# Formovie Fengmi T1



## jakechoy

Just heard Wemax is releasing three laser UST projector based on ALPD 4.0 technology.

The model will be T1 for USD2700.

Anyone heard anything?

Adding FAQ Section below - please message me new additions and I can add to it:

*Power Supply:*
1. T1 has global power supply. It will work in both 110/220V environments.
2. You just need to change the cord or get an pin adaptor for your country's power plug.

*HDR / eARC / HDMI Support:*
1. Dolby Vision validated - some reddness issue on some content but livable *(FIXED in latest firmware update)*
2. HDR10+ *NOT SUPPORTED*
3. eARC validated
4. 2.1 HDMI option available
5. Gaming mode available 

*Menu:*
1. Menus and submenus can be switched to English.

*Built-In Apps:*
1. All China apps.
2. Use external media player such as NVIDIA, Fire, Roku etc for your content

*Bootup:*
1. Autoboot to selected HDMI
2. CEC support for powering up / shutting down devices

*Known Issues:*
1. HDMI 2.0/2.1 Handshake - requires switching between both modes to fix 


*Suggested Settings:

1. Vrroom and Roku Ultra*








Formovie Fengmi T1


Acho que estou pronto para puxar o gatilho em um T1! Obrigado a todos por compartilharem comentários honestos e levarem o projetor ao limite para ver do que ele é capaz. Também obrigado a Brian por compartilhar informações sobre a versão internacional, def consideraria lançar negócios em seu...




www.avsforum.com





Ok, so where I'm at with my recent testing is at 4,000 nits for the DV tab on the Vrroom. I just get the most detail it seems with this setting, though the 400 nits settings are also very good and comparable if you can't push up to 4,000 nits. I mean, look at the freckles on the Elven Queen's face. There's just a ridiculous amount of detail there! And a lot of these other pictures are showing improved details as well.

These are the settings I am using currently (with the Vrroom and Roku Ultra):
Brightness Mode: View Mode
Custom:
Brightness: 49
Contrast: 48
Saturation: 48
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 52

Color Custom:
Red: 903
Green: 952
Blue: 872


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## humax

Any credible source on that? Right now , there is only the Chroma available. I am sure there will be more Chinese ALPD 4.0 models down the line, but for now there is no further info.


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## jakechoy

humax said:


> Any credible source on that? Right now , there is only the Chroma available. I am sure there will be more Chinese ALPD 4.0 models down the line, but for now there is no further info.


the same shop selling Vava Chroma (I will go see it after Christmas to compare with the Laser 2). Preorders now and delivery in Jan. I asked if it has DV but they have no clue. Price is competitive. But I am really loving my Dolby Vision logo popping up everytime I watch DV content


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## humax

If it is a Chinese shop, there might be some truth in it, since it seems a lot of Chinese models pop up suddenly and out of nowhere. I am also sure there will be an ALPD 4.0 model with DV support somewhere down the line. How soon though, who knows?


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## tovaxxx




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## humax

In the comments, it mentions confirmed DV support. We will see, but Fengmi releasing an RGB model so soon after the Xiaomi is big news. We need more info about this.


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## humax

This seems to be ALPD 4.0 (the Chinese shop says they have confirmed it is also DV, but in the promo video I did not see anything mentioned), initial price is 3600$ and it will be available in January 2022. The rate these Chinese models come out is unbelievable.


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## lattiboy

humax said:


> This seems to be ALPD 4.0 (the Chinese shop says they have confirmed it is also DV, but in the promo video I did not see anything mentioned), initial price is 3600$ and it will be available in January 2022. The rate these Chinese models come out is unbelievable.


I was initially annoyed this got officially announced literally the day after I purchased the Xaomi Cinema 2, but $3600 is more than I’d be willing to spend personally. Be interested to see if this does combine the color and contrast of the current best of class into one.


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## lattiboy

Also, kind of wild how these audiophile brands are partnering with Chinese companies on USTs, first JMGO with Dynaudio and now Fengmi with B&W. Those licenses probably cost a LOT, and it’s interesting these companies are willing to pay for it.

Im guessing they’re making more of a play for European markets in the future.


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## 3sprit

lattiboy said:


> Also, kind of wild how these audiophile brands are partnering with Chinese companies on USTs, first JMGO with Dynaudio and now Fengmi with B&W. Those licenses probably cost a LOT, and it’s interesting these companies are willing to pay for it.
> 
> Im guessing they’re making more of a play for European markets in the future.


Those brands produce in China


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## Brajesh

Looks like this has HDR10+ as well.


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## humax

lattiboy said:


> I was initially annoyed this got officially announced literally the day after I purchased the Xaomi Cinema 2, but $3600 is more than I’d be willing to spend personally. Be interested to see if this does combine the color and contrast of the current best of class into one.


DV support still has to be confirmed by official specs, otherwise this projector is a no go. If this is actually a DV unit and the price drops down by at least 400$, this may be the one I have been looking for. Lack of DV is the only thing stopping me from buying the Chroma. Now, I am thinking of using the money for the Chroma to buy a 150" XY ALR screen from China, save up again and buy this one in a few months once prices and availability settle down. It is a longshot with my financial means, but still worth a try. I am not eager to buy a new projector every couple of years and a new model coming out three months apart is rather ridiculous.





lattiboy said:


> Also, kind of wild how these audiophile brands are partnering with Chinese companies on USTs, first JMGO with Dynaudio and now Fengmi with B&W. Those licenses probably cost a LOT, and it’s interesting these companies are willing to pay for it.
> 
> Im guessing they’re making more of a play for European markets in the future.



All these official stickers and trademarks are about credibility and to be taken seriously. People were laughing at Chinese products five years ago. Well, they are not laughing anymore. I can picture some frown faces in other projector companies' marketing departments, when listening to things like RGB laser and Dolby Vision support.


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## humax

Brajesh said:


> Looks like this has HDR10+ as well.


If this and DV are true, then I will be saving up for good in order to get one. However, specs need to be officially confirmed, before a final conclusion is drawn. I just wish all these Chinese units had their marketing specs in full English from the start, instead of trying to find out about them through Google translators. It is off-putting.


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## rjyap

Here's the chinese site review. Comparing with Hisense tri-laser UST. Please note that the reviewer is using painted grey wall for projection so the screen is not absolute flat. I almost go for Xiaomi C2 but keep holding for tri-laser model with Dolby Vision. Looks like this is it!






峰米T1对比海信88L9F，激光电视横评，谁才是客厅王者？_画面_投影_投射


另外噪音这个问题，两款机器都表现很好，我一直开着测试，只有纯静音的时候轻微声音，而且这机器正常开着就是播放电影或者音乐，因为这激光电视跟投影不一样 不是放在沙发这边的头顶，放在客厅最远处基本有3-5米距…




www.sohu.com


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## humax

rjyap said:


> Here's the chinese site review. Comparing with Hisense tri-laser UST. Please note that the reviewer is using painted grey wall for projection so the screen is not absolute flat. I almost go for Xiaomi C2 but keep holding for tri-laser model with Dolby Vision. Looks like this is it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 峰米T1对比海信88L9F，激光电视横评，谁才是客厅王者？_画面_投影_投射
> 
> 
> 另外噪音这个问题，两款机器都表现很好，我一直开着测试，只有纯静音的时候轻微声音，而且这机器正常开着就是播放电影或者音乐，因为这激光电视跟投影不一样 不是放在沙发这边的头顶，放在客厅最远处基本有3-5米距…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.sohu.com


Nice find, my friend! You would make a good detective.


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## wheelee

more details








峰米全色激光电视T1评测：旗舰新定义客厅换代首选


在激光电视领域，峰米科技一直扮演着行业领跑者的角色。作为小米生态链企业，峰米也致力于大屏激光显示的推广，利用影院激光厅同源的ALPD激光显示技术，时至今日已经带来多个行业爆款，不断用创新推动中国激光电视产



projector.zol.com.cn













看得精彩，听得入迷 峰米推出旗下首款全色激光电视T1


作为客厅影院的新宠儿——激光电视受到了越来越多家庭的喜爱，其不用提前布线也能享受百寸大屏视觉体验的优势得到了消费者的认可。在享受大屏幕带来的视觉冲击基础上，消费者对于画质和音质方面也提出了更高的需求…




zhuanlan.zhihu.com


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## Adamgoodapp

rjyap said:


> Here's the chinese site review. Comparing with Hisense tri-laser UST. Please note that the reviewer is using painted grey wall for projection so the screen is not absolute flat. I almost go for Xiaomi C2 but keep holding for tri-laser model with Dolby Vision. Looks like this is it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 峰米T1对比海信88L9F，激光电视横评，谁才是客厅王者？_画面_投影_投射
> 
> 
> 另外噪音这个问题，两款机器都表现很好，我一直开着测试，只有纯静音的时候轻微声音，而且这机器正常开着就是播放电影或者音乐，因为这激光电视跟投影不一样 不是放在沙发这边的头顶，放在客厅最远处基本有3-5米距…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.sohu.com


Dolby Vision, HDR10+, eArc must have a min subset of HDMI 2.1, most likely like the Xiaomi cinema 2, 2.1must be selected in the menu.


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## Flexer

Is there any comparison between the Fengmi T1 vs the Wemax A300? Considering either one of them. I have seen the Wemax A300 and the contrast and color looks good but not sure how the Fengmi T1 performs vs the Wemax A300


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## Adamgoodapp

Flexer said:


> Is there any comparison between the Fengmi T1 vs the Wemax A300? Considering either one of them. I have seen the Wemax A300 and the contrast and color looks good but not sure how the Fengmi T1 performs vs the Wemax A300


For me the Dolby Vision support will make it better then the Wemax A300. Have a look at Xiaomi Laser TV 2, also has DV.
Gregory at passionhomecinema also says Xiaomi cinema 2 better than Wemax A300.


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## humax

Fengmi Formovie T1 Cinema Laser Projector 2800 Ansi Lumens Hdr10 Home Theater Beamer Video 4k - Buy Home Theater Beamer Video 1080p,Memc Projector,Ust Product on Alibaba.com 


Already a price drop on Alibaba. Dolby Vision, HDR10+, Atmos, speckle reduction technology confirmed. Gregory says he will surely test it after the Chroma.


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## rjyap

USD 3k seems like a better buy than Xiaomi C2. Watching closely on this unit.


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## Brajesh

So, this doesn't appear to be a ALPD 4.0 tri-laser right? Color gamut coverage appears to be in the high 80's.


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## humax

Brajesh said:


> So, this doesn't appear to be a ALPD 4.0 tri-laser right? Color gamut coverage appears to be in the high 80's.


This part is a bit confusing. It says it is ALPD RGB+ meaning it is tri-laser, not ALPD 4.0 like the Chroma. As for actual color coverage, I guess we will have to wait for Gregory to review it. I really hope they haven't messed up with color coverage and it does reach 100% BT2020, otherwise what is the point of using tri-laser? This projector seems to tick all the other boxes. Only a 0.66" DMD is missing, but so far no ALPD projector has used it. It would be a same to mess up with color, since the potential is already there. I want something like this so badly along with a 150" ALR screen as my new projector, but if I am going to bleed in order to buy both, they 'd better do, what they advertise with no funny business.


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## Brajesh

Keeping an eye on this one, as well as the Xiaomi C2. Will make a final decision after pairing my Vava Chroma + HDFury + 120" ALR screen. Latter two due within 2 weeks. Hopefully HDFury won't be overly complicated; seems it may not be based on Dave Harper's post in the Vava Chroma thread.


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## abaintor

According to the following test 峰米T1对比海信88L9F，激光电视横评，谁才是客厅王者？_画面_投影_投射 it has more than 100% BT2020 coverage so this should be good on that point.
Several questions : anti-speckle treatment seems to soften the picture, I hope that it will preserve all the details, the contrast is announced at 3000:1 (vs 3200 measured on the mono-laser Xiaomi C2), and the price is high (around 3000$) which becomes risky to order without guarantee from China


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## humax

abaintor said:


> According to the following test 峰米T1对比海信88L9F，激光电视横评，谁才是客厅王者？_画面_投影_投射 it has more than 100% BT2020 coverage so this should be good on that point.
> Several questions : anti-speckle treatment seems to soften the picture, I hope that it will preserve all the details, the contrast is announced at 3000:1 (vs 3200 measured on the mono-laser Xiaomi C2), and the price is high (around 3000$) which becomes risky to order without guarantee from China



Thank you for pointing out about BT2020 coverage. I must have missed it on Google translate. Still, we need Gregory to verify this offers legit tri-laser performance. Xiaomi dual laser fell short of its color expectations in his test. He says he will first review the Chroma and shortly after this one, so by the end of January-early February, we should have his impressions on both. If he gives it a thumbs up, I will probably go with this one, although I also have to buy the biggest ALR screen I can get for it. As for Chinese units' warranty and support, you are right, it is a risky move, but personally I would rather take a chance with one of these in order to get features that other mainstream DLPs from major companies can only dream of right now. Hell, even the new and very expensive JVC laser models do not offer RGB laser and DV support.


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## Brajesh

Also looking forward to Gregory's review of Chroma. One negative I do see with mine (and I expect this will vary a bit between units) is slight (but noticeable, at least in test patterns) convergence issues between the 3 lasers. Unlike some displays that allow you to manually address, align convergence, Chroma doesn't (and probably other tri-laser UST's won't either). No issues are noticeable in actual viewing however.

But, the plusses outweigh any minusses, namely how rich and vibrant the colors are, the depth. Also, not seeing any speckles on mine.


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## lattiboy

Yeah, it’s weird to me how the priciest consumer models like JVC are only doing 80% of P3 on their PJs at three or four times this price. That never seems to get mentioned and leads me to believe color coverage is perhaps overblown metric, especially as Hollywood and TV know full well only a fraction of their viewers will have 100% P3, much less BT2020.


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## jakechoy

humax said:


> This part is a bit confusing. It says it is ALPD RGB+ meaning it is tri-laser, not ALPD 4.0 like the Chroma. As for actual color coverage, I guess we will have to wait for Gregory to review it. I really hope they haven't messed up with color coverage and it does reach 100% BT2020, otherwise what is the point of using tri-laser? This projector seems to tick all the other boxes. Only a 0.66" DMD is missing, but so far no ALPD projector has used it. It would be a same to mess up with color, since the potential is already there. I want something like this so badly along with a 150" ALR screen as my new projector, but if I am going to bleed in order to buy both, they 'd better do, what they advertise with no funny business.



yeah,looks like it is the same ALPD as Xiamomi C2?


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## abaintor

No it is a trilaser. The xiaomi c2 is mono laser (or at least has the same color coverage as other mono-lasers as Gregory pointed out).
Also the link I posted above showed that the other trilaser from hisense is weaker on color coverage while handling more than 100% bt2020. To be confirmed of course with real measures


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## humax

Updated RRP prices for the Chinese market are €2353 in EUR or $2668 in USA or A$3697 in AU (quotes from NothingbutLabel store). Obviously, you have to factor in shipping, VAT and import charges, where applicable.

Also, here is a chart with the current mainstream ALPD models and their characteristics. Two mistakes I spotted is the D30 being a 12500 lumens model and the T1 is also HDR10+ compatible.


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## humax

Fengmi is also introducing a retractable, telescopic high quality wooden stand for its UST products. The price is a bit steep, but it may be useful for some projector owners.

Fengmi Formovie Laser TV Telescopic Stand T1 Smart TV Cabinet Extension PTZ Ultra short Focus Projector Stand Retractable Table|Smart Remote Control| - AliExpress


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## humax

Fengmi Panchromatic Laser TV T1 Review: A comprehensive experience of sound and painting that makes sound and color extraordinary - YouTube 

First video review is out. Unfortunately in Chinese only with no auto-translate.


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## arsenalfc89

Curious to see reviews vs the Chroma. I’ve had the Chroma for a few days now and it made me realize the OG Vava was child’s play lol. The color and black level on the Chroma is outstanding. My wife actually thinks it’s comparable to our OLED, mostly due to the contrast/color.


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## humax

arsenalfc89 said:


> Curious to see reviews vs the Chroma. I’ve had the Chroma for a few days now and it made me realize the OG Vava was child’s play lol. The color and black level on the Chroma is outstanding. My wife actually thinks it’s comparable to our OLED, mostly due to the contrast/color.



It goes without saying that an OLED will have a better contrast. However, in terms of color an OLED can only do 96 – 98% of DCI-P3 and 75% of Rec. 2020. An RGB laser projector is the ultimate solution for HDR color that's why all the fuss about these tri-laser models. As for the VAVA, it is fine being an RGB ALPD model and will receive frequent firmware updates. This one is a bit brighter and adds Dolby Vision and HDR10+ native support. You cannot go wrong with both choices.


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## Casey_Bryson

T1 looks great spec wise. I wish Xiaomi/Fengmi/Appotronics would reverse policy and add 3D back. Thank god VAVA still knows what's up!


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## humax

Casey_Bryson said:


> T1 looks great spec wise. I wish Xiaomi/Fengmi/Appotronics would reverse policy and add 3D back. Thank god VAVA still knows what's up!


The current version of the Xiaomi/Fengmi OS is not 3D-compatible. This could change, but I would not hold my breath. It seems they think 3D is a dead format.


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## arsenalfc89

humax said:


> It goes without saying that an OLED will have a better contrast. However, in terms of color an OLED can only do 96 – 98% of DCI-P3 and 75% of Rec. 2020. An RGB laser projector is the ultimate solution for HDR color that's why all the fuss about these tri-laser models. As for the VAVA, it is fine being an RGB ALPD model and will receive frequent firmware updates. This one is a bit brighter and adds Dolby Vision and HDR10+ native support. You cannot go wrong with both choices.


Yes the OLED is still the best contrast wise but the colors on the Chroma really stands out along with the deep blacks.


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## Kev1000000

Any input lag figures yet?


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## humax

Kev1000000 said:


> Any input lag figures yet?


Too early for that. You 'll have to wait for Gregory's test in order to get a credible number. He measured Xiaomi C2 at 35.5 ms in game mode, so this should be in the same ballpark or slightly higher.

Bowers & Wilkins Provides Audio System for Formovie T1 UST Laser Projector - ecoustics.com

The above link says the Fengmi For Movie USTs were also the first to be THX certified. Interesting. They are paying handsomely in order to receive every official certification there is, which will bring them respect, credibility and increased sales volumes in the long run. A couple of years ago US sites did not even bother with these Chinese models.


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## Brajesh

humax said:


> It seems they think 3D is a dead format.


Not dead, but on life support . I have nearly 500 3D titles, and I continually enjoy them. Can't beat the immersive experience with 3D, especially with ATMOS & DTS:X audio with many.

There's still an active 3D community here, and despite being a 'dead' format, we did get the IMAX exclusive 'Black Widow' on 3D disc this year, and just recently 'Shang-Chi and the Legend of the Ten Rings'. And 'Dune, Part 1' 3D is due shortly.

_Update... now releasing in March in Japan: 'Eternals' 3D!_


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## humax

Brajesh said:


> Not dead, but on life support . I have nearly 500 3D titles, and I continually enjoy them. Can't beat the immersive experience with 3D, especially with ATMOS & DTS:X audio with many.
> 
> There's still an active 3D community here, and despite being a 'dead' format, we did get the IMAX exclusive 'Black Widow' on 3D disc this year, and just recently 'Shang-Chi and the Legend of the Ten Rings'. And 'Dune, Part 1' 3D is due shortly.



The fact remains. They have removed it and China is probably the biggest 3D market there is. I believe their last 3D projector was the Xiaomi Mijia 1S and this is already an outdated model. As for 3D itself, my Philips Screeneo 2510 does have it, as well as 2D to 3D conversion, but I doubt I have watched more than 10 titles. I did love the idea of 3D movies, but glasses are annoying and after five years they are just gathering dust. IMHO, a large and clean 4K image is 3D-enough. 1080p 3D is tricky to get right, loses a lot of light and still does not have an increased resolution and contrast. The fact it was not included in the 4K realm and specs by all involved companies speaks volumes.


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## abaintor

I disagree although this is a matter of taste. 
I prefer a 1080p 3D version over the bluray 4k experience. 
I was not so sure until I tested both versions of the same movies and without mentioning Avatar which is the best 3D movie so far. 
The 4k resolution and hdr benefits are not as impressive as the feeling to be inside the movie set with a more intense experience. 
Animation movies are much better in 3D (disneys such as tangled, frozen, polar express…)
And some movies render (so much) better in 3D (avengers, the hobbit 3, alita, jupiter, ninja turtles)
Of course many movies have junk 3D (especially post-converted ones). 
The xiaomi 1s does a fantastic job in 3D thanks to its powerful brigthness (I also use a PC with svp software solution to have 60fps interpolation). 
I am pissed off with the support being dropped. It started with TVs, then the Blu-ray 4K skipping 3D format and it will surely reach projectors. It sounds logical that Blu-ray 3D will stop to be manufactured. It is not a consumer choice but industrials. 3D is still happening in theaters so people are willing to wear glasses for a couple of hours.


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## humax

Like I said, I do like the idea of 3D, but lose the glasses. My eyes were twice as tired, after watching a 3D movie than watching it in 2D. There were some efforts made for glassless 3D, but they could not get it to work and now it is too late. As for Avatar, yes it is the best 3D movie, but it was shot in 2K SDR anyway. I was equally impressed when I saw small clips of it converted to HDR on my 75" 4K tv. These should look even better on the Fengmi T1 by the way.

Avatar 2009 - The Ultimate HDR Experience | HDR-X 6000 PQ Rec. 2020 - INTERNAL TEKNO3D Demo - YouTube

Avatar ( 2009 ) Wake Up Scene — Transferred in Wide Color Gamut | PQ HDR by TEKNO3D - YouTube

Avatar ( 2009 ) "A Son of the Omaticaya" — Rec. 2020 | PQ HDR & A.I. Detail Enhanced by TEKNO3D - YouTube


As for sole 4K, it offers a appreciable increase in detail. I can no longer watch 1080p without sharpening though my Darbee. It looks soft, colorless and blurry to me. The biggest difference, however, is HDR. Especially for movies shot on film, this is the first time we are seeing an image close to the original camera negative.


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## lattiboy

I am very interested in this PJ, but I am not super interested in arguments about 3-D we’ve been having for a decade. Could we get back on topic?


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## humax

Now, also available on Alibaba for 2800$. Full specs in English:

Fengmi Formovie Laser Tv Projector T1 2800 Ansi Lumens Memc Projector Fengmi 4k Laser Projector Fengmi T1 - Buy Fengmi Projector,Fengmi T2,Fengmi 4k Laser Projector Product on Alibaba.com


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## pionoor

humax said:


> Now, also available on Alibaba for 2800$. Full specs in English:
> 
> Fengmi Formovie Laser Tv Projector T1 2800 Ansi Lumens Memc Projector Fengmi 4k Laser Projector Fengmi T1 - Buy Fengmi Projector,Fengmi T2,Fengmi 4k Laser Projector Product on Alibaba.com


They actually sell it for $2120. Just placed an order.


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## USTmalt

pionoor said:


> They actually sell it for $2120. Just placed an order.
> View attachment 3217511


Looking forward to your impressions


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## humax

pionoor said:


> They actually sell it for $2120. Just placed an order.
> View attachment 3217511



What country are you in? France? I just double-checked the link and it still says 2800$ for one unit to Greece plus 21$ for shipping. Weird. Perhaps, it already includes VAT and import taxes for entering the European Union in my case? I know Banggood that Gregory suggests has them pre-included, hence the more expensive price. Please, let us know if you have paid anything extra or not, when it arrives.


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## pionoor

humax said:


> What country are you in? France? I just double-checked the link and it still says 2800$ for one unit to Greece plus 21$ for shipping. Weird. Perhaps, it already includes VAT and import taxes for entering the European Union in my case? I know Banggood that Gregory suggests has them pre-included, hence the more expensive price. Please, let us know if you have paid anything extra or not, when it arrives.


I live in the USA. Don't place the order right away. If you chat with them first and ask for how much for 1 piece, they will quote you $2120. I paid extra $150 for shipping.


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## humax

pionoor said:


> I live in the USA. Don't place the order right away. If you chat with them first and ask for how much for 1 piece, they will quote you $2120. I paid extra $150 for shipping.



Thank you for your input. Unfortunately, I still have to factor in obligatory VAT and import taxes in my country. No way I am getting it at that price you got it. You are a lucky man, my friend. This price is a steal for such a well-specked model!


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## pionoor

humax said:


> Thank you for your input. Unfortunately, I still have to factor in obligatory VAT and import taxes in my country. No way I am getting it at that price you got it. You are a lucky man, my friend. This price is a steal for such a well-specked model!


So when they ship it, they usually declare the value of the shipment is less than the actual value. That’s actually what they gonna do for me, the value would be less than $700 which would be tax free. They do that all the time, just ask them.


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## humax

pionoor said:


> So when they ship it, they usually declare the value of the shipment is less than the actual value. That’s actually what they gonna do for me, the value would be less than $700 which would be tax free. They do that all the time, just ask them.



Yes, I know they use this trick, however, it no longer works in my country. Either the Chinese store pre-charges you for VAT and taxes or the item gets inspected by customs, where you will probably get charged even more. Not getting around it I am afraid. This is the main reason I rarely buy things from America or China anymore. The price comes about a bit less than my country now. Anyway, I will wait for Gregory to provide a discount code for Banggood in order to at least save some money.


----------



## MJ DOOM

How far below a 120" screen would this projector have to be?


----------



## lattiboy

pionoor said:


> I live in the USA. Don't place the order right away. If you chat with them first and ask for how much for 1 piece, they will quote you $2120. I paid extra $150 for shipping.


That is insane!


pionoor said:


> So when they ship it, they usually declare the value of the shipment is less than the actual value. That’s actually what they gonna do for me, the value would be less than $700 which would be tax free. They do that all the time, just ask them.


I sent a message asking for the same, I’ll see what happens. Thanks for the tip!


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

Not highly technical, but I came across this review / impressions…



https://min.news/en/home/80fda58ddff399c020fa5f10776ecf5e.html


----------



## lattiboy

pionoor said:


> They actually sell it for $2120. Just placed an order.
> View attachment 3217511


They must have liked you as I was quoted $2320 + $130 shipping. Still a good deal, but I messaged back asking for your price. We will see


----------



## pionoor

lattiboy said:


> They must have liked you as I was quoted $2320 + $130 shipping. Still a good deal, but I messaged back asking for your price. We will see


Haha, yeah I was lucky I guess. Hope you get same price.


----------



## zoomx2

最具性价比的影院级百吋大屏，峰米全色激光电视T1评测-钛媒体官方网站


【钛媒体视频】最具性价比的影院级百吋大屏，峰米全色激光电视T1评测




demo.tmtpost.com





It is a review I read on a Chinese website. I don't care much about what he said. I am quite impressed with the picture's colour and detail in the video.


----------



## humax

zoomx2 said:


> 最具性价比的影院级百吋大屏，峰米全色激光电视T1评测-钛媒体官方网站
> 
> 
> 【钛媒体视频】最具性价比的影院级百吋大屏，峰米全色激光电视T1评测
> 
> 
> 
> 
> demo.tmtpost.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a review I read on a Chinese website. I don't care much about what he said. I am quite impressed with the picture's colour and detail in the video.


Oh God, why don't they even bother to add auto-translate in these Chinese videos? Anyway, you are right, this looks good, even though he is projecting on a wall. Restrained, natural, well-handled and accurate colors, clarity and high brightness. However, we still need actual numbers from Gregory in order to to reach an objective conclusion.


----------



## zoomx2

In video 5:20, the movie projected on the wall with him standing in front of it convinced me to go ahead order one. It tells me it is a real-time picture.


----------



## chrisdu46

Soon available on the Banggood website : Fengmi Formovie T1 at a price of € 2,658.25


----------



## humax

chrisdu46 said:


> Soon available on the Banggood website : Fengmi Formovie T1 at a price of € 2,658.25



As expected! Obviously, VAT and import taxes included in comparison to that scandalously low Chinese price. European governments seem to think that we are richer than the Americans, so we don't mind paying quite a bit more for the same products. Now, all we have to do is wait for Gregory's review and discount code.


----------



## Adamgoodapp

lattiboy said:


> They must have liked you as I was quoted $2320 + $130 shipping. Still a good deal, but I messaged back asking for your price. We will see


I also contacted them for price of one unit. Got $2130 + $20 for shipping to Japan. Spoke to Chris Chen.

For this price, it looks like a real winner. I can wait a little bit longer hopefully for Gregory to give the final pass.


----------



## lattiboy

Adamgoodapp said:


> I also contacted them for price of one unit. Got $2130 + $20 for shipping to Japan. Spoke to Chris Chen.
> 
> For this price, it looks like a real winner. I can wait a little bit longer hopefully for Gregory to give the final pass.


Yep, I countered with the $2120 and got it with $140 shipping to the US. At that price the Xaomi Cinema 2 doesn’t make a ton of sense.


----------



## manwithnoname

I'm gonna pull the trigger on this, seems like a winner all-around! I was debating between this, the Hisense PX1-Pro, and the Xaomi C2, but this seems like the best for my completely light controlled room, and I already have a UST compatible 120" screen.

For those of you who are getting the discounted shipping to the US, can you let me know what process you go through to request that price? Is it done through "Contact Supplier"? I've never purchased from Alibaba before. Thank you so much!


----------



## Adamgoodapp

lattiboy said:


> Yep, I countered with the $2120 and got it with $140 shipping to the US. At that price the Xaomi Cinema 2 doesn’t make a ton of sense.


I see you have the Xiaomi Cinema 2, will you be comparing it with the T1? I was just about to hit the buy button for the Xiaomi Cinema 2 but then saw the T1.




manwithnoname said:


> I'm gonna pull the trigger on this, seems like a winner all-around! I was debating between this, the Hisense PX1-Pro, and the Xaomi C2, but this seems like the best for my completely light controlled room, and I already have a UST compatible 120" screen.
> 
> For those of you who are getting the discounted shipping to the US, can you let me know what process you go through to request that price? Is it done through "Contact Supplier"? I've never purchased from Alibaba before. Thank you so much!



ALPD RGB+ (Tri laser)
BT.2020
Dolby Vison / Atmos
HDR10 +
Bower & Wilkins
MEMC
2800 ANSI Lumens

It has all the features you need.


----------



## humax

Adamgoodapp said:


> I also contacted them for price of one unit. Got $2130 + $20 for shipping to Japan. Spoke to Chris Chen.



May I say again in jealousy this price is outrageously low? Just to think that in Europe we have to pay the T1 at the bargain price of 3000$ gets me depressed. Hurray, us European suckers got the short end of the stick again and to think I also have to get an ALR screen for it. Bummer!


----------



## humax

lattiboy said:


> At that price the Xaomi Cinema 2 doesn’t make a ton of sense.



Actually, this pricing policy does not make any sense at all. Some really weird marketing right there by the Chinese. Why buy the Xiaomi at the same price as the T1? Since these two are sister companies, it is like shooting themselves in the foot. Not to mention the fact, this came out in less than 2 months after the Xiaomi. It is bonkers!


----------



## 3sprit

However, the customs checks and makes an approximate calculation of the value of the product.


----------



## 3sprit

zoomx2 said:


> 最具性价比的影院级百吋大屏，峰米全色激光电视T1评测-钛媒体官方网站
> 
> 
> 【钛媒体视频】最具性价比的影院级百吋大屏，峰米全色激光电视T1评测
> 
> 
> 
> 
> demo.tmtpost.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a review I read on a Chinese website. I don't care much about what he said. I am quite impressed with the picture's colour and detail in the video.


 They are just videos and I wait for the tests made by Grégory but I always see a not so detailed image. An image that appears to have an anti-aliasing filter that "softens" everything…


----------



## abaintor

3sprit said:


> They are just videos and I wait for the tests made by Grégory but I always see a not so detailed image. An image that appears to have an anti-aliasing filter that "softens" everything…


Exactly, besides the specs mention "LPSE filter" to remove speckle generated by trilaser technology on DLP. It seems to soften the picture, I am a bit worried about that


----------



## Tanizhq

Anyone know the Lifespan of it, doesn't seem to say anywhere, also the colour range? It only say BT.2020 but what percentage lol?


----------



## Brajesh

Just announced at CES, Hisense is adding Dolby Vision via firmware to its existing L9G and new PX1-Pro. Hoping HDR10+ next in more UST's.


----------



## humax

Tanizhq said:


> Anyone know the Lifespan of it, doesn't seem to say anywhere, also the colour range? It only say BT.2020 but what percentage lol?



They claim a lifespan of 20000 hours for the lasers. As for the color range, all tri-lasers are supposed to hit 100% of Rec.2020, but this has to show up in Gregory's measurements. We will see, if it lives up to that in practice.


----------



## humax

Brajesh said:


> Just announced at CES, Hisense is adding Dolby Vision via firmware to its existing L9G and new PX1-Pro. Hoping HDR10+ next in more UST's.



When someone makes the first move, the others will follow in order not to stay behind sales-wise. They are a far more reputable brand than Xiaomi/Fengmi in the States and their warranty is miles better. However, they don't offer HDR10+ at the moment and most importantly their light engine has a typical contrast ratio of 1500:1, which means less than half of the ALPD units.


----------



## Brajesh

Very true... Xiaomi/Wemax/Fengmi still hold the contrast and blacks secret sauce .


----------



## lattiboy

Yeah, it’s really insane how much better the blacks are on the ALPD units from China. I had the Bomaker and the Hisense L5F and the LG HU810P and none of them come anywhere close to my current Xaomi Cinema 2. Literally a different league of black.

Gotta wonder what secret they’re using to trounce everybody else using the same TI chip


----------



## Brajesh

That's exactly why I'm anxiously awaiting Gregory's reviews of both T1 and Chroma. May just switch from latter to T1, and get a cheap DLP front PJ for my 3D needs.

What's really surprising is that most of the U.S.-based so-called professional reviewers are unaware of this. I posted about it in a reply to SpareChange's YT review of Hisense PX1-Pro here and he removed my comment . Intentionally turning a blind eye?!


----------



## lattiboy

Brajesh said:


> That's exactly why I'm anxiously awaiting Gregory's reviews of both T1 and Chroma. May just switch from latter to T1, and get a cheap DLP front PJ for my 3D needs.
> 
> What's really surprising is that most of the U.S.-based so-called professional reviewers are unaware of this. I posted about it in a reply to SpareChange's YT review of Hisense PX1-Pro here and he removed my comment . Intentionally turning a blind eye?!


He posts here a lot tooI have been tempted to ask him, but he seems like a solid vendor who does informative stuff so I don’t wanna put him in an awkward position.

The fact is Xaomi/Fengmi have simply figured out something nobody else has and are rightfully holding onto it. Having looked at a few videos and pictures from the chroma, I have to say it does not look to have near the black levels of the Xaomi or Fengmi, which makes it all the weirder as it’s an ALPD 4.0 unit!

I have the T1 coming, and if it even comes close to the Bomaker for colors and keeps the contrast in black levels of the Xaomi then I will be officially done with my search for a new projector. Every day I use the Cinema 2 I am more impressed. It doesn’t have the “wow” of the Bomaker for colors, but everything else about it is pretty much perfect.


----------



## jakechoy

I will go see the demo of T1 on Friday. The brightness will be key for me to see if I want to swap the C2 out for the T1. I am very happy with the C2 currently - the T1 has to be alot better for me to swap out.


----------



## Adamgoodapp

Lucky you get to check it out before buying. I'm looking forward to your review!


----------



## Brajesh

pionoor said:


> They actually sell it for $2120. Just placed an order.
> View attachment 3217511


Have they shipped yours yet? Tempted to try it, but having never ordered from Alibaba, don't know if you have any buyer protection like with eBay.
----------
With this PJ, I assume it's possible, when powering on every time, to bypass the Chinese content home screen and have it switch directly to a particular HDMI input? Asking as this isn't possible with Wemax A300 and the original Xiaomi 4K, w/o rooting and using ProjecTivy Tools app.


----------



## pionoor

Brajesh said:


> Have they shipped yours yet? Tempted to try it, but having never ordered from Alibaba, don't know if you have any buyer protection like with eBay.
> ----------
> With this PJ, I assume it's possible, when powering on every time, to bypass the Chinese content home screen and have it switch directly to a particular HDMI input? Asking as this isn't possible with Wemax A300 and the original Xiaomi 4K, w/o rooting and using ProjecTivy Tools app.


I will get it on the 13th. I have bought many expensive stuff of Alibaba, never had any issues. If anything goes wrong, and Alibaba didn't help, you can always rely on your credit card issuer and dispute the transaction.


----------



## Adamgoodapp

Brajesh said:


> Have they shipped yours yet? Tempted to try it, but having never ordered from Alibaba, don't know if you have any buyer protection like with eBay.
> ----------
> With this PJ, I assume it's possible, when powering on every time, to bypass the Chinese content home screen and have it switch directly to a particular HDMI input? Asking as this isn't possible with Wemax A300 and the original Xiaomi 4K, w/o rooting and using ProjecTivy Tools app.


Is it possible to flash these with stock Android and bypass the Chinese version completely?


----------



## Brajesh

pionoor said:


> I will get it on the 13th. I have bought many expensive stuff of Alibaba, never had any issues. If anything goes wrong, and Alibaba didn't help, you can always rely on your credit card issuer and dispute the transaction.


Okay, think I'm nuts, but placing an order as well. Messaged Chris & she agreed to the same price. Will compare side-by-side w/my Chroma and keep one . _Decided to hold off my impulse buy instincts and wait for Gregory's review. Two reasons: lack of 3D, so it has to be very compelling to consider something outside Chroma, and this being a tri-laser and whether it'll have similar issues w/color fringing as Chroma, and be as sharp as single lasers to date._



Adamgoodapp said:


> Is it possible to flash these with stock Android and bypass the Chinese version completely?


You can with some, but in my case (and several others reported the same problem) w/Wemax A300, it produced annoying side effects of Google Play Services and Android TV widget "has stopped" errors every time upon power on.


----------



## zoomx2

I am using a 60” plasma from Panasonic for 10 years. If this colour and contrast as good as my plasma in day and night use I'm super happy already 😆


----------



## devikanths

Hi All,

I am really grateful to y'alls discussions and sharing information. I am coming from a optoma p1. Unfortunately after an year of use it developed a white dot when projecting and am thinking of selling it. I am considering 3 ust's the xiaomi c2, fengmi t1 and the vava chroma. The vava chroma has some presence in the USA so im feeling a little inclined as it may get some warranty support. At the same time the fengmi T1 with its specs is also tempting. I got the quote from alibaba and may place an order. But wanted to check with the experienced people here on how do they intend to deal with if any problems arise.
Thanks.


----------



## Brajesh

Looks like if you can't resolve issue with the seller, then as @pionoor noted, opening a dispute w/your credit card company is the only recourse.


----------



## spocky12

Brajesh said:


> Have they shipped yours yet? Tempted to try it, but having never ordered from Alibaba, don't know if you have any buyer protection like with eBay.
> ----------
> With this PJ, I assume it's possible, when powering on every time, to bypass the Chinese content home screen and have it switch directly to a particular HDMI input? Asking as this isn't possible with Wemax A300 and the original Xiaomi 4K, w/o rooting and using ProjecTivy Tools app.


This is fake news 
Root on these projectors is mostly for installing Google services.
My fault, I don't communicate enough on this feature. That's the kind of misunderstanding you get when you build a multipurpose app and a single forum thread for this app and rooting/recoveries tutorials.

ProjecTivy tools can boot any Android tv device to any of its HDMI input (no need for premium either). Just need to enable the accessibility service. As this device has FengOs I don't expect it to behave differently.
If It is anyways, it'll be quickly fixed as my T1 is on its way


----------



## Brajesh

Good to see you here @spocky12 . Had forgot you can use ProjecTivy tools to boot into any HDMI input, just that you can't have different picture mode profiles w/o Google services, which you can't have w/o root.


----------



## pionoor

devikanths said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I am really grateful to y'alls discussions and sharing information. I am coming from a optoma p1. Unfortunately after an year of use it developed a white dot when projecting and am thinking of selling it. I am considering 3 ust's the xiaomi c2, fengmi t1 and the vava chroma. The vava chroma has some presence in the USA so im feeling a little inclined as it may get some warranty support. At the same time the fengmi T1 with its specs is also tempting. I got the quote from alibaba and may place an order. But wanted to check with the experienced people here on how do they intend to deal with if any problems arise.
> Thanks.


My first UST was the original Xiaomi 4k laser projector, I got it through Alibaba. Never had issues with it that I had to contact the seller in China to use the warranty. If you live in the US, you also might wanna use a credit card with extended warranty. I use Costco Anywhere Visa Card by Citi which extends your warranty coverage for an additional 2 YEARS. Having said that, anything goes wrong with your projector, you probably gonna need to ship it back to China to get it fixed. And you probably gonna to be responsible for the shipping fees, roundtrip.


----------



## lattiboy

spocky12 said:


> This is fake news
> Root on these projectors is mostly for installing Google services.
> My fault, I don't communicate enough on this feature. That's the kind of misunderstanding you get when you build a multipurpose app and a single forum thread for this app and rooting/recoveries tutorials.
> 
> ProjecTivy tools can boot any Android tv device to any of its HDMI input (no need for premium either). Just need to enable the accessibility service. As this device has FengOs I don't expect it to behave differently.
> If It is anyways, it'll be quickly fixed as my T1 is on its way


The Xaomi Cinema 2 lets you chose an HDMI to load on boot, so I’m guessing the T1 will have that same option. Super nice feature most mainstream PJs don’t even offer.


----------



## humax

Fengmi Formovie T1: an ultra-short throw triple laser projector with Dolby Vision support. – – The PHC Blog – (passionhomecinema.fr) 

Gregory already opened a thread about the projector in view of receiving it within January. He says he will compare it with the Xiaomi C2 and keep the one he likes best for his own personal use. Since he has seen most USTs out there and he uses the same methodology for his tests, his opinion will be quite revealing as to the true worth of this model.


----------



## devikanths

Thanks for your thoughts @pionoor and @Brajesh


----------



## indieke2

humax said:


> Fengmi Formovie T1: an ultra-short throw triple laser projector with Dolby Vision support. – – The PHC Blog – (passionhomecinema.fr)
> 
> Gregory already opened a thread about the projector in view of receiving it within January. He says he will compare it with the Xiaomi C2 and keep the one he likes best for his own personal use. Since he has seen most USTs out there and he uses the same methodology for his tests, his opinion will be quite revealing as to the true worth of this model.


The tests of Gregory, are sure helping. But I lost my confidence in him. I have a Fengmi C 2, and there are issues on it with HDR. Yes if a, player like the Panasonic, handles the tone-mapping, no problem. But any other device, will give washed out blacks, and/or dark picture. The projector NOT recognize the HDR signal.

When discussing the XIAOMI C 2, he stated then that woaw, that projector balanced to HDR and Dolby vision, what is supposed to be. He is affiliated to Banggood, so he not wanted people confirm HDR was not good on the Fengmi C2. For me that was important. I travel, and in my home in Asia, I have all on my hard disc. So it is important HDR is well recognized. 

I must say, for the rest his tests are well done, and he has much reference material. For PQ, I think we have outstanding PQ on all machines. But as more and more HDR is used (so is Dolby Vision), it must handle that as well as SDR.


----------



## indieke2

pionoor said:


> I live in the USA. Don't place the order right away. If you chat with them first and ask for how much for 1 piece, they will quote you $2120. I paid extra $150 for shipping.


I ordered there too, My Fengmi C2 . Very reliable. they offered me same price, shipping included to Thailand.


----------



## lattiboy

indieke2 said:


> The tests of Gregory, are sure helping. But I lost my confidence in him. I have a Fengmi C 2, and there are issues on it with HDR. Yes if a, player like the Panasonic, handles the tone-mapping, no problem. But any other device, will give washed out blacks, and/or dark picture. The projector NOT recognize the HDR signal.
> 
> When discussing the XIAOMI C 2, he stated then that woaw, that projector balanced to HDR and Dolby vision, what is supposed to be. He is affiliated to Banggood, so he not wanted people confirm HDR was not good on the Fengmi C2. For me that was important. I travel, and in my home in Asia, I have all on my hard disc. So it is important HDR is well recognized.
> 
> I must say, for the rest his tests are well done, and he has much reference material. For PQ, I think we have outstanding PQ on all machines. But as more and more HDR is used (so is Dolby Vision), it must handle that as well as SDR.


Sorry about the Fengmi C2.

I will say the Xaomi C2 handles HDR better than any PJ I’ve ever had. DV or not it just works. I played around with some different modes, but the settings posted in this thread were good and I don’t see any need for improvement.


----------



## humax

indieke2 said:


> I have a Fengmi C 2, and there are issues on it with HDR. Yes if a, player like the Panasonic, handles the tone-mapping, no problem. But any other device, will give washed out blacks, and/or dark picture. The projector NOT recognize the HDR signal.





indieke2 said:


> He is affiliated to Banggood, so he not wanted people confirm HDR was not good on the Fengmi C2. For me that was important. I travel, and in my home in Asia, I have all on my hard disc. So it is important HDR is well recognized.



Nobody said he is an infallible picture guru (IMHO, no reviewer is 100% objective), but with regard to UST projectors he is the best source out there right now, mainly because he uses a standard methodology for many years. He has also seen the bulk of USTs currently available, something most of us cannot do as plain consumers.

As for HDR implementation, all I can say to you is this. As soon as I started looking into UST projectors, I have watched all available videos I could find on YouTube of them displaying demo HDR material. Not one of them displayed an image similar to the other. I am not even talking about small differences, but for a completely different picture. This is why it is a big deal these two models are DV officially certified. No more arbitrary tone mapping from now on!


----------



## indieke2

lattiboy said:


> Sorry about the Fengmi C2.
> 
> I will say the Xaomi C2 handles HDR better than any PJ I’ve ever had. DV or not it just works. I played around with some different modes, but the settings posted in this thread were good and I don’t see any need for improvement.


Good to hear. It is important for me. What are your sources? That is also something to know. I had Zidoo, Chrome-tv and really how good the PQ is in SDR, the HDR was impossible to get as good, like lights were dimmed inside the picture. Blacks often grey in HDR.

I sold my Fengmi C2, and wait till the tests about the Fengmi T 1 are published to decide between this model and the cheaper Xiaomi C2. Three lasers looks good, but can also give more problems. Wait and see.


----------



## lattiboy

indieke2 said:


> Good to hear. It is important for me. What are your sources? That is also something to know. I had Zidoo, Chrome-tv and really how good the PQ is in SDR, the HDR was impossible to get as good, like lights were dimmed inside the picture. Blacks often grey in HDR.
> 
> I sold my Fengmi C2, and wait till the tests about the Fengmi T 1 are published to decide between this model and the cheaper Xiaomi C2. Three lasers looks good, but can also give more problems. Wait and see.


I am using a Roku Ultra, but also played around with an Nvidia shield. I believe it has been proven that Apple TV has the best streaming quality (and my week or so using one I was impressed), but it does not do bitstream for my ripped media, so it had to go.

I think the newest Roku ultra is the best media player, especially considering how cheap they are on sale. I paid about $60 during Black Friday for mine. DV, Atmos, super fast interface, very stable.


----------



## Brajesh

If you mostly use your own content (BD, UHD rips), then Zidoo Z9X is great as it supports both DV and HDR10+, and can use the DV VS10 engine[/URL] for everything else that isn't DV. Basically, you can apply DV to all videos...


----------



## abaintor

Zidoo z9x is great (same as Dune real vision) : it reads everything, And it does tone mapping, but no streaming service works in 4k.

Nvidia shield can now read dolby vision rips with a forked kodi version, as the latest fire tv max. Shield is still better with its IA upscaling 

Also : all these streaming players (shield, fire tv max, zidoo z9x) don’t support full dolby vision (search for fel as full enhancement layer) which is needed for some 4k Blu-rays. 
A few linux based players support full dolby vision layers but you will loose streaming services.

But for a projector dune/zidoo is a great choice thanks to tone mapping on SDR and HDR


----------



## aerodynamics

abaintor said:


> A few linux based players support full dolby vision layers but you will loose streaming services.


Not to derail the thread, but can you tell me which players support FEL and MEL?


----------



## Brajesh

Believe the Zidoo Z9X (and variants) support both MEL and FEL for DV.


----------



## abaintor

aerodynamics said:


> Not to derail the thread, but can you tell me which players support FEL and MEL?


Devices with S922XJ chip, such as Ugoos AM6B or Minix.


Brajesh said:


> Believe the Zidoo Z9X (and variants) support both MEL and FEL for DV.


It is a lie, a guy tested it, see this link. Fel layer requires an additional HEVC decoder which is why few devices support it (except bluray UHD players and some linux players)
Sorry for off topic


----------



## jakechoy

Just finished the demo.


----------



## jakechoy

Video capture from my mobile with DV settings switching:


----------



## jakechoy

The great news? Tri-laser has no red sparkles. My buddy who saw the sparkles on the U2 didn't see it with the T1. 

Will post more feedback/comments later.


----------



## abaintor

jakechoy said:


> The great news? Tri-laser has no red sparkles. My buddy who saw the sparkles on the U2 didn't see it with the T1.


Can you confirm that the picture is crystal clear (no blur) compared to your previous experience (in 4k)?


----------



## jakechoy

abaintor said:


> Can you confirm that the picture is crystal clear (no blur) compared to your previous experience (in 4k)?


PQ is crystal clear.


----------



## jakechoy

So here is my feedback:

Pros:
1. Color and contrast amazing. 
2. Definitely brighter than even then D30.
3. As quiet as the Xiaomi C2.
4. Audio is amazingly good. If you don't have a sound system, the speakers filled the room. Low end bass was lacking obviously due to lack of a dedicated woofer.

Cons:
1. Even in English menu, the sub menus are in Chinese. It is the same interface as my C2 so I could guess what each setting meant.
2. Motion Comp doesn't seem to be working. I didn't test it further as it seemed ok to my buddy. I suspect it is due to firmware. 

In conclusion? I won't give up my C2 for this. But if I didn't have my C2, I will go for the T1. No brainer. This tri-laser checks all the boxes for me.


----------



## DeanM3

jakechoy said:


> So here is my feedback:
> 
> Pros:
> 1. Color and contrast amazing.
> 2. Definitely brighter than even then D30.
> 3. As quiet as the Xiaomi C2.
> 4. Audio is amazingly good. If you don't have a sound system, the speakers filled the room. Low end bass was lacking obviously due to lack of a dedicated woofer.
> 
> Cons:
> 1. Even in English menu, the sub menus are in Chinese. It is the same interface as my C2 so I could guess what each setting meant.
> 2. Motion Comp doesn't seem to be working. I didn't test it further as it seemed ok to my buddy. I suspect it is due to firmware.
> 
> In conclusion? I won't give up my C2 for this. But if I didn't have my C2, I will go for the T1. No brainer. This tri-laser checks all the boxes for me.


Thanks for all the analysis. It’s very helpful for us in the fence between the C2 and the T1. Do you find that the color contrast is Noticeably better than the C2? After using it for a while let us know if there are any areas where the C2 is superior. It’a a shame the motion compensation is not working, as I have the original Xiaomi laser tv and the motion is terrible, probably the worst part of the entire projector.

Also is the sound on a different level than the C2? I was thinking the B&W branding was just marketing but if it’s actually a legitimately upgraded set of hardware then that’s a huge advantage for the T1.

Looking forward to your extended comparison on the two.


----------



## GaeIta80

jakechoy said:


> So here is my feedback:
> 
> Pros:
> 1. Color and contrast amazing.
> 2. Definitely brighter than even then D30.
> 3. As quiet as the Xiaomi C2.
> 4. Audio is amazingly good. If you don't have a sound system, the speakers filled the room. Low end bass was lacking obviously due to lack of a dedicated woofer.
> 
> Cons:
> 1. Even in English menu, the sub menus are in Chinese. It is the same interface as my C2 so I could guess what each setting meant.
> 2. Motion Comp doesn't seem to be working. I didn't test it further as it seemed ok to my buddy. I suspect it is due to firmware.
> 
> In conclusion? I won't give up my C2 for this. But if I didn't have my C2, I will go for the T1. No brainer. This tri-laser checks all the boxes for me.



Thanks for the quick review, so helpful!!! I am on the fence between Mi C2 and the T1 too, could you expand why you would go for the T1, maybe also do a 1 vs 1 video comparison on a DV movie? Also, Xiaomi C2 has a dedicated Game Mode with 35ms low latency lag...does the T1 has same Game Mode optio for low input lag? Can you choose HDMI 2.1 as the C2? This info would help me a lot since planning to game on it too. Thanks soooo much! 😁


----------



## jakechoy

DeanM3 said:


> Thanks for all the analysis. It’s very helpful for us in the fence between the C2 and the T1. Do you find that the color contrast is Noticeably better than the C2? After using it for a while let us know if there are any areas where the C2 is superior. It’a a shame the motion compensation is not working, as I have the original Xiaomi laser tv and the motion is terrible, probably the worst part of the entire projector.
> 
> Also is the sound on a different level than the C2? I was thinking the B&W branding was just marketing but if it’s actually a legitimately upgraded set of hardware then that’s a huge advantage for the T1.
> 
> Looking forward to your extended comparison on the two.


To be honest - its not a fair comp as I don't have my ALR yet (no stock for 120") but the T1 was demoed on a full 120" ALR.

*Motion Compensation Issue: (Same as U2 Tri-laser?)*
I just tested Red Notice again on my C2 and i do feel something is off with the T1's motion compensation. It was set to high but i noticed similar issues as the U2. Is it a Tri-laser issue or just older firmware? Not sure - i Didn't have time to test out fully the T1's motion compensation. Bright Korean MTV videos all look great but those are already processed and tune for smooth motion.

I have the original Xiaomi before the C2; so I know what you are talking about. The C2 has issues too with motion comp on cartoons like We Bare Bears..some glitches but otherwise everything else looks smooth.

As for the speaker...other than lack of low end bass...it was thumbs up even for my audiophile buddy. Truly certified. But doens't apply to me as i have my dedicated audio setup.


----------



## jakechoy

GaeIta80 said:


> Thanks for the quick review, so helpful!!! I am on the fence between Mi C2 and the T1 too, could you expand why you would go for the T1, maybe also do a 1 vs 1 video comparison on a DV movie? Also, Xiaomi C2 has a dedicated Game Mode with 35ms low latency lag...does the T1 has same Game Mode optio for low input lag? Can you choose HDMI 2.1 as the C2? This info would help me a lot since planning to game on it too. Thanks soooo much! 😁


I would go for T1 due to the higher lums and supposedly ADLP 4.0 chip + (VERY IMPORTANT - you must be able to read the chinese sub menus). I was guessing the sub-menu for the T1 based on my C2 experience. I don't know what Game Mode looks like in Chinese..but for C2 it is there and works great. And yes, both C2 and T1 can choose HDMI 2.1. 

There are slight differeneces in their menus; so I was struggling to figure out the T1.

U can see from my crappy video shoot the menu even for DV is in Chinese. That is after I have set the system to English language.

My suggestion for those on the fence is to wait for Fengmi to release a new firmware. Hopefully that fix the motion comp issue and english sub menus. If you are in a hurry, C2 is the only choice.

BTW, I have no regret..the C2 is so much better than the original Xiaomi with T1 incremental improvements which i am ok without.

Now..what i really need is the 120" ALR screen!


----------



## GaeIta80

jakechoy said:


> To be honest - its not a fair comp as I don't have my ALR yet (no stock for 120") but the T1 was demoed on a full 120" ALR.
> 
> *Motion Compensation Issue: (Same as U2 Tri-laser?)*
> I just tested Red Notice again on my C2 and i do feel something is off with the T1's motion compensation. It was set to high but i noticed similar issues as the U2. Is it a Tri-laser issue or just older firmware? Not sure - i Didn't have time to test out fully the T1's motion compensation. Bright Korean MTV videos all look great but those are already processed and tune for smooth motion.
> 
> I have the original Xiaomi before the C2; so I know what you are talking about. The C2 has issues too with motion comp on cartoons like We Bare Bears..some glitches but otherwise everything else looks smooth.
> 
> As for the speaker...other than lack of low end bass...it was thumbs up even for my audiophile buddy. Truly certified. But doens't apply to me as i have my dedicated audio setup.


Fair points, thanks! How about Game Mode low input lag (like the C2) and HDMI 2.1 software options? Have you found/tested them on the T1? cheers!


----------



## GaeIta80

jakechoy said:


> I would go for T1 due to the higher lums and supposedly ADLP 4.0 chip + (VERY IMPORTANT - you must be able to read the chinese sub menus). I was guessing the sub-menu for the T1 based on my C2 experience. I don't know what Game Mode looks like in Chinese..but for C2 it is there and works great. And yes, both C2 and T1 can choose HDMI 2.1.
> 
> There are slight differeneces in their menus; so I was struggling to figure out the T1.
> 
> U can see from my crappy video shoot the menu even for DV is in Chinese. That is after I have set the system to English language.
> 
> My suggestion for those on the fence is to wait for Fengmi to release a new firmware. Hopefully that fix the motion comp issue and english sub menus. If you are in a hurry, C2 is the only choice.
> 
> BTW, I have no regret..the C2 is so much better than the original Xiaomi with T1 incremental improvements which i am ok without.
> 
> Now..what i really need is the 120" ALR screen!


Just seen that you have answered, thanks a lot! Nice for the 2.1 HDMI but pity for Game Mode...if you manage to find it, give me a nudge 

Thanks!


----------



## spocky12

Fwiw, don't let the Chinese text prevent you from buying this device if it's the only negative point for you.
I suppose that an updated firmware might be coming soon. And in the meantime, I'll update the auto translate method of ProjecTivy tools to take care of the new strings.


----------



## Brajesh

Thanks @jakechoy, great posts. Did you happen to look at the built-in focus pattern, and notice any color fringing? This seems to be a common issue w/tri-lasers as well (is anyway w/my Chroma).

Also, did you (or do you still) have a way to test if T1 does indeed support HDR10+?



abaintor said:


> It is a lie, a guy tested it, see this link. Fel layer requires an additional HEVC decoder which is why few devices support it (except bluray UHD players and some linux players)


Your link is for testing by the same guy (Mark Swift) for Dune. Don't know if there's a difference w/Zidoo, but I haven't seen those artifacts. But, Mark does say it isn't true FEL, but close enough from what I gather...


> This does not mean that the video essence of the FEL is utilised since that needs an additional HEVC decoder, however since this is only the difference signal between the 12-bit Dolby Master (or Mezzanine) and the HDR10(+) grade this is no great loss in the real world (unless you believe the hype - and spoiler alert: don't believe the hype!)


@spocky12, how soon do you expect to receive your unit?


----------



## GaeIta80

spocky12 said:


> Fwiw, don't let the Chinese text prevent you from buying this device if it's the only negative point for you.
> I suppose that an updated firmware might be coming soon. And in the meantime, I'll update the auto translate method of ProjecTivy tools to take care of the new strings.


Nice one. How does it work precisely? First time I hear about it


----------



## wkl168

Correct me if I’m wrong. I understand both Xiaomi C2 & Fengmi T1 are only HDMI 2.0b. Not 2.1


----------



## jakechoy

Brajesh said:


> Thanks @jakechoy, great posts. Did you happen to look at the built-in focus pattern, and notice any color fringing? This seems to be a common issue w/tri-lasers as well (is anyway w/my Chroma).
> 
> Also, did you (or do you still) have a way to test if T1 does indeed support HDR10+?


Glad to help..i think with these new batch of next-gen USTs..the only way is for forums folks to go see in person and provide feedback here.

Yes - no color fringing. I did go thru the focus menu and keystone menus. Perfect as far as I can tell on the ALR.

Unfortunately, no - Only had 4K DV content from Netflix and Disney streamed via Apple TV to test.

Oh and u just reminded me. They have a Vava Chroma there on the 100" ALR. Sorry my friend, everyone - including the dealer said the T1 blew the Chroma out of the water. And the Chroma is priced higher at the shop (they are authorised dealer for Vava). My guess is the DV and ADLP chip really helps bring UST to the next gen. The dealer expects T1 to outsell the Chroma.

Try to go see a T1 or C2 if you can. Esp the T1 since u already have a Tri-Laser and the brightness/colors with DV would be the key differentiator.


----------



## jakechoy

wkl168 said:


> Correct me if I’m wrong. I understand both Xiaomi C2 & Fengmi T1 are only HDMI 2.0b. Not 2.1


2.1 clearly stated on the HDMI selection sub-menu. Firmware upgrade has enabled 2.1 for both. eARC for both too. U get 2.1 on both systems. Both as probably running the same systemboard...they are literally the same size. just diff laser/aldp chip.


----------



## wkl168

jakechoy said:


> 2.1 clearly stated on the HDMI selection sub-menu. Firmware upgrade has enabled 2.1 for both. eARC for both too. U get 2.1 on both systems. Both as probably running the same systemboard...they are literally the same size. just diff laser/aldp chip.


May be u r right cos I don’t have the set myself or yet to watch it at dealer place. But I studied through all the website include china side. I only seeing it is showing the HDMI specification is 2.0b & not 2.1. That’s why I’m confused. You went to Element5?


----------



## jakechoy

wkl168 said:


> May be u r right cos I don’t have the set myself or yet to watch it at dealer place. But I studied through all the website include china side. I only seeing it is showing the HDMI specification is 2.0b & not 2.1. That’s why I’m confused. You went to Element5?


I have the C2 myself and u can read the C2 thread. HDMI 2.1 is there.

T1 was at element 5. It arrived today and they didn't know much abt it. I was was the one doing all the controls and testing. Esp DV.


----------



## wkl168

Thanks for your clarification. Will paying a visit there


----------



## spocky12

Brajesh said:


> @spocky12, how soon do you expect to receive your unit?


I don't have any tracking information yet. Hopefully soon (the more I read about it, the more I'm anxiously waiting for it)




GaeIta80 said:


> Nice one. How does it work precisely? First time I hear about it


I implemented it in ProjecTivy tools on the early days of FengOs, 18 months ago, when the UI was full Chinese. I had a partnership with NothingButLabel and Banggood who preinstalled my app for western customers (unfortunately a few weeks later they added English on their firmware ).
Technically, I manually added translations for the Chinese settings strings. Then, when you're in the settings, an accessibility service detects the focused element and displays a notification with the translation. Not perfect, but does the job.




jakechoy said:


> I have the C2 myself and u can read the C2 thread. HDMI 2.1 is there.


Maybe you both have missed the news regarding the fact that HDMI 2.0 can be referenced as HDMI 2.1 from now on... From what I understood, a device with HDMI 2.1 on the specs doesn't have to fulfill all HDMI 2.1 requirements anymore. Which means any HDMI 2.0 device can be rebranded as 2.1. Complete nonsense. I'm not saying that this device is not full HDMI 2.1 though, just that we can't trust just the specs.


----------



## DeanM3

I cancelled my Xiaomi C2 order and will waiting on more feedback / comparison before I buy one of the two. I really want one right now but as this is coming from china I'd like to wait for all the information. If anyone has used both the C2 and T1 please provide any comparison info.


----------



## jakechoy

DeanM3 said:


> I cancelled my Xiaomi C2 order and will waiting on more feedback / comparison before I buy one of the two. I really want one right now but as this is coming from china I'd like to wait for all the information. If anyone has used both the C2 and T1 please provide any comparison info.


there's really only 2 choice ...T1 vs C2. The dealer have A300, D30 and a bunch of other USTs. Both T1 and C2 outperforms more expensive models. I'm not sure why folks would even consider Samsung or Hisense etc now. I will go check our Samsung UST *LSP9T * at the Samsung showroom next week just to be unbiased in feedback.But at 4x the price...hard to justify.


----------



## Brajesh

Man, you're making it hard to resist the T1 😭. I'm not surprised it "blew the Chroma out of the water"—at least on blacks/contrast because Xiaomi/Fengmi/Wemax continue to leverage their secret sauce w/ALPD there. Chroma has very good color vibrancy and range, so I'd image T1 should be similar on this though?


----------



## Adamgoodapp

jakechoy said:


> there's really only 2 choice ...T1 vs C2. The dealer have A300, D30 and a bunch of other USTs. Both T1 and C2 outperforms more expensive models. I'm not sure why folks would even consider Samsung or Hisense etc now. I will go check our Samsung UST *LSP9T * at the Samsung showroom next week just to be unbiased in feedback.But at 4x the price...hard to justify.


Was there any difference color wise between C2 and T1? Thought the tri laser would give the T1 a bigger advantage.


----------



## lattiboy

jakechoy said:


> So here is my feedback:
> 
> Pros:
> 1. Color and contrast amazing.
> 2. Definitely brighter than even then D30.
> 3. As quiet as the Xiaomi C2.
> 4. Audio is amazingly good. If you don't have a sound system, the speakers filled the room. Low end bass was lacking obviously due to lack of a dedicated woofer.
> 
> Cons:
> 1. Even in English menu, the sub menus are in Chinese. It is the same interface as my C2 so I could guess what each setting meant.
> 2. Motion Comp doesn't seem to be working. I didn't test it further as it seemed ok to my buddy. I suspect it is due to firmware.
> 
> In conclusion? I won't give up my C2 for this. But if I didn't have my C2, I will go for the T1. No brainer. This tri-laser checks all the boxes for me.


Thanks man! I do feel a bit silly having the C2 and upgrading to this, but there are certain things I watch where the larger color coverage is worth it.


jakechoy said:


> there's really only 2 choice ...T1 vs C2. The dealer have A300, D30 and a bunch of other USTs. Both T1 and C2 outperforms more expensive models. I'm not sure why folks would even consider Samsung or Hisense etc now. I will go check our Samsung UST *LSP9T * at the Samsung showroom next week just to be unbiased in feedback.But at 4x the price...hard to justify.


This has been extremely weird to me. 

I will now have owned four laser PJs when I get the T1. I’ve also seen three other in person on proper setups and got to watch content I’m very familiar with.

The Fengmi and Xaomi ones are SO MUCH BETTER in every picture quality metric it feels crazy that people are still paying at least double the price for the LG, Samsung, and Hisense stuff.

At some point Xaomi or Fengmi will offer local US service and I just can’t imagine buying or suggesting anything else.


----------



## Brajesh

If any of you have been following my VAVA Chroma thread in the 3K+ forum, I'm finding (after initial joys with each) significant issues w/both Chroma and HDFury in the mix. Purplish tint w/latter for all DV content (and SDR/HDR content converted to LLDV), and noticeable ghosting in the picture even w/MEMC turned completely off. Making me seriously consider T1 to get pure HDR, DV, 10+ (if it's indeed there) and not futz with HDFury.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Brajesh said:


> If any of you have been following my VAVA Chroma thread in the 3K+ forum, I'm finding (after initial joys with each) significant issues w/both Chroma and HDFury in the mix. Purplish tint w/latter for all DV content (and SDR/HDR content converted to LLDV), and noticeable ghosting in the picture even w/MEMC turned completely off. Making me seriously consider T1 to get pure HDR, DV, 10+ (if it's indeed there) and not futz with HDFury.


Current bug with MEMC (Seems some of these other projectors also have the same bug?) even if you turn it off its still on.
A workaround for now until a firmware fix is to open the settings menu during playback and turn off MEMC from the advanced display menu (Setting it to "Close")

Let me know if that works for you!

Interested in hearing more about your HDFury and Chroma issues, as I was debating getting one or not, probably the newer VRROOM model, and I am still waiting for the Chroma, my esitmated date is February, but the way things are going I have a feeling it could be much later than that.

My feeling about the HDFury products is that they are so complex that the difference between working and not working is a matter of configuring it correctly, and information on all the advanced settings is sparse and usually word of mouth from one place to another. Doesn't seem to be a good centralized source for info.

I emailed them asking if I could talk to an enginner and get more info so I could do a proper tutorial and really rip one of these open, but they never emailed me back.


----------



## Brajesh

I've been on HDFury's Discord messaging group for hours LOL. It isn't complicated to get started with suggested settings, but when things don't quite work as expected (whether CEC, random input switching, weird colors), then it gets complex quick.


----------



## abaintor

HDFury is a waste of money : it does not recreate the dynamic metadata contained in DV or HDR10+ (it is unabled to decode it anyway), it only tricks static HDR data while letting you customize the max luminance setting according to your projector capabilities. It is not a device that would analyze frame by frame and would do dynamic tone mapping.
So the best and only issue is to have native support for high dynamic range. HDR10+ is not a must have (like HD-DVD it may die very soon), however Dolby vision is growing quickly (streaming services & 4K blurays)

About the T1, I feel concerned however about these MEMC limitations and ghosting effects, and I am not sure we could bet that a firmware update would resolve everything.
I own a xiaomi 1S 4K and I suffer from the lack of MEMC (I do love soap opera effect ), this is the reason why I use a software PC solution (SVP) to get software MEMC... awaiting for my next UST projector. I really hope that these issues will be solved quickly...


----------



## lattiboy

So from what I gather if you disable MEMC as I do there are essentially no faults with the T1? MEMC makes me feel queasy and I only use it for sports very occasionally, but I understand why some people love it. I’m very sensitive to speckle, SDE, and soap opera effect. 

Just a little visual snowflake over here!


----------



## DeanM3

So with MEMC on the lowest setting on the Xiaomi C2 are you still getting smoothing/soap opera effect?


----------



## Brajesh

If MEMC worked well, that's one thing, but the way it's implemented so far, the side effects are awful. I'd rather have slight judder w/24p rendered at 60 than poor MEMC.

The ghosting problem I'm seeing on Chroma may not be due to MEMC, or that turning it off doesn't really turn it off? In any case, it's annoying.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Brajesh said:


> If MEMC worked well, that's one thing, but the way it's implemented so far, the side effects are awful. I'd rather have slight judder w/24p rendered at 60 than poor MEMC.
> 
> The ghosting problem I'm seeing on Chroma may not be due to MEMC, or that turning it off doesn't really turn it off? In any case, it's annoying.


I am with you, I cant stand soap opera effect.
However seeing that you have the Chroma I did quote you above with a possible solution and looking forward to hearing if it works for you and makes the Chroma a better experience.


----------



## humax

There is no perfect projector, otherwise we would all be buying the same model. I am sure, when people start receiving their units, they will find things to nitpick with the T1 as well. However, I have been looking for the past year for a possible replacement for my current 0.65" 1080p lamp-based UST and this is the first model that gives me a strong urge to buy it.

I can live with a basically useless OS, as I will be using my Shield Pro anyway, but things like the Chinese submenus or motion fluidity need to be addressed ASAP. I have no wish to learn Chinese at an older age. Ten years ago, I used to spend days in order to try and solve an image problem, now I just want a trouble-free image. Vava promises two firmware updates a month for the Chroma, Fengmi, on the other hand, are not known for frequent firmware updates. Logically, this model and the C2 will be their best sellers, so perhaps they will be prompted to optimize their software and iron out the bugs.

As for HDR10+, it has Samsung's full support, so it will not die off that easily. I believe there is a lot of HDR10+ compatible stuff on Amazon Prime.

Finally, since the T1 seems to have decent sound performance, a separate subwoofer output would be nice. Although, I see there is a line out, perhaps this could used as a SW output as well?


----------



## Brajesh

Lot more DV content out there than HDR10+, but if you're going to buy a new UST, you may as well go for T1... all other things being equal, we'll see.

Now just watch Wemax release a successor to A300 with DV, HDR10+ and higher lumens advertised .


----------



## DeanM3

"Finally, since the T1 seems to have decent sound performance, a separate subwoofer output would be nice. Although, I see there is a line out, perhaps this could used as a SW output as well?"

I'm interested in this as well. The original Xiaomi 1080p Laser projector would always disable the onboard speaker if you plugged anything into the Audio out jack. If anyone could test this on a T1 that would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## humax

DeanM3 said:


> I'm interested in this as well. The original Xiaomi 1080p Laser projector would always disable the onboard speaker if you plugged anything into the Audio out jack. If anyone could test this on a T1 that would be greatly appreciated!



If the internal speaker was cut off in your model, it is likely the same happens with the line out in the T1. Does anyone know, if there is an HDMI/SW/LFE out extractor or no such thing exists? I do have a spare 12" older SW I could use that would compliment the internal sound system nicely.


----------



## wkl168

spocky12 said:


> Maybe you both have missed the news regarding the fact that HDMI 2.0 can be referenced as HDMI 2.1 from now on... From what I understood, a device with HDMI 2.1 on the specs doesn't have to fulfill all HDMI 2.1 requirements anymore. Which means any HDMI 2.0 device can be rebranded as 2.1. Complete nonsense. I'm not saying that this device is not full HDMI 2.1 though, just that we can't trust just the specs.


Oh ya, forgot about that. You are right  I fully understand & it make sense now. I following thru this C2 & T1 from the day it launched, it only announced as 2.0b & not 2.1. If they really can do 2.1 they already shouting it loud when they marketing it.

Yes after the HDMI allow it can rebranding it, it mess up & can confuse everyone. It is a total nonsense now. I also reading Hesense recently just announced some of their model will be 2.1 after their upcoming firmware, very likely they just rebranding it.

Don’t think all this old(recent) model can really do the real/full 2.1, if their chipset is not ready when they launch. Look at the mess of the 2.1 issue of all those AVR…… but hope I’m wrong.


----------



## Adamgoodapp

The T1 has eArc which is enough to call it 2.1. Who knows if it has VRR 120hz 4K, that’s the hdmi 2.1 specs for you.


----------



## jakechoy

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Current bug with MEMC (Seems some of these other projectors also have the same bug?) even if you turn it off its still on.


I can't speak for the T1, but I did some MEMC tests on the C2 this morning. See here: Xiaomi Laser TV 2


----------



## indieke2

All very interesting. It looks at first this model will be more interesting then the Xiaomi C2. But..... whatis important for me is GOOD HDR handeling, something the Fengmi C2 did not do. Both have Dolby vision. Now the 3 lasers. I am not yet convinced this is better. In all past projectors, with different color beams, it also gave issues, mostly color bleeding. 

The only advantage I see here if there are NO issues, is that people like me, who are a bit sensitive to rainbows, could less suffer form this effect. As I sold my Fengmi C2, I will decide before buying when having more feedback and tests.


----------



## jakechoy

indieke2 said:


> All very interesting. It looks at first this model will be more interesting then the Xiaomi C2. But..... whatis important for me is GOOD HDR handeling, something the Fengmi C2 did not do. Both have Dolby vision. Now the 3 lasers. I am not yet convinced this is better. In all past projectors, with different color beams, it also gave issues, mostly color bleeding.
> 
> The only advantage I see here if there are NO issues, is that people like me, who are a bit sensitive to rainbows, could less suffer form this effect. As I sold my Fengmi C2, I will decide before buying when having more feedback and tests.


Agreed - and you have to see it in person to see if it affects you. The U2 had red sparkles for my friend, but the T1 was super clear for him; both tri-laser.


----------



## jakechoy

wkl168 said:


> Thanks for your clarification. Will paying a visit there


Please test the MEMC when u are there. I didn't do much testing of it yesterday. FYI, it is in the chinese sub-menu.


----------



## abaintor

Adamgoodapp said:


> The T1 has eArc which is enough to call it 2.1. Who knows if it has VRR 120hz 4K, that’s the hdmi 2.1 specs for you.


I don't see the benefits of HDMI 2.1 except earc : the projector is locked to 60hz, so VRR is useless

And yes about MEMC, additional tests are expected and will help to figure this out (with the parade of Spears and Munsils peppers), maybe you were in lower setting mode thanks to chinese menus...


----------



## abaintor

Brajesh said:


> Your link is for testing by the same guy (Mark Swift) for Dune. Don't know if there's a difference w/Zidoo, but I haven't seen those artifacts. But, Mark does say it isn't true FEL, but close enough from what I gather...


Dune HD real vision and Zidoo z9x share the same chip so this is the same issue/limitations (I don't have artifacts either on my dune so they fixed that part). However dolby vision FEL cannot be ignored, on Basic instincts it represents 20% of the video stream size. In the future it will get more and more important


----------



## Doogie2368

humax said:


> Updated RRP prices for the Chinese market are €2353 in EUR or $2668 in USA or A$3697 in AU (quotes from NothingbutLabel store). Obviously, you have to factor in shipping, VAT and import charges, where applicable.
> 
> Also, here is a chart with the current mainstream ALPD models and their characteristics. Two mistakes I spotted is the D30 being a 12500 lumens model and the T1 is also HDR10+ compatible.
> 
> 
> View attachment 3214974


Damn T1...No 3D. Back to the drawing board....


----------



## Brajesh

Well, I'll be joining you guys... watched the 'Harry Potter' 20th anniversary special on HMAX and the first two episodes of 'Boba Fett' on D+, and the awful ghosting issues on Chroma just pushed me over the edge. Realize as @humax rightly pointed out, no PJ is perfect, but hoping T1 will be a cut above the rest. Now to find a cheap 1080p front PJ for 3D.



Doogie2368 said:


> Damn T1...No 3D. Back to the drawing board....


What I've learned with media players after many years I neglected to apply to projectors. Trying to get everything in one box/solution will leave you with not-so-great for everything you want in that.


----------



## humax

Brajesh said:


> Now to find a cheap 1080p front PJ for 3D.


The Chinese version of this might interest you then: Xiaomi Mijia Projector Youth Edition Full HD 4K TV Video Proyector 1080P Bluetooth For Phone Computer Music 3D Movie Projector - AliExpress Consumer Electronics


----------



## lattiboy

Brajesh said:


> Well, I'll be joining you guys... watched the 'Harry Potter' 20th anniversary special on HMAX and the first two episodes of 'Boba Fett' on D+, and the awful ghosting issues on Chroma just pushed me over the edge. Realize as @humax rightly pointed out, no PJ is perfect, but hoping T1 will be a cut above the rest. Now to find a cheap 1080p front PJ for 3D.
> 
> 
> What I've learned with media players after many years I neglected to apply to projectors. Trying to get everything in one box/solution will leave you with not-so-great for everything you want in that.


Thats crazy nobody (including Chris Majestic) noticed the ghosting. I was dangerously close to getting one back when they had the insane promo for the free screen.


----------



## Brajesh

Chris Majestic seems like a nice guy, but his reviews aren't deep enough, and kinda superficial or aimed at the general public. There are others on Vava's Facebook group bringing up the ghosting issue as well.

With Chroma, had initially tested with the usual test clips and samples, most of which have bright scenes. And, these do look gorgeous. Had noticed blacks weren't up to my Wemax A300's standards, but having 3D and using HDFury initially seemed to make everything better... until I started noticing two big issues: ghosting w/or w/o HDFury, and purple tinting w/HDFury. Anyway, back to topic with T1  ...


----------



## Idyll

DeanM3 said:


> "Finally, since the T1 seems to have decent sound performance, a separate subwoofer output would be nice. Although, I see there is a line out, perhaps this could used as a SW output as well?"
> 
> I'm interested in this as well. The original Xiaomi 1080p Laser projector would always disable the onboard speaker if you plugged anything into the Audio out jack. If anyone could test this on a T1 that would be greatly appreciated!


PM me. I have an idea.


----------



## Brajesh

humax said:


> The Chinese version of this might interest you then: Xiaomi Mijia Projector Youth Edition Full HD 4K TV Video Proyector 1080P Bluetooth For Phone Computer Music 3D Movie Projector - AliExpress Consumer Electronics


Not to derail this thread, but higher the lumens the better for 3D, and this one only advertises 500. Something like Optoma HD146X can be had for a bit more money with 3600 lumens. Lots of choices, several laser based as well.

Do have a question though... still haven't opened up my VAVA 120" ALR screen box. Now as I'm going with a dual projector setup, with T1 and a cheap 1080p DLP for 3D, does it makes sense to stick with my current 1.1 gain white screen. Or would the ALR still be the better choice overall?


----------



## jakechoy

lattiboy said:


> Thats crazy nobody (including Chris Majestic) noticed the ghosting. I was dangerously close to getting one back when they had the insane promo for the free screen.


me too. Was about to jump to get the Chroma back then.


Brajesh said:


> Not to derail this thread, but higher the lumens the better for 3D, and this one only advertises 500. Something like Optoma HD146X can be had for a bit more money with 3600 lumens. Lots of choices, several laser based as well.
> 
> Do have a question though... still haven't opened up my VAVA 120" ALR screen box. Now as I'm going with a dual projector setup, with T1 and a cheap 1080p DLP for 3D, does it makes sense to stick with my current 1.1 gain white screen. Or would the ALR still be the better choice overall?


The issue is that the 1080 DLP is not suited for the ALR UST screen. Both reflect lights at different angles.

I say test out both screens once the T1 arrives?


----------



## Brajesh

Guessing VAVA will sort out these initial Chroma issues, but feel I'll be better off anyway with Fengmi's deeper blacks and better contrast, which remain Xiaomi/Fengmi's ALPD secret. And native DV and HDR10+ of course without having to futz around with HDFury.


----------



## abaintor

I also consider buying the T1 (depending on the test results) while keeping my Xiami 1S 4K for 3D.
However, the chroma which is trilaser handles 3D, so there is no reason why we could not get a good trilaser (without speckles), with dolby vision support AND with 3D support.
There are still a lot of people with a large 3D library willing to stick on 3D projectors. I am not sure the extra cost is significant for those companies (maybe only a software matter), so I still have hope for another model handling all these criterias.


----------



## Brajesh

Xiaomi (I had the original 4K, not 1S) and Wemax's 3D are better than Chroma's. Better depth, separation of 3D planes and pop-out effects. Chroma's to me feels more flat in comparison. On its own, it's acceptable quality.

With none of the new UST's from China having 3D support, afraid it's being dropped. Love 3D, and it's been on life support for quite a while now, but seems it's on death bed now. But, will continue to enjoy the nearly 500 titles I've amassed over the years.


----------



## humax

Brajesh said:


> Not to derail this thread, but higher the lumens the better for 3D, and this one only advertises 500. Something like Optoma HD146X can be had for a bit more money with 3600 lumens. Lots of choices, several laser based as well.
> 
> Do have a question though... still haven't opened up my VAVA 120" ALR screen box. Now as I'm going with a dual projector setup, with T1 and a cheap 1080p DLP for 3D, does it makes sense to stick with my current 1.1 gain white screen. Or would the ALR still be the better choice overall?



These are quality led lumens and the Optoma will not have the color, sharpness/focus and the precision image of the Xiaomi. You are right though, it will be brighter. In general, these cheap 3d lamp-based models are nothing to write home about in terms of picture quality.

As for the ALR screen, it depends on what material is used. The best quality is the black crystal stuff, however cheaper screens like the Vava are usually pet grid. These also come in the grey ALR variety and in such a case, they can also be used with a standard throw projector in order to improve contrast, but at lower light rejecting specs. In fact, in the comments of the following video it is suggested the VAVA screen can be also used with a normal projector.

VAVA 100 Inch Ambient Light Rejecting Screen Full Set Up & Demo | Best ALR Screen? - YouTube 

"I have 2 ust screen and yes it work 100% with standard projector. I have vava, ommc, 4050 projector."


----------



## Brajesh

Found a PET ALR screen demo on YT using a long throw PJ from about 13ft away. Looks good to me. May have to try both when T1 arrives, and w/a 3D lamp or laser long throw.


----------



## abaintor

Maybe you should hold your orders, a first feedback from Grégory mentions a reddish picture (with snapshots joined), which seems to be a drawback with trilasers
I hope that it may be rebalanced with color settings...


----------



## Brajesh

That would've been the sensible thing to do, LOL, but already ordered mine. Too red or too purple, take your poison I guess. Hopefully, the red can be toned down in the picture settings.

Here are the pics Gregory posted that @abaintor is referring to. The pics are from supplier NothingButLabel:



https://zupimages.net/up/22/01/zad7.jpg




https://zupimages.net/up/22/01/c0fx.png




https://zupimages.net/up/22/01/ydht.jpg


----------



## DeanM3

So the red assumption is just camera photos taken from the suppliers unit? Does Gregory actually have a unit in his hands?


----------



## abaintor

No this is a third user feedback. The test is expected later unless he puts his hands on a borrowed unit like he did with the C2


----------



## zoomx2

I don't care too much about other ppl reviews honestly. I can see from my own eyes that's more important. All the demo real-life videos and pictures convinced me to go ahead. I do afraid to buy a unit from a China company that doesn't have much track record in terms of reliability. The seller in Alibaba post a few demo videos lately.


----------



## zoomx2

This is what I found





Wholesale WP Fengmi Formovie T1 Laser Projector 4K 2800ANSI Full Color Triple Laser Projector For Home Cinema Laser Projector From m.alibaba.com


Wholesale WP Fengmi Formovie T1 Laser Projector 4K 2800ANSI Full Color Triple Laser Projector For Home Cinema Laser Projector from on m.alibaba.com




m.alibaba.com


----------



## Brajesh

Same supplier shared this other T1 vs original VAVA comparison w/me. He said both PJ's were in standard picture mode, and the clip a standard HDR10. T1's picture looks more natural to me, closer to the source. Too many factors, variables with all these samples being shared. Gregory's testing and users' here will reveal things more clearly.


----------



## Adamgoodapp

Going back to this review. The T1 looks way les red than the Hisense.


----------



## lattiboy

The pictures from Gregory seem out of place with all the other impressions and reviews I’ve seen so far. Who knows if it’s a quality control issue or the reader just didn’t realize that tri lasers tend to need color correction for the photos you take. My Bomaker looks insane when you don’t color correct photos, even though in person the colors are excellent.

Also, just got my shipping notification so I’ll hopefully have one in my possession by the end of next week or early the one after. DHL to Seattle is generally 5 days or so in previous experience.


----------



## humax

lattiboy said:


> Also, just got my shipping notification so I’ll hopefully have one in my possession by the end of next week or early the one after. DHL to Seattle is generally 5 days or so in previous experience.



I am not lifting a finger, unless Gregory measures and gives it a thumbs up, but since you are the only one in this forum who already owns the C2, you could act as mini-Gregory for us by comparing them and posting which one you like best and are going to keep.


----------



## Ricoflashback

A general question. Amazon sells the Wemax and other Chinese manufactured products on their website. In fact, I paid a couple hundred more to buy a Chinese tube amplifier through Amazon and it was shipped quickly with full Amazon support. We all love a great deal. But isn’t spending a couple grand on anything without any warranty or local country support very risky? I don’t see paying for shipping to China and all the tax hassles and the time involved as very appealing. I guess you folks are less risk averse than I am.


----------



## Brajesh

Unfortunately the Wemax and other Chinese units sold on Amazon aren't the models most of us want only sold in China. T1 will be my 3rd import, and (fingers crossed) no problems so far.
------------------------------
Have spent the day doing nothing but tests with both Chroma and Wemax A300. My Chroma is packed up and ready for eBay, with A300 back in my home theater... will it be replaced by T1? Have to wait and see.

I was wrong about HDFury, VRROOM unit in my case, being the culprit of the purple tinting in the picture... rather, it was the HDFury in combi w/Chroma. In combi w/A300, a different story. Also, going back to A300, I re-appreciated how much sharper it is than Chroma, and how much better the blacks are. I was kinda wrong about this as well. See the video I linked... T1 has a lot to step up to vs A300 .


----------



## DeanM3

My T1 ships tomorrow, but unfortunately I only have the original 1080p Xiaomi to compare it to. In my specific case, the improved B&W audio is a huge factor for me as I don’t have any external audio hooked up. So I’m willing to sacrifice some color accuracy for the extra lumens and upgraded audio if that’s the case.


----------



## Ricoflashback

DeanM3 said:


> My T1 ships tomorrow, but unfortunately I only have the original 1080p Xiaomi to compare it to. In my specific case, the improved B&W audio is a huge factor for me as I don’t have any external audio hooked up. So I’m willing to sacrifice some color accuracy for the extra lumens and upgraded audio if that’s the case.


The audio setup on the T1 sounds awesome. I’m interested in the contrast levels versus the Hisense PX1-Pro. The latter has the support and U.S. distribution channels I feel safer with. But I admire performance and who knows - a unit could show up locally at a discounted price. But the Chinese menus and support issues are too much for me to take that financial risk. But I look forward to your posts and pics.


----------



## jakechoy

Ricoflashback said:


> The audio setup on the T1 sounds awesome. I’m interested in the contrast levels versus the Hisense PX1-Pro. The latter has the support and U.S. distribution channels I feel safer with. But I admire performance and who knows - a unit could show up locally at a discounted price. But the Chinese menus and support issues are too much for me to take that financial risk. But I look forward to your posts and pics.


yes - its a gamble for sure; i was very nervous about ordering a high ticket item of aliexpress. But service was top notch. Warranty is an issue having to send back to China. My original Xiaomi had local warranty; but the dealer have not brought in the C2 back in Nov 2021 and I wanted to get one before Xmas...haha.

If I knew about the T1 release, I would probably have waited instead of getting the C2 as the T1 have local warranty over here.


----------



## lattiboy

Ricoflashback said:


> A general question. Amazon sells the Wemax and other Chinese manufactured products on their website. In fact, I paid a couple hundred more to buy a Chinese tube amplifier through Amazon and it was shipped quickly with full Amazon support. We all love a great deal. But isn’t spending a couple grand on anything without any warranty or local country support very risky? I don’t see paying for shipping to China and all the tax hassles and the time involved as very appealing. I guess you folks are less risk averse than I am.


I mean, Alibaba is no worse than any other retailer to deal with products in my experience. You gotta drop $150 to ship back, but vendors are OBSESSED with their metrics on Alibaba, and I feel just as good as I do ordering 3rd party on Amazon or Walmart.

I generally like to be able to return locally, but the features and price of the Chinese units break that math for me. $2200 shipped for a tri laser with the best DLP blacks and best audio available is a crazy value, you could buy two units and throw one away and still be better off than getting a Hisense or Samsung model


----------



## Ricoflashback

lattiboy said:


> I mean, Alibaba is no worse than any other retailer to deal with products in my experience. You gotta drop $150 to ship back, but vendors are OBSESSED with their metrics on Alibaba, and I feel just as good as I do ordering 3rd party on Amazon or Walmart.
> 
> I generally like to be able to return locally, but the features and price of the Chinese units break that math for me. $2200 shipped for a tri laser with the best DLP blacks and best audio available is a crazy value, you could buy two units and throw one away and still be better off than getting a Hisense or Samsung model


I think the price is more with taxes but I understand your point. It would be nice to see a head to head comparison on sites like projectorcentral.com but I haven't seen any reviews like this on the Fengmi projector. And I'd never equate Alibaba to Amazon as far as customer service, warranty and resolving support issues. As long as you are happy, that's all that counts.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Nice spec review of the T1. I'm not sure what the HDR movie spec contrast ratio means. I've never heard of it before. I also can't find any warranty info or how it would be serviced. ***Just saw 1 year warranty mentioned. (Select see all description for in depth info)









[US$3,199.99] FENGMI Formovie 4K Iaser Projector T1 ALPD RGB+ Panchromatic 2800 ANSI Lumens 5G WIFI MEMC Automatically Eletric Focus Keystone Correction 3+64GB WIFI FENG OS 10.7Billion Color Display Home Cinema Projectors & Accessories from Computers & Office on banggood.com


FENGMI Formovie 4K Iaser Projector T1 ALPD RGB+ Panchromatic 2800 ANSI Lumens 5G WIFI MEMC Automatically Eletric Focus Keystone Correction 3+64GB WIFI FENG OS 10.7Billion Color Display Home Cinema




usa-m.banggood.com


----------



## tsubasa83

it may be obvious, but I've never seen a UST projector installed upside-down to the ceiling (say 80cm by the projected wall)

is there a reason why not to do it?

that would sort out the positioning in the middle of the carpet (too far from the wall cabinet) and in the way of the center channel but still produce a 120-150' image


----------



## jakechoy

tsubasa83 said:


> it may be obvious, but I've never seen a UST projector installed upside-down to the ceiling (say 80cm by the projected wall)
> 
> is there a reason why not to do it?
> 
> that would sort out the positioning in the middle of the carpet (too far from the wall cabinet) and in the way of the center channel but still produce a 120-150' image


Based on the 3 tri-lasers I have seen and my C2 (see my pic comparison of size vs S1). The difficulty would be the weight. They are much bigger than previous gen USTs. I would also think it affects the audio projection (if using built-in speakers) when mounted on ceiling. 

Friends I know are going with custom sliding cabinets or do what I do..use a coffee table; they have enough depth for a 120" easily.


----------



## DeanM3

The box for the T1 shows Voltage support for 200-240V. Anyone in NA worried about this? Do all the other Chinese UST's show support for 110V?


----------



## jakechoy

DeanM3 said:


> The box for the T1 shows Voltage support for 200-240V. Anyone in NA worried about this? Do all the other Chinese UST's show support for 110V?
> View attachment 3221517


should be multi-voltage. Its the same label as my C2. Check with @lattiboy - his box should also say 200-240 but he's running 110V.


----------



## Brajesh

My original Xiaomi 4K and now Wemax A300 show the same 200-240 voltage, and I’ve been running it on 110 for over 2 years now without any issues.


----------



## GaeIta80

Ok so far, based on few info gathered here, Greg's blog, FB pages and Alibaba video demos, these are my thoughts about Xiaomi C2 vs T1 (vs my needs for a UST pj)

Xiaomi C2:
PROs

great DV/DA performances
low input gaming (35ms)
super sharp image, colour accuracy and quite
bit cheaper
full English menus
MEMC working smooth
eARC and HDMI 2.1
CONs

no tri-laser
no full BT 2020 colour coverage
weaker built-in audio system
no HDR10+

Fengmi T1:
PROs

tri-laser
DV/DA & HDR10+
super sharp image, colour gamut/range and quite
Nice Dolby surround built-in system, just lacking an external SW for pumping bass
eARC and HDMI 2.1

CONs

bit more expensive ($300-400 ish)
no full English menus (sub menu in CN)
MEMC seems not working smooth
some reddish tint (tbc)
Oversarurated HDR colours (Red + Green)
no low input Game Mode found so far (if 50-60ms+ then will be a big drawback for me)

I might have missed some bits, please add your thoughts!

Both seem like a great choice anyway but until there isn't a deep-dive T1 review for a proper head to head, will be hard to choose for me...

G.


----------



## DeanM3

It's crazy how much heavier the T1 is than the C2 ( 50% more - 13.5kg vs 9.0kg ). I'm guessing this has to do with a heavier laser assembly ( ALPD 4.0 ) + increased cooling for the additional lumens + better audio drivers?


----------



## lattiboy

GaeIta80 said:


> Ok so far, based on few info gathered here, Greg's blog, FB pages and Alibaba video demos, these are my thoughts about Xiaomi C2 vs T1 (vs my needs for a UST pj)
> 
> Xiaomi C2:
> PROs
> 
> great DV/DA performances
> low input gaming (35ms)
> super sharp image, colour accuracy and quite
> bit cheaper
> full English menus
> MEMC working smooth
> eARC and HDMI 2.1
> CONs
> 
> no tri-laser
> no full BT 2020 colour coverage
> weaker built-in audio system
> no HDR10+
> 
> Fengmi T1:
> PROs
> 
> tri-laser
> DV/DA & HDR10+
> super sharp image, colour gamut/range and quite
> Nice Dolby surround built-in system, just lacking an external SW for pumping bass
> eARC and HDMI 2.1
> 
> CONs
> 
> bit more expensive ($300-400 ish)
> no full English menus (sub menu in CN)
> MEMC seems not working smooth
> some reddish tint (tbc)
> Oversarurated HDR colours (Red + Green)
> no low input Game Mode found so far (if 50-60ms+ then will be a big drawback for me)
> 
> I might have missed some bits, please add your thoughts!
> 
> Both seem like a great choice anyway but until there isn't a deep-dive T1 review for a proper head to head, will be hard to choose for me...
> 
> G.


I think your C2 list is correct, but we just have to wait until somebody actually gets and uses a T1, not just in a demo situation. Also, very likely a firmware drops quickly as happened with the C2 which could resolve most of those issues.

I still think Gregory’s pictures are nonsense as that’s exactly how most tri lasers look if you don’t color correct the photos and all the other reviews and videos I’ve seen say the colors are well balanced.

I’m annoyed because I got DHL shipping notifications, but nobody has picked it up yet, so I’m likely looking at mid next week to get my T1. Tricky little nonsense the vendor Quanzhou Ruichi Technology did to avoid a 10% discount if not shipped by Jan 8th. Not super impressed with that…..


----------



## DeanM3

@lattiboy it's going to be a race to see who gets theirs first. Mine was picked up by Fedex this morning.


----------



## pionoor

lattiboy said:


> I’m annoyed because I got DHL shipping notifications, but nobody has picked it up yet, so I’m likely looking at mid next week to get my T1. Tricky little nonsense the vendor Quanzhou Ruichi Technology did to avoid a 10% discount if not shipped by Jan 8th. Not super impressed with that…..


Same thing, I got tracking number two days ago, but it seems the package has not been picked up yet, or the supplier has not hand it to DHL.


----------



## GaeIta80

lattiboy said:


> I think your C2 list is correct, but we just have to wait until somebody actually gets and uses a T1, not just in a demo situation. Also, very likely a firmware drops quickly as happened with the C2 which could resolve most of those issues.
> 
> I still think Gregory’s pictures are nonsense as that’s exactly how most tri lasers look if you don’t color correct the photos and all the other reviews and videos I’ve seen say the colors are well balanced.
> 
> I’m annoyed because I got DHL shipping notifications, but nobody has picked it up yet, so I’m likely looking at mid next week to get my T1. Tricky little nonsense the vendor Quanzhou Ruichi Technology did to avoid a 10% discount if not shipped by Jan 8th. Not super impressed with that…..


Fair points mate, I guess once one of you receives a T1 unit, then we are gonna be able to have a better feeling of its real potential.

And if a Game Mode pops up, that could skew me towards the T1


----------



## Adamgoodapp

I put my order in, should be here within 6-8days.


----------



## eezrider

I ordered one also from Ruichi, who indicated they'd send it by the end of this week - hopefully that pans out. Wupro responded after I had ordered and claimed they had units in stock.

On the issue of tint, I was able to correct the tint present on my Bomaker Polaris using a grayscale chart (from Disney WOW disk) - once I had reset the color gain settings to 50 and 128 it actually had a green tint, not red. If there is a tint on the T1 (not obvious that it does from the pictures here) I expect it can be similarly corrected. It could be that manufacturers allow a slight tint to let them claim higher max brightness - correcting the color often involves dimming one or two colors, so dimming the image overall slightly.


----------



## Brajesh

tsubasa83 said:


> it may be obvious, but I've never seen a UST projector installed upside-down to the ceiling (say 80cm by the projected wall)
> 
> is there a reason why not to do it?
> 
> that would sort out the positioning in the middle of the carpet (too far from the wall cabinet) and in the way of the center channel but still produce a 120-150' image


Here's someone who did it with their Chroma. Not sure it's worth the trouble...


----------



## DeanM3

That looks way worse than just having one of these small projectors in front on a small table.


----------



## Brajesh

I assume he's going to cover up the ceiling and just leave a small cutout open for the lens, but still physically accessing the projector would be a pain, trying to clean it (and off keep dust, cobwebs up there possibly), and potentially ventilation issues up there.


----------



## DeanM3

I don't think he can cover up much more than that. That looks pretty close to the light path from the lens to the screen.


----------



## zoomx2

Defeat the purpose of UST.


----------



## GiantBubbleGuy

zoomx2 said:


> Defeat the purpose of UST.


Not necessarily. Perhaps they have small children or rambunctious pets and don't want to worry about the projector getting knocked out of place, which I understand is tedious to deal with as getting the alignment perfect is time consuming. I don't have the room for a standard projector and the light path would intersect my living room. This setup with an UST projector would work great for me. Yeah, it's more complicated than placing it on a table, but it won't ever get knocked out of alignment.


----------



## jakechoy

GiantBubbleGuy said:


> Not necessarily. Perhaps they have small children or rambunctious pets and don't want to worry about the projector getting knocked out of place, which I understand is tedious to deal with as getting the alignment perfect is time consuming. I don't have the room for a standard projector and the light path would intersect my living room. This setup with an UST projector would work great for me. Yeah, it's more complicated than placing it on a table, but it won't ever get knocked out of alignment.


as pointed out earlier..the T1 is alot heavier than the C2. Ceiling mounting might be challenging.


----------



## jakechoy

lattiboy said:


> I think your C2 list is correct, but we just have to wait until somebody actually gets and uses a T1, not just in a demo situation. Also, very likely a firmware drops quickly as happened with the C2 which could resolve most of those issues.
> 
> I still think Gregory’s pictures are nonsense as that’s exactly how most tri lasers look if you don’t color correct the photos and all the other reviews and videos I’ve seen say the colors are well balanced.
> 
> I’m annoyed because I got DHL shipping notifications, but nobody has picked it up yet, so I’m likely looking at mid next week to get my T1. Tricky little nonsense the vendor Quanzhou Ruichi Technology did to avoid a 10% discount if not shipped by Jan 8th. Not super impressed with that…..


I suspect the gaming mode is there. I just don't know how to read the chinese text for it when I tested it 😅


----------



## ufokillerz

Ordered a T1 from chris chen that someone pointed out earlier in the thread too. I just got a vava chroma, but the t1 sold me on some of the features.


----------



## lattiboy

jakechoy said:


> I suspect the gaming mode is there. I just don't know how to read the chinese text for it when I tested it 😅


Google translate app has a ”camera mode” which does real time translation. It’s how I figured out the C2 menu to change it to English. Works great! Give it a try and see if you can find game mode.


----------



## devikanths

Hi All,
I ordered from Wupro. (Ruichi seems to have increased their price and quotes 2350 usd, wupro met the same). I was just inclined as wupro said they are "official" distributor. Also I have ordered a 120 inch alr screen from them They said the warehouse is in USA and the price is 590 USD all inclusive. Just wanted to leave it here for anyone's reference.


----------



## indieke2

I think anyway, we will have too wait for real tests. I think the biggest factor is that we have to wait for the effect of 3 lasers.

IF they not have to much problems, color bleeding;red accentuation, it be the projector to go, as it handels as well HDR 10 plus, as Dolby vision. Then for REC 2020, it is to be seen if that is an argument not to choose the Xiaomi C2.

If the 3 lasers would not be convincing, when the overal PQ, there is no gap, that HDR and DV, is quite the same, the XIAOMI could be a less bothersome machine. It is not about the difference in price, it is to see if the 3 laser system, could not be a source of more trouble. I have no projector now, as I sold the Fengmi C2, but I wait till all of this is clear.


----------



## ngcoolman

First post in this thread. I got my T1 few days ago after reading this thread. Would like to share my initial thoughts. At the beginning, I considered the Epson LS500 but the throw distance is too long for my setting. Then I saw people discussing Xiaomi C2 and Fengmi T1. I finally went for the T1 together with the Fengmi F2 100 inches soft fresnel screen bundle.

So far, I am very impressed with the image quality. The image is very sharp and color is very vibrant. What surprise me most is the B&W sound system. I have a samsung Q60T soundbar for my previous setup but it is obvious to me the built-in B&W sound system is few tiers above the samsung soundbar in terms of sound quality. However, a drawback is that the system has basically no bass and I don't think there is a way you can add a subwoofer to work together with the built-in speakers.

In terms of color accuracy, I don't have any tools to calibrate the projector and can only express my subjective opinion. The projectors come with 7 default image parameters mode: sports, child, standard, movie, showy, display and game. These 7 modes are fixed and cannot be fine tuned. This is unfortunate as I want to game on game mode but find the color temperature too cold on that mode. The only way you can fine tune the image parameters is from custom mode where you have the typical parameters to play with such as the brightness, contrast, saturation, sharpness, tone, color temperature and dynamic contrast. My final setting is custom with all parameters set to default except setting sharpness to 0, color temperature to warm and turn off dynamic contrast.

Apart from image parameters settings, you also have 4 brightness mode to choose from: view, office, night and silent. The first two are brighter modes that are viewable even with ambient light, the last two are significantly darker that should only be used when there is no ambient light. Comparing view and office modes, the latter is brighter but will make the color temperature cooler. In the two darker brightness modes, silent mode color is cooler than night mode with similar brightness. 

The project is able to detect DV content without problem. When viewing with DV content, you no longer have option to change the image parameters. But you are still able to access the 4 brightness mode. Also, there is an additional menu item called dolby vision where you can choose from bright or dark. Honestly, I struggle to understand the meaning of bright or dark. I notice that dark actually increase the brightness of the shadow details. To me, the effect is similar to turning dynamic contrast on (bright) and off (dark). You can see the difference in the following images with different combinations. (Note that the photos were taken from my smartphone which don't 100% resemble what I saw in person but it was close enough)

DV (Brightness = view, Dolby Vision = Bright)









DV (Brightness = view, Dolby Vision = Dark)









DV (Brightness = office, Dolby Vision = Bright)









DV(Brightness = Office, Dolby Vision = Dark)









Also, yesterday, there was a post claiming a red tint on the DV glassblow demo video which I can reproduce. However, if I view the same video in HDR on youtube, I don't see the same problem. Maybe this is a software issue that can be fixed in the future?

DV (Brightness = View mode, Dolby Vision = Bright mode)









Youtube 4K HDR on XBX (Brightness = View mode, Image Parameters = Custom, Warm, Dynamic Contrast Off)


----------



## GaeIta80

jakechoy said:


> I suspect the gaming mode is there. I just don't know how to read the chinese text for it when I tested it 😅


Yes mate, Google translate menus with camera...it might pop up somewhere 🤗


----------



## rjyap

Dolby Vision set to dark seems to be more natural on skin tone and less reddish. As usual, it doesn't allow user to change the parameters for preset mode which might be an issue especially for game mode. Anyway, just ordered T1 from taobao website.


----------



## indieke2

Your screens look very reddish. But I not know that video.


----------



## GaeIta80

ngcoolman said:


> First post in this thread. I got my T1 few days ago after reading this thread. Would like to share my initial thoughts. At the beginning, I considered the Epson LS500 but the throw distance is too long for my setting. Then I saw people discussing Xiaomi C2 and Fengmi T1. I finally went for the T1 together with the Fengmi F2 100 inches soft fresnel screen bundle.
> 
> So far, I am very impressed with the image quality. The image is very sharp and color is very vibrant. What surprise me most is the B&W sound system. I have a samsung Q60T soundbar for my previous setup but it is obvious to me the built-in B&W sound system is few tiers above the samsung soundbar in terms of sound quality. However, a drawback is that the system has basically no bass and I don't think there is a way you can add a subwoofer to work together with the built-in speakers.
> 
> In terms of color accuracy, I don't have any tools to calibrate the projector and can only express my subjective opinion. The projectors come with 7 default image parameters mode: sports, child, standard, movie, showy, display and game. These 7 modes are fixed and cannot be fine tuned. This is unfortunate as I want to game on game mode but find the color temperature too cold on that mode. The only way you can fine tune the image parameters is from custom mode where you have the typical parameters to play with such as the brightness, contrast, saturation, sharpness, tone, color temperature and dynamic contrast. My final setting is custom with all parameters set to default except setting sharpness to 0, color temperature to warm and turn off dynamic contrast.
> 
> Apart from image parameters settings, you also have 4 brightness mode to choose from: view, office, night and silent. The first two are brighter modes that are viewable even with ambient light, the last two are significantly darker that should only be used when there is no ambient light. Comparing view and office modes, the latter is brighter but will make the color temperature cooler. In the two darker brightness modes, silent mode color is cooler than night mode with similar brightness.
> 
> The project is able to detect DV content without problem. When viewing with DV content, you no longer have option to change the image parameters. But you are still able to access the 4 brightness mode. Also, there is an additional menu item called dolby vision where you can choose from bright or dark. Honestly, I struggle to understand the meaning of bright or dark. I notice that dark actually increase the brightness of the shadow details. To me, the effect is similar to turning dynamic contrast on (bright) and off (dark). You can see the difference in the following images with different combinations. (Note that the photos were taken from my smartphone which don't 100% resemble what I saw in person but it was close enough)
> 
> DV (Brightness = view, Dolby Vision = Bright)
> View attachment 3222045
> 
> 
> DV (Brightness = view, Dolby Vision = Dark)
> View attachment 3222047
> 
> 
> DV (Brightness = office, Dolby Vision = Bright)
> View attachment 3222048
> 
> 
> DV(Brightness = Office, Dolby Vision = Dark)
> View attachment 3222049
> 
> 
> Also, yesterday, there was a post claiming a red tint on the DV glassblow demo video which I can reproduce. However, if I view the same video in HDR on youtube, I don't see the same problem. Maybe this is a software issue that can be fixed in the future?
> 
> DV (Brightness = View mode, Dolby Vision = Bright mode)
> View attachment 3222031
> 
> 
> Youtube 4K HDR on XBX (Brightness = View mode, Image Parameters = Custom, Warm, Dynamic Contrast Off)
> View attachment 3222030


Hey mate, thanks do much for sharing your impressions and info, very appreciated!

Thanks for confirming a Game Mode (pity cannot be adjusted), does it look like having a low input lag in your experience?

Also, yes Dolby Vision in Dark modes seem the most accurate one, less saturated and probably only choice compared to the others.

Could you share any video footage of DV vs HDR and maybe gaming? Just asking since pics might look too oversaturated due to phones camera.

Cheers!


----------



## humax

ngcoolman said:


> So far, I am very impressed with the image quality. The image is very sharp and color is very vibrant. What surprise me most is the B&W sound system. I have a samsung Q60T soundbar for my previous setup but it is obvious to me the built-in B&W sound system is few tiers above the samsung soundbar in terms of sound quality. However, a drawback is that the system has basically no bass and I don't think there is a way you can add a subwoofer to work together with the built-in speakers.



So, what is your verdict? Is the projector actually worth the hype as the first tri-laser DV unit? Is there any greyness in the blacks due to higher brightness? As for the SW output, perhaps an hdmi audio extractor could help? I guess, it will also have to be at least an hdmi 2.0b model? Thank you very much for your input!

P.S. Something like that, perhaps? 

SHARC eARC Audio Converter (thenaudio.com)


----------



## abaintor

Hi, here is a snapshot of the same picture taken with my iphone on a dolby vision Oled panel, in dolby vision mode.
Oled panels don't support full BT2020 coverage though unlike the T1, but it indicates that the tint is too reddish even in HDR10 mode. It is too bad that colors cannot be adjusted in dolby vision mode to get a better color balance.
Maybe you should try cold mode instead of warm, and stick to Dolby vision = dark (the other is much too reddish)
Thank you anyway for the screenshots and feedback

PICTURE *NOT *FROM T1 (taken from Oled panel to compare) :


----------



## DeanM3

I’ve been seeing all kinds of weirdness in photos taken of tri laser projectors. Could this be because the shutter of the camera is out of phase with the pulsing of the three individual lasers? Could be imperceptible to the human eye but shows up when a fast shutter speed only captures part of the projector “phase”. Thoughts ?


----------



## GaeIta80

DeanM3 said:


> I’ve been seeing all kinds of weirdness in photos taken of tri laser projectors. Could this be because the shutter of the camera is out of phase with the pulsing of the three individual lasers? Could be imperceptible to the human eye but shows up when a fast shutter speed only captures part of the projector “phase”. Thoughts ?


I was wondering the same thing, how is it possible that they look stunning/amazing in real life and then awfully saturated/too red or green when captured on a pic?


----------



## jakechoy

DeanM3 said:


> I’ve been seeing all kinds of weirdness in photos taken of tri laser projectors. Could this be because the shutter of the camera is out of phase with the pulsing of the three individual lasers? Could be imperceptible to the human eye but shows up when a fast shutter speed only captures part of the projector “phase”. Thoughts ?


I used an iphone 11 and xiaomi 108MP phone and the results are both different...with my 108MP it shows the rainbows. iphone seems ok but saturated.


----------



## jakechoy

ngcoolman said:


> Also, yesterday, there was a post claiming a red tint on the DV glassblow demo video which I can reproduce. However, if I view the same video in HDR on youtube, I don't see the same problem. Maybe this is a software issue that can be fixed in the future?



Great to hear similar opinion on the audio...its really good..just a bummer on the bass.

As for youtube, how are u playing it back? My suspicion is the DV decoding. I am using Kodi. NVIDIA Youtube does not do DV.


----------



## ngcoolman

DeanM3 said:


> I’ve been seeing all kinds of weirdness in photos taken of tri laser projectors. Could this be because the shutter of the camera is out of phase with the pulsing of the three individual lasers? Could be imperceptible to the human eye but shows up when a fast shutter speed only captures part of the projector “phase”. Thoughts ?


I believe this is what happened. The pictures I post cannot justify what I actually saw, the color is much more consistent in real life.


----------



## ngcoolman

jakechoy said:


> Great to hear similar opinion on the audio...its really good..just a bummer on the bass.
> 
> As for youtube, how are u playing it back? My suspicion is the DV decoding. I am using Kodi. NVIDIA Youtube does not do DV.


I downloaded the DV mp4 from dolby website and played it using the projector's built-in video player. I found the HDR version on youtube and played it using XSX.


----------



## jakechoy

ngcoolman said:


> I downloaded the DV mp4 from dolby website and played it using the projector's built-in video player. I found the HDR version on youtube and played it using XSX.


oh, there's a MP4 version? let me go find it. the projector s/w won't play the MKV i downloaded.


----------



## ngcoolman

GaeIta80 said:


> Hey mate, thanks do much for sharing your impressions and info, very appreciated!
> 
> Thanks for confirming a Game Mode (pity cannot be adjusted), does it look like having a low input lag in your experience?
> 
> Also, yes Dolby Vision in Dark modes seem the most accurate one, less saturated and probably only choice compared to the others.
> 
> Could you share any video footage of DV vs HDR and maybe gaming? Just asking since pics might look too oversaturated due to phones camera.
> 
> Cheers!


I couldn't tell whether the game mode has low input lag because I found gaming on custom mode acceptable. 

I tried to take some videos but their color accuracy are even worse than still pictures which I don't think it will be meaningful to share.


----------



## ngcoolman

jakechoy said:


> oh, there's a MP4 version? let me go find it. the projector s/w won't play the MKV i downloaded.


I downloaded the mp4 from the following website.






Dolby Vision streams | Dolby Developer







developer.dolby.com


----------



## ngcoolman

humax said:


> So, what is your verdict? Is the projector actually worth the hype as the first tri-laser DV unit? Is there any greyness in the blacks due to higher brightness? As for the SW output, perhaps an hdmi audio extractor could help? I guess, it will also have to be at least an hdmi 2.0b model? Thank you very much for your input!
> 
> P.S. Something like that, perhaps?
> 
> SHARC eARC Audio Converter (thenaudio.com)


It is a keeper to me although I have no experience with other Xiaomi C2 or other USTs. The black level looks good to me, it doesn't go as dark as my LG OLED but better than my Sony 55x9000f (which I believe is equivalent to 55x900f in the US). Thank you for your suggestion on the audio extractor. But I am confused how it may help my problem of wanting to use the built-in speaker with an external subwoofer. My understanding is that if i choose audio output to hdmi earc, the projector will stop outputting sound from the built-in speakers. Finally, the menu said the output can be set to hdmi 1.4/2.0/2.1/auto. But i can't tell whether it is 2.0b or actual 2.1. All I know is the projector will not be able to play game at 4k120Hz even setting the hdmi output to 2.1, interestingly, it claims it can do 1080p at 120fps which I am not sure the projector actually have 120Hz refresh rate.


----------



## abaintor

I don't know about Fengmi internal player, but if you have nvidia shield (2019) or latest Fire TV max, you can get dolby vision support on mp4/mkv with a special version of kodi : see Maven's Kodi-Builds für Android - Kodinerds.net - Deutschsprachiges Forum zum Kodi Entertainment Center


----------



## humax

ngcoolman said:


> But I am confused how it may help my problem of wanting to use the built-in speaker with an external subwoofer. My understanding is that if i choose audio output to hdmi earc, the projector will stop outputting sound from the built-in speakers



Thank you again for your input. I have not used an audio extractor before, but does it not act as a buffer to the projector's hdmi input leaving the signal intact and simultaneously allowing you to use an external sound source? Can the LR line output of the extractor be connected to a SW's input leaving hdmi unaltered and without any cutting of the sound? It is not clear to me, so I am just asking.


----------



## DeanM3

@ngcoolman The Xiaomi laser projectors have a setting under the "Devices and Bluetooth" Menu that allow for the use of the 3.5mm jack for subwoofer output. However I'm not sure if this is limited to Xiaomi branded subwoofers as I couldn't get it to work on my original 1080p Laser TV. Check your menus and see if you can find the subwoofer setting under the "Devices and Bluetooth" menu.


----------



## Brajesh

If anyone needs additional DV test clips, I maintain this wiki page for Kodi. Suggest trying a Shield TV w/the build @abaintor linked to above, a Zidoo Z9X (or a similar Dune player), or Roku w/DV as picture can vary some between players vs. the projector's built-in Android media player.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

If your willing to take things into your own hands, something like this should let you add a line out for a sub: Russound - ADP-1.2 Speaker to Line-Level Adapter

Running in line with what ever speaker connection has the bass frequencies. Then use the subs x-over to get rid of any unwanted higher frequencies.


----------



## indieke2

Brajesh said:


> If anyone needs additional DV test clips, I maintain this wiki page for Kodi. Suggest trying a Shield TV w/the build @abaintor linked to above, a Zidoo Z9X (or a similar Dune player), or Roku w/DV as picture can vary some between players vs. the projector's built-in Android media player.


I have a Zidoo Z9S, what is the difference with Z9X? Can it play Dolby vision too?


----------



## Brajesh

Z9X is a significant upgrade to Z9S, which I also owned, along with X9S before that. Z9X supports DV and HDR10+, and probably the best part is that it has Dolby's VS engine, which can apply DV to any non-DV videos (standard HDR, SDR, HD, SD). So, you get quasi-DV dynamic tone mapping for everything. Here's the AVR thread for it, and reach out to resident expert @markswift2003 with any questions. He also maintains a helpful suggested settings post/thread on Zidoo's forum.


----------



## eezrider

@ngcoolman thanks for your early comments, very useful. You mention various image adjustment menu options, which seem like they are mostly programmed profiles. Did you find some kind of calibration menu, with individual RGB gain settings and color tint controls for yellow, cyan, etc. Correcting a tint will need access to such settings. Without such options the projector would be much less enticing. I assumed that such config options would be available when I ordered mine... Question to those with the Xiaomi C2, does it have such fine level calibration?


----------



## GaeIta80

Hey guys, brand new pics and video here:








Quick Review - Some Reality Photos of T1


Secure your new beamer here, now ready in stock!




nothingbutlabel.com





And T1 seems shining in terms of colours and sharpness/contrast (photos not in video though). Confusing 😐


----------



## Brajesh

Those screenshots look gorgeous!


----------



## lattiboy

eezrider said:


> @ngcoolman thanks for your early comments, very useful. You mention various image adjustment menu options, which seem like they are mostly programmed profiles. Did you find some kind of calibration menu, with individual RGB gain settings and color tint controls for yellow, cyan, etc. Correcting a tint will need access to such settings. Without such options the projector would be much less enticing. I assumed that such config options would be available when I ordered mine... Question to those with the Xiaomi C2, does it have such fine level calibration?


It has a “custom color” menu option which is just color balance, but no WB or tint options.


----------



## humax

Judging by the bars in the screenshots and the short clip, the blacks seem a bit brighter than the C2, so this might measure a bit less in contrast due to higher brightness. We will see what Gregory says. He has already ordered his own unit and is asking for a loaner, so as to get the review out ASAP.


----------



## Kev1000000

In terms of speckle, how good is this "speckle reduction" technology they have? How does it compare to the LSP9T or Hisense L9G?


----------



## ACE844

A basic unboxing video: Fengmi T1 4K Laser Projector TV laser tv Fengmi T1/Formovie T1 2800ansi - YouTube


----------



## aerodynamics

eezrider said:


> @ngcoolman thanks for your early comments, very useful. You mention various image adjustment menu options, which seem like they are mostly programmed profiles. Did you find some kind of calibration menu, with individual RGB gain settings and color tint controls for yellow, cyan, etc. Correcting a tint will need access to such settings. Without such options the projector would be much less enticing. I assumed that such config options would be available when I ordered mine... Question to those with the Xiaomi C2, does it have such fine level calibration?


The Chinese USTs never have a CMS which is one of their shortcomings. The C2 addressed input lag. Now if they included a proper CMS, it would be a real winner, considering all this talk about red push. I think the problem is that it requires a developer who knows what they're doing so that tweaking the adjustments don't make the picture worse.


----------



## Tanizhq

Are firmware updates easy to get for these Chinese USTs? Thinking of getting one now, but not sure if its worth waiting for a firmware update from the factory first?


----------



## eezrider

What about the Projectivy tools? @spocky12, do you anticipate that your tools will allow control over the lower-level color/tint settings for the T1 (as I recall you're planning to try to support the T1)?


----------



## Brajesh

Tanizhq said:


> Are firmware updates easy to get for these Chinese USTs? Thinking of getting one now, but not sure if its worth waiting for a firmware update from the factory first?


Unfortunately, firmware updates have been rare at least from my experience on previous UST's. That's one unfortunate thing with Chinese manufacturers is they're always on to the next product, and it happens much quicker than what we see with U.S./European companies. Basically, I wouldn't hold my breath and make a decision based on what the product can (or can't) do now. Hope we see a change in their support model ahead.


----------



## ngcoolman

DeanM3 said:


> @ngcoolman The Xiaomi laser projectors have a setting under the "Devices and Bluetooth" Menu that allow for the use of the 3.5mm jack for subwoofer output. However I'm not sure if this is limited to Xiaomi branded subwoofers as I couldn't get it to work on my original 1080p Laser TV. Check your menus and see if you can find the subwoofer setting under the "Devices and Bluetooth" menu.



Thank you for the info. I found something similar in the menu. But as you said, it only supports Fengmi's own proprietary wireless 2.1 systems to expand the whole system to 5.1.


----------



## jakechoy

Kev1000000 said:


> In terms of speckle, how good is this "speckle reduction" technology they have? How does it compare to the LSP9T or Hisense L9G?


Have not seen the LSP9t or L9G; but compared to U2...T1's despeckle works and images look fantastically sharp. There was no sign of any speckle on the T1.


----------



## DeanM3

ngcoolman said:


> Thank you for the info. I found something similar in the menu. But as you said, it only supports Fengmi's own proprietary wireless 2.1 systems to expand the whole system to 5.1.


When my unit arrives I’m going to try to figure out how to trick it into thinking their proprietary speaker is hooked up. It’s simply connecting via 3.5mm jack, so no digital exchange is going on. I’ll hook up an oscilloscope and see if I can see what’s going on.


----------



## indieke2

Found the new screens still reddish. We have to wait.


----------



## Tanizhq

Brajesh said:


> Unfortunately, firmware updates have been rare at least from my experience on previous UST's. That's one unfortunate thing with Chinese manufacturers is they're always on to the next product, and it happens much quicker than what we see with U.S./European companies. Basically, I wouldn't hold my breath and make a decision based on what the product can (or can't) do now. Hope we see a change in their support model ahead.


Yes but IF they do have a new firmware available which fixes the sub menus for example, would you be able to update it? Or would it only be available on projectors bought after that time?


----------



## abaintor

Tanizhq said:


> Yes but IF they do have a new firmware available which fixes the sub menus for example, would you be able to update it? Or would it only be available on projectors bought after that time?


Firmware updates are available from the projector system menu, and to all the users


----------



## tahiri.hicham.2006

Hi guys, thanks for the discussion on this really interesting device.
Was wondering which screen is recommanded with this projector, currently having this one for my current projector, not sure how it will work with this device





Écran Motorisée Pour Cinéma Alr,Pour Le Bureau,Avec Obsidienne,135 Pouces,Collection 0.8 - Buy Motorized Projection Screen,Drop Down Screen,Ceiling Screen Product on Alibaba.com


Écran Motorisée Pour Cinéma Alr,Pour Le Bureau,Avec Obsidienne,135 Pouces,Collection 0.8 - Buy Motorized Projection Screen,Drop Down Screen,Ceiling Screen Product on Alibaba.com



french.alibaba.com




Regards
Hicham


----------



## GaeIta80

DeanM3 said:


> When my unit arrives I’m going to try to figure out how to trick it into thinking their proprietary speaker is hooked up. It’s simply connecting via 3.5mm jack, so no digital exchange is going on. I’ll hook up an oscilloscope and see if I can see what’s going on.





tahiri.hicham.2006 said:


> Hi guys, thanks for the discussion on this really interesting device.
> Was wondering which screen is recommanded with this projector, currently having this one for my current projector, not sure how it will work with this device
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Écran Motorisée Pour Cinéma Alr,Pour Le Bureau,Avec Obsidienne,135 Pouces,Collection 0.8 - Buy Motorized Projection Screen,Drop Down Screen,Ceiling Screen Product on Alibaba.com
> 
> 
> Écran Motorisée Pour Cinéma Alr,Pour Le Bureau,Avec Obsidienne,135 Pouces,Collection 0.8 - Buy Motorized Projection Screen,Drop Down Screen,Ceiling Screen Product on Alibaba.com
> 
> 
> 
> french.alibaba.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards
> Hicham


Hi Hicham, you will need a UST ALR screen like a Vividstorm 100/120" floor rising or drop down tensioned...the one you got is good for short/long throw projectors but not for UST ones since different technology/fabric to absorb and reflect the light


----------



## tahiri.hicham.2006

GaeIta80 said:


> Hi Hicham, you will need a UST ALR screen like a Vividstorm 100/120" floor rising or drop down tensioned...the one you got is good for short/long throw projectors but not for UST ones since different technology/fabric to absorb and reflect the light


Thanks a lot Gaelta, it's a shame I will have to pay for a new one :/


----------



## DeanM3

My T1 just cleared export and is on the way to the US (Fedex). Curious about the others here where their packages were delayed with DHL.


----------



## tahiri.hicham.2006

GaeIta80 said:


> Hi Hicham, you will need a UST ALR screen like a Vividstorm 100/120" floor rising or drop down tensioned...the one you got is good for short/long throw projectors but not for UST ones since different technology/fabric to absorb and reflect the light


@Gaelta80 Would it be possible to have an acoustically transparent screen for this projector? 
Got some speakers there...


----------



## shanedowley

I’ve had a number of the Xiaomi and Fengmi UST projectors over the years (currently w the Fengmi C2 and considering the T1) paired with ALR screens from XY Screens (PET Crystal material) and found them to be excellent. XY Screens sell direct from China. I’ve always found them super helpful and well priced. they’re happy to do custom builds - I recently ordered a 2:35:1 ratio screen of a specific size to fit my space. They do AT screen material too although not sure if it’s ALR material.


----------



## humax

Xiaomi Fengmi Wemax Subwoofer S1 80W stereo surround sound 2K 4K Laser projector TV home theater supporting Bass speakers - AliExpress Consumer Electronics

It seems there is a generic SW model suitable for these USTs. I am not sure, however, it will work like a breeze with the T1. Also the woofer driver does not seem large enough. I think I 'll just try the audio extractor thing, when the time comes.


----------



## Brajesh

On ALR screen, anyone try Carl's Place material? Any good for these UST's? Considering it to build my own 150" screen; would be far more of a reasonable price vs. pre-built.

Edit: Never mind, just chatted w/them. Not appropriate for UST's...


> Hello, thank you for reaching out to Carl's Place. Our ALR screen has a gain of ~1.5.
> 
> For a UST Projector we typically recommend our FlexiGray or FlexiWhite both of which have a gain of 0.9.


----------



## humax

Brajesh said:


> On ALR screen, anyone try Carl's Place material? Any good for these UST's? Considering it to build my own 150" screen; would be far more of a reasonable price vs. pre-built.


I have been trying to find a 150" ALR from China at a reasonable price for the past month. They are disproportionally expensive in comparison to the 120" versions. I finally gave up and went with the 120" VAVA screen. Not ideal, but it will have to do for now.


----------



## lattiboy

humax said:


> Xiaomi Fengmi Wemax Subwoofer S1 80W stereo surround sound 2K 4K Laser projector TV home theater supporting Bass speakers - AliExpress Consumer Electronics
> 
> It seems there is a generic SW model suitable for these USTs. I am not sure, however, it will work like a breeze with the T1. Also the woofer driver does not seem large enough. I think I 'll just try the audio extractor thing, when the time comes.


Ive got a 3.5mm to RCA adapter. Going to hook up my subwoofer tonight to the Xaomi Cinema 3.5 and test this out. The Cinema 2 speakers are pretty good, but it seems the T1 are amazing. I would assume they have identical audio setups


----------



## DeanM3

lattiboy said:


> Ive got a 3.5mm to RCA adapter. Going to hook up my subwoofer tonight to the Xaomi Cinema 3.5 and test this out. The Cinema 2 speakers are pretty good, but it seems the T1 are amazing. I would assume they have identical audio setups


Do you mean 3.5mm from the projector audio output directly to the subwoofer via RCA?

If so, this likely won't work. I have the Xiaomi Laser TV 1080p, and the 3.5mm output is proprietary in that it has some kind of communication with the Xiaomi Wemax subwoofer. That sub does not have any volume adjustments, and hence allows the projector to scale / adjust the volume level. When you try to enable a subwoofer in the devices menu, it shows a diagram of adding a Xiaomi sub via the 3.5mm and will not continue to the next screen until it discovers the sub via some 2 way 3.5mm connection.

If you simply switch the audio output to 3.5mm, it will disable the onboard speakers.

Please test this out on your Cinema 2 and let us know the results. It would be excellent if they fixed this in newer models.


----------



## lattiboy

DeanM3 said:


> Do you mean 3.5mm from the projector audio output directly to the subwoofer via RCA?


Yes, that’s how their subwoofer is connected according to the Alibaba listing posted on the last page.


----------



## lattiboy

DeanM3 said:


> Do you mean 3.5mm from the projector audio output directly to the subwoofer via RCA?
> 
> If so, this likely won't work. I have the Xiaomi Laser TV 1080p, and the 3.5mm output is proprietary in that it has some kind of communication with the Xiaomi Wemax subwoofer. That sub does not have any volume adjustments, and hence allows the projector to scale / adjust the volume level. When you try to enable a subwoofer in the devices menu, it shows a diagram of adding a Xiaomi sub via the 3.5mm and will not continue to the next screen until it discovers the sub via some 2 way 3.5mm connection.
> 
> If you simply switch the audio output to 3.5mm, it will disable the onboard speakers.
> 
> Please test this out on your Cinema 2 and let us know the results. It would be excellent if they fixed this in newer models.


Ah, good to know. I’ll find out tonight for sure, but if there is a handshake and DSP it probably won’t work.

I’m fine buying their little proprietary sub. I think people would be shocked at how powerful the soundbar subs from LG and Samsung are for their size. I have the LG wireless sub for my SN11RG and it produces a very decent amount of bass considering it weighs 1/3 my MK stereo subwoofer.


----------



## DeanM3

lattiboy said:


> Ah, good to know. I’ll find out tonight for sure, but if there is a handshake and DSP it probably won’t work.
> 
> I’m fine buying their little proprietary sub. I think people would be shocked at how powerful the soundbar subs from LG and Samsung are for their size. I have the LG wireless sub for my SN11RG and it produces a very decent amount of bass considering it weighs 1/3 my MK stereo subwoofer.


True but I have a B&W PV1 sub that should pair nicely with the B&W speakers in the T1. It even fits perfectly under the table for the projector. I might end up buying the Wemax S1 just to rip out the preamp board inside and use it to enable my PV1.


----------



## Kris404

DeanM3 said:


> Do you mean 3.5mm from the projector audio output directly to the subwoofer via RCA?
> 
> If so, this likely won't work. I have the Xiaomi Laser TV 1080p, and the 3.5mm output is proprietary in that it has some kind of communication with the Xiaomi Wemax subwoofer. That sub does not have any volume adjustments, and hence allows the projector to scale / adjust the volume level. When you try to enable a subwoofer in the devices menu, it shows a diagram of adding a Xiaomi sub via the 3.5mm and will not continue to the next screen until it discovers the sub via some 2 way 3.5mm connection.
> 
> If you simply switch the audio output to 3.5mm, it will disable the onboard speakers.
> 
> Please test this out on your Cinema 2 and let us know the results. It would be excellent if they fixed this in newer models.


Maybe it needs a 3.5mm TRRS (4 contacts) type audio jack instead of a TRS (3 contacts) type?


----------



## whiskthecat

Can anyone comment on if it emits high-pitched noise/whine? I just had to return a Wemax Nova because the thing made my ears bleed. Additionally, I would like to know how it performs in regard to color banding. The Wemax Nova was unplayable on PS5 in HDR because any time there was a gradient it fully botched it.


----------



## DeanM3

Kris404 said:


> Maybe it needs a 3.5mm TRRS (4 contacts) type audio jack instead of a TRS (3 contacts) type?
> 
> 
> View attachment 3222757
> View attachment 3222758



Just tried one of these. No difference, can’t get past this screen.


----------



## DeanM3




----------



## jakechoy

whiskthecat said:


> Can anyone comment on if it emits high-pitched noise/whine? I just had to return a Wemax Nova because the thing made my ears bleed. Additionally, I would like to know how it performs in regard to color banding. The Wemax Nova was unplayable on PS5 in HDR because any time there was a gradient it fully botched it.


nope. The T1 and C2 are very quiet - u can't hear them or their fans running. Much quieter than my old S1 (Which alot of folks find noisy).


----------



## ngcoolman

jakechoy said:


> nope. The T1 and C2 are very quiet - u can't hear them or their fans running. Much quieter than my old S1 (Which alot of folks find noisy).


I concur. T1 is very quiet that its brightest "office mode" is as silent as its dimmest "silent mode" to me.


----------



## whiskthecat

ngcoolman said:


> I concur. T1 is very quiet that its brightest "office mode" is as silent as its dimmest "silent mode" to me.


Nice, good to hear. Just to clarify though I don't think my problem was with the fans but something else making a 6kHz whistling frequency. If you turned your head just right it would cancel out but I'd prefer to not need a neck brace to watch my projector, lol.

Can someone try a PS5 in HDR if possible? I know they are still hard to come by. A good torture test is the included "Astro's Playroom" game, go to the "SSD Speedway" level and look at the clouds.

Besides the PS5 here are some links to a few color banding test patterns to check for issues.
The Wemax fails both of them spectacularly while my ancient w1070 does a respectable job.

Grayscale_10b
Rotating_Gradients

One more thing, does anyone have the input voltage range for this thing? One of the reasons I went with the Wemax is it would run off 120v without needing a step up transformer.


----------



## DeanM3

Happy to try my ps5 when the T1 arrives next week.


----------



## lattiboy

whiskthecat said:


> Nice, good to hear. Just to clarify though I don't think my problem was with the fans but something else making a 6kHz whistling frequency. If you turned your head just right it would cancel out but I'd prefer to not need a neck brace to watch my projector, lol.
> 
> Can someone try a PS5 in HDR if possible? I know they are still hard to come by. A good torture test is the included "Astro's Playroom" game, go to the "SSD Speedway" level and look at the clouds.
> 
> Besides the PS5 here are some links to a few color banding test patterns to check for issues. The Wemax fails both of them spectacularly while my ancient w1070 does a respectable job despite being 8 bit.
> 
> Grayscale_10b
> Rotating_Gradients
> 
> One more thing, does anyone have the input voltage range for this thing? One of the reasons I went with the Wemax is it would run off 120v without needing a step up transformer.


It’s the exact issue I had with my LG HU810P, which I had to return because of it. High frequency buzz that gives you headaches.

The C2 is incredibly quiet and has zero whine, so hopefully the T1 is the same as they clearly share a lot of parts.

Also, voltage is 110-220. I’m in the Us and didn’t need any adapter. I did have to grab one of these though as it’s not a standard 3-prong but a new slim version:

StarTech.com 6ft Standard Laptop Power Cord (NEMA 5-15P to IEC 320 C5) - 3 Prong Replacement Notebook Power Cable - 125V, 13A, 18AWG (PXT101NB3S) , Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FHQTGW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_0A4A79931PYCFDKE5HJC

This is all for the C2, but they’re almost identical machines outside the laser assembly. Same chassis, UI, etc


----------



## whiskthecat

lattiboy said:


> It’s the exact issue I had with my LG HU810P, which I had to return because of it. High frequency buzz that gives you headaches.
> 
> This is all for the C2, but they’re almost identical machines outside the laser assembly. Same chassis, UI, etc


Cool, the C2 is my 2nd option if the reviews don't turn out good for the T1. There is definitely some conflicting info out there about the input voltage.
I'm just hesitant since none of these are gonna have the option of guaranteed no questions asked amazon returns and the Wemax Nova was such a dud.

BTW, How is the focus uniformity on that C2? On the Wemax Nova the upper left and right corners couldn't get into focus and once you found the best balance there were focused and unfocused areas spread throughout the whole screen. Almost bad enough to make fixed 1080p from a long throw preferable for desktop use with lots of text.

Here is a good windows test pattern generator from NEC that can fill the screen with pixel font text. (Be sure to turn off windows UI scaling factor)

It almost feels like I am being too picky but I can't stop thinking about how I got my w1070 a few years into it's lifepsan for $600 and for it's time it was basically flawless.
It's hard to accept any backward steps almost a decade later at ~4x the price ignoring inflation.

Starting to wonder if dividing the color depth into 1/4 was a wise tradeoff to gain 4k on DLP. Those little mirrors can only move so fast and when you load them down with having to represent 4 pixels each something has to give... but for whatever reason I never see reviews talk about banding; I guess it's not surprising though when the "name brand" UST's are touting 1/3 the contrast ratio of these chinese units and yet everyone is still so enamored by them except our man Gregory. Maybe if dithering is on point it is a fair tradeoff.


----------



## tovaxxx

I measured the c2 with 32-33 db at 3,5 m. Unfortunately, I could hear it in quiet passages.


----------



## lattiboy

whiskthecat said:


> Cool, the C2 is my 2nd option if the reviews don't turn out good for the T1. There is definitely some conflicting info out there about the input voltage.
> I'm just hesitant since none of these are gonna have the option of guaranteed no questions asked amazon returns and the Wemax Nova was such a dud.
> 
> BTW, How is the focus uniformity on that C2? On the Wemax Nova the upper left and right corners couldn't get into focus and once you found the best balance there were focused and unfocused areas spread throughout the whole screen. Almost bad enough to make fixed 1080p from a long throw preferable for desktop use with lots of text.
> 
> Here is a good windows test pattern generator from NEC that can fill the screen with pixel font text. (Be sure to turn off windows UI scaling factor)
> 
> It almost feels like I am being too picky but I can't stop thinking about how I got my w1070 a few years into it's lifepsan for $600 and for it's time it was basically flawless.
> It's hard to accept any backward steps almost a decade later at ~4x the price ignoring inflation.
> 
> Starting to wonder if dividing the color depth into 1/4 was a wise tradeoff to gain 4k on DLP. Those little mirrors can only move so fast and when you load them down with having to represent 4 pixels each something has to give... but for whatever reason I never see reviews talk about banding; I guess it's not surprising though when the "name brand" UST's are touting 1/3 the contrast ratio of these chinese units and yet everyone is still so enamored by them except our man Gregory. Maybe if dithering is on point it is a fair tradeoff.


I had the very well regarded Vivitek HK2299 before all these USTs and I can say without hesitation that these are much better projectors in every conceivable way. The Vivitek had a larger .65 DLP chip and an excellent optical system……but it’s contrast was worse, it was loud, and it’s almost adorable how “bright” it got; 800 lumens when calibrated. It also retailed for $2500.

So, yeah, there’s a ton of options out there, but if the T1 is really as good as the C2, but with full gamut coverage and slightly more brightness I can’t imagine what else you would want in a projector unless you’re willing to spend two or four times as much. Scheduled to have mine Monday if DHL pulls through.


----------



## abaintor

8k is the next step and the use of another dmd chip without any borders around the picture 
And maybe 3D support…


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Trying to join the T1 club.
Currently locked in as a backer for the Vava Chroma and have contacted them to see if I can be released and will import one of these.

Curious being all Chinese driven menus, any desire to ever put together a community cheat sheet for where all the settings are and what they do? For me personally that is one of the biggest issues, not being able to navigate around. 

I do not need to use built in apps or anything, but want to be sure I can make the needed settings changes for best picture quality and get it setup for WAM (Wife Approval Mode) so it just goes directly to the proper HDMI input on power-on.

In that regard, anybody have power on/off automated? If its an IR Remote I can just use my Broadlink RM4 Pro, but any luck with CEC, Alexa Intergration, etc?

*___*

External sub 3.5mm connection: Not saying this will work but worth a shot in my truck I had a Chinese Ham Radio that used 3.5mm to connect an external speaker. Every cable I tried, every adapter I tried, nothing worked. However I was able to get a very faint signal in just the right circumstances with a TRRS connection. Come to find out, it was not using a standard pin out, so no speaker would work with it correctly. I fixed this by using a TRRS breakout board and basically making my own custom cable.

I cant find the exact item I used in the truck but you could accomplish the same goal with something like this: 3.5mm (1/8") 4-Pole (TRRS) Audio Plug Terminal Block

For me I was getting a signal so I was able to use a multi-meter to figure stuff out, in this case it might require some guess work, and if the sub is sending some kind of proprietary signal, it may not work at all so YMMV.


----------



## whiskthecat

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Curious being all Chinese driven menus, any desire to ever put together a community cheat sheet for where all the settings are and what they do? For me personally that is one of the biggest issues, not being able to navigate around.


It seems they often include an English menu out of the gate but no other languages. Failing that I plan to just fall back on the Google Lens app on my phone that can translate stuff it sees through the camera on the fly.


----------



## Adamgoodapp

If some one can post pictures of the menus, my Chinese friend can translate them and I will put together a manual.


----------



## YuriM

Has anyone here ever tested this sub? Just curious about how it perform compared to my somos sub (with has no ports so I doubt I will be able to connect into the T1)


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

whiskthecat said:


> It seems they often include an English menu out of the gate but no other languages. Failing that I plan to just fall back on the Google Lens app on my phone that can translate stuff it sees through the camera on the fly.


Ha!, thats a pretty genius idea. Have not tried that


----------



## humax

YuriM said:


> Has anyone here ever tested this sub? Just curious about how it perform compared to my somos sub (with has no ports so I doubt I will be able to connect into the T1)



There is no proper on-line review for this, but it seems like decent build and sound quality for the price. However, I have read one Fengmi Cinema Pro user report that he could not get it to work with the projector, so proceed with caution as far as compatibility goes.

Xiaomi WEMAX S1 Review: specifications, price, features - Priceboon.com 

Fengmi wemax s1 max 80w 4ohm subwoofer soundbar speaker home theatre system Sale - Banggood.com sold out-arrival notice-arrival notice


----------



## lattiboy

It’s here…..

Too early for real impressions except the sound is truly great, but a bit narrow sounding just because of size constraints and coming from a huge soundbar.

There is some laser speckle, but even to somebody hyper sensitive like me, it is very negligible.

Waiting to get settings from Gregory or somebody else who does a proper calibration.

Just slightly louder than the C2, but no coil whine! EDIT: may be some light coil whine, but I need to test further…. 

Colors are back to the very wide gamut of my Bomaker Polaris 4K.

Also, English was the default language and better implemented then on the C2! Even sub menus were default English. So no worries about that.


----------



## chrisdu46

lattiboy said:


> Just slightly louder than the C2, but no coil whine! EDIT: may be some light coil whine, but I need to test further….


Bad news for me ... I currently own the Optoma CinemaX P2 and it is really discreet. Already that I found the measurements of Grégory too high concerning the C2, I am really disappointed to learn that the T1 is noisier than the C2 with some light coil whine ! I will undoubtedly cancel my order


----------



## Brajesh

@lattiboy, good to hear menus/sub-menus are in English. You may still be adjusting, but your image is skewed on the bottom-right. How are you finding placement of the PJ to get the image to squared onto the screen?

And, I assume you're seeing significantly better blacks over Bomaker Polaris 4K?


----------



## humax

lattiboy said:


> Colors are back to the very wide gamut of my Bomaker Polaris 4K.



That was fast! I know it is too early, but what about focus/softness/blurriness issues compared to the C2? Also, is the black floor slightly elevated due to higher brightness? Please, collect your thoughts and share your opinion on these matters, when you feel ready. I am assuming you 'll be keeping one of the two? Congrats on your new toy!


----------



## lattiboy

Brajesh said:


> @lattiboy, good to hear menus/sub-menus are in English. You may still be adjusting, but your image is skewed on the bottom-right. How are you finding placement of the PJ to get the image to squared onto the screen?
> 
> And, I assume you're seeing significantly better blacks over Bomaker Polaris 4K?


Placement was the same as the C2. I have a sloped floor and a very difficult situation for getting 100% symmetrical, but was able to get 98% with basically no effort.

Blacks and contrast appear to be as good or better than the C2, but it’s still bright out so I won’t know until this evening for sure.


----------



## Brajesh

Anyone else order from Chris Chen of Quanzhou Ruichi Technology Co., Ltd.? Ordered 1/8 and still showing "Waiting for supplier to ship" . Kinda slow.


----------



## ngcoolman

@lattiboy welcome to the club! Look forward to your impression vs C2. My bro is planning to buy a UST and I am trying to recommend either T1 or C2 to him.


----------



## lattiboy

chrisdu46 said:


> Bad news for me ... I currently own the Optoma CinemaX P2 and it is really discreet. Already that I found the measurements of Grégory too high concerning the C2, I am really disappointed to learn that the T1 is noisier than the C2 with some light coil whine ! I will undoubtedly cancel my order


Hey there, I put my impressions after 30 minutes. I suffer from tinnitus, and I need to see I’m just having a bit of a spell or if the PJ is producing the sound. I won’t have time to fully check out everything until later tonight. I really hope nobody is canceling an order based on my initial, highly speculative impressions


----------



## ngcoolman

whiskthecat said:


> Nice, good to hear. Just to clarify though I don't think my problem was with the fans but something else making a 6kHz whistling frequency. If you turned your head just right it would cancel out but I'd prefer to not need a neck brace to watch my projector, lol.
> 
> Can someone try a PS5 in HDR if possible? I know they are still hard to come by. A good torture test is the included "Astro's Playroom" game, go to the "SSD Speedway" level and look at the clouds.
> 
> Besides the PS5 here are some links to a few color banding test patterns to check for issues.
> The Wemax fails both of them spectacularly while my ancient w1070 does a respectable job.
> 
> Grayscale_10b
> Rotating_Gradients
> 
> One more thing, does anyone have the input voltage range for this thing? One of the reasons I went with the Wemax is it would run off 120v without needing a step up transformer.


I don't have a PS5. But I test the color banding test patterns. The gradients are smooth all the time in both video.


----------



## lattiboy

This is imperfect, but my torture scene for color rendition. First one is the C2, second is the T1. Keep in mind cameras aren’t perfect, lighting is different, and the C2 has better colors than you would get from just this picture, but yeah, it’s very apparent in person what full coverage vs 79% coverage means:


----------



## DeanM3

Wow! The T1 seems like a real winner at this point. Especially for the price.


----------



## rjyap

Wow. The color really pop with full 2020 coverage. Once I get my unit, will try to generate 3D LUT Rec 2020 for madVR. This will give an accurate color with limited option to adjust greyscale and CMS.


----------



## eezrider

Brajesh said:


> Anyone else order from Chris Chen of Quanzhou Ruichi Technology Co., Ltd.? Ordered 1/8 and still showing "Waiting for supplier to ship" . Kinda slow.


I ordered from Chris Chen around the same time and she made it clear it would likely ship end of this week. I checked yesterday and she said it was still on track as they were just getting another batch in.


----------



## zoomx2

lattiboy said:


> This is imperfect, but my torture scene for color rendition. First one is the C2, second is the T1. Keep in mind cameras aren’t perfect, lighting is different, and the C2 has better colors than you would get from just this picture, but yeah, it’s very apparent in person what full coverage vs 79% coverage means:
> 
> 
> View attachment 3223331
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3223329


Hugh difference don’t need to compare C2 anymore


----------



## eezrider

lattiboy said:


> This is imperfect, but my torture scene for color rendition. First one is the C2, second is the T1. Keep in mind cameras aren’t perfect, lighting is different, and the C2 has better colors than you would get from just this picture, but yeah, it’s very apparent in person what full coverage vs 79% coverage means:
> 
> 
> View attachment 3223331
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3223329


Hi @lattiboy, great news thanks for posting (I think a lot of people can start breathing again...). Given the recent discussion about a red cast to the images, do you see any evidence of that in the flesh? 

While I don't have quite your collection of projectors, I also have a Bomaker and ordered the T1 last week. Did you have to work as hard to fix the color of the images you posted from the T1 as you had to with the Bomaker? Images from the Bomaker always had a strong magenta cast to them, which you always said was hard to remove completely. These don't seem to suffer from that.


----------



## lattiboy

There’s an argument to be made that this is the best picture any mortal could have at home, even up to the JVCs and Sonys of the world. Contrast and blacks are equal or better to the already excellent C2 and colors are about as good as human eyes can see.

Dolby Vision (dark mode, office brightness) comparison, C2 on top, T1 on bottom:


----------



## DeanM3

Which video mode are you running these tests from?


----------



## lattiboy

eezrider said:


> Hi @lattiboy, great news thanks for posting (I think a lot of people can start breathing again...). Given the recent discussion about a red cast to the images, do you see any evidence of that in the flesh?
> 
> While I don't have quite your collection of projectors, I also have a Bomaker and ordered the T1 last week. Did you have to work as hard to fix the color of the images you posted from the T1 as you had to with the Bomaker? Images from the Bomaker always had a strong magenta cast to them, which you always said was hard to remove completely. These don't seem to suffer from that.


No red cast I can see, no color correction required like the Bomaker. These are straight out of camera on an iPhone 12 Pro Max.




DeanM3 said:


> Which video mode are you running these tests from?


Updated the post. Both in dark Dolby mode and “office” brightness


----------



## whiskthecat

lattiboy said:


> Just slightly louder than the C2, but no coil whine! EDIT: may be some light coil whine, but I need to test further….


If you have an android phone there is an app called Spectroid that will show you a frequency plot of what the microphone is hearing. The Wemax whine appeared as a fairly tall and extremely narrow spike visible maybe 15 to 20db above my room's noise floor at 6kHz. Unfortunately, I didn't take a screenshot. I had to wiggle the phone around a bit because I suspect it uses 2 microphones and destructive interference was occurring. I'm tempted to say if you aren't sure if it is there or not then it must be way better than the Wemax but my girlfriend could hear it at first but then stopped noticing it oddly enough even though it never waned in intensity to my ears so it might be highly subjective.


----------



## spocky12

eezrider said:


> What about the Projectivy tools? @spocky12, do you anticipate that your tools will allow control over the lower-level color/tint settings for the T1 (as I recall you're planning to try to support the T1)?


I have no idea. Amlogic libs were impossible to import for a non system app. I really hope they didn't do the same for mtk libs.
If they did, root might be our only way to do it (once again, there was a protection that came from amlogic bootloader/kernel, hopefully it didn't find is way to the mtk kernel).
Keeping my fingers crossed for lib import, because trying to hack a 2k+€ projector with no guarantee tends to make me sweat


----------



## ngcoolman

lattiboy said:


> No red cast I can see, no color correction required like the Bomaker. These are straight out of camera on an iPhone 12 Pro Max.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Updated the post. Both in dark Dolby mode and “office” brightness


Great to hear the positive feedbacks from you. By the way, I found the office mode seem to oversaturated and blow out the details occasionally. The view mode is better at keeping the details but maybe too warmth on color temperature. I wish they will give us some control to fine tune the dolby vision color for our own liking.


----------



## whiskthecat

ngcoolman said:


> I don't have a PS5. But I test the color banding test patterns. The gradients are smooth all the time in both videos.


Top tier, thanks for confirming.


----------



## GaeIta80

lattiboy said:


> There’s an argument to be made that this is the best picture any mortal could have at home, even up to the JVCs and Sonys of the world. Contrast and blacks are equal or better to the already excellent C2 and colors are about as good as human eyes can see.
> 
> Dolby Vision (dark mode, office brightness) comparison, C2 on top, T1 on bottom:
> 
> View attachment 3223368
> 
> View attachment 3223369
> 
> 
> View attachment 3223370
> 
> 
> View attachment 3223371


Thanks for this pics comparison C2 vs T1 with same DV settings! 

T1 seems more colourful and with a larger colour gamma as per specs. 

Do you confirm DV presets mode cannot be changed/tweaked on both C2 and T1?

Which screen are you using? Thanks a lot and please keep posting comparative pics/videos/observations between the 2 to help us out picking up the best value for the money 💰


----------



## rjyap

Would be interesting to do a shootout between JVC laser projector vs Fengmi T1. Bright scenes should favour T1 while as usual JVC will excel at dark scenes.


----------



## indieke2

Interesting those screens. But of course not 100 % faithful what you see. Contrast looks better. But I remember this movie not so strong reds, and more yellow. But you see it in real life. You have the chance to compare. And if the picture looks better on the T1 , that is good to hear. But that sound is a problem.


----------



## indieke2

eezrider said:


> I ordered from Chris Chen around the same time and she made it clear it would likely ship end of this week. I checked yesterday and she said it was still on track as they were just getting another batch in.


I ordered all there, sometimes they have to wait a new delivery, but never problem for the rest.


----------



## whiskthecat

humax said:


> What about focus/softness/blurriness issues compared to the C2?


I 2nd this request.

As previously mentioned if someone has a PC hooked up to this thing I think there is no better test than the NEC pattern generator set to high or medium resolution on the pixel font pattern, high can be a bit too torturous for a wobulator.

Sometimes it can be hard to convey sharpness through a camera but the human eye/brain is very good at telling how sharp text is. Some upper corner shots would be appreciated if possible.

To eliminate the need for a PC, here is a google drive link that includes the windows NEC program, PNGs of the test pattern (if AndroidTV can display them I'm not sure), and 2-second long MKVs of those PNGs that should definitely play off a USB.


----------



## ufokillerz

Brajesh said:


> Anyone else order from Chris Chen of Quanzhou Ruichi Technology Co., Ltd.? Ordered 1/8 and still showing "Waiting for supplier to ship" . Kinda slow.


ordered on 1/10 from him. waiting too


----------



## abaintor

Hi thank you for the feedback and good news for the translation of submenus. 
Can you also make a feedback on motion compensation ?
Thanks


----------



## GaeIta80

abaintor said:


> Hi thank you for the feedback and good news for the translation of submenus.
> Can you also make a feedback on motion compensation ?
> Thanks


Yeah, it would be great to check the MEMC performance vs C2 one since they mentioned some issues in there, thanks


----------



## shanedowley

@lattiboy Thanks for your early impressions on the T1 vs C2. These are enough to sway my preference to the T1. I’m not too concerned about projector noise. Ive had a number of USTs from Xiaomi and Fengmi and just gotten used to some fan and coil whine noise. My solution is to turn the sound up and drown it out! Anyway; excited to be placing my order today. I’m going w Alibaba. Got a quote for 1,775 GBP including shipping which is the best price I could find.


----------



## GaeIta80

shanedowley said:


> @lattiboy Thanks for your early impressions on the T1 vs C2. These are enough to sway my preference to the T1. I’m not too concerned about projector noise. Ive had a number of USTs from Xiaomi and Fengmi and just gotten used to some fan and coil whine noise. My solution is to turn the sound up and drown it out! Anyway; excited to be placing my order today. I’m going w Alibaba. Got a quote for 1,775 GBP including shipping which is the best price I could find.


Watch out about the 25% custom tax to pay at the shipping which could be a surprise


----------



## humax

GaeIta80 said:


> Watch out about the 25% custom tax to pay at the shipping which could be a surprise



+1. Buyers in the EU beware, as there will likely be extra charges (VAT+ import taxes), which you will have to pay for the item to be delivered from China. It is funny, but a lot of people in Europe do not realize this and then complain about the surcharges, when there is nothing to be done anymore.


----------



## Tanizhq

lattiboy said:


> Also, English was the default language and better implemented then on the C2! Even sub menus were default English. So no worries about that.


I was wondering if you can say where you bought it from and if you contacted them specifally for that? I would really like the version with English Sub menus too, so trying to figure out the best way to get it.


----------



## jakechoy

@lattiboy awesome comps! The screenshots truly show the better color and contrast of the T1 tri-laser. The Vava, U2 etc are really not considering if anyone is looking for tri-laser.


----------



## ngcoolman

For those who is worried about the menu language. Even if the machine comes with the chinese menu, you can change it to english without needing to update the firmware by following the following steps.

1. Press the highlighted button on the remote to bring up the dashboard menu.










2. navigate to the highlighted box and click to enter the setting menu










3. click the 2nd box from the top left to enter the system menu 










4. the 6th row is the language setting, change it to english. 










5. now you shall be all set with every menu and sub-menu in English!


----------



## shanedowley

GaeIta80 said:


> Watch out about the 25% custom tax to pay at the shipping which could be a surprise


Thanks! I have budgeted for this having bought a few UST projectors direct from China / HK (Bangood, AliExpress) in recent years.


----------



## indieke2

I am in a different position then most. I order at alibaba in China, but I live in Thailand. They ship last part by land as taxes are very low. So from the moment, I have a real good review, I will decide to buy this one or the Xiaomi. The noise is a problem. My now sold Fengmi C 2 had no noise at all.


----------



## mirkmito

Hi guys...
with bluray at 23.97 / 24p, how does it behave?
Stuttering?


----------



## jakechoy

ngcoolman said:


> For those who is worried about the menu language. Even if the machine comes with the chinese menu, you can change it to english without needing to update the firmware by following the following steps.
> 
> 1. Press the highlighted button on the remote to bring up the dashboard menu.
> 
> View attachment 3223492
> 
> 
> 2. navigate to the highlighted box and click to enter the setting menu
> 
> View attachment 3223493
> 
> 
> 3. click the 2nd box from the top left to enter the system menu
> 
> View attachment 3223494
> 
> 
> 4. the 6th row is the language setting, change it to english.
> 
> View attachment 3223495
> 
> 
> 5. now you shall be all set with every menu and sub-menu in English!
> 
> View attachment 3223497


good that they fixed this in the latest firmware. The previous firmware has the sub-menu in chinese regardless if u switch to english. Only the main menu was in English.

Looks like the only remaining issue is the subwoofer bass if one is using the built-in speakers. T1 and C2 are the top 2 USTs right now; no brainers.


----------



## jakechoy

mirkmito said:


> Hi guys...
> with bluray at 23.97 / 24p, how does it behave?
> Stuttering?


nope. It handles them fine during my tests with DV 4K at 24fps.


----------



## GaeIta80

jakechoy said:


> good that they fixed this in the latest firmware. The previous firmware has the sub-menu in chinese regardless if u switch to english. Only the main menu was in English.
> 
> Looks like the only remaining issue is the subwoofer bass if one is using the built-in speakers. T1 and C2 are the top 2 USTs right now; no brainers.


How about the MEMC motion


jakechoy said:


> good that they fixed this in the latest firmware. The previous firmware has the sub-menu in chinese regardless if u switch to english. Only the main menu was in English.
> 
> Looks like the only remaining issue is the subwoofer bass if one is using the built-in speakers. T1 and C2 are the top 2 USTs right now; no brainers.


How about the MEMC motion interpolation handling? Same as Xiaomi C2 or worst? 

I guess that's an important one to clarify, thanks!

G.


----------



## mirkmito

[CITAZIONE="jakechoy, posta: 61348277, membro: 9579597"]
no. Lo gestisce bene durante i miei test con DV 4K a 24 fps.[/CITAZIONE]

Hai provato il DV dual-layer?


----------



## Kev1000000

lattiboy said:


> There is some laser speckle, but even to somebody hyper sensitive like me, it is very negligible.


Oh man, I am _super _sensitive to laser speckle. I was hoping it was eliminated. Can you compare it to any other tri-laser projector in terms of speckle? Like the L9G, LSP9T, or LG 85HULA?


----------



## Tanizhq

Also, I don't know if someone can check how far away it needs to be to make a 100 inch screen? To the side closer to the viewer, need to order a TV cabinet for it haha


----------



## shanedowley

jakechoy said:


> nope. It handles them fine during my tests with DV 4K at 24fps.


Note that all these 0.47 and 0.66” DMD based projectors are locked at 60Hz native so any 24fps material will have to go through some form of pulldown - so there will be some judder. MEMC is applied to eliminate it, but at a cost of artefacts and soap opera effect. Some people don’t mind the judder and leave MEMC off (my personal choice). It depends on your preferences really and how sensitive you are to either judder or SOE.


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

Tanizhq said:


> Also, I don't know if someone can check how far away it needs to be to make a 100 inch screen? To the side closer to the viewer, need to order a TV cabinet for it haha


Lots of useful info here - distances from the wall to projector, cabinet top to bottom of screen, etc.


----------



## DeanM3

shanedowley said:


> Note that all these 0.47 and 0.66” DMD based projectors are locked at 60Hz native so any 24fps material will have to go through some form of pulldown - so there will be some judder. MEMC is applied to eliminate it, but at a cost of artefacts and soap opera effect. Some people don’t mind the judder and leave MEMC off (my personal choice). It depends on your preferences really and how sensitive you are to either judder or SOE.


I imagine this has to do with the color wheel and synchronizing the frame rate to the wheel rotation speed. Not sure the viability of lowering or raising the speed to a multiple of 24, but probably not a good sign that none of the manufacturers have pulled this off yet.


----------



## Rob79

shanedowley said:


> Note that all these 0.47 and 0.66” DMD based projectors are locked at 60Hz native so any 24fps material will have to go through some form of pulldown - so there will be some judder. MEMC is applied to eliminate it, but at a cost of artefacts and soap opera effect. Some people don’t mind the judder and leave MEMC off (my personal choice). It depends on your preferences really and how sensitive you are to either judder or SOE.


On non UST projectors XPR chips can do 120hz at 1080p so would this not be able to do that? I know someone posted an Xbox snip earlier in the thread showing it can do 1080p at 120hz. Has anyone tried this yet? If it can it should be able to handle 24fps material in 120hz mode. I think the Optoma P2 talks about this also.


----------



## shanedowley

Rob79 said:


> On non UST projectors XPR chips can do 120hz at 1080p so would this not be able to do that? I know someone posted an Xbox snip earlier in the thread showing it can do 1080p at 120hz. Has anyone tried this yet? If it can it should be able to handle 24fps material in 120hz mode. I think the Optoma P2 talks about this also.


120 is a straight doubling multiple of 60 so it works by doubling the display’s refresh rate and halving the resolution (natively it’s still 60Hz but it appears double because you’ve halved the number of horizontal lines).
This is why btw 3D blu-ray films look so good on these devices that support 3D — the material is shot in 24fps and the units refresh at 120Hz/1080p. 120/24 divides evenly and so no pulldown required and no judder.
So I guess the next advancement should be DMDs that are natively 120Hz at 2160p. This would be lovely!


----------



## abaintor

As a soap opera effect lover : can someone owning the T1 tell us if the MEMC works correctly ? I hate judder/suttering on travelings...
Thank you


----------



## lattiboy

Kev1000000 said:


> Oh man, I am _super _sensitive to laser speckle. I was hoping it was eliminated. Can you compare it to any other tri-laser projector in terms of speckle? Like the L9G, LSP9T, or LG 85HULA?


I had the LG HU810P and it was unbearably bad, even on non-ALR screens. This is very, very mild. Only noticeable in red and orange static bars. For instance the YouTube logo on the launch page of my Roku.

I am using a .6 gain CLR screen.

My Bomaker Polaris had zero speckle, for reference. Same with the C2 and L5F.


----------



## lattiboy

indieke2 said:


> I am in a different position then most. I order at alibaba in China, but I live in Thailand. They ship last part by land as taxes are very low. So from the moment, I have a real good review, I will decide to buy this one or the Xiaomi. The noise is a problem. My now sold Fengmi C 2 had no noise at all.


Had the chance to test just now. Still having some tinitus issues, but I sat in my garage, everything on mute and started the projector. Been sitting here For 15 minutes and can hear the faintest pitch on mute, but my wife hears nothing. For somebody who obsesses over annoying sounds, it’s not a deal breaker. 

PS I had to return my LG HU810P because of coil whine, so I’m very familiar with the sound. This is nothing like that, but it’s not as quiet as the C2.


----------



## tovaxxx

I did not find the C2 quiet either


----------



## Kev1000000

lattiboy said:


> I had the LG HU810P and it was unbearably bad, even on non-ALR screens. This is very, very mild. Only noticeable in red and orange static bars. For instance the YouTube logo on the launch page of my Roku.
> 
> I am using a .6 gain CLR screen.
> 
> My Bomaker Polaris had zero speckle, for reference. Same with the C2 and L5F.


How about with a white background?


----------



## eezrider

lattiboy said:


> There’s an argument to be made that this is the best picture any mortal could have at home, even up to the JVCs and Sonys of the world. Contrast and blacks are equal or better to the already excellent C2 and colors are about as good as human eyes can see.
> 
> Dolby Vision (dark mode, office brightness) comparison, C2 on top, T1 on bottom:
> 
> View attachment 3223368
> 
> View attachment 3223369
> 
> 
> View attachment 3223370
> 
> 
> View attachment 3223371


@lattiboy these pictures are great - thanks for sharing. However, unless there are other factors at play, there looks to be a color shift between the C2 and T1 images, not just that the T1 has richer colors. The C2 is yellower, the T1 is redder/pinker. That would seem to be consistent with the general comments about a red shift occurring with tri-lasers. You said you didn't see evidence of a red shift so I'm wondering, were these images taken with the same camera under similar conditions? In an earlier set of images posted by @ngcoolman of the archer (page 11), in which he contrasted the picture modes, to my eye the View/Dark mode rather Office/Dark mode looked like it was the most natural; Office mode having a distinct red shift. From the name alone, I might guess a daytime-oriented Office mode would be less discriminating/accurate than a view (movie?) mode (going for max brightness at the expense of accuracy). Could you post images of the couple by the wall in View/Dark and Office/Dark mode. It's also possible that your phone is adjusting the image using its auto white-balance function. The only way to remove that would be to set up the C2 and T1 side by side and compare. Is that possible?


----------



## GaeIta80

Tentative #3: can anyone here with both projectsors I.e. @lattiboy review the T1 MEMC motion vs Xiaomi C2? 

Thanks again! And sorry for the chase 😁


----------



## lattiboy

eezrider said:


> @lattiboy these pictures are great - thanks for sharing. However, unless there are other factors at play, there looks to be a color shift between the C2 and T1 images, not just that the T1 has richer colors. The C2 is yellower, the T1 is redder/pinker. That would seem to be consistent with the general comments about a red shift occurring with tri-lasers. You said you didn't see evidence of a red shift so I'm wondering, were these images taken with the same camera under similar conditions? In an earlier set of images posted by @ngcoolman of the archer (page 11), in which he contrasted the picture modes, to my eye the View/Dark mode rather Office/Dark mode looked like it was the most natural; Office mode having a distinct red shift. From the name alone, I might guess a daytime-oriented Office mode would be less discriminating/accurate than a view (movie?) mode (going for max brightness at the expense of accuracy). Could you post images of the couple by the wall in View/Dark and Office/Dark mode. It's also possible that your phone is adjusting the image using its auto white-balance function. The only way to remove that would be to set up the C2 and T1 side by side and compare. Is that possible?


So this is complicated. I don’t have any tools to achieve scientific objectivity (that’s why we have Gregory and other reviewers), so I would simply say that in my experience with now 5 laser PJs that single laser models (and the dual laser Xaomi C2) kind of suck at red. In actual viewing I don’t notice any real red shift or cast, simply more shades of red more equally distributed. The view modes change the color temperature quite a bit, so I set both to office and to Dolby dark mode. You have very limited options as Dolby Vision is supposed to be reference, so you’re operating at what Xaomi believes to be the best solution for that view mode and Dolby mode.

I’ve also noticed that each PJ has its own little nightmare with photos. I’m using an iPhone 12 Pro Max and I do incredibly minimal changes to make it appear as I’m looking at it, but without going into Lightroom and doing a full color calibration for each picture it’s kind of the best I can do and you gotta take my word for it.


----------



## lattiboy

GaeIta80 said:


> Tentative #3: can anyone here with both projectsors I.e. @lattiboy review the T1 MEMC motion vs Xiaomi C2?
> 
> Thanks again! And sorry for the chase 😁


With the provision I hate MEMC and never have it on, it appears to work as well as on any other projector I’ve used it with. I didn’t notice any obvious glitching or ghosting, but I can barley stand to keep it on for even a few minutes. No sports on currently so I can’t test football until Sunday, which is the only time I might use it on low. Even then the interstitial video and commercials make me feel queasy with MEMC engaged.

Soap opera effect to the max, which has been my experience with everything except some of the Sony stuff in their higher end TVs.


----------



## GaeIta80

lattiboy said:


> With the provision I hate MEMC and never have it on, it appears to work as well as on any other projector I’ve used it with. I didn’t notice any obvious glitching or ghosting, but I can barley stand to keep it on for even a few minutes. No sports on currently so I can’t test football until Sunday, which is the only time I might use it on low. Even then the interstitial video and commercials make me feel queasy with MEMC engaged.
> 
> Soap opera effect to the max, which has been my experience with everything except some of the Sony stuff in their higher end TVs.


Thanks mate, I just asked since someone mentioned T1 MEMC to work bit weird compared to Xiaomi C2 one...so turned off is actually better in your experience? Greg seemed like a big supporter of MEMC on the Xiaomi C2 so was just wondering 🤔


----------



## lattiboy

GaeIta80 said:


> Thanks mate, I just asked since someone mentioned T1 MEMC to work bit weird compared to Xiaomi C2 one...so turned off is actually better in your experience? Greg seemed like a big supporter of MEMC on the Xiaomi C2 so was just wondering 🤔


If you’re looking at scrolling test patterns or moving text it is certainly better, but the soap opera effect is a personal thing and I find it to be very unpleasant.
I’ve yet to see an MEMC implementation that didn’t get all “uncanny valley” very quickly.

Blur is part of the language of film, and adding 36 frames every second is going to have an effect. The Hobbit was only at 48fps and was pretty universally reviled.


----------



## GaeIta80

lattiboy said:


> If you’re looking at scrolling test patterns or moving text it is certainly better, but the soap opera effect is a personal thing and I find it to be very unpleasant.
> I’ve yet to see an MEMC implementation that didn’t get all “uncanny valley” very quickly.
> 
> Blur is part of the language of film, and adding 36 frames every second is going to have an effect. The Hobbit was only at 48fps and was pretty universally reviled.


Allright, so like for like and having them both...if you had to pick the best UST projector with DV/DA &.co...you would go for the T1 (vs Xiaomi C2)? 🙂


----------



## tovaxxx

If you like SOE you get a great MEMC. But i don't like SOE. I feel the same as lattiboy. On my SONY OLED TV i have a good MEMC on the position low without SOE.


----------



## lattiboy

GaeIta80 said:


> Allright, so like for like and having them both...if you had to pick the best UST projector with DV/DA &.co...you would go for the T1 (vs Xiaomi C2)? 🙂


They’re both excellent tbh.

If price isn’t a factor the T1 is better with the knowledge there is some laser speckle and (possibly) some light coil whine. The C2 is quieter and has zero speckle. Also, the C2 is a few hundred bucks cheaper.

Kind of a “can’t go wrong” situation.

The biggest advantage of the T1 is color gamut and sound.

If you have a home theater system already the sound is useless to you, so you’re basically going for the color. The brightness difference was negligible to me, but I’ll let somebody else do a test with proper equipment.


----------



## DeanM3

Pricing at the moment is nearly the same. I’ve gotten quotes from suppliers for both over the past two weeks.


----------



## lattiboy

One more to show the difference, but please keep in mind because of how cameras work and the difference in lighting, it is more pronounced then in actual viewing! The C2 is, again, an incredible projector and in many kinds of media almost indistinguishable from the T1.

This is from a BluRay rip of “Patton”.

C2









T1


----------



## humax

Thank you for your input, lattiboy! You are the only one having both units and what a pleasant headache this is! Your comments read like a prologue to Gregory's review. I am sure he will agree with most of your observations, when he gets his hands on it.


----------



## DeanM3

Can you comment on the size / weight comparison of the two? Is the T1 really that much heavier ? (4kg)


----------



## GaeIta80

lattiboy said:


> One more to show the difference, but please keep in mind because of how cameras work and the difference in lighting, it is more pronounced then in actual viewing! The C2 is, again, an incredible projector and in many kinds of media almost indistinguishable from the T1.
> 
> This is from a BluRay rip of “Patton”.
> 
> C2
> View attachment 3223743
> 
> 
> T1
> View attachment 3223750


T1 here pops for better colour richness, accuracy & contrast...ahhh it's gonna be a hard decision! 😄

Which screen are you using btw?

Thanks for all these precious hints!


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

I think I am going to have to put in an order for the T1, now to track down the current best seller for 1 unit.
Also what is a good 110-120" screen everybody recomending these days, preferably thin bezels and easy to mount (ALR Screen) and I plan to put LEDs behind it.


----------



## lattiboy

I’m not telling anyone how to live their life, but ordering the most powerful intoxicants legally available in your area and watching nature documentaries on a T1 is not a bad idea…..

all of these in “view mode” and “dark” in Dolby Vision. From Our Planet and Chasing Color on Netflix. Directly out of camera on the iPhone 12 Pro Max:


----------



## zoomx2

Thank you I can’t wait for my unit. How’s the day light/ light on pictures?


----------



## tnaik4

I just find out about this projector and it seems like the best UST projector one csn buy, i have a totally treated home theatre room, like black velvet all over the room, and will be using my 1.0 gain white screen.
I just couple of questions plz :

1- does the T1 has a laser slider or any way to lower light output, since at 2800lumens it might be too bright for dedicated rooms, and lower light will inprove black level too.

2- can the T1 get up to 120inch diagonal 16:9 ? If so is it stated how far it should be from the screen.

3- did anyone yet measure contrast? I know it stated at 3000:1 , but was it confirmed anywhere ? Also is there a dynamic mode to help improve black level further ?

Thank you a lot.


----------



## lattiboy

tnaik4 said:


> I just find out about this projector and it seems like the best UST projector one csn buy, i have a totally treated home theatre room, like black velvet all over the room, and will be using my 1.0 gain white screen.
> I just couple of questions plz :
> 
> 1- does the T1 has a laser slider or any way to lower light output, since at 2800lumens it might be too bright for dedicated rooms, and lower light will inprove black level too.
> 
> 2- can the T1 get up to 120inch diagonal 16:9 ? If so is it stated how far it should be from the screen.
> 
> 3- did anyone yet measure contrast? I know it stated at 3000:1 , but was it confirmed anywhere ? Also is there a dynamic mode to help improve black level further ?
> 
> Thank you a lot.


I do not think I would recommend this projector for a controlled light theater room, especially not with a 1.0 screen. You can adjust the brightness, but there are only four modes and the lowest one is still very bright compared to most conventional projectors. I doubt any mode gets much below 2000 lumens on a 1.0 screen.

Here are the measurements for the Xaomi C2, it’s less bright cousin:


----------



## humax

tnaik4 said:


> I just find out about this projector and it seems like the best UST projector one csn buy, i have a totally treated home theatre room, like black velvet all over the room, and will be using my 1.0 gain white screen.
> I just couple of questions plz :
> 
> 1- does the T1 has a laser slider or any way to lower light output, since at 2800lumens it might be too bright for dedicated rooms, and lower light will inprove black level too.
> 
> 2- can the T1 get up to 120inch diagonal 16:9 ? If so is it stated how far it should be from the screen.
> 
> 3- did anyone yet measure contrast? I know it stated at 3000:1 , but was it confirmed anywhere ? Also is there a dynamic mode to help improve black level further ?
> 
> Thank you a lot.



If you are looking for optimal contrast and lowest possible black floor, you will need to pair this with a 0.6 CLR screen. 3000:1 is good, but not enough on its own to generate a completely haze-free image in demanding/torture dark scenes and a white screen will not do you any favors or improve black levels. 

Yes, Xiaomi/Fengmi machines generally hit their specified numbers according to Gregory, who reviews them, but he also uses an expensive Vividstorm 0.6 CLR for his tests, so that should tell you something.


----------



## indieke2

What is a pity, and nothing to do with PQ, I had the Fengmi C 2, and it was splendid in white. Went well with my interior.
This is not the most elegant. Liked the Xiaomi C 2 les too.


----------



## eezrider

indieke2 said:


> What is a pity, and nothing to do with PQ, I had the Fengmi C 2, and it was splendid in white. Went well with my interior.
> This is not the most elegant. Liked the Xiaomi C 2 les too.


Cool room. Spray paint ?


----------



## esegan

*lattiboy*
Sorry, but I still don’t understand at what settings you took the photo for comparison, I’m especially interested in the color hue settings (RGB white scale), as well as color saturation?
I can assume that in T1 the white scale has a more red tint, and C2 has more yellow / green and therefore different shades of the white scale affect the overall color image. And with different shades of the white scale, it is impossible to adequately compare the images.
For a fair comparison, you need to remove the color saturation to 0 and set the black/white image to custom RGB mode, both projectors are as equal in hue as possible and as close to black/white with no tint as possible.
Then you need to adjust the color saturation to be the same, since T1 and C2 have different color gamuts, then you need to add more color saturation to C2 or reduce the color saturation of T1.
After these settings, you can already truthfully and honestly compare images.
You need to use the available color calibration settings of the projectors to get more natural colors, and then compare C2 and T1. For these simple 2 adjustments, no calibration device is needed, it can be easily adjusted visually with the eyes.
A calibration tool is more needed to set the RGB white scale and the exact gamma 2.2 for 2 and 20 points, as well as the color space. But C2 and T1 do not have these exact settings.
Your photos don't show the best colors the C2 and T1 can produce, only the factory settings.


----------



## lattiboy

esegan said:


> *lattiboy*
> Sorry, but I still don’t understand at what settings you took the photo for comparison, I’m especially interested in the color hue settings (RGB white scale), as well as color saturation?
> I can assume that in T1 the white scale has a more red tint, and C2 has more yellow / green and therefore different shades of the white scale affect the overall color image. And with different shades of the white scale, it is impossible to adequately compare the images.
> For a fair comparison, you need to remove the color saturation to 0 and set the black/white image to custom RGB mode, both projectors are as equal in hue as possible and as close to black/white with no tint as possible.
> Then you need to adjust the color saturation to be the same, since T1 and C2 have different color gamuts, then you need to add more color saturation to C2 or reduce the color saturation of T1.
> After these settings, you can already truthfully and honestly compare images.
> You need to use the available color calibration settings of the projectors to get more natural colors, and then compare C2 and T1. For these simple 2 adjustments, no calibration device is needed, it can be easily adjusted visually with the eyes.
> A calibration tool is more needed to set the RGB white scale and the exact gamma 2.2 for 2 and 20 points, as well as the color space. But C2 and T1 do not have these exact settings.
> Your photos don't show the best colors the C2 and T1 can produce, only the factory settings.


You should buy one and do this! I don’t get paid to review and 90% of people will use out of the box presets. Also, Dolby Vision content has no hue or color controls.


----------



## jeff9n

I just received my Fengmi T1 projector. Here are some photos taken using Standard mode.
Definitely no reddish tint on the face. I have not modify any setting to the projector. Just fired it 
up and been amazed with the sharpness, brightness and color pop. Actualimages look much
better than my photography skill or lack of it. LOL

































Brajesh said:


> That would've been the sensible thing to do, LOL, but already ordered mine. Too red or too purple, take your poison I guess. Hopefully, the red can be toned down in the picture settings.
> 
> Here are the pics Gregory posted that @abaintor is referring to. The pics are from supplier NothingButLabel:
> 
> 
> 
> https://zupimages.net/up/22/01/zad7.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://zupimages.net/up/22/01/c0fx.png
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://zupimages.net/up/22/01/ydht.jpg


----------



## phchrono

@lattiboy, 
since you have the T1 and the C2 in your possession, do you think the contrast is better on the T1?
And since you had the Polaris 4K, for the colors it's essentially the same as on the T1?
Thank


----------



## jeff9n

When the projector was first powered on, it went straight to the main screen. There was no set up. The menu was already in English. It must had been configured prior to shipping. I can tell the box was opened because the seal was broken. And there is no plastic film to peel off the projector. 

Anyone else also encounter the same thing with your unit?


----------



## lattiboy

-After watching some more stuff, I think Dolby Vision does have a red hue/bias. I have to play around with it some more, but skin tones seem to be the main issue. It wasn’t terribly obvious at first, and it isn’t a show stopper, but it’s definitely there if you look for it. Mostly in light skinned people in warmer scenes looking red. It’s very difficult to get on camera, but wanted peole to know. Not a showstopper, and hopefully something that can be addressed with an update. In the meantime, you have no control over color in DV. 

- I prefer bright mode for a lot of stuff on DV. You give up some blacks and contrast, but I find dark is just too dim in dark scenes.

- the balance between color configuration and brightness mode is something I hope somebody figures out. It’s a pain.

- game mode is DARK! I don’t play many games, so I can’t figure out if lag is an issue.

Some caps from more cinema material:


----------



## ngcoolman

lattiboy said:


> -After watching some more stuff, I think Dolby Vision does have a red hue/bias. I have to play around with it some more, but skin tones seem to be the main issue. It wasn’t terribly obvious at first, and it isn’t a show stopper, but it’s definitely there if you look for it. Mostly in light skinned people in warmer scenes looking red. It’s very difficult to get on camera, but wanted peole to know. Not a showstopper, and hopefully something that can be addressed with an update. In the meantime, you have no control over color in DV.
> 
> - I prefer bright mode for a lot of stuff on DV. You give up some blacks and contrast, but I find dark is just too dim in dark scenes.
> 
> - the balance between color configuration and brightness mode is something I hope somebody figures out. It’s a pain.
> 
> - game mode is DARK! I don’t play many games, so I can’t figure out if lag is an issue.
> 
> Some caps from more cinema material:
> 
> View attachment 3224108
> View attachment 3224111
> View attachment 3224109
> View attachment 3224112
> 
> View attachment 3224113


I share your opinion mostly except I prefer dolby vision in DARK mode so that I can see more shadow details. For brightness mode, I found that the brighter the mode, the more obvious is the red hue/bias. I saw that your room has quite a nice light control. In this case, you can try out night/silent mode. Those two modes while don't have the most popping colors, I found them provide quite a cinematic experience when the room is dark enough. Also, the red hue/bias seems to be less obvious in those modes.


----------



## Tanizhq

lattiboy said:


> -After watching some more stuff, I think Dolby Vision does have a red hue/bias. I have to play around with it some more, but skin tones seem to be the main issue. It wasn’t terribly obvious at first, and it isn’t a show stopper, but it’s definitely there if you look for it. Mostly in light skinned people in warmer scenes looking red. It’s very difficult to get on camera, but wanted peole to know. Not a showstopper, and hopefully something that can be addressed with an update. In the meantime, you have no control over color in DV.
> 
> - I prefer bright mode for a lot of stuff on DV. You give up some blacks and contrast, but I find dark is just too dim in dark scenes.
> 
> - the balance between color configuration and brightness mode is something I hope somebody figures out. It’s a pain.
> 
> - game mode is DARK! I don’t play many games, so I can’t figure out if lag is an issue.
> 
> Some caps from more cinema material:
> 
> View attachment 3224108
> View attachment 3224111
> View attachment 3224109
> View attachment 3224112
> 
> View attachment 3224113


Hey, could you say where you bought it from and for how much? Just wondering so I can order from a reputable place.


----------



## Adamgoodapp

Is there a Zoom function in the software to change screen size?


----------



## tnaik4

Need someone who used madVR on pc to do a Bt2020 3dlut and use madVR tonemapping.
I think with the above it ll produce an insanely good picture


----------



## abaintor

tnaik4 said:


> Need someone who used madVR on pc to do a Bt2020 3dlut and use madVR tonemapping.
> I think with the above it ll produce an insanely good picture


Madvr is a great piece of software but I don't see the point : no software solution (including madvr) is able to decode dolby vision/hdr10+ dynamic metadata, so it would be usefull for non dolby vision content or if you want to replace dolby vision data by custom tone mapping
Besides you need a probe to create the 3dlut ?


----------



## humax

jeff9n said:


> When the projector was first powered on, it went straight to the main screen. There was no set up. The menu was already in English. It must had been configured prior to shipping. I can tell the box was opened because the seal was broken. And there is no plastic film to peel off the projector.
> 
> Anyone else also encounter the same thing with your unit?



Most Chinese stores open the box prior to shipping, especially with expensive items, so as to ensure the item is working properly, before the buyer receives it. Surely, you would not want to deal with a DOA unit form China, would you? In your case, they also changed the menu in English. Nothing weird is going on. Enjoy your projector!


----------



## zoomx2

lattiboy said:


> -After watching some more stuff, I think Dolby Vision does have a red hue/bias. I have to play around with it some more, but skin tones seem to be the main issue. It wasn’t terribly obvious at first, and it isn’t a show stopper, but it’s definitely there if you look for it. Mostly in light skinned people in warmer scenes looking red. It’s very difficult to get on camera, but wanted peole to know. Not a showstopper, and hopefully something that can be addressed with an update. In the meantime, you have no control over color in DV.
> 
> - I prefer bright mode for a lot of stuff on DV. You give up some blacks and contrast, but I find dark is just too dim in dark scenes.
> 
> - the balance between color configuration and brightness mode is something I hope somebody figures out. It’s a pain.
> 
> - game mode is DARK! I don’t play many games, so I can’t figure out if lag is an issue.
> 
> Some caps from more cinema material:
> 
> View attachment 3224108
> View attachment 3224111
> View attachment 3224109
> View attachment 3224112
> 
> View attachment 3224113


----------



## rjyap

abaintor said:


> Madvr is a great piece of software but I don't see the point : no software solution (including madvr) is able to decode dolby vision/hdr10+ dynamic metadata, so it would be usefull for non dolby vision content or if you want to replace dolby vision data by custom tone mapping
> Besides you need a probe to create the 3dlut ?


Still useful for non dolby vision 4K HDR disc or source. I got a i1 Pro spectrometer and i1 Display Pro colorimeter. Would try to generate 3D LUT for madVR and PC games using reShade.


----------



## zoomx2

For the price of this unit I can’t expect any more. I’m super happy with all pictures/videos I saw so far. If firmware update available in the future allows more setting adjustments just bonus for me. Thanks for sharing your thoughts with everyone.


----------



## DeanM3

All distributors I spoke to said they would test all units and enable English menus so that is not a surprise that they are arriving this way. No projector is perfect but the T1 at this point seems like an unbelievable value. We can nickpick things all day long but for 99% of us it’s going to be hard to find anything better at the moment.


----------



## Kev1000000

What's the input lag like in non-game mode?


----------



## GaeIta80

Kev1000000 said:


> What's the input lag like in non-game mode?


A seller on Alibaba told me 50-100ms without Game Mode...not sure how reliable it is tough

@lattiboy It would be very interesting how gaming works with a Series X running DV as default video setting (in terms of brightness/lag). Is Xiaomi C2 Game Mode less dark than T1?


----------



## jeff9n

Actually I wasn't nitpicking. Just wanted to know if others received their units in similar state. For sure I am glad they tested the projector to avoid RMA hassle. It's definitely the best bang for the buck comparing to VAVA, Hisense and Samsung. With a good color setting, this is one killer projector. 



DeanM3 said:


> All distributors I spoke to said they would test all units and enable English menus so that is not a surprise that they are arriving this way. No projector is perfect but the T1 at this point seems like an unbelievable value. We can nickpick things all day long but for 99% of us it’s going to be hard to find anything better at the moment.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

So is $2800 the going price now for the T1, the one seller I found thats about where it is at. Seems if you get 2 there is a discount, but dont need two lol so unless someone else is in the Tampa Fl area that wants to go in on a double buy with me, looking for the best seller for 1 unit.

I backed the Vava Chroma but with the QC issues, and super super delayed fulfillment I am wanting to get the T1 instead now. Plus I just recently started to watch DV content, and now I really want that on the projector.


----------



## jeff9n

Fengmi T1 is bigger and heavier than my Xiaomi 1S 4K. It's also quieter and brighter. The colors really pop with the wow factor. The built-in speaker is quite good too. 

No projector is perfect. At the price I paid for, this is one killer projector. If you pair it with
a good screen and surround sound, it will be an awesome home theater.


----------



## tnaik4

Does this projector really has no cms or greyscale settings to calibrate it ?

The T1 seems to tick many boxes, but these setttings are important to have.

In my opinion if the T1 has a laser slider to lower light output and add cms/greyscale settings it ll be a slam dunk, it has everything else.


----------



## Ricoflashback

jeff9n said:


> I just received my Fengmi T1 projector. Here are some photos taken using Standard mode.
> Definitely no reddish tint on the face. I have not modify any setting to the projector. Just fired it
> up and been amazed with the sharpness, brightness and color pop. Actualimages look much
> better than my photography skill or lack of it. LOL
> 
> View attachment 3224085
> View attachment 3224087
> View attachment 3224088
> View attachment 3224089


That looks mah-ve-lous! Great black levels! Got me rethinking, for sure. What screen did you pair it with?

Lastly - - I trust my eyes and quite frankly, from what I've seen - - I'm not that concerned with whatever the black levels/contrast ratio shakes out to. It looks, flat out, fantastic to me.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Is this the same projector? The Panchromatic terminology threw me off.









2790.84US $ 34% OFF|2022 Fengmi Formovie Panchromatic 4k Laser Projector T1 2800 Ansi Lumens Memc Hdr10 Alpd Rgb 3g+64g Dolby Verison Home Theater - Home Theatre System - AliExpress


Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com




www.aliexpress.com


----------



## jeff9n

I use a Silver Ticket 165-inch Matte White cinema screen with 1.1 gain. It is awesome in the dark. But not suitable for daytime viewing. 



Ricoflashback said:


> That looks mah-ve-lous! Great black levels! Got me rethinking, for sure. What screen did you pair it with?


----------



## Ricoflashback

indieke2 said:


> What is a pity, and nothing to do with PQ, I had the Fengmi C 2, and it was splendid in white. Went well with my interior.
> This is not the most elegant. Liked the Xiaomi C 2 les too.


Can you adjust your picture to fit your screen? Maybe it's the pic but it doesn't look square.


----------



## Ricoflashback

jeff9n said:


> I use a Silver Ticket 165-inch Matte White cinema screen with 1.1 gain. It is awesome in the dark. But not suitable for daytime viewing.


Thanks! SilverTicket is an excellent company with great value products. I have a lower end PJ that fits my short throw distance and current setup. It's paired with 100" white matte 1.1 gain, electronic screen over a 75" LCD Sony 900F TV. For our next place, the projector most likely will be in a multipurpose room - living room. I'm thinking that a .4 (Grandview Dynamique) or .6 (SI Zero Edge Pro) will be a great combination for both partial light and lights out viewing with this projector. Again, I'm amazed at the black levels. And quite frankly - - I'm a set it and forget it type of guy. As long as the "out of the box" colors work, I'm a happy camper.


----------



## tnaik4

jeff9n said:


> I use a Silver Ticket 165-inch Matte White cinema screen with 1.1 gain. It is awesome in the dark. But not suitable for daytime viewing.


So ur pairing it with a normal white screen, i have a similar white 1.0-1.1 gain screen and i watch only in complete dark treated room, do u thing the T1 is way too bright for a white screen in the dark? And how is the black level with a white screen?

Thank you


----------



## Brajesh

@jeff9n, great pics, thanks for sharing.



ViciousXUSMC said:


> So is $2800 the going price now for the T1...
> 
> I backed the Vava Chroma but with the QC issues, and super super delayed fulfillment I am wanting to get the T1 instead now. Plus I just recently started to watch DV content, and now I really want that on the projector.


I just eBay'ed off my Chroma and I'm relieved I did. Even going back to my Wemax A300 while I await my T1, the difference in blacks, contrast and sharpness is significant. Using it with HDFury and enjoying DV content, but curious to see how much better native is with T1.

That price BTW is higher than what several of us here have paid. Just PM me or anyone else.


----------



## humax

Ricoflashback said:


> Is this the same projector? The Panchromatic terminology threw me off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2790.84US $ 34% OFF|2022 Fengmi Formovie Panchromatic 4k Laser Projector T1 2800 Ansi Lumens Memc Hdr10 Alpd Rgb 3g+64g Dolby Verison Home Theater - Home Theatre System - AliExpress
> 
> 
> Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.aliexpress.com




Other members got quotes for 2120-2130$ without US shipping a few pages back. You can PM them from what vendor.


----------



## humax

tnaik4 said:


> So ur pairing it with a normal white screen, i have a similar white 1.0-1.1 gain screen and i watch only in complete dark treated room, do u thing the T1 is way too bright for a white screen in the dark? And how is the black level with a white screen?
> 
> Thank you



White screen will still look good due to the 3000:1 native contrast, but 0.6 CLR will look even better with lower black floor. It is all about squeezing every inch of contrast out of this and what your priorities are.


----------



## tnaik4

humax said:


> White screen will still look good due to the 3000:1 native contrast, but 0.6 CLR will look even better with lower black floor. It is all about squeezing every inch of contrast out of this and what your priorities are.


The thing is that i have other long throw projectors, so i need the white screen since 0.6 clr will only work for the T1.


----------



## humax

tnaik4 said:


> The thing is that i have other long throw projectors, so i need the white screen since 0.6 clr will only work for the T1.



The best compromise for someone who wants to use both types of projection (UST and long throw) is a 120" grey 0.6 screen. This has contrast improving properties, but much lower ambient light rejection percentage.


----------



## jeff9n

For me, it is not too bright at all in the dark. The black level seems very respectable when I saw one of the Dolby Vision demo. Of course it is not OLED black. But good enough for my eyes. 



tnaik4 said:


> So ur pairing it with a normal white screen, i have a similar white 1.0-1.1 gain screen and i watch only in complete dark treated room, do u thing the T1 is way too bright for a white screen in the dark? And how is the black level with a white screen?
> 
> Thank you


----------



## jeff9n

humax said:


> Other members got quotes for 2120-2130$ without US shipping a few pages back. You can PM them from what vendor.


I was going to buy Xiaomi Cinema 2. Then I saw a member posted about the special pricing by chatting with Chris Chen on Alibaba. Damn good deal! I am sure she is busy taking orders from other AVS forum members. 😁


----------



## DeanM3

With some effort you can get the T1 with express shipping to the US for under $2400.


----------



## stfidel

Brajesh said:


> @jeff9n, great pics, thanks for sharing.
> 
> 
> I just eBay'ed off my Chroma and I'm relieved I did. Even going back to my Wemax A300 while I await my T1, the difference in blacks, contrast and sharpness is significant. Using it with HDFury and enjoying DV content, but curious to see how much better native is with T1.
> 
> That price BTW is higher than what several of us here have paid. Just PM me or anyone else.



How much were you able to sell your chroma on ebay? if you dont mind


----------



## tnaik4

humax said:


> The best compromise for someone who wants to use both types of projection (UST and long throw) is a 120" grey 0.6 screen. This has contrast improving properties, but much lower ambient light rejection percentage.


Wouldnt an ND filter achieve the same thing ?


----------



## humax

tnaik4 said:


> Wouldnt an ND filter achieve the same thing ?



How exactly would you fit a Hoya ND filter to an UST? This thing is bright and the ALR theoretically cuts off 40% light. ALR is the proper way to go. Check out the following screen:

BlitzWolf® BW-VS3 ALR Black Projector Screen 4K UHD Anti-Light Reflection 100-Inch Ultra Narrow Frame High Brightness Compatible for All UST Laser Projector Beamer for XIAOMI FENGMI WEMAX Sale - Banggood USA-arrival notice-arrival notice

This is probably the most popular ALR in Europe right now. It is also advertised exclusively for USTs. A friend bought it last summer and I helped him put it on the wall. He had just bought an UST and his previous unit was long throw. We tried for fun using the existing long throw model on it. Guess what, it worked like a charm! I suspect other similar quality and price ALRs do the same. It is just a matter of more people reporting it.


----------



## Brajesh

DeanM3 said:


> With some effort you can get the T1 with express shipping to the US for under $2400.


Yep ! Not much of an effort though... two suppliers are around this.


----------



## arsenalfc89

Since some have asked to compare to the Chroma here are some screen shots after calibration. Thanks to @lattiboy for posting his pictures, which gave me a reference so you guys can compare. Please keep in mind PQ is dependent on room, screen, and other factors. I hope to get the T1 and the new Hisense to compare to the Chroma but wifey will think I’m crazy. 🤣🤣


----------



## zoomx2

Sorry, Chroma not even close. Maybe Hisense new model PX1-pro


----------



## Brajesh

Maybe, but again for contrast and blacks, Xiaomi & Fengmi are likely keeping their secret a secret.


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

Glad to hear coil whine seems not to be an issue with this unit.


----------



## lattiboy

arsenalfc89 said:


> Since some have asked to compare to the Chroma here are some screen shots after calibration. Thanks to @lattiboy for posting his pictures, which gave me a reference so you guys can compare. Please keep in mind PQ is dependent on room, screen, and other factors. I hope to get the T1 and the new Hisense to compare to the Chroma but wifey will think I’m crazy. 🤣🤣
> View attachment 3224556
> View attachment 3224557
> View attachment 3224558
> View attachment 3224559


Wow, that seems not great! Like, unbelievably bad for a PJ. Especially a tri laser! Not doubting you, but other reviews I’ve seen do not have anywhere near that lack of color


----------



## arsenalfc89

LOL apologies, I thought something looked off. The earlier pictures where a user error on my end with the Apple TV. Attached are the appropriate pics. This is SDR and not DV. If you all will like to see the DV version via the HDFURY I can post that as well. I just prefer SDR as HDR on PJ don’t impress me.


----------



## arsenalfc89

Okay more from the Chroma. Quick question, are there any coupon codes for the T1?


----------



## Adamgoodapp

For those who can't be bothered to go back, here are the side by side of the Chroma VS T1. Thanks @arsenalfc89 and @*lattiboy.
















*


----------



## GaeIta80

Adamgoodapp said:


> For those who can't be bothered to go back, here are the side by side of the Chroma VS T1. Thanks @arsenalfc89 and @*lattiboy.
> 
> View attachment 3224636
> 
> View attachment 3224637
> *


3 - 0 for T1, hands down but it's DV (T1) vs SDR (CHROMA)...not a fair fight I guess


----------



## GaeIta80

arsenalfc89 said:


> Okay more from the Chroma. Quick question, are there any coupon codes for the T1?
> View attachment 3224618
> View attachment 3224619


Hey there, Greg posted this code for Bangood check out *BGFMT1*


----------



## GaeIta80

arsenalfc89 said:


> LOL apologies, I thought something looked off. The earlier pictures where a user error on my end with the Apple TV. Attached are the appropriate pics. This is SDR and not DV. If you all will like to see the DV version via the HDFURY I can post that as well. I just prefer SDR as HDR on PJ don’t impress me.
> View attachment 3224586
> View attachment 3224584
> View attachment 3224607


Thanks! Could you post the DV version for a fair like for like match with the T1?


----------



## esegan

[ЦИТАТА="lattiboy, сообщение: 61350952, участник: 7597712"]
Вы должны купить его и сделать это! Мне не платят за просмотр, и 90% людей будут использовать готовые пресеты. Кроме того, контент Dolby Vision не имеет элементов управления оттенками или цветами.
[/ЦИТАТА]
Извините, но я не понимаю, чем я вас обидел? Это не профессиональная калибровка, а обычная на глаз.
90% не будут выполнять профессиональную калибровку, но многие попытаются улучшить цвета с помощью пользовательских общих настроек RGB, если таковые имеются, а также настроить яркость и контрастность для пользовательских белых и черных видео.
Действительно, в режиме DV проектор не имеет пользовательских настроек RGB, а только заводские настройки?








Я был бы рад купить быстрее, чем T1, но китайский продавец, без больших таможенных сборов в моей стране, может отправить меня после китайских праздников после 10 февраля, а проектор прибудет только в марте.


----------



## esegan

jeff9n said:


> I just received my Fengmi T1 projector. Here are some photos taken using Standard mode.


Your ceiling glows like a New Year's garland, as the ceiling and walls are very close. Have you thought about darkening at least a little the ceiling near the screen for less light and better contrast?


----------



## tnaik4

GaeIta80 said:


> 3 - 0 for T1, hands down but it's DV (T1) vs SDR (CHROMA)...not a fair fight I guess


It looks like its mainly a calibration or setting issue, the chroma can do more than 100% bt2020 so there is absolutely no reason colors to be muted.


----------



## abaintor

Adamgoodapp said:


> For those who can't be bothered to go back, here are the side by side of the Chroma VS T1. Thanks @arsenalfc89 and @*lattiboy.*


Thank you for the comparison. The colors of the T1 are vibrant and pop right into the eye, very impressive
As others said, the skin tone suffer from a red tint though, but I think I could live with that.
I raised the saturation of my xiaomi 1S 4K to get stronger colors but it is not satisfying, and I believe that the Xiaomi C2 won"t do enough also.
Hisense announced a 8K model and trilaser at CES but at 15K$, I don't see any other upcoming and affordable model


----------



## humax

abaintor said:


> Hisense announced a 8K model and trilaser at CES but at 15K$, I don't see any other upcoming and affordable model



This seems to be a 4000 lumens 8K pixel-shifter. Since their 4K tri-laser claims 1500:1 contrast, I shudder to think how much the contrast will be on that one. Still, 8K 120hz sounds cool though.


----------



## DeanM3

For those that have a T1, any feedback on rainbow effect and how that compares to the single laser modes (C2, 1S, etc). Does the rgb laser reduce the rainbow effect?


----------



## humax

DeanM3 said:


> Does the rgb laser reduce the rainbow effect?



In theory yes, RGB laser minimizes RE, but I believe you will need something like an RGB-3 chip laser design in order to completely eliminate it. I doubt we will see something like that on a consumer level or at a reasonable price.


----------



## arsenalfc89

tnaik4 said:


> It looks like its mainly a calibration or setting issue, the chroma can do more than 100% bt2020 so there is absolutely no reason colors to be muted.


Yes this is true. The T1 you’re seeing I believe is using a more vivid setting so things pop. In reality colors don’t pop like that but I can switch the Chroma to it’s vivid setting for comparison. Also note that the HD movies are in P3 and if you push BT2020 it gets over saturated hence you see a lot of red push. This is why calibration is very crucial with these triple lasers. A calibrated T1 should look great.


----------



## Brajesh

I didn't calibrate my Chroma when I had it, but did test with and w/o HDFury with HDR and DV content and felt it had noticeably richer colors than my Wemax A300. Recall being pretty wowed initially when I added HDFury and played the Dolby DV Amaze trailer. Blacks were more grayish than A300's. It's a good PJ, but in comparison to Xiaomi/Fengmi/Wemax, no.


----------



## arsenalfc89

Brajesh said:


> I didn't calibrate my Chroma when I had it, but did test with and w/o HDFury with HDR and DV content and felt it had noticeably richer colors than my Wemax A300. Recall being pretty wowed initially when I added HDFury and played the Dolby DV Amaze trailer. Blacks were more grayish than A300's. It's a good PJ, but in comparison to Xiaomi/Fengmi/Wemax, no.


Left is Vava Chroma (Day time, Vivid, SDR). Right is OLED. @Brajesh is right in that it gets VERY vivid and the colors can pop like crazy but I tone it way down as it can be a bit much 🤣. @Adamgoodapp can maybe put up the side by side with the T1 lol.


----------



## arsenalfc89

GaeIta80 said:


> Thanks! Could you post the DV version for a fair like for like match with the T1?


I can later tonight.


----------



## Ricoflashback

tnaik4 said:


> It looks like its mainly a calibration or setting issue, the chroma can do more than 100% bt2020 so there is absolutely no reason colors to be muted.


Note the lack of shadow detail and gas/mist with the Chroma. And yes, the colors look off. From everything I’ve read and seen on the threads, the Vava Chroma is not in the same league as the Xiaomi Cinema 2 or the Fengmi T1. But that’s only a perceived observation as I don‘t have either PJ.

The lack of or limited Color Management System on the Fengmi is a concern but the blacks I’ve seen with pics are closer to JVC level and far superior to any DLP on the market. That includes high end BenQ PJ’s. Gone is the gas/mist effect.

I’d rather have fabulous “out of the box” colors than a projector that has to be calibrated from the get-go. Kinda like buying a new car and having to get a tune-up and wheel alignment immediately after driving it off the lot. Kinda kills the buzz. So if I can tweak the T1 (SDR and HDR) to my personal taste - that would satisfy me and I bet a lot of other folks.


----------



## whiskthecat

Any word on focus uniformity? I guess since no one has mentioned it, it must not be an issue?


----------



## jeff9n

Your comment cracks me up. The contrast looks so good in person. Thus I never consider to darken the room. I will be evicted for painting the family room dark. LOL!



















esegan said:


> Your ceiling glows like a New Year's garland, as the ceiling and walls are very close. Have you thought about darkening at least a little the ceiling near the screen for less light and better contrast?
> View attachment 3224652


----------



## tnaik4

Ricoflashback said:


> Note the lack of shadow detail and gas/mist with the Chroma. And yes, the colors look off. From everything I’ve read and seen on the threads, the Vava Chroma is not in the same league as the Xiaomi Cinema 2 or the Fengmi T1. But that’s only a perceived observation as I don‘t have either PJ.
> 
> The lack of or limited Color Management System on the Fengmi is a concern but the blacks I’ve seen with pics are closer to JVC level and far superior to any DLP on the market. That includes high end BenQ PJ’s. Gone is the gas/mist effect.
> 
> I’d rather have fabulous “out of the box” colors than a projector that has to be calibrated from the get-go. Kinda like buying a new car and having to get a tune-up and wheel alignment immediately after driving it off the lot. Kinda kills the buzz. So if I can tweak the T1 (SDR and HDR) to my personal taste - that would satisfy me and I bet a lot of other folks.


True, the lack of cms is concern, at least rgb gains and offset would be of great use, a 3dlut would fix it easily but not everyone can do a 3dlut.
I mainly use madVR for all my movie watching so tone mapping will be top notch, add to that 3dlut and it ll be insanly good.
I just wish they add laser slider so u can kower light output if a user dont need all that light inna dedicated space.
It looks like they nailed many many things with the T1 and dropped the ball by not including some useful settings, maybe that can be added via firmware update later.


----------



## whiskthecat

jeff9n said:


> Your comment cracks me up. The contrast looks so good in person. Thus I never consider to darken the room. I will be evicted for painting the family room dark. LOL!


I think the issue here (if you can call it that) is that the projector is throwing at such an extreme angle a lot of the light wants to bounce right off the screen and onto the ceiling. A UST screen should resolve this since it will force the light to bounce towards your eyes. If it doesn't bother you though then... free ambilight, lol.


----------



## Ricoflashback

jeff9n said:


> Your comment cracks me up. The contrast looks so good in person. Thus I never consider to darken the room. I will be evicted for painting the family room dark. LOL!
> 
> View attachment 3224787
> View attachment 3224788


Is that your TCL TV? Looks great!


----------



## Tanizhq

Contacted Chris Chen, the price for shipping seems to have gone way up, $200+ to the UK. Said it was priced wrong earlier in Jan which is why people got it for $120 to the US.

Waiting for a review from Gregory to place the order, the overly red hue is the main point of concern for me.


----------



## Ricoflashback

What’s the height of the Fengmi T1 projector? Lastly, from the top of the projector, how far is it to the very bottom of the image for a 100” screen? I’m trying to figure if my cabinet height will work with my ceiling height for a 100” screen or maybe a larger screen. Inches would be great but I’ll convert the metric system. Why the U.S. doesn‘t use the metric system is strange but very Yankee.


----------



## GaeIta80

New head to head, T1 vs A300









Quick Compare - Formovie T1 vs Fengmi A300


A300 was Fengmi Flagship model.How does it compared to the latest Tri-laser T1? Firstly the A300 Then the T1 Finally the compare video T1 seems has very good color performance, but in some cases the color accuracy is not so good (over reddish). The sharpness of T1 seems not affected by tri-laser...




nothingbutlabel.com





Thoughts?


----------



## Tanizhq

GaeIta80 said:


> New head to head, T1 vs A300
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick Compare - Formovie T1 vs Fengmi A300
> 
> 
> A300 was Fengmi Flagship model.How does it compared to the latest Tri-laser T1? Firstly the A300 Then the T1 Finally the compare video T1 seems has very good color performance, but in some cases the color accuracy is not so good (over reddish). The sharpness of T1 seems not affected by tri-laser...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nothingbutlabel.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts?


They seem to say the T1 has the red issues aswell, damn its such a risk ordering it right now


----------



## Ricoflashback

Tanizhq said:


> They seem to say the T1 has the red issues aswell, damn its such a risk ordering it right now


Yes - but I'm not sure if that's just SDR, HDR or both. There are a lot of "picture option" settings with the T1, so I suspect it has more to do with HDR and whatever tone mapping the Fengmi is doing. Still - - a stone cold, beautiful picture. Like another poster said - - maybe a firmware update can provide a fix or other custom functionality? It seems like this wouldn't be that hard.


----------



## Tanizhq

Ricoflashback said:


> Yes - but I'm not sure if that's just SDR, HDR or both. There are a lot of "picture option" settings with the T1, so I suspect it has more to do with HDR and whatever tone mapping the Fengmi is doing. Still - - a stone cold, beautiful picture. Like another poster said - - maybe a firmware update can provide a fix or other custom functionality? It seems like this wouldn't be that hard.


The issue also is that I am not sure if those issues are exaggerated in photos and when watching it might be far more natural looking.


----------



## tnaik4

Tanizhq said:


> They seem to say the T1 has the red issues aswell, damn its such a risk ordering it right now


I completely agree, if it had a cms option than the red push can be completely fixed, i dont understand how such a great unit dont have cms setting in it.


----------



## DeanM3

I’m not at all worried about the color issue, I use the newest Apple TV 4K which does a pretty good job at balancing the colors by using your iPhones camera sensors. I’m guessing it should be able to compensate for any T1 color push directly from the source.


----------



## Tanizhq

DeanM3 said:


> I’m not at all worried about the color issue, I use the newest Apple TV 4K which does a pretty good job at balancing the colors by using your iPhones camera sensors. I’m guessing it should be able to compensate for any T1 color push directly from the source.


Does this work with a projector? I tried it with my current one which requires you to put it right against the screen which isnt possible ofcourse.


----------



## DeanM3

Tanizhq said:


> Does this work with a projector? I tried it with my current one which requires you to put it right against the screen which isnt possible ofcourse.


Worked well with my Xiaomi UST. I simply push the projector closer to the screen to produce around a 75” image, disable the IR sensor that turns off the laser, and then move the iPhone around until it detects the pattern. Made a nice difference in my current setup.


----------



## [email protected]

GaeIta80 said:


> New head to head, T1 vs A300
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick Compare - Formovie T1 vs Fengmi A300
> 
> 
> A300 was Fengmi Flagship model.How does it compared to the latest Tri-laser T1? Firstly the A300 Then the T1 Finally the compare video T1 seems has very good color performance, but in some cases the color accuracy is not so good (over reddish). The sharpness of T1 seems not affected by tri-laser...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nothingbutlabel.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts?


There is no mention of Dolby Vision in their skimpy review, which is a huge plus for the T1. HDR tone mapping is a huge issue for many/most projectors. DV makes it a moot point. You can see the impact in the sample video.


----------



## Tanizhq

By the way, anyone have any good TV Cabinet recommendations for this. Seems most are 42cm deep, but the projector is 35cm on its own, no way the Sonos Arc fits on the cabinet too.
Appreciate any help


----------



## humax

Tanizhq said:


> By the way, anyone have any good TV Cabinet recommendations for this. Seems most are 42cm deep, but the projector is 35cm on its own, no way the Sonos Arc fits on the cabinet too.
> Appreciate any help



Fengmi has also released the following with the projector. Don' t know, if it works for you in any way.

Fengmi Laser Tv Telescopic Pan Tilt Zoom Platform T1 Ust Projector Stand Projector Stand Price Ust Cabinet - Buy Ust Projector Stand,Ust Cabinet,Projector Stand Price Product on Alibaba.com


----------



## Tanizhq

humax said:


> Fengmi has also released the following with the projector. Don' t know, if it works for you in any way.
> 
> Fengmi Laser Tv Telescopic Pan Tilt Zoom Platform T1 Ust Projector Stand Projector Stand Price Ust Cabinet - Buy Ust Projector Stand,Ust Cabinet,Projector Stand Price Product on Alibaba.com


I think something like this would actually make it harder to fit a soundbar infront of the projector haha
Just need a recommendation for a deep TV cabinet, all of the IKEA ones are 42cm


----------



## GaeIta80

Tanizhq said:


> I think something like this would actually make it harder to fit a soundbar infront of the projector haha
> Just need a recommendation for a deep TV cabinet, all of the IKEA ones are 42cm


In front yes, but I am considering wall mounted,, above the cabinet...it could work with the 35cm needed for a 120' image..


----------



## Tanizhq

GaeIta80 said:


> In front yes, but I am considering wall mounted,, above the cabinet...it could work with the 35cm needed for a 120' image..


Ah unfortunately I cant wall mount, and honestly it would look so out of place with the brown wood.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Tanizhq said:


> Ah unfortunately I cant wall mount, and honestly it would look so out of place with the brown wood.


That’s the biggest difficulty with a UST projector. Limited space for a sound bar and zero space for a center speaker. And of course, depending on the country you live in - the availability of choices. 

Since my UST will be in a multipurpose, living room, I wanted something that looks aesthetically pleasing but is also functional. I’ll end up getting this cabinet from Furnitech where my large center speaker will fit in the center. Not as high as I’d like but I know there are always compromises. The nice benefit of this cabinet is that the slats open wide while watching and then close when you’re done, concealing your center speaker or soundbar.






82


AVAILABLE TO SHIP JANUARY 20TH 82 inch contemporary rustic TV stand for flat screen and audio video installations. Features: American red oak veneer case with a warm honey finish and 4 solid wood slatted sliding doors that conceal 4 equipment compartments, 2 storage drawers with ¾ extension...




www.furnitech.com


----------



## humax

I finally made my own UST projection cabinet!! - YouTube 

One could always try DIY solutions just like my fellow countryman did in order to meet all his needs.


----------



## lattiboy

At this point, I have probably used the T1 more than anyone on earth outside the company itself. Pandemic, sick dog, and a big backlog of movies and TV shows have probably had me put 30 hours of viewing on this bad boy. All kinds of formats and resolutions and HDR protocols from multiple streaming services.

I wholeheartedly give my recommendation for a buy as I’ve simply never seen a better picture on a projector. The colors are nothing short of incredible, the contrast is punchy, and only in the very darkest scenes do you remember this is not a very high end television. Even then, it outperforms my older but quite well regarded Sony X900E in every meaningful metric.


Dolby Vision is the only real issue for the red push issue. Most the stuff I watched it was very minor, and in a few instances where it wasn’t I simply turned off Dolby Vision on my Roku and ran 4K UHD.

Outside of DV there are individual RGB gain settings and a “tone” setting that acts as tint. Along with the color shift in the “view” modes you should be able to arrive at a good balance for pretty much anything. I’m still in the process of doing this, but to be frank “view” mode, custom color with defaults and “standard” color temperature aren’t bad at all. Brightness and contrast bumped a little for shadow detail.

a few more screenshots with my 120” .6 Hisense CLR screen, many taken in the brightest hours of the day:


----------



## Tanizhq

Ricoflashback said:


> That’s the biggest difficulty with a UST projector. Limited space for a sound bar and zero space for a center speaker. And of course, depending on the country you live in - the availability of choices.
> 
> Since my UST will be in a multipurpose, living room, I wanted something that looks aesthetically pleasing but is also functional. I’ll end up getting this cabinet from Furnitech where my large center speaker will fit in the center. Not as high as I’d like but I know there are always compromises. The nice benefit of this cabinet is that the slats open wide while watching and then close when you’re done, concealing your center speaker or soundbar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 82
> 
> 
> AVAILABLE TO SHIP JANUARY 20TH 82 inch contemporary rustic TV stand for flat screen and audio video installations. Features: American red oak veneer case with a warm honey finish and 4 solid wood slatted sliding doors that conceal 4 equipment compartments, 2 storage drawers with ¾ extension...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.furnitech.com


Wow that looks amazing, however that is 2/3rds the cost of the projector, a bit out of my range haha.
Just wish there was an IKEA Cabinet but 5-10cm deeper


----------



## Tanizhq

lattiboy said:


> At this point, I have probably used the T1 more than anyone on earth outside the company itself. Pandemic, sick dog, and a big backlog of movies and TV shows have probably had me put 30 hours of viewing on this bad boy. All kinds of formats and resolutions and HDR protocols from multiple streaming services.
> 
> I wholeheartedly give my recommendation for a buy as I’ve simply never seen a better picture on a projector. The colors are nothing short of incredible, the contrast is punchy, and only in the very darkest scenes do you remember this is not a very high end television. Even then, it outperforms my older but quite well regarded Sony X900E in every meaningful metric.
> 
> 
> Dolby Vision is the only real issue for the red push issue. Most the stuff I watched it was very minor, and in a few instances where it wasn’t I simply turned off Dolby Vision on my Roku and ran 4K UHD.
> 
> Outside of DV there are individual RGB gain settings and a “tone” setting that acts as tint. Along with the color shift in the “view” modes you should be able to arrive at a good balance for pretty much anything. I’m still in the process of doing this, but to be frank “view” mode, custom color with defaults and “standard” color temperature aren’t bad at all. Brightness and contrast bumped a little for shadow detail.
> 
> a few more screenshots with my 120” .6 Hisense CLR screen, many taken in the brightest hours of the day:
> 
> View attachment 3224964
> 
> View attachment 3224963
> 
> View attachment 3224966
> 
> View attachment 3224967
> 
> View attachment 3224965


My goodness, the blacks in that Blade Runner 2049 screenshot are amazing


----------



## Ricoflashback

Tanizhq said:


> Wow that looks amazing, however that is 2/3rds the cost of the projector, a bit out of my range haha.
> Just wish there was an IKEA Cabinet but 5-10cm deeper


Yes, I know. But honestly - cheaper than some of the cabinets out there. Especially the ridiculously priced UST special designed units. Double the cost of the Furnitech cabinet. Plus - it will be in our living room so it’s not like I can hide a different piece in my basement or theater room. 

Research online by depth and what you need to comfortably fit your sound bar. In my case, I’m also housing my AVR, large center speaker and other components.


----------



## Brajesh

GaeIta80 said:


> New head to head, T1 vs A300
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick Compare - Formovie T1 vs Fengmi A300
> 
> 
> A300 was Fengmi Flagship model.How does it compared to the latest Tri-laser T1? Firstly the A300 Then the T1 Finally the compare video T1 seems has very good color performance, but in some cases the color accuracy is not so good (over reddish). The sharpness of T1 seems not affected by tri-laser...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nothingbutlabel.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts?


Hard to say not knowing what settings they're using, source player, etc. I'm using my A300 now with HDFury and PQ is just gorgeous. My recent VAVA Chroma was more colorful, unnaturally so it felt at times, and color accuracy was off. I have a T1 coming and will also compare vs. my A300. T1 I'm hoping (and by the looks of all the great screenshots posted by @lattiboy and others here) will be significantly better. It better be, or I may just keep my A300 as it supports 3D . If T1 is noticeably better, then keeping it and getting a cheap 1080p DLP w/3D for 3D content.


----------



## mirkmito

But are you testing the DVD with bluray, oppo203 / 205 (play with hdd) or streaming? 
True DV is only the dual layer of bluray / rips 1:1


----------



## Brajesh

Me? True DV UHD disc rips using Zidoo Z9X, but not true DV as HDFury is a hack .


----------



## slickrock

DeanM3 said:


> For those that have a T1, any feedback on rainbow effect and how that compares to the single laser modes (C2, 1S, etc). Does the rgb laser reduce the rainbow effect?


I second this request. What effect does the T1 and those of its ilk have with RBE? I'm auditioning the L9G and find the RBE more of problem than loss of comparative contrast to my old long-throw RS10. Really, really, hoping the T1 has minimal/negligible perceptible RBE to other RBG single-DLP competitors.


----------



## lattiboy

slickrock said:


> I second this request. What effect does the T1 and those of its ilk have with RBE? I'm auditioning the L9G and find the RBE more of problem than loss of comparative contrast to my old long-throw RS10. Really, really, hoping the T1 has minimal/negligible perceptible RBE to other RBG single-DLP competitors.


I have been sensitive to RBE since my first PJ. I swapped out an a Optoma for a Vivitek because the 6x color wheel finally got rid of it for me. I have not seen a single shred of RBE on any of the now 5 laser PJs I’ve used. Single, dual, and triple lasers. The T1 hasn’t had any, but it does have a little speckle. Not at all bothersome, but if you get a solid background of red orange or purple you will see a little bit of haze.

I wonder if the color wheel speed has eliminated this with laser projectors? It seems to have for me in the ones I have tried. Bomaker a Polaris 4K, Hisense L5F, LG HU810P, and the C2 and T1.


----------



## lattiboy

I’m watching Archive 81 on Netflix and it’s a very dark show with a dark skinned lead actor. Kind of a torture test for black level and shadow detail, and this PJ in bright mode Dolby Vision and Night mode looks great to my eye. Much more cinematic and with more punch than my X900E (which I’ve watched a few episodes on too)

Notice the difference in blacks from his face to his hair to his coat to his phone:


----------



## loco_motion

Tanizhq said:


> Wow that looks amazing, however that is 2/3rds the cost of the projector, a bit out of my range haha.
> Just wish there was an IKEA Cabinet but 5-10cm deeper


The Ikea Besta line comes in 40cm and 20 cm deep "boxes". I am planning to join a few of them side by side to come up with the right configuration. To increase the depth I am thinking of placing 20 and 40 cm pieces front and back to create a 60cm platform. Would that solve your problem?

I have existing Ikea Besta cabinets so trying to come up with a matching TV cabinet to fit a center speaker, the Fengmi T1 and project 120 inches. In my case I have a large Revel C205 which is::

Height 7.9" (20 cm)
Width 21" (53.2 cm)
Depth 11.5" (29.2 cm)

I would prefer to have the speaker above and the T1 and closer to the wall but I think it will block the image. I may have to put it below the T1 in the cabinet near the floor and angle it up. Has anyone tried placing the center near the floor with success?


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

Tanizhq said:


> Wow that looks amazing, however that is 2/3rds the cost of the projector, a bit out of my range haha.
> Just wish there was an IKEA Cabinet but 5-10cm deeper


Have you looked into the Ikea kitchen cabinets? They have many sizes available that are 60cm deep.


----------



## loco_motion

Thank you for all the helpful info here in this forum. I took the plunge and ordered the T1 as my first UST projector. I plan to get the VAVA VA-LT030 120 inch ALR screen which is around USD900. I reached out to VAVA and they advised that the screen material is the same as the VA-LTS005 100inch screen and they sent me the attached pdf info on the 120 inch screen.

I plan to generally use the projector for movies with low light with the curtains drawn or with lights off at night. I have existing cabinets above and on one side. I have attached an image of roughly my intended setup where the black rectangles are roughly where the screen would be. Any thoughts if this is a good choice of projector screen for my situation or have another suggestion? Thanks!


----------



## slickrock

lattiboy said:


> I have been sensitive to RBE since my first PJ. I swapped out an a Optoma for a Vivitek because the 6x color wheel finally got rid of it for me. I have not seen a single shred of RBE on any of the now 5 laser PJs I’ve used. Single, dual, and triple lasers. The T1 hasn’t had any, but it does have a little speckle. Not at all bothersome, but if you get a solid background of red orange or purple you will see a little bit of haze.
> 
> I wonder if the color wheel speed has eliminated this with laser projectors? It seems to have for me in the ones I have tried. Bomaker a Polaris 4K, Hisense L5F, LG HU810P, and the C2 and T1.


Since the T1 is full RGB lasers, there is no "wheel" in the unit, phospor, color, or otherwise. Since this is a single DMD, the mirrors have to swizzle for each chroma laser timing interval. I'm finding the Hisense L9G chroma timing not fast enough to suppress the RBE - sorta like the old DLP color wheels a decade ago. Perhaps the phosphor wheels in more recent units subdue this, but having naked RGB lasers in the L9G, RBE is present (at least to my eyes). Now while I've heard the PX1-Pro has addressed this mostly, I'm hoping for full RGB of the T1, that this is a non-issue. Glad that you don't see any effect. For others with the this unit in hand, please do report your findings.


----------



## GaeIta80

lattiboy said:


> I’m watching Archive 81 on Netflix and it’s a very dark show with a dark skinned lead actor. Kind of a torture test for black level and shadow detail, and this PJ in bright mode Dolby Vision and Night mode looks great to my eye. Much more cinematic and with more punch than my X900E (which I’ve watched a few episodes on too)
> 
> Notice the difference in blacks from his face to his hair to his coat to his phone:
> 
> View attachment 3225042
> 
> View attachment 3225043
> 
> View attachment 3225044


Blacks are looking very deep indeed, nice to see it overperforms a good led TV.

I thought DV "dark" was the most accurate but seems like "bright" is a good option as well now.

Looks like with a firmware upgrade, fixing the DV red tint, speckle and the dark Game Mode, this projector could lead the way for a while.

Com'n Fengmi!


----------



## mirkmito

Ma stai testando il DV con bluray, oppo203/205 o streaming?
True DV è solo il doppio strato di 1:1 bluray/rip 1:1


Brajesh said:


> Me? True DV UHD disc rips using Zidoo Z9X, but not true DV as HDFury is a hack .


The dual layer DV plays it only oppo203 / 205 and pioneer lx500 / 800 with jailbreak .... zidoo ... dune only plays one layer ... so it would take a real test to understand if the red tone problem persists


----------



## jakechoy

GaeIta80 said:


> Blacks are looking very deep indeed, nice to see it overperforms a good led TV.
> 
> I thought DV "dark" was the most accurate but seems like "bright" is a good option as well now.
> 
> Looks like with a firmware upgrade, fixing the DV red tint and the dark Game Mode, this projector could lead the way for a while.
> 
> Com'n Fengmi!


I switch between the two depending on content and ambient light (night vs daytime). Major differences in detail I must say.


----------



## GaeIta80

jakechoy said:


> I switch between the two depending on content and ambient light (night vs daytime). Major differences in detail I must say.


Thanks, could you expand on the "details difference" between the 2 modes? Thanks!


----------



## Tanizhq

loco_motion said:


> The Ikea Besta line comes in 40cm and 20 cm deep "boxes". I am planning to join a few of them side by side to come up with the right configuration. To increase the depth I am thinking of placing 20 and 40 cm pieces front and back to create a 60cm platform. Would that solve your problem?
> 
> I have existing Ikea Besta cabinets so trying to come up with a matching TV cabinet to fit a center speaker, the Fengmi T1 and project 120 inches. In my case I have a large Revel C205 which is::
> 
> Height 7.9" (20 cm)
> Width 21" (53.2 cm)
> Depth 11.5" (29.2 cm)
> 
> I would prefer to have the speaker above and the T1 and closer to the wall but I think it will block the image. I may have to put it below the T1 in the cabinet near the floor and angle it up. Has anyone tried placing the center near the floor with success?


I was thinking of getting 2 and stacking them together to get the depth, but it would make the whole cabinet behind unsuable, which isnt ideal either haha


----------



## jakechoy

GaeIta80 said:


> Thanks, could you expand on the "details difference" between the 2 modes? Thanks!


Its really important for UST projectors:

Dolby Vision Bright. *Suitable picture for viewing in a bright room at home*. 
Dolby Vision Dark. *Suitable picture for viewing in a dark room at home*.

So depending on the ambient light, the contrast/brightness might be overblown (hence washing out details) if u use bright mode when u are in a dark/light controlled room.

Hope that makes sense.


----------



## jakechoy

Tanizhq said:


> I was thinking of getting 2 and stacking them together to get the depth, but it would make the whole cabinet behind unsuable, which isnt ideal either haha


I use a coffee table instead as it has the depth. Works perfect.


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

Tanizhq said:


> I was thinking of getting 2 and stacking them together to get the depth, but it would make the whole cabinet behind unsuable, which isnt ideal either haha


While perhaps not as turnkey as the Besta, you can also configure the Kitchen cabinets as a suitable console. They have options that are 60cm deep. Add the legs, doors, top, etc of you liking… lots of options. Even pull out surfaces if you want to keep the projector hidden away when not in use.









METOD Fridge/freezer top cabinet frame, white, 60x60x60 cm - IKEA


METOD Fridge/freezer top cabinet frame, white, 60x60x60 cm. METOD kitchen cabinets for appliances and sinks are built for the task with special reinforcement and proper ventilation to secure safe installations that will hold for many years of use.




www.ikea.com













METOD Fridge/freezer top cabinet frame, white, 60x60x40 cm - IKEA


METOD Fridge/freezer top cabinet frame, white, 60x60x40 cm. METOD kitchen cabinets for appliances and sinks are built for the task with special reinforcement and proper ventilation to secure safe installations that will hold for many years of use.




www.ikea.com


----------



## Tanizhq

Scott Rosenberg said:


> While perhaps not as turnkey as the Besta, you can also configure the Kitchen cabinets as a suitable console. They have options that are 60cm deep. Add the legs, doors, top, etc of you liking… lots of options. Even pull out surfaces if you want to keep the projector hidden away when not in use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> METOD Fridge/freezer top cabinet frame, white, 60x60x60 cm - IKEA
> 
> 
> METOD Fridge/freezer top cabinet frame, white, 60x60x60 cm. METOD kitchen cabinets for appliances and sinks are built for the task with special reinforcement and proper ventilation to secure safe installations that will hold for many years of use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.ikea.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> METOD Fridge/freezer top cabinet frame, white, 60x60x40 cm - IKEA
> 
> 
> METOD Fridge/freezer top cabinet frame, white, 60x60x40 cm. METOD kitchen cabinets for appliances and sinks are built for the task with special reinforcement and proper ventilation to secure safe installations that will hold for many years of use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.ikea.com


Yeah these are very interesting, fully modular and customisable, and could put the shorter one in the middle for the projector while having the soundbar floating in front of it. Thank you for the suggestion


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

Tanizhq said:


> Yeah these are very interesting, fully modular and customisable, and could put the shorter one in the middle for the projector while having the soundbar floating in front of it. Thank you for the suggestion


Do you need the extra depth just to create space between the projector and the wall, or to accommodate deeper components such as amps? If the former, would a besta work for you if the projector was placed on a surface that extended out from the cabinet when in use? Something like a drawer that pulled out? This would give you extra space between the wall beyond the depth of the cabinet when needed. And your soundbar could sit on top of the cabinet.


----------



## tnaik4

lattiboy said:


> At this point, I have probably used the T1 more than anyone on earth outside the company itself. Pandemic, sick dog, and a big backlog of movies and TV shows have probably had me put 30 hours of viewing on this bad boy. All kinds of formats and resolutions and HDR protocols from multiple streaming services.
> 
> I wholeheartedly give my recommendation for a buy as I’ve simply never seen a better picture on a projector. The colors are nothing short of incredible, the contrast is punchy, and only in the very darkest scenes do you remember this is not a very high end television. Even then, it outperforms my older but quite well regarded Sony X900E in every meaningful metric.
> 
> 
> Dolby Vision is the only real issue for the red push issue. Most the stuff I watched it was very minor, and in a few instances where it wasn’t I simply turned off Dolby Vision on my Roku and ran 4K UHD.
> 
> Outside of DV there are individual RGB gain settings and a “tone” setting that acts as tint. Along with the color shift in the “view” modes you should be able to arrive at a good balance for pretty much anything. I’m still in the process of doing this, but to be frank “view” mode, custom color with defaults and “standard” color temperature aren’t bad at all. Brightness and contrast bumped a little for shadow detail.
> 
> a few more screenshots with my 120” .6 Hisense CLR screen, many taken in the brightest hours of the day:
> 
> View attachment 3224964
> 
> View attachment 3224963
> 
> View attachment 3224966
> 
> View attachment 3224967
> 
> View attachment 3224965


The blacks in the Bladruner 2047 movie looks really crushed ? Did u use test pattern to correctly set brightness/contrast ?


----------



## Tanizhq

Wait a sec, is this projector not actually 4K? Saw something which said its 1080p but gets 4K with pixel shifting? 
Could someone explain the difference to me?


----------



## abaintor

Tanizhq said:


> Wait a sec, is this projector not actually 4K? Saw something which said its 1080p but gets 4K with pixel shifting?
> Could someone explain the difference to me?


There is nearly no difference : pixel shifting x4 means that the native matrix is 1080p but it is run and shifted 4 times per image to get 4K. You can see the reviews from this website Passion Home Cinema showing that the difference is imperceptible.


----------



## Brajesh

loco_motion said:


> I plan to get the VAVA VA-LT030 120 inch ALR screen which is around USD900.


I emailed XY screens and they quoted me $1230 shipped for a 150-inch PET Grid with .8 gain. I assume this is a good price, and would be a good match for T1? 120-inch is too small for me.

Edit: Hmm, having second thoughts after seeing this in the screens forum.


----------



## humax

Tanizhq said:


> Wait a sec, is this projector not actually 4K? Saw something which said its 1080p but gets 4K with pixel shifting?
> Could someone explain the difference to me?














Check the image above . This is how all pixel shifting DLPs work. The T1 uses the 0.47" DMD. The 0.66" DMD has higher native resolution, but so far it has not been used by any ALPD projector. If you want native 4K, only Sony and JVC offer it right now at a higher price.


----------



## mirkmito

[CITAZIONE="humax, post: 61356913, membro: 7437992"]
View attachment 3225199



Controlla l'immagine sopra. Ecco come funzionano tutti i DLP con spostamento dei pixel. Il T1 utilizza il DMD da 0,47". Il DMD da 0,66" ha una risoluzione nativa più elevata, ma finora non è stato utilizzato da nessun proiettore ALPD. Se vuoi il 4K nativo, solo Sony e JVC lo offrono in questo momento a un prezzo più alto.
[/CITAZIONE]

Only samsung the premiere lsp7t


----------



## mirkmito

Is it possible to calibrate with a probe, such as XRite i1 Display Pro?


----------



## Tanizhq

abaintor said:


> There is nearly no difference : pixel shifting x4 means that the native matrix is 1080p but it is run and shifted 4 times per image to get 4K. You can see the reviews from this website Passion Home Cinema showing that the difference is imperceptible.


Ah okay, kinda freaked out a bit when I saw that, seems the difference isn't noticeable at all


----------



## humax

abaintor said:


> There is nearly no difference : pixel shifting x4 means that the native matrix is 1080p but it is run and shifted 4 times per image to get 4K. You can see the reviews from this website Passion Home Cinema showing that the difference is imperceptible.



4K DLP projectors | Is it real 4K? (XPR technology explanation) - projectorjunkies

Actually pixel-wise, there seems to be a difference between the 0.47" and the 0.66" DMD, although the 0.47" DMD is sharp enough to make the difference visually minimal. The 0.47" outputs 4,665,600 distinct pixels on screen, while the 0.66" 7,262,584 pixels. Native 4K is 8,294,400 pixels. However, several members have reported that the 0.66" with a great lens can appear sharper than native 4K.

As for the T1, it has a 0.47" DMD with a precision optical block that is why the Xiaomis/Fengmis pass Gregory's sharpness tests and patterns with flying colors. However, I still wonder why ALPD will not use the 0.66 DMD. It should produce interesting results, since it also has higher native contrast than the 0.47".


----------



## humax

Brajesh said:


> I emailed XY screens and they quoted me $1230 shipped for a 150-inch PET Grid with .8 gain. I assume this is a good price, and would be a good match for T1? 120-inch is too small for me.
> 
> Edit: Hmm, having second thoughts after seeing this in the screens forum.



Again, I envy you for living in the States. My quote for shipping the same screen to Greece with taxes was more than 2000$. Anyway, pet grid is the minimum standard material for UST and yes there can be issues with tension and frame rigidity. Only thing you can do is use more springs, but to be honest with you I have yet to see a 150" ALR perfectly tensioned.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Tanizhq said:


> I was thinking of getting 2 and stacking them together to get the depth, but it would make the whole cabinet behind unsuable, which isnt ideal either haha


The coffee table idea is an interesting one. It would certainly have the depth for a soundbar. Not so much for a large center speaker. It also depends on how many other components you have and where you put them. Lots of other choices other than IKEA than would look nicer and still be affordable. If there is a WAF in the equation - the kitchen cabinet choice might not be as favorably looked on.


----------



## Mareleon

Tanizhq said:


> Yeah these are very interesting, fully modular and customisable, and could put the shorter one in the middle for the projector while having the soundbar floating in front of it. Thank you for the suggestion


i put my xiaomi projector in a besta and rebuilt the closet accordingly. To gain depth, I just screwed a real wood panel on top and integrated my vividstorm screen at the same time. Beamer then simply moves out as a drawer when needed. underneath you could also pack a center speaker or, like me, a soundbar directly in front of the screen. quite cheap and I think pretty.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Mareleon said:


> i put my xiaomi projector in a besta and rebuilt the closet accordingly. To gain depth, I just screwed a real wood panel on top and integrated my vividstorm screen at the same time. Beamer then simply moves out as a drawer when needed. underneath you could also pack a center speaker or, like me, a soundbar directly in front of the screen. quite cheap and I think pretty.


That is very nicely done! Looks great. Heck, you could even have some thin, wall art behind the Vividstorm screen and when folks visit, they’d never guess it’s also a movie room. I can see it right now - as you‘re enjoying a wine or drink with guests they ask, “OK - where do we go to watch the movie or game?” You should patent that and sell it. Maybe a partnership with Vividstorm.


----------



## Tanizhq

Mareleon said:


> i put my xiaomi projector in a besta and rebuilt the closet accordingly. To gain depth, I just screwed a real wood panel on top and integrated my vividstorm screen at the same time. Beamer then simply moves out as a drawer when needed. underneath you could also pack a center speaker or, like me, a soundbar directly in front of the screen. quite cheap and I think pretty.


That looks really good but if you saw the size comparison with your projector and the T1, it is really big. So thats why none of the BESTA ones from IKEA would work, all are 42cm depth, can't modify stuff very easily either


----------



## jakechoy

Mareleon said:


> i put my xiaomi projector in a besta and rebuilt the closet accordingly. To gain depth, I just screwed a real wood panel on top and integrated my vividstorm screen at the same time. Beamer then simply moves out as a drawer when needed. underneath you could also pack a center speaker or, like me, a soundbar directly in front of the screen. quite cheap and I think pretty.


that's really awesome..makes me wanna take the leap to vividstorm 100"


----------



## Mareleon

Tanizhq said:


> That looks really good but if you saw the size comparison with your projector and the T1, it is really big. So thats why none of the BESTA ones from IKEA would work, all are 42cm depth, can't modify stuff very easily either


Without basotec, the hush box has internal dimensions of 56x38x18, would be very tight and i would have to remove basotec and the fan from the hush box. I also had the Bomaker Polaris here to test and it fit in well, but it should be a bit smaller than the t1.
And only marginally coil whine is now inaudible and fan noise is only audible when there is silence. without this box, the noise level was unbearable


----------



## Mareleon

Ricoflashback said:


> That is very nicely done! Looks great. Heck, you could even have some thin, wall art behind the Vividstorm screen and when folks visit, they’d never guess it’s also a movie room. I can see it right now - as you‘re enjoying a wine or drink with guests they ask, “OK - where do we go to watch the movie or game?” You should patent that and sell it. Maybe a partnership with Vividstorm.


a wall picture with 180x100 has already been ordered and then there is a led strip all around the attachment for indirect lighting, currently it is only a strip below behind the screen


----------



## Ampro4600

Would anyone dare to guess how the T1, with a Vividstorm 120" screen, would compare to an Epson 9300, in a "normal" living room, with the lights turned off (with a regular screen)?


----------



## Ricoflashback

Mareleon said:


> a wall picture with 180x100 has already been ordered and then there is a led strip all around the attachment for indirect lighting, currently it is only a strip below behind the screen


My solution will be a little different since I will have a fixed frame screen. I'll have some pull down, canvas art - - either a manual roller or electronic over a 100" or 110" screen. Black headrail on top to hide the roller.


----------



## [email protected]

Ricoflashback said:


> That is very nicely done! Looks great. Heck, you could even have some thin, wall art behind the Vividstorm screen and when folks visit, they’d never guess it’s also a movie room. I can see it right now - as you‘re enjoying a wine or drink with guests they ask, “OK - where do we go to watch the movie or game?” You should patent that and sell it. Maybe a partnership with Vividstorm.


Great solution!! Could you share more details of the design? Did you use the TV cabinet or just regular cabinets? How did you do the motorized drawer? This my #1 challenge right now. I will be projecting onto a 120 inch vividstorm screen in front of a 65 inch oled. > love the push button simplicity you have achieved.


----------



## Adamgoodapp

[email protected] said:


> Great solution!! Could you share more details of the design? Did you use the TV cabinet or just regular cabinets? How did you do the motorized drawer? This my #1 challenge right now. I will be projecting onto a 120 inch vividstorm screen in front of a 65 inch oled. > love the push button simplicity you have achieved.


You can use a linear motor to slide out the draw.


----------



## vadom

How is the quality of the lenses? Do you see any CA with white letters on black background?


----------



## humax

Ampro4600 said:


> Would anyone dare to guess how the T1, with a Vividstorm 120" screen, would compare to an Epson 9300, in a "normal" living room, with the lights turned off (with a regular screen)?



Don' t you mean the 9400 or the 9300 is your current model? Anyway, you will have to put them side by side in order to provide a credible answer, but here is a try.

Colors: probably better on the T1 due to tri-laser.

Contrast-black levels: Epson might get a little darker?

Sharpness: AFAIK, Epson has a high quality lens, so a tie maybe?

Overall, when you factor in tri-laser, DV, HDR10+ and the screen-door effect on the Epson, I would go with the T1, but YMMV. I know a guy, who has been buying exclusively DLPs for the past 20 years, but recently got the 9400 and he is very happy with it.


----------



## EvilEuro

mirkmito said:


> Is it possible to calibrate with a probe, such as XRite i1 Display Pro?


I just emailed the Formovie group last night about this very question. This is their reply regarding enabling menus / settings which would make a more thorough calibration process possible.



> About the customization of colors, we will continue to optimize and adjust to make the colors richer and more beautiful. What you mentioned, it is not the only way for us to make colors better. We will also test projectors through other technical means to bring users a good experience.


So doesn't sound like there are plans afoot any time soon to make it so a proper full calibration can be done. I'm sure you'll be able to use your XRite i1 to do what you can with the projector, but you're not going to be able to set a proper grayscale, etc.. 

Total bummer on that front, but they do look really good in the photos that I have seen in this thread.


----------



## Ricoflashback

EvilEuro said:


> I just emailed the Formovie group last night about this very question. This is their reply regarding enabling menus / settings which would make a more thorough calibration process possible.
> 
> 
> 
> So doesn't sound like there are plans afoot any time soon to make it so a proper full calibration can be done. I'm sure you'll be able to use your XRite i1 to do what you can with the projector, but you're not going to be able to set a proper grayscale, etc..
> 
> Total bummer on that front, but they do look really good in the photos that I have seen in this thread.


A simple slider for brightness level would be appreciated. I'm all for the "out of the box" colors and performance. But the ability to tweak a little would be great. It doesn't sound like they are into opening up the Kimono, so to speak, as far as a full calibration goes. At least right now. Maybe someone finds out what's in the secret sauce?


----------



## GaeIta80

@lattiboy as T1 unrivelled guru, could you please post some gaming screenshot (Xbox/SonyPS) in Game Mode vs standard vs HDR/DV?

Thanks a lot!


----------



## tnaik4

Ricoflashback said:


> A simple slider for brightness level would be appreciated. I'm all for the "out of the box" colors and performance. But the ability to tweak a little would be great. It doesn't sound like they are into opening up the Kimono, so to speak, as far as a full calibration goes. At least right now. Maybe someone finds out what's in the secret sauce?


It doesnt even have a brightness/contrast adjustments???


----------



## DeanM3

Crazy how little activity the Xiaomi Cinema 2 thread has been getting after the T1 was released. I wonder if we’ll see a Xiaomi branded T1 shortly.


----------



## humax

DeanM3 said:


> Crazy how little activity the Xiaomi Cinema 2 thread has been getting after the T1 was released. I wonder if we’ll see a Xiaomi branded T1 shortly.



Bad marketing move, releasing this in less than two months after the C2. If they had waited for six months, they would not be sabotaging each other and the C2 would be sold out as the first DV projector. But they probably don't care much and are already designing the new model with some extra feature again. Both companies are basically Appotronics's poster-boys and they get to release their reference designs and prototypes first along with Wemax. I would not be surprised if they developed an 8K pixel-shifter in a couple of years at a much lower price than the 15000$ Hisense.


----------



## spocky12

Ricoflashback said:


> A simple slider for brightness level would be appreciated. I'm all for the "out of the box" colors and performance. But the ability to tweak a little would be great. It doesn't sound like they are into opening up the Kimono, so to speak, as far as a full calibration goes. At least right now. Maybe someone finds out what's in the secret sauce?


If it's like their other projectors, there's an SQLite database used for detailed color calibration, but it can't be modified without root access (and you probably wouldn't want to modify it by hand anyways, so a tool should be developed too).
For higher level tweaking, let's hope their display lib is not system-only and can be used by third party apps.


----------



## juic-E-juice

spocky12 said:


> If it's like their other projectors, there's an SQLite database used for detailed color calibration, but it can't be modified without root access (and you probably wouldn't want to modify it by hand anyways, so a tool should be developed too).
> For higher level tweaking, let's hope their display lib is not system-only and can be used by third party apps.


Spocky12, do you have any idea if the application of your tools may reduce input lag for gaming on this unit. This is the one thing holding me back.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

DeanM3 said:


> Crazy how little activity the Xiaomi Cinema 2 thread has been getting after the T1 was released. I wonder if we’ll see a Xiaomi branded T1 shortly.


From what I could tell in this thread they are very similar. The pictures I saw comparing the two I liked the color on the T1 more, but I think there were a few nods to the C2 as well making it very much a personal preference.

I wish the T1 was black not white with its housing, wish we had a confirmed game mode, and I think the C2 is using the ALDP 4.0 tech like the vava chorma but I am not sure what that translates into as far as real life gains vs the older tech.


----------



## Ricoflashback

spocky12 said:


> If it's like their other projectors, there's an SQLite database used for detailed color calibration, but it can't be modified without root access (and you probably wouldn't want to modify it by hand anyways, so a tool should be developed too).
> For higher level tweaking, let's hope their display lib is not system-only and can be used by third party apps.


I can see it now. Let me root (brick) my Fengmi T1 and see what will be covered. While it’s on its way to China, I’ll be watching TV in our bedroom. A month or two later, maybe I’ll get my PJ back. I’m not as technically inclined to calibrate my projector and learn how to do it correctly. I’d just like to be able to adjust the picture like a BenQ PJ. Some basic stuff and trust the out of the box colors.

I was able to change the battery in my watch with a special tool. But then, I lost a little screw and had to tape the battery in. Not very elegant. I let the jeweler install my latest battery. No word of he used tape, too, or found another teeny screw to replace the original. Yeah - you can be assured that I won’t be opening up any projector.


