read any negative reviews (other than mine of course ) as such. So, definitely give it a try. You have a great projector to support it. The customer service is exceptional.


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## busybe

Dws6 said:


> I suspect that if zoom or refocusing is enough to change or remove it that a very small shift 1-2deg in yaw could fix it. Over zoom the image a tad past the boarders with a little keystone correction and it might not even be noticeable. How do we know the projector is even square now?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





Dominic Chan said:


> It would be interesting to confirm if it removes the moire, but I don't consider it a "solution" as rotating it would create keystone distortion.


Ok, so got good time to play around this weekend with my projector. No yaw, roll, pitch could let the moire disappear. The only thing it did was change the shape/size of the moire 

Still waiting for the receipt of the screen (hasn't shipped yet).


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## nigwhyritos

Well finally got a chance to sit down and start putting my screen together. 1 instructions showing parts list of stuff I don't have. So I went to YouTube and watching some guy put it together with classical music playing 2 I don't see any washers or nuts /bolts . I hope those are not supposed to be included Home Depot already closed . I'm just about to take the screen out the box now. Frame is together


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## nigwhyritos

The drama keeps coming okay now I rolled out the screen. And I see a small pen mark also not sure which side is front and back. I got the AT screen so no black backing attached to screen. I'm guessing the stitches face me so the stitches are the back of the screen. Or with AT screen it don't matter


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## brian6751

nigwhyritos said:


> The drama keeps coming okay now I rolled out the screen. And I see a small pen mark also not sure which side is front and back. I got the AT screen so no black backing attached to screen. I'm guessing the stitches face me so the stitches are the back of the screen. Or with AT screen it don't matter


Any stitching should be on the back side of the screen. 


I had a chance to see my friends AT Silver Ticket screen again this weekend. None of us could see the weave even at 9.5' back. This is in a light controlled room with mostly light walls and ceiling. Projector was a Epson 5030UB.


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## busybe

nigwhyritos said:


> Well finally got a chance to sit down and start putting my screen together. 1 instructions showing parts list of stuff I don't have. So I went to YouTube and watching some guy put it together with classical music playing 2 I don't see any washers or nuts /bolts . I hope those are not supposed to be included Home Depot already closed . I'm just about to take the screen out the box now. Frame is together





nigwhyritos said:


> The drama keeps coming okay now I rolled out the screen. And I see a small pen mark also not sure which side is front and back. I got the AT screen so no black backing attached to screen. I'm guessing the stitches face me so the stitches are the back of the screen. Or with AT screen it don't matter


Hello Nigwhyritos, the side where there is a cut to insert the white rod is the back side. Your package should have come with black cloth to screw it after the screen is installed.

The AT screen comes with 2 sets of brackets. one set for the top to hang and 2nd set to secure the screen from the bottom. Let me know if you want me to send you the link to video on how to install.


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## busybe

Ok, so the screen arrived and I had a chance to install and watch couple movies. I am happy to say that this cut is much better than the previous 2. The moire is visible (only in some area of the screen- top half, starts may be a feet and half from left and runs around 2 feet from there) in very bright light scene, such as sky, very light background, but not as bad as the previous 2 screen. 

I believe ST has done enough to help me. I will just keep this screen until it really starts bothering me (which it has not in the couple movies I saw) and get another brand or, I drill new holes on my ceiling and bring the projector mount a bit farther from the screen to zoom more (I don't want to do this).

The end result, much much better than the first 2 tries!

Thank you all(Especially Dominic Chan) for your help and guidance through out this month or more. I learnt a lot!



Dominic Chan said:


> It would be interesting to confirm if it removes the moire, but I don't consider it a "solution" as rotating it would create keystone distortion.





ereed said:


> @busybe if none of the above solutions work and you really want to keep your projector, I suggest you to look at a better AT screen. While ST makes good screens, their AT screens are not as good as their non AT screens. And if you want to spend money on better AT screen that will help with moire, and you could try this if you have little money and not want to spend alot on AT screens is some little DIY. You can buy white spandex or microperf screen and keep your ST velvet frame. Not sure if anyone has tried that but that is what I would do if I were saving money and didn't want to spend few thousand on nice AT screen. I'd just keep the ST and do DIY screen with same ST frame. Let us know how the 3rd screen works for you? (3rd times the charm is what they say!)


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## Dominic Chan

busybe said:


> I believe ST has done enough to help me.


I too have found ST to provide excellent customer service.



> I will just keep this screen until it really starts bothering me (which it has not in the couple movies I saw) and get another brand or, I drill new holes on my ceiling and bring the projector mount a bit farther from the screen to zoom more (I don't want to do this).


If the moire pattern is now "localized" then there's a chance you can reduce it further by readjusting the springs, or flipping the screen material upside down.



> Thank you all(Especially Dominic Chan) for your help and guidance through out this month or more. I learnt a lot!


Glad to be able to help. That's what the forum is all about.


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## blkz06

I finally got in touch with ST's customer service dept, and yes they were very helpful. After sending them 7-8 photos of my screen with all the wrinkles and creases, they agreed to send me another screen...they even 2nd day FED'exed to me.

Unfortunately, the new screen is even worse than the first one. Customer service wants me to use a blow dryer to remove the wrinkles, but the wrinkles are extremely deep and across the top and bottom of the screen....approx 40% of the screen is wrinkled. Again..who the hell has 5-6 hours to blow dry their screen?? LOL. 

Some other issues outside of the screen material: the middle support bar was too long, causing the screen to bow down/outwards along the bottom edge (which I discovered during projector setup), the velour was iffy (some of it was not bonded to the aluminum), and I had to do a fair amount of tweaking to square the frame (it was out by over 1/2" when using the 45 degree cut edges as a reference).

Now..from 12-15 feet away, the frame and screen look great. For 250 bucks...have at it...its ok for 250 bucks. But I can't live with the screen imperfections. They are deep imperfections and can be seen when the projector is on.

I'm glad lots of people in this thread had a good experience with this screen..I am not one of them.

Amazon is taking the ST back, and I went ahead and ponied up the money and bought a name brand screen...hopefully it goes along much better than this experience.


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## busybe

blkz06 said:


> I finally got in touch with ST's customer service dept, and yes they were very helpful. After sending them 7-8 photos of my screen with all the wrinkles and creases, they agreed to send me another screen...they even 2nd day FED'exed to me.
> 
> Unfortunately, the new screen is even worse than the first one. Customer service wants me to use a blow dryer to remove the wrinkles, but the wrinkles are extremely deep and across the top and bottom of the screen....approx 40% of the screen is wrinkled. Again..who the hell has 5-6 hours to blow dry their screen?? LOL.
> 
> Some other issues outside of the screen material: the middle support bar was too long, causing the screen to bow down/outwards along the bottom edge (which I discovered during projector setup), the velour was iffy (some of it was not bonded to the aluminum), and I had to do a fair amount of tweaking to square the frame (it was out by over 1/2" when using the 45 degree cut edges as a reference).
> 
> Now..from 12-15 feet away, the frame and screen look great. For 250 bucks...have at it...its ok for 250 bucks. But I can't live with the screen imperfections. They are deep imperfections and can be seen when the projector is on.
> 
> I'm glad lots of people in this thread had a good experience with this screen..I am not one of them.
> 
> Amazon is taking the ST back, and I went ahead and ponied up the money and bought a name brand screen...hopefully it goes along much better than this experience.


Thanks for sharing your experience. So which screen did you end up buying?


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## busybe

Dominic Chan said:


> I too have found ST to provide excellent customer service.
> 
> 
> If the moire pattern is now "localized" then there's a chance you can reduce it further by readjusting the springs, or flipping the screen material upside down.
> 
> 
> Glad to be able to help. That's what the forum is all about.


You bring a good point of readjusting the springs, to stretch/un stretch a bit and see how it works out.. I think its a great idea.. I may also test by flipping the screen as well and see how/where the moire occurs..


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## blkz06

busybe said:


> Thanks for sharing your experience. So which screen did you end up buying?


I went with a Stewart.


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## blkz06

In case anyone is interested...Amazon called me today and said not to bother to return the screen and frame to them. Just throw it away. They consider it defective and have already been reimbursed by Silver Ticket.

If anyone is close to my area and wants it, or wants to pay for shipping and boxing to get a basically free screen, PM me.

90% of the screen wrinkles are out now.


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## BMac1203

blkz06 said:


> In case anyone is interested...Amazon called me today and said not to bother to return the screen and frame to them. Just throw it away. They consider it defective and have already been reimbursed by Silver Ticket.
> 
> If anyone is close to my area and wants it, or wants to pay for shipping and boxing to get a basically free screen, PM me.
> 
> 90% of the screen wrinkles are out now.


Where are you located?


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## blkz06

BMac1203 said:


> Where are you located?


SC


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## FIQBAL

socal swagger said:


> I have the opportunity to go bigger given the bigger iam buying. I have a 120 jamestown and posted for sale looking at 150 silver ticket thru amazon. Question now is how is the quality and ease of assembly of the ST. Unit



I have 135 inch 16:9 screen for my projector set up. Product quality is top notch and easy to set up. Took about 30-40 mins for Handyman and me to assemble and hang in the wall. You can assemble the screen by yourself but would need another person to hang it in the wall. There are several youtube posts that you can refer for set up instructions. Posting from work so cannot provide youtube link.


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## Jonmx

blkz06 said:


> In case anyone is interested...Amazon called me today and said not to bother to return the screen and frame to them. Just throw it away. They consider it defective and have already been reimbursed by Silver Ticket.
> 
> If anyone is close to my area and wants it, or wants to pay for shipping and boxing to get a basically free screen, PM me.
> 
> 90% of the screen wrinkles are out now.


What size and screen type? I was about to buy one today.


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## blkz06

It's 120" white 1.0 gain, thin bezel.


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## Jonmx

blkz06 said:


> It's 120" white 1.0 gain, thin bezel.


That sounds exactly what I needed. I would gladly pay for shipping/boxing and throw in $20 extra for your trouble.


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## blkz06

PM me and we will get it worked out!


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## Jonmx

PM sent. Kind of excited. Just started putting all this together this week for our new house and things are coming together well. Picked up the Pioneer SP-PK52FS 5.1 Speaker package on Cyber Monday special plus added an extra pair of surrounds. Then and got a pretty good deal on a Marantz NR1607. This screen was just what I was looking for and now need to find a good deal on a projector and I will be set. Let the construction begin!


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## Viche

I haven't seen mention of people getting the 2.35:1 aspect ratio Matte white screen lately. Any issues with that aspect ratio screen/frame?

Also, has anyone done any tests of this material versus something perfectly flat like a piece of paper for 4K or fauxK resolution? Does the slight pebbling affect resolution?


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## Dominic Chan

Viche said:


> Also, has anyone done any tests of this material versus something perfectly flat like a piece of paper for 4K or fauxK resolution? Does the slight pebbling affect resolution?


They have the 1.3 gain material that's perfectly smooth. Currently sold out, however.
https://silverticketproducts.com/products/str-62wmaterial?variant=2657438979


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## rflores2323

blkz06 said:


> In case anyone is interested...Amazon called me today and said not to bother to return the screen and frame to them. Just throw it away. They consider it defective and have already been reimbursed by Silver Ticket.
> 
> If anyone is close to my area and wants it, or wants to pay for shipping and boxing to get a basically free screen, PM me.
> 
> 90% of the screen wrinkles are out now.


Just sent you PM via tapatalk. Please check it. Thanks 

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk


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## Viche

Dominic Chan said:


> They have the 1.3 gain material that's perfectly smooth. Currently sold out, however.
> https://silverticketproducts.com/products/str-62wmaterial?variant=2657438979


Interesting. Thanks for the info. Not sure I'd want a 1.3 gain though. This screen will be used in a windowless room with dark carpeting, dark grey walls and ceiling (above the screen). I'll most likely be using the Epson 5040, so the extra brightness would help with HDR, but I'm concerned about the possible uneven brightness (hot-spotting) and reduced black levels that a 1.3 gain might cause, even if slightly. I've seen this projector on an ambient light rejecting screen and the blacks looked incredible; not sure that I want to go in the other direction.

Do you think the difference in resolution would be apparent between the two materials at 1 to 1.3 Xs viewing distance?


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## ereed

Viche said:


> Interesting. Thanks for the info. Not sure I'd want a 1.3 gain though. This screen will be used in a windowless room with dark carpeting, dark grey walls and ceiling (above the screen). I'll most likely be using the Epson 5040, so the extra brightness would help with HDR, but I'm concerned about the possible uneven brightness (hot-spotting) and reduced black levels that a 1.3 gain might cause, even if slightly. I've seen this projector on an ambient light rejecting screen and the blacks looked incredible; not sure that I want to go in the other direction.
> 
> Do you think the difference in resolution would be apparent between the two materials at 1 to 1.3 Xs viewing distance?


In a complete light controlled room you are better with white screen with gain of 1.0 to 1.1. Your projector is plenty bright and do not need a higher gain.


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## Viche

ereed said:


> In a complete light controlled room you are better with white screen with gain of 1.0 to 1.1. Your projector is plenty bright and do not need a higher gain.


Yeah that's what I figured. Just concerned about the slight pebbling of the ST Matte white reducing my ROI after spending extra for fauxK.


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## ereed

Viche said:


> Yeah that's what I figured. Just concerned about the slight pebbling of the ST Matte white reducing my ROI after spending extra for fauxK.


The faux or 4K just means smaller pixels so you don't se it if you are so close to the screen, this wouldn't affect the normal slightly texture ST screen unless you can actually see the texture from where you sit. Now there are screens that are perfectly textureless but you would have to spend alot more!

Yes, the ST has very slight texture which is normal for most screens. Even very high end stewart has slight texture as well. But you won't or shouldn't see the texture from your viewing distance. Now imagine people using AT screens and still get good picture, so while using normal low texture non AT screen it will still be smoother than AT screen so you shouldn't have to worry about anything. I'm using non AT 120 inch screen white 1.1 and its fantanstic! Here is review to show where ST screen ranks with the big boys that cost much more! While there are better screens out there, you would have to spend thousands to see the difference.

http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-projector-screen/


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## Eric_Connelly

For those who bought one if you had a defective part, did they just replace the part or send you a whole new package, I bought off Amazon.

The 2 bars for the bottom/top bar were not threaded all the way through. I'll probably try to re-tap them but if that doesn't work I'd just rather replace those two parts.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Viche said:


> Interesting. Thanks for the info. Not sure I'd want a 1.3 gain though. This screen will be used in a windowless room with dark carpeting, dark grey walls and ceiling (above the screen). I'll most likely be using the Epson 5040, so the extra brightness would help with HDR, but I'm concerned about the possible uneven brightness (hot-spotting) and reduced black levels that a 1.3 gain might cause, even if slightly.


With the Epson 5040UB, you shouldn't need the extra brightness from the 1.3 gain screen material. I was only suggesting it for its super smooth surface.
With a modest gain, uneven brightness has not been an issue (unlike the ST ALR screen). BTW, by "reduced black levels", you probably meant to say "_raised_ black levels" which would be undesirable.



> I've seen this projector on an ambient light rejecting screen and the blacks looked incredible; not sure that I want to go in the other direction.


Most people assumed that a higher gain screen will lead to worse (higher) black levels, but that's not necessarily true. There are two factors working against each other:

1. A higher gain screen will indeed produce worse black levels,* if* the black floor is limited by the ambient light (existing or secondary reflection from the screen). That is the situation where a low gain ALR screen will help.

2. On the other hand, in a true bat cave where the black floor is limited by the projector's contrast ratio, then the higher gain screen will actually produce *better *(lower) black levels. This may seem counter-intuitive, but with a higher gain screen you would close the iris to achieve the same white point (e.g., 50 cd/m^2). In doing so, the contrast ratio of the projector improves, meaning the black level is reduced proportionately more than the white level.
Whether you get a net increase or decrease, depends on which of the two factors is predominant.


----------



## Viche

Dominic Chan said:


> With the Epson 5040UB, you shouldn't need the extra brightness from the 1.3 gain screen material. I was only suggesting it for its super smooth surface.
> With a modest gain, uneven brightness has not been an issue (unlike the ST ALR screen). BTW, by "reduced black levels", you probably meant to say "_raised_ black levels" which would be undesirable.
> 
> 
> Most people assumed that a higher gain screen will lead to worse (higher) black levels, but that's not necessarily true. There are two factors working against each other:
> 
> 1. A higher gain screen will indeed produce worse black levels,* if* the black floor is limited by the ambient light (existing or secondary reflection from the screen). That is the situation where a low gain ALR screen will help.
> 
> 2. On the other hand, in a true bat cave where the black floor is limited by the projector's contrast ratio, then the higher gain screen will actually produce *better *(lower) black levels. This may seem counter-intuitive, but with a higher gain screen you would close the iris to achieve the same white point (e.g., 50 cd/m^2). In doing so, the contrast ratio of the projector improves, meaning the black level is reduced proportionately more than the white level.
> Whether you get a net increase or decrease, depends on which of the two factors is predominant.


Extra brightness might help in that no projector (at east anywhere near this price range) is capable of the type of brightness necessary for HDR, but yes, I was concerned with raised black level. I will not have a complete velvet lined bat cave, so I'm not sure if ambient light from reflections will create a black floor above what the 5040 is cable of.

I'm still interested is now a non-perfectly flat surface affects resolution.


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## Eric_Connelly

I emailed Silver Ticket at 9:40pm EST and they got right back to me. They offered to overnight me the parts I needed but I asked them what the screw/pitch size was. They gave me that info and I just retapped the holes myself.

Did not take long to put together, pretty simple overall. Used a T-square to make sure it was all good. I do have some bunching/wrinkling in the very lower left corner. We'll see if it works itself out but otherwise its perfect.

Hang it tomorrow and project should be here Saturday if all goes well. 

I went with Grey 1.0 because we do want to use it if we have people over and lights are on in the room. Not sure if it was the best choice but we shall see.


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## dmendro

So, a quick question. Right now I have a pull down screen, and I'm moving into a new house with a much bigger wall area. I am looking at the Silver Screen 135" screen. The wall I'm looking to use has grommets for equipment, as well as two electrical outlets. Is this screen flush to the wall so that I would have to remove these things prior to installation, or will it slide over the wall plates for the electrical and grommets? Thanks in advance.


----------



## Dominic Chan

dmendro said:


> The wall I'm looking to use has grommets for equipment, as well as two electrical outlets. Is this screen flush to the wall so that I would have to remove these things prior to installation, or will it slide over the wall plates for the electrical and grommets?


The screen hangs on the wall with 4 keyhole brackets. It's meant to be flush but there are no issues if you leave a small gap. Not only that, only the frame itself touches the wall, so if your grommets and outlets do not line up with the frame they will not even interfere.


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## Baxter

I just put up an AT screen, 135" I leisurely assembled it while watching football on Sunday - it was not difficult at all, and I didn't have any issue with the vertical supports.

The black backing comes with no way to attach it, so that's something I need to deal with still. I think I have an eyelet puncher around here somewhere.

I replaced a cheap vinyl screen from Carl's Place which I was perfectly happy with. The Silver Ticket screen seems to pick up ambient light more, it must have a higher gain. So I need to keep the room darker than I used to. It does look better than my old screen.

I sit about 9 feet away and I don't see any of the weave at all. Granted I am using a 7 year old 720p projector. I had very, very, very slight wrinkles on day 1, but I haven't noticed them since.

This was all done because I got 3 identical Klipsch towers from Best Buy black friday to use, and I am so happy with the sound. I had my center on the floor before and tilted up, but the dialogue always sounded like it was coming from the floor.

I'm sure the more expensive screens would be better, but I'll spend that money on a projector upgrade instead.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Baxter said:


> The black backing comes with no way to attach it, so that's something I need to deal with still. I think I have an eyelet puncher around here somewhere.


They have a Youtube video showing how to attach the black backing:


----------



## T-Bone

Is anyone experiencing a sagging frame? I noticed a few reviews on Amazon where some said the frame was sagging... especially in the corners. So that has me concerned.

I currently have a 12 year old DIY 110" 16x9 screen... Looking to move to 135"....

-T


----------



## Dominic Chan

T-Bone said:


> Is anyone experiencing a sagging frame? I noticed a few reviews on Amazon where some said the frame was sagging... especially in the corners. So that has me concerned.


The frame is mounted to the wall using 4 keyhole brackets that you can slide along for the optimal mounting. Unless the brackets are placed really close to the middle, I don't see how the corners can sag.
However, if the centre brace is not installed, the middle can bow inwards slightly from the screen tension, which may make it look like the corners are sagged.


----------



## Delta1142

dmendro said:


> So, a quick question. Right now I have a pull down screen, and I'm moving into a new house with a much bigger wall area. I am looking at the Silver Screen 135" screen. The wall I'm looking to use has grommets for equipment, as well as two electrical outlets. Is this screen flush to the wall so that I would have to remove these things prior to installation, or will it slide over the wall plates for the electrical and grommets? Thanks in advance.


We have the Silver Screen 150" wall mounted screen and the frame itself touches the wall, but the screen material itself is not flush against the wall - there's about an inch of space between the wall and the back of the screen. We have a thin cabinet door on the wall that our screen is mounted over and it's not an issue and not visible or bulging out in that area.


----------



## T-Bone

Dominic Chan said:


> T-Bone said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is anyone experiencing a sagging frame? I noticed a few reviews on Amazon where some said the frame was sagging... especially in the corners. So that has me concerned.
> 
> 
> 
> The frame is mounted to the wall using 4 keyhole brackets that you can slide along for the optimal mounting. Unless the brackets are placed really close to the middle, I don't see how the corners can sag.
> However, if the centre brace is not installed, the middle can bow inwards slightly from the screen tension, which may make it look like the corners are sagged.
Click to expand...

Thanks for replying. That's a good point you made with the placement of the brackets. I did not even think of that. That would explain it.

-T


----------



## CONECO

Has anyone tried their new high contrast model. i have had their white one for a year but looking to try either HC or Grey since i have some ambient light and white walls and cieling.

I have sony 40es and colors look great but would like a little better blacks and hoping darker screen will help

STR-169120-HC Silver Ticket 4K Ultra HD Ready Cinema Format (6 Piece Fixed Frame) Projector Screen (16:9, 120", High Contrast Material)

STR-169120-HC-Silver-Ticket-Cinema-Projector/dp/B01N3PXZ3K/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8


----------



## ereed

Has anyone done any DIY velvet masking on 16x9 screen for scope movie material? Looking for ideas if anyone has done any to their ST screens. While the ST screens have velvet borders looking something to fit flush to the screen if possible with minimal work.


----------



## bgeery

T-Bone said:


> Thanks for replying. That's a good point you made with the placement of the brackets. I did not even think of that. That would explain it.


Yup. I think those that had a problem failed to place the screws in the correct place for the brackets. It's either 1/4 or 1/3 in from the screen edge. 

Three other place to go wrong:

1.Not butting the edges tightly, of the 2-part top and bottom pieces, before locking them together.

2. Not installing the center bar in place, and moving into place right at the joint between the the 2-part top and bottom pieces.

3. Possibly, on the largest screens, not using both the bottom and top hanging brackets to hang it from the wall. 120" and small probably only needs the top brackets,

Assembly is simple, but does require care in thinking about what you're doing.


----------



## karguy08

just wanted to say thanks for all the good info in this thread. I am likely to buy a screen in the next month or two and this is helpful.

I do have an outlet behind where I'm going to mount the screen. Since the outlet cover sticks out 1/16th" to 1/8" etc. from the wall, will it create a bulge in the screen or do the mounts allow it to hang off enough to not matter?


----------



## bgeery

karguy08 said:


> I do have an outlet... will it create a bulge


You're fine.


----------



## Dominic Chan

CONECO said:


> Has anyone tried their new high contrast model. i have had their white one for a year but looking to try either HC or Grey since i have some ambient light and white walls and cieling.


According to the reply from ST, the new High Contrast screen uses the same basic material as the matte white and matte grey, but slightly darker than the matte grey.


----------



## karguy08

bgeery said:


> You're fine.


thanks!


----------



## ereed

karguy08 said:


> just wanted to say thanks for all the good info in this thread. I am likely to buy a screen in the next month or two and this is helpful.
> 
> I do have an outlet behind where I'm going to mount the screen. Since the outlet cover sticks out 1/16th" to 1/8" etc. from the wall, will it create a bulge in the screen or do the mounts allow it to hang off enough to not matter?


On my 120 inch ST screen using the brackets brings the whole screen including frame out 1/2 inch from wall. And the screen is another 1/2 inch at least out from back of frame. So you have at least over 1 inch of clearance. You are good to go!


----------



## CONECO

Dominic Chan said:


> According to the reply from ST, the new High Contrast screen uses the same basic material as the matte white and matte grey, but slightly darker than the matte grey.


Thanks I ended up buying it, will post results later this week.


----------



## CONECO

CONECO said:


> Thanks I ended up buying it, will post results later this week.


Just an update amazon canceled my order for the High Contrast as they really don't have it in stock.


----------



## karguy08

ereed said:


> On my 120 inch ST screen using the brackets brings the whole screen including frame out 1/2 inch from wall. And the screen is another 1/2 inch at least out from back of frame. So you have at least over 1 inch of clearance. You are good to go!


Thanks!



CONECO said:


> Just an update amazon canceled my order for the High Contrast as they really don't have it in stock.


That's a disappointment; i'm surprised as Amazon is usually really good about "2 left in stock" etc. when purchasing.


----------



## Dominic Chan

CONECO said:


> Just an update amazon canceled my order for the High Contrast as they really don't have it in stock.


Any reason you're not ordering directly from Silver Ticket? Supposedly 5 in stock.
https://www.silverticketproducts.co...jector-screen-16-9-120-high-contrast-material


----------



## Patriot666

Anyone want my 92" grey ST screen? It's just been sitting around since I built my new screen. PM me if interested.


----------



## DevonJames5

Hi Patriot,

I'm very interested. I've been lurking on here for a while and your post convinced me to sign up, unfortunately, I cannot PM you as I have a new account...


----------



## gaming09

Birdybog said:


> Amazon has a Silver Ticket HDTV 16:9 120" Fixed Frame Projector Screen available at a very good price with excellent reviews but I can't find any reference to this screen anywhere in this forum. Is anyone here actually using one of these screens? I am building my multi-use basement and will be using a ceiling mounted BenQ W1070 projector. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.




go with a grey screen from ST those will give you better colors on a benq


----------



## Patriot666

DevonJames5 said:


> Hi Patriot,
> 
> 
> 
> I'm very interested. I've been lurking on here for a while and your post convinced me to sign up, unfortunately, I cannot PM you as I have a new account...




Alex42884 at gmail dot com


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 4fit?

Just purchased my first projector (Ben-Q HT2050) and plan to go with a Silver Ticket screen in either 130" 2.35 or 135" 16:9. I plan to sit down this evening and scan through this entire thread, but thought I would ask what the prevailing opinion is on Silver Ticket's acoustically transparent screens. I know their regular screens are pretty highly regarded in the budget section, but don't recall seeing too much on the AT ones.


----------



## brian6751

4fit? said:


> Just purchased my first projector (Ben-Q HT2050) and plan to go with a Silver Ticket screen in either 130" 2.35 or 135" 16:9. I plan to sit down this evening and scan through this entire thread, but thought I would ask what the prevailing opinion is on Silver Ticket's acoustically transparent screens. I know their regular screens are pretty highly regarded in the budget section, but don't recall seeing too much on the AT ones.


Yeah theres not a lot on their AT screens but I have seen one from a little over 9' and thought it looked great. Mine is sitting in the box still but I hope to have it up by the end of the weekend. Ill be sure to report back here.


----------



## airbag41

Patriot666 said:


> Anyone want my 92" grey ST screen? It's just been sitting around since I built my new screen. PM me if interested.


Is this ST screen still available? if so could you PM me?


----------



## Patriot666

airbag41 said:


> Is this ST screen still available? if so could you PM me?


PM sent.


----------



## freeride

4fit? said:


> Just purchased my first projector (Ben-Q HT2050) and plan to go with a Silver Ticket screen in either 130" 2.35 or 135" 16:9. I plan to sit down this evening and scan through this entire thread, but thought I would ask what the prevailing opinion is on Silver Ticket's acoustically transparent screens. I know their regular screens are pretty highly regarded in the budget section, but don't recall seeing too much on the AT ones.


Just bought the same projector on sale, and it looks amazing on my yellow-ish, textured wall. I'm setting up the ST 120" 16:9 tonight, and can't wait to see how it improves the picture.

My only concern is how durable the ST screen is. Can it take a hit from a nerf bullet without permanent denting? I have 3 boys, and a lot of Nerf guns.


----------



## ereed

freeride said:


> Just bought the same projector on sale, and it looks amazing on my yellow-ish, textured wall. I'm setting up the ST 120" 16:9 tonight, and can't wait to see how it improves the picture.
> 
> My only concern is how durable the ST screen is. Can it take a hit from a nerf bullet without permanent denting? I have 3 boys, and a lot of Nerf guns.


Screen material is very strong, but I wouldn't allow your boys to shoot nerf bullets to the screen. You don't want to end up having dents in your picture. Tell your boys no shooting near the scree to play it safe.


----------



## TheSeanO

freeride said:


> Just bought the same projector on sale, and it looks amazing on my yellow-ish, textured wall. I'm setting up the ST 120" 16:9 tonight, and can't wait to see how it improves the picture.
> 
> My only concern is how durable the ST screen is. Can it take a hit from a nerf bullet without permanent denting? I have 3 boys, and a lot of Nerf guns.


The screen seems like it is very pliable. I put up a 120" ST screen about 2 weeks ago by myself. The first attempt did not go well and I dropped the screen. It fell forward and landed on the corner of my center speaker, the screen stretched over it. I thought for sure that I had damaged the screen permanently. I quickly lifted the screen back up and put it on the wall. After I got everything set, I went to look for the damaged section and could not find it. I had the neighbor over later that night and he also could not find anything, I have been playing movies on it for about 2 weeks now with no issues. Not sure if I got lucky or the screen material is able to go back to its original shape after being stretched. 

Hope this helps. I would not shoot anything at it but, I would not think a Nerf gun would damage it if the corner of my speaker didn't.


----------



## jasonsong

freeride said:


> Just bought the same projector on sale, and it looks amazing on my yellow-ish, textured wall. I'm setting up the ST 120" 16:9 tonight, and can't wait to see how it improves the picture.
> 
> My only concern is how durable the ST screen is. Can it take a hit from a nerf bullet without permanent denting? I have 3 boys, and a lot of Nerf guns.


The material reminds me of of a heavier version of rain coats.
It's very dense elastic rubber kinda materiel.
Has the same smell too.
It will probably fine but you don't want to make your white screen dirty.


----------



## heron25

Just settled on the AT 120" 16:9 screen for my new HT. Going to use a Sony 45es for approximately 16' back in a completely light controlled room. Excited as heck once it's complete!


----------



## freeride

heron25 said:


> Just settled on the AT 120" 16:9 screen for my new HT. Going to use a Sony 45es for approximately 16' back in a completely light controlled room. Excited as heck once it's complete!


I got my whole room setup with the 120", 16:9 ST screen, BenQ HT2050 150" away, 5.1 surround, and it looks amazing! There is one black level that I can't seem to get calibrated on the Disney WOW calibration DVD, but all the other settings looks great and the picture is amazing. The screen was easy to setup, weighs almost nothing, and appears very durable. After 3 days of being up, I don't notice any smell.

My room is painted off white, and the picture still looks great. Ambient light from windows affects it, but nothing too significant. I was able to get the picture almost perfectly squared with the screen.

I'm very happy so far. I have a couple minor concerns with the BenQHT2050, but nothing I wouldn't expect from a projector at this price.


----------



## brian6751

heron25 said:


> Just settled on the AT 120" 16:9 screen for my new HT. Going to use a Sony 45es for approximately 16' back in a completely light controlled room. Excited as heck once it's complete!


I will be setting this exact combo up in my theater over the next couple of days. Ill report back during the weekend


----------



## heron25

brian6751 said:


> I will be setting this exact combo up in my theater over the next couple of days. Ill report back during the weekend


what speakers did you go with? I'm putting Klipsh THX in-walls in with in-ceiling atmos speakers.


----------



## brian6751

heron25 said:


> what speakers did you go with? I'm putting Klipsh THX in-walls in with in-ceiling atmos speakers.


My speakers are all DIYSoundgroup kits. Fusion-10 Pure's for LCR and Vot-6's for surrounds and Atmos.


----------



## gogunbaba

brian6751 said:


> I will be setting this exact combo up in my theater over the next couple of days. Ill report back during the weekend



Same here, I have the same combo and should be able to set it up in about 3 weeks. I plan to hang the sony 17ft from the screen.


----------



## T-Bone

I just picked up a 135 inch 16 by 9 screen. Just realized that I am not too thrilled with the mounting screws that came with the screen. And I'm also thinking it will be more difficult to line up or 4 screws so that the frame weight is equally spread out across for Mount points. 

What I would like to do is use two heavy duty wood screws that go into the stud at least one inch. Heavy duty meaning I believe it's number 12 wood screws. The two screws should be at the top of the frame naturally. I have everything measured off, and each top screw is about in the center of each of the small frame sections.

So I am wondering, or looking for a sanity check, if the bottom mount points can be disregarded in this case. I figure the frame should not droop because other way I spaced the mount points at the top. And there is that vertical stabilizer bar.

Thought?

-T


----------



## Dominic Chan

T-Bone said:


> I just picked up a 135 inch 16 by 9 screen. Just realized that I am not too thrilled with the mounting screws that came with the screen. And I'm also thinking it will be more difficult to line up or 4 screws so that the frame weight is equally spread out across for Mount points.


That would be impossible to achieve, and given the relatively light weight of the screen, should be an issue. I think using 4 screws is more to keep the screen from rattling.



> So I am wondering, or looking for a sanity check, if the bottom mount points can be disregarded in this case. I figure the frame should not droop because other way I spaced the mount points at the top. And there is that vertical stabilizer bar.


Many people use only the two top mounting points. Shouldn't be an issue.


----------



## brian6751

gogunbaba said:


> Same here, I have the same combo and should be able to set it up in about 3 weeks. I plan to hang the sony 17ft from the screen.





heron25 said:


> Just settled on the AT 120" 16:9 screen for my new HT. Going to use a Sony 45es for approximately 16' back in a completely light controlled room. Excited as heck once it's complete!


I have had my Sony 45es and 120" 16:9 AT screen up for a while and have been really impressed with it. The image looks great and my LCR sound great behind the screen. I am sitting barely 10' from the screen and do not notice any weave. There are a few wrinkles near the frame but ST is working with me to fix it and you cannot see them when watching. really happy so far. Havent tweaked the picture at all yet.





Sent from my ASUS_Z00AD using Tapatalk


----------



## muzz

My 106" ST AT screen is hanging from the ceiling on 2 hooks, and it works fine.
Love having speakers behind it.


----------



## T-Bone

Dominic Chan said:


> That would be impossible to achieve, and given the relatively light weight of the screen, should be an issue. I think using 4 screws is more to keep the screen from rattling.
> 
> 
> Many people use only the two top mounting points. Shouldn't be an issue.


Thanks. I used two 2 1/2" #10 wood screws in the top.... 1 1/2" of of the screws are in studs, so it's definitely not gonna fall.


-T


----------



## T-Bone

Just a quick note to affirm what others have said about side way positioning. My 16x9 135" screen would not slide left/right once mounted. The aluminium brackets bind to the frame and hinder sliding (for me, anyway). I needed to grab the top frame, and then jiggle it up/down as I pushed the frame either left or right. It would not slide otherwise. I also had to have 2 people holding the frame just in case I over-jiggled it so it would not come crashing down.

At $340, this is a really nice screen... and much better than my 110" painted DIY screen. That's my frame of reference: DIY. And paired to my Epson Powerlite Home Cinema 3010 on eco mode, it is amazing how bright the image still is on this screen at 135".

Just sharing...
-T


----------



## genesis_avs

Would some of you mind posting pictures of the corners and centers of the frames (after assembly) I would like to see how well the ends butt up to each other. Camera flash turned off would probably work best.


----------



## HT1956

Just purchased and assembled the Thin Line 92" with white screen. Went with Thin Line as I have limited space between in wall LCR channel speakers and the projector is low lumens for a larger AT screen. The ST screen color is off white almost towards a light grey with a matte finish.. I have a sample of the Elite Cinewhite on hand and in contrast, it is very white with a significantly higher sheen. Comparing to the Elite, the ST has better black contrast. The screen looks great with very nice colors balance in a dark theater room with 21ftL on it. In low ambient light with 25ftL on it is very good and the picture has good color and holds up well. Unless you have a light cannon I would not use it in a moderate or high ambient setting. 


The screen assembles easily and the corners match fine. Just need patience assembling and aligning the projector video image on the screen if you go edge less. Great look edgeless or with the thin line black border. . 


Down the road I will be looking for a good quality AT screen, projector and upgrading other parts of the system. For now it is a great step up for what is primarily a theater room from the from the 72" Wilson Art laminate screen that served us well while the kids were young and the room was mixed use. 


Great product at a great price!!


----------



## karguy08

T-Bone said:


> Just a quick note to affirm what others have said about side way positioning. My 16x9 135" screen would not slide left/right once mounted. The aluminium brackets bind to the frame and hinder sliding (for me, anyway). I needed to grab the top frame, and then jiggle it up/down as I pushed the frame either left or right. It would not slide otherwise. I also had to have 2 people holding the frame just in case I over-jiggled it so it would not come crashing down.
> 
> At $340, this is a really nice screen... and much better than my 110" painted DIY screen. That's my frame of reference: DIY. And paired to my Epson Powerlite Home Cinema 3010 on eco mode, it is amazing how bright the image still is on this screen at 135".
> 
> Just sharing...
> -T


I just took delivery of my 100" Cinewhite and can confirm the same thing about the brackets. I had to lift up and shimmy it left to right a bit. I really like it so far, but only watched for an hour or so while I was puttering around the basement. Quality of the screen and frame are quite nice.


----------



## qaiser007

I'm in the process of purchasing a Benq 3050 projector. The projector will be placed in a dedicated media room with controlled lights and dark grey walls and ceiling. I want to purchase a 120 inch ST screen. For my situation, should I get the white screen or spend extra and get the grey screen?


----------



## Dominic Chan

qaiser007 said:


> I'm in the process of purchasing a Benq 3050 projector. The projector will be placed in a dedicated media room with controlled lights and dark grey walls and ceiling. I want to purchase a 120 inch ST screen. For my situation, should I get the white screen or spend extra and get the grey screen?


In a dedicated light-controlled room, matte white would be the best choice.


----------



## Radio81

Does anyone have their new high contrast screen?

Sent from my LG-H900 using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

Radio81 said:


> Does anyone have their new high contrast screen?


I haven't used it, but in response to my query, Silver Ticket told me it's the same material as their grey and white screens, just darker (0.9 gain).


----------



## thedukeo8

I have the 120" Silver Ticket screen but for some reason paired with the Epson 6030 the image looks more grainy than my older set up. The pixels are just more noticeable. 

Older set up: 
Epson 8700ub
Homemade Screen made from Laminate Wilson Art Designer White


My question is: would the weave in the screen material contribute the grainy look? Don't get me wrong it still looks good, but I get distracted because I can see the pixels whereas with the older set up I couldn't at all. I am wondering since there was no weave at all in the laminate if that was why I didn't notice.


----------



## muzz

Probably the screen weave/texture. Some are better than others.


----------



## brian6751

thedukeo8 said:


> I have the 120" Silver Ticket screen but for some reason paired with the Epson 6030 the image looks more grainy than my older set up. The pixels are just more noticeable.
> 
> Older set up:
> Epson 8700ub
> Homemade Screen made from Laminate Wilson Art Designer White
> 
> 
> My question is: would the weave in the screen material contribute the grainy look? Don't get me wrong it still looks good, but I get distracted because I can see the pixels whereas with the older set up I couldn't at all. I am wondering since there was no weave at all in the laminate if that was why I didn't notice.



Is your screen AT? What is your seating distance?


----------



## thedukeo8

Screen is fixed and tensioned. Not entirely sure about the AT acronym. Seating distance may be about 8 feet. Was about the same with the old set up, though was at a different house.


----------



## Dominic Chan

thedukeo8 said:


> Screen is fixed and tensioned. Not entirely sure about the AT acronym. Seating distance may be about 8 feet. Was about the same with the old set up, though was at a different house.


The Silver Ticket AT (Acoustically Transparent) screen uses a woven material and 8 ft is somewhat too close and you may see the weave pattern.


----------



## ereed

thedukeo8 said:


> Screen is fixed and tensioned. Not entirely sure about the AT acronym. Seating distance may be about 8 feet. Was about the same with the old set up, though was at a different house.


AT = acoustic transparent. meaning you can put speakers behind screen. They will have holes/weaves on the material. The non AT screens are completely solid and can't put speakers behind the screen.


----------



## thedukeo8

Gotcha. I don't think it is Acoustically Transparent. I didn't specifically order that. Model Number: STR-169120

Doesn't specify AT.


----------



## Dominic Chan

thedukeo8 said:


> Gotcha. I don't think it is Acoustically Transparent. I didn't specifically order that. Model Number: STR-169120


The STR-169120 is the regular matte white screen.
I don't think it should be causing the "grainy look". You can try pasting a sheet of white paper on it and see if that shows less grain.


----------



## thedukeo8

Dominic Chan said:


> The Silver Ticket AT (Acoustically Transparent) screen uses a woven material and 8 ft is somewhat too close and you may see the weave pattern.





ereed said:


> AT = acoustic transparent. meaning you can put speakers behind screen. They will have holes/weaves on the material. The non AT screens are completely solid and can't put speakers behind the screen.





Dominic Chan said:


> The STR-169120 is the regular matte white screen.
> I don't think it should be causing the "grainy look". You can try pasting a sheet of white paper on it and see if that shows less grain.



Good idea. I'll try that and see if it helps. Thanks.


----------



## ereed

Try cleaning your screen with dust swifter or damp rag....I found mine had yellow dust on it when I got it. And if you turn lights off and shine projector and look at it from the sides you will see where dirt buildup is located. Just wipe it clean and see if that helps with graininess. If not, its possible it could be the projector but if you take white piece of paper like Dominic Chan suggested and paper put it on one corner of screen to see if you still see graininess. 

While I cleaned my screen I noticed there are very small squares on the whole screen but you can't see it from MLP, is that what you're seeing??? And does it do this on every movie? Some movies do look grainy such as Saving Private Ryan but I think they made it grainy on purpose to look like 1940s, but you shouldn't be seeing it normally. Let us know what you come up with.


----------



## thedukeo8

ereed said:


> Try cleaning your screen with dust swifter or damp rag....I found mine had yellow dust on it when I got it. And if you turn lights off and shine projector and look at it from the sides you will see where dirt buildup is located. Just wipe it clean and see if that helps with graininess. If not, its possible it could be the projector but if you take white piece of paper like Dominic Chan suggested and paper put it on one corner of screen to see if you still see graininess.
> 
> While I cleaned my screen I noticed there are very small squares on the whole screen but you can't see it from MLP, is that what you're seeing??? And does it do this on every movie? Some movies do look grainy such as Saving Private Ryan but I think they made it grainy on purpose to look like 1940s, but you shouldn't be seeing it normally. Let us know what you come up with.


So far it has been every movie including Big Hero 6 which is what worried me. I should see none of that in a fairly recent animated movie. I will try cleaning and the white paper. I appreciate it. Will report back.


----------



## bgeery

Also, don't overlook asking Silver Ticket. They have excellent customer service and probably have an idea or two.


----------



## T-Bone

thedukeo8 said:


> ereed said:
> 
> 
> 
> Try cleaning your screen with dust swifter or damp rag....I found mine had yellow dust on it when I got it. And if you turn lights off and shine projector and look at it from the sides you will see where dirt buildup is located. Just wipe it clean and see if that helps with graininess. If not, its possible it could be the projector but if you take white piece of paper like Dominic Chan suggested and paper put it on one corner of screen to see if you still see graininess.
> 
> While I cleaned my screen I noticed there are very small squares on the whole screen but you can't see it from MLP, is that what you're seeing??? And does it do this on every movie? Some movies do look grainy such as Saving Private Ryan but I think they made it grainy on purpose to look like 1940s, but you shouldn't be seeing it normally. Let us know what you come up with.
> 
> 
> 
> So far it has been every movie including Big Hero 6 which is what worried me. I should see none of that in a fairly recent animated movie. I will try cleaning and the white paper. I appreciate it. Will report back.
Click to expand...

I have the 135 incher... And eyes are 13.5 feet from screen. No graininess. And animations are superb. Just sharing. 

I would try the white paper trick before cleaning screen. Might save you some labor.

-T


----------



## dolphinc

T-Bone said:


> I have the 135 incher... And eyes are 13.5 feet from screen. No graininess. And animations are superb. Just sharing.
> 
> I would try the white paper trick before cleaning screen. Might save you some labor.
> 
> -T


I also have the 135" screen and I see no graininess at all, I sit about 13 feet from screen and have a Sony HW40 projector. I have owned several screens over the years and this has been by far the best screen.

I think it's good advise to call Silver Ticket and explain the situation, they are and excellent company and are sure to help.


----------



## wickedg8gt

Hey everyone. I just found out about this screen literally 10 minutes ago. And I plan on reading most of the 35 pages, but before I do, can anyone do a comparison to a Carada, Da-Lite, or a Draper screen? I'm moving and have to get rid of my 135in Carada Criterion BW screen (paired with an Epson 5010). The new living room/theatre room is smaller and can only get about 100 inch screen. I was looking at Draper and Da-Lite because their well known and have good screens. A nice gentlemen on here referred me to S.T.S and wonder how they compare. Thank you in advance for any help or advice?


----------



## Dominic Chan

wickedg8gt said:


> Hey everyone. I just found out about this screen literally 10 minutes ago. And I plan on reading most of the 35 pages, but before I do, can anyone do a comparison to a Carada, Da-Lite, or a Draper screen? I'm moving and have to get rid of my 135in Carada Criterion BW screen (paired with an Epson 5010). The new living room/theatre room is smaller and can only get about 100 inch screen. I was looking at Draper and Da-Lite because their well known and have good screens. A nice gentlemen on here referred me to S.T.S and wonder how they compare. Thank you in advance for any help or advice?


You can check out this review:

http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-projector-screen/


----------



## wickedg8gt

Dominic Chan said:


> You can check out this review:
> 
> http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-projector-screen/




Just read the whole thing. They gave it a lot of praise and basically said it beat out it's competitors in the range and even some competitors in the higher price range. Said it was even better than my Carada. Now that article has me extremely interested.


----------



## ereed

thedukeo8 said:


> So far it has been every movie including Big Hero 6 which is what worried me. I should see none of that in a fairly recent animated movie. I will try cleaning and the white paper. I appreciate it. Will report back.


Any updates?


----------



## thedukeo8

ereed said:


> Any updates?


It is definitely the projector. The weave on the screen is way too tight to be seen. Put the piece of paper up and same issue. Just getting a serious screen door effect with the Epson 6030. My room is a bit small, if I could sit further away I'm sure I wouldn't see it. Have to just wait until I can afford a 4K.


----------



## ereed

thedukeo8 said:


> It is definitely the projector. The weave on the screen is way too tight to be seen. Put the piece of paper up and same issue. Just getting a serious screen door effect with the Epson 6030. My room is a bit small, if I could sit further away I'm sure I wouldn't see it. Have to just wait until I can afford a 4K.


If you can't afford 4K and want an upgrade that is reasonable price is the sony 45es. No screen door effect. I'm sitting 13.5 feet away from 120 inch screen. Or you can keep yours til 4K becomes affordable but that will be 3 years or so at least for real 4K, not the faux 4k.

At least you found out where the issue was coming from.


----------



## thedukeo8

ereed said:


> If you can't afford 4K and want an upgrade that is reasonable price is the sony 45es. No screen door effect. I'm sitting 13.5 feet away from 120 inch screen. Or you can keep yours til 4K becomes affordable but that will be 3 years or so at least for real 4K, not the faux 4k.
> 
> At least you found out where the issue was coming from.


Absolutely, that's why I love this forum. 

Will probably just wait it out and try to ignore the pixels. Other than that one issue, I am enjoying the Epson.


----------



## wickedg8gt

After reading through majority of this thread, is anyone still having material issues between the 106 and 110 inch. Read where the 110 is not as sharp as the 106. As those will be one of the 2 sizes I go with. Thanks friends.


----------



## ereed

wickedg8gt said:


> After reading through majority of this thread, is anyone still having material issues between the 106 and 110 inch. Read where the 110 is not as sharp as the 106. As those will be one of the 2 sizes I go with. Thanks friends.


Its the same material just different sizes. Depends on how far you sit from screen. I sit 13 feet from my 120 inch screen and no issues. Wish I went little bigger.


----------



## wickedg8gt

ereed said:


> Its the same material just different sizes. Depends on how far you sit from screen. I sit 13 feet from my 120 inch screen and no issues. Wish I went little bigger.


Ok thank you. I read the whole thread the last 2 days because I'm highly considering it. But I saw someone I think around page 18 or so say the 106 and 110 were different. Said the 106 had a better picture. I'll try to find the quote and ask them. Trying to decide STS is good enough or if I need to spend a few hundred more and get a Dalite or Draper or something.


----------



## bgeery

IMO, try the ST screen first. Can always send it back to Amazon in the unlikely event it doesn't live up to your expectations.


----------



## Dominic Chan

wickedg8gt said:


> Ok thank you. I read the whole thread the last 2 days because I'm highly considering it. But I saw someone I think around page 18 or so say the 106 and 110 were different. Said the 106 had a better picture.


They may be using different material at different times, but it's not because of the size difference between 106 and 110.


----------



## WereWolf84

Dominic Chan said:


> They have the 1.3 gain material that's perfectly smooth. Currently sold out, however.
> https://silverticketproducts.com/products/str-62wmaterial?variant=2657438979


Do they have size larger than 62" x 111" ?


----------



## wickedg8gt

Sense/Net said:


> Figured I'd chime in with my experience with silver ticket screens.
> 
> I went with the Sony VPL-HW40ES, didn't want to spend months projector shopping so I bought what all were calling the best. My DIY screen was a fixed frame that hung from the ceiling in front of a window, but it looked way too small on the wall in the new room. After some research I found the Silver Ticket screens and ordered a 106". Great combo with the Sony, no issues, easy to put together, excellent picture.
> 
> But it still looked a bit too small on the wall. We sit about 13' back. Ordered a 110", it was even easier to put together since it uses L-brackets with screw holes instead of flat brackets over plastic Ls. I had to adjust the corners several times on the 106", it was finicky with the brackets. Not so with the 110". Size is now perfect for us for our seating distance.
> 
> All's good now, right? Nope. No matter what I do, the 110" is not as sharp as the 106". The 110" screen material is not the same as the 106", it has more texture, plus it hotspots right in the middle. Both screens are supposed to be matte white, but side by side the 110" is shinier than the 106". It got annoying enough that I took down the 110" and put back the 106". Got my sharpness back.
> 
> The 106" is still too small. Hmm. Ordered the raw material after reading the description on the website. When it came in the mail, I put it against the 110" screen and it made the 110" material look bluish. It was clearly more neutral white than the 110" screen. Promising. I cut just over the 110"s size, made rod pockets by folding over the edges and gluing them down with shower pan liner adhesive (it bonds vinyl to vinyl VERY well. Make sure to let it dry to tacky before letting it touch the other surface) Used a hole punch to make the cutouts for the tension posts. Let the adhesive set for a few hours before mounting it to the 110" frame.




Sorry guys for being so vague. First chance I've had to get to my computer. This is the quote I was talking about. about the 106 and 110 being different textures and material. I was just curious if anyone else experienced that problem.


----------



## muzz

My AT 106" was well worth it.
100 percent Neutral? I dunno, but pretty pleasing.


----------



## ereed

wickedg8gt said:


> Sorry guys for being so vague. First chance I've had to get to my computer. This is the quote I was talking about. about the 106 and 110 being different textures and material. I was just curious if anyone else experienced that problem.


Maybe tell us your seating distance....that will determine what size you should get. Its possible that person got a bad 110 inch screen. But normally there shouldn't be any difference other than the size itself.


----------



## wickedg8gt

ereed said:


> Maybe tell us your seating distance....that will determine what size you should get. Its possible that person got a bad 110 inch screen. But normally there shouldn't be any difference other than the size itself.


Ok. Thank you sir. Appreciate it. The seating distance is about 13ft and the projector will be ceiling mounted about 11.5ft or so from screen. I think 106 will be biggest I can go and still have a little over spill. But I'm going to measure again and see if I can get a 110.


----------



## ereed

wickedg8gt said:


> Ok. Thank you sir. Appreciate it. The seating distance is about 13ft and the projector will be ceiling mounted about 11.5ft or so from screen. I think 106 will be biggest I can go and still have a little over spill. But I'm going to measure again and see if I can get a 110.


I really think 106 is too small if you are sitting 13 feet away. But if you can't go bigger than gonna work with what you got. Make sure to keep it at low lamp, your throw ratio is gonna be pretty bright, which is a good thing.


----------



## wickedg8gt

ereed said:


> I really think 106 is too small if you are sitting 13 feet away. But if you can't go bigger than gonna work with what you got. Make sure to keep it at low lamp, your throw ratio is gonna be pretty bright, which is a good thing.


Yes sir, you are correct; if I can go bigger I will, but at this moment, its looking like 106-110 could be the biggest. I'm not sure what you mean about low lamp or throw ratio. I have an Epson 5020 that I always use the Livingroom Mode. I like a much brighter colorful picture.


----------



## ereed

wickedg8gt said:


> Yes sir, you are correct; if I can go bigger I will, but at this moment, its looking like 106-110 could be the biggest. I'm not sure what you mean about low lamp or throw ratio. I have an Epson 5020 that I always use the Livingroom Mode. I like a much brighter colorful picture.


Throw ratio = distance of projector lens to the screen. Smaller the throw ratio the brighter the image. And of course the smaller the screen the brighter the image as well. 

My throw ratio is 15 feet and I have 120 inch screen. I'm using low lamp mode which is bright enough for me. So in your case with smaller screen and projector being closer to the screen compared to mine your low lamp mode will probably be as bright or brighter than mine if I were to use high lamp mode. And using low lamp will prolong the life of the bulb as well.


----------



## Gothamite

muzz said:


> My 106" ST AT screen is hanging from the ceiling on 2 hooks, and it works fine.
> Love having speakers behind it.


I will buy fixed frame soon and because I need it hanging from the ceiling too, I'd appreciate if you could provide some pictures of how you managed it.
Also would it be possible to actually fold it on the ceiling while not in use?


----------



## ereed

Gothamite said:


> I will buy fixed frame soon and because I need it hanging from the ceiling too, I'd appreciate if you could provide some pictures of how you managed it.
> Also would it be possible to actually fold it on the ceiling while not in use?


Not sure what you mean by folding it on the ceiling. Fixed frame is fixed....can't actually fold it. Its fixed for a reason. Otherwise get motorized screen.


----------



## muzz

I think he means lift it up and clip it flat to ceiling when not it use. That could be done, I considered it myself, then decided against because speakers are behind mine anyway. I'll see what I can do about those pics you asked about Gotham.


----------



## ereed

muzz said:


> I think he means lift it up and clip it flat to ceiling when not it use. That could be done, I considered it myself, then decided against because speakers are behind mine anyway. I'll see what I can do about those pics you asked about Gotham.


Agghhh....I literally thought he meant folding it and its impossible.


----------



## Gothamite

ereed said:


> Agghhh....I literally thought he meant folding it and its impossible.


Haha nope, I meant exactly what *muzz* wrote.
It would help because my set up is in the living room and I don't have any option other than hanging from the ceiling. 
So when not in use I would actually, as *muzz* put it, lift it up and clip it flat to ceiling.

Also I don't think I want anything but fixed frame this time, because of the waves and horizontal memory lines issue with pull down screens. You can check my thread about it.
I know I have manual one, but not sure if electric would help with those issues as I've read they have those problems too.


----------



## Gothamite

muzz said:


> I think he means lift it up and clip it flat to ceiling when not it use. That could be done, I considered it myself, then decided against because speakers are behind mine anyway. I'll see what I can do about those pics you asked about Gotham.


Thanks,
Also, I asked this in my thread but figured I could find an answer here faster. 

Is it possible to re-assembly the screen if I need to move it to other house for example? Would doing that for 4-5 times a year for example damage the screen itself, like lose the quality or flatness?


----------



## Dominic Chan

Gothamite said:


> Is it possible to re-assembly the screen if I need to move it to other house for example? Would doing that for 4-5 times a year for example damage the screen itself, like lose the quality or flatness?


I have been swapping screen material multiple times and there's no adverse effects. The frame itself is held by metal screws and shouldn't have any issues with dis-assembly/re-assembly either.


----------



## bgeery

It can be used as such, but IMO would be a pain in the ass on any regular basis. Only worth it if moving residence from one house to another.


----------



## Gothamite

Dominic Chan said:


> I have been swapping screen material multiple times and there's no adverse effects. The frame itself is held by metal screws and *should* have any issues with dis-assembly/re-assembly either.


You meant shouldn't?

Also I wouldn't worry about frame, but what about screen material itself? It doesn't show any issues after all the stretching when re-assembling? It still keeps its flatness?

And yeah I wouldn't do it on regular daily basis, only when moving houses, like 5 times a year tops.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Gothamite said:


> You meant shouldn't?


Yes, typo corrected.


> Also I wouldn't worry about frame, but what about screen material itself? It doesn't show any issues after all the stretching when re-assembling? It still keeps its flatness?


It remained flat as long as you roll (as opposed to fold) the material when it's removed. It's not stretched beyond its 1st time dimension.


----------



## dolphinc

Gothamite said:


> You meant shouldn't?
> 
> Also I wouldn't worry about frame, but what about screen material itself? It doesn't show any issues after all the stretching when re-assembling? It still keeps its flatness?
> 
> And yeah I wouldn't do it on regular daily basis, only when moving houses, *like 5 times a year tops*.


You move 5 times a year?


----------



## Shinobi_cro

How is Silver Ticket compared to Dark Energy Abyss?


----------



## Gothamite

dolphinc said:


> You move 5 times a year?


Well I live in 2 different countries, so I like bringing pj with me if I stay longer than 1 month.

Also it's more like 3 times a year but sometimes it could be 5.
The reason I asked was because of how many times I could mess with re-assembling, without worrying about damaging the screen in any way.


----------



## bgeery

Keep original packaging, then reuse when transporting.


----------



## plcjohnson77

gnolivos said:


> The paper definitely reflects more light than the screen. I think your assumption here is that paper is 1.0 gain,I don't think that's true.
> I would say overall the screen reflects more light than my flat Matte white wall that I had before. It really is a decently bright screen, no problems there whatsoever


Hi, just wondering if you have been able to fix the moire problem. I have the 100" version with a W1070 and am seeing the vertical moire you are. I bought an Epson 3100 and it got much worse I believe based on the extra brightness of it. I have been researching different screen material to maybe replace it as it is a few months old and out of the return timeframe from Amazon. I returned the 3100 and was going to spring for the 5040UB or the JVC 400 to see if that would help.


----------



## plcjohnson77

Hi Brian, just wondering how you like your ST Acoustically Transparent screen. I currently have a W1070 with a ST 100" AT screen and am seeing moire like crazy. I purchased an Epson 3100 and it made it worse maybe because the Epson was so much brighter. I returned that and am now looking at either the 45ES or the 5040UB. I am 11' feet away from my screen.


----------



## gnolivos

Yes. I bought the Epson 5040 and because it has a finer pixel grid under 4k mode it completely takes care of the Moire issue. It's an awesome projector. Buy it. 
You can use 4k pixel grid even on 1080p content. 



plcjohnson77 said:


> gnolivos said:
> 
> 
> 
> The paper definitely reflects more light than the screen. I think your assumption here is that paper is 1.0 gain,I don't think that's true.
> I would say overall the screen reflects more light than my flat Matte white wall that I had before. It really is a decently bright screen, no problems there whatsoever
> 
> 
> 
> Hi, just wondering if you have been able to fix the moire problem. I have the 100" version with a W1070 and am seeing the vertical moire you are. I bought an Epson 3100 and it got much worse I believe based on the extra brightness of it. I have been researching different screen material to maybe replace it as it is a few months old and out of the return timeframe from Amazon. I returned the 3100 and was going to spring for the 5040UB or the JVC 400 to see if that would help.
Click to expand...


----------



## [email protected]

Has anyone had experience with their High Contrast Screen? It's not a ALR and my understanding that it is the same material as their Grey/White Screen, just darker than gret with a 0.95 gain.


----------



## Viche

Gothamite said:


> muzz said:
> 
> 
> 
> My 106" ST AT screen is hanging from the ceiling on 2 hooks, and it works fine.
> Love having speakers behind it.
> 
> 
> 
> I will buy fixed frame soon and because I need it hanging from the ceiling too, I'd appreciate if you could provide some pictures of how you managed it.
> Also would it be possible to actually fold it on the ceiling while not in use?
Click to expand...

 Did you ever figure out how to flip the screen up to the ceiling? I'd love to be able to hang my screen in front of the television and only drop it when needed. Wondering if it would have any affect on the frame or screen material hanging in that configuration though.

The other ideas for having the screen and large TV in the same location?


----------



## Gorilla Killa

muzz said:


> I think he means lift it up and clip it flat to ceiling when not it use. That could be done, I considered it myself, then decided against because speakers are behind mine anyway. I'll see what I can do about those pics you asked about Gotham.


According to their website speaker distance to the screen doesnt matter. Curious what distance you and other AT screens owners have their speakers from screen
@brian6751 as well


----------



## brian6751

Gorilla Killa said:


> According to their website speaker distance to the screen doesnt matter. Curious what distance you and other AT screens owners have their speakers from screen
> 
> @brian6751 as well


Mine are about an inch away from the back edge of the frame. Flush with the surface the mounting hardware is attached to. 

Sent from my ASUS_Z00AD using Tapatalk


----------



## muzz

Gorilla Killa said:


> According to their website speaker distance to the screen doesnt matter. Curious what distance you and other AT screens owners have their speakers from screen
> 
> @brian6751 as well


I was referring to the fact that raising the screen and clipping it off to the ceiling wouldn't do anything for me, as my speakers/subs are still there...can't walk there anyway!
My speakers are within 3-4" I think, I have no issues.
Just realized I forgot to take a couple of pics for Gotham! Doh!


----------



## Gorilla Killa

Thanks to both of you for the fast responses. Im hanging my screen tomorrow and hopefully watching movies by the weekend


----------



## jgsieve

What's the consensus on a silver ticket AT vs a elite acousticpro 1080p3 with a benq ht2050, 14.5ft away at 150" if that matters.

Thx


----------



## Gorilla Killa

I have a 120" AT from ST and I dont see any moire sitting at just under 10 ft. Cant comment on the Elite, but Im happy with the purchase, especially for the price I paid.


----------



## schmidtwi

Reading through this thread, but it will take some time.. Has anyone bought the 158" 2:35 AT Silver Ticket screen? If so, any comments on picture & sound performance?


----------



## Gorilla Killa

schmidtwi said:


> Reading through this thread, but it will take some time.. Has anyone bought the 158" 2:35 AT Silver Ticket screen? If so, any comments on picture & sound performance?



page 40


----------



## schmidtwi

Gorilla Killa said:


> page 40


Thanks, but I didn't see any discussion on a 158" AT screen. I saw your comment on no moire on your 120". Are you completely satisfied with the screen? Can you provide any details on the picture quality & sound through the AT screen? What PJ do you have? 


Thanks in advance for any info.


----------



## Gorilla Killa

I have a JVC RS400 and my LCR are JTR Triple 12's. Very happy with the sound and picture, especially for the price.
Below is a link to brian6751 thoughts a few pages back, its about 2/3 down the page. He's not running a screen that big either but seemed to be happy as well. If you were unhappy I think they would work with you returning it. 

I didnt have any issues setting it up, no wrinkles, all parts there, went together fairly easily etc. Their directions that come with it are a joke, google a couple of videos and youll be good to go. Be aware there are 2 different size tension springs when assembling.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-38.html


----------



## schmidtwi

Gorilla Killa said:


> I have a JVC RS400 and my LCR are JTR Triple 12's. Very happy with the sound and picture, especially for the price.
> Below is a link to brian6751 thoughts a few pages back, its about 2/3 down the page. He's not running a screen that big either but seemed to be happy as well. If you were unhappy I think they would work with you returning it.
> 
> I didnt have any issues setting it up, no wrinkles, all parts there, went together fairly easily etc. Their directions that come with it are a joke, google a couple of videos and youll be good to go. Be aware there are 2 different size tension springs when assembling.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-38.html


 

Excellent! Thanks for the detailed info, really appreciate it. You have the JVC 4K eShift, great to hear you are happy with the picture. I have an Epson 5040UB 4K eShift, so would expect similar results. Nice speakers you have there, also good to hear you're happy with the ST AT.


Thanks for pointing me to brian6751's review. I'll peruse through his build thread. Sounds like he's very happy with the performance also.


Building a new dedicated HT, and going with a large 2.35:1 AT screen (158" would fit). I have an Elite 16x9 135" screen, and am happy with that - especially for the price. If the ST AT performs as well as the Elite, I'd be happy. 


I may be in your Silver Ticket camp soon. 

Thanks again.




:-/


----------



## LookN2Find

I apologize for echoing a question that has possibly been asked over a million times, but I have been in multiple threads on AVSforum, read reviews for screens (a lot of reviews) etc., and I can't quite find the answer. If anyone has a link on the question I'm about to ask (if it has already been discussed and sorted out), please post a link.

Question - Is there a "textureless" projection screen? Also, do gray screens have more texture than white screens?

My eyes are very sensitive to any visual artifacts in film. I don't have any personal experience with 4K (advertised as 4K/UHD) projection screens, and I don't know for sure if I would be happy or unhappy with Silver Ticket, Elite Screens Aeon, or even screens from Da-Lite or Stewarts. I've heard bad things about Stewarts screen "shimmering" and "sparkling" (from multiple reviews and threads), which would annoy me to death, haha! I've also seen a reviewer say he liked Stewarts screens better than any, and I've seen a reviewer say that the Silver Ticket screen he reviewed was better than his $2,500 screen. So, it is a bit complicated to know for sure when or if I'm reading something more gauged toward advertising, or the truth. I'm sure you have all run into this in pursuit of a high quality screen, and have probably read the same reviews I have.

Can anyone help guide me a bit? Im interested in gray, only if I can get a gray screen with no visible texture, because my kitchen is behind the den area, and ambient light will come through quite often. I wouldn't want the gray to alter colors, tho I've read there are neutral grays and the projector can be calibrated if there were a color issue. 
Important to note is my seating distance varies between 10-12 feet from the screen, but can be as close as even 6 feet from other seating locations. I plan to go 4K in the future, and I would like to try to be future proofed.

How visible is the texture in person to the Silver Ticket screens? Any reason to go for a more expensive panel and suggestions of other screens to look into? Any added texture to gray versions for high ambient rooms?


----------



## Dominic Chan

LookN2Find said:


> How visible is the texture in person to the Silver Ticket screens? Any reason to go for a more expensive panel and suggestions of other screens to look into? Any added texture to gray versions for high ambient rooms?


The Silver Ticket Matte White, Matte Grey, and the new "High Contrast" screens are free of visible textures from any practical viewing distances. The "shimmering" and "sparkling" others have reported are with the Ambient Light Rejection (ALR) screens which require special coatings to boost the gain.

If you get really close, you will see the 1080p pixel pattern (similar to a screen door) before you can see the screen texture on matte screens.


----------



## DarkMATTer81

I am planning on purchasing the STR-169150-WAB Silver Ticket 4K Ultra HD Ready screen. Anyone know if the AT screens are transparent enough for lighting speakers behind the screen to show through?

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

DarkMATTer81 said:


> I am planning on purchasing the STR-169150-WAB Silver Ticket 4K Ultra HD Ready screen. Anyone know if the AT screens are transparent enough for lighting speakers behind the screen to show through?


The Silver Ticket WAB screens come with a black backing to prevent that from happening:


----------



## DarkMATTer81

Dominic Chan said:


> The Silver Ticket WAB screens come with a black backing to prevent that from happening:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hPE07FaAs-M


What if that is the effect I am looking for, prior to watching movies? I would like to see my speaker array. Can the backing be left off or will the performance of the screen suffer too much?

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

DarkMATTer81 said:


> What if that is the effect I am looking for, prior to watching movies? I would like to see my speaker array. Can the backing be left off or will the performance of the screen suffer too much?


The backing is optional.


----------



## LookN2Find

Dominic Chan said:


> The Silver Ticket Matte White, Matte Grey, and the new "High Contrast" screens are free of visible textures from any practical viewing distances. The "shimmering" and "sparkling" others have reported are with the Ambient Light Rejection (ALR) screens which require special coatings to boost the gain.
> 
> If you get really close, you will see the 1080p pixel pattern (similar to a screen door) before you can see the screen texture on matte screens.


Sounds great! 👍
I'm hoping the gray screen is viewable enough in a well lit room. I've been sick since 2005, and would love an excuse to have my Dad and my Brother come around. I figured a 100" 16X9 (125" CinemaScope) setup might lure them over! 😊

Do you guys notice huge differences in daytime viewing, and are there any true downsides to a gray screen, since of course they can be brightened/calibrated to compensate for the darker whites?