----------



## Ricoflashback

ViciousXUSMC said:


> From what I could tell in this thread they are very similar. The pictures I saw comparing the two I liked the color on the T1 more, but I think there were a few nods to the C2 as well making it very much a personal preference.
> 
> I wish the T1 was black not white with its housing, wish we had a confirmed game mode, and I think the C2 is using the ALDP 4.0 tech like the vava chorma but I am not sure what that translates into as far as real life gains vs the older tech.


??? Every picture I see the Fengmi T1 is a dark color. What are you referring to as white?


----------



## humax

ViciousXUSMC said:


> the C2 is using the ALDP 4.0 tech like the vava chorma but I am not sure what that translates into as far as real life gains vs the older tech.


So far ALPD 4.0 is a terminology used for RGB lasers. C2 is ALPD RB+, which is a variation of the classic blue laser+color wheel ALPD 3.0 design (red laser added).


----------



## lattiboy

A few more showing off daytime contrast. There’s also a windowed door to the left of the screen:

120” .6 Hisense CLR screen:


----------



## Ricoflashback

humax said:


> Don' t you mean the 9400 or the 9300 is your current model? Anyway, you will have to put them side by side in order to provide a credible answer, but here is a try.
> 
> Colors: probably better on the T1 due to tri-laser.
> 
> Contrast-black levels: Epson might get a little darker?
> 
> Sharpness: AFAIK, Epson has a high quality lens, so a tie maybe?
> 
> Overall, when you factor in tri-laser, DV, HDR10+ and the screen-door effect on the Epson, I would go with the T1, but YMMV. I know a guy, who has been buying exclusively DLPs for the past 20 years, but recently got the 9400 and he is very happy with it.


I believe the 9300 is the equivalent of the 5050UB and the 9400 is the 6050UB. I’ve been following the Epson threads closely and the discussion about their new laser 12000. First time I’ve heard anything about the screen door effect on an Epson PJ. Not sure where you got that. The lens is probably better on both Epson models. These lens memory PJ’s can also provide scope ratios so really not apples to apples. I’d take a regular throw PJ if I was going to use a scope screen but not as much with a 16 x 9 screen.

Possibly better blacks with the Fengmi due to the ALPD technology. Folks like the black level on the 5050/9300 and 6050/9400 but it‘s nowhere near JVC levels and still has some dark grey to it. That’s what really has blown me away with the Fengmi T1. The black level totally unseen before with a DLP UST or even regular throw DLP projector.


----------



## Ricoflashback

lattiboy said:


> A few more showing off daytime contrast. There’s also a windowed door to the left of the screen:
> 
> 120” .6 Hisense CLR screen:
> 
> View attachment 3225535
> 
> View attachment 3225537
> 
> View attachment 3225536


Showoff. 

: > )


----------



## jeff9n

I saw the Game Mode option for T1. It's definitely there.



ViciousXUSMC said:


> From what I could tell in this thread they are very similar. The pictures I saw comparing the two I liked the color on the T1 more, but I think there were a few nods to the C2 as well making it very much a personal preference.
> 
> I wish the T1 was black not white with its housing, wish we had a confirmed game mode, and I think the C2 is using the ALDP 4.0 tech like the vava chorma but I am not sure what that translates into as far as real life gains vs the older tech.


----------



## humax

Ricoflashback said:


> First time I’ve heard anything about the screen door effect on an Epson PJ. Not sure where you got that.



Actually, I heard it from the same friend who bought the 9400. He said that in close inspection the 9400's pixels had a screen door effect in comparison to his previous Benq 2700, although he could not see anything from a viewing distance. I have not seen his projector in person though, so he may just be talking nonsense.




Ricoflashback said:


> Possibly better blacks with the Fengmi due to the ALPD technology. Folks like the black level on the 5050/9300 and 6050/9400 but it‘s nowhere near JVC levels and still has some dark grey to it. That’s what really has blown me away with the Fengmi T1. The black level totally unseen before with a DLP UST or even regular throw DLP projector.



Yes, in comparison to the other DLPs, ALPD models have managed to remove the haze, but expecting black levels equivalent to a JVC is a bit of a tall order. They will still not be pitch black. Even the JVCs need a dynamic iris to go pitch black. You need more than 3000 native to do that. The Xiaomi 1S is a 3500:1 machine and here is how it looks next to a JVC:

Japan VS China | and the winner is... - YouTube


----------



## Brajesh

Ricoflashback said:


> Showoff. : > )


@lattiboy, stop posting those gorgeous photos  ... actually, don't stop. Still waiting for Chris Chen/Quanzhou Ruichi Technology Co., Ltd. to ship my T1. Ordered 1/8 and she promised a tracking # today, but nothing. Definitely not...


----------



## manwithnoname

lattiboy said:


> A few more showing off daytime contrast. There’s also a windowed door to the left of the screen:
> 
> 120” .6 Hisense CLR screen:
> 
> View attachment 3225535
> 
> View attachment 3225537
> 
> View attachment 3225536


Holy Schnickey this looks good!


----------



## manwithnoname

lattiboy said:


> A few more showing off daytime contrast. There’s also a windowed door to the left of the screen:
> 
> 120” .6 Hisense CLR screen:
> 
> View attachment 3225535
> 
> View attachment 3225537
> 
> View attachment 3225536


Did you say you are at 120" 16:9? If so, how far away is your projector from your wall? This looks fantastic.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Point of parliamentary procedure, Humax. Maybe not JVC black levels (you need a pitch black, Velvet Elvis bat cave to really achieve) but so much better than everything else I’ve seen. I mean - really night and day compared to other gassed DLP projectors. I’ll be ecstatic with those black levels in a multipurpose room. Pair it with a quality UST ALR screen and it’s heaven as far as I’m concerned. I never expected to be able to get this black floor with a DLP projector.


----------



## lattiboy

manwithnoname said:


> Holy Schnickey this looks good!


This one I posted yesterday is actually more impressive to me. An absolute torture test. Check out hair, skin, phone, and jacket. DV “light” mode and I think night brightness:


----------



## ngcoolman

humax said:


> Bad marketing move, releasing this in less than two months after the C2. If they had waited for six months, they would not be sabotaging each other and the C2 would be sold out as the first DV projector. But they probably don't care much and are already designing the new model with some extra feature again. Both companies are basically Appotronics's poster-boys and they get to release their reference designs and prototypes first along with Wemax. I would not be surprised if they developed an 8K pixel-shifter in a couple of years at a much lower price than the 15000$ Hisense.


They are not supposed to be in the same tier in mainland China which is their primary market. MSRP for C2 is 12999 RMB (2050 USD) while MSRP for T1 is 16999 RMB (2680 USD). For those who is getting T1 shipped below China's MSRP is having a very good deal.


----------



## lattiboy

manwithnoname said:


> Did you say you are at 120" 16:9? If so, how far away is your projector from your wall? This looks fantastic.


About 15” or so. My screen is not perfectly flush with the wall.


----------



## zoomx2

this is what I found from other site


----------



## driege

I just ordered my T1 from Alibaba. Was offered $2300 shipped to get it within 30 days or $2530 for 7 days. I'm impatient so I chose the latter.


----------



## simply.bay

Hi all, im new into this projector and need some advise. I am looking to buy T1 to project out a screen size of 120". I saw a hard projector screen and does anyone has any experience with hard screen instead of fabric soft screen? Its seem to me the hard screen has a better coloration and more pleasing to my eyes, any opinion?


----------



## Ampro4600

humax said:


> Don' t you mean the 9400 or the 9300 is your current model? Anyway, you will have to put them side by side in order to provide a credible answer, but here is a try.
> 
> Colors: probably better on the T1 due to tri-laser.
> 
> Contrast-black levels: Epson might get a little darker?
> 
> Sharpness: AFAIK, Epson has a high quality lens, so a tie maybe?
> 
> Overall, when you factor in tri-laser, DV, HDR10+ and the screen-door effect on the Epson, I would go with the T1, but YMMV. I know a guy, who has been buying exclusively DLPs for the past 20 years, but recently got the 9400 and he is very happy with it.


I did mean the 9300, and yes, this is my current projector. Sorry for the confusion


----------



## shanedowley

Reading the posts and the shots listed on this thread and over on the C2 thread I’m not seeing much difference between the two units. My sense is that the T1 gives the wider colour gamut at the cost of colour accuracy. Gregory’s eventual review of the T1 will clarify this for us. If you don’t already have an Atmos system then the T1 makes a lot of sense. After that I think it’s down to personal preference on aesthetics. I personally like the look of the C2 device more.


----------



## GaeIta80

lattiboy said:


> A few more showing off daytime contrast. There’s also a windowed door to the left of the screen:
> 
> 120” .6 Hisense CLR screen:
> 
> View attachment 3225535
> 
> View attachment 3225537
> 
> View attachment 3225536


Lovely zebras! I spotted some Xbox gamepads over there! 

You got a series S or X? Could you please post some pics of games in Game Mode and HDR/DV (if supported)? Thanks a lot mate


----------



## Ricoflashback

shanedowley said:


> Reading the posts and the shots listed on this thread and over on the C2 thread I’m not seeing much difference between the two units. My sense is that the T1 gives the wider colour gamut at the cost of colour accuracy. Gregory’s eventual review of the T1 will clarify this for us. If you don’t already have an Atmos system then the T1 makes a lot of sense. After that I think it’s down to personal preference on aesthetics. I personally like the look of the C2 device more.


C2 only in white? If so, deal killer for a lot of folks.


----------



## GaeIta80

Ricoflashback said:


> C2 only in white? If so, deal killer for a lot of folks.


T1 is dark grey with black speakers cover, not white.


----------



## Ricoflashback

GaeIta80 said:


> T1 is dark grey with black speakers cover, not white.


Yes - as I stated earlier. The C2 is only available in white.


----------



## GaeIta80

Ricoflashback said:


> Yes - as I stated earlier. The C2 is only available in white.


Fengmi C2 (1 laser) is only white and older model, while Xiaomi C2 (RB+ laser with DV/DA) is all black and it's T1 direct competitor.


----------



## Ricoflashback

GaeIta80 said:


> Fengmi C2 (1 laser) is only white and older model, while Xiaomi C2 (RB+ laser with DV/DA) is all black and it's T1 direct competitor.


Got it. Thanks for the clarification. Xiaomi doesn‘t make it easy with their naming conventions. Is the Xiaomi C2 a dual laser versus the tri-laser T? Any direct comparisons on the web between both units? Also - I believe the T1 handles HDR10+, as well?


----------



## GaeIta80

Ricoflashback said:


> Got it. Thanks for the clarification. Xiaomi doesn‘t make it easy with their naming conventions. Is the Xiaomi C2 a dual laser versus the tri-laser T? Any direct comparisons on the web between both units? Also - I believe the T1 handles HDR10+, as well?


Yes Xiaomi Cinema 2 is a dual laser and no HDR+, correct.

Check @lattiboy earlier posts in this thread for some info & pics Xiaomi C2 vs T1.

T1 seemed having a better contrast/colour richness vs C2 better colour accuracy and no red tint (seems like a tri-laser thing)


----------



## Ricoflashback

GaeIta80 said:


> Yes Xiaomi Cinema 2 is a dual laser and no HDR+, correct.
> 
> Check @lattiboy earlier posts in this thread for some pics Xiaomi C2 vs T1.
> 
> T1 seemed having a better contrast/colour richness vs C2 better colour accuracy and red tint (seems like a tri-laser thing)


Thanks. I scoured the web and here are the best listing of specs I could find on the Formovie Fengmi T1 laser PJ. Also - I’ve never seen any content in HDR10+. Since I stream exclusively, Amazon Prime has the most content in HDR10+. Anybody have any experience with the picture quality versus HDR10 or Dolby Vision?









Bowers & Wilkins Provides Audio System for Formovie T1 UST Laser Projector


British speaker maker Bowers & Wilkins have designed the audio system for the Formovie T1 UST Laser Projector. Check out the details.




www.ecoustics.com


----------



## abaintor

GaeIta80 said:


> Yes Xiaomi Cinema 2 is a dual laser and no HDR+, correct.


This is not clear wether the C2 is really dual laser, or at least there is no difference with other mono-lasers : Gregory reported the same contrast, brightness and color coverage (58% BT2020 coverage) compared to previous Xiaomi model (1S 4K, mono laser) which is very weak compared to trilasers (more than 100% of BT2020)
So one should not advertise the dual laser thing on the C2, but the dolby vision support


----------



## shanedowley

GaeIta80 said:


> Yes Xiaomi Cinema 2 is a dual laser and no HDR+, correct.
> 
> Check @lattiboy earlier posts in this thread for some info & pics Xiaomi C2 vs T1.
> 
> T1 seemed having a better contrast/colour richness vs C2 better colour accuracy and no red tint (seems like a tri-laser thing)


Yes, I’m speaking of the differences between the Xiaomi C2 (it’s black!) and the Fengmi T1.


----------



## CabbageMan

just found this thread and this PJ looks incredible. Would you all recommend this over the Hisense PX1-Pro? Seems like it may be better at pretty much everything except gaming input lag?


----------



## René Serrato Enriquez

lattiboy said:


> A few more showing off daytime contrast. There’s also a windowed door to the left of the screen:
> 
> 120” .6 Hisense CLR screen:
> 
> View attachment 3225535
> 
> View attachment 3225537
> 
> View attachment 3225536


Are you streaming or using disc? Also, from which show is the zebras scene? Thanks!


----------



## humax

CabbageMan said:


> just found this thread and this PJ looks incredible. Would you all recommend this over the Hisense PX1-Pro? Seems like it may be better at pretty much everything except gaming input lag?



The T1 has better contrast for sure. It also has HDR10+ and B&W speakers. In other picture aspects, both are viable choices. Input lag will be measured by Gregory, so no verdict on that one yet.


----------



## CabbageMan

humax said:


> The T1 has better contrast for sure. It also has HDR10+ and B&W speakers. In other picture aspects, both are viable choices. Input lag will be measured by Gregory, so no verdict on that one yet.


So it’s comparable in most things but contrast and blacks are better? And it can be bought for much cheaper. Was really interested in the PX1-Pro but just doesn’t seem to be making sense anymore after seeing this and that people are getting in in the US for 2,200-2,500.


----------



## humax

CabbageMan said:


> So it’s comparable in most things but contrast and blacks are better?



ALPD module has the best native contrast right now among DLPs. Xiaomi/Fengmi reference models hit peak ALPD contrast numbers. Thus, ALPD laser engine and optical block provide the most dynamic image currently among UST DLPs due to higher on/off contrast numbers.


----------



## jeff9n

simply.bay said:


> Hi all, im new into this projector and need some advise. I am looking to buy T1 to project out a screen size of 120". I saw a hard projector screen and does anyone has any experience with hard screen instead of fabric soft screen? Its seem to me the hard screen has a better coloration and more pleasing to my eyes, any opinion?


My screen is hard and work great with T1. Fabric soft screen might be proned to wrinkles. Such wrinkles is bad for UST projector as you will see wavy motion.


----------



## Brajesh

Ricoflashback said:


> Since I stream exclusively, Amazon Prime has the most content in HDR10+. Anybody have any experience with the picture quality versus HDR10 or Dolby Vision?


I'm the opposite, with 90% of my content from discs. Quite a few HDR10+ titles, although nowhere as many as DV. Will be using a Zidoo Z9X to test HDR10+ with T1. I'm also curious how it compares with DV. There are some titles that have both, like 'The Suicide Squad (2021)' for one. I expect PQ will be similar or very hard to tell HDR10+ apart from DV.


----------



## loco_motion

Thanks for your photos. The images look great! I am thinking of getting the VAVA VA-LT030 120" ALR screen which also has a gain of 0.6. Any thoughts on the VAVA screen and whether it will pair well with the T1? Can I expect it to be similar to the Hisense screen? I have attached the basic specs I found in the VAVA manual for reference. Cheers.












lattiboy said:


> A few more showing off daytime contrast. There’s also a windowed door to the left of the screen:
> 
> 120” .6 Hisense CLR screen:
> 
> View attachment 3225535
> 
> View attachment 3225537
> 
> View attachment 3225536


----------



## humax

loco_motion said:


> Thanks for your photos. The images look great! I am thinking of getting the VAVA VA-LT030 120" ALR screen which also has a gain of 0.6. Any thoughts on the VAVA screen and whether it will pair well with the T1? Can I expect it to be similar to the Hisense screen? I have attached the basic specs I found in the VAVA manual for reference. Cheers.
> 
> View attachment 3226010



I ordered the same and I plan on getting the T1 in a couple of months, after Gregory's review. It is not top quality, but it will get the job done and the price is right. I wanted 150", but shipping cost from China and high taxes in my country made me reconsider.


----------



## Brajesh

I was just quoted $550 shipped for 150" PET Grid ALR screen material by XY, no frame. Less than 1/2 of buying w/frame. Think I'm going for it and build my own frame.


----------



## [email protected]

Can someone who has the projector comment on whether the custom color temperature option that is available on the Xiaomi C2 is also available on the T1? Gregory in his review of the C2 describes how this option allows the RGB gain to be adjusted globally. He provides the settings he used in his calibration which improved the color accuracy of the C2. If these same adjustments are available on the T1 perhaps they can address the pink hue we've seen in some of the screen shots. @lattiboy, can you comment?


----------



## spocky12

juic-E-juice said:


> Spocky12, do you have any idea if the application of your tools may reduce input lag for gaming on this unit. This is the one thing holding me back.


I suspect that my tweaks are somewhat specific to amlogic devices. This doesn't mean they can't be adapted for mediatek devices though. Can't be sure without testing.
Anyway, from what I understand, recent mediatek devices already offer a quite low input lag. I'll measure this as soon as I receive my t1.



Ricoflashback said:


> I can see it now. Let me root (brick) my Fengmi T1 and see what will be covered. While it’s on its way to China, I’ll be watching TV in our bedroom. A month or two later, maybe I’ll get my PJ back. I’m not as technically inclined to calibrate my projector and learn how to do it correctly. I’d just like to be able to adjust the picture like a BenQ PJ. Some basic stuff and trust the out of the box colors.
> 
> I was able to change the battery in my watch with a special tool. But then, I lost a little screw and had to tape the battery in. Not very elegant. I let the jeweler install my latest battery. No word of he used tape, too, or found another teeny screw to replace the original. Yeah - you can be assured that I won’t be opening up any projector.


Believe me, I don't want to risk any brick on a 2k+ device neither . 
I thought you were interested in details regarding the possibilities of customization and advanced calibration. Just sharing my knowledge of what can be done, and how this can be possible. 
I don't see Xiaomi/Fengmi integrating a more thorough calibration system than they're already providing. If I'm right, we're left with these 2 possibilities :

root access to this SQLite database in order to customize it (low level calibration, not my cup of tea)
open direct access to their display libs (as it was on their first UST devices running Android 6) so that a third party app can take advantage of it
I won't bet on any of them being easily achievable (if at all), but that's probably the only means for us to obtain what more recognized brands offer in terms of customization.
As for "basic picture adjustments", I believe everything available on their other devices is already available on this one.


----------



## lattiboy

[email protected] said:


> Can someone who has the projector comment on whether the custom color temperature option that is available on the Xiaomi C2 is also available on the T1? Gregory in his review of the C2 describes how this option allows the RGB gain to be adjusted globally. He provides the settings he used in his calibration which improved the color accuracy of the C2. If these same adjustments are available on the T1 perhaps they can address the pink hue we've seen in some of the screen shots. @lattiboy, can you comment?


Settings are identical to the C2 except the values for RGB are different and I’ve been unable to do it consistently by eye, that’s why I want a pro to post settings. Sucks there isn’t a CMS, but it’s good enough even with slightly wonky colors that I don’t particularly care.

As a side note, I think Dolby Vision is kind of not that great a feature. I found myself disabling it on the Roku and in many instances I prefer the standard 4K HDR, which this projector handles incredibly well. When I have time, I will throw up some side-by-side‘s to show the difference. Also, Dolby Vision is a huge pain in the ass if you’re using any type of media streamer service like Plex or Ember. It only works on certain devices, and not very consistently.


----------



## lattiboy

Since people seemed to like my in-room photo along with how it looks in person here’s another set, adjusted to my eyes on both. Also, this picture was so amazing in person my friend told me to pause so he could stare at it. iPhone 12 Pro Max:


----------



## aerodynamics

@lattiboy Can you comment on how DV content generally looks from, say, an Apple TV or whatever streaming device you’re using? A lot of screens you’re posting are eye candy shots from DV demo vids. My Chiq B5U (which was actually the first UST w/ DV, albeit unauthorized) looks great also with that kind of content but when it comes to general viewing, my experience is that everything seems too dark. Are you seeing the same?


----------



## GaeIta80

lattiboy said:


> Since people seemed to like my in-room photo along with how it looks in person here’s another set, adjusted to my eyes on both. Also, this picture was so amazing in person my friend told me to pause so he could stare at it. iPhone 12 Pro Max:
> 
> View attachment 3226187
> 
> View attachment 3226188


Well surely your dogs are enjoying it too 😄

Thanks for your pics and observations, as usual. If you could come back to us about the Gaming shots (Game Mode, HDR, DV) it would be great!


----------



## lattiboy

aerodynamics said:


> @lattiboy Can you comment on how DV content generally looks from, say, an Apple TV or whatever streaming device you’re using? A lot of screens you’re posting are eye candy shots from DV demo vids. My Chiq B5U (which was actually the first UST w/ DV, albeit unauthorized) looks great also with that kind of content but when it comes to general viewing, my experience is that everything seems too dark. Are you seeing the same?


That’s why I use bright mode. Gives way more shadow detail without losing much contrast. Dark mode is just too….dark.

It handles “normal” HDR super well with very minor adjustments. Here’s my BluRay rip of Interstellar, pictures don’t do it justice. In person blacks are dark, but less crushed:


----------



## lattiboy

And the settings I’m using for non DV content, which is more accurate at the cost of some color vibrancy. Picture Enhancement is a menu option only available in the home main menu. Still deciding if I like it or not. 

Night Mode Brightness
Custom Image
Brightness 55
Contrast 49
Saturation 51
Sharpness 0
Tone 52
Dynamic Contrast On

Custom color
Red 990
Green 992
Blue 1020


----------



## eezrider

lattiboy said:


> Since people seemed to like my in-room photo along with how it looks in person here’s another set, adjusted to my eyes on both. Also, this picture was so amazing in person my friend told me to pause so he could stare at it. iPhone 12 Pro Max:
> 
> View attachment 3226187
> 
> View attachment 3226188


These two shots show one of the problems trying to post pictures from a phone. If you compare the two pictures you can see the camera automatic white balance has used a different color temperature in each shot - in the photo with the dogs the projected image is bluer because the photo contains a lot of warmer colors from the carpet. Unless you adjust all the pictures in post to the same color temp you can't trust the camera is using the same values, shot to shot. And if you fix the color temp you'd have to verify that the value you use is consistent with what you see. If you have something like Lightroom, you could project a grayscale, adjust the image to suite on the projector, then take a picture and adjust in Lightroom if necessary to get a proper grayscale and note the color temp you use (ideally this needs no change but it might depending on the camera). Then for all subsequent screen shots adjust the color temp to be the same. In that way the projector's image in each photo should be neutral and unaffected by changes to the other components in the picture and by changes to the image content.


----------



## eezrider

lattiboy said:


> That’s why I use bright mode. Gives way more shadow detail without losing much contrast. Dark mode is just too….dark.
> 
> It handles “normal” HDR super well with very minor adjustments. Here’s my BluRay rip of Interstellar, pictures don’t do it justice. In person blacks are dark, but less crushed:
> 
> View attachment 3226222
> 
> View attachment 3226224
> 
> View attachment 3226226
> 
> View attachment 3226223


These look great. Skin tones look very good (modulo my comments about color temp variations!) And from your later post it looks like you have dialed in the color well. It seems the projector does have some CMS capability even if somewhat basic control (such as no gamma adjust).


----------



## GaeIta80

lattiboy said:


> And the settings I’m using for non DV content, which is more accurate at the cost of some color vibrancy. Picture Enhancement is a menu option only available in the home main menu. Still deciding if I like it or not.
> 
> Night Mode Brightness
> Custom Image
> Brightness 55
> Contrast 49
> Saturation 51
> Sharpness 0
> Tone 52
> Dynamic Contrast On
> 
> Custom color
> Red 990
> Green 992
> Blue 1020


Ok so DV, which was one of the exciting thing about T1, is not the real deal if HDR is looking much better since possible to be tweaked, right?


----------



## lattiboy

GaeIta80 said:


> Ok so DV, which was one of the exciting thing about T1, is not the real deal if HDR is looking much better since possible to be tweaked, right?


DV is still very good for most stuff and adds some color depth, but has a red bias you can’t really control except with color shift from view mode. I would say 80% of stuff looks really good in DV, but some stuff is redder. It’s not really that bad, but something I hope is addressed a bit in the future.

My only gripes:

DV color tone to red in some content

Only one custom setting, which is annoying. At least 2 would be helpful for night / day

Speckle on static colors of red / orange / purple 

Really annoying message in the bottom right every time you use eARC to control volume. No way to adjust on screen UI stuff.


----------



## asc671

I’m waiting on the review for the CarbonBlack Nanotech screen. I really want to pair it with this projector but I won’t be able to order one until way past August I assume. Fengmi and Xiaomi release USTs at a breakneck pace… I think one of them will release an even better one by that time.


----------



## Tanizhq

lattiboy said:


> Really annoying message in the bottom right every time you use eARC to control volume. No way to adjust on screen UI stuff.


Can you elaborate on that? Or show a screenshot of it? I am going to be using my Sonos Arc with it so will require volume control over eARC


----------



## GaeIta80

lattiboy said:


> DV is still very good for most stuff and adds some color depth, but has a red bias you can’t really control except with color shift from view mode. I would say 80% of stuff looks really good in DV, but some stuff is redder. It’s not really that bad, but something I hope is addressed a bit in the future.
> 
> My only gripes:
> 
> DV color tone to red in some content
> 
> Only one custom setting, which is annoying. At least 2 would be helpful for night / day
> 
> Speckle on static colors of red / orange / purple
> 
> Really annoying message in the bottom right every time you use eARC to control volume. No way to adjust on screen UI stuff.


Thanks a lot for adding more info. 

A couple of things:

- could you share a screenshot of how the speckle looks like? Have no idea since never experienced before

- what's the DV view mode with less red tint in your experience so far?

Thanks!


----------



## indieke2

lattiboy said:


> DV is still very good for most stuff and adds some color depth, but has a red bias you can’t really control except with color shift from view mode. I would say 80% of stuff looks really good in DV, but some stuff is redder. It’s not really that bad, but something I hope is addressed a bit in the future.
> 
> My only gripes:
> 
> DV color tone to red in some content
> 
> Only one custom setting, which is annoying. At least 2 would be helpful for night / day
> 
> Speckle on static colors of red / orange / purple
> 
> Really annoying message in the bottom right every time you use eARC to control volume. No way to adjust on screen UI stuff.


That speckle worries me a lot. No idea how that looks. I have to decide between the Xiaomi C2 and this one. The Xiaomi handles HDR well, but seems less in HDR10+. The full rec2020 in the T1 is the main interest. But if Speckle and unnatural colors are spoiling the party, maybe the C2 is still a better option.

I had the fengmi C2. Sold it. In SDR, it was great. But HDR was problematic on a lot of sources, also on it own player. You not buy today a projector that not shine in HDR or DV. But the price was sweeter....


----------



## Ricoflashback

lattiboy said:


> Since people seemed to like my in-room photo along with how it looks in person here’s another set, adjusted to my eyes on both. Also, this picture was so amazing in person my friend told me to pause so he could stare at it. iPhone 12 Pro Max:
> 
> View attachment 3226187
> 
> View attachment 3226188


Too bright, too vivid. Colors pop too much. Black levels look like, eh, deep black. Not enough "gas" or "mist" to the picture. Doesn't look reference quality, you know, an accurate picture to me. Pull out your meters and keep working on it.


----------



## Ricoflashback

asc671 said:


> I’m waiting on the review for the CarbonBlack Nanotech screen. I really want to pair it with this projector but I won’t be able to order one until way past August I assume. Fengmi and Xiaomi release USTs at a breakneck pace… I think one of them will release an even better one by that time.


Thanks for the heads up. I don't know if they plan on a consumer offering or not. The technology sounds very intriguing. I think they are focusing on large venues right now. And that makes sense as the qualities of the fabric lend itself to very, very large business displays.


----------



## pionoor

I got my unit and have been watching lots of DV content. I'm impressed with the overall image quality, however, I'm disappointed with the strong reddish tint that seems to be an issue with DV content only, especially in dark scenes. I have not seen enough non DV content to notice the same issue. Below attached some examples. Note that there is no added camera effect, what you see in the pics below is like 90% close to real thing, it fact, its a bit worst in real life:


























Also, I think MEMC is not enabled for DV content. When you play regular content, there is an option for MEMC on the menu, but not when you play DV. Having said that, you can enable MEMC from the general settings, which I did, but can't notice the effect, so I think it is not enabled.

There is an option in the settings to submit feedback (bug report), I encourage anyone who have a unite to report the red tint issue, hopefully, they would fix it via software update.


----------



## GaeIta80

pionoor said:


> I got my unit and have been watching lots of DV content. I'm impressed with the overall image quality, however, I'm disappointed with the strong reddish tint that seems to be an issue with DV content only, especially in dark scenes. I have not seen enough non DV content to notice the same issue. Below attached some examples. Note that there is no added camera effect, what you see in the pics below is like 90% close to real thing, it fact, its a bit worst in real life:
> View attachment 3226260
> 
> 
> View attachment 3226259
> 
> View attachment 3226258
> 
> 
> Also, I think MEMC is not enabled for DV content. When you play regular content, there is an option for MEMC in the menu, but not when you plan DV. Having said that, you can enable MEMC from the general settings, which I did, but can't notice the effect, so I think it is not enabled.
> 
> There is an option in the settings to submit feedback (bug report), I encourage anyone who have a unite to report the red tint issue, hopefully, they would fix it via software update.


Ok from being excited...I am starting to get worried right now. Might have to hold on pulling the trigger until this DV issue gets solved or tweaked...


----------



## GaeIta80

And this brand new quick video review doesn't help with the reddish DV tint:






😒


----------



## [email protected]

pionoor said:


> I got my unit and have been watching lots of DV content. I'm impressed with the overall image quality, however, I'm disappointed with the strong reddish tint that seems to be an issue with DV content only, especially in dark scenes. I have not seen enough non DV content to notice the same issue. Below attached some examples. Note that there is no added camera effect, what you see in the pics below is like 90% close to real thing, it fact, its a bit worst in real life:
> View attachment 3226260
> 
> 
> View attachment 3226259
> 
> View attachment 3226258
> 
> 
> Also, I think MEMC is not enabled for DV content. When you play regular content, there is an option for MEMC in the menu, but not when you plan DV. Having said that, you can enable MEMC from the general settings, which I did, but can't notice the effect, so I think it is not enabled.
> 
> There is an option in the settings to submit feedback (bug report), I encourage anyone who have a unite to report the red tint issue, hopefully, they would fix it via software update.


What DV settings were you using? I think it was established that View/Dark was most natural.


----------



## Adamgoodapp

Hoping we can complain enough to get Fengmi to release a fix.

Still for the price compared to other USTs, I'm still happy to buy it with the quality of normal HDR and the really good audio then hopefully DV can be fixed down the line.


----------



## Ricoflashback

pionoor said:


> I got my unit and have been watching lots of DV content. I'm impressed with the overall image quality, however, I'm disappointed with the strong reddish tint that seems to be an issue with DV content only, especially in dark scenes. I have not seen enough non DV content to notice the same issue. Below attached some examples. Note that there is no added camera effect, what you see in the pics below is like 90% close to real thing, it fact, its a bit worst in real life:
> View attachment 3226260
> 
> 
> View attachment 3226259
> 
> View attachment 3226258
> 
> 
> Also, I think MEMC is not enabled for DV content. When you play regular content, there is an option for MEMC in the menu, but not when you plan DV. Having said that, you can enable MEMC from the general settings, which I did, but can't notice the effect, so I think it is not enabled.
> 
> There is an option in the settings to submit feedback (bug report), I encourage anyone who have a unite to report the red tint issue, hopefully, they would fix it via software update.


You can always turn off DV, correct? Especially if you have a separate streamer like an Nvidia Shield Pro. To tell the truth, I've never been enamored with DV or HDR. Even on my Sony OLED TV. The tone mapping is much more difficult with a projector that doesn't hit the "nits" required for a full HDR or DV picture. But again - - I'd take the pics from lattiboy's posts anyday for everything I watch. The blacks and "pop" are fantastic. I'd be worried if the reddish tint was prevalent on all SDR content.

Just for grins, I wonder what this PJ would look like with a Lumagen. Obviously overkill, cost wise, but it would be interesting. Personally - - if the Lumagen cost $5K - - I'd go with the madVR Envy Pro anyday. But that's even worse, price wise. But all tone mapping issues resolved going forward with the madVR Envy Pro. And - - screen formatting if you wanted to use a scope screen with multiple saved aspect ratios.


----------



## Tanizhq

Ricoflashback said:


> You can always turn off DV, correct? Especially if you have a separate streamer like an Nvidia Shield Pro.


Am I misunderstanding something? Or what difference would it make having a seperate streamer (I have an Apple TV 4K)?


----------



## shanedowley

Ricoflashback said:


> You can always turn off DV, correct? Especially if you have a separate streamer like an Nvidia Shield Pro. To tell the truth, I've never been enamored with DV or HDR. Even on my Sony OLED TV. The tone mapping is much more difficult with a projector that doesn't hit the "nits" required for a full HDR or DV picture. But again - - I'd take the pics from lattiboy's posts anyday for everything I watch. The blacks and "pop" are fantastic. I'd be worried if the reddish tint was prevalent on all SDR content.
> 
> Just for grins, I wonder what this PJ would look like with a Lumagen. Obviously overkill, cost wise, but it would be interesting. Personally - - if the Lumagen cost $5K - - I'd go with the madVR Envy Pro anyday. But that's even worse, price wise. But all tone mapping issues resolved going forward with the madVR Envy Pro. And - - screen formatting if you wanted to use a scope screen with multiple saved aspect ratios.


Maybe not be as crazy as it sounds pairing up a T1 or Xiaomi C2 with a MadVR Envy. Would make for the ultimate UST set-up with all the inherent practical benefits of ultra short throws. And PQ-wise the two together might give the likes of a JVC NZ8 a run for its money at less the price. Would be very interesting to compare them…


----------



## lattiboy

pionoor said:


> I got my unit and have been watching lots of DV content. I'm impressed with the overall image quality, however, I'm disappointed with the strong reddish tint that seems to be an issue with DV content only, especially in dark scenes. I have not seen enough non DV content to notice the same issue. Below attached some examples. Note that there is no added camera effect, what you see in the pics below is like 90% close to real thing, it fact, its a bit worst in real life:
> View attachment 3226260
> 
> 
> View attachment 3226259
> 
> View attachment 3226258
> 
> 
> Also, I think MEMC is not enabled for DV content. When you play regular content, there is an option for MEMC in the menu, but not when you plan DV. Having said that, you can enable MEMC from the general settings, which I did, but can't notice the effect, so I think it is not enabled.
> 
> There is an option in the settings to submit feedback (bug report), I encourage anyone who have a unite to report the red tint issue, hopefully, they would fix it via software update.


Oof, that looks bad. I’ll try the Silent Sea when I have time. Archive 88 (which is also DV and quite dark) had no such insane tint. Same with a few marvel films and a bunch of nature stuff. Never seen anything that extreme.

If anything ever looked like that I would just toggle off Dolby Vision in my media player. As far as I know they all have that option (Roku, Nvidia, ATV)


----------



## Ricoflashback

Tanizhq said:


> Am I misunderstanding something? Or what difference would it make having a seperate streamer (I have an Apple TV 4K)?


I don't have the Fengmi T1 and if there are problems with DV content (if the UST Projector, itself, doesn't have the option to turn DV off and go straight to SDR) - then a separate streamer like the Nvidia Shield Pro has the ability to go toggle from DV or turn DV off, even if your TV or projector is DV capable. That would be a way to default to SDR if the DV version has too much rent tint or even if you didn't like the picture. I do not know if the Apple TV 4K has this capability or not. We tried the Apple TV 4K streamer but ended up getting rid of it (returning it.) Very confusing menu structure AND the inability to sign-in to multiple streaming (subscription) services that you've already paid for because Apple makes you subscribe through their channels! Love the backlit Shield remote.


----------



## lattiboy

Ricoflashback said:


> I don't have the Fengmi T1 and if there are problems with DV content (if the UST Projector, itself, doesn't have the option to turn DV off and go straight to SDR) - then a separate streamer like the Nvidia Shield Pro has the ability to go toggle from DV or turn DV off, even if your TV or projector is DV capable. That would be a way to default to SDR if the DV version has too much rent tint or even if you didn't like the picture. I do not know if the Apple TV 4K has this capability or not. We tried the Apple TV 4K streamer but ended up getting rid of it (returning it.) Very confusing menu structure AND the inability to sign-in to multiple streaming (subscription) services because Apple makes you subscribe through their channels! Love the backlit Shield remote.


With the Roku and Nvidia shield you still get HDR 4K, just not DV. You don’t have to go down to SDR


----------



## Ricoflashback

shanedowley said:


> Maybe not be as crazy as it sounds pairing up a T1 or Xiaomi C2 with a MadVR Envy. Would make for the ultimate UST set-up with all the inherent practical benefits of ultra short throws. And PQ-wise the two together might give the likes of a JVC NZ8 a run for its money at less the price. Would be very interesting to compare them…


Well, JVC Nation would debate, heavily, any mention of a JVC product "giving it a run for its money." And, the Fengmi T1 would be immediately dismissed as an inferior projector with minuscule contrast ratios. I digress. Yes, it would be interesting to see how much a madVR Envy Pro could help with SDR and DV/HDR/HDR10+. I like the madVR standalone solution as the software will be continually updated and the hardware can be updated, as well. A Ron Popiel, "set it and forget it" proposition. I actually posted in a video processor thread and asked why there isn't any competing products to Lumagen or madEnvy that are much more price competitive. I imagine it will happen one day but I'm not holding my breath.


----------



## Ricoflashback

lattiboy said:


> With the Roku and Nvidia shield you still get HDR 4K, just not DV. You don’t have to go down to SDR


The Nvidia Shield Pro is everything - including DV. So you are right about SDR (thanks for clarifying.) You can go to plain old HDR with the Nvidia Shield Pro from DV - - if you do not like how DV looks. My Nvidia Shield Pro is connected to my AVR - straight pass thru. I'm not sure how it handles HDR10+. I've never seen any content in HDR10+ (streaming) and I have no idea if there is a problem with the picture quality versus HDR or not. I'd guess not.


----------



## abaintor

pionoor said:


> ...I think MEMC is not enabled for DV content. When you play regular content, there is an option for MEMC in the menu, but not when you plan DV. Having said that, you can enable MEMC from the general settings, which I did, but can't notice the effect, so I think it is not enabled.


This would explain the first posts/feedbacks about the T1 where MEMC doesn't work.
This is very unfortunate and unacceptable, and I disagree about the advice to disable DV. This is a real must have for projection (blurays 4K and streaming services) : there is a real noticable difference against static HDR or SDR and especially for projectors it gives guidelines to adjust brightness according to their capabilities (instead of adjusting manually brightness and contrast for each movie)
HDFury/lumagen is not a solution either : expensive, for experts, produces only static HDR
So either Fengmi communicates about a fix on MEMC and reddish tuning, or else I would wait for another more mature device


----------



## Ricoflashback

abaintor said:


> This would explain the first posts/feedbacks about the T1 where MEMC doesn't work.
> This is very unfortunate and unacceptable, and I disagree about the advice to disable DV. This is a real must have for projection (blurays 4K and streaming services) : there is a real noticable difference against static HDR or SDR.
> HDFury/lumagen is not a solution (expensive, for experts, produces artificial HDR)
> So either Fengmi communicates about a fix on MEMC and reddish tuning, or else I would wait for another more mature device


Sorry - - I just don't see much difference between HDR and DV - - with a projector. Even on my Sony OLED TV. HDR is more than adequate for me as I stream, exclusively. I can't speak to Blu-ray discs as I no longer own a 4K Blu-ray player. I understand your point, though, about having a fix for MEMC and the reddish tint on DV content. To me, it's not a deal killer - - especially with the clarity of the picture (no gas, no mist) and black levels with SDR and HDR. With how quick Xiaomi releases products, you probably won't have to wait very long for a more mature device.


----------



## Brajesh

shanedowley said:


> Maybe not be as crazy as it sounds pairing up a T1 or Xiaomi C2 with a MadVR Envy. Would make for the ultimate UST set-up with all the inherent practical benefits of ultra short throws.


I'm using HDFury VRROOM w/the A300 (same one in the video review/comparison above) and PQ is excellent with DV content sent by Zidoo Z9X. Not sure I'd put much weight on the video however--beyond what @lattiboy & other new owners have shared so far, we'll only get a definitive verdict after Gregory weighs in. My T1 finally shipped, and I'll compare w/A300 later. One thing I do see in the video that seems noticeably better than A300 is T1's richer colors, which is also true of VAVA Chroma. But, at end of the day, color accuracy is more important. And deep blacks and good contrast... we want it all !


----------



## lattiboy

abaintor said:


> This would explain the first posts/feedbacks about the T1 where MEMC doesn't work.
> This is very unfortunate and unacceptable, and I disagree about the advice to disable DV. This is a real must have for projection (blurays 4K and streaming services) : there is a real noticable difference against static HDR or SDR and especially for projectors it gives guidelines to adjust brightness according to their capabilities (instead of adjusting manually brightness and contrast for each movie)
> HDFury/lumagen is not a solution either : expensive, for experts, produces only static HDR
> So either Fengmi communicates about a fix on MEMC and reddish tuning, or else I would wait for another more mature device


Dolby Vision is in no way a must have for projectors. The standard HDR handling on both the T1 and the Xaomi C2 is quite good. The most I ever have to do is adjust the brightness by a few points if I find something too dark. 90% of the time I make no adjustments to my settings posted previously. There are instances where I prefer the non-DV over the DV, like some of the Disney+ stuff.

Totally understand your stance and not trying to force anybody in to buying a PJ, but I think your concerns are overblown in this regard.


----------



## pionoor

[email protected] said:


> What DV settings were you using? I think it was established that View/Dark was most natural.


I was using Dark. Bright mode makes it even worst. The issue is not always there, certain scenes gets really bad.


----------



## pionoor

Ricoflashback said:


> You can always turn off DV, correct? Especially if you have a separate streamer like an Nvidia Shield Pro. To tell the truth, I've never been enamored with DV or HDR. Even on my Sony OLED TV. The tone mapping is much more difficult with a projector that doesn't hit the "nits" required for a full HDR or DV picture. But again - - I'd take the pics from lattiboy's posts anyday for everything I watch. The blacks and "pop" are fantastic. I'd be worried if the reddish tint was prevalent on all SDR content.


 Yes I can certainly turn it off. But DV is one of the main reason I bought it.


----------



## abaintor

Ricoflashback said:


> Sorry - - I just don't see much difference between HDR and DV - - with a projector. Even on my Sony OLED TV. HDR is more than adequate for me as I stream, exclusively. I can't speak to Blu-ray discs as I no longer own a 4K Blu-ray player.





lattiboy said:


> Dolby Vision is in no way a must have for projectors. The standard HDR handling on both the T1 and the Xaomi C2 is quite good. The most I ever have to do is adjust the brightness by a few points if I find something too dark. 90% of the time I make no adjustments to my settings posted previously. There are instances where I prefer the non-DV over the DV, like some of the Disney+ stuff


I understand your points though, differences are less significant on streaming services (especially on series) but it is getting better with the latest productions (disney+ movies)
I am not a video expert but I can really see the difference with the scene by scene brightness adjustments thanks to DV when you have a dark scene with bright spots in it (lord of the rings, marvels...). Static HDR (as well as hdfury trick) is unable to bring you that because it is an average adjustment for the whole movie.
Of course this T1 is a great projector, the best I think at this state.
At least MEMC should be fixed, red tint can be tweaked a little as far as I understand


----------



## Brajesh

HDFury advocates claim it's doing dynamic tonemapping (I'm assuming they mean frame or scene-by-scene) at a fraction of the cost of a Lumagen or dealing with madVR complexity. Since I started watching DV content w/HDFury, I do notice colors just pop more (more vibrancy to them), but admit it could just as well be a placebo effect .


----------



## Ricoflashback

Brajesh said:


> HDFury advocates claim it's doing dynamic tonemapping (I'm assuming they mean frame or scene-by-scene) at a fraction of the cost of a Lumagen or dealing with madVR complexity. Since I started watching DV content w/HDFury, I do notice colors just pop more (more vibrancy to them), but admit it could just as well be a placebo effect .


HD Fury would be the perfect company to come out with an affordable, tone mapping processor that provides an alternative to Lumagen or madVREnvy. 

HDFury...are you listening?


----------



## Tanizhq

I'm pretty new to all of this. I just use a Apple TV 4K with my current projector and HD Fury Arcana to be able to connect my Sonos Arc to that. 
Can someone explain a bit about the Zidoo, Lumagen and madVR products, and what exactly they do and how it would be setup? (And also if it is worth it ahah)


----------



## eezrider

Ricoflashback said:


> HD Fury would be the perfect company to come out with an affordable, tone mapping processor that provides an alternative to Lumagen or madVREnvy.
> 
> HDFury...are you listening?


Agreed. HDFury, please... 

As to the HDFury hack, my understanding is that it relies on using a Sony player like the x700 and using the HDFury to send a custom EDID that fakes the presence of a Sony screen, causing the Sony player to do tone mapping normally done by a TV. Sony engineered this behavior into their players to compensate for its absence in the TVs. The hack means you can get DV-like mapping on an HDR10 screen or projector.


----------



## eezrider

pionoor said:


> I was using Dark. Bright mode makes it even worst. The issue is not always there, certain scenes gets really bad.


Office or View mode? From earlier posts, Office while brighter had a pronounced red shift compared to View.


----------



## eezrider

Mareleon said:


> i put my xiaomi projector in a besta and rebuilt the closet accordingly. To gain depth, I just screwed a real wood panel on top and integrated my vividstorm screen at the same time. Beamer then simply moves out as a drawer when needed. underneath you could also pack a center speaker or, like me, a soundbar directly in front of the screen. quite cheap and I think pretty.


@Mareleon , great solution, could you provide a link to the actuator you used for the drawer and maybe some more details of how you linked it to a remote?


----------



## GaeIta80

@lattiboy could you clarify a couple of things about the T1?

- if I plug an amazon Firestick 4k Max into the projector HDMI, it does decode/display any DV/DA content (Netflix, Disney +, Apple TV) automatically, right? 

- the annoying message you get with eARC is when you change the eARC soundbar/AV volume with the projector remote? Is it set on passthrough? 

Thanks!


----------



## shanedowley

eezrider said:


> Agreed. HDFury, please...
> 
> As to the HDFury hack, my understanding is that it relies on using a Sony player like the x700 and using the HDFury to send a custom EDID that fakes the presence of a Sony screen, causing the Sony player to do tone mapping normally done by a TV. Sony engineered this behavior into their players to compensate for its absence in the TVs. The hack means you can get DV-like mapping on an HDR10 screen or projector.





Brajesh said:


> HDFury advocates claim it's doing dynamic tonemapping (I'm assuming they mean frame or scene-by-scene) at a fraction of the cost of a Lumagen or dealing with madVR complexity. Since I started watching DV content w/HDFury, I do notice colors just pop more (more vibrancy to them), but admit it could just as well be a placebo effect .


In the early days of standard Dolby Vision, the sink (display) used a processor which decoded the metadata generated during the encoding of the content to re-map (tone-map) the luminance portion matching the sink's peak white and RGB capabilities. This is done dynamically on a per-frame or per-scene basis. Low latency DV (LLDV) is an evolution of standard DV and came about a few years back as a collaboration between Sony and Dolby for the release of the Sony A1 TV. With LLDV, the relevant processing is done at the source instead of the sink. The benefit being the elimination of all problems associated with latencies and the transfer of metadata. No metadata is sent to the sink in LLDV. Instead the source (such as the current gen of AppleTV devices or a DV compatible blu-ray player) determines the capabilities and characteristics of the sink based on the sink’s EDID details. Devices like the HD Fury Vertex which sit between the source and sink can be used to fake the sink’s EDID so that the source sees the attached sink as a DV capable device, thus enabling LLDV content at the source that is dynamically tone-mapped to the sink’s capabilities. LLDV mode is now mandatory for DV devices, whereas the standard mode is no longer required. Significant benefits of Dolby Vision is that it dynamically maps per scene or frame the BT.2020 encoded gamut to the display’s capability and Dolby Vision content is mastered to 12-bit colour depth over HDR10’s 10-bit.


----------



## pionoor

eezrider said:


> Office or View mode? From earlier posts, Office while brighter had a pronounced red shift compared to View.


I tried them all, View mode is the best. Those pics were taken while it was on Dark/view mode.


----------



## lattiboy

GaeIta80 said:


> @lattiboy could you clarify a couple of things about the T1?
> 
> - if I plug an amazon Firestick 4k Max into the projector HDMI, it does decode/display any DV/DA content (Netflix, Disney +, Apple TV) automatically, right?
> 
> - the annoying message you get with eARC is when you change the eARC soundbar/AV volume with the projector remote? Is it set on passthrough?
> 
> Thanks!



Yes, DV is automatic for me on Netflix, HBO, and Disney. It flashes and you see the Dolby logo come up on the screen when it starts. The only way to turn it off is to specify your tv as 4K HDR non-DV in your media players menu.

Weirdly enough the volume message just went away. I don’t know if there was a sneaky firmware update or what, but now I just see the normal volume indicator on screen on the right side.


----------



## ngcoolman

@lattiboy @pionoor Would you mind telling me the firmware version for your T1. Mine is FengOS 1.4.6.1938. I asked because I seem to have different experience with you two regarding some of the features. 

For example, MEMC works for me but doesn't seem to work for @pionoor. But I usually prefer to leave it off as I don't like SOE (though the SOE is subtle and I cannot tell the difference between low/middle/high)

@lattiboy said game mode is too dark which I don't see such problem. Its image is very similar to display mode which makes the color temperature too cold to my taste. 

For DV, the overall brightness for bright mode and dark mode is the same to me except dark mode actually increase the brightness of the shadow details (so the image will have less contrast). This seems to contradict what @lattiboy is seeing. Your description of bright mode and dark mode actually make more sense compared to what I am seeing from my T1.

Finally, what we are all in agreement is the DV mode red tint issue. But we should all agree it shall be fixable by sw because not all the scene have the red tint, only in some dark scene (but not all dark scene). Meanwhile, the red tint can be mitigated if I switch to night mode or silent mode. But the brightness will be much lower in those modes and can only be used with a complete dark viewing condition.


----------



## pionoor

ngcoolman said:


> @lattiboy @pionoor Would you mind telling me the firmware version for your T1. Mine is FengOS 1.4.6.1938. I asked because I seem to have different experience with you two regarding some of the features.
> 
> For example, MEMC works for me but doesn't seem to work for @pionoor. But I usually prefer to leave it off as I don't like SOE (though the SOE is subtle and I cannot tell the difference between low/middle/high)


I do have 1.4.6.1938. MEMC available for SDR and HDR, but not for DV. There is no option to turning it on from the quick menu.


----------



## ngcoolman

pionoor said:


> I do have 1.4.6.1938. MEMC available for SDR and HDR, but not for DV. There is no option to turning it on from the quick menu.


See. The option is also not available for me neither for DV. So MEMC works fine for you for SDR and HDR content too?


----------



## ngcoolman

pionoor said:


> I do have 1.4.6.1938. MEMC available for SDR and HDR, but not for DV. There is no option to turning it on from the quick menu.


By the way, would you mind telling me which scene from Silent Sea (e.g. which episode) you see the very red tint problem? I would like to test it out myself too.


----------



## Kris404

Brajesh said:


> I was just quoted $550 shipped for 150" PET Grid ALR screen material by XY, no frame. Less than 1/2 of buying w/frame. Think I'm going for it and build my own frame.


Good deal. I was quoted $750 for screen-only with grommets to California.


----------



## pionoor

ngcoolman said:


> See. The option is also not available for me neither for DV. So MEMC works fine for you for SDR and HDR content too?


If you press the button on the right, below the wheel button, you will get a little menu at the top of the screen, without exiting the current play. Under Advanced, you will find motion compensation settings:








Note, that appears only when you are not in DV. Otherwise, you will get DV options; Bright and Dark.
And yeah it seems to be working when I enable it for HDR and SDR.


----------



## pionoor

ngcoolman said:


> By the way, would you mind telling me which scene from Silent Sea (e.g. which episode) you see the very red tint problem? I would like to test it out myself too.


I binged watch the whole season, sorry I don’t remember which episode exactly. There are many scenes throughout the season that have the same issue. It should not be hard to find some.


----------



## ngcoolman

pionoor said:


> I binged watch the whole season, sorry I don’t remember which episode exactly. There are many scenes throughout the season that have the same issue. It should not be hard to find some.


No problem. I think I got a similar scene from the series. I use XBX to view the netflix and disney plus. While turning off DV but keeping hdr10 can solve the red tint issue, but most other scenes DV will look better to me (skin tone more natural and color more vibrant). Do you have the same experience?


----------



## GaeIta80

ngcoolman said:


> No problem. I think I got a similar scene from the series. I use XBX to view the netflix and disney plus. While turning off DV but keeping hdr10 can solve the red tint issue, but most other scenes DV will look better to me (skin tone more natural and color more vibrant). Do you have the same experience?


Could you post any pics of XBX gaming in Game Mode to have an idea of how bright/cold it looks like? Also, have you tried gaming in DV with Series X? Better or worse colour wise? Lag?

Cheers!


----------



## mirkmito

Try to submit bug reports for MEMC when DV mode is active, so as to improve the device @ngcoolman - @pionoor


----------



## ngcoolman

GaeIta80 said:


> Could you post any pics of XBX gaming in Game Mode to have an idea of how bright/cold it looks like? Also, have you tried gaming in DV with Series X? Better or worse colour wise? Lag?
> 
> Cheers!


Sorry, I don't have any game support DV. I took two pictures while playing Lost Judgement for your reference.

Brightness= view; image parameter = custom with brightness 52, contrast 49, saturation 50, sharpness 0, tone 50, color temperature warm, dynamic contrast off.









brightness = view; image parameters = game


----------



## gama91

Hi everyone,

I have a xiaomi mijia 1s 4k but unfortunately I'm not at all satisfied since here in italy the video frequency is 50Hz (the projector is fixed at 60Hz). Should I change to this projector, having the memc, would anything change? Would there actually be an upgrade?


----------



## mirkmito

[CITAZIONE="gama91, posta: 61366287, membro: 9597324"]Ciao a tutti,

Ho uno xiaomi mijia 1s 4k ma purtroppo non sono per niente soddisfatto visto che qui in italia la frequenza video è di 50Hz (il proiettore è fisso a 60Hz). Dovrei passare questo proiettore, avendo il memc, cambierebbe qualcosa? Ci sarebbe un aggiornamento?[/CITAZIONE]

@gama91 Sempre fisso a 60hz...
Potrebbe migliorare.... alcuni utenti dicono migliora settandolo su medio (sul vpr Cinema 2)


----------



## GaeIta80

ngcoolman said:


> Sorry, I don't have any game support DV. I took two pictures while playing Lost Judgement for your reference.
> 
> Brightness= view; image parameter = custom with brightness 52, contrast 49, saturation 50, sharpness 0, tone 50, color temperature warm, dynamic contrast off.
> View attachment 3226807
> 
> 
> brightness = view; image parameters = game
> View attachment 3226808


Thanks for this, appreciated! It seems like Game Mode is more reddish than cold/dark compared to your User tweaked settings.

Did you notice any major input lag jump between Game and User mode?


----------



## ngcoolman

GaeIta80 said:


> Thanks for this, appreciated! It seems like Game Mode is more reddish than cold/dark compared to your User tweaked settings.
> 
> Did you notice any major input lag jump between Game and User mode?


I am only a casual gamer and cannot tell the incr of lag.


----------



## pionoor

ngcoolman said:


> No problem. I think I got a similar scene from the series. I use XBX to view the netflix and disney plus. While turning off DV but keeping hdr10 can solve the red tint issue, but most other scenes DV will look better to me (skin tone more natural and color more vibrant). Do you have the same experience?


Im using Apple TV. Some other DV content looks ok, but still I’d find some scenes are affected.


----------



## 3sprit

gama91 said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> I have a xiaomi mijia 1s 4k but unfortunately I'm not at all satisfied since here in italy the video frequency is 50Hz (the projector is fixed at 60Hz). Should I change to this projector, having the memc, would anything change? Would there actually be an upgrade?


 Even the Xiaomi Cinema 2 can be a solution.
Read the reviews of Grégory


----------



## gama91

3sprit said:


> Even the Xiaomi Cinema 2 can be a solution.
> Read the reviews of Grégory


I know it's not the best, but at least it would make the matches watchable on now/dazn.. Currently it's a disaster with micro shots on the mijia 1s. Maybe importing into MEMC on the mijia, impossible right?


----------



## mirkmito

gama91 said:


> I know it's not the best, but at least it would make the matches watchable on now/dazn.. Currently it's a disaster with micro shots on the mijia 1s. Maybe importing into MEMC on the mijia, impossible right?


Non verrà mai implementato
MEMC con sport funziona


----------



## loco_motion

Thanks for all this great info. I was wondering if extended warranty on the T1 would be worth getting. The standard warranty is 1 year and The local agent here in Singapore is offering a second year of warranty for USD225 and an additional third year for another USD225. It includes parts and labour, but doesn’t include overheating and physical damage. It's my first UST projector so I am not familar with the relability in general. I don't plan on upgrading the next 3 years!


----------



## pionoor

For those who wanna see the red tint issue, check out The Silent Sea on Netflix, at the very beginning of episode 5, about a minute long scene which is really bad in DV. Here are more examples:

















I highly encourage whoever has a T1 to submit a feedback with some pictures attached through this link https://feedback-staging.it.formovie.net:8081/system/feedback/custom_add
You gonna need to translate the page to english. It will not allow you to submit the form unless you put a Chinese phone number, I grabbed some fake number from google, 13335901938, and worked for me.


----------



## Adamgoodapp

That is bad. Could you post an image of the same scene but with standard HDR? As soon as I get my T1, I will also post feedback.


----------



## Tanizhq

I wonder if it is just an issue with DV on some displays since the Hisense H9G has the same issue with red tint


----------



## Brajesh

@lattiboy, curious if you were able to check out the same 'The Silent Sea' scenes as @pionoor w/red/purplish tints? Those look pretty horrid, and unlike any PQ screenshots you've shared.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Tanizhq said:


> I wonder if it is just an issue with DV on some displays since the Hisense H9G has the same issue with red tint


DV is especially hard with projectors. Unless you step up to a regular throw PJ like the JVC models with their frame by frame, Dynamic Tone Mapping - your Dolby Vision mileage may vary. I just don’t see exquisite DTM in UST projectors at this price. To me, the solution is simple. Turn off DV. There have been many instances in the past with my Sony 900F LCD TV - which has the famous Sony processing, where Amazon DV looked terrible. I just opted for the 1080P version. It doesn’t happen at all with my newer Sony A9S OLED TV.

As long as the Fengmi T1 provides a great SDR and HDR picture with very noticeable improvements in black levels and without the gas and mist of other UST projectors - I’m all in. Especially at this price range. If DV is your bag, either go with a JVC, possibly the newer Epson laser 12000 with “Scene Adaptive Gamma” or add an expensive processor like a Lumagen or better madVR Envy Pro. Otherwise, don’t expect a Dom Perignon DV experience on a beer budget. It’s all about expectations and performance relative to your buying criteria. If you’re waiting for a JVC like DTM capability in a UST projector - you’ve got a long wait ahead of you.

P.S. - I took this from a poster on AV Forums across the pond. I think it's a great description of Dynamic Tone Mapping and the handling of HDR & DV:

"DTM usually has two dynamic elements, so the dynamic analysis of content and the dynamic mapping to the displays capability based on the analysis. The difference between DTM and other systems has previously been that DTM does not solely rely on the static (HDR10) or dynamic (HDR10+ or Dolby Vision) source HDR metadata and instead has the processing power to independantly analyse the frames (or scenes*) directly in realtime(*) and then tone map based on that dynamic real-time analysis. To do this can take some processing power and this is often what differentiates between the true DTM and other more static HDR methods with good / bad static curves, manual HDR optimisation (manual slider) or maybe more automatic optimisation methods (auto slider) that aren’t full DTM. I strongly suspect there’s a reason why everyone in the industry calls it DTM and Epson is not calling theirs DTM. The important point is probably more not what it is or what it’s called, but if it works and specifically works on tricky material that needs help, so not just working on good quality easy material."


----------



## eezrider

In


Ricoflashback said:


> DV is especially hard with projectors. Unless you step up to a regular throw PJ like the JVC models with their frame by frame, Dynamic Tone Mapping - your Dolby Vision mileage may vary. I just don’t see exquisite DTM in UST projectors at this price. To me, the solution is simple. Turn off DV. There have been many instances in the past with my Sony 900F LCD TV - which has the famous Sony processing, where Amazon DV looked terrible. I just opted for the 1080P version. It doesn’t happen at all with my newer Sony A9S OLED TV.
> 
> As long as the Fengmi T1 provides a great SDR and HDR picture with very noticeable improvements in black levels and without the gas and mist of other UST projectors - I’m all in. Especially at this price range. If DV is your bag, either go with a JVC, possibly the newer Epson laser 12000 with “Scene Adaptive Gamma” or add an expensive processor like a Lumagen or better madVR Envy Pro. Otherwise, don’t expect a Dom Perignon DV experience on a beer budget. It’s all about expectations and performance relative to your buying criteria. If you’re waiting for a JVC like DTM capability in a UST projector - you’ve got a long wait ahead of you.


 What you are suggesting seems to fly in the face of the basic premise of DV, where the whole idea is that the projector isn't inventing the mapping but it is conveyed in meta data. Is it possible that if this is scene dependent but rare that there is some meta data bug or at least some specific meta data use case that is being incorrectly handled. What do the same scenes look like on an LG OLED? I'll certainly compare these when I get my T1. Reporting exact examples to Fengmi might help them track this down.


----------



## Tanizhq

Ricoflashback said:


> DV is especially hard with projectors. Unless you step up to a regular throw PJ like the JVC models with their frame by frame, Dynamic Tone Mapping - your Dolby Vision mileage may vary. I just don’t see exquisite DTM in UST projectors at this price. To me, the solution is simple. Turn off DV. There have been many instances in the past with my Sony 900F LCD TV - which has the famous Sony processing, where Amazon DV looked terrible. I just opted for the 1080P version. It doesn’t happen at all with my newer Sony A9S OLED TV.
> 
> As long as the Fengmi T1 provides a great SDR and HDR picture with very noticeable improvements in black levels and without the gas and mist of other UST projectors - I’m all in. Especially at this price range. If DV is your bag, either go with a JVC, possibly the newer Epson laser 12000 with “Scene Adaptive Gamma” or add an expensive processor like a Lumagen or better madVR Envy Pro. Otherwise, don’t expect a Dom Perignon DV experience on a beer budget. It’s all about expectations and performance relative to your buying criteria. If you’re waiting for a JVC like DTM capability in a UST projector - you’ve got a long wait ahead of you.


The issue is I don't think there were any problems with DV on the C2, only on the T1. I really wonder if it is something fixable via a firmware update or if its a hardware issue, I would buy one instnatly if this red flag (lol) wasn't there.


----------



## Ricoflashback

eezrider said:


> In
> What you are suggesting seems to fly in the face of the basic premise of DV, where the whole idea is that the projector isn't inventing the mapping but it is conveyed in meta data. Is it possible that if this is scene dependent but rare that there is some meta data bug or at least some specific meta data use case that is being incorrectly handled. What do the same scenes look like on an LG OLED? I'll certainly compare these when I get my T1. Reporting exact examples to Fengmi might help them track this down.


No. Wrong on all accounts. Any 4K display device has to interpret and process DV and handle the tone mapping and upscaling for non 4K content. If it were that easy, no one would have problems with DV and every display would look more or less the same. This is the sole reason processor companies like Lumagen and madVR are in business. It's also a way that TV/Projector manufacturers differentiate themselves.

Now - - can Fengmi get rid of the red tint issue? Hopefully, but I'm not sure. Is it an inherent issue with laser UST PJ's? Is it solely an Xiaomi and/or Appotronics (ALPD) issue on how it handles DV processing? Unknown. I'm certainly for folks reporting to Fengmi and seeing if there is a firmware fix. But the solution now is to turn off DV. And hope for a fix down the road.


----------



## Tanizhq

Can anyone with previous experience with Chinese Projectors say if they take feedback/release important firmware updates occasionally?


----------



## DeanM3

Tanizhq said:


> Can anyone with previous experience with Chinese Projectors say if they take feedback/release important firmware updates occasionally?


I have the original Xiaomi UST Laser projector (2017) and it has received multiple firmware versions over the years ( at least 4 major revisions ) . It's mostly been UI changes but they fixed eARC and other things along the way.


----------



## Ricoflashback

DeanM3 said:


> I have the original Xiaomi UST Laser projector (2017) and it has received multiple firmware versions over the years ( at least 4 major revisions ) . It's mostly been UI changes but they fixed eARC and other things along the way.


Online, web firmware updates or via USB?


----------



## DeanM3

Ricoflashback said:


> Online, web firmware updates or via USB?


All online.


----------



## Brajesh

Other than @spocky12's post here, I haven't seen f/w downloads available online to download & apply yourself however, not officially anyway. All via the projector itself. Some models receive more updates than others; only recall a single update w/my Wemax A300 since buying it it May last year. No idea what improvements were added, nothing I noticed anyway.


----------



## 3sprit

gama91 said:


> I know it's not the best, but at least it would make the matches watchable on now/dazn.. Currently it's a disaster with micro shots on the mijia 1s. Maybe importing into MEMC on the mijia, impossible right?


 Dazn sucks - it broadcasts at 25fps





DAZN - Discussione commerciale - Pagina 905


Discussione ufficiale dedicata a tutti gli aspetti commerciali e alle offerte di DAZN. Qui si potrà discutere di prezzi, promozioni e qualsiasi problematica riguardante la sottoscrizione al servizio. Update by Vianello_85 Eventuali richieste private di informazioni (tramite chat, sms...




www.digital-forum.it


----------



## lattiboy

Brajesh said:


> @lattiboy, curious if you were able to check out the same 'The Silent Sea' scenes as @pionoor w/red/purplish tints? Those look pretty horrid, and unlike any PQ screenshots you've shared.


I skimmed through the silent sea and I couldn’t find those particular scenes, but as I said earlier on some content it does have a red tint. It’s very infrequent and it isn’t just “all dark scenes” as Archive 88 looked fine and is very dark throughout. Same with all the nature documentaries I watched and with Wonder Woman 1984. All looked excellent in DV.

So, yeah, I think DV is interesting and overall a net benefit, but there are a few times I’ve disabled it because it didn’t look right. The worst case scenario is you get HDR10 instead, which the T1 handles better than any other projector I have used.

Honestly, the only thing Xaomi / Fengmi have to do is add some type of color control to DV and implement an additional custom slot. It would seem to be exceedingly simple and I hope that they do it as this is clearly a flagship model for the company and performs incredibly well otherwise. If they did those two things I don’t think there is any other issues to speak of with the PJ besides speckle, which is incredibly minimal on my eyes.


----------



## Tanizhq

DeanM3 said:


> I have the original Xiaomi UST Laser projector (2017) and it has received multiple firmware versions over the years ( at least 4 major revisions ) . It's mostly been UI changes but they fixed eARC and other things along the way.


This does inspire some hope tbh, **** it, I'm just going to get it, on a 1080p Short Throw one currently, going to be a huge upgrade even without DV


----------



## abaintor

The Xiaomi 1S 4K didn't receive any updates since I own it (1 year) so beware about updates expectations


----------



## eezrider

Here's what the referenced scenes in The Silent Sea look like on my LG OLED B9. I see the same red push (excuse the mad reflections on the screen!). Isn't this likely the director's intent? There are several scenes early in episode 5 with this same purple lighting with strong red facial tones. Can someone post an image of this scene that _doesn't _show this purple/red tint? I think maybe there is no problem here.


----------



## 3sprit

What is the source (streaming, blu-ray, etc ...)?
So might it not be T1's fault? Interesting...


----------



## DeanM3

I just watched the same scene on my LG C1 OLED in DV and it has the same reddish glow on the faces. This was the directors intent in this particular scene.


----------



## Tanizhq

You guys have got to stop scaring me like this


----------



## DeanM3

Tanizhq said:


> You guys have got to stop scaring me like this


We need to find a scene that has natural/neutral colors if we want to do a useful comparison with the T1.


----------



## humax

What about the blowing glass DV demo video? Does it have the red-Indian faces like in the NothingButLabel review?


----------



## Mareleon

@eezrider the drawer is extended and retracted using a chain window motor. these can normally be controlled like roller shutters and then combined with the appropriate smart actors.


----------



## pionoor

Thanks @DeanM3 and @eezrider for the screenshots. I definitely think the DV content has extra red tint. I just tried to play it with HDR, and it is def less intense.


















i still think there is a red tint issue with DV. Its not just the Silent Sea. I noticed it a lot, especially with skin tone, everything seems to be more reddish.

EDIT: Ive never watched DV content before. T1 is my first experience. Maybe DV is reddish inherently?


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Even with my LG TV I am using while waiting for the T1, my first experience with DV I noticed how much more warm and red things are.
I read up on it and a lot of it was "intended" for skin tone and such to be warmer than the color settings we are used too.

But I do think HDR implementations tend to over inflate saturation and colors.

True HDR is all about Dynamic Range and that is maximum values for dark and light, it really is not supposed to have anything to do with colors.
I used to do HDR photography and published actual HDR images where the colors were exactly the same as a single normal photo but while adding all the details lost in the shadows and overexposed areas. That is REAL HDR to me. 3+ different exposures compiled together to extend the dynamic range, all colors, saturation, etc remain EXACTLY the same as an original.

Then as HDR got popular and a lot of programs came out to do HDR photography, I noticed they manipulated the colors, saturation, etc greatly and make things look fake and unnatural. 

This "fake" HDR is what caught on, became popular, and is now universally known as "HDR"

So in essence "what is" and not necessarily "what is right" a good analogy I can think of is our keyboard layout.

QWERTY is a terrible layout, not nearly as efficient as Dvorak Colemak, but you are not going to see any keyboard manufacture release a better keyboard layout because even though its better its not "what is" and it would not sell or make sense to market.

I imagine at this point "what is" with HDR has gone so far, its not just the TV's and Projectors, its the actual content creators that are messing with colors and saturation when implementing HDR.


----------



## Ricoflashback

eezrider said:


> Here's what the referenced scenes in The Silent Sea look like on my LG OLED B9. I see the same red push (excuse the mad reflections on the screen!). Isn't this likely the director's intent? There are several scenes early in episode 5 with this same purple lighting with strong red facial tones. Can someone post an image of this scene that _doesn't _show this purple/red tint? I think maybe there is no problem here.
> View attachment 3226977


This is the Director's intent - - this represents 100% truth and accuracy as the artist intended. Enjoy!!!


----------



## CabbageMan

Can you guys clarify this for me. With this projector pushing a red tint in DV (which may not be as big of a deal as thought at first thanks to recent posts showing OLEDs looking similar in the scenes that looked the worst) is it just as simple as turning off DV to get the red tint to go away? So say, for example, I’m watching Avengers Endgame and DV looks red, I’d just turn off DV, it would switch to HDR10, and then there’s no more red tint?

Also, the black levels are being hyped up a lot on here. How would they compare to the Samsung LSP9T & Hisense L9G?


----------



## Brajesh

Tanizhq said:


> You guys have got to stop scaring me like this


LOL, yes . DV glass blowing clips here. Additional DV samples, and a few new HDR10+ clips I added to Kodi's AV samples wiki here.


----------



## Tanizhq

I will say for Dolby Vision there is definietly a red tint compared to the C2, but it is probably not as bad as people are making it out to be. 

Out of interest, I wonder how it would look if you used the HDFury Arcana to do LLDV -> HDR10. It is apparently better than just using HDR, but I wonder if it will still produce a red tint or not.


----------



## 3sprit




----------



## humax

CabbageMan said:


> Also, the black levels are being hyped up a lot on here. How would they compare to the Samsung LSP9T & Hisense L9G?



The C2 and T1 paired with a 0.6 CLR are the best DLP technology can do right now in terms of black level-contrast natively, namely without pumping and the artifacts of an iris. Samsung is 1800-1900 tops uncalibrated and around 1300:1 calibrated. As for the Hisense, its claims a contrast of 1500:1 and it is probably quite lower in real life. Actual differences can be seen in the clip below . The DLP haze is gone with the 3200:1 C2.

Xiaomi laser cinéma 2 versus DLP UST triple laser - YouTube


----------



## lattiboy

I am annoyed a show as aggressively stupid and disappointing as the Silent Sea has caused such a ruckus!


CabbageMan said:


> Can you guys clarify this for me. With this projector pushing a red tint in DV (which may not be as big of a deal as thought at first thanks to recent posts showing OLEDs looking similar in the scenes that looked the worst) is it just as simple as turning off DV to get the red tint to go away? So say, for example, I’m watching Avengers Endgame and DV looks red, I’d just turn off DV, it would switch to HDR10, and then there’s no more red tint?
> 
> Also, the black levels are being hyped up a lot on here. How would they compare to the Samsung LSP9T & Hisense L9G?


Correct, you just disable Dolby Vision On whatever media player you use. The service will then “fall back” to HDR10 or whatever the non-DV format is. I’ve been busy, but I think tonight I will try and show an example of this with Netflix.

The blacks are truly excellent. They really do obliterate the completion. Roughly 3x the contrast of even high end PJs like the L9. Put my HU810p to absolute shame, and that probably had the best contrast of all the non-Xaomi PJs I used and saw. Low light scenes will still have lower black levels, but that’s kind of inescapable until you’re spending 2-5x as much and getting about half the brightness.


----------



## DeanM3

Just put an hour on my newly arrived T1.

Initial impressions:

it’s huge compared to my Xiaomi 1080p laser UST
it’s significantly quieter and barely audible
sound quality is a massive improvement
Apple TV 4K color calibration tool balances color output with Dolby vision enabled. Will need to test this further but initial thoughts were that it looked more natural
As others have said, no issues with English menus as they are present everywhere
no sound output via 3.5mm with internal sound enabled
Contrast is incredible!!
Colors blow away my ALPD3.0 unit. It's not even close


----------



## Brajesh

Nice, thanks. Did you order from Chris Chen... wondering supplier she's attached to, and others are all pre-setting T1 units to English.


----------



## DeanM3

Brajesh said:


> Nice, thanks. Did you order from Chris Chen... wondering supplier she's attached to, and others are all pre-setting T1 units to English.


I did not. I ordered from WuPro. He mentioned he would test the unit first and enable English menus for me.


----------



## humax

Thank you for your input! Enjoy your new projector.




DeanM3 said:


> no sound output via 3.5mm with internal sound enabled



Bummer! I guess the only viable option to connect a SW would be a DV compatible audio extractor and that might not even work properly or use the Wemax S1 sub. Anyone tried one of these with the T1 yet?


----------



## DeanM3

humax said:


> Thank you for your input! Enjoy your new projector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bummer! I guess the only viable option to connect a SW would be a DV compatible audio extractor and that might not even work properly or use the Wemax S1 sub. Anyone tried one of these with the T1 yet?


The wemax subwoofer is discontinued. I was told the only option for this Fengmi is the Fengmi 2.1 add on with sub and surrounds.


----------



## ngcoolman

3sprit said:


>


I have seen the same video from my T1. The t1 dv settings in this video looks like office mode instead of view mode which has higher brightness but less color accurate in my opinion.


----------



## DeanM3

I’m also happy to report that RBE effect is basically non existent for me, and I was extremely sensitive to it with my old Xiaomi unit.


----------



## humax

DeanM3 said:


> The wemax subwoofer is discontinued. I was told the only option for this Fengmi is the Fengmi 2.1 add on with sub and surrounds.



Fengmi audience 120w satellite speaker surging bass 2.1 channel home theater speakers wireless connection real three-dimensional surround Sale - Banggood.com-arrival notice-arrival notice


You are talking about this one, right? Still, rather expensive for an add-on.


----------



## DeanM3

humax said:


> Fengmi audience 120w satellite speaker surging bass 2.1 channel home theater speakers wireless connection real three-dimensional surround Sale - Banggood.com-arrival notice-arrival notice
> 
> 
> You are talking about this one, right? Still, rather expensive for an add-on.


Yes that’s the one. You can get it shipped for 350 from the same suppliers in alibaba. In fact the UI of the T1 shows that unit as the only comparable speakers.


----------



## lattiboy

ngcoolman said:


> I have seen the same video from my T1. The t1 dv settings in this video looks like office mode instead of view mode which has higher brightness but less color accurate in my opinion.


Was thinking the same thing when I watched that, Office mode is purple-hued and I do not use it unless I need incredible brightness because of ambient light. You can kind of offset it with non-DV by using warm or custom color, but it still always looks a little weird.

Also,”view mode” is actually “movie mode” in the main menu, which makes sense as it has better color accuracy, lower output, and a warmer tone.


----------



## pionoor

DeanM3 said:


> Apple TV 4K color calibration tool balances color output with Dolby vision enabled. Will need to test this further but initial thoughts were that it looked more natural


Are you sure you have enabled DV? Mine doesn’t give me an option to calibrate when on Dolby Vision, it says not required


----------



## eezrider

DeanM3 said:


> Yes that’s the one. You can get it shipped for 350 from the same suppliers in alibaba. In fact the UI of the T1 shows that unit as the only comparable speakers.


I see a few suppliers on Alibaba offering it for $198 $228 plus shipping


----------



## whiskthecat

DeanM3 said:


> Happy to try my ps5 when the T1 arrives next week.


🙏 Any HDR banding? 👀


----------



## indieke2

The thing is. The Xiaomi Cinema 2 HAS DV. So you can compare that, to see the difference on BOTH units.
The T1 difference is features, let's not talk about sound, I use an amplifier, is that is supports ALSO HDR 10 +!

That is not the case on C2. So what matters is also :

How does the image on HDR 10 + compares? Is that a features that makes this so much better on this unit?
Does the 3 lasers give a real advantage, or do the let downs (spikle, reddish color) make a C 2 more interesting?

We are now in area where the PQ quality in HDR/dolby vison becomes more important, to be future-proof. I sold my Fengmi C2, just because HDR was not satisfying on most sources.

It is not only about DV, all other sources must improve over other models.


----------



## lattiboy

DeanM3 said:


> Just put an hour on my newly arrived T1.
> 
> Initial impressions:
> 
> it’s huge compared to my Xiaomi 1080p laser UST
> it’s significantly quieter and barely audible
> sound quality is a massive improvement
> Apple TV 4K color calibration tool balances color output with Dolby vision enabled. Will need to test this further but initial thoughts were that it looked more natural
> As others have said, no issues with English menus as they are present everywhere
> no sound output via 3.5mm with internal sound enabled
> Contrast is incredible!!
> Colors blow away my ALPD3.0 unit. It's not even close


Cannot recommend enough paying for (or stealing) the Blue Planet II episode 3 coral reefs. Absolutely one of the most stunning pictures I’ve ever seen, and the T1 really shows it off in a way that is breathtaking.


----------



## abaintor

Tanizhq said:


> I will say for Dolby Vision there is definietly a red tint compared to the C2, but it is probably not as bad as people are making it out to be.
> 
> Out of interest, I wonder how it would look if you used the HDFury Arcana to do LLDV -> HDR10. It is apparently better than just using HDR, but I wonder if it will still produce a red tint or not.


If you plug in HDFury with LLDV enabled I guess that you would get a dolby vision picture decoded by the source. So no dynamic metadata is sent to the projector as it is already handled but it should still announce dolby vision format to the PJ and the color tweaks would be unavailable ? Not sure of that


----------



## kapone

indieke2 said:


> The thing is. The Xiaomi Cinema 2 HAS DV. So you can compare that, to see the difference on BOTH units.
> The T1 difference is features, let's not talk about sound, I use an amplifier, is that is supports ALSO HDR 10 +!
> 
> That is not the case on C2. So what matters is also :
> 
> How does the image on HDR 10 + compares? Is that a features that makes this so much better on this unit?
> Does the 3 lasers give a real advantage, or do the let downs (spikle, reddish color) make a C 2 more interesting?
> 
> We are now in area where the PQ quality in HDR/dolby vison becomes more important, to be future-proof. I sold my Fengmi C2, just because HDR was not satisfying on most sources.
> 
> It is not only about DV, all other sources must improve over other models.


HDR10+ is Samsung's in-house version of DV. They just didn't want to pay the royalty to Dolby for DV certification. Outside Samsung's "ecosystem" few manufacturers care about HDR10+. DV is better technically than HDR10+ even though they both work similarly (they should, Samsung just copied what DV was doing).

I don't particularly care for HDR10+ (and anecdotally, any tech/standard, where a company tries to re-invent the wheel, instead of going with the mainstream. What if Samsung TVs came with non-standard HDMI jacks that were not compatible with standard HDMI...you'd blow up...  ), but hey, that's just me.


----------



## Tanizhq

abaintor said:


> If you plug in HDFury with LLDV enabled I guess that you would get a dolby vision picture decoded by the source. So no dynamic metadata is sent to the projector as it is already handled but it should still announce dolby vision format to the PJ and the color tweaks would be unavailable ? Not sure of that


Yes, but it might get rid of the red tint if the decoding is done beforehand. Who knows tbh, Maybe I will try it once I get the projector


----------



## vadom

Hi @lattiboy, do you see any CA? Is it comparable with the Polaris?


----------



## DeanM3

whiskthecat said:


> 🙏 Any banding? 👀


How should I test this?


----------



## Ricoflashback

DeanM3 said:


> How should I test this?


Panning golf shots when the camera tracks the flight of the ball from the sky to the ground. My number one banding torture test. Hockey. I’m sure others will mention scenes. I’ve heard Marco Polo is also a good test. Quite frankly - if you have the T1 and haven’t noticed anything by now - you probably don’t have banding. LCD sets were the worst until full array technology came around. OLED sets are more prone to banding with larger panel sizes.


----------



## ProjectionHead

arsenalfc89 said:


> Since some have asked to compare to the Chroma here are some screen shots after calibration. Thanks to @lattiboy for posting his pictures, which gave me a reference so you guys can compare. Please keep in mind PQ is dependent on room, screen, and other factors. I hope to get the T1 and the new Hisense to compare to the Chroma but wifey will think I’m crazy. 🤣🤣


Wanna lend me your T1 for testing and then I'll lend you one of mine (Chroma or Hisense)?


----------



## GaeIta80

lattiboy said:


> Cannot recommend enough paying for (or stealing) the Blue Planet II episode 3 coral reefs. Absolutely one of the most stunning pictures I’ve ever seen, and the T1 really shows it off in a way that is breathtaking.


Now that you have fully tested pro & cons of both T1 and Xiaomi C2, if you had to buy one of the 2 UST projector tomorrow...which one would you pick up and why? 

Thanks again!


----------



## DeanM3

Ricoflashback said:


> Panning golf shots when the camera tracks the flight of the ball from the sky to the ground. My number one banding torture test. Hockey. I’m sure others will mention scenes. I’ve heard Marco Polo is also a good test. Quite frankly - if you have the T1 and haven’t noticed anything by now - you probably don’t have banding. LCD sets were the worst until full array technology came around. OLED sets are more prone to banding with larger panel sizes.


So the only thing I can see is maybe some clipping on super white areas in HDR game content. I think this has to do more the with adjustment sliders for the HDR settings on the PS5 ( game by game basis). I'm not noticing any banding on Netflix 4K or Apple TV+ 4k content. I thought maybe you had a specific PS5 game in mind that has issues.


----------



## whiskthecat

DeanM3 said:


> How should I test this?


Make sure HDR is enabled and you've done the PS5s built-in calibration. A good torture test is the included "Astro's Playroom" game, go to the "SSD Speedway" level and look at the clouds. The performance or lack thereof will be immediately obvious. Flip back into SDR to compare.

Also, if you have Ghost of Tsushima just look up at the sky at almost any time of day/night and it will either look fantastic or literally fall to pieces, this is when I knew I had to return my last Wemax.

I didn't take any pictures but for reference, it was this bad (left side) if not worse in many games.
I'd classify it as absolutely unplayable.


----------



## CabbageMan

Has anyone found anything about this having game mode? Does it have HDMI 2.1, VRR, ALLM?


----------



## DeanM3

CabbageMan said:


> Has anyone found anything about this having game mode? Does it have HDMI 2.1, VRR, ALLM?


Game Mode is available when not in DV mode. 
HDMI 2.1 Confirmed and is a menu option you can force or put on auto. 
VRR = no as these projectors are fixed at 60hz. 
ALLM = no idea what this is


----------



## CabbageMan

DeanM3 said:


> Game Mode is available when not in DV mode.
> HDMI 2.1 Confirmed and is a menu option you can force or put on auto.
> VRR = no as these projectors are fixed at 60hz.
> ALLM = no idea what this is


Thanks. ALLM is Auto Low Latency Mode. It makes sure you are always getting the lowest latency while playing games without having to manually change settings in the menu.


----------



## DeanM3

CabbageMan said:


> Thanks. ALLM is Auto Low Latency Mode. It makes sure you are always getting the lowest latency while playing games without having to manually change settings in the menu.


Does not have this, however I can test if the picture modes are tied to the HDMI port which would help if you are using a dedicated gaming device.


----------



## Ricoflashback

DeanM3 said:


> So the only thing I can see is maybe some clipping on super white areas in HDR game content. I think this has to do more the with adjustment sliders for the HDR settings on the PS5 ( game by game basis). I'm not noticing any banding on Netflix 4K or Apple TV+ 4k content. I thought maybe you had a specific PS5 game in mind that has issues.


Sorry - not a gamer. The aforementioned golf shots for regular cable/satellite or OTA is as good a torture banding test as there is for any non-gaming content. Nice to hear that you don't see any. Thanks for looking.


----------



## lattiboy

GaeIta80 said:


> Now that you have fully tested pro & cons of both T1 and Xiaomi C2, if you had to buy one of the 2 UST projector tomorrow...which one would you pick up and why?
> 
> Thanks again!


They were never supposed to be so close in price and I’m willing to bet the T1 will go back up towards the $2800 USD msrp as Chinese supply chains get worse and the reviews on this thing get out there. I think this is like saying, “should I get a Samsung Q60 or Q90?”. The T1 is clearly their flagship product and the C1 is a step down, but still extremely good. 

For me (and I would guess most AVS posters), I would always get the T1 because once you’ve seen full gamut color it’s very difficult to go back. Also, the sound is incredible if you don’t already have a home theater system or soundbar (though I bet it’s better than many cheap sound bars)

For most people, the C1 at $2000 or so is an absolute bargain and an excellent projector. It’s got no speckle, is much smaller, and is probably more color accurate (with less color). Outside that the T1 is better in every way, but it’s supposed to be at the prices they were originally listed at.


----------



## CabbageMan

lattiboy said:


> They were never supposed to be so close in price and I’m willing to bet the T1 will go back up towards the $2800 USD msrp as Chinese supply chains get worse and the reviews on this thing get out there. I think this is like saying, “should I get a Samsung Q60 or Q90?”. The T1 is clearly their flagship product and the C1 is a step down, but still extremely good.
> 
> For me (and I would guess most AVS posters), I would always get the T1 because once you’ve seen full gamut color it’s very difficult to go back. Also, the sound is incredible if you don’t already have a home theater system or soundbar (though I bet it’s better than many cheap sound bars)
> 
> For most people, the C1 at $2000 or so is an absolute bargain and an excellent projector. It’s got no speckle, is much smaller, and is probably more color accurate (with less color). Outside that the T1 is better in every way, but it’s supposed to be at the prices they were originally listed at.


I just got quoted by Chris Chen for $2,130 and $200 shipping to the US so that price still seems to be the going rate if you contact them. I want to pull the trigger but am just a little weary about the thought of something being wrong with it and also never actually seeing it in person.


----------



## doveph7

Hey, great thread, you just convinced me to order one 
Quick one : my T1 will be connected to my AVR, can the T1 speaker be used as a central speaker in a like 7.1 configuration ?


----------



## lattiboy

CabbageMan said:


> I just got quoted by Chris Chen for $2,130 and $200 shipping to the US so that price still seems to be the going rate if you contact them. I want to pull the trigger but am just a little weary about the thought of something being wrong with it and also never actually seeing it in person.


I fully understand, and it is a big purchase to make, but if there is something wrong with it any reputable Chinese seller will issue a refund or exchange. You might be on the hook for $200 shipping fees, but it is highly unlikely you would be left holding the bag for the whole thing.

Alibaba is an enormous company and they have a very robust buyer protection system. I’ve now ordered 3 PJs from them (2 different sellers) and everything arrived in about a week and works great. Sellers have all checked in on me to make sure I got it and I’ve left feedback.


----------



## lattiboy

doveph7 said:


> Hey, great thread, you just convinced me to order one
> Quick one : my T1 will be connected to my AVR, can the T1 speaker be used as a central speaker in a like 7.1 configuration ?


No, internal sound or external output but not both.


----------



## DeanM3

CabbageMan said:


> I just got quoted by Chris Chen for $2,130 and $200 shipping to the US so that price still seems to be the going rate if you contact them. I want to pull the trigger but am just a little weary about the thought of something being wrong with it and also never actually seeing it in person.


After putting some hours on mine, it's just a no-brainer at that price. I've mostly been a JVC guy for the last 10 years and these Chinese projectors are getting dangerously close in performance. In fact at $2130 it shouldn't even be in the same conversation.


----------



## GaeIta80

lattiboy said:


> They were never supposed to be so close in price and I’m willing to bet the T1 will go back up towards the $2800 USD msrp as Chinese supply chains get worse and the reviews on this thing get out there. I think this is like saying, “should I get a Samsung Q60 or Q90?”. The T1 is clearly their flagship product and the C1 is a step down, but still extremely good.
> 
> For me (and I would guess most AVS posters), I would always get the T1 because once you’ve seen full gamut color it’s very difficult to go back. Also, the sound is incredible if you don’t already have a home theater system or soundbar (though I bet it’s better than many cheap sound bars)
> 
> For most people, the C1 at $2000 or so is an absolute bargain and an excellent projector. It’s got no speckle, is much smaller, and is probably more color accurate (with less color). Outside that the T1 is better in every way, but it’s supposed to be at the prices they were originally listed at.


Hey mate, thanks for the nice comparison...all you say makes sense, I guess both are premium UST projectors...but since it's a €2k buying, just trying to make the most cost/effective move.

Funny enough, I found the T1 at €2.132 shipping from EU next week (7 days delivery) and the C2 at €2.247 shipping from China (7-14 days delivery).

What is stopping my T1 purchase is speckle, random strong red tint in DV and MEMC nor working on DV...


----------



## humax

GaeIta80 said:


> Funny enough, I found the T1 at €2.132 shipping from EU next week (7 days delivery) and the C2 at €2.247 shipping from China



This is lower than the Banggood price for the T1. Are taxes included? Would you care to share the seller?


----------



## abaintor

Tanizhq said:


> Yes, but it might get rid of the red tint if the decoding is done beforehand. Who knows tbh, Maybe I will try it once I get the projector


Yes and you might win the MEMC too as it seems not to be working in dolby vision mode.
The hdfury trick may be a nice hack after all


----------



## Ricoflashback

DeanM3 said:


> After putting some hours on mine, it's just a no-brainer at that price. I've mostly been a JVC guy for the last 10 years and these Chinese projectors are getting dangerously close in performance. In fact at $2130 it shouldn't even be in the same conversation.


Whoa - be very, very careful. Your JVC membership is on thin ice. It may be revoked at any time. Just kidding. I think. I value your observations and posts. Especially coming from the JVC world. Not that these PJ’s are in the same league as JVC. But for the first time - black levels and no gas with a DLP projector. There is something special going on with ALPD 4.0 technology AND the way that Fengmi is implementing their processing. All very exciting. What will Fengmi do for an encore?


----------



## GaeIta80

humax said:


> This is lower than the Banggood price for the T1. Are taxes included? Would you care to share the seller?


Nothingbutlabel.com, selecting EU warehouse (taxes, shipping included)


----------



## humax

DeanM3 said:


> After putting some hours on mine, it's just a no-brainer at that price. I've mostly been a JVC guy for the last 10 years and these Chinese projectors are getting dangerously close in performance. In fact at $2130 it shouldn't even be in the same conversation.



What JVC models did you own? Where do you think a JVC still has the upper hand in comparison to the T1? Torture/ dark scenes?


----------



## DeanM3

Ricoflashback said:


> Whoa - be very, very careful. Your JVC membership is on thin ice. It may be revoked at any time. Just kidding. I think. I value your observations and posts. Especially coming from the JVC world. Not that these PJ’s are in the same league as JVC. But for the first time - black levels and no gas with a DLP projector. There is something special going on with ALPD 4.0 technology AND the way that Fengmi is implementing their processing. All very exciting. What will Fengmi do for an encore?


Just keeping it real.... I spent 8K on a JVC projector about 5 years ago and the wow factor out of the box for T1 is a pretty similar experience. At the end of the day we are buying these things to have an incredible theater experience at home and for $2100 the T1 bang for the buck is off the charts.


----------



## humax

GaeIta80 said:


> Nothingbutlabel.com, selecting EU warehouse (taxes, shipping included)



Thank you for sharing, but is it certain this price includes VAT and taxes like the Bangggod price?


----------



## Ricoflashback

humax said:


> Thank you for sharing, but is it certain this price includes VAT and taxes like the Bangggod price?


Are you sure that the Banggood price includes taxes for all countries shipped to? I’ve bought Chinese electronics before through Amazon and there was no issue with taxes or customs. I’m not sure with other sellers. Who is the carrier - DHL?


----------



## DeanM3

humax said:


> What JVC models did you own? Where do you think a JVC still has the upper hand in comparison to the T1? Torture/ dark scenes?


My first JVC was a RS-35U (2010?). I upgraded to a DLA-X770R(2018) and have been running that since in a dedicated theater room (I've also replaced lamps for both units). The JVC has an incredible film like image, with a deeper black floor and doesn't crush the black detail like these Chinese DLP projectors. The complete lack of any RBE or speckle near high contrast edges gives it a smoother image. There is a particular look to the JVC output that is just incredibly pleasing.

All that being said, the barrier of entry to these T1 units is so low, and gets you so much of the way there, that they needed to be taken seriously from here on out. You could get a T1 and a $7,000 Atmos system for the same price as the mid range current JVC.


----------



## GaeIta80

humax said:


> Thank you for sharing, but is it certain this price includes VAT and taxes like the Bangggod price?


That's what I have been told since it's technically shipped from a EU country (stocked in BE) so no customer tax applies...


----------



## DeanM3

Weighing in after I put a bunch of hours of my T1 last night. There is certainly a red shift in DV content ( light or dark mode, no difference). It most scenes it's minor and barely noticeable, but in others where there is heavy red content on screen it is noticeable. There is no way to currently fix that with any of the settings in the current firmware. I'm just confirming this ( 2nd or 3rd person here?) so every one can make their own informed decisions based on their needs. Regular HDR unaffected. 

Also, this projector is crazy bright. I'm not using a ALR screen yet ( coming soon ) , but at 100" I need to have the output mode on night mode as to not be blinding in a dark room. With a ALR and a higher output mode this thing should shine in a lit room.

MEMC is just barf for me. Even on low it ruins the experience for me for any film content.


----------



## Tanizhq

DeanM3 said:


> MEMC is just barf for me. Even on low it ruins the experience for me for any film content.


Yeah the MEMC missing on DV makes no difference to me, I hate using it anyway, its like Motion Blur in video games, instantly turn it off haha


----------



## GaeIta80

DeanM3 said:


> Weighing in after I put a bunch of hours of my T1 last night. There is certainly a red shift in DV content ( light or dark mode, no difference). It most scenes it's minor and barely noticeable, but in others where there is heavy red content on screen it is noticeable. There is no way to currently fix that with any of the settings in the current firmware. I'm just confirming this ( 2nd or 3rd person here?) so every one can make their own informed decisions based on their needs. Regular HDR unaffected.
> 
> Also, this projector is crazy bright. I'm not using a ALR screen yet ( coming soon ) , but at 100" I need to have the output mode on night mode as to not be blinding in a dark room. With a ALR and a higher output mode this thing should shine in a lit room.
> 
> MEMC is just barf for me. Even on low it ruins the experience for me for any film content.


I do believe Fengmi can do something to fix the red tint thing via a firmware update...the Xiaomi C2 doesn't suffer the same issue and they are very similar machines...so hopefully this can be tweaked soon via software


----------



## 3sprit

Ricoflashback said:


> Are you sure that the Banggood price includes taxes for all countries shipped to? I’ve bought Chinese electronics before through Amazon and there was no issue with taxes or customs. I’m not sure with other sellers. Who is the carrier - DHL?


For Europeans, customs and taxes are included


----------



## GaeIta80

Well Greg just mentioned there is going to be a T1 Global version in April 2022...interesting news 🙂


----------



## DeanM3

GaeIta80 said:


> Well Greg just mentioned there is going to be a T1 Global version in April 2022...interesting news 🙂


That might be a double edged sword. In the past Xiaomi ( Wemax, Fenghmi Etc) has removed features for international versions.


----------



## GaeIta80

DeanM3 said:


> That might be a double edged sword. In the past Xiaomi ( Wemax, Fenghmi Etc) has removed features for international versions.


True but doesn't seem like there are many available right now on the Chinese version in terms of image tweaking, apart 1 Custom Image settings...all others are predefined


----------



## Tanizhq

GaeIta80 said:


> Well Greg just mentioned there is going to be a T1 Global version in April 2022...interesting news 🙂


What would the difference even be? All the menus and sub-menus are already in English


----------



## CabbageMan

GaeIta80 said:


> Well Greg just mentioned there is going to be a T1 Global version in April 2022...interesting news 🙂


Where did you see that? is it on another thread?


----------



## GaeIta80

Tanizhq said:


> What would the difference even be? All the menus and sub-menus are already in English


Greg confirmed mounting Android TV OS...for example


----------



## GaeIta80

CabbageMan said:


> Where did you see that? is it on another thread?





Fengmi Formovie T1 : un projecteur triple laser ultra courte focale avec support Dolby Vision. – – Le Blog de PHC –


----------



## lattiboy

DeanM3 said:


> My first JVC was a RS-35U (2010?). I upgraded to a DLA-X770R(2018) and have been running that since in a dedicated theater room (I've also replaced lamps for both units). The JVC has an incredible film like image, with a deeper black floor and doesn't crush the black detail like these Chinese DLP projectors. The complete lack of any RBE or speckle near high contrast edges gives it a smoother image. There is a particular look to the JVC output that is just incredibly pleasing.
> 
> All that being said, the barrier of entry to these T1 units is so low, and gets you so much of the way there, that they needed to be taken seriously from here on out. You could get a T1 and a $7,000 Atmos system for the same price as the mid range current JVC.


Although I’ve only had limited chances to see JVC and Sony PJs over the years, they are obviously superior for a “proper” theater setup. I think what many people miss is that they are substantially dimmer and you are really limited to a proper light controlled environment to enjoy the sort of subtle PQ details you’re paying for.

For instance, the flagship JVC NZ9 is rated at 3000 lumens. Calibrated output is about 20% off that, but when you want full BT2020 it loses about 30% output. Now, lose 20% more if you’re using optical zoom and you’re likely left with sub-1000 lumens output. For TWENTY FIVE THOUSAND DOLLARS.

Nobody has done proper measurements on the T1, but I’m pretty sure calibrated HDR will be well above 2200 lumens with full BT2020.


----------



## 3sprit

Tanizhq said:


> What would the difference even be? All the menus and sub-menus are already in English


 There are other languages: for example French…


----------



## Tanizhq

GaeIta80 said:


> Greg confirmed mounting Android TV OS...for example


Ah okay, guess if you use a streaming device already, it probably isn't worth waiting for


----------



## abaintor

GaeIta80 said:


> Fengmi Formovie T1 : un projecteur triple laser ultra courte focale avec support Dolby Vision. – – Le Blog de PHC –


No this is the Chinese model he is talking about. No international model announcement


----------



## kraine

The Fengmi T1 will arrive in an international version in April 2022 (with a choice of several languages and OS adapted to the European market).


----------



## Malaveae

It seems that Fengmi T1 (ALPD 4.0 RGB+ = 20.000 hrs) is less reliable regarding their tri-laser against the Xioami C2 (ALPD 4.0 RB+ = 25.000 hrs). Does T1 have laser settings? How does perfomed with lower laser settings?


----------



## zoomx2

kraine said:


> The Fengmi T1 will arrive in an international version in April 2022 (with a choice of several languages and OS adapted to the European market).


It makes sense since now Chinese version build in many tv dramas, movies in it. The voice assistant also no good for any other languages.


----------



## humax

lattiboy said:


> For instance, the flagship JVC NZ9 is rated at 3000 lumens. Calibrated output is about 20% off that, but when you want full BT2020 it loses about 30% output. Now, lose 20% more if you’re using optical zoom and you’re likely left with sub-1000 lumens output. For TWENTY FIVE THOUSAND DOLLARS.



JVC DLA-NZ9 8K D-ILA Projector Review Page 2 | Sound & Vision (soundandvision.com) 

The JVC has no DV and it is just a blue laser model with color filter. According to this review, it hits 98% of DCI-P3 and just 87% of REC.2020. Of course, it has much better contrast and optics as well as 8k E-shift, but for this kind of money (10 times more than the T1) it should be at least a tri-laser and also have integrated a top quality coffee and popcorn maker.


----------



## Brajesh

kraine said:


> The Fengmi T1 will arrive in an international version in April 2022 (with a choice of several languages and OS adapted to the European market).


Nice. Hope we'll be able to apply the int'l firmware to the Chinese import units.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Malaveae said:


> It seems that Fengmi T1 (ALPD 4.0 RGB+ = 20.000 hrs) is less reliable regarding their tri-laser against the Xioami C2 (ALPD 4.0 RB+ = 25.000 hrs). Does T1 have laser settings? How does perfomed with lower laser settings?


Are you really worried about 20K hours versus 25K hours? Everything else in the projector will break down well before then. Unless you have it going 24 X 7 X 365 in a store, you'll be on to another projector well before 20K hours.


----------



## lattiboy

humax said:


> JVC DLA-NZ9 8K D-ILA Projector Review Page 2 | Sound & Vision (soundandvision.com)
> 
> The JVC has no DV and it is just a blue laser model with color filter. According to this review, it hits 98% of DCI-P3 and just 87% of REC.2020. Of course, it has much better contrast and optics as well as 8k E-shift, but for this kind of money (10 times more than the T1) it should be at least a tri-laser and also have integrated a top quality coffee and popcorn maker.


At that price it should come with a brick of black tar heroin!


----------



## GaeIta80

Tanizhq said:


> Ah okay, guess if you use a streaming device already, it probably isn't worth waiting for


Yeah I got a Firestick 4k Max so won't need it


----------



## eezrider

lattiboy said:


> At that price it should come with a brick of black tar heroin!


So that explains why it's so heavy... 🙂


----------



## DeanM3

The T1’s OS (when connected to the internet) has a built in feedback system to report issues. One of them is “bad colors”, so if you have a unit now go ahead and submit as I did.


----------



## loco_motion

I just recieved my T1 yesterday and was playing a video by plugging in an SSD drive directly to the USB port. During play back I get occasional horizontal white lines. Attached is a screen grab from a video I took. I also get this with my Nvidia shield plugged in via HDMI. The settings are factory default. Is this common and is there a way to fix it?







Did I get a lemon and need to get my unit exchanged?


----------



## Brajesh

Have you verified this isn't in the source video, and if not, have you tried a different HDMI cable? You also mentioned plugging in your Shield TV; if you haven't tried yet, plug it directly to the T1's HDMI port w/o going via the AVR if it's in the chain.


----------



## loco_motion

Brajesh said:


> Have you verified this isn't in the source video, and if not, have you tried a different HDMI cable? You also mentioned plugging in your Shield TV; if you haven't tried yet, plug it directly to the T1's HDMI port w/o going via the AVR if it's in the chain.


My Nvidia shield is directly connected to the T1 HDMI and I even saw it on flash a white line when on the NVIDIA Shield menu when not playing back so it's not the source video. I don't think it is the HDMI cable since I saw it when playing directly with a SSD drive connected to the T1 USB port. For good measure I will try another HDMI cable and different videos.


----------



## Ricoflashback

loco_motion said:


> My Nvidia shield is directly connected to the T1 HDMI and I even saw it on flash a white line when on the NVIDIA Shield menu when not playing back so it's not the source video. I don't think it is the HDMI cable since I saw it when playing directly with a SSD drive connected to the T1 USB port. For good measure I will try another HDMI cable and different videos.


Does the Fengmi T1 have any internal "native" apps? If you have a white line flashing and it's present internally - - even with the menus, then you've got a bum unit. Try to eliminate any other source or cabling issue. I would think that if the menus are clean then it's your HDMI cable or the port and not the display. And since there are multiple HDMI ports, try each one, as well. What type of HDMI cables are you using? Their length? That's my best guess.

P.S. - you sure your screen doesn't have a kitty scratch? Just kidding. Trying to make the best of an unpleasant situation. Best of luck to you.


----------



## ufokillerz

Ordered from chris Chen, Was told it shipped on 1/18... but i can't get a tracking number from him/her since then. its 1/22 morning in China now..


----------



## loco_motion

Ricoflashback said:


> Does the Fengmi T1 have any internal "native" apps? If you have a white line flashing and it's present internally - - even with the menus, then you've got a bum unit. Try to eliminate any other source or cabling issue. I would think that if the menus are clean then it's your HDMI cable or the port and not the display. And since there are multiple HDMI ports, try each one, as well. What type of HDMI cables are you using? Their length? That's my best guess.
> 
> P.S. - you sure your screen doesn't have a kitty scratch? Just kidding. Trying to make the best of an unpleasant situation. Best of luck to you.


I appreciate the levity! Unfortunately no cats and I don’t even have a screen installed yet. The white lines showed up even playing a file directly from the native player using a usb flash drive. 

I will test it out with the built in YouTube app but regardless will bring it to the shop to resolve the issue. Hope no one else has this problem.


----------



## Adamgoodapp

ufokillerz said:


> Ordered from chris Chen, Was told it shipped on 1/18... but i can't get a tracking number from him/her since then. its 1/22 morning in China now..


This is exactly what they told me. Well, they have two days left until I get a $100 discount for late shipping.


----------



## Adamgoodapp

I just got the tracking number, bought from Chris Chen. However it says labeled was created but yet to be picked up. Seems like the same trick that happened to another member here so the seller does not end up giving discount on late shipping. AliBaba should address this loop hole.


----------



## lattiboy

Adamgoodapp said:


> I just got the tracking number, bought from Chris Chen. However it says labeled was created but yet to be picked up. Seems like the same trick that happened to another member here so the seller does not end up giving discount on late shipping. AliBaba should address this loop hole.


Once my package was actually shipped it took 48 hours to be delivered to Seattle. Hopefully that happens for you folks too. I will say communication was not super quick with them, but I received it a few days earlier than I expected to.


----------



## phchrono

Hi everyone, to those who own the T1, does it heat up? Can you measure the temperature of your T1 at the hottest place or at the air outlet? and told me your room temperature. I would like to compare it to my Polaris. Thank you


----------



## tovaxxx

I could still return the Xiaomi C2 and get the T1 for the same price. Should I do that? Or rather not because of the red problem?


----------



## GaeIta80

tovaxxx said:


> I could still return the Xiaomi C2 and get the T1 for the same price. Should I do that? Or rather not because of the red problem?


Wouldn't you pay shipping fees to CN and back again?


----------



## ngcoolman

phchrono said:


> Hi everyone, to those who own the T1, does it heat up? Can you measure the temperature of your T1 at the hottest place or at the air outlet? and told me your room temperature. I would like to compare it to my Polaris. Thank you


I don't have anything at hand to measure the temperature. However, I have never heard the fan spinning. I think the t1 temperature is fine. The room temperature is about 20C.


----------



## tovaxxx

GaeIta80 said:


> Wouldn't you pay shipping fees to CN and back again?


Yes. 50 €. But at the end it's the same price for both.


----------



## DeanM3

phchrono said:


> Hi everyone, to those who own the T1, does it heat up? Can you measure the temperature of your T1 at the hottest place or at the air outlet? and told me your room temperature. I would like to compare it to my Polaris. Thank you


The T1 runs surprisingly cool and quiet. The fan noise is less than my laptop…..


----------



## DeanM3

lattiboy said:


> Once my package was actually shipped it took 48 hours to be delivered to Seattle. Hopefully that happens for you folks too. I will say communication was not super quick with them, but I received it a few days earlier than I expected to.


Mine took 7 business days once it was finally picked up. I think you were lucky. Mine sat in Alaska for a while clearing import customs.


----------



## Brajesh

Seems all of us who ordered from Chris Chen are in the same situation. Ordered mine 1/8, and was given one excuse at their end, and after getting the tracking # 4 days ago, she's telling me it's now a DHL delay .


----------



## GaeIta80

tovaxxx said:


> Yes. 50 €. But at the end it's the same price for both.


Not sure I would swap the C2 now, it seems less "colorful" but no issues with DV, Game Mode or speckle...T1 pitfalls so far


----------



## DeanM3

GaeIta80 said:


> Not sure I would swap the C2 now, it seems less "colorful" but no issues with DV, Game Mode or speckle...T1 pitfalls so far


Coming from another ALPD3.0 UST I can tell you that more “colorful” does not describe it. The T1 is a huge improvement in colors and makes the image really pop. I also don’t have any issues with game mode on mine, and don’t notice any speckle.


----------



## GaeIta80

DeanM3 said:


> Coming from another ALPD3.0 UST I can tell you that more “colorful” does not describe it. The T1 is a huge improvement in colors and makes the image really pop. I also don’t have any issues with game mode on mine, and don’t notice any speckle.


Sorry mate, coming from the old good LED pj LG 70HULA so no experience with any UST till now...so if you had to pick one, you would go 100% T1 (hoping the will fix the DV tint issue)?


----------



## Ricoflashback

This write-up of the Fengmi T1 isn’t earth shattering but still an interesting review nonetheless. Note that the writer is using a plain wall for projection. Not optimal but something I might have to do when we temporarily move in a couple months to an apartment before we find a house. But that’s not gonna stop me from getting this bad boy.



https://min.news/en/home/80fda58ddff399c020fa5f10776ecf5e.html


----------



## Kev1000000

The only thing holding me back from purchasing is understanding how much laser speckle there actually is (compared to the L9G) and what the input lag is in both non-game mode and game mode. Does anyone have any info on these?


----------



## phchrono

Thank *ngcoolman *and*DeanM3 *for your opinions. 
I want to be sure about the noise because the Polaris is terribly quiet and does not heat up at all. This is important because depending on the ambient temperature, it can damage the projector (Xiaomi for example, I have experienced it)
My measurements with an ambient temperature of 21° I have 30° maximum on the device.
I hesitate to take this T1 now or wait when I move next year because I will have air conditioning.
Maybe in a year there will be a better one lol


----------



## GaeIta80

Kev1000000 said:


> The only thing holding me back from purchasing is understanding how much laser speckle there actually is (compared to the L9G) and what the input lag is in both non-game mode and game mode. Does anyone have any info on these?


No info about Game/Non Game Mode but if we take the Xiaomi C2 as a benchmark it's 35.5ms (GM) vs 150.8ms (no GM)...


----------



## ufokillerz

Brajesh said:


> Seems all of us who ordered from Chris Chen are in the same situation. Ordered mine 1/8, and was given one excuse at their end, and after getting the tracking # 4 days ago, she's telling me it's now a DHL delay .


guess thats like 4-5 of us at least that could possibly leave negative feedback or something? first time on alibaba, so i'm not sure how that works. i got thrown a blank dhl tracking number late also, and they did something that had me accept, can't get a discount anymore...


----------



## eezrider

ufokillerz said:


> guess thats like 4-5 of us at least that could possibly leave negative feedback or something? first time on alibaba, so i'm not sure how that works. i got thrown a blank dhl tracking number late also, and they did something that had me accept, can't get a discount anymore...


Well, I just received an update from DHL indicating it's been picked up, so things are moving finally. Looking forward to comparing it to my Polaris...


----------



## Malaveae

Ricoflashback said:


> Are you really worried about 20K hours versus 25K hours? Everything else in the projector will break down well before then. Unless you have it going 24 X 7 X 365 in a store, you'll be on to another projector well before 20K hours.


Well my comment was mainly toward to reliability and heat management of this units. Xioami has some history about it with their Miija (white vertical lines) and was corrected with the 1S and they are also maintaining the same housing design in the C2. The T1 tri-laser technology + 2800 lumens needs a better heat managment system, and hoping that Fengmi does not screw it up. Is my first time I´m importing this unit from China and their warranty time of one year is something I need to swallow.


----------



## jeff9n

Malaveae said:


> Well my comment was mainly toward to reliability and heat management of this units. Xioami has some history about it with their Miija (white vertical lines) and was corrected with the 1S and they are also maintaining the same housing design in the C2. The T1 tri-laser technology + 2800 lumens needs a better heat managment system, and hoping that Fengmi does not screw it up. Is my first time I´m importing this unit from China and their warranty time of one year is something I need to swallow.


The original Xiaomi 4K UST does have the heat issue causing white vertical lines. That happened to me too. I am sure they have learned from that design flaw. The new Xiaomi C2 and Fengmi T1 are much bigger units. Bigger space for better air flow.


----------



## humax

jeff9n said:


> The original Xiaomi 4K UST does have the heat issue causing white vertical lines. That happened to me too.


Xiaomi 4K Laser UST Projector Repair (white vertical lines) - projectorjunkies 

If you have not fixed it yet, here is how.


----------



## Ricoflashback

humax said:


> Xiaomi 4K Laser UST Projector Repair (white vertical lines) - projectorjunkies
> 
> If you have not fixed it yet, here is how.


Xiaomi should hire that guy.


----------



## humax

Ricoflashback said:


> Xiaomi should hire that guy.


Yes, he is probably the best projector technician in Greece.


----------



## ACE844

ufokillerz said:


> guess thats like 4-5 of us at least that could possibly leave negative feedback or something? first time on alibaba, so i'm not sure how that works. i got thrown a blank dhl tracking number late also, and they did something that had me accept, can't get a discount anymore...


You guys are up against CN Lunar New year...nothings going anywhere fast for at least 2 weeks.


----------



## arsenalfc89

ProjectionHead said:


> Wanna lend me your T1 for testing and then I'll lend you one of mine (Chroma or Hisense)?


I don’t mind doing that but haven’t received the T1 yet. I actually just purchased the Hisense.


----------



## jeff9n

humax said:


> Xiaomi 4K Laser UST Projector Repair (white vertical lines) - projectorjunkies
> 
> If you have not fixed it yet, here is how.


Thank for the info. I bought the replacement part from him and fixed the issue.


----------



## Brajesh

Not sure if this has been mentioned, but Gregory suggested using HDMI 2.0 mode (vs. Auto or 2.1):


> [_Google translated_] I also have some doubts about the tint of red which would be limited only to Dolby Vision. Be careful when choosing the HDMI socket, for me the Dolby Vision only worked correctly by positioning the HDMI socket in 2.0 format (not auto, nor HDMI 2.1).


Anyone seeing reddish tint try this? May be same w/T1 as it's w/C2.


----------



## ProjectionHead

arsenalfc89 said:


> I don’t mind doing that but haven’t received the T1 yet. I actually just purchased the Hisense.


Appotronics has been hitting me up for a while but they won't give me a sweet enough deal on a demo unit for me to bite quite yet. I'm keeping my eyes on this thread to see if it's worth picking one up, even if I may not end up carrying the line.


----------



## Brajesh

I'd pay a bit more to buy from a U.S.-based retailer.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Brajesh said:


> I'd pay a bit more to buy from a U.S.-based retailer.


Perhaps enough interest here for me to bring in a small batch at a discount below the Banggood price? I’d do it primarily to get as much user feedback as possible to see if up to my standards for inclusion in our catalog.
Downside is I’m not sure what type of support I’d get if any problems from overseas so it’d be “at your own risk”. - I don’t want to jeapordize my stellar reputation in any way


----------



## Brajesh

I have mine finally now on the way from China. Can't speak for new buyers interested, but what you're proposing sounds fair as long as you can take responsibility for any DOA units.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Brajesh said:


> I have mine finally now on the way from China. Can't speak for new buyers interested, but what you're proposing sounds fair as long as you can take responsibility for any DOA units.


When I deal with USA based brands, I can count on getting legit support and service.
The challenge I have getting involved with Fengmi/Xgimi/Xioami is that I don’t expect the same level of product quality or after sales support. 
Perhaps I’m being too pessimistic, but there are lots of items I won’t sell or have dropped from our site for those very reasons. 
I certainly don’t want to be on the hook for any DOA items that I bring in for y’all when there’s nothing in it for me other than getting your feedback.
Stick with Banggood and I’ll just lurk hear and see what you say


----------



## Brajesh

Hope Fengmi/Xioami/Wemax start offering these UST's for int'l/U.S. markets. They must be noticing all the interest.


----------



## Tanizhq

Brajesh said:


> Anyone seeing reddish tint try this? May be same w/T1 as it's w/C2.


I am very curious about this too


----------



## Xspearo

Hi, anyone with the T1. Is it possible to turn it on and off with something like the Nvidia shield remote?


----------



## lattiboy

Tanizhq said:


> I am very curious about this too


I will test tonight with my roku and see if there is any effect. I think I was using 2.0 already, but I’m not sure


----------



## lattiboy

Xspearo said:


> Hi, anyone with the T1. Is it possible to turn it on and off with something like the Nvidia shield remote?


Turns on fine, but I’ve had a weird issue where the screen is black but the PJ is still on when turning off with all devices. Roku, Nvidia, and PS4. Not sure if I have power save settings wrong or something


----------



## Xspearo

lattiboy said:


> Turns on fine, but I’ve had a weird issue where the screen is black but the PJ is still on when turning off with all devices. Roku, Nvidia, and PS4. Not sure if I have power save settings wrong or something


Great, Thank you! I believe after reading through this thread that you also have/had the VAVA Chroma and also looked at the PX1-PRO, do you think the T1 is way ahead of them?

Also is there any measurement on input lag for gaming?


----------



## slickrock

To Xiaomi/Fengmi folks who happen to project on walls or who overshoot-project on scope screens (e.g. 2.35 aspect), *can you see the black bars on the wall with letterbox content? *

This was something I was able to do long ago with an JVC RS10 with a scope screen and would zoom the projector so the black bars would overscan on off-white walls and the bars where dark enough to not draw the eye to them, leaving the letterbox to fit the scope screen. Of course the is no zoom with the T1, so I would have to build some kind of platform ramp to slide the project further way with declination as well to keep the horizontal axis constant.


----------



## lattiboy

Brajesh said:


> Not sure if this has been mentioned, but Gregory suggested using HDMI 2.0 mode (vs. Auto or 2.1):
> 
> Anyone seeing reddish tint try this? May be same w/T1 as it's w/C2.


I just tested and there is no perceivable difference between 2.1 , auto, and 2.0.


----------



## flyguyjake

From Appotronics 2019 Annual Report

"During the reporting period, we released ALPD® 4.0, which has been applied in many product series. At present, we are focusing on the development of *ALPD® 5.0*. This upgrading will not only increase the dynamic contrast and peak luminance of laser display equipment, and reduce the luminance of dark field, but also maintain relatively high light effect and high cost-performance ratio. The products for *mass production applying ALPD® 5.0 are expected to be launched on the market in 2021*"


----------



## Rob79

flyguyjake said:


> From Appotronics 2019 Annual Report
> 
> "During the reporting period, we released ALPD® 4.0, which has been applied in many product series. At present, we are focusing on the development of *ALPD® 5.0*. This upgrading will not only increase the dynamic contrast and peak luminance of laser display equipment, and reduce the luminance of dark field, but also maintain relatively high light effect and high cost-performance ratio. The products for *mass production applying ALPD® 5.0 are expected to be launched on the market in 2021*"


Yes, that was the plan. DAMN you Covid-19 with you delaying ALPD 5.0 from us.


----------



## lattiboy

I understand people waiting for the next big thing, but it really can’t be overstated how good the contrast and colors are on the T1. I feel like I’ve been kind of overstating the issues with speckle and whatnot. It’s insanely good. Colors are about as good as the human eye can see, and red tint in DV just isn’t as big an issue as it’s been made out to be. Contrast is as good as you’ll find with such good colors.

If your budget is $5000 or less I just can’t think of anything that competes with this. Hell, go to $10,000 and it’s unlikely that you’re going to find anything nearly as bright or with such rich color. If anybody can give me a model that competes with this thing, I’m all ears.


----------



## indieke2

lattiboy said:


> I understand people waiting for the next big thing, but it really can’t be overstated how good the contrast and colors are on the T1. I feel like I’ve been kind of overstating the issues with speckle and whatnot. It’s insanely good. Colors are about as good as the human eye can see, and red tint in DV just isn’t as big an issue as it’s been made out to be. Contrast is as good as you’ll find with such good colors.
> 
> If your budget is $5000 or less I just can’t think of anything that competes with this. Hell, go to $10,000 and it’s unlikely that you’re going to find anything nearly as bright or with such rich color. If anybody can give me a model that competes with this thing, I’m all ears.


It is good to hear that. But no, you cannot wait always for the next big thing. But... I had to sell my Fengmi C 2, because it was not future proof. HDR, was problematic. And even if Greg saw no issue, ask the users. Fantastic in SDR, light dropping in HDR. And putting more contrast not always helps. depends on source, but the on board player, already did not handle HDR well. So that is no human error.

So now, I want a projector for years. 4K, All the HDR modes, rendered well, without changing the settings every time. No red color on DV. The Xiaomi not has the reddish color on DV, and supports it also. The price difference is not an issue. It is not reported to have issues. So, if the T 1, has a bit better contrast, renders HDR 10 + perfectly (is it so bad on the XIAOMI?), is it worth to choose that model, if there are issues on DV?


----------



## Xspearo

lattiboy said:


> I understand people waiting for the next big thing, but it really can’t be overstated how good the contrast and colors are on the T1. I feel like I’ve been kind of overstating the issues with speckle and whatnot. It’s insanely good. Colors are about as good as the human eye can see, and red tint in DV just isn’t as big an issue as it’s been made out to be. Contrast is as good as you’ll find with such good colors.
> 
> If your budget is $5000 or less I just can’t think of anything that competes with this. Hell, go to $10,000 and it’s unlikely that you’re going to find anything nearly as bright or with such rich color. If anybody can give me a model that competes with this thing, I’m all ears.


I currently have the PX1-PRO and I believe colors really pop and are very vibrant compared to the Optoma PX2. However on the PX1-PRO, I feel the blacks lack detail. Not sure if it's the settings I have tho. I'm hoping someone post some good settings.

One thing I do really love about the PX1-PRO is how clean the interface looks and feels, also that the remote controls my Nvidia shield and Sonos surround sound. 

I think I'm going to just pull the trigger and get a T1 and see which one I'm happier with then sell the other.


----------



## Ricoflashback

I guess I might be in the minority with my lack of obsession with DV and HDR in general. Even with my state of the art, Master Series Sony 48” A9S OLED TV, DV and HDR are nice but it’s not what I appreciate most about the TV. The colors pop, the black levels are wonderful and the shadow detail is excellent. Sharp and clear picture with Sony’s famous processing and upscaling.

From everything I’ve read and the pics on this thread, the Formovie Fengmi T1 is about as good as it gets for a UST projector when talking about color pop and black levels without the infamous DLP gas and mist. I don’t know of any other technology that is pushing the envelope the way Appotronics is with ALPD. It‘s truly the “secret sauce” of DLP UST projectors. Yes, there are concerns about durability and service. It looks like the slow boat to China for repairs on your dime. But at this pricing, one could afford to budget for an upgrade every three or four years. Especially compared to the price of other PJ’s to get the comparable black levels.

We all like to save a buck and my normal upgrade cycle is around 5-6 years. My speakers are different as quite frankly - they can last ten or more years, easily, without having to be replaced. The Chinese seem hell bent on innovation and pushing technology advances with a labor model that is difficult to compete with. Hey - I like to buy American and will even spend extra dollars to do so IF the quality and benefits are there. But the Chinese are making it difficult in this global economy to ignore their technology and price points. I have a Huawei cell phone as well as a Chinese HiBy R5 portable player and a Chinese Tube Amplifier (Muzishare X7 KT88 - purchased from Amazon) that are fantastic products. I can only imagine what improvements will be with ALPD 5.0. My wish list includes horizontal and vertical lens shift with zoom memory for scope content.

Lastly - a big thanks to lattiboy for sharing his pics and observations on the Fengmi T1 and a big shout out to Humax for opening my eyes about this projector and its capability.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Brajesh said:


> Hope Fengmi/Xioami/Wemax start offering these UST's for int'l/U.S. markets. They must be noticing all the interest.


Wemax is the USA group for Appotronics, Fengmi and Xioami are China. 
It’s likely you’ll see tech be shared between them with slight variations between models.
If Fengmi has something that Wemax doesn’t, I’d expect it to be a matter of time before you see it on Wemax too but I guess that would depend on what they think the USA wants/needs different than China.


----------



## ufokillerz

ACE844 said:


> You guys are up against CN Lunar New year...nothings going anywhere fast for at least 2 weeks.


Nothing to do with Lunar New Years yet, I know because i haven't started celebrating yet. Just sellers drop shipping things they don't have yet.


----------



## arsenalfc89

Xspearo said:


> I currently have the PX1-PRO and I believe colors really pop and are very vibrant compared to the Optoma PX2. However on the PX1-PRO, I feel the blacks lack detail. Not sure if it's the settings I have tho. I'm hoping someone post some good settings.
> 
> One thing I do really love about the PX1-PRO is how clean the interface looks and feels, also that the remote controls my Nvidia shield and Sonos surround sound.
> 
> I think I'm going to just pull the trigger and get a T1 and see which one I'm happier with then sell the other.


Did you turn on Active Contrast. I heard that helps.


----------



## zoomx2

Xspearo said:


> I currently have the PX1-PRO and I believe colors really pop and are very vibrant compared to the Optoma PX2. However on the PX1-PRO, I feel the blacks lack detail. Not sure if it's the settings I have tho. I'm hoping someone post some good settings.
> 
> One thing I do really love about the PX1-PRO is how clean the interface looks and feels, also that the remote controls my Nvidia shield and Sonos surround sound.
> 
> I think I'm going to just pull the trigger and get a T1 and see which one I'm happier with then sell the other.


Can you post some pics and videos of PX1-pro interested to compare with the T1.


----------



## ACE844

ufokillerz said:


> Nothing to do with Lunar New Years yet, I know because i haven't started celebrating yet. Just sellers drop shipping things they don't have yet.


Lots of factories I deal with professionally closed the 20th and left for the villages and provinces....YMMV


----------



## ufokillerz

ACE844 said:


> Lots of factories I deal with professionally closed the 20th and left for the villages and provinces....YMMV


fingers crossed, ordered mine on the 10th.


----------



## Adamgoodapp

I can only hope that Chris Chen created the tracking code because they have one in stock to send out. Want it out of HK this week to just miss New Years rush.


----------



## liborcito

Hello, quick question regarding DV, when you said it can be disabled, in case we have problems with the red tint problem… can the projector disable it? Or should it be done externally? I use a Nvidia shield pro as external player (mostly for Kodi and streaming apps: Netflix, hbo, etc…) how could I disable DV? If disabled will ihe content be displayed as SDR or can it be somehow transformed into HDR?
Thanks


----------



## eezrider

If there is a red tint in DV, is this something that could be adjusted via an HDFury by adjusting the declared EDID primaries? I'm not looking to buy one unless it adds value.


----------



## Ricoflashback

liborcito said:


> Hello, quick question regarding DV, when you said it can be disabled, in case we have problems with the red tint problem… can the projector disable it? Or should it be done externally? I use a Nvidia shield pro as external player (mostly for Kodi and streaming apps: Netflix, hbo, etc…) how could I disable DV? If disabled will ihe content be displayed as SDR or can it be somehow transformed into HDR?
> Thanks


At least with the Nvidia Shield Pro, the streamer will recognize if your display is Dolby Vision capable or not. Then, you can toggle it on or off. You will still get HDR content and SDR (4K) content, depending on the source. I’m not sure if you can toggle off Dolby Vision via the Fengmi T1 or not and if that is harder or easier than doing it through the Shield. Hope this helps.


----------



## Xspearo

As I'm still dissecting and reading throught this thread, I believe someone said that picture modes on the T1 aren't adjustable outside of the custom mode, is this correct?


----------



## ngcoolman

Xspearo said:


> As I'm still dissecting and reading throught this thread, I believe someone said that picture modes on the T1 aren't adjustable outside of the custom mode, is this correct?


Yes, it is correct. And in DV, you only have bright and dark mode to choose from plus 4 lamp modes (movie, office, night, silent) with total 8 combinations.


----------



## ngcoolman

Ricoflashback said:


> At least with the Nvidia Shield Pro, the streamer will recognize if your display is Dolby Vision capable or not. Then, you can toggle it on or off. You will still get HDR content and SDR (4K) content, depending on the source. I’m not sure if you can toggle off Dolby Vision via the Fengmi T1 or not and if that is harder or easier than doing it through the Shield. Hope this helps.


T1 will automicatically display in dv mode if dv source is detected. You can only disable DV from the external player.


----------



## DeanM3

Xspearo said:


> As I'm still dissecting and reading throught this thread, I believe someone said that picture modes on the T1 aren't adjustable outside of the custom mode, is this correct?


In the current firmware that is correct.


----------



## lattiboy

Xspearo said:


> As I'm still dissecting and reading throught this thread, I believe someone said that picture modes on the T1 aren't adjustable outside of the custom mode, is this correct?


Correct, and you just have one custom mode for both SDR and HDR. The rest of them are preset and cannot be adjusted


----------



## Xspearo

ngcoolman said:


> Yes, it is correct. And in DV, you only have bright and dark mode to choose from plus 4 lamp modes (movie, office, night, silent) with total 8 combinations.


Well that is a little unfortunate, because different sources of content may require slightly different settings. That is the one thing I definitely love about the PX1-PRO so far. The UI and settings have a lot of customizable options. 

Can anyone chime in on how normal daytime viewing of TV shows, news, sports, and such look picture wise.


----------



## Xspearo

DeanM3 said:


> In the current firmware that is correct.


Do you think there will be a future update to enable this?


----------



## Xspearo

lattiboy said:


> Correct, and you just have one custom mode for both SDR and HDR. The rest of them are preset and cannot be adjusted


Yea that's a little unfortunate. How is normal day to day viewing of content outside of movies? Like for Tvs shows, news, sports, etc. Do you find it just as appealing as watching movies? Also do you find a need to adjust your custom mode much from content to content?


----------



## lattiboy

Kind of cool thing you can do if you have a Roku ultra (I am unsure if this is a feature on other media players), Set your display to Dolby Vision and select HDR always on. This applies whatever tonemapping is default with Dolby Vision and it happens to be excellent for non-Dolby Vision content. Even SDR content looks good. Office Brightness mode and Dolby dark.


----------



## GaeIta80

Anyone trying the Amazon Firestick 4k Max so far? In terms of display settings it has "HDR always on" ( @lattiboy similar to Roku stick) which should push any content into an HDR mode...maybe it helps the tone mapping in DV with the red colour tint 😀


----------



## ngcoolman

Xspearo said:


> Well that is a little unfortunate, because different sources of content may require slightly different settings. That is the one thing I definitely love about the PX1-PRO so far. The UI and settings have a lot of customizable options.
> 
> Can anyone chime in on how normal daytime viewing of TV shows, news, sports, and such look picture wise.


While there is only one custom setting, I found that you can save different values for each hdmi port. So I have one setting for each source. Admittedly, I cannot save two settings separately for hdr and sdr contents from the same device. 

Regarding the daytime viewing, the projector is bright enough for viewing typical TV content.


----------



## mirkmito

[CITAZIONE="ngcoolman, post: 61378444, membro: 7490930"]
Sebbene ci sia solo un'impostazione personalizzata, ho scoperto che puoi salvare valori diversi per ciascuna porta HDMI. Quindi ho un'impostazione per ogni sorgente. Certo, non posso salvare due impostazioni separatamente per i contenuti hdr e sdr dallo stesso dispositivo.

Per quanto riguarda la visione diurna, il proiettore è sufficientemente luminoso per visualizzare i tipici contenuti TV.
View attachment 3228803

[/CITAZIONE]


What screen do you use?


----------



## Sunbox2408

Hi all, great discussion all round on this thread. It sure helped me cancel my C2 order and place one for T1 instead from 'nothingbutlabel' today. Eagerly awaiting the unit however it may get marred by the courier delays due to the lunar festival so not holding my breath. Have also ordered a 120" xy pet crystal screen to complement from August Liu. Screen is arriving in a week as it is already in intransit.
@lattiboy and others thanks for sharing the comparison pics and other pics in general they were really helpful.
@Brajesh @Adamgoodapp @ufokillerz all the best for your delivery..hopefully it arrives soon. Post some pics when you get your hands on it.


----------



## Sunbox2408

DeanM3 said:


> I did not. I ordered from WuPro. He mentioned he would test the unit first and enable English menus for me.


@DeanM3 I interacted with Jason Li from Wupro as well and found him to be very friendly and helpful (would recommend). Was almost going to place the order with him until I found that Nothingbutlabel has a Sydney office and thought would be better to have someone local for aftersales support.


----------



## ngcoolman

mirkmito said:


> [CITAZIONE="ngcoolman, post: 61378444, membro: 7490930"]
> Sebbene ci sia solo un'impostazione personalizzata, ho scoperto che puoi salvare valori diversi per ciascuna porta HDMI. Quindi ho un'impostazione per ogni sorgente. Certo, non posso salvare due impostazioni separatamente per i contenuti hdr e sdr dallo stesso dispositivo.
> 
> Per quanto riguarda la visione diurna, il proiettore è sufficientemente luminoso per visualizzare i tipici contenuti TV.
> View attachment 3228803
> 
> [/CITAZIONE]
> 
> 
> What screen do you use?


It is fengmi soft fresnel screen f2.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Got my T1 yesterday.
I still have to finish the setup as my screen is not level 100%, build some speaker stands, etc.

But figured I would share a few snaps I took with my phone and some initial impressions.

1.) It uses a 3 prong plug by default, this added hum to my subwoofers, had to lift the ground with a two prong adapter.
2.) Its larger than I thought it would be, but not bad.
3.) It puts out a generous amount of heat, so make sure its well ventilated.
4.) The menu sysem is in English (switched for me by my seller) but all the main menu stuff is still not.
5.) It's pretty bright and with an ALR screen fine for daytime viewing.
6.) Tried HDR content (how to train your dragon) and no matter what setting I used it seemed a bit too dark, and was kinda on the warm side.
7.) Tried DV content (witcher on Netflix) and it was also a bit dark, but not too much, and colors were perfect.
8.) Tried SDR content (Switch and some Anime on Netflix) and colors look great, brightness is great, no issues. I am surprised the colors didnt "pop" a bit more actually, but I like that they look natural. White was not super bright white, and other colors were pretty neutral.











































I used Jason Li w/ WuPro, They were a bit more expensive than Chris Chen w/ Quanzhou. But I had already started talking to them before I had Chris offer me the lower price and Jason kind of "talked me into it" saying that nobody can be selling for less for the same product when they all buy it at the same price. What really pushed me was there higher ratings, and he agreed to pay return shipping should I have an issue and how they can fulfill warranty on these items.

Jason also was nice enough to toss in two power adapters for me, so I didn't have to buy a new power cable.

Another member ordered same time as me, and I do believe that WuPro did manage to get it to me faster, but that could be a shipping difference not a seller difference.
FYI I ordered on the 16th, so it only took about a week to get to me.

The next steps for me are figuring out how to have it automatically turn on to the HDMI input so that we do not need the remote and to help my girlfriend use this.
Seeing if its possible to tune some of the colors/dark levels, see if I can automate the on/off (seems to turn off fine with the auto off feature, but not turn on this way)


----------



## GaeIta80

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Got my T1 yesterday.
> I still have to finish the setup as my screen is not level 100%, build some speaker stands, etc.
> 
> But figured I would share a few snaps I took with my phone and some initial impressions.
> 
> 1.) It uses a 3 prong plug by default, this added hum to my subwoofers, had to lift the ground with a two prong adapter.
> 2.) Its larger than I thought it would be, but not bad.
> 3.) It puts out a generous amount of heat, so make sure its well ventilated.
> 4.) The menu sysem is in English (switched for me by my seller) but all the main menu stuff is still not.
> 5.) It's pretty bright and with an ALR screen fine for daytime viewing.
> 6.) Tried HDR content (how to train your dragon) and no matter what setting I used it seemed a bit too dark, and was kinda on the warm side.
> 7.) Tried DV content (witcher on Netflix) and it was also a bit dark, but not too much, and colors were perfect.
> 8.) Tried SDR content (Switch and some Anime on Netflix) and colors look great, brightness is great, no issues. I am surprised the colors didnt "pop" a bit more actually, but I like that they look natural. White was not super bright white, and other colors were pretty neutral.
> 
> View attachment 3228823
> 
> View attachment 3228822
> 
> View attachment 3228821
> 
> View attachment 3228820
> 
> 
> View attachment 3228819
> 
> 
> I used Jason Li w/ WuPro, They were a bit more expensive than Chris Chen w/ Quanzhou. But I had already started talking to them before I had Chris offer me the lower price and Jason kind of "talked me into it" saying that nobody can be selling for less for the same product when they all buy it at the same price. What really pushed me was there higher ratings, and he agreed to pay return shipping should I have an issue and how they can fulfill warranty on these items.
> 
> Jason also was nice enough to toss in two power adapters for me, so I didn't have to buy a new power cable.
> 
> Another member ordered same time as me, and I do believe that WuPro did manage to get it to me faster, but that could be a shipping difference not a seller difference.
> FYI I ordered on the 16th, so it only took about a week to get to me.
> 
> The next steps for me are figuring out how to have it automatically turn on to the HDMI input so that we do not need the remote and to help my girlfriend use this.
> Seeing if its possible to tune some of the colors/dark levels, see if I can automate the on/off (seems to turn off fine with the auto off feature, but not turn on this way)


Thanks a lot mate, good stuff! Quick question: it seems there is 1 pic projecting on a white wall without the mounted screen with leds...how does it look without a technical ALR UST screen? 

Planning to use it initially on a white living room wall in the evening, thanks. Then a proper Vividstorm 120" UST screen.

G.


----------



## Sunbox2408

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Got my T1 yesterday.
> I still have to finish the setup as my screen is not level 100%, build some speaker stands, etc.
> 
> But figured I would share a few snaps I took with my phone and some initial impressions.
> 
> 1.) It uses a 3 prong plug by default, this added hum to my subwoofers, had to lift the ground with a two prong adapter.
> 2.) Its larger than I thought it would be, but not bad.
> 3.) It puts out a generous amount of heat, so make sure its well ventilated.
> 4.) The menu sysem is in English (switched for me by my seller) but all the main menu stuff is still not.
> 5.) It's pretty bright and with an ALR screen fine for daytime viewing.
> 6.) Tried HDR content (how to train your dragon) and no matter what setting I used it seemed a bit too dark, and was kinda on the warm side.
> 7.) Tried DV content (witcher on Netflix) and it was also a bit dark, but not too much, and colors were perfect.
> 8.) Tried SDR content (Switch and some Anime on Netflix) and colors look great, brightness is great, no issues. I am surprised the colors didnt "pop" a bit more actually, but I like that they look natural. White was not super bright white, and other colors were pretty neutral.
> 
> View attachment 3228823
> 
> View attachment 3228822
> 
> View attachment 3228821
> 
> View attachment 3228820
> 
> 
> View attachment 3228819
> 
> 
> I used Jason Li w/ WuPro, They were a bit more expensive than Chris Chen w/ Quanzhou. But I had already started talking to them before I had Chris offer me the lower price and Jason kind of "talked me into it" saying that nobody can be selling for less for the same product when they all buy it at the same price. What really pushed me was there higher ratings, and he agreed to pay return shipping should I have an issue and how they can fulfill warranty on these items.
> 
> Jason also was nice enough to toss in two power adapters for me, so I didn't have to buy a new power cable.
> 
> Another member ordered same time as me, and I do believe that WuPro did manage to get it to me faster, but that could be a shipping difference not a seller difference.
> FYI I ordered on the 16th, so it only took about a week to get to me.
> 
> The next steps for me are figuring out how to have it automatically turn on to the HDMI input so that we do not need the remote and to help my girlfriend use this.
> Seeing if its possible to tune some of the colors/dark levels, see if I can automate the on/off (seems to turn off fine with the auto off feature, but not turn on this way)


Love the screen setup with backlit leds strips, have seen some screen vendors sell it with the screen as a package - wonder how diff would it be to buy led strips off the shelf and run around the screen.

Agree with your feedback around Jason from wupro where he convinced me that I would be buying a quality product with better after sales with him.


----------



## tovaxxx

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Got my T1 yesterday.
> I still have to finish the setup as my screen is not level 100%, build some speaker stands, etc.
> 
> I used Jason Li w/ WuPro, They were a bit more expensive than Chris Chen w/ Quanzhou. But I had already started talking to them before I had Chris offer me the lower price and Jason kind of "talked me into it" saying that nobody can be selling for less for the same product when they all buy it at the same price. What really pushed me was there higher ratings, and he agreed to pay return shipping should I have an issue and how they can fulfill warranty on these items.
> 
> Jason also was nice enough to toss in two power adapters for me, so I didn't have to buy a new power cable.
> 
> Another member ordered same time as me, and I do believe that WuPro did manage to get it to me faster, but that could be a shipping difference not a seller difference.
> FYI I ordered on the 16th, so it only took about a week to get to me.
> 
> The next steps for me are figuring out how to have it automatically turn on to the HDMI input so that we do not need the remote and to help my girlfriend use this.
> Seeing if its possible to tune some of the colors/dark levels, see if I can automate the on/off (seems to turn off fine with the auto off feature, but not turn on this way)


What size is your canvas? What is the distance in height from the projector (floor) to the bottom of the screen?


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

GaeIta80 said:


> Thanks a lot mate, good stuff! Quick question: it seems there is 1 pic projecting on a white wall without the mounted screen with leds...how does it look without a technical ALR UST screen?
> 
> Planning to use it initially on a white living room wall in the evening, thanks. Then a proper Vividstorm 120" UST screen.
> 
> G.


I expected it to look terrible, but it actually looked pretty good! The big thing was for me all the little holes in the wall from having things mounted there before, and my wall is textured. If it was a nice flat white wall, while I would not want that as my ultimate permanent solution for such a high end projector, it would totally be good enough to hold me over, or good enough for a room that is not dedicated to full time viewing.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Sunbox2408 said:


> Love the screen setup with backlit leds strips, have seen some screen vendors sell it with the screen as a package - wonder how diff would it be to buy led strips off the shelf and run around the screen.
> 
> Agree with your feedback around Jason from wupro where he convinced me that I would be buying a quality product with better after sales with him.


I did DIY so I used WS2815 LEDs because they are 12v rather than 5v making voltage drop not an issue for longer runs. I normally would feed power to both ends of the LED strip but even using 1.5 rolls of LEDs and setting it to white with full brightness I had no voltage sag with only one power input as I didnt feel like soldering power injection to the end of these LEDS and tested full bright white before putting it on the wall.

Admittedly for TV I don't really use all the effects, or need to run full white at full brightness, but it's better to overdo it rather than want to tear it down and upgrade it later.

I use a ESP8266 or a ESP32 with WLED as my controller. Literally hundreds of effects, amazing smart phone app, browser control, integrates into home assistant or Alexa and such, you can have different strips sync together automatically, etc.

If you ever wanted to do a "Hue Sync" setup where the LEDs match the content of the screen, it can handle that too.

Here is a demo of what can be done with this setup that I made a while back: 



And if you want a longer more boring video, this was kind of a VLOG of my initial build: 



Demo of my old TV using WLED as the agent to get a "Hue Sync" setup (Ambilight): 







> What size is your canvas? What is the distance in height from the projector (floor) to the bottom of the screen?


Its the Akia 115" screen .8 gain and it has an inside edge perfect for the LEDs so the screen is flush against the wall, as a bonus having the LEDS on the aluminum like this acts as a heatsink for the LEDS this will keep them from getting hot and increase there life, as heat is the #1 enemy for LEDs.

Not sure the measurements, I just set it up where it fit, if needed and the screen was too high I was going to cut the console so the projector would sit where the center speaker is. But it ended up working PERFECTLY, didnt even have to take the decorative trim off the wall.

This is the console I used: Amazon.com: Nexera Tuxedo TV Stand , 58-Inch, Black : Home & Kitchen

And lastly here are a few pics of the LED setup. I was not really planning on documenting so didn't get pic heavy.


----------



## ufokillerz

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Got my T1 yesterday.
> I still have to finish the setup as my screen is not level 100%, build some speaker stands, etc.
> 
> But figured I would share a few snaps I took with my phone and some initial impressions.
> 
> 1.) It uses a 3 prong plug by default, this added hum to my subwoofers, had to lift the ground with a two prong adapter.
> 2.) Its larger than I thought it would be, but not bad.
> 3.) It puts out a generous amount of heat, so make sure its well ventilated.
> 4.) The menu sysem is in English (switched for me by my seller) but all the main menu stuff is still not.
> 5.) It's pretty bright and with an ALR screen fine for daytime viewing.
> 6.) Tried HDR content (how to train your dragon) and no matter what setting I used it seemed a bit too dark, and was kinda on the warm side.
> 7.) Tried DV content (witcher on Netflix) and it was also a bit dark, but not too much, and colors were perfect.
> 8.) Tried SDR content (Switch and some Anime on Netflix) and colors look great, brightness is great, no issues. I am surprised the colors didnt "pop" a bit more actually, but I like that they look natural. White was not super bright white, and other colors were pretty neutral.
> 
> View attachment 3228823
> 
> View attachment 3228822
> 
> View attachment 3228821
> 
> View attachment 3228820
> 
> 
> View attachment 3228819
> 
> 
> I used Jason Li w/ WuPro, They were a bit more expensive than Chris Chen w/ Quanzhou. But I had already started talking to them before I had Chris offer me the lower price and Jason kind of "talked me into it" saying that nobody can be selling for less for the same product when they all buy it at the same price. What really pushed me was there higher ratings, and he agreed to pay return shipping should I have an issue and how they can fulfill warranty on these items.
> 
> Jason also was nice enough to toss in two power adapters for me, so I didn't have to buy a new power cable.
> 
> Another member ordered same time as me, and I do believe that WuPro did manage to get it to me faster, but that could be a shipping difference not a seller difference.
> FYI I ordered on the 16th, so it only took about a week to get to me.
> 
> The next steps for me are figuring out how to have it automatically turn on to the HDMI input so that we do not need the remote and to help my girlfriend use this.
> Seeing if its possible to tune some of the colors/dark levels, see if I can automate the on/off (seems to turn off fine with the auto off feature, but not turn on this way)


how long between paying and actually shipping? and delivery?


----------



## Tanizhq

ViciousXUSMC said:


> I used Jason Li w/ WuPro, They were a bit more expensive than Chris Chen w/ Quanzhou. But I had already started talking to them before I had Chris offer me the lower price and Jason kind of "talked me into it" saying that nobody can be selling for less for the same product when they all buy it at the same price. What really pushed me was there higher ratings, and he agreed to pay return shipping should I have an issue and how they can fulfill warranty on these items.


Hmmm this could be a bit concerning, How is Chris Chen able to price it lower then I wonder? And weird that your one doesn't have a red tint in DV mode, but the Chris Chen ones do?


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

ufokillerz said:


> how long between paying and actually shipping? and delivery?


I paid on Sunday the 16th and had a promise to have it shipped the next day.
A label was created and it was said to be shipped, but the tracking didn't actually show the package as picked up till like the next day after I think.

So I cant say for sure if this was one of those "we just printed a label" situations, or it was actually scheduled for shipping and the delay before it started to travel was due to the shipping company.

But ordered Jan 16, at my door Jan 23.

I cant really complain, that was much faster than I expected actually.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Tanizhq said:


> Hmmm this could be a bit concerning, How is Chris Chen able to price it lower then I wonder? And weird that your one doesn't have a red tint in DV mode, but the Chris Chen ones do?


DV and even HDR is warm I think, I can tell especially with subtitles as they are not white, but instead a warmer shade of white. I think the general synapses is that the red tint on the DV content is content related not hardware related. If I was to play one of the known "over red" sources I think it would look the same for me as well. I felt How to Train Your Dragon that I just recently watched on my old TV did look more red on the projector. But something like the Witcher looked amazing (except being a bit too dark IMO)

Now while Jason said they are making next to nothing on these, and there is no way another seller could be selling cheaper for the same quality product. I would assume these are all made in the same place, by the same people, and that could just be salesmanship. The fact even Jason has a cheaper price when buying in bulk, kind of dismisses the profit margin he quoted me.

So I was willing to the pay the extra for my own reasons, due to ratings on the site, and the fact they said they are an authorized dealer, after sales support, etc. Not so much that I thought his product was different or better in any way.


----------



## ufokillerz

ViciousXUSMC said:


> I paid on Sunday the 16th and had a promise to have it shipped the next day.
> A label was created and it was said to be shipped, but the tracking didn't actually show the package as picked up till like the next day after I think.
> 
> So I cant say for sure if this was one of those "we just printed a label" situations, or it was actually scheduled for shipping and the delay before it started to travel was due to the shipping company.
> 
> But ordered Jan 16, at my door Jan 23.
> 
> I cant really complain, that was much faster than I expected actually.


yea definitely different. i paid chris chen on 1/10, and its still not really coming my way yet. and some others that paid on 1/8


----------



## Ricoflashback

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Got my T1 yesterday.
> I still have to finish the setup as my screen is not level 100%, build some speaker stands, etc.
> 
> But figured I would share a few snaps I took with my phone and some initial impressions.
> 
> 1.) It uses a 3 prong plug by default, this added hum to my subwoofers, had to lift the ground with a two prong adapter.
> 2.) Its larger than I thought it would be, but not bad.
> 3.) It puts out a generous amount of heat, so make sure its well ventilated.
> 4.) The menu sysem is in English (switched for me by my seller) but all the main menu stuff is still not.
> 5.) It's pretty bright and with an ALR screen fine for daytime viewing.
> 6.) Tried HDR content (how to train your dragon) and no matter what setting I used it seemed a bit too dark, and was kinda on the warm side.
> 7.) Tried DV content (witcher on Netflix) and it was also a bit dark, but not too much, and colors were perfect.
> 8.) Tried SDR content (Switch and some Anime on Netflix) and colors look great, brightness is great, no issues. I am surprised the colors didnt "pop" a bit more actually, but I like that they look natural. White was not super bright white, and other colors were pretty neutral.
> 
> View attachment 3228823
> 
> View attachment 3228822
> 
> View attachment 3228821
> 
> View attachment 3228820
> 
> 
> View attachment 3228819
> 
> 
> I used Jason Li w/ WuPro, They were a bit more expensive than Chris Chen w/ Quanzhou. But I had already started talking to them before I had Chris offer me the lower price and Jason kind of "talked me into it" saying that nobody can be selling for less for the same product when they all buy it at the same price. What really pushed me was there higher ratings, and he agreed to pay return shipping should I have an issue and how they can fulfill warranty on these items.
> 
> Jason also was nice enough to toss in two power adapters for me, so I didn't have to buy a new power cable.
> 
> Another member ordered same time as me, and I do believe that WuPro did manage to get it to me faster, but that could be a shipping difference not a seller difference.
> FYI I ordered on the 16th, so it only took about a week to get to me.
> 
> The next steps for me are figuring out how to have it automatically turn on to the HDMI input so that we do not need the remote and to help my girlfriend use this.
> Seeing if its possible to tune some of the colors/dark levels, see if I can automate the on/off (seems to turn off fine with the auto off feature, but not turn on this way)


So you need a power adapter for the T1? It can‘t be used with with a standard 120V U.S. outlet? Do you use an AVR with your sub? I had a ground loop hum with my sub and use a Blue Jeans Cable isolation transformer to fix that. I’ve also lifted the ground on a previous amplifier I had but it’s not recommended. I sold the offending amp.

I know you’re still experimenting but what type of screen do you have? I’m starting to wonder if a higher gain, UST ALR screen makes sense or even a different screen than an ALR screen altogether. I’m used to white whites with a regular throw PJ and a white matte, 1.1 gain screen. How are the black levels, motion handling and sharpness? Thanks for your observations.


----------



## zoomx2

They all bought a bulk from wholesale. They are still making the difference. I ordered a 100” Pet Crystal from her as well. UPS updates delivery tomorrow finally.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Ricoflashback said:


> So you need a power adapter for the T1? It can‘t be used with with a standard 120V U.S. outlet? Do you use an AVR with your sub? I had a ground loop hum with my sub and use a Blue Jeans Cable isolation transformer to fix that. I’ve also lifted the ground on a previous amplifier I had but it’s not recommended. I sold the offending amp.
> 
> I know you’re still experimenting but what type of screen do you have? I’m starting to wonder if a higher gain, UST ALR screen makes sense or even a different screen than an ALR screen altogether. I’m used to white whites with a regular throw PJ and a white matte, 1.1 gain screen. How are the black levels, motion handling and sharpness? Thanks for your observations.


A regular 3 prong "laptop" cable will work, but it comes with a cable that terminates in a non US plug, so Jason tossed in the adapter for it.

I use an AVR for my subs, Onkyo RZ50. I had no hum until I added the MiniDSP to my setup on my old Yamaha, tried all the cables in the world to no avail. 
I have double shielded (co-ax) cables just like Blue Jeans from another brand. They didnt help, when I changed from the Yamaha to the Onkyo the hum was gone, but adding the T1 brought some of it back.
It was substancial and terrible with the plug grounded, but ungrounded its only audible when nothing is playing, my GF cant even hear it, but I can.

Getting the RCA cable even close to the AVR introduces the noise when I had the Yamha, just getting the RCA Plug near the AVR to plug it in the noise came. But only when using the MiniDSP. If I take that out I can plug the subs directly into the AVR without any noise. 

It seems to be some kind of EMI? Because that is not ground loop noise. What happened here is when the T1 was grounded it added ground noise, now I am back to mild EMI noise that I had gotten rid of but now seems its back again.


----------



## 3sprit

GaeIta80 said:


> Damn! It works 😒


The post is gone...


----------



## CabbageMan

3sprit said:


> The post is gone...


Yeah one of my comments got deleted too. The thread doesn't say "no price talk" and I have seen lots of price talk throughout the entirety of this thread but for some reason things are being deleted now haha


----------



## Ricoflashback

ViciousXUSMC said:


> A regular 3 prong "laptop" cable will work, but it comes with a cable that terminates in a non US plug, so Jason tossed in the adapter for it.
> 
> I use an AVR for my subs, Onkyo RZ50. I had no hum until I added the MiniDSP to my setup on my old Yamaha, tried all the cables in the world to no avail.
> I have double shielded (co-ax) cables just like Blue Jeans from another brand. They didnt help, when I changed from the Yamaha to the Onkyo the hum was gone, but adding the T1 brought some of it back.
> It was substancial and terrible with the plug grounded, but ungrounded its only audible when nothing is playing, my GF cant even hear it, but I can.
> 
> Getting the RCA cable even close to the AVR introduces the noise when I had the Yamha, just getting the RCA Plug near the AVR to plug it in the noise came. But only when using the MiniDSP. If I take that out I can plug the subs directly into the AVR without any noise.
> 
> It seems to be some kind of EMI? Because that is not ground loop noise. What happened here is when the T1 was grounded it added ground noise, now I am back to mild EMI noise that I had gotten rid of but now seems its back again.


Forgive me for asking but it sounds like the MiniDSP is the offending device. What sonic benefits does the MiniDSP add to your system that you would miss? Not that I could hear much difference on anything with my high hearing loss from all the rock concerts in my youth. I believe Fengmi will have an "International Version - ALPD 5.0" of the T1 soon. Maybe that will have a standard, 120v, U.S. plug. It's supposed to have the Android O/S but I use a Nvidia Shield Pro anyway and that's not a big deal for me.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Ricoflashback said:


> Forgive me for asking but it sounds like the MiniDSP is the offending device. What sonic benefits does the MiniDSP add to your system that you would miss? Not that I could hear much difference on anything with my high hearing loss from all the rock concerts in my youth. I believe Fengmi will have an "International Version - ALPD 5.0" of the T1 soon. Maybe that will have a standard, 120v, U.S. plug. It's supposed to have the Android O/S but I use a Nvidia Shield Pro anyway and that's not a big deal for me.


I have 3 subwoofers, the one near the couch needs a delay to play well and my AVR cant add a delay for a single sub.
Next is room EQ, I have a house curve on the subs to make them have a much flatter response with a gradual boost going into the low end.

Now the Onkyo RZ50 has DIRAC and it is EQing my subs as well, but it still cant do the single sub delay.

Once I upgrade to the RZ70 if it has independent sub outputs maybe I can get rid of the MiniDSP, but its a nice unit to have. I also have bass shakers connected to it.

But trust me its a HUGE difference, its the difference between "random bass" and "perfectly tuned" bass. Having the right delay literally makes the bass loudest right at my sitting area when before it was in more of a null.

I also just added some acoustic treatment, and that has made it sound even better yet. The Bass Traps in the corners made the biggest difference, but since I am a couch against the wall guy, the material on the wall behind me has helped with the higher freuquences so they dont bounce back so much.


----------



## CabbageMan

Ricoflashback said:


> Forgive me for asking but it sounds like the MiniDSP is the offending device. What sonic benefits does the MiniDSP add to your system that you would miss? Not that I could hear much difference on anything with my high hearing loss from all the rock concerts in my youth. I believe Fengmi will have an "International Version - ALPD 5.0" of the T1 soon. Maybe that will have a standard, 120v, U.S. plug. It's supposed to have the Android O/S but I use a Nvidia Shield Pro anyway and that's not a big deal for me.


Where did you hear about this ALDP 5.0 version? I was about ready to buy this and now you have me thinking I should wait. Know of any benefits that would come with the 5.0 version?


----------



## spocky12

3sprit said:


> The post is gone...


My bad, seems it's not allowed to share these kind of things here, didn't know.

Wondering if it would have been the same if the code had been "wintersales22" (believe me or not, I initially asked NothingButLabel a coupon for the Fengmi/Xiaomi UST and ProjecTivy tools community, not to enrich myself).

Anyway, pm me if interested (hopefully this message won't be moderated, if it is, could any moderator point me to what exactly is forbidden, as sincerely believe this is as useful as knowing who can be contacted at AliExpress to get a bargain, and I would have shared it as well if it has been a global coupon with no financial interest on my side).


----------



## Ricoflashback

CabbageMan said:


> Where did you hear about this ALDP 5.0 version? I was about ready to buy this and now you have me thinking I should wait. Know of any benefits that would come with the 5.0 version?


I can't divulge my sources. But he can chime in if he wants to! Rumor has it that the international version will be out in April, 2022. But who knows - - that's speculation and with COVID-19 and Omicron issues - - it's hard to say if they'll make that date. And even if they do, I'm uncertain as to the benefits of ALPD 5.0 outside of the Android O/S, which isn't a big deal to me since I use the Nvidia Shield Pro streamer. If the successor to the Fengmi T1 only has the Android O/S - - then I'd stick with the current model. If there is no PQ improvement or added functionality - - I don't see holding off for holding off's sake. Maybe Nothingbutlabel or Jason Li can provide some additional feedback. The Chinese always seem to have something in the queue for release without providing much information until it's out on the street.


----------



## Brajesh

We can create a thread in the Projector Deals section and talk pricing.


----------



## CabbageMan

Ricoflashback said:


> I can't divulge my sources. But he can chime in if he wants to! Rumor has it that the international version will be out in April, 2022. But who knows - - that's speculation and with COVID-19 and Omicron issues - - it's hard to say if they'll make that date. And even if they do, I'm uncertain as to the benefits of ALPD 5.0 outside of the Android O/S, which isn't a big deal to me since I use the Nvidia Shield Pro streamer. If the successor to the Fengmi T1 only has the Android O/S - - then I'd stick with the current model. If there is no PQ improvement or added functionality - - I don't see holding off for holding off's sake. Maybe Nothingbutlabel or Jason Li can provide some additional feedback. The Chinese always seem to have something in the queue for release without providing much information until it's out on the street.


Gotcha, yeah I would be using an external streaming device anyway so seems like maybe waiting wouldn't be worth it. Thanks for the info!


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

So update on automation.
The remote seems to be Bluetooth, so I cant automate on/off with my Broadlink RM4 Pro

However I did find a setting "power on with electric on" so I can power this on a smart switch to turn it on and off easy enough.
I just am not sure I like hard cutting power to the unit like that, and if someone tries to use the remote when power is off it wont work. Though for the last several months we have not used any remotes to turn anything on/off I have the entire entertainment system on one keyword with Alexa.

"Alexa Turn on Entertainment" turns on my star projector, the led lights behind the screen, the TV, my Nvidia Shield, and the Onkyo AVR.
Same turning off, turns them all off.

It seems to turn off when I turn my source device off, there was a setting for that I think maybe a CEC setting, but I cant seem to even find that setting now when I did before.

Depending how deep down the rabbit hole I want to go, I can have it turn off via CEC so it has a soft shutdown, and have my smart switch on a delay so that it turns off after say 15 minutes in a low power state. Then for my "turn on" voice command it will turn everything on and give the unit power again.

I almost have to assume they have this turn on at power on feature FOR automation purposes, unlike a computer server where you would want it to come on and boot if a power outtage happened, I cant see wanting my TV to come on when I am away from home due to a power flash. If thats the case, maybe its pretty safe to hard cut power to the unit.

All my core infrastructure is on UPS's as well just so that nothing ever goes off lol.
So my internet ONT, My Servers, and the entire Entertainment system. If power goes off, if I am streaming local from my server or over the internet, there is no interruption. Not even my wireless goes down as those are access points running off a PoE switch that is on the same UPS as the servers.


----------



## wltam

Trying to chime in here; can you actually modify the colour settings in DV in case you use an external device such as the Nvidia Shield? 
I am doubting getting my very first UST and want a future proof model  Do you recommend to wait until the DV settings are fixed or would you trust a company like Fengmi to get it sorted?


----------



## mirkmito

wltam said:


> Trying to chime in here; can you actually modify the colour settings in DV in case you use an external device such as the Nvidia Shield?
> I am doubting getting my very first UST and want a future proof model  Do you recommend to wait until the DV settings are fixed or would you trust a company like Fengmi to get it sorted?


The DV cannot be modified with any player ... even with oppo it cannot be ... The DV is designed in such a way as not to be modified ... only with the classic hdr you can intervene


----------



## Grumi

CabbageMan said:


> Where did you hear about this ALDP 5.0 version? I was about ready to buy this and now you have me thinking I should wait. Know of any benefits that would come with the 5.0 version?


It also seems that in the Appotronics annual reports (released in May 2021), they mention that ALPD 5.0 will improve contrast, black levels and peak luminance, whereas ALPD 6.0 will bring down cost. In these reports there is no mention of timing (only 2021 for ALPD 5.0 products but that was the expectation before the pandemic).


----------



## wltam

mirkmito said:


> The DV cannot be modified with any player ... even with oppo it cannot be ... The DV is designed in such a way as not to be modified ... only with the classic hdr you can intervene


I see! Would you then recommend waiting until Fengmi fixed this issue? Or just trust that it will be ok?


----------



## Ricoflashback

mirkmito said:


> The DV cannot be modified with any player ... even with oppo it cannot be ... The DV is designed in such a way as not to be modified ... only with the classic hdr you can intervene


With the Nvidia Shield Pro, you can do "AI" Enhanced Upscaling. But again, I don't understand the obsession with DV and if the picture looks bad, I'd just toggle DV off. Or, spend big bucks for a Lumagen or better madVR Envy Pro for the best in tone mapping. Or, a Panasonic 4K Blu-ray Player that has options for tone mapping? Or, the HD Fury solution? Lots of ways to work around DV if you don't like the picture. And remember - - a lot of these picture problems have nothing to do with the Fengmi T1 or any display - - it has to to with crappy mastering of DV itself. And, how each display device has to figure out how to interpret DV. Projectors have more difficulties with HDR and DV than an OLED display, for example, because of the lower nits range compared to an OLED TV or LCD TV. You can always opt for a JVC - - at twice or more the cost! But no JVC UST.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Quick question - from the bottom of the projector (on a table) to the bottom of the picture (wall or fixed frame) - - what is the distance for a 100" screen? 120" screen? I'm trying to do some calculations on the stand I'll be using. Thanks.


----------



## Kev1000000

ViciousXUSMC said:


> So update on automation.
> The remote seems to be Bluetooth, so I cant automate on/off with my Broadlink RM4 Pro
> 
> However I did find a setting "power on with electric on" so I can power this on a smart switch to turn it on and off easy enough.
> I just am not sure I like hard cutting power to the unit like that, and if someone tries to use the remote when power is off it wont work. Though for the last several months we have not used any remotes to turn anything on/off I have the entire entertainment system on one keyword with Alexa.
> 
> "Alexa Turn on Entertainment" turns on my star projector, the led lights behind the screen, the TV, my Nvidia Shield, and the Onkyo AVR.
> Same turning off, turns them all off.
> 
> It seems to turn off when I turn my source device off, there was a setting for that I think maybe a CEC setting, but I cant seem to even find that setting now when I did before.
> 
> Depending how deep down the rabbit hole I want to go, I can have it turn off via CEC so it has a soft shutdown, and have my smart switch on a delay so that it turns off after say 15 minutes in a low power state. Then for my "turn on" voice command it will turn everything on and give the unit power again.
> 
> I almost have to assume they have this turn on at power on feature FOR automation purposes, unlike a computer server where you would want it to come on and boot if a power outtage happened, I cant see wanting my TV to come on when I am away from home due to a power flash. If thats the case, maybe its pretty safe to hard cut power to the unit.
> 
> All my core infrastructure is on UPS's as well just so that nothing ever goes off lol.
> So my internet ONT, My Servers, and the entire Entertainment system. If power goes off, if I am streaming local from my server or over the internet, there is no interruption. Not even my wireless goes down as those are access points running off a PoE switch that is on the same UPS as the servers.


Oh man, this isn't great to hear. I also automate my entire home theater setup. I wonder if there are IP commands that can be sent to control the projector over the LAN?


----------



## wltam

Ricoflashback said:


> With the Nvidia Shield Pro, you can do "AI" Enhanced Upscaling. But again, I don't understand the obsession with DV and if the picture looks bad, I'd just toggle DV off. Or, spend big bucks for a Lumagen or better madVR Envy Pro for the best in tone mapping. Or, a Panasonic 4K Blu-ray Player that has options for tone mapping? Or, the HD Fury solution? Lots of ways to work around DV if you don't like the picture. And remember - - a lot of these picture problems have nothing to do with the Fengmi T1 or any display - - it has to to with crappy mastering of DV itself. And, how each display device has to figure out how to interpret DV. Projectors have more difficulties with HDR and DV than an OLED display, for example, because of the lower nits range compared to an OLED TV or LCD TV. You can always opt for a JVC - - at twice or more the cost! But no JVC UST.


Thanks for the feedback - newbie here so lots to learn!


----------



## zoomx2

It is Chinese but you should able to tell by the numbers


----------



## Ricoflashback

zoomx2 said:


> It is Chinese but you should able to tell by the numbers


Much thanks! I believe this is in millimeters, correct? For a minute, there, I thought I'd have to do a "Chi" conversion.


----------



## abaintor

GaeIta80 said:


> Anyone trying the Amazon Firestick 4k Max so far? In terms of display settings it has "HDR always on" ( @lattiboy similar to Roku stick) which should push any content into an HDR mode...maybe it helps the tone mapping in DV with the red colour tint 😀


I have one and I had to disable it because the tone mapping was ugly for non hdr content (too bright)


----------



## Malaveae

Brajesh said:


> Hope Fengmi/Xioami/Wemax start offering these UST's for int'l/U.S. markets. They must be noticing all the interest.


This brazilian youtuber did an interview to Fengmi Product Manager at minute 10:10:


----------



## Xspearo

Malaveae said:


> This brazilian youtuber did an interview to Fengmi Product Manager at minute 10:10:


So with this information, I'm wondering if I should hold off buying one now and wait for the integration of the Google/Android UI OS and also maybe local support. Or does anyone think once this integration kicks off there will be some update to change it over?


----------



## Sunbox2408

ufokillerz said:


> yea definitely different. i paid chris chen on 1/10, and its still not really coming my way yet. and some others that paid on 1/8












@ufokillerz per my discussion with Chris as a prospective buyer last week, she did mention that they have sent a whole batch to the shipping forwarder on the 18th and they were supposed to receive it on the 21st. Hopefully it has your stock and should be in transit now. Hoping the best.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Ok so there is an Auto Boot feature you can get too from the settings menu during viewing an input.
It says "automatically turn on when hdmi is detected" but that does not seem to work for me.

Wonder if it only works for a specific hdmi port? I am on port #1.

Auto off is working, it seems to go off automatically when I turn off my shield or my switch.

Since I am using an AVR and I have standby passthru on, wonder if I turned that off, if it would fix auto boot.

If I get this working I can have everything fully automated without much hackery.


----------



## Sunbox2408

ViciousXUSMC said:


> I did DIY so I used WS2815 LEDs because they are 12v rather than 5v making voltage drop not an issue for longer runs. I normally would feed power to both ends of the LED strip but even using 1.5 rolls of LEDs and setting it to white with full brightness I had no voltage sag with only one power input as I didnt feel like soldering power injection to the end of these LEDS and tested full bright white before putting it on the wall.
> 
> Admittedly for TV I don't really use all the effects, or need to run full white at full brightness, but it's better to overdo it rather than want to tear it down and upgrade it later.
> 
> I use a ESP8266 or a ESP32 with WLED as my controller. Literally hundreds of effects, amazing smart phone app, browser control, integrates into home assistant or Alexa and such, you can have different strips sync together automatically, etc.
> 
> If you ever wanted to do a "Hue Sync" setup where the LEDs match the content of the screen, it can handle that too.
> 
> Here is a demo of what can be done with this setup that I made a while back:
> 
> 
> 
> And if you want a longer more boring video, this was kind of a VLOG of my initial build:
> 
> 
> 
> Demo of my old TV using WLED as the agent to get a "Hue Sync" setup (Ambilight):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its the Akia 115" screen .8 gain and it has an inside edge perfect for the LEDs so the screen is flush against the wall, as a bonus having the LEDS on the aluminum like this acts as a heatsink for the LEDS this will keep them from getting hot and increase there life, as heat is the #1 enemy for LEDs.
> 
> Not sure the measurements, I just set it up where it fit, if needed and the screen was too high I was going to cut the console so the projector would sit where the center speaker is. But it ended up working PERFECTLY, didnt even have to take the decorative trim off the wall.
> 
> This is the console I used: Amazon.com: Nexera Tuxedo TV Stand , 58-Inch, Black : Home & Kitchen
> 
> And lastly here are a few pics of the LED setup. I was not really planning on documenting so didn't get pic heavy.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3228838


That's tons of material and looks amazing. Thanks for sharing mate, inspired enough to do this to my screen


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Sunbox2408 said:


> That's tons of material and looks amazing. Thanks for sharing mate, inspired enough to do this to my screen


It's kinda pricey but for my back patio leds and for this project for the projector I used the DigUno and DigQuad units.
You can buy an ESP8266 or ESP32 for mere dollars and I have used those for dozens of projects with no issues (even came up with my own cheap break out board solution to save you from soldering or using jumper wires) but the stuff from QuinLED adds fuses, automatic voltage adjustment, a signal booster so you can literally have the "brain" in another room and not near the LEDs.

By the time you buy quality LED's and a QuinLED it will cost more, but the outcome is dramatically better, and because its all DIY, you can always upgrade. LED went out? Just get new LED, not buy a whole new pre-fab, power supply went out, just get a new power supply, etc.

Id definitely go ESP32 not ESP8266 these days, now that the WLED code is made for it, it has better wireless connectivity and more processing power.









QuinLED-Dig-Uno Pre-Assembled Available! - quinled.info


Fully assembled controller for 5v/12v ws2812b sk6812 RGB(W) LED strips or pixels. Runs WLED and works with Phone App, Home Assistant and E1.31




quinled.info





I literally just added those new projector lights to my automation about 30 minutes ago. Now they will come on when I tell Alexa to turn on the TV Lights.
You don't need Home Assistant to do that either, as WLED can spoof being a Hue light and be detected by Alexa directly.










So in this setup I have a local alexa device called "TV Lights" that will turn on all my TV lights in the house. Then in Alexa I created a group called "Entertainment" and so when I say Alexa Turn on Entertainment, it tunrs on the TV Lights, the AVR, the Shield, my Star Projector, etc. I am still working to get the T1 to come on, hoping not to resort to a smart switch, especially as it has a feature for auto boot with HDMI, just don't have it working for me yet.


----------



## spocky12

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Ok so there is an Auto Boot feature you can get too from the settings menu during viewing an input.
> It says "automatically turn on when hdmi is detected" but that does not seem to work for me.
> 
> Wonder if it only works for a specific hdmi port? I am on port #1.
> 
> Auto off is working, it seems to go off automatically when I turn off my shield or my switch.
> 
> Since I am using an AVR and I have standby passthru on, wonder if I turned that off, if it would fix auto boot.
> 
> If I get this working I can have everything fully automated without much hackery.


Cec HDMI power on never really worked on my cinema 4k pro (FengOs too). I disabled it long ago, but perhaps it's working a bit better now. Usually, on these devices, the usual way to power them on remotely is by using a smart plug (just power it off, then on and it boots fine).
Regarding power off, I wouldn't use the smart plug, that seems to risky for the os. So for now, your can use cec if it works for you. A future release of ProjecTivy tools will probably embed a web server to expose an API for common interactions. Didn't have time to do it yet, but it's on my to-do list.
Regarding the reason why these devices can boot when plugged in, I believe that's because on their first UST devices, there was no power button at all (don't ask my why, though), so it was the only way to turn them on in case of a missing remote control.


----------



## humax

Xspearo said:


> So with this information, I'm wondering if I should hold off buying one now and wait for the integration of the Google/Android UI OS and also maybe local support. Or does anyone think once this integration kicks off there will be some update to change it over?



Apart from Google services/ Android OS, he mentioned the Fengmi Laser Tv will also support 3D in the global version. Am I to assume he is probably talking about this model?


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Update Auto Boot does work. 
Its actually kind of the opposite issue I have.

The unit goes to "sleep" when I turn off my equipment, and in the sleep state it wont boot automatically. Pressing the power button instantly wakes it.

If I manually turn the projector off, it will then boot and turn on automatically with my equipment.

So its actually the opposite problem I have, I need to figure out how to automatically turn it off, not on lol.

Also with my Shield I can only select 4K 30fps, shouldn't this projector probably support 4K 60fps?

I have HDMI 2.1 set on the projector and my AVR.


----------



## wltam

Didnt the Brazilian guy also mention that AndroidOS has less adjustable settings when compared to FengOS? Can someone perhaps verify this? If so, would it be beneficial to get the Global version at all?


----------



## lattiboy

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Update Auto Boot does work.
> Its actually kind of the opposite issue I have.
> 
> The unit goes to "sleep" when I turn off my equipment, and in the sleep state it wont boot automatically. Pressing the power button instantly wakes it.
> 
> If I manually turn the projector off, it will then boot and turn on automatically with my equipment.
> 
> So its actually the opposite problem I have, I need to figure out how to automatically turn it off, not on lol.


Same issue! Was actually going to post about this. RokuUltra remote works perfectly for everything except power. It goes into a “standby” mode with no picture, but fans still running. It stayed this way for multiple hours when I was testing it. Only the Fengmi remote can turn it back on from this state, which is very annoying. Picture comes up almost instantly when you hit power.

There is clearly something up as the “energy saving” menu only has options for a screensaver, but nothing about auto off time or anything else.


----------



## Brajesh

I know w/VAVA Chroma, pressing 'Sleep' twice set it into power off mode/countdown. Try adding a delay and a second sleep command if you have a Harmony.


----------



## Maqnvm7

24p should be possible on this projector, right? Because I hate the 60Hz pulldown on my TV.


----------



## mirkmito

Maqnvm7 said:


> 24p should be possible on this projector, right? Because I hate the 60Hz pulldown on my TV.
> [/CITAZIONE]


Blocked at 60hz


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

lattiboy said:


> Same issue! Was actually going to post about this. RokuUltra remote works perfectly for everything except power. It goes into a “standby” mode with no picture, but fans still running. It stayed this way for multiple hours when I was testing it. Only the Fengmi remote can turn it back on from this state, which is very annoying. Picture comes up almost instantly when you hit power.
> 
> There is clearly something up as the “energy saving” menu only has options for a screensaver, but nothing about auto off time or anything else.


Yes you would think that in power savings would be a "turn off after x time of no signal", though I didnt notice the fans staying on for me. Maybe they just run until it has cooled down enough.


----------



## Maqnvm7

mirkmito said:


> Blocked at 60hz


Hmm, that’s weird.
I mean, lower Hertz should always be possible, no? 
Man, that‘s a dealbreaker for me.


----------



## mirkmito

Maqnvm7 said:


> Hmm, è strano.
> Voglio dire, Hertz inferiore dovrebbe essere sempre possibile, no?
> Amico, questo è un rompicapo per me.


The projector accepts signals at 24p / 23.97p etc .. but ... the output signal will remain blocked at 60hz


----------



## spocky12

FengOs supports "off" and "standby" modes on the previous devices. Not sure how it is developed on this device yet.

If you're using an external player on HDMI (shield, ATV...) and if when you turn this player off, the embedded HDMI app automatically exits to the FengOs launcher, upcoming ProjecTivy will be able to automatically power your device off.

Another solution : if your automation system can be scripted, here's what you can do :

enable adb on Fengos (once)
install adb on you automation system (once)
In your "t1 power off" script :

execute "adb connect [device ip]"
execute "adb shell input keyevent KEYCODE_POWER"
This will send the power off key code, which will bring up the power off menu, which will in turn power off your device after 10 seconds.


----------



## Kev1000000

Oh man, if it supports ADB, we're in business, especially if you use Home Assistant


----------



## Maqnvm7

mirkmito said:


> The projector accepts signals at 24p / 23.97p etc .. but ... the output signal will remain blocked at 60hz


Oh, I wonder if this is a software limitation?


----------



## spocky12

Maqnvm7 said:


> Hmm, that’s weird.
> I mean, lower Hertz should always be possible, no?
> Man, that‘s a dealbreaker for me.


Don't quote me on that but I believe this is due to wobulation. This requires that each image is displayed in 4 times in order to produce the "4k" image, so 240hz is used internally to produce a 60hz image.
Perhaps this can't be adapted easily to other frequencies (no doubt it could be with the necessary efforts, but this isn't only a matter of requesting the os to change the refresh rate, the hardware may be designed to work like this).


----------



## Maqnvm7

spocky12 said:


> Don't quote me on that but I believe this is due to wobulation. This requires that each image is displayed in 4 times in order to produce the "4k" image, so 240hz is used internally to produce a 60hz image.
> Perhaps this can't be adapted easily to other frequencies (no doubt it could be with the necessary efforts, but this isn't only a matter of requesting the os to change the refresh rate, the hardware may be designed to work like this).


Gotcha. Thanks for explaining. Guess I might just have to buy the projector and see if its bearable.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

spocky12 said:


> FengOs supports "off" and "standby" modes on the previous devices. Not sure how it is developed on this device yet.
> 
> If you're using an external player on HDMI (shield, ATV...) and if when you turn this player off, the embedded HDMI app automatically exits to the FengOs launcher, upcoming ProjecTivy will be able to automatically power your device off.
> 
> Another solution : if your automation system can be scripted, here's what you can do :
> 
> enable adb on Fengos (once)
> install adb on you automation system (once)
> In your "t1 power off" script :
> 
> execute "adb connect [device ip]"
> execute "adb shell input keyevent KEYCODE_POWER"
> This will send the power off key code, which will bring up the power off menu, which will in turn power off your device after 10 seconds.


Works for me, I saw it has "install untrusted apps" so figured it was exposed to standard android side loading, and things like ADB.

Was just trying to see if it had a web interface or something no luck, have not tried a full port scan or ssh or anything yet.

As for everybody saying this is locked at 60hz, any idea why my shield is only letting me go up to 4k 30hz?
I had my TV set to 4K 60hz if I am not mistaken, my cables should be 8K 60hz rated (48gbps) but I'll have to test and verify, but even a pretty basic cable should still get my 4K60hz.

Edit: Fixed that issue too.

Changed the projector from HDMI 2.1 to HDMI 2.0 and it unlocked 4K 59.xx hz Dolby Vision and HDR.
It has 4K 23.xx and it has 4K60 as well but 4K60 does not have Dolby Vision/HDR it seems.


----------



## mayaCH

Maqnvm7 said:


> Gotcha. Thanks for explaining. Guess I might just have to buy the projector and see if its bearable.


Hi, where are you from in CH? I am from SG city and waiting for a quote on alibaba (for a single unit). maybe you are interested, so we could put our efforts on that together and get some cheaper quote. if interested write me a pm.


----------



## lattiboy

Maqnvm7 said:


> Gotcha. Thanks for explaining. Guess I might just have to buy the projector and see if its bearable.


As far as I know every UST projector is locked at 60 Hz. You would need to have 120 Hz capable 4K projector to get proper 24P. Don’t want to speak out of turn, but I’m pretty sure about that.


----------



## mayaCH

Thanks to all you guys who shared the infos in this topic. It really took me whole day to read through all (really all) postings here, and some weeks to read through different reviews and experiences, to decide which PJ i actually want. My order is placed and paid with credit card just now, it is a Fengmi Formovie T1. I had a pleasant talk to Jason Li @ Wupro and also got a good price incl. shipment.
Now let's wait when the PJ arrives and if everything is good. Will keep you posted about the PJ and how much Siwss customs swallows.


----------



## Adamgoodapp

spocky12 said:


> FengOs supports "off" and "standby" modes on the previous devices. Not sure how it is developed on this device yet.
> 
> If you're using an external player on HDMI (shield, ATV...) and if when you turn this player off, the embedded HDMI app automatically exits to the FengOs launcher, upcoming ProjecTivy will be able to automatically power your device off.
> 
> Another solution : if your automation system can be scripted, here's what you can do :
> 
> enable adb on Fengos (once)
> install adb on you automation system (once)
> In your "t1 power off" script :
> 
> execute "adb connect [device ip]"
> execute "adb shell input keyevent KEYCODE_POWER"
> This will send the power off key code, which will bring up the power off menu, which will in turn power off your device after 10 seconds.


Thanks for this. When I get my T1 I will write a Homebridge plugin for it.


----------



## jakechoy

pionoor said:


> For those who wanna see the red tint issue, check out The Silent Sea on Netflix, at the very beginning of episode 5, about a minute long scene which is really bad in DV. Here are more examples:
> View attachment 3226833
> 
> View attachment 3226832
> 
> 
> I highly encourage whoever has a T1 to submit a feedback with some pictures attached through this link https://feedback-staging.it.formovie.net:8081/system/feedback/custom_add
> You gonna need to translate the page to english. It will not allow you to submit the form unless you put a Chinese phone number, I grabbed some fake number from google, 13335901938, and worked for me.


Even in non-DV mode on regular TVs, these scenes are red per the director. Not a T1 issue. Tested DV and non-DV on multiple devices included the Xiaomi C2.


----------



## wltam

jakechoy said:


> Even in non-DV mode on regular TVs, these scenes are red per the director. Not a T1 issue. Tested DV and non-DV on multiple devices included the Xiaomi C2.


Is it? I thought that the skin tone in the DV demo videos also appeared to be quite reddish.


----------



## jakechoy

wltam said:


> Is it? I thought that the skin tone in the DV demo videos also appeared to be quite reddish.


I am referring to folks who are using Silent Sea to test the DV outputs and indicating the red tint and helping to validate that it is due to the content being red in the first place and not the T1.

As for the other demo videos, I can't comment as I only tested them on the C2 and had no issues.


----------



## GaeIta80

jakechoy said:


> Even in non-DV mode on regular TVs, these scenes are red per the director. Not a T1 issue. Tested DV and non-DV on multiple devices included the Xiaomi C2.


Thanks for the info, I pulled the trigger on the T1 yesterday and wasn't sure till the last second between the Xiaomi C2 and this one...I hope I did make the right decision 😊


----------



## DeanM3

GaeIta80 said:


> Thanks for the info, I pulled the trigger on the T1 yesterday and wasn't sure till the last second between the Xiaomi C2 and this one...I hope I did make the right decision 😊


I don't think you can go wrong with either. I am thoroughly enjoying my T1 and haven't looked back. Even my wife and kids are shocked at the picture quality improvement over the Xiaomi it replaced.


----------



## jakechoy

agreed. these next-gen UST from the same factory blows everything else away. U can't go wrong with either. I can't go back to my old DLPs or UST anymore.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

So I am very close to fully automating.
Last night I turned everything off in my current automation state where the projector goes to sleep when a display device turns off.
This morning when I turned everything on, it did a hard boot. So this does mean after a period of time it will shut down.

To catch up and put all the information in one post.

There is an "Auto Boot" feature that will turn the projector on when a display device turns on. This feature is working well for me, but it only works if the projector is shut down, not if its in "standby/sleep".

Per @spocky12 suggestion of using ADB to send the power off command. I implemented that this morning and have it working.
It will start the shutdown countdown (assume I can send the command twice for immediate shutdown) this gives me a way to automate power off.

The issue is, that despite sending the power off command the unit will still immediately go into standby when the other equipment shuts off.
I am trying to determine how to disable this "auto standby" feature, I see no option to turn it off. The only setting I could think to try was turning off CEC.

So this leaves me two solutions.

Find out how to disable the auto standby, if that is just a setting I for some reason have not found.
Or I need to change my automation scheme so that I can add a delay and have the projector shut down first before the other equipment.

Here is a short. What turning everything on looks like from a shutdown state, then turning it off. When it goes off you will see the projector goes into standby rather than shut down, then when wake it up with the remote, I shut it down with my TV Lights command as that command only turns off the LEDS and the Projector so no equipment turns off to put it into standby mode before the shutdown.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Update: All good, can still send ADB commands in standby/sleep
It seems the first command will wake it, then the second will go thru.
Thus I wait 8 seconds for everything to shut down and the projector to be in standby, send the power off command to "wake" it, then wait a second and send the power off command again.

I can cut down the wait period, or add a second command to make the shutdown immediate but its not big deal. Say the words, walk away and it takes care of itself.
Same with turning it on, there is a boot time, but the great thing about voice control is you say the command as you walk into the room, and by the time your sitting down everything is up and running.

So with this setup all I need is the NVidia Shield remote. It can control the AVR volume, and it does all the navigation for my streaming apps.
I do occasionally need the AVR remote to switch sound modes. But two remotes is not bad, easy enough for the wife approval factor, and much better than 4+ remotes.















Update: Ok the perfectionist in me had to tune it. Shortened the wait time to 5 seconds and send the command twice so it shuts down without waiting 20 seconds. Working perfectly.

*







*


----------



## Adamgoodapp

Update from Chris Chen for those who have ordered around the 10th and got confirmation of their unit being sent to shipping company on the 18th. This fits with what *lattiboy *said that his package was waiting to be picked up for 4 days before finally being shipped.


----------



## GaeIta80

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Update: All good, can still send ADB commands in standby/sleep
> It seems the first command will wake it, then the second will go thru.
> Thus I wait 8 seconds for everything to shut down and the projector to be in standby, send the power off command to "wake" it, then wait a second and send the power off command again.
> 
> I can cut down the wait period, or add a second command to make the shutdown immediate but its not big deal. Say the words, walk away and it takes care of itself.
> Same with turning it on, there is a boot time, but the great thing about voice control is you say the command as you walk into the room, and by the time your sitting down everything is up and running.
> 
> So with this setup all I need is the NVidia Shield remote. It can control the AVR volume, and it does all the navigation for my streaming apps.
> I do occasionally need the AVR remote to switch sound modes. But two remotes is not bad, easy enough for the wife approval factor, and much better than 4+ remotes.
> 
> View attachment 3229296
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update: Ok the perfectionist in me had to tune it. Shortened the wait time to 5 seconds and send the command twice so it shuts down without waiting 20 seconds. Working perfectly.
> 
> *
> View attachment 3229333
> *


Hi there! My T1 seems already shipped and was wondering how to set up the Firestick 4k Max as standard projector boot via HDMI.

Is there an option to do so? Thanks

G.


----------



## Xspearo

Is there power on/boot delay for the T1?


----------



## Kev1000000

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Update: All good, can still send ADB commands in standby/sleep
> It seems the first command will wake it, then the second will go thru.
> Thus I wait 8 seconds for everything to shut down and the projector to be in standby, send the power off command to "wake" it, then wait a second and send the power off command again.


Nice work!! Would you mind sharing your NodeRed flow? I will definitely use this in my setup.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

GaeIta80 said:


> Hi there! My T1 seems already shipped and was wondering how to set up the Firestick 4k Max as standard projector boot via HDMI.
> 
> Is there an option to do so? Thanks
> 
> G.


Yes in the main settings menu is a automatically go to input option, and you can choose witch input.
There is also a auto change source option that I have not tried because I have only one input to the projector and the rest are on my AVR, but in theory if you were Watching your Firestick on input 1 and then turned on your Playstation on input two, it should automatically change to input two when it detects the new signal.

Being that the menu system is able to be English is good, but it would still not be good for the wife aproval factor having to turn it on, go to the menu, select the input, and then see your source material. Having it go directly to the material on boot makes this pretty seamless and family friendly, and it does that without any issue.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Kev1000000 said:


> Nice work!! Would you mind sharing your NodeRed flow? I will definitely use this in my setup.


Seems you have to manually add the ADB from configuration.yaml its not one you can add from the GUI.
So first thing I did was set a static DHCP lease for the projector on my firewall so the IP wont change.
You can probably also manually asign a IP on the projector I would assume.
Then enable ADB on the projector, its simply an option to turn on in the main system options area.

You will need to look for the projector to prompt you to allow ADB access the first time HA tries to access it, and give it permission.

Here are the configuration pieces.

Then in the configuration file:









the turn off command is not needed for Node Red, but would be important to ingratiate into the Home Assistant UI.
and of course the host would be your projectors IP

Then in NodeRed just use a Call Service Node:



















My flow is simple, I have a Local Alexa device called TV Lights that turns on the LEDs, rather than create another device since I always want the lights on with the TV/Projector I just added the ADB calls to that device.

In Alexa itself I used the native Alexa functionality to create a group called "Entertainment"
In that group I have the Nvidia Shield, TV Lights, My IR Blaster to turn on the AVR, my Tasmota Switch to turn on the Star Projector all together so they can just be all turned on and off together with one command. I only use Node Red when needed, its amazing what it can do but I try to use native functionality when possible. Such as in the Case with the Shield I used the Shields Amazon integration, and Broadlinks Alexa Intergration for the IR Blaster.

Left for my to-do list is just use one of my Hue Dimmer Switches and add on/off for the entire entertainment setup. I intercept those switches with Home Assistant so that they can do ALOT more than Hue lets them do. Up to 16 commands from those awesome little wireless switches.


----------



## GaeIta80

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Yes in the main settings menu is a automatically go to input option, and you can choose witch input.
> There is also a auto change source option that I have not tried because I have only one input to the projector and the rest are on my AVR, but in theory if you were Watching your Firestick on input 1 and then turned on your Playstation on input two, it should automatically change to input two when it detects the new signal.
> 
> Being that the menu system is able to be English is good, but it would still not be good for the wife aproval factor having to turn it on, go to the menu, select the input, and then see your source material. Having it go directly to the material on boot makes this pretty seamless and family friendly, and it does that without any issue.


Thanks a lot! Yeah was thinking to plug the 4K Max stick in HDMI 1, PS5 in HDMI 2 and eARC to the atmos soundbar 🙂


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Xspearo said:


> Is there power on/boot delay for the T1?


A setting to add delay? Or talking about just how long it takes to power on?
Setting, not that I know of.
Actual Delay? check my videos posted above for a demonstration.


----------



## Ricoflashback

I guess I'm not understanding all the complexity issues with turning this projector on and off. I run everything through my AVR. I turn on my current projector, then my AVR, then whatever remote I'm using - - cable TV or Nvidia Shield Pro. Then, I turn off my projector, turn off the AVR and I'm done. Sure, I have a lot of remotes but it doesn't seem such a hassle. What am I missing? The projector won't shut down or turn off?


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Ricoflashback said:


> I guess I'm not understanding all the complexity issues with turning this projector on and off. I run everything through my AVR. I turn on my current projector, then my AVR, then whatever remote I'm using - - cable TV or Nvidia Shield Pro. Then, I turn off my projector, turn off the AVR and I'm done. Sure, I have a lot of remotes but it doesn't seem such a hassle. What am I missing? The projector won't shut down or turn off?


As mentioned in more detail in some of my other posts.
The projector has an auto boot mode so it will come on automatically when you turn on your source device.
But this only happens if the projector is off, not in standby mode.

When you turn off your source device, the projector automatically goes in standby mode.

So then you go to turn your source material back on, and the projector will not come on without using the remote to "wake it up"

None of this is an issue if you like using all your remotes. This forum is full of enthusiast. Audio, Video, and well Home Automation.
My last string of posts was about seamlessly fully automating the projector for on/off along with all my sources so that I never have to touch the remote.

Especially I would hate having to use a dedicated remote for just one little feature (in this case power) that would be like having 26 keyboards on my computer each to type one letter. I like to be efficent, and also make everything family friendly. My girlfriend cant keep up with all my tech stuff, so I automate and make things easy.

So what I have accomplished above is only using 1 remote, my Nvidia Shield remote for everything. I never have to touch the projector remote at all, so it can be safely stored away.

It's nice to be in the kitchen and tell Alexa to turn on the entertainment area, and by the time I sit down everything is up and running, same when I am ready for bed I dont have to fumble thru all the remotes in the dark. I get up, say a word and walk to bed and everything turns itself off behind me.


----------



## Ricoflashback

ViciousXUSMC said:


> As mentioned in more detail in some of my other posts.
> The projector has an auto boot mode so it will come on automatically when you turn on your source device.
> But this only happens if the projector is off, not in standby mode.
> 
> When you turn off your source device, the projector automatically goes in standby mode.
> 
> So then you go to turn your source material back on, and the projector will not come on without using the remote to "wake it up"
> 
> None of this is an issue if you like using all your remotes. This forum is full of enthusiast. Audio, Video, and well Home Automation.
> My last string of posts was about seamlessly fully automating the projector for on/off along with all my sources so that I never have to touch the remote.
> 
> Especially I would hate having to use a dedicated remote for just one little feature (in this case power) that would be like having 26 keyboards on my computer each to type one letter. I like to be efficent, and also make everything family friendly. My girlfriend cant keep up with all my tech stuff, so I automate and make things easy.
> 
> So what I have accomplished above is only using 1 remote, my Nvidia Shield remote for everything. I never have to touch the projector remote at all, so it can be safely stored away.
> 
> It's nice to be in the kitchen and tell Alexa to turn on the entertainment area, and by the time I sit down everything is up and running, same when I am ready for bed I dont have to fumble thru all the remotes in the dark. I get up, say a word and walk to bed and everything turns itself off behind me.


You are a manly, manly, automated man. Just kidding. I've solved the WAF problem by buying a TV for her to use in her separate watching area. Keeping the home theater complex means she doesn't mess around with it. : > ) 

I tried Alexa. One night when she was visiting her parents, I said to Alexa "Send Monique in for a massage." Alexa said, "Do you want to open your garage?" End of story.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Ricoflashback said:


> You are a manly, manly, automated man. Just kidding. I've solved the WAF problem by buying a TV for her to use in her separate watching area. Keeping the home theater complex means she doesn't mess around with it. : > )
> 
> I tried Alexa. One night when she was visiting her parents, I said to Alexa "Send Monique in for a massage." Alexa said, "Do you want to open your garage?" End of story.


Automation can be great for girlfriend/wife stuff too 
In the bedroom I have about 16 LED candles and with one word, the lights go out, the candles come on, and my favorite music playlist starts.

This gets a lot of use lol.

Other qualify of life things, like when I walk into the master bedroom a string of leds turns on for 10 seconds, enough time for me to walk into the room and turn on the light switch without having to fumble around in the dark.

And my first great experience with Alexa was the broadcast feature, telling the kids to do their chores or come eat dinner without yelling across the house or having to go to their room.


----------



## Xspearo

ViciousXUSMC said:


> A setting to add delay? Or talking about just how long it takes to power on?
> Setting, not that I know of.
> Actual Delay? check my videos posted above for a demonstration.


Yes, how long it takes to actually power on and see picture. From your videos it looks to be about a 20sec delay before actual picture shows up on projector. Is this normal or is it because of the way you have it set up?


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Xspearo said:


> Yes, how long it takes to actually power on and see picture. From your videos it looks to be about a 20sec delay before actual picture shows up on projector. Is this normal or is it because of the way you have it set up?


Power on is power on, there is no delay added because I am turning it on from automation.
I think this is par for course to boot a smart projector as it has an entire OS to load.

If you have it in standby it comes on instantly as the OS is already loaded.

Now the one thing probably adding some delay is I am letting the projector auto power on from source detection (you can turn this feature off) if you press the power button to turn it on, it would start to load right away. So I would consider the time it loads to be from when you see it turn on, not how long it takes to turn on.

Then again, kind of going back to my conversation with Rico, this is a reason I like automation. I turn everything on ahead of time so its ready for me when I sit down, no wait.
But the 20 second wait is not a big deal.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Ok, I bit with Appotronics and have a T1 on the way to me. I'll be running some tests and update y'all with what we think.


----------



## Xspearo

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Power on is power on, there is no delay added because I am turning it on from automation.
> I think this is par for course to boot a smart projector as it has an entire OS to load.
> 
> If you have it in standby it comes on instantly as the OS is already loaded.
> 
> Now the one thing probably adding some delay is I am letting the projector auto power on from source detection (you can turn this feature off) if you press the power button to turn it on, it would start to load right away. So I would consider the time it loads to be from when you see it turn on, not how long it takes to turn on.
> 
> Then again, kind of going back to my conversation with Rico, this is a reason I like automation. I turn everything on ahead of time so its ready for me when I sit down, no wait.
> But the 20 second wait is not a big deal.


I'm coming from the Optoma P2 and I currently own the PX1-PRO. That is the one thing I don't miss on the P2, is that huge delay from hitting power button on remote to picture coming up.

I am not entirely sure if the PX1-PRO is in standby mode and that's why it powers on so fast. I nvr messed with any power settings. Out of box the PX1-Pro remote controlled everything (Sheild and Sonos). I attached video of me powering on the PX1-PRO below.

I just want to confirm one more time. There is about a 20sec delay between hitting power button and seeing picture? And there is a standby mode that it comes on instantly?

Ps. Please excuse the alignment of screen, I'm still working on that 😅


----------



## Brajesh

Just took delivery of mine. Ordered from Chris Chen 1/8, and it took them until 1/19 to ship it (12 days). Actual DHL transit time 6 days. Looks like custom cut deep into my box and partially tore up the box, but thankfully whatever knife they used didn't touch the projector itself. First time I've had this happen to a China import.


----------



## Ricoflashback

ProjectionHead said:


> Ok, I bit with Appotronics and have a T1 on the way to me. I'll be running some tests and update y'all with what we think.


Hooray!!! This will be the best information we'll have (in addition to the great posters on this forum, of course) since Brian and his team do a thorough job of unbiased testing. I'm curious to see what screen Brian pairs this with (Grandview Dynamique? Any other higher gain screen that makes sense?)

Very exciting news, indeed.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Brajesh said:


> Just took delivery of mine. Ordered from Chris Chen 1/8, and it took them until 1/19 to ship it (12 days). Actual DHL transit time 6 days. Looks like custom cut deep into my box and partially tore up the box, but thankfully whatever knife they used didn't touch the projector itself. First time I've had this happen to a China import.
> 
> View attachment 3229413
> View attachment 3229414
> View attachment 3229415
> View attachment 3229416


Big sucker. That's probably due to the B&W speakers and ALPD 4.0 internals? Exciting - - please let us know your impressions.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Xspearo said:


> I'm coming from the Optoma P2 and I currently own the PX1-PRO. That is the one thing I don't miss on the P2, is that huge delay from hitting power button on remote to picture coming up.
> 
> I am not entirely sure if the PX1-PRO is in standby mode and that's why it powers on so fast. I nvr messed with any power settings. Out of box the PX1-Pro remote controlled everything (Sheild and Sonos). I attached video of me powering on the PX1-PRO below.
> 
> I just want to confirm one more time. There is about a 20sec delay between hitting power button and seeing picture? And there is a standby mode that it comes on instantly?
> 
> Ps. Please excuse the alignment of screen, I'm still working on that 😅


Just tested, seems from "shut off" it still takes about 20 seconds to fully load, about 10 seconds to see the first image, and about 10 seconds to load the OS. So it seems the auto-on from HDMI was not really adding any delay to that power on sequence that is of notice.

Now when you turn your source off it goes into standby automatically, from this state it is instant on.

Or when you press the power button, you are presented with the option to shut down, or "screen off" screen off being standby.
So you can keep it in standby mode and its instant on.

However I think it MAY shut down automatically when left in standby for an extended amount of time because I thought I left it in standby last night, and this morning I had to do the full boot sequence.
However another user said it stays in standby indefinitely, so perhaps I shut it down at some point and didn't remember.

Overall no complaints here from me. I think its very responsive, I like the OS, and the display is amazing.

If I had to pick one complaint, its that even though people said this is a quite projector, I can hear it on quiet dialog scenes, sounds like a hum to me, almost the same hum that drove me nuts when I had it on my subwoofers. My girlfriend cant hear it so maybe I have special ears for this stuff.

What I cant determin is if its the processing engine making the noise or the fans. If its the fans, that means I could mod it and make it silent


----------



## ufokillerz

Brajesh said:


> Just took delivery of mine. Ordered from Chris Chen 1/8, and it took them until 1/19 to ship it (12 days). Actual DHL transit time 6 days. Looks like custom cut deep into my box and partially tore up the box, but thankfully whatever knife they used didn't touch the projector itself. First time I've had this happen to a China import.
> 
> View attachment 3229413
> View attachment 3229414
> View attachment 3229415
> View attachment 3229416


excellent! atleast people are getting them! mine was 1/10, he said shipped 1/18 getting sent to forwarder, and waiting for DHL to update still, so yours definitely moved way faster then mine, DHL doesn't show movement yet. I still have a vava chroma to compare lol. Thanks for your setup thread btw.


----------



## phchrono

ViciousXUSMC said:


> If I had to pick one complaint, its that even though people said this is a quite projector, I can hear it on quiet dialog scenes, sounds like a hum to me, almost the same hum that drove me nuts when I had it on my subwoofers. My girlfriend cant hear it so maybe I have special ears for this stuff.
> 
> What I cant determin is if its the processing engine making the noise or the fans. If its the fans, that means I could mod it and make it silent


Shame about the noise. I would have thought it to be very quiet considering the size of the VP 
Does it heat up?


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

phchrono said:


> Shame about the noise. I would have thought it to be very quiet considering the size of the VP
> Does it heat up?


Definitely lots of hot air coming out, but thats a good thing not a bad thing, that means the unit self is probably staying cool.
Other people say it is quiet, and if I used a DB meter its probably as quiet as they claim. I think its the frequency of the noise that bothers me, maybe triggering my PTSD for ground loop hum.


----------



## lattiboy

ProjectionHead said:


> Ok, I bit with Appotronics and have a T1 on the way to me. I'll be running some tests and update y'all with what we think.


that’s really exciting! You do a nice job showing honest comparisons, which I don’t ever feel like I get from any of the other even “independent“ review sites.

I will let you know out of the box the best settings for overall picture are brightness view mode and then display mode for image. It’s not as good as using certain custom settings, but I know you don’t like to unfairly advantage projectors.

Also, in the main menu under “complex” there is an auto mode that I have disabled. It is supposed to automatically pick the right picture mode, but you can’t tell what it’s doing. It is on by default.


----------



## tovaxxx

I also hit the mark today. Fengmi T1 & Vividstorm 120". Shipment should take place on 13.02. I am curious.


----------



## GaeIta80

tovaxxx said:


> I also hit the mark today. Fengmi T1 & Vividstorm 120". Shipment should take place on 13.02. I am curious.


Well done mate, my T1 shipped today (bought yesterday) from Belgium warehouse and should be here soon...white wall until a proper vividstorm 100 or 120" 🚀💥


----------



## tovaxxx

If you can.... take the 120"


----------



## Tanizhq

I'm wondering if theres any screen out there which doesnt need to be mounted with drill holes etc? 
(Non retractable ones, as I hear the material can ripple with temperature variances)


----------



## zoomx2

Ricoflashback said:


> Much thanks! I believe this is in millimeters, correct? For a minute, there, I thought I'd have to do a "Chi" conversion.
> [/QUOT





Brajesh said:


> Just took delivery of mine. Ordered from Chris Chen 1/8, and it took them until 1/19 to ship it (12 days). Actual DHL transit time 6 days. Looks like custom cut deep into my box and partially tore up the box, but thankfully whatever knife they used didn't touch the projector itself. First time I've had this happen to a China import.
> 
> View attachment 3229413
> View attachment 3229414
> View attachment 3229415
> View attachment 3229416


UPS updates not delivery today


----------



## GaeIta80

tovaxxx said:


> If you can.... take the 120"


I have 1 problem...this embedded shelf on the wall (Xmas shot!). The T1 would go under the shelf with a sliding tray.

So I could rather go floor rising from the shelf up with 100/110" max or drop down with 120" (screenshots attached)









Any other ideas? 😊


----------



## chrisdu46

GaeIta80 said:


> D'autres idées ? 😊


Yes ! break the shelf for 150"


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

GaeIta80 said:


> I have 1 problem...this embedded shelf on the wall (Xmas shot!). The T1 would go under the shelf with a sliding tray.
> 
> So I could rather go floor rising from the shelf up with 100/110" max or drop down with 120" (screenshots attached)
> View attachment 3229516
> 
> 
> Any other ideas? 😊


Bigger is usually better.
Depends on your personal taste, how far your sitting etc.

A couple of opinions.

One unlike a TV where going from a 75" to a 100" is a HUGE cost increase, the wonderful thing about a projector, is the projector cost the same no matter what size you want to project, and the cost difference in screen size is pretty negligible. So why not take advantage of all it can offer and go for as big a screen as possible?

However its possible to go too big for space, be that size constraints on the space or sitting so close that its not comfortable to view.

Lastly I think Audio is JUST AS IMPORTANT as video. If your screen ends up taking all your space leaving you without room for a good audio system, I would sacrifice some screen size for sure to have room to install some solid speakers.

I downsized from the 120" to the 115" so I would have room to mount my height speakers and have room to put tower speakers on each side of the screen.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Ricoflashback said:


> Hooray!!! This will be the best information we'll have (in addition to the great posters on this forum, of course) since Brian and his team do a thorough job of unbiased testing. I'm curious to see what screen Brian pairs this with (Grandview Dynamique? Any other higher gain screen that makes sense?)
> 
> Very exciting news, indeed.


I've got the Grandview Dynamique, Vividstorm, Hisense, Elite DarkUST, SI Short throw (but only an 80" model) and more.

Not sure where to begin...

Heck, If I'm impressed enough by the Fengmi, we may start carrying them while I wait for my private label ALDP 4.0/5.0 to be designed


----------



## humax

ProjectionHead said:


> I've got the Grandview Dynamique, Vividstorm, Hisense, Elite DarkUST, SI Short throw (but only an 80" model) and more.



If I am not mistaken the Dynamique is a 0.4 gain screen. This would be a good starting choice in order to get as low a black floor as possible with the Fengmi. The T1 also has the extra brightness for it.


----------



## hsy541

Where do you guys order fengmi t1? I'm very interested


----------



## hsy541

I saw banggood is selling fengmi t1. Is it reliable?


----------



## mayaCH

I could put a 135“ fixed frame screen easily, still space for speakers and good viewing distance. Just can‘t find any, so will go with 120“ Elite Aeon CLR. Grandview PE-L120DY3 is not available before June here.


----------



## Brajesh

I've done initial testing for about 2 hours, using Zidoo Z9X, Shield TV Pro and T1's internal video player. So far, I have mixed feelings vs. my Wemax A300. I should say A300 paired w/HDFury really took the A300's PQ to a whole another level of performance.

My T1 unit didn't come already set to English, but thanks to @ngcoolman's helpful post earlier in the thread here, was able to switch to English. I like the menus/GUI, a significant improvement over older Xiaomi 4K & my A300. Easier to get to various settings, and more customization abilities, except for the continued single custom picture mode only as we've been getting to date.

Focus/uniformity is better on my A300. On my approx 142" screen, I had to go to one extreme end (left) to get focus as good as I could in all 4 corners, and even then, the top left & right didn't focus as well as I'd have liked. Here's the best I could get...




















I also see slight chromatic aberration, with color fringing, similar to the VAVA Chroma I had for a couple of weeks. Not as bad as Chroma's however.

Blacks & contrast on T1 seem on par with A300 to me so far. Like the Chroma, T1's colors are richer, bolder, maybe to a fault (until we find ways to address this via settings). In the Dolby Vision 'Glass Blowing' sample, I see what others have posted. There's noticeable red push. I dare say my A300's PQ on this w/HDFury looks better, more natural. Using HDFury w/T1 makes the DV PQ better, but I don't see the point of getting a native DV projector to then use HDFury. Maybe take advantage of the wider color gamut.

On motion handling, I set T1's MEMC to low and find it does a decent job w/o the soap opera effect. I definitely see occasional judder on A300 (which has no MEMC), so T1 may be better here.

So, we know DV works, but what about HDR10+? I'm not sure T1 supports it. I first tried via Zidoo Z9X, which is supposed to support it, and I only see a HDR10 indicator. And, when I play the HDR10+ Dynamic Metadata Test video, I don't see any tonemapping going on when there are intentional shifts in contrast & brightness. Same was true when I put the samples on a USB stick & used the T1's internal video player.

For giggles, being a 3D fan, tried 3D MVC & ISO files, and as expected, it doesn't work...








I even tried forcing HDMI 1.4 on T1 & 3D mode on my Zidoo, and I get over/under images w/no way to combine.

So, still early, but I'm on the fence. With A300, I get better sharpness & color accuracy (especially paired w/HDFury), as well as full 3D support, but not as good color range/depth as T1, nor true dynamic tone mapping w/pure DV (vs. a hacked experience). Motion handling is better on T1, which is nice for movies (and really most content that we have in 24p). Contrast & blacks are about the same. Will need to test more & see what to do.

Oh, one more thing for now... HDMI on T1 is finicky, fussy, especially for longer cable runs it seems. I have a 40ft fiber optic HDMI cable going from my AVR (new Onkyo RZ50), and it sometimes takes multiple attempts for the T1 to accept my Zidoo or Shield input.


----------



## humax

Thank you for your input! Your opinion as the owner of a Wemax A300 and a former owner of the Chroma is welcome. There is always going to be some minimal softness and CA with these tri-lasers due to laser misalignment. However, you really need to go with a well-tensioned ALR screen with these USTs, before reaching fully credible conclusions on focus, softness and color reproduction issues. A white and wrong gain screen with even the tiniest wave or wrinkle will only further accentuate an UST's lens issues and is not an optimal testing companion. If these issues also show up on a properly set up ALR, then yes you do have an actual problem. Enjoy your new projector!


----------



## Ricoflashback

Brajesh said:


> I've done initial testing for about 2 hours, using Zidoo Z9X, Shield TV Pro and T1's internal video player. So far, I have mixed feelings vs. my Wemax A300. I should say A300 paired w/HDFury, which really took the A300's PQ to a whole another level of performance.
> 
> My T1 unit didn't come already set to English, but thanks to @ngcoolman's helpful post earlier in the thread here, was able to switch to English. I like the menus/GUI, a significant improvement over older Xiaomi 4K & my A300. Easier to get to various settings, and more customization abilities, except for the continued single custom picture mode only as we've been getting to date.
> 
> Focus/uniformity is better on my A300. On my approx 142" screen, I had to go to one extreme end (left) to get focus as good as I could in all 4 corners, and even then, the top left & right didn't focus as well as I'd have liked. Here's the best I could get...
> View attachment 3229634
> View attachment 3229636
> View attachment 3229635
> 
> 
> I also see slight chromatic aberration, with color fringing, similar to the VAVA Chroma I had for a couple of weeks. Not as bad as Chroma's however.
> 
> Blacks & contrast on T1 seem on par with A300 to me so far. Like the Chroma, T1's colors are richer, bolder, maybe to a fault (until we find ways to address this via settings). In the Dolby Vision 'Glass Blowing' sample, I see what others have posted. There's noticeable red push. I dare say my A300's PQ on this w/HDFury looks better, more natural. Using HDFury w/T1 makes the DV PQ better, but I don't see the point of getting a native DV projector to then use HDFury. Maybe take advantage of the wider color gamut.
> 
> On motion handling, I set T1's MEMC to low and find it does a decent job w/o the soap opera effect. I definitely see occasional judder on A300 (which has no MEMC), so T1 may be better here.
> 
> So, we know DV works, but what about HDR10+? I'm not sure T1 supports it. I first tried via Zidoo Z9X, which is supposed to support it, and I only see a HDR10 indicator. And, when I play the HDR10+ Dynamic Metadata Test video, I don't see any tonemapping going on when there are intentional shifts in contrast & brightness. Same was true when I put the samples on a USB stick & used the T1's internal video player.
> 
> For giggles, being a 3D fan, tried 3D MVC & ISO files, and as expected, it doesn't work...
> View attachment 3229650
> 
> 
> I even tried forcing HDMI 1.4 on T1 & 3D mode on my Zidoo, and I get over/under images w/no way to combine.
> 
> So, still early, but I'm on the fence. With A300, I get better sharpness & color accuracy (especially paired w/HDFury), as well as full 3D support, but not as good color range/depth as T1, nor true dynamic tone mapping w/pure DV (vs. a hacked experience). Motion handling is better on T1, which is nice for movies (and really most content that we have in 24p). Contrast & blacks are about the same. Will need to test more & see what to do.
> 
> Oh, one more thing for now... HDMI on T1 is finicky, fussy, especially for longer cable runs it seems. I have a 40ft fiber optic HDMI cable going from my AVR (new Onkyo RZ50), and it sometimes takes multiple attempts for the T1 to accept my Zidoo or Shield input.


What type of screen are you using? Also - I suspect that larger screen sizes like yours (142”) start bumping up against the max screen size capability of these UST PJ’s. Perhaps that’s where the CA and sharpness issues come in as it’s best not to use any keystone adjustments. Probably much easier with a smaller screen size - 120” and under. Please keep posting your impressions.


----------



## teros

Hi all new to the forum have been reading through and the Tengmi T1 looks pretty sweet. Just wondering who people are purchasing through for Australia? I've seen the Alibaba postings and have looked at NothingLablel but thinking if I buy from overseas or an Australian based supplier I'm going to be stuck going back and fourth anyway. Is Wupro Jason the best for price and delivery and also support?


----------



## ngcoolman

Brajesh said:


> I've done initial testing for about 2 hours, using Zidoo Z9X, Shield TV Pro and T1's internal video player. So far, I have mixed feelings vs. my Wemax A300. I should say A300 paired w/HDFury, which really took the A300's PQ to a whole another level of performance.
> 
> My T1 unit didn't come already set to English, but thanks to @ngcoolman's helpful post earlier in the thread here, was able to switch to English. I like the menus/GUI, a significant improvement over older Xiaomi 4K & my A300. Easier to get to various settings, and more customization abilities, except for the continued single custom picture mode only as we've been getting to date.
> 
> Focus/uniformity is better on my A300. On my approx 142" screen, I had to go to one extreme end (left) to get focus as good as I could in all 4 corners, and even then, the top left & right didn't focus as well as I'd have liked. Here's the best I could get...
> View attachment 3229634
> View attachment 3229636
> View attachment 3229635
> 
> 
> I also see slight chromatic aberration, with color fringing, similar to the VAVA Chroma I had for a couple of weeks. Not as bad as Chroma's however.
> 
> Blacks & contrast on T1 seem on par with A300 to me so far. Like the Chroma, T1's colors are richer, bolder, maybe to a fault (until we find ways to address this via settings). In the Dolby Vision 'Glass Blowing' sample, I see what others have posted. There's noticeable red push. I dare say my A300's PQ on this w/HDFury looks better, more natural. Using HDFury w/T1 makes the DV PQ better, but I don't see the point of getting a native DV projector to then use HDFury. Maybe take advantage of the wider color gamut.
> 
> On motion handling, I set T1's MEMC to low and find it does a decent job w/o the soap opera effect. I definitely see occasional judder on A300 (which has no MEMC), so T1 may be better here.
> 
> So, we know DV works, but what about HDR10+? I'm not sure T1 supports it. I first tried via Zidoo Z9X, which is supposed to support it, and I only see a HDR10 indicator. And, when I play the HDR10+ Dynamic Metadata Test video, I don't see any tonemapping going on when there are intentional shifts in contrast & brightness. Same was true when I put the samples on a USB stick & used the T1's internal video player.
> 
> For giggles, being a 3D fan, tried 3D MVC & ISO files, and as expected, it doesn't work...
> View attachment 3229650
> 
> 
> I even tried forcing HDMI 1.4 on T1 & 3D mode on my Zidoo, and I get over/under images w/no way to combine.
> 
> So, still early, but I'm on the fence. With A300, I get better sharpness & color accuracy (especially paired w/HDFury), as well as full 3D support, but not as good color range/depth as T1, nor true dynamic tone mapping w/pure DV (vs. a hacked experience). Motion handling is better on T1, which is nice for movies (and really most content that we have in 24p). Contrast & blacks are about the same. Will need to test more & see what to do.
> 
> Oh, one more thing for now... HDMI on T1 is finicky, fussy, especially for longer cable runs it seems. I have a 40ft fiber optic HDMI cable going from my AVR (new Onkyo RZ50), and it sometimes takes multiple attempts for the T1 to accept my Zidoo or Shield input.


From my experience, the red tint problem disappears in non-DV HDR mode. It will be interesting to know how well the combo T1/HDFury can achieve.


----------



## ProjectionHead

humax said:


> Fengmi is also introducing a retractable, telescopic high quality wooden stand for its UST products. The price is a bit steep, but it may be useful for some projector owners.
> 
> Fengmi Formovie Laser TV Telescopic Stand T1 Smart TV Cabinet Extension PTZ Ultra short Focus Projector Stand Retractable Table|Smart Remote Control| - AliExpress


I’ve actually sourced an almost identical one myself and have some demo units coming in to evaluate expected in 1-2 weeks.
The one I’ve been working on is triggered by the projectors USB to make the tray slide out to preset distance when you power up the UST.
What are y’all thoughts on the price of this from Aliexpress?


----------



## Sunbox2408

teros said:


> Hi all new to the forum have been reading through and the Tengmi T1 looks pretty sweet. Just wondering who people are purchasing through for Australia? I've seen the Alibaba postings and have looked at NothingLablel but thinking if I buy from overseas or an Australian based supplier I'm going to be stuck going back and fourth anyway. Is Wupro Jason the best for price and delivery and also support?


Hey mate, I was in the exact same delimma, and then pulled the trigger with nothing but label only because they have a local office in Australia (North sydney). Their price was aud $2999 + $450 shipping from China warehouse which is comparable to Jason's price (circa $50 dearer) but counting on local after sales atm however do not know how will it turn out. I found their website a bit misleading as it says free shipping and even the order goes through without shipping cost. They send a separate payment link for the shipping fees. Ordered 2 days ago, dun have the shipping details so far however Eric has said that the shipment has been handed over to the shipping forwarder.


----------



## asc671

ProjectionHead said:


> I’ve actually sourced an almost identical one myself and have some demo units coming in to evaluate expected in 1-2 weeks.
> The one I’ve been working on is triggered by the projectors USB to make the tray slide out to preset distance when you power up the UST.
> What are y’all thoughts on the price of this from Aliexpress?


It does seem a bit pricey but really hard to judge from pictures alone.  The build quality could be great I don’t like the wood trim though. I prefer either a matte black to cut down on reflections and also because I prefer a more modern look. Black is also easier to integrate with different styles/colors of cabinets/stands.

Is CarbonBlack ever going to send you their nanotech screens??


----------



## Xspearo

teros said:


> Hi all new to the forum have been reading through and the Tengmi T1 looks pretty sweet. Just wondering who people are purchasing through for Australia? I've seen the Alibaba postings and have looked at NothingLablel but thinking if I buy from overseas or an Australian based supplier I'm going to be stuck going back and fourth anyway. Is Wupro Jason the best for price and delivery and also support?


I had quotes from both of Chris and Jason but decided to go with Jason. Both were super nice, but a couple people on here said there was a slight delay with Chris. I paid like $50-$60 more, but so far I am happy with my decision. I paid today and he shipped today. I have tracking from DHL already and email from DHL saying it will be here on the 1st of February.


----------



## mayaCH

480.0US $ |Teleskop Bühne von Laser Projektor, Verwenden für Xiaomi Laser Projektor etc, automatische Booth für 4k Laser Projektor,|Projektor-Zubehör| - AliExpress


Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com




de.aliexpress.com




looks better for my taste than the fengmi slide. but i would build something static for my pj cabinet, don't like the cables being stressed every time it slides back and forth.


----------



## ProjectionHead

asc671 said:


> It does seem a bit pricey but really hard to judge from pictures alone. The build quality could be great I don’t like the wood trim though. I prefer either a matte black to cut down on reflections and also because I prefer a more modern look. Black is also easier to integrate with different styles/colors of cabinets/stands.
> 
> Is CarbonBlack ever going to send you their nanotech screens??


The tray we have coming in is large black for those very reasons. They are HEAVY too, like 2x+ the weight of the projector.
I’ll post a video of it in action and would love some feedback from y’all. The Aliexpress type pricing seen in the fengmi should be expected on this.
They ended up only sending me tiny swatches since their factory was shut down/delayed due to Covid outbreak; not the full size screen as promised 
That’s taking a backseat right now while we focus on some testing of a new UST ALR screen that we may carry. Not a private label, but a new brand whom we’ve worked with to incorporate the best features of all the screens we’ve tested and address the negatives we’ve seen.
Also got a big backlog of shootout videos and blog posts to get through.
Hopefully carbon black can get us the screen large enough to get their testing re-prioritized soon.


----------



## wltam

FYI - after contacting their formovie teams.


----------



## Xspearo

wltam said:


> FYI - after contacting their formovie teams.
> 
> View attachment 3229841


I wonder if this mean in the US they will use Android OS and people that purchased it already will be able to switch.


----------



## wltam

Xspearo said:


> I wonder if this mean in the US they will use Android OS and people that purchased it already will be able to switch.


Unfortunately not, see below...


----------



## Ampro4600

Hope this is relevant to this thread (seems to already be talk about screens and projector "trays".

Anyone seen this:


----------



## Xspearo

wltam said:


> Unfortunately not, see below...
> 
> View attachment 3229844


Wow, well that's a little unfortunate. I wonder why it would be an issue if it's the same product with same internals. I'm sure there will be a way or someone figure out a work around. Just unfortunate they wouldn't allow it or support it.


----------



## Adamgoodapp

Sounds like they don't want to take the risk of updating OS on their side but could still work if the user does it them self. If anything like the previous devices, it might be better to stick to the FengmiOS.


----------



## Xspearo

Adamgoodapp said:


> Sounds like they don't want to take the risk of updating OS on their side but could still work if the user does it them self. If anything like the previous devices, it might be better to stick to the FengmiOS.


Sorry, What was the issue with previous models?

Also my biggest interest would be more customization of the picture modes and such. Im also just use to AndroidOS, maybe FengOS isn't that bad.


----------



## Adamgoodapp

I read that in the previous Xiaomis for example, the FengmiOS has more image customization options vs the Global version.


----------



## Xspearo

Adamgoodapp said:


> I read that in the previous Xiaomis for example, the FengmiOS has more image customization options vs the Global version.


From what people in this thread have been saying is so far there isn't much picture customization besides the one custom mode. If this is true, I hope there will be a future update to allow customization of every picture mode individually.


----------



## humax

wltam said:


> Unfortunately not, see below...
> 
> View attachment 3229844



I don't think you can use international firmware versions for already sold Chinese models in a risk free manner. Sure, if you are knowledgeable enough you can try, but you risk bricking a 2000$+ machine. If the international version has a decent AndroidOS implementation and is also 3D capable, it might be worth waiting for, provided that there are no differences in picture quality.


----------



## CabbageMan

wltam said:


> Unfortunately not, see below...
> 
> View attachment 3229844


I mean it seems like the only difference is FengOS vs Android. Which if that's the case definitely doesn't matter to me as I would be using a streaming stick with it. If there are other differences, it may make me wanna wait.


----------



## GaeIta80

CabbageMan said:


> I mean it seems like the only difference is FengOS vs Android. Which if that's the case definitely doesn't matter to me as I would be using a streaming stick with it. If there are other differences, it may make me wanna wait.


The limit of Android TV systems: always lacking Netflix...so you will need a 4k stick anyway and then CN or Global won't make any difference. Just supporting more languages but image settings wise, Chinese version always allowed more settings than Global ones (usually more expensive than CN imported version)


----------



## CabbageMan

GaeIta80 said:


> The limit of Android TV systems: always lacking Netflix...so you will always need a 4k stick and then CN or Global won't make any difference. Just supporting more languages but image settings why, Chinese version always allowed more settings than Global ones.


Yeah that's exactly why AndroidTv doesn't matter to me, no netflix. Hopefully the customization is something that would just be an update and not something that would be specific to the global version.


----------



## GaeIta80

CabbageMan said:


> Yeah that's exactly why AndroidTv doesn't matter to me, no netflix. Hopefully the customization is something that would just be an update and not something that would be specific to the global version.


If they fix the red DV tint issue, I am good for the next 3-4 years lol 😆


----------



## Brajesh

Ricoflashback said:


> What type of screen are you using? Also - I suspect that larger screen sizes like yours (142”) start bumping up against the max screen size capability of these UST PJ’s. Perhaps that’s where the CA and sharpness issues come in as it’s best not to use any keystone adjustments. Probably much easier with a smaller screen size - 120” and under. Please keep posting your impressions.


Silver Ticket white 1.1 gain. Yes, going beyond 120" is stretching it some for UST's, but the focus issue is more pronounced on T1 than A300. Forgot to mention it was the same w/VAVA Chroma, so I'm wondering if it's a tri-laser issue.



ngcoolman said:


> From my experience, the red tint problem disappears in non-DV HDR mode. It will be interesting to know how well the combo T1/HDFury can achieve.


Noticed this as well, and did also try w/my HDFury VRROOM, and it eliminates the red push. But, PQ seemed the same as A300's. Need to evaluate further, but basically I didn't see T1's wider color gamut making the DV samples & movie scenes I tested look any better/different w/HDFury vs. A300. Is there any DV movie or sample out there to test dynamic tonemapping? Think this is what's lost w/HDFury in the mix, but scene-by-scene tonemapping should be retained w/the native DV in T1.



Xspearo said:


> From what people in this thread have been saying is so far there isn't much picture customization besides the one custom mode. If this is true, I hope there will be a future update to allow customization of every picture mode individually.


This has been the case for all Xiaomi/Fengmi/Wemax UST's I think. As soon as you make any adjustments to any one of the preset picture modes, that now becomes the custom. @spocky12 has an app to allow different picture profiles, so once he gets his T1, maybe he can devise a similar solution for it.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Ampro4600 said:


> Hope this is relevant to this thread (seems to already be talk about screens and projector "trays".
> 
> Anyone seen this:


White on black doesn’t make any sense to me. Where does the center speaker go? If you use the projector speakers, how can you hear anything with it totally covered? Seven guys to move it? If any of the mechanics break down, you have a worthless piece of furniture like the 1960’s cabinet stereos. DOA for me. Thanks for the posting but I’ll stick with a Furnitech cabinet that can discretely hide my components including my large center speaker combined with a fixed ALR screen.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Brajesh said:


> Silver Ticket white 1.1 gain. Yes, going beyond 120" is stretching it some for UST's, but the focus issue is more pronounced on T1 than A300. Forgot to mention it was the same w/VAVA Chroma, so I'm wondering if it's a tri-laser issue.
> 
> 
> Noticed this as well, and did also try w/my HDFury VRROOM, and it eliminates the red push. But, PQ seemed the same as A300's. Need to evaluate further, but basically I didn't see T1's wider color gamut making the DV samples & movie scenes I tested look any better/different w/HDFury vs. A300. Is there any DV movie or sample out there to test dynamic tonemapping? Think this is what's lost w/HDFury in the mix, but scene-by-scene tonemapping should be retained w/the native DV in T1.
> 
> 
> This has been the case for all Xiaomi/Fengmi/Wemax UST's I think. As soon as you make any adjustments to any one of the preset picture modes, that now becomes the custom. @spocky12 has an app to allow different picture profiles, so once he gets his T1, maybe he can devise a similar solution for it.


Love SilverTicket screens. I have an electronic white matte, 1.1 screen that works great for my regular throw projector. I think an ALR screen would work better with these UST projectors. Personal preference but I‘d just turn of DV if there were any issues. Lots of mixed reviews with the HD Fury solution. To me, the cure is worse than the disease if you have to use these type of workarounds. I’d live with HDR until a fix is found or a reasonably priced processor is available. Thanks for posting.


----------



## Ricoflashback

This is a wild flyer but does anyone know of a masking, UST ALR fixed screen? Horizontal masking would work the best since with every UST I’ve seen - you’re locked into a 16 x 9 aspect ratio.


----------



## Ampro4600

Is there any word on the newer "international" version will be ALDP 5.0? (someone mentioned it I think)


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Unfortunatly the center is too large to fit above and behind the projector like I had intended so it has to stay below it. Center speaker setup is definitely one of the pitfalls for UST.


----------



## mirkmito

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Unfortunatly the center is too large to fit above and behind the projector like I had intended so it has to stay below it.


Placed vertically or horizontally?


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

mirkmito said:


> Placed vertically or horizontally?


Horizontal.


----------



## DeanM3

I am venturing a guess here that the International vs Chinese models have some licensing implications. The Chinese domestic model probably has significantly lower licensing costs per unit for some other tech they might be using ( B&W, Dolby Vision, etc).


----------



## Ricoflashback

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Horizontal.


I just don't see an easy answer for a center speaker with a UST Projector. You could have it on a stand, in front of the cabinet but the aesthetics would look terrible. You could try an in-wall center but I'm not sure if they make acoustic UST ALR screens. Perhaps an on-wall, horizontal center but then you need to route the speaker wire in the wall to hide it. 

My center will be lower than optimal (angled up to the seats in front) as I finally found a Furnitech stand that can house my very large, center speaker while handling all the other components with enough ventilation. That way, the PJ can fit on top and everything else is hidden. The middle "doors" have slats or vents and can be opened for TV time (slid left and right) and then closed to hide everything in a living room environment. Always trade-offs in life.


----------



## 3sprit

GaeIta80 said:


> The limit of Android TV systems: always lacking Netflix...so you will need a 4k stick anyway and then CN or Global won't make any difference. Just supporting more languages but image settings wise, Chinese version always allowed more settings than Global ones (usually more expensive than CN imported version)


March is near: we'll see ...


----------



## mirkmito

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Horizontal.





Ricoflashback said:


> I just don't see an easy answer for a center speaker with a UST Projector. You could have it on a stand, in front of the cabinet but the aesthetics would look terrible. You could try an in-wall center but I'm not sure if they make acoustic UST ALR screens. Perhaps an on-wall, horizontal center but then you need to route the speaker wire in the wall to hide it.
> 
> My center will be lower than optimal (angled up to the seats in front) as I finally found a Furnitech stand that can house my very large, center speaker while handling all the other components with enough ventilation. That way, the PJ can fit on top and everything else is hidden. The middle "doors" have slats or vents and can be opened for TV time (slid left and right) and then closed to hide everything in a living room environment. Always trade-offs in life.



In theory with Focal cc 900 and its 20 cm in height... it shouldn't have any problems


----------



## Ricoflashback

mirkmito said:


> In theory with Focal cc 900 and its 20 cm in height... it shouldn't have any problems


Yes, lots of potential solutions. But my center speaker is 10" H × 37.25" W × 16.5" D (25.4cm × 94.6cm × 41.9cm) and weights 70 lbs. It's a perfect match, timbre wise, with my Paradigm Studio 60 V.5 L/R speakers. Anyone with a separate sound system has the same problem. Fengmi could have made the T1 capable of being a center speaker - - that I would have tried and is the easiest solution. Then, you might be able to pair it with B & W L/R speakers.


----------



## Grumi

3sprit said:


> March is near: we'll see ...


I would hope that the global version comes with the proper channels and retailers !?


----------



## mirkmito

Grumi said:


> I would hope that the global version come with the proper channels and retailers !?


It will cost more....


----------



## Grumi

mirkmito said:


> It will cost more....


If the performances are there compared to the competition, i'm personnally willing to pay more with local retailers than on Banggood. It will still be cheaper than a px1-pro sio it might still be worth it (Still waiting for Brian and Gregory's tests and shoutouts).


----------



## Ricoflashback

Grumi said:


> If the performances are there compared to the competition, i'm personnally willing to pay more with local retailers than on Banggood. It will still be cheaper than a px1-pro sio it might still be worth it (Still waiting for Brian and Gregory's tests and shoutouts).


It will be great to see a direct comparison of the PX1-Pro versus the Fengmi T1. Especially relative to black levels. It looks like the PX1-Pro is much more user friendly with more control customizations. But in the end - - to me, it's all about picture quality, black levels, color, pop and sharpness.


----------



## mirkmito

Grumi said:


> If the performances are there compared to the competition, i'm personnally willing to pay more with local retailers than on Banggood. It will still be cheaper than a px1-pro sio it might still be worth it (Still waiting for Brian and Gregory's tests and shoutouts).


We will have to wait... if it exceeds € 1000 it makes no sense


----------



## Casey_Bryson

The global versions have been worse in every way and there are 3 generations of examples,, Completely removing 3D or significantly less lumen output. 

It's almost as if they want the world to have a lesser version. Makes no sense.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Casey_Bryson said:


> The global versions have been worse in every way and there are 3 generations of examples,, Completely removing 3D or significantly less lumen output.
> 
> It's almost as if they want the world to have a lesser version. Makes no sense.


The T1 doesn't have 3D to being with. So, doubtful that the global version will have 3D? Also - - from everything I've read, ALPD 5.0 is a mystery right now. No idea on what it brings to the table.


----------



## Ricoflashback

??? Available from Wal-Mart??? 



Robot or human?



It doesn't look like the T1 but soon available from Wal-Mart? Kind of bizarre.


----------



## mayaCH

Ricoflashback said:


> ??? Available from Wal-Mart???
> 
> 
> 
> Robot or human?
> 
> 
> 
> It doesn't look like the T1 but soon available from Wal-Mart? Kind of bizarre.


this is probably the older model from 2019, fengmi 4k cinema pro
since no version of aldp is stated, could be 2.0/3.0, also no ansi lumen, so might be 2400


----------



## Ricoflashback

mayaCH said:


> this is probably the older model from 2019, fengmi 4k cinema pro
> since no version of aldp is stated, could be 2.0/3.0, also no ansi lumen, so might be 2400


I think it's ALPD 3.0. It's interesting that the contrast specs are higher than the T1. But I don't trust published contrast numbers any more. You have to see it to believe it.


----------



## lattiboy

Ricoflashback said:


> I think it's ALPD 3.0. It's interesting that the contrast specs are higher than the T1. But I don't trust published contrast numbers any more. You have to see it to believe it.


I believe the Fengmi Cinema 2 is still the highest contrast Gregory has ever measured for a DLP PJ, but the Xaomi C2 and (probably) the T1 are very close.


----------



## 3sprit

Grumi said:


> I would hope that the global version comes with the proper channels and retailers !?


It would be perfect with a true two year warranty.


----------



## mirkmito

3sprit said:


> It would be perfect with a true two year warranty.


A quale costo...??
Sicuro ce da scordarsi il prezzo di 2300€

Un esempio è il vava chroma...quasi raddoppiato il prezzo da quando è iniziata la distribuzione internazionale 😉

Bisogna poi vedere chi è il fornitore qui in italia...
Perche di sicuro in caso di problemi lo spedisco sempre in cina...


----------



## Ricoflashback

mirkmito said:


> A quale costo...??
> Sicuro ce da scordarsi il prezzo di 2300€
> 
> Un esempio è il vava chroma...quasi raddoppiato il prezzo da quando è iniziata la distribuzione internazionale 😉
> 
> Bisogna poi vedere chi è il fornitore qui in italia...
> Perche di sicuro in caso di problemi lo spedisco sempre in cina...


Translation:

At what cost ... ??
Sure to forget the price of 2300 €

One example is vava chroma ... almost doubled the price since international distribution began 😉

Then we need to see who is the supplier here in Italy ...
Because for sure in case of problems I always send it to china ...


----------



## Brajesh

lattiboy said:


> I believe the Fengmi Cinema 2 is still the highest contrast Gregory has ever measured for a DLP PJ, but the Xaomi C2 and (probably) the T1 are very close.


Talking about VAVA Chroma, a user in the 3K+ forum measured contrast at 3500:1. Impressive if true, but I found its blacks fell short of Xiaomi/Fengmi/Wemax.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Brajesh said:


> Talking about VAVA Chroma, a user in the 3K+ forum measured contrast at 3500:1. Impressive if true, but I found its blacks fell short of Xiaomi/Fengmi/Wemax.


That's the interesting thing about contrast figures. Do they pass the eye test? With all the fudging on contrast ratios, I trust AVS Forum contributors more than any stated specs from a manufacturer.


----------



## GaeIta80

and the T1 from nothingbutlabel EU warehouse will arrive this Friday morning, just got confirmation from UPS 😛

That was quick, bought last Monday...4 working days 😊


----------



## GaeIta80

And just noticed now they are offering a professional calibration service for T1 Red issue & optimal PQ for €188 ONLY if you purchase from their CN stock









Fengmi Formovie Wemax XY Screen Home Theater Laser Projector


We Nothingbutlabel is a certified global distributor for Fengmi Ultra Short Throw Home Theater Laser Projectors, XY PET CRYSTAL screen, Vividstorm floor rising screen. We also have brand like Fengmi, Formovie, Wemax, Appotronics 4k Max, 4k Pro, T1, Vogue, Dice, R1, R1 Nano, D30, A300.




nothingbutlabel.com


----------



## Ricoflashback

GaeIta80 said:


> And just noticed now they are offering a professional calibration service for T1 Red issue & optimal PQ for €188 ONLY if you purchase from their CN stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fengmi Formovie Wemax XY Screen Home Theater Laser Projector
> 
> 
> We Nothingbutlabel is a certified global distributor for Fengmi Ultra Short Throw Home Theater Laser Projectors, XY PET CRYSTAL screen, Vividstorm floor rising screen. We also have brand like Fengmi, Formovie, Wemax, Appotronics 4k Max, 4k Pro, T1, Vogue, Dice, R1, R1 Nano, D30, A300.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nothingbutlabel.com


Sounds like something Value Electronics does here in the states. OK - who is the first guinea pig to go for it? And, post the results? I'll kick in to a $5 dollar "Go Fund My T1 Calibration" to get the ball rolling.


----------



## DeanM3

Ricoflashback said:


> Sounds like something Value Electronics does here in the states. OK - who is the first guinea pig to go for it? And, post the results? I'll kick in to a $5 dollar "Go Fund My T1 Calibration" to get the ball rolling.


There are no adjustable settings available in DV mode..... so I'm not sure what they can offer here.


----------



## GaeIta80

DeanM3 said:


> There are no adjustable settings available in DV mode..... so I'm not sure what they can offer here.


Yeah I was wondering the same...😝


----------



## lattiboy

GaeIta80 said:


> And just noticed now they are offering a professional calibration service for T1 Red issue & optimal PQ for €188 ONLY if you purchase from their CN stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fengmi Formovie Wemax XY Screen Home Theater Laser Projector
> 
> 
> We Nothingbutlabel is a certified global distributor for Fengmi Ultra Short Throw Home Theater Laser Projectors, XY PET CRYSTAL screen, Vividstorm floor rising screen. We also have brand like Fengmi, Formovie, Wemax, Appotronics 4k Max, 4k Pro, T1, Vogue, Dice, R1, R1 Nano, D30, A300.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nothingbutlabel.com


Yeah…. So that sure seems like a lot of money to adjust white balance… and unless they have a hack it won’t do anything for DV mode. Very weird as they’re a pretty respectable outfit as far as I know.


----------



## Ricoflashback

lattiboy said:


> Yeah…. So that sure seems like a lot of money to adjust white balance… and unless they have a hack it won’t do anything for DV mode. Very weird as they’re a pretty respectable outfit as far as I know.


I've got an Email out to Eric at Nothingbutlabel to see if we can get a clarification.


----------



## humax

DeanM3 said:


> There are no adjustable settings available in DV mode..... so I'm not sure what they can offer here.



They have some way of unlocking a secret/service menu, perhaps? Just a thought.


----------



## ProjectionHead

lattiboy said:


> Yeah…. So that sure seems like a lot of money to adjust white balance… and unless they have a hack it won’t do anything for DV mode. Very weird as they’re a pretty respectable outfit as far as I know.


Its actually a really low price compared to what someone domestically would charge from what I've been seeing. We're considering offering pre-calibration as a service as well for units that we sell since we have so many different screen surfaces and can emulate the customer's rooms lighting conditions.


----------



## mirkmito

GaeIta80 said:


> And just noticed now they are offering a professional calibration service for T1 Red issue & optimal PQ for €188 ONLY if you purchase from their CN stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fengmi Formovie Wemax XY Screen Home Theater Laser Projector
> 
> 
> We Nothingbutlabel is a certified global distributor for Fengmi Ultra Short Throw Home Theater Laser Projectors, XY PET CRYSTAL screen, Vividstorm floor rising screen. We also have brand like Fengmi, Formovie, Wemax, Appotronics 4k Max, 4k Pro, T1, Vogue, Dice, R1, R1 Nano, D30, A300.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nothingbutlabel.com


The T1 has only one user mode for changing parameters ... useless expense and above all you cannot change the DV settings ... Having only one setting you cannot manage hdr and sdr .... day or evening viewing ... .etc ...


----------



## SiUse

Ricoflashback said:


> You could try an in-wall center but I'm not sure if they make acoustic UST ALR screens. Perhaps an on-wall, horizontal center but then you need to route the speaker wire in the wall to hide it.


Vividstorm does have a acoustic transparent ALR screen 
Vividstorm acoustic transparent


----------



## lattiboy

ProjectionHead said:


> Its actually a really low price compared to what someone domestically would charge from what I've been seeing. We're considering offering pre-calibration as a service as well for units that we sell since we have so many different screen surfaces and can emulate the customer's rooms lighting conditions.


It is a very fair price for a calibration, but to the best of everybody’s knowledge the T1 only has one custom slot and no CMS system. It doesn’t even have RGB tint controls!

Unless they have some sort of service menu or other knowledge we don’t, you would essentially be paying for white balance calibration. And that would not even apply to the Dolby Vision content.


----------



## mirkmito

lattiboy said:


> It is a very fair price for a calibration, but to the best of everybody’s knowledge the T1 only has one custom slot and no CMS system. It doesn’t even have RGB tint controls!
> 
> Unless they have some sort of service menu or other knowledge we don’t, you would essentially be paying for white balance calibration. And that would not even apply to the Dolby Vision content.


Other than that, you can't independently manage HDR and SDR, day or night viewing ....
I wrote to him .... I'm waiting for an answer


----------



## Xspearo

lattiboy said:


> It is a very fair price for a calibration, but to the best of everybody’s knowledge the T1 only has one custom slot and no CMS system. It doesn’t even have RGB tint controls!
> 
> Unless they have some sort of service menu or other knowledge we don’t, you would essentially be paying for white balance calibration. And that would not even apply to the Dolby Vision content.


I really hope there will be an update to allow more customization of picture modes in the near future. I wonder why this wasn't implemented to begin with.


----------



## mirkmito

Xspearo said:


> I really hope there will be an update to allow more customization of picture modes in the near future. I wonder why this wasn't implemented to begin with.


Policy... User friendly!


----------



## Xspearo

mirkmito said:


> Policy... User friendly!


I mean it could still be user friendly. People can just change presets but not customize them and leave it for people that want to.


----------



## mirkmito

Xspearo said:


> I mean it could still be user friendly. People can just change presets but not customize them and leave it for people that want to.


Good question....


----------



## Xspearo

mirkmito said:


> Good question....


Yea, that is what most companies do. You have presets that people can choose from, but also have it so people can adjust certain settings in those presets if they want.


----------



## Brajesh

Is anyone able to test HDR10+? I've been unsuccessful so far using Zidoo Z9X & sample clips playing off a USB stick connected directly to the T1. The HDR10+ library has been growing more so lately, both UHD discs as well as streaming (namely Amazon Prime).



Xspearo said:


> I just to know if you can answer a question for me. If you can please let me know how long it takes to power on from when you hit power button on remote?


Hope @Xspearo doesn't mind my answering his PM here on this one, it's 27 seconds for me from remote power button press until T1 displays my source device's picture.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

So guessing based on my testing today the projector is limited to 59.9fps for HDR + Dolby Vision?
Tried multiple cables today and even bypassed my AVR incase it was the culprit.

Almost positive with my old TV I had 4K60 for HDR + DV but my Shield will only let me set 4K60 with HDR, I have to set 4K59 to get HDR + DV.
I am not sure how much that fraction of a frame makes a difference in real life performance, but just seems odd.

As far as experience so far, I am very happy with it especially for the price paid. I feel its less buggy and higher performing than the Vava Chroma that I was getting.
I have everything working on it as I wanted.

I could not get PERFECT focus similar to Brajesh, but I got it pretty good and I cant notice any issues when watching content. I also still need to perfectly level my screen and perhaps my screen is not a perfect 90 from the wall.

I dont think its insanely bright even with a .8 gain ALR screen it seems just right but I expected to be blow away by it.
Good enough for day viewing sure, but even with an ALR screen and a pretty dim room I can tell its not a TV its a projector and it does wash out some.

I also had a insanly bright TV before this, so I guess just some difference in expectations. 

I do wish we could bump up the brightness a bit on HDR / DV content some of the scenes can be dark, but the colors are perfect. I have not even really noticed any real issue with reds. I say it may look BETTER than my TV in some cases. Also while I have been working on a collection of 4K content, 1080P still looks amazing even at 115".

I am a happy camper, maybe cutting hairs between this and the C2 and I am sure some other products will be around soon that may be technically better, but this will easily hold me over with no buyers remorse for a few years.


----------



## Xspearo

Brajesh said:


> Is anyone able to test HDR10+? I've been unsuccessful so far using Zidoo Z9X & sample clips playing off a USB stick connected directly to the T1. The HDR10+ library has been growing more so lately, both UHD discs as well as streaming (namely Amazon Prime).
> 
> 
> Hope @Xspearo doesn't mind my answering his PM here on this one, it's 27 seconds for me from remote power button press until T1 displays my source device's picture.



Thank you for answering. Hopefully the picture blows me away, because as of now between the delay of start, no customization of picture modes, and not being able to power on and off with other remotes may kill this for me. The PX1-Pro checks all those boxes and more for me.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Xspearo said:


> Thank you for answering. Hopefully the picture blows me away, because as of now between the delay of start, no customization of picture modes, and not being able to power on and off with other remotes may kill this for me. The PX1-Pro checks all those boxes and more for me.


There is a remote on kickstarter that supports bluetooth I think that may work as a true universal remote.
Also technically with automation like I have I could use a hue dimmer switch as a remote for it lol.

But the BT remote thing is becoming more and more common, not really a fault of the unit.
Though I would think adding IR for compatibility would be a cheap and easy thing to do.

Since it has the Auto On feature turning on your source should turn it on, and it goes to sleep when those devices go off. I think you will find a way to make it work for you.

The auto-on feature can be disabled, but funny enough I have not found a way to turn off auto-off, and I actually would like too.


----------



## Brajesh

Was able to power on & off my VAVA Chroma when I had it with Harmony in conjunction w/HDMI CEC, but haven't tried w/T1 yet. Think this is a solvable challenge between all of us here. The ADB stuff earlier is a bit over my head .

And @ViciousXUSMC, think your assessment of T1 matches mine, including about Chroma. I've been considering a .8 gain XY 150" ALR screen, but worry about losing brightness vs. my current 1.1 gain white screen. Realize contrast & blacks would be even better, but it already looks quite excellent.


----------



## 3sprit

mirkmito said:


> A quale costo...??
> Sicuro ce da scordarsi il prezzo di 2300€
> 
> Un esempio è il vava chroma...quasi raddoppiato il prezzo da quando è iniziata la distribuzione internazionale 😉
> 
> Bisogna poi vedere chi è il fornitore qui in italia...
> Perche di sicuro in caso di problemi lo spedisco sempre in cina...


The seller is responsible for the warranty, not the manufacturer.
The problem of where and how to get a product repaired under warranty lies with the seller and you have no cost.
If you buy from China, however, all shipping costs from Europe to China and from China to Europe are at your expense and there is also the risk of having to pay taxes and customs again ...


----------



## 3sprit

SiUse said:


> Vividstorm does have a acoustic transparent ALR screen
> Vividstorm acoustic transparent


It has only a few centimeters of micro-perforation at the bottom: it is completely useless


----------



## Xspearo

ViciousXUSMC said:


> There is a remote on kickstarter that supports bluetooth I think that may work as a true universal remote.
> Also technically with automation like I have I could use a hue dimmer switch as a remote for it lol.
> 
> But the BT remote thing is becoming more and more common, not really a fault of the unit.
> Though I would think adding IR for compatibility would be a cheap and easy thing to do.
> 
> Since it has the Auto On feature turning on your source should turn it on, and it goes to sleep when those devices go off. I think you will find a way to make it work for you.
> 
> The auto-on feature can be disabled, but funny enough I have not found a way to turn off auto-off, and I actually would like too.


Yea we will see. It should be here nxt Tuesday and I will mess around with it and give a solid try for a couple weeks.


----------



## humax

ViciousXUSMC said:


> I dont think its insanely bright even with a .8 gain ALR screen it seems just right but I expected to be blow away by it.
> Good enough for day viewing sure, but even with an ALR screen and a pretty dim room I can tell its not a TV its a projector and it does wash out some.
> 
> I also had a insanly bright TV before this, so I guess just some difference in expectations.


You will need something like the 400nit Wemax D30 in order to get close to flat panel brightness levels, but then of course contrast drops to 1500:1 and dark scenes will suffer.

Appotronics Wemax D30 with VividStorm S PRO 120", Playing YouTube - YouTube


----------



## Ricoflashback

ViciousXUSMC said:


> So guessing based on my testing today the projector is limited to 59.9fps for HDR + Dolby Vision?
> Tried multiple cables today and even bypassed my AVR incase it was the culprit.
> 
> Almost positive with my old TV I had 4K60 for HDR + DV but my Shield will only let me set 4K60 with HDR, I have to set 4K59 to get HDR + DV.
> I am not sure how much that fraction of a frame makes a difference in real life performance, but just seems odd.
> 
> As far as experience so far, I am very happy with it especially for the price paid. I feel its less buggy and higher performing than the Vava Chroma that I was getting.
> I have everything working on it as I wanted.
> 
> I could not get PERFECT focus similar to Brajesh, but I got it pretty good and I cant notice any issues when watching content. I also still need to perfectly level my screen and perhaps my screen is not a perfect 90 from the wall.
> 
> I dont think its insanely bright even with a .8 gain ALR screen it seems just right but I expected to be blow away by it.
> Good enough for day viewing sure, but even with an ALR screen and a pretty dim room I can tell its not a TV its a projector and it does wash out some.
> 
> I also had a insanly bright TV before this, so I guess just some difference in expectations.
> 
> I do wish we could bump up the brightness a bit on HDR / DV content some of the scenes can be dark, but the colors are perfect. I have not even really noticed any real issue with reds. I say it may look BETTER than my TV in some cases. Also while I have been working on a collection of 4K content, 1080P still looks amazing even at 115".
> 
> I am a happy camper, maybe cutting hairs between this and the C2 and I am sure some other products will be around soon that may be technically better, but this will easily hold me over with no buyers remorse for a few years.


I find a projector much easier on my eyes than any TV. I can watch all night without any eye fatigue. I find my bright, Sony 900F LCD a little harsh these days. Must be my older eyes. I’ve never been an all out ”nits” guy. I’ll take great colors with pop, superb shadow detail and a good black floor any day. If you really want to blast you’re eyeballs out - try the Sony A90J. At 1,300 peak nits, you might need sunglasses. Or, at least some sunscreen.


----------



## aerodynamics

mirkmito said:


> Policy... User friendly!


Not sure that's the reason lol. Every other display (TV, monitors, etc) have had a CMS for decades. I think the reason is they don't know how to implement it properly. When I change some of the settings on my Chiq B5U from 0-100, it does nothing.


----------



## Brajesh

Brajesh said:


> Is anyone able to test HDR10+? I've been unsuccessful so far using Zidoo Z9X & sample clips playing off a USB stick connected directly to the T1. The HDR10+ library has been growing more so lately, both UHD discs as well as streaming (namely Amazon Prime).


Maybe I'm the only one who cares about HDR10+ . Did further testing with Fire TV Stick 4K Max with Prime HDR10+ content (latest season of 'The Expanse' & 'Being the Ricardos') & using the Jellyfin app that someone suggested in the media streamers section (using samples & movies like 'Inglourious Basterds' UHD rip on my NAS). Don't think T1 supports HDR10+ as advertised, only DV.


----------



## ngcoolman

Brajesh said:


> Maybe I'm the only one who cares about HDR10+ . Did further testing with Fire TV Stick 4K Max with Prime HDR10+ content (latest season of 'The Expanse' & 'Being the Ricardos') & using the Jellyfin app that someone suggested in the media streamers section (using samples & movies like 'Inglourious Basterds' UHD rip on my NAS). Don't think T1 supports HDR10+ as advertised, only DV.


This is very unfortunate because it was advertised to supports all 3 major hdr standards. From the bright side, that means there is a higher chance they will release a new firmware to add hdr10+ support and fix the dv red tint issue as well.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

I have not seen HDR10+ yet but also not sure I have any HDR10+ content.
Being that they have DV we know the projector can support the dynamic metadata and such, DV is pretty much the "brand name" HDR10+
and HDR10+ is open source and free to use, so maybe just a firmware update away.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Brajesh said:


> Was able to power on & off my VAVA Chroma when I had it with Harmony in conjunction w/HDMI CEC, but haven't tried w/T1 yet. Think this is a solvable challenge between all of us here. The ADB stuff earlier is a bit over my head .
> 
> And @ViciousXUSMC, think your assessment of T1 matches mine, including about Chroma. I've been considering a .8 gain XY 150" ALR screen, but worry about losing brightness vs. my current 1.1 gain white screen. Realize contrast & blacks would be even better, but it already looks quite excellent.


That’s an interesting observation. I suspect that if you have a smaller screen size - 120” or under, a .6 gain ALR screen would be fine. I’m not sure of the lumen loss the farther back the projector and the larger the screen size.


----------



## GaeIta80

Brajesh said:


> Maybe I'm the only one who cares about HDR10+ . Did further testing with Fire TV Stick 4K Max with Prime HDR10+ content (latest season of 'The Expanse' & 'Being the Ricardos') & using the Jellyfin app that someone suggested in the media streamers section (using samples & movies like 'Inglourious Basterds' UHD rip on my NAS). Don't think T1 supports HDR10+ as advertised, only DV.


Planning to use the Firestick 4k Max as main OS as well...how does it behave in terms of DV/DA with Netflix, Prime, Disney, Apple+?


----------



## loco_motion

loco_motion said:


> I just recieved my T1 yesterday and was playing a video by plugging in an SSD drive directly to the USB port. During play back I get occasional horizontal white lines. Attached is a screen grab from a video I took. I also get this with my Nvidia shield plugged in via HDMI. The settings are factory default. Is this common and is there a way to fix it?
> View attachment 3227717
> Did I get a lemon and need to get my unit exchanged?


FYI, just thought I would share what happened with my unit. The first issue was occasional horizontal lines flashing on the image. I took my unit to the shop for further testing and it encountered issues whilst playing files directly from a USB flash drive. Even the main menu images looked blurry and like double vision. After around 30 seconds the unit returned to normal by itself. I have attached a picture for your reference. The shop believes that the built in video player is not meant to play certain formats and can cause the projector the "glitch". In any case, the shop took care of it and exchange that unit for me. So far the other one seems fine. Anyone else have this happen before on the T1 or another UST?


----------



## mirkmito

Does MEMC work with Dolby Vision on T1, like on Xiaomi Laser Cinema 2?


----------



## doveph7

Hi. I ordered from WuPro, they tested it and installed Aptoide TV.
I've not used this alternate store before but it seems it should allow installing Netflix, Youtube, Kodi etc.
Any feedback on this ? Or should I use a Firestick instead ?


----------



## GaeIta80

doveph7 said:


> Hi. I ordered from WuPro, they tested it and installed Aptoide TV.
> I've not used this alternate store before but it seems it should allow installing Netflix, Youtube, Kodi etc.
> Any feedback on this ? Or should I use a Firestick instead ?


Aptoide TV has no Netflix 4k working...you will still need a stick I am afraid


----------



## teros

Sunbox2408 said:


> Hey mate, I was in the exact same delimma, and then pulled the trigger with nothing but label only because they have a local office in Australia (North sydney). Their price was aud $2999 + $450 shipping from China warehouse which is comparable to Jason's price (circa $50 dearer) but counting on local after sales atm however do not know how will it turn out. I found their website a bit misleading as it says free shipping and even the order goes through without shipping cost. They send a separate payment link for the shipping fees. Ordered 2 days ago, dun have the shipping details so far however Eric has said that the shipment has been handed over to the shipping forwarder.



Umm interesting I asked him about shipping from China and got told I would have to go to the shipped from aus at 4k. Was looking at a projector screen as well and total came to $5800 aud shipped... will keep it in mind thanks dude


----------



## Brajesh

GaeIta80 said:


> Planning to use the Firestick 4k Max as main OS as well...how does it behave in terms of DV/DA with Netflix, Prime, Disney, Apple+?


My main media OS's are Shield TV & Zidoo Z9X. Prime DV/DA worked fine w/both Shield & Fire Stick Max. Only other sub I have is Disney+, and DV/DA also fine when I played via Shield (didn't try Fire Stick). The recent Marvel IMAX Enhanced DV titles look particularly good.

For those of you who use UHD's more like me, one DV title that look absolutely stunning is 'Awaken'. It also serves as a good test disc for colors, flesh tones, etc.


----------



## ufokillerz

Brajesh said:


> My main media OS's are Shield TV & Zidoo Z9X. Prime DV/DA worked fine w/both Shield & Fire Stick Max. Only other sub I have is Disney+, and DV/DA also fine when I played via Shield (didn't try Fire Stick). The recent Marvel IMAX Enhanced DV titles look particularly good.
> 
> For those of you who use UHD's more like me, one DV title that look absolutely stunning is 'Awaken'. It also serves as a good test disc for colors, flesh tones, etc.


Have you tried eternals with the T1? I watched it with using Shield Tv to Arcana to Vava, and it seemed very lacking, but have also read that its just a dark movie.


----------



## eezrider

Brajesh said:


> My main media OS's are Shield TV & Zidoo Z9X. Prime DV/DA worked fine w/both Shield & Fire Stick Max. Only other sub I have is Disney+, and DV/DA also fine when I played via Shield (didn't try Fire Stick). The recent Marvel IMAX Enhanced DV titles look particularly good.
> 
> For those of you who use UHD's more like me, one DV title that look absolutely stunning is 'Awaken'. It also serves as a good test disc for colors, flesh tones, etc.


Hi @Brajesh, I assume you're using the T1 native here, not with HDFury? So you are not seeing a red push on DV content? Is it content specific, I thought you had seen the red tint on the glass blower test clip?

You also mention Z9X but don't appear to comment on its use. Is it the same as Shield?

I should get mine today! I'm using an Xbox One X for media and disc's. Anyone tried that yet?


----------



## Casey_Bryson

ufokillerz said:


> Have you tried eternals with the T1? I watched it with using Shield Tv to Arcana to Vava, and it seemed very lacking, but have also read that its just a dark movie.


Horrible HDR grading on Eternals, even with MadVR. They screwed up big time.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

It seems to me so far most if not all content that we are calling "bad" is just bad content not really fault of the T1.
The glass blowing video is the one video I see referenced often that people are saying looks different on the T1 than it would on another device.

But until I can see it on more than one device myself to confirm, I cant actually say its not bad content as well.

I know for a fact HDR/DV shifts to a warmer color space, this is evident when white subtitles become more orange.
But this seems to be the case in all devices I have tried. I can see how with an already very warm/red scene it could result in over the top output.

But I have to say so far, all the HDR DV content I have tried looks really good and "as the director intended"


----------



## Ricoflashback

Confirmed that the Nothingbutlabel "Calibration" does nothing to Dolby Vision. Not that it would anyway as that is in the internal tone mapping of the T1 projector itself. From early reports, Epson has stepped up their game with "Scene Adaptive Gamma" with their laser 12000. I'd like to see the Chinese improve their DV implementation and even develop a cost effect processor alternative to Lumagen and MadVR Labs. It's obvious that American companies are twiddling their thumbs on any development or innovation in this area. Thus, we all have to rely on the projector manufacturer for their "Dynamic Tone Mapping" solution for HDR & especially DV content. (Sorry to steal a JVC term.)


----------



## lattiboy

ViciousXUSMC said:


> It seems to me so far most if not all content that we are calling "bad" is just bad content not really fault of the T1.
> The glass blowing video is the one video I see referenced often that people are saying looks different on the T1 than it would on another device.
> 
> But until I can see it on more than one device myself to confirm, I cant actually say its not bad content as well.
> 
> I know for a fact HDR/DV shifts to a warmer color space, this is evident when white subtitles become more orange.
> But this seems to be the case in all devices I have tried. I can see how with an already very warm/red scene it could result in over the top output.
> 
> But I have to say so far, all the HDR DV content I have tried looks really good and "as the director intended"


I agree with you with the exception of light skin faces having weird red splotches randomly. A good example is the Witcher on Netflix. The young blonde woman is porcelain white, but in some scenes she looks like she is wearing a ridiculous amount of blush. The season finale had a few obvious examples of this. 

It is pretty minor in the grand scheme of things, but it can be distracting. Especially as almost every other aspect of DV looks very good to my eye. Getting used to the warmer colors takes a bit of time, but once you do it’s really nice and possibly better for evening viewing as you’re getting less blue light before bed. Like iPhone night mode.


----------



## CabbageMan

Can anyone with a T1 measure the distance from the front of the projector to the laser? If I get one I think I may buy this stand to go with it but obviously want to make sure the laser has room to get over the upper shelf.

space between shelves is 5.1" and T1 is 4.2"(according to specs) so that would leave less than an inch gap.
Bottom shelf is 18.75" and top shelf is 15.75 inches leaving 3 inches of space. is that enough?

https://www.wayfair.com/furniture/pdp/wrought-studio-gilmore-tv-stand-for-tvs-up-to-65-w002489890.html?piid%5B0%5D=289317929


----------



## Brajesh

Front of the projector to laser is 11 inches.


----------



## CabbageMan

Brajesh said:


> Front of the projector to laser is 11 inches.


My bad I guess I meant the back of projector. The side that is closer to the laser lol. Would that make it about 2.5 inches? Want to make sure the laser wouldn't be under the top shelf and would have full clearance. Thanks!


----------



## Brajesh

Yep, between 2.5 to 3".


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

CabbageMan said:


> My bad I guess I meant the back of projector. The side that is closer to the laser lol. Would that make it about 2.5 inches? Want to make sure the laser wouldn't be under the top shelf and would have full clearance. Thanks!


If its going to be in a cabinet and you plan to just have the laser portion sticking out, keep in mind this thing vents side to side and would need adequate airflow.


----------



## CabbageMan

ViciousXUSMC said:


> If its going to be in a cabinet and you plan to just have the laser portion sticking out, keep in mind this thing vents side to side and would need adequate airflow.


I linked the stand above. The shelf its on is completely open just the top shelf is smaller. I am trying to figure out if that 3 inches is enough space so that the laser wouldn't be blocked by the top shelf.


----------



## spocky12

Xspearo said:


> Wow, well that's a little unfortunate. I wonder why it would be an issue if it's the same product with same internals. I'm sure there will be a way or someone figure out a work around. Just unfortunate they wouldn't allow it or support it.


Until now all global models came out 9 to 12 months after their Chinese equivalent. They usually were a bit more expensive (due to DRM licensing I suppose), but as Casey noted, their SOC were all different, a bit lower end, so it could be considered as a downgrade. Because of this, the firmwares were not compatible. 

I don't know if the reason of this downgrade was only to maintain a lower price even with added taxes, or if they also wanted to keep a clear distinction between both markets. I don't know mediatek SOCs enough to guess if they will do the same on these models. Of course, even with the full global firmware in our hands (which might never happen), trying to flash it might lead to a brick, and that would be a quite expensive brick...

Regarding the multiple custom profiles, they didn't care developing this feature in 3 generations of UST, so that's probably not a priority for them. Not a technical limitation, as I could implement it on ProjecTivy tools for their earlier models. That's a shame because it would not take that long to add and it would just remove a bad comparison point with competitors. 
If they don't want to develop this feature, they could at least open their display lib, as it was on Android 6 (well, to be honest, they didn't chose to open it, that was just a lack of security on this os, that allowed broader system access). This would allow third party developers to add it and would be a win win situation : they don't pay to develop and maintain code for this feature, but allow enthusiasts to do it anyway by just installing an app. I keep fingers crossed it is possible on this generation.

As for cec auto boot, it seems to work fine on the Fengmi 4k pro now. Unfortunately, I can't really use it because I sometimes cast music to my Nvidia shield. This automatically powers on the projector which is not what I want. 
Cec auto off feature is not directly available on the projector settings (at least on my 4k pro). It is however available in a hidden additional parameters app, that can be accessed with projectivy tools. I suspect this is an amlogic app, so this would probably not be installed on the t1 (maybe there's a similar app?).


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

CabbageMan said:


> I linked the stand above. The shelf its on is completely open just the top shelf is smaller. I am trying to figure out if that 3 inches is enough space so that the laser wouldn't be blocked by the top shelf.


I am going to say most probably it would, just based on me not even able to put my center speaker above and behind the projector. It's not just about the laser not being covered its the throw angle of the laser. The cutout for the laser is almost exactly the path the laser follows so as you get closer to the laser source there is not even an inch clearance and not block the laser, you would need to be about another 3 inches past the cutout before you get about 2 inches clearance enough to comfortable fit a 1" thick shelf.

so that assumes your shelf is right ontop of the projector, any height difference and you would need even more space.

It is a UST but it still has a fairly shallow throw angle, would be a good thing to get a protractor and see exactly what that is, and then you could calculate distance and clearance.


----------



## CabbageMan

ViciousXUSMC said:


> I am going to say most probably it would, just based on me not even able to put my center speaker above and behind the projector. It's not just about the laser not being covered its the throw angle of the laser. The cutout for the laser is almost exactly the path the laser follows so as you get closer to the laser source there is not even an inch clearance and not block the laser, you would need to be about another 3 inches past the cutout before you get about 2 inches clearance enough to comfortable fit a 1" thick shelf.
> 
> so that assumes your shelf is right ontop of the projector, any height difference and you would need even more space.


Damn okay. thanks for weighing in on that.


----------



## Brajesh

@spocky12, love ProjecTivy tools, but in my case, with A300, installing Google Play Services caused unwanted problems like I mentioned in the XDA thread (_Google Play Services has stopped & Android TV widget has stopped errors_ everytime I powered on). So, ended up restoring A300 to factory settings. If you do plan to support T1 w/ProjecTivy tools, hope it can be done w/o root and w/o Google Play Services to get multiple display profiles.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Brajesh said:


> @spocky12, love ProjecTivy tools, but in my case, with A300, installing Google Play Services caused unwanted problems like I mentioned in the XDA thread (_Google Play Services has stopped & Android TV widget has stopped errors_ everytime I powered on). So, ended up restoring A300 to factory settings. If you do plan to support T1 w/ProjecTivy tools, hope it can be done w/o root and w/o Google Play Services to get multiple display profiles.


99% of users won’t mess around with ProjecTivy tools or anything like it due to lack of expertise, interest or not wanting to brick their projector. All folks are looking for is a CMS or the ability to have more control over their picture quality. Personally, I‘d like to see a reasonably priced processor for tone management that is upgradable like the madVR Envy Pro to handle profiles and customization. While I do stream with local apps on our bedroom Sony A9S OLED, that’s due to Sony’s superb processing and convenience. I don’t use my projector’s native apps because they are no where near as good as my Nvidia Shield Pro in terms of speed and AI image enhancement. I don’t expect any projector manufacturer to keep up with the functionality and processing power of a separate streamer.


----------



## eezrider

Just received mine. Both a label on the box and the entry in the instructions (in Chinese) clearly indicate the projector is 220-240V. This has been mentioned before I think, but am I right to assume this is a mistake and that the projector is in fact 110-240V? @Brajesh, you received yours from the same batch from Chris Chen, I believe. Is your box labelled the same way? The label also lists 50-60Hz, which is consistent with it being multi-voltage. Don't want to plug it in until I'm sure!


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

eezrider said:


> Just received mine. Both a label on the box and the entry in the instructions (in Chinese) clearly indicate the projector is 220-240V. This has been mentioned before I think, but am I right to assume this is a mistake and that the projector is in fact 110-240V? @Brajesh, you received yours from the same batch from Chris Chen, I believe. Is your box labelled the same way? The label also lists 50-60Hz, which is consistent with it being multi-voltage. Don't want to plug it in until I'm sure!


It will work with 110v no worries.


----------



## spocky12

Well, there's a big issue on my side I've never been able to adress : my xda thread is a mix of :

information about UST devices
firmwares
recoveries
root methods (for Android 6)
tricks to install Google play services (needs root)
ProjecTivy tools

All these things are mostly independent and in the end you can use the tools without root, or root without installing the play services.

On the early days, most features of ProjecTivy required root and there was a big hope with the installation of the play services, so most people went to the full experience (recovery + root + play services + projectivy tools). I've seen a few people reporting an issue with play services but unfortunately I couldn't reproduce it on my devices.

The fact is that even with play services, the lack of DRM on these chinese devices will force you to have an external player (as long as you need video streaming, which I assume is the vast majority of us). 
This, plus the fact that Android 9 devices can't be rooted makes this full experience less and less desirable.
It's been more that 1 year that ProjecTivy's most interesting features can work without root, such as:

replacing the Chinese launcher
booting to an app or HDMI input
managing advanced display profiles with calibration patterns
lowering input lag
decreasing high pitch noise thanks to the access to a third hidden view mode

The only thing that could make you want to install the play services is to pay the premium version in order to get multiple display profiles management. This is something I definitely need to address because in the end, very few people want to root + install play services, so it leads to :

a low income on my side
few people getting access to a nice feature I've been developing for months
frustrated people because they can't pay even if they wanted to
That's the next big thing on my to-do list.

Anyway, the play services and root issue is a thing of the past on recent devices (as it can't be done), and I've focused on adding features that don't need root, and more generally for every Android tv device. Either to improve the tv experience, or to add missing functionality on some manufacturers OS.
The upcoming release will be a full featured launcher replacement, that will hopefully even please the Google tv / Nvidia shield users that consider the home screen as a big ad.

Getting back to the T1 (sorry for the off topic), I will nevertheless still add everything I can to make our UST devices more useful. As such, if there's a way to enable hidden features or get more fine-grained control over the display settings, you can be sure it'll be added (I really hate when a great hardware suffers from software limitations).
There will be no risk of brick on users side (no root, no tricky thing to do). Just install the app and use it (as a launcher replacement, or only for some of its features such as getting access to the engineering menu). Or not


----------



## Brajesh

@eezrider, yes plug it in. No worries on 110v.

Feels like we need a settings & tips/tricks area. Instead of creating a new thread, @jakechoy, I'm wondering if we can help you populate post #1 w/helpful info collected from within this thread & elsewhere?


----------



## lattiboy

Been meaning to do this! Toggled my display type in Roku Ultra between DV and regular HDR and loaded up the Witcher season 2 episode 8. DV looks *wildly* better in every show I’ve tested it. View mode brightness for both, bright mode DV, custom settings for HDR pretty close to standard image mode:

HDR:









DV:










BUT! In certain scenes this red push comes in and is a bit distracting. Still, I’ll take the DV over the HDR even with red push.

HDR:









DV









This is a close up crop shot to show the effect:

HDR









DV


----------



## lattiboy

I would love it if someone else would replicate this DV vs Non DV on another device like the shield or AppleTV 4K or whatever. I would like to know how much of this is dependent on your streamer and source.


----------



## Brajesh

Had posted a with & w/o HDFury comparison here earlier, specifically using the DV Glass Blowing clip, but my test had a setup flaw. Will redo.


----------



## jakechoy

Brajesh said:


> @eezrider, yes plug it in. No worries on 110v.
> 
> Feels like we need a settings & tips/tricks area. Instead of creating a new thread, @jakechoy, I'm wondering if we can help you populate post #1 w/helpful info collected from within this thread & elsewhere?


Will do.


----------



## jakechoy

lattiboy said:


> Been meaning to do this! Toggled my display type in Roku Ultra between DV and regular HDR and loaded up the Witcher season 2 episode 8. DV looks *wildly* better in every show I’ve tested it. View mode brightness for both, bright mode DV, custom settings for HDR pretty close to standard image mode:
> 
> HDR:
> View attachment 3230712
> 
> 
> DV:
> 
> View attachment 3230711
> 
> 
> BUT! In certain scenes this red push comes in and is a bit distracting. Still, I’ll take the DV over the HDR even with red push.
> 
> HDR:
> View attachment 3230713
> 
> 
> DV
> View attachment 3230715
> 
> 
> This is a close up crop shot to show the effect:
> 
> HDR
> View attachment 3230718
> 
> 
> DV
> 
> View attachment 3230720


@lattiboy which episode and time market is the last scene? Will test it on other DV display devices to compare. thanks


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Brajesh said:


> I misspoke earlier... HDFury (in my case, a VRROOM unit) *does not fix* the red tint/push issue because it's still a DV (LLDV signal) to the T1. Don't think there's a way to disable DV or HDR on T1, and force HDR only or BT2020 SDR, is there? Here's a video with native DV, then with HDFury in the mix, and both look the same. Also tried with Shield TV Pro (not in the video) with the same results. The horizontal lines are only in the video, not in the actual display. At the end, I also show what options you have when playing DV content, including no MEMC setting option w/DV...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow, I'll post a video with the 'glass blowing' clip using Wemax A300 w/HDFury. Think it looks better, and is sharper overall vs. T1.


On the Shield I know DV can be turned off, but no way to turn off HDR that I found.
I tried to change to a display mode that did not have HDR on the shield and I got a black screen and had to wait for it to time out and return to my original setting.

I wished Plex had a force SDR conversion with tone mapping feature. It apparently has the feature when you have a SDR device, but it wont let you use it if it detects a HDR device.
For any movies that I feel are too dark I wanted to see if playing them in SDR corrected the issue.

Watched the 4K remaster of Star Wars tonight and it looked AMAZING, (no red issues) but some scenes especailly earlier on seemed a little on the dark side (no pun intended lol)


----------



## CabbageMan

Well I placed my order with Jason Li. Here’s to hoping for a speedy delivery!


----------



## lattiboy

jakechoy said:


> @lattiboy which episode and time market is the last scene? Will test it on other DV display devices to compare. thanks


i didn’t get time stamps, but it’s about twenty minutes from the end, after Geralt impales the monster and tosses it off the bridge.


----------



## Adamgoodapp

@lattiboy, DV looks like watching a live theatre play! Even do some times the actors look like they have a skin rash but compared to HDR, its way more vivid. HDR looks more cold in the scenes you showed.

My package finally is moving since yesterday so hopefully others who ordered from Chris Chen and got confirmation that their package was sent on the 18th should also be moving.


----------



## indieke2

CabbageMan said:


> Well I placed my order with Jason Li. Here’s to hoping for a speedy delivery!


I am confusing all these China companies, lol. I talked to a person from Quanzhou Ruichi Technology Co., Lt , called Clover Yuan, is that same company? I ordered my Fengmi C 2 there, which I sold again. I am in Thailand, bit slow, but good price.

And Chris Chen, which company is that? The person I talked to, has always good or best prices, but they ship to Thailand, by land. Always all included. Taxes and shipping.


----------



## Adamgoodapp

indieke2 said:


> I am confusing all these China companies, lol. I talked to a person from Quanzhou Ruichi Technology Co., Lt , called Clover Yuan, is that same company? I ordered my Fengmi C 2 there, which I sold again. I am in Thailand, bit slow, but good price.


This is the same company I ordered from just with an employee called Chris Chen.


----------



## ngcoolman

jakechoy said:


> @lattiboy which episode and time market is the last scene? Will test it on other DV display devices to compare. thanks


The time stamps are Witcher S2 E8 32:44, 32:09 and 33:15 respectively.


----------



## abaintor

Brajesh said:


> I misspoke earlier... HDFury (in my case, a VRROOM unit) *does not fix* the red tint/push issue because it's still a DV (LLDV signal) to the T1. Don't think there's a way to disable DV or HDR on T1, and force HDR only or BT2020 SDR, is there? Here's a video with native DV, then with HDFury in the mix, and both look the same. Also tried with Shield TV Pro (not in the video) with the same results. The horizontal lines are only in the video, not in the actual display. At the end, I also show what options you have when playing DV content, including no MEMC setting option w/DV...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow, I'll post a video with the 'glass blowing' clip using Wemax A300 w/HDFury. Think it looks better, and is sharper overall vs. T1.


I saw in the menus that you can select auto, dv to hdr,… 
And it mentions vs10 engine which is the same soc in the zidoo z9x or dunehd : It can convert from one mode to another (hdr, hdr10+, dv) according to your display capabilities. Here it is embedded in the display instead of the source but anyway you could select dv to hdr and insert hdfury that tricks and still sends lldv and you should recover all the picture tuning settings ?

Also I read somewhere that vs10 engine brings a less sharper picture on the zidoo than nvidia shield. To be confirmed


----------



## abaintor

Also has someone asked to fengmi support if they plan to fix the memc in dolby vision ?

Lack of 3D, no memc, red tint : there is definitely too many issues for me for the leap…
Too bad because your pictures and videos guys look gorgeous


----------



## GaeIta80

lattiboy said:


> Been meaning to do this! Toggled my display type in Roku Ultra between DV and regular HDR and loaded up the Witcher season 2 episode 8. DV looks *wildly* better in every show I’ve tested it. View mode brightness for both, bright mode DV, custom settings for HDR pretty close to standard image mode:
> 
> HDR:
> View attachment 3230712
> 
> 
> DV:
> 
> View attachment 3230711
> 
> 
> BUT! In certain scenes this red push comes in and is a bit distracting. Still, I’ll take the DV over the HDR even with red push.
> 
> HDR:
> View attachment 3230713
> 
> 
> DV
> View attachment 3230715
> 
> 
> This is a close up crop shot to show the effect:
> 
> HDR
> View attachment 3230718
> 
> 
> DV
> 
> View attachment 3230720


Thanks a lot, DV looks much brighter and richer...if you set up "View mode" and "Dark DV", does it still show those red push on the Witcher face?


----------



## GaeIta80

The beauty has landed, later will do some testing with my Firestick 4k Max and a white wall (until I understand best screen size and model)

Watch this space!


----------



## 3sprit

Nascondi l'etichetta con l'indirizzo… 😉


----------



## Brajesh

@abaintor, good catch, I made an error in the DV comparison video. Should have set Zidoo to LLDV and Player Led to allow HDFury to manage it and send as HDR to the T1. Will redo the test. So, should see red push/tint not be present when DV content is fed through HDFury.


----------



## GaeIta80

Ok it's very big, heavy  but got a little plug adapter problem: what adapter do I need for this?


----------



## mirkmito

GaeIta80 said:


> Ok it's very big, heavy  but got a little plug adapter problem: what adapter do I need for this?
> View attachment 3231006
> View attachment 3231004


This https://www.amazon.it/Skross-PP0444-Adattatore-Italiana-Universale/dp/B009GJ39CC


----------



## GaeIta80

mirkmito said:


> This https://www.amazon.it/Skross-PP0444-Adattatore-Italiana-Universale/dp/B009GJ39CC


Thanks 🙂


----------



## CabbageMan

indieke2 said:


> I am confusing all these China companies, lol. I talked to a person from Quanzhou Ruichi Technology Co., Lt , called Clover Yuan, is that same company? I ordered my Fengmi C 2 there, which I sold again. I am in Thailand, bit slow, but good price.
> 
> And Chris Chen, which company is that? The person I talked to, has always good or best prices, but they ship to Thailand, by land. Always all included. Taxes and shipping.


I ordered from Wupro Import & Export Co., Ltd. (as have a few others in this thread) with Jason Li.


----------



## SiUse

spocky12 said:


> Well, there's a big issue on my side I've never been able to adress : my xda thread is a mix of :
> 
> information about UST devices
> firmwares
> recoveries
> root methods (for Android 6)
> tricks to install Google play services (needs root)
> ProjecTivy tools
> 
> All these things are mostly independent and in the end you can use the tools without root, or root without installing the play services.
> 
> On the early days, most features of ProjecTivy required root and there was a big hope with the installation of the play services, so most people went to the full experience (recovery + root + play services + projectivy tools). I've seen a few people reporting an issue with play services but unfortunately I couldn't reproduce it on my devices.
> 
> The fact is that even with play services, the lack of DRM on these chinese devices will force you to have an external player (as long as you need video streaming, which I assume is the vast majority of us).
> This, plus the fact that Android 9 devices can't be rooted makes this full experience less and less desirable.
> It's been more that 1 year that ProjecTivy's most interesting features can work without root, such as:
> 
> replacing the Chinese launcher
> booting to an app or HDMI input
> managing advanced display profiles with calibration patterns
> lowering input lag
> decreasing high pitch noise thanks to the access to a third hidden view mode
> 
> The only thing that could make you want to install the play services is to pay the premium version in order to get multiple display profiles management. This is something I definitely need to address because in the end, very few people want to root + install play services, so it leads to :
> 
> a low income on my side
> few people getting access to a nice feature I've been developing for months
> frustrated people because they can't pay even if they wanted to
> That's the next big thing on my to-do list.
> 
> Anyway, the play services and root issue is a thing of the past on recent devices (as it can't be done), and I've focused on adding features that don't need root, and more generally for every Android tv device. Either to improve the tv experience, or to add missing functionality on some manufacturers OS.
> The upcoming release will be a full featured launcher replacement, that will hopefully even please the Google tv / Nvidia shield users that consider the home screen as a big ad.
> 
> Getting back to the T1 (sorry for the off topic), I will nevertheless still add everything I can to make our UST devices more useful. As such, if there's a way to enable hidden features or get more fine-grained control over the display settings, you can be sure it'll be added (I really hate when a great hardware suffers from software limitations).
> There will be no risk of brick on users side (no root, no tricky thing to do). Just install the app and use it (as a launcher replacement, or only for some of its features such as getting access to the engineering menu). Or not


Just wanted to say thank you for your ongoing work in these regards!


----------



## 3sprit

GaeIta80 said:


> Ok it's very big, heavy  but got a little plug adapter problem: what adapter do I need for this?


Don't use adapters - buy a new cable.


Amazon.it : cavo c5 spina italiana





Amazon.it : cavo c5 shuko


----------



## mayaCH

GaeIta80 said:


> Ok it's very big, heavy  but got a little plug adapter problem: what adapter do I need for this?


I guess it would be cleaner, if you use a C5 to Type L cable









@3sprit più velocemente


----------



## 3sprit

First "opinions" of Grégory… 😒


----------



## CabbageMan

3sprit said:


> First "opinions" of Grégory… 😒


Did I miss something? What did he say?


----------



## mayaCH

mean this? Fengmi Formovie T1 : un projecteur triple laser ultra courte focale avec support Dolby Vision. – – Le Blog de PHC –


----------



## Ricoflashback

GaeIta80 said:


> Ok it's very big, heavy  but got a little plug adapter problem: what adapter do I need for this?
> View attachment 3231006
> View attachment 3231004





GaeIta80 said:


> Ok it's very big, heavy  but got a little plug adapter problem: what adapter do I need for this?
> View attachment 3231006
> View attachment 3231004


What voltage does Italy have? 220? No 120 V adapter for the USA?


----------



## mirkmito

3sprit said:


> First "opinions" of Grégory… 😒


----------



## Tanizhq

mirkmito said:


> View attachment 3231037


I mean he is comparing it to 2 projectors which are over 2x the price


----------



## mirkmito

Tanizhq said:


> Voglio dire, lo sta confrontando con 2 proiettori che sono oltre il doppio del prezzo



Perché sono prodotti venduti in tutto il mondo (garanzia, assistenza...) e di conseguenza il prezzo è più alto



Leggi gli ultimi commenti di Greg su T1 vs C2 in DV - Fengmi Formovie T1 : un proiettore triplo laser ultra corte focale con supporto Dolby Vision. – – Le Blog di PHC –


----------



## mayaCH

Tanizhq said:


> I mean he is comparing it to 2 projectors which are over 2x the price


indeed, but we want cheaper but better than those 
would like to see Rec.2020 measure of Vava Chroma and comparable in price


----------



## Casey_Bryson

mirkmito said:


> View attachment 3231037



It comes up short on green/cyan for only 89.6% BT2020 coverage. The Sammy and Hisense are over 100% coverage.


----------



## Tanizhq

Am I the only one who thinks the T1 Dolby Vision looks way better than the C2? The red skintone issue is there, but they are working on a fix. The colours look way more full on the T1


----------



## GaeIta80

Ok guys so I just lighted up on my uneven white wall and...surprise: projecTivy launcher loaded 🙃
Unfortunately had to use a quite heavy keystone correction (no much room of moving the coffee table around) but final result looks nice 
Will try to mount the 4K Max stick and test some content via Netflix, Prime, Disney +

Stay tuned!


----------



## Ricoflashback

GaeIta80 said:


> Ok guys so I just lighted up on my uneven white wall and...surprise: projecTivy launcher loaded 🙃
> Unfortunately had to use a quite heavy keystone correction (no much room of moving the coffee table around) but final result looks nice
> Will try to mount the 4K Max stick and test some content via Netflix, Prime, Disney +
> 
> Stay tuned!
> 
> View attachment 3231050
> 
> View attachment 3231045


Is your ceiling height low? I would think on a plain white wall that you wouldn't have any problems having a perfectly aligned picture without any keystone adjustments. Lots of pop to the first picture!


----------



## Brajesh

Tanizhq said:


> Am I the only one who thinks the T1 Dolby Vision looks way better than the C2? The red skintone issue is there, but they are working on a fix. The colours look way more full on the T1


Also, shadow detail looks better on T1 judging by that comparison screenshot. But, red push on T1 is a negative overall. To me so far, this (which hopefully Fengmi can address via firmware) & not as optimal focus, especially towards the top half of the picture (likely not correctable via firmware) are T1's biggest issues.

@mayaCH, there is no MEMC option when playing DV. Initially thought there was, but here are only options available:


----------



## mirkmito

Brajesh said:


> Also, shadow detail looks better on T1 judging by that comparison screenshot. But, red push on T1 is a negative overall. To me so far, this (which hopefully Fengmi can address via firmware) & not as optimal focus, especially towards the top half of the picture (likely not correctable via firmware) are T1's biggest issues.
> 
> @mayaCH, there is no MEMC option when playing DV. Initially thought there was, but here are only options available:
> View attachment 3231054


In advanced?


----------



## Brajesh

No, only DV dark vs. bright option there:


----------



## mirkmito

Brajesh said:


> No, only DV dark vs. bright option there:
> View attachment 3231071


We hope the FW is updated, both MEMC and DV management (like xiaomi laser C2)


----------



## Brajesh

Guys, stumbled upon another source for good DV samples here besides the Glass Blowing ones. Didn't realize DV could be applied to 1080p as well.


----------



## abaintor

At this state Gregory said that :

There is some speckle on bright pictures (warner logo from dune)
The red tint is not an issue and can be removed by lowering the laser power and set a DV mode (bright or dark)
The BT2020 colorspace is covered at 89%, which is better than mono lasers (including the C2) but less than the other tri-lasers
It is not a show stopper for me, especially if nobody here was bothered by the speckle, but I wait a status on MEMC in dolby vision. If confirmed and not fixable I'll wait for another model


----------



## ufokillerz

can't wait until DHL actually received possession of my T1, ordered 1/10. DHL still doesn't have it, its 1/28 now.


----------



## mayaCH

Ricoflashback said:


> What voltage does Italy have? 220? No 120 V adapter for the USA?


Italy has 230V (220-240V). please don't take my word, but i read a few pages back, you can just use it on your 110/120V grid too. you would better ask fengmi support.
i for my self would try it, thinking 110V is less, so it won't work but won't break. but i am not a electronics guy. i would never put a pure 110V device into a 230v power 😅


----------



## Ricoflashback

abaintor said:


> At this state Gregory said that :
> 
> There is some speckle on bright pictures (warner logo from dune)
> The red tint is not an issue and can be removed by lowering the laser power and set a DV mode (bright or dark)
> The BT2020 colorspace is covered at 89%, which is better than mono lasers (including the C2) but less than the other tri-lasers
> It is not a show stopper for me, especially if nobody here was bothered by the speckle, but I wait a status on MEMC in dolby vision. If confirmed and not fixable I'll wait for another model


I'm not at all concerned about the BT2020 color space. How are the black levels? Is the gas and mist of the other projectors (Hisense and Sammy) gone? Also - - laser speckle can be affected by your screen. What are you using? Thanks.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

abaintor said:


> At this state Gregory said that :
> 
> There is some speckle on bright pictures (warner logo from dune)
> The red tint is not an issue and can be removed by lowering the laser power and set a DV mode (bright or dark)
> The BT2020 colorspace is covered at 89%, which is better than mono lasers (including the C2) but less than the other tri-lasers
> It is not a show stopper for me, especially if nobody here was bothered by the speckle, but I wait a status on MEMC in dolby vision. If confirmed and not fixable I'll wait for another model


Sounds good except the fact I feel some HDR and DV stuff is too dark, like some scenes I feel like are in a dark room and you see highlights only. I try to get the brightness as high as I can go, but it seems its not a brightness issue, just the tone mapping. But lowering the brightness would probably make it worse 

So far though I have not had an issue with reds.

I have to admit the blacks are black and it looks great, and infact might be more "life like" but when I was watching say Star Wars last night and they were on the Jawas ship it was like a dark room and you saw not much of anything. Seeing other peoples pictures look brighter than mine, I wondered if my screen was upside down or something. No its not I tested, even took plain white paper today just to compare and the screen is just as bright and better contrast.

There is a view mode in HDR called showy mode I think, and it will increase the brightness of some scenes by bumping up saturation, but it wont help with shadow detail or overall dark areas.
Raising the brightness up will start making the blacks less black but still not bring in any detail so its not because of brightness, its just how its mapped, and possibly just the content and I am not used to it being that I just started to watch things in HDR/DV.



> I'm not at all concerned about the BT2020 color space. How are the black levels? Is the gas and mist of the other projectors (Hisense and Sammy) gone? Also - - laser speckle can be affected by your screen. What are you using? Thanks.


IMO Blacks are amazing I cant see any difference in the blacks projected on screen and the areas of the screen without projection. Scenes that are dark with highlights seem to be produced very well without the highlights effecting the surrounding dark areas. I also have not seen any fog/blur. I have seen a lot of horror videos on the Vava Chroma threads about dark scenes and I have not seen or experienced any of that so far on the T1.

I think a lot of those issues are supposed to be because of MEMC? I have it OFF, but in DV I think it overrides and might have it on, because you lose the option to change it in DV mode, and I noticed more "motion smoothness" than when watching in HDR/SDR.


----------



## Adamgoodapp

Tanizhq said:


> I mean he is comparing it to 2 projectors which are over 2x the price


It should be compared to other USTs around the same price point which I believe there is still no competition to the T1. At least the problems it has right now is something that can be fixed with a software update.

To be honest, my last projector was a Optoma hd600x 720p I had back in 2010, looking at all your pictures blows my mind how colorful crisp they are.


----------



## mayaCH

Ricoflashback said:


> I'm not at all concerned about the BT2020 color space. How are the black levels? Is the gas and mist of the other projectors (Hisense and Sammy) gone? Also - - laser speckle can be affected by your screen. What are you using? Thanks.


to add on the voltage thing: usually low power devices, as this laser pj is, have SHIM regulated powersupplies (transformator -> SHIM regulator w/ condencators to equalize pulses), that keep correct voltage on DC side with a broad voltage variance from AC side. the different frequenci is also irrelevant then. But again, i don't know this exact device, mine arrives at 2/2 and since i don't exspect any warranty, i will for sure take a look inside (not a full teardown, but some photos of the internals)

@forum, about image quality you guys scare me a little, this is my first pj. i had any kind of pjs yet. all say photos from on screen images are always worse than the actual image with your own eyes, so a quastion in case there will be no fw update to fix the red-issue: is it really that bad, or are this just critics on a high level? thanks in advance.
those few days to wait to see it my self are hard, i hate anticipation, but i won't judge it on behalf of the photos and patiently suffer of waiting.


----------



## CabbageMan

Tanizhq said:


> I mean he is comparing it to 2 projectors which are over 2x the price


But other than color space, it seems like the T1 has those both beat right? I think the black levels are the biggest issue and on the L9G they are awful. On the LSP9T, they are okay but don't look like the pictures I've been seeing on here. Also laser speckle on the LSP9T is very bad. 

I think the T1 is still the best projector you can get even with the the color space being a little lower than the L9G and LSP9T.


----------



## 3sprit

mayaCH said:


> mean this? Fengmi Formovie T1 : un projecteur triple laser ultra courte focale avec support Dolby Vision. – – Le Blog de PHC –


----------



## Kev1000000

CabbageMan said:


> But other than color space, it seems like the T1 has those both beat right? I think the black levels are the biggest issue and on the L9G they are awful. On the LSP9T, they are okay but don't look like the pictures I've been seeing on here. Also laser speckle on the LSP9T is very bad.
> 
> I think the T1 is still the best projector you can get even with the the color space being a little lower than the L9G and LSP9T.


Agreed. The only thing holding me back on the T1 is the comparison of laser speckle to the LSP9T and L9G. I am super sensitive to it, and I couldn't stick with the LSP9T because of it. The L9G controlled them a bit more, and I could have lived with it, but the black levels were the deal breaker there. Considering the T1 solves the black level issue, the last thing I am concerned about is the laser speckle. Just need to know how it compares to those two projectors.


----------



## CabbageMan

Kev1000000 said:


> Agreed. The only thing holding me back on the T1 is the comparison of laser speckle to the LSP9T and L9G. I am super sensitive to it, and I couldn't stick with the LSP9T because of it. The L9G controlled them a bit more, and I could have lived with it, but the black levels were the deal breaker there. Considering the T1 solves the black level issue, the last thing I am concerned about is the laser speckle. Just need to know how it compares to those two projectors.


From what I have seen on here, it is very slight. I am sure some people who have received theirs will chime in here.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

I think I have a pretty critical eye and have not noticed any speckle. But this is my first real projector as well, so I am not trained to look for it.
I agree to above the pictures I have shared are terrible compared to what I am actually seeing with my eyes.
Granted just cell phone pics, and I have to use the ultra wide angle lens due to the size of the screen. if I was going to do in depth I would break out my DSLR.

I think video shows a little better than pictures, this was a little short from last night that I sent to my SW buddy to make him jealous.


----------



## ngcoolman

lattiboy said:


> Been meaning to do this! Toggled my display type in Roku Ultra between DV and regular HDR and loaded up the Witcher season 2 episode 8. DV looks *wildly* better in every show I’ve tested it. View mode brightness for both, bright mode DV, custom settings for HDR pretty close to standard image mode:
> 
> HDR:
> View attachment 3230712
> 
> 
> DV:
> 
> View attachment 3230711
> 
> 
> BUT! In certain scenes this red push comes in and is a bit distracting. Still, I’ll take the DV over the HDR even with red push.
> 
> HDR:
> View attachment 3230713
> 
> 
> DV
> View attachment 3230715
> 
> 
> This is a close up crop shot to show the effect:
> 
> HDR
> View attachment 3230718
> 
> 
> DV
> 
> View attachment 3230720


I took some photos of the same scenes from my Xbox Series X, I added SDR too. DV setting = View (movie) + Dark. SDR and HDR settings = custom brightness 53, contrast 49, saturation 50, sharpness 0, tone 50, color temp = 924 red, 1024 green, 924 blue, dynamic contrast = off. Overall, i think DV look the best most of the time. 

SDR









HDR









DV









SDR









HDR









DV









SDR









HDR









DV









I also took some photos from single inferno

SDR 









HDR









DV









SDR









hdr









DV (the photo may not show it clearly, but in DV, there is a red tint for the sky and pants which make them too pinkish)


----------



## CabbageMan

Can you guys suggest the best movies to watch to show this off once it comes?


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

ngcoolman said:


> I took some photos of the same scenes from my Xbox Series X, I added SDR too. DV setting = View (movie) + Dark. SDR and HDR settings = custom brightness 53, contrast 49, saturation 50, sharpness 0, tone 50, color temp = 924 red, 1024 green, 924 blue, dynamic contrast = off. Overall, i think DV look the best most of the time.


What I see here is in line with my experience as well. DV is AMAZING, and HDR seems too dark.
I think given a movie that is too dark in HDR I would prefer to watch in SDR.

But I am not sure how to play my content in SDR on my Shield, there is a toggle to turn on/off DV but not HDR.

I attempted to change my display mode to a 8bit non HDR setting globally and that gave me a black screen and no display.

I also do have one strange issue, I do randomly lose 4K60fps HDR + DV on the shield and it will go to 4K30fps, if I go to switch it back the 4K60 is missing, and the only way to get it back is to change the HDMI version on the T1. Toggling back and forth between HDMI 2.0 and 2.1 when it happens. Always fixes it when I switch.

I really want to turn off the "auto standby" feature on the projector, as when it detects the display source as off even for a moment (such as in the case of resolution switching) it may put the projector in standby mode.

An annoyance, not a deal breaker.


----------



## lattiboy

Having gone directly from the Xaomi C2 to the T1 I am questioning Gregory’s judgement here. I posted this earlier, but I will post it again as everybody is freaking out about his intial impressions. Mind you, this is with his recommended C2 settings, a very high quality BluRay ripAND the T1 had ambient light:

C2










T1










The colors on this thing are absolutely amazing. The only projector I’ve seen with better color is the Bomaker Polaris 4K, but it has a raft of other issues and nowhere near the black levels.

I mentioned before speckle is there, but compared to other PJs it is incredibly minimal.

They really do need to address the DV color situation, and give us more custom picture modes. Outside of that, I just don’t know what else you would want from a $2500 projector.

And I have seen the Hisense L9 in person, The black levels are just nowhere near the T1.


----------



## abaintor

Adamgoodapp said:


> It should be compared to other USTs around the same price point which I believe there is still no competition to the T1. At least the problems it has right now is something that can be fixed with a software update.
> 
> To be honest, my last projector was a Optoma hd600x 720p I had back in 2010, looking at all your pictures blows my mind how colorful crisp they are.


I disagree, these other USTs are more expensive because they are not from chinese brands but they share the same components, including this "cheap chip" DMD of 0.47". The implementation is different and in that way chinese models are superior on contrast at least.


----------



## Brajesh

CabbageMan said:


> Can you guys suggest the best movies to watch to show this off once it comes?


'Awaken' DV UHD disc
'Aquaman' DV UHD disc
'Dune' DV UHD disc
'Gemini Man' DV UHD disc (60fps)
'No Time to Die' DV UHD disc

IMAX Enhanced titles (like 'Black Panther') on Disney+
Dolby's 'Amaze' trailer


----------



## lattiboy

CabbageMan said:


> Can you guys suggest the best movies to watch to show this off once it comes?


Gaurdians of the Galaxy Vol 2 on Disney+
Blue Planet II episode 3
Pacific Rim
Candyman
Archive 81 on Netflix
Awaken (2018 movie)
Dune 2021


----------



## Brajesh

Do you mean Archive 81? Never heard of this, but will check out.


----------



## mirkmito

Brajesh said:


> 'Awaken' DV UHD disc
> 'Aquaman' DV UHD disc
> 'Dune' DV UHD disc
> 'Gemini Man' DV UHD disc (60fps)
> 'No Time to Die' DV UHD disc
> 
> IMAX Enhanced titles (like 'Black Panther') on Disney+
> Dolby's 'Amaze' trailer





Brajesh said:


> 'Awaken' DV UHD disc
> 'Aquaman' DV UHD disc
> 'Dune' DV UHD disc
> 'Gemini Man' DV UHD disc (60fps)
> 'No Time to Die' DV UHD disc
> 
> IMAX Enhanced titles (like 'Black Panther') on Disney+
> Dolby's 'Amaze' trailer


Have you had 24p stuttering issues with BD (2k - 4k - 4k DV)?


----------



## ngcoolman

ViciousXUSMC said:


> What I see here is in line with my experience as well. DV is AMAZING, and HDR seems too dark.
> I think given a movie that is too dark in HDR I would prefer to watch in SDR.
> 
> But I am not sure how to play my content in SDR on my Shield, there is a toggle to turn on/off DV but not HDR.
> 
> I attempted to change my display mode to a 8bit non HDR setting globally and that gave me a black screen and no display.
> 
> I also do have one strange issue, I do randomly lose 4K60fps HDR + DV on the shield and it will go to 4K30fps, if I go to switch it back the 4K60 is missing, and the only way to get it back is to change the HDMI version on the T1. Toggling back and forth between HDMI 2.0 and 2.1 when it happens. Always fixes it when I switch.
> 
> I really want to turn off the "auto standby" feature on the projector, as when it detects the display source as off even for a moment (such as in the case of resolution switching) it may put the projector in standby mode.
> 
> An annoyance, not a deal breaker.


Actually, I have experienced similar problem for my XSX. Occasionally, the screen resolution drops to 1080p at the start which I need to toggle between 2.0 and 2.1 to get back to 4k60 with dv.


----------



## Ricoflashback

ViciousXUSMC said:


> What I see here is in line with my experience as well. DV is AMAZING, and HDR seems too dark.
> I think given a movie that is too dark in HDR I would prefer to watch in SDR.
> 
> But I am not sure how to play my content in SDR on my Shield, there is a toggle to turn on/off DV but not HDR.
> 
> I attempted to change my display mode to a 8bit non HDR setting globally and that gave me a black screen and no display.
> 
> I also do have one strange issue, I do randomly lose 4K60fps HDR + DV on the shield and it will go to 4K30fps, if I go to switch it back the 4K60 is missing, and the only way to get it back is to change the HDMI version on the T1. Toggling back and forth between HDMI 2.0 and 2.1 when it happens. Always fixes it when I switch.
> 
> I really want to turn off the "auto standby" feature on the projector, as when it detects the display source as off even for a moment (such as in the case of resolution switching) it may put the projector in standby mode.
> 
> An annoyance, not a deal breaker.


I'm not sure if this will work but give it a go. "Change your display settings to one of the 8 bit settings. That way streaming services will see the Shield as not being HDR."

Whoops - saw that you tried this. Any other 8 bit version settings to try?


----------



## Brajesh

Wow, this thread has been on fire ! @mirkmito, I haven't noticed judder or stuttering w/24p DV content, but I also haven't watched any movies long enough to judge. Just sampling scenes so far. I'm sure one of us w/T1 will evaluate this soon.


----------



## kraine

Lattiboy sorry but your Xiaomi C2 picture doesn’t match with this projector in real life. In fact after measurements and calibration the C2 have more brightness and contrast than the T1. I have post the calibration results on the blog.





__





22/04/zjsh.jpg - Visionneuse Zupimages







www.zupimages.net





This is the picture of the Xiaomi laser Cinéma 2 wich handle HDR and DV signals much easily for the end user than the Fengmi :


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Ricoflashback said:


> I'm not sure if this will work but give it a go. "Change your display settings to one of the 8 bit settings. That way streaming services will see the Shield as not being HDR."
> 
> Whoops - saw that you tried this. Any other 8 bit version settings to try?


Yes there are several to choose from, almost terrified to try I had a black screen for like 2 minutes thinking how am I going to get display again to fix the issue. But luckily I think it will time out and go back after so long, but between everything trying to turn itself off when it doesnt detect a signal it was a pain. I think the PJ turned off the shield and the shield turn off the AVR lol.

I wish there was just a quick way to do it, resolution switching is a pain.

Hoping Plex adds a manual HDR SDR tone map feature that I can force. They have it now when a SDR device is used, but if HDR device is used it wont enable. Forcing it to play SDR even with a HDR device would be a perfect fix, and it probably would look even better than SDR as it adds that extra tone mapping.


----------



## mirkmito

kraine said:


> Lattiboy sorry but your Xiaomi C2 doesn’t match with this projector in real life. In fact after measurements and calibration the C2 have more brightness and contrast than the T1. I have post the calibration results on the blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 22/04/zjsh.jpg - Visionneuse Zupimages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.zupimages.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the picture of the Xiaomi laser Cinéma 2 wich handle HDR and DV signals much easily for the end user than the Fengmi :


Is it possible to do a minimum calibration even in HDR?


----------



## kraine

Of course the HDR picture offer the possibility to use the custom mode (this isn’t the case of DV).


----------



## mirkmito

kraine said:


> Of course the HDR picture offer the possibility to use the custom mode (this isn’t the case of DV).


Just to confirm, when I look in SDR (fullhd) manually I have to change the parameters .... And when I look at HDR content I have to change the parameters again? Right?


----------



## GaeIta80

Ok guys, to be honest I was worried by this red tint issue and MEMC not active on DV (yet!)...I have played for about 1h with all DV content across Netflix, Prime, Disney +...and even if I am projecting on a ****ty white wall, I am really impressed by the sharpness, amazing PQ and the sound guys, it's a mini home theatre 🎥 😀 

Below a little road show of DV (Movie, Bright) content, just need a proper screen and unlimited 🍿


----------



## Adamgoodapp

abaintor said:


> I disagree, these other USTs are more expensive because they are not from chinese brands but they share the same components, including this "cheap chip" DMD of 0.47". The implementation is different and in that way chinese models are superior on contrast at least.


The higher price points can help towards other aspects like hiring better/more people and having more time to work on testing and making the software better.


----------



## kraine

mirkmito said:


> Just to confirm, when I look in SDR (fullhd) manually I have to change the parameters .... And when I look at HDR content I have to change the parameters again? Right?


Exactly.


----------



## CabbageMan

Adamgoodapp said:


> The higher price points can help towards other aspects like hiring better/more people and having more time to work on testing and making the software better.


I would still want it to be compared to the high end ones. Even with those being double the price, still seems like the T1 beats them. Its should be compared to PJ in the same price range of course, but to the ones above it as well.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Shower thoughts: Someone needs to design a center speaker made for UST.
Unfortunately the size of my center wont let me put it above and behind the PJ, and its too big and my space is not accommodating to put it in front.
So its going to be stuck below (lucky if its there just barely)

But hear me out: A U-Shaped center speaker that sits infront of the projector, its shallow in the center where the tweeter and possibly mid range drivers are, then the mass for the woofers and airspace flanks on both sides. Hopefully giving you the performance of a full size center, while accommodating the geometry of a UST.

Just would have to worry about not blocking air vents, so make it extra wide.

Shower Thought #2: Let us send a speaker line level input to the UST to directly power the speakers and use the PJ itself as a center speaker and have all the processing done by the AVR.


----------



## Ricoflashback

CabbageMan said:


> I would still want it to be compared to the high end ones. Even with those being double the price, still seems like the T1 beats them. Its should be compared to PJ in the same price range of course, but to the ones above it as well.


There is no perfect projector. Especially at the T1 price point. I can live with the red tones and other issues if the colors pop, the picture is sharp AND the black levels are a step up - - no mist, gas, fog - - whatever you want to call it. The latter is a huge deal to me compared to other UST's. And yes - - this thread is "En Fuego!!!" 🚀


----------



## kraine

Small precision of importance my assembly has from the measurements of the
Gamut of the Fengmi T1, Samsung SP9T and Hisense L9G is only to demonstrate that
the announcements of the manufacturer (Fengmi) on a complete rec.2020 coverage are false. It does not constitute a qualitative ranking.


----------



## Malaveae

GaeIta80 said:


> Ok guys, to be honest I was worried by this red tint issue and MEMC not active on DV (yet!)...I have played for about 1h with all DV content across Netflix, Prime, Disney +...and even if I am projecting on a ****ty white wall, I am really impressed by the sharpness, amazing PQ and the sound guys, it's a mini home theatre 🎥 😀
> 
> Below a little road show of DV (Movie, Bright) content, just need a proper screen and unlimited 🍿
> View attachment 3231139
> 
> View attachment 3231132
> View attachment 3231133
> View attachment 3231134
> View attachment 3231137
> View attachment 3231138
> View attachment 3231135
> View attachment 3231129
> View attachment 3231130


you only need the popcorns


----------



## zoomx2

HDMI2 doesn’t work show connected but no image. Anyone experienced it or I did something wrong?


----------



## mayaCH

Adamgoodapp said:


> The higher price points can help towards other aspects like hiring better/more people and having more time to work on testing and making the software better.


you are absolutely right, but the higher price is not going into RnD. 10-15% going to customs+shipments, 40-50% at least are going to the reseller chain.
i ordered the T1 from alibaba, paid 60,- extra to get DHL Express (personal needs) instead of Fedex + paid 95,- for customs duty (dhl express cleared that already). While combined i am still 800,- below the local cheapest price of the original vava (the white one, not chroma. which i considered before found this forum).
Ofc. i dsipense the warranty and services. While the local seller here for the cheapest price is not known for a good service also. They don't just replace your device, they take it to send it away and you wait for weeks or months.
If i would compare to a local seller, who really does great service and would replace/repair a unit asap, we are talking of a price difference (vava original model to compare) of at least 1500-2000 more than i paid for t1.

I totally understand, that local sellers with good service are worth the price addition, but i am not wealthy enough. Things would change, if service needed more than once.
My only fear is DOA, since its my first order from alibaba. In any other case, i better pay for a E-Tech service to repair or just buy another T1.

Another thing is, that the original vava is just a few weeks available here. so t1 will be not available here for another half a year on bulk sellers.

disclaimer: i am not talking prices or deals here, only relative comparison.


----------



## Brajesh

zoomx2 said:


> HDMI2 doesn’t work show connected but no image. Anyone experienced it or I did something wrong?


All 3 ports work fine, but I find T1 very fussy in locking onto incoming signals. Takes me multiple attempts sometimes, including powering my AVR or source device on/off, switching to another input & back. My AVR, source devices and HDMI cables are all able to handle the necessary bandwidth.


----------



## CabbageMan

Can anyone recommend a good 110" ALR UST specific screen that isn't absurdly expensive? I was wanting to get 115" Akia CLR4 but it might be just slightly too big.


----------



## mayaCH

CabbageMan said:


> Can anyone recommend a good 110" ALR UST specific screen that isn't absurdly expensive? I was wanting to get 115" Akia CLR4 but it might be just slightly too big.


i can't, but a question, is it slightly too big to mount in your room, or too big to watch from a certain seat distance?
for me is 120 (135" is max to mount in my case) perfectly to mount, while might be too big from seat. i still want a 120, because i can anytime adjust the image smaller to fit my seat distance. it does not make any difference, if the space around is the wall or still part of the screen. while i could not adjust the image bigger than the screen, if i buy a 100" one.


----------



## GaeIta80

For SDR I found Display/Cinema to be the best combo while for DV View/Bright (testing Black too).

Amazon Firestick 4k Max works smoothly and I am using the T1 remote to control everything.

Also just confirming that black levels are really top notch, colours pop without that big saturation I was fearing, Dolby Atmos effect is filling the room and MEMC low works a magic (hopefully soon in DV too)


----------



## Ricoflashback

CabbageMan said:


> Can anyone recommend a good 110" ALR UST specific screen that isn't absurdly expensive? I was wanting to get 115" Akia CLR4 but it might be just slightly too big.


Check with Brian at projectorscreen.com. From everything I've read - - the Grandview Dynamique works great. There are more expensive screens out there but the picture is superb as well as the price.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

CabbageMan said:


> Can anyone recommend a good 110" ALR UST specific screen that isn't absurdly expensive? I was wanting to get 115" Akia CLR4 but it might be just slightly too big.


If you do get this one, let me know your thoughts.
That is the screen I got, and my first UST ALR experience.


----------



## CabbageMan

Ricoflashback said:


> Check with Brian at projectorscreen.com. From everything I've read - - the Grandview Dynamique works great. There are more expensive screens out there but the picture is superb as well as the price.


Yeah I've looked there just $2,000 for the 110" is a bit more than I want to spend.


----------



## CabbageMan

ViciousXUSMC said:


> If you do get this one, let me know your thoughts.
> That is the screen I got, and my first UST ALR experience.


You have the Akia? how do you like it? I will definitely share my thoughts if I get it.


----------



## Ricoflashback

CabbageMan said:


> Yeah I've looked there just $2,000 for the 110" is a bit more than I want to spend.


Yes, big jump between a 100" to a 120" size. I'm not sure why such a large price difference. For that amount, I'd look at the SI Zero Edge Pro but honestly, I'm not sure how much difference there is in picture quality between the Dynamique and the SI Zero Edge Pro. Maybe better construction and options for hanging but outside of that - - most of these screens use the same ALR material. 

Look at these folks, as well:









7mm Frame ALR Screen - AZ


Fixed ALR UST Projector Screen for Vava chroma, optoma, Xiaomi, BenQ, LG, Epson, Sony...4K Laser projector home theatre system



www.samsav.com


----------



## Brajesh

GaeIta80 said:


> ...I am really impressed by the sharpness...


Can you please put up the electronic focus pattern & take a picture of it? I'm not finding the focus uniformity as good as my Wemax A300 (and even my VAVA Chroma was a bit better on this). This affects sharpness in the top half of the picture, especially the corners.


----------



## arsenalfc89

mirkmito said:


> View attachment 3231037


The T1 coverage of Rec .2020 is similar to the Chroma. Just to show you that Xiaomi/Fengmi/Vava are basically cousins.


----------



## lattiboy

kraine said:


> Lattiboy sorry but your Xiaomi C2 picture doesn’t match with this projector in real life. In fact after measurements and calibration the C2 have more brightness and contrast than the T1. I have post the calibration results on the blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 22/04/zjsh.jpg - Visionneuse Zupimages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.zupimages.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the picture of the Xiaomi laser Cinéma 2 wich handle HDR and DV signals much easily for the end user than the Fengmi :



Both of those pictures are from the same room, same screen, taken within a few days of each other with the same camera from the same source. It is very much real life and I didn’t adjust the photo to give the T1 the edge.

I fully agree the C2 is more color accurate, quieter, and has mildly better black levels, but the T1 colors are simply in another universe. 

I appreciate the work you do, and I would not even be aware of these Chinese brands if not for your reviews. So thank you. 

Here is a Dolby Vision example. C2 top, T1 bottom. You can see the red issue in the soldiers face:


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

P.S. I have wanted a UST (Formally was thinking ST like the Optoma GT1080) for YEARS like over 7 years.
I have been holding onto my XBOX 360 this entire time, for just one goal....

Now I finally have achieved it


----------



## CabbageMan

mayaCH said:


> i can't, but a question, is it slightly too big to mount in your room, or too big to watch from a certain seat distance?
> for me is 120 (135" is max to mount in my case) perfectly to mount, while might be too big from seat. i still want a 120, because i can anytime adjust the image smaller to fit my seat distance. it does not make any difference, if the space around is the wall or still part of the screen. while i could not adjust the image bigger than the screen, if i buy a 100" one.


I will seated about 12 feet from the wall the screen will be mounted on. I have plenty of horizontal space but floor to ceiling is only 7.75 feet. the 115" gets a little close to the ceiling with the stand I am planning on using. But it may be fine. I think the 115 shouldn't be too big from that distance. Do you agree with that?


----------



## mayaCH

CabbageMan said:


> I will seated about 12 feet from the wall the screen will be mounted on. I have plenty of horizontal space but floor to ceiling is only 7.75 feet. the 115" gets a little close to the ceiling with the stand I am planning on using. But it may be fine. I think the 115 shouldn't be too big from that distance. Do you agree with that?


my ceiling is 8.26feet, so i would still have about 20cm above the screen to ceiling with my rack (47cm high, where the t1 will be placed). so it is a little complicated to give any good advises, especially i don't have my pj and screen yet. i just say, you can always put jour ust pj nearer to the screen and have smaller image + less light leak to ceiling, if you go for a bigger screen. not vice versa.
in my brain, i would instantly buy a 135-140" screen and just put it directly aligned to the ceiling. i might be totally wrong. but i know for sure, that i am ok, if i project a smaller image to the screen and have a bigger "frame" around the image.

edit: to explain, i am, from IT and server stuff, so if am able to get more and scale it down, is better, than get less and buy again to scale up


----------



## arsenalfc89

I think those that are considering getting a T1, C2, or Chroma shouldn’t worry too much. What it comes down to is what you value. With the ALPD products you get great blacks but honestly comparing it to the Hisense or even Benq that’s where it stops. Is having good blacks more important than a color accurate projector with settings that actual work and are far beyond the ALPD products? Yeah the blacks won’t be as good but you get what you pay for as in a projector that just works as intended. I’m personally happy with the Chroma (more updates to come) and the other ALPD projectors but comparing it to the Hisense L9 and Benq, you are giving up quite a bit. This is just something you have to decide and accept for yourself.


----------



## Ricoflashback

arsenalfc89 said:


> I think those that are considering getting a T1, C2, or Chroma shouldn’t worry too much. What it comes down to is what you value. With the ALPD products you get great blacks but honestly comparing it to the Hisense or even Benq that’s where it stops. Is having good blacks more important than a color accurate projector with settings that actual work and are far beyond the ALPD products? Yeah the blacks won’t be as good but you get what you pay for as in a projector that just works as intended. I’m personally happy with the Chroma (more updates to come) and the other ALPD projectors but comparing it to the Hisense L9 and Benq, you are giving up quite a bit. This is just something you have to decide and accept for yourself.


I'm not sure I agree with your premise about accuracy and color reproduction. After all, how much can your eyes see between 90% and 110% - or whatever the specs are stated at? It is true that the Fengmi T1 and other like projectors could certainly use a CMS and more customization features. But picture quality, black levels and the elimination of gas, mist or fog is absolutely huge in my opinion. I was considering the BenQ V7050i before I saw the Fengmi T1. The pictures posted of the Fengmi T1 blow away anything the V7050i has. I've never been an accuracy guy over what pleases my eye and I find no value in 100% accuracy over my viewing pleasure. And I don't think I'm giving up anything at all. I'm just gaining a far superior picture.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

CabbageMan said:


> I will seated about 12 feet from the wall the screen will be mounted on. I have plenty of horizontal space but floor to ceiling is only 7.75 feet. the 115" gets a little close to the ceiling with the stand I am planning on using. But it may be fine. I think the 115 shouldn't be too big from that distance. Do you agree with that?


So just broke out the tape measure for you.
As you can see above my ceiling is vaulted, at its lowest point it just either 7' or an inch or so larger than 7'

If I slid my screen all the way over I still have a bit over an inch of clearance before I would run out of space and hit the ceiling.
My projector is sitting on a TV stand that is not particularly low profile, witch I could do if I had needed the screen lower down.

I sit 11' away and I think the size is great, and if I had not needed to fit my speakers on the wall I would even have wanted a 120"
Everything ended up working PERFECTLY in my setup just by pure luck and educational guesses.

My 75" TV was mounted much lower down, following the THX spec guidelines where the center of the screen was 42" from the ground or something like that.
It was fine, but sometimes I wondered if it looked a little bit low even though technically it was following proper ergonomics.

So having the screen so high I was affraid I might be joining the #TVTOOHIGH crew, but I can easily say, this is not the case. Viewing is incredibly comfortable, even more comfortable than the TV. I don't feel like I am looking up at the screen at all, and this is also probably in part of my laid back sitting style and my sofa is a recliner as well.


----------



## mayaCH

CabbageMan said:


> I will seated about 12 feet from the wall the screen will be mounted on. I have plenty of horizontal space but floor to ceiling is only 7.75 feet. the 115" gets a little close to the ceiling with the stand I am planning on using. But it may be fine. I think the 115 shouldn't be too big from that distance. Do you agree with that?


if you just plan a rack, you might decide for a different rack yet. i moved a few months ago and took my (sadly) very expensive spectral rack, that i bought not long ago, but thought i would live in the old appartement for long time... still, to get the screen as big as possible, i would sell it for a ridiculously low price on classifieds or ebay. wouldn't hurt if it was something cheap from ikea-alike.
another issue is my center, which is oldschool and massive, so i can't put it behind+above the pj. i consider a new rack that is really low height, just to put the center below the pj (with an angle front higher).
this might be offtopic here, but may be it helps to another newcomers for UST to do bettrer planing in front


----------



## arsenalfc89

Ricoflashback said:


> I'm not sure I agree with your premise about accuracy and color reproduction. After all, how much can your eyes see between 90% and 110% - or whatever the specs are stated at? It is true that the Fengmi T1 and other like projectors could certainly use a CMS and more customization features. But picture quality, black levels and the elimination of gas, mist or fog is absolutely huge in my opinion. I was considering the BenQ V7050i before I saw the Fengmi T1. The pictures posted of the Fengmi T1 blow away anything the V7050i has. I've never been an accuracy guy over what pleases my eye and I find no value in 100% accuracy over my viewing pleasure. And I don't think I'm giving up anything at all. I'm just gaining a far superior picture.


I wouldn’t go by pictures until you see it in person. I actually bought the BenQ and let me tell you the picture quality is exceptional its not even close. It’s also not just the coverage but how things are implemented (including color gamut). There is a reason why it’s extremely highly rated along with the Hisense.The ALPD products can get fairly accurate but not to the level of the BenQ and Hisense. I only got rid of the Benq when I heard about the Chroma (excited about the ALPD 4.0) coming out lol. Again it depends on what you value. If better blacks is more import then yeah ALPD is the way to go. Bit you won’t realize how much you’re giving up until you try the other projectors.


----------



## Ricoflashback

arsenalfc89 said:


> I wouldn’t go by pictures until you see it in person. I actually bought the BenQ and let me tell you the picture quality is exceptional its not even close. It’s also not just the coverage but how things are implemented. There is a reason why it’s extremely highly rated. The ALPD products can get fairly accurate but not to the level of the BenQ and Hisense. I only got rid of the Benq when I heard about the Chroma coming out lol. Again it depends on what you value. If better blacks is more import then yeah ALPD is the way to go.


I understand your point. But I have a problem with "accurate" as opposed to what it looks like to me. I've never been a calibration guy. Sorry - - just not my bag. I'm not one to be satisfied knowing my picture is 100% accurate - - especially if it looks like crap to my eyes. One of the reasons I like BenQ projectors is the "out of the box experience." But the gas, fog and mist of DLP projectors is one of the biggest drawbacks to me. It kills shadow detail and black levels. It's always present and can be seen, scene by scene. Pun intended. It's obvious a trade-off, like you said, in terms of what's important to you. At at a grand less than a BenQ or PX1-Pro - - that goes a long way towards paying for my projector screen, too!


----------



## arsenalfc89

Ricoflashback said:


> I understand your point. But I have a problem with "accurate" as opposed to what it looks like to me. I've never been a calibration guy. Sorry - - just not my bag. I'm not one to be satisfied knowing my picture is 100% accurate - - especially if it looks like crap to my eyes. One of the reasons I like BenQ projectors is the "out of the box experience." But the gas, fog and mist of DLP projectors is one of the biggest drawbacks to me. It kills shadow detail and black levels. It's always present and can be seen, scene by scene. Pun intended. It's obvious a trade-off, like you said, in terms of what's important to you. At at a grand less than a BenQ or PX1-Pro - - that goes a long way towards paying for my projector screen, too!


Oh yes definitely. In fact I’m a fan of calibrating to what you like. When I calibrate my projector, I still purposely tweak it to my taste so it’s not always 100% (on purpose).


----------



## Ricoflashback

mayaCH said:


> if you just plan a rack, you might decide for a different rack yet. i moved a few months ago and took my (sadly) very expensive spectral rack, that i bought not long ago, but thought i would live in the old appartement for long time... still, to get the screen as big as possible, i would sell it for a ridiculously low price on classifieds or ebay. wouldn't hurt if it was something cheap from ikea-alike.
> another issue is my center, which is oldschool and massive, so i can't put it behind+above the pj. i consider a new rack that is really low height, just to put the center below the pj (with an angle front higher).
> this might be offtopic here, but may be it helps to another newcomers for UST to do bettrer planing in front


Figuring out your space and how to locate a center channel with a UST setup is a real challenge. It would have been nice if Fengmi or Xiaomi enabled the T1 to also be the center channel in your setup. That would have solved a lot of problems. Quite frankly, I'd focus on a UST PJ with a center channel option that can work with multiple L/R speakers. I don't need any bass (or very little) with my center speaker. I just want to hear the dialog clearly.

So, for my setup, I'll need to have a standard, 10 foot ceiling (U.S.) to work with the 21" High cabinet (Furnitech) that will house my very large Paradigm CC-690 speaker below the PJ. It will be angled up towards the listener. Not the most optimal setup as I'd like it higher but the dialog and presence is far greater with my center speaker than any soundbar or the built in speakers in the T1. 

I see that some folks have a real low stand or cabinet. We have cats and that would never work for us. I can see them jumping all over it now.


----------



## GaeIta80

Guys, could you share your "Custom" image set up for HDR content? Thanks!


----------



## GaeIta80

Some other extra shots from YT in 4K 🙂

I understand why people get impressed by these colours


----------



## CabbageMan

ViciousXUSMC said:


> So just broke out the tape measure for you.
> As you can see above my ceiling is vaulted, at its lowest point it just either 7' or an inch or so larger than 7'
> 
> If I slid my screen all the way over I still have a bit over an inch of clearance before I would run out of space and hit the ceiling.
> My projector is sitting on a TV stand that is not particularly low profile, witch I could do if I had needed the screen lower down.
> 
> I sit 11' away and I think the size is great, and if I had not needed to fit my speakers on the wall I would even have wanted a 120"
> Everything ended up working PERFECTLY in my setup just by pure luck and educational guesses.
> 
> My 75" TV was mounted much lower down, following the THX spec guidelines where the center of the screen was 42" from the ground or something like that.
> It was fine, but sometimes I wondered if it looked a little bit low even though technically it was following proper ergonomics.
> 
> So having the screen so high I was affraid I might be joining the #TVTOOHIGH crew, but I can easily say, this is not the case. Viewing is incredibly comfortable, even more comfortable than the TV. I don't feel like I am looking up at the screen at all, and this is also probably in part of my laid back sitting style and my sofa is a recliner as well.


And you have the 115" Akia? I think I am going to go for it. with the stand I am using it'll leave just over 7 inches from the top of the screen to the ceiling. I think that should be good.


----------



## chrisdu46

GaeIta80 said:


> Quelques autres clichés supplémentaires de YT en 4K 🙂
> 
> Je comprends pourquoi les gens sont impressionnés par ces couleurs
> 
> View attachment 3231216
> View attachment 3231212
> View attachment 3231213
> 
> View attachment 3231219
> 
> [/DEVIS]
> 
> Que pensez-vous des premiers retours de Grégory ? Partagez-vous son ressenti : « Il y a aussi beaucoup de travail à faire en HDR aussi. Je suis assez fan de Fengmi, mais là j'ai l'impression qu'ils ont sorti leur machine un peu vite. C'est navrant de voir la différence de qualité entre la gestion Dolby Vision du Xiaomi C2 et celle du T1."


----------



## Ricoflashback

ngcoolman said:


> I took some photos of the same scenes from my Xbox Series X, I added SDR too. DV setting = View (movie) + Dark. SDR and HDR settings = custom brightness 53, contrast 49, saturation 50, sharpness 0, tone 50, color temp = 924 red, 1024 green, 924 blue, dynamic contrast = off. Overall, i think DV look the best most of the time.
> 
> SDR
> View attachment 3231111
> 
> 
> HDR
> View attachment 3231112
> 
> 
> DV
> View attachment 3231113
> 
> 
> SDR
> View attachment 3231114
> 
> 
> HDR
> View attachment 3231115
> 
> 
> DV
> View attachment 3231116
> 
> 
> SDR
> View attachment 3231117
> 
> 
> HDR
> View attachment 3231118
> 
> 
> DV
> View attachment 3231119
> 
> 
> I also took some photos from single inferno
> 
> SDR
> View attachment 3231120
> 
> 
> HDR
> View attachment 3231121
> 
> 
> DV
> View attachment 3231122
> 
> 
> SDR
> View attachment 3231123
> 
> 
> hdr
> View attachment 3231124
> 
> 
> DV (the photo may not show it clearly, but in DV, there is a red tint for the sky and pants which make them too pinkish)
> View attachment 3231125


Boy, it really depends on the content, scene by scene. Now I understand why Lumagen and madVR Labs charge so much for their processors. The Witcher example in SDR looks better to me with a lot more shadow detail. But then the the lady on the sofa looks way too bright compared to HDR and DV.

At some point, your going to have to live with whatever picture is provided and concentrate on enjoying your PJ. Otherwise, you’ll be forever looking for a silver bullet that doesn’t exist, tone mapping wise. Unless, of course, you spend 3X the price for an aforementioned processor. Or just buy a JVC NX5 and call it a day. Just kidding.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

CabbageMan said:


> And you have the 115" Akia? I think I am going to go for it. with the stand I am using it'll leave just over 7 inches from the top of the screen to the ceiling. I think that should be good.


Yes the 115" Akia

I like the screen a lot, was not hard to put together, and it accommodated LED's really well.

I think the frame can bend easy though, my GF didnt hold it right when we put it up and I noticed its not flat against the wall, my center bulges out some on the frame and I think that happened when she left it start to fall over. But it didnt seem to really affect the screen. I guess it could also just be the wall is not flat. so the screen can be pushed back on one corner, but I had no real problem getting the PJ pretty well aligned with the screen as it is.


----------



## chrisdu46

What do you think of Grégory's first feedback?

Do you share his feelings: 
"There's also a lot of work to be done in HDR too. I'm quite a fan of Fengmi, but here I have the impression that they released their machine a bit quickly. It's heartbreaking to see the difference in quality between the Dolby Vision management of the Xiaomi C2 and that of the T1."


----------



## GaeIta80

chrisdu46 said:


> What do you think of Grégory's first feedback?
> 
> Do you share his feelings:
> "There's also a lot of work to be done in HDR too. I'm quite a fan of Fengmi, but here I have the impression that they released their machine a bit quickly. It's heartbreaking to see the difference in quality between the Dolby Vision management of the Xiaomi C2 and that of the T1."


I don't have the C2 so can just rely on Gregory’s professional analysis which I believe it's solid. Said so, any DV movies I have tried so far looks amazing and a festival of colours, contrast and blacks. 

I was on the edge between the C2 and the T1 but when I looked at @lattiboy comparison between the 2, my choice went 100% on the T1...it's a wow effect on anything you throw at it so far.

And I don't even have a professional screen...yet!


----------



## Xspearo

Adamgoodapp said:


> It should be compared to other USTs around the same price point which I believe there is still no competition to the T1. At least the problems it has right now is something that can be fixed with a software update.
> 
> To be honest, my last projector was a Optoma hd600x 720p I had back in 2010, looking at all your pictures blows my mind how colorful crisp they are.


Well I thought this would be a direct comp to Hieseine, LG, Samsung just at a lower price oint.


arsenalfc89 said:


> I wouldn’t go by pictures until you see it in person. I actually bought the BenQ and let me tell you the picture quality is exceptional its not even close. It’s also not just the coverage but how things are implemented (including color gamut). There is a reason why it’s extremely highly rated along with the Hisense.The ALPD products can get fairly accurate but not to the level of the BenQ and Hisense. I only got rid of the Benq when I heard about the Chroma (excited about the ALPD 4.0) coming out lol. Again it depends on what you value. If better blacks is more import then yeah ALPD is the way to go. Bit you won’t realize how much you’re giving up until you try the other projectors.


Yea, im with you on this. I currently have the PX1-PRO but ordered a T1 just to see which one I prefer. I'm pretty sure I'm going to just stick with the PX1 though because all the other features (its remote controls all my devices, turns on in like 5 seconds, customizable picture modes). PX1 compared to Optoma P2, the PX1 already exceeded my expectation with color and vibrance. I just feel dark scene are very dark and can lack some detail.


----------



## lattiboy

arsenalfc89 said:


> I wouldn’t go by pictures until you see it in person. I actually bought the BenQ and let me tell you the picture quality is exceptional its not even close. It’s also not just the coverage but how things are implemented (including color gamut). There is a reason why it’s extremely highly rated along with the Hisense.The ALPD products can get fairly accurate but not to the level of the BenQ and Hisense. I only got rid of the Benq when I heard about the Chroma (excited about the ALPD 4.0) coming out lol. Again it depends on what you value. If better blacks is more import then yeah ALPD is the way to go. Bit you won’t realize how much you’re giving up until you try the other projectors.


I’m sorry but that’s absolutely silly talk. I owned the LG HU810P and the Bomaker Polaris 4K (which is closely related to the L9) The T1 is very much their equal in
perceptible color while being substantially better in contrast and especially black level. It also has an astounding built in sound system that rivals a mid range soundbar. All of this while costing substantially less.

The biggest drawback is lack of CMS and the red issue with DV. Both of which could easily be addressed with firmware, but even without a fix I’d take it over anything else near its price 8 days a week.

PS Before everybody gets upset about me mentioning the Bomaker, please check out that thread and see the extensive testing recently done. Its color accuracy is astounding and its gamut isas high as practically any consumer display available.


----------



## eezrider

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Sounds good except the fact I feel some HDR and DV stuff is too dark, like some scenes I feel like are in a dark room and you see highlights only. I try to get the brightness as high as I can go, but it seems its not a brightness issue, just the tone mapping. But lowering the brightness would probably make it worse
> 
> So far though I have not had an issue with reds.
> 
> I have to admit the blacks are black and it looks great, and infact might be more "life like" but when I was watching say Star Wars last night and they were on the Jawas ship it was like a dark room and you saw not much of anything. Seeing other peoples pictures look brighter than mine, I wondered if my screen was upside down or something. No its not I tested, even took plain white paper today just to compare and the screen is just as bright and better contrast.
> 
> There is a view mode in HDR called showy mode I think, and it will increase the brightness of some scenes by bumping up saturation, but it wont help with shadow detail or overall dark areas.
> Raising the brightness up will start making the blacks less black but still not bring in any detail so its not because of brightness, its just how its mapped, and possibly just the content and I am not used to it being that I just started to watch things in HDR/DV.
> 
> 
> 
> IMO Blacks are amazing I cant see any difference in the blacks projected on screen and the areas of the screen without projection. Scenes that are dark with highlights seem to be produced very well without the highlights effecting the surrounding dark areas. I also have not seen any fog/blur. I have seen a lot of horror videos on the Vava Chroma threads about dark scenes and I have not seen or experienced any of that so far on the T1.
> 
> I think a lot of those issues are supposed to be because of MEMC? I have it OFF, but in DV I think it overrides and might have it on, because you lose the option to change it in DV mode, and I noticed more "motion smoothness" than when watching in HDR/SDR.


I want to echo much of what you've said here. So far DV looks great, so too does SDR. The colors out of the box look close to my LG OLED (not as bright, of course). While my Polaris has similar color pop, I was never able to get it dialed in to be close to the colors of the OLED, and HDR mapping varied too much, so I'm delighted. And the blacks and contrast are AMAZING. Ironically, we spent yesterday evening watching Casino Royale, which just had the most beautiful film-like quality. The black bars were just that, black. From a normal viewing position I could not see them. This is on my Vividstorm ALR screen. This addresses the #1 concern I had with the Polaris. I was amused afterwards to realize it was only the HD/SDR version - for some reason I thought it was DV! 

If I have any hesitation, it's that it's not a tad brighter - or rather, that the tone mapping on some material tends to be a little dark (my screen is 0.6 gain, so eats some of the brightness). I think some earlier photos suggested Office mode added a red shift, I found the opposite, that it was actually slightly cooler, or at least slightly less yellow, less film like, but it's usefully brighter, so I might well use that occasionally, especially when there is lots of ambient light. 

One proof point of the color difference with the Polaris was Mad Max Fury Road on HBO Max, which on the Polaris was hideously over saturated, I needed to drop sat to about 30 and then the colors were still off. On the T1, without any adjustment, the movie looked very close to my OLED which I take to be the reference. I watched other material and found the colors generally close to my LG in tone, only sometimes darker - not always. WW 84 (don't ask me!) was a good/bad example, where the opening scenes and all look too dark and dreary. I wonder what magic the LG OLED does that makes everything just look perfect on it - I had no idea that there was this much variability in content until seeing these USTs. 

I am using an XBOX One X for streaming and am interested to know if anyone thinks another streamer would be better - Roku, or Z9X or Shield with VS10 processing perhaps?

Anyway, the T1 is definitely a keeper, the Polaris will be going back to Walmart.

Also, a shout out to Chris Chen at Ruichi electronics - while there were a few delays (they use a freight forwarder that added about 3 days) once DHL actually got it things moved quickly and she kept tabs on the process.


----------



## humax

chrisdu46 said:


> What do you think of Grégory's first feedback?


I was gung-ho on getting the T1, but now I do not know. Gregory says it is not full color Rec.2020, but 90%. He also indicates contrast is below the typical 3000:1 of ALPD. In short, it does not seem to max out ALPD module's potential and Fengmi seems to have dropped the ball with that one. Of course, I will wait for his full review, but so far he does not sound impressed. My personal needs would also include gamma presets (1.8-2.6) and a sdr to hdr converter for older programs, but I could live without them, if contrast-color were maxed out.

I also value Lattiboy's opinion that real world differences are minimal and the T1 has clearly superior color. Between his point of view and Gregory's measuring equipment, I suppose the truth lies somewhere in the middle.

As for other projectors like Hisense and Benq, sure they may be more consumer friendly, but contrast is the founding pillar of a good picture and DLP is exactly the technology that needs it the most. A projector with hazy dark scenes will not do anymore in this day and age.


----------



## indieke2

lattiboy said:


> I’m sorry but that’s absolutely silly talk. I owned the LG HU810P and the Bomaker Polaris 4K (which is closely related to the L9) The T1 is very much their equal in
> perceptible color while being substantially better in contrast and especially black level. It also has an astounding built in sound system that rivals a mid range soundbar. All of this while costing substantially less.
> 
> The biggest drawback is lack of CMS and the red issue with DV. Both of which could easily be addressed with firmware, but even without a fix I’d take it over anything else near its price 8 days a week.
> 
> PS Before everybody gets upset about me mentioning the Bomaker, please check out that thread and see the extensive testing recently done. Its color accuracy is astounding and its gamut isas high as practically any consumer display available.


Makes you have a different opinion from Gregory. Even if his test is not on line,we can feel his preference for the C2.

Maybe he relies too much on accuracy, and you on woaw effect, which could be less realistic.

But I remember in your C2 reports you were also very pleased when you got it, yet now you think the T1 despite his reddish tone in DV is a much better buy......

So I have to follow you either Greg to make a decision soon. I sold my Fengmi C2, due to being not so happy about HDR. Seems like both machines are ok in that matter.


----------



## CabbageMan

eezrider said:


> I want to echo much of what you've said here. So far DV looks great, so too does SDR. The colors out of the box look close to my LG OLED (not as bright, of course). While my Polaris has similar color pop, I was never able to get it dialed in to be close to the colors of the OLED, and HDR mapping varied too much, so I'm delighted. And the blacks and contrast are AMAZING. Ironically, we spent yesterday evening watching Casino Royale, which just had the most beautiful film-like quality. The black bars were just that, black. From a normal viewing position I could not see them. This is on my Vividstorm ALR screen. This addresses the #1 concern I had with the Polaris. I was amused afterwards to realize it was only the HD/SDR version - for some reason I thought it was DV!
> 
> If I have any hesitation, it's that it's not a tad brighter - or rather, that the tone mapping on some material tends to be a little dark (my screen is 0.6 gain, so eats some of the brightness). I think some earlier photos suggested Office mode added a red shift, I found the opposite, that it was actually slightly cooler, or at least slightly less yellow, less film like, but it's usefully brighter, so I might well use that occasionally, especially when there is lots of ambient light.
> 
> One proof point of the color difference with the Polaris was Mad Max Fury Road on HBO Max, which on the Polaris was hideously over saturated, I needed to drop sat to about 30 and then the colors were still off. On the T1, without any adjustment, the movie looked very close to my OLED which I take to be the reference. I watched other material and found the colors generally close to my LG in tone, only sometimes darker - not always. WW 84 (don't ask me!) was a good/bad example, where the opening scenes and all look too dark and dreary. I wonder what magic the LG OLED does that makes everything just look perfect on it - I had no idea that there was this much variability in content until seeing these USTs.
> 
> I am using an XBOX One X for streaming and am interested to know if anyone thinks another streamer would be better - Roku, or Z9X or Shield with VS10 processing perhaps?
> 
> Anyway, the T1 is definitely a keeper, the Polaris will be going back to Walmart.
> 
> Also, a shout out to Chris Chen at Ruichi electronics - while there were a few delays (they use a freight forwarder that added about 3 days) once DHL actually got it things moved quickly and she kept tabs on the process.


I’m excited to get this thing! How is your experience with the Xbox? Hoping the gaming experience is still pretty good.


----------



## arsenalfc89

lattiboy said:


> I’m sorry but that’s absolutely silly talk. I owned the LG HU810P and the Bomaker Polaris 4K (which is closely related to the L9) The T1 is very much their equal in
> perceptible color while being substantially better in contrast and especially black level. It also has an astounding built in sound system that rivals a mid range soundbar. All of this while costing substantially less.
> 
> The biggest drawback is lack of CMS and the red issue with DV. Both of which could easily be addressed with firmware, but even without a fix I’d take it over anything else near its price 8 days a week.
> 
> PS Before everybody gets upset about me mentioning the Bomaker, please check out that thread and see the extensive testing recently done. Its color accuracy is astounding and its gamut isas high as practically any consumer display available.


Again unless you’ve used and seen it in person then comparing is pointless. It’s good that you can compare the Polaris and LG but unless you’ve actually used the Hisense and Benq then your comment falls short (I don’t know if you have). Again I didn’t say the T1 is bad but you are definitely giving up a lot when choosing not to use the Benq and Hisense. For example giving up CMS (critical) and being okay with the red tint is a compromise you’re willing to accept which is fine, but that’s what you accept. Contrast tells a story but how the optics, software, laser usage etc are implemented tells another. If you see the Benq and Hisense in person you’ll understand what I mean. I’m the type that buys multiple projectors to compare before settling on one and honestly ALPD succeeds in blacks (which does play an important role) but that’s about it when comparing the total package. I’m okay with my Chroma (triple laser is legit nice to look at) and I know I’m giving up a lot to keep it, but promises of fixes and possibly a CMS keeps me going. Using a Lumagen does help too lol. Side note Optoma P2 is underrated.


----------



## lattiboy

eezrider said:


> I want to echo much of what you've said here. So far DV looks great, so too does SDR. The colors out of the box look close to my LG OLED (not as bright, of course). While my Polaris has similar color pop, I was never able to get it dialed in to be close to the colors of the OLED, and HDR mapping varied too much, so I'm delighted. And the blacks and contrast are AMAZING. Ironically, we spent yesterday evening watching Casino Royale, which just had the most beautiful film-like quality. The black bars were just that, black. From a normal viewing position I could not see them. This is on my Vividstorm ALR screen. This addresses the #1 concern I had with the Polaris. I was amused afterwards to realize it was only the HD/SDR version - for some reason I thought it was DV!
> 
> If I have any hesitation, it's that it's not a tad brighter - or rather, that the tone mapping on some material tends to be a little dark (my screen is 0.6 gain, so eats some of the brightness). I think some earlier photos suggested Office mode added a red shift, I found the opposite, that it was actually slightly cooler, or at least slightly less yellow, less film like, but it's usefully brighter, so I might well use that occasionally, especially when there is lots of ambient light.
> 
> One proof point of the color difference with the Polaris was Mad Max Fury Road on HBO Max, which on the Polaris was hideously over saturated, I needed to drop sat to about 30 and then the colors were still off. On the T1, without any adjustment, the movie looked very close to my OLED which I take to be the reference. I watched other material and found the colors generally close to my LG in tone, only sometimes darker - not always. WW 84 (don't ask me!) was a good/bad example, where the opening scenes and all look too dark and dreary. I wonder what magic the LG OLED does that makes everything just look perfect on it - I had no idea that there was this much variability in content until seeing these USTs.
> 
> I am using an XBOX One X for streaming and am interested to know if anyone thinks another streamer would be better - Roku, or Z9X or Shield with VS10 processing perhaps?
> 
> Anyway, the T1 is definitely a keeper, the Polaris will be going back to Walmart.
> 
> Also, a shout out to Chris Chen at Ruichi electronics - while there were a few delays (they use a freight forwarder that added about 3 days) once DHL actually got it things moved quickly and she kept tabs on the process.


I have pretty much settled on view mode and Custom image settings with brightness around 52 and contrast between 48 - 54 depending on the material. I don’t have any of it dialed in enough to post full settings, but they are not terribly different than out of the box. I also prefer DV bright mode.

There will always be issues with how different material was mastered and what format it was in (which DV pretty much solves), so regardless of what PJ you have you’ll be doing some fiddling with settings on HDR. In my experience, the T1 nails things closer to what I want than any other device I’ve used. Perhaps I just share a similar aesthetic sensibility with a random Chinese corporation 

I always suggest the Roku ultra to anybody. It’s insanely cheap and in my experience is the fastest, most trouble free media streamer available. The new version supports Dolby Vision and Dolby Atmos and cost 60 bucks if you get it on sale. I just got a PS5 and I think it sucks is a media device. I also have an Nvidia Shield TV I never use as it is so laggy I can’t believe people use it. The new Apple TV 4K Is the best streamer I’ve ever used, but they don’t support bitstream so it’s kind of useless to me who has a Plex server with thousands of DVD and BluRay rips.


----------



## mayaCH

eezrider said:


> I want to echo much of what you've said here...


Thanks! this might be the least "professional" (bad word choice, not native english speaker here, sorry) review, but it answers for me some questions, i still had open and didn't wanted to ask, before i get my t1 in hands my self.
1. you say, no, i interpret it so: in comparison to your lg oled it is good enough. my current tv is older and doesn't even have full array backlight (if i told it otherwise earlier, i checked just now). and i am very happy with the PQ, just the size lacks.
2. in lack of personal experience with screens, i followed the main suggestions and considered a grandviev dy3 (0.4 gain), to achieve good blacks. since i know, that my tv has good blacks, but not even near to an oled, i think now a screen with 0.6-0.8 gain would be good.

this topic is an emotional rollercoaster, where i can't just switch off and get out. and again, thanks to all of you, who takes me to that rollercoaster, no matter negative or positive statements. it is exciting and shortens the time, to proof the decision right or wrong


----------



## Ricoflashback

arsenalfc89 said:


> Again unless you’ve used and seen it in person then comparing is pointless. It’s good that you can compare the Polaris and LG but unless you’ve actually used the Hisense and Benq then your comment falls short (I don’t know if you have). Again I didn’t say the T1 is bad but you are definitely giving up a lot when choosing not to use the Benq and Hisense. For example giving up CMS (critical) and being okay with the red tint is a compromise you’re willing to accept which is fine, but that’s what you accept. Contrast tells a story but how the optics, software, laser usage etc are implemented tells another. If you see the Benq and Hisense in person you’ll understand what I mean. I’m the type that buys multiple projectors to compare before settling on one and honestly ALPD succeeds in blacks (which does play an important role) but that’s about it when comparing the total package. I’m okay with my Chroma (triple laser is legit nice to look at) and I know I’m giving up a lot to keep it, but promises of fixes and possibly a CMS keeps me going. Using a Lumagen does help too lol. Side note Optoma P2 is underrated.


Whoa. Stop right there. If you’re using a Lumagen with all the projectors you’ve cited, you’re not comparing apples to apples. Side note - the madVR Envy Pro is much better than the Lumagen. If I had $6K or more to throw at a processor, that would be my hands down choice. I’d even consider a scope screen since you can find a workaround for baked in, streaming subtitles. But since I stream, exclusively, a 16 x 9 screen works best for me.


----------



## lattiboy

arsenalfc89 said:


> Again unless you’ve used and seen it in person then comparing is pointless. It’s good that you can compare the Polaris and LG but unless you’ve actually used the Hisense and Benq then your comment falls short (I don’t know if you have). Again I didn’t say the T1 is bad but you are definitely giving up a lot when choosing not to use the Benq and Hisense. For example giving up CMS (critical) and being okay with the red tint is a compromise you’re willing to accept which is fine, but that’s what you accept. Contrast tells a story but how the optics, software, laser usage etc are implemented tells another. If you see the Benq and Hisense in person you’ll understand what I mean. I’m the type that buys multiple projectors to compare before settling on one and honestly ALPD succeeds in blacks (which does play an important role) but that’s about it when comparing the total package. I’m okay with my Chroma (triple laser is legit nice to look at) and I know I’m giving up a lot to keep it, but promises of fixes and possibly a CMS keeps me going. Using a Lumagen does help too lol.


I have seen the Hisense L9 in person extensively. It had been properly calibrated too. It’s a good projector, but I just don’t understand what property I was supposed to be seeing? The contrast and black levels are just not there and you still had to switch modes depending on HDR content. 

The BenQ was my other choice, but 3k + tax for a single laser DLP was not really speaking to me. Unless they’ve unlocked the secret of ALPD it’s still going to have questionable black levels, but I’m open to hearing otherwise.

Have you seen the T1 in person?

I have owned 6 projectors in the last 14 months. I too am a psychopath that buys multiple projectors to compare them. I am sitting next to a boxed up Bomaker Polaris and a Xaomi C2. I recently returned the LG HU810P and Hisense L5F. Previously I had the very good Vivitek HK2299 and before that the excellent BenQ 2150ST.


----------



## arsenalfc89

Ricoflashback said:


> Whoa. Stop right there. If you’re using a Lumagen with all the projectors you’ve cited, you’re not comparing apples to apples. Side note - the madVR Envy Pro is much better than the Lumagen. If I had $6K or more to throw at a processor, that would be my hands down choice. I’d even consider a scope screen since you can find a workaround for baked in, streaming subtitles. But since I stream, exclusively, a 16 x 9 screen works best for me.


No I wasn’t using a Lumagen at the time. Mannnn the Envy Pro is $$$$$ lol


----------



## lattiboy

indieke2 said:


> Makes you have a different opinion from Gregory. Even if his test is not on line,we can feel his preference for the C2.
> 
> Maybe he relies too much on accuracy, and you on woaw effect, which could be less realistic.
> 
> But I remember in your C2 reports you were also very pleased when you got it, yet now you think the T1 despite his reddish tone in DV is a much better buy......
> 
> So I have to follow you either Greg to make a decision soon. I sold my Fengmi C2, due to being not so happy about HDR. Seems like both machines are ok in that matter.


It’s difficult because the C2 is clearly a more…. finished product. As Gregory says, they clearly rushed this thing out and missed some stuff. We’ve all mentioned the drawbacks in this thread….. BUT!

The thing is I am unaware of any projector under $10,000 (or over for that matter!) that has the color gamut and contrast and black levels of this one at about $2200. And when you see it in person it simply bowls you over. I’ve rewatched so much stuff on this and been utterly floored. Pacific Rim last night with my wife who was equally impressed at how dark (but visible!) the movie was and how much the colors popped off screen. Awaken is an aimless mess of a “movie”, but also has individual scenes that are absolutely beautiful. Here’s some examples:


----------



## GaeIta80

lattiboy said:


> I have pretty much settled on view mode and Custom image settings with brightness around 52 and contrast between 48 - 54 depending on the material. I don’t have any of it dialed in enough to post full settings, but they are not terribly different than out of the box. I also prefer DV bright mode.
> 
> There will always be issues with how different material was mastered and what format it was in (which DV pretty much solves), so regardless of what PJ you have you’ll be doing some fiddling with settings on HDR. In my experience, the T1 nails things closer to what I want than any other device I’ve used. Perhaps I just share a similar aesthetic sensibility with a random Chinese corporation
> 
> I always suggest the Roku ultra to anybody. It’s insanely cheap and in my experience is the fastest, most trouble free media streamer available. The new version supports Dolby Vision and Dolby Atmos and cost 60 bucks if you get it on sale. I just got a PS5 and I think it sucks is a media device. I also have an Nvidia Shield TV I never use as it is so laggy I can’t believe people use it. The new Apple TV 4K Is the best streamer I’ve ever used, but they don’t support bitstream so it’s kind of useless to me who has a Plex server with thousands of DVD and BluRay rips.


Hey mate, "Picture Quality Enhancement" and "Auto Audio-Visual Adjustment" ON or OFF? 

What's the impact on PQ?

Cheers!


----------



## arsenalfc89

lattiboy said:


> I have seen the Hisense L9 in person extensively. It had been properly calibrated too. It’s a good projector, but I just don’t understand what property I was supposed to be seeing? The contrast and black levels are just not there and you still had to switch modes depending on HDR content.
> 
> The BenQ was my other choice, but 3k + tax for a single laser DLP was not really speaking to me. Unless they’ve unlocked the secret of ALPD it’s still going to have questionable black levels, but I’m open to hearing otherwise.
> 
> Have you seen the T1 in person?
> 
> I have owned 6 projectors in the last 14 months. I too am a psychopath that buys multiple projectors to compare them. I am sitting next to a boxed up Bomaker Polaris and a Xaomi C2. I recently returned the LG HU810P and Hisense L5F. Previously I had the very good Vivitek HK2299 and before that the excellent BenQ 2150ST.


No I haven’t bought the T1 yet. If it’s anything like it’s cousins then my expectations will be somewhat similar to the Chroma (both their gamut are even eerily similar) minus the red tint. .That’s why I want to buy the new Hisense first to do another comparison then the T1 pending further reviews. Yes the Benq 2150St is one of my past favorites, good choice.


----------



## hsy541

How is this compare to optoma cinema p2, right now the optoma p2 is about the same price as fengmi t1. What would you guys think?


----------



## Brajesh

Can one of you guys, with a screen 120" or larger, please post a large picture of the electronic focus pattern? I'm wondering if this varies significantly unit to unit. On mine, it does bother me, as I mentioned not being as focused on the top edges.


----------



## aerodynamics

Now I'm considering the C2 based on Gregory's findings. This is not to discount the opinions of everyone else who owns a unit but for me contrast/black levels and input lag are most important. If the C2 were priced significantly lower, it would be an immediate buy but they are both around the same cost which makes no sense.


----------



## lattiboy

There is a


arsenalfc89 said:


> No I haven’t bought the T1 yet. If it’s anything like it’s cousins then my expectations will be somewhat similar to the Chroma (both their gamut are even eerily similar) minus the red tint. .That’s why I want to buy the new Hisense first to do another comparison then the T1 pending further reviews. Yes the Benq 2150St is one of my past favorites, good choice.


I know a user in this thread had the Chroma and returned it for a T1, but it escapes me. He may be worth reaching out to. 

The new Hisense is very interesting, but initial impressions from Brian (projector head) said black levels were the same as the L9. If that’s the case I don’t think it’s terribly competitive, but we’ll have to wait and see.

Also, I apologize if I was being overly argumentative. This is all just what’s important to the person watching!


----------



## lattiboy

GaeIta80 said:


> Hey mate, "Picture Quality Enhancement" and "Auto Audio-Visual Adjustment" ON or OFF?
> 
> What's the impact on PQ?
> 
> Cheers!


I turned both off, but I don’t even know if they do anything. Because you have to back out to the home menu to get to them, it is not easy to do a comparison. I think it may be like dynamic contrast, just a ghost setting.


----------



## lattiboy

Brajesh said:


> Can one of you guys, with a screen 120" or larger, please post a large picture of the electronic focus pattern? I'm wondering if this varies significantly unit to unit. On mine, it does bother me, as I mentioned not being as focused on the top edges.


I would offer to help, but my screen is not perfectly flat on the wall and my floor is sloped, so I have to kind of settle for a not fully focused edge situation. I can individually dial in the top and bottom, but no projector I’ve had has been perfectly focused all around. Garage conversion home theaters are a compromise  I cannot notice from my viewing distance of about 16 feet for the 120” screen, even with games that have HUDs.

I used to intentionally defocus my long throw projectors just slightly because it helped things seem a little more “film like” and probably am used to it by now.


----------



## Brajesh

lattiboy said:


> I know a user in this thread had the Chroma and returned it for a T1, but it escapes me. He may be worth reaching out to.


That was me. Chroma suffers from one bad issue, and it's ghosting that's noticeable & distracting especially in dark scenes, but also in backgrounds like clouds. A couple of others have reported it in their Facebook group. Colors are great, but inaccurate, over-saturated in HDR. VAVA improved this w/a firmware update, but more work is needed. Blacks aren't up to Xiaomi/Fengmi's standards.

If you want a tri-laser, T1 is the UST to get. In my case, I really like T1, but may end up going back to Wemax A300 paired w/HDFury. Have more hours of testing, comparing to do before deciding, but the accurate colors, sharpness, brightness & 3D support on A300 are making it take the lead for me. If I never tried HDFury, I'd have kept the T1, but that device made A300 even better. The only negatives w/A300 to me are slight judder w/24p content & not taking advantage of a wide color gamut (but, again with HDFury and actual viewing enjoyment in practice, it doesn't seem like a big deal).


----------



## GaeIta80

Brajesh said:


> Can one of you guys, with a screen 120" or larger, please post a large picture of the electronic focus pattern? I'm wondering if this varies significantly unit to unit. On mine, it does bother me, as I mentioned not being as focused on the top edges.


Here you go mate


----------



## arsenalfc89

lattiboy said:


> There is a
> 
> 
> I know a user in this thread had the Chroma and returned it for a T1, but it escapes me. He may be worth reaching out to.
> 
> The new Hisense is very interesting, but initial impressions from Brian (projector head) said black levels were the same as the L9. If that’s the case I don’t think it’s terribly competitive, but we’ll have to wait and see.
> 
> Also, I apologize if I was being overly argumentative. This is all just what’s important to the person watching!


It’s all good no hard feelings at all. Well said, it’s always what is important to the person watching. Some like contrast, some like a bright experience, some like vivid etc. 😀


----------



## lattiboy

arsenalfc89 said:


> It’s all good no hard feelings at all. Well said, it’s always what is important to the person watching. Some like contrast, some like a bright experience, some like vivid etc. 😀


Also well said, and I think my general argument for the T1. No other package I’m aware of brings all of these things into one box. There are better color coverage (Hisense, Bomaker, Samsung), better contrast (C2), better brightness (Wemax and some Optoma), black levels (Epson), but you have to substantially sacrifice one of those to get there. And when you get to JVC at 3-10x the price you’re giving up a lot of brightness when projecting at larger color gamuts.

While the T1 may not have the best of anything, it’s got the most good of anything, and by a large margin at a compartively unbelievable price.

Now that is a bad sales slogan!


----------



## ngcoolman

kraine said:


> Lattiboy sorry but your Xiaomi C2 picture doesn’t match with this projector in real life. In fact after measurements and calibration the C2 have more brightness and contrast than the T1. I have post the calibration results on the blog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 22/04/zjsh.jpg - Visionneuse Zupimages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.zupimages.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the picture of the Xiaomi laser Cinéma 2 wich handle HDR and DV signals much easily for the end user than the Fengmi :


Are you Gregory who did all these excellent reviews? Really appreciate your work.

I see your calibration results. If I didn't misunderstand, you calibrated result is based on lamp brightness at silent mode. And at this mode, you are able to achieve 1477 lm and 2975:1 contrast ratio. Am I correct?

I see that other modes achieve vastly different brightness. Movie (2223 lm), office (2521 lm), night (1355 lm), silent (1477 lm). From my experience with T1, different mode will push the color temperature towards different direction. For example, Movie will be more warmish while office more coolish. So I would imagine the same calibrated setting for silent mode will unlikely achieve the highest color accuracy in other modes. I suppose for most of the T1 owners like myself, we would also want to know what the best the two brighter modes (I.e. Movie and office) can achieve after calibration and what will be their measurements and the custom setting to achieve those results.

Many thanks again. I look forward to your full review and your custom settings after calibration, cheers.


----------



## ngcoolman

GaeIta80 said:


> Guys, could you share your "Custom" image set up for HDR content? Thanks!


brightness 53, contrast 49, saturation 50, sharpness 0, tone 50, color temp = 924 red, 1024 green, 924 blue, dynamic contrast = off.


----------



## ngcoolman

Ricoflashback said:


> Boy, it really depends on the content, scene by scene. Now I understand why Lumagen and madVR Labs charge so much for their processors. The Witcher example in SDR looks better to me with a lot more shadow detail. But then the the lady on the sofa looks way too bright compared to HDR and DV.
> 
> At some point, your going to have to live with whatever picture is provided and concentrate on enjoying your PJ. Otherwise, you’ll be forever looking for a silver bullet that doesn’t exist, tone mapping wise. Unless, of course, you spend 3X the price for an aforementioned processor. Or just buy a JVC NX5 and call it a day. Just kidding.


Actually, for fair comparison, I used my dslr and fix the shutter speed and aperture. But in reality, human eyes still have much higher dynamic range and making the sdr slightly over exposed while the hdr images look slightly darker than my actual perception. If you can trust my words, dv will consistently give you the most cinematic experience. Sdr will be useful if the room has some ambient light and still want to a decent looking PQ. But the experience is much less cinematic and it is like watching a standard tv content on a traditional TV. Having said that, T1 actually is very suitable for typical sdr tv content such as sport and news because of its high brightness.


----------



## GaeIta80

ngcoolman said:


> Actually, for fair comparison, I used my dslr and fix the shutter speed and aperture. But in reality, human eyes still have much higher dynamic range and making the sdr slightly over exposed while the hdr images look slightly darker than my actual perception. If you can trust my words, dv will consistently give you the most cinematic experience. Sdr will be useful if the room has some ambient light and still want to a decent looking PQ. But the experience is much less cinematic and it is like watching a standard tv content on a traditional TV. Having said that, T1 actually is very suitable for typical sdr tv content such as sport and news because of its high brightness.


Hey mate, "Picture Quality Enhancement" and "Auto Audio-Visual Adjustment" ON or OFF?


----------



## ngcoolman

CabbageMan said:


> Can you guys suggest the best movies to watch to show this off once it comes?


Other have already provided their excellent suggestions. I would like to add four more for your reference.

1. Cruella (Disney+, show high contrast)
2. The Greatest Showman (Disney+, show excellent audio)
3. Mulan (Disney+, show vibrant color)
4. The Witcher (Netflix, a lot of dark scene to show off shadow details)


----------



## ngcoolman

GaeIta80 said:


> Hey mate, "Picture Quality Enhancement" and "Auto Audio-Visual Adjustment" ON or OFF?


All off for me


----------



## Xspearo

arsenalfc89 said:


> Again unless you’ve used and seen it in person then comparing is pointless. It’s good that you can compare the Polaris and LG but unless you’ve actually used the Hisense and Benq then your comment falls short (I don’t know if you have). Again I didn’t say the T1 is bad but you are definitely giving up a lot when choosing not to use the Benq and Hisense. For example giving up CMS (critical) and being okay with the red tint is a compromise you’re willing to accept which is fine, but that’s what you accept. Contrast tells a story but how the optics, software, laser usage etc are implemented tells another. If you see the Benq and Hisense in person you’ll understand what I mean. I’m the type that buys multiple projectors to compare before settling on one and honestly ALPD succeeds in blacks (which does play an important role) but that’s about it when comparing the total package. I’m okay with my Chroma (triple laser is legit nice to look at) and I know I’m giving up a lot to keep it, but promises of fixes and possibly a CMS keeps me going. Using a Lumagen does help too lol. Side note Optoma P2 is underrated.


Yea, I pretty much do the same, I buy multiple of things and keep which one I am happy with. Hence that is why I have PX1 and ordered a T1 and will keep whichever I think is better. I also tot Also you correct, The Optoma P2 is a great UST (that is what I previously had).


----------



## ngcoolman

One extra things I want to share. A good thing with DV for me is that its consistency. I know we all talk about the red tint issue. But to me this happens rare enough that I can easily overlook. On the other hand, different from sdr and hdr where I keep trying to change a setting here and there to get the ”perfect” picture. Dv actually let me forget about all these things and just enjoy the content. In my xbx, the Netflix app will force everything to dv and I used to hate it on my sony x900f because non-dv content will look washout in color. But this is not the case for my T1. A lot of japanese anime still show vivid color even forced to DV. And I feel like dv help me to get a good calibration (like filmmaker mode in some new tv) for those content. This makes me consider to get an apple tv to just force everything on dv. 

My wish list on dv if fengmi is release a new firmware
1. Solve the red tint issue 
2. Add a super bright mode on top of bright and dark mode which can add even more brightness for viewing with ambient light.


----------



## rjyap

humax said:


> My personal needs would also include gamma presets (1.8-2.6) and a sdr to hdr converter for older programs, but I could live without them, if contrast-color were maxed out.


What you need is a HTPC running madVR. I believe red push and lack of CMS could be corrected using HTPC. Recently there's a shootout between various JVC laser, lamp and other projector. The finding is except black level, colors seems to be quite match between projector for bright scene using madVR. Also general opinion is madVR DTM is better than JVC build in DTM which is consider one of the best. Only issue if most of your content is from netflix or disney+ streaming then this wouldn't work unless you use a 4K input card and turn it into DIY poor man ENVY which is another topic.


----------



## hsy541

@Xspearo I'm thinking about Optoma p2 vs fengmi t1, they are almost same price. which one do you think is better?


----------



## Xspearo

hsy541 said:


> @Xspearo I'm thinking about Optoma p2 vs fengmi t1, they are almost same price. which one do you think is better?


If colors on T1 are vibrant (which they look to be) like they are on the PX1-Pro, I would chose the T1. The Optoma P2 is definitely a great UST, but I think the triple laser technology has the edge for color. I should have a T1 in hand on the 1st of Feb according to DHL tracker, so I can update you later with my thoughts.


----------



## Xspearo

ngcoolman said:


> One extra things I want to share. A good thing with DV for me is that its consistency. I know we all talk about the red tint issue. But to me this happens rare enough that I can easily overlook. On the other hand, different from sdr and hdr where I keep trying to change a setting here and there to get the ”perfect” picture. Dv actually let me forget about all these things and just enjoy the content. In my xbx, the Netflix app will force everything to dv and I used to hate it on my sony x900f because non-dv content will look washout in color. But this is not the case for my T1. A lot of japanese anime still show vivid color even forced to DV. And I feel like dv help me to get a good calibration (like filmmaker mode in some new tv) for those content. This makes me consider to get an apple tv to just force everything on dv.
> 
> My wish list on dv if fengmi is release a new firmware
> 1. Solve the red tint issue
> 2. Add a super bright mode on top of bright and dark mode which can add even more brightness for viewing with ambient light.


I would say instead of adding modes, just allow customization of every mode/preset.

I think we all should email them ([email protected]) and give this suggestion. The more request they receive might make it happen. ("the squeaky wheel gets the oil") 🤷‍♂️ lol


----------



## arsenalfc89

Xspearo said:


> Yea, I pretty much do the same, I buy multiple of things and keep which one I am happy with. Hence that is why I have PX1 and ordered a T1 and will keep whichever I think is better. I also tot Also you correct, The Optoma P2 is a great UST (that is what I previously had).


Lol the life of always seeking the best. But definitely interested to see your thoughts when you get it.


----------



## DeanM3

Seems like a lot of activity here lately. I’ve got plenty of time on my T1, and also have thousands of hours on a Xiaomi ALPD3.0 unit and two generations of JVC, and a LG C1 oled. The one thing you can’t measure with tools with the overall wow factor or the T1. The image has an incredible pop to it, colors look a amazing, and I honestly haven’t looked back. No idea how the scientific measurements will come back, but I doubt someone here would regret getting a C2 or T1 or anything on the same price/performance scale at this level. The only thing that matters is that this thing constantly impresses no matter what content I throw at it. It’s unfortunate that essentially of all us here work off impressions of other users subjective opinions or an extremely small amount of reviewers who cover these Chinese UST’s. Being able to evaluate them side by side at a dealer would put a lot of these endless debates to rest. Now it’s time to get back to enjoying some content!


----------



## Brajesh

Thanks @GaeIta80 for posting your T1's focus pattern. Mine's the same w/the top left & right edge not as focused, especially the left. More pronounced at 140-150".


----------



## ngcoolman

Xspearo said:


> I would say instead of adding modes, just allow customization of every mode/preset.
> 
> I think we all should email them ([email protected]) and give this suggestion. The more request they receive might make it happen. ("the squeaky wheel gets the oil") 🤷‍♂️ lol


I will provide that feedback too for non-dv mode. But for dv mode, I am not sure I actually want more customization. I thought the purpose of dv is to display exactly what the creator intend to show us. In this case, why would I want to adjust the picture settings myself to defeat the purpose? 

Currently, t1 dv works so well for me when there is no ambient light. When there is ambient light, the overall picture is slightly too dark. I think dolby is aware of this and suggest dviq as a solution. From my understanding, dviq requires a light sensor to adjust the pic dynamically for the room lighting condition. I don't think t1 have a light sensor, but I think fengmi can easily add more modes with slightly different tone mapping that are suitable for diff lighting condition.


----------



## zoomx2

Super happy so far in terms of brightness, contrast, colour. I am using it for daily TV to replace my 10 years old plasma. After adjusting the custom temperatures and mode I got a very clear sharp pictures. As for the price of this unit, I can't complain about it.


----------



## GaeIta80

Brajesh said:


> Thanks @GaeIta80 for posting your T1's focus pattern. Mine's the same w/the top left & right edge not as focused, especially the left. More pronounced at 140-150".


Hey mate, in person all looks in focus and you can always adjust right & left focus...remember that I am projecting a 125-130" image on an uneven white wall that is wavy on the top hence not possible to judge


----------



## jakechoy

DeanM3 said:


> Seems like a lot of activity here lately. I’ve got plenty of time on my T1, and also have thousands of hours on a Xiaomi ALPD3.0 unit and two generations of JVC, and a LG C1 oled. The one thing you can’t measure with tools with the overall wow factor or the T1. The image has an incredible pop to it, colors look a amazing, and I honestly haven’t looked back. No idea how the scientific measurements will come back, but I doubt someone here would regret getting a C2 or T1 or anything on the same price/performance scale at this level. The only thing that matters is that this thing constantly impresses no matter what content I throw at it. It’s unfortunate that essentially of all us here work off impressions of other users subjective opinions or an extremely small amount of reviewers who cover these Chinese UST’s. Being able to evaluate them side by side at a dealer would put a lot of these endless debates to rest. Now it’s time to get back to enjoying some content!


Ditto, I started from the on 3 gun RGB Sony projector for my laser discs thru multitudes of DLP and LCDs from Infocus X1 thru SHARP XGA..landing on the Xiaomi S1 3 yrs back -> went to see tri-laser JMGO U2 and was only slightly impressed by it; but with the Xiaomi C2..completely blown away that even after seeing the T1 after; was still happy to keep the C2 given the incremental improvement T1 had over it. Really can't go wrong with either the C2 or T1 as they leapfrog ahead so much in PQ. There's really no competition at this price range. For anyone looking to pickup a UST, these are the two best options due to Xiaomi's ADLP tech. As others have pointed out, no mist, great contrast and color vs previous generations.

For me, getting the C2 before Xmas made it such a great xmas gift and it has been putting on daily hours of usage since unboxing. Matrix 4 was a treat on it and Silent Sea looked great with all the dark scenes. The convenience of DV cannot be overstated. Only thing to adjust is Bright or Dark mode. I am just waiting for Dune to come back on HBOMax to re-rewatch the mountains of sand in DV.

BTW - for all that are hoping for more DV modes, unfortunately, even on Xiaomi's latest P1/Q1 TVs, the DV menu only has dark and bright modes. I believe this is a DV standard?


----------



## lattiboy

Confirmed you can force DV out for everything on the Roku Ultra. Go to settings>system>advanced system settings>display and pick HDR always on (I also do refresh rate match, but that’s a preference).

Some shots of non-DV content in “dark” DV mode and view brightness. It isn’t always perfect, but it is damn good most the time:


HDR









DV










HDR









DV


----------



## abaintor

rjyap said:


> What you need is a HTPC running madVR. I believe red push and lack of CMS could be corrected using HTPC. Recently there's a shootout between various JVC laser, lamp and other projector. The finding is except black level, colors seems to be quite match between projector for bright scene using madVR. Also general opinion is madVR DTM is better than JVC build in DTM which is consider one of the best. Only issue if most of your content is from netflix or disney+ streaming then this wouldn't work unless you use a 4K input card and turn it into DIY poor man ENVY which is another topic.


You can’t get dolby vision with a htpc nor hdr10+
You can apply DTM with madvr only on static HDR10. The reason is that there is no dolby vision decoding solution in open source. Besides the painful pc softwares configuration and playback. 
So Madvr is not a solution.
However HDFury may help while preserving dv but I saw a post saying the opposite

At this state the real problem for me is the lack of memc in dolby vision and I doubt that a firmware update will resolve this (the c2 has the same limitation). 

And if I had the money I would not take a jvc either : the color gamut is weak, it is heavy and noisy and it does not support dv. The black levels are the only advantage


----------



## GaeIta80

lattiboy said:


> Confirmed you can force DV out for everything on the Roku Ultra. Go to settings>system>advanced system settings>display and pick HDR always on (I also do refresh rate match, but that’s a preference).
> 
> Some shots of non-DV content in “dark” DV mode and view brightness. It isn’t always perfect, but it is damn good most the time:
> 
> 
> HDR
> View attachment 3231417
> 
> 
> DV
> View attachment 3231418
> 
> 
> 
> HDR
> View attachment 3231415
> 
> 
> DV
> View attachment 3231416


I have the same "always HDR' option on the 4k Max but didn't try it so far...Will test today.

So far I am preferring DV View/Dark for the night (testing Office/Bright in the afternoon with a bit of ambient light) on any other SDR or HDR settings...it just WOW you


----------



## GaeIta80

And this is in the morning, living room, windows open on same sad white wall...imagine that with a proper ALR screen


----------



## abaintor

lattiboy said:


> I always suggest the Roku ultra to anybody. It’s insanely cheap and in my experience is the fastest, most trouble free media streamer available. The new version supports Dolby Vision and Dolby Atmos and cost 60 bucks if you get it on sale. I just got a PS5 and I think it sucks is a media device. I also have an Nvidia Shield TV I never use as it is so laggy I can’t believe people use it. The new Apple TV 4K Is the best streamer I’ve ever used, but they don’t support bitstream so it’s kind of useless to me who has a Plex server with thousands of DVD and BluRay rips.


Hi,
I don't know about the roku but as I owned several devices here is what I can say :

Nvidia shield is a very good choice : don't take the tube version but the pro version from 2019. The tube is 32 bits and laggy as you pointed out. Otherwise it is very powerful : handles dolby vision, and has a IA filter that gives a more crispy picture. You can install all the streaming services (which support DV/HDR) and Kodi version with DV support too. The only drawback (as any other device) is the lack of support of full dolby vision (does not decode full enhancement layer), although very few movies carry it.
Amazon Fire TV max 4K : cheaper and nearly as good as the shield. Except that you can't get dolby atmos passthrough with Kodi (although streaming services support atmos)
Dune HD / Zidoo Z9X: does not support streaming services (at least not in 4K+HDR). But handle most video formats and can do tone mapping from SDR <-> HDR or HDR <-> dolby vision. It also supports 3D formats (unlike the shield/fire tv). The most complete solution for video formats. Has the same limitation on full DV support as the shield/fire tv
PC with Madvr : a very good tone mapping solution for SDR and HDR. Does not support dolby vision, reserved to experts/geeks and not user friendly (you have to install MPC-HC, configure madvr...)
Other devices based on linux with full DV support : such as the Ugoos AM6B. Like DuneHD except that it handles full dolby vision support. But less user friendly and might be buggy


----------



## Malaveae

First thanks everyone for sharing their experience with T1.
I´m a noob regarding projectors and just come from a Xgimi Horizon Pro that I recently sent back. My family regret this and I myself have a little pain but I was not convinced regarding contrast and black levels. After researching, the Fengmi C2 suddenly appears, then the Xiaomi C2 and end up following the Fengmi T1. I believe this is the short list at this moment in time, as the best perfomance value to achieve contrast/black levels and DV is a plus. (also the A300+Hdfury could be a choice, but I do not want an extra HW).
The other UST are not available here in Europe and/or price is above +3000 (Hisense/Vava/Samsung, etc).
The following is* only my personal opinion* to compare my criteria regarding these 2 Laser TV. They are mostly checking all the boxes with a small margin favoring the Xiaomi C2 on criteria that are not to relevant for me (Starting time and gaming).

If you already have one of this two, just relax, get some popcorns and enjoy!


Xiaomi C2Fengmi T1CommentsContrast++Based on preliminary results from Gregory, they are in the 3000:1 rangeBlack Levels++They are similar and range difference is not to much, and also depends on screen selection gain and light environment.Reliability+I gave the Xiaomi due to known ALPD 4.0 RB+, Heat management, Noise level, 25000 hours lifespanService Support--Both Out of Europe (and from China)Color Gamut+Fengmi offers better choice here, even with the reddish DV (hoping it can be FW fixed), it also offers a wide color gamut and is future proof contentBig Picture +150" 4K+/-+/-Both can reach the 4k big picture quality with some flaws for sharpness at corners.Operating System--Chineese oriented but can be set to english.
Not capable to root to Android TV.
A Global version could be expected with Android TV this year +Q2 2022CMS (Color Management System)--Not to friendly and with limit options for professional or fine tuned calibrationNvidia Shield, Fire TV, Apple TV, Roku compatible++I will be using it with Fire Stick MaxStart-up Time+It shall not be an issue, but a benchmark shall be less than 6 seconds. Comparing to my former Xgimi Horizon pro and a old 1981 Sony KP-5040Gaming (lag input)+I have not seen to much feedback about Fengmi T1 on this, however I´m not a gamerMotion Compensation (MEMC)==I favored the cinematic approach (hate soap opera effect on movies) but both unit provides it which can be used mainly for sport eventsPrice==Both are in the +2200 EUR range


----------



## GaeIta80

Malaveae said:


> First thanks everyone for sharing their experience with T1.
> I´m a noob regarding projectors and just come from a Xgimi Horizon Pro that I recently sent back. My family regret this and I myself have a little pain but I was not convinced regarding contrast and black levels. After researching, the Fengmi C2 suddenly appears, then the Xiaomi C2 and end up following the Fengmi T1. I believe this is the short list at this moment in time, as the best perfomance value to achieve contrast/black levels and DV is a plus. (also the A300+Hdfury could be a choice, but I do not want an extra HW).
> The other UST are not available here in Europe and/or price is above +3000 (Hisense/Vava/Samsung, etc).
> The following is* only my personal opinion* to compare my criteria regarding these 2 Laser TV. They are mostly checking all the boxes with a small margin favoring the Xiaomi C2 on criteria that are not to relevant for me (Starting time and gaming).
> 
> If you already have one of this two, just relax, get some popcorns and enjoy!
> 
> 
> Xiaomi C2Fengmi T1CommentsContrast++Based on preliminary results from Gregory, they are in the 3000:1 rangeBlack Levels++They are similar and range difference is not to much, and also depends on screen selection gain and light environment.Reliability+I gave the Xiaomi due to known ALPD 4.0 RB+, Heat management, Noise level, 25000 hours lifespanService Support--Both Out of Europe (and from China)Color Gamut+Fengmi offers better choice here, even with the reddish DV (hoping it can be FW fixed), it also offers a wide color gamut and is future proof contentBig Picture +150" 4K+/-+/-Both can reach the 4k big picture quality with some flaws for sharpness at corners.Operating System--Chineese oriented but can be set to english.
> Not capable to root to Andriod TV.
> A Global version could be expected with Andriod TV this year +Q2 2022CMS (Color Management System)--Not to friendly and with limit options for professional or fine tuned calibrationNvidia Shield, Fire TV, Apple TV, Roku compatible++I will be using it with Fire Stick MaxStart-up Time+It shall not be an issue, but a benchmark shall be less than 6 seconds. Comparing to my former Xgimi Horizon pro and a old 1981 Sony KP-5040Gaming (lag input)+I have not seen to much feedback about Fengmi T1 on this, however I´m not a gamerMotion Compensation (MEMC)==I favored the cinematic approach (hate soap opera effect on movies) but both unit provides it which can be used mainly for sport eventsPrice==Both are in the +2200 EUR range


Nice benchmark, actually Greg just confirmed that T1 Game Mode has a 43ms input lag (vs C2 35.5ms) which is very similar in terms of single player gaming experience 😉


----------



## mirkmito

abaintor said:


> Hi,
> I don't know about the roku but as I owned several devices here is what I can say :
> 
> Nvidia shield is a very good choice : don't take the tube version but the pro version from 2019. The tube is 32 bits and laggy as you pointed out. Otherwise it is very powerful : handles dolby vision, and has a IA filter that gives a more crispy picture. You can install all the streaming services (which support DV/HDR) and Kodi version with DV support too. The only drawback (as any other device) is the lack of support of full dolby vision (does not decode full enhancement layer), although very few movies carry it.
> Amazon Fire TV max 4K : cheaper and nearly as good as the shield. Except that you can't get dolby atmos passthrough with Kodi (although streaming services support atmos)
> Dune HD / Zidoo Z9X: does not support streaming services (at least not in 4K+HDR). But handle most video formats and can do tone mapping from SDR <-> HDR or HDR <-> dolby vision. It also supports 3D formats (unlike the shield/fire tv). The most complete solution for video formats. Has the same limitation on full DV support as the shield/fire tv
> PC with Madvr : a very good tone mapping solution for SDR and HDR. Does not support dolby vision, reserved to experts/geeks and not user friendly (you have to install MPC-HC, configure madvr...)
> Other devices based on linux with full DV support : such as the Ugoos AM6B. Like DuneHD except that it handles full dolby vision support. But less user friendly and might be buggy


Clone oppo 😉


----------



## tnaik4

The T1 is my main option so far but that 89% bt2020 coverage is holding me back, isnt it advertised as full bt2020 ?? Its rgb lasers so why not 100%, maybe a measurment error or it might measure better in different picture mode, but definitely need more info about that.


----------



## chrisdu46

abaintor said:


> Hi,
> I don't know about the roku but as I owned several devices here is what I can say :
> 
> Nvidia shield is a very good choice : don't take the tube version but the pro version from 2019. The tube is 32 bits and laggy as you pointed out. Otherwise it is very powerful : handles dolby vision, and has a IA filter that gives a more crispy picture. You can install all the streaming services (which support DV/HDR) and Kodi version with DV support too. The only drawback (as any other device) is the lack of support of full dolby vision (does not decode full enhancement layer), although very few movies carry it.
> Amazon Fire TV max 4K : cheaper and nearly as good as the shield. Except that you can't get dolby atmos passthrough with Kodi (although streaming services support atmos)
> Dune HD / Zidoo Z9X: does not support streaming services (at least not in 4K+HDR). But handle most video formats and can do tone mapping from SDR <-> HDR or HDR <-> dolby vision. It also supports 3D formats (unlike the shield/fire tv). The most complete solution for video formats. Has the same limitation on full DV support as the shield/fire tv
> PC with Madvr : a very good tone mapping solution for SDR and HDR. Does not support dolby vision, reserved to experts/geeks and not user friendly (you have to install MPC-HC, configure madvr...)
> Other devices based on linux with full DV support : such as the Ugoos AM6B. Like DuneHD except that it handles full dolby vision support. But less user friendly and might be buggy


Hi,
Also don't forget the Zappiti Neo which with the Fengmi T1 should be just fantastic. Right now I have the Zappitti Neo with an Optoma CinemaX P2 and the gap is just huge compared to the previous Zappiti One 4K model! I have to receive my T1 around February 10th and I can't wait to see the result of the Zappiti Neo / Fengmi T1 combo


----------



## Tanizhq

abaintor said:


> Hi,
> I don't know about the roku but as I owned several devices here is what I can say :
> 
> Nvidia shield is a very good choice : don't take the tube version but the pro version from 2019. The tube is 32 bits and laggy as you pointed out. Otherwise it is very powerful : handles dolby vision, and has a IA filter that gives a more crispy picture. You can install all the streaming services (which support DV/HDR) and Kodi version with DV support too. The only drawback (as any other device) is the lack of support of full dolby vision (does not decode full enhancement layer), although very few movies carry it.
> Amazon Fire TV max 4K : cheaper and nearly as good as the shield. Except that you can't get dolby atmos passthrough with Kodi (although streaming services support atmos)
> Dune HD / Zidoo Z9X: does not support streaming services (at least not in 4K+HDR). But handle most video formats and can do tone mapping from SDR <-> HDR or HDR <-> dolby vision. It also supports 3D formats (unlike the shield/fire tv). The most complete solution for video formats. Has the same limitation on full DV support as the shield/fire tv
> PC with Madvr : a very good tone mapping solution for SDR and HDR. Does not support dolby vision, reserved to experts/geeks and not user friendly (you have to install MPC-HC, configure madvr...)
> Other devices based on linux with full DV support : such as the Ugoos AM6B. Like DuneHD except that it handles full dolby vision support. But less user friendly and might be buggy


Imo the Apple TV 4K is still the best, it supports Dolby Vision through all its streaming services, and you can get Doldby Atmos Passthrough for your Plex library if you use Infuse which is only like £9.99 a year or something. Also lightning quick compared to my FireStick, except for Prime Video lol.


----------



## GaeIta80

chrisdu46 said:


> Hi,
> Also don't forget the Zappiti Neo which with the Fengmi T1 should be just fantastic. Right now I have the Zappitti Neo with an Optoma CinemaX P2 and the gap is just huge compared to the previous Zappiti One 4K model! I have to receive my T1 around February 10th and I can't wait to see the result of the Zappiti Neo / Fengmi T1 combo


Never heard before, what's the plus vs other sticks or external streaming box?


----------



## pionoor

Brajesh said:


> Thanks @GaeIta80 for posting your T1's focus pattern. Mine's the same w/the top left & right edge not as focused, especially the left. More pronounced at 140-150".


I have exactly the same issue, I thought my wall is not perfectly flat. Could it be an issue with the T1 itself?


----------



## GaeIta80

pionoor said:


> I have exactly the same issue, I thought my wall is not perfectly flat. Could it be an issue with the T1 itself?


Don't think so, my wall is not flat for sure and with some "amateur" painting with irregular spots...


----------



## abaintor

Tanizhq said:


> Imo the Apple TV 4K is still the best, it supports Dolby Vision through all its streaming services, and you can get Doldby Atmos Passthrough for your Plex library if you use Infuse which is only like £9.99 a year or something. Also lightning quick compared to my FireStick, except for Prime Video lol.


Sorry I forgot it : for streaming services this is exactly the same rendering than the shield or fire tv. However you can’t playback your Blu-ray 4k rips in dolby vision, unlike the shield or fire tv. 
About the zappiti, a recent review put it below the zidoo/dune.


----------



## Tanizhq

abaintor said:


> Sorry I forgot it : for streaming services this is exactly the same rendering than the shield or fire tv. However you can’t playback your Blu-ray 4k rips in dolby vision, unlike the shield or fire tv.
> About the zappiti, a recent review put it below the zidoo/dune.


As I said with Infuse you can get Dolby Vision and Dolby Atmos both working on the Apple TV for anything uploaded to your Plex Server


----------



## chrisdu46

[/DEVIS]


abaintor said:


> A propos du zappiti, une revue récente l'a mis en dessous du zidoo/dune
> [/DEVIS]
> Peux-tu me dire quelle revue stp ?


----------



## humax

pionoor said:


> I have exactly the same issue, I thought my wall is not perfectly flat. Could it be an issue with the T1 itself?



Guys again and at the risk of sounding tiresome, all house walls have small bumps and all pull down screens have tiny waves/ripples, even you cannot see them. You need to try a well tensioned, as well as perfectly leveled to the wall, ALR, before ascertaining with confidence the T1 is the culprit of softness/uneven focus.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Tanizhq said:


> As I said with Infuse you can get Dolby Vision and Dolby Atmos both working on the Apple TV for anything uploaded to your Plex Server


I found the Apple streamer to be confusing and a general PITA. No backlit remote like the Nvidia Shield Pro. The real deal killer is that Apple won’t let you use your direct streaming subscriptions with their player. You MUST subscribe through Apple “channels” which is ridiculous. No thanks.


----------



## abaintor

chrisdu46 said:


> [/DEVIS]


Désolé c'était par rapport au modèle précédent (le One 4K), le neo a la même puce que le zidoo z9x ou dune hd real vision et apparemment l'image est meilleure sur le zappiti pour le coup

Mistake : the latest zappiti neo seems to be better than the zidoo/dune (crisper picture)


----------



## lattiboy

tnaik4 said:


> The T1 is my main option so far but that 89% bt2020 coverage is holding me back, isnt it advertised as full bt2020 ?? Its rgb lasers so why not 100%, maybe a measurment error or it might measure better in different picture mode, but definitely need more info about that.


As somebody obsessed with wide color gamut, I have to say the T1 is just as vivid as other projectors that go well over 100%. From what I can tell, most of the shortcoming is in particular shades of green. Having watched a huge amount of nature documentaries I have not noticed any lack of color fidelity. In fact it’s almost purpose built for that as the contrast and black levels are so good it really makes the colors pop more.

I also watched Guardians of the Galaxy volume two, which is one of the handful of movies that uses the full BT 2020 space, and it looked spectacular. There are literally three or four movies that actually use 100% of BT 2020, and most of them only in a handful of scenes. The amount of infrastructure that has to be updated on the production side and the time it will take for most displays to output BT2020 correctly means you probably won’t see widespread use of it for quite a few years.

People need to realize that for both audio and video, measurements do not tell the whole story. If measurements really could perfectly dictate perceived performance, everybody would simply make the same devices aiming for the exact same measurements. There would not be different image modes on displays. You would just have one, and it would measure perfectly and everyone would love it.

I am a long time audio guy, and the new wave of “objectivist” audiophiless are absolutely the worst. They obsess over minuscule differences in distortion as if the human ear can even begin to differentiate. If you enjoy something that measures poorly you’re a sucker who has brand bias and you’ve tricked yourself into enjoying a sub optimally engineered piece of gear. Barf!

Anyway, here is some color porn from the T1


----------



## Tanizhq

Ricoflashback said:


> Apple won’t let you use your direct streaming subscriptions with their player. You MUST subscribe through Apple “channels” which is ridiculous.


Out of interest, what do you mean by this? I am not sure I fully understand


----------



## Ricoflashback

Tanizhq said:


> Out of interest, what do you mean by this? I am not sure I fully understand


Example: probably more for the United States but I subscribe to "Paramount Plus" streaming services. I paid DIRECTLY through Paramount's website. Apple TV will NOT allow me to add this streaming application to the Apple streamer even though I have a paid subscription. You MUST pay through Apple's "Channels" - - in other words, pay directly to Apple. Same for many of other streaming services except for Netflix and Amazon.


----------



## Ricoflashback

lattiboy said:


> As somebody obsessed with wide color gamut, I have to say the T1 is just as vivid as other projectors that go well over 100%. From what I can tell, most of the shortcoming is in particular shades of green. Having watched a huge amount of nature documentaries I have not noticed any lack of color fidelity. In fact it’s almost purpose built for that as the contrast and black levels are so good it really makes the colors pop more.
> 
> I also watched Guardians of the Galaxy volume two, which is one of the handful of movies that uses the full BT 2020 space, and it looked spectacular. There are literally three or four movies that actually use 100% of BT 2020, and most of them only in a handful of scenes. The amount of infrastructure that has to be updated on the production side and the time it will take for most displays to output BT2020 correctly means you probably won’t see widespread use of it for quite a few years.
> 
> People need to realize that for both audio and video measurements do not tell the whole story. If measurements really could perfectly dictate perceived performance, everybody would simply make the same devices aiming for the exact same measurements. There would not be different image modes on displays. You would just have one, and it would measure perfectly and everyone would love it.
> 
> I am a long time audio guy, and the new wave of “objectivist” audiophiless are absolutely the worst. They obsess over minuscule differences in distortion as if the human ear can even begin to differentiate. If you enjoy something that measures poorly you’re a sucker who has brand bias and you’ve tricked yourself into enjoying a sub optimally engineered piece of gear. Barf!
> 
> Anyway, here is some color porn from the T1
> 
> View attachment 3231621
> 
> View attachment 3231624


Too bright, too vivid, too much color. Black levels are too deep. Where's the mist and gas that I'm so accustomed to with a DLP projector? How about measurements? Just because you like what you see doesn't mean that you've got an accurate projector. Until I see these numbers, quantified, against the competition - - I can't recommend the Fengmi T1.


----------



## Brajesh

pionoor said:


> I have exactly the same issue, I thought my wall is not perfectly flat. Could it be an issue with the T1 itself?


Think it's a tri-laser issue. Focus, especially at 120"+, isn't as good as single laser UST's.


----------



## 3sprit

A saturated color is not a better color: to take advantage of BT2020 we need BT2020 films 😉


----------



## DeanM3

The Fengmi email support has been quite responsive. We should all email them our concerns and we should get improvements in the firmware.


----------



## Xspearo

DeanM3 said:


> The Fengmi email support has been quite responsive. We should all email them our concerns and we should get improvements in the firmware.
> View attachment 3231633


Specifically what tho so we are all on same page and they can receive enough feedback on these suggestions.


----------



## Ricoflashback

3sprit said:


> A saturated color is not a better color: to take advantage of BT2020 we need BT2020 films 😉


If you go down that rathole, you might add no fake 4K/HDR and better Dolby Vision and Dolby Atmos mastering. Unfortunately, what we want is not what we get. 

Besides, how many folks can really tell the difference between 89% BT 2020 coverage versus 100% BT 2020 coverage? It's a theoretical number that doesn't have any practical use in the real world. Once you get to a certain percentage, it's all relative.


----------



## humax

lattiboy said:


> As somebody obsessed with wide color gamut, I have to say the T1 is just as vivid as other projectors that go well over 100%. From what I can tell, most of the shortcoming is in particular shades of green. Having watched a huge amount of nature documentaries I have not noticed any lack of color fidelity. In fact it’s almost purpose built for that as the contrast and black levels are so good it really makes the colors pop more.



I have no reason to doubt your opinion and what your eyes tell you that this is a very good projector, especially for the money. However, with a little effort, it could have been better. If this hit 100% of Rec.2020 and more than 3000:1 and had accurate DV management, Fengmi would have knocked it out of the park and would be an absolute no brainer. I am still inclined to buy this, but my wings have been clipped by Gregory's comments. Furthermore, at the rate these Chinese models come out, imagine a supercharged version of this being released in a few months, probably by Xiaomi this time (they already got it right with the C2). I have been procrastinating for too long, simply because I am not a rich guy and I need the best value for my hard-earned money. I have my current lamp-based UST for six years now and it will be another six years at least to replace my current choice. In short, I need to get this decision right and not be stuck with a projector I am not fully happy with.


----------



## 3sprit

Ricoflashback said:


> Inoltre, quante persone possono davvero dire la differenza tra la copertura BT 2020 dell'89% e la BT 2020 del 100%? È un numero teorico che non ha alcun uso pratico nel mondo reale. Una volta raggiunta una certa percentuale, è tutto relativo.


----------



## tnaik4

humax said:


> I have no reason to doubt your opinion and what your eyes tell you that this is a very good projector, especially for the money. However, with a little effort, it could have been better. If this hit 100% of Rec.2020 and more than 3000:1 and had accurate DV management, Fengmi would have knocked it out of the park and would be an absolute no brainer. I am still inclined to buy this, but my wings have been clipped by Gregory's comments. Furthermore, at the rate these Chinese models come out, imagine a supercharged version of this being released in a few months, probably by Xiaomi this time (they already got it right with the C2). I have been procrastinating for too long, simply because I am not a rich guy and I need the best value for my hard-earned money. I have my current lamp-based UST for six years now and it will be another six years at least to replace my current choice. In short, I need to get this decision right and not be stuck with a projector I am not fully happy with.


Exactly this, i think pretty soon we ll have a competitor release something with all the features we r asking for, specifically for me is full hdmi 2.1 with support of 4k/120hz for gaming, and of course full cms/greyscale settings add to that laser slider with everything the T1 already does and we get ourselves the ultimate machine


----------



## Ricoflashback

humax said:


> I have no reason to doubt your opinion and what your eyes tell you that this is a very good projector, especially for the money. However, with a little effort, it could have been better. If this hit 100% of Rec.2020 and more than 3000:1 and had accurate DV management, Fengmi would have knocked it out of the park and would be an absolute no brainer. I am still inclined to buy this, but my wings have been clipped by Gregory's comments. Furthermore, at the rate these Chinese models come out, imagine a supercharged version of this being released in a few months, probably by Xiaomi this time (they already got it right with the C2). I have been procrastinating for too long, simply because I am not a rich guy and I need the best value for my hard-earned money. I have my current lamp-based UST for six years now and it will be another six years at least to replace my current choice. In short, I need to get this decision right and not be stuck with a projector I am not fully happy with.


Gregory - - "The Wing Clipper."


----------



## kraine

ngcoolman said:


> Are you Gregory who did all these excellent reviews? Really appreciate your work.
> 
> I see your calibration results. If I didn't misunderstand, you calibrated result is based on lamp brightness at silent mode. And at this mode, you are able to achieve 1477 lm and 2975:1 contrast ratio. Am I correct?
> 
> I see that other modes achieve vastly different brightness. Movie (2223 lm), office (2521 lm), night (1355 lm), silent (1477 lm). From my experience with T1, different mode will push the color temperature towards different direction. For example, Movie will be more warmish while office more coolish. So I would imagine the same calibrated setting for silent mode will unlikely achieve the highest color accuracy in other modes. I suppose for most of the T1 owners like myself, we would also want to know what the best the two brighter modes (I.e. Movie and office) can achieve after calibration and what will be their measurements and the custom setting to achieve those results.
> 
> Many thanks again. I look forward to your full review and your custom settings after calibration, cheers.


Hi ngcoolman, yes it's me and yes the calibrated are in silent modes and 1477 lumens and 2975:1 contrast ratio.

I can only confirm your observations on my measurements of all image modes, the best results are obtained with sometimes the silent mode and other times the view mode. The other UST projectors I have tested so far have never done this to me. Without a measurement probe, the T1 is difficult to understand.


----------



## DeanM3

I’ve asked for 4 things:


Fix the dv red push issue
More user modes
Adjustable color temp on game mode
Ability to use line out with the internal speaker ( to add a sub )


----------



## Xspearo

DeanM3 said:


> I’ve asked for 4 things:
> 
> 
> Fix the dv red push issue
> More user modes
> Adjustable color temp on game mode
> Ability to use line out with the internal speaker ( to add a sub )


5. Add customization to the presets/modes 🙏


----------



## zoomx2

lattiboy said:


> As somebody obsessed with wide color gamut, I have to say the T1 is just as vivid as other projectors that go well over 100%. From what I can tell, most of the shortcoming is in particular shades of green. Having watched a huge amount of nature documentaries I have not noticed any lack of color fidelity. In fact it’s almost purpose built for that as the contrast and black levels are so good it really makes the colors pop more.
> 
> I also watched Guardians of the Galaxy volume two, which is one of the handful of movies that uses the full BT 2020 space, and it looked spectacular. There are literally three or four movies that actually use 100% of BT 2020, and most of them only in a handful of scenes. The amount of infrastructure that has to be updated on the production side and the time it will take for most displays to output BT2020 correctly means you probably won’t see widespread use of it for quite a few years.
> 
> People need to realize that for both audio and video, measurements do not tell the whole story. If measurements really could perfectly dictate perceived performance, everybody would simply make the same devices aiming for the exact same measurements. There would not be different image modes on displays. You would just have one, and it would measure perfectly and everyone would love it.
> 
> I am a long time audio guy, and the new wave of “objectivist” audiophiless are absolutely the worst. They obsess over minuscule differences in distortion as if the human ear can even begin to differentiate. If you enjoy something that measures poorly you’re a sucker who has brand bias and you’ve tricked yourself into enjoying a sub optimally engineered piece of gear. Barf!
> 
> Anyway, here is some color porn from the T1
> 
> View attachment 3231621
> 
> View attachment 3231624


Hi lattiboy, would you mind share the settings for those pictures?


----------



## Tanizhq

Ricoflashback said:


> Too bright, too vivid, too much color. Black levels are too deep. Where's the mist and gas that I'm so accustomed to with a DLP projector? How about measurements? Just because you like what you see doesn't mean that you've got an accurate projector. Until I see these numbers, quantified, against the competition - - I can't recommend the Fengmi T1.


looooool, people actually think stuff like this. Like I wonder if you did a test between 90% or 100% BT.2020, most people wouldn't even be able to tell the difference 99% of the time.


----------



## Tanizhq

humax said:


> I have no reason to doubt your opinion and what your eyes tell you that this is a very good projector, especially for the money. However, with a little effort, it could have been better. If this hit 100% of Rec.2020 and more than 3000:1 and had accurate DV management, Fengmi would have knocked it out of the park and would be an absolute no brainer. I am still inclined to buy this, but my wings have been clipped by Gregory's comments. Furthermore, at the rate these Chinese models come out, imagine a supercharged version of this being released in a few months, probably by Xiaomi this time (they already got it right with the C2). I have been procrastinating for too long, simply because I am not a rich guy and I need the best value for my hard-earned money. I have my current lamp-based UST for six years now and it will be another six years at least to replace my current choice. In short, I need to get this decision right and not be stuck with a projector I am not fully happy with.


Ofcourse not telling you what to do, but with this mentality and the frequency of releases, seems you will be waiting forever for the next best thing because it will always just be a few months away.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Tanizhq said:


> Ofcourse not telling you what to do, but with this mentality and the frequency of releases, seems you will be waiting forever for the next best thing because it will always just be a few months away.


I don't see how anyone could go wrong with the C2 or the T1. Great bang for the buck! There will always be something better around the corner. But you lose a lot time waiting for the next, best, greatest thing. And, these Chinese projectors are so much easier on the wallet - - it's not like dropping $3.5K or $6K for something like a JVC NX5. If I can get five years out of my electronics, I'm happy. By then, I get the upgrade urge or there are so many advancements that you want to buy something new.

Heck, with the way the Chinese roll out products, you could buy a C2 now for $2K and replace it in three or four years and still be way ahead of the game.


----------



## Brajesh

Spent about 4 hours testing T1 today, and comparing w/Wemax A300, and have decided to go back to A300. Wish I could cherry pick what each does well & mold it into a new super UST . Had expected going into this that I'd end up keeping the T1 for most content, and getting a cheap secondary 1080p front projector for 3D.

It has been an unexpected UST journey for me. Started w/the original Xiaomi 4K 2+ years ago, then to A300, to VAVA Chroma, to T1, and now back to A300. The wider, vivid color range w/Chroma & T1 impress, but are also overcooked, and you miss the color accuracy & more natural flesh tones. T1 is noticeably better than Chroma on blacks, but A300 holds its own vs. T1. A300's focus uniformity and sharpness are noticeably better than T1 & Chroma's. What's I'll miss is the T1's MEMC, which on low setting I think does a good job smoothing out 24p content, addressing judder. With Chroma, MEMC introduces soap opera effect. The biggest issue w/Chroma is ghosting, which is really noticeable in dark scenes or clouds.

Have considered Xiaomi C2, but don't think it's going to be much of an 'upgrade' over A300, especially as it doesn't support 3D, and I have HDFury VRROOM that really boosts A300's performance. Using Zidoo Z9X and being able to enjoy DV content, and even apply Zidoo's Dolby VS10 engine to non-DV content, routed via HDFury to A300 is a great combo. Plus, keeping 3D support. The only negative is dealing w/some judder w/MEMC missing from A300.

Hope you all enjoy your T1's... it's an excellent projector that will only improve w/firmware updates. Lot of solid options with UST's... really comes down to preferences, priorities for each of us. I need to stop being addicted to this section of the forum & being tempted by new UST's  !


----------



## tnaik4

I know many are saying ppl cant tell the diff between 90% bt2020 and 100% bt2020, and its correct to some extent if u leave it uncalibrated.
Once u do a 3dlut to do a total color calibration, the software will shrink the gamut even more to hit accurately the lower saturation points, the 90% bt2020 will become in the 83-85% bt2020 calibrated, i have a 90% bt2020 projector and after 3dlut the result is always the same, so thats why some of us would prefer 100% bt2020 because then even after 3dlut it ll stay at or very very close to 100%.
And believe if u are watching content that uses full bt2020 u can tell the difference between 85% and 100% calibrated gamut.
And the big thing here is that 3dlut is the only way to calibrate the T1, if it had a cms one could try to do it manually as good as possible but sadly it doesnt.


----------



## Sunbox2408

abaintor said:


> Hi,
> I don't know about the roku but as I owned several devices here is what I can say :
> 
> Nvidia shield is a very good choice : don't take the tube version but the pro version from 2019. The tube is 32 bits and laggy as you pointed out. Otherwise it is very powerful : handles dolby vision, and has a IA filter that gives a more crispy picture. You can install all the streaming services (which support DV/HDR) and Kodi version with DV support too. The only drawback (as any other device) is the lack of support of full dolby vision (does not decode full enhancement layer), although very few movies carry it.
> Amazon Fire TV max 4K : cheaper and nearly as good as the shield. Except that you can't get dolby atmos passthrough with Kodi (although streaming services support atmos)
> Dune HD / Zidoo Z9X: does not support streaming services (at least not in 4K+HDR). But handle most video formats and can do tone mapping from SDR <-> HDR or HDR <-> dolby vision. It also supports 3D formats (unlike the shield/fire tv). The most complete solution for video formats. Has the same limitation on full DV support as the shield/fire tv
> PC with Madvr : a very good tone mapping solution for SDR and HDR. Does not support dolby vision, reserved to experts/geeks and not user friendly (you have to install MPC-HC, configure madvr...)
> Other devices based on linux with full DV support : such as the Ugoos AM6B. Like DuneHD except that it handles full dolby vision support. But less user friendly and might be buggy


Great summary, I have the tube version of the shield and it was indeed laggy till I had on wifi. Since connecting to a direct ethernet port it's been a breeze. It has the exact same processor as the pro. The only benefit that I saw with pro was of being able to run a plex server and those 64 bit games. I didn't have neither just wanted it to do AI upscaling, DV and Android tv. I think it works well for that purpose imo.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Brajesh said:


> Spent about 4 hours testing T1 today, and comparing w/Wemax A300, and have decided to go back to A300. Wish I could cherry pick each does well & mold it into a new super UST . Had expected going into this that I'd end up keeping the T1 for most content, and getting a cheap secondary 1080p front projector for 3D.
> 
> It has been an unexpected UST journey for me. Started w/the original Xiaomi 4K 2+ years ago, then to A300, to VAVA Chroma, to T1, and now back to A300. The wider, vivid color range w/Chroma & T1 impress, but are also overcooked, and you miss the color accuracy & more natural flesh tones. T1 is noticeably better than Chroma on blacks, but A300 holds its own vs. T1. A300's focus uniformity and sharpness are noticeably better than T1 & Chroma's. What's I'll miss is the T1's MEMC, which on low setting I think does a good job smoothing out 24p content, addressing judder. With Chroma, MEMC introduces soap opera effect. The biggest issue w/Chroma is ghosting, which is really noticeable in dark scenes or clouds.
> 
> Have considered Xiaomi C2, but don't think it's going to be much of an 'upgrade' over A300, especially as it doesn't support 3D, and I have HDFury VRROOM that really boosts A300's performance. Using Zidoo Z9X and being able to enjoy DV content, and even apply Zidoo's Dolby VS10 engine to non-DV content, routed via HDFury to A300 is a great combo. Plus, keeping 3D support. The only negative is dealing w/some judder w/MEMC missing from A300.
> 
> Hope you all enjoy your T1's... it's an excellent projector that will only improve w/firmware updates. Lot of solid options with UST's... really comes down to preferences, priorities for each of us. I need to stop being addicted to this section of the forum & being tempted by new UST's  !


Interesting that you went back to the A300. From the specs, it looks like it has better contrast. And, 3D capability is nice, as well. I've read about coil whine and over heating issues with the A300. Is that true? I'm not sure of the lumens with the A300 as I've seen various numbers thrown out there. But I'm not sure how much of a difference that makes versus the T1. No DV (red push noted but can be turned off with the right streamer) and better speakers with the T1. No 3D with the T1. A300 ALPD 3.0 for the A300. Single or dual laser? And, no MEMC with the A300.

Like I said before - - I don't think you can go wrong with any of these Chinese projectors. The biggest thing I notice with ALPD 4.0 technology (and maybe ALPD 3.0?) is the lack of gas and mist plus much better blacks. When I watch Chris Majestic's UST reviews or anyone else's UST reports, they always seem to rate the blacks as a 6 on a scale of 10 for most of the other, non-ALPD PJ's. That's a huge factor in my buying criteria. Sure, 100% color accuracy and a better CMS and picture customizations would be appreciated but beauty is skin deep and ugly is down to the bone. And that's where I place the gas and mist plus poor black levels with other, non-ALPD UST Projectors.


----------



## Ricoflashback

tnaik4 said:


> I know many are saying ppl cant tell the diff between 90% bt2020 and 100% bt2020, and its correct to some extent if u leave it uncalibrated.
> Once u do a 3dlut to do a total color calibration, the software will shrink the gamut even more to hit accurately the lower saturation points, the 90% bt2020 will become in the 83-85% bt2020 calibrated, i have a 90% bt2020 projector and after 3dlut the result is always the same, so thats why some of us would prefer 100% bt2020 because then even after 3dlut it ll stay at or very very close to 100%.
> And believe if u are watching content that uses full bt2020 u can tell the difference between 85% and 100% calibrated gamut.
> And the big thing here is that 3dlut is the only way to calibrate the T1, if it had a cms one could try to do it manually as good as possible but sadly it doesnt.


I appreciate the information you provide but once you start talking about calibration - - it's "check please" for me. I've never been a calibration guy and don't really care whether my picture is 100% accurate or not. It's what looks good to my eyes that counts. Some folks differ and I appreciate everyone's point of view. 

I'm looking for the best "out of the box" performance, period, with the ability to do some tweaking. And, much better black levels without the gas, mist and fog of non-ALPD UST Projectors. The latter being a deal killer for me as there is no perfect projector at this price point (and maybe no perfect projector at any price point) as we'll all have to decide what's most important us when buying a projector. But the gas, mist and fog is present in a majority of the content we watch with non-ALPD PJ's and especially when you get to darker scenes with more black levels. I also like good shadow detail and colors with "pop." So - - all good on the UST PJ front with lots of good options depending on what suits your fancy.


----------



## MJ DOOM

Any T1 owners with a Hdfury device? If so, could somebody post comparison pics between LLDV and native DV.


----------



## Brajesh

@Ricoflashback, A300 has slightly better contrast & brightness vs. T1. My unit does not have coil whine nor over-heating issues. Gregory measured ~2500 lumens, but recall reading somewhere that's it's actually quite a bit higher than that? Don't have any equipment to test.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Brajesh said:


> @Ricoflashback, A300 has slightly better contrast & brightness vs. T1. My unit does not have coil whine nor over-heating issues. Gregory measured ~2500 lumens, but recall reading somewhere that's it's actually quite a bit higher than that? Don't have any equipment to test.


Is the A300 a single or dual laser? Also - uniformity and edge to edge wise, it seems like single lasers have zero convergence issues and a sharp, pristine picture in all four corners. With the international model of the T1 being introduced soon, I bet you can get a heckuva deal on an A300, C2 or even T1 later this year.

P.S. - Whoops - blue, two color laser. As long as this projector gets rid of the fog and mist while maintaining great contrast and black levels - it will be very high on my list this summer when we move. I really don’t need a sound system or a DV picture. I’m quite happy with SDR and HDR. But maybe the international T1 model will solve some of the DV problems.


----------



## Brajesh

A300 is single laser AFAIK.


----------



## mirkmito

Tried the T1 from @GaeIta80 and in DV with bluray has a lot of stuttering .... 24p does not handle them well .... it is urgent to report to Formovie MEMC implementation for DV. 
@Brajesh HDR10+ does not read it ...


----------



## Ricoflashback

Just saw Gregory’s excellent review of the Xiaomi Laser Cinema 2. The Chrome browser does the best translation. I was getting a little confused with the Fengmi C2 versus the Xiaomi Laser Cinema 2. At any rate - how would you rate the Xiaomi Laser Cinema 2 versus the Formovie Fengmi T1? Sorry for any confusion on my part. With the naming nomenclature, I feel like it’s a test in college.


----------



## Brajesh

Thanks @mirkmito for confirming HDR10+ is not (presently) supported by T1 as advertised.


----------



## mirkmito

Brajesh said:


> Thanks @mirkmito for confirming HDR10+ is not (presently) supported by T1 as advertised.


@Brajesh If they have indicated the all hdr10 + support, surely they will release the update ... The rush to present it caused some forgetfulness ... Serious lack of MEMC for DV (bluray - 24p) makes viewing very bad ... images full of stuttering


----------



## Brajesh

Anyone in the U.S. want a T1 unit, barely used, at $200 minus actual cost, please PM me before I put it up on eBay next week .


----------



## GaeIta80

Red push on T1 is a false myth...95% of all the DV content I have tested looks stunning red wise and colour wise

Thanks @mirkmito for all the calibration testing and amazing results checked together 🙂💥


----------



## humax

Ricoflashback said:


> how would you rate the Xiaomi Laser Cinema 2 versus the Formovie Fengmi T1?



Xiaomi has 200:1 more contrast than the T1 and does DV right. It is likely a bit sharper than the T1 and has an even lower input lag. The T1 has a wider color gamut and a high quality speaker system, but it is less color accurate than the C2. Gregory seems to prefer the C2 to the T1 and suggests he will not be keeping the latter as his personal unit.


----------



## Ricoflashback

humax said:


> Xiaomi has 200:1 more contrast than the T1 and does DV right. It is likely a bit sharper than the T1 and has an even lower input lag. The T1 has a wider color gamut and a high quality speaker system, but it is less color accurate than the C2. Gregory seems to prefer the C2 to the T1 and suggests he will not be keeping the latter as his personal unit.


Much thanks, Humax. It is greatly appreciated. It’s interesting that the Xiaomi Cinema 2 is a dual laser with ALPD 3.0 and the Fengmi T1 is a tri-laser with ALPD 4.0. They should be very close in specs and I don’t know why the DV implementation is different between the two projectors. I believe the Xiaomi Cinema 2 is priced higher than the Fengmi T1. Maybe the X-C2 is more mature with more firmware updates. Or, the difference between a dual versus a tri-laser? Looking forward to more impressions from T1 owners as they receive their PJ’s.


----------



## ngcoolman

kraine said:


> Hi ngcoolman, yes it's me and yes the calibrated are in silent modes and 1477 lumens and 2975:1 contrast ratio.
> 
> I can only confirm your observations on my measurements of all image modes, the best results are obtained with sometimes the silent mode and other times the view mode. The other UST projectors I have tested so far have never done this to me. Without a measurement probe, the T1 is difficult to understand.


Thank you for confirming my observation. You mentioned best results are obtained with sometimes the silent mode and other times the view mode. Would you mind sharing the settings and measurements for the view mode at your final review? It may not achieve the best color accuracy compared to silent mode. But I think for most of the T1 users in this thread, view mode is the goto mode for us as it can get to ~2200 lumens compared to ~1500 lumens for silent mode. 

Also, I know many are considering between Xiaomi C2 and T1 as they both have DV support. Although C2 also have 4 lamp mode: view, office, night and silent, your review mentioned that all 4 achieve same brightness of 2186 lumens for C2 after calibration. This is why I think it will be nice if we can compared T1 calibrated in view mode to C2 because both of them will be around 2200 lumens.


----------



## ngcoolman

mirkmito said:


> Tried the T1 from @GaeIta80 and in DV with bluray has a lot of stuttering .... 24p does not handle them well .... it is urgent to report to Formovie MEMC implementation for DV.
> @Brajesh HDR10+ does not read it ...


This is something we need to report to Formovie. Basically, we want MEMC option in DV mode too, right?


----------



## ngcoolman

humax said:


> Xiaomi has 200:1 more contrast than the T1 and does DV right. It is likely a bit sharper than the T1 and has an even lower input lag. The T1 has a wider color gamut and a high quality speaker system, but it is less color accurate than the C2. Gregory seems to prefer the C2 to the T1 and suggests he will not be keeping the latter as his personal unit.


It is a good summary. But I wish to get some clarification from other C2 owners @lattiboy @jakechoy. I believe C2 DV also doesn't allow MEMC. It seems to me T1 and C2 menu are exactly the same for DV. The only parameters that can affect image are lamp brightness (view/office/night/silent) and advanced (bright/dark). So, the two shall work very similarly in that regard.

Regarding color accuracy, I think Gregory calibrated settings are only applicable to SDR and HDR but not DV. As mentioned above, there is not really any image setting you can change at DV to get it more color accurate. I believe Gregory review doesn't have any measurement about DV color accuracy, I suppose in order to get such measurements, the test patterns for measurements will also need to be in DV.

Also, both C2 and T1 are not that color accurate out of the box for SDR and HDR. For C2, Gregory review shows that apart from movie mode which achieve 6577k color temp with 6.84 delta E (but with the contrast somehow drop to 2364:1). All other modes are over 8k temperature with 13+ delta E. For T1, we don't have measurement yet and waiting for Gregory review. But most of us will agree it is probably not that accurate just like C2. One interesting observation from several T1 owners is that if we try to force our streamers to output SDR and HDR at DV, the picture seems to look better and more natural. This makes me believe DV is the most accurate mode out of the box and I wish some professional can do measurement and confirm it. 

For the low input lag mode (game mode), both units need to allow user to change its image setting to be useful. The C2 color measurement for game mode has color temperature at 10209k and delta E 22.11. Anyone will some requirement for color accuracy will find it difficult to game in this mode. But gaming in another mode will instantly increase the lag to 150.8ms for C2 and whatever numbers we get for T1 in Gregory's final review.


----------



## GaeIta80

View attachment 3231881

View attachment 3231886



ngcoolman said:


> This is something we need to report to Formovie. Basically, we want MEMC option in DV mode too, right?


Yes, but this is the case only for DV 24p/B-ray discs and I guess C2 might have the same issue with 24p content...for streaming content in DV via Netflix, Prime or Disney + all run smoothly, even without MEMC


----------



## mcusman2012

Very immature move by fengmi. They should have calibrated and corrected their product image and display before launching. These chinese pJ selling candy is DV. T1 focus has issues on the corners as per few people. Even T1 HDR needs working as per gregory. They should better release update otherwise 👎.


----------



## ngcoolman

GaeIta80 said:


> View attachment 3231881
> 
> View attachment 3231886
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, but this is the case only for DV 24p/B-ray discs and I guess C2 might have the same issue with 24p content...for streaming content in DV via Netflix, Prime or Disney + all run smoothly, even without MEMC


Thank you for your info. No wonder I am not able to reproduce the stutter problem myself as all DV contents I view I are from streaming service like Netflix, Disney + and Apple TV. 

By the way, you have a fire stick 4k max, right? Are you able to force SDR/HDR to output as DV? If so, do you find the output pleasing?

My XSX has no such option but XSX netflix app is kind of doing this and I find even non-DV content look better than when viewing them in SDR/HDR alone (I verify it by turning off DV to get HDR10 and then turn off HDR10 to get SDR from XSX settings). Unfortunately, XSX disney+ doesn't have the same feature. I know Roku Ultra and apple tv can force DV output, but I want to get an android based system so that I can install some Asian streaming service apk which is not available on apple tv and roku ecosystem. 

If you can verify my speculation (i.e. fire tv can convert everything to dv and non-dv sdr/hdr content will look good on it), I probably will get it and install all my streaming service on it and then can just use DV as default mode of viewing every content. Cheers.


----------



## lattiboy

Highly highly _*HIGHLY*_ recommend forcing DV out on your media player (Roku Ultra, AppleTV, Nvidia, and Firestick Max should all have this option for HDR always on) and setting office brightness and dark mode. Gregory said it helped eliminate red push and he was right! Thanks man!

Really enjoying it and haven’t run into any issues with SDR or HDR content looking wacky. I changed it to bright mode for Dune because that movie has incredibly dark sections that are difficult to see in the dark mode.

This is a real torture scene from The Life Aquatic. It’s very difficult to capture with a camera, but the shadow detail from the pitch black sky to the singers skin to the tuxedo is incredibly well done with these settings. Weirdly, this mode makes photography much more difficult as there is a distinct yellow cast in pictures that does not exist when watching. I have attempted to correct for this, but it is difficult on an iPhone. In real life his shirt is more brilliant and the red hats are a much deeper red.

SDR content with DV forced:


----------



## lattiboy

Additionally DV does an incredible job with black and white. Check out all these gray tones in this scene from The French Dispatch


----------



## GaeIta80

ngcoolman said:


> Thank you for your info. No wonder I am not able to reproduce the stutter problem myself as all DV contents I view I are from streaming service like Netflix, Disney + and Apple TV.
> 
> By the way, you have a fire stick 4k max, right? Are you able to force SDR/HDR to output as DV? If so, do you find the output pleasing?
> 
> My XSX has no such option but XSX netflix app is kind of doing this and I find even non-DV content look better than when viewing them in SDR/HDR alone (I verify it by turning off DV to get HDR10 and then turn off HDR10 to get SDR from XSX settings). Unfortunately, XSX disney+ doesn't have the same feature. I know Roku Ultra and apple tv can force DV output, but I want to get an android based system so that I can install some Asian streaming service apk which is not available on apple tv and roku ecosystem.
> 
> If you can verify my speculation (i.e. fire tv can convert everything to dv and non-dv sdr/hdr content will look good on it), I probably will get it and install all my streaming service on it and then can just use DV as default mode of viewing every content. Cheers.


Yes, I do confirm. Firestick 4k Max forces any content in DV selecting "HDR always on" and with Office/Dark or Bright works a magic 🎩


----------



## mirkmito

ngcoolman said:


> This is something we need to report to Formovie. Basically, we want MEMC option in DV mode too, right?


@ngcoolman I confirm...DV + MEMC. Otherwise the bluray are unwatchable


----------



## lattiboy

OK, I had just enough to drink to do something pretty stupid. I have HBO Max and a standard HDR rip of The Suicide Squad. So, I’m going to show you the same scene three ways and I think it really shows why the T1 can bowl you over.

HDR displayed normally from a 18GB x265 4K rip:










Same content with DV office/dark forced:










Proper DV from HBO Max:











In person the last shot is really pretty amazing. The red dress is absolutely stunning, like the most dazzling, deep red I’ve ever seen, but not blown out or tacky. This scene is at about 42:40 if you wanna check it out.

The HDR with forced DV looks a lot like a darker version of the DV on the Xaomi C2:









This also shows a very interesting color change in the background of the C2. Does anybody have a DV capable reference screen to see which is correct?


----------



## tovaxxx

This is from my OLED SONY 77A84J.


----------



## kraine




----------



## tovaxxx

Xiaomi C2 is too much blue and T1 is washed out.


----------



## lattiboy

kraine said:


> View attachment 3232051


I updated the T1 picture as I had accidentally decreased contrast to avoid blowing out highlights. IPhone photo editing sucks!


----------



## lattiboy

tovaxxx said:


> Xiaomi C2 is too much blue and T1 is washed out.





tovaxxx said:


> Xiaomi C2 is too much blue and T1 is washed out.


I uploaded a bad photo and didn’t realize until after I had posted. I put up one that’s closer to real life, but still constrained by camera. It’s for sure less contrastt than the OLED or the C2, but less so in real life. Definitely warmer and brighter. I personally prefer it, but it doesn’t seem we have any way to see “true intent” DV unless somebody has ideas….


----------



## tovaxxx

Your picture is so different compared to the picture of kraine


----------



## Ricoflashback

kraine said:


> View attachment 3232051


So which one (outside of the OLED) do you prefer? Also - lattiboy’s pics are much different than yours. I dont know of it’s the camera or not but the biggest difference is in the darkness of her tattoo.


----------



## ngcoolman

kraine said:


> View attachment 3232051





lattiboy said:


> I uploaded a bad photo and didn’t realize until after I had posted. I put up one that’s closer to real life, but still constrained by camera. It’s for sure less contrastt than the OLED or the C2, but less so in real life. Definitely warmer and brighter. I personally prefer it, but it doesn’t seem we have any way to see “true intent” DV unless somebody has ideas….


I appreciate your effort. I think everyone has his own preference on how the picture look like. I notice that you prefer cooler temperature and brighter picture thus your preference on office/bright in DV. 

If my guess is correct, if you can take the same shot with view/dark mode, the picture will be much closer to the Sony and C2 picture in terms of color temperature. I would like to do it myself if possible but unfortunately HBO max is not available to my region.


----------



## ngcoolman

tovaxxx said:


> Your picture is so different compared to the picture of kraine



If I am correct, gregory (kraine) just took your pic and lattiboy picture and stitch them together for comparison purpose.


----------



## lattiboy

ngcoolman said:


> I appreciate your effort. I think everyone has his own preference on how the picture look like. I notice that you prefer cooler temperature and brighter picture thus your preference on office/bright in DV.
> 
> If my guess is correct, if you can take the same shot with view/dark mode, the picture will be much closer to the Sony and C2 picture in terms of color temperature. I would like to do it myself if possible but unfortunately HBO max is not available to my region.


This is quick and dirty with no edits to pictures, but view and office mode DV very similar except you see the red push with view. Basically view mode is a tiny bit darker and hues a bit green (with weird red errors occasionally), office mode is brighter and hues a bit pink. Contrast is very close.

It’s very difficult to get in a photo and I’m kind of regretting doing this now…..

View / Dark








office / dark











Also, fun fact, you can’t pause HBO Max without a dimmed screen, so you gotta snap these in motion. Very annoying!


----------



## kraine

ngcoolman said:


> If I am correct, gregory (kraine) just took your pic and lattiboy picture and stitch them together for comparison purpose.


Exactly.


----------



## GaeIta80

In my first 2 days test, "Office/Dark" looks less yellowish and more neutral, above all on white (any snow example is easy to spot).

Really depends on the content you are watching, spent a couple of hours with @mirkmito yesterday and we were just amazed by overall PQ for a 135" image from 1080p content to high definition DV one (on a white wall!)

Below calibration test example, will post more stuff later on

Question: would you guys go for a Vividstorm 120" tab tension drop down (€1840) or a 100" floor rising one wall mounted over the shelf (€1000)? Fixed screen is not an option, viewing distance is 3-4mt, thanks


----------



## tovaxxx

I hope Gregory will be done with his test of the T1 soon. Still I can change my order of the T1 and order the C2.

Go for the Vividstorm 120". You will not regret.


----------



## chrisdu46

Hello everyone,

I wanted to know if any of you received your T1 in this packaging?









Apparently, you all received yours with the following packaging:











Would there be two different versions of the T1?


----------



## GaeIta80

chrisdu46 said:


> Hello everyone,
> 
> I wanted to know if any of you received your T1 in this packaging?
> View attachment 3232069
> 
> 
> Apparently, you all received yours with the following packaging:
> 
> 
> View attachment 3232073
> 
> 
> Would there be two different versions of the T1?


Yep I got the dancing woman one


----------



## ngcoolman

chrisdu46 said:


> Hello everyone,
> 
> I wanted to know if any of you received your T1 in this packaging?
> View attachment 3232069
> 
> 
> Apparently, you all received yours with the following packaging:
> 
> 
> View attachment 3232073
> 
> 
> Would there be two different versions of the T1?


I received the dancing woman version. I think the dancing woman one packaging is specifically designed for the launch. Yours probably is the standard packaging. It will he interested to know whether your version will have newer fw.


----------



## GaeIta80

tovaxxx said:


> I hope Gregory will be done with his test of the T1 soon. Still I can change my order of the T1 and order the C2.
> 
> Go for the Vividstorm 120". You will not regret.


Thanks mate, will look into it to see if I can make it work.

Gregory’s review won't be enthusiastic about the T1 as he already mentioned a few times, so if you base your choice only on that, C2 will be the clear winner.

From a personal experience, T1 is an amazing machine that needs a bit of lifting via firmware (MEMC on DV, more accurate colours) but 1 thing that C2 won't never have is this colours "wow effect" that only a wider colour gamut tri-laser can offer


----------



## 3sprit

mirkmito said:


> it is urgent to report to Formovie MEMC implementation for DV.


They never will: you have to use 60Hz sources.
It's all streaming oriented and the streaming is 60Hz


----------



## Tanizhq

chrisdu46 said:


> Hello everyone,
> 
> I wanted to know if any of you received your T1 in this packaging?
> View attachment 3232069
> 
> 
> Apparently, you all received yours with the following packaging:
> 
> 
> View attachment 3232073
> 
> 
> Would there be two different versions of the T1?


According to Jason Li at WuPro the Art one is a limited edition packaging they did for the first 1000 editions. The rest come in normal packaging


----------



## kraine




----------



## CabbageMan

lattiboy said:


> Highly highly _*HIGHLY*_ recommend forcing DV out on your media player (Roku Ultra, AppleTV, Nvidia, and Firestick Max should all have this option for HDR always on) and setting office brightness and dark mode. Gregory said it helped eliminate red push and he was right! Thanks man!
> 
> Really enjoying it and haven’t run into any issues with SDR or HDR content looking wacky. I changed it to bright mode for Dune because that movie has incredibly dark sections that are difficult to see in the dark mode.
> 
> This is a real torture scene from The Life Aquatic. It’s very difficult to capture with a camera, but the shadow detail from the pitch black sky to the singers skin to the tuxedo is incredibly well done with these settings. Weirdly, this mode makes photography much more difficult as there is a distinct yellow cast in pictures that does not exist when watching. I have attempted to correct for this, but it is difficult on an iPhone. In real life his shirt is more brilliant and the red hats are a much deeper red.
> 
> SDR content with DV forced:
> 
> View attachment 3232031


So you no longer watch with DV? I thought you (and others) said DV was the best even with the infrequent red push?

Also do you know if GoogleTV has the option you mentioned like the shield, Roku, Apple TV and fire stick?


----------



## Tanizhq

CabbageMan said:


> So you no longer watch with DV? I thought you (and others) said DV was the best even with the infrequent red push?


Thats literally the opposite of what he is saying, he is saying to ALWAYS have DV mode on no matter what content you are watching.


----------



## CabbageMan

Tanizhq said:


> Thats literally the opposite of what he is saying, he is saying to ALWAYS have DV mode on no matter what content you are watching.


Oh I took “forcing Dolby vision out” as like forcing it to not use Dolby vision. Thanks for clarifying.


----------



## ngcoolman

Took some picture of Emily in Paris S1 E2 8:28 and 8:34 for T1, Sony X900F and my Lenovo Legion 5 Pro laptop all in DV mode. I used my DSLR to try to avoid smartphone AI processing as much as possible. Even trying my best, I would say the photos are still not 100% faithful to what I saw from 3 displays. In reality, the three look very similar to each other, with the legion the warmest and the Sony the coolest and T1 in between. 

T1 (View/Dark)









Sony X900F









Legion 5 Pro









T1









Sony X900F









Legion 5 pro


----------



## Ricoflashback

ngcoolman said:


> Took some picture of Emily in Paris S1 E2 8:28 and 8:34 for T1, Sony X900F and my Lenovo Legion 5 Pro laptop all in DV mode. I used my DSLR to try to avoid smartphone AI processing as much as possible. Even trying my best, I would say the photos are still not 100% faithful to what I saw from 3 displays. In reality, the three look very similar to each other, with the legion the warmest and the Sony the coolest and T1 in between.
> 
> T1 (View/Dark)
> View attachment 3232115
> 
> 
> Sony X900F
> View attachment 3232119
> 
> 
> Legion 5 Pro
> View attachment 3232120
> 
> 
> T1
> View attachment 3232126
> 
> 
> Sony X900F
> View attachment 3232127
> 
> 
> Legion 5 pro
> View attachment 3232128


That’s interesting. Having a Sony 900F myself, just from looks alone, the 900F and T1 look the same. That’s quite amazing as for a LCD TV, the 900F is no slouch and was one of the best and early bang for buck TV’s with Dolby Vision. It still hangs behind on my wall where my current electronic PJ screen goes over.


----------



## eezrider

kraine said:


> View attachment 3232084


Movie and time code? Would like to check on my OLED also. 

Which brightness modes were used on the T1? 

Do you have a pic of the same scene on the C2?


----------



## eezrider

ngcoolman said:


> Took some picture of Emily in Paris S1 E2 8:28 and 8:34 for T1, Sony X900F and my Lenovo Legion 5 Pro laptop all in DV mode. I used my DSLR to try to avoid smartphone AI processing as much as possible. Even trying my best, I would say the photos are still not 100% faithful to what I saw from 3 displays. In reality, the three look very similar to each other, with the legion the warmest and the Sony the coolest and T1 in between.
> 
> T1 (View/Dark)
> View attachment 3232115
> 
> 
> Sony X900F
> View attachment 3232119
> 
> 
> Legion 5 Pro
> View attachment 3232120
> 
> 
> T1
> View attachment 3232126
> 
> 
> Sony X900F
> View attachment 3232127
> 
> 
> Legion 5 pro
> View attachment 3232128


Interesting. In the first sequence there is a slight difference between the scenes - in the Sony image he's drinking from his glass vs. toasting in the T1. The Sony has noticeably more detail in the blacks, look at his hair and the back of his jacket. Was there a lighting difference between the two shots? 

In the second sequence there doesn't appear to be such a difference.


----------



## GaeIta80

Ok so, a quick and unfair head to head with my LG Oled C1 77" vs T1 135" image on a white wall for Shang-Chi in DV with Office mode

Office/Bright









Office/Dark (more accurate and sharp i.e. check the tree)









Office/Dark (without OLED light on)









I guess with a proper ALR screen with enhanced contrast, colour and blacks it would be a nice fight


----------



## Ricoflashback

GaeIta80 said:


> Ok so, a quick and unfair head to head with my LG Oled C1 77" vs T1 135" image on a white wall for Shang-Chi in DV with Office mode
> 
> Office/Bright
> View attachment 3232157
> 
> 
> Office/Dark (more accurate and sharp i.e. check the tree)
> View attachment 3232158
> 
> 
> I guess with a proper ALR screen with enhanced contrast, colour and blacks it would be a nice fight


As much as I love my OLED, nothing compares to the thrill of the big screen experience. Nothing. And yes - a proper ALR setup will bring out the color pop, black level and contrast you want. Not really a fair fight as you’ve tied the T’1’s hands behind its back.


----------



## CabbageMan

GaeIta80 said:


> Ok so, a quick and unfair head to head with my LG Oled C1 77" vs T1 135" image on a white wall for Shang-Chi in DV with Office mode
> 
> Office/Bright
> View attachment 3232157
> 
> 
> Office/Dark (more accurate and sharp i.e. check the tree)
> View attachment 3232158
> 
> 
> I guess with a proper ALR screen with enhanced contrast, colour and blacks it would be a nice fight


Yeah need an ALR screen and gotta get rid of that ambient light


----------



## GaeIta80

Ricoflashback said:


> As much as I love my OLED, nothing compares to the thrill of the big screen experience. Nothing. And yes - a proper ALR setup will bring out the color pop, black level and contrast you want. Not really a fair fight as you’ve tied the T’1’s hands behind its back.


I know mate, but the idea was to show that even in the worst conditions it creates a solid good picture...impressed


----------



## mirkmito

3sprit said:


> They never will: you have to use 60Hz sources.
> It's all streaming oriented and the streaming is 60Hz


@3sprit Tomorrow I write to Formovie ..... let's see what they tell me ... It is not acceptable that those who use Bluray must see like s**t


----------



## 3sprit

Are blurays Dolby Vision? However, there is little to do because the frequency of all these DLPs is 60Hz…


----------



## mirkmito

3sprit said:


> Are blurays Dolby Vision? However, there is little to do because the frequency of all these DLPs is 60Hz…


@3sprit rit The real DV is only in the bluray und😉
Ex:
Joker
Top gun
1917
007 no time
And many others...

In stream and all compressed ... Since in sdr and hdr there is the motion option (MEMC) .... they should put it in DV mode

Using a vpr and then not fully exploiting the quality is paradoxical


----------



## Ricoflashback

mirkmito said:


> @3sprit Tomorrow I write to Formovie ..... let's see what they tell me ... It is not acceptable that those who use Bluray must see like s**t


I totally agree even though I stream, exclusively, and won't have the judder issues since I don't use a 4K Blu-ray player. But I might in the future so it's an important feature/benefit. One of the things I like about the BenQ V7050i is support on video modes - 720p, 1080i, 1080p/60, 1080p/24, 1080p/25, 1080p/30, 1080p/50, 2160p/24, 2160p/60, 576i, 576p, 480p, 480i. But still - - even though it has better specs on color coverage - - it does not have the black levels and still has the mist & gas like all the other UST projectors. That has to be ALPD 3.0 and ALPD 4.0 working.


----------



## mirkmito

Ricoflashback said:


> I totally agree even though I stream, exclusively, and won't have the judder issues since I don't use a 4K Blu-ray player. But I might in the future so it's an important feature/benefit. One of the things I like about the BenQ V7050i is support on video modes - 720p, 1080i, 1080p/60, 1080p/24, 1080p/25, 1080p/30, 1080p/50, 2160p/24, 2160p/60, 576i, 576p, 480p, 480i. But still - - even though it has better specs on color coverage - - it does not have the black levels and still has the mist & gas like all the other UST projectors. That has to be ALPD 3.0 and ALPD 4.0 working.


The benefits of Benq, hisense etc ... have better image customization, but lack the overall quality ... Very hard choice ... To say that yesterday I was impressed with the bluray via the oppo ... a calibration to make the vpr better


----------



## Ricoflashback

mirkmito said:


> The benefits of Benq, hisense etc ... have better image customization, but lack the overall quality ... Very hard choice ... To say that yesterday I was impressed with the bluray via the oppo ... a calibration to make the vpr better


I am a huge BenQ fan as it was my very first projector (short throw W1080ST.) Due to my short throw space and limited humble home theater - I purchased last summer the TK700STi as it was one of the few PJ's that I could fit in my basement. I'm not even a gamer and I still immensely enjoy the PJ for movies and sports. BenQ's "out of the box experience" and colors are second to none. Since we'll be moving, I'm pretty sure I won't have space for a dedicated theater. Hence my interest in UST's. If I did have space for another home theater - - I'd seriously consider the new Epson Laser 12000.

But back to UST's - - like I've said, the black levels and removal of gas and mist can't be overstated as a key differentiator between the Chinese UST projectors and all the other UST's on the market. And that makes you think - - why can't they provide a robust CMS and customization feature? Even Dynamic Tone Mapping! They certainly have the smarts and innovation to do it. Maybe it hasn't made it to the top of their priority list?


----------



## mirkmito

Ricoflashback said:


> I am a huge BenQ fan as it was my very first projector (short throw W1080ST.) Due to my short throw space and limited humble home theater - I purchased last summer the TK700STi as it was one of the few PJ's that I could fit in my basement. I'm not even a gamer and I still immensely enjoy the PJ for movies and sports. BenQ's "out of the box experience" and colors are second to none. Since we'll be moving, I'm pretty sure I won't have space for a dedicated theater. Hence my interest in UST's. If I did have space for another home theater - - I'd seriously consider the new Epson Laser 12000.
> 
> But back to UST's - - like I've said, the black levels and removal of gas and mist can't be overstated as a key differentiator between the Chinese UST projectors and all the other UST's on the market. And that makes you think - - why can't they provide a robust CMS and customization feature? Even Dynamic Tone Mapping! They certainly have the smarts and innovation to do it. Maybe it hasn't made it to the top of their priority list?


For me they are thinking of them as plug n play .... and it seems to have no interest in making a product as professional as possible ... Certainly in the near future ...


----------



## humax

GaeIta80 said:


> I guess with a proper ALR screen with enhanced contrast, color and blacks it would be a nice fight



Check out after 7:35 in the following video:

The New Vividstorm S PRO Electric Tension UST ALR Floor Screen | Latest Version - YouTube


----------



## GaeIta80

humax said:


> Check out after 7:35 in the following video:
> 
> The New Vividstorm S PRO Electric Tension UST ALR Floor Screen | Latest Version - YouTube


I know, it's in my radar...just trying to understand best working setup


----------



## Ricoflashback

GaeIta80 said:


> I know, it's in my radar...just trying to understand best working setup


Well, if you have pets (especially cats) or kids or want a higher stand - - the floor rising options won't work. Now, if you don't have any of those, and if you're in an apartment or a place with low ceilings - - it's a great, non-invasive option. You'll still have the issue of where to put a center speaker, especially a large one if you integrate an audio system with your projector. 

I've always thought an electronic screen, UST ALR & tab-tensioned provides the most discrete and elegant way to have a projector. It can also be modified, easier, as you have more fabric/screen to adjust top to bottom. Even a "dual setup" with an LCD or OLED behind it. But in all frankness, I have an OLED to watch in our bedroom and I'm starting to watch the projector 95% of the time in my man cave. Even a 75" TV looks dinky compared to a 100" screen with a projector.


----------



## 3sprit

GaeIta80 said:


> I know, it's in my radar...just trying to understand best working setup


Contact them directly to get the best price with shipping from Europe


----------



## Adamgoodapp

Should finally get my T1 tomorrow. Does any one know how to force DV / hdr always on mode on a shield tv pro?


----------



## Tanizhq

Anyone have a good recommendation for a fixed ALR 100/120" screen for the T1? Ideally something which isn't going to cost almost as much as the projector?


----------



## Ricoflashback

Adamgoodapp said:


> Should finally get my T1 tomorrow. Does any one know how to force DV / hdr always on mode on a shield tv pro?


Usually the question is the other way around, namely, turning off Dolby Vision and defaulting to HDR. But to keep DV and HDR on all the time, just enable Dolby Vision and you should be go. 






Enable Dolby Vision/HDR10 on SHIELD


Enable Dolby Vision/HDR10 on SHIELD



www.nvidia.com


----------



## lattiboy

Question for folks on here about 24p judder. I’m watching very high bitrate BluRay rips (80Mbps) around 40-50GB. I don’t see any judder watching them. Is this a disc only thing no matter how high the bitrate?


----------



## stfidel

With the samsung LSP9T at 3999 EPP pricing, any chance this is still better?


----------



## mirkmito

lattiboy said:


> Question for folks on here about 24p judder. I’m watching very high bitrate BluRay rips (80Mbps) around 40-50GB. I don’t see any judder watching them. Is this a disc only thing no matter how high the bitrate?


@lattiboy The problem of stuttering at 24p is only present in DV contents (the MEMC function is not present) .... While for sdr and hdr contents it is present and therefore the contents are seen perfectly ... in MEMC mode set on low


----------



## humax

stfidel said:


> With the samsung at 3999 EPP pricing, any chance this is still better?



Are you talking about the LSP9T? If so, this has a 0.66" higher native resolution DMD vs the 1080x4 0.47" DMD of the T1. Contrast should be better on the T1, colors better on the Sammy. The latter is also reported to have pronounced speckle, whereas the T1 minimal. If I were to choose between them, I would choose the T1, but by a small margin.


----------



## abaintor

About MEMC limitation on dolby vision this is the biggest issue that deserve a quick clarification from Fengmi as I doubt that it could be fixed. 
You mentioned blurays, this is very unfortunate because this is the best source (on disc or ripped) to get on a large screen due to higher bitrate. A dv 4k movie with a 60mbps bitrate has a far superior and visible quality against the very high compressed video stream of 16mbps. I tried it on marvel disney+. Even the Blu-ray 1080p looks better than the 4k stream version. 



GaeIta80 said:


> Yes, I do confirm. Firestick 4k Max forces any content in DV selecting "HDR always on" and with Office/Dark or Bright works a magic 🎩


I tried to enable dolby vision always on on the fire tv max 4k and it is a disaster : the non dv videos are washed out. The Apple TV does a better job


----------



## mirkmito

abaintor said:


> About MEMC limitation on dolby vision this is the biggest issue that deserve a quick clarification from Fengmi as I doubt that it could be fixed.
> You mentioned blurays, this is very unfortunate because this is the best source (on disc or ripped) to get on a large screen due to higher bitrate. A dv 4k movie with a 60mbps bitrate has a far superior and visible quality against the very high compressed video stream of 16mbps. I tried it on marvel disney+. Even the Blu-ray 1080p looks better than the 4k stream version.


Tomorrow I contact Formovie and let's see what they say ... Certainly if the motion management for DV in bluray will not be implemented ... for those who use bluray like me it makes no sense to buy right now ... Too immature


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

So after more time and finally getting my screen perfect.
My only issue right now is HDR being too dark.

Still looking for the best solution to force SDR on the Shield in those situations.

As I was fixing the screen I manage to get perfect focus all 4 corners a few times while adjusting the image to fit the screen, but not while the image was perfectly fitting the screen, like soooo close but not perfect.

So I settled for a slightly softer focus in the top corners to get the image to fit rather than the perfect focus and not fit the screen.

My screen is not perfectly flat against the wall, my projector is not perfectly level, my floor is not perfectly level. I threw all the bad things at it and still got a great result.

I have a 115" screen, I am not sure if these UST are supposed to "fit" a specific size screen like 120" or 100" and have slight focus issues if you try something "out of spec" like 115" or 150".

The good thing is I cant notice any focus issue when watching actual content, and having the softness at those top corners wont even affect a movie with the ultra wide cinema format where black bars are at the top and bottom.

I am still not blow away by the brightness, thinking with an ALR screen it would be much brighter and ambient light would have little impact on the screen, if I do not pull my curtains for the back door it will absolutely wash out the screen. Still watchable, but if its a dark movie or something you need the curtains pulled to get the black details. 

I might take some photos and stuff here soon to share, but I think my next tune/tweak time is going back to audio.
Thinking about plugging a port in my subs and redoing my house curve on the MiniDSP and then redoing my full speaker calibration on DIRAC. I assume having the 115" screen on the wall has changed some acoustic values in my room vs a 75" TV.


----------



## chrisdu46

Tanizhq said:


> Anyone have a good recommendation for a fixed ALR 100/120" screen for the T1? Ideally something which isn't going to cost almost as much as the projector?


I'm projecting on an Aeon Edge Free CLR 100" screen (Elite Screens) with a gain of 0.6 and I'm really happy with it


----------



## ngcoolman

eezrider said:


> Interesting. In the first sequence there is a slight difference between the scenes - in the Sony image he's drinking from his glass vs. toasting in the T1. The Sony has noticeably more detail in the blacks, look at his hair and the back of his jacket. Was there a lighting difference between the two shots?
> 
> In the second sequence there doesn't appear to be such a difference.


Yeah. The shutter and aperture are not the same in those show. I think for the t1, I could increase the exposure by one stop and bring out more shadow details. But then the peak brightness of the actress face may look brighter that what I actually saw in person. I found that this comparison job is not easy to get right . I can only say the two look very similar and I prefer T1 picture. One interesting thing thought, x900f shot was taken from netflix native app while t1 was taken from xsx Netflix app. Xsx Netflix in x900f is kind of unusable while dv is too dark and other non-dv content will be washed out. But this is not the case on t1. Even forcing all content to dv, all types of content look fine to my eyes.


----------



## ngcoolman

mirkmito said:


> For me they are thinking of them as plug n play .... and it seems to have no interest in making a product as professional as possible ... Certainly in the near future ...


Unfortunately, in their primary market China, I am not aware anyone actually use uhd player at all. Actually, even dv content is not easy to get access to. And they have no access to streaming service like Netflix and Disney plus. Locally, I only aware tencent video has option to stream in DV. I also heard rumor Apple tv maybe launching in China soon too. Anyway, maybe if someone wrote in Chinese to complain, they may start to take it more seriously.


----------



## ngcoolman

eezrider said:


> Movie and time code? Would like to check on my OLED also.
> 
> Which brightness modes were used on the T1?
> 
> Do you have a pic of the same scene on the C2?


Netflix Emily in Paris S1 E2 8:28 and 8:34, cheers.


----------



## ngcoolman

abaintor said:


> About MEMC limitation on dolby vision this is the biggest issue that deserve a quick clarification from Fengmi as I doubt that it could be fixed.
> You mentioned blurays, this is very unfortunate because this is the best source (on disc or ripped) to get on a large screen due to higher bitrate. A dv 4k movie with a 60mbps bitrate has a far superior and visible quality against the very high compressed video stream of 16mbps. I tried it on marvel disney+. Even the Blu-ray 1080p looks better than the 4k stream version.
> 
> 
> I tried to enable dolby vision always on on the fire tv max 4k and it is a disaster : the non dv videos are washed out. The Apple TV does a better job


Are you trying this on T1 or other display devices? What you are experiencing is the typical user experience when forcing non-dv content to dv on other displays. I have the same experience with my sony x900f too. But t1 somehow seems to work better on this.


----------



## tnaik4

Ricoflashback said:


> I am a huge BenQ fan as it was my very first projector (short throw W1080ST.) Due to my short throw space and limited humble home theater - I purchased last summer the TK700STi as it was one of the few PJ's that I could fit in my basement. I'm not even a gamer and I still immensely enjoy the PJ for movies and sports. BenQ's "out of the box experience" and colors are second to none. Since we'll be moving, I'm pretty sure I won't have space for a dedicated theater. Hence my interest in UST's. If I did have space for another home theater - - I'd seriously consider the new Epson Laser 12000.
> 
> But back to UST's - - like I've said, the black levels and removal of gas and mist can't be overstated as a key differentiator between the Chinese UST projectors and all the other UST's on the market. And that makes you think - - why can't they provide a robust CMS and customization feature? Even Dynamic Tone Mapping! They certainly have the smarts and innovation to do it. Maybe it hasn't made it to the top of their priority list?


Oh man, my first ever projector was a short throw BenQ w1080st , i loved that unit for what it is.


----------



## Tanizhq

chrisdu46 said:


> I'm projecting on an Aeon Edge Free CLR 100" screen (Elite Screens) with a gain of 0.6 and I'm really happy with it


I saw that one, but thats $1000 is a bit much for me atm, was hoping for a cheaper option haha


----------



## DeanM3

Tanizhq said:


> I saw that one, but thats $1000 is a bit much for me atm, was hoping for a cheaper option haha


i have both the Aeon CLR 0.6 and the XY Screens 0.6 ALR materials in my possession and they are identical in my opinion.


----------



## eezrider

lattiboy said:


> OK, I had just enough to drink to do something pretty stupid. I have HBO Max and a standard HDR rip of The Suicide Squad. So, I’m going to show you the same scene three ways and I think it really shows why the T1 can bowl you over.
> 
> HDR displayed normally from a 18GB x265 4K rip:
> 
> View attachment 3232041
> 
> 
> Same content with DV office/dark forced:
> 
> View attachment 3232038
> 
> 
> Proper DV from HBO Max:
> 
> View attachment 3232050
> 
> 
> 
> In person the last shot is really pretty amazing. The red dress is absolutely stunning, like the most dazzling, deep red I’ve ever seen, but not blown out or tacky. This scene is at about 42:40 if you wanna check it out.
> 
> The HDR with forced DV looks a lot like a darker version of the DV on the Xaomi C2:
> View attachment 3232040
> 
> 
> This also shows a very interesting color change in the background of the C2. Does anybody have a DV capable reference screen to see which is correct?


@lattiboy, thanks for providing these images, it's really useful. I appreciate it's hard to get these photos right, but in the second of these, the forced DV shot, I wonder if the photo is darker than it should be compared to the others. In each of the photos you have usefully included the led on the projector. In the first and third photos the led is of similar brightness, but in the second its much dimmer, suggesting the image is underexposed. I was expecting after your comments about forced DV that it would look better than the image here shows. If it's underexposed then that would explain it. Is that possible?


----------



## lattiboy

eezrider said:


> @lattiboy, thanks for providing these images, it's really useful. I appreciate it's hard to get these photos right, but in the second of these, the forced DV shot, I wonder if the photo is darker than it should be compared to the others. In each of the photos you have usefully included the led on the projector. In the first and third photos the led is of similar brightness, but in the second its much dimmer, suggesting the image is underexposed. I was expecting after your comments about forced DV that it would look better than the image here shows. If it's underexposed then that would explain it. Is that possible?


very possibly, the issue is that in order to get the colors correct you have to lower the exposure. At the time, I was more concerned about the color than about the exposure. All three of these probably look brighter in person, but the highlights get blown out easily in an iPhone camera.

If I have time tonight I might retake them a little less drunk, but in order to do this correctly you need a DSLR, a tripod, and the will to organize and update pictures.


----------



## indieke2

Although the review is still not on line. I will get the Xiaomi C 2, even if people like the T 1.

Reason : 

Color accuracy. More important then flashing colour.
DV better handled at the moment
HDR 10 + not working yet on T 1, and also not goes in HDR mode as well as C2
Even if 3 lasers have their advantages, it seems less problems with 2

In general the C 2 , has less issues and then there is also the question of taste.


----------



## lattiboy

eezrider said:


> @lattiboy, thanks for providing these images, it's really useful. I appreciate it's hard to get these photos right, but in the second of these, the forced DV shot, I wonder if the photo is darker than it should be compared to the others. In each of the photos you have usefully included the led on the projector. In the first and third photos the led is of similar brightness, but in the second its much dimmer, suggesting the image is underexposed. I was expecting after your comments about forced DV that it would look better than the image here shows. If it's underexposed then that would explain it. Is that possible?


Redid it, and it was indeed underexposed yesterday. I’m currently using DV mode for everything and very happy with it. This is as close as I could get it with my iPhone, but her skin is much less contrasty and the highlights are much more even in person viewing. I believe I was trying to compensate for that and that’s how I ended up with the underexposed shot yesterday.

Also, the dress is a much lighter and pretty shade of red in person, I simply have no idea how to fix that without opening up Photoshop which I am not up to this weekend.

This is HDR content being forced to display DV office /dark on my Roku:


----------



## driege

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Still looking for the best solution to force SDR on the Shield in those situations.


I sometimes use an HDMI splitter and when I connect my Shield to my projector (still using an old Vava for now) through the splitter, the Shield doesn't detect HDR capability and outputs SDR. You might be able to do something simple like this with a $10 splitter if you don't find the setting on the Shield.


----------



## driege

My shipment status on DHL shows an exception with the status "Shipment on Hold". Has anybody else experienced this?


----------



## Malaveae

kraine said:


> Small precision of importance my assembly has from the measurements of the
> Gamut of the Fengmi T1, Samsung SP9T and Hisense L9G is only to demonstrate that
> the announcements of the manufacturer (Fengmi) on a complete rec.2020 coverage are false. It does not constitute a qualitative ranking.


Just looking into appotronics website (ALPD<sup>®</sup>Technology - APPOTRONICS) and regarding ALPD 4.0 they are stating 98.5% of BT2020 coverage.
Probably that is why Fengmi T1 uses ALPD RBD+ term instead, which is almost achieving 90% BT2020 coverage. It will be helpfull to see if the Vava Chroma surpass the 100% using the ALPD 4.0.
I also believe that can be a matter of constrast/brightness trade-off with color gamut at this stage of the ALPD 4 generation. And the next gen ALPD 5.0 is the one to deal the complete BT2020 coverage.
Thanks for your reviews.


----------



## eezrider

driege said:


> My shipment status on DHL shows an exception with the status "Shipment on Hold". Has anybody else experienced this?


Yes, I had that. I think it was caused by the dealer Giving DHL an invalid phone number for me. They corrected this with DHL and things got moving again. Try contacting DHL.


----------



## ufokillerz

driege said:


> My shipment status on DHL shows an exception with the status "Shipment on Hold". Has anybody else experienced this?


mines on hold since sunday in HK, phone number is correct, they texted me when this was picked up.


----------



## Dr. Feelgood

Any good adresse where to order this projector in europe?


----------



## mirkmito

Dr. Feelgood said:


> Any good adresse where to order this projector in europe?


No shop in europe


----------



## antjes

Dr. Feelgood said:


> Any good adresse where to order this projector in europe?



I dont know if I can put a link, but look for "nothingbutlabel"


Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## zaselim

Hey guys, anyone knows where to get it in Canada?
And what are the placing measurements specially height between screen and the projector?


----------



## mirkmito

antjes said:


> I dont know if I can put a link, but look for "nothingbutlabel"
> 
> 
> Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


Australian shop .... with EU warehouse to avoid paying duties


----------



## mirkmito

zaselim said:


> Hey guys, anyone knows where to get it in Canada?
> And what are the placing measurements specially height between screen and the projector?











[US$2,369.99] FENGMI Formovie 4K Iaser Projector T1 ALPD RGB+ Panchromatic 2800 ANSI Lumens 5G WIFI MEMC Automatically Eletric Focus Keystone Correction 3+64GB WIFI FENG OS 10.7Billion Color Display Home Cinema Projectors & Accessories from Computers & Office on banggood.com


FENGMI Formovie 4K Iaser Projector T1 ALPD RGB+ Panchromatic 2800 ANSI Lumens 5G WIFI MEMC Automatically Eletric Focus Keystone Correction 3+64GB WIFI FENG OS 10.7Billion Color Display Home Cinema




usa-m.banggood.com


----------



## mayaCH

My T1 just arrived. Couldn't resist to unbox and test it at work on a dirty wall with full lights on. It is already amazing! Now i understand the difference between personal look and a foto (will attach some later).
One issue i have, the youtube app on the pj is crashing instantly by pressing on login. Anyone the same?


----------



## zaselim

I found it on Ali Express and there they are saying they can change the language to English if you want and for that they have to open the box and they also open the box to check the items if they're working properly or not. Is that reliable?
It is this one right.
2959.99US $ 50% OFF|Newest Fengmi Formovie T1 Cinema Laser TV 2800 ANSI Lumens 4K Projector 3GB DDR4+64GB eMMC HDR10 Home Theater Beamer|Smart Remote Control| - AliExpress"sku_id"%3A"12000027037337125"%7D&pdp_pi=-1%3B523696.23%3B-1%3B1098881%40salePrice%3BPKR%3Bsearch-mainSearch


----------



## zaselim

mayaCH said:


> My T1 just arrived. Couldn't resist to unbox and test it at work on a dirty wall with full lights on. It is already amazing! Now i understand the difference between personal look and a foto (will attach some later).
> One issue i have, the youtube app on the pj is crashing instantly by pressing on login. Anyone the same?


Nice, congrats. What are the space measurements? Like how below is the projector sitting from the screen and how far?


----------



## lattiboy

So I was watching my Sony X900E, which is a really solid TV from about five years ago with 90% DCI coverage, and noticed something. I know it’s quite accurate (I calibrated it with a SpyderX) and it holds up really well to modern LEDs, but the colors seem completely pathetic after watching the T1 for the last few weeks. I thought there was something wrong with it, but no, it’s just how most displays look! I even increased the color about 35%, and although the colors did pop, it looked insane and completely overblown.

It’s incredible how rich the colors on the T1 and other tri-lasers are. Completely changes what you expect out of a display and there isn’t really any going back. The strength of the T1 is combining that color with the contrast of other Chinese ALPD units. I think that’s why I find myself being so impressed with it. It really does stand alone as far as overall PQ is concerned, even with the issues around lack of CMS and DV accuracy.

I realize I’m stuck with this T1 now unless somebody releases a PJ with the accuracy and contrast of the C2 and the color of the T1 for anywhere near the same price.


----------



## mayaCH

zaselim said:


> Nice, congrats. What are the space measurements? Like how below is the projector sitting from the screen and how far?


i have no screen yet. picture width is a little more than 300cm. distance from wall to back of pj = 34.5cm, wall to front 69.5cm. bottom edge of picture is ~41cm above the lowboard where pj stands on.
pj delivered already set to english and aptoide tv installed. i got mine from Json Lee at wupro ltd. on alibaba.


----------



## zaselim

mayaCH said:


> i have no screen yet. picture width is a little more than 300cm. distance from wall to back of pj = 34.5cm, wall to front 69.5cm. bottom edge of picture is ~41cm above the lowboard where pj stands on.
> pj delivered already set to english and aptoide tv installed. i got mine from Json Lee at wupro ltd. on alibaba.


Thanks, I have almost the same screen size, 119 inches so it'll be the same for me as well around 16 to 20 inches from where the projector is setting(top edge of the stand/table) to low edge of the screen.
Have you checked the gaming response time yet? If not then plz post after checking it.


----------



## CabbageMan

mayaCH said:


> i have no screen yet. picture width is a little more than 300cm. distance from wall to back of pj = 34.5cm, wall to front 69.5cm. bottom edge of picture is ~41cm above the lowboard where pj stands on.
> pj delivered already set to english and aptoide tv installed. i got mine from Json Lee at wupro ltd. on alibaba.


When did you order? I just ordered from Jason Li at wupro on 1/27 and trying to set expectation on how long the shipping should take.


----------



## mayaCH

CabbageMan said:


> When did you order? I just ordered from Jason Li at wupro on 1/27 and trying to set expectation on how long the shipping should take.


1/25 but i paid extra for dhl express.
here some pics


----------



## lattiboy

zaselim said:


> Have you checked the gaming response time yet? If not then plz post after checking it.


I believe Gregory measured 43ms in game mode.


----------



## CabbageMan

mayaCH said:


> 1/25 but i paid extra for dhl express.
> here some pics
> View attachment 3232841
> 
> View attachment 3232840
> 
> View attachment 3232842


Looks awesome! Mine is being shipped through Fedex. He told me 4-9 days but it's currently still sitting in China so I'm thinking it'll be closer to that 9 day time. Hopefully it doesn't take much longer than that. Enjoy your projector!


----------



## Ricoflashback

mayaCH said:


> 1/25 but i paid extra for dhl express.
> here some pics
> View attachment 3232841
> 
> View attachment 3232840
> 
> View attachment 3232842


For a blank wall, that's pretty astounding. And you're getting a lot of reflection from the ceiling since it's so close to the top. I bet a UST ALR screen will really make the colors pop and dazzle with the black levels.

Out of curiosity - how high is your stand? And, the height of your ceiling?


----------



## zaselim

guys what brand it is by the way? i never heard of fengmi or formovie. I read somewhere that its one of Xiaomi's sub brand, is it true?


----------



## zaselim

mayaCH said:


> 1/25 but i paid extra for dhl express.
> here some pics
> View attachment 3232841
> 
> View attachment 3232840
> 
> View attachment 3232842


Nice pictures, how is the contrast in person. With pictures you also have to factor how camera catches the picture so.


----------



## Ricoflashback

zaselim said:


> guys what brand it is by the way? i never heard of fengmi or formovie. I read somewhere that its one of Xiaomi's sub brand, is it true?


It's a dark web company that you need a token for. Everyone on this forum has one. Just kidding.

Fengmi (Beijing) Technology Co., Ltd. (Fengmi Technology), the world's leading ALPD laser display technology company, was founded in 2016 by Appotronics Corporation Ltd. and Xiaomi Technology Co., Ltd (Xiaomi).

Side note - - Appotronics, the creator of ALPD Technology (the secret sauce behind the black levels and removal of gas and mist on a DLP Projector) is an interesting company. Their website is a mess - - lots of bling and difficult to navigate. But the ALPD development (5.0 to be released soon) is behind the Fengmi, Xiaomi and Wemax brand names. 

Her name was Magill, she called herself Lil, but everyone knew her as Nancy. 






APPOTRONICS


APPOTRONICS,New Light,New Life!




en.appotronics.com


----------



## zaselim

lattiboy said:


> I believe Gregory measured 43ms in game mode.


Can you point me to Gregory's review, Thanks.


----------



## mayaCH

zaselim said:


> Can you point me to Gregory's review, Thanks.


it is yet to come out. there are some posting on previous pages Gregory is user kraine here on forum, also you can look into his own forum, here, scroll down and use translator.

i love this projector! its my first one, i don't know if there is anything a lot better in the price range, but yeah, i love it.
need to feagure out some things:
youtube app is crashing when logging in
i would like to disable this chinese launcher which with something like leanback
it is actually android9 in kind of sandbox/vm ontop of fengmios? or is fengmios just a crippled android?
focus could be a little bit sharper on 130+ inch, but since the screen i plan to buy is 120", it should be good. my focus issue is only on windows desktop 3840*2160 scaling 100%, those small fonts are a little washed out... on my 75" tv on same settings those were sharp, but not readable hence too small.
smaller lowboard, or a lowboard made for ust, to get the screen down.

only thing i regret: i should have bought a ust projector a long time ago, if those single laser pjs are even half that good, it is absolutely better than a tv. it is "easier" to watch that reflected light for the eyes, while on tv even dark mode was burning retina. this projection is indeed like in cinema. like a window, without this neon-like poison colours.
for me a keeper and when there is some new tech as alpd5.0 out, i will go for it.


----------



## Ricoflashback

mayaCH said:


> it is yet to come out. there are some posting on previous pages Gregory is user kraine here on forum, also you can look into his own forum, here, scroll down and use translator.
> 
> i love this projector! its my first one, i don't know if there is anything a lot better in the price range, but yeah, i love it.
> need to feagure out some things:
> youtube app is crashing when logging in
> i would like to disable this chinese launcher which with something like leanback
> it is actually android9 in kind of sandbox/vm ontop of fengmios? or is fengmios just a crippled android?
> focus could be a little bit sharper on 130+ inch, but since the screen i plan to buy is 120", it should be good. my focus issue is only on windows desktop 3840*2160 scaling 100%, those small fonts are a little washed out... on my 75" tv on same settings those were sharp, but not readable hence too small.
> smaller lowboard, or a lowboard made for ust, to get the screen down.
> 
> only thing i regret: i should have bought a ust projector a long time ago, if those single laser pjs are even half that good, it is absolutely better than a tv. it is "easier" to watch that reflected light for the eyes, while on tv even dark mode was burning retina. this projection is indeed like in cinema. like a window, without this neon-like poison colours.
> for me a keeper and when there is some new tech as alpd5.0 out, i will go for it.


You're spoiled with this UST Projector. The black levels, color pop and removal of gas, mist or fog is a huge achievement. Also - - I find watching a projector much, much easier on my eyes. Even better than an OLED TV - - which has great colors, blackest of blacks and shadow detail. But I can watch my PJ for hours on end from movies to sports to streaming without any eye fatigue whatsoever.


----------



## zaselim

mayaCH said:


> it is yet to come out. there are some posting on previous pages Gregory is user kraine here on forum, also you can look into his own forum, here, scroll down and use translator.
> 
> i love this projector! its my first one, i don't know if there is anything a lot better in the price range, but yeah, i love it.
> need to feagure out some things:
> youtube app is crashing when logging in
> i would like to disable this chinese launcher which with something like leanback
> it is actually android9 in kind of sandbox/vm ontop of fengmios? or is fengmios just a crippled android?
> focus could be a little bit sharper on 130+ inch, but since the screen i plan to buy is 120", it should be good. my focus issue is only on windows desktop 3840*2160 scaling 100%, those small fonts are a little washed out... on my 75" tv on same settings those were sharp, but not readable hence too small.
> smaller lowboard, or a lowboard made for ust, to get the screen down.
> 
> only thing i regret: i should have bought a ust projector a long time ago, if those single laser pjs are even half that good, it is absolutely better than a tv. it is "easier" to watch that reflected light for the eyes, while on tv even dark mode was burning retina. this projection is indeed like in cinema. like a window, without this neon-like poison colours.
> for me a keeper and when there is some new tech as alpd5.0 out, i will go for it.


Yeah I was reading his article just now and the recent comments on his page, So far he is disappointed with the projector. According to him and other commenters what i gathered is that the image is softer compared to C2 and DV is too red and needs fixing. He said (on 28th Jan) will post his review next week so It will be by Sunday or Monday i believe. Lets see what will be his final thoughs.
I was originally planning to get Hisense PX-1 before I saw this thread, So i will base my decision after reading the review.


----------



## ngcoolman

mayaCH said:


> it is yet to come out. there are some posting on previous pages Gregory is user kraine here on forum, also you can look into his own forum, here, scroll down and use translator.
> 
> i love this projector! its my first one, i don't know if there is anything a lot better in the price range, but yeah, i love it.
> need to feagure out some things:
> youtube app is crashing when logging in
> i would like to disable this chinese launcher which with something like leanback
> it is actually android9 in kind of sandbox/vm ontop of fengmios? or is fengmios just a crippled android?
> focus could be a little bit sharper on 130+ inch, but since the screen i plan to buy is 120", it should be good. my focus issue is only on windows desktop 3840*2160 scaling 100%, those small fonts are a little washed out... on my 75" tv on same settings those were sharp, but not readable hence too small.
> smaller lowboard, or a lowboard made for ust, to get the screen down.
> 
> only thing i regret: i should have bought a ust projector a long time ago, if those single laser pjs are even half that good, it is absolutely better than a tv. it is "easier" to watch that reflected light for the eyes, while on tv even dark mode was burning retina. this projection is indeed like in cinema. like a window, without this neon-like poison colours.
> for me a keeper and when there is some new tech as alpd5.0 out, i will go for it.


I believe your seller installed YouTube before shipping the unit to you. I don't think standard one include youtube. I believe FengOS is based on the open source part of Android but doesn't include any proprietary part that is related to Google play service. For that, many apps will not work properly on fengos. The best for you is to get a streaming stick and then you can set the prj to switch to the hdmi port where you plug to the stick. Then you can skip the Chinese launcher completely.


----------



## Ricoflashback

ngcoolman said:


> I believe your seller installed YouTube before shipping the unit to you. I don't think standard one include youtube. I believe FengOS is based on the open source part of Android but doesn't include any proprietary part that is related to Google play service. For that, many apps will not work properly on fengos. The best for you is to get a streaming stick and then you can set the prj to switch to the hdmi port where you plug to the stick. Then you can skip the Chinese launcher completely.


Yeah - I see no sense in using the Fengmi O/S at all, outside of initial setup. Fengmi, Fengmi, you outta take a rope and hang me. (Sung to the tune of Roger Miller's "Dang Me.")


----------



## zoomx2

lattiboy said:


> So I was watching my Sony X900E, which is a really solid TV from about five years ago with 90% DCI coverage, and noticed something. I know it’s quite accurate (I calibrated it with a SpyderX) and it holds up really well to modern LEDs, but the colors seem completely pathetic after watching the T1 for the last few weeks. I thought there was something wrong with it, but no, it’s just how most displays look! I even increased the color about 35%, and although the colors did pop, it looked insane and completely overblown.
> 
> It’s incredible how rich the colors on the T1 and other tri-lasers are. Completely changes what you expect out of a display and there isn’t really any going back. The strength of the T1 is combining that color with the contrast of other Chinese ALPD units. I think that’s why I find myself being so impressed with it. It really does stand alone as far as overall PQ is concerned, even with the issues around lack of CMS and DV accuracy.
> 
> I realize I’m stuck with this T1 now unless somebody releases a PJ with the accuracy and contrast of the C2 and the color of the T1 for anywhere near the same price.


I downloaded Dolby Vision demo to USB and insert in USB port directly without any additional device or player. The color is perfect and no reddish tone on any scene other forum members posted before.


----------



## lattiboy

zoomx2 said:


> I downloaded Dolby Vision demo to USB and insert in USB port directly without any additional device or player. The color is perfect and no reddish tone on any scene other forum members posted before.


wow! Ok, I’m going to test this tonight myself! If it’s just an HDMI issue, that would be great!


----------



## Xspearo

Did anyone figure out a way to disable the auto shutdown feature on the T1 to keep it in standby mode?


----------



## manwithnoname

lattiboy said:


> Question for folks on here about 24p judder. I’m watching very high bitrate BluRay rips (80Mbps) around 40-50GB. I don’t see any judder watching them. Is this a disc only thing no matter how high the bitrate?


Hello All, 

I'm not sure if I am confused, but can someone please clarify the judder that is being reported while watching Bluray discs? Is it only on Bluray discs with Dolby Vision, or all 4K discs?

I'm ready to pull the trigger on this, but if Bluray disks stutter or have judder, it will be a major dealbreaker as 90% of what I watch is physical media.

I currently have a 4k Dell UST that looks great for most content, but I do notice what I consider judder when watching Bluray disks, so I am very curious about the comments here and want to make sure I'm not replacing my current UST with another with similar problems. 

An example of what I am seeing is: at random times about every minute or two, I will see what seems like a single frame missing and the action/motion on screen just looks clunky. It's extremely distracting, and only appears to be happening when watching Blurays (streaming Disney+, Netflix, HBOMax do not appear to show this). If this UST will have similar issues, I'd might have to go back to the drawing board.


----------



## ngcoolman

zoomx2 said:


> I downloaded Dolby Vision demo to USB and insert in USB port directly without any additional device or player. The color is perfect and no reddish tone on any scene other forum members posted before.


Have you tried the glassblow demo from dolby website? I did see the more than natural red face in that demo when I play it on USB. But I think the issue was overblown and misunderstood by many who didn't own the T1. I think quite a lot of people thought it was the whole image was too red all the time which was not the case. It is usually scene specific and even when it happens, it is not the whole picture suffering from it but a very specific area (e.g. faces redder than normal, white clothes look a bit redder than normal..etc). And why we think it is fw fixable because the same face of clothes may look normal again in the next scene. What make the misunderstanding worse is that most of the photos we took have a red cast which was not seen in person.


----------



## eezrider

manwithnoname said:


> Hello All,
> 
> I'm not sure if I am confused, but can someone please clarify the judder that is being reported while watching Bluray discs? Is it only on Bluray discs with Dolby Vision, or all 4K discs?
> 
> I'm ready to pull the trigger on this, but if Bluthe ray disks stutter or have judder, it will be a major dealbreaker as 90% of what I watch is physical media.
> 
> I currently have a 4k Dell UST that looks great for most content, but I do notice what I consider judder when watching Bluray disks, so I am very curious about the comments here and want to make sure I'm not replacing my current UST with another with similar problems.
> 
> An example of what I am seeing is: at random times about every minute or two, I will see what seems like a single frame missing and the action/motion on screen just looks clunky. It's extremely distracting, and only appears to be happening when watching Blurays (streaming Disney+, Netflix, HBOMax do not appear to show this). If this UST will have similar issues, I'd might have to go back to the drawing board.


For everything _except_ Dolby Vision content you can engage MEMC, it's only DV where this is not supported. With MEMC on low, I have not noticed any judder with SDR and HDR Blu Ray disks. I do not have any Blu Ray/DV disks so cannot comment on how they play. Streamed DV doesn't seem to provoke any judder.


----------



## esegan

indieke2 said:


> Although the review is still not on line. I will get the Xiaomi C 2, even if people like the T 1.
> Reason :
> Color accuracy. More important then flashing colour.
> DV better handled at the moment
> HDR 10 + not working yet on T 1, and also not goes in HDR mode as well as C2
> Even if 3 lasers have their advantages, it seems less problems with 2
> In general the C 2 , has less issues and then there is also the question of taste.


What color accuracy of Xiaomi C2 do you write about? You look at Gregory's measurements of the color space. It is worse than Fengmi C2. T1 has a red tint in DV, but it is most likely associated with a shift in the white scale. If the manufacturer corrects the red hue or adds custom RGB settings of the white scale, then the situation with red will improve or it will be possible to correct the white scale settings itself. Also Xiaomi C2 has a smaller color coverage of 81.8% of DCI-P3 and REC. 2020 about 63%. This means that T1 is more ready to display HDR and DV. As far as I understand, Grigory did not even post the HDR and DV measurement graphs, which makes you wonder what he is hiding.


----------



## esegan

esegan said:


> [ЦИТАТА="indieke2, сообщение: 61399631, участник: 7479350"]
> Although the review is still not on line. I will get the Xiaomi C 2, even if people like the T 1.
> Reason :
> Color accuracy. More important then flashing colour.
> DV better handled at the moment
> HDR 10 + not working yet on T 1, and also not goes in HDR mode as well as C2
> Even if 3 lasers have their advantages, it seems less problems with 2
> In general the C 2 , has less issues and then there is also the question of taste.
> [/ЦИТАТА]
> What color accuracy of Xiaomi C2 do you write about? You look at Gregory's measurements of the color space. It is worse than Fengmi C2. T1 has a red tint in DV, but it is most likely associated with a shift in the white scale. If the manufacturer corrects the red hue or adds custom RGB settings of the white scale, then the situation with red will improve or it will be possible to correct the white scale settings itself. Also Xiaomi C2 has a smaller color coverage of 81.8% of DCI-P3 and REC. 2020 about 63%. This means that T1 is more ready to display HDR and DV. As far as I understand, Grigory did not even post the HDR and DV measurement graphs, which makes you wonder what he is hiding.
> View attachment 3233107


----------



## mirkmito

manwithnoname said:


> Hello All,
> 
> I'm not sure if I am confused, but can someone please clarify the judder that is being reported while watching Bluray discs? Is it only on Bluray discs with Dolby Vision, or all 4K discs?
> 
> I'm ready to pull the trigger on this, but if Bluray disks stutter or have judder, it will be a major dealbreaker as 90% of what I watch is physical media.
> 
> I currently have a 4k Dell UST that looks great for most content, but I do notice what I consider judder when watching Bluray disks, so I am very curious about the comments here and want to make sure I'm not replacing my current UST with another with similar problems.
> 
> An example of what I am seeing is: at random times about every minute or two, I will see what seems like a single frame missing and the action/motion on screen just looks clunky. It's extremely distracting, and only appears to be happening when watching Blurays (streaming Disney+, Netflix, HBOMax do not appear to show this). If this UST will have similar issues, I'd might have to go back to the drawing board.


@manwithnoname The stuttering problem is only present when playing a video in BD 4k DV - 24p (top gun ... 007 ....) The problem without the motion function for these contents is unwatchable .... While for all BD contents (fullhd SDR / 4k HDR) with MEMC set to low ... all perfect. Obviously the DV contained in the streaming movies will not have any problem as they are natively reproduced at 60hz.


----------



## shanedowley

Brajesh said:


> Spent about 4 hours testing T1 today, and comparing w/Wemax A300, and have decided to go back to A300. Wish I could cherry pick what each does well & mold it into a new super UST . Had expected going into this that I'd end up keeping the T1 for most content, and getting a cheap secondary 1080p front projector for 3D.
> 
> It has been an unexpected UST journey for me. Started w/the original Xiaomi 4K 2+ years ago, then to A300, to VAVA Chroma, to T1, and now back to A300. The wider, vivid color range w/Chroma & T1 impress, but are also overcooked, and you miss the color accuracy & more natural flesh tones. T1 is noticeably better than Chroma on blacks, but A300 holds its own vs. T1. A300's focus uniformity and sharpness are noticeably better than T1 & Chroma's. What's I'll miss is the T1's MEMC, which on low setting I think does a good job smoothing out 24p content, addressing judder. With Chroma, MEMC introduces soap opera effect. The biggest issue w/Chroma is ghosting, which is really noticeable in dark scenes or clouds.
> 
> Have considered Xiaomi C2, but don't think it's going to be much of an 'upgrade' over A300, especially as it doesn't support 3D, and I have HDFury VRROOM that really boosts A300's performance. Using Zidoo Z9X and being able to enjoy DV content, and even apply Zidoo's Dolby VS10 engine to non-DV content, routed via HDFury to A300 is a great combo. Plus, keeping 3D support. The only negative is dealing w/some judder w/MEMC missing from A300.
> 
> Hope you all enjoy your T1's... it's an excellent projector that will only improve w/firmware updates. Lot of solid options with UST's... really comes down to preferences, priorities for each of us. I need to stop being addicted to this section of the forum & being tempted by new UST's  !


Your A300 set up as described is as close to perfect as I think you can get. Especially that you can also enjoy 3D with it. I had an A300 combined w HD Fury Vertex2 and loved it. I’ve also had the Fengmi C2 but that was a mistake! Anyway in the last month I’ve moved to the Xiaomi C2 and am pleased w it. It’s a more finished and rounded product than the Fengmi T1. I'm a stickler for colour accuracy, and I know that the T1 would bother me in time due to this. 

Well done on tuning your A300 to such a high performance, plus getting the use of DV content using the Zidoo: Great job! I’ve gone for convenience w the Xiaomi C2. I don't need the HD Fury anymore. The C2’s handling of SDR, HDR and DV just ‘works’ for me. My only regret is no 3D w the Xiaomi C2.


----------



## indieke2

esegan said:


> What color accuracy of Xiaomi C2 do you write about? You look at Gregory's measurements of the color space. It is worse than Fengmi C2. T1 has a red tint in DV, but it is most likely associated with a shift in the white scale. If the manufacturer corrects the red hue or adds custom RGB settings of the white scale, then the situation with red will improve or it will be possible to correct the white scale settings itself. Also Xiaomi C2 has a smaller color coverage of 81.8% of DCI-P3 and REC. 2020 about 63%. This means that T1 is more ready to display HDR and DV. As far as I understand, Grigory did not even post the HDR and DV measurement graphs, which makes you wonder what he is hiding.
> View attachment 3233107


I do not know, and where I follow you, that he is not always right. His review is not yet on line though. What I do know is, that he loved the Fengmi C2. I am not so difficult s most, but that projector was very good, in SR, but in HDR, it was awful to get something decent out of it. Yes with a Panasonic BD player, or MadVr, but many complaints with almost anything else. Brightness suffered a lot and no way to get a balance with changing the contrast. 

Xiaomi C 2, was the new favorite. Wat I understand same in SR, but then it had Dolby vision (where not complains about reddish tint ), and HDR seemed not a problem, as balancing in that mode, which is not the case of the Fengmi C2. Weird enough, he always denied that the Fengmi C 2 not balanced to HDR, and almost called me a fool, and doing "human error". Since I announced, HDR was problematic, all my messages are deleted, and ....other users complained about the same thing. He then wrote an article about HDR, and why you had to adapt your projector to it.

When he better could have stated the projector, not adapted to HDR and not did the tone-mapping, but his Panasonic did. The Xiaomi C 2 he stated had not the same problem he said now, but why did he denied the problem on the fengmi in the first place? Sad is, I always had a good internet relation with him, in fact liked his reviews, but now I am Persona non grata. By the way the box of the Fengmi C2 NOT mention HDR logo. 

A problem he already covered of T1 is that as the Fengmi C2 , did not adapt well to HDR. Euh?

For the rest we will wait his opinion. It takes a bit longer then usual. I still respect him and he does a good job, but a bit too much focused about his own opinion, and other one's not count always, like review in other places. Sorry "Krane", nothing against you, and will look forward to the review anyway.


----------



## shanedowley

For fun this morning I connected my HD Fury Vertex2 between my sources and the Xiaomi C2 to have a look at the EDID and DV data that the projector reports. Under the 'DV' tab of the Vertex2's web interface, the C2's reported Dolby Vision EDID Data Block is:

DV Version: 2
DV DM Version: reserved
DV Interface: standard and low latency 422 12bit
2160p60: supported
YUV422 12bit: not supported
Global Dimming: not supported
Backlight Control: not supported, default 100 nits
RED Primary: 0.652, 0.336
GREEN Primary: 0.313, 0.617
BLUE Primary: 0.148, 0.031
MAX/MIN Luminance: 175 / 0.086 nits
HEX String: EB:01:46:d0:00:48:63:22:A0:3C:3E:B0

If anyone here has a HD Fury device, it would be interesting to see what the T1 reports as its Dolby Vision EDID data block and how they compare.

Interestingly, you can see in the data, that the C2's max luminance is 175 nits (which is pretty good for any projector!). Also you can see that the x,y coordinates of the C2's primaries are between that of Rec709 and DCI P3. This is in line with the reported colour volume of the device. For reference the official primaries for each of rec709, DCI P3 and BT2020 are:

*Rec709 Primaries*
RED Primary X: 0.640
RED primary Y: 0.330
GREEN primary X: 0.300
GREEN primary Y: 0.600
BLUE primary X: 0.150
BLUE primary Y: 0.060

*DCI P3 Primaries*
RED Primary X: 0.680
RED primary Y: 0.320
GREEN primary X: 0.265
GREEN primary Y: 0.690
BLUE primary X: 0.150
BLUE primary Y: 0.060

*BT2020 Primaries *
RED Primary X: 0.708
RED primary Y: 0.292
GREEN primary X: 0.170
GREEN primary Y: 0.797
BLUE primary X: 0.131
BLUE primary Y: 0.046


----------



## abaintor

shanedowley said:


> DV Interface: standard and low latency 422 12bit
> YUV422 12bit: not supported


Hi, interesting feedback. I don't understand how YUV 12 bits would not be supported when dolby vision with 422 12 bits is ?


----------



## shanedowley

abaintor said:


> Hi, interesting feedback. I don't understand how YUV 12 bits would not be supported when dolby vision with 422 12 bits is ?


Yes, this threw me at first but then on further reading, learned this is how displays handle the DV signal: Dolby Vision uses RGB Tunneling to transport the signal over HDMI from source to display. The 12-bit DV signal and metadata is encapsulated inside a regular RGB 8-bit video signal and the DV tunneling carries the 12-bit YCbCr 4:2:2 data in an RGB 4:4:4 8-bit transport. So it’s functioning the way it’s supposed to. Technically it's possible for DV to be sent over HDMI v 1.4, but in reality, HDMI v2.0 is needed due to the required HDCP v2.2 encryption. At the HDMI EDID handshake, the display signals the source that it supports Dolby Vision "tunneling". The source then signals the display that it's transmitting Dolby Vision through an AVI Infoframe, which triggers the Dolby Vision mode in the display. The display's DV engine extracts the components and produces a tone mapped image.


----------



## EvilEuro

I wrote to the folks at Nothing But Label and asked about their calibration service that they're offering. I asked specifically because Fengmi had confirmed that there is no advanced colour management settings on the T1. So I asked to what extent and degree are they calibrating the T1 before they ship it out if someone pays for the service. Their reply:

"Thank you for your interest in our calibration service.

You are corrected the customizable settings on Fengmi is not as many as other popular brands. We will tune the RGB gain, saturation, brightness to achieve the best settings on both HDR and SDR.

Our calibrator is not ISF certified so we don't advertise it but he is experienced. The whole process would take about 3hrs."

So it's not a full ISF calibration. It is more a measured tweaking of the items which can be adjusted via the options allowed by Fengmi.

So there's the FYI on that in case anyone was looking to have the calibration service performed on their T1 if they purchase through Nothing But Label.


----------



## shanedowley

Just a thought: For those of you keen to have both the MEMC feature and Dolby Vision working together on the T1, if you have a HD Fury device like the Diva or Vertex2, you could configure and use a Custom EDID table to present the T1 as a low latency Dolby Vision compatible (LLDV) display. You can set the relevant luminance and colour space settings on the HD Fury. Your DV enabled sources connected to the T1 will then see this and enable 'player led' Dolby Vision (LLDV) at their end, sending dynamically tone-mapped video. Because this form of DV is player led and not display led, you should have all the usual T1 features like MEMC and picture settings available like you have when watching regular SDR or HDR content.


----------



## tovaxxx

On the Xiaomi C2, the MEMC did not work for me. Clearly the movement was smoother but for that visible soap effect. And I hate any soap effect. I believe that the MEMC is identical for both (C2 & T1).


----------



## DeanM3

Over the past two weeks I've experimented with MEMC and just can't keep it on. Totally ruins the experience for me.

I also think Office/View mode are too bright for me with the T1. My room is fully light controlled and watching 1-2hours on office/view is a bit fatiguing for me. Anyone else feel this way? Night/Silent mode are much more pleasing for me I think these projectors have gotten bright enough and the lumens race is overblown at this point.


----------



## eezrider

DeanM3 said:


> Over the past two weeks I've experimented with MEMC and just can't keep it on. Totally ruins the experience for me.
> 
> I also think Office/View mode are too bright for me with the T1. My room is fully light controlled and watching 1-2hours on office/view is a bit fatiguing for me. Anyone else feel this way? Night/Silent mode are much more pleasing for me I think these projectors have gotten bright enough and the lumens race is overblown at this point.


Are you watching on an ALR screen? I have a 0.6 gain screen and need the brightness of Office mode. My room is not light controlled, but do try to keep light as dim as possible


----------



## humax

DeanM3 said:


> Over the past two weeks I've experimented with MEMC and just can't keep it on. Totally ruins the experience for me.



Could it be that Dolby themselves will not allow FI to be used in their certified preset modes in order to maintain a cinematic purity to the image?




DeanM3 said:


> I also think Office/View mode are too bright for me with the T1. My room is fully light controlled and watching 1-2hours on office/view is a bit fatiguing for me. Anyone else feel this way? Night/Silent mode are much more pleasing for me I think these projectors have gotten bright enough and the lumens race is overblown at this point.



It seems that a 0.4 gain screen is a better fit for this projector, since it is brighter and does not max out ALPD contrast ratio.



Here is also a new promo from a Thai store:

รีวิว Formovie (Fengmi) T1 Tri-laser color 4K Ultra Short Throw Projector - YouTube


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

DeanM3 said:


> Over the past two weeks I've experimented with MEMC and just can't keep it on. Totally ruins the experience for me.
> 
> I also think Office/View mode are too bright for me with the T1. My room is fully light controlled and watching 1-2hours on office/view is a bit fatiguing for me. Anyone else feel this way? Night/Silent mode are much more pleasing for me I think these projectors have gotten bright enough and the lumens race is overblown at this point.


I am the opposite, I dont think its as bright as I expected. Even with a ALR screen it can be washed out easy by light.
Viewable sure, but not nearly the "tv like" presentation I expected with a high brightness UST with an ALR screen

It's plenty good enough once I draw the curtains though, the dark tone mapping is bad in HDR but that is how the video is being presented not a representation of the brightness.


----------



## CabbageMan

ViciousXUSMC said:


> I am the opposite, I dont think its as bright as I expected. Even with a ALR screen it can be washed out easy by light.
> Viewable sure, but not nearly the "tv like" presentation I expected with a high brightness UST with an ALR screen
> 
> It's plenty good enough once I draw the curtains though, the dark tone mapping is bad in HDR but that is how the video is being presented not a representation of the brightness.


How is the brightness when there is no or minimal sunlight but you have the lights on in your room?


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

CabbageMan said:


> How is the brightness when there is no or minimal sunlight but you have the lights on in your room?


I guess it really depends on the content. Blacks are blacks and thats the part that gets washed out the most. If I put up the focus screen to project white, its pretty bright even up against sunlight.
Then colors fall in between.

Dont get me wrong I prefer this to a TV 1000% because rather than a washed out screen it was reflections, and that is sooo much worse.
I could not even turn on my lights by the couch with the TV, would see them reflected on the screen with the TV.

That is why I light controlled the room, and it just so happened to be a great benefit going forward.

Will take some pictures later.


----------



## eezrider

shanedowley said:


> Just a thought: For those of you keen to have both the MEMC feature and Dolby Vision working together on the T1, if you have a HD Fury device like the Diva or Vertex2, you could configure and use a Custom EDID table to present the T1 as a low latency Dolby Vision compatible (LLDV) display. You can set the relevant luminance and colour space settings on the HD Fury. Your DV enabled sources connected to the T1 will then see this and enable 'player led' Dolby Vision (LLDV) at their end, sending dynamically tone-mapped video. Because this form of DV is player led and not display led, you should have all the usual T1 features like MEMC and picture settings available like you have when watching regular SDR or HDR content.


Do you mean configure as LLDV only? The T1 is already reporting that it is DV and LLDV compatible in the EDID. I'm also not sure how to interpret what you're suggesting as I use an XBOX One X and it supports DV (LLDV as I understand) for streaming, and when it sends DV content to the T1 the T1 switches to DV mode (evidenced by the limited light/dark options no MEMC). I don't understand how your suggestion would result in a different outcome. I thought the HDFury trick was about sending LLDV content to an HDR10-only display. Wouldn't you need to somehow cause the T1 not to recognize the LLDV signal as such but to treat it as HDR10?


----------



## Tanizhq

DeanM3 said:


> I think these projectors have gotten bright enough and the lumens race is overblown at this point.


Just because thats the case for you doesn't mean everyone else is in the same room. My living room has large windows on 2 sides of it, 2800 lumens is barely enough for daytime viewing for me


----------



## JackB

Shanedowley,

It seems that the weakness of these Chinese USTs, Xiaomi, Fengimi, etc., is that they don't provide access to all the tools to do an ISF level calibration. From what I read the Hisense projectors provide most of this capability and the results have been very good. Their issue seems to be that they don't have access to the Appotronics module.

Many experts have been able to chase these adjustment tools through the service menu on many TVs. It seems that with all the pro computer specialists on these threads there would be someone who could crack this barrier. What do you think?