----------



## Dominic Chan

LookN2Find said:


> Do you guys notice huge differences in daytime viewing?


Realistically, light grey screens will provide a _very moderate_ improvement. The medium grey screens will provide a somewhat larger improvement, but still not a "huge" difference. That's assuming your projector has enough lumens to compensate for the lower gain.


----------



## Laserfan

Dominic Chan said:


> The Silver Ticket Matte White, Matte Grey, and the new "High Contrast" screens are free of visible textures from any practical viewing distances.


Thanks for that DC. I spotted the ST line of products just yesterday and while immediately "sold" vs. a much higher priced alternative I did have some trouble finding exactly what I thought I wanted. Between the ST website and their listings at amazon.com there was, for example, no 2:35 125" screen listed anywhere in Matte Grey. I eventually ordered a 235125-HC based on not much more than looking at the picture of the pencil on the screen surface. I'd been inclined toward the Matte White, but read somewhere too that at least one installer said "grey always just looks better". Having used a plain white Gatorfoam board for years, and happily so, I'm ready to try something new & different & more likely to do good by blacks.

Anyway it seems that while there have been numerous inquiries here about the HC screen, no one has actually reported on it so hope I've done the right thing in ordering it (shipped today already).


----------



## LookN2Find

Laserfan said:


> Thanks for that DC. I spotted the ST line of products just yesterday and while immediately "sold" vs. a much higher priced alternative I did have some trouble finding exactly what I thought I wanted. Between the ST website and their listings at amazon.com there was, for example, no 2:35 125" screen listed anywhere in Matte Grey. I eventually ordered a 235125-HC based on not much more than looking at the picture of the pencil on the screen surface. I'd been inclined toward the Matte White, but read somewhere too that at least one installed said "grey always just looks better". Having used a plain white Gatorfoam board for years, and happily so, I'm ready to try something new & different & more likely to do good by blacks.
> 
> Anyway it seems that while there have been numerous inquiries here about the HC screen, no one has actually reported on it so hope I've done the right thing in ordering it (shipped today already).


I'm interested to hear how you like it! Silver Ticket told me today↙

"In your case it sounds like a white screen is fine and here is why: movies are filmed to present the best contrast because it is pleasing to the eye. Video games as well. So when you watch movies and play video games you want the create an atmosphere that will promote the best contrast. 

Sports are not visually designed to be beautiful and don't have deep blacks, just the green of the grass and the colors of the uniform. So Sports (and cartoons for the same reason) don't need that special atmosphere in order to look good. 

If you did go with a grey you will find better blacks in any situation, but the brights do take a hit as well. Lowering the brightness and boosting the contrast in your projector should fix this, however. You are correct when you say that many reviews of grey/silver screens don't adjust any projector settings on their reviews. That is user error."

BUT...I still want the gray for a slight edge on black levels. I am just worried if the gray screen can perform as well with "whites" as the white screen does in a blacked out room after calibration. If the projector can compensate for the gray by being brightened I'd be happy. Can anyone give some gray vs white testomonials for night time viewing and how well whites are displayed with some projector tweaking?


----------



## muzz

I've used white and grey screens, and prefer white, and it's because of the Whites.
Even though blacks were a bit better, the Whites just seemed dingy to me, and was glad to return to a white screen.


----------



## Dominic Chan

LookN2Find said:


> Can anyone give some gray vs white testomonials for night time viewing and how well whites are displayed with some projector tweaking?


Think of it this way:

If you project a grey pattern on a white screen, it looks grey not because it's a different colour, but simply because less light reflects off the screen relative to a white pattern.

The opposite is also true - if you have a 0.9 gain screen next to a 1.0 gain screen, it will look greyish as less light reflects off the 0.9 gains screen. However, if you increase the light from the projector to compensate for the lower gain, it will be equally bright and hence look equally white as the white screen (assuming of course you don't increase the light on the white screen).


----------



## RapalloAV

Has anyone actually measured the "true" gain of the Silver ticket AT fabric?
Is it truly 1.1 gain????


----------



## JohnD80

Are these screens available in the UK? I can't see them anywhere. If not, is there an equivalent, or do they perhaps operate under a different name here?


----------



## Laserfan

LookN2Find said:


> I'm interested to hear how you like it!....I still want the gray for a slight edge on black levels.


I will not know for quite some time how I like the HC, as I have a long way to go before I am set-up. But the hardware looks to be first-rate; anxious to build it and get it up on the wall anyway.

I had a pure white screen for years and know that I will enjoy deeper blacks, particularly with all the dark movies I watch, including of course the "space epics".


----------



## Gorilla Killa

Laserfan said:


> I will not know for quite some time how I like the HC, as I have a long way to go before I am set-up. But the hardware looks to be first-rate; anxious to build it and get it up on the wall anyway.
> 
> I had a pure white screen for years and know that I will enjoy deeper blacks, particularly with all the dark movies I watch, including of course the "space epics".


You using velvet for the walls and ceiling?


----------



## tyrael44

DarkMATTer81 said:


> I am planning on purchasing the STR-169150-WAB Silver Ticket 4K Ultra HD Ready screen. Anyone know if the AT screens are transparent enough for lighting speakers behind the screen to show through?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk



I setup lights behind my STR-169150-WAB.


----------



## DarkMATTer81

tyrael44 said:


> I setup lights behind my STR-169150-WAB.



That looks great, thanks for posting a pic! I am assuming you left the black backing off? Any picture issues with leaving it off?


----------



## tyrael44

DarkMATTer81 said:


> That looks great, thanks for posting a pic! I am assuming you left the black backing off? Any picture issues with leaving it off?


No issues with picture, but I did have to make sure to treat the entire back wall so nothing was reflective. With just the flat gray paint you could see the image back through the screen on high contrast images (white text on black background).


----------



## RosalindaSimeon

I think there's an issue with the speakers behind the scene. How will you able to fix it? well, nice to see though a fixed frame projection screen for cinema you would like to watch at home.


----------



## pdermody

Anyone happen to retrofit their ST frames with a different screen material? Specifically AT material? Picked up a ST woven AT screen from them and while the picture looks great - audio is a bit lacking/"hollow" (comb filtering/lobing?)... So now I am on the hunt for perhaps just some material to see if I can do a DIY swap with the existing frame.

-pd


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Pulled the trigger on a Silver Ticket 125" 2.35:1 (White) today. Tried to buy one yesterday, but, nobody, and I mean nobody, had one in white, so, emailed Silver Ticket and some guy there said, "Go to Amazon tomorrow, you should see one available". I'll be damned, sure enough, there it was this AM. Snatched that bad boy up before you guys beat me to it.






















p.s. You mad bro?


----------



## Laserfan

Snoogleheimer said:


> Pulled the trigger on a Silver Ticket 125" 2.35:1 (White) today. Tried to buy one yesterday, but, nobody, and I mean nobody, had one in white, so, emailed Silver Ticket and some guy there said, "Go to Amazon tomorrow, you should see one available". I'll be damned, sure enough, there it was this AM. Snatched that bad boy up before you guys beat me to it.


I recently looked high & low for the 125 in white and when I couldn't find one, got instead the High Contrast material. Congrats on getting the white--I will probably not be able to judge my HC until late fall...


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Laserfan said:


> I recently looked high & low for the 125 in white and when I couldn't find one, got instead the High Contrast material. Congrats on getting the white--I will probably not be able to judge my HC until late fall...


Darn. Would sure like to get your opinion sooner. I thought about getting the 'high contrast' screen but chickened out.


----------



## Laserfan

Snoogleheimer said:


> Darn. Would sure like to get your opinion sooner. I thought about getting the 'high contrast' screen but chickened out.


No need to kick yourself--this is after all about enjoying the art and for many years my Mits HC-4900 with very weak blacks made spectacular pictures on a pure white screen; I just wanted to try something different. And in fact if I don't like it, I didn't pay all that much for it and no doubt could order a different screen material and pop that into the frame later if need be.

Someone here must have the HC screen and will chime-in with +- about it.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Hmmmm, order just the rolled up screen, without the frame? That's a great idea. So, they'll let you order just the screen? I might just do that just to compare, if they don't charge too much. Thanks for the idea.


----------



## Laserfan

Snoogleheimer said:


> Hmmmm, order just the rolled up screen, without the frame? That's a great idea. So, they'll let you order just the screen? I might just do that just to compare, if they don't charge too much. Thanks for the idea.


A quick look at their website says only "Unavailable" where a Buy button should be, with a $259.98 price. I guess you would have to contact them to find-out about availability and pricing of the screen material only for your frame. I would think that the worst case scenario would have them special ordering one for you.

https://silverticketproducts.com/products/replacement-screen-material-for-fixed-frame-screens


----------



## raullopez1234

Just placed my order for 1.3 matte white screen


----------



## raullopez1234

https://silver-ticket-products.myshopify.com/products/str-62wmaterial?variant=2657438979


----------



## Dominic Chan

raullopez1234 said:


> https://silver-ticket-products.myshopify.com/products/str-62wmaterial?variant=2657438979


Ok, that's just the raw material. I've been waiting for them to sell the finished screen complete with the pockets. Apparently that hasn't happened yet.


----------



## raullopez1234

yes it is .I have an existing wall mount screen that I will retrofit with this 1.3 gain material. I received samples of studiotek 100 and 130 last week and compared it to my existing screen and that comparison gave me the upgrade bug.I don't expect for silver ticket 1.3 to match studiotek but for a measly 85$ shipped I can compare st to silver screen and once and for all prove to myself wish one is a better screen in my eyes.


----------



## robc1976

I have a 138" elite screen I bought a month or so ago and think I want a bigger 158". The elitev is 1.1 gain and I was thinking of a 1.3 gain this time for a bit brighter picture. How would this screen compare to the elite? Would I gain anything from 1.1 to 1.3 gain? 

dedicated theater, no light, black walls, black carpet.


----------



## robc1976

Dominic Chan said:


> Ok, that's just the raw material. I've been waiting for them to sell the finished screen complete with the pockets. Apparently that hasn't happened yet.[bQUOTE]I really want 1.3 gain also


----------



## Laserfan

Dominic Chan said:


> Do you have the link to the product? I can't seem to find it on their website.


Company is a little crazy IMO; they seem to have, or to have sold at various times, all of the (one-off?) 1.3 White, then the Matte White 1.1, a Silver, a Grey, and a High Contrast. But there FAQ only references a few of these and I can't tell which are current products and what might be discontinued particularly as it seems they have very little of anything in stock.

BTW look at the Clearance sale button to find a number of used and Like New screens in various materials, though the one I bought STR-235235 is not available in either of the Whites.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Laserfan said:


> Company is a little crazy IMO; they seem to have, or to have sold at various times, all of the (one-off?) 1.3 White, then the Matte White 1.1, a Silver, a Grey, and a High Contrast. But there FAQ only references a few of these and I can't tell which are current products and what might be discontinued particularly as it seems they have very little of anything in stock.


The 1.1 matte white, 1.0 matte grey, 0.9 high contrast are all current products and are essentially the same material with different "colours". The 1.5 silver has a lot of issues but apparently they are still carrying it.

AFAIK, the 1.3 white has only been available as raw material. It's quite different from the other materials.

Based on what others have posted, you may be able to order the items even if they are marked "out of stock" on their website.


----------



## Stu1961

I'm currently looking into the Silver Ticket 100" fixed frame (white material) screens, and I'm having a bit of trouble deciding between the regular vs thin bezel. 

While the extra cash for less, or no, border is, obviously, one factor ... what I would really like to know is how far each of them sit off of the wall. I did read one post where it was said that the regular is pretty much flush (1/8") while the schematics for the thin bezel version makes it look as though it sits several, 2-3 inches, off the wall?

Is this true, and if so ... is there a logical explanation as to why? And, more importantly, if I do choose to go this route, is there another way to mount it so that it sits flush as well?

Thanks,

~Stu


----------



## Stu1961

Dominic Chan said:


> Where did you see the schematics? I only found the YouTube video and it doesn't look like it sits that far off the wall.


https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0885/8426/products/STT100_1024x1024.jpg?v=1488925076


----------



## Dominic Chan

Stu1961 said:


> I did read one post where it was said that the regular is pretty much flush (1/8") while the schematics for the thin bezel version makes it look as though it sits several, 2-3 inches, off the wall?


The 1/8" of the regular frame is measured from the _back_ of the frame to the wall. The 2.56" of the thin bezel includes the thickness of the frame. The actual difference between the two is less than 1".


----------



## tigerfan33

Dominic Chan said:


> The 1.1 matte white, 1.0 matte grey, 0.9 high contrast are all current products and are essentially the same material with different "colours". The 1.5 silver has a lot of issues but apparently they are still carrying it.
> 
> 
> 
> AFAIK, the 1.3 white has only been available as raw material. It's quite different from the other materials.
> 
> 
> 
> Based on what others have posted, you may be able to order the items even if they are marked "out of stock" on their website.




Didn't you compare the raw 1.3 and the matte white and find the raw brighter with sharper image?


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Yeah, my screen is the 1.1 white. Now, if I understand correctly, the 'Raw 1.3 White' does not come with holes or a place to slide in the tension rods, correct?


----------



## tigerfan33

Snoogleheimer said:


> Yeah, my screen is the 1.1 white. Now, if I understand correctly, the 'Raw 1.3 White' does not come with holes or a place to slide in the tension rods, correct?




Yep. You'll need to build a frame with the raw or figure out a way for the tension rods to work with your current frame.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Ok, thanks. I may just try building my own. Will have to wait til the busy season is over. Don't have the time for now. Would sure like to see some comparison opinions between the 1.1 and 1.3.


p.s. I wonder if they would put the holes and rod pockets in for you? For an additional price, of course.


----------



## jdbarnes63

robc1976 said:


> I have a 138" elite screen I bought a month or so ago and think I want a bigger 158". The elitev is 1.1 gain and I was thinking of a 1.3 gain this time for a bit brighter picture. How would this screen compare to the elite? Would I gain anything from 1.1 to 1.3 gain?
> 
> dedicated theater, no light, black walls, black carpet.


Rob, did you get your 158" ordered yet? Mine should be in tomorrow afternoon, not holding my breath as I have not got a shipping notice from Amazon yet. I did pay the $29 for faster shipping so will see. I do find that it's funny Silver Ticket sells the same one from them for $40 cheaper, the one on Amazon shows "sold by SilverTicket" so go figure. The 158" now shows out of stock in "white" after I purchased it, I guess they only make 1 at a time, lol.


----------



## Greg_R

Folks with the silver-grey 1.5 gain material: Do you see any visible "sparkles"? How is the hot-spotting with this material?


----------



## Dominic Chan

Greg_R said:


> Folks with the silver-grey 1.5 gain material: Do you see any visible "sparkles"? How is the hot-spotting with this material?


I posted a mini review of the ST ALR screen 2 years ago. AFAIK, the material hasn't changed.

Here's the link to some discussions and the review:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-32.html#post47090329


----------



## raullopez1234

silver ticket is a great company to do business with.The raw 1.3 gain material I received from them was not suitable for my setup.I found this out after I cut the material to size.I contacted silver ticket about a possible refund and they agreed.I then have ordered 1.1 gain white matte 109" silver ticket screen. Great customer service.


----------



## Dominic Chan

raullopez1234 said:


> silver ticket is a great company to do business with.The raw 1.3 gain material I received from them was not suitable for my setup.I found this out after I cut the material to size.I contacted silver ticket about a possible refund and they agreed.I then have ordered 1.1 gain white matte 109" silver ticket screen. Great customer service.


Just curious what issues you had with the 1.3 gain material? I actually replaced my 1.1 gain white matte with this and have been very happy with it.
Yes, they have excellent customer service.


----------



## raullopez1234

I sit about 9 feet away fromy the screen and I was able to detect sparklies on certain scenes. Don't get me wrong it's a great screen but as of late I have become extremely picky with pq.I compared it to a sample of stewart studiotek 1.3 and found the silver ticket a little brighter with just a tad more sparkles.


----------



## wickedg8gt

Purchased a Silver Ticket Screen last night. I got a normal fixed frame, matte white (I think 1.1 gain), 110 inch in 16x9. Can't to wait to get it. And get it up.


----------



## wickedg8gt

Quick questions. I've seen the videos on their website, but when it comes to actually doing it; are these hard to put together and get hung?

Also, I have 8ft ceilings. Not sure if that matters or not. But how far down/from the top of the wall where it meets the ceiling, do you put the screen?


----------



## Dominic Chan

wickedg8gt said:


> Quick questions. I've seen the videos on their website, but when it comes to actually doing it; are these hard to put together and get hung?


For their regular frame, hanging is very easy - just two screws on the wall, preferably into wall studs. Ideally you should use 4 screws, although alignment would be more critical.



> Also, I have 8ft ceilings. Not sure if that matters or not. But how far down/from the top of the wall where it meets the ceiling, do you put the screen?


It's a matter of preference, but usually you would hang it such that the lower 1/3 point on the screen is at your eye level when seated.


----------



## wickedg8gt

Dominic Chan said:


> For their regular frame, hanging is very easy - just two screws on the wall, preferably into wall studs. Ideally you should use 4 screws, although alignment would be more critical.
> 
> 
> It's a matter of preference, but usually you would hang it such that the lower 1/3 point on the screen is at your eye level when seated.


Thank you sir. I saw there are 4 keyhole brackets, 2 for top and 2 for bottom.
1. Does everyone use all 4? 

2. Do the keyhole brackets mount to screen then hung on wall, or brackets mounted to wall then screen has something to hang on the brackets?

3. If I cant use a stud, what do you rcecommend? Heavy drywall screw?


----------



## Dominic Chan

wickedg8gt said:


> Thank you sir. I saw there are 4 keyhole brackets, 2 for top and 2 for bottom.
> 1. Does everyone use all 4?


Many people use only the top two screws.



> 2. Do the keyhole brackets mount to screen then hung on wall, or brackets mounted to wall then screen has something to hang on the brackets?


The keyhole brackets are inserted into the top and bottom rails during assembly. They can still slide around afterwards to line up with the mounting screws.



> 3. If I cant use a stud, what do you rcecommend? Heavy drywall screw?


Drywalls are usually screwed or nailed to studs. If you cannot put the mounting screws into the studs that are behind the drywall, you should use drywall anchors (and preferably use all 4 screws).


----------



## wickedg8gt

Thank you very much sir. And all of you all for the help along the way. I will apologize upfront, if I run into issues or something I don't undsrstand, I might have to bug you all with more questions. Lol


----------



## robc1976

*Junk!*

Biggest piece of junk I have ever seen. The springs are so weak they don't ever pull material to the edge correctly. The screen material on edges is full of creases like it was on a roll that ran out. The center support the joins the top and bottom in that you screw together had to be beaten in with hammer because it was machined incorrectly. The supports look like they are cut with a hacksaw lol! 

Just bought another elite screen as I knowing it actually has some quality.

I would not even put this silver ticket in my garage.

Do NOT buy if your looking for any type of quality.


----------



## ereed

robc1976 said:


> Biggest piece of junk I have ever seen. The springs are so weak they don't ever pull material to the edge correctly. The screen material on edges is full of creases like it was on a roll that ran out. The center support the joins the top and bottom in that you screw together had to be beaten in with hammer because it was machined incorrectly. The supports look like they are cut with a hacksaw lol!
> 
> Just bought another elite screen as I knowing it actually has some quality.
> 
> I would not even put this silver ticket in my garage.
> 
> Do NOT buy if your looking for any type of quality.


Maybe its the pull down manual version or some sort? I own silver ticket fixed screen and its a really nice screen for the money. I never had issues and its just as good as my buddy's screen that he paid $2500 for and he was upset after finding out how much I paid for mine and he can't tell the diff between the two.


----------



## jdbarnes63

*Tricky to put together*

I purchased the STR-235158-G Silver Ticket 2.35:1 4K, 158" screen from Amazon. Product was ordered on Friday, they sent shipping label around 430PM , package was inbound from Indianapolis and arrived in Houston at my door by 9AM Saturday. Box is large and heavy.

I watched the installation videos and then searched for ones with the large screen that I purchased. The video shows as... Large 10cm Tutorial (screens 158 diag and bigger)...This video is quite different than the smaller size screens. In the video the guy was able to put the frame together by himself effortlessly, that was a joke. The included instructions might just as well have been a piece of paper that said "Good Luck", really shows nothing to help you put this together. The frame comes in (6) pcs, 2 pcs each for the top and bottom and 1 for each side. The top and bottom pcs are joined by a large block of aluminum to make a solid piece for the top and bottom. These pieces are large 4" extruded aluminum, heavy duty. The problem comes when you have to join the 2 pieces together, the aluminum block is machined with zero tolerance, the only way to put them together was to install the "L" bracket on each 45 cut end, put a 4X4 block of wood on the 45 cut end against the baseboard and pound the block into the center connection point of the frame. Your not getting these apart to sell again or return to Silver Ticket, you have to line up the machined screw holes to put them together perfectly. Again, no play in any of this piece. Once they are put together the final piece is super strong, no flex, feels like a solid 154" piece. 
I rolled the screen white side down, placed the frame on top and proceeded to pull springs onto plastic rods. I had no issue with these and the screen finished up extremely tight, no wrinkles.

Hanging the screen is a trial and error process in itself. Again, the instructions are useless. I attached the 2 top clips to the wall apx 1/3 from each side. You will need a buddy to help hang the screen from them. I measured the location I wanted the bottom clip to go.I then was able to tilt the screen away from the wall and and attach the bottom clip, let the bottom frame fall into the clip and tighten the piece against the frame.

This frame has a 4" velvet wrapped border on all sides. The frame and screen weight is 64 lbs. the same Elite screen has a 2.4" border and weight is 34.2 lbs. This frame is well built, a pain to put together but should last a very long time. Sliver Screens needs to really spend some time and include step by step instructions, what they do send is garbage.


----------



## robc1976

ereed said:


> Maybe its the pull down manual version or some sort? I own silver ticket fixed screen and its a really nice screen for the money. I never had issues and its just as good as my buddy's screen that he paid $2500 for and he was upset after finding out how much I paid for mine and he can't tell the diff between the two.


 nope, it had the pockets and everything. It's just designed badly. The way the tension rod pulls material to edge is, setting you up for failure. The springs barely pull it to edge and 100% will get weaker. Clips on the elite are way better as itv pulls material fartherv on to frame and locks it.

I actually did like the thicker frame design. The joiner bar had to be beat in with hammer, it was ridiculous. Maybe I got a bad one or wrong size avecl screen material.

I did hang it and my elite has a sharper picture for sure, my buddies Stewart beats both of them but he paid over 2K. The silver ticket is defiantly a step down from the elite in quality.


----------



## robc1976

jdbarnes63 said:


> I purchased the STR-235158-G Silver Ticket 2.35:1 4K, 158" screen from Amazon. Product was ordered on Friday, they sent shipping label around 430PM , package was inbound from Indianapolis and arrived in Houston at my door by 9AM Saturday. Box is large and heavy.
> 
> I watched the installation videos and then searched for ones with the large screen that I purchased. The video shows as... Large 10cm Tutorial (screens 158 diag and bigger)...This video is quite different than the smaller size screens. In the video the guy was able to put the frame together by himself effortlessly, that was a joke. The included instructions might just as well have been a piece of paper that said "Good Luck", really shows nothing to help you put this together. The frame comes in (6) pcs, 2 pcs each for the top and bottom and 1 for each side. The top and bottom pcs are joined by a large block of aluminum to make a solid piece for the top and bottom. These pieces are large 4" extruded aluminum, heavy duty. The problem comes when you have to join the 2 pieces together, the aluminum block is machined with zero tolerance, the only way to put them together was to install the "L" bracket on each 45 cut end, put a 4X4 block of wood on the 45 cut end against the baseboard and pound the block into the center connection point of the frame. Your not getting these apart to sell again or return to Silver Ticket, you have to line up the machined screw holes to put them together perfectly. Again, no play in any of this piece. Once they are put together the final piece is super strong, no flex, feels like a solid 154" piece.
> I rolled the screen white side down, placed the frame on top and proceeded to pull springs onto plastic rods. I had no issue with these and the screen finished up extremely tight, no wrinkles.
> 
> Hanging the screen is a trial and error process in itself. Again, the instructions are useless. I attached the 2 top clips to the wall apx 1/3 from each side. You will need a buddy to help hang the screen from them. I measured the location I wanted the bottom clip to go.I then was able to tilt the screen away from the wall and and attach the bottom clip, let the bottom frame fall into the clip and tighten the piece against the frame.
> 
> This frame has a 4" velvet wrapped border on all sides. The frame and screen weight is 64 lbs. the same Elite screen has a 2.4" border and weight is 34.2 lbs. This frame is well built, a pain to put together but should last a very long time. Sliver Screens needs to really spend some time and include step by step instructions, what they do send is garbage.


 exactly my situation, my screen is tight but barely pulls to edges, had to use 2 springs in some places. The screen material on mine is marred and dented.

The corner pieces where NOT hard but the center joiner was a PITA. Beat it in with mallet. Instructions a 5 years old wrote.


----------



## ereed

Maybe I got lucky then! I had no issues and watched the videos few times before I tried....they pull tight all around and I did top and bottom before doing the sides. And I didn't use a hammer for the middle support.....cause I got smart and put the middle support in before tightening down the screen fabric to the frames.  To each his own....maybe there are better looking screens out there but it would cost alot more....and considering this was my first projector setup I'm more than happy with my purchase and so far I've had my screen and projector for almost a year now.


----------



## robc1976

ereed said:


> Maybe I got lucky then! I had no issues and watched the videos few times before I tried....they pull tight all around and I did top and bottom before doing the sides. And I didn't use a hammer for the middle support.....cause I got smart and put the middle support in before tightening down the screen fabric to the frames.  To each his own....maybe there are better looking screens out there but it would cost alot more....and considering this was my first projector setup I'm more than happy with my purchase and so far I've had my screen and projector for almost a year now.


 I am talking about the joiner, big block of aluminium that joins middle of top and bottom of frame


----------



## robc1976

Okay, I may have found issue. The imperfection I saw is on both sides. One side is under screen, other is not. I think I have one side not tight enough and need to use the shorter stronger springs. Also noticed the silver ticket screen is whiter than the elite? I may be wrong in saying it's POST I will update soon.

Attached is pic of imperfection that I think goes under screen edge.


----------



## ereed

robc1976 said:


> I am talking about the joiner, big block of aluminium that joins middle of top and bottom of frame


Yes, the middle piece to keep the top and bottom from bowing....I inserted that first before tightening down all 4 corners very tight so I had some wiggle room and didn't use a hammer for fear of hitting/ripping something.


----------



## 4fit?

I just built/installed my 135" 16:9 AT screen and had zero problems at all. Assembled it in 30-40 minutes or so, and hung it on the wall in about 5 minutes. I did use the shorter springs for stronger screen tension and used a few light taps with a rubber mallet to install the 2 vertical support bars, but I knew that was going to be needed going into it.



ereed said:


> Yes, the middle piece to keep the top and bottom from bowing....I inserted that first before tightening down all 4 corners very tight so I had some wiggle room and didn't use a hammer for fear of hitting/ripping something.


I believe you are referring to the vertical support bars while the other guy is referring to the pieces that join the left and right portions of the upper and lower frame. Those blocks slid right into the frame for me with no problem at all. Sounds like he may have gotten a bad copy.


----------



## ereed

robc1976 said:


> Okay, I may have found issue. The imperfection I saw is on both sides. One side is under screen, other is not. I think I have one side not tight enough and need to use the shorter stronger springs. Also noticed the silver ticket screen is whiter than the elite? I may be wrong in saying it's POST I will update soon.
> 
> Attached is pic of imperfection that I think goes under screen edge.





4fit? said:


> I just built/installed my 135" 16:9 AT screen and had zero problems at all. Assembled it in 30-40 minutes or so, and hung it on the wall in about 5 minutes. I did use the shorter springs for stronger screen tension and used a few light taps with a rubber mallet to install the 2 vertical support bars, but I knew that was going to be needed going into it.
> 
> 
> I believe you are referring to the vertical support bars while the other guy is referring to the pieces that join the left and right portions of the upper and lower frame. Those blocks slid right into the frame for me with no problem at all. Sounds like he may have gotten a bad copy.


I think I'm confused and not sure what you guys are talking about. The screen I have is 120 inch screen. Mine didn't have springs for the screen...it uses white clips so the screen just pulls over the clips that snap in. Is it not the same on other sizes or models as far as installation goes?
@robc1976 can you explain what that image is....I can't seem to figure out what I'm looking at.


----------



## robc1976

ereed said:


> I think I'm confused and not sure what you guys are talking about. The screen I have is 120 inch screen. Mine didn't have springs for the screen...it uses white clips so the screen just pulls over the clips that snap in. Is it not the same on other sizes or models as far as installation goes?
> 
> @robc1976 can you explain what that image is....I can't seem to figure out what I'm looking at.


 158" and above has springs attached to frame, no white clips


----------



## robc1976

ereed said:


> I think I'm confused and not sure what you guys are talking about. The screen I have is 120 inch screen. Mine didn't have springs for the screen...it uses white clips so the screen just pulls over the clips that snap in. Is it not the same on other sizes or models as far as installation goes?
> 
> @robc1976 can you explain what that image is....I can't seem to figure out what I'm looking at.


The black part is screen frame, white material is the screen.


----------



## robc1976

4fit? said:


> I just built/installed my 135" 16:9 AT screen and had zero problems at all. Assembled it in 30-40 minutes or so, and hung it on the wall in about 5 minutes. I did use the shorter springs for stronger screen tension and used a few light taps with a rubber mallet to install the 2 vertical support bars, but I knew that was going to be needed going into it.
> 
> 
> I believe you are referring to the vertical support bars while the other guy is referring to the pieces that join the left and right portions of the upper and lower frame. Those blocks slid right into the frame for me with no problem at all. Sounds like he may have gotten a bad copy.


 vertical bars are easy, I was referring to the block of aluminium the jointb the top 2 pieces and bottom 2 pieces. I used the springs that came pre-attached to frame. I believe I needed to use the shorterv springs for more tension. The instructions never even mentioned this.

Ugh lol


----------



## robc1976

ereed said:


> I think I'm confused and not sure what you guys are talking about. The screen I have is 120 inch screen. Mine didn't have springs for the screen...it uses white clips so the screen just pulls over the clips that snap in. Is it not the same on other sizes or models as far as installation goes?
> 
> @robc1976 can you explain what that image is....I can't seem to figure out what I'm looking at.


The black part is screen frame, white material is the screen.


----------



## ereed

robc1976 said:


> vertical bars are easy, I was referring to the block of aluminium the jointb the top 2 pieces and bottom 2 pieces. I used the springs that came pre-attached to frame. I believe I needed to use the shorterv springs for more tension. The instructions never even mentioned this.
> 
> Ugh lol


I agree the instructions leave something to be desired. lol Not sure why they can't print real instructions. But the quality of the screen itself is not bad...try with shorter springs and see how it does. Thanks for the info...wasn't aware the larger screens had different design other than 2 vertical bars vs 1 bar for shorter size screens.


----------



## bgeery

None of you guys have my sympathy.

Anyone that has read this thread will know missing/incorrect parts is not an uncommon complaint with Silver Ticket screens. You would also know that Silver ticket has excellent custom service and will send out any needed replacement parts, often overnight.

Stop complaining on the forums, and contact Silver Ticket for support. They will make it right, or you will get your full money back. I don't recall reading even a single message where Silver Ticket did not satisfy the customer in the end. Just contact them for help, then enjoy a great screen at a great price.


----------



## jdbarnes63

robc1976 said:


> 4fit? said:
> 
> 
> 
> I just built/installed my 135" 16:9 AT screen and had zero problems at all. Assembled it in 30-40 minutes or so, and hung it on the wall in about 5 minutes. I did use the shorter springs for stronger screen tension and used a few light taps with a rubber mallet to install the 2 vertical support bars, but I knew that was going to be needed going into it.
> 
> 
> 
> I believe you are referring to the vertical support bars while the other guy is referring to the pieces that join the left and right portions of the upper and lower frame. Those blocks slid right into the frame for me with no problem at all. Sounds like he may have gotten a bad copy.
> 
> 
> 
> vertical bars are easy, I was referring to the block of aluminium the jointb the top 2 pieces and bottom 2 pieces. I used the springs that came pre-attached to frame. I believe I needed to use the shorterv springs for more tension. The instructions never even mentioned this.
> 
> Ugh lol
Click to expand...




robc1976 said:


> ereed said:
> 
> 
> 
> I think I'm confused and not sure what you guys are talking about. The screen I have is 120 inch screen. Mine didn't have springs for the screen...it uses white clips so the screen just pulls over the clips that snap in. Is it not the same on other sizes or models as far as installation goes?
> 
> @robc1976 can you explain what that image is....I can't seem to figure out what I'm looking at.
> 
> 
> 
> The black part is screen frame, white material is the screen.
Click to expand...

Rob and I both have the same screen size 158", it is put together differently than the smaller screens. They have a big block of aluminum that joins the left and right top and the same for the bottom pieces. We are not talking about the support beam that goes from top to bottom to keep it from bowing. That piece was easy, the videos show that as hard to put in, we had no problems with that one. The joining block of aluminum had to be beat in on each side before the 4 screws could go in. When I say zero tolerance, I do mean zero. It did not pull up any aluminium shavings beating of in, but you did not just slip it into place. We really wondered if we might damage the frame hitting it in so hard. I know Rob ordered his a few days after me so it is a design flaw or the way they intended it. I can say that it is a strong joint. The instructions didn't say to use more springs, smaller springs, etc. I didn't even know that they are different sizes, the instructions are really bad. IKEA does a better job and those look like a kindergarten kid did them, just saying. I know I have a lot of extra springs left over, I just figured they are to be used if and when I change out the screen itself. 

I am a first time projector owner with a Epson 5040 that I wanted for the memory settings, faux 4K and the ability to change from 16:9 to 2:35 on the fly, I love that feature. I also have no way to compare how this screen is to any others, all I know is the price was great, I was able to have a compete setup, projector and screen, for 3K. I guess I could order another screen like the Elite to try but I'm really happy with what I see on this one. Maybe in a few years I'll decide to change it out but getting it apart to sell is going to be a challenge . I figure I will have to try a hydraulic puller of some kind to get the aluminium block out of one side of the frame without damaging it. Again, this frame is 74 lbs so it is built like a tank. This is not a knock on Silver Ticket, the product is very good, it's the little things like the instructions for a first time buyer.


----------



## robc1976

jdbarnes63 said:


> Rob and I both have the same screen size 158", it is put together differently than the smaller screens. They have a big block of aluminum that joins the left and right top and the same for the bottom pieces. We are not talking about the support beam that goes from top to bottom to keep it from bowing. That piece was easy, the videos show that as hard to put in, we had no problems with that one. The joining block of aluminum had to be beat in on each side before the 4 screws could go in. When I say zero tolerance, I do mean zero. It did not pull up any aluminium shavings beating of in, but you did not just slip it into place. We really wondered if we might damage the frame hitting it in so hard. I know Rob ordered his a few days after me so it is a design flaw or the way they intended it. I can say that it is a strong joint. The instructions didn't say to use more springs, smaller springs, etc. I didn't even know that they are different sizes, the instructions are really bad. IKEA does a better job and those look like a kindergarten kid did them, just saying. I know I have a lot of extra springs left over, I just figured they are to be used if and when I change out the screen itself.
> 
> I am a first time projector owner with a Epson 5040 that I wanted for the memory settings, faux 4K and the ability to change from 16:9 to 2:35 on the fly, I love that feature. I also have no way to compare how this screen is to any others, all I know is the price was great, I was able to have a compete setup, projector and screen, for 3K. I guess I could order another screen like the Elite to try but I'm really happy with what I see on this one. Maybe in a few years I'll decide to change it out but getting it apart to sell is going to be a challenge . I figure I will have to try a hydraulic puller of some kind to get the aluminium block out of one side of the frame without damaging it. Again, this frame is 74 lbs so it is built like a tank. This is not a knock on Silver Ticket, the product is very good, it's the little things like the instructions for a first time buyer.


 100% correct, that center piece is never being removed. The smaller clips add more tension, I used all small clips and this fixed my issue. If instructions would have stated this there would be no issues.

We have the same projector lol


----------



## robc1976

bgeery said:


> None of you guys have my sympathy.
> 
> Anyone that has read this thread will know missing/incorrect parts is not an uncommon complaint with Silver Ticket screens. You would also know that Silver ticket has excellent custom service and will send out any needed replacement parts, often overnight.
> 
> Stop complaining on the forums, and contact Silver Ticket for support. They will make it right, or you will get your full money back. I don't recall reading even a single message where Silver Ticket did not satisfy the customer in the end. Just contact them for help, then enjoy a great screen at a great price.


 I will agree they have great customer service.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Anyone tried the 1.3 white?


----------



## 4fit?

jdbarnes63 said:


> Rob and I both have the same screen size 158", it is put together differently than the smaller screens. They have a big block of aluminum that joins the left and right top and the same for the bottom pieces. We are not talking about the support beam that goes from top to bottom to keep it from bowing. That piece was easy, the videos show that as hard to put in, we had no problems with that one. The joining block of aluminum had to be beat in on each side before the 4 screws could go in. When I say zero tolerance, I do mean zero. It did not pull up any aluminium shavings beating of in, but you did not just slip it into place. We really wondered if we might damage the frame hitting it in so hard. I know Rob ordered his a few days after me so it is a design flaw or the way they intended it. I can say that it is a strong joint. The instructions didn't say to use more springs, smaller springs, etc. I didn't even know that they are different sizes, the instructions are really bad. IKEA does a better job and those look like a kindergarten kid did them, just saying. I know I have a lot of extra springs left over, I just figured they are to be used if and when I change out the screen itself.
> 
> I am a first time projector owner with a Epson 5040 that I wanted for the memory settings, faux 4K and the ability to change from 16:9 to 2:35 on the fly, I love that feature. I also have no way to compare how this screen is to any others, all I know is the price was great, I was able to have a compete setup, projector and screen, for 3K. I guess I could order another screen like the Elite to try but I'm really happy with what I see on this one. Maybe in a few years I'll decide to change it out but getting it apart to sell is going to be a challenge . I figure I will have to try a hydraulic puller of some kind to get the aluminium block out of one side of the frame without damaging it. Again, this frame is 74 lbs so it is built like a tank. This is not a knock on Silver Ticket, the product is very good, it's the little things like the instructions for a first time buyer.





robc1976 said:


> 100% correct, that center piece is never being removed. The smaller clips add more tension, I used all small clips and this fixed my issue. If instructions would have stated this there would be no issues.
> 
> We have the same projector lol


My 135" has that same aluminum block to join the top/bottom frame pieces. Mine slid in easily; almost too easily actually. I had to get it in place and then slip a screwdriver into one of the screw holes in order to start the first screw. Otherwise, it would try to slide around on me.

In y'alls case, it sounds like either the machining of that aluminum block was off, or maybe the machining of the frame pieces on the 158" screen was off.


----------



## ereed

robc1976 said:


> 100% correct, that center piece is never being removed. The smaller clips add more tension, I used all small clips and this fixed my issue. If instructions would have stated this there would be no issues.
> 
> We have the same projector lol


Now you can say that Silver Ticket screens do not suck. LOL Yeah, the instructions suck and it can be a hassle compared to other brands.....for the price it would take alot more money to get a better picture. Glad it worked out for you. 

Also I will keep in mind about the blocks when I decide to go bigger screen. Thanks!


----------



## nedstark

Hi ST screen owners,

Planning to buy a RS420 and 2:35:1 Silver ticket AT screen. Is anyone using the ST woven acoustic screen ? I can go as big as 158 inches in 2:35:1 format from 17 feet throw distance, any gotchas concerns with this combo or RS400? 

https://www.amazon.com/STR-235158-G-Silver-Ticket-2-35-Projector/dp/B00MOYC25Q/

The Max Screen Size i can mount is 176(width)* 77 (height), Throw distance 17 feet ( or a little more)

According to projector central, I am using a throw distance of 17.5. It says i can do 122 inch diagonal for 16:9 and 2.35:1.

According to the JVC Lens calc, i can go 158.

http://pro.jvc.com/pro/lens_calc/HTML/jvc_REF.html

How accurate is projector central calc vs the JVC calc ? This is my first projector so any help/guidance is appreciated. I dont want to end up with a faded out/washed out image after all this investment .

Thanks


----------



## nedstark

jdbarnes63 said:


> I purchased the STR-235158-G Silver Ticket 2.35:1 4K, 158" screen from Amazon. Product was ordered on Friday, they sent shipping label around 430PM , package was inbound from Indianapolis and arrived in Houston at my door by 9AM Saturday. Box is large and heavy.


What projector are you using to lit up the 158 inch screen ?


----------



## jdbarnes63

Epson 5040, my post #1277 tells you all about installation issues. Here are some pictures of test wall, screen after it was put together sitting on my subs and the final screen on the wall with the LED strip showing against the back wall. Sorry for the crappy quality, cell phone camera. I have my Epson mounted 1" from the back wall, the 5040 has a 2" lip indent that allows all of the cables to lay flat against the wall and the vents are on the front, so no issues with heat around the unit. I use all of my rooms 19' so probably 204" to throw an image onto the 158" screen, I overshoot probably a 1/2" and think it looks great. Memory features are great to have when changing from 16:9 baseball games to 2:35 scope movies without having to go get on a stool and adjust the lens manually. Read the issues Rob and I had putting ours together, other than the install issues I love the picture it shows. Feel free to PM me with any questions. Before I ordered my screen, I received the projector, put (2) queen sheets together on the wall and played with throw distance, zoom, image size to get the largest, most comfortable image to watch, then I ordered the screen. That's how others on the forums have suggested and I can say it works.


----------



## nedstark

jdbarnes63 said:


> Epson 5040, my post #1277 tells you all about installation issues. Here are some pictures of test wall, screen after it was put together sitting on my subs and the final screen on the wall with the LED strip showing against the back wall. Sorry for the crappy quality, cell phone camera. I have my Epson mounted 1" from the back wall, the 5040 has a 2" lip indent that allows all of the cables to lay flat against the wall and the vents are on the front, so no issues with heat around the unit. I use all of my rooms 19' so probably 204" to throw an image onto the 158" screen, I overshoot probably a 1/2" and think it looks great. Memory features are great to have when changing from 16:9 baseball games to 2:35 scope movies without having to go get on a stool and adjust the lens manually. Read the issues Rob and I had putting ours together, other than the install issues I love the picture it shows. Feel free to PM me with any questions. Before I ordered my screen, I received the projector, put (2) queen sheets together on the wall and played with throw distance, zoom, image size to get the largest, most comfortable image to watch, then I ordered the screen. That's how others on the forums have suggested and I can say it works.


Thanks for the response Jdbarnes, i will follow your suggestion i.e get the pj first and then decide what screen size i am comfortable with. Thanks gain, ideally i would like 158" and ability to toggle 16:9 and 235:1 content. Happy 4th of July!!


----------



## robc1976

jdbarnes63 said:


> Epson 5040, my post #1277 tells you all about installation issues. Here are some pictures of test wall, screen after it was put together sitting on my subs and the final screen on the wall with the LED strip showing against the back wall. Sorry for the crappy quality, cell phone camera. I have my Epson mounted 1" from the back wall, the 5040 has a 2" lip indent that allows all of the cables to lay flat against the wall and the vents are on the front, so no issues with heat around the unit. I use all of my rooms 19' so probably 204" to throw an image onto the 158" screen, I overshoot probably a 1/2" and think it looks great. Memory features are great to have when changing from 16:9 baseball games to 2:35 scope movies without having to go get on a stool and adjust the lens manually. Read the issues Rob and I had putting ours together, other than the install issues I love the picture it shows. Feel free to PM me with any questions. Before I ordered my screen, I received the projector, put (2) queen sheets together on the wall and played with throw distance, zoom, image size to get the largest, most comfortable image to watch, then I ordered the screen. That's how others on the forums have suggested and I can say it works.


 have mine hung. Your think my 17.8" throw will be enough? Is only thing i noticed between the elite and this screen is the elite seemed to be ableb to get a crispier image but that could be because of the larger screen andc extra zoom. I was told to adjust focus very close to screen, may not be best method.

Colors seem better, frame is stronger and I like that there is room behind screen.

I think the 1.1 gain is brighter than the elite 1.1 gain and the elite was smaller. So very happy with this.

Edit: easily got picture to fit.


----------



## robc1976

ereed said:


> Now you can say that Silver Ticket screens do not suck. LOL Yeah, the instructions suck and it can be a hassle compared to other brands.....for the price it would take alot more money to get a better picture. Glad it worked out for you.
> 
> Also I will keep in mind about the blocks when I decide to go bigger screen. Thanks!


 they don't suck, actually a very good picture.


----------



## T-Bone

nedstark said:


> Hi ST screen owners,
> 
> Planning to buy a RS420 and 2:35:1 Silver ticket AT screen. Is anyone using the ST woven acoustic screen ? I can go as big as 158 inches in 2:35:1 format from 17 feet throw distance, any gotchas concerns with this combo or RS400?
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/STR-235158-G-Silver-Ticket-2-35-Projector/dp/B00MOYC25Q/
> 
> The Max Screen Size i can mount is 176(width)* 77 (height), Throw distance 17 feet ( or a little more)
> 
> According to projector central, I am using a throw distance of 17.5. It says i can do 122 inch diagonal for 16:9 and 2.35:1.
> 
> According to the JVC Lens calc, i can go 158.
> 
> http://pro.jvc.com/pro/lens_calc/HTML/jvc_REF.html
> 
> How accurate is projector central calc vs the JVC calc ? This is my first projector so any help/guidance is appreciated. I dont want to end up with a faded out/washed out image after all this investment .
> 
> Thanks


I have a silver ticket in white. 16 by 9 And 135 in diagonal. It's a really nice screen.

I cannot speak to the type of screen that you're interested in. But I think you should also be a little concerned about the Lumen output of the projector. I was looking at the 420 also as a possible upgrade projector for me. I'm Eco lamp mode I think the review stated it had 1200 
lumens calibrated .

You need to divide the lumens by the square footage of the screen area, to get your foot-lamberts value. A minimum of 16 foot Lamberts is recommended. But your bulb is going to dim, so you need to start out with much more than 16 ft Lambert's.

158 inch 2.35:1 is 62.4 feet square. That's 19.2 foot Lamberts assuming I am right about the 1200 lumens calibrated output in low lamp mode. So you starting off too low on the lumens. I think you need to research the reviews to see what the actual output of the projector is.

If it were me, I don't think I would start with less than 26 foot Lamberts. Because I know the ball is going to dim. So choose your screen and projector accordingly. I believe the silver ticket screens are really really nice.

-T


----------



## wickedg8gt

Screen is up and looks beautiful!! There is very noticeable, circle hot spot on the bottom of the right side. But looks great!!


----------



## Laserfan

wickedg8gt said:


> ...There is very noticeable, circle hot spot on the bottom of the right side...


Not sure what this means--are you saying the surface of the screen material has a noticeable defect?


----------



## wickedg8gt

Laserfan said:


> wickedg8gt said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...There is very noticeable, circle hot spot on the bottom of the right side...
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure what this means--are you saying the surface of the screen material has a noticeable defect?
Click to expand...

Yes, it's called a "hot spot". It's where theres a ball of light on the screen during certain images.


----------



## Gorilla Killa

ereed said:


> I think I'm confused and not sure what you guys are talking about. The screen I have is 120 inch screen. Mine didn't have springs for the screen...it uses white clips so the screen just pulls over the clips that snap in. Is it not the same on other sizes or models as far as installation goes?
> 
> @robc1976 can you explain what that image is....I can't seem to figure out what I'm looking at.


I have a 120" AT and it came with lg and small springs. I used all the small ones, it came out taut and have zero complaints for under $500.
@wickedg8gt send that screen back for a replacement.


----------



## ereed

Gorilla Killa said:


> I have a 120" AT and it came with lg and small springs. I used all the small ones, it came out taut and have zero complaints for under $500.
> 
> @wickedg8gt send that screen back for a replacement.


My 120 inch is non AT screen....the screen just snaps on the white plastic clips. Maybe one day when I do AT or much bigger screen than now I can see what the springs look like people are talking about.


----------



## NewbieinATL

muzz said:


> My 106" ST AT screen is hanging from the ceiling on 2 hooks, and it works fine.
> Love having speakers behind it.


Going to have to do the same as can't put speakers in-wall. Guessing I'd measure about a third distance from each corner and drill the eyelets into the frame? I'm planning on getting the 150-wap, anyone see any issues hanging from hooks like Muzz has done? Any other suggestions/concerns?


----------



## Gorilla Killa

NewbieinATL said:


> Going to have to do the same as can't put speakers in-wall. Guessing I'd measure about a third distance from each corner and drill the eyelets into the frame? I'm planning on getting the 150-wap, anyone see any issues hanging from hooks like Muzz has done? Any other suggestions/concerns?


My 120" is hanging with zero issues. I just removed a screw already in place on the trim and attached the hanger there as opposed to drilling a new hole.


----------



## robc1976

Its a great screen, here are 16:9 photos after calibration


----------



## xxrb1

robc1976 said:


> Its a great screen, here are 16:9 photos after calibration


Is the second picture your home, looks like the Alps scenery?


----------



## robc1976

xxrb1 said:


> Is the second picture your home, looks like the Alps scenery?


 I wish!. That is just a test pattern picture.


----------



## Dunragit2

In your opinion what do you think the gain is? Not the advertised gain. Thanks.


----------



## Greg_R

Thanks for the informative thread everyone. I ended up with a 135" 16:9 white screen and still can't believe how easily it went together and how nice it looks for the price.

Tip: Use your projected image to mark the drilling points for the mount. Ensure that the image is level and zoom out for the desired mounting height. You can do the same for the bottom but be sure to measure & use the distance between the mounting holes.

Also, Spax cabinet screws fit in the mounting hardware holes perfectly if you want to mount the screen into a stud.


----------



## NewbieinATL

Gorilla Killa said:


> My 120" is hanging with zero issues. I just removed a screw already in place on the trim and attached the hanger there as opposed to drilling a new hole.


What kind of hanger? Got any pics? Just ordered the 150" wab, should be here next week and want to be ready to assemble, hand, calibrate and have a week or two to get ready for FOOTBALL!!!


----------



## NewbieinATL

NewbieinATL said:


> What kind of hanger? Got any pics? Just ordered the 150" wab, should be here next week and want to be ready to assemble, hand, calibrate and have a week or two to get ready for FOOTBALL!!!


Hang...


----------



## Gorilla Killa

NewbieinATL said:


> Hang...


Ill post pics tomorrow, most important is to make sure the screen is level and perpendicular to the pj. If not you will have problems setting up and use too much keystone. Ive read where quite a few have had a hard time getting the picture right, use a tape measure and you could hang it with string if you wanted, not that im recommending that.


----------



## SparHeel

Gorilla Killa said:


> I have a 120" AT ...have zero complaints for under $500.


Killa, could you elaborate a bit on what you think of your ST AT screen? On AVS and around the net, there are countless comments on ST's solid screens, and almost all very positive. But, I can't find as much as a handful of comments on the ST AT screen. 

In fairness, I haven't (yet) ordered a sample from ST, but my past experience with small screen samples is that they aren't very helpful. The type of review comments I find most helpful, whether it's screens, PJs, speakers, or what have you, are comparisons with similar items from first-hand experience.

So, how would you compare your ST AT with other screens you have had...or seen? Both solid and AT. Is it darker? or brighter? than... Is the weave noticeable? and from what distance? How far back do you sit? Any hotspotting or other negative qualities? Is the PQ as sharp and clear as _______________? What PJs do you use? Is your room dark? Velvetized? etc., etc.

Thanks for any and all thoughts. And, of course, for anyone else using, or having seen, the ST AT. It's not an academic question...I'm shopping for an upgrade to my 120" x 60" spandex milliskin W/B. There are a number of choices out there. I'm looking to stay under $1K. With any luck, far under $1K heh heh.


----------



## bgeery

Uncle Q said:


> I haven't (yet) ordered a sample from ST, but my past experience with small screen samples is that they aren't very helpful.


FYI, Silver Ticket does not offer samples.


----------



## SteveCallas

Yes they do.

Their AT fabric is virtually identical in picture performance to the Severston SAT 4k in my testing, even though the fabrics are very different. The Silver Ticket is relatively thick, dense, and interwoven just like the Screen Innovations Maestro, but the Maestro is a brighter white. The Severston is much thinner, lighter, and woven tighter.


----------



## Gorilla Killa

Uncle Q said:


> Killa, could you elaborate a bit on what you think of your ST AT screen? On AVS and around the net, there are countless comments on ST's solid screens, and almost all very positive. But, I can't find as much as a handful of comments on the ST AT screen.
> 
> In fairness, I haven't (yet) ordered a sample from ST, but my past experience with small screen samples is that they aren't very helpful. The type of review comments I find most helpful, whether it's screens, PJs, speakers, or what have you, are comparisons with similar items from first-hand experience.
> 
> So, how would you compare your ST AT with other screens you have had...or seen? Both solid and AT. Is it darker? or brighter? than... Is the weave noticeable? and from what distance? How far back do you sit? Any hotspotting or other negative qualities? Is the PQ as sharp and clear as _______________? What PJs do you use? Is your room dark? Velvetized? etc., etc.
> 
> Thanks for any and all thoughts. And, of course, for anyone else using, or having seen, the ST AT. It's not an academic question...I'm shopping for an upgrade to my 120" x 60" spandex milliskin W/B. There are a number of choices out there. I'm looking to stay under $1K. With any luck, far under $1K heh heh.


Take all my answers with a grain of salt, Im a newborn to the pj world, I was offered a deal I couldnt pass up and started this much sooner then planned.

I sit 9ft from a 120" screen with velvet 5 feet out on all surfaces. PJ is a RS400 and zero hot spotting that I can notice, weave is not noticeable either. Full disclosure, I bought this screen because of the price only with the intent to move up to a Cima Neve at some point after the room is done.


@NewbieinATL


----------



## SparHeel

Thanks, @Gorilla Killa for those comments which all sound positive even though you don't seem completely happy with it either (_...intent to move up to a Cima Neve at some point after the room is done_). 

Not seeing any weave/texture at nine feet is particularly good news since one of the screens I've been considering is the Seymour XD which many say is problematic when the nearest seat is closer than ten feet, which is my seat's distance from the screen. 

I feel about my spandex screen somewhat as you do about the ST AT, which is that I put it up as an newbie experiment...to check screen size at different aspect ratios, to check seating distance, and to check picture quality. The PQ has been much better than I expected, also shooting with an RS400, but it lacks just a little pop that I know is available with the right screen/room combination. But, like you, my direct experience is limited, so that's why I look to AVSers for as many comments and comparisons as possible.

Thanks to you, too, @SteveCallas. Though I haven't seen the Severtson 4K, I know how highly regarded it is having read many positive comments about its PQ. Comparing the ST to such a high $$ screen is telling in itself. I've been following - with great interest - your comparisons and comments in the AT High Gain Screen thread (and your build thread), a process which led you to the Silver Ticket AT. You, along with at least one other poster, are hanging an ST AT this weekend. I'm very anxious to hear your thoughts when you are looking at the entire screen as opposed to just a letter-sized sample!


----------



## Gorilla Killa

@Uncle Q to be fair, for the price of the screen it does a nice job. When looking I didn't see any AT screens in that price range and that was most important to me at the time.

I havent taken any measurements because I dont want to obsess over the audio at the moment. I also dont do critical listening, for movies its more than good enough for now. It is thick as Steve said so Im sure its not the perfect animal. I had a bunch of samples sent and The Cima I liked the most for my price range. I wasnt really ready to start this project but I wasnt leaving the pj in the box for 6 months either.

If you have more money to spend you might do better.


When I get ready to look at switching then I will take some measurements, until then I dont want to know.


----------



## pbpatel98

I'm zeroing in on the STR-169135 (16:9, 135", White Material) but looking for clarification/confirmation that I'm making the right choice. I've tried going through a lot of this thread but am a bit lost. I have a BenQ HT2050 on the way. Here are my questions:

* Should I be looking at white, grey, or ?? I have a room with a lot of windows but will be putting blackout shades in all of them, expect it to be low ambient light most of the time
* Does 135" seem about the right size? I know this is highly subjective. I will have 2 rows of seating approx. ~12' and 17' viewing distance. The fam likes to sit in the middle of the theater if that helps
* Is this a good match for the BenQ HT2050?

Thanks!


----------



## Gorilla Killa

Most people suggest getting the pj up, shoot on the wall and then decide. I sit 9 ft from 120" and it fits my field of vision and only seldom do I feel like I need to move my eyes. I cant comment on a ALR screen since I have zero experience, but if you have light in the room you'll most likely benefit from it.


----------



## bscool

pbpatel98 said:


> I'm zeroing in on the STR-169135 (16:9, 135", White Material) but looking for clarification/confirmation that I'm making the right choice. I've tried going through a lot of this thread but am a bit lost. I have a BenQ HT2050 on the way. Here are my questions:
> 
> * Should I be looking at white, grey, or ?? I have a room with a lot of windows but will be putting blackout shades in all of them, expect it to be low ambient light most of the time
> * Does 135" seem about the right size? I know this is highly subjective. I will have 2 rows of seating approx. ~12' and 17' viewing distance. The fam likes to sit in the middle of the theater if that helps
> * Is this a good match for the BenQ HT2050?
> 
> Thanks!


I agree with what Gorilla said, put the projector up and shine it on the wall before buying a screen. You will probably like it bigger than you think. Is there a that is what she said joke in there 

In all seriousness, I think it lets you judge much more accurately by actually using the PJ on a wall for a while first to get a feel for the size you want.


----------



## PENDRAG0ON

Hey, I'm in the market to replace my first gen 70" Sharp LCD (served me well for 6 years now, 22,000 hours logged) and I'm leaning projector. I'm wanting to go with an ultra short throw in a moderately lit living room. There are two normal sized windows on either side of the room so ambient light is a thing I'll need to deal with. I'm looking at LG's PF1000UW for my projector, and either the High Contrast or Silver options from Silver Ticket for my screen (leaning 120" currently) at a viewing distance of 11 feet. It will be used primarily for gaming on my PC as well as web browsing and streaming with the occasional bluray. I've been away from AVS for quite a while now to avoid the upgrade itch, but you can only run for so long...

I do have the option of converting an unused bedroom into a more proper theater, it would just require more work. (Which I might put in just for the convenience)


----------



## Dominic Chan

PENDRAG0ON said:


> I'm wanting to go with an ultra short throw in a moderately lit living room. There are two normal sized windows on either side of the room so ambient light is a thing I'll need to deal with. I'm looking at LG's PF1000UW for my projector, and either the High Contrast or Silver options from Silver Ticket for my screen (leaning 120" currently) at a viewing distance of 11 feet. It will be )


ALR (Ambient Light Rejecting) screens do not work well with ultra short throw projectors. The HC screen is a much better choice than the Silver screen because is the wider viewing angle. Besides, people have bad experience in general with the ST silver screen.


----------



## DrMac210

Gorilla Killa said:


> I have a 120" AT and it came with lg and small springs. I used all the small ones, it came out taut and have zero complaints for under $500.
> 
> @wickedg8gt send that screen back for a replacement.


Wish I would have seen this a few days ago.

Put together the exact same screen on Saturday and we were confused with the two different sizes of springs. (the instructions are of ZERO help......).

Ended up putting all the larger springs on first and there were noticeable waves in the screen. Went back and put all the smaller springs on and the screen is now tight as a drum.


----------



## Gorilla Killa

DrMac210 said:


> Wish I would have seen this a few days ago.
> 
> Put together the exact same screen on Saturday and we were confused with the two different sizes of springs. (the instructions are of ZERO help......).
> 
> Ended up putting all the larger springs on first and there were noticeable waves in the screen. Went back and put all the smaller springs on and the screen is now tight as a drum.


Yeah, the instructions are almost useless. Im not 100% sure but I thing the small springs were added after some complaints. The video I saw doesn't mention them, fail on their part but for the price I give them a pass.


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## SteveCallas

I used the large springs for the screen, and I cut holes to screw the black backer in like their video shows, but I ended up using the small springs to keep the black backer stretched out tight. The screws in the corners and middle just wasn't enough for that backer material and duct tape does not stick for very long. I folded the backer material over on all the edges before pushing the spring through it.

No waves in my screen and a blow dryer got all the wrinkles out the first night.


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## jlj93byu

heron25 said:


> what speakers did you go with? I'm putting Klipsh THX in-walls in with in-ceiling atmos speakers.


What specific speakers did you use? I'm building my theater next year and am doing as much research as I can and trying to be thorough. Audio is my first priority. I'm perusing many different threads as I am newer to this forum, but am learning a lot pretty fast. I've been out of the market for 7 years and a lot has changed.


----------



## jlj93byu

muzz said:


> My 106" ST AT screen is hanging from the ceiling on 2 hooks, and it works fine.
> Love having speakers behind it.


This is exactly the set-up I'm considering right now. My room isn't very big, only about 1400 cubic feet, so to avoid a crammed front wall I'm looking at hanging a ST AT screen from the ceiling so I can position my speakers in the best position without having to cram them around the screen. What's your speaker set-up?


----------



## heron25

jlj93byu said:


> What specific speakers did you use? I'm building my theater next year and am doing as much research as I can and trying to be thorough. Audio is my first priority. I'm perusing many different threads as I am newer to this forum, but am learning a lot pretty fast. I've been out of the market for 7 years and a lot has changed.


Klipsch Pro-6504-L-THX LCR, Klipsch Pro-6502-L-THX RS/LS, Klipsch CDT-5650-C II atmos, Klipsch R-110sw x2, Pioneer Elite SC-_LX701_, Silver Screen AT 120", Sony VPL-hw45es


----------



## elee532

Patriot666 said:


> Value wise a Benq W1070 and Silver Ticket screen combo can't be beat IMO. (Except their acoustic transparent screen. I can't recommend that.)



@Patriot666... Why do you say that you can't recommend the Silver Ticket acoustic transparent screen?

Anyone else able to comment on the Silver Ticket acoustic transparent screen? Is Elite's acoustic screen any better?

Thanks!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## gnolivos

elee532 said:


> @Patriot666... Why do you say that you can't recommend the Silver Ticket acoustic transparent screen?
> 
> Anyone else able to comment on the Silver Ticket acoustic transparent screen? Is Elite's acoustic screen any better?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




I have the Silverticket 110in acoustically transparent screen. I love it to death. 

At first I had a 1080p projector and it showed Moire which was annoying. But I soon after upgraded to a 4K (faux k) projector and it shows absolutely zero Moire. Awesome screen for 4K!!!


----------



## elee532

gnolivos said:


> I have the Silverticket 110in acoustically transparent screen. I love it to death.
> 
> At first I had a 1080p projector and it showed Moire which was annoying. But I soon after upgraded to a 4K (faux k) projector and it shows absolutely zero Moire. Awesome screen for 4K!!!




Thanks for sharing @gnolivos!! My projector is 1080p. Bummer to hear about the moire issue at 1080p. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## hibeta

elee532 said:


> @Patriot666... Why do you say that you can't recommend the Silver Ticket acoustic transparent screen?
> 
> Anyone else able to comment on the Silver Ticket acoustic transparent screen? Is Elite's acoustic screen any better?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I have the Silver Ticket 138" curved AT screen purchased 2014 paired with Sony projector...absolutely thrilled with it.


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## nellie75

How would a Silver Ticket STR-235 125 inch screen 1.1 gain white screen be like for a JVC 540? I currently have a Carada 1.0 gain Cinema white that i love but it is too big for my new room. Will there be a noticeable picture quality difference?


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## Gorilla Killa

nellie75 said:


> How would a Silver Ticket STR-235 125 inch screen 1.1 gain white screen be like for a JVC 540? I currently have a Carada 1.0 gain Cinema white that i love but it is too big for my new room. Will there be a noticeable picture quality difference?


Get a sample, since you've been using a Carada there's no way for anyway to answer it


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## nellie75

Gorilla Killa said:


> Get a sample, since you've been using a Carada there's no way for anyway to answer it


Does Silver Ticket to samples? I thought someone said they didn't. Anyway, I did see a post way back in this thread on someone with a Carada and a Silver Ticket. They seemed to think the picture quality was about the same with the Carada having better build quality. I may pull the trigger on a Silver Ticket on craigslist (new in box for $150).


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## pdermody

hibeta said:


> I have the Silver Ticket 138" curved AT screen purchased 2014 paired with Sony projector...absolutely thrilled with it.





elee532 said:


> Thanks for sharing @*gnolivos* !! My projector is 1080p. Bummer to hear about the moire issue at 1080p.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


FWIW, I have the 120" AT with a Sony [email protected] and I have no moire issues. As for AT properties, degradation is noticeable to my ears (not the wifes), Audyssey helps to a point, but I found just turning up the volume more seemed to help more. 

One day I may experiment with a DIY solution or perhaps just send off the screen to Seymour to make a drop in screen for the ST frame, in the meanwhile it is good enough, especially considering what I paid for it...

-pd


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## Patriot666

elee532 said:


> @Patriot666... Why do you say that you can't recommend the Silver Ticket acoustic transparent screen?
> 
> Anyone else able to comment on the Silver Ticket acoustic transparent screen? Is Elite's acoustic screen any better?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Sorry I didn't see your post. I've been off the forum for a bit. I had issues with my ST AT screen. The material had wrinkles around the edges. It sounds like it may have just been mine though as others here have said they are happy with theirs. I ended up spending quite a bit more on a Falcon Horizon AT screen and I'm very happy with it.


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## techjoy

Hi everyone.

I am looking for a 135-138" 16:9 AT screen, on a tight budget. These get good reviews on the web, so I might bite. Anyone using a similar sized screen with AT fabric or CineWhite 1.1 gain material and an Epson 5040UB? What is your sitting distance from the screen? My sofa is at 13'-6" and I'm wondering what the largest 16:9 or perhaps 2.35:1 screen I could use without going batty. I taped a 125" 2.35:1 and it look good, but I don't want to have any regrets. My room is 11'-5" wide X 18'-5" L.

Thanks fellas!


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## Gorilla Killa

This is AVS, going batty doesnt happen on any level. Go as big as you can, seating distance is all preference. Worst case if its too big you scoot back a foot or two. I sit 9ft from 120"


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## Patriot666

techjoy said:


> Hi everyone.
> 
> I am looking for a 135-138" 16:9 AT screen, on a tight budget. These get good reviews on the web, so I might bite. Anyone using a similar sized screen with AT fabric or CineWhite 1.1 gain material and an Epson 5040UB? What is your sitting distance from the screen? My sofa is at 13'-6" and I'm wondering what the largest 16:9 or perhaps 2.35:1 screen I could use without going batty. I taped a 125" 2.35:1 and it look good, but I don't want to have any regrets. My room is 11'-5" wide X 18'-5" L.
> 
> Thanks fellas!


I sit about 10 feet from a 120" wide 2:35 screen. I had a 138" but it was too big so I went smaller. I'm definitely a bigger is better type, but we found that we were having eye strain and it made watching movies unenjoyable. 

Also this is strictly my 2 cents, but you might want to just shoot onto a wall until you can afford a high quality screen. The AT material and image on my Horizon screen is so much better than the ST it replaced (at a high cost of course).


----------



## Viche

Patriot666 said:


> I sit about 10 feet from a 120" wide 2:35 screen. I had a 138" but it was too big so I went smaller. I'm definitely a bigger is better type, but we found that we were having eye strain and it made watching movies unenjoyable.
> 
> Also this is strictly my 2 cents, but you might want to just shoot onto a wall until you can afford a high quality screen. The AT material and image on my Horizon screen is so much better than the ST it replaced (at a high cost of course).


This the first I've heard of another screen material being highly superior to ST. I'm surprised after having read the wirecutter review that had Silver Ticket better than every other material they tested and performing only a little worse than the Stewart. The reviewer even says "In fact, measuring it against my own $2,700 screen made me wish I’d gotten the Silver Ticket instead."

What's going on here. I was all set to buy the ST.


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## Patriot666

Viche said:


> This the first I've heard of another screen material being highly superior to ST. I'm surprised after having read the wirecutter review that had Silver Ticket better than every other material they tested and performing only a little worse than the Stewart. The reviewer even says "In fact, measuring it against my own $2,700 screen made me wish I’d gotten the Silver Ticket instead."
> 
> What's going on here. I was all set to buy the ST.


With the 138" at 10 feet I could see the weave on the ST, but just barely. It created kind of a screen door effect in certain images. Mainly only during white letter credits which didn't bother me. I didn't notice it until I got the Falcon Horizon which has a tighter weave fabric and no screen door effect. Like I said it wasn't the image quality that made me return it, it was the wrinkles all around the edges. I went through two ST screens with this issue. I followed the assembly instructions to a T as well. ST uses springs to hold the screen tight to the frame. Falcon uses plastic strips that make the assembly easy and put less stress on the screen material. 


This was just my personal experience and I'm not at all trying to dissuade anyone. Seems lots of people are happy with their ST AT screens. I loved my non AT ST grey screen. Hopefully if you get one it'll be nice and flat.


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## muzz

My ST 106" AT Screen is fine @12', I don't see SDE at all, and the material is flat.
I actually like the frame as well.
Happy with mine, especially for the price.


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## MikeJ13

Hello,

Fairly new to projectors but I just bought a silver ticket thin bezel grey. After unraveling the material it appears more white then grey. Wondering if that is correct. If anyone has a grey and can confirm if it indeed looks more white. There’s no indication on the package that material is grey. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Dave in Green

Viche said:


> This the first I've heard of another screen material being highly superior to ST. I'm surprised after having read the wirecutter review that had Silver Ticket better than every other material they tested and performing only a little worse than the Stewart. The reviewer even says "In fact, measuring it against my own $2,700 screen made me wish I’d gotten the Silver Ticket instead."
> 
> What's going on here. I was all set to buy the ST.


All of the positive Silver Ticket reviews like the one at thewirecutter.com have been about the non-AT screen materials. I haven't seen any professional reviews of the ST AT material. But AT screens can be very fussy with the different weave sizes creating different moiré effects that can vary from installation to installation. So what works for one may not work for another.


----------



## Viche

Patriot666 said:


> With the 138" at 10 feet I could see the weave on the ST, but just barely. It created kind of a screen door effect in certain images. Mainly only during white letter credits which didn't bother me. I didn't notice it until I got the Falcon Horizon which has a tighter weave fabric and no screen door effect. Like I said it wasn't the image quality that made me return it, it was the wrinkles all around the edges. I went through two ST screens with this issue. I followed the assembly instructions to a T as well. ST uses springs to hold the screen tight to the frame. Falcon uses plastic strips that make the assembly easy and put less stress on the screen material.
> 
> 
> This was just my personal experience and I'm not at all trying to dissuade anyone. Seems lots of people are happy with their ST AT screens. I loved my non AT ST grey screen. Hopefully if you get one it'll be nice and flat.





Dave in Green said:


> All of the positive Silver Ticket reviews like the one at thewirecutter.com have been about the non-AT screen materials. I haven't seen any professional reviews of the ST AT material. But AT screens can be very fussy with the different weave sizes creating different moiré effects that can vary from installation to installation. So what works for one may not work for another.


Got it. Sorry I was confused and thought that the comment above was about the non-AT screens. Anyone feel like their seen non-AT material that was noticeably superior to ST?


----------



## jasonwc07

*Comparable material from Stewart vs the ST Matte White 1.1 gain?*

I currently have a 120" Silver Ticket White 1.1 gain screen. I noticed the Wire Cutter compared the Silver Ticket to the Stewart StudioTek 130G which has a 1.3 gain. However, I've never noticed any sparkling from the Silver Ticket, it appears to reflect evenly in all directions, and can be viewed even from extreme viewing angles. Thus, it appears to be a closer match to the StudioTek 100, since that material is a Lambertian surface with no maximum viewing angle. Indeed, I've found that for excellent results with a JVC RS-49 projector, the Silver Ticket requires a fully darkened room (dark walls, ceiling, carpet, seating). I had exceptional results with a room with complete light control, black velvet coated walls and ceilings, as well as a black rug, and dark furnishings. 

The recommendation for the StudioTek 100 indicate that it is only for fully darkened rooms with total light control. Silver Ticket makes a similar suggestion but I see a lot of people using it in rooms with white walls and ceilings. Specifically, they say: "Best results occur with a dedicated theater with little no no ambient lighting and dark, matte-colored walls."
Perhaps it's simply that the StudioTek costs 10x more so it wouldn't make sense to use it in a sub-optimal manner. 

I'm considering upgrading to a 120" screen with StudioTek 100 material and am wondering if controlling reflected light of walls/ceilings will be any more of an issue with the StudioTek 100 than the Silver Ticket. I have some samples on the way of the StudioTek 100 and 130, but I'm not sure how helpful that will be in answering my question. Any advice would be much appreciated.


----------



## robc1976

jasonwc07 said:


> I currently have a 120" Silver Ticket White 1.1 gain screen. I noticed the Wire Cutter compared the Silver Ticket to the Stewart StudioTek 130G which has a 1.3 gain. However, I've never noticed any sparkling from the Silver Ticket, it appears to reflect evenly in all directions, and can be viewed even from extreme viewing angles. Thus, it appears to be a closer match to the StudioTek 100, since that material is a Lambertian surface with no maximum viewing angle. Indeed, I've found that for excellent results with a JVC RS-49 projector, the Silver Ticket requires a fully darkened room (dark walls, ceiling, carpet, seating). I had exceptional results with a room with complete light control, black velvet coated walls and ceilings, as well as a black rug, and dark furnishings.
> 
> The recommendation for the StudioTek 100 indicate that it is only for fully darkened rooms with total light control. Silver Ticket makes a similar suggestion but I see a lot of people using it in rooms with white walls and ceilings. Specifically, they say: "Best results occur with a dedicated theater with little no no ambient lighting and dark, matte-colored walls."
> Perhaps it's simply that the StudioTek costs 10x more so it wouldn't make sense to use it in a sub-optimal manner.
> 
> I'm considering upgrading to a 120" screen with StudioTek 100 material and am wondering if controlling reflected light of walls/ceilings will be any more of an issue with the StudioTek 100 than the Silver Ticket. I have some samples on the way of the StudioTek 100 and 130, but I'm not sure how helpful that will be in answering my question. Any advice would be much appreciated.


I have a had a 158" elite screen and went to my current 158 ST non AT screen. Always thought I could get more detail out of my elite screen. 

I am replacing my ST screen with a Stewart cima screen.

Is the ST worth the price....100% is. Is it as good as Stewart no way, 130 not even in same league. I clearly see arifacts in some scenes and noticed I couldn't get the detail I could on a elite screen, then I saw the difference on my buddies ST vs his new stewart screen and that is why I am ordering a stewart.

Colors are better and contrast is better but biggest difference is the level of detail the stewart screen has.

I am not bashing the ST its a great budget screen, nice built thick frame, good customer service but it will not give same picture as stewart. The screen material is just not as good period.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## robc1976

robc1976 said:


> I have a had a 158" elite screen and went to my current 158 ST non AT screen. Always thought I could get more detail out of my elite screen.
> 
> I am replacing my ST screen with a Stewart cima screen.
> 
> Is the ST worth the price....100% is. Is it as good as Stewart no way, 130 not even in same league. I clearly see arifacts in some scenes and noticed I couldn't get the detail I could on a elite screen, then I saw the difference on my buddies ST vs his new stewart screen and that is why I am ordering a stewart.
> 
> Colors are better and contrast is better but biggest difference is the level of detail the stewart screen has.
> 
> I am not bashing the ST its a great budget screen, nice built thick frame, good customer service but it will not give same picture as stewart. The screen material is just not as good period.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Also want to add stewart cima 1.1 gain actually measured 1.25 gain, very close to the 130's 1.3 gain and craig peer (dealer here) says it would be hard to see difference between the cima and 130 but cima is cheaper.

The ST 1.1measures under .90 not even 1.0. From measurements my calibrator measured and from online specs.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## jasonwc07

robc1976 said:


> Also want to add stewart cima 1.1 gain actually measured 1.25 gain, very close to the 130's 1.3 gain and craig peer (dealer here) says it would be hard to see difference between the cima and 130 but cima is cheaper.
> 
> The ST 1.1measures under .90 not even 1.0. From measurements my calibrator measured and from online specs.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


I looked everywhere for an actual gain measurement on the Silver Ticket and couldn't find it. I couldn't figure out how they managed 1.1 gain without any sparkling artifacts; apparently the answer is they didn't. That's good to know because I was somewhat concerned the StudioTek 100 (1.0 gain) might not be bright enough.

I assume you are getting the Cima screen with the Neve material from your description (AccuCalAV report shows its gain is around 1.25, and it is described as a cheaper alternative to the 130). 

One thing I noticed about the ST screen is that the material is not fully smooth. In bright scenes, this seems to result in an artifact best described as a textured pattern that looks like grain, but without the movement that grain exhibits. The StudioTek 100 is the smoothest surface I've seen, at least from online photos, and reviews indicate it has no discernible texture. However, I agree that the ST screens are 100% work their price.


----------



## robc1976

jasonwc07 said:


> I looked everywhere for an actual gain measurement on the Silver Ticket and couldn't find it. I couldn't figure out how they managed 1.1 gain without any sparkling artifacts; apparently the answer is they didn't. That's good to know because I was somewhat concerned the StudioTek 100 (1.0 gain) might not be bright enough.
> 
> I assume you are getting the Cima screen with the Neve material from your description (AccuCalAV report shows its gain is around 1.25, and it is described as a cheaper alternative to the 130).
> 
> One thing I noticed about the ST screen is that the material is not fully smooth. In bright scenes, this seems to result in an artifact best described as a textured pattern that looks like grain, but without the movement that grain exhibits. The StudioTek 100 is the smoothest surface I've seen, at least from online photos, and reviews indicate it has no discernible texture. However, I agree that the ST screens are 100% work their price.


Yes, in bright scenes and even very dark scenes I see a sparkling effect, thought it was pixel shift on my Epson...nope its that ST screen material, its very textured almost like a vinyl sign.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## Balthezor

I have a Sony 385ES 4k projector incoming. 

Is the Silver Ticket 1.3gain 135inch screen good enough for 4k? Or should I invest in something more expensive?


----------



## robc1976

Balthezor said:


> I have a Sony 385ES 4k projector incoming.
> 
> Is the Silver Ticket 1.3gain 135inch screen good enough for 4k? Or should I invest in something more expensive?


Really depends, is it a bad screen...no...is it a great screen nope. Is it worth $300 yes. Can the sliver ticket do 4K? Yes it can, is it actually 1.3 gain I doubt it. My 1.1 gain screen was at 90.

If your budget allows it and your willing to pay for the better quality go with below. I have had 3 screens and decided I want a higher-end screen so went with stewart cima. 

Stewart cima nueve
Stewart 130 G3

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## Viche

robc1976 said:


> I have a had a 158" elite screen and went to my current 158 ST non AT screen. Always thought I could get more detail out of my elite screen.
> 
> I am replacing my ST screen with a Stewart cima screen.
> 
> Is the ST worth the price....100% is. Is it as good as Stewart no way, 130 not even in same league. I clearly see arifacts in some scenes and noticed I couldn't get the detail I could on a elite screen, then I saw the difference on my buddies ST vs his new stewart screen and that is why I am ordering a stewart.
> 
> Colors are better and contrast is better but biggest difference is the level of detail the stewart screen has.
> 
> I am not bashing the ST its a great budget screen, nice built thick frame, good customer service but it will not give same picture as stewart. The screen material is just not as good period.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Why'd you switch from elite to ST if the elite was superior?


----------



## robc1976

Viche said:


> Why'd you switch from elite to ST if the elite was superior?


I had a 135" elite, then wanted bigger and thought why not get different screen. Figured it could be better and $200 cheaper and actually liked the idea of the thicker frame.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## Viche

robc1976 said:


> I had a 135" elite, then wanted bigger and thought why not get different screen. Figured it could be better and $200 cheaper and actually liked the idea of the thicker frame.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Got it (you had said 158" elite), but the elite was definitely better?


----------



## robc1976

Viche said:


> Got it (you had said 158" elite), but the elite was definitely better?


For sure, the way the sliver ticket uses springs is not ideal either. The springs tend to not be equal, I had to use the higher spring rates and it was a real pain.

The elite clips in, much better.

The image had more detail, when focusing you can fine tune it much more than the ST. Elite also did not have many if any artifacts in picture.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## Stephen Hopkins

I've skimmed most of the second half of this thread and haven't seen this answered... *can anyone compare the Grey and High Contrast materials*? 

I'm in the process of planning for a theater overhaul in the spring and most of it will center around an Epson HC 4000 and 115" 2.35:1 ST screen. I've mostly narrowed it to the Grey or High Contrast, but I'm trying to discern which, if either, would give the best results in a light-controlled room for general black level and HDR performance. Any insight is appreciated.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Dave in Green

Silver Ticket actually has quite a bit of information on their website comparing the various screen materials. For example they have a specific answer to your question:



> *How do I choose between Grey and High Contrast?*
> 
> Grey and High Contrast Grey are both have very similar properties. Both screens are designed to carry black shades even in situations where the lighting is less than ideal.
> 
> The High Contrast Grey is much darker than the Grey, which allows for a better viewing experience in theaters where there is little to no control of lighting and/or natural light spilling in. Great for family rooms or entry level home theater enthusiasts. It can be played in the daytime or the nighttime. This screen supports projectors with a very week contrast.
> 
> The Grey screen is much lighter than the High Contrast but still is darker than the white, which gives it still the ability to hold those black levels. The Grey is ideal in theaters that have mostly control over the lighting, but still want to have lights on for other activities while viewing. For instance, playing foosball and eating food while projecting the big game. This screen helps support projectors with mid-range contrast levels.


*
silverticketproducts.com/pages/how-do-i-choose-between-grey-and-high-contrast*


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

Thanks for that! Looks like Grey is the way to go for my room, which has solid light control but occasionally sees use with a single 40w lamp on (kids movies, video games, sports, etc).


----------



## Laserfan

Stephen Hopkins said:


> Thanks for that! Looks like Grey is the way to go for my room, which has solid light control but occasionally sees use with a single 40w lamp on (kids movies, video games, sports, etc).


I too have good light control, but still chose the High Contrast simply because, after living with a white screen for many years, I wanted to go to the dark side!



A new UHD TV that I bought has such ultra blacks, I want to try to see similar in my new HT. Only yesterday did I unbox and assemble my STR-235125-HC; what a pleasure that was i.e. the parts & pieces all went together well and the screen material is pretty awesome. I will report-in here when I get the new PJ running.

EDIT: Put-up the first images from my Sony 385 pj and the results are astonishing. The HC material is somewhat disconcerting out-of-the-box because it is so grey looking, but put a picture up on it and it is fantastic. Blacks are black and whites are white; no anomalies that I can detect. Glad I went with Silver Ticket and the High Contrast material.


----------



## RUN-NE1

I went with the Silver ticket 138" WAB AT 2.35:1 that measures 142" diagonal as noted on the diagrams. I was very concerned about the weave being visible after seeing it in person or moire issues as I only sit 10' away. JVC RS420 here and looks awesome not saying a studiotek 130 or what ever wouldn't look better but for $500 for a AT huge screen I have found no flaws in it. Seems weird to me but double checked contrast and brightness and required 5 steps of adjustment each to get back inline. Watched many movies on it over the weekend and love the lens shift and wide screen. Zero sparkles!! I don't believe only .02 db quieter I think they misplaced a decibel point...But easy to fix.


----------



## JackB

I'm looking for the best 100" price performer to be hung on the wall in a light controlled room. I've had a 106' ST before(in fact gave it away on this forum) and thought it was good but in fact preferred my old Da-Lite HP. Is there any other similar priced but a little better performing screen than the ST?

The room is small, 11' x 13', and we have found that watching on the short side gives us the best feeling although the short viewing distance may be a problem. We've been watching on the 13 foot length for a few months but thought we would try the 11' distance. The eyes to screen would be about 9.5 to 10 feet. I'm watching on wall now at about 100"s and although quite large it seems to work. Will give it some more time before deciding.

Any opinions would be appreciated.


----------



## SteveCallas

RUN-NE1 said:


> I went with the Silver ticket 138" WAB AT 2.35:1 that measures 142" diagonal as noted on the diagrams. I was very concerned about the weave being visible after seeing it in person or moire issues as I only sit 10' away. JVC RS420 here and looks awesome not saying a studiotek 130 or what ever wouldn't look better but for $500 for a AT huge screen I have found no flaws in it. Seems weird to me but double checked contrast and brightness and required 5 steps of adjustment each to get back inline


Same here, 142" with JVC RS400 and it required me to turn contrast down and brightness up to be correct. Love the screen, I compared it to several others and it was the winner.


----------



## JackB

I just got a new 100' ST screen in to replace the one I gave away a couple of months ago. Big mistake of course. That being said, has the manufacturer changed the center post install so that it isn't so hard to get it in place because it was a little oversized? I gues I could just find out by doing it but I guess I would like to know ahead of time.


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## robc1976

JackB said:


> I just got a new 100' ST screen in to replace the one I gave away a couple of months ago. Big mistake of course. That being said, has the manufacturer changed the center post install so that it isn't so hard to get it in place because it was a little oversized? I gues I could just find out by doing it but I guess I would like to know ahead of time.


Mine was same way, had to beat the thing into place. Actually replacing my 158" ST with Stuart cima nueve today.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## ereed

robc1976 said:


> Mine was same way, had to beat the thing into place. Actually replacing my 158" ST with Stuart cima nueve today.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Why are you replacing it? Going bigger?


----------



## robc1976

ereed said:


> Why are you replacing it? Going bigger?


Nope, better picture to be honest. My and I both had ST 158" aand he got the cima neuve and the artifacts are gone (grain), colors are better add picture is more lively because St 1.1 gain is actually in the 90's and the cima 1.1 is actually 1.25 gain. 

The ST is a good screen for the money though....NOT denying that, but the cima is better. Also love how the cima goes together add it's construcion is amazing. Really is worth the money.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## JackB

JackB said:


> I just got a new 100' ST screen in to replace the one I gave away a couple of months ago. Big mistake of course. That being said, has the manufacturer changed the center post install so that it isn't so hard to get it in place because it was a little oversized? I gues I could just find out by doing it but I guess I would like to know ahead of time.


So I found that they have changed the center bar slightly and I suspect shortened the bar slightly(very). I unhooked two mounting tabs right of center, placed the far end into the slot, then while my wife and I pulled on the middle bottom I tapped the bar into place using a light weight hammer. It went in quite easily to my surprise but certainly does the trick.


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## muzz

My 106" AT screen has 2 vertical bars instead of just 1( center is open), and while they were tight, they were pretty EZ to get in place with a few taps of a hammer. Still happy with the screen, especially for the price of it.


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## michael1997

From all I can read it seems that Silver Ticket Screen is better than Elite screen. But why Elite screen said that they are hdr ready and Silver Ticket Screen is not.


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## muzz

You should ask them "What does that mean EXACTLY", and watch the garbage come spewing out.


----------



## robc1976

michael1997 said:


> From all I can read it seems that Silver Ticket Screen is better than Elite screen. But why Elite screen said that they are hdr ready and Silver Ticket Screen is not.


Disagree, my elite screen had slightly better picture.. Small but better. My new stuwart cima nueve blows them both away.

If I had to choose between elite and silver ticket I would go elite. Mounting is better and the watt screen attaches are better also. Silver ticket does have a thinker frame. Both good budget screens

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## michael1997

robc1976 said:


> Disagree, my elite screen had slightly better picture.. Small but better. My new stuwart cima nueve blows them both away.
> 
> If I had to choose between elite and silver ticket I would go elite. Mounting is better and the watt screen attaches are better also. Silver ticket does have a thinker frame. Both good budget screens
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


I am ordering some samples to test. I will let you know. lol


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## robc1976

michael1997 said:


> I am ordering some samples to test. I will let you know. lol


I.think you will find that the elite will have more focus and detail. Less artifacts...be sure to test on bright scenes

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## michael1997

robc1976 said:


> I.think you will find that the elite will have more focus and detail. Less artifacts...be sure to test on bright scenes
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


I will do. 

https://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-projector-screen/

From this professional review it seems the sliver ticket is a little better than Elite.

And the goo paint seems not much better than those two. That is what I do not understand. I thought the goo is much better than sliver ticket and Elite. :frown:


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## robc1976

michael1997 said:


> I will do.
> 
> https://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-projector-screen/
> 
> From this professional review it seems the sliver ticket is a little better than Elite.
> 
> And the goo paint seems not much better than those two. That is what I do not understand. I thought the goo is much better than sliver ticket and Elite. :frown:


There reviews are really dont trust because its valued oriented.

Also they compared s stuwart to a silver ticket and the sliver ticket is not even in same league. Its a completely different better picture. Not subtle, its huge.

Also depends on room ect.

The reason they chose the sliver ticket over the elite was for price and more sizes available.

Who cares about that, should be gain, contrast, detail, colors that get the vote.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## michael1997

robc1976 said:


> There reviews are really dont trust because its valued oriented.
> 
> Also they compared s stuwart to a silver ticket and the sliver ticket is not even in same league. Its a completely different better picture. Not subtle, its huge.
> 
> Also depends on room ect.
> 
> The reason they chose the sliver ticket over the elite was for price and more sizes available.
> 
> Who cares about that, should be gain, contrast, detail, colors that get the vote.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


come on. this is sliver ticket thread. you sounds like a elite sales man. lol

why sliver ticket has 1000 good review in the amazon? oh I never read good review. I only read the bad one.


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## muzz

robc1976 said:


> There reviews are really dont trust because its valued oriented.
> 
> Also they compared s stuwart to a silver ticket and the sliver ticket is not even in same league. Its a completely different better picture. Not subtle, its huge.
> 
> Also depends on room ect.
> 
> The reason they chose the sliver ticket over the elite was for price and more sizes available.
> 
> Who cares about that, should be gain, contrast, detail, colors that get the vote.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


He mentioned the Elite and ST were close in price and performance, value had nothing to do with it there, and he STATED the Stewart was noticeably better, but he personally didn't feel the difference was worth the $2200 difference.

Not sure what's wrong with his review tbo.


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## robc1976

muzz said:


> He mentioned the Elite and ST were close in price and performance, value had nothing to do with it there, and he STATED the Stewart was noticeably better, but he personally didn't feel the difference was worth the $2200 difference.
> 
> Not sure what's wrong with his review tbo.


I must have gotten that revuew mixed up with somebody else's, I will say the$2200 difference is actually worth it inmho but I am obssesed with a great picture. That stuart really brings out detail that others didn't especially with games.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## robc1976

michael1997 said:


> come on. this is sliver ticket thread. you sounds like a elite sales man. lol
> 
> why sliver ticket has 1000 good review in the amazon? oh I never read good review. I only read the bad one.


1st off never said it sucked, I owned one (still do) and have stated many times above that the silver ticket is a great screen for the money. It is plain and simple. Not sure how I sound like a salesman when I have not tried to sell anything...just a opinion. 

I was just making sure the guy wss getting what he wanted and I have owned elite, silver ticket and gave him my honest review of the products. Not bashing silver ticket. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## muzz

I needed an AT Screen, and this 1 isn't bad, I don't see any crazy color shifts, and the frame is not bad for a bit over $200.
I looked into getting that AVS(Some other companies fabric) V6 Fabric, and having it sewed (pockets)to accept the rods the ST screen material uses to stretch it taught, but then I have to figure out the actual size needed B4 it stretches too much(holes too big), so I haven't done it yet...I may not in the end.


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## robc1976

michael1997 said:


> come on. this is sliver ticket thread. you sounds like a elite sales man. lol
> 
> why sliver ticket has 1000 good review in the amazon? oh I never read good review. I only read the bad one.


Usually a bad review out of 1000 isc another company trying to discredit them. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## robc1976

muzz said:


> I needed an AT Screen, and this 1 isn't bad, I don't see any crazy color shifts, and the frame is not bad for a bit over $200.
> I looked into getting that AVS(Some other companies fabric) V6 Fabric, and having it sewed (pockets)to accept the rods the ST screen material uses to stretch it taught, but then I have to figure out the actual size needed B4 it stretches too much(holes too big), so I haven't done it yet...I may not in the end.


I have my screen off wall and assembled if you need any measurements.

Mine is the 158"

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## muzz

Only 1 place I could use a 158" screen, but there is a wood stove at that end of the basement, so I'm stuck with 106".
Is what it is..I could measure mine, but then need to find out stretch amounts and stuff to finalize a size for the pockets to be sewed...not sure I'm gonna bother at this point, we'll see.

Thanks


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## bochoss

SteveCallas said:


> Same here, 142" with JVC RS400 and it required me to turn contrast down and brightness up to be correct. Love the screen, I compared it to several others and it was the winner.


I also tried the Silver Ticket 138" WAB screen, but the moire effect was way too pronounced with bright/white content using my Benq HT2050. I ended up sending it back to Amazon. :/


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## SteveCallas

@michael1997 - you've gotten enough input to determine which samples you want to try, I would suggest from here on out you only trust your own eyes.


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## michael1997

SteveCallas said:


> @michael1997 - you've gotten enough input to determine which samples you want to try, I would suggest from here on out you only trust your own eyes.


two samples arrived so far, silver ticket and goo. I do not like silver ticket. :frown:


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## michael1997

thank you for your help. After trying all the samples, I might just give up. keep using my wall.


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## bochoss

RUN-NE1 said:


> I went with the Silver ticket 138" WAB AT 2.35:1 that measures 142" diagonal as noted on the diagrams. I was very concerned about the weave being visible after seeing it in person or moire issues as I only sit 10' away. JVC RS420 here and looks awesome not saying a studiotek 130 or what ever wouldn't look better but for $500 for a AT huge screen I have found no flaws in it.


Curious, are you using e-shift with this screen? I've heard others saying they saw moire with their JVCs, but it went away when they used e-shift. I saw moire with my standard 1080P DLP projector.


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## RUN-NE1

bochoss said:


> RUN-NE1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I went with the Silver ticket 138" WAB AT 2.35:1 that measures 142" diagonal as noted on the diagrams. I was very concerned about the weave being visible after seeing it in person or moire issues as I only sit 10' away. JVC RS420 here and looks awesome not saying a studiotek 130 or what ever wouldn't look better but for $500 for a AT huge screen I have found no flaws in it.
> 
> 
> 
> Curious, are you using e-shift with this screen? I've heard others saying they saw moire with their JVCs, but it went away when they used e-shift. I saw moire with my standard 1080P DLP projector.
Click to expand...

No moire and I was prepared for it. I do use eShift but not always. From what I can tell Grain isn?t vertical or perfectly horizontal. I expected to see the grain/holes but from about 7-8? back I cant. I have 12/20 vision so figured I would be able to see it. Man do I love the 2:35 screen.


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## GlocksRock

I plan to hang my 120" 16x9 silver ticket screen this weekend, do I need to mount it using all 4 mounts, or can I just use the top two?


edit: nevermind, Silver Ticket replied to my email almost instantly saying to use all 4, which is what I figured. Can't wait to get this thing mounted.


----------



## Laserfan

GlocksRock said:


> I plan to hang my 120" 16x9 silver ticket screen this weekend, do I need to mount it using all 4 mounts, or can I just use the top two?
> 
> 
> edit: nevermind, Silver Ticket replied to my email almost instantly saying to use all 4, which is what I figured. Can't wait to get this thing mounted.


Ya know, I'm not sure the bottom two are needed, and they surely make lining-up/hanging and sliding/moving more difficult. You should slide them in place anyway so they're there if you decide you need to use them, but if for whatever reason those are problematic for you to mount, I'd say the screen should hang just fine by two, particularly if you secure the screws into wall studs as you absolutely should.


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## mraub

*Assembly Question*

I'm going to put together a 125" 2.35 model this weekend. I've looked at the videos and wonder if it is possible to install the vertical braces after rolling out the screen material but before attaching the material to the frame (assuming of course that the braces don't block where you need to install a spring). It looks like stretching the screen material is why the center braces are so hard to install. On the other hand, maybe this final stretching is needed to get the material to lie flat. Anyone here try assembly in this way?


For what I paid, I expected a pretty flimsy, lightweight product. I haven't opened the box yet, but the shipping information said the box weighed about 40 pounds and I had to use a cart to get it down to my car.


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## bochoss

mraub said:


> For what I paid, I expected a pretty flimsy, lightweight product. I haven't opened the box yet, but the shipping information said the box weighed about 40 pounds and I had to use a cart to get it down to my car.


The Silver Ticket frames are very strong a beefy. Especially for the price.


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## Laserfan

mraub said:


> I'm going to put together a 125" 2.35 model this weekend. I've looked at the videos and wonder if it is possible to install the vertical braces after rolling out the screen material but before attaching the material to the frame (assuming of course that the braces don't block where you need to install a spring). It looks like stretching the screen material is why the center braces are so hard to install. On the other hand, maybe this final stretching is needed to get the material to lie flat. Anyone here try assembly in this way?
> 
> For what I paid, I expected a pretty flimsy, lightweight product. I haven't opened the box yet, but the shipping information said the box weighed about 40 pounds and I had to use a cart to get it down to my car.


I have read the posts about the "hard to install" center brace, and for mine (also a 125" 2.35 screen) the positioning of the center brace was no trouble at all. I would NOT recommend you try installing that first, or as you will find out I believe, that will make it impossible to get the material in place. As it is, to me anyway, the hardest part was getting the material CENTERED everywhere, and then pushing the fiberglass rods over the nylon posts. The center brace was easy. Hanging from the wall a little tricky as I said a post or two ago.

BTW mine was the High Contrast Grey material, which is some sort of plastic, and I imagine other screen material types might not stretch as the HC and thus be more troublesome.

Another point--there is only one center brace. At least, that was the case for mine.


----------



## mraub

Thanks for the advice; I intend to follow it. The drawings on the website show my screen has two vertical braces. I ordered the acoustically transparent fabric, so a single brace would be in front of the center channel speaker.


----------



## muzz

Yep, AT has 2, center is open.
Pretty EZ to put together, and a few taps with a hammer take care of the braces np.


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## Laserfan

mraub said:


> Thanks for the advice; I intend to follow it. The drawings on the website show my screen has two vertical braces. I ordered the acoustically transparent fabric, so a single brace would be in front of the center channel speaker.


Ah, of course. I'll bet too that the AT fabric doesn't give much, so might be a bit harder to get the braces in place. I'm sure you will be fine if you just take your time with it.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Laserfan said:


> BTW mine was the High Contrast Grey material, which is some sort of plastic, and I imagine other screen material types might not stretch as the HC and thus be more troublesome.


How do you like the ST HC Grey? Have you compared it with the matte white or matte grey?


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## mraub

*Assembly in Progress*

I've got the frame assembled. The splice blocks in the top and bottom did not easily slide in the frames like the videos showed, but a gentle tap with a mallet got them in. The screw holes in the splice block seemed very picky about what screws they like, even though the screws are the same size. Several times it felt like a screw was cross-theading. I backed it out and tried another, identical, screw which went in fine. I have no explanation for that. Fortunately I wasn't using a power driver, so no harm was done. The miters in one corner did not align very well, so I'm going to take it apart and swap sides to see if the fit is better. It shouldn't make any difference, but neither should the screws.

Since I ordered AT screen material, I have two vertical braces. I did not see any slots or anything like that in the top and bottom to indicate where the braces should go. When I reach that point should I just evenly space the braces along the length of the screen? Also I received two sets of springs, on set a bit longer than the other. I'm thinking of starting with the longer springs and only use the shorter ones if I have wrinkles in the screen material. Is that a sound approach?

Thanks.


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## muzz

Mine is only 106", but I just installed the braces 30" from either end, haven't had any issues, and the middle of the screen is wide open for CC.
Slid it in the groove, attached the other end in that groove, and tapped it straight with a mallet.
I'm not certain I got 2 sets of springs, but I've had it for awhile now, so maybe they got complaints about waves and decided to put 2 sizes in the package to help stretch it better...I dunno, but if it were me, I'd probably try the shorter springs 1st so I wouldn't have to do it twice....
The black material- I believe some folks remove screws then go through the material to hold it in place, I don't even use it.


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

I switched gears and toned back my upgrade plans... instead of going 2.35:1 right now, I'm going to hold out for awhile and see what Epson eventually releases to replace the 4000/5040ub and also if AVS ever gets any RS420 B-Stock. In the meantime, I picked up an open-box 16:9 106" Grey (the 1.0 gain, not the HC 0.95 gain) for $185. I have to say, after installing it in place of my 100" DIY 2-layer Spandex screen and running a quick recalibration, I'm THOROUGHLY impressed. It's brighter (makes sense given the gain), blacks are deeper, colors are richer, and it honestly makes it feel like getting a brand new projector. This is with a Vivitek H1180HD claimed 2000 lumen 10,000:1 1080p DLP... though I'll probably replace with an Epson HC3000 claimed 2300 lumen, 60,000:1 1080p 3LCD.


----------



## bochoss

Stephen Hopkins said:


> I have to say, after installing it in place of my 100" DIY 2-layer Spandex screen and running a quick recalibration, I'm THOROUGHLY impressed.


Was your second layer of spandex black or white?


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

bochoss said:


> Was your second layer of spandex black or white?


Front layer was white, back layer was grey/silver, all from the primary source identified in the main DIY Spandex Screen thread.


----------



## mraub

*Mission Accomplished*

And I am a happy camper. Screen material is tight as the preverbal drum. A rubber mallet made short work of installing the braces--I really can't see why anyone would do it any other way. The slightly misaligned miters remain on one side, but I doubt any else but me will ever notice. The seam between two halves of the top and bottom can only be seen standing very close to the screen. The screen material looks almost identical to the Seymour material I've using in my DYI screen. 

Now my decision: clean up the tremendous mess I made or fire up the projector?


----------



## muzz

mraub said:


> And I am a happy camper. Screen material is tight as the preverbal drum. A rubber mallet made short work of installing the braces--I really can't see why anyone would do it any other way. The slightly misaligned miters remain on one side, but I doubt any else but me will ever notice. The seam between two halves of the top and bottom can only be seen standing very close to the screen. The screen material looks almost identical to the Seymour material I've using in my DYI screen.
> 
> Now my decision: clean up the tremendous mess I made or fire up the projector?


Fire it up!


----------



## mraub

I did and am still a satisfied customer. The image is maybe a smidgen brighter than my previous AT screen. I saw no moire or any other defects. The audio was calibrated for my previous screen, but sounded fine. I will run a new Dirac calibration as soon as I finish the rest of the screen wall. I think this was one of best uses of $429 for AV gear I have ever spent.




muzz said:


> Fire it up!


----------



## mraub

In watching some more videos after installation was completed, it appears the Silver Ticket AT screen material produces a somewhat warmer image than my previous AT screen, even though the ST material itself looks whiter than the previous material. I upped the color temperature a few hundred degrees and colors look fine now.


----------



## nissand

Those of you with AT screens, does ST recommend a certain distance between your speaker and the screen? If not, how far back from the screen should the LCRs be placed?


----------



## sid369

I am new to projectors, juts picked up the epson 3700 and the benq 2050a to test. I started the DIY route but I am not handy and I found silver ticket screens on amazon. Thinking of going with this but not sure whether to get the white, silver or grey. It will be in the basement and going by price I think the grey is the best. Also, deciding between 120? or 135?. Sitting will be around 15-16ft from the screen. Also saw some pics on amazon where it was hung from the ceiling joist. Does it provide the hardware or is that I have purchase separately.


----------



## MarcSparks

sid369 said:


> I am new to projectors, juts picked up the epson 3700 and the benq 2050a to test. I started the DIY route but I am not handy and I found silver ticket screens on amazon. Thinking of going with this but not sure whether to get the white, silver or grey. It will be in the basement and going by price I think the grey is the best. Also, deciding between 120? or 135?. Sitting will be around 15-16ft from the screen. Also saw some pics on amazon where it was hung from the ceiling joist. Does it provide the hardware or is that I have purchase separately.


From that seating distance I'd go 135" unless you have low ceilings or something. Screen color, it is hard to say. I used to be a gray screen guy but might be drifting back to white in my upcoming theater. If you do the 3700 at 135" I'd probably go gray. Ht2050 probably stick with white. Don't know much about their silver but that is more special use case material.


----------



## JonnyVee

sid369 said:


> I am new to projectors, juts picked up the epson 3700 and the benq 2050a to test. I started the DIY route but I am not handy and I found silver ticket screens on amazon. Thinking of going with this but not sure whether to get the white, silver or grey. It will be in the basement and going by price I think the grey is the best. Also, deciding between 120? or 135?. Sitting will be around 15-16ft from the screen. Also saw some pics on amazon where it was hung from the ceiling joist. Does it provide the hardware or is that I have purchase separately.


I’d go 135”. I have a 120” and I’m 10’ away.

I also just swapped from the grey to the white and I’m much happier with the white. Image is brighter, whites are white and the blacks still look good. I’m in a basement as well with walls and ceiling that are painted dark. 

Mine is hung on the wall like a picture. Screws are in the wall studs. It sure how you would do the ceiling joist.


----------



## sid369

It?s going to be in my unfinished basement with exposed ceiling joist. So nothing to hang on the wall since it?s platic that covering insulation. I saw a few pics on amazon where someone has hanged it from the ceiling, but I don?t know what size their screen is or if it will have a play since nothing is supporting the bottom. 

The ceiling is 8 feet high, I have been watching different content and for movies the 135? looks great but for me personally tv shows look better on a 120? but movies look a bit smaller. So even with the epson go with the white screen right?


----------



## Dominic Chan

sid369 said:


> It?s going to be in my unfinished basement with exposed ceiling joist. So nothing to hang on the wall since it?s platic that covering insulation. I saw a few pics on amazon where someone has hanged it from the ceiling, but I don?t know what size their screen is or if it will have a play since nothing is supporting the bottom.


I would nail two vertical pieces or 2x4 into the joist and hang the screen on those.


----------



## muzz

My 106" AT is hanging from the ceiling, and has been for around a year(not sure when, I posted here) without issue.
7' ceiling, so didn't even use chain, just 2 cheap carabiniers that hook on eyelets at ceiling/frame.


----------



## sid369

So did you have to drill anything on top of the frame? To hook it to the ceiling any pics, sorry I am a noob at diy.


----------



## muzz

It's been awhile so I had to look...
I installed like 4-5" long Eyehooks in the joists above, and I installed saddles on the frame with self tapping sheet metal screws in the frame, with a round Eyehook inside the saddle, with a caribinier to the ceiling Eyehook. May not be the prettiest, but it's almost Against the ceiling, so I had to go up close to remember...took a couple of pics for you...EZ-PZ.








Yep, Still some sawdust I left up there, and ceiling fabric hanging a bit behind the screen..is what it is, I fixed MOST of it, but the back of the screen Still needs more Staples to clean it up a bit.
BTW, I drilled pilot holes in joist and (probably)frame beforehand.
Edit: I did have caribiniers up there, it was too low for my ridiculously low ceiling, so I just hooked the circle to the eye hook.
I can remove the screen in 2 minutes, as you can see.

HTH

M


----------



## sid369

Thank you for the pics, it is helpful seeing how you did it. So you didn?t have to drill holes on the top of the frame. I was hoping to avoid it. 

And you did say that the screen remains straight and there is no sway, I wonder if I did it with wires if it will remain straight.


----------



## muzz

No, I DID have to drill into the top of the screen, that black you see under those saddles IS the screen.,and those are self tapping screws.
It's not a big deal to ME, it's a great screen for the price, so I personally had no issues with drilling into it, and have been happy ever since.
My particular install only sways if I bump into it walking by, longer chain will sway more, but what's gonna move it much?


----------



## JonnyVee

sid369 said:


> Thank you for the pics, it is helpful seeing how you did it. So you didn?t have to drill holes on the top of the frame. I was hoping to avoid it.
> 
> And you did say that the screen remains straight and there is no sway, I wonder if I did it with wires if it will remain straight.


As mentioned by DC in a previous post, I’d recommend using 2x4 between the joists and hang that way. The frame comes with hangers meant for a wall.


----------



## sid369

So attach two 2x4 vertically, but long should those 2x4?s be? That should the easiest. I could wrap that with some black material or just paint the 2x4 black. What black paint can I use?


----------



## muzz

The length of the 2x4 will be Room dependent, because of height-all rooms are different.
If painting, I'd use Flat Black.


----------



## sid369

I am attaching a pic, to give you guys an idea of the room, the white line is the 2x4 from the ceiling and the rectangle is the frame. Is this how it should be?


----------



## Dominic Chan

sid369 said:


> I am attaching a pic, to give you guys an idea of the room, the white line is the 2x4 from the ceiling and the rectangle is the frame. Is this how it should be?


It's just of matter of personal preference, but I would run the 2x4 all the way to the bottom of the frame (there are two mounting points on the bottom rail as well as on the top rail.


----------



## sid369

Dominic Chan said:


> It's just of matter of personal preference, but I would run the 2x4 all the way to the bottom of the frame (there are two mounting points on the bottom rail as well as on the top rail.





Sorry again for a noob questions, so I buy 2 - 2x4 (8 feet tall), how do I attach it to the joist, which screw will I need? I don't mind running it all the way to the bottom of the frame. Would the eyehook and wire be easier? that would require drilling on the top though, never mind, I feel like I might mess us the frame. How heavy is the screen once installed?


----------



## muzz

I never used the brackets, aren't they for top and bottom of the frame (on the horizontals)?


----------



## Dominic Chan

sid369 said:


> Sorry again for a noob questions, so I buy 2 - 2x4 (8 feet tall), how do I attach it to the joist, which screw will I need? I don't mind running it all the way to the bottom of the frame. Would the eyehook and wire be easier? that would require drilling on the top though, never mind, I feel like I might mess us the frame. How heavy is the screen once installed?


You can attach the 2x4x to the joist with just about any 3" long nails or screws, going through the "flat" side of the 2x4. No modifications required to the frame, as you will be using the existing mounting holes.

Eyehook and wire will require drilling into the frame as muzz explained. The screen can also sway, if that's of any concern.

The screen is not heavy. You can check the weight on the Silver Ticket website.


----------



## Dominic Chan

muzz said:


> I never used the brackets, aren't they for top and bottom of the frame (on the horizontals)?


The brackets are on the verical side. They hook on to screws on the wall.


----------



## Laserfan

sid369 said:


> ...Would the eyehook and wire be easier?...


The easiest thing to try IMO would be simply: Eyehooks into the joists, chain to S-Hooks, bottom S-Hook into the built-in wall hangers.

Of course, with the screen hanging free like this it will move easily; might even do so with air movement from a forced-air heating system. Or if you have super subwoofers! But if you don't like it you've expended trivial energy & $ on the chain etc.

You will find the screen is not heavy and won't require very heavy chain at all.


----------



## sid369

Laserfan said:


> The easiest thing to try IMO would be simply: Eyehooks into the joists, chain to S-Hooks, bottom S-Hook into the built-in wall hangers.
> 
> Of course, with the screen hanging free like this it will move easily; might even do so with air movement from a forced-air heating system. Or if you have super subwoofers! But if you don't like it you've expended trivial energy & $ on the chain etc.
> 
> You will find the screen is not heavy and won't require very heavy chain at all.




I will give it a shot, so I have to pilot drill first correct before the eyehooks go into the joists? I will go and get these materials and see how it comes out. As for the screen, a 135" should be fine for a 20x20 room, with 8 foot ceiling and 15-17 feet seating from the screen. I am one of those who doesn't sit in the front in a movie theatre, I usually sit somewhere in the back, not all the way, but a few rows from the back. I was watching some movies on the HBO app and it was full screen, no black bars at top or bottom, and I felt it was too big for my taste, but going 120" may be too small for my space. What do you guys do for the wall behind the screen, what black material do you use?


----------



## Blue

I'm trying to decide between Silver Ticket and SeymourAV for an acoustically transparent screen in front of my baffle wall. If any of you have seen both, how much better do you think SeymourAV is? Since I've read that Silver Ticket doesn't send samples, I'm unable to test them both in my room.


----------



## Luminated67

Have Silver Ticket stopped doing electric screens?


----------



## rtart

Blue said:


> I'm trying to decide between Silver Ticket and SeymourAV for an acoustically transparent screen in front of my baffle wall. If any of you have seen both, how much better do you think SeymourAV is? Since I've read that Silver Ticket doesn't send samples, I'm unable to test them both in my room.


I wen through the exact same thought process a couple years ago. Because of the cost difference I decided to try the Silver Ticket screen first...less $$$ risked if I didn't like it. I've had it ever since!


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

I thought about SeymourAV for material for DIY, especially when I was considering going 2.35:1 and AT since Silver Ticket's prices jump up noticably for both AT and 2.35:1. If I'd gone the 2.35:1 route, I probably would have done DIY (my last screen was DIY and I was happy with the frame, just not the material). When I decided to scale back my projector upgrade plans and stick with 16:9 non-AT, I went with SilverTicket Grey... I made a modest size increase from 100" to 106" and snagged one from Amazon Warehouse Deals for almost 1/2 price. I've been EXTREMELY happy with it and it was likely a more noticeable upgrade (compared to DIY 2-layer spandex) than the projector itself. I'll recommend Silver Ticket, especially their non-AT, to anyone looking in this price range. For AT, from what I've read, the Seymour UF is likely worth the price and DIY effort.


----------



## nwbearcat21

So I got my screen put together and really am enjoying it. Just a couple of issues though. I got the 106 inch thin bezel screen. Once It was all put together it looked great and no wrinkles, until I put the black velvet frame on. Now two of the corners have a couple of wrinkles. Any ideas for fixing this? Thanks!


----------



## jbnpaul

I am thinking it is time to replace my TV with a projector and screen.

I went ahead and ordered samples from silver ticket. I am trying to decide between the silver or grey. My room have lots of windows and ambient light during daytime. It also has white ceiling and yellow walls. But most of the viewing happens in at night and ambient light would be minimal. I am tending towards alr(silver)

I am yet to decide on the projector.


----------



## Blue

jbnpaul said:


> I am thinking it is time to replace my TV with a projector and screen.
> 
> I went ahead and ordered samples from silver ticket. I am trying to decide between the silver or grey. My room have lots of windows and ambient light during daytime. It also has white ceiling and yellow walls. But most of the viewing happens in at night and ambient light would be minimal. I am tending towards alr(silver)
> 
> I am yet to decide on the projector.


I thought I had read, either in this or another thread, that Silver Ticket doesn't send samples. How were you able to get them?


----------



## jbnpaul

Blue said:


> I thought I had read, either in this or another thread, that Silver Ticket doesn't send samples. How were you able to get them?




I went to their website and searched for the word sample. They offer it as a purchase. I added it to my cart but did not complete the purchase. The next day when I tried to order it was out of stock...but after I sent a note to support they added more stock within minutes. I placed an order promptly. It cost me about 6$including shipping.

I just checked again and it shows up in stock.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

I would only go with Silver if ambient/reflected light is a major issue in your room... but from your description, it sounds like it may be even with lights off (reflected light from light-colored surfaces). You'll probably want to settle on a projector and then do some testing with the samples... brightness can vary wildly across models and have a big impact on which material might work best. Also, do some calculations at the web projector calculator to estimate FL brightness with different projectors, placements, screen sizes, and gains to get a better idea of which material may be best for you. Even if you have to go with a brighter projector, I'd try to avoid the need for the Silver screen material if possible.


----------



## rtart

jbnpaul said:


> I am thinking it is time to replace my TV with a projector and screen.
> 
> I went ahead and ordered samples from silver ticket. I am trying to decide between the silver or grey. My room have lots of windows and ambient light during daytime. It also has white ceiling and yellow walls. But most of the viewing happens in at night and ambient light would be minimal. I am tending towards alr(silver)
> 
> I am yet to decide on the projector.


You may want to consider adding a retractable screen and PJ for nighttime use, and keeping your TV for daytime use. I'm assuming that you already have the TV. PJ's and daylight simply don't mix. There are ways to make it better, but none will give you the PQ of a TV for daytime viewing.


----------



## jbnpaul

Stephen Hopkins said:


> I would only go with Silver if ambient/reflected light is a major issue in your room... but from your description, it sounds like it may be even with lights off (reflected light from light-colored surfaces). You'll probably want to settle on a projector and then do some testing with the samples... brightness can vary wildly across models and have a big impact on which material might work best. Also, do some calculations at the web projector calculator to estimate FL brightness with different projectors, placements, screen sizes, and gains to get a better idea of which material may be best for you. Even if you have to go with a brighter projector, I'd try to avoid the need for the Silver screen material if possible.


Yes, I am worried about is the bright interior of the room, there would be quite a bit of reflections from the wall/celling. Once I get the projector, and the sample materials, I am curious to see how much better the screen materials perform in our environment. Especially what the ALR and grey screens can do with some amount of ambient light/bright walls.
Also occasionally there would be some light in the room, especially when we are watching NFL with friends or when we are sharing the room with kids etc.

A while back we ruled out using a projector due to the ambient lighting situation. But I am amazed by some of the images of the silver ticket screen in this thread with a quite a bit of ambient light including daylight through windows. So we are planning to give it another try.



rtart said:


> You may want to consider adding a retractable screen and PJ for nighttime use, and keeping your TV for daytime use. I'm assuming that you already have the TV. PJ's and daylight simply don't mix. There are ways to make it better, but none will give you the PQ of a TV for daytime viewing.


We are planning to move the TV to our living room. So yes, we will still be using our TV for daytime(or non-critical) viewing. I believe Silver ticket doesn't offer a retractable screen. And I haven't found any comparable ones in this price range. If there are good alternatives, this is something worth considering this will allow us to use the home theater system with both projector and TV.


----------



## jbnpaul

Over the weekend we ceiling mounted our new projector. We also received the silver ticket samples.

So I just stuck them on the wall near the middle of the screen image.










The left one is white.
The middle is silver (alr)
The right is HC Grey.


Below are some images with lights.







Enjoy









Over all we liked the alr screen and HC Grey. With some daylight bleed added in to the mix HC image looks darker vs the alr, probably due to the gain divergence. 

I think the consensus is to go with alr.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

jbnpaul said:


> I think the consensus is to go with alr.


While the ST ALR (Silver) is quite effective in rejecting ambient light, I was bothered by the "sparkles", and the texture that is quite distracting during panning shots.
There were multiple posts in this thread related to this.
The HC Grey seems to be better in this respect, but there have not been many reviews.


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

You might want to consider the regular Grey (non-HC) material... it'll offer a little more gain than the HC while holding black level much better than the white and without the sparkles/texture of the Silver.


----------



## Nexgen76

Right now i have the white screen trying to decide if i should go with the HC Grey with my new Sony ES285 ?


----------



## jbnpaul

Stephen Hopkins said:


> You might want to consider the regular Grey (non-HC) material... it'll offer a little more gain than the HC while holding black level much better than the white and without the sparkles/texture of the Silver.




We also tried regular grey. But it looked pretty much the same as white. So we removed it from from our comparisons altogether.

Our room has bright ceiling walls... Even the blinds are white. I think this gives the alr screen an edge in our scenario.

We preferred HC Grey during night with no lights. But we have no plans to change the wall color or treat the room. If this happens we would definitely go with HC Grey. 

Hence we decided to give alr a try. The samples looked pretty good. But if we really end up hating it i believe we can order just the screen material to replace it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jbnpaul

Nexgen76 said:


> Right now i have the white screen trying to decide if i should go with the HC Grey with my new Sony ES285 ?




I posted some comparison images white vs HC.
HC Grey was definitely the winner. We have quite a bit of reflected light. So blacks in a bright screen appears as Grey on the white sample. HC definitely wins here.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Nexgen76

jbnpaul said:


> I posted some comparison images white vs HC.
> HC Grey was definitely the winner. We have quite a bit of reflected light. So blacks in a bright screen appears as Grey on the white sample. HC definitely wins here.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Just curious which projector you used ?


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

jbnpaul said:


> We also tried regular grey. But it looked pretty much the same as white. So we removed it from from our comparisons altogether.


That surprises me quite a bit... I have an old unused white 1.1 gain drop-down screen that's still installed and when I drop it in front of my Grey Silver Ticket, I see an immediate drop in black level retention. 

That said, it sounds like the ALR might be indeed be the best for your given room conditions so, if you can handle the texture/sparkles, I would probably go that route as well.


----------



## jbnpaul

Nexgen76 said:


> Just curious which projector you used ?


BenQ 2550. 

So this is an entry level projector ( yes it has 4K and colors and resolution. But meh blacks ) on room with lots of wall reflections. So this is probably very different from the cave/velvet wall rooms that are so common around avs.



Stephen Hopkins said:


> That surprises me quite a bit... I have an old unused white 1.1 gain drop-down screen that's still installed and when I drop it in front of my Grey Silver Ticket, I see an immediate drop in black level retention.
> That said, it sounds like the ALR might be indeed be the best for your given room conditions so, if you can handle the texture/sparkles, I would probably go that route as well.


Yes, you are right. Sorry there is definitely a lot of black level improvement between white and Grey. What I really meant is when we tried out white/Grey/HC Grey side by side, and were to measure black levels white and Grey was on 1-3 scale and HC was 10. Silver was 6-7.
So we concluded white and grey is pretty much the same.

I will give it another try this evening and can post what a comparison image.


----------



## Nexgen76

jbnpaul said:


> BenQ 2550.
> 
> So this is an entry level projector ( yes it has 4K and colors and resolution. But meh blacks ) on room with lots of wall reflections. So this is probably very different from the cave/velvet wall rooms that are so common around avs.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, you are right. Sorry there is definitely a lot of black level improvement between white and Grey. What I really meant is when we tried out white/Grey/HC Grey side by side, and were to measure black levels white and Grey was on 1-3 scale and HC was 10. Silver was 6-7.
> So we concluded white and grey is pretty much the same.
> 
> I will give it another try this evening and can post what a comparison image.



Thanks that's close enough for me if you could post some pics of 4K material that would be even better. I guess my next issue will ST sell me just the screen material since i already have own ST screen ?


----------



## Dominic Chan

Nexgen76 said:


> Thanks that's close enough for me if you could post some pics of 4K material that would be even better. I guess my next issue will ST sell me just the screen material since i already have own ST screen ?


ST will sell the finished material by itself.


----------



## Dominic Chan

jbnpaul said:


> What I really meant is when we tried out white/Grey/HC Grey side by side, and were to measure black levels white and Grey was on 1-3 scale and HC was 10. Silver was 6-7.


What pattern did you use when measuring the black level? Was there any ambient light (existing or reflected from the screen)?


----------



## jbnpaul

Dominic Chan said:


> What pattern did you use when measuring the black level? Was there any ambient light (existing or reflected from the screen)?




We did no tests/measurements. Just stuck the samples side by side on the middle of the screen.

Played some content and with our little eyes evaluated what we liked.

We probably have worst case room reflections. And we tested with lights on and with some amount of daylight 

We ranked blacks in this order white/wall/grey/silver/HC.

the numbers I shared were not measured instead this is what it looked like with bare eyes. This is just our opinion about what we liked/how we felt in our room. I just put those fictional numbers to qualify how we felt. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## T-Bone

jbnpaul said:


> Over the weekend we ceiling mounted our new projector. We also received the silver ticket samples.
> 
> So I just stuck them on the wall near the middle of the screen image.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left one is white.
> The middle is silver (alr)
> The right is HC Grey.
> 
> 
> Below are some images with lights.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Over all we liked the alr screen and HC Grey. With some daylight bleed added in to the mix HC image looks darker vs the alr, probably due to the gain divergence.
> 
> I think the consensus is to go with alr.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for sharing. One thing that you should have considered is adjusting the projector for each type of screen sample. And then snapping the pictures. 

For instance, if you ran through some tests patterns, your brightness and contrast color and tint might be different on a white screen versus the silver or gray. Well, brightness and contrast for sure would have been different.

I am assuming that you are using the out-of-the-box projector settings? Anyway, I just realized you have a DLP which will suffer in contrast. And black levels. So in that case going with the screen that boosts contrast would be a benefit to you.

-T


----------



## jbnpaul

T-Bone said:


> Thanks for sharing. One thing that you should have considered is adjusting the projector for each type of screen sample. And then snapping the pictures.
> 
> For instance, if you ran through some tests patterns, your brightness and contrast color and tint might be different on a white screen versus the silver or gray. Well, brightness and contrast for sure would have been different.
> 
> I am assuming that you are using the out-of-the-box projector settings? Anyway, I just realized you have a DLP which will suffer in contrast. And black levels. So in that case going with the screen that boosts contrast would be a benefit to you.
> 
> -T




Yes.we just ran the projector with out of the box settings. I will try to adjust the settings and take another look.

The whole purpose of the test was to see if we can control/limit reflections from the wall.

The biggest problem that we is our bright ceiling and walls, which we would like to keep as is.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Laserfan

jbnpaul said:


> The whole purpose of the test was to see if we can control/limit reflections from the wall.
> 
> The biggest problem that we is our bright ceiling and walls, which we would like to keep as is.


I got the HC Grey for our new 385 and could not be happier. Bought it sight-unseen from ST after having had a bright white screen for many years in a different HT, deciding that I wanted the best blacks I could get. And this even given that our room is light-controlled with deliberately dark and flat walls & ceiling.

Of course, side-by-side with a white screen the HC Grey will look "dirty" I suppose, but stand-alone the whites just look white.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Laserfan said:


> I got the HC Grey for our new 385 and could not be happier. Bought it sight-unseen from ST after having had a bright white screen for many years in a different HT, deciding that I wanted the best blacks I could get. And this even given that our room is light-controlled with deliberately dark and flat walls & ceiling.
> 
> Of course, side-by-side with a white screen the HC Grey will look "dirty" I suppose, but stand-alone the whites just look white.


Any visible sparkles or textures?


----------



## Laserfan

Dominic Chan said:


> Any visible sparkles or textures?


None. I do have the lamp on low fwiw.


----------



## Viche

jbnpaul said:


> Over the weekend we ceiling mounted our new projector. We also received the silver ticket samples.
> 
> So I just stuck them on the wall near the middle of the screen image.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left one is white.
> The middle is silver (alr)
> The right is HC Grey.
> 
> 
> Below are some images with lights.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Over all we liked the alr screen and HC Grey. With some daylight bleed added in to the mix HC image looks darker vs the alr, probably due to the gain divergence.
> 
> I think the consensus is to go with alr.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Is it me, or does the wall actually look better than any of the screen samples?


----------



## Hamburglar

I just got a 150" Silver Ticket screen with the super-thin bezel the other day. I put it together with my father and I believe we did everything right. However, I see a noticeable 2" or so "line" in the very top of the screen, in the very center. This is where the two metal brackets in the back meet. I tried everything to make it go away but it won't. It looks like one of the brackets presses "out" further than the other bracket and it's creating that line, which worries me because that's probably going to leave a permanent mark. Does everyone's have this?


----------



## jbnpaul

Viche said:


> Is it me, or does the wall actually look better than any of the screen samples?




Yes. The wall looks very good. But it has a texture which is pretty distracting. 

We got the screen yesterday... 135' silver. It has some patterns on the screen material. It is visible on the screen and shows up during bright scenes.










I see that there are other people who reported the same issue on this thread.

I will be contacting the seller via Amazon to see if this can be fixed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

jbnpaul said:


> Yes. The wall looks very good. But it has a texture which is pretty distracting.
> 
> We got the screen yesterday... 135' silver. It has some patterns on the screen material. It is visible on the screen and shows up during bright scenes.


Any reason you went with the silver? In your previous post you said


> HC Grey was definitely the winner.


The ST silver is known to have sparkles and distracting texture.


----------



## Laserfan

jbnpaul said:


> Yes. The wall looks very good. But it has a texture which is pretty distracting.
> 
> We got the screen yesterday... 135' silver. It has some patterns on the screen material. It is visible on the screen and shows up during bright scenes.
> 
> I see that there are other people who reported the same issue on this thread.
> 
> I will be contacting the seller via Amazon to see if this can be fixed.


Maybe they will send you a new one, but given that the wrinkles are at the very top (or bottom?) edge, I might decide that they're of no consequence, or maybe very carefully trying a warm iron (with towelling to protect the screen) and seeing if they can be ironed-out.

Just an idea before you go thru any PIA return process.

BTW I had some less-egregious "lumpiness" along the top of my own 125" HC material, which I didn't fiddle with except to make sure the stretching was all even, and over time these lumps have mostly disappeared (though honestly I could not see the lumpiness when projecting moving images, only when examining the screen itself ).


----------



## jbnpaul

Dominic Chan said:


> Any reason you went with the silver? In your previous post you said
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ST silver is known to have sparkles and distracting texture.




We liked HC with no lights.
But with lights (especially with some daylight bleed through blinds) HC was too dark for our room and projector while the alr performed much better.

Also we have bright walls and ceiling. These two factors lead us to ALR.

Now that I have experienced the screen, I am perfectly happy with it except for the design. So given the ALR pros and cons, we are still happy with the choice.

I left the screen overnight...it looks better now. But the pattern is still visible. And Also shows up during a movie. Will inspect it as soon as I am back home after work.

The pattern is at the bottom of the screen. 




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## T-Bone

jbnpaul said:


> Dominic Chan said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any reason you went with the silver? In your previous post you said
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ST silver is known to have sparkles and distracting texture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We liked HC with no lights.
> But with lights (especially with some daylight bleed through blinds) HC was too dark for our room and projector while the alr performed much better.
> 
> Also we have bright walls and ceiling. These two factors lead us to ALR.
> 
> Now that I have experienced the screen, I am perfectly happy with it except for the design. So given the ALR pros and cons, we are still happy with the choice.
> 
> I left the screen overnight...it looks better now. But the pattern is still visible. And Also shows up during a movie. Will inspect it as soon as I am back home after work.
> 
> The pattern is at the bottom of the screen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Is that lumpiness at the top of the screen related to installation error? 

I have the 135 inch white. It was a major pain in the ass to put together... I am anal retentive and was paranoid about not having the material stretched out properly. Sucks to be me, I know 🙂

Just mentioning it.

-T


----------



## Blue

I have two acoustically transparent Seymour samples here already, and I just ordered the Silver Ticket samples too. Stay tuned for a comparison of the Silver Ticket AT versus the Seymour AT screens in a real world environment. I'm very confident, based on the reviews, that I'd be happy with Silver Ticket's regular screens. There isn't much out there reviewing the acoustically transparent version, however. We'll see . . .


----------



## muzz

I'm interested in your impressions, cuz I have the much lower priced ST AT 106" screen.
I'm very satisfied with it, it's pretty solidly built, and it was pretty EZ to put together.


----------



## nissand

How many of you guys got screen material that had dimples in them? I am not sure how to proceed now bc I bought a 150" 16:9 thin bezel screen. I put it together and the screen as vertical bands of dimples every 6" (horizontally). They sent me another roll of material, and that one is even worse with the dimples. So, they advised me to use the blow dryer method. I just spent an hr blow drying the screen, but I still don't see any difference. 

How long does it take for those dimples to disappear? Any idea? I don't think the material could be defective since I now have 2 rolls of it and both have the exact same issue. They sent me an instructional video that explains how the dimpling happens (it made sense), but not sure if I should wait it out or what? My return window w Amazon ends tomorrow. Any suggestions?


----------



## MississippiMan

*Nissand,*

If in doubt, avail yourself of the Return option.

With the Return Window about to expire, make certain that any Return Autorization where they will be picking the Screen up takes place within any set time frame listed.

If not, select "Deliver to Shipper" and Print out a Label, and get it there before the end of the Business Day.

Also, it's always best to check in with A-Prime Customer Service via Phone and let them know what is going to happen. They...and only they can waive a deadline and add a few extra days.

*jbnpaul,*

I've purchased several ST screens (8-9) and even painted upon them, but I've never seen anything remotely as bad as the images above. It almost looks like the Tension Rods were left out....or the material was sized just too big to allow for the degree of stretching needed to pull out the wrinkles / depressions on that particular Frame.

I can only say this. One such ST Gray screen I assembled was a 180"er, and it looked like a tightened Drum Head upon completion. So don't lose the opportunity to get an exchange.


----------



## Blue

Blue said:


> I have two acoustically transparent Seymour samples here already, and I just ordered the Silver Ticket samples too. Stay tuned for a comparison of the Silver Ticket AT versus the Seymour AT screens in a real world environment. I'm very confident, based on the reviews, that I'd be happy with Silver Ticket's regular screens. There isn't much out there reviewing the acoustically transparent version, however. We'll see . . .


We tested this weekend using an old projector and a dvd (yes, not even 1080), with the projector close to the screen for roughly an 80" picture to compensate for the low res. The brightness of the XD was obvious. We were indecisive about the screen weaves. I suspect the low res had a lot to do with the inconclusive results. I just got my new projector, so I'll work to set it up and test it on the screen samples this weekend..


----------



## Laserfan

nissand said:


> How many of you guys got screen material that had dimples in them?...How long does it take for those dimples to disappear? Any idea? I don't think the material could be defective since I now have 2 rolls of it and both have the exact same issue. They sent me an instructional video that explains how the dimpling happens (it made sense), but not sure if I should wait it out or what? My return window w Amazon ends tomorrow. Any suggestions?


Only you can decide if you can live with the screen as-is. I had some minor dimpling in my 125" 'scope HC screen, but they were in a place on the screen and so minor as to not affect PQ afaicouldtell so I was OK with it. And now after a couple of months of hanging on the wall the dimples have moderated so as to be almost invisible in bright light.

When I inspected the HC material of my ST screen I was concerned about its strength i.e. would it survive the framing process. But on balance I learned that while very thin, it is also very strong, and yet as I said somehow it is losing its dimples over time.

Maybe all I've said is irrelevant to you--I can't find what your screen is made of.


----------



## Blue

Assuming my testing of samples this weekend doesn't push me toward a more expensive option, I'm looking at Silver Ticket and am torn between their 142" diagonal and 158" diagonal options for a 2.35:1 acoustically transparent screen. First row eyes are 9.5 feet from the screen (9' 9" when reclined). Second row eyes are about 16 feet back. I will sit in the front row. I typically sit in the front third of a commercial theater. Any thoughts?


----------



## lizrussspike

*Blue*,
what screen id you end up going with for your JVC?


----------



## MarcSparks

FYI I am showing all Silver Ticket screens as 10% off on Amazon this weekend - "Mother's Day promotion". You have to click the promo and the discount is taken at checkout.


----------



## ScottAvery

Blue said:


> Assuming my testing of samples this weekend doesn't push me toward a more expensive option, I'm looking at Silver Ticket and am torn between their 142" diagonal and 158" diagonal options for a 2.35:1 acoustically transparent screen. First row eyes are 9.5 feet from the screen (9' 9" when reclined). Second row eyes are about 16 feet back. I will sit in the front row. I typically sit in the front third of a commercial theater. Any thoughts?


Silver Ticket does not cut on bias to reduce moire with their AT screens, correct? When you tested the screen was their any moire visible on your small sample?


----------



## echo419

I replaced a dalite high power with a 125" matte white screen. Not too happy with how muddy the image is, even at night with no lights on. I do have white ceilings, they light up alot brighter than with the dalite. That seems to wash out the image more.


----------



## Blue

Sorry for the late report, everyone. I still haven't had a chance to re-run my screen sample tests. My first test was with a standard DVD and old projector. I believe the low quality of the source impaired my chance to evaluate the samples. As soon as I set up my new projector, I'll try again and post my impressions.


----------



## nickoakdl

echo419 said:


> I replaced a dalite high power with a 125" matte white screen. Not too happy with how muddy the image is, even at night with no lights on. I do have white ceilings, they light up alot brighter than with the dalite. That seems to wash out the image more.


I currently have a matte white sample taped on my 2.4 gain high power screen and I'm pleasantly surprised with how well it holds up. I have a completely light controlled room with a black ceiling so maybe that makes a big difference.


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## skoolpsyk

wow, what a rollercoaster. I decided to pull the trigger, upgrading from a DIY Do-able 99" screen to a white 120". (BenQW1080ST)

I placed the order through Amazon the day after mother's day and realized there was a discount and it was still available. YES! 

Free shipping meant a week and a half wait. NO! 

Delivery finally comes and I'm refreshing UPS' site. Suddenly it shows "DELIVERED" accepted by "BILLY". NOOOOOO! 

I call UPS and they say they won't do anything, it's Amazon's issue. Amazon makes me wait another day and a half. NO! 

Amazon agrees to refund. I order another another (discount thankfully still available) and Amazon offers to pay the highest shipping (by this time it's the holiday weekend so I decline). YES! 

It arrives and the wife and I install it. YES!

I notice there are a lot of waves, one of the corners is sagging, the center bar slid in with very little tension and most disturbingly there are two vertical lines that are visible when the projector is on and off (SEE ATTACHMENTS) and I can see them during normal content. One of the bars is exactly the same size and shape as the center bar behind it; there are no marks on the back of the screen and the bar never touched the screen during installation. NOOOOOOOO! 

I write the company and explain; they suggest rubbing it with a cloth (no change; I tried a wet cloth also). They said they have never seen this before so they'll send me a new screen. YES! 

I have to wait another five days for delivery. NO! It arrives yesterday and we install it; everything was now perfect: no vertical lines, no waves at all, and the center bar was a bear to get in as it should be! YESSSSSSSSS!

Very happy now, but it was quite a ride. A couple surprises: I thought by the projection calculators that all those foot lamberts I would be losing by going bigger would make the image noticeably dimmer. It didn't. 

I also thought I would need to move the chairs back a bit. But I like them just where they are. I'm finding a good immersive feel the seating distance should be equal the diagonal for 16 x 9. So 120" screen, eyeballs 120" away. Personal preference of course but I like it. Does have it's drawbacks, but I want to get the best out of the best sources. 

Glad some companies out there still care about customer service!


----------



## Blue

Much later than I thought, I finally got around to powering up my new JVC X590R (RS 420) and testing my AT screen samples: Seymour XD, Seymour UF, Silver Ticket, and Dreamweave V6. My impressions:


1. Seymour XD was the brightest, but as expected, the weave was visible from my front row with eyes only 9.5 feet from the screen. Indeed, Seymour recommended the UF, not the XD, from my close seating distance. The XD won't work for me, but if my front row was more than 11 feet back, it would be my first choice. It really popped. 