----------



## abaintor

eezrider said:


> Do you mean configure as LLDV only? The T1 is already reporting that it is DV and LLDV compatible in the EDID. I'm also not sure how to interpret what you're suggesting as I use an XBOX One X and it supports DV (LLDV as I understand) for streaming, and when it sends DV content to the T1 the T1 switches to DV mode (evidenced by the limited light/dark options no MEMC). I don't understand how your suggestion would result in a different outcome. I thought the HDFury trick was about sending LLDV content to an HDR10-only display. Wouldn't you need to somehow cause the T1 not to recognize the LLDV signal as such but to treat it as HDR10?


Yes exactly. I guess that you have to trick the output edid sent to the projector to remove all references to dv. I don’t know if it is possible


----------



## Malaveae

Fengmi T1 vs Hisense 88L9F 
Found this in chineese: 投影机评测 峰米T1决战海信88L9F_什么值得买


----------



## DeanM3

ViciousXUSMC said:


> I am the opposite, I dont think its as bright as I expected. Even with a ALR screen it can be washed out easy by light.
> Viewable sure, but not nearly the "tv like" presentation I expected with a high brightness UST with an ALR screen
> 
> It's plenty good enough once I draw the curtains though, the dark tone mapping is bad in HDR but that is how the video is being presented not a representation of the brightness.


I should have provided more details. I'm projecting at 100 inches and exclusively watch content in a completely dark room. I don't do any daytime content watching other than my OLED. In my scenario the night mode provides the best level of brightness for my tastes.

An increase from 100 to 120 inches would mean the same light output is spread over a 44% larger area so I can imagine those running at 120 inches would have a different opinion.


----------



## zaselim

Malaveae said:


> Fengmi T1 vs Hisense 88L9F
> Found this in chineese: 投影机评测 峰米T1决战海信88L9F_什么值得买


I really wanna see a Fengmi T1 vs Hisense L9g or Vs new PX-1 Pro. I had my mind set on Hisense PX-1 Pro when I found about T1 but seeing as it has red tint issue so i am waiting for the review to decide what to go for.


----------



## aerodynamics

JackB said:


> Shanedowley,
> 
> It seems that the weakness of these Chinese USTs, Xiaomi, Fengimi, etc., is that they don't provide access to all the tools to do an ISF level calibration. From what I read the Hisense projectors provide most of this capability and the results have been very good. Their issue seems to be that they don't have access to the Appotronics module.
> 
> Many experts have been able to chase these adjustment tools through the service menu on many TVs. It seems that with all the pro computer specialists on these threads there would be someone who could crack this barrier. What do you think?


That person goes by @spocky12 on this forum.


----------



## eezrider

zaselim said:


> I really wanna see a Fengmi T1 vs Hisense L9g or Vs new PX-1 Pro. I had my mind set on Hisense PX-1 Pro when I found about T1 but seeing as it has red tint issue so i am waiting got the review to decide what to go for.


I think this red tint issue keeps getting overblown. I have not seen any such issue on any DV content yet. We've seen a couple of examples posted but no consistent evidence of this. The Silent Sea example was complete nonsense.


----------



## shanedowley

abaintor said:


> Yes exactly. I guess that you have to trick the output edid sent to the projector to remove all references to dv. I don’t know if it is possible


As a design, Dolby Vision is a complete content workflow system, specifying content mastering, delivery and rendering. It’s much more than just a proprietary HDR display capability. Under normal circumstances when playing DV content we are ‘locked into’ this workflow and this is why the usual image setting options on DV displays are disabled in order to preserve the intended characteristics of the DV content. However there are two types of DV display technologies that have evolved over time, Standard (display led) and LLDV (player led). By default, devices like the T1 and the Xiaomi C2, use the Standard version of DV and so are locked for setting changes when playing DV content. By using devices like the HD Fury Vertex2 we can change the EDID data (as a hack) to switch to player led (LLDV) instead and so essentially break out of the locked DV workflow and make changes on the display’s settings.


----------



## lattiboy

eezrider said:


> I think this red tint issue keeps getting overblown. I have not seen any such issue on any DV content yet. We've seen a couple of examples posted but no consistent evidence of this. The Silent Sea example was complete nonsense.


As a big fan of this projector I think the biggest issue by far is color accuracy. Yes, dark office mode doesn’t have the red push issue, but it does introduce a pink/purple overall tint I don’t care for. The whole point of DV is that color and tonemapping are predefined and essentially perfect, but the T1 has its own look that sometimes is great and sometimes weird and off.

I really am hoping for this to be improved with an update, but Xaomi/Fengmi don’t have a great track record here. HDR10 is… okay, but requires you to adjust brightness/contrast for each movie if you want the best experience.

Again, I believe this is truly the best projector available at practically any price for raw picture quality, but we shouldn’t downplay the real short comings it has. Frankly, I understand if Gregory does not recommend this for most users. It’s for the hard-core nerds like AVS forum posters willing to spend hours and hours figuring out the tricks to make it look as good as it can. If you “set it and forget it” type of person the Xaomi C2 is probably the best PJ for you.

PS I stopped using Dolby Vision always on because with some lower quality content like YouTube videos and average looking SDR it could introduce weird color shifts and overall image darkness. It’s still excellent for HDR10 and higher quality SDR stuff though.


----------



## shanedowley

For any given display that has even slightly inaccurate colours to begin with, the wider the gamut of colour it is asked to render (like BT2020), the more accentuated and noticeable these inaccuracies become.


----------



## DeanM3

lattiboy said:


> As a big fan of this projector I think the biggest issue by far is color accuracy. Yes, dark office mode doesn’t have the red push issue, but it does introduce a pink/purple overall tint I don’t care for. The whole point of DV is that color and tonemapping are predefined and essentially perfect, but the T1 has its own look that sometimes is great and sometimes weird and off.


To clarify this is color accuracy for DV mode. Color accuracy in regular HDR and SDR is great if using a custom mode. If Fengmi can fix the accuracy in DV mode this is an absolute home run at the price.

I'm still wowed by the colors and pop on the T1 after about 40 hours of use.


----------



## lattiboy

DeanM3 said:


> To clarify this is color accuracy for DV mode. Color accuracy in regular HDR and SDR is great if using a custom mode. If Fengmi can fix the accuracy in DV mode this is an absolute home run at the price.
> 
> I'm still wowed by the colors and pop on the T1 after about 40 hours of use.


Yes, but HDR tonemapping is below average without DV, so you have to adjust per movie a lot of the time. Not a huge deal, but not something most people would be excited to do.

I’m going to post a list of all issues I’ve experienced so we can confirm any issues as exclusive to certain units or universal:

1) HDMI gets weird after a few reboots of the PJ and you have to change the HDMI function to get proper 4K 60Hz. This has happened with my Roku Ultra, PS5, and Shield TV.

2) weird red skin tones in random scenes in View mode DV. Not present in office/dark modes…. but they introduce a pink/purple tint. And bright modes tend to intensify existing effect of color shifts.

3) No devices I’ve used properly shut down the T1, they put it in standby mode, but fans running in standby is annoying and shouldn’t be necessary.

4) Dynamic contrast has seemingly no effect, meaning it’s either always on or always off. Same for “picture quality enhancement” in the main menu image section. EDIT: it does do a lot, but I can only see any real effect in night mode. Big improvement there IMO

5) Laser speckle is mostly well controlled, but the Bomaker Polaris had zero speckle, so I know they can do better.

6) Only way to adjust brightness is with the four modes, but they all have a distinct color shift, which requires different settings. Movie and night are the best in my opinion, but having a simple laser brightness slider would be ideal.

7) Only one custom image settings slot! No easy way to go from View to Night without changing custom settings individually. Maybe the biggest problem of all.

8) No automatic HDR image modes, like my previous LG, Hisense and Bomaker PJs had.

That’s all I got for now. Feel free to ad.


----------



## DeanM3

#4 is exactly how dynamic contrast worked on my previous Xiaomi device. Is it expected to work differently. 

9) Adjustable color temp on game mode.


----------



## mirkmito

First contact


----------



## ngcoolman

mirkmito said:


> First contact


In my opinion, T1 in his video looks excellent. Take jolt as an example, Gregory has previously posted a video comparison of xiaomi c2 and hisense trichroma laser tv (supposed l9?), which clearly shows c2 superiority in contrast and color accuracy. If we compare that video to the current t1 video, t1 contrast is close to c2 and colors also very similar but t1 being slightly more vibrant.


----------



## ngcoolman

lattiboy said:


> Yes, but HDR tonemapping is below average without DV, so you have to adjust per movie a lot of the time. Not a huge deal, but not something most people would be excited to do.
> 
> I’m going to post a list of all issues I’ve experienced so we can confirm any issues as exclusive to certain units or universal:
> 
> 1) HDMI gets weird after a few reboots of the PJ and you have to change the HDMI function to get proper 4K 60Hz. This has happened with my Roku Ultra, PS5, and Shield TV.
> 
> 2) weird red skin tones in random scenes in View mode DV. Not present in office/dark modes…. but they introduce a pink/purple tint. And bright modes tend to intensify existing effect of color shifts.
> 
> 3) No devices I’ve used properly shut down the T1, they put it in standby mode, but fans running in standby is annoying and shouldn’t be necessary.
> 
> 4) Dynamic contrast has seemingly no effect, meaning it’s either always on or always off. Same for “picture quality enhancement” in the main menu image section.
> 
> 5) Laser speckle is mostly well controlled, but the Bomaker Polaris had zero speckle, so I know they can do better.
> 
> 6) Only way to adjust brightness is with the four modes, but they all have a distinct color shift, which requires different settings. Movie and night are the best in my opinion, but having a simple laser brightness slider would be ideal.
> 
> 7) Only one custom image settings slot! No easy way to go from View to Night without changing custom settings individually. Maybe the biggest problem of all.
> 
> 8) No automatic HDR image modes, like my previous LG, Hisense and Bomaker PJs had.
> 
> That’s all I got for now. Feel free to ad.


Great summary.

Dynamic contrast works for me when I am viewing cable tv content. But its effect on streaming service seems to be minimal or even none existent.


----------



## ngcoolman

lattiboy said:


> As a big fan of this projector I think the biggest issue by far is color accuracy. Yes, dark office mode doesn’t have the red push issue, but it does introduce a pink/purple overall tint I don’t care for. The whole point of DV is that color and tonemapping are predefined and essentially perfect, but the T1 has its own look that sometimes is great and sometimes weird and off.
> 
> I really am hoping for this to be improved with an update, but Xaomi/Fengmi don’t have a great track record here. HDR10 is… okay, but requires you to adjust brightness/contrast for each movie if you want the best experience.
> 
> Again, I believe this is truly the best projector available at practically any price for raw picture quality, but we shouldn’t downplay the real short comings it has. Frankly, I understand if Gregory does not recommend this for most users. It’s for the hard-core nerds like AVS forum posters willing to spend hours and hours figuring out the tricks to make it look as good as it can. If you “set it and forget it” type of person the Xaomi C2 is probably the best PJ for you.
> 
> PS I stopped using Dolby Vision always on because with some lower quality content like YouTube videos and average looking SDR it could introduce weird color shifts and overall image darkness. It’s still excellent for HDR10 and higher quality SDR stuff though.


Would you mind telling me what's count as average sdr content? Non-hd one? I am planning to buy a chromecast with google tv today to get the force dv function, I only watch minimal fullHD-quality content from Netflix, Disney plus, Apple tv and some other Asian streaming services.


----------



## lattiboy

ngcoolman said:


> Would you mind telling me what's count as average sdr content? Non-hd one? I am planning to buy a chromecast with google tv today to get the force dv function, I only watch minimal fullHD-quality content from Netflix, Disney plus, Apple tv and some other Asian streaming services.


I ran into it on some random live stream and on some local news clips. I reverted to DV just now and I may stay with it. We’ll filmed or high quality stuff is usually very good.


----------



## jorgemurillo2012

pionoor said:


> They actually sell it for $2120. Just placed an order.
> View attachment 3217511


U got a Link??


----------



## lattiboy

I was watching inside out in Dolby Vision on Disney+ and got an interesting example of….. something.

First of all, the movie on this projector is unbelievable. I have never seen colors like this in my entire existence. I know it was one of the few movies to use full BT 2020, and it really shows. I want to encourage everyone to check it out and be absolutely dazzled. This photo doesn’t do it justice as you can’t capture the glow in camera. Night mode dark gave the best results:



















However, both the character Anger and the unicorn hair use a shade of red that’s clearly not working right. And when you pause and the area around that color darkens, you can see the underlying texture as it should be seen. This happened in all brightness modes and it’s more exaggerated in person viewing because of how insane the colors are in this thing.


----------



## zoomx2

ngcoolman said:


> Have you tried the glassblow demo from dolby website? I did see the more than natural red face in that demo when I play it on USB. But I think the issue was overblown and misunderstood by many who didn't own the T1. I think quite a lot of people thought it was the whole image was too red all the time which was not the case. It is usually scene specific and even when it happens, it is not the whole picture suffering from it but a very specific area (e.g. faces redder than normal, white clothes look a bit redder than normal..etc). And why we think it is fw fixable because the same face of clothes may look normal again in the next scene. What make the misunderstanding worse is that most of the photos we took have a red cast which was not seen in person.


I just finished Sing2 with my family. I have to admit T1 produces solid colour and contrast, I don't expect a projector can make such vibrant colour. It is well worth the price and B&W sounds very good as well. Atmos speakers also make a difference.


----------



## shanedowley

Looks like both the T1 and C2’s HDMI EDID handshaking is broken. Haven’t yet found a consistent work-around. Setting the projector HDMI version to 2.0 seems better than Auto. On Auto, my Panasonic Blu-ray player doesn’t recognise the projector as Dolby Vision capable and drops down to SDR.

Both products feel rushed out to market before these various issues were ironed out. Most probably pushed out for Christmas and Chinese New Year sales. A shame really as both are excellent pieces of hardware let down by poor software implementation.


----------



## indieke2

lattiboy said:


> Yes, but HDR tonemapping is below average without DV, so you have to adjust per movie a lot of the time. Not a huge deal, but not something most people would be excited to do.
> 
> I’m going to post a list of all issues I’ve experienced so we can confirm any issues as exclusive to certain units or universal:
> 
> 1) HDMI gets weird after a few reboots of the PJ and you have to change the HDMI function to get proper 4K 60Hz. This has happened with my Roku Ultra, PS5, and Shield TV.
> 
> 2) weird red skin tones in random scenes in View mode DV. Not present in office/dark modes…. but they introduce a pink/purple tint. And bright modes tend to intensify existing effect of color shifts.
> 
> 3) No devices I’ve used properly shut down the T1, they put it in standby mode, but fans running in standby is annoying and shouldn’t be necessary.
> 
> 4) Dynamic contrast has seemingly no effect, meaning it’s either always on or always off. Same for “picture quality enhancement” in the main menu image section. EDIT: it does do a lot, but I can only see any real effect in night mode. Big improvement there IMO
> 
> 5) Laser speckle is mostly well controlled, but the Bomaker Polaris had zero speckle, so I know they can do better.
> 
> 6) Only way to adjust brightness is with the four modes, but they all have a distinct color shift, which requires different settings. Movie and night are the best in my opinion, but having a simple laser brightness slider would be ideal.
> 
> 7) Only one custom image settings slot! No easy way to go from View to Night without changing custom settings individually. Maybe the biggest problem of all.
> 
> 8) No automatic HDR image modes, like my previous LG, Hisense and Bomaker PJs had.
> 
> That’s all I got for now. Feel free to ad.


I still not understand. First impressions of Gregory, not great. You seem to like the projector a lot, yet that colour problem and also adjusting HDR (reason I sold my Fengmi C2), is not what I am looking for.

Is it then so bad to say, better not buy an unfinished product, and buy the XIAOMI C 2 instead? That one handles HDR well and colors are stated natural. Is not the complete coverage of Rec 2020 the only reason not to by the Xiaomi?
Looks like both the T1 and C2’s HDMI EDID handshaking is broken. Haven’t yet found a consistent work-around. Setting the projector HDMI version to 2.0 seems better than Auto. On Auto, my Panasonic Blu-ray player doesn’t recognise the projector as Dolby Vision capable and drops down to SDR.



> Both products feel rushed out to market before these various issues were ironed out. Most probably pushed out for Christmas and Chinese New Year sales. A shame really as both are excellent pieces of hardware let down by poor software implementation.


You mean the Xiaomi C2. I had that handshake problem with the Fengmi C2. I thought HDR was automatic, on the Xiaomi, just like on televisions....


----------



## shanedowley

lattiboy said:


> 1) HDMI gets weird after a few reboots of the PJ and you have to change the HDMI function to get proper 4K 60Hz. This has happened with my Roku Ultra, PS5, and Shield TV.


I think what you're experiencing here relates to what I've posted above regarding the T1's (and Xiaomi C2's) broken handling of HDMI EDID handshaking.


----------



## shanedowley

indieke2 said:


> I still not understand. First impressions of Gregory, not great. You seem to like the projector a lot, yet that colour problem and also adjusting HDR (reason I sold my Fengmi C2), is not what I am looking for.
> 
> Is it then so bad to say, better not buy an unfinished product, and buy the XIAOMI C 2 instead? That one handles HDR well and colors are stated natural. Is not the complete coverage of Rec 2020 the only reason not to by the Xiaomi?
> Looks like both the T1 and C2’s HDMI EDID handshaking is broken. Haven’t yet found a consistent work-around. Setting the projector HDMI version to 2.0 seems better than Auto. On Auto, my Panasonic Blu-ray player doesn’t recognise the projector as Dolby Vision capable and drops down to SDR.
> 
> 
> 
> You mean the Xiaomi C2. I had that handshake problem with the Fengmi C2. I thought HDR was automatic, on the Xiaomi, just like on televisions....


Yes, I’m referring to the Xiaomi C2. Like you I also had the Fengmi C2 and sold it as I ended up watching content only in SDR due to its poor / non-dynamic handling of HDR.
Have since replaced it with the Xiaomi C2. Overall I’m very happy with the Xiaomi C2 — when it works right, it’s fantastic: It handles SDR, HDR and DV all automatically and it’s a joy. But when it gets itself in this HDMI handshaking knot it’s a real pain. Still searching for a work-around…


----------



## CabbageMan

Hey everyone, my T1 is coming on Friday. Super excited. Can you guys give me your recommended picture settings? It’ll be in a dark, light controlled room.


----------



## tnaik4

To be honest, most T1 shortcomings seems to be on the software side, a grey scale/CMS/ laser slider settings would solve most issues.
I really like what this projector offer but there is no excuse not to include these basic settings in 2022, i guess the T2 will probably has it all.
I ll keep an eye in case they release a firmware update to fix these things.


----------



## lattiboy

shanedowley said:


> Yes, I’m referring to the Xiaomi C2. Like you I also had the Fengmi C2 and sold it as I ended up watching content only in SDR due to its poor / non-dynamic handling of HDR.
> Have since replaced it with the Xiaomi C2. Overall I’m very happy with the Xiaomi C2 — when it works right, it’s fantastic: It handles SDR, HDR and DV all automatically and it’s a joy. But when it gets itself in this HDMI handshaking knot it’s a real pain. Still searching for a work-around…


Switching from 2.1 to 2.0 and then then back to 2.1 has fixed it for me every time. It’s not a huge deal, but one more annoying quirk.


----------



## mirkmito

If you want to encourage us to improve the device you have to report anything to Formovie support ... Me and even the Australian shop Nothingbutlabel have reported the bugs and improvements to be included in the next fw ... (hdr10+ / DV / Colometry....)


----------



## lattiboy

indieke2 said:


> I still not understand. First impressions of Gregory, not great. You seem to like the projector a lot, yet that colour problem and also adjusting HDR (reason I sold my Fengmi C2), is not what I am looking for.
> 
> Is it then so bad to say, better not buy an unfinished product, and buy the XIAOMI C 2 instead? That one handles HDR well and colors are stated natural. Is not the complete coverage of Rec 2020 the only reason not to by the Xiaomi?
> Looks like both the T1 and C2’s HDMI EDID handshaking is broken. Haven’t yet found a consistent work-around. Setting the projector HDMI version to 2.0 seems better than Auto. On Auto, my Panasonic Blu-ray player doesn’t recognise the projector as Dolby Vision capable and drops down to SDR.
> 
> 
> 
> You mean the Xiaomi C2. I had that handshake problem with the Fengmi C2. I thought HDR was automatic, on the Xiaomi, just like on televisions....


It does automatically switch to Dolby Vision and HDR no problem, the issue is you have to then pick the correct settings for that format. For instance changing the brightness mode from “view” for SDR/HDR10 to “office” when DV is being played. That takes about 5 seconds. 

HDR works perfectly fine, but it’s not anywhere near DV, which shows off what the projector is capable of. You don’t “have” to adjust HDR for each movie, but it’s sometimes worth it to get the most out of the T1

I picked the T1 over the C2 because it produces an absolutely incredible and vivid picture and I am
willing to switch the settings when I need to. Also, forcing Dolby Vision for everything is an option that produces excellent quality 90% of the time.

As I said before, I don’t know that I would recommend this projector to the general public in its current state. A lot of less technically inclined people might find it annoying or exhausting to babysit the settings, but I have been dealing with oddball electronics for decades.

If they just adjust the Dolby Vision rendering and add a basic CMS + brightness slider this immediately becomes the only projector I would ever recommend. Feel free to look through this thread to everybody who *actually has a T1* and the first post after using it inevitably involves the word “WOW!”


----------



## Ricoflashback

lattiboy said:


> It does automatically switch to Dolby Vision and HDR no problem, the issue is you have to then pick the correct settings for that format. For instance changing the brightness mode from “view” for SDR/HDR10 to “office” when DV is being played. That takes about 5 seconds.
> 
> HDR works perfectly fine, but it’s not anywhere near DV, which shows off what the projector is capable of. You don’t “have” to adjust HDR for each movie, but it’s sometimes worth it to get the most out of the T1
> 
> I picked the T1 over the C2 because it produces an absolutely incredible and vivid picture and I am
> willing to switch the settings when I need to. Also, forcing Dolby Vision for everything is an option that produces excellent quality 90% of the time.
> 
> As I said before, I don’t know that I would recommend this projector to the general public in its current state. A lot of less technically inclined people might find it annoying or exhausting to babysit the settings, but I have been dealing with oddball electronics for decades.
> 
> If they just adjust the Dolby Vision rendering and add a basic CMS + brightness slider this immediately becomes the only projector I would ever recommend. Feel free to look through this thread to everybody who *actually has a T1* and the first post after using it inevitably involves the word “WOW!”


Maybe the international version with ALPD 5.0 will fix these issues.


----------



## zoomx2

Please let me know any UST in the market with a similar price range to make such a colour. I would like to replace my T1.


----------



## CabbageMan

zoomx2 said:


> Please let me know any UST in the market with a similar price range to make such a colour. I would like to replace my T1.
> 
> View attachment 3233991
> 
> View attachment 3233989
> 
> View attachment 3233988
> 
> View attachment 3233990
> 
> View attachment 3233987


Seemed like your previous comments alluded to you enjoying the projector. What changed?


----------



## zoomx2

CabbageMan said:


> Seemed like your previous comments alluded to you enjoying the projector. What changed?


Haha, I was so close to buy an Epson 300 at Xmas, glad to make the right call for T1.


----------



## lattiboy

I just submitted a detailed list of all my problems to Formovie. Here’s the link to submit a ticket, or you can email to [email protected]


----------



## abaintor

Did you mention memc missing in dolby vision ?


----------



## mirkmito

Also write on Facebook .... I'm hammering them 😁


----------



## shanedowley

lattiboy said:


> I just submitted a detailed list of all my problems to Formovie. Here’s the link to submit a ticket, or you can email to [email protected]


Good call and thanks. 
I emailed [email protected] today regarding the C2’s issue with HDMI EDID handshaking and pointed out that a similar behaviour is apparent on the T1.


----------



## humax

Ricoflashback said:


> Maybe the international version with ALPD 5.0 will fix these issues.



There is no indication the international version will have ALPD 5.0. It will surely have Android and Google services, perhaps even 3D enabled. It is not even sure it will hit the same contrast numbers as the Chinese version. As for firmware fixes, IMHO the best one can wait is a fix for DV red push. Full CMS? Not likely to happen. Like someone mentioned at some point there will be a second version of this and I am doubtful there will be a full CMS on that one too.


----------



## eezrider

zoomx2 said:


> Please let me know any UST in the market with a similar price range to make such a colour. I would like to replace my T1.
> 
> View attachment 3233991
> 
> View attachment 3233989
> 
> View attachment 3233988
> 
> View attachment 3233990
> 
> View attachment 3233987


Great images. What's also impressive about these shots is that they are not taken in a dark room. Combined with an ALR screen, this projector is capable of magic.


----------



## shanedowley

Gregory’s review will be out this week. From his blog today - 
“Le test du Fengmi T1 sera en ligne cette semaine…”


Fengmi Formovie T1 : un projecteur triple laser ultra courte focale avec support Dolby Vision. – – Le Blog de PHC –


----------



## Netace44

zoomx2 said:


> They all bought a bulk from wholesale. They are still making the difference. I ordered a 100” Pet Crystal from her as well. UPS updates delivery tomorrow finally.


Hi, Where are you in Canada, I am in Edmonton. 
Do you mind if I ask how much.


----------



## tnaik4

zoomx2 said:


> Please let me know any UST in the market with a similar price range to make such a colour. I would like to replace my T1.
> 
> View attachment 3233991
> 
> View attachment 3233989
> 
> View attachment 3233988
> 
> View attachment 3233990
> 
> View attachment 3233987


Its impressive that these pictures are with light in the room, pretty good quality there.


----------



## spocky12

aerodynamics said:


> That person goes by @spocky12 on this forum.


Got my T1 a few days ago.
My first impression : colors are outstanding (I had the Xiaomi 1080p, the Fengmi 4k and Fengmi 4k pro before. The T1 is much better). When my kids play on the Switch, it really looks like they are on a big tv, rather than on a projector (and I'm projecting on a matte grey wall, not a dedicated screen) .
Also the noise is more than 10db lower than my 4k pro, with no high pitch noise).
Memc is also great because in France, many local streaming services use 50Hz, so the stutters would be present without it.
I also noticed the edid handshake issues and sometimes to much red on DV, but I did not take time to experiment much on it yet.

Regarding the initial question, there are 2 engineering menus available (both also available on the other FengOs devices), but none of them seem to allow full color calibration (but it seems like they allow fine grained fan control, which wasn't present last time I checked). 
I'll do more reverse engineering when the next release of ProjecTivy will be out (I've already added support for the most basic things like HDMI input change), which should be pretty soon.


----------



## whiskthecat

lattiboy said:


> Switching from 2.1 to 2.0 and then back to 2.1 has fixed it for me every time. It’s not a huge deal, but one more annoying quirk.


Same exact thing with Wemax Nova...


----------



## Sunbox2408

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Ok so there is an Auto Boot feature you can get too from the settings menu during viewing an input.
> It says "automatically turn on when hdmi is detected" but that does not seem to work for me.
> 
> Wonder if it only works for a specific hdmi port? I am on port #1.
> 
> Auto off is working, it seems to go off automatically when I turn off my shield or my switch.
> 
> Since I am using an AVR and I have standby passthru on, wonder if I turned that off, if it would fix auto boot.
> 
> If I get this working I can have everything fully automated without much hackery.


@ViciousXUSMC wondering if you were able to solve this without the hackery eventually? Mine gets stuck at this screen each time I start the projector. I have my shield hdmi (#3) selected for autoboot.


----------



## lattiboy

Sunbox2408 said:


> @ViciousXUSMC wondering if you were able to solve this without the hackery eventually? Mine gets stuck at this screen each time I start the projector. I have my shield hdmi (#3) selected for autoboot.
> 
> View attachment 3234169


My shield TV boots fine from HDM1. Maybe it’s eARC issue?


----------



## ngcoolman

lattiboy said:


> I ran into it on some random live stream and on some local news clips. I reverted to DV just now and I may stay with it. We’ll filmed or high quality stuff is usually very good.


Just an update to everyone who may be interested. I got the chromecast with google tv yesterday. It can force every output to dv as I expected, however somehow I couldn't get t1 built-in atmos to work properly. If I turn off surround sound from the sound option, everything works fine but only output stereo. If it turn on surround with auto, Netflix and Disney+ can show the 5.1 or atmos if the content support it but no sound. Interestingly, if I set the format support manually to only atmos with dolby plus option, 5.1 has sound but atmos content won't even be played.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Sunbox2408 said:


> @ViciousXUSMC wondering if you were able to solve this without the hackery eventually? Mine gets stuck at this screen each time I start the projector. I have my shield hdmi (#3) selected for autoboot.
> 
> View attachment 3234169


That is not even the same UI as my projector!
did you change something, like a non default launcher?

Mine goes to the main screen with some video previews and has a very basic menu system if I press the menu button. Then I have to go to inputs, and then select the input.

I did actually just update my automation today, since I went thru the trouble of setting up ADB for the Projector, I just added the Shield to that as well, the shield integration with Alexa was unreliable, today it said the device was offline.

I also changed for now my power on/off for the projector to sleep mode instead of shut down. 
The benefit is instant on because now I can just use "wake" the dis-benefit is I don't know if the fan ever turns off in sleep mode.

When I turn it on on when it wakes it goes into searching for HDMI signal for 15 seconds so as long as the shield is on, it picks it up in a few seconds and I never have to touch the projector and change the input.

I also can use ADB to change the input, so maybe later tonight I'll add a new command for Alexa to change to that input just incase I lose it (have had that happen where some sort of CEC command put the shield to sleep, and that puts the projector to sleep, and then turning the projector on again it goes to the main screen.

Here is where my projector goes if I use the home key, or no inputs are detected.









Here is what I get when I press the Menu button.


----------



## zoomx2

Netace44 said:


> Hi, Where are you in Canada, I am in Edmonton.
> Do you mind if I ask how much.


I'm in Toronto, 100” screen and T1 $2750 US.


----------



## spocky12

Sunbox2408 said:


> @ViciousXUSMC wondering if you were able to solve this without the hackery eventually? Mine gets stuck at this screen each time I start the projector. I have my shield hdmi (#3) selected for autoboot.
> 
> View attachment 3234169


This is ProjecTivy tools...
If you got it preinstalled, I'd be interested in knowing where you bought it from.

With ProjecTivy installed and stock launcher disabled, you boot directly to this screen. Replacing stock launcher is usually appreciated by non Chinese people as they have no interest in foreign streaming services and can't read Chinese. 
It also has an option to define which HDMI input you want to start on boot, but as you've already experimented, this doesn't work on T1 (and C2) yet. Which explains why you are stuck at this screen.
Next release will fix it.


----------



## CabbageMan

Has anyone had trouble with sound on Disney plus? Video games, Netflix, YouTube all have sound. For some reason there is no sound on Disney plus


----------



## ufokillerz

Got my t1 today, only played around minimally but liking it compared to a vava chroma. Running a 135" screen. That I just discovered might not be true UST screen material. I have a vivid storm sample I placed on top go compare. Is my screen not clr? Do all clr screens look black like the vividstorm sample? When viewed from top


----------



## whiskthecat

ufokillerz said:


> Do all clr screens look black like the vividstorm sample? When viewed from top


Yes, a real lenticular screen is black from one angle and white from the other. It works just like those novelty cards (often erroneously referred to as holograms) that show one image when viewed from the left and a different image from the right. But for projectors instead of printing 2 different images for a motion effect they just print black and white. It's just a 3D sheet of long triangles where the upper side of the triangle is painted black to absorb ambient light coming from the ceiling and the down side is painted white to reflect the projected image.

If you have ever had one of those novelty cards you will know that an easy way to identify them is by gently running your fingernail in the direction of the change. This will make a whizzing noise as your nail rides over the ridges. Don't press so hard as to scratch the top of the ridges though.


----------



## slickrock

ufokillerz said:


> Got my t1 today, only played around minimally but liking it compared to a vava chroma. Running a 135" screen. That I just discovered might not be true UST screen material. I have a vivid storm sample I placed on top go compare. Is my screen not clr? Do all clr screens look black like the vividstorm sample? When viewed from top
> View attachment 3234275
> View attachment 3234276


Nope. Your base screen is not lenticular, unlike the Vividstorm, which is.


----------



## ufokillerz

whiskthecat said:


> Yes, a real lenticular screen is black from one angle and white from the other. It works just like those novelty cards (often erroneously referred to as holograms) that show one image when viewed from the left and a different image from the right. But for projectors instead of printing 2 different images for a motion effect they just print black and white. It's just a 3D sheet of long triangles where the upper side of the triangle is painted black to absorb ambient light coming from the ceiling and the down side is painted white to reflect the projected image.
> 
> If you have ever had one of those novelty cards you will know that an easy way to identify them is by gently running your fingernail in the direction of the change. This will make a whizzing noise as your nail rides over the ridges. Don't press so hard as to scratch the top of the ridges though.
> View attachment 3234292
> 
> View attachment 3234293
> View attachment 3234295


thanks for the info!, the seller insists i have the right material.. this is how its advertised. I was expecting a lenticular type of screen. I have been telling the seller that its the wrong material!


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

spocky12 said:


> This is ProjecTivy tools...
> If you got it preinstalled, I'd be interested in knowing where you bought it from.
> 
> With ProjecTivy installed and stock launcher disabled, you boot directly to this screen. Replacing stock launcher is usually appreciated by non Chinese people as they have no interest in foreign streaming services and can't read Chinese.
> It also has an option to define which HDMI input you want to start on boot, but as you've already experimented, this doesn't work on T1 (and C2) yet. Which explains why you are stuck at this screen.
> Next release will fix it.


No my boot to HDMI does work just fine. Every time from a power off state the Shield will wake it and then it boots and searches for HDMI 1 for 15 seconds. In a few seconds it opens to the Shield.
I just today changed to use sleep instead of power off, so I have to see how that works in the long run, if its an issue I already built an automation to tell Alexa turn on Input 1 and then it switches for me.


----------



## Sunbox2408

spocky12 said:


> This is ProjecTivy tools...
> If you got it preinstalled, I'd be interested in knowing where you bought it from.
> 
> With ProjecTivy installed and stock launcher disabled, you boot directly to this screen. Replacing stock launcher is usually appreciated by non Chinese people as they have no interest in foreign streaming services and can't read Chinese.
> It also has an option to define which HDMI input you want to start on boot, but as you've already experimented, this doesn't work on T1 (and C2) yet. Which explains why you are stuck at this screen.
> Next release will fix it.


Oh thats interesting, I got it pre installed. Bought from nothing but label here in Australia. Very impressed with their service so far, delivery, packaging everything was top notch. Let me play around with it to see if it works, I assumed everyone had this as their default screen.
I have to press the back key on the remote to see the same screens that @ViciousXUSMC posted above.

Edit: I tried putting hdmi 3 for auto start in projectivity settings (had it on t1 auto boot settings earlier). It now tries to start hdmi 3 at the start however fails to identify shield and gives an error "Unable to switch channel" after waiting for 15 seconds.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Unless someone can give me benefit to ProjectTivy tools I'll have to stick with the "if it aint broke dont fix it" rule.

I know it is supposed to expose some advanced options and configurations on previous generation of projectors, but I am not sure any of those benefits have been confirmed on the T1 as of yet.

I had posted up a video of the automatic on and off working several pages back, and it showed it booting and going to my HDMI 1 input without issue.

I could put up a new video and show how I worked around setting an automatic voice command to switch to HDMI 1 if ever it did not connect and I was put to the main screen, but the main reason that would happen is the shield was going to sleep when it detected the projector going to sleep or changing inputs. I disabled that last night, I also disabled the Nvidia Shield integration with Alexa and now directly control that via ADB like the projector so it should be very stable now.


----------



## Adamgoodapp

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Unless someone can give me benefit to ProjectTivy tools I'll have to stick with the "if it aint broke dont fix it" rule.
> 
> I know it is supposed to expose some advanced options and configurations on previous generation of projectors, but I am not sure any of those benefits have been confirmed on the T1 as of yet.
> 
> I had posted up a video of the automatic on and off working several pages back, and it showed it booting and going to my HDMI 1 input without issue.
> 
> I could put up a new video and show how I worked around setting an automatic voice command to switch to HDMI 1 if ever it did not connect and I was put to the main screen, but the main reason that would happen is the shield was going to sleep when it detected the projector going to sleep or changing inputs. I disabled that last night, I also disabled the Nvidia Shield integration with Alexa and now directly control that via ADB like the projector so it should be very stable now.


I would wait until spocky12 updates the software, he just got his T1 so hopefully he can work his magic.


----------



## spocky12

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Unless someone can give me benefit to ProjectTivy tools I'll have to stick with the "if it aint broke dont fix it" rule.


To each his own. Without the "advanced" features, it's more a matter of customization, I suppose. 
I like changing the launcher of my phone. The stock one is not "broken", but the one I use is more optimized and allows customization not available on the stock one.

Here are my personal reasons : 

Regarding FengOs, even if I use an external player 90% of the time, my remote control "home" button reminds me that I have a Chinese device solely developed for their local market.
I don't want my kids to interact with this launcher and inadvertently watch a trailer not intended for them
this launcher and a few other embedded apps, phones home and reports personal use. I don't need any third party app spying on me, Google already does it well enough 
this launcher / preinstalled apps burdens the system, probably participating in little higher CPU use, slower boot. If I don't need them, I'd prefer them disabled and use a lightweight launcher
with ProjecTivy, after a press on the home button, I have direct access to "stock" Android settings as well as engineering menus
the other reasons are only related to the upcoming release, won't list them here 

Remember that without the rooting part, ProjecTivy is "just" another launcher, it can't break anything in the system. The issue previously reported with the "boot to HDMI input" is based on 2 things :

the stock "boot to HDMI" setting relies on the stock launcher, which is total nonsense. It being disabled is a decision of the reseller, not directly related with the installation of ProjecTivy
the ProjecTivy version installed was not developed/tested for this device (changing input on mediatek is different from amlogic) and shouldn't have been installed as a launcher. To be honest, I was not aware NothingButLabel was still installing ProjecTivy on their devices

Anyways, if you're using an external player device and don't care for the points above, I totally understand you don't want to fiddle with another launcher


----------



## shanedowley

spocky12 said:


> Anyways, if you're using an external player device and don't care for the points above, I totally understand you don't want to fiddle with another launcher


I use only external players and do care for all the points above!
Looking forward very much to the updated release of ProjecTivy Tools 😀


----------



## zaselim

ViciousXUSMC said:


> That is not even the same UI as my projector!
> did you change something, like a non default launcher?
> 
> Mine goes to the main screen with some video previews and has a very basic menu system if I press the menu button. Then I have to go to inputs, and then select the input.
> 
> I did actually just update my automation today, since I went thru the trouble of setting up ADB for the Projector, I just added the Shield to that as well, the shield integration with Alexa was unreliable, today it said the device was offline.
> 
> I also changed for now my power on/off for the projector to sleep mode instead of shut down.
> The benefit is instant on because now I can just use "wake" the dis-benefit is I don't know if the fan ever turns off in sleep mode.
> 
> When I turn it on on when it wakes it goes into searching for HDMI signal for 15 seconds so as long as the shield is on, it picks it up in a few seconds and I never have to touch the projector and change the input.
> 
> I also can use ADB to change the input, so maybe later tonight I'll add a new command for Alexa to change to that input just incase I lose it (have had that happen where some sort of CEC command put the shield to sleep, and that puts the projector to sleep, and then turning the projector on again it goes to the main screen.
> 
> Here is where my projector goes if I use the home key, or no inputs are detected.
> View attachment 3234206
> 
> 
> Here is what I get when I press the Menu button.
> 
> View attachment 3234209


Why the 2nd picture is noisy/distorted/brushy, I saw a couple of them more in some of the other posted picture. Is it because of the camera (and no lighting) or the screen?


----------



## Brajesh

shanedowley said:


> Your A300 set up as described is as close to perfect as I think you can get. Especially that you can also enjoy 3D with it. I had an A300 combined w HD Fury Vertex2 and loved it. I’ve also had the Fengmi C2 but that was a mistake! Anyway in the last month I’ve moved to the Xiaomi C2 and am pleased w it. It’s a more finished and rounded product than the Fengmi T1. I'm a stickler for colour accuracy, and I know that the T1 would bother me in time due to this.
> 
> Well done on tuning your A300 to such a high performance, plus getting the use of DV content using the Zidoo: Great job! I’ve gone for convenience w the Xiaomi C2. I don't need the HD Fury anymore. The C2’s handling of SDR, HDR and DV just ‘works’ for me. My only regret is no 3D w the Xiaomi C2.


Curious how you're continuing to enjoy 3D? Or, are you not? Other than MEMC on Xiaomi C2, I'm not seeing it being compelling enough to buy for native DV. It's because of lack of 3D as noted and HDFury's handing of DV being indiscernible (at least to me) from native. Maybe I'm missing something. While colors on these tri-lasers (having tried VAVA Chroma & Fengmi T1) really pop, they also feel over-saturated, inaccurate. Tweaking settings & firmware updates will help I'm sure. May be in the minority, but I used to have a LG OLED & didn't care for it for movie watching for the same reason. For sports & gaming however, it was great.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

zaselim said:


> Why the 2nd picture is noisy/distorted/brushy, I saw a couple of them more in some of the other posted picture. Is it because of the camera (and no lighting) or the screen?


No its the default content, some kind of low res stream. Very low quality being enlarged to fit screen.


----------



## Ricoflashback

spocky12 said:


> Anyways, if you're using an external player device and don't care for the points above, I totally understand you don't want to fiddle with another launcher


What about an AVR where you run everything through? Cable/Nvidia Shield/Blu-ray Player. Any problems with the Fengmi T1 in that scenario?


----------



## zaselim

ViciousXUSMC said:


> No its the default content, some kind of low res stream. Very low quality being enlarged to fit screen.


so it doesn't happen with actual 4k content or 1080p.
How are the black levels, is it dark grey or more close to black?


----------



## DeanM3

Since so many photos have been posted here around the T1 and Suicide Squad on HBO, I decided to watch it last night. Pretty incredible transfer and the T1 really brings out some of the amazing colors in DV. Totally understand why its used as a demo reference now. I did notice some scenes were a bit red-heavy but I'm not sure if just the exaggerated colors in the transfer or the T1 issue in DV.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

zaselim said:


> so it doesn't happen with actual 4k content or 1080p.
> How are the black levels, is it dark grey or more close to black?


It looks like absolute black when the lights are off as to not illuminate the screen.
I was watching Hellsing last night (the anime) and there was a scene where the character was highlighted in the dark, so it was just pure black around him and it was surreal how black it was.

Also I started collecting new 4K content before I got the projector in anticipation thinking with the larger screen size the difference between 1080P and 4K would start to be a lot more noticeable and I am VERY surprised how good 1080P looks.

Perhaps the Shield has something to do with this using its AI Upscaling, but yes 1080P or higher looks great.


----------



## spocky12

Ricoflashback said:


> What about an AVR where you run everything through? Cable/Nvidia Shield/Blu-ray Player. Any problems with the Fengmi T1 in that scenario?


There's no real problem in using any of these projectors with their standard launcher (that your won't see much if your boot directly to an HDMI input).
Using an AVR or not though, the points I mentioned above are still valid, if they matter to you.


----------



## Ricoflashback

ViciousXUSMC said:


> It looks like absolute black when the lights are off as to not illuminate the screen.
> I was watching Hellsing last night (the anime) and there was a scene where the character was highlighted in the dark, so it was just pure black around him and it was surreal how black it was.
> 
> Also I started collecting new 4K content before I got the projector in anticipation thinking with the larger screen size the difference between 1080P and 4K would start to be a lot more noticeable and I am VERY surprised how good 1080P looks.
> 
> Perhaps the Shield has something to do with this using its AI Upscaling, but yes 1080P or higher looks great.


The Shield Pro does a great job of AI Upscaling and sharpening in my experience. Although not the same projector, even my AVR - Denon X6700H does a nice job of upscaling Comcast Cable content here in the states (1080p). I don't have a 4K set top box as all that does is have Comcast upscale everything to 4K. There are no programs in 4K on cable TV, so the question is how and what does your upscaling? 

Great to hear about the black levels. I don't know if you can provide a pic but that would be great!


----------



## shanedowley

Brajesh said:


> Curious how you're continuing to enjoy 3D? Or, are you not? Other than MEMC on Xiaomi C2, I'm not seeing it being compelling enough to buy for native DV. It's because of lack of 3D as noted and HDFury's handing of DV being indiscernible (at least to me) from native. Maybe I'm missing something. While colors on these tri-lasers (having tried VAVA Chroma & Fengmi T1) really pop, they also feel over-saturated, inaccurate. Tweaking settings & firmware updates will help I'm sure. May be in the minority, but I used to have a LG OLED & didn't care for it for movie watching for the same reason. For sports & gaming however, it was great.


Having the C2 now for a few weeks I can say it’s a considerable step up in PQ from the A300, which was excellent itself. The main improvements for me are in the colours and contrast. The quality of the native DV baked into the C2 is better than what I was able to get out of the A300 using the HD Fury LLDV hack. The C2 is quieter than the A300 and having MEMC is a big help for UK broadcast content which is mostly in 50Hz. I do miss the 3D movies, but was finding it hard to the get time to watch them as the kids and wife have no interest in them (their loss!).
I might one day buy a secondhand Xiaomi 1080pm Mi laser projector and swap out the C2 for a weekend of Avatar, Gravity and the like.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Ricoflashback said:


> The Shield Pro does a great job of AI Upscaling and sharpening in my experience. Although not the same projector, even my AVR - Denon X6700H does a nice job of upscaling Comcast Cable content here in the states (1080p). I don't have a 4K set top box as all that does is have Comcast upscale everything to 4K. There are no programs in 4K on cable TV, so the question is how and what does your upscaling?
> 
> Great to hear about the black levels. I don't know if you can provide a pic but that would be great!


Just a phone pic, and in the dark with motion not the greatest shot but the one picture I have on my phone right now with a dark scene is this one from Promethus.


----------



## abaintor

shanedowley said:


> Having the C2 now for a few weeks I can say it’s a considerable step up in PQ from the A300, which was excellent itself. The main improvements for me are in the colours and contrast. The quality of the native DV baked into the C2 is better than what I was able to get out of the A300 using the HD Fury LLDV hack. The C2 is quieter than the A300 and having MEMC is a big help for UK broadcast content which is mostly in 50Hz. I do miss the 3D movies, but was finding it hard to the get time to watch them as the kids and wife have no interest in them (their loss!).
> I might one day buy a secondhand Xiaomi 1080pm Mi laser projector and swap out the C2 for a weekend of Avatar, Gravity and the like.


I am about to do the same : keeping my xiaomi 4k for 3D and get the T1 for the other formats. 

I was able to get memc working with 3D and 2D in 4k hdr thanks to a PC and a software called svp. I never had such a beautiful 3D with this because svp is able to build interpolated video even in 3D format : you get 60hz with a 2x1080p side by side picture so a smooth 60hz 3D playback. Same thing for 4k hdr
You « just » have to own a recent gpu (rtx 2xxx or better). 
Also you can do tone mapping with madvr. 
The only drawback is the lack of dolby vision support (no existing software solution to decode it)


----------



## Ricoflashback

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Just a phone pic, and in the dark with motion not the greatest shot but the one picture I have on my phone right now with a dark scene is this one from Promethus.
> View attachment 3234599


Wow, that's fabulous! Is it just me or are the black bars really black? I'm used to gray bars with DLP regular throw projectors. What type of screen you have again? Much thx - Rico.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Ricoflashback said:


> Wow, that's fabulous! Is it just me or are the black bars really black? I'm used to gray bars with DLP regular throw projectors. What type of screen you have again? Much thx - Rico.


Like I said black as black can be, and I have a pretty good eye for colors since I used to do photography and photo editing.

The screen is a AKIA 115" CLR4 screen from Elite Screens.
It's a bit of a grey color, thus why in light the blacks are gray, but once the lights go out, you get perfect blacks.


----------



## zaselim

ViciousXUSMC said:


> It looks like absolute black when the lights are off as to not illuminate the screen.
> I was watching Hellsing last night (the anime) and there was a scene where the character was highlighted in the dark, so it was just pure black around him and it was surreal how black it was.
> 
> Also I started collecting new 4K content before I got the projector in anticipation thinking with the larger screen size the difference between 1080P and 4K would start to be a lot more noticeable and I am VERY surprised how good 1080P looks.
> 
> Perhaps the Shield has something to do with this using its AI Upscaling, but yes 1080P or higher looks great.





ViciousXUSMC said:


> Just a phone pic, and in the dark with motion not the greatest shot but the one picture I have on my phone right now with a dark scene is this one from Promethus.
> View attachment 3234599


Nice, Thanks.
So have you tried connecting it with a PC and reduce the red color(gamma or saturation) in GPU settings of the red tint in some scenes to see if it corrects the tint. I am pretty sure it will address it.
Since I watch movies from my system (bluray writer)(on my 1080p projector) 99% of the time so I think I can address (I checked it in Nvidia CP, where you can increase the(blue/green gamma) or reduce the red one a little to make it look natural without touching the blue/green) the issue in those movies but for Streaming device i can't say since i never used any. I watch shows from built-in NF and Prime app video on my Samsung 4k 55" smart TV.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

zaselim said:


> Nice, Thanks.
> So have you tried connecting it with a PC and reduce the red color(gamma or saturation) in GPU settings of the red tint in some scenes to see if it corrects the tint. I am pretty sure it will address it.
> Since I watch movies from my system (bluray writer)(on my 1080p projector) 99% of the time so I think I can address (I checked it in Nvidia CP, where you can increase the(blue/green gamma) or reduce the red one a little to make it look natural without touching the blue/green) the issue in those movies but for Streaming device i can't say since i never used any. I watch shows from built-in NF and Prime app video on my Samsung 4k 55" smart TV.


I might be willing to get a device like the HDFury if I needed it to see if I can do some kind of custom tone mapping, but hooking up a HTPC is not something I am interested in. I did that as a kid, tried all the stuff like Windows Media Center with the remote, wireless keyboard and mouse, a FLIR, just never got it to the point where I felt like it was a piece of AV equipment.

Now that I am in IT and know how to write my own automations and programs I am sure I could create some kind of integrated HTPC, but with the Shield just working so well for what I want, I need another project like I need another hole in the head 

If anything I would use the Shields streaming features and stream from the PC and try it that way, but the need has not yet grown enough for it to become a desire on my limited time.


----------



## eezrider

zaselim said:


> Nice, Thanks.
> So have you tried connecting it with a PC and reduce the red color(gamma or saturation) in GPU settings of the red tint in some scenes to see if it corrects the tint. I am pretty sure it will address it.
> Since I watch movies from my system (bluray writer)(on my 1080p projector) 99% of the time so I think I can address (I checked it in Nvidia CP, where you can increase the(blue/green gamma) or reduce the red one a little to make it look natural without touching the blue/green) the issue in those movies but for Streaming device i can't say since i never used any. I watch shows from built-in NF and Prime app video on my Samsung 4k 55" smart TV.


You can adjust the color with the T1 also to fix any tint with any non DV input, although the different brightness modes affect the color temp. The tint problem, if there is one, is in DV, which you can't support from a PC anyway. I've found the color balance in SDR and HDR to be fine. And personally, I've not seen any significant red tint issue yet.


----------



## Brajesh

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Just a phone pic, and in the dark with motion not the greatest shot but the one picture I have on my phone right now with a dark scene is this one from Promethus.


Aw man, 'Promethus' in 3D is an awesome experience! This scene (where the alien is about to take off in the spaceship) is a standout for me. You're totally immersed in planets & stars. Can't watch it, and some other movies, like 'Avatar', any other way  ...


----------



## shanedowley

Anyone here had success using a universal remote like the Logitech Harmony with these FengOS projectors?


----------



## zaselim

eezrider said:


> You can adjust the color with the T1 also to fix any tint with any non DV input, although the different brightness modes affect the color temp. The tint problem, if there is one, is in DV, which you can't support from a PC anyway. I've found the color balance in SDR and HDR to be fine. And personally, I've not seen any significant red tint issue yet.


I know that is why I only mentioned DV. Isn't pot player accepts DV? I don't have a DV supported TV, I have Samsung 4k 75" smart TV and it only support hdr10/hdr10+ and hlg so I don't know anything about DV. Both my TV and projector are connected through Yamaha AV Receiver (with my gaming PC and PS4 Pro) which does have DV and other things as well but since I don't have a DV supported display I've never check it. hdr10 works beautifully on pot player or with MPC but i mostly use pot player when watching hdr content.


----------



## zaselim

ViciousXUSMC said:


> I might be willing to get a device like the HDFury if I needed it to see if I can do some kind of custom tone mapping, but hooking up a HTPC is not something I am interested in. I did that as a kid, tried all the stuff like Windows Media Center with the remote, wireless keyboard and mouse, a FLIR, just never got it to the point where I felt like it was a piece of AV equipment.
> 
> Now that I am in IT and know how to write my own automations and programs I am sure I could create some kind of integrated HTPC, but with the Shield just working so well for what I want, I need another project like I need another hole in the head
> 
> If anything I would use the Shields streaming features and stream from the PC and try it that way, but the need has not yet grown enough for it to become a desire on my limited time.


Oh that's nice, to be able to code something for yourself, it super handy lol. Currently I watch shows from my smart TV's NF/Prime Video etc apps and watch movies on pot player through my Bluray writer. My TV and current projector are also connected through my AV (currently 5.1 setting but I'm upgrading it with 7.2.4 soon with my new projector)with my PC and PS4 pro.
I am waiting for the Fengmi T1 review to decide among Hisense PX1 Pro, Fengmi T1 and Xiaomi C2.
I have never tried steaming service because I always thought that actual bluray media is better than streaming media quality wise but I was very impressed with some of the 4k content I've watched on NF through my TV(which i bought in Dec 2021). So i am thinking of getting one as well, which one do you think is the best streaming device?


----------



## Ricoflashback

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Like I said black as black can be, and I have a pretty good eye for colors since I used to do photography and photo editing.
> 
> The screen is a AKIA 115" CLR4 screen from Elite Screens.
> It's a bit of a grey color, thus why in light the blacks are gray, but once the lights go out, you get perfect blacks.


That looks like a nice screen. I'm comparing it to the Grandview Dynamique and a SilverTicket screen. The AKIA seems much lighter and I like their ease of installation with the brackets on both sides to simply hang up the screen. Also - - while I've used a bias light for my LCD TV, I do not use one for my current projector screen. I find that I don't need the bias light as it made a big difference with a harsh, LCD picture, but not so much a projected image - - which I find much easier on my eyes.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Ricoflashback said:


> That looks like a nice screen. I'm comparing it to the Grandview Dynamique and a SilverTicket screen. The AKIA seems much lighter and I like their ease of installation with the brackets on both sides to simply hang up the screen. Also - - while I've used a bias light for my LCD TV, I do not use one for my current projector screen. I find that I don't need the bias light as it made a big difference with a harsh, LCD picture, but not so much a projected image - - which I find much easier on my eyes.


It saved my eyes for sure with the TV, without it I felt eye strain watching TV in the dark.
But even with the projector I feel like it may help some, or even give the placebo of better contrast.

However the actual reason I use it is:
1.) It looks cool 
2.) Even with the screen frame blocking the light from shining onto the wall directly, especially with so much brightness and such thin bezels there is some "overcast" light that I find distracting. the LED's hide this overcast making it look much better to me.


----------



## Ricoflashback

ViciousXUSMC said:


> It saved my eyes for sure with the TV, without it I felt eye strain watching TV in the dark.
> But even with the projector I feel like it may help some, or even give the placebo of better contrast.
> 
> However the actual reason I use it is:
> 1.) It looks cool
> 2.) Even with the screen frame blocking the light from shining onto the wall directly, especially with so much brightness and such thin bezels there is some "overcast" light that I find distracting. the LED's hide this overcast making it look much better to me.


Do you mean overscan light from the projector itself? Or, other ambient light?


----------



## manwithnoname

I tried to scroll through the pages again, so apologies if this has been posted previously....

Is there a diagram of how many inches the projector should be from the wall/screen? I swear I saw it before but I can't find it now! I've got a 120" screen.

Thanks!


----------



## mirkmito

manwithnoname said:


> I tried to scroll through the pages again, so apologies if this has been posted previously....
> 
> Is there a diagram of how many inches the projector should be from the wall/screen? I swear I saw it before but I can't find it now! I've got a 120" screen.
> 
> Thanks!


@manwithnoname


----------



## ngcoolman

I think I encountered one movie that demonstrate how the dv red issue can be a big problem. I.e. Disney Encanto. Different from other content which the red issue show up rarely, I think 80% of the time in this movie, you can see some unnatural red on the clothes, sky or face.


----------



## mirkmito

ngcoolman said:


> I think I encountered one movie that demonstrate how the dv red issue can be a big problem. I.e. Disney Encanto. Different from other content which the red issue show up rarely, I think 80% of the time in this movie, you can see some unnatural red on the clothes, sky or face.


@ngcoolman 
Did you take a picture?


----------



## shanedowley

ngcoolman said:


> I think I encountered one movie that demonstrate how the dv red issue can be a big problem. I.e. Disney Encanto. Different from other content which the red issue show up rarely, I think 80% of the time in this movie, you can see some unnatural red on the clothes, sky or face.


My daughter watched this movie last night on the C2 (using Disney+ on the AppleTV w DV enabled) and I was impressed with how well it looked -- bright, balanced and vibrant colours with no red push. 

Be interesting to get a side by side comparison of the movie between the C2 and T1. @lattiboy Fancy doing a comparison and reporting back?


----------



## ngcoolman

mirkmito said:


> @ngcoolman
> Did you take a picture?


Unfortunately not as I was playing the movie for visiting kids and didn't have chance to do so.


----------



## mirkmito

Test Fengmi Formovie T1 : l’avis de Grégory. – – Le Blog de PHC –


----------



## Ricoflashback

mirkmito said:


> Test Fengmi Formovie T1 : l’avis de Grégory. – – Le Blog de PHC –


The most salient comment in Gregory's excellent review?


----------



## DeanM3

Ricoflashback said:


> The most salient comment in Gregory's excellent review?
> View attachment 3234938


I posted a similar sentiment earlier in this thread that I was extremely impressed by the T1 even being an owner of a $8k JVC projector. Even with some laser speckle, light RBE effect, and not the most accurate colors out of the box, the T1 is just insane value at $2500 USD or less.

This review really validates what most of us have been saying here all along. You can break down the scientific measurements all day long and over analyze direct comparisons with other products, but all of us here are experienced AV enthusiasts and have aligned on the fact that the T1 just has a quality to it that is incredibly impressive and completely unexpected at the price point. In fact my content viewing has shot up lately because of how much I'm impressed by how content looks on the T1.


----------



## DeanM3

Is it not amusing that this review dropped during Lunar Year? I imagine there are going to be some orders queuing up when the vendors return from holiday.


----------



## lattiboy

It’s funny Gregory and I share basically the exact sentiment about the T1. I posted this 4 days ago:


----------



## lattiboy

shanedowley said:


> My daughter watched this movie last night on the C2 (using Disney+ on the AppleTV w DV enabled) and I was impressed with how well it looked -- bright, balanced and vibrant colours with no red push.
> 
> Be interesting to get a side by side comparison of the movie between the C2 and T1. @lattiboy Fancy doing a comparison and reporting back?


I have my C2 boxed up and listed on eBay, otherwise I would probably do it. I should compile all my comparison shots together somewhere. Gregory’s review should hopefully lessen the requests for comparison as he has fancy tools and charts rather than my iPhone pictures. 

My basic experience is that the C2 is very accurate, but looks quite dull after watching the T1. If you’ve never had a triple laser and don’t wish to fiddle with settings the C2 is the best projector available.


----------



## ufokillerz

got my T1 the other day, definitely a better projector then the Vava Chroma. I was able to get good focus on the T1 on my 135" screen, my chroma was still blurry in the top left corner.


----------



## lattiboy

mirkmito said:


> Test Fengmi Formovie T1 : l’avis de Grégory. – – Le Blog de PHC –


Also, I will always refer to the T1 as having a “flamboyant image” from now on when people ask. That is a bit of French inspired translation that happens to be incredibly accurate!


----------



## Adamgoodapp

I received my T1 a few days ago. Don’t have my ALR screen shipped yet but damn this thing is bright even with the lights on. Even on my terrible textured cream wall I can tell how amazing the colors are, I had a wow moment like @lattiboy and can't wait till I experience the even bigger wow when I finally pair it with a ALR screen.

My GF is very anti new tech and even she said I get why you bought this.

The major problems are fixable with a software update, let’s all keep on top of Formovie for that sweet antidote.


----------



## mcusman2012

Its an win win situation for both i think(user choice). Personally i cant adjust projector settings for every movie and content. Its not possible for me atleast. Kind of ruins the fun(dont have gadgets to check every movie color/hdr accuracy). Im also sensitive to laser speckle as well. So happy with my choice of c2. I hope T1 owners enjoy it as well. Those who have not even ordered anything, my advise to just wait for next xiaomi triple laser model as gregory said. It will be releasing very soon removing all T1 issues in their model.


----------



## Grumi

mcusman2012 said:


> Its an win win situation for both i think(user choice). Personally i cant adjust projector settings for every movie and content. Its not possible for me atleast. Kind of ruins the fun(dont have gadgets to check every movie color/hdr accuracy). Im also sensitive to laser speckle as well. So happy with my choice of c2. I hope T1 owners enjoy it as well. Those who have not even ordered anything, my advise to just wait for next xiaomi triple laser model as gregory said. It will be releasing very soon removing all T1 issues in their model.


By the next version, do you mean the international version of the T1 that Gregory says will be released in a few weeks ?

I'm moving in a new place and looking at USTs with a motorized screen instead of a TV. The international version of the T1 with local support seems like a great option (unless they removes some features and outrageously increase the price). I'd love to check the C2 but having to send it back to china in case of a problem makes me rethink.


----------



## wltam

lattiboy said:


> I have my C2 boxed up and listed on eBay, otherwise I would probably do it. I should compile all my comparison shots together somewhere. Gregory’s review should hopefully lessen the requests for comparison as he has fancy tools and charts rather than my iPhone pictures.
> 
> My basic experience is that the C2 is very accurate, but looks quite dull after watching the T1. If you’ve never had a triple laser and don’t wish to fiddle with settings the C2 is the best projector available.


Hi! I would love to go for the T1 but also have to admit that it’s my first projector and I am not shy of configuring the projector, yet I am more wondering how “easy” it would be given that have no experience or what so ever… hence would you still recommend the T1?


----------



## lattiboy

wltam said:


> Hi! I would love to go for the T1 but also have to admit that it’s my first projector and I am not shy of configuring the projector, yet I am more wondering how “easy” it would be given that have no experience or what so ever… hence would you still recommend the T1?


They are equally easy to set up and it isn’t terribly complicated to adjust settings, it is more just annoyance.

To be clear, if you just use Gregory settings or pretty similar settings in view mode you will have a perfectly good experience with almost everything. You can simply get a lot more out of the projector by adjusting from those settings depending on the HDR content you are watching.

The only issue with no fix is Dolby Vision content. It looks absolutely incredible most of the time, but you will inevitably hit a scene or an entire film that has bizarre colors in the red orange and pink areas. There just isn’t much you can do at that point besides use the highly inaccurate office/dark combo, which does not have any weirdness, but it’s quite purple tinted and too bright 

You can also simply toggle off Dolby Vision in your media player if you don’t wanna deal with it, but you will lose color fidelity and shadow detail.

There is simply no easy answer to whether or not someone should buy the T1 over the C2 or vice versa.


----------



## lattiboy

mcusman2012 said:


> Its an win win situation for both i think(user choice). Personally i cant adjust projector settings for every movie and content. Its not possible for me atleast. Kind of ruins the fun(dont have gadgets to check every movie color/hdr accuracy). Im also sensitive to laser speckle as well. So happy with my choice of c2. I hope T1 owners enjoy it as well. Those who have not even ordered anything, my advise to just wait for next xiaomi triple laser model as gregory said. It will be releasing very soon removing all T1 issues in their model.


That is his *hope*, but often international versions lose image customization options and increase in price. It would be extremely insulting if the early adopters who believed the marketing got screwed if no firmware update comes out. I would immediately stop suggesting Fengmi to anybody.


----------



## mcusman2012

Grumi said:


> By the next version, do you mean the international version of the T1 that Gregory says will be released in a few weeks ?
> 
> I'm moving in a new place and looking at USTs with a motorized screen instead of a TV. The international version of the T1 with local support seems like a great option (unless they removes some features and outrageously increase the price). I'd love to check the C2 but having to send it back to china in case of a problem makes me rethink.


No. I would also recommend to stay away from international version also as gregory said. It further decreases customization which this model needs direly everytime you play anything. By next model i mean xiaomi ALPD4. They will soon release it and I bet it will be best. They mostly release their product after full checks like C2. 


wltam said:


> Hi! I would love to go for the T1 but also have to admit that it’s my first projector and I am not shy of configuring the projector, yet I am more wondering how “easy” it would be given that have no experience or what so ever… hence would you still recommend the T1?


If you are not shy configuring EACH time you play ANY movie then you can buy it. For me EACH time is too much. Also i have no tools to check whether the movie colors are accurate or not. I bet anyone will have it until you compare it with standard OLED or have seen the movie already and guessed that the colors are inaccurate. Their is no way for most people to do that(get ready to sleeve up and get your hands dirty as per review). Thats why color accuracy means a lot to me out of box(not just wide gamut). Its a personal perspective. Punchy vibrant colors are mostly not accurate(just catchy candy for eyes).


----------



## CabbageMan

I got my T1 the other day. First impressions are it is absolutely stunning. It is my 1st projector so I don't have much to compare it to but the picture on just the wall(will be ordering a screen soon) is beautiful. I'm not a big stickler for color accuracy, so all the fuss about it not being the most accurate hasn't bothered me at all, I just want it to look good and believe me it does! 

That being said, do any current owners of this use a google TV as their streaming stick? The CEC functions for me work but not the best. Volume works. Powering on and off works but is inconsistent. The input button pulls up the menu on the right side of screen to change the input but the arrows and select button don't work to actually select a new input. Lattiboy told me his Shield TV and Roku work fine. Is anyone else experiencing this issue with their google TV or other streaming stick?


----------



## lattiboy

mcusman2012 said:


> No. I would also recommend to stay away from international version also as gregory said. It further decreases customization which this model needs direly everytime you play anything. By next model i mean xiaomi ALPD4. They will soon release it and I bet it will be best. They mostly release their product after full checks like C2.
> 
> If you are not shy configuring EACH time you play ANY movie then you can buy it. For me EACH time is too much. Also i have no tools to check whether the movie colors are accurate or not. I bet anyone will have it until you compare it with standard OLED or have seen the movie already and guessed that the colors are inaccurate. Their is no way for most people to do that(get ready to sleeve up and get your hands dirty as per review). Thats why color accuracy means a lot to me out of box(not just wide gamut). Its a personal perspective. Punchy vibrant colors are mostly not accurate(just catchy candy for eyes).



No offense, but I do not believe you own the projector and really shouldn’t be making these statements of fact to people. You do not need to adjust it for every movie for it to look excellent. This projector operating at 70% of its potential is still the best projector available I’m aware of. Most adjustments are simply changing contrast and brightness, which usually takes about 30 seconds. If you’re watching a two hour movie this is not the end of the world.


----------



## lattiboy

CabbageMan said:


> I got my T1 the other day. First impressions are it is absolutely stunning. It is my 1st projector so I don't have much to compare it to but the picture on just the wall(will be ordering a screen soon) is beautiful. I'm not a big stickler for color accuracy, so all the fuss about it not being the most accurate hasn't bothered me at all, I just want it to look good and believe me it does!
> 
> That being said, do any current owners of this use a google TV as their streaming stick? The CEC functions for me work but not the best. Volume works. Powering on and off works but is inconsistent. The input button pulls up the menu on the right side of screen to change the input but the arrows and select button don't work to actually select a new input. Lattiboy told me his Shield TV and Roku work fine. Is anyone else experiencing this issue with their google TV or other streaming stick?


I am not able to do input changes as the Roku does not have an input button I am aware of. Volume and power work fine, but anything beyond that I grab the actual remote.


----------



## zaselim

Guys, how is the HDR10/HDR10+?
I am now thinking of ordering after reading to you comments and Gregory's review, the choices were for me (t1, C2 or Hisense PX1 Pro) and so far what I have read is the overall picture quality is better with T1(minus the DV), I won't loose sleep over DV as long the HDR content looks great (or at least good enough for me to enjoy the hdr content(games/movies/shows)) on the projector.


----------



## Ricoflashback

lattiboy said:


> That is his *hope*, but often international versions lose image customization options and increase in price. It would be extremely insulting if the early adopters who believed the marketing got screwed if no firmware update comes out. I would immediately stop suggesting Fengmi to anybody.


That's a lot of conjecture on your part. And, even Gregory's part. I think it's too early to be making judgments about any international version until it's released and reviewed. I don't see why you'd immediately stop suggesting Fengmi to anyone. Based on Gregory's review (and a lot of other posters) - - it's one heckuva projector and hard to beat in its price range with ALPD 4.0. You could always provide a caveat and complaint - - but that doesn't take away from what the Fengmi T1 currently brings to the table.


----------



## tnaik4

If i end up getting a T1 ill most probably use it on my white unity gain screen in a bat cave, but i want to ask whats the point of a ust screen if its not to reject lights and make the image better with light in the room ??
Wouldnt using white screen in a bat cave more optimal?
The only thing i can think off is that it might be too bright, i see the dimmest mode is around 1300 lumens, that might work for me and do a 3dlut to fix all color issues.
Also does the T1 has an SDR mode without the over the top colors for SDR movies/games ?

Thank you


----------



## lattiboy

Ricoflashback said:


> That's a lot of conjecture on your part. And, even Gregory's part. I think it's too early to be making judgments about any international version until it's released and reviewed. I don't see why you'd immediately stop suggesting Fengmi to anyone. Based on Gregory's review (and a lot of other posters) - - it's one heckuva projector and hard to beat in its price range with ALPD 4.0. You could always provide a caveat and complaint - - but that doesn't take away from what the Fengmi T1 currently brings to the table.


If they release an international version with identical hardware that resolves the Dolby Vision issue, but do not provide an update to that same hardware for existing customers, that is a very bad company that I will not be doing business with anymore. I am one of the posters who has said this is probably the best projector on the planet, but that does not release the manufacture from providing a fix to a problem that is literally unfixable to the end-user.


----------



## Xspearo

Decided to just keep my PX1-PRO, so if anyone is interested in a T1 message me. Already have it listed on eBay also. Sorry if this kind of post is not allowed.


----------



## eezrider

tnaik4 said:


> If i end up getting a T1 ill most probably use it on my white unity gain screen in a bat cave, but i want to ask whats the point of a ust screen if its not to reject lights and make the image better with light in the room ??
> Wouldnt using white screen in a bat cave more optimal?
> The only thing i can think off is that it might be too bright, i see the dimmest mode is around 1300 lumens, that might work for me and do a 3dlut to fix all color issues.
> Also does the T1 has an SDR mode without the over the top colors for SDR movies/games ?
> 
> Thank you


A CLR screen also rejects scattered light that is reflected from the screen onto the ceiling and walls and which then lowers the image contrast, and its darker color further improves contrast.

The T1 doesn't have an SDR mode, but don't think that colors in SDR movies are exaggerated, each movie is mastered with a specific color space, SDR movies simply have a narrower range of potential colors than HDR, in general the projector does a fantastic job of rendering what the cinematographer and director had in mind, often, these are muted colors, sometimes fantastical colors. A tri-laser like the T1 is simply able to show colors that lesser projectors cannot. It does a fantastic job with SDR content.


----------



## zaselim

Xspearo said:


> Decided to just keep my PX1-PRO, so if anyone is interested in a T1 message me. Already have it listed on eBay also. Sorry if this kind of post is not allowed.


What was the deciding factor for you to keep PX1-Pro over the T1?


----------



## tnaik4

eezrider said:


> A CLR screen also rejects scattered light that is reflected from the screen onto the ceiling and walls and which then lowers the image contrast, and its darker color further improves contrast.
> 
> The T1 doesn't have an SDR mode, but don't think that colors in SDR movies are exaggerated, each movie is mastered with a specific color space, SDR movies simply have a narrower range of potential colors than HDR, in general the projector does a fantastic job of rendering what the cinematographer and director had in mind, often, these are muted colors, sometimes fantastical colors. A tri-laser like the T1 is simply able to show colors that lesser projectors cannot. It does a fantastic job with SDR content.


Yes but i m talking in a bat cave, i have triple black velvet almost everywhere, so scattered light is extreemly low, thats what i m wondering about the point of clr screen in such environment amd wouldn't white screen make more sense then ?


----------



## mirkmito

zaselim said:


> Guys, how is the HDR10/HDR10+?
> I am now thinking of ordering after reading to you comments and Gregory's review, the choices were for me (t1, C2 or Hisense PX1 Pro) and so far what I have read is the overall picture quality is better with T1(minus the DV), I won't loose sleep over DV as long the HDR content looks great (or at least good enough for me to enjoy the hdr content(games/movies/shows)) on the projector.


@zaselim HDR10+ still not available in this fw


----------



## 3sprit

lattiboy said:


> That is his *hope*, but often international versions lose image customization options and increase in price. It would be extremely insulting if the early adopters who believed the marketing got screwed if no firmware update comes out. I would immediately stop suggesting Fengmi to anybody.


Has there ever been a firmware update?


----------



## mirkmito

3sprit said:


> Has there ever been a firmware update?


It's been on sale for a month ... not yet


----------



## Xspearo

zaselim said:


> What was the deciding factor for you to keep PX1-Pro over the T1?


I honestly don't see much of an improvement in picture quality and for regular television I think PX1-Pro looks better, but I'm not sure if I have settings correct 🤷 even tho there aren't many settings I could be missing something. I just love how on the PX1-Pro I can just use the one remote and makes it easy for my fiance to manage without bothering me much lol

I also have little patience especially when I already have something that works seamlessly.


----------



## 3sprit

mcusman2012 said:


> By next model i mean xiaomi ALPD4. They will soon release it and I bet it will be best.


Grégory refers to T1.
Where did he write about a Xiaomi Trilaser?


----------



## 3sprit

mirkmito said:


> It's been on sale for a month ... not yet


Any Chinese projector, not the T1.


----------



## mirkmito

3sprit said:


> Any Chinese projector, not the T1.


You didn't point it out ... however there have been updates in the past


----------



## zaselim

Xspearo said:


> I honestly don't see much of an improvement in picture quality and for regular television I think PX1-Pro looks better, but I'm not sure if I have settings correct 🤷 even tho there aren't many settings I could be missing something. I just love how on the PX1-Pro I can just use the one remote and makes it easy for my fiance to manage without bothering me much lol
> 
> I also have little patience especially when I already have something that works seamlessly.


Right. PX-1 is a great projector as well.
So did you not see any noticeable difference even if T1 has 600 more lumens? At least you might have felt the brighter picture (colors and overall brightness)?
May be I have a wrong understanding when it comes to have more lumens. I have had only one projector only.


----------



## 3sprit

mirkmito said:


> You didn't point it out ... however there have been updates in the past


I've read dozens and dozens of threads and I don't remember reading about any firmware updates available.
I must have skipped a few pages. 🤷‍♂️
I had an Epson UST and the updates were on the site. For a Fengmi Cinema I have never found anything. 🤔


----------



## Xspearo

zaselim said:


> Right. PX-1 is a great projector as well.
> So did you not see any noticeable difference even if T1 has 600 more lumens? At least you might have felt the brighter picture (colors and overall brightness)?


Honestly I did not. Brightness to me seemed about the same. I know some projects in certain settings drop lumens, but in previous Hisense UST they didn't drop by that much while others did, not sure if that is the case with the PX1-PRO. I just felt like I didn't see much of a difference in brightness. Color wise I felt like they are both very vivid and maybe with T1 being a little more detailed in blacks, but with active contrast on PX1-Pro it pretty much helps with that. Once again maybe I could have settings wrong on T1, but unfortunately I have little patience.


----------



## eezrider

I was sampling some content on Netflix last night looking for DV examples. In the process I looked at some scenes from _In from the Cold_ and found several scenes with extreme blown-out highlights. In E1, around 4:30, there is an interior scene in Madrid with brightly lit buildings outside. On my OLED these are well rendered, bright but still with plenty of detail. On the T1 the building detail was largely blown out. See comparison below. Ignore the color shift on the T1 (Office/Dark) which I think is my cellphone, the colors to the eye were generally very close to the LG. I checked that DV mode was active for these comparisons. Changing the brightness and DV mode had no effect on the highlights.

T1:









LG OLED:









You can see that it's not just the brightest colors that are lost - compare the window-sill and moulding details on the building on the left, for example.

There was another scene a few minutes later with similar highlight issues, also an interrogation scene with bright light coming in through venetian blinds where the T1 barely rendered the blinds in front of the light whereas the LG showed them much more clearly (they were much darker).

I'd be interested to see if others see the same issue with this scene. I wonder whether this might be a media player issue (I'm using an XboxOne X) or maybe as a result of the LG and T1 being connected in parallel - perhaps the EDID of the LG is sufficiently different to the T1 to cause the image to be optimized for one but not the other. I am away for a couple of days so I can't try changing connections. If you don't see the problem, please could you note what media player you are using. Thanks!


----------



## zaselim

eezrider said:


> I was sampling some content on Netflix last night looking for DV examples. In the process I looked at some scenes from _In from the Cold_ and found several scenes with extreme blown-out highlights. In E1, around 4:30, there is an interior scene in Madrid with brightly lit buildings outside. On my OLED these are well rendered, bright but still with plenty of detail. On the T1 the building detail was largely blown out. See comparison below. Ignore the color shift on the T1 (Office/Dark) which I think is my cellphone, the colors to the eye were generally very close to the LG. I checked that DV mode was active for these comparisons. Changing the brightness and DV mode had no effect on the highlights.
> 
> T1:
> View attachment 3235166
> 
> 
> LG OLED:
> View attachment 3235167
> 
> 
> You can see that it's not just the brightest colors that are lost - compare the window-sill and moulding details on the building on the left, for example.
> 
> There was another scene a few minutes later with similar highlight issues, also an interrogation scene with bright light coming in through venetian blinds where the T1 barely rendered the blinds in front of the light whereas the LG showed them much more clearly (they were much darker).
> 
> I'd be interested to see if others see the same issue with this scene. I wonder whether this might be a media player issue (I'm using an XboxOne X) or maybe as a result of the LG and T1 being connected in parallel - perhaps the EDID of the LG is sufficiently different to the T1 to cause the image to be optimized for one but not the other. I am away for a couple of days so I can't try changing connections. If you don't see the problem, please could you note what media player you are using. Thanks!


There is also some sort of texture (noise like) I am seeing on the white or lighter areas in T1. Seems as if the video playing on the T1 has less resolution.
White buildings far back also looking like just white wall where you can see the detail for those building in LG's (picture).


----------



## zaselim

Xspearo said:


> Honestly I did not. Brightness to me seemed about the same. I know some projects in certain settings drop lumens, but in previous Hisense UST they didn't drop by that much while others did, not sure if that is the case with the PX1-PRO. I just felt like I didn't see much of a difference in brightness. Color wise I felt like they are both very vivid and maybe with T1 being a little more detailed in blacks, but with active contrast on PX1-Pro it pretty much helps with that. Once again maybe I could have settings wrong on T1, but unfortunately I have little patience.


Right, Thanks for your thoughts.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Xspearo said:


> I honestly don't see much of an improvement in picture quality and for regular television I think PX1-Pro looks better, but I'm not sure if I have settings correct 🤷 even tho there aren't many settings I could be missing something. I just love how on the PX1-Pro I can just use the one remote and makes it easy for my fiance to manage without bothering me much lol
> 
> I also have little patience especially when I already have something that works seamlessly.


Does the PX1-Pro handle DV? Also - - you didn't see much of a difference with the black levels and the absence of gas & mist with the Fengmi T1 versus the PX1-Pro? Sounds like one of the biggest deciding factors for you was using one remote. I run everything through my AVR so I'm used to multiple remotes and a "caddy" to hold them. Also - - no difference in the speakers, sound wise? Enjoy your PX1-Pro!


----------



## zaselim

Ricoflashback said:


> Does the PX1-Pro handle DV? Also - - you didn't see much of a difference with the black levels and the absence of gas & mist with the Fengmi T1 versus the PX1-Pro? Sounds like one of the biggest deciding factors for you was using one remote. I run everything through my AVR so I'm used to multiple remotes and a "caddy" to hold them. Also - - no difference in the speakers, sound wise? Enjoy your PX1-Pro!


No at the moment PX-1 doesn't have DV support but I read on PX1 thread and in one of the early reviews (Youtube) that both L9G and PX-1 Pro are getting DV support in coming update.


----------



## spocky12

3sprit said:


> I've read dozens and dozens of threads and I don't remember reading about any firmware updates available.
> I must have skipped a few pages.
> I had an Epson UST and the updates were on the site. For a Fengmi Cinema I have never found anything.


Over the past 4 years and 3 UST generations, I'd say I've had at least 4 to 6 updates per year per model in the first 2 years of exploitation.
They didn't add much features, not did they update Android to another major version (I know they did for some tvs, though), but they provided fixes and general improvement on their os.

Whatever pure software issue you can imagine (hopefully red tint is one of them), I'd be surprised if they didn't fix it (I know for a fact they did update the low level calibration settings of the Fengmi cinema 4k in one of their updates).
I wouldn't hold my breath for new features requests (such as advanced CMS), though.

This is all the more true since most models of the same generation share the same firmware (T1 and C2 are both "Nemo" models and share the same firmware). So any improvement will benefit the entire product range.

Regarding the international models, I don't know if they changed their development strategy, but they didn't share most of their code and if I remember well, the mi UST laser 1080p international firmware was not developed by the same team as the Chinese model.


----------



## ngcoolman

CabbageMan said:


> I got my T1 the other day. First impressions are it is absolutely stunning. It is my 1st projector so I don't have much to compare it to but the picture on just the wall(will be ordering a screen soon) is beautiful. I'm not a big stickler for color accuracy, so all the fuss about it not being the most accurate hasn't bothered me at all, I just want it to look good and believe me it does!
> 
> That being said, do any current owners of this use a google TV as their streaming stick? The CEC functions for me work but not the best. Volume works. Powering on and off works but is inconsistent. The input button pulls up the menu on the right side of screen to change the input but the arrows and select button don't work to actually select a new input. Lattiboy told me his Shield TV and Roku work fine. Is anyone else experiencing this issue with their google TV or other streaming stick?


I tried Google tv before but found it had problem and returned it already. So can't verified the switch input problem for you. However, I returned it because I could get the stick to output atmos with the t1 built-in speakers system. Do you face the same problem or you use an external speaker system?


----------



## Ricoflashback

zaselim said:


> No at the moment PX-1 doesn't have DV support but I read on PX1 thread and in one of the early reviews (Youtube) that both L9G and PX-1 Pro are getting DV support in coming update.


It will be interesting to see how the PX1 handles DV content and their tone mapping. Its all over the map as far as I’m concerned with DV tone mapping - especially in the projector world.


----------



## ngcoolman

mirkmito said:


> Test Fengmi Formovie T1 : l’avis de Grégory. – – Le Blog de PHC –


Interestingly, out of the box without calibration t1 actually is more accurate than c2 in its various modes. There are two modes close to 6500k white point with less than 10 delta E (movie and child). Child mode maybe the best mode as it is brighter and have higher contrast than movie. Moreover, t1 game mode seems more usable with 7800k color temp and 13.6 deltaE compared to c2 over 10000k color temp + 22 deltaE.


----------



## eezrider

zaselim said:


> There is also some sort of texture (noise like) I am seeing on the white or lighter areas in T1. Seems as if the video playing on the T1 has less resolution.
> White buildings far back also looking like just white wall where you can see the detail for those building in LG's (picture).


Are you commenting on my photos or are you confirming you see the same thing?


----------



## zaselim

eezrider said:


> Are you commenting on my photos or are you confirming you see the same thing?


No I was just commenting on the photos you posted one from the T1 and and one from the LG TV. I saw the same textured effect on the photos the other user posted but he told me that the video playing on the projector was very low res.


----------



## eezrider

zaselim said:


> No I was just commenting on the photos you posted one from the T1 and and one from the LG TV. I saw the same textured effect on the photos the other user posted but he told me that the video playing on the projector was very low res.


The LG and T1 were in parallel so getting the same signal. I didn't recall any sense that the display had different resolution, only that the highlights were blown out. Can someone try this on their T1 and comment on what you see?


----------



## indieke2

Mixed feeling, just read that review.

Makes me think about what happen with the Fengmi C 2. For HDR, I had to adjust the picture all the time (denied by Gregory). I hoped for 6 months, that the HDR issue, read the Fengmi C 2 thread, would be solved in a next firmware. IT NEVER HAPPEN! Instead another C2 came out, which was a better finished product. But quality of the projection itself, are close identical in SDR. So they come out, with a projector, for people who want to switch tl 4K, but if you not use a Panasonic player, of a computer with MadVr, then 4K HDR is poor. Contrast change not help on this one.

SO, with the XIAOMI C2, we got *almost the same projector,* there is nothing revolutionary in PQ, compared to the Fengmi C2, only you pay here in Asia, 5, to 600 dollar more,because the software allowes DV and better handeling of the HDR signal. No presents for Fengmi C 2 owners, to just upgrade the firmware to have identical results.

Now, what we see, that Fengmi, goes a step further with the T1. A good hardware again, 3 lasers, DV, PROMISED HDR 10 + handeling. To again, have the same HDR problems and also reddish tint on DV.

So there are several options guys. Either as the T1 is announced all HDR systems, DV, they would have no choice to upgrade with a firmware, that solves all problems. The Fengmi C2 not had HDR on the box, maybe reason they never fixed it. This is not the case here. Either, they fix all for their next wonder, or the next XIAOMI model.

Sure, you are never future proof with projectors. Maybe China comes also out with fantastic hardware, with non adapted software. From what I hear, only the Xiaomi is a finished product and delivers what it promised. All is as announced, very good, the projector adapts to the content, and everybody can be happy. Only that the hardware of the T1 is in no doubt better!

Now you are never future proof. If the T1 problems WOULD be solved, it is an outstanding projector. But do I hear that it is time for a real 4K chip....

All I know to buy now is a tough decision. Sure it can wait again, but my vividstorm is waiting to be fed.


----------



## manwithnoname

mirkmito said:


> @manwithnoname
> 
> View attachment 3234870


Thank you so much!!


----------



## zoomx2

what’s the point to compare a UST with a OLED? How much is 100” and up TV going for now?


----------



## mcusman2012

eezrider said:


> I was sampling some content on Netflix last night looking for DV examples. In the process I looked at some scenes from _In from the Cold_ and found several scenes with extreme blown-out highlights. In E1, around 4:30, there is an interior scene in Madrid with brightly lit buildings outside. On my OLED these are well rendered, bright but still with plenty of detail. On the T1 the building detail was largely blown out. See comparison below. Ignore the color shift on the T1 (Office/Dark) which I think is my cellphone, the colors to the eye were generally very close to the LG. I checked that DV mode was active for these comparisons. Changing the brightness and DV mode had no effect on the highlights.
> 
> T1:
> View attachment 3235166
> 
> 
> LG OLED:
> View attachment 3235167
> 
> 
> You can see that it's not just the brightest colors that are lost - compare the window-sill and moulding details on the building on the left, for example.
> 
> There was another scene a few minutes later with similar highlight issues, also an interrogation scene with bright light coming in through venetian blinds where the T1 barely rendered the blinds in front of the light whereas the LG showed them much more clearly (they were much darker).
> 
> I'd be interested to see if others see the same issue with this scene. I wonder whether this might be a media player issue (I'm using an XboxOne X) or maybe as a result of the LG and T1 being connected in parallel - perhaps the EDID of the LG is sufficiently different to the T1 to cause the image to be optimized for one but not the other. I am away for a couple of days so I can't try changing connections. If you don't see the problem, please could you note what media player you are using. Thanks!


You say colors are fine and your cellphone issue? But contrast should have been good and is way off. You have to experiment with that image. In gregory review he said that every HDR/DV tone mapping is different. It can be an HDR settings issue on PJ or source handling issue. Try changing source(or turn on and off DV). You have to sleeve up for this T1 if you want accurate image. Every content and source device behaves differently. Gregory said to change contrast ,hue, and saturation(gamma). Its different for each content. Even he couldnt suggest a single best setting for HDR. DV is already buggy and unchangeable. See his review he corrected the x men mapping.


----------



## lattiboy

eezrider said:


> I was sampling some content on Netflix last night looking for DV examples. In the process I looked at some scenes from _In from the Cold_ and found several scenes with extreme blown-out highlights. In E1, around 4:30, there is an interior scene in Madrid with brightly lit buildings outside. On my OLED these are well rendered, bright but still with plenty of detail. On the T1 the building detail was largely blown out. See comparison below. Ignore the color shift on the T1 (Office/Dark) which I think is my cellphone, the colors to the eye were generally very close to the LG. I checked that DV mode was active for these comparisons. Changing the brightness and DV mode had no effect on the highlights.
> 
> T1:
> View attachment 3235166
> 
> 
> LG OLED:
> View attachment 3235167
> 
> 
> You can see that it's not just the brightest colors that are lost - compare the window-sill and moulding details on the building on the left, for example.
> 
> There was another scene a few minutes later with similar highlight issues, also an interrogation scene with bright light coming in through venetian blinds where the T1 barely rendered the blinds in front of the light whereas the LG showed them much more clearly (they were much darker).
> 
> I'd be interested to see if others see the same issue with this scene. I wonder whether this might be a media player issue (I'm using an XboxOne X) or maybe as a result of the LG and T1 being connected in parallel - perhaps the EDID of the LG is sufficiently different to the T1 to cause the image to be optimized for one but not the other. I am away for a couple of days so I can't try changing connections. If you don't see the problem, please could you note what media player you are using. Thanks!


Think it’s your HDMI setup as it looks fine to me. This is view mode /dark:










office mode / dark:


----------



## eezrider

lattiboy said:


> Think it’s your HDMI setup as it looks fine to me. This is view mode /dark:
> 
> View attachment 3235410
> 
> 
> office mode / dark:
> 
> View attachment 3235411


@lattiboy , thanks for checking, glad to see that this is likely not a projector issue. I'll experiment with my HDMI connections and see if I can get it working properly. The color balance shift between office and view mode is very clearly shown by your two shots, although I don't think it's that dramatic in person


----------



## Sunbox2408

eezrider said:


> I was sampling some content on Netflix last night looking for DV examples. In the process I looked at some scenes from _In from the Cold_ and found several scenes with extreme blown-out highlights. In E1, around 4:30, there is an interior scene in Madrid with brightly lit buildings outside. On my OLED these are well rendered, bright but still with plenty of detail. On the T1 the building detail was largely blown out. See comparison below. Ignore the color shift on the T1 (Office/Dark) which I think is my cellphone, the colors to the eye were generally very close to the LG. I checked that DV mode was active for these comparisons. Changing the brightness and DV mode had no effect on the highlights.
> 
> T1:
> View attachment 3235166
> 
> 
> LG OLED:
> View attachment 3235167
> 
> 
> You can see that it's not just the brightest colors that are lost - compare the window-sill and moulding details on the building on the left, for example.
> 
> There was another scene a few minutes later with similar highlight issues, also an interrogation scene with bright light coming in through venetian blinds where the T1 barely rendered the blinds in front of the light whereas the LG showed them much more clearly (they were much darker).
> 
> I'd be interested to see if others see the same issue with this scene. I wonder whether this might be a media player issue (I'm using an XboxOne X) or maybe as a result of the LG and T1 being connected in parallel - perhaps the EDID of the LG is sufficiently different to the T1 to cause the image to be optimized for one but not the other. I am away for a couple of days so I can't try changing connections. If you don't see the problem, please could you note what media player you are using. Thanks!


Office mode (note I am currently projecting on a wall painted with flat black paint - awaiting xy alr screen which is stuck in transit)


----------



## Sunbox2408

DeanM3 said:


> When my unit arrives I’m going to try to figure out how to trick it into thinking their proprietary speaker is hooked up. It’s simply connecting via 3.5mm jack, so no digital exchange is going on. I’ll hook up an oscilloscope and see if I can see what’s going on.


@DeanM3 mate did you get a chance to try this out? I do not have an existing audio setup but I am more than happy with the b&w speakers on the projector for our small room. Missing the bass so thinking of connecting a subwoofer. Any recommendations on what subwoofer would be best and what are the connectivity options?


----------



## shanedowley

spocky12 said:


> Over the past 4 years and 3 UST generations, I'd say I've had at least 4 to 6 updates per year per model in the first 2 years of exploitation.
> They didn't add much features, not did they update Android to another major version (I know they did for some tvs, though), but they provided fixes and general improvement on their os.
> 
> Whatever pure software issue you can imagine (hopefully red tint is one of them), I'd be surprised if they didn't fix it (I know for a fact they did update the low level calibration settings of the Fengmi cinema 4k in one of their updates).
> I wouldn't hold my breath for new features requests (such as advanced CMS), though.
> 
> This is all the more true since most models of the same generation share the same firmware (T1 and C2 are both "Nemo" models and share the same firmware). So any improvement will benefit the entire product range.
> 
> Regarding the international models, I don't know if they changed their development strategy, but they didn't share most of their code and if I remember well, the mi UST laser 1080p international firmware was not developed by the same team as the Chinese model.


With the Xiaomi C2 I’m now on my fourth Chinese UST having had the Xiaomi Mi Laser, Wemax A300 and Fengmi C2 previously. They’ll all had firmware updates over the years.

My Xiaomi C2 received a firmware update the other day to FengOS for PatchWall 1.4.5.1866

Given that the C2 and T1 are both the same base models, ‘Nemo’ and share the same firmware, I’d expect the T1 will get an update very soon.


----------



## humax

Sunbox2408 said:


> @DeanM3 mate did you get a chance to try this out? I do not have an existing audio setup but I am more than happy with the b&w speakers on the projector for our small room. Missing the bass so thinking of connecting a subwoofer. Any recommendations on what subwoofer would be best and what are the connectivity options?



[verified Supplier]fengmi Wireless 2.1 Audience Home Cinema Sounds Fengmi Wireless Subwoofer 2.1 Speaker Home Theater System - Buy Fengmi Subwoofer,Home Theater System,Fengmi Wireless Subwoofer 2.1 Product on Alibaba.com

I believe someone mentioned earlier that these will work with the T1. SW is only 6.5" though.


----------



## Adamgoodapp

Which sound mode are you guys using? Does Atmos play on all modes cause I found the custom section has Atmos on/off.


----------



## ngcoolman

Adamgoodapp said:


> Which sound mode are you guys using? Does Atmos play on all modes cause I found the custom section has Atmos on/off.


I believes all modes support atmos, at least this is what Netflix shows. I personally choose either game or movie mode.


----------



## DeanM3

Sunbox2408 said:


> @DeanM3 mate did you get a chance to try this out? I do not have an existing audio setup but I am more than happy with the b&w speakers on the projector for our small room. Missing the bass so thinking of connecting a subwoofer. Any recommendations on what subwoofer would be best and what are the connectivity options?


I’ve tried and confirmed that the 3.5mm cannot be used for subwoofer output. The only sub that works is the Fengmi 2.1 sub and it uses a usb module to transmit wirelessly. I’ve emailed Fengmi and requested that they add support for sub out via 3.5mm in future firmware, but who knows if they will actually do that. I’m going to wait it out a while and eventually get their 2.1 sub as the sound is so good on the t1 that I do not want to buy a dedicated soundbar and sub setup.


----------



## spocky12

shanedowley said:


> With the Xiaomi C2 I’m now on my fourth Chinese UST having had the Xiaomi Mi Laser, Wemax A300 and Fengmi C2 previously. They’ll all had firmware updates over the years.
> 
> My Xiaomi C2 received a firmware update the other day to FengOS for PatchWall 1.4.5.1866
> 
> Given that the C2 and T1 are both the same base models, ‘Nemo’ and share the same firmware, I’d expect the T1 will get an update very soon.


Already 1.4.6.1938 on my T1


----------



## Malaveae

Sunbox2408 said:


> Office mode (note I am currently projecting on a wall painted with flat black paint - awaiting xy alr screen which is stuck in transit)


A chineese reviewing the T1: 慧眼测评：直面痛点，峰米 T1全色激光电视_哔哩哔哩_bilibili
He took some measures for color of factory presets modes for Dolby and HDR. If you like, use smartphones translation app to see what it says on graph.
On Dolby and HDR, the modes down right seems to be more accurate but still some offsets for cyan and blue. 
Also, the reviewer is also wishing an update for the firmware.

Dolby







HDR


----------



## DunMunro

Here's the PHC review:



Test Fengmi Formovie T1 : l’avis de Grégory. – – Le Blog de PHC –


----------



## Tanizhq

Malaveae said:


> A chineese reviewing the T1: 慧眼测评：直面痛点，峰米 T1全色激光电视_哔哩哔哩_bilibili
> He took some measures for color of factory presets modes for Dolby and HDR. If you like, use smartphones translation app to see what it says on graph.
> On Dolby and HDR, the modes down right seems to be more accurate but still some offsets for cyan and blue.
> Also, the reviewer is also wishing an update for the firmware.
> 
> Dolby
> View attachment 3235572
> 
> HDR
> View attachment 3235576


Is someone able to translate these things haha?


----------



## zaselim

lattiboy said:


> Think it’s your HDMI setup as it looks fine to me. This is view mode /dark:
> 
> View attachment 3235410
> 
> 
> office mode / dark:
> 
> View attachment 3235411


Yes these pictures look far better. The building in the background are clear as well.
What is that noise like texture/pixelated (or over sharpened like texture) i am keeping seeing in the pictures. Is it because of the camera or too much sharpness? Or is it something else entirely?


----------



## Maqnvm7

zaselim said:


> Yes these pictures look far better. The building in the background are clear as well.
> What is that noise like texture/pixelated (or over sharpened like texture) i am keeping seeing in the pictures. Is it because of the camera or too much sharpness? Or is it something else entirely?


Yeah, almost looks like they’re drawn with watercolors or something


----------



## zaselim

Maqnvm7 said:


> Yeah, almost looks like they’re drawn with watercolors or something


Yes exactly. I don't know if its the projector or because of the screen or camera. Because I saw Optoma P2, L9G in person and they didn't had that kind of texture.
I just asked Gregory and he told me that its a laser speckle. In LG HU810p a couple of guys told me few months back that Matt flat (without any kind of texture) screen is effective with speckle. They told me if i already have a screen with any kind of texture and I am getting speckle i have two options, either get a new screen (the one i mentioned above) or paint your screen with matt paint to flatten the surface of the screen if i want no speckle on the screen.

What I wanna know from the owners of the T1 is how bad/visible is the speckle in person when you are watching a movie (because in stills you can notice them very clearly).


----------



## arsenalfc89

Xspearo said:


> Decided to just keep my PX1-PRO, so if anyone is interested in a T1 message me. Already have it listed on eBay also. Sorry if this kind of post is not allowed.


So not impressed with the T1 huh? I read the review of the TI, so far it reminds me of the Chroma, good picture but a lot of compromises. These ALPD units are selling themselves short of not including a CMS and I saw the PX1 with active contrast and it looks so good. I decided to invest in a Lumagen or I would have went with the Hisense PX1.


----------



## Brajesh

It's significantly better than the Chroma. Better blacks, DV support & no ghosting issue.


----------



## mcusman2012

zaselim said:


> Yes exactly. I don't know if its the projector or because of the screen or camera. Because I saw Optoma P2, L9G in person and they didn't had that kind of texture.
> I just asked Gregory and he told me that its a laser speckle. In LG HU810p a couple of guys told me few months back that Matt flat (without any kind of texture) screen is effective with speckle. They told me if i already have a screen with any kind of texture and I am getting speckle i have two options, either get a new screen (the one i mentioned above) or paint your screen with matt paint to flatten the surface of the screen if i want no speckle on the screen.
> 
> What I wanna know from the owners of the T1 is how bad/visible is the speckle in person when you are watching a movie (because in stills you can notice them very clearly).


In the review its not visible on whole screen but few parts and scenes(mainly stills). Its actually more a matter of personal tolerance i think. Some can tolerate the glittery effect without any issue but for some even a small amount of speckle is so troublesome that they sell it away. Few get used to it. There is shaker system which decreases speckle but i couldn't find its reviews. See this link




You can ask this spectroscreen for opinion as well


----------



## EvilEuro

arsenalfc89 said:


> So not impressed with the T1 huh? I read the review of the TI, so far it reminds me of the Chroma, good picture but a lot of compromises. These ALPD units are selling themselves short of not including a CMS and I saw the PX1 with active contrast and it looks so good. I decided to invest in a Lumagen or I would have went with the Hisense PX1.


Are you saying you're using a Lumagen with the T1 as a means of making up for the lack of a CMS? If so, has that taken care of any need to keep switching around between viewing modes, etc., and made the T1 more of a "set it and forget it" projector?


----------



## lattiboy

Ok, I’m willing to spend $250 on an HDfury if it makes sense. This thread has gotten so long I don’t know if anybody actually tried it correctly!

Do I just need the Fury 4K or also the Arcana? I’m deeply confused by the DV chain and if a PJ with built in DV will even work correctly with HDFury.


----------



## zaselim

mcusman2012 said:


> In the review its not visible on whole screen but few parts and scenes(mainly stills). Its actually more a matter of personal tolerance i think. Some can tolerate the glittery effect without any issue but for some even a small amount of speckle is so troublesome that they sell it away. Few get used to it. There is shaker system which decreases speckle but i couldn't find its reviews. See this link
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can ask this spectroscreen for opinion as well


Thanks for the video, I think it is tolerable when you watching a movie (in motion) than in stills. I have a DLP Lamp based 1080p 2000 Lumens (10 years old lol) projector and i even see that on it when right next to the screen but when watching a movie or playing a game i never noticed it. Even on motion less picture(paused movie or in game when stand by) i don't notice it from my sitting position which is around 12 feet from the screen. So if it is like that with these tri-laser projectors then i think its tolerable specially if every laser projector has it. Like i said on LG HU810p owner's thread, people there really experimented with many things including speckle issue and came up with the better quality picture.
But yeah these speckle reduction screen are one way to go if someone can't tolerate the the original amount speckle.


----------



## GaeIta80

Amazing performances also with DAZN in 1080p with calibrated image by Greg and with MEMC medium, smooth experience with football (those horizontal lines are produced by my phone camera, not present when watching).135' Image projected on a white wall


----------



## zaselim

GaeIta80 said:


> Amazing performances also with DAZN in 1080p with calibrated image by Greg and with MEMC medium, smooth experience with football (those horizontal lines are produced by my phone camera, not present when watching).135' Image projected on a white wall
> 
> View attachment 3235884
> 
> 
> View attachment 3235885
> 
> 
> View attachment 3235887


How's the detail in person when viewing content live specially in 4k?


----------



## Maqnvm7

lattiboy said:


> Ok, I’m willing to spend $250 on an HDfury if it makes sense. This thread has gotten so long I don’t know if anybody actually tried it correctly!
> 
> Do I just need the Fury 4K or also the Arcana? I’m deeply confused by the DV chain and if a PJ with built in DV will even work correctly with HDFury.


What for? To fix the red tint?


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

I might be willing to get a HDFury not for the red tint issue as they are not very predominant, but to fix the overly dark HDR stuff.
That is my only complaint, some movies are just too dark in HDR. DV has been good for me so far.
SDR is amazing.


----------



## GaeIta80

zaselim said:


> How's the detail in person when viewing content live specially in 4k?


Very good, even better than FullHD low res content as per previous screenshot. 

Also, have a look at a few DV pics (office/dark) of Boba Fett...Grogu never looked thar great


----------



## zaselim

GaeIta80 said:


> Very good, even better than FullHD low res content as per previous screenshot.
> 
> Also, have a look at a few DV pics (office/dark) of Boba Fett...Grogu never looked thar great
> 
> View attachment 3235958
> View attachment 3235959


Does his skin color is like that or is it because of the tint in DV? And are you projecting it on the wall?
Pictures looks nice by the way.


----------



## manwithnoname

GaeIta80 said:


> Very good, even better than FullHD low res content as per previous screenshot.
> 
> Also, have a look at a few DV pics (office/dark) of Boba Fett...Grogu never looked thar great
> 
> View attachment 3235958
> View attachment 3235959


There is a ton of pink in those shots, especially Mando's armor. 

I am a little worried now since I just ordered my T1 from China..... 

The clarity, and black levels look great, but those are not the correct colors for that episode. Grogu's robe should be tan/brown, and Mando's armor should be all grey's and silver's.


----------



## zaselim

manwithnoname said:


> There is a ton of pink in those shots, especially Mando's armor.
> 
> I am a little worried now since I just ordered my T1 from China.....
> 
> The clarity, and black levels look great, but those are not the correct colors for that episode. Grogu's robe should be tan/brown, and Mando's armor should be all grey's and silver's.


Yeah I am thinking of waiting this month and may be next month as well to see if there is an update coming or not and by then there will also be more owners of T1 to get the info from.


----------



## ngcoolman

Tanizhq said:


> Is someone able to translate these things haha?


@Malaveae basically covered most of the important points. Just add several points that maybe interesting to others.

1) the reviewer said HDR10 is brighter than DV which I think most T1 owners including myself will disagree with his statement.
2) the reviewer mentioned he wish firmware update can provide an option for brighter DV, but he didn't mention DV has the red tint issue. 

I feel that the reviewer may not be able to access to many HDR and DV contents (China has no access to netflix, disney+, apple tv....etc). So it is likely he just downloaded some demo clips for the testing which usually don't reflect normal content viewing scenarios.


----------



## indieke2

I read and heard enough. I am ordering the XIAOMI C 2 tomorrow.

I am sure that T 1 can be at his best, more impressive. But I prefer less tweaking, natural colors, HDR handled by the projector itself without changing calibration. 

Not much issues reported with the C2, there will always be the best new thing. I have a VIVIDSTORM screen, and I guess it will look good enough. 

T 1 has better potential, but needs to get rid of its flawns


----------



## mcusman2012

GaeIta80 said:


> Very good, even better than FullHD low res content as per previous screenshot.
> 
> Also, have a look at a few DV pics (office/dark) of Boba Fett...Grogu never looked thar great
> 
> View attachment 3235958
> View attachment 3235959


So cute pinky. Its red push all over. DV sleeping after giving liscence to T1.


----------



## mcusman2012

lattiboy said:


> Ok, I’m willing to spend $250 on an HDfury if it makes sense. This thread has gotten so long I don’t know if anybody actually tried it correctly!
> 
> Do I just need the Fury 4K or also the Arcana? I’m deeply confused by the DV chain and if a PJ with built in DV will even work correctly with HDFury.


I have been using HD fury vertex with optoma UHD51A for 2 years. They then release vertex 2 and now 8kvrroom. I got confused like you and asked them directly since i was planning for upgrade. Simply put vertex 2 +arcana+ whole new features 2.1=8kvrroom. I am now planning to order 8kvrroom. 8kvrroom will solve all your problems (future proof) but the projector will be in HDR 10 mode always and will be displaying DV content. Your right. I dont think anybody who actually owns hdfury have tried it with T1 since even i have not tried it with vertex/uhd51 setup because DV10 engine of zidoo z10pro does the job fine for me. 
See the link




Also see this link for using DV on hdr 10 PJ


https://www.hdfury.eu/add-dv-support-to-any-hdr10-display/









If your low on budget you can go to simple vertex as well which is cheap and will also do DV thing. You will never be in loss in HDFURY devices. These are always useful and worth.


----------



## lattiboy

GaeIta80 said:


> Very good, even better than FullHD low res content as per previous screenshot.
> 
> Also, have a look at a few DV pics (office/dark) of Boba Fett...Grogu never looked thar great
> 
> View attachment 3235958
> View attachment 3235959


I watched this same episode on the T1 and it was not nearly this pink. I’m guessing you didn’t color correct the photo, which is required when using office mode as the T1 shows pink in pictures that isn’t there in real life. Same with many tri lasers.

Office / dark has a pink tint for sure, but nothing like this. I’ll try and grab a photo of this scene corrected to in person when I get time.

EDIT: here’s my result. Tuned to what I see as best I can on an iPhone, but still a little off as tint/warmth is not enough to correct for color.









And here’s that same photo if I don’t correct at all. A picture that is very different from what you see in person and why you can’t really get details from photos on the internet. Everybody need to chill!


----------



## manwithnoname

lattiboy said:


> I watched this same episode on the T1 and it was not nearly this pink. I’m guessing you didn’t color correct the photo, which is required when using office mode as the T1 shows pink in pictures that isn’t there in real life. Same with many tri lasers.
> 
> Office / dark has a pink tint for sure, but nothing like this. I’ll try and grab a photo of this scene corrected to in person when I get time.
> 
> EDIT: here’s my result. Tuned to what I see as best I can on an iPhone, but still a little off as tint/warmth is not enough to correct for color.
> View attachment 3236108


Thank you for posting that! Looks great!


----------



## GaeIta80

zaselim said:


> Does his skin color is like that or is it because of the tint in DV? And are you projecting it on the wall?
> Pictures looks nice by the way.


Guys, don't know how to say it but the red push/tint is not there when you are watching DV content (in Office/Dark). I do believe that it does happen when you take a picture with a a phone camera and not a professional camera, so red/warm colours look blown up and oversaturated vs reality (+ those RGB horizontal lines visible only on pics). And projecting on a white wall surely doesn't help colour fidelity.

As Greg said, it's more a rich colourful effect created by the tri-laser.

Surely a fw update can calibrate better the DV experience but 99% of DV content I have tested so far hadn't this push/red tint.


----------



## GaeIta80

lattiboy said:


> I watched this same episode on the T1 and it was not nearly this pink. I’m guessing you didn’t color correct the photo, which is required when using office mode as the T1 shows pink in pictures that isn’t there in real life. Same with many tri lasers.
> 
> Office / dark has a pink tint for sure, but nothing like this. I’ll try and grab a photo of this scene corrected to in person when I get time.
> 
> EDIT: here’s my result. Tuned to what I see as best I can on an iPhone, but still a little off as tint/warmth is not enough to correct for color.
> View attachment 3236108
> 
> 
> And here’s that same photo if I don’t correct at all. A picture that is very different from what you see in person and why you can’t really get details from photos on the internet. Everybody need to chill!
> 
> View attachment 3236109


Thanks mate, I didn't correct any pics and tried to explain what happened In my post above. In real life, it does look exactly how you corrected the image 

@mirkmito was there with me to witness a few DV content testing with more likely a WOW experience than "oh this is pink".


----------



## lattiboy

watching the extremely stupid and gross Korean zombie show All Of Us Are Dead on Netflix. It looks incredible even though it’s utter trash. DV night/dark mode. Night is the best mode for color in DV, but you need to have a dark room for it to pop. I have two pot lights in the back on low in both of these.


----------



## lattiboy

GaeIta80 said:


> Thanks mate, I didn't correct any pics and tried to explain what happened In my post below. In real life, it does look exactly how you corrected the image
> 
> @mirkmito was there with me to witness a few DV content testing with more likely a WOW experience than "oh this is pink".


No worries! Not your responsibility to bother with this stuff, people just seem real worked up about this projector and aren’t used to the tri laser photo effect. It’s almost impossible to fully correct for. The Bomaker Polaris was even worse!


----------



## 3sprit

zaselim said:


> So if it is like that with these tri-laser projectors then i think its tolerable specially if every laser projector has it.


Every "tri-laser" laser projector. (At least for all current ones…)


----------



## 3sprit

lattiboy said:


> watching the extremely stupid and gross Korean zombie show All Of Us Are Dead on Netflix. It looks incredible even though it’s utter trash. DV night/dark mode. Night is the best mode for color in DV, but you need to have a dark room for it to pop. I have two pot lights in the back on low in both of these.
> 
> View attachment 3236117
> 
> View attachment 3236118


I don't see "speckle" here.
What kind of screen are you using?
Is it an ALR screen, for UST projector?


----------



## mayaCH

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Works for me, I saw it has "install untrusted apps" so figured it was exposed to standard android side loading, and things like ADB.
> 
> Was just trying to see if it had a web interface or something no luck, have not tried a full port scan or ssh or anything yet.
> 
> As for everybody saying this is locked at 60hz, any idea why my shield is only letting me go up to 4k 30hz?
> I had my TV set to 4K 60hz if I am not mistaken, my cables should be 8K 60hz rated (48gbps) but I'll have to test and verify, but even a pretty basic cable should still get my 4K60hz.
> 
> Edit: Fixed that issue too.
> 
> Changed the projector from HDMI 2.1 to HDMI 2.0 and it unlocked 4K 59.xx hz Dolby Vision and HDR.
> It has 4K 23.xx and it has 4K60 as well but 4K60 does not have Dolby Vision/HDR it seems.


how did you changed the HDMI version on pj? i stuck with 4k 30hz dv on shield pro. thx in advance


----------



## GaeIta80

mayaCH said:


> how did you changed the HDMI version on pj? i stuck with 4k 30hz dv on shield pro. thx in advance


No worries, during content playback click on options on remote control and select HDMi 2.0 to get 4k 60hz 🙂


----------



## ufokillerz

lattiboy said:


> watching the extremely stupid and gross Korean zombie show All Of Us Are Dead on Netflix. It looks incredible even though it’s utter trash. DV night/dark mode. Night is the best mode for color in DV, but you need to have a dark room for it to pop. I have two pot lights in the back on low in both of these.
> 
> View attachment 3236117
> 
> View attachment 3236118


kids and wife were watching this on the T1 with a 135" screen. definitely need more light control in the house. While these projectors can go up to a 150" screen, they need near total light control once you get bigger. Series is dumb, but my kids didn't find anything scary


----------



## spocky12

On my current setup (Nvidia Shield 2019 connected to Yamaha rxv-685 connected to the T1), the handshake issue is as follows : no matter what HDMI 2.x is selected on the t1 settings, each time it is powered on, my t1 is only 1080p (and the Shield allows only 1080p and 4k 30hz). 
I just need to select the other 2.x setting (2.1 if 2.0 is currently selected, 2.0 if it's currently on 2.1) and the handshake is performed correctly, allowing 4k 60Hz and DV.
Then everything is fine until next reboot.


----------



## GaeIta80

spocky12 said:


> On my current setup (Nvidia Shield 2019 connected to Yamaha rxv-685 connected to the T1), the handshake issue is as follows : no matter what HDMI 2.x is selected on the t1 settings, each time it is powered on, my t1 is only 1080p (and the Shield allows only 1080p and 4k 30hz).
> I just need to select the other 2.x setting (2.1 if 2.0 is currently selected, 2.0 if it's currently on 2.1) and the handshake is performed correctly, allowing 4k 60Hz and DV.
> Then everything is fine until next reboot.


Maybe it's an AVR HDMI handshake issue, I have got the Firestick 4k Max straight into HDMI 1 and it's always 2.0 4k 60hz power off/on


----------



## mayaCH

spocky12 said:


> On my current setup (Nvidia Shield 2019 connected to Yamaha rxv-685 connected to the T1), the handshake issue is as follows : no matter what HDMI 2.x is selected on the t1 settings, each time it is powered on, my t1 is only 1080p (and the Shield allows only 1080p and 4k 30hz).
> I just need to select the other 2.x setting (2.1 if 2.0 is currently selected, 2.0 if it's currently on 2.1) and the handshake is performed correctly, allowing 4k 60Hz and DV.
> Then everything is fine until next reboot.


i had something similar with my yamaha rx-a3060, for me 4k 30hz and no dv. there is an advanced configuration menu, where you can change hdmi mode 1 (default 2, and no, this is not hdmi version), with mode 1 i got 40k 30hz with dv (now i go to test @Gaelta80's suggestion to achieve 60hz).

as @Gaetlta80 suggested, try first to go directly to pj hdmi, if that helps, you can look maybe there is something similiar with your rx-v receivers too


----------



## mayaCH

GaeIta80 said:


> No worries, during content playback click on options on remote control and select HDMi 2.0 to get 4k 60hz 🙂


Thanks! Fixed! I didn't knew about this extra menu at all


----------



## eezrider

Does forcing DV on a media player effectively remove the need to adjust the projector settings for different HDR movies? Specifically, are movies that are too dark in HDR acceptably brighter when streamed as DV? If so, do the different media players that offer this option produce images that look the same? 

This 'hack", if it works, was not mentioned by Gregory.

My Xbox One X supports DV for streaming but doesn't seem to allow it to be forced on. 

Also, given the projector doesn't appear to support turning off DV, I presume there is no value (WRT LLDV) in using an HDFury device in the chain.


----------



## shanedowley

spocky12 said:


> On my current setup (Nvidia Shield 2019 connected to Yamaha rxv-685 connected to the T1), the handshake issue is as follows : no matter what HDMI 2.x is selected on the t1 settings, each time it is powered on, my t1 is only 1080p (and the Shield allows only 1080p and 4k 30hz).
> I just need to select the other 2.x setting (2.1 if 2.0 is currently selected, 2.0 if it's currently on 2.1) and the handshake is performed correctly, allowing 4k 60Hz and DV.
> Then everything is fine until next reboot.


Am seeing same behaviour with the Xiaomi C2 and AppleTV (5th gen) with Sony HT-A7000 Soundbar as AVR/HDMI switch.


----------



## zaselim

GaeIta80 said:


> Guys, don't know how to say it but the red push/tint is not there when you are watching DV content (in Office/Dark). I do believe that it does happen when you take a picture with a a phone camera and not a professional camera, so red/warm colours look blown up and oversaturated vs reality (+ those RGB horizontal lines visible only on pics). And projecting on a white wall surely doesn't help colour fidelity.
> 
> As Greg said, it's more a rich colourful effect created by the tri-laser.
> 
> Surely a fw update can calibrate better the DV experience but 99% of DV content I have tested so far hadn't this push/red tint.


Oh, That is really good to hear. And yeah you can't get actual result from the phone camera and people have to know that when looking at the picture specially when you are not seeing the detail and the scene in the picture is looking flat/soft like this here.


----------



## zaselim

3sprit said:


> Every "tri-laser" laser projector. (At least for all current ones…)


LGHU810p is dual laser I think and it has the speckle as well as far as I read in the owners thread and to counter it they are using flat surface screens.


----------



## Decadent_Spectre

Could someone please link to the T1 manufacturer page? I can't find it.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

spocky12 said:


> On my current setup (Nvidia Shield 2019 connected to Yamaha rxv-685 connected to the T1), the handshake issue is as follows : no matter what HDMI 2.x is selected on the t1 settings, each time it is powered on, my t1 is only 1080p (and the Shield allows only 1080p and 4k 30hz).
> I just need to select the other 2.x setting (2.1 if 2.0 is currently selected, 2.0 if it's currently on 2.1) and the handshake is performed correctly, allowing 4k 60Hz and DV.
> Then everything is fine until next reboot.


Same, Shield Pro I have to check once in a while to see if it went back to 30hz.
The AVR is a HDMI 2.1 capable currently set at 4K Enhanced mode for HDMI, I can up that to 8K or 8K Enhanced but that doesn't seem to really make a difference.


----------



## EvilEuro

GaeIta80 said:


> Guys, don't know how to say it but the red push/tint is not there when you are watching DV content (in Office/Dark). I do believe that it does happen when you take a picture with a a phone camera and not a professional camera, so red/warm colours look blown up and oversaturated vs reality (+ those RGB horizontal lines visible only on pics). And projecting on a white wall surely doesn't help colour fidelity.
> 
> As Greg said, it's more a rich colourful effect created by the tri-laser.


Dave Harper addressed this issue a little earlier today in the thread on the Hisense PX-1, another tri-laser projector. It explains why people's photos are picking up a reddish hue which isn't normally being seen with the naked eye.



> The green laser in an RGB laser projector has a much wider gamut at around BT2020. The camera used to capture that image can’t render the green fully saturated, so it clips earlier than the Red and Blue do, and those two colors (less green) when mixed equal magenta.
> 
> The camera may only be able to capture Rec709 or P3 level colors. If you compare all the gamut charts you’ll see that full red and blue are all not very far off from each other. The main color that changes the most between BT2020, DCI-P3 and Rec709 is green. So when your camera can’t capture that wider gamut, it loses green, causing that magenta hue.


----------



## Ricoflashback

lattiboy said:


> watching the extremely stupid and gross Korean zombie show All Of Us Are Dead on Netflix. It looks incredible even though it’s utter trash. DV night/dark mode. Night is the best mode for color in DV, but you need to have a dark room for it to pop. I have two pot lights in the back on low in both of these.
> 
> View attachment 3236117
> 
> View attachment 3236118


I'm still blown away by the black levels and contrast of your pics. Does it really look this good in person or are you using a magic camera?


----------



## Ricoflashback

ufokillerz said:


> kids and wife were watching this on the T1 with a 135" screen. definitely need more light control in the house. While these projectors can go up to a 150" screen, they need near total light control once you get bigger. Series is dumb, but my kids didn't find anything scary


I'm looking at a 110" to 120" max screen size. I don't know if I'll have any issues with this size or not. I'll also match it with a quality UST ALR screen. What type of screen do you have? For folks who watch mostly at night - - I don't think screen size will make as much difference but I'm sure there is a drop off in lumens the larger your screen is.


----------



## ufokillerz

Ricoflashback said:


> I'm looking at a 110" to 120" max screen size. I don't know if I'll have any issues with this size or not. I'll also match it with a quality UST ALR screen. What type of screen do you have? For folks who watch mostly at night - - I don't think screen size will make as much difference but I'm sure there is a drop off in lumens the larger your screen is.


mines uses the "T-Prism" fabric, but its very inferior to proper lenticular UST screens. Anything 120 and under should have proper Lenticular or Pet Crystal type of material.


----------



## 3sprit

zaselim said:


> LGHU810p is dual laser I think and it has the speckle as well as far as I read in the owners thread and to counter it they are using flat surface screens.


Xiaomi TV2 "should be" dual laser and has no speckle.
I've read on tri-laser Samsung thread that the problem with flat screens reduces the problem. Too bad the advantage of an ALR screen is lost.


----------



## zoomx2

Same movie 5:00 afternoon not completely dark yet. Light on across the room.


----------



## zoomx2

6:00 light on dimmed


----------



## humax

zoomx2 said:


> 6:00 light on dimmed


What screen are you using with the T1?


----------



## zoomx2

No brand, 100” Pet Crystal from Alibaba. Purchased with T1 together


----------



## zaselim

zoomx2 said:


> No brand, 100” Pet Crystal from Alibaba. Purchased with T1 together


How did you get the T1 from AliBaba, they are selling in multiple units. So far i have seen minimum of 2 unit and no single unit.


----------



## eezrider

zaselim said:


> How did you get the T1 from AliBaba, they are selling in multiple units. So far i have seen minimum of 2 unit and no single unit.


Contact Wupro or Ruichi and they will quote for a single


----------



## nwanda

@GaeIta80 Do you see any juddering? Especially on the moving ball, I went to my local supplier to view and saw juddering on their setup



GaeIta80 said:


> Amazing performances also with DAZN in 1080p with calibrated image by Greg and with MEMC medium, smooth experience with football (those horizontal lines are produced by my phone camera, not present when watching).135' Image projected on a white wall


----------



## zaselim

eezrider said:


> Contact Wupro or Ruichi and they will quote for a single


Yeah got it, Thanks.
Did guys pay customs tax?


----------



## Sunbox2408

zaselim said:


> Yeah got it, Thanks.
> Did guys pay customs tax?


They declare value under $700 which doesn't trigger custom tax , make sure you ask them of this.


----------



## zaselim

Sunbox2408 said:


> They declare value under $700 which doesn't trigger custom tax , make sure you ask them of this.


how did you ask them? And won't it effect the actual invoice/value incase you have to return the item back?


----------



## zoomx2

You may want to start page1 in this thread.


----------



## Sunbox2408

zaselim said:


> how did you ask them? And won't it effect the actual invoice/value incase you have to return the item back?


I bought locally (au) from nothingbutlabel hence didn't have to go through this however before I ordered when I was talking to ruichi and wupro they offered that they will set the customs value claim less than 600usd without me asking. This is separate to the invoice and order that they will share with you.


----------



## zaselim

Sunbox2408 said:


> I bought locally (au) from nothingbutlabel hence didn't have to go through this however before I ordered when I was talking to ruichi and wupro they offered that they will set the customs value claim less than 600usd without me asking. This is separate to the invoice and order that they will share with you.


Got it, there's chat with the seller option.


----------



## lattiboy

Quick tip for a T1 owners: When watching an HDR 10 piece of media, adjust brightness to about 53 and contrast to about 66. I’ve tried it now with five movies and only had to adjust more contrast (71) to one of them.

If there was a quick setting for another custom image mode or an automatic custom HDR mode I don’t think anybody would have an issue with HDR on the T1. It really does an excellent job with that boost. The tonemapping is not actually bad, it’s just set too low.

I use the movie Jolt as my reference, which Gregory uses and is a real contrast test for any display. With the above settings it was indistinguishable from the Xaomi C2. It’s unfortunate it’s such a terrible movie, because it really does look incredible.


----------



## slickrock

ufokillerz said:


> mines uses the "T-Prism" fabric, but its very inferior to proper lenticular UST screens. Anything 120 and under should have proper Lenticular or Pet Crystal type of material.


I thought T-Prism and lenticular are synonymous. Perhaps you are using a fresnel screen since you say it very inferior.

Can provide more detail and experience with your 135" screen? Where did you source it? Is there enough brightness to use the screen at night with overhead lights? Is your T1 a non-light-controlled room? Most UST users max out at 120" with CLR/ALR screens, but I'm thinking of pushing to 130-135" CLR, and wondering if the T1 is bright enough at the larger surface area.


----------



## ufokillerz

slickrock said:


> I thought T-Prism and lenticular are synonymous. Perhaps you are using a fresnel screen since you say it very inferior.
> 
> Can provide more detail and experience with your 135" screen? Where did you source it? Is there enough brightness to use the screen at night with overhead lights? Is your T1 a non-light-controlled room? Most UST users max out at 120" with CLR/ALR screens, but I'm thinking of pushing to 130-135" CLR, and wondering if the T1 is bright enough at the larger surface area.











Formovie Fengmi T1


Gregory’s review will be out this week. From his blog today - “Le test du Fengmi T1 sera en ligne cette semaine…” https://www.passionhomecinema.fr/blog/index.php/02/02/2022/fengmi-formovie-t1-un-projecteur-triple-laser-ultra-courte-focale-avec-support-dolby-vision/




www.avsforum.com




I laid Vividstorm UST sample on top of my screen for comparison. The Tprism is NOT lenticular.
I have the Screenpro Tprism 135 from samsav. At night with over head lights is a depends, some amblient dim lights is ok. My Room is not light controlled. At night the screen is ok. I think most users max at 120 because thats the largest size that Lenticular screens are available in. Anything after that is Pet Grid or T-Prism which are very inferior to Lenticular/pet crystal


----------



## whiskthecat

Is anyone using T1 with a desktop media PC? The Wemax Nova I had suffered from constant handshaking issues and you had to flip between HDMI revision multiple times to get it to properly display 4k60.


----------



## Malaveae

ufokillerz said:


> Formovie Fengmi T1
> 
> 
> Gregory’s review will be out this week. From his blog today - “Le test du Fengmi T1 sera en ligne cette semaine…” https://www.passionhomecinema.fr/blog/index.php/02/02/2022/fengmi-formovie-t1-un-projecteur-triple-laser-ultra-courte-focale-avec-support-dolby-vision/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid Vividstorm UST sample on top of my screen for comparison. The Tprism is NOT lenticular.
> I have the Screenpro Tprism 135 from samsav. At night with over head lights is a depends, some amblient dim lights is ok. My Room is not light controlled. At night the screen is ok. I think most users max at 120 because thats the largest size that Lenticular screens are available in. Anything after that is Pet Grid or T-Prism which are very inferior to Lenticular/pet crystal


I´m also fan of a 130-135" projector screen, but it seems that T1 could offer a around 2500 lumens using Standard/Office Mode (based on Gregory review table). Based on Texas Instrument graph (DLP chip) below this limits the projector to Dark and Dim room at that screen size (120-140"). For a Lit Room the 120" works and is the sweet spot for this chip and projector. For brighter rooms (more than 300 nits) a +100" screen will need more lumens (+3000) projector. The mayority of ALR/CLR screens even have less than 1 gain.

The other variable is the sharpness of the T1 at +130". So that can also be a factor to favored the 100-120" screen size range.
EDIT: HAHAHA, I forgot of course the room space and your eye safety distance as the other variables.


----------



## zoomx2

slickrock said:


> I thought T-Prism and lenticular are synonymous. Perhaps you are using a fresnel screen since you say it very inferior.
> 
> Can provide more detail and experience with your 135" screen? Where did you source it? Is there enough brightness to use the screen at night with overhead lights? Is your T1 a non-light-controlled room? Most UST users max out at 120" with CLR/ALR screens, but I'm thinking of pushing to 130-135" CLR, and wondering if the T1 is bright enough at the larger surface area.


T1 can produce bright images no doubt about it. I only use night mode, view mode is a bit too bright at night. I tested the 4k demo on YouTube the colour is amazing even during the afternoon. The only problem I have is in the morning the sunlight is so strong and coming from the side windows in my room which has nothing to do with the unit. See picture kind of diluted.


----------



## CabbageMan

zoomx2 said:


> T1 can produce bright images no doubt about it. I only use night mode, view mode is a bit too bright at night. I tested the 4k demo on YouTube the colour is amazing even during the afternoon. The only problem I have is in the morning the sunlight is so strong and coming from the side windows in my room which has nothing to do with the unit. See picture kind of diluted.
> View attachment 3236765


Can you link the stand you are using?


----------



## DeanM3

Formovie ( Fengmi ) has already responded to my email about firmware requests ( and the DV red issue). They seem very responsive. Make sure everyone here gets back to them and hopefully we get a fix soon.


----------



## lattiboy

DeanM3 said:


> Formovie ( Fengmi ) has already responded to my email about firmware requests ( and the DV red issue). They seem very responsive. Make sure everyone here gets back to them and hopefully we get a fix soon.


Just got my response too. Hopefully they actually do something. Here’s my whole email and their response:


----------



## zoomx2

CabbageMan said:


> Can you link the stand you are using?


It was custom made before just happens perfect height and depth for T1.


----------



## Ricoflashback

zoomx2 said:


> 6:00 light on dimmed
> View attachment 3236510


Another lousy picture from the Fengmi T1. Geez, guys and gals, can you stop with this projector porn?


----------



## Ricoflashback

lattiboy said:


> Just got my response too. Hopefully they actually do something. Here’s my whole email and their response:
> 
> View attachment 3236844
> 
> View attachment 3236845
> 
> 
> View attachment 3236846


Nice write-up. Hopefully, they respond. For any of you who purchased through Nothingbutlabel - - I'd suggest seeing if Eric can find out more information. He's been very responsive in answering the questions I have and maybe his voice can carry extra weight, as well.


----------



## GaeIta80

Ricoflashback said:


> Nice write-up. Hopefully, they respond. For any of you who purchased through Nothingbutlabel - - I'd suggest seeing if Eric can find out more information. He's been very responsive in answering the questions I have and maybe his voice can carry extra weight, as well.


Yeah will give him a shout, he seems to have a direct line with Fengmi so maybe that can speed up a firmware fix 😉


----------



## GaeIta80

lattiboy said:


> Just got my response too. Hopefully they actually do something. Here’s my whole email and their response:
> 
> View attachment 3236844
> 
> View attachment 3236845
> 
> 
> View attachment 3236846


Do you think they can update the HDR mapping/custom image so when T1 detects am HDR content, automatically displays the HDRA logo reading all metà data as it happens on my OLED?


----------



## lattiboy

GaeIta80 said:


> Do you think they can update the HDR mapping/custom image so when T1 detects am HDR content, automatically displays the HDRA logo reading all metà data as it happens on my OLED?


Possibly, but what I actually want is detection of HDR10 which would then go to a separate custom image setting automatically. This is pretty standard across modern projectors. All Hisense, LG, and even my Bomaker Polaris had this feature. It’s maddening none of these Chinese PJs do. It’d be an absolutely minuscule change to make and with addressing red push in DV would make the PJ almost perfect to me.


----------



## Ricoflashback

lattiboy said:


> Possibly, but what I actually want is detection of HDR10 which would then go to a separate custom image setting automatically. This is pretty standard across modern projectors. All Hisense, LG, and even my Bomaker Polaris had this feature. It’s maddening none of these Chinese PJs do. It’d be an absolutely minuscule change to make and with addressing red push in DV would make the PJ almost perfect to me.


Excellent recommendation. FYI - I have a BenQ TK700STi projector that is really a gaming PJ but one of the few that would fit in my smaller mancave. So, the HDR (not DV capable) is so-so but always with Amazon Prime content - - the picture is never as good as Netflix or SDR even. Sometimes, I find SDR better than HDR on the multiple streaming sites I subscribe to.

With the Nvidia Shield Pro - - I've heard that you can change the settings to 8-bit to turn off HDR. My main point is that there should be an easier way to make adjustments to the Fengmi T1 for HDR/DV content where you can save multiple settings or just plain turn HDR/DV off. The Chinese are very bright and I don't think this is a technical limitation. It's just whether they want to implement it or not.

P.S. - just a general comment on HDR/DV with projectors. A PJ will never reach the brightness level of an OLED or LCD TV. Therefore, the tone mapping is crucial in determining picture quality. The poor picture with HDR on my projector with Amazon Prime's "Reacher" looked great on my Sony 48" A9S OLED TV. But that's due to Sony's excellent processing and the capabilities, nits wise, with an OLED TV versus a projector. I'd settle for a great SDR picture all of the time with great colors, pop and sharpness. With HDR/DV - - it's making the best of a bad situation unless you step up to JVC processing (DTM) or really spend big bucks on a Lumagen or MadVR Envy Pro.


----------



## lattiboy

Ricoflashback said:


> Excellent recommendation. FYI - I have a BenQ TK700STi projector that is really a gaming PJ but one of the few that would fit in my smaller mancave. So, the HDR (not DV capable) is so-so but always with Amazon Prime content - - the picture is never as good as Netflix or SDR even. Sometimes, I find SDR better than HDR on the multiple streaming sites I subscribe to.
> 
> With the Nvidia Shield Pro - - I've heard that you can change the settings to 8-bit to turn off HDR. My main point is that there should be an easier way to make adjustments to the Fengmi T1 for HDR/DV content where you can save multiple settings or just plain turn HDR/DV off. The Chinese are very bright and I don't think this is a technical limitation. It's just whether they want to implement it or not.


My whole thing is asking them for relatively low effort, high impact changes. Adding new features like a full CMS or extended HDMI information are things that would likely take a group of engineers a fair amount of time to do and require a lot of software work.

Adding a custom image setting and adjusting the color balance in Dolby Vision are likely much smaller changes that we could reasonably expect in the near future. 

Also, the big companies have been absolutely horrible about firmware updates for laser PJs. The LG HU810P hasn’t gotten a single one, nor the Hisense L9. Both of those projectors are more expensive and have been out for over a year now.

Final thought, I would not be surprised if Fengmi simply copied the Dolby Vision from the Xaomi C2 directly to the T1 without any changes or accounting for the extra laser and color space abilities. 

If you think this is improbable, there is very valid speculation that LG did this exact thing with the HU810P and HDR. They simply copied their OLED DTM tonemapping directly to the projector, even though it has nowhere near the brightness or contrast. The result is HDR that requires an advanced degree to adjust for literally everything you watch, and often needing adjustments during individual scenes.


----------



## Xspearo

lattiboy said:


> My whole thing is asking them for relatively low effort, high impact changes. Adding new features like a full CMS or extended HDMI information are things that would likely take a group of engineers a fair amount of time to do and require a lot of software work.
> 
> Adding a custom image setting and adjusting the color balance in Dolby Vision are likely much smaller changes that we could reasonably expect in the near future.
> 
> Also, the big companies have been absolutely horrible about firmware updates for laser PJs. The LG HU810P hasn’t gotten a single one, nor the Hisense L9. Both of those projectors are more expensive and have been out for over a year now.
> 
> Final thought, I would not be surprised if Fengmi simply copied the Dolby Vision from the Xaomi C2 directly to the T1 without any changes or accounting for the extra laser and color space abilities.
> 
> If you think this is improbable, there is very valid speculation that LG did this exact thing with the HU810P and HDR. They simply copied their OLED DTM tonemapping directly to the projector, even though it has nowhere near the brightness or contrast. The result is HDR that requires an advanced degree to adjust for literally everything you watch, and often needing adjustments during individual scenes.


It might take a bit more effort and resources but this would also be something they could implement into future models. They gotta start somewhere 🤷‍♂️ lol


----------



## CabbageMan

GaeIta80 said:


> Maybe it's an AVR HDMI handshake issue, I have got the Firestick 4k Max straight into HDMI 1 and it's always 2.0 4k 60hz power off/on


My GoogleTV is doing the same thing. it is defaulting to 1080p when booted up. I have to switch from 2.0 to 2.1, or vice versa, to get 4k60. You are saying your Firestick 4k Max does not have this issue and always boots up to 4k60? If so, I might have to switch to that. Do you put the projector in stand by mode or do you turn it all the way off?


----------



## GaeIta80

CabbageMan said:


> My GoogleTV is doing the same thing. it is defaulting to 1080p when booted up. I have to switch from 2.0 to 2.1, or vice versa, to get 4k60. You are saying your Firestick 4k Max does not have this issue and always boots up to 4k60? If so, I might have to switch to that. Do you put the projector in stand by mode or do you turn it all the way off?


I always power it off, no standby.


----------



## driege

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Same, Shield Pro I have to check once in a while to see if it went back to 30hz.
> The AVR is a HDMI 2.1 capable currently set at 4K Enhanced mode for HDMI, I can up that to 8K or 8K Enhanced but that doesn't seem to really make a difference.


I've solved this problem by getting this EDID emulator that someone posted here. It also allows me to display 4K 60 Hz SDR on the Shield, which otherwise doesn't seem possible. 

I've found that most HDR/Dolby Vision appears too dark on this projector, but everything looks fantastic in SDR. In my experience, HDR looks worse than SDR unless you have an extremely capable TV, so I'm happy to watch everything in SDR.

Despite that compromise, I couldn't be more thrilled with this projector. The black levels, contrast, and color vibrancy are incredible. I also have an 83" A90J OLED (essentially the best TV that exists). Before I got the T1, I strongly preferred the OLED to my old Vava on a 120" screen. Now I prefer the projector (T1) for night time viewing.


----------



## Ricoflashback

driege said:


> I've solved this problem by getting this EDID emulator that someone posted here. It also allows me to display 4K 60 Hz SDR on the Shield, which otherwise doesn't seem possible.
> 
> I've found that most HDR/Dolby Vision appears too dark on this projector, but everything looks fantastic in SDR. In my experience, HDR looks worse than SDR unless you have an extremely capable TV, so I'm happy to watch everything in SDR.
> 
> Despite that compromise, I couldn't be more thrilled with this projector. The black levels, contrast, and color vibrancy are incredible. I also have an 83" A90J OLED (essentially the best TV that exists). Before I got the T1, I strongly preferred the OLED to my old Vava on a 120" screen. Now I prefer the projector (T1) for night time viewing.


So, if I use the EDID emulator (connected to the output of my AVR that's going into my projector?) - - no HDR, just SDR?

Whoops - just saw this on a write-up: 
The product is smart, well made and small. It does work, but not at the spec given in the product description. Given that the listing states this supports RGB (not just YCbCr) and [email protected], I assumed it would support both together - it does not.

Despite choosing the 4K option, the default resolution this device reports is in fact 1080p.
There is also NO HDCP passthrough on this device, which I suspect will also make it less useful for many people.

In short, it works and will probably do the job for some people that don't care/notice the deficiency at first glance, but it does NOT work the way it's advertised.


----------



## driege

Ricoflashback said:


> So, if I use the EDID emulator (connected to the output of my AVR that's going into my projector?) - - no HDR, just SDR?
> 
> Whoops - just saw this on a write-up:
> The product is smart, well made and small. It does work, but not at the spec given in the product description. Given that the listing states this supports RGB (not just YCbCr) and [email protected], I assumed it would support both together - it does not.
> 
> Despite choosing the 4K option, the default resolution this device reports is in fact 1080p.
> There is also NO HDCP passthrough on this device, which I suspect will also make it less useful for many people.
> 
> In short, it works and will probably do the job for some people that don't care/notice the deficiency at first glance, but it does NOT work the way it's advertised.


Yes, it's just SDR which I actually prefer on a projector (at least without some form of amazing HDR tone mapping). I've never tried to use RGB - is there a reason I should care about that? Even when directly connected without the emulator, the Shield defaults to using YUV rather than RGB.


----------



## Ricoflashback

driege said:


> Yes, it's just SDR which I actually prefer on a projector (at least without some form of amazing HDR tone mapping). I've never tried to use RGB - is there a reason I should care about that? Even when directly connected without the emulator, the Shield defaults to using YUV rather than RGB.


Yes, I think you’re right. My mistake. I think I might try it. It sounds like a nice solution. I’m fine with SDR on a projector as well. I think I can connect it to the output from my AVR going to my projector, correct? Or, from my NVidia Shield Pro to my AVR? That will simplify everything for me. Trying to chase HDR/DV picture quality on a projector is a rathole as far as I’m concerned.


----------



## Trebbs

Sort of a general question: Are DLP/other projectors more prone to judder than other 60hz displays? Watching various RPTV/DLP/LCD sets over the years, I do notice things like an occasional janky pan, but have never really been bothered by it. Wondering due to all the talk about motion interpolation in this and the C2 thread.


----------



## lattiboy

driege said:


> I've solved this problem by getting this EDID emulator that someone posted here. It also allows me to display 4K 60 Hz SDR on the Shield, which otherwise doesn't seem possible.
> 
> I've found that most HDR/Dolby Vision appears too dark on this projector, but everything looks fantastic in SDR. In my experience, HDR looks worse than SDR unless you have an extremely capable TV, so I'm happy to watch everything in SDR.
> 
> Despite that compromise, I couldn't be more thrilled with this projector. The black levels, contrast, and color vibrancy are incredible. I also have an 83" A90J OLED (essentially the best TV that exists). Before I got the T1, I strongly preferred the OLED to my old Vava on a 120" screen. Now I prefer the projector (T1) for night time viewing.


Thanks for this. I sometimes worried I was being hyperbolic about how good the T1 looked as my only other display is an older Sony X900E, and my only exposure to higher end TV models was Best Buy or Video Only for brief periods. Having somebody who owns essentially the best TV on the planet say a T1 is in its league is a bigger deal to me than dozens of reviews or conjecture.

I watched the 1980 movie The Long Good Friday last night with my wife and was absolutely amazed by how much I felt like I was in a small art house theater. The remastered version had vibrant colors and it straight up looked like a film projection. Night mode with Gregory’s settings, low ambient light, and a little tone adjustment for your room and screen is about as perfect as you can get for a projector. I forgot to grab pictures to post here, but I try not to be a complete weirdo in front of other people


----------



## jakechoy

Ricoflashback said:


> Yes, I think you’re right. My mistake. I think I might try it. It sounds like a nice solution. I’m fine with SDR on a projector as well. I think I can connect it to the output from my AVR going to my projector, correct? Or, from my NVidia Shield Pro to my AVR? That will simplify everything for me. Trying to chase HDR/DV picture quality on a projector is a rathole as far as I’m concerned.


Why? The nvidia can default to non HDR mode. Do it in the display settings. U can even set a default 4K 60hz non HDR/DV mode.


----------



## zaselim

driege said:


> I've solved this problem by getting this EDID emulator that someone posted here. It also allows me to display 4K 60 Hz SDR on the Shield, which otherwise doesn't seem possible.
> 
> I've found that most HDR/Dolby Vision appears too dark on this projector, but everything looks fantastic in SDR. In my experience, HDR looks worse than SDR unless you have an extremely capable TV, so I'm happy to watch everything in SDR.
> 
> Despite that compromise, I couldn't be more thrilled with this projector. The black levels, contrast, and color vibrancy are incredible. I also have an 83" A90J OLED (essentially the best TV that exists). Before I got the T1, I strongly preferred the OLED to my old Vava on a 120" screen. Now I prefer the projector (T1) for night time viewing.


So if one wants HDR10 viewing at least if not both HDR10/+ and DV then they should look for something (projector capable of HDR10) else?
Is Xiaomi C2 the same as T1 with HDR10 and DV content? And If C2 does have better HDR/DV then does T1 have Black levels, contrast and colors better enough than Xiaomi C2 to pass the HDR10/DV of C2?


----------



## lattiboy

Trebbs said:


> Sort of a general question: Are DLP/other projectors more prone to judder than other 60hz displays? Watching various RPTV/DLP/LCD sets over the years, I do notice things like an occasional janky pan, but have never really been bothered by it. Wondering due to all the talk about motion interpolation in this and the C2 thread.


People make a lot of hay about this, but as somebody who prefers films over gaming and streams I would say the T1 is every bit as good as my previous Vivitek HK2299, which was highly regarded for 24P content. There are a ton of pans in the movie I watched last night (Long Good Friday) and I did not once notice judder outside of the 24p blur that is standard in films. I do have to wonder if people who watch a lot of 60p stuff are more sensitive to it. In the same way I find all interpolation tech to be gross and fake.

I don’t use physical discs, but I do have very high bit rate Blu-ray rips for most my media and I never notice judder outside of scrolling text in 24p. That’s just me, but I tend to be highly sensitive to the standard visual issues people have with projectors like the screen door effect and speckle.


----------



## jeff9n

Ricoflashback said:


> I'm looking at a 110" to 120" max screen size. I don't know if I'll have any issues with this size or not. I'll also match it with a quality UST ALR screen. What type of screen do you have? For folks who watch mostly at night - - I don't think screen size will make as much difference but I'm sure there is a drop off in lumens the larger your screen is.


If you are seeking for the theater-like immersive viewing at night, the screen should be at least 150-inch. Don't worry about the drop in lumens because it is not noticeable, even on my 165-inch screen. The caveat is not being able to enjoy the projector during the day as it is not ALR screen


----------



## Brajesh

Agreed. I'm at 150" and tried 120" and it was very noticeable. If you have a well light-controlled room, go as big as possible !


----------



## lattiboy

This is not aimed at any particular user, but a thing I had in a draft from last night:

At a certain point people just need to decide what is important to them, read the reviews, and *pick*.

I feel like a lot of people expect every user and reviewer to be their *personal shopper*. I can’t make the decisions for anyone else, and I feel there has been *SO much feedback* on the T1 from owners and now Gregory that if you’re unable to chose it is a personal issue with commitment, not a lack of information.

You are not choosing a religion or a career, and if you are having a personal crisis about a $2500 projector, it is possible you should look at something less expensive. The Fengmi R1 is about 40% the cost of the T1 and looks to be great!

At this point, I feel like we should direct people with these questions to the numerous user reviews in this thread and Gregorys excellent review of the T1 when people ask for comparisons or the like.

Also, I now realize we don’t value or pay reviewers NEARLY enough. My god, look at Gregory’s comment section.


----------



## Ricoflashback

jakechoy said:


> Why? The nvidia can default to non HDR mode. Do it in the display settings. U can even set a default 4K 60hz non HDR/DV mode.


How? What is the setting? Do you pick the resolution? Or some other place? Everything I see says HDR ready. So my thought was to just have the EDID for my projector output only. I have another TV connected which is DV capable (Sony 900F) but I rarely watch it anymore.


----------



## manwithnoname

lattiboy said:


> This is not aimed at any particular user, but a thing I had in a draft from last night:
> 
> At a certain point people just need to decide what is important to them, read the reviews, and *pick*.
> 
> I feel like a lot of people expect every user and reviewer to be their *personal shopper*. I can’t make the decisions for anyone else, and I feel there has been *SO much feedback* on the T1 from owners and now Gregory that if you’re unable to chose it is a personal issue with commitment, not a lack of information.
> 
> You are not choosing a religion or a career, and if you are having a personal crisis about a $2500 projector, it is possible you should look at something less expensive. The Fengmi R1 is about 40% the cost of the T1 and looks to be great!
> 
> At this point, I feel like we should direct people with these questions to the numerous user reviews in this thread and Gregorys excellent review of the T1 when people ask for comparisons or the like.
> 
> Also, I now realize we don’t value or pay reviewers NEARLY enough. My god, look at Gregory’s comment section.


This feels aimed at me, and my response to the terrible Grogu photographs, and that’s fine, I can take it.

I have a perfectly fine 4k laser UST projector right now which at release when I bought it, cost more than twice what the T1 costs. I have fun replacing equipment regularly, as long as it is a step up, even if it’s miniscule. But if I decide to replace equipment, and after I’ve already put my money down, I receive some news that maybe it’s not as good as I thought, I wish I didn’t waste my time. Not money, time. There are always options to sell if you’re not happy with AVR equipment. Doesn’t mean I want to mistakenly buy something of worse quality and have to deal with selling it. I’d prefer not to waste time and energy.

I did exactly what you said, I read the 1600 posts/reviews, watched every youtube video, and made a final decision, based on my requirements of having an outstanding picture with deep level blacks (which are what I am missing from my current laser projector). However, I would not be willing to trade nice blacks for pink tones. And you're right, i made my decision, and it's on its way, but since I had already purchased at the time of seeing the bad photos, I was just less excited to play when it eventually arrives. 

It’s what I saw AFTER I made the decision that made me 2nd guess my purchase for a moment until you proved that what I might have been feeling was probably unwarranted. I thought it was great that you came out and gave more data showing that what I, and other were worried about was not a reality. 

This is a hobby, and exciting, and when something comes along diminishing that excitement, it doesn’t mean I’m just gonna put blinders on and say “Who cares?! I made my choice!”.

I’ve used your thoughts, feedback, and images as the biggest selling point for getting the T1, always getting excited when you posted new pix, because I knew you were taking care to adjust photos and give legit feedback good or bad. 

When I saw the terrible pictures of the Boba Fett episode and someone was PRAISING it for looking awesome, I started to think damn, is this what it really looks like? Have others have been manipulating their photos to make the projector look better?

Why is it bad if a purchasing decision is worrying to someone? In my case, it’s got nothing to do with being able to afford it, it’s got everything to do with being let down instead of excited. If I just ordered a car which claimed it had 50 MPG, and then a few days before I took delivery on it, people started posting pix of their dash showing that they were only getting 30MPG, it would bother me. I’d start to question, does the guy who is getting 30MPG have a really bad commute full of stop and go traffic? Is his just a lemon?, etc.

I’ve read every post here. Plenty of good reviews, some bad. Information has gone back and forth, with people contradicting what others say (especially in the red-push department). None of us know each other or our tolerance for bad products, so it’s always a gamble. I’ve been buying home theater equipment for 30+ years and appreciate real world reviews. But I also know there are people who buy 70” off-brand LCD TV’s and think they have an awesome TV because it’s SO BIG!, yet if anyone on these forums saw that TV in person, they would scoff and laugh at how bad the PQ was.

I truly appreciate everything you have shared here, because it pushed me to try something fun and new. However, and 

I also like to see multiple people’s points of view on the equipment, and when someone shows unflattering sides of the product, the fun is diminished. A single bad review can cause some people to stray away from a product, regardless of cost. I was going to buy the latest JVC and saw this projector or the PX1-Pro an an easy way to have fun with a new toy that might get me 90% of the way there, but when the toy seems like it may arrive broken out of the box, that fun is diminished. That’s all. In my case, there’s nothing life-altering about this decision. I appreciate everyone’s time here, good and bad, and hope that this projector is as fantastic as I hoped.


----------



## driege

Ricoflashback said:


> Yes, I think you’re right. My mistake. I think I might try it. It sounds like a nice solution. I’m fine with SDR on a projector as well. I think I can connect it to the output from my AVR going to my projector, correct? Or, from my NVidia Shield Pro to my AVR? That will simplify everything for me. Trying to chase HDR/DV picture quality on a projector is a rathole as far as I’m concerned.


Yeah I assume that will work


----------



## driege

lattiboy said:


> Thanks for this. I sometimes worried I was being hyperbolic about how good the T1 looked as my only other display is an older Sony X900E, and my only exposure to higher end TV models was Best Buy or Video Only for brief periods. Having somebody who owns essentially the best TV on the planet say a T1 is in its league is a bigger deal to me than dozens of reviews or conjecture.


Yes it's really good, but to be clear the A90J has better picture quality if you were to take the screen size out of it. But the T1 has a big screen size advantage and I think the colors are a little more vibrant. The A90J wins on contrast, accuracy, brightness, and motion.


----------



## driege

jakechoy said:


> Why? The nvidia can default to non HDR mode. Do it in the display settings. U can even set a default 4K 60hz non HDR/DV mode.


There are a bunch of things that look like they would achieve this in the shield settings but none of them actually work. Here's confirmation that the feature to disable HDR does not exist: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/forums/shield-tv/9/454275/forcing-hdr-sdr-conversion/


----------



## lattiboy

driege said:


> Yes it's really good, but to be clear the A90J has better picture quality if you were to take the screen size out of it. But the T1 has a big screen size advantage and I think the colors are a little more vibrant. The A90J wins on contrast, accuracy, brightness, and motion.


For sure, I believe almost any OLED is going to best the T1 in many aspects of PQ. I meant more that somebody used to the type or picture the Sony Master stuff puts out finds the T1 to be in that league of that display device, understanding it’s a projector and inherently can’t compete on brightness or contrast.

I do think it’s color fidelity might be as good as human eyes can see. The other tri lasers have the gamut, but not the contrast that the T1 has which I think ads a dimensional aspect tough to measure or capture in a photo.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

driege said:


> I've solved this problem by getting this EDID emulator that someone posted here. It also allows me to display 4K 60 Hz SDR on the Shield, which otherwise doesn't seem possible.
> 
> I've found that most HDR/Dolby Vision appears too dark on this projector, but everything looks fantastic in SDR. In my experience, HDR looks worse than SDR unless you have an extremely capable TV, so I'm happy to watch everything in SDR.
> 
> Despite that compromise, I couldn't be more thrilled with this projector. The black levels, contrast, and color vibrancy are incredible. I also have an 83" A90J OLED (essentially the best TV that exists). Before I got the T1, I strongly preferred the OLED to my old Vava on a 120" screen. Now I prefer the projector (T1) for night time viewing.


I have debated this, but I do enjoy DV quite a bit.
The stuff on Netflix looks better in DV than SDR to me.

I used the brightness/contrast tweak today to fix some of the dark in HDR, it helps a lot but doesnt solve it completly, and it means I hve to change view modes when I go back to SDR as it will blow out SDR highlights.

If the EDID emulator is not good enough but you want to go that route the HDFury devices might be your cup o' tea.
It should support all the 4K, refresh rate, etc it will handle HDCP, and you wont lose HDR and DV as options it will do some of its own internal tone mapping that is supposed to be pretty good.

The thing is a configurable device, you pick the EDID you want so you can tell the player its a HDR/DV device, and you tell it what your source device is so it can try to "map" the parameters.

I for one am happy enough with the T1 as is to not make this purchase yet, but it might be something I do down the road. Right now having too much "fun" playing with MSO and tuning/tweaking my subs, and playing with DIRAC on my AVR.


----------



## lattiboy

Well, got a response to my Facebook inquiry. Seems promising, but time will tell:


----------



## driege

ViciousXUSMC said:


> If the EDID emulator is not good enough but you want to go that route the HDFury devices might be your cup o' tea.
> It should support all the 4K, refresh rate, etc it will handle HDCP, and you wont lose HDR and DV as options it will do some of its own internal tone mapping that is supposed to be pretty good.
> 
> The thing is a configurable device, you pick the EDID you want so you can tell the player its a HDR/DV device, and you tell it what your source device is so it can try to "map" the parameters.


What's the entry level price for one of the devices that would do this tone mapping? I saw people referencing $7k devices which seems nuts. Is there a cheaper alternative?


----------



## Ricoflashback

ViciousXUSMC said:


> I have debated this, but I do enjoy DV quite a bit.
> The stuff on Netflix looks better in DV than SDR to me.
> 
> I used the brightness/contrast tweak today to fix some of the dark in HDR, it helps a lot but doesnt solve it completly, and it means I hve to change view modes when I go back to SDR as it will blow out SDR highlights.
> 
> If the EDID emulator is not good enough but you want to go that route the HDFury devices might be your cup o' tea.
> It should support all the 4K, refresh rate, etc it will handle HDCP, and you wont lose HDR and DV as options it will do some of its own internal tone mapping that is supposed to be pretty good.
> 
> The thing is a configurable device, you pick the EDID you want so you can tell the player its a HDR/DV device, and you tell it what your source device is so it can try to "map" the parameters.
> 
> I for one am happy enough with the T1 as is to not make this purchase yet, but it might be something I do down the road. Right now having too much "fun" playing with MSO and tuning/tweaking my subs, and playing with DIRAC on my AVR.


Remember - the HDFury PC solution only works for discs. Not streaming.


----------



## jeff9n

Here is screen capture from Mulan on the Silver Ticket 150-in screen (Grey) with T1 and Roku Streaming Stick 4K (2021 model) with Dolby Vision










Here is the screen capture on the Silver Ticket 165-in (White Matte) with the original Xiaomi 4K and Roku Streaming Stick (2019 model). Both devices do not support Dolby Vision.


----------



## Ricoflashback

driege said:


> What's the entry level price for one of the devices that would do this tone mapping? I saw people referencing $7k devices which seems nuts. Is there a cheaper alternative?


Unfortunately, not at this time. The Lumagen or the even more expensive madVR Envy Pro is all I’m aware of. I’ve wondered why the Chinese or Japanese haven‘t pursued a $2K to $3K tone mapping processor as it‘s sorely needed in the marketplace. The JVC NX5 is the closest you can get, price wise, to the black levels and Dynamic Tone Mapping on a frame by frame basis. But that’s a regular throw PJ that needs a bat cave environment and is more than twice the cost of the Fengmi T1.


----------



## Ricoflashback

jeff9n said:


> Here is screen capture from Mulan on the Silver Ticket 150-in screen (Grey) with T1 and Roku Streaming Stick 4K (2021 model) with Dolby Vision
> 
> View attachment 3237200
> 
> 
> Here is the screen capture on the Silver Ticket 165-in (White Matte) with the original Xiaomi 4K and Roku Streaming Stick (2019 model). Both devices do not support Dolby Vision.
> View attachment 3237202


Is that a scope screen?


----------



## mirkmito

Hi Mirko, sorry for the late reply and for the inconvenience caused. We have communicated with the product department about your questions:


> 1. The hdr10 + is not supported, while at the launch of the product it was reported.


 Formovie T1 does not support HDR10+. T1 is currently only released and promoted in China, and the official product introduction does not indicate that the product supports HDR10+. It may be due to the fact that some media have obtained wrong information during the information transmission process, causing you to misunderstand. If we find such wrong information, we will also try to contact the publisher to make corrections. Later, when we release the global version, we will send the correct message to promote it. Sorry for this misunderstanding.


> 2. When playing Dolby Vison content from Blu-ray (eg Top Gun, Joker, etc ..) the lack of MEMC for DV (24p UHD Blu-ray) makes viewing very bad.


 This is due to Dolby Vision requirements. Because Dolby Vision purpose is to restore the original appearance of the film, external processing such as MEMC requires to be turned off.

Hope the above information is helpful for you. And if you have any other questions, contact me anytime or send email to [email protected].


----------



## abaintor

mirkmito said:


> This is due to Dolby Vision requirements. Because Dolby Vision purpose is to restore the original appearance of the film, external processing such as MEMC requires to be turned off.
> 
> Hope the above information is helpful for you. And if you have any other questions, contact me anytime or send email to [email protected].


This is nonsense, ALL dolby vision TVs allow to enable MEMC, why not projectors ?
It seems though that this is just a matter of user settings and not a hardware limitation.
I think they just should let the end user choose what he prefers to enable or not, including the color settings (which are also settable in dolby vision on LCD/OLED TVs)


----------



## Malaveae

lattiboy said:


> Just got my response too. Hopefully they actually do something. Here’s my whole email and their response:
> 
> View attachment 3236844
> 
> View attachment 3236845
> 
> 
> View attachment 3236846


It shall be only a matter of time for Fengmi to solved any DV issues. They are the same company that delivers the Xiaomi C2.
They are listed in Dolby Vision page: Licensed Manufactures - Dolby Professional
And this company was founded only to built laser projectors (no TVs like other brands CHIQ B5U case which was offering DV and then they took it off). 
We shall communicate ([email protected]) any findings regarding DV (color accuracy, tone mapping, reddish pictures, low brightness, etc). 
@lattiboy Thanks for your feedback.


----------



## Adamgoodapp

I got a response too. Seems like they are willing to send a beta firmware?


Dear Sir,


Sorry for the bad experience！
In order to better solve the red issue on some content in Dolby Vision, it will be helpful if you answer these few questions.
1.Do you watch Dolby Vision online or through an external device such as HDMI cable ? 
2.What is the current software version of your projector?
3.Please provide us with the SN code at the bottom of your projector, and we will send you a beta version.
And we are sending you a Dolby video in the attachment to test whether the problem you described above will recur.
As for the problem of no MEMC on Dolby Vision, it's because Dolby is committed to the pursuit of the most authentic presentation, 
so you can directly see what the director sees. Therefore, the Dolby documentation clearly specifies that MEMC is turned off.


----------



## GaeIta80

I got in touch and they also replied saying a new firmware update is on its way to fix "mostly reported issues" so far. So, fingers crossed...if they get this right, it will be close to perfection 🥰 (and already a little jewel)


----------



## Tanizhq

Adamgoodapp said:


> I got a response too. Seems like they are willing to send a beta firmware?
> 
> 
> Dear Sir,
> 
> 
> Sorry for the bad experience！
> In order to better solve the red issue on some content in Dolby Vision, it will be helpful if you answer these few questions.
> 1.Do you watch Dolby Vision online or through an external device such as HDMI cable ?
> 2.What is the current software version of your projector?
> 3.Please provide us with the SN code at the bottom of your projector, and we will send you a beta version.
> And we are sending you a Dolby video in the attachment to test whether the problem you described above will recur.
> As for the problem of no MEMC on Dolby Vision, it's because Dolby is committed to the pursuit of the most authentic presentation,
> so you can directly see what the director sees. Therefore, the Dolby documentation clearly specifies that MEMC is turned off.


I got this reply too, wondering if someone can try a Beta version of whatever they provide and see if that’s any better?


----------



## GaeIta80

Tanizhq said:


> I got this reply too, wondering if someone can try a Beta version of whatever they provide and see if that’s any better?


Smart move yep


----------



## Tanizhq

I would try it but I actually sent the email preemptively, my T1 is expected to arrive on the 11th lol


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Ricoflashback said:


> Remember - the HDFury PC solution only works for discs. Not streaming.


This is a display level injection, I am not sure how the source could matter at all.


----------



## Ricoflashback

ViciousXUSMC said:


> This is a display level injection, I am not sure how the source could matter at all.


It does. Repeat - no HD Fury PC solution for streaming content.


----------



## GaeIta80

Ok so...chatting with Eric at Nothingbutlabel and he confirmed Fengmi is working on a 2.0 OTA firmware that is going to fix the DV pink tint and optimise colour accuracy. ETA not released yet...


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

For those brave enough to try the Beta firmware, interested in seeing the results.
After the Nvidia Shield update fiasco and a recent issue with updating my NAS and Firewall I am going to sit tight for a bit lol.


----------



## Ricoflashback

driege said:


> Yeah I assume that will work


What about Dolby Atmos via DD+? The specs say 2.1. Do I lose Dolby Atmos audio with this EDID device?

P.S. - I cancelled my order from Amazon as it says they don't even have 5.1 audio. So, for my PJ, this won't work. I'll see if there are any other Nvidia Shield Pro workarounds.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Brajesh said:


> Agreed. I'm at 150" and tried 120" and it was very noticeable. If you have a well light-controlled room, go as big as possible !


Ah, 150" is too small. It's 200" or more, or bust. Just kidding. This will be in a living room and most likely, I won't have room for a 150" screen. I'll go as big as I can. I can tell you that right now at 10 feet away with a 100" screen, I enjoy my projector screen immensely. And - - I'll need a specific UST ALR screen like a Grandview Dynamique, AKIA CLR4 or SilverTicket when I acquire the Fengmi T1.


----------



## pionoor

abaintor said:


> This is nonsense, ALL dolby vision TVs allow to enable MEMC, why not projectors ?
> It seems though that this is just a matter of user settings and not a hardware limitation.
> I think they just should let the end user choose what he prefers to enable or not, including the color settings (which are also settable in dolby vision on LCD/OLED TVs)


Can we email them telling them that DV enabled TV with MEMC do exists, and providing some evidence?


----------



## Ricoflashback

pionoor said:


> Can we email them telling them that DV enabled TV with MEMC do exists, and providing some evidence?


It could be the way Xiaomi/Fengmi/Appotronics is implementing their MEMC with DV on their projectors. But I agree - - there should be a better solution.


----------



## whiskthecat

Have any of these Fengmi responses commented on if they will address HDMI connectivity issues? I don't care about DV or lack of CMS but I'll be damned if I am expected to fiddle around in menus for over a minute every time I turn the projector on just to get HDMI to sync up...


----------



## jeff9n

Ricoflashback said:


> Is that a scope screen?


That is the electric roll down screen flush mounted to the ceiling.


----------



## Ricoflashback

jeff9n said:


> That is the electric roll down screen flush mounted to the ceiling.


Much thanks. It looks like you are in a bat cave like environment with total control of any ambient light.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Ricoflashback said:


> What about Dolby Atmos via DD+? The specs say 2.1. Do I lose Dolby Atmos audio with this EDID device?
> 
> P.S. - I cancelled my order from Amazon as it says they don't even have 5.1 audio. So, for my PJ, this won't work. I'll see if there are any other Nvidia Shield Pro workarounds.


If you dont want HDR or DV at all there has always been the option to go into the Shield display settings and set it to a REC709 mode 8bit and it wont play HDR or DV it will play SDR.

And there are HDR only modes without DV if you only do not want DV, further there is a toggle switch for DV that I assume turns of DV even if you have a DV display mode in use.

The one and only time I tried to use a 8bit mode my screen went black and didn't come back, but that was probably a fluke as I know others have done it.


----------



## Titi_78

mirkmito said:


> Hi Mirko, sorry for the late reply and for the inconvenience caused. We have communicated with the product department about your questions:
> 
> Formovie T1 does not support HDR10+. T1 is currently only released and promoted in China, and the official product introduction does not indicate that the product supports HDR10+. It may be due to the fact that some media have obtained wrong information during the information transmission process, causing you to misunderstand. If we find such wrong information, we will also try to contact the publisher to make corrections. Later, when we release the global version, we will send the correct message to promote it. Sorry for this misunderstanding.
> 
> This is due to Dolby Vision requirements. Because Dolby Vision purpose is to restore the original appearance of the film, external processing such as MEMC requires to be turned off.
> 
> Hope the above information is helpful for you. And if you have any other questions, contact me anytime or send email to [email protected].


My bad if i not read corectly the formovie web site on the T1 page, scroll down and see hdr10, hdr10+,dv 
峰米科技


----------



## Ricoflashback

ViciousXUSMC said:


> If you dont want HDR or DV at all there has always been the option to go into the Shield display settings and set it to a REC709 mode 8bit and it wont play HDR or DV it will play SDR.
> 
> And there are HDR only modes without DV if you only do not want DV, further there is a toggle switch for DV that I assume turns of DV even if you have a DV display mode in use.
> 
> The one and only time I tried to use a 8bit mode my screen went black and didn't come back, but that was probably a fluke as I know others have done it.


They never make it easy. I'd like a toggle for HDR & DV off and straight SDR. It must be more difficult that it sounds as the Nvidia Shield Pro really doesn't have that option nor does the Fegmi T1 and a lot of other projectors. When DV first came out (and somewhat still) the picture on my Sony 900F was way too dark. For Amazon Prime, they had the option to go to a 1080p version versus 4K/HDR and then my Sony TV upscaled to 4K. That looked a lot better than DV itself.


----------



## Titi_78

Anybody know
How Can i reduce speackle on 1080 sdr from my TV box (Freebox french provider)
specialy red and orange ?

Envoyé de mon 2107113SG en utilisant Tapatalk


----------



## lattiboy

mirkmito said:


> Hi Mirko, sorry for the late reply and for the inconvenience caused. We have communicated with the product department about your questions:
> 
> Formovie T1 does not support HDR10+. T1 is currently only released and promoted in China, and the official product introduction does not indicate that the product supports HDR10+. It may be due to the fact that some media have obtained wrong information during the information transmission process, causing you to misunderstand. If we find such wrong information, we will also try to contact the publisher to make corrections. Later, when we release the global version, we will send the correct message to promote it. Sorry for this misunderstanding.


You should talk to your own marketing team, as it shows up on your webpage:


----------



## Brajesh

They go beyond that on their website & call out supporting all 3 HDR formats:









Don't see why they don't just add HDR10+ support via firmware?! The hardware is there, and unlike DV, don't think 10+ has any royalties involved.


----------



## eezrider

jeff9n said:


> Here is screen capture from Mulan on the Silver Ticket 150-in screen (Grey) with T1 and Roku Streaming Stick 4K (2021 model) with Dolby Vision
> 
> View attachment 3237200
> 
> 
> Here is the screen capture on the Silver Ticket 165-in (White Matte) with the original Xiaomi 4K and Roku Streaming Stick (2019 model). Both devices do not support Dolby Vision.
> View attachment 3237202


Wow, big difference. What brightness and DV modes were used on the T1 ? I'll try this on my T1 and my LG OLED, which I think of as my DV reference.


----------



## CabbageMan

Here is the response I just received from some questions I asked about a week ago. A lot of the same responses you guys have been receiving but that last answer doesn't sound promising. I will ask for clarification on that in hopes that the current version of the T1 will also be updated to have the "more comprehensive advanced settings". I will also ask for a timeline on the update that will address the red tint.


----------



## Ricoflashback

CabbageMan said:


> Here is the response I just received from some questions I asked about a week ago. A lot of the same responses you guys have been receiving but that last answer doesn't sound promising. I will ask for clarification on that in hopes that the current version of the T1 will also be updated to have the "more comprehensive advanced settings". I will also ask for a timeline on the update that will address the red tint.
> View attachment 3237519


OK - how do you get the overseas version?


----------



## GaeIta80

Ricoflashback said:


> OK - how do you get the overseas version?


I guess they are referring to the intl version supposed to be released in April/May


----------



## Ricoflashback

GaeIta80 said:


> I guess they are referring to the intl version supposed to be released in April/May


I thought Spocky or someone else said the international version wouldn't be as robust as the current Fengmi T1? You would think that they'd update the current model with the firmware improvements. I'm not sure a "buy the new model" to solve your current problems works as a marketing strategy.


----------



## humax

CabbageMan said:


> Here is the response I just received from some questions I asked about a week ago. A lot of the same responses you guys have been receiving but that last answer doesn't sound promising. I will ask for clarification on that in hopes that the current version of the T1 will also be updated to have the "more comprehensive advanced settings". I will also ask for a timeline on the update that will address the red tint.
> View attachment 3237519



In their last answer, they seem to indicate more image settings with the global version. It is clear this unit needs at least a rudimentary CMS. I don't know if anyone from Fengmi is reading this, but gamma presets would also be nice. I will see what the global version brings to the table or wait for a Xiaomi version, if the immature software bugs have not been addressed. ALPD projectors have been lacking a full CMS for the past five years, which results in inaccurate colors. It is time they changed that and upped their game. An owners' group petition to Fengmi may help push them in this direction.


----------



## Brajesh

Ricoflashback said:


> I thought Spocky or someone else said the international version wouldn't be as robust as the current Fengmi T1? You would think that they'd update the current model with the firmware improvements. I'm not sure a "buy the new model" to solve your current problems works as a marketing strategy.


It has been the case until now, with either 3D support missing or something else. But, the Int'l versions have had proper Android TV vs FengOS or MiUI, but w/o Widevine L1 (necessary for Netflix 4K, other premium content in 1080p/4K). Maybe the Int'l version of T1 will retain the same functionality but w/Android TV & addt'l settings options (one can hope).


----------



## jeff9n

My previous Mulan photo file was compressed. Here is the actual size







that


----------



## zaselim

Ricoflashback said:


> I thought Spocky or someone else said the international version wouldn't be as robust as the current Fengmi T1? You would think that they'd update the current model with the firmware improvements. I'm not sure a "buy the new model" to solve your current problems works as a marketing strategy.


Wait, you think they will release the international/global model with the updated firmware with the issues fixed (and more added settings) and will not release the update for the current(Chinese) model?


----------



## blazed

lattiboy said:


> You should talk to your own marketing team, as it shows up on your webpage:
> 
> View attachment 3237400


A lot of Chinese companies tend to do that, well at least in my experience.


----------



## Ricoflashback

zaselim said:


> Wait, you think they will release the international/global model with the updated firmware with the issues fixed (and more added settings) and will not release the update for the current(Chinese) model?


I hope not. I don‘t know Xiaom’s/Fengmi’s track record on firmware updates. But I find it odd that stated fixes are in place for the new international release without mention of a timeline for a Fengmi T1 fix. Could the issues be hardware as well as software related? We‘ll find out.


----------



## eezrider

jeff9n said:


> My previous Mulan photo file was compressed. Here is the actual size
> View attachment 3237613
> that


What are your thoughts about the color difference between this and the other projector? Which is the more accurate? T1 is much redder. Did you color correct the photo so it looks like what you see? Tri laser projectors often fool the camera sensor, apparently because the green laser clips before the red and blue.


----------



## ngcoolman

Brajesh said:


> They go beyond that on their website & call out supporting all 3 HDR formats:
> View attachment 3237412
> 
> 
> Don't see why they don't just add HDR10+ support via firmware?! The hardware is there, and unlike DV, don't think 10+ has any royalties involved.


I would say lack of access to hdr10+ and dv content could be a problem to their engineers. Many streaming services are not available in China. UHD disc is not common. Only one major streaming services in China, I.e. tencent video, support DV. I am not even aware of any viable way to acces hdr10+ content in China. Of course, with xiaomi having a more global presence, they can use vpn to access foreign content or even have setup r&d team outside china to help mitigate the issue.


----------



## spocky12

Ricoflashback said:


> I hope not. I don‘t know Xiaom’s/Fengmi’s track record on firmware updates. But I find it odd that stated fixes are in place for the new international release without mention of a timeline for a Fengmi T1 fix. Could the issues be hardware as well as software related? We‘ll find out.


From my experience and what I understood of their answer, the next firmware will fix most of the reported issues (probably red tint and HDMI handshakes) but they don't plan on adding a full CMS or change the memc on DV.

Concerning the international models, they usually don't offer as many settings as the Chinese devices. Maybe this won't be the case this time ?


----------



## lattiboy

spocky12 said:


> From my experience and what I understood of their answer, the next firmware will fix most of the reported issues (probably red tint and HDMI handshakes) but they don't plan on adding a full CMS or change the memc on DV.
> 
> Concerning the international models, they usually don't offer as many settings as the Chinese devices. Maybe this won't be the case this time ?


I get the feeling they actually know they made perhaps the best PJ on earth and plan on really pushing for international markets on this one. Just a guess, but the anticipation and chatter and feedback are unlike any previous Chinese models I’m aware of.

If they fix DV and HDMI I’ll be fine. Would be really happy with auto input and auto HDR custom setting.


----------



## jeff9n

eezrider said:


> What are your thoughts about the color difference between this and the other projector? Which is the more accurate? T1 is much redder. Did you color correct the photo so it looks like what you see? Tri laser projectors often fool the camera sensor, apparently because the green laser clips before the red and blue.


If we talk about real life color accuracy, T1 is a bit over the top. But it looks so damm good. Ultimately, it comes down to personal preference. For myself, I love the extra color pops that T1 delivers. At the same time, I still enjoy the natural colors from my older Xiaomi projector.


----------



## lattiboy

I am increasingly convinced that the Dolby Vision issues are HDMI related, not any kind of color tuning. I have been downloading clips to play directly through the Fengmi media player via the USB port on the T1. They all looked excellent with no red skin issues.

4K HDR 









Dolby Vision










If anybody has another media player that can play native DV and wants to compare the T1 player to it, that’d be great! The Ziddo or a Shield Pro should work. Roku Ultra won’t do it via usb.


----------



## jeff9n

I also played that clip on the T1 built in media player












lattiboy said:


> I am increasingly convinced that the Dolby Vision issues are HDMI related, not any kind of color tuning. I have been downloading clips to play directly through the Fengmi media player via the USB port on the T1. They all looked excellent with no red skin issues.
> 
> 4K HDR
> View attachment 3237703
> 
> 
> Dolby Vision
> View attachment 3237704
> 
> 
> 
> If anybody has another media player that can play native DV and wants to compare the T1 player to it, that’d be great! The Ziddo or a Shield Pro should work. Roku Ultra won’t do it via usb.


----------



## lattiboy

jeff9n said:


> I also played that clip on the T1 built in media player
> 
> View attachment 3237771


I was using view mode/dark, are you using a higher gain screen? Yours looks incredibly bright.


----------



## Malaveae

Hi T1 owners, 
a list of production to start testing this projectors color gamut capabilities.
The first six on the list are above 153% DCI-P3 which enters into the BT2020 zone.

Source:
So, There's no Colour Content above P3 Gamut, is There? (Part 2)


----------



## jeff9n

lattiboy said:


> I was using view mode/dark, are you using a higher gain screen? Yours looks incredibly bright.


I used the default setting right out of the box on a 1.1 white matte screen.


----------



## lattiboy

jeff9n said:


> I used the default setting right out of the box on a 1.1 white matte screen.


Ah, ok, I have a .6 so that makes sense. I’d recommend view mode for brightness and dark for Dolby mode. Looks great on that screen!


----------



## lattiboy

Okay, I think Encanto might need to be a new reference film for color. My lord it is beautiful in DV on Disney+. It gotta be in that 100% or more DCI-P3. Colors can’t really be captured with an iPhone but I did my best


----------



## ngcoolman

lattiboy said:


> Okay, I think Encanto might need to be a new reference film for color. My lord it is beautiful in DV on Disney+. It gotta be in that 100% or more DCI-P3. Colors can’t really be captured with an iPhone but I did my best
> 
> View attachment 3237795
> 
> View attachment 3237796
> 
> View attachment 3237794


The color is indeed amazing in this movie. On the other hand, I do think this movie also shows the red tint issue more than other movies. For example, in your 2nd picture, the little girl at the bottom right, her face and hair have a bit of the pink tone which I found it a bit unnatural. In the 3rd picture, the cloud also have some red/pink tone on it which I believe should be gray naturally. But even with those minor issues, my friends still found the movie absolutely gorgeous with T1.


----------



## indieke2

For me colors look not natural and too strong. Saw this on a Fengmi C 2, was way better.


----------



## GaeIta80

lattiboy said:


> Okay, I think Encanto might need to be a new reference film for color. My lord it is beautiful in DV on Disney+. It gotta be in that 100% or more DCI-P3. Colors can’t really be captured with an iPhone but I did my best
> 
> View attachment 3237795
> 
> View attachment 3237796
> 
> View attachment 3237794


Maybe Office/Dark mode is better? Did you colour correct the pictures? They look way too saturated 🙂


----------



## driege

Ricoflashback said:


> What about Dolby Atmos via DD+? The specs say 2.1. Do I lose Dolby Atmos audio with this EDID device?
> 
> P.S. - I cancelled my order from Amazon as it says they don't even have 5.1 audio. So, for my PJ, this won't work. I'll see if there are any other Nvidia Shield Pro workarounds.


Ah bummer. I'm notsure that the lack of 5.1 audio is true. I don't have other speakers set up right now but Netflix and other apps still allow the 5.1 option and the shield settings still allow me to choose any audio format.

But I don't have a receiver set up so I can't actually test whether 5.1 is being transmitted. It's possible the shield doesn't really care about the EDID for audio, while for video it limits your video output options based on the EDID.


----------



## CabbageMan

lattiboy said:


> Okay, I think Encanto might need to be a new reference film for color. My lord it is beautiful in DV on Disney+. It gotta be in that 100% or more DCI-P3. Colors can’t really be captured with an iPhone but I did my best
> 
> View attachment 3237795
> 
> View attachment 3237796
> 
> View attachment 3237794


Encanto was the first movie my wife and I watched when the projector came. It truly is a beautiful film.


----------



## wltam

lattiboy said:


> You should talk to your own marketing team, as it shows up on your webpage:
> 
> View attachment 3237400


I was thinking the same! @mirkmito: Can you perhaps share what you have heard in case you have spoken to their customer service?


----------



## mirkmito

wltam said:


> I was thinking the same! @mirkmito: Can you perhaps share what you have heard in case you have spoken to their customer service?


Hi @wltam 

Yes, I wrote to him today, in these days I have not been able to answer.

Yes, I saw that Formovie.cn is present and I have attached screenshots of the page.

I solicited the introduction of MEMC for DV ... Personally looking at BDs it is essential not to have stuttering.
The MEMC (MotionFlow on Sony) is present on televisions even when watching DV content, and certainly does not ruin the artistic quality of the product, rather it worsens it on the vpr, having a fixed refresh rate of 60hz.

I share the answer as soon as I have news


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

I guess overall I got lucky since I turn MEMC off I do not miss it in DV, and I saw how MEMC was wreaking havoc on the Vava Chroma for users and they have the opposite issue, they cant turn it off.

I would not mind a few more custom profiles, but currently I use the one to boost brightness up a bit in HDR, and the default ones work fine for standard content for me.

Autoboot to HDMI is working find for me, and I was able to automate the projector on/off features without issue.

I got focus pretty darn good, fan noise is good, brightness is good, colors are good, the unit looks good, it checked all the boxes for me.
Looking forward to seeing how it can be better, but happy with it as is for sure.

I think they need to "crush" the tone mapping for HDR and possibly DV as the PJ is not capable of truly displaying the full range and thats why we run into issues with HDR and less so but also in DV.
If you have a movie with dark darks, and bright brights, you will find that you cant bring out the detail in both so boosting the contrast and brightness to fix the dark will overexpose the highlights.

Or perhaps it is, and they just need to work on that tone mapping more, because the other night forgot what I was watching but the blacks were perfectly black and some highlights such as bright lights in the movie were so bright that it actually gave me vision issues like I stared at a lightbulb.

So if it can get bright enough that I woudln't want it any more bright, and dark enough that the blacks look totally black, now they just need to get the content to display properly.

My only regret is backing the Vava Chroma and not knowing about the T1 sooner


----------



## Ricoflashback

driege said:


> Ah bummer. I'm notsure that the lack of 5.1 audio is true. I don't have other speakers set up right now but Netflix and other apps still allow the 5.1 option and the shield settings still allow me to choose any audio format.
> 
> But I don't have a receiver set up so I can't actually test whether 5.1 is being transmitted. It's possible the shield doesn't really care about the EDID for audio, while for video it limits your video output options based on the EDID.


I looked up in the Q&A section on Amazon Prime and they confirmed only 2.1 and that they are working on 5.1. I have a 9.1.4 Dolby Atmos setup (wide surrounds) and thus not a solution for me. Thanks.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Ricoflashback said:


> They never make it easy. I'd like a toggle for HDR & DV off and straight SDR. It must be more difficult that it sounds as the Nvidia Shield Pro really doesn't have that option nor does the Fegmi T1 and a lot of other projectors. When DV first came out (and somewhat still) the picture on my Sony 900F was way too dark. For Amazon Prime, they had the option to go to a 1080p version versus 4K/HDR and then my Sony TV upscaled to 4K. That looked a lot better than DV itself.


I prefer HDR 98% of the time, but just turn on HDMI 1.4 on your T1 and you'll only be able to get SDR at 30p.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Casey_Bryson said:


> I prefer HDR 98% of the time, but just turn on HDMI 1.4 on your T1 and you'll only be able to get SDR at 30p.


I don't have the T1 just yet as I'll be looking to buy it when we move in June or July, 2022. Perhaps the international version will be out by then and I can compare the two. But the problem is the same with my existing projector and Nvidia Shield Pro. Namely - - how to toggle off HDR or DV without any adverse effects. If the content had an option for 1080P without any other degradation - - that would be optimal. Again, that's what I did with my Sony 900F LCD TV that had terribly dark DV content and especially with Amazon Prime. Bosch is a prime example. No pun intended. I switched to the 1080P version as my upscaled picture looked much better than the dark, HDR version. Then again, if it's not on the majority of content with HDR/DV - - I'll live with the exception and not the norm.

Honestly - - I have no hopes for projector manufacturers outside of JVC to provide quality Dynamic Tone Mapping, frame by frame. The madVR Envy Pro would be my choice as a processor but it's too expensive and the cure is worse than the disease. Someone needs to come out with a $2K video processor to handle HDR & DV content. A set it and forget it solution like the madVR Envy Pro at a much reduced cost. And not the madVR PC solution as that only works with discs (not streaming material.) It is what it is.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Ricoflashback said:


> I don't have the T1 just yet as I'll be looking to buy it when we move in June or July, 2022. Perhaps the international version will be out by then and I can compare the two. But the problem is the same with my existing projector and Nvidia Shield Pro. Namely - - how to toggle off HDR or DV without any adverse effects. If the content had an option for 1080P without any other degradation - - that would be optimal. Again, that's what I did with my Sony 900F LCD TV that had terribly dark DV content and especially with Amazon Prime. Bosch is a prime example. No pun intended. I switched to the 1080P version as my upscaled picture looked much better than the dark, HDR version. Then again, if it's not on the majority of content with HDR/DV - - I'll live with the exception and not the norm.
> 
> Honestly - - I have no hopes for projector manufacturers outside of JVC to provide quality Dynamic Tone Mapping, frame by frame. The madVR Envy Pro would be my choice as a processor but it's too expensive and the cure is worse than the disease. Someone needs to come out with a $2K video processor to handle HDR & DV content. A set it and forget it solution like the madVR Envy Pro at a much reduced cost. And not the madVR PC solution as that only works with discs (not streaming material.) It is what it is.


Almost everything worth watching is available as an MKV and for that MadVR on PC is the best solution and also the most cost effective, but I get it, not everyone wants to tinker to get the best, hence the expense of the Lumagen and MadVR Envy.

I think of it were possible around $2k HDFury would be the one's to bring it market, but it hasn't happened and I have my doubts that it is even possible. Madshi is still perfecting MadVR and has had loads of beta testers for several years. JVC only includes it because they have high end projectors and can offset the cost. Sony doesn't have one on their high end projectors ( their "solution" has been a debate and under intense scrutiny here)

Maybe we'll see it, maybe we won't, but right now LLDV via HDfury and DTM via MadVR for PC are the best and most cost effective solutions.


----------



## mayaCH

Ricoflashback said:


> I don't have the T1 just yet as I'll be looking to buy it when we move in June or July, 2022. Perhaps the international version will be out by then and I can compare the two. But the problem is the same with my existing projector and Nvidia Shield Pro. Namely - - how to toggle off HDR or DV without any adverse effects. If the content had an option for 1080P without any other degradation - - that would be optimal. Again, that's what I did with my Sony 900F LCD TV that had terribly dark DV content and especially with Amazon Prime. Bosch is a prime example. No pun intended. I switched to the 1080P version as my upscaled picture looked much better than the dark, HDR version. Then again, if it's not on the majority of content with HDR/DV - - I'll live with the exception and not the norm.
> 
> Honestly - - I have no hopes for projector manufacturers outside of JVC to provide quality Dynamic Tone Mapping, frame by frame. The madVR Envy Pro would be my choice as a processor but it's too expensive and the cure is worse than the disease. Someone needs to come out with a $2K video processor to handle HDR & DV content. A set it and forget it solution like the madVR Envy Pro at a much reduced cost. And not the madVR PC solution as that only works with discs (not streaming material.) It is what it is.


in the Android settings menu, system, display settings, advanced display settings... you can set a profile together and enable it as default.
i can provide you some screenshot of the settings later, when at home

for those with older yamaha rx-a series receivers (from 2016++, so xx60 models and above), found a video how to enable the hdmi 4k 60hz dv 



maybe this is in some way applicable to rx-v series too.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Casey_Bryson said:


> Almost everything worth watching is available as an MKV and for that MadVR on PC is the best solution and also the most cost effective, but I get it, not everyone wants to tinker to get the best, hence the expense of the Lumagen and MadVR Envy.
> 
> I think of it were possible around $2k HDFury would be the one's to bring it market, but it hasn't happened and I have my doubts that it is even possible. Madshi is still perfecting MadVR and has had loads of beta testers for several years. JVC only includes it because they have high end projectors and can offset the cost. Sony doesn't have one on their high end projectors ( their "solution" has been a debate and under intense scrutiny here)
> 
> Maybe we'll see it, maybe we won't, but right now LLDV via HDfury and DTM via MadVR for PC are the best and most cost effective solutions.


Yes, but not for streaming sites like Netflix, Amazon Prime, AppleTV, Paramount+ - - just to name a few that I subscribe to. If you have a magic way to use MadVR on the PC with streaming sites - - I'm all ears.


----------



## Brajesh

Casey_Bryson said:


> Maybe we'll see it, maybe we won't, but right now LLDV via HDfury and DTM via MadVR for PC are the best and most cost effective solutions.


This ↑↑↑

I looked into MadVR, but the info, discussion on it is overwhelming and seems complicated. Even HDFury seems a little complicated at first, but it has a smaller learning curve, and most users will be fine with just a couple of settings to apply & be done. Basically this that @Dave Harper suggested. I'm using 10 - EDID...


----------



## abaintor

Casey_Bryson said:


> Almost everything worth watching is available as an MKV and for that MadVR on PC is the best solution and also the most cost effective, but I get it, not everyone wants to tinker to get the best, hence the expense of the Lumagen and MadVR Envy.
> 
> I think of it were possible around $2k HDFury would be the one's to bring it market, but it hasn't happened and I have my doubts that it is even possible. Madshi is still perfecting MadVR and has had loads of beta testers for several years. JVC only includes it because they have high end projectors and can offset the cost. Sony doesn't have one on their high end projectors ( their "solution" has been a debate and under intense scrutiny here)
> 
> Maybe we'll see it, maybe we won't, but right now LLDV via HDfury and DTM via MadVR for PC are the best and most cost effective solutions.


I disagree with that : a PC with madvr does DTM only on HDR10 stream at most, and ignores the dolby vision layer (or HDR10+). So you loose all the dynamic metadata embedded in the video stream and get only improved static HDR.
So yes this is better than just static HDR but below the dolby vision experience.

I think this is just a matter of time when we will get a correct dolby vision rendering. No DTM will be needed, but only for the other formats (SDR, or static HDR)


----------



## vagos1103gr1

Finally I return my Hisense l9g cause of the black problem, and I am thinking to buy the T1. I will appreciate any advice where to buy and a good screen to pair with it.


----------



## Maqnvm7

Brajesh said:


> This ↑↑↑
> 
> I looked into MadVR, but the info, discussion on it is overwhelming and seems complicated. Even HDFury seems a little complicated at first, but it has a smaller learning curve, and most users will be fine with just a couple of settings to apply & be done. Basically this that @Dave Harper suggested. I'm using 10 - EDID...
> View attachment 3237925
> 
> 
> View attachment 3237926


Sorry for my lack of knowledge, but what is the purpose / advantage of this?


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Brajesh said:


> This ↑↑↑
> 
> I looked into MadVR, but the info, discussion on it is overwhelming and seems complicated. Even HDFury seems a little complicated at first, but it has a smaller learning curve, and most users will be fine with just a couple of settings to apply & be done. Basically this that @Dave Harper suggested. I'm using 10 - EDID...
> View attachment 3237925
> 
> 
> View attachment 3237926


 I would argue that MadVR could be just as easy. You can post a bin file that would give everyone the settings needed and modify one or two settings for screen size/nits. Screenshots to make it very easy. Most UST's would work with the same settings. Maybe different bin files for GPU, but maybe 2 or 3 at most.

Right now no one has made it easy, but it could be very easy as long as you have basic computer skills.


----------



## Xspearo

I was watching Avenger: End Game on Disney plus with DV on and notice there are some very dark scenes especially around 50:00 mark until about 57:00. Are there some setting I should have on or off to brighten scenes like this one? 

Also is there a way to disable DV? I'm using fire stick.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

abaintor said:


> I disagree with that : a PC with madvr does DTM only on HDR10 stream at most, and ignores the dolby vision layer (or HDR10+). So you loose all the dynamic metadata embedded in the video stream and get only improved static HDR.
> So yes this is better than just static HDR but below the dolby vision experience.
> 
> I think this is just a matter of time when we will get a correct dolby vision rendering. No DTM will be needed, but only for the other formats (SDR, or static HDR)


But with MadVR you have totall control over the DTM, with DV you are relying on the implementation from the content creator and how your TV/Projector implements DV. 

I'll take total control and better processing FTW.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Xspearo said:


> I was watching Avenger: End Game on Disney plus with DV on and notice there are some very dark scenes especially around 50:00 mark until about 57:00. Are there some setting I should have on or off to brighten scenes like this one?



Case in point...madVR will analyze the scene and frame and tell you how many nits you should be seeing. 

More than likely it's just how it was filmed, graded, and it's DV implementation. Throw in T1's DV issues/implementation to the mix. 

Note that nothing will fix Eternals. It has horrible HDR/SDR/DV streaming or Blu-ray--tested on projector and DV TV w/ at least 500+ nits. I haven't tested the 1080p Blu-Ray or 3D yet. Hopefully they are better, probably not. It was fine in IMAX and Real3D in the theaters.


----------



## eezrider

Brajesh said:


> This ↑↑↑
> 
> I looked into MadVR, but the info, discussion on it is overwhelming and seems complicated. Even HDFury seems a little complicated at first, but it has a smaller learning curve, and most users will be fine with just a couple of settings to apply & be done. Basically this that @Dave Harper suggested. I'm using 10 - EDID...
> View attachment 3237925
> 
> 
> View attachment 3237926





jeff9n said:


> I also played that clip on the T1 built in media player
> 
> View attachment 3237771


From this screen this looks like it was not actually using DolbyVision as the DV logo is not being shown at the bottom. This looks like the HDR version that Lattiboy showed only brighter because of your high gain screen.


----------



## eezrider

Brajesh said:


> This ↑↑↑
> 
> I looked into MadVR, but the info, discussion on it is overwhelming and seems complicated. Even HDFury seems a little complicated at first, but it has a smaller learning curve, and most users will be fine with just a couple of settings to apply & be done. Basically this that @Dave Harper suggested. I'm using 10 - EDID...
> View attachment 3237925
> 
> 
> View attachment 3237926


@Brajesh are you using a T1? I don't understand what HDFury adds to the story for the T1 as the T1 supports DV (and it can't be disabled). I thought the appeal of HDFury in this context is to enable DV processing by sources (that support LLDV) for display on projectors that do not support DV by spoofing the DV support EDID. Can you clarify the benefit for a T1 user?


----------



## abaintor

Casey_Bryson said:


> But with MadVR you have totall control over the DTM, with DV you are relying on the implementation from the content creator and how your TV/Projector implements DV.
> 
> I'll take total control and better processing FTW.


Madvr will guess how to adjust nits frame by frame but it will never be as the camera captured it and translated into dv layer. So I’d rather use the hdfury trick which relies on the dv layer and lets you adapt the nits range on the fly according to your projector capabilities 
I don’t know if anyone was able to test it though on the T1 but there is no reason why it wouldn’t work

To answer the previous post : hdfury will simulate static hdr whereas it streams a real low latency dv. So you get back all the settings : memc, color adjustment… TBC


----------



## Brajesh

@eezrider, I still have the T1, but it's packed & listed on eBay for sale. Went back to Wemax A300 for my needs. With T1, there may not be any real advantage to using HDFury. Until there's a fix for the DV color issue, I suppose you could use it to manage DV sources & send it as HDR to T1. W/o the issue present (didn't test this)? Another benefit of HDFury is in combination w/Apple TV 4K or better yet Zidoo Z9X to send all content as LLDV.


----------



## zaselim

Casey_Bryson said:


> But with MadVR you have totall control over the DTM, with DV you are relying on the implementation from the content creator and how your TV/Projector implements DV.
> 
> I'll take total control and better processing FTW.


Plz delete this mod, i don't seem to have that option.


----------



## zaselim

abaintor said:


> I disagree with that : a PC with madvr does DTM only on HDR10 stream at most, and ignores the dolby vision layer (or HDR10+). So you loose all the dynamic metadata embedded in the video stream and get only improved static HDR.
> So yes this is better than just static HDR but below the dolby vision experience.
> 
> I think this is just a matter of time when we will get a correct dolby vision rendering. No DTM will be needed, but only for the other formats (SDR, or static HDR)


Are we talking about MadVR plugin for MPC and PotPlayer on windows here?[/QUOTE]


----------



## abaintor

zaselim said:


> Are we talking about MadVR plugin for MPC and PotPlayer on windows here?


Yes Madshi the creator of madvr made another version for projector owners with additional settings and that let’s you import 3dlut table. 
Anyway I find it much too complicated to use besides relying on a pc for watching movies. 

On the other hand the madvr envy or lumagen will act more like an addon device like hdfury but with a DTM processor and with support of lldv I guess


----------



## GaeIta80

Guys, I am quite lost with all these extra devices/tools names...😶😑

Anyway, I am at a crossroad between waiting for a fw update or selling it (my gf is killing me, daily since I got it).

So if you live in Italy 🇮🇹 and are interested, PM me


----------



## zaselim

abaintor said:


> Yes Madshi the creator of madvr made another version for projector owners with additional settings and that let’s you import 3dlut table.
> Anyway I find it much too complicated to use besides relying on a pc for watching movies.
> 
> On the other hand the madvr envy or lumagen will act more like an addon device like hdfury but with a DTM processor and with support of lldv I guess


Oh right, That is the one I was using for HDR content with classic media player (Windows7) on my 1080p TV. To counter the black & white picture with hdr content, i forgot about it because I installed the plugin a long time ago (2016, when I built my system and installed windows7). And now I have a 4k TV since November 2021 and Windows 10, so MPC don't need the plugin anymore but it is pre-installed in my current version of MPC.


----------



## aerodynamics

Ricoflashback said:


> Yes, but not for streaming sites like Netflix, Amazon Prime, AppleTV, Paramount+ - - just to name a few that I subscribe to. If you have a magic way to use MadVR on the PC with streaming sites - - I'm all ears.


Here you go:








VideoProcessor


VideoProcessor turns a computer into a 4k HDR capable live video processor by connecting a video capture card to a renderer and taking care of details such as conversion, timing and HDR metadata. This allows advanced renderers to do things like 3D LUT, HDR tone mapping, scaling, deinterlacing...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## lattiboy

GaeIta80 said:


> Guys, I am quite lost with all these extra devices/tools names...😶😑
> 
> Anyway, I am at a crossroad between waiting for a fw update or selling it (my gf is killing me, daily since I got it).
> 
> So if you live in Italy 🇮🇹 and are interested, PM me


I would hold out another week at least, I get the feeling they already have a beta firmware they’re going to send to people who complained like me to test. If it resolves the HDMI and DV stuff I think most the other issues are perfectly manageable. Plus, I think you’ll find going back to a non-triple laser to be a bit of a letdown. I am unaware of anything as good as the T1 at the price point. The C2 would be closest. 

I have my C2 on eBay. I’m like the bizzaro @Brajesh


----------



## Ricoflashback

aerodynamics said:


> Here you go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VideoProcessor
> 
> 
> VideoProcessor turns a computer into a 4k HDR capable live video processor by connecting a video capture card to a renderer and taking care of details such as conversion, timing and HDR metadata. This allows advanced renderers to do things like 3D LUT, HDR tone mapping, scaling, deinterlacing...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


I saw that. But also - -

*Limitations* - VP can only process what can be captured. You'll need an HDCP free source. I always thought that streaming sites like Apple TV+ and Netflix are constrained by HDCP. "HDCP stands for High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection. ... HDCP is *required to stream Netflix from a device connected to your TV*." 

So I'm not sure how this can bypass everything and be captured by a video card on a PC. But either way - - way too complicated for me. I'd rather have Xiaomi/Fengmi correct their DV problems or find a processor that is "set it and forget it." Or a UST Projector that has tone mapping like a JVC. Unlikely.


----------



## zaselim

lattiboy said:


> I would hold out another week at least, I get the feeling they already have a beta firmware they’re going to send to people who complained like me to test. If it resolves the HDMI and DV stuff I think most the other issues are perfectly manageable. Plus, I think you’ll find going back to a non-triple laser to be a bit of a letdown. I am unaware of anything as good as the T1 at the price point. The C2 would be closest.
> 
> I have my C2 on eBay. I’m like the bizzaro @Brajesh


yeah i am also waiting for the same thing before placing the order (already in my cart on AliBaba lol), Do you have any idea that the international versions of these Chinese projectors come with the increase in price as well or with the same price tag?


----------



## ngcoolman

GaeIta80 said:


> Guys, I am quite lost with all these extra devices/tools names...😶😑
> 
> Anyway, I am at a crossroad between waiting for a fw update or selling it (my gf is killing me, daily since I got it).
> 
> So if you live in Italy 🇮🇹 and are interested, PM me


Sound like it is not a fw issue that you need to sell it  . It is hard to imagine your gf will suddenly be so happy with you and T1 if there is a fw update.


----------



## Maqnvm7

abaintor said:


> To answer the previous post : hdfury will simulate static hdr whereas it streams a real low latency dv. So you get back all the settings : memc, color adjustment… TBC


Does LLDV look exactly the same as normal DV?


----------



## Casey_Bryson

abaintor said:


> madvr made another version for projector owners with additional settings and that let’s you import 3dlut table.
> Anyway I find it much too complicated to use besides relying on a pc for watching movies.





abaintor said:


> Madvr will guess how to adjust nits frame by frame but it will never be as the camera captured it and translated into dv layer. So I’d rather use the hdfury trick which relies on the dv layer and lets you adapt the nits range on the fly according to your projector capabilities
> I don’t know if anyone was able to test it though on the T1 but there is no reason why it wouldn’t work
> 
> To answer the previous post : hdfury will simulate static hdr whereas it streams a real low latency dv. So you get back all the settings : memc, color adjustment… TBC


I hear what you're saying with original intent and all that, but MadVR allows you to make those calls or does it for you if you don't want to get into depth; sometimes the content creators don't get it right and regardless you've still got to adjust your TV/Projector so DV is not perfect either, but not a bad starting point for sure. 

I'd love to see someone like Vincent (youtube) do a head to head: Dolby Vision versus HDR10 with MadVR. Since MadVR acts as a video processor beyond what DV does I would bet MadVR would easily win out...and we're not even talking about supersampling at 8K down to 4K, chroma sampling, luma sampling and all the many wonderful things it can do for 1080p/3D content.


----------



## rooterha

Ricoflashback said:


> I saw that. But also - -
> 
> *Limitations* - VP can only process what can be captured. You'll need an HDCP free source. I always thought that streaming sites like Apple TV+ and Netflix are constrained by HDCP. "HDCP stands for High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection. ... HDCP is *required to stream Netflix from a device connected to your TV*."
> 
> So I'm not sure how this can bypass everything and be captured by a video card on a PC. But either way - - way too complicated for me. I'd rather have Xiaomi/Fengmi correct their DV problems or find a processor that is "set it and forget it." Or a UST Projector that has tone mapping like a JVC. Unlikely.


That's just a legal disclaimer. You can use an HDMI splitter that strips HDCP or any HDFury device to feed it to your PC and it will work fine.


----------



## Ricoflashback

rooterha said:


> That's just a legal disclaimer. You can use an HDMI splitter that strips HDCP or any HDFury device to feed it to your PC and it will work fine.


Thanks. I appreciate the info, but I think I'll still pass. I'd rather be spending my time watching/enjoying content than fiddling around with stuff that I'm really not an expert at. I'll either wait for Fengmi to correct the problem or save up for a processor when the prices drop a bit. I'm a Ron Popeil, "set it and forget it" type of guy, RIP. "I'm not going to charge you $200, or $150, or even $125. But if you tell someone else about (XXX) - you can have this oven/toaster/grill/etc. for four easy payments of $25.00 a month. And if you call now, you'll get my .....absolutely free."


----------



## rooterha

Ricoflashback said:


> Thanks. I appreciate the info, but I think I'll still pass. I'd rather be spending my time watching/enjoying content than fiddling around with stuff that I'm really not an expert at. I'll either wait for Fengmi to correct the problem or save up for a processor when the prices drop a bit. I'm a Ron Popeil, "set it and forget it" type of guy, RIP. "I'm not going to charge you $200, or $150, or even $125. But if you tell someone else about (XXX) - you can have this oven/toaster/grill/etc. for four easy payments of $25.00 a month. And if you call now, you'll get my .....absolutely free."


Yeah - I gave up on VP personally. Even with my 3090 the performance of VP + madVR wasn't great. MadVR by itself with 4k discs worked amazingly well, but something about the VP process significantly slows everything down and kills performance.


----------



## jeff9n

eezrider said:


> From this screen this looks like it was not actually using DolbyVision as the DV logo is not being shown at the bottom. This looks like the HDR version that Lattiboy showed only brighter because of your high gain screen.


I don't see the Dolby Vision logo shown at the bottom of his photos too. This is a DV specific demo file that I downloaded.


----------



## cabuche

GaeIta80 said:


> Guys, I am quite lost with all these extra devices/tools names...😶😑
> 
> Anyway, I am at a crossroad between waiting for a fw update or selling it (my gf is killing me, daily since I got it).
> 
> So if you live in Italy 🇮🇹 and are interested, PM me


Hi, I might be interested in your unit in case you decide to sell it. Could you perhaps write me a PM? As a newbie starting a PM conversation doesn't seem to work for me yet...


----------



## abaintor

Maqnvm7 said:


> Does LLDV look exactly the same as normal DV?


Yes this is exactly the same : lldv is handled by the source (bluray player, nvidia shield…) whereas standard dv is handled by the display. It is an evolution of the format to decrease the latency


----------



## abaintor

Casey_Bryson said:


> I hear what you're saying with original intent and all that, but MadVR allows you to make those calls or does it for you if you don't want to get into depth; sometimes the content creators don't get it right and regardless you've still got to adjust your TV/Projector so DV is not perfect either, but not a bad starting point for sure.
> 
> I'd love to see someone like Vincent (youtube) do a head to head: Dolby Vision versus HDR10 with MadVR. Since MadVR acts as a video processor beyond what DV does I would bet MadVR would easily win out...and we're not even talking about supersampling at 8K down to 4K, chroma sampling, luma sampling and all the many wonderful things it can do for 1080p/3D content.


Of course madvr does an amazing job, even better sometimes than the way hdr has been encoded. However as all new technologies it will achieve maturity and you will get a real difference. 
For example basic instinct in dolby vision has an amazing dynamic range (diff between dark and bright parts of the picture ) that madvr is unable to reproduce. 
I wish we could get a real DTM in the projector itself but it will come later and for now dv is the future of display quality


----------



## mirkmito

wltam said:


> I was thinking the same! @mirkmito: Can you perhaps share what you have heard in case you have spoken to their customer service?


@wltam Their answer:

Dear Sir,


Sorry for the bad experience！
1.In order to better solve the too saturated colors on Dolby Vision, it will be helpful if you answer these few questions.
 1.1What is the current software version of your projector?
 1.2.Please provide us with the SN code at the bottom of your projector, and we will send you a beta version.
 And we are sending you a Dolby video in the attachment to test whether the problem you described above will recur.
2.What Dolby Vision pursues is WHAT THE CONTENT CREATOR SEES IS WHAT THE VIEWER GETS. 
Therefore, Dolby Vision explicitly requires MEMC to be closed by default, and Fengmi T1 is a projector officially certified by Dolby.
We understand what you said. There are other products that support MEMC in Dolby Vision, and they open the customization options
for users to choose to turn MEMC on/off in Dolby Vision. However, after comprehensive consideration, our team did not adopt this setting. 
3.Our chip supports HDR 10+ decoding. After receiving your feedback, we have arranged a test team to test it. 
Thank you for using and supporting our products, we have sent your valuable comments and feedback to the product manager. 
We will update the progress to you as soon as possible.

Looking forward to your early reply! Thanks!


----------



## shanedowley

More follow up from Fengmi/Xiaomi support:



> *From: *support <[email protected]>
> *Subject: Re: Re: Issue with EDID HDMI handshake between Xiaomi C2/Fengmi T1 and attached source devices
> Date: *10 February 2022 at 07:28:20 GMT
> *To: *


Dear Sir,

Thank you for using and supporting our products, we have sent your valuable comments and feedback to the product manager. 
We will update the progress to you as soon as possible.

Thanks
[email protected]

*__*


> *From:
> Subject: Re: Issue with EDID HDMI handshake between Xiaomi C2/Fengmi T1 and attached source devices
> Date: *9 February 2022 at 16:25:57 GMT
> *To: *support <[email protected]>
> *Cc: *service <[email protected]>


Regardless of how the external HDMI source devices are connected to the Xiaomi C2 (or Fengmi T1) - either directly into the HDMI ports of the projector or via the Soundbar - the behaviour is the same: Issues with HDMI EDID handshake and signal format synch. 

The only work-around I have found is to reset the HDMI synch by changing the HDMI version number (between 1.4, 2.0, 2.1) under the Playback setting of the Projector’s HDMI menu. 

So it appears that the software managing the projector’s HDMI handshake and signal format synch is not working correctly. 

I’d be grateful if you could investigate this further and provide a fix in a firmware update.


----------



## Tanizhq

mirkmito said:


> @wltam Their answer:
> 
> Dear Sir,
> 
> 
> Sorry for the bad experience！
> 1.In order to better solve the too saturated colors on Dolby Vision, it will be helpful if you answer these few questions.
> 1.1What is the current software version of your projector?
> 1.2.Please provide us with the SN code at the bottom of your projector, and we will send you a beta version.
> And we are sending you a Dolby video in the attachment to test whether the problem you described above will recur.
> 2.What Dolby Vision pursues is WHAT THE CONTENT CREATOR SEES IS WHAT THE VIEWER GETS.
> Therefore, Dolby Vision explicitly requires MEMC to be closed by default, and Fengmi T1 is a projector officially certified by Dolby.
> We understand what you said. There are other products that support MEMC in Dolby Vision, and they open the customization options
> for users to choose to turn MEMC on/off in Dolby Vision. However, after comprehensive consideration, our team did not adopt this setting.
> 3.Our chip supports HDR 10+ decoding. After receiving your feedback, we have arranged a test team to test it.
> Thank you for using and supporting our products, we have sent your valuable comments and feedback to the product manager.
> We will update the progress to you as soon as possible.
> 
> Looking forward to your early reply! Thanks!


Damn if theyfix the DV red issue and add HDR10+ in the next firmware that will be insane

Although people are saying it has a hard time handling HDR? Not sure to what extent the issue is though. Perhaps they can be poked regarding having better HDR too


----------



## mirkmito

Tanizhq said:


> Damn if theyfix the DV red issue and add HDR10+ in the next firmware that will be insane
> 
> Although people are saying it has a hard time handling HDR? Not sure to what extent the issue is though. Perhaps they can be poked regarding having better HDR too


When I look with oppo, I have 3 user profiles .. and I do a calibration with 3 curves 1000/1500/2000nit and I simply change as needed

While using netflix / D + / Prime is a bit limiting ... but that's okay


----------



## Tanizhq

mirkmito said:


> When I look with oppo, I have 3 user profiles .. and I do a calibration with 3 curves 1000/1500/2000nit and I simply change as needed
> 
> While using netflix / D + / Prime is a bit limiting ... but that's okay


Most of my content is through Netflix/Prime/AppleTV+/Youtube so I guess I need to find some kinda universal setting, because I really dont want to change for each thing I watch. 
Anyone have a suggestion on some good calibration values to use for basically everything?


----------



## Brajesh

Those in communication with Fengmi, please send them this link with HDR10+ samples: Samples - Official Kodi Wiki


----------



## whiskthecat

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Autoboot to HDMI is working find for me, and I was able to automate the projector on/off features without issue.
> 
> I got focus pretty darn good, fan noise is good, brightness is good, colors are good, the unit looks good, it checked all the boxes for me.
> Looking forward to seeing how it can be better, but happy with it as is for sure.
> 
> My only regret is backing the Vava Chroma and not knowing about the T1 sooner


So you don't have any handshake problems that require messing with HDMI revision? Perhaps it is because you are using autoboot?


----------



## mirkmito

A friend of mine just bought the T1 ...
Have any of you had problems with eArc on hdmi 3?

Connect the firestick to its avr (Denon), set it in the vpr eArc enabled, both in passthrough and in automatic ... but it does not emit sound ...

While if you connect the firestick to the hdmi 3 it does not detect anything, while in the others it works correctly ...

Anyone have any suggestions?


----------



## eezrider

mirkmito said:


> A friend of mine just bought the T1 ...
> Have any of you had problems with eArc on hdmi 3?
> 
> Connect the firestick to its avr (Denon), set it in the vpr eArc enabled, both in passthrough and in automatic ... but it does not emit sound ...
> 
> While if you connect the firestick to the hdmi 3 it does not detect anything, while in the others it works correctly ...
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions?


I use a Vizio sound bar in hdmi 3, which works OK. Only annoying issue is that the CEC sync between T1 and soundbar causes an informational notice about volume control to be displayed bottom right when changing volume with the T1 remote and the sound bar volume is changed erratically. It's as if there is some conflict between the T1's volume and the sound bar's and it takes a moment for them to sync. I reported this to Fengmi but it might have got lost in a laundry list of issues I reported. They replied to me, asking if I'd test a beta upgrade regarding DV, like others.

Do others have this same issue with controlling volume via eARC?


----------



## eezrider

abaintor said:


> Madvr will guess how to adjust nits frame by frame but it will never be as the camera captured it and translated into dv layer. So I’d rather use the hdfury trick which relies on the dv layer and lets you adapt the nits range on the fly according to your projector capabilities
> I don’t know if anyone was able to test it though on the T1 but there is no reason why it wouldn’t work
> 
> To answer the previous post : hdfury will simulate static hdr whereas it streams a real low latency dv. So you get back all the settings : memc, color adjustment… TBC


Mmm, you raise an interesting possibility here. But the HDFury only changes the Metadata seen by the source/display, which then do all the work. As I understand it, LLDV is tunneled in an HDR10 envelope - I thought from previous posts that forcing DV on media players (which then use LLDV) was being used to do the opposite, to take advantage of the DV capability of the T1. What you are suggesting would require the projector to ignore the LLDV content and treat it as HDR10. This works with non-DV projectors but not sure it will with a T1.

Edit: Is there some way the metadata changes injected by the HDFury can trick the T1 into treating the stream as HDR10 and not DV?


----------



## Maqnvm7

Is it possible to use the T1 as a center speaker in a surround sound setup?


----------



## DeanM3

Maqnvm7 said:


> Is it possible to use the T1 as a center speaker in a surround sound setup?


Not currently. You can only combine it with the Fengmi 2.1 add on.


----------



## lattiboy

I got a reply back with much of the same information others have posted, but I did see this interesting portion:









So I went into the security menu and the last option is “Xiaomi projection settings”. I did the “clear list of trusted devices” even though it was empty and have not had the issue with HDMI getting weird on my Roku every time it restarts. Could just be coincidence, but worth a shot if that’s driving you crazy.


----------



## whiskthecat

lattiboy said:


> I did the “clear list of trusted devices” even though it was empty and have not had the issue with HDMI getting weird on my Roku every time it restarts. Could just be coincidence, but worth a shot if that’s driving you crazy.


Great to hear, let us know if it holds up or not.


----------



## CabbageMan

DeanM3 said:


> Not currently. You can only combine it with the Fengmi 2.1 add on.


Does anyone use these? Are they any good?


----------



## CabbageMan

lattiboy said:


> I got a reply back with much of the same information others have posted, but I did see this interesting portion:
> 
> View attachment 3238399
> 
> So I went into the security menu and the last option is “Xiaomi projection settings”. I did the “clear list of trusted devices” even though it was empty and have not had the issue with HDMI getting weird on my Roku every time it restarts. Could just be coincidence, but worth a shot if that’s driving you crazy.


Not sure I understand the last part. Are they saying there is something in the security settings that will fix this? Have you looked?

Edit: Oh I missed your explanation at the bottom. I will try that tonight. Thanks!


----------



## DeanM3

CabbageMan said:


> Does anyone use these? Are they any good?


I don’t think anyone here has them. I requested that they add 3.5mm subwoofer output in the next firmware. Let’s see if that happens, but I’ll not optimistic.


----------



## lattiboy

Actual detailed responses! I’ll try to find this setting tonight as my previous “clear trusted” thing was short lived and HDMI is being weird again. I used Google translate and this is referring to the “auto inputs play option”, which is in the “system” not “security” portion of settings. I already had this on, so I’m going to try turning it off to see if that works.


----------



## zoomx2

FYI, the second last is Language. You can change it to English.


----------



## zoomx2

Sorry I guess the screen shoot from Fengmi lol


----------



## Clover yuan

Reason for purchase
In order to purchase a screen device for the living room of the new home, I have compared and selected TV, projection and laser projection.

Let’s talk about the characteristics of these three categories first:
TV: The reference is the SONY TV in the parent's home. The advantage is that the brightness is good, the functions are complete, the color, interface, compatibility, screen projection and other functions of the TV are very easy to use, and the stability is not to be said. The disadvantage is that the screen is relatively small. A 55-inch TV is good for watching TV shows and other TV programs, but watching movies is not enough.

Projection: The reference is the first generation of Xiaomi Mijia projector that I used when I rented a house. The advantage is that the projection screen is large enough to support side projection, and the projection is usually placed behind or beside the sofa. Although there are only two 5W speakers, the sense of presence and bass is very good, and the effect of watching movies, variety shows and TV series is very good. . The downside is that the lumens are only 800ANSI, which can't be seen clearly under light conditions.

3. Laser TV (short focus): Laser TV is used by fewer people. The general advantage is that the screen is large and can be adjusted according to the distance of the projection. The maximum can reach 150 inches, the color brightness is relatively high, and the laser life is longer than the projection time. longer.
The downside is that the dynamic compensation and interface are all inferior to the TV. It is basically unnecessary to use the projection to play the PS5. For example, the ports such as hdmi2.1 and eAcr are basically popular on the TV. Very few laser TVs have this configuration.

========Demand-oriented decision to buy direction==========

After understanding the characteristics of several aspects, the following is to look at their respective needs. As far as I chat with my friends, everyone's needs for screen equipment mainly have the following focuses (I believe everyone will use the screen to watch TV programs, TV series, screencast variety shows, movies, etc. There is no perfect equipment, only according to each person's side. Focus on choosing the right equipment)

1. I like to use it to watch TV programs, and sometimes I just want to listen to the sound of TV, and I don’t want friends who are too quiet at home. Or a serious gamer: This is more suitable for choosing a TV. Such friends usually play mobile phones and do housework when watching TV. It is necessary to turn on the lights in the room, and projection and laser projection are not good choices. Moreover, the TV's anti-tearing performance is good, it can support 4K high frame rate, and it can exert the maximum performance of PS5 XSX.

2. In renting a house, or wanting to buy a TV where it is difficult to carry, like watching online programs and screencasting: Generally, the TV is larger than 80 inches, and it is very difficult to carry.

3. I like to watch movies, and have a great demand for sound quality and picture. Switch game lovers: Laser TV is a better choice. The principle of laser TV is similar to that of cinema. The color range of full-color laser is not inferior to the color of TV. At home Closing the curtains to watch the laser TV can basically achieve the effect of a small theater, and you don't have to endure the interference of people walking around in the theater and others. The Switch game is projected on the laser TV, and it will not be blocked like the projection. Like a game like Just Dance, it can also ensure that the line of sight is flush with the screen, and you will not look down at the TV and dance, which is very comfortable (high frame rate in Switch games). Relatively few, so laser TVs are basically competent)

========Options to empty my wallet==========

After clarifying the specific needs, it depends on the personal choice. I personally prefer the third type. Enjoying movies at home and eating fruits are the greatest relaxation.
I generally watch very few TV shows except sports and news channels, so movies and online shows are my core, and I occasionally play PS5 with friends.
Finally, I made up my mind to buy Fengmi T1, mainly because of the following three points:

1. Screen: The projection size is large enough, the color is rich enough, and the brightness is higher than the projection (2800ANSI)

2. Weight and volume: Compared with a 75-inch TV, the weight of more than 20kg and the volume of the TV cabinet that is usually occupied when it is not turned on.

3. Sound: The official said that Bowers & Wilkins (B&W) sound is used. Compared with only sound without power amplifier, it cannot exert the power of sound. However, the 2*15W audio power is quite sincere among many laser TVs.


parameter configuration
The official homepage of Fengmi is very clear, please search by yourself.

In fact, on the technical level, many business evaluations did not mention which ALPD technology version Fengmi T1 uses. There is some writing in this regard, and I will add it when I have finished my research.

Appearance Gallery









The front formovie will have a dark light and a sense of technology. The black one in the front is not the sound. The real sound is on the left and right sides.








Bowers & Wilkins (B&W) audio, the front is made of cloth, the color is more versatile








Every hair is very realistic, it really feels like a lion is in front of you (1080P film source)










It's also good to see characters, and dark scenes will have the problem of lack of detail and lack of contrast, but it is acceptable.

feeling of using
Advantages:
The overall weight is 10kg, and it is very convenient to carry. The picture can reach 4K. The DOBLY sound effect has not been tested yet, but the high and low frequencies can be basically separated. Using it at home to watch 4K movies is indeed a cinema-level enjoyment.

Since the projection paint was painted during the decoration, the effect is better than the reflection of ordinary paint, so I have not purchased the anti-light screen. At present, I feel that I can wait for the price of the anti-light screen to be lower. In addition, if the anti-light screen is used , the size is fixed.


Weaknesses:
Without the official multi-channel external audio support, there is still a lot of room for improvement in the distance to the cinema effect (physical channels above 7.1).

In addition, after listening to the music, the high, medium and low frequency levels are clearly defined. Listening to music and watching TV series is very good. But for watching movies, even if the theater mode is turned on, there is still a lack of bass, and it feels that the movie mode is not much different from the normal mode.

Summarize
In general, this is a good device suitable for relaxing at home, watching dramas and movies. Occasionally, it can also be connected to the Switch to play games, connect to a microphone to sing, and connect to a large-screen device with Steam on the computer. For me who use mobile phones and tablets more on a daily basis, this large screen has achieved what I want a large enough screen.

That's all I can think of right now.


----------



## Tanizhq

lattiboy said:


> Actual detailed responses! I’ll try to find this setting tonight as my previous “clear trusted” thing was short lived and HDMI is being weird again. I used Google translate and this is referring to the “auto inputs play option”, which is in the “system” not “security” portion of settings. I already had this on, so I’m going to try turning it off to see if that works.
> 
> View attachment 3238630


Does "future release" for the dark HDR fix mean a future firmware update or a future model? I really hope itsfirmware haha


----------



## humax

Clover yuan said:


> It's also good to see characters, and dark scenes will have the problem of lack of detail and lack of contrast, but it is acceptable.



Thank you for your input! However, you are not using this projector to the full of its abilities without an ALR screen. Do yourself a favor and get one. A simple wall is not cutting it anymore!


----------



## Maqnvm7

humax said:


> Thank you for your input! However, you are not using this projector to the full of its abilities without an ALR screen. Do yourself a favor and get one. A simple wall is not cutting it anymore!


Does an ALR screen have any advantages in a dark environment? I also need to get a screen, but I never watch stuff during daytime, so…


----------



## zoomx2

Clover yuan said:


> Reason for purchase
> In order to purchase a screen device for the living room of the new home, I have compared and selected TV, projection and laser projection.
> 
> Let’s talk about the characteristics of these three categories first:
> TV: The reference is the SONY TV in the parent's home. The advantage is that the brightness is good, the functions are complete, the color, interface, compatibility, screen projection and other functions of the TV are very easy to use, and the stability is not to be said. The disadvantage is that the screen is relatively small. A 55-inch TV is good for watching TV shows and other TV programs, but watching movies is not enough.
> 
> Projection: The reference is the first generation of Xiaomi Mijia projector that I used when I rented a house. The advantage is that the projection screen is large enough to support side projection, and the projection is usually placed behind or beside the sofa. Although there are only two 5W speakers, the sense of presence and bass is very good, and the effect of watching movies, variety shows and TV series is very good. . The downside is that the lumens are only 800ANSI, which can't be seen clearly under light conditions.
> 
> 3. Laser TV (short focus): Laser TV is used by fewer people. The general advantage is that the screen is large and can be adjusted according to the distance of the projection. The maximum can reach 150 inches, the color brightness is relatively high, and the laser life is longer than the projection time. longer.
> The downside is that the dynamic compensation and interface are all inferior to the TV. It is basically unnecessary to use the projection to play the PS5. For example, the ports such as hdmi2.1 and eAcr are basically popular on the TV. Very few laser TVs have this configuration.
> 
> ========Demand-oriented decision to buy direction==========
> 
> After understanding the characteristics of several aspects, the following is to look at their respective needs. As far as I chat with my friends, everyone's needs for screen equipment mainly have the following focuses (I believe everyone will use the screen to watch TV programs, TV series, screencast variety shows, movies, etc. There is no perfect equipment, only according to each person's side. Focus on choosing the right equipment)
> 
> 1. I like to use it to watch TV programs, and sometimes I just want to listen to the sound of TV, and I don’t want friends who are too quiet at home. Or a serious gamer: This is more suitable for choosing a TV. Such friends usually play mobile phones and do housework when watching TV. It is necessary to turn on the lights in the room, and projection and laser projection are not good choices. Moreover, the TV's anti-tearing performance is good, it can support 4K high frame rate, and it can exert the maximum performance of PS5 XSX.
> 
> 2. In renting a house, or wanting to buy a TV where it is difficult to carry, like watching online programs and screencasting: Generally, the TV is larger than 80 inches, and it is very difficult to carry.
> 
> 3. I like to watch movies, and have a great demand for sound quality and picture. Switch game lovers: Laser TV is a better choice. The principle of laser TV is similar to that of cinema. The color range of full-color laser is not inferior to the color of TV. At home Closing the curtains to watch the laser TV can basically achieve the effect of a small theater, and you don't have to endure the interference of people walking around in the theater and others. The Switch game is projected on the laser TV, and it will not be blocked like the projection. Like a game like Just Dance, it can also ensure that the line of sight is flush with the screen, and you will not look down at the TV and dance, which is very comfortable (high frame rate in Switch games). Relatively few, so laser TVs are basically competent)
> 
> ========Options to empty my wallet==========
> 
> After clarifying the specific needs, it depends on the personal choice. I personally prefer the third type. Enjoying movies at home and eating fruits are the greatest relaxation.
> I generally watch very few TV shows except sports and news channels, so movies and online shows are my core, and I occasionally play PS5 with friends.
> Finally, I made up my mind to buy Fengmi T1, mainly because of the following three points:
> 
> 1. Screen: The projection size is large enough, the color is rich enough, and the brightness is higher than the projection (2800ANSI)
> 
> 2. Weight and volume: Compared with a 75-inch TV, the weight of more than 20kg and the volume of the TV cabinet that is usually occupied when it is not turned on.
> 
> 3. Sound: The official said that Bowers & Wilkins (B&W) sound is used. Compared with only sound without power amplifier, it cannot exert the power of sound. However, the 2*15W audio power is quite sincere among many laser TVs.
> 
> 
> parameter configuration
> The official homepage of Fengmi is very clear, please search by yourself.
> 
> In fact, on the technical level, many business evaluations did not mention which ALPD technology version Fengmi T1 uses. There is some writing in this regard, and I will add it when I have finished my research.
> 
> Appearance Gallery
> 
> View attachment 3238666
> 
> The front formovie will have a dark light and a sense of technology. The black one in the front is not the sound. The real sound is on the left and right sides.
> View attachment 3238667
> 
> Bowers & Wilkins (B&W) audio, the front is made of cloth, the color is more versatile
> View attachment 3238669
> 
> Every hair is very realistic, it really feels like a lion is in front of you (1080P film source)
> View attachment 3238670
> 
> 
> 
> It's also good to see characters, and dark scenes will have the problem of lack of detail and lack of contrast, but it is acceptable.
> 
> feeling of using
> Advantages:
> The overall weight is 10kg, and it is very convenient to carry. The picture can reach 4K. The DOBLY sound effect has not been tested yet, but the high and low frequencies can be basically separated. Using it at home to watch 4K movies is indeed a cinema-level enjoyment.
> 
> Since the projection paint was painted during the decoration, the effect is better than the reflection of ordinary paint, so I have not purchased the anti-light screen. At present, I feel that I can wait for the price of the anti-light screen to be lower. In addition, if the anti-light screen is used , the size is fixed.
> 
> 
> Weaknesses:
> Without the official multi-channel external audio support, there is still a lot of room for improvement in the distance to the cinema effect (physical channels above 7.1).
> 
> In addition, after listening to the music, the high, medium and low frequency levels are clearly defined. Listening to music and watching TV series is very good. But for watching movies, even if the theater mode is turned on, there is still a lack of bass, and it feels that the movie mode is not much different from the normal mode.
> 
> Summarize
> In general, this is a good device suitable for relaxing at home, watching dramas and movies. Occasionally, it can also be connected to the Switch to play games, connect to a microphone to sing, and connect to a large-screen device with Steam on the computer. For me who use mobile phones and tablets more on a daily basis, this large screen has achieved what I want a large enough screen.
> 
> That's all I can think of right now.


Are you copy and paste a review from online?


----------



## rooterha

Maqnvm7 said:


> Does an ALR screen have any advantages in a dark environment? I also need to get a screen, but I never watch stuff during daytime, so…


Any decent screen is a massive difference over a wall even in a dark room. My last theater was a blacked out basement theater and the difference of the ht3550 before and after was huge.

The other big improvement is blacking out the wall.


----------



## lattiboy

Watched episode 1 of “A Perfect Planet” last night and was absolutely wowed with the picture. This may be my new reference disc. I increased contrast to 56 from 50, which made a huge difference. Had to adjust contrast on some pictures to capture the in-room experience as the camera couldn’t cope.


----------



## Brajesh

As usual, your screenshots look sublime. Can you remind us which screen you're using?


----------



## humax

Maqnvm7 said:


> Does an ALR screen have any advantages in a dark environment? I also need to get a screen, but I never watch stuff during daytime, so…



The New Vividstorm S PRO Electric Tension UST ALR Floor Screen | Latest Version - YouTube

Instead of reading a lot of words just go straight to 7:35 and after. The difference will not be as pronounced in a darkened environment, but it will still be large. An ALR screen is the proper way to go with USTs. There really is no workaround, if you want optimum performance.


----------



## lattiboy

Brajesh said:


> As usual, your screenshots look sublime. Can you remind us which screen you're using?


Thanks! 

I’m using the 120” Hisense .6 CLR screen that came with the L5F I had briefly. I believe it is a rebranded Elite Screens Starbright Aeon screen. I’ve got zero complaints, but don’t know that I’d pay full retail ($1700 lol!) with the Chinese PET screens out now.


----------



## Tanizhq

Just got my T1, paired with a AppleTV 4K, I set it to 4K Dolby Vision, but basically all non DV content looks super bright and blown out to the point where you cant even make out a face or anything.
If I set it to 4K HDR and Match Content so it auto switches to Dolby Vision maybe it will be better? Is anyone else using a Apple TV with it and have some recommendations?


----------



## Ricoflashback

humax said:


> The New Vividstorm S PRO Electric Tension UST ALR Floor Screen | Latest Version - YouTube
> 
> Instead of reading a lot of words just go straight to 7:35 and after. The difference will not be as pronounced in a darkened environment, but it will still be large. An ALR screen is the proper way to go with USTs. There really is no workaround, if you want optimum performance.


That screen is too expensive for me and it's too low to the ground. I also think a tab-tensioned screen from the top down will hold its shape better if you're looking for an electronic, retractable screen. You can get more bang for your buck with a fixed screen (best picture) like the Akia CLR4, the Grandview Dynamique, XY Pet Crystal or SilverTicket screens.


----------



## lattiboy

Tanizhq said:


> Just got my T1, paired with a AppleTV 4K, I set it to 4K Dolby Vision, but basically all non DV content looks super bright and blown out to the point where you cant even make out a face or anything.
> If I set it to 4K HDR and Match Content so it auto switches to Dolby Vision maybe it will be better? Is anyone else using a Apple TV with it and have some recommendations?


Yes, do match frame rate and match HDR. Also, start out with night mode brightness and child mode for image. When in DV I use View mode brightness and “dark” mode for Dolby, but that’s a subjective call.


----------



## humax

Ricoflashback said:


> That screen is too expensive for me and it's too low to the ground. I also think a tab-tensioned screen from the top down will hold its shape better if you're looking for an electronic, retractable screen. You can get more bang for your buck with a fixed screen (best picture) like the Akia CLR4, the Grandview Dynamique, XY Pet Crystal or SilverTicket screens.



PRO Slimline Tension Screen With Ultra short Throw Ambient Light Rejec – VIVIDSTORM (vividstormscreen.com) 

I just chose this video as demonstrative of what a good ALR screen can do. Nothing more, nothing less. As for Vividstorm, their pull-down electric ALR is quite cheaper than their pull-up version. Gregory speaks highly of them as being true 0.6 screens, which is not always the case with other brands. Their tension system is very good. Anyway, as long as you stay with the pet/black crystal material, you are good to go, regardless of type (fixed-frame or pull-up/down). I went with the pet grid 120" VAVA for cost reasons, but I am not fooling myself I got top quality or performance. The price was just right for my current budget, since I also have to buy an ust projector.


----------



## zaselim

Do any of you guys tried gaming on the projector from a console (ps5 or xbox sx) or a PC?
If yes, how's the performance? I know about the response time of gaming mode (45ms) so i am not asking about it but about the overall picture quality when gaming.


----------



## Tanizhq

lattiboy said:


> Yes, do match frame rate and match HDR. Also, start out with night mode brightness and child mode for image. When in DV I use View mode brightness and “dark” mode for Dolby, but that’s a subjective call.


So have it on 4K HDR and do Match content? Or have it on DV and do Match content?


----------



## zaselim

lattiboy said:


> Thanks!
> 
> I’m using the 120” Hisense .6 CLR screen that came with the L5F I had briefly. I believe it is a rebranded Elite Screens Starbright Aeon screen. I’ve got zero complaints, but don’t know that I’d pay full retail ($1700 lol!) with the Chinese PET screens out now.


Which screen material will be better for T1, I am seeing multiple options here on the amazon page for Elite Screens Aeon series.
here, Elite Screens Inc.: Ambient Light Rejecting Screens
I have no clue about which ALR screen is better for UST. Currently I have 120" matt white fixed frame screen with the gain of 0.8 to 0.9, i will check the projector on my current screen first when i get it.


----------



## Tanizhq

lattiboy said:


> Yes, do match frame rate and match HDR. Also, start out with night mode brightness and child mode for image. When in DV I use View mode brightness and “dark” mode for Dolby, but that’s a subjective call.


Because on 4K DV, playing music on Apple Music for example doesnt match content and all the albums looks weird for example


----------



## m0j0

Is this projector fixed at 100" or can it be zoomed to a larger size? Just curious...


----------



## GaeIta80

m0j0 said:


> Is this projector fixed at 100" or can it be zoomed to a larger size? Just curious...


Up to 150'


----------



## m0j0

GaeIta80 said:


> Up to 150'


Oh snap! That's impressive! Currently have a HiSense 100L5F but am giving this one serious consideration.


----------



## eezrider

humax said:


> PRO Slimline Tension Screen With Ultra short Throw Ambient Light Rejec – VIVIDSTORM (vividstormscreen.com)
> 
> I just chose this video as demonstrative of what a good ALR screen can do. Nothing more, nothing less. As for Vividstorm, their pull-down electric ALR is quite cheaper than their pull-up version. Gregory speaks highly of them as being true 0.6 screens, which is not always the case with other brands. Their tension system is very good. Anyway, as long as you stay with the pet/black crystal material, you are good to go, regardless of type (fixed-frame or pull-up/down). I went with the pet grid 120" VAVA for cost reasons, but I am not fooling myself I got top quality or performance. The price was just right for my current budget, since I also have to buy an ust projector.


I have the 120 inch Vividstorm raising CLR/ALR screen and can testify to how well it works. The screen needs to be slightly higher than the projector - my plan is to mount the screen behind and flush with the top of a cabinet, so it will be well off the floor. For me, as the screen will be raised in front of a wall mounted OLED TV, the combination of a UST projector and a raising screen have made a projector possible (well, acceptable to my spouse). 

I am continually stunned by how good the T1 and Vividstorm combination look. As they are used in a living room, not a bat-cave, the screen has made it possible to get dynamite images without blacking out the room (totally unacceptable!).

The raising screen opens up various room opportunities, TV, artwork, window or blank wall behind. For me, integrating the screen into a cabinet is more acceptable than having a drop-down screen mounted on the wall. Now, having said that, I still need to make the cabinet! Hoping to hack an Ikea Besta cabinet to achieve this. Will share pictures if I can make it work


----------



## lattiboy

m0j0 said:


> Oh snap! That's impressive! Currently have a HiSense 100L5F but am giving this one serious consideration.


The L5F was my first UST and while It’s a very easy to use, very VERY bright projector, the contrast and color of the T1 are many, many leagues above it. As somebody who was really impressed with the L5F, I must say that the Chinese USTs leave everybody else in the dust for raw image quality. Also, if you don’t have a sound system the T1 speakers are astonishing. Like, everything else is a sad joke in comparison. Gives my $1200 soundbar a real run for its money, but no subwoofer out on the T1 which sucks. 

The T1 has some annoying tweaking/babysitting you have to do to keep it looking right with all content, but they seem to be working on a firmware to fix the most annoying issues. In the meantime, it’s far and away the best PJ I’ve ever laid eyes on and I’ve seen a lot.

I sold my L5F for $1600 locally and kept my screen as Hisense has very good screens you’d pay a fortune for separately. They work with almost every PJ except the Epsons that have a longer throw distance.


----------



## CabbageMan

Tanizhq said:


> So have it on 4K HDR and do Match content? Or have it on DV and do Match content?


I’d put it on 4K SDR and match content. Then adjust the chroma to 4:4:4 or whatever your highest numbers are.


----------



## GaeIta80

eezrider said:


> I have the 120 inch Vividstorm raising CLR/ALR screen and can testify to how well it works. The screen needs to be slightly higher than the projector - my plan is to mount the screen behind and flush with the top of a cabinet, so it will be well off the floor. For me, as the screen will be raised in front of a wall mounted OLED TV, the combination of a UST projector and a raising screen have made a projector possible (well, acceptable to my spouse).
> 
> I am continually stunned by how good the T1 and Vividstorm combination look. As they are used in a living room, not a bat-cave, the screen has made it possible to get dynamite images without blacking out the room (totally unacceptable!).
> 
> The raising screen opens up various room opportunities, TV, artwork, window or blank wall behind. For me, integrating the screen into a cabinet is more acceptable than having a drop-down screen mounted on the wall. Now, having said that, I still need to make the cabinet! Hoping to hack an Ikea Besta cabinet to achieve this. Will share pictures if I can make it work


Nothingbutlabel.com made it one based on a Besta, check it out 😉


----------



## zaselim

lattiboy said:


> Watched episode 1 of “A Perfect Planet” last night and was absolutely wowed with the picture. This may be my new reference disc. I increased contrast to 56 from 50, which made a huge difference. Had to adjust contrast on some pictures to capture the in-room experience as the camera couldn’t cope.
> 
> View attachment 3238856
> 
> View attachment 3238857
> 
> View attachment 3238859


Oh man, these shots are amazing. Do they look like that IRL as well?


----------



## lattiboy

Just ordered an HDFury Arcana. Going to test it to see if it helps with HDR stuff and if you can “sneak in” proper DV using trickery!


----------



## GaeIta80

lattiboy said:


> Just ordered an HDFury Arcana. Going to test it to see if it helps with HDR stuff and if you can “sneak in” proper DV using trickery!


How much was it?


----------



## shanedowley

Tanizhq said:


> Just got my T1, paired with a AppleTV 4K, I set it to 4K Dolby Vision, but basically all non DV content looks super bright and blown out to the point where you cant even make out a face or anything.
> If I set it to 4K HDR and Match Content so it auto switches to Dolby Vision maybe it will be better? Is anyone else using a Apple TV with it and have some recommendations?


Set your Apply Tv to 4K SDR 60Hz w match dynamic range On. 
All non-DV and non-HDR content will be properly displayed in rec709 and any HDR or DV content will kick in to BT2020.


----------



## Xspearo

shanedowley said:


> Set your Apply Tv to 4K SDR 60Hz w match dynamic range On.
> All non-DV and non-HDR content will be properly displayed in rec709 and any HDR or DV content will kick in to BT2020.


Hi, do you know if there is similar setting like this I should have for the Firestick?


----------



## abaintor

Xspearo said:


> Hi, do you know if there is similar setting like this I should have for the Firestick?


Yes but to avoid : colors are washed out. The device makes a crappy SDR or HDR to dolby vision conversion. Just let the setting in auto (SDR will remain SDR, HDR in HDR…)
Actually I don’t see the interest of such an option : it does not do a real tone mapping like madvr or dedicated processors.


----------



## shanedowley

Just to ask again: any one using a universal remote with their T1? If yes, how did you set it up?


----------



## m0j0

abaintor said:


> Yes but to avoid : colors are washed out. The device makes a crappy SDR or HDR to dolby vision conversion. Just let the setting in auto (SDR will remain SDR, HDR in HDR…)
> Actually I don’t see the interest of such an option : it does not do a real tone mapping like madvr or dedicated processors.


I'm curious as to whether you have tried an HDFury device or not. I have had amazing success with an HDFury Vertex2 with my projector and use either an Apple TV 4k or Zidoo Z9X or Sony X800m2 to force all content to DV.


----------



## lattiboy

m0j0 said:


> I'm curious as to whether you have tried an HDFury device or not. I have had amazing success with an HDFury Vertex2 with my projector and use either an Apple TV 4k or Zidoo Z9X or Sony X800m2 to force all content to DV.


I have ordered an Arcana to test out, but I do not know that it will be useful as “forcing DV” may just bring the problems with DV to everything like when you force HDR on Roku Ultra.

I’m hoping to find a good HDR profile and then force that output on the T1. We’ll see


----------



## shanedowley

lattiboy said:


> Just ordered an HDFury Arcana. Going to test it to see if it helps with HDR stuff and if you can “sneak in” proper DV using trickery!


When you have your Arcana set up, check out the Info page of the web interface and see what it says for the attached EDID TX0 ( your T1)
For my Xiaomi C2 it reports: “MStar Demo: 4K60 444 DV BT2020”
You’d think Xiaomi would have updated the device EDID identifier for a production unit and have removed reference to ‘Demo’!


----------



## m0j0

lattiboy said:


> I have ordered an Arcana to test out, but I do not know that it will be useful as “forcing DV” may just bring the problems with DV to everything like when you force HDR on Roku Ultra.
> 
> I’m hoping to find a good HDR profile and then force that output on the T1. We’ll see


I use the Vertex2 with both my HiSense UST projector and my Sony 4k projector. I was having some issues with reddish tint but was able to solve by using BT2020 vs DCI P3 color option, plus I was able to input my RGB calibrated colors from when my projector was calibrated into the interface.


----------



## Demetri Zuev

Hey guys!

I was pretty much set on getting Hisense PX1-Pro, until I discovered a certain Gregory's site and his review for T1. It now ssems the UST to get. I can easily get it from AliExpress without any hassles, but I'd like to confirm with the owners here if issues with dark HDR and the need to constantly adjust settings even after professional calibration, mentioned in this review, are still true? I;m not that concerned about DV, since I only have it on a small number of my 4K Blu-Rays and the majority of films I watch are in regular HDR10.

Test Fengmi Formovie T1 : l’avis de Grégory. – – Le Blog de PHC – (there is an english version of the text below french)

I will have a professional calibrate the projector with the use of all necessary tools.


----------



## abaintor

m0j0 said:


> I'm curious as to whether you have tried an HDFury device or not. I have had amazing success with an HDFury Vertex2 with my projector and use either an Apple TV 4k or Zidoo Z9X or Sony X800m2 to force all content to DV.


I used a vertex 2 with a dunehd 4k (zidoo like) and a nvidia shield but I did not see any visible difference on my projector between dv and hdr mode, probably because my projector has a limited color gamut (xiaomi 1s 4k) compared to the T1. But I did not make enough tests. 
The hdfury will also unlock memc in dolby vision which is another benefit.


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> I'm curious as to whether you have tried an HDFury device or not. I have had amazing success with an HDFury Vertex2 with my projector and use either an Apple TV 4k or Zidoo Z9X or Sony X800m2 to force all content to DV.


Does the HDFury Vertex2 work with streaming sites? Like Amazon Prime and Netflix? Since the Fengmi T1 is already DV capable, then are you using the HDFury profiles for tone mapping? Is this static - - which I assume as I don't believe it's frame by frame. And an improvement over HDR with a projector that is not DV capable?


----------



## lattiboy

Demetri Zuev said:


> Hey guys!
> 
> I was pretty much set on getting Hisense PX1-Pro, until I discovered a certain Gregory's site and his review for T1. It now ssems the UST to get. I can easily get it from AliExpress without any hassles, but I'd like to confirm with the owners here if issues with dark HDR and the need to constantly adjust settings even after professional calibration, mentioned in this review, are still true? I;m not that concerned about DV, since I only have it on a small number of my 4K Blu-Rays and the majority of films I watch are in regular HDR10.
> 
> Test Fengmi Formovie T1 : l’avis de Grégory. – – Le Blog de PHC – (there is an english version of the text below french)
> 
> I will have a professional calibrate the projector with the use of all necessary tools.


Yes, the HDR is still an issue and you end up having to adjust for HDR content. Also, calibration is basically impossible as you only have RGB gain to work with. 

It’s a great projector, but it is fussy and requires active management.


----------



## Demetri Zuev

lattiboy said:


> Yes, the HDR is still an issue and you end up having to adjust for HDR content. Also, calibration is basically impossible as you only have RGB gain to work with.
> 
> It’s a great projector, but it is fussy and requires active management.


Thank you for the clarification. It seems then that Xiaomi Laser Cinema 2 would be a better choice.

Btw, I see that you're selling yours, for what reason? Upgrading to something else?


----------



## abaintor

Ricoflashback said:


> Does the HDFury Vertex2 work with streaming sites? Like Amazon Prime and Netflix? Since the Fengmi T1 is already DV capable, then are you using the HDFury profiles for tone mapping? Is this static - - which I assume as I don't believe it's frame by frame. And an improvement over HDR with a projector that is not DV capable?


Yes it does in the same way than Blu-rays or video files. This is not static as the real dolby vision layer is passed through. It just tricks the source to make it believe that the display will support dv even if this not the case. 
So you get the dolby vision experience on a non dv compatible display device. 
It has to be confirmed on the T1 (on my hdr only projector it works) : we don’t know if a special treatment is done on dolby vision playback, so if a dolby vision stream is advertised as static hdr maybe the rendering will be different. 
But one get control back on color settings, memc….