2. Silver ticket seemed to be the second brightest, but it was just barely brighter than the UF and V6, which were virtually indistinguishable in brightness. My daughter said she could make out the weave when she was looking hard for it, but she didn't notice it without trying to see it. I couldn't see it from 9 feet (leaning forward in my chair). When I walked up to about six feet, I could make out the weave. 

3. V6 was our favorite. We couldn't make out the weave without getting very close to it. The picture just looked the best, subjectively, but I don't really have the expertise to explain why or how. 

4. Seymour UF was just a little off for us. My daughter, with her better eyesight, said she could see the weave from 9.5 feet. I think I saw it the weave in some brighter scenes when looking hard for it, but it's hard to tell if your mind is playing tricks on you when your kid is saying, "I see it; don't you, dad?" However, I believe that she saw it from the seat given that she sees better than me. To control for my less than perfect eyesight, I walked toward the screen and noted when the weave showed up on each sample. As I walked toward the screen, I picked up the weave on the samples in this order: XD's weave showed up from my seat, then UF's weave showed up next as I moved forward to roughly 7 feet, then Silver Ticket's showed up at roughly 6 feet, and then V6's showed up at roughly 5 feet, maybe even less. 

I'm now down to Silver Ticket and V6. The advantage of Silver Ticket is I won't have to build a frame. The advantage of V6 is that it was our favorite, although the gap was very small and the differences were noticeable only when we were looking for them. I might just buy a Silver Ticket, see how I like it, and replace the material with V6 if I'm not satisfied or if I just get an upgrade bug in a year or two. 

What is everyone's opinion of the Silver Ticket frames? Are they solid and worth the $600 I would pay for a Silver Ticket set up even if it's likely that I'll replace the screen material down the road?


----------



## SteveCallas

Its a pretty solid frame. Did you put a black backer behind the materials? The Dreamweave has one built in. If you do, to my eye, the Silver Ticket is noticably brighter than the Dreamwave with a white image.


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## Blue

SteveCallas said:


> Its a pretty solid frame. Did you put a black backer behind the materials? The Dreamweave has one built in. If you do, to my eye, the Silver Ticket is noticably brighter than the Dreamwave with a white image.


I taped them to a black wall, which was the best I could do with what I had on hand. You make a good point. With its integrated black backing that the other samples lacked, the V6 was probably at an advantage.

I also thought the Silver Ticket AT screen was brighter than the V6. Not a lot brighter the way the Seymour XD was, but brighter. 

Are you happy with your screen? I've read some complaints about moire with Silver Ticket's AT screens, but I'm not really even sure what that is. If it occurred in my testing, I didn't notice it, but it's really hard to evaluate the picture on those little samples. 

Even though my first row is only 9.5 feet back from screen to eyes, I'm leaning toward getting the 158" diagonal 2.35:1 Silver Ticket AT screen. I might not try to use all 158" in scope, but I would definitely use its maximum capability for 16:9 content. I had a 16:9 movie projected on the wall in a size that was the same as what you get inside the 158" scope screen. My daughter said it was good but could be a little bigger. She and I like to sit in the front 3rd of a commercial movie theater, so I wasn't surprised.


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## SteveCallas

9.5 feet at 158 inch is HUGE. 

Im very happy with the Silver Ticket, no moire or any other issues. I tested my screen samples with solid colors and black gradients. The only one i liked better was Screen Innovations Maestro, but in the same size, it was over $3k


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## Blue

SteveCallas said:


> 9.5 feet at 158 inch is HUGE.
> 
> Im very happy with the Silver Ticket, no moire or any other issues. I tested my screen samples with solid colors and black gradients. The only one i liked better was Screen Innovations Maestro, but in the same size, it was over $3k


Yeah, 158" diagonal is pretty big for scope movies from 9.5 feet (eyes, by the way, not the front of the chair, so it's definitely close). However, when we watch 16:9 content on the screen, it would be 126" diagonal. My daughter, brother and I found that size to be about right. My wife and other daughter agreed, although they agreed based on how it looked from the second row, where they prefer to sit. I can still mask the sides a little and not use quite all of the width for scope movies. 

If I build a screen, the perfect shape for me would be 138" wide and 62" tall, which is roughly 2.2:1. That would give me a 150" scope screen and a 126" 16:9 screen.

Thanks for your help.


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## JaremyP

Hello. I'm debating screens and looking at the SilverTicket 1.5 gain silver material. I would need it more for the gain than the actual ALR features. The ST web site has some FAQs that talk about using the silver material and somewhat warn people off it.

https://silver-ticket-products.mysh...ambient-light-rejecting-material-right-for-me

"Since it has such a high gain (1.5 gain), our factory adds texture to it so that it does not hot-spot as much as other high gain materials, but this does result in a slightly grainy picture that is not usually suitable for viewing in light-controlled environments. Many of our customers have bought the silver material thinking they would like the higher gain for their light-controlled room only to find the texturing to be distracting. The color and contrast on the silver screen is excellent and it does an excellent job at rejecting ambient light."

This might describe me. I'm curious if anyone has the silver ALR material and can comment if this is an accurate assessment? Is the texturing distracting or make for grainy images? How bad is the viewing cone?


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## jbnpaul

I have a silver screen. See couple of sample images. The first one is youtube and the other 4k hdr.

I use the alr screen since my room has bright (white) interior and reflects lots of light. I have blackout curtains and atleast one of the pictures were taken during day. I keep the lights off and the curtains closed. But you can see the reflections on the wall and ceiling.

The screen material has a texture... it does cause some level of screen door effect... but the contrast is great and the images are bright.

If you are worried you can order sample materials and try it out.

We sit on a couch 12-13 feet from the screen. And I normally sit on one of the sides(since the middle seat doesn't recline) and there is no visible difference from these seats. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Blue

I just ordered the STR-235158-WAB, which is the acoustically transparent 158" diagonal screen. I believe my ideal size would have been 150" diagonal, but Silver Ticket doesn't have anything between 142 and 158 in scope shape. I can always mask it a little if it seems too big. Hopefully I'll have time to set it up this weekend. As noted in my prior post above, when we tested samples, we liked V6 the best and ST the second best from my close seating distance. (We liked Seymour XD the best from farther back, but that doesn't work with my seating arrangement). Thus, if we wind up disappointed with Silver Ticket, I'll keep the frame and replace the screen material with V6 someday. Wish me luck. I'll report back after we get everything installed.


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## drunkpenguin

Thinking about upgrading to an AT screen finally. Do woven AT screens bleed light through them? One of my design ideas calls for a false wall that is open on both sides. Will the light illuminate through to the wall and speakers behind it if its not closed off?


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## ereed

drunkpenguin said:


> Thinking about upgrading to an AT screen finally. Do woven AT screens bleed light through them? One of my design ideas calls for a false wall that is open on both sides. Will the light illuminate through to the wall and speakers behind it if its not closed off?


This is exactly why AT screens have black material on the wall such as linacoustic or black paint so you don't see reflections through the screen. So if its not treated just put black velvet or paint it flat black. The velvet will absorb the light and not reflect back is what you would want.


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## drunkpenguin

Thanks @ereed

Im learning a lot today. Are these silver tickets considered pretty good transparent screens? I've avoided this for years due to fear of the image not looking as good and deteriorating the sound, but I think I really wanna take the plunge into it. I'm considering building something like this picture because I don't really have the room for a wall to wall false wall due to a door being in the way. I'm wondering if this would introduce any unforeseen problems with it being open on the sides.

I'll have to measure tonight, but I think with the new wall I'll be 10-12 feet from the screen. Will that be close enough to see the weave?


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## ereed

drunkpenguin said:


> Thanks @ereed
> 
> Im learning a lot today. Are these silver tickets considered pretty good transparent screens? I've avoided this for years due to fear of the image not looking as good and deteriorating the sound, but I think I really wanna take the plunge into it. I'm considering building something like this picture because I don't really have the room for a wall to wall false wall due to a door being in the way. I'm wondering if this would introduce any unforeseen problems with it being open on the sides.
> 
> I'll have to measure tonight, but I think with the new wall I'll be 10-12 feet from the screen. Will that be close enough to see the weave?


I don't have AT screen. But all the ones with AT screen have it blacked out behind it for a reason, to control light bleed and so you don't see light reflect back to the screen. Look at all the builds on AVS and you will see all the false walls are black, even the framing where the screen rest on are also black!


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## drunkpenguin

Ok thanks for the info! I ordered their sample kit so I can take a look at it and compare the image against my current screen.


----------



## JaremyP

Curious if anyone has tried the Silver 1.5 gain material lately? 

I read through this entire thread and going back to 2015/2016 there have been various reports of visible artifacts and texture in the Silver 1.5. There was also reference a bit ago to ST possibly revisiting the material to improve it.

I haven't seen a first-hand account posted in a little while though, so I'm curious, if you bought the Silver 1.5 in the last several months, how do you feel about it? Do you see artifacts? Texture?


----------



## Dominic Chan

JaremyP said:


> Curious if anyone has tried the Silver 1.5 gain material lately?
> 
> I read through this entire thread and going back to 2015/2016 there have been various reports of visible artifacts and texture in the Silver 1.5. There was also reference a bit ago to ST possibly revisiting the material to improve it.
> 
> I haven't seen a first-hand account posted in a little while though, so I'm curious, if you bought the Silver 1.5 in the last several months, how do you feel about it? Do you see artifacts? Texture?


I contacted them a few months ago, and was told the silver is the same as what it always has been. They introduced the High Contrast grey which eliminates most of the issues, but at a lower gain.


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## MississippiMan

The Silver 1.5 shows mucho artifacts, and so being is not for those of sharp vision. It is better at making the image "PoP" than creating a clear, "invisible screen surface" image.




Dominic Chan said:


> I contacted them a few months ago, and was told the silver is the same as what it always has been. They introduced the High Contrast grey which eliminates most of the issues, but at a lower gain.



Most Screen Mfg are quickly coming to the realization that higher Lumen 4K PJs are becoming the norm...not the exception, and as such they can avoid the pitfalls inherent in higher gain screens.


----------



## Brunoistrippin

Hey guys, till the end of this year I think I'm getting the viewsonic px 747 which is tons of bright which leaves less contrast (I read that's above average but blacks aren't true blacks) and since it's for the living room, I know I'm gonna watch something here and there with some light coming in on the side.

First question is for anyone from Europe around here. Has anyone tried to import a silver ticket screen? If so, how is customs with it? Expensive? 

Also, I read that the 1.3 gain screen helps reducing ambient light effect, but since it already has 3500lm and from what I read, contrast is a little bit compromised, it is better getting the silver ticket high contrast, that don't have 1.3 gain? Please correct me if I am wrong in this one. 

Enviado do meu Redmi Note 4 através do Tapatalk


----------



## JT37

Laserfan said:


> I got the HC Grey for our new 385 and could not be happier. Bought it sight-unseen from ST after having had a bright white screen for many years in a different HT, deciding that I wanted the best blacks I could get. And this even given that our room is light-controlled with deliberately dark and flat walls & ceiling.
> 
> Of course, side-by-side with a white screen the HC Grey will look "dirty" I suppose, but stand-alone the whites just look white.


Laserfan,

Did you look at any of the higher cost screens like SI Slate, Stewart Firehawk, Grayhawk, or Cima Tiburon when you selected Silver Ticket?

I just installed my new RS540 in a media room with white walls/ceilings, and looking to settle on a screen to help with reflections and minimal overhead lighting.


----------



## Laserfan

JT37 said:


> Laserfan,
> 
> Did you look at any of the higher cost screens...


 No, I did not. I had read reviews of the ST and figured that for the cost, even if I later determined I did not like the HC material that I could always buy different material for it. Heck I could buy three or four more screen materials and still have paid less than what I originally thought I'd have to pay for a large 'scope screen.


This is the only place in my HT setup that I "cut corners" vs. just getting my first choice elements (Sony 4K, Denon flagship, RBH signature speakers).


----------



## drunkpenguin

If everything behind the screen is black including the speakers, will I still need to use the black sheet on the screen?


----------



## ereed

drunkpenguin said:


> If everything behind the screen is black including the speakers, will I still need to use the black sheet on the screen?


I think black sheet backing is for non AT screens. Sounds like your screen is AT so it would just be screen itself that you need without the black backing.


----------



## drunkpenguin

It says it comes with black out cloth to put behind the screen.


----------



## ereed

drunkpenguin said:


> It says it comes with black out cloth to put behind the screen.


If the black out cloth is AT then you should be fine. Just remember everything has to be AT between the speaker and the screen for sound to pass through. I'm not aware of the black cloth since I do not own AT screen. You probably don't need it if your screen wall is already black.


----------



## WormInfested

getting a ST grey 16:9 screen material to replace my white one i currently have and just realized from reading this thread that there is an hc grey from ST. i'll eventually be hooking up my Benq 2150st. i use a ht2050 in my other room with a flexi grey screen from carl's and am hoping the ST matte grey is similar. would I benefit more from the HC Grey from Silver Ticket or would it be too dark? it'll be in a living room with not so controlled lighting during the day but more controlled at night.


----------



## JMCX

Can anyone comment on the typical customer service response time for Silver Ticket? I've submitted their online form and emailed support directly concerning issues with a new screen and haven't heard anything back in a few days. 

Thanks in advance!


----------



## drunkpenguin

JMCX said:


> Can anyone comment on the typical customer service response time for Silver Ticket? I've submitted their online form and emailed support directly concerning issues with a new screen and haven't heard anything back in a few days.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


My only contact to this point was an email asking an installation question. They responded the same day if I recall.

My Screen arrived last night and is hanging on the wall temporary style. I think this is going to work out just fine for me! I only had a chance to test for a few minutes last night but the image looked great and the system sounded amazing thru the screen. I still need to build my panels to surround the screen on my AT wall before I can actually watch an entire movie, but I think this is going to work out just fine for me!

The only negative would be the instructions that came with it. They are complete joke! I didn't realize until I was done they had better instructions online. The 2 support bars were a pain because I had them in the wrong groves at first which made them impossible to slide into place. One I beat them into submission I realized the top and bottom rails were severely arched so I had to take them out and put them in correctly.


----------



## drunkpenguin

Finally got around to hanging the screen. I will say, you do get what you pay for. The design is not really that good compared to my old Carada. Since theres only 2 hooks on top, (carada had a bar that covered most of the top) its a bit tricky to get it level. I realized the hooks need to be closer to the edges as the screen is not perfectly square. Maybe I put it together wrong. When I first hung it I was almost half an inch off. I also really don't like the bottom hooks at all. It needs to be redesigned so that the bottom hooks pull the screen instead of pushing it up. This would have pulled the screen nice and tight against the top brackets, but instead it kinda hangs loose and might be a source of rattling in the future.

I still think its a great deal for the price, but future models should be thought out a bit better. But once up its never coming back down so not the end of the world.

Time to build my fabric panels to finish the job!


----------



## tonybradley

*Smell*

Would anyone like to share how long it takes for the insanely horrible plastic smell of the screen to dissipate? I am currently assembling my 120" White Silver Ticket Screen. I have a very sensitive nose to smells and this thing is killing me. I'm sure I'll hear from others that it was slight or barely noticeable, but for those with sensitive nostrils like myself who thought it was strong out of the box, can you let me know how long it takes before that smell is gone? Normally, when I purchase anything plastic, etc., it goes outside for a while in the fresh air. I don't want to do that with a screen and chance bugs and animals getting to it. 

I'm stopping the assembly for now, and leaving it on the floor as/is to see if that smell mitigates some by tomorrow. I would hate to take it all apart and try to fit it back in the box to return it, but may have to if this is a longer term smell.


----------



## tonybradley

*Junk*

Wow, I must have the worst luck in the world or those that love this screen love tons of wrinkles and looseness. This is junk. The smell is now the least of my concern. Not sure if I should contact Silver Ticket or box it up and send back to Amazon and go with Carls Blackout and make my own 20" screen. When you spend less money for a well reviewed product, wanting the biggest bang for the buck, you expect it to be at least decent.

It's like the height of the screen was about an inch too short. There was NO pull to it at all. There was on the sides, as I had to pull it very tight. But not on the top and bottom. So it's all loose. I thought the Vertical Bar would push the top and bottom out enough to pull the Vinyl screen tight. Nope.

Edit....when I attached the files, it flipped them around. So the looseness in the first two pics are at the top I believe. You can see if you look well. The ripples may fall out over time as I've read other say. It's the looseness at the bottom right and left corners of the screen that are horrible.


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## tonybradley

Here are two of the back showing the bottom left and right corners very loose (or top and bottom...whichever way you look at it)


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## ereed

It seems like those with silver ticket screen issues are hit and miss. I've had mine for over 2 years and never had issues. I guess I'm lucky! But if you guys have issues, at least send it back and get another and you may end up with a perfect screen. That's the good thing with amazon's return policy.


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## Dominic Chan

ereed said:


> It seems like those with silver ticket screen issues are hit and miss. I've had mine for over 2 years and never had issues. I guess I'm lucky! But if you guys have issues, at least send it back and get another and you may end up with a perfect screen. That's the good thing with amazon's return policy.


I would send it back to Silver Ticket. There’s a better chance they can doublecheck the size before shipping.


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## drunkpenguin

@tonybradley

Your screen looks completely different from mine. Mine had springs that attached the material to the frame. Maybe the AT screens have a different design? Mine seemed a bit wrinkled the first day. When I first turned it on I could see a wave on the image when the camera would pan, but this went away after 24 hours.

As far as the smell I havent noticed anything so I cant help you there. I would reach out to Silver Ticket, I've read on some other posts around here that they are pretty responsive and well do things like send new screen material to you. But Amazon rocks if you need to return it. I'd be pretty bummed too.


----------



## tonybradley

drunkpenguin said:


> @tonybradley
> 
> Your screen looks completely different from mine. Mine had springs that attached the material to the frame. Maybe the AT screens have a different design? Mine seemed a bit wrinkled the first day. When I first turned it on I could see a wave on the image when the camera would pan, but this went away after 24 hours.
> 
> As far as the smell I havent noticed anything so I cant help you there. I would reach out to Silver Ticket, I've read on some other posts around here that they are pretty responsive and well do things like send new screen material to you. But Amazon rocks if you need to return it. I'd be pretty bummed too.


I read a lot of folks have some wrinkles that will fall out over time. My issue is with the slack between the top and bottom frame. It's not tight at all. Not sure if the frame is too small for the screen or vice versa. But yes, I'll be taking it all apart and trying to remember how it goes back into the boxes and return to Amazon. Amazon Prime is great with returns, especially if defective. I'll try another and see. Reading over reviews on Amazon, it does seem hit and miss with these screens. some absolutely love the installation, etc. Others think they are junk.

I do not like the hanging method though. Only because there is too much (for me anyway) to go wrong to get level by having FOUR brackets. I'm a little nervous about that even if my next Silver Ticket goes together correctly. My DIY frame with BO cloth I used for years (only 100") used a French Cleat method that made hanging a SNAP and was able to slide left and right to center.


----------



## drunkpenguin

I didnt like the hanging method either. Took a couple holes to get it right. Put your screws in the middle and theres a small bit of room to adjust up and down. Good luck on the replacement!


----------



## tonybradley

drunkpenguin said:


> I didnt like the hanging method either. Took a couple holes to get it right. Put your screws in the middle and theres a small bit of room to adjust up and down. Good luck on the replacement!


Thanks. Thinking I may try the Delux 120". Around 20% cheaper than ST. I like how the frame is assembled with springs opposed to plastic tabs. I also like the mounting method with two brackets at top you mount to wall and hang screen on. Good review on it via Youtube, but doesn't talk quality of Projected Image.


----------



## drunkpenguin

Finally got the screen up and built the surrounding panels. I will say this, the screen looks fantastic! When you compare different materials as I did it can seem like maybe you are getting a lesser screen, but once a projected image is up and the samples are gone it really looks great! I've been in there playing around a bit today and I don't feel like I'm missing out on anything by having a transparent screen. I don't see the so called moire effect at all. I'm about 11 feet away. 

So far, this was a good purchase and it didnt break the bank!


----------



## Justin_Rogers

So I have had my silverticket for about 3 months.. Didn't have an issue with wrinkles or slack... Love it! 

To get it level I just hung some trim on the wall made that level then hung the screen to that. You will have to be sure to also put some trim on the bottom as well, so the screen hangs strait.. Picture included from when I took down the screen to paint the back wall.. 










Eventually I completely framed the back wall though. painted the wall and trim black and added lifx strips to the outer edge of the trim..


----------



## drunkpenguin

Heres what I did with my screen. I had to bump it out from the wall to get the speakers behind it. I may do something with the top 12" to dress it up some. Was thinking about maybe wrapping with short theater curtains or something.


----------



## Justin_Rogers

drunkpenguin said:


> Heres what I did with my screen. I had to bump it out from the wall to get the speakers behind it. I may do something with the top 12" to dress it up some. Was thinking about maybe wrapping with short theater curtains or something.


Looks great man!

I bet your screen looked different then most with springs, was because you got the acoustically transparent one.


----------



## drunkpenguin

I wonder why ST has 2 different designs tho? Seems like one or the other should work with either screen really.


----------



## Justin_Rogers

drunkpenguin said:


> I wonder why ST has 2 different designs tho? Seems like one or the other should work with either screen really.


My guess would be that the AT screen is going to be made of a thinner material, which would effect how you may want stretch the canvas.


----------



## tonybradley

drunkpenguin said:


> I wonder why ST has 2 different designs tho? Seems like one or the other should work with either screen really.


I got my replacement ST screen from Amazon today. I'll finish putting it together in the morning and hoping this one allows the screen to be taut. I watched a youtube video of a guy who recommended installing only the top two screws at first and hang to make sure it's level before you worry about the bottom two screws. I liked that idea.

Anyone know if just the top two can support the weight and not even add screws for the bottom brackets? I just know me and measuring and I can feel I'm never going to get the screws placed correcty for the bottom two.


----------



## Dominic Chan

tonybradley said:


> Anyone know if just the top two can support the weight and not even add screws for the bottom brackets? I just know me and measuring and I can feel I'm never going to get the screws placed correcty for the bottom two.


The top screws can support the weight with no problems (assuming they are secured to studs). As a matter of fact, even if you add the two bottom screws those may not carry any weight.


----------



## tonybradley

*Is this Correct?*

I just laid out the screen over the frame. As you can see from the pictures, the sides are short which should give me stretch to be taut. However, from Top to Bottom, when I lay out the screen, it already goes almost from Tab to Tab before I start stretching. This doesn't give me a warm and fuzzy feeling given my last screen was so loose top to bottom that it caused waves.

Is it supposed to be like this, or should the screen be considerably shorter top to bottom like the sides so it can be stretched?

Forgot to attach the pictures


----------



## tonybradley

Well,

Screen Number two and same problem. There is NO tension at all top to bottom. So when I get to the corners, I have all this bunched up excess screen. Last screen I tried, I had it in two areas. This time it's one. Unacceptable.

Secondly, the top right corner doesn't come together flush. I'm so happy so many have great success with these screens, but this is number two for me with unacceptable problems. I keep hearing it's a great screen for the price. For what I've been getting, it's about 3x too high. I'll be sending this back and going with the cheaper Delux that uses the springs instead of these static tabs. I still say quality control at the china plant is horrible. I think many of the screens are not within their tolerance and either too big or too small for the frame.


----------



## drunkpenguin

That sucks Tony. I don't blame you at all, I think you've been more than patient with ST. I'd go elsewhere as well. ST obviously has some serious quality control problems. If you don't mind, post your results with your new screen and let us know what you think. If fact, it could be helpful to others if you end up with both screens at the same time to compare the 2.


----------



## tonybradley

drunkpenguin said:


> That sucks Tony. I don't blame you at all, I think you've been more than patient with ST. I'd go elsewhere as well. ST obviously has some serious quality control problems. If you don't mind, post your results with your new screen and let us know what you think. If fact, it could be helpful to others if you end up with both screens at the same time to compare the 2.


I have also been talking with another AVS User on the BenQ HT2050 owners thread as I really would like to use my new PJ, but can't get a screen. He asked if I was sure I was snapping it together properly. Honestly, I don't know and I welcomed any feedback. The instruction manual isn't very clear to me and all the videos I've seen, they do it differently. Manual says to start in middle all way around then work your way outward toward each corner. I guess that's where I'm uncertain. After you snap the middle (or springs) on all four sides, do I stay on one side and snap right all the way to corner, then left of center all the way to corner, then move to the opposite side...........or do I do the middle on all four sides, then do something like: Left of center on top, left of center on bottom, left of center on Right, left of center on left side....then alternate to the right of center all the way around? I did the latter trying to keep it consistent.

Edit: But even if I were able to get it tight all the way around, I have the issue with the gap in the top right corner of the frame which won't work. I am going to remove the screen and switch the side pieces and install to see if that fixes any gaps on the front of the frame with the felt. If not, that will be a bummer and not work even if I find out I'm not snapping the screen together correctly


----------



## Justin_Rogers

It is strange to have the same issue twice.. Its been a while but I am pretty sure I started snapping the screen on top and bottom from the middle out.. Did you install the tension bar in the center?


----------



## drunkpenguin

Well I finally went from playing around to watching a full 2 hour movie with this screen. We watched Jumaji Welcome to the jungle. Great movie BTW! I had zero issues with the AT screen. Moira, whatever that is it's not on my screen. It looked fantastic! AT screens are a bit darker but turning up the contrast takes care of it. Anyone wanting an affordable AT screen this one is a deal. 

If your screen fits the frame of course.


----------



## tonybradley

Justin_Rogers said:


> It is strange to have the same issue twice.. Its been a while but I am pretty sure I started snapping the screen on top and bottom from the middle out.. Did you install the tension bar in the center?


I found a second video on ST's website on right way to snap on the screen and wrong way. The way they did it is the way I am doing it. I start in the center two on each side. Then I go right of center alternating sides around the screen until I get to the Right corner on each side. Then I start on the left side of center and go all the way around.

I did switch the side frame pieces and the Gap I had on the front side (top right corner) is not better. NOt perfect, but it's fine. I can see a little bit of aluminum in the top tip corner, but that's fine. Before, it was the entire corner. So, now that I switched the Sides, my Wave/looseness is in the bottom left corner opposed to top right where it was before. This screen is much much better than the first screen, but still have this one spot. It's not huge, but still in bottom left corner. If I tug slightly on the rod, it pulls it right out. I just don't have enough tension there. I made sure my screen was centered inside the Frame before I started stretching as well so one side wasn't stretched more than the other. The thing that I don't understand is that the top and bottom don't fit inside the screen when laying non tensioned. It actually sits on the frame on both sides almost over top of the snaps. The side to side are a few inches short, allowing for the stretch. maybe normal?

Do most on here have a perfectly flat and taut screen or live with a little ripples in the corners?


----------



## tonybradley

drunkpenguin said:


> Well I finally went from playing around to watching a full 2 hour movie with this screen. We watched Jumaji Welcome to the jungle. Great movie BTW! I had zero issues with the AT screen. Moira, whatever that is it's not on my screen. It looked fantastic! AT screens are a bit darker but turning up the contrast takes care of it. Anyone wanting an affordable AT screen this one is a deal.
> 
> If your screen fits the frame of course.


That's great. I still haven't watched the latest Jumanji. If I ever get a screen on my wall, I'll watch it


----------



## drunkpenguin

Tony, have you talked to ST yet? I was watching a video of your screen and I think the frame is identical to mine, I just didnt have the the slide on plug things that you have. But it looks like the springs could still be applied to your screen and frame. I wonder if ST would have any thoughts on that?


----------



## tonybradley

drunkpenguin said:


> Tony, have you talked to ST yet? I was watching a video of your screen and I think the frame is identical to mine, I just didnt have the the slide on plug things that you have. But it looks like the springs could still be applied to your screen and frame. I wonder if ST would have any thoughts on that?


Thank you for that. I will contact them as I think the springs would really help. Especially a couple in the one corner I have the ripple. I took some think cardboard from a cereal box and folded it and shoved it behind a peg (making it bigger) so the Rod pulled a bit tighter. It helped minimally. I did call Amazon as the thought of taking it all back apart and boxing it back up was just too much after doing that once already. They discounted it quite a bit for me. So as long as the screen doesn't develop anymore ripples, I guess I can live with it. That's assuming the image looks good once I hang it. I will contact ST tomorrow to see if I can use the springs and if they can send me some.


----------



## tonybradley

I watched several scenes from movies and it looked great. I was able to get rid of much of the ripple by putting more thin pieces of cardboard behind the snap lug, so that the rod was pushed out a little more, putting more tension in that corner. Still a slight ripple, but it's better. Since most of the movies I watch are 2.35:1, it's out of the viewing area. I tested some 16:9 Disney and it wasn't noticeable during the movie at all.


----------



## tonybradley

My brackets don't slide easily even when the screen is off the wall. I have to jiggle it and slide and the same time and it still catches quite a bit. So once the screen was up, I tried sliding the screen a little to the left and it wouldn't budge at all. Maybe tapping the side with a rubber mallet would get it to slide. Is everyone else able to slide their screens left and right once it's hung? Maybe I should have coated it with Vaseline before I installed them on the frame 

My DIY Screen (only 100", so didn't want to use it with my new PJ) used a French Cleat to hang and was an absolute breeze to slide left and right to center.


----------



## ereed

tonybradley said:


> My brackets don't slide easily even when the screen is off the wall. I have to jiggle it and slide and the same time and it still catches quite a bit. So once the screen was up, I tried sliding the screen a little to the left and it wouldn't budge at all. Maybe tapping the side with a rubber mallet would get it to slide. Is everyone else able to slide their screens left and right once it's hung? Maybe I should have coated it with Vaseline before I installed them on the frame
> 
> My DIY Screen (only 100", so didn't want to use it with my new PJ) used a French Cleat to hang and was an absolute breeze to slide left and right to center.


Yes they do slide...but you would need to lift up the frame then slide it at the same time so the brackets can slide easier.


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## drunkpenguin

If you loosen up the bottom brackets it should slide real easy.


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## tonybradley

drunkpenguin said:


> If you loosen up the bottom brackets it should slide real easy.


I didn't even add screws for the bottom. That seemed too much trouble to me. LOL. I guess I wasn't lifting up on it as I was sliding. I'd still like to see ST go with something like a French Cleat method to make installations a little easier and sliding left to right very easy. I think I have it good enough now, so will be staying where it is.


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## drunkpenguin

Some times I wonder why we do all this. This hobby is more frustrating at times then rewarding lol.


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## tonybradley

drunkpenguin said:


> Some times I wonder why we do all this. This hobby is more frustrating at times then rewarding lol.


That's funny, because I felt that way when I first built my room and set it up, then added some acoustic treatments, etc. It was fun, yet frustrating. I think I spent more time planning it on a budget, trying to get best bang for the buck than actually enjoying my Theater. So here I am again. I really like my new BenQ HT2050a PJ. However, with the 1.1Gain ST Screen and the brighter PJ than I previously owned, the light reflection off the ceiling is bad. So now I need to figure out how to add some Velvet to my suspended ceiling to remove that light. I bought a new receiver with the XT32 Audyssey as my previous receiver was a nice Denon, but no HDMI. After running my calibration, everything sounds much more full than before, but now it's "tinny" sounding. I read on the Audyssey forum that others receive that and there are some things you can do in the receiver. So, more reading and trial and error. Again, wondering when I'll get to enjoying my updated theater.  But, all this is part of the fun.


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## drunkpenguin

I've had a lot of discussions around AVS lately about my choice to convert from a 2.35 screen to a 16x9 screen. I also recently went dual subs and people seem to think without spending a couple weekends running REW I will never get it sounding right. 

But here's the thing that maybe only people with really old theaters can understand. At some point playing around with everything just gets old and all you really wanna do is enjoy the thing.


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## tonybradley

drunkpenguin said:


> I've had a lot of discussions around AVS lately about my choice to convert from a 2.35 screen to a 16x9 screen. I also recently went dual subs and people seem to think without spending a couple weekends running REW I will never get it sounding right.
> 
> But here's the thing that maybe only people with really old theaters can understand. At some point playing around with everything just gets old and all you really wanna do is enjoy the thing.


Amen. I thought about a better PJ and an anamorphic lens with a 2.35:1 screen, etc. I then realized that I'm the only one in the house that cares about any of that. So I just want something that looks and sounds good, but doesn't have to be perfect. I recall I attempted REW many, many years ago. With kids, work and their activities, I just felt I was spending too much time dealing with all that so I quit. I ended up using an SPL meter with a spreadsheet and frequency download on AVS with the calibration fixes for LFE and the Radioshack SPL meter. I set the sub in 4 places I could live with in my room and graphed each location. I chose the place with the flattest curve even though I knew it wasn't exact. So now, my screen is so much bigger, my SVS will cover the bottom of the screen. So a new location it goes. I'll run Audyssey and be done with it and enjoy movies.


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## drunkpenguin

I've always thought pictures of a screen in action never really told the whole story, but here I am doing it. I was watching planet earth with my daughter last night while we tested out Netflix streaming for the first time and was very impressed by the pic quality of this AT screen even with low res media like streaming. Bluray looks even better of course, but here's a sample in case anyone comes looking for information on this screen.


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## tonybradley

drunkpenguin said:


> I've always thought pictures of a screen in action never really told the whole story, but here I am doing it. I was watching planet earth with my daughter last night while we tested out Netflix streaming for the first time and was very impressed by the pic quality of this AT screen even with low res media like streaming. Bluray looks even better of course, but here's a sample in case anyone comes looking for information on this screen.


That looks great. I'm sure I've already read this, so forgive me, but what Projector are you using?


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## drunkpenguin

A very old one. JVC RS1.


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## ANSEK

drunkpenguin said:


> I've always thought pictures of a screen in action never really told the whole story, but here I am doing it. I was watching planet earth with my daughter last night while we tested out Netflix streaming for the first time and was very impressed by the pic quality of this AT screen even with low res media like streaming. Bluray looks even better of course, but here's a sample in case anyone comes looking for information on this screen.


I agree. I'm blown away by the image quality coming from the screen. Way better than others I've seen. I got the high contrast grey and it works well. I am noticing what looks like a hotspot in the top center of the image. Its like back in college when the professor would use a projector on a whiteboard. Is that normal?


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## lizrussspike

drunkpenguin said:


> I've always thought pictures of a screen in action never really told the whole story, but here I am doing it. I was watching planet earth with my daughter last night while we tested out Netflix streaming for the first time and was very impressed by the pic quality of this AT screen even with low res media like streaming. Bluray looks even better of course, but here's a sample in case anyone comes looking for information on this screen.


 well said @drunkpenguin, Here is a shot of Trinity with my RS420 and a silver ticket 115" 2.35:1 screen


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## Dominic Chan

lizrussspike said:


> well said @drunkpenguin, Here is a shot of Trinity with my RS420 and a silver ticket 115" 2.35:1 screen


What screen material is this?


----------



## lizrussspike

Dominic Chan said:


> What screen material is this?


 Let me get back to you, it is not AT screen though. Top of my head I think Cinematte white or grey. Will look when I get home. Is there something you see in this material Dominic Chan?


----------



## Dominic Chan

lizrussspike said:


> Let me get back to you, it is not AT screen though. Top of my head I think Cinematte white or grey. Will look when I get home. Is there something you see in this material Dominic Chan?


I’m actually trying to get some feedback on their high contrast grey material. I already have the matte white.


----------



## lizrussspike

Here is another shot that show a better shot, at least I think. My phone is not the greatest.


----------



## Laserfan

Dominic Chan said:


> I’m actually trying to get some feedback on their high contrast grey material. I already have the matte white.


 I have only spent a few minutes (well, maybe an hour or two) with my own ST-HC screen and find it to be sensational, though at the same time I was looking for the first time at not only the screen but also my new Sony VPL-385ES 4K projector. Could not be happier.



I used to have a HC4900 Mits projector and Gatorfoam (matte white) screen and thought those were good for watching movies, which is all I do. So while this new setup makes me weak in the knees I'm not obsessed like some here. In any case I'm no longer in awe of anyone else's PQ.


----------



## ANSEK

Dominic Chan said:


> I’m actually trying to get some feedback on their high contrast grey material. I already have the matte white.


I have the high contrast grey. I'm using it with an Optoma UHD60. The screen looks like a huge rubber shower mat. I am impressed with how good the image looks on this screen. I was concerned with how white would look on the grey and it looks great! It does a good job rejecting ambient light but will get washed out like any other screen when the light level gets high enough. 

I was torn between the silver and the high contract grey. I'm happy with the grey. My three complaints are the cheap appearance of the material, there were two sticky spot on the screen out of the box, and there are vertical lines on the left side of the screen from how it was rolled up in the box but they should go away as it stretches out, I've had it for three days.


----------



## Kothoga

Looking for advice on screen material; I'm in a fairly light controlled room but not perfect. Then again, we only view films in the evening. Looking at a 138" 2.35, white, gray, and high contrast. Projector is still TBD as I'm waiting for CEDIA but let's just say a JVC X790 or Epson 5040ub.


----------



## Laserfan

Kothoga said:


> Looking for advice on screen material; I'm in a fairly light controlled room but not perfect. Then again, we only view films in the evening. Looking at a 138" 2.35, white, gray, and high contrast. Projector is still TBD as I'm waiting for CEDIA but let's just say a JVC X790 or Epson 5040ub.


 I would say that plain white is probably the least desirable of the three, though if it is your very first front projection setup you may be very happy with it as I was myself for many years happy with a simple white gatorfoam board as a screen. Further it seems to me that if you like movies with dark scenes in them that grey is good and hc is better. I have HC myself and don't notice any negative impact to "whites" or scene brightness.


I like to remind people that "you can't project black" thus if you like blacks then you have a darker screen material and minimize lighting & light reflections in your room.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Laserfan said:


> I like to remind people that "you can't project black" thus if you like blacks then you have a darker screen material and minimize lighting & light reflections in your room.


That is true, but 138” is a big screen and most projectors will not be able to provide sufficient luminance for HDR (if that’s a requirement).

Also, reflection is an issue mostly for high contrast scenes, as the reflections from the bright portions will wash out the dark portions. Dark scenes are not an issue for screens if there are no ambient lights, as there’s nothing to reflect. It’s the projector itself that needs to provide good blacks.


----------



## Kothoga

Laserfan said:


> I would say that plain white is probably the least desirable of the three, though if it is your very first front projection setup you may be very happy with it as I was myself for many years happy with a simple white gatorfoam board as a screen. Further it seems to me that if you like movies with dark scenes in them that grey is good and hc is better. I have HC myself and don't notice any negative impact to "whites" or scene brightness.
> 
> 
> I like to remind people that "you can't project black" thus if you like blacks then you have a darker screen material and minimize lighting & light reflections in your room.


Well good, I ordered the HC this morning on a whim.


----------



## muzz

I have had grey screens and white screens...
I personally prefer white screens with no lights, controlled reflections (Black surroundings, I use fabric on ceiling and walls), and a JVC.
Works well for me, but everyone is different.


Dominic Chan said:


> That is true, but 138” is a big screen and most projectors will not be able to provide sufficient luminance for HDR (if that’s a requirement).
> 
> Also, reflection is an issue mostly for high contrast scenes, as the reflections from the bright portions will wash out the dark portions. Dark scenes are not an issue for screens if there are no ambient lights, as there’s nothing to reflect. It’s the projector itself that needs to provide good blacks.


----------



## Laserfan

muzz said:


> I have had grey screens and white screens...
> 
> 
> ...but everyone is different.


 This is right of course. I would say to Kothoga (who does not afaict have a pj yet) to keep in mind what DC said about that very large screen: you do need a brighter projector. Further, make sure you have the ability to throw to that large image given your own distance and the PJ's lens capabilities.


But I would also say that one reason I was glad to find the Silver Ticket screens, and their exceedingly low cost, was that I figured if I did NOT like the screen material, or if I changed my preference over time, I felt comforted in the belief that I could order just the screen material from ST and then swap it out, and not have spent an arm and a leg. I wonder if anyone here has done that--just bought screen material from ST to fit the ST frame.


----------



## rossandwendy

*Silver Ticket screen defect - anyone else have this?*

I purchased a Silver Ticket 128" 2.35:1 matte white screen earlier this year, and the material shows a straight line all the way across, about 1" high, where the reflectivity is different - it shows as a white band during a movie (pic attached - you can't tell from this image but the band actually goes all the way across the full 117.5" width of the screen - as you walk side to side the rest of the line is revealed - all seats see some of the defect). Even with the projector off you can examine and still see this line where the coating is defective. 

Anyone else ever see this?

I contacted Silver Ticket via Amazon and they seemed puzzled as if they've never heard of the issue, and they sent me out a new roll of material. Fast forward a few months and after finally completing a drawn-out move to another house I set up my HT and put the replacement material on, and the exact same defect is on the new material, in the exact same location. Looks to me like their entire batch is defective at least in this particular size and aspect ratio. 

It's too late to get Amazon to step in so I will contact Silver Ticket support and see if they are going to stand behind their product. This is the 3rd screen I have purchased from them and I want to keep supporting them, but at this point I am leaning toward a different brand. I'll happily send this material back to them if they want to examine it, but I don't want a replacement since this pattern indicates the whole batch in 2.35:1 128" may be defective. 

EDIT: 2nd pic attached shows what the band looks like with no projection - the reflectivity defect then shows as darker.

Ross


----------



## muzz

My 106" AT Screen has none of that, have them replace it again.


rossandwendy said:


> I purchased a Silver Ticket 128" 2.35:1 matte white screen earlier this year, and the material shows a straight line all the way across, about 1" high, where the reflectivity is different - it shows as a white band during a movie (pic attached - you can't tell from this image but the band actually goes all the way across the full 117.5" width of the screen - as you walk side to side the rest of the line is revealed - all seats see some of the defect). Even with the projector off you can examine and still see this line where the coating is defective.
> 
> Anyone else ever see this?
> 
> I contacted Silver Ticket via Amazon and they seemed puzzled as if they've never heard of the issue, and they sent me out a new roll of material. Fast forward a few months and after finally completing a drawn-out move to another house I set up my HT and put the replacement material on, and the exact same defect is on the new material, in the exact same location. Looks to me like their entire batch is defective at least in this particular size and aspect ratio.
> 
> It's too late to get Amazon to step in so I will contact Silver Ticket support and see if they are going to stand behind their product. This is the 3rd screen I have purchased from them and I want to keep supporting them, but at this point I am leaning toward a different brand. I'll happily send this material back to them if they want to examine it, but I don't want a replacement since this pattern indicates the whole batch in 2.35:1 128" may be defective.
> 
> EDIT: 2nd pic attached shows what the band looks like with no projection - the reflectivity defect then shows as darker.
> 
> Ross


----------



## muzz

Laserfan said:


> This is right of course. I would say to Kothoga (who does not afaict have a pj yet) to keep in mind what DC said about that very large screen: you do need a brighter projector. Further, make sure you have the ability to throw to that large image given your own distance and the PJ's lens capabilities.
> 
> 
> But I would also say that one reason I was glad to find the Silver Ticket screens, and their exceedingly low cost, was that I figured if I did NOT like the screen material, or if I changed my preference over time, I felt comforted in the belief that I could order just the screen material from ST and then swap it out, and not have spent an arm and a leg. I wonder if anyone here has done that--just bought screen material from ST to fit the ST frame.


Goes without saying, large screens are harder to get a bright image, and white screens rule there.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Laserfan said:


> I wonder if anyone here has done that--just bought screen material from ST to fit the ST frame.


When I contacted ST, they offered to sell the screen material for significantly less than the web price (for customers who already have their frame).

I have replaced the ST standard 1.1 gain matte white with their 1.3 gain matte white. The latter works really well, but unfortunately was (and still is?) available only as raw material, without the pockets.


----------



## Laserfan

Dominic Chan said:


> ...I have replaced the ST standard 1.1 gain matte white with their 1.3 gain matte white. The latter works really well, but unfortunately was (and still is?) available only as raw material, without the pockets.


 How did you make the raw material work/fit then?

It seems to me that they ought to be able to have (or order from China presumably) an extra finished screen in whatever size/material you want? And for folks who got "replacement screens" did you get replacement MATERIAL or did you get entire packages, and have to dismantle and send the whole (defective) shebang back including frame?


----------



## Dominic Chan

Laserfan said:


> How did you make the raw material work/fit then?
> 
> It seems to me that they ought to be able to have (or order from China presumably) an extra finished screen in whatever size/material you want? And for folks who got "replacement screens" did you get replacement MATERIAL or did you get entire packages, and have to dismantle and send the whole (defective) shebang back including frame?


They do have finished (ready to hang) replacement materials. The 1.3 gain is the only one available in raw. I made the pocket by using vinyl cement.


----------



## rtart

So, after almost three years I took down my Silverticket 120" AT screen to find that almost a foot of the rod pocket binding at one corner had come loose. No clue how long it had been loose, since I haven't been able to see it since it went up. I remember being concerned initially that this was not sewn in place...just glued or heat bonded. Maybe I was right to be concerned....

I reached out the ST and was told that the one year warranty had expired. (Hard to find out the actual warranty period if you look on AZ, where I bought it though.) Suggested that I sew it up myself by hand, then offered me a 1/2 price replacement cloth.

I was an early adopter of this screen, and a pretty big fan. I posted in this thread to that effect, too. Now? Not so much. Here's the post: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-16.html#post38293833

IMO, this is clearly a manufacturing defect. I don't think most people would expect the seams to open up......ever. 

So, here is the info, for anyone interested. I'm not trashing Silverticket or their products...just sharing what happened.


----------



## jer181

Hello,

I recently had a 135" AT thin bezel 4K screen come in from Silver ticket. When I installed it was extremely wrinkled and sent pictures to ST. It turns out they cut it too big and are now offering a replacement of a "new" material that is a spandex/cotton blend. I was told it is whiter but has the same gain and view angles with a tighter weaver.

I asked for specs but wasn't able to get anything back. Should I be worried about this new material not being as good as the PVC?


----------



## Viche

You guys see the announcement about the new 4K ISF Certified Screens from Monoprice at Cedi? Prices look decent. They even have a motorized in-ceiling version. Too bad they are all 16:9. Would be interesting to see how they compare to Silver Ticket’s screens. Hope someone does a comparison. Maybe wirecutter?

https://www.monoprice.com/pages/4k_projection_screens


----------



## Jameshtx

Viche said:


> You guys see the announcement about the new 4K ISF Certified Screens from Monoprice at Cedi? Prices look decent. They even have a motorized in-ceiling version. Too bad they are all 16:9. Would be interesting to see how they compare to Silver Ticket’s screens. Hope someone does a comparison. Maybe wirecutter?
> 
> https://www.monoprice.com/pages/4k_projection_screens


Has anyone chimed in on this? Sounds like this screen would help better my picture quality versus my silver ticket


----------



## tonybradley

rtart said:


> So, after almost three years I took down my Silverticket 120" AT screen to find that almost a foot of the rod pocket binding at one corner had come loose. No clue how long it had been loose, since I haven't been able to see it since it went up. I remember being concerned initially that this was not sewn in place...just glued or heat bonded. Maybe I was right to be concerned....
> 
> I reached out the ST and was told that the one year warranty had expired. (Hard to find out the actual warranty period if you look on AZ, where I bought it though.) Suggested that I sew it up myself by hand, then offered me a 1/2 price replacement cloth.
> 
> I was an early adopter of this screen, and a pretty big fan. I posted in this thread to that effect, too. Now? Not so much. Here's the post: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-16.html#post38293833
> 
> IMO, this is clearly a manufacturing defect. I don't think most people would expect the seams to open up......ever.
> 
> So, here is the info, for anyone interested. I'm not trashing Silverticket or their products...just sharing what happened.





jer181 said:


> Hello,
> 
> I recently had a 135" AT thin bezel 4K screen come in from Silver ticket. When I installed it was extremely wrinkled and sent pictures to ST. It turns out they cut it too big and are now offering a replacement of a "new" material that is a spandex/cotton blend. I was told it is whiter but has the same gain and view angles with a tighter weaver.
> 
> I asked for specs but wasn't able to get anything back. Should I be worried about this new material not being as good as the PVC?


I think Silver Ticket has a horrible to no Quality Control. Possibly why they can offer their product at a much cheaper price, they save on not paying for any Quality Control. The first non AT screen I ordered (can be found on this thread), the screen was too big. Had no tightness at all. Had severe wrinkles in it. Not normal wrinkles, but due to being so loose. I got a replacement from Amazon and it was better, but still not the best. Bottom left corner was very loose. I had to take a folded up piece of cardboard behind the pin so the stretch was a little more. I can still see it when it's hanging, but since MOST of what I watch is 2.35:1, it's not in the viewing area. I called Amazon and complained as it was Screen #2 with issues and I did NOT want to take it all apart, and have to try to fit it back in the box for a return. I ended up getting 40% off. So, at a 40% discount, I'd recommend Silver Ticket. At the current price, I would not recommend this company at all. I know others (most) have had great luck. But I'm not a huge fan due to lack of Quality Control. With that said, I do enjoy the image on the screen.


----------



## Azekecse

Viche said:


> You guys see the announcement about the new 4K ISF Certified Screens from Monoprice at Cedi? Prices look decent. They even have a motorized in-ceiling version. Too bad they are all 16:9. Would be interesting to see how they compare to Silver Ticket’s screens. Hope someone does a comparison. Maybe wirecutter?
> 
> https://www.monoprice.com/pages/4k_projection_screens


Interesting indeed...

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## ScottAvery

Viche said:


> You guys see the announcement about the new 4K ISF Certified Screens from Monoprice at Cedi? Prices look decent. They even have a motorized in-ceiling version. Too bad they are all 16:9. Would be interesting to see how they compare to Silver Ticket’s screens. Hope someone does a comparison. Maybe wirecutter?
> 
> https://www.monoprice.com/pages/4k_projection_screens


I thought perfectly smooth screens were avoided for a reason: hot spotting, glare, etc. If it was a good idea, the major manufacturers would be selling it already.


----------



## Ftoast

ScottAvery said:


> I thought perfectly smooth screens were avoided for a reason: hot spotting, glare, etc. If it was a good idea, the major manufacturers would be selling it already.


Perfectly smooth screens/surfaces usually only suffer from hotspotting or glare when that screen has a somewhat glossy surface. 
A smooth screen with a matte top-surface shouldn't hotspot unless it has a boatload of very directional added gain (along with a projector throw-ratio that isn't long enough to make that directional gain uniform enough to the viewer/s).

I think slightly textured and somewhat glossy material was mostly common among cheaper manufacturers because it was both easier to produce or acquire and those materials made it a little easier to hide small imperfections at first glance (minimizing returns due to small scratches or manufacturing flaws that might be easier to spot on a smooth surface...Even though a smooth+matte surface ironically hides imperfections better when the projector is actually on).


----------



## Viche

Ftoast said:


> Perfectly smooth screens/surfaces usually only suffer from hotspotting or glare when that screen has a somewhat glossy surface.
> A smooth screen with a matte top-surface shouldn't hotspot unless it has a boatload of very directional added gain (along with a projector throw-ratio that isn't long enough to make that directional gain uniform enough to the viewer/s).
> 
> I think slightly textured and somewhat glossy material was mostly common among cheaper manufacturers because it was both easier to produce or acquire and those materials made it a little easier to hide small imperfections at first glance (minimizing returns due to small scratches or manufacturing flaws that might be easier to spot on a smooth surface...Even though a smooth+matte surface ironically hides imperfections better when the projector is actually on).


Why not just use a piece of gatorboard or ultraboard that is totally smooth, matte, white, and cheap? Can’t remember which is which, but I started a thread a while back on it. I’ll try to find it.


----------



## Laserfan

Viche said:


> Why not just use a piece of gatorboard or ultraboard that is totally smooth, matte, white, and cheap? Can’t remember which is which, but I started a thread a while back on it. I’ll try to find it.


 Dunno about ultraboard, but I had a gatorfoam screen (smooth matte white) for many years along with my first front projector, and it was fine. But I had to find a supplier for the 10' material, have them cut it to 2.35:1 AR, and then get it home safely (used a utility trailer and a protective "sandwich"). Then I got some felt to apply as a border. Probably cost about $200 not counting the wear & tear on my psyche re: getting it home safe. Over the years I poked a hole or two into it, and patched but never painted it.


Now I have the STR-235125-HC which was $440 delivered and love it. I would never do the Gatorfoam thing again (it was originally intended as a temporary thing but I used it for 10 years) nor would I recommend it to anybody; if you can afford a HT with front projector, you can afford a decent screen as well.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Laserfan said:


> Now I have the STR-235125-HC which was $440 delivered and love it.


What do you think is the gain of the HC materials? Is it brighter than a sheet of white paper placed at the centre of the screen?


----------



## Laserfan

Dominic Chan said:


> What do you think is the gain of the HC materials? Is it brighter than a sheet of white paper placed at the centre of the screen?


Dunno DC but I think the gain of the HC material is


----------



## Dominic Chan

Laserfan said:


> Dunno DC but I think the gain of the HC material is


----------



## Laserfan

Dominic Chan said:


> I think so too, from their website. Just to get some feedback from users what it looks like in actual use.


 I'm not able to do any live testing (not at HT location) but subjectively speaking the HC does what I want, which has been to do a better job with dark movie scenes than my gatorfoam was able to.


It looks "dark grey" hanging on the wall, but once the show starts it just looks like you'd expect, and has "pop" to spare. My PJ is the Sony VPL-385ES in low lamp mode, and I have very good light control in my HT.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Laserfan said:


> I'm not able to do any live testing (not at HT location) but subjectively speaking the HC does what I want, which has been to do a better job with dark movie scenes than my gatorfoam was able to.
> 
> 
> It looks "dark grey" hanging on the wall, but once the show starts it just looks like you'd expect, and has "pop" to spare. My PJ is the Sony VPL-385ES in low lamp mode, and I have very good light control in my HT.


Thanks. Most of the ambient light gets rejected, that’s why it looks dark grey. The question is whether it’s bright under projector light, which can be a concern with HDR.


----------



## ANSEK

Dominic Chan said:


> What do you think is the gain of the HC materials? Is it brighter than a sheet of white paper placed at the centre of the screen?


I can do this experiment when I get to the house. I'm curious too. In absence of that experiment, I can say it looks fantastic! I noticed on white screens things can look a little white washed but not on the HC. I wonder what the silver looks like? My wife is a professional photographer and she vouches for the screens ability to produce bright whites and "TV Blacks". It doesn't produce "blacker than black" but it looks really good. All my HDR stuff has knocked my socks off. FWIW, I have a Kuro in the bedroom which I use as reference.


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

ANSEK said:


> I can do this experiment when I get to the house. I'm curious too. In absence of that experiment, I can say it looks fantastic! I noticed on white screens things can look a little white washed but not on the HC. I wonder what the silver looks like? My wife is a professional photographer and she vouches for the screens ability to produce bright whites and "TV Blacks". It doesn't produce "blacker than black" but it looks really good. All my HDR stuff has knocked my socks off. FWIW, I have a Kuro in the bedroom which I use as reference.


Just makes sure you don't confuse "whiter" for "brighter" when doing this experiment... it's hard for such an experiment like this to be quantitative since the source is going to be calibrated for one material or the other, and a shift in color temp could easily be perceived as brighter when it's not necessarily the case once properly calibrated to the material.


----------



## Dominic Chan

ANSEK said:


> I can do this experiment when I get to the house. I'm curious too. In absence of that experiment, I can say it looks fantastic! I noticed on white screens things can look a little white washed but not on the HC. I wonder what the silver looks like? My wife is a professional photographer and she vouches for the screens ability to produce bright whites and "TV Blacks". It doesn't produce "blacker than black" but it looks really good. All my HDR stuff has knocked my socks off. FWIW, I have a Kuro in the bedroom which I use as reference.


Thanks. When you do, it would be interesting to put one sheet of paper near the centre, and another near a corner. Brightness variation may not be apparent when viewing normal material, but will be quite apparent with this test.

Forget about the silver. It’s really bad.


----------



## ANSEK

Dominic Chan said:


> Thanks. When you do, it would be interesting to put one sheet of paper near the centre, and another near a corner. Brightness variation may not be apparent when viewing normal material, but will be quite apparent with this test.
> 
> 
> 
> Forget about the silver. It’s really bad.




Sorry for the delay. I had a west coast client distract me. 

I had my daughter help me with these using my iPhone X. I was surprised by the difference in brightness! I used a sheet of regular laser printer paper that is matte finish. The iPhone doesn’t consistently capture the difference in brightness. I would say the paper was 15% to 20% brighter. Also the blacks get washed out with the paper. 

I’m going to redo this after dinner with my wife’s help. She is a professional photographer and will use her Canon 5D Mark iii so you can see exactly what I see. 

If the paper is anything close to a white screen, it very hard to product blacks on a white screen.


----------



## Dominic Chan

ANSEK said:


> Sorry for the delay. I had a west coast client distract me.
> 
> I had my daughter help me with these using my iPhone X. I was surprised by the difference in brightness! I used a sheet of regular laser printer paper that is matte finish. The iPhone doesn’t consistently capture the difference in brightness. I would say the paper was 15% to 20% brighter. Also the blacks get washed out with the paper.
> 
> I’m going to redo this after dinner with my wife’s help. She is a professional photographer and will use her Canon 5D Mark iii so you can see exactly what I see.


Thank you. I don’t think the paper can emulate a white screen very well, when it comes to black. However, it does look like Silver Ticket’s rated gain of 0.9 is about right. The Elite Screen Cinegrey 3D looks similar to this but they claim it’s 1.3 gain!

If you’re taking pictures using a DSLR, please make sure it’s in Manual exposure mode, and the camera be located close to the viewing position. Also, as I mentioned previously, it would be very interesting to have some comparison shots near the corners of the screen, where I expect a much bigger difference.

EDIT: It looks like the last two of you posted pictures are from the corner of the screen.


----------



## ANSEK

Dominic Chan said:


> Thank you. I don’t think the paper can emulate a white screen very well, when it comes to black. However, it does look like Silver Ticket’s rated gain of 0.9 is about right. The Elite Screen Cinegrey 3D looks similar to this but they claim it’s 1.3 gain!
> 
> If you’re taking pictures using a DSLR, please make sure it’s in Manual exposure mode, and the camera be located close to the viewing position. Also, as I mentioned previously, it would be very interesting to have some comparison shots near the corners of the screen, where I expect a much bigger difference.
> 
> EDIT: It looks like the last two of you posted pictures are from the corner of the screen.


We tried the DSLR this morning and we got weird color rainbows. My wife is researching why that is occuring, she only uses Canon L glass so it is not a cheap glass issue. I think it could be polarization but we are researching. The issue only occured when shooting the screen and not other objects in my theater. More to come. 

BTW, the picture of the crocodile and the penguin body are 99% accurate to what I was seeing with the naked eye. With the toucan picture, the white letters were significantly brighter on the paper than they appear in the image. The body and neck of the toucan is pretty accurate (95% of what I saw).


----------



## Dominic Chan

ANSEK said:


> We tried the DSLR this morning and we got weird color rainbows. My wife is researching why that is occuring, she only uses Canon L glass so it is not a cheap glass issue. I think it could be polarization but we are researching. The issue only occured when shooting the screen and not other objects in my theater. More to come.


The camera is capturing the DLP rainbow effect. Try using a slow shutter speed, something like 1/30s or even 1/15s.


----------



## Viche

ANSEK said:


> Sorry for the delay. I had a west coast client distract me.
> 
> I had my daughter help me with these using my iPhone X. I was surprised by the difference in brightness! I used a sheet of regular laser printer paper that is matte finish. The iPhone doesn’t consistently capture the difference in brightness. I would say the paper was 15% to 20% brighter. Also the blacks get washed out with the paper.
> 
> I’m going to redo this after dinner with my wife’s help. She is a professional photographer and will use her Canon 5D Mark iii so you can see exactly what I see.
> 
> If the paper is anything close to a white screen, it very hard to product blacks on a white screen.


Would be interesting to see shots with and without the paper. I’m wondering if you are losing detail in the shadows on things like the birds feathers with the gray screen. Also it seems like there’s some fall off in brightness toward the edges with the penguin scene as I imagine that snow should be brilliant white even in the
corners (2nd to last picture).


----------



## ANSEK

Dominic Chan said:


> The camera is capturing the DLP rainbow effect. Try using a slow shutter speed, something like 1/30s or even 1/15s.


Makes complete sense, I should of thought of that. I'll get this done sunday. The wife is out all day today.


----------



## ANSEK

Viche said:


> Would be interesting to see shots with and without the paper. I’m wondering if you are losing detail in the shadows on things like the birds feathers with the gray screen. Also it seems like there’s some fall off in brightness toward the edges with the penguin scene as I imagine that snow should be brilliant white even in the
> corners (2nd to last picture).


I can do that. I would say there is a loss of detail with the paper because of wash out. The only loss is in brightness.

There does seem to be a slightly higher loss of brightness in the corners, maybe 2% higher.


----------



## Dominic Chan

ANSEK said:


> I can do that. I would say there is a loss of detail with the paper because of wash out. The only loss is in brightness.
> 
> There does seem to be a slightly higher loss of brightness in the corners, maybe 2% higher.


The corner loss is likely signicantly more. Judging from the snow on the third shot, the light drop off is more than a factor of two.

Were all the shots taken from the main viewing position (including height-wise)? It seems the previous shots may have been taken with the camera right in front of the paper as the paper was moved around. That would not provide a meaningful asssessment.


----------



## ANSEK

Dominic Chan said:


> I expect the corner loss to be signicantly more. Were all the shots taken from the main viewing position (including height-wise)? It seems the previous shots may have been taken with the camera right in front of the paper, as it’s moved around. That would not provide a meaningful asssessment.


They are from about 5' to 6' in front of the view position I can do them from the viewing position.


----------



## Dominic Chan

ANSEK said:


> They are from about 5' to 6' in front of the view position I can do them from the viewing position.


The viewing angle (and hence the light falloff) for the corner shots varies significantly when the viewing distance changes. Even for the centre shots, taking the pictures at 5-6’ will likely result in a different vertical viewing angle compared with seating at the main viewing position.


----------



## tonybradley

*Screen Masking*

Has anyone attempted Horizontal Boards wrapped in Black Velvet for Masking on these Silver Ticket Screens?

I thought about using 3/4" Foam Insulation Boards from Lowes/HD, wrapped in Velvet. I'm not sure the best way to Cut them for smooth edges. I'll also need to butt two pieces together for the 120" screen since they boards only come in 8' lengths. I'm thinking of using Wooden Dowels to somehow join the boards. Not sure about the mounting method yet. Thinking of gluing magnets to the back of the Foam. Maybe Cutting some boards just a bit thicker than the depth of screen to the wall with a piece of metal on it, wrapped in Velvet. Then allowing the Foam foam to connect to the Boards next to the screen with the magnets.

Anyone try anything like this or can offer some guidance?


----------



## rtart

tonybradley said:


> Has anyone attempted Horizontal Boards wrapped in Black Velvet for Masking on these Silver Ticket Screens?
> 
> I thought about using 3/4" Foam Insulation Boards from Lowes/HD, wrapped in Velvet. I'm not sure the best way to Cut them for smooth edges. I'll also need to butt two pieces together for the 120" screen since they boards only come in 8' lengths. I'm thinking of using Wooden Dowels to somehow join the boards. Not sure about the mounting method yet. Thinking of gluing magnets to the back of the Foam. Maybe Cutting some boards just a bit thicker than the depth of screen to the wall with a piece of metal on it, wrapped in Velvet. Then allowing the Foam foam to connect to the Boards next to the screen with the magnets.
> 
> Anyone try anything like this or can offer some guidance?


Hi Tony,

I did something like this years ago with a CRT PJ when screens were transitioning from 4:3 to 16:9. I needed to mask the top and bottom of a 4:3 screen to 'show' the 16:9 area. I used a drapery motor to run it and a set of pulleys to raise a velvet-wrapped foam panel on the bottom. To make the longer width (120"), I found some aluminum U-channel that fit nicely over a 1/2" foam insulation board, and it was strong enough, while being light, too. A little duct tape to hold it in place, and then velvet wrap. For the top mask, I used a round aluminum pipe placed in a sleeve sewn into the top velvet fabric panel. Gravity helped it go down, and the drapery motor would easily pull it up. Took some trial and error and engineering to make it all work, but it would mask to 16:9 and 2.35:1, or any other constant-width ratio. Drapery motor (Somfy?) had built-in programmable stops, and an IR sensor, so my Philips Pronto would run it all easily. 

Later on, as most TV became HD/16:9, it became kind of redundant and didn't get moved very often. I later went to an AT screen, with a fixed 16:9 ratio, so I retired the system. In my 'bat cave' HT, the few 2.35:1 ratio movies show some empty screen, but my JVC is dark enough that its really not noticeable. 

So, your idea CAN be done, but it's not easy, and I'm not sure that with today's content that I would recommend the effort. However, it was really cool!


----------



## tonybradley

rtart said:


> Hi Tony,
> 
> I did something like this years ago with a CRT PJ when screens were transitioning from 4:3 to 16:9. I needed to mask the top and bottom of a 4:3 screen to 'show' the 16:9 area. I used a drapery motor to run it and a set of pulleys to raise a velvet-wrapped foam panel on the bottom. To make the longer width (120"), I found some aluminum U-channel that fit nicely over a 1/2" foam insulation board, and it was strong enough, while being light, too. A little duct tape to hold it in place, and then velvet wrap. For the top mask, I used a round aluminum pipe placed in a sleeve sewn into the top velvet fabric panel. Gravity helped it go down, and the drapery motor would easily pull it up. Took some trial and error and engineering to make it all work, but it would mask to 16:9 and 2.35:1, or any other constant-width ratio. Drapery motor (Somfy?) had built-in programmable stops, and an IR sensor, so my Philips Pronto would run it all easily.
> 
> Later on, as most TV became HD/16:9, it became kind of redundant and didn't get moved very often. I later went to an AT screen, with a fixed 16:9 ratio, so I retired the system. In my 'bat cave' HT, the few 2.35:1 ratio movies show some empty screen, but my JVC is dark enough that its really not noticeable.
> 
> So, your idea CAN be done, but it's not easy, and I'm not sure that with today's content that I would recommend the effort. However, it was really cool!


Hmmmm...aluminum U-Channel. I hadn't thought about that. I like that idea. good way to make a crisp line too. I'll have to see if my Lowes or HD have any U-Channel that will fit well over 1/2 or 3/4" foam boards.

99% of what I watch in my HT are Blu Ray movies. A huge portion of those are either 2.35:1, 2.39:1 or 2.40:1 (unless in real applications, they are all basically the same) and I have the black bars. Some of the older Disney/Pixar Movies were 1.78:1 I think. I recently added some velvet panels to the side walls about 6' out from front wall and covered the tops and sides of my LCR speakers in Velvet. Since I did that, the Black Bars on the screen are now MUCH darker than before, but can still be seen during a movie. It's definitely something I want to do. Oh, and I have a budget friendly PJ, so the bars aren't as dark as something like a JVC PJ

I found a person on a Klipsch Forum while googling Masking who used 3/4" foam board, and drilled holes into the edges with Dowels to connect the two pieces for a longer than 8' length. He then recessed some Rare Earth Magnets into the foam on each end. I'm not sure what he connected it to, but I'm thinking maybe wood blocks just thicker than depth of screen with a piece of metal attached to it and wrapped in Velvet and then attach magnetically. But if too strong, I'm afraid when I remove for a different formatted movie, I may break it. 

What did you use to cut your Foam?


----------



## Viche

ANSEK said:


> I can do that. I would say there is a loss of detail with the paper because of wash out. The only loss is in brightness.
> 
> There does seem to be a slightly higher loss of brightness in the corners, maybe 2% higher.


Where’s the follow-up?


----------



## Viche

tonybradley said:


> Hmmmm...aluminum U-Channel. I hadn't thought about that. I like that idea. good way to make a crisp line too. I'll have to see if my Lowes or HD have any U-Channel that will fit well over 1/2 or 3/4" foam boards.
> 
> 99% of what I watch in my HT are Blu Ray movies. A huge portion of those are either 2.35:1, 2.39:1 or 2.40:1 (unless in real applications, they are all basically the same) and I have the black bars. Some of the older Disney/Pixar Movies were 1.78:1 I think. I recently added some velvet panels to the side walls about 6' out from front wall and covered the tops and sides of my LCR speakers in Velvet. Since I did that, the Black Bars on the screen are now MUCH darker than before, but can still be seen during a movie. It's definitely something I want to do. Oh, and I have a budget friendly PJ, so the bars aren't as dark as something like a JVC PJ
> 
> I found a person on a Klipsch Forum while googling Masking who used 3/4" foam board, and drilled holes into the edges with Dowels to connect the two pieces for a longer than 8' length. He then recessed some Rare Earth Magnets into the foam on each end. I'm not sure what he connected it to, but I'm thinking maybe wood blocks just thicker than depth of screen with a piece of metal attached to it and wrapped in Velvet and then attach magnetically. But if too strong, I'm afraid when I remove for a different formatted movie, I may break it.
> 
> What did you use to cut your Foam?


You’d have to sink the rare earth magnets in on the outward facing side to prevent them from ripping off when detaching, no? I think it’s ultraboars that has a sturdy plastic outer shell that might make the boards less likely to break. I’d like to do this as well.

Is this the thread you were talking about?
https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/151611-inexpensive-diy-masking-panels/

Found this in my notes as well:
http://projectiondream.com/en/protostar-dc-fix-triple-black-velvet-devore/


----------



## tonybradley

Viche said:


> You’d have to sink the rare earth magnets in on the outward facing side to prevent them from ripping off when detaching, no? I think it’s ultraboars that has a sturdy plastic outer shell that might make the boards less likely to break. I’d like to do this as well.
> 
> Is this the thread you were talking about?
> https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/151611-inexpensive-diy-masking-panels/
> 
> Found this in my notes as well:
> http://projectiondream.com/en/protostar-dc-fix-triple-black-velvet-devore/


Yes, that is the thread. I think he heated a socket wrench the size of the magnets and burned craters to glue the magnets into.

While googling, I found an AVS thread where someone mentioned a guy using Yard Sticks to build his Masking, and wrapped in velvet. Yard sticks to make the frames with popsicle sticks to in between or something similar. Not sure that would be sturdy enough to wrap the velvet around, but I liked his idea of using those black paper binders to clasp his masking to the screen. Since the Silver Ticket Screens have a Frame around it that is deeper than the screen, the masking could be clamped to the ST frame on the side and top (or bottom). If using Foam insulation boards from Lowes/HD, maybe gluing a thin piece of wood to the foam on the ends prior to wrapping so the clamp would rest on that thin piece of wood instead of clamping directly onto the Foam. Sounds easy enough. Easier than trying to deal with the magnets and ripping them out when taking the masking off. 

I'm wondering if 3/4" Foam is too thick for the masking?


----------



## Viche

tonybradley said:


> Yes, that is the thread. I think he heated a socket wrench the size of the magnets and burned craters to glue the magnets into.
> 
> While googling, I found an AVS thread where someone mentioned a guy using Yard Sticks to build his Masking, and wrapped in velvet. Yard sticks to make the frames with popsicle sticks to in between or something similar. Not sure that would be sturdy enough to wrap the velvet around, but I liked his idea of using those black paper binders to clasp his masking to the screen. Since the Silver Ticket Screens have a Frame around it that is deeper than the screen, the masking could be clamped to the ST frame on the side and top (or bottom). If using Foam insulation boards from Lowes/HD, maybe gluing a thin piece of wood to the foam on the ends prior to wrapping so the clamp would rest on that thin piece of wood instead of clamping directly onto the Foam. Sounds easy enough. Easier than trying to deal with the magnets and ripping them out when taking the masking off.
> 
> I'm wondering if 3/4" Foam is too thick for the masking?



Can you link to that post? I'm having a hard time envisioning it.


----------



## tonybradley

Viche said:


> Can you link to that post? I'm having a hard time envisioning it.


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-...k-frame-masking-system-pull-down-screens.html


----------



## ANSEK

Viche said:


> Where’s the follow-up?


Sorry. I'm traveling. I'll be back at the end of the week.


----------



## tonybradley

Viche said:


> Can you link to that post? I'm having a hard time envisioning it.


I bought a bunch of Yard Sticks from Lowes this weekend to build the Masking Frames from the $40 YardStick Masking thread. It was strange to purchase over 20 Yard Sticks. The young cashier asked me if I was a teacher. I said "No, my Measuring Tape Broke" and she said "Oh, Ok". 

I built the frames. The glue is drying now on my second panel. They are VERY flimsy. I tried putting a 1/4" staple between two rulers and they just split. I added the Craft Sticks all the way around the back to assist with stapling the Velvet as the other thread mentions. I'm a little worried that all the work to make these frames will be a waste once I start stapling the Velvet into the Craft Stick and Ruler. I can see the craft sticks just splitting in pieces. I'll be doing the Velvet sometime this week.

I still think the Foam Insulation would be more sturdy.


----------



## Laserfan

jbnpaul said:


> We got the screen yesterday... 135' silver. It has some patterns on the screen material. It is visible on the screen and shows up during bright scenes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see that there are other people who reported the same issue on this thread.
> 
> I will be contacting the seller via Amazon to see if this can be fixed.


 This thread deserves a bump, so I resurrect this post to say simply that I had some of the orange-peel, cellulite, dimpled-look wrinkles in my 125" HC screen (it seems HC is similar to the silver), and in looking critically at it today it seems all lumpiness is completely gone. It's been up for over a year and I honestly haven't thought about it until today for some reason, so I dunno how long it took exactly for the bumps to smooth-out.


Dunno either what the cause of it is/was, whether manufacturing process or storage or what-have-you but I'll bet customer complaints about this out-of-box must drive ST a little nuts. My own lumps were near the top of my screen so I didn't notice image anomalies, but it's still interesting to see that these disappeared over time.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Laserfan said:


> This thread deserves a bump, so I resurrect this post to say simply that I had some of the orange-peel, cellulite, dimpled-look wrinkles in my 125" HC screen (it seems HC is similar to the silver), and in looking critically at it today it seems all lumpiness is completely gone. It's been up for over a year and I honestly haven't thought about it until today for some reason, so I dunno how long it took exactly for the bumps to smooth-out.


HC is quite different from Silver. If you look at their own web page, they claim “No texture” for matte white, matte grey, HC, but not for Silver. Silver has a very visible texture and uneven pattern.

https://www.silverticketproducts.com/pages/how-do-i-choose-the-right-projection-screen-material


----------



## Laserfan

Dominic Chan said:


> HC is quite different from Silver.


Fine, but they're both Vinyl. Maybe jbnpaul or another Silver owner will see this and relate their experience. I only posted because I was honestly surprised, shocked even, at how completely my material smoothed-out. I can't locate where it was dappled before.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Laserfan said:


> Fine, but they're both Vinyl. Maybe jbnpaul or another Silver owner will see this and relate their experience. I only posted because I was honestly surprised, shocked even, at how completely my material smoothed-out. I can't locate where it was dappled before.


They are both vinyl, but the main issue with the Sikver was not the “dappling”, but rather a surface texture that is blotchy and very noticeable especially when viewing panning shots.


----------



## jbnpaul

Laserfan said:


> Fine, but they're both Vinyl. Maybe jbnpaul or another Silver owner will see this and relate their experience. I only posted because I was honestly surprised, shocked even, at how completely my material smoothed-out. I can't locate where it was dappled before.




Yes.my experience was the same. The wringles disappeared completely after few days. 

I also have samples of all silver ticket materials . I can get a comparison shot tomorrow.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Laserfan

jbnpaul said:


> Yes.my experience was the same. The wringles disappeared completely after few days.
> 
> I also have samples of all silver ticket materials . I can get a comparison shot tomorrow.


 Thanks for commenting, and congrats that you had the same experience as me, although in my case it took many weeks at least for the wrinkles to go away. Maybe you commented already here, but are you glad you got the Silver? No "sparkles" or distractions with it? I had gotten the HC just because I'd been using a matte white Gatorfoam board for years and wanted to go in the completely opposite direction. And I'm glad I did, I like the screen and the material. Even with .95 gain and pj in low lamp mode, well, movies look like movies and I don't watch any "TV" or sports on my setup.

A comparison would be interesting if you can set that up and show us!


----------



## mdcubsfan

I just stumbled across this thread and now am trying to figure out whether or not to upgrade my current 90" Stewart screen that came with our house.

As I'm looking to get a 4K projector, saw these screens on Amazon for pretty cheap and pretty big! Looks like the 2 main brands there were Silver Ticket and Elite Screens. They both have lots of reviews and prices for 120" or 135" larger are (to me) suprisingly cheap 

For both brands, are there certain options I want to choose? I saw on Silver Ticket website that standard is 16:9 

For my setup in dedicated theater room, looks like the white would be the best option? (only use the room at night, when no ambient light)

Also looked at the Elite Screens website (they have tons of different models!) and choices there are white or gray....

I didn't know (but know now) that Stewart is a super expensive brand, and was wondering if the difference in size upgrade would outweight any quality compromise (although I've seen multiple posters say that the super high $ ones aren't necessarily that much better in image or viewing quality)

Thanks for any help or advice!

(uploaded pic has some of my speaker models as I was looking to add Atmos speakers as well)


----------



## jbnpaul

Laserfan said:


> Thanks for commenting, and congrats that you had the same experience as me, although in my case it took many weeks at least for the wrinkles to go away. Maybe you commented already here, but are you glad you got the Silver? No "sparkles" or distractions with it? I had gotten the HC just because I'd been using a matte white Gatorfoam board for years and wanted to go in the completely opposite direction. And I'm glad I did, I like the screen and the material. Even with .95 gain and pj in low lamp mode, well, movies look like movies and I don't watch any "TV" or sports on my setup.
> 
> A comparison would be interesting if you can set that up and show us!












These are close up pictures of the sample material. The white and HC are on the top row. The grey and silver are the second row.
This might sound surprising but the white and Grey material have a slight grain on it whereas both silver(is the lighter one) and hc is smooth. The grain wouldn't be visible at all from about two feet away. So for all practical purposes they should be considered smooth.

The hc material is thicker than the rest.
What is unique about silver is it is slightly reflective. Before I chose my screen, I did side by side comparisons which I posted here as well.
The silver have some sparkles on the screen. But this is not visible unless you are looking sideways from a feet or so. I have heard this also causes artifacts but i haven't found anything worth complaining given the prices.

I have a room with light walls, white ceiling, and blackout curtains. Very little sunlight but there is a bit of ambient light.
I am prefecly happy with my screen so far. Anyway there are some features/properties that goes with alr screens.

They offer screen gain. ( Brighter pictures). But they do this by limiting the viewing angle. This doesn't pause a problem for us since our viewing positions are optimal. As a side effect this also causes some hot spotting, where the middle of the screen appear to be brighter than the edges. But this is not noticable in my room. But I am sure it is there and you can see it if you take a picture and measure brightness. 

They help you fight ambient light, especially the ones that gets reflected from the ceiling, light color side walls etc. While the projector is in use we turn off lights and keep the curtains closed. We have 4 daylight led lights rated at 685 lumens each in the room. With the lights on the projector is not watchable and I don't think anything else would be watchable as well. For the record we used to turn off the lights even when we used to watch our TV there. Either way while the projector is on there is enough light in the room except when some dark scene is on.

I also believe they help you perceive improved contrast due to the raised black floor.

If I remember correctly the hc offered better blacks when I compared them. And it was tough choosing between the silver and HC. But I concluded given my room conditions silver might work better. 

I was concerned about the material when I received it. I posted the initial pictures a while back. I was thinking of returning it and trying another brand or the the hc material. But those concerns disappeared as the material evened out in a week or so. 





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Laserfan

jbnpaul said:


> These are close up pictures of the sample material...


I assume they are White then High Contrast on top, and Silver then Grey below?

The HC looks super dark of course, so I was a bit taken-aback to see it side-by-side like this. Here's a pic of my HC screen which is reflecting some soft white incandescent light on the left, and then bright (snow outside here) window light to the right. It certainly doesn't appear as dark as your pic jbnpaul and had I seen that prior to ordering I might have gotten the Silver too!


----------



## tonybradley

mdcubsfan said:


> I just stumbled across this thread and now am trying to figure out whether or not to upgrade my current 90" Stewart screen that came with our house.
> 
> As I'm looking to get a 4K projector, saw these screens on Amazon for pretty cheap and pretty big! Looks like the 2 main brands there were Silver Ticket and Elite Screens. They both have lots of reviews and prices for 120" or 135" larger are (to me) suprisingly cheap
> 
> For both brands, are there certain options I want to choose? I saw on Silver Ticket website that standard is 16:9
> 
> For my setup in dedicated theater room, looks like the white would be the best option? (only use the room at night, when no ambient light)
> 
> Also looked at the Elite Screens website (they have tons of different models!) and choices there are white or gray....
> 
> I didn't know (but know now) that Stewart is a super expensive brand, and was wondering if the difference in size upgrade would outweight any quality compromise (although I've seen multiple posters say that the super high $ ones aren't necessarily that much better in image or viewing quality)
> 
> Thanks for any help or advice!
> 
> (uploaded pic has some of my speaker models as I was looking to add Atmos speakers as well)


This is just my opinion.....but 90" Projector screen is way too small. I had a 100" DIY Blackout Cloth Screen for 13 years. It served it's purposes. I recently purchased a new 1080p Projector and wanted to go bigger, at 120". I purchased the 120" 16:9 White Silver Ticket Screen and LOVE it. I have no experience with Stewart, other than seeing how expensive they are. Would never be an option for me. I read a good review of Silver Ticket from a professional Calibrator who ranked it near the top. Is it? No idea, but it's way better than my DIY screen. For me, I'd go with a much bigger Silver Ticket screen any day over a 90" Stewart Screen, but opinions will vary. I'm sure the Stewart will produce a better picture.....but will it REALLY unless room is ideal (complete light controlled, and I don't mean just ambient lighting, but felt darkening the room) and your Projector is calibrated perfectly?


----------



## rexdragon

*Question for Silver Ticket screen owners living in Hawaii?*

I live in a tropical area of the world similar to Hawaii--->Will the weather (high humidity and tropical conditions) have a detrimental effect on the screen (over a prolong length of time) if your home is non-air conditioned? Or am I safe going from a white wall to a silver ticket screen (pairing with a 4k uhd projector)?


----------



## Laserfan

rexdragon said:


> I live in a tropical area of the world similar to Hawaii--->Will the weather (high humidity and tropical conditions) have a detrimental effect on the screen (over a prolong length of time) if your home is non-air conditioned? Or am I safe going from a white wall to a silver ticket screen (pairing with a 4k uhd projector)?


Well there are different screen materials from ST of course, but at least for my own STR-235125-HC I would say "no problem" as the screen material is vinyl, the frame is aluminum, and the frame-wrap ("light absorbing black velvet fabric") is not a material that would encourage mold for example.


Maybe someone with the woven acoustic material will comment about that, but my guess is it's also synthetic so high humidity should not bother it. And if your climate is truly Hawaii-like then it doesn't actually get beastly hot i.e. 120F or whatever, though I doubt even that would affect the vinyl screen.


----------



## wpbpete

Hi guys,

Has anybody measured the gain on the AT screens? The claim is 1.1 but some thread comments make me wonder.


----------



## mdcubsfan

Finally ready to upgrade to Epson 5050, and was also looking at upgrading a screen too from a current 92" diagonal to 120".

I was looking at one of the Silver Ticket screens off Amazon, but my AV guy recommended Grandview....I don't know anything about them and was ready to pull the trigger on Silver ticket based on reviews and the price, but does anyone know anything about grandview?

He said its a 1.2 gain screen if that helps. Don't know if any certain screen would work better with a new 5050. 

Thanks for any help!


----------



## MississippiMan

mdcubsfan said:


> Finally ready to upgrade to Epson 5050, and was also looking at upgrading a screen too from a current 92" diagonal to 120".
> 
> I was looking at one of the Silver Ticket screens off Amazon, but my AV guy recommended Grandview....I don't know anything about them and was ready to pull the trigger on Silver ticket based on reviews and the price, but does anyone know anything about grandview?
> 
> He said its a 1.2 gain screen if that helps. Don't know if any certain screen would work better with a new 5050.
> 
> Thanks for any help!


With the 5050 hitting a 120" screen you certainly do not need 1.2 gain. I'm a "A/V Guy" too and I would certainly know better than that. 

I mean really.......even if you placed the 5050 all the way back at 24'-9", it would deliver *50 foot lambert *off a 1.2 gain screen. That just too much for anything except 3D. and that is at the maximum Throw, and I'd bet the Baby's Pablum that screen would suffer some pretty bad hot spotting at any reasonable Throw distance like mentioned next.

Move inward to 14"-9" and at that distance with 1.1 Gain (Silver Ticket Matte White) you still have a "Bigly" 54 foot lambert. 

So your advantage is being able to spend less, run the PJ's lamp in Economy for non-HDR source material, use calibration on any selected mode (...except Cinema...) and basically rule the roost, image quality-wise.

I don't know enough about your Room / Viewing conditions to expound further, but if you really want some purposefully direct advice that is unbiased by profit intentions,post up as much info as possible about your situation. You have a lot of leeway going for you, so I'd advise you use it to your best advantage.


----------



## mdcubsfan

*Thanks for any suggestions....*



MississippiMan said:


> With the 5050 hitting a 120" screen you certainly do not need 1.2 gain. I'm a "A/V Guy" too and I would certainly know better than that.
> 
> I mean really.......even if you placed the 5050 all the way back at 24'-9", it would deliver *50 foot lambert *off a 1.2 gain screen. That just too much for anything except 3D. and that is at the maximum Throw, and I'd bet the Baby's Pablum that screen would suffer some pretty bad hot spotting at any reasonable Throw distance like mentioned next.
> 
> Move inward to 14"-9" and at that distance with 1.1 Gain (Silver Ticket Matte White) you still have a "Bigly" 54 foot lambert.
> 
> So your advantage is being able to spend less, run the PJ's lamp in Economy for non-HDR source material, use calibration on any selected mode (...except Cinema...) and basically rule the roost, image quality-wise.
> 
> I don't know enough about your Room / Viewing conditions to expound further, but if you really want some purposefully direct advice that is unbiased by profit intentions,post up as much info as possible about your situation. You have a lot of leeway going for you, so I'd advise you use it to your best advantage.


Thanks so much for the advice. I really don't know anything about AV technicalities so I don't understand most of your terminology LOL . So higher gain means more reflection / brightness and I don't need too much?

I've included some pics here, they're a bit clustered, but maybe they could help me get some ideas.

Currently a 90" diagonal. Room is pretty dark (and we almost watch exclusively at night). I'm trying to see if we could swing a 120 or even a 135? In the pic I enclosed, it shows current screen and red is approximately what 120 would cover and black is 135. I have our center speaker down below so any new screen would have to be elevated so it doesn't block the center speaker.....

16 foot distance from the projector to the screen. Thank you!!


----------



## MississippiMan

mdcubsfan said:


> Thanks so much for the advice. I really don't know anything about AV technicalities so I don't understand most of your terminology LOL . So higher gain means more reflection / brightness and I don't need too much?



Honesty is best, and elicits like responses. We all started somewhere down the road.




> I've included some pics here, they're a bit clustered, but maybe they could help me get some ideas.
> 
> Currently a 90" diagonal. Room is pretty dark (and we almost watch exclusively at night). I'm trying to see if we could swing a 120 or even a 135? In the pic I enclosed, it shows current screen and red is approximately what 120 would cover and black is 135. I have our center speaker down below so any new screen would have to be elevated so it doesn't block the center speaker.....
> 
> 16 foot distance from the projector to the screen. Thank you!!



Short & Sweet and directly to the point.



You have lumen output to spare....go for a ST-135" diagonal @16' Throw (...still up there at 43 foot lambert...)


S'what I would do iffin' I was you.


----------



## Laserfan

mdcubsfan said:


> Thanks so much for the advice. I really don't know anything about AV technicalities so I don't understand most of your terminology LOL . So higher gain means more reflection / brightness and I don't need too much?
> 
> I've included some pics here, they're a bit clustered, but maybe they could help me get some ideas.
> 
> Currently a 90" diagonal. Room is pretty dark (and we almost watch exclusively at night). I'm trying to see if we could swing a 120 or even a 135? In the pic I enclosed, it shows current screen and red is approximately what 120 would cover and black is 135. I have our center speaker down below so any new screen would have to be elevated so it doesn't block the center speaker.....
> 
> 16 foot distance from the projector to the screen. Thank you!!


Another vote here for the largest screen that fits. FWIW I used to have a 14' wide front wall and my 120" wide 'scope aspect screen fit-and-looked just fine against it.


It seems your screen fronts cabinets, so make sure the 135 still allows you to open/close at least the outer cabinet doors? Maybe they're fake!?


----------



## mdcubsfan

Thanks MississippiMan and Laserfan for the advice! Will plan to go with the 135 - those are real cabinets, but they can't open now because of the placement of the current 90" screen. Will just have to mount a little higher up so we won't cover up the center speaker.

From my measurements, a 135" screen wouldn't go past the currently blocked ones but would still allow us to use the outside cabinets on either side. 

When I told my installer I'm planning to go with the 135", he said we'll have to sit far back, but our seating is already 16' back so I think we'd be ok.


----------



## Viche

Just curious if guys have noticed an ongoing smell from the vinyl used in the Silver ticket screens. I've always read to avoid stuff made out of vinyl, especially from China (it all is), because of things like lead contamination and toxic off-gassing. With kids, I try to make the house fairly toxic-free. Any thoughts (other than X in your house is also toxic and you don't worry about that...type comments). Thanks.


----------



## Low Profile

Viche said:


> Just curious if guys have noticed an ongoing smell from the vinyl used in the Silver ticket screens. I've always read to avoid stuff made out of vinyl, especially from China (it all is), because of things like lead contamination and toxic off-gassing. With kids, I try to make the house fairly toxic-free. Any thoughts (other than X in your house is also toxic and you don't worry about that...type comments). Thanks.


I purchased a *STR-169150 Silver Ticket 4K Ultra HD Ready Cinema Format (6 Piece Fixed Frame) Projector Screen (16:9, 150", White Material)* a few months ago. Based on a number of comments I read online I was expecting there to be a smell and a smell strong enough to knock me over. Just wasn't the case. Not much smell to speak of at all and certainly no ongoing smell and it's a big screen.


----------



## Laserfan

Viche said:


> Just curious if guys have noticed an ongoing smell from the vinyl used in the Silver ticket screens.


Our 125" HC had no "break-in" period other than to shed some wrinkles--no odor at all, either intially or since. My wife is particularly sensitive to any kind of smell and has never commented on it.


----------



## tonybradley

​


Viche said:


> Just curious if guys have noticed an ongoing smell from the vinyl used in the Silver ticket screens. I've always read to avoid stuff made out of vinyl, especially from China (it all is), because of things like lead contamination and toxic off-gassing. With kids, I try to make the house fairly toxic-free. Any thoughts (other than X in your house is also toxic and you don't worry about that...type comments). Thanks.


I just read the others who responded about no smell. I don't get that. Mine had a horrible smell. I'm very sensitive to smells. Just to preface, my family calls me the Super Sniffer, as I smell things strongly that nobody else can smell at all. I put my screen together in my basement and had to open the windows. It was so bad that my nose was completely stopped up within about 10 minutes being near it. After I was finished, I left it in the basement room with the windows and left them open. I had a horrible headache that evening. I closed the windows that evening and for the next few days, I'd go open the windows and leave them open all day for it to air out as much as it could. I wanted to take it outside, but was afraid something would happen to the screen. After a few days, the smell was still present, but not nearly as strong as the first couple of days. It's now in my HT room with no windows and I don't smell anything.


----------



## Laserfan

tonybradley said:


> ...Mine had a horrible smell...



Hmm you make it sound just godawful, yet didn't mention it in your earlier post. How many days total, if you recall, were required for the smell to dissipate?

I might've noted a plastic-y smell when I unboxed my High Contrast, but the assembly and mounting/use of it are in my lower level, which is hot-water heated and has no cooling, thus no air ducts, and we never open windows so...I guess the warning for Viche is "YMMV" particularly as every different screen material is no doubt different one from the other. And since nobody yet has complained that theirs still smells, there apparently is no ongoing off-gassing.



tonybradley said:


> This is just my opinion.....but 90" Projector screen is way too small. I had a 100" DIY Blackout Cloth Screen for 13 years. It served it's purposes. I recently purchased a new 1080p Projector and wanted to go bigger, at 120". *I purchased the 120" 16:9 White Silver Ticket Screen and LOVE it.* I have no experience with Stewart, other than seeing how expensive they are. Would never be an option for me. I read a good review of Silver Ticket from a professional Calibrator who ranked it near the top. Is it? No idea, but it's way better than my DIY screen. For me, I'd go with a much bigger Silver Ticket screen any day over a 90" Stewart Screen, but opinions will vary. I'm sure the Stewart will produce a better picture.....but will it REALLY unless room is ideal (complete light controlled, and I don't mean just ambient lighting, but felt darkening the room) and your Projector is calibrated perfectly?


----------



## tonybradley

Laserfan said:


> Hmm you make it sound just godawful, yet didn't mention it in your earlier post. How many days total, if you recall, were required for the smell to dissipate?
> 
> I might've noted a plastic-y smell when I unboxed my High Contrast, but the assembly and mounting/use of it are in my lower level, which is hot-water heated and has no cooling, thus no air ducts, and we never open windows so...I guess the warning for Viche is "YMMV" particularly as every different screen material is no doubt different one from the other. And since nobody yet has complained that theirs still smells, there apparently is no ongoing off-gassing.


I left it in the room with the windows open for 2 or 3 days maybe. I can't recall exactly. I then moved it to my HT room and installed it on the wall. I recall there was still a smell, but wasn't as overwhelming as when I first opened it. It then took me a bit to install my mount and get the PJ up. So by the time I did all that, a week or so, I don't recall smelling much. Again, it's been a while so I can't remember exact days, but do remember the smell was horrible to me. But again, I am VERY sensitive to smells.


----------



## Viche

Low Profile said:


> I purchased a *STR-169150 Silver Ticket 4K Ultra HD Ready Cinema Format (6 Piece Fixed Frame) Projector Screen (16:9, 150", White Material)* a few months ago. Based on a number of comments I read online I was expecting there to be a smell and a smell strong enough to knock me over. Just wasn't the case. Not much smell to speak of at all and certainly no ongoing smell and it's a big screen.





Laserfan said:


> Our 125" HC had no "break-in" period other than to shed some wrinkles--no odor at all, either intially or since. My wife is particularly sensitive to any kind of smell and has never commented on it.





tonybradley said:


> I just read the others who responded about no smell. I don't get that. Mine had a horrible smell. I'm very sensitive to smells. Just to preface, my family calls me the Super Sniffer, as I smell things strongly that nobody else can smell at all. I put my screen together in my basement and had to open the windows. It was so bad that my nose was completely stopped up within about 10 minutes being near it. After I was finished, I left it in the basement room with the windows and left them open. I had a horrible headache that evening. I closed the windows that evening and for the next few days, I'd go open the windows and leave them open all day for it to air out as much as it could. I wanted to take it outside, but was afraid something would happen to the screen. After a few days, the smell was still present, but not nearly as strong as the first couple of days. It's now in my HT room with no windows and I don't smell anything.



Interesting. So which materials did you guys have?


Laserfan: HC
Low Profile: ?
tonybradley: ?


----------



## jer181

mdcubsfan said:


> Thanks MississippiMan and Laserfan for the advice! Will plan to go with the 135 - those are real cabinets, but they can't open now because of the placement of the current 90" screen. Will just have to mount a little higher up so we won't cover up the center speaker.
> 
> From my measurements, a 135" screen wouldn't go past the currently blocked ones but would still allow us to use the outside cabinets on either side.
> 
> When I told my installer I'm planning to go with the 135", he said we'll have to sit far back, but our seating is already 16' back so I think we'd be ok.


I'm back like 8-10ft from a 135" AT from Silver ticket and I have no problems. Grab the biggest screen that can fit in your vision, you won't be disappointed.


----------



## tonybradley

Viche said:


> Interesting. So which materials did you guys have?
> 
> 
> Laserfan: HC
> Low Profile: ?
> tonybradley: ?


Not sure. It is the STR-169120. White 120" 16:9 Screen.


----------



## mdcubsfan

Thanks for all the help and input on size - I'm going to go with a 16:9 135" since it will physically fit in the room, looking forward to the bigger size!

But in choosing the material, had one more last question. In my picture, current screen is 90" diagonal. The black outline is roughly the size of the 135". I was thinking I'd have to mount it higher so that it wouldn't cover the speaker, but I guess in reading the woven acoustic would allow me to place the center speaker behind the screen? In our room it's pretty dark, and we watch the projector at night probably 95% plus of the time. 

Is it recommended that I go with the white or gray and set the bottom of the screen just above the center speaker or is it better to go woven acoustic and put the center speaker behind? I'm not sure exactly where the installer will recommend setting the height of the screen (may depend on the physical setup). And even if the woven acoustic is supposed to allow sound to pass, from acoustic quality standpoint is it really better to still have the center speaker not covered by a screen? Thanks!!


----------



## Laserfan

mdcubsfan said:


> Thanks for all the help and input on size - I'm going to go with a 16:9 135" since it will physically fit in the room, looking forward to the bigger size!
> 
> But in choosing the material, had one more last question...


 Just in case it's not occurred to you: another idea at least to consider is to get a 2.35:1 screen, which just eyeballing it might fit perfectly Above your speaker yet Between the outer cabinets. For many/most movies it would be awesome, although for 1.85:1 movies and TV it would be larger than you currently have but maybe not as large as you want.


But that is what I would do myself.


----------



## Viche

tonybradley said:


> Not sure. It is the STR-169120. White 120" 16:9 Screen.



Laserfan: HC 
Low Profile: ?
tonybradley: white (strong smell)


hmmm.....


----------



## Radio81

Any screenshots of the High Contrast material in action? Trying to choose between that and white. I have some ambient light, and white ceiling, but otherwise my walls are dark and my carpet is dark enough.

Projector is a Benq HT2050, and looking at 100" - 110" of screen.


----------



## Low Profile

Viche said:


> Laserfan: HC
> Low Profile: ?
> tonybradley: white (strong smell)
> 
> 
> hmmm.....


I linked to the exact screen I purchased. Do I really need to spell it out for you? _*shakes head*_


----------



## tonybradley

Viche said:


> Laserfan: HC
> Low Profile: ?
> tonybradley: white (strong smell)
> 
> 
> hmmm.....


Smells are different for everyone. Like I stated, I'm VERY sensitive to smells. My wife smelled it and said it was strong, but didn't really bother her. 
It gave me a massive headache. I was out cutting grass the other day and there were some guys cleaning off a lot about 150 yards away from where I was. I could smell their cigarette smoke that far away. We are all different with our senses. Order it from Amazon. Take it out of the box and see if it bothers you. If it does, send it back.


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

I had no noticeable smell from my 106" 1.0 Grey, but it was also open box so that could have contributed.


----------



## mdcubsfan

Sorry if people can forgive me, one last question - was just about to pull the trigger on a Silver Ticket 135" Woven Acoustic. But in one of the Epson 5050 threads I saw something about the seymour screens being the best for acoustic?

Does anyone know if I would notice a big step up in paying for a $1500 Seymour screen versus a $500 Silver ticket screen?

Room is pretty dark but we only use the projector at night time, so it's totally dark by then.

Epson 5050 projector will be set up 15-16' away from the screen, which would go in approximately the black rectangle as pictured. 

More choices to paralyze my decision making - thanks for any help and suggestions.

Behind is a white wall and white cabinets as you can see, so was considering the added black. Current screen is 90"


----------



## MississippiMan

The Seymour Screen is _a bit_ better in most respects. $1000 better?


No.

And 2 Layered Spandex trumps them both acoustically speaking. It's only caveat is being 0.7 gain....however it's 2 layer White over Black construction provides the best Contrast of any, along with a absolute pristine image....no visible weave of pattern from just 12" away! And you have lumen to spare anyway.

Total cost of a 135" Zero Edged Spandex build.....approx $200.00. Well, ya gotta toss in a both of DIY sweat equity, but between the audio performance, visual quality, and extremely low cost....it's really no "sweat" at all. 




> More choices to paralyze my decision making - thanks for any help and suggestions.


 I didn't want to disappoint. 
BTW...some exceptionally nice member Theaters use Spandex...so it's no DIY Slum case.


----------



## mdcubsfan

MississippiMan said:


> Honesty is best, and elicits like responses. We all started somewhere down the road.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Short & Sweet and directly to the point.
> 
> 
> 
> You have lumen output to spare....go for a ST-135" diagonal @16' Throw (...still up there at 43 foot lambert...)
> 
> 
> S'what I would do iffin' I was you.





Laserfan said:


> Another vote here for the largest screen that fits. FWIW I used to have a 14' wide front wall and my 120" wide 'scope aspect screen fit-and-looked just fine against it.
> 
> 
> It seems your screen fronts cabinets, so make sure the 135 still allows you to open/close at least the outer cabinet doors? Maybe they're fake!?





MississippiMan said:


> The Seymour Screen is _a bit_ better in most respects. $1000 better?
> 
> 
> No.
> 
> And 2 Layered Spandex trumps them both acoustically speaking. It's only caveat is being 0.7 gain....however it's 2 layer White over Black construction provides the best Contrast of any, along with a absolute pristine image....no visible weave of pattern from just 12" away! And you have lumen to spare anyway.
> 
> Total cost of a 135" Zero Edged Spandex build.....approx $200.00. Well, ya gotta toss in a both of DIY sweat equity, but between the audio performance, visual quality, and extremely low cost....it's really no "sweat" at all.
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't want to disappoint.
> BTW...some exceptionally nice member Theaters use Spandex...so it's no DIY Slum case.


Thanks so much for the reply and the help - when I talked to the rep at Seymour, he said that their black material behind the screen wold also cut down on any possible reflection from the projector. Is that something to be concerned about since I have a white background? He said that may reflect back and degrade the image....

I don't think the silver ticket has anything about any black material to counter this possible issue. (I think him bringing that up concerned me more than anything else)


----------



## Radio81

Radio81 said:


> Any screenshots of the High Contrast material in action? Trying to choose between that and white. I have some ambient light, and white ceiling, but otherwise my walls are dark and my carpet is dark enough.
> 
> Projector is a Benq HT2050, and looking at 100" - 110" of screen.


Anyone?


----------



## Dominic Chan

mdcubsfan said:


> I don't think the silver ticket has anything about any black material to counter this possible issue. (I think him bringing that up concerned me more than anything else)


The Silver Ticket acoustic screen does come with a black backing.


----------



## MississippiMan

mdcubsfan said:


> Thanks so much for the reply and the help - when I talked to the rep at Seymour, he said that their black material behind the screen wold also cut down on any possible reflection from the projector. Is that something to be concerned about since I have a white background? He said that may reflect back and degrade the image....
> 
> I don't think the silver ticket has anything about any black material to counter this possible issue. (I think him bringing that up concerned me more than anything else)







Dominic Chan said:


> The Silver Ticket acoustic screen does come with a black backing.



Using a Black background has been the accepted practice for some time. Only that, for the majority of time, it didn't involve another layer of fabric (...for fear of worsening AT performance...) but rather painting the Wall behind Black, or placing a Dark material on the back wall....behind the speakers...of course.


Once a few Mfg did try a black backer, their AT performance suffered accordingly, yet it became an accepted caveat anyway due to the need of such. But visual performance also took a hit. Morie problems arose with Perforated Screens because of the "Black Dots" set against a overlying White surface...and Weaved screens only did a bit better....but only when the weave was laid out diagonally.



Bluntly put....if you opt for a inexpensive AT Screen such as the ST, you will be getting a less accurate AT experience. Will you notice it? Probably not.....and while I'm not aware of the ST-AT Screen's construction, and as to if the Black backing is a unified assembly with the Screen material, my gut tells me you could mitigate the AT accuracy loss of the ST-AT by replacing the material behind the Screen with stretched Black Milliskin Spandex....as it is seriously doubtful the material that is being used as the Black backing is as AT as the spandex is.


----------



## Dominic Chan

MississippiMan said:


> Bluntly put....if you opt for a inexpensive AT Screen such as the ST, you will be getting a less accurate AT experience. Will you notice it? Probably not.....and while I'm not aware of the ST-AT Screen's construction, and as to if the Black backing is a unified assembly with the Screen material, my gut tells me you could mitigate the AT accuracy loss of the ST-AT by replacing the material behind the Screen with stretched Black Milliskin Spandex....as it is seriously doubtful the material that is being used as the Black backing is as AT as the spandex is.


The ST Black Backing is a separate piece that you can install _optionally_.


----------



## MississippiMan

Dominic Chan said:


> The ST Black Backing is a separate piece that you can install _optionally_.



Well then, in light of the fact that unless someone steps up with some definitive info/specs/image on the ST BB, it would be well worth having the Black Miliskin Spandex on hand as a "best of & better than" alternative.


----------



## Dominic Chan

MississippiMan said:


> Well then, in light of the fact that unless someone steps up with some definitive info/specs/image on the ST BB, it would be well worth having the Black Miliskin Spandex on hand as a "best of & better than" alternative.


I have not used ST acoustic and can’t comment on the quality, good or bad. I was just answering some specific questions that people asked.


----------



## ereed

I'm also using ST 120 inch 16x9 white screen. Its not AT screen. I've been thinking to put my center behind screen for increased dialog performance and thinking about replacing the screen with spandex but still use the ST velvet border. Only issue I see is the veritical bar that runs in the middle of the frame which keeps it from bending. Has anyone kept the ST border and swap with spandex AT screen? Easy or difficult to do?


----------



## MississippiMan

Dominic Chan said:


> I have not used ST acoustic and can’t comment on the quality, good or bad. I was just answering some specific questions that people asked.



Understood...I was merely using the stated content in your last post to qualify a point....which was since the ST Black Backer was separate, using Black Spandex would undoubtedly be better. Your input was very important!


----------



## MississippiMan

ereed said:


> I'm also using ST 120 inch 16x9 white screen. Its not AT screen. I've been thinking to put my center behind screen for increased dialog performance and thinking about replacing the screen with spandex but still use the ST velvet border. Only issue I see is the veritical bar that runs in the middle of the frame which keeps it from bending. Has anyone kept the ST border and swap with spandex AT screen? Easy or difficult to do?



They have, using several different methods of attachment.


----------



## titan ii

I have a fixed 110" coming this week and am working on a mount. I would appreciate in someone could give me the "thickness" of the frame. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Dominic Chan

titan ii said:


> I have a fixed 110" coming this week and am working on a mount. I would appreciate in someone could give me the "thickness" of the frame. Thanks in advance.


The frame depth is 1.25":
https://www.silverticketproducts.com/products/str-169110


----------



## titan ii

Dominic Chan said:


> The frame depth is 1.25":
> https://www.silverticketproducts.com/products/str-169110


Now I feel really stupid. I looked about everywhere, but stopped at useful links. Thanks much.


----------



## genaccmiller

*Ready made Screen*

I get that Spandex is the material of choice for DIY AT screen. However, has anyone had experience using one of the ready made options and is happy with both the sound and the image reproduction? I am looking for experiences with either 120 inches or 135 inches 16:9 diagonal size AT screen under $500.


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

genaccmiller said:


> I get that Spandex is the material of choice for DIY AT screen. However, has anyone had experience using one of the ready made options and is happy with both the sound and the image reproduction? I am looking for experiences with either 120 inches or 135 inches 16:9 diagonal size AT screen under $500.


After several years with a multi-layer spandex AT screen, I would try pretty much any purpose-built solution instead... the hit you take in gain is just not worth the attractive price. Going from spandex to a Silver Ticket Grey 1.0 screen was a night-and-day difference and I wouldn't expect their AT solutions to disappoint at all either.


----------



## genaccmiller

Stephen Hopkins said:


> After several years with a multi-layer spandex AT screen, I would try pretty much any purpose-built solution instead... the hit you take in gain is just not worth the attractive price. Going from spandex to a Silver Ticket Grey 1.0 screen was a night-and-day difference and I wouldn't expect their AT solutions to disappoint at all either.


Hello - are you saying your experience was better with a ready made screen? Quite contradictory in this forum isn't it?

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk


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## Stephen Hopkins

Night and day better, and that was using multi-layer white-silver spandex purchased from the recommended supplier and stretched the recommended amount. I had no issue with sound quality, wrinkles, etc... it's just the low-gain sapped the life out of the image, even with a relatively bright projector and dark room.


----------



## genaccmiller

Stephen Hopkins said:


> Night and day better, and that was using multi-layer white-silver spandex purchased from the recommended supplier and stretched the recommended amount. I had no issue with sound quality, wrinkles, etc... it's just the low-gain sapped the life out of the image, even with a relatively bright projector and dark room.


Got it. So would a ST acoustic screen with a projector like ht3550 be good? I was told that if I get spandex I need a brighter projector like optoma uhd51alv. 

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk


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## Stephen Hopkins

I'd say it should be a solid combination. Even when I had an extremely bright Epson 3000, the spandex screen still sucked the life out of the image.


----------



## Gamecock24

genaccmiller said:


> Got it. So would a ST acoustic screen with a projector like ht3550 be good? I was told that if I get spandex I need a brighter projector like optoma uhd51alv.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk




I’m using an Optoma UHD51ALV on a spandex screen. And it still sucks the life out of the picture. It looks good sometimes but next to some real screen samples the difference is night and day. I am using the spandex in an unconventional way as a drop down screen hung from the ceiling with command hooks and some paracord putting tension on the screen from the bottom with no backing but still I know it can be better. The spandex was just a temporary solution me though so I haven’t much effort into making it look better. I say if budget is the issue then spandex can be a great temporary screen until you can get a quality screen but I wouldn’t use it for a permanent solution. If you’re spending thousands of dollars on a HT room and projector why compromise on the screen especially when ST screen are so affordable. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## genaccmiller

Gamecock24 said:


> I’m using an Optoma UHD51ALV on a spandex screen. And it still sucks the life out of the picture. It looks good sometimes but next to some real screen samples the difference is night and day. I am using the spandex in an unconventional way as a drop down screen hung from the ceiling with command hooks and some paracord putting tension on the screen from the bottom with no backing but still I know it can be better. The spandex was just a temporary solution me though so I haven’t much effort into making it look better. I say if budget is the issue then spandex can be a great temporary screen until you can get a quality screen but I wouldn’t use it for a permanent solution. If you’re spending thousands of dollars on a HT room and projector why compromise on the screen especially when ST screen are so affordable.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes that's my exact question. ST is affordable but I am hearing feedback on this forum that the weave pattern is shown and it will not match the quality of spandex. But your experience seems to be that you are not fully satisfied with the spandex.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk


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## 4fit?

genaccmiller said:


> Got it. So would a ST acoustic screen with a projector like ht3550 be good? I was told that if I get spandex I need a brighter projector like optoma uhd51alv.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk


I'm using a HT2050 on a ST 135" 16:9 AT screen (though the screen is currently just mounted on a standard wall as I haven't built the false wall yet). I have zero issues with brightness and know it would be even better in a painted and prepped room. I also see no weave from around 12' back. 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


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## Gamecock24

genaccmiller said:


> Yes that's my exact question. ST is affordable but I am hearing feedback on this forum that the weave pattern is shown and it will not match the quality of spandex. But your experience seems to be that you are not fully satisfied with the spandex.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk




No, I’m not satisfied with spandex but that could be due to my setup being temporary. The difference between the DIY spandex screen and a ST screen is if you don’t like the ST screen you can pack it up and send it back to Amazon or sell it in the classifieds. You may be able to resell the spandex but you probably can’t return it. 
I can’t speak for the weave of the ST screens bc I haven’t seen one but it seems like you’d have to have really good eyes or be sitting really close to see the weave. I have tested a dozen different screen materials using my Optoma and every one them looked better than the spandex IMHO. 
Have you priced out what it would cost to build a DIY screen vs the ST? Is the price difference plus time and effort to make the screen worth the savings to you? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## genaccmiller

4fit? said:


> I'm using a HT2050 on a ST 135" 16:9 AT screen (though the screen is currently just mounted on a standard wall as I haven't built the false wall yet). I have zero issues with brightness and know it would be even better in a painted and prepped room. I also see no weave from around 12' back.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


Thanks. Assuming I go with an ST screen my choices for projector are as follows.

1. optoma Uhd51alv
2. benq ht550
3. Epson 3700

My room characteristics are 11.2 feet between lens to AT screen and about 13 feet width with a 7.5 feet ceiling. I would ideally like a 135 inch diagonal 16:9 but I guess that may not be possible unless I get the Optoma. Given that vertical adjustment is extremely important given my room height adjustment what should I go with? The Epson would probably project only a max 120 inch image for this room size but has a lot of adjustments. The benq will project 135 inch from this distance but does not have many vertical adjustments.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk


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## genaccmiller

Gamecock24 said:


> No, I’m not satisfied with spandex but that could be due to my setup being temporary. The difference between the DIY spandex screen and a ST screen is if you don’t like the ST screen you can pack it up and send it back to Amazon or sell it in the classifieds. You may be able to resell the spandex but you probably can’t return it.
> I can’t speak for the weave of the ST screens bc I haven’t seen one but it seems like you’d have to have really good eyes or be sitting really close to see the weave. I have tested a dozen different screen materials using my Optoma and every one them looked better than the spandex IMHO.
> Have you priced out what it would cost to build a DIY screen vs the ST? Is the price difference plus time and effort to make the screen worth the savings to you?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I would prefer a ready made screen.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk


----------



## jer181

Gamecock24 said:


> No, I’m not satisfied with spandex but that could be due to my setup being temporary. The difference between the DIY spandex screen and a ST screen is if you don’t like the ST screen you can pack it up and send it back to Amazon or sell it in the classifieds. You may be able to resell the spandex but you probably can’t return it.
> I can’t speak for the weave of the ST screens bc I haven’t seen one but it seems like you’d have to have really good eyes or be sitting really close to see the weave. I have tested a dozen different screen materials using my Optoma and every one them looked better than the spandex IMHO.
> Have you priced out what it would cost to build a DIY screen vs the ST? Is the price difference plus time and effort to make the screen worth the savings to you?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have a 135" AT from ST. I can't see any weave even close up (say 5ft)


----------



## MississippiMan

Gamecock24 said:


> I’m using an Optoma UHD51ALV on a spandex screen. And it still sucks the life out of the picture. It looks good sometimes but next to some real screen samples the difference is night and day. I am using the spandex in an unconventional way as a drop down screen hung from the ceiling with command hooks and some paracord putting tension on the screen from the bottom with no backing but still I know it can be better.



No backing.....? With a pourus cloth such a Spandex? And you can't understand why you have so much light lost(sucked away) though absorption.....? Obviously, because of the way you decided to install / use the Spandex you didn't bother to follow the instructions published over several years that a Black backing is required, so your evaluation is seriously flawed.



genaccmiller said:


> Yes that's my exact question. ST is affordable but I am hearing feedback on this forum that the weave pattern is shown and it will not match the quality of spandex. But your experience seems to be that you are not fully satisfied with the spandex.


Such a personal take based on incorrect usage should not influence your decision. Better to opt for accepting the many dozens of positive reviews.The issue of needing sufficient Lumen output has never been hidden from anyone, so choose the PJ you use accordingly.



jer181 said:


> I have a 135" AT from ST. I can't see any weave even close up (say 5ft)


That is wholly contradictory to a LOT of Member observations....from 10'...so either they all have extremely sharp vision or your's is very poor. Probably not the latter so something is skewered.

The ST-AT Screens are accepted as a value driven choice in a Mfg AT Screen, but their known caveats have been well documented. As such their use remains a personal choice.


----------



## Gamecock24

MississippiMan said:


> No backing.....? With a pourus cloth such a Spandex? And you can't understand why you have so much light lost(sucked away) though absorption.....? Obviously, because of the way you decided to install / use the Spandex you didn't bother to follow the instructions published over several years that a Black backing is required, so your evaluation is seriously flawed.



Fake news! You quoted me and no where in my quote did I say I don’t understand why my screen sucks. You missed the part about spandex being a temporary screen for me. So No, I did not bother to read the gospel of DIY spandex screens. Someone mentioned using the projector I have with a screen material I’m using so I responded letting him know my experience. I even went on to explain how I was using it, knowing that’s not the proper way. However the spandex has served its purpose for me by allowing me the flexibility to put up the screen and take it down when not in use since I have been using it like a retractable screen in front of my TV. Hopefully after next week when my SI Solo screen comes in I won’t have to fool with the spandex anymore. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## MississippiMan

Gamecock24 said:


> Fake news! You quoted me and no where in my quote did I say I don’t understand why my screen sucks. You missed the part about spandex being a temporary screen for me. So No, I did not bother to read the gospel of DIY spandex screens. Someone mentioned using the projector I have with a screen material I’m using so I responded letting him know my experience. I even went on to explain how I was using it, knowing that’s not the proper way. However the spandex has served its purpose for me by allowing me the flexibility to put up the screen and take it down when not in use since I have been using it like a retractable screen in front of my TV. Hopefully after next week when my SI Solo screen comes in I won’t have to fool with the spandex anymore.


No Fake News here!

You clearly stated your performance was substandard....supposedly qualifying as to why. You went on to say that " spandex can be a great temporary screen until you can get a quality screen but I wouldn’t use it for a permanent solution". Hard to read that anyway but saying Spandex is only a "make do". But that first posting wasn't enough.......


Your last post (6th back.. https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-56.html#post58114106 ...I won't quote it...) went further down the road of disallowing the Spandex any respect....it would seem that your trying really hard to justify your expenditure in a SI product....which is entirely understandable considering what you were living with and what you've now laid out.


Decidedly slanted "IMHOs" do a very good alternative solution no justice at all...and it's all the worse when those opinions are based upon incorrect or improper use....even when such is acknowledged.


----------



## Gamecock24

MississippiMan said:


> No Fake News here!
> 
> You clearly stated your performance was substandard....supposedly qualifying as to why. You went on to say that " spandex can be a great temporary screen until you can get a quality screen but I wouldn’t use it for a permanent solution". Hard to read that anyway but saying Spandex is only a "make do". But that first posting wasn't enough.......
> 
> 
> Your last post (6th back.. https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-56.html#post58114106 ...I won't quote it...) went further down the road of disallowing the Spandex any respect....it would seem that your trying really hard to justify your expenditure in a SI product....which is entirely understandable considering what you were living with and what you've now laid out.
> 
> 
> Decidedly slanted "IMHOs" do a very good alternative solution no justice at all...and it's all the worse when those opinions are based upon incorrect or improper use....even when such is acknowledged.




I understand where you are coming from. You don’t want me discouraging someone from using spandex as a viable AT screen option based off my experience using it the way I have. Using a spandex as a PJ screen works and rattle can spray paint can paint a car also but if not done both will look like *****. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jer181

MississippiMan said:


> No backing.....? With a pourus cloth such a Spandex? And you can't understand why you have so much light lost(sucked away) though absorption.....? Obviously, because of the way you decided to install / use the Spandex you didn't bother to follow the instructions published over several years that a Black backing is required, so your evaluation is seriously flawed.
> 
> 
> 
> Such a personal take based on incorrect usage should not influence your decision. Better to opt for accepting the many dozens of positive reviews.The issue of needing sufficient Lumen output has never been hidden from anyone, so choose the PJ you use accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> That is wholly contradictory to a LOT of Member observations....from 10'...so either they all have extremely sharp vision or your's is very poor. Probably not the latter so something is skewered.
> 
> The ST-AT Screens are accepted as a value driven choice in a Mfg AT Screen, but their known caveats have been well documented. As such their use remains a personal choice.


The first screen that they sent me, sure. (it was sent back as it had ripples all in it) The second screen however was a new cotton blend with almost no texture that you can see up close. I was told they were testing it, I have never seen it on their website.


----------



## MississippiMan

jer181 said:


> The first screen that they sent me, sure. (it was sent back as it had ripples all in it) The second screen however was a new cotton blend with almost no texture that you can see up close. I was told they were testing it, I have never seen it on their website.


Now that sounds pretty interesting. ST has always striven to get to the next level based on feedback....something I noted all the way back in 2010.

When they switched to a smoother vinyl material, their perceived Image quality took a big step forward....and Hey....they did that before the advent of 4K just to make the 1080p's look smoother. I chuckle to think how Elite held fast to their textured surface on the VMax series....just to maintain a degree of gain slightly higher than 1.0 and still suppress loss of viewing cone issues. 

I haven't really been too concerned with gain....I mean, the V6 material is clearly adjudged to be among the finest AT experience around, and it is just 0.85 gain vs 0.7 gain for Spandex. Both specifically require....nay, demand adequate Lumen be delivered, especially if the Screen size goes up beyond 110" diagonal in any format. Once one gets up to there it's clear that there are only a select few 4K PJs that can muster up enough to come up to par when HDR is being employed. (2600+> "HTG" Lumen) Before HDR, it was 3D that was the hard application to satisfy. 

It's not hard for anyone to see how HDR's need for higher gain Screens has driven many to deal with a lot of image quality issues. Graininess....loss of Viewing Cone width....even overt color pushes.

There has never been a time when the need for Lumen output relative to screen size wasn't made clear to any wannabee Spandex adopter "beforehand"....if they simply asked first. The other major attributes...virtually a lack of discernible weave along with low buy-in price simply nailed the lid shut for many by virtue of most all other choices having either some nasty Screen artifacts or significantly higher cost...or both.

One can be certain that even if any new generation ST-AT screens prove to be real performers at a lower price point, there will still be naysayers. And brook no mistake, let the newer ST-AT screens get to a point where they are only 2x as expensive as a comparable DIY Spandex Screen and I will be advocating their use for a much larger cross section of Members. I embraced ST screens as a affordable Mfg alternative to DIY'ing years ago.....despite my being a dedicated DIY advocate. 



Somethings just cannot go ignored if one is to maintain any degree of veracity in their given advice.


----------



## Nightwing-DG

I'm thinking about getting *this* screen and I plan to put my speakers behind the screen and just wondering how much the White Material affects the acoustics or if it's noticeable at all. I know they have the Woven Acoustic Material but it's a lot more expensive.


----------



## Mocs123

Nightwing-DG said:


> I'm thinking about getting *this* screen and I plan to put my speakers behind the screen and just wondering how much the White Material affects the acoustics or if it's noticeable at all. I know they have the Woven Acoustic Material but it's a lot more expensive.



I don't think you will be happy with speakers behind a non acoustically transparent screen. I recommend you either pony up for the AT screen, or go the DIY spandex route.


----------



## MississippiMan

Nightwing-DG said:


> I'm thinking about getting *this* screen and I plan to put my speakers behind the screen and just wondering how much the White Material affects the acoustics or if it's noticeable at all. I know they have the Woven Acoustic Material but it's a lot more expensive.





Mocs123 said:


> I don't think you will be happy with speakers behind a non acoustically transparent screen. I recommend you either pony up for the AT screen, or go the DIY spandex route.


*^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ *fur shur!



Trying to play Audio through a flexible but opaque/solid vinyl sheeting would be akin to throwing the material over the speaker like a Blanket.


What Projector are you using?


Throw distance?




Listen....the $150 uptick to Acoustic Material on a Silver Ticket avoids Frame Building....and stretching out / stapling down two layers of White & Black Spandex. Ante up!


----------



## Nightwing-DG

Mocs123 said:


> I don't think you will be happy with speakers behind a non acoustically transparent screen. I recommend you either pony up for the AT screen, or go the DIY spandex route.


I guess I'm gonna have to get it. I might just use the wall until there is a sale or something.



MississippiMan said:


> *^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ *fur shur!
> 
> 
> Trying to play Audio through a flexible but opaque/solid vinyl sheeting would be akin to throwing the material over the speaker like a Blanket.
> 
> 
> What Projector are you using?
> 
> 
> Throw distance?
> 
> 
> Listen....the $150 uptick to Acoustic Material on a Silver Ticket avoids Frame Building....and stretching out / stapling down two layers of White & Black Spandex. Ante up!


I'll be getting the Epson 5040UB. Not exactly sure on throw distance yet but will be anywhere from 10' to 15' or so. This is my first projector so I'm learning as I go along.


----------



## Mocs123

Make sure you use the projector calculator to make sure a 10' throw distance will work if you haven't already - that's pretty close to the screen. 



If you are not against some DIY work you really ought to check out the spandex option if you are on a really tight budget. You might also check and see what sizes Silver Ticket has in their AT in open box section.


----------



## Nightwing-DG

Mocs123 said:


> Make sure you use the projector calculator to make sure a 10' throw distance will work if you haven't already - that's pretty close to the screen.
> 
> 
> 
> If you are not against some DIY work you really ought to check out the spandex option if you are on a really tight budget. You might also check and see what sizes Silver Ticket has in their AT in open box section.


The room is 20' long so I have room to work with.

I've never done any DIY work so I'm not sure if I'm capable.


----------



## titan ii

Nightwing-DG said:


> I'll be getting the Epson 5040UB. Not exactly sure on throw distance yet but will be anywhere from 10' to 15' or so. This is my first projector so I'm learning as I go along.


You can download the manual on the Epson website. The throw distances are on pages 27-29.


----------



## MississippiMan

Nightwing-DG said:


> The room is 20' long so I have room to work with.
> 
> I've never done any DIY work so I'm not sure if I'm capable.





@*Nightwing-DG* ,


With the 5040ub, a 110" diagonal screen (...like you linked to....) can be best hit with your Projector set at 11'-3" *minimum* The closest throw possible would be 10'- 10" and you never want to place a projector so that it has no zoom adjustment left.


At the prescribed Throw you could still achieve a Foot Lambert value of 47 fl on a AT material like Spandex. That would make for a very spectacular image!



As far as worrying about having applicable DIY skills....don't worry. Over on DIY Screens we teach the rankest Noobs how to make 'em up. So no matter how "rank" you are  we'd have your back.


----------



## Nightwing-DG

MississippiMan said:


> @*Nightwing-DG* ,
> 
> 
> With the 5040ub, a 110" diagonal screen (...like you linked to....) can be best hit with your Projector set at 11'-3" *minimum* The closest throw possible would be 10'- 10" and you never want to place a projector so that it has no zoom adjustment left.
> 
> 
> At the prescribed Throw you could still achieve a Foot Lambert value of 47 fl on a AT material like Spandex. That would make for a very spectacular image!
> 
> 
> 
> As far as worrying about having applicable DIY skills....don't worry. Over on DIY Screens we teach the rankest Noobs how to make 'em up. So no matter how "rank" you are  we'd have your back.


Thanks! I will take a look at the DIY section. Will a flat paint on the wall work just as good as a screen?


----------



## MississippiMan

Nightwing-DG said:


> Thanks! I will take a look at the DIY section. Will a flat paint on the wall work just as good as a screen?



Ask that question over on DIY Screens. A honest answer on here would be inflammatory......


----------



## Solarium

I’m debating the 135” fixed frame between the white material, HC grey, or grey material. Using with a JVC RS540 (X790R).

This will be used in a non-light controlled living room setting, with a blackout curtain to separate it from the kitchen. Lots of times the viewing will be done from the kitchen though, during broad daylight. The room borders the backyard, and will have blinds to block out the sunlight. However, the room will never be truly dark. Even at night, if there’s no ambient light, there’s quite a bit of reflection from the white painted walls and the hardwood floors and some marble material.

There’s no way to make this a dedicated HT room, so I’m trying to make the best of it by getting a good screen. I’m not trying to spend more than $1k on a screen either, and ST is my best bet.

Maintaining the brightness factor during the day time, while having good black levels at night, will be my main goal.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Solarium said:


> I’m debating the 135” fixed frame between the white material, HC grey, or grey material. Using with a JVC RS540 (X790R).
> 
> This will be used in a non-light controlled living room setting, with a blackout curtain to separate it from the kitchen. Lots of times the viewing will be done from the kitchen though, during broad daylight. The room borders the backyard, and will have blinds to block out the sunlight. However, the room will never be truly dark. Even at night, if there’s no ambient light, there’s quite a bit of reflection from the white painted walls and the hardwood floors and some marble material.
> 
> There’s no way to make this a dedicated HT room, so I’m trying to make the best of it by getting a good screen. I’m not trying to spend more than $1k on a screen either, and ST is my best bet.
> 
> Maintaining the brightness factor during the day time, while having good black levels at night, will be my main goal.


Same question, same answer.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...790-x7900-owners-thread-394.html#post58181932

A matte grey screen won't do much for ambient lights.


----------



## Laserfan

Not to pile-on, but I have the HC screen and any light will wash-out the picture.

Presumably you have a PJ already but it seems to me your room would do best with a flat panel display.


----------



## Solarium

Dominic Chan said:


> Same question, same answer.
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...790-x7900-owners-thread-394.html#post58181932
> 
> A matte grey screen won't do much for ambient lights.


I was going to get the white material version, but someone on the JVC thread told me to consider the HC grey.



Laserfan said:


> Not to pile-on, but I have the HC screen and any light will wash-out the picture.
> 
> Presumably you have a PJ already but it seems to me your room would do best with a flat panel display.


I've been using a PJ on a 100 display (ES Cinewhite) for many years. Will be upgrading to a 135" hence now the consideration of a better anti ambient light material. I don't need to have perfect blacks levels and colors in the daylight, just something to help a bit.

I have already tested the ES Cinegrey 3D and 5D and did not find them to be significantly better than the plain white Cinewhite.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Solarium said:


> I have already tested the ES Cinegrey 3D and 5D and did not find them to be significantly better than the plain white Cinewhite.


To benefit from ALR screens (such as the Cinegrey 3D and 5D) the projector needs to be amounted in such a position that you get the maximum brightness at your seating position. At other angles they won’t provide much benefit.


----------



## Solarium

I moved the projector to shoot to the middle of my current screen, and it did make a difference. I like the Elite Screens Cinegrey 3D, will the ST HC Grey be like it? I can’t find sample packs from ST for some reason.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Solarium said:


> I moved the projector to shoot to the middle of my current screen, and it did make a difference. I like the Elite Screens Cinegrey 3D, will the ST HC Grey be like it? I can’t find sample packs from ST for some reason.


Here’s the link to the sample pack:
https://www.silverticketproducts.com/products/material-samples


----------



## Solarium

Dominic Chan said:


> Here’s the link to the sample pack:
> https://www.silverticketproducts.com/products/material-samples


Sweet, they were out of stock but emailed them and ordered 2 sample packs to make the panels a bit larger


----------



## Patrick Flaherty

matt21484 said:


> Here is the screen in the day and a few freeze frames from tonight. Silver ticket 106" grey screen from a Epson 2030


How do you have what looks to be very minimal reflection with those white walls and ceiling?


----------



## matt21484

Patrick Flaherty said:


> How do you have what looks to be very minimal reflection with those white walls and ceiling?




It’s the grey screen which helps. Plus the way I focused on the bright image , the camera darkened the rest of the room a bit. I don’t see any reflections on the cream colored walls, but I do see some on the ceiling in brighter scenes. Overall, I’m real happy with the setup. I’ve been itching to upgrade to a 4K PJ, but I keep telling myself to wait for the native 4K ones to come down in the ~$1K price point


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Patrick Flaherty

matt21484 said:


> It’s the grey screen which helps. Plus the way I focused on the bright image , the camera darkened the rest of the room a bit. I don’t see any reflections on the cream colored walls, but I do see some on the ceiling in brighter scenes. Overall, I’m real happy with the setup. I’ve been itching to upgrade to a 4K PJ, but I keep telling myself to wait for the native 4K ones to come down in the ~$1K price point
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


youre happy with the gray screen? did you try/compare to the white before you bought the gray?


----------



## matt21484

Patrick Flaherty said:


> youre happy with the gray screen? did you try/compare to the white before you bought the gray?




Yeah, I worked from home when I set it up and was watching a lot of content with high ambient light. I’m sure a white screen would be better, but it still looks great to me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Patrick Flaherty

matt21484 said:


> Yeah, I worked from home when I set it up and was watching a lot of content with high ambient light. I’m sure a white screen would be better, but it still looks great to me.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ive been scrambling to figure out this whole home theater and keep hearing the light walls will reflect and i have seen some pictures where this is the case. You have me excited in a way that possibly a gray or ambient light screen could do me some good. The issue with the SilverTicket gray vs white is double the price... I wont have high or really any ambient light (very little tbh) however I worry about surround wall reflections off ceiling and walls.


----------



## Dave in Green

Patrick Flaherty said:


> Ive been scrambling to figure out this whole home theater and keep hearing the light walls will reflect and i have seen some pictures where this is the case. You have me excited in a way that possibly a gray or ambient light screen could do me some good. The issue with the SilverTicket gray vs white is double the price... I wont have high or really any ambient light (very little tbh) however I worry about surround wall reflections off ceiling and walls.


If you have light-colored walls, before buying a screen it's often suggested to spend some time experimenting with a projector image on one of those light-colored walls to get an idea of what light from the image reflected off the other walls and back onto the image does to the image quality. There are in fact many people enjoying video projection on a white screen with light-colored walls. Of course dark-colored walls are preferred when viewing home video as they are in a commercial movie theater. But some people are way more sensitive to this than others so don't automatically assume you will be as sensitive as some folks giving you advice. Your own eyes are always the best judge of what works for you.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Patrick Flaherty said:


> The issue with the SilverTicket gray vs white is double the price.


The difference in cost is minimal between matte white and matte grey - $250 vs $300, taking 120” as an example. It’s the High Contrast Grey that is significantly more expensive ($450).


----------



## Patrick Flaherty

Dominic Chan said:


> The difference in cost is minimal between matte white and matte grey - $250 vs $300, taking 120” as an example. It’s the High Contrast Grey that is significantly more expensive ($450).


Yes, I apologize i meant white vs high contrast.


----------



## MississippiMan

Patrick Flaherty said:


> How do you have what looks to be very minimal reflection with those white walls and ceiling?





matt21484 said:


> It’s the grey screen which helps. Plus the way I focused on the bright image , the camera darkened the rest of the room a bit. I don’t see any reflections on the cream colored walls, but I do see some on the ceiling in brighter scenes. Overall, I’m real happy with the setup. I’ve been itching to upgrade to a 4K PJ, but I keep telling myself to wait for the native 4K ones to come down in the ~$1K price point



The only way a Grey screen helps prevent reflections would be through attenuating the light output of the Screen, therein reducing the intensity of the light reaching the adjoining surfaces. Your confusing the retention of Black levels with the reflection index of the room.




Patrick Flaherty said:


> youre happy with the gray screen? did you try/compare to the white before you bought the gray?



Satisfaction between a Grey or White screen almost always revolves around first; how much...or how little the shade / depth of Grey attenuates the intensity of the projected colors and the brightness / correctness of the Whites....and 2nd; how much lumen output is available to compensate for attenuation related losses.


The reason (primary) that a Grey Screen is usually considered is to offset ambient light, either truly "ambient" as existing without the projected light figured in, or "reflected ambient light" off adjoining walls. Or quite often both. If one has light colored walls, and worse...light or white colored ceilings, those elements are what usually require a Grey to counteract the deleterious effects of such reflections on on-screen contrast and overall image dynamics.





matt21484 said:


> Yeah, I worked from home when I set it up and was watching a lot of content with high ambient light. I’m sure a white screen would be better, but it still looks great to me.



That last would be a wrongful assumption. If you have High levels of ambient light, watching content on any white screen except one that was either extremely angular or retro reflective would be very detrimental to your viewing satisfaction. Even then...if the highest source of ambient light was coming from the opposite side of the room from the Screen...almost "directed ambient" if you will, then even a Retro Reflective screen would have issues. The real trade-off being that many ALR Screens depend primarily of rather sharply angled "Angular Reflective" properties to keep projected light beaming to the seating position, and that will greatly reduce the effect from side-ways and rearward oriented light intrusion.. But nothing can really take it all in stride except a very Dark Grey, sub-.0 gain surface being hit with a preponderance of Lumen. Usually to the point of near redundancy.




Patrick Flaherty said:


> Yes, I apologize i meant white vs high contrast.



High Contrast Screens are usually designated as such by virtue that they can improve the perception of having a wider gulf between the darkest and lightest elements...and the do this by having a surface that is both Grey in shade as well as having a positive Gain index....usually at least 1.2 - 1.3


The truth being you don't see much of any referencing toward such applications anymore, as much if not indeed most of the emphasis is on ALR performance.


Nothing is better than addressing every possible issue that can detract from image quality...and that covers a lot of ground. PJ performance, room surfaces, lighting, screen design....and addressing all those issues in the best, most available and possible methods is the only way to reach a point of viewing nirvana.


Now there ARE viable solutions available...and some get more varied a job accomplished that others. Both Mfg and DIY applications exist, but unless you either ask for advice / suggestions, or find them yourself by doing a capricious amount of research.


Easier to ask......
But don't expect to find such varied and effective performance in a Silver Ticket product...they will be more specifically directed. Same applies to almost all Mfg products. Only in the DIY realm have we combined the best attributes together to give a applicable blending of performance...because in DIY we don't answer to the Marketing powers-that-be. We want it all in one package. !!!


----------



## Patrick Flaherty

MississippiMan said:


> But don't expect to find such varied and effective performance in a Silver Ticket product...they will be more specifically directed. Same applies to almost all Mfg products. Only in the DIY realm have we combined the best attributes together to give a applicable blending of performance...because in DIY we don't answer to the Marketing powers-that-be. We want it all in one package. !!!


Is there a DIY section or do you have some reference for me? I would not be opposed to a DIY screen if it wasn't too difficult for someone who is 'average' in DIY projects. I feel the SilverTicket 120" screen for $250 could probably be done for half the cost, but not look as nice. I would be open to DIY recommendations as far as previous threads or suggestions on high quality fabric as well.


----------



## ckronengold

*Worth upgrading?*

Thinking about making a snap decision -- I have a calibrator coming next Thursday. 

I'm in the middle of "breaking in" my Epson 5050. I've got about 50 hours on it, and trying to get as close to 100 as possible before the calibration. 

Projector is 14'6" from the screen. Seating is 11' from the screen. Side walls are 5-8' away from edge of screen. 

My current screen is a 110" 16:9 Silver Ticket grey screen. Been very happy with it, to be honest. My setup is in the basement, with 100% light control. I got the grey screen to help with contrast and color for watching movies if I kept a bit of light on for my kids. But now I'm feeling selfish, and any loss of color or contrast while watching Shrek for the 83rd time is sorta their problem. 