----------



## GaeIta80

Hey T1 lovers,

I need your professional support to evaluate a couple of screen/tray options vs my gf "just sell it!" one since she needs the for posters/paintings 😑

See pic below









Option 1 - the wall on the left (more expensive and complicated but bigger screen): it would need a Vividstorm 120' drop down tab-tension UST ALR screen + a telescopic electric tray wall mounted under the green shelf - total cost $1.950 including shipping from CN ($1550 screen + $400 shelf)
It sounds quite tricky to get an optimal alignment T1/screen but might work. Can't keep the coffee table since the little one is running around the house!

Option 2 - in front of OLED TV on the right (cheaper and smaller screen but quite complicated to execute): it would need a 100' Vividstorm floor rising UST screen, placed where the soundbar is now + telescopic tray from the console. Total cost $1.500 including shipping.
2 big issues here: the screen case is 2.4m vs 1.5m console table; if I place the screen on the coffee table + the electric tray then the soundbar placement gets very complicated.

Option 3 - my gf wins and will have to sell it 😭😭😭

Help me to see a solution that I didn't consider guys 😁


----------



## Ricoflashback

abaintor said:


> Yes it does in the same way than Blu-rays or video files. This is not static as the real dolby vision layer is passed through. It just tricks the source to make it believe that the display will support dv even if this not the case.
> So you get the dolby vision experience on a non dv compatible display device.
> It has to be confirmed on the T1 (on my hdr only projector it works) : we don’t know if a special treatment is done on dolby vision playback, so if a dolby vision stream is advertised as static hdr maybe the rendering will be different.
> But one get control back on color settings, memc….


OK - then I stand corrected. I'm not talking about video files - - I'm talking about straight streaming of Amazon Prime or Netflix with a streamer like Nvidia Shield Pro. I was told that the HDFury solution only works on files and discs (Bluray Player.) And if your projector is not DV capable - - will it show up as "HDR?" Or DV? The limited projector I have has a much better SDR picture than HDR. It all has to do with tone mapping on HDR and DV. Thanks.


----------



## m0j0

abaintor said:


> I used a vertex 2 with a dunehd 4k (zidoo like) and a nvidia shield but I did not see any visible difference on my projector between dv and hdr mode, probably because my projector has a limited color gamut (xiaomi 1s 4k) compared to the T1. But I did not make enough tests.
> The hdfury will also unlock memc in dolby vision which is another benefit.


Just curious if you recall whether you set both of these check boxes under HDR Metadata Generator, as some folks had issues with certain devices not engaging properly without both checked (I saw this behavior on my HiSense UST until I checked the Ignore RX HDR check box):

Check "Use custom HDR for TX0 and TX1 [Ignore RX HDR]" in addition to "Use custom HDR to TX0 and TX1 when input is LLDV"


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> Does the HDFury Vertex2 work with streaming sites? Like Amazon Prime and Netflix? Since the Fengmi T1 is already DV capable, then are you using the HDFury profiles for tone mapping? Is this static - - which I assume as I don't believe it's frame by frame. And an improvement over HDR with a projector that is not DV capable?


I'm not an expert like @Dave Harper, but I can say that it does work with streaming sites like Netflix and Amazon Prime if you use a device that is forcing DV with the Vertex2 in the chain. The Apple TV 4k is one such device that can do this. Also the Sony X800M2. It is a far and away improvement on my projectors that are both HDR capable but not DV capable natively.


----------



## Ricoflashback

GaeIta80 said:


> Hey T1 lovers,
> 
> I need your professional support to evaluate a a couple of screen/tray options vs my gf "just sell it!" one 😑
> 
> See pic below
> View attachment 3239317
> 
> 
> Option 1 - the wall on the left (more expensive and complicated but bigger screen): it would need a Vividstorm 120' drop down tab-tension UST ALR screen + a telescopic electric tray wall mounted under the green shelf - total cost $1.950 including shipping from CN ($1550 screen + $400 shelf)
> It sounds quite tricky to get an optimal alignment T1/screen but might work. Can't keep the coffee table since the little one is running around the house!
> 
> Option 2 - in front of OLED TV on the right (cheaper and smaller screen but quite complicated to execute): it would need a 100' Vividstorm floor rising UST screen, placed where the soundbar is now + telescopic tray from the console. Total cost $1.500 including shipping.
> 2 big issues here: the screen case is 2.4m vs 1.5m console table; if I place the screen on the coffee table + the electric tray then the soundbar placement gets very complicated.
> 
> Option 3 - my gf wins and will have to sell it 😭😭😭
> 
> Help me to see a solution that I didn't consider guys 😁


No option for a fixed screen where you are currently displaying on the wall? Another option is to treat the wall with a special paint and make the surface as smooth as possible. That would be the cheapest as well as the easiest to align your projector. A no, IMHO, on option 2. That doesn't make any sense to me the way your multipurpose room is laid out.


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> I'm not an expert like @Dave Harper, but I can say that it does work with streaming sites like Netflix and Amazon Prime if you use a device that is forcing DV with the Vertex2 in the chain. The Apple TV 4k is one such device that can do this. Also the Sony X800M2. It is a far and away improvement on my projectors that are both HDR capable but not DV capable natively.


You'd have to fool the Nvidia Shield Pro into thinking the display device is DV capable. So, I assume that the setup would be the Nvidia Shield into the HDFury and then to the projector or AVR.


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> You'd have to fool the Nvidia Shield Pro into thinking the display device is DV capable. So, I assume that the setup would be the Nvidia Shield into the HDFury and then to the projector or AVR.


I have the Vertex2 in between my AVR and projector, and all the devices connecting to the AVR. My Shield does play back native DV content, but doesn't have the option to force HDR or SDR to DV, that is why I am using the Apple TV 4k for streaming and the Zidoo Z9X for local content, as they both have ways to force everything to DV.


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> I have the Vertex2 in between my AVR and projector, and all the devices connecting to the AVR. My Shield does play back native DV content, but doesn't have the option to force HDR or SDR to DV, that is why I am using the Apple TV 4k for streaming and the Zidoo Z9X for local content, as they both have ways to force everything to DV.


Got it - thanks. Apple TV 4k isn't an option for me. Apple doesn't allow you to use your existing streaming subscriptions with their player. You have to subscribe through Apple "Channels." Plus - - I can't stand the Apple remote. I'll take the Nvidia Shield Pro backlit remote any day of the week.


----------



## humax

GaeIta80 said:


> Option 3 - my gf wins and will have to sell it 😭😭😭



Option 4 - Find another girlfriend, who will like the T1 more than you do. Just spitballing here!

On a more serious note, I would go with a 120" pet crystal fixed frame screen above the green shelf. The Vividstorm drop-down version you mentioned is also a viable option .


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> Got it - thanks. Apple TV 4k isn't an option for me. Apple doesn't allow you to use your existing streaming subscriptions with their player. You have to subscribe through Apple "Channels." Plus - - I can't stand the Apple remote. I'll take the Nvidia Shield Pro backlit remote any day of the week.


Understood. I always loved my Shield until I got into the Vertex2 and realized the limitations with regard to DV.


----------



## m0j0

humax said:


> Option 4 - Find another girlfriend, who will like the T1 more than you do. Just spitballing here!
> 
> On a more serious note, I would go with a 120" pet crystal fixed frame screen above the green shelf. The Vividstorm drop-down version you mentioned is also a viable option .


Option 5 - Bribe your GF with money, jewelry, etc.


----------



## GaeIta80

Ricoflashback said:


> No option for a fixed screen where you are currently displaying on the wall? Another option is to treat the wall with a special paint and make the surface as smooth as possible. That would be the cheapest as well as the easiest to align your projector. A no, IMHO, on option 2. That doesn't make any sense to me the way your multipurpose room is laid out.


That would work but posters/paintings on that wall are a must without compromise so...goin over it with an electric screen is the only way 😮‍💨


----------



## GaeIta80

m0j0 said:


> Option 5 - Bribe your GF with money, jewelry, etc.


Done! No results, Art is stronger 😆

...posters/paintings on that wall are a must without compromise so...goin over it with an electric screen is the only way 😮‍💨


----------



## CabbageMan

Ricoflashback said:


> Got it - thanks. Apple TV 4k isn't an option for me. Apple doesn't allow you to use your existing streaming subscriptions with their player. You have to subscribe through Apple "Channels." Plus - - I can't stand the Apple remote. I'll take the Nvidia Shield Pro backlit remote any day of the week.


I just got an Apple TV and I have no issues watching content on Netflix, Disney plus, etc. with already existing subscriptions.


----------



## Ricoflashback

CabbageMan said:


> I just got an Apple TV and I have no issues watching content on Netflix, Disney plus, etc. with already existing subscriptions.


I couldn't log on with existing subscriptions. No option. I called Apple support - - no help. Love my iPad but the Nvidia Shield Pro is way more easier to use and in a dark room, the backlit remote is great. I tried Apple TV streamer and it made DV look way too dark. Maybe I had the settings wrong but I ain't going back. All personal preference.


----------



## Ricoflashback

I think you have to ask yourself if the DV content and what you watch is that bad with the Fengmi T1 that you have to look at a HDFury or other processing solution. Hopefully, a firmware fix comes out soon and solves 90% of the problems. Personally, the cure is worse than the disease with all these intermediate workarounds. If someone could develop a processor with frame by frame tone mapping and lots of options for $2k to $3K - - I'd be all over it. Counting on projector manufacturers to get it right in this price range is iffy at best. But it really boils down to what you watch and how acceptable the PQ is. All tradeoffs in life.


----------



## CabbageMan

Ricoflashback said:


> I couldn't log on with existing subscriptions. No option. I called Apple support - - no help. Love my iPad but the Nvidia Shield Pro is way more easier to use and in a dark room, the backlit remote is great. I tried Apple TV streamer and it made DV look way too dark. Maybe I had the settings wrong but I ain't going back. All personal preference.


Yeah for sure all personal preference. Would love a backlit remote. Definitely not 100% sold on the Apple TV just didn’t have the issues you stated. Maybe I’ll return it and try out the Nvidia Shield. Even save a few bucks in the process.


----------



## m0j0

CabbageMan said:


> Yeah for sure all personal preference. Would love a backlit remote. Definitely not 100% sold on the Apple TV just didn’t have the issues you stated. Maybe I’ll return it and try out the Nvidia Shield. Even save a few bucks in the process.


I also didn't have any issues with signing in to Netflix, Amazon Prime, etc. on the Apple TV 4k. I think for streaming with a Vertex2 type setup, you can't beat the ATV4K. For local media playback, the Shield has lossless audio playback while the ATV4K is lossy, so that is a drawback. If that is important to you, you may want to check out the Zidoo Z9X or perhaps one of the new Zappiti players as well. The Z9X does have a backlit remote, and an optional smaller (also backlit) bluetooth remote.


----------



## shanedowley

abaintor said:


> Yes it does in the same way than Blu-rays or video files. This is not static as the real dolby vision layer is passed through. It just tricks the source to make it believe that the display will support dv even if this not the case.
> So you get the dolby vision experience on a non dv compatible display device.
> It has to be confirmed on the T1 (on my hdr only projector it works) : we don’t know if a special treatment is done on dolby vision playback, so if a dolby vision stream is advertised as static hdr maybe the rendering will be different.
> But one get control back on color settings, memc….


Yes. What you say. What the HD Fury devices do is trigger LLDV (source led DV) in your chain. Regardless of your display device, whether it’s player-led DV capable or not, the HD Fury ‘trick’ will enable LLDV at the source. The tone mapping is then done by the source and sent to the display as an adjusted (frame by frame) tone mapped stream matching the capabilities (luminance, gamut etc) of your display. No DV metadata is sent to the display in LLDV mode. It’s all pre-processed at the source. That’s why it’s known as low-latency Dolby vision. So you can have this benefit of frame by frame tone mapping on even regular SDR TVs and projectors.


----------



## shanedowley

If you enable this LLDV source-led tone mapping in your T1 chain using a HD Fury device, the projector won’t see the signal as DV (hence you won’t see the Dolby Vision logo appear on screen). This is because the projector is receiving an already frame by frame tone mapped image done at the source. Make sense?


----------



## Brajesh

shanedowley said:


> What the HD Fury devices do is trigger LLDV (source led DV) in your chain. Regardless of your display device, whether it’s player-led DV capable or not, the HD Fury ‘trick’ will enable LLDV at the source. The tone mapping is then done by the source and sent to the display as an adjusted (frame by frame) tone mapped stream matching the capabilities (luminance, gamut etc) of your display. No DV metadata is sent to the display in LLDV mode. It’s all pre-processed at the source. That’s why it’s known as low-latency Dolby vision. So you can have this benefit of frame by frame tone mapping on even regular SDR TVs and projectors.


Thanks for explaining it so succinctly. Will point people to your post when asked about HDFury, LLDV & tone-mapping. Is Zidoo Z9X doing tone-mapping however? I expect yes, as well as Apple TV?


----------



## lattiboy

I have a shield TV, a Roku Ultra, and a PS5. I’ll be testing out the Arcana HD Fury on them all to see what works best. I also might grab an ATV4K which I had previously, but sold because of the audio bitstream limitations.


----------



## shanedowley

Brajesh said:


> Thanks for explaining it so succinctly. Will point people to your post when asked about HDFury, LLDV & tone-mapping. Is Zidoo Z9X doing tone-mapping however? I expect yes, as well as Apple TV?


Yes the Zidoo devices do their own tone mapping and they do it very well by all accounts. Maybe better than the AppleTV as they are more powerful. Not had a chance yet to compare them.

If you guys want to try and correct the red push on the T1 using one for the HD Fury devices, you can have a go by playing with the HD Fury to create a custom EDID with customised HDR and Dolby vision data block. Bear in mind if you go w this approach, that the version of Dolby vision will be LLDV (source led) and you won’t be enabling the internal display-led DV of the T1. The benefit of this is that you’ll be able to use the image calibration settings of the projector.


----------



## Tanizhq

Anyone have decent settings for HDR in View Mode? If so please share the numbers, would like some general universal numbers as I do not want to change them for every movie. The smaller difference dont bother me too much


----------



## shanedowley

These HD Fury devices are fairly passive devices. They essentially are just EDID data and HDR metadata editors with some rudimentary up-scaling capability. 
They don’t do any clever tone mapping like the Zidoos, Mad VRs, etc.


----------



## Ricoflashback

GaeIta80 said:


> That would work but posters/paintings on that wall are a must without compromise so...goin over it with an electric screen is the only way 😮‍💨


Well, you’ve got your priorities. I have a 75” Sony 900F LCD under my electronic 100” projector screen. Truth be told, I rarely watch it anymore. I’d actually move your OLED TV behind a tab-tensioned screen and move your art to where the OLED TV is currently located. Then, I’d optimize the room for one, central viewing location.

For our next house (downsizing) I’ll have the Fengmi T1 with a 120” or larger fixed screen in a multipurpose living room. I think that’s the best picture quality I can get. Then, in the dining room or combined kitchen room (or a smaller sitting room) I’ll have an OLED TV - probably a 77” size for occasional daytime viewing - news and such. We already have a 48” OLED TV for the bedroom so we’ll be set there. And of course, Mama will have a separate TV room (spare bedroom) for her viewing pleasure. I wish I could deduct the number of TV’s and Projectors like you can deduct kids/dependents off your taxes.


----------



## lattiboy

Tanizhq said:


> Anyone have decent settings for HDR in View Mode? If so please share the numbers, would like some general universal numbers as I do not want to change them for every movie. The smaller difference dont bother me too much


Child mode is good for standard stuff and then I have brightness 51, contrast 60 for custom mode which I use for HDR.


----------



## CabbageMan

Has anyone figured out a way to turn the T1 off with a streaming stick remote? I’m tired of always needing to have both the projector remote and my streaming remote. Looking for a way to actually turn it off, not put it in standby.


----------



## abaintor

Ricoflashback said:


> OK - then I stand corrected. I'm not talking about video files - - I'm talking about straight streaming of Amazon Prime or Netflix with a streamer like Nvidia Shield Pro. I was told that the HDFury solution only works on files and discs (Bluray Player.) And if your projector is not DV capable - - will it show up as "HDR?" Or DV? The limited projector I have has a much better SDR picture than HDR. It all has to do with tone mapping on HDR and DV. Thanks.


hdfury works with streaming services it does not change anything. 

To be confirmed : with hdfury set to pass low latency dolby vision and to advertise the stream as static hdr on edid HDMI signal, it should not raise the dv logo while you get the decoded dolby vision stream (with 10/12 bits and dynamic range). 
Just understand that lldv is a dolby vision decoded stream by the source after a retrieval of display capabilities to adapt the dynamic range on the fly. So a lldv stream has the same format as a hdr stream (except that colors can reach 12 bits)
Hdfury lets you simulate this and set the min/max lumens of the display as it won’t be communicated otherwise.
EDIT: sorry I missed the earlier posts with the same explanation. 

The mystery indeed is what you loose from the projector led internal dv management. I don’t think you loose anything, you even get the freedom back on the settings including the red tint.


----------



## Tanizhq

lattiboy said:


> Child mode is good for standard stuff and then I have brightness 51, contrast 60 for custom mode which I use for HDR.


Will try it out thanks, no changes to any of the other settings or colour balance?


----------



## shanedowley

abaintor said:


> hdfury works with streaming services it does not change anything.
> 
> To be confirmed : with hdfury set to pass low latency dolby vision and to advertise the stream as static hdr on edid HDMI signal, it should not raise the dv logo while you get the decoded dolby vision stream (with 10/12 bits and dynamic range).
> Just understand that lldv is a dolby vision decoded stream by the source after a retrieval of display capabilities to adapt the dynamic range on the fly. So a lldv stream has the same format as a hdr stream (except that colors can reach 12 bits)
> Hdfury lets you simulate this and set the min/max lumens of the display as it won’t be communicated otherwise.


Nicely explained!


----------



## mayaCH

GaeIta80 said:


> Option 3 - my gf wins and will have to sell it 😭😭😭


You want to sell your gf? in this case i would too


----------



## lattiboy

Tanizhq said:


> Will try it out thanks, no changes to any of the other settings or colour balance?


I use Gregory’s settings, although night and view brightness are different it still works well:


----------



## Tanizhq

lattiboy said:


> I use Gregory’s settings, although night and view brightness are different it still works well:
> 
> View attachment 3239420


yeah but that is for SDR, not HDR as a lot of my content is. And he seems to not put the brightness and contrast up like you did. Or do you mean just for the RGB values?


----------



## mayaCH

lattiboy said:


> Actual detailed responses! I’ll try to find this setting tonight as my previous “clear trusted” thing was short lived and HDMI is being weird again. I used Google translate and this is referring to the “auto inputs play option”, which is in the “system” not “security” portion of settings. I already had this on, so I’m going to try turning it off to see if that works.
> 
> View attachment 3238630


Thanks. How is your experience with those settings? i tested those settings back and forth, but after full shutdown + boot pj and shield, jumps from 4k60hzDV back to 4k30hzDV, still need to switch between hdmi 2.0 and 2.1 to get back to 60hz.
i would like to add here, that when i shutdown shield, pj goes to standby (the formovie logo still illuminated, but projection/laser is off, after a minute or so, fans are also off), when i start shield, then 4k60hzDV is still enabled on shield. when i shut down pj (as double press power on T1's remote to skip the 20 secs), everything is off. then start shield, everything goes on again, 30hz... need to switch hdmi on T1 again.
I previously wrote, that you can create a fixed/default profile on the shield, that is still true, but this profile won't be loaded, when T1 reports bad EDID for the HDMI mode again... so i take that suggestion back


----------



## spocky12

shanedowley said:


> When you have your Arcana set up, check out the Info page of the web interface and see what it says for the attached EDID TX0 ( your T1)
> For my Xiaomi C2 it reports: “MStar Demo: 4K60 444 DV BT2020”
> You’d think Xiaomi would have updated the device EDID identifier for a production unit and have removed reference to ‘Demo’!
> View attachment 3239249


It's the same on my T1


----------



## jeff9n

I tested T1 a bit more today with the Roku 4K Streaming Stick with Dolby Vision (DV). The new ROKU offers many display types including

1) 4K Dolby Vision TV
2) 4K HDR TV
3) 4K TV

Under Disney Plus streaming, the color in Mulan looks too artificial and the people face reddish under display type #1 and #2. 

For display type #3 (SDR mode), the color and skin tone look more natural. And the video is brighter.

Until they can fix the reddish issue in DV/HDR, I think SDR is the best mode to use.


----------



## jeff9n

HDR/DV also affects projector that is not DV capable. Using the same Roku 4K streaming stick with DV on the older Xiaomi 4k projector, I saw different color on Mulan outfit.

4K Dolby vision TV or 4K HDR TV display type









4K TV type










In SDR mode, her color outfit is red. And the skin tone color is more natural. And the video is a little brighter too


----------



## jeff9n

Here is the same screen capture of Mulan on the Xiaomi 4k projector with Roku 4k DV streaming stick running under SDR mode (4K TV). But this time the picture was taken at night time. Again, you see her outfit is orangish and skin tone color not natural.


----------



## Sunbox2408

jeff9n said:


> HDR/DV also affects projector that is not DV capable. Using the same Roku 4K streaming stick with DV on the older Xiaomi 4k projector, I saw different color on Mulan outfit.
> 
> 4K Dolby vision TV or 4K HDR TV display type
> View attachment 3239548
> 
> 
> 4K TV type
> 
> View attachment 3239549
> 
> 
> In SDR mode, her color outfit is red. And the skin tone color is more natural. And the video is a little brighter too


Clicked in office mode / shield tv / custom brightness 53 contrast 66


----------



## Tanizhq

Ah I see about the sleep function, it can be put to sleep but not turned back on with the media player remote, kinda annoying.


----------



## taboolie

There may be hope for the global version...


----------



## zaselim

jeff9n said:


> HDR/DV also affects projector that is not DV capable. Using the same Roku 4K streaming stick with DV on the older Xiaomi 4k projector, I saw different color on Mulan outfit.
> 
> 4K Dolby vision TV or 4K HDR TV display type
> View attachment 3239548
> 
> 
> 4K TV type
> 
> View attachment 3239549
> 
> 
> In SDR mode, her color outfit is red. And the skin tone color is more natural. And the video is a little brighter too


In sdr the skin tone looks too white or less colored, in hdr the robe does looks orange but the skin tone looks closer to the Asian skin tone. The fire lamp at the back looks similar in both pictures but the wood does have a slight saturation compared to sdr picture. And I think the HDR/DV picture doesn't look bad compared to SDR, it looks ok to me, its just SDR picture looks less saturated other than the robe(red) and skin tone(less colored).


----------



## Ricoflashback

jeff9n said:


> I tested T1 a bit more today with the Roku 4K Streaming Stick with Dolby Vision (DV). The new ROKU offers many display types including
> 
> 1) 4K Dolby Vision TV
> 2) 4K HDR TV
> 3) 4K TV
> 
> Under Disney Plus streaming, the color in Mulan looks too artificial and the people face reddish under display type #1 and #2.
> 
> For display type #3 (SDR mode), the color and skin tone look more natural. And the video is brighter.
> 
> Until they can fix the reddish issue in DV/HDR, I think SDR is the best mode to use.


I tried an earlier version of the Roku Streamer (not stick) with DV but the picture was way too dark. Having the three options above is huge. The Nvidia Shield Pro doesn't have that ability. Even if the reddish issue is resolved, having the ability to easily look at DV, HDR or plain on SDR (4K) is a nice feature/benefit. Oh well, another streamer to add to my collection. For grins, I'd like to have the Nvidia Shield Pro remote and AI, some of the Apple TV features and the Roku DV all in one streamer. Let's call it the "AppleRokuDia."

P.S. - Does the Roku Ultra also have the same options you stated?


----------



## jeff9n

Sunbox2408 said:


> Clicked in office mode / shield tv / custom brightness 53 contrast 66
> View attachment 3239583


The skin tone is a bit bright. Here is my T1 capture under 4K Dolby Vision display mode


----------



## Ricoflashback

jeff9n said:


> The skin tone is a bit bright. Here is my T1 capture under 4K Dolby Vision display mode
> View attachment 3239716


Do you just plug the Roku streaming stick in the back of your Fengmi T1 projector? I also noticed that the Roku specs say it is HDR10+ capable. Same for the Roku Ultra - - which you could have a hard wired, ethernet connection.


----------



## jeff9n

Ricoflashback said:


> Do you just plug the Roku streaming stick in the back of your Fengmi T1 projector? I also noticed that the Roku specs say it is HDR10+ capable. Same for the Roku Ultra - - which you could have a hard wired, ethernet connection.


Yes I plug the Roku stick directly to the back of T1 HMDI port.


----------



## jakechoy

Ricoflashback said:


> I tried an earlier version of the Roku Streamer (not stick) with DV but the picture was way too dark. Having the three options above is huge. The Nvidia Shield Pro doesn't have that ability. Even if the reddish issue is resolved, having the ability to easily look at DV, HDR or plain on SDR (4K) is a nice feature/benefit. Oh well, another streamer to add to my collection. For grins, I'd like to have the Nvidia Shield Pro remote and AI, some of the Apple TV features and the Roku DV all in one streamer. Let's call it the "AppleRokuDia."
> 
> P.S. - Does the Roku Ultra also have the same options you stated?


I am annoyed by some of Shield's issues..but the 4K AI upscaling is amazing..let's face it..not every content is 4K native..the upscaling makes them look so much better on the BIG screen. The regular updates are also a plus..and the remote as mentioned..amazing. So am sticking with it until AppleRokuDia comes out..lol


----------



## Ricoflashback

jakechoy said:


> I am annoyed by some of Shield's issues..but the 4K AI upscaling is amazing..let's face it..not every content is 4K native..the upscaling makes them look so much better on the BIG screen. The regular updates are also a plus..and the remote as mentioned..amazing. So am sticking with it until AppleRokuDia comes out..lol


Yes - truly exceptional the Shield is. I did read in one of the Shield forums on their site that they are working on a fix and options like the Roku has for DV/HDR/4K on or off. And by the way - talking about upscaling - my IP Scaler on my Denon X6700 AVR does a fabulous job with my Comcast Cable 1080p (1080i/720p upscaled by Comcast to 1080p) to 4K with my projector. Really night and day. I do not have a Comcast 4K box as I prefer the Denon to do the heavy lifting on 4K upscaling versus Comcast on my current PJ.


----------



## CabbageMan

jakechoy said:


> I am annoyed by some of Shield's issues..but the 4K AI upscaling is amazing..let's face it..not every content is 4K native..the upscaling makes them look so much better on the BIG screen. The regular updates are also a plus..and the remote as mentioned..amazing. So am sticking with it until AppleRokuDia comes out..lol


Are you using the Shield Pro or Tube? is there any difference other than storage?


----------



## jakechoy

CabbageMan said:


> Are you using the Shield Pro or Tube? is there any difference other than storage?


Pro. More memory to run stuff and usb ports for external media. It's just a better Shield.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

The lines are getting a bit blurred now.
With mention of the international version and changes to be made, and the one we have now as far as firmware updates.

Has anybody actually tried the beta firmware yet to see what it has added/changed?

I am hopeful that any changes they want to put in the international version also are pushed to the current version, but I have to say by far and in large I am happy with everything as it is.

I still have the random loss of 4K60 DV from the Shield, I did the "reset security devices" or what ever that was and it did not fix it for me.

Lucky for me when its "broken" it sets itself to 4K30 DV not 1080P so I am always in 4K and have DV and I cant actually see the difference between 30fps and 60fps in the content I have been watching without doing some kind of A/B test and probably really trying to look for it.


----------



## Ricoflashback

ViciousXUSMC said:


> The lines are getting a bit blurred now.
> With mention of the international version and changes to be made, and the one we have now as far as firmware updates.
> 
> Has anybody actually tried the beta firmware yet to see what it has added/changed?
> 
> I am hopeful that any changes they want to put in the international version also are pushed to the current version, but I have to say by far and in large I am happy with everything as it is.
> 
> I still have the random loss of 4K60 DV from the Shield, I did the "reset security devices" or what ever that was and it did not fix it for me.
> 
> Lucky for me when its "broken" it sets itself to 4K30 DV not 1080P so I am always in 4K and have DV and I cant actually see the difference between 30fps and 60fps in the content I have been watching without doing some kind of A/B test and probably really trying to look for it.


There should be a noticeable difference between 30 fps and 60 fps. Which makes me wonder if you're really seeing 30 fps or it's mislabeled. Watch a boxing match or something with fast motion - - hockey or basketball. Test it out on the Olympics (or a fast action DV movie) and if you don't see any difference, I suspect it's still 60 fps and not really setting itself to 4K30DV.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Ricoflashback said:


> There should be a noticeable difference between 30 fps and 60 fps. Which makes me wonder if you're really seeing 30 fps or it's mislabeled. Watch a boxing match or something with fast motion - - hockey or basketball. Test it out on the Olympics (or a fast action DV movie) and if you don't see any difference, I suspect it's still 60 fps and not really setting itself to 4K30DV.


I am just watching streaming services, and local media nothing is more than 24 or possibily 30fps in its native frame-rate. I also have MEMC off, I don't like any interpolation or smoothing.

If I did A/B testing I might notice, but in this case, as I have not, ignorance is bliss.

Last time I decided to look for a problem I found it and thats why I have 4 subwoofers now lol.

I would be fairly sure its actually 30fps because its the Nvidia Shield Display setting, not the projector.


----------



## abaintor

If you watch with kodi by default it changes refresh rate to match the movie’s rate (all at 24hz) so there will be no difference between 30 or 60hz except for the interface which is less fluid.
I think this is the same for streaming services to avoid judder


----------



## Ricoflashback

abaintor said:


> If you watch with kodi by default it changes refresh rate to match the movie’s rate (all at 24hz) so there will be no difference between 30 or 60hz except for the interface which is less fluid.
> I think this is the same for streaming services to avoid judder


I've seen some 30 fps that definitely is noticeable compared to 60 fps on streaming services. And then, 24 fps that shows no difference. I'd still prefer the fastest fps I can get.


----------



## abaintor

This is odd, have you enabled this option ?





Match content frame rate on SHIELD TV (2019) | NVIDIA







nvidia.custhelp.com


----------



## Ricoflashback

abaintor said:


> This is odd, have you enabled this option ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Match content frame rate on SHIELD TV (2019) | NVIDIA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nvidia.custhelp.com


Thanks - I'll try it. I was unaware of this feature. It looks like it's a "beta" setting that may cause stability issues or may not be available on certain apps. I'll give it a whirl.

P.S. - isn’t this also dependent on what frame rate your TV or projector can handle?


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

abaintor said:


> This is odd, have you enabled this option ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Match content frame rate on SHIELD TV (2019) | NVIDIA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nvidia.custhelp.com


I have, and added it to my quick menu. Its not a one and done, you have to toggle it each time you play something.
I have had mixed results with it, depending on the content.

It seems to me it worked better for me on my old TV vs the T1, but I was playing more 1080P stuff then and more 4K stuff now, so that may also have had an impact.


----------



## tovaxxx

My T1 arrived yesterday. It´s only a dark grey wall but its stunning. Great colors and great brightness. I love it. Next week my 120" Vividstorm arives. I can hardly wait.


----------



## GaeIta80

tovaxxx said:


> My T1 arrived yesterday. It´s only a dark grey wall but its stunning. Great colors and great brightness. I love it. Next week my 120" Vividstorm arives. I can hardly wait.
> 
> 
> View attachment 3240462
> 
> View attachment 3240463
> 
> View attachment 3240461


Looking good even on the wall! Which settings are you using for SDR/HDR guys?


----------



## tovaxxx

It was a first test after receiving the T1. After receiving the vividstorm i will make more tests about the settings with Nvidia Shield Pro and Apple TV4K.


----------



## Ricoflashback

tovaxxx said:


> My T1 arrived yesterday. It´s only a dark grey wall but its stunning. Great colors and great brightness. I love it. Next week my 120" Vividstorm arives. I can hardly wait.
> 
> 
> View attachment 3240462
> 
> View attachment 3240463
> 
> View attachment 3240461


Stunning colors on a gray wall! No adjustment there. I know a UST ALR screen is the best way to go but for those who can treat a wall with special paint and smooth out the surface - - I bet it's a pretty good picture, as well.


----------



## GaeIta80

tovaxxx said:


> It was a first test after receiving the T1. After receiving the vividstorm i will make more tests about the settings with Nvidia Shield Pro and Apple TV4K.


Ordering the Vividstorm too...even if XY just launched its floor rising PET screen. Curious


----------



## Xspearo

Has there been any update on the new firmware?


----------



## Ricoflashback

For Fengmi T1 owners - - how hot does your projector get? Do you use any extra fans (side clip on fan advertised in the Xiaomi/Fengmi Facebook Page) or any other cooling devices (laptop cooling unit?) I know from past experience that heat kills electronics. I've had AC Infinity fans with a programmable thermostat on my AVR since I bought it. To me, it makes a big difference in keeping devices cool and operating at their best.


----------



## 3sprit

GaeIta80 said:


> if XY just launched its floor rising PET screen. Curious


 Link? 🙂


----------



## Ricoflashback

3sprit said:


> Link? 🙂


If you can access Facebook - - look up this Group and scroll down a little. Email Eric at "Nothingbutlabel" for additional info. 

*Xiaomi/Xgimi/Fengmi 4K Laser projector group*


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Ricoflashback said:


> For Fengmi T1 owners - - how hot does your projector get? Do you use any extra fans (side clip on fan advertised in the Xiaomi/Fengmi Facebook Page) or any other cooling devices (laptop cooling unit?) I know from past experience that heat kills electronics. I've had AC Infinity fans with a programmable thermostat on my AVR since I bought it. To me, it makes a big difference in keeping devices cool and operating at their best.


I am all for extra fans and cooling, have some AC Infinity fans on my AVR.
But the fans on this unit are moving a lot of air on their own. I assume the larger size of the unit allowed larger fans that are good for cooling.

Lots of pretty hot air is coming out of the unit, and that is not a bad thing that is a good thing.

I do not think stacking additional fans on the unit would help with cooling, and perhaps depending on size and CFM may inhibit the airflow.

if the unit was recessed in a cabinet or something I would use fans to get air in and out of the cabinet but not any fans on the unit itself.


----------



## lattiboy

My arcana just got delivered, so I’m going to toy around with it. Would anybody with experience tell me what exactly I should be attempting with the T1? All the posts I see are about faking DV, but since the T1 process DV natively (albeit with issues), what should I set in the web interface?


----------



## m0j0

lattiboy said:


> My arcana just got delivered, so I’m going to toy around with it. Would anybody with experience tell me what exactly I should be attempting with the T1? All the posts I see are about faking DV, but since the T1 process DV natively (albeit with issues), what should I set in the web interface?


I don't have the T1 nor a DV capable display, but I believe there are two scenarios, one where the DV is player led (LLDV) and the other where the display manages the DV setting. I would expect if you setup LLDV through the HDFury it will be coming in as player led and controlled by the player settings and not the TV controls.


----------



## lattiboy

Well, I cannot begin to give a real review of the HD Fury Arcana, BUT I can say that it properly converts Dolby Vision to standard HDR, which was 99% what I bought it for. I’m going to play around more with the HDR and LLDV stuff, but for the moment the RED TINT IS GONE in DV and the replaced HDR is likely much more accurate. When it’s dark I’ll post pics comparing my shots of DV material with and without the Arcana and you folks can judge.

I’m using a Roku Ultra, which isn’t terribly powerful. I’ll pull out my Shield TV and may buckle and buy an ATV4K to do some comparisons. I should put a goddamn Patreon link for all this absurd crap I’m buying for you people 🤪


----------



## zaselim

Hey guys, how are you all doing?
So guys any news regarding the update?
The wait is killing me, in case the updated firmware is only coming with the global version then I think its better to wait for it instead of getting the current model. But if the update is also coming to the current version then i wanna get the current one.
Has anyone tested the beta firmware yet?


----------



## zaselim

lattiboy said:


> Well, I cannot begin to give a real review of the HD Fury Arcana, BUT I can say that it properly converts Dolby Vision to standard HDR, which was 99% what I bought it for. I’m going to play around more with the HDR and LLDV stuff, but for the moment the RED TINT IS GONE in DV and the replaced HDR is likely much more accurate. When it’s dark I’ll post pics comparing my shots of DV material with and without the Arcana and you folks can judge.
> 
> I’m using a Roku Ultra, which isn’t terribly powerful. I’ll pull out my Shield TV and may buckle and buy an ATV4K to do some comparisons. I should put a goddamn Patreon link for all this absurd crap I’m buying for you people 🤪


That's good to hear. 
How much did you pay for it by the way?


----------



## abaintor

lattiboy said:


> Well, I cannot begin to give a real review of the HD Fury Arcana, BUT I can say that it properly converts Dolby Vision to standard HDR, which was 99% what I bought it for. I’m going to play around more with the HDR and LLDV stuff, but for the moment the RED TINT IS GONE in DV and the replaced HDR is likely much more accurate. When it’s dark I’ll post pics comparing my shots of DV material with and without the Arcana and you folks can judge.
> 
> I’m using a Roku Ultra, which isn’t terribly powerful. I’ll pull out my Shield TV and may buckle and buy an ATV4K to do some comparisons. I should put a goddamn Patreon link for all this absurd crap I’m buying for you people 🤪


Great ! It was the expected behavior but it is good to be confirmed. 
Also this is real dolby vision that is displayed, the signal is not altered in any way although standard hdr is advertised. 
It will be interesting to compare the rendering with the native dolby vision processing of the projector to see if they apply special treatments in dv mode. 
thank you


----------



## shanedowley

abaintor said:


> Great ! It was the expected behavior but it is good to be confirmed.
> Also this is real dolby vision that is displayed, the signal is not altered in any way although standard hdr is advertised.
> It will be interesting to compare the rendering with the native dolby vision processing of the projector to see if they apply special treatments in dv mode.
> thank you


I’ve got the Xiaomi C2 and HD Fury Vertex2. Have been playing with them for a few weeks now comparing the player-led LLDV via the Vertex2 set up, with the display-led standard DV of the C2. Both are using the same content samples from the AppleTV 4K 5th gen.

In summary they are equally good on the C2. The C2’s native DV is already very good without any red push. I couldn’t make the picture quality subjectively any better using my custom configurations for LLDV on the Vertex2. That said, the LLDV method using the Vertex2 (or Arcana) does give you complete Dolby vision data block and HDR metadata control which might prove very useful for the T1 where it’s native DV red push is an issue.


----------



## lattiboy

shanedowley said:


> I’ve got the Xiaomi C2 and HD Fury Vertex2. Have been playing with them for a few weeks now comparing the player-led LLDV via the Vertex2 set up, with the display-led standard DV of the C2. Both are using the same content samples from the AppleTV 4K 5th gen.
> 
> In summary they are equally good on the C2. The C2’s native DV is already very good without any red push. I couldn’t make the picture quality any better using my custom configurations for LLDV on the Vertex2. That said, the LLDV method using the Vertex2 (or Arcana) does give you complete control which might prove very useful for the T1 where it’s native DV red push is an issue.



I don’t know if the Arcana is really that helpful. For DV content it does convert to HDR, but you then run into the annoyance of HDR on the T1. I overcome this by setting HDR always on for the Roku and then put brightness at 60 and contrast at 47. Sounds insane, but it looks pretttty good with DV sources. Color is not super accurate in the photo because I’m tired and going to bed:












@shanedowley Could you tell me what you think max luminance and min luminance should be set to for LLDV? I have the Arcana, so I don’t know if I can do all the fancy stuff Vertex folks can….

PS going to buy an AppleTV 4K tomorrow as I think that may be the best device for this setup.


----------



## AlexM89

Hi guys...
Has anyone encountered a problem with light coming off the screen?


----------



## humax

AlexM89 said:


> Has anyone encountered a problem with light coming off the screen?



Is the zoom setting set to zero?


----------



## AlexM89

humax said:


> Is the zoom setting set to zero?


Do you mean the keystone correction ??


----------



## humax

AlexM89 said:


> Do you mean the keystone correction ??



Since I am not currently familiar with the projector's menu, yes I would first make sure keystone/zoom settings are set to zero. According to Gregory: "Regarding the inactive gray border of the DMD 0.47 chip, it is not noticeable on this device," so you should basically not be seeing this.


----------



## AlexM89

humax said:


> Since I am not currently familiar with the projector's menu, yes I would first make sure keystone/zoom settings are set to zero. According to Gregory: "Regarding the inactive gray border of the DMD 0.47 chip, it is not noticeable on this device," so you should basically not be seeing this.


I have not touched the Keystones .... the only strange thing that they are 26cm from the wall to project 100 "


----------



## humax

AlexM89 said:


> I have not touched the Keystones .... the only strange thing that they are 26cm from the wall to project 100 "


I do not have any other suggestion for you. I am sure a T1 owner will soon chime in and help you figure it out. Enjoy your new projector!


----------



## shanedowley

lattiboy said:


> I don’t know if the Arcana is really that helpful. For DV content it does convert to HDR, but you then run into the annoyance of HDR on the T1. I overcome this by setting HDR always on for the Roku and then put brightness at 60 and contrast at 47. Sounds insane, but it looks pretttty good with DV sources. Color is not super accurate in the photo because I’m tired and going to bed:
> 
> View attachment 3240877
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @shanedowley Could you tell me what you think max luminance and min luminance should be set to for LLDV? I have the Arcana, so I don’t know if I can do all the fancy stuff Vertex folks can….
> 
> PS going to buy an AppleTV 4K tomorrow as I think that may be the best device for this setup.


A limitation Gregory notes in his review of both the Fengmi C2 and the Fengmi T1 are their lack of ability to dynamically switch between EOTF/gamma settings for HDR and SDR input signal formats. This means you have to manually adjust the brightness/contrast settings between HDR and SDR content.
This was one of the reasons I sold my Fengmi C2 and replaced it with the Xiaomi C2 which is able to dynamically switch luminance depending on the two formats.

I’ll take a reading of the Xiaomi’s Max/Min rated Luminance for its DV later today and post them for you.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

So just an interesting/fun thing that I found last night.
I was messing around with the pro mode video on my phone where you can control the shutter speed.
at about 1/500 to 1/750 (and faster) if you look at the projector screen you can actually see the separation of the tri-laser.

Was just a neat science, to see how all 3 lasers are indeed working and how they are working together to create the image.


----------



## zoomx2

AlexM89 said:


> Hi guys...
> Has anyone encountered a problem with light coming off the screen?
> 
> View attachment 3240887
> 
> View attachment 3240889
> 
> 
> View attachment 3240890


What’s your screen size? From the pictures, T1 sit too close to the wall.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

AlexM89 said:


> Hi guys...
> Has anyone encountered a problem with light coming off the screen?


I do, but not as bad as you have in your images.
I heard that was normal for any projector.

There is enough light in the room and bouncing around that it just made sense to me.
If I expand the image to bigger than the screen then its a CLEAR difference seeing light being directly on the wall vs this "overcast" so I figured its just the ambient properties of light, the room, the screen, etc, not the projector.

Its really only noticeable on a super bright white image like the focus screen, and even in that situation since I have LEDs around my screen, they mask it.

I really wonder about my screen sometimes, I swear some stuff just seems too "dark" to me where others atleast in there pictures here have it look brighter.
But some stuff does seem pretty bright.

It's an ALR screen, but it cant be upside down, I have the "up" side up and shining a light on it you can tell its the proper orientation.
Your screen looks just like mine however. So curious what screen is that?


----------



## AlexM89

zoomx2 said:


> What’s your screen size? From the pictures, T1 sit too close to the wall.


The screen is 100 "
As soon as the work is finished I do other tests ... and I follow your advice to move the vpr from the wall.
I emphasize that now the sheet is not arranged regularly ...
The bottom of the screen is further forward than the top (today being alone I don't dare to touch)


----------



## AlexM89

ViciousXUSMC said:


> I do, but not as bad as you have in your images.
> I heard that was normal for any projector.
> 
> There is enough light in the room and bouncing around that it just made sense to me.
> If I expand the image to bigger than the screen then its a CLEAR difference seeing light being directly on the wall vs this "overcast" so I figured its just the ambient properties of light, the room, the screen, etc, not the projector.
> 
> Its really only noticeable on a super bright white image like the focus screen, and even in that situation since I have LEDs around my screen, they mask it.
> 
> I really wonder about my screen sometimes, I swear some stuff just seems too "dark" to me where others atleast in there pictures here have it look brighter.
> But some stuff does seem pretty bright.
> 
> It's an ALR screen, but it cant be upside down, I have the "up" side up and shining a light on it you can tell its the proper orientation.
> Your screen looks just like mine however. So curious what screen is that?



Indeed it is too accentuated ...

Yesterday, for example, he didn't (but he was in a different position - but he didn't cover 100 ")


----------



## shanedowley

lattiboy said:


> I don’t know if the Arcana is really that helpful. For DV content it does convert to HDR, but you then run into the annoyance of HDR on the T1. I overcome this by setting HDR always on for the Roku and then put brightness at 60 and contrast at 47. Sounds insane, but it looks pretttty good with DV sources. Color is not super accurate in the photo because I’m tired and going to bed:
> 
> View attachment 3240877
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @shanedowley Could you tell me what you think max luminance and min luminance should be set to for LLDV? I have the Arcana, so I don’t know if I can do all the fancy stuff Vertex folks can….
> 
> PS going to buy an AppleTV 4K tomorrow as I think that may be the best device for this setup.


Here are the Xiaomi C2’s luminance max and min values captured from the Vertex2:


----------



## zoomx2

AlexM89 said:


> Indeed it is too accentuated ...
> 
> Yesterday, for example, he didn't (but he was in a different position - but he didn't cover 100 ")
> 
> View attachment 3240934


If that’s the case move the T1 away further and use keystone to adjust the size. It can reduce the size to fit within the screen. Do you use the center studs for the screen? It helps the frame stay flat.


----------



## lattiboy

shanedowley said:


> A limitation Gregory notes in his review of both the Fengmi C2 and the Fengmi T1 are their lack of ability to dynamically switch between EOTF/gamma settings for HDR and SDR input signal formats. This means you have to manually adjust the brightness/contrast settings between HDR and SDR content.
> This was one of the reasons I sold my Fengmi C2 and replaced it with the Xiaomi C2 which is able to dynamically switch luminance depending on the two formats.
> 
> I’ll take a reading of the Xiaomi’s Max/Min rated Luminance for its DV later today and post them for you.


This makes so much sense. When you see the dive in brightness when HDR is active it's downright shocking. Amazing they didn't address this when their sister company (Xiaomi) has this down pat on a cheaper projector!

Also, I got a reply from back from their support after saying how annoyed I was with the HDR and DV issues on the T1. I asked about the "beta version" I was told I would receive in my first email to them:

_*Dear Sir,*_
*Thank you for your support of our products！
we are currently collecting feedback from multiple users. After collecting complete information, we will push the new version to your SN. *
_*Please wait! Thanks!*_


----------



## abaintor

lattiboy said:


> I don’t know if the Arcana is really that helpful. For DV content it does convert to HDR, but you then run into the annoyance of HDR on the T1. I overcome this by setting HDR always on for the Roku and then put brightness at 60 and contrast at 47. Sounds insane, but it looks pretttty good with DV sources. Color is not super accurate in the photo because I’m tired and going to bed:
> @shanedowley Could you tell me what you think max luminance and min luminance should be set to for LLDV? I have the Arcana, so I don’t know if I can do all the fancy stuff Vertex folks can….
> 
> PS going to buy an AppleTV 4K tomorrow as I think that may be the best device for this setup.


You just have to take the max luminance measured by Gregory and convert lumens to nits
Let’s say 2400 lumens / 3,426 = 700 nits
You can adjust this number while watching both dark and light scenes to check after details

EDIT : Arcana and vertex2 have no difference concerning dolby vision. You can check after hdfury website to see the differences


----------



## eezrider

humax said:


> I do not have any other suggestion for you. I am sure a T1 owner will soon chime in and help you figure it out. Enjoy your new projector!





lattiboy said:


> I don’t know if the Arcana is really that helpful. For DV content it does convert to HDR, but you then run into the annoyance of HDR on the T1. I overcome this by setting HDR always on for the Roku and then put brightness at 60 and contrast at 47. Sounds insane, but it looks pretttty good with DV sources. Color is not super accurate in the photo because I’m tired and going to bed:
> 
> View attachment 3240877
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @shanedowley Could you tell me what you think max luminance and min luminance should be set to for LLDV? I have the Arcana, so I don’t know if I can do all the fancy stuff Vertex folks can….
> 
> PS going to buy an AppleTV 4K tomorrow as I think that may be the best device for this setup.


To judge only by your photos, this looks more like shots you posted earlier of the C2. The colors, red particularly, have less pop. You had always raved about that red dress! Do you feel this is more accurate or is this just that you did less to the image in post?


----------



## eezrider

AlexM89 said:


> Hi guys...
> Has anyone encountered a problem with light coming off the screen?
> 
> View attachment 3240887
> 
> View attachment 3240889
> 
> 
> View attachment 3240890


I see something similar and put it down to light diffraction/scattering occurring in the lens or the lens covering of the projector. It's not the gray border of the chip which others have mentioned, as that would be just a very narrow and focused band around the image.

I'm using a Vividstorm screen, and one disadvantage of the screen is that there is no black border around top and sides which would help with light leakage and sharpen up the perceived contrast still further.


----------



## Brajesh

Apologies if this is going off-topic, but @shanedowley, where did you capture your Xiaomi C2's info? All I see for my Wemax A300, via VRROOM, are:


----------



## lattiboy

eezrider said:


> To judge only by your photos, this looks more like shots you posted earlier of the C2. The colors, red particularly, have less pop. You had always raved about that red dress! Do you feel this is more accurate or is this just that you did less to the image in post?


Good catch! I increased saturation to 58 in the custom setting I’m working on just before I saw your post. It’s still not what I originally was wowed by with DV, but it’s closer.

I am working on a longer post comparing native DV, the C2 DV, and this “always on” HDR + Arcana thing I’m trying to work out. I need to play around more with it before I feel comfortable posting.

The issue isn’t really just color, but tonemapping. Whatever magic is in that Dolby Vision tonemap is really something I want for all my HDR. I thought it could be replicated through LLDV, but it’s more than that.

If the tint/color issues with DV were fixed I would simply enable always on HDR with my Roku, sell the Arcana, and never worry about any of this stupidity ever again.

I firmly agree with Gregory that this projector is only for complete sadists without a firmware update to address DV and HDR. Unfortunately I am one such sadist!


----------



## eezrider

lattiboy said:


> Good catch! I increased saturation to 58 in the custom setting I’m working on just before I saw your post. It’s still not what I originally was wowed by with DV, but it’s closer.
> 
> I am working on a longer post comparing native DV, the C2 DV, and this “always on” HDR + Arcana thing I’m trying to work out. I need to play around more with it before I feel comfortable posting.
> 
> The issue isn’t really just color, but tonemapping. Whatever magic is in that Dolby Vision tonemap is really something I want for all my HDR. I thought it could be replicated through LLDV, but it’s more than that.
> 
> If the tint/color issues with DV were fixed I would simply enable always on HDR with my Roku, sell the Arcana, and never worry about any of this stupidity ever again.
> 
> I firmly agree with Gregory that this projector is only for complete sadists without a firmware update to address DV and HDR. Unfortunately I am one such sadist!


I think most of the magic in real DV results from the tone mapping done by the projector or player guided by the scene-by-scene metadata in the source content. While the DV processing in a player-led LLDV scenario when DV is forced on (which is the basis of the HDFury trick, mimicing what a Sony player does with some Sony TVs) will interpret this metadata when it's present, it clearly can't do that for HDR10 content that has no such metadata. As I understand it, there is some Dolby magic in the software used by the streaming players and disk players that support player-led (LLDV) processing for the HDR10 scenario, but it's perhaps to be expected that the result is not as good as interpreting embedded metadata that encodes a director's intent. Perhaps others more knowledgeable than me can comment on the LLDV process for non-DV content (is this done by the Dolby VS10 software module??).

And a question - do all players that support LLDV use the same Dolby code to do this, or do they use proprietary code written by each player company?


----------



## shanedowley

Brajesh said:


> Apologies if this is going off-topic, but @shanedowley, where did you capture your Xiaomi C2's info? All I see for my Wemax A300, via VRROOM, are:
> View attachment 3241062
> 
> View attachment 3241063


It’s taken from the ‘Connected Dolby Vision EDID Datablock’ under the DV tab of the Vertex2’s web interface. Your A300 won’t have any values here as it doesnt support native display-led DV.

I use these max/min luminance numbers when constructing my own LLDV custom datablock as they best match the capabilities of the projector. For fun I have tried other values but found they either make the picture too dark or over exposed.


----------



## lattiboy

Ok, I think I may have found a “set it and forget it” workaround for the T1 until they fix the dark HDR. I cannot emphasize enough how much I am not advising anyone to do this as we are promised a fix…. Eventually.

This is an absurd and kind of expensive workaround, but since Fengmi clearly didn’t test the PJ before releasing it, it’s what we got! Hopefully they pull their **** together and fix DV in firmware which makes all of this moot.

(I also attempted to remove the Arcana and simply set the display type to 4K HDR and use the settings below, but you lose a LOT of fidelity in DolbyVision content without the Arcana. LLDV is doing something for sure.)

On the Roku Ultra 2020: set display to 4K Dolby Vision. Advanced settings “HDR always on”. (AppleTV 4K also has this ability)

On the HD Fury Arcana: LLDV with min luminance to 10 and max to 700, HDR set to LLDV sync, 

On the T1: view brightness, and these custom image settings. My best attempt, but in no way authoritative:

bright 63
contrast 46
Saturation 58
Sharpness 0
Tone 52
Custom color
R1000
G1024
B944
Active contrast ON

That’s it. No setting changes, no fiddling with image modes, just watch anything and it looks very good. Unfortunately it’s kind of bright out, but here are examples with these settings from 3 different sources. (It also looks good with SDR, but I forgot to snap a picture)

First, the light Im dealing with:









LG “Floating Garden HDR” video on YouTube:










Inglorious Bastetds HDR BluRay rip:










Suicide Squad in DV on HBOMax










Not a panacea, but if DV is driving you nuts and you don’t want to fuss with HDR all the time this is our current best solution as far as I’m aware.

I sincerely wish for the six hours or so of my life this took to figure out back….


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

lattiboy said:


> Ok, I think I may have found a “set it and forget it” workaround for the T1 until they fix the dark HDR. I cannot emphasize enough how much I am not advising anyone to do this as we are promised a fix…. Eventually.
> 
> :Snip:
> 
> I sincerely wish for the six hours or so of my life this took to figure out back….


It looks good to me, and its good news that the Arcana is "good enough" to do this (way cheaper than the Vertex and VRROOM)
I think it was this thread that somebody said the HDFury devices wont work with streaming services only local disc content, I disagreed and cant see why that would be the case.

Nobody should "have to" spend money to fix a device, but all said and done I think the T1 + Arcana is still cheaper and probably preforming better than most the competition.

I use a Nvidia Shield so I do not think there is any kind of HDR always on mode. It switches depending on the content, but I think the Arcana itself can "spoof" HDR being on so that the T1 stays in HDR mode and you wont have to fiddle around with changing display modes.


----------



## Xspearo

lattiboy said:


> Ok, I think I may have found a “set it and forget it” workaround for the T1 until they fix the dark HDR. I cannot emphasize enough how much I am not advising anyone to do this as we are promised a fix…. Eventually.
> 
> This is an absurd and kind of expensive workaround, but since Fengmi clearly didn’t test the PJ before releasing it, it’s what we got! Hopefully they pull their **** together and fix DV in firmware which makes all of this moot.
> 
> (I also attempted to remove the Arcana and simply set the display type to 4K HDR and use the settings below, but you lose a LOT of fidelity in DolbyVision content without the Arcana. LLDV is doing something for sure.)
> 
> Roku Ultra 2020 set to 4K Dolby Vision. Advanced settings “HDR always on”. (AppleTV 4K also has this ability)
> 
> Arcana LLDV with min luminance to 10 and max to 700, HDR set to LLDV sync, view brightness, and these custom image settings are my best attempt, but in no way authoritative:
> 
> bright 63
> contrast 46
> Saturation 58
> Sharpness 0
> Tone 52
> Custom color
> R1000
> G1024
> B944
> Active contrast ON
> 
> That’s it. No setting changes, no fiddling with image modes, just watch anything and it looks very good. Unfortunately it’s kind of bright out, but here are examples with these settings from 3 different sources. (It also looks good with SDR, but I forgot to snap a picture)
> 
> First, the light Im dealing with:
> View attachment 3241149
> 
> 
> LG “Floating Garden HDR” video on YouTube:
> 
> View attachment 3241150
> 
> 
> Inglorious Bastetds HDR BluRay rip:
> 
> View attachment 3241151
> 
> 
> Suicide Squad in DV on HBOMax
> 
> View attachment 3241152
> 
> 
> Not a panacea, but if DV is driving you nuts and you don’t want to fuss with HDR all the time this is our current best solution as far as I’m aware.
> 
> I sincerely wish for the six hours or so of my life this took to figure out back….


Hey, were you able to try Avengers: End Game on Disney plus around the 50:00-57:00 mark with this set up and see if scenes are more visible?


----------



## shanedowley

lattiboy said:


> Ok, I think I may have found a “set it and forget it” workaround for the T1 until they fix the dark HDR. I cannot emphasize enough how much I am not advising anyone to do this as we are promised a fix…. Eventually.
> 
> This is an absurd and kind of expensive workaround, but since Fengmi clearly didn’t test the PJ before releasing it, it’s what we got! Hopefully they pull their **** together and fix DV in firmware which makes all of this moot.
> 
> (I also attempted to remove the Arcana and simply set the display type to 4K HDR and use the settings below, but you lose a LOT of fidelity in DolbyVision content without the Arcana. LLDV is doing something for sure.)
> 
> Roku Ultra 2020 set to 4K Dolby Vision. Advanced settings “HDR always on”. (AppleTV 4K also has this ability)
> 
> Arcana LLDV with min luminance to 10 and max to 700, HDR set to LLDV sync, view brightness, and these custom image settings are my best attempt, but in no way authoritative:
> 
> bright 63
> contrast 46
> Saturation 58
> Sharpness 0
> Tone 52
> Custom color
> R1000
> G1024
> B944
> Active contrast ON
> 
> That’s it. No setting changes, no fiddling with image modes, just watch anything and it looks very good. Unfortunately it’s kind of bright out, but here are examples with these settings from 3 different sources. (It also looks good with SDR, but I forgot to snap a picture)
> 
> First, the light Im dealing with:
> View attachment 3241149
> 
> 
> LG “Floating Garden HDR” video on YouTube:
> 
> View attachment 3241150
> 
> 
> Inglorious Bastetds HDR BluRay rip:
> 
> View attachment 3241151
> 
> 
> Suicide Squad in DV on HBOMax
> 
> View attachment 3241152
> 
> 
> Not a panacea, but if DV is driving you nuts and you don’t want to fuss with HDR all the time this is our current best solution as far as I’m aware.
> 
> I sincerely wish for the six hours or so of my life this took to figure out back….


Yep, you’re on the right track with this approach. I did similar to address the HDR issues of the Fengmi C2. Your work-around is good.

Hopefully Fengmi eventually sort out this non-dynamic switching for luminance between SDR and HDR formats. That, and a fix for the red-push in DV and you guys will have a cracking all in one device with the T1…

I might then sell my Xiaomi C2 for a T1


----------



## Ricoflashback

ViciousXUSMC said:


> I think it was this thread that somebody said the HDFury devices wont work with streaming services only local disc content, I disagreed and cant see why that would be the case.


That was yours truly and I'm still unsure of how the HDFury actually works with streaming devices. It's all moot for me since I won't go through the time and expense of a HDFury "solution" as the juice ain't worth the squeeze, IMHO. Luckily, I'm still a couple months away from buying a Fengmi T1 and hopefully they correct the biggest issues. The real solution is an advanced processor like the Lumagen or madVR Envy Pro and if we get enough shekels from the sale of our house, I might invest in one, even with a UST PJ, thinking that this will be the best "set it and forget it" way to go. Then again, I'm not as picky and enjoy SDR content without obsessing over HDR, so I could do without HDR and not miss it that much. Hence the newer Roku DV Streamer?



ViciousXUSMC said:


> I use a Nvidia Shield so I do not think there is any kind of HDR always on mode. It switches depending on the content, but I think the Arcana itself can "spoof" HDR being on so that the T1 stays in HDR mode and you wont have to fiddle around with changing display modes.


Correct - - you can change resolution in the advanced settings but I couldn't get it to work. Just a black screen that didn't come back.


----------



## m0j0

The HDFury device coupled with a device that forces DV (like the Apple TV 4K) works with the streaming apps, in effect making everything DV.


----------



## Brajesh

Yep, but I've resisted Apple TV 4K so far for one reason... no HD/object-based audio passthrough, assuming local UHD rips are important to you. Zidoo Z9X is best for this.


----------



## m0j0

Brajesh said:


> Yep, but I've resisted Apple TV 4K so far for one reason... no HD/object-based audio passthrough, assuming local UHD rips are important to you. Zidoo Z9X is best for this.


Yes, I agree and only use the Apple TV 4k for streaming apps. I use the Zidoo Z9X for local 4k MKV rips.


----------



## lattiboy

Brajesh said:


> Yep, but I've resisted Apple TV 4K so far for one reason... no HD/object-based audio passthrough, assuming local UHD rips are important to you. Zidoo Z9X is best for this.


Doesn’t the separate eARC output address this on the Arcana? I haven’t tested that portion much at all.


----------



## eezrider

eezrider said:


> I see something similar and put it down to light diffraction/scattering occurring in the lens or the lens covering of the projector. It's not the gray border of the chip which others have mentioned, as that would be just a very narrow and focused band around the image.
> 
> I'm using a Vividstorm screen, and one disadvantage of the screen is that there is no black border around top and sides which would help with light leakage and sharpen up the perceived contrast still further.


When I turned on the projector today this spilled light effect was still more noticeable. I stood by the side of the screen and glanced down towards the lens, and it was clear there was a huge amount of scattered light coming up from dust on the glass cover of the lens. I cleaned the glass carefully using a bulb blower for photographic lenses and the soft cloth that was supplied with the T1 and the improvement was dramatic - I could barely see any light halo around the screen. What I did not measure but must also have been happening is that the scattered light was also falling on the screen, reducing the contrast of the image. I had got into the habit of propping a Blu-ray case over the lens area to keep dust off but had forgotten that for the last few days. Clearly keeping dust off the lens cover is critical for these projectors. I wish it had some kind of retracting dust cover, like the one on the Epson 5040. Given the horizontal orientation of the lens it's clearly still more important on a UST projector. I will make something to cover the entire lens recess on the top of the unit.


----------



## Adamgoodapp

Got an update from Fengmi regarding the release of Alpha version:


_Dear Sir,
Thank you for your support of our products!
We are going to push you a Alpha version.Could you please provide us with your Bluetooth mac address?
You can find your Bluetooth mac address follwing the steps below._

Looks like they are ready to send out the Alpha version, will updates as soon as I get it.


----------



## lattiboy

Adamgoodapp said:


> Got an update from Fengmi regarding the release of Alpha version:
> 
> 
> _Dear Sir,
> Thank you for your support of our products!
> We are going to push you a Alpha version.Could you please provide us with your Bluetooth mac address?
> You can find your Bluetooth mac address follwing the steps below._
> 
> Looks like they are ready to send out the Alpha version, will updates as soon as I get it.


Got the same. Here’s to it not bricking our projectors!


----------



## rooterha

Sweet... looking forward to updates. If they can get the firmware to a solid place I will consider swapping the l9g for this. 

Did we ever get firm numbers on game latency?


----------



## Adamgoodapp

rooterha said:


> Sweet... looking forward to updates. If they can get the firmware to a solid place I will consider swapping the l9g for this.
> 
> Did we ever get firm numbers on game latency?


Gregory's test measured 43ms on Game mode.


----------



## rooterha

Adamgoodapp said:


> Gregory's test measured 43ms on Game mode.


Thanks - not bad. Pretty close to the L9G.


----------



## abaintor

lattiboy said:


> Got the same. Here’s to it not bricking our projectors!


Hi, did you also managed to fix the hdmi handshake issue (locked at 30hz after reboot) with the arcana ?
It is supposed to address also this kind of issue 
Thanks


----------



## GaeIta80

Adamgoodapp said:


> Got an update from Fengmi regarding the release of Alpha version:
> 
> 
> _Dear Sir,
> Thank you for your support of our products!
> We are going to push you a Alpha version.Could you please provide us with your Bluetooth mac address?
> You can find your Bluetooth mac address follwing the steps below._
> 
> Looks like they are ready to send out the Alpha version, will updates as soon as I get it.


Yes please, let us know how it is after the fw update and if all these minor issues got solved 🚀


----------



## GaeIta80

eezrider said:


> When I turned on the projector today this spilled light effect was still more noticeable. I stood by the side of the screen and glanced down towards the lens, and it was clear there was a huge amount of scattered light coming up from dust on the glass cover of the lens. I cleaned the glass carefully using a bulb blower for photographic lenses and the soft cloth that was supplied with the T1 and the improvement was dramatic - I could barely see any light halo around the screen. What I did not measure but must also have been happening is that the scattered light was also falling on the screen, reducing the contrast of the image. I had got into the habit of propping a Blu-ray case over the lens area to keep dust off but had forgotten that for the last few days. Clearly keeping dust off the lens cover is critical for these projectors. I wish it had some kind of retracting dust cover, like the one on the Epson 5040. Given the horizontal orientation of the lens it's clearly still more important on a UST projector. I will make something to cover the entire lens recess on the top of the unit.


Hey mate, I have ordered the IKEA Metod/Maximera 80×37 console table to place the T1 inside the top sliding drawer for both aesthetic hiding reason (living room) and practical distance to screen (Vividstorm 110' on its way) and dust protection (mounting a white shelf on the top).

Check it out if that can help or something similar if you need a lower height (I needed around 80cm and this looks perfect)


----------



## AlexM89

My reply to Formovie:

Yesterday I did the test, both with the demo video, both with bluray (Dune - 007) and streaming ... I must say that with these settings:

Bright mode:
Office mode

Advanced -> Dolby Vision:
Dark mode

It seems to work....

While setting a different brightness mode, for example, silent mode or view mode, the color mapping was wrong.

Just to confirm, I retried a test with hdr10+ but it converts it to classic hdr10.

Finally, again yesterday, I ran several checks to determine if EOTF Gamma errors were displayed.
I confirm that in some situations I have found myself having an excessively dark or washed-out image.
The projector did not perform positioning in the correct configuration by itself.

In SDR these are my settings:

bright 47
contrast 48
Saturation 50
Sharpness 10
Tone 50
Custom color
R1000
G1024
B951
Active contrast ON (does not seem to change from ON to OFF)

In *HDR* (various film-to-film and stream-to-stream edits - does not auto-manage EOTF Gamma / Grayscale)

bright 50-56
contrast 48-55
saturation 50/58 
Sharpness 10 (I didn't do a thorough test)
50/52 tone
Custom color
R1000
G1024
B951
Active contrast ON (does not seem to change from ON to OFF)

Thanks as always


----------



## zaselim

Adamgoodapp said:


> Got an update from Fengmi regarding the release of Alpha version:
> 
> 
> _Dear Sir,
> Thank you for your support of our products!
> We are going to push you a Alpha version.Could you please provide us with your Bluetooth mac address?
> You can find your Bluetooth mac address follwing the steps below._
> 
> Looks like they are ready to send out the Alpha version, will updates as soon as I get it.


Best of luck with the alpha update. Lets hope the alpha version tackles the DV/HDR problem.


----------



## AlexM89

zaselim said:


> Best of luck with the alpha update. Lets hope the alpha version tackles the DV/HDR problem.


In DV it seems to have improved a lot ... (only in Dark mode and Office mode)


----------



## zaselim

AlexM89 said:


> In DV it seems to have improved a lot ... (only in Dark mode and Office mode)


These are the only modes DV had right? Did they add picture settings slides in DV?


----------



## AlexM89

No, no additions, rightly DV acts on dynamic metadata.

As for the test modes, I made various crossovers between Office mode / DV dark, bright ... view mode, silent mode etc ...
But the best reproduction, as I wrote above is:

Bright mode:
Office mode

Advanced -> Dolby Vision:
Dark mode

The rest has an unnatural rendering of the images


----------



## zaselim

AlexM89 said:


> No, no additions, rightly DV acts on dynamic metadata.
> 
> As for the test modes, I made various crossovers between Office mode / DV dark, bright ... view mode, silent mode etc ...
> But the best reproduction, as I wrote above is:
> 
> Bright mode:
> Office mode
> 
> Advanced -> Dolby Vision:
> Dark mode
> 
> The rest has an unnatural rendering of the images


Right. Lets hope they release the beta soon as well with more fixes.


----------



## GaeIta80

AlexM89 said:


> No, no additions, rightly DV acts on dynamic metadata.
> 
> As for the test modes, I made various crossovers between Office mode / DV dark, bright ... view mode, silent mode etc ...
> But the best reproduction, as I wrote above is:
> 
> Bright mode:
> Office mode
> 
> Advanced -> Dolby Vision:
> Dark mode
> 
> The rest has an unnatural rendering of the images


To be honest I am very happy with Office/Dark DV mode across all the content seen. No pink and solid colour saturation and nice mapping.

Also, both SDR and HDR content look good with Greg's settings...just increasing the brightness a bit more on HDR when and if needed.

Why do you put sharpness to 0? Greg's left it to 50 I guess

Ciao!


----------



## AlexM89

zaselim said:


> Right. Lets hope they release the beta soon as well with more fixes.


I'm pressing them


----------



## AlexM89

GaeIta80 said:


> To be honest I am very happy with Office/Dark DV mode across all the content seen. No pink and solid colour saturation and nice mapping.
> 
> Also, both SDR and HDR content look good with Greg's settings...just increasing the brightness a bit more on HDR when and if needed.
> 
> Why do you put sharpness to 0? Greg's left it to 50 I guess
> 
> Ciao!



I have not formally investigated the problem of sharpness, I set it to 10 ... I will also do some tests to see if and how the image changes ....

I also communicated to Formovie that the automatic management of the EOTF Range must take place automatically based on the content played (HDR) and not that for each film I have to change the parameters


----------



## lattiboy

AlexM89 said:


> No, no additions, rightly DV acts on dynamic metadata.
> 
> As for the test modes, I made various crossovers between Office mode / DV dark, bright ... view mode, silent mode etc ...
> But the best reproduction, as I wrote above is:
> 
> Bright mode:
> Office mode
> 
> Advanced -> Dolby Vision:
> Dark mode
> 
> The rest has an unnatural rendering of the images


Can I ask if you were promoted for an update? I got the same email from them, but I haven’t received anything yet. Did a network check and checked software version, but nothing available.


----------



## zaselim

AlexM89 said:


> I'm pressing them


Yeah keeping pressing on it lol


----------



## lattiboy

Anybody else get an update yet? I just checked and still nothing on my T1. I was told it would be pushed to me.


----------



## eezrider

lattiboy said:


> Anybody else get an update yet? I just checked and still nothing on my T1. I was told it would be pushed to me.


Same position, waiting for the update to be pushed. @AlexM89, please could you confirm your alpha version number, will be interesting to see if we get same.


----------



## Adamgoodapp

I still have not got the update, lets wait for Monday.


----------



## CabbageMan

rooterha said:


> Thanks - not bad. Pretty close to the L9G.


Yeah, I am not a competitive gamer or anything but I don't have any issues with the input lag.


----------



## Ricoflashback

What did you end up keeping over the T1? And why?


----------



## Brajesh

Wemax A300, paired with HDFury VRROOM. Three main reasons: 3D (and not needing to get a separate PJ for it), preferred the DV (LLDV) handling by HDFury (over T1's current rendering), and better overall focus/uniformity. But, really liked the T1 as well for its richer colors.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Brajesh said:


> Wemax A300, paired with HDFury VRROOM. Three main reasons: 3D (and not needing to get a separate PJ for it), preferred the DV (LLDV) handling by HDFury (over T1's current rendering), and better overall focus/uniformity. But, really liked the T1 as well for its richer colors.


That's interesting as the A300 is listed with a higher contrast ratio (4000 to 1 versus 3000 to 1) compared to the Fengmi T1. Does it also have the removal of gas and mist the other DLP's have without ALPD technology? 3D is a nice benefit. I wouldn't be using the HDFury workaround so how is the picture without it? Thanks.


----------



## tovaxxx

AwolVision very interesting but no DolbyVision. 107% Rec.2020


----------



## humax

tovaxxx said:


> AwolVision very interesting but no DolbyVision. 107% Rec.2020



I see nowhere the ALPD logo, so the light engine must be similar to the JMGO U2. Dynamic contrast number, so actual number most likely lower than ALPD module. No DV would be OK a few months back, but it is not now. The 3500 lumens model might be an option for bright living rooms. The price should also be lower. Other than that, it seems like a viable alternative to other tri-lasers, if it actually hits decent contrast numbers and 107% Rec.2020 on a test bench.


----------



## Ricoflashback

humax said:


> I see nowhere the ALPD logo, so the light engine must be similar to the JMGO U2. Dynamic contrast number, so actual number most likely lower than ALPD module. No DV would be OK a few months back, but it is not now. The 3500 lumens model might be an option for bright living rooms. The price should also be lower. Other than that, it seems a viable alternative to other tri-lasers, if it actually hits decent contrast numbers and 107% Rec.2020 on a test bench.


If it still has the gas, mist and fog of other UST DLP Projectors - - I'll pass. I'll deal with the red issues, lack of CMS and everything else while enjoying the contrast and colors of the T1. I guess it's all personal preference.


----------



## Brajesh

Ricoflashback said:


> That's interesting as the A300 is listed with a higher contrast ratio (4000 to 1 versus 3000 to 1) compared to the Fengmi T1. Does it also have the removal of gas and mist the other DLP's have without ALPD technology? 3D is a nice benefit. I wouldn't be using the HDFury workaround so how is the picture without it? Thanks.


In actual use, subjectively, found contrast between A300 and T1 similar. Gas and mist? Do you mean blur-like artifacts? Only noticed this with VAVA Chroma (don't know if they've fixed it). Without HDFury, I'd go with T1 or Xiaomi C2 to enjoy DV.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Brajesh said:


> In actual use, subjectively, found contrast between A300 and T1 similar. Gas and mist? Do you mean blur-like artifacts? Only noticed this with VAVA Chroma (don't know if they've fixed it). Without HDFury, I'd go with T1 or Xiaomi C2 to enjoy DV.


Gas and mist meaning a definite haze that is quite visible. The screenshots of the T1 compared to other non ALPD projectors really show the difference, IMHO.


----------



## Maqnvm7

Brajesh said:


> In actual use, subjectively, found contrast between A300 and T1 similar. Gas and mist? Do you mean blur-like artifacts? Only noticed this with VAVA Chroma (don't know if they've fixed it). Without HDFury, I'd go with T1 or Xiaomi C2 to enjoy DV.


How does the HDFury improve the A300 picture quality? LLDV?


----------



## Brajesh

Yes, and consistency & accuracy of the picture (whether native DV or really any video forced into LLDV w/my Zidoo Z9X) w/preset modes as is (movie mode specifically) on A300.


----------



## abaintor

Brajesh said:


> Yes, and consistency & accuracy of the picture (whether native DV or really any video forced into LLDV w/my Zidoo Z9X) w/preset modes as is (movie mode specifically) on A300.


The wemax had been tested by Gregory and it appeared that contrast/colors.. were below its brothers (xiaomi 4k and fengmi)


Test Wemax A300 4K : l’avis de Grégory – – Le Blog de PHC –



So except for 3D I don’t see the interest of investing in this model against the new models. Unless you already own one and wait for better


----------



## shanedowley

humax said:


> I see nowhere the ALPD logo, so the light engine must be similar to the JMGO U2. Dynamic contrast number, so actual number most likely lower than ALPD module. No DV would be OK a few months back, but it is not now. The 3500 lumens model might be an option for bright living rooms. The price should also be lower. Other than that, it seems like a viable alternative to other tri-lasers, if it actually hits decent contrast numbers and 107% Rec.2020 on a test bench.


Not bad overall. But not a stitch on the Appotronics ALPD devices when it comes to native contrast. Possibly similar to the Samsung LSP9T in that and other PQ respects.









AWOL Vision - Projector Screen | Shop by Brand - Projection Screen


AWOL Vision




www.projectorscreen.com


----------



## humax

shanedowley said:


> Not bad overall. But not a stitch on the Apptonics ALPD devices when it comes to native contrast. Possibly similar to the Samsung LSP9T in that and other PQ respects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AWOL Vision - Projector Screen | Shop by Brand - Projection Screen
> 
> 
> AWOL Vision
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.projectorscreen.com



You are right. This projector seems to do a lot of things correctly image-wise, especially if it gets software-upgraded to DV. Full CMS, accurate colors and proper tone mapping, great ANSI contrast. However, it is more expensive than the T1 and it has a little more than 1/3 of its on/off contrast, not to mention the B&W sound system. There is not really much you can do on a non-ALPD projector in terms of contrast. You can get an 0.4 ALR to cut down its brightness as possible or offer the option to dim the laser power or lastly buy the lower brightness version with a slightly improved contrast, which in turn will mess up your daylight viewing. That's about it, basically.

As for the T1, it is quite clear by now, it is in need of an CMS. Perhaps even gamma presets to allow for handling of dark HDR material. Since a full CMS has not materialized for any ALPD model so far, I would not hold my breath it will happen anytime soon. It seems that Fengmi will only release the global version of the T1 in the upcoming months and there will probably be a Xiaomi version of the T1 somewhere down the line with more accurate colors/improved software. Rec.2020 coverage must also be improved and fall in line with other tri-lasers. I really hope someone from Xiaomi/Fengmi is monitoring this thread.


----------



## jakechoy

Just found a new on streaming 4K HDR10 movie with very dark scenes. Can someone test it on the T1?

Antlers streaming on HBOMax and Disney Plus. The entire film for me was very dark on the Xiaomi C2; really pushes the contrast capabilities to see the details.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Brajesh said:


> Wemax A300, paired with HDFury VRROOM. Three main reasons: 3D (and not needing to get a separate PJ for it), preferred the DV (LLDV) handling by HDFury (over T1's current rendering), and better overall focus/uniformity. But, really liked the T1 as well for its richer colors.


So the one thing I dont like about HDFury is not much guidance on the products, its really hard to tell the difference between what the Vertex, Arcana, VRROOM, and Diva can do.
If I get one I kind of want to get the VRROOM just to be "safe" but so far on most accounts its seems just the Arcana can do everything we are actually trying to do with the tone mapping, and EDID spoofing.

Also guides/documentation for what each setting does (especially the manual advanced parameters) is pretty much nonexistent. 

Once we can define WHAT product we need, and if there are any benefits to buying higher up the line, it might be possible we organize a group buy to further save.


----------



## shanedowley

ViciousXUSMC said:


> So the one thing I dont like about HDFury is not much guidance on the products, its really hard to tell the difference between what the Vertex, Arcana, VRROOM, and Diva can do.
> If I get one I kind of want to get the VRROOM just to be "safe" but so far on most accounts its seems just the Arcana can do everything we are actually trying to do with the tone mapping, and EDID spoofing.
> 
> Also guides/documentation for what each setting does (especially the manual advanced parameters) is pretty much nonexistent.
> 
> Once we can define WHAT product we need, and if there are any benefits to buying higher up the line, it might be possible we organize a group buy to further save.


Yes, HD Fury published documentation is notoriously bad. But they have excellent customer & technical support on their AVSForum owners threads. For example:








HDFury Vertex - Owners thread


As per the ir codes released in the latest firmware. These are the codes. vertex_hdrcustomoff: vertex_hdrcustomoff: NEC 0x70 0x2d 0000 006e 0000 0022 0156 00ab 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 003f 0015 003f 0015 003f 0015 0015 0015 003f 0015 003f 0015 003f 0015 003f 0015 0015 0015...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## m0j0

So, what is the AWOL 3500 lumen model going to cost roughly? In the 3-4k range?


----------



## GaeIta80

Hey guys, just sharing a solution I might have found with an IKEA cabinet (Metod/Maximera) while waiting for my Vividstorm UST screen.

Having a little 3 years old boy and a fussy gf, it was the only way to make it work! 

Will just finish it up with a white top cover and fixing the cabinet to the wall 

P.s. I noticed that bringing down Saturation to 44 with Greg's settings gives a great balance across both SDR and HDR content


----------



## Brajesh

Before, HDFury devices used to be known really mostly for resolving HDMI issues, but now thanks to LLDV hackery, they've gotten a whole lot of attention. Do agree that they could make settings and options in their web UI more intuitive, if not simpler.


----------



## tovaxxx

Setup is ready except for the 120" Vividstorm. In the upper board comes an opening for the laser.


----------



## zaselim

Guys how is the build quality of the projector and heating?
I read some owners' comments on face book about their Xiaomi/Fengmi unit getting burned or dead within a year or so. How is/was your (who had previous models from xiaomi/fengmi) experience so far.


----------



## Knolly

Can anyone school me on real life brightness vs all of these Lumens numbers manufacturers quote? I've had a Wemax A300 for years that has been an absolute tank. I've even tried to replace it with a Sony Premiere, Hisense 100L5F1, and Optoma P1, but in the end they all basically offered the same brightness and picture quality (to my untrained eye) as the A300 but in a MUCH larger package.

I'm looking for an excuse to upgrade because I'm a nerd who likes new things. Is the T1 the current real-world brightest UST projector? Even looking at claimed ANSI lumens, Fengmi says the Cinema 4K MAX is 4500 ANSI lumens vs 2800 on the T1 vs the 2000 on the A300.

Also I don't know if it's actually made by Fengmi or not, but the Formovie telescopic stand for the T1 is rad. Years ago when I built my entire UST setup my goal was to have it be completely hidden, complete with a Vividstorm screen mounted to the rear of my media center. It's worked well but I kept thinking of improvements to allow for larger images. It always seemed like there was a lot of cool UST-specific furniture in Asian markets but glad to see some of it is become more easily available globally.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## humax

Knolly said:


> Is the T1 the current real-world brightest UST projector?



Xiaomi Wemax Appotronics D30 4K Laser TV Projector Review (xiaomitoday.com) 

No, that would still be the blue laser ALPD 3.0 12500 lumens/400nit Wemax D30 with a 1500:1 contrast ratio. It is probably the best UST choice for daylight viewing and an LCD TV-like image.

Appotronics Wemax D30 with VividStorm S PRO 120", Playing YouTube - YouTube


----------



## humax

GaeIta80 said:


> Hey guys, just sharing a solution I might have found with an IKEA cabinet (Metod/Maximera) while waiting for my Vividstorm UST screen.



Simple, but effective. Well done!


----------



## humax

m0j0 said:


> So, what is the AWOL 3500 lumen model going to cost roughly? In the 3-4k range?



UST PROJECTORS – AWOL Vision

Although it seems to get most things right, the price is quite high for an average contrast model.


----------



## rooterha

humax said:


> UST PROJECTORS – AWOL Vision
> 
> Although it seems to get most things right, the price is quite high for an average contrast model.


Not really - you get a 2 year warranty in the US and it's supposed to have DV by launch. We can compare it to the Chinese projectors when they are providing US sales/support. Until then it's just not the same. Not everyone has the patience for a great projector with janky software and issues that may or may not get updated.


----------



## humax

rooterha said:


> Not really - you get a 2 year warranty in the US and it's supposed to have DV by launch. We can compare it to the Chinese projectors when they are providing US sales/support. Until then it's just not the same. Not everyone has the patience for a great projector with janky software and issues that may or may not get updated.



All valid points, if picture quality is not your top priority. All DLP projectors, even cheap ones, look good with bright or mixed content, but are lacking in dark scenes. The AWOL is not an exception. 3500 lumens and 1120:1 contrast will produce a hazy, foggy image with an elevated black floor in low-light scenes no matter what you do. It is pure math and there is no getting around it. You choose warranty and support, I choose to risk with no real support for a better contrast. Both valid choices. My current UST (Philips Screeneo 2510) ) has full support in my country. It has given me many hours of joy for the past six years. Hell, I love the bloody thing! However, I would be dishonest, if I said it is perfect and I am not frustrated, when a dark scene comes up on screen and this is a projector with the 0.65" dmd and a quoted 2000:1 contrast ratio. The 0.47" chip is even worse and only the ALPD module right now makes it a decent performer. I will be the first one to cheer, if this changes. We need more high contrast DLP engines.


----------



## Tanizhq

I am watching Pirates of the Caribbean: At Worlds End in Dolby Vision on the T1. Every scene seems to have a very high blue/green tinge to it You can notice it instantly in the opening scene where all the light appears very blue.

Can anyone test it out too to let me know if it’s an issue with the movie or with the projector. Not noticed any red push at all.

Tried it in View/Office mode as well as Bright/Dark DV mode


----------



## Maqnvm7

Tanizhq said:


> I am watching Pirates of the Caribbean: At Worlds End in Dolby Vision on the T1. Every scene seems to have a very high blue/green tinge to it You can notice it instantly in the opening scene where all the light appears very blue.
> 
> Can anyone test it out too to let me know if it’s an issue with the movie or with the projector. Not noticed any red push at all.
> 
> Tried it in View/Office mode as well as Bright/Dark DV mode


Just watched the first few minutes of it on my OLED. Even with the warmest picture setting the whole picture still has a blue tint. So I think it is the movie.


----------



## rjyap

Just got my T1 yesterday. Done a quick and simple setup using my existing 114" 1.0 unity gain Carada Screen. As I only use HTPC with madVR, I try a few quick settings to check out the color and contrast. By setting to SDR output using Gregory SDR custom settings (but I set the sharpness to 10 and below, the default 50 is over sharpening for me), I try out the option display is calibrated to bt 709, DCI-P3 and Rec2020. BT 709 give a oversaturated red skin tone, DCI-P3 looks just right and Rec2020 become greenish skin tone. So far I like the PQ with SDR output using DCI-P3 with gamma 2.2 in madVR settings. I'm coming from an old Optoma HD8300 so the color and brightness pop is the first thing that I notice. Definitely an upgrade if you come from DC3 0.66" 1080p projector. I'll calibrate the projector soon using i1Pro and i1 DisplayPro to generate 3D LUT. But in the meantime, there's lots of 4K movie I need to rewatch.


----------



## Maqnvm7

rjyap said:


> Just got my T1 yesterday. Done a quick and simple setup using my existing 114" 1.0 unity gain Carada Screen. As I only use HTPC with madVR, I try a few quick settings to check out the color and contrast. By setting to SDR output using Gregory SDR custom settings (but I set the sharpness to 10 and below, the default 50 is over sharpening for me), I try out the option display is calibrated to bt 709, DCI-P3 and Rec2020. BT 709 give a oversaturated red skin tone, DCI-P3 looks just right and Rec2020 become greenish skin tone. So far I like the PQ with SDR output using DCI-P3 with gamma 2.2 in madVR settings. I'm coming from an old Optoma HD8300 so the color and brightness pop is the first thing that I notice. Definitely an upgrade if you come from DC3 0.66" 1080p projector. I'll calibrate the projector soon using i1Pro and i1 DisplayPro to generate 3D LUT. But in the meantime, there's lots of 4K movie I need to rewatch.


Why SDR and not HDR?


----------



## rjyap

Maqnvm7 said:


> Why SDR and not HDR?


I need more time to tweak in HDR mode as I’m not sure the behavior of HDR mapping for T1. Plus color looks a bit off and might need 3D LUT profile to correct.
Here’s the photo taken directly from iPhone 12 and only tweak the warm color to match what I see on screen. The skin tone is quite natural and no obvious red tint issue using MadVR.

Edit: when I look at the photo attached, it seems to be slightly more greenish compare to the photo I saved and adjusted on iPhone12. I suspect it’s due to the format is not HDR thus lost some of the color warm and pop. Color and skin tone is better on the original HEIF file. 

Source: Awaken 4K UHD.


----------



## rjyap

One more photo on skin tone. I would said no worry on reddish skin tone if using HTPC and madVR. This time I only adjust the warmth to around -40 which look quite close to the screen. Previous photo adjust to -50 which looks a bit greenish when uploaded


----------



## lattiboy

rjyap said:


> View attachment 3242912
> 
> 
> 
> I need more time to tweak in HDR mode as I’m not sure the behavior of HDR mapping for T1. Plus color looks a bit off and might need 3D LUT profile to correct.
> Here’s the photo taken directly from iPhone 12 and only tweak the warm color to match what I see on screen. The skin tone is quite natural and no obvious red tint issue using MadVR.
> 
> Edit: when I look at the photo attached, it seems to be slightly more greenish compare to the photo I saved and adjusted on iPhone12. I suspect it’s due to the format is not HDR thus lost some of the color warm and pop. Color and skin tone is better on the original HEIF file.
> 
> Source: Awaken 4K UHD.


If you’d like to see this same shot with Dolby Vision processing forced on with the T1. Turns out her eyes are green!


----------



## rjyap

lattiboy said:


> If you’d like to see this same shot with Dolby Vision processing forced on with the T1. Turns out her eyes are green!
> 
> View attachment 3242931


From what I can see, Dolby Vision version tends to shift the color temp lower compare to HDR version. Which give it more reddish color. I can try to adjust the color temp if it look like Dolby Vision version.


----------



## GaeIta80

lattiboy said:


> If you’d like to see this same shot with Dolby Vision processing forced on with the T1. Turns out her eyes are green!
> 
> View attachment 3242931


This was View or Office/Dark DV?


----------



## rjyap

So here’s another tweak done to color temp to make it more “Dolby vision” like color. Gamma been modified to slightly lift shadow details. The bottom photo is using Gregory custom profile, upper is tweak for warmer color.


----------



## GaeIta80

rjyap said:


> So here’s another tweak done to color temp to make it more “Dolby vision” like color. Gamma been modified to slightly lift shadow details. The bottom photo is using Gregory custom profile, upper is tweak for warmer color.
> 
> View attachment 3242958
> 
> View attachment 3242959


Sorry for my ignorance, what is Madvr? A software or an external device like FuryHD Arcana?


----------



## rjyap

GaeIta80 said:


> Sorry for my ignorance, what is Madvr? A software or an external device like FuryHD Arcana?


It's dynamic tone mapping software for PC. Similar software is implemented in MadVR ENVY which cost around USD 7k to USD 15k dedicated processor. You can use it to tweak, upscale, dynamic tone map and color mapping.


----------



## abaintor

The problem is that madvr is unable to process dolby vision signal, so you loose dynamic metadata, unless a genius manages to reverse engineer dolby vision encoding


----------



## rjyap

abaintor said:


> The problem is that madvr is unable to process dolby vision signal, so you loose dynamic metadata, unless a genius manages to reverse engineer dolby vision encoding


Yep. But madVR is dynamic tone mapping by analyzing scene by scene so it's something quite similar to Dolby Vision. Based on the photo capture, I would prefer madVR processing over T1 native Dolby Vision color profile. It just feel more natural than over the top color. Frankly speaking if you watch mostly streaming movie, then madVR is a no go. I mostly prefer UHD disc version for highest bitrate and better Atmos audio.


----------



## tnaik4

rjyap said:


> Yep. But madVR is dynamic tone mapping by analyzing scene by scene so it's something quite similar to Dolby Vision. Based on the photo capture, I would prefer madVR processing over T1 native Dolby Vision color profile. It just feel more natural than over the top color. Frankly speaking if you watch mostly streaming movie, then madVR is a no go. I mostly prefer UHD disc version for highest bitrate and better Atmos audio.


Absolutely!!! 
Once u do a 3dlut ull have proper colors accross all content u watch through MadVR.
Keep in mind u need a 2.2 target gamma for 3dlut with MadVR.
Thats what i do and the results are stunning.


----------



## Ricoflashback

tnaik4 said:


> Absolutely!!!
> Once u do a 3dlut ull have proper colors accross all content u watch through MadVR.
> Keep in mind u need a 2.2 target gamma for 3dlut with MadVR.
> Thats what i do and the results are stunning.


The HTPC madVR requires a capable PC and some extensive setup and knowledge. The standalone madVR Envy Pro processor is the automated “set it and forget it” solution that can also adjust for subtitles in a scope screen and a host of other benefits like upscaling with minimal picture quality loss. At $7K or more, it’s the Rolls Royce of processing, IMHO, and is both hardware and software upgradable. It’s the only way I see that you could really use a scope screen effectively with streaming and subtitles. If you’re getting great results with Dynamic Tone Mapping, frame by frame, with a disc and HTPC madVR, I imagine the full blown madVR Envy Pro would be spectacular with the Fengmi T1 ( or any other projector) and open up the scope screen option for all content - streaming, cable/satellite or disc.


----------



## Maqnvm7

rjyap said:


> So here’s another tweak done to color temp to make it more “Dolby vision” like color. Gamma been modified to slightly lift shadow details. The bottom photo is using Gregory custom profile, upper is tweak for warmer color.
> 
> View attachment 3242958
> 
> View attachment 3242959


This is a perfect example of how a lot of this is purely about personal preference. I for one think this looks way too bland compared to the DV shot. Also the shadow details are much worse. But it‘s cool to see that this projector caters to almost all preferences though! I think that‘s great.


----------



## zaselim

rjyap said:


> Yep. But madVR is dynamic tone mapping by analyzing scene by scene so it's something quite similar to Dolby Vision. Based on the photo capture, I would prefer madVR processing over T1 native Dolby Vision color profile. It just feel more natural than over the top color. Frankly speaking if you watch mostly streaming movie, then madVR is a no go. I mostly prefer UHD disc version for highest bitrate and better Atmos audio.


So i am also a PC user and watch movies on it (because of higher/original bit rates) using MPC and Blu-Ray Drive. And if I do that then i don't have wait for the firmware update and can order (buy) the projector right now. Right?


----------



## Maqnvm7

zaselim said:


> So i am also a PC user and watch movies on it (because of higher/original bit rates) using MPC and Blu-Ray Drive. And if I do that then i don't have wait for the firmware update and can order (buy) the projector right now. Right?


PCs cant output Dolby Vision, so yeah.


----------



## eezrider

Maqnvm7 said:


> PCs cant output Dolby Vision, so yeah.


You don't have to wait for the firmware update anyway as it will be pushed to your projector when available.

I think the girl's face is likely an example of the red push that has been talked about. I'd rather that was tweaked than lose the other dynamics in the DV image. As was mentioned, the shadow detail in the madvr image has been lost. Compare the background in the images and the girl's hair under her hood.


----------



## zaselim

Maqnvm7 said:


> PCs cant output Dolby Vision, so yeah.


I was talking about the HDR tone mapping, If we're getting the new firmware with the fix of whatever issue DV has to the current T1 model as well so i think its good.
I don't have any streaming device so i don't care about DV that much as long as it has a good hdr capability and if MPC with madVR can do that on the PC then i am good. As long as I can get a great picture out of it then I'll be super happy.
And as far i know by reading the posts here in this thread, DV red tint issue is with when watching through hdmi signal and it doesn't happen when playing DV content from usb drive. If that is true then I can rip a bluray(DV) into mkv/mp4 format with original bitrates and then play through usb drive/hdd.
My only concern right is the build quality of the projector and how it manages heat(exhaustion). Can someone here give me any info on that? I asked that once before few days ago but didn't get any reply.


----------



## abaintor

You won’t have red tint issue in dolby vision with a hdfury. I do advise hdfury over madvr
Indeed It is a matter of preferences after all but a PC is never a good solution IMHO : noisy, buggy, not plug and play, not compatible with streaming services.
Your kids and wife won’t be able to figure out how to navigate through the movie library and launch a movie.
However as a geek I use both and I will be interested to get my hand on the 3D lut table for the T1 to play with madvr.
But madvr can’t compete with real dolby vision as it simulates the dynamic range instead of applying it. You should watch a real dv movie (from a good mastered bluray 4k) to realize this (I do see the difference on my oled tv). For non dv projectors (jvc) it was justified but it will be more and more useless with native dv support. Red tint/bad tone mapping appart…


----------



## lattiboy

GaeIta80 said:


> This was View or Office/Dark DV?


Probably view / dark. This was a while back.


----------



## lattiboy

Has anybody else gotten a firmware update? So far it’s just the one person as far as I can tell.


----------



## zaselim

abaintor said:


> You won’t have red tint issue in dolby vision with a hdfury. I do advise hdfury over madvr
> Indeed It is a matter of preferences after all but a PC is never a good solution IMHO : noisy, buggy, not plug and play, not compatible with streaming services.
> Your kids and wife won’t be able to figure out how to navigate through the movie library and launch a movie.
> However as a geek I use both and I will be interested to get my hand on the 3D lut table for the T1 to play with madvr.
> But madvr can’t compete with real dolby vision as it simulates the dynamic range instead of applying it. You should watch a real dv movie (from a good mastered bluray 4k) to realize this (I do see the difference on my oled tv). For non dv projectors (jvc) it was justified but it will be more and more useless with native dv support. Red tint/bad tone mapping appart…


Which version of HDFury? There are multiple options. Can you refer one to me.





Shop | HDFury.com | Connect and Fix everything in HDMI







hdfury.com


----------



## m0j0

zaselim said:


> Which version of HDFury? There are multiple options. Can you refer one to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shop | HDFury.com | Connect and Fix everything in HDMI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hdfury.com


I have the Vertex2 and recommend it highly!


----------



## zaselim

m0j0 said:


> I have the Vertex2 and recommend it highly!


What is the difference between Vertex2 and Arcana [ 4K Arcana 18Gbps | HDFury.com | Connect and Fix everything in HDMI ]. The price different is around half the price.
In tech specs it has about the same feature aside from 4/3 input/output.


----------



## m0j0

zaselim said:


> What is the difference between Vertex2 and Arcana [ 4K Arcana 18Gbps | HDFury.com | Connect and Fix everything in HDMI ]. The price different is around half the price.
> In features it has about the same feature.


I don't know feature by feature, but I do know if you want the full set of capabilities then the Vertex2 or above is what you want. There are some things you can do with the Arcana but it can't change some of the custom stuff (so you can use EDID 5 or 10 but don't have the full set of custom EDID features). That is what I seem to recall. You could ask the HDFury guys on their page.


----------



## zaselim

m0j0 said:


> I don't know feature by feature, but I do know if you want the full set of capabilities then the Vertex2 or above is what you want. There are some things you can do with the Arcana but it can't change some of the custom stuff (so you can use EDID 5 or 10 but don't have the full set of custom EDID features). That is what I seem to recall. You could ask the HDFury guys on their page.


right, thanks.


----------



## eezrider

Has anyone else got an update yet? I provided my Bluetooth mac address as requested. I wonder if they are tweaking the release some more based on the initial feedback that non-DV content was sub-optimal.


----------



## GaeIta80

lattiboy said:


> Probably view / dark. This was a while back.


Tried with office/dark and looks great 👍


----------



## abaintor

m0j0 said:


> I have the Vertex2 and recommend it highly!


Same here, besides it has a web interface, easier to set up


----------



## shanedowley

abaintor said:


> Same here, besides it has a web interface, easier to set up


Likewise. I have the Vertex2 and love it. It’s essentially a full EDID table, HDR metadata and DV data block custom editor. Along with HDMI switching, scaling, audio separation and CEC and ARC/eARC controls. It gives you a huge level of customisation and control for pretty much any scenario. At first - for me anyway - the amount of possible customisation was a little bewildering. But after a bit of use I learned the hang of it and now have it as I want. It’s reliable and works silently in the background between the source devices and display with the wife and kids unaware it’s even there.


----------



## lattiboy

Has anybody else gotten a firmware update? So far it’s just the one person


shanedowley said:


> Likewise. I have the Vertex2 and love it. It’s essentially a full EDID table, HDR metadata and DV data block custom editor. Along with HDMI switching, scaling, audio separation and CEC and ARC/eARC controls. It gives you a huge level of customisation and control for pretty much any scenario. At first - for me anyway - the amount of possible customisation was a little bewildering. But after a bit of use I learned the hang of it and have now it as I want. It’s reliable and works silently in the background between the source devices and display with the wife and kids unaware it’s even there.


To confirm, you have been able to get Dolby Vision and HDR to display correctly without a color issues or low brightness on the T1? I haven’t seen confirmation of that anywhere else.

I have the Arcana, but it basically just fakes DV and is not as good.


----------



## rjyap

zaselim said:


> So i am also a PC user and watch movies on it (because of higher/original bit rates) using MPC and Blu-Ray Drive. And if I do that then i don't have wait for the firmware update and can order (buy) the projector right now. Right?


Yes. So far I don't see any jarring issue with the projector using pc as a source with MadVR as DTM solution. Plus the white is so bright that I need to set the subtitles white color at 60%.


----------



## rjyap

Maqnvm7 said:


> This is a perfect example of how a lot of this is purely about personal preference. I for one think this looks way too bland compared to the DV shot. Also the shadow details are much worse. But it‘s cool to see that this projector caters to almost all preferences though! I think that‘s great.


I can assure you the shadow details is better on screen. Settings for contrast and brightness for absolute black at 16 and white at 235 is 50 based on greyscale test pattern. If you adjust brightness below 50, you can see it crush black and above 50 will elevate black floor. Same as contrast, above 50 will crush white.


----------



## rjyap

Maqnvm7 said:


> This is a perfect example of how a lot of this is purely about personal preference. I for one think this looks way too bland compared to the DV shot. Also the shadow details are much worse. But it‘s cool to see that this projector caters to almost all preferences though! I think that‘s great.


Yep. Totally agree it's personal preference. Some like striking color vs natural. It's like the first time when I learn how to calibrate TV and projector to D65 color temp and gamma 2.2, the white look yellowish and picture look a bit bland compare to bluish default color temp. But the more you watch, you will start to appreciate how natural the skin tone and scene looks like. Also, all this photo comparison will give you approximate color. If you watch the projector in person, the color is more striking as the webpage photo can only display Rec 709 color space. Also I forgot to touch the red sparkle issue. When I watch netflix content especially the N logo, it really hit you with a very striking red and I can observed slight sparkle (I'm using gain 1 white screen). But during normal movie, I don't observed any red sparkle so personally is a non issue.


----------



## zaselim

rjyap said:


> Yes. So far I don't see any jarring issue with the projector using pc as a source with MadVR as DTM solution. Plus the white is so bright that I need to set the subtitles white color at 60%.


Right, Thanks.
How's the build quality of the projector and how's the heat flow. Does it get hot or warm enough to need a separate cooler for it?


----------



## rjyap

zaselim said:


> Right, Thanks.
> How's the build quality of the projector and how's the heat flow. Does it get hot or warm enough to need a separate cooler for it?


Will check the temp next time. As for build quality, it's very good and I would said better casing than those cheap plasticky below USD 2k projector from big brand.


----------



## zaselim

rjyap said:


> Will check the temp next time. As for build quality, it's very good and I would said better casing than those cheap plasticky below USD 2k projector from big brand.


So nice build overall, Thanks.
When ever you get the time to check temps, pls do share it here.
Thanks again. Will you also be sharing your final settings here when you done experimenting with them and get settled with?


----------



## Malaveae

This user is showing the T1 but the colors are way to off unrealistic for my point of view. Specially some scene the sky and sea are too "blueish" and neon greens.




Center picture is a screenshot of the YouTube video of t1(not the real T1) the others is an LCD monitor and LED TV, screenshot as well.







I don’t know if he is using the same source below:





Is this something can be corrected by T1 picture modes, or ext hw or HTPC Sw, firmware? Or is just YouTube or internet image compression? Or is a matter of taste, saturated colors vs realistic tones?


----------



## shanedowley

lattiboy said:


> Has anybody else gotten a firmware update? So far it’s just the one person
> 
> 
> To confirm, you have been able to get Dolby Vision and HDR to display correctly without a color issues or low brightness on the T1? I haven’t seen confirmation of that anywhere else.
> 
> I have the Arcana, but it basically just fakes DV and is not as good.


I decided against getting the T1 as I had concerns about its colour accuracy and the need to manually adjust luminance and gamma between SDR and HDR content. I went for the Xiaomi C2 instead. As I’ve posted earlier in this thread, I have found the performance I can get out of the C2’s native DV and LLDV source-led DV (using the Vertex2) from the Apple TV and Panasonic UB9000 to be about the same — both excellent.


----------



## Demetri Zuev

While browsing around AliExpress I stumbled upon this motorized UST stand that seems to be specifically designed for T1, A300, Xiaomi C2.



https://aliexpress.ru/item/1005001971119592.html?spm=a2g2w.productlist.0.0.4a735b2cRoWjPU&sku_id=12000018272836180



But is teems that it is also compatible with other UST, just without the "screw in" functionality






Thought I'd share since I've been trying to wrap my head around the best way to achieve a perfect distance from the screen in my room


----------



## jakechoy

Demetri Zuev said:


> While browsing around AliExpress I stumbled upon this motorized UST stand that seems to be specifically designed for T1, A300, Xiaomi C2.
> 
> 
> 
> https://aliexpress.ru/item/1005001971119592.html?spm=a2g2w.productlist.0.0.4a735b2cRoWjPU&sku_id=12000018272836180
> 
> 
> 
> But is teems that it is also compatible with other UST, just without the "screw in" functionality
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thought I'd share since I've been trying to wrap my head around the best way to achieve a perfect distance from the screen in my room


I already created a separate thread to collate all the UST cabinets we can find:









Cabinets and Consoles for UST Projectors


Was reading in the UST threads about built-in cabinets and IKEA hacks - decided to start this thread to share off the shelf cabinets that are shipped globally. These are listed on ali and lazada sites with free international shipping. Inligent Laser Stone Plate Projection TV Cabinet...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## rjyap

zaselim said:


> So nice build overall, Thanks.
> When ever you get the time to check temps, pls do share it here.
> Thanks again. Will you also be sharing your final settings here when you done experimenting with them and get settled with?


Sure once I done the measurement and tuning. Please note that the measurement is done against my projector screen which is neutral white. If your screen is not neutral, then it will skew the color.


----------



## Tanizhq

I’m watching a couple shows in Dolby Vision on the projector. The subtitles change colour so much depending on the scene, from Bright White to a Dim Grey. It doesn’t matter what mode I put it in, View/Office/Night or Bright/Dark.

Is this normal behaviour?

Specifically episode 1 of Ted Lasso on Apple TV


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Tanizhq said:


> I’m watching a couple shows in Dolby Vision on the projector. The subtitles change colour so much depending on the scene, from Bright White to a Dim Grey. It doesn’t matter what mode I put it in, View/Office/Night or Bright/Dark.
> 
> Is this normal behaviour?
> 
> Specifically episode 1 of Ted Lasso on Apple TV


Same thats the dynamic data, my TV did that too, its kind of annoying.
I have been watching "all of us our dead" in DV and have not seen any real issues with brightness or red push. Looks great.
Still thinking of getting a HDFury just to extract the maximum benefit from the machine, but not yet sure wich to get. 

I have seen multiple reports that the Arcana is all you need to fix everything, the Vertex seems to maybe be a bit more feature packed but perhaps features not needed, and of course the VRROOM is the only one that is rated for the higher bitrate.

Waiting on a firmware update or two before I get one though.


----------



## Tanizhq

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Same thats the dynamic data, my TV did that too, its kind of annoying.
> I have been watching "all of us our dead" in DV and have not seen any real issues with brightness or red push. Looks great.
> Still thinking of getting a HDFury just to extract the maximum benefit from the machine, but not yet sure wich to get.
> 
> I have seen multiple reports that the Arcana is all you need to fix everything, the Vertex seems to maybe be a bit more feature packed but perhaps features not needed, and of course the VRROOM is the only one that is rated for the higher bitrate.
> 
> Waiting on a firmware update or two before I get one though.


Oh so it is an issue on other DV displays too? Its super distracting for me personally, hope someone knows a work around for that. 

Is it an issue which is likely to be fixable with the Arcana? Because I have one of those already. Just would mean losing out on "true" DV.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Tanizhq said:


> Oh so it is an issue on other DV displays too? Its super distracting for me personally, hope someone knows a work around for that.
> 
> Is it an issue which is likely to be fixable with the Arcana? Because I have one of those already. Just would mean losing out on "true" DV.


On the TV I think it could be fixed by turning off dynamic contrast or automatic brightness or something. On the T1 no options I can think of.
Some shows are worse than others, and I use subtitles a lot so I always notice it.


----------



## zaselim

rjyap said:


> Sure once I done the measurement and tuning. Please note that the measurement is done against my projector screen which is neutral white. If your screen is not neutral, then it will skew the color.


Yeah my current screen is also matt white with 0.9 gain fixed frame screen.


----------



## CabbageMan

lattiboy said:


> Has anybody else gotten a firmware update? So far it’s just the one person as far as I can tell.


I got this reply from them last night. Hopefully coming soon.


----------



## eezrider

jakechoy said:


> I already created a separate thread to collate all the UST cabinets we can find:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cabinets and Consoles for UST Projectors
> 
> 
> Was reading in the UST threads about built-in cabinets and IKEA hacks - decided to start this thread to share off the shelf cabinets that are shipped globally. These are listed on ali and lazada sites with free international shipping. Inligent Laser Stone Plate Projection TV Cabinet...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


Also thinking about how to do this. Following your link for the slider I came across another. Looks more basic, more of a component? 



https://m.aliexpress.com/item/1005002939549112.html?spm=a2g2x.detail.more_to_love.11.76b94631QielqY&sku_id=12000022884013383&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.34525.271714.0&scm_id=1007.34525.271714.0&scm-url=1007.34525.271714.0&pvid=2b0d0b78-5e67-400b-8e65-0dd84c1cdc78&_t=gps-id%3ApcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller%2Cscm-url%3A1007.34525.271714.0%2Cpvid%3A2b0d0b78-5e67-400b-8e65-0dd84c1cdc78%2Ctpp_buckets%3A24525%230%23271714%2346_21387%230%23270972%230_4452%230%23226710%230_4452%233474%2316498%23547_4452%234862%2324463%23212_4452%233098%239599%23636_4452%235108%2323442%23458_4452%233564%2316062%23353&scenario=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&tpp_rcmd_bucket_id=271714&_ga=2.153985464.1060675537.1645454315-115455321.1645454315


----------



## Demetri Zuev

CabbageMan said:


> I got this reply from them last night. Hopefully coming soon.
> View attachment 3243580


If they fix all the stuff in about 1.5 months I might order a T1 even before my C2 arrives 😅


----------



## abaintor

ViciousXUSMC said:


> On the TV I think it could be fixed by turning off dynamic contrast or automatic brightness or something. On the T1 no options I can think of.
> Some shows are worse than others, and I use subtitles a lot so I always notice it.


This is very annoying, have you tried to report it ?
Dynamic contrast should be switchable, as all other parameters in dolby vision mode


----------



## Xspearo

abaintor said:


> This is very annoying, have you tried to report it ?
> Dynamic contrast should be switchable, as all other parameters in dolby vision mode


I agree with this and DV should be able to turn on and off if user choose.


----------



## lattiboy

Xspearo said:


> I agree with this and DV should be able to turn on and off if user choose.


As far as I’m aware, every player that supports Dolby Vision allows you to toggle it off and on. Roku, Apple, Nvidia, and I believe most Blu-ray players.


----------



## indieke2

I got the Xiaomi C 2. I not regret. Maybe it has les a woaw factor some describe from their T1 here, but I could not be more happy for the moment. First all modes switch automatically, not the same problem as with the Fengmi C 2, with problematic HDR, but Dolby vision is the best PQ on a projector, I have ever seen. In Tom Boy, the lawyer wear glasses in the first episode. The natural contrast, good blacks, sharpness sof image, every wrinkle, pimple is visible, looking through het glasses is really looking through a window. The colors? U N B E L I E V A B L E! My wife was even impressed. Some may like more "pop" colors. This was just well balanced.


----------



## rjyap

I just done a comparison The suicide squad Harley Quinn scene posted earlier between Streaming DV version vs UHD version. If we don't care about color accuracy, the DV version does look very pop and grab your attention while UHD version Harley skin tone looks very pale. I do some search online and in fact her makeup for Harley Quinn character is purposely making her look pale as this is how the comic books describe her appearance after Joker push her into acid pool. So this is a good example preferences vs references.


----------



## rjyap

zaselim said:


> Right, Thanks.
> How's the build quality of the projector and how's the heat flow. Does it get hot or warm enough to need a separate cooler for it?


Just put my hand near the fan and it only feel warm. My old Optoma lamp based projector feel hotter.


----------



## rjyap

Further testing with T1 and found a bug with the software. It seems like sometimes it doesn't apply custom profile when booting up from full shutdown. I'm using PC as my media and a full white give me bluish white which is wrong for custom profile as I tune it to D65 which is more yellowish white. Need to change the color temp to one of the preset then back to custom and it will be apply correctly. Also dynamic contrast is working in dark scene where it doesn't use lower laser light but try to lift highlight which cause artefact in brighter pixel. It actually cause bluish highlight on very dark scene like patches on the face which is annoying. Turn that off and you get smoother gradient but darker highlight. You can pause the scene and try to turn on/off dynamic contrast to check the effect. Personally I feel that dynamic contrast actually screw up the smooth gradient for certain scene.


----------



## mirkmito

rjyap said:


> Further testing with T1 and found a bug with the software. It seems like sometimes it doesn't apply custom profile when booting up from full shutdown. I'm using PC as my media and a full white give me bluish white which is wrong for custom profile as I tune it to D65 which is more yellowish white. Need to change the color temp to one of the preset then back to custom and it will be apply correctly. Also dynamic contrast is working in dark scene where it doesn't use lower laser light but try to lift highlight which cause artefact in brighter pixel. It actually cause bluish highlight on very dark scene like patches on the face which is annoying. Turn that off and you get smoother gradient but darker highlight. You can pause the scene and try to turn on/off dynamic contrast to check the effect. Personally I feel that dynamic contrast actually screw up the smooth gradient for certain scene.


Any bugs report everything to Fomovie 😉


----------



## Deanodxb

Hello all. Just got my T1 based on the feedback from the community here. I wanted to point out a couple of things though that I can’t see anyone has picked up on yet.
1. User manual accessible from T1 describes a zoom function in the image settings (right below the option for selection of projector mounting options) but this is not available in the settings. Has anyone else noticed this?

2. Manual also describes being able to set focus during playback by pressing the centre button on the remote. This doesn’t work for me. I’m using Apple TV4K and the direction pad on the Fengmi remote takes over the Apple remote. Would really like to be able to use any image source to finely adjust focus (which would be better than the fixed Fengmi focus page). 

3. just projecting on a white wall until my screen arrives but I have to adjust the keystone massively to get the image square. Did anyone else experience this? Have checked my wall, console shelf and the T1 and everything is spot on level. Adjustable feet on the T1 are also screwed in full so the unit remains level edged to edge.

4. Keystone adjust is still not perfect. I have a laser level to check the image and the top right corner ‘leans in’. Can’t get the image straight no matter what I do. 

Any feedback on the above greatly appreciated.


----------



## zaselim

Hey guys, can someone share a couple of prominent red tint pictures with me or other prominent issue you It think needs fixing picture wise. Today, I have been asked by this Chinese (John Lee from Wupro) seller on Alibaba to share some pics so he can help things move along faster in terms of fix/update release.
He also told me that the global version of the firmware will be releasing at the end of April.


----------



## m0j0

zaselim said:


> Hey guys, can someone share a couple of prominent red tint pictures with me or other prominent issue you It think needs fixing picture wise. Today, I have been asked by this Chinese (John Lee from Wupro) seller on Alibaba to share some pics so he can help things move along faster in terms of fix/update release.
> He also told me that the global version of the firmware will be releasing at the end of April.


If I recall that sample video online of the glass blower had the red tint skin tone issue.

This comparison video seems to show a lot of red and orange in the two videos with DV enabled for the T1


----------



## Timothyyy

Hi guys,
If anyone uses T1 with Xbox, please share a screenshot of video information. The one in the setting shows if it supports 120 50 60 24hz and Dolby vision and so on.
Thank you very much.


----------



## lattiboy

zaselim said:


> Hey guys, can someone share a couple of prominent red tint pictures with me or other prominent issue you It think needs fixing picture wise. Today, I have been asked by this Chinese (John Lee from Wupro) seller on Alibaba to share some pics so he can help things move along faster in terms of fix/update release.
> He also told me that the global version of the firmware will be releasing at the end of April.












































These above are the worst offenders for DV red push.

These are the worst for HDR low brightness issues:


----------



## eezrider

Timothyyy said:


> Hi guys,
> If anyone uses T1 with Xbox, please share a screenshot of video information. The one in the setting shows if it supports 120 50 60 24hz and Dolby vision and so on.
> Thank you very much.


Not sure i understand what you're asking for. I see the settings you describe. I don't believe it actually supports 120hz as the projector chip is 60 hz natively


----------



## zaselim

m0j0 said:


> If I recall that sample video online of the glass blower had the red tint skin tone issue.
> 
> This comparison video seems to show a lot of red and orange in the two videos with DV enabled for the T1


Thanks, I gave John the link to the video. Its good that it has another projector to show the comparison.


----------



## zaselim

lattiboy said:


> View attachment 3244349
> 
> View attachment 3244353
> 
> View attachment 3244352
> 
> View attachment 3244354
> 
> View attachment 3244355
> 
> 
> These above are the worst offenders for DV red push.
> 
> These are the worst for HDR low brightness issues:
> 
> View attachment 3244357
> 
> View attachment 3244358


Thanks for the pictures, they really are best showcase of red push in DV. I sent them all including the HDR ones. The hdr ones also have low color as well.
Thanks again.


----------



## rjyap

zaselim said:


> Thanks for the pictures, they really are best showcase of red push in DV. I sent them all including the HDR ones. The hdr ones also have low color as well.
> Thanks again.


I check those low HDR color scene on madVR histogram and it's correct. Those scene are lower APL scene not hitting more than 100 nits. The problem I can see is color temp not correct (good example Suicide Squad too bluish color temp) and dynamic contrast that try to lift the highlight which cause the gradient not smooth on blade runner scene (feel like the gamma is adjusted too high).


----------



## lattiboy

rjyap said:


> I check those low HDR color scene on madVR histogram and it's correct. Those scene are lower APL scene not hitting more than 100 nits. The problem I can see is color temp not correct (good example Suicide Squad too bluish color temp) and dynamic contrast that try to lift the highlight which cause the gradient not smooth on blade runner scene (feel like the gamma is adjusted too high).


I don't have as many examples of bad HDR because I've tended to increase brightness by 15-20 and lower contrast by 3-5. There is for sure an issue with rendering of HDR, but I'm not sophisticated enough to properly diagnose it. Again, comparing to the C2 I had the HDR needs constant babysitting, almost always requiring a 10 point increase in brightness to get something approaching correct.

I'm still wowed enough by color that I'm cool with the T1, but my patience with Fengmi is wearing thin on DV and HDR issues. This was all clearly worked out with the C2 and it's incredibly confusing these issues persist within the same basic organization.


----------



## zaselim

lattiboy said:


> View attachment 3244349
> 
> View attachment 3244353
> 
> View attachment 3244352
> 
> View attachment 3244354
> 
> View attachment 3244355
> 
> 
> These above are the worst offenders for DV red push.
> 
> These are the worst for HDR low brightness issues:
> 
> View attachment 3244357
> 
> View attachment 3244358


This is what he (John Lee) replied me with:
1. Do you watch Dolby Vision online or through external devices? (such as HDMI cable)
2. Machine software version?
3, test Li Can's test film source, whether there will be a partial red problem.
(link: https://pan.baidu.com/s/1zoI6wsQLaCNYLwer6vhQ7w
Extraction code: HFTB)
4. Provide SN, and we will push the test version
5. Bluetooth MAC address?
(Bluetooth address query method: Settings - About - Network information - Bluetooth MAC address)


----------



## lattiboy

zaselim said:


> This is what he (John Lee) replied me with:
> 1. Do you watch Dolby Vision online or through external devices? (such as HDMI cable)
> 2. Machine software version?
> 3, test Li Can's test film source, whether there will be a partial red problem.
> (link: https://pan.baidu.com/s/1zoI6wsQLaCNYLwer6vhQ7w
> Extraction code: HFTB)
> 4. Provide SN, and we will push the test version
> 5. Bluetooth MAC address?
> (Bluetooth address query method: Settings - About - Network information - Bluetooth MAC address)


I went through this exact series of questions with Fengmi support already via email, they asked identical questions and I was never updated even after I provided the info. I appreciate what you’re doing, but they either don’t have a fix or are so confused they can’t seem to release it to their users.


----------



## rjyap

lattiboy said:


> I don't have as many examples of bad HDR because I've tended to increase brightness by 15-20 and lower contrast by 3-5. There is for sure an issue with rendering of HDR, but I'm not sophisticated enough to properly diagnose it. Again, comparing to the C2 I had the HDR needs constant babysitting, almost always requiring a 10 point increase in brightness to get something approaching correct.
> 
> I'm still wowed enough by color that I'm cool with the T1, but my patience with Fengmi is wearing thin on DV and HDR issues. This was all clearly worked out with the C2 and it's incredibly confusing these issues persist within the same basic organization.


You are right that the HDR tone map on Fengmi is problematic. As I'm using MadVR outputting in SDR mode so I don't encounter this issue. If you need to constantly adjusting brightness and contrast based on dark or bright scene, the tone mapping for HDR need to be improve. I haven't test out HDR mode yet as it's kind of hard to profile if the tone map algo is unpredictable.

Also can you turn off Dynamic Contrast and check again.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Sounds like this first firmware is to help with the red color (I have not really had much issue with this, maybe one or two scenes and it was not terrible) but its the tone mapping that really needs help.
Still on the fence about a HD Fury device just to extract the maximum performance out of the projector if needed. Just would suck to get it and a week later a firmware fixes everything as I think it has the technical capacity to do everything near perfect.

For me its just some dark stuff being too dark is the only real issue.

I'll have to check for the dynamic contrast setting and see if that helps.


----------



## zaselim

rjyap said:


> You are right that the HDR tone map on Fengmi is problematic. As I'm using MadVR outputting in SDR mode so I don't encounter this issue. If you need to constantly adjusting brightness and contrast based on dark or bright scene, the tone mapping for HDR need to be improve. I haven't test out HDR mode yet as it's kind of hard to profile if the tone map algo is unpredictable.
> 
> Also can you turn off Dynamic Contrast and check again.


You should try to check hdr as well to see how it performs with madvr. It would be interesting to see how it performs with mad vr.


----------



## zaselim

lattiboy said:


> I went through this exact series of questions with Fengmi support already via email, they asked identical questions and I was never updated even after I provided the info. I appreciate what you’re doing, but they either don’t have a fix or are so confused they can’t seem to release it to their users.


No problem, I'm also doing it for myself as I am doing it for my fellow brothers who already owned the projector and waiting for the fix, since I like the projector and I wanna get it as soon as I can and I'm waiting for the fix-firmware update or at least for beta version with the HDR and DV fix.
And this John Lee guy is doing it because he wants to sell the projector to me or other customers holding out, waiting for the fix.


----------



## zaselim

Does the red color push only happens when watching from HDMI and not when watching media from the USB? John Lee also told me that he noticed red push is less on hdmi 2.0 or more when hdmi 2.1 option is selected. And when watching from usb, he didn't notice any red push.


----------



## shanedowley

lattiboy said:


> I don't have as many examples of bad HDR because I've tended to increase brightness by 15-20 and lower contrast by 3-5. There is for sure an issue with rendering of HDR, but I'm not sophisticated enough to properly diagnose it. Again, comparing to the C2 I had the HDR needs constant babysitting, almost always requiring a 10 point increase in brightness to get something approaching correct.
> 
> I'm still wowed enough by color that I'm cool with the T1, but my patience with Fengmi is wearing thin on DV and HDR issues. This was all clearly worked out with the C2 and it's incredibly confusing these issues persist within the same basic organization.


The Fengmi C2 had exactly same HDR tone mapping issues you describe here. I’m surprised they haven’t sorted that on the T1. Gives the feeling they ported a lot of the software over unchanged.


----------



## pianotator

I totally agree, I wrote last week a mail to Fengmi about all the issues on the Fengmi C2. They answered me two days later that they "have given your feedback to the product manager and R&D department.
Once we have any news, we will inform you as soon as possible !"
I am surprised by their reactivity about mails but also not very pleased about their lack of corrections on their newer models and firmwares..


----------



## eezrider

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Sounds like this first firmware is to help with the red color (I have not really had much issue with this, maybe one or two scenes and it was not terrible) but its the tone mapping that really needs help.
> Still on the fence about a HD Fury device just to extract the maximum performance out of the projector if needed. Just would suck to get it and a week later a firmware fixes everything as I think it has the technical capacity to do everything near perfect.
> 
> For me its just some dark stuff being too dark is the only real issue.
> 
> I'll have to check for the dynamic contrast setting and see if that helps.


@ViciousXUSMC, I agree with your findings here. I've noticed the DV red push only occasionally. I use an XBox One X and am now finding that DV is darker generally and has a purple/blue tint (this may be an issue with the XBox or the Netflix app on XBox as I don't think this was true when I first got the T1). But more generally, I'm finding most HDR content is too dark. What I tried yesterday, which I think mirrors Lattiboy's experiments, is turning off DV on the XBox and focusing on setting the projector up for HDR, where I can control brightness and contrast. In experiments last night in a gloomy room, I was happy with Brightness at 50-54 but with Contrast at 65-70, occasionally even higher. The improvement was _dramatic_. For the shows/movies that I sampled I found I rarely had to dial back the contrast (an exception was 'In from the Cold', which has crazy highlights that needed Contrast at 57). Increasing the contrast had an amazing effect on the images, adding life and pop - it seems to stretch the tone mapping, pulling everything up, not just boosting the highlights. For any SDR content that doesn't need the boost I find Office/Child works well. I've now set up custom for HDR so I can switch easily between Office/Child and Office/Custom for most content. At some point I'll try to dial in the gray scale for Office using custom also, currently just using warm. 

It could be that my Vividstorm with its 0.6 gain, while it improves blacks immensely, is sucking too much out of the midrange and highlights, so boosting contrast is compensating for that. The only annoying thing about my experiment was that I did it _after _watching The King, which is a great movie, but has many dark scenes. When I peeked back at some of those scenes with the boosted contrast, I felt like I wanted to watch the movie again! 

I haven't yet noticed any impact of using Dynamic Contrast. It would be interesting to get references to content on Netflix/Prime/HBO Max where changing Dynamic Contrast has some impact.

I'm going to add my comments above to my feedback to Fengmi support. My biggest grouch is HDR tone mapping for sure. But to be sure, the overall impression of the T1 is still WOW!


----------



## eezrider

Regarding Fengmi support and the firmware improvements, if I had to guess it would be that they have taken feedback from the first users of the alpha, which (from comments here) seemed like it improved DV but made other content worse, and are currently fixing that before they send an updated release out to others to try. As to their responsiveness, I'm pretty impressed. I've had mail from them several times. A few weeks ago, I offered to help with some of the English translations - they thanked me for the offer at the time, but then a couple of days ago I got an email from one of their guys asking specifically if I would help them with that. So yesterday I spent a couple of hours going through several of their menus and offering suggestions in a doc which I've sent them. We'll see, but I'm optimistic that we'll see some progress.


----------



## Directtv999

eezrider said:


> Regarding Fengmi support and the firmware improvements, if I had to guess it would be that they have taken feedback from the first users of the alpha, which (from comments here) seemed like it improved DV but made other content worse, and are currently fixing that before they send an updated release out to others to try. As to their responsiveness, I'm pretty impressed. I've had mail from them several times. A few weeks ago, I offered to help with some of the English translations - they thanked me for the offer at the time, but then a couple of days ago I got an email from one of their guys asking specifically if I would help them with that. So yesterday I spent a couple of hours going through several of their menus and offering suggestions in a doc which I've sent them. We'll see, but I'm optimistic that we'll see some progress.


Are there any good sellers where I can buy T1 and offers?


----------



## DeanM3

Has anyone actually received the alpha firmware?


----------



## m0j0

Just got my T1 setup and I have to say, I am completely floored! Just amazing! Kids are watching the octonauts sonote movie and it’s just so lush, colorful and vibrant, they can’t take their eyes off the screen. They have seen this movie like 100 times but they are watching like they’ve never seen it before, it looks that different/better!


----------



## Adamgoodapp

Downloading the alpha update now. FengOS 2.0.0.2079

let me know what to test.

Update notes:


FengOS2.0.0.2079

Tabletop

New boot boot scheme.

• New mode switching, including theatre mode, business mode, situation mode Style, music mode, through Shutdown Interface or Launchpad enters Enter.

System optimisation

• TENCENT CLOUD GAME START DELAY OPTIMISATION, DELAY OPTIMISATION TO 8 MILLISECONDS.

• Optimised MEMC motion compensation effect of MT9669 chip platform, picture Smoother.

• Optimised video and audio synchronisation function, and the audio and picture synchronization experience is better.

• Optimised picture quality performance, better picture performance

• Optimised sound quality and better sound performance.


----------



## m0j0

Ok, so I have an HDFury Vertex2 and I was able to set my Apple TV 4k to use Dolby Vision and then setup the Vertex2 to pass everything as player led LLDV to the T1 and keep the T1 from engaging TV side DV (just need to set HDMI to 2.1 under play settings to keep DV on T1 from engaging). So, the end result is I have all the image parameters available (which typically would go away if the T1 switches into DV mode), so I can bump up brightness and contrast and that applies whether the format is HD, HDR or DV from the player. I'm getting some pretty amazing images as a result. In case anyone is interested, here's my settings on the Vertex2. Skin tones all look great and no red push with this setup, nor dark HDR.


----------



## m0j0

And here's my initial settings:
Brightness mode: View Mode
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 53
Contrast: 83
Saturation: 56
Sharpness: 50
Tone: 50
Color: Standard
Dynamic Contrast: Off

Note: Sometimes these settings did not initially engage, so I had to go into Custom in the menu and then they would apply.


----------



## zoomx2

m0j0 said:


> Ok, so I have an HDFury Vertex2 and I was able to set my Apple TV 4k to use Dolby Vision and then setup the Vertex2 to pass everything as player led LLDV to the T1 and keep the T1 from engaging TV side DV (just need to set HDMI to 2.1 under play settings to keep DV on T1 from engaging). So, the end result is I have all the image parameters available (which typically would go away if the T1 switches into DV mode), so I can bump up brightness and contrast and that applies whether the format is HD, HDR or DV from the player. I'm getting some pretty amazing images as a result. In case anyone is interested, here's my settings on the Vertex2. Skin tones all look great and no red push with this setup, nor dark HDR.
> 
> View attachment 3244975
> View attachment 3244976
> View attachment 3244977
> View attachment 3244978
> View attachment 3244979


Show us few pics how much difference it makes.


----------



## zoomx2

Adamgoodapp said:


> Downloading the alpha update now. FengOS 2.0.0.2079
> 
> let me know what to test.
> 
> Update notes:
> 
> 
> FengOS2.0.0.2079
> 
> Tabletop
> 
> New boot boot scheme.
> 
> • New mode switching, including theatre mode, business mode, situation mode Style, music mode, through Shutdown Interface or Launchpad enters Enter.
> 
> System optimisation
> 
> • TENCENT CLOUD GAME START DELAY OPTIMISATION, DELAY OPTIMISATION TO 8 MILLISECONDS.
> 
> • Optimised MEMC motion compensation effect of MT9669 chip platform, picture Smoother.
> 
> • Optimised video and audio synchronisation function, and the audio and picture synchronization experience is better.
> 
> • Optimised picture quality performance, better picture performance
> 
> • Optimised sound quality and better sound performance.
> 
> View attachment 3244974


They push firmware update to your unit only?


----------



## lattiboy

Just got the notification and I’m downloading it. You have to go to the Home Screen and it should be on the top as “new version” download button. Will report on DV and HDR


----------



## lattiboy

SWEET LORD I THINK THEY FIXED DV!!!

before update:










after update:










before:










after (the dress is more brilliant here, but hard to capture with iPhone)


----------



## m0j0

zoomx2 said:


> Show us few pics how much difference it makes.


Ok, here's a "few" pictures using the Vertex2 with the T1 to send player led LLDV to the projector while not engaging DV on the T1 by using HDMI 2.1 setting. Some of these are Dolby Vision (such as Bridgerton, Cursed, etc from Netflix), some are HDR (Encanto, which I am streaming from my Plex server) and some are HD (the pics of the various kids shows). Regardless of which format, they are all using the same settings as everything is getting sent as LLDV from the ATV4k.


----------



## m0j0

lattiboy said:


> SWEET LORD I THINK THEY FIXED DV!!!
> 
> before update:
> 
> View attachment 3245011
> 
> 
> after update:
> 
> View attachment 3245015


Wow, that is an improvement!


----------



## lattiboy

*They fixed HDR too!* I have way less examples, but when you pause a movie in Plex and it switches from SDR to HDR it is way, way more subtle. Before it looked like you were turning brightness down by 40%, now it just adds contrast and color!

*Thanks to Fengmi for fixing these issues!*

Much better after purchase support than giants like LG who shipped units with similar issues and never got them resolved!

I will now say with no reservations that the Fengmi T1 is the best consumer projector on planet earth. I am so happy I waited it out to get this update and am going to just go buck wild watching stuff this week.


----------



## Xspearo

lattiboy said:


> *They fixed HDR too!* I have way less examples, but when you pause a movie in Plex and it switches from SDR to HDR it is way, way more subtle. Before it looked like you were turning brightness down by 40%, now it just adds contrast and color!
> 
> *Thanks to Fengmi for fixing these issues!*
> 
> Much better after purchase support than giants like LG who shipped units with similar issues and never got them resolved!
> 
> I will now say with no reservations that the Fengmi T1 is the best consumer projector on planet earth. I am so happy I waited it out to get this update and am going to just go buck wild watching stuff this week.


Glad to hear this. Can't wait to try it out once I'm home. My benchmark for HDR dark scene would be Avengers: End Game at the 50:00-57:00 mark on Disney plus. Can't wait to give it a try.


----------



## Adamgoodapp

lattiboy said:


> *They fixed HDR too!* I have way less examples, but when you pause a movie in Plex and it switches from SDR to HDR it is way, way more subtle. Before it looked like you were turning brightness down by 40%, now it just adds contrast and color!
> 
> *Thanks to Fengmi for fixing these issues!*
> 
> Much better after purchase support than giants like LG who shipped units with similar issues and never got them resolved!
> 
> I will now say with no reservations that the Fengmi T1 is the best consumer projector on planet earth. I am so happy I waited it out to get this update and am going to just go buck wild watching stuff this week.


Nice you got your update downloaded quick, mine has been downloading for the past 1hr. Such a slow connection even do I'm in Japan. 

Since HDR and DV is working better, does it mean they have addressed the hdmi/handshake issue? I will test to see if we don't need to change the HDMI version setting anymore.


----------



## lattiboy

I swear on a _stack of bibles_ the difference between this scene from a Sony HDR demo reel on the T1 vs a Sony OLED I checked out at Video Only this week is incredibly small.

Cannot overstate how big this update was in unlocking the potential of the T1. Also, child mode may be the best preset now. This is View Brightness and Child Mode from an HDR YouTube video. Movie mode and night brightness get the best color clipping performance by a wide margin on an HDR test pattern, but looks a little dull in practice.

Weirdly, photos are much more difficult now as everything comes out extremely warm and a little dull compared to in room.


----------



## rjyap

lattiboy said:


> SWEET LORD I THINK THEY FIXED DV!!!
> 
> before update:
> 
> View attachment 3245011
> 
> 
> after update:
> 
> View attachment 3245015
> 
> 
> before:
> 
> View attachment 3245052
> 
> 
> after (the dress is more brilliant here, but hard to capture with iPhone)
> 
> View attachment 3245053


Looks much more natural. Looks like DV problem solved. Also, can you post the Awaken little girl in snow face.


----------



## AlexM89

Today I will try to see if it plays HDR10+


----------



## shanedowley

lattiboy said:


> I swear on a _stack of bibles_ the difference between this scene from a Sony HDR demo reel on the T1 vs a Sony OLED I checked out at Video Only this week is incredibly small.
> 
> Cannot overstate how big this update was in unlocking the potential of the T1. Also, child mode may be the best preset now. This is View Brightness and Child Mode from an HDR YouTube video. Movie mode and night brightness get the best color clipping performance by a wide margin on an HDR test pattern, but looks a little dull in practice.
> 
> Weirdly, photos are much more difficult now as everything comes out extremely warm and a little dull compared to in room.
> 
> View attachment 3245068


This is excellent news. And a credit to Fengmi in taking seriously the customer feedback.
So it sounds like they’ve corrected the primary colour offsets for DV, fixed HDR tone mapping and recognising for SDR and HDR gamma/EOTF. Is MEMC available when DV engaged?


----------



## AlexM89

Do you know what changes and if something changes?

*• New mode switching, including theatre mode, business mode, situation mode Style, music mode, through Shutdown Interface or Launchpad enters Enter.*


----------



## Adamgoodapp

AlexM89 said:


> Today I will try to see if it plays HDR10+


I played 1917 which is HDR10+ via Plex on my updated T1. Not sure if there is any difference or how to check if its HDR10+. Plex just shows HDR.




















shanedowley said:


> This is excellent news. And a credit to Fengmi in taking seriously the customer feedback.
> So it sounds like they’ve corrected the primary colour offsets for DV, fixed HDR tone mapping and recognising for SDR and HDR gamma/EOTF. Is MEMC available when DV engaged?


MEMC still not available in DV.


----------



## AlexM89

Adamgoodapp said:


> Downloading the alpha update now. FengOS 2.0.0.2079
> 
> New boot boot scheme.
> 
> • New mode switching, including theatre mode, business mode, situation mode Style, music mode, through Shutdown Interface or Launchpad enters Enter.



While for the new menu you have seen changes selecting between theater mode, business mode, situation mode Style?





Adamgoodapp said:


> I played 1917 which is HDR10+ via Plex on my updated T1. Not sure if there is any difference or how to check if its HDR10+. Plex just shows HDR.
> 
> 
> MEMC still not available in DV.



With the Oppo I can test ...
Above all I have the Spears & Munsil bluray and already from the home screen it tells me if my tv / vpr is compatible with the various formats ...
As soon as I can I tell you ...

For MEMC it will never be introduced on DV content.


----------



## AlexM89

HDR10+ still not working ...


Input:







.



Output:









It doesn't support it











*I report it to Formovie....*


----------



## Adamgoodapp

I love this device.

Playing Awaken on my shield TV, latest T1 alpha firmware. Taken pics on my iphone 12 with no editing.

View mode and DV dark.

The pic of the girl is a bit more reddish due to my iphone and the real picture looks more pale/correct.

Maybe other members with better photography skills can post more true images.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Adamgoodapp said:


> I love this device.
> 
> Playing Awaken on my shield TV, latest T1 alpha firmware. Taken pics on my iphone 12 with no editing.
> 
> View mode and DV dark.
> 
> The pic of the girl is a bit more reddish due to my iphone and the real picture looks more pale/correct.
> 
> Maybe other members with better photography skills can post more true images.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3245120
> 
> View attachment 3245119
> 
> View attachment 3245117
> 
> View attachment 3245116
> 
> View attachment 3245118


Absolutely stunning. Incredible black levels, color pop and sharpness.


----------



## m0j0

So, how do we request the firmware update?


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Wow this was much better results than we could have expected.
I might have to ask to be sent the Alpha firmware.

Who/Where did you have to go to request it?


----------



## AlexM89

m0j0 said:


> So, how do we request the firmware update?





ViciousXUSMC said:


> Wow this was much better results than we could have expected.
> I might have to ask to be sent the Alpha firmware.
> 
> Who/Where did you have to go to request it?



[email protected]


----------



## rjyap

Adamgoodapp said:


> I love this device.
> 
> Playing Awaken on my shield TV, latest T1 alpha firmware. Taken pics on my iphone 12 with no editing.
> 
> View mode and DV dark.
> 
> The pic of the girl is a bit more reddish due to my iphone and the real picture looks more pale/correct.
> 
> Maybe other members with better photography skills can post more true images.


Just use iPhone 12 build in photo editing and click on warmth and adjust to -35. That would quite match what's capture on screen but color is less vibrant due to lower colorspace.


----------



## rjyap

Ricoflashback said:


> Absolutely stunning. Incredible black levels, color pop and sharpness.


 Wait until you see it in person. The color pop and sharpness is actually better than what we capture here.


----------



## zaselim

lattiboy said:


> SWEET LORD I THINK THEY FIXED DV!!!
> 
> before update:
> 
> View attachment 3245011
> 
> 
> after update:
> 
> View attachment 3245015
> 
> 
> before:
> 
> View attachment 3245052
> 
> 
> after (the dress is more brilliant here, but hard to capture with iPhone)
> 
> View attachment 3245053


This looks amazing, Is hdr tone mapping also working with the update?
And did you check it with arcana or without it?


----------



## DeanM3

Just installed the new firmware. I’m impressed with how much they have listened to feedback and made the fixes so quickly. All they need to do is add the 3.5mm out for subwoofer and this is a perfect unit!


----------



## whiskthecat

Does the new firmware fix the handshaking issue where you have to flip between HDMI revisions upon bootup?


----------



## lattiboy

zaselim said:


> This looks amazing, Is hdr tone mapping also working with the update?
> And did you check it with arcana or without it?


Yes, HDR is now quite good. No more massive brightness drop when you engage HDR.

No Arcana needed anymore.


----------



## AlexM89

whiskthecat said:


> Does the new firmware fix the handshaking issue where you have to flip between HDMI revisions upon bootup?


No!
Let's see if other users also confirm...
Then for every bug I report everything to Formovie


----------



## AlexM89

lattiboy said:


> Yes, HDR is now quite good. No more massive brightness drop when you engage HDR.



Quite good?!

Today I try too ...

Since he is an alpha FW ... we keep reporting everything to Formovie !!


----------



## m0j0

So, stupid noob question. How do I get the T1 to auto turn on when an input is detected (maybe it already does that?) and auto turn off when input device is turned off? Is this possible? I have my Harmony setup to turn on the AVR and the ATV4k and to turn off both when I press the off button on the Harmony remote. Would like the projector to turn on and off automatically, but if not possible, I can try to add the T1 and use the power on and off as part of the Harmony routine.


----------



## zaselim

lattiboy said:


> Yes, HDR is now quite good. No more massive brightness drop when you engage HDR.
> 
> No Arcana needed anymore.


Nice, so its ok to order now. Right?


----------



## lattiboy

zaselim said:


> Nice, so its ok to order now. Right?


I think it’s great now and don’t have any substantial issues with it, but ordering is up to you.


----------



## zaselim

lattiboy said:


> I think it’s great now and don’t have any substantial issues with it, but ordering is up to you.


Yeah if there are no substantial issues and i dont have to get any separate device for the picture settings like arcana then its good now.
What i was asking about a suggestion/opinion that if you were holding out and waiting for fixes before making the order so now it would be ok to do so.


----------



## whiskthecat

DeanM3 said:


> Just installed the new firmware. I’m impressed with how much they have listened to feedback and made the fixes so quickly. All they need to do is add the 3.5mm out for subwoofer and this is a perfect unit!


Or even better allow some means of only playing back the center channel for people who already have a surround sound setup.


----------



## lattiboy

zaselim said:


> Yeah if there are no substantial issues and i dont have to get any separate device for the picture settings like arcana then its good now.
> What i was asking about a suggestion that if you were holding out and waiting for fixes before making the order so now it would be ok to do so.


Yes, I would fully recommend the T1 now over every other projector I’m aware of.


----------



## Ricoflashback

whiskthecat said:


> Or even better allow some means of only playing back the center channel for people who already have a surround sound setup.


That would be game, set and match!


----------



## zaselim

lattiboy said:


> Yes, I would fully recommend the T1 now over every other projector I’m aware of.


Right, thanks.


----------



## Directtv999

How is Fengmi T1 on 135” screen will
I loose the 4k quality?


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

whiskthecat said:


> Or even better allow some means of only playing back the center channel for people who already have a surround sound setup.


I am not aware of any UST that does this, but if I was designing one would totally try to make that happen by having speaker level inputs so your external sound system can power the built in speakers and handle all the DSP, EQ, Positioning, Delay, Etc.

With a pretty nice speaker setup like this one I think it could hold its own pretty well until you get to upper tier external speakers. It makes me kind of want to open it up and see about modding it in a DIY fashion, but I think I already got external speakers above this, so kind of a moot point.

I just love DIY and modding things, but its a bit expensive to take apart and play with, especially when its now my only TV lol.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Directtv999 said:


> How is Fengmi T1 on 135” screen will
> I loose the 4k quality?



I think it officially supports "up to 150"
If anything the larger you go, the more you are taking advantage of 4K resolution, but just you will lose output (brightness) and the UST projectors as a whole seem to be more difficult in terms of positioning and focus than long throw alternatives.

Using a 115" screen I am very happy with the output, I do not think that a 135" would be significantly different.


----------



## Ricoflashback

ViciousXUSMC said:


> I am not aware of any UST that does this, but if I was designing one would totally try to make that happen by having speaker level inputs so your external sound system can power the built in speakers and handle all the DSP, EQ, Positioning, Delay, Etc.
> 
> With a pretty nice speaker setup like this one I think it could hold its own pretty well until you get to upper tier external speakers. It makes me kind of want to open it up and see about modding it in a DIY fashion, but I think I already got external speakers above this, so kind of a moot point.
> 
> I just love DIY and modding things, but its a bit expensive to take apart and play with, especially when its now my only TV lol.


Personally, I think you could design a center channel with mid and high frequencies that rival many of the center channels on the market today. Even though I have the beastly Paradigm CC-690 - - I'd seriously look at replacing it if Xiaomi/Fengmi made a center channel option with their UST projectors. For bass - - use your own system or a 3.5 jack out for a sub. Probably the biggest complaint about the built-in B&W speakers is the lack of bass. But honestly - - I don't need much bass from my center channel. I want the clearest dialog I can get - - especially with the crap studio mixes and competing sounds that drown out the center channel.

Sony has TV's that you can plug in and the screen acts as the center channel. But as big as the Fengmi T1 is - - you could put an impressive array of speakers in that space for a killer center channel. And, it's at the right height, too. Gee, if Xiaomi/Fengmi were really smart (not that they aren't already) I'd package an entire sound system (optional) with L/R & Surround Speakers that are tonally matched to the projector's speakers. Say, another $500 or a $1,000 to get the job done.


----------



## Deanodxb

m0j0 said:


> So, stupid noob question. How do I get the T1 to auto turn on when an input is detected (maybe it already does that?) and auto turn off when input device is turned off? Is this possible? I have my Harmony setup to turn on the AVR and the ATV4k and to turn off both when I press the off button on the Harmony remote. Would like the projector to turn on and off automatically, but if not possible, I can try to add the T1 and use the power on and off as part of the Harmony routine.


T1 does it already automatically. I have my ATV4K on HDMI 1 and set to “auto” rather than 2.0, 2.1 etc. 

Only thing is when you shut down ATV4K, picture shuts off on T1 but fans continue to run. You have to shut the T1 off by its own remote for a full shutdown.


----------



## Directtv999

ViciousXUSMC said:


> I think it officially supports "up to 150"
> If anything the larger you go, the more you are taking advantage of 4K resolution, but just you will lose output (brightness) and the UST projectors as a whole seem to be more difficult in terms of positioning and focus than long throw alternatives.
> 
> Using a 115" screen I am very happy with the output, I do not think that a 135" would be significantly different.



Thanks for reply can someone point good seller who can ship to us with good price


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Deanodxb said:


> T1 does it already automatically. I have my ATV4K on HDMI 1 and set to “auto” rather than 2.0, 2.1 etc.
> 
> Only thing is when you shut down ATV4K, picture shuts off on T1 but fans continue to run. You have to shut the T1 off by its own remote for a full shutdown.


When it auto-offs it goes into standby so it can be turned right back on again, after it is in standby long enough it will turn all the way off and the fans will go off.

At first I was shutting it down all the way with my automation, but I changed it to just put the unit in standby instead so that way I can turn it right back on if say I just turned it off for dinner or something, by the time I go to use the projector the next day when turning it off for bed, it has gone into fully off mode.

Currently I have it set to turn on when signal is detected and go automatically to that signal source.
Those sources are on automation for voice control, then I turn everything off by voice automation.
It works really well and I have not needed to use the remote at all unless I want to tweak something.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Ricoflashback said:


> Personally, I think you could design a center channel with mid and high frequencies that rival many of the center channels on the market today. Even though I have the beastly Paradigm CC-690 - - I'd seriously look at replacing it if Xiaomi/Fengmi made a center channel option with their UST projectors. For bass - - use your own system or a 3.5 jack out for a sub. Probably the biggest complaint about the built-in B&W speakers is the lack of bass. But honestly - - I don't need much bass from my center channel. I want the clearest dialog I can get - - especially with the crap studio mixes and competing sounds that drown out the center channel.
> 
> Sony has TV's that you can plug in and the screen acts as the center channel. But as big as the Fengmi T1 is - - you could put an impressive array of speakers in that space for a killer center channel. And, it's at the right height, too. Gee, if Xiaomi/Fengmi were really smart (not that they aren't already) I'd package an entire sound system (optional) with L/R & Surround Speakers that are tonally matched to the projector's speakers. Say, another $500 or a $1,000 to get the job done.


My center is crossed at 70hz so yeah not much bass duty, thats what the 4x 15" Monoliths are for lol.
My big thing is I would want the projector to be a part of the AVR so that way things like YPAO, DIRAC etc can intergrate it, and when listening to multi channel you know everything is being processed correctly.

If you had "psudo" integration where say you played a multi channel sound to your AVR and the UST was "smart enough" to only play the center channel audio but the AVR was not controlling it, it would have its own volume, delay, EQ, potentially be out of sync due to processing, things like your dynamic volume, etc would not work. So I just would want it to be as basic as possible no crazy voodoo needed.

Just give me a bypass switch that physically disconnects the internal speakers from all the internal amplification and a speaker connection so I can externally power them from another device. Cant go wrong with this setup.


----------



## m0j0

Deanodxb said:


> T1 does it already automatically. I have my ATV4K on HDMI 1 and set to “auto” rather than 2.0, 2.1 etc.
> 
> Only thing is when you shut down ATV4K, picture shuts off on T1 but fans continue to run. You have to shut the T1 off by its own remote for a full shutdown.


Yeah, that's what I noticed, that the fans keep running, so was hoping I could get it to shutdown without using the T1 remote.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

m0j0 said:


> Yeah, that's what I noticed, that the fans keep running, so was hoping I could get it to shutdown without using the T1 remote.


It's possible, as I have done it. But not an out of the box solution. I used automation to handle that.
It's an android device so you can use ADB to control it and ADB can be integrated into many automation systems.

As mentioned it will turn itself off all the way and the fans go off after some time, I am not sure how much time that is.
Would be nice to just have an option for "standby time" so you could change that to what suites you.

Say anything from 1 minute to a couple of hours.


----------



## Ricoflashback

ViciousXUSMC said:


> When it auto-offs it goes into standby so it can be turned right back on again, after it is in standby long enough it will turn all the way off and the fans will go off.
> 
> At first I was shutting it down all the way with my automation, but I changed it to just put the unit in standby instead so that way I can turn it right back on if say I just turned it off for dinner or something, by the time I go to use the projector the next day when turning it off for bed, it has gone into fully off mode.
> 
> Currently I have it set to turn on when signal is detected and go automatically to that signal source.
> Those sources are on automation for voice control, then I turn everything off by voice automation.
> It works really well and I have not needed to use the remote at all unless I want to tweak something.


Isn't it better to have the fans running and cooling the UST after you shut it off, as well? I'm not sure, but do the fans still run when you totally shut down the projector? (Like my BenQ lamp projector - - still running the fans for a bout a minute to keep cooling down the PJ.) If you're using "Standby" - - and if the fans shut off after a certain time running - - I think that's a wanted feature in that helps with any heat damage.


----------



## lattiboy

My absolute torture test for HDR brightness is the whole "night raid" scene in the new Dune movie around the 1 hour mark. Again, HDR version, not Dolby Vision. 

Previously, I had to adjust brightness to 67 and drop contrast to 46 to get it to look even kind of okay. I just popped it on and with _absolutely no changes_ it looks damn near perfect. I'm using the DV version as a baseline reference, and the tonemapping in HDR is very close to that. Easily as good as my Sony X900E, which has very good HDR handling. DV is better looking of course, but there is a lot of non-DV content out there and the T1 now handles it as well as anything I've used. 

Also, noticing the yellow/green color shift from View brightness to Night brightness is greatly reduced. Night is still warmer, but it is very close to neutral considering the almost 1000 lumen reduction in output and is much better suited for darker viewing environments. My Hisense L5F and Bomaker Polaris both had worse color shift when using their selective laser level setting. 

In Dolby Vision, Office brightness still has a purple/pink tint, but considering that is the "light cannon" mode it's still very good, honestly rivaling an LED in daytime viewing with a CLR screen.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Ricoflashback said:


> Isn't it better to have the fans running and cooling the UST after you shut it off, as well? I'm not sure, but do the fans still run when you totally shut down the projector? (Like my BenQ lamp projector - - still running the fans for a bout a minute to keep cooling down the PJ.) If you're using "Standby" - - and if the fans shut off after a certain time running - - I think that's a wanted feature in that helps with any heat damage.


If you fully turn it off, they just turn off.
My initial thought is just as yours, its good to let it keep running to cool it down.
However, probably not really the case. Once the unit is off, nothing is generating new heat so it will not get any hotter than its running temp, it just wont cool down any faster.

If its OK to run at the temperature for hours at a time, it should be just as OK to let it sit at that temperature.

The only exception I can think of is if there are "hot spots" where heat can bleed from one component that is designed to handle the heat fine and without airflow the heat can leak to nearby components not designed to handle the heat, where airflow would prevent this concentration of heat by spreading it around and outright removing it. I would be surprised that such a case really exists though.

I think it makes a bit more sense with a bulb projector as the bulbs get so stupid hot, that it may actually decrease the life span of the bulb itself to let it say hot for unneeded periods of time.

But it is for this reason and just the faster on times of standby that I changed my automation to use standby instead of shutdown.
It adds just a little extra piece of mind.

In return I may have more dust buildup and shorter fan life though.


----------



## zaselim

Guys, does it has a bluetooth connectivity with the A/V receiver for the audio?


----------



## Deanodxb

ViciousXUSMC said:


> When it auto-offs it goes into standby so it can be turned right back on again, after it is in standby long enough it will turn all the way off and the fans will go off.
> 
> At first I was shutting it down all the way with my automation, but I changed it to just put the unit in standby instead so that way I can turn it right back on if say I just turned it off for dinner or something, by the time I go to use the projector the next day when turning it off for bed, it has gone into fully off mode.
> 
> Currently I have it set to turn on when signal is detected and go automatically to that signal source.
> Those sources are on automation for voice control, then I turn everything off by voice automation.
> It works really well and I have not needed to use the remote at all unless I want to tweak something.


Ok thanks - I will try tonight.

anyone found the missing zoom option in the settings menu yet? Does this appear in the latest alpha firmware?


----------



## Deanodxb

zaselim said:


> Guys, does it has a bluetooth connectivity with the A/V receiver for the audio?


yes. The manual says yes for both additional speakers and headphones. I haven’t tried yet though.


----------



## m0j0

Deanodxb said:


> yes. The manual says yes for both additional speakers and headphones. I haven’t tried yet though.


Bluetooth connection for headphones would be cool!


----------



## GaeIta80

lattiboy said:


> Yes, I would fully recommend the T1 now over every other projector I’m aware of.


So, after the firmware update, what are the best DV and SDR/HDR settings with a 0.6 ALR vividstorm screen? Does it autodetect HDR content now? 

Can't wait to download it and try it again


----------



## zaselim

Deanodxb said:


> yes. The manual says yes for both additional speakers and headphones. I haven’t tried yet though.


It'll be great if T1 can connect with the AV receiver via bluetooth like my phone does. That way i won't have to buy 20 feet hdmi cable.


----------



## zaselim

Guys what hdmi cable should i get for the projector, 2.0b or 2.1?
Does T1 support 12bit color space? I think 2.0b doesn't support 12bit or only support upto 12bit/30hz.
I'll be connecting it with my PC and PS4Pro/PS5.


----------



## lattiboy

GaeIta80 said:


> So, after the firmware update, what are the best DV and SDR/HDR settings with a 0.6 ALR vividstorm screen? Does it autodetect HDR content now?
> 
> Can't wait to download it and try it again


Child mode is my favorite with either view or night brightness. For DV view / dark seems to be correct.

Yes, HDR is now handled correctly. No more brightness drop and you don’t have to adjust image settings. Child mode in HDR looks quite good. Display mode is also pretty good, but lacks the pop. Movie mode and night brightness do best with an HDR color test pattern, almost all colors up to 71% clipping or so. You can test that here:






I hope somebody does proper calibrated settings again as I think Gregory’s settings could use an update. They look a bit green to me after the firmware, so I’m sticking with child mode.

EDIT: I’m using a 120” .6 Hisense CLR screen


----------



## tovaxxx

Can someone post a link for the new firmware? I have already sent them an email but have not received anything yet.


----------



## lattiboy

tovaxxx said:


> Can someone post a link for the new firmware? I have already sent them an email but have not received anything yet.


The firmware must be pushed to your projector by Fengmi, I am guessing there will be a beta version with further improvements and then a final release. There is a chance they will not release the Alpha firmware to more people until they get follow up feedback.


----------



## Ricoflashback

zaselim said:


> Guys what hdmi cable should i get for the projector, 2.0b or 2.1?
> Does T1 support 12bit color space? I think 2.0b doesn't support 12bit or only support upto 12bit/30hz.
> I'll be connecting it with my PC and PS4Pro/PS5.


I'll recommend a fiber optic cable. Something like this -
8K HDMI 2.1 Cable 10ft - TISOFU Certified 48Gpbs Ultra HD High Speed HDMI Cord, Supports [email protected] [email protected]/144Hz, HDR10, eARC, Dolby Atmos, HDCP 2.2 2.3, Compatible with HDTV, PS4/PS5, Gaming Monitor 
You can find them on Amazon and other Fiber Optic cables are fine, too, but look for Ultra High Speed with good reviews - - especially if you're gaming.


----------



## wltam

Hey guys! I finally pulled the trigger given everyone’s advice to get the T1. I am doubting to get a screen from Alibaba too and was wondering what you guys think of this one but in 120 inch?


Check out this product on Alibaba App 100Inch 16:9 High Gain 0.6 Huisdier Kristal Alr Hard Projectiescherm Voor Ultra Short Throw Projector Projectiescherm
Alibaba Manufacturer Directory


----------



## zaselim

Ricoflashback said:


> I'll recommend a fiber optic cable. Something like this -
> 8K HDMI 2.1 Cable 10ft - TISOFU Certified 48Gpbs Ultra HD High Speed HDMI Cord, Supports [email protected] [email protected]/144Hz, HDR10, eARC, Dolby Atmos, HDCP 2.2 2.3, Compatible with HDTV, PS4/PS5, Gaming Monitor
> You can find them on Amazon and other Fiber Optic cables are fine, too, but look for Ultra High Speed with good reviews - - especially if you're gaming.


How is this one?


Amazon.ca


----------



## ProjectionHead

My T1 just came in and I plan on cracking it open and taking a look next week. I dont have the energy to scan through 100 pages in this thread; any T1 gurus here willing to chat with me about getting this setup best, updated, etc for the best evaluation experience?
I have a Wemax Nova on the way as well.
Much appreciated!


----------



## Ricoflashback

zaselim said:


> How is this one?
> 
> 
> Amazon.ca


Looks great to me! Fiber Optic is really the way to go, IMHO. And the prices of these cables have really dropped the last couple of years.


----------



## zaselim

Ricoflashback said:


> Looks great to me! Fiber Optic is really the way to go, IMHO. And the prices of these cables have really dropped the last couple of years.


Thanks, I'll check them out as well.
This one says fiber cable, are fiber optic and only fiber cables different? Sorry I don't have much knowledge about fiber optic hdmi cables.








CABLEDECONN 7M 23FT 8K HDMI 2.1 Cable, [email protected] [email protected] HDMI Fiber Cable,3D Supports HDCP2.2 HDMI for PS4 SetTop Box HDTVs Projectors : Amazon.ca: Electronics


CABLEDECONN 7M 23FT 8K HDMI 2.1 Cable, [email protected] [email protected] HDMI Fiber Cable,3D Supports HDCP2.2 HDMI for PS4 SetTop Box HDTVs Projectors : Amazon.ca: Electronics



www.amazon.ca


----------



## Ricoflashback

ProjectionHead said:


> My T1 just came in and I plan on cracking it open and taking a look next week. I dont have the energy to scan through 100 pages in this thread; any T1 gurus here willing to chat with me about getting this setup best, updated, etc for the best evaluation experience?
> I have a Wemax Nova on the way as well.
> Much appreciated!


Do I sense a ”Zoom Meeting?” Actually - and check with the numerous posters here - - getting the latest firmware update pushed to your PJ makes the most sense. I think you have to request it. It isn’t automatic from what the forum has been saying.


----------



## 3sprit

Adamgoodapp said:


> I love this device.
> 
> Playing Awaken on my shield TV, latest T1 alpha firmware. Taken pics on my iphone 12 with no editing.
> 
> View mode and DV dark.
> 
> The pic of the girl is a bit more reddish due to my iphone and the real picture looks more pale/correct.
> 
> Maybe other members with better photography skills can post more true images.


Which screen are you using?


----------



## CabbageMan

Just downloaded the update. Excited to try it out tonight!


----------



## ted_b

A few questions for Fengmi T1 owners/enthusiasts:
1) is there a projector throw calculator anywhere on the web? I am thinking 110" diagonal (between main speakers)
2) can someone PM me about a seller contact in/for US purchase (or at least US shipment)?
3) I am currently thinking motorized Stewart Luxus screen, but not sure about unit placement in the non-AT (speaker below screen) setup versus viability and 10.5-11 ft viewing distance for AT (perf) version of the Stewart? The AT version is $2k more, so like almost $6500!!!! Argh. Stewart source was badmouthing much more affordable Seymour Center Stage, and I had a fixed Stewart in past life so I know they are good, but $$$$$, and being UST I know there is very little feedback/experiences.

Thanks


----------



## wltam

wltam said:


> Hey guys! I finally pulled the trigger given everyone’s advice to get the T1. I am doubting to get a screen from Alibaba too and was wondering what you guys think of this one but in 120 inch?
> 
> 
> Check out this product on Alibaba App 100Inch 16:9 High Gain 0.6 Huisdier Kristal Alr Hard Projectiescherm Voor Ultra Short Throw Projector Projectiescherm
> Alibaba Manufacturer Directory
> View attachment 3245403


was this similar to yours @lattiboy? I seem to recall you had post about your screen.


----------



## Directtv999

ted_b said:


> A few questions for Fengmi T1 owners/enthusiasts:
> 1) is there a projector throw calculator anywhere on the web? I am thinking 110" diagonal (between main speakers)
> 2) can someone PM me about a seller contact in/for US purchase (or at least US shipment)?
> 3) I am currently thinking motorized Stewart Luxus screen, but not sure about unit placement in the non-AT (speaker below screen) setup versus viability and 10.5-11 ft viewing distance for AT (perf) version of the Stewart? The AT version is $2k more, so like almost $6500!!!! Argh. Stewart source was badmouthing much more affordable Seymour Center Stage, and I had a fixed Stewart in past life so I know they are good, but $$$$$, and being UST I know there is very little feedback/experiences.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> View attachment 3245457
> 
> View attachment 3245458


PM me if you get any seller info am also planning to buy one.


----------



## rjyap

The price/performance ratio is just unbelievable. I was worried changing from 0.95” DC3 chips to 0.47” XPR would downgrade PQ but this unit proof me wrong. Sharper + WCG + High Lumens


ViciousXUSMC said:


> I think it officially supports "up to 150"
> If anything the larger you go, the more you are taking advantage of 4K resolution, but just you will lose output (brightness) and the UST projectors as a whole seem to be more difficult in terms of positioning and focus than long throw alternatives.
> 
> Using a 115" screen I am very happy with the output, I do not think that a 135" would be significantly different.


I'm currently using 114" screen. I would need sometime to setup my AT 135" XYScreen 0.7 gain soon. The area calculation show it would increase from 38.6 ftsq to 54.1 ftsq. That's around 40% increase!


----------



## rjyap

ProjectionHead said:


> My T1 just came in and I plan on cracking it open and taking a look next week. I dont have the energy to scan through 100 pages in this thread; any T1 gurus here willing to chat with me about getting this setup best, updated, etc for the best evaluation experience?
> I have a Wemax Nova on the way as well.
> Much appreciated!


Make sure you get the new firmware updated first. Also, are you going to use external player and what player?


----------



## rjyap

lattiboy said:


> I hope somebody does proper calibrated settings again as I think Gregory’s settings could use an update. They look a bit green to me after the firmware, so I’m sticking with child mode.


I feel I’m under pressure to calibrate it soon. Haven’t request for V2 firmware yet. Again if your screen is not neutral, it will shift the color temp.


----------



## zaselim

Guys i was looking for the T1 placement measurement and found this one, I think it is for Xiaomi C2. Does T1 has the same placing or is it different. I have a 120" screen and i wanna know the height gap between the bottom edge of the screen(display edge, not the border) and the top edge of the sitting where the projector will sit on.


----------



## Ricoflashback

rjyap said:


> I feel I’m under pressure to calibrate it soon. Haven’t request for V2 firmware yet. Again if your screen is not neutral, it will shift the color temp.
> 
> View attachment 3245481


By neutral, do you mean a plain, white screen?


----------



## ProjectionHead

rjyap said:


> Make sure you get the new firmware updated first. Also, are you going to use external player and what player?


Prob the Panasonic UB9000 or the Reavon. Also just picked up a new gaming laptop to play around with MadVR (thanks @JereyWolf for your advice). Also gonna be getting in a demo Zappiti soon too.
lol, too many players to play with


----------



## rjyap

Ricoflashback said:


> By neutral, do you mean a plain, white screen?


Neutral means no color shift on the screen. It can be pure white or shade of grey.


----------



## rjyap

ProjectionHead said:


> Prob the Panasonic UB9000 or the Reavon. Also just picked up a new gaming laptop to play around with MadVR (thanks @JereyWolf for your advice). Also gonna be getting in a demo Zappiti soon too.
> lol, too many players to play with


Too many toys on your hand. MadVR itself if you are not familiar would take quite sometime to get it dial in.


----------



## kapone

zaselim said:


> Guys i was looking for the T1 placement measurement and found this one, *I think it is for Xiaomi C2.* Does T1 has the same placing or is it different. I have a 120" screen and i wanna know the height gap between the bottom edge of the screen(display edge, not the border) and the top edge of the sitting where the projector will sit on.
> View attachment 3245482


It is. I posted that from the Xiaomi C2 manual.


----------



## Ricoflashback

rjyap said:


> Neutral means no color shift on the screen. It can be pure white or shade of grey.


I believe you also mean a 1.0 gain? Will the UST ALR screens with a .4 to .6 gain with their special surfaces affect color shift?


----------



## Adamgoodapp

Deanodxb said:


> Ok thanks - I will try tonight.
> 
> anyone found the missing zoom option in the settings menu yet? Does this appear in the latest alpha firmware?


I couldn’t find the zoom option.



m0j0 said:


> Bluetooth connection for headphones would be cool!


I have connected my AirPod Pros to the T1 no problem.



ProjectionHead said:


> My T1 just came in and I plan on cracking it open and taking a look next week. I dont have the energy to scan through 100 pages in this thread; any T1 gurus here willing to chat with me about getting this setup best, updated, etc for the best evaluation experience?
> I have a Wemax Nova on the way as well.
> Much appreciated!


Some tips: if you’re on the original firmware version of 1.x.
DV can have a pink tint to it, Office brightness mode and DV dark mode can help negate this.

SDR - use Gregory’s settings

HDR - comes out too dark sometimes, you will want to play with the brightness and saturation a little dependent on what you are watching, unfortunately there is no one setting for all.

The HDMI version can get confused after a reboot, I.e you set it to use 2.1 and an external player like Shield will allow 59 hz DV but after a while, it will only recognize 40hz DV. You have to flip between two different hdmi versions in T1 settings to correct.

HDR10+ seems to still not work on original or alpha firmware.

You need to contact Fengmi to update your T1 to the latest alpha 2.0 firmware which fix’s all the above except the HDMI version bug. They will ask for your device serial and MAC address then will push an update over the internet.



3sprit said:


> Which screen are you using?


I ordered a custom 70" Pet crystal 0.6 gain screen UST ALR from XY screens on Ali Baba. Just ordered the material and made my own frame, cost $400 including shipping. Although my DIY build is not perfect and one side is causing warping, I think I’ll order the proper frame. Living in Tokyo means very small apartment, hopefully moving soon and can then graduate to a 120" screen.


----------



## lattiboy

ted_b said:


> A few questions for Fengmi T1 owners/enthusiasts:
> 3) I am currently thinking motorized Stewart Luxus screen, but not sure about unit placement in the non-AT (speaker below screen) setup versus viability and 10.5-11 ft viewing distance for AT (perf) version of the Stewart? The AT version is $2k more, so like almost $6500!!!! Argh. Stewart source was badmouthing much more affordable Seymour Center Stage, and I had a fixed Stewart in past life so I know they are good, but $$$$$, and being UST I know there is very little feedback/experiences.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> View attachment 3245457
> 
> View attachment 3245458


Vividstorm is an excellent option for motorized CLR screens. If you end up with fixed Frame many people swear by XY Screens on Alibaba. They are about 70% cheaper than even budget lines like Elite Screens and use very, very similar material.

I feel spending over $2000 for any screen is a real “diminishing returns” scenario, but with CLR you’re often paying huge markups for the same screen material used in the Chinese screens, but with a moderately better frame.


----------



## m0j0

I recently bought a 100" XYScreen PET Crystal ALR and it really is awesome and very affordable. Just send an email to [email protected] and she will take care of you. Also, you may want to talk to Brian over at projectorscreen.com. He just mentioned a new screen they have in called the Spectra Vantage. Link here: Spectra Projection Vantage 90" UST ALR CLR Projector Screen for Ultra Short Throw Projectors - Spectra Projection SP-V-UST5-90


----------



## ProjectionHead

m0j0 said:


> I recently bought a 100" XYScreen PET Crystal ALR and it really is awesome and very affordable. Just send an email to [email protected] and she will take care of you. Also, you may want to talk to Brian over at projectorscreen.com. He just mentioned a new screen they have in called the Spectra Vantage. Link here: Spectra Projection Vantage 90" UST ALR CLR Projector Screen for Ultra Short Throw Projectors - Spectra Projection SP-V-UST5-90


Here is a pic I recently took comparing several different “CLR” surfaces
Spectra (0.5) and Elite DarkUST (0.5) were almost identical, Grandview (0.4) very similar.
Pics are lights on and lights off.
Got some more samples to add (Stewart and SI) and waiting for Elite regular CLR and CLR4
Have a full size screens from SamsAV and Vividstorm but no swatch to post up next to these but will try to get into the mix.
Bang for buck, Spectra seems the best value when it comes to alr% and black levels, especially since Grandview seems to have closed up shop here in the USA and left us all hanging.


----------



## rjyap

Ricoflashback said:


> I believe you also mean a 1.0 gain? Will the UST ALR screens with a .4 to .6 gain with their special surfaces affect color shift?


 Gain doesn't matter. It depends on the brand/fabric being use. Some 1.0 gain white screen could shift color as the white might be slightly bluish to give a brighter feeling.


----------



## ProjectionHead

rjyap said:


> Too many toys on your hand. MadVR itself if you are not familiar would take quite sometime to get it dial in.


Yeah, so I’ve heard. Was just an excuse to get a new laptop I guess.
Will also likely be getting in a MadVR envy in the demo room when I get too frustrated to play with the software


----------



## ProjectionHead

lattiboy said:


> Vividstorm is an excellent option for motorized CLR screens. If you end up with fixed Frame many people swear by XY Screens on Alibaba. They are about 70% cheaper than even budget lines like Elite Screens and use very, very similar material.
> 
> I feel spending over $2000 for any screen is a real “diminishing returns” scenario, but with CLR you’re often paying huge markups for the same screen material used in the Chinese screens, but with a moderately better frame.


For a motorized screen, especially floor rising, vividstorm is def an amazing bang for your buck.
I posted a pic as a reply to a diff comment in this thread showing several different CLR surfaces, they are definitely not all created equal.
Will be incorporating SI, Stewart swatches into next pic and also have full size vividstorm and screenpro/SamsAV to try and get in comparison as well.


----------



## ted_b

lattiboy said:


> Vividstorm is an excellent option for motorized CLR screens.
> 
> I feel spending over $2000 for any screen is a real “diminishing returns” scenario, but with CLR you’re often paying huge markups for the same screen material used in the Chinese screens, but with a moderately better frame.


Do any of these value screens come in AT (perf or weave), or am I tempting fate by trying to do AT with a UST, motorized at that? I am both concerned about seeing the perfs or weaves at 10.5 ft, but also the ability of the screen to work well at such a huge UST angle. But my center (see earlier pic) would much rather be upright...not a deal killer but nice to have and gives me more room to position the T1 on a small table. Looks like I have about 12" (for a 110" screen) from front of unit to screen surface, and only 15" from table top to bottom of screen (and somehow put my Aeril LR5 horizonatlly in there somewhere).


----------



## zaselim

kapone said:


> It is. I posted that from the Xiaomi C2 manual.


Oh, thanks. I found it in google images lol.


----------



## jeff9n

Directtv999 said:


> How is Fengmi T1 on 135” screen will
> I loose the 4k quality?


T1 looks awesome even on a 165-inch screen


----------



## Ricoflashback

ProjectionHead said:


> Yeah, so I’ve heard. Was just an excuse to get a new laptop I guess.
> Will also likely be getting in a MadVR envy in the demo room when I get too frustrated to play with the software


Regarding the madVR Envy Pro - I’d be interested to see if you could use that with a UST Projector on a scope screen. Also check out the Non-Linear Stretch on a scope screen. It’s supposed to be “set it and forget it“ for all content with fast, automatic switching to fill your screen no matter if the content changes aspect ratio. I think you’ll have a lot of fun with that processor.


----------



## Paladinka47

Yesterday T1 came )
The projector stinks of novelty. How long before the smell disappeared?

We are still ventilating  Outside it is 0 degrees.


----------



## rjyap

Paladinka47 said:


> Yesterday T1 came )
> The projector stinks of novelty. How long before the smell disappeared?
> 
> We are still ventilating  Outside it is 0 degrees.


No funny smell for my unit and I got a sensitive nose. Could detect the faintest fart.


----------



## AlexM89

In summary ...

*1. HDR10 +:* does not work (reported to Formovie - they replied that they are still being tested)

*2. Dolby Vision:* (differences between view and office mode) there are too marked differences on the colorimetry ...
The office mode has a "perfect" colorimetry while in the view mode it changes significantly in everything (pejorative colorimetry). Today I will write to Formovie to ask to improve the balance in view mode, as in terms of brightness it is a fair compromise.

OFFICE MODE 









VIEW MODE










*3. HDR: *I confirm that they have solved the automatic gamma management - in this case the view mode is superior to the office mode. The view mode gives more details in dark scenes, while the office mode the image is more veiled, losing a lot of details. (Today I will write to Formovie with examples)

*4. MEMC:* I confirm that for all contents (NO DV) the image management is softer (set on LOW). There are far fewer artifacts in the faster scenes. This week I will do more in-depth tests (LOW - MEDIUM - HIGH) with film (bluray) and sports. In case other annoying artifacts occur, I report to Formovie to improve the Motion part even more)

*4. HDMI:* they still haven't solved the switching between 2.0 - 2.1 - AUTO ... I will report this too shortly to Formovie

*5. eARC:* Personally I asked to automatically manage the audio output based on the detected input.
That is .... when I turn on the AVR it automatically activates eARC mode, and the audio is played back by the HT, while if I turn off the AVR it must automatically activate the T1 speaker - it still doesn't seem to work ... I'll test better this week


*EDIT: I just reported everything to Formovie...*


----------



## pionoor

Adamgoodapp said:


> I love this device.
> 
> Playing Awaken on my shield TV, latest T1 alpha firmware. Taken pics on my iphone 12 with no editing.
> 
> View mode and DV dark.
> 
> The pic of the girl is a bit more reddish due to my iphone and the real picture looks more pale/correct.
> 
> Maybe other members with better photography skills can post more true images.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3245120
> 
> View attachment 3245119
> 
> View attachment 3245117
> 
> View attachment 3245116
> 
> View attachment 3245118


Can you and the rest who signed up for the alpha firmware give a feedback regarding BT.2020 limited coverage? Also report any limitation or issues that is reported by Gregory's review. Maybe they can increase the coverage to 100% or above. Thanks.


----------



## pionoor

AlexM89 said:


> In summary ...
> 
> *1. HDR10 +:* does not work (reported to Formovie - they replied that they are still being tested)
> 
> *2. Dolby Vision:* (differences between view and office mode) there are too marked differences on the colorimetry ...
> The office mode has a "perfect" colorimetry while in the view mode it changes significantly in everything (pejorative colorimetry). Today I will write to Formovie to ask to improve the balance in view mode, as in terms of brightness it is a fair compromise.
> 
> OFFICE MODE
> View attachment 3245620
> 
> 
> VIEW MODE
> 
> View attachment 3245621
> 
> 
> *3. HDR: *I confirm that they have solved the automatic gamma management - in this case the view mode is superior to the office mode. The view mode gives more details in dark scenes, while the office mode the image is more veiled, losing a lot of details. (Today I will write to Formovie with examples)
> 
> *4. MEMC:* I confirm that for all contents (NO DV) the image management is softer (set on LOW). There are far fewer artifacts in the faster scenes. This week I will do more in-depth tests (LOW - MEDIUM - HIGH) with film (bluray) and sports. In case other annoying artifacts occur, I report to Formovie to improve the Motion part even more)
> 
> *4. HDMI:* they still haven't solved the switching between 2.0 - 2.1 - AUTO ... I will report this too shortly to Formovie
> 
> *5. eARC:* Personally I asked to automatically manage the audio output based on the detected input.
> That is .... when I turn on the AVR it automatically activates eARC mode, and the audio is played back by the HT, while if I turn off the AVR it must automatically activate the T1 speaker - it still doesn't seem to work ... I'll test better this week
> 
> 
> *EDIT: I just reported everything to Formovie...*


Can you and the rest who signed up for the alpha firmware give a feedback regarding BT.2020 limited coverage? Also report any limitation or issues that is reported by Gregory's review. Maybe they can increase the coverage to 100% or above. Thanks.


----------



## AlexM89

pionoor said:


> Can you and the rest who signed up for the alpha firmware give a feedback regarding BT.2020 limited coverage? Also report any limitation or issues that is reported by Gregory's review. Maybe they can increase the coverage to 100% or above. Thanks.


At this moment I cannot use the probe because I have yet to complete the positioning of the screen / T1 ...

Coverage from 90 to 100% the human eye does not perceive the change ...
Honestly it's not something that interests me (personally) right now ..

Having said that ... as soon as I receive an answer from Formovie I take charge of your request and ask Formovie if it is possible to bring the coverage to the limit of 100%

As of today, the important thing is that they take HDR and DV management to a point of reference ... and unlock the full potential for motion management ...

This must be the first development step ...


----------



## pionoor

AlexM89 said:


> At this moment I cannot use the probe because I have yet to complete the positioning of the screen / T1 ...
> 
> Coverage from 90 to 100% the human eye does not perceive the change ...
> Honestly it's not something that interests me (personally) right now ..
> 
> Having said that ... as soon as I receive an answer from Formovie I take charge of your request and ask Formovie if it is possible to bring the coverage to the limit of 100%
> 
> As of today, the important thing is that they take HDR and DV management to a point of reference ... and unlock the full potential for motion management ...
> 
> This must be the first development step ...


Thank you sir!! Maybe you could use Gregory's measurement as reference/evidence when you talk to them. Its a great chance to fix any issues, we wanna take advantage of this opportunity.


----------



## AlexM89

pionoor said:


> Thank you sir!! Maybe you could use Gregory's measurement as reference/evidence when you talk to them. Its a great chance to fix any issues, we wanna take advantage of this opportunity.


Send an email to [email protected] to indicate your requests
The more we report the various corrections to Formovie, the more precise the new versions will be


----------



## Directtv999

Pulled the trigger on T1 yesterday, thanks for all your support on deciding me to get this PJ.


----------



## Ricoflashback

rjyap said:


> No funny smell for my unit and I got a sensitive nose. Could detect the faintest fart.


"Lock in Phasers!"


----------



## Paladinka47

The odor comes from the blowing fans.

I liken it as if the plastic was burning lightly.

Is it normal when I'm only projecting on a white wall, that even though I have sharpness at max, it's not completely sharp?


----------



## Adamgoodapp

As for the new modes added in the firmware update, movie, music etc, they can be found when you hit the power button, I’m not sure exactly what they do, the only difference I can tell is in audio.


----------



## AlexM89

Adamgoodapp said:


> As for the new modes added in the firmware update, movie, music etc, they can be found when you hit the power button, I’m not sure exactly what they do, the only difference I can tell is in audio.


Formovie replied:

About the four options:
theater mode: this is the existing FengOS homepage. 









business mode: mainly for office use, with screen projection, signal source, file management functions. 










situation mode Style:t here are three scenarios: a boat on a lake, a forest in the morning, and a sea breeze. 










Music mode: Bluetooth speaker mode function and K song function.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

I am so exited to try out the new firmware, I sent a email Thursday morning, no response yet.


----------



## zaselim

Guys do i get with the default Chinese OS with language changed to english only or is there any other app else for the complete english language?
The seller asked me if i want it with english software, what software is that if anyone you know about it?


----------



## eezrider

Well, after only a brief look at the new alpha software, I'm not finding this to be a panacea yet. It seems that View mode is now brighter than Office, the color shift in Office is less Magenta. I noticed that Dynamic Contrast now does have a notable effect (maybe not tried on the right material before). On Wonder Woman turning DC off when watching the early assault beach scene significantly improved the gradation of people's faces. I went to look at Ozark on Netflix, which is my reference dark content and found it was darker than ever, needing Contrast at 70+ to be viewable. I also found I had to increase contrast on The King much as before for it to be enjoyable. I'm using an XBox One X to stream and with DV enabled, Netflix, which switches into DV mode, was darker than without DV. It's possible my XBox or the Netflix app is a cause of some of the problems, but I'm not ready to call this a win yet. I need more time to experiment and won't have that until next week, but I'd be cautious about showering too much praise on this without really checking it out.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

zaselim said:


> Guys do i get with the default Chinese OS with language changed to english only or is there any other app else for the complete english language?
> The seller asked me if i want it with english software, what software is that if anyone you know about it?


Just changing the menu language option for you.
Also some people had ProjecTivy installed for them.
Just an app that can be the new loader for the home page.


----------



## m0j0

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Just changing the menu language option for you.
> Also some people had ProjecTivy installed for them.
> Just an app that can be the new loader for the home page.


Is ProjecTivy something we can load ourselves to replace the chinese home page?


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

m0j0 said:


> Is ProjecTivy something we can load ourselves to replace the chinese home page?


Yes, and I think the developer is working on it as we speak for this projector if I am not mistaken.


----------



## zaselim

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Just changing the menu language option for you.
> Also some people had ProjecTivy installed for them.
> Just an app that can be the new loader for the home page.


So the ProjecTivy is only for the Chinese homepage and it doesn't effect the settings options/language. And if i'll be using external device for media (like PC, Streaming device or a console) then I don't have to use or need the Chinese homepage in english (replaced by Projectivy) right?
So i just get it with language set to english from the OS settings.


----------



## lattiboy

eezrider said:


> Well, after only a brief look at the new alpha software, I'm not finding this to be a panacea yet. It seems that View mode is now brighter than Office, the color shift in Office is less Magenta. I noticed that Dynamic Contrast now does have a notable effect (maybe not tried on the right material before). On Wonder Woman turning DC off when watching the early assault beach scene significantly improved the gradation of people's faces. I went to look at Ozark on Netflix, which is my reference dark content and found it was darker than ever, needing Contrast at 70+ to be viewable. I also found I had to increase contrast on The King much as before for it to be enjoyable. I'm using an XBox One X to stream and with DV enabled, Netflix, which switches into DV mode, was darker than without DV. It's possible my XBox or the Netflix app is a cause of some of the problems, but I'm not ready to call this a win yet. I need more time to experiment and won't have that until next week, but I'd be cautious about showering too much praise on this without really checking it out.


There’s something up with your Xbox or the Netflix app. DV content looks very good and while I haven’t watched Ozark, the Witcher is also a very dark show at times and I have zero issues. 

Also, if you have DV enabled how are you adjusting contrast on a DV show? Image adjustments are removed in DV. That leads me to believe something is wrong.


----------



## Ricoflashback

lattiboy said:


> There’s something up with your Xbox or the Netflix app. DV content looks very good and while I haven’t watched Ozark, the Witcher is also a very dark show at times and I have zero issues.
> 
> Also, if you have DV enabled how are you adjusting contrast on a DV show? Image adjustments are removed in DV. That leads me to believe something is wrong.


I suspect that using the XBox One X to stream is the main issue. I don't think you'll find the same results with an Apple TV4K or a Nvidia Shield Pro.


----------



## humax

Paladinka47 said:


> Is it normal when I'm only projecting on a white wall, that even though I have sharpness at max, it's not completely sharp?



The wall seems to be uneven. Sooner or later, you will need a well tensioned ALR screen. Do not cheap out on this projector.


----------



## antjes

First of all, thank you guys for reviews and comments.
I would buy a Fengmi T1 but there is one thing that I can´t pass, no MEMC on Dolby Vision. I´ve been following the thread from the beginning and I know someone has tried but I don’t remember any conclusion about LLDV and MEMC. I have a chinoppo (M9201), as probably you already know this player can play on LLDV (low latency dolby vision- player led option), so my question is: if I use chinoppo with LLDV option, will T1 let to activate MEMC? So can someone try if MEMC is available when using LLDV.
If I can use MEMC on LLDV then I´m in.
My question is coming because when I try this configuration on my set up, chinoppo on LLDV, my TV (HDR ready) detects input as DV and settings available are different from HDR. So how is T1 detecting LLDV input?


----------



## Paladinka47

humax said:


> The wall seems to be uneven. Sooner or later, you will need a well tensioned ALR screen. Do not cheap out on this projector.


So if I understand 
T1 will project sharply on the AVL screen.
I was afraid I had the wrong piece.

Didn't you notice a "plastic smell" when you first started T1? It comes from fans that blow air.


----------



## humax

AlexM89 said:


> Coverage from 90 to 100% the human eye does not perceive the change ...
> Honestly it's not something that interests me (personally) right now ..



I remember reading a post by Lattiboy saying his Bomaker Polaris was a bit richer in certain colors than the T1. I cannot locate it right now within this thread though. Gregory claims the Polaris is a cut-down clone of the Hisense tri-laser and this has a 106% Rec.2020 coverage, so there is no reason Xiaomi/Fengmi should not try to improve their own numbers. However, since the Xiaomi C2 also fell short color-wise, I am starting to suspect this may be a hardware limitation of the current ALPD 3.0 & 4.0 versions, which may be lifted when the ALPD 5.0 laser engine comes out, perhaps with a T2 model in a couple of years.


----------



## Ricoflashback

humax said:


> I remember reading a post by Lattiboy saying his Bomaker Polaris was a bit richer in certain colors than the T1. I cannot locate it right now within this thread though. Gregory claims the Polaris is a cut-down clone of the Hisense tri-laser and this has a 106% Rec.2020 coverage, so there is no reason Xiaomi/Fengmi should not try to improve their own numbers. However, since the Xiaomi C2 also fell short color-wise, I am starting to suspect this may be a hardware limitation of the current ALPD 3.0 & 4.0 versions, which may be lifted when the ALPD 5.0 laser engine comes out, perhaps with a T2 model in a couple of years.


Honestly, do you really think you can see the difference, Humax, between 90% Rec.2020 coverage and 100% or 110%? And a word of caution - - stated color coverage doesn't mean anything - - just like contrast levels. ALPD 4.0 has the secret sauce for black levels on a DLP projector and while there are other DLP projectors with higher stated contrast and color rec. coverage numbers - - it all boils down to how the picture looks. Higher numbers do not automatically equate to a better picture. That's my main take.


----------



## humax

Paladinka47 said:


> So if I understand
> T1 will project sharply on the AVL screen.
> I was afraid I had the wrong piece.
> 
> Didn't you notice a "plastic smell" when you first started T1? It comes from fans that blow air.



Gregory mentioned no focus/softness issues with patterns on his motorized Vividstorm, so I would say your wall is the primary suspect. Even an ALR screen can cause such issues, when not perfectly aligned to the wall (vertically) or fully tensioned.

As for the smell, I don't have mine yet. I 'll probably wait for the global version and any improvements it may bring.


----------



## mirzank

AlexM89 said:


> While for the new menu you have seen changes selecting between theater mode, business mode, situation mode Style?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the Oppo I can test ...
> Above all I have the Spears & Munsil bluray and already from the home screen it tells me if my tv / vpr is compatible with the various formats ...
> As soon as I can I tell you ...
> 
> For MEMC it will never be introduced on DV content.


just checking since yoy said memc will never be introduced on DV content: are you assuming this due to a dv restriction or fengmi plans ? From what I know the xiaomi cinema 2 can do memc on dv. Or am I wrong about this? I’m quite sureI read this somewhere in a review c2 can do memc in dv mode.


----------



## mirzank

Great to see they fixed the red tint issue. Based on what I could understand from the passionhomecimema review the review said that you have to adjust the picture for every source you play. But I couldn’t understand if that was because the T1 can only store one setting only or if because of the red tint issue you have to constantly adjust. With the new firmware, is the need to readjust to every movie/tv show gone ? That was the main thing hindering me ordering one over the xiaomi c2 as there is no way I would go into settings every time I play a tv show or movie.


----------



## humax

Ricoflashback said:


> Honestly, do you really think you can see the difference, Humax, between 90% Rec.2020 coverage and 100% or 110%?



Honestly, probably not with current material. However, when laser engines with lesser contrast do at least 100% of Rec.2020, you should be able to do it too, if you want to claim you have the best laser engine on the market right now. It is more a matter of prestige really.


----------



## Ricoflashback

A screen question but also posted in another area. Very important for folks looking to get the most out of their Fengmi T1 or any UST Projector:

So a question on the Spectra Projection Vantage product (substitute Grandview Dynamique and other, like, lenticular screens) and the lower cost solution - XY Pet Crystal. (By the way - - is there a company behind Spectra? I couldn't find any.)

1. Stated black levels are better on the Spectra versus the XY Pet Crystal.
2. Brightness - XY Pet Crystal probably brighter due to the .8 gain versus a .5 gain.
3. Off Axis viewing - - very important. How do the two compare? I suspect that this is a big advantage for the Spectra product. Not important if you are the only one watching or someone next to you - - but if your bro's are over or a get together for a football game or even another couple visiting to watch a movie - - off axis viewing can be an issue. *Any XY Pet Crystal owners that can comment on off axis viewing & black levels?*
4. Ease of installation, sturdiness, options for mounting (adjustable bracket.) Again, it looks like an advantage for Spectra.
5. Warranty - - obviously, easier to deal with projectorscreen.com than any overseas, Chinese company.
6. Price - - XY Pet Crystal significant advantage at less than half the price of the Spectra Projection Vantage screen.
7. Halo effect - - minimized or totally absent with the Spectra but what about the XY Pet Crystal?

Outside of cost, is the image duller (less bright) with the Spectra Projection Vantage (or comparable screen) compared to the XY Pet Crystal? The XY Pet Crystal looks brighter to me and that would be my biggest concern with the Spectra or any other .4 to .6 screen over the XY Pet Crystal.

Thoughts?


----------



## ted_b

humax said:


> Gregory mentioned no focus/softness issues with patterns on his motorized Vividstorm,


Where is this "Greg's review"? And is it obsolete (or at least needing updating) since it is pre-Alpha firmware fixes?


----------



## humax

ted_b said:


> Where is this "Greg's review"? And is it obsolete (or at least needing updating) since it is pre-Alpha firmware fixes?


Fengmi Formovie T1 test: Gregory's opinion. – – The PHC Blog – (passionhomecinema.fr) 

He has already been informed by Lattiboy, there is an Alpha firmware out and he will also test the global version of T1, when it soon comes out.


----------



## chrisdu46

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Je suis tellement excité d'essayer le nouveau firmware, j'ai envoyé un e-mail jeudi matin, pas encore de réponse.
> [/CITATION]
> J'ai reçu une réponse du support Fengmi concernant l'obtention du firmware Alpha :


----------



## Ricoflashback

Translation - 
I'm so excited to try the new firmware, I emailed Thursday morning, no response yet.
[/QUOTE]
I received a reply from Fengmi support regarding obtaining the Alpha firmware:

Sorry ! We cannot offer you the Alpha version at the moment, because our internal test quota is full.
We plan to release Feng OS 2.0 in mid-March, so stay tuned!
Thank you for supporting our projector!

Cordially,
Cikey


----------



## ted_b

humax said:


> Fengmi Formovie T1 test: Gregory's opinion. – – The PHC Blog – (passionhomecinema.fr)
> 
> He has already been informed by Lattiboy, there is an Alpha firmware out and he will also test the global version of T1, when it soon comes out.


thanks so much


----------



## m0j0

antjes said:


> First of all, thank you guys for reviews and comments.
> I would buy a Fengmi T1 but there is one thing that I can´t pass, no MEMC on Dolby Vision. I´ve been following the thread from the beginning and I know someone has tried but I don’t remember any conclusion about LLDV and MEMC. I have a chinoppo (M9201), as probably you already know this player can play on LLDV (low latency dolby vision- player led option), so my question is: if I use chinoppo with LLDV option, will T1 let to activate MEMC? So can someone try if MEMC is available when using LLDV.
> If I can use MEMC on LLDV then I´m in.
> My question is coming because when I try this configuration on my set up, chinoppo on LLDV, my TV (HDR ready) detects input as DV and settings available are different from HDR. So how is T1 detecting LLDV input?


I am able to use LLDV with the Vertex2 and ATV4K and turn on MEMC on the T1. I don't really like the effect myself so I don't use it, but it did work when I tried it.

Edit: Yep, tested again with two different Netflix shows that are DV and I have the MEMC controls and can set them with LLDV enabled. However, this only works with the hdmi set to 2.1 so the T1's native DV doesn't engage.


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> A screen question but also posted in another area. Very important for folks looking to get the most out of their Fengmi T1 or any UST Projector:
> 
> So a question on the Spectra Projection Vantage product (substitute Grandview Dynamique and other, like, lenticular screens) and the lower cost solution - XY Pet Crystal. (By the way - - is there a company behind Spectra? I couldn't find any.)
> 
> 1. Stated black levels are better on the Spectra versus the XY Pet Crystal.
> 2. Brightness - XY Pet Crystal probably brighter due to the .8 gain versus a .5 gain.
> 3. Off Axis viewing - - very important. How do the two compare? I suspect that this is a big advantage for the Spectra product. Not important if you are the only one watching or someone next to you - - but if your bro's are over or a get together for a football game or even another couple visiting to watch a movie - - off axis viewing can be an issue. *Any XY Pet Crystal owners that can comment on off axis viewing & black levels?*
> 4. Ease of installation, sturdiness, options for mounting (adjustable bracket.) Again, it looks like an advantage for Spectra.
> 5. Warranty - - obviously, easier to deal with projectorscreen.com than any overseas, Chinese company.
> 6. Price - - XY Pet Crystal significant advantage at less than half the price of the Spectra Projection Vantage screen.
> 7. Halo effect - - minimized or totally absent with the Spectra but what about the XY Pet Crystal?
> 
> Outside of cost, is the image duller (less bright) with the Spectra Projection Vantage (or comparable screen) compared to the XY Pet Crystal? The XY Pet Crystal looks brighter to me and that would be my biggest concern with the Spectra or any other .4 to .6 screen over the XY Pet Crystal.
> 
> Thoughts?


I have a XYScreen PET Crystal ALR screen paired with the T1 and I think it looks really, really good! I have no problem with off axis viewing whatsoever with this screen. I can watch it from the kitchen, which is something like 50 or 60 degrees off axis, and it looks insanely bright, and even at an extreme angle in the nook area (80 degrees) and still looks bright.


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> I have a XYScreen PET Crystal ALR screen paired with the T1 and I think it looks really, really good! I have no problem with off axis viewing whatsoever with this screen. I can watch it from the kitchen, which is something like 50 or 60 degrees off axis, and it looks insanely bright, and even at an extreme angle in the nook area (80 degrees) and still looks bright.


Any halo effect - - reflected light on the ceiling? Any overspill on the sides? The frame - - velvet wrapped on the side or metal/aluminum/plastic? Thx - Rico.


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> Any halo effect - - reflected light on the ceiling? Any overspill on the sides? The frame - - velvet wrapped on the side or metal/aluminum/plastic? Thx - Rico.


My screen isn’t that close to the ceiling but no, no issues with light reflecting on ceiling. The T1 is great to work with to get all the light on screen on not on the walls. There is a light border but no really noticeable. And yes, the screen has about a quarter inch border with black velvet. Frame is aluminum.


----------



## Titi_78

Ricoflashback said:


> Any halo effect - - reflected light on the ceiling? Any overspill on the sides? The frame - - velvet wrapped on the side or metal/aluminum/plastic? Thx - Rico.


black velvet 1.2 cm border (have a 90" since 2 years)
no halo or reflect
love finition

no light border if you don't use keystone correction


----------



## indieke2

The firmware comes too late forme. Bought the Xiaomi C 2. My bad experience with the Fengmi C 2, made me lost confidence in fixing things.

Now the Xiaomi is very, very nice, and the picture is nothing to complain about.

Except: rainbow effect. It is not too bad, see it only in some scenes, but it is there. Maybe the Fengmi T1 with the triple laser, not has this at all. Can some people, who are more sensitive to it, confirm this? 

HDR and DV are very nice on the C2, no regrets for that. If the Fengmi handle this also well now, then maybe I should have waited. But again, the C2 is also a killer, just the rainbow effect bothers me from time to time.


----------



## m0j0

indieke2 said:


> The firmware comes too late forme. Bought the Xiaomi C 2. My bad experience with the Fengmi C 2, made me lost confidence in fixing things.
> 
> Now the Xiaomi is very, very nice, and the picture is nothing to complain about.
> 
> Except: rainbow effect. It is not too bad, see it only in some scenes, but it is there. Maybe the Fengmi T1 with the triple laser, not has this at all. Can some people, who are more sensitive to it, confirm this?
> 
> HDR and DV are very nice on the C2, no regrets for that. If the Fengmi handle this also well now, then maybe I should have waited. But again, the C2 is also a killer, just the rainbow effect bothers me from time to time.


I am a little sensitive to RBE but don't see it at all with the T1. Last time I saw that was on an Optoma DLP projector a few years back.


----------



## pionoor

AlexM89 said:


> Send an email to [email protected] to indicate your requests
> The more we report the various corrections to Formovie, the more precise the new versions will be


I did. Here is what was their reply:



Code:


Hi ,
  
Sorry! We cannot push the Alpha version to you currently, because our internal test quota is full.
We expect to officially launch Feng OS 2.0 in mid-March, so stay tuned! 
Thank you for your support of our projector!

Best regards,
Cikey


----------



## rjyap

pionoor said:


> I did. Here is what was their reply:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> Hi ,
> 
> Sorry! We cannot push the Alpha version to you currently, because our internal test quota is full.
> We expect to officially launch Feng OS 2.0 in mid-March, so stay tuned!
> Thank you for your support of our projector!
> 
> Best regards,
> Cikey


Same here. Looks like we have to wait for March release. Those with Alpha version please feedback any issue while testing to the support.


----------



## indieke2

m0j0 said:


> I am a little sensitive to RBE but don't see it at all with the T1. Last time I saw that was on an Optoma DLP projector a few years back.


I saw it on the fengmi C2 a lot, maybe a little bit less on this one. I bought the C2 as there were too many issues when the T1 came out and I was tired of being without projector for over 2 months. For PQ, I not regret, but it would have been nice to not see the rainbows at all. The Xiaomi is for the rest so good and satisfying, that you wonder what the T1 can do better, except not seeing the rainbows. The movie of this evening, I hardly saw one, but on some with a lot of dark scenes and backlight, then it is annoying.


----------



## aerodynamics

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Just give me a bypass switch that physically disconnects the internal speakers from all the internal amplification and a speaker connection so I can externally power them from another device. Cant go wrong with this setup.


I bet if someone were daring enough to tear apart the projector, the speakers can be easily rewired to accept input from an AVR. The only concern would be if there is any sort of "sensing" in place where the PJ throws an error. The reviews and user experience here indicates the audio quality is really good so it would make a great center channel.


----------



## Ricoflashback

aerodynamics said:


> I bet if someone were daring enough to tear apart the projector, the speakers can be easily rewired to accept input from an AVR. The only concern would be if there is any sort of "sensing" in place where the PJ throws an error. The reviews and user experience here indicates the audio quality is really good so it would make a great center channel.


Certainly doable, IMHO. But we'll see if anyone makes a UST PJ with this option. 

I've finally found a cabinet that will house my very large center speaker (Paradigm CC-690 V5 - Dimensions: 10" H × 37.25" W × 16.5" D (25.4cm × 94.6cm × 41.9cm) - Weight: 70 lbs.) with some slight modification that I'm working with the vendor on. What's nice is that the cabinet is large, elegant looking and won't break the bank (that much!) Certainly half the cost of the ridiculously priced UST Cabinets that still don't have a solution for a large center speaker.

There are center slats/doors, as well, that move to the left and the right when you're watching your UST PJ and then close to elegantly hide your components. That's the biggest issue that I see when adopting to a UST projector - how to handle the all important center speaker.


----------



## mirzank

Posting this again as I’m about to order this projector and really would like to know.

Great to see they fixed the red tint issue. Based on what I could understand from the passionhomecimema review the review said that you have to adjust the picture for every source you play. But I couldn’t understand if that was because the T1 can only store one setting only or if because of the red tint issue you have to constantly adjust. With the new firmware, is the need to readjust to every movie/tv show gone ? That was the main thing hindering me ordering one over the xiaomi c2 as there is no way I would go into settings every time I play a tv show or movie.


----------



## aerodynamics

Adamgoodapp said:


> Update notes:
> 
> 
> FengOS2.0.0.2079
> 
> *• TENCENT CLOUD GAME START DELAY OPTIMISATION, DELAY OPTIMISATION TO 8 MILLISECONDS.*



What does this mean? Is it referring to a cloud gaming app included in the menu or did they actually make improvements to input lag? 

Back when I had a HDFury Diva, it came with a probe to measure input lag. Does the Vertex 2 have the same function? Can anyone measure this?


----------



## Titi_78

aerodynamics said:


> What does this mean? Is it referring to a cloud gaming app included in the menu or did they actually make improvements to input lag?
> 
> Back when I had a HDFury Diva, it came with a probe to measure input lag. Does the Vertex 2 have the same function? Can anyone measure this?


It's a cloud gaming platform

Envoyé de mon 2107113SG en utilisant Tapatalk


----------



## lattiboy

mirzank said:


> Posting this again as I’m about to order this projector and really would like to know.
> 
> Great to see they fixed the red tint issue. Based on what I could understand from the passionhomecimema review the review said that you have to adjust the picture for every source you play. But I couldn’t understand if that was because the T1 can only store one setting only or if because of the red tint issue you have to constantly adjust. With the new firmware, is the need to readjust to every movie/tv show gone ? That was the main thing hindering me ordering one over the xiaomi c2 as there is no way I would go into settings every time I play a tv show or movie.





mirzank said:


> Great to see they fixed the red tint issue. Based on what I could understand from the passionhomecimema review the review said that you have to adjust the picture for every source you play. But I couldn’t understand if that was because the T1 can only store one setting only or if because of the red tint issue you have to constantly adjust. With the new firmware, is the need to readjust to every movie/tv show gone ? That was the main thing hindering me ordering one over the xiaomi c2 as there is no way I would go into settings every time I play a tv show or movie.


With the new firmware I feel it handles HDR content about as well as the C2 does, which is very good. I don’t have to change the settings much at alll.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

aerodynamics said:


> I bet if someone were daring enough to tear apart the projector, the speakers can be easily rewired to accept input from an AVR. The only concern would be if there is any sort of "sensing" in place where the PJ throws an error. The reviews and user experience here indicates the audio quality is really good so it would make a great center channel.


Should not be an issue, just wire the internal connections to a resistor to emulate the speaker being present.
I would be more concerned with how the speakers are connected as far as crossovers, and channels. So would you just choose the main speakers, or try to find a way to use all of them, and are all the speakers equally matches as far as frequency response, etc.

Just a matter of testing and something like REW and DIRAC would make short work of finding the best way to configure it.


----------



## eezrider

indieke2 said:


> I saw it on the fengmi C2 a lot, maybe a little bit less on this one. I bought the C2 as there were too many issues when the T1 came out and I was tired of being without projector for over 2 months. For PQ, I not regret, but it would have been nice to not see the rainbows at all. The Xiaomi is for the rest so good and satisfying, that you wonder what the T1 can do better, except not seeing the rainbows. The movie of this evening, I hardly saw one, but on some with a lot of dark scenes and backlight, then it is annoying.


I noticed it somewhat on the Bomaker Polaris but have not seen it on the T1. The convergence is also noticeably better on the T1 than on the Polaris. On the Polaris it was not really a problem at viewing distance, but if you approached the screen at all you could see very noticeable red and green fringes below any white area, so most noticeable on subtitles. Subtitles also had the most noticeable RBE. The T1 is streets ahead of the Polaris - massively better blacks, less convergence, no RBE. The Polaris also needed frequent adjustment.


----------



## eezrider

lattiboy said:


> There’s something up with your Xbox or the Netflix app. DV content looks very good and while I haven’t watched Ozark, the Witcher is also a very dark show at times and I have zero issues.
> 
> Also, if you have DV enabled how are you adjusting contrast on a DV show? Image adjustments are removed in DV. That leads me to believe something is wrong.


With DV enabled on the XBox, then the image is not modifiable as expected. I was referring to when I turn DV off, which I have been doing because DV is notably darker. I'm looking out for a deal on a Roku Ultra which I know you use and enjoy (just missed $30 off 10 days ago!).


----------



## eezrider

Ricoflashback said:


> I suspect that using the XBox One X to stream is the main issue. I don't think you'll find the same results with an Apple TV4K or a Nvidia Shield Pro.


I'm quite prepared to believe that something is up with my XBox/AVR configuration (although I had never noticed any problems with my LG OLED). I'm planning on trying a Roku Ultra, or maybe a Shield to compare. WRT the Shield, I don't see the significance of the Shield Pro version if you don't plan on using their gaming system (please enlighten me if there is some streaming benefit).


----------



## jakechoy

eezrider said:


> I'm quite prepared to believe that something is up with my XBox/AVR configuration (although I had never noticed any problems with my LG OLED). I'm planning on trying a Roku Ultra, or maybe a Shield to compare. WRT the Shield, I don't see the significance of the Shield Pro version if you don't plan on using their gaming system (please enlighten me if there is some streaming benefit).


Shield's AI 4K upscaling is really good..esp for 1080 material. can't say enuff about how good the AI is.


----------



## lattiboy

eezrider said:


> I'm quite prepared to believe that something is up with my XBox/AVR configuration (although I had never noticed any problems with my LG OLED). I'm planning on trying a Roku Ultra, or maybe a Shield to compare. WRT the Shield, I don't see the significance of the Shield Pro version if you don't plan on using their gaming system (please enlighten me if there is some streaming benefit).


The non-pro Shield is incredibly slow. I have one and only use it to watch DV blu ray rips. It’s so slow it’s essentially useless for apps like HBO max and Disney+. Some say the Pro version with its extra RAM is quicker. The Roku Ultra or Apple TV are much faster.


----------



## Ricoflashback

jakechoy said:


> Shield's AI 4K upscaling is really good..esp for 1080 material. can't say enuff about how good the AI is.


Yes - probably the best benefit outside of the backlit remote, which is great in a dark room. All personal preference as the Roku, Apple or Nvidia Shield Pro are going to be better streamers than an Xbox, IMHO. The Nvidia Shield Pro is extremely fast with the great AI 4K upscaling. I tried the Apple TV streamer and didn’t like the interface or the remote.


----------



## m0j0

Been playing around with various picture modes/settings and seeing what I can do with LLDV for HDR and DV, etc. These aren't good pics by any means, and I had full lights on in my kitchen, but still fun to take pics with this projector.


----------



## indieke2

eezrider said:


> I noticed it somewhat on the Bomaker Polaris but have not seen it on the T1. The convergence is also noticeably better on the T1 than on the Polaris. On the Polaris it was not really a problem at viewing distance, but if you approached the screen at all you could see very noticeable red and green fringes below any white area, so most noticeable on subtitles. Subtitles also had the most noticeable RBE. The T1 is streets ahead of the Polaris - massively better blacks, less convergence, no RBE. The Polaris also needed frequent adjustment.


The thing is, my XIaomi is BRAND NEW. I received it, a few days ago. It is the best picture I have ever seen in a projector. So I would not need to upgrade to T 1. I decided for the Xiaomi, because, I had too much HDR problems with the Fengmi C 2. And until the Beta version, this was an issue, I was afraid of, because the Fengmi C 2 , never fixed it.

If I do not need better quality then the Xiaomi, my only issue is the rbe. I hate that. Luckily it is not so often annoying. But in some scenes I really could do without it. So if with 3 lasers, I not get RBE at all (no wheel?) I will try to have the less loss possible on the Xiaomi. But if there is still a chance of rainbows on the T 1, I keep my very satisfying C 2.


----------



## mirzank

lattiboy said:


> With the new firmware I feel it handles HDR content about as well as the C2 does, which is very good. I don’t have to change the settings much at alll.


at this point with the new firmware what is the recommended projector to buy: c2 or t1?
Again basing this on Greg’s review I think I understood he said the t1 was amazing but he couldn’t recommended because he needed to constantly change settings. With the new firmware do you think t1 has the lead ?


----------



## abaintor

Hi, can you tell with the alpha firmware the difference between dolby vision through hdfury and natively?
I want to get dv with memc and this seems to be the only option. Thanks


----------



## antjes

m0j0 said:


> I am able to use LLDV with the Vertex2 and ATV4K and turn on MEMC on the T1. I don't really like the effect myself so I don't use it, but it did work when I tried it.
> 
> Edit: Yep, tested again with two different Netflix shows that are DV and I have the MEMC controls and can set them with LLDV enabled. However, this only works with the hdmi set to 2.1 so the T1's native DV doesn't engage.


Thank you for the fast response.
Ok, now I understand why T1 DV doesn’t engage.
BTW I’m using this splitter to cheat my player and send DV to my tv (HDR ready), maybe it can work with T1, and cheap enough for test purpose…..


Splitter on Amazon


----------



## shanedowley

Someone asked earlier on the thread does the Xiaomi C2 allow for MEMC with native DV engaged. As an owner of a C2 I can confirm that it does not. The only way I know of to have MEMC and Dolby Vision together is to go the HDFury + LLDV route. I’ve done this and it works great. Personally I dislike the effect of MEMC except for sports.


----------



## abaintor

With hdfury you can also tweak color and brightness settings besides enabling memc, but I read earlier that the T1 native dv mode rendered better. But it was before the new firmware so I am just curious wether the hdfury + new firmware could be the perfect mix.


----------



## m0j0

abaintor said:


> With hdfury you can also tweak color and brightness settings besides enabling memc, but I read earlier that the T1 native dv mode rendered better. But it was before the new firmware so I am just curious wether the hdfury + new firmware could be the perfect mix.


I have to agree that the native DV mode renders better. In messing with LLDV on the Vertex2 with HDMI set to 2.1 on the T1, I was getting LLDV from the Vertex2 and had brightness and picture controls and was getting a pretty good picture. But sometimes when I would apply changes to the DV tab, the TV led DV would kick in somewhat unexpectedly/randomly, and when it did, I was very impressed with how much richer things were (and a bit darker too). The interesting thing was that I think it was still using all the color settings from the Vertex2, so skin tones were all good, but then being rendered by the native DV. Unfortunately, it really messed up the look of other shows that were not DV, so I had to switch back to HDMI 2.0 to get other shows to look right (like kids TV shows).


----------



## lattiboy

m0j0 said:


> I have to agree that the native DV mode renders better. In messing with LLDV on the Vertex2 with HDMI set to 2.1 on the T1, I was getting LLDV from the Vertex2 and had brightness and picture controls and was getting a pretty good picture. But sometimes when I would apply changes to the DV tab, the TV led DV would kick in somewhat unexpectedly/randomly, and when it did, I was very impressed with how much richer things were (and a bit darker too). The interesting thing was that I think it was still using all the color settings from the Vertex2, so skin tones were all good, but then being rendered by the native DV. Unfortunately, it really messed up the look of other shows that were not DV, so I had to switch back to HDMI 2.0 to get other shows to look right (like kids TV shows).


Fully agree. I had a pretty good thing going with my Arcana and LLDV, but since the new firmware I’ll be selling it. There is just a huge advantage in color volume and contrast with the T1 DV rendering. Dolby Vision really seems to kick up the performance of the projector substantially, like it’s in “boost mode” or something. No amount of image tinkering can get there, and lord knows I’ve tried!


----------



## Ricoflashback

lattiboy said:


> Fully agree. I had a pretty good thing going with my Arcana and LLDV, but since the new firmware I’ll be selling it. There is just a huge advantage in color volume and contrast with the T1 DV rendering. Dolby Vision really seems to kick up the performance of the projector substantially, like it’s in “boost mode” or something. No amount of image tinkering can get there, and lord knows I’ve tried!


Great to hear that the fixes have worked for DV. Outside of a separate, independent processor like the madVR Envy Pro - - it sounds like you'll be hard pressed to get a better image by tinkering with workarounds like the Arcana and LLDV.

By the way - - *how is the dialog with the native B&W speakers? * Pretty clear? Volume o.k? I don't expect or want much bass so that won't be an issue as far as I'm concerned. We plan on moving out of state to an apartment while we look for a house at our new location. I may not setup a full sound system until then so I'll have to rely on the Fengmi T1's speakers.


----------



## eezrider

eezrider said:


> With DV enabled on the XBox, then the image is not modifiable as expected. I was referring to when I turn DV off, which I have been doing because DV is notably darker. I'm looking out for a deal on a Roku Ultra which I know you use and enjoy (just missed $30 off 10 days ago!).


I found the problem with my Xbox. It is connected to my AVR which was connected to both my LG OLED and the T1. Removing the connection to the OLED caused the T1 to resync which was the clue. The Xbox must be getting EDID info from both displays and I think optimizing for the OLED. Once I disconnected the OLED, the image was correctly displayed. I haven't been able to do much checking but we did watch Quantum of Solace on Netflix using DV. Not a great test but it looked fantastic. Incredible contrast and pop! 

I had discovered the problem with connecting both displays some weeks ago but had forgotten and had reconnected the OLED the same evening I loaded the new software in the T1...


----------



## AlexM89

mirzank said:


> just checking since yoy said memc will never be introduced on DV content: are you assuming this due to a dv restriction or fengmi plans ? From what I know the xiaomi cinema 2 can do memc on dv. Or am I wrong about this? I’m quite sureI read this somewhere in a review c2 can do memc in dv mode.


No it is a restriction of DV not to introduce the MEMC ....


No the C2 does not have the MEMC in DV


----------



## AlexM89

antjes said:


> First of all, thank you guys for reviews and comments.
> I would buy a Fengmi T1 but there is one thing that I can´t pass, no MEMC on Dolby Vision. I´ve been following the thread from the beginning and I know someone has tried but I don’t remember any conclusion about LLDV and MEMC. I have a chinoppo (M9201), as probably you already know this player can play on LLDV (low latency dolby vision- player led option), so my question is: if I use chinoppo with LLDV option, will T1 let to activate MEMC? So can someone try if MEMC is available when using LLDV.
> If I can use MEMC on LLDV then I´m in.
> My question is coming because when I try this configuration on my set up, chinoppo on LLDV, my TV (HDR ready) detects input as DV and settings available are different from HDR. So how is T1 detecting LLDV input?



Cinoppo / oppo have the same restrictions ....
You cannot activate MEMC with DV ....

If you use HDFURY, the original DV will no longer play correctly ...


----------



## AlexM89

Guys after new update does the eARC work for you?

While to all users who have the old FW, does it work correctly there ??

I did several tests .... but the audio does not go through .... it remains silent!


----------



## Adamgoodapp

Ricoflashback said:


> Great to hear that the fixes have worked for DV. Outside of a separate, independent processor like the madVR Envy Pro - - it sounds like you'll be hard pressed to get a better image by tinkering with workarounds like the Arcana and LLDV.
> 
> By the way - - *how is the dialog with the native B&W speakers? * Pretty clear? Volume o.k? I don't expect or want much bass so that won't be an issue as far as I'm concerned. We plan on moving out of state to an apartment while we look for a house at our new location. I may not setup a full sound system until then so I'll have to rely on the Fengmi T1's speakers.


The B&W speakers are really great. Can hear dialogue clearly. You essentially get a really good sound bar with your projector.


----------



## abaintor

AlexM89 said:


> Cinoppo / oppo have the same restrictions ....
> You cannot activate MEMC with DV ....
> 
> If you use HDFURY, the original DV will no longer play correctly ...


Memc is not handled by the player but by the display so this is wrong. You must confound with refresh rate adjustment to the source that most Blu-ray players and streaming players now offer (including appletv, shield…)

All existing displays which support dolby vision let you enable memc (TVs) so this is a crappy answer from fengmi wether dolby requires to disable it. I think this is just a lazy feedback from them (hiding the whole settings menu instead of just hiding color settings while keeping memc option) or they may not have understood well the dolby requirements.


----------



## Deanodxb

Adamgoodapp said:


> The B&W speakers are really great. Can hear dialogue clearly. You essentially get a really good sound bar with your projector.


i second that. The B&W speakers are nothing short of amazing. Full dynamic range for dialogue and action scenes and more than enough power in the amp. Usual watching I never find I need to set the volume more than 10.


----------



## eezrider

AlexM89 said:


> Guys after new update does the eARC work for you?
> 
> While to all users who have the old FW, does it work correctly there ??
> 
> I did several tests .... but the audio does not go through .... it remains silent!


eARC works for me, did before, still does after the upgrade. I use it with a Vizio sound bar. There is some issue adjusting volume via the T1 remote which causes a pop up notification, otherwise works well.


----------



## eezrider

Deanodxb said:


> i second that. The B&W speakers are nothing short of amazing. Full dynamic range for dialogue and action scenes and more than enough power in the amp. Usual watching I never find I need to set the volume more than 10.


Fengmi make a wireless subwoofer and surround speakers that work with the T1. No idea how well they sound, but combined with the built in speakers I guess you'd have a pretty good total audio package. They are sold on alibaba, around $200-300


----------



## GaeIta80

AlexM89 said:


> No it is a restriction of DV not to introduce the MEMC ....
> 
> 
> No the C2 does not have the MEMC in DV


I thought Xiaomi C2 had MEMC with DV...😑


----------



## spocky12

shanedowley said:


> Someone asked earlier on the thread does the Xiaomi C2 allow for MEMC with native DV engaged. As an owner of a C2 I can confirm that it does not. The only way I know of to have MEMC and Dolby Vision together is to go the HDFury + LLDV route. I’ve done this and it works great. Personally I dislike the effect of MEMC except for sports.





abaintor said:


> Memc is not handled by the player but by the display so this is wrong. You must confound with refresh rate adjustment to the source that most Blu-ray players and streaming players now offer (including appletv, shield…)
> 
> All existing displays which support dolby vision let you enable memc (TVs) so this is a crappy answer from fengmi wether dolby requires to disable it. I think this is just a lazy feedback from them (hiding the whole settings menu instead of just hiding color settings while keeping memc option) or they may not have understood well the dolby requirements.


After some reverse engineering, I can confirm both c2 and t1 disable memc while playing DV content (same firmware, same HDMI input app that checks for DV content to specifically disable memc entries in settings). This is not a lazy answer from them, there's literally one "if" in their code to remove this restriction which is here because they decided it should be there (did they interpret DV specs well or not, I can't say).
Can this be worked around, it's too early to say yet.


----------



## abaintor

spocky12 said:


> After some reverse engineering, I can confirm both c2 and t1 disable memc while playing DV content (same firmware, same HDMI input app that checks for DV content to specifically disable memc entries in settings). This is not a lazy answer from them, there's literally one "if" in their code to remove this restriction which is here because they decided it should be there (did they interpret DV specs well or not, I can't say).
> Can this be worked around, it's too early to say yet.


Bravo, good catch, I hope that you will find something out to reactivate it !


----------



## m0j0

Took my screen down and re-hung to try and get a better alignment/setup. Took a few hours but eventually got it back on the wall. Took a pic with Dolby Vision engaged while watching The Witcher. Just love this projector!


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> Took my screen down and re-hung to try and get a better alignment/setup. Took a few hours but eventually got it back on the wall. Took a pic with Dolby Vision engaged while watching The Witcher. Just love this projector!
> 
> View attachment 3246508


Nice--I can't wait for mine to come in!


----------



## loyot

I'm on the fence between fengmi t1 and xiaomi c2. Can anyone confirm that t1 is better choice than xiaomi c2 after the update?


----------



## GaeIta80

loyot said:


> I'm on the fence between fengmi t1 and xiaomi c2. Can anyone confirm that t1 is better choice than xiaomi c2 after the update?


I do think so now, our @lattiboy has got them both so he can suggest you which one is superior after the alpha firmware (2.0 FengOS full fw update coming in 2 weeks as well!)


----------



## driege

Paladinka47 said:


> So if I understand
> T1 will project sharply on the AVL screen.
> I was afraid I had the wrong piece.


Did you adjust the focus already? That seems much more important to your issue than the sharpness setting that you mentioned in your earlier post.


----------



## antjes

I placed my order yesterday, maybe in a couple of weeks I can give my humble opinion about this projector.
It's so difficult making decisión process when no chance to try in person, so thank all early owners for your time and your feedback.

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## tovaxxx

If anyone wants to buy the T1/C2 and Vividstorm screen, i can highly recommend Jason from WUPRO. He makes sensational prices and has a very good service. I am very satisfied.


----------



## loyot

antjes said:


> I placed my order yesterday, maybe in a couple of weeks I can give my humble opinion about this projector.
> It's so difficult making decisión process when no chance to try in person, so thank all early owners for your time and your feedback.
> 
> Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


Agreed. It's difficult to make decision when +2000usd cost involved. So, we need to trust feedback from early owners. Also thanks for their complaints/feedbacks to fengmi to release fixes so us, the upcoming owners can have their T1 without any bugs.


----------



## rjyap

loyot said:


> I'm on the fence between fengmi t1 and xiaomi c2. Can anyone confirm that t1 is better choice than xiaomi c2 after the update?


 With the active feedback and improvement from fengmi support, it would get better. The WCG @ 90% Rec 2020 without need for filter is the game changer for the projector. I keep on impress by PQ vibrant color. Just don’t expect JVC black level but JVC laser could only do DCI-P3 with filter plus 4 times the price.


----------



## Paladinka47

driege said:


> Did you adjust the focus already? That seems much more important to your issue than the sharpness setting that you mentioned in your earlier post.


Not for now 
I tried it on the wall in the room, the kitchen, on the door and still the same picture.
In the focus screen, I have everything to the maximum (left arrow).
Can it be old firmware?


----------



## Paladinka47

Has anyone tried playing Netflix directly on T1 (without Roku ultra, etc.)?
The T1 only plays SD quality even though I have a Netflix Premium Ultra HD - Playback quality is set to High.


----------



## Paladinka47

m0j0 said:


> Took my screen down and re-hung to try and get a better alignment/setup. Took a few hours but eventually got it back on the wall. Took a pic with Dolby Vision engaged while watching The Witcher. Just love this projector!


I envy you such a clear and sharp ! image


----------



## humax

tovaxxx said:


> If anyone wants to buy the T1/C2 and Vividstorm screen, i can highly recommend Jason from WUPRO. He makes sensational prices and has a very good service. I am very satisfied.



I remember you had initially projected on a greyish wall. Do you see noticeable difference now your Vividstorm has arrived? Do you think the screen is worth the extra cost? TIA!


----------



## tovaxxx

Even if it was already very good on the gray wall... With the Vividstorm it is a difference like day and night. It is worth every euro.


----------



## humax

"Paladinka47, post: 61476816, member: 9610128"]
Not for now 
I tried it on the wall in the room, the kitchen, on the door and still the same picture.
In the focus screen, I have everything to the maximum (left arrow).
Can it be old firmware?


This is exactly why I bought the ALR screen before the projector. It is also why I have not opened it yet, because I want to be mentally prepared I will be spending hours trying to set it up as leveled and tensioned as possible. You are wasting your time projecting on a wall. No wall is perfectly flat and bump-free, even if it appears to be.


----------



## abaintor

humax said:


> "Paladinka47, post: 61476816, member: 9610128"]
> Not for now
> I tried it on the wall in the room, the kitchen, on the door and still the same picture.
> In the focus screen, I have everything to the maximum (left arrow).
> Can it be old firmware?
> 
> 
> This is exactly why I bought the ALR screen before the projector. It is also why I have not opened it yet, because I want to be mentally prepared I will be spending hours trying to set it up as leveled and tensioned as possible. You are wasting your time projecting on a wall. No wall is perfectly flat and bump-free, even if it appears to be.


There may be a malfunction on your unit. You should raise a ticket to the support


----------



## Tanizhq

Hey guys, I am thinking of getting a screen to go along with my T1

Most of my light comes from a large window on the left side of the projector, so I doubt a normal ALR screen will do the job as it only seems to affect light from the top. 
Doing some research and seems a Fresnel screen is the way to go, anyone have recommendations or suggestions of which is best? One which won't break the bank hopefully
Ideally a Fixed Frame one


----------



## Paladinka47

This is exactly why I bought the ALR screen before the projector. It is also why I have not opened it yet, because I want to be mentally prepared I will be spending hours trying to set it up as leveled and tensioned as possible. You are wasting your time projecting on a wall. No wall is perfectly flat and bump-free, even if it appears to be.
[/QUOTE]

You're right.


----------



## humax

Tanizhq said:


> Hey guys, I am thinking of getting a screen to go along with my T1
> 
> Most of my light comes from a large window on the left side of the projector, so I doubt a normal ALR screen will do the job as it only seems to affect light from the top.
> Doing some research and seems a Fresnel screen is the way to go, anyone have recommendations or suggestions of which is best? One which won't break the bank hopefully
> Ideally a Fixed Frame one


Fengmi Fresnel Screen F2 100inch Alr Ust Screen 16:9 Alr Projector Screen - Buy Fresnel Projector Screen,Fengmi Projector Screen,Alr Screen Material Product on Alibaba.com 

(34) Fengmi(峰米) Fabulus F2 100" Soft Fresnel Screen | AVS Forum 

Fengmi formovie fabulus f2 flexible fresnel anti-light screen 100 inches 60° wide viewing angle grey Sale - Banggood.com 


The Fengmi F2 seems an affordable and popular choice.


----------



## Paladinka47

abaintor said:


> There may be a malfunction on your unit. You should raise a ticket to the support


That's what I'm afraid of.
During the week I will try an ordinary canvas with a profit of 1.1. I know it's not ALR but maybe it will get better.

What firmware version is on your T1 projectors?


----------



## Tanizhq

humax said:


> Fengmi Fresnel Screen F2 100inch Alr Ust Screen 16:9 Alr Projector Screen - Buy Fresnel Projector Screen,Fengmi Projector Screen,Alr Screen Material Product on Alibaba.com
> 
> (34) Fengmi(峰米) Fabulus F2 100" Soft Fresnel Screen | AVS Forum
> 
> Fengmi formovie fabulus f2 flexible fresnel anti-light screen 100 inches 60° wide viewing angle grey Sale - Banggood.com
> 
> 
> The Fengmi F2 seems an affordable and popular choice.


Has someone tried the Fengmi F2 and know if it any good? Seems hard to find reviews for it. Also what is the performance like compared to a normal ALR screen?


----------



## humax

Tanizhq said:


> Has someone tried the Fengmi F2 and know if it any good? Seems hard to find reviews for it. Also what is the performance like compared to a normal ALR screen?



Fresnel screens offer better light rejection and are optimized for daylight viewing. Their higher gain also boosts a projector's visible brightness. However, their black floor is normally worse than a normal ALR. As for choices you basically have the F2 and the hard/pre-assembled fresnel XY, which you cannot get outside of China due to high weight. I believe Hisense also has a high gain pre-assembled model sold as a bundle.


----------



## m0j0

Tanizhq said:


> Hey guys, I am thinking of getting a screen to go along with my T1
> 
> Most of my light comes from a large window on the left side of the projector, so I doubt a normal ALR screen will do the job as it only seems to affect light from the top.
> Doing some research and seems a Fresnel screen is the way to go, anyone have recommendations or suggestions of which is best? One which won't break the bank hopefully
> Ideally a Fixed Frame one


I don't have a Fresnel, but I saw some pictures of major light reflection onto the ceiling from a few other UST owners who received Fresnel screens, so I wouldn't recommend you go that route. I have the XYScreen PET Crystal ALR screen and it does seem to handle light from the side really well.


----------



## DeanM3

After watching a couple films this weekend I noticed another improvement in the alpha firmware. The audio sync is now more accurate and does not fluctuate during the film. I noticed in the past occasionally I would get a dropped frame or what seemed like a re-rsync, but now that is completely gone. Fengmi mentioned it on their alpha release notes, but I can confirm it actually has made a difference.


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> I don't have a Fresnel, but I saw some pictures of major light reflection onto the ceiling from a few other UST owners who received Fresnel screens, so I wouldn't recommend you go that route. I have the XYScreen PET Crystal ALR screen and it does seem to handle light from the side really well.


Yes - the dreaded “halo effect” above you. A fresnel screen is a definite “no-go” and highly discouraged.


----------



## GaeIta80

tovaxxx said:


> Even if it was already very good on the gray wall... With the Vividstorm it is a difference like day and night. It is worth every euro.


Went 120" vividstorm too! Incoming joy shippinh from WuPro and it costed around $600 less than from Vividstorm directly 😍


----------



## Maqnvm7

Ricoflashback said:


> Yes - the dreaded “halo effect” above you. A fresnel screen is a definite “no-go” and highly discouraged.


Are Vividstorm screens fresnel?


----------



## indieke2

I am still on the C2 of Xiaomi. I think for PQ, there is not much improvement possible, if this T1 with new firmware, that is an achievement. Never a projector blew me away like the C2.

Like I mentioned, also in the C2 thread, I am sensitive to the RBE. Never see them in bright scenes sport, but in dark scenes with lighter parts in it, it is torture. Now are the people here who are sensitive on other projectors to it, who can say if they have no problem with this 3 laser projector?  With any other projector I loose the fantastic PQ, and DV.


----------



## Tanizhq

humax said:


> Fresnel screens offer better light rejection and are optimized for daylight viewing. Their higher gain also boosts a projector's visible brightness. However, their black floor is normally worse than a normal ALR. As for choices you basically have the F2 and the hard/pre-assembled fresnel XY, which you cannot get outside of China due to high weight. I believe Hisense also has a high gain pre-assembled model sold as a bundle.


The Fengmi F2 seems to have a peak gain of 0.9, so it should technically be good for the black floor too right?


----------



## Tanizhq

Ricoflashback said:


> Yes - the dreaded “halo effect” above you. A fresnel screen is a definite “no-go” and highly discouraged.


The F2 seems to have gotten rid of that over the F1 from initial research, as well as hot spotting, so maybe just a feature on older Fresnels


----------



## Ricoflashback

Maqnvm7 said:


> Are Vividstorm screens fresnel?


No - no way that material could roll up and roll down. Fresnel is for fixed screens.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Tanizhq said:


> The F2 seems to have gotten rid of that over the F1 from initial research, as well as hot spotting, so maybe just a feature on older Fresnels


I don't know how you can change the spots on a leopard. I thought the design of a fresnel screen was pretty much standard, so to speak. You'd really have to look at the material and see if it's a standard fresnel design or not.


----------



## Tanizhq

Ricoflashback said:


> No - no way that material could roll up and roll down. Fresnel is for fixed screens.


The F2 Fresnel actually comes rolled up haha, but yeah Vividstorm screens arent Fresnels anyway


----------



## Ricoflashback

Tanizhq said:


> The F2 Fresnel actually comes rolled up haha, but yeah Vividstorm screens arent Fresnels anyway


If I remember right, I believe Hisense offered screens with their earlier UST Projectors. And I believe they came assembled - - hence my memory of their fresnel screens. I've never heard of a rollable, fresnel screen. I'd have to see the pattern since the fresnel screen has a definite look to it. And, courtesy of Brian at projectorscreencom -

*"Because of the thin layer of clear resin on the screen, a fresnel screen only comes as a pre-assembled fixed frame screen."*


















Lenticular Projector Screen Vs. Fresnel Projector Screen for Ultra Short Throws


Which type of ambient light rejecting screen should you get? To get the absolute best picture from an ultra short throw projector, even in a room with ambient light, you need to get a projection screen specifically made for UST projectors (aka...




www.projectorscreen.com





P.S. - kind of confusing description of the fresnel screen you referenced. It's like saying it's hard but it's soft. No jokes, folks...


----------



## tovaxxx

I would like to control my T1 with a Logitech Harmony Elite. Since the remote control works via bluetooth, i do not know how to add the T1 as a device. Does anyone here have a solution? The Vividstorm works perfectly.


----------



## m0j0

I have a reliable methodology right now (before the new firmware is released) for watching shows on the T1. I have HDMI set to 2.1 on the T1 and I have my Vertex2 set to use custom HDR for TX0 and TX1 when input is LLDV, and my ATK4K set to output Dolby Vision. My max luminance (nits) is set to 1000, min luminance (nits) is set to 0.0001, MaxCLL (nits) is set at 943, and MaxFALL (nits) is set at 0, all on the HDR tab on the Vertex2. On the DV tab, I have the MAX luminance set to 110 nits and MIN luminance set to 0.057. These numbers are being reported to the Vertex2 from the T1 so I am going with them over what I had been using previously. This all works great for just about any content, such as HD, 4K/HDR, etc. The exception to this is Dolby Vision. For that, I want to use the native DV from the T1, so I have to go into the Vertex2 and uncheck the box to use custom HDR when input is LLDV, then click create IF and Send HDR. Sometimes I have to check and uncheck the box and then the Dolby Vision on the T1 will kick in (assuming I already have the DV content playing/paused). With this process, I can enjoy all content I have tested. Honestly, I don't watch much DV content in the living room, so mostly I just leave it set as LLDV and it's all good. But when I want to test or watch native DV, I can now do it quickly and reliably so pretty happy with that until we get the new firmware.

On the T1 side, I have custom set to:
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 67
Saturation: 53
Sharpness: 50
Tone: 50
Color Custom: Red Gain: 1000/1500, Green Gain: 1024/1500, Blue Gain: 944/1500 (Gregory's values)
Brightness Mode: Office
HDMI: 2.1
MEMC: Off

This seems to work good, day or night, for most content my family is watching.


----------



## m0j0

And here's a few pictures from one of the kids shows on Netflix my kids watch...


----------



## humax

Tanizhq said:


> The Fengmi F2 seems to have a peak gain of 0.9, so it should technically be good for the black floor too right?



In theory yes, but the cheaper Pet Grid Fengmi ALR has 0.4-0.5 gain, so even lower black floor.

FENGMI 100-Inch Anti-light Projector Black Screen 16:9 Soft Screen 4K HD Home Th Sale - Banggood USA-arrival notice


----------



## humax

Ricoflashback said:


> kind of confusing description of the fresnel screen you referenced. It's like saying it's hard but it's soft. No jokes, folks...



xyscreen Fresnel, PET Crystal, PET Crystal HG comparison - YouTube

Proper fresnel screens are made of the fixed hard type material. Fengmi F2 is the newer and cheaper rollable soft fabric type. I believe the ceiling light leakage problem was reported by users of the Hisense fresnel high gain model.


----------



## humax

GaeIta80 said:


> Went 120" vividstorm too! Incoming joy shippinh from WuPro and it costed around $600 less than from Vividstorm directly 😍



You are in Europe, right? Are import charges included in this price?


----------



## GaeIta80

humax said:


> You are in Europe, right? Are import charges included in this price?


In Italy yes, custom tax expected but can be very low if reported value is under $700 😉


----------



## humax

GaeIta80 said:


> In Italy yes, custom tax expected but can be very low if reported value is under $700 😉


In Greece, you have to provide customs with a printed copy of the Paypal transaction in order for the import process to be completed. Is this not true for your country too?


----------



## zaselim

GaeIta80 said:


> Went 120" vividstorm too! Incoming joy shippinh from WuPro and it costed around $600 less than from Vividstorm directly 😍


Can you give me the link from where you get the screen.


----------



## Tanizhq

humax said:


> In theory yes, but the cheaper Pet Grid Fengmi ALR has 0.4-0.5 gain, so even lower black floor.


Ah but I get a lot of ambient light in my room, so wouldnt a gain of 0.4/0.5 mean that the effective brightness is also a lot lower making it unuable for daytime viewing?


----------



## Timothyyy

Tanizhq said:


> Ah but I get a lot of ambient light in my room, so wouldnt a gain of 0.4/0.5 mean that the effective brightness is also a lot lower making it unuable for daytime viewing?


Lower gain also lower your ambient light. And non-Fresnel screen only rejection lights from the top.


----------



## humax

Tanizhq said:


> Ah but I get a lot of ambient light in my room, so wouldnt a gain of 0.4/0.5 mean that the effective brightness is also a lot lower making it unuable for daytime viewing?


With a 2000 lumens projector, yes this would be a real problem. With the T1 or an even brighter projector, you could probably use it also at daytime, albeit with a flatter, dimmer image than the one you would get with the fresnel. The latter is a better choice for daytime viewing. Alternatively, you can also use a 0.8-0.9 gain pet crystal CLR like the XY someone mentioned earlier, but then the cost goes up. Long story short, you need the highest possible brightness and a decent contrast in order to overcome ambient light or daylight and still be able to get a dynamic image.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Timothyyy said:


> Lower gain also lower your ambient light. And non-Fresnel screen only rejection lights from the top.


That's not what some owners of the lenticular, XY Pet Crystal screen have said - - namely that it does a good job of minimizing reflections from the side, as well. I think there's a tradeoff in searching for the deepest black floor AND viewing during the daytime with a lot of ambient light. The lower the gain, yes, the potential for a better dark floor during the daytime but at night - - which is probably most folks viewing, that lower gain can be a detriment. I wouldn't like to have the fabulous colors of the Fengmi T1 muted down by a low gain screen. Since 95% of my watching will be at night - I'm leaning toward a higher gain screen.


----------



## tovaxxx

Especially at night, a lower gain would be more important, since contrast is then much better.


----------



## Ricoflashback

tovaxxx said:


> Especially at night, a lower gain would be more important, since contrast is then much better.


I totally disagree. At night, that lower gain screen will crush black levels at the expense of vibrant colors. If you were in a man cave - a blackened out, Elvis Velvet environment, you could even use a regular screen or light gray screen with a UST projector. These ALR screens are marketed to say you can replace your 65/75 inch TV in the living room and watch a much bigger picture in the daytime. If you watch mostly in the daytime or always have ambient light, I wouldn't suggest any projector, regardless of the screen. The pics I see of daytime, UST viewing with a low gain ALR screen look washed out and lifeless to me.


----------



## GaeIta80

zaselim said:


> Can you give me the link from where you get the screen.


It's on Alibaba with WuPro guys, just get in touch with them and ask for best quote 😉


----------



## JereyWolf

Does the projector ship with a power cord that is compatible with standard US outlets?


----------



## 3sprit

GaeIta80 said:


> In Italy yes, custom tax expected but can be very low if reported value is under $700 😉


With VAT and customs (which you also pay on shipping costs ...) you have an extra 26%. Furthermore, the customs can ask you for the documentation of the payment made and in this case "you pay VAT and customs on the entire amount".


----------



## lattiboy

JereyWolf said:


> Does the projector ship with a power cord that is compatible with standard US outlets?


No, you’ll need a slim 3 prong cable like this. The one I had laying around was actually a little too bulky around the three prongs and I had to use a Dremel to shave off some of the bulk.

I had requested a US plug, so if you have not ordered yet I would say please make sure they include one. Neither the C2 or T1 came with a US plug even after requesting it.

2-Pack 6.6ft 3 Prong Mickey Mouse Universal TV Power Cord for LG LED LCD Smart 1080p HDTV 32LB580B 32LB5600 32LN570B 42LN5400 42LB5600 42LN5700 42LN5300 47LB5800 47LB5900 50LB5900 55LB5900 UL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HQ2B8X...t_i_CWQP6RV4YTE4T173P3B3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## ted_b

I'm trying to decide between 110" (math seems to fit nicely in between speakers) and 120" (max I can go, and don't want to recess too far behind front soundstage (front of slightly toed-in speakers) or seats to the far left and right might not see that edge of screen.

Anyway.....what are the benefits, with a UST like the T1, in going the smaller of the two? My main listening/viewing position will be approx 11'5" from screen. I assume that distance is slightly more comfortable with 110" than 120". Will the T1 be discernibly brighter or more stable at the slightly smaller diagonal (I know I'm possibly splitting hairs here)?
Thx


----------



## zaselim

lattiboy said:


> No, you’ll need a slim 3 prong cable like this. The one I had laying around was actually a little too bulky around the three prongs and I had to use a Dremel to shave off some of the bulk.
> 
> I had requested a US plug, so if you have not ordered yet I would say please make sure they include one. Neither the C2 or T1 came with a US plug even after requesting it.
> 
> 2-Pack 6.6ft 3 Prong Mickey Mouse Universal TV Power Cord for LG LED LCD Smart 1080p HDTV 32LB580B 32LB5600 32LN570B 42LN5400 42LB5600 42LN5700 42LN5300 47LB5800 47LB5900 50LB5900 55LB5900 UL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HQ2B8X...t_i_CWQP6RV4YTE4T173P3B3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1


What kind of cable T1 has in the box? Can you post the picture of it?


----------



## m0j0

ted_b said:


> I'm trying to decide between 110" (math seems to fit nicely in between speakers) and 120" (max I can go, and don't want to recess too far behind front soundstage (front of slightly toed-in speakers) or seats to the far left and right might not see that edge of screen.
> 
> Anyway.....what are the benefits, with a UST like the T1, in going the smaller of the two? My main listening/viewing position will be approx 11'5" from screen. I assume that distance is slightly more comfortable with 110" than 120". Will the T1 be discernibly brighter or more stable at the slightly smaller diagonal (I know I'm possibly splitting hairs here)?
> Thx


Smaller screen size should be brighter in general.


----------



## JereyWolf

lattiboy said:


> No, you’ll need a slim 3 prong cable like this. The one I had laying around was actually a little too bulky around the three prongs and I had to use a Dremel to shave off some of the bulk.
> 
> I had requested a US plug, so if you have not ordered yet I would say please make sure they include one. Neither the C2 or T1 came with a US plug even after requesting it.
> 
> 2-Pack 6.6ft 3 Prong Mickey Mouse Universal TV Power Cord for LG LED LCD Smart 1080p HDTV 32LB580B 32LB5600 32LN570B 42LN5400 42LB5600 42LN5700 42LN5300 47LB5800 47LB5900 50LB5900 55LB5900 UL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HQ2B8X...t_i_CWQP6RV4YTE4T173P3B3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1


And there are plenty of people using this in the US on 110V power without any issues?


----------



## m0j0

JereyWolf said:


> And there are plenty of people using this in the US on 110V power without any issues?


Yep, no problems with it running on 110V power with the adapter.


----------



## jakechoy

humax said:


> With a 2000 lumens projector, yes this would be a real problem. With the T1 or an even brighter projector, you could probably use it also at daytime, albeit with a flatter, dimmer image than the one you would get with the fresnel. The latter is a better choice for daytime viewing. Alternatively, you can also use a 0.8-0.9 gain pet crystal CLR like the XY someone mentioned earlier, but then the cost goes up. Long story short, you need the highest possible brightness and a decent contrast in order to overcome ambient light or daylight and still be able to get a dynamic image.


crap. I was just about the place the order for the Vividstorm 100" floor raising pro model. Looks like I won't benefit from it even with day time viewing with my side windows since the vividstorm only deals with top down ambient light? I have black out curtains.











without blackout curtains during daytime:











With blackout curtains:


----------



## zoomx2

You need a ALR screen regardless. Pic before I hang the screen on the wall. You could see the difference.


----------



## loco_motion

tovaxxx said:


> I would like to control my T1 with a Logitech Harmony Elite. Since the remote control works via bluetooth, i do not know how to add the T1 as a device. Does anyone here have a solution? The Vividstorm works perfectly.


I have the same Harmony Remote with the Harmony Hub. I was able to use the Amazon Fire TV device in the Harmony Database to control the T1 via bluetooth. I had to fiddle a bit but it seems to work properly now.

The Fire TV profile is able to put the T1 to sleep but not turn it off completely. When the T1 is asleep the Harmony can wake the T1. However, after a few hours my T1 goes from sleep to fully off (is this the same for everyone else?). When the T1 is fully off the harmony remote cannot control it via bluetooth.

To work around this, I programmed the Harmony remote to turn on my nvidia shield which is able to trigger the T1 to turn on even when it is fully off by using HDMI CEC.

Hope this helps and I am curious to find out if you find a better way to setup the Harmony Remote.


----------



## lattiboy

jakechoy said:


> crap. I was just about the place the order for the Vividstorm 100" floor raising pro model. Looks like I won't benefit from it even with day time viewing with my side windows since the vividstorm only deals with top down ambient light? I have black out curtains.
> 
> View attachment 3246906


without blackout curtains during daytime:

View attachment 3246907


[/QUOTE]

My CLR screen (Hisense / Elite Screen Aeon) also blocks out an enormous amount of side light. It just eliminates 95% of ceiling light and a lesser % of side light. This is my T1 with only half the light sources shown. The big thing is no direct light coming from the viewing area. That’s simply impossible to deal with.










and another:


----------



## humax

jakechoy said:


> crap. I was just about the place the order for the Vividstorm 100" floor raising pro model. Looks like I won't benefit from it even with day time viewing with my side windows since the vividstorm only deals with top down ambient light? I have black out curtains.



You will be fine with the Vividstorm. It has similar light rejection skills to other top quality ALRs. Its self-tensioning system is a big plus. Most fixed frame screens I have seen have at least a couple of wavy wrinkles due to inadequate spring tensioning. It is a nightmare to get it right. It's also my fault for not clearing up my comments were mostly about the Pet Grid material the cheaper Fengmi screen uses combined with a lower brightness projector. Sorry for the confusion. Black curtains are a great choice. Even closing simple white curtains cuts down unwanted light. You can partially close blinds. On the other hand, if you are claustrophobic like me and want to watch in broad daylight with all windows open in a very bright living room, you will need a light cannon like the Wemax D30 and a really high gain screen and even then it is a tall order.