Trying to maximize my HDR performance (and knowing I give up a significant amount of brightness to get the full P3 color spectrum with the projector's Cinema filters), I'm thinking about switching over to a 113" 2.35:1 white screen, for the increased gain. 

Data and specs are all well and good, but would I be looking at any meaningful difference? 

Fortunately the ST screens are plenty affordable, and thanks to some shipping issues with my current screen, I've got the frame and a second screen that is still in the box. So shouldn't be a problem to sell. 

But I need to make up my mind pretty quickly. Can't have a calibrator come and then switch from grey to white. 

Here's some pics from Aquaman 4k disc and Planet Earth 2 HDR 4k streaming from Netflix. Last week I painted the ceiling to help with the reflections. Its Anchors Away from Sherwin Williams.


----------



## 4fit?

ckronengold said:


> .... Last week I painted the ceiling to help with the reflections. Its Anchors Away from Sherwin Williams.


Can't provide any input on the screen selection as I only have experience with the acoustically transparent fabric. But just wanted to say nice job on the ceiling paint job. I'm planning to paint my room soon and nervous as hell about the ceiling showing roller marks (planning on SW Tricorn). So nervous in fact that I've considered hiring someone to paint the room, which I have never done before. 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


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## David98

Hey!

I Will be in a completly light controled room with dark walls and roof. New to projectors and screens but thinking of the Epson 5040ub and a 2.35:1 screen. The room is 11.8feet Wide and about 20Feet Long. First row Will be around 9-10feet. How would a silver ticket acosutic woven 140" be from that distance?(BIG)

Onlyo 4k movies (pixel Shift but Still) 

Would a Elite screen acosutic transparent be better? Thats My max budget currently


----------



## MississippiMan

David98 said:


> Hey!
> 
> I Will be in a completly light controled room with dark walls and roof. New to projectors and screens but thinking of the Epson 5040ub and a 2.35:1 screen. The room is 11.8feet Wide and about 20Feet Long. First row Will be around 9-10feet. How would a silver ticket acosutic woven 140" be from that distance?(BIG)
> 
> Onlyo 4k movies (pixel Shift but Still)
> 
> Would a Elite screen acosutic transparent be better? Thats My max budget currently


With either screen choice, it will be all about your own visual acuity.

A 140" 2.39:1 screen is 129" wide. So almost 11' essentially. Sitting at 10' distance puts you at less than a 1:1 ratio Screen width to viewing distance, and that is by most standards too close to NOT see the Weave in a inexpensive AT Screen in lighter colored areas (Pastels and Whites) ...or on almost any expensive AT screen for that matter. So if your going to crowd a screen that close (...and 10' away from 11' wide on a 2.39:1 screen is actually considered outside the limits...) and you want a clear looking surface, your choices are very limited. Price restraints? Even more limited.

You may well be best advised, being on a budget as you are, to consider Spandex on a DIY Frame. Among _*ALL*_ other AT materials, only the V6 Dream Screen material has anything close to as fine a weave, but it is much more expensive than your budget allows at 140" diagonal. The same applies to AT sonic performance. Spandex & V6 are neck & neck. And again, if price is paramount...Spandex wins the prize.

So your own ability or willingness to consider a DIY Project will govern your choice.

Listed below are your least expensive choices.

Carl's Place sells a DIY oriented AT Fabric: https://www.carlofet.com/projector-screen-material/sheerweave-projector-screen-material.html
Approx. *$180.00* @ 140" diag (not including cost of Frame)

Double Layered Milliskin Spandex (White over Black)
https://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/795
https://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/796 

3.5 Yards of ea. * $63.00* (not including cost of Frame)

Not even going to list the Dreamscreen V6 because the size you want would cost over $1K.

Be advised that among all the choices, your screen size and close in viewing are the limiting factors. As stated previously, that doesn't mean "you can't", only that there are choices you probably should...and should not consider.


----------



## David98

Thanks for the great responsen! Will move in october so will se about THE screen, maybe a 120" Will be more than enogh! Or even move back the first row!


----------



## David98

And about the budget, i have 1.5k$ budget for screen, but want the most bang for the Buck, if there is not much diffrence in a 500$ screen vs a 1500$ screen i Will pick the 500$ One! As i Said, new to this!


----------



## genaccmiller

MississippiMan said:


> With either screen choice, it will be all about your own visual acuity.
> 
> A 140" 2.39:1 screen is 129" wide. So almost 11' essentially. Sitting at 10' distance puts you at less than a 1:1 ratio Screen width to viewing distance, and that is by most standards too close to NOT see the Weave in a inexpensive AT Screen in lighter colored areas (Pastels and Whites) ...or on almost any expensive AT screen for that matter. So if your going to crowd a screen that close (...and 10' away from 11' wide on a 2.39:1 screen is actually considered outside the limits...) and you want a clear looking surface, your choices are very limited. Price restraints? Even more limited.
> 
> You may well be best advised, being on a budget as you are, to consider Spandex on a DIY Frame. Among _*ALL*_ other AT materials, only the V6 Dream Screen material has anything close to as fine a weave, but it is much more expensive than your budget allows at 140" diagonal. The same applies to AT sonic performance. Spandex & V6 are neck & neck. And again, if price is paramount...Spandex wins the prize.
> 
> So your own ability or willingness to consider a DIY Project will govern your choice.
> 
> Listed below are your least expensive choices.
> 
> Carl's Place sells a DIY oriented AT Fabric: https://www.carlofet.com/projector-screen-material/sheerweave-projector-screen-material.html
> Approx. *$180.00* @ 140" diag (not including cost of Frame)
> 
> Double Layered Milliskin Spandex (White over Black)
> https://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/795
> https://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/796
> 
> 3.5 Yards of ea. * $63.00* (not including cost of Frame)
> 
> Not even going to list the Dreamscreen V6 because the size you want would cost over $1K.
> 
> Be advised that among all the choices, your screen size and close in viewing are the limiting factors. As stated previously, that doesn't mean "you can't", only that there are choices you probably should...and should not consider.


Hello - the specs seem to be all over the place online. What is the minimum viewing distance you would recommend for the following screen sizes?

1. 110 inch
2. 120 inch
3. 135 inch

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk


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## MississippiMan

The reasons for the wide disparity are:


Many still follow the Guidelines that were in effect 20 yrs+ ago, and that are still perpetrated by some large concerns such as THX. They are outdated.
When figures are offered up by individuals, they can be based upon several factors. Screen Type - PJ Resolution - Individual preferences - and more.
 See Highlighted answers below. All are based on E-Shift 4K or Native 4K imagery and normal visual acuity. Got Lasic vision? add 3'+ to all figures (minimum) Of course some might want to experience a "IMAX-like" environment, while others can't stand anything closer than 1.5:1....or more.





genaccmiller said:


> Hello - the specs seem to be all over the place online. What is the minimum viewing distance you would recommend for the following screen sizes?
> 
> 1. 110 inch * 8'*
> 2. 120 inch * 9'*
> 3. 135 inch *10.5'*


----------



## ereed

genaccmiller said:


> Hello - the specs seem to be all over the place online. What is the minimum viewing distance you would recommend for the following screen sizes?
> 
> 1. 110 inch
> 2. 120 inch
> 3. 135 inch
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk





MississippiMan said:


> The reasons for the wide disparity are:
> 
> 
> Many still follow the Guidelines that were in effect 20 yrs+ ago, and that are still perpetrated by some large concerns such as THX. They are outdated.
> When figures are offered up by individuals, they can be based upon several factors. Screen Type - PJ Resolution - Individual preferences - and more.
> See Highlighted answers below. All are based on E-Shift 4K or Native 4K imagery and normal visual acuity. Got Lasic vision? add 3'+ to all figures (minimum) Of course some might want to experience a "IMAX-like" environment, while others can't stand anything closer than 1.5:1....or more.


Is this based on the screen width or diagonal?


----------



## genaccmiller

ereed said:


> Is this based on the screen width or diagonal?


Diagonal

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## MississippiMan

ereed said:


> Is this based on the screen width or diagonal?





genaccmiller said:


> Diagonal



That's right.


----------



## avsBuddy

ckronengold said:


> My current screen is a 110" 16:9 Silver Ticket grey screen. Been very happy with it, to be honest. My setup is in the basement, with 100% light control. I got the grey screen to help with contrast and color for watching movies if I kept a bit of light on for my kids. But now I'm feeling selfish, and any loss of color or contrast while watching Shrek for the 83rd time is sorta their problem.
> 
> Trying to maximize my HDR performance (and knowing I give up a significant amount of brightness to get the full P3 color spectrum with the projector's Cinema filters), I'm thinking about switching over to a 113" 2.35:1 white screen, for the increased gain.


Making the same type of decision. Which screen did you settle on?


----------



## Dominic Chan

avsBuddy said:


> Making the same type of decision. Which screen did you settle on?


For a light controlled room their best material is the 1.3 gain raw material.

https://www.silverticketproducts.com/products/str-62wmaterial


----------



## ckronengold

avsBuddy said:


> Making the same type of decision. Which screen did you settle on?


Well, let me tell you what I did, and what I should have done. 

I kept the grey 110" screen. paralysis by analysis. didn't pull the trigger. too many moving parts, and figured I could always make the change later if I wanted to. (spoiler alert: I want to). 

I waited to get my projector broken in and calibrated, and thats where I found out that I really should have upgraded to white. After a full calibration, we weren't able to use my Epson 5050's Digital Cinema filters without losing too much brightness for HDR and the full P3 spectrum. 

In fairness, my picture looks great and I'm not disappointed in the least. Its one of those situations where I know that I'm not using the superior color filters, and that bothers me, but I'd never know by looking at the calibrated image. 

So, at some point in the near future (i have a number of basement issues that need to be addressed before I get to "play" with things again), I'll be switching to something with 1.2-1.3 gain, and then get recalibrated. 

If you have light control, go with white. Full stop.


----------



## ckronengold

Dominic Chan said:


> For a light controlled room their best material is the 1.3 gain raw material.
> 
> https://www.silverticketproducts.com/products/str-62wmaterial


I don't see any screens made with that material. only the raw material for a DIY.


----------



## Dominic Chan

ckronengold said:


> I don't see any screens made with that material. only the raw material for a DIY.


That is correct.


----------



## andyng

I emailed them last night asking if they can sell the material for me to swap in my current ST and this is what they said.
Currently we do not offer that material with our frames. Management has been preparing to, but at this point does not allow us to sell it for the frames. You can purchase it, without special machines it may be difficult for you to make it.


----------



## Dominic Chan

andyng said:


> You can purchase it, without special machines it may be difficult for you to make it.


I have done it and it’s not that hard. You just need to Cut it to size and make the “pockets”.


----------



## andyng

Dominic Chan said:


> I have done it and it’s not that hard. You just need to Cut it to size and make the “pockets”.


Yes, I don't have any tool to make the pockets.
looking at the price, it may be worth a try since it's much cheaper to get a 1.3 gain screen instead of throwing away a good frame.
I'm looking to go from 106" to around 118-120" and the increase is not a big jump.


----------



## Dominic Chan

andyng said:


> Yes, I don't have any tool to make the pockets.
> looking at the price, it may be worth a try since it's much cheaper to get a 1.3 gain screen instead of throwing away a good frame.
> I'm looking to go from 106" to around 118-120" and the increase is not a big jump.


I just used the LePage Heavy Duty Contact Cement. No tools.


----------



## avsBuddy

What’s the difference between ST White that they sell framed and their Raw material?

Regarding poster above deciding on white screen vs gray, I would say that I definitely would take White screen over conventional Gray. I’ve compared versions of Gray from ST and Seymour before coming to that conclusion. 

However, Seymour Matinee Wide ALR material is a completely different animal. I like it. So I’m currently deciding between it, Glacier White and ST White.


----------



## Dominic Chan

avsBuddy said:


> What’s the difference between ST White that they sell framed and their Raw material?


The raw material has 1.3 gain (vs 1.1). It has a very smooth texture. I don't understand why they don't use it in any of their screens.


----------



## avsBuddy

Interesting. I wonder if they don’t want to step on toes of high end manufacturers for whatever reason. Maybe they have an "understanding" between them. 
More likely though, it's a business decision for Silver Ticket. They make money by selling high volume while making only tiny profit on each screen. It might be cost prohibitive for them to sell two types of White screens and they want to keep their product line simple and priced similar for the same screen size.


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## ijansch

I couldn’t find an official owners thread but this seems to be a suitable spot. My silver ticket screen arrived yesterday. But it will take a few weeks before I can hang it as I’m still preparing the room. Would it be a problem to leave it in the box for a few weeks (would that make it harder to get it mounted without wrinkles later)?




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## ereed

ijansch said:


> I couldn’t find an official owners thread but this seems to be a suitable spot. My silver ticket screen arrived yesterday. But it will take a few weeks before I can hang it as I’m still preparing the room. Would it be a problem to leave it in the box for a few weeks (would that make it harder to get it mounted without wrinkles later)?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You can leave it in the box as long as you want. Just make sure the screen material is rolled and not folded to avoid creases.


----------



## Laserfan

ijansch said:


> I couldn’t find an official owners thread but this seems to be a suitable spot. My silver ticket screen arrived yesterday. But it will take a few weeks before I can hang it as I’m still preparing the room. Would it be a problem to leave it in the box for a few weeks (would that make it harder to get it mounted without wrinkles later)?


It was warehoused that way for who-knows-how-long so your few weeks will make no difference. Note that depending on your screen material type it is possible (no, likely) that there will be some surface anomalies even after you stretch it out and hang it, but I and others here with that experience did also see them (bubbles, in my case) disappear after some weeks on the wall.


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## MississippiMan

Dominic Chan said:


> The raw material has 1.3 gain (vs 1.1). It has a very smooth texture. I don't understand why they don't use it in any of their screens.



That is because it Hot Spots pretty badly.......so they have an abundance of it available. 



ijansch said:


> I couldn’t find an official owners thread but this seems to be a suitable spot. My silver ticket screen arrived yesterday. But it will take a few weeks before I can hang it as I’m still preparing the room. Would it be a problem to leave it in the box for a few weeks (would that make it harder to get it mounted without wrinkles later)?





ereed said:


> You can leave it in the box as long as you want. Just make sure the screen material is rolled and not folded to avoid creases.


Larger sizes (10'+ wide) can come with the material Folded in a separate Box.....unless the Vendor makes arrangements with a Common Carrier Line that will accept out-sized Cartons. Silver Ticket ain't one of them.

ST screens that come from ST...not a 3rd party Amazon Vendor....all come with the material on a roll if the Screen is under 10' wide.

The only concern of leaving it in the Carton for an extended time is that the material can slide down and bunch at one end, depending on how it was stored/transported. Obviously a 10' roll is seldom stored or transported upright....but 8' footers and smaller...it happens quite frequently. Space in a truck can be at a premium, and the Carrier doesn't always consider the consequences if the package isn't marked with a Arrow and a warning.

So it pays to open the Box and give it a eyeball check....then close it up and store the box flat.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Dominic Chan said:


> The raw material has 1.3 gain (vs 1.1). It has a very smooth texture. I don't understand why they don't use it in any of their screens.





MississippiMan said:


> That is because it Hot Spots pretty badly.......so they have an abundance of it available.


Can't speak for them as the reason why, but the 1.3 gain white screen material has no discernible hot spots, unlike their 1.5 gain silver material which has terrible hot spots and blotches. And yet they sell complete screens with the 1.5 gain silver material, but not the 1.3 gain white material.

And I don't follow the logic that "an abundance" will lead to the decision not to use it in a finished screen.

I will post some sample images later today. EDIT: Done. See post 1724 below.


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## Laserfan

MississippiMan said:


> That is because it Hot Spots pretty badly.......so they have an abundance of it available.


Why then when I look it up on their website do they say it is sold out?

https://www.silverticketproducts.com/collections/all/category_raw-screen-material


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## Dominic Chan

*Hot Spots pretty badly???*



MississippiMan said:


> That is because it Hot Spots pretty badly.......


Here are some pictures taken off the screen (Silver Ticket 1.3 gain matte white raw material). Can't say I notice _any _hot spotting. Even the one taken at an angle shows no visible loss in brightness, unlike screens that hot spot.


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## Dominic Chan

Laserfan said:


> Why then when I look it up on their website do they say it is sold out?


The website does not always show the up-to-date inventory. You can contact them by email to see if they have any in stock.


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## genaccmiller

Folks - how does silver ticket compare to spandex? Silver ticket has a 1.1 gain compared to 0.7 for spandex. Is higher or lower better?

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## ijansch

genaccmiller said:


> Folks - how does silver ticket compare to spandex? Silver ticket has a 1.1 gain compared to 0.7 for spandex. Is higher or lower better?
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk




I recently had a similar question and got very good replies with calculators that helped me determine which gain was best for my situation. You can find those calculators and formulas here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/3096532-can-screen-too-bright.html


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## genaccmiller

ijansch said:


> I recently had a similar question and got very good replies with calculators that helped me determine which gain was best for my situation. You can find those calculators and formulas here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/3096532-can-screen-too-bright.html
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have added my question there. Essentially I posted the following.

I am not trying to hijack the thread but am having some difficulty with my situation. So input is appreciated. I have a theater room painted with black ceiling and dark red walls. The room has low ambient light with lights all switched off. I am planning on am AT screen. However since it's a small room, the distance between front of projector screen to front of the lens on an Epson 4010 will be 11.8 feet. For a 119 inch screen size the projector central calculator shows a 63fl (recommended for rooms with high ambient light) at a 2.1x zoom and 1.1 gain (silver ticket screen). If I reduce the gain to 0.7 (spandex), it shows 40fl (again recommended for rooms with a high ambient light). How should I interpret this and what are my options?

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## Dominic Chan

genaccmiller said:


> I have added my question there. Essentially I posted the following.
> 
> I am not trying to hijack the thread but am having some difficulty with my situation. So input is appreciated. I have a theater room painted with black ceiling and dark red walls. The room has low ambient light with lights all switched off. I am planning on am AT screen. However since it's a small room, the distance between front of projector screen to front of the lens on an Epson 4010 will be 11.8 feet. For a 119 inch screen size the projector central calculator shows a 63fl (recommended for rooms with high ambient light) at a 2.1x zoom and 1.1 gain (silver ticket screen). If I reduce the gain to 0.7 (spandex), it shows 40fl (again recommended for rooms with a high ambient light). How should I interpret this and what are my options?
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk


This projector calculator seems to be more realistic:
https://webprojectorcalculator.com/

They don’t have the Epson 4010, but using the 4040 the expected luminance is 34 fL. Also keep in mind the ST 1.1 gain screens measures closer to 0.9 gain, so the fL will be even lower.


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## genaccmiller

Dominic Chan said:


> This projector calculator seems to be more realistic:
> 
> https://webprojectorcalculator.com/
> 
> 
> 
> They don’t have the Epson 4010, but using the 4040 the expected luminance is 34 fL. Also keep in mind the ST 1.1 gain screens measures closer to 0.9 gain, so the fL will be even lower.


I am unable to understand the impact of fl vs gain. In the scenario I posted if I go for spandex with a 0.7 gain and 4010 am I ok?

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## Dominic Chan

genaccmiller said:


> I am unable to understand the impact of fl vs gain. In the scenario I posted if I go for spandex with a 0.7 gain and 4010 am I ok?
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk


Everything else being equal, fL is directly proportional to gain, i.e., a 1.4 gain screen will give you twice the fL of a 0.7 gain screen.


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## genaccmiller

Dominic Chan said:


> Everything else being equal, fL is directly proportional to gain, i.e., a 1.4 gain screen will give you twice the fL of a 0.7 gain screen.


Is more fl better? In my case in the choice between 63fl and 40fl on silver ticket vs spandex is there a right way to make a decision?

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## Dominic Chan

genaccmiller said:


> Is more fl better? In my case in the choice between 63fl and 40fl on silver ticket vs spandex is there a right way to make a decision?
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk


That’s not a simple question to answer. 

For non-HDR, 15 fL is considered standard in a dedicated home theatre. It’s good to have some surplus especially if your projector has a manual iris to cut down to output (and the HC4010 seems to have it). 

For HDR you need double that, but there are many other factors.


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## Luminated67

Dominic Chan said:


> For a light controlled room their best material is the 1.3 gain raw material.
> 
> https://www.silverticketproducts.com/products/str-62wmaterial


Very odd that is doesn’t have a black back coating?


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## Dominic Chan

Luminated67 said:


> Very odd that is doesn’t have a black back coating?


For solid vinyl material I don’t see a strong need for the black backing, unless there’s light coming from the back (like a window). I haven’t found any issues mounting the frame on a solid wall painted in dark colours.


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## Luminated67

Dominic Chan said:


> For solid vinyl material I don’t see a strong need for the black backing, unless there’s light coming from the back (like a window). I haven’t found any issues mounting on a solid wall painted in dark colours.


So is this material not suitable for stretching over a frame.


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## Dominic Chan

Luminated67 said:


> So is this material not suitable for stretching over a frame.


It is. I stretched the material over the frame and mounted the frame on a dark colored wall. There’s no need for a black backing.


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## ereed

With this FL talk I'm curious what mine is. I have the 16x9 120 inch white ST screen using Sony 45es projector. I use eco mode. The projector calculator shows the max FL, but I don't see where you can see diff between eco and high lamp modes? 

If anyone likes to take a jab, the lens to screen is 15.5 feet.


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## Dominic Chan

ereed said:


> With this FL talk I'm curious what mine is. I have the 16x9 120 inch white ST screen using Sony 45es projector. I use eco mode. The projector calculator shows the max FL, but I don't see where you can see diff between eco and high lamp modes?
> 
> If anyone likes to take a jab, the lens to screen is 15.5 feet.


Try the calculator I linked to in post 1729. It does include your projector (Sony VPL-HW45ES).


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## noob00224

ereed said:


> With this FL talk I'm curious what mine is. I have the 16x9 120 inch white ST screen using Sony 45es projector. I use eco mode. The projector calculator shows the max FL, but I don't see where you can see diff between eco and high lamp modes?
> 
> If anyone likes to take a jab, the lens to screen is 15.5 feet.


What are the hours on the lamp?

https://webprojectorcalculator.com/ has been recommended.
They don't have all the modes, and some of the results are with the calibrated values.

The other way to do it is manually:
1.Take the dimensions of the screen:
http://screen-size.info/ 
or
https://www.draperinc.com/projectionscreens/customsizecalculator.aspx
2.Find out the square surface:
https://www.calculatorsoup.com/calculators/construction/square-footage-calculator.php
3.Find a review with measured lumens and the effect the zoom lens on the brightness:
https://www.projectorcentral.com/sony-vpl-hw453s-projector-review.htm?page=Performance
4.Calculate how much lens zoom is used:
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Sony-VPL-HW45ES-projection-calculator-pro.htm
5.Calculate lumens loss due to lamp use.
UHP lamps loose ~25% if their brightness in the first ~500h. After that it's a linear curve to the estimated life of the lamp, which is 50% of it's original brightness.
Different lamp modes affect the lamp's hour timer depending on the brightness. For the HW45, LOW is 40% less bright than HIGH.
If the lamp was used in different modes, take this information from the projector menu and calculate an hour value that includes all modes.
6.Calculate fL for desired mode
7.Adjust for screen gain

2.An 120" 16:9 screen has 42.71 ft²
3.
_Zoom Lens Effect. When set to the telephoto end of the 1.6x zoom range, light output is curtailed by only 17% compared with the wide angle setting-a rather modest loss for a 1.6x lens. 
_4. With an 120" screen positioned at 15"5' (with the HW45) the zoom factor is x1.22 (from x1.59). 
x1.22 zoom factor is 62.71% from the total possible zoom. 
If from total zoom to no zoom the light loss is 17%, with x1.22 the light loss is 10.6% from whatever mode used (Cinema, Game, etc).
5.?
6. Cinema Film 1 on ECO is 834 lumens. After 500h it's 625.5 lumens.
625.5 divided by 42.71 ft² is 14.64fL
7.?

The result differs from the webprojectorcalculator.


Or get a luxmeter or something similar to measure lumens and divide that by the square surface of the screen.

LE: the environment also matters, the image will be perceived brighter in a treated room (wall reflections, light control), than a room with colored walls and other light sources.


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## Bigc05

I recently purchased a screen from Silver Ticket (via Amazon), and I had (still am) a horrible experience with them. They sent me a black motorized projector screen they claimed was new, but I seriously doubt it was. It had deep scratches on the top and side of the metal casing. When I picked it up for the first time, about 18 inches of the bottom of the the screen fell out and was just hanging down as if it wasn’t completely rolled up before being shipped to me. This, in turn, put SERIOUS creases in the screen material. After 10 days of going back and forth with them as to who was responsible for the item being delivered in that condition (them vs FedEx), they finally decided to refund me. But they then refused to take the screen back, thus leaving me stuck with it. Under normal circumstances most things wouldn’t be a problem to throw out, but it's not easy nor cheap/free to get rid of something that’s over 8 feet long and 50 plus pounds. So just be careful doing business with them.


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## genaccmiller

Bigc05 said:


> I recently purchased a screen from Silver Ticket (via Amazon), and I had (still am) a horrible experience with them. They sent me a black motorized projector screen they claimed was new, but I seriously doubt it was. It had deep scratches on the top and side of the metal casing. When I picked it up for the first time, about 18 inches of the bottom of the the screen fell out and was just hanging down as if it wasn’t completely rolled up before being shipped to me. This, in turn, put SERIOUS creases in the screen material. After 10 days of going back and forth with them as to who was responsible for the item being delivered in that condition (them vs FedEx), they finally decided to refund me. But they then refused to take the screen back, thus leaving me stuck with it. Under normal circumstances most things wouldn’t be a problem to throw out, but it's not easy nor cheap/free to get rid of something that’s over 8 feet long and 50 plus pounds. So just be careful doing business with them.


Aren't returns usually covered if you purchased from Amazon?

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## Bigc05

That's what I thought but Amazon refuses to take the item back as well because as they put it, "it's not their property" i.e not their problem.


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## genaccmiller

Bigc05 said:


> That's what I thought but Amazon refuses to take the item back as well because as they put it, "it's not their property" i.e not their problem.


That doesn't make sense. Did the item say free returns? If so they usually cover shipping back.

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## Bigc05

Yup, but they won't agree to pick it up even after filing an A-Z claim. Silver Ticket has been saying for the last month they are "waiting for FedEx to tell them when they can pick the item up" but won't provide a shipping label or tracking information so its just a lie. 



Again this is why I say be careful buying from Silver Ticket because if you have issues, its doesn't mean they'll actually try to fix it. I've also been a prime member for more than six years and that means less than nothing because Amazon doesn't have a policy in place to resolve issues like getting stuck with a 8' plus projector screen.


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## genaccmiller

Bigc05 said:


> Yup, but they won't agree to pick it up even after filing an A-Z claim. Silver Ticket has been saying for the last month they are "waiting for FedEx to tell them when they can pick the item up" but won't provide a shipping label or tracking information so its just a lie.
> 
> 
> 
> Again this is why I say be careful buying from Silver Ticket because if you have issues, its doesn't mean they'll actually try to fix it. I've also been a prime member for more than six years and that means less than nothing because Amazon doesn't have a policy in place to resolve issues like getting stuck with a 8' plus projector screen.


For items sold by Amazon this is the return policy. Did you buy it from a third party when the listing was available?

Return this item for free

Free returns are available for the shipping address you chose. You can return the item for any reason in new and unused condition and get a full refund: no shipping charges

Learn more about free returns.

How to return the item?

Go to your orders and start the return

Select the ship method

Ship it!



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## Bigc05

genaccmiller said:


> For items sold by Amazon this is the return policy. Did you buy it from a third party when the listing was available?
> 
> Return this item for free
> 
> Free returns are available for the shipping address you chose. You can return the item for any reason in new and unused condition and get a full refund: no shipping charges
> 
> Learn more about free returns.
> 
> How to return the item?
> 
> Go to your orders and start the return
> 
> Select the ship method
> 
> Ship it!
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk





I'm not sure where the confusion is coming from but I posted that I bought it from Silver Ticket via Amazon. I also stated that Silver Ticket won't take it back and only says that they are waiting on FedEx to pick up the item. It's been more than a month. I also said that Amazon won't resolve the issue even after filing an A-Z claim... You can list whatever you want about the policy that doesn't mean they'll adhere to it. Doing something and saying something is completely different. Thus, I am passing along the information to be weary of doing business with Silver Ticket, so that others are informed and don't get screwed over like me when making their purchasing decisions.


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## Laserfan

Bigc05 said:


> ... they are waiting on FedEx to pick up the item. It's been more than a month...


If true, then ST has a FedEx tracking number to give to you, correct? What does FedEx say about it when you contacted them?

EDIT: OK I see this is only about the return. Big deal--take it to Goodwill and ask them to either re-sell, or if not recycle it. You said it had a motor, so they will take anything electrical for recycling per their agreement with Dell Computer.


----------



## genaccmiller

Bigc05 said:


> I'm not sure where the confusion is coming from but I posted that I bought it from Silver Ticket via Amazon. I also stated that Silver Ticket won't take it back and only says that they are waiting on FedEx to pick up the item. It's been more than a month. I also said that Amazon won't resolve the issue even after filing an A-Z claim... You can list whatever you want about the policy that doesn't mean they'll adhere to it. Doing something and saying something is completely different. Thus, I am passing along the information to be weary of doing business with Silver Ticket, so that others are informed and don't get screwed over like me when making their purchasing decisions.


Oh boy.

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## genaccmiller

Deleted

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## avsBuddy

Sounds to me like Silver Ticket came through and refunded you full price. I don't know where you live, but around where I live city will pick up bulk trash for free once a month.
However, there is no point in throwing it away if it's in a good condition. Call local library or school and offer screen for free if they pick it up.


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## noob00224

How would one go about delivering a product to an area that Amazon/ST does not deliver to?
Is it possible to contact a courier service and ask them to pick it up from Amazon/ST? With the merchants prior permission.

Or can the Amazon/ST deliver it to a courier's warehouse and they would ship it over?
What kind of services exist?


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## avsBuddy

Amazon has its own drop off locations (lockers) where they deliver your item and then you pick it up. I assume you live deep in a country so have access to truck?


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## noob00224

avsBuddy said:


> Amazon has its own drop off locations (lockers) where they deliver your item and then you pick it up. I assume you live deep in a country so have access to truck?


A while ago I tried to order something from Amazon US (the merchant was not Amazon), to the EU.
Not do to being a remote area, they did not deliver because of the region.

This was more a general question, of how to get an item from one point to another if the merchant does not deliver to that country.


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## Laserfan

Very Off Topic!


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## genaccmiller

Folks - does it make sense buying the screen now or waiting for black Friday? If I buy now I could still use a credit card like Citi which offers price rewind if price drops.

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## avsBuddy

Silver Ticket is already priced very low on Amazon compared to Silver Ticket own web site. I doubt they do any Black Friday sales that are lower than Amazon. However, check their clearance section for like new items. They have some good deals that are below Amazon prices.


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## newtodirecttv

genaccmiller said:


> Folks - does it make sense buying the screen now or waiting for black Friday? If I buy now I could still use a credit card like Citi which offers price rewind if price drops.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk


FYI, Citi canceled the rewind program in Sept.


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## genaccmiller

newtodirecttv said:


> FYI, Citi canceled the rewind program in Sept.


I don't believe that's correct. See below.

https://www.citipricerewind.com/faq#faq1

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## newtodirecttv

genaccmiller said:


> newtodirecttv said:
> 
> 
> 
> FYI, Citi canceled the rewind program in Sept.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't believe that's correct. See below.
> 
> https://www.citipricerewind.com/faq#faq1
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

 yes it is. Check out General from the link you sent - General

Important Notice

The benefit as described below is available for purchases made with your card on or before September 21, 2019. This benefit is no longer available for purchases made on or after September 22, 2019.


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## genaccmiller

newtodirecttv said:


> yes it is. Check out General from the link you sent - General
> 
> Important Notice
> 
> The benefit as described below is available for purchases made with your card on or before September 21, 2019. This benefit is no longer available for purchases made on or after September 22, 2019.


Hmmm.....that's not good. Any other options?

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## Dominic Chan

*Measured Gains of All Silver Ticket Screen Materials*

I received the sample kit and measured the gains of each material. The gain measurements are correct in relative terms, but the values are assuming 1.0 for the white paper. The R,G,B percentages are relative to the 1.3 gain raw material, as that's what I calibrated my projector to.

Material; *Gain*; R,G,B percentages
Walmart Pen Gear 92 White Paper:	*1.00* (reference)	101, 100, 101
1.3 Raw Material:	*1.11* 100, 100, 100 (reference)
1.1 Matte white: *0.99* 98, 100, 101
1.0 Matte grey: * 0.59* 95, 100, 106
0.95 High Contrast Grey:	*0.67* 101, 100, 98
1.5 Silver Glossy Side	*1.03* 99, 100, 102
1.5 Silver Matte Side:	*0.66* 99, 100, 102
1.1 Woven Acoustic WAB:	*0.74* 98, 100, 101

Not surprisingly, the measured gains are less than the rated values, some significantly so. The worst one is the Silver material - 0.66 vs 1.5 for the matte side which supposedly is the front.

Note also that the matte materials have the same gains over a wide viewing angle, whereas the gains for other materials fall off rapidly off centre (hotspotting):










I have also posted a picture comparing the smoothness of the 1.3 with the 1.1:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/3102842-screen-recommendation-jvc-x790r.html#post59004682


----------



## Neuroman11

Hi everyone. I would like your advice. I am interested in a Silver Ticket 120” screen. My room is quite dark with blackout curtains. However, I have light brown walls and off-white ceiling. Would you recommend white matte, gray or high-contrast? Thank you.


----------



## noob00224

Neuroman11 said:


> Hi everyone. I would like your advice. I am interested in a Silver Ticket 120” screen. My room is quite dark with blackout curtains. However, I have light brown walls and off-white ceiling. Would you recommend white matte, gray or high-contrast? Thank you.


What is the projector?
Distance from lens to screen?
Seating distance?


----------



## Neuroman11

noob00224

I have a Sony 285es projector. It is mounted about 14 ft from the screen. I sit 8 feet from the screen.


----------



## noob00224

Neuroman11 said:


> noob00224
> 
> I have a Sony 285es projector. It is mounted about 14 ft from the screen. I sit 8 feet from the screen.


The closer a projector is the brighter it will be. With 120" from 14ft the loss of brightness is around 5%.
https://www.projectorcentral.com/sony-vpl-vw285es-4k-projector-review.htm
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Sony-VW285ES-projection-calculator-pro.htm

Still this is not a bright projector. Any negative grey screen would not be recommended. It would probably darken the image too much.

It is capable of good blacks. Wall reflections will wash out the blacks and contrast.
Demonstration:
https://www.facebook.com/projectiondream/videos/1692721894385217/

It's very recommended to treat the walls, ceiling, screen wall and floor for reflections, at least the part near the screen, 2m/6ft.
Dark paint is ok, black velvet is better.

A white screen will do best in this scenario.
Maybe even a higher end screen than ST.
Similar discussion:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/3102842-screen-recommendation-jvc-x790r.html


----------



## Laserfan

Neuroman11 said:


> noob00224
> 
> I have a Sony 285es projector. It is mounted about 14 ft from the screen. I sit 8 feet from the screen.


That is a great projector, congrats! I think it doesn't have the automatic iris--my 385 has the iris, and I have a dark room, probably darker than yours, but still since I came from an old pj setup that was "more grey than black" I went with the High Contrast material in 125" 'scope and am very happy with it. I wanted specifically for "outer space" movies to look black and they certainly do.

Others will prefer a lighter screen that has brighter images but we even watch 3D happily i.e. don't care that perhaps our images could be brighter.

This is AV SCIENCE forum and I'm less interested in the lumens than I am in the "art". So a lot of "what material" will be up to your own inclinations about it.

EDIT: noob00224 beat me to a reply and I don't argue with any of his comments.


----------



## noob00224

Laserfan said:


> That is a great projector, congrats! I think it doesn't have the automatic iris--my 385 has the iris, and I have a dark room, probably darker than yours, but still since I came from an old pj setup that was "more grey than black" I went with the High Contrast material in 125" 'scope and am very happy with it. I wanted specifically for "outer space" movies to look black and they certainly do.
> 
> Others will prefer a lighter screen that has brighter images but we even watch 3D happily i.e. don't care that perhaps our images could be brighter.
> 
> This is AV SCIENCE forum and I'm less interested in the lumens than I am in the "art". So a lot of "what material" will be up to your own inclinations about it.
> 
> EDIT: noob00224 beat me to a reply and I don't argue with any of his comments.



What lamp mode is being used and what preset?
Distance from screen?


----------



## Neuroman11

noob00224 and Laserfan
Thank you both for your advice.


----------



## Neuroman11

noob00224, is there a particular screen you would recommend for my set up ?


----------



## noob00224

Neuroman11 said:


> noob00224, is there a particular screen you would recommend for my set up ?


Depends, is the room going to be treated?
The Picture Quality of the projector will suffer if not, especially the dark parts.

If the room will be treated a white screen will do.



If not than a High Contrast fabric would be best suited, since it has the highest gain at 0.67 out of all the grey screens.

LE: the 385 and 285 are similar in terms of brightness, and if @Laserfan says he is happy with the brightness, it may be ok.


----------



## Laserfan

noob00224 said:


> ...if @Laserfan says he is happy with the brightness, it may be ok.


I should qualify my happiness: I watch movies in the dark! Period! No live TV and especially perhaps no sports, so my idea of acceptable brightness might be different from others. The closest I get to feeling like I need more brightness might be with 3D movies, though even there we like them well enough.

Neuroman11 your screen and seating is a bit closer than ours, and if you plan a 16x9 screen (ours is 2.35:1) then all those things will help with perceived brightness.


----------



## Dave in Green

Laserfan said:


> I should qualify my happiness: I watch movies in the dark! Period! No live TV and especially perhaps no sports, so my idea of acceptable brightness might be different from others. ...


This is an important factor that's often overlooked. We're generally accustomed to watching movies at commercial cinemas in the 20 fL range and TV shows on our televisions at home with more than double the brightness. When we watch movies at home on video projection systems at high fL it can seem more TV-like. Some want to replicate the brightness of the commercial theater experience for viewing movies while others may prefer everything being TV bright. So personal preference plays a big role in how bright we want our home video projection systems to be. We need to focus on our own personal preferences rather than what others tell us works best for them.


----------



## Neuroman11

Laserfan

I also watch only in the dark (I have blackout curtains) and only movies on Blu-ray. However the walls are light brown and ceiling off white. I would really prefer not to paint the room so maybe the high contrast screen is the way to go. Would a gray screen be a good compromise or not much difference from white? I assume you have a Silver Ticket? I had an in home consultation from Best Buy and they said the darker screens make the picture brighter. Of course he was probably just trying to sell me the more expensive screens.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Neuroman11 said:


> Laserfan
> 
> I also watch only in the dark (I have blackout curtains) and only movies on Blu-ray. However the walls are light brown and ceiling off white. I would really prefer not to paint the room so maybe the high contrast screen is the way to go. Would a gray screen be a good compromise or not much difference from white? I assume you have a Silver Ticket? I had an in home consultation from Best Buy and they said the darker screens make the picture brighter. Of course he was probably just trying to sell me the more expensive screens.


Grey screens will help with the contrast when there’s significant room reflections, assuming you have enough lumens to overcome the lower gain. Note that the Silver Ticket grey screen has a measured gain of less than 0.7; i.e., you’ll be losing 30% brightness.


----------



## Neuroman11

Dominic

Their website states that the gain of the gray screen is 1?


----------



## Dominic Chan

Neuroman11 said:


> Dominic
> 
> Their website states that the gain of the gray screen is 1?


With the exception of Stewart, you cannot trust the posted gains. If you go back a few posts you will find my measured gains for all Silver Ticket screen materials.


----------



## noob00224

Neuroman11 said:


> Dominic
> 
> Their website states that the gain of the gray screen is 1?


From the previous page:



Dominic Chan said:


> I received the sample kit and measured the gains of each material. The gain measurements are correct in relative terms, but the values are assuming 1.0 for the white paper. The R,G,B percentages are relative to the 1.3 gain raw material, as that's what I calibrated my projector to.
> 
> Material; *Gain*; R,G,B percentages
> Walmart Pen Gear 92 White Paper: *1.00* (reference) 101, 100, 101
> 1.3 Raw Material: *1.11* 100, 100, 100 (reference)
> 1.1 Matte white: *0.99* 98, 100, 101
> 1.0 Matte grey: * 0.59* 95, 100, 106
> 0.95 High Contrast Grey: *0.67* 101, 100, 98
> 1.5 Silver Glossy Side *1.03* 99, 100, 102
> 1.5 Silver Matte Side: *0.66* 99, 100, 102
> 1.1 Woven Acoustic WAB: *0.74* 98, 100, 101
> 
> Not surprisingly, the measured gains are less than the rated values, some significantly so. The worst one is the Silver material - 0.66 vs 1.5 for the matte side which supposedly is the front.


----------



## Laserfan

Neuroman11 said:


> Laserfan I also watch only in the dark (I have blackout curtains) and only movies on Blu-ray. However the walls are light brown and ceiling off white. I would really prefer not to paint the room so maybe the high contrast screen is the way to go. Would a gray screen be a good compromise or not much difference from white? I assume you have a Silver Ticket? I had an in home consultation from Best Buy and they said the darker screens make the picture brighter. Of course he was probably just trying to sell me the more expensive screens.


Yes I have the 125" Cinemascope Silver Ticket in High Contrast. I've had a white screen in the past, and an admittedly less-capable PJ the HC4900 Mitsubishi, and blacks were never black, only dark grey. So in building my new HT I just wanted BLACK! so I went with HC and am very happy with it.

As discussed here many times this is a personal decision based on your experience, viewing prefs, and of course budget. And what made the ST a no-brainer for me was the simple fact that if I disliked the screen so much that I wanted to replace it, I would not be out an arm and a leg-worth of money. If I weren't happy, I'd probably just buy another similar ST with a different material and the cost at


----------



## Dominic Chan

Laserfan said:


> If I weren't happy, I'd probably just buy another similar ST with a different material and the cost at


----------



## Neuroman11

I see that the gain for the gray matte is lower than the high contrast. Does that mean the high contrast is brighter? Iwould that be preferable in my described HT set up? I know it’s personable preference. I just would like to get your opinions. I apologize for all of the questions. I just don’t know anyone who knows home theater. I appreciate everyone’s input


----------



## Dominic Chan

Neuroman11 said:


> I see that the gain for the gray matte is lower than the high contrast. Does that mean the high contrast is brighter? Iwould that be preferable in my described HT set up? I know it’s personable preference. I just would like to get your opinions. I apologize for all of the questions. I just don’t know anyone who knows home theater. I appreciate everyone’s input


HC grey works better than matte grey if you have stray light or reflected light from ceiling and side walls (white or light-colours). By the same token, it has a narrower viewing angle, and some sheen or sparkles.


----------



## Neuroman11

Again, thank you all for your help. 

Given my set up (Sony 285es 14’ from screen, dark room with blackout curtains, light walls and off white ceiling) would you think Silver Ticket HC or Elite CineGrey 3D be best?


----------



## noob00224

Neuroman11 said:


> Again, thank you all for your help.
> 
> Given my set up (Sony 285es 14’ from screen, dark room with blackout curtains, light walls and off white ceiling) would you think Silver Ticket HC or Elite CineGrey 3D be best?


The Cinegrey 3D will raise the black level, or at least it did on my setup. It also requires a minimum throw range of 1.5x. An 120" screen from 14' will have an 1.6x throw. It will very likely have a hotspot and sparkle in the center of the screen.








It's also much more expensive as a screen, unless the fabric is acquired and mounted on a frame.
The Cinegrey 3D is more a screen for environments with medium to medium-high ambient light, i.e. sports bars, lights on sports watching.

For lights off viewing the ST HC will be more appropriate.


----------



## Neuroman11

Thank you noob00224. Is 120” appropriate size at 14’?


----------



## noob00224

Neuroman11 said:


> Thank you noob00224. Is 120” appropriate size at 14’?


Isn't the seating at 8'?


The projector can be used on a wall for few weeks and see what is acceptable.
It's not something that is generally agreed upon. Personal preference comes into play.

From this thread:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...e-screen-size-per-thx-recommended-angles.html



AV_Integrated said:


> The amazing reality is that 10" of diagonal for each foot of viewing distance is almost the easiest way to describe things. Yeah, no calculations really necessary.
> 
> In surveys here (AVS) it seems that 10" to 12" of diagonal per foot of viewing distance is almost always the preferred screen size.
> 
> Yeah, some like it larger (a lot) some like it smaller, but not many do.
> 
> I know I like about 10" per foot of viewing distance myself. I'm sure this thread will have a bunch of others chiming in with their screen size and viewing distance. Especially those who enjoy their 13"+ diagonal for each foot of viewing distance.
> 
> While I think you did emphasize 'personal preference', it would have been good if you recommended that people buy a projector first, set it up on a coffee table, and actually watch at a few different sizes before buying a screen. That's always a good rule for so many. This way they can decide on their personally preferred screen size before investing in a screen. While I love my 16' to 161", others may want to be 18 or 19 feet back and others may want the same screen from 12' away. Try before you buy should always be the direction taken.


----------



## Dominic Chan

noob00224 said:


> The Cinegrey 3D will raise the black level, or at least it did on my setup. It also requires a minimum throw range of 1.5x. An 120" screen from 14' will have an 1.6x throw. It will very likely have a hotspot and sparkle in the center of the screen.
> 
> For lights off viewing the ST HC will be more appropriate.


ST HC also has hotspot. See side-by-side comparison with the ST matte grey.










Note the picture was taken with the material wrapped around a tube to make the effect more obvious; on an actual screen the brightness gradient will be spread over a much wider area.

It can also be seen that the HC is brighter than the matte grey only where the light reflects directly; everywhere else it’s darker.


----------



## Laserfan

FWIW I have a 125" wide HC and have never observed hotspotting or sparkles.



Dominic Chan said:


> You can also just swap the screen material.


Although I have never contacted ST about this, their website does not indicate one can easily buy e.g. in my case a different material to fit my 125" wide Scope frame.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Laserfan said:


> FWIW I have a 125" wide HC and have never observed hotspotting or sparkles.
> 
> 
> Although I have never contacted ST about this, their website does not indicate one can easily buy e.g. in my case a different material to fit my 125" wide Scope frame.


https://www.silverticketproducts.com/products/replacement-screen-material-for-fixed-frame-screens

$154 for the matte white in your size. They may charge you less if you’re an existing customer.


----------



## Laserfan

Dominic Chan said:


> https://www.silverticketproducts.com/products/replacement-screen-material-for-fixed-frame-screens
> 
> They may charge you less if you’re an existing customer.


Well look at that! I have not explored their website for a couple years so thanks for sharing!


----------



## Neuroman11

noob00224. My projector lens is about 14’ from screen. I sit 8’ from screen


----------



## noob00224

Dominic Chan said:


> ST HC also has hotspot. See side-by-side comparison with the ST matte grey.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the picture was taken with the material wrapped around a tube to make the effect more obvious; on an actual screen the brightness gradient will be spread over a much wider area.


I assume any artifacting will be less severe or even unnoticeable since the screen is just 0.67 gain and is not that dark. 

@


Laserfan said:


> FWIW I have a 125" wide HC and have never observed hotspotting or sparkles.


How far is the projector placed from the screen?



Neuroman11 said:


> noob00224. My projector lens is about 14’ from screen. I sit 8’ from screen


I commented on screen sizes in this post:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-60.html#post58842550


----------



## Dominic Chan

noob00224 said:


> I assume any artifacting will be less severe or even unnoticeable since the screen is just 0.67 gain and is not that dark.


The screen is pretty dark. If you look at that picture, where you get the direct reflection the HC is brighter than the matte grey, but off centre it gets much darker than matte grey.

Sparkles are less noticeable on less bright screens, but the light fall-off is independent of the brightness.

The matte grey is wrapped on the same tube, and yet looking at the picture you may not realize that as the brightness is uniform.


----------



## Laserfan

noob00224 said:


> How far is the projector placed from the screen?


My 385 is at 15' 8" from my HC screen.


----------



## Bellaseni

How did they manage to do that rollout on the ceilings and side with the black fabric ?


----------



## noob00224

Laserfan said:


> My 385 is at 15' 8" from my HC screen.



15'8" (188")/115.125" (screen width)=1.633 throw ratio.



Laserfan said:


> FWIW I have a 125" wide HC and have never observed hotspotting or sparkles.


14' (168")/1.633=102.87" screen width.
That is either 121.25" in 2.35:1 format or 118" inches for 16:9 format.

Laserfan's 385 is similar in brightness to the 295. 

@Neuroman11 you should still try to project an image on the wall to see what works, but a 16:9 screen of up to 118/120" should not have any hotspots or sparkles. With the HC fabric.


----------



## elmalloc

*Silver ticket screen in vaulted open living room. 6500 lumens, TR of 1.1*

I have an Epson G7500U (faux-K) projector I use outside (from 30ft away it projects a 21ftx9ft 2.35 image).


It has 6500 lumens.
It's almost winter now and I would like to try to use it indoors, mainly for night time viewing because the room has windows, a lot of light penetration and white walls.
If I can get it to work for some daytime viewing that would be a bonus. I'm not open to painting the front wall or ceiling dark in this room.
Throw ratio will be 1.1 (15.5 ft distance / 14 ft width).

What screen material do you suggest for no moire?

Thanks,
ELmO


----------



## noob00224

elmalloc said:


> I have an Epson G7500U (faux-K) projector I use outside (from 30ft away it projects a 21ftx9ft 2.35 image).
> 
> 
> It has 6500 lumens.
> It's almost winter now and I would like to try to use it indoors, mainly for night time viewing because the room has windows, a lot of light penetration and white walls.
> If I can get it to work for some daytime viewing that would be a bonus. I'm not open to painting the front wall or ceiling dark in this room.
> Throw ratio will be 1.1 (15.5 ft distance / 14 ft width).
> 
> What screen material do you suggest for no moire?
> 
> Thanks,
> ELmO


Have you decided on what size the screen will be and what format? 
I see the G7500U has options for multiple lenses, which one is being used?

It's relevant to determine the size and format of the screen in order to estimate the brightness.
Could not find any reviews with the actual lumens output depending on preset, lamp, zoom, etc.


This might be useful:
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Pro_G7500U-projection-calculator-pro.htm

This projector being bright the fabric with the lowest gain should be looked at, Matte grey with 0.59 gain. But that might be too much gain as well. A ND filter can be used to reduce the brightness even further.

Calculate the square footage of the screen and divide it by the lumens. The lumens are for the format of the projected image, not the screen. If the screen is 2.4:1 and the projected image is 16:10, the square footage is for the latter.
https://www.calculatorsoup.com/calculators/construction/square-footage-calculator.php

Samples can be ordered to make sure the moire effect is not present.

What is the type of Carl's fabric used? Does it have a moire effect?

This webiste for calculations for different formats:
https://www.draperinc.com/projectionscreens/customsizecalculator.aspx


For general information regarding use in daytime:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...projector-use-ambient-light.html#post58810778

You could get some blinds to cover the windows.




Dominic Chan said:


> I received the sample kit and measured the gains of each material. The gain measurements are correct in relative terms, but the values are assuming 1.0 for the white paper. The R,G,B percentages are relative to the 1.3 gain raw material, as that's what I calibrated my projector to.
> 
> Material; *Gain*; R,G,B percentages
> Walmart Pen Gear 92 White Paper: *1.00* (reference) 101, 100, 101
> 1.3 Raw Material: *1.11* 100, 100, 100 (reference)
> 1.1 Matte white: *0.99* 98, 100, 101
> 1.0 Matte grey: * 0.59* 95, 100, 106
> 0.95 High Contrast Grey: *0.67* 101, 100, 98
> 1.5 Silver Glossy Side *1.03* 99, 100, 102
> 1.5 Silver Matte Side: *0.66* 99, 100, 102
> 1.1 Woven Acoustic WAB: *0.74* 98, 100, 101
> 
> Not surprisingly, the measured gains are less than the rated values, some significantly so. The worst one is the Silver material - 0.66 vs 1.5 for the matte side which supposedly is the front.


----------



## elmalloc

noob00224 said:


> Have you decided on what size the screen will be and what format?
> I see the G7500U has options for multiple lenses, which one is being used?
> 
> It's relevant to determine the size and format of the screen in order to estimate the brightness.
> Could not find any reviews with the actual lumens output depending on preset, lamp, zoom, etc.
> 
> 
> This might be useful:
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Pro_G7500U-projection-calculator-pro.htm
> 
> This projector being bright the fabric with the lowest gain should be looked at, Matte grey with 0.59 gain. But that might be too much gain as well. A ND filter can be used to reduce the brightness even further.
> 
> Calculate the square footage of the screen and divide it by the lumens. The lumens are for the format of the projected image, not the screen. If the screen is 2.4:1 and the projected image is 16:10, the square footage is for the latter.
> https://www.calculatorsoup.com/calculators/construction/square-footage-calculator.php
> 
> Samples can be ordered to make sure the moire effect is not present.
> 
> What is the type of Carl's fabric used? Does it have a moire effect?
> 
> This webiste for calculations for different formats:
> https://www.draperinc.com/projectionscreens/customsizecalculator.aspx
> 
> 
> For general information regarding use in daytime:
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...projector-use-ambient-light.html#post58810778
> 
> You could get some blinds to cover the windows.


I'm looking at 2.35 AR, at least 12ft wide. It looks like silver ticket stops around there. I had a sim2 with A-lens doing 14ft from the same location and it "worked" but it was nowhere near as bright as this Epson, so I think I can get the Epson to do so with the right lens.

From what I understand the lens won't have a major affect on the lumens output, it probably has plenty to spare. I currently use the standard lens which can only get 10ft wide from current location, will have to spend about $1800 for Epson's shorter throw lens to get a 14ft wide image from 15ft away. 

The project image will be 16:10 with the epson, when using outside it worked very well because it just projected into pitch darkness. Inside, it will be hitting a white wall for the "black bars".

The largest silver ticket 2.35 is their 153" wide, which is roughly 100 square feet on 16x10. Do you mean lumens / square foot (instead of other way?). 6500 / 100 = 650.

I am using Carl's FlexiWhite outside and I see no moire, but I'm sitting 30ft away from it. The image looked perfect, better than anything I had ever set up inside, which was st range, but I think it has to do with outdoors being the perfect pitch black environment. My home gym in the basement used to be my small theater room and I painted the ceiling black, used black velvet on the front wall, and the image was very nice.

I think no projector really wants to deal with any ambient light, unfortunately.

*You are not any type of noob *that I have met.


----------



## noob00224

elmalloc said:


> I'm looking at 2.35 AR, at least 12ft wide. It looks like silver ticket stops around there. I had a sim2 with A-lens doing 14ft from the same location and it "worked" but it was nowhere near as bright as this Epson, so I think I can get the Epson to do so with the right lens.
> 
> From what I understand the lens won't have a major affect on the lumens output, it probably has plenty to spare. I currently use the standard lens which can only get 10ft wide from current location, will have to spend about $1800 for Epson's shorter throw lens to get a 14ft wide image from 15ft away.
> 
> The project image will be 16:10 with the epson, when using outside it worked very well because it just projected into pitch darkness. Inside, it will be hitting a white wall for the "black bars".
> 
> The largest silver ticket 2.35 is their 153" wide, which is roughly 100 square feet on 16x10. Do you mean lumens / square foot (instead of other way?). 6500 / 100 = 650.
> 
> I am using Carl's FlexiWhite outside and I see no moire, but I'm sitting 30ft away from it. The image looked perfect, better than anything I had ever set up inside, which was st range, but I think it has to do with outdoors being the perfect pitch black environment. My home gym in the basement used to be my small theater room and I painted the ceiling black, used black velvet on the front wall, and the image was very nice.
> 
> I think no projector really wants to deal with any ambient light, unfortunately.
> 
> *You are not any type of noob *that I have met.


Yes, divide the lumens by the square footage. 
It does not matter the format of the screen, the square footage calculated is that of the projected image (16:10 or otherwise). 

Then adjust for fabric gain.
If a fabric has 0.59 gain for example, and the resulted fL is 110, 110x0.59=64.9fL
15fL is recommended for SDR, 30+fL for HDR.

A zoom lens is different from a lens that changes the format of the image (i.e. from 16:10 to 2.35:1). 
The brightness with a zoom lens will decrease because the projected image is larger. Or at least that's how it works with regular zoom on projectors. If the projector remains in the same position and the zoom is used to create a larger image the brightness decreases. 
@b curry had some insight about this subject on another thread. 


One issue here is determining what the lumens is for that projector.
This what the actual lumens are for a Epson 3LCD (HC3700) rated at 3000lm are:









Lamps dim with time.
The G7500U is rated at 6500lm.
If you have a luxmeter or colorimenter, or a luxmeter app on a phone, the lumens can be measured with that, although I have not done it.

For example, a 16"10 projected image with a width of 144" (12ft) has 90 ft². 
With Cinema on Eco lamp (lowest lumens output) plus whatever age the lamp has could result could be~3000lm. 3000/90=33.33fL
With a 1.0 gain screen. With a 0.59 gain screen that would be 19.66fL.

An ND filter could be used to lower the lumens.

As in the thread linked above regarding projector use in ambient light, a grey screen would also reflect less light around the room which will improve black levels and contrast. 
An ND filter reduces the brightness at the lens.

Options would be:

White screen with ND filter.

Grey screen. With ND filter?.

Paints. The wall could be painted, or some other surface that does not have to be a screen. Paints are also cheaper, can have ALR properties that will help with the white walls, and can be darker than the ST options above (even the 0.59 fabric).
The subforum where this is discussed.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-screen-section/

I'm not too familiar with screen brands of this size, but there a cinema hall screen manufacturer that could accommodate whatever screen is required: Harkness Screens (UK) (link). You have to send them an email to get an update list of fabrics, but when I got it a few years ago they had a 0.2 and 0.3 gain screens.
There seems to be a US outlet as well. They do send samples. 
https://www.av-iq.com/avcat/ctl1642/index.cfm?manufacturer=harkness-screens

You may also want to make a separate thread on the screens subforum:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/


So depending on what size screen is possible, the fabric/paint would have to be chosen. The brightness is an important factor. An ND filter can be used if the fabric has too much gain (i.e. 1.0 or 0.59). With a gain of 0.3 an ND filter might not be required.

LE: A grey fabric would help with wall reflections, but a 0.2 might be too dim. So a combination of a 0.7 gain and a ND filter could work. It really depends on the brightness of the projector.


----------



## Solarium

I'm looking for a 135" screen for a JVC X790 with throw distance of 14 feet or so, in a untreated room that has a white ceiling, ceiling mounted about 18 inches long pole from mount), what would be the optimal screen?

I'm looking at the HC material ST screen, but open to other suggestions.

Also, should I be looking at a higher or lower gain screen? Thanks


----------



## jjg247

bscool said:


> [
> 
> I used sticky tac around all the mounts and it quieted them all. I work it in and around the brackets and the frame and also put it between the brackets and the wall and any other high spots on the back of the frame that touched the wall.
> 
> But the screen still flutters with heavy bass but no noise.


Would you mind showing a picture of this? I’m getting rattles from my ST screen during moderate/heavy bass and wanted to try this method before going down any major rabbit holes.


----------



## filmgeek47

Solarium said:


> I'm looking for a 135" screen for a JVC X790 with throw distance of 14 feet or so, in a untreated room that has a white ceiling, ceiling mounted about 18 inches long pole from mount), what would be the optimal screen?
> 
> I'm looking at the HC material ST screen, but open to other suggestions.
> 
> Also, should I be looking at a higher or lower gain screen? Thanks


Not an expert myself, but I’d imagine it’s hard to offer a recommendation without knowing if the room is light controlled. I will say at that size, I’d suggest shooting for something that’s got a mild amount of gain (like 1.3 or so) just to give you extra headroom for HDR. I’m currently using a somewhat roughed up silver ticket 1.1 white screen at 120” 16:9 with the same projector, and while I’m happy with the brightness, I think it’s approaching the bubble of minimum HDR brightness for me personally at my size.


----------



## tcramer

Dominic Chan said:


> I received the sample kit and measured the gains of each material. The gain measurements are correct in relative terms, but the values are assuming 1.0 for the white paper. The R,G,B percentages are relative to the 1.3 gain raw material, as that's what I calibrated my projector to.
> 
> Material; *Gain*; R,G,B percentages
> 
> 1.1 Woven Acoustic WAB:	*0.74* 98, 100, 101
> 
> Not surprisingly, the measured gains are less than the rated values, some significantly so. The worst one is the Silver material - 0.66 vs 1.5 for the matte side which supposedly is the front.


Interesting, I was considering the woven material for a friend's setup. I have samples of this, the Seymour XD and the AVS Science AT material. I was a bit hesitant to try the AV Science material because .8 gain (but a true .8) but after seeing this, the ST is actually lower than that.

The ST woven material also just seems off white and dingy, based on the sample I got. Does anyone who actually has the material agree with that, or is it a truer white? I thought perhaps I got a bad sample. Here is a picture I took of my samples. ST is top left, Seymour is bottom left and AVS Screen Science is on the right.


----------



## Dominic Chan

tcramer said:


> Interesting, I was considering the woven material for a friend's setup. I have samples of this, the Seymour XD and the AVS Science AT material. I was a bit hesitant to try the AV Science material because .8 gain (but a true .8) but after seeing this, the ST is actually lower than that.
> 
> The ST woven material also just seems off white and dingy, based on the sample I got. Does anyone who actually has the material agree with that, or is it a truer white? I thought perhaps I got a bad sample. Here is a picture I took of my samples. ST is top left, Seymour is bottom left and AVS Screen Science is on the right.


As explained in my original post:



> The gain measurements are correct in relative terms, but the values are assuming 1.0 for the white paper.


Thus they can be compared with the others I measured, but cannot be compared with gains quoted by others in terms of small differences (less than 0.1). Based on your picture the AV Science material has the lowest gain of the three. 

You cannot judge “dinginess” when viewed side-by-side with other materials. It just means the gain is lower.


----------



## Cryptic7

Has anyone noticed that Silver Ticket has a new ALR option (different than the Silver or UST screen), priced more like SI? Has anyone seen these? The website has very few details about it.


----------



## ereed

tcramer said:


> Interesting, I was considering the woven material for a friend's setup. I have samples of this, the Seymour XD and the AVS Science AT material. I was a bit hesitant to try the AV Science material because .8 gain (but a true .8) but after seeing this, the ST is actually lower than that.
> 
> The ST woven material also just seems off white and dingy, based on the sample I got. Does anyone who actually has the material agree with that, or is it a truer white? I thought perhaps I got a bad sample. Here is a picture I took of my samples. ST is top left, Seymour is bottom left and AVS Screen Science is on the right.


You can't even see the weave in the AVS AT material in your images. I'm willing to bet you can sit a lot closer to that material where the ones on the left side you need minimum 12 feet to not see it. Does the AVS material have brand name?


----------



## rossandwendy

ereed said:


> You can't even see the weave in the AVS AT material in your images. I'm willing to bet you can sit a lot closer to that material where the ones on the left side you need minimum 12 feet to not see it. Does the AVS material have brand name?


It's the DreamScreen V6 material that AVS is selling. There is a thread on it: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/2634457-dreamscreen-v6-ultraweave-screen.html

Ross


----------



## WOKNROX

ereed said:


> You can't even see the weave in the AVS AT material in your images. I'm willing to bet you can sit a lot closer to that material where the ones on the left side you need minimum 12 feet to not see it. Does the AVS material have brand name?


I use the ST AT screen in my theater...the weave is nonexistent from a foot or two away. 
Also... the audio transparency is excellent as well..!
I dont use the black backing material that comes with the scree and i don't have any reflections either 

Excellent screen especially for the money.


----------



## avsBuddy

Cryptic7 said:


> Has anyone noticed that Silver Ticket has a new ALR option (different than the Silver or UST screen), priced more like SI? Has anyone seen these? The website has very few details about it.


Link?


----------



## Dominic Chan

avsBuddy said:


> Link?


https://www.silverticketproducts.com/products/str-169100-alr


----------



## Dave in Green

That new ALR material is ridiculously high priced for Silver Ticket. I can't imagine many people paying those prices for something that doesn't even have a technical description. Silver Ticket rightfully gained its good reputation on the basis of good quality at low prices. Competing in the high end of the market is a different animal so Silver Ticket has some learning to do.


----------



## Cryptic7

ST was kind enough to send me a sample of their new ALR material and frankly I am really really impressed. It has extremely wide angle horizontally, and narrow vertically (seems more like parallax which I haven't viewed). The overall gain is definitely less than 1, but there is no clear texture. 

Will post more pictures when I have time to do a more detailed viewing. Heres a couple to start, full can light on as a torture from head on and very wide angle.

I need to find out how badly this hot spots as they don't post minimum throw, but it seems mostly angularly rejective in one direction


----------



## Dave in Green

Cryptic7 said:


> ST was kind enough to send me a sample of their new ALR material and frankly I am really really impressed. It has extremely wide angle horizontally, and narrow vertically (seems more like parallax which I haven't viewed). The overall gain is definitely less than 1, but there is no clear texture.
> 
> Will post more pictures when I have time to do a more detailed viewing. Heres a couple to start, full can light on as a torture from head on and very wide angle.
> 
> I need to find out how badly this hot spots as they don't post minimum throw, but it seems mostly angularly rejective in one direction


At the price ST is asking, their new ALR material better be impressive. Their msrp for a 120" screen is a budget-melting $4,499.98 with current sale price of $2,259.98. If you dig deep enough into their website they do have at least a brief description of this new material:



> *Ambient Light Rejecting (ALR)- 0.8 gain*
> 
> Ambient-light-rejecting means that light coming from any angle other than perpendicularly from the projection surface will be absorbed. There is a micro texture, almost like the skin on a shark, that reject light that coming from either side or the top and bottom. It will only accept light coming from 90 degrees from the screen, such as a ceiling-mounted projector.
> 
> Seeing as this screen does not accept light from harsh angles, ST and UST projectors are not going to work with this screen.


----------



## Cryptic7

Yeah the price is a little (ha) steep for something especially coming from Silver Ticket. I don't agree with that blurb, it is very clearly directional at least the sample they sent me. I'll try to capture that later. The biggest downside is the gain on axis does seem pretty low.

From what I can tell from my high contrast screen as well as all samples I've seen, Silver ticket makes great products at a great price: but they don't advertise specs well. They advertise High Contrast as lambertian but it is definitely ALR with a viewing cone similar to Matinee Wide, and lower on axis gain (but advertised as higher).

But that's all fine because the price is right. However if you're going to sell me a product for 1000+ then the specs need to be right in the marketing material.


----------



## JosephF

Ordered a Silver Ticket screen last week to replace my old Jamestown. After a few delays I received it yesterday and got it all setup.

I have to give it a little time, but initial impressions are that it is one hell of a lot of bang for the buck!


----------



## rossandwendy

JosephF said:


> Ordered a Silver Ticket screen last week to replace my old Jamestown. After a few delays I received it yesterday and got it all setup.
> 
> I have to give it a little time, but initial impressions are that it is one hell of a lot of bang for the buck!


Can't beat them for the price! Enjoy it.

Ross


----------



## Ennsio

Does anyone have experience using a Silver Ticket screen with an Epson 5040 projector in a completely light controlled room? That's the setup my friend is creating and has asked for my advice on. He's wondering if he should get a grey or white screen. It would be for movies and sports, and his room is 12x18. Projector screen would likely be 110" or 120". 



He would like to have dark blacks and also vibrant colors, so I'm wondering how much of a tradeoff between the two you get when comparing a grey and a white ST screen, and which one presents the best mix.


----------



## Cryptic7

If it's truly light controlled, the 5040UB already has great black level. White screen seems to make the most sense to me. But keep in mind the ST grey is really pretty light colored. He can always order samples from them for like five dollars to decide.


----------



## Laserfan

Ennsio said:


> ...He would like to have dark blacks and also vibrant colors, so I'm wondering how much of a tradeoff between the two you get when comparing a grey and a white ST screen, and which one presents the best mix.


If he wants dark blacks then white won't do no matter how "light-controlled" the room is IMO.

I had a perfectly white screen for years and now have instead the High Contrast Grey and I see great blacks and nice whites. He needs to figure out what is most important to him.


----------



## noob00224

Ennsio said:


> Does anyone have experience using a Silver Ticket screen with an Epson 5040 projector in a completely light controlled room? That's the setup my friend is creating and has asked for my advice on. He's wondering if he should get a grey or white screen. It would be for movies and sports, and his room is 12x18. Projector screen would likely be 110" or 120".
> 
> 
> 
> He would like to have dark blacks and also vibrant colors, so I'm wondering how much of a tradeoff between the two you get when comparing a grey and a white ST screen, and which one presents the best mix.


What color are the walls?
Any ambient light?
What percentage for sports?

A screen size should not be decided until the projector has been used on a wall for a while.


----------



## Ennsio

Laserfan said:


> If he wants dark blacks then white won't do no matter how "light-controlled" the room is IMO.
> 
> I had a perfectly white screen for years and now have instead the High Contrast Grey and I see great blacks and nice whites. He needs to figure out what is most important to him.




Thanks Laserfan. I’m interested in personal experiences like yours of going from a white to a grey screen. 

My reference is my own setup with a Benq HT2050 and a diy screen with Elite white 1.0 gain fabric. I find the colours are nice but there is a lot of reflection onto the walls and it would be nice to have darker blacks. However I also have lighter beige walls with gloss paint and a white ceiling so I know that is a factor. 

My friend’s room and ceiling will be charcoal and it will be completely light controlled. The Epson also has dynamic iris and is a better projector than mine so I assume all these factors will help make his blacks better. I’ll follow suggestions and get the sample fabric to compare the image on his wall. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Ennsio

noob00224 said:


> What color are the walls?
> Any ambient light?
> What percentage for sports?
> 
> A screen size should not be decided until the projector has been used on a wall for a while.




The walls and ceiling will all be charcoal matte paint. There is no ambient light because it will be a dedicated room with no windows in a basement.

Probably 50/50 sports and movies and the sports would likely be watched with lights on low. 

I totally agree about waiting to decide screen size after using the projector on the wall for a bit. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ennsio

Cryptic7 said:


> If it's truly light controlled, the 5040UB already has great black level. White screen seems to make the most sense to me. But keep in mind the ST grey is really pretty light colored. He can always order samples from them for like five dollars to decide.




Thanks. I’ve suggested that he order the samples to compare in his space. The Silver ticket website says white screens for complete light controlled rooms and grey for rooms with ambient light, but the samples will help compare in his room with sports and movies in low light and completely dark. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

Ennsio said:


> My friend’s room and ceiling will be charcoal and it will be completely light controlled. The Epson also has dynamic iris and is a better projector than mine so I assume all these factors will help make his blacks better. I’ll follow suggestions and get the sample fabric to compare the image on his wall.


In a light controlled room a white screen can give you very good blacks.

Note that you won’t be getting representative wall/ceiling reflections when using samples.


----------



## Laserfan

We all have them (opinions, that is) so here is mine: For movie-watching I want dark, very dark, with only a minimum of extra lighting to keep my irises from opening-up completely. I realize that some people want lots of image light but I am not into retina-burning light from my screen. And blacks are key when watching any movie that is set in outer space or otherwise needs realistic blacks. So grey (in my case High Contrast) is my choice for movies. What's more, at our house we do not interact at all when movie-watching, we sit quietly and just watch, maybe pausing once for drinks or popcorn or bathroom break.

For watching TV sports, blacks and pop and whatnot are not all that important--it's the game play and the outcomes that matter most. Further, watching sports at our house means coming and going and watching-or-skipping the commercials and drinking libations and eating snacks and talking to others present and...for us "watching sports" means having the lights on and enjoying each other along with what is going-on onscreen. So for sports we DON'T WANT IT DARK AT ALL and thus one needs a screen that deals well with light and reflections. The ideal screen for this simply isn't a plain white one.


----------



## chek39

Anyone used ST's Silver screen 1.5 gain screens and screen sizes were 140"+ (16.9 or 2.35) and pls can you provide your feedback on overall satatisfaction
My needs are probably 1.3 gain screens but they are very pricey from other makers and I saw couple of posts in forums that ST screen gains are not real gains and tentatively less.
So if ST 1.5 gain screen can produce gain around 1.2 or 1.3 I should be OK (i am coming to this assumption based on few posts) 
From price point, ST price very attractive.


Thanks


----------



## noob00224

chek39 said:


> Anyone used ST's Silver screen 1.5 gain screens and screen sizes were 140"+ (16.9 or 2.35) and pls can you provide your feedback on overall satatisfaction
> My needs are probably 1.3 gain screens but they are very pricey from other makers and I saw couple of posts in forums that ST screen gains are not real gains and tentatively less.
> So if ST 1.5 gain screen can produce gain around 1.2 or 1.3 I should be OK (i am coming to this assumption based on few posts)
> From price point, ST price very attractive.
> 
> 
> Thanks


I don't know what posts gave you the impression it's anywhere near that. The ST Silver is ~0.6-0.7 gain.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-59.html#post58823388


----------



## Dominic Chan

Laserfan said:


> I realize that some people want lots of image light but I am not into retina-burning light from my screen.


People do not use matte white screens to get retina-burning light. Regardless of the screen, the viewing brightness should be set to 50 nits peak (for SDR).

The main advantages of matte white screens are _uniform _ brightness from different viewing angles, and neutral colours. 

All "high contrast" screens are directional. The light fall-off may not be very apparent, but is easily demonstrated in a picture like this:


----------



## chek39

noob00224 said:


> I don't know what posts gave you the impression it's anywhere near that. The ST Silver is ~0.6-0.7 gain.
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-59.html#post58823388


Got it..
_Material; Gain; R,G,B percentages
Walmart Pen Gear 92 White Paper: 1.00 (reference) 101, 100, 101
1.3 Raw Material: 1.11 100, 100, 100 (reference)
1.1 Matte white: 0.99 98, 100, 101
1.0 Matte grey: 0.59 95, 100, 106
0.95 High Contrast Grey: 0.67 101, 100, 98
1.5 Silver Glossy Side 1.03 99, 100, 102
1.5 Silver Matte Side: 0.66 99, 100, 102
1.1 Woven Acoustic WAB: 0.74 98, 100, 101_

My assumption was generic comment on ST screens that they tend actually lower gains but didn't expected such a low

if really these are the true gain numbers, there are thousands of positive feed backs on ST screens (especially grey screens) and a 1.0 gain screen producing a real gain is 0.59 (close to 40% less), still all the people are satisfied ? I couldnt believe it .. (i am no way doubting the above gain numbers and at the same time those thousands of feedbacks in Amazon on ST screens ).. missing something


----------



## Dominic Chan

chek39 said:


> Material; Gain; R,G,B percentages
> 1.1 Matte white: 0.99 98, 100, 101
> 1.0 Matte grey: 0.59 95, 100, 106


Here’s the Silver Ticket matte white and matte grey side-by-side.










If someone wants/needs a grey screen, 0.6 gain actually makes much more sense. A 10% difference in gain is hardly noticeable.


----------



## chek39

I am trying to understand basics of gain with advertised gain numbers between different makers
Lot of posts indicate Stewart screens are best.. 
ST130 ... itseems it is as close as 1.3 -- So Stewart screens are perfect and gain numbers match what ever their marketing page showing..
ST 1.0 grey .. 0.59

if PJ is using high lumens and with other ambient light controls, 0.59 gain could be showing probably best blacks .. may be this works 120" inch or less screens.. but at the cost of bulb !
Anything above 130"+ ST grey screens need lot of PJ light (high bulb mode ?) to get satisfied (of coarse other factors like Throw distance etc... ) This is where I am little trouble understanding on overall satisfaction by so many on ST screens... I am referring all this with HDR factors considering


----------



## Dominic Chan

chek39 said:


> I am trying to understand basics of gain with advertised gain numbers between different makers
> Lot of posts indicate Stewart screens are best..
> ST130 ... itseems it is as close as 1.3 -- So Stewart screens are perfect and gain numbers match what ever their marketing page showing..


If you don’t have meters to measure the gains, the best way to get a feel is to order different samples from Stewart and Silver Ticket, and see what a _true_ 1.0 gain looks like.


----------



## chek39

Dominic Chan said:


> If you don’t have meters to measure the gains, the best way to get a feel is to order different samples from Stewart and Silver Ticket, and see what a _true_ 1.0 gain looks like.


I don't have meters but mostly I am trying to get advise/feedback and I am reading lot of posts spanned multiple threads on various experiences..

Bottom line is,
based on each unique requirements on screen size, gain, throw distance, seating, PJ etc.. and if anyone buying ST screen and they need to live with their reduced gain screens (but actual requirement on gain may be different)
ST screen price is almost 1/4 (or much less) compare to Stewart's.
@Dominic Chan and @noob00224
Do you use ST screens in your PJ setup ?


----------



## Dave in Green

Dominic Chan said:


> People do not use matte white screens to get retina-burning light. Regardless of the screen, the viewing brightness should be set to 50 nits peak (for SDR).
> 
> The main advantages of matte white screens are _uniform _ brightness from different viewing angles, and neutral colours.
> 
> All "high contrast" screens are directional. The light fall-off may not be very apparent, but is easily demonstrated in a picture like this:


Good info. I'd just add that a neutral density


----------



## Umrswimr

chek39 said:


> I am trying to understand basics of gain with advertised gain numbers between different makers
> Lot of posts indicate Stewart screens are best..
> ST130 ... itseems it is as close as 1.3 -- So Stewart screens are perfect and gain numbers match what ever their marketing page showing..
> ST 1.0 grey .. 0.59
> 
> if PJ is using high lumens and with other ambient light controls, 0.59 gain could be showing probably best blacks .. may be this works 120" inch or less screens.. but at the cost of bulb !
> Anything above 130"+ ST grey screens need lot of PJ light (high bulb mode ?) to get satisfied (of coarse other factors like Throw distance etc... ) This is where I am little trouble understanding on overall satisfaction by so many on ST screens... I am referring all this with HDR factors considering


This is kinda my worry, to be honest. The HC ST screen is advertised at 0.95, but who knows? At 150" and a 20' throw, my 5050ub is going to need a ton of light if the gain turns out to actually be 0.6.

But for $600, it's almost worth the gamble against an SI Slate 1.2 at $3.4k.


----------



## noob00224

Umrswimr said:


> This is kinda my worry, to be honest. The HC ST screen is advertised at 0.95, but who knows? At 150" and a 20' throw, my 5050ub is going to need a ton of light if the gain turns out to actually be 0.6.
> 
> But for $600, it's almost worth the gamble against an SI Slate 1.2 at $3.4k.


The ST High Contrast Grey was literally measured in the post above. As well as the Matte Grey. 

SI Slate 1.2 require 1.8-1.9x throw ratio / width to avoid artifacts, so for an 150" that's around 20'.


----------



## chek39

Umrswimr said:


> This is kinda my worry, to be honest. The HC ST screen is advertised at 0.95, but who knows? At 150" and a 20' throw, my 5050ub is going to need a ton of light if the gain turns out to actually be 0.6.
> 
> But for $600, it's almost worth the gamble against an SI Slate 1.2 at $3.4k.



That is my exact point and not able to connect. There are thousands of happy customers with ST screens and one of the most critical ask is "gain" and lot of things depend on this factor.
Either all the customers are happy at the ST price or may not be really realizing what really the term gain means..
oh man


----------



## chek39

Umrswimr said:


> This is kinda my worry, to be honest. The HC ST screen is advertised at 0.95, but who knows? At 150" and a 20' throw, my 5050ub is going to need a ton of light if the gain turns out to actually be 0.6.
> 
> But for $600, it's almost worth the gamble against an SI Slate 1.2 at $3.4k.


By the way, how was your experience with 5050ub and 150" screen at 20ft throw ? 
How far you sit ? 

I was planning to go for 158" initially with Epson 6050 or NX5 and most of the advises i got here is to stay around 130" to 140" range considering HDR, seating distance, reduce lamp brightness over period etc..


----------



## Cryptic7

Umrswimr said:


> chek39 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am trying to understand basics of gain with advertised gain numbers between different makers
> Lot of posts indicate Stewart screens are best..
> ST130 ... itseems it is as close as 1.3 -- So Stewart screens are perfect and gain numbers match what ever their marketing page showing..
> ST 1.0 grey .. 0.59
> 
> if PJ is using high lumens and with other ambient light controls, 0.59 gain could be showing probably best blacks .. may be this works 120" inch or less screens.. but at the cost of bulb !
> Anything above 130"+ ST grey screens need lot of PJ light (high bulb mode ?) to get satisfied (of coarse other factors like Throw distance etc... ) This is where I am little trouble understanding on overall satisfaction by so many on ST screens... I am referring all this with HDR factors considering
> 
> 
> 
> This is kinda my worry, to be honest. The HC ST screen is advertised at 0.95, but who knows? At 150" and a 20' throw, my 5050ub is going to need a ton of light if the gain turns out to actually be 0.6.
> 
> But for $600, it's almost worth the gamble against an SI Slate 1.2 at $3.4k. /forum/images/smilies/eek.gif
Click to expand...

This screen is for sure less than 0.95 gain, and also has angular gain like any ALR screen even though ST says it is matte. Its definitely a worse material than Slate 1.2: similar black levels but much duller whites, and also more screen texture. But the viewing angle is marginally better, it will hotspot less, and it is WAY cheaper


----------



## kensingtonwick

mdd770 said:


> We bought this screen on Amazon based on the reviews and the needs of the size and format. It certainly delivers.
> 
> The build quality is excellent. There were no instructions! so warning...it ended up being no big deal.
> There is a 4 step list on the Amazon description in the ad for it, listed in the several images attached to the ad. Also there is a high speed build video on you tube that you can follow for it, if you do a search for this screen. In the video there is a cross bar that the 120 inch model doesn't have, and in the video it seems to come in more sections. Maybe the manufacturer made it with solid top and bottom so there was no more need for a center brace.
> 
> When you put the clips in that hold the screen, there are little arrows there for guidance as to where to place them. Use them, BUT don't be afraid to move them slightly here and there, once you are stretching the screen around and anchoring it. They may need to move to match the anchor holes so there is no binding of the material. Don't worry. The surface is flawless in the end.
> 
> Anyway, it took 1hr and 10 mins to build, but if I had to do it again, it would take about 30 mins now that I know how.
> 
> Hanging on the wall was a snap. It has sliding hooks so you can move the whole screen left and right after hanging on wall studs with screws and a level.
> 
> The black borders are really nice, with black velvet to catch any spill-over and it looks very good on the wall.
> 
> The picture quality is stunning in our opinion. We are using the BenQ 1070 projector, (also I highly recommend it too), a completely blacked out theater room, and the combination is awesome.
> I recommend Gamma be set to 2.8 on the 1070 to really get the blacks dialed in.  We immediately invited over some friends who are in the market for a screen, played a snowboarding Blu Ray from Alaska ("The Art of Flight") , and they immediately went home and ordered it. Highly recommend!
> It looks really really good. No problem with colors either.  Very vivid and rich picture in our opinion.
> Hope that helps.




The art of flight is amazing!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Umrswimr

chek39 said:


> By the way, how was your experience with 5050ub and 150" screen at 20ft throw ?
> How far you sit ?
> 
> I was planning to go for 158" initially with Epson 6050 or NX5 and most of the advises i got here is to stay around 130" to 140" range considering HDR, seating distance, reduce lamp brightness over period etc..


I'll let you know once it's installed, I guess. I haven't pulled the trigger yet because I haven't decided on a screen. Maybe I'll order everything else and save the screen for last.

I'll have two rows: 11.5' and 19' in a 16x25' room with 10' ceilings. Planning 7.1.4 since I don't really trust the 13 channel pre/pro offerings out there right now- too many bugs.


----------



## jer181

Dave in Green said:


> At the price ST is asking, their new ALR material better be impressive. Their msrp for a 120" screen is a budget-melting $4,499.98 with current sale price of $2,259.98. If you dig deep enough into their website they do have at least a brief description of this new material:


I was one of the 1st to get this screen a couple years ago. I had ordered the standard AT screen and was having major problems with it so they sent this screen they were thinking about putting into production. They sent it as replacement for the same price, I couldn't be happier as its a great product.


----------



## chek39

I don't know how to measure gains and don't have meters

what are the real measured gains for Elite Screens ?

Cinewhite with 1.1
Cinegray 3d with 1.2
Cinegray with 1.0

Thanks


----------



## noob00224

chek39 said:


> I don't know how to measure gains and don't have meters
> 
> what are the real measured gains for Elite Screens ?
> 
> Cinewhite with 1.1
> Cinegray 3d with 1.2
> Cinegray with 1.0
> 
> Thanks


1.0
0.7
Hasn't been measured, but I think it's ~0.5


----------



## filmgeek47

Recently built a DIY screen with the silver ticket 1.3 raw material and I’m having a frustrating issue. I’m not sure what term to use for it, but when projecting a bright uniform moving image (I.e sky, pan across fire etc) I get a weird artifacting, similar to looking at a smartphone screen that’s been smudged by finger prints. Now that I’ve seen it it’s all I can see. Already took the screen down and pulled the material tighter, but it’s still there. Also idiot checked myself and cleaned the projector lens.

Silver ticket suggested I’m just seeing the “uniformity” of my projector. Any suggestions? Might I be happier with something like Carl’s flexi-white? Is this a common issue with screens?

I’m close to the minimum throw distance (around 13’ to a 118” screen), but I can’t really go closer or farther as my PJ is mounted in a custom hush box and I’m at the limits of my space.


----------



## noob00224

filmgeek47 said:


> Recently built a DIY screen with the silver ticket 1.3 raw material and I’m having a frustrating issue. I’m not sure what term to use for it, but when projecting a bright uniform moving image (I.e sky, pan across fire etc) I get a weird artifacting, similar to looking at a smartphone screen that’s been smudged by finger prints. Now that I’ve seen it it’s all I can see. Already took the screen down and pulled the material tighter, but it’s still there. Also idiot checked myself and cleaned the projector lens.
> 
> Silver ticket suggested I’m just seeing the “uniformity” of my projector. Any suggestions? Might I be happier with something like Carl’s flexi-white? Is this a common issue with screens?
> 
> I’m close to the minimum throw distance (around 13’ to a 118” screen), but I can’t really go closer or farther as my PJ is mounted in a custom hush box and I’m at the limits of my space.


It might be banding:
https://www.google.com/search?q=ban...hUKEwjg05ziiKHoAhVO0YUKHe2lA14Q_AUoAHoECAEQAA


Pause the video where it happens, and put a white piece of paper over it. 

You can also move the projector slightly/lens shift and see if the artifact remains on the screen or it moves with the image.


----------



## Dominic Chan

filmgeek47 said:


> Recently built a DIY screen with the silver ticket 1.3 raw material and I’m having a frustrating issue. I’m not sure what term to use for it, but when projecting a bright uniform moving image (I.e sky, pan across fire etc) I get a weird artifacting, similar to looking at a smartphone screen that’s been smudged by finger prints. Now that I’ve seen it it’s all I can see. Already took the screen down and pulled the material tighter, but it’s still there. Also idiot checked myself and cleaned the projector lens.
> 
> Silver ticket suggested I’m just seeing the “uniformity” of my projector. Any suggestions? Might I be happier with something like Carl’s flexi-white? Is this a common issue with screens?
> 
> I’m close to the minimum throw distance (around 13’ to a 118” screen), but I can’t really go closer or farther as my PJ is mounted in a custom hush box and I’m at the limits of my space.


Interesting. Here are some excerpts of email exchanges I had with Silver Ticket in *December 2015*:

Me:


> I noticed that there is some "hotspotting", i.e., a brighter spot that corresponds to the direct reflection the of projector light. I somewhat expected this for screen material with higher gain, and don't consider this, by itself, to be a "problem".
> 
> However, wherever the hotspot lands on the screen, it also shows some *uneven patterns on the screen*. The patterns are not visible outside the hotspot. When viewing from a different angle, the hotspot moves to a different part on the screen (again, to be expected), and similar patterns will be visible at that part of the screen.


ST:


> The production staff required me to stress to you that the material is delicate and to be sure to handle it with care when working with it. They are convinced that the marks are a result of scuffing from when you were building it since we sell lots and lots of this material without any issues like this.


Me:


> I cannot rule out the possibility of the marks being caused by handling during the construction, but as mentioned previous, I would expect that kind of damage to be more random in pattern, and also not all over the screen. In any case, when I receive the replacement I will check it using the projector light before I construct the pockets, as the marks are not visible under normal lighting.





> *I turned the screen material around to use the other side* as the viewing side. There are one or two scuffs and other marks as I was not trying to protect that side during construction, but *there is none of the other marks like those shown in my picture*.
> 
> Thus it seems to me there is a "good" side and a "bad" side of the material, even though they look extremely similar under normal lighting. It would help if the the factory marks the intended viewing side. Should I assume that side that faces "in" (towards the middle of the roll) is the viewing side?


ST:


> I just heard back that our staff does usually mark with a label which side is the back


----------



## filmgeek47

Dominic Chan said:


> Interesting. Here are some excerpts of email exchanges I had with Silver Ticket in *December 2015*:
> 
> Me:
> 
> 
> ST:
> 
> 
> Me:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ST:


Dominic, do you happen to still have the photo of your issue? 

I pulled my screen off the wall, flipped it over, and leaned it as tight to the wall as possible to mimic the effect of re-stapling and reversing the fabric. I’m pretty sure I used the right side (although they weren’t labeled) as silver ticket told me to use the outside of the roll facing the projector, which I did.

Flipping the screen didn’t seem to have any effect.

Interestingly, when I tested today with samples of Carl’s white, the original 1.0silver ticket white, and Seymour glacier white, only the original silver ticket and GW managed to avoid the issue I’m seeing.

Basically, regardless of screen area, any really bright uniform part of the image kind of sparkles in such a way that you find yourself seeing the screen through the image.

I noticed that if I zoom out so that I’m overshooting more onto the velvet border of my screen the image diminishes considerably.

Is there an optimal range for throw with a projector (ie. Given a choice, do people want to be as close as possible, as far as possible or somewhere in the middle?) I’m weighing trying to remount the projector a couple of inches farther back inside my hushbox to see if that has an effect, but it’d be a real pain to do, so I’d rather avoid it if it seems unlikely to help.


----------



## Dominic Chan

filmgeek47 said:


> Dominic, do you happen to still have the photo of your issue?
> 
> I pulled my screen off the wall, flipped it over, and leaned it as tight to the wall as possible to mimic the effect of re-stapling and reversing the fabric. I’m pretty sure I used the right side (although they weren’t labeled) as silver ticket told me to use the outside of the roll facing the projector, which I did.
> 
> Flipping the screen didn’t seem to have any effect.
> 
> Interestingly, when I tested today with samples of Carl’s white, the original 1.0silver ticket white, and Seymour glacier white, only the original silver ticket and GW managed to avoid the issue I’m seeing.
> 
> Basically, regardless of screen area, any really bright uniform part of the image kind of sparkles in such a way that you find yourself seeing the screen through the image.
> 
> I noticed that if I zoom out so that I’m overshooting more onto the velvet border of my screen the image diminishes considerably.
> 
> Is there an optimal range for throw with a projector (ie. Given a choice, do people want to be as close as possible, as far as possible or somewhere in the middle?) I’m weighing trying to remount the projector a couple of inches farther back inside my hushbox to see if that has an effect, but it’d be a real pain to do, so I’d rather avoid it if it seems unlikely to help.


Sounds like what I saw was a different problem. I would describe it as a "dirty screen effect" which I thought was also what you were describing when you said "similar to looking at a smartphone screen that’s been smudged by finger prints".

However, if you're seeing sparkles, that's something I've not seen with the 1.3 material (but have seen plenty with the Silver Material).

I've attached the photo here but it's hard to see the issue in a photo.

Can you take a close-up picture of the different materials, similar to what I did here:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/3102842-screen-recommendation-jvc-x790r.html#post59004682

In that picture the raw material looks _much _smoother than the matte white, essentially texture-free.


----------



## filmgeek47

Dominic Chan said:


> Sounds like what I saw was a different problem. I would describe it as a "dirty screen effect" which I thought was also what you were describing when you said "similar to looking at a smartphone screen that’s been smudged by finger prints".
> 
> However, if you're seeing sparkles, that's something I've not seen with the 1.3 material (but have seen plenty with the Silver Material).
> 
> I've attached the photo here but it's hard to see the issue in a photo.
> 
> Can you take a close-up picture of the different materials, similar to what I did here:
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/3102842-screen-recommendation-jvc-x790r.html#post59004682
> 
> In that picture the raw material looks _much _smoother than the matte white, essentially texture-free.


Yeah, different issue. Mine is more subtle. It’s not a product of the texture showing up, so much as the screen seeming to sparkle to a distracting degree in the highlights. I’m guessing it’s a result of higher gain material/my sensitivity/ projector being mounted high shooting down and almost as close as the throw range will allow.


----------



## filmgeek47

Here’s a closeup shot. From left to right it’s ST 1.3, GW, and ST 1.0. 

A random thought... could the lack of a black backing be causing my problem (i.e. light from the wall could be bouncing back through the screen? My walls are painted matte navy.

EDIT:
Oops. Forgot to attach.


----------



## Dominic Chan

filmgeek47 said:


> A random thought... could the lack of a black backing be causing my problem (i.e. light from the wall could be bouncing back through the screen? My walls are painted matte navy.


I doubt it. My wall is actually white behind it, as I was previously using the painted wall as the screen. Can you capture the reported problem in a picture?

How are you stretching it? It doesn't work well unless tightly stretched.


----------



## filmgeek47

Dominic Chan said:


> I doubt it. My wall is actually white behind it, as I was previously using the painted wall as the screen. Can you capture the reported problem in a picture?
> 
> How are you stretching it? It doesn't work well unless tightly stretched.


I tried getting a photo but it doesn’t really come out.

I’m yanking and stapling. Pulled it off the wall and re-stapled to get it even tighter. Seemed to help a bit but it’s still present.

What’s your throw distance?


----------



## Dominic Chan

filmgeek47 said:


> I tried getting a photo but it doesn’t really come out.
> 
> I’m yanking and stapling. Pulled it off the wall and re-stapled to get it even tighter. Seemed to help a bit but it’s still present.
> 
> What’s your throw distance?


My throw distance is about 13 feet, but throw distance shouldn’t have any effect other than making the brightness fall off faster off-centre.


----------



## filmgeek47

Just an update for anyone thinking about using this material. I’m embarrassed to admit this, but I finally figured out the issue I was having, and it had nothing to do with the screen material (at least, not directly).

The RS540 is my first pixel shifting projector, and I didn’t realize until swapping screens that with certain settings turned up I can see the shifting happening in very bright content. Turns out the texture in my old screen material was somewhat masking this issue, whereas the smooth material brought it out in full relief. Turning the image enhancement down from 4 to 1 has pretty much eliminated the issue I was seeing, and I’m now back to using the ST 1.3 gain material which I much prefer to the 1.0!

I think there’s a separate issue I can see which is much more subtle that is due to hot spotting (a very slight sheen in the dead center of the screen), but it’s actually less noticeable on the 1.3 material than the 1.0. I’m guessing moving the projector back a bit would resolve that, but with my projector hush box setup I think I’ll just let myself get used to it.

TL;Dr Highly recommend the silver ticket 1.3 raw material if you’re looking to DIY a screen


----------



## Laserfan

filmgeek47 said:


> ...I’m embarrassed to admit this...


Don't be, what a bizarre thing to come-across. It is much appreciated that you would come-back here and explain thoroughly as you have. Thanks for that.


----------



## Suntan

Hey guys, I've been running my current theater with an aging Panasonic AE3000U projector and a DIY Wilsonart white laminate screen for many years. As the Panny needs a new bulb I have decided that now is a good time to upgrade the theater a little. I just pulled the trigger on a new PJ, and I wanted to look at maybe doing a new screen at the same time.

Question, does anyone have a reference to give in relation to these silver ticket screens, compared to the old Wilsonart laminate that was popular about a decade ago? I'd likely go with the matte white as the theater is dedicated and fully light controlled.

Thanks!


----------



## marchewd

Anyone have the ST 158" 2.35:1 screen with a jvc? I have an RS520 and have been using a custom built 126" 2.35:1 screen in my media room. Just moved and have room for the 158" now. It's totally light controlled, just want to make sure the jvc will be bright enough to fill the screen. 


Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## lizrussspike

Wow @marchewd, pretty darn big screen! I have a 115" 2.35:1 ST screen with a JVC RS420, and it does great for me in my room.


----------



## ipca204

marchewd said:


> Anyone have the ST 158" 2.35:1 screen with a jvc? I have an RS520 and have been using a custom built 126" 2.35:1 screen in my media room. Just moved and have room for the 158" now. It's totally light controlled, just want to make sure the jvc will be bright enough to fill the screen.
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


I have had rs400, rs500 rs520 and now x790 running on my Elite screens 158" 2.35 AT screen for years now. 16x9 material is shown at 126" shot in the middle and I have no complaints about the brightness when watching a movie zoomed out to 158".


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## marchewd

ipca204 said:


> I have had rs400, rs500 rs520 and now x790 running on my Elite screens 158" 2.35 AT screen for years now. 16x9 material is shown at 126" shot in the middle and I have no complaints about the brightness when watching a movie zoomed out to 158".


Awesome! I think I'll pull the trigger once I get everything back up and running. Everything is still all boxed up in the media room at the new house! Thanks so much!! 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## noob00224

marchewd said:


> Anyone have the ST 158" 2.35:1 screen with a jvc? I have an RS520 and have been using a custom built 126" 2.35:1 screen in my media room. Just moved and have room for the 158" now. It's totally light controlled, just want to make sure the jvc will be bright enough to fill the screen.
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Using this calculator the estimates are just at the limit, and that's with a new lamp. Assuming the fabric is 1.0. It's a subjective measure how bright a screen should be.
This is a better measure of what ST fabric's gains really are:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-59.html#post58823388

Depends on where the projector is placed. Going form 100% zoom (closest to the screen) to 0% zoom (furthest away), this model looses 20% of it's brightness.


----------



## marchewd

noob00224 said:


> Using this calculator the estimates are just at the limit, and that's with a new lamp. Assuming the fabric is 1.0. It's a subjective measure how bright a screen should be.
> This is a better measure of what ST fabric's gains really are:
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-59.html#post58823388
> 
> Depends on where the projector is placed. Going form 100% zoom (closest to the screen) to 0% zoom (furthest away), this model looses 20% of it's brightness.


Thanks. It will be in the closer side, probably about 90%+ zoom applied to fill the screen. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

marchewd said:


> Thanks. It will be in the closer side, probably about 90%+ zoom applied to fill the screen.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


This calculator takes all these into consideration:
http://www.webprojectorcalculator.com/


----------



## noob00224

marchewd said:


> Thanks. It will be in the closer side, probably about 90%+ zoom applied to fill the screen.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


I forgot to post the calculator link Dominic posted.

What kind of fabric did you want to use? Acoustic transparent or just standard white?


----------



## marchewd

It's just going to be the cinewhite 1.1 gain

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## noob00224

marchewd said:


> It's just going to be the cinewhite 1.1 gain
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Cinewhite is an Elite Screen fabric.


----------



## marchewd

That's right. Its just the white screen

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## noob00224

marchewd said:


> That's right. Its just the white screen
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Yes, but this is the Silver Ticket thread. Elite Screens is another company.

Cinewhite is the name of an Elite Screens fabric. It's fairly similar to ST's white fabric which is called Matte White.


----------



## marchewd

noob00224 said:


> Yes, but this is the Silver Ticket thread. Elite Screens is another company.
> 
> Cinewhite is the name of an Elite Screens fabric. It's fairly similar to ST's white fabric.


I know. I'm looking at buying the ST 158" 2.35:1 screen for the new house. I was just curious if anyone with a newer JVC in a light controlled media room has had any problems lighting it up. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## rawhit

Has anyone compared their 1.3 gain white material vs the 1.4 gain white material? Tried to search here but may be not doing it right as I am not able to find any info on the 1.4 gain material.
Looking to build a 140" 16:9 screen.


----------



## noob00224

rawhit said:


> Has anyone compared their 1.3 gain white material vs the 1.4 gain white material? Tried to search here but may be not doing it right as I am not able to find any info on the 1.4 gain material.
> Looking to build a 140" 16:9 screen.


What 1.4 gain?

I posted this link a few posts back, and probably on every page:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-59.html#post58823388


----------



## Dominic Chan

noob00224 said:


> What 1.4 gain?


There’s a link to the 1.4 material in rawhit’s post.


----------



## noob00224

Dominic Chan said:


> There’s a link to the 1.4 material in rawhit’s post.


They were camouflaged. So any difference between them? The 1.3 is 50% more expensive.


----------



## Dominic Chan

noob00224 said:


> They were camouflaged. So any difference between them? The 1.3 is 50% more expensive.


The reply from ST is:



> The 1.4 and 1.3 are a little different. They use a different embosser on the viewing side of the material. But it is very close to the same.


They are different sizes. The price is the same per unit area.


----------



## rawhit

So is this a new material recently introduced? It looks similar in all respects to 1.3 gain white except for the gain and smaller size (71x126). 

Also would appreciate if there are any pointers on how to build a screen with these silverticket material. Should I just make a wood frame and stretch/staple over it? Currently using sprayed on blackflame screen paint.


----------



## Dominic Chan

rawhit said:


> So is this a new material recently introduced? It looks similar in all respects to 1.3 gain white except for the gain and smaller size (71x126).
> 
> Also would appreciate if there are any pointers on how to build a screen with these silverticket material. Should I just make a wood frame and stretch/staple over it? Currently using sprayed on blackflame screen paint.


I re-use my previous frame for the matte white. If you’re doing it from scratch there’s lots of useful info in the DIY screen section:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-screen-section/


----------



## rawhit

Dominic Chan said:


> I re-use my previous frame for the matte white. If you’re doing it from scratch there’s lots of useful info in the DIY screen section:
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-screen-section/


Thanks Dominic.

I also sent a mail to Silverticket asking about differences between 1.3 and 1.4 gain and this is what they mentioned


> The materials are very close that the eye wouldn't really be able to tell a difference.
> 
> The materials use a different embosser which makes a slightly different texture on the viewing surface.
> 
> The 1.3 is just a hair smoother than the 1.4, but only a tiny tiny bit difference with that.
> 
> That is what the difference is, and the little difference in gain.


----------



## rawhit

Ordered the 1.3 gain material since its more of a known quantity.
@Dominic Chan - few questions on how to work with this material

 Any pointers on how much to stretch this material when wrapping around the frame?
 Is it material strong enough to handle wrapping around a 90 degree edge or a more rounded edge (quarter round) may be required?

Thanks


----------



## Dominic Chan

rawhit said:


> [*] Any pointers on how much to stretch this material when wrapping around the frame?


As mentioned previously, I have only used it to replace the 1.1 matte white, so the stretching is by using the rods (not around the frame). I sized the material to stretch by about 1/2" when mounted.



> [*] Is it material strong enough to handle wrapping around a 90 degree edge or a more rounded edge (quarter round) may be required?


It's more a matter of flexibility, not strength. The vinyl can easily wrap around a 90 degree edge, however, the sharp corners may make it harder to pull it around the corners to stretch.


----------



## rawhit

Dominic Chan said:


> As mentioned previously, I have only used it to replace the 1.1 matte white, so the stretching is by using the rods (not around the frame). I sized the material to stretch by about 1/2" when mounted.
> 
> 
> It's more a matter of flexibility, not strength. The vinyl can easily wrap around a 90 degree edge, however, the sharp corners may make it harder to pull it around the corners to stretch.


Thanks. That gives me a good idea about how much to stretch. Regarding the frame, I will post any further questions in the DIY section.


----------



## jbnpaul

rawhit said:


> Ordered the 1.3 gain material since its more of a known quantity.
> @Dominic Chan - few questions on how to work with this material
> 
> Any pointers on how much to stretch this material when wrapping around the frame?
> Is it material strong enough to handle wrapping around a 90 degree edge or a more rounded edge (quarter round) may be required?
> 
> Thanks



I haven’t used the material ... but if it is the same as what ships with the screen (I bought the full screen as a set) there probably won’t be enough material to wrap around the screen.

The material has like an inch extra ... but has inbuilt sleeves where you insert a rod and then stretch it into holders. This fits in perfectly in their frame ... but not sure how well this work with a dyi frame. I don’t think you can wrap this around the frame unless you use a smaller frame.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Dominic Chan

jbnpaul said:


> I haven’t used the material ... but if it is the same as what ships with the screen (I bought the full screen as a set) there probably won’t be enough material to wrap around the screen.


The raw material is up to 88”x157” in size.


----------



## rawhit

@jbnpaul
I ordered the much larger size 88x157 than needed for 140" screen (69x122) so there should be enough extra to wrap around. Also ST1.3 gain is only available as raw material and not as finished product which is why trying to DIY the frame.
I did have a 110" silverticket Matte white pre-built screen in the past which I sold as I wanted to go bigger. Currently using a sprayed on silverfire paint.

Cheers


----------



## Dominic Chan

rawhit said:


> Thanks. That gives me a good idea about how much to stretch. Regarding the frame, I will post any further questions in the DIY section.


1/2" was what ST recommended. I checked my notes and I was allowing 1/2" on the short side, 1" on the long side. That was for a 115" 2.35:1 screen.

BTW, shipment to Canada (GTA) took only two days to arrive, really impressive.


----------



## rawhit

Dominic Chan said:


> 1/2" was what ST recommended. I checked my notes and I was allowing 1/2" on the short side, 1" on the long side. That was for a 115" 2.35:1 screen.
> 
> BTW, shipment to Canada (GTA) took only two days to arrive, really impressive.


Thanks. Will be receiving my screen material tomorrow. Have been going through the DIY screens section and have a decent idea about how to build the frame. Also have some Stewart Studiotek 130 samples and plan to compare the gain/grayscale against it using the i1 Display Pro. According to AccucalAv screen reviews ST130 measures at 1.27 gain.


----------



## Dominic Chan

rawhit said:


> Thanks. Will be receiving my screen material tomorrow. Have been going through the DIY screens section and have a decent idea about how to build the frame. Also have some Stewart Studiotek 130 samples and plan to compare the gain/grayscale against it using the i1 Display Pro. According to AccucalAv screen reviews ST130 measures at 1.27 gain.


I will be comparing the ST140 against the ST130.
Note: My ST is Silver Ticket, not Stewart Studiotek. The latter is way beyond my reach, but I’m really interested in seeing your comparison, not just the gain/greyscale, but also the screen texture etc.


----------



## rawhit

Did you get a sample of the 1.4 gain white?
Studiotek 130 is costs more than my projector so definitely out of question. Just happen to have an old sample lying around. This G3 though, G4 supposedly shows even less sparkles


----------



## Dominic Chan

rawhit said:


> Did you get a sample of the 1.4 gain white?


I actually bought the material.


----------



## Dominic Chan

I constructed a new 2:1 aspect ratio frame (well, actually modified a 16:9 frame), and mounted the 1.4 gain material on it. It's very bright - about 25% brighter than the 1.3! This would make the advertised gain match the measured gain.

EDIT 2020-08-27:
After using the screen for a month I continue to be impressed by its brightness. However, I should point out that the 1.4 material exhibits some sparkles that are visible from my seating distance of 13’ (4m) from the screen, but only when displaying very bright scenes. In comparison, the 1.3 material looks smooth and sparkles free, but the gain difference is larger than the nominal values of 1.3 vs 1.4.


----------



## rawhit

Dominic Chan said:


> I constructed a new 2:1 aspect ratio frame (well, actually modified a 16:9 frame), and mounted the 1.4 gain material on it. It's very bright - about 25% brighter than the 1.3! This would make the advertised gain match the measured gain.


Awesome! How big is the frame and some pics please ?

Any early impressions regarding texture, hot-spotting?


----------



## rawhit

@Dominic Chan any update on the ST 1.4 gain material?


----------



## Dominic Chan

I’m very happy with it. When displaying 100% white there is some gain differential as expected, but no obvious hot spots. And if you look _very_ carefully there are some sparkles on pure white, but nothing noticeable with most real scenes. And you certainly can’t beat the gain, which can be seen in the second picture (white paper in centre and at upper left corner.

















Also note the importance of stretching. In the following picture the centre piece is the _same_ material, but it looks visibly darker than the screen. Something to keep in mind when testing screen samples.


----------



## rawhit

Dominic Chan said:


> I’m very happy with it. When displaying 100% white there is some gain differential as expected, but no obvious hot spots. And if you look _very_ carefully there are some sparkles on pure white, but nothing noticeable with most real scenes. And you certainly can’t beat the gain, which can be seen in the second picture (white paper in centre and at upper left corner.


The screen looks awesome! How does the gain compare to ST 1.3 (which I think you measured at 1.11 relative to white paper)?


----------



## Dominic Chan

rawhit said:


> The screen looks awesome! How does the gain compare to ST 1.3 (which I think you measured at 1.11 relative to white paper)?


See my previous post (1891). The forum links seem to point to pages, not specific posts. 








Silver Ticket Screen?


Any pointers on how much to stretch this material when wrapping around the frame? As mentioned previously, I have only used it to replace the 1.1 matte white, so the stretching is by using the rods (not around the frame). I sized the material to stretch by about 1/2" when mounted. Is it...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## rawhit

I was finally able to build the silverticket screen with 1.3 gain material. Haven't had a chance to calibrate the PJ for it yet.


----------



## lizrussspike

What a large and wonderful space @rawhit Nice job on the screen build.


----------



## jbnpaul

@rawhit what are the actual dimensions of the screen?

It looks really nice


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rawhit

lizrussspike said:


> What a large and wonderful space @rawhit Nice job on the screen build.


Thanks  .


jbnpaul said:


> @rawhit what are the actual dimensions of the screen?
> 
> It looks really nice


External dimensions of the frame is 141" diagonal (16:9 format). After attaching the the velvet tapes (also from silverticket), the viewable area is 139"


----------



## rawhit

Quick HCFR readings comparing Silverticket 1.3 gain vs Stewart Studiotek 130 G3 sample (not stretched)


----------



## rawhit

HCFR sample images with studiotek 130 still attached. The projector is an aging Epson 8700ub for what its worth.


----------



## Dominic Chan

rawhit said:


> Quick HCFR readings comparing Silverticket 1.3 gain vs Stewart Studiotek 130 G3 sample (not stretched)


Presumably the readings will be even closer when you re-adjust the RGB balance for each.
Did you notice any differences in smoothness and texture? Looks like it’s quite a bit brighter.


----------



## rawhit

Dominic Chan said:


> Did you notice any differences in smoothness and texture?


There is almost no difference looking at them side by side. Both material seem very smooth and texture free to me. If I look at the very close, I think shiny particles which add to the gain are slightly more visible in Studiotek130. Overall I'm very happy with the silverticket.material


----------



## marchewd

I am thinking about building a new screen. I have a 128" 2.35 screen. I want to go 158". I have a dedicated light controlled media room with a JVC RS520. My current gain is 1.0. I am zoomed out about 95% at 158" with the projector about 15' away from the screen. Would it make sense to get this new ST gain screen or stick with their 1.1 gain since the room is light controlled?

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

marchewd said:


> I am thinking about building a new screen. I have a 128" 2.35 screen. I want to go 158". I have a dedicated light controlled media room with a JVC RS520. My current gain is 1.0. I am zoomed out about 95% at 158" with the projector about 15' away from the screen. Would it make sense to get this new ST gain screen or stick with their 1.1 gain since the room is light controlled?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


I would use the 1.3 gain material, but note that it's only available in raw material.


----------



## marchewd

Ok great! I bought raw material to build my current screen, so that is okay. . I used a French cleat to hang the screen, but what are some other hanging methods that have worked?

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## marchewd

Also, this is the correct material, right?









Silver Ticket Products Reference Series Solid Front Projector Screen Material White - RAW Material 1.3 Gain HDTV 4K / 8K


Material is sold upon request only. Please contact us when it is out of stock. Silver Ticket Products is proud to introduce this USA made high-end front projection material. This material is specifically designed for use as a projection surface and is the same material used by home theater...




www.silverticketproducts.com


----------



## Laserfan

Dominic Chan said:


> I would use the 1.3 gain material, but note that it's only available in raw material.


Apologies as this has likely been covered already, but...if someone (like me) has a ST screen with aluminum border/tracks and fiberglass rods, can you imagine the raw material being sewn on a conventional sewing machine to have pockets for the rods, to be fitted into a stock frame?


----------



## Dominic Chan

Laserfan said:


> Apologies as this has likely been covered already, but...if someone (like me) has a ST screen with aluminum border/tracks and fiberglass rods, can you imagine the raw material being sewn on a conventional sewing machine to have pockets for the rods, to be fitted into a stock frame?


I used the Lepage Heavy Duty Contact Cement to form the "pockets" for the rods.


----------



## Laserfan

Awesome, thanks for telling!


----------



## Thrillho

I just bought the 1.3 material last night to replace my wonderful EluneVision Reference 4k that had an unfortunate dog related mishap. I figure why not try this first at $69USD before I shell out $1k plus on another screen. For this DIY, what's everyone using for tensioning on their frame? I'm thinking staples may not be the best idea and was leaning towards gromets and bungies/elastics?


----------



## Dominic Chan

See post 1910, just above. That’s for a Silver Ticker frame that uses tensioning rod design.

EDIT: The Elunvision 4K Reference also seems to use tentioning rods, according to the assembly instruction. It actually looks remarkably similar to the Silver Ticket screen in construction:



https://elunevision.com/wp-content/uploads/Reference-4K-Fixed.pdf










Silver Ticket 2 3/8" Fixed Frame Installation


Assemble and Install a 6-Piece Silver Ticket Products fixed frame projection screen. Introduction Use this guide to completely assemble and install your Silver Ticket fixed frame screen. Difficulty: Intermediate Time Required: 60 min Recommended Labor: 2 Tools 1 x Allen Wrench (included in...




silver-ticket-products.myshopify.com


----------



## Jarrod S

Dominic, my name is Jarrod. Long time lurker but newly signed up.

I've been reading of your experience with the ST 1.3 grain material. I've had an Epson HC3100 since Jan. 2020. I'm still debating whether I want to go with a 150" AT screen or the 1.1 or 1.3 grain. Reason for such a large screen is due Macular Degineration... so the larger the better in that case. I've ruled out a 120" for this reason. From beaming the projector on a wall I found I can watch a 135" in comfort but prefer the 150". Though I'm still debating whether it may be a tad too large for the room being it's nearly wall to wall. Other than that I'm happy with its size.

Q: Would the 1.3 grain make much difference with home cinema line of projectors?

The setup will be in my living room. Unfortunately due to layout I'm unable to build a dedicated HT room. I only use the projector at night so offending outside light won't be a problem. The ceiling is now white but plan to eventually either repaint or use black velvet to counter the reflection problems. Walls will also be going painted to a more suitable color as well. 

Thank you in advance,

Jarrod


----------



## Dominic Chan

Jarrod S said:


> Q: Would the 1.3 grain make much difference with home cinema line of projectors?


I’m not quite sure what you’re asking. 1.3 gain always make the image brighter than 1.0 gain. If you’ve already tried projecting 150” on the wall then you can decide whether you need the extra brightness. A light colour wall is probably around 0.9 gain.
The 1.3 gain is only available in raw material, but the 1.4 gain is available in finished screen complete with frame, at 135”, 142”, 150”.


----------



## johnkol

I presume the 1.4 gain material is angular-reflective?

Is this also true of the 2.2 gain material?


----------



## Dominic Chan

johnkol said:


> I presume the 1.4 gain material is angular-reflective?
> 
> Is this also true of the 2.2 gain material?


I haven’t tested the 2.2 gain material, but most screens without glass beads are angular reflective.


----------



## AVSero

Has anyone compared the AT screens on silver ticket to the DIY options that many people on here use?

This sounds easier, and it's a couple hundred more. At that price point, I would go silver ticket if the quality (sound and picture) were better. 

But if the screens are better for the DIY options (Millskin / spandex, I think I read about) I might convince myself to venture and do that - Woodworking is not my forte.

Any thoughts?


----------



## WOKNROX

I use the ST woven AT 120" and it looks and sounds very nice.
My center channel speaker is only a few inches behind the screen and there's no deference in sound with or without the screen in front of it.
I think you'll be very happy with it.


----------



## WOKNROX

@Dominic Chan 
I sent you a PM


----------



## Laserfan

AVSero said:


> Has anyone compared the AT screens on silver ticket to the DIY options that many people on here use?
> 
> This sounds easier, and it's a couple hundred more. At that price point, I would go silver ticket if the quality (sound and picture) were better.
> 
> But if the screens are better for the DIY options (Millskin / spandex, I think I read about) I might convince myself to venture and do that - Woodworking is not my forte.
> 
> Any thoughts?


Silver Ticket screens are high quality and very inexpensive compared to other options. If you can afford a HT with projector then you can afford a decent screen IMO.



> Woodworking is not my forte.


Re: spandex I think you've answered your own question!


----------



## AVSero

Laserfan said:


> Silver Ticket screens are high quality and very inexpensive compared to other options. If you can afford a HT with projector then you can afford a decent screen IMO.
> 
> 
> 
> Re: spandex I think you've answered your own question!


Thanks for the input.


----------



## Cacitems4sale

I just ordered the 138 inch acoustic transparent ST screen and will arrive Monday. I will be installing In Wall Klipsch 5502’s. Will I need to extend out the screen from the wall for sound purposes or is the thickness of the frame from the wall sufficient?


----------



## Jeff J

Does anyone have first-hand experience with the Silver Ticket 2.2 gain material? Most interested in hot spots or sparkles…

The price on the raw material looks really reasonable cost wise, might have to give this a try.


----------



## WOKNROX

Cacitems4sale said:


> I just ordered the 138 inch acoustic transparent ST screen and will arrive Monday. I will be installing In Wall Klipsch 5502’s. Will I need to extend out the screen from the wall for sound purposes or is the thickness of the frame from the wall sufficient?


If it is the woven material then no, you'll be fine with just a couple of inches of clearance between the back of the screen and front of the speaker/s.

I use the ST woven fabric screen in this manner and it works great.


----------



## Cacitems4sale

WOKNROX said:


> If it is the woven material then no, you'll be fine with just a couple of inches of clearance between the back of the screen and front of the speaker/s.
> 
> I use the ST woven fabric screen in this manner and it works great.


Thanks for the response and makes sense. Yes it is an AT screen. Did you use the black backing? I plan to paint my wall behind the screen dark but debating.


----------



## rolx

Cacitems4sale said:


> Thanks for the response and makes sense. Yes it is an AT screen. Did you use the black backing? I plan to paint my wall behind the screen dark but debating.


From what I have read you will want to paint behind the screen also make sure that your speakers dont have any reflective surfaces as you may see them through the screen.


----------



## Cacitems4sale

rolx said:


> From what I have read you will want to paint behind the screen also make sure that your speakers dont have any reflective surfaces as you may see them through the screen.


Rather than use the black backing? The Klipsch has gold but plan on using the speaker grill.


----------



## rolx

Cacitems4sale said:


> Rather than use the black backing? The Klipsch has gold but plan on using the speaker grill.


Cant say for certain but I am fairly sure that if you use the speaker grill you should be fine. Obviously the black backing on the screen will help. I was mainly referring to painting. I have read several threads where users had to go back and paint because of reflections coming through.


----------



## Cacitems4sale

Ah ok. Does anyone know if the black backing impedes sounds ok the AT screen. If it doesn’t I’ll use the black backing.


----------



## WOKNROX

I painted the wall behind the screen black. I did try the black cloth that comes with the screen but no matter how or what I used to attach it, it kept falling down. So I removed it and just have the black wall. 
I didn't notice any changes in the sound with it without it tho.


----------



## Thrillho

So I got my Silver Ticket 1.3 setup yesterday, I ended up making a new wooden frame rather than re-using the frame from my Elunevision. I have to say I am extremely impressed with this material for what it costs. It is every bit as smooth and texture free as my elune reference 4K was. There is no loss of sharpness whatsoever.


----------



## johnkol

Thrillho said:


> So I got my Silver Ticket 1.3 setup yesterday, I ended up making a new wooden frame rather than re-using the frame from my Elunevision. I have to say I am extremely impressed with this material for what it costs. It is every bit as smooth and texture free as my elune reference 4K was. There is no loss of sharpness whatsoever.


No hot spots either?

What throw ratio are you using?


----------



## Thrillho

No hot spots, no sparklies. I'm running a JVC X770R (RS520) with zoom maxed out, 108" diagonal from about 11' (I'm very limited by the geometry of my room).


----------



## johnkol

Thrillho said:


> No hot spots, no sparklies. I'm running a JVC X770R (RS520) with zoom maxed out, 108" diagonal from about 11' (I'm very limited by the geometry of my room).


That's a throw ratio of 1.44; good to know, thanks.


----------



## Dilt T

Thrillho said:


> So I got my Silver Ticket 1.3 setup yesterday, I ended up making a new wooden frame rather than re-using the frame from my Elunevision. I have to say I am extremely impressed with this material for what it costs. It is every bit as smooth and texture free as my elune reference 4K was. There is no loss of sharpness whatsoever.


May I ask how you did your frame?

I purchased the same material and trying to figure out what works.

The material itself seems fragile to me so I'm worried about using staples to attach to a frame. Considering using grommets but would like some input from someone who's done it.

Thanks


----------



## Thrillho

Dilt T said:


> May I ask how you did your frame?
> 
> I purchased the same material and trying to figure out what works.
> 
> The material itself seems fragile to me so I'm worried about using staples to attach to a frame. Considering using grommets but would like some input from someone who's done it.
> 
> Thanks


I stapled. Make sure the staples are parallel to the edge and space them very close. I did a staple every inch or so all the way around. I started in the middle of a long side and did about a foot and the went to the opposite, stretched as hard as I could and did the same (don’t cut the excess off until you’re done, it’s easier to stretch if you can fold and grip a handful). Then I did the same to the short sides and then worked my way around doing about a foot at a time before moving to an opposing side.


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

I did a write-up for HTF with my experience with the Silver Ticket 125" 2.35:1 WVS AT screen. Going AT let me also go 2.35:1 while only losing ~3" of 16:9 screen size... I had to give up my B&W towers and center, but the Monolith THX-LCR in-walls I replaced them with haven't disappointed either. As for the screen, it's absolutely top-notch considering the price and 2.35:1 still being a niche offering. Only complaint, more for non-DIY folks than myself, is the printed instructions are useless... though ST's YouTube video instructions more than makeup for that. 









Silver Ticket WVS Acoustically Transparent Screen Review


Silver Ticket WVS 125" 2.35:1 Acoustically Transparent Screen Review • Hardware Reviews • Home Theater Forum




www.hometheaterforum.com













Monolith THX-LCR In-Wall THX-ULTRA by Monoprice Speaker Review


Home Theater Forum • The Monolith THX-LCR In-Wall THX-ULTRA Speakeris is a capable hometheater-focused speaker with excellent dynamics.




www.hometheaterforum.com


----------



## Vagrant_Ronin

Hey guys,

Instead of starting a new thread, thought might be better to post in here.

I'm thinking of picking up a 135" 16:9 Silver Ticket screen. I currently have a 120" Fixed Draper 16:9 white screen of unknown gain since it was given to me. I'm planning to upgrade my projector from a 65ES to a NX5 and thought maybe I should increase the screen size.

My projector sits about 15' from the screen. My seating is 10' from the screen. It's a completely light controlled basement room with dark grey painted walls. I'm a little confused with screens with the white vs silver, gain, etc. Can you all point me in the right direction?


----------



## noob00224

Vagrant_Ronin said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Instead of starting a new thread, thought might be better to post in here.
> 
> I'm thinking of picking up a 135" 16:9 Silver Ticket screen. I currently have a 120" Fixed Draper 16:9 white screen of unknown gain since it was given to me. I'm planning to upgrade my projector from a 65ES to a NX5 and thought maybe I should increase the screen size.
> 
> My projector sits about 15' from the screen. My seating is 10' from the screen. It's a completely light controlled basement room with dark grey painted walls. I'm a little confused with screens with the white vs silver, gain, etc. Can you all point me in the right direction?


If the room is not treated, then treat it.

And the get a stewart screen. Don't cheap out.


----------



## Vagrant_Ronin

noob00224 said:


> If the room is not treated, then treat it.
> 
> And the get a stewart screen. Don't cheap out.


Room has a dark paint. Is that treated?

Which Stewart screen do you recommend?


----------



## noob00224

Vagrant_Ronin said:


> Room has a dark paint. Is that treated?
> 
> Which Stewart screen do you recommend?


Neve or ST130. Both are ~1.2 gain, which benefits the NX series for HDR, always could use more brightness.


----------



## Laserfan

Absolutely get a ST screen if that is what fits your budget. I personally would never spend more, at least not in a light-controlled room.

And if you are a movie watcher, and not TV and/or Sports, then Brightness is overrated. We enjoy even 3D movies (which need lots of light) on our grey ST and they are great.


----------



## Vagrant_Ronin

I’m a movie watcher and a casual gamer. 

How are ST’s acoustic transmission offerings?


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

Scroll back a few pages or click the link in my signature and check out my write-up of the ST WVS acoustically transparent offerings. I've been extremely impressed with both the WVS and the 1.0 Grey, and would still be at 1.5-2x the price


----------



## Alecz

Laserfan said:


> Absolutely get a ST screen if that is what fits your budget. I personally would never spend more, at least not in a light-controlled room.


Didn't read all 97 pages of this thread, so I am not sure if ST stands for SilverTicket or StudioTek, but I think the latter (because searching for "ST130" gives that) which apparently is over $3,000 and I find it odd that you say you wouldn't spend more on a screen in a light-controlled room. Are these screens really that good compared to SilverTicket or EliteScreens which cost 10x less?


----------



## Dominic Chan

Alecz said:


> Didn't read all 97 pages of this thread, so I am not sure if ST stands for SilverTicket or StudioTek, but I think the latter (because searching for "ST130" gives that) which apparently is over $3,000 and I find it odd that you say you wouldn't spend more on a screen in a light-controlled room. Are these screens really that good compared to SilverTicket or EliteScreens which cost 10x less?


This is a Silver Ticket thread, so safe to assume ST stands for that.


----------



## Laserfan

Yes my reference to ST was Silver Ticket.


----------



## TTFORUM

Dominic Chan said:


> *Measured Gains of All Silver Ticket Screen Materials*
> 
> I received the sample kit and measured the gains of each material. The gain measurements are correct in relative terms, but the values are assuming 1.0 for the white paper. The R,G,B percentages are relative to the 1.3 gain raw material, as that's what I calibrated my projector to.
> 
> Material; *Gain*; R,G,B percentages
> Walmart Pen Gear 92 White Paper: *1.00* (reference) 101, 100, 101
> 1.3 Raw Material: *1.11* 100, 100, 100 (reference)
> 1.1 Matte white: *0.99* 98, 100, 101
> 1.0 Matte grey: * 0.59* 95, 100, 106
> 0.95 High Contrast Grey: *0.67* 101, 100, 98
> 1.5 Silver Glossy Side *1.03* 99, 100, 102
> 1.5 Silver Matte Side: *0.66* 99, 100, 102
> 1.1 Woven Acoustic WAB: *0.74* 98, 100, 101


Awesome post. I know its old. However, it seems you chose a 1.3 Raw.

I have the 1.1 matte white with Epson 5050ub in a light controlled environment. It looks really good in most situations, but the black levels drive me a little nuts in darker scenes (think Mandalorian). I'm considering moving to the HC Grey, but am pretty shocked by the amount of drop-off you see here. 

Some questions:

Given the gain of the HC Grey and Matte Grey are similar, would the regular grey be a better choice?
Is the silver glossy side even usable?


----------



## TTFORUM

Umrswimr said:


> I'll let you know once it's installed, I guess. I haven't pulled the trigger yet because I haven't decided on a screen. Maybe I'll order everything else and save the screen for last.
> 
> I'll have two rows: 11.5' and 19' in a 16x25' room with 10' ceilings. Planning 7.1.4 since I don't really trust the 13 channel pre/pro offerings out there right now- too many bugs.


Did you pull the trigger? What are your thoughts?

I've got the Epson 5050UB with the ST white 1.1 with a VERY similar room layout which has good light control. I love it in most situations, but hate the black levels when watching dark movies or scenes (like some of them in Mandalorian). The grey bars in 2:35 drive me a bit nuts too. Considering going to HC Grey, Silver, or Grey, but worried that I'll lose the beautiful whites and colors that I have now on the white. However, I'm thinking that since everything is relative that if I had a whole screen of the darker material that my eyes / brain wouldn't really notice the drop off.


----------



## TTFORUM

Laserfan said:


> I too have good light control, but still chose the High Contrast simply because, after living with a white screen for many years, I wanted to go to the dark side!
> 
> 
> 
> A new UHD TV that I bought has such ultra blacks, I want to try to see similar in my new HT. Only yesterday did I unbox and assemble my STR-235125-HC; what a pleasure that was i.e. the parts & pieces all went together well and the screen material is pretty awesome. I will report-in here when I get the new PJ running.
> 
> EDIT: Put-up the first images from my Sony 385 pj and the results are astonishing. The HC material is somewhat disconcerting out-of-the-box because it is so grey looking, but put a picture up on it and it is fantastic. Blacks are black and whites are white; no anomalies that I can detect. Glad I went with Silver Ticket and the High Contrast material.


Still happy with the HC Grey? How is the hot spotting? In other rooms I have an OLED TV and a Sony bravia 900f. I know I'll never achieve those levels of black, but they do set a pretty high bar that makes projector black levels hard to accept.


----------



## Dominic Chan

TTFORUM said:


> Awesome post. I know its old. However, it seems you chose a 1.3 Raw.
> 
> I have the 1.1 matte white with Epson 5050ub in a light controlled environment. It looks really good in most situations, but the black levels drive me a little nuts in darker scenes (think Mandalorian). I'm considering moving to the HC Grey, but am pretty shocked by the amount of drop-off you see here.
> 
> Some questions:
> 
> Given the gain of the HC Grey and Matte Grey are similar, would the regular grey be a better choice?
> Is the silver glossy side even usable?


A grey screen can improve poor black levels resulting from non-ideal rooms. It will not improve the black level of projectors that are lacking in black levels.


----------



## Laserfan

TTFORUM said:


> Still happy with the HC Grey? How is the hot spotting? In other rooms I have an OLED TV and a Sony bravia 900f. I know I'll never achieve those levels of black, but they do set a pretty high bar that makes projector black levels hard to accept.


Yes, very, very happy. No hotspotting whatsoever. I'd gotten the HC cuz I came from "paper white" and an old PJ that just did dirty grey. My Sony 385ES is awesome, and now I really enjoy space epics including 3D like "Gravity".

We're planning on building an addition to our vaca home that will have a LR that needs a TV and I will likely get an 8K Samsung. Wifey won't let me spend $50K but I'll try to get an 85"er anyway.

But my HT is the ultimate (for me) re: "Movie Theater in the Home" which btw is all I watch there except for a few concert-type programs. No sports or TV where bigtime Pop is needed.


----------



## TTFORUM

Dominic Chan said:


> *Measured Gains of All Silver Ticket Screen Materials*
> 
> I received the sample kit and measured the gains of each material. The gain measurements are correct in relative terms, but the values are assuming 1.0 for the white paper. The R,G,B percentages are relative to the 1.3 gain raw material, as that's what I calibrated my projector to.
> 
> Material; *Gain*; R,G,B percentages
> Walmart Pen Gear 92 White Paper: *1.00* (reference) 101, 100, 101
> 1.3 Raw Material: *1.11* 100, 100, 100 (reference)
> 1.1 Matte white: *0.99* 98, 100, 101
> 1.0 Matte grey: * 0.59* 95, 100, 106
> 0.95 High Contrast Grey: *0.67* 101, 100, 98
> 1.5 Silver Glossy Side *1.03* 99, 100, 102
> 1.5 Silver Matte Side: *0.66* 99, 100, 102
> 1.1 Woven Acoustic WAB: *0.74* 98, 100, 101


Start by saying, still a great post Dominic that has brought in a lot of discussion.

I contacted Silver Ticket a number of times about screens and they have been absolutely fantastic to work with. I've been talking to them about exchanging my Matte White for a different screen since I'm still in the 30 day return window - way better than just returning to Amazon and buying another. I sent emails to Elite Screens, Carl's, Screen Innovations, and Silver Ticket. Silver Ticket has responded every single time within hours. The others took days, except for elite who still hasn't responded.

Anyway, in my most recent email I pointed them to your post and asked them why your measured gains differ from their website. The following is what they responded:

_"The gains do fluctuate in production, but not to the extremes that many people say. But we get people who say they are too bright and people who say they are right on, and people who say they are too low. Many people use cell phone apps or little cheap light meters. Many times the standard they use is not a real standard. They use something white that is not made as a reference. Our testing is done with special white blocks that are 1.0 standard and that is how it is done. The blocks and tools we use are in the $30,000 plus range. Plus special rooms for testing. Many times people are using their projector for their light source and the light can greatly fluctuate from second to second. When they read one material they could be right on and the next material it can change greatly. We use special lighting that doesn't fluctuate as well."_

So, I'm curious about what equipment you used for your measurements?



Dominic Chan said:


> Note also that the matte materials have the same gains over a wide viewing angle, whereas the gains for other materials fall off rapidly off centre (hotspotting):


Using my obviously flawed method I definitely can confirm that the different materials have different viewing angles.

In the following screenshots I have the Silver (left), Matte Gray (Middle), HC Grey (Right) samples. You can see as I rotate the samples that the Silver and HC Grey turn dark while the Matte Gray continues to reflect light normally. Please note that I was obviously bending the samples which affects the picture, but you can still see the affect.

All of these are taken with me holding them up to my matte white screen (ST). I also had the matte white sample, but there was not point in showing it as it looks exactly like the backing screen now matter how I hold it.





















Note: I will post more pics of my comparisons in a follow-on. However, all of that said, from direct on, all of the materials look really good. Trying to judge the impact of viewing angle with the 8.5 x 11" sample is difficult and I'm hoping I can get some info back from Silver Ticket about their measured viewing angles.


----------



## sdeepak

Dominic Chan said:


> *Measured Gains of All Silver Ticket Screen Materials*
> 
> I received the sample kit and measured the gains of each material. The gain measurements are correct in relative terms, but the values are assuming 1.0 for the white paper. The R,G,B percentages are relative to the 1.3 gain raw material, as that's what I calibrated my projector to.
> 
> Material; *Gain*; R,G,B percentages
> Walmart Pen Gear 92 White Paper: *1.00* (reference) 101, 100, 101
> 1.3 Raw Material: *1.11* 100, 100, 100 (reference)
> 1.1 Matte white: *0.99* 98, 100, 101
> 1.0 Matte grey: * 0.59* 95, 100, 106
> 0.95 High Contrast Grey: *0.67* 101, 100, 98
> 1.5 Silver Glossy Side *1.03* 99, 100, 102
> 1.5 Silver Matte Side: *0.66* 99, 100, 102
> 1.1 Woven Acoustic WAB: *0.74* 98, 100, 101
> 
> Not surprisingly, the measured gains are less than the rated values, some significantly so. The worst one is the Silver material - 0.66 vs 1.5 for the matte side which supposedly is the front.
> 
> Note also that the matte materials have the same gains over a wide viewing angle, whereas the gains for other materials fall off rapidly off centre (hotspotting):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have also posted a picture comparing the smoothness of the 1.3 with the 1.1:
> Screen Recommendation for JVC X790R


@Dominic Chan Thanks for putting this out..
What are your thoughts on WAB 120" screen with JVC RS420?. I have a light controlled room, at .74 measured gain i don't want to loose brightness. Thanks !


----------



## Dominic Chan

TTFORUM said:


> So, I'm curious about what equipment you used for your measurements?


My previous post, the one that you quoted, already clarified that


> The gain measurements are correct *in relative terms*, but the values are *assuming 1.0 for the white paper*.


and was elaborated in another post








Guide: Building a 4K HTPC for madVR


What would a known/certified/measured 1.0 surface be? A sample of a measured screen fabric? I'd say the closest reference material would be stewart ST100 studiotek - you can get a free sample from stewart's website in contact section.




www.avsforum.com







> Using my obviously flawed method I definitely can confirm that the different materials have different viewing angles.
> 
> In the following screenshots I have the Silver (left), Matte Gray (Middle), HC Grey (Right) samples. You can see as I rotate the samples that the Silver and HC Grey turn dark while the Matte Gray continues to reflect light normally. Please note that I was obviously bending the samples which affects the picture, but you can still see the affect.


The significant variation in the viewing angles was also mentioned in my previous post:


> Note also that the matte materials have the same gains over a wide viewing angle, whereas the gains for other materials fall off rapidly off centre (hotspotting):


----------



## TTFORUM

Thanks for sharing your other post as well! It was interesting to see some of the information about the type of equipment used. It would be really great if there was a third party certification lab which regulated the claims and measurements. Perhaps r8tings.com will start doing that for projector screens someday. With UST projectors going mainstream I wouldn't be surprised if that happens soon.



Dominic Chan said:


> The significant variation in the viewing angles was also mentioned in my previous post:
> 
> View attachment 3062971


Yep, that's why I also quoted that before sharing some additional pics which also demonstrate the drop off. 😉


----------



## sdeepak

Anyone here used WVB or WVC screen material with RS420? Looking for your feedback especially on HDR brightness


----------



## jijith

Hi,
I am interested in a Silver Ticket 150” screen. I have a dedicated media room with no windows and the room is quite dark. I have a Vava 4K US projector and I would be mainly using it to watch movies. The wall and ceiling of the media room are painted in creamish brown color (repainting is not a option). Which screen type and material I should be looking for? I read somewhere that only White and Grey are suitable for UST projection and Silver and High Contrast are not recommended.


----------



## rtart

Hi friends,
I was an early adopter of Silver Ticket screens...I bought a 120" AT screen in September of 2015. (My review is in this thread, I think.) I have the 'original' WAB fabric, but understand that the newer WVS has a tighter weave. I've upgraded my PJ from a JVC-RS46 to a RS-520 (faux 4-k) since then. Anyone have any experience with both fabrics that can give me some advice on whether to buy a new screen fabric in the WVS?