----------



## GaeIta80

Hey guys, some answers from Fengmi about HDMI 2.0/2.1 difference, external subwoofer and new FengOS 2.0 fixes

"HDMI2.0 has a bandwidth of 18Gbps and HDMI2.1 has a bandwidth of 48Gbps. Dynamic HDR function differences: HDMI2.0 does not support dynamic HDR, but HDMI2.1 supports.

T1 supports Fengmi 2.1 Channel Home theater audio -- Audience, as for other brands, we haven't tested them yet.

The new version fixes issues such as Dolby Vision and HDR tone mapping, and this will give you a better visual feel.
Also, FengOS2.0 adds multi-mode switching and provides new boot instruction"


----------



## wltam

Hi guys! I need some help before I place my order (T1 + screen). I am pretty new to this game and was wondering which screen you would suggest:

- CBSP: 0.7 Gain (should be identical to vividstorm)

Or

- XYScreen: 0.8 Gain

Thanks!


----------



## humax

wltam said:


> Hi guys! I need some help before I place my order (T1 + screen). I am pretty new to this game and was wondering which screen you would suggest:
> 
> - CBSP: 0.7 Gain (should be identical to vividstorm)
> 
> Or
> 
> - XYScreen: 0.8 Gain
> 
> Thanks!



I would choose option 1. Motorized pull-up screens offer more placement flexibility plus they are plug and play. I got the Vava Pet Grid myself, but since I have not assembled an ALR screen on my own before, setting it up gives me reason to pause (especially proper spring tension). You get rid of all these worries with a Vividstorm-type screen.


----------



## JereyWolf

I tried to find in this thread what calibration controls are available...but I didn't see any specific posts.
It seems that there is definitely no CMS or gamma controls.
Is there 2 or 10 point white balance?

In Gregory's review, he states that in the calibrated mode his lumen output was about 1477 with the light mode set to "night mode".
My question about presets is, are there four light modes for each preset and does changing the luminance via the light modes have an impact on grayscale of each preset?


----------



## Ricoflashback

humax said:


> I would choose option 1. Motorized pull-up screens offer more placement flexibility plus they are plug and play. I got the Vava Pet Grid myself, but since I have not assembled an ALR screen on my own before, setting it up gives me reason to pause (especially proper spring tension). You get rid of all these worries with a Vividstorm-type screen.


The Vividstorm-type screens are convenient but they are low, mechanical (prone to breakdown?) and difficult to use with a center speaker unless you have a small soundbar. Now, if you are in a confined space or do not want to attach a screen to the wall AND you don't have a Dolby Atmos sound system with a large center speaker - - then it can be an option for you. 

A flat, ALR screen should be cheaper and provide a better image, IMHO. Putting together most of the screens available is not too difficult. You could always hire a company to put it together and hang it properly. The biggest issue I have with a Vividstorm-type screen is that it's too low to the ground and there is no place to put my large center speaker and all the components would also be low to the ground in a smaller cabinet. With a fixed screen, as long as you have the ceiling space, it's a "set it and forget it" proposition. Once it's aligned properly, you just enjoy your projector. It's all a matter of personal preference.


----------



## m0j0

jakechoy said:


> crap. I was just about the place the order for the Vividstorm 100" floor raising pro model. Looks like I won't benefit from it even with day time viewing with my side windows since the vividstorm only deals with top down ambient light? I have black out curtains.
> 
> View attachment 3246906
> 
> 
> 
> without blackout curtains during daytime:
> 
> View attachment 3246907
> 
> 
> 
> With blackout curtains:
> View attachment 3246905


My window on the left side is coming from a similar angle and the XYScreen PET Crystal ALR screen handles light from that window really well, though I still mostly keep the blinds closed most of the time.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

In my personal opinion/experience having viewing area with bad lighting while 100% true directly light will wash out the screen, the same light would REFLECT on the TV.
It is so much better to have the screen washed out some rather than be looking at reflections from the TV.

I cant stand glossy computer monitors, the matte finish is what you need to avoid reflections.

If a TV had the matte anti glare screen then it would be far better in direct light conditions, but so far I have not had a TV like this, they are like mirrors.

So in my current situation I have the back patio door, a 3 door glass slider just next too the TV area and it made daytime TV watching pretty much impossible, I changed the vinyl blinds to curtains and fixed the issue, but if just one little sliver of light got on screen the reflection was terribly distracting, with the PJ that same issue is not a big deal.

As a bonus, any lighting I had behind me like a lamp or my "theater" LEDS I had to keep off when I had the TV as in night time all dark viewing those also would reflect on the TV screen. Now with the projector they do not.

So just sharing, as not to dismiss the fact that external lights can wash out and ruin PQ for a projector, but that in direct comparison to the TV, the TV had it's own issues and for me they were worse.

In both cases light control was needed for a good viewing experience.


----------



## 3sprit

GaeIta80 said:


> Hey guys, some answers from Fengmi about HDMI 2.0/2.1 difference, external subwoofer and new FengOS 2.0 fixes
> 
> "HDMI2.0 has a bandwidth of 18Gbps and HDMI2.1 has a bandwidth of 48Gbps. Dynamic HDR function differences: HDMI2.0 does not support dynamic HDR, but HDMI2.1 supports.


Do not trust 









2022 Samsung Q990B 11.1.4 Dolby Atmos / DTSX Soundbar


Does anyone know if the rear speakers will be wireless? Yes, wireless (Bluetooth), and mains powered.




www.avsforum.com













HDMI 2.0 is seemingly being renamed to HDMI 2.1


Researching HDMI cables and ports just became a lot more complicated, as it seems that HDMI 2.0 is being renamed to HDMI 2.1




www.pcinvasion.com


----------



## Ricoflashback

ViciousXUSMC said:


> In my personal opinion/experience having viewing area with bad lighting while 100% true directly light will wash out the screen, the same light would REFLECT on the TV.
> It is so much better to have the screen washed out some rather than be looking at reflections from the TV.
> 
> I cant stand glossy computer monitors, the matte finish is what you need to avoid reflections.
> 
> If a TV had the matte anti glare screen then it would be far better in direct light conditions, but so far I have not had a TV like this, they are like mirrors.
> 
> So in my current situation I have the back patio door, a 3 door glass slider just next too the TV area and it made daytime TV watching pretty much impossible, I changed the vinyl blinds to curtains and fixed the issue, but if just one little sliver of light got on screen the reflection was terribly distracting, with the PJ that same issue is not a big deal.
> 
> As a bonus, any lighting I had behind me like a lamp or my "theater" LEDS I had to keep off when I had the TV as in night time all dark viewing those also would reflect on the TV screen. Now with the projector they do not.
> 
> So just sharing, as not to dismiss the fact that external lights can wash out and ruin PQ for a projector, but that in direct comparison to the TV, the TV had it's own issues and for me they were worse.
> 
> In both cases light control was needed for a good viewing experience.


I don't care where you are or what you watch - direct light will absolute bury a projector screen. Reflections with a LCD or OLED TV? Sure. But no matter where I watch, my man cave or upstairs in our bedroom or our living room, we minimize light reflections as much as possible. Shutters work great - - you can even have the louvers open, pointed up, to have some daylight but nothing on the screen. We have a covered porch and a big patio door but in the daytime, the location of our TV is in the corner, hence no reflections at all. Black out curtains work but they are kinda funky in the daytime. For my LCD TV in my man cave, I have bias lighting behind the TV because the picture is a little stark compared to my OLED. I get less eye fatigue with my current projector compared to a LCD or OLED TV. And I've been watching my PJ at least 95% of the time now. It's hard to go back to a dinky 75" screen.

So, with any environment, controlling your ambient light is the key to the best picture quality. Some rooms are more challenging than others. And you can try to control placement of the lighting in your "TV Room" to minimize reflections. I installed rollup blinds for my man cave area to block light from behind me. I believe UST Projectors, especially in a multipurpose room (think living room) are more of a challenge because you're not in a bat cave. But all doable and worth the effort.


----------



## 3sprit

Ricoflashback said:


> The Vividstorm-type screens are convenient but they are low,











3 Quick Tips for Proper Home-Theater Screen Height


Positioning a flat panel or projection screen in a home theater is a little like holding a fine glass of wine in your hand, according to David Rodgers, marketing manager for Elite Screens. It needs…




www.visualtech.com.sg


----------



## SiUse

Ricoflashback said:


> The Vividstorm-type screens are convenient but they are low, mechanical (prone to breakdown?) and difficult to use with a center speaker unless you have a small soundbar. Now, if you are in a confined space or do not want to attach a screen to the wall AND you don't have a Dolby Atmos sound system with a large center speaker - - then it can be an option for you.


Vividstorm does have a floor rising accoustic transparent screen. So you’re able to place your front speakers behind the screen.


----------



## jakechoy

SiUse said:


> Vividstorm does have a floor rising accoustic transparent screen. So you’re able to place your front speakers behind the screen.


that is correct. Same price too. local vendor has a sale on vividstorm 100" Pro UST model...i think i will get it.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Be weary of an acoustically transparent ALR screen.
I have only seen one so far, and if you look into the details the actual screen material is not acoustically transparent, just the bottom 10 or 12" or so of material before the "screen" material starts.
Might work well if you wanted to use bookshelf speakers for LCR but would fall flat on its face to put large towers behind.

For me I put the LR beyond the screen edges so it would only need a center behind it, and in that case it would be great, since the center is the real challenge. I just would not be willing to bring my screen away from the wall in my livingroom setup, low profile wall mounted is key for viewing and aesthetics and to fit everything in my tiny space.


----------



## jakechoy

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Be weary of an acoustically transparent ALR screen.
> I have only seen one so far, and if you look into the details the actual screen material is not acoustically transparent, just the bottom 10 or 12" or so of material before the "screen" material starts.
> Might work well if you wanted to use bookshelf speakers for LCR but would fall flat on its face to put large towers behind.
> 
> For me I put the LR beyond the screen edges so it would only need a center behind it, and in that case it would be great, since the center is the real challenge. I just would not be willing to bring my screen away from the wall in my livingroom setup, low profile wall mounted is key for viewing and aesthetics and to fit everything in my tiny space.


Correct...I think they just punch holes thru the screen....


----------



## Olive51

Hi everyone,
I was hesitating to take that T1, but the recent comments here about the new firmware made me click on the button 😃
Can't wait to receive it! Ordered on Bangood on Feb24, it has been already shipped out.
I have currently a fengmi 4K cinema Pro.

Next step will be a 100 or 110" vividstorm rising up screen. I saw some good feedback about alibaba Wupro shop. I'm in contact with them. I hope they actually sell Vividstorm and not a bad copy.

I'll post pictures when I receive everything.
Have a good day !


----------



## tovaxxx

I bought a 120 inch Vividstorm from WUPRO and it is original. So everything is fine. And even at the best price.


----------



## mirzank

spocky12 said:


> After some reverse engineering, I can confirm both c2 and t1 disable memc while playing DV content (same firmware, same HDMI input app that checks for DV content to specifically disable memc entries in settings). This is not a lazy answer from them, there's literally one "if" in their code to remove this restriction which is here because they decided it should be there (did they interpret DV specs well or not, I can't say).
> Can this be worked around, it's too early to say yet.


Is memc basically the motion smoothing that tv have ? I hate the effect so I’ll have it off anyway. Or is this something else ? Some reviews were really raving about memc and how critical it is on laser ust’s so I wonder if it’s the same thing or I actually need it.


----------



## ted_b

I've never found a good use of memc ("soap opera effect") but then I've only dealt with it on flat panel tvs, not pjs.


----------



## mirzank

jakechoy said:


> crap. I was just about the place the order for the Vividstorm 100" floor raising pro model. Looks like I won't benefit from it even with day time viewing with my side windows since the vividstorm only deals with top down ambient light? I have black out curtains.
> 
> View attachment 3246906
> 
> 
> 
> without blackout curtains during daytime:
> 
> View attachment 3246907
> 
> 
> 
> With blackout curtains:
> View attachment 3246905


That pictures seems very watchable even without a screen! I currently use a normal led projector without screen and enjoy it a lot and don’t need a screen. Was on the fence about getting a ust and using it without a screen. But based on your picture this totally works for me!!


----------



## m0j0

ted_b said:


> I've never fopund a good use of memc ("soap opera effect") but then I've only dealt with it on flat panel tvs, not pjs.


I've never been a fan of it myself as I don't like how SOE looks. However, I think there is something with 60fps and 24fps that maybe MEMC can be useful for on these type of projectors, but I'm not certain.


----------



## lattiboy

mirzank said:


> Is memc basically the motion smoothing that tv have ? I hate the effect so I’ll have it off anyway. Or is this something else ? Some reviews were really raving about memc and how critical it is on laser ust’s so I wonder if it’s the same thing or I actually need it.


Its just the same motion smoothing. Even on low it looks like a soap opera to me and I always disable it. Only sometimes for sports will I ever put it on.


----------



## mirzank

lattiboy said:


> Its just the same motion smoothing. Even on low it looks like a soap opera to me and I always disable it. Only sometimes for sports will I ever put it on.


Ah yes then it’s useless for me ! Based on one of the reviews on passionhome of the c2 he really praised the memc that’s why I thought maybe it’s something super important ! 

Btw between c2 and new firmware t1 which one would you choose since yoy seem to be the expert ? Is the t1 now hassle free to get amazing picture quality? I want to order one soon so really want to pick the right one.


----------



## zoomx2

From customer support:

“We expect to officially launch Feng OS 2.0 in mid-March, and the new version fixes issues such as Dolby Vision and HDR tone mapping.
so stay tuned! Thank you for your support of our projector!”


----------



## Xspearo

This update did not address the issue with lossing/forgetting 2.1/2.0 HDMI or is it just me? I find myself having to flick back and forth to re-enable. 

Also has anyone had an issue where Netflix would black screen and only have audio? (I'm using Firestick)


----------



## lattiboy

mirzank said:


> Ah yes then it’s useless for me ! Based on one of the reviews on passionhome of the c2 he really praised the memc that’s why I thought maybe it’s something super important !
> 
> Btw between c2 and new firmware t1 which one would you choose since yoy seem to be the expert ? Is the t1 now hassle free to get amazing picture quality? I want to order one soon so really want to pick the right one.


I think the T1 is a better projector and is what I picked, the C2 is smaller, a bit quieter, cheaper, and has no laser speckle. It’s also more accurate out of the box.


----------



## indieke2

lattiboy said:


> I think the T1 is a better projector and is what I picked, the C2 is smaller, a bit quieter, cheaper, and has no laser speckle. It’s also more accurate out of the box.


You had both, so you are in the perfect position to know. I am just surprised of one thing. I waited to buy the C2, before I had the T1 review of Gregory, with the old firmware. I am also afraid that the 3 laser system, could give more problems in his lifetime.

Now, if I am honest, on my vividscreen, the PQ is so good, that I not see , what any other projector could give me more. I find the colors perfect, very natural. Contrast, blacks are so good, skin tone, is too die for! DV, even on netflix, I am watching it, with open mouth. On Toy Boy, the lawyer wear glasses. The purity of her eyes behind them.......

There is only one thing, that makes me wonder, if I not had taken better the T1. I am sensitive to RBE, like I mentioned before. I not see them on bright image, soccer games, nature documentaries. But on dark scene with isolated lightening, even, especially again on netflix, the white subtitles (I then put them in yellow), yes they re kind of bothersome. Especially I like science fiction/space movies. 

With the 3 lasers of the T1 , would it make much difference? Then I choose the wrong projectors, but as I like the C2 so much, I can live with the RBE, I have no choice anyway. And the speckle problem, well if you notice it here and there, an bother you too, as I not like compression effect either. 

For the sound, and center speaker, I not have a Dolby Atmos set up, just a simple 5.1. I know the center speaker is low, but honestly in not bother me at all, I tis very clear.


----------



## abaintor

Ricoflashback said:


> The Vividstorm-type screens are convenient but they are low, mechanical (prone to breakdown?) and difficult to use with a center speaker unless you have a small soundbar. Now, if you are in a confined space or do not want to attach a screen to the wall AND you don't have a Dolby Atmos sound system with a large center speaker - - then it can be an option for you.
> 
> A flat, ALR screen should be cheaper and provide a better image, IMHO. Putting together most of the screens available is not too difficult. You could always hire a company to put it together and hang it properly. The biggest issue I have with a Vividstorm-type screen is that it's too low to the ground and there is no place to put my large center speaker and all the components would also be low to the ground in a smaller cabinet. With a fixed screen, as long as you have the ceiling space, it's a "set it and forget it" proposition. Once it's aligned properly, you just enjoy your projector. It's all a matter of personal preference.


I don’t understand that : the center speaker should be positioned on the floor between the vividstorm and the audience. But the height of the center speaker should be much lower than the bottom part of the picture. Or it means that you have a giant center speaker ?


----------



## Ricoflashback

indieke2 said:


> You had both, so you are in the perfect position to know. I am just surprised of one thing. I waited to buy the C2, before I had the T1 review of Gregory, with the old firmware. I am also afraid that the 3 laser system, could give more problems in his lifetime.
> 
> Now, if I am honest, on my vividscreen, the PQ is so good, that I not see , what any other projector could give me more. I find the colors perfect, very natural. Contrast, blacks are so good, skin tone, is too die for! DV, even on netflix, I am watching it, with open mouth. On Toy Boy, the lawyer wear glasses. The purity of her eyes behind them.......
> 
> There is only one thing, that makes me wonder, if I not had taken better the T1. I am sensitive to RBE, like I mentioned before. I not see them on bright image, soccer games, nature documentaries. But on dark scene with isolated lightening, even, especially again on netflix, the white subtitles (I then put them in yellow), yes they re kind of bothersome. Especially I like science fiction/space movies.
> 
> With the 3 lasers of the T1 , would it make much difference? Then I choose the wrong projectors, but as I like the C2 so much, I can live with the RBE, I have no choice anyway. And the speckle problem, well if you notice it here and there, an bother you too, as I not like compression effect either.
> 
> For the sound, and center speaker, I not have a Dolby Atmos set up, just a simple 5.1. I know the center speaker is low, but honestly in not bother me at all, I tis very clear.
> View attachment 3247117


Well - with the C2 (RB+) - you're only dealing with two lasers - a red and a blue. RBE is an interesting side effect that affects viewers differently. Luckily - - I don't see them with my BenQ bulb TK700STi and hopefully won't see them with the T1 Tri-Laser. I'm not sure whether the T1 would affect you more than the C2 but either way - - you've got a great projector and enjoy! As far as your center channel, I don't know if you can adjust the shelf down a tad and angle the center up. How high is your cabinet? Just curious as I plan on getting one around 21.7" (55.12 cm) high that has enough space for my giant center speaker below. Looking to find a place with 10 foot ceilings which will make it easier to go with the biggest screen I can.


----------



## Ricoflashback

abaintor said:


> I don’t understand that : the center speaker should be positioned on the floor between the vividstorm and the audience. But the height of the center speaker should be much lower than the bottom part of the picture. Or it means that you have a giant center speaker ?


Ah, not really. The center speaker should be at ear level, if possible. (Sitting or reclining, of course.) That's why folks with Acoustic Transparent screens love their setup - - the center channel audio comes right out of the screen in the middle and is seamless with the movie.

This is my center channel:











Paradigm Center Speaker – CC-690 V5
Dimensions: 10" H × 37.25" W × 16.5" D (25.4cm × 94.6cm × 41.9cm)
Weight: 70 lbs.

And here is the solution, cabinet wise. (Furnitech) I'll have the drawers removed and the shelf moved down two inches to accommodate my center speaker. What I love about this design is that the sliding slat doors in front can be moved to the left and right when you are watching your projector and then closed for an elegant, living room look, hiding your components. I'll have an AC Infinity Fan (Aircom T8) venting my AVR out the back (placed on top of the AVR.)


----------



## Ricoflashback

mirzank said:


> That pictures seems very watchable even without a screen! I currently use a normal led projector without screen and enjoy it a lot and don’t need a screen. Was on the fence about getting a ust and using it without a screen. But based on your picture this totally works for me!!


There is a whole section in the AVS Forum on a DIY special process and paint for using your wall as your screen. Depending on your OCD quotient, the bumps and imperfections in drywall can be smoothed out and a special paint used to optimize the picture. It's not going to be the same and as pristine as a fixed screen or even a Vividstorm. But certainly doable. One poster with a regular throw projector and lens memory loves it - - he can switch from a scope screen (any aspect ratio) to a 16 x 9, on his wall, with the push of a button. No guesswork on the size of your screen if it's your wall. Makes setup a breeze. Since we'll be in an apartment for a while why we look for a new house, I might see if the apartment wall works o.k. As long as there are no major defects or holes in the wall - - it can be a "get by" solution.


----------



## jakechoy

mirzank said:


> That pictures seems very watchable even without a screen! I currently use a normal led projector without screen and enjoy it a lot and don’t need a screen. Was on the fence about getting a ust and using it without a screen. But based on your picture this totally works for me!!


which is why i had not ordered the vividstorm screen for the last 2 months.. 😅 

in fact, i had used the wall for the last 3 years with the Xiaomi S1.

the wall had worked very well but folks here kept "pressurizing" to get a proper ALR screen.


----------



## m0j0

loco_motion said:


> I have the same Harmony Remote with the Harmony Hub. I was able to use the Amazon Fire TV device in the Harmony Database to control the T1 via bluetooth. I had to fiddle a bit but it seems to work properly now.
> 
> The Fire TV profile is able to put the T1 to sleep but not turn it off completely. When the T1 is asleep the Harmony can wake the T1. However, after a few hours my T1 goes from sleep to fully off (is this the same for everyone else?). When the T1 is fully off the harmony remote cannot control it via bluetooth.
> 
> To work around this, I programmed the Harmony remote to turn on my nvidia shield which is able to trigger the T1 to turn on even when it is fully off by using HDMI CEC.
> 
> Hope this helps and I am curious to find out if you find a better way to setup the Harmony Remote.


I figured out how to setup a Harmony Hub to turn on and off the T1. You basically need to create a new activity to add a Mac to the Harmony, and then create the activity, and when it asks you to sync the bluetooth, you go into the bluetooth on the T1 and you will see Harmony Remote. Once you complete that and have it paired, then you will save that activity. Then, go and do a new activity, and if you already have an activity like an Apple TV 4k or something, you would select the Apple TV 4k, the AVR and the Mac, then setup all the inputs and things and you should then be able to turn on the AVR, ATV and T1 (you will want to assign a button to the new activity), and when you turn it off, it will turn all the devices off. I put a 10 sec delay in the startup before turning on the T1, just to give the AVR and ATV time to start up first, so that when it starts it will detect an input properly. Also, I was able to map the OK and/or Enter buttons from the T1 to a couple of the unassigned "color" buttons for the ATV4K activity I created. Wanted to do that just in case I somehow need to click that if the projector doesn't wake up or something, that way I don't have to go hunting the T1 remote just for that.

Edit: Here's the link to the MAC instructions:





Harmony and Mac


Learn more about Harmony remote's experience with Mac




support.myharmony.com


----------



## AlexM89

Xspearo said:


> This update did not address the issue with lossing/forgetting 2.1/2.0 HDMI or is it just me? I find myself having to flick back and forth to re-enable.
> 
> Also has anyone had an issue where Netflix would black screen and only have audio? (I'm using Firestick)


Yes.... They haven't solved it ....let's keep writing ...
To me, for example, by setting dynamic contrast to ON or OFF nothing changes...
Yesterday I wrote to them and they told me they turned everything over to assistance

No problem on the firestick for now ...
But I preferred to connect it to the AVR because it doesn't communicate in eARC ...


----------



## dentonc

I realize I’m asking a biased crowd, but how would the T1 compare to a similarly priced long throw projector (e.g. Epson 5050UB or LG HU810P) for a living room TV replacement? I’m currently limited to ~92” diagonal screen size until I do some remodeling. I have decent light control with blackout shades and only a few small windows. Looking to replace an old plasma TV and wanting something that is simple to operate for my wife and kids.


----------



## AlexM89

dentonc said:


> I realize I’m asking a biased crowd, but how would the T1 compare to a similarly priced long throw projector (e.g. Epson 5050UB or LG HU810P) for a living room TV replacement? I’m currently limited to ~92” diagonal screen size until I do some remodeling. I have decent light control with blackout shades and only a few small windows. Looking to replace an old plasma TV and wanting something that is simple to operate for my wife and kids.



As simplicity, the TV remains the best solution ...

A long throw projector is almost impossible to use as a TV replacement due to the ambient light problem ...

So to use streaming platforms and watch TV you need to use external devices (except in some VPR which are all integrated)

That said ... if you want ease of use forget it ...
I personally took the T1 to replace the TV ... and if you don't know how to fiddle around, everyday viewing becomes difficult.


----------



## Tanizhq

Spoke to WuPro, they are going to send me a video comparing the Fengmi F2 Fresnel to a XY PET Screen under daylight conditions and also viewing angles. Will post once I get it.


----------



## Tanizhq

This is what I was sent: F2 on Left, XY on Right

He says the one on the right doesn't block light from the top, but says it is an XY PET screen, so really not sure what that is about.
Honestly its just made this all the more confusing for me


----------



## mirzank

lattiboy said:


> I think the T1 is a better projector and is what I picked, the C2 is smaller, a bit quieter, cheaper, and has no laser speckle. It’s also more accurate out of the box.


Since you’re the expert around here I have a few other questions please 

Size: from what I see the t1 is 55x35x10.7 cm ha c2 is 54x33.5x10.7. So barely any difference at all 1-1.5cm on 2 sides. 

Quieter: t1 according to PHM is 36.6-36.8 db and c2 is 36.8 db. Again no difference atleast as he tested. Did you find that to be not accurate ?

Laser speckle: this is the big one. Are there any pictures of a picture with and without speckle ? I don’t really know what this is. Is it very bothersome ? I remember on my 4k led tv I would see graininess on some blue ray rips but always assumed it was compression issues or how the video was encoded not a tv issue. Is this the same ? I wonder if this is something that would be very bothersome.


----------



## rjyap

AlexM89 said:


> Yes.... They haven't solved it ....let's keep writing ...
> To me, for example, by setting dynamic contrast to ON or OFF nothing changes...
> Yesterday I wrote to them and they told me they turned everything over to assistance
> 
> No problem on the firestick for now ...
> But I preferred to connect it to the AVR because it doesn't communicate in eARC ...


I only observe dynamic contrast on/off in very dark scene. You can pause the scene and check out the changes. Dynamic contrast actually try to brighten the scene but doing so might overblown some of the highlights and worse color gradient. This is on old firmware.


----------



## mirzank

Ricoflashback said:


> There is a whole section in the AVS Forum on a DIY special process and paint for using your wall as your screen. Depending on your OCD quotient, the bumps and imperfections in drywall can be smoothed out and a special paint used to optimize the picture. It's not going to be the same and as pristine as a fixed screen or even a Vividstorm. But certainly doable. One poster with a regular throw projector and lens memory loves it - - he can switch from a scope screen (any aspect ratio) to a 16 x 9, on his wall, with the push of a button. No guesswork on the size of your screen if it's your wall. Makes setup a breeze. Since we'll be in an apartment for a while why we look for a new house, I might see if the apartment wall works o.k. As long as there are no major defects or holes in the wall - - it can be a "get by" solution.


Maybe I’ve forgotten how to browse forums but any chance you could send me a link to where to look or a good guide ? I exactly would prefer paint vs a screen. And my wall is relatively new and flatt’ish.


----------



## m0j0

mirzank said:


> Maybe I’ve forgotten how to browse forums but any chance you could send me a link to where to look or a good guide ? I exactly would prefer paint vs a screen. And my wall is relatively new and flatt’ish.


If you're thinking painted wall, you should send a PM to MississippiMan and get his recommendations.


----------



## m0j0

mirzank said:


> Since you’re the expert around here I have a few other questions please
> 
> Size: from what I see the t1 is 55x35x10.7 cm ha c2 is 54x33.5x10.7. So barely any difference at all 1-1.5cm on 2 sides.
> 
> Quieter: t1 according to PHM is 36.6-36.8 db and c2 is 36.8 db. Again no difference atleast as he tested. Did you find that to be not accurate ?
> 
> Laser speckle: this is the big one. Are there any pictures of a picture with and without speckle ? I don’t really know what this is. Is it very bothersome ? I remember on my 4k led tv I would see graininess on some blue ray rips but always assumed it was compression issues or how the video was encoded not a tv issue. Is this the same ? I wonder if this is something that would be very bothersome.


I think the laser speckle is when you see a lot of sparkles on the color red. I can see this a little bit if there's a lot of red and if I have brightness and saturation turned up a bit, but if I use the built in options like child mode I don't really notice it much. I might be wrong but I think that's what it's about.


----------



## AlexM89

rjyap said:


> I only observe dynamic contrast on/off in very dark scene. You can pause the scene and check out the changes. Dynamic contrast actually try to brighten the scene but doing so might overblown some of the highlights and worse color gradient. This is on old firmware.


It worked perfectly as soon as the FW was released ...
But today it doesn't work anymore .... the image remains the same, both while I stop the film and during playback


----------



## JereyWolf

m0j0 said:


> I think the laser speckle is when you see a lot of sparkles on the color red. I can see this a little bit if there's a lot of red and if I have brightness and saturation turned up a bit, but if I use the built in options like child mode I don't really notice it much. I might be wrong but I think that's what it's about.


The best description I've seen of speckle is that it looks like rainbow mist on the image. The LSP9T had this and it was mildly annoying but nowhere near a deal breaker for me.


----------



## jakechoy

Ricoflashback said:


> There is a whole section in the AVS Forum on a DIY special process and paint for using your wall as your screen. Depending on your OCD quotient, the bumps and imperfections in drywall can be smoothed out and a special paint used to optimize the picture. It's not going to be the same and as pristine as a fixed screen or even a Vividstorm. But certainly doable. One poster with a regular throw projector and lens memory loves it - - he can switch from a scope screen (any aspect ratio) to a 16 x 9, on his wall, with the push of a button. No guesswork on the size of your screen if it's your wall. Makes setup a breeze. Since we'll be in an apartment for a while why we look for a new house, I might see if the apartment wall works o.k. As long as there are no major defects or holes in the wall - - it can be a "get by" solution.


see .... with that...i can't hit the "buy" button on the vividstorm..lol ..with a wall, i never had to worry about focus or setup. even in my previous townhouse with custom front projector wiring, i used a wall.

Yes, the imperfections on the wall sometimes pisses me off..but the convenience...decisions decisions.


----------



## jakechoy

m0j0 said:


> I think the laser speckle is when you see a lot of sparkles on the color red. I can see this a little bit if there's a lot of red and if I have brightness and saturation turned up a bit, but if I use the built in options like child mode I don't really notice it much. I might be wrong but I think that's what it's about.


that was what we saw on the Tri-laser U2. totally unacceptable IMO. Glad I didn't get it and was lucky to be able to demo it.

My take is tri-laser USTs really need a good manufacturer to get it right. Xiaomi/Fengmi definitely does it better than even LG or Samsung or Hisense.


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> I think the laser speckle is when you see a lot of sparkles on the color red. I can see this a little bit if there's a lot of red and if I have brightness and saturation turned up a bit, but if I use the built in options like child mode I don't really notice it much. I might be wrong but I think that's what it's about.


Also - try this link: General "Why Should (or Shouldn't) I Do...

And - you do not have to go to this extent as you can find special paint and have the surface smoothed out as much as possible to blend in with your decor. If all else fails, look to Craigslist for deep discounts on projector screens already assembled from folks who are moving.


----------



## jakechoy

This was what lead me to continue to use a wall after all these years of 3 tube sony projectors to today's UST. This is the PWC Experience Centre where 3 projectors project on the a wall.

(off topic - gonna move this to the DIY Screen section)


----------



## humax

Tanizhq said:


> This is what I was sent: F2 on Left, XY on Right
> 
> He says the one on the right doesn't block light from the top, but says it is an XY PET screen, so really not sure what that is about.
> Honestly its just made this all the more confusing for me



Thank you for sharing this link. The F2 does a bit better under these extreme lighting conditions, but you cannot expect hard fresnel screen performance from it. In a real world scenario, you will have curtains or blinds partially or fully closed in the living room anyway in order to cut down most unwanted light. Again, if you want a clearly visible as well as a dynamic image in broad daylight with windows fully open, you will need something like the Wemax D30 accompanied by a screen with a 2.1-3.0 gain such as the following model. Black levels and night viewing will really suffer with this combo though. It will be blindingly bright.

MirraViz - World's Brightest UST Projector Screen


----------



## Ricoflashback

jakechoy said:


> that was what we saw on the Tri-laser U2. totally unacceptable IMO. Glad I didn't get it and was lucky to be able to demo it.
> 
> My take is tri-laser USTs really need a good manufacturer to get it right. Xiaomi/Fengmi definitely does it better than even LG or Samsung or Hisense.


I suspect if you‘re susceptible to rainbows, you’ll see them on any DLP projector. Laser speckle is a byproduct with these newer DLP’s and I’m not sure how it’s related. I certainly wouldn‘t go looking for them. Which remInds me of a story where a “friend” taught someone who couldn’t see rainbows how to look for them and find them. And then, that person could no longer watch a DLP PJ. Not my type of “friend.”


----------



## mirzank

Ricoflashback said:


> I suspect if you‘re susceptible to rainbows, you’ll see them on any DLP projector. Laser speckle is a byproduct with these newer DLP’s and I’m not sure how it’s related. I certainly wouldn‘t go looking for them. Which remInds me of a story where a “friend” taught someone who couldn’t see rainbows how to look for them and find them. And then, that person could no longer watch a DLP PJ. Not my type of “friend.”


I don’t know if I can see rainbows or not but never bothered me if I can, so I guess the speckle won’t bother me.


----------



## mirzank

Ricoflashback said:


> Also - try this link: General "Why Should (or Shouldn't) I Do...
> 
> And - you do not have to go to this extent as you can find special paint and have the surface smoothed out as much as possible to blend in with your decor. If all else fails, look to Craigslist for deep discounts on projector screens already assembled from folks who are moving.


For me it’s not about the price of the screen but rather how the screen will look in my place. I want a clean wall, clean living room, don’t want a screen there. I currently have a ht2050a from benq projected on a wall and I love the image. If I can get similar from ust I have no reason to buy a screen.


----------



## Tanizhq

humax said:


> Thank you for sharing this link. The F2 does a bit better under these extreme lighting conditions, but you cannot expect hard fresnel screen performance from it. In a real world scenario, you will have curtains or blinds partially or fully closed in the living room anyway in order to cut down most unwanted light. Again, if you want a clearly visible as well as a dynamic image in broad daylight with windows fully open, you will need something like the Wemax D30 accompanied by a screen with a 2.1-3.0 gain such as the following model. Black levels and night viewing will really suffer with this combo though. It will be blindingly bright.
> 
> MirraViz - World's Brightest UST Projector Screen


I asked for another video showing the viewing angle differences and also in darker light conditions ot really see the difference. Very much leaning towards it though as it relatively cheap (only £500/600) and gives me some versatiltiy with daylight and nighttime viewing. As for the difference between a hard and soft fresnel. I found this article: https://c.mi.com/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=3435625&aid=6816578&from=album&page=1


The F2 Soft Fresnel on the Right in both pics, gets rid of a lot of halo effect too it seems.


----------



## Ricoflashback

mirzank said:


> For me it’s not about the price of the screen but rather how the screen will look in my place. I want a clean wall, clean living room, don’t want a screen there. I currently have a ht2050a from benq projected on a wall and I love the image. If I can get similar from ust I have no reason to buy a screen.


I’ve thought about aesthetics. Correct me if I’m wrong but isn’t that a 1080p projector? Do you have it mounted or on a tabletop? Not trying to be deragatory but my older BenQ W1080ST doesn’t hold a candle to my 4K BenQ TK700STi. The 1080p image just isn’t sharp enough for my eyes. You could always go with an electronic screen which is more discreet. I’ll be trying out a wall in an apartment before we find a house this summer. I also thought about a large picture frame surrounding my projector screen with rollable art to look like a picture in the living room when the PJ is not in use. I’ll look at all options to have a nice multipurpose room with my Fengmi T1.


----------



## whiskthecat

Xspearo said:


> This update did not address the issue with lossing/forgetting 2.1/2.0 HDMI or is it just me? I find myself having to flick back and forth to re-enable.





AlexM89 said:


> Yes.... They haven't solved it ....let's keep writing ...


Can someone please upload a video of the problem? Fengmi is requesting it from me but I don't have T1 yet...

"You said that you had to go into menus and flip the HDMI 2.1 setting multiple times to get it to stay on. Could you please show us some pictures and more detailed description？This may be related to the peripherals you are connecting to."


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> I’ve thought about aesthetics. Correct me if I’m wrong but isn’t that a 1080p projector? Do you have it mounted or on a tabletop? Not trying to be deragatory but my older BenQ W1080ST doesn’t hold a candle to my 4K BenQ TK700STi. The 1080p image just isn’t sharp enough for my eyes. You could always go with an electronic screen which is more discreet. I’ll be trying out a wall in an apartment before we find a house this summer. I also thought about a large picture frame surrounding my projector screen with rollable art to look like a picture in the living room when the PJ is not in use. I’ll look at all options to have a nice multipurpose room with my Fengmi T1.


I had an Optoma UHD60 a few years back and initially used a wall only. I thought at the time that the image was good. However, once I added an actual 1.0 gain screen the image improved dramatically. Of course, this was just a regular wall and no special paint was applied. If you want to do a wall, you can definitely get a really good and comparable image to a 1.0 gain screen with proper painted surface (if it's a completely light controlled room). For me though, I much prefer the image quality with a dedicated screen that matches well with the brightness of the projector.


----------



## AlexM89

whiskthecat said:


> Can someone please upload a video of the problem? Fengmi is requesting it from me but I don't have T1 yet...
> 
> "You said that you had to go into menus and flip the HDMI 2.1 setting multiple times to get it to stay on. Could you please show us some pictures and more detailed description？This may be related to the peripherals you are connecting to."


I can do it tonight ...
I'm at work now


----------



## spocky12

mirzank said:


> For me it’s not about the price of the screen but rather how the screen will look in my place. I want a clean wall, clean living room, don’t want a screen there. I currently have a ht2050a from benq projected on a wall and I love the image. If I can get similar from ust I have no reason to buy a screen.


Yes, I'm having the same reflexion (pun intended). One of the side benefits of having a projector is the fact that it's invisible when powered off. My wall is painted light grey with a matte finish. As I'm mostly watching TV in the evening it mostly fits my needs. Of course, having a bay window close to it (luckily facing north), when I watch a movie by daylight (even with curtains closed), I know it could be better contrast-wise but it doesn't happen that often.

The only thing that could make me change my (read: my wife's) mind, is if they made wallpapers that could be glued on the wall with the same matter they build these screens. That way, I would simply replace a grey painted wall with a grey wallpaper, which would probably not interfer with the aestetics of the room.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Tanizhq said:


> I asked for another video showing the viewing angle differences and also in darker light conditions ot really see the difference. Very much leaning towards it though as it relatively cheap (only £500/600) and gives me some versatiltiy with daylight and nighttime viewing. As for the difference between a hard and soft fresnel. I found this article: https://c.mi.com/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=3435625&aid=6816578&from=album&page=1
> 
> 
> The F2 Soft Fresnel on the Right in both pics, gets rid of a lot of halo effect too it seems.
> 
> View attachment 3247321
> 
> View attachment 3247322


That looks pretty nice. Geez, Louise - the Chinese certainly lead in projector development with products like this. I’m not sure of the advantages over a XY Pet Crystal screen. Isn’t the price comparable? Also - available in a 120” size?


----------



## jakechoy

mirzank said:


> For me it’s not about the price of the screen but rather how the screen will look in my place. I want a clean wall, clean living room, don’t want a screen there. I currently have a ht2050a from benq projected on a wall and I love the image. If I can get similar from ust I have no reason to buy a screen.


same rationale as me. I like a clean look. The only option is the vividstorm floor raising screen to maintain that clean look


----------



## mirzank

Ricoflashback said:


> I’ve thought about aesthetics. Correct me if I’m wrong but isn’t that a 1080p projector? Do you have it mounted or on a tabletop? Not trying to be deragatory but my older BenQ W1080ST doesn’t hold a candle to my 4K BenQ TK700STi. The 1080p image just isn’t sharp enough for my eyes. You could always go with an electronic screen which is more discreet. I’ll be trying out a wall in an apartment before we find a house this summer. I also thought about a large picture frame surrounding my projector screen with rollable art to look like a picture in the living room when the PJ is not in use. I’ll look at all options to have a nice multipurpose room with my Fengmi T1.


Yes that’s a 1080p projector and not even the best one. I think I paid like 600$ for it as at the time I wasn’t sure if I’d like having a projector. No mounting or anything, it sits under my shelf, when I need it I just take it out and put it on my coffee table. I just take 2 seconds to adjust it so the picture is straight and that’s enough for me. 

Now I can’t go back to a normal tv. And I don’t like the power cable in the way. That’s why now I want to jump to a ust to avoid the power cable. 

I don’t own a bluray player or anything. Just stream everything from Netflix and Amazon. At night the picture is bright enough that I love it. No curtains drawn or anything. Sits in my living room where one wall is a full 8ft x 20 ft window. It’s watchable during daytime if I lower the blinds and light still coming in through two other windows behind me. 

For me the main thing holding me back from a 4k ust is 1) finding the right one with low noise (the c2 and t1 seem to be fine) 2) ensuring I can still get a comparable quality output without a screen and 3) ensuring it’s as bright as the 2050A (Which is 2200 lumens, so the c2/t1 should be brighter). 
The only other thing I now want to confirm with t1 is if the speckle is a big deal or not. Not sure if there is a video anywhere to see that.


----------



## spocky12

whiskthecat said:


> Can someone please upload a video of the problem? Fengmi is requesting it from me but I don't have T1 yet...
> 
> "You said that you had to go into menus and flip the HDMI 2.1 setting multiple times to get it to stay on. Could you please show us some pictures and more detailed description？This may be related to the peripherals you are connecting to."


As a side information, having the same issue : my setup is an Nvidia Shield plugged into a Yamaha RX-V685 plugged into the T1.
This used to work fine on :

Xiaomi Mi Laser UST Projector 150 (MJJGYY01FM) (AmLogic MiTv Android 6.0)
Fengmi 4K cinema laser (L176FCN) (AmLogic MiTv Android 6.0)
Fengmi 4K cinema pro laser (L176FCNPro) (AmLogic FengOs Android 9.0)
On the T1 however, each time I boot the projector, my Nvidia Shield auto selects 1080p resolution instead of 4k 60Hz, which is not available until I flip the T1 between HDMI 2.1 and HDMI 2.0 (no matter which one is selected when booting, I have to select the other one to force a new handshake that will enable 4K60)


----------



## GaeIta80

Quick one about "Game Mode": have you guys tested if, after the fw update, in terms of better HDR colour/tone mapping? Improved as well by any chance? @lattiboy you gor a PS5 right? Cheers


----------



## mirzank

I know there’s no reviews yet, but from the specs how do you think the t1 or c2 would compare the new lg hu715q?


----------



## Tanizhq

Ricoflashback said:


> That looks pretty nice. Geez, Louise - the Chinese certainly lead in projector development with products like this. I’m not sure of the advantages over a XY Pet Crystal screen. Isn’t the price comparable? Also - available in a 120” size?


Honestly at my distance 100" is more than enough, I actually had my projector at 120" for the SuperBowl but it is too big for regular viewing imo. Completely miss details and things on the edges of the frame and it is a bit higher than I would like on my wall. 
But yeah its a close choice between the XY PET screen and the F2, the reason I'm leaning F2 is because I have a bit more ambient light in my flat, (large windows with cloth vertical blinds, so light always gets through anyway). 

So honestly it will give me more usability during the day, and still will be a huge improvement even during the night since I am just using the wall atm. Improvements either way for me


----------



## Ricoflashback

mirzank said:


> I know there’s no reviews yet, but from the specs how do you think the t1 or c2 would compare the new lg hu715q?


Not well, IMHO. White color, from what I can see, and that's a no-go for me, right out of the gate. Max screen size 120" and a long distance from the wall! That's at the very end of this PJ's focal length, so there could be sharpness issues. Inferior speaker system and of course, no ALPD. Traditional gas, mist, fog and haze of a UST DLP Projector. Supposedly good HDR/DTM. Full review by trusted Mark Henninger of the AVS Forum below:









LG CineBeam HU715Q UST Projector Review & Video Review


The LG HU715Q ultra-short throw projector has an excellent combination of features and performance at an attractive $2,999 price.



www.projectorcentral.com


----------



## m0j0

Tanizhq said:


> Honestly at my distance 100" is more than enough, I actually had my projector at 120" for the SuperBowl but it is too big for regular viewing imo. Completely miss details and things on the edges of the frame and it is a bit higher than I would like on my wall.
> But yeah its a close choice between the XY PET screen and the F2, the reason I'm leaning F2 is because I have a bit more ambient light in my flat, (large windows with cloth vertical blinds, so light always gets through anyway).
> 
> So honestly it will give me more usability during the day, and still will be a huge improvement even during the night since I am just using the wall atm. Improvements either way for me


I opened up full blinds yesterday with my XYScreen PET Crystal screen and it handled the light extremely well!


----------



## AlexM89

mirzank said:


> Yes that’s a 1080p projector and not even the best one. I think I paid like 600$ for it as at the time I wasn’t sure if I’d like having a projector. No mounting or anything, it sits under my shelf, when I need it I just take it out and put it on my coffee table. I just take 2 seconds to adjust it so the picture is straight and that’s enough for me.
> 
> Now I can’t go back to a normal tv. And I don’t like the power cable in the way. That’s why now I want to jump to a ust to avoid the power cable.
> 
> I don’t own a bluray player or anything. Just stream everything from Netflix and Amazon. At night the picture is bright enough that I love it. No curtains drawn or anything. Sits in my living room where one wall is a full 8ft x 20 ft window. It’s watchable during daytime if I lower the blinds and light still coming in through two other windows behind me.
> 
> For me the main thing holding me back from a 4k ust is 1) finding the right one with low noise (the c2 and t1 seem to be fine) 2) ensuring I can still get a comparable quality output without a screen and 3) ensuring it’s as bright as the 2050A (Which is 2200 lumens, so the c2/t1 should be brighter).
> The only other thing I now want to confirm with t1 is if the speckle is a big deal or not. Not sure if there is a video anywhere to see that.


The presence of "speck" is very low / absent with 4k / fullhd content (bluray)
In stream (for compression) is more visible

A few examples with bluray material ....

*With ALR screen*






































*On the wall*


----------



## Ricoflashback

AlexM89 said:


> The presence of "speck" is very low / absent with 4k / fullhd content (bluray)
> In stream (for compression) is more visible
> 
> A few examples with bluray material ....
> 
> *With ALR screen*
> 
> View attachment 3247332
> 
> 
> View attachment 3247333
> 
> 
> View attachment 3247335
> 
> 
> View attachment 3247336
> 
> 
> 
> *On the wall*
> 
> 
> View attachment 3247338
> 
> 
> View attachment 3247339


It's amazing to me the stunning colors on this PJ. Muy rico! Thx for posting.


----------



## zoomx2

dentonc said:


> I realize I’m asking a biased crowd, but how would the T1 compare to a similarly priced long throw projector (e.g. Epson 5050UB or LG HU810P) for a living room TV replacement? I’m currently limited to ~92” diagonal screen size until I do some remodeling. I have decent light control with blackout shades and only a few small windows. Looking to replace an old plasma TV and wanting something that is simple to operate for my wife and kids.


My T1 place in family room to replace my 10 years plasma with 100” screen. Similar to your situation, I am very happy about the unit. Contrast and color are great. If you have blackout blinds it is good during the day. You need a ALR screen for sure. I watch most of my contents through an android media box. After numerous times of setting, I set the media box always on HDR. Turn off dynamic control in custom setting. Brightness 50, contrast 60, color temp standard, view mode. I found it is the best picture I could get currently before new firmware. My iPhone couldn’t capture the real picture, it is a lot brighter.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

> whiskthecat said:
> 
> Can someone please upload a video of the problem? Fengmi is requesting it from me but I don't have T1 yet...
> 
> "You said that you had to go into menus and flip the HDMI 2.1 setting multiple times to get it to stay on. Could you please show us some pictures and more detailed description？This may be related to the peripherals you are connecting to."


So if a video might help I can get one, but it's not much of a "visual" problem its more of a process problem.

It might be easy to blame the peripherals for the issue, especially because as far as I know right now its just the Nvidia Shield owners I have seen key in on this.
If we get other people with say an Apple TV or Roku, Fire TV etc with the same issue that would really strengthen the case.

But here in detail is the issue:

If you set the Shield to output 4K60fps to the projector it sets just fine.
If you put the projector into standby it will resume to this same display setting just fine.

However once the projector goes off, the next time it boots the Shield is now no longer set to display 4K60fps but instead something lower.

In my case it changes from 4K60fps to 4K30fps.

The reason I would think this is an issue with the Projector is if you go back into the shields display settings to change it back to 4K60 the display option is not even available. It's as f the projector is not advertising this as an available resolution and refresh rate. Thus the Shield is smart enough to automatically downgrade to a lower setting rather than give you no picture at all.

To remedy this, going into the display menu on the projector and changing the HDMI mode from 2.0 to 2.1 -OR- from 2.1 to 2.0 once the image comes back on screen the Shield automatically goes back to the correct display mode. It's as if the projector needs to refresh its advertisement of available resolutions and refresh rates, and the only way to make it do that is to change the HDMI mode.

Additional Information:
1.) I never had this problem using the same device(s) on my old TV
2.) I have the projector set to autoboot / auto-on so the Shield comes on first, and then the projector is turned on by its HDMI signal, I am not sure if manually turning the projector on first could change this behavior.

My setup is a Nvidia Shield Pro connected to an Onkyo RZ-50 with the HDMI mode set to 4K Enhanced, with the RZ-50 connected to the Projector, using 8K 48gbps HDMI cables all around.

Later tonight I'll test this theory:
When I boot everything up and I am at 4K30 rather than change the HDMI mode, I will do a full reboot of the Shield. This may cause the projector to "update" its available resolutions and let me pick 4K60 again thus resulting in false results, but if it does not and I am still limited to 4K30 that would be pretty solid proof that the projector is at fault and something needs to be fixed.


----------



## Ricoflashback

ViciousXUSMC said:


> So if a video might help I can get one, but it's not much of a "visual" problem its more of a process problem.
> 
> It might be easy to blame the peripherals for the issue, especially because as far as I know right now its just the Nvidia Shield owners I have seen key in on this.
> If we get other people with say an Apple TV or Roku, Fire TV etc with the same issue that would really strengthen the case.
> 
> But here in detail is the issue:
> 
> If you set the Shield to output 4K60fps to the projector it sets just fine.
> If you put the projector into standby it will resume to this same display setting just fine.
> 
> However once the projector goes off, the next time it boots the Shield is now no longer set to display 4K60fps but instead something lower.
> 
> In my case it changes from 4K60fps to 4K30fps.
> 
> The reason I would think this is an issue with the Projector is if you go back into the shields display settings to change it back to 4K60 the display option is not even available. It's as f the projector is not advertising this as an available resolution and refresh rate. Thus the Shield is smart enough to automatically downgrade to a lower setting rather than give you no picture at all.
> 
> To remedy this, going into the display menu on the projector and changing the HDMI mode from 2.0 to 2.1 -OR- from 2.1 to 2.0 once the image comes back on screen the Shield automatically goes back to the correct display mode. It's as if the projector needs to refresh its advertisement of available resolutions and refresh rates, and the only way to make it do that is to change the HDMI mode.
> 
> Additional Information:
> 1.) I never had this problem using the same device(s) on my old TV
> 2.) I have the projector set to autoboot / auto-on so the Shield comes on first, and then the projector is turned on by its HDMI signal, I am not sure if manually turning the projector on first could change this behavior.
> 
> My setup is a Nvidia Shield Pro connected to an Onkyo RZ-50 with the HDMI mode set to 4K Enhanced, with the RZ-50 connected to the Projector, using 8K 48gbps HDMI cables all around.
> 
> Later tonight I'll test this theory:
> When I boot everything up and I am at 4K30 rather than change the HDMI mode, I will do a full reboot of the Shield. This may cause the projector to "update" its available resolutions and let me pick 4K60 again thus resulting in false results, but if it does not and I am still limited to 4K30 that would be pretty solid proof that the projector is at fault and something needs to be fixed.


Great info! All the posters here do such a great job of describing various issues and fixes for their projector. I already feel like I've been to the "Fengmi T1 Boot Camp" and will be ready once I obtain the T1 in a couple of months. We're moving, otherwise this bad boy would be in my setup already.


----------



## zoomx2

spocky12 said:


> Yes, I'm having the same reflexion (pun intended). One of the side benefits of having a projector is the fact that it's invisible when powered off. My wall is painted light grey with a matte finish. As I'm mostly watching TV in the evening it mostly fits my needs. Of course, having a bay window close to it (luckily facing north), when I watch a movie by daylight (even with curtains closed), I know it could be better contrast-wise but it doesn't happen that often.
> 
> The only thing that could make me change my (read: my wife's) mind, is if they made wallpapers that could be glued on the wall with the same matter they build these screens. That way, I would simply replace a grey painted wall with a grey wallpaper, which would probably not interfer with the aestetics of the room.


They do offer stick on screen. I think they call magnet screen.


----------



## m0j0

zoomx2 said:


> My T1 place in family room to replace my 10 years plasma with 100” screen. Similar to your situation, I am very happy about the unit. Contrast and color are great. If you have blackout blinds it is good during the day. You need a ALR screen for sure. I watch most of my contents through an android media box. After numerous times of setting, I set the media box always on HDR. Turn off dynamic control in custom setting. Brightness 50, contrast 60, color temp standard, view mode. I found it is the best picture I could get currently before new firmware. My iPhone couldn’t capture the real picture, it is a lot brighter.
> View attachment 3247340


I've been playing a lot with settings as well. I ended up setting the ATV4K to 4K SDR for now, as that gives the most consistent image across the content we watch in the living room (a mix of HD and 4k HDR). The only problem with that setup is when it gets to Dolby Vision, which just doesn't look nearly as rich and dynamic with this configuration.


----------



## spocky12

ViciousXUSMC said:


> 2.) I have the projector set to autoboot / auto-on so the Shield comes on first, and then the projector is turned on by its HDMI signal, I am not sure if manually turning the projector on first could change this behavior.


This does the same when I manually turn on the projector.



ViciousXUSMC said:


> Later tonight I'll test this theory:
> When I boot everything up and I am at 4K30 rather than change the HDMI mode, I will do a full reboot of the Shield. This may cause the projector to "update" its available resolutions and let me pick 4K60 again thus resulting in false results, but if it does not and I am still limited to 4K30 that would be pretty solid proof that the projector is at fault and something needs to be fixed.


You can also try to unplug/replug one of your HDMI cable. If a handshake is the source of this issue, this would probably fix it as well (I'll try it tonight).
I'll also try to get the adb logs (the adb logs for hdmi handshaking are really detailed, which make me think they had a hard time getting it to work fine)


----------



## mirzank

AlexM89 said:


> The presence of "speck" is very low / absent with 4k / fullhd content (bluray)
> In stream (for compression) is more visible
> 
> A few examples with bluray material ....


Wow totally amazing what this projector can do even on a wall, which is what I want. I’m totally sold! 
As for speckle, to be honest I don’t even know what I’m looking for which i guess is a good thing if I don’t notice anything off. The only thing I see is in the first picture you posted on the wall (not the lion), there is general graininess in the picture. Is this speckle ? Or is this just how the picture is in the movie ? Does it bother you ?


----------



## whiskthecat

ViciousXUSMC said:


> So if a video might help I can get one, but it's not much of a "visual" problem its more of a process problem.
> 
> It might be easy to blame the peripherals for the issue, especially because as far as I know right now its just the Nvidia Shield owners I have seen key in on this.


I know it's not T1 but a close cousin, I had the exact same issue with Wemax Nova hooked to Windows 10 PC using an Nvidia GTX1060. But yes more examples of other devices would be good proof that it is indeed the projector's fault.

I will collect all this information and if someone posts a video tonight and send to Formovie. Thanks.


----------



## mirzank

Ricoflashback said:


> Not well, IMHO. White color, from what I can see, and that's a no-go for me, right out of the gate. Max screen size 120" and a long distance from the wall! That's at the very end of this PJ's focal length, so there could be sharpness issues. Inferior speaker system and of course, no ALPD. Traditional gas, mist, fog and haze of a UST DLP Projector. Supposedly good HDR/DTM. Full review by trusted Mark Henninger of the AVS Forum below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LG CineBeam HU715Q UST Projector Review & Video Review
> 
> 
> The LG HU715Q ultra-short throw projector has an excellent combination of features and performance at an attractive $2,999 price.
> 
> 
> 
> www.projectorcentral.com


When you say not well, do you mean the lg is inferior to the t1? For me I’m actually preferring white as I think it blends in more and will go well with my sonos arc white. 

When you say long distance from the wall, you mean the t1 has a shorter throw distance ? I thought the difference between 0.233 (t1) and 0.22 (lg) would be almost same? In fact I thought 0.22 means it can get closer to the wall? 

Okay I actually couldn’t find out what the technology they were using, but the review says it’s laser. So alpd laser is superior to the lg laser (which I guess is dlp laser?)

Edit; okay as I read


----------



## Deanodxb

mirzank said:


> For me the main thing holding me back from a 4k ust is 1) finding the right one with low noise (the c2 and t1 seem to be fine) 2) ensuring I can still get a comparable quality output without a screen and 3) ensuring it’s as bright as the 2050A (Which is 2200 lumens, so the c2/t1 should be brighter).


The fans on the T1 are barely audible, even during the shut down process.

I’m currently on a white wall (roller painted) waiting for my XY Screen to arrive.
























(Nightmare Alley)


----------



## JereyWolf

m0j0 said:


> I've been playing a lot with settings as well. I ended up setting the ATV4K to 4K SDR for now, as that gives the most consistent image across the content we watch in the living room (a mix of HD and 4k HDR). The only problem with that setup is when it gets to Dolby Vision, which just doesn't look nearly as rich and dynamic with this configuration.


You have not had the DV/ HDR update yet, right?


----------



## m0j0

JereyWolf said:


> You have not had the DV/ HDR update yet, right?


That is correct.


----------



## zoomx2




----------



## Ricoflashback

Does the Fengmi T1 have a working headphone (3.5mm) jack?


----------



## lattiboy

I sent Fengmi support the issues with HDMI along with screenshots of my Roku Ultra showing the display changes on reboot. I said it happened with the Ultra, PS5, and Shield too. They replied:


----------



## lattiboy

GaeIta80 said:


> Quick one about "Game Mode": have you guys tested if, after the fw update, in terms of better HDR colour/tone mapping? Improved as well by any chance? @lattiboy you gor a PS5 right? Cheers


I’m using it now as I’m playing Sifu which requires incredibly quick response time. It doesn’t seem out of whack as it was pre firmware, but I only used it a handful of times before. I think the issue was I have HDR always on on my PS five and with the previous HDR brightness problems I attributed it to game mode. Using it now it seems totally fine and not any darker or with whacky colors.


----------



## YuriM

GaeIta80 said:


> In Italy yes, custom tax expected but can be very low if reported value is under $700 😉


Poi fammi sapere quanto hai pagato in totale schermo + consegna + IVA


----------



## GaeIta80

lattiboy said:


> I’m using it now as I’m playing Sifu which requires incredibly quick response time. It doesn’t seem out of whack as it was pre firmware, but I only used it a handful of times before. I think the issue was I have HDR always on on my PS five and with the previous HDR brightness problems I attributed it to game mode. Using it now it seems totally fine and not any darker or with whacky colors.


Glad to hear positive upgrades for Gaming as well 👍 😀


----------



## zoomx2

I got a new version firmware. Is it official release?


----------



## zoomx2

2.0.0.2079


----------



## m0j0

zoomx2 said:


> I got a new version firmware. Is it official release?


Interesting...


----------



## Titi_78

zoomx2 said:


> 2.0.0.2079


i confirm
i just receive a notification
Download is in progress

Envoyé de mon 2107113SG en utilisant Tapatalk


----------



## rjyap

mirzank said:


> For me it’s not about the price of the screen but rather how the screen will look in my place. I want a clean wall, clean living room, don’t want a screen there. I currently have a ht2050a from benq projected on a wall and I love the image. If I can get similar from ust I have no reason to buy a screen.


It's not just the material of the screen but also with the velvet black border of the frame that give you a perceived increase of contrast especially in dark scene. This is why some people spend lots of $$$ on automated masking for 16:9 or scope movie. As for me, I just use black out pull down roller curtain to mask the top part and use MPC-HC software to shift the image down to the bottom aka poor man scope screen.


----------



## Ricoflashback

lattiboy said:


> I sent Fengmi support the issues with HDMI along with screenshots of my Roku Ultra showing the display changes on reboot. I said it happened with the Ultra, PS5, and Shield too. They replied:
> 
> View attachment 3247393


Correct me if I'm wrong but it seems like Fengmi Customer Support has been pretty responsive with feedback from owners on lots of issues. Certainly better than a lot of other companies I see where your Email goes into La-La Land.


----------



## rjyap

Ricoflashback said:


> Correct me if I'm wrong but it seems like Fengmi Customer Support has been pretty responsive with feedback from owners on lots of issues. Certainly better than a lot of other companies I see where your Email goes into La-La Land.


Well much better than LG and Optoma for sure.


----------



## Ricoflashback

mirzank said:


> When you say not well, do you mean the lg is inferior to the t1? For me I’m actually preferring white as I think it blends in more and will go well with my sonos arc white.
> 
> When you say long distance from the wall, you mean the t1 has a shorter throw distance ? I thought the difference between 0.233 (t1) and 0.22 (lg) would be almost same? In fact I thought 0.22 means it can get closer to the wall?
> 
> Okay I actually couldn’t find out what the technology they were using, but the review says it’s laser. So alpd laser is superior to the lg laser (which I guess is dlp laser?)
> 
> Edit; okay as I read


If you like a white projector then by all means, seek one out. For a 120" image from the HU715Q, it's around two feet from the back of the projector. That's a lot and also at the end of the focal range. 18" from the back for a 100" screen. ALPD is specific to Appotronics who have been able to get incredible contrast, colors and the removal of gas, mist, fog and haze from a DLP projector. I don't know how they do it or what's in the secret sauce, but everybody's eatin it up.


----------



## GaeIta80

zoomx2 said:


> 2.0.0.2079


Let us know guys what's new and what's been fixed/improved! Game on Fengmi 👍


----------



## JereyWolf

Ricoflashback said:


> Correct me if I'm wrong but it seems like Fengmi Customer Support has been pretty responsive with feedback from owners on lots of issues. Certainly better than a lot of other companies I see where your Email goes into La-La Land.


If I'm right on the timeline from reading through the forum here...it looks like from the original report of HDR issue to roll-out of firmware update is only about a month. If that's accurate, it's pretty amazing. 
I had 3.5 months of shipping my projector back and forth to the service center while Samsung failed to address a defect on the LSP9T. Their customer service was a disaster.


----------



## m0j0

I’ve got it available as well! FengOS 2.0.0.2079. Downloading now…


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> I’ve got it available as well! FengOS 2.0.0.2079. Downloading now…


Let us know if it renders the HDFury solution obsolete.


----------



## zoomx2

color accuracy improved a lot.


----------



## eezrider

ViciousXUSMC said:


> So if a video might help I can get one, but it's not much of a "visual" problem its more of a process problem.
> 
> It might be easy to blame the peripherals for the issue, especially because as far as I know right now its just the Nvidia Shield owners I have seen key in on this.
> If we get other people with say an Apple TV or Roku, Fire TV etc with the same issue that would really strengthen the case.
> 
> But here in detail is the issue:
> 
> If you set the Shield to output 4K60fps to the projector it sets just fine.
> If you put the projector into standby it will resume to this same display setting just fine.
> 
> However once the projector goes off, the next time it boots the Shield is now no longer set to display 4K60fps but instead something lower.
> 
> In my case it changes from 4K60fps to 4K30fps.
> 
> The reason I would think this is an issue with the Projector is if you go back into the shields display settings to change it back to 4K60 the display option is not even available. It's as f the projector is not advertising this as an available resolution and refresh rate. Thus the Shield is smart enough to automatically downgrade to a lower setting rather than give you no picture at all.
> 
> To remedy this, going into the display menu on the projector and changing the HDMI mode from 2.0 to 2.1 -OR- from 2.1 to 2.0 once the image comes back on screen the Shield automatically goes back to the correct display mode. It's as if the projector needs to refresh its advertisement of available resolutions and refresh rates, and the only way to make it do that is to change the HDMI mode.
> 
> Additional Information:
> 1.) I never had this problem using the same device(s) on my old TV
> 2.) I have the projector set to autoboot / auto-on so the Shield comes on first, and then the projector is turned on by its HDMI signal, I am not sure if manually turning the projector on first could change this behavior.
> 
> My setup is a Nvidia Shield Pro connected to an Onkyo RZ-50 with the HDMI mode set to 4K Enhanced, with the RZ-50 connected to the Projector, using 8K 48gbps HDMI cables all around.
> 
> Later tonight I'll test this theory:
> When I boot everything up and I am at 4K30 rather than change the HDMI mode, I will do a full reboot of the Shield. This may cause the projector to "update" its available resolutions and let me pick 4K60 again thus resulting in false results, but if it does not and I am still limited to 4K30 that would be pretty solid proof that the projector is at fault and something needs to be fixed.


I have similar problems playing from my XBox One X passed through a Pioneer AVR. I have not spent the time repro-ing the exact cause but will look and see if the pattern you describe is the same. It's annoying for sure. I have mentioned this to Fengmi support but it will be more effective if I can get a repro like you have. They were pretty dismissive of this so far.


----------



## m0j0

Ok, so at first, after upgrade, I could only do 1080p Dolby Vision or lower resolution on the ATV. I was set to hdmi 2.1 before the upgrade. So, I switched it to 2.0, then back to 2.1, and I was able to get 4K Dolby Vision enabled. So, then I looked at what the Vertex2 is reporting for a signal. It reports 4k59.939 422 bt2020 12b LLDV 593MHz 2.2. Before the upgrade, it would report as HDR and never LLDV, so that is the first good news! Now, I put on a kids nature show on Netflix (if I were an animal) and it engaged TV led Dolby Vision, and the colors looked good and natural. So, again very good! But then, I checked the box on the Vertex2 to “use custom HDR for TX0 and TX1 when input is LLDV” and, man, I tell you what, the picture looked absolutely incredible! Shadow details were better, colors were vibrant and bright and the picture just took on a whole look of 3 dimensionality! Will do some more comparisons with native DV material and see how it goes.


----------



## whiskthecat

ViciousXUSMC said:


> So if a video might help I can get one, but it's not much of a "visual" problem it's more of a process problem.


I get where you are coming from but you have to account for the fact that we are likely dealing with some amount of language barrier. A detailed description is one thing but I think a video showing exactly what you described (projector working properly at 4k60, turn it off/on, now 4k30, flip HDMI revision, back to proper 4k60) trumps that. I'd do it myself if I had the T1 in hand as it seems worthwhile since they appear to actually be responsive.


----------



## zaselim

m0j0 said:


> I’ve got it available as well! FengOS 2.0.0.2079. Downloading now…


Were you part of the ones who were waiting for their alpha firmware and got that (Alpha Version) or it is an official release?


----------



## m0j0

zaselim said:


> Were you part of the ones who were waiting for their alpha firmware and got that (Alpha Version) or it is an official release?


I sent an email requesting the alpha firmware but never received any response, so I assume this is general release.


----------



## m0j0

So far with my testing tonight, I'm still liking the LLDV configuration a bit more than the native DV.


----------



## lattiboy

m0j0 said:


> So far with my testing tonight, I'm still liking the LLDV configuration a bit more than the native DV.


I didn’t sell the Arcana yet. Will check if the DV fix made the Arcana worthwhile. What are your min/max Lumen settings for HDR? I can’t do the advanced Vertex editing, but I can do LLDV and custom Lumen range.


----------



## m0j0

Also, and this may just be my imagination, but the image seems even sharper than before. On two or 3 different close ups in diffferent shows/movies, I'm noticing a lot more facial texture.


----------



## m0j0

lattiboy said:


> I didn’t sell the Arcana yet. Will check if the DV fix made the Arcana worthwhile. What are your min/max Lumen settings for HDR? I can’t do the advanced Vertex editing, but I can do LLDV and custom Lumen range.


For DV, my max luminance (nits) is at 300, and min luminance (nits) is at 0.057. On the HDR tab, I'm set to 1000 for max luminance, .0001 for min luminance, 943 for MaxCLL and zero for MaxFALL.

Then I use custom mode settings with 48/49 brightness and 72/73 contrast


----------



## irmongoose

I am not seeing the new firmware, it’s saying 1.4.6.1938 is the latest available. Note, I have not contacted Fengmi with my serial number. Perhaps they’ve expanded the alpha tester group?

Also, unrelated note, has anyone with a Vividstorm floor rising and T1 had any luck in getting the usb trigger to work? My screen does rise when I turn the T1 on but does not close on power off, regardless of “standby” through an external device or manually turning off via the T1 remote.


----------



## GaeIta80

m0j0 said:


> Ok, so at first, after upgrade, I could only do 1080p Dolby Vision or lower resolution on the ATV. I was set to hdmi 2.1 before the upgrade. So, I switched it to 2.0, then back to 2.1, and I was able to get 4K Dolby Vision enabled. So, then I looked at what the Vertex2 is reporting for a signal. It reports 4k59.939 422 bt2020 12b LLDV 593MHz 2.2. Before the upgrade, it would report as HDR and never LLDV, so that is the first good news! Now, I put on a kids nature show on Netflix (if I were an animal) and it engaged TV led Dolby Vision, and the colors looked good and natural. So, again very good! But then, I checked the box on the Vertex2 to “use custom HDR for TX0 and TX1 when input is LLDV” and, man, I tell you what, the picture looked absolutely incredible! Shadow details were better, colors were vibrant and bright and the picture just took on a whole look of 3 dimensionality! Will do some more comparisons with native DV material and see how it goes.


Excing news! Which image settings did you use for HDR? DV office/dark still the best combo?


----------



## Maqnvm7

m0j0 said:


> Ok, so at first, after upgrade, I could only do 1080p Dolby Vision or lower resolution on the ATV. I was set to hdmi 2.1 before the upgrade. So, I switched it to 2.0, then back to 2.1, and I was able to get 4K Dolby Vision enabled. So, then I looked at what the Vertex2 is reporting for a signal. It reports 4k59.939 422 bt2020 12b LLDV 593MHz 2.2. Before the upgrade, it would report as HDR and never LLDV, so that is the first good news! Now, I put on a kids nature show on Netflix (if I were an animal) and it engaged TV led Dolby Vision, and the colors looked good and natural. So, again very good! But then, I checked the box on the Vertex2 to “use custom HDR for TX0 and TX1 when input is LLDV” and, man, I tell you what, the picture looked absolutely incredible! Shadow details were better, colors were vibrant and bright and the picture just took on a whole look of 3 dimensionality! Will do some more comparisons with native DV material and see how it goes.


Please post comparsion pics!


----------



## AlexM89

mirzank said:


> Wow totally amazing what this projector can do even on a wall, which is what I want. I’m totally sold!
> As for speckle, to be honest I don’t even know what I’m looking for which i guess is a good thing if I don’t notice anything off. The only thing I see is in the first picture you posted on the wall (not the lion), there is general graininess in the picture. Is this speckle ? Or is this just how the picture is in the movie ? Does it bother you ?


No it's the wall that sucks: D
And consequently it accentuates the graininess ....

For that I immediately grabbed the ALR screen ...
Unfortunately my wall (in the process of renovating the house) was not designed for projection, therefore it is not smooth (let's just say that the UST exalt the problems)

Having said that, as I said only on some contents (thanks to the poor quality and the high compression) the effect is accentuated ...

For the rest, no problem


----------



## shanedowley

ViciousXUSMC said:


> So if a video might help I can get one, but it's not much of a "visual" problem its more of a process problem.
> 
> It might be easy to blame the peripherals for the issue, especially because as far as I know right now its just the Nvidia Shield owners I have seen key in on this.
> If we get other people with say an Apple TV or Roku, Fire TV etc with the same issue that would really strengthen the case.
> 
> But here in detail is the issue:
> 
> If you set the Shield to output 4K60fps to the projector it sets just fine.
> If you put the projector into standby it will resume to this same display setting just fine.
> 
> However once the projector goes off, the next time it boots the Shield is now no longer set to display 4K60fps but instead something lower.
> 
> In my case it changes from 4K60fps to 4K30fps.
> 
> The reason I would think this is an issue with the Projector is if you go back into the shields display settings to change it back to 4K60 the display option is not even available. It's as f the projector is not advertising this as an available resolution and refresh rate. Thus the Shield is smart enough to automatically downgrade to a lower setting rather than give you no picture at all.
> 
> To remedy this, going into the display menu on the projector and changing the HDMI mode from 2.0 to 2.1 -OR- from 2.1 to 2.0 once the image comes back on screen the Shield automatically goes back to the correct display mode. It's as if the projector needs to refresh its advertisement of available resolutions and refresh rates, and the only way to make it do that is to change the HDMI mode.
> 
> Additional Information:
> 1.) I never had this problem using the same device(s) on my old TV
> 2.) I have the projector set to autoboot / auto-on so the Shield comes on first, and then the projector is turned on by its HDMI signal, I am not sure if manually turning the projector on first could change this behavior.
> 
> My setup is a Nvidia Shield Pro connected to an Onkyo RZ-50 with the HDMI mode set to 4K Enhanced, with the RZ-50 connected to the Projector, using 8K 48gbps HDMI cables all around.
> 
> Later tonight I'll test this theory:
> When I boot everything up and I am at 4K30 rather than change the HDMI mode, I will do a full reboot of the Shield. This may cause the projector to "update" its available resolutions and let me pick 4K60 again thus resulting in false results, but if it does not and I am still limited to 4K30 that would be pretty solid proof that the projector is at fault and something needs to be fixed.


I get the same behavioural issue with the Xiaomi C2 using the AppleTV 4K and Panasonic UB9000 sources.

The problem appears to be the software handling the EDID handshake corrupts the EDID table data reported to the HDMI sources upon the projector’s reboot.


----------



## GaeIta80

I can confirm that with Firestick 4k Max in HDMI 2.1 there is no handshake issue after turning the pj off/on


----------



## AlexM89

GaeIta80 said:


> I can confirm that with Firestick 4k Max in HDMI 2.1 there is no handshake issue after turning the pj off/on


If you change source (from hdmi1 to hdmi3 example .... and turn off the VPR) you lose the configuration in 4k60hz and you have to reset the hdmi 2.0 with the firestick


----------



## GaeIta80

AlexM89 said:


> If you change source (from hdmi1 to hdmi3 example .... and turn off the VPR) you lose the configuration in 4k60hz and you have to reset the hdmi 2.0 with the firestick


Ok, I will try when I plug the PS5 as well...so far I got only the Firestick in HDMI 1 (2.1)


----------



## AlexM89

GaeIta80 said:


> Ok, I will try when I plug the PS5 as well...so far I got only the Firestick in HDMI 1 (2.1)


You see...
in the maximum settings from 1080p ....
As soon as I change from 2.0 to auto and back to 2.0, it automatically detects the 2160p60hz










After making the switch


----------



## rjyap

Same here using a PC. But not always happen. I suspect is the boot sequence.


----------



## humax

AlexM89 said:


> You see...
> in the maximum settings from 1080p ....
> As soon as I change from 2.0 to auto and back to 2.0, it automatically detects the 2160p60hz
> After making the switch



What is your screen model? Pet grid or Pet Crystal?


----------



## AlexM89

humax said:


> What is your screen model? Pet grid or Pet Crystal?


BenQ ALRS01 100"


----------



## humax

AlexM89 said:


> BenQ ALRS01


Thank you for your answer! So, Pet Grid 0.6 gain. I suppose I am to expect similar performance from the Vava screen. I guess you get what you pay for!

VAVA ALR Projector Screen - Test with Lights ON and OFF - YouTube


----------



## m0j0

GaeIta80 said:


> Excing news! Which image settings did you use for HDR? DV office/dark still the best combo?


When using native DV, I did find office/dark a good setup. However, I find the LLDV setup a bit brighter and with more shadow detail than player led DV, so I think I will continue to go with that setup. I watched 2 or 3 4K/HDR movies on my Plex server with the LLDV setup and they all looked really, really amazing! The colors in Alladin were spectacular, as well as Encanto, and the contrast was great too, with no lost shadow details. I watched 3 or 4 DV titles in Netflix and really felt they looked as good as I can remember seeing them, and that included shows like The Witcher, Bridgerton, Lost in Space and others. I tested a lot of HD shows (mostly cartoony kids stuff and also nature shows) and they all looked amazing with the same 48/49 brightness and 72/73 contrast settings, but I could also switch to child mode/bright for a really good looking image as well.

With native DV, I could tell they did fix the issue with pink on skin tones, and the colors did look more natural overall, with good bright and dark contrast, but in direct comparisons with LLDV, I did notice that the shadow details were being lost a bit (black crush), so I don't think they've quite got the gamma figured out yet.


----------



## AlexM89

humax said:


> Thank you for your answer! So, Pet Grid 0.6 gain. I suppose I am to expect similar performance from the Vava screen. I guess you get what you pay for!
> 
> VAVA ALR Projector Screen - Test with Lights ON and OFF - YouTube



Very similar ...
a little better BenQ with light ...

Lights out not known differences ....


----------



## AlexM89

m0j0 said:


> When using native DV, I did find office/dark a good setup. However, I find the LLDV setup a bit brighter and with more shadow detail than player led DV, so I think I will continue to go with that setup. I watched 2 or 3 4K/HDR movies on my Plex server with the LLDV setup and they all looked really, really amazing! The colors in Alladin were spectacular, as well as Encanto, and the contrast was great too, with no lost shadow details. I watched 3 or 4 DV titles in Netflix and really felt they looked as good as I can remember seeing them, and that included shows like The Witcher, Bridgerton, Lost in Space and others. I tested a lot of HD shows (mostly cartoony kids stuff and also nature shows) and they all looked amazing with the same 48/49 brightness and 72/73 contrast settings, but I could also switch to child mode/bright for a really good looking image as well.
> 
> With native DV, I could tell they did fix the issue with pink on skin tones, and the colors did look more natural overall, with good bright and dark contrast, but in direct comparisons with LLDV, I did notice that the shadow details were being lost a bit (black crush), so I don't think they've quite got the gamma figured out yet.



Just wrote to Formovie, both for the HDMI issue, that I have attached photos and videos of the problem ...
I reported the DV Gamma management still not perfect ... And to make another improvement step in the MEMC in LOW ...


----------



## GaeIta80

m0j0 said:


> When using native DV, I did find office/dark a good setup. However, I find the LLDV setup a bit brighter and with more shadow detail than player led DV, so I think I will continue to go with that setup. I watched 2 or 3 4K/HDR movies on my Plex server with the LLDV setup and they all looked really, really amazing! The colors in Alladin were spectacular, as well as Encanto, and the contrast was great too, with no lost shadow details. I watched 3 or 4 DV titles in Netflix and really felt they looked as good as I can remember seeing them, and that included shows like The Witcher, Bridgerton, Lost in Space and others. I tested a lot of HD shows (mostly cartoony kids stuff and also nature shows) and they all looked amazing with the same 48/49 brightness and 72/73 contrast settings, but I could also switch to child mode/bright for a really good looking image as well.
> 
> With native DV, I could tell they did fix the issue with pink on skin tones, and the colors did look more natural overall, with good bright and dark contrast, but in direct comparisons with LLDV, I did notice that the shadow details were being lost a bit (black crush), so I don't think they've quite got the gamma figured out yet.


Great so ,without any extra software/Arcana, setting to Child/Bright should offer a great visual performance in both SDR/HDR?


----------



## m0j0

GaeIta80 said:


> Great so ,without any extra software/Arcana, setting to Child/Bright should offer a great visual performance in both SDR/HDR?


I found that to be the case before the firmware update when I was running 4k SDR on the ATV4K. Haven't really tested a lot with HDR running natively on the T1 without LLDV, so I'll have to get back to you on that.


----------



## zaselim

So guys, My invoice is ready and I'll be paying it in the morning. I asked them to show me the picture of the power cable plug so I can tell if it'll be compatible or not with the power sockets we have here.
Are you guys using any type of adapter (AC/DC)for the voltage as well or is it universal, and here we have 220V(AC) unlike 110V in the US.


----------



## Deanodxb

zaselim said:


> So guys, My invoice is ready and I'll be paying it in the morning. I asked them to show me the picture of the power cable plug so I can tell if it'll be compatible or not with the power sockets we have here.
> Are you guys using any type of adapter (AC/DC)for the voltage as well or is it universal, and here we have 220V(AC) unlike 110V in the US.


Just to be clear, the power supply on the T1 is auto switching so you won’t have a voltage problem.

Sellers on Ali Express or Alibaba will always throw in a cheap white plastic adapter. It does the job. I bought replacement cables with the ‘Mickey mouse’ shape three pin male plug but they won’t fit the T1 unless you cut back some of the plastic on the plug. The plug won’t push in to the T1 fully. The housing of the T1 is a unique triangle shape, not the kettle shape plug, so I am sticking with the adapter for now.


----------



## manwithnoname

Alex, how did you get that menu to appear where you can select "Auto", "2160p 60Hz", etc? Is that a T1 menu option? 

Thanks!


----------



## 3sprit

SiUse said:


> Vividstorm does have a floor rising accoustic transparent screen. So you’re able to place your front speakers behind the screen.


It's just a tiny part below the screen: it's useless


----------



## 3sprit

jakechoy said:


> Correct...I think they just punch holes thru the screen....


----------



## 3sprit

jakechoy said:


> This was what lead me to continue to use a wall after all these years of 3 tube sony projectors to today's UST. This is the PWC Experience Centre where 3 projectors project on the a wall.
> 
> (off topic - gonna move this to the DIY Screen section)
> 
> View attachment 3247303
> 
> View attachment 3247302


They are not UST projectors that project from below: it is not the same thing.


----------



## zaselim

Deanodxb said:


> Just to be clear, the power supply on the T1 is auto switching so you won’t have a voltage problem.
> 
> Sellers on Ali Express or Alibaba will always throw in a cheap white plastic adapter. It does the job. I bought replacement cables with the ‘Mickey mouse’ shape three pin male plug but they won’t fit the T1 unless you cut back some of the plastic on the plug. The plug won’t push in to the T1 fully. The housing of the T1 is a unique triangle shape, not the kettle shape plug, so I am sticking with the adapter for now.


Can you please post a picture of power plug that original power cable that comes with T1?
Thanks.


----------



## Tanizhq

I don't suppose anyone has a Fengmi F2 screen? Would like to see some real life pics of it. WuPro says it is pretty popular and they ship a decent amount every week to EU and NA


----------



## mirkmito

manwithnoname said:


> Alex, how did you get that menu to appear where you can select "Auto", "2160p 60Hz", etc? Is that a T1 menu option?
> 
> Thanks!


No...
It's the firestick menu


----------



## ted_b

If my HDMI video signal path is source (ATV4K, JRiver on pc, Sony 800 bluray) to Lyngdorf MP-40 to T1, then would it need or be improved by an HDFury Vertex2 ($469)? I am a quick learner but never used one. Where in that path does it go? I realize this is a Vertex2 question but is specific to a T1 that will eventually have the new firmware (gonna order T1 this weekend). 
Thx

Edit: Or maybe $299 Arcana?


----------



## m0j0

ted_b said:


> If my HDMI video signal path is source (ATV4K, JRiver on pc, Sony 800 bluray) to Lyngdorf MP-40 to T1, then would it need or be improved by an HDFury Vertex2 ($469)? I am a quick learner but never used one. Where in that path does it go? I realize this is a Vertex2 question but is specific to a T1 that will eventually have the new firmware (gonna order T1 this weekend).
> Thx
> 
> Edit: Or maybe $299 Arcana?


I have my devices going to my AVR, then AVR out to Vertex2, then out to T1.


----------



## ted_b

m0j0 said:


> I have my devices going to my AVR, then AVR out to Vertex2, then out to T1.


Thanks. I realize you are not yet announcing you are getting rid of the Vertex2 (in fact the T1 seems to like it) I'll ask if you would buy it again if you were me, or is the chasm narrowing enough?
Thx


----------



## m0j0

ted_b said:


> Thanks. I realize you are not yet announcing you are getting rid of the Vertex2 (in fact the T1 seems to like it) I'll ask if you would buy it again if you were me, or is the chasm narrowing enough?
> Thx


I would definitely buy it again today, based on my experience so far.


----------



## wltam

Hi guys! Just checking in given that it’s my first projector that I am considering to buy, I was wondering if the contrast of 1:3000 vs a 1:1000 would give any noticeable viewing experience? I am doubting between the T1 and AWOL vision so any tips/suggestion would be hugely appreciated!!


----------



## m0j0

wltam said:


> Hi guys! Just checking in given that it’s my first projector that I am considering to buy, I was wondering if the contrast of 1:3000 vs a 1:1000 would give any noticeable viewing experience? I am doubting between the T1 and AWOL vision so any tips/suggestion would be hugely appreciated!!


I am coming from a UST that had 1500:1 contrast ratio to this one that has 3000:1 contrast ratio, and I do feel that there is better contrast overall when I look at the picture, so I do believe it's noticeable, but it's not a monumental difference.


----------



## lattiboy

wltam said:


> Hi guys! Just checking in given that it’s my first projector that I am considering to buy, I was wondering if the contrast of 1:3000 vs a 1:1000 would give any noticeable viewing experience? I am doubting between the T1 and AWOL vision so any tips/suggestion would be hugely appreciated!!


Beyond the contrast which is quite noticeable, the black levels that the T1 can get down to are really incredible. Based on another users measurements of my Xiaomi C2, he measured a black point at or below a very expensive Sony projector. A lower Y value of .017, which is pretty crazy.

I don’t think I could ever go back to the mediocre contrastt and Black levels of non-ALPD DLP projectors.

The AWOL is impressive in its light output, but you’re giving up even contrast more over the already middling performance of units like the L9 and PX-1. Even my large chipped Vivitek HK-2299 didn’t produce contrast and black like the T1.


----------



## Ricoflashback

lattiboy said:


> Beyond the contrast which is quite noticeable, the black levels that the T1 can get down to are really incredible. Based on another users measurements of my Xiaomi C2, he measured a black point at or below a very expensive Sony projector. A lower Y value of .017, which is pretty crazy.
> 
> I don’t think I could ever go back to the mediocre contrastt and Black levels of non-ALPD DLP projectors.
> 
> The AWOL is impressive in its light output, but you’re giving up even contrast more over the already middling performance of units like the L9 and PX-1. Even my large chipped Vivitek HK-2299 didn’t produce contrast and black like the T1.


Attaboy, lattiboy. You just touched on the absolute, key differentiator between ALPD projectors and all the rest of the DLP world.


----------



## Xspearo

Does any know what I should set the "color depth" (8,10, or 12 bit) to on the Firestick?


----------



## arsenalfc89

wltam said:


> Hi guys! Just checking in given that it’s my first projector that I am considering to buy, I was wondering if the contrast of 1:3000 vs a 1:1000 would give any noticeable viewing experience? I am doubting between the T1 and AWOL vision so any tips/suggestion would be hugely appreciated!!


You may notice the difference in very dark scenes. Based on the AWOL reviews it’s doing a lot right as far as color, sharpness, fluidity, and HDR to the point that one reputable calibrator says if they improve the black level, AWOL will be one of the best Projectors, UST or not under $25,000. That’s quite a compliment. AWOL engineers did let me know they are working on an update to improve black levels so just wait to see what they bring out. T1 also did seem to have a good update recently so can’t go wrong with that either. Ultimately go with what you think your eyes will enjoy and don’t focus too much on numbers. Or you can always get a Lumagen and not have to worry about what’s the better projector to get lol.


----------



## Ricoflashback

arsenalfc89 said:


> You may notice the difference in very dark scenes. Based on the AWOL reviews it’s doing a lot right as far as color, sharpness, fluidity, and HDR to the point that one reputable calibrator says if they improve the black level, AWOL will be one of the best Projectors, UST or not under $25,000. That’s quite a compliment. AWOL engineers did let me know they are working on an update to improve black levels so just wait to see what they bring out. T1 also did seem to have a good update recently so can’t go wrong with that either. Ultimately go with what you think your eyes will enjoy and don’t focus too much on numbers. Or you can always get a Lumagen and not have to worry about what’s the better projector to get lol.


We'll see if other DLP projectors can duplicate what Appotronics and ALPD has done for Xiaomi and Fengmi projectors as to black level and contrast & color performance. What an ironical thing it would be if someone "reverse engineered" the process and made it "generic." Doubtful but an intriguing thought. And unless Appotronics licenses the technology to other companies - - the AWOL and all the other DLP Projectors will still suffer from the gas, mist, fog and haze that plague DLP manufacturers.


----------



## zaselim

Guy this is t1 right? Also the plug here on the cable, do the lower 2 pins are in cross angle or they are straight?
Edit: Never mind, the seller showed me the closeup, the lower pins are in cross angle But i have a switch that will connect with the plug on the cable.
Edit2: The seller already received the update on my unit only after an hour of sending the email, he said he will check it later. They will be shipping it tomorrow.







its their showcase piece in the image not the new one.


----------



## rjyap

Still no update for my unit. Going to write fengmi support another email.


----------



## zaselim

Guys is this how the update shows up on homepage?


----------



## Directtv999

zaselim said:


> Guy this is t1 right? Also the plug here on the cable, do the lower 2 pins are in cross angle or they are straight?
> Edit: Never mind, the seller showed me the closeup, the lower pins are in cross angle But i have a switch that will connect with the plug on the cable.
> Edit2: The seller already received the update on my unit only after an hour of sending the email, he said he will check it later. They will be shipping it tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its their showcase piece in the image not the new one.


Tell them not to ship via Hongkong everything is delayed because of covid outbreak in HK


----------



## zaselim

Directtv999 said:


> Tell them not to ship via Hongkong everything is delayed because of covid outbreak in HK


right, i told him. He hasn't read the msgs yet.


----------



## dentonc

Are all PET crystal screens basically the same? I have read lots of posts giving praise to XY Screens PET Crystal, but looking at Alibaba there are many other suppliers advertising PET Crystal screens for much less


----------



## m0j0

zaselim said:


> Guys is this how the update shows up on homepage?
> View attachment 3248065


Yes, that's it!


----------



## zaselim

m0j0 said:


> Yes, that's it!


Thanks.


----------



## indieke2

I am in doubt. I have the XIaomi, and even very happy on whole, some things can still improve. If ever I have a chance to get less rainbows on the T1, that is crucial. The image on the C2, but on some material, especial in dark scene it is tiring.

Does the fact that that T1 covers rec 2020, makes a big difference on screen? Or that not matter so much in real life?

On the XIaomi, even if I have to get more contrast and brightness sometimes, HDR is so much better then the Fengmi C2. It is the reason I sold the latter, and get the Xiaomi. Dolby vision looks good, but sometimes is a little bit too dark to my taste, and colors a bit too pronounced. Although that is maybe more modern filmmaking.


----------



## rooterha

Ordered mine with a 110" Vividstorm.

Getting tired of Hisense's slow updates - crazy that the T1 got updated so much faster and of course it seems like even at it's best the L9G can't really compare to what this can do.


----------



## Tanizhq

So WuPro sent me a bunch of new videos, I combined them together here: XY vs F2 comparison

Starts off with the XY on the left and F2 on the right, but then switches them around to make it a fair comparison as most of the light is coming from the right hand side. Does the comparison at different light conditions and at varying viewing angles.

Honestly, it look like the F2 is on point with what I am looking for. The performance in low light conditions seems very similar to the XY and in high light completely blows out the XY. 
Only real downside seems to be the viewing angle, but I think it is a non-issue for me


----------



## spocky12

FWIW, I don't expect the HDMI handshake issue to be fixed on the next update (hopefully I'm wrong because it's really a PITA).
After some RE, it looks like in the stock firmware, they added specific debug code to the _onNewAvrAdded_ function (which is an android framework function called during HDMI device discovery). As you usually don't ship debug code if everything is known to work as expected, we can conclude that they are already aware of this issue, but did not manage to fix it in the past 2 monthes.
Based on my experience, I still believe this will be fixed, though, as they usually improve and fix things on each new firmware release and don't sweep bugs under the carpet. Let's not forget their dev team is not that experimented with mediatek media frameworks yet.
In the meantime, one solution could be to plug input devices directly on the T1 and use eARC to output sound to the AVR (not my cup of tea though). Or maybe the Vertex can help us bypass this issue.
As for the root cause of this issue, I don't believe the handshake corrupts the EDID table data. From my understanding of how the Mediatek TV framework works (based on the T1 files that can be accessed without root, as well as a full firmware of the jmgo O1, using the same Mediatek framework, but with a full firmware available to download), there is a bunch of EDID bin files available, and the mediatek framework decides which one it presents to the input device based on its configuration. I believe that when an AVR is plugged in, the T1 presents the HDMI 1.4 EDID binary, which would explain the limits observed on my Shield Pro (1080p 60Hz, 2160p 30Hz max). Then whatever HDMI setting you select on the settings, the according EDID is sent, which fixes the issue until the next reboot. As to why it presents HDMI 1.4 EDID when an AVR is plugged in is another question though.

Edit : for the owners of a HDFury device who have the same HDMI handshake issue, fixing it might be as simple as capturing the right T1 EDID (either 2.0 or 2.1, after the HDMI setting flip), and always exposing this one with the HDFury.


----------



## humax

Tanizhq said:


> So WuPro sent me a bunch of new videos, I combined them together here: XY vs F2 comparison
> 
> Starts off with the XY on the left and F2 on the right, but then switches them around to make it a fair comparison as most of the light is coming from the right hand side. Does the comparison at different light conditions and at varying viewing angles.
> 
> Honestly, it look like the F2 is on point with what I am looking for. The performance in low light conditions seems very similar to the XY and in high light completely blows out the XY.
> Only real downside seems to be the viewing angle, but I think it is a non-issue for me



You are right. The F2 does seem better with ambient light, although I would also like to see them side by side in a blacked out environment in order to compare their black floor. The only real downside is the F2 being limited to 100". Otherwise, it sounds like good value for money. Is the XY model Pet Grid or Pet Crystal?


----------



## joeyx09

Where can I find throw distance? etc if I want a 135" how far away from the wall?


----------



## Tanizhq

humax said:


> You are right. The F2 does seem better with ambient light, although I would also like to see them side by side in a blacked out environment in order to compare their black floor. The only real downside is the F2 being limited to 100". Otherwise, it sounds like good value for money. Is the XY model Pet Grid or Pet Crystal?


XY PET Crystal. 

Yeah the 100" limit isnt fully ideal, but currently 120" is too big for me, the best size would be 110" but that isnt available unfortunately.
I suspect the XY would perform better in a Blacked Out environment but that is never going to be the case in my living room, so 99% sure I'm going for the F2 right now.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Tanizhq said:


> XY PET Crystal.
> 
> Yeah the 100" limit isnt fully ideal, but currently 120" is too big for me, the best size would be 110" but that isnt available unfortunately.
> I suspect the XY would perform better in a Blacked Out environment but that is never going to be the case in my living room, so 99% sure I'm going for the F2 right now.


Found this on the web - Fengmi Fabulus F2 Flexible Fresnel Anti-light ALR Fixed Frame Projector Screen 100 Inches 60° Wide Viewing Angle Grey

(No international shipment - lengthy product description.)

I believe the bezel isn’t wrapped in a black velvet and is a black plastic over aluminum. Let us know how it works out.


----------



## Tanizhq

Ricoflashback said:


> I believe the bezel isn’t wrapped in a black velvet and is a black plastic over aluminum. Let us know how it works out.


Is that a huge issue? I guess the black velvet just creates absorbs light if you cant get the projection lined up perfectly?


----------



## Ricoflashback

XY Pet Crystal Screen from Amazon. Will the Fengmi T1 be far behind?









Amazon.com: XY Screens Thin Bezel Ambient Light Rejecting Fixed Frame Projection Projector Screen, PET Crystal, 120-inch Diagonal 16:9 for Ultra Short Throw Projector : Electronics


Amazon.com: XY Screens Thin Bezel Ambient Light Rejecting Fixed Frame Projection Projector Screen, PET Crystal, 120-inch Diagonal 16:9 for Ultra Short Throw Projector : Electronics



www.amazon.com





Newly launched China distributor with Amazon:

Business Name:GUANGZHOU ORNO TECHNOLOGY ELECTRONICS CO.,LTD
Business Address:
Room X1301-C3713, No. 106, Fengze East Road, Nansha District
Guangzhou
Guangdong
511400
CN


----------



## Ricoflashback

Tanizhq said:


> Is that a huge issue? I guess the black velvet just creates absorbs light if you cant get the projection lined up perfectly?


If you can line up the projector properly - it won’t be an issue at all. With regular throw projectors, I’ve always had some overscan due to my room back wall. The idea of the black velvet is to mask any light spill. But with the shorter distance and angle of UST Projectors, you have to have a thin bezel otherwise you can get a shadow effect. You should be good to go as it looks like they’ve solved the halo issue somehow and it’s an interesting option.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Projection size90 Inch100 Inch120 Inch150 InchH/W: Projection size
Projection size width * height (unit: mm)2009*11382230*12622674*15123346*1894A：Projection height range (unit: mm)
From the bottom of the laser projection to the bottom of the projection screen289340392465B：Projection width range (unit: mm)
Laser projection tail to wall (screen)105198305454


----------



## Directtv999

Sorry for unrelated question, any idea how alibaba shipping works? Seller says T1 package cleared customs and ready to depart from Hongkong but DHL tracking shows only label created 

Tracking says shipping information received from last Monday.


----------



## loyot

dentonc said:


> Are all PET crystal screens basically the same? I have read lots of posts giving praise to XY Screens PET Crystal, but looking at Alibaba there are many other suppliers advertising PET Crystal screens for much less


I'm also interested to know. Saw some cheaper PET Crystal at wupro. Maybe I will combine shipping with T1.


----------



## zoomx2

That’s normal just wait for few days for cargo and custom you will get your unit.


----------



## zoomx2

loyot said:


> I'm also interested to know. Saw some cheaper PET Crystal at wupro. Maybe I will combine shipping with T1.


I bought mine 100” pet crystal for $200. The main difference is the fabric material I don’t care much about the frame.


----------



## whiskthecat

spocky12 said:


> In the meantime, one solution could be to plug input devices directly on the T1 and use eARC to output sound to the AVR (not my cup of tea though).
> 
> Edit : for the owners of a HDFury device who have the same HDMI handshake issue, fixing it might be as simple as capturing the right T1 EDID (either 2.0 or 2.1, after the HDMI setting flip), and always exposing this one with the HDFury.


Thanks for the insight and thoughts.

With my previous Wemax Nova, a direct PC connection did not resolve the issue. In fact, I never got far enough with it before returning it to ever even bother plugging it into my AVR, lol. It's not completely clear from previous forum posts but the wording implies many people are already directly connecting Nvidia Shield, Firestick, Apple TV, etc to no avail.

This is an interesting idea about the HDFury. I guess at the very least it would reveal whether it is a failure to advertise the correct feature set or a failure to actually enable said features. Can someone with T1 and an HDFury device give it a go?


----------



## wltam

zoomx2 said:


> I bought mine 100” pet crystal for $200. The main difference is the fabric material I don’t care much about the frame.


 Does the Fabric Material make a huge difference in quality? Or viewing quality?


----------



## loyot

zoomx2 said:


> I bought mine 100” pet crystal for $200. The main difference is the fabric material I don’t care much about the frame.


Do you have picture during daylight?


----------



## Tanizhq

Do you guys have the "Auto Audo-Visual Adjustment setting ON or OFF? 
Same for the Picture Quality Enhancement setting.

@lattiboy proba the best one to ask haha


----------



## Bendtner

Anyone got information about T1 global version? Cost, release date, colours available, differences between the T1 chinese version?
Thx to those who got infos 😉


----------



## zoomx2

loyot said:


> Do you have picture during daylight?
> [/QUOTE
> 
> I have 2 big windows on the side of the room. I’m using semi blackout blinds that’s why the room still bright. It is watchable but not the best in dark scene. Fresnel screen may help but I need to have wide viewing angle. I ordered a new blackout blinds now to keep away the sunlight.


----------



## lattiboy

Tanizhq said:


> Do you guys have the "Auto Audo-Visual Adjustment setting ON or OFF?
> Same for the Picture Quality Enhancement setting.
> 
> @lattiboy proba the best one to ask haha


I use the picture enhancement, but not the Auto thing. I don’t think the auto adjustment does anything, but don’t want to chance it. Picture enhancement is also very subtle, but Gregory said to leave it on.


----------



## Ricoflashback

I don't know if you rent or own your home but that room screams for a motorized ALR screen. In white, tucked in under the overhang. What a fabulous theater that would be! The blackout blinds and/or shutters will solve your current light issues.


----------



## ted_b

So, currently, assuming firmware installed, could someone act as a clearing house and summarize/post the calibration settings, or at least copy and paste from Gregory's list (changing anything that the firmware has affected)? Are many of them room/light specific? Does the unit come with a user manual that gets you part way? 

I'm ordering mine from Chris @ QuanzhouRuichiTechnology and will order a 120" ceiling mounted Vividstorm too, from Vividstorm, as they said they will customize my top blackout measurement to reduce the 13.8 inches to only a half inch...not sure if its custom cut or simply that they adjust the drop-down via allen wrench before its sent out.


----------



## Titi_78

Tanizhq said:


> So WuPro sent me a bunch of new videos, I combined them together here: XY vs F2 comparison
> 
> Starts off with the XY on the left and F2 on the right, but then switches them around to make it a fair comparison as most of the light is coming from the right hand side. Does the comparison at different light conditions and at varying viewing angles.
> 
> Honestly, it look like the F2 is on point with what I am looking for. The performance in low light conditions seems very similar to the XY and in high light completely blows out the XY.
> Only real downside seems to be the viewing angle, but I think it is a non-issue for me


I think the right screen have hot spot in lower side


Envoyé de mon iPad en utilisant Tapatalk


----------



## humax

Fengmi T1 in-depth Quantitative Review - YouTube 

New video from NothingButLabel. You will need auto-translate.


----------



## eezrider

3sprit said:


> It's just a tiny part below the screen: it's useless


Why do you say it's useless? I would think it meets some people's needs. It's not so tiny, it would accommodate most horizontally aligned center speakers. The lenticular nature of the ALR screen would make it difficult to create a true AR screen, but for some people putting the center speaker behind the base area of the screen could work well. It won't work for me as we have a shallow exterior wall behind screen.


----------



## spocky12

whiskthecat said:


> Thanks for the insight and thoughts.
> 
> With my previous Wemax Nova, a direct PC connection did not resolve the issue. In fact, I never got far enough with it before returning it to ever even bother plugging it into my AVR, lol. It's not completely clear from previous forum posts but the wording implies many people are already directly connecting Nvidia Shield, Firestick, Apple TV, etc to no avail.
> 
> This is an interesting idea about the HDFury. I guess at the very least it would reveal whether it is a failure to advertise the correct feature set or a failure to actually enable said features. Can someone with T1 and an HDFury device give it a go?


I've just tested it on my Vertex2.
I can confirm my assumptions : the EDID captured when the device first connects to my Nvidia Shield Pro through the AVR is the exact same as the one I can capture when I manually select HDMI 1.4 in the T1 settings. As soon as I select 2.0 or 2.1, the EDID captured changes to another one (obviously to the one for 2.0 or 2.1 HDMI).
Unfortunately this stops here : if I force the Vertex 2 to send the HDMI 2.0 or 2.1 EDID I've captured before, there's still a handshake issue, which I suppose is as follows :

the Shield receives the HDMI 2.x EDID and as such, selects 2160P60 as its preferred resolution. But then, the T1 (which, I suppose, still believes is only setup for HDMI 1.4) fails to accept this resolution as a valid one, and as such refuses to connect to the Shield and falls back to the launcher after 10 seconds.
of course, once I have manually flipped to HDMI 2.0 or 2.1, if the Vertex sends the HDMI 2.x captured (the one that didn't work just above), works perfectly fine.

So the issue can probably be described like this : once booted and connected to an AVR, the T1 selected HDMI 1.4 and send this EDID to the connected devices. But we can't force HDMI 2.X through the HdFury as the T1 is still (wrongly) configured to be 1.4 only until you manually change it.
If someone in contact with Fengmi support want to tell them, this might probably help fixing it.


----------



## lattiboy

spocky12 said:


> I've just tested it on my Vertex2.
> I can confirm my assumptions : the EDID captured when the device first connects to my Nvidia Shield Pro through the AVR is the exact same as the one I can capture when I manually select HDMI 1.4 in the T1 settings. As soon as I select 2.0 or 2.1, the EDID captured changes to another one (obviously to the one for 2.0 or 2.1 HDMI).
> Unfortunately this stops here : if I force the Vertex 2 to send the HDMI 2.0 or 2.1 EDID I've captured before, there's still a handshake issue, which I suppose is as follows :
> 
> the Shield receives the HDMI 2.x EDID and as such, selects 2160P60 as its preferred resolution. But then, the T1 (which, I suppose, still believes is only setup for HDMI 1.4) fails to accept this resolution as a valid one, and as such refuses to connect to the Shield and falls back to the launcher after 10 seconds.
> of course, once I have manually flipped to HDMI 2.0 or 2.1, if the Vertex sends the HDMI 2.x captured (the one that didn't work just above), works perfectly fine.
> 
> So the issue can probably be described like this : once booted and connected to an AVR, the T1 selected HDMI 1.4 and send this EDID to the connected devices. But we can't force HDMI 2.X through the HdFury as the T1 is still (wrongly) configured to be 1.4 only until you manually change it.
> If someone in contact with Fengmi support want to tell them, this might probably help fixing it.


I was just following up with an email to them about my HDMI issues and I copied your note. Thanks!


----------



## oryschak

I received my T1 yesterday from Jason Li - arrived in a couple days via DHL after waiting 3 days in HK - so far it's a nice step up in terms of contrast and vibrance on my Grandview Dynamique 120" from the two other units I've owned: an L9G120 and LSP9T. 

I do have one problem - the convertible standing desk I used for my L9G doesn't support the heavier T1. The T1 is now sitting on a cardboard box. I can't use typical console furniture as my basement has 7' ceilings and the screen is basically at the top of the wall. I liked the standing desk as I could adjust it for each UST's throw rates. I was thinking of building a box with long adjustable leveling feet (I also need something I can level through my carpeted/concrete floor). A beefier convertible desk may also work. Anyone deal with a similar situation?


----------



## eezrider

lattiboy said:


> I was just following up with an email to them about my HDMI issues and I copied your note. Thanks!


I'll do likewise as I have already reported this issue to them. I did receive this encouraging response from them this morning:

*>HDMI handshaking is inconsistent - I frequently need to change the HDMI setting on the projector to resync with the Xbox, otherwise I lose 4K support.*
Thanks for your valuable feedback. We have made progress on this issue and have submitted it to the technical department for optimization. 

Given what you have found, @spocky12, it's a little surprising that everyone isn't seeing this issue. I would imagine Fengmi chose to start the projector in HDMI 1.4 mode to avoid the case that someone mistakenly changes to 2.x and then locks themselves out. Have you investigated what the HDMI 'auto' setting does? 

They need to have some way to preserve an up-level HDMI setting though shutdown/restart, perhaps downgrading to 1.4 only if they detect a handshake issue.


----------



## humax

oryschak said:


> I do have one problem - the convertible standing desk I used for my L9G doesn't support the heavier T1. The T1 is now sitting on a cardboard box. I can't use typical console furniture as my basement has 7' ceilings and the screen is basically at the top of the wall. I liked the standing desk as I could adjust it for each UST's throw rates. I was thinking of building a box with long adjustable leveling feet (I also need something I can level through my carpeted/concrete floor). A beefier convertible desk may also work. Anyone deal with a similar situation?



Your set up seems appropriate for the accompanying telescopic Fengmi T1 stand. You may consider getting this one just to ensure proper weight support for the projector.

Fengmi Laser Tv Telescopic Pan Tilt Zoom Platform T1 Ust Projector Stand Projector Stand Price Ust Cabinet - Buy Ust Projector Stand,Ust Cabinet,Projector Stand Price Product on Alibaba.com


----------



## oryschak

humax said:


> Your set up seems appropriate for the accompanying telescopic Fengmi T1 stand. You may consider getting this one just to ensure proper weight support for the projector.
> 
> Fengmi Laser Tv Telescopic Pan Tilt Zoom Platform T1 Ust Projector Stand Projector Stand Price Ust Cabinet - Buy Ust Projector Stand,Ust Cabinet,Projector Stand Price Product on Alibaba.com


That's an interesting unit. I have a power outlet directly behind the UST so clearance may be an issue (I'm more concerned with height and level from a unit resting on the floor). I've decided to just build a wooden box for now with long leveling legs.


----------



## Tanizhq

lattiboy said:


> I use the picture enhancement, but not the Auto thing. I don’t think the auto adjustment does anything, but don’t want to chance it. Picture enhancement is also very subtle, but Gregory said to leave it on.


Oh really? I actually had it set to the exact opposite haha. I will try enabling picture enhancement and see if I even notice a difference


----------



## zoomx2

Tanizhq said:


> Oh really? I actually had it set to the exact opposite haha. I will try enabling picture enhancement and see if I even notice a difference


I believe those setting for the apps only. It has nothing to do with HDMI ports. I installed DAZN apk for example but it is annoying to exit the app in order to change settings. I reported to [email protected] formovie


----------



## zaselim

humax said:


> Fengmi T1 in-depth Quantitative Review - YouTube
> 
> New video from NothingButLabel. You will need auto-translate.


In this video HDR10 looks better than DV, I assume this unit was without the new firmware.


----------



## rooterha

zaselim said:


> In this video HDR10 looks better than DV, I assume this unit was without the new firmware.


Depends on the scene - DV clearly has better detail in a lot of them.

Actually when pausing, HDR10 seems to have the whites blown out on most scenes.


----------



## lattiboy

humax said:


> Fengmi T1 in-depth Quantitative Review - YouTube
> 
> New video from NothingButLabel. You will need auto-translate.


I appreciate the effort, but why would you take the time with Calman measurements and then use clearly incorrect exposure settings for your screen recording? The HDR is blown out and most of the clips (which I know pretty well from personal evaluation) look nothing like real life. I also didn’t see them say which mode they are using, which greatly effect how everything looks. They didn’t even bother comparing it to the C2 or other PJs which they’ve previously done videos for!

I’m depending on translated subtitles, so perhaps I missed something.


----------



## lattiboy

I’m now seriously using Office Mode brightness and movie image mode for most things. It’s crazy good on color clipping charts, and the yellow/green hue of movie mode seems to offset the pink/purple hue of office brightness mode. It also takes the edge off the extreme brightness of highlights in office brightness.

Give it a shot and let me know if I’m crazy….

Also, depending on content I think DolbyVision office / bright may be my current favorite. Lifts the shadows and seems to increase bright-contrast performance to my eyes. I tend to switch between dark and bright depending on what I’m watching.

EDIT: best settings I’ve used so far for highest lumen output and best colors as I found office/movie to still be too pink:

Office Mode brightness
Custom
Brightness 50
Contrast 49
Saturation 53
Sharpness 50
Tone 54

Color Custom
R 985
G 1024
B 950

Give it a whirl and let me know what you think


----------



## teros

Hey guys have purchased the fengmi t1 just wondering if there's anything I should take into consideration with size of a entertainment unit?


----------



## Legrost

Hello guys,
I currently have the version 1.4.6.1938 and it says no update are available. Does anyone has the same problem ?


----------



## SiUse

Legrost said:


> Hello guys,
> I currently have the version 1.4.6.1938 and it says no update are available. Does anyone has the same problem ?


Because there isn’t any official update yet. Everything spoken about on the last couple pages is an Alpha version for which you‘ve to write fengmi directly with your modelnumber and mac adress, so they push the alpha to your device.


----------



## Olive51

Hi everyone,
I'm designing my own cabinet for my future T1.
Rule of thumb, I want to keep the first 1/3 of the screen at 90cm height, so it's aligned to the eyes. I adjust the projector and (future) vividstorm height according that.










Anyone could tell me what distance you need to get 92" and 100" screen? (ideally A and B)
I measured 192mm for my Fengmi 4K cinema Pro to get 92", but it's written 198mm for the T1 to get 100".
So the throw ratio must be different or there is a mistake somewhere on the datasheet.









Thanks !


----------



## mirzank

lattiboy said:


> I’m now seriously using Office Mode brightness and movie image mode for most things. It’s crazy good on color clipping charts, and the yellow/green hue of movie mode seems to offset the pink/purple hue of office brightness mode. It also takes the edge off the extreme brightness of highlights in office brightness.
> 
> Give it a shot and let me know if I’m crazy….
> 
> Also, depending on content I think DolbyVision office / bright may be my current favorite. Lifts the shadows and seems to increase bright-contrast performance to my eyes. I tend to switch between dark and bright depending on what I’m watching.
> 
> EDIT: best settings I’ve used so far for highest lumen output and best colors as I found office/movie to still be too pink:
> 
> Office Mode brightness
> Custom
> Brightness 50
> Contrast 49
> Saturation 53
> Sharpness 50
> Tone 54
> 
> Color Custom
> R 985
> G 1024
> B 950
> 
> Give it a whirl and let me know what you think


Are you in the latest firmware with all the fixes for dv ?


----------



## Peter Leafshear

Olive51 said:


> Anyone could tell me what distance you need to get 92" and 100" screen? (ideally A and B)
> I measured 192mm for my Fengmi 4K cinema Pro to get 92", but it's written 198mm for the T1 to get 100".
> So the throw ratio must be different or there is a mistake somewhere on the datasheet.


Don't forget this:


MODELPRODUCT SIZEFengmi 4K Cinema (same as the Pro version,
and same also as the Fengmi C2)*456 × 308 × 91 mm*Fengmi T1*550 × 349.2 × 107.5 mm*

So the T1 is bigger and that needs to be taken into account.

For a 90" image the 4K Cinema (Pro) needs to be set 180 mm from the screen.
Below is the diagram from the 4K Cinema user manual available on the FCC web site. You can see the numbers are different compared to the diagram of the Xiaomi C2 posted before.









Now I still cannot find the official T1 user manual. However I get this from Banggood, although I don't trust Chinese sites an inch – pun intended 😆










The T1 is 41.2 mm deeper than the 4K Cinema. However one must also assume we cannot simply subtract that number from the 4KCP because the lenses are not necessarily placed at the same spot on the two frames. But let's do it anyway for a 90" image. I start with the 4KCP depth and substract from that value the additional dimension of the T1 :

140 - 41.2 = 98.8 mm Hu, I got mixed up with the 80" image. I start over.

180 - 41.2 = 138.8 mm

So the discrepancy is 138.8 - 105 = 33.8 mm. Could it be due to a different placing of the lens on the T1 frame (+3.4 cm toward the front?). I wonder if these numbers add up – second pun intended 🤡🙄

*EDIT:* Beijing, we have a problem!
I drew Fengmi C2 vs T1 in SketchUp on scale and in parallel projection, both set for a 90" image screen. Besides the Chinese sites like Banggood advertise for a 170 mm distance from the screen for the C2 (compared to 180 mm for the 4KCP in the manual, although both share the same throw ratio and form factor!) there is a serious issue here:










It seems the Chinese have struck again, so we need to do real-world measurements ourselves with purchased units 😤


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

Have any of you guys with a T1 tried out this cover...









Custom padded cover for Formovie Fengmi T1 Laser TV Projector


All covers are made with a great care and precision!Features and specifications:- Heavy-duty nylon exterior protects your investment against spills and dampness;- Padded 10mm layer for impact protection;- Super-soft velvet interior;- Heavy-duty seam binding with a 30mm seat-belting line that...




bestampcovers.com





Looks like a great option - soft interior surface, cut out on the back for cables. If you've tried it out, how's the quality and fit?


----------



## m0j0

So, I'm back to 110 nits for MAX luminance and 0.057 for MIN luminance on the DV tab of the Vertex2 and 1000 nits Max luminance, 0.0001 nits Min luminance, with a MaxCLL of 1099 and a MaxFALL of 243 on the HDR tab.

I temporarily swapped out my Apple TV 4k for an Nvidia Shield Pro and I was able to get a significantly improved DV picture! It was amazing in fact! Here's the settings I used on the T1:

Custom:
Brightness: 48
Contrast: 87
Saturation: 52
Sharpness: 50
Tint: 50
Color: Custom (Red: 985, Green: 1024, Blue: 950)

Just really good blacks, deep and saturated colors, good skin tones, massive brightness, etc.! Phenomenal!

Problem with the Shield though is that it would only detect 30Hz or lower for DV/HDR, and also when watching non DV content everything is blown out with the custom config so you have to switch over to one of the other modes, so in every day usage with my kids/family, the overall experience is still better on the ATV4K, but now I know if I want to watch DV content, I should do that on the Shield.

Conversely, I am going to order a new Roku Ultra, since that can force DV, to see if that ends up being my ultimate overall solution.


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> So, I'm back to 110 nits for MAX luminance and 0.057 for MIN luminance on the DV tab of the Vertex2 and 1000 nits Max luminance, 0.0001 nits Min luminance, with a MaxCLL of 1099 and a MaxFALL of 243 on the HDR tab.
> 
> I temporarily swapped out my Apple TV 4k for an Nvidia Shield Pro and I was able to get a significantly improved DV picture! It was amazing in fact! Here's the settings I used on the T1:
> 
> Custom:
> Brightness: 48
> Contrast: 87
> Saturation: 52
> Sharpness: 50
> Tint: 50
> Color: Custom (Red: 985, Green: 1024, Blue: 950)
> 
> Just really good blacks, deep and saturated colors, good skin tones, massive brightness, etc.! Phenomenal!
> 
> Problem with the Shield though is that it would only detect 30Hz or lower for DV/HDR, and also when watching non DV content everything is blown out with the custom config so you have to switch over to one of the other modes, so in every day usage with my kids/family, the overall experience is still better on the ATV4K, but now I know if I want to watch DV content, I should do that on the Shield.
> 
> Conversely, I am going to order a new Roku Ultra, since that can force DV, to see if that ends up being my ultimate overall solution.


Are you using any of the "AI" upscaling? Have you checked the "streaming" content? I get stellar SDR, albeit with a different, non DV projector, with the Nvidia Shield Pro. My X6700 Denon AVR also upscales my plain old Comcast Cable 1080p into fantastic 4K, as well. With both the Shield and my AVR - - everything is upscaled to 4K via those sources and not by my projector. Lastly - - do you also have your Vertex II in the chain?


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> Are you using any of the "AI" upscaling? Have you checked the "streaming" content? I get stellar SDR, albeit with a different, non DV projector, with the Nvidia Shield Pro. My X6700 Denon AVR also upscales my plain old Comcast Cable 1080p into fantastic 4K, as well. With both the Shield and my AVR - - everything is upscaled to 4K via those sources and not by my projector. Lastly - - do you also have your Vertex II in the chain?


Yes, I am using the AI options at max settings. And yes, this is all with the Vertex2 in the chain. And it was off the chain!


----------



## lattiboy

m0j0 said:


> So, I'm back to 110 nits for MAX luminance and 0.057 for MIN luminance on the DV tab of the Vertex2 and 1000 nits Max luminance, 0.0001 nits Min luminance, with a MaxCLL of 1099 and a MaxFALL of 243 on the HDR tab.
> 
> I temporarily swapped out my Apple TV 4k for an Nvidia Shield Pro and I was able to get a significantly improved DV picture! It was amazing in fact! Here's the settings I used on the T1:
> 
> Custom:
> Brightness: 48
> Contrast: 87
> Saturation: 52
> Sharpness: 50
> Tint: 50
> Color: Custom (Red: 985, Green: 1024, Blue: 950)
> 
> Just really good blacks, deep and saturated colors, good skin tones, massive brightness, etc.! Phenomenal!
> 
> Problem with the Shield though is that it would only detect 30Hz or lower for DV/HDR, and also when watching non DV content everything is blown out with the custom config so you have to switch over to one of the other modes, so in every day usage with my kids/family, the overall experience is still better on the ATV4K, but now I know if I want to watch DV content, I should do that on the Shield.
> 
> Conversely, I am going to order a new Roku Ultra, since that can force DV, to see if that ends up being my ultimate overall solution.


What brightness mode are you using? I’m going to try this with the Arcana today.


----------



## m0j0

lattiboy said:


> What brightness mode are you using? I’m going to try this with the Arcana today.


Office brightness
Also, I tested dynamic contrast off and on and ended up leaving it off.


----------



## m0j0

For those who are fans of MEMC, I was testing it with Bridgerton while watching in DV on the Shield last night (going through the Vertex2 for LLDV). It actually worked pretty well on low and really smoothed out motion, without too much SOE. I turned it off and on when they were running up the stairs in one of the season 1 episodes and it was pretty impressive how much smoother the motion was, and during a boxing match as well. I do not like SOE so it took me a few minutes to adjust, but I did like the smooth and stable effect it provided. Wish they would maybe turn down the effect a bit more on the low setting though, I think it's still more like medium, medium high, etc. than low, medium high.


----------



## Maqnvm7

m0j0 said:


> For those who are fans of MEMC, I was testing it with Bridgerton while watching in DV on the Shield last night (going through the Vertex2 for LLDV). It actually worked pretty well on low and really smoothed out motion, without too much SOE. I turned it off and on when they were running up the stairs in one of the season 1 episodes and it was pretty impressive how much smoother the motion was, and during a boxing match as well. I do not like SOE so it took me a few minutes to adjust, but I did like the smooth and stable effect it provided. Wish they would maybe turn down the effect a bit more on the low setting though, I think it's still more like medium, medium high, etc. than low, medium high.


Could you maybe post some comparison pics of LLDV vs native DV? Thanks!


----------



## m0j0

Maqnvm7 said:


> Could you maybe post some comparison pics of LLDV vs native DV? Thanks!


It really wouldn’t be a fair comparison in my experience. I’m all in with LLDV at this point. Maybe worth revisiting with a future update.

Edit: I will try to take some pics though at some point. Really don’t want to mess with the settings on the Vertex2 though because they are just totally locked in and looking amazing. I can remove the Vertex2 from the chain though and show what it looks like with native dv.


----------



## rooterha

m0j0 said:


> It really wouldn’t be a fair comparison in my experience. I’m all in with LLDV at this point. Maybe worth revisiting with a future update.


Any idea why the Shield is so much better than the Apple TV?


----------



## m0j0

rooterha said:


> Any idea why the Shield is so much better than the Apple TV?


Actually, I think it’s something to do with how the ATV4K works with the Vertex2 in comparison to how the Shield works with it. I have noticed many times that when I have the ATV4K connected and apply a change to the DV tab, the brightness will jump up and look great, but then inexplicably will dim down a bit after 5 - 10 seconds. I’ve seen others report similar issues with the Apple device and posted about it myself on the HDFury page, but no one seems to have an explanation. On the Shield, it completely kicks you out of what your watching and sets you back to the default video settings when you apply a DV change in the Vertex2, but the changes stick as a result. Interestingly, when I reconnected the Apple device after testing, I was able to increase contrast to the same high levels (85 after the test and only 68 before worked) without blowing out highlights, so I am thinking this may be a workaround approach that I stumbled upon.


----------



## ted_b

m0j0, thanks for all the great feedback (@lattiboy, too). I know this question is pure speculation because you don't have it set up this way, but if you are taking all your HDMI sources (like ATV4K, Shield, etc) first switched through a pre/pro/AVR device (I'll be using a Lyngdorf MP-40) then will things like this (pushing DV) behave differently, since the direct source is now the pre/pro and not the actual streamer? Will buying decisions like Roku Ultra (cuz it pushes DV if needed) be moot?


----------



## m0j0

ted_b said:


> m0j0, thanks for all the great feedback (@lattiboy, too). I know this question is pure speculation because you don't have it set up this way, but if you are taking all your HDMI sources (like ATV4K, Shield, etc) first switched through a pre/pro/AVR device (I'll be using a Lyngdorf MP-40) then will things like this (pushing DV) behave differently, since the direct source is now the pre/pro and not the actual streamer? Will buying decisions like Roku Ultra (cuz it pushes DV if needed) be moot?


That is the way I am configured today. My sources are going through my Denon AVR, then out to the Vertex2, then out to the projector.


----------



## Deanodxb

lattiboy said:


> I’m now seriously using Office Mode brightness and movie image mode for most things. It’s crazy good on color clipping charts, and the yellow/green hue of movie mode seems to offset the pink/purple hue of office brightness mode. It also takes the edge off the extreme brightness of highlights in office brightness.
> 
> Give it a shot and let me know if I’m crazy….
> 
> Also, depending on content I think DolbyVision office / bright may be my current favorite. Lifts the shadows and seems to increase bright-contrast performance to my eyes. I tend to switch between dark and bright depending on what I’m watching.
> 
> EDIT: best settings I’ve used so far for highest lumen output and best colors as I found office/movie to still be too pink:
> 
> Office Mode brightness
> Custom
> Brightness 50
> Contrast 49
> Saturation 53
> Sharpness 50
> Tone 54
> 
> Color Custom
> R 985
> G 1024
> B 950
> 
> Give it a whirl and let me know what you think


My settings are very close to yours. But I also think settings are very subjective and dependent on the screen type.
I just got my ALR screen from XY. This is 0.6 gain so too dim on dark mode which I was using for the wall. Now trying office mode like you. I’m using 4K HDR setting in Apple TV. Dolby Vision distorts the Apple interface so much (horrible icon colours) I won’t try that until new firmware gets pushed to my T1.


----------



## Deanodxb

Peter Leafshear said:


> Now I still cannot find the official T1 user manual. However I get this from Banggood, although I don't trust Chinese sites an inch – pun intended 😆


I haven’t seen the English version online. It is on the T1 itself in one of the settings menus.


----------



## Peter Leafshear

Deanodxb said:


> I haven’t seen the English version online. It is on the T1 itself in one of the settings menus.


Then could a happy T1 owner take a picture of it and post the diagram here please?


----------



## manwithnoname

Scott Rosenberg said:


> Have any of you guys with a T1 tried out this cover...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Custom padded cover for Formovie Fengmi T1 Laser TV Projector
> 
> 
> All covers are made with a great care and precision!Features and specifications:- Heavy-duty nylon exterior protects your investment against spills and dampness;- Padded 10mm layer for impact protection;- Super-soft velvet interior;- Heavy-duty seam binding with a 30mm seat-belting line that...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> bestampcovers.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like a great option - soft interior surface, cut out on the back for cables. If you've tried it out, how's the quality and fit?


I ordered one back on the 23rd. They are shipped from Bulgaria, and it's on it's way via DHL, so once I get it I will comment on the quality. This is my 2nd UST, and the glass definitely can attract a lot of dust (and sometimes pet hair), and it is nerve-wracking to clean it and worry about scratching/scuffing such an intricate part. This cover seems like overkill, but it should be great protection, especially with the soft interior. 

I really want a small soft-rubber or plastic cover for the lens area with a handle that can be picked up and set to the side. For the past few years I've just been setting a soft cloth over the lens area when not in use.


----------



## Ampro4600

Is there any news on the international version?


----------



## eezrider

Deanodxb said:


> My settings are very close to yours. But I also think settings are very subjective and dependent on the screen type.
> I just got my ALR screen from XY. This is 0.6 gain so too dim on dark mode which I was using for the wall. Now trying office mode like you. I’m using 4K HDR setting in Apple TV. Dolby Vision distorts the Apple interface so much (horrible icon colours) I won’t try that until new firmware gets pushed to my T1.


I was exploring similar settings also (with the updated 2.0 firmware). Looking at a few streamed movies, I used @lattiboy 's settings but found that I needed to dial back saturation to 50 (red suit worn by mad guitarist on truck hood in Mad Max Fury Road was saturated and started to speckle otherwise) and brightness to 52 to avoid washed out whites (this may be content specific) . I used the color adjustments but dialed red down to 950 to help reduce the red level a tad more. 

I also set Dynamic Contrast off as it does horrible things (see the effect on faces in Wonder Woman on HBO, during the beach assault scene). 

Otherwise, I found @lattiboy 's settings to be excellent. We watched a few minutes of Pride and Prejudice and it was amazing, even my wife got excited, so much so that we now have to re-watch the movie  

I think that some of the canned modes have dynamic contrast on as I can see the same unnatural gradation on skin tones there too (child mode, for example, but likely some others also). It's interesting, as before the update Dynamic Contrast seemed to have no effect, now it's definitely to be avoided. If they are forcing it on in the canned modes that is a shame. They should make it an independent setting so you can pick a mode and then choose DC or not as you please.


----------



## tovaxxx

I do not have a handshake problem. When I turn on the PJ and Shield via Harmony, the resolution stays at 4K30 every time. T1 on and off via Harmony works. But how can I switch to the HDMI input? What command do I have to program there?


----------



## m0j0

tovaxxx said:


> I do not have a handshake problem. When I turn on the PJ and Shield via Harmony, the resolution stays at 4K30 every time. T1 on and off via Harmony works. But how can I switch to the HDMI input? What command do I have to program there?


There isn't a command for that. You have to set the projector to switch automatically when it detects input. This is why it's good to have a delay before the projector turns on, so that the input is up and sending a signal first.


----------



## lattiboy

eezrider said:


> I was exploring similar settings also (with the updated 2.0 firmware). Looking at a few streamed movies, I used @lattiboy 's settings but found that I needed to dial back saturation to 50 (red suit warn by mad guitarist on truck hood in Mad Max Fury Road was saturated and started to speckle otherwise) and brightness to 52 to avoid washed out whites (this may be content specific) . I used the color adjustments but dialed red down to 950 to help reduce the red level a tad more.
> 
> I also set Dynamic Contrast off as it does horrible things (see the effect on faces in Wonder Woman on HBO, during the beach assault scene).
> 
> Otherwise, I found @lattiboy 's settings to be excellent. We watched a few minutes of Pride and Prejudice and it was amazing, even my wife got excited, so much so that we now have to re-watch the movie
> 
> I think that some of the canned modes have dynamic contrast on as I can see the same unnatural gradation on skin tones there too (child mode, for example, but likely some others also). It's interesting, as before the update Dynamic Contrast seemed to have no effect, now it's definitely to be avoided. If they are forcing it on in the canned modes that is a shame. They should make it an independent setting so you can pick a mode and then choose DC or not as you please.


If you have an Apple TV or Roku ultra it’s worth doing HDR always on which engages DV for everything. It looks pretty amazing with normal HDR in office / dark mode. Don’t know if I’ll keep it forever, but it’s what I’m on today and I’m pretty happy so far.


----------



## ted_b

lattiboy said:


> If you have an Apple TV or Roku ultra it’s worth doing HDR always on which engages DV for everything. It looks pretty amazing with normal HDR in office / dark mode. Don’t know if I’ll keep it forever, but it’s what I’m on today and I’m pretty happy so far.


@lattiboy thanks for that. Is the "HDR-always-on" a setting in each streamer, at the Arcana, or within the T1?


----------



## m0j0

eezrider said:


> I was exploring similar settings also (with the updated 2.0 firmware). Looking at a few streamed movies, I used @lattiboy 's settings but found that I needed to dial back saturation to 50 (red suit warn by mad guitarist on truck hood in Mad Max Fury Road was saturated and started to speckle otherwise) and brightness to 52 to avoid washed out whites (this may be content specific) . I used the color adjustments but dialed red down to 950 to help reduce the red level a tad more.
> 
> I also set Dynamic Contrast off as it does horrible things (see the effect on faces in Wonder Woman on HBO, during the beach assault scene).
> 
> Otherwise, I found @lattiboy 's settings to be excellent. We watched a few minutes of Pride and Prejudice and it was amazing, even my wife got excited, so much so that we now have to re-watch the movie
> 
> I think that some of the canned modes have dynamic contrast on as I can see the same unnatural gradation on skin tones there too (child mode, for example, but likely some others also). It's interesting, as before the update Dynamic Contrast seemed to have no effect, now it's definitely to be avoided. If they are forcing it on in the canned modes that is a shame. They should make it an independent setting so you can pick a mode and then choose DC or not as you please.


Now that you mention it, I was using a couple modes when my kids were watching a nature show and I noticed sometimes the leaves were kind of over saturated and sometimes the leaves/greenery were spot on, and I was wondering what might be changing. I was thinking maybe it was a problem with the show or something, but perhaps its the dynamic contrast thats baked in to the mode. Not sure really.


----------



## ted_b

I'm going to configure an amp stand for my temporary T1 stand. I can level each direction, etc. Does anyone have the dimensions for the T1 feet; i.e they look to be, as expected, nestled in a few inches from the corners? Thanks


----------



## lattiboy

ted_b said:


> @lattiboy thanks for that. Is the "HDR-always-on" a setting in each streamer, at the Arcana, or within the T1?


This is without HD Fury, just a roku or Apple TV connected directly to the T1. In the roku it’s under system, advanced, advanced display settings. HDR always on. Apple is similar. Worth a shot as I’m really liking it and may leave it as is for awhile. The new firmware makes it practical whereas the last one had the red/pink push and overly warm tone.


----------



## zoomx2

After the new firmware, I lower the saturation to 40 instead of 55 before. I found it high saturation cause red spot on face skin. Color temperature normal instead of custom.


----------



## m0j0

I actually can live with a little reddish spots on the skin if the colors are really nice and saturated. In Bridgerton on Netflix, they wear these really deep colored velvet jackets in purple, burgundy and black colors and man, it looks fabulous!


----------



## m0j0

Ok, so did some more testing with the Shield, both connected to the Vertex2 and connected directly to the T1, to test LLDV on the vertex vs. native DV of the T1 and also native HDR on the T1. End result was that the Vertex2 was brighter without blowing out white highlights. Native DV and Native HDR were both watchable and acceptable from a brightness perspective, though not quite as bright as I preferred and was able to get with the LLDV setup and the Shield. So, I think if the Fengmi engineers can figure out the gamma stuff so I can get more brightness without blowing out highlights, etc. things will be looking really good on the T1 natively.

Interestingly, I took some pictures of a specific low light scene in all three scenarios, but the pictures actually came out looking much more similar in the photos and not at all as different/darker that the dv and hdr pictures looked like in real life. In fact, when I was trying to take those pictures, the iphone kept doing those long exposures with the clicks due to the low light available. So, I will post pictures, but again, it doesn't really tell the story my eyes are seeing.

This is with native dolby vision enabled on the Shield connecting directly to the T1. Again, it was not really this bright in real life to my eyes.










And here's the same scene with the Shield connected to the Vertex2 (and again, it looked much better in person but the iphone had a real hard time capturing these pictures).









and a few more:


----------



## m0j0

And just for fun, here's a couple more pictures of the Shield with the Vertex2 (and all these scenes looked really, really good in person, I promise, so sorry for the poor photos)


















































































And on the Shield I have to switch from Office to Night mode to go from DV shows to regular HD shows, but it is an easy switch and still looked pretty good:


----------



## Peter Leafshear

You setups are impressive. As for me, I am planning to purchase a Fengmi T1 that will be hooked to an Apple TV 4K (no NVIDIA Shield or Roku). There will be no additional devices like HDfury Vertex2. In the previous pages of this thread, I saw this was not ideal since such a setup produced weird red/pink skin tones and bizarre shadows when watching most content in HDR10 or Dolby Vision, forcing to play with the remote to tune the settings for each new movie session. I don't want to do that.
Since then, there have been serious improvement from Fengmi with latest firmware.
So today, would you guys recommend T1 + ATV4K with latest FW for watching DV content?


----------



## 3sprit

eezrider said:


> Why do you say it's useless? I would think it meets some people's needs. It's not so tiny, it would accommodate most horizontally aligned center speakers. The lenticular nature of the ALR screen would make it difficult to create a true AR screen, but for some people putting the center speaker behind the base area of the screen could work well. It won't work for me as we have a shallow exterior wall behind screen.


The screen must be at the right height*. It is a floor screen. You would have the center channel on the floor. However, the perforated part is only 23 centimeters high (See the measurements on the Vividstorm drawing…).

*


----------



## Tanizhq

lattiboy said:


> This is without HD Fury, just a roku or Apple TV connected directly to the T1. In the roku it’s under system, advanced, advanced display settings. HDR always on. Apple is similar. Worth a shot as I’m really liking it and may leave it as is for awhile. The new firmware makes it practical whereas the last one had the red/pink push and overly warm tone.


So you use 4K HDR with content match instead of 4K SDR with content match?


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

manwithnoname said:


> I ordered one back on the 23rd. They are shipped from Bulgaria, and it's on it's way via DHL, so once I get it I will comment on the quality. This is my 2nd UST, and the glass definitely can attract a lot of dust (and sometimes pet hair), and it is nerve-wracking to clean it and worry about scratching/scuffing such an intricate part. This cover seems like overkill, but it should be great protection, especially with the soft interior.


Thanks! Looking forward to hearing your impressions of the cover.


----------



## m0j0

Here's a picture of one of the scenes I use to set my contrast. It's a very bright sky scene with some clouds. This picture doesn't exactly capture what it looks like in real life. I believe it's season 2 episode 7 of the Witcher, and it's just after they ride up a hill. If contrast is good, you will be able to see all the clouds. When you start to go to high with contrast, blooming will occur and the sky will become just really bright but the detail and shape of the clouds will start to go away. I try to get my contrast as high as I can without blowing out white highlights. There's 2 or 3 more scenes in the next few minutes after this which shows clouds in the sky and you can also check those with the contrast settings.


----------



## zoomx2

m0j0 said:


> Here's a picture of one of the scenes I use to set my contrast. It's a very bright sky scene with some clouds. This picture doesn't exactly capture what it looks like in real life. I believe it's season 2 episode 7 of the Witcher, and it's just after they ride up a hill. If contrast is good, you will be able to see all the clouds. When you start to go to high with contrast, blooming will occur and the sky will become just really bright but the detail and shape of the clouds will start to go away. I try to get my contrast as high as I can without blowing out white highlights. There's 2 or 3 more scenes in the next few minutes after this which shows clouds in the sky and you can also check those with the contrast settings.
> 
> View attachment 3249021


👍🏼, you need a 150” now lol


----------



## m0j0

zoomx2 said:


> 👍🏼, you need a 150” now lol


Actually, I don't think it would work in my living room. 100 inches is about as big as we can stand from sitting back 9 1/2 to 10 feet.


----------



## m0j0

Was testing with the Shield today so paused the ATV4K, hooked up the Shield to the same hdmi cable, did my tests, then when I switched hdmi back to Apple TV, the picture was nice and bright (this is with the Vertex2 in the chain). However, as soon as I unpaused the video on the Apple, the picture dimmed back down. Definitely something the Apple TV doesn’t like about the Vertex2.


----------



## m0j0

Another thing I noticed is the dynamic contrast seems to turn itself back on somehow. I have had to turn if off many times within the past week and never deliberately turned it on at all, so not sure what’s going on there.


----------



## eezrider

m0j0 said:


> Another thing I noticed is the dynamic contrast seems to turn itself back on somehow. I have had to turn if off many times within the past week and never deliberately turned it on at all, so not sure what’s going on there.


Mmm. I think I've noticed that too...


----------



## Deanodxb

eezrider said:


> Mmm. I think I've noticed that too...


Maybe it resets when you plug and unplug HDMI. Mine is set to off and it’s stayed off. I only have ATV4K hooked up.


----------



## spocky12

tovaxxx said:


> I do not have a handshake problem. When I turn on the PJ and Shield via Harmony, the resolution stays at 4K30 every time. T1 on and off via Harmony works. But how can I switch to the HDMI input? What command do I have to program there?


Not sure when this problem occurs exactly (only with certain devices or not) but configuring your shield pro to 4k30 will hide this handshake issue anyway as 4k30 is common to HDMI 1.4 and 2.x.


----------



## tovaxxx

How can I set the T1 to automatically switch to HDMI 1 input when I turn it on?


----------



## arsenalfc89

Has anyone asked the Fengmi team why this only goes to 88% rec 2020, possibly even lower once calibrated? The Chroma is the same and I’ve asked them, just waiting on the engineers to get back but it’s been a while. I believe there is some internal processing that is putting a cap on things and I’m hoping to fix that issue on their end or ours. I believe once it’s fixed, it will bring out the full potential of the T1 and even the Chroma. Because as it stands calibrating is a mess with this processing going on.


----------



## zoomx2

arsenalfc89 said:


> Has anyone asked the Fengmi team why this only goes to 88% rec 2020, possibly even lower once calibrated? The Chroma is the same and I’ve asked them, just waiting on the engineers to get back but it’s been a while. I believe there is some internal processing that is putting a cap on things and I’m hoping to fix that issue on their end or ours. I believe once it’s fixed, it will bring out the full potential of the T1 and even the Chroma. Because as it stands calibrating is a mess with this processing going on.


I trust my eye not care whoever tells me the calibrated numbers.


----------



## zoomx2

tovaxxx said:


> How can I set the T1 to automatically switch to HDMI 1 input when I turn it on?


In setting/system/auto play at boot


----------



## arsenalfc89

zoomx2 said:


> I trust my eye not care whoever tells me the calibrated numbers.


That’s understandable. But I don’t settle, I want to bring out the best.


----------



## Ricoflashback

zoomx2 said:


> I trust my eye not care whoever tells me the calibrated numbers.


Well, maybe a calibration from someone who is really good can be beneficial. (And - as long as it sticks and any firmware updates don't mess with it.) Calibrations can help with projectors that have a bad "out of the box" experience to begin with. But I've never had a calibration done and while not the best practice, other "recommended settings" from CNET, Katzmaier and especially rtings (the worst of the worst) have been God awful on any TV I've had. Quite frankly - - in addition to my own eyes, I value AVS Forum Members settings far more than any of the "experts" who post online. But this is a very opinionated subject. I've never been a 100% accuracy guy as I find that standard to be somewhat loose, depending on the calibrator (or his/her capabilities.) Give me the best "out of the box" experience possible with the ability to tweak a couple things and I'm a happy camper. Or - - spend $8K on a madVR Envy Pro and "set it and forget it."


----------



## arsenalfc89

Ricoflashback said:


> Well, maybe a calibration from someone who is really good can be beneficial. (And - as long as it sticks and any firmware updates don't mess with it.) Calibrations can help with projectors that have a bad "out of the box" experience to begin with. But I've never had a calibration done and while not the best practice, other "recommended settings" from CNET, Katzmaier and especially rtings (the worst of the worst) have been God awful on any TV I've had. Quite frankly - - in addition to my own eyes, I value AVS Forum Members settings far more than any of the "experts" who post online. But this is a very opinionated subject. I've never been a 100% accuracy guy as I find that standard to be somewhat loose, depending on the calibrator (or his/her capabilities.) Give me the best "out of the box" experience possible with the ability to tweak a couple things and I'm a happy camper. Or - - spend $8K on a madVR Envy Pro and "set it and forget it."


I’m with you on this. I too use to use other calibration numbers then it really hit me it is truly room dependent. I have a Lumagen so it takes care of most of the issues but working with the Owner of the Colourspace/Lightspace software we saw that there is some weird processing that manipulates the colors and not on a good way. If that can be fixed my gosh it will change things PQ wise. It’s not too bad right now but it’s hard to let go once you see the potential lol. Btw I’m basing this on the Chroma but the T1 seems to be very similar.


----------



## zaselim

So guys what happened to that projectorscreens.com guy who bought the projector to test it, did he ever present his findings on T1. I heard he was arguing with some people that currently Hisense PX-1 Pro is the best projector(UST) of 2022 compared to the competition (including the Xiaomi C2 and Fengmi T1).


----------



## Brajesh

He mentioned his T1 arrived DOA.

Gotta say though that comparing UST’s or doing any kind of shootout without Xiaomi/Fengmi ALPD’s, whether marketed outside China or not, is shortsighted. The non-marketed for US/EU argument is convenient ignorance.


----------



## humax

Brajesh said:


> He mentioned his T1 arrived DOA.



This is odd. Didn't his seller checked the unit, before sending it from China? However, it is best he waits for the Fengmi OS 2.0 to be released in mid-March, before he releases his review anyway.


----------



## zaselim

Brajesh said:


> He mentioned his T1 arrived DOA.
> 
> Gotta say though that comparing UST’s or doing any kind of shootout without Xiaomi/Fengmi ALPD’s, whether marketed outside China or not, is shortsighted. The non-marketed for US/EU argument is convenient ignorance.


Oh that's really sad to hear. I hope mine's arrive fully functional, the seller did show me the display before and after the update including the model number so i can check when it arrives.


----------



## shanedowley

spocky12 said:


> FWIW, I don't expect the HDMI handshake issue to be fixed on the next update (hopefully I'm wrong because it's really a PITA).
> After some RE, it looks like in the stock firmware, they added specific debug code to the _onNewAvrAdded_ function (which is an android framework function called during HDMI device discovery). As you usually don't ship debug code if everything is known to work as expected, we can conclude that they are already aware of this issue, but did not manage to fix it in the past 2 monthes.
> Based on my experience, I still believe this will be fixed, though, as they usually improve and fix things on each new firmware release and don't sweep bugs under the carpet. Let's not forget their dev team is not that experimented with mediatek media frameworks yet.
> In the meantime, one solution could be to plug input devices directly on the T1 and use eARC to output sound to the AVR (not my cup of tea though). Or maybe the Vertex can help us bypass this issue.
> As for the root cause of this issue, I don't believe the handshake corrupts the EDID table data. From my understanding of how the Mediatek TV framework works (based on the T1 files that can be accessed without root, as well as a full firmware of the jmgo O1, using the same Mediatek framework, but with a full firmware available to download), there is a bunch of EDID bin files available, and the mediatek framework decides which one it presents to the input device based on its configuration. I believe that when an AVR is plugged in, the T1 presents the HDMI 1.4 EDID binary, which would explain the limits observed on my Shield Pro (1080p 60Hz, 2160p 30Hz max). Then whatever HDMI setting you select on the settings, the according EDID is sent, which fixes the issue until the next reboot. As to why it presents HDMI 1.4 EDID when an AVR is plugged in is another question though.
> 
> Edit : for the owners of a HDFury device who have the same HDMI handshake issue, fixing it might be as simple as capturing the right T1 EDID (either 2.0 or 2.1, after the HDMI setting flip), and always exposing this one with the HDFury.


Nice detective work Spocky12. Will give the HDFury EDID table idea a try.


----------



## m0j0

Checked again this morning and dynamic contrast had turned back on under custom settings. I made zero changes to it from last night to today, so it seems that when the projector powers on, it must default the dynamic contrast to on, so that the first time you go into custom settings it's turned on. That's what it seems is happening. This is on the alpha firmware.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Brajesh said:


> He mentioned his T1 arrived DOA.
> 
> Gotta say though that comparing UST’s or doing any kind of shootout without Xiaomi/Fengmi ALPD’s, whether marketed outside China or not, is shortsighted. The non-marketed for US/EU argument is convenient ignorance.


I agree on the importance of having the ALPD laser PJ’s in the shootout. But I can understand Brian’s point. Heck, he tried to get a working ALPD (T1) but for whatever reason, it came in DOA. (Cord/Power Supply?) It is a global economy and we all take risks on Chinese products without any support. I’d like to see Brian be able to sell AND service Xiaomi/Fengmi Projectors. I even paid an extra hundred or two for a Chi-Fi Tube Amplifier from Amazon because they had taken care of any customs issues and had speedy delivery with Amazon’s guarantee. I’d do the same with the Fengmi T1 if I could. I do know this - even if Amazon carried Xiaomi/Fengmi products, you still would need someone in the U.S. to service them. Regardless, I’ll still be interested in the shootout and also for any additional screen comparison info.


----------



## humax

arsenalfc89 said:


> Has anyone asked the Fengmi team why this only goes to 88% rec 2020, possibly even lower once calibrated? The Chroma is the same and I’ve asked them, just waiting on the engineers to get back but it’s been a while. I believe there is some internal processing that is putting a cap on things and I’m hoping to fix that issue on their end or ours. I believe once it’s fixed, it will bring out the full potential of the T1 and even the Chroma. Because as it stands calibrating is a mess with this processing going on.



Since the C2 also came short color-wise, it is probably an inherent limitation of the current ALPD 3.0/4.0 designs, not a matter of image processing. I believe there is still a color wheel somewhere in the T1's light path, although I read somewhere it does not act like a classic color wheel, but it is just for blue color (for increased brightness perhaps?). The other RGB laser engines so far that hit 100% REC.2020 or more seem to be completely wheel free. Maybe that's the culprit? I really wish I am just talking nonsense and it can be fixed right now, so not having to wait for an ALPD 5.0 version, but I doubt it.

However, incorporating even a rudimentary CMS in their firmware should be easier and doable in their current models. People are asking for it. Sooner or later Xiaomi/Fengmi will have to provide. It has already been 5-6 years their models are lacking it. The international version seems like a good starting point, provided someone from Fengmi will listen.


----------



## arsenalfc89

humax said:


> Since the C2 also came short color-wise, it is probably an inherent limitation of the current ALPD 3.0/4.0 designs, not a matter of image processing. I believe there is still a color wheel somewhere in the T1's light path, although I read somewhere it does not act like a classic color wheel, but it is just for blue color (for increased brightness perhaps?). The other RGB laser engines so far that hit 100% REC.2020 or more seem to be completely wheel free. Maybe that's the culprit? I really wish I am just talking nonsense and it can be fixed right now, so not having to wait for an ALPD 5.0 version, but I doubt it.
> 
> However, incorporating even a rudimentary CMS in their firmware should be easier and doable in their current models. People are asking for it. Sooner or later Xiaomi/Fengmi will have to provide. It has already been 5-6 years their models are lacking it. The international version seems like a good starting point, provided someone from Fengmi will listen.


You make a good point regarding the color wheel because I noticed on the Chroma that increasing the light output is just increasing the blue laser which then throws off the RGB balance. Maybe if I have time I’ll dig into the internals. If it’s a matter of the internal design I’ll just have to move on to another projector. Unless you’re not into having the perfect picture I think T1 and Chroma are good options but using a Lumagen has spoiled my taste.


----------



## lattiboy

humax said:


> Since the C2 also came short color-wise, it is probably an inherent limitation of the current ALPD 3.0/4.0 designs, not a matter of image processing. I believe there is still a color wheel somewhere in the T1's light path, although I read somewhere it does not act like a classic color wheel, but it is just for blue color (for increased brightness perhaps?). The other RGB laser engines so far that hit 100% REC.2020 or more seem to be completely wheel free. Maybe that's the culprit? I really wish I am just talking nonsense and it can be fixed right now, so not having to wait for an ALPD 5.0 version, but I doubt it.
> 
> However, incorporating even a rudimentary CMS in their firmware should be easier and doable in their current models. People are asking for it. Sooner or later Xiaomi/Fengmi will have to provide. It has already been 5-6 years their models are lacking it. The international version seems like a good starting point, provided someone from Fengmi will listen.


Having owned three multi-laser PJs I have to say that 90-100% coverage is very subtle. The Bomaker Polaris is well over 100%, but even on videos designed to produce the whole gamut of colors you have to be real discerning to see the difference. It’s there, but it’s not really noticeable unless you’re watching nature documentaries or demo footage.

The difference in contrast and black levels is *much* more noticable and if the price of that is some edge case color coverage I must say almost everybody would pick contrast if seen side by side. I’ve literally gone between the T1 and the Polaris on the same material, and it is wild how much darker and contrasty the T1 is. I couldn’t even switch it back for a full day as the gray was everywhere, even if the color was spectacular.


----------



## humax

lattiboy said:


> Having owned three multi-laser PJs I have to say that 90-100% coverage is very subtle. The Bomaker Polaris is well over 100%, but even on videos designed to produce the whole gamut of colors you have to be real discerning to see the difference. It’s there, but it’s not really noticeable unless you’re watching nature documentaries or demo footage.
> 
> The difference in contrast and black levels is *much* more noticable and if the price of that is some edge case color coverage I must say almost everybody would pick contrast if seen side by side. I’ve literally gone between the T1 and the Polaris on the same material, and it is wild how much darker and contrasty the T1 is. I couldn’t even switch it back for a full day as the gray was everywhere, even if the color was spectacular.



Yes, this has been discussed to death. Contrast is the nr.1 parameter for a three-dimensional image, but Fengmi C2 and the Xiaomi 1S second edition hit 3500:1 easily, so even contrast-wise there is room for improvement (possibly by adding a lower brightness mode on the T1). At this point, 100% REC.2020 for this model is just wishful thinking. However, being able to calibrate it for accurate color is not. Changing settings for every movie will not work for most people. Is HDR too dark? Fine, just give me gamma presets, so I can find the one that suits me better. Some, if not all, of these things, should not be too hard to do, if their firmware team set their minds to it. Unless, they come out with another tri-laser in the upcoming months, there is no reason not to take the time optimizing T1's software.


----------



## m0j0

humax said:


> Yes, this has been discussed to death. Contrast is the nr.1 parameter for a three-dimensional image, but Fengmi C2 and the Xiaomi 1S second edition hit 3500:1 easily, so even contrast-wise there is room for improvement (possibly by adding a lower brightness mode on the T1). At this point, 100% REC.2020 for this model is just wishful thinking. However, being able to calibrate it for accurate color is not. Changing settings for every movie will not work for most people. Is HDR too dark? Fine, just give me gamma presets, so I can find the one that suits me better. Some, if not all, of these things, should not be too hard to do, if their firmware team set their minds to it. Unless, they come out with another tri-laser in the upcoming months, there is no reason not to take the time optimizing T1's software.


Totally agree on the need for some gamma presets!


----------



## m0j0

The picture is so compelling on the T1 that I often find myself watching kids shows that my kids are watching just because it’s so beautiful and mesmerizing!


----------



## ted_b

To ready myslf for the T1/Vividstorm arrival (and the unboxing and installing of my ATV4K, Lyngdorf pre/pro and Sony 800 BD player) I am looking at HDMI cables! I have a whole large box of them but most are more than 4-5 yrs old. So I ordered a Cable Matters Active fiber hybrid 5M HDMI for pre/pro to T1 (no video processor bought yet; that's a whole 'nother question). Is this a good cable decision for the T1, and should I buy a few 1M (all sources in same rack as pre/pro) 8K certified HDMi cables, too, or will the ones included with those sources listed work fine? Thx


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

So for me I got the 2.xxx firmware and I see and notice no differences.
I had hoped it would fix my dark HDR / DV but it has not, and I dont see any new view modes or settings.

Started watching the House on Haunted Hill and you have to set it to DV bright mode just to make out anything, and its still pretty dark.


----------



## ted_b

Another newbie question, sorry: I notice that UST screen makers like Vividstorm have little, if any, black borders, let alone felt or another light absorbing material. How does one align the T1 on screens like this, yet not avoid overscan spillage to front wall, etc?


----------



## m0j0

ted_b said:


> Another newbie question, sorry: I notice that UST screen makers like Vividstorm have little, if any, black borders, let alone felt or another light absorbing material. How does one align the T1 on screens like this, yet not avoid overscan spillage to front wall, etc?


The T1 is the 2nd UST I've had. The first one was a HiSense 100L5F and it came with a screen that has a small 1/2" frame made of metal, so you really didn't want overspill hitting that. As a result, it was very important to follow the recommendation of the manufacturer in terms of how high to hang the screen. If you can get the screen level and hang it at the correct height so that the projected light from the UST at bottom perfectly lines up with the bottom of the screen while also ensuring you have the projector pulled back far enough from the wall to reach both the left and right side of the screen, you will be able to dial everything in good from there. My current screen also has a 1/2" border, but it is felt covered, so does make it a little easier to dial in and not worry too much about overspill. Also, the T1 keystone correction is really good if you need to use it to make those little micro adjustments.

One other thing to note. If you hang the screen too high, you will not be able to adjust the light that projects up on the bottom of the screen any lower. As you move the projector back, it can go up higher, but not lower, so you may want to hang the screen about a 1/4" lower than you think you need just to be safe. You can always adjust the overspill a little if you need to.


----------



## zaselim

m0j0 said:


> The T1 is the 2nd UST I've had. The first one was a HiSense 100L5F and it came with a screen that has a small 1/2" frame made of metal, so you really didn't want overspill hitting that. As a result, it was very important to follow the recommendation of the manufacturer in terms of how high to hang the screen. If you can get the screen level and hang it at the correct height so that the projected light from the UST at bottom perfectly lines up with the bottom of the screen while also ensuring you have the projector pulled back far enough from the wall to reach both the left and right side of the screen, you will be able to dial everything in good from there. My current screen also has a 1/2" border, but it is felt covered, so does make it a little easier to dial in and not worry too much about overspill. Also, the T1 keystone correction is really good if you need to use it to make those little micro adjustments.
> 
> One other thing to note. If you hang the screen too high, you will not be able to adjust the light that projects up on the bottom of the screen any lower. As you move the projector back, it can go up higher, but not lower, so you may want to hang the screen about a 1/4" lower than you think you need just to be safe. You can always adjust the overspill a little if you need to.


How was Hisense 100L5F and how is your experience so far with T1 over 100L5F?


----------



## donw

Question about HDMI splitters or switches. How are you all sending HDMI from your primary source to both a TV and this projector. We will eventually buy a new receiver (Onkyo TX-RZ50R) when they're actually available for its Dirac and HDMI 2.1 switching. But for now, I need to be able to send an HDMI output from an Android box to both our old TV and this projector. HDMI 2.0B splitters are readily available, but I've only found one 2.1 for $80. Not sure it's even worth it, as Dolby Vision and HDR+ streams are not readily available, yet.


----------



## indieke2

humax said:


> Since the C2 also came short color-wise, it is probably an inherent limitation of the current ALPD 3.0/4.0 designs, not a matter of image processing. I believe there is still a color wheel somewhere in the T1's light path, although I read somewhere it does not act like a classic color wheel, but it is just for blue color (for increased brightness perhaps?). The other RGB laser engines so far that hit 100% REC.2020 or more seem to be completely wheel free. Maybe that's the culprit? I really wish I am just talking nonsense and it can be fixed right now, so not having to wait for an ALPD 5.0 version, but I doubt it.
> 
> However, incorporating even a rudimentary CMS in their firmware should be easier and doable in their current models. People are asking for it. Sooner or later Xiaomi/Fengmi will have to provide. It has already been 5-6 years their models are lacking it. The international version seems like a good starting point, provided someone from Fengmi will listen.


I not own this projector. I choose the Xiaomi C2. Is fine, maybe the T1 one gives more satisfaction, I choose the C2, because I not wanted to be depended on the T1 update of the software. I waited 6 months for the HDR switching on the FENGMI C2. It never came.

But I am in trouble anyway. As the PQ of the Xiaomi, is more then satisfying, I just have the rainbows that spoil the party too much. It is not that I am fixing on them. In bright scenes, it is hardly noticeable. In dark scenes with light here and there it is a torture, like Exodus, Gods and kings.

But as I am Flemish, I always use subtitles. Now you watch the movie and you have to move your eyes lower to read them. Maybe that is why, I see the rainbows also much more.

I not have a solution. I bought the expensive Vividstorm screen, for UST, but if I sell my projector, then all DLP will have the same problem for me. Going to LCD, is difficult going back on less quality, change to a normal projector will not do with vividstorm, and have to loose money to change it all. Also, I really will miss Dolby Vision, that is really an advantage

With the 3 lasers, maybe I not see it any more if the color wheel act differently with the blue laser. I need opinion about this, from people who are really sensitive about the rainbows, as myself.


----------



## lattiboy

indieke2 said:


> I not own this projector. I choose the Xiaomi C2. Is fine, maybe the T1 one gives more satisfaction, I choose the C2, because I not wanted to be depended on the T1 update of the software. I waited 6 months for the HDR switching on the FENGMI C2. It never came.
> 
> But I am in trouble anyway. As the PQ of the Xiaomi, is more then satisfying, I just have the rainbows that spoil the party too much. It is not that I am fixing on them. In bright scenes, it is hardly noticeable. In dark scenes with light here and there it is a torture, like Exodus, Gods and kings.
> 
> But as I am Flemish, I always use subtitles. Now you watch the movie and you have to move your eyes lower to read them. Maybe that is why, I see the rainbows also much more.
> 
> I not have a solution. I bought the expensive Vividstorm screen, for UST, but if I sell my projector, then all DLP will have the same problem for me. Going to LCD, is difficult going back on less quality, change to a normal projector will not do with vividstorm, and have to loose money to change it all. Also, I really will miss Dolby Vision, that is really an advantage
> 
> With the 3 lasers, maybe I not see it any more if the color wheel act differently with the blue laser. I need opinion about this, from people who are really sensitive about the rainbows, as myself.


The Bomaker Polaris is a very good tri-laser projector. I sold mine for the T1, but the guy who bought it from me specifically tested scenes that had rainbows as he was very sensitive. He didn’t see any in his testing. 

Now, no DLP will have black level and contrast like Xiaomi / Fengmi, but the Bomaker would be my pick if I had to get one. I believe they’re pretty inexpensive, especially considering it is so close to the Hisense L9 at twice the price.


----------



## indieke2

lattiboy said:


> The Bomaker Polaris is a very good tri-laser projector. I sold mine for the T1, but the guy who bought it from me specifically tested scenes that had rainbows as he was very sensitive. He didn’t see any in his testing.
> 
> Now, no DLP will have black level and contrast like Xiaomi / Fengmi, but the Bomaker would be my pick if I had to get one. I believe they’re pretty inexpensive, especially considering it is so close to the Hisense L9 at twice the price.


I not know this projector. But why should it has less rainbows or none, compared to the T1? For contrast and DV, I would prefer the T1, if as a 3 laser, the RBE was as good as gone or non existent.


----------



## eezrider

indieke2 said:


> I not know this projector. But why should it has less rainbows or none, compared to the T1? For contrast and DV, I would prefer the T1, if as a 3 laser, the RBE was as good as gone or non existent.


I had the Polaris and sold it after getting the T1. I noticed RBE quite often on the Polaris, particularly when glancing down at subtitles. I have never seen RBE on the T1. YMMV


----------



## m0j0

indieke2 said:


> I not know this projector. But why should it has less rainbows or none, compared to the T1? For contrast and DV, I would prefer the T1, if as a 3 laser, the RBE was as good as gone or non existent.


I haven't seen any RBE in regular content at all with the T1. I used to own a UHD60 DLP projector a few years ago and could see RBE sometimes on that unit, so I know what it looks like.


----------



## m0j0

zaselim said:


> How was Hisense 100L5F and how is your experience so far with T1 over 100L5F?


At the time, I thought the HiSense was great, very colorful and bright. It didn't do well with HDR though, so that is why I bought a Vertex2 in the first place. However, now having the T1, I could never go back to the 100L5F. The colors don't pop and the contrast is poor in comparison. It's also more hazy/fuzzy on the 100L5F whereas the T1 is so crystal clear.


----------



## zaselim

m0j0 said:


> At the time, I thought the HiSense was great, very colorful and bright. It didn't do well with HDR though, so that is why I bought a Vertex2 in the first place. However, now having the T1, I could never go back to the 100L5F. The colors don't pop and the contrast is poor in comparison. It's also more hazy/fuzzy on the 100L5F whereas the T1 is so crystal clear.


Right, thanks.


----------



## DeanM3

I have very sensitive to RBE and notice it from time to time on the T1. It's not distracting and much better than the my previous Xiaomi unit.


----------



## rooterha

DeanM3 said:


> I have very sensitive to RBE and notice it from time to time on the T1. It's not distracting and much better than the my previous Xiaomi unit.


Sounds similar to the L9G. I can make it happen in specific scenes if I move my eyes around but if I'm fixed I almost never notice it.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Hey y'all, it looks like Fengmi/Formovie is a bit more receptive to a USA sales channel and I received some contracts from them this morning in that regard.

I'd love to get some feedback from some of you T1 owners regarding your experience with the units, price paid and from where, what "premium" you'd pay for an android based unit vs ordering from China with FengOS as well as USA support, etc before I decide if/how I want to proceed with them.

Have to do it outside of this thread per AVS Rules; please DM if interested in chatting. Much appreciated!


----------



## 3sprit

indieke2 said:


> I not have a solution. I bought the expensive Vividstorm screen, for UST, but if I sell my projector, then all DLP will have the same problem for me. Going to LCD, is difficult going back on less quality, change to a normal projector will not do with vividstorm, and have to loose money to change it all. Also, I really will miss Dolby Vision, that is really an advantage


Your solution:


Test Epson EH-LS500B : l’avis de Grégory – – Le Blog de PHC –


----------



## Ricoflashback

3sprit said:


> Your solution:
> 
> 
> Test Epson EH-LS500B : l’avis de Grégory – – Le Blog de PHC –


The "up periscope" kills it for me. I can't think of a more fugly projector.


----------



## aerodynamics

Ricoflashback said:


> The "up periscope" kills it for me. I can't think of a more fugly projector.


I really hope their next iteration of this is a UST version of the LS12000. Now that would be mind blowing.


----------



## 3sprit

Ricoflashback said:


> The "up periscope" kills it for me. I can't think of a more fugly projector.


I had it, it's a good product, very bright and zero RBE.


----------



## Ricoflashback

aerodynamics said:


> I really hope their next iteration of this is a UST version of the LS12000. Now that would be mind blowing.


The LS12000 doesn’t have the color pop and black levels of the T1 due to the ALPD 4.0 technology. More than anything else, I’d like to see a horizontal/vertical shift capability with lens memory for a scope screen. That would rock everyone’s world.


----------



## m0j0

So, I think I figured out what’s happening with the dynamic contrast setting. If I am on custom and I turn dynamic contrast off, it stays off, even on power off/on. If I switch to a preset like child mode, then later switch back to custom, dynamic contrast setting goes back to on, I assume because it gets turned on automatically with the preset modes. Now that I know that, I just go and turn it back off when I switch back to custom.


----------



## m0j0

Another little issue I had today was the tv being in 1080p when I turned it on today. I had to switch to hdmi 2.0 then back to hdmi 2.1 to get everything back to normal.


----------



## m0j0

So, right up front, I'm no photographer and have virtually no skills with picture taking. I have been uploading photos of the T1 but never felt like it was even close to what I am seeing in person. I read an article or two on white balance and with a few clicks in photoshop, I think I am getting a bit closer to the colors I see. Here's three photos with auto color correction, removing color haze, etc. run from photoshop. This is a little more close to what I see in person.


----------



## CabbageMan

I got the alpha firmware update 2.0.0.2079 but I just booted up my projector for the first time in a few days as I was away for the weekend and now I’m seeing I have another available update to 2.0.0.2171. Has anyone else gotten this update or have any details on what’s included in this update?


----------



## lattiboy

CabbageMan said:


> I got the alpha firmware update 2.0.0.2079 but I just booted up my projector for the first time in a few days as I was away for the weekend and now I’m seeing I have another available update to 2.0.0.2171. Has anyone else gotten this update or have any details on what’s included in this update?


Downloading it now. Same boat, I think this is for the OS mostly. Here’s the release notes translated:


Tabletop

• Fix the problem that the installation app only shows 3 rows.

• Fix the problem that CCTV cloud audio-visual apps cannot be displayed.

• Optimize the screen saver interaction logic, classify the screen saver content, and make it convenient for users to choose

Choose.

Play it.

• Update iQIYI SDK to fix some iQIYI paid videos that cannot be played

Question.

Smart Voice

• Optimize the far-field voice wake-up algorithm to reduce the false wake-up rate.


----------



## lattiboy

Quick checked DV after the update and it is still good! Great news for everybody if this is the actual update going out wide. If you didn’t have the alpha firmware, let us know if you got it!


----------



## CabbageMan

lattiboy said:


> Downloading it now. Same boat, I think this is for the OS mostly. Here’s the release notes translated:
> 
> 
> Tabletop
> 
> • Fix the problem that the installation app only shows 3 rows.
> 
> • Fix the problem that CCTV cloud audio-visual apps cannot be displayed.
> 
> • Optimize the screen saver interaction logic, classify the screen saver content, and make it convenient for users to choose
> 
> Choose.
> 
> Play it.
> 
> • Update iQIYI SDK to fix some iQIYI paid videos that cannot be played
> 
> Question.
> 
> Smart Voice
> 
> • Optimize the far-field voice wake-up algorithm to reduce the false wake-up rate.
> 
> View attachment 3250180





lattiboy said:


> Quick checked DV after the update and it is still good! Great news for everybody if this is the actual update going out wide. If you didn’t have the alpha firmware, let us know if you got it!


That’s great to hear! I guess I could’ve just translated the notes too but didn’t feel like putting in the effort lol.


----------



## lattiboy

I think the color intensity in DV has been turned down some and things look much more balanced. Kind of bummed because I liked the intense colors, but I think it may be worth it as I’m seeing less speckle and overall picture is a bit brighter. Somewhat disconcertingly dark and bright mode in DV don’t seem to do anything anymore….

EDIT: there have been some substantial changes to DV and to HDR, even from the Alpha. HDR is looking very, very good for me and colors seem to be richer with much less blow out. This was the scene I used to use for reference and the Bomaker Polaris always bested everything here, but the T1 is now as good or better. It’s from an LG video called “Floating Garden” on YouTube if you want to check it out. About 48 seconds in:


----------



## eezrider

lattiboy said:


> I think the color intensity in DV has been turned down some and things look much more balanced. Kind of bummed because I liked the intense colors, but I think it may be worth it as I’m seeing less speckle and overall picture is a bit brighter. Somewhat disconcertingly dark and bright mode in DV don’t seem to do anything anymore….
> 
> EDIT: there have been some substantial changes to DV and to HDR, even from the Alpha. HDR is looking very, very good for me and colors seem to be richer with much less blow out. This was the scene I used to use for reference and the Bomaker Polaris always bested everything here, but the T1 is now as good or better. It’s from an LG video called “Floating Garden” on YouTube if you want to check it out. About 48 seconds in:
> 
> View attachment 3250214


I had noticed that dark /bright had little effect with the alpha. @lattiboy, are you using your same settings with this new version?


----------



## lattiboy

eezrider said:


> I had noticed that dark /bright had little effect with the alpha. @lattiboy, are you using your same settings with this new version?


Same as before.No time to recalibrate right now. Adaptive Contrast is off for me.


----------



## Deanodxb

ProjectionHead said:


> Hey y'all, it looks like Fengmi/Formovie is a bit more receptive to a USA sales channel and I received some contracts from them this morning in that regard.
> 
> I'd love to get some feedback from some of you T1 owners regarding your experience with the units, price paid and from where, what "premium" you'd pay for an android based unit vs ordering from China with FengOS as well as USA support, etc before I decide if/how I want to proceed with them.
> 
> Have to do it outside of this thread per AVS Rules; please DM if interested in chatting. Much appreciated!


Great so far. Mine was US$2100 + shipping. I have seen them advertised now for just below US$2000 on Alibaba. As nice as the unit is, I probably would not have bought the projector if it was US$3,000 or more.

Unit is well designed, rock solid build quality - certainly on par with the investment they must have made with B&W for the sound system. Runs cool and quiet also, even on the office brightness setting.

Only have a few niggles so far:

- colour saturation - I have my settings pretty dialed and contrast/blacks are amazing in but every once in a while a scene in a movie shows unnaturally bright colors - green and red of a traffic light, for instance. I'm on the original firmware, hope this is resolved for me when the new firmware is released.

- focus - I want to be able to set the focus while playing content. At the moment you are limited to setting focus showing only Fengmi's test pattern.

- unit has a built in clock, but you can't set or change the time.

- the manual shows an option for a zoom feature but this is not yet enabled in the menu and I'm not sure it will ever be. I have written to Fengmi on this but not had a response yet.

- obviously it would be great to have the usual slew of 'Western' apps direct on the T1 (Netflix, You Tube, VLC, etc.).

Perhaps you can raise the above with Fengmi?


----------



## lattiboy

An HDR shot from Awaken, before and after the update. I think dynamic contrast was stuck on previously even if disabled:

Old firmware:









New firmware:










Also, display mode is almost perfectly calibrated. If you don’t wanna mess with settings just use display mode and view brightness and you’re 95% there.


----------



## GaeIta80

lattiboy said:


> An HDR shot from Awaken, before and after the update. I think dynamic contrast was stuck on previously even if disabled:
> 
> Old firmware:
> View attachment 3250238
> 
> 
> New firmware:
> 
> View attachment 3250240
> 
> 
> Also, display mode is almost perfectly calibrated. If you don’t wanna mess with settings just use display mode and view brightness and you’re 95% there.


Amazing news! DV still office/dark?


----------



## humax

ProjectionHead said:


> I'd love to get some feedback from some of you T1 owners regarding your experience with the units, price paid and from where, what "premium" you'd pay for an android based unit vs ordering from China with FengOS as well as USA support, etc before I decide if/how I want to proceed with them.



Full CMS + latest android version + full 4K license for Netflix/Prime I believe are the minimum prerequisites, if they want to sell more units in the US. As for the price, 2500$ tops with two year warranty/support.


----------



## Philjam94

Bonjour
Bonjour à tous
Je suis nouveau sur le forum et propriétaire d'un T1. Je viens de France et j'aimerais savoir si quelqu'un de France a déjà eu une mise à jour


----------



## rjyap

Still no v2.0 firmware for non-Alpha tester.


----------



## humax

rjyap said:


> Still no v2.0 firmware for non-Alpha tester.



Isn't supposed to come out in mid-March? One week left.


----------



## mirzank

I pm’ed you. Could you please pm me where to get it at this price. Cant find one. 

Also want to know what taxes you paid getting it into dubai. 



Deanodxb said:


> Great so far. Mine was US$2100 + shipping. I have seen them advertised now for just below US$2000 on Alibaba. As nice as the unit is, I probably would not have bought the projector if it was US$3,000 or more.
> 
> Unit is well designed, rock solid build quality - certainly on par with the investment they must have made with B&W for the sound system. Runs cool and quiet also, even on the office brightness setting.
> 
> Only have a few niggles so far:
> 
> - colour saturation - I have my settings pretty dialed and contrast/blacks are amazing in but every once in a while a scene in a movie shows unnaturally bright colors - green and red of a traffic light, for instance. I'm on the original firmware, hope this is resolved for me when the new firmware is released.
> 
> - focus - I want to be able to set the focus while playing content. At the moment you are limited to setting focus showing only Fengmi's test pattern.
> 
> - unit has a built in clock, but you can't set or change the time.
> 
> - the manual shows an option for a zoom feature but this is not yet enabled in the menu and I'm not sure it will ever be. I have written to Fengmi on this but not had a response yet.
> 
> - obviously it would be great to have the usual slew of 'Western' apps direct on the T1 (Netflix, You Tube, VLC, etc.).
> 
> Perhaps you can raise the above with Fengmi?


----------



## Directtv999

Am getting T1 tomorrow anythings need to checked after opening the box and how to change language?


----------



## CabbageMan

Directtv999 said:


> Am getting T1 tomorrow anythings need to checked after opening the box and how to change language?


Where did you buy it from? The probably changed the language to English for you. I would check to see what software version you have to see if your unit has the update, if not it should be launching soon. Then after that I would just roll with most of the recommended settings that you see in this forum.


----------



## Directtv999

CabbageMan said:


> Where did you buy it from? The probably changed the language to English for you. I would check to see what software version you have to see if your unit has the update, if not it should be launching soon. Then after that I would just roll with most of the recommended settings that you see in this forum.


From alibaba


----------



## zoomx2

Deanodxb said:


> Great so far. Mine was US$2100 + shipping. I have seen them advertised now for just below US$2000 on Alibaba. As nice as the unit is, I probably would not have bought the projector if it was US$3,000 or more.
> 
> Unit is well designed, rock solid build quality - certainly on par with the investment they must have made with B&W for the sound system. Runs cool and quiet also, even on the office brightness setting.
> 
> Only have a few niggles so far:
> 
> - colour saturation - I have my settings pretty dialed and contrast/blacks are amazing in but every once in a while a scene in a movie shows unnaturally bright colors - green and red of a traffic light, for instance. I'm on the original firmware, hope this is resolved for me when the new firmware is released.
> 
> - focus - I want to be able to set the focus while playing content. At the moment you are limited to setting focus showing only Fengmi's test pattern.
> 
> - unit has a built in clock, but you can't set or change the time.
> 
> - the manual shows an option for a zoom feature but this is not yet enabled in the menu and I'm not sure it will ever be. I have written to Fengmi on this but not had a response yet.
> 
> - obviously it would be great to have the usual slew of 'Western' apps direct on the T1 (Netflix, You Tube, VLC, etc.).
> 
> Perhaps you can raise the above with Fengmi?


You can install a APK in the unit but it is very annoying to exit the apps in order to change the settings from the main menu. So I use my custom settings same as HDMI ports. I reported to [email protected] about it. The Netflix version I download require a mouse it doesn’t work well with the original remote so I am not using it. But DAZN, YouTube works well and the pictures are better than my media box.


----------



## Ricoflashback

humax said:


> Full CMS + latest android version + full 4K license for Netflix/Prime I believe are the minimum prerequisites, if they want to sell more units in the US. As for the price, 2500$ tops with two year warranty/support.


I'm not big on native apps. Third-party streamers do a much better job than 99% of native apps, IMHO, - - whether that be a TV or a projector. Warranty - yeah, two years would be nice but until there is a U.S. Distributor (or a Distributor/Sales/Service/Support in your country) for Xiaomi/Fengmi - - I don't see any support available. When I pickup my Fengmi T1, I hope I don't have to use any support. If I can get three (minimum) to five years out of a projector - - I'm very happy. By then, there are significant improvements, technology and picture wise that make me want to upgrade.


----------



## zoomx2

2.0.0.2171 say it is a test version.


----------



## MarviGito

Directtv999 said:


> From alibaba


How much did it all cost including shipping?


----------



## Directtv999

MarviGito said:


> How much did it all cost including shipping?


sent you PM as we cannot discuss price here


----------



## eezrider

Ricoflashback said:


> I'm not big on native apps. Third-party streamers do a much better job than 99% of native apps, IMHO, - - whether that be a TV or a projector. Warranty - yeah, two years would be nice but until there is a U.S. Distributor (or a Distributor/Sales/Service/Support in your country) for Xiaomi/Fengmi - - I don't see any support available. When I pickup my Fengmi T1, I hope I don't have to use any support. If I can get three (minimum) to five years out of a projector - - I'm very happy. By then, there are significant improvements, technology and picture wise that make me want to upgrade.


The question being asked is in the context of setting up a US distributorship. Agree that native apps are not essential if this is positioned as a projector not a TV. Not sure where the competition would be at that price, so price could be higher, but go too high and people will buy/import from AliBaba. 

When I purchased I was offered an alternative to buy from stock in a warehouse in the US, price quoted was similar to ex-China price but would have had local shipping + US sales tax, and at the time an additional month delay. It was moot for me as I was committed by that time to another Chinese dealer. 

I'm think I'd have paid up to $500 tops for the privilege of a clean deal + warranty (to cover DOA mostly), with no worries about import, but have expected free shipping in the US  

If you import the projector I also recommend you get a deal for Fengmi wireless subwoofer & satellites and their automatic projector stage. Same dealer on AliBaba above sells the stage for under $300, and I've seen the sub for around $250.


----------



## Daryl972

Hello I just received my Fengmi Formovie T1.
I am in Canada (110 V) and I know this VP is done for 240V, but I just saw at the first page of this topic that the power supply is a global version and that it will work on 110 / 240 V. Is that sure ?
What will arrive if not and If I put it on 110V ?

Thanks a lot.


----------



## Brajesh

Yes, sure. It works fine on 110v. Just need a plug adapter and not a voltage converter.


----------



## Deanodxb

mirzank said:


> I pm’ed you. Could you please pm me where to get it at this price. Cant find one.
> 
> Also want to know what taxes you paid getting it into dubai.


I didn’t pay any taxes, not even the 5% customs duty. They used a Chinese logistics company but took an absolute age to ship. When I asked them to expedite with FedEx or DHL they said they could, but then I would also pay taxes. I decided to be patient to see if they could get the T1 delivered without tax - and they did! Shipping was US$250 so maybe the taxes were pre-paid and included. I don’t know.


----------



## Deanodxb

mirzank said:


> I pm’ed you. Could you please pm me where to get it at this price. Cant find one.
> 
> Also want to know what taxes you paid getting it into dubai.


Replied to DM. 

I didn’t pay any taxes, not even the 5% customs duty. They used a Chinese logistics company but took an absolute age to ship. When I asked them to expedite with FedEx or DHL they said they could, but then I would also pay taxes. I decided to be patient to see if they could get the T1 delivered without tax - and they did!


----------



## rooterha

ProjectionHead said:


> Hey y'all, it looks like Fengmi/Formovie is a bit more receptive to a USA sales channel and I received some contracts from them this morning in that regard.
> 
> I'd love to get some feedback from some of you T1 owners regarding your experience with the units, price paid and from where, what "premium" you'd pay for an android based unit vs ordering from China with FengOS as well as USA support, etc before I decide if/how I want to proceed with them.
> 
> Have to do it outside of this thread per AVS Rules; please DM if interested in chatting. Much appreciated!


Maybe like $500 below the PX1-Pro? If it's better in most ways and has a decent warranty that seems fair to me. Only priced lower because it doesn't have brand recognition.


----------



## rooterha

I ordered from Wu Pro with a Vividstorm and they claim it will ship tomorrow or in 2 days, they told me 5 days production time for the Vividstorm so that is consistent with that. We will see if it actually ships that quick.


----------



## m0j0

Ok, one little nuisance with the new firmware. If you select custom the first time, you can go in and make any changes such as contrast, tone, etc. However, once you go out of custom, you can't click custom again to make changes. It does nothing when you click on it (when it's already checked). You have to select one of the preset values such as child, display, etc., then you can select custom again and make changes. Not a big deal, just different than before. On a positive note, it looks like turning off dynamic contrast in custom, then switching to preset modes, then back again to custom doesn't turn on dynamic contrast like it did before.


----------



## humax

eezrider said:


> Agree that native apps are not essential if this is positioned as a projector not a TV.



The android version is unofficially marketed as Fengmi Laser Tv as is the case with most newer USTs. As for native app support, I already own 3-4 of the most popular streamers, but I use my android tv's Netflix and Youtube built-in apps all the time. Especially at night, when I am tired, I don't even bother looking for the streamer's remote. I just press Netflix on my tv's remote.


----------



## m0j0

When working with the Vertex2 and the ATV4K, I found this process works best:

1. Make your setting change on the Vertex2 (typically I am adjusting values to see what looks best in the custom DV section)
2. Go to your video settings on the ATV and switch to a different setting, such as 4k HDR, for example, then switch back to your normal mode, such as 4K Dolby Vision
3. Select a preset mode and then select custom. At this point, the change you made in the Vertex2 should be visible/active.


----------



## Ricoflashback

eezrider said:


> The question being asked is in the context of setting up a US distributorship. Agree that native apps are not essential if this is positioned as a projector not a TV. Not sure where the competition would be at that price, so price could be higher, but go too high and people will buy/import from AliBaba.
> 
> When I purchased I was offered an alternative to buy from stock in a warehouse in the US, price quoted was similar to ex-China price but would have had local shipping + US sales tax, and at the time an additional month delay. It was moot for me as I was committed by that time to another Chinese dealer.
> 
> I'm think I'd have paid up to $500 tops for the privilege of a clean deal + warranty (to cover DOA mostly), with no worries about import, but have expected free shipping in the US
> 
> If you import the projector I also recommend you get a deal for Fengmi wireless subwoofer & satellites and their automatic projector stage. Same dealer on AliBaba above sells the stage for under $300, and I've seen the sub for around $250.


In the past, I bought a Chi-Fi, tube amplifier that was a couple hundred dollars more from Amazon as opposed to a Chinese seller. But it came with an Amazon guarantee and a distributor already setup. I also received the unit within ten days as they were already in the United States. *PM me, please,* on the US warehouse alternative. I wasn't aware that any Fengmi T1's were available via this route.

I think I'll try the B&W speakers as we'll be in an apartment prior to finding a house. At that time, I'll setup my Dolby Atmos system (hopefully) and pickup a Furnitech stand for my components. Since my Fengmi T1 will be in the living room, I also ordered a Holosonics directional speaker for late night watching. A focused, "beam of light" like audio signal that is used in commercial applications for museums and trade shows. I hope the 3.5mm jack works on the Fengmi T1!


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> Ok, one little nuisance with the new firmware. If you select custom the first time, you can go in and make any changes such as contrast, tone, etc. However, once you go out of custom, you can't click custom again to make changes. It does nothing when you click on it (when it's already checked). You have to select one of the preset values such as child, display, etc., then you can select custom again and make changes. Not a big deal, just different than before. On a positive note, it looks like turning off dynamic contrast in custom, then switching to preset modes, then back again to custom doesn't turn on dynamic contrast like it did before.


Hey M0J0 - - you need to publish your "online guide to the Fengmi T1." Five bucks will work. You know - - a "Cliff's Notes" version of all the tips you've provided throughout this thread.


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> Hey M0J0 - - you need to publish your "online guide to the Fengmi T1." Five bucks will work. You know - - a "Cliff's Notes" version of all the tips you've provided throughout this thread.


Would probably be a good idea for someone to pull together a list of tips and tricks for the T1.


----------



## ted_b

Yes, I asked for that earlier in this thread. I'd chip in $$.  Seriously. And since I have saved monies from going the classic JVC and Stewart route I am wondering, again, if a necessity is a video processor (Arcana, Vertex, Vertex2) or should I wait for more firmware enhancements that may make this addition somewhat moot.


----------



## m0j0

ted_b said:


> Yes, I asked for that earlier in this thread. I'd chip in $$.  Seriously. And since I have saved monies from going the classic JVC and Stewart route I am wondering, again, if a necessity is a video processor (Arcana, Vertex, Vertex2) or should I wait for more firmware enhancements that may make this addition somewhat moot.


From my experience, I do recommend an HDFury device with this projector, or any projector for that matter.


----------



## ted_b

m0j0 said:


> From my experience, I do recommend an HDFury device with this projector, or any projector for that matter.


HDFury has quite a lineup, and not sure if the least expensive Arcana (used by @lattiboy for example) or the Vertex (or Vertex2, like yours, but not sure of the differences) is the right choice for the T1. Never used one (obviously  ). My pre/pro is a Lyngdorf MP-40 and the sources are the ATV4K, Sony 800 bd, and a pc (all HDMI). Probably a Roku Ultra or another streamer may be added. None are unboxed yet, so I have no realworld experience yet. My past is a JVC and Stewart classic standard throw setup at the former home.

Thx again for all your help...


----------



## m0j0

ted_b said:


> HDFury has quite a lineup, and not sure if the least expensive Arcana (used by @lattiboy for example) or the Vertex (or Vertex2, like yours, but not sure of the differences) is the right choice. Never used one (obviously  )
> 
> Thx again for all your help...


The question comes up a lot. I recommend the Vertex2 or higher. I can't live without the GUI interface and I just like all the options available to me.


----------



## shanedowley

m0j0 said:


> The question comes up a lot. I recommend the Vertex2 or higher. I can't live without the GUI interface and I just like all the options available to me.


I agree. The HDFury Vertex2 is a great piece of kit. And with devices such as the T1 it’s really helpful in seeing and understanding what’s going on under the hood of the projector (or any HDMI display device for that matter). Specifically I’ve found the Vertex2 to be great in helping with the Xiaomi C2’s HDMI EDID handshake issues (the T1 has the same issue). The Vertex2 is also a big help in getting the most out of the projector’s PQ potential for the various video formats (SDR, HDR, DV, LLDV).


----------



## whiskthecat

shanedowley said:


> Specifically I’ve found the Vertex2 to be great in helping with the Xiaomi C2’s HDMI EDID handshake issues (the T1 has the same issue).


Someone earlier in the thread tried an HDFury to mitigate the handshaking issues on T1 with no success. Can you share what you are doing and what it results in?

Thanks.


----------



## ted_b

whiskthecat said:


> Someone earlier in the thread tried an HDFury to mitigate the handshaking issues on T1 with no success. Can you share what you are doing and what it results in?
> 
> Thanks.


This is from his post over in the C2 thread (some things C2-specific, of course):

_"Had my C2 about two months now and liking it more with each passing week. Am getting used to its characteristics and idiosyncrasies. My recommendations for best PQ and experience are listed below:

1./ Don't use any of the internal apps. They are generally rubbish. Use only HDMI external sources like Roku, Nvidia Shield, Apple TV 4K, 4k blu-ray etc.
2./ Get and use a dedicated UST ALR screen (0.6 gain). It just helps bring out the best contrast from the projector.
3./ When using HDMI streaming devices, have them set to SDR by default AND to 'match dynamic range'. This will cause the projector to switch between SDR, HDR and DV automatically for the content it receives from the source device. The C2 handles the different video formats very well, apart from the HDMI handshake issue which I'll get to later.
4./ For overall best or near-best picture settings, follow Gregory's settings from his review here - scroll all the way down for the English translation.
5./ When watching DV content, I find the Office mode brightness setting to be best. There really aren't any other settings to change when in DV mode, the rest are all locked.
*6./ A bug with the Xiaomi C2 (and for the Fengmi T1 also) is that on a reboot or restart, the HDMI EDID handshake between the projector and external source devices can go wrong meaning that the source devices often default to / top out at [email protected] or [email protected] This is because the sources are seeing the projector as a HDMI 1.4 device resulting in odd behaviour like not being able to play DV or HDR content correctly.
To correct the problem go to the projector settings menu (press the button to the right of the back button on the projector remote to activate the HDMI menu settings). Select Play Settings. Toggle the HDMI version between 2.1 and 2.0, settling on 2.0. This will force a HDMI handshake reboot and correctly reset the projector's HDMI version number so that the attached source sees the projector as a 4K60 444 DV BT2020 display.*

Enjoy  "

Not sure any of this helps, as it does not specifically mention the use of the Vertex2 in these solutions. But thought I'd pass his comments along._


----------



## lattiboy

I used the HD Fury Arcana with the T1 and while I can understand it improving things somewhat, I think it is in no way necessary. The T1 now handles HDR and DV as well as any projector I’m aware of natively. Also, my HDMI issues were not resolved with the Arcana. I still had to toggle 2.0 and 2.1 every few times I boot up.

The Vertex 2 has a lot more features, but at $600 I think it is very much for the perfectionists out there as the new firmware has tackled almost all the big image issues.


----------



## Ricoflashback

ted_b said:


> Yes, I asked for that earlier in this thread. I'd chip in $$.  Seriously. And since I have saved monies from going the classic JVC and Stewart route I am wondering, again, if a necessity is a video processor (Arcana, Vertex, Vertex2) or should I wait for more firmware enhancements that may make this addition somewhat moot.


I think we’re all bozos on this bus. Go ahead, squeeze the wheeze. Many like to. Back in the shadows again…

We need more Bozoettes to contribute to the AVS Forum. 🤡


----------



## rjyap

zoomx2 said:


> 2.0.0.2171 say it is a test version.


Looks like another week to wait. I don't want to calibrate my projector and create 3D LUT for madVR using older firmware.


----------



## zoomx2

m0j0 said:


> Ok, one little nuisance with the new firmware. If you select custom the first time, you can go in and make any changes such as contrast, tone, etc. However, once you go out of custom, you can't click custom again to make changes. It does nothing when you click on it (when it's already checked). You have to select one of the preset values such as child, display, etc., then you can select custom again and make changes. Not a big deal, just different than before. On a positive note, it looks like turning off dynamic contrast in custom, then switching to preset modes, then back again to custom doesn't turn on dynamic contrast like it did before.


It happens to me, I reported to [email protected] formovie.


----------



## Directtv999

Received the PJ today having hard time adjusting the picture on my 135” screen any suggestions?

And I got a US plug in the box is it safe to use or need to buy a power cable?

Thanks for @lattiboy @m0j0 for valuable suggestions and feedback here which made me buy this beauty.


----------



## m0j0

Directtv999 said:


> Received the PJ today having hard time adjusting the picture on my 135” screen any suggestions?
> 
> And I got a US plug in the box is it safe to use or need to buy a power cable?
> 
> Thanks for @lattiboy @m0j0 for valuable suggestions and feedback here which made me buy this beauty.


Do you mean you are having trouble getting the projected image aligned properly with the screen?


----------



## Directtv999

m0j0 said:


> Do you mean you are having trouble getting the projected image aligned properly with the screen?


Yes sir


----------



## lattiboy

Directtv999 said:


> Yes sir


Honestly, I would aim for 98% good. No matter how I’ve tried with now 3 USTs, I’ve never gotten 100% coverage. And you honestly don’t notice about 2-3% of the screen being out of whack when watching actual content. 100% requires an impossibly symmetrical room, perfectly aligned screen and PJ, and no chance of somebody bumping the console.


----------



## Directtv999

lattiboy said:


> Honestly, I would aim for 98% good. No matter how I’ve tried with now 3 USTs, I’ve never gotten 100% coverage. And you honestly don’t notice about 2-3% of the screen being out of whack when watching actual content. 100% requires an impossibly symmetrical room, perfectly aligned screen and PJ, and no chance of somebody bumping the console.


I spent almost an hour moving the projector adjusting height with no luck am happy if I can cover 90% of screen not sure what am doing wrong.


----------



## m0j0

Directtv999 said:


> Yes sir


So, do you have the screen on the wall then? Is the bottom lined up? What about the sides? Is there overspill or underspill? Are the lines straight or do you have trapezoid shapes?


----------



## zoomx2

Directtv999 said:


> I spent almost an hour moving the projector adjusting height with no luck am happy if I can cover 90% of screen not sure what am doing wrong.


The most important thing is to line up the bottom of the screen first. You can always reduce the screen by using keystone. Then go to Focus. In Focus go arrow left all the way first and right arrow slowly to adjust the top left square. You don't need to adjust the rest of squares.


----------



## Directtv999

m0j0 said:


> So, do you have the screen on the wall then? Is the bottom lined up? What about the sides? Is there overspill or underspill? Are the lines straight or do you have trapezoid shapes?


Yes on wall if I lined up bottom top or sides will go away and vice versa not sire how to use keystone and bottom screws to align the picture perfectly on screen


----------



## Directtv999

zoomx2 said:


> The most important thing is to line up the bottom of the screen first. You can always reduce the screen by using keystone. Then go to Focus. In Focus go arrow left all the way first and right arrow slowly to adjust the top left square. You don't need to adjust the rest of squares.


Will give a try


----------



## m0j0

Right, bottom is the first key, then try to get the sides as close as possible without keystone. I use keystone as the final touch up if necessary to pull things in, but try to avoid it if you can.


----------



## m0j0

Also, I’m not saying you should need this info, but there are adjustment wheels on the bottom left and right for the front feet. I didn’t have to use them when I set mine up, but who knows, it may help you.


----------



## oryschak

Directtv999 said:


> Will give a try


I had a terrible time adjusting my old USTs (L9G and LSP9T) and ended up (over)using keystone to get something that fit on my 120" screen. I had better luck with the T1 by doing this:

Make sure your surfaces are level. This includes making sure the screen is plumb, and adjusting your console before you even bother with the UST. I ended up putting adjustable level legs on a small shelf that I made for the UST. I leveled the shelf along width and depth, put the UST on and checked for level again. Made 95% of the difference.
Per previous comments, try to line up the bottom left and right first. The T1 doesn't have front adjustment feet for some reason so I ended up putting a small cloth under the front middle "foot" to push the image up into the top corners.
Even with this I couldn't get 100% perfect. The image turns up a bit on the bottom left and right, and the middle bottom dips down into my screen's frame. I don't notice it though once I actually start watching a show, and I was able to avoid using the keystone.

On a related focus note - I wasn't able to get the top-left in razor focus no matter how I adjusted the focus/screen/etc. Digital focus is all the way to the left.


----------



## zaselim

oryschak said:


> I had a terrible time adjusting my old USTs (L9G and LSP9T) and ended up (over)using keystone to get something that fit on my 120" screen. I had better luck with the T1 by doing this:
> 
> Make sure your surfaces are level. This includes making sure the screen is plumb, and adjusting your console before you even bother with the UST. I ended up putting adjustable level legs on a small shelf that I made for the UST. I leveled the shelf along width and depth, put the UST on and checked for level again. Made 95% of the difference.
> Per previous comments, try to line up the bottom left and right first. The T1 doesn't have front adjustment feet for some reason so I ended up putting a small cloth under the front middle "foot" to push the image up into the top corners.
> Even with this I couldn't get 100% perfect. The image turns up a bit on the bottom left and right, and the middle bottom dips down into my screen's frame. I don't notice it though once I actually start watching a show, and I was able to avoid using the keystone.
> 
> On a related focus note - I wasn't able to get the top-left in razor focus no matter how I adjusted the focus/screen/etc. Digital focus is all the way to the left.


That is why, I will get the stand/table custom made according to the projector setting. I already measured the height, I have 26.5 inches from the floor of the room to lower screen edge(display edge) and for 120" i need 16.1417 inches. So i will set the projector first by using multiple sittings i can find in my home to set up/adjust the exact length I need and then i will measure it and then I'll custom made the mini table like stand for the projector and the cover for the dust.


----------



## eezrider

Try to align the projector using the adjustable feet before resorting to keystone adjustments. Ideally, you'll want to not use keystone at all. The projector stands on a tripod base, with one fixed leg and two adjustable. These combined should allow you to tip the projector in any direction. The feet give quite fine-grained adjustment, so you'll need to be patient to work out what physical movement of the projector to combine with adjusting the feet. Like others, I've not managed to get 100% alignment. I will spend more time once I have a cabinet and the screen is moved to its final position. The lens suffers from slight pincushion distortion which causes a slight bulge out along each edge. This can be fixed with tiny adjustments with the keystone tool as a final step. 

Oddly, I went to adjust the focus this evening as I'd had problems getting the top right corner as sharp as the top left but found when I looked at it, I found that both top corners were similarly sharp. Must be the new firmware (joke ). More likely it's because I moved the screen base slightly a few days ago which may have twisted the screen a little in its 'up' position.


----------



## teros

Hey guys i've playing around with the projector atm has anyone had issues changing the source to any of the HDMI ports....tried ports 1-3 with different HDMI cables and no luck with either switching from a nvidia shield or to my PC says switching and awaiting source for 15 seconds then nothing....


----------



## zoomx2

teros said:


> Hey guys i've playing around with the projector atm has anyone had issues changing the source to any of the HDMI ports....tried ports 1-3 with different HDMI cables and no luck with either switching from a nvidia shield or to my PC says switching and awaiting source for 15 seconds then nothing....


I will check your HDMI cable. How old are they? I had similar case like yours and found out my cable is not supported even 2.0


----------



## teros

zoomx2 said:


> I will check your HDMI cable. How old are they? I had similar case like yours and found out my cable is not supported even 2.0


They are a few years old so maybe but even if not 2.0 supported they should at least show an image....shouldn't they?


----------



## shanedowley

lattiboy said:


> I used the HD Fury Arcana with the T1 and while I can understand it improving things somewhat, I think it is in no way necessary. The T1 now handles HDR and DV as well as any projector I’m aware of natively. Also, my HDMI issues were not resolved with the Arcana. I still had to toggle 2.0 and 2.1 every few times I boot up.
> 
> The Vertex 2 has a lot more features, but at $600 I think it is very much for the perfectionists out there as the new firmware has tackled almost all the big image issues.


True, devices like the Vertex2 aren’t necessary. And equally we all want to get the best performance out of our projectors. The Vertex2 has helped by reading and capturing the metadata passed between the projector and source devices to understand what’s going on in different scenarios. When the HDMI handshake issue occurs it’s possible to see the incorrect EDID data reported by the projector (namely identifying as 4K 30Hz Rec709 instead of 4K 60Hz 444 BT2020) and send this to the Xiaomi/Fengmi support teams as diagnostics and evidence of the bug.


----------



## teros

zoomx2 said:


> I will check your HDMI cable. How old are they? I had similar case like yours and found out my cable is not supported even 2.0



Your right I ended up trying a cable that came with my PS5 and it worked fine.


----------



## lattiboy

teros said:


> Your right I ended up trying a cable that came with my PS5 and it worked fine.


Just make sure you’re buying “Ultra High Speed” HDMI cables from a reputable source. I still like Monoprice for under 12 ft. You can usually get a 3 or 5 pack for like $30 shipped.


----------



## teros

lattiboy said:


> Just make sure you’re buying “Ultra High Speed” HDMI cables from a reputable source. I still like Monoprice for under 12 ft. You can usually get a 3 or 5 pack for like $30 shipped.


Yeah grabbing some BASEUS 8k ones to be sure I live in AUS and we get bent over local stores are $30 to $50 AUD a cable....The BASEUS ones are Chinese but should be good.


----------



## oryschak

I've had good luck with the Zeskit Maya cables.


----------



## m0j0

These are also excellent cables:








Amazon.com: KabelDirekt – 6ft – 8K/4K HDMI 2.1, Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable, Certified (HDMI to HDMI Cord, 48G, [email protected], Officially Licensed, Ethernet/eARC/HDCP, Compatible with PS5/Xbox/Switch, Silver/Black) : Electronics


Buy KabelDirekt – 6ft – 8K/4K HDMI 2.1, Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable, Certified (HDMI to HDMI Cord, 48G, [email protected], Officially Licensed, Ethernet/eARC/HDCP, Compatible with PS5/Xbox/Switch, Silver/Black): HDMI Cables - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com


----------



## m0j0

A few pictures of Bridgerton last night...


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> A few pictures of Bridgerton last night...
> 
> View attachment 3250799
> 
> 
> View attachment 3250800
> 
> 
> View attachment 3250801
> 
> 
> View attachment 3250802


I forgot to ask. How big is your screen? It certainly looks like you can go a lot larger in that room.


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> I forgot to ask. How big is your screen? It certainly looks like you can go a lot larger in that room.


The screen is 100 inches. The family sits back about 9 1/2 feet. I take pictures standing behind the couch, which is a good 12 or so feet, so that's probably why it looks small.


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> The screen is 100 inches. The family sits back about 9 1/2 feet. I take pictures standing behind the couch, which is a good 12 or so feet, so that's probably why it looks small.


Thanks. You could go 120" without any problem in that room. It looks like you have high ceilings - - at least 10 feet. 16 x 9 screen? How high is your console? (stand)


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> Thanks. You could go 120" without any problem in that room. It looks like you have high ceilings - - at least 10 feet.


Yep, I do have pretty high ceilings. However, in this room, it's primarily my kids watching, so really 100" is pretty much all that's needed. I have a 115" cinescope screen in my dedicated theater room where I do most of my serious movie watching.


----------



## rooterha

WuPro shipped my Vividstorm and T1 today, about 4 business days after order going through South Korea via DHL express. Will see how long it takes to arrive. 

They sent me pics of everything, it working and a US plug.


----------



## Ricoflashback

rooterha said:


> WuPro shipped my Vividstorm and T1 today, about 4 business days after order going through South Korea via DHL express. Will see how long it takes to arrive.
> 
> They sent me pics of everything, it working and a US plug.


This is from Wupro via Alibaba. Three year warranty? Android TV system? New international model?


----------



## rooterha

Ricoflashback said:


> This is from Wupro via Alibaba. Three year warranty? Android TV system? New international model?
> 
> View attachment 3250839


Not sure - my picture that was sent looks like the usual OS - maybe Android is the underlying OS?

My contact said
"T1 3 years warranty,if non-human quality problem,buyer afford both shipping and tax."

Not sure what 'non human quality' problem means but I assume it means if it arrives DOA or has a problem that isn't my fault during that period they will cover sending a replacement?


----------



## humax

m0j0 said:


> I have a 115" cinescope screen in my dedicated theater room where I do most of my serious movie watching.



What is your main projector? Do you like it better than the T1?


----------



## Ricoflashback

humax said:


> What is your main projector? Do you like it better than the T1?


Good question. Probably a JVC if I had to guess. Scope screen? Any processor like a Lumagen or madVR Envy Pro or Extreme?


----------



## m0j0

I have a Sony 695ES (calibrated by ChadB) connected to a Vertex2, using a Stewart Cima Neve screen and watching movies on Zidoo Z9X (ripped all my 4k discs to MKV's) and all blacked out room with black velvet on the walls and ceiling. That and full 7.x.4 surround sound and subs under seats (HoverEze).


----------



## humax

m0j0 said:


> I have a Sony 695ES (calibrated by ChadB) connected to a Vertex2, using a Stewart Cima Neve screen and watching movies on Zidoo Z9X (ripped all my 4k discs to MKV's) and all blacked out room with black velvet on the walls and ceiling. That and full 7.x.4 surround sound and subs under seats (HoverEze).



So, if you had to choose between the two, you would select the Sony?


----------



## m0j0

humax said:


> So, if you had to choose between the two, you would select the Sony?


Well, it does produce a very nice, filmic image and suits the blacked out HT setup, and has all kinds of contrast and shadow detail, etc. However, the T1 is pretty amazing in it's own right and totally blows me away in terms of brightness, color, etc. For me though, I don't really need to compare them but rather find the one that suits my purposes. The Sony suits my purposes in a dark theater with a widescreen type setup. The T1 suits my purposes in a multi purpose living room with ambient light and a full 16x9 screen size (as most of my kids shows are 16x9 format and they are the primary users of the TV in the living room). Still, seeing the T1 present a massive 130" image in my theater is appealing...


----------



## m0j0

double post deleted


----------



## wltam

Hey guys! I read in some posts that some of you are referring to a wireless speaker from Fengmi to pair it with. Can some of you DM me a link? I can’t seem to find it 😅


----------



## humax

wltam said:


> Hey guys! I read in some posts that some of you are referring to a wireless speaker from Fengmi to pair it with. Can some of you DM me a link? I can’t seem to find it 😅


[verified Supplier]fengmi Wireless 2.1 Audience Home Cinema Sounds Fengmi Wireless Subwoofer 2.1 Speaker Home Theater System - Buy Fengmi Subwoofer,Home Theater System,Fengmi Wireless Subwoofer 2.1 Product on Alibaba.com


----------



## rjyap

m0j0 said:


> Well, it does produce a very nice, filmic image and suits the blacked out HT setup, and has all kinds of contrast and shadow detail, etc. However, the T1 is pretty amazing in it's own right and totally blows me away in terms of brightness, color, etc. For me though, I don't really need to compare them but rather find the one that suits my purposes. The Sony suits my purposes in a dark theater with a widescreen type setup. The T1 suits my purposes in a multi purpose living room with ambient light and a full 16x9 screen size (as most of my kids shows are 16x9 format and they are the primary users of the TV in the living room). Still, seeing the T1 present a massive 130" image in my theater is appealing...


You should bring your T1 into your main theater to do a shootout. I would guess for low APL scene Sony would be great while brighter and colorful scene would be T1 advantage.


----------



## CabbageMan

humax said:


> [verified Supplier]fengmi Wireless 2.1 Audience Home Cinema Sounds Fengmi Wireless Subwoofer 2.1 Speaker Home Theater System - Buy Fengmi Subwoofer,Home Theater System,Fengmi Wireless Subwoofer 2.1 Product on Alibaba.com


Does anyone know if this is any good?


----------



## donw

CabbageMan said:


> Does anyone know if this is any good?


6.5" subwoofer and 120W can't really do much in the low subwoofer frequencies. No experience here, though.


----------



## Kris404

donw said:


> 6.5" subwoofer and 120W can't really do much in the low subwoofer frequencies. No experience here, though.


Input is through a USB transmitter so not even sure if there are onboarding screens for it on the projector.

Does FengOS detect the dongle and extend the speakers as surrounds or replace front channels?


----------



## m0j0

Just hooked up the new Dolby Vision compatible Roku Ultra and man, I am very impressed! With the Vertex2 set to 110 nits on the custom DV tab and brightness set to 50, contrast at 94/95 highlights are bright without being blown out and the picture is amazing! I set the 4:2:2 option in the advanced tab and turned on Dolby vision / always on HDR and all content, from dv to 1080p is looking fabulous! There was a night scene in Bridgerton where they are spinning fire and it was really popping! That’s some quality stuff right there I said right away, and the night scenes are showing excellent shadow detail! Colors are amazing and I even turned down saturation from 55 to 52!


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

Ricoflashback said:


> This is from Wupro via Alibaba. Three year warranty? Android TV system? New international model?
> 
> View attachment 3250839


I reached out to WuPro and was told that this is NOT the international version, nor is it using the Android OS. When pressed why the ad clearly states Android, I was told, "_It is Feng OS system, but customers will said it is Android OS, and it can do all the thing like Android OS._" He also mentioned that the International Version is not expected any time soon, "_International version should wait for a long time, just like VAVA Chorma said will in the market last year, but still doesn't have the new about it now._"


----------



## eezrider

m0j0 said:


> Just hooked up the new Dolby Vision compatible Roku Ultra and man, I am very impressed! With the Vertex2 set to 110 nits on the custom DV tab and brightness set to 50, contrast at 94/95 highlights are bright without being blown out and the picture is amazing! I set the 4:2:2 option in the advanced tab and turned on Dolby vision / always on HDR and all content, from dv to 1080p is looking fabulous! There was a night scene in Bridgerton where they are spinning fire and it was really popping! That’s some quality stuff right there I said right away, and the night scenes are showing excellent shadow detail! Colors are amazing and I even turned down saturation from 55 to 52!


Can you clarify what's going on here? Have you compared the Roku with DV with and without the Vertex? The 'normal' Vertex scenario is to force/enable DV playing with a projector that does not support DV. Given the T1 supports DV is it still worth faking it? I'd consider buying a Roku if the secret sauce is in its DV support, but a Roku and a Vertex is an expensive add-on.


----------



## eezrider

Scott Rosenberg said:


> I reached out to WuPro and was told that this is NOT the international version, nor is it using the Android OS. When pressed why the ad clearly states Android, I was told, "_It is Feng OS system, but customers will said it is Android OS, and it can do all the thing like Android OS._" He also mentioned that the International Version is not expected any time soon, "_International version should wait for a long time, just like VAVA Chorma said will in the market last year, but still doesn't have the new about it now._"


As I understand it, FengOS is a customized Android OS.


----------



## m0j0

eezrider said:


> Can you clarify what's going on here? Have you compared the Roku with DV with and without the Vertex? The 'normal' Vertex scenario is to force/enable DV playing with a projector that does not support DV. Given the T1 supports DV is it still worth faking it? I'd consider buying a Roku if the secret sauce is in its DV support, but a Roku and a Vertex is an expensive add-on.


The T1 does support Dolby Vision and the Roku as well, so yes, you could run both and leave out the Vertex2. For myself, I want the Vertex2 in place. Having tested both the ATV4k and Shield with and without the Vertex2 on the T1, I have no need to do the same test with the Roku as I'm pretty sure it will be the same result. The Vertex2 just gives a better tone mapping image to my eyes than the native DV, so that is what I'm sticking with. I know others are happy with what they are getting with the T1 alone, so you should definitely try that approach first, and if you're happy, then you can just go with that approach.


----------



## zaselim

guys, you can play mkv files through usb right? On the T1 i mean.


----------



## tovaxxx

I have successfully paired the T1 with the Harmony. The first time it also turned on and off in the action. Now it no longer turns on, only off. But is still paired. Why does it not receive the power command when it turns on? Does anyone have any ideas?


----------



## zaselim

tovaxxx said:


> I have successfully paired the T1 with the Harmony. The first time it also turned on and off in the action. Now it no longer turns on, only off. But is still paired. Why does it not receive the power command when it turns on? Does anyone have any ideas?


via bluetooth?


----------



## humax

Kris404 said:


> Does FengOS detect the dongle and extend the speakers as surrounds or replace front channels?


I believe they are meant to be used as surrounds and extend the projector's onboard system.




CabbageMan said:


> Does anyone know if this is any good?


Depends on your requirements. Obviously, these are meant to be used by people who are satisfied with the onboard sound system and just want to expand the surround effect. They seem to meet a minimum quality standard for the price and not just be worthless plastic junk. As someone said, the SW should be at least 8". They are cheap enough to give them a shot. However, if you expect big surround speaker performance out of these, you will most likely be disappointed. I am also thinking of getting them or otherwise buy a similarly priced hdmi 2.1 audio extractor and try to connect a 12" SW via rca.


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

eezrider said:


> As I understand it, FengOS is a customized Android OS.


Thanks, that seems to be the case. I just received the following follow up message from Wupro: _"FengOS is a customized Android OS. you can call say Android system is Feng OS system, you can do all things like it." _


----------



## humax

Scott Rosenberg said:


> I reached out to WuPro and was told that this is NOT the international version, nor is it using the Android OS. When pressed why the ad clearly states Android, I was told, "_It is Feng OS system, but customers will said it is Android OS, and it can do all the thing like Android OS._" He also mentioned that the International Version is not expected any time soon, "_International version should wait for a long time, just like VAVA Chorma said will in the market last year, but still doesn't have the new about it now._"



We know so far that the global android version is supposed to come out in April and will be more expensive than the Chinese one. Someone in Gregory's blog mentioned it will also be available in three different colors (I suppose black, white and ?). April is close enough. We will see, if it is true or not.


----------



## Grumi

In the comments in Gregory's blog a price of 3500$ was also mentioned...


----------



## abzorh

zaselim said:


> guys, you can play mkv files through usb right? On the T1 i mean.


Yes.


----------



## humax

Grumi said:


> In the comments in Gregory's blog a price of 3500$ was also mentioned...


You are right, I 've just read that. Let's just hope it will be heavily discounted right at the beginning just like the Chinese version was, otherwise they won't be selling many of these. I'd rather just get the existing model, than pay 1000$ more for minor improvements. At this price, the T1 is no longer VFM. I can buy the new 4K Darbee with that extra money and still have change left.


----------



## shanedowley

m0j0 said:


> The T1 does support Dolby Vision and the Roku as well, so yes, you could run both and leave out the Vertex2. For myself, I want the Vertex2 in place. Having tested both the ATV4k and Shield with and without the Vertex2 on the T1, I have no need to do the same test with the Roku as I'm pretty sure it will be the same result. The Vertex2 just gives a better tone mapping image to my eyes than the native DV, so that is what I'm sticking with. I know others are happy with what they are getting with the T1 alone, so you should definitely try that approach first, and if you're happy, then you can just go with that approach.


In the end it’s all a matter of personal taste! I’ve landed on the same set up as you with the Xiaomi C2 (in combo with AppleTv 4K and Vertex2). Using a slightly lower max lum setting w the C2 as the T1 is brighter.


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

Do any of you guys with hands on a T1 know if it’s in any way possible to route audio from the T1 to two audio devices? I.E. to a sound system via the eArc and then to a separate powered subwoofer via the 3.5mm analogue audio output or the optical output? Or will using the audio outputs mute the audio out on the eArc? 

Thinking of using the T1 with a Sony HT-A9 and would love to find a way to also get audio to a powered sub that is more capable than the Sony options. Is this possible?


----------



## m0j0

tovaxxx said:


> I have successfully paired the T1 with the Harmony. The first time it also turned on and off in the action. Now it no longer turns on, only off. But is still paired. Why does it not receive the power command when it turns on? Does anyone have any ideas?


Yeah, I experience the same. Not sure why either.


----------



## loco_motion

tovaxxx said:


> I have successfully paired the T1 with the Harmony. The first time it also turned on and off in the action. Now it no longer turns on, only off. But is still paired. Why does it not receive the power command when it turns on? Does anyone have any ideas?


I have found when the T1 is completely off (with the fans off) it cannot connect via bluetooth to my Harmony. In order to turn on my T1 with the Harmony remote, I have programmed all activities to turn on my nvidia shield which is set to trigger the T1 on via HDMI CEC. When the T1 is in standby mode (screen off with the fans running) the Harmony remote is still able to communicate with it and turn it back on.


----------



## Ricoflashback

zaselim said:


> guys, you can play mkv files through usb right? On the T1 i mean.


My suggestion is to never use a native projector or TV, for that matter, to play mkv files. The processing isn't there. Oddly enough, my older OPPO 103 Blu-ray Player does the best job of playing mkv files and handling any USB storage access.


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> The T1 does support Dolby Vision and the Roku as well, so yes, you could run both and leave out the Vertex2. For myself, I want the Vertex2 in place. Having tested both the ATV4k and Shield with and without the Vertex2 on the T1, I have no need to do the same test with the Roku as I'm pretty sure it will be the same result. The Vertex2 just gives a better tone mapping image to my eyes than the native DV, so that is what I'm sticking with. I know others are happy with what they are getting with the T1 alone, so you should definitely try that approach first, and if you're happy, then you can just go with that approach.


Ah common, m0j0. Keep the Vertex2 for your T1 and step up to the madVR Envy Pro for your theater room. So what if it's one year's worth of college education for your children? They might get scholarships. : > )


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Scott Rosenberg said:


> I reached out to WuPro and was told that this is NOT the international version, nor is it using the Android OS. When pressed why the ad clearly states Android, I was told, "_It is Feng OS system, but customers will said it is Android OS, and it can do all the thing like Android OS._" He also mentioned that the International Version is not expected any time soon, "_International version should wait for a long time, just like VAVA Chorma said will in the market last year, but still doesn't have the new about it now._"


It absolutely is Android, FengOS is the wrapper ontop of it.
No different than phones where say Samsung phones are using android but wrapped in there own OEM flavor.

"PURE" Android is Googles version, but many OEM's have there own stuff to customize it, and perhaps for the Projector you are looking to see Android TV?

The T1 can install .APK files and I run ADB (Android Debug Bridge) for automation on it.


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> My suggestion is to never use a native projector or TV, for that matter, to play mkv files. The processing isn't there. Oddly enough, my older OPPO 103 Blu-ray Player does the best job of playing mkv files and handling any USB storage access.


I've been really impressed with the Zidoo Z9X for playing back MKV files. It's not a streaming box, but man, it can do wonders with local MKV's!


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> Ah common, m0j0. Keep the Vertex2 for your T1 and step up to the madVR Envy Pro for your theater room. So what if it's one year's worth of college education for your children? They might get scholarships. : > )


Yeah, they really priced themselves out of my market segment. Too bad as I was really interested before they went to market.


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> Yeah, they really priced themselves out of my market segment. Too bad as I was really interested before they went to market.


If they could price it around $5K - - that would make a huge difference. I don't know if the Lumagen products are in that price range but the madVR Envy Pro and Extreme are incredible processors. You could have a "scope screen" with a UST like the Fengmi T1. From everything I've read, it does a tremendous job with subtitles (fitting them on your screen) to "on the fly" adjustments, no matter what the aspect ratio is. Non-linear stretch to make 16:9 content look good on a scope screen. And, world class upscaling and DTM handling. Kind of a mismatch, price wise, with projectors like the Fengmi T1 but I bet the results would be fantastic.


----------



## spocky12

humax said:


> We know so far that the global android version is supposed to come out in April and will be more expensive than the Chinese one. Someone in Gregory's blog mentioned it will also be available in three different colors (I suppose black, white and ?). April is close enough. We will see, if it is true or not.


Fwiw, no new projector has been listed on the FCCid.io web site, either for Fengmi or Formovie, which are the brands used for previous international projectors. (Yes, I've checked Xiaomi too).

The certified Android tv list, which has listed the international 4k model before it was being sold, is also silent on that matter. 

Given the fact that previous projectors were listed there months before they were officially released, I wouldn't hold my breath on any new device coming in a near future.

Regarding the rumors, my bet is that the international T1 will probably be announced in April at best and it won't be sold before September. Of course that's only my interpretation. They might as well have registered a new brand for international models and the certified Android tv maintainers might have missed this upcoming device.


----------



## Ricoflashback

spocky12 said:


> Fwiw, no new projector has been listed on the FCCid.io web site, either for Fengmi or Formovie, which are the brands used for previous international projectors. (Yes, I've checked Xiaomi too).
> 
> The certified Android tv list, which has listed the international 4k model before it was being sold, is also silent on that matter.
> 
> Given the fact that previous projectors were listed there months before they were officially released, I wouldn't hold my breath on any new device coming in a near future.
> 
> Regarding the rumors, my bet is that the international T1 will probably be announced in April at best and it won't be sold before September. Of course that's only my interpretation. They might as well have registered a new brand for international models and the certified Android tv maintainers might have missed this upcoming device.


Much thanks, Spocky12 - - as always. I'll be ready to buy in a couple months and won't be disappointed, at all, to get the current version of the Fengmi T1. I use the Nvidia Shield Pro so I have little interest in the native apps. Just give me that great picture with superb colors and black levels without the gas, mist, fog and haze of other DLP projectors!


----------



## mirzank

If one can install Apk’s then why not add a custom home screen / launcher ? I know the atv’s recently disabled the ability for customer launches but until it was possible it worked perfectly for me. Why not use the same on fengos? Or is it disabled the same way Amazon disabled it on atv ?



ViciousXUSMC said:


> It absolutely is Android, FengOS is the wrapper ontop of it.
> No different than phones where say Samsung phones are using android but wrapped in there own OEM flavor.
> 
> "PURE" Android is Googles version, but many OEM's have there own stuff to customize it, and perhaps for the Projector you are looking to see Android TV?
> 
> The T1 can install .APK files and I run ADB (Android Debug Bridge) for automation on it.


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

ViciousXUSMC said:


> It absolutely is Android, FengOS is the wrapper ontop of it.
> No different than phones where say Samsung phones are using android but wrapped in there own OEM flavor.
> 
> "PURE" Android is Googles version, but many OEM's have there own stuff to customize it, and perhaps for the Projector you are looking to see Android TV?
> 
> The T1 can install .APK files and I run ADB (Android Debug Bridge) for automation on it.


thanks for the clarification.


----------



## mirzank

Has anybody installed one of those automated telescoping shelves for ust’s? I think wupro sells them. A few questions:

Are they worth the money (I.e maybe one can create their own manual pullout shelf for way way cheaper and probably nicer looking)
can you adjust the distance it telescopes or is it binary fully closed or open?
does it require drilling into the wall, or also into the shelf top it’s placed on? I have a built in wall bench that I will place my projector on, and the bench has a marble top. The wall it’s placed against is a typical false / plaster wall. I don’t want to drill into the marble Ofcourse but may be okay drilling into the wall.


----------



## gostocks

*Hi all*

Been lurking in this part of the forum and finally decided to buy T1 today. It’s my 1st UST and this coming from someone who has Lg C9 and 6CT(curved 3D) and I have to I say wow what have I been missing. And I’m not even using ALR screen!

I’m using CCwGTV for Netflix. Those who have the alpha firmware can you confirm Atmos works with built in speakers? Is it specifically CC or other streamer box has no issues?

TIA and enjoy your T1


----------



## CabbageMan

I haven't had any HDMI handshake issues since the 2nd update the other day. Has everyone else who got the most recent update still been having that issue? My AppleTV and my PS4 have both been picking up 4K60


----------



## shanedowley

mirzank said:


> If one can install Apk’s then why not add a custom home screen / launcher ? I know the atv’s recently disabled the ability for customer launches but until it was possible it worked perfectly for me. Why not use the same on fengos? Or is it disabled the same way Amazon disabled it on atv ?


@spocky12 - this one’s yours mate. What’s the latest on ProjecTivy Launcher?


----------



## CabbageMan

gostocks said:


> *Hi all*
> 
> Been lurking in this part of the forum and finally decided to buy T1 today. It’s my 1st UST and this coming from someone who has Lg C9 and 6CT(curved 3D) and I have to I say wow what have I been missing. And I’m not even using ALR screen!
> 
> I’m using CCwGTV for Netflix. Those who have the alpha firmware can you confirm Atmos works with built in speakers? Is it specifically CC or other streamer box has no issues?
> 
> TIA and enjoy your T1


I used a CCwGTV when I first got my T1 and I had the same problem. I switched to an AppleTV and have had no issues.


----------



## m0j0

CabbageMan said:


> I haven't had any HDMI handshake issues since the 2nd update the other day. Has everyone else who got the most recent update still been having that issue? My AppleTV and my PS4 have both been picking up 4K60


I just setup the Roku Ultra and got it once or twice already where it comes in at 1080p and I have to flip it over to 2.0 then back to 2.1 to get it back to normal, and I'm on the latest alpha firmware.


----------



## CabbageMan

m0j0 said:


> I just setup the Roku Ultra and got it once or twice already where it comes in at 1080p and I have to flip it over to 2.0 then back to 2.1 to get it back to normal, and I'm on the latest alpha firmware.


Hmmm strange maybe I've just gotten lucky my last few boot ups.


----------



## m0j0

CabbageMan said:


> Hmmm strange maybe I've just gotten lucky my last few boot ups.


I saw it less when I was using the ATV4K I believe.


----------



## zaselim

abzorh said:


> Yes.


Thanks.


----------



## zaselim

Ricoflashback said:


> My suggestion is to never use a native projector or TV, for that matter, to play mkv files. The processing isn't there. Oddly enough, my older OPPO 103 Blu-ray Player does the best job of playing mkv files and handling any USB storage access.


Right, thanks for the info.


----------



## spocky12

shanedowley said:


> @spocky12 - this one’s yours mate. What’s the latest on ProjecTivy Launcher?


Projectivy Launcher is on the launch pad , awaiting the release of firmware 2.0. Only then will the countdown begin.
In the meantime, I'm polishing its engine cogs.
It may not send you to Mars, but it'll definitely take off in March


----------



## Directtv999

I see black scenes are flickering in Dune movie is it PJ issue?
Here is video 








March 10, 2022







youtube.com




@m0j0


----------



## eezrider

m0j0 said:


> I just setup the Roku Ultra and got it once or twice already where it comes in at 1080p and I have to flip it over to 2.0 then back to 2.1 to get it back to normal, and I'm on the latest alpha firmware.


Still having the problem with my Xbox


----------



## m0j0

Directtv999 said:


> I see black scenes are flickering in Dune movie is it PJ issue?
> Here is video
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> March 10, 2022
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> youtube.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @m0j0


That might be dynamic contrast or something like that. Are you using a built in mode or custom?


----------



## Directtv999

m0j0 said:


> That might be dynamic contrast or something like that. Are you using a built in mode or custom?


default office mode on PJ and [email protected] on ATV


----------



## donw

Well, my projector came in this afternoon. Thought I'd set it up on the wall until I get my screen in. Well, no matter how I adjust the legs, I cannot get the top part of the image to focus, and the bottom doesn't even look too focused. I tried adjusting focus, but it hardly did anything. This is all the way to the left, but going right doesn't adjust much either. Any suggestions?


----------



## Directtv999

donw said:


> Well, my projector came in this afternoon. Thought I'd set it up on the wall until I get my screen in. Well, no matter how I adjust the legs, I cannot get the top part of the image to focus, and the bottom doesn't even look too focused. I tried adjusting focus, but it hardly did anything. This is all the way to the left, but going right doesn't adjust much either. Any suggestions?
> View attachment 3251517
> 
> 
> View attachment 3251518


how it is if smaller image?


----------



## donw

Directtv999 said:


> how it is if smaller image?


No better. This is only an 84" wide setting. I had it at 105" wide and reduced it. I guess I could try even smaller.


----------



## donw

Here is a 72" wide screen:


----------



## Brajesh

Aw man, I feel for you. Afraid it may be a hardware/QC issue w/your unit. My unit, which @m0j0 now has, had slight focus issues (top left mostly, a bit on top right as well), but only when at 142-150" (my screen is 144").

Have you updated the firmware? And, if that doesn't do it, tried a factory reset?


----------



## donw

Brajesh said:


> Aw man, I feel for you. Afraid it may be a hardware/QC issue w/your unit. My unit, which @m0j0 now has, had slight focus issues (top left mostly, a bit on top right as well), but only when at 142-150" (my screen is 144").
> 
> Have you updated the firmware? And, if that doesn't do it, tried a factory reset?


I thought the unit itself updates and you couldn't force one? How do you force one. And how do you do a factory reset?


----------



## m0j0

Directtv999 said:


> default office mode on PJ and [email protected] on ATV


Office mode is the light level. What is the other setting? Try setting it to custom and ensuring dynamic contrast is turned off.


----------



## m0j0

donw said:


> Here is a 72" wide screen:
> View attachment 3251522


Try turning the wheels to adjust the front feet and see if it has any impact on the focus.


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> Try turning the wheels to adjust the front feet and see if it has any impact on the focus.


I did that...and no help.
The version is 1.4.6.1938 and it says it is the latest.


----------



## m0j0

donw said:


> I did that...and no help.
> The version is 1.4.6.1938 and it says it is the latest.


Is the lens clean?

You might also just try projecting on another wall to be sure it's not something with the surface you're projecting onto or the surface you're projector is sitting on top of.


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> Is the lens clean?
> 
> You might also just try projecting on another wall to be sure it's not something with the surface you're projecting onto or the surface you're projector is sitting on top of.


I tried wiping with the included cloth, but no better.
I found how to do a factory reset; now I have all Chinese! How do I get back English?


----------



## donw

Also, after the reset, Home button doesn't work any more.


----------



## Directtv999

m0j0 said:


> Office mode is the light level. What is the other setting? Try setting it to custom and ensuring dynamic contrast is turned off.


DV dark mode resolved it previously its bright mode.


----------



## zoomx2

donw said:


> Well, my projector came in this afternoon. Thought I'd set it up on the wall until I get my screen in. Well, no matter how I adjust the legs, I cannot get the top part of the image to focus, and the bottom doesn't even look too focused. I tried adjusting focus, but it hardly did anything. This is all the way to the left, but going right doesn't adjust much either. Any suggestions?
> View attachment 3251517
> 
> 
> View attachment 3251518


I will check the lens to see anything covers it. The image is not even straight.


----------



## zoomx2

donw said:


> I tried wiping with the included cloth, but no better.
> I found how to do a factory reset; now I have all Chinese! How do I get back English?


System/ the second at the bottom is language


----------



## donw

zoomx2 said:


> System/ the second at the bottom is language


The home button doesn't even work, now. I can't get to system!


----------



## Brajesh

Unplug projector, let it be for at least 5 mins, and try again.


----------



## donw

Brajesh said:


> Unplug projector, let it be for at least 5 mins, and try again.


Didn't work. Same thing. It shows a picture of the remote like it wants me to click the middle button. I click it, and we go to the focus screen. Home button doesn't work.


----------



## zoomx2

donw said:


> Didn't work. Same thing. It shows a picture of the remote like it wants me to click the middle button. I click it, and we go to the focus screen. Home button doesn't work.


You need to pair the remote first. Walk close to the projector for pairing.


----------



## donw

I did that. It had me click the two outside buttons. The only buttons that work on the remote, now are the power button, the arrow buttons, and the center button.


----------



## donw

How do you contact the manufacturer? I assume the Alibaba seller is going to be useless.


----------



## m0j0

donw said:


> I did that. It had me click the two outside buttons. The only buttons that work on the remote, now are the power button, the arrow buttons, and the center button.


I think you’re supposed to press and hold the two outer buttons to pair the remote. You may need to power off and wait five mins and try again. When you go to pair, get the remote close to the front right I believe.


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> I think you’re supposed to press and hold the two outer buttons to pair the remote. You may need to power off and wait five mins and try again. When you go to pair, get the remote close to the front right I believe.


That's what I did. It did pair with the projector. But only some keys work--not the home key.


----------



## Directtv999

donw said:


> How do you contact the manufacturer? I assume the Alibaba seller is going to be useless.


Alibaba gives 30 days protection try contact seller if he doesn't respond claim alibaba or else CC.


----------



## donw

Directtv999 said:


> Alibaba gives 30 days protection try contact seller if he doesn't respond claim alibaba or else CC.


What is "CC"?


----------



## m0j0

donw said:


> What is "CC"?


He means your credit card company I believe.


----------



## Directtv999

donw said:


> What is "CC"?


Credit Card


----------



## m0j0

donw said:


> How do you contact the manufacturer? I assume the Alibaba seller is going to be useless.


Try [email protected]


----------



## donw

Got it.


----------



## rjyap

donw said:


> Here is a 72" wide screen:
> View attachment 3251522


I see you are projecting on a wall which might not be flat. Anyway, try to tilt up/down and see if you get a more uniform focus from top to bottom.


----------



## zoomx2

donw said:


> Got it.


They usually test the unit first before ship it out.


----------



## donw

zoomx2 said:


> They usually test the unit first before ship it out.


Their testing must be sub par in this instance.


----------



## rjyap

Brajesh said:


> Aw man, I feel for you. Afraid it may be a hardware/QC issue w/your unit. My unit, which @m0j0 now has, had slight focus issues (top left mostly, a bit on top right as well), but only when at 142-150" (my screen is 144").
> 
> Have you updated the firmware? And, if that doesn't do it, tried a factory reset?


I also encounter this slight out of focus on the top when going more than 120". Been mention by another reviewer from China. Anyway, no big deal when watching movie, only when you are reading small text from PC. It's readable just you can see it's slightly defocus.


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> Try [email protected]


I just sent them an email, and I'm trying to IM Chris Chen on Alibaba.


----------



## donw

rjyap said:


> I also encounter this slight out of focus on the top when going more than 120". Been mention by another reviewer from China. Anyway, no big deal when watching movie, only when you are reading small text from PC. It's readable just you can see it's slightly defocus.


Mine is VERY out of focus, and it happens with a very small screen. Now the projector is for all intents, "bricked".


----------



## Directtv999

donw said:


> I just sent them an email, and I'm trying to IM Chris Chen on Alibaba.


Chris responds quickly hope she will resolve it.


----------



## Directtv999

donw said:


> I just sent them an email, and I'm trying to IM Chris Chen on Alibaba.


When did you purchased? I also bought from Chris and received on Tue I guess we both got on same time.


----------



## mirzank

mirzank said:


> Has anybody installed one of those automated telescoping shelves for ust’s? I think wupro sells them. A few questions:
> 
> Are they worth the money (I.e maybe one can create their own manual pullout shelf for way way cheaper and probably nicer looking)
> can you adjust the distance it telescopes or is it binary fully closed or open?
> does it require drilling into the wall, or also into the shelf top it’s placed on? I have a built in wall bench that I will place my projector on, and the bench has a marble top. The wall it’s placed against is a typical false / plaster wall. I don’t want to drill into the marble Ofcourse but may be okay drilling into the wall.


anybody have any input on this?


----------



## donw

Directtv999 said:


> When did you purchased? I also bought from Chris and received on Tue I guess we both got on same time.


About a week and a half ago.


----------



## ted_b

Mine shipped from Chris two days ago. I’m not ready yet though so won’t have feedback til Vividstorm screen gets delivered and put up. 

Good luck with return/repair. We are all rooting for you.


----------



## donw

ted_b said:


> Mine shipped from Chris two days ago. I’m not ready yet though so won’t have feedback til Vividstorm screen gets delivered and put up.
> 
> Good luck with return/repair. We are all rooting for you.


Thanks!


----------



## abaintor

spocky12 said:


> Projectivy Launcher is on the launch pad , awaiting the release of firmware 2.0. Only then will the countdown begin.
> In the meantime, I'm polishing its engine cogs.
> It may not send you to Mars, but it'll definitely take off in March


Great news !
Did you manage to unlock picture settings (memc, brightness…) while in dolby vision mode ? I guess you will have to root the device anyway ?
Thanks


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> Is the lens clean?
> 
> You might also just try projecting on another wall to be sure it's not something with the surface you're projecting onto or the surface you're projector is sitting on top of.


I tried another wall and another "stand", but no difference.
I spent several hours tonight taking and sending videos to "Chris Chen" on Alibaba to convince her that something is really wrong. Videos of me resetting to factory and NOT adjusting the focus. Then a video of me adjusting focus by repetitively clicking instead of holding down the arrow buttons. She was in contact with a tech at the factory, and he recommended this. If I put my ear to the projector, I can actually hear the motor, and it does move while holding down the remote arrow keys. You don't have to repetitively click!


----------



## humax

rjyap said:


> I also encounter this slight out of focus on the top when going more than 120".



It seems like the optimal screen diagonal for USTs with the 0.47" DMD is just that. Up to 120". Yes, they tell you you can go to 150" or bigger, but focus will suffer and good luck trying to get a 150" ALR perfectly aligned and tensioned. I suppose improved, high precision, lower tolerance and more expensive optics have also to be used in order to properly project at those inches. If you want minimal focus issues with this type of projection, your best bet is up to 120" and a Vividstorm-type self-tensioning screen. This should keep things clean, bright and in focus.


----------



## spocky12

donw said:


> I tried another wall and another "stand", but no difference.
> I spent several hours tonight taking and sending videos to "Chris Chen" on Alibaba to convince her that something is really wrong. Videos of me resetting to factory and NOT adjusting the focus. Then a video of me adjusting focus by repetitively clicking instead of holding down the arrow buttons. She was in contact with a tech at the factory, and he recommended this. If I put my ear to the projector, I can actually hear the motor, and it does move while holding down the remote arrow keys. You don't have to repetitively click!


I confirm you can hold down the buttons to setup the focus.
Concerning the home button as well as "all apps" button (the one with the formovie logo), they are disabled by software until you fully setup the projector and the main launcher starts.


----------



## Deanodxb

donw said:


> Mine is VERY out of focus, and it happens with a very small screen. Now the projector is for all intents, "bricked".


Don't panic. I had similar issues with mine at first.

check the wall. Is the surface flat and level (each way)?
check the T1. Screw feet in all the way and check the unit is sitting level on the shelf
check the T1 again. Make sure it is sitting perpendicular to the wall. Most of the issues I had with keystone adjust and focus was that one corner of the back of the T1 was closer to the wall that the other. Crazy, right? But really what you are doing is no more than what you would do with a long throw PJ. Its just harder with a UST as the unit is so close to the display that a minor change makes a big difference.
reset the keystone, then if you have one, use a laser line level or similar to get the edges of the projected image as level as possible (both axis)
go back and try and refocus again


----------



## humax

spocky12 said:


> Fwiw, no new projector has been listed on the FCCid.io web site, either for Fengmi or Formovie, which are the brands used for previous international projectors. (Yes, I've checked Xiaomi too).
> 
> The certified Android tv list, which has listed the international 4k model before it was being sold, is also silent on that matter.
> 
> Given the fact that previous projectors were listed there months before they were officially released, I wouldn't hold my breath on any new device coming in a near future.
> 
> Regarding the rumors, my bet is that the international T1 will probably be announced in April at best and it won't be sold before September. Of course that's only my interpretation. They might as well have registered a new brand for international models and the certified Android tv maintainers might have missed this upcoming device.



Further info on the international version from Gregory's blog by Brazilian user Luiz. If I am not mistaken he is the guy with the following YouTube channel, who interviewed the Fengmi manager couple of months back: Meu Tech Mundo - YouTube 

"UPDATE THE INFORMATION I HAVE:

It seems that in addition to the traditional color we will also have White, Yellow, Blue and Red (To integrate with the decoration)
It will be the first laser TV with ANDROID 11.
My price guess for the first 3 months is $2890
Formovie is ambitious!
I have here a fixed XY pet crystal 100" alr (Marvelous), a Vividstorm 100" Alr (Good screen), a Screen Pro (Super thin frame but bad fabric) and a Fury (Brazillian ALR screen – Better than Screen Pro)"


----------



## Brajesh

That sounds a lot better than the $3500 info I had gotten.


----------



## wltam

humax said:


> Further info on the international version from Gregory's blog by Brazilian user Luiz. If I am not mistaken he is the guy with the following YouTube channel, who interviewed the Fengmi manager couple of months back: Meu Tech Mundo - YouTube
> 
> "UPDATE THE INFORMATION I HAVE:
> 
> It seems that in addition to the traditional color we will also have White, Yellow, Blue and Red (To integrate with the decoration)
> It will be the first laser TV with ANDROID 11.
> My price guess for the first 3 months is $2890
> Formovie is ambitious!
> I have here a fixed XY pet crystal 100" alr (Marvelous), a Vividstorm 100" Alr (Good screen), a Screen Pro (Super thin frame but bad fabric) and a Fury (Brazillian ALR screen – Better than Screen Pro)"


What do you mean with the traditional Color? An additional laser so 4 instead of 3?


----------



## ted_b

wltam said:


> What do you mean with the traditional Color? An additional laser so 4 instead of 3?


He's referring to the unit's case color, traditional being the dark aluminum gray.


----------



## Titi_78

Directtv999 said:


> I see black scenes are flickering in Dune movie is it PJ issue?
> Here is video
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> March 10, 2022
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> youtube.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @m0j0


Not for me, from original Bluray with Sony x700 HDR or DV


Envoyé de mon iPad en utilisant Tapatalk


----------



## Titi_78

donw said:


> Mine is VERY out of focus, and it happens with a very small screen. Now the projector is for all intents, "bricked".


80 or 90 is the minimum size


Envoyé de mon iPad en utilisant Tapatalk


----------



## donw

Deanodxb said:


> Don't panic. I had similar issues with mine at first.
> 
> check the wall. Is the surface flat and level (each way)?
> check the T1. Screw feet in all the way and check the unit is sitting level on the shelf
> check the T1 again. Make sure it is sitting perpendicular to the wall. Most of the issues I had with keystone adjust and focus was that one corner of the back of the T1 was closer to the wall that the other. Crazy, right? But really what you are doing is no more than what you would do with a long throw PJ. Its just harder with a UST as the unit is so close to the display that a minor change makes a big difference.
> reset the keystone, then if you have one, use a laser line level or similar to get the edges of the projected image as level as possible (both axis)
> go back and try and refocus again


There is definitely something wrong with mine. I can move the projector all around--feet up/down, left/right in/out, and the top never gets near focus. If you look at my photos, there is a green border along the whole top.


----------



## Ricoflashback

donw said:


> There is definitely something wrong with mine. I can move the projector all around--feet up/down, left/right in/out, and the top never gets near focus. If you look at my photos, there is a green border along the whole top.


Sorry to hear about your issues with the PJ. Please let us know what the resolution is. I'm particularly interested in any cost you have to incur to send the projector back. I haven't read about other problems like yours outside of Brian's Fengmi T1 (projectorscreen.com) that came in DOA. I guess this is one of the main concerns with purchasing from a Chinese vendor. I believe you went through Alibaba. My guess is that they all handle the support the same way.


----------



## donw

Ricoflashback said:


> Sorry to hear about your issues with the PJ. Please let us know what the resolution is. I'm particularly interested in any cost you have to incur to send the projector back. I haven't read about other problems like yours outside of Brian's Fengmi T1 (projectorscreen.com) that came in DOA. I guess this is one of the main concerns with purchasing from a Chinese vendor. I believe you went through Alibaba. My guess is that they all handle the support the same way.


I will keep everyone posted. Last night, while IM'ing, they asked If I could ship it to their state-side address. I asked if they could send me a UPS shipping label like Amazon does. She said she emailed them here in the States to see if they could. Waiting.


----------



## m0j0

Took this picture last night of a youtube nature video while I was lion around...


----------



## Directtv999

I observed feet are not properly aligned when rolled them down so need a paper to balance properly.
But the picture is amazing am still on old firmware.


----------



## shanedowley

m0j0 said:


> Took this picture last night of a youtube nature video while I was lion around...
> 
> View attachment 3251733


Nice. From Roku Ultra? LLDV or DV?


----------



## donw

spocky12 said:


> I confirm you can hold down the buttons to setup the focus.
> Concerning the home button as well as "all apps" button (the one with the formovie logo), they are disabled by software until you fully setup the projector and the main launcher starts.


Yes, I got the buttons back working by walking through the setup. Needed a little help from Chris, as I don't read Chinese


----------



## m0j0

shanedowley said:


> Nice. From Roku Ultra? LLDV or DV?


Yes, this is with the Roku Ultra and Vertex2 LLDV setup.


----------



## ProjectionHead

ProjectionHead said:


> Hey y'all, it looks like Fengmi/Formovie is a bit more receptive to a USA sales channel and I received some contracts from them this morning in that regard.
> 
> I'd love to get some feedback from some of you T1 owners regarding your experience with the units, price paid and from where, what "premium" you'd pay for an android based unit vs ordering from China with FengOS as well as USA support, etc before I decide if/how I want to proceed with them.
> 
> Have to do it outside of this thread per AVS Rules; please DM if interested in chatting. Much appreciated!


So, while we _may_ not have a T1 at the UST showcase, it looks like I will be receiving a "Theater" (international version) form Formovie/Fengmi next month and will likely be carrying it here in the USA.

I appreciate everyone who took the time to reply to me and share their feedback and I will keep y'all up to date with news and info when this becomes domestically available and supported in the USA.


----------



## Brajesh

Can you talk about pricing yet or is this yet to be nailed down?


----------



## ted_b

Assuming updated T1 firmware and owning a yet-to-be-unboxed ATV4K (with Netflix, Prime, Apple TV and Disney+ subscriptions that we've been using on my family room firestick 4k or native app on my fam room LG OLED so far) is there a reason to get another streamer for the T1? I need the ATV4K to do Apple Music Atmos streaming anyway. I realize the Roku Ultra can do LLDV but can't ATV4K w/ T1 latest firmware accomplish the similar thing?

On a separate note, I got DHL texts today telling me the T1 is due here Wednesday and the Vividstorm screen is due here the following Monday (21st).


----------



## m0j0

ted_b said:


> Assuming updated T1 firmware and owning a yet-to-be-unboxed ATV4K (with Netflix, Prime, Apple TV and Disney+ subscriptions that we've been using on my family room firestick 4k or native app on my fam room LG OLED so far) is there a reason to get another streamer for the T1? I need the ATV4K to do Apple Music Atmos streaming anyway. I realize the Roku Ultra can do LLDV but can't ATV4K w/ T1 latest firmware accomplish the similar thing?
> 
> On a separate note, I got DHL texts today telling me the T1 is due here Wednesday and the Vividstorm screen is due here the following Monday (21st).


When we talk about LLDV, we typically are referring to use with an HDFury type device like the Vertex2 along with a player that supports DV. If you go with the player only, you will get Native tv led DV. But yes, the ATV4K can do always on DV and can do player led LLDV to the T1 via the Vertex2 just the same as the Roku. The difference I have seen though is that contrast controls can be turned up more on the Roku than the ATV4K without blowing out white highlights, resulting in a bit more brightness/pop. Still, I really enjoyed the picture on the ATV4K, especially at night when brightness maybe not as much of a concern.


----------



## donw

humax said:


> Further info on the international version from Gregory's blog by Brazilian user Luiz. If I am not mistaken he is the guy with the following YouTube channel, who interviewed the Fengmi manager couple of months back: Meu Tech Mundo - YouTube
> 
> "UPDATE THE INFORMATION I HAVE:
> 
> It seems that in addition to the traditional color we will also have White, Yellow, Blue and Red (To integrate with the decoration)
> It will be the first laser TV with ANDROID 11.
> My price guess for the first 3 months is $2890
> Formovie is ambitious!
> I have here a fixed XY pet crystal 100" alr (Marvelous), a Vividstorm 100" Alr (Good screen), a Screen Pro (Super thin frame but bad fabric) and a Fury (Brazillian ALR screen – Better than Screen Pro)"


Which ScreenPro do you have? Is it one of their UST type?


----------



## ted_b

m0j0 said:


> When we talk about LLDV, we typically are referring to use with an HDFury type device like the Vertex2 along with a player that supports DV. If you go with the player only, you will get Native tv led DV. But yes, the ATV4K can do always on DV and can do player led LLDV to the T1 via the Vertex2 just the same as the Roku. The difference I have seen though is that contrast controls can be turned up more on the Roku than the ATV4K without blowing out white highlights, resulting in a bit more brightness/pop. Still, I really enjoyed the picture on the ATV4K, especially at night when brightness maybe not as much of a concern.


Is it a different decision when no HDFury is in the path?


----------



## m0j0

ted_b said:


> Is it a different decision when no HDFury is in the path?


That's a good question. I think you probably can't go wrong with any of the top 3 in that case, they are all really good on the T1 from what I've seen.


----------



## humax

donw said:


> Which ScreenPro do you have? Is it one of their UST type?


These are not my words. I have just quoted the whole post by the Brazilian Luis guy regarding the global version and I didn't bother to clip his views on screens. I apologize for the confusion.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Brajesh said:


> Can you talk about pricing yet or is this yet to be nailed down?


I am not sure if I can disclose that quite. Pricing will be regulated via MAP however.


----------



## humax

ProjectionHead said:


> So, while we _may_ not have a T1 at the UST showcase, it looks like I will be receiving a "Theater" (international version) form Formovie/Fengmi next month and will likely be carrying it here in the USA.



Would you happen to know, whether there will be 3D support in the android international version of the T1 like the Fengmi manager suggested in an interview a couple of months back? There is no 3D support in FengOS at the moment, but android does not seem to share this limitation.


----------



## tovaxxx

donw said:


> Which ScreenPro do you have? Is it one of their UST type?


I absolutely cannot recommend the screen from ScreenPro. I ordered it first and it was not even half as good as the Vividstorm.


----------



## abaintor

ted_b said:


> Is it a different decision when no HDFury is in the path?


Hmmm… when you use for ex nvidia shield to stream dolby vision content it is LLDV (low latency dolby vision) wether you use hdfury or direct connect to the projector which means that dolby vision is decoded by the player. 
Native dolby vision which is indeed display led is no longer used unless you have an old uhd Blu-ray player. Because of the latency. 

So where is the benefit of hdfury ?
It lets you take the LLDV stream from the player and tunes it on the fly while setting the min and max nits value based on your projector capacity. And sometimes better than your projector handles it (see the current firmware with dark scenes). 
And then hdfury will advertise the dolby vision stream as classic hdr although it is a real dolby vision stream. This last trick lets you play dv on non dv projectors but it also unlocks the T1 picture settings in dv mode. And of course the min/max nits tuning better than native dv


----------



## ProjectionHead

humax said:


> Would you happen to know, whether there will be 3D support in the android international version of the T1 like the Fengmi manager suggested in an interview a couple of months back? There is no 3D support in FengOS at the moment, but android does not seem to share this limitation.


I will see if I can get that info and share it asap.


----------



## humax

ProjectionHead said:


> I will see if I can get that info and share it asap.


Thank you for your effort! Would you also be kind enough to point out to them that a full CMS is basically a necessity nowadays for a home theater projector, if they want to have a serious presence in the US and international markets?


----------



## zoomx2

donw said:


> Yes, I got the buttons back working by walking through the setup. Needed a little help from Chris, as I don't read Chinese


You sure no sticker on the lens ? Keystone works or not?


----------



## donw

tovaxxx said:


> I absolutely cannot recommend the screen from ScreenPro. I ordered it first and it was not even half as good as the Vividstorm.


Yikes, I have a roll-down that's already in shipping! What was bad about it?


----------



## donw

zoomx2 said:


> You sure no sticker on the lens ? Keystone works or not?


Nothing stuck on the lens. Keystone works, but it does nothing for focusing the top half of the screen.


----------



## tovaxxx

donw said:


> Yikes, I have a roll-down that's already in shipping! What was bad about it?


She had spotlight in the picture. I think due to the gain of 0.85. Also the swallowing of light from above did not work as well as with the Vividstorm. When you look at the screen from above on the Vividstorm, it appears almost black. This was not the case with the ScreenPro. It was merely gray. The flashlight test confirmed that.


----------



## donw

tovaxxx said:


> She had spotlight in the picture. I think due to the gain of 0.85. Also the swallowing of light from above did not work as well as with the Vividstorm. When you look at the screen from above on the Vividstorm, it appears almost black. This was not the case with the ScreenPro. It was merely gray. The flashlight test confirmed that.


Thanks for that. I will be using this primarily at night with full light control, so the ALR function isn't that important to me. I suppose I could turn down the intensity if there is hot spot.


----------



## donw

donw said:


> Thanks for that. I will be using this primarily at night with full light control, so the ALR function isn't that important to me. I suppose I could turn down the intensity if there is hot spot.


I saved over $1000 with the ScreePro vs.VividStorm.


----------



## tovaxxx

The Vividstorm cost me the same as the ScreenPro. You just have to know where to buy.


----------



## Brajesh

ProjectionHead said:


> I will see if I can get that info and share it asap.


Addition of 3D would be huge for some of us.


----------



## Maqnvm7

Are all USTs out of focus & distorted in the top corners? Or is it just the T1? Because I just got mine and it‘s really blurry and uneven. Adjusting focus only helped slightly.


----------



## zaselim

donw said:


> Thanks for that. I will be using this primarily at night with full light control, so the ALR function isn't that important to me. I suppose I could turn down the intensity if there is hot spot.


Man that is really a bad situation. I hope I don't get this issue and yours gets fixed soon, and by the pics seller sent me of my unit seem ok. The seller took them to show me that he installed the update.


----------



## donw

tovaxxx said:


> The Vividstorm cost me the same as the ScreenPro. You just have to know where to buy.


Don't hold back...where did you buy?


----------



## donw

Maqnvm7 said:


> Are all USTs out of focus & distorted in the top corners? Or is it just the T1? Because I just got mine and it‘s really blurry and uneven. Adjusting focus only helped slightly.


Uh oH! Show us pics. I hope you don't have my issues. I have even picked mine up and tried to point it to the screen to adjust it, and the top 50% is always out of focus.


----------



## Maqnvm7

donw said:


> Uh oH! Show us pics. I hope you don't have my issues. I have even picked mine up and tried to point it to the screen to adjust it, and the top 50% is always out of focus.


It‘s nowhere near as bad as yours though. Will post some pics tomorrow, unless I magically fix it somehow.


----------



## whiskthecat

Maqnvm7 said:


> It‘s nowhere near as bad as yours though. Will post some pics tomorrow, unless I magically fix it somehow.


I was a bit disappointed with the focus of my Wemax Nova in the top left and right corners as well coming from a BenQ w1070. I doubt anything was "wrong" with it; it's probably just the nature of the beast when you consider the awkward throw angle of these projectors and the optical wizardry that has to take place.


----------



## JereyWolf

Just to add....my Samsung LSP9T and Hisense PX1-Pro have never had perfect focus on all areas of the screen at the same time. It's pretty obvious if you look at text from a few feet away...but from where I sit, it was never noticeable.


----------



## ted_b

whiskthecat said:


> I doubt anything was "wrong" with it; it's probably just the nature of the beast when you consider the awkward throw angle of these projectors and the optical wizardry that has to take place.


I don’t accept that! We all bought USTs cuz they claimed what they claimed. We’re just seeing early QC issues, something these companies need to budget for (ie free returns and fixes).


----------



## donw

I'm not sure you all realize how REALLY BAD my projector is. Here are a few zoomed in views.


----------



## m0j0

donw said:


> I'm not sure you all realize how REALLY BAD my projector is. Here are a few zoomed in views.
> View attachment 3252022
> 
> 
> View attachment 3252023
> 
> 
> View attachment 3252025
> 
> 
> View attachment 3252024


Yeah, pretty obvious in those pictures you have a defective unit. Any word on the shipping label?


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> Yeah, pretty obvious in those pictures you have a defective unit. Any word on the shipping label?


I've got an IM open with Chris, but she hasn't read it, yet. Hoping to hear soon.


----------



## whiskthecat

ted_b said:


> I don’t accept that! We all bought USTs cuz they claimed what they claimed. We’re just seeing early QC issues, something these companies need to budget for (ie free returns and fixes).


I'm not talking about horrendous focus like donw's unit. Just a slight blurring of the corners most distant from the projector. I haven't seen any UST manufacturer claiming perfect focus uniformity or even mentioning focus uniformity at all...


----------



## donw

donw said:


> I've got an IM open with Chris, but she hasn't read it, yet. Hoping to hear soon.


It is Saturday in China, so they may be closed. After all, Alibaba is primarily a B-to-B site.


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> Yeah, pretty obvious in those pictures you have a defective unit. Any word on the shipping label?


Chris finally responded that the US company would have UPS pick it up. Trying to find out when, now.


----------



## ProFragger

Slightly off topic guys... Just a lurker. Found USTs recently when exploring the usual, big OLED life in a media/theater room. Started with the usual US recommendations like the Hisense L9G, then went from Vava to AWOL to the T1 now. Excited to see that the contrast on these Chinese units is unheard of elsewhere while the DV + HDR10+ support looks real. 

Where I'm lost is, for a 120" screen, what is the least expensive, but still a quality option? Can you guys tell me where to start? How much to expect at least? Shall I dare to explore ALR paint route over a ready made screen? Shall I try to build mine with the fabric material sold? If so, where to start from? 

The out of the box convenience and warranty of L9G from Hisense is tempting, included screen and all! But I feel like, something like a T1 + screen is the better route... Appreciate your advice and help!


----------



## humax

ProFragger said:


> Where I'm lost is, for a 120" screen, what is the least expensive, but still a quality option? Can you guys tell me where to start? How much to expect at least? Shall I dare to explore ALR paint route over a ready made screen? Shall I try to build mine with the fabric material sold? If so, where to start from?



If you can afford it, get a Vividstorm roll up screen. Yes, I know it is expensive, but you can use it with any UST you may buy in the future. It is practically plug and play, its self-tensioning system is a big plus (basically, you 'll know that any geometry and focus issues come from the projector itself and not the screen) and you can place it anywhere you may please in your house. If you cannot afford it, you can try a pet crystal XY fixed frame screen. Building your own frame is not a good idea, unless you are really handy. Even factory made frames are not sturdy enough or the spring tensioning system is not well-thought and cause ripple effects on commercially available cheaper screens. This is a disaster for UST projection. I doubt you will do any better.


----------



## shanedowley

whiskthecat said:


> I'm not talking about horrendous focus like donw's unit. Just a slight blurring of the corners most distant from the projector. I haven't seen any UST manufacturer claiming perfect focus uniformity or even mentioning focus uniformity at all...


I’ve had five USTs over the years: Xiaomi Mi Laser, Wemax A300, Fengmi C2, Optoma P2 and Xiaomi C2. 
All of them have had pin sharp focus uniformly except for a very slight blurring top left and right corners of my 100” set up (using XY Screen fix frame ALR screens). I’ve taken this as acceptable given how little actual content is displayed in these areas of the screen and how from a normal seating position it is hard to detect.


----------



## driege

spocky12 said:


> Projectivy Launcher is on the launch pad , awaiting the release of firmware 2.0. Only then will the countdown begin.
> In the meantime, I'm polishing its engine cogs.
> It may not send you to Mars, but it'll definitely take off in March


Can you share what features will be available for the T1? My main beef is how difficult it is to change inputs.


----------



## tovaxxx

donw said:


> Don't hold back...where did you buy?


You get the best price for the Vividstorm at WUPRO. Better than directly from Vividstorm.


----------



## Tanizhq

Is anyone having an issue with the latest firmware where it keeps changing the colour mode on restart? It keeps going to Custom, but I want to use Display mode with View Brightness

Also I was wondering if someone had good settings for Office Brightness, as with Dolby Vision the View brightness has a very green hue to it so need to use Office for DV.
If I have a good custom setting for Office Brightness for SDR and HDR, it would fix both issues and I wouldn’t need to swap mode depending on the content. Perhaps @lattiboy has some?


----------



## mirzank

Does anybody have suggestions on good alr paint to use for this ? I have a huge wall this will be projecting on. I know the drawbacks but screen is not an option. I have an off white colour right now on the wall. Would prefer a similar colour of alr paint if possible so it kind of matches rest of the walls and space.


----------



## GaeIta80

mirzank said:


> Does anybody have suggestions on good alr paint to use for this ? I have a huge wall this will be projecting on. I know the drawbacks but screen is not an option. I have an off white colour right now on the wall. Would prefer a similar colour of alr paint if possible so it kind of matches rest of the walls and space.


Look for for an ALR high-contrast grey paint, there are few online to choose from


----------



## mirzank

GaeIta80 said:


> Look for for an ALR high-contrast grey paint, there are few online to choose from


Thank you will check. Does it usually come only in grey/darker colours ? No white ?


----------



## tovaxxx

Gray enhances the contrast. And that's what makes a good picture.


----------



## mirzank

tovaxxx said:


> Gray enhances the contrast. And that's what makes a good picture.


Yes that’s what my research showed. But unfortunately I have to get something white’ish. Would white alr paint (I found some online) atleast be better than having a normal white painted wall? Or at that point is it not even worth it?


----------



## humax

mirzank said:


> Does anybody have suggestions on good alr paint to use for this ? I have a huge wall this will be projecting on. I know the drawbacks but screen is not an option. I have an off white colour right now on the wall. Would prefer a similar colour of alr paint if possible so it kind of matches rest of the walls and space.




I don't have any experience with projection paints, but if you paint your wall to a shade of white color, I highly doubt you will get any ALR effect at all. There is a reason these screens are grey or darker color. The paint should have similar color characteristics. As for products, these guys seem popular lately on YouTube:

crystal edge technology screens (crystal-edge-technology-screens.com)

If you go ahead and do paint your wall, let us know it went. Other members might be interested in the result.


----------



## mirzank

humax said:


> I don't have any experience with projection paints, but if you paint your wall to a shade of white color, I highly doubt you will get any ALR effect at all. There is a reason these screens are grey or darker color. The paint should have similar color characteristics. As for products, these guys seem popular lately on YouTube:
> 
> crystal edge technology screens (crystal-edge-technology-screens.com)
> 
> If you go ahead and do paint your wall, let us know it went. Other members might be interested in the result.


yes that’s what I was wondering, if white alr paint will then even be worth it over a normal white wall.
Where I live there isn’t any alr paint so I’ll have to get it shipped internally, which is why I want to make sure it’s even worth the hassle. I’ll do some research and order it and post results if I go through it. Thanks for the advice.


----------



## mirzank

A quick google shows these guys nox screens have a white alr paint with a gain of 1.3-1.6. Is that any good ? Not sure what the gain is and if this is a good company/good gain amount ?


----------



## m0j0

ProFragger said:


> Slightly off topic guys... Just a lurker. Found USTs recently when exploring the usual, big OLED life in a media/theater room. Started with the usual US recommendations like the Hisense L9G, then went from Vava to AWOL to the T1 now. Excited to see that the contrast on these Chinese units is unheard of elsewhere while the DV + HDR10+ support looks real.
> 
> Where I'm lost is, for a 120" screen, what is the least expensive, but still a quality option? Can you guys tell me where to start? How much to expect at least? Shall I dare to explore ALR paint route over a ready made screen? Shall I try to build mine with the fabric material sold? If so, where to start from?
> 
> The out of the box convenience and warranty of L9G from Hisense is tempting, included screen and all! But I feel like, something like a T1 + screen is the better route... Appreciate your advice and help!


Unless you have a completely light controlled room, like a basement or something, I would get a traditional ALR type screen vs painted. I bought my PET Crystal ALR screen from XYscreen and have been pretty happy with it, though I went with the 100" version so not expensive in comparison to the 120" version. If you want pricing details you can email [email protected] and she will give you the price. I think they also offer the material without frame so you could ask about that as well if you want to price it out.


----------



## humax

mirzank said:


> A quick google shows these guys nox screens have a white alr paint with a gain of 1.3-1.6. Is that any good ? Not sure what the gain is and if this is a good company/good gain amount ?



Such high gains will create more problems than they will solve with a bright projector like the T1 and will destroy the dark scenes. If I were in your place, I would just leave the wall alone and do nothing at the moment.


----------



## zoomx2

Tanizhq said:


> Is anyone having an issue with the latest firmware where it keeps changing the colour mode on restart? It keeps going to Custom, but I want to use Display mode with View Brightness
> 
> Also I was wondering if someone had good settings for Office Brightness, as with Dolby Vision the View brightness has a very green hue to it so need to use Office for DV.
> If I have a good custom setting for Office Brightness for SDR and HDR, it would fix both issues and I wouldn’t need to swap mode depending on the content. Perhaps @lattiboy has some?


I took pictures and reported to [email protected] Custom setting is not able to select something. it is a testing firmware if anyone found out something wrong please report it.
After so many times I adjust the setting. Contrast 52 is the highest possible otherwise white loose detail. Brightness 57 with Dynamic Contrast ON. Saturation 45. Clarity 50, 0 too soft for my football games. Temperature I used to copy Gregory's measurement. After new firmware I found colour off so I chose Standard which give me the white white. I toggle View/Night mode during day and night use.


----------



## mirzank

humax said:


> Such high gains will create more problems than they will solve with a bright projector like the T1 and will destroy the dark scenes. If I were in your place, I would just leave the wall alone and do nothing at the moment.


thank you for the clear advice. Will leave it be then as I’m very happy with the picture, just thought maybe with some effort I could get a significantly better picture but that doesn’t seem to be the case.


----------



## Ricoflashback

mirzank said:


> thank you for the clear advice. Will leave it be then as I’m very happy with the picture, just thought maybe with some effort I could get a significantly better picture but that doesn’t seem to be the case.


Try this website. Maybe even call them. If a screen isn’t an option then making sure the surface is as free of any bumps or imperfections is a must. But if you’re happy with the picture then don’t worry about it. The AVS Forum is a place for all us OCD Home Theater enthusiasts to meet, informally, much like AA.









Paint On Screen - Paint a Projection Screen Anywhere!


Projection Screen Paint by Paint On Screen can be applied to any surface, is rated #1, water-based, easy to apply and very affordable. We offer real Silver, Diamond and Platinum projector screen paint for home theaters, studios, planetariums, theme parks, museums, simulators, schools...




paintonscreen.com





And, even an ALR white paint!









ULTRA SHORT THROW with AMBIENT LIGHT REJECTION


Paint On Screen has the coating you are looking for when it comes to Ultra Short Throw projection screens and areas with High Ambient Light. UST-ALR is a project-specific formulation designed to get the most out of your ultra-short-throw projector. Gain .7 Wide Angle Viewing Edge Blending -...




paintonscreen.com





Also - to blend with your current paint - I found this interesting:

“Match Any Decor. You provide a color chip, name or hex value and we will custom blend your choice into our patented ultra-fine formulation. Everything you love about projections screens without the boring rectangle on the wall. Now you can seamlessly match any size to any decor. Just provide the color information of your choice and we will send you an HD, 3D active, 4k, single formulation ready to paint onto any surface.”


----------



## m0j0

So, here's some observations I have made with regard to the hdmi detection at bootup on the T1 with the Roku Ultra. I noted that when I had HDMI set to 2.1, almost every time I turn everything on, that the resolution comes up as 1080p and BT709 color space on the T1, meaning I have to manually switch over to 2.0 and then back to 2.1 for it to switch to the proper 4k HDR BT2020 configuration. However, if I set HDMI to 2.0, during the next boot-up, it comes up correctly as 4k HDR BT2020 and no manual switching of HDMI is needed. This has been consistent for several days now with no issues. Since this is primarily for the kids, I am leaving it set at 2.0 for the most part, and plan to only switch it to 2.1 if I myself am watching an HDR or DV movie, as I do believe there's just a bit more brightness/pop/shadow detail with 2.1 vs. 2.0. When I'm done watching though, I will switch it back to 2.0 before turning it off.


----------



## m0j0

And here's two pictures from one of those demo videos on youtube. I don't much care for the bright orange stuff, but it does give you an idea about how vibrant colors can be on this projector.


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> Yeah, pretty obvious in those pictures you have a defective unit. Any word on the shipping label?


Okay, now Chris asked me to ship it to Iowa, and she will reimburse me for the shipping cost. I'm using UPS ground through PirateShip for $30.26 from Arizona to Iowa--saved $20.


----------



## m0j0

I'm sorry to say that even with the latest alpha firmware, dynamic contrast keeps finding a way to turn back on. I don't know why it's so difficult for them to just let us turn it off and keep it off. I don't want to have to keep going in and checking it all the time.


----------



## donw

tovaxxx said:


> You get the best price for the Vividstorm at WUPRO. Better than directly from Vividstorm.


Thanks. Looks like they're not selling the roll-down version right now, but they have a good price on the floor rising version.


----------



## ProFragger

humax said:


> If you can afford it, get a Vividstorm roll up screen. Yes, I know it is expensive, but you can use it with any UST you may buy in the future. It is practically plug and play, its self-tensioning system is a big plus (basically, you 'll know that any geometry and focus issues come from the projector itself and not the screen) and you can place it anywhere you may please in your house. If you cannot afford it, you can try a pet crystal XY fixed frame screen. Building your own frame is not a good idea, unless you are really handy. Even factory made frames are not sturdy enough or the spring tensioning system is not well-thought and cause ripple effects on commercially available cheaper screens. This is a disaster for UST projection. I doubt you will do any better.


Thank you friend. Yeah the Vividstorm is too rich for my blood, plus my wife wouldn't go for the console-less look 😊... 

Look for a fixed frame I'm thinking, in my theater room. What is the cheapest way to go about the Pet Crystal XY screen? And do they have ripple issues too? I have heard a bit about the Elite Screens too. What can I expect for the cost to be, around $1000 for a 120 solution? 

Thanks again!


----------



## ProFragger

m0j0 said:


> Unless you have a completely light controlled room, like a basement or something, I would get a traditional ALR type screen vs painted. I bought my PET Crystal ALR screen from XYscreen and have been pretty happy with it, though I went with the 100" version so not expensive in comparison to the 120" version. If you want pricing details you can email [email protected] and she will give you the price. I think they also offer the material without frame so you could ask about that as well if you want to price it out.


This is very helpful, thank you!


----------



## Directtv999

donw said:


> Okay, now Chris asked me to ship it to Iowa, and she will reimburse me for the shipping cost. I'm using UPS ground through PirateShip for $30.26 from Arizona to Iowa--saved $20.


Glad its taken care.


----------



## Ricoflashback

I actually think this is a better screen than the XY Pet Crystal. And of course, look at projectorscreen.com, as well.









Products







www.silverticketproducts.com


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> I actually think this is a better screen than the XY Pet Crystal. And of course, look at projectorscreen.com, as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Products
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.silverticketproducts.com


What are you basing that on? Samples, experience with both?


----------



## humax

ProFragger said:


> Thank you friend. Yeah the Vividstorm is too rich for my blood, plus my wife wouldn't go for the console-less look 😊...
> 
> Look for a fixed frame I'm thinking, in my theater room. What is the cheapest way to go about the Pet Crystal XY screen? And do they have ripple issues too? I have heard a bit about the Elite Screens too. What can I expect for the cost to be, around $1000 for a 120 solution?
> 
> Thanks again!



Yes, XY and TELON Pet Crystal are probably the cheapest choices of a minimum quality standard. Below that you get Pet Grid material with thinner frames.

How to install Telon PET Crystal 4k ust alr screen? - YouTube


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> What are you basing that on? Samples, experience with both?


Current experience with SilverTicket products and online reviews. Take a peak at their video, as well. Excellent customer support and response times via Email. Heavy duty frame. Faster shipping time. I’m not trying to denigrate XY Screens. Excellent pricing for a quality 120” size, as well.


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> Current experience with SilverTicket products and online reviews. Take a peak at their video, as well. Excellent customer support and response times via Email. Heavy duty frame. Faster shipping time. I’m not trying to denigrate XY Screens. Excellent pricing for a quality 120” size, as well.


I have had a Silver Ticket 1.0 gain matte white screen but don’t have any experience with their ALR screens and don’t recall any reviews on them, so I don’t know how good they are.


----------



## manwithnoname

Maqnvm7 said:


> Are all USTs out of focus & distorted in the top corners? Or is it just the T1? Because I just got mine and it‘s really blurry and uneven. Adjusting focus only helped slightly.





whiskthecat said:


> I'm not talking about horrendous focus like donw's unit. Just a slight blurring of the corners most distant from the projector. I haven't seen any UST manufacturer claiming perfect focus uniformity or even mentioning focus uniformity at all...


Hey guys, I don't know if this will help, but when I first got the T1 I was extremely disappointed with the blur at the top right-hand corner of the screen. The area where the clock is displayed was extremely blurry and out of focus. I tried adjusting the "Multi-Point Keystone" setting with no luck, and ended up wasting a bunch of time trying to move the projector around and tightening up my screen, with no improvement.

While browsing through a different Settings menu, I found the setting called "Screen Focus". I had assumed this was the same Focus setting I had been adjusting previously (the multi-point Keystone was definitely helping focus the right, but was blurring the left more), but it is completely different. You can only move the focus to the right and left, not multi-points as in the other menu. Pressing the remote button to the left about 12 clicks made everything PERFECT. Both corners were in perfect focus.

There are 2 ways I found to get to this menu:
1. From the "*Mobile App*" menu, select "*ForMovie Projector Settings*", then under "*Image and Sound*" select "*Image*", then finally scroll down and select "*Screen Focus*".

2. From the "*3 Lines*" menu button on the remote, select "*Settings*", then under "*Image and Sound*" select "*Image*", then finally scroll down and select "*Screen Focus*".

Once I adjusted the Screen Focus setting, image quality improved greatly.


----------



## m0j0

manwithnoname said:


> Hey guys, I don't know if this will help, but when I first got the T1 I was extremely disappointed with the blur at the top right-hand corner of the screen. The area where the clock is displayed was extremely blurry and out of focus. I tried adjusting the "Image Focus" setting with no luck, and ended up wasting a bunch of time trying to move the projector around and tightening up my screen, with no improvement.
> 
> While browsing through a different Settings menu, I found the setting called "Screen Focus" (not "Image Focus"). I had assumed this was the same Focus setting I had been adjusting previously, but it is completely different. You can only move the focus to the right and left, not multi-points as in the other menu. Pressing the remote button to the left about 12 clicks made everything PERFECT. Both corners were in perfect focus.
> 
> There are 2 ways I found to get to this menu:
> 1. From the "*Mobile App*" menu, select "*ForMovie Projector Settings*", then under "*Image and Sound*" select "*Image*", then finally select "*Screen Focus*".
> 
> 2. From the "*3 Lines*" menu button on the remote, select "*Settings*", then under "*Image and Sound*" select "*Image*", then finally select "*Screen Focus*".
> 
> The key here is that there are two different focus settings, so it may be worth it to check both. Once I adjusted the Screen Focus setting, image quality improved greatly.


Thanks for sharing!


----------



## humax

manwithnoname said:


> The key here is that there are two different focus settings, so it may be worth it to check both. Once I adjusted the Screen Focus setting, image quality improved greatly.



Nice find, my friend, but now I am curious how can everyone have missed it?


----------



## jeff9n

ProFragger said:


> Where I'm lost is, for a 120" screen, what is the least expensive, but still a quality option? Can you guys tell me where to start? How much to expect at least? Shall I dare to explore ALR paint route over a ready made screen? Shall I try to build mine with the fabric material sold? If so, where to start from?


Don't try to build your own screen. I did it and it was not worth the trouble. Most important, UST is very sensitive to uneven surface. Unless you are able to build extremely flat screen, any bumpy spot will
make the video looks wavy under white background. It's too distracting. 

The Silver Ticket grey matte fixed screen (non-ALR) is a great low cost option. That is what I have.


----------



## ProFragger

humax said:


> Yes, XY and TELON Pet Crystal are probably the cheapest choices of a minimum quality standard. Below that you get Pet Grid material with thinner frames.
> 
> How to install Telon PET Crystal 4k ust alr screen? - YouTube


Thank you. What kind of cost do you think is to be expected of a framed 120? Around a grand? I guess the lowest quality does make me hesitate, but I might have to compromise as I have fairly easy lighting conditions in my theater room. Basically no windows... 

I wonder how those XY screens compared to the packaged screens in Hisense and maybe the Xiaomi screens? Happy to hear if you are in the know of that. Thank you.


----------



## ProFragger

jeff9n said:


> Don't try to build your own screen. I did it and it was not worth the trouble. Most important, UST is very sensitive to uneven surface. Unless you are able to build extremely flat screen, any bumpy spot will
> make the video looks wavy under white background. It's too distracting.
> 
> The Silver Ticket grey matte fixed screen (non-ALR) is a great low cost option. That is what I have.


Thank you for sharing your experience. Yeah, I'd want at least an ALR and am definitely leaning towards a pre-built one. 

Considering the Hisense L9G bundle that comes in the US. If it gets the Dolby Vision support as they promised + their US warranty and all... I wonder if it's still the viable path to go for the T1 and a separate screen? Eager to see your opinions on this... Sometimes those L9G packages could be high 3s or low 4s in the US....


----------



## ted_b

For those of you with motorized screens (like Vividstorm, my ceiling based 120" arrives on the 21st) how well have they returned to the same spot each time they are unrolled? I know these are table stakes for motorized screens, it seems to be on another level of importance with the tight alignment tolerances of USTs.


----------



## Maqnvm7

manwithnoname said:


> Hey guys, I don't know if this will help, but when I first got the T1 I was extremely disappointed with the blur at the top right-hand corner of the screen. The area where the clock is displayed was extremely blurry and out of focus. I tried adjusting the "Image Focus" setting with no luck, and ended up wasting a bunch of time trying to move the projector around and tightening up my screen, with no improvement.
> 
> While browsing through a different Settings menu, I found the setting called "Screen Focus" (not "Image Focus"). I had assumed this was the same Focus setting I had been adjusting previously, but it is completely different. You can only move the focus to the right and left, not multi-points as in the other menu. Pressing the remote button to the left about 12 clicks made everything PERFECT. Both corners were in perfect focus.
> 
> There are 2 ways I found to get to this menu:
> 1. From the "*Mobile App*" menu, select "*ForMovie Projector Settings*", then under "*Image and Sound*" select "*Image*", then finally scroll down and select "*Screen Focus*".
> 
> 2. From the "*3 Lines*" menu button on the remote, select "*Settings*", then under "*Image and Sound*" select "*Image*", then finally scroll down and select "*Screen Focus*".
> 
> The key here is that there are two different focus settings, so it may be worth it to check both. Once I adjusted the Screen Focus setting, image quality improved greatly.


Hmm, Ive been using Screen Focus already and that did help, but now Im curious, wheres the Image Focus setting with multiple points?


----------



## donw

manwithnoname said:


> Hey guys, I don't know if this will help, but when I first got the T1 I was extremely disappointed with the blur at the top right-hand corner of the screen. The area where the clock is displayed was extremely blurry and out of focus. I tried adjusting the "Image Focus" setting with no luck, and ended up wasting a bunch of time trying to move the projector around and tightening up my screen, with no improvement.
> 
> While browsing through a different Settings menu, I found the setting called "Screen Focus" (not "Image Focus"). I had assumed this was the same Focus setting I had been adjusting previously, but it is completely different. You can only move the focus to the right and left, not multi-points as in the other menu. Pressing the remote button to the left about 12 clicks made everything PERFECT. Both corners were in perfect focus.
> 
> There are 2 ways I found to get to this menu:
> 1. From the "*Mobile App*" menu, select "*ForMovie Projector Settings*", then under "*Image and Sound*" select "*Image*", then finally scroll down and select "*Screen Focus*".
> 
> 2. From the "*3 Lines*" menu button on the remote, select "*Settings*", then under "*Image and Sound*" select "*Image*", then finally scroll down and select "*Screen Focus*".
> 
> The key here is that there are two different focus settings, so it may be worth it to check both. Once I adjusted the Screen Focus setting, image quality improved greatly.


Thanks! Very interesting. I wish you'd posted this before I shipped mine back!


----------



## humax

ProFragger said:


> Thank you. What kind of cost do you think is to be expected of a framed 120?


Check out this link: 120" 4K home cinema ambient light reject PET Crystal ust ALR screen CLR screen | eBay 

This should be XY or Telon.



ProFragger said:


> Considering the Hisense L9G bundle that comes in the US. If it gets the Dolby Vision support as they promised + their US warranty and all... I wonder if it's still the viable path to go for the T1 and a separate screen? Eager to see your opinions on this... Sometimes those L9G packages could be high 3s or low 4s in the US....


The Hisense does not have the contrast of the T1, period. If you do not mind that Hisense is a OK choice from a reputable brand.


----------



## Ricoflashback

SilverTicket screens are also available via Amazon with their fast shipment as well as direct from SilverTicket. The thinner, S7 bezel is the best option for a UST projector and I’ve often wondered if their gray matte. 1.0 gain screen could be used with a UST PJ in a darker room with lighter walls. I’m not sure if there would be any halo effect or how the off axis viewing would work out. Obviously - if you have a lot of light in the room and definitely will be watching during the day time - an ALR material makes more sense. But if you watch mostly at night with very little or no ambient light - it would be interesting to see the brightness and color contrast plus black levels with a gray matte screen vs. an ALR screen. 

There are always trade offs, especially if you don’t have a black velvet Elvis bat cave. I really think most of the ALR material is the same with the biggest difference being the quality of the frame construction. But a gray matte SilverTicket S7 screen can be had for a very low price.


----------



## Maqnvm7

Watching Dune right now, and theres another very annoying problem I have. For some reason theres something wrong with the colors for like a split second on cuts/scene switches. Its like the picture is in black & white for a couple of milliseconds. It makes it unbearable to watch. I hope its just some setting I have enabled lol


----------



## manwithnoname

Maqnvm7 said:


> Hmm, Ive been using Screen Focus already and that did help, but now Im curious, wheres the Image Focus setting with multiple points?


Very sorry here... I realized that what I was referring to was the multi-point Keystone setting... sorry for the confusion. I will fix my original post.

However, it seems like one of the first things to do out of the box is to play with the Focus setting and push it to the left. I believe others have stated that here as well.


----------



## donw

manwithnoname said:


> Very sorry here... I realized that what I was referring to was the multi-point Keystone setting... sorry for the confusion. I will fix my original post.
> 
> However, it seems like one of the first things to do out of the box is to play with the Focus setting and push it to the left. I believe others have stated that here as well.


Uhhhm, yeahhh. Keystone correction had no effect on focus for me!


----------



## GaeIta80

donw said:


> Thanks. Looks like they're not selling the roll-down version right now, but they have a good price on the floor rising version.


I have just purchased the Vividstorm drop down 120" tab tension from them...strange


----------



## Maqnvm7

Maqnvm7 said:


> Watching Dune right now, and theres another very annoying problem I have. For some reason theres something wrong with the colors for like a split second on cuts/scene switches. Its like the picture is in black & white for a couple of milliseconds. It makes it unbearable to watch. I hope its just some setting I have enabled lol


Heres an example of a scene switch (sry for the quality):

Scene 1









Transition to Scene 2 with weird colors (theres also some residue from the previous scene??)









Scene 2 with normal colors


----------



## lattiboy

Maqnvm7 said:


> Heres an example of a scene switch (sry for the quality):
> 
> Scene 1
> View attachment 3252329
> 
> 
> Transition to Scene 2 with weird colors (theres also some residue from the previous scene??)
> View attachment 3252332
> 
> 
> Scene 2 with normal colors
> View attachment 3252331


It looks like HDR tone mapping becomes temporary disengaged. This happens for about half a second when I first start an HDR movie in Plex. I would advise trying another media streamer or switching out an HDMI cable.


----------



## Maqnvm7

lattiboy said:


> It looks like HDR tone mapping becomes temporary disengaged. This happens for about half a second when I first start an HDR movie in Plex. I would advise trying another media streamer or switching out an HDMI cable.


Hmm, already tried a different cable but that didnt help. Im watching the movie on a Bluray player, so I cant really try a different one. Maybe I‘ll download the movie. At first I thought its the MEMC because it looks almost identical to motion artifacts when it switches scenes.


----------



## donw

GaeIta80 said:


> I have just purchased the Vividstorm drop down 120" tab tension from them...strange


Search Wupro store on Alibaba for "Vividstorm" and see what comes up.


----------



## Ricoflashback

GaeIta80 said:


> I have just purchased the Vividstorm drop down 120" tab tension from them...strange


I’ve always liked a drop down screen as it can be neatly tucked into your decor. Did you get the perforated acoustic transparent or the screen without perforations? I’d prefer the latter as I’m not sure how well the perforated part sounds. And, can they adjust the drop at the factory? SilverTicket did that for my current, tab-tensioned screen. Please let us know how it works. I would think a drop down screen would be easier to align as it‘s easier to adjust the top drop a couple inches either way to get it just right.

***Whoops - I didn’t read the description well enough. It says for a ceiling mounted projector. Kind of defeats the purpose of a UST PJ. I guess you can use the perforated version with a UST projector and just live with the top perforations. I’m not sure if they are the exact same screen material or not. Why not offer the ALR material without the perforations?


----------



## Maqnvm7

lattiboy said:


> It looks like HDR tone mapping becomes temporary disengaged. This happens for about half a second when I first start an HDR movie in Plex. I would advise trying another media streamer or switching out an HDMI cable.


Alright I fixed it I think. 
I checked the status infos on my Bluray player and it didnt say Dolby Vision, it said Dynamic Range Conversion. So I tried changing HDMI from Auto to 2.1 and boom! Crazy colors and no weird artifacts! Now I just hope this problem doesnt affect movies that only have „standard“ HDR.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Maqnvm7 said:


> Alright I fixed it I think.
> I checked the status infos on my Bluray player and it didnt say Dolby Vision, it said Dynamic Range Conversion. So I tried changing HDMI from Auto to 2.1 and boom! Crazy colors and no weird artifacts! Now I just hope this problem doesnt affect movies that only have „standard“ HDR.


It’s almost getting comical with the minor glitches using the Fengmi T1. It’s a great projector but it sounds like you need a manual close by to research “if this happens, then do this.”


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> It’s almost getting comical with the minor glitches using the Fengmi T1. It’s a great projector but it sounds like you need a manual close by to research “if this happens, then do this.”


I tell you what though, it's worth it! I just love the picture my T1 is giving me! I put it on game mode and the kids played Mario Kart Racing 8 and it was so nice to look at! Then we put on some Battlebots in HD and again, beautiful and just really engaging! Then we watched some 4k HDR content including Moana, Encanto and Frozen II and all looked really, really good! The T1 is really getting it done in the living room for us!


----------



## CabbageMan

Randomly tried seeing if I could wake the T1 back up with my ATV4K remote after turning off the ATV and it worked! Still can't fully turn off the T1 with my ATV remote but I feel like this is a step in the right direction. Has anyone else been having luck with this since the update?

Just to be clear, before the update if I turned off the ATV, the T1 would go to sleep but not actually turn off. If I wanted to wake the T1 back up I would need to use the T1 remote as the ATV remote would not wake up the T1. Now my ATV remote is waking the T1 in that scenario. Still doesn't really matter to me as I always fully power down but like I said it feels like a step in the right direction.


----------



## m0j0

CabbageMan said:


> Randomly tried seeing if I could wake the T1 back up with my ATV4K remote after turning off the ATV and it worked! Still can't fully turn off the T1 with my ATV remote but I feel like this is a step in the right direction. Has anyone else been having luck with this since the update?
> 
> Just to be clear, before the update if I turned off the ATV, the T1 would go to sleep but not actually turn off. If I wanted to wake the T1 back up I would need to use the T1 remote as the ATV remote would not wake up the T1. Now my ATV remote is waking the T1 in that scenario. Still doesn't really matter to me as I always fully power down but like I said it feels like a step in the right direction.


I plugged in a chromecast in hdmi 3 and can use voice commands to turn on and turn off the T1. However, still haven’t found a good way to turn on with my harmony remote.


----------



## gostocks

Hi again
I'm a Noob as per earlier post and T1 is my first UST.

For several days I've been using wall since getting the protector and in the beginning I was ok but as you start to get used to the quality and contrast you start to get bothered by the ambient lighting even at night (non bat cave).

I can order online between vividstorm and XY tension (both floor self rising). Fixed screen not an option.
https://shopee.co.th/product/257099514/3637524211?smtt=0.85351667-1647135984.9

Does anyone know the difference? I can't seem to find more information on gain level etc.

I am contemplating between 100" vs 120" and I'm sitting about 3.5m away. I'm attaching one overblown screen grab of video so you can see relative size (excuse the mess) vs still capture when I walk up close.

Thanks


----------



## m0j0

gostocks said:


> Hi again
> I'm a Noob as per earlier post and T1 is my first UST.
> 
> For several days I've been using wall since getting the protector and in the beginning I was ok but as you start to get used to the quality and contrast you start to get bothered by the ambient lighting even at night (non bat cave).
> 
> I can order online between vividstorm and XY tension (both floor self rising). Fixed screen not an option.
> https://shopee.co.th/product/257099514/3637524211?smtt=0.85351667-1647135984.9
> 
> Does anyone know the difference? I can't seem to find more information on gain level etc.
> 
> I am contemplating between 100" vs 120" and I'm sitting about 3.5m away. I'm attaching one overblown screen grab of video so you can see relative size (excuse the mess) vs still capture when I walk up close.
> 
> Thanks


You can't go wrong with either the vividstorm or the XYscreen I believe. As for the size, go as big as you are comfortable with. At 3.5m, you could really go either way, but probably smarter to go with the 120" size.


----------



## eezrider

Directtv999 said:


> Glad its taken care.


This is good news. Glad to see them going the extra mile for you.


----------



## ProFragger

humax said:


> Check out this link: 120" 4K home cinema ambient light reject PET Crystal ust ALR screen CLR screen | eBay
> 
> This should be XY or Telon.
> 
> 
> 
> The Hisense does not have the contrast of the T1, period. If you do not mind that Hisense is a OK choice from a reputable brand.



Thank you... All the screens talked about in this thread seems to give me that $1000 to $1200 range. Do you have any thoughts about the high-ish gain on these? I think XY Screens, maybe the Silver and all have a gain close to 1 or higher....


I keep hearing the contrast is unmatched on the T1 or Xiaomi 4K... But I wonder, cause I've never even owned a projector in my life... Is that contrast and HDR compatibility worth foregoing the security and protection of a US available brand? Looking for opinions, I guess... I also heard that these Xiaomis have lost 3D support and will never get it again...? 

Thank you again for all your help!


----------



## ProFragger

Ricoflashback said:


> It’s almost getting comical with the minor glitches using the Fengmi T1. It’s a great projector but it sounds like you need a manual close by to research “if this happens, then do this.”


Sounds like an opportunity to start a Sticky or a Wiki post 😉!


----------



## ProFragger

m0j0 said:


> I tell you what though, it's worth it! I just love the picture my T1 is giving me! I put it on game mode and the kids played Mario Kart Racing 8 and it was so nice to look at! Then we put on some Battlebots in HD and again, beautiful and just really engaging! Then we watched some 4k HDR content including Moana, Encanto and Frozen II and all looked really, really good! The T1 is really getting it done in the living room for us!


Are you able to get the lag numbers for gaming on this projector? Thank you.


----------



## jeff9n

ProFragger said:


> I keep hearing the contrast is unmatched on the T1 or Xiaomi 4K... But I wonder, cause I've never even owned a projector in my life... Is that contrast and HDR compatibility worth foregoing the security and protection of a US available brand?


My very first projector is the Xiaomi 1S 4K. Pairing it with the Silver Ticket White Matte 1.1 gain 165-in screen, it's the best electronic item I have ever purchased. You won't go wrong with T1 as it looks so good for 4K/8K contents. 

IMO, it is well worth the risk buying from overseas. You are getting the best bang for your buck. Of course there will be unlucky buyers getting defective units. But that is the case with all manufacturers.


----------



## zoomx2

Can't go wrong with T1. All my friends see it and surprise how good a projector can produce such a contrast color during day and night use. I can't see myself going back to regular TV anymore unless 100” drop to $2000 in one day.


----------



## ProFragger

jeff9n said:


> My very first projector is the Xiaomi 1S 4K. Pairing it with the Silver Ticket White Matte 1.1 gain 165-in screen, it's the best electronic item I have ever purchased. You won't go wrong with T1 as it looks so good for 4K/8K contents.
> 
> IMO, it is well worth the risk buying from overseas. You are getting the best bang for your buck. Of course there will be unlucky buyers getting defective units. But that is the case with all manufacturers.


Thanks for your experience, Jeff. Another resounding yes for these 😊. Did you have any issues with that much gain on the screen? Also, do we have a workaround for Netflix on these projectors yet? Thanks again.


----------



## ProFragger

zoomx2 said:


> Can't go wrong with T1. All my friends see it and surprise how good a projector can produce such a contrast color during day and night use. I can't see myself going back to regular TV anymore unless 100” drop to $2000 in one day.


Thank you for sharing your screen as well. What kind of screen do you use? And is there a Netflix workaround for these?


----------



## humax

gostocks said:


> Hi again
> I'm a Noob as per earlier post and T1 is my first UST.
> 
> For several days I've been using wall since getting the protector and in the beginning I was ok but as you start to get used to the quality and contrast you start to get bothered by the ambient lighting even at night (non bat cave).
> 
> I can order online between vividstorm and XY tension (both floor self rising). Fixed screen not an option.
> https://shopee.co.th/product/257099514/3637524211?smtt=0.85351667-1647135984.9
> 
> Does anyone know the difference? I can't seem to find more information on gain level etc.
> 
> I am contemplating between 100" vs 120" and I'm sitting about 3.5m away. I'm attaching one overblown screen grab of video so you can see relative size (excuse the mess) vs still capture when I walk up close.




Get the cheaper of the two. They look pretty much the same to me:

XY floor rising screen vs Vividstorm S Pro - YouTube


----------



## Deanodxb

CabbageMan said:


> Randomly tried seeing if I could wake the T1 back up with my ATV4K remote after turning off the ATV and it worked! Still can't fully turn off the T1 with my ATV remote but I feel like this is a step in the right direction. Has anyone else been having luck with this since the update?


I’m on original firmware and just have a ATV4K connected to HDMI 1. Everything wakes and shuts down through ATV4K menu. T1 doesn’t sleep in fact, it shuts off fully after the fans have spun down to cool the unit.


----------



## shanedowley

Ricoflashback said:


> It’s almost getting comical with the minor glitches using the Fengmi T1. It’s a great projector but it sounds like you need a manual close by to research “if this happens, then do this.”


If you’re getting any weirdness in HDR/DV rendering it is most likely down to the HDMI EDID handshake issue where the T1 has reverted back to HDMI v1.4 (SDR only) but hasn’t told you from the Play Settings menu under the projector’s HDMI settings menu. It will still show whatever HDMI version you last set it to but actually be operating in 1.4 mode. I can see this from reading the projector’s EDID table data on the HDFury.

So before you play any material after a projector reboot, an input change or a source device change, first manually toggle the Play Settings HDMI version between 2.0 and 2.1. Settle on either 2.0 or 2.1 and then start your source playback.


----------



## JereyWolf

shanedowley said:


> If you’re getting any weirdness in HDR/DV rendering it is most likely down to the HDMI EDID handshake issue where the T1 has reverted back to HDMI v1.4 (SDR only) but hasn’t told you from the Play Settings menu under the projector’s HDMI settings menu. It will still show whatever HDMI version you last set it to but actually be operating in 1.4 mode. I can see this from reading the projector’s EDID table data on the HDFury.
> 
> So before you play any material after a projector reboot, an input change or a source device change, first manually toggle the Play Settings HDMI version between 2.0 and 2.1. Settle on either 2.0 or 2.1 and then start your source playback.


I know this HDMI version switching keeps coming up and I hope the bug is addressed. 

Is there any reason to use HDMI 2.1 if you are not trying to send a 4k/120hz signal?

Are people using source devices sending 4:4:4 4k/60hz signals and does that have a noticable visual impact on Dolby Vision or other HDR content?


----------



## shanedowley

JereyWolf said:


> I know this HDMI version switching keeps coming up and I hope the bug is addressed.
> 
> Is there any reason to use HDMI 2.1 if you are not trying to send a 4k/120hz signal?
> 
> Are people using source devices sending 4:4:4 4k/60hz signals and does that have a noticable visual impact on Dolby Vision or other HDR content?


Personally I can’t see any point in using v2.1 unless u have a source that can send 60Hz8k or 120Hz4k. But even then the T1 (and C2) will down scale to 60Hz4k so I’m not sure what gain that would give us.


----------



## JereyWolf

shanedowley said:


> Personally I can’t see any point in using v2.1 unless u have a source that can send 60Hz8k or 120Hz4k. But even then the T1 (and C2) will down scale to 60Hz4k so I’m not sure what gain that would give us.


I guess that for my setup with a PC connected, HDMI 2.1 sending 4k/60hz 4:4:4 should actually be pretty beneficial for clear text in PC use and gaming interfaces. But for general HDR or DV content from typical sources it's not going to be full chroma anyway and therefore not require HDMI 2.1 as long as you're sending a 4k/60 signal.


----------



## gostocks

Can a good ALR screen really enhance more than what I already see during the night on a white wall?

HDR10 custom/night mode


----------



## gostocks

humax said:


> Get the cheaper of the two. They look pretty much the same to me:
> 
> XY floor rising screen vs Vividstorm S Pro - YouTube


Thanks for the link. At 0:54 champagne glass... You can certainly tell a difference.


----------



## m0j0

gostocks said:


> Can a good ALR screen really enhance more than what I already see during the night on a white wall?
> 
> HDR10 costum/night mode


That looks pretty good, but yes, a dedicated screen will most likely give you a much brighter/punchier picture.


----------



## humax

gostocks said:


> Can a good ALR screen really enhance more than what I already see during the night on a white wall?
> 
> HDR10 costum/night mode



Watch the video after 7:35: The New Vividstorm S PRO Electric Tension UST ALR Floor Screen | Latest Version - YouTube


----------



## gostocks

Deanodxb said:


> I’m on original firmware and just have a ATV4K connected to HDMI 1. Everything wakes and shuts down through ATV4K menu. T1 doesn’t sleep in fact, it shuts off fully after the fans have spun down to cool the unit.


Does Netflix Atmos output to built-in speakers work for you on ATV?


----------



## m0j0

ProFragger said:


> Are you able to get the lag numbers for gaming on this projector? Thank you.


I didn't measure myself, but according to Gregory's tests, it's 43.3 ms in game mode.


----------



## gostocks

humax said:


> Watch the video after 7:35: The New Vividstorm S PRO Electric Tension UST ALR Floor Screen | Latest Version - YouTube


Thanks... Wow.. day and night difference😲. I just wish the price difference between 100" vs "120 wasn't so extreme...


----------



## ProjectionHead

Ricoflashback said:


> Try this website. Maybe even call them. If a screen isn’t an option then making sure the surface is as free of any bumps or imperfections is a must. But if you’re happy with the picture then don’t worry about it. The AVS Forum is a place for all us OCD Home Theater enthusiasts to meet, informally, much like AA.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paint On Screen - Paint a Projection Screen Anywhere!
> 
> 
> Projection Screen Paint by Paint On Screen can be applied to any surface, is rated #1, water-based, easy to apply and very affordable. We offer real Silver, Diamond and Platinum projector screen paint for home theaters, studios, planetariums, theme parks, museums, simulators, schools...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> paintonscreen.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, even an ALR white paint!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ULTRA SHORT THROW with AMBIENT LIGHT REJECTION
> 
> 
> Paint On Screen has the coating you are looking for when it comes to Ultra Short Throw projection screens and areas with High Ambient Light. UST-ALR is a project-specific formulation designed to get the most out of your ultra-short-throw projector. Gain .7 Wide Angle Viewing Edge Blending -...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> paintonscreen.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also - to blend with your current paint - I found this interesting:
> 
> “Match Any Decor. You provide a color chip, name or hex value and we will custom blend your choice into our patented ultra-fine formulation. Everything you love about projections screens without the boring rectangle on the wall. Now you can seamlessly match any size to any decor. Just provide the color information of your choice and we will send you an HD, 3D active, 4k, single formulation ready to paint onto any surface.”


We carry Paint on Screen and are the only dealer I know of aside from their own website. 
Paint is a good economical option but will never provide the same resolution as a proper screen unless you can apply it with no texture (spraying is better than rolling).
Also be careful with UST as they will accentuate any deviation of flatness on your wall and the image will be distorted, even with a flawless, texture free paint application.
That being said, this product as an optical coating is really popular and provides an nice economical alternative to a finished screen if applied well.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Ricoflashback said:


> I actually think this is a better screen than the XY Pet Crystal. And of course, look at projectorscreen.com, as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Products
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.silverticketproducts.com




















I’ve uploaded some pics comparing various UST surfaces before. For the money, I really like the new Spectra Projection product, it replaces Grandview (since Grandview can’t seem to ship products out of China anymore) and performs equitably to the more expensive Elite DarkUST.
In the dark, a lot of them look similar but with a lot of light the lower gain option really had better black levels.
The projector used here was the 2,200:1 contrast LG HU85LA for reference.
Will be doing again with the T1 once I get a working unit and will measure the black floor on all surfaces (going to be adding the Silver Ticket and Stewart BlackHawk samples into the mix as well as the Elite CLR and CLR4 when I get those samples in)


----------



## zoomx2

ProFragger said:


> Thank you for sharing your screen as well. What kind of screen do you use? And is there a Netflix workaround for these?


My screen is no brand ALR Per Crystal 100” for $200 + shipping. I bought it together with T1 from Chris Chen in Alibaba. You can chat with her about the different sizes and needs. 
I was able to install Netflix apk in the T1 but the version requires mouse control. I can't able to use it with the original remote so I uninstalled it. I use DAZN, Youtube in T1 so lazy to use 2 remotes lol.


----------



## GaeIta80

Ricoflashback said:


> I’ve always liked a drop down screen as it can be neatly tucked into your decor. Did you get the perforated acoustic transparent or the screen without perforations? I’d prefer the latter as I’m not sure how well the perforated part sounds. And, can they adjust the drop at the factory? SilverTicket did that for my current, tab-tensioned screen. Please let us know how it works. I would think a drop down screen would be easier to align as it‘s easier to adjust the top drop a couple inches either way to get it just right.
> 
> ***Whoops - I didn’t read the description well enough. It says for a ceiling mounted projector. Kind of defeats the purpose of a UST PJ. I guess you can use the perforated version with a UST projector and just live with the top perforations. I’m not sure if they are the exact same screen material or not. Why not offer the ALR material without the perforations?


My Vividstorm is not perforated but an ALR for UST screen for UST projectors placed on a console table, no ceiling mounted.

It's not on WuPro products list, you need to ask them on pvt messages 😉


----------



## GaeIta80

donw said:


> Search Wupro store on Alibaba for "Vividstorm" and see what comes up.


They "can't" advertise them...but send a pm to one of their sales guys and see what comes up


----------



## rooterha

Yeah I got vividstorm from wupro as well. You should focus on private messages... much more room for haggling / package discounts etc


----------



## Maqnvm7

Is it normal for subtitles to look „funny“? 
Could it be RBE?


----------



## m0j0

Maqnvm7 said:


> Is it normal for subtitles to look „funny“?
> Could it be RBE?


Could be... Don't go looking for RBE though...


----------



## Maqnvm7

m0j0 said:


> Could be... Don't go looking for RBE though...


Ha, that‘s kinda what I did. But so far only the subtitles seem a bit weird at times. Everything else looks good.


----------



## JackB

m0j0 said:


> I'm sorry to say that even with the latest alpha firmware, dynamic contrast keeps finding a way to turn back on. I don't know why it's so difficult for them to just let us turn it off and keep it off. I don't want to have to keep going in and checking it all the time.


Is this perhaps related to the issue that many don't notice a difference between turning Dynamic Contrast on or off. I remember Gregory of Passion Cinema remarking that turning DC on showed no difference. This led to the speculation that these ALPD projectors were fixed at DC on.


----------



## m0j0

JackB said:


> Is this perhaps related to the issue that many don't notice a difference between turning Dynamic Contrast on or off. I remember Gregory of Passion Cinema remarking that turning DC on showed no difference. This led to the speculation that these ALPD projectors were fixed at DC on.


In my experience, If you turn on the option in the os menu to do picture optimization or whatever they call it, then you don’t notice much difference with dynamic contrast on or off. But, if you have that option off, then you turn dynamic contrast on or off, you should see a difference. If I do this while watching something like octonauts, it gets darker in a noticeable way, for example.


----------



## ProFragger

m0j0 said:


> I didn't measure myself, but according to Gregory's tests, it's 43.3 ms in game mode.


Thank you! Quite high, huh? Not a gaming projector then 😊.

P. S. I'm new here... Who is Gregory? 😊


----------



## ProFragger

zoomx2 said:


> My screen is no brand ALR Per Crystal 100” for $200 + shipping. I bought it together with T1 from Chris Chen in Alibaba. You can chat with her about the different sizes and needs.
> I was able to install Netflix apk in the T1 but the version requires mouse control. I can't able to use it with the original remote so I uninstalled it. I use DAZN, Youtube in T1 so lazy to use 2 remotes lol.


Thank you again! Do you mind sharing I could get in touch with that seller? Did the screen come with a frame to it? And do you happen to know the gain on the PET Crystal material?

Looks like I might have to go, Chromecast on the projector if we ever go that route 😊! Thank you again!


----------



## jeff9n

ProFragger said:


> Thanks for your experience, Jeff. Another resounding yes for these 😊. Did you have any issues with that much gain on the screen? Also, do we have a workaround for Netflix on these projectors yet? Thanks again.


Neither family, friends or I see any issue with the screen. Rather, we get an immersive theater viewing experience with very sharp pictures. Of course we can only enjoy it at night. But that is fine because this is meant to be a home theater.

I don't know any Netflix issue unless you are refering to HDR contents. My Xiaomi 1S 4K handles HDR poorly. With T1, you will need to use the newer firmware (unreleased) for better HDR/Dolby Vision handling. 

In my case, I just manually set the display type to 4K TV instead of 4K HDR TV for the Roku streaming stick.


----------



## Brajesh

ProFragger said:


> P. S. I'm new here... Who is Gregory? 😊


Here. _Use Google Translate._


----------



## donw

zoomx2 said:


> My screen is no brand ALR Per Crystal 100” for $200 + shipping. I bought it together with T1 from Chris Chen in Alibaba. You can chat with her about the different sizes and needs.
> I was able to install Netflix apk in the T1 but the version requires mouse control. I can't able to use it with the original remote so I uninstalled it. I use DAZN, Youtube in T1 so lazy to use 2 remotes lol.


Couldn't you plug in a usb air mouse receiver?


----------



## m0j0

ProFragger said:


> Thank you again! Do you mind sharing I could get in touch with that seller? Did the screen come with a frame to it? And do you happen to know the gain on the PET Crystal material?
> 
> Looks like I might have to go, Chromecast on the projector if we ever go that route 😊! Thank you again!


I believe the PET Crystal screen is .8 gain


----------



## ProFragger

jeff9n said:


> Neither family, friends or I see any issue with the screen. Rather, we get an immersive theater viewing experience with very sharp pictures. Of course we can only enjoy it at night. But that is fine because this is meant to be a home theater.
> 
> I don't know any Netflix issue unless you are refering to HDR contents. My Xiaomi 1S 4K handles HDR poorly. With T1, you will need to use the newer firmware (unreleased) for better HDR/Dolby Vision handling.
> 
> In my case, I just manually set the display type to 4K TV instead of 4K HDR TV for the Roku streaming stick.


Makes sense... Do you watch in complete darkness? I wonder how bad it would be in somewhat of a lit room, not sunlight, but overhead lighting. Not sure if I can exclusively watch in darkness haha!

I was told these Chinese projectors aren't Netflix certification and don't work out of box... Perhaps I heard it wrong...?


----------



## ProFragger

Brajesh said:


> Here. _Use Google Translate._


Thank you!


----------



## ProFragger

m0j0 said:


> I believe the PET Crystal screen is .8 gain


And you find it to be low enough, especially in a darker room? Thanks.


----------



## zoomx2

donw said:


> Couldn't you plug in a usb air mouse receiver?


If that’s the case, I just use my media device to watch Netflix. What’s the point to have more remote controls?


----------



## m0j0

ProFragger said:


> And you find it to be low enough, especially in a darker room? Thanks.


I find that it works great in my space, which does have some ambient light during the day, but no direct sunlight, and in the evening and night time, works great, even though we always have some overhead canned lights on from the adjacent room.


----------



## jeff9n

ProFragger said:


> Makes sense... Do you watch in complete darkness? I wonder how bad it would be in somewhat of a lit room, not sunlight, but overhead lighting. Not sure if I can exclusively watch in darkness haha!
> 
> I was told these Chinese projectors aren't Netflix certification and don't work out of box... Perhaps I heard it wrong...?


I turns off all ceiling lights. Once the movie starts, the room is no longer in darkness.

Do yourself a favor by getting a dedicated media player such as Roku. I wouldn't touch the projector built-in apps with a 10 foot pole.


----------



## zaselim

Guys sadly my order has been delayed because today they issued the shipping halt order in ShenZhen (from 14th to 20th). They already shipped the unit 3 days ago from their city(shishi). The route was shishi to shenzhen to my country.
Lets hope they ship it on 21st.
Did any of you faced the delay if yes then how much days it was delayed for you?


----------



## ProFragger

m0j0 said:


> I find that it works great in my space, which does have some ambient light during the day, but no direct sunlight, and in the evening and night time, works great, even though we always have some overhead canned lights on from the adjacent room.


Thanks again!


----------



## ProFragger

jeff9n said:


> I turns off all ceiling lights. Once the movie starts, the room is no longer in darkness.
> 
> Do yourself a favor by getting a dedicated media player such as Roku. I wouldn't touch the projector built-in apps with a 10 foot pole.


Yes, that's the plan... I have a CCwGTV ready to go, but it would've been nice to use the memory and hardware of this projector directly 😊...


----------



## ProFragger

For the US buyers... What other fees, costs you've seen after paying for shipping and tax on AliExpress or elsewhere? Trying to understand if there are import duties and if so... How much to expect?

I also saw Gregory's review... Learned more... Thanks for sharing that! Not sure if I'm ready for the constant tuning he mentioned without having any calibration tools or know-how... 😅..!


----------



## ProFragger

ProjectionHead said:


> View attachment 3252506
> 
> View attachment 3252507
> 
> 
> I’ve uploaded some pics comparing various UST surfaces before. For the money, I really like the new Spectra Projection product, it replaces Grandview (since Grandview can’t seem to ship products out of China anymore) and performs equitably to the more expensive Elite DarkUST.
> In the dark, a lot of them look similar but with a lot of light the lower gain option really had better black levels.
> The projector used here was the 2,200:1 contrast LG HU85LA for reference.
> Will be doing again with the T1 once I get a working unit and will measure the black floor on all surfaces (going to be adding the Silver Ticket and Stewart BlackHawk samples into the mix as well as the Elite CLR and CLR4 when I get those samples in)



Wow! Thanks for sharing these! The Spectra Projection and Ultra Dark are in the categories of their own! So head and shoulders on the black levels! What makes their material work so much better than everything else?... Wish the prices weren't so much higher... Woof! 😅


----------



## m0j0

ProFragger said:


> For the US buyers... What other fees, costs you've seen after paying for shipping and tax on AliExpress or elsewhere? Trying to understand if there are import duties and if so... How much to expect?
> 
> I also saw Gregory's review... Learned more... Thanks for sharing that! Not sure if I'm ready for the constant tuning he mentioned without having any calibration tools or know-how... 😅..!


I don't find that I am doing much of any tuning nowadays, other than the occasional switching the brightness from daytime to night, and also switching hdmi back and forth between 2.0 and 2.1 when the need arises.


----------



## Ricoflashback

zoomx2 said:


> If that’s the case, I just use my media device to watch Netflix. What’s the point to have more remote controls?


Because he who has the most remotes wins! Besides, what the heck am I going to do with my remote “Caddie?” I tried the Harmony remote for a couple of years but that quickly became ass over apple cart in terms of implementation. Most of the time, it’s my Comcast remote or my Nvidia Shield Pro remote being used anyway.


----------



## zoomx2

m0j0 said:


> I don't find that I am doing much of any tuning nowadays, other than the occasional switching the brightness from daytime to night, and also switching hdmi back and forth between 2.0 and 2.1 when the need arises.


I found your hand on review is informative than Gregory. I don’t know why ppl keep mention about him repeatedly. Same thing I toggle the brightness between day and night use that’s it.


----------



## rjyap

zoomx2 said:


> I found your hand on review is informative than Gregory. I don’t know why ppl keep mention about him repeatedly. Same thing I toggle the brightness between day and night use that’s it.


Gregory review is with measurement and some of his comments are valid such as contrast ratio and color gamut coverage. As his review is based on older firmware which run on v1.4, the HDR constant tweaking is no longer valid and red push in DV is not an issue on firmware v2.0.


----------



## ProjectionHead

ProFragger said:


> Wow! Thanks for sharing these! The Spectra Projection and Ultra Dark are in the categories of their own! So head and shoulders on the black levels! What makes their material work so much better than everything else?... Wish the prices weren't so much higher... Woof! 😅


There are multiple layers that comprise these surfaces and some manuafacyturers use more/better layers to affect the properties. The less expensive materials have less/lower quality and perform as such, but can hit a lower price point. Sometimes you don’t need the max ALR and the less expensive material is good enough.
There are also different grades of “ridges” and their sharpness/waviness that affect the pixel geometry and ultimately image sharpness.


----------



## ted_b

My T1 was initially scheduled for this coming Wednesday but just got an alert that it's on the truck for delivery this morning. So HK to Denver, CO, USA in 6 days. My Vividstorm isn't due for another week but maybe plug it in and get it on the network so I can look for a firmware update?


----------



## Directtv999

ProFragger said:


> For the US buyers... What other fees, costs you've seen after paying for shipping and tax on AliExpress or elsewhere? Trying to understand if there are import duties and if so... How much to expect?
> 
> I also saw Gregory's review... Learned more... Thanks for sharing that! Not sure if I'm ready for the constant tuning he mentioned without having any calibration tools or know-how... 😅..!


Just shipping +alibaba processing fee if you pay from CC


----------



## Directtv999

m0j0 said:


> I don't find that I am doing much of any tuning nowadays, other than the occasional switching the brightness from daytime to night, and also switching hdmi back and forth between 2.0 and 2.1 when the need arises.


I have the same hdmi issue whenever I power off the T1 and power back on ATV source will not detect I need to manually switch from 2.1 to 2.0 and back to 2.1 to make it work.


----------



## ted_b

When you guys specifically say "manually switch from 2.1 to 2.0 and back" do you mean literally manually (some button on unit) or is this a remote control function?


----------



## Directtv999

ted_b said:


> When you guys specifically say "manually switch from 2.1 to 2.0 and back" do you mean literally manually (some button on unit) or is this a remote control function?


Remote control.


----------



## zoomx2

Confirmed with [email protected] Firmware 2.0.0.2171 the main TV settings override the HDMI ports settings. I complain about it make no sense. So in main settings don’t select auto visual, in video and sound select your own custom setting.


----------



## zoomx2

Directtv999 said:


> Remote control.


Just curious I don’t have ATV, what’s HDR setting? SDR, HDR or Auto ? If you set on Auto does it connects after reboot? I put HDR on my media device it keeps giving me similar problem. Now in Auto it is fine.


----------



## Ricoflashback

ProjectionHead said:


> There are multiple layers that comprise these surfaces and some manuafacyturers use more/better layers to affect the properties. The less expensive materials have less/lower quality and perform as such, but can hit a lower price point. Sometimes you don’t need the max ALR and the less expensive material is good enough.
> There are also different grades of “ridges” and their sharpness/waviness that affect the pixel geometry and ultimately image sharpness.


I think the biggest conundrum for folks looking to buy a UST ALR screen (outside of price) is what do you sacrifice in terms of darker black levels versus brightness of image? One of the comparisons you had looked to dark to me - - which may be great in a high, ambient light room but not so much at night. The other aspect that is important to me is the angle of view since this will be a projector that is in the living room and it would be nice to have guests over to watch a movie or football game. And lastly - - the ease of putting it together and more importantly, how hard is it to hang/adjust? That's the major PITA with UST Projectors. Lord knows when they'll finally have lens memory and horizontal/vertical lens shift to make this a no brainer process. (Plus the capability to have a scope screen.)


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> I think the biggest conundrum for folks looking to buy a UST ALR screen (outside of price) is what do you sacrifice in terms of darker black levels versus brightness of image? One of the comparisons you had looked to dark to me - - which may be great in a high, ambient light room but not so much at night. The other aspect that is important to me is the angle of view since this will be a projector that is in the living room and it would be nice to have guests over to watch a movie or football game. And lastly - - the ease of putting it together and more importantly, how hard is it to hang/adjust? That's the major PITA with UST Projectors. Lord knows when they'll finally have lens memory and horizontal/vertical lens shift to make this a no brainer process. (Plus the capability to have a scope screen.)


I had more difficulty hanging the screen and adjusting my previous UST, the HiSense 100L5F. My new XYScreen PET Crystal screen was easier to put together and hang on the wall, and the keystone correction capabilities on the T1 are much better and easier to work with/adjust than the previous UST I have experience with. I actually didn't have to adjust keystone much, just wanted to pull in a little overspill here or there.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Ricoflashback said:


> I think the biggest conundrum for folks looking to buy a UST ALR screen (outside of price) is what do you sacrifice in terms of darker black levels versus brightness of image? One of the comparisons you had looked to dark to me - - which may be great in a high, ambient light room but not so much at night. The other aspect that is important to me is the angle of view since this will be a projector that is in the living room and it would be nice to have guests over to watch a movie or football game. And lastly - - the ease of putting it together and more importantly, how hard is it to hang/adjust? That's the major PITA with UST Projectors. Lord knows when they'll finally have lens memory and horizontal/vertical lens shift to make this a no brainer process. (Plus the capability to have a scope screen.)


In a dark room, even the lowest gain/best ALR screen will be more than bright enough for most. Once the UST Showcase is over and the dust settles, I'll be making some more comparisons on the various surfaces


----------



## Tanizhq

Anyone with a Nvidia Shield Pro 2019, what are the video setting you set it to? I watched a 4K DV TrueHD Atmos movie yesterday (Eternals) on Plex and there was slight stuttering in both the audio and video occasionaly


----------



## lattiboy

Tanizhq said:


> Anyone with a Nvidia Shield Pro 2019, what are the video setting you set it to? I watched a 4K DV TrueHD Atmos movie yesterday (Eternals) on Plex and there was slight stuttering in both the audio and video occasionaly


I hardly ever use the shield because the Plex app is such utter trash. Compared to Roku and ATV4K it feels glacially slow and I constantly had stuttering issues. The YouTube app is almost as bad and doesn’t support HDR or multiple profiles.

Kodi with a Plex plugin works okay on the shield, but still not as good as other streamers.


----------



## tovaxxx

I have been using Emby on the Shield for some time now and am very satisfied. Absolutely perfect.


----------



## rooterha

Looks like my Vividstorm + T1 will be delivered Thursday. Pretty good turnaround time!


----------



## Titi_78

Tanizhq said:


> Anyone with a Nvidia Shield Pro 2019, what are the video setting you set it to? I watched a 4K DV TrueHD Atmos movie yesterday (Eternals) on Plex and there was slight stuttering in both the audio and video occasionaly


I use 4k 60Hz hdr and DV ready
But i not use plex, but kodi nerds instead


Envoyé de mon iPad en utilisant Tapatalk


----------



## abaintor

Yes kodi nerds lets you play dolby vision rips (mkv) on nvidia shield. Plex don’t, only static hdr. 
Shield is the fastest device on the market as long as you take the shield pro version. Avoid the tube one


----------



## Tanizhq

abaintor said:


> Yes kodi nerds lets you play dolby vision rips (mkv) on nvidia shield. Plex don’t, only static hdr.
> Shield is the fastest device on the market as long as you take the shield pro version. Avoid the tube one


Wait what? I have been playing DV files on the Plex client with no issues


----------



## abaintor

Tanizhq said:


> Wait what? I have been playing DV files on the Plex client with no issues


Last time I checked (a year ago) it was not the case. Are you sure that this is the dv track and not hdr fallback ?


----------



## Tanizhq

abaintor said:


> Last time I checked (a year ago) it was not the case. Are you sure that this is the dv track and not hdr fallback ?


yes, For profiles 5, 7 and 8. The projector shifts into DV mode instantly too


----------



## whiskthecat

So at this point what is the consensus on buying now vs waiting for the "Global Version"?


----------



## m0j0

whiskthecat said:


> So at this point what is the consensus on buying now vs waiting for the "Global Version"?


Definitely buy now is my opinion.


----------



## gostocks

Has anyone received prompt to upgrade to official 2.x firmware? It's exactly mid-March after all


----------



## ProFragger

zoomx2 said:


> I found your hand on review is informative than Gregory. I don’t know why ppl keep mention about him repeatedly. Same thing I toggle the brightness between day and night use that’s it.


Where can I see this review?


----------



## ProFragger

ProjectionHead said:


> There are multiple layers that comprise these surfaces and some manuafacyturers use more/better layers to affect the properties. The less expensive materials have less/lower quality and perform as such, but can hit a lower price point. Sometimes you don’t need the max ALR and the less expensive material is good enough.
> There are also different grades of “ridges” and their sharpness/waviness that affect the pixel geometry and ultimately image sharpness.


Appreciate the knowledge. Really the two from Screen Projections and the Dark UST were in the league of their own! Wonder if they ever run sales haha!


----------



## ProFragger

Directtv999 said:


> Just shipping +alibaba processing fee if you pay from CC


How much is this processing fee? Thanks for the info!


----------



## gostocks

ProFragger said:


> Where can I see this review?





Test Fengmi Formovie T1 : l’avis de Grégory. – – Le Blog de PHC –


----------



## ProFragger

m0j0 said:


> Definitely buy now is my opinion.


Can you elaborate? Also is there even confirmation of a Global Version releasing? Thanks.


----------



## humax

ProFragger said:


> Can you elaborate? Also is there even confirmation of a Global Version releasing? Thanks.



Yes. There will most likely be a global version of this. That's the one I am waiting for anyway. We'll know for sure in about a month, when it is supposed to be announced/released. Android 11 is a given, so are multiple colored casings (red one for me, please). It remains to be seen, whether it will have 3D-support like the Fengmi manager mentioned, when interviewed. Fengmi support hinted it will also have more image adjustments, God knows what this means. If you live in the States, probably it is not worth waiting for, as it will cost with current info at least 650$ more than the Chinese version. I live in Europe and the Chinese version will cost me a minimal 400$ more than Americans buy it anyway, making the price gap with the international version smaller, hence I am waiting patiently for the time being.


----------



## doveph7

Hi everyone 
I'm starting gaming on my T1 and unfortunately can't find how to enable the Game mode.
I'm using an Xbox Series X and PS5 connected to a Denon x6700h plugged into T1 HDMI 1.
In standard mode I can definitely feel some input lag 
See below modes that are currently available to chose in Image Parameters menu. From Gregory's review it seems I'm missing a Display and a Game mode.
I'm running FengOS V1.4.6.1938 (it says it's still the latest).

Any advice on how to enable Game mode ? Thanks !


----------



## tovaxxx

You have to select the HDMI input first and then the picture settings.


----------



## doveph7

Seems so obvious 
Thanks for pointing that out


----------



## rjyap

gostocks said:


> Has anyone received prompt to upgrade to official 2.x firmware? It's exactly mid-March after all


Nope. Still no update. I wonder how those new unit from WuPro can be updated to v2.0.


----------



## gostocks

rjyap said:


> Nope. Still no update. I wonder how those new unit from WuPro can be updated to v2.0.


Probably beta build via special requests (read connections)


----------



## gostocks

m0j0 said:


> Definitely buy now is my opinion.


There's rumor from local distributor that they might increase the price soon due to supply issues. Or scared pressured tactic to make sale... 😂 I did notice that when I was mulling over Xiaomi vs fengmi that the Xiaomi increased by 60usd by time I decided to buy...


----------



## m0j0

ProFragger said:


> Can you elaborate? Also is there even confirmation of a Global Version releasing? Thanks.


The projector is a fantastic value for the performance today and though it has a few issues/quirks, they are all manageable, so I would recommend buying the current version vs. waiting for a global version which has no definite timeline available.


----------



## rooterha

Arrived - included a to US adapter for the power plug. I assume it's safe to use? Looks kinda cheap.

Updating to 2.0.0.2171 now. Will check focus with my existing 100" L9G screen since the Vividstorm hasn't come yet.


----------



## donw

rooterha said:


> Arrived - included a to US adapter for the power plug. I assume it's safe to use? Looks kinda cheap.
> 
> Updating to 2.0.0.2171 now. Will check focus with my existing 100" L9G screen since the Vividstorm hasn't come yet.


You're lucky, mine didn't come with the adapter; so I stole a cord from an old OTA TV receiver and had to whittle the end down to fit in the socket.


----------



## Tanizhq

donw said:


> You're lucky, mine didn't come with the adapter; so I stole a cord from an old OTA TV receiver and had to whittle the end down to fit in the socket.


Wouldn't admit that if you're trying to return it lol


----------



## donw

Tanizhq said:


> Wouldn't admit that if you're trying to return it lol


Well, then they should have included a USA cord or adapter if they were sending to the USA! I did read that others had to do this, so I knew it worked.


----------



## humax

rooterha said:


> Will check focus with my existing 100" L9G screen since the Vividstorm hasn't come yet.



Please, when your Vividstorm arrives, report whether you see any differences in focus and geometry between the two screens with the same projector settings. This should be an interesting experiment.


----------



## ProFragger

humax said:


> Yes. There will most likely be a global version of this. That's the one I am waiting for anyway. We'll know for sure in about a month, when it is supposed to be announced/released. Android 11 is a given, so are multiple colored casings (red one for me, please). It remains to be seen, whether it will have 3D-support like the Fengmi manager mentioned, when interviewed. Fengmi support hinted it will also have more image adjustments, God knows what this means. If you live in the States, probably it is not worth waiting for, as it will cost with current info at least 650$ more than the Chinese version. I live in Europe and the Chinese version will cost me a minimal 400$ more than Americans buy it anyway, making the price gap with the international version smaller, hence I am waiting patiently for the time being.


Thank you for the education. Is there a history of Fengmi doing this pattern? And where are they sold? What about warranty?

If it's truly Android 11, 3D, more adjustment settings and let's not forget the red casing 😉... I might cough up the $600 LOL!


----------



## rooterha

Tested out LLDV with Apple TV 4K and just absolutely blows away the l9g picture... super happy to have good black levels, contrast and tone mapping.


----------



## doveph7

tovaxxx said:


> You have to select the HDMI input first and then the picture settings.


I understood why I was missing this menu in the first place.

When gaming in a Dolby Vision enabled game (eg Cyberpunk on XBox Series X), the Image parameters disappears 
So no Game mode, and I feel that input lag in Dolby Vision is in the 200-300 ms range, far beyond the game mode (~50ms) and standard mode (~150ms) making it unplayable.

So that's a bummer, for now we can't game on the T1 with Dolby Vision.
I don't think that has already been reported to fengmi support in this thread.


----------



## gostocks

doveph7 said:


> I understood why I was missing this menu in the first place.
> 
> When gaming in a Dolby Vision enabled game (eg Cyberpunk on XBox Series X), the Image parameters disappears
> So no Game mode, and I feel that input lag in Dolby Vision is in the 200-300 ms range, far beyond the game mode (~50ms) and standard mode (~150ms) making it unplayable.
> 
> So that's a bummer, for now we can't game on the T1 with Dolby Vision.
> I don't think that has already been reported to fengmi support in this thread.
> 
> View attachment 3253563


I'm not sure they will even address it. Did you try HDR10 instead?


----------



## doveph7

gostocks said:


> I'm not sure they will even address it. Did you try HDR10 instead?


I'm not sure as I disabled Dolby Vision in the console menu.
So I presume it switched to HDR10 but I didn't have any logo displayed unlike when DV is enabled.
Is there a way to check which HDR version the projector is using ?


----------



## gostocks

doveph7 said:


> I'm not sure as I disabled Dolby Vision in the console menu.
> So I presume it switched to HDR10 but I didn't have any logo displayed unlike when DV is enabled.
> Is there a way to check which HDR version the projector is using ?


No it doesn't display HDR10 logo but you should see a difference if you play in SDR. Are you able to switch to game mode now?


----------



## m0j0

gostocks said:


> I'm not sure they will even address it. Did you try HDR10 instead?


If you use a Vertex2 to do LLDV you will have access to game mode, at least that is the case for me.


----------



## doveph7

gostocks said:


> No it doesn't display HDR10 logo but you should see a difference if you play in SDR. Are you able to switch to game mode now?


I didn't try in SDR but you can definitely see a difference when disabling DV.
Yes, as soon as you disable DV support you have access to game mode 

Apart from that, gaming on T1 is AWESOME


----------



## m0j0

Just setup a Zidoo Z9X on the T1 last night (connecting using LLDV via the Vertex2). Everything looks very promising so far. Going to do some more testing and tweaking later to see if I can get an even better picture, but so far it looks really, really good!

The Z9X is for playing local MKV's. I have connected a hard drive to it with a bunch of 4k MKV's, including some that are DV. It is not a streaming box, so still would use the Roku Ultra for that.


----------



## okvcos

m0j0 said:


> Just setup a Zidoo Z9X on the T1 last night (connecting using LLDV via the Vertex2). Everything looks very promising so far. Going to do some more testing and tweaking later to see if I can get an even better picture, but so far it looks really, really good!


I also use the same configuration. and I confirm that the colors with LLDV are really beautiful, thanks you have your advice .
Unfortunately the Z9X with the LLDV output activated does not allow to change the values of color, brightness and saturation.
If you find any tricks let us know, everything will be well received.

Gianni


----------



## m0j0

okvcos said:


> I also use the same configuration. and I confirm that the colors with LLDV are really beautiful, thanks you have your advice .
> Unfortunately the Z9X with the LLDV output activated does not allow to change the values of color, brightness and saturation.
> If you find any tricks let us know, everything will be well received.
> 
> Gianni


Do you also have a Vertex2 type device in your signal chain?


----------



## okvcos

m0j0 said:


> Do you also have a Vertex2 type device in your signal chain?


yes : Zidoo Z9X -> avr -> verter2 -> xiaomi C2


----------



## rooterha

okvcos said:


> yes : Zidoo Z9X -> avr -> verter2 -> xiaomi C2


That's odd. if it's using LLDV it should unlock all of the options. Have you tried going Zidoo -> Vertex 2 -> AVR -> C2 to see if that makes a difference?

Have you verified LLDV is working with any other device?

Are you seeing the Dolby Vision logo? With LLDV you shouldnt see it I believe.


----------



## m0j0

Do you have the option on the Vertex2 checked to use Custom HDR when input is LLDV? On the Z9X, do you have the option selected under the HDR tab of Display near the bottom that is labeled as LLDV 12 bit or something along those lines? It would be below all of the Dolby Vision VS10 options. I would try that if you don't have that selected. I have full controls on the T1 available to me, including saturation and brightness, contrast, etc.


----------



## okvcos

rooterha said:


> That's odd. if it's using LLDV it should unlock all of the options. Have you tried going Zidoo -> Vertex 2 -> AVR -> C2 to see if that makes a difference?
> 
> Have you verified LLDV is working with any other device?
> 
> Are you seeing the Dolby Vision logo? With LLDV you shouldnt see it I believe.


Sorry ..... but did I write that I don't see the VS10 logo? 
Did I write that it doesn't work? 
Did I write that I cannot activate the video output in LLDV? 
I think I wrote that on the ZIDOO when you activate the LLDV output, the options for increasing the color, brightness and saturation are not active.


----------



## rooterha

okvcos said:


> Sorry ..... but did I write that I don't see the VS10 logo?
> Did I write that it doesn't work?
> Did I write that I cannot activate the video output in LLDV?
> I think I wrote that on the ZIDOO when you activate the LLDV output, the options for increasing the color, brightness and saturation are not active.


Ok - my bad for trying to help. No interest in communicating with someone with a bad attitude. Was just asking to see because the options being disabled indicates that you're not using LLDV.

Have a good day buddy.


----------



## okvcos

on the ZIDOO when you activate the LLDV output, the options for increasing the color, brightness and saturation are not active , in the same ZIDOO


----------



## okvcos

rooterha said:


> Ok - my bad for trying to help. No interest in communicating with someone with a bad attitude. Was just asking to see because the options being disabled indicates that you're not using LLDV.
> 
> Have a good day buddy.


Sorry but what are you talking about? I didn't ask for help, I'm using LLDV and it works great. I just made a consideration that the ZIDOO locks out options when using LLDV output. And BUDDY there you are


----------



## m0j0

okvcos said:


> on the ZIDOO when you activate the LLDV output, the options for increasing the color, brightness and saturation are not active , in the same ZIDOO


Are you using one of the preset modes on the T1 like child mode or display mode, etc. ?


----------



## okvcos

m0j0 said:


> Do you have the option on the Vertex2 checked to use Custom HDR when input is LLDV? On the Z9X, do you have the option selected under the HDR tab of Display near the bottom that is labeled as LLDV ..........


Of course everything works correctly, my consideration was directed only to the ZIDOO, not to Xiaomi,
we did not understand each other


----------



## rooterha

okvcos said:


> Sorry but what are you talking about? I didn't ask for help, I'm using LLDV and it works great. I just made a consideration that the ZIDOO locks out options when using LLDV output. And BUDDY there you are


"If you find any tricks let us know, everything will be well received."

ok


----------



## okvcos

m0j0 said:


> Are you using one of the preset modes on the T1 like child mode or display mode, etc. ?


custom


----------



## m0j0

okvcos said:


> custom


Ok, didn't realize you had the C2. Not sure if it works the same as the T1 or not, but with LLDV enabled on the Z9X and the Vertex2 set to do Custom HDR when input is LLDV, I have full controls on the T1 for brightness, contrast, saturation, etc. On color, I'm not so sure. I think maybe the BT 2020-2 color space configured on the Vertex2 might be taking precedence over the color setup on the T1.


----------



## okvcos

m0j0 said:


> Ok, didn't realize you had the C2. Not sure if it works the same as the T1 or not, but with LLDV enabled on the Z9X and the Vertex2 set to do Custom HDR when input is LLDV, I have full controls on the T1 for brightness, contrast, saturation, etc. On color, I'm not so sure. I think maybe the BT 2020-2 color space configured on the Vertex2 might be taking precedence over the color setup on the T1.


I can't explain myself and make myself understood. The problem not on the C2 or T1. In the Zidoo it is the problem, if you activate LLDV, always on the Zidoo you do not have the control of the image selection (color, brightness and contrast) ... but only on the Zidoo


----------



## m0j0

okvcos said:


> I can't explain myself and make myself understood. The problem not on the C2 or T1. In the Zidoo it is the problem, if you activate LLDV, always on the Zidoo you do not have the control of the image selection (color, brightness and contrast) ... but only on the Zidoo


Ok, I think I'm tracking you now. I do know that there is an image on the Zidoo that you can tweak various aspects of for tuning purposes, but that is only if you are in HDR or some other mode, but not in LLDV as you said.


----------



## ted_b

So, I don't understand. @okvcos owns a Vertex2 and so does @m0j0. When m0j0 invoked LLDV on the Z9X and custom HDR on the Vertex2 he gets complete control. Why doesn't okvcos do that?


----------



## m0j0

ted_b said:


> So, I don't understand. @okvcos owns a Vertex2 and so does @m0j0. When m0j0 invoked LLDV on the Z9X and custom HDR on the Vertex2 he gets complete control. Why doesn't okvcos do that?


I think he would have controls available on his projector but not in the player, which is where I have controls available to me (on the T1), but apparently he was just calling out the inability to control from the player.


----------



## okvcos

okvcos said:


> I can't explain myself and make myself understood. The problem not on the C2 or T1. In the Zidoo it is the problem, if you activate LLDV, always on the Zidoo you do not have the control of the image selection (color, brightness and contrast) ... but only on the Zidoo





m0j0 said:


> I think he would have controls available on his projector but not in the player, which is where I have controls available to me (on the T1), but apparently he was just calling out the inability to control from the player.


you are right , correct
In the ZIDOO it not possible to control image, color, brightness and saturation if LLDV is activated


----------



## m0j0

Just watched Aladdin on the T1 and Z9X (using LLDV via the Vertex2), and all I can say is wow! What a riot of colors! That’s what I’m talking about! Fantastic!


----------



## lordvader

Hey all -
I'm considering this projector, but I'm a bit confused by this lldv chat. Since the projector already supports DV, why the need for LLDV? 

Sent from my M2101K7AG using Tapatalk


----------



## m0j0

lordvader said:


> Hey all -
> I'm considering this projector, but I'm a bit confused by this lldv chat. Since the projector already supports DV, why the need for LLDV?
> 
> Sent from my M2101K7AG using Tapatalk


Supporting it and being good at it don’t always go hand in hand. Right now, LLDV seems to do a better job tone mapping than native dv, at least from what I have seen so far. That may change as new firmware is released though.


----------



## eezrider

m0j0 said:


> Supporting it and being good at it don’t always go hand in hand. Right now, LLDV seems to do a better job tone mapping than native dv, at least from what I have seen so far. That may change as new firmware is released though.


@M0J0, I understand that the Roku Ultra supports a forced DV mode for streamed content. In that mode does it use LLDV?


----------



## Peter Leafshear

In my previous post I didn't understand the obvious discrepancies between the advertised distances of the T1 from the screen for a given image size, with respect to other projectors that have the same throw ratio.

This evening I drew all the distances in 3D and discovered the culprit: the distance A & B given for a 90" image size are false! All other dimensions give virtual 150", 120" and 100" rectangular 16/9 screens that fit nicely and inscribe well within the "pyramidal beam" thrown by the projector. But the 90" screen is off!
















With the help of the 3D drawing I positioned the 90" (2009×1138 mm) and a new 80" (I guessed 1170×1004 mm) at the correct places within the pyramid cone, which gives me these calculated results:


C: Projection size80-inch90-inchH/W: width × height (unit: mm)1170×10042009×1138A: Projection height range (unit: mm)
From the bottom of the laser projector
to the bottom of the projection screen288315B: Projection width range (unit: mm)
Laser projection tail to wall (screen)93148

Can someone over there who's making some tests with the T1 confirm these numbers for 80" and 90" screen sizes? I know that people want the largest possible image size most of the time, but due to size constraints in my current home (wall on the right, French door on the left) I will be forced to use an 80-inch screen. As I plan to build a dedicated TV furniture with motorized drawer, I must be sure of the numbers.


----------



## m0j0

eezrider said:


> @M0J0, I understand that the Roku Ultra supports a forced DV mode for streamed content. In that mode does it use LLDV?


I always get stumped by questions like this, so let me answer it based on what I am doing. I use the Vertex2 in conjunction with having the Roku Ultra configured to use always on DV, resulting in all content being sent to the T1 as LLDV. If you are not using the Vertex2, I don't think it would be LLDV, but again, I am no expert so I could be wrong.


----------



## Timothyyy

Peter Leafshear said:


> In my previous post I didn't understand the obvious discrepancies between the advertised distances of the T1 from the screen for a given image size, with respect to other projectors that have the same throw ratio.
> 
> This evening I drew all the distances in 3D and discovered the culprit: the distance A & B given for a 90" image size are false! All other dimensions give virtual 150", 120" and 100" rectangular 16/9 screens that fit nicely and inscribe well within the "pyramidal beam" thrown by the projector. But the 90" screen is off!
> View attachment 3253979
> View attachment 3253980
> 
> 
> With the help of the 3D drawing I positioned the 90" (2009×1138 mm) and a new 80" (I guessed 1170×1004 mm) at the correct places within the pyramid cone, which gives me these calculated results:
> 
> 
> C: Projection size80-inch90-inchH/W: width × height (unit: mm)1170×10042009×1138A: Projection height range (unit: mm)
> From the bottom of the laser projector
> to the bottom of the projection screen288315B: Projection width range (unit: mm)
> Laser projection tail to wall (screen)93148
> 
> Can someone over there who's making some tests with the T1 confirm these numbers for 80" and 90" screen sizes? I know that people want the largest possible image size most of the time, but due to size constraints in my current home (wall on the right, French door on the left) I will be forced to use an 80-inch screen. As I plan to build a dedicated TV furniture with motorized drawer, I must be sure of the numbers.


If the screen size going to be 80inch, why not buy 77inch oled tv?


----------



## gostocks

😂 I guess delay is good if they need more time...


----------



## gostocks

Peter Leafshear said:


> In my previous post I didn't understand the obvious discrepancies between the advertised distances of the T1 from the screen for a given image size, with respect to other projectors that have the same throw ratio.
> 
> This evening I drew all the distances in 3D and discovered the culprit: the distance A & B given for a 90" image size are false! All other dimensions give virtual 150", 120" and 100" rectangular 16/9 screens that fit nicely and inscribe well within the "pyramidal beam" thrown by the projector. But the 90" screen is off!
> View attachment 3253979
> View attachment 3253980
> 
> 
> With the help of the 3D drawing I positioned the 90" (2009×1138 mm) and a new 80" (I guessed 1170×1004 mm) at the correct places within the pyramid cone, which gives me these calculated results:
> 
> 
> C: Projection size80-inch90-inchH/W: width × height (unit: mm)1170×10042009×1138A: Projection height range (unit: mm)
> From the bottom of the laser projector
> to the bottom of the projection screen288315B: Projection width range (unit: mm)
> Laser projection tail to wall (screen)93148
> 
> Can someone over there who's making some tests with the T1 confirm these numbers for 80" and 90" screen sizes? I know that people want the largest possible image size most of the time, but due to size constraints in my current home (wall on the right, French door on the left) I will be forced to use an 80-inch screen. As I plan to build a dedicated TV furniture with motorized drawer, I must be sure of the numbers.


Motorized floor rising screen not an option to overcome your room configuration?

I have permanent flood lights that only allows me to project onto wall at about 80"-85" so I plan in future I plan to get vividstorm.


----------



## mirzank

m0j0 said:


> Supporting it and being good at it don’t always go hand in hand. Right now, LLDV seems to do a better job tone mapping than native dv, at least from what I have seen so far. That may change as new firmware is released though.


So since a lot of people are playing lldv content on the t1 via a vertex, and clearly the t1 improves with lldv, that means the t1 supports lldv? If this is the case, then why do we need the vertex 2? I understand that lldv basically uses the processing power of the source to push the signal, but does that mean something like the Apple TV doesn’t support lldv output which is why you need the vertex 2? 

And if Apple TV doesn’t support lldv then what’s the chance they will update it to support lldv ?


----------



## gostocks

mirzank said:


> And if Apple TV doesn’t support lldv then what’s the chance they will update it to support lldv ?


We are talking about the same Apple company right? LoL. No profits no change.

So never? ☺😉


----------



## ted_b

gostocks said:


> We are talking about the same Apple company right? LoL. No profits no change.
> 
> So never? ☺😉


?? Who says ATV4K doesn't support LLDV? It does.


----------



## rooterha

Yeah ATV4k supports LLDV for sure. That's what I'm using (and used on the L9G and with VideoProcessor)

But I do see what you guys are saying, they just need an option to enable LLDV instead so you don't need a Vertex.


----------



## mirzank

rooterha said:


> Yeah ATV4k supports LLDV for sure. That's what I'm using (and used on the L9G and with VideoProcessor)
> 
> But I do see what you guys are saying, they just need an option to enable LLDV instead so you don't need a Vertex.


Based on some Googling I’ve done it seems Apple TV does have lldv. If it’s mentioned then it must output it. But are you saying it’s not enabled ? Or guessing it may not be enabled? Really very curious. I’m sure people aren’t spending 500$ on a vertex for no reason, so I’m sure there’s something I’m missing.

edit: here’s a thread mentioning Apple TV 4K and lldv









LLDV vs Dolby Vision


I'm struggling to find what devices support LLDV, or how it's different that regular Dolby Vision. Is there a list somewhere? I'm hoping Chromecast would, but I can't seem to confirm.




www.avsforum.com


----------



## m0j0

Here's a couple recent pics on the T1


----------



## Peter Leafshear

Timothyyy said:


> If the screen size going to be 80inch, why not buy 77inch oled tv?


Yeah, but latest LG 77" OLED G2 (with EX panel) won't come cheap… Even more expensive than the 2021 version. According to _What Hi-Fi?_ MSRP fo the OLED77G2 is US$6650  
Actually on second thought, I could fit a 90" screen instead of 80" if I move a badly placed wall switch further away 
Also, I fell in love with UST projectors ^^


----------



## captainzgreg

Hey everyone, I've been reading this topic with some attention. That firmware update seems to have knocked the UST game over  .

So, I'm on the lookout for a new projector. My home theater nook is made of white walls and ceilings, 2.8m (9.2 feet) wide (that means it can accommodate a 120" 16:9 screen), and I'd be seated at a 3m (10feet) distance. Not so much controls on the lights, but I'd be shutting them down and closing curtains when turning the VP on.

Main usage is films (a lot of scifi) and series, some multiplayer gaming on Nintendo Switch with lights on and a few geforce now gaming.
My players are an ATV4k and an NVidia Shield pro from 2015 (this thing is undying) that streams rips on my Synology NAS through Kodi. No Blu ray player (for the moment). I'd probably buy a CLR tensionned dropdown screen later.

My budget is 2.5k€, and I was originally leaning towards the upcoming BenQ X3000i (4LED 0.65 DMD DLP) or OptomaUHZ50 : a long throw works well for me cause I'll be building shelves in my dry wall, and didn't want a piece of furniture too deep to provide necessary distance for an 110" screen.

But, as I said, I read this topic. And the picture quality (the blacks, the colors, the sharpness) on this T1 seem crazy good with an ALR screen, even on a white wall they might be better than what a DLP can give...

So here comes my question : is that Fengmi T1 usable in daytime or with ambient lights on/dimmed for switch multiplaying (faded blacks are ok) ? For non dolby vision content, does it require a lot of tweaking with settings or is the picture quality consistent since that firmware update ?
Any recommendation for budget friendly motorized dropdown CLR screens ? Also, which gain would you have in such a configuration ?

Finally, what is the consensus about sources to get the best PQ ?

Thanks a lot


----------



## eezrider

m0j0 said:


> Here's a couple recent pics on the T1
> 
> View attachment 3254093
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254094
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254095
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254096
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254097
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> View attachment 3254102
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254104
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254105
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254106
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254107


Mmm, terrible blue cast on the skin tones on that last one. I think we should all send our T1s back and buy something else.


----------



## rooterha

m0j0 said:


> Here's a couple recent pics on the T1
> 
> View attachment 3254093
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254094
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254095
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254096
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254097
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254098
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> 
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> 
> View attachment 3254100
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> 
> View attachment 3254101
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254102
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254104
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254105
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254106
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254107


Would you mind sharing your HDR & DV tab settings on Vertex? And your settings on the T1? I think im pretty close but yours looks a little better.


----------



## Ricoflashback

eezrider said:


> Mmm, terrible blue cast on the skin tones on that last one. I think we should all send our T1s back and buy something else.


Yes - you definitely need a more expensive projector with haze, mist, fog and gas in addition to washed out colors and gray "blacks." Lots of options in that market.


----------



## m0j0

rooterha said:


> Would you mind sharing your HDR & DV tab settings on Vertex? And your settings on the T1? I think im pretty close but yours looks a little better.


EDIT: Performed a calibration using Spears & Munsil disc. See here for updated info on the calibration results for the T1:








Formovie Fengmi T1


Try unplug the cable and plug in again. Sometimes it doesn’t detect the signal.




www.avsforum.com





Sure can. Here you go:



















T1 Settings:

Brightness Mode: Office

Image Parameters:

Roku Ultra
Brightness Mode: Office
Brightness: 41
Contrast: 96
Saturation: 37
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 49
Color: Custom (Red: 985, Green: 1024, Blue: 950)
Dynamic Contrast: Off

(These values on the Roku seem to work great with 1080p content:
Brightness: 26
Contrast: 99
all other settings same as above)


Zidoo Z9X (not for native DV)
Brightness Mode: Office
Brightness: 46
Contrast: 100
Saturation: 37
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 49
Color: Custom (Red: 985, Green: 1024, Blue: 950)
Dynamic Contrast: Off

Zidoo Z9X (For native DV)
Brightness Mode: Office
Brightness: 41
Contrast: 85
Saturation: 37
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 49
Color: Custom (Red: 985, Green: 1024, Blue: 950)
Dynamic Contrast: Off

(no longer using this device so these are just the last settings I was using)
ATV4K
Custom:
Brightness: 48
Contrast: 67
Saturation: 55
Sharpness: 50
Tone: 50
Color: Custom (Red: 985, Green: 1024, Blue: 950)
Dynamic Contrast: Off

Also, here are the relevant settings that work well with the Vertex2 for the Roku and Z9X:




































































































Edit: I changed the Z9X to auto lock 3840x2160p at 60Hz.


----------



## abaintor

Hi,

Again all devices supporting dolby Vision do it while outputting lldv. 
Only old uhd bluray players send encoded dolby vision stream that has to be decoded by your tv. 
So this is not relevant. The hdfury vertex benefit is for tricking the nits range to stick better to the T1 capabilities. In that way you could get less burned bright picture or too dark scenes compared to the native dv rendering of the T1 (which is not used in that case)
Also it unlocks the picture settings so this is a real benefit too as wells as motion compensation. 

Unless fengmi release a better firmware but I doubt that.


----------



## mirzank

abaintor said:


> Hi,
> 
> Again all devices supporting dolby Vision do it while outputting lldv.
> Only old uhd bluray players send encoded dolby vision stream that has to be decoded by your tv.
> So this is not relevant. The hdfury vertex benefit is for tricking the nits range to stick better to the T1 capabilities. In that way you could get less burned bright picture or too dark scenes compared to the native dv rendering of the T1 (which is not used in that case)
> Also it unlocks the picture settings so this is a real benefit too as wells as motion compensation.
> 
> Unless fengmi release a better firmware but I doubt that.


Ah okay it makes sense. I thought the whole benefit of dv/lldv is that any dv display/tv can display it accurately. But I guess what you’re saying is that in reality that’s not the case ? So that if you have a vertex you can select a different rendering that better suits the true colours the t1 shows. Personally I wouldn’t want the complexity of the vertex but good to know this.


----------



## m0j0

mirzank said:


> Ah okay it makes sense. I thought the whole benefit of dv/lldv is that any dv display/tv can display it accurately. But I guess what you’re saying is that in reality that’s not the case ? So that if you have a vertex you can select a different rendering that better suits the true colours the t1 shows. Personally I wouldn’t want the complexity of the vertex but good to know this.


Vertex is not complex by any means. You login to it via a GUI and put in the same settings that someone else has already provided and you're done.


----------



## abaintor

Actually any tv or projector supporting hdr but not dolby vision could support lldv. But the hdmi negociation (edid info) would fail because the advertised format is refused by the tv. This is where hdfury happens while advertising classic hdr although it sends lldv. So lldv is just a label for a already decoded dolby vision stream. 
This is how Sony made its old hdr TVs compatible with dolby vision by letting lldv label getting through through a firmware update
And I agree hdfury is easy to set up. Just the price which is insanely high


----------



## rooterha

m0j0 said:


> Sure can. Here you go:
> 
> View attachment 3254139
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254138
> 
> 
> T1 Settings:
> 
> Brightness Mode: Office
> 
> Image Parameters:
> 
> ATV4K
> Custom:
> Brightness: 48
> Contrast: 67
> Saturation: 55
> Sharpness: 50
> Tone: 50
> Color: Custom (Red: 985, Green: 1024, Blue: 950)
> Dynamic Contrast: Off
> 
> Roku Ultra
> Custom:
> Brightness: 50
> Contrast: 95
> Saturation: 52
> Sharpness: 55
> Tone: 50
> Color: Custom (Red: 985, Green: 1024, Blue: 950)
> Dynamic Contrast: Off
> 
> Zidoo Z9X
> Custom:
> Brightness: 48
> Contrast: 96
> Saturation: 48
> Sharpness: 55
> Tone: 48
> Color: Custom (Red 985, Green 1024, Blue: 950)
> Dynamic Contrast: Off
> 
> Also, here are the relevant settings that work well with the Vertex2 for the Roku and Z9X:
> 
> View attachment 3254160
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254161
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254162
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254163
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254164
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254165
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254166
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254167
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254168
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254169
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254170


Awesome - thank you!


----------



## Timothyyy

Peter Leafshear said:


> Yeah, but latest LG 77" OLED G2 (with EX panel) won't come cheap… Even more expensive than the 2021 version. According to _What Hi-Fi?_ MSRP fo the OLED77G2 is US$6650
> Actually on second thought, I could fit a 90" screen instead of 80" if I move a badly placed wall switch further away
> Also, I fell in love with UST projectors ^^


Maybe you should consider C2, just as good as G2 but much cheaper. In Canada C1 77inch is 3000usd. I mean UST is great but it has its limitations. With all due respect, Many of the good review from this form is not objective. They tend to ignore one thing and magnify another thing. It's a big purchase I just hope you think it through. And to be clear I love everyone posting their information and opinion to help other buyers.


----------



## rooterha

m0j0 said:


> Sure can. Here you go:
> 
> View attachment 3254139
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254138
> 
> 
> T1 Settings:
> 
> Brightness Mode: Office
> 
> Image Parameters:
> 
> ATV4K
> Custom:
> Brightness: 48
> Contrast: 67
> Saturation: 55
> Sharpness: 50
> Tone: 50
> Color: Custom (Red: 985, Green: 1024, Blue: 950)
> Dynamic Contrast: Off
> 
> Roku Ultra
> Custom:
> Brightness: 50
> Contrast: 95
> Saturation: 52
> Sharpness: 55
> Tone: 50
> Color: Custom (Red: 985, Green: 1024, Blue: 950)
> Dynamic Contrast: Off
> 
> Zidoo Z9X
> Custom:
> Brightness: 48
> Contrast: 96
> Saturation: 48
> Sharpness: 55
> Tone: 48
> Color: Custom (Red 985, Green 1024, Blue: 950)
> Dynamic Contrast: Off
> 
> Also, here are the relevant settings that work well with the Vertex2 for the Roku and Z9X:
> 
> View attachment 3254160
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254161
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254162
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254163
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254164
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254165
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254166
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254167
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254168
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254169
> 
> 
> View attachment 3254170


Do you still like the Roku picture best? Or are they fairly similar on ATV and Roku?


----------



## m0j0

rooterha said:


> Do you still like the Roku picture best? Or are they fairly similar on ATV and Roku?


Yes, I do still like the Roku picture best. I have since removed the ATV4K from my T1 and am rolling with the Roku plus Z9X currently.


----------



## rooterha

m0j0 said:


> Yes, I do still like the Roku picture best. I have since removed the ATV4K from my T1 and am rolling with the Roku plus Z9X currently.


Cool just wondering - tested the Roku Ultra and it looked better to my eyes too.


----------



## rooterha

Timothyyy said:


> Maybe you should consider C2, just as good as G2 but much cheaper. In Canada C1 77inch is 3000usd. I mean UST is great but it has its limitations. With all due respect, Many of the good review from this form is not objective. They tend to ignore one thing and magnify another thing. It's a big purchase I just hope you think it through. And to be clear I love everyone posting their information and opinion to help other buyers.


Im pretty sure almost everybody here would go for a 77" OLED if it was between that and an 80" screen. Most of us are 100"+ which is a big difference.


----------



## zoomx2

I'm very happy with T1 great value. Who's knows 1 day I decided to go 120” or bigger without paying for a new unit. The light emitted from OLED hurts my eyes too.


----------



## lattiboy

I have a HD Fury Arcana which does look a bit better with some DV content, so I fully agree it can be a worthwhile investment. I didn’t find the enhancements to be so much better and it messed up my eARC connection, so I’ll probably end up buying the Vertex 2 just to see it myself. 

Thanks to @m0j0 for that super comprehensive settings list! We should pin that to the thread.

PS I just want to assure people that plain old DV on the T1 (with the upcoming update) is really, really good. Undoubtedly it could be better, but I just want to draw the distinction between “required” and “enhances”. For the $$$ nothing on the planet touches the T1 with or without an HD Fury.


----------



## humax

rooterha said:


> Im pretty sure almost everybody here would go for a 77" OLED if it was between that and an 80" screen. Most of us are 100"+ which is a big difference.



The problem with 77", regardless of image quality, is pretty soon you 'll want to go bigger. You 'll be less inclined to do that with a wall-mounted tv, whereas with UST you just move the unit further back and get a new ALR. 83" OLED is too expensive for the time being. There are 86"-98" LCDs now available at a reasonable price, but image quality is compromised at these inches and they make a pretty good target for your kids. My nephew recently threw one of his toys at my 75" 4K lcd and now the tv is a write-off and for me it is 2000$ down the drain. Replacing panels is basically not an option, you just get a new tv and I am afraid to do that in my small apartment, in case it accidentally happens again. UST market will sky-rocket in the next few years and pretty soon they will become the nr.1 projector choice. Room-budget constraints are secondary. RGB models already have better color than any tv and now with ALPD units we have decent contrast too. If you add a more user friendly UI and an embedded tv tuner, you have a fully functional laser tv right now without the need of a flat panel anymore.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

So after the beta firmware I still feel like some content is too dark, and I have a new issue where my projector seems to get "stuck" on a wallpaper screen and no buttons respond except the power button.
I normally have no issue as I have it auto boot to my source, but if I hit the home button to go change any settings I might get stuck there.

I was really hoping the new tone mapping fixed things being too dark for me, if I turn off all the lights its viewable but some things really push the limit such as some scenes from the Witcher, The Haunting of Hill House, and other movies with very dark scenes. 

Still very happy with everything as a whole, but considering more and more maybe getting a HDFury product if I will get more performance/benefit from it.

Seems the Vertex 2 is the way to go? I thought the Arcana could do everything we need, and the VRROOM is probably overkill?


----------



## ProFragger

General question for the aficionados here. For someone who is not as passionate, experienced and learned as you guys are about HDR formats and fine tuning signals and PQ, as well as someone trying to put together their first home theater with a UST or any projector in their lives... Is T1 the wrong option?

Don't get me wrong, I too, would love the large image of 100"+ with contrast and color closest to OLED, but am apprehensive that I won't be able to keep up with all the equipment needed, in terms of cost and skills to make the images as good as @m0j0's for example.

To give you an idea of how little I know... I have no idea what LLDV is, what a Vertex2 is, and so many other things referenced here.

Forgive my lack of knowledge, I'm trying to lurk and learn, but if I'm bothering you experts, please let me know I'll stop posting in this thread. Thank you all!


----------



## humax

ProFragger said:


> Is T1 the wrong option?


No. It is the right choice for the money, regardless of projection type. There are other more user friendly DLP units out there, but they do not have its contrast and general image quality. You can wait for the android version for easier use. Otherwise, just buy an 0.6 ALR screen and plug in a DTV tuner and you are good to go.


----------



## ProFragger

humax said:


> No. It is the right choice for the money, regardless of projection type. There are other more user friendly DLP units out there, but they do not have its contrast and general image quality. You can wait for the android version for easier use. Otherwise, just buy an 0.6 ALR screen and plug in a DTV tuner and you are good to go.


Thank you for the encouraging answer. Some follow up questions:

1. What do you mean the Android version and how will it be easier? Isn't the issue that T1 is blocking the advance PQ settings?

2. Can you recommend economical ALR options options? I've not seen the PET Crystals being less than 1 gain or up.

3. What do you mean a DTV tuner? Aren't those digital TV tuners for receiving digital TV channels?

Thank you again.


----------



## humax

ProFragger said:


> Thank you for the encouraging answer. Some follow up questions:
> 
> 1. What do you mean the Android version and how will it be easier? Isn't the issue that T1 is blocking the advance PQ settings?
> 
> 2. Can you recommend economical ALR options options? I've not seen the PET Crystals being less than 1 gain or up.
> 
> 3. What do you mean a DTV tuner? Aren't those digital TV tuners for receiving digital TV channels?
> 
> Thank you again.



1. I am only saying that most people are quite familiar with the use of android OS. Right now, the Fengmi OS is a restricted android variant full of stuff for the Chinese market.

2. Pet Crystals are 0.8-0.9 gain, but more expensive. If you want really cheap, you can try the Pet Grid Fengmi.

FENGMI 100-Inch Anti-light Projector Black Screen 16:9 Soft Screen 4K HD Home Th Sale - Banggood USA-arrival notice 

3. In case you want to use it like a regular tv (sports etc).


----------



## m0j0

ViciousXUSMC said:


> So after the beta firmware I still feel like some content is too dark, and I have a new issue where my projector seems to get "stuck" on a wallpaper screen and no buttons respond except the power button.
> I normally have no issue as I have it auto boot to my source, but if I hit the home button to go change any settings I might get stuck there.
> 
> I was really hoping the new tone mapping fixed things being too dark for me, if I turn off all the lights its viewable but some things really push the limit such as some scenes from the Witcher, The Haunting of Hill House, and other movies with very dark scenes.
> 
> Still very happy with everything as a whole, but considering more and more maybe getting a HDFury product if I will get more performance/benefit from it.
> 
> Seems the Vertex 2 is the way to go? I thought the Arcana could do everything we need, and the VRROOM is probably overkill?


Yes, I would recommend you invest in an HDFury Vertex2! You will be very happy with the results!


----------



## ProFragger

humax said:


> 1. I am only saying that most people are quite familiar with the use of android OS. Right now, the Fengmi OS is a restricted android variant full of stuff for the Chinese market.
> 
> 2. Pet Crystals are 0.8-0.9 gain, but more expensive. If you want really cheap, you can try the Pet Grid Fengmi.
> 
> FENGMI 100-Inch Anti-light Projector Black Screen 16:9 Soft Screen 4K HD Home Th Sale - Banggood USA-arrival notice
> 
> 3. In case you want to use it like a regular tv (sports etc).


Thank you again:

1. Interface wouldn't bother me, the FengOS, but I was talking about the need to tune the T1, especially with other devices and external stuff people were talking about like LLDV, Vertex2... Never heard of those things. Also I thought you were implying that Fengmi would do an Official ATV with Chromecast and all, which would be very nice!

2. Thank you for the suggestion. I'll keep looking, I think I need at least a 120". What options do you know of at 0.6 gain? I just know of the Cinema screen that comes packaged in the L9G.

3. Got it, thank you. I use IPTV for my TV needs now.


----------



## m0j0

ProFragger said:


> General question for the aficionados here. For someone who is not as passionate, experienced and learned as you guys are about HDR formats and fine tuning signals and PQ, as well as someone trying to put together their first home theater with a UST or any projector in their lives... Is T1 the wrong option?
> 
> Don't get me wrong, I too, would love the large image of 100"+ with contrast and color closest to OLED, but am apprehensive that I won't be able to keep up with all the equipment needed, in terms of cost and skills to make the images as good as @m0j0's for example.
> 
> To give you an idea of how little I know... I have no idea what LLDV is, what a Vertex2 is, and so many other things referenced here.
> 
> Forgive my lack of knowledge, I'm trying to lurk and learn, but if I'm bothering you experts, please let me know I'll stop posting in this thread. Thank you all!


We all have to start somewhere, and honestly, AVSForum is a lot of times the deep end of the pool in terms of AV technology, so don't feel bad if you don't understand or are familiar with everything referenced. You just have to kind of pick and choose your rabbit holes and then dig in and learn at your own pace.

The main thing you need to understand about projectors in general is that they don't have the same kind of brightness as most OLED/QLED/LED TV's. This particularly is a problem with certain types of advanced content like HDR/DV, etc. Most 4k blu rays are HDR, which contains both a wide color gamut (a lot of colors) and High Dynamic Range (very dark to very bright elements), and are typically mastered at 1,000 nits, and sometimes higher like 4,000 nits. TV's that have high nits capabilities have no problem showing these really high peak brightness type scenes, but projectors typically struggle since they don't have that capability natively to hit those really high peak nits values. This is where tone mapping comes in. With a tone mapped picture, the 1,000 nit peak is remapped to the maximum that your projector can do, let's say it's 300 nits, and then so forth and so on down the line. The problem is finding something that can do this tone mapping for you. That's where LLDV and the Vertex2 kind of come in. They allow you to use the player to perform this dynamic tone mapping based on the metadata in the source material (this is basically the advantage of DV, which is dynamic based on metadata, over HDR, which is static). What happens with LLDV is not exactly dynamic tone mapping but it works in a similar way. The Vertex2 allows you to send a EDID signal to your player to tell it that the projector supports LLDV/DV, and therefore your player can send it an LLDV/DV signal. LLDV is low latency DV. It is something Sony came up with awhile back to work around some issues they had and basically allowed them to offload the processing of the DV signal to the player. All you need to really understand is that projectors can benefit from tone mapping and leveraging something like LLDV helps to achieve a very bright and colorful image on any projector. Besides the Vertex2, you need a player that can "force" LLDV/DV. The Shield can play native DV but can't force all content to LLDV/DV. The Apple TV 4k can force DV, as well as the Roku Ultra (newest version), the Zidoo Z9X, and the Sony X700/X800 blu ray players can as well. There are others too like Zappiti Neo (or similar with the newest chipsets that support DV), these are just a few I know of for sure.


----------



## ProFragger

m0j0 said:


> We all have to start somewhere, and honestly, AVSForum is a lot of times the deep end of the pool in terms of AV technology, so don't feel bad if you don't understand or are familiar with everything referenced. You just have to kind of pick and choose your rabbit holes and then dig in and learn at your own pace.
> 
> The main thing you need to understand about projectors in general is that they don't have the same kind of brightness as most OLED/QLED/LED TV's. This particularly is a problem with certain types of advanced content like HDR/DV, etc. Most 4k blu rays are HDR, which contains both a wide color gamut (a lot of colors) and High Dynamic Range (very dark to very bright elements), and are typically mastered at 1,000 nits, and sometimes higher like 4,000 nits. TV's that have high nits capabilities have no problem showing these really high peak brightness type scenes, but projectors typically struggle since they don't have that capability natively to hit those really high peak nits values. This is where tone mapping comes in. With a tone mapped picture, the 1,000 nit peak is remapped to the maximum that your projector can do, let's say it's 300 nits, and then so forth and so on down the line. The problem is finding something that can do this tone mapping for you. That's where LLDV and the Vertex2 kind of come in. They allow you to use the player to perform this dynamic tone mapping based on the metadata in the source material (this is basically the advantage of DV, which is dynamic based on metadata, over HDR, which is static). What happens with LLDV is not exactly dynamic tone mapping but it works in a similar way. The Vertex2 allows you to send a EDID signal to your player to tell it that the projector supports LLDV/DV, and therefore your player can send it an LLDV/DV signal. LLDV is low latency DV. It is something Sony came up with awhile back to work around some issues they had and basically allowed them to offload the processing of the DV signal to the player. All you need to really understand is that projectors can benefit from tone mapping and leveraging something like LLDV helps to achieve a very bright and colorful image on any projector. Besides the Vertex2, you need a player that can "force" LLDV/DV. The Shield can play native DV but can't force all content to LLDV/DV. The Apple TV 4k can force DV, as well as the Roku Ultra (newest version), the Zidoo Z9X, and the Sony X700/X800 blu ray players can as well. There are others too like Zappiti Neo (or similar with the newest chipsets that support DV), these are just a few I know of for sure.


What a wonderful explanation! Thank you so much, @m0j0! In this thread alone, you're an asset to this community.

Like I said earlier... I'm nowhere near AV aficionados that you guys are, nor are my eyes trained for it. For example, I cannot remember the last time I used a DVD or BluRay player! My extent of content watching would be, movies via Netflix, Disney+, HBO Max and like 480p, 720p live channel streams. And my primary Streamer, "player" for consuming these would be the Google Chromecast. Do you know if Google Chromecast can force LLDV signal?

With this set up above, you would still recommend a HDFury Vertex2? Or I saw something called Arcana for half the price?

I love and am completely sold on people's suggestion about the best value T1 gives at this price for the contrast and colors. But sounds like to really score that breathtaking picture we need to sub it with an ALR with a 0.6 gain or less + HDFury equipment + Roku Ultra or Shiele Pro or Apple TV 4K? Am I correct in my understanding?

Thank you again for your wonderful post and patience with me. Last question, what is the peak nits the T1 can reach for its brightness?


----------



## m0j0

ProFragger said:


> What a wonderful explanation! Thank you so much, @m0j0! In this thread alone, you're an asset to this community.
> 
> Like I said earlier... I'm nowhere near AV aficionados that you guys are, nor are my eyes trained for it. For example, I cannot remember the last time I used a DVD or BluRay player! My extent of content watching would be, movies via Netflix, Disney+, HBO Max and like 480p, 720p live channel streams. And my primary Streamer, "player" for consuming these would be the Google Chromecast. Do you know if Google Chromecast can force LLDV signal?
> 
> With this set up above, you would still recommend a HDFury Vertex2? Or I saw something called Arcana for half the price?
> 
> I love and am completely sold on people's suggestion about the best value T1 gives at this price for the contrast and colors. But sounds like to really score that breathtaking picture we need to sub it with an ALR with a 0.6 gain or less + HDFury equipment + Roku Ultra or Shiele Pro or Apple TV 4K? Am I correct in my understanding?
> 
> Thank you again for your wonderful post and patience with me. Last question, what is the peak nits the T1 can reach for its brightness?


You're asking great questions!

I don't think the Chromecast would be much different than the Shield, both being based on Google TV. You would best be served by spending the 100 bucks and buying a Roku Ultra in my opinion. That plus the Vertex2 would allow you to force everything to LLDV while still giving you all the extra controls available on the T1.

As for peak nits, that's a bit trickier question to answer. The projector is rated at 2,800 lumens, but, depending on the mode and brightness selected, could actually be anywhere from 1,400 to 2,300 lumens, and then you have to convert that to an approximate nits value. I don't know the exact math for that, but for general intents and purposes, lets say somewhere between 400 and 800 nits. However, when setting the maximum nits value on the Vertex2, you can go a bit lower than maximum nits and it will tone map a bit more aggressively. That is where I am at, with a very low 110 nits value configured in the Vertex2.


----------



## Sunbox2408

Has another T1 owner noticed these lines at the bottom in the shape of a V (pic below).

I am using XY pet crystal screen though I do not see these lines or any cease in screen fabric when projector is off.

It isn't visible when normal movie/netflix content is on but clearly visible in grey and white screens.
Any ideas / views to help correct this will be greatly appreciated.


----------



## humax

Sunbox2408 said:


> Has another T1 owner noticed these lines at the bottom in the shape of a V (pic below).




First thought is that your screen is not properly tensioned at this lower part, even though you cannot see any crease/ripple. You can try resetting the springs for better tension. I suppose the horizontal yellow lines are from the camera?


----------



## ProFragger

m0j0 said:


> You're asking great questions!
> 
> I don't think the Chromecast would be much different than the Shield, both being based on Google TV. You would best be served by spending the 100 bucks and buying a Roku Ultra in my opinion. That plus the Vertex2 would allow you to force everything to LLDV while still giving you all the extra controls available on the T1.
> 
> As for peak nits, that's a bit trickier question to answer. The projector is rated at 2,800 lumens, but, depending on the mode and brightness selected, could actually be anywhere from 1,400 to 2,300 lumens, and then you have to convert that to an approximate nits value. I don't know the exact math for that, but for general intents and purposes, lets say somewhere between 400 and 800 nits. However, when setting the maximum nits value on the Vertex2, you can go a bit lower than maximum nits and it will tone map a bit more aggressively. That is where I am at, with a very low 110 nits value configured in the Vertex2.


Thank you so much @m0j0 for your encouragement and encouraging responses.

If you think Chromecast would support the LLDV, why do you think I should get the Roku Ultra?

At 2300 lumens looks like that's just under 700 nits of peak brightness. Out of curiosity, I went to get a frame or reference and looks like last year's LG C1 OLED can hit about 800 nits, while my QLED Samsung 75 Q90R from 2019, I believe is a whopping 1600 nits, which is why I'm grateful I got it over the OLED in my bight living room. However, for this theater set up 700 nits would be quite adequate from the T1.

I also looked into some ALR screens again and looks like the XY PET or the Vava 120" ALR can get 0.6 gain screens at about sub $700, which is quite affordable. My only problem now is that I cannot unsee that Screen Projections and DarkUST screens that were posted here... Albeit at 2x, 3x+ costs! Do you have thoughts on this? Why those screens look so much better with their black levels?


----------



## aerodynamics

Sunbox2408 said:


> Has another T1 owner noticed these lines at the bottom in the shape of a V (pic below).
> 
> I am using XY pet crystal screen though I do not see these lines or any cease in screen fabric when projector is off.
> 
> It isn't visible when normal movie/netflix content is on but clearly visible in grey and white screens.
> Any ideas / views to help correct this will be greatly appreciated.
> 
> View attachment 3254316
> 
> View attachment 3254315


Mine (not a T1) does that when I let too much dust build up on the lens.


----------



## ProjectionHead

ProFragger said:


> My only problem now is that I cannot unsee that Screen Projections and DarkUST screens that were posted here... Albeit at 2x, 3x+ costs! Do you have thoughts on this? Why those screens look so much better with their black levels?


if you are referring to the Spectra Projection (screen projections) we will have several of them setup at the UST Showcase tomorrow. We won’t have a T1 unfortunately operating for the event, but I will post some pics of a T1 on the various surfaces (I got more samples too) next week when the dust settles.
They look much better because they have more layers and we’re engineered for specific performance characteristics such as black levels and ALR as opposed to higher gain and lower price point.


----------



## m0j0

Sunbox2408 said:


> Has another T1 owner noticed these lines at the bottom in the shape of a V (pic below).
> 
> I am using XY pet crystal screen though I do not see these lines or any cease in screen fabric when projector is off.
> 
> It isn't visible when normal movie/netflix content is on but clearly visible in grey and white screens.
> Any ideas / views to help correct this will be greatly appreciated.
> 
> View attachment 3254316
> 
> View attachment 3254315


If only the black springs were used, it could be that it's not enough tension. I would recommend using at least 2 silver springs on each side and on top and bottom to get a really tight and flat screen.


----------



## m0j0

ProFragger said:


> Thank you so much @m0j0 for your encouragement and encouraging responses.
> 
> If you think Chromecast would support the LLDV, why do you think I should get the Roku Ultra?
> 
> At 2300 lumens looks like that's just under 700 nits of peak brightness. Out of curiosity, I went to get a frame or reference and looks like last year's LG C1 OLED can hit about 800 nits, while my QLED Samsung 75 Q90R from 2019, I believe is a whopping 1600 nits, which is why I'm grateful I got it over the OLED in my bight living room. However, for this theater set up 700 nits would be quite adequate from the T1.
> 
> I also looked into some ALR screens again and looks like the XY PET or the Vava 120" ALR can get 0.6 gain screens at about sub $700, which is quite affordable. My only problem now is that I cannot unsee that Screen Projections and DarkUST screens that were posted here... Albeit at 2x, 3x+ costs! Do you have thoughts on this? Why those screens look so much better with their black levels?


I actually do not believe the Chromecast can support LLDV, at least not in 4k (though perhaps 1080p).

In regards to your intended location for the T1, will it be in a light controlled environment or in a location with ambient light? Your lighting conditions will be the main factor in choosing your screen, in addition to your budget.


----------



## ProFragger

ProjectionHead said:


> if you are referring to the Spectra Projection (screen projections) we will have several of them setup at the UST Showcase tomorrow. We won’t have a T1 unfortunately operating for the event, but I will post some pics of a T1 on the various surfaces (I got more samples too) next week when the dust settles.
> They look much better because they have more layers and we’re engineered for specific performance characteristics such as black levels and ALR as opposed to higher gain and lower price point.


Yes! Spectra Projections, that's the one and your post caused that unseeing effect on me! 😊

I look forward to what you post! And out of curiosity, can you share what these additional materials are and what gain is associated with those screens? I believe the DarkUST it was called was a very similar image too!


----------



## ProFragger

m0j0 said:


> I actually do not believe the Chromecast can support LLDV, at least not in 4k (though perhaps 1080p).
> 
> In regards to your intended location for the T1, will it be in a light controlled environment or in a location with ambient light? Your lighting conditions will be the main factor in choosing your screen, in addition to your budget.


That's a bummer, could you say with confidence Chromecast doesn't support LLDV?

As for the environment, I intend to use this in my theater room, in that, it has no windows, but some overhead lights that can be dimmed. I'd assume that's a great environment for a great, contrasting and color picture with the T1?

Also another question came to my mind... For the non-DV devices, it makes sense that HDFury helps provide DV from source content to the display via LLDV via a Streamer (let's say)... But since T1 is a DV certified device, what exactly is the Vertex2 adding to the mix? Is it the sophisticated handling of tone mapping based on T1's capabilities of brightness? Again, sorry if this is a stupid question.

Thank you again!


----------



## tovaxxx

I have now had 3 times the case that the voice control has turned on and is waiting for a command. It always came back even though I clicked it away with the remote. How can I turn off the voice control in general? I do not need it.


----------



## humax

ProFragger said:


> I also looked into some ALR screens again and looks like the XY PET or the Vava 120" ALR can get 0.6 gain screens at about sub $700, which is quite affordable.



Pet Crystal is 0.8-0.9 gain. 120" will go for about 1000$ (screen + shipping). Below that you get Pet Grid 0.6 gain like the VAVA with lesser ALR effect (dimmer image under ambient light/daylight) and a slightly softer picture. The frames are also thinner and easily bent and the spring tensioning system can be problematic causing ripples/creases on the screen. Pet Crystal can only be used with UST. On the other hand, I have encountered at least one Pet Grid model, which also worked with long throw projectors.


----------



## ProjectionHead

ProFragger said:


> Yes! Spectra Projections, that's the one and your post caused that unseeing effect on me! 😊
> 
> I look forward to what you post! And out of curiosity, can you share what these additional materials are and what gain is associated with those screens? I believe the DarkUST it was called was a very similar image too!


I don’t know specifically what the additional materials are, but all of these surfaces are comprised of different layers with different properties which effect the reflected image.
The Spectra Projection Vantage 0.5 is very similar to the DarkUST 0.5 as well as the Grandview Dynamique 0.4 (all in the left hand column of the image uploaded)


----------



## nas19

tovaxxx said:


> I have now had 3 times the case that the voice control has turned on and is waiting for a command. It always came back even though I clicked it away with the remote. How can I turn off the voice control in general? I do not need it.


I'm not entirely sure about this, but I guess you could uninstall the Chinese apps with ADB. Definitely not the easiest way, but this is probably the best way you can disable all the unwanted stuff. You can find more info on the ProjecTivy Tools XDA page. I do that with my Xiaomi LED projector, but that's on Android 6.


----------



## Directtv999

Thank you for your support of our projector!
We expect to officially push Feng OS 2.0 version next week, so stay tuned!


----------



## spocky12

nas19 said:


> I'm not entirely sure about this, but I guess you could uninstall the Chinese apps with ADB. Definitely not the easiest way, but this is probably the best way you can disable all the unwanted stuff. You can find more info on the ProjecTivy Tools XDA page. I do that with my Xiaomi LED projector, but that's on Android 6.


This will do the job :
adb pm uninstall -k --user 0 cn.formovie.fengos.assist
If you dont want to do this, you can try installing button mapper and add a hook on the mic/assistant button.


----------



## m0j0

ProFragger said:


> That's a bummer, could you say with confidence Chromecast doesn't support LLDV?
> 
> As for the environment, I intend to use this in my theater room, in that, it has no windows, but some overhead lights that can be dimmed. I'd assume that's a great environment for a great, contrasting and color picture with the T1?
> 
> Also another question came to my mind... For the non-DV devices, it makes sense that HDFury helps provide DV from source content to the display via LLDV via a Streamer (let's say)... But since T1 is a DV certified device, what exactly is the Vertex2 adding to the mix? Is it the sophisticated handling of tone mapping based on T1's capabilities of brightness? Again, sorry if this is a stupid question.
> 
> Thank you again!


Fully light controlled room with some overhead lights that can be dimmed? That really gives you a lot of options then. I don't think you need to go lower than .8 if you just have overhead lights to worry about. You will get good black levels with pretty much any screen in that type of room.

Vertex2 gives you custom DV options in terms of the color and nits level to tone map to, so it lets you try different settings to find out what works best in your environment.

Edit: Just as a disclaimer, I don't own a recent model Chromecast so can't confirm whether it can do 4k DV or not. It seems there was mention of a patch, so perhaps it can. You will just have to give it a try and see if it works (and make sure you have a proper cable that would support the necessary bandwidth).


----------



## rooterha

Im curious to see what the Vividstorm looks like when it gets here. I feel like the .4 gain Hisense screen is just a LITTLE too dim for my liking so hopefully the Vividstorm fixes that. Everything else about it is gorgeous.

Tested out the L9G side by side last night just to confirm and its hard to look at after the T1.


----------



## spocky12

m0j0 said:


> Fully light controlled room with some overhead lights that can be dimmed? That really gives you a lot of options then. I don't think you need to go lower than .8 if you just have overhead lights to worry about. You will get good black levels with pretty much any screen in that type of room.
> 
> Vertex2 gives you custom DV options in terms of the color and nits level to tone map to, so it lets you try different settings to find out what works best in your environment.


Still, there's something I don't understand. If nowadays almost every DV device is compatible with LLDV and if LLDV is the preferred way to map DV content, any LLDV compatible player (such as the nvidia shield) should do the job and then the T1 should not be in DV mode (with most display parameters disabled).
Is there anything on the T1 EDID that says that it doesn't support LLDV, and forces the T1 to use its own DV algorithm ?
If not, and DV is really player led, why is the T1 behaving like this ?
Or maybe there's something else I overlook. When a stream is tonemapped by LLDV on the player, which format should be sent to the display ? Still DV with a flag that says it's already tonepammed ? Or HDR like with the HdFury ?
The bottom of this is : is there something misconfigured on the T1 EDID that we should report to formovie for improvement ?


----------



## m0j0

spocky12 said:


> Still, there's something I don't understand. If nowadays almost every DV device is compatible with LLDV and if LLDV is the preferred way to map DV content, any LLDV compatible player (such as the nvidia shield) should do the job and then the T1 should not be in DV mode (with most display parameters disabled).
> Is there anything on the T1 EDID that says that it doesn't support LLDV, and forces the T1 to use its own DV algorithm ?
> If not, and DV is really player led, why is the T1 behaving like this ?
> Or maybe there's something else I overlook. When a stream is tonemapped by LLDV on the player, which format should be sent to the display ? Still DV with a flag that says it's already tonepammed ? Or HDR like with the HdFury ?
> The bottom of this is : is there something misconfigured on the T1 EDID that we should report to formovie for improvement ?


Actually, I don't think the T1 is doing anything wrong or unexpected. If it sees that a device is configured for DV, such as the Shield, and the Shield sends it a DV signal, then the T1 engages DV. There is nothing on the Shield that says it's supposed to send LLDV, just DV. With the Vertex, it is sending an LLDV type signal, so the T1 does not engage DV on the TV. That is my understanding.


----------



## abaintor

It is just a matter of edid info sent to the projector : when shield streams dolby vision content, it advertises LLDV in the edid to the T1. So the T1 puts itself in DV mode. Of course before the T1 advertised which formats and resolutions it support (HDR10, DV....)

When inserting the hdfury in the chain and tricking lldv setting, the hdfury will advertise classic HDR in the edid info but not dolby vision to the T1. So the T1 believes it is receiving static HDR10 which is not. This is the reason why you don't have the same rendering, but it should be very close anyway.
And as in HDR10 mode you have access to the picture settings and motion compensation, you unlock both with dolby vision now.

The same trick lets you play DV content to non compatible dolby vision projectors or TVs. HDR support is the only prerequisite.

About dynamic tone mapping posted earlier, indeed it is another must have like lumagen and envy pro does. 
A PC can do that too with madvr, but no software solution can decode DV to LLDV as the shield does for example. So you're stuck with static HDR10. And static HDR is poor : this is a fixed range for the whole movie and not scene by scne. Madvr tries to compensate this but this is just a guess through picture analysis
So this solution is not satisfying compared to the one above with hdfury because you loose the dynamic frame-by-frame metadata (= brightness adjustments scene by scene).
To summarize : 
1/ dolby vision tricked with hdfury (unlocking projector picture settings and tuning nits with hdfury) is better than 
2/ static HDR10 with dynamic tone mapping through a PC with madvr
3/ nothing more with your T1 projector which is already great (no DTM or tuning)


----------



## ProFragger

humax said:


> Pet Crystal is 0.8-0.9 gain. 120" will go for about 1000$ (screen + shipping). Below that you get Pet Grid 0.6 gain like the VAVA with lesser ALR effect (dimmer image under ambient light/daylight) and a slightly softer picture. The frames are also thinner and easily bent and the spring tensioning system can be problematic causing ripples/creases on the screen. Pet Crystal can only be used with UST. On the other hand, I have encountered at least one Pet Grid model, which also worked with long throw projectors.


This is very helpful, because I was really starting to consider the Vava ALR as a viable option. Looks like, for now... PET Crystal may be the best compromise between quality, cost, and picture?


----------



## humax

ProFragger said:


> This is very helpful, because I was really starting to consider the Vava ALR as a viable option. Looks like, for now... PET Crystal may be the best compromise between quality, cost, and picture?



Yes, XY and Telon Pet Crystals are the cheapest quality choices for USTs. I got the VAVA 120" Pet Grid myself, but I also have to buy the T1 global version, so I cheaped out on the screen.


----------



## ProFragger

ProjectionHead said:


> I don’t know specifically what the additional materials are, but all of these surfaces are comprised of different layers with different properties which effect the reflected image.
> The Spectra Projection Vantage 0.5 is very similar to the DarkUST 0.5 as well as the Grandview Dynamique 0.4 (all in the left hand column of the image uploaded)


Thanks. I caught a glimpse of your stream on YouTube. Between the bad quality and the really jittery flow of the videographer covering the event (lots of interruptions and copy right music issues), I couldn't watch for too long.

Eager to see some high quality stills of the projectors and the screens demo'd... Lots of hype on the AWOL 3500 which has 3D support as well? Nice!


----------



## ProFragger

m0j0 said:


> Fully light controlled room with some overhead lights that can be dimmed? That really gives you a lot of options then. I don't think you need to go lower than .8 if you just have overhead lights to worry about. You will get good black levels with pretty much any screen in that type of room.
> 
> Vertex2 gives you custom DV options in terms of the color and nits level to tone map to, so it lets you try different settings to find out what works best in your environment.
> 
> Edit: Just as a disclaimer, I don't own a recent model Chromecast so can't confirm whether it can do 4k DV or not. It seems there was mention of a patch, so perhaps it can. You will just have to give it a try and see if it works (and make sure you have a proper cable that would support the necessary bandwidth).


Sounds good @m0j0, excited about the T1, but that shopping list keeps getting bigger to get that awesome picture! Plus, I saw some videos on the Vertex2... Not sure I have the technical prowess yet to be able to really use it to dial in for my needs... Let me know if you can point me to a "for dummies" video on that topic haha!


----------



## ProFragger

rooterha said:


> Im curious to see what the Vividstorm looks like when it gets here. I feel like the .4 gain Hisense screen is just a LITTLE too dim for my liking so hopefully the Vividstorm fixes that. Everything else about it is gorgeous.
> 
> Tested out the L9G side by side last night just to confirm and its hard to look at after the T1.


Awesome can you post some side by sides for us from the L9G and T1? Curious to see the visual of what you're describing 😊! Also please mention if you're using something like the Vertex2 in your signal chain? Thank you!


----------



## ProFragger

humax said:


> Yes, XY and Telon Pet Crystals are the cheapest quality choices for USTs. I got the VAVA 120" Pet Grid myself, but I also have to buy the T1 global version, so I cheaped out on the screen.


What do we know so far about this Global version? Is it really confirmed for release? What would be the difference from the Chinese model? Is there a cost or warranty difference? Anything else that makes it stand out? Thank you!


----------



## m0j0

ProFragger said:


> Sounds good @m0j0, excited about the T1, but that shopping list keeps getting bigger to get that awesome picture! Plus, I saw some videos on the Vertex2... Not sure I have the technical prowess yet to be able to really use it to dial in for my needs... Let me know if you can point me to a "for dummies" video on that topic haha!


It's really much easier than it seems at first glance. Once you plug it in, you can open a web browser and get to the interface (just http://ip.address). Then you have a few tabs where you would check some boxes and enter some values. You can just use screenshots provided by others and in a few minutes, you will be up and running. Once you get to that point, just let me know and I can share screenshots of all my tabs.


----------



## Ricoflashback

ProFragger said:


> Thanks. I caught a glimpse of your stream on YouTube. Between the bad quality and the really jittery flow of the videographer covering the event (lots of interruptions and copy right music issues), I couldn't watch for too long.
> 
> Eager to see some high quality stills of the projectors and the screens demo'd... Lots of hype on the AWOL 3500 which has 3D support as well? Nice!


Yes, at least on my desktop PC - the video was unwatchable. Switching to my iPad and it was great.


----------



## ProFragger

m0j0 said:


> It's really much easier than it seems at first glance. Once you plug it in, you can open a web browser and get to the interface (just http://ip.address). Then you have a few tabs where you would check some boxes and enter some values. You can just use screenshots provided by others and in a few minutes, you will be up and running. Once you get to that point, just let me know and I can share screenshots of all my tabs.


If I ever get there, my friend, I'll be sure to DM you to get started 😊! Thank you again for all the help you've given me... You're an asset to this forum!


----------



## humax

rooterha said:


> Tested out the L9G side by side last night just to confirm and its hard to look at after the T1.



Is your L9G calibrated? Do you actually see even a tiny color advantage due to full REC.2020 coverage compared to the T1?


----------



## Gig'em ATX

Taking a strong look at the Fengmi T1 or other UST in the not too distant future to replace an aged long throw Panasonic 1080 projector. Looking at redoing the theater room at the same time to update sound, etc. I'm not totally opposed to doing something like a Vividstorm screen, however, I'm curious to see what the thoughts are versus doing a DIY spandex screen setup which is a lot cheaper. It will be in a light controlled media room. Looking at a 120-130" screen. Current screen was a DIY Carl's PVC white screen in scope format at about 145" diagonal. Open to hearing your thoughts/guidance especially from anyone with positive or negative experience here.


----------



## humax

Gig'em ATX said:


> I'm not totally opposed to doing something like a Vividstorm screen, however, I'm curious to see what the thoughts are versus doing a DIY spandex screen setup which is a lot cheaper.



Spandex screen for long throw? Sure! For UST? Not a very good idea. Check out the Vividstorm with the T1. Straight as an arrow. If you think you can achieve the same amount of tension and the material is right, go ahead and do it. Personally, I would not bother or even spend little money on it, but it might be better than projecting on a plain wall.

Formovie T1 RGB Three Laser UST projector, with 120" VividStorm Floor Rising Screen - YouTube


----------



## tovaxxx

savings are made at the wrong end


----------



## Gig'em ATX

humax said:


> Spandex screen for long throw? Sure! For UST? Not a very good idea. Check out the Vividstorm with the T1. Straight as an arrow. If you think you can achieve the same amount of tension and the material is right, go ahead and do it. Personally, I would not bother or even spend little money on it, but it might be better than projecting on a plain wall.
> 
> Formovie T1 RGB Three Laser UST projector, with 120" VividStorm Floor Rising Screen - YouTube


I definitely can get it flat and wave free. I did with the PVC screen. Not having any experience with the UST stuff, I wondered more what it would do on the spandex. The spandex should be a lot easier to mount than the PVC as it is stretchy by nature. Just don't want to over stretch it to open the weave too much.


----------



## tovaxxx

With a normal screen, a large part of the reflection goes to the ceiling. Therefore, you should take an ALR for a UST.


----------



## rooterha

humax said:


> Is your L9G calibrated? Do you actually see even a tiny color advantage due to full REC.2020 coverage compared to the T1?


I'm no expert - but something like Luca or Turning Red (basically any very very bright colorful movie) still looks superior on the L9G to me. Colors, the way the image pops, etc but on everything else the T1 is waaaaaaaay better.


----------



## humax

tovaxxx said:


> savings are made at the wrong end



You are basically right. One should not cheap out on the screen, especially with UST, but not everyone's budget and financial means are the same. I have 3500$ budget for the T1 global version plus an ALR, not a dollar more. I wanted to get the floor-rising Vividstorm too. Unfortunately, numbers do not add up in my case, so I just settled with the bare minimum. I am not too happy with my screen choice, but it is what it is.


----------



## Gig'em ATX

Thank you. That was actually a really good point about the angle of reflected light from the UST thereby hitting the ceiling.


----------



## tovaxxx

I didn't pay much more for either. I would have then saved some more and then got the things. Rather I wait a little and then have the right things. jm2c


----------



## humax

Gig'em ATX said:


> I definitely can get it flat and wave free. I did with the PVC screen. Not having any experience with the UST stuff, I wondered more what it would do on the spandex.




You are eligible for a try then, however I am still not sure the material is suitable for UST projection (dim image, hot-spotiing etc). I would still not bother and spend my money on a Fengmi Pet Grid ALR. You cannot get any cheaper real screen solution than that.

FENGMI 100-Inch Anti-light Projector Black Screen 16:9 Soft Screen 4K HD Home Th Sale - Banggood USA-arrival notice


----------



## humax

rooterha said:


> I'm no expert - but something like Luca or Turning Red (basically any very very bright colorful movie) still looks superior on the L9G to me. Colors, the way the image pops, etc but on everything else the T1 is waaaaaaaay better.



Thank you for your input! I get it. Lack of CMS and 89% color coverage seem to have a slight impact on color and pop, although the L9G is a bit brighter too. Damn it, Fengmi! Why couldn't they get it right in the first place?


----------



## rooterha

humax said:


> Thank you for your input! I get it. Lack of CMS and 89% color coverage seem to have a slight impact on color and pop, although the L9G is a bit brighter too. Damn it, Fengmi! Why couldn't they get it right in the first place?


Honestly the T1 seems so versatile for all types of content when it's properly setup - you shouldnt feel it's lacking - it's only because I was able to compare them back to back.


----------



## humax

rooterha said:


> Honestly the T1 seems so versatile for all types of content when it's properly setup - you shouldnt feel it's lacking - it's only because I was able to compare them back to back.



You are right, but it does kind of feel like a missed opportunity. Color should be way easier to dial in than contrast. They got it backwards.


----------



## Sunbox2408

humax said:


> First thought is that your screen is not properly tensioned at this lower part, even though you cannot see any crease/ripple. You can try resetting the springs for better tension. I suppose the horizontal yellow lines are from the camera?


That's right yellow lines are from the phone camera. I might try cleaning the lens first and try tensioning more later if that doesn't work. Thanks for replying.


----------



## Sunbox2408

aerodynamics said:


> Mine (not a T1) does that when I let too much dust build up on the lens.


Thanks for this suggestion and this makes sense. Any idea what the best way to clean the lens is? Without messing anything.


----------



## Sunbox2408

m0j0 said:


> If only the black springs were used, it could be that it's not enough tension. I would recommend using at least 2 silver springs on each side and on top and bottom to get a really tight and flat screen.


You are right there are only black springs at the back I believe. Will try and source silver springs and replace top and sides.


----------



## humax

Sunbox2408 said:


> That's right yellow lines are from the phone camera. I might try cleaning the lens first and try tensioning more later if that doesn't work. Thanks for replying.



You are welcome. If you have any spare springs, you can use two in each fabric hole for better tension. At least, that's the idea. In practice, it is a bit of a nightmare to get it right. My VAVA still has ripples in all four corners and I have already disassembled it twice. I doubt I will do much better. It is really tricky.


----------



## humax

Sunbox2408 said:


> Thanks for this suggestion and this makes sense. Any idea what the best way to clean the lens is? Without messing anything.


I really hope that's the culprit, but isn't your projector rather new to have a dirty lens? Does your living room gather up much dust?


----------



## aerodynamics

Sunbox2408 said:


> Thanks for this suggestion and this makes sense. Any idea what the best way to clean the lens is? Without messing anything.


I use a cleaning kit for camera lenses. It has a blower with a brush at the end. I use that to blow away the bulk of the dust. Then I put a drop of lens solution on a sheet of lens tissue and very gently swirl it around the lens. I've been cleaning camera lenses this way for 20 years and never had a problem and it seems to work the same for projectors too.


----------



## m0j0

Sunbox2408 said:


> You are right there are only black springs at the back I believe. Will try and source silver springs and replace top and sides.


My xyscreen came with both, that is why I had some available. Also, get a can of compressed air, as that image you showed could definitely be just dust on the lens.


----------



## m0j0

Directtv999 said:


> Thank you for your support of our projector!
> We expect to officially push Feng OS 2.0 version next week, so stay tuned!


Do you know if they are making any changes from the most recent alpha firmware that they recently released?


----------



## loyot

humax said:


> Pet Crystal is 0.8-0.9 gain. 120" will go for about 1000$ (screen + shipping). Below that you get Pet Grid 0.6 gain like the VAVA with lesser ALR effect (dimmer image under ambient light/daylight) and a slightly softer picture. The frames are also thinner and easily bent and the spring tensioning system can be problematic causing ripples/creases on the screen. Pet Crystal can only be used with UST. On the other hand, I have encountered at least one Pet Grid model, which also worked with long throw projectors.


How about other cheaper option for pet crystal which offered by wupro, snowhite & other oem in alibaba?are the quality the same?


----------



## Sunbox2408

aerodynamics said:


> I use a cleaning kit for camera lenses. It has a blower with a brush at the end. I use that to blow away the bulk of the dust. Then I put a drop of lens solution on a sheet of lens tissue and very gently swirl it around the lens. I've been cleaning camera lenses this way for 20 years and never had a problem and it seems to work the same for projectors too.


It is fixed - you were right. Although I was a bit impatient I used the magnetic microfibre soft duster to clean the lens already (oops). Hope I haven't damaged the lens lol but all lines have magically disappeared 😄 so pleased and releived. 

I was in touch with August Liu feom Xy and she was equally confused, she actually asked me to sift the entire screen to the right (thankfully I didnt do any of that).

This forum is a life saver with brilliant piece of advice all around. Thanks heaps @aerodynamics .


----------



## Sunbox2408

m0j0 said:


> My xyscreen came with both, that is why I had some available. Also, get a can of compressed air, as that image you showed could definitely be just dust on the lens.


It indeed was dust on the lens - thanks for the advice.
Cheers


----------



## Sunbox2408

humax said:


> I really hope that's the culprit, but isn't your projector rather new to have a dirty lens? Does your living room gather up much dust?


Thankfully it was the culprit . You are right it is brand new and it seems my room does gather a lot of dust.

I am currently using the chinese printed silkish cloth which came with the projector to cover it. Does anyone have any other ideas to cover their USTs when not I use?


----------



## mirzank

humax said:


> You are eligible for a try then, however I am still not sure the material is suitable for UST projection (dim image, hot-spotiing etc). I would still not bother and spend my money on a Fengmi Pet Grid ALR. You cannot get any cheaper real screen solution than that.
> 
> FENGMI 100-Inch Anti-light Projector Black Screen 16:9 Soft Screen 4K HD Home Th Sale - Banggood USA-arrival notice


Any idea what this screen looks like off? Cant find actual pics on link. Is it white or black ? And how do you mount it ? I’m wondering if this can kind of blend into a white wall as I want a screen free living room kind of situation.


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

Sunbox2408 said:


> I am currently using the chinese printed silkish cloth which came with the projector to cover it. Does anyone have any other ideas to cover their USTs when not I use?


i don’t have any personal experience with this, but…









Custom padded cover for Formovie Fengmi T1 Laser TV Projector


All covers are made with a great care and precision!Features and specifications:- Heavy-duty nylon exterior protects your investment against spills and dampness;- Padded 10mm layer for impact protection;- Super-soft velvet interior;- Heavy-duty seam binding with a 30mm seat-belting line that...




bestampcovers.com


----------



## humax

loyot said:


> How about other cheaper option for pet crystal which offered by wupro, snowhite & other oem in alibaba?are the quality the same?



I am not familiar with them, so I do not know. I have read good things about Snowhites, when they came out, but that's about it. If they are Pet Crystals, they should be OK too. However, Snowhite's gain of 0.42 indicates it is a Pet Grid.

Ultra Short Throw ALR Screen (snowhitescreen.com)


----------



## humax

Sunbox2408 said:


> Thankfully it was the culprit . You are right it is brand new and it seems my room does gather a lot of dust.
> 
> I am currently using the chinese printed silkish cloth which came with the projector to cover it. Does anyone have any other ideas to cover their USTs when not I use?



You are lucky it was that simple. So, buying a custom-made dust cover for modern USTs, when not in use, sounds like a good idea. I have never had any kind of on-screen visual issue with my Philips Screeneo UST in six years and it sits in a room gathering tons of dust. In fact, i don't even remember, when I last dusted it off. It seems like current models are more sensitive.


----------



## humax

mirzank said:


> Any idea what this screen looks like off? Cant find actual pics on link. Is it white or black ? And how do you mount it ? I’m wondering if this can kind of blend into a white wall as I want a screen free living room kind of situation.



FENGMI 100-Inch Anti-light Projector screen review - Best affordable ALR UST projection screen! - YouTube 


This is the best video review of this screen. Very explanatory. It tells you all you want to know. I would have bought it too, but wanted 120" minimum and Fengmi is currently 100" only, so I went with VAVA. Still, it seems like a great VFM screen, better than any DIY solution. ALR effect is also very good for such a cheap model.


----------



## mirzank

humax said:


> FENGMI 100-Inch Anti-light Projector screen review - Best affordable ALR UST projection screen! - YouTube
> 
> 
> This is the best video review of this screen. Very explanatory. It tells you all you want to know. I would have bought it too, but wanted 120" minimum and Fengmi is currently 100" only, so I went with VAVA. Still, it seems like a great VFM screen, better than any DIY solution. ALR effect is also very good for such a cheap model.


Could you please provide the vava link or exact model? I would also prefer 120 so if the vava is better I’ll check it out.


----------



## humax

mirzank said:


> Could you please provide the vava link or exact model? I would also prefer 120 so if the vava is better I’ll check it out.



VAVA Ambient Light Rejecting (ALR) Projector Screen Pro 

That's the link for the 100" model. The 120" does not seem available right now.


----------



## m0j0

Here's my T1's reaction to them badmouthing it over on the UST showcase thread...


----------



## nas19

m0j0 said:


> Here's my T1's reaction to them badmouthing it over on the UST showcase thread...
> 
> View attachment 3254870


What did they say? I only followed some parts of it.


----------



## m0j0

nas19 said:


> What did they say? I only followed some parts of it.


In the comments section the administrator basically said all chinese UST's are junk and the T1 he received was the worst he'd ever seen in terms of uniformity, or something along those lines. And the best part was when he said that anyone saying different is either being paid or defending a bad purchase...


----------



## humax

m0j0 said:


> In the comments section the administrator basically said all chinese UST's are junk and the T1 he received was the worst he'd ever seen in terms of uniformity, or something along those lines. And the best part was when he said that anyone saying different is either being paid or defending a bad purchase...




Wow, some strong sentiments and opinions in that thread. Relax people, it is just a projector. It is also your money and just buy whatever works for you and you are comfortable with. We are not curing cancer here, just exchanging views and info on our favorite hobby. People are dying in a war elsewhere, while we are bickering.


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> In the comments section the administrator basically said all chinese UST's are junk and the T1 he received was the worst he'd ever seen in terms of uniformity, or something along those lines. And the best part was when he said that anyone saying different is either being paid or defending a bad purchase...


Once you have “sponsors” for events like this - you are going to get biased opinions - not facts based on user experiences. That’s why the AVSForum is so valuable. Did Brian actually say this? If so, that would be surprising.


----------



## rooterha

m0j0 said:


> In the comments section the administrator basically said all chinese UST's are junk and the T1 he received was the worst he'd ever seen in terms of uniformity, or something along those lines. And the best part was when he said that anyone saying different is either being paid or defending a bad purchase...


He didn't test a T1 - Brian's was dead. They tested an Appotronics that has bad reviews so not a good one to base it off of.

But yeah the way he lashed out so hard was weird.


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> Once you have “sponsors” for events like this - you are going to get biased opinions - not facts based on user experiences. That’s why the AVSForum is so valuable. Did Brian actually say this? If so, that would be surprising.


No, Brian didn’t say anything other than he’s still waiting to get his replacement T1.


----------



## m0j0

humax said:


> Wow, some strong sentiments and opinions in that thread. Relax people, it is just a projector. It is also your money and just buy whatever works for you and you are comfortable with. We are not curing cancer here, just exchanging views and info on our favorite hobby. People are dying in a war elsewhere, while we are bickering.


I definitely feel like I got my moneys worth with this projector. Thought I was curing cancer though with my posts, so that is a bit discouraging to hear…


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> No, Brian didn’t say anything other than he’s still waiting to get his replacement T1.


I didn’t think so. Brian is a real straight shooter. And we’ve all been in sales situations where folks sell negatively.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Math Fengmi T1 questions that will be on the mid term exam.

For a 100” screen, what is the distance from the bottom of the projector (from the table or stand it’s on) to the very bottom of the picture itself?

As you increase the screen size, does that distance increase up or is most of the screen size increase at the very top of the picture?


----------



## m0j0

The Witcher is hungry and looking for doubters...


----------



## humax

rooterha said:


> He didn't test a T1 - Brian's was dead. They tested an Appotronics that has bad reviews so not a good one to base it off of.
> 
> But yeah the way he lashed out so hard was weird.



I can justify criticism on the lack of CMS, color accuracy or coverage and software being rough around the edges. In fact, I even find it valid. However, downplaying contrast and saying grey blacks is OK in a 2022 projector and then asking premium money for such a model just because it offers all the above mentioned things plus a well known brand name is also just smokescreen and marketing hype. By the way, Hisense is Chinese, Benq is Taiwanese, LG and Samsung Korean, Optoma models are also made in China. Only Epson, JVC and Sony are Japanese companies. So, basically most projectors on the market are sort of Chinese-made junk anyway. Things are simple. This is the first time since the 0.95" units that we are getting decent DLP contrast and models you would not be ashamed to put next to an Epson or a JVC. If you cannot appreciate that and just insist on sticking to your guns, ALPD units are not for you. Nothing wrong with that, if you are not insulting other peoples' choices.

P.S. You are right on the Wemax Nova. It is mediocre by ALPD standards. You cannot claim you really know ALPD tech, if you have not experienced at least one of the following models: Xiaomi C2, Fengmi T1, Xiaomi 1S, Fengmi C2, Wemax A300 or Wemax D30.


----------



## ProFragger

mirzank said:


> Could you please provide the vava link or exact model? I would also prefer 120 so if the vava is better I’ll check it out.


I'm learning about screens here and how I'd be putting my set up together once I have learned enough and it's time for it in my home, but as I was ready to take the plunge on the Vava 120" as well, I learned that it does have the PET Grid material on it, not the PET Crystal has it's widely recommended to me in this thread from a value perspective.

Again, I'm learning and someone more learned may correct me here... But I wanted to offer you some additional data points 😊. Please keep us posted!


----------



## humax

ProFragger said:


> I was ready to take the plunge on the Vava 120" as well, I learned that it does have the PET Grid material on it, not the PET Crystal has it's widely recommended to me in this thread from a value perspective.



An OK price for 120" Pet Grid is up to 800$. 120" Pet Crystal starts from 1000$.


----------



## Gig'em ATX

Yeah, so the one guy that was making all the negative comments in that thread actually looks like the paid shill. I'm just saying. And if he's in the sales market and sells the other brands that he found to be the best, then he has the vested interest. If he owns one of the other brands that he's recommending, then he might have the vested interest from that perspective too. It was pretty abrasive the way he went about his posts. I will wait for what Brian has to say, as I far and away appreciate the way he looks at things and articulates and I absolutely like the way he has an open mind about it all too. Refreshing to see from someone who actually is in the business and has a vested interest.


----------



## Gig'em ATX

humax said:


> An OK price for 120" Pet Grid is up to 800$. 120" Pet Crystal starts from 1000$.


I'm seeing some things advertised as being black pet crystal. I'm not sure what is what here, and why this retailer is saying theirs is better? Anyone with experience able to chime in?

Black Crystal on Ali Express


----------



## humax

Gig'em ATX said:


> I'm seeing some things advertised as being black pet crystal. I'm not sure what is what here, and why this retailer is saying theirs is better? Anyone with experience able to chime in?
> 
> Black Crystal on Ali Express



It is one of the newer companies and about the same price as the XY. Pet Black Crystal is supposed to be a bit better than normal Pet Crystal. It is also more expensive.


----------



## zoomx2

New firmware available doesn't see any difference yet.


----------



## gen_x

Gig'em ATX said:


> I'm seeing some things advertised as being black pet crystal. I'm not sure what is what here, and why this retailer is saying theirs is better? Anyone with experience able to chime in?
> 
> Black Crystal on Ali Express


----------



## Gig'em ATX

Cool. Thanks for the screenshots. Hard to tell sometimes because of the way camera exposures can be, but does it crush the whites as it deepens the blacks? Not knowing just how bright these projectors are in person, assuming that on a 120" screen in a light controlled room you'll still get that HDR punch while improving blacks?


----------



## ProFragger

humax said:


> An OK price for 120" Pet Grid is up to 800$. 120" Pet Crystal starts from 1000$.


Yes, you're right... But what I mean was, is $200 worth the jump from Grid to Crystal?

I wish there was a Wiki or post on the different Crystal kinds... What they are? Who made them etc, you know? If you find something like that, please share. Thank you.


----------



## ProFragger

gen_x said:


> View attachment 3255080
> 
> View attachment 3255081


Thank you... I don't know, I think I may almost prefer the traditional grey over the black... Black seems to really dim the screen!


----------



## m0j0

ProFragger said:


> Thank you... I don't know, I think I may almost prefer the traditional grey over the black... Black seems to really dim the screen!


I would stick with the PET Crystal at .8 gain. It's plenty bright and in a light controlled room, the black levels won't be an issue.


----------



## m0j0

Went back and edited my post with settings for the Roku and Z9X. Dialed back the brightness a bit more and notched contrast up another notch, as well as moving the tone a notch to the right. Ran through all the typical test scenes and feel it gives a tad brighter and more contrasty image, while the colors and skin tones look really, really impressive.


----------



## zoomx2

m0j0 said:


> Went back and edited my post with settings for the Roku and Z9X. Dialed back the brightness a bit more and notched contrast up another notch, as well as moving the tone a notch to the right. Ran through all the typical test scenes and feel it gives a tad brighter and more contrasty image, while the colors and skin tones look really, really impressive.


Have you tested the firmware yet? I see the focus improved


----------



## m0j0

zoomx2 said:


> Have you tested the firmware yet? I see the focus improved


Yes, downloaded and installed this evening. I didn't see a lot of difference, but it may have been a bit sharper. I was playing with the MEMC on low as well and feeling like there might be a slight improvement. Was really hoping they fix the issue where you can't modify the custom values without switching to a built in mode and then back to custom, but no.


----------



## gostocks

zoomx2 said:


> New firmware available doesn't see any difference yet.


Official or still beta? Version xxxx?


----------



## Sunbox2408

I do not see the new 2.0 update available yet. It is still at 1.4xxx version.


----------



## abzorh

gostocks said:


> Official or still beta? Version xxxx?


Not yet.
Only beta.


----------



## humax

ProFragger said:


> Yes, you're right... But what I mean was, is $200 worth the jump from Grid to Crystal?



Yes, provided you don't pay import taxes, which seems to be the case in US. In Europe, I could only get the VAVA tax free, for XY I would have to pay obligatory VAT and custom charges, which raised the price significantly.


----------



## humax

m0j0 said:


> I would stick with the PET Crystal at .8 gain. It's plenty bright and in a light controlled room, the black levels won't be an issue.



I agree. You will need a light cannon in order to properly display dark HDR stuff with Pet Black, otherwise things will get too dark and image dynamics will suffer.


----------



## Brajesh

Gig'em ATX said:


> Yeah, so the one guy that was making all the negative comments in that thread actually looks like the paid shill. I'm just saying. And if he's in the sales market and sells the other brands that he found to be the best, then he has the vested interest. If he owns one of the other brands that he's recommending, then he might have the vested interest from that perspective too. It was pretty abrasive the way he went about his posts. I will wait for what Brian has to say, as I far and away appreciate the way he looks at things and articulates and I absolutely like the way he has an open mind about it all too. Refreshing to see from someone who actually is in the business and has a vested interest.


Read through that thread, and just wow! I've been an AVS Forum member for 22 years, and those posts are among the most ignorant, uninformed, ethnocentric and plain rude & dismissive of many experts here I've ever come across. On top of it, those comments are by a forum admin, jaw drop!


----------



## m0j0

Brajesh said:


> Read through that thread, and just wow! I've been an AVS Forum member for 22 years, and those posts are among the most ignorant, uninformed, ethnocentric and plain rude & dismissive of many experts here I've ever come across. On top of it, those comments are by a forum admin, jaw drop!


Agreed


----------



## zaselim

hey guy, anyone in Canada can point me to a good 2.1 hdml cable link in 20feet atleast. I have been search for it on amazon.ca for a while now and almost all them have mix reviews and in the comment section people are saying that they're not 2.1 cables and don't give full [email protected] I'm getting confused because of it.
I'll really appreciate the help.


----------



## jhav1

Just ordered the T1 online and have a few questions that I'm hoping somebody can support me with. I have searched all over and can't seem to find a user manual that would probably answer many of these -- If I missed a link or a post, it would be great if you could share.

Here is some background:

My setup is in a basement with no windows and some overhead lights. Ceiling is 7' tall. 
Currently have a 106" Elite Screens for a traditional LT Epson projector. The height of this screen (with border) is just under 57" --- I have roughly 2' free space below and 4" above this current screen. 
I have a wall-mounted center speaker - Definitive Tech Mythos 9 - that is currently mounted below my screen. It protrudes from the wall by ~3/5". Ideally, I'd like to keep this speaker wall mounted (can move it down a bit if needed), but am willing to relocate it to a table to sit above/below the T1 if needed. 
Here are my questions:

I'd like to get a larger screen --- for a 120" screen, how far below the screen does the T1 need to sit? How far away from the wall does it sit? If I can't make a 120 work, I'll try to find a 110" instead.
Might be hard for you to say, but if I keep my current center speaker mounted to the wall, will the 3.5" protrusion block the light from the T1, or is the T1 beam far enough away as to not impact it?
Any screen recommendation? I'd rather spend a few $$ more for better quality, but reading these threads makes it really hard to get a consensus on what is the best to very-good option. Is the PET Crystal from China a great screen, or just cheaper than some of the other ALR options?
Thanks in advance for any feedback/insight.


----------



## humax

jhav1 said:


> Any screen recommendation? I'd rather spend a few $$ more for better quality, but reading these threads makes it really hard to get a consensus on what is the best to very-good option. Is the PET Crystal from China a great screen, or just cheaper than some of the other ALR options?



If you can afford the Vividstorm, go for that one. If you cannot, then go for a fixed frame PET Crystal. These vary in price from 1000$ to more than 2000$ for 120". It all depends on your screen budget.


----------



## zoomx2

With the new firmware, View mode and Standard are very close to my custom setting. Not sure they did anything but it was never that close.


----------



## jhav1

humax said:


> If you can afford the Vividstorm, go for that one.


Thanks for the feedback, but I'm curious - why use a Vividstorm in a room that is dedicated? Is the performance of the screen that much greater than a fixed screen? Also, the Vividstrom seems like it would make placement of my Center Channel speaker more challenging and would require moving it from it's current wall-mounted position.


----------



## humax

jhav1 said:


> why use a Vividstorm in a room that is dedicated? Is the performance of the screen that much greater than a fixed screen? Also, the Vividstrom seems like it would make placement of my Center Channel speaker more challenging and would require moving it from it's current wall-mounted position.




1. It is plug and play and hustle-free installation wise.

2. You do not have to worry about focus-geometry issues due to wall-screen misalignment. It is more common than you think with UST projection.

3. You can still use your current screen, if some day you decide to go back to long throw projection.

4. Yes, it is a high quality screen you can use in every room in your house, should you decide to move it.

Otherwise, by all means you can get a fixed frame PET Crystal for a permanent installation, if it better suits your needs.


----------



## ProFragger

humax said:


> Yes, provided you don't pay import taxes, which seems to be the case in US. In Europe, I could only get the VAVA tax free, for XY I would have to pay obligatory VAT and custom charges, which raised the price significantly.


Gotcha... This is good information, thank you. I thought I read in this thread that in the US we don't pay anything else on top of the price we see with AliExpress and etc... That is, cost, tax, and shipping. Maybe I didn't read right? Thanks.


----------



## ProFragger

humax said:


> I agree. You will need a light cannon in order to properly display dark HDR stuff with Pet Black, otherwise things will get too dark and image dynamics will suffer.


Yes, looking at those images the black does look too crushed to me...

Is there a place to learn about what this Crystal line is? Who made it and what the differences are? Thanks.


----------



## ted_b

ProFragger said:


> Gotcha... This is good information, thank you. I thought I read in this thread that in the US we don't pay anything else on top of the price we see with AliExpress and etc... That is, cost, tax, and shipping. Maybe I didn't read right? Thanks.


Yes mine had no import fees ( at least not listed)


----------



## humax

ProFragger said:


> Gotcha... This is good information, thank you. I thought I read in this thread that in the US we don't pay anything else on top of the price we see with AliExpress and etc... That is, cost, tax, and shipping. Maybe I didn't read right? Thanks.



I am not an American, but I believe anything with a declared value under 700$ does not come with import fees. Chinese sellers are just happy to oblige. In Europe, you now have to provide customs with a printed copy of PayPal/CC transaction for the import process to be complete even for low value items, so declared value no longer matters.


----------



## lattiboy

Kind of surprised people aren’t talking about the firmware update. If you were in the alpha it’s not dramatically different; but “display” image mode with both view and night brightness is damn near perfect now. Almost indistinguishable from my own custom settings:


----------



## rooterha

lattiboy said:


> Kind of surprised people aren’t talking about the firmware update. If you were in the alpha it’s not dramatically different; but “display” image mode with both view and night brightness is damn near perfect now. Almost indistinguishable from my own custom settings:
> 
> View attachment 3255506


Thanks - I downloaded it but haven't tested anything other than custom. Will try it tonight.


----------



## gostocks

zaselim said:


> hey guy, anyone in Canada can point me to a good 2.1 hdml cable link in 20feet atleast. I have been search for it on amazon.ca for a while now and almost all them have mix reviews and in the comment section people are saying that they're not 2.1 cables and don't give full [email protected] I'm getting confused because of it.
> I'll really appreciate the help.


Try monoprice.com


----------



## zoomx2

lattiboy said:


> Kind of surprised people aren’t talking about the firmware update. If you were in the alpha it’s not dramatically different; but “display” image mode with both view and night brightness is damn near perfect now. Almost indistinguishable from my own custom settings:
> 
> View attachment 3255506


I believe the images are getting better and better. Maybe me only, just want to confirm with others.


----------



## gostocks

lattiboy said:


> Kind of surprised people aren’t talking about the firmware update. If you were in the alpha it’s not dramatically different; but “display” image mode with both view and night brightness is damn near perfect now. Almost indistinguishable from my own custom settings:
> 
> View attachment 3255506





http://media.developer.dolby.com/DolbyVision_Atmos/mp4/iOS_P5_GlassBlowing2_1920x1080%4059.94fps_15200kbps.mp4



Can you please try the above playback if the red on skin is still excessive?


----------



## zaselim

gostocks said:


> monoprice.com


Thanks, I'll check it out. Do they have full 48gbps 2.1 hdmi cables? More importantly, do I really need HDMI 2.1 with T1? Because it doesn't actually do 4k/120hz, My AV also does only 4k/60 HDCP2.2.


----------



## Ricoflashback

humax said:


> 1. It is plug and play and hustle-free installation wise.
> 
> 2. You do not have to worry about focus-geometry issues due to wall-screen misalignment. It is more common than you think with UST projection.
> 
> 3. You can still use your current screen, if some day you decide to go back to long throw projection.
> 
> 4. Yes, it is a high quality screen you can use in every room in your house, should you decide to move it.
> 
> Otherwise, by all means you can get a fixed frame PET Crystal for a permanent installation, if it better suits your needs.


The OP is going to be challenged to get a 120” image with a seven foot ceiling with a UST projector. His frame will roughly be 105” wide by 60” height. So plan on any UST PJ to be real close to the ground. I know you like the the Vividstorm screen Humax but I believe that product is far more susceptible to mechanical failure than a regular electronic screen. And a fixed screen has virtually zero risks compared to either of those screens. I guess I don’t understand why the OP would change from a dedicated theater room to a UST setup. I’d spend my money on an Epson 12000 projector and couple it with the largest scope screen I could get (at least 120” or greater) which would yield a similar 16 x 9 picture with a far more immersive CinemaScope experience.


----------



## Sunbox2408

lattiboy said:


> Kind of surprised people aren’t talking about the firmware update. If you were in the alpha it’s not dramatically different; but “display” image mode with both view and night brightness is damn near perfect now. Almost indistinguishable from my own custom settings:
> 
> View attachment 3255506


I am eagerly awaiting the update to get my hands on it. Hasn't been officially launched is why not everyone is talking about it.


----------



## lattiboy

Sunbox2408 said:


> I am eagerly awaiting the update to get my hands on it. Hasn't been officially launched is why not everyone is talking about it.


Ah! Sorry then, thought it was out in public now. Still some bugs, but overall a massive improvement. You can basically use view / display and leave it be. Perfectly calibrated IMO and no active contrast.

If they fix HDMI issue and tune up Dolby vision / HDR some more it’ll be an essentially perfect product.


----------



## rooterha

What's the gain of your screen lattiboy? View/display is way too dim for me on the .4 Hisense screen. Will check it when the vividstorm finally arrives tomorrow


----------



## lattiboy

rooterha said:


> What's the gain of your screen lattiboy? View/display is way too dim for me on the .4 Hisense screen. Will check it when the vividstorm finally arrives tomorrow


.6

.4 in view mode would still be fine I think, but you’re losing a lot of light output to that screen and you’ll need better ambient light control. Absolute black level is so low already on the T1 I am kind of wondering if the extra dark screen might be overkill…. Or incredible.

you’ll have to let us know


----------



## SiUse

jhav1 said:


> Thanks for the feedback, but I'm curious - why use a Vividstorm in a room that is dedicated? Is the performance of the screen that much greater than a fixed screen? Also, the Vividstrom seems like it would make placement of my Center Channel speaker more challenging and would require moving it from it's current wall-mounted position.


If you have the funds and decide to get the plug and play vividstorm, choose the audio transparent screen (under the actual screen there is perforated fabric to fit a center speaker behind it.


----------



## rjyap

Ricoflashback said:


> The OP is going to be challenged to get a 120” image with a seven foot ceiling with a UST projector. His frame will roughly be 105” wide by 60” height. So plan on any UST PJ to be real close to the ground. I know you like the the Vividstorm screen Humax but I believe that product is far more susceptible to mechanical failure than a regular electronic screen. And a fixed screen has virtually zero risks compared to either of those screens. I guess I don’t understand why the OP would change from a dedicated theater room to a UST setup. I’d spend my money on an Epson 12000 projector and couple it with the largest scope screen I could get (at least 120” or greater) which would yield a similar 16 x 9 picture with a far more immersive CinemaScope experience.





jhav1 said:


> Just ordered the T1 online and have a few questions that I'm hoping somebody can support me with. I have searched all over and can't seem to find a user manual that would probably answer many of these -- If I missed a link or a post, it would be great if you could share.
> 
> Here is some background:
> 
> My setup is in a basement with no windows and some overhead lights. Ceiling is 7' tall.
> Currently have a 106" Elite Screens for a traditional LT Epson projector. The height of this screen (with border) is just under 57" --- I have roughly 2' free space below and 4" above this current screen.
> I have a wall-mounted center speaker - Definitive Tech Mythos 9 - that is currently mounted below my screen. It protrudes from the wall by ~3/5". Ideally, I'd like to keep this speaker wall mounted (can move it down a bit if needed), but am willing to relocate it to a table to sit above/below the T1 if needed.
> Here are my questions:
> 
> I'd like to get a larger screen --- for a 120" screen, how far below the screen does the T1 need to sit? How far away from the wall does it sit? If I can't make a 120 work, I'll try to find a 110" instead.
> Might be hard for you to say, but if I keep my current center speaker mounted to the wall, will the 3.5" protrusion block the light from the T1, or is the T1 beam far enough away as to not impact it?
> Any screen recommendation? I'd rather spend a few $$ more for better quality, but reading these threads makes it really hard to get a consensus on what is the best to very-good option. Is the PET Crystal from China a great screen, or just cheaper than some of the other ALR options?
> Thanks in advance for any feedback/insight.


If you have dedicated theater room with no ambient light, there's no need for ALR screen. Just use traditional fixed screen or go acoustic transparent screen. The lowest I would go for the screen would be around 1.5 feet from the ground. With 7' height, the max height is 5.5 feet including frame. If you want to maximize the screen size, go for thin bezel fixed frame.


----------



## tovaxxx

I repeat myself. A special screen is necessary for a UST, otherwise the reflections will go to the ceiling and not to the viewer.


----------



## gostocks

zaselim said:


> Thanks, I'll check it out. Do they have full 48gbps 2.1 hdmi cables? More importantly, do I really need HDMI 2.1 with T1? Because it doesn't actually do 4k/120hz, My AV also does only 4k/60 HDCP2.2.


I think you can get away with 18gbps but depends what you expect to connect type of source to the projector. It seems certified premium 4K full spec is mostly under 20ft to keep costs down.. At least from what I see on monoprice categories. I like that they are very honest with their specs.


----------



## 3sprit

SiUse said:


> If you have the funds and decide to get the plug and play vividstorm, choose the audio transparent screen (under the actual screen there is perforated fabric to fit a center speaker behind it.


Only 23cm


----------



## Ricoflashback

tovaxxx said:


> I repeat myself. A special screen is necessary for a UST, otherwise the reflections will go to the ceiling and not to the viewer.
> View attachment 3255611


Yes - I think you’re right on this. The angle of a UST projector is very steep. The only question for me is how dark you go with your screen. I’m of the opinion that the lower gain, darker lenticular screens will give a better picture with more ambient light but will suffer loss of brightness and “pop.” Especially if most of viewing is at night. If you do not have an ALPD 4.0 projector like the Fengmi T1 - then a darker screen may help with your black floor.


----------



## rjyap

tovaxxx said:


> I repeat myself. A special screen is necessary for a UST, otherwise the reflections will go to the ceiling and not to the viewer.


That's not true. I'm using traditional Carada Brilliant white projector screen with 1.0 gain and using T1 to replacement my old Optoma HD83 long throw projector in a dedicated home theater. The image is brighter than my old long throw projector. Other users have try with woven AT screen without problem too. The only not recommended screen is perforated AT screen.


----------



## rjyap

Ricoflashback said:


> Yes - I think you’re right on this. The angle of a UST projector is very steep. The only question for me is how dark you go with your screen. I’m of the opinion that the lower gain, darker lenticular screens will give a better picture with more ambient light but will suffer loss of brightness and “pop.” Especially if most of viewing is at night. If you do not have an ALPD 4.0 projector like the Fengmi T1 - then a darker screen may help with your black floor.


If you have a dark wall and ceiling for your dedicated theater, you don't need grey screen. The usual recommendation for either UST or long throw projector is to cover the wall and ceiling in the front (min 6') with black velvet. That would absorb most of the reflection from the screen.


----------



## rooterha

rjyap said:


> That's not true. I'm using traditional Carada Brilliant white projector screen with 1.0 gain and using T1 to replacement my old Optoma HD83 long throw projector in a dedicated home theater. The image is brighter than my old long throw projector. Other users have try with woven AT screen without problem too. The only not recommended screen is perforated AT screen.


Yeah I don't know why it requires a UST screen for a dark room... it looks fine when I project it on my wall so why wouldn't it on a normal screen?


----------



## Ricoflashback

rjyap said:


> If you have a dark wall and ceiling for your dedicated theater, you don't need grey screen. The usual recommendation for either UST or long throw projector is to cover the wall and ceiling in the front (min 6') with black velvet. That would absorb most of the reflection from the screen.


I'm talking about a non-dedicated theater room - - a living room (multipurpose) with white walls and some ambient light. If I have dedicated theater room - - I'm not going with a UST projector unless the mounting options are poor for a regular throw projector. This is a key distinction. Also - - if you are in the type of environment I referenced - - I cannot see how a white screen would work properly. Again, the steep angle of a UST projector plus ambient light plus off-axis viewing is more of an issue in a multipurpose room than a dedicated theater space where you can treat the walls and close off all light.


----------



## zaselim

gostocks said:


> I think you can get away with 18gbps but depends what you expect to connect type of source to the projector. It seems certified premium 4K full spec is mostly under 20ft to keep costs down.. At least from what I see on monoprice categories. I like that they are very honest with their specs.


Yeah, their cables seem good.
My source is 4k/60 (PC, Console) with HDR10-10+/DV support. The only reason to get HDMI 2.1 is when you have both source and output with 2.1 support. My PC (GPU-rtx3090) does support hdmi 2.1 but my TV is only 4k/60 (HDR10/10+) capable and T1 also doesn't support 4k/120(hdmi 2.1), i know it has both 2.0 and 2.1 input selection but i don't think its the actual 2.1 with 4k/120. Let me know if i am wrong that hdmi 2.1 (48gbps) cable is for when you need to go beyond 4k/60 (4k/120 to 8k/60).
I was looking for hdmi 2.1 because T1 has hdmi 2.1 selection in the setting besides 1.4 and 2.0 but I released yesterday that even when you select 2.1 it only goes upto 4k/60.


----------



## zoomx2

T1 is 60hz only. Just buy a new cable test it. If not refund it.


----------



## Sunbox2408

1. Anyone who is using shield, can they recommend what display options have they selected? I just realised that it was sitting at 1080p with 60hz default while there is an option for 4k 30hz DV ready. Moving to 4k 30hz feels that some non 4k content has become grainy. Would be good to get some views.

2. When I start projector it goes to hdmi 1 selection screen (shield) however times out after 15 secs and then goes to the standard Chinese background where I have to manually select hdmi 1 from inputs menu. Is anyone experiencing this and have solved it? I do have ProjecTivy tool installed however it no longer goes to projectivy screen by default. I have also removed for shield to go to sleep from cec controls. It's not a biggie but just an annoying extra step.


----------



## humax

rooterha said:


> Yeah I don't know why it requires a UST screen for a dark room... it looks fine when I project it on my wall so why wouldn't it on a normal screen?



(13) Watch | Facebook

Gregory had originally posted a video of the T1 in a blacked out environment with the Vividstorm. You do have a point, it does not look much different for such an expensive product. However, focus and geometry would certainly suffer on a wall and even on most long throw screens. Their tensioning system is not good enough and the screen is not perfectly vertical and upright. It is not circumstantial that Gregory reports no focus issues in patterns with his T1 on the Vividstorm, whereas people with normal throw screens constantly report blurry corners. As for a plain house wall, it should at least cause some minimal color shift and I have yet to see one that is perfectly straight.


----------



## CabbageMan

lattiboy said:


> Ah! Sorry then, thought it was out in public now. Still some bugs, but overall a massive improvement. You can basically use view / display and leave it be. Perfectly calibrated IMO and no active contrast.
> 
> If they fix HDMI issue and tune up Dolby vision / HDR some more it’ll be an essentially perfect product.


I use an ATV4K and a PS4 Pro and have not had any HDMI handshake issues in weeks. Am I just getting lucky?


----------



## CabbageMan

Deanodxb said:


> I’m on original firmware and just have a ATV4K connected to HDMI 1. Everything wakes and shuts down through ATV4K menu. T1 doesn’t sleep in fact, it shuts off fully after the fans have spun down to cool the unit.


Hey I just saw your reply in the thread. Your saying the T1 turns off with your ATV? It seems like my fans spin forever and when I wake up the ATV the screen just turns on. It’s doesn’t go through the whole boot up process.

How long does it take for it to turn off for you? Maybe I just haven’t let it sit long enough for it to turn off.


----------



## whiskthecat

CabbageMan said:


> I use an ATV4K and a PS4 Pro and have not had any HDMI handshake issues in weeks. Am I just getting lucky?


Are you set to HDMI 2.1?


----------



## rooterha

humax said:


> (13) Watch | Facebook
> 
> Gregory had originally posted a video of the T1 in a blacked out environment with the Vividstorm. You do have a point, it does not look much different for such an expensive product. However, focus and geometry would certainly suffer on a wall and even on most long throw screens. Their tensioning system is not good enough and the screen is not perfectly vertical and upright. It is not circumstantial that Gregory reports no focus issues in patterns with his T1 on the Vividstorm, whereas people with normal throw screens constantly report blurry corners. As for a plain house wall, it should at least cause some minimal color shift and I have yet to see one that is perfectly straight.


I wasn't recommending using a wall... my point is if it projects fine on a wall and is viewable, it should project fine on a non UST screen.


----------



## rooterha

CabbageMan said:


> Hey I just saw your reply in the thread. Your saying the T1 turns off with your ATV? It seems like my fans spin forever and when I wake up the ATV the screen just turns on. It’s doesn’t go through the whole boot up process.
> 
> How long does it take for it to turn off for you? Maybe I just haven’t let it sit long enough for it to turn off.


Mine turns off right away with HDMI set to 2.1 on the ATV 4k


----------



## humax

rooterha said:


> I wasn't recommending using a wall... my point is if it projects fine on a wall and is viewable, it should project fine on a non UST screen.



YMMV. I was originally using my 2016 UST for two years on a plain white wall. Image was blurry, too bright and black scenes were abysmal. Then I got a plain white pull down screen with a rudimentary tension system. Clearly an improvement, but left and right part of the image still slightly blurry. Now, with a fixed frame ALR, it is the first time my mediocre contrast projector has decent blacks, but patterns and text are still not perfectly even and readable across the screen. I guess at all three phases I was content and had a fine picture, but the whole point of spending the bucks for a T1 and a Vividstorm is getting a high precision image and a focus as uniform as possible, otherwise what is the point?


----------



## CabbageMan

whiskthecat said:


> Are you set to HDMI 2.1?


Yes, HDMI 2.1


----------



## CabbageMan

rooterha said:


> Mine turns off right away with HDMI set to 2.1 on the ATV 4k


It completely shuts off right away? Doesn't go into sleep mode?


----------



## ProFragger

rjyap said:


> That's not true. I'm using traditional Carada Brilliant white projector screen with 1.0 gain and using T1 to replacement my old Optoma HD83 long throw projector in a dedicated home theater. The image is brighter than my old long throw projector. Other users have try with woven AT screen without problem too. The only not recommended screen is perforated AT screen.


Do you mind sharing a picture of your screen? Interesting to see that non ALR screens can be use for USTs... Never knew that 😊. Thank you.


----------



## rjyap

ProFragger said:


> Do you mind sharing a picture of your screen? Interesting to see that non ALR screens can be use for USTs... Never knew that 😊. Thank you.











Here's my current temp setup using 114" carada BW screen. Going to change that to XYScreen SoundMax 8k acoustic transparent screen at 135" and drop the height to around 2' from the ground. 

Refer to the previous thread for the photo that I capture directly from the screen using iPhone 12.








Formovie Fengmi T1


Why SDR and not HDR? I need more time to tweak in HDR mode as I’m not sure the behavior of HDR mapping for T1. Plus color looks a bit off and might need 3D LUT profile to correct. Here’s the photo taken directly from iPhone 12 and only tweak the warm color to match what I see on screen. The...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## rjyap

Here’s some photo showing the image and reflection in properly treated HT room with conventional screen. There’s no advantage in using grey screen or ALR screen for dedicated HT room. There's a misconception here that the screen is a canvas, not mirror. ALR screen design does reject ambient light from the top but useless in a blacken HT room. 
You can see the black for ALPD 4.0 DLP is quite impressive. Much better than long throw DLP projector.


----------



## Sibyl Chou

rjyap said:


> View attachment 3256096
> 
> View attachment 3256097
> 
> Here’s some photo showing the image and reflection in properly treated HT room with conventional screen. There’s no advantage in using grey screen or ALR screen for dedicated HT room. There's a misconception here that the screen is a canvas, not mirror. ALR screen design does reject ambient light from the top but useless in a blacken HT room.
> You can see the black for ALPD 4.0 DLP is quite impressive. Much better than long throw DLP projector.


that's amazing


----------



## 3sprit

rjyap said:


> Here’s some photo showing the image and reflection in properly treated HT room with conventional screen


Don’t you have problems with the hotspot?


----------



## humax

rjyap said:


> There’s no advantage in using grey screen or ALR screen for dedicated HT room. There's a misconception here that the screen is a canvas, not mirror. ALR screen design does reject ambient light from the top but useless in a blacken HT room.
> You can see the black for ALPD 4.0 DLP is quite impressive. Much better than long throw DLP projector.



Even if you have managed to perfectly black out your room (which is a bit of an illusion, because most times there are reflections unseen to the naked eye), your white screen (I assume it has a typical gain of 1) gives you the full blast of T1's theoretical 2800 ANSI Lumens. Apart from the ALR effect, the second function of such a screen is to cut down unwanted brightness (all modern USTs are on the brighter side) thus further improving on-screen contrast and lowering the black floor. There is a reason an ALR screen with a negative gain (0.6 for 120" and 0.4 for 100") is deemed the right partner for an UST, blackened room or not. It absorbs the unnecessary light up to 120", which worsens contrast and 0.6 gain or lower gives you no hot-spotting. The only valid reasons for getting a white screen with UST is cost and going well above 150".

P.S. In your first pic, there seems to be light leakage in the upper dark bar and the black floor is elevated. An ALR would help with that. The T1 is still no JVC, it needs all the help from the screen it can get.


----------



## rjyap

3sprit said:


> Don’t you have problems with the hotspot?


Nope. Hotspot only happen for high gain screen.


----------



## humax

rjyap said:


> Nope. Hotspot only happen for high gain screen.





tovaxxx said:


> She had spotlight in the picture. I think due to the gain of 0.85. Also the swallowing of light from above did not work as well as with the Vividstorm. When you look at the screen from above on the Vividstorm, it appears almost black. This was not the case with the ScreenPro. It was merely gray. The flashlight test confirmed that.





tovaxxx said:


> No light spot on the wall. But when I move my position to the side, the light spot also moves on the screen. I am not satisfied with that.
> 
> The seller's answer: “You can really lower the brightness of the projector. Hotspots appear on the screen. Such situations are rarely encountered, which can also have something to do with the projector. You can turn on the light at night "
> 
> 
> View attachment 3222072
> View attachment 3222070
> View attachment 3222071




Check out the above posts. He had hot-spotting with a 0.85 gain ALR.


----------



## rjyap

humax said:


> Even if you have managed to perfectly black out your room (which is a bit of an illusion, because most times there are reflections unseen to the naked eye), your white screen (I assume it has a typical gain of 1) gives you the full blast of T1's theoretical 2800 ANSI Lumens. Apart from the ALR effect, the second function of such a screen is to cut down unwanted brightness (all modern USTs are on the brighter side) thus further improving on-screen contrast and lowering the black floor. There is a reason an ALR screen with a negative gain (0.6 for 120" and 0.4 for 100") is deemed the right partner for an UST, blackened room or not. It absorbs the unnecessary light up to 120", which worsens contrast and 0.6 gain or lower gives you no hot-spotting. The only valid reasons for getting a white screen with UST is cost and going well above 150".
> 
> P.S. In your first pic, there seems to be light leakage in the upper dark bar and the black floor is elevated. An ALR would help with that. The T1 is still no JVC, it needs all the help from the screen it can get.


The only reason to get ALR screen if you don't have a batcave HT. No reason to spend extra for proper HT room. As for negative gain, you can get that for normal screen too. There's grey negative screen that's much cheaper than ALR if you think it's too bright. My new screen SoundMax 8k white which is 0.7 gain for 135" size. As for Fengmi T1 light output, once it's tune to be color accurate I would expect the light output to be below 2000 lumens. Also possible to switch the laser light to lower output by switching mode (view, night etc). I would prefer brighter picture for HDR close to 150 nits if possible. SDR should be at least 100 nits.

Just to recap, most of you guys are using Fengmi T1 in living room which I agree ALR is the proper screen for your setup. I'm just showing if anyone with properly treated HT, UST projector will work with normal projection screen.


----------



## JereyWolf

3sprit said:


> Don’t you have problems with the hotspot?


My LSP9T had a pretty annoying hotspot even on my 0.4 gain screen.
It seemed to be due to poor chassis design though because I nearly eliminated it by putting a cut up mousepad right to the edge of the light....just touching the edge of the visible image.

(maybe I have a different idea of what a hot spot is)


----------



## rjyap

humax said:


> Check out the above posts. He had hot-spotting with a 0.85 gain ALR.


Most likely that ALR screen material have added some reflective particle which give the hot-spotting (which is why the gain is higher than other ALR screen which is around 0.6 gain). For normal screen, normally 1.3 gain and below doesn't have the added reflective particle. You do not want reflective screen for high lumens laser projector to avoid hot spotting and laser speckles.


----------



## humax

rjyap said:


> There's grey negative screen that's much cheaper than ALR if you think it's too bright. My new screen SoundMax 8k white which is 0.7 gain for 135" size.




Grey is also a contrast-enhancing/light reducing type of screen too with lesser ALR qualities, so yes it is the second best choice, much better than a plain white screen anyway. If you use the projector solely at night and not as a Laser TV with daylight, grey will be fine in a blackened room. However, I see the screen you mentioned is also white with a gain of 1.0. What is the difference to your current screen, apart from being bigger and AT? It is not cheap either.


8K SoundMax Woven Acoustically Transparent Bright White Fabric For AT Electric Recessed In Ceiling Projector Screen, WAT 1|Projection Screens| - AliExpress


----------



## rjyap

> Check out the above posts. He had hot-spotting with a 0.85 gain ALR.


Most likely that ALR screen material have added some reflective particle which give the hot-spotting (which is why the gain is higher than other ALR screen which is around 0.6 gain). For normal screen, normally 1.3 gain and below doesn't have the added reflective particle which is matte white. You do not want reflective screen for high lumens laser projector to avoid hot spotting and laser speckles.



humax said:


> Grey is also a contrast-enhancing/light reducing type of screen too with lesser ALR qualities, so yes it is the second best choice, much better than a plain white screen anyway. If you use the projector solely at night and not as a Laser TV with daylight, grey will be fine in a blackened room. However, I see the screen you mentioned is also white with a gain of 1.0. What is the difference to your current screen, apart from being bigger and AT?
> 
> 8K SoundMax Woven Acoustically Transparent Bright White Fabric For AT Electric Recessed In Ceiling Projector Screen, WAT 1|Projection Screens| - AliExpress


Grey doesn't increase contrast for dark room. Yes it does reduce the black level but it also reduce the white level too. So the contrast ratio is always the same regardless of white or grey screen. My room always dark regardless day or night and the photo I taken above is during 2pm afternoon. You can't even tell it's daytime if I turn all the light off. The new screen is 0.7 gain but actually I prefer 1.0 gain. Most AT screen is negative gain. The upgrade would be bigger size, plus shifting the screen lower 2' from the ground which should be more comfortable viewing angle. Also my front and center speakers are matching model so the sound will be coming behind from the screen with no tonal shift when panning from left to right. Also the projector will not block the speakers as it will be 2ft from the ground.


----------



## humax

rjyap said:


> Grey doesn't increase contrast for dark room. Yes it does reduce the black level but it also reduce the white level too.


The grey screen certainly gives an impression of a improved contrast in total blackout compared to a plain white screen. Reduced white level is usually not a problem, most projectors nowadays have the headroom brightness to deal with it. There are no lightcandle-projectors anymore. I still remember my 720p DLP from 2003. It was too dark for anything above 90".

As for your new screen, I am confused. If it is 0.7 gain, why it does not say so in its specs?


----------



## rjyap

humax said:


> The grey screen certainly gives an impression of a improved contrast in total blackout compared to a plain white screen. Reduced white level is usually not a problem, most projectors nowadays have the headroom brightness to deal with it. There are no lightcandle-projectors anymore. I still remember my 720p DLP from 2003. It was too dark for anything above 90".
> 
> As for your new screen, I am confused. If it is 0.7 gain, why it does not say so in its specs?


Here's the great work done by PixelPusher15 measuring different AT screen gain and acoustic attenuation. I never trust manufacturer specification. 









[Updated 10/21/21] 31 Acoustically Transparent Screen...


[10/21/21 Update] Thank you to those that have followed along and have given such incredible feedback. Below is my updated and much improved results. More materials were added and a couple were removed. I believe many will find these results much more thorough. If you would like to jump to the...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## Ricoflashback

rjyap said:


> View attachment 3256096
> 
> View attachment 3256097
> 
> Here’s some photo showing the image and reflection in properly treated HT room with conventional screen. There’s no advantage in using grey screen or ALR screen for dedicated HT room. There's a misconception here that the screen is a canvas, not mirror. ALR screen design does reject ambient light from the top but useless in a blacken HT room.
> You can see the black for ALPD 4.0 DLP is quite impressive. Much better than long throw DLP projector.


Out of curiosity, why would you go with a UST Projector in a dedicated HT room? Too difficult to setup the mounting of a regular throw projector?


----------



## Ricoflashback

To confirm what Brian said about the gain on the XY Screens ALR Pet Crystal screen -









Amazon.com: Mirageview Screen Thin Bezel Ambient Light Rejecting Fixed Frame Projection Projector Screen, PET Crystal, 120-inch Diagonal 16:9 for Ultra Short Throw Projector : Electronics


Amazon.com: Mirageview Screen Thin Bezel Ambient Light Rejecting Fixed Frame Projection Projector Screen, PET Crystal, 120-inch Diagonal 16:9 for Ultra Short Throw Projector : Electronics



www.amazon.com


----------



## rjyap

Ricoflashback said:


> Out of curiosity, why would you go with a UST Projector in a dedicated HT room? Too difficult to setup the mounting of a regular throw projector?


Cause there's no long throw projector under USD 3k with tri-laser that cover 90% rec 2020 and 3000:1 contrast ratio. Plus the high lumens output means I could finally upsize the screen size to 135" the biggest I could fit for my room size. Almost pull the trigger on LG HU810PW but the low contrast and not even 100% DCI-P3 make me think twice.


----------



## Ricoflashback

rjyap said:


> Cause there's no long throw projector under USD 3k with tri-laser that cover 90% rec 2020 and 3000:1 contrast ratio. I almost pull the trigger on LG HU810PW but the low contrast and not even 100% DCI-P3 make me think twice.


Got it. Understood. If I had your room, I would seriously consider the Epson 12000 even though it's a couple grand higher than the Fengmi T1. That's a great room that is optimized for a theater! I could see the biggest scope screen with speakers behind it. Much better than any movie theater! The popcorn and drinks are cheaper, too. No waiting in line at the restroom.


----------



## rjyap

Ricoflashback said:


> Got it. Understood. If I had your room, I would seriously consider the Epson 12000 even though it's a couple grand higher than the Fengmi T1. That's a great room that is optimized for a theater! I could see the biggest scope screen with speakers behind it. Much better than any movie theater! The popcorn and drinks are cheaper, too. No waiting in line at the restroom.


When I got the T1, Epson 12000 is not out yet. But still T1 is only half the price. Contrast will be Epson 12000 greatest strength vs T1. Sharpness and wide color gamut will favor T1. So choose your poison.

No food in the theater room. Wouldn't want it to be infested by cockroach. The best part is I could pause the movie for restroom break vs holding it in commercial cinema during exciting scene


----------



## Ricoflashback

rjyap said:


> When I got the T1, Epson 12000 is not out yet. But still T1 is only half the price. Contrast will be Epson 12000 greatest strength vs T1. Sharpness and wide color gamut will favor T1. So choose your poison.
> 
> No food in the theater room. Wouldn't want it to be infested by cockroach. The best part is I could pause the movie for restroom break vs holding it in commercial cinema during exciting scene


Cockroach? They must like theater rooms where you are. For our next place, I won't have the luxury of a separate theater room. Hence my interest in the Fengmi T1. But if I did have room, I'd get a scope screen with the Epson 12000. Great warranty and super reviews. Still half the price of a JVC projector.


----------



## 3sprit

JereyWolf said:


> (maybe I have a different idea of what a hot spot is)
> 
> View attachment 3256120
> 
> View attachment 3256121


I mean this (first link found ...):








What is the Projector Hotspot? 4 Ways to Fix this Issue


If you have ever seen a bright circle of light in the middle of your projector screen, you have seen a projector hotspot. What you might not know is that the hotspot is often a result of the way that…




pointerclicker.com


----------



## heavyharmonies

Do any of the ALPD 4.0 USTs support 3D? The Fengmi T1 does not, as far as I can tell.


----------



## humax

heavyharmonies said:


> Do any of the ALPD 4.0 USTs support 3D? The Fengmi T1 does not, as far as I can tell.



The VAVA Chroma does it right now. There was a statement from a Fengmi manager a while back that the T1 international version will also offer 3D support, but it might be just bogus.


----------



## rooterha

My Vividstorm arrived non-functional. Doesn't rise when pressing up, only makes a single clicking sound. Hoping they take care of me...


----------



## Brajesh

humax said:


> The VAVA Chroma does it right now. There was a statement from a Fengmi manager a while back that the T1 international version will also offer 3D support, but it might be just bogus.


Not very good 3D however. I had the Chroma for about a month, until mid-January, and 3D performance didn't have level of depth, separation I've seen from others DLP's. The best UST w/3D right now IMHO is the ALPD3.0 Wemax A300.


----------



## humax

rooterha said:


> My Vividstorm arrived non-functional. Doesn't rise when pressing up, only makes a single clicking sound. Hoping they take care of me...



Read the following thread in case it is helpful to you. It seems like two other owners had a similar problem.

(1) Faulty or User Error? Vividstorm S PRO Electric Tension Floor Screen : projectors (reddit.com)


----------



## humax

Brajesh said:


> Not very good 3D however. I had the Chroma for about a month, until mid-January, and 3D performance didn't have level of depth, separation I've seen from others DLP's. The best UST w/3D right now IMHO is the ALPD3.0 Wemax A300.




Wasn't there supposed to be a new firmware from VAVA for improving black levels and 3D performance? They seem quite regular with their releases, but I stopped monitoring the Chroma thread as soon as T1 came out.


----------



## Brajesh

Stopped monitoring as well. Just took a look at their Facebook group, and there seems to be mixed impressions on 3D quality.


----------



## JereyWolf

Is everyone without beta firmware still on version 1.4.6.1938?


----------



## rooterha

humax said:


> Read the following thread in case it is helpful to you. It seems like two other owners had a similar problem.
> 
> (1) Faulty or User Error? Vividstorm S PRO Electric Tension Floor Screen : projectors (reddit.com)


Thanks - I tried something similar but no luck so far  Hoping they have some options for me gonna suck to wait and ship it back.


----------



## zoomx2

JereyWolf said:


> Is everyone without beta firmware still on version 1.4.6.1938?


I’m quite surprised they haven’t push it as official firmware yet since it is such a huge improvement overall.


----------



## JereyWolf

zoomx2 said:


> I’m quite surprised they haven’t push it as official firmware yet since it is such a huge improvement overall.


I just sent an email to request it.

Btw...I just set up my T1, it looks so good.
I didn't know what I was missing with my previous projectors.


----------



## chrisdu46

JereyWolf said:


> Is everyone without beta firmware still on version 1.4.6.1938?


Yes ! I can't wait for the firmware to come out.
It was supposed to be available around mid-March and last I heard, Fengmi should release it this week...


----------



## JereyWolf

Is there a way to display what the projector sees as the incoming signal?
Like an info button?


----------



## Gig'em ATX

humax said:


> The VAVA Chroma does it right now. There was a statement from a Fengmi manager a while back that the T1 international version will also offer 3D support, but it might be just bogus.


Is it a good sign that there are Fengmi 3D glasses?


----------



## gen_x

Hi everyone is this the new upgraded T1? Shows more lumens etc


C$ 3,685.03 34%OFF | 2022 Fengmi Formovie Panchromatic 4K Laser Projector T1 2800 ANSI Lumens MEMC HDR10 ALPD RGB 3G+64G Dolby Verison Home Theater








2790.84US $ 34% OFF|Fengmi Formovie T1 Full Color 4k Laser Projector 2800ansi Lumen Memc Alpd Rgb Dolby Vision Ultra Short Throw Beamer Home Theater - Home Theatre System - AliExpress


Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com




a.aliexpress.com


----------



## Sunbox2408

Got reply from fengmi about the release today. Note the hdmi handshake question was ignored 😬


----------



## Sunbox2408

gen_x said:


> Hi everyone is this the new upgraded T1? Shows more lumens etc
> 
> 
> C$ 3,685.03 34%OFF | 2022 Fengmi Formovie Panchromatic 4K Laser Projector T1 2800 ANSI Lumens MEMC HDR10 ALPD RGB 3G+64G Dolby Verison Home Theater
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2790.84US $ 34% OFF|Fengmi Formovie T1 Full Color 4k Laser Projector 2800ansi Lumen Memc Alpd Rgb Dolby Vision Ultra Short Throw Beamer Home Theater - Home Theatre System - AliExpress
> 
> 
> Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> a.aliexpress.com


I think it is the same T1 , lumen have always been 2800 ansi.


----------



## humax

gen_x said:


> Hi everyone is this the new upgraded T1? Shows more lumens etc



It does say English version, but no mention of Android 11 and the rest of the specs are the same. Perhaps, they advertise setting the current model's menu in English? I don't think it is the global version, since we don't expect to hear anything about it before late April/early May.


----------



## Grumi

There was mention of the global version in March/April some time ago on Gregory's blog but @humax , you mention late April/May. Is it delayed or is there new information about the release?


----------



## humax

Grumi said:


> Is it delayed or is there new information about the release?



No, my friend. It's just my rough guess, since I am in the dark and waiting to buy it like everyone else in this thread. I expected some on-line stores to have it for pre-order by now, but alas. Sorry for the confusion.


----------



## Grumi

humax said:


> No, my friend. It's just my rough guess, since I am in the dark and waiting to buy it like everyone else in this thread. I expected some on-line stores to have it for pre-order by now, but alas. Sorry for the confusion.


No worries. I'm, just super impatient as I just moved and have neither TV nor projector at the moment.
I'm ready to pay a premium but I definitely hope the improvements made to the firmware of the current version will also be implemented and that Android 11 will allow more controls.


----------



## gostocks

Sunbox2408 said:


> Got reply from fengmi about the release today. Note the hdmi handshake question was ignored 😬
> View attachment 3256497


Standard reply every week they don't release..


----------



## gostocks

Grumi said:


> There was mention of the global version in March/April some time ago on Gregory's blog but @humax , you mention late April/May. Is it delayed or is there new information about the release?


With supply chain issues...I wouldn't hold my breath. Honestly just get the China version if you can and use streaming box for Netflix, etc. Even with global version I doubt Netflix 4k will work...


----------



## humax

gostocks said:


> With supply chain issues...I wouldn't hold my breath. Honestly just get the China version if you can and use streaming box for Netflix, etc. Even with global version I doubt Netflix 4k will work...



You do have a point. There are delays with all consumer products. The Chinese version is already available right now and the price is right in the States, where you can get it without custom charges. However, for me in Europe the Chinese T1 is 400$ more, so I still have to at least check out the official specs for the global version in order to make an educated decision. I am also not willing to pay premium for it, just 400-500$ more than the Chinese T1 tops. If it goes for more than that, then Chinese version it is. One thing I most certainly don't want to do is trying to flash the Chinese version with an international version firmware just to save the extra money. I am not good at this sort of thing and I 'll probably end up with a bricked projector. So, I will wait for a little while to see if the global version rumors are true.

As for official android 11 and Netflix/Prime 4K, there is a good chance they will work without the need for an extra box. Xiaomi's new tv stick got officially 4k certified for these services.

Xiaomi TV Stick 4K review: Small step for streaming, giant leap for Xiaomi (androidauthority.com)


----------



## Ricoflashback

Grumi said:


> There was mention of the global version in March/April some time ago on Gregory's blog but @humax , you mention late April/May. Is it delayed or is there new information about the release?


Does anybody know Gregory? Maybe reach out to him? It would be nice to see him post on this thread.


----------



## nas19

Ricoflashback said:


> Does anybody know Gregory? Maybe reach out to him? It would be nice to see him post on this thread.


I contacted Gregory few days ago to get his understanding on the global version. However, I only asked about the alleged 3D support, for which he was pretty sure that it won't happen. I only wanted to check since we saw a Fengmi engineer mention this in a video interview, but as @humax mentioned earlier, it might just be bogus.


----------



## GaeIta80

A nice video about the loving combo T1 + Vividstorm UST screen with lights on. And thumbs up for the Dolby soundstage 😍






P.s. Not sure if shot using old or new beta firmware


----------



## rooterha

Looks like my Vividstorm is DOA - everything they had me try isn't working. I'm scared to take it apart any further than I already have so I guess I wait for the painful exchange process...


----------



## Ricoflashback

rooterha said:


> Looks like my Vividstorm is DOA - everything they had me try isn't working. I'm scared to take it apart any further than I already have so I guess I wait for the painful exchange process...


I'm sorry to hear about your experience. Like I've said in the past - - sometimes folks have no other choice but to have a Vividstorm like product. But the mechanical failure aspect would scare me away big time. Even more than an electronic screen that simply goes up and down (which is still wear and tear on a motor,) the Vividstorm design is prone to failure, IMHO. It's not an issue of "if," it's just "when." If at all possible - - if you can get a full refund and go with a fixed screen - - that's what I would do. I don't know who you bought the product through (U.S. vendor or non U.S.) but if you decide to replace it with the same product - - maybe you can find a local vendor or AV shop that sells them? Yes, the price will be higher but if it fails, it's easier to have the AV shop pick it up and replace it with a new one. 

Sorry again for the DOA Vividstorm. That sucks - - and takes away the buzz of a new projector.


----------



## rooterha

Ricoflashback said:


> I'm sorry to hear about your experience. Like I've said in the past - - sometimes folks have no other choice but to have a Vividstorm like product. But the mechanical failure aspect would scare me away big time. Even more than an electronic screen that simply goes up and down (which is still wear and tear on a motor,) the Vividstorm design is prone to failure, IMHO. It's not an issue of "if," it's just "when." If at all possible - - if you can get a full refund and go with a fixed screen - - that's what I would do. I don't know who you bought the product through (U.S. vendor or non U.S.) but if you decide to replace it with the same product - - maybe you can find a local vendor or AV shop that sells them? Yes, the price will be higher but if it fails, it's easier to have the AV shop pick it up and replace it with a new one.
> 
> Sorry again for the DOA Vividstorm. That sucks - - and takes away the buzz of a new projector.


Yeah agreed - I'm starting to feel the same way. I had no idea there was no manual way to raise it in case of failure, that's alarming. I figured at the least there'd be some way to crank it up even if slow haha. 

Will check my options...


----------



## humax

rooterha said:


> Looks like my Vividstorm is DOA - everything they had me try isn't working. I'm scared to take it apart any further than I already have so I guess I wait for the painful exchange process...



Bummer! This should not happen with such an expensive screen, nor should you have to waste your time messing with it with a screwdriver, trying to find out what's wrong. Obviously, something is jamming the motor and prevents the screen from unfolding properly. They should be testing each separate screen out of the factory, before packaging and sending all 40kg of it to its potential owner on the other side of the world. This does not seem to be the case judging by your experience and the two reddit owners'. Their QC does not seem to keep up with the high prices. Rather disappointing!


----------



## mirzank

humax said:


> One thing I most certainly don't want to do is trying to flash the Chinese version with an international version firmware just to save the extra money. I am not good at this sort of thing and I 'll probably end up with a bricked projector. So, I will wait for a little while to see if the global version rumors are true.


for those that have experience with these projectors and the firmware, is it usually possible to update the older android and Chinese firmware to newer versions of international firmware with newer android or are they locked in some way ? I would think it’s exactly the same hardware so should be possible unless bootloqdeds etc are fully locked down. 
[/QUOTE]


----------



## rooterha

humax said:


> Bummer! This should not happen with such an expensive screen, nor should you have to waste your time messing with it with a screwdriver, trying to find out what's wrong. Obviously, something is jamming the motor and prevents the screen from unfolding properly. They should be testing each separate screen out of the factory, before packaging and sending all 40kg of it to its potential owner on the other side of the world. This does not seem to be the case judging by your experience and the two reddit owners'. Their QC does not seem to keep up with the high prices. Rather disappointing!


Haha right? At first I didn't care cause I just wanted it to work but at some point I'm thinking "my time is valuable, why am i doing this?"

Oh well, let's see what happens.


----------



## nas19

mirzank said:


> for those that have experience with these projectors and the firmware, is it usually possible to update the older android and Chinese firmware to newer versions of international firmware with newer android or are they locked in some way ? I would think it’s exactly the same hardware so should be possible unless bootloqdeds etc are fully locked down.


I don't think this is so straightforward even if it has the same hardware(which it usually won't). I have the Chinese version of a Xiaomi LED projector, but it's international version, even though looks exactly same, had entirely different hardware.

I guess not even rooting is possible in these projectors with the Android 9 version, but @spocky12 has the best understanding in this regard.


----------



## herry2022

Should be get the Fengos V2 Soon.






【峰米投影FengOS智能生态系统2.0升级进化】PjTime.COM 新品快讯


伴随2.0版本的上线，FengOS通过加入更多领先的智慧功能，并对系统持续优化，在探索大屏娱乐观影的创新之路上全速前进，将用户体验提升至新阶段。



www-pjtime-com.translate.goog


----------



## m0j0

herry2022 said:


> Should be get the Fengos V2 Soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 【峰米投影FengOS智能生态系统2.0升级进化】PjTime.COM 新品快讯
> 
> 
> 伴随2.0版本的上线，FengOS通过加入更多领先的智慧功能，并对系统持续优化，在探索大屏娱乐观影的创新之路上全速前进，将用户体验提升至新阶段。
> 
> 
> 
> www-pjtime-com.translate.goog


Thanks for the heads up!


----------



## ted_b

Is this "one shot to screen" function a real tool to use, or something to stay away from cuz it likely uses software keystoning, etc?


----------



## okvcos

m0j0 said:


> Thanks for the heads up!


i hope Xiaomi C2 follows the same path


----------



## rooterha

Seems like they're really putting in some serious effort. Hopefully it continues.

I saw ProjecTivy Tools should be coming once 2.0 is released? How good is that? From a quick glance it seems like it gives most of the features we'd want?


----------



## m0j0

ted_b said:


> Is this "one shot to screen" function a real tool to use, or something to stay away from cuz it likely uses software keystoning, etc?


I would expect it to rely upon the keystone function, but just in a more user friendly way. My previous HiSense UST had a similar feature/function.


----------



## rooterha

I've yet to be able to get a UST 100% perfect without any adjustment. Hisense and Fengmi were mostly minor but it is what it is. Maybe I'm degrading the picture slightly but I'm not patient enough.


----------



## 3sprit

m0j0 said:


> I would expect it to rely upon the keystone function, but just in a more user friendly way. My previous HiSense UST had a similar feature/function.


Samsung too


----------



## Ricoflashback

I saw this on Facebook. Everyone will shop for the best price on the Fengmi T1 but does anyone else have this type of warranty? Good as long as the company is around, I surmise.


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> I saw this on Facebook. Everyone will shop for the best price on the Fengmi T1 but does anyone else have this type of warranty? Good as long as the company is around, I surmise.
> 
> View attachment 3256653


That's pretty impressive!


----------



## rooterha

Ricoflashback said:


> I saw this on Facebook. Everyone will shop for the best price on the Fengmi T1 but does anyone else have this type of warranty? Good as long as the company is around, I surmise.
> 
> View attachment 3256653


Yeah I saw that after I ordered from WuPro - would have probably bought from them if I had seen it first.


----------



## mirzank

The nothingbutlabel team just put up a t1 vs 4k max comparison. Fengmi 4k Max vs Fengmi T1, side by side compare
To me it actually seems like the 4k max (assuming it’s on the left) has a better quality picture. Could it be they are using the older firmware/some different in lighting or other setup conditions ? I project on a wall and while I don’t watch that much daytime tv it still seems the 4k max would produce a better picture during the day. 
anything that may make this test inaccurate ? May keep the t1 for my bedroom and get a 4k max for livig room if the test seems accurate.


----------



## zoomx2

All T1 owners here know how good this UST are. No needs to post old comparison with other UST. Anyone in the market looking for UST it is the best value no doubt. Can wait for global version but who know how much it goes up.


----------



## rooterha

Isn't the max nearly double the price? Of course the max will have a better picture during the day... it's like 4500 lumens lol. That's what it's built for. 

It does look like the old firmware on the T1 (lots of red) but not sure. Also hard to tell anything scientific looking at these kinds of videos.


----------



## Ricoflashback

mirzank said:


> The nothingbutlabel team just put up a t1 vs 4k max comparison. Fengmi 4k Max vs Fengmi T1, side by side compare
> To me it actually seems like the 4k max (assuming it’s on the left) has a better quality picture. Could it be they are using the older firmware/some different in lighting or other setup conditions ? I project on a wall and while I don’t watch that much daytime tv it still seems the 4k max would produce a better picture during the day.
> anything that may make this test inaccurate ? May keep the t1 for my bedroom and get a 4k max for livig room if the test seems accurate.


I asked about that directly on the Facebook page. If you read closely, they are not taken under the same light conditions. Not even the same day! So while I like Eric and NothingButLabel - - it's really not a good test or post reference, IMHO. In fact, look closely and you can see more light pouring in on the right side of the picture where the Fengmi T1 is!!!


----------



## Timothyyy

mirzank said:


> The nothingbutlabel team just put up a t1 vs 4k max comparison. Fengmi 4k Max vs Fengmi T1, side by side compare
> To me it actually seems like the 4k max (assuming it’s on the left) has a better quality picture. Could it be they are using the older firmware/some different in lighting or other setup conditions ? I project on a wall and while I don’t watch that much daytime tv it still seems the 4k max would produce a better picture during the day.
> anything that may make this test inaccurate ? May keep the t1 for my bedroom and get a 4k max for livig room if the test seems accurate.


All highlight details in 4kmax are blown out.


----------



## jorgemurillo2012

jhav1 said:


> Just ordered the T1 online and have a few questions that I'm hoping somebody can support me with. I have searched all over and can't seem to find a user manual that would probably answer many of these -- If I missed a link or a post, it would be great if you could share.
> 
> Here is some background:
> 
> My setup is in a basement with no windows and some overhead lights. Ceiling is 7' tall.
> Currently have a 106" Elite Screens for a traditional LT Epson projector. The height of this screen (with border) is just under 57" --- I have roughly 2' free space below and 4" above this current screen.
> I have a wall-mounted center speaker - Definitive Tech Mythos 9 - that is currently mounted below my screen. It protrudes from the wall by ~3/5". Ideally, I'd like to keep this speaker wall mounted (can move it down a bit if needed), but am willing to relocate it to a table to sit above/below the T1 if needed.
> Here are my questions:
> 
> I'd like to get a larger screen --- for a 120" screen, how far below the screen does the T1 need to sit? How far away from the wall does it sit? If I can't make a 120 work, I'll try to find a 110" instead.
> Might be hard for you to say, but if I keep my current center speaker mounted to the wall, will the 3.5" protrusion block the light from the T1, or is the T1 beam far enough away as to not impact it?
> Any screen recommendation? I'd rather spend a few $$ more for better quality, but reading these threads makes it really hard to get a consensus on what is the best to very-good option. Is the PET Crystal from China a great screen, or just cheaper than some of the other ALR options?
> Thanks in advance for any feedback/insight.


How much you got it for if you don't mind me asking


----------



## zaselim

rooterha said:


> Yeah I saw that after I ordered from WuPro - would have probably bought from them if I had seen it first.


I bought it from Wupro and I also have 3 year warranty, it is also mentioned on the invoice. Mine expected to arrive from 10 to 17th March, It was held back because of lockdown delay, now the expected dates are between 21st to 27th March. Tracking shows its in Incheon, Korea right now.


----------



## CabbageMan

Hey everyone. I am planning on building a custom entertainment stand for my T1 but need a little advice from anyone who is a little more tech savvy than me. How much space should there be on each side of the T1 to allow proper ventilation? The shelf it will sit on will be open in the front.


----------



## rooterha

zaselim said:


> I bought it from Wupro and I also have 3 year warranty, it is also mentioned on the invoice. Mine expected to arrive from 10 to 17th March, It was held back because of lockdown delay, now the expected dates are between 21st to 27th March. Tracking shows its in Incheon, Korea right now.


Yes it has a 3 year warranty but they don't cover shipping.


----------



## jhav1

SiUse said:


> If you have the funds and decide to get the plug and play vividstorm, choose the audio transparent screen (under the actual screen there is perforated fabric to fit a center speaker behind it.


 Thanks everybody for your feedback and suggestions. $$$ isn't going to be my primary driver - I'll spend what is necessary to arrive at a solid setup that I expect to last a few years. My primary concern is to ensure that I don't spend $$ on something that will be disappointing or difficult to get very good results from. 

Here are a few additional points in response:

While my setup is in the basement and is windowless, it is not a dedicated HT room. The walls are currently beige and the recessed lights are typically on while the room is occupied. My current setup is an Epson 3700 overhead LT projector with a 106" Sable Elite Cinewhite screen. I have L/C/R speakers mounted to the wall to the sides and below the screen. I am able to adjust/move all of those speakers fairly easilly. 
90% of the time, this setup is used to watch live sports (via a 4k capable TIVO STB). 
FWIW, my audio setup is 9.2.4
As mentioned, my wall is 7' tall and I was hoping to squeeze a 120" screen in - I'm not sure I can get the math to work out and may be forced to look at 110" (I don't want to go any smaller).

It looks like there are 3 options for me
1) The 'drop-down' Vividstorm version is 6.6' tall when fully extended, but that includes 1.1' of black fabric at the top. Does anybody know if the screen NEEDS to be fully extended to function/stretch properly, or could I simply not extend it fully such that some of the black fabric remains in the housing. If this were an option, it would provide me with ~1.5' below the screen where I'd need to place my CC and the T1. Is this enough clearance for the T1? 

2) Alternatively, the floor rising, acoustically transparent version of the Vividstorm reaches ~6.2' tall when fully extended I would have the option of sitting this on the floor, or building a small shelf to raise it up a bit. I would likely be able to leave my CC mounted to the wall behind the AT material (I may need to adjust it down slightly to make it fit). My biggest concern with this setup is that the screen will need to be pulled away from the wall a bit which will shorten the viewing distance by around half a foot which I'm not crazy about --- I'm also concerned (perhaps ignorantly) of the aesthetics of having a free-standing portable screen in what is a tight area. 

3) The 3rd option would be a traditional fixed 120" screen. The XY ALR PET Crystal is ~5.1' tall which would give me the maximum about of room to maintain a wall-mounted CC and have the T1 below. This type of setup is what I had been leaning towards before coming to this thread, but there seems to be concern from several of you that a fixed screen with the T1 (or any UST) may be problematic from a 'perfect geometry' standpoint. Also, if I were to go this direction, is the XY screen the one to get, or are there alternative options that I should be considering? It seems like IF I am going to try to squeeze a 120" screen into my basement, this fixed setup would work best --- but as this is my first UST, I welcome your experiences and insight to steer me right. 

Thanks again for all the help and feedback.


----------



## jhav1

jorgemurillo2012 said:


> How much you got it for if you don't mind me asking


Just under $2400 all-in.


----------



## m0j0

jhav1 said:


> Thanks everybody for your feedback and suggestions. $$$ isn't going to be my primary driver - I'll spend what is necessary to arrive at a solid setup that I expect to last a few years. My primary concern is to ensure that I don't spend $$ on something that will be disappointing or difficult to get very good results from.
> 
> Here are a few additional points in response:
> 
> While my setup is in the basement and is windowless, it is not a dedicated HT room. The walls are currently beige and the recessed lights are typically on while the room is occupied. My current setup is an Epson 3700 overhead LT projector with a 106" Sable Elite Cinewhite screen. I have L/C/R speakers mounted to the wall to the sides and below the screen. I am able to adjust/move all of those speakers fairly easilly.
> 90% of the time, this setup is used to watch live sports (via a 4k capable TIVO STB).
> FWIW, my audio setup is 9.2.4
> As mentioned, my wall is 7' tall and I was hoping to squeeze a 120" screen in - I'm not sure I can get the math to work out and may be forced to look at 110" (I don't want to go any smaller).
> 
> It looks like there are 3 options for me
> 1) The 'drop-down' Vividstorm version is 6.6' tall when fully extended, but that includes 1.1' of black fabric at the top. Does anybody know if the screen NEEDS to be fully extended to function/stretch properly, or could I simply not extend it fully such that some of the black fabric remains in the housing. If this were an option, it would provide me with ~1.5' below the screen where I'd need to place my CC and the T1. Is this enough clearance for the T1?
> 
> 2) Alternatively, the floor rising, acoustically transparent version of the Vividstorm reaches ~6.2' tall when fully extended I would have the option of sitting this on the floor, or building a small shelf to raise it up a bit. I would likely be able to leave my CC mounted to the wall behind the AT material (I may need to adjust it down slightly to make it fit). My biggest concern with this setup is that the screen will need to be pulled away from the wall a bit which will shorten the viewing distance by around half a foot which I'm not crazy about --- I'm also concerned (perhaps ignorantly) of the aesthetics of having a free-standing portable screen in what is a tight area.
> 
> 3) The 3rd option would be a traditional fixed 120" screen. The XY ALR PET Crystal is ~5.1' tall which would give me the maximum about of room to maintain a wall-mounted CC and have the T1 below. This type of setup is what I had been leaning towards before coming to this thread, but there seems to be concern from several of you that a fixed screen with the T1 (or any UST) may be problematic from a 'perfect geometry' standpoint. Also, if I were to go this direction, is the XY screen the one to get, or are there alternative options that I should be considering? It seems like IF I am going to try to squeeze a 120" screen into my basement, this fixed setup would work best --- but as this is my first UST, I welcome your experiences and insight to steer me right.
> 
> Thanks again for all the help and feedback.


Fixed screen and geometry are not a concern with the T1. You will be able to get the picture to fit You may have to make a few keystone adjustments, but it will fit. The main issue you will have is your center channel and your UST will be in similar areas, so you will have to ensure you have a plan for that. Also, an ALR screen like the XYScreen will work fantastic in a light controlled room with just overhead/room lighting. Sunlight is the real challenge with any UST ALR screen, and since you're in a basement, you should be good to go.


----------



## jhav1

m0j0 said:


> The main issue you will have is your center channel and your UST will be in similar areas, so you will have to ensure you have a plan for that.


Yeah - this is the one challenge that I can't get away from with a UST. It is a shame that UST manufacturers don't provide speaker inputs which would enable the UST speaker (especially one with great reviews like the T1) to serve as the CC. My wall-mounted CC is 4.19" deep. While I am certain I can mount it below a fixed screen, it is a mystery to me IF I will be able to place (on a short shelf/table/floor) the T1 beneath and in-front of it and have the light beam clear the CC on the way to the screen. 

Worst case, I could replace my CC with a 'flatter' model (1st option) OR place it on a shelf/table in front of the T1 (not aesthetically ideal) 

Is there an online manual for the T1, or any available information that references the min/max clearance below and in-front of a screen it can be placed? I'm assuming that there is some level of manual adjustability here to move the picture up/down & zoom in/out --- am I correct?

Thanks again!


----------



## humax

rooterha said:


> Haha right? At first I didn't care cause I just wanted it to work but at some point I'm thinking "my time is valuable, why am i doing this?"
> 
> Oh well, let's see what happens.



vividstorm screen not opening - YouTube 

Is this what your screen does? Looks like a common problem.


----------



## rjyap

jhav1 said:


> Thanks everybody for your feedback and suggestions. $$$ isn't going to be my primary driver - I'll spend what is necessary to arrive at a solid setup that I expect to last a few years. My primary concern is to ensure that I don't spend $$ on something that will be disappointing or difficult to get very good results from.
> 
> Here are a few additional points in response:
> 
> While my setup is in the basement and is windowless, it is not a dedicated HT room. The walls are currently beige and the recessed lights are typically on while the room is occupied. My current setup is an Epson 3700 overhead LT projector with a 106" Sable Elite Cinewhite screen. I have L/C/R speakers mounted to the wall to the sides and below the screen. I am able to adjust/move all of those speakers fairly easilly.
> 90% of the time, this setup is used to watch live sports (via a 4k capable TIVO STB).
> FWIW, my audio setup is 9.2.4
> As mentioned, my wall is 7' tall and I was hoping to squeeze a 120" screen in - I'm not sure I can get the math to work out and may be forced to look at 110" (I don't want to go any smaller).
> 
> It looks like there are 3 options for me
> 1) The 'drop-down' Vividstorm version is 6.6' tall when fully extended, but that includes 1.1' of black fabric at the top. Does anybody know if the screen NEEDS to be fully extended to function/stretch properly, or could I simply not extend it fully such that some of the black fabric remains in the housing. If this were an option, it would provide me with ~1.5' below the screen where I'd need to place my CC and the T1. Is this enough clearance for the T1?
> 
> 2) Alternatively, the floor rising, acoustically transparent version of the Vividstorm reaches ~6.2' tall when fully extended I would have the option of sitting this on the floor, or building a small shelf to raise it up a bit. I would likely be able to leave my CC mounted to the wall behind the AT material (I may need to adjust it down slightly to make it fit). My biggest concern with this setup is that the screen will need to be pulled away from the wall a bit which will shorten the viewing distance by around half a foot which I'm not crazy about --- I'm also concerned (perhaps ignorantly) of the aesthetics of having a free-standing portable screen in what is a tight area.
> 
> 3) The 3rd option would be a traditional fixed 120" screen. The XY ALR PET Crystal is ~5.1' tall which would give me the maximum about of room to maintain a wall-mounted CC and have the T1 below. This type of setup is what I had been leaning towards before coming to this thread, but there seems to be concern from several of you that a fixed screen with the T1 (or any UST) may be problematic from a 'perfect geometry' standpoint. Also, if I were to go this direction, is the XY screen the one to get, or are there alternative options that I should be considering? It seems like IF I am going to try to squeeze a 120" screen into my basement, this fixed setup would work best --- but as this is my first UST, I welcome your experiences and insight to steer me right.
> 
> Thanks again for all the help and feedback.


If you always have top ambient light, go for option 3. Fixed screen ALR screen. Make sure the screen is around 1.5 feet from the ground and get thin bezel frame to maximize your screen size. You can check with Gloria from XY for advice on the maximum size that will fit your environment.


----------



## jeff9n

rjyap said:


> That's not true. I'm using traditional Carada Brilliant white projector screen with 1.0 gain and using T1 to replacement my old Optoma HD83 long throw projector in a dedicated home theater. The image is brighter than my old long throw projector. Other users have try with woven AT screen without problem too. The only not recommended screen is perforated AT screen.


I concur. You don't need a special ALR screen in a light controlled room. My regular white projector screen with 1.1 gain work great with Xiaomi and T1 UST.


----------



## jeff9n

ProFragger said:


> Do you mind sharing a picture of your screen? Interesting to see that non ALR screens can be use for USTs... Never knew that 😊. Thank you.


Here is my 160-in non ALR screen with the T1 UST. You will see a little light bleeding on the white ceiling. But the contrast is still damn good.
View attachment 3256809
View attachment 3256810
View attachment 3256809
View attachment 3256810


----------



## m0j0

jeff9n said:


> Here is my 160-in non ALR screen with the T1 UST. You will see a little light bleeding on the white ceiling. But the contrast is still damn good.
> View attachment 3256809
> View attachment 3256810
> View attachment 3256809
> View attachment 3256810


Party at Jeff’s house!


----------



## rjyap

jeff9n said:


> Here is my 160-in non ALR screen with the T1 UST. You will see a little light bleeding on the white ceiling. But the contrast is still damn good.


Actually that also happen with long throw projector. Before I put felt on the top of the ceiling 6' out, my painter use glossy black paint for the front ceiling. It annoy the hell out of me when watching any bright scene. My only advice is use felt to cover at least 6' ceiling out from the front wall.


----------



## m0j0

rjyap said:


> Actually that also happen with long throw projector. Before I put felt on the top of the ceiling 6' out, my painter use glossy black paint for the front ceiling. It annoy the hell out of me when watching any bright scene. My only advice is use felt to cover at least 6' ceiling out from the front wall.


Yep, triple black velvet!


----------



## humax

jeff9n said:


> Here is my 160-in non ALR screen with the T1 UST. You will see a little light bleeding on the white ceiling. But the contrast is still damn good.




Full frame material mostly looks good even with contrast-chalenged projectors. It is with black bars in movies and mixed type material that you start seeing image deficiencies. You are right these photos look good, although you can tell the black floor is slightly elevated and the contrast a bit weaker. The bigger diagonal makes up for it. In the end, it is all about what works for you and meets your demands. If I had the space and money, I would go a bit smaller at 150" with a fixed frame ALR, but I don't, so it does not really matter what I think. Different strokes for different folks. However, getting black bars as dark as possible will still be my nr.1 priority with my new living room set up. I have always envied the JVC crowd, although I have been buying exclusively DLPs for the past 23 years.


----------



## zaselim

rooterha said:


> Yes it has a 3 year warranty but they don't cover shipping.


Yeah, that's correct. Isn't it usually the case for everything you import from other countries?


----------



## ProFragger

Ricoflashback said:


> I saw this on Facebook. Everyone will shop for the best price on the Fengmi T1 but does anyone else have this type of warranty? Good as long as the company is around, I surmise.
> 
> View attachment 3256653


Cool, but do we still have to send to China?


----------



## ProFragger

Two questions guys:

1. What are the changes in the new firmware?
2. What's usually different about the International model?

Thanks!


----------



## jeff9n

rjyap said:


> Actually that also happen with long throw projector. Before I put felt on the top of the ceiling 6' out, my painter use glossy black paint for the front ceiling. It annoy the hell out of me when watching any bright scene. My only advice is use felt to cover at least 6' ceiling out from the front wall.


I already took away the fireplace in the family room. Can't push my luck any further with ceiling covering 😅


----------



## rjyap

jeff9n said:


> I already took away the fireplace in the family room. Can't push my luck any further with ceiling covering 😅
> 
> View attachment 3256911


my wife wouldn’t approved such a big screen in living room. 😅
I insist to convert one room into dedicated HT room and going to blacken it as much as I could. My man cave.


----------



## gostocks

rjyap said:


> my wife wouldn’t approved such a big screen in living room. 😅
> I insist to convert one room into dedicated HT room and going to blacken it as much as I could. My man cave.


You need a new wife


----------



## abzorh

jeff9n said:


> I already took away the fireplace in the family room. Can't push my luck any further with ceiling covering 😅
> 
> View attachment 3256911


----------



## abzorh

gostocks said:


> You need a new wife


YEAH


----------



## nas19

ProFragger said:


> Two questions guys:
> 
> 1. What are the changes in the new firmware?
> 2. What's usually different about the International model?
> 
> Thanks!


1. Not entirely sure what's available in new firmware, but there was a link shared by @herry2022 that points to a Chinese website with some details on the FengOS 2.0.
2. Usually, the international model comes with certified Android. If you're someone who actually uses the streaming/player capabilities of the projector itself, this would be interesting to you. However, older international versions of other Fengmi/Xiaomi projectors did not even have the manual color adjustment settings. Let's see what they do with the Andorid 11 models.

Additionally, I contacted Fengmi to check if there would be any difference in the laser unit and they mentioned it's still gonna be the 2800 ANSI RGB+ laser unit. I also asked about the alleged 3D support and they told me that the global version will NOT have 3D support, so there's that.

EDIT: They also mentioned that if they get enough requests, they would consider adding 3D support. Go ahead, people!


----------



## humax

nas19 said:


> Additionally, I contacted Fengmi to check if there would be any difference in the laser unit and they mentioned it's still gonna be the 2800 ANSI RGB+ laser unit. I also asked about the alleged 3D support and they told me that the global version will NOT have 3D support, so there's that.



My own questions to their support team:

"HELLO, DEAR SIR/MADAM. I AM IN THE MARKET FOR A NEW UST PROJECTOR AND SINCE I LIVE IN EUROPE THE T1 GLOBAL VERSION HAS CAUGHT MY ATTENTION. MAY I ASK IF YOU PLAN TO RELEASE THIS INTERNATIONAL VERSION ANYTIME SOON OR AM I WAITING IN VAIN AND I WILL JUST HAVE TO BUY THE ALREADY AVAILABLE CHINESE VERSION?
ALSO, SOME FURTHER QUESTIONS:


ΤΗΕ ΙΝΤΕRNATIONAL VERSION WILL HAVE OFFICIAL ANDROID 11. CORRECT?
 2. WILL IT BE AVAILABLE IN MULTIPLE COLORS?

3. WILL THERE BE 3D SUPPORT, SINCE THE CHINESE VERSION DOES NOT HAVE ANY?

4. FINALLY, DO YOU PLAN ON ADDING A COLOR MANAGEMENT SYSTEM FOR YOUR PROJECTORS TO BE CALIBRATED BY A PROFESSIONAL?"


and this is what they answered:


"Affected by COVID-19, we can't give you an accurate answer about the release time of Formovie Theater Laser Projector.

The four questions you mentioned are supported by Formovie Theater Laser Projector and tested by engineers.

Thanks for your contact!"


In short, go figure! I tend to think the only real difference will be android 11 and there will be no 3d support or extra picture settings. Still, I want to be sure by seeing official specs in the off chance I am wrong. I can only buy this once and then I am stuck with it for the next 5-6 years.


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

nas19 said:


> I also asked about the alleged 3D support and they told me that the global version will NOT have 3D support, so there's that.
> 
> EDIT: They also mentioned that if they get enough requests, they would consider adding 3D support. Go ahead, people!


I just sent an email requesting 3D. Does anyone know if this could be added to existing units via firmware, or are there hardware limitations preventing this?


----------



## humax

Scott Rosenberg said:


> I just sent an email requesting 3D. Does anyone know if this could be added to existing units via firmware, or are there hardware limitations preventing this?



It should be a matter of firmware. They have supported 3D-playback in the past. However, the fact remains they keep everyone confused by providing contradicting info on specs for the global version.


----------



## chrisdu46

humax said:


> However, the fact remains they keep everyone confused by providing contradicting info
> [/CITATION]
> Yes, and the same goes for the FengOS 2.0 firmware release : It was supposed to be mid-March, now this week, maybe next week. They make fun of us


----------



## mcusman2012

zaselim said:


> Yeah, that's correct. Isn't it usually the case for everything you import from other countries?


Which screen have you ordered and from where for T1 usage?


----------



## Ricoflashback

No one answered my question (mid-term exam) so everyone in this thread has received demerits and is on notice. Just kidding, I think. I'm trying to calculate how large of a screen I can have based on the projection from the Fengmi T1 to the screen (which should equal the stated distance from the bottom of the laser projection to the bottom of the screen, adding in the height of the projector (4.23")) Any thin bezel should be a marginal height.

This info is from the Banggood site under the "specifications" tab. Very helpful. (No endorsement here, one way or the other, on buying from this source.)









FENGMI Formovie 4K Iaser Projector T1 ALPD RGB+ Panchromatic 2800 ANSI Lumens 5G WIFI MEMC Automatically Eletric Focus Keystone Correction 3+64GB WIFI FENG OS 10.7Billion Color Display Home Cinema


Only US$3,299.99, buy best FENGMI Formovie 4K Iaser Projector T1 ALPD RGB+ Panchromatic 2800 ANSI Lumens 5G WIFI MEMC Automatically Eletric Focus Keystone Correction 3+64GB WIFI FENG OS 10.7Billion Color Display Home Cinema sale online store at wholesale price.




usa.banggood.com













If I read the table right, for a 100" screen, the distance from the bottom of the Fengmi T1 (4.2 Height) + 13.39 is added up to equal 17.59 inches. Then, add that number to the height of your cabinet and you get the total distance from the floor to the bottom of the projected image. In my case, I'm using a taller 21.7 Furnitech Cabinet since it has the width to accommodate my large center speaker and hold all my components. It also has a great design where the middle "slats" slide left and right so you get unobstructed sound from your center channel and then you can close it up to hide all your components in a multi-purpose room like a living room. My total distance from the floor to the bottom of the projector screen will be 39.29" for a 100" screen.

For a 120" screen (more optimal) it will be 41.30" - which is not that great of a height difference. I know some folks like to use a much lower stand and/or have lower ceilings than the standard U.S. 10 foot ceiling. In my current setup, my screen is 33" off the ground to the bottom of the image. The difficulty I have in with a UST Projector is where to put the center speaker. I do not want to give up my home theater, Dolby Atmos setup so this is the best configuration that will work with a Fengmi T1.

I hope this helps other folks plan and setup their projectors.


----------



## Ricoflashback

ProFragger said:


> Cool, but do we still have to send to China?


Yes, unfortunately. But shipping back to you is covered. As of now, there is no U.S. Fengmi T1 distributor that I know of. And, more importantly, none with support where you could send the unit back to a U.S. address. But a three year warranty is still pretty good all things considered.


----------



## Acc325

Does anybody know how to get feng OS 2.0?


----------



## humax

Acc325 said:


> Does anybody know how to get feng OS 2.0?



Last thing I have read it will be publicly pushed out to all T1s probably sometime next week.


----------



## zaselim

mcusman2012 said:


> Which screen have you ordered and from where for T1 usage?


Currently I already have a fixed frame 120" 0.8 or 0.9 gain white matt screen I custom made last year. First I'm going to check the projector on that since I have a pretty dark room (no windows and light controlled) to see if I need to change the screen or not. I will also get a sample fabric piece in grey or silver in 0.8 and 1.0 gain as well since grey enhances the black floor further to see the difference in overall picture quality.


----------



## Directtv999

What is this white spot on my screen not visible on dark content. Is this T1 issue? Cleaned the laser panel still seeing that mark


----------



## rjyap

Directtv999 said:


> What is this white spot on my screen not visible on dark content. Is this T1 issue? Cleaned the laser panel still seeing that mark


If you shift the projector, does the spot follow (just to eliminate that the spot is from the screen, not projector)? Also best to use pure color red, green or blue to test the white spot. I'll also try to use camera lens cleaning blower and brush on the projector lens.


----------



## Acc325

humax said:


> Last thing I have read it will be publicly pushed out to all T1s probably sometime next week.


Thanks! Also would you know how to cycle/keep the hdmi at 2.2? I am experiencing the cycling issue where it defaulst to hdmi 1.0+ and can only get 1080p content.


----------



## jhav1

loyot said:


> How about other cheaper option for pet crystal which offered by wupro, snowhite & other oem in alibaba?are the quality the same?


Anybody have any feedback on this past question from @loyot ? I'm getting ready to purchase a 120" PET Crystal screen from Alibaba and the prices are all over the place including several of the options identified in the original question. When I inquire, the responders all indicate that it is the same material, just from a different factory. Is there value spending more for the XY Pet Crystal versus a WuPro, Snowhite, etc?

Thanks!


----------



## Acc325

shanedowley said:


> More follow up from Fengmi/Xiaomi support:
> 
> 
> Dear Sir,
> 
> Thank you for using and supporting our products, we have sent your valuable comments and feedback to the product manager.
> We will update the progress to you as soon as possible.
> 
> Thanks
> [email protected]
> 
> *__*
> 
> 
> Regardless of how the external HDMI source devices are connected to the Xiaomi C2 (or Fengmi T1) - either directly into the HDMI ports of the projector or via the Soundbar - the behaviour is the same: Issues with HDMI EDID handshake and signal format synch.
> 
> The only work-around I have found is to reset the HDMI synch by changing the HDMI version number (between 1.4, 2.0, 2.1) under the Playback setting of the Projector’s HDMI menu.
> 
> So it appears that the software managing the projector’s HDMI handshake and signal format synch is not working correctly.
> 
> I’d be grateful if you could investigate this further and provide a fix in a firmware update.


Hello

How do you access the playback setting - projector hdmi menu?


----------



## Acc325

ngcoolman said:


> It is a keeper to me although I have no experience with other Xiaomi C2 or other USTs. The black level looks good to me, it doesn't go as dark as my LG OLED but better than my Sony 55x9000f (which I believe is equivalent to 55x900f in the US). Thank you for your suggestion on the audio extractor. But I am confused how it may help my problem of wanting to use the built-in speaker with an external subwoofer. My understanding is that if i choose audio output to hdmi earc, the projector will stop outputting sound from the built-in speakers. Finally, the menu said the output can be set to hdmi 1.4/2.0/2.1/auto. But i can't tell whether it is 2.0b or actual 2.1. All I know is the projector will not be able to play game at 4k120Hz even setting the hdmi output to 2.1, interestingly, it claims it can do 1080p at 120fps which I am not sure the projector actually have 120Hz refresh rate.
> 
> View attachment 3222119


Hello

This may sound stupid, but how did you access thjis screen from FengOS?


----------



## ProFragger

nas19 said:


> 1. Not entirely sure what's available in new firmware, but there was a link shared by @herry2022 that points to a Chinese website with some details on the FengOS 2.0.
> 2. Usually, the international model comes with certified Android. If you're someone who actually uses the streaming/player capabilities of the projector itself, this would be interesting to you. However, older international versions of other Fengmi/Xiaomi projectors did not even have the manual color adjustment settings. Let's see what they do with the Andorid 11 models.
> 
> Additionally, I contacted Fengmi to check if there would be any difference in the laser unit and they mentioned it's still gonna be the 2800 ANSI RGB+ laser unit. I also asked about the alleged 3D support and they told me that the global version will NOT have 3D support, so there's that.
> 
> EDIT: They also mentioned that if they get enough requests, they would consider adding 3D support. Go ahead, people!


Thank you for the detailed response and follow with Fengmi themselves! Where should we write to them to request the feature? And certified Android would mean built in Chromecast and native 4K Netflix, you think? Have they done this for previous international models? 



humax said:


> My own questions to their support team:
> 
> "HELLO, DEAR SIR/MADAM. I AM IN THE MARKET FOR A NEW UST PROJECTOR AND SINCE I LIVE IN EUROPE THE T1 GLOBAL VERSION HAS CAUGHT MY ATTENTION. MAY I ASK IF YOU PLAN TO RELEASE THIS INTERNATIONAL VERSION ANYTIME SOON OR AM I WAITING IN VAIN AND I WILL JUST HAVE TO BUY THE ALREADY AVAILABLE CHINESE VERSION?
> ALSO, SOME FURTHER QUESTIONS:
> 
> 
> ΤΗΕ ΙΝΤΕRNATIONAL VERSION WILL HAVE OFFICIAL ANDROID 11. CORRECT?
> 2. WILL IT BE AVAILABLE IN MULTIPLE COLORS?
> 
> 3. WILL THERE BE 3D SUPPORT, SINCE THE CHINESE VERSION DOES NOT HAVE ANY?
> 
> 4. FINALLY, DO YOU PLAN ON ADDING A COLOR MANAGEMENT SYSTEM FOR YOUR PROJECTORS TO BE CALIBRATED BY A PROFESSIONAL?"
> 
> 
> and this is what they answered:
> 
> 
> "Affected by COVID-19, we can't give you an accurate answer about the release time of Formovie Theater Laser Projector.
> 
> The four questions you mentioned are supported by Formovie Theater Laser Projector and tested by engineers.
> 
> Thanks for your contact!"
> 
> 
> In short, go figure! I tend to think the only real difference will be android 11 and there will be no 3d support or extra picture settings. Still, I want to be sure by seeing official specs in the off chance I am wrong. I can only buy this once and then I am stuck with it for the next 5-6 years.