----------



## jgsieve

I ended up going with a 135” qualgear AT from Amazon, it was open box for $130! I was skeptical but holy shot is it great! I put black felt behind the screen and felt tape on the crossbar and I am blown away, no moire at 1080/fauxK. I know this doesn’t help you much but it’s great.


----------



## Technology3456

In considering a 110 Silver Ticket screen. Can anyone tell me, does viewing distance sensitivity stay constant the bigger and further back you go, or does it become more or less forgiving?

In other words, just for an easy example, if sitting 10 feet from a 12 foot (16:9) screen bothered you, then is it automatic that sitting 100 feet from a 120 foot (16:9) screen would also bother you, or even though it's the same ratio, does it become more or less forgiving as the distance and size increase?


----------



## Technology3456

TTFORUM said:


> Awesome post. I know its old. However, it seems you chose a 1.3 Raw.
> 
> I have the 1.1 matte white with Epson 5050ub in a light controlled environment. It looks really good in most situations, but the black levels drive me a little nuts in darker scenes (think Mandalorian). I'm considering moving to the HC Grey, but am pretty shocked by the amount of drop-off you see here.
> 
> Some questions:
> 
> Given the gain of the HC Grey and Matte Grey are similar, would the regular grey be a better choice?
> Is the silver glossy side even usable?


Are you saying the Silver Ticket white material is responsible for bad blacks, or is it your room not being treated? I was told the ST 1.1 white is the same as the 1.0 elite white most likely, in other words it is neutral and should not negatively affect black levels of the projector. Is this not the case?


----------



## TTFORUM

Technology3456 said:


> Are you saying the Silver Ticket white material is responsible for bad blacks, or is it your room not being treated? I was told the ST 1.1 white is the same as the 1.0 elite white most likely, in other words it is neutral and should not negatively affect black levels of the projector. Is this not the case?


I have a 85% treated room*. I ended up switching to the SilverTicket HC Grey and I am a LOT happier. The blacks are great now. The downside is that it is definitely a bit dimmer and I have to crank up the HDR setting for HDR content to get more brightness. However, I've stopped obsessing over the lack of blacks and am enjoying my theater a lot more. In fact, on most widescreen content I don't even notice the black bars anymore because they are actually black.

* Treatment:

I painted my ceiling with Sherwin Williams Tricorn Black
My walls are a fairly dark grey
I have total light control at night
I have about 80% light control during the day


----------



## Technology3456

TTFORUM said:


> I have a 85% treated room*. I ended up switching to the SilverTicket HC Grey and I am a LOT happier. The blacks are great now. The downside is that it is definitely a bit dimmer and I have to crank up the HDR setting for HDR content to get more brightness. However, I've stopped obsessing over the lack of blacks and am enjoying my theater a lot more. In fact, on most widescreen content I don't even notice the black bars anymore because they are actually black.
> 
> * Treatment:
> 
> I painted my ceiling with Sherwin Williams Tricorn Black
> My walls are a fairly dark grey
> I have total light control at night
> I have about 80% light control during the day


Thanks for the advice. Im not sure that's 85% treated though. You had me worried that even 85% treated wouldnt do much good if it's not 100%, but your description is probably not 85% treated. I read that paint doesnt really do it even 25% like black velvet fabric, for example. But your room is much more treated than mine atm... lol. If its enough that the black bars blend in, then yeah that's the most important thing, that you can enjoy it without distraction.


----------



## John Petersen

Stephen Hopkins said:


> Scroll back a few pages or click the link in my signature and check out my write-up of the ST WVS acoustically transparent offerings. I've been extremely impressed with both the WVS and the 1.0 Grey, and would still be at 1.5-2x the price


I read your review. Great write-up! Were you able to compare the WAB and WVS side-by-side? I currently have the 120" WAB screen, and I'm quite happy with it for my 1080p projector. However, I am looking to upgrade to 4k soon. Would you say there is a big enough difference to warrant an upgrade from WAB to WVS? Silver Ticket has said that they are willing to sell me just the material as an upgrade for my existing frame, but they haven't gotten back to me with a price yet.


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

I held them up side-by-side and could barely tell the difference. I'd wait until you upgrade the projector and see how it looks on the WAB... But I'm fairly certain you'd see little, if any, difference between the two. I'm pretty sure they just sent me both for the review since they already had the WAB packaged on the shelf and were just spooling up on the WVS material.


----------



## rtart

Very interesting Stephen H. ^^ 

I, too, have a 120" 16x9 AT screen (WAB) that I bought in 2015. Wondered if swapping the cloth to the WVS fabric was worth doing, since I have upgraded to a JVC faux-4k projector. ST quoted me $360 for the cloth, but didn't really share much of an opinion about whether or not the difference would justify the cost. I didn't do it, since that was a big chunk of the price of a new screen.


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

Back when I did the review, they didn't have much to say about the differences between the two either. It's almost like it's a dual-source situation... they have two suppliers so that one or the other is always in stock, and one just happens to cost a bit more than the other. This is PURE speculation, but it's odd that they didn't give either of us a compelling breakdown of the differences between the two.


----------



## saipanda

I'm looking at the Silver Ticket AT--I will be sitting around 12 feet away and likely using a LG Cinebeam HU810P. I suspect the Silver Ticket will be sufficient. But, if I change my mind, does anyone have any experience using the Silver Ticket frame and replacing it with Seymour AT fabric? Is that feasible?


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

saipanda said:


> ...does anyone have any experience using the Silver Ticket frame and replacing it with Seymour AT fabric? Is that feasible?


It would be difficult... the ST is folded/welted at the edges with a fiberglass rod that hooks on springs connected to the frame. That said, at ~12' with an Epson 4000, the WVS looks like a solid screen... the weave isn't visible at all. From a quick eye-test comparison, I couldn't tell the difference between the WAB and WVS either.


----------



## saipanda

Stephen Hopkins said:


> It would be difficult... the ST is folded/welted at the edges with a fiberglass rod that hooks on springs connected to the frame. That said, at ~12' with an Epson 4000, the WVS looks like a solid screen... the weave isn't visible at all. From a quick eye-test comparison, I couldn't tell the difference between the WAB and WVS either.


The seymour can be manufactured with grommets. I wonder if the grommets could take the place of the folded edges; you could connect the springs through the holes.


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

saipanda said:


> The seymour can be manufactured with grommets. I wonder if the grommets could take the place of the folded edges; you could connect the springs through the holes.


Possibly, but they would need to be pretty small grommets to catch the springs AND be hidden under the screen border.


----------



## AlphaPie

I am about to order silver tickets 135" AT woven screen. Anyone here using that specific screen?


----------



## SteveCallas

AlphaPie said:


> I am about to order silver tickets 135" AT woven screen. Anyone here using that specific screen?


I’ve got the 142” AT 2.35:1 - love it, no regrets


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

I have the 128" 2.35:1 WVS AT and it's phenomenal... See my review here:









Silver Ticket WVS Acoustically Transparent Screen Review


Silver Ticket WVS 125" 2.35:1 Acoustically Transparent Screen Review • Hardware Reviews • Home Theater Forum



www.hometheaterforum.com


----------



## chupp7711

Hi I'm relatively new here and looking to upgrade my current media room. The room is 18'W x 24' L and am upgrading from a Sony HW40ES with a 120" 16:0 Screen to a 138" SilverTicket 2.35:1 screen. I really like the widescreen effect, but am torn over the projector to purchase. I've got a co worker that is selling his JVC RS440 which I know has better blacks for a great price and the Epson 5050UB. Currently, I know the Epson has greater lumens than the JVC, but I don't want to give up the contrast the JVC brings. I mainly stream by BluRay collection via Plex so it's mainly SDR content, but I have a few 4K movies that are in HDR. Since the current projector is 17' away from the screen will the RS440 as issues with HDR and it's brightness? I know I can get an Oppo or Panasonic BluRay but I'd rather stream the content. Also, I've heard that Plex offers Tone Mapping for HDR which should help on the brightness but it's still in Beta. 

Should I go with the RS440 or just save for the NX5 that has built in tone mapping or is the 5050UB the best option since the screen is so large?


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

I'd think his asking price on the JVC might play a role in the decision, as would light control and wall/ceiling/carpet color. 

Calibrated and in high lamp mode, the JVC can do ~18FL in 2.35:1 and ~41FL in 16:9 (both 54" tall and at 17' throw). The Epson is definitely more, ~25 and ~44FL calibrated and in high-lamp, but I don't think you'll want to put up with the noise of the Epson in high lamp mode (I can't comment on the JVC). In low lamp mode, the Epson is ~15FL and ~26FL. If the JVC is equally as loud as the Epson in high lamp mode, you're down to ~14FL and ~24FL in low lamp mode. 

By comparison, I'm getting ~17FL and 26FL respectively from my Epson 4000 on 128" 2.35:1 at ~13.5' in a room with black walls and a black ceiling pitch extending ~2' over the screen, but white walls and beige carpet. I notice the brightness drop as it transitions from 16:9 to 2.35:1, but it's not something I ever think about once I'm watching a film. I also never think to myself the 2.35:1 image isn't bright enough, and that's in a room that has much of the light control issues addressed (black walls, black pitched ceiling over the screen, highly effective blackout curtains) but still with some notable areas not addressed (light carpet, light ceiling). This would lead me to believe you likely wouldn't be disappointed by the JVC's brightness... assuming the price is right.


----------



## Cacitems4sale

AlphaPie said:


> I am about to order silver tickets 135" AT woven screen. Anyone here using that specific screen?


I have that specific screen and love it, though I have nothing to compare it to. Currently using the Epson 6050 in a light controlled room.


----------



## PerryH

Any thoughts on why the thin bezel screens are so much more (2x or more) than the standard ones?

Is that just a volume thing or are you buying something more robust or difficult to manufacture?


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

They're popular for some reason...


----------



## MississippiMan

PerryH said:


> Any thoughts on why the thin bezel screens are so much more (2x or more) than the standard ones?
> 
> Is that just a volume thing or are you buying something more robust or difficult to manufacture?


It's a custom design that is highly coveted, hence the price is geared toward the specialized demand. It is not lost on the folks at Silver Ticket that "Zero Edged" screens go out the doors of other Mfg at premium prices.

As to if there are any "build related" costs that factor into things, I cannot say. But FYI we have been designing and building Zero Edged DIY screens looooooong before they were offered by Screen Mfg. (2005-6) And specifically ones that ad bias LED edge lighting.

And you can be certain they do not cost in the same range as any Mfg version....not failing to mention that in DIY there are no real siz eor format limitations.


----------



## MississippiMan

Stephen Hopkins said:


> They're popular for some reason...


For the same reason LED TVs have such narrow edging these days. Between such products having far improved Contrast that does not need any "magical" boost from a Black surround...and more & more Projectors coming with Horizontal & Vertical Lens Shift that eliminates Image framing issues....and the fact that "Thin" minimizes the Visual impact a 2.5" / 3.5" Black surround creates, it's all about lookin' good.


----------



## PerryH

Stephen Hopkins said:


> They're popular for some reason...


In my case it enables me to get an extra few inches out of my wall... or get more spacing between the frame and sides of my front speakers for edge bias lighting if I wanted to do that.

I have space to put up an acoustically transparent screen in front of the speakers, but I am height constrained such that the size of that AT screen could not be much larger (if at all) than a thin bezel version without taking it all the way to the floor. The simplicity of the fixed frame and low cost (at least of the regular frames) makes that route appealing. I can save the AT false wall approach for a later project if I decide that is worth it.

With the thin bezel version of the screen costing twice as much for +7 inches (e.g., 135 vs 128)) ... it makes the decision less clear.

I have made several DIY screens before, but I have enough projects that I was not looking to add to my backlog. I was tackling this now while installing recessed lighting in my theater/rec room - deciding where to put the screen wash lights.


----------



## MississippiMan

@PerryH 

...or accept the additional cost of the Thin Bezel as a affordable tradeoff against the cost and time involved with construction a AT Screen Wall..

That being the case if I'm getting the gist of it all..... that you can get a Thin Bezel AT version of the Silver Ticket. If so you can take comfort in knowing that at the price it comes to you for, it's a bargain compared to anything else AT remotely comparable that you might consider...and there probably isn't anything such that comes with a ultra thin Bezel anyway.

Anyway...with the Silver Ticket you will be getting something ideally suited for your purpose, and essentially that makes it......................priceless.


----------



## h4xor1701

I'm going to report my experience here.
Yesterday arrived my brand new Silver Ticket 110" Thin Bezel 16:9 Gray ordered last week from Italy, today started to setup it and found out they sent me the wrong joint bars for top and bottom bar, the joints they sent to me are too big and doesn't fit, maybe they are for a bigger size or standard bezel frame.
So I contacted the support via email with photos of the issue and I'm waiting for a reply.


----------



## curttard

I got a sample of the 1.3 gain material and maybe I'm crazy but the two sides look slightly different. Which is the correct side?


----------



## Dominic Chan

The two sides are indeed slightyly different. When you buy the roll they will mark the front/back sides. For the purpose of “evaluating”, however, I don‘t think it makes much difference.


----------



## h4xor1701

as an update to my previous message they expedite the missing parts to me real quickly. Mounted yesterday, I modified the centre support bar and mounting supports to have it attached to the wall instead to have a 3cm gap.
The matte gray material works really well in my living with light painted walls and contrast is fantastic

Inviato dal mio G8141 utilizzando Tapatalk


----------



## curttard

Dominic Chan said:


> The two sides are indeed slightyly different. When you buy the roll they will mark the front/back sides. For the purpose of “evaluating”, however, I don‘t think it makes much difference.


Thanks. My post was actually an old one on an old tab that I forgot to ever hit Post on. I got the full.material today and put my screen together. It worked out pretty well but I definitely see grain/sparkles. Also pretty significant center hotspot although I can't say I ever notice it in any real content.

My favorite screen material so far has been drywall painted with Glidden GLN9000 -- zero grain, texture, sparkles, coloration, or hotspotting with uniform brightness from corner to corner. I couldn't do that here because of a window, so I needed a frame. Although I suppose I could screw drywall to the frame and paint it...


----------



## MississippiMan

curttard said:


> Thanks. My post was actually an old one on an old tab that I forgot to ever hit Post on. I got the full.material today and put my screen together. It worked out pretty well but I definitely see grain/sparkles. Also pretty significant center hotspot although I can't say I ever notice it in any real content.
> 
> My favorite screen material so far has been drywall painted with Glidden GLN9000 -- zero grain, texture, sparkles, coloration, or hotspotting with uniform brightness from corner to corner. I couldn't do that here because of a window, so I needed a frame. Although I suppose I could screw drywall to the frame and paint it...


You could, or use either Sintra or Flexi-White (Sintra is size dependent to 60" x 120")


----------



## curttard

MississippiMan said:


> You could, or use either Sintra or Flexi-White (Sintra is size dependent to 60" x 120")


I think I'll live with it for now. The grain is only really noticeable in grain-less films which is mostly animated ones, and the hotspotting is only noticeable in test patterns. I think my sample of Flexiwhite had the same issue.

FWIW it's a 126" wide 2.40 screen, projecting from 14', and we're only sitting about 8' away.


----------



## Dominic Chan

curttard said:


> I got a sample of the 1.3 gain material and maybe I'm crazy but the two sides look slightly different. Which is the correct side?


They now have two different materials with 1.3 gain, the White and the ALR? Is your the White?


----------



## curttard

Yes, I got the white 1.3 raw material. I think I'm going to have to just switch the projector to High lamp and go back to blackout cloth, the grain from this screen is killing me.


----------



## ijansch

h4xor1701 said:


> I'm going to report my experience here.
> Yesterday arrived my brand new Silver Ticket 110" Thin Bezel 16:9 Gray ordered last week from Italy, today started to setup it and found out they sent me the wrong joint bars for top and bottom bar, the joints they sent to me are too big and doesn't fit, maybe they are for a bigger size or standard bezel frame.
> So I contacted the support via email with photos of the issue and I'm waiting for a reply.


Was your frame too big or the screen material too small? Or just the joints themselves? I think in my case my screen material runs an inch short. See the pictures in my build thread:
https://www.avsforum.com/threads/the-dutch-confusion-build.3106228/page-10 #post-60964236


----------



## fiogray

Dominic Chan said:


> I have done it and it’s not that hard. You just need to Cut it to size and make the “pockets”.


Dominic,

what about the stretching needed on the 1.3 gain material? if I want to replace the 1.1 using the same frame, should the 1.3 be cut the same size as the 1.1? or their material stretching/flexibility is different that would require to be cut in a somewhat different size (for the same frame)? thanks


----------



## Dominic Chan

fiogray said:


> Dominic,
> 
> what about the stretching needed on the 1.3 gain material? if I want to replace the 1.1 using the same frame, should the 1.3 be cut the same size as the 1.1? or their material stretching/flexibility is different that would require to be cut in a somewhat different size (for the same frame)? thanks


I made the screen material about 1/2" smaller (width and length) than the finished dimension, which seems to work well. I would not recommend over-stretching the material; just enough to make it taut.
The first time I used contact cement; the second time I used double-sided tape which is much easier.


----------



## fiogray

Dominic Chan said:


> I made the screen material about 1/2" smaller (width and length) than the finished dimension, which seems to work well. I would not recommend over-stretching the material; just enough to make it taut.
> The first time I used contact cement; the second time I used double-sided tape which is much easier.


Awesome, thank you. So when you say the second time you used double-sided tape, does that mean you changed the 1.3 to a different material? or why a "second time", just curious.


----------



## Dominic Chan

fiogray said:


> Awesome, thank you. So when you say the second time you used double-sided tape, does that mean you changed the 1.3 to a different material? or why a "second time", just curious.


I was using the 1.4 gain material for a while and switched back to 1.3. The 1.4 is quite a bit brighter but has some sparkles.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Anyone have experience with the fixed or electronic screen with the matte grey fabric?


----------



## squared80

Silver Ticket sells a STT-169135-WVS and an STT-169135-WAB. Both the same besides the screen material.

Now, I suddenly see a *S7*-169135-WVS model. The description is almost exactly the same as the others, but it weighs about half as much as the STT versions.

I reached out to ST, but in the interim, does anyone know what this S7 model is all about?









S7-169135-WVS Silver Ticket Products Thin Bezel, 135" Diagonal, 16:9 Cinema Format, 4K Ultra HD Ready, HDTV (6 Piece Fixed Frame) Projector Screen, WVS Woven Acoustic Material With Black Backing


S7-169135-WVS Silver Ticket Products Thin Bezel, 135" Diagonal, 16:9 Cinema Format, 4K Ultra HD Ready, HDTV (6 Piece Fixed Frame) Projector Screen, WVS Woven Acoustic Material With Black Backing Description Product is a 6 piece 135" Diagonal 16:9 0.28"(7mm) thin bezel fixed frame screen and is...




www.silverticketproducts.com


----------



## Dominic Chan

squared80 said:


> Silver Ticket sells a STT-169135-WVS and an STT-169135-WAB. Both the same besides the screen material.
> 
> Now, I suddenly see a *S7*-169135-WVS model. The description is almost exactly the same as the others, but it weighs about half as much as the STT versions.
> 
> I reached out to ST, but in the interim, does anyone know what this S7 model is all about?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> S7-169135-WVS Silver Ticket Products Thin Bezel, 135" Diagonal, 16:9 Cinema Format, 4K Ultra HD Ready, HDTV (6 Piece Fixed Frame) Projector Screen, WVS Woven Acoustic Material With Black Backing
> 
> 
> S7-169135-WVS Silver Ticket Products Thin Bezel, 135" Diagonal, 16:9 Cinema Format, 4K Ultra HD Ready, HDTV (6 Piece Fixed Frame) Projector Screen, WVS Woven Acoustic Material With Black Backing Description Product is a 6 piece 135" Diagonal 16:9 0.28"(7mm) thin bezel fixed frame screen and is...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.silverticketproducts.com


Looks like S7 stands for 7 mm extra thin bezel, compared with the "regular" STT thin bezel of 10 mm.


----------



## TheDeliverator

Received my S7 Thin Bezel Screen today. The frame is missing the holes for screws to perform the first steps to join the frame pieces.

I've already sent an email to Silver Ticket. Curious if anyone else has experienced this issue.

Images from the install vid of the S7 model.
























Images of the frame I received, all pieces are missing the holes (only attached 2 images)...


















*EDIT*

Silver Ticket Support Replied:

_Thank you for your email 

Someone asked this same question before. 

Those are not holes. Those are just marks in the aluminum from the screws. When they made the video they did many takes. The aluminum frame is black anodized. The screws scratched it making it aluminum color. Those are just marks from the screws. _

*Leaving this here for posterity in case anyone else has the same question.*


----------



## squared80

lol, good to know. I plan on buying the S7, as well.


----------



## Dominic Chan

TheDeliverator said:


> Received my S7 Thin Bezel Screen today. The frame is missing the holes for screws to perform the first steps to join the frame pieces.
> 
> I've already sent an email to Silver Ticket. Curious if anyone else has experienced this issue.
> 
> Images from the install vid of the S7 model.
> 
> View attachment 3213052
> View attachment 3213053
> View attachment 3213054
> 
> 
> Images of the frame I received, all pieces are missing the holes (only attached 2 images)...
> View attachment 3213058
> 
> 
> View attachment 3213059
> 
> 
> *EDIT*
> 
> Silver Ticket Support Replied:
> 
> _Thank you for your email
> 
> Someone asked this same question before.
> 
> Those are not holes. Those are just marks in the aluminum from the screws. When they made the video they did many takes. The aluminum frame is black anodized. The screws scratched it making it aluminum color. Those are just marks from the screws. _
> 
> *Leaving this here for posterity in case anyone else has the same question.*


Without the screws, what's holding the different pieces together?


----------



## Apgood

Dominic Chan said:


> Without the screws, what's holding the different pieces together?


There is a right angle bracket with screw holes that goes into the frame. You then put the screws into the screw holes in the right angle bracket and screw them tight so the right angle bracket is wedged firmly in the frame and holds the frame pieces together.

What they are saying is that screwing tight of the screw leaves a mark on the frame where the black anodisation is rubbed off and that in the photo looks like screw holes in the the frame. This was confusing the OP.

Sent from my SM-N986B using Tapatalk


----------



## normang

TheDeliverator said:


> Received my S7 Thin Bezel Screen today. The frame is missing the holes for screws to perform the first steps to join the frame pieces.


Which S7 Screen did you get? White, Gray, UST? What are you setting it up with out of curiosity? I am looking into these screens as well, and would be interested in feedback from owners..

The reason for the S7 is that reportedly the STR models. which are similar, the thicker Bezel, which the S7 does not have, could leave a shadow on the bottom of the screen when using some or any UST projectors.

I am looking at UST, but if I could save a little by going to the lower cost non UST model screen, that would save some budget, but if the consensus is that getting the S7 UST Version is the best way to go for a UST Projector, any feedback would be helpful.

thanks


----------



## TheDeliverator

A couple of notes for anyone thinking of installing an S7...

Their are Two sizes of 2 hole nuts. The instructions mention this in the list of parts, but not when the Two different sizes are meant to be used. The instruction VIDEO does not mention there are Two different sizes or how\when they are to be used.

In the very *First* assembly step, you will be inserting Two, "2 hole nuts". Make sure you use One of the larger nuts in depicted in the image below (BTW: It will only fit in the noted location), and One of the smaller "2 hole nuts".

The last Two of the smaller "2 hole nuts", are used in the *LAST* assembly step when attaching the Thin Bezel frame.

I used Two of the smaller nuts in the first step and was unable to insert the larger "2 hole nuts", into the Thin Bezel frame.

This meant I had basically disassemble the frame and begin again. *DON'T BE ME!!!*













normang said:


> Which S7 Screen did you get? White, Gray, UST? What are you setting it up with out of curiosity? I am looking into these screens as well, and would be interested in feedback from owners..


I purchased the matte white.

Not using a UST. Throw distance is around 14 feet.

You may be able to accomplish using a UST with this screen (The bezel is super thin), but I CANNOT say for certain. Especially since I do not really understand how UST screens are designed.

Happy to help out if you have more questions.

*EDIT*

Silver Ticket has multiple vids for setup of the various S7 models\size range. I was initially looking at the video for the setup with Acoustic Transparent material. _This does not affect the usage of the "2 Hole Nuts"._

Setup vid for the White and Grey materials below.
White and Grey

Setup vid for the WAB, WVS & AGP materials below.
WAB, WVS & AGP


----------



## normang

TheDeliverator said:


> I purchased the matte white.
> 
> Not using a UST. Throw distance is around 14 feet.
> 
> You may be able to accomplish using a UST with this screen (The bezel is super thin), but I CANNOT say for certain. Especially since I do not really understand how UST screens are designed.
> 
> Happy to help out if you have more questions.


 Thanks for the feedback, I understand if you have a regular throw projector, that its hard to cross the gap into UST.. 

I guess in your situation the only other question I'd have, crossing probably into speculation on your part, and that is, did you decide on matte white because of your specific setup, over say a gray screen, which I thought in most cases might enhance blacks and contrast over the white? Did you have a white screen before or is this your first setup? thanks


----------



## TheDeliverator

normang said:


> Thanks for the feedback, I understand if you have a regular throw projector, that its hard to cross the gap into UST..
> 
> I guess in your situation the only other question I'd have, crossing probably into speculation on your part, and that is, did you decide on matte white because of your specific setup, over say a gray screen, which I thought in most cases might enhance blacks and contrast over the white? Did you have a white screen before or is this your first setup? thanks


This is my 4th projector screen. All have been white.

I was tempted to go grey or silver. The deciding factor IMO, was my projector (Vivitek HK2288), simply has too poor a contrast ratio to make up for the loss of light using of ALR screens... IN MY CURRENT SETUP.


----------



## normang

TheDeliverator said:


> This is my 4th projector screen. All have been white.
> 
> I was tempted to go grey or silver. The deciding factor IMO, was my projector (Vivitek HK2288), simply has too poor a contrast ratio to make up for the loss of light using of ALR screens... IN MY CURRENT SETUP.


That makes sense to me.... though as you emphasize your current setup, there are those future projectors that are brighter with higher contrast ratios, UST or not.. Though even if you upgrade perhaps that projector down the road, the screen you installed may work great too..


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

Has anyone tested the AGP material yet? I have a 128" 2.35:1 WVS that is great, but I may be making a move where my Epson 4000 will be in a mostly light-controlled living room (still a flat black screen wall, but lighter grey walls instead of dark grey) instead of a dedicated room.


----------



## ht guy

This is top of list for 100% light controlled basement HT with Epson 5040ub with new bulb.

Assume white vs grey?

Thanks.


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

With a 5040, I'd be looking strongly at 2.35:1 unless you're use case is more than 50% sports and/or console gaming. Most films and a notable percentage of TV (especially streaming) are presented in 2.35:1 or something else wider than 16:9.


----------



## ht guy

Thanks. 101 question, that's because the 5040 has the ability to zoom to 235:1?


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

Yup! Just be careful to make sure you have enough zoom/shift left to accommodate.


----------



## squared80

I'm still trying to figure out why I would buy the WVS instead of the WAB. The WVS was initially touted as a tighter weave for 8k pictures, so I have been planning to buy that all along, but I dunno. These measurements from @PixelPusher15 make me question why I wouldn't get the WAB version instead.


----------



## PixelPusher15

squared80 said:


> I'm still trying to figure out why I would buy the WVS instead of the WAB. The WVS was initially touted as a tighter weave for 8k pictures, so I have been planning to buy that all along, but I dunno. These measurements from @PixelPusher15 make me question why I wouldn't get the WAB version instead.
> 
> View attachment 3250244


The WVS has less texture if you are close enough to see it on the WAB. If not, then I agree. I don't know why one would pick the WVS over the WAB.


----------



## bglinkerman

squared80 said:


> I'm still trying to figure out why I would buy the WVS instead of the WAB. The WVS was initially touted as a tighter weave for 8k pictures, so I have been planning to buy that all along, but I dunno. These measurements from @PixelPusher15 make me question why I wouldn't get the WAB version instead.
> 
> View attachment 3250244


I'm in the same boat looking at these two screens. The other thing I noticed is that the WAB also has less db loss than WVS.










I was originally going to go with the WVS but since I'm about 11' from the screen I think I'm going with WAB since at that distance @PixelPusher15 states that WAB is "very smooth."


----------



## PixelPusher15

bglinkerman said:


> I'm in the same boat looking at these two screens. The other thing I noticed is that the WAB also has less db loss than WVS.
> 
> View attachment 3268620
> 
> 
> I was originally going to go with the WVS but since I'm about 11' from the screen I think I'm going with WAB since at that distance @PixelPusher15 states that WAB is "very smooth."


Get samples!

Don't just trust my eyeballs. I've heard back a few comments that my eyes matched others and some said they could see texture when I couldn't. I do have corrected vision to better than 20/20 though 😊. But yeah, get samples and judge to see if you can see texture yourself. Acoustically, the WAB is better but both are good.


----------



## squared80

bglinkerman said:


> I'm in the same boat looking at these two screens. The other thing I noticed is that the WAB also has less db loss than WVS.
> 
> View attachment 3268620
> 
> 
> I was originally going to go with the WVS but since I'm about 11' from the screen I think I'm going with WAB since at that distance @PixelPusher15 states that WAB is "very smooth."


I ordered samples, and I immediately decided on the WVS. Will I be able to tell a difference at 10'? Maybe not, who knows. But the WAB was like a yellow-tinted window screen and the WVS was like a white sheet. I have an NZ7, which went into my decision, even if that means I need to boost my LCR a bit.


----------



## bglinkerman

squared80 said:


> I ordered samples, and I immediately decided on the WVS. Will I be able to tell a difference at 10'? Maybe not, who knows. But the WAB was like a yellow-tinted window screen and the WVS was like a white sheet. I have an NZ7, which went into my decision, even if that means I need to boost my LCR a bit.


Thanks for your sharing your experience.....I just ordered myself a set of samples.


----------



## Rodzilla

Has anyone done a comparison of the Seymour XD against a Silver Ticket WVS? I'm looking at a viewing distance of just under 11' and am worried about the weave... I've heard the silver ticket is much tighter and also has a higher gain. Was hoping someone in here might have experience with each.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Rodzilla said:


> Has anyone done a comparison of the Seymour XD against a Silver Ticket WVS? I'm looking at a viewing distance of just under 11' and am worried about the weave... I've heard the silver ticket is much tighter and also has a higher gain. Was hoping someone in here might have experience with each.


Yes. Scroll down to the bottom. I have texture details for every screen I tested from 8, 10, and 13.5'. Just a note that texture can sometimes be more visible on full screens and I didn't test all 31 at full scale.

I personally wouldn't pick the XD unless I had 13-14'. But, some have it at around 11' and are perfectly happy with it. The WVS won't cause any issues at 11'.


----------



## bglinkerman

Figured I would share my experience. So we received our sample pack from SilverTicket but the results are not what I expected. As @squared80 said, the WAB does have a yellowish tinge to it, however, I was unable to perceive any difference between the yellowish WAB and the white WVS. What I was surprised with is that both my wife and I thought the WAB looked sharper than the WVS. We each would mix up the samples and then hold them up without the other knowing which was which--we both picked WAB every time. I don't really get it because the WVS is supposed to have better definition.

For what it is worth, I'm using an Epson 6050UB and am sitting about 12' from the ~135" screen .

On a slightly different note, does anyone have much of an opinion on the AGP microperf material? That one actually appeared to be the sharpest and the colors were more vivid, although, the overall brightness was reduced because it is a dark gray. If I recall, microperf is less AT than the woven screens. I was also concerned about viewing angles/hot spots because we noticed if we didn't have the sample perfectly flush with the wall, it would become very dark.


----------



## Greg.Ca

Silver ticket screens and LED back lighting?
Is there a way to easily install a kit for LED RGB lighting onto the frame of a Silver Ticket screen? Does this company allow for a LEd light strip onto their frame?


----------



## Laserfan

Greg.Ca said:


> Silver ticket screens and LED back lighting?
> Is there a way to easily install a kit for LED RGB lighting onto the frame of a Silver Ticket screen? Does this company allow for a LEd light strip onto their frame?


To my knowledge there is no ST frame that is made for such, but there is no reason you couldn't stand it off from the wall and mount LEDs behind it.

It would take some faith on your part because it might be really tricky (and require some good guesswork) to create the effect you want.


----------



## Maligxx

So I was originally using my specially painted wall but got annoyed with textures that were noticeable. So I ordered a ST gray screen and it too has unwelcome textures.

I thought their screen material would be smooth and textureless. Is this normal or did I get a dud? Do they have any textureless screen material?

I hung white printer paper on the screen and that showed no texture.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Maligxx said:


> So I was originally using my specially painted wall but got annoyed with textures that were noticeable. So I ordered a ST gray screen and it too has unwelcome textures.
> 
> I thought their screen material would be smooth and textureless. Is this normal or did I get a dud? Do they have any textureless screen material?
> 
> I hung white printer paper on the screen and that showed no texture.


Which grey screen did you get?


----------



## Maligx

Dominic Chan said:


> Which grey screen did you get?


Couldnt remember my real account lol.. anyway I ordered

"USED ACCEPTABLE STR-169135-G Silver Ticket, CLEARANCE 135" Diagonal, 16:9 Cinema Format, 4K / 8K Ultra HD & HDR Ready, HDTV (6 Piece Fixed Frame) Projector Screen, Grey Material"

I sent them an email about it, not sure what will happen but definitely disappointed.


----------



## travisinfla

I bought an open box 120" Silver Ticket Screen Silver Material (1.5 gain but apparently not) about 7 years ago and it sure made a difference in brightness and color compared to the relatively cheap white roll down screen 100" I originally had. The ST screen is well built and is like spandex, the dog has attacked the screen several times and ive been moved several times and it has held up well no damage. I'm still using it on an Epson 4000, and am pending an order for a significant upgrade to the LS12000. Do screens lose their effectiveness? I wonder if they fade and lose their gain? It's living room projector with ambient light used for sports and movies on fire stick 4k max and Apple TV. Under those non ideal light circumstances I wonder what the best screen would be for someone who wants brightest color under these conditions that doesn't break the bank. I suppose can see how it works this one since happy with it still.


----------



## saltyjacare

PixelPusher15 said:


> Yes. Scroll down to the bottom. I have texture details for every screen I tested from 8, 10, and 13.5'. Just a note that texture can sometimes be more visible on full screens and I didn't test all 31 at full scale.
> 
> I personally wouldn't pick the XD unless I had 13-14'. But, some have it at around 11' and are perfectly happy with it. The WVS won't cause any issues at 11'.


Thanks for all your work. I'm trying to find the best AT screen for a very short throw HT. Any recommendations for a view distance of about 7-8 ft or should I just avoid AT altogether? Thanks again


----------



## PixelPusher15

saltyjacare said:


> Thanks for all your work. I'm trying to find the best AT screen for a very short throw HT. Any recommendations for a view distance of about 7-8 ft or should I just avoid AT altogether? Thanks again


The only coated materials I'd try are the XY Screens Soundmax 4K/Elite AcousticPro UHD, and the SoundMax 8K.

A lot of the uncoated materials would work well. The SilverTicket WVS should do well. Seymour's UF material would work. If you want to go higher end then the DreamScreen UltraWeave v7 would be a really good pick. It'll be the best smooth and bright combo. 

Order samples of anything you are considering and see what you like best. We all have different eyes and setups.


----------



## saltyjacare

PixelPusher15 said:


> The only coated materials I'd try are the XY Screens Soundmax 4K/Elite AcousticPro UHD, and the SoundMax 8K.
> 
> A lot of the uncoated materials would work well. The SilverTicket WVS should do well. Seymour's UF material would work. If you want to go higher end then the DreamScreen UltraWeave v7 would be a really good pick. It'll be the best smooth and bright combo.
> 
> Order samples of anything you are considering and see what you like best. We all have different eyes and setups.


Perfect.. thank you! I'll order some of the above and give them a test.


----------



## PixelPusher15

saltyjacare said:


> Perfect.. thank you! I'll order some of the above and give them a test.


Take a look at my report and there are probably some others that will probably be worth trying. In addition to the ones I mentioned, you are looking for an uncoated material that is labeled smooth at 8' in the spreadsheet of truth on my website.


----------



## lacrossewacker

Looking at a 128” white (1.1 gain). How thick are the black borders, and how deep is the frame?


----------



## muzz

I've had 106" for years,. These speakers had no problems being heard. BEHIND the screen..DSG PURE10, with a simple Denon 4300H.
This screen doesn't restrict much.


----------



## Stridulent

I'm considering a 125" 2.35:1 ST screen to go along side an Epson LS12000 mounted at about 15.5 ft. However, ST doesn't have any more of the 125" white screens in stock on Amazon. Only silver. My room is completely light controlled. I do love some great black levels but not at the expense of colors or contrast. Is the silver option a bad choice?


----------



## Dominic Chan

Stridulent said:


> I'm considering a 125" 2.35:1 ST screen to go along side an Epson LS12000 mounted at about 15.5 ft. However, ST doesn't have any more of the 125" white screens in stock on Amazon. Only silver. My room is completely light controlled. I do love some great black levels but not at the expense of colors or contrast. Is the silver option a bad choice?


Can you not order it directly from Silver Ticket?








USED ACCEPTABLE STR-235125 Silver Ticket CLEARANCE 127.75" Diagonal, 2.35:1 Cinematic Anamorphic, 4K / 8K Ultra HD & HDR Ready, HDTV (6 Piece Fixed Frame) Projector Screen, White Material


USA Continental 48 states ONLY. If the item is taken out of the USA and needs parts. Parts will only ship to a continental 48 state address. This is a clearance product that does not qualify for returns. *** If parts are missing or a part is not acceptable, please contact us and we will...




www.silverticketproducts.com


----------



## Stridulent

Dominic Chan said:


> Can you not order it directly from Silver Ticket?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> USED ACCEPTABLE STR-235125 Silver Ticket CLEARANCE 127.75" Diagonal, 2.35:1 Cinematic Anamorphic, 4K / 8K Ultra HD & HDR Ready, HDTV (6 Piece Fixed Frame) Projector Screen, White Material
> 
> 
> USA Continental 48 states ONLY. If the item is taken out of the USA and needs parts. Parts will only ship to a continental 48 state address. This is a clearance product that does not qualify for returns. *** If parts are missing or a part is not acceptable, please contact us and we will...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.silverticketproducts.com


Thanks for the find. It looks like that would fit the bill. Just kind of worried about buying used.


----------



## lacrossewacker

For those that compared the White (1.1 gain) vs the Ultra White (4W, 1.4 gain), did you notice the increase in black floor on the higher gain material?

I find the POP of the 1.4 very appealing, but I’m also a contrast snob, and I’m afraid of how it looks when I’m watching a dark episode of game of thrones or ozark.

It’s hard to tell what the overall effect will be when it’s stretched across a 128” screen, vs a sample.

Notes: fully dedicated (matte painted room), Epson ls12000.


----------



## Shinji Mikami

Hi !!! A month ago I bought a 142" inches 16:9 1.4 Gain SilverTicket screen and until now I didn't realize about some "white stain stripes" on top of the screen. I show you a picture and I hope you can see what I'm trying to explain.


























I have no idea if that's normal or a material screen issue. Any suggestions?


----------



## Dominic Chan

lacrossewacker said:


> For those that compared the White (1.1 gain) vs the Ultra White (4W, 1.4 gain), did you notice the increase in black floor on the higher gain material?
> 
> I find the POP of the 1.4 very appealing, but I’m also a contrast snob, and I’m afraid of how it looks when I’m watching a dark episode of game of thrones or ozark.
> 
> It’s hard to tell what the overall effect will be when it’s stretched across a 128” screen, vs a sample.
> 
> Notes: fully dedicated (matte painted room), Epson ls12000.


The 1.4 gain screen will raise the back floor proportionately. However, if it bothers you, you can just reduce the laser power to bring you back to the same white level (and black level).


----------



## Dominic Chan

Shinji Mikami said:


> Hi !!! A month ago I bought a 142" inches 16:9 1.4 Gain SilverTicket screen and until now I didn't realize about some "white stain stripes" on top of the screen. I show you a picture and I hope you can see what I'm trying to explain.
> 
> View attachment 3332824
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3332826
> 
> 
> 
> I have no idea if that's normal or a material screen issue. Any suggestions?


Are they visible from all angles? From the pictures they look more like ripples (normal) rather than stains (not normal). The ripples will usually flatten out after a while, or you can go over the area with a hairdryer (with warm air, not too hot)


----------



## Laserfan

Dominic Chan said:


> Are they visible from all angles? From the pictures they look more like ripples (normal) rather than stains (not normal). The ripples will usually flatten out after a while, or you can go over the area with a hairdryer (with warm air, not too hot)


This, plus in the end do you detect any anomalies during normal viewing?

Many of the glitches we seen in daylight simply are not noticeable when viewing program material.


----------



## RafaelSmith

lacrossewacker said:


> For those that compared the White (1.1 gain) vs the Ultra White (4W, 1.4 gain), did you notice the increase in black floor on the higher gain material?
> 
> I find the POP of the 1.4 very appealing, but I’m also a contrast snob, and I’m afraid of how it looks when I’m watching a dark episode of game of thrones or ozark.
> 
> It’s hard to tell what the overall effect will be when it’s stretched across a 128” screen, vs a sample.
> 
> Notes: fully dedicated (matte painted room), Epson ls12000.


I am curious about this as well. I currently have a 1.1 ST 135 screen and a JVC RS1100 with throw at 15.5ft. My room is totally light controled and black but I feel I could use more brightness for HDR. Wondering if its worth considering getting the 1.4? I do not want to ruin the great blacks I have now thou.


----------



## Dominic Chan

RafaelSmith said:


> I am curious about this as well. I currently have a 1.1 ST 135 screen and a JVC RS1100 with throw at 15.5ft. My room is totally light controled and black but I feel I could use more brightness for HDR. Wondering if its worth considering getting the 1.4? I do not want to ruin the great blacks I have now thou.


You can get a rough idea what the 1.4 gain screen will look like in terms of brightness and black level, by zooming to a smaller image area on your current screen; e.g., from 100" wide to 88" wide.
I've very happy with their 1.3 gain screen (only available in raw material). The 1.4 gain raw material has visible sparkles, although I'm not sure if their finished screen uses the same material.


----------



## Luis Gabriel Gerena

RafaelSmith said:


> I am curious about this as well. I currently have a 1.1 ST 135 screen and a JVC RS1100 with throw at 15.5ft. My room is totally light controled and black but I feel I could use more brightness for HDR. Wondering if its worth considering getting the 1.4? I do not want to ruin the great blacks I have now thou.


I suggest you grab a sample to be sure. I tested the 1.4 and the shimmering/sparkles was not acceptable for my needs. The other screens I tested were far better in that aspect
Regarding blacks...if you are boosting the light with a higher gain screen that goes for both whites and your black level.


----------



## RafaelSmith

Luis Gabriel Gerena said:


> I suggest you grab a sample to be sure. I tested the 1.4 and the shimmering/sparkles was not acceptable for my needs. The other screens I tested were far better in that aspect
> Regarding blacks...if you are boosting the light with a higher gain screen that goes for both whites and your black level.


I went ahead and ordered sample pack from ST.


----------



## Luis Gabriel Gerena

RafaelSmith said:


> I went ahead and ordered sample pack from ST.


Good. One thing I forgot to mention is that one advantage of a higher gain screen is that you can close the iris more on your JVC which actually ends up increasing contrast normally but since you are looking for more brightness, that is not likely something you want to do anyway


----------



## RafaelSmith

Luis Gabriel Gerena said:


> Good. One thing I forgot to mention is that one advantage of a higher gain screen is that you can close the iris more on your JVC which actually ends up increasing contrast normally but since you are looking for more brightness, that is not likely something you want to do anyway


I received that sample pack from Silver Ticket today...so hopefully will get a chance tonight to checkout the 1.4.

I will add, that I reached out to Silver Ticket via email to ask if I could just buy the 1.4 material and use my existing frame. They replied yes....and they also told me to wait until I have had a chance to checkou the sample. I know its small thing...but I appreciate them wanting to make sure I know what im getting before ordering.


----------



## Luis Gabriel Gerena

RafaelSmith said:


> I received that sample pack from Silver Ticket today...so hopefully will get a chance tonight to checkout the 1.4.
> 
> I will add, that I reached out to Silver Ticket via email to ask if I could just buy the 1.4 material and use my existing frame. They replied yes....and they also told me to wait until I have had a chance to checkou the sample. I know its small thing...but I appreciate them wanting to make sure I know what im getting before ordering.


Looking forward to your results


----------



## RafaelSmith

Luis Gabriel Gerena said:


> Looking forward to your results


Ok here we go. I received the sample pack from Silver Ticket which contained many different samples....I highly recommend anyone shopping for screens to get the ST sample pack...its gives you several samples for ~$5. Side note...I pity folks that have to go with grey or silver screen.

I spent about an hour testing different movies and test patterns...adjust various projector settings...and without a doubt I will be getting the ST 1.4 material for my screen. Everything was just enough brighter to be noticeable from my roughly 10ft viewing distance without any shimmering and without any effect on blacks. Had wife come and ask her thoughts...didnt tell her where the sample was...i used tape that made it non obvious and she immediately pointed it out and said...wow that does make a difference.

Unfortunately ST seems to be out of stock..but soon as I can I will be ordering the material...for the price its a no brainer.


----------



## martinstraka8282

RafaelSmith said:


> Ok here we go. I received the sample pack from Silver Ticket which contained many different samples....I highly recommend anyone shopping for screens to get the ST sample pack...its gives you several samples for ~$5. Side note...I pity folks that have to go with grey or silver screen.
> 
> I spent about an hour testing different movies and test patterns...adjust various projector settings...and without a doubt I will be getting the ST 1.4 material for my screen. Everything was just enough brighter to be noticeable from my roughly 10ft viewing distance without any shimmering and without any effect on blacks. Had wife come and ask her thoughts...didnt tell her where the sample was...i used tape that made it non obvious and she immediately pointed it out and said...wow that does make a difference.
> 
> Unfortunately ST seems to be out of stock..but soon as I can I will be ordering the material...for the price its a no brainer.


I've been eyeing up the 1.4 material too. Any results for off axis say 30 degrees?

I was all sold, but reading about losing gain off angle, I'm concerned it's pointless if not worse from my most used seating position.


----------



## RafaelSmith

martinstraka8282 said:


> I've been eyeing up the 1.4 material too. Any results for off axis say 30 degrees?
> 
> I was all sold, but reading about losing gain off angle, I'm concerned it's pointless if not worse from my most used seating position.


I did not do precise angles...but I did look at samples from all 3 of my first row seats and could not see any difference between the 3 seats.


----------



## martinstraka8282

RafaelSmith said:


> I did not do precise angles...but I did look at samples from all 3 of my first row seats and could not see any difference between the 3 seats.


Thanks, that is a hard thing to get a pulse on without just buying it and trying it.


----------



## Dominic Chan

martinstraka8282 said:


> Thanks, that is a hard thing to get a pulse on without just buying it and trying it.


I test screen samples at the centre as well as at the corner of the intended screen postion, side-by-side with a sheet of plain paper. Can be quite revealing about the viewing angle.


----------



## noah katz

Dominic Chan said:


> You can get a rough idea what the 1.4 gain screen will look like in terms of brightness and black level, by zooming to a smaller image area on your current screen; e.g., from 100" wide to 88" wide.


A potential wrinkle here is that w/most pj's the brightness change is not inversely proportional to image area, because light output increases with shorter throw distance.


----------



## martinstraka8282

Dominic Chan said:


> I test screen samples at the centre as well as at the corner of the intended screen postion, side-by-side with a sheet of plain paper. Can be quite revealing about the viewing angle.


Interesting. Makes sense. I had a 2.8hp years ago, I didn't love it because of the viewing angles and Iirc you could see it dip in the corners too. I'm about 30 degrees off center and 4-5 feet below it 99% of the time, so that's a wrench in an upgrade to a higher gain screen.


----------



## RafaelSmith

I probably went overboard but when I tested the sample...I basically did a grid based on size of the sample and tried it in every "block"...across main 3 seats with various content/patterns.


----------



## Dominic Chan

RafaelSmith said:


> I probably went overboard but when I tested the sample...I basically did a grid based on size of the sample and tried it in every "block"...across main 3 seats with various content/patterns.


Is the 1.4 still brighter when you place it at the corner of the screen?


----------



## RafaelSmith

Dominic Chan said:


> Is the 1.4 still brighter when you place it at the corner of the screen?


It was to me....to be honest I could not tell much difference from my seat in brightness between sample in center or corners.


----------



## RafaelSmith

Received the 1.4 replacement material from Silver Ticket on Saturday and installed it into my existing frame. Pretty straightforward and simple.

So far I have not noticed any "negatives" with the 1.4 gain material...and it has upped the brightness of HDR content just as I had hoped it would


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## lacrossewacker

RafaelSmith said:


> Received the 1.4 replacement material from Silver Ticket on Saturday and installed it into my existing frame. Pretty straightforward and simple.
> 
> So far I have not noticed any "negatives" with the 1.4 gain material...and it has upped the brightness of HDR content just as I had hoped it would


And to confirm, you came from their standard white material?


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## RafaelSmith

lacrossewacker said:


> And to confirm, you came from their standard white material?


Yes. I had the 1.1 material.


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## lacrossewacker

RafaelSmith said:


> Yes. I had the 1.1 material.


Did you need to do any updated calibration on your projector (what is it, btw?)

I'm holding off on doing any major calibrations on my existing LS12000/screen combo until I get a new screen installed.

I imagine I'll pull the trigger on the 128" STR 4W (1.4) this week.

Anybody have any pros/cons to share with SilverTicket's standard frame vs thin bezel frame? I guess the thinner the bezel, the most accurate I need to be with the screen centering/setup, but that's it?


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## Dominic Chan

lacrossewacker said:


> Did you need to do any updated calibration on your projector (what is it, btw?)
> 
> I'm holding off on doing any major calibrations on my existing LS12000/screen combo until I get a new screen installed.
> 
> I imagine I'll pull the trigger on the 128" STR 4W (1.4) this week.
> 
> Anybody have any pros/cons to share with SilverTicket's standard frame vs thin bezel frame? I guess the thinner the bezel, the *most accurate I need to be with the screen centering/setup*, but that's it?


Keep in mind the lens memory of the LS1200 is not 100% repeatable.


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## RafaelSmith

lacrossewacker said:


> Did you need to do any updated calibration on your projector (what is it, btw?)
> 
> I'm holding off on doing any major calibrations on my existing LS12000/screen combo until I get a new screen installed.
> 
> I imagine I'll pull the trigger on the 128" STR 4W (1.4) this week.
> 
> Anybody have any pros/cons to share with SilverTicket's standard frame vs thin bezel frame? I guess the thinner the bezel, the most accurate I need to be with the screen centering/setup, but that's it?


My projector is a JVC RS1100 and its still using factory "cal" since I have not had any good results with AutoCal and the SpyderX. I plan to seek out pro cal sometime after the holidays.

Only thing I did was redo basic Brightness and Contrast adjustments as well as bump my HDR level down by 1 (from 1 to 0).


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## Dominic Chan

RafaelSmith said:


> My projector is a JVC RS1100 and its still using factory "cal" since I have not had any good results with AutoCal and the SpyderX. I plan to seek out pro cal sometime after the holidays.
> 
> Only thing I did was redo basic Brightness and Contrast adjustments as well as bump my HDR level down by 1 (from 1 to 0).


If you have an i1DisplayPro (or equivalent Calibrite model) you can also use that for Autocal, with "Alternative DLLs".


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## lacrossewacker

Just ordered 128" STR 4W (1.4 gain) screen/frame combo. It'll probably be a few weeks until it arrives, but this should be nice!


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## lacrossewacker

lacrossewacker said:


> Just ordered 128" STR 4W (1.4 gain) screen/frame combo. It'll probably be a few weeks until it arrives, but this should be nice!


Well, I know I said "a few weeks", but it actually arrived today! (Standard shipping, just ordered last Wednesday evening and it came today, the following Monday. Woot woot!)

Maybe I can get it built/installed while the wife/kids are home this Wednesday, local school counties are closed on Wednesday for a holiday (Wife is a teacher).


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## pbc

RafaelSmith said:


> Yes. I had the 1.1 material.


Can you confirm...the 1.1 material seems to have a minor amount of texture to it, i.e., it is not perfectly smooth. Here it is next to the ST130G4 fabric and Qualgear 1.2 (lower one below) fabric for instance. Can see there is texture with the Silver Ticket, none with the Stewart or Qualgear (I'm surprised just how smooth the qualgear one is). The camera close up exaggerates the texture in the Silver Ticket.











Is the 1.4 material similar in texture, more smooth, more texture?

Would be interesting to see some measurements of the gain profiles of these screens vs the Stewart reference.


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## RafaelSmith

pbc said:


> Can you confirm...the 1.1 material seems to have a minor amount of texture to it, i.e., it is not perfectly smooth. Here it is next to the ST130G4 fabric and Qualgear 1.2 (lower one below) fabric for instance. Can see there is texture with the Silver Ticket, none with the Stewart or Qualgear (I'm surprised just how smooth the qualgear one is). The camera close up exaggerates the texture in the Silver Ticket.
> 
> View attachment 3342951
> 
> 
> 
> Is the 1.4 material similar in texture, more smooth, more texture?
> 
> Would be interesting to see some measurements of the gain profiles of these screens vs the Stewart reference.


Hmm, I can take another look...I still have the 1.1 material rolled up.. But I never noticed any texture like that. The 1.4 is smooth....and actually heavier than the 1.1 material. It was much more of a bi#$% to install onto the frame than the 1.1 was.

My 1.1 material was over 6 years old...maybe they changed something. They also included a sample of the current 1.1 in the sample pack I got, so ill take a look at that as well.


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## Dominic Chan

pbc said:


> Can you confirm...the 1.1 material seems to have a minor amount of texture to it, i.e., it is not perfectly smooth. Here it is next to the ST130G4 fabric and Qualgear 1.2 (lower one below) fabric for instance. Can see there is texture with the Silver Ticket, none with the Stewart or Qualgear (I'm surprised just how smooth the qualgear one is). The camera close up exaggerates the texture in the Silver Ticket.
> 
> View attachment 3342951
> 
> 
> 
> Is the 1.4 material similar in texture, more smooth, more texture?
> 
> Would be interesting to see some measurements of the gain profiles of these screens vs the Stewart reference.


The light coming at an angle (as in your picture) also accentuates the texture. In actual use the light from the projector will be coming "straight" (unless you have a very short throw) and the texture will be much less noticeable.

I have posted some relative gain comparisons in this thread before.


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## pbc

RafaelSmith said:


> Hmm, I can take another look...I still have the 1.1 material rolled up.. But I never noticed any texture like that. The 1.4 is smooth....and actually heavier than the 1.1 material. It was much more of a bi#$% to install onto the frame than the 1.1 was.
> 
> My 1.1 material was over 6 years old...maybe they changed something. They also included a sample of the current 1.1 in the sample pack I got, so ill take a look at that as well.


Yeah, lmk, I was surprised at how much texture I see (even though as mentioned, the photo accentuates it) and feel vs what I have heard about the white being texture less. It's what prevented me from considering the ST.




Dominic Chan said:


> The light coming at an angle (as in your picture) also accentuates the texture. In actual use the light from the projector will be coming "straight" (unless you have a very short throw) and the texture will be much less noticeable.
> 
> I have posted some relative gain comparisons in this thread before.


Yeah definitely the camera isn't helping, I took it at an angle as it's easier to see in the picture as well. 

Will see if I can find those! Really curious about the 1.4 in particular. The Stewart sample is impressive, can definitely see why it's referred to as a reference piece. The white is, well, a much different white from all the other samples I've looked at and appears so "clean" on the screen, but man does it cost an arm and a leg up here in Canada.


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## pbc

Dominic Chan said:


> The light coming at an angle (as in your picture) also accentuates the texture. In actual use the light from the projector will be coming "straight" (unless you have a very short throw) and the texture will be much less noticeable.
> 
> I have posted some relative gain comparisons in this thread before.


Found it. Your 1.1 looks identical to mine in terms of texture, the 1.3 looks very nice and smooth though!









Silver Ticket Screen?


yes it is. Check out General from the link you sent - General Important Notice The benefit as described below is available for purchases made with your card on or before September 21, 2019. This benefit is no longer available for purchases made on or after September 22, 2019.Hmmm.....that's...




www.avsforum.com


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## Dominic Chan

pbc said:


> Yeah, lmk, I was surprised at how much texture I see (even though as mentioned, the photo accentuates it) and feel vs what I have heard about the white being texture less. It's what prevented me from considering the ST.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah definitely the camera isn't helping, I took it at an angle as it's easier to see in the picture as well.
> 
> Will see if I can find those! Really curious about the 1.4 in particular. The Stewart sample is impressive, can definitely see why it's referred to as a reference piece. The white is, well, a much different white from all the other samples I've looked at and appears so "clean" on the screen, but man does it cost an arm and a leg up here in Canada.


I ordered their 1.4 gain raw material. It was very bright but has noticeable sparkles. I ended up using the 1.3 gain raw material, no visible sparkles from normal viewing distance


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## Dominic Chan

pbc said:


> Found it. Your 1.1 looks identical to mine in terms of texture, the 1.3 looks very nice and smooth though!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Silver Ticket Screen?
> 
> 
> yes it is. Check out General from the link you sent - General Important Notice The benefit as described below is available for purchases made with your card on or before September 21, 2019. This benefit is no longer available for purchases made on or after September 22, 2019.Hmmm.....that's...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


That why I've been recommending the 1.3 raw material. Very smooth, no visible sparkles, good gain and viewing angle.


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## pbc

Dominic Chan said:


> That why I've been recommending the 1.3 raw material. Very smooth, no visible sparkles, good gain and viewing angle.


Thanks, was just reading from pages 90 onwards and noticed your posts about the 1.4. Sparkles drives me crazy, especially with hockey (...and being Canadian, well...).

So you went back to the 1.3? I have an Elite Aeon screen right now, but painted it (poorly) grey, unfortunately it sparkles quite a bit and the gain is horrible. The Aeon material attaches via grommets and painful little springs.

Any idea if I bought the 1.3 raw material (which unfortunately has tripled in price if not more in the last few years), whether I could hole punch and insert the pastic grommets into the existing Elite Aeon frame? Can see it at about 2:30 in from this video...


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## Dominic Chan

pbc said:


> Thanks, was just reading from pages 90 onwards and noticed your posts about the 1.4. Sparkles drives me crazy, especially with hockey (...and being Canadian, well...).
> 
> So you went back to the 1.3? I have an Elite Aeon screen right now, but painted it (poorly) grey, unfortunately it sparkles quite a bit and the gain is horrible. The Aeon material attaches via grommets and painful little springs.
> 
> Any idea if I bought the 1.3 raw material (which unfortunately has tripled in price if not more in the last few years), whether I could hole punch and insert the pastic grommets into the existing Elite Aeon frame? Can see it at about 2:30 in from this video...


My Silver Ticket frame uses tensioning rods on the 4 sides. I folded each side to form a "pocket" and punched holes (without the reenforcing grommets) to accept the plastic "knobs" on the frame channels, but in that case the tensioning rod spreads out the tension more evenly. Without the tensioning rods there will be more local stresses on the material, but the grommets should help. I would still double up the edges.


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## pbc

RafaelSmith said:


> Received the 1.4 replacement material from Silver Ticket on Saturday and installed it into my existing frame. Pretty straightforward and simple.
> 
> So far I have not noticed any "negatives" with the 1.4 gain material...and it has upped the brightness of HDR content just as I had hoped it would


Youre not seeing the sparkles that @Dominic Chan noticed?


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## RafaelSmith

pbc said:


> Youre not seeing the sparkles that @Dominic Chan noticed?


Nope.


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## pbc

RafaelSmith said:


> Nope.


Wonder if similar to their ALR material if the DIY raw stuff is different from the material they sell with the screen.


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## RafaelSmith

Tried to take a pic of my 1.4 screen with cell phone..about 1/2 inch away...any closer I kept getting shadow from phone. And room is so blacked out its hard to take good pics.


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## pbc

RafaelSmith said:


> Nope.


You’re throw is 15.5 so similar to mine with same PJ. What is your seating distance and how high up is the PJ mounted.

Odd that @Dominic Chan saw sparkle to the point of going back to a 1.3 frame while you’re not seeing any. Getting some samples shipped.

Even getting $4 samples shipped to Canada is expensive!!


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## RafaelSmith

pbc said:


> You’re throw is 15.5 so similar to mine with same PJ. What is your seating distance and how high up is the PJ mounted.
> 
> Odd that @Dominic Chan saw sparkle to the point of going back to a 1.3 frame while you’re not seeing any. Getting some samples shipped.
> 
> Even getting $4 samples shipped to Canada is expensive!!


First row is 10ft. Projector is mounted using a Chief RPMA mount attached to a 3in extension column attached to ceiling plate.


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## pbc

RafaelSmith said:


> First row is 10ft. Projector is mounted using a Chief RPMA mount attached to a 3in extension column attached to ceiling plate.


If you get a chance, can you throw a hockey game up on the screen and check the white ice as the camera pans for sparkle?


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## Dominic Chan

pbc said:


> You’re throw is 15.5 so similar to mine with same PJ. What is your seating distance and how high up is the PJ mounted.
> 
> Odd that @Dominic Chan saw sparkle to the point of going back to a 1.3 frame while you’re not seeing any. Getting some samples shipped.
> 
> Even getting $4 samples shipped to Canada is expensive!!


I have some leftover 1.3 and 1.4 gain samples that you can pickup if you like. They're wrinkled so you will need to stretch it, although it shouldn't affect the checking of sparkles.
EDIT: I still have the 1.4 screen material, but cut a 2:1 aspect ratio (same width as 120" 16:9, but reduced height).


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## pbc

Dominic Chan said:


> I have some leftover 1.3 and 1.4 gain samples that you can pickup if you like. They're wrinkled so you will need to stretch it, although it shouldn't affect the checking of sparkles.
> EDIT: I still have the 1.4 screen material, but cut a 2:1 aspect ratio (same width as 120" 16:9, but reduced height).


Might take you up on that, you’re in the GTA?

Curious, by chance did you compare/measure the 1.3 and 1.4 against the Stewart 130G4?


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## Dominic Chan

pbc said:


> Might take you up on that, you’re in the GTA?
> 
> Curious, by chance did you compare/measure the 1.3 and 1.4 against the Stewart 130G4?


I did not compare against Stewart. Way out of my reach.
Contact me by PM if you want the samples.


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## RafaelSmith

pbc said:


> If you get a chance, can you throw a hockey game up on the screen and check the white ice as the camera pans for sparkle?


I just so happen to have a few Lightning game recordings. I could not see any sparkling. I got my face up to screen and maybe saw something but not really sure. From any normal viewing distance I saw none.


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## Luis Gabriel Gerena

pbc said:


> Youre not seeing the sparkles that @Dominic Chan noticed?


When I tested the 1.4 (it was my preferred choice due to price) the sparkles were the first thing that I noticed unlike the perfectly nice st130 g4 and Seymour Glacier White. That immediately made it a no go unfortunately.


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## pbc

Luis Gabriel Gerena said:


> When I tested the 1.4 (it was my preferred choice due to price) the sparkles were the first thing that I noticed unlike the perfectly nice st130 g4 and Seymour Glacier White. That immediately made it a no go unfortunately.


Did you test a sample or the full screen?


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## Luis Gabriel Gerena

pbc said:


> Did you test a sample or the full screen?


I only had two samples of the 1.4 so that is as large as I was able to test it. I also moved those around different locations and moved myself around to see the drop in brightness at various angles.
But for example, placing them where Jenny Lind stands on that far shot in Greatest Showman, her white dress was horribly sparkly unlike Seymour and Stewart


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## lacrossewacker

Wife and I worked on setting up the new 128” STR frame worth 1.4 gain white material.
Holy crap that was hard…and I mean HARD to stretch into place. Whew!

We haven’t installed it on the wall yet, waiting on an extra buddy of mine to be available before taking down my current screen and putting up the new one.


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## ng4ever

lacrossewacker said:


> Wife and I worked on setting up the new 128” STR frame worth 1.4 gain white material.
> Holy crap that was hard…and I mean HARD to stretch into place. Whew!
> 
> We haven’t installed it on the wall yet, waiting on an extra buddy of mine to be available before taking down my current screen and putting up the new one.


Indeed.


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## Prabhurc

I just went over all the posts from last 10 pages. Was originally looking for 135inch 1.4 gain, but based on the experiences @Luis Gabriel Gerena and @Dominic Chan had, I am holding the trigger for now. Glad that @RafaelSmith didn't have any issues though, also waiting to hear from @lacrossewacker ...

I just ordered the samples from ST, will udpate once I have them.

Also how does s7 compares against s6, is it really worth the price difference 250$? I believe the bezel frame width is the only difference.

My Setup:
Painted all black, seating distance 1st row 10ft & 2nd 15.5ft
Image size 135 inch Epson 5050UB - 16 ft throw distance


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## pbc

Dominic Chan said:


> I used the Lepage Heavy Duty Contact Cement to form the "pockets" for the rods.


Still waiting on my samples. Mind if I ask, what were the steps and how did you apply the cement to the 1.3 material? Was it, cut screen to size, apply cement to form pockets using a small Paint brush, etc? 

What did you place underneath the screen, that sort of thing.


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## Dominic Chan

To make sure I get a clean pocket, I first put a band of masking tape on the material where the pocket will be, and then apply the cement on both sides of the fold. When the cement dries I peel off the tape and fold the material to form the pocket.
I used LePage Heavy Duty Contact Cement. I have also used double-sided tape instead of cement; maybe not quite as strong but had no issues with the taped screen (it's been over a year).


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## pbc

So finally got my 1.4 and 1.3 samples from ST, and over the weekend watched hockey along with some HDR material for a few hours with each of the materials overlapping each other a bit, basically the ST1.3, 1.4, ST130G4 and Severtson 1.3.

Curiously, I was not seeing much of any sparkle on the 1.4, certainly nothing more than what I was seeing with the Severtsen or ST130G4, the 1.3, maybe had a bit less but felt like splitting hairs. I moved them around a few spots as well. The 1.4 looks just as punchy, if not a bit brighter, than the ST130G4 which was equal basically to the Severtson 1.3 in terms of gain. I haven't yet measured the 1.4 against those two yet. The colors as well looked almost identical between the ST1.4 and ST130G4, by eye anyhow.

Will try the scene @Luis Gabriel Gerena mentions above in terms of the dress if I can get my hands on that movie somehow as I don't think it is on Netflix or Prime.

Not sure what other material to try on these screen samples?


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## Dominic Chan

pbc said:


> So finally got my 1.4 and 1.3 samples from ST, and over the weekend watched hockey along with some HDR material for a few hours with each of the materials overlapping each other a bit, basically the ST1.3, 1.4, ST130G4 and Severtson 1.3.
> 
> Curiously, I was not seeing much of any sparkle on the 1.4, certainly nothing more than what I was seeing with the Severtsen or ST130G4, the 1.3, maybe had a bit less but felt like splitting hairs. I moved them around a few spots as well. The 1.4 looks just as punchy, if not a bit brighter, than the ST130G4 which was equal basically to the Severtson 1.3 in terms of gain. I haven't yet measured the 1.4 against those two yet. The colors as well looked almost identical between the ST1.4 and ST130G4, by eye anyhow.
> 
> Will try the scene @Luis Gabriel Gerena mentions above in terms of the dress if I can get my hands on that movie somehow as I don't think it is on Netflix or Prime.
> 
> Not sure what other material to try on these screen samples?


Maybe I used the wrong side. I looked at the 1.4 sample just now and I can see sparkles (actually more like shinny soeckles) under a bright light, but seems to be only on one side.


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## Nuieve

Does Silver Ticket generally do any discounts on Black Friday? 

I need to buy a large screen and they do have a 5% off right now for Veteran's day but I wonder if I should wait for BF.


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## SBabcock

Am considering the S7-169135-WVS (1.1 Gain) screen for a light controlled room with a 16:9 UST projector with center speaker behind screen. This was recommended by Silver Screen.

Just wondering if I should lower the gain and go with the AGP (0.95) or 2GP (1.0). Mainly to watch movies - am looking for good blacks.

Steve


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## PixelPusher15

Does anyone have the 1.4 gain 4W screen installed other than @RafaelSmith? I'm wondering about any hot-spotting. If you do, can you take a photo of a full white image?

Rafael...how far is your throw on the JVC? And now that you've had the screen longer what's your take?


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## pbc

PixelPusher15 said:


> Does anyone have the 1.4 gain 4W screen installed other than @RafaelSmith? I'm wondering about any hot-spotting. If you do, can you take a photo of a full white image?
> 
> Rafael...how far is your throw on the JVC? And now that you've had the screen longer what's your take?


Aren't you using an AT screen? Thinking of changing up the room?


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## PixelPusher15

pbc said:


> Aren't you using an AT screen? Thinking of changing up the room?


Yup. Currently playing with dual centers so I can get a brighter image and or better contrast


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## sukumar

If anyone using Silver Ticket with Sony xw5000, could you please share you experience if they match for better picture quality? Also, What model is recommended for 150 inch 16:9 screen with Sony VPL-XW5000ES projector?

Though it is inexpensive, looks like good quality as people are using high-end projectors.


----------