Another good correspondence, thank you @humax! Just one question mate... Why are you yelling at the Fengmi support in your whole note 😁!? LOL! Kidding bud! Thank you again. The color of the project intrigues me too 👍🏼! 




Ricoflashback said:


> Yes, unfortunately. But shipping back to you is covered. As of now, there is no U.S. Fengmi T1 distributor that I know of. And, more importantly, none with support where you could send the unit back to a U.S. address. But a three year warranty is still pretty good all things considered.


I see, makes sense... Thank you for responding. It's not ideal, but some protection. Although, going with a retailer like this... I wonder if they bake in the price the for "additional" warranty?


----------



## ProFragger

Ricoflashback said:


> No one answered my question (mid-term exam) so everyone in this thread has received demerits and is on notice. Just kidding, I think. I'm trying to calculate how large of a screen I can have based on the projection from the Fengmi T1 to the screen (which should equal the stated distance from the bottom of the laser projection to the bottom of the screen, adding in the height of the projector (4.23")) Any thin bezel should be a marginal height.
> 
> This info is from the Banggood site under the "specifications" tab. Very helpful. (No endorsement here, one way or the other, on buying from this source.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FENGMI Formovie 4K Iaser Projector T1 ALPD RGB+ Panchromatic 2800 ANSI Lumens 5G WIFI MEMC Automatically Eletric Focus Keystone Correction 3+64GB WIFI FENG OS 10.7Billion Color Display Home Cinema
> 
> 
> Only US$3,299.99, buy best FENGMI Formovie 4K Iaser Projector T1 ALPD RGB+ Panchromatic 2800 ANSI Lumens 5G WIFI MEMC Automatically Eletric Focus Keystone Correction 3+64GB WIFI FENG OS 10.7Billion Color Display Home Cinema sale online store at wholesale price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> usa.banggood.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3257110
> 
> If I read the table right, for a 100" screen, the distance from the bottom of the Fengmi T1 (4.2 Height) + 13.39 is added up to equal 17.59 inches. Then, add that number to the height of your cabinet and you get the total distance from the floor to the bottom of the projected image. In my case, I'm using a taller 21.7 Furnitech Cabinet since it has the width to accommodate my large center speaker and hold all my components. It also has a great design where the middle "slats" slide left and right so you get unobstructed sound from your center channel and then you can close it up to hide all your components in a multi-purpose room like a living room. My total distance from the floor to the bottom of the projector screen will be 39.29" for a 100" screen.
> 
> For a 120" screen (more optimal) it will be 41.30" - which is not that great of a height difference. I know some folks like to use a much lower stand and/or have lower ceilings than the standard U.S. 10 foot ceiling. In my current setup, my screen is 33" off the ground to the bottom of the image. The difficulty I have in with a UST Projector is where to put the center speaker. I do not want to give up my home theater, Dolby Atmos setup so this is the best configuration that will work with a Fengmi T1.
> 
> I hope this helps other folks plan and setup their projectors.


Off topic, but, was this the cheapest price you could find? If so, man! It's already upto to $3300!? Started with around $2600, no? I guess no longer an under $3K projector? 😊


----------



## humax

jhav1 said:


> Anybody have any feedback on this past question from @loyot ? I'm getting ready to purchase a 120" PET Crystal screen from Alibaba and the prices are all over the place including several of the options identified in the original question. When I inquire, the responders all indicate that it is the same material, just from a different factory. Is there value spending more for the XY Pet Crystal versus a WuPro, Snowhite, etc?Thanks!



Prices may seem all over the place, but they are not really. Anything below 1000$ shipping included for 120" has a good chance of being Pet Grid. Snowhite is probably Pet Grid also. Don't know about WuPro. I would not go for anything less than the XY Pet Crystal. Well known and proven quality for the price. IMHO, try to find the cheapest quote for that.


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

ProFragger said:


> Thank you for the detailed response and follow with Fengmi themselves! Where should we write to them to request the feature? And certified Android would mean built in Chromecast and native 4K Netflix, you think? Have they done this for previous international models?


try emailing them here:
*[email protected]*


----------



## humax

ProFragger said:


> Another good correspondence, thank you @humax! Just one question mate... Why are you yelling at the Fengmi support in your whole note 😁!? LOL! Kidding bud! Thank you again. The color of the project intrigues me too 👍🏼!



I was late for work and had to write this in a hurry, hence the use of caps for faster typing. Still, I find their answer more cryptic than revealing and enlightening. I, for once, am more confused and puzzled than before. I do hope they release some official specs soon, so the guessing game may stop.


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

I heard back from Fengmi regarding 3D support... sounds like BOTH hardware and software updates are required to enable 3D, so I assume not possible for the Chinese version. They were a bit evasive with specifics on the possibility of adding this to the International version. After several emails with partial answers, by the fourth email, the exchange had devolved to this...

*Me:*_ I understand that neither the T1 nor global T1 currently support 3d. Can you please provide a simple Yes / No answer to the following:
Will Global T1 be able to support 3D with a future firmware update?_

*Fengmi:*_ On the issue of 3D, we have to discuss it further. If there is any news, I will notify you as soon as possible. Thank you for your understanding!_

I could be wrong, but my assumption is that the hardware currently planned for the International version is not capable of 3D. If they are still in fact making design / hardware decisions, a release may not be happening in the immediate future. That said, I'd be delighted to be proven wrong! While at times frustrating, I must say, it’s actually nice to send an email and hear back from someone so promptly. And based on the firmware updates you guys are reporting on, it definitely sounds like the company is listening to feedback!


----------



## Acc325

ProFragger said:


> Off topic, but, was this the cheapest price you could find? If so, man! It's already upto to $3300!? Started with around $2600, no? I guess no longer an under $3K projector? 😊


If you buy from China direct around 2,200-2300 usd + shipping.


----------



## ngcoolman

Acc325 said:


> Hello
> 
> This may sound stupid, but how did you access thjis screen from FengOS?


The screen is not from fengos, it is xbox reporting what features supported by the display.


----------



## Acc325

ngcoolman said:


> The screen is not from fengos, it is xbox reporting what features supported by the display.


Would you know how to "force" the t1 to be on hdmi 2.2? My fire stick 4k is being limited to 1080p @60hz.


----------



## AlexM89

Acc325 said:


> Would you know how to "force" the t1 to be on hdmi 2.2? My fire stick 4k is being limited to 1080p @60hz.


From the remote control click the 3 lines ....
A menu appears at the top .... go to PLAY SETTINGS, and switch between HDMI 2.1 and 2.0 ...

Then go to the fire munu and on the screen option you have all the resolutions, color depths etc ...

PS: if you had to unplug / turn off the fire, due to the handshake problem, you have to repeat this step


----------



## humax

Scott Rosenberg said:


> I heard back from Fengmi regarding 3D support... sounds like BOTH hardware and software updates would be required to enable 3D, so I assume not possible for the Chinese version.




The VAVA Chroma is a similar or even the same RGB ALPD design and supported 3D right from the start, so hardware should not be a problem. Sounds more like they are debating the necessity to support a basically dead format. I am more interested in further image adjustments and CMS and not dealing with the useless Chinese stuff. I doubt both will happen, but on the other hand if they 'll be asking more money for the global version, they also have to offer something extra in comparison to the Chinese model. Android 11 alone is not going to cut it.


----------



## m0j0

Been out of town for work the past week. Took a few pics last night when I got back...


----------



## Acc325

Acc325 said:


> If you buy from China direct around 2,200-2300 usd + shipping.





AlexM89 said:


> From the remote control click the 3 lines ....
> A menu appears at the top .... go to PLAY SETTINGS, and switch between HDMI 2.1 and 2.0 ...
> 
> Then go to the fire munu and on the screen option you have all the resolutions, color depths etc ...
> 
> PS: if you had to unplug / turn off the fire, due to the handshake problem, you have to repeat this step


Thank you!


----------



## CabbageMan

There is a new update on my T1 that I just downloaded. Feng 2.0.0.2224. I have the alpha firmware so it could just be for anyone already with that as there have been a few updates but anyone waiting for the update go check and see. I wouldn’t get your hopes up but it could be the official firmware.


----------



## Ricoflashback

ProFragger said:


> Off topic, but, was this the cheapest price you could find? If so, man! It's already upto to $3300!? Started with around $2600, no? I guess no longer an under $3K projector? 😊


Ah, no. This was only a source for specs on the projector. Lots of sites to buy cheaper that is documented throughout this thread. In researching the Fengmi T1 - - this had the most useful information including distances from the PJ to the screen by screen size & other PJ data.


----------



## m0j0

CabbageMan said:


> There is a new update on my T1 that I just downloaded. Feng 2.0.0.2224. I have the alpha firmware so it could just be for anyone already with that as there have been a few updates but anyone waiting for the update go check and see. I wouldn’t get your hopes up but it could be the official firmware.


Just downloaded and installed the update. It looks like they fixed the custom tab so you don't have to switch to a built-in mode and back to custom to change parameters. Now you can just click custom and make changes! Sweet!


----------



## Aztar35

m0j0 said:


> Been out of town for work the past week. Took a few pics last night when I got back...


Wow. Those look very sharp. Is this "little" UST giving your Sony a run for its money?


----------



## m0j0

Aztar35 said:


> Wow. Those look very sharp. Is this "little" UST giving your Sony a run for its money?


Yes, it really does!


----------



## Aztar35

m0j0 said:


> Yes, it really does!


I know what you mean. When I fired my version up on screen, I was kind of very surprised too.


----------



## Pauljiang

ngcoolman said:


> It is a keeper to me although I have no experience with other Xiaomi C2 or other USTs. The black level looks good to me, it doesn't go as dark as my LG OLED but better than my Sony 55x9000f (which I believe is equivalent to 55x900f in the US). Thank you for your suggestion on the audio extractor. But I am confused how it may help my problem of wanting to use the built-in speaker with an external subwoofer. My understanding is that if i choose audio output to hdmi earc, the projector will stop outputting sound from the built-in speakers. Finally, the menu said the output can be set to hdmi 1.4/2.0/2.1/auto. But i can't tell whether it is 2.0b or actual 2.1. All I know is the projector will not be able to play game at 4k120Hz even setting the hdmi output to 2.1, interestingly, it claims it can do 1080p at 120fps which I am not sure the projector actually have 120Hz refresh rate.
> 
> View attachment 3222119


Depending on their mode and test form Gregory, I don't think the firmware is "game ready" yet. If the SoC is shown internally, the SoC "MT9669" is ready to support 4K 120Hz, so there is a good chance that the real "gaming model" will be awaited in the next update.








MT9669 | MediaTek AI-Picture Quality


Get up to 120Hz display refresh rate and MediaTek AI-Picture quality suite with MediaTek MT9669 that has a dedicated 4K Video Decoding Engine.




www.mediatek.com


----------



## JereyWolf

I set up my T1 (not on new firmware) next to my PX1-PRO this morning and got some decent photos. I shot them in RAW on my Galaxy S22 and edited them for color (adjusted tint). I was able to use Lightroom to edit the colors on each side of the photo individually. The few photos that I made an exposure adjustment to, it was made to the entire photo.

I set it up this way so that I could have both projectors in identical lighting and photo conditions. I don't really know anything about taking or editing photos but I did what I could to get a decent side-by-side and show the T1's strength in low ADL contrast.

* Edit* Both projectors were calibrated to as close as possible to D65 and 2.2 gamma. The Hisense has an effect on camera sensors that shifts the entire image towards magenta so I tried my best to correct for that and match them as close as I could. I also matched them to be at the same luminance before taking any of these photos which on my screen was 45 nits.
_end edit_

The link to google drive has 19 photos.
Fengmi on the left and Hisense on the right.





FENGMI T1 - HISENSE PX1-PRO - Google Drive







drive.google.com












(this one for preview)


----------



## Brajesh

Man, blacks & contrast of T1 just crush that of PX1 Pro. But, why are the images so purplish on the Hisense? What picture mode did you have each projector on?


----------



## Grazed

JereyWolf said:


> I set up my T1 (not on new firmware) next to my PX1-PRO this morning and got some decent photos. I shot them in RAW on my Galaxy S22 and edited them for color (adjusted tint). I was able to use Lightroom to edit the colors on each side of the photo individually. The few photos that I made an exposure adjustment to, it was made to the entire photo.
> 
> I set it up this way so that I could have both projectors in identical lighting and photo conditions. I don't really know anything about taking or editing photos but I did what I could to get a decent side-by-side and show the T1's strength in low ADL contrast.
> 
> The link to google drive has 19 photos.
> Fengmi on the left and Hisense on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FENGMI T1 - HISENSE PX1-PRO - Google Drive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> drive.google.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3257638
> 
> (this one for preview)


I don't own either projector so at first I didn't know which was which looking at the photos until I saw the images of deep space. The black level difference is insane on the Fengmi T1. I might have to order one here shortly to replace my Optoma P2...


----------



## JereyWolf

Brajesh said:


> Man, blacks & contrast of T1 just crush that of PX1 Pro. But, why are the images so purplish on the Hisense? What picture mode did you have each projector on?


I added an edit. Hisense was on theater day and Fengmi on child/night.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Brajesh said:


> Man, blacks & contrast of T1 just crush that of PX1 Pro. But, why are the images so purplish on the Hisense? What picture mode did you have each projector on?


I attribute that contrast to the inferior (junk) processing on the Fengmi T1. No other explanation.


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> I attribute that contrast to the inferior (junk) processing on the Fengmi T1. No other explanation.


Well, it's "good enough" for the masses, but that's about it.


----------



## Aztar35

Grazed said:


> I don't own either projector so at first I didn't know which was which looking at the photos until I saw the images of deep space. *The black level difference is insane on the Fengmi T1.* I might have to order one here shortly to replace my Optoma P2...


I wonder how it's being done though because I see no dimming active application on my C2 whatsoever. Perhaps the light output was cranked up and a lens iris inserted? Or, maybe some type of light-absorbing coating was applied in the light path to reduce reflections?

I really don't know. It's just that it's mindboggling because the chip being used is only a .47 DMD and yet the sharpness and black levels/contrast are really pretty awesome and not only for the DLP UST platform.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Aztar35 said:


> I wonder how it's being done though because I see no dimming active application on my C2 whatsoever. Perhaps the light output was cranked up and a lens iris inserted? Or, maybe some type of light-absorbing coating was applied in the light path to reduce reflections?
> 
> I really don't know. It's just that it's mindboggling because the chip being used is only a .47 DMD and yet the sharpness and black levels/contrast are really pretty awesome and not only for the DLP UST platform.


Whatever is in the Appotronics ALPD 4.0 secret sauce - - I don't think they intend on sharing it with anyone.


----------



## humax

JereyWolf said:


> Fengmi on the left and Hisense on the right.



Thank you for taking the time to post these. It must have taken you several hours and you were not obliged to do it. Very revealing comparison. This is what all the talk has been about in this section of the forum since early summer. The point is DLP no longer has to be a poor relative contrast-wise in 2022 and be laughed at by other projection technologies. This is so to speak a budget version of JVC's attributes. Sure, it is not as good as a JVC, but it does not cost as much, you can place it anywhere and it has WGC. It is also a viable choice for those considering the closer in price Epsons, who up to now would not even bother with DLPs.


----------



## Gig'em ATX

JereyWolf said:


> I set up my T1 (not on new firmware) next to my PX1-PRO this morning and got some decent photos. I shot them in RAW on my Galaxy S22 and edited them for color (adjusted tint). I was able to use Lightroom to edit the colors on each side of the photo individually. The few photos that I made an exposure adjustment to, it was made to the entire photo.
> 
> I set it up this way so that I could have both projectors in identical lighting and photo conditions. I don't really know anything about taking or editing photos but I did what I could to get a decent side-by-side and show the T1's strength in low ADL contrast.
> 
> * Edit* Both projectors were calibrated to as close as possible to D65 and 2.2 gamma. The Hisense has an effect on camera sensors that shifts the entire image towards magenta so I tried my best to correct for that and match them as close as I could. I also matched them to be at the same luminance before taking any of these photos which on my screen was 45 nits.
> _end edit_
> 
> The link to google drive has 19 photos.
> Fengmi on the left and Hisense on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FENGMI T1 - HISENSE PX1-PRO - Google Drive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> drive.google.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3257638
> 
> (this one for preview)


T1 seems to do a far better job at reproducing a deep black. It did seems to crush some of the dark areas in some content (blade runner? where it shows the guy and girl together. Look at the details in her hat and on the inner part of his jacket. The Hisense tended to crush content (look at the Rock and the shiny area on the side of his head). I was amazed at how much better it showed the star field and space shots over the Hisense. Looks great!


----------



## humax

Aztar35 said:


> I wonder how it's being done though because I see no dynamic contrast application on my C2 whatsoever.



This has been discussed before and no definite conclusion has been reached. Gregory has made it clear that as long as there is no visible pumping, artifacts or color and gamma shifts with these units, their contrast should be considered as native. UST way of projection also seems to play a part. The long throw ALPD models are not as equal performers contrast-wise. In short, this is a home theater version of their cinema grade technology in a compact package. BARCO is using it in their cinema projectors, so Appotronics must be doing something right.


----------



## rjyap

If Fengmi or Xiaomi manage to integrate laser dimming by 50% while avoiding color balance shift with good gamma compensation, it would have reach dynamic contrast 6000:1. That would be a killer projector for under USD 3k.


----------



## zoomx2

Don’t expect a new firmware within a week. Plus official should be launch soon.


----------



## zoomx2

JereyWolf said:


> I set up my T1 (not on new firmware) next to my PX1-PRO this morning and got some decent photos. I shot them in RAW on my Galaxy S22 and edited them for color (adjusted tint). I was able to use Lightroom to edit the colors on each side of the photo individually. The few photos that I made an exposure adjustment to, it was made to the entire photo.
> 
> I set it up this way so that I could have both projectors in identical lighting and photo conditions. I don't really know anything about taking or editing photos but I did what I could to get a decent side-by-side and show the T1's strength in low ADL contrast.
> 
> * Edit* Both projectors were calibrated to as close as possible to D65 and 2.2 gamma. The Hisense has an effect on camera sensors that shifts the entire image towards magenta so I tried my best to correct for that and match them as close as I could. I also matched them to be at the same luminance before taking any of these photos which on my screen was 45 nits.
> _end edit_
> 
> The link to google drive has 19 photos.
> Fengmi on the left and Hisense on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FENGMI T1 - HISENSE PX1-PRO - Google Drive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> drive.google.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3257638
> 
> (this one for preview)


Glad you happy with T1, new firmware even way better. It is a new TV for me.


----------



## Aztar35

humax said:


> This has been discussed before and no definite conclusion has been reached. Gregory has made it clear that as long as there is no visible pumping, artifacts or color and gamma shifts with these units, their contrast should be considered as native. UST way of projection also seems to play a part. The long throw ALPD models are not as equal performers contrast-wise. In short, this is a home theater version of their cinema grade technology in a compact package. BARCO is using it in their cinema projectors, so Appotronics must be doing something right.


I have yet to see a dynamic contrast system that shows zero artifacts. There are only two ways that come to mind that can accomplish dynamic contrast in these units: a mechanical dynamic iris and/or laser dimming. I see signs of neither.

1) A mechanical dynamic iris will dim the image, but a good electronic gamma manipulation can recapture the highlights while keeping black levels down. However, mechanical irises tend to be slower than lasers dimming and can show some pumping and sometimes make audible noise. one artifact is when if the entire image is not dimmed but highlights are enhanced will reveal blow out and compression.

2) Laser dimming. This too would be similar but operate faster than a DI. Also keep in mind, my C2, like the T1, is multi-laser'ed, so any dynamic dimming would have to be very intricate in that it would have to dim and brighten all three laser colors in perfect sync. to avoid color shift.


----------



## ProFragger

humax said:


> I was late for work and had to write this in a hurry, hence the use of caps for faster typing. Still, I find their answer more cryptic than revealing and enlightening. I, for once, am more confused and puzzled than before. I do hope they release some official specs soon, so the guessing game may stop.


Thanks for following up with them, bud. About the Caps... I was just trying to get a smile out of you 😊...


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Been trying some gaming with Game Stream on the Shield to the T1.
Game Mode is a MUST and I have to say overall it's great, but when trying to play something that needs very tight controls like Forza 5, it's just not quite good enough. I end up over/under steering due to all my little inputs being just a bit delayed.

I am adding a tiny bit of delay with Game Stream but according to the streaming stats my network delay is 1ms and my decoding delay is 2ms, I also think the 8BitDo adapter adds just a touch like 3ms of delay to the XBOX Wireless controller.

Waiting for the Official XBOX Wireless Adapter to be delivered and will try that out, and maybe reduce my stream to 1080P instead of 4K and see if I can get things to feel a bit better.

Got the new firmware update, unfortunately the biggest issue I have (besides thinking some content is too dark) is still the handshake at boot reducing the resolution/framerate on the Shield until I switch HDMI modes.

Also twice now for some reason (before the last update) my projector was on when it should have been off, you can see the laser putting out some light if you look at it and the lights on, but no light or image on screen.

Not sure if this was something in my setup with the auto on and my automation that caused this, but have not seen it before and have not changed anything, but also have not seen it again since the last firmware update.

If I see it happen again, I'll change my automation back to full power off instead of sleep mode.


----------



## MGF07

JereyWolf said:


> I set up my T1 (not on new firmware) next to my PX1-PRO this morning and got some decent photos. I shot them in RAW on my Galaxy S22 and edited them for color (adjusted tint). I was able to use Lightroom to edit the colors on each side of the photo individually. The few photos that I made an exposure adjustment to, it was made to the entire photo.
> 
> I set it up this way so that I could have both projectors in identical lighting and photo conditions. I don't really know anything about taking or editing photos but I did what I could to get a decent side-by-side and show the T1's strength in low ADL contrast.
> 
> * Edit* Both projectors were calibrated to as close as possible to D65 and 2.2 gamma. The Hisense has an effect on camera sensors that shifts the entire image towards magenta so I tried my best to correct for that and match them as close as I could. I also matched them to be at the same luminance before taking any of these photos which on my screen was 45 nits.
> _end edit_
> 
> The link to google drive has 19 photos.
> Fengmi on the left and Hisense on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FENGMI T1 - HISENSE PX1-PRO - Google Drive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> drive.google.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3257638
> 
> (this one for preview)


Thanks for sharing! I have not been considering the PX1 but have been looking at AWOL and T1, so the PX1 was kind of a stand-in for my purposes. My environment will be semi light controlled… basically can avoid direct ambient light.

My initial impression is that I thought the T1 did better in dark scenes like the space pic and the PX1 looked better in non-dark scenes. In scenes with mixed light light and dark the PX1 did seem really grey, but the T1 I thought had black crush. The mostly light scenes I thought the T1 lost shadow detail. Not sure about the firmware updates, but hopefully that addresses what I see with the T1.From what I’ve read it doesn’t sound like much can be done with the PX1 aside from DV.


----------



## humax

MGF07 said:


> My initial impression is that I thought the T1 did better in dark scenes like the space pic and the PX1 looked better in non-dark scenes. In scenes with mixed light light and dark the PX1 did seem really grey, but the T1 I thought had black crush. The mostly light scenes I thought the T1 lost shadow detail. Not sure about the firmware updates, but hopefully that addresses what I see with the T1.From what I’ve read it doesn’t sound like much can be done with the PX1 aside from DV.



Again, the need of an CMS to get colors perfectly dialed in and gamma presets for avoidance of black crush arises, provided that Fengmi will bother to provide them, thus making the T1 a truly well rounded product for the price, not just for contrast junkies like myself.


----------



## rjyap

10 points white balance would be great.


----------



## humax

Aztar35 said:


> I have yet to see a dynamic contrast system that shows zero artifacts. There are only two ways that come to mind that can accomplish dynamic contrast in these units: a mechanical dynamic iris and/or laser dimming. I see signs of neither.



The extra brightness cut down by a fixed iris or the anti-reflection coatings mentioned earlier sound like a more plausible scenario to me. I remember Sim2 with their folded alpha path light engine, coatings and the 0.95" Darkchip 4 were claiming a native contrast of 6500:1 back in the day. Who knows? It would take buying a T1 or a C2 and doing some serious reverse engineering down to their last screw by someone who really knows what he is doing. In fact, this sounds like a good idea for the engineers of Benq, Optoma etc. minus the patent infringement part, since for the past six years ALPD is available for home theater use, they have failed to produce a similar high contrast DLP engine. Time to up the ante for them too, because off the shelf low contrast designs are not up to the task anymore.


----------



## humax

rjyap said:


> If Fengmi or Xiaomi manage to integrate laser dimming by 50% while avoiding color balance shift with good gamma compensation, it would have reach dynamic contrast 6000:1. That would be a killer projector for under USD 3k.



A possible implementation in their ALPD 5.0 version, when available? They did mention dynamic contrast improvements.


----------



## humax

rjyap said:


> 10 points white balance would be great.



We may ask all we want. The question is "are they willing to provide"? Gregory has been asking for an CMS in their units for years as their biggest supporter and it is still a no-show. Even T1 current firmwares are a big improvement to their minor improving updates of the recent past. I guess it is baby steps with them software-wise.


----------



## Tanizhq

humax said:


> We may ask all we want. The question is "are they willing to provide"? Gregory has been asking for an CMS in their units for years as their biggest supporter and it is still a no-show. Even T1 current firmwares are a big improvement to their minor improving updates of the recent past. I guess it is baby steps with them software-wise.


Lol yeah, everyone asking for crazy features and then saying "That would make it a killer projector under 3k". Not sure if they realise it ALREADY IS a killer projector at basically any price point and especially under 3k. So asking for features which aren't even on Samsung/Hisense etc Projectors which are double the price isn't exactly realistic


----------



## JereyWolf

MGF07 said:


> Thanks for sharing! I have not been considering the PX1 but have been looking at AWOL and T1, so the PX1 was kind of a stand-in for my purposes. My environment will be semi light controlled… basically can avoid direct ambient light.
> 
> My initial impression is that I thought the T1 did better in dark scenes like the space pic and the PX1 looked better in non-dark scenes. In scenes with mixed light light and dark the PX1 did seem really grey, but the T1 I thought had black crush. The mostly light scenes I thought the T1 lost shadow detail. Not sure about the firmware updates, but hopefully that addresses what I see with the T1.From what I’ve read it doesn’t sound like much can be done with the PX1 aside from DV.


I would say that the PX1-PRO is very good in bright scenes and it has all of the controls that you could want. There are no issues that I've run into with HDMI CEC at all. The T1 absolutely beats it in low light scenes but in every other case the gap between the two is very narrow. 

I would also say the black crush that you can see in the comparisons could also be interpreted as lifted blacks on the PX1-PRO. The visible detail in dark scenes is far superior on the T1.


----------



## m0j0

JereyWolf said:


> I would say that the PX1-PRO is very good in bright scenes and it has all of the controls that you could want. There are no issues that I've run into with HDMI CEC at all. The T1 absolutely beats it in low light scenes but in every other case the gap between the two is very narrow.
> 
> I would also say the black crush that you can see in the comparisons could also be interpreted as lifted blacks on the PX1-PRO. The visible detail in dark scenes is far superior on the T1.


Have you considered using a Vertex2 with your projectors?


----------



## Aztar35

humax said:


> The extra brightness cut down by a fixed iris or the anti-reflection coatings mentioned earlier sound like a more plausible scenario to me. I remember Sim2 with their folded alpha path light engine, coatings and the 0.95" Darkchip 4 were claiming a native contrast of 6500:1 back in the day. Who knows? It would take buying a T1 or a C2 and doing some serious reverse engineering down to their last screw by someone who really knows what he is doing. In fact, this sounds like a good idea for the engineers of Benq, Optoma etc. minus the patent infringement part, since for the past six years ALPD is available for home theater use, they have failed to produce a similar high contrast DLP engine. Time to up the ante for them too, because off the shelf low contrast designs are not up to the task anymore.


I'm beginning to think there may also be a little HK, Helmholtz–Kohlrausch, effect happening, especially since the UST is bouncing light from the machine inches away to the screen.

I noticed blue is so intense on my Laser C2 and at 2,2000 lumens, it causes my eyes to dilate immediately to where it takes a bit to adjust when going to a darker scene, making dark appear even darker. I'm assuming this light intensity is safe since it's bouncing off the dmd ---but your thoughts? I know this is the T1 thread, but this will give you some reference given the similarity in ALPD.


----------



## Aztar35

JereyWolf said:


> I would say that the PX1-PRO is very good in bright scenes and it has all of the controls that you could want. There are no issues that I've run into with HDMI CEC at all. The T1 absolutely beats it in low light scenes but in every other case the gap between the two is very narrow.
> 
> I would also say the black crush that you can see in the comparisons could also be interpreted as lifted blacks on the PX1-PRO. The visible detail in dark scenes is far superior on the T1.


I see no black crush on the C2. Blacks are great but so is shadow detail --I'm not sure why the guy sold this; it's an excellent projector, UST or otherwise.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Another idea that I wonder if its technically possible.
I noticed display latency went up when we made the jump from 1080P to 4K projectors.
Makes sense more to process, and most of the 4K projectors are also using pixel shifting.

Should it not be technically possible on a 4K projector to have a "ultimate game mode" where native resolution is set to 1080P to further improve latency?
Less the process and it could send a native 1080P image without pixel shifting.


----------



## humax

Aztar35 said:


> I'm beginning to think there may also be a little HK, Helmholtz–Kohlrausch, effect happening, especially since the UST is bouncing light from the machine inches away to the screen.
> 
> I noticed blue is so intense on my Laser C2 and at 2,2000 lumens, it causes my eyes to dilate immediately to where it takes a bit to adjust when going to a darker scene, making dark appear even darker. I'm assuming this light intensity is safe since it's bouncing off the dmd ---but your thoughts? I know this is the T1 thread, but this will give you some reference given the similarity in ALPD.



I don't have much further info to share really. It does seem like the extreme projection angle of the UST platform offers much better handling of light scatter. ALPD module does retain the very high sharpness, but offers much lower native contrast in long throw models. I do not know, if any member here has the Wemax C700 (the long throw version of the A300) in order to compare the two models. That would be interesting.

Appotronics wemax c700 long throw laser projector, 2019 Singapore HIFI Show, present by element5 - YouTube


Here is Gregory's opinion on the most popular long throw ALPD model. Notice that contrast ratio is only 1100:1 at best.

Xiaomi Mijia ALPD3.0 review: Gregory's opinion – – Phc's Blog – (passionhomecinema.fr)


----------



## JereyWolf

m0j0 said:


> Have you considered using a Vertex2 with your projectors?


Yeah I've actually purchased and returned it twice. I eneded up going the HTPC MadVR route for movies. I may give it another shot, this time with the T1, depending on how I feel about the tone mapping after the update.


----------



## JereyWolf

Aztar35 said:


> I see no black crush on the C2. Blacks are great but so is shadow detail --I'm not sure why the guy sold this; it's an excellent projector, UST or otherwise.


I don't really see black crush on the T1 either. If the photo comparisons make it look like it's there I'd say that's because the photos are not perfect representations of the in-person image and only can serve as a relative comparison of the two projectors in specific, identical lighting/camera conditions.


----------



## ProjectionHead

m0j0 said:


> No, Brian didn’t say anything other than he’s still waiting to get his replacement T1.


yeah, please don’t lump me in with any of the critics. I haven’t seen it all yet so have no opinion other than disappointment that my unit came DOA.
My replacement is now supposedly on the way; Excited to finally see what all the hype is about.
I am also supposedly getting a second unit directly from fengmi (first unit is to replace the doa I got when buying off Ali); the new “international” version with Android so I can explore carrying it here in the USA.


----------



## m0j0

ProjectionHead said:


> yeah, please don’t lump me in with any of the critics. I haven’t seen it all yet so have no opinion other than disappointment that my unit came DOA.
> My replacement is now supposedly on the way; Excited to finally see what all the hype is about.
> I am also supposedly getting a second unit directly from fengmi (first unit is to replace the doa I got when buying off Ali); the new “international” version with Android so I can explore carrying it here in the USA.


Thanks for the update! We definitely aren't lumping you in with the critics!


----------



## ProjectionHead

Directtv999 said:


> Thank you for your support of our projector!
> We expect to officially push Feng OS 2.0 version next week, so stay tuned!


Do you work for Fengmi/Appotronics?


----------



## Aztar35

Ricoflashback said:


> I didn’t think so. Brian is a real straight shooter. And we’ve all been in sales situations where folks sell negatively.


Brian goes above and beyond...had great purchasing experience with him/his company. 

Keep in mind, he went out of his way to purchase one of these to include in comparisons; that tells me a lot too.


----------



## Aztar35

humax said:


> I don't have much further info to share really. It does seem like the extreme projection angle of the UST platform offers much better handling of light scatter. ALPD module does retain the very high sharpness, but offers much lower native contrast in long throw models. I do not know, if any member here has the Wemax C700 (the long throw version of the A300) in order to compare the two models. That would be interesting.
> 
> Appotronics wemax c700 long throw laser projector, 2019 Singapore HIFI Show, present by element5 - YouTube
> 
> 
> Here is Gregory's opinion on the most popular long throw ALPD model. Notice that contrast ratio is only 1100:1 at best.
> 
> Xiaomi Mijia ALPD3.0 review: Gregory's opinion – – Phc's Blog – (passionhomecinema.fr)



Sorry, I just noticed a typo on my part in my post above yours...of course it isn't "2,2000" lumens but is c. 2,200 lumens. 😄


----------



## Aztar35

humax said:


> (the long throw version of the A300) in order to compare the two models. That would be interesting.
> 
> Here is Gregory's opinion on the most popular *long throw ALPD model*. Notice that contrast ratio is *only 1100:1 at best*.



And now, I'm completely confused. 

Zoom methods can enhance contrast at the longest throw. Granted there are two types of zoom: digital and optical. While digital zoom can truncate the image and obscure pixels to engender worse off contrast, optical zoom at the longer throw distances will not and can increase contrast. I think I'm going to bow out of this particular discussion because while I believe the numbers, I just can't wrap my head around it to understand how it's happening.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Aztar35 said:


> And now, I'm completely confused.
> 
> Zoom methods can enhance contrast at the longest throw. Granted there are two types of zoom: digital and optical. While digital zoom can truncate the image and obscure pixels to engender worse off contrast, optical zoom at the longer throw distances will not and can increase contrast. I think I'm going to bow out of this particular discussion because while I believe the numbers, I just can't wrap my head around it to understand how it's happening.


I’m not sure what the discussion of this regular throw, 1080p, ALPD 3.0 projector is all about. Maybe ignorance is bliss. I don’t know if the magic of the Fengmi T1 with its contrast, colors and black levels without the traditional fog, mist, gas and haze of other DLP PJ’s can be offered in a regular throw unit with lens memory & horizontal and vertical shift. You know - maybe a Fengmi version of the Epson 12000 but a grand or so cheaper. Maybe the secret Appotronics sauce only works with a UST design.


----------



## Ricoflashback

ProjectionHead said:


> Do you work for Fengmi/Appotronics?


If he or she works for Fengmi, that isn’t the best handle. Will the real Directtv999 please stand up?


----------



## rooterha

So turns out the issue with the Vividstorm is they sent me a 220-230v version... had no idea. So I'm using a step down converter and that's working. Not sure if that's perfect long term? but seems fine for now. Screen is great and very smooth so I got a good one.


----------



## lattiboy

EDIT: others still reporting the issue. Must just be getting lucky for now. Have had this happen before, so it’s likely still broken.

FYI, in newest firmware the HDMI issues seem to be resolved for me so far. I’ve done 4 full shut downs and restarts with no issues so far in “auto” mode. Still reading 4K Dolby Vision on my Roku. Will report back if it fails again. Also Wi-Fi is greatly improved on the projector itself. I ran a speed test and got 100Mb/s, up from 30-40 previously.


Release notes below:

FengOS2.0.0.2224

Tabletop

• Optimize the desktop loading logic and accelerate the desktop loading speed.

System

• Improve HDMI ARC compatibility and fix the problem of sound interruption in individual cases

Title.

• Fix the problem that Wi-Fi does not connect to the router under special circumstances.

• Fix the problem of trapezoidal correction black screen for 1 second in special cases.


----------



## m0j0

lattiboy said:


> FYI, in newest firmware the HDMI issues seem to be resolved for me so far. I’ve done 4 full shut downs and restarts with no issues so far in “auto” mode. Still reading 4K Dolby Vision on my Roku. Will report back if it fails again. Also Wi-Fi is greatly improved on the projector itself. I ran a speed test and got 100Mb/s, up from 30-40 previously.
> 
> 
> Release notes below:
> 
> FengOS2.0.0.2224
> 
> Tabletop
> 
> • Optimize the desktop loading logic and accelerate the desktop loading speed.
> 
> System
> 
> • Improve HDMI ARC compatibility and fix the problem of sound interruption in individual cases
> 
> Title.
> 
> • Fix the problem that Wi-Fi does not connect to the router under special circumstances.
> 
> • Fix the problem of trapezoidal correction black screen for 1 second in special cases.


I had the hdmi issue at power up this morning with the new firmware.


----------



## rooterha

Yeah I had it happen with the new one too - roku


----------



## jakechoy

rooterha said:


> So turns out the issue with the Vividstorm is they sent me a 220-230v version... had no idea. So I'm using a step down converter and that's working. Not sure if that's perfect long term? but seems fine for now. Screen is great and very smooth so I got a good one.


darn.. i thought most of these would be multi-voltage like the projectors, laptops etc.


----------



## eezrider

JereyWolf said:


> I added an edit. Hisense was on theater day and Fengmi on child/night.


Are you using the newer firmware? With the alpha firmware, Child mode and some other modes engage Dynamic Contrast, which noticeably crushes dark tones/blacks. Child mode also boosts saturation, contrast and likely has a warmer color balance (harder to tell after the saturation boost). The net effect is this is not a mode for critical viewing/comparisons. It's probably OK for kids shows, as the mode name suggests. With the original firmware, child mode was not as specialized as it is now and was reportedly one of the more accurate modes.

I find Dynamic Contrast produces a very unnatural contrast boost, potentially it's just a tweak to the gamma as it impacts images with mixed light dark elements - it's not apparently reserved for low APL scenes. It has a horrid effect on skin tones, causing unnatural darkening around eyes and shaded parts of faces, for example

If you're using the new software, I'd recommend you redo the comparison, using Display mode (which disables Dynamic Contrast and seems quite neutral) or Custom mode with Dynamic Contrast off. 

I use Office/Custom normally, with the color tweaked to reduce the magenta boost from Office mode. The result is stunning in my (inexpert) view!

Full disclosure, I have just loaded the very latest firmware, 2.0.0.2224 and haven't retested the above observations - will try to do so this evening.


----------



## eezrider

jakechoy said:


> darn.. i thought most of these would be multi-voltage like the projectors, laptops etc.


Bad luck. Mine is 110v. Where did you order from? Mine was from ProjectorScreen.com


----------



## jakechoy

eezrider said:


> Bad luck. Mine is 110v. Where did you order from? Mine was from ProjectorScreen.com


i got mine from element5; local vividstorm distributor and it included the USB trigger.


----------



## lattiboy

eezrider said:


> Are you using the newer firmware? With the alpha firmware, Child mode and some other modes engage Dynamic Contrast, which noticeably crushes dark tones/blacks. Child mode also boosts saturation, contrast and likely has a warmer color balance (harder to tell after the saturation boost). The net effect is this is not a mode for critical viewing/comparisons. It's probably OK for kids shows, as the mode name suggests. With the original firmware, child mode was not as specialized as it is now and was reportedly one of the more accurate modes.
> 
> I find Dynamic Contrast produces a very unnatural contrast boost, potentially it's just a tweak to the gamma as it impacts images with mixed light dark elements - it's not apparently reserved for low APL scenes. It has a horrid effect on skin tones, causing unnatural darkening around eyes and shaded parts of faces, for example
> 
> If you're using the new software, I'd recommend you redo the comparison, using Display mode (which disables Dynamic Contrast and seems quite neutral) or Custom mode with Dynamic Contrast off.
> 
> I use Office/Custom normally, with the color tweaked to reduce the magenta boost from Office mode. The result is stunning in my (inexpert) view!
> 
> Full disclosure, I have just loaded the very latest firmware, 2.0.0.2224 and haven't retested the above observations - will try to do so this evening.


Can I get your custom image settings for this? I’ve been using view brightness and it’s good, but there’s a bit of a green cast I can’t shake.


----------



## eezrider

lattiboy said:


> Can I get your custom image settings for this? I’ve been using view brightness and it’s good, but there’s a bit of a green cast I can’t shake.


I started with the settings you published earlier for Office and lowered the red a tad more to 940. The challenge is that once you set it up for Office you can't switch to View without getting a green cast (unless you tweak the Custom color mode again). It's easy to forget the settings you've changed and find yourself watching and grumbling because you've forgotten to change something back!

it's important to stress (and I think you have said this often) with the new firmware it really is set-and-forget. I use Office/Custom, with brightness and contrast only tweaked very slightly (49, 52) with custom color red: 940, green:1024: blue: 950, and importantly with Dynamic Contrast off. This combination works for virtually everything. I find it hard to believe the T1 is now inferior to the C2 in terms of usability. I like the extra punch of Office as I have a Vividstorm with 0.6 gain. With a brighter screen or wall you might be better off going with View and tuning the color for that or using a color mode like Display that does not switch on dynamic contrast.

I wish Gregory would leave a big banner on his T1 review to make it clear his testing was with what was effectively pre-release software and commit to test again once the production release is available. Most of his concerns simply don't apply anymore and I worry his review is putting people off what is truly an amazing projector.


----------



## Ricoflashback

eezrider said:


> I wish Gregory would leave a big banner on his T1 review to make it clear his testing was with what was effectively pre-release software and commit to test again once the production release is available. Most of his concerns simply don't apply anymore and I worry his review is putting people off what is truly an amazing projector.


As popular as this projector is, a complete redo is in order.


----------



## 3sprit

He will do it. He is awaiting the official firmware and will likely award two Gold Awards at T1.


----------



## rooterha

jakechoy said:


> darn.. i thought most of these would be multi-voltage like the projectors, laptops etc.


They have a version for 110 but whoever at wupro screwed up. They reimbursed me for the converter at least.


----------



## rooterha

eezrider said:


> Are you using the newer firmware? With the alpha firmware, Child mode and some other modes engage Dynamic Contrast, which noticeably crushes dark tones/blacks. Child mode also boosts saturation, contrast and likely has a warmer color balance (harder to tell after the saturation boost). The net effect is this is not a mode for critical viewing/comparisons. It's probably OK for kids shows, as the mode name suggests. With the original firmware, child mode was not as specialized as it is now and was reportedly one of the more accurate modes.
> 
> I find Dynamic Contrast produces a very unnatural contrast boost, potentially it's just a tweak to the gamma as it impacts images with mixed light dark elements - it's not apparently reserved for low APL scenes. It has a horrid effect on skin tones, causing unnatural darkening around eyes and shaded parts of faces, for example
> 
> If you're using the new software, I'd recommend you redo the comparison, using Display mode (which disables Dynamic Contrast and seems quite neutral) or Custom mode with Dynamic Contrast off.
> 
> I use Office/Custom normally, with the color tweaked to reduce the magenta boost from Office mode. The result is stunning in my (inexpert) view!
> 
> Full disclosure, I have just loaded the very latest firmware, 2.0.0.2224 and haven't retested the above observations - will try to do so this evening.


What are your color settings?


----------



## rooterha

eezrider said:


> I started with the settings you published earlier for Office and lowered the red a tad more to 940. The challenge is that once you set it up for Office you can't switch to View without getting a green cast (unless you tweak the Custom color mode again). It's easy to forget the settings you've changed and find yourself watching and grumbling because you've forgotten to change something back!
> 
> it's important to stress (and I think you have said this often) with the new firmware it really is set-and-forget. I use Office/Custom, with brightness and contrast only tweaked very slightly (49, 52) with custom color red: 940, green:1024: blue: 950, and importantly with Dynamic Contrast off. This combination works for virtually everything. I find it hard to believe the T1 is now inferior to the C2 in terms of usability. I like the extra punch of Office as I have a Vividstorm with 0.6 gain. With a brighter screen or wall you might be better off going with View and tuning the color for that or using a color mode like Display that does not switch on dynamic contrast.
> 
> I wish Gregory would leave a big banner on his T1 review to make it clear his testing was with what was effectively pre-release software and commit to test again once the production release is available. Most of his concerns simply don't apply anymore and I worry his review is putting people off what is truly an amazing projector.


Oops just saw thanks


----------



## m0j0

rooterha said:


> Yeah I had it happen with the new one too - roku


Truly, I would be happy I think if they could just fix the issue with not detecting the proper hdmi 2.0 or 2.1 setting that we have already manually selected. Sure, it would be great to have CMS controls, and also brighter HDR/DV, but I can live without all that since I have the Vertex2. The biggest problem for me is having to go in and sometimes manually select 2.1 and/or 2.0.


----------



## humax

Aztar35 said:


> And now, I'm completely confused.



You should not be. All I am saying is the same ALPD 3.0 module used in long throw and UST models produces different results, with the former having a third of the contrast ratio of the latter. Same tech/different type of projection, so there must be a connection. For some reason ALPD UST works contrast-wise and ALPD long throw basically doesn't and the only difference I can think of is extreme projection angle of UST models and much better internal control of stray light due to the same extreme angle. Simple as that or maybe I am just talking plain nonsense. That's my theory anyway, but only some Appotronics engineer could verify it or make fun of it.


----------



## lattiboy

humax said:


> You should not be. All I am saying is the same ALPD 3.0 module used in long throw and UST models produces different results, with the former having a third of the contrast ratio of the latter. Same tech/different type of projection, so there must be a connection. For some reason ALPD UST works contrast-wise and ALPD long throw basically doesn't and the only difference I can think of is extreme projection angle of UST models and much better internal control of stray light due to the same extreme angle. Simple as that or maybe I am just talking plain nonsense. That's my theory anyway, but only some Approtronics engineer could verify it or make fun of it.


Thats a good point on the distance; it may help explain whatever they’re possibly doing to the light path. More confusingly, the DLP king of native contrast (Fengmi R1) has the longest throw distance of any of these. Almost at Epson levels of annoyance.


----------



## humax

rooterha said:


> They have a version for 110 but whoever at wupro screwed up. They reimbursed me for the converter at least.




You are kidding, right? It was that simple all along? Please, post your impressions in comparison to your Hisense screen and whether you think the money on Vividstorm is well spent.


----------



## Remy.Alexander

Wonder how this will compare to the HIsense when it gets its DV update-


----------



## rooterha

Remy.Alexander said:


> Wonder how this will compare to the HIsense when it gets its DV update-


I was not impressed with the L9G DV update side by side with the T1... but it should be a nice upgrade for anyone who hasn't played around with a T1 or C2.


----------



## Aztar35

humax said:


> You should not be. All I am saying is the same ALPD 3.0 module used in long throw and UST models produces different results, with the former having a third of the contrast ratio of the latter. Same tech/different type of projection, so there must be a connection. For some reason ALPD UST works contrast-wise and ALPD long throw basically doesn't and the only difference I can think of is extreme projection angle of UST models and much better internal control of stray light due to the same extreme angle. *Simple as that or maybe I am just talking plain nonsense. *That's my theory anyway, but only some Appotronics engineer could verify it or make fun of it.


Not you at all...just my thinking out loud trying to understand why they have the disparity re throw models.

At first, I thought it was more difficult to control light from a display geared for shorter throw.

One example is the $25,000 Sony VPL-VZ1000ES; with all its SXRD LCos contrast prowess, it mustered a black level measuring 0.006 ft-L and peak white 24.6 ft-L for a contrast ratio of 4,100:1. With its Dynamic Control turned off, contrast dropped to 1,619:1. Source: Sound & Vision See Sony VPL-VZ1000ES SXRD 4K Ultra-Short-Throw Projector Review Test Bench | Sound & Vision (soundandvision.com)

Another example is the Epson LS500, another non-DLP, and here full LCD display. That has a measured contrast ratio of 1,830:1. See Epson LS500 4K Laser Projection TV Review Test Bench | Sound & Vision (soundandvision.com)

So, I was thinking the shorter the throw, the more there has been an association with relatively lower contrast and thought the longer throw ALPD would be better there, but I was wrong. That's why I said there's more at work here for us to understand --well for me to understand, at least.


----------



## zaselim

Hey guys, how's everyone doing?
I have a question regarding the screen, I have a custom made screen without the black boarder/frame, and I heard that black boarders/frame helps greatly in enhancing the display. If it is true then how much it effects and what really is the enhancing factor with it and will this boarder tape will help?








1 in x 60 ft - Vibrancy Enhancing Projector Felt Tape Border - by ConClarity – Deepest Black Ultra High Contrast Felt Tape for DIY Projector Screen Borders Absorbs Light, Brightens Image & Stops Bleed : Amazon.ca: Electronics


1 in x 60 ft - Vibrancy Enhancing Projector Felt Tape Border - by ConClarity – Deepest Black Ultra High Contrast Felt Tape for DIY Projector Screen Borders Absorbs Light, Brightens Image & Stops Bleed : Amazon.ca: Electronics



www.amazon.ca


----------



## m0j0

zaselim said:


> Hey guys, how's everyone doing?
> I have a question regarding the screen, I have a custom made screen without the black boarder/frame, and I heard that black boarders/frame helps greatly in enhancing the display. If it is true then how much it effects and what really is the enhancing factor with it and will this boarder tape will help?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1 in x 60 ft - Vibrancy Enhancing Projector Felt Tape Border - by ConClarity – Deepest Black Ultra High Contrast Felt Tape for DIY Projector Screen Borders Absorbs Light, Brightens Image & Stops Bleed : Amazon.ca: Electronics
> 
> 
> 1 in x 60 ft - Vibrancy Enhancing Projector Felt Tape Border - by ConClarity – Deepest Black Ultra High Contrast Felt Tape for DIY Projector Screen Borders Absorbs Light, Brightens Image & Stops Bleed : Amazon.ca: Electronics
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.ca


The felt border on the frame helps with light spill. It can be difficult sometimes to get the picture to fill the screen perfectly, so either you let the border handle a little overspill or you use keystone to correct. If your custom screen will sit flat on the wall, then the tape should be able to work as a felt border.


----------



## zaselim

m0j0 said:


> The felt border on the frame helps with light spill. It can be difficult sometimes to get the picture to fill the screen perfectly, so either you let the border handle a little overspill or you use keystone to correct. If your custom screen will sit flat on the wall, then the tape should be able to work as a felt border.


If the tape really helps then what I'm gonna do is setup the display first with room (half to 1 inch around the boarders) for the tape then put the tape on the boarders while the display is on to set it correctly.
Currently my screen (120", 16:9, fully filled(display) from left to right but has around 2inch gap on the top and bottom) is hanging in the middle of the wall with dark brown matt finish wall panels around it and on all the walls.


----------



## humax

Aztar35 said:


> So, I was thinking the shorter the throw, the more there has been an association with relatively lower contrast and thought the longer throw ALPD would be better there, but I was wrong. That's why I said there's more at work here for us to understand --well for me to understand, at least.



You are not alone there, I was one of the first people, who started reading Gregory's reviews on these units and I am still baffled as to what they are doing. The fact remains ever since Appotronics decided to enter the home market in 2016 and created along with Xiaomi the Fengmi brand, they have kept their secret well. They have sold millions of USTs in Asia and it is not like they are keeping the ALPD module for exclusive use, they are giving it to other Chinese manufacturers as well, who in turn fail to reproduce maximum contrast numbers of Xiaomi/Fengmi prototypes. This leads me to believe that apart from the innate hardware characteristics of the ALPD light engine (advanced light management, contrast, sharpness), they may also be doing some proprietary software optimization to hit peak numbers in order to go the extra mile and set themselves apart from the rest. It is something that Gregory has repeatedly reported, so there must be a pattern. For instance, check out his Xgimi Aura review. Calibrated contrast numbers are almost half of the Xiaomi/Fengmi models. It is peculiar, since they are also using the same ALPD 3.0 module.

XGIMI Aura test: Gregory's opinion. – – The PHC Blog – (passionhomecinema.fr)


----------



## jakechoy

humax said:


> You are not alone there, I was one of the first people, who started reading Gregory's reviews on these units and I am still baffled as to what they are doing. The fact remains ever since Appotronics decided to enter the home market in 2016 and created along with Xiaomi the Fengmi brand, they have kept their secret well. They have sold millions of USTs in Asia and it is not like they are keeping the ALPD module for exclusive use, they are giving it to other Chinese manufacturers as well, who in turn fail to reproduce maximum contrast numbers of Xiaomi/Fengmi prototypes. This leads me to believe that apart from the innate hardware characteristics of the ALPD light engine (advanced light management, contrast, sharpness), they may also be doing some proprietary software optimization to hit peak numbers in order to go the extra mile and set themselves apart from the rest. It is something that Gregory has repeatedly reported, so there must be a pattern. For instance, check out his Xgimi Aura review. Calibrated contrast numbers are almost half of the Xiaomi/Fengmi models. It is peculiar, since they are also using the same ALPD 3.0 module.
> 
> XGIMI Aura test: Gregory's opinion. – – The PHC Blog – (passionhomecinema.fr)


This is correct. The local distributor has said that best stuff are reserved for the factory USTs (e.g. Xiaomi, Fengmi, Wemax)


----------



## eezrider

eezrider said:


> Are you using the newer firmware? With the alpha firmware, Child mode and some other modes engage Dynamic Contrast, which noticeably crushes dark tones/blacks. Child mode also boosts saturation, contrast and likely has a warmer color balance (harder to tell after the saturation boost). The net effect is this is not a mode for critical viewing/comparisons. It's probably OK for kids shows, as the mode name suggests. With the original firmware, child mode was not as specialized as it is now and was reportedly one of the more accurate modes.
> 
> I find Dynamic Contrast produces a very unnatural contrast boost, potentially it's just a tweak to the gamma as it impacts images with mixed light dark elements - it's not apparently reserved for low APL scenes. It has a horrid effect on skin tones, causing unnatural darkening around eyes and shaded parts of faces, for example
> 
> If you're using the new software, I'd recommend you redo the comparison, using Display mode (which disables Dynamic Contrast and seems quite neutral) or Custom mode with Dynamic Contrast off.
> 
> I use Office/Custom normally, with the color tweaked to reduce the magenta boost from Office mode. The result is stunning in my (inexpert) view!
> 
> Full disclosure, I have just loaded the very latest firmware, 2.0.0.2224 and haven't retested the above observations - will try to do so this evening.


I didn't do exhaustive testing but with the latest software it seemed like Dynamic Contrast is not doing anything (like the original 1938 release). I could not engage it in custom and it did not engage automatically in any of the standard modes. Can others confirm this? It's actually an improvement as DC was so bad for the image IMO. Perhaps they reacted to my feedback...?


----------



## Aztar35

humax said:


> You are not alone there, I was one of the first people, who started reading Gregory's reviews on these units and I am still baffled as to what they are doing. The fact remains ever since Appotronics decided to enter the home market in 2016 and created along with Xiaomi the Fengmi brand, they have kept their secret well. They have sold millions of USTs in Asia and it is not like they are keeping the ALPD module for exclusive use, they are giving it to other Chinese manufacturers as well, who in turn fail to reproduce maximum contrast numbers of Xiaomi/Fengmi prototypes. This leads me to believe that apart from the innate hardware characteristics of the ALPD light engine (advanced light management, contrast, sharpness), they may also be doing some proprietary software optimization to hit peak numbers in order to go the extra mile and set themselves apart from the rest. It is something that Gregory has repeatedly reported, so there must be a pattern. For instance, check out his Xgimi Aura review. Calibrated contrast numbers are almost half of the Xiaomi/Fengmi models. It is peculiar, since they are also using the same ALPD 3.0 module.
> 
> XGIMI Aura test: Gregory's opinion. – – The PHC Blog – (passionhomecinema.fr)


The white value in his contrast measurement was 82, which leads me to believe he's measuring off of the screen. Does anyone know for a fact if Gregory measured that off of the screen? If it's off the screen and if the screen had negative gain, the black reading would actually be higher than 0.0343. And then it would be my guess that it's the higher black floor that's causing the relatively lower total contrast number on that XGIMI model.


----------



## m0j0

eezrider said:


> I didn't do exhaustive testing but with the latest software it seemed like Dynamic Contrast is not doing anything (like the original 1938 release). I could not engage it in custom and it did not engage automatically in any of the standard modes. Can others confirm this? It's actually an improvement as DC was so bad for the image IMO. Perhaps they reacted to my feedback...?


I ticked it on and off a few times, but didn't see anything one way or the other.


----------



## m0j0

Dug up a few older pics that might be worth sharing. I think these were when I was running with more saturation than I am now (which I seemed to prefer more of when I was running the ATV4K).


----------



## okvcos

m0j0 said:


> Dug up a few older pics that might be worth sharing. I think these were when I was running with more saturation than I am now (which I seemed to prefer more of when I was running the ATV4K).


Hello, what values do you use now with the zidoo Z9X?
I have entered the values that you have recommended with using the vertex2 and zidoo on page. 150 and I like them a lot.


----------



## mirzank

ProjectionHead said:


> all the new “international” version with Android so I can explore carrying it here in the USA.


Any insight on the international version in terms of colours it comes in (I prefer white), any additional features or hardware differences, and price premium?


----------



## m0j0

okvcos said:


> Hello, what values do you use now with the zidoo Z9X?
> I have entered the values that you have recommended with using the vertex2 and zidoo on page. 150 and I like them a lot.


I still use the same vertex2 settings I have on the previous post and they have been very good with this setup so far, so don't see a need to adjust further at this point. I did adjust saturation down another 3 on the Z9X settings and just updated the post earlier today.


----------



## ProjectionHead

mirzank said:


> Any insight on the international version in terms of colours it comes in (I prefer white), any additional features or hardware differences, and price premium?


As far as I know it is only black and the primary difference is the operating system. Not sure if anything else is different but I have another meeting with them tomorrow and will see what I can glean.
As far as price, I can’t disclose that yet.


----------



## gostocks

lattiboy said:


> FYI, in newest firmware the HDMI issues seem to be resolved for me so far. I’ve done 4 full shut downs and restarts with no issues so far in “auto” mode. Still reading 4K Dolby Vision on my Roku. Will report back if it fails again. Also Wi-Fi is greatly improved on the projector itself. I ran a speed test and got 100Mb/s, up from 30-40 previously.


I'm on current firmware 1.4x and have pretty good wifi speed... Could it just be your router/distance etc?
From built-in fengmi internet speed test:









And had similar results through Google CWGTV.
(I have wifi 6 mesh and home subscription of fiber 1Gbps down /500Mbps up.)


----------



## okvcos

m0j0 said:


> I still use the same vertex2 settings I have on the previous post and they have been very good with this setup so far, so don't see a need to adjust further at this point. I did adjust saturation down another 3 on the Z9X settings and just updated the post earlier today.


Roku Ultra and Zidoo Z9X
Custom:
Brightness: 43
Contrast: 97
Saturation: 45 ----*now*
Sharpness: 55
Tone: 49
Color: Custom (Red: 985, Green: 1024, Blue: 950)
Dynamic Contrast: Off

Thank you !!!!


----------



## rooterha

Just watched Sonic on Paramount Plus and even that looked insane. Amazing what good DV + black levels + contrast does. My L9G wasn't even in the ballpark.

For Vividstorm vs Hisense screen:

In terms of picture quality - virtually identical. The main thing is the extra gain makes it easier to dial in the T1 to settings I'm happy with (and that seem to work for almost all content).

I DO think the Hisense screen has much better ALR properties from the small amount of light I allowed in the room to test but haven't done it in any scientific way. But I have blackout shades and curtains on the room so can get it pretty dark any time of day so isn't an issue.

Overall very happy with the Vividstorm. I think they could make it easier to set the height on it... having to stick the yellow thing in and twist it and then move the screen all the way down and up is tedious. But the actual screen is great and the very few minor horizontal lines I have aren't noticeable when watching and according to them should disappear in a couple weeks.


----------



## ted_b

rooterha said:


> Overall very happy with the Vividstorm. I think they could make it easier to set the height on it... having to stick the yellow thing in and twist it and then move the screen all the way down and up is tedious. But the actual screen is great and the very few minor horizontal lines I have aren't noticeable when watching and according to them should disappear in a couple weeks.


I have the Vividstorm too but not installed yet. Does Vividstorm mean you should leave it extended for weeks to rid yourself of the small creases?


----------



## rooterha

ted_b said:


> I have the Vividstorm too but not installed yet. Does Vividstorm mean you should leave it extended for weeks to rid yourself of the small creases?


Yes - first couple of weeks then i think you can take it up and down as you see fit.


----------



## franzel_magetower

So is it a realistic option to just DM Wupro on Alibaba and ask for a quote for a T1 and a Vividstorm floor rising screen?


----------



## rooterha

franzel_magetower said:


> So is it a realistic option to just DM Wupro on Alibaba and ask for a quote for a T1 and a Vividstorm floor rising screen?


Yep - and feel free to play hardball. I pushed back and held off a few days and they came back with a "sale" (not sure if it was real) that knocked a couple hundred extra off for the package. 

Make sure you tell them 110v for the Vividstorm if you're in the US though  Don't make my mistake.

As far as after support goes, my sales rep has been amazingly helpful over Whatsapp. The time difference is frustrating but they want to make you happy.


----------



## m0j0

So, I came across something interesting. I was watching Season 2, Episode 7 of the Witcher and I came across this scene about 27:30 into the episode. The lady on the left with the blue dress was causing some sort of artificial sharpening artifacts with the sharpness where I had it set at 55. I dropped it down to 50, same thing. I kept going down and down until I came to a setting of 22. I checked facial features for sharpness in earlier close up scenes and all still looked good and sharp (I can still see light facial hair on females and pocmarks on male forheads, lines, etc.), so I think I am going to leave it at 22 to ensure I don't run into the issue again. You might want to check it out for yourself and see if you see it. One other note, I am using custom and did have MEMC on low, so that might have slightly affected things, though I did test turning that off and still saw the issue at 50 and 55, etc.


----------



## Gig'em ATX

m0j0 said:


> So, I came across something interesting. I was watching Season 2, Episode 7 of the Witcher and I came across this scene about 27:30 into the episode. The lady on the left with the blue dress was causing some sort of artificial sharpening artifacts with the sharpness where I had it set at 55. I dropped it down to 50, same thing. I kept going down and down until I came to a setting of 22. I checked facial features for sharpness in earlier close up scenes and all still looked good and sharp (I can still see light facial hair on females and pocmarks on male forheads, lines, etc.), so I think I am going to leave it at 22 to ensure I don't run into the issue again. You might want to check it out for yourself and see if you see it. One other note, I am using custom and did have MEMC on low, so that might have slightly affected things, though I did test turning that off and still saw the issue at 50 and 55, etc.
> 
> View attachment 3258813


Mojo, what screen are you using with your setup?


----------



## m0j0

Gig'em ATX said:


> Mojo, what screen are you using with your setup?


It's an XYScreen 100" PET Crystal ALR


----------



## rooterha

Wish they'd add a game mode toggle to custom so I can use my brightness/contrast settings


----------



## ProFragger

Does anyone know what ALR screen material ships with the Hisense L9G? Is it comparable to the Crystal ones we have access to? And could the L9G screen be bought separately? Thanks!


----------



## humax

Aztar35 said:


> The white value in his contrast measurement was 82, which leads me to believe he's measuring off of the screen. Does anyone know for a fact if Gregory measured that off of the screen? If it's off the screen and if the screen had negative gain, the black reading would actually be higher than 0.0343. And then it would be my guess that it's the higher black floor that's causing the relatively lower total contrast number on that XGIMI model.




I am not 100% sure, but I believe Gregory does measure off his 0.6 Vividstorm and not off the lens. He also mentioned he does not measure ANSI contrast, because he cannot get credible readings in his very bright living room. Apart from that his methodology is exactly the same for all the projectors he has tested. As for the lower contrast numbers of other ALPDs in comparison to the Xiaomi/Fengmi reference/prototype machines, I remember it was also your own experience that the VAVA Chroma was visually less contrasty and with a higher black floor than your Xiaomi C2. It is no accident that the current contrast record holders are the 3521:1 Xiaomi 1S and the 3479:1 Fengmi C2. Basically, Appotronics themselves are behind them.


Xiaomi Mijia 1S 4K test: Gregory's opinion – – Phc's Blog – (passionhomecinema.fr)

Fengmi Formovie Cinema 2 test: Gregory's opinion. – – The PHC Blog – (passionhomecinema.fr)


----------



## kraine

Hello, my measurements are made facing the projector and not facing the screen.


----------



## gostocks

Curious what are you all pairing T1 with in terms of HT speakers? Soundbar? Brand?

I'm currently testing my old Sony Z9F with rears (Atmos sounds good) but because my room is mainly white and natural wood..I think to go with Sonos Arc+sub+2 ones. It's a shame Sony A9 is out of stock and even if I can wait as there's no guarantee SW5 will be even released where I am based out of.


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

gostocks said:


> Curious what are you all pairing T1 with in terms of HT speakers? Soundbar? Brand?
> 
> I'm currently testing my old Sony Z9F with rears (Atmos sounds good) but because my room is mainly white and natural wood..I think to go with Sonos Arc+sub+2 ones. It's a shame Sony A9 is out of stock and even if I can wait as there's no guarantee SW5 will be even released where I am based out of.


The limited availability on the A9 is unfortunate, as I have found it to be an outstanding performer and easy to integrate into my room (ie, high WAF). I was less impressed with the SW5 overall and so have incorporated my Rythmik sub into the A9 system (thread here). Additionally, for the unique format of the A9, you won't have the potential placement challenges you might have with the projector + soundbar. That said, while I haven't heard it personally, it seems like the Sonos system is universally praised for it's sound and build quality as well as software and user experience.


----------



## gostocks

Scott Rosenberg said:


> The limited availability on the A9 is unfortunate, as I have found it to be an outstanding performer and easy to integrate into my room (ie, high WAF). I was less impressed with the SW5 overall and so have incorporated my Rythmik sub into the A9 system (thread here). Additionally, for the unique format of the A9, you won't have the potential placement challenges you might have with the projector + soundbar. That said, while I haven't heard it personally, it seems like the Sonos system is universally praised for it's sound and build quality as well as software and user experience.


Thanks for sharing...I really want a simple solution ...no hack sub. I think I'm going to go with Sonos but Arc vs Beam 2. Arc is 32% over beam 2 and I have 17ft ceiling but Sonos app lets you boost height channel. Or save $$ and just go with DSP virtualized height....Sony does it well so I have no doubts Sonos will too.


----------



## humax

kraine said:


> Hello, my measurements are made facing the projector and not facing the screen.



Hello, dear Gregory. Thank you for the clarification and for chiming in!


----------



## kraine

Hi Humax


----------



## Aztar35

kraine said:


> Hello, my measurements are made facing the projector and not facing the screen.


Bonjour, Gregory. Merci et continuez votre bon travail.


----------



## kraine

Thanks Aztar3, UST tests will start again next week .

PS : For native contrast in laser DLP at the moment, the champions are Fengmi/Wemax and Xiaomi and this has been going on since the advent of their 1080p models several years ago now and this feature has found its way onto their 4K mono, dual and triple laser models. I don't know how they do it but they do it better than everyone else.


----------



## Ricoflashback

kraine said:


> Thanks Aztar3, UST tests will start again next week .
> 
> PS : For native contrast in laser DLP at the moment, the champions are Fengmi/Wemax and Xiaomi and this has been going on since the advent of their 1080p models several years ago now and this feature has found its way onto their 4K mono, dual and triple laser models. I don't know how they do it but they do it better than everyone else.


Gregory - - thanks for all your great reviews. Very helpful. There is something in the Appotronics ALPD "Secret Sauce" for the Fengmi T1. I don't know if it's software, hardware or a combination of both. All the best - Rico.


----------



## humax

kraine said:


> Thanks Aztar3, UST tests will start again next week .



Bomaker Polaris next? Will you be reviewing the VAVA Chroma anytime soon? TIA!


----------



## m0j0

Watched some more content and really liking the sharpness set at 22. Made another change as well. I wasn't liking how the blue dress looked on the Witcher scene, and felt it was a bit too much blue. It turns out that the BT.2020 default blue is just a bit too rich for the T1. I have updated the settings and now her dress looks a bit more teal. I updated my settings on page 150 to reflect the change.

changed blue primaries on the Vertex2 from:
Blue Primary X: 0.131 (BT.2020-2 default value)
Blue Primary Y: 0.046 (BT.2020-2 default value)

To:
Blue Primary X: 0.152
Blue Primary Y: 0.031









Formovie Fengmi T1


Would you mind sharing your HDR & DV tab settings on Vertex? And your settings on the T1? I think im pretty close but yours looks a little better. EDIT: Performed a calibration using Spears & Munsil disc. See here for updated info on the calibration results for the T1...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## rooterha

m0j0 said:


> Watched some more content and really liking the sharpness set at 22. Made another change as well. I wasn't liking how the blue dress looked on the Witcher scene, and felt it was a bit too much blue. It turns out that the BT.2020 default blue is just a bit too rich for the T1. I have updated the settings and now her dress looks a bit more teal. I updated my settings on page 150 to reflect the change.
> 
> changed blue primaries on the Vertex2 from:
> Blue Primary X: 0.131 (BT.2020-2 default value)
> Blue Primary Y: 0.046 (BT.2020-2 default value)
> 
> To:
> Blue Primary X: 0.152
> Blue Primary Y: 0.031
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Formovie Fengmi T1
> 
> 
> Would you mind sharing your HDR & DV tab settings on Vertex? And your settings on the T1? I think im pretty close but yours looks a little better. EDIT: Performed a calibration using Spears & Munsil disc. See here for updated info on the calibration results for the T1...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


Thanks - I've noticed this too. Will try out your settings.


----------



## Aztar35

kraine said:


> Thanks Aztar3, UST tests will start again next week .
> 
> PS : For* native contrast in laser DLP at the moment*, the champions are Fengmi/Wemax and *Xiaomi* and this has been going on since the advent of their 1080p models several years ago now and this feature has found its way onto their 4K mono, dual and triple laser models. I don't know how they do it but they do it better than everyone else.


I actually have the one you gave two Gold Awards to, the Xiaomi Laser C2, and you're not kidding. I have to add here that I understand the T1 is similar with wider color.

You might get a kick out of knowing that I have this little UST PJ as the primary projector at home. The fact that it can be used this way says a lot because my space can be pretty serious: Stewart Screen 125" scope screen (comparable to 133" @ 16x9); 9.2 channel Atmos with all in-wall Bowers & Wilkins speakers w/all front drivers kevlar; 4 overhead Atmos B&W; three external powered subs: 1000watts 15", 12", 7". The Xiaomi C2 sits atop a composite platform to assist with safety concerns.

I respect this is the T1 thread, so I just truncated this not to clog up. But as you can see, my JVC NX is now in the background, which I now barely use. The C2's blacks and contrast are much more than good enough and the sharpness from that single chip just inches away from the screen from those multi-lasers, and Dolby Vision, are all so fantastic on a standard throw screen in a good room!


----------



## lattiboy

Aztar35 said:


> I actually have the one you gave two Gold Awards to, the Xiaomi Laser C2, and you're not kidding. I have to add here that I understand the T1 is similar with wider color.
> 
> You might get a kick out of knowing that I have this little UST PJ as the primary projector at home. The fact that it can be used this way says a lot because my space can be pretty serious: Stewart Screen 125" scope screen (comparable to 133" @ 16x9); 9.2 channel Atmos with all in-wall Bowers & Wilkins speakers w/all front drivers kevlar; 4 overhead Atmos B&W; three external powered subs: 1000watts 15", 12", 7". The Xiaomi C2 sits atop a composite platform to assist with safety concerns.
> 
> I respect this is the T1 thread, so I just truncated this not to clog up. But as you can see, my JVC NX is now in the background, which I now barely use. The C2's blacks and contrast are good enough but the sharpness from that single chip just inches away from the screen from those multi-lasers, and Dolby Vision, are all so fantastic on a standard throw screen in a good room!


Honestly, the C2 thread is so weirdly quiet I feel we should give you and any other C2 people a pass to this thread, especially when you’re showing off a setup like that. I am deeply envious as my screen is situated next to gym equipment in a room covered in cream semi-gloss paint and two doors with minimal light control.

It sucks too, because the C2 has better speckle control, slightly better contrast/blacks, and is whisper quiet. Not to mention out of the box color is superior with less dramatic shifts in brightness mode.


----------



## aerodynamics

lattiboy said:


> Honestly, the C2 thread is so weirdly quiet I feel we should give you and any other C2 people a pass to this thread, especially when you’re showing off a setup like that. I am deeply envious as my screen is situated next to gym equipment in a room covered in cream semi-gloss paint and two doors with minimal light control.
> 
> It sucks too, because the C2 has better speckle control, slightly better contrast/blacks, and is whisper quiet. Not to mention out of the box color is superior with less dramatic shifts in brightness mode.


Part of it is that they are priced very similarly. If the C2 was less than the T1, there would be a lot more buyers.


----------



## rjyap

Aztar35 said:


> I actually have the one you gave two Gold Awards to, the Xiaomi Laser C2, and you're not kidding. I have to add here that I understand the T1 is similar with wider color.
> 
> You might get a kick out of knowing that I have this little UST PJ as the primary projector at home. The fact that it can be used this way says a lot because my space can be pretty serious: Stewart Screen 125" scope screen (comparable to 133" @ 16x9); 9.2 channel Atmos with all in-wall Bowers & Wilkins speakers w/all front drivers kevlar; 4 overhead Atmos B&W; three external powered subs: 1000watts 15", 12", 7". The Xiaomi C2 sits atop a composite platform to assist with safety concerns.
> 
> I respect this is the T1 thread, so I just truncated this not to clog up. But as you can see, my JVC NX is now in the background, which I now barely use. The C2's blacks and contrast are much more than good enough and the sharpness from that single chip just inches away from the screen from those multi-lasers, and Dolby Vision, are all so fantastic on a standard throw screen in a good room!


Thanks for your feedback on C2 vs your JVC NX. It does show that the new generation UST using ALPD from Xiaomi or Fengmi price/performance is unbelievable. I have been holding out on projector upgrade for almost 8 years (from Optoma HD8300) and no regret getting T1. Everything is much better than the old 1080p in terms of sharpness, vibrancy of the color and black level. I almost pay the JVC tax but glad that I hold out as I wanted a laser unit that can do at least 96% of DCI-P3 without any filter. Looks like Fengmi T1 fit the bill and more. Can't imagine a projector with 90% rec 2020 a year back and below USD 3k.


----------



## Aztar35

rjyap said:


> Thanks for your feedback on C2 vs your JVC NX. It does show that the new generation UST using ALPD from Xiaomi or Fengmi price/performance is unbelievable. I have been holding out on projector upgrade for almost 8 years (from Optoma HD8300) and no regret getting T1. Everything is much better than the old 1080p in terms of sharpness, vibrancy of the color and black level. I almost pay the JVC tax but glad that I hold out as I wanted a laser unit that can do at least 96% of DCI-P3 without any filter. Looks like Fengmi T1 fit the bill and more. Can't imagine a projector with 90% rec 2020 a year back and below USD 3k.


I should add that the JVC can get blacker, but I meant that I overall prefer the image of the C2, and not just because of multi-lasers, better looking native motion handling, and Dolby Vision. It just has this "Wow" factor.

It especially looks ridiculously sharp on a smooth standard throw screen, like the Stewart, for example. In fact, I had some guests over and several times, I could heard them say, "Wow, look at that picture"...or "that picture looks amazing." 😊 Sharpness combined with convincing black levels can be a pretty big deal.


----------



## m0j0

Aztar35 said:


> I actually have the one you gave two Gold Awards to, the Xiaomi Laser C2, and you're not kidding. I have to add here that I understand the T1 is similar with wider color.
> 
> You might get a kick out of knowing that I have this little UST PJ as the primary projector at home. The fact that it can be used this way says a lot because my space can be pretty serious: Stewart Screen 125" scope screen (comparable to 133" @ 16x9); 9.2 channel Atmos with all in-wall Bowers & Wilkins speakers w/all front drivers kevlar; 4 overhead Atmos B&W; three external powered subs: 1000watts 15", 12", 7". The Xiaomi C2 sits atop a composite platform to assist with safety concerns.
> 
> I respect this is the T1 thread, so I just truncated this not to clog up. But as you can see, my JVC NX is now in the background, which I now barely use. The C2's blacks and contrast are much more than good enough and the sharpness from that single chip just inches away from the screen from those multi-lasers, and Dolby Vision, are all so fantastic on a standard throw screen in a good room!


How are you projecting onto a scope screen with the C2? The T1 seems like it is meant only to fit a 16x9 screen.


----------



## t333

Hi all 
Is alibaba is the only place to get T1? Im in US and They dont seem to accept paypal.


----------



## Rvarma

t333 said:


> Hi all
> Is alibaba is the only place to get T1? Im in US and They dont seem to accept paypal.


 i bought using PayPal.


----------



## rooterha

Rvarma said:


> i bought using PayPal.


Same


----------



## Aztar35

m0j0 said:


> How are you projecting onto a scope screen with the C2? The T1 seems like it is meant only to fit a 16x9 screen.


The outer parts of the screen are masked.


----------



## loco_motion

Ricoflashback said:


> No one answered my question (mid-term exam) so everyone in this thread has received demerits and is on notice. Just kidding, I think. I'm trying to calculate how large of a screen I can have based on the projection from the Fengmi T1 to the screen (which should equal the stated distance from the bottom of the laser projection to the bottom of the screen, adding in the height of the projector (4.23")) Any thin bezel should be a marginal height.
> 
> This info is from the Banggood site under the "specifications" tab. Very helpful. (No endorsement here, one way or the other, on buying from this source.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FENGMI Formovie 4K Iaser Projector T1 ALPD RGB+ Panchromatic 2800 ANSI Lumens 5G WIFI MEMC Automatically Eletric Focus Keystone Correction 3+64GB WIFI FENG OS 10.7Billion Color Display Home Cinema
> 
> 
> Only US$3,299.99, buy best FENGMI Formovie 4K Iaser Projector T1 ALPD RGB+ Panchromatic 2800 ANSI Lumens 5G WIFI MEMC Automatically Eletric Focus Keystone Correction 3+64GB WIFI FENG OS 10.7Billion Color Display Home Cinema sale online store at wholesale price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> usa.banggood.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3257110
> 
> If I read the table right, for a 100" screen, the distance from the bottom of the Fengmi T1 (4.2 Height) + 13.39 is added up to equal 17.59 inches. Then, add that number to the height of your cabinet and you get the total distance from the floor to the bottom of the projected image. In my case, I'm using a taller 21.7 Furnitech Cabinet since it has the width to accommodate my large center speaker and hold all my components. It also has a great design where the middle "slats" slide left and right so you get unobstructed sound from your center channel and then you can close it up to hide all your components in a multi-purpose room like a living room. My total distance from the floor to the bottom of the projector screen will be 39.29" for a 100" screen.
> 
> For a 120" screen (more optimal) it will be 41.30" - which is not that great of a height difference. I know some folks like to use a much lower stand and/or have lower ceilings than the standard U.S. 10 foot ceiling. In my current setup, my screen is 33" off the ground to the bottom of the image. The difficulty I have in with a UST Projector is where to put the center speaker. I do not want to give up my home theater, Dolby Atmos setup so this is the best configuration that will work with a Fengmi T1.
> 
> I hope this helps other folks plan and setup their projectors.


Hi there, I didn't see a response to your message but if I missed it please accept my apologies. I used the figures from the Bangood website and found that they are accurate for my unit. It appears that you have added the height of the T1 to your calculation but actually don't need to. The dimension "A" is from the bottom of the laser projector to the bottom of the screen. You only need to add "A"+cabinet height to determine the distance from the floor to the projector screen.

As an aside, I also struggled with positition my center speaker. I already had existing Ikea Besta furnture so I ended up chopping the center console down to get the correct height for the T1. My center speaker is behind the T1 and at a higher level and angled upwards. I'm using a VAVA 120 inch screen. If anyone is considering that screen I can share the problems I encoutered and the related solution. Here are some pictures of my setup for your reference.

Hope that helps and if I have got things wrong please let me know!


----------



## m0j0

Well, I thought the blue dress was more of a dark teal, but it's still coming out blue. Same with the Elven Princess, that blouse is as blue as can be... Oh well, looks good anyway, so I will roll with it...


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> Well, I thought the blue dress was more of a dark teal, but it's still coming out blue. Same with the Elven Princess, that blouse is as blue as can be... Oh well, looks good anyway, so I will roll with it...
> 
> View attachment 3259293
> 
> 
> View attachment 3259295
> 
> 
> View attachment 3259294


Blue is my favorite color!


----------



## joseph333

loco_motion said:


> Hi there, I didn't see a response to your message but if I missed it please accept my apologies. I used the figures from the Bangood website and found that they are accurate for my unit. It appears that you have added the height of the T1 to your calculation but actually don't need to. The dimension "A" is from the bottom of the laser projector to the bottom of the screen. You only need to add "A"+cabinet height to determine the distance from the floor to the projector screen.
> 
> As an aside, I also struggled with positition my center speaker. I already had existing Ikea Besta furnture so I ended up chopping the center console down to get the correct height for the T1. My center speaker is behind the T1 and at a higher level and angled upwards. I'm using a VAVA 120 inch screen. If anyone is considering that screen I can share the problems I encoutered and the related solution. Here are some pictures of my setup for your reference.
> 
> Hope that helps and if I have got things wrong please let me know!
> 
> View attachment 3259283
> 
> View attachment 3259285


Hi Locomotion !

You are from Singapore ? do you mind sharing the details ? i tried to PM you, but unfortunately my account hasnt unlocked this feature yet. Haha. Will you be able to PM instead ?


----------



## loco_motion

joseph333 said:


> Hi Locomotion !
> 
> You are from Singapore ? do you mind sharing the details ? i tried to PM you, but unfortunately my account hasnt unlocked this feature yet. Haha. Will you be able to PM instead ?


Yes, I am in Singapore! I have sent you a PM. Hopefully you can access it. Cheers


----------



## Olive51

t333 said:


> Hi all
> Is alibaba is the only place to get T1? Im in US and They dont seem to accept paypal.


I couldn't use Paypal (Europe) to pay my Vividstorm screen on Alibaba, 10 days ago. The payment was rejected.
Paypal support contacted me and explained that their automated "filter" found the letters RU in the transaction code, so it got blocked. They asked me to find another way to pay


----------



## Peter Leafshear

Olive51 said:


> I couldn't use Paypal (Europe) to pay my Vividstorm screen on Alibaba, 10 days ago. The payment was rejected.
> Paypal support contacted me and explained that their automated "filter" found the letters RU in the transaction code, so it got blocked. They asked me to find another way to pay


Have you tried Nothing But Label? Vividstorm screens are sold out from their EU warehouse currently, but they can quote for shipping from the CN warehouse. I'd be curious to know if they are competitive with respect to Alibaba?


----------



## Olive51

Peter Leafshear said:


> Have you tried Nothing But Label? Vividstorm screens are sold out from their EU warehouse currently, but they can quote for shipping from the CN warehouse. I'd be curious to know if they are competitive with respect to Alibaba?


I took the -risk- to pay with credit card. I received it yesterday  delivered in 10days, with FedEx to Switzerland. With Wupro seller


----------



## humax

loco_motion said:


> I'm using a VAVA 120 inch screen. If anyone is considering that screen I can share the problems I encountered and the related solution.




Please, do share your assembly tips. I have it too and there are small ripples and creases in the corners. In my defense, it is the first time I have assembled such a screen on my own. Your surface looks quite smoother than mine.


P.S. Nice set up by the way. Clean and neat!


----------



## 3sprit

Aztar35 said:


> I actually have the one you gave two Gold Awards to, the Xiaomi Laser C2, and you're not kidding. I have to add here that I understand the T1 is similar with wider color.


Remarkable, no "speckles", excellent definition…


----------



## gen_x

So who will be the first to try the global firmware on an original chinease unit? Any hardware revision numbers on the back of them? Some are already been modified and rooted to have custom software I beleive. There was a thread on that somewhere but cant find it anymore.


----------



## zoomx2

gen_x said:


> So who will be the first to try the global firmware on an original chinease unit? Any hardware revision numbers on the back of them? Some are already been modified and rooted to have custom software I beleive. There was a thread on that somewhere but cant find it anymore.


Seriously you don't need a global version anyway just for built-in Andriod TV? Not worth it to have bugs in the software.


----------



## Ricoflashback

loco_motion said:


> Hi there, I didn't see a response to your message but if I missed it please accept my apologies. I used the figures from the Bangood website and found that they are accurate for my unit. It appears that you have added the height of the T1 to your calculation but actually don't need to. The dimension "A" is from the bottom of the laser projector to the bottom of the screen. You only need to add "A"+cabinet height to determine the distance from the floor to the projector screen.
> 
> As an aside, I also struggled with positition my center speaker. I already had existing Ikea Besta furnture so I ended up chopping the center console down to get the correct height for the T1. My center speaker is behind the T1 and at a higher level and angled upwards. I'm using a VAVA 120 inch screen. If anyone is considering that screen I can share the problems I encoutered and the related solution. Here are some pictures of my setup for your reference.
> 
> Hope that helps and if I have got things wrong please let me know!
> 
> View attachment 3259283
> 
> View attachment 3259285


Much appreciated! Nice setup. A couple questions - what are the dimensions of your center speaker? (How far out from the wall in inches?) I'm thinking maybe I can wall mount my center speaker (15 Depth x 35.8 Width x 8 inches Height) as long as the angle from the projector works ok. Otherwise, my center will be lower but angled up in a cabinet that is 21.7" high. Not as optimal on the cabinet height but it will house all my components and aesthetically look very nice. My screen will be higher with a larger cabinet but we'll have 10 foot ceilings. 

Lastly - - we have cats and they could jump all over a low profile center. Plus - - it will be a multipurpose room so I'm trying to keep the look as clean as I can. Thanks again for your helpful post. (P.S. - they could have easily said "from the bottom of the projector to the bottom of the image but I guess that's too easy.)


----------



## rooterha

Ricoflashback said:


> Much appreciated! Nice setup. A couple questions - what are the dimensions of your center speaker? (How far out from the wall in inches?) I'm thinking maybe I can wall mount my center speaker (15 Depth x 35.8 Width x 8 inches Height) as long as the angle from the projector works ok. Otherwise, my center will be lower but angled up in a cabinet that is 21.7" high. Not as optimal on the cabinet height but it will house all my components and aesthetically look very nice. My screen will be higher with a larger cabinet but we'll have 10 foot ceilings.
> 
> Lastly - - we have cats and they could jump all over a low profile center. Plus - - it will be a multipurpose room so I'm trying to keep the look as clean as I can. Thanks again for your helpful post. (P.S. - they could have easily said "from the bottom of the projector to the bottom of the image but I guess that's too easy.)
> 
> View attachment 3259417
> 
> View attachment 3259418


If it's 15" deep it definitely won't work. Mine's like 12.5" I think and didn't work with the L9G or the T1. That's why I got the Vividstorm so I can hide the center behind it (S Pro P with the perforated black underneath the screen)

Before I was doing what you were doing sort of - I had the center in front of the projector (but also considered angling it up in a cabinet). Didn't like the aesthetics of it and not sure I'd like having the center so low. 

Might work if you were doing 150" or something? Not sure.


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> Well, I thought the blue dress was more of a dark teal, but it's still coming out blue. Same with the Elven Princess, that blouse is as blue as can be... Oh well, looks good anyway, so I will roll with it...
> 
> View attachment 3259293
> 
> 
> View attachment 3259295
> 
> 
> View attachment 3259294


m0j0 - those pics look great! What are you thoughts on screens? I know you have the XY Pet Crystal .6 gain. Any loss of white brightness that a plain old white screen or even gray 1.1 screen could work, as well? Reflections? Daytime versus nightime viewing?


----------



## Ricoflashback

rooterha said:


> If it's 15" deep it definitely won't work. Mine's like 12.5" I think and didn't work with the L9G or the T1. That's why I got the Vividstorm so I can hide the center behind it (S Pro P with the perforated black underneath the screen)
> 
> Before I was doing what you were doing sort of - I had the center in front of the projector (but also considered angling it up in a cabinet). Didn't like the aesthetics of it and not sure I'd like having the center so low.
> 
> Might work if you were doing 150" or something? Not sure.


Yes - always an issue with a center speaker that is not exactly at ear level. But I can't see having a real low cabinet with the pets we have. Plus - - where to put my components? I think I've found the best solution, cabinet wise. And, it's a huge center speaker so that will help with acoustics. I really like the clean look of the Furnitech Cabinet and the ability to hide everything when not in use.


----------



## rooterha

On my .4 gain Hisense screen I felt like it was slightly too dim in most settings but on my .6 Vividstorm everything is great... no issues with white, colors are very bright and really pop... dark and bright scenes look amazing. 

Never thought I'd be blown away by how a Sonic movie looked but even that one was gorgeous on the Vividstorm. 

Daytime viewing is excellent due to the LLDV with the Vertex 2 so even with some light every scene is watchable (and still look great)

The Vividstorm definitely doesn't reject sunlight as well as the Hisense .4 gain did but not a big deal since my room can block any direct sunlight - and I can turn a bright light on in the back of the room and the picture still looks great even if I'm watching with it on.


----------



## rooterha

Ricoflashback said:


> Yes - always an issue with a center speaker that is not exactly at ear level. But I can't see having a real low cabinet with the pets we have. Plus - - where to put my components? I think I've found the best solution, cabinet wise. And, it's a huge center speaker so that will help with acoustics. I really like the clean look of the Furnitech Cabinet and the ability to hide everything when not in use.


Yep - sounds like the best option for your situation.


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> Much appreciated! Nice setup. A couple questions - what are the dimensions of your center speaker? (How far out from the wall in inches?) I'm thinking maybe I can wall mount my center speaker (15 Depth x 35.8 Width x 8 inches Height) as long as the angle from the projector works ok. Otherwise, my center will be lower but angled up in a cabinet that is 21.7" high. Not as optimal on the cabinet height but it will house all my components and aesthetically look very nice. My screen will be higher with a larger cabinet but we'll have 10 foot ceilings.
> 
> Lastly - - we have cats and they could jump all over a low profile center. Plus - - it will be a multipurpose room so I'm trying to keep the look as clean as I can. Thanks again for your helpful post. (P.S. - they could have easily said "from the bottom of the projector to the bottom of the image but I guess that's too easy.)
> 
> View attachment 3259417
> 
> View attachment 3259418


My console is about 20" tall and the center channel sits inside the cabinet, tilted up, and it works great!


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> m0j0 - those pics look great! What are you thoughts on screens? I know you have the XY Pet Crystal .6 gain. Any loss of white brightness that a plain old white screen or even gray 1.1 screen could work, as well? Reflections? Daytime versus nightime viewing?


I think it all comes down to lighting conditions. If you have full light control, like a basement, where only overhead lights might be used, you have all screen types potentially on the table. If you watch often with lights on or if there is any kind of ambient light, you need an ALR screen of somewhere around .6 to .8 gain. If you almost always watch in the dark, then 1.0 or 1.1 gain screen should work fine. Not sure about grey though. You might get slightly better black levels than a 1.0/1.1 gain screen, but probably not as good of whites/colors, though I could be wrong.


----------



## rooterha

I did see someone else say that "Display Mode" was perfect on the latest firmware and for me that one is waaaaaay too dim so I'm wondering what gain screen he is using (or if it's in a blacked out room) 

My settings are very similar to m0j0's, just slightly different on brightness/contrast. But I like an image that really pops... prefer that over being exactly what the creator intended.


----------



## m0j0

Been flooding the UST eye candy thread with too many pics, so figured I would post some here instead...


----------



## m0j0

And here's some low light scenes that are hard to capture


----------



## Bendtner

Too much blue isn't it?


----------



## m0j0

Bendtner said:


> Too much blue isn't it?


In person, it's spot on. In pictures, it seems to insert a lot of blue sometimes, especially in very bright or very dark scenes.


----------



## m0j0

A little update with the latest firmware. I have been keeping hdmi set at 2.1 for the past 2-3 days, and so far, no problems. Previous to that, I had it set as hdmi 2.0 and it did occasionally have issues at start that required me to select 2.1, then back to 2.0. I hadn't been trying to use Auto previously, so not sure if that would also work well for my setup or not. Fingers crossed I can go another couple days with the setting at 2.1 without issues.


----------



## JereyWolf

Has anyone who was *not in the Firmware test group* received the update yet?


----------



## m0j0

So, here's the original file (first one), captured on my iPhone and untouched, and the same file with auto color correction run in Photoshop (2nd).


----------



## Aztar35

m0j0 said:


> *In person, it's spot on.* In pictures, it seems to insert a lot of blue sometimes, especially in very bright or very dark scenes.


Awesome sharpness. You might have to really consider putting that T1 in your main theater. I think your Sony 695 has some serious competition, and it's tri lasers to boot!


----------



## lattiboy

rooterha said:


> I did see someone else say that "Display Mode" was perfect on the latest firmware and for me that one is waaaaaay too dim so I'm wondering what gain screen he is using (or if it's in a blacked out room)
> 
> My settings are very similar to m0j0's, just slightly different on brightness/contrast. But I like an image that really pops... prefer that over being exactly what the creator intended.


You would probably want to use custom picture mode with dynamic contrast “on”. Otherwise “showy” mode is essentially like store demo mode. Both of them are “in accurate”, but if you’re looking for a punchy picture that would be your best bet.


----------



## m0j0

JereyWolf said:


> Has anyone who was *not in the Firmware test group* received the update yet?


Not that I have heard of, no.


----------



## donw

loco_motion said:


> Hi there, I didn't see a response to your message but if I missed it please accept my apologies. I used the figures from the Bangood website and found that they are accurate for my unit. It appears that you have added the height of the T1 to your calculation but actually don't need to. The dimension "A" is from the bottom of the laser projector to the bottom of the screen. You only need to add "A"+cabinet height to determine the distance from the floor to the projector screen.
> 
> As an aside, I also struggled with positition my center speaker. I already had existing Ikea Besta furnture so I ended up chopping the center console down to get the correct height for the T1. My center speaker is behind the T1 and at a higher level and angled upwards. I'm using a VAVA 120 inch screen. If anyone is considering that screen I can share the problems I encoutered and the related solution. Here are some pictures of my setup for your reference.
> 
> Hope that helps and if I have got things wrong please let me know!
> 
> View attachment 3259283
> 
> View attachment 3259285


Nice setup. When mine comes in, I want to try mounting the center speaker behind/above the projector. How tall is your speaker?


----------



## m0j0

Another one where it's straight off the iphone (both are cropped) vs. photoshop doing auto color correction and auto levels. The 2nd, photoshop corrected version is closer to what I see in person.


----------



## rooterha

lattiboy said:


> You would probably want to use custom picture mode with dynamic contrast “on”. Otherwise “showy” mode is essentially like store demo mode. Both of them are “in accurate”, but if you’re looking for a punchy picture that would be your best bet.


Nah just using the Vertex 2 with LLDV + Custom settings like m0j0. Doesn't need DC.


----------



## ted_b

I finally unboxed and temporarily set up the T1 (against a white sheet) simply to start the firmware-request game, or at least to join the pool of T1s that will get the new production firmware soon. Anyway, after perusing the thread I found where the language setting is (and changed it to English). I can get to most settings menus, but it seems there are still many submenus that remain in Chinese, is this normal? Or should I ask for some sort of reset that makes ALL the menus English (for example, the welcome screens with various movie posters are all Chinese, as is the online user manual, etc)?

Thx in advance
Ted

edit: my Vividstorm will go up in a few days


----------



## m0j0

ted_b said:


> I finally unboxed and temporarily set up the T1 (against a white sheet) simply to start the firmware-request game, or at least to join the pool of T1s that will get the new production firmware soon. Anyway, after perusing the thread I found where the language setting is (and changed it to English). I can get to most settings menus, but it seems there are still many submenus that remain in Chinese, is this normal? Or should I ask for some sort of reset that makes ALL the menus English (for example, the welcome screens with various movie posters are all Chinese, as is the online user manual, etc)?
> 
> Thx in advance
> Ted
> 
> edit: my Vividstorm will go up in a few days


The welcome screen will always be in Chinese, but all menu options should be in English.


----------



## rjyap

JereyWolf said:


> Has anyone who was *not in the Firmware test group* received the update yet?


Still waiting impatiently!!!


----------



## t333

Thinking abt getting t1 from china..anyone knows if it will be better than original VAVa 4k model?
By the way anyone knows when global version will b available?


----------



## m0j0

t333 said:


> Thinking abt getting t1 from china..anyone knows if it will be better than original VAVa 4k model?
> By the way anyone knows when global version will b available?


Go for it! I can't imagine it not being better than the Vava 4k, but I don't have first hand experience with that model so can't say for sure. Haven't seen or heard anything official about the global version, but it feels like it will be awhile.


----------



## mirzank

Can someone please tell me the dimensions of the box the t1 comes in? I’m going over to Greece soon and can order it there for when I get there but then want to bring it back with me. So I’m wondering the size of the box to see if it’s carryon size and I can just take it on the place or whether I’ll have to check it in. Also maybe I throw away the box and fit projector in my carryon but that may have issues at security.


----------



## m0j0

Tested out using the TV led Dolby Vision instead of the Vertex2 on the most recent firmware, .2224. I have to say, it was greatly improved from the original firmware, so great job by Fengmi !!! I can see why @lattiboy likes it! I still prefer the Vertex2 implementation to this point though.


----------



## m0j0

I also noted that dropping saturation down from my current setting of 45 to 35 brought the colors closer to what they looked like with TV led dolby vision, so good to know if I'm going for more color accuracy its as easy as dropping the saturation down a bit. Though, to be honest, I prefer more vibrant colors so I don't think I will be doing that.


----------



## humax

t333 said:


> Thinking abt getting t1 from china..anyone knows if it will be better than original VAVa 4k model?
> By the way anyone knows when global version will b available?



In short, yes it is much better. Original VAVA is blue laser ALPD 3.0 with 1658:1 contrast, whereas T1 is ALPD 4.0 RGB laser with 2975:1 contrast. If you still want to go VAVA the Chroma is the equivalent choice, but T1 is better than that too. As for the global version, it is supposed to come out in a couple of months, but no solid info on specs and pricing yet. It will be more expensive than the Chinese version though.

Vava UST 4K test: Gregory's opinion – – PhC's Blog – (passionhomecinema.fr)


----------



## jakechoy

t333 said:


> Thinking abt getting t1 from china..anyone knows if it will be better than original VAVa 4k model?
> By the way anyone knows when global version will b available?


I have seen both side by side at the local showroom. T1 is WAY better. There's really no competition to the siblings T1 and XM C2 currently.


----------



## driege

t333 said:


> Thinking abt getting t1 from china..anyone knows if it will be better than original VAVa 4k model?
> By the way anyone knows when global version will b available?


I got the T1 after having the original Vava 4k for 2 years. It's night and day better. I didn't do extensive comparisons because you don't even need to have them side-by-side to see the difference. Btu I did capture one picture that shows how much better the contrast is on the T1 than the Vava. The Vava looks super washed out in comparison. 

10/10 would recommend the T1 - so much better than the Vava.


----------



## humax

driege said:


> 10/10 would recommend the T1 - so much better than the Vava.



This is why they say a picture is worth a thousand words. Nicely done, my friend! I wish all projector comparisons were like that. We would all be saving valuable time watching more movies instead of nitpicking.

P.S. This is also the clearest visual depiction of all ALPDs not being equal. This is what almost double the contrast will give you in practice. Imagine that non-ALPD units are even worse than the original VAVA contrast-wise.


----------



## Titi_78

m0j0 said:


> A little update with the latest firmware. I have been keeping hdmi set at 2.1 for the past 2-3 days, and so far, no problems. Previous to that, I had it set as hdmi 2.0 and it did occasionally have issues at start that required me to select 2.1, then back to 2.0. I hadn't been trying to use Auto previously, so not sure if that would also work well for my setup or not. Fingers crossed I can go another couple days with the setting at 2.1 without issues.


Not for me, i have the problem every days even with the last update
(Beta member)


Envoyé de mon iPad en utilisant Tapatalk


----------



## lattiboy

driege said:


> I got the T1 after having the original Vava 4k for 2 years. It's night and day better. I didn't do extensive comparisons because you don't even need to have them side-by-side to see the difference. Btu I did capture one picture that shows how much better the contrast is on the T1 than the Vava. The Vava looks super washed out in comparison.
> 
> 10/10 would recommend the T1 - so much better than the Vava.
> 
> View attachment 3259729


That is wild! Pretty ridiculous reviewers don’t do actual side by sides of the PJs they’ve had. It would really explain a lot and if you have controlled lighting should be trivial to do. Hell, I’m just some jerk online and I have comparison pictures between PJs I’ve owned


----------



## gostocks

mirzank said:


> Can someone please tell me the dimensions of the box the t1 comes in? I’m going over to Greece soon and can order it there for when I get there but then want to bring it back with me. So I’m wondering the size of the box to see if it’s carryon size and I can just take it on the place or whether I’ll have to check it in. Also maybe I throw away the box and fit projector in my carryon but that may have issues at security.


The original box is quite big and would definitely not qualify as carry on for planes.


----------



## oryschak

gostocks said:


> The original box is quite big and would definitely not qualify as carry on for planes.


I just measured mine and it's 25.5" x 20" x 7.5". This is the mass production "blue" box version and not the limited edition box with the artwork on it, but I'd guess they're similar in dimensions. Add 1" all around if you want to ship it in the shipping overbox. 

Just eyeballing it I bet you could fit this in a large suitcase.


----------



## Aztar35

driege said:


> I did capture one picture that shows how much better the contrast is on the T1 than the Vava. The Vava looks super washed out in comparison.


No. The direct reflection from the side wall is impacting the comparison as to the right-side image.

I can understand this innocent oversight, so perhaps try it again in a different room? But thanks and I can appreciate your efforts. 

I did a side-be-side of the C2 with a non-ALPD UST, and while I can say the differences in contrast and perhaps more importantly back levels favored the C2, I was careful there not to allow any ambient light or reflections to skew the study.


----------



## Ricoflashback

humax said:


> In short, yes it is much better. Original VAVA is blue laser ALPD 3.0 with 1658:1 contrast, whereas T1 is ALPD 4.0 RGB laser with 2975:1 contrast. If you still want to go VAVA the Chroma is the equivalent choice, but T1 is better than that too. As for the global version, it is supposed to come out in a couple of months, but no solid info on specs and pricing yet. It will be more expensive than the Chinese version though.
> 
> Vava UST 4K test: Gregory's opinion – – PhC's Blog – (passionhomecinema.fr)


I think there is something else going on with ALPD 4.0 and the Fengmi T1 implementation that isn't in the contrast numbers. I don't know what it is but for a poster to say that it rivals a NX5 that has a stated native contrast ratio of 40,000:1 - - that's quite a statement. Even if it's close to a NX5 in black levels, that still is quite an accomplishment. I'm looking forward to when Brian finally gets a working T1 as I trust his judgment and value his opinion.


----------



## Aztar35

Ricoflashback said:


> I think there is something else going on with ALPD 4.0 and the Fengmi T1 implementation that isn't in the contrast numbers. I don't know what it is but for a poster to say that it rivals a NX5 that has a stated native contrast ratio of 40,000:1 - - that's quite a statement. Even if it's close to a NX5 in black levels, that still is quite an accomplishment.


Hi, Rico. Yes, I'm a proud owner of both the NX5 and the C2. As I had said before, the NX5 gets blacker and has more contrast, but the overall image of the C2 with its single chip precision, brightness, motion, and Dolby Vision are what I preferred over the NX5. It's black levels and contrast were very convincing, to say the least too.

The native on/off contrast figure of the NX5, the way I run it with open aperture, I measured at c. 29,000:1 and the C2 native at c. 3,649:1. But that's just measuring an all black and all white screen. That's why I prefer average display luminance (ADL). Once content is on the screen, because of the good blacks and intra-scene of the C2, the contrast gap closes.

Here's a hypothetical example on the importance of ADL and ANSI contrast. Take, for example, a machine that does a native on/off of 30,000:1. At 1% ADL, it's possible for that machine's contrast to drop to 8,000:1 but for a machine that has excellent intra-scene contrast and ANSI but has an on/off of say 4,000:1 to drop very little at 1% ADL.


----------



## Aztar35

Ricoflashback said:


> I'm looking forward to when Brian finally gets a working T1 as I trust his judgment and value his opinion.


Yes, I am too. @ProjectionHead , any word on that yet?


----------



## Ricoflashback

Aztar35 said:


> Hi, Rico. Yes, I'm a proud owner of both the NX5 and the C2. As I had said before, the NX5 gets blacker and has more contrast, but the overall image of the C2 with its single chip precision, brightness, motion, and Dolby Vision are what I preferred over the NX5. It's black levels and contrast were very convincing, to say the least too.
> 
> The native on/off contrast figure of the NX5, the way I run it with open aperture, I measured at c. 29,000:1 and the C2 native at c. 3,649:1. But that's just measuring an all black and all white screen. That's why I prefer average display luminance (ADL). Once content is on the screen, because of the good blacks of the C2, the contrast gap closes.
> 
> Here's a hypothetical example on the importance of ADL and ANSI contrast. Take, for example, a machine that does a native on/off of 30,000:1. At 1% ADL, it's possible for that machine's contrast to drop to 8,000:1 but for a machine that excellent intra-scene contrast and ANSI but has an on/off of say 4,000:1 to drop very little at 1% ADL.


Will this be on the mid-term exam? Just kidding. Thanks for your response as I always enjoy reading your posts. I'm not sure I understand ADL fully but I did read this older article to get a better idea of what you're talking about.









Brightness of movies (ADL) and contrast measurements - ProjectionDream.com


Today we would like to share our thoughts and results about which kind of contrast measurement is the best with respect to the overall ADL movie brightness.



projectiondream.com


----------



## eezrider

Titi_78 said:


> Not for me, i have the problem every days even with the last update
> (Beta member)
> 
> 
> Envoyé de mon iPad en utilisant Tapatalk


It might have improved slightly (fewer occasions) but I've still had the problem with the 2224 release.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Aztar35 said:


> Yes, I am too. @ProjectionHead , any word on that yet?


Soon - replacement on the way.


----------



## eezrider

eezrider said:


> I didn't do exhaustive testing but with the latest software it seemed like Dynamic Contrast is not doing anything (like the original 1938 release). I could not engage it in custom and it did not engage automatically in any of the standard modes. Can others confirm this? It's actually an improvement as DC was so bad for the image IMO. Perhaps they reacted to my feedback...?


Well I did some further testing (with 2224) and found that Dynamic Contrast does still kick in occasionally. I have switched it on and off repeatedly and seen no effect and then just occasionally after trying another image or brightness mode or changing HDMI setting I find it's activated itself. This is a really annoying bug as it's easy to interpret the effect of DC as poor quality content (crushed blacks) . I'll report it to Fengmi again.


----------



## m0j0

eezrider said:


> Well I did some further testing (with 2224) and found that Dynamic Contrast does still kick in occasionally. I have switched it on and off repeatedly and seen no effect and then just occasionally after trying another image or brightness mode or changing HDMI setting I find it's activated itself. This is a really annoying bug as it's easy to interpret the effect of DC as poor quality content (crushed blacks) . I'll report it to Fengmi again.


Do you use the built in modes or Custom? When using Custom, I do not see the dynamic contrast turn on. If I select a built in mode then switch to Custom, I do then see dynamic contrast turned on sometimes.


----------



## JereyWolf

m0j0 said:


> Do you use the built in modes or Custom? When using Custom, I do not see the dynamic contrast turn on. If I select a built in mode then switch to Custom, I do then see dynamic contrast turned on sometimes.


I noticed that on firmware 1.4xxx.... dynamic contrast only reacts to certain brightness modes when using the custom preset. It also sometimes required pressing on and off multiple times in a row before it would engage.


----------



## zoomx2

m0j0 said:


> Do you use the built in modes or Custom? When using Custom, I do not see the dynamic contrast turn on. If I select a built in mode then switch to Custom, I do then see dynamic contrast turned on sometimes.


Check the main TV setting instead of HDMI ports. The new firmware uses the main setting as the default override HDMI individual setting. I complained to support but no answer.


----------



## rooterha

One thing im curious about is what the game mode latency is in Custom if you have DC off? It didn't seem that bad when I tried it but I was playing a single player game that didn't really need precision. But acceptable to me for games like that.


----------



## m0j0

So, I was watching True and the Rainbow Kingdom kids show on the T1 and was doing some tweaking of the settings, as my kids watch this show a lot and I felt like I could get a better looking picture. After these changes, the picture was amazing! Great detail, great contrast, punchy, vibrant and deep colors, brightness but not overly bright and no blowing out of highlights. I was surprised to find so much extra texture in this show that I wasn't really seeing as much of before. Going to test these settings on other content later tonight.

(This is with the Vertex2 in place as indicated in my post on page 150)
Brightness Mode: Office
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 31
Contrast: 99
Saturation: 41
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 49


----------



## rooterha

Interesting but with the brightness that low I'm curious how very dark movies will look. I've had movies that looked too dark with brightness at 42/43 so I'm guessing it won't work for all content.


----------



## m0j0

rooterha said:


> Interesting but with the brightness that low I'm curious how very dark movies will look. I've had movies that looked too dark with brightness at 42/43 so I'm guessing it won't work for all content.


I think actually that the increase in contrast will offset the lowering of brightness, but again, will test it tonight and see how well it works.


----------



## rooterha

Yeah I might play with it some too and see - I did notice when I was playing with DV on the L9G I thought it looked good on a lot of movies with brightness turned down around 30 and contrast near max.


----------



## Aztar35

m0j0 said:


> After these changes, the picture was amazing! Great detail, great contrast, punchy, vibrant and deep colors, brightness but not overly bright and no blowing out of highlights.* I was surprised to find so much extra texture in this show that I wasn't really seeing as much of before. *



That's great to hear. The brightness and close range help there too. I also think there is really good glass in these.

So, now my question is to you whether you're hesitant to really say you like it better than your 695ES?


----------



## m0j0

One other thing I hadn't mentioned about, but anyone with a T1 who hasn't really locked in your focus, try going into the focus menu and holding the left button down for at least 15 seconds to make sure it's all the way left, then do single right click about 3 times (4 max). This worked great for me to get the best focus. This is on a 100" screen, so not sure if it's different for larger screens. Also, the focus works different with the newer firmware, so this may not work as good on the older firmware, but you can try it and see.


----------



## t333

m0j0 said:


> Go for it! I can't imagine it not being better than the Vava 4k, but I don't have first hand experience with that model so can't say for sure. Haven't seen or heard anything official about the global version, but it feels like it will be awhile.


thank you for your recommendation. I just heard red sparkle is quite visible on T1? is that true?



humax said:


> In short, yes it is much better. Original VAVA is blue laser ALPD 3.0 with 1658:1 contrast, whereas T1 is ALPD 4.0 RGB laser with 2975:1 contrast. If you still want to go VAVA the Chroma is the equivalent choice, but T1 is better than that too. As for the global version, it is supposed to come out in a couple of months, but no solid info on specs and pricing yet. It will be more expensive than the Chinese version though.


thank you for your recommendation. as a vava fan, i was keeping an eye on chroma since day 1, still bugs are not sorted out and many units backers received have mis-alighted ports as well, dont know how long will it take to be 100% perfect and bug free. Ths is why im looking at fengmi or px1-pro. I just heard red sparkle is quite visible on T1? is that true?



jakechoy said:


> I have seen both side by side at the local showroom. T1 is WAY better. There's really no competition to the siblings T1 and XM C2 currently.


I believe you 



driege said:


> I got the T1 after having the original Vava 4k for 2 years. It's night and day better. I didn't do extensive comparisons because you don't even need to have them side-by-side to see the difference. Btu I did capture one picture that shows how much better the contrast is on the T1 than the Vava. The Vava looks super washed out in comparison.
> 
> 10/10 would recommend the T1 - so much better than the Vava.


excellent response, exactly what i wanted to see... contrast on T1 is much better than on VAVA.. it might little be better on chroma as being ALPD unit i dont know.. but certainly it beats black levels of original VAVA. contrast is way better. i did noticed on VAVA im able to see in shadows [man arm as an example in the picture] and color more warmer, could be brightness/color is little higher on VAVA?


----------



## m0j0

t333 said:


> thank you for your recommendation. I just heard red sparkle is quite visible on T1? is that true?
> 
> 
> thank you for your recommendation. as a vava fan, i was keeping an eye on chroma since day 1, still bugs are not sorted out and many units backers received have mis-alighted ports as well, dont know how long will it take to be 100% perfect and bug free. Ths is why im looking at fengmi or px1-pro. I just heard red sparkle is quite visible on T1? is that true?
> 
> 
> I believe you
> 
> 
> excellent response, exactly what i wanted to see... contrast on T1 is much better than on VAVA.. it might little be better on chroma as being ALPD unit i dont know.. but certainly it beats black levels of original VAVA. i did noticed on VAVA im able to see in shadows [man arm as an example in the picture] and color more warmer, could be brightness is little higher on VAVA?


I don't think it's much of an issue, but I do see a little sparkle in red, especially in kids type shows, but I don't find it distracting myself.


----------



## rooterha

I don't really notice sparkle (maybe its not something I can see for whatever reason) 

But I can say I sometimes saw RBE on the L9G but haven't yet noticed it on the T1 at all for whatever reason


----------



## m0j0

Aztar35 said:


> That's great to hear. The brightness and close range help there too. I also think there is really good glass in these.
> 
> So, now my question is to you whether you're hesitant to really say you like it better than your 695ES?


There are things I like about both projectors, and of course, they are in different environments, so can't really compare directly unless I move the T1 into the theater. I really have a great picture on the Sony with the Vertex2 and the Z9X and in an all blacked out room with a big cinemascope screen, it's really just an amazing experience. Granted, it's not as sharp as the T1 and definitely not as bright, but I'm happy with black levels, color, shadow detail and brightness for that space, and the Sony also has some dynamic contrast options that really push it even further in terms of what it can do, so it would be hard for me to swap it out. Also, I don't have a way currently to use the T1 on a cinemascope screen, so that would be another challenge.


----------



## humax

t333 said:


> it might little be better on chroma as being ALPD unit i dont know.



All three units are ALPD. Original VAVA is ALPD 3.0 blue laser, the other two ALPD 4.0 RGB laser. As for contrast, it is maxed out on the T1 and not on the other two due to Fengmi being a home division of the ALPD tech owner.


----------



## humax

m0j0 said:


> Granted, it's not as sharp as the T1 and definitely not as bright



695ES is native 4K right? So, you say T1 is sharper, but not as detailed perhaps?


----------



## m0j0

humax said:


> 695ES is native 4K right? So, you say T1 is sharper, but not as detailed perhaps?


That is correct, native 4k LCOS panels. The sharpness is not quite as good on the 695 in my situation as I have to do max optical zoom to get 115" diagonal screen from about 12 1/2 feet back. If I change the dimensions down from the zoom and throw a 90" 16x9 image, it gets much sharper though. Even so, I think the T1 is amazing in terms of optics. It's very impressive and there is a lot more detail that I can see with it than I have seen on the 695, unless we are talking shadow detail, then yeah, different story.


----------



## humax

Aztar35 said:


> No. The direct reflection from the side wall is impacting the comparison as to the right-side image.



Yes, the difference will be smaller in a darkened environment, but it will still be there. Numbers do not lie. Anything under 2000:1 native will have some grey and haziness to it. You need more than 2500:1 native, ideally more than 3000:1 to get rid of greyness and for things to start appearing three-dimensional and haze-free to the viewer.




Aztar35 said:


> Hi, Rico. Yes, I'm a proud owner of both the NX5 and the C2. As I had said before, the NX5 gets blacker and has more contrast, but the overall image of the C2 with its single chip precision, brightness, motion, and Dolby Vision are what I preferred over the NX5. It's black levels and contrast were very convincing, to say the least too.
> 
> The native on/off contrast figure of the NX5, the way I run it with open aperture, I measured at c. 29,000:1 and the C2 native at c. 3,649:1. But that's just measuring an all black and all white screen. That's why I prefer average display luminance (ADL). Once content is on the screen, because of the good blacks and intra-scene of the C2, the contrast gap closes.
> 
> Here's a hypothetical example on the importance of ADL and ANSI contrast. Take, for example, a machine that does a native on/off of 30,000:1. At 1% ADL, it's possible for that machine's contrast to drop to 8,000:1 but for a machine that has excellent intra-scene contrast and ANSI but has an on/off of say 4,000:1 to drop very little at 1% ADL.



The JVC being native 4K and having a great lens are two of its main advantages. You are also right about 0 IRE performance, it will be much better on the JVC. Do you have ANSI contrast numbers in 10% increments for both models?


P.S. I suppose you have already seen this video of the blue laser ALPD 3.0 Xiaomi (I believe it is the 3521:1 1S) vs the N5, right? Quite revealing, even though I would still choose the JVC, if I could afford it.

Japan VS China | and the winner is... - YouTube


----------



## humax

m0j0 said:


> Even so, I think the T1 is amazing in terms of optics. It's very impressive and there is a lot more detail that I can see with it than I have seen on the 695, unless we are talking shadow detail, then yeah, different story.



So you are saying the T1 is both sharper and more detailed than the native 4K Sony? I find it surprising. I though the Sony would be softer, but with way more detail and clarity. The 0.47" DMD is far from a hi-end chip in all aspects of performance anyway, so it does not make much sense. Good optics can only carry you so far and the Sony also has a good lens. This is still 1080x4 pixel-shifting after all.


----------



## m0j0

humax said:


> So you are saying the T1 is both sharper and more detailed than the native 4K Sony? I find it surprising. I though the Sony would be softer, but with way more detail and clarity. The 0.47" DMD is far from a hi-end chip in all aspects of performance anyway, so it does not make much sense. Good optics can only carry you so far and the Sony also has a good lens. This is still 1080x4 pixel-shifting after all.


The Sony has more details in the facial area with reality creation engaged, but for whatever reason, I don't seem to get the same level of details that I am making out on the T1, due to my sharpness not being dialed in as well on the Sony (and again, if I were not zooming and just projecting onto a 16x9 screen, I am sure it would be a better looking and sharper, more detailed image). Besides the zoom, it also probably has something to do with the way I have it mounted inside of a hush box with a glass window or how I have it up high and using a lot of lense shift, etc. Also, the Sony has a dynamic iris, dynamic contrast, etc. so black levels and shadow detail are just impeccable.


----------



## rjyap

As Sony and JVC use 3 panels LCOS, it could be the alignment of 3 panels that cause the image to be softer. It depends on your luck if you get a unit with good alignment it would be sharper. It’s always the strength of single chip DLP will always look sharper with good optics but more prone to rainbow effect as RGB color is not shown simultaneously.


----------



## humax

rjyap said:


> It’s always the strength of single chip DLP will always look sharper with good optics



Yes, sharpness is DLP's main strength, however I was referring to native resolution aka distinct 8.294.400 pixels on screen. 0.47" chip and 4x1080 pixel-shifting can only actually display 4.665.600 on-screen pixels and 0.66" and 2X shifting 7.262.584 pixels, so mathematically they will always fall short than native 4K.


----------



## Ricoflashback

rjyap said:


> As Sony and JVC use 3 panels LCOS, it could be the alignment of 3 panels that cause the image to be softer. It depends on your luck if you get a unit with good alignment it would be sharper. It’s always the strength of single chip DLP will always look sharper with good optics but more prone to rainbow effect as RGB color is not shown simultaneously.


Yes - if you're not prone to rainbows, a DLP projector has incredible sharpness. I don't know of any UST projectors that are not DLP. Are there any?


----------



## Ricoflashback

humax said:


> Yes, sharpness is DLP's main strength, however I was referring to native resolution aka distinct 8.294.400 pixels on screen. 0.47" chip and 4x1080 pixel-shifting can only actually display 4.665.600 on-screen pixels and 0.66" and 2X shifting 7.262.584 pixels, so mathematically they will always fall short than native 4K.


It's all about ADL, baby. ADL....


----------



## Grazed

Ricoflashback said:


> Yes - if you're not prone to rainbows, a DLP projector has incredible sharpness. I don't know of any UST projectors that are not DLP. Are there any?


 The Sony VPL-VZ1000ES isn't DLP. Also Gregory just put on his site another Xiaomi was announced and it is LCoS based. Not sure about any other USTs that aren't DLP.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Grazed said:


> The Sony VPL-VZ1000ES isn't DLP. Also Gregory just put on his site another Xiaomi was announced and it is LCoS based. Not sure about any other USTs that aren't DLP.


Thanks. Yes, I know the Sony PJ is LCoS. The Xiaomi is a 1080p projector with only 1,400 lumens so I don't see the interest in that. I guess if you have trouble with rainbows and an absolute bat cave, it might work for you. I can't see any value in it.


----------



## Ricoflashback

humax said:


> Yes, sharpness is DLP's main strength, however I was referring to native resolution aka distinct 8.294.400 pixels on screen. 0.47" chip and 4x1080 pixel-shifting can only actually display 4.665.600 on-screen pixels and 0.66" and 2X shifting 7.262.584 pixels, so mathematically they will always fall short than native 4K.


I always thought that the JVC, Sony and Epson regular throw projectors were really for folks that wanted a "scope" screen or have a bat cave to really show off black levels. From a distance, I'm not sure how much of a difference I could tell between a native 4K projector or a pixel wobulation variant. If you require a UST projector, it's pretty much DLP or bust. Which isn't a bad thing, IMHO.


----------



## m0j0

m0j0 said:


> So, I was watching True and the Rainbow Kingdom kids show on the T1 and was doing some tweaking of the settings, as my kids watch this show a lot and I felt like I could get a better looking picture. After these changes, the picture was amazing! Great detail, great contrast, punchy, vibrant and deep colors, brightness but not overly bright and no blowing out of highlights. I was surprised to find so much extra texture in this show that I wasn't really seeing as much of before. Going to test these settings on other content later tonight.
> 
> (This is with the Vertex2 in place as indicated in my post on page 150)
> Brightness Mode: Office
> Image Parameters: Custom
> Brightness: 31
> Contrast: 99
> Saturation: 41
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 49


This looked good for True, but when I watched Encanto on the Z9X, I preferred the previous settings.


----------



## rjyap

Ricoflashback said:


> Yes - if you're not prone to rainbows, a DLP projector has incredible sharpness. I don't know of any UST projectors that are not DLP. Are there any?


epson have a LCD UST model.


----------



## Aztar35

humax said:


> Yes, the difference will be smaller in a darkened environment, but it will still be there. Numbers do not lie. Anything under 2000:1 native will have some grey and haziness to it. You need more than 2500:1 native, ideally more than 3000:1 to get rid of greyness and for things to start appearing three-dimensional and haze-free to the viewer.
> 
> 
> The JVC being native 4K and having a great lens are two of its main advantages. You are also right about 0 IRE performance, it will be much better on the JVC. Do you have ANSI contrast numbers in 10% increments for both models?
> 
> P.S. I suppose you have already seen this video of the blue laser ALPD 3.0 Xiaomi (I believe it is the 3521:1 1S) vs the N5, right? Quite revealing, even though I would still choose the JVC, if I could afford it.
> 
> Japan VS China | and the winner is... - YouTube



I don't know which Xiaomi is in the video but it's not my model. It's hard to gauge things from videos, but this one is a comparison, so that helps a lot. The video had barely any fast-motion shots. Also, the blacks on mine, head-to-head, look pretty good.

You mean up to ANSI? --I don't unfortunately have that. And anyway, there can be sample variance. So let's say my NX5 came in relatively high at 255:1 ANSI, I would expect the NX series ANSI to be in the range of 187:1 to 260:1 and would expect the C2's ANSI to be at least twice that. I set the C2 down on that platform and it's dialed so sharp, so I don't really want to move it for the meter.


----------



## Aztar35

humax said:


> Yes, sharpness is DLP's main strength, however I was referring to native resolution aka distinct 8.294.400 pixels on screen. 0.47" chip and 4x1080 pixel-shifting can only actually display 4.665.600 on-screen pixels and 0.66" and 2X shifting 7.262.584 pixels, so mathematically they will always fall short than native 4K.


The native 4K panels put up 8.8Mil pixels and the shifters both XPR 1528x2 and 1080 4X show 8.3Mil pixels. To have the 4K moniker, these deliver 8.3 million distinct pixels in a 3840 x 2160 resolution. The pixel size for a .66 chip 1528 native panel is slightly larger than a native 4k pixel, however. A 4x shifter's pixels will be even larger since the native resolution is 1080.

There are a few things at play here with these USTs. The DLPs are single chip, so you'll have perfect line precision that really can only be impacted by lens chromatic aberration (color bleed from a white line usually caused by the lens having a prism type effect). Also, another advantage, and these may have great glass anyway, but another advantage is projecting from a few inches away bypasses whatever aggregated humidity or air particles appear the air in the range of 15 or so feet versus a few inches away from the screen.


----------



## humax

Aztar35 said:


> I don't know which Xiaomi is in the video but it's not my model.



It must be the Xiaomi 1S at 3521:1.





Aztar35 said:


> The native 4K panels put up 8.8Mil pixels and the shifters both XPR 1528x2 and 1080 4X show 8.3Mil pixels. To have the 4K moniker, these deliver 8.3 million distinct pixels in a 3840 x 2160 resolution. The pixel size for a .66 chip 1528 native panel is slightly larger than a native 4k pixel, however. A 4x shifter's pixels will be even larger since the native resolution is 1080.



These are not my numbers. They are from the following article. Again, I am talking about resolution, clarity and detail, not sharpness. Unfortunately, 8.3 million pixels are only theoretically achieved with XPR technology. 0.66" DMD does come close, but ALPD units do not use it.

4K DLP projectors | Is it real 4K? (XPR technology explanation) - projectorjunkies


----------



## m0j0

Did some more testing tonight. I think I found a decent setting that works well across HD and HDR/DV. Here's the numbers I arrived at:

Brightness Mode: Office
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 37
Contrast: 96
Saturation: 38
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 49


----------



## driege

Aztar35 said:


> No. The direct reflection from the side wall is impacting the comparison as to the right-side image.
> 
> I can understand this innocent oversight, so perhaps try it again in a different room? But thanks and I can appreciate your efforts.
> 
> I did a side-be-side of the C2 with a non-ALPD UST, and while I can say the differences in contrast and perhaps more importantly back levels favored the C2, I was careful there not to allow any ambient light or reflections to skew the study.


This was during the day with the windows open. While there is the side wall reflection, I don't think that's much of a difference. The Vava looked just as washed out when shown on the full screen.


----------



## rooterha

m0j0 said:


> Did some more testing tonight. I think I found a decent setting that works well across HD and HDR/DV. Here's the numbers I arrived at:
> 
> Brightness Mode: Office
> Image Parameters: Custom
> Brightness: 37
> Contrast: 96
> Saturation: 38
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 49


Seems like saturation is going to hit 20 if you keep going 😂 that's pretty close to what I was playing with earlier

I have brightness and saturation a bit higher


----------



## Rvarma

m0j0 said:


> Did some more testing tonight. I think I found a decent setting that works well across HD and HDR/DV. Here's the numbers I arrived at:
> 
> Brightness Mode: Office
> Image Parameters: Custom
> Brightness: 37
> Contrast: 96
> Saturation: 38
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 49


are these numbers with vertex2 and latest firmware?


----------



## m0j0

Rvarma said:


> are these numbers with vertex2 and latest firmware?


Yes, sorry for not stating that in the post. Also, testing done using Roku Ultra (latest version) and Zidoo Z9X.


----------



## m0j0

rooterha said:


> Seems like saturation is going to hit 20 if you keep going 😂 that's pretty close to what I was playing with earlier
> 
> I have brightness and saturation a bit higher


I went back and forth, depending on content. There were some darker scenes that I felt needed to be a bit brighter and some brighter scenes a bit darker, depending on the scene, so I went back and forth many times until I found a balanced output that was acceptable. Will probably come across other scenes that require a bit more tweaking, but I felt pretty good about it at the end of the night.


----------



## m0j0

A few pics from last night (I added a touch of brightness in Photoshop to try and get it closer to what I see)


----------



## eezrider

m0j0 said:


> A few pics from last night (I added a touch of brightness in Photoshop to try and get it closer to what I see)
> 
> View attachment 3260155
> 
> 
> View attachment 3260156
> 
> 
> View attachment 3260157
> 
> 
> View attachment 3260158
> 
> 
> View attachment 3260159
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3260160
> 
> 
> View attachment 3260450
> 
> 
> View attachment 3260451
> 
> 
> View attachment 3260452
> 
> 
> View attachment 3260453


@m0j0, I know this is subjective, but in the pics you share the blues seem to be way too saturated. Maybe it's just me! Is this a result of using the Vertex? When you switch between Vertex and native T1 do you notice the hotter blues or is this an artifact of the photos?

For example, in the shot of the group in front of the railings, the railings are blue. That can't be the director's intent.


----------



## m0j0

eezrider said:


> @m0j0, I know this is subjective, but in the pics you share the blues seem to be way too saturated. Maybe it's just me! Is this a result of using the Vertex? When you switch between Vertex and native T1 do you notice the hotter blues or is this an artifact of the photos?
> 
> For example, in the shot of the group in front of the railings, the railings are blue. That can't be the director's intent.


Sometimes things come out blue in the pictures, so I think some of it can be attributed to the camera. However, some of it can be due to over saturation for sure. You can see the other pics I just posted in the 3500 vs T1 thread where I show the same picture with the T1 led DV, then two varying degrees wiith Vertex2 where saturation was adjusted down from my normal levels (which obviously is too saturated for a lot of people's tastes).


----------



## m0j0

eezrider said:


> @m0j0, I know this is subjective, but in the pics you share the blues seem to be way too saturated. Maybe it's just me! Is this a result of using the Vertex? When you switch between Vertex and native T1 do you notice the hotter blues or is this an artifact of the photos?
> 
> For example, in the shot of the group in front of the railings, the railings are blue. That can't be the director's intent.


I checked this again. The railings are indeed painted.


----------



## sleeper37

Is there anywhere I can find a manual for the T1? I’m looking for dimensions and placement information for a 110” screen. My google skills are lacking on this . TIA.


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

sleeper37 said:


> Is there anywhere I can find a manual for the T1? I’m looking for dimensions and placement information for a 110” screen. My google skills are lacking on this . TIA.


I don’t have a unit so can not confirm these, but…



https://img.staticbg.com/images/oaupload/banggood/images/8D/0C/e9dce920-c7ad-462b-9ffc-4541170fc22b.jpg.webp



taken from the product description here, which also has additional information for various screen sizes:








[US$3,199.99] FENGMI Formovie 4K Iaser Projector T1 ALPD RGB+ Panchromatic 2800 ANSI Lumens 5G WIFI MEMC Automatically Eletric Focus Keystone Correction 3+64GB WIFI FENG OS 10.7Billion Color Display Home Cinema Projectors & Accessories from Computers & Office on banggood.com


FENGMI Formovie 4K Iaser Projector T1 ALPD RGB+ Panchromatic 2800 ANSI Lumens 5G WIFI MEMC Automatically Eletric Focus Keystone Correction 3+64GB WIFI FENG OS 10.7Billion Color Display Home Cinema




m.banggood.com


----------



## humax

sleeper37 said:


> Is there anywhere I can find a manual for the T1? I’m looking for dimensions and placement information for a 110” screen. My google skills are lacking on this . TIA.



Fengmi formovie 4k laser projector t1 alpd rgb+ panchromatic 2800 ansi lumens 5g wifi memc automatically eletric focus keystone correction 3+64gb wifi feng os 10.7billion color display home cinema Sale - Banggood.com-arrival notice 

Check out the Banggood page for starters, until someone else chimes in. There is some info there.


----------



## gostocks

Seems the price has gone up recently probably due to supply chain issues or demand/supply from this forum


----------



## jorgemurillo2012

So I just ordered the T1 😁☺ biggest purchased I've done but I'm very excited. It was cuz of all you guys comments and visuals made me get this


----------



## wltam

Hi Guys!

My T1 just arrived and I was wondering if any of you received the official update for 2.0 yet? Furthermore is there any news available on HDR10+?

I am so jealous at these nice pictures of all of you and can't seem to get mine as nice! Is it due to the lack of a screen or Vertex2 or are my shield configuration not adequate? 

I still need to hang my xyscreen up - so I am hoping that this helps...


----------



## jorgemurillo2012

What you guys recommend for a good price and a 0.6 gain screen 120" or higher. No vividstorm lol wall mount only


----------



## wesleyrbk

wltam said:


> Hi Guys!
> 
> My T1 just arrived and I was wondering if any of you received the official update for 2.0 yet? Furthermore is there any news available on HDR10+?
> 
> I am so jealous at these nice pictures of all of you and can't seem to get mine as nice! Is it due to the lack of a screen or Vertex2 or are my shield configuration not adequate?
> 
> I still need to hang my xyscreen up - so I am hoping that this helps...


I send an email to formovie asking for the alpha of the firmware but I received the following email:


> Thanks for your reaching out!
> We expect to officially launch Feng OS 2.0 version in the near future and then your projector will automatically remind you to update.
> If you have any questions, please feel free to let us know.


----------



## JereyWolf

wesleyrbk said:


> I send an email to formovie asking for the alpha of the firmware but I received the following email:


How long ago did you send that request? I sent them the same request for alpha firmware on 2/22.
I received a similar response but it had a time-line for release by the end of March.


----------



## m0j0

eezrider said:


> @m0j0, I know this is subjective, but in the pics you share the blues seem to be way too saturated. Maybe it's just me! Is this a result of using the Vertex? When you switch between Vertex and native T1 do you notice the hotter blues or is this an artifact of the photos?
> 
> For example, in the shot of the group in front of the railings, the railings are blue. That can't be the director's intent.


Here's another shot of the woman in the blue dress. I was able to mess around with the brightness, contrast, saturation and color options (standard, warm, cold) on the T1 to get the blue to look a bit better and less saturated. Also, I think the blue is emphasized more in the photos so it doesn't look as saturated in real life as it shows up in my photos.


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

m0j0 said:


> Here's another shot of the woman in the blue dress. I was able to mess around with the brightness, contrast, saturation and color options (standard, warm, cold) on the T1 to get the blue to look a bit better and less saturated. Also, I think the blue is emphasized more in the photos so it doesn't look as saturated in real life as it shows up in my photos.
> 
> View attachment 3260627


constantly impressed by your images, Mojo. Mind sharing your settings? I assume you’ve only altered the T1 settings and not those on the Vertex2?


----------



## humax

jorgemurillo2012 said:


> So I just ordered the T1 😁☺ biggest purchased I've done but I'm very excited. It was cuz of all you guys comments and visuals made me get this



I seem to remember you were interested in the JMGO U2. You should be happy with the T1.




jorgemurillo2012 said:


> What you guys recommend for a good price and a 0.6 gain screen 120" or higher. No vividstorm lol wall mount only



VAVA if you want cheap or XY Pet Crystal if you can spend a bit more.


----------



## zaselim

Hey guys, I have a question.
My projector is in customs for clearance and I already provided them with the invoice when it arrived in customs now they are asking me to provide additional document 'literature' 'catalog' as they called it. But i didn't understand what they meant by it. I mailed them back and asked them the specifics for the required document.
But incase if anyone of you know about it then please let me know.

Edit: do any of you have the official specs/data sheet for T1?


----------



## jorgemurillo2012

humax said:


> I seem to remember you were interested in the JMGO U2. You should be happy with the T1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VAVA if you want cheap or XY Pet Crystal if you can spend a bit more.


Yea I really was but luckily I waited 😅 and @m0j0 pics convinced me to get this projector looks amazing


----------



## humax

wltam said:


> I am so jealous at these nice pictures of all of you and can't seem to get mine as nice! Is it due to the lack of a screen or Vertex2 or are my shield configuration not adequate?


You cannot pass reliable judgement on any UST projector, until you watch it on a proper ALR screen. Get your XY set up first, upgrade the firmware to 2.0 when available and you should be fine.


----------



## Ricoflashback

humax said:


> You cannot pass reliable judgement on any UST projector, until you watch it on a proper ALR screen. Get your XY set up first, upgrade the firmware to 2.0 when available and you should be fine.


Of all the screens I've researched, it seems like the XY Pet Crystal is a lot of folks favorite. How easy is it to put together and hang up? I like the .6 gain as I believe that it provides more "pop" than a lesser gain screen.


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> Of all the screens I've researched, it seems like the XY Pet Crystal is a lot of folks favorite. How easy is it to put together and hang up?


Super easy to put together and hang. The frame goes together/fits well and there are just two metal brackets to hang on the wall (I recommend using wood screws and going into studs and not using the provided screws). They are well engineered from the framing perspective.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Ricoflashback said:


> Yes - if you're not prone to rainbows, a DLP projector has incredible sharpness. I don't know of any UST projectors that are not DLP. Are there any?


Epson ls500 is LCD


----------



## m0j0

Scott Rosenberg said:


> constantly impressed by your images, Mojo. Mind sharing your settings? I assume you’ve only altered the T1 settings and not those on the Vertex2?


These are the settings I used for this most recent picture with the blue dress (as you said, I did not change the Vertex2 settings):

Brightness Mode: Office
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 43
Contrast: 89
Saturation: 35
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 50
Color: Warm

These are the settings for the pictures just previous to that:

Brightness Mode: Office
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 37
Contrast: 96
Saturation: 38
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 49
Color: Custom (Red: 985, Green: 1024, Blue: 950)


----------



## Ricoflashback

ProjectionHead said:


> Epson ls500 is LCD


Ah, yes. Mentioned before. One of the exceptions. I don't know of any other. The old "up periscope" projector. The true definition of "Fugly." Whoever designed that PJ at LG should have been demoted.


----------



## mncc

I'm trying to find if this projector supports ceiling mount. Can any of the owners confirm?


----------



## m0j0

mncc said:


> I'm trying to find if this projector supports ceiling mount. Can any of the owners confirm?


I do believe it has the ability to flip the image, so yes, I believe it does. Do you have a low ceiling?


----------



## mncc

m0j0 said:


> I do believe it has the ability to flip the image, so yes, I believe it does. Do you have a low ceiling?


Currently I have LG PF1000U installed with a motorized screen from ceiling (bedroom setup). So I'm looking for a replacement and this one seems to be the flavor of the month, as long as I'll be able to install it on the ceiling.

Thanks


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> I do believe it has the ability to flip the image, so yes, I believe it does. Do you have a low ceiling?


I suppose you have to do what you have to do, in terms of mounting a UST Projector. I don't see that as optimal and was wondering if you have an ALR screen, do you have to turn it upside down? Can you get a "halo" on the floor with a fresnel screen? Just kidding. Best of luck to the OP.


----------



## mncc

Ricoflashback said:


> I suppose you have to do what you have to do, in terms of mounting a UST Projector. I don't see that as optimal and was wondering if you have an ALR screen, do you have to turn it upside down? Can you get a "halo" on the floor with a fresnel screen? Just kidding. Best of luck to the OP.


Yeah it has to be turned upside down, due to space limitation (screen is just few centimeters in front of furniture) I can only install it on the ceiling - this way I don't need extra space when I'm not watching. And I watch 95% of the time at night with no ambient light


----------



## Ricoflashback

mncc said:


> Yeah it has to be turned upside down, due to space limitation (screen is just few centimeters in front of furniture) I can only install it on the ceiling - this way I don't need extra space when I'm not watching. And I watch 95% of the time at night with no ambient light


Got it. I wasn't trying to be negative. I suppose a regular throw projector wouldn't work? The Fengmi T1 is a heavy beast and you'll need lots of support for it. Some other projectors (not as good of a picture but still enjoyable) like a couple BenQ models are only 7 or 8lbs. Maybe 6 to 7 feet away, depending on your screen size. Good luck with your project!


----------



## m0j0

Another picture of the blue dress with higher contrast and lower brightness (settings below):










Brightness Mode: Office
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 24
Contrast: 100
Saturation: 37
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 49
Color: Custom (Red: 985, Green: 1024, Blue: 950)


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> Another picture of the blue dress with higher contrast and lower brightness (settings below):
> 
> View attachment 3260714
> 
> 
> Brightness Mode: Office
> Image Parameters: Custom
> Brightness: 24
> Contrast: 100
> Saturation: 37
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 49
> Color: Custom (Red: 985, Green: 1024, Blue: 950)


m0j0 - what really strikes me about your pics is the incredible contrast and black levels. And colors. I know it's just a picture but I bet in person, it's even better. I haven't seen black levels on any DLP projector like this before. Nice!


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> m0j0 - what really strikes me about your pics is the incredible contrast and black levels. And colors. I know it's just a picture but I bet in person, it's even better. I haven't seen black levels on any DLP projector like this before. Nice!


Yes, as you say, much better in person for sure!


----------



## rooterha

I really hope we get the ability to edit built in modes like custom - because settings like m0j0 has for bridgerton work great for brighter content (and even some darker movies) but I've found a number of dark movies that really need the brightness in the mid 40's to be viewable.

If I had a DV Bright, DV Dark and a customizable Game profile I'd be 100% set with the projector for life.


----------



## m0j0

rooterha said:


> I really hope we get the ability to edit built in modes like custom - because settings like m0j0 has for bridgerton work great for brighter content (and even some darker movies) but I've found a number of dark movies that really need the brightness in the mid 40's to be viewable.
> 
> If I had a DV Bright, DV Dark and a customizable Game profile I'd be 100% set with the projector for life.


What would also be good is some customizable presets where you could save and call up different custom settings.


----------



## dami1337

m0j0 said:


> Another picture of the blue dress with higher contrast and lower brightness (settings below):
> 
> View attachment 3260714
> 
> 
> Brightness Mode: Office
> Image Parameters: Custom
> Brightness: 24
> Contrast: 100
> Saturation: 37
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 49
> Color: Custom (Red: 985, Green: 1024, Blue: 950)


Do you have a timestamp/season/episode for this scene?  Thanks!


----------



## rooterha

m0j0 said:


> What would also be good is some customizable presets where you could save and call up different custom settings.


Yeah - I mean they can just leave the ones in there - Showy / Display / whatever and let us customize or reset them to default. So weird to me this doesn't exist... if I had their code I could pump that out in a day.


----------



## gen_x

m0j0 said:


> What would also be good is some customizable presets where you could save and call up different custom settings.


Has this recommendation been made for the new firmware?


----------



## m0j0

rooterha said:


> Yeah - I mean they can just leave the ones in there - Showy / Display / whatever and let us customize or reset them to default. So weird to me this doesn't exist... if I had their code I could pump that out in a day.


That could work as well...


----------



## m0j0

gen_x said:


> Has this recommendation been made for the new firmware?


Not by me...


----------



## rooterha

What's the support email again? I'm going to send them detailed suggestions on my pain points


----------



## m0j0

rooterha said:


> What's the support email again? I'm going to send them detailed suggestions on my pain points


I believe it's [email protected]


----------



## sleeper37

humax said:


> VAVA if you want cheap or XY Pet Crystal if you can spend a bit more.


How much of a difference is there between these 2 screens? I have a chance to get a VAVA for 1/3 the price of a Pet Crystal.


----------



## rooterha

m0j0 said:


> I believe it's [email protected]


thanks - sent


----------



## t333

Hi guys
im back, so based on suggestions i ordered T1 , and it should be here next week, also ordered 120 inch PET Crystal XY screen with 0.8 gain, that will take some time.
by the way I have seen use of HDfury vortex etc devices in this group . I dont have any DV files/content to play, Does it make overall picture better in terms of sharpness/color etc? I dont think i will need it but better to ask.

2nd question: What should i do first once i get T1 other than changing language and updating firmware? before enjoying


----------



## 3sprit

Ricoflashback said:


> Ah, yes. Mentioned before. One of the exceptions. I don't know of any other





Xiaomi full color laser cinéma : Projecteur LCoS 1080p triple laser à ultra courte focale. – – Le Blog de PHC –


----------



## rooterha

t333 said:


> Hi guys
> im back, so based on suggestions i ordered T1 , and it should be here next week, also ordered 120 inch PET Crystal XY screen with 0.8 gain, that will take some time.
> by the way I have seen use of HDfury vortex etc devices in this group . I dont have any DV files/content to play, Does it make overall picture better in terms of sharpness/color etc? I dont think i will need it but better to ask.


You can use it with any streaming device. Those of us using it with the Apple TV 4k / Roku Ultra have Dolby Vision always turned on.

The projector's DV is good with the newest firmware - should look fine on a .8 gain screen with some of the built in presets, so not necessary.


----------



## 3sprit

m0j0 said:


> What would also be good is some customizable presets where you could save and call up different custom settings.


Spooky's tools? 🤔


----------



## Ricoflashback

3sprit said:


> Xiaomi full color laser cinéma : Projecteur LCoS 1080p triple laser à ultra courte focale. – – Le Blog de PHC –


Yes - but that's a 1080p projector. Already covered. By the way - - the two projectors so far mentioned are no where near the picture quality of the Fengmi T1. Not in the same ball park, same city, country or universe, IMHO.


----------



## rooterha

3sprit said:


> Spooky's tools? 🤔


That's what I'm waiting on... if Fengmi ever releases the final 2.0 so he can release it.


----------



## humax

sleeper37 said:


> How much of a difference is there between these 2 screens? I have a chance to get a VAVA for 1/3 the price of a Pet Crystal.




If you can, go for the XY. VAVA is Pet Grid and just OK for the money.


----------



## eezrider

m0j0 said:


> I checked this again. The railings are indeed painted.
> 
> View attachment 3260600


Oh, that is so funny!  ...and I thought I had picked a surefire way to make the point the blues were overdone.


----------



## Ricoflashback

3sprit said:


> Xiaomi full color laser cinéma : Projecteur LCoS 1080p triple laser à ultra courte focale. – – Le Blog de PHC –


Guys and Gals - - sorry I mentioned it. All these projectors cited are the exception and not the norm. My fault - mea culpa. And these projectors don't hold a candle compared to the Fengmi T1. They are unicorns in a vast world of UST DLP Projectors. Like BB's in space they fill a void that no one sees. All the best - Rico.


----------



## mncc

m0j0 said:


> I do believe it has the ability to flip the image, so yes, I believe it does. Do you have a low ceiling?


Sorry for coming back on this. If you have this projector at home - could you check if there are any mounting holes on the bottom?
I can't find any pictures or unboxing videos showing bottom of that projector...


----------



## m0j0

mncc said:


> Sorry for coming back on this. If you have this projector at home - could you check if there are any mounting holes on the bottom?
> I can't find any pictures or unboxing videos showing bottom of that projector...


The chances of me actually moving my projector to look for mounting holes is very slim... Perhaps someone who just received it but haven't taken it out of the box can help. I suspect you will not see any though. This projector is meant to stand on it's rubber feet. To mount it upside down, you will likely need to do something custom.


----------



## donw

rooterha said:


> You can use it with any streaming device. Those of us using it with the Apple TV 4k / Roku Ultra have Dolby Vision always turned on.
> 
> The projector's DV is good with the newest firmware - should look fine on a .8 gain screen with some of the built in presets, so not necessary.


I don't understand how a Vertex2 can "create" DV from a stream or file that doesn't have DV meta data. Can someone enlighten me?


----------



## m0j0

donw said:


> I don't understand how a Vertex2 can "create" DV from a stream or file that doesn't have DV meta data. Can someone enlighten me?


Maybe check out the Vertex2 forum page on avsforum to get more detailed info.

Edit: This thread would be a good place to start reading about the Vertex:









Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...


Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on Projectors? This is a HDFury DV LLDV EDID exploit of the Dolby Vision Profile 5 layer included in the DV spec for display manufacturers and models like the Sony A1 OLED. This thread is duplicating Dave's experience using the HDFury Vertex...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## m0j0

dami1337 said:


> Do you have a timestamp/season/episode for this scene?  Thanks!


Around 27:30 in Season 2 Episode 7 of The Witcher.


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

m0j0 said:


> Another picture of the blue dress with higher contrast and lower brightness (settings below):
> 
> View attachment 3260714
> 
> 
> Brightness Mode: Office
> Image Parameters: Custom
> Brightness: 24
> Contrast: 100
> Saturation: 37
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 49
> Color: Custom (Red: 985, Green: 1024, Blue: 950)


Looks fantastic… thanks for sharing these!


----------



## m0j0

Kids are watching Abby Hatcher episode named game time with Mo and Bo. Holy cow Batman, it looks amazing!


----------



## sleeper37

Sorry for the repeat question, but I will be using the T1 in a non light controlled room during the day. At night, I won’t have much issue with ambient light. What’s the best option for screen? What are people here using?

As I said earlier, I have a chance at getting a VAVA. Or I can order a XY Pet screen for 3 times the price. Decisions, decisions..


----------



## m0j0

sleeper37 said:


> Sorry for the repeat question, but I will be using the T1 in a non light controlled room during the day. At night, I won’t have much issue with ambient light. What’s the best option for screen? What are people here using?
> 
> As I said earlier, I have a chance at getting a VAVA. Or I can order a XY Pet screen for 3 times the price. Decisions, decisions..


PET Grid of VAVA is lower in quality and the recommendation is to go with XY PET Crystal.


----------



## m0j0

Ok, I went in and set my preferred brightness, contrast, saturation, etc. then went in and edited the saturation and light of the blue channel to try and get the blue dress as close as possible to what I see on screen. For whatever reason, the blue gets oversaturated when taking the pictures in the camera, so I am able to offset that a little bit in Photoshop and this is more or less what it looks like to me (albeit not 100%, but getting pretty close). And again, this is my preferred saturation level, as I really like the color of the orange belt and red hair popping and like the blue dress as well, just don't want it looking as oversaturated as it was in other pictures...

I also found that using vivid warm on the iphone gives a closer representation to what I'm seeing in terms of the color of the blue dress. It does kinda mess up the skin tones but it gets the color of the dress right.


----------



## zaselim

Guys, T1 is ALPD 4.0 right, then why it says ALPD3.0 on its specs sheet?


----------



## humax

zaselim said:


> Guys, T1 is ALPD 4.0 right, then why it says ALPD3.0 on its specs sheet?



Actually, specs say ALPD RGB+ (I suppose + stands for blue laser enhancement for higher brightness).
According to Gregory, ALPD 4.0 is a tri-laser design. ALPD 3.0 is blue and dual laser (Xiaomi C2).


----------



## 3sprit

Ricoflashback said:


> They are unicorns in a vast world of UST DLP Projectors


Xiaomi is a new product. We will see if this different technology has a future…


----------



## zaselim

humax said:


> Actually, specs say ALPD RGB+ (I suppose + stands for blue laser enhancement for higher brightness).
> According to Gregory, ALPD 4.0 is a tri-laser design. ALPD 3.0 is blue and dual laser (Xiaomi C2).


Yeah but it was ALPD 3.0 RGB+ on the data sheet.i obtained from the seller for the customs clearance.


----------



## humax

zaselim said:


> Yeah but it was ALPD 3.0 RGB+ on the data sheet.i obtained from the seller for the customs clearance.



Their reluctance to use ALPD 4.0 in the specs like VAVA with the Chroma does raise suspicions, but in Appotronics spec sheet for ALPD 3.0 it does mention that it is mainly up to RB+ with no mention of WCG. We will have to see whether the actual color coverage of the ALPD 4.0 Chroma is identical to the T1 (89% REC.2020) in order to be 100% sure of ALPD version. 

ALPD<sup>®</sup>Technology - APPOTRONICS


----------



## zaselim

humax said:


> Their reluctance to use ALPD 4.0 in the specs like VAVA with the Chroma does raise suspicions, but in Appotronics spec sheet for ALPD 3.0 it does mention that it is mainly up to RB+ with no mention of WCG. We will have to see whether the actual color coverage of the ALPD 4.0 Chroma is identical to the T1 (89% REC.2020) in order to be 100% sure of ALPD version.
> 
> ALPD<sup>®</sup>Technology - APPOTRONICS


Are rec. 2020 and bt. 2020 the same thing? If it is then it is strange that on data sheet it says bt. 2020 110%.


----------



## humax

zaselim said:


> Are rec. 2020 and bt. 2020 the same thing? If it is then it is strange that on data sheet it says bt. 2020 110%.



Yes, they are, but Chinese sellers' specs are not completely reliable. Gregory measured an actual 89% BT.2020 coverage on the T1 and if he comes up with the same number for the Chroma, then I guess we have our answer. There is also the matter of HDR10+ support natively or via firmware update. This is still unclear too.


----------



## zaselim

humax said:


> Yes, they are, but Chinese sellers' specs are not completely reliable. Gregory measured an actual 89% BT.2020 coverage on the T1 and if he comes up with the same number for the Chroma, then I guess we have our answer. There is also the matter of HDR10+ support natively or via firmware update. This is still unclear too.


Right.


----------



## m0j0

Some pics I took last night...


----------



## JereyWolf

mncc said:


> Sorry for coming back on this. If you have this projector at home - could you check if there are any mounting holes on the bottom?
> I can't find any pictures or unboxing videos showing bottom of that projector...


Yes there are 4 threaded mounting holes on the bottom.


----------



## zaselim

Finally, i just received my T1 after 25 days of wait.
Its already updated with fengOS ver 2, guys plz help me with the picture settings. At the moment I don't have vertex or hd fury. I am just asking for the direct projector picture settings.
I am gonna boot it up in an hour.


----------



## Aztar35

m0j0 said:


> Some pics I took last night...


I see you've moved on from elven queens to far-away-land princesses.  Super clear/sharp pics.

The scene with Princess Jasmine coming down the stairs and some other bright scenes in your pics are showing some clipping (blown out whites) on my monitor; is that clipping there when viewed in-person, onscreen?


----------



## Aztar35

m0j0 said:


> Some pics I took last night...
> 
> View attachment 3261136


Could you compare your Sony 695ES with the T1 using this scene to see if the Sony renders the same amount of depth and detail of that grate behind the woman on the ship, and report back. Thanks.


----------



## m0j0

Aztar35 said:


> I see you've moved on from elven queens to far-away-land princesses.  Super clear/sharp pics.
> 
> The scene with Princess Jasmine coming down the stairs and some other bright scenes in your pics are showing some clipping (blown out whites) on my monitor; is that clipping there when viewed in-person, onscreen?


No, it isn’t clipping in person. Sometimes really bright whites come out like that in camera but not in person. Also, I did bump up brightness controls by 6 when watching Aladdin on the Z9X from where I was watching on the Roku with Netflix shows.


----------



## zaselim

Guys my T1 has a blue colored box, doesnt it has a colorful redish box?


----------



## m0j0

zaselim said:


> Finally, i just received my T1 after 25 days of wait.
> Its already updated with fengOS ver 2, guys plz help me with the picture settings. At the moment I don't have vertex or hd fury. I am just asking for the direct projector picture settings.
> I am gonna boot it up in an hour.


What kind of device are you connecting to the T1?


----------



## m0j0

zaselim said:


> Guys my T1 has a blue colored box, doesnt it has a colorful redish box?


If you are talking about the box it was shipped in, I think they changed boxes from the original batch, but someone else can confirm.


----------



## zaselim

m0j0 said:


> What kind of device are you connecting to the T1?


Ps4 pro and pc


----------



## m0j0

zaselim said:


> Ps4 pro and pc


Can’t help you there, I don’t have either type of device connected to my T1.


----------



## rooterha

m0j0 said:


> No, it isn’t clipping in person. Sometimes really bright whites come out like that in camera but not in person. Also, I did bump up brightness controls by 6 when watching Aladdin on the Z9X from where I was watching on the Roku with Netflix shows.


I just got a z9x and noticed it was darker than the apple on several I tried. Is that pretty consistent?


----------



## m0j0

rooterha said:


> I just got a z9x and noticed it was darker than the apple on several I tried. Is that pretty consistent?


I bumped up brightness by 6 on the Z9X and got it looking good. There might also be a difference in brightness between DV and HDR material, so try both. I think you have to bump up brightness for non DV content.

So, for example, here's my Roku settings from last night:

Brightness Mode: Office
Brightness: 41
Contrast: 96
Saturation: 37
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 49

And the Z9X:

Brightness Mode: Office
Brightness: 47
Contrast: 96
Saturation: 37
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 49


----------



## lattiboy

TV


zaselim said:


> Finally, i just received my T1 after 25 days of wait.
> Its already updated with fengOS ver 2, guys plz help me with the picture settings. At the moment I don't have vertex or hd fury. I am just asking for the direct projector picture settings.
> I am gonna boot it up in an hour.


Honestly, use “office” brightness and “display” image mode. It’s damn near perfect with new firmware.


----------



## zaselim

lattiboy said:


> TV
> 
> 
> Honestly, use “office” brightness and “display” image mode. It’s damn near perfect with new firmware.


What about image parameter?
Standard, movie, child, showy, sports or customs?
And rgb settings?


----------



## m0j0

Aztar35 said:


> I see you've moved on from elven queens to far-away-land princesses.  Super clear/sharp pics.
> 
> The scene with Princess Jasmine coming down the stairs and some other bright scenes in your pics are showing some clipping (blown out whites) on my monitor; is that clipping there when viewed in-person, onscreen?


The Elven Queen would not be pleased... so here she is once again, in her fully saturated form:


----------



## lattiboy

zaselim said:


> What about image parameter?
> Standard, movie, child, showy, sports or customs?
> And rgb settings?


image mode is “display”, brightness mode is “office”


----------



## m0j0

Aztar35 said:


> I see you've moved on from elven queens to far-away-land princesses.  Super clear/sharp pics.
> 
> The scene with Princess Jasmine coming down the stairs and some other bright scenes in your pics are showing some clipping (blown out whites) on my monitor; is that clipping there when viewed in-person, onscreen?


Here's a few examples (blooper reel if you will) where things looked fine on screen, but the picture came out with blown out whites or blue/purple splotches or colors where they aren't supposed to be or overexposed, etc. (and again, I didn't see any problems at all with the pictures on screen, they are just coming out in the picture in a weird way).


----------



## Aztar35

m0j0 said:


> The Elven Queen would not be pleased... so here she is once again, in her fully saturated form:
> 
> View attachment 3261377



M0j0, I'm going to have to watch that show now after seeing all those photos.


----------



## m0j0

Aztar35 said:


> M0j0, I'm going to have to watch that show now after seeing all those photos.


You definitely should. Witcher is awesome!


----------



## Rvarma

m0j0 said:


> Can’t help you there, I don’t have either type of device connected to my T1.


Do you have any recommended settings with roku ultra directly connected to t1 (latest firmware)


----------



## m0j0

Rvarma said:


> Do you have any recommended settings with roku ultra directly connected to t1 (latest firmware)


I believe that is how @lattiboy is setup. I use custom but with the Vertex2 I am always sending LLDV, so not sure if it would make sense to use these settings I have or not. I would think you would want to try out the recommendation posted above first to see how that looks for you (brightness: office, image mode: display).

Edit: I did update my settings though if you want to try them out later.









Formovie Fengmi T1


Would you mind sharing your HDR & DV tab settings on Vertex? And your settings on the T1? I think im pretty close but yours looks a little better. EDIT: Performed a calibration using Spears & Munsil disc. See here for updated info on the calibration results for the T1...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## zaselim

So guys i am getting 24.46 ms latency on game mode. Wasn't it in 40s in game mode?
Playing RE2 remake @ 4k on the PC. May be the 43ms number Gregory mentioned was recorded on a console.


----------



## rooterha

zaselim said:


> So guys i am getting 24.46 ms latency on game mode. Wasn't it in 40s in game mode?
> Playing RE2 remake @ 4k on the PC. May be the 43ms number Gregory mentioned was recorded on a console.


Can you do me a favor? Go into custom mode and turn dynamic contrast off and tell me what the latency is.


----------



## zaselim

rooterha said:


> Can you do me a favor? Go into custom mode and turn dynamic contrast off and tell me what the latency is.


I turned it off when i entered the settings for the first time and i just now checked it again and its off.
The one in the {Image/image parameters/custom/)
I also disabled the image motion compensation.
What picture quality enhancement option does?
I am gonna run Horizon Zero Dawn and check the latency on it now.


----------



## m0j0

zaselim said:


> I turned it off when i entered the settings for the first time and i just now checked it again and its off.
> The one in the {Image/image parameters/custom/)
> I also disabled the image motion compensation.
> What picture quality enhancement option does?


Don't turn that one on. When I had it on, it seemed to cause the saturation to fluctuate in an unnatural way.


----------



## Pauljiang

zaselim said:


> Finally, i just received my T1 after 25 days of wait.
> Its already updated with fengOS ver 2, guys plz help me with the picture settings. At the moment I don't have vertex or hd fury. I am just asking for the direct projector picture settings.
> I am gonna boot it up in an hour.


I just check my firmware number still "1.4.XXX", and the system says that is the last update. Any one have the same issue?


----------



## zaselim

m0j0 said:


> Don't turn that one on. When I had it on, it seemed to cause the saturation to fluctuate in an unnatural way.


Picture quality enhancement?


----------



## zaselim

Pauljiang said:


> I just check my firmware number still "1.4.XXX", and the system says that is the last update. Any one have the same issue?


They havent released the firmware officially yet. You have to mail them and ask them for the firmware. I asked John from Wupro to install it before shipping.


----------



## zaselim

I wasnt liking the picture on windows10, i then turned the hdr off from windows settings and wenr into nvidia panel and selected manual colors setting to 32bit, y422, 12bit and wow the screen looks amazing now. And then i turned on madvr for the hdr and movies now look amazing almost similar to my Samsung 4k tv. And yeah colors really pop on T1 and thr black floor is really great, i was changed the red(940) and blue(950)gain back to default {1024} value. Contrast is 54 and brightness at 50, clarity at 50, tone 50.


----------



## zaselim

rooterha said:


> Can you do me a favor? Go into custom mode and turn dynamic contrast off and tell me what the latency is.





zaselim said:


> I turned it off when i entered the settings for the first time and i just now checked it again and its off.
> The one in the {Image/image parameters/custom/)
> I also disabled the image motion compensation.
> What picture quality enhancement option does?
> I am gonna run Horizon Zero Dawn and check the latency on it now.


On horizon zero dawn i am getting 32.13 to 32.29 latency on game mode and in 33s on custom with Dynamic contrast off.
I don't know how to check it on my ps4 pro.


----------



## rooterha

Edit: Below


----------



## rooterha

zaselim said:


> On horizon zero dawn i am getting 32.13 to 32.29 latency on game mode and in 33s on custom with Dynamic contrast off.
> I don't know how to check it on my ps4 pro.


Very interesting - this follows what I thought from my own tests. I was playing PS5 in Custom Mode with DC off and it felt very responsive to me. Sounds like they already gave me what I wanted without me asking.


----------



## m0j0

zaselim said:


> Picture quality enhancement?


Correct


----------



## m0j0

zaselim said:


> I wasnt liking the picture on windows10, i then turned the hdr off from windows settings and wenr into nvidia panel and selected manual colors setting to 32bit, y422, 12bit and wow the screen looks amazing now. And then i turned on madvr for the hdr and movies now look amazing almost similar to my Samsung 4k tv. And yeah colors really pop on T1 and thr black floor is really great, i was changed the red(940) and blue(950)gain back to default {1024} value. Contrast is 54 and brightness at 50, clarity at 50, tone 50.


Thanks for shariing. That's Awesome!


----------



## JereyWolf

zaselim said:


> On horizon zero dawn i am getting 32.13 to 32.29 latency on game mode and in 33s on custom with Dynamic contrast off.
> I don't know how to check it on my ps4 pro.


What are you using to measure input lag?


----------



## zaselim

JereyWolf said:


> What are you using to measure input lag?


You can user afterburner but i was using reshade because i use reshade+modify my own preset with games, It has the option to show fps and latency (assuming latency(ms) and input lag is the same). 
You can also use reshade with mpc for so many effects, i use it for some horror/fantasy shows/movies to add some bloom/ambient lighting etc to make the horror more spooky and fantasy show/movies to look rpg games like lol.


----------



## lattiboy

zaselim said:


> You can user afterburner but i was using reshade because i use reshade+modify my own preset with games, It has the option to show fps and latency (assuming latency(ms) and input lag is the same).
> You can also use reshade with mpc for so many effects, i use it for some horror/fantasy shows/movies to add some bloom/ambient lighting etc to make the horror more spooky and fantasy show/movies to look rpg games like lol.


Just so you know, people were asking you to test dynamic contrast on / off because there is speculation that it’s “always on” and that is how the contrast is so good compared to other projectors. If there is a lag difference, that makes it very unlikely that is the case, as it would take at least a few ms to do such convincing active dimming.

I am pretty sure that’s not the case, as game mode looks just as good as most other modes and has some of the lowest lag around.


----------



## Malaveae

Pauljiang said:


> I just check my firmware number still "1.4.XXX", and the system says that is the last update. Any one have the same issue?


Yes, I'm on the same situation.

They respond:
"There may be some unknown problems in our internal beta version, which is currently being improved and will be released soon. 
Please look forward to it!"

At least they are working to get a 2ver release properly.


----------



## driege

zaselim said:


> You can user afterburner but i was using reshade because i use reshade+modify my own preset with games, It has the option to show fps and latency (assuming latency(ms) and input lag is the same).


I'm guessing that's actually the ping latency of your internet connection (the time the packets take to reach the game servers from your home).


----------



## Malaveae

JereyWolf said:


> Yes there are 4 threaded mounting holes on the bottom.
> 
> View attachment 3261166


Took this one from T1 manual. All is in chineese.


----------



## antjes

lattiboy said:


> Just so you know, people were asking you to test dynamic contrast on / off because there is speculation that it’s “always on” and that is how the contrast is so good compared to other projectors. If there is a lag difference, that makes it very unlikely that is the case, as it would take at least a few ms to do such convincing active dimming.
> 
> I am pretty sure that’s not the case, as game mode looks just as good as most other modes and has some of the lowest lag around.


I was testing dynamic contrast and this is my conclusion:
- DC is working but crushes blacks then Its not suitable for my taste.

This is how I realized its behaviour. Select custom mode and make sure DC is off. Go to a scene at very low APL(dark), pause image and look for any shadow detail to track, then activate DC on custom mode, focus your eyes in the shadow detail and you will see how very slowly disappear. If you open a menu which gets APL up then the shadow detail will appear slowly but when close that Window the blacks crush again. It is a kind of brightness tunning and not laser ”iris”, and an action very slow, so not worthy in MHO.


----------



## zaselim

lattiboy said:


> Just so you know, people were asking you to test dynamic contrast on / off because there is speculation that it’s “always on” and that is how the contrast is so good compared to other projectors. If there is a lag difference, that makes it very unlikely that is the case, as it would take at least a few ms to do such convincing active dimming.
> 
> I am pretty sure that’s not the case, as game mode looks just as good as most other modes and has some of the lowest lag around.


Oh right, i will then check it today with dynamic contrast on.


----------



## zaselim

driege said:


> I'm guessing that's actually the ping latency of your internet connection (the time the packets take to reach the game servers from your home).


But my internet was off (network disabled from windows settings). So far i have only checked Resident Evil 2 remake and Horizon Zero Dawn, both are offline games as well.


----------



## JereyWolf

zaselim said:


> But my internet was off (network disabled from windows settings). So far i have only checked Resident Evil 2 remake and Horizon Zero Dawn, both are offline games as well.


Ahh ok. MSI afterburner is likely just returning a PC latency value. The input lag number that was in Gregory's review was for the delay between input and response to the projector. That requires capturing what's happing on screen with an external sensor.

This graphic is an example of latency across the full signal chain and the input lag that is typically referred to, is specifically for the display.


----------



## rjyap

One way to test latency is run a timer and duplicate the screen from laptop to the projector. If u own a gaming laptop with known latency value, then use your phone camera to take a photo that include your laptop screen and projection screen timer. The time difference + laptop screen latency would be the actual latency.


----------



## JereyWolf

Whatever the real input lag value is, I'm happy with it. It feels very responsive with mouse and keyboard.


----------



## zaselim

JereyWolf said:


> Whatever the real input lag value is, I'm happy with it. It feels very responsive with mouse and keyboard.


Yeah it is.
Is there a way to see the used hours on the T1 like the normal projectors have the option.


----------



## zaselim

rjyap said:


> One way to test latency is run a timer and duplicate the screen from laptop to the projector. If u own a gaming laptop with known latency value, then use your phone camera to take a photo that include your laptop screen and projection screen timer. The time difference + laptop screen latency would be the actual latency.


I dont about the afterburner that much since i dont use it. But yeah i could be that but still the input response looks great for offline gaming.
Are you using custom settings with T1, if you do then can you tell me your custom temp RGB and tone setting?
On default it shows slight green tint in the blue colored things. Looks fine on pre existing presets likr display or game mode.


----------



## m0j0

EDIT: Performed a calibration using Spears & Munsil disc. See here for updated info on the calibration results:








Formovie Fengmi T1


Try unplug the cable and plug in again. Sometimes it doesn’t detect the signal.




www.avsforum.com





Just FYI, for those with the Vertex2 and Roku Ultra and/or Zidoo Z9X, these are the settings I have been using recently that are working really well. I have found that I need to have separate settings for the Roku and Z9X, and on each I need to change settings based on the content to get best performance. On the Roku, I have better results for 1080P content (the stuff my kids watch a lot) when I use higher contrast and lower brightness settings, and better results with 4K / DV content (like the Witcher and Bridgerton, etc.) with a more balanced brightness/contrast approach. On the Z9X, I get best performance on HDR movies with really cranked up brightness/contrast combo, and then for native DV, I have to dial things way back on contrast to get it looking really dialed in.

Brightness Mode: Office

Image Parameters:


Roku Ultra (4K/DV streaming content)
Brightness Mode: Office
Brightness: 41
Contrast: 96
Saturation: 37
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 49
Color: Custom (Red: 985, Green: 1024, Blue: 950)
Dynamic Contrast: Off

Roku Ultra (1080P content)
Brightness Mode: Office
Brightness: 26
Contrast: 99
Saturation: 37
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 49
Color: Custom (Red: 985, Green: 1024, Blue: 950)
Dynamic Contrast: Off

Zidoo Z9X (4K HDR but not native DV)
Brightness Mode: Office
Brightness: 46
Contrast: 100
Saturation: 37
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 49
Color: Custom (Red: 985, Green: 1024, Blue: 950)
Dynamic Contrast: Off

Zidoo Z9X (Native DV content)
Brightness Mode: Office
Brightness: 41
Contrast: 85
Saturation: 37
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 49
Color: Custom (Red: 985, Green: 1024, Blue: 950)
Dynamic Contrast: Off


----------



## eezrider

m0j0 said:


> I bumped up brightness by 6 on the Z9X and got it looking good. There might also be a difference in brightness between DV and HDR material, so try both. I think you have to bump up brightness for non DV content.
> 
> So, for example, here's my Roku settings from last night:
> 
> Brightness Mode: Office
> Brightness: 41
> Contrast: 96
> Saturation: 37
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 49
> 
> And the Z9X:
> 
> Brightness Mode: Office
> Brightness: 47
> Contrast: 96
> Saturation: 37
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 49


You're using Vertex, correct? If so, it might be good to mention that when you post settings.

Edit: I see you've done that in later posts


----------



## JereyWolf

I've notice an odd phenomenon on my T1. From the lower left corner there's a constant stream of ripples that appear to emanate and then disappear about 1/8 of the way across the screen. It's very obvious when there is a light, solid color on screen. I can see if from my seat 16 feet away, but it has been extremely tough to capture on camera. It looks similar to ripples on the surface of water. I uploaded a video to youtube but the compression killed the visibility of the ripples, so it's not even worth sharing.

Has anyone else seen something like this?

The photo barely shows the waves, but it's the best I could get.


----------



## m0j0

Interesting thing I noticed from a picture I took yesterday with previous settings and the same picture I took last night with the new settings (on Vertex2 + Z9X). At first glance, the pictures look the same, but if you look at her face, you can see that the 2nd pic has some sunlight and shadow on it that the first one doesn't and the face is just brighter in general, so it seems with the new settings I am able to squeeze out a bit more accurate light details. Pretty cool.

Previous settings pic:









New settings pic:


----------



## m0j0

JereyWolf said:


> I've notice an odd phenomenon on my T1. From the lower left corner there's a constant stream of ripples that appear to emanate and then disappear about 1/8 of the way across the screen. It's very obvious when there is a light, solid color on screen. I can see if from my seat 16 feet away, but it has been extremely tough to capture on camera. It looks similar to ripples on the surface of water. I uploaded a video to youtube but the compression killed the visibility of the ripples, so it's not even worth sharing.
> 
> Has anyone else seen something like this?


What kind of screen do you have? It sounds like maybe the surface of the screen isn't tight? It may also be dust. If you don't have one, you should buy some cans of compressed air and use it on the glass occasionally to keep it free of dust.


----------



## JereyWolf

m0j0 said:


> What kind of screen do you have? It sounds like maybe the surface of the screen isn't tight? It may also be dust. If you don't have one, you should buy some cans of compressed air and use it on the glass occasionally to keep it free of dust.


It's a fixed frame, spring tension screen, Grandview Dynamique.
This effect is definitely from the projector. I can touch the screen and see that it does not change.
It's only happening in one corner. It's constant and has been there since the day I set it up.

I added a photo to the original post but it's not a great representation of how it looks in person.


----------



## rooterha

Haven't noticed that - have you tried adjusting the focus? Doesn't sound good though


----------



## Meu Tech Mundo

Hi friends, my name is Luiz from MEU TECH MUNDO youtube channel. My T1 arrived yesterday and wow! Fantastic projector.
I have several UST like Xiaomi Mijia 4k, Fengmi 2000 ansi, Fengmi 4k cinema, Fengmi R1, R1 Nano among other frontals that I receive for demonstration on my Youtube channel.
The T1 with Dolby Vision/Atmos was the most amazing thing my eyes have ever seen and I am so happy with it. 

I use Mi stick 4k with Atmos/Vision(hdmi 2.1) connected to my Vizio 5.1.2 atmos soundbar and it's perfect. I also use Xbox one X with atmos/vision (but with hdmi in 2.0 because in 2.1 it's a problem) and I also use it with the PS5 in 2.1. Perfect.

The only problem I've found so far is that when I turn off the device using the on and off button or the remote control, it turns off the image but apparently it keeps the fan on and even if I try to turn it on again it doesn't turn on. Then I have to unplug the power outlet and plug it back in. Does anyone know what can it be?
Thank you very much!
Soon video on my channel.


https://www.youtube.com/meutechmundo


----------



## Aztar35

JereyWolf said:


> I've notice an odd phenomenon on my T1. From the lower left corner there's a constant stream of ripples that appear to emanate and then disappear about 1/8 of the way across the screen. It's very obvious when there is a light, solid color on screen. I can see if from my seat 16 feet away, but it has been extremely tough to capture on camera. It looks similar to ripples on the surface of water. I uploaded a video to youtube but the compression killed the visibility of the ripples, so it's not even worth sharing.
> 
> Has anyone else seen something like this?
> 
> The photo barely shows the waves, but it's the best I could get.
> View attachment 3261713


What is the source projecting that image? Make sure your source settings are set to auto or try setting chroma. Try 4:4:4 and report back.


----------



## m0j0

Meu Tech Mundo said:


> Hi friends, my name is Luiz from MEU TECH MUNDO youtube channel. My T1 arrived yesterday and wow! Fantastic projector.
> I have several UST like Xiaomi Mijia 4k, Fengmi 2000 ansi, Fengmi 4k cinema, Fengmi R1, R1 Nano among other frontals that I receive for demonstration on my Youtube channel.
> The T1 with Dolby Vision/Atmos was the most amazing thing my eyes have ever seen and I am so happy with it.
> 
> I use Mi stick 4k with Atmos/Vision(hdmi 2.1) connected to my Vizio 5.1.2 atmos soundbar and it's perfect. I also use Xbox one X with atmos/vision (but with hdmi in 2.0 because in 2.1 it's a problem) and I also use it with the PS5 in 2.1. Perfect.
> 
> The only problem I've found so far is that when I turn off the device using the on and off button or the remote control, it turns off the image but apparently it keeps the fan on and even if I try to turn it on again it doesn't turn on. Then I have to unplug the power outlet and plug it back in. Does anyone know what can it be?
> Thank you very much!
> Soon video on my channel.
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/meutechmundo


Interesting. If I tap the power button on my remote, it gives me some options. Are you pressing and holding or just single tapping the power button?


----------



## Meu Tech Mundo

m0j0 said:


> Interesting. If I tap the power button on my remote, it gives me some options. Are you pressing and holding or just single tapping the power button?


I try 2 ways, Tap in off button and wait and tap 2 times.


----------



## Aztar35

Meu Tech Mundo said:


> Hi friends, my name is Luiz from MEU TECH MUNDO youtube channel. My T1 arrived yesterday and wow! Fantastic projector.
> I have several UST like Xiaomi Mijia 4k, Fengmi 2000 ansi, Fengmi 4k cinema, Fengmi R1, R1 Nano among other frontals that I receive for demonstration on my Youtube channel.
> The T1 with Dolby Vision/Atmos was the most amazing thing my eyes have ever seen and I am so happy with it.
> 
> I use Mi stick 4k with Atmos/Vision(hdmi 2.1) connected to my Vizio 5.1.2 atmos soundbar and it's perfect. I also use Xbox one X with atmos/vision (but with hdmi in 2.0 because in 2.1 it's a problem) and I also use it with the PS5 in 2.1. Perfect.
> 
> The only problem I've found so far is that when I turn off the device using the on and off button or the remote control, it turns off the image but apparently it keeps the fan on and even if I try to turn it on again it doesn't turn on. Then I have to unplug the power outlet and plug it back in. Does anyone know what can it be?
> Thank you very much!
> Soon video on my channel.
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/meutechmundo


It may be an actual overheating problem or a failed heat sensor relay. Cautiously check to see if the projector is generating excessive heat.


----------



## JereyWolf

Aztar35 said:


> What is the source projecting that image? Make sure your source settings are set to auto or try setting chroma. Try 4:4:4 and report back.


It's there regardless of input source. It's visible on the projectors built in OS. It looks like there's something on the inside of my lens. I can't wipe it off from the outside.


----------



## m0j0

JereyWolf said:


> It's there regardless of input source. It's visible on the projectors built in OS. It looks like there's something on the inside of my lens. I can't wipe it off from the outside.
> 
> View attachment 3261733


Try blasting some canned air in from each sides fan vent.


----------



## Aztar35

Your unit was brand new?


----------



## Meu Tech Mundo

Aztar35 said:


> It may be an actual overheating problem or a failed heat sensor relay. Even if not, that should go back for repair/replace, etc. Cautiously check to see if the projector is generating excessive heat.


Thank you! Normal heat. Now i try to press and hold the off button and work. I'm going to keep testing


----------



## Aztar35

m0j0 said:


> Try blasting some canned air in from each sides fan vent.


I don't think the vents reach the lens, at least on the C2. I saw some very slight dust on the mirror shining a bright LED into the lens and thought perhaps the dust was getting on there through the vents. So I shined a super bright LED flashlight into both vent ports to see if light appeared looking into the lens, but there was zero light that I could see through the lens.


----------



## Meu Tech Mundo

Aztar35 said:


> Sua unidade era nova?
> [/CITAÇÃO]
> Yes, i receive yesterday


----------



## Aztar35

Meu Tech Mundo said:


> Thank you! Normal heat. Now i try to press and hold the off button and work. I'm going to keep testing


Is the fan still staying on indefinitely? After the PJ is turned off?


----------



## Meu Tech Mundo

Aztar35 said:


> Is the fan still staying on indefinitely? After the PJ is turned off?


If I push and hold the on/off buttom, no.
Only if I push and wait or if I push 2 times


----------



## Aztar35

JereyWolf said:


> It's there regardless of input source. It's visible on the projectors built in OS. It looks like there's something on the inside of my lens. I can't wipe it off from the outside.





m0j0 said:


> Try blasting some canned air in from each sides fan vent.


I'm just curious, if you guys see some dust on your mirror of your T1s when shining a light while the projector is off (of course, never look into that lens when the projector is on).

I don't think these are hermetically sealed but not sure. Anyway, like I posted, it doesn't appear the air is getting into the mirror area.


----------



## Aztar35

Meu Tech Mundo said:


> If I push and hold the on/off buttom, no.
> Only if I push and wait or if I push 2 times


Oh...then M0j0 was correct. On my C2, if I hold down the off button, it will pull up a shutting down icon and then I just hit the center remote button and it instantly shuts off. Now that you reported more on this, it seems you were just blanking out yours and not doing a shut off and your projector is actually fine. 

Yikes. Now my advice seems more like someone who says check the car for engine failure before seeing if the gas gauge was empty.


----------



## m0j0

Some pictures from recent testing with the Zidoo Z9X and the T1 (connected to Vertex2):


----------



## sleeper37

Wow, really nice images there, m0j0. Now,
Could the T1 produce the same colors without the Vertex? My source would be an Nvidia Shield Pro streaming Netflix and Plex.


----------



## zaselim

Custom temp settings are not changing when i try to change them and I remember someone posted the fix about. I am sorry to ask it again, can some post me or point me to the page number where that fix was posted.
Thanks


----------



## Brajesh

Some of those screenshots look more natural, but others oversaturated & too blue (at least for my taste), especially the 'Aladdin' shots.


----------



## m0j0

Brajesh said:


> Some of those screenshots look more natural, but others oversaturated & too blue (at least for my taste), especially the 'Aladdin' shots.


As I mentioned before, the blue is getting oversaturated by the camera.


----------



## ba_crane

m0j0 said:


> Some pictures from recent testing with the Zidoo Z9X and the T1 (connected to Vertex2):
> 
> View attachment 3261754
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> 
> View attachment 3261774


These pictures look beautiful!
Are you using a scope screen or 16:9? It looks like the black bars above the image are non-existent.


----------



## JackB

m0j0 said:


> Some pictures from recent testing with the Zidoo Z9X and the T1 (connected to Vertex2):
> 
> View attachment 3261754
> 
> 
> View attachment 3261755
> 
> 
> View attachment 3261756
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> View attachment 3261774


Those are nice pictures but my ten year old projector looks just as nice when the scenes are lit like that. The real test is a dark scene that has no light in the scene. How about a picture from The Witcher, S1,E1, 46:06 to 46:12? Or 49:03. That is a real test of black levels and contrast.


----------



## rooterha

Yeah every heavily blue shot I've taken looks way overblown - here's an example from pacific rim looks nowhere near that blue in real life (although I have turned saturation down more like m0j0 since)


----------



## m0j0

ba_crane said:


> These pictures look beautiful!
> Are you using a scope screen or 16:9? It looks like the black bars above the image are non-existent.


16x9 100” Xy screens Pet Crystal ALR screen


----------



## m0j0

JackB said:


> Those are nice pictures but my ten year old projector looks just as nice when the scenes are lit like that. The real test is a dark scene that has no light in the scene. How about a picture from The Witcher, S1,E1, 46:06 to 46:12? Or 49:03. That is a real test of black levels and contrast.


Dark, low light scenes look pretty good in person (for a DLP projector), but I am not able to get decent pictures of those type of scenes unfortunately.


----------



## m0j0

sleeper37 said:


> Wow, really nice images there, m0j0. Now,
> Could the T1 produce the same colors without the Vertex? My source would be an Nvidia Shield Pro streaming Netflix and Plex.


In previous testing with the latest firmware, the native DV is very close to what I can do with the Vertex2, but that only applies to DV content. I haven’t found the built in modes as much to my liking, so by using the Vertex2 and forcing everything to LLDV, I get a much better experience across all content. This is one reason I use a Roku Ultra, as it allows me to force always on HDR, which the Shield cannot yet do. But again, the most recent Shield can support native DV, so with the latest firmware, you can enjoy a lot of good content on Netflix. If you have DV titles on Plex, they would work too.


----------



## Grazed

JereyWolf said:


> Whatever the real input lag value is, I'm happy with it. It feels very responsive with mouse and keyboard.


I finally caved and grabbed me a T1. It got delivered in two days surprisingly and I've been messing around with it all day yesterday. I saw the comments about the input lag so I decided to plug in the Leo Bodnar Input Lag Tester I have on hand. The results are way better than my Optoma P2 which sits around 65ms in game mode. I did find out that your HDMI selection (1.4, 2.0, or 2.1) makes a noticeable difference in input lag as well.

Game Mode (HDMI 1.4)









Game Mode (HDMI 2.1)









Display Mode









Movie Mode


----------



## ba_crane

Grazed said:


> I finally caved and grabbed me a T1. It got delivered in two days surprisingly and I've been messing around with it all day yesterday. I saw the comments about the input lag so I decided to plug in the Leo Bodnar Input Lag Tester I have on hand. The results are way better than my Optoma P2 which sits around 65ms in game mode. I did find out that your HDMI selection (1.4, 2.0, or 2.1) makes a noticeable difference in input lag as well.
> 
> Game Mode (HDMI 1.4)
> View attachment 3261801
> 
> 
> Game Mode (HDMI 2.1)
> View attachment 3261802
> 
> 
> Display Mode
> View attachment 3261803
> 
> 
> Movie Mode
> View attachment 3261804


You ordered and had delivery in 2 days???
Where did you buy from?


----------



## Grazed

ba_crane said:


> You ordered and had delivery in 2 days???
> Where did you buy from?


Jason at WuPro on Alibaba. He said he has a warehouse in the US and sure enough I saw it was shipped out from PA.


----------



## ba_crane

Grazed said:


> Jason at WuPro on Alibaba. He said he has a warehouse in the US and sure enough I saw it was shipped out from PA.


No kidding. Is there a return policy or warranty through them?


----------



## humax

Meu Tech Mundo said:


> Hi friends, my name is Luiz from MEU TECH MUNDO youtube channel. My T1 arrived yesterday and wow! Fantastic projector.
> I have several UST like Xiaomi Mijia 4k, Fengmi 2000 ansi, Fengmi 4k cinema, Fengmi R1, R1 Nano among other frontals that I receive for demonstration on my Youtube channel.
> The T1 with Dolby Vision/Atmos was the most amazing thing my eyes have ever seen and I am so happy with it.
> 
> I use Mi stick 4k with Atmos/Vision(hdmi 2.1) connected to my Vizio 5.1.2 atmos soundbar and it's perfect. I also use Xbox one X with atmos/vision (but with hdmi in 2.0 because in 2.1 it's a problem) and I also use it with the PS5 in 2.1. Perfect.
> 
> The only problem I've found so far is that when I turn off the device using the on and off button or the remote control, it turns off the image but apparently it keeps the fan on and even if I try to turn it on again it doesn't turn on. Then I have to unplug the power outlet and plug it back in. Does anyone know what can it be?
> Thank you very much!
> Soon video on my channel.
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/meutechmundo



Hello, dear friend and welcome to the T1 thread. I seem to remember you interviewed the Fengmi manager in one of your videos, where he mentioned the international version will also have 3D besides android 11. Any further info on the global T1 version? TIA!


----------



## Grazed

ba_crane said:


> No kidding. Is there a return policy or warranty through them?


Yea a 1 year warranty with free shipping. Seems short but Optoma only does a 2 year warranty for the P2 so not a huge change for me personally. I did hear there are some T1 suppliers who offer 3 years though.


----------



## humax

Обзор УКФ лазерного проектора Formovie Fengmi T1. Распаковка, характеристики, русификация, картинка. - YouTube 

‎Overview of the UST laser projector Formovie Fengmi T1. Unboxing, characteristics, picture.‎

You will need auto-translate.


----------



## Ricoflashback

humax said:


> Обзор УКФ лазерного проектора Formovie Fengmi T1. Распаковка, характеристики, русификация, картинка. - YouTube
> 
> ‎Overview of the UST laser projector Formovie Fengmi T1. Unboxing, characteristics, picture.‎
> 
> You will need auto-translate.


Great find, humax! And one of the better demo's I've seen where they step through the menus. Geez, I can't believe how good the colors and black levels are. Just astounding. I'm less that two months away (hopefully) in getting my hands on one of these babies. We're moving and doing a ton of things before we finally relocate. But this is priority one once a contract is closed on our place.


----------



## Brajesh

Looks like this guy has a custom Android TV launcher installed?


----------



## ba_crane

Any ideas on how the T1 would look in a white 1.1 gain screen in fully light controlled room. I’m assuming help colors pop but wondering if I’ll lose the contrast snd deep blacks


----------



## humax

ba_crane said:


> Any ideas on how the T1 would look in a white 1.1 gain screen in fully light controlled room. I’m assuming help colors pop but wondering if I’ll lose the contrast and deep blacks



Check out this video: 120" The Premiere LSP7T 4K Smart Laser Projector| #SwastikProjectionScreen - YouTube


----------



## ba_crane

humax said:


> Check out this video: 120" The Premiere LSP7T 4K Smart Laser Projector| #SwastikProjectionScreen - YouTube


Hmm well if that’s the case then I won’t be able to go with a UST. I need a AT screen and only reasonably priced one is through Silver Ticket and it’s 1.1 gain white screen.


----------



## m0j0

ba_crane said:


> Any ideas on how the T1 would look in a white 1.1 gain screen in fully light controlled room. I’m assuming help colors pop but wondering if I’ll lose the contrast snd deep blacks


When you say fully light controlled, do you also mean you plan to have the lights off when watching the T1? If so, then there wouldn't be any drawbacks to using a 1.0 or 1.1 gain screen.


----------



## ba_crane

m0j0 said:


> When you say fully light controlled, do you also mean you plan to have the lights off when watching the T1? If so, then there wouldn't be any drawbacks to using a 1.0 or 1.1 gain screen.


Correct. No lights in room on. Ceiling has black velvet. Side walls have black velvet curtains. Have black rug over carpet.

my concern from that video is that the white screen looked awful compared to the Pet crystal. Is that only because of room lighting or simply the UST light reflecting off the white material? I only watch in blacked out room,but if I lose image quality/contract/color vibrancy from going with 1.1 screen over the UST crystal screen then I’m extremely hesitant to move that direction.


----------



## m0j0

ba_crane said:


> Correct. No lights in room on. Ceiling has black velvet. Side walls have black velvet curtains. Have black rug over carpet.
> 
> my concern from that video is that the white screen looked awful compared to the Pet crystal. Is that only because of room lighting or simply the UST light reflecting off the white material? I only watch in blacked out room,but if I lose image quality/contract/color vibrancy from going with 1.1 screen over the UST crystal screen then I’m extremely hesitant to move that direction.


Yeah, that's just because of ambient light washing out the image. If you compared the two at night in a pitch dark room, the picture on the white side would look much better. I'm sure there are some other youtube videos out there that can demonstrate that. I believe there was a vividstorm review somewhere that compared night time shots of a regular matte white 1.0 and the vividstorm ALR and the white screen did great at night.


----------



## Ricoflashback

ba_crane said:


> Correct. No lights in room on. Ceiling has black velvet. Side walls have black velvet curtains. Have black rug over carpet.
> 
> my concern from that video is that the white screen looked awful compared to the Pet crystal. Is that only because of room lighting or simply the UST light reflecting off the white material? I only watch in blacked out room,but if I lose image quality/contract/color vibrancy from going with 1.1 screen over the UST crystal screen then I’m extremely hesitant to move that direction.


I’m just not sure about an AT screen with a UST projector. You need a good viewing distance away with an AT screen to begin with and the angle of refraction with a UST projector is too steep. There could be all kinds of artifacts with that setup. Maybe someone who has tried it with any UST projector can chime in.


----------



## m0j0

Actually, this guy was reviewing the vividstorm at night in a dark room and briefly showed a shot a little after 9 minutes where it is just projecting on the wall and it looked just fine...


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> I’m just not sure about an AT screen with a UST projector. You need a good viewing distance away with an AT screen to begin with and the angle of refraction with a UST projector is too steep. There could be all kinds of artifacts with that setup. Maybe someone who has tried it with any UST projector can chime in.


Yeah, I agree. You need to find someone who has tried this with an AT screen in a dark room and see what their experience was.


----------



## humax

ba_crane said:


> I only watch in blacked out room,but if I lose image quality/contract/color vibrancy from going with 1.1 screen over the UST crystal screen then I’m extremely hesitant to move that direction.



1.1 gain AT screen will work, but the T1 is a bright projector and you will get a slightly elevated black floor no matter what. If you go more than 120", it is worth the trade. However, 0.6 ALR is still the optimum choice for UST projection up to 120". You cannot have it all.


----------



## m0j0

Another option might be the vividstorm projector that rises up from below. I believe there is a perforated AT section of black fabric at the bottom. Not sure if they have larger than 120" though.


----------



## ba_crane

It’s not about going larger than 120”, it’s about keeping 120” and being able to fit my speakers and sub behind the screen. I keep looking for ways to make my room work but I just keep hitting a snag somewhere.


----------



## m0j0

So, back to this dang blue in the camera stuff. Here's an example of a picture where I get blue in the picture that isn't really there on screen.










If I go in to Photoshop, I can create a layer that filters down the blue, and it ends up looking more like this:


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> So, back to this dang blue in the camera stuff. Here's an example of a picture where I get blue in the picture that isn't really there on screen.
> 
> View attachment 3261868
> 
> 
> If I go in to Photoshop, I can create a layer that filters down the blue, and it ends up looking more like this:
> 
> View attachment 3261872


Still too sharp of a picture with vivid colors and a great black floor. Can you Photoshop some gas and mist in there along with a touch of haze and dull down those colors for me? Then you can rival the Hisense projectors. Just kidding, folks. Enjoy whatever PJ you have.


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> Still too sharp of a picture with vivid colors and a great black floor. Can you Photoshop some gas and mist in there along with a touch of haze and dull down those colors for me? Then you can rival the Hisense projectors. Just kidding, folks. Enjoy whatever PJ you have.


I'll keep working on it...


----------



## Malaveae

JereyWolf said:


> I've notice an odd phenomenon on my T1. From the lower left corner there's a constant stream of ripples that appear to emanate and then disappear about 1/8 of the way across the screen. It's very obvious when there is a light, solid color on screen. I can see if from my seat 16 feet away, but it has been extremely tough to capture on camera. It looks similar to ripples on the surface of water. I uploaded a video to youtube but the compression killed the visibility of the ripples, so it's not even worth sharing.
> 
> Has anyone else seen something like this?
> 
> The photo barely shows the waves, but it's the best I could get.
> View attachment 3261713


Yes I have seen it. And is most probably the hot air exhaust from the left side thats heats the air above and gives this typical heat distortion when hitting the laser beam. Try to allow air flow as per the manual, given 50 cm separation in both sides.


----------



## JereyWolf

Grazed said:


> I finally caved and grabbed me a T1. It got delivered in two days surprisingly and I've been messing around with it all day yesterday. I saw the comments about the input lag so I decided to plug in the Leo Bodnar Input Lag Tester I have on hand. The results are way better than my Optoma P2 which sits around 65ms in game mode. I did find out that your HDMI selection (1.4, 2.0, or 2.1) makes a noticeable difference in input lag as well.
> 
> Game Mode (HDMI 1.4)
> View attachment 3261801
> 
> 
> Game Mode (HDMI 2.1)
> View attachment 3261802
> 
> 
> Display Mode
> View attachment 3261803
> 
> 
> Movie Mode
> View attachment 3261804


Awesome, Thanks so much for sharing!
I'll be interested to hear if the new firmware has any impact on input lag in game mode.

Did you measure any difference between HDMI 2.0 and 2.1 while in game mode?


----------



## Brajesh

ba_crane said:


> Any ideas on how the T1 would look in a white 1.1 gain screen in fully light controlled room. I’m assuming help colors pop but wondering if I’ll lose the contrast snd deep blacks


I used my T1 on a 142" 1.1 white Silver Ticket in a fully light-controlled room and PQ was great. Corner (especially top left & right) focus uniformity (or slight lack of) definitely got more pronounced. But backing away 4-5ft or more, it isn't noticeable. I sit about 14ft from the screen.

@m0j0, thanks for sharing sample of what you're actually seeing vs. directly off iPhone. Weird how it's adding color tones not seen w/naked eyes.


----------



## Aztar35

Ricoflashback said:


> I’m just not sure about an AT screen with a UST projector. You need a good viewing distance away with an AT screen to begin with and the angle of refraction with a UST projector is too steep. There could be all kinds of artifacts with that setup. Maybe someone who has tried it with any UST projector can chime in.


I would never use an acoustically transparent/AT screens because in my mind I can't help but wonder if it's really hurting more than helping with both audio and the video --the audio, by being somewhat of a muzzle, however slight, over the high frequencies --the image, by being perforated cutting out pixels thus impacting sharpness and brightness.

For me, I would much rather use in-walls with angular drivers or make other adjustments to the soundstage.


----------



## Aztar35

m0j0 said:


> So, back to this dang blue in the camera stuff. Here's an example of a picture where I get blue in the picture that isn't really there on screen.
> 
> View attachment 3261868
> 
> 
> If I go in to Photoshop, I can create a layer that filters down the blue, and it ends up looking more like this:
> 
> View attachment 3261872



The sharpness looks incredible.


----------



## Aztar35

Brajesh said:


> I used my T1 on a 142" 1.1 white Silver Ticket in a fully light-controlled room and PQ was great. Corner (especially top left & right) focus uniformity (or slight lack of) definitely get more pronounced. But backing away 4-5ft or more, it isn't noticeable. I sit about 14ft from the screen.
> 
> @m0j0, thanks for sharing sample of what you're actually seeing vs. directly off iPhone. Weird how it's adding color tones not seen w/naked eyes.


Also, the wider color, non-ALPD tri laser USTs add a magenta cast to the image.


----------



## aerodynamics

JereyWolf said:


> It's there regardless of input source. It's visible on the projectors built in OS. It looks like there's something on the inside of my lens. I can't wipe it off from the outside.
> 
> View attachment 3261733


Is there a protective film on the lens that hasn’t been removed?


----------



## zaselim

guys, i am seeing that the middle part of the screen is normal but left and right parts (1/4 from the left and 1/4 from the right, from top to bottom) of the screen has a slight blue tint and is more noticeable on the left. Has anyone else encountered it? Only prominent on all white background.


----------



## rooterha

ba_crane said:


> It’s not about going larger than 120”, it’s about keeping 120” and being able to fit my speakers and sub behind the screen. I keep looking for ways to make my room work but I just keep hitting a snag somewhere.


Well vividstorm s pro p would work then. I have the 110" with the center behind the perforated part at the bottom


----------



## JereyWolf

Malaveae said:


> Yes I have seen it. And is most probably the hot air exhaust from the left side thats heats the air above and gives this typical heat distortion when hitting the laser beam. Try to allow air flow as per the manual, given 50 cm separation in both sides.


You're absolutely correct that it was heat from the exhaust. I confirmed it by seeing that it did not happen right at start up before the projector had a chance to heat up and when it finally did heat up, I blocked where the exhaust would be coming up into the light path with some cardboard and the effect went away immediately. 

I did have my turntable roughly 20% overlapping the vents about 4" (~10cm) away from the projector. I created more space between the two and that seems to have resolved the issue. Thank you for posting!


----------



## Meu Tech Mundo

humax said:


> Hello, dear friend and welcome to the T1 thread. I seem to remember you interviewed the Fengmi manager in one of your videos, where he mentioned the international version will also have 3D besides android 11. Any further info on the global T1 version? TIA!


Hi friend, thank you! The Fengmi manager dont confirm this info about 3d on T1 global, he say: Maybe. About android 11, yes confirmed on Global Version


----------



## 3sprit

rooterha said:


> Well vividstorm s pro p would work then. I have the 110" with the center behind the perforated part at the bottom


Does it work well?


----------



## gen_x

Hey is anyone using a 3d metal screen with the T1? Would be great to see a pic.


----------



## Grazed

JereyWolf said:


> Awesome, Thanks so much for sharing!
> I'll be interested to hear if the new firmware has any impact on input lag in game mode.
> 
> Did you measure any difference between HDMI 2.0 and 2.1 while in game mode?


No difference between those two.


----------



## rjyap

zaselim said:


> I dont about the afterburner that much since i dont use it. But yeah i could be that but still the input response looks great for offline gaming.
> Are you using custom settings with T1, if you do then can you tell me your custom temp RGB and tone setting?
> On default it shows slight green tint in the blue colored things. Looks fine on pre existing presets likr display or game mode.


Yes I'm using custom RGB but my unit firmware still on v1.4. Still waiting for ver 2.0 update before I try to calibrate the projector. Currently just eyeball the color temp and use MadVR tone mapping. Blue does come a bit strong in certain scene but still watchable.


----------



## rjyap

ba_crane said:


> Hmm well if that’s the case then I won’t be able to go with a UST. I need a AT screen and only reasonably priced one is through Silver Ticket and it’s 1.1 gain white screen.


That video is not a good representation if you have a fully light control room. Get a AT woven screen. I would recommend XYScreen SoundMax 4K. Gain is around 0.8 or SoundMax 8K around 0.7 gain). I would avoid any screen that is reflective surface to minimize laser speckle.

Haven't install my AT screen (SoundMax 8K) but currently using Carada 1.3 matte white screen I don't have any problem as my room is as dark as bat cave.


----------



## m0j0

zaselim said:


> guys, i am seeing that the middle part of the screen is normal but left and right parts (1/4 from the left and 1/4 from the right, from top to bottom) of the screen has a slight blue tint and is more noticeable on the left. Has anyone else encountered it? Only prominent on all white background.


Get a compressed can of air and blow the glass with it. It might be some sort of dust or something.


----------



## Grazed

zaselim said:


> guys, i am seeing that the middle part of the screen is normal but left and right parts (1/4 from the left and 1/4 from the right, from top to bottom) of the screen has a slight blue tint and is more noticeable on the left. Has anyone else encountered it? Only prominent on all white background.


I had a blue mark on mine as well (bottom middle) but I wiped the glass with the lint cloth that came in the box and that got rid of it.


----------



## zaselim

Grazed said:


> I had a blue mark on mine as well (bottom middle) but I wiped the glass with the lint cloth that came in the box and that got rid of it.


Mine's not a mark its the color tint slightly to the blue side from top to bottom like its a layer. I did the same thing to check if it helps but still the same. Could it be because of (borderless left side of the screen is at the corner of the wall and door on the left side wall at the very same corner with 2 or 3 inches gap) light reflecting back from the door back to the screen?


----------



## ProFragger

Grazed said:


> Yea a 1 year warranty with free shipping. Seems short but Optoma only does a 2 year warranty for the P2 so not a huge change for me personally. I did hear there are some T1 suppliers who offer 3 years though.


Thanks for sharing! Did you have to pay a lot more extra going with this seller and platform vs. the best, bottom line deals that people find through other Chinese e-commerce sites? Thank you.


----------



## mncc

JereyWolf said:


> Yes there are 4 threaded mounting holes on the bottom.
> 
> View attachment 3261166


Thank you sir!


----------



## humax

Meu Tech Mundo said:


> Hi friend, thank you! The Fengmi manager dont confirm this info about 3d on T1 global, he say: Maybe. About android 11, yes confirmed on Global Version



Thank you for your answer! Can you also confirm whether the following are true or not?


"UPDATE THE INFORMATION I HAVE:

It seems that in addition to the traditional color we will also have White, Yellow, Blue and Red (To integrate with the decoration)
It will be the first laser TV with ANDROID 11.
My price guess for the first 3 months is $2890
Formovie is ambitious!"


----------



## okvcos

m0j0 said:


> I'll keep working on it...


Hello Thanks for your advice , Out of curiosity, you can give a test with "Black Panther , Marvel ", especially with the initial dark scenes. I find them very dark, even with your latest settings


----------



## wesleyrbk

Anyone successfully added their T1 to the Harmony Hub? Adding it manually by pressing the on/off button near the hub itself it doesn't get recognized.


----------



## m0j0

okvcos said:


> Hello Thanks for your advice , Out of curiosity, you can give a test with "Black Panther , Marvel ", especially with the initial dark scenes. I find them very dark, even with your latest settings


Not sure if/when I will get around to testing with that movie. I did recently test with Dune though (native DV content on Z9X with Vertex2) and it had some challenging dark and light scenes. I ended up using Brightness 47 and Contrast 85.

Also, I seem to recall from some reviews of that movie (Black Panther) that the initial dark scenes were done poorly and not inline with the rest of the movie black levels, so it could just be a situation where the content is mastered poorly. I believe it might have been Ralph Potts review no that I think about it.


----------



## m0j0

wesleyrbk said:


> Anyone successfully added their T1 to the Harmony Hub? Adding it manually by pressing the on/off button near the hub itself it doesn't get recognized.


Yes and no. I was able to set it up as a Mac and use the remote to control it (had to pair the bluetooth from the projector when prompted), and also to have it power down automatically when I press the off button on the harmony hub remote. However, it won't turn the T1 on.


----------



## Niclas Lagerström

I had the 2.0 update pushed to me after having contact with formovie but more I can't find out how to change between hdmi 1.4 to 2.1? And has anyone been able to have it to start at hdmi port 1? In the settings I have set it to go directly to HDMI 1 but when I start it says can't change to that so each time I have to go to the settings and choose hdmi 1 (not that WAF). I have a Nvidia shield pro that is connected to my Onkyo receiver and then to the T1. Great projector otherwise


----------



## okvcos

m0j0 said:


> Not sure if/when I will get around to testing with that movie. I did recently test with Dune though (native DV content on Z9X with Vertex2) and it had some challenging dark and light scenes. I ended up using Brightness 47 and Contrast 85.
> 
> Also, I seem to recall from some reviews of that movie that the initial dark scenes were done poorly and not inline with the rest of the movie black levels, so it could just be a situation where the content is mastered poorly.


In fact it is better in 1080p -> LLDV


----------



## m0j0

okvcos said:


> In fact it is better in 1080p -> LLDV


Interesting, thanks for sharing.


----------



## Dr. Feelgood

Anyone with second thoughts? Interested in buying a T1 in Europe.
Anyone selling theirs or have a shop where I could buy it for a reasonable price here in Europe?
thanks


----------



## Grazed

ProFragger said:


> Thanks for sharing! Did you have to pay a lot more extra going with this seller and platform vs. the best, bottom line deals that people find through other Chinese e-commerce sites? Thank you.


Not really, fully shipped to me the prices only varied around $100-150 USD between other suppliers. I went WuPro since they had more reviews and some people on here ordered from them as well. Had he led with him having a US warehouse and it would get to me in less than two days I would have ordered instantly lol.


----------



## chrisdu46

Dr Feelgood said:


> Quelqu'un a-t-il des doutes ? Intéressé par l'achat d'un T1 en Europe.
> Quelqu'un vend le sien ou a un magasin où je pourrais l'acheter à un prix raisonnable ici en Europe ?
> Merci
> [/CITATION]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fengmi Formovie T1 Cinema Laser Projector 2800 ANSI Lumens HDR10 Home
> 
> 
> Fengmi T1 is the latest laser projector using ALPD 4.0 tri-laser system. Ready stock for order now! 2800 ANSI lumens Bt.2020 color gamut Dolby Vision support HDR 10+ support Bowers & Wilkins sound 4k resolution 3 Year Standard Warranty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nothingbutlabel.com


----------



## chrisdu46

Dr Feelgood said:


> Quelqu'un at-il des doutes ? Intéressé par l'achat d'un T1 en Europe.
> Quelqu'un vend le sien ou un magasin où je pourrais acheter à un prix raisonnable ici en Europe ?
> Merci
> [/CITATION]
> https://www.banggood.com/fr/FENGMI-...FI-MEMC-Automatically-Eletric-Focus-Keystone- Correction-3+64GB-WIFI-FENG-OS-10_7Billion-Color-Display-Home-Cinema-p-1927846.html?cur_warehouse=HK&rmmds=CategoryComputersPop


----------



## Meu Tech Mundo

humax said:


> Obrigado pela sua resposta! Você também pode confirmar se o seguinte é verdadeiro ou não?
> 
> 
> "ATUALIZE AS INFORMAÇÕES QUE TENHO:
> 
> Parece que além da cor tradicional teremos também Branco, Amarelo, Azul e Vermelho (Para integrar na decoração)
> Será a primeira TV a laser com ANDROID 11.
> Minha estimativa de preço para os primeiros 3 meses é de $ 2890
> Formovie é ambicioso!"
> [/CITAR]
> UMA Androyd 11 confirmed but about the colours I dont know if this information procceed


----------



## Grazed

Niclas Lagerström said:


> I had the 2.0 update pushed to me after having contact with formovie but more I can't find out how to change between hdmi 1.4 to 2.1? And has anyone been able to have it to start at hdmi port 1? In the settings I have set it to go directly to HDMI 1 but when I start it says can't change to that so each time I have to go to the settings and choose hdmi 1 (not that WAF). I have a Nvidia shield pro that is connected to my Onkyo receiver and then to the T1. Great projector otherwise


To change between HDMI 1.4 and 2.1 you have to go into your HDMI 1 Input and change it from the submenu settings once you are in that input. It doesn't show up on the home screen settings.


----------



## MQA

Dr. Feelgood said:


> Anyone with second thoughts? Interested in buying a T1 in Europe.
> Anyone selling theirs or have a shop where I could buy it for a reasonable price here in Europe?
> thanks


I bought mine at NothingButLabel, they have an EU Warehouse, and propose a better price than Banggood and also a faster devilery.


----------



## Ricoflashback

MQA said:


> I bought mine at NothingButLabel, they have an EU Warehouse, and propose a better price than Banggood and also a faster devilery.


I like NothingButLabel. For Europe - - I'm sure it's a faster delivery. But not for the United States.


----------



## Ricoflashback

humax said:


> Thank you for your answer! Can you also confirm whether the following are true or not?
> 
> 
> "UPDATE THE INFORMATION I HAVE:
> 
> It seems that in addition to the traditional color we will also have White, Yellow, Blue and Red (To integrate with the decoration)
> It will be the first laser TV with ANDROID 11.
> My price guess for the first 3 months is $2890
> Formovie is ambitious!"


Instead of ridiculous color options, it would have been nice to develop a CMS and some other fixes. I suppose if you are opening a new disco the new colors would appeal. As far as I'm concerned, it's a gimmick and it takes away from what Fengmi is doing with their T1 with their excellent black levels and sharpness. I see color options like this and I wonder if the company is a serious projector manufacturer. At least that's my take.


----------



## m0j0

I think with UST's and how they stand out in the living room, that having some additional color options is smart, for those that care about their decor. At least black and white would be good to give folks some options.


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> I think with UST's and how they stand out in the living room, that having some additional color options is smart, for those that care about their decor. At least black and white would be good to give folks some options.


Right. How many living rooms would a plastic looking, red eyesore look good in? Not trying to be negative but the color focus by Fengmi is really way off base, IMHO. I suppose you could match it with a green or yellow cabinet. Kinda like a "Yellow Submarine" living room. To me, anything that distracts from the picture is an eyesore and not wanted/needed.


----------



## rooterha

Ricoflashback said:


> Right. How many living rooms would a plastic looking, red eyesore look good in? Not trying to be negative but the color focus by Fengmi is really way off base, IMHO. I suppose you could match it with a green or yellow cabinet. Kinda like a "Yellow Submarine" living room. To me, anything that distracts from the picture is an eyesore and not wanted/needed.


Agreed - if you want color have a black and white option. Anything beyond that is silly.


----------



## Ricoflashback

rooterha said:


> Agreed - if you want color have a black and white option. Anything beyond that is silly.


I suppose a white option can go better with a white table and white color scheme but that just detracts from the picture quality, IMHO. It looks nice in the advertisements with a white marble, UST cabinet sliding in and out on a sunlit day with the windows open and an incredible picture on the screen. In reality, you can have a multipurpose room with white walls but the more white you have in the room, the more it detracts from picture quality - - even at night.


----------



## rooterha

Ricoflashback said:


> I suppose a white option can go better with a white table and white color scheme but that just detracts from the picture quality, IMHO. It looks nice in the advertisements with a white marble, UST cabinet sliding in and out on a sunlit day with the windows open and an incredible picture on the screen. In reality, you can have a multipurpose room with white walls but the more white you have in the room, the more it detracts from picture quality - - even at night.


I agree - just saying if you have to have a non black option just have 1 other neutral. Red / green / yellow / pink whatever is just silly.


----------



## zoomx2

They know this T1 or any models in future can replace a traditional TV. More younger age consumers like the idea of laser TV. Different colour also suits their lifestyle as well.


----------



## sleeper37

I've been seeing some mentions of an International version. How is it different than the current model? Is that an upgrade to the system overall? Or is it just different software?


----------



## xrayg1971

what's the best option to buy this in the U.S .. ive seen nothing but label .. Alibabba , bangood etc .. just looking for the best price and fastest shipping to NY thanks all


----------



## jorgemurillo2012

Ricoflashback said:


> I like NothingButLabel. For Europe - - I'm sure it's a faster delivery. But not for the United States.


I actually ordered from them and the person that helped ordered it they got a warehouse in CA so I ordered it from them


----------



## sleeper37

jorgemurillo2012 said:


> I actually ordered from them and the person that helped ordered it they got a warehouse in CA so I ordered it from them


I also ordered from Wupro, but he's out of units in CA warehouse. Has to come from China.


----------



## CabbageMan

I am looking at buying an XY Pet Crystal Screen. Does anyone have a recommendation on where to buy from? I bought my T1 from Jason at Wupro and was going to ask him but if anyone has any recommendations I would appreciate it. Other screen I was looking at would be the Akia CLR4 on amazon. Would the XY be a better choice than that?


----------



## chrisdu46

CabbageMan said:


> I am looking at buying an XY Pet Crystal Screen. Does anyone have a recommendation on where to buy from? I bought my T1 from Jason at Wupro and was going to ask him but if anyone has any recommendations I would appreciate it. Other screen I was looking at would be the Akia CLR4 on amazon. Would the XY be a better choice than that?


Don't forget about the Aeon Edge Free CLR screen. I have this 0.6 gain screen and it is really excellent


----------



## m0j0

CabbageMan said:


> I am looking at buying an XY Pet Crystal Screen. Does anyone have a recommendation on where to buy from? I bought my T1 from Jason at Wupro and was going to ask him but if anyone has any recommendations I would appreciate it. Other screen I was looking at would be the Akia CLR4 on amazon. Would the XY be a better choice than that?


You can email [email protected]. That's who I bought mine from. It took about 5 days to receive it.


----------



## jorgemurillo2012

chrisdu46 said:


> Don't forget about the Aeon Edge Free CLR screen. I have this 0.6 gain screen and it is really excellent


Link for purchase


----------



## CabbageMan

m0j0 said:


> You can email [email protected]. That's who I bought mine from. It took about 5 days to receive it.


Awesome thanks!


----------



## CabbageMan

chrisdu46 said:


> Don't forget about the Aeon Edge Free CLR screen. I have this 0.6 gain screen and it is really excellent


Is that Elite Screens? Those are a bit more than I want to spend.


----------



## gen_x

Hi everyone. Does the T1 have installation clearance requirements? For example in a ceiling setup an opening can be created between the trusses . With the right mount this could be a great low profile setup with some flexibility in adjustment. Any specs in the manual
for clearance? That's all I would need to determine the size of the opening and seriously considering this option.


----------



## m0j0

gen_x said:


> Hi everyone. Does the T1 have installation clearance requirements? For example in a ceiling setup an opening can be created between the trusses . With the right mount this could be a great low profile setup with some flexibility in adjustment. Any specs in the manual
> for clearance? That's all I would need to determine the size of the opening and seriously considering this option.


So, would you mount on the ceiling or was the plan to mount in some other way? You would need several inches of clearance on each side for venting if you aren’t planning to mount on the ceiling.


----------



## t333

hi guys
im installing my 120 inch xy screen, but still waiting on T1, how many inches up do i need to keep the screen 's lower frame ? also can i use my OG vava to mark the corners?


----------



## gen_x

m0j0 said:


> So, would you mount on the ceiling or was the plan to mount in some other way? You would need several inches of clearance on each side for venting if you aren’t planning to mount on the ceiling.





m0j0 said:


> So, would you mount on the ceiling or was the plan to mount in some other way? You would need several inches of clearance on each side for venting if you aren’t planning to mount on the ceiling.


Yes ceiling mount but recessed and perhaps when installed would be flush with the rest of the ceiling or even a few inches in. I will wait until I receive it to confirm where the venting is etc and see. Also test throw distance to see if it would fit.


----------



## Brajesh

sleeper37 said:


> I've been seeing some mentions of an International version. How is it different than the current model? Is that an upgrade to the system overall? Or is it just different software?


We don't know, but likely official Android TV and more expen$ive. Same (or similar) feature set.


----------



## Timothyyy

Hi everyone,
My T1 just arrived. Connect to my Xbox series x, only shows 480p, change from hdmi 2 to hdmi 2.1 not working. Change the setting in Xbox only shows support to 1440p. Tried different cable not working. If anyone has any solutions much appreciate.


----------



## zoomx2

How old are those cables? You sure support 2.0 ?


----------



## Timothyyy

Yes one hdmi 2.1 cable and one hdmi 2.0 cable. Works great with my old 4k tv.


----------



## zoomx2

Try unplug the cable and plug in again. Sometimes it doesn’t detect the signal.


----------



## driege

Timothyyy said:


> Hi everyone,
> My T1 just arrived. Connect to my Xbox series x, only shows 480p, change from hdmi 2 to hdmi 2.1 not working. Change the setting in Xbox only shows support to 1440p. Tried different cable not working. If anyone has any solutions much appreciate.


I had similar issues with my xbox series X and T1. Only way I was able to get 4K was to use the EDID emulator I bought, but that prevents HDR from working. Still looks fantastic though.

A month ago before I got the series X, I had the same problem with the Xbox One. I forget what I did but after lots of troubleshooting I got it to work (temporarily). Then next time I used it, it failed to detect 4K capability and the problem repeated.

I think this is related to the known EDID issues with the T1. Xboxes seem especially sensitive to that


----------



## eezrider

driege said:


> I had similar issues with my xbox series X and T1. Only way I was able to get 4K was to use the EDID emulator I bought, but that prevents HDR from working. Still looks fantastic though.
> 
> A month ago before I got the series X, I had the same problem with the Xbox One. I forget what I did but after lots of troubleshooting I got it to work (temporarily). Then next time I used it, it failed to detect 4K capability and the problem repeated.
> 
> I think this is related to the known EDID issues with the T1. Xboxes seem especially sensitive to that


I have it working with my XBox One X and will try with a Series X later this week. The problem is that the T1 seems to frequently drop back to HDMI 1.4 on rebooting even if it shows that it is set to 2.0 or 2.1. I and several others have reported this. The fix is to switch the HDMI "play setting" on the projector once connected. Just switch to any other setting and then back to HDMI 2.0 or 2.1. You will lose the image momentarily as the XBox resyncs and hopefully you'll then have 4K and DV support. Unfortunately, this has not yet been fixed in the 2.0 firmware. If this is the problem, then please report it to Fengmi ([email protected]). The more people report this issue the more likely we'll see a fix soon.

Interestingly, with my XBox One it syncs at 1080p in HDMI 1.4 and not 480p. So, what you're seeing may be something else.


----------



## zaselim

Hey guys, this is the issue i am having i mentioned yesterday. The left side and right side of the screen has a blue tint, they yellow horizonal lines are because of the camera and not on the screen.
Is it hardware releated or the software/firmware.
I am having it since first boot.
The seller told me that he asked the company, they said it is a software issue and some units are having this problem as well and they are checking on it as well.


----------



## rjyap

zaselim said:


> Hey guys, this is the issue i am having i mentioned yesterday. The left side and right side of the screen has a blue tint, they yellow horizonal lines are because of the camera and not on the screen.
> Is it hardware releated or the software/firmware.
> I am having it since first boot.
> The seller told me that he asked the company, they said it is a software issue and some units are having this problem as well and they are checking on it as well.


No such issue on my unit. Try using camera lens cleaning pen and use the brush to clean any dust on the lens. Just watch Death on the Nile in 4K and it's awesome on T1. Great color and very sharp PQ. You can see all the details and texture. Good HDR effect and great shadow details too.


----------



## m0j0

Made some great progress last night in calibrating my T1 and getting shadow details fully unlocked. Stay tuned for more details... But in the meantime, check out this pic!


----------



## rjyap

m0j0 said:


> Made some great progress last night in calibrating my T1 and getting shadow details fully unlocked. Stay tuned for more details... But in the meantime, check out this pic!


Great improvement. Skin tone looks natural and great shadow details. That photo represent T1 capability to show shadow details without crushing black. Most of the photo that crush black is either brightness is not adjusted properly or incorrect camera settings. So far I don't see any problem with T1 showing dark details. Anyway, still waiting for v2...


----------



## zaselim

rjyap said:


> No such issue on my unit. Try using camera lens cleaning pen and use the brush to clean any dust on the lens. Just watch Death on the Nile in 4K and it's awesome on T1. Great color and very sharp PQ. You can see all the details and texture. Good HDR effect and great shadow details too.


I did clean it but didnt change anything. I have just been notified that some units have this problem and is software related and they are working on it and they asked me to wait a bit and will send me the update fix as soon as they make it.
I dont see it in actual content, and in person the tint is lighter than in the photo. I can live with it while waiting for the fix as long as its not a hardware related issue.
So far i have seen spiderman no way home, moon knight ep1 and a couple or other episodes from different shows. Checked certain scenes from man of steel, ZS justice league, aquaman, Avengers end game, CA Cival war and played resident evil 2, 8 and Horizon zero dawn and I was blown away by the picture quality and colors specially blacks and shadow details. And i didnt notice the tint on any of them, i only see it on fully white background.


----------



## xrayg1971

so i have a general question .. i have been really wanting a ust for a while and now with RGB laser i think im in .. the price point for me looks great ...what worries me is lack of support and service if something goes wrong here in the US.. This would replace my LR TV which crapped out hence why im here ... (not too bright LR even during the day) 
my choices for this price are midrange 85 inch q-led or this unit and a 100 inch ALR. I watch mostly Cable and streaming services (not a gamer) and wat something that will still be good 5 years from now. 
(i originally purchased the bomaker 4k polaris unit and never showed up so now im here looking at the t1) 

appreciate your guys thoughts .. ready to pull the trigger.


----------



## zaselim

Guys what is the support email for T1, the one you guys used to sent them to address the red tint issue. I am thinking of sending them the email directly myself.


----------



## m0j0

zaselim said:


> Guys what is the support email for T1, the one you guys used to sent them to address the red tint issue. I am thinking of sending them the email directly myself.


[email protected]


----------



## zaselim

m0j0 said:


> [email protected]


Thanks.


----------



## xrayg1971

zaselim said:


> Guys what is the support email for T1, the one you guys used to sent them to address the red tint issue. I am thinking of sending them the email directly myself.


_support_@formovie.com


----------



## rooterha

m0j0 said:


> Made some great progress last night in calibrating my T1 and getting shadow details fully unlocked. Stay tuned for more details... But in the meantime, check out this pic!
> 
> View attachment 3262414


That looks amazing 

Now spill the secret sauce!!


----------



## m0j0

Ok, last night I broke out the Spears and Munsil UHD Benchmark disc and a blue filter I had from an old Disney WOW calibration disc. I set out to try and get the shadow detail better as I was watching Dune the other night and there were some dark scenes that I just couldn't make out. So, long story short, I was able to calibrate for REC 709, HDR and then again for D65.BT2020 using the Vertex2 (LLDV). This was done in a dark room at night so as to get the best possible black levels and shadow detail and I was using the disc in my Sony X800M2 4k blu ray player. Once complete, I found the new calibrated setting I am using with the Vertex2, Roku Ultra and Zidoo Z9X to work well across all the movies and shows I watched/tested with last night, with one exception, which is childrens 1080p content, which I found a different setting to look much better (I will call that out in the post below). Otherwise, it didn't matter if it was HDR or DV, on the Roku or on the Z9X, the calibrated settings seemed to work great! The shadow detail is freaking unbelievable! I would say it's on par with my Sony 4k projector now in terms of the details I can see in dark scenes, which is really saying something! I did also make a change to the Vertex2 settings, and I will also point that out in the details.


----------



## rooterha

Awesome! Excited to see.


----------



## m0j0

Edit: Added a reduced color calibration for LLDV using brightness of View Mode to help get better color balance and accuracy (calibration is the last in the list of calibrations dated 4/14). Also added a few of the other Vertex2 tabs, in addition to the main ones (HDR and DV tabs).

Ok, here goes. All calibration done using Color Warm.
Note: Brightness Mode for Rec 709 and HDR calibration was done using Brightness Mode: Office
Note2: Calibration for LLDV was done using Brightness Mode: Night Mode (found this to have better color accuracy and shadow detail at night)

Rec 709 calibration first:









HDR calibration 2nd:









LLDV calibration 3rd (this is the one I am using with the Vertex2):









Here's another LLDV calibration, but this one is with lights on at night (and this one uses Brightness Mode: Office Mode):









And here's an LLDV calibration using brightness of View Mode with Color Warm (I think the skin tones looked a bit warmer with this one and it was a nice compromise in terms of night time brightness to get good pop and decent black levels overall). This one has the best black levels at night but sacrifices some shadow details:









(Edited custom colors)
Here's another LLDV calibration using brightness of View Mode, but with custom Color and slightly bumped up contast (+1) and decreased tone (-1). This one gives good skin tones and excellent shadow details, but the blacks are not quite as deep as the View Mode above with Color warm. Still, I like this one a lot as I really enjoy being able to see night time scenes clearly with full shadow detail, and this one has great skin tones and overall very accurate looking colors.
Color Custom:
Red: 923
Green: 1107
Blue: 968









Here's my most recent effort at calibrating LLDV using Night Mode with Custom Color. This one came out pretty great if I do say so myself. The skin tones and overall color accuracy are really good and the black levels as well (in a dark room).

Brightness: Night Mode
Custom Color:
Red: 903
Green: 1024
Blue: 944











For children's content, be it 1080p or DV, I found that a really high contrast and low brightness setting works best (Abby Hatcher, True and the Rainbow Kingdom, etc.). Actually, it's spectacular when you watch it with these settings!

This is with my LLDV Vertex2 setup using the Roku Ultra:

Brightness: Night Mode
Custom Color:
Red: 903
Green: 1024
Blue: 944










And here's a daytime ambient light calibration (LLDV/Vertex2):
Brightness Mode: View
Custom Color:
Red: 903
Green: 1024
Blue: 944









Here's my latest calibration (dated 4/14) that lowers down the brightness of the red, green and blue lasers (using View mode):

Brightness Mode: View
Custom Color:
Red: 903
Green: 952
Blue: 872












Here are the Vertex2 settings (note I changed MIN luminance down to .0005 on the DV tab and boosted up Max luminance to 130):
























































Here's my T1 settings:




























Focus set by going all the way left (click and hold for 10-15 seconds), then 3 clicks to the right



















Roku Ultra settings (to force always on DV, which I use with my Vertex2):






































My Zidoo Z9X media player settings (set to force LLDV) (and yes, you can see my camera really oversaturates blue!)


----------



## rooterha

So global dimming not and 10/12b disabled? Is that right? or those the same as before?


----------



## m0j0

rooterha said:


> So global dimming not and 10/12b disabled? Is that right? or those the same as before?


I probably had those at different values, but don't think that those settings are being used, so I would just go ahead and match up what I have now just to be on the safe side.


----------



## zaselim

Just started the last of us part 2, i just can't stop smiling. The game looks amazing on the T1.


----------



## m0j0

A few new pics after calibration:


----------



## donw

Grazed said:


> Yea a 1 year warranty with free shipping. Seems short but Optoma only does a 2 year warranty for the P2 so not a huge change for me personally. I did hear there are some T1 suppliers who offer 3 years though.


So here is the warranty deal straight from Chris Chen (Alibaba vendor). All T1 have 3 year warranty, but shipping is only covered for the first year. And for the first year you deal with the vendor for any warranty work. Chris reimbursed me $30 it cost to send my unit to her US contact. My replacement is being held up in Hong Kong due to the recent pandemic break out. I do have a DHL tracking number, though.


----------



## xrayg1971

m0j0 said:


> I probably had those at different values, but don't think that those settings are being used, so I would just go ahead and match up what I have now just to be on the safe side.


so if one is not using lldv or vertex and just using a 4k steaming box is there a general custom setting you would recommend for majority of content ?


----------



## xrayg1971

donw said:


> So here is the warranty deal straight from Chris Chen (Alibaba vendor). All T1 have 3 year warranty, but shipping is only covered for the first year. And for the first year you deal with the vendor for any warranty work. Chris reimbursed me $30 it cost to send my unit to her US contact. My replacement is being held up in Hong Kong due to the recent pandemic break out. I do have a DHL tracking number, though.


Just bought from chris also .. she told me the same


----------



## m0j0

xrayg1971 said:


> so if one is not using lldv or vertex and just using a 4k steaming box is there a general custom setting you would recommend for majority of content ?


I provided screenshots showing calibrated 709 (SDR) and BT.2020 (HDR) so I would start with those, depending on what type of content you are watching. Honestly though, I would highly recommend you buy a Vertex2.


----------



## sleeper37

m0j0 said:


> I provided screenshots showing calibrated 709 (SDR) and BT.2020 (HDR) so I would start with those, depending on what type of content you are watching. Honestly though, I would highly recommend you buy a Vertex2.


I'm not entirely sure what the Vertex2 does, but does it modify the image before it's sent to the T1? In that case, the settings you provided may not be what we see without it?


----------



## m0j0

sleeper37 said:


> I'm not entirely sure what the Vertex2 does, but does it modify the image before it's sent to the T1? In that case, the settings you provided may not be what we see without it?


It uses an EDID trick to make the player think it's connected to a DV display so it sends a low latency DV signal and does the DV metadata work on the player side before sending to the display. This in effect performs the equivelent of tone mapping, once you configure the DV and HDR tabs in the Vertex2 to take into account the displays NITS capabilities.

If you don't have a Vertex2, then just use the REC 709 and/or the BT.2020 HDR settings and see how you like it. Otherwise, you can also use the built in modes.


----------



## lattiboy

m0j0 said:


> Ok, here goes. All calibration done using Color Warm:
> 
> Rec 709 calibration first:
> View attachment 3262444
> 
> 
> HDR calibration 2nd:
> View attachment 3262446
> 
> 
> LLDV calibration 3rd (this is the one I am using with the Vertex2):
> View attachment 3262447
> 
> 
> Here are the Vertex2 settings (note I changed MIN luminance down to 0 on the DV tab):
> View attachment 3262450
> 
> 
> View attachment 3262451
> 
> 
> For children's content, be it 1080p or DV, I found that a really high contrast and low brightness setting works best (Abby Hatcher, True and the Rainbow Kingdom, etc.):
> 
> This is with my LLDV Vertex2 setup using the Roku Ultra:
> 
> Brightness: 26
> Contrast: 99
> Saturation: 41
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 51
> Color: Warm


Goddamnit, you’ve bullied me into ordering one of these things you monster!


----------



## Ricoflashback

lattiboy said:


> Goddamnit, you’ve bullied me into ordering one of these things you monster!


Wait until m0j0 sets up his 800 Vertex2 support line.


----------



## zoomx2

m0j0 said:


> It uses an EDID trick to make the player think it's connected to a DV display so it sends a low latency DV signal and does the DV metadata work on the player side before sending to the display. This in effect performs the equivelent of tone mapping, once you configure the DV and HDR tabs in the Vertex2 to take into account the displays NITS capabilities.
> 
> If you don't have a Vertex2, then just use the REC 709 and/or the BT.2020 HDR settings and see how you like it. Otherwise, you can also use the built in modes.


Would you able to picture same scene with/ without Vertex2 ? Does it upscale the resolution?


----------



## zaselim

I have question for anyone who is also using a gaming console with T1, do select 2160-rgb or 2160-yuv420 for better hdr?


----------



## m0j0

zoomx2 said:


> Would you able to picture same scene with/ without Vertex2 ? Does it upscale the resolution?


It can upscale but I have that turned off currently. You can easily toggle LLDV on and off from the GUI if you want to test between the Vertex2 LLDV and the native DV of the T1, for example.


----------



## m0j0

lattiboy said:


> Goddamnit, you’ve bullied me into ordering one of these things you monster!


Sorry man! You won't be sorry though when you get your Vertex2...


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> Wait until m0j0 sets up his 800 Vertex2 support line.


This number is no longer in service. If you have a problem, call someone else...


----------



## chrisdu46

m0j0 said:


> Ok, here goes. All calibration done using Color Warm:
> 
> Rec 709 calibration first:
> View attachment 3262444
> 
> 
> HDR calibration 2nd:
> View attachment 3262446
> 
> 
> LLDV calibration 3rd (this is the one I am using with the Vertex2):
> View attachment 3262447
> 
> 
> Here are the Vertex2 settings (note I changed MIN luminance down to 0 on the DV tab):
> View attachment 3262450
> 
> 
> View attachment 3262451
> 
> 
> For children's content, be it 1080p or DV, I found that a really high contrast and low brightness setting works best (Abby Hatcher, True and the Rainbow Kingdom, etc.):
> 
> This is with my LLDV Vertex2 setup using the Roku Ultra:
> 
> Brightness: 26
> Contrast: 99
> Saturation: 41
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 51
> Color: Warm


Thanks for your settings! What is your brightness mode setting? Office ?


----------



## m0j0

chrisdu46 said:


> Thanks for your settings! What is your brightness mode setting? Office ?


Yes, sorry. Brightness mode is always Office for me.


----------



## rooterha

Liking the updated ones - haven't found any content yet that was unwatchable even some of the too dark ones I had before. Very nice.


----------



## Aztar35

donw said:


> So here is the warranty deal straight from Chris Chen (Alibaba vendor). All T1 have 3 year warranty, but shipping is only covered for the first year. And for the first year you deal with the vendor for any warranty work. Chris reimbursed me $30 it cost to send my unit to her US contact. My replacement is being held up in Hong Kong due to the recent pandemic break out. I do have a DHL tracking number, though.


What was wrong with your projector?


----------



## donw

Aztar35 said:


> What was wrong with your projector?


The whole top half of the picture was extremely blurry, and no amount of focus adjustment or tilting the projector would fix it. Since the seller checks every unit before it goes out the door, it must have been damaged in shipping.


----------



## m0j0

rooterha said:


> Liking the updated ones - haven't found any content yet that was unwatchable even some of the too dark ones I had before. Very nice.


Yeah, shadow detail is great now! Enjoy!


----------



## Aztar35

m0j0 said:


> A few new pics after calibration:


I've gotten used to you posting screen stills of the Elven Queen to use the same photo for color comparisons. These new ones look great though. Pics are difficult to gauge over a monitor, but these pics look very natural now...nice sand color and warm tones coming through on my monitor.

So, what's the skinny on motion for the T1? I haven't fully read any reviews on it yet. Does it actually do true 24hz/24fps or is it internally scaling to 60hz?


----------



## m0j0

Aztar35 said:


> I've gotten used to you posting screen stills of the Elven Queen to use the same photo for color comparisons. These new ones look great though. Pics are difficult to gauge over a monitor, but these pics look very natural now...nice sand color and warm tones coming through on my monitor.
> 
> So, what's the skinny on motion for the T1? I haven't fully read any reviews on it yet. Does it actually do true 24hz/24fps or is it internally scaling to 60hz?


It doesn’t do 24hz native, but I have found motion to be very good at 60hz. I now have my Z9X locked at 60Hz and motion in movies looks great.


----------



## Grazed

m0j0 said:


> This is with my LLDV Vertex2 setup using the Roku Ultra:
> 
> Brightness: 26
> Contrast: 99
> Saturation: 41
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 51
> Color: Warm


Hey @m0j0,

I noticed you have been using sharpness at 22. I have the same Spears and Munsil UHD disk and on the sharpness test pattern for some reason on my unit I can turn it all the way to 100 or 0 and there is literally no difference. I am on the firmware 1.4.6 though so I'm not sure that was something they fixed with the beta version. 

My second question is moving between SDR and HDR content the T1 is using the exact same custom color values instead of allowing you to set different settings like I am able to on the Optoma P2. Is this something that is fixed on the new firmware as well? or are you manually changing the settings when you know you are about to watch content in that color space? Right now I use settings that look good in both since it uses the same settings globally but I would prefer to have them both be perfect.


----------



## m0j0

Grazed said:


> Hey @m0j0,
> 
> I noticed you have been using sharpness at 22. I have the same Spears and Munsil UHD disk and on the sharpness test pattern for some reason on my unit I can turn it all the way to 100 or 0 and there is literally no difference. I am on the firmware 1.4.6 though so I'm not sure that was something they fixed with the beta version.
> 
> My second question is moving between SDR and HDR content the T1 is using the exact same custom color values instead of allowing you to set different settings like I am able to on the Optoma P2. Is this something that is fixed on the new firmware as well? or are you manually changing the settings when you know you are about to watch content in that color space? Right now I use settings that look good in both since it uses the same settings globally but I would prefer to have them both be perfect.


On the sharpness setting, you are right, adjusting sharpness controls had no affect on the sharpness test pattern. I actually came to this setting value using real world content. Witcher, season 2 episode 7 at 27:30. The vertical lines in the woman’s blue dress were causing some weird jittering on my screen and subsided after I lowered sharpness to 22, so there it has stayed.

On the 2nd question, even with the current beta 2.0 firmware, you would have to manually change custom values between SDR and HDR if you want to use the calibrated values. I don’t do this as I use a Vertex2 and everything is sent as LLDV (everything stays in d65/bt.2020 color space and is tone mapped), so just one custom setting is needed for the majority of content (with the exception of my higher contrast/lower brightness of 99/26 that I like best for kids shows).


----------



## Grazed

m0j0 said:


> On the 2nd question, even with the current beta 2.0 firmware, you would have to manually change custom values between SDR and HDR if you want to use the calibrated values. I don’t do this as I use a Vertex2 and everything is sent as LLDV (everything stays in d65/bt.2020 color space and is tone mapped), so just one custom setting is needed for the majority of content (with the exception of my higher contrast/lower brightness of 99/26 that I like best for kids shows).


Oh ok yea I picked up a Vertex 2 a couple days ago prior to the arrival of the T1. I am using it with the Nvidia Shield Pro though since I stream games occasionally. I may have to grab the Apple TV 4K from the bedroom and try it out with forcing everything to be LLDV. Was there any particular reason you prefer the Roku Ultra over your ATV?


----------



## franzel_magetower

Peter Leafshear said:


> Below is the diagram from the 4K Cinema user manual available on the FCC web site. You can see the numbers are different compared to the diagram of the Xiaomi C2 posted before.
> 
> View attachment 3248639


I was just looking at the Vividstorm floor-rising 120" screen and it's only 35 cm from the bottom of the casing to the start of the projection screen itself. But according to the chart posted above by @Peter Leafshear the T1 needs 43 cm from the bottom of the projector to the bottom of the screen. Does that mean, even if it's on the ground, you're looking at some kind of keystoning?

That would be really annoying.

Does anyone have the combo of Vividstorm floor-rising screen and T1?

Thanks!


----------



## m0j0

Grazed said:


> Oh ok yea I picked up a Vertex 2 a couple days ago prior to the arrival of the T1. I am using it with the Nvidia Shield Pro though since I stream games occasionally. I may have to grab the Apple TV 4K from the bedroom and try it out with forcing everything to be LLDV. Was there any particular reason you prefer the Roku Ultra over your ATV?


In my testing, I was able to go much higher with the contrast settings on the Roku Ultra without blowing out white highlights. Other than that, I really liked the ATV4K.


----------



## Timothyyy

Does anyone else have a high pitch nosies form the machine not from fan. And it’s gone in ultra quiet mode.but ultra quite mode looks terrible. It’s very annoying and I can’t live with that.


----------



## m0j0

Now, here's something I wasn't able to do before the calibration, take really low light pictures! These pictures before were completely unwatchable, much less able to be photographed. This is what tone mapping is all about! Granted, they don't look great, but just being able to see them is the point of the calibration and using the Vertex2 to do the tone mapping, giving you really wide ranging shadow details. First, the really ultra dark scenes from Dune. Then some slightly better dark scenes from Aladdin, then finally a few from the Witcher.


----------



## Timothyyy

Timothyyy said:


> Does anyone else have a high pitch nosies form the machine not from fan. And it’s gone in ultra quiet mode.but ultra quite mode looks terrible. It’s very annoying and I can’t live with that.


It’s like sound from ECG when heart beats stop.


----------



## m0j0

Timothyyy said:


> It’s like sound from ECG when heart beats stop.


No, can't say I recall hearing anything like that.


----------



## rooterha

Timothyyy said:


> Does anyone else have a high pitch nosies form the machine not from fan. And it’s gone in ultra quiet mode.but ultra quite mode looks terrible. It’s very annoying and I can’t live with that.


No I don't have one. Just faint fan noise.


----------



## m0j0

Aztar35 said:


> I've gotten used to you posting screen stills of the Elven Queen to use the same photo for color comparisons. These new ones look great though. Pics are difficult to gauge over a monitor, but these pics look very natural now...nice sand color and warm tones coming through on my monitor.
> 
> So, what's the skinny on motion for the T1? I haven't fully read any reviews on it yet. Does it actually do true 24hz/24fps or is it internally scaling to 60hz?


Did someone summon the queen?


----------



## sleeper37

m0j0 said:


> I don’t do this as I use a Vertex2 and everything is sent as LLDV (everything stays in d65/bt.2020 color space and is tone mapped), so just one custom setting is needed for the majority of content (with the exception of my higher contrast/lower brightness of 99/26 that I like best for kids shows).


Are you sure you don’t work for HDFury?  Your latest screenshots are looking good. Really contemplating picking one up. I know you use the Roku, but would an Nvidia Shield Pro yield similar results?


----------



## m0j0

sleeper37 said:


> Are you sure you don’t work for HDFury?  Your latest screenshots are looking good. Really contemplating picking one up. I know you use the Roku, but would an Nvidia Shield Pro yield similar results?


Yep, sure I don't work for HDFury. They can't afford me... 

I also tested with the latest Nvidia Shield Pro and it too did allow for a higher contrast while not blowing out highlights, so yes, it would work and yield similar results, but only for native DV content with Vertex2. In fact, I really liked the look of the Shield Pro, it's too bad they don't come out with a way to force DV on it. One odd thing I did notice though was that The Witcher had a darker, much more stubbly looking beard during some of the fight scenes toward the end of Season 2 Episode 7. I'm thinking I would probably scale back or turn off the AI if I were to use it more frequently, but that's just one outlying observation.


----------



## Grazed

Timothyyy said:


> Does anyone else have a high pitch nosies form the machine not from fan. And it’s gone in ultra quiet mode.but ultra quite mode looks terrible. It’s very annoying and I can’t live with that.


I do not have any high pitch noise. I'm assuming you're talking about coil whine? I've experienced it with several other USTs I had (LSP7T, HU85LA, P2) but I don't hear it with this particular unit. I was able to get a P2 without coil whine after ordering a replacement.


----------



## Aztar35

m0j0 said:


> Now, here's something I wasn't able to do before the calibration, take really low light pictures! These pictures before were completely unwatchable, much less able to be photographed. This is what tone mapping is all about! Granted, they don't look great, but just being able to see them is the point of the calibration and using the Vertex2 to do the tone mapping, giving you really wide ranging shadow details. First, the really ultra dark scenes from Dune. Then some slightly better dark scenes from Aladdin, then finally a few from the Witcher.
> 
> View attachment 3262712
> 
> 
> View attachment 3262713
> 
> 
> View attachment 3262714
> 
> 
> View attachment 3262715
> 
> 
> View attachment 3262716
> 
> 
> View attachment 3262717
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3262719
> 
> 
> View attachment 3262720
> 
> 
> View attachment 3262722
> 
> 
> View attachment 3262723


The shadow detail is outstanding.

How do skin tones look compared to your Sony's...as good as the Sony no redish push in person?


----------



## m0j0

Aztar35 said:


> The shadow detail is outstanding.
> 
> How do skin tones look compared to your Sony's...no redish push in person?


No, not at all. The skin tones look really good in person!


----------



## m0j0

Updated my calibration post to include screenshots for the T1, Roku Ultra and Zidoo Z9X









Formovie Fengmi T1


Try unplug the cable and plug in again. Sometimes it doesn’t detect the signal.




www.avsforum.com


----------



## B4D S4NT4

Yesterday to [email protected] 

Hi support, did you release your firmware or is there something special to do on the T1 to upgrade ?
I have no news, and as you said it was supposed to be released mid March I'm wondering. 
_
Hi Thomas,

Glad to hear from you! 
The latest version of Feng OS is expected to be issued at the end of April. 
At present, we are stepping up the research and development and testing of the new version, 
before that we will no longer push the new version separately.
You will be able to update the version soon, thank you for your support!_

C'est pas gagné cette histoire.


----------



## gostocks

B4D S4NT4 said:


> Yesterday to [email protected]
> 
> Hi support, did you release your firmware or is there something special to do on the T1 to upgrade ?
> I have no news, and as you said it was supposed to be released mid March I'm wondering.
> 
> _Hi Thomas,
> 
> Glad to hear from you!
> The latest version of Feng OS is expected to be issued at the end of April.
> At present, we are stepping up the research and development and testing of the new version,
> before that we will no longer push the new version separately.
> You will be able to update the version soon, thank you for your support!_
> 
> C'est pas gagné cette histoire.


Lol got same standard reply 😂😂😂


----------



## wltam

m0j0 said:


> Yep, sure I don't work for HDFury. They can't afford me...
> 
> I also tested with the latest Nvidia Shield Pro and it too did allow for a higher contrast while not blowing out highlights, so yes, it would work and yield similar results, but only for native DV content with Vertex2. In fact, I really liked the look of the Shield Pro, it's too bad they don't come out with a way to force DV on it. One odd thing I did notice though was that The Witcher had a darker, much more stubbly looking beard during some of the fight scenes toward the end of Season 2 Episode 7. I'm thinking I would probably scale back or turn off the AI if I were to use it more frequently, but that's just one outlying observation.


Hi Mojo! Coming back to what you mentioned here, does it mean that depending on the video source, you need to adapt the settings each time on the Shield? EG settings for SDR/HDR/HDR10/DV? And what about on the Vertex2? Do you need to adapt that per source too or only the projector settings? To clarify, I have a Shield Pro and I am seriously doubting in getting a Vertex2 to help me getting the best images and I am looking for what you would recommend.


----------



## rjyap

B4D S4NT4 said:


> Yesterday to [email protected]
> 
> Hi support, did you release your firmware or is there something special to do on the T1 to upgrade ?
> I have no news, and as you said it was supposed to be released mid March I'm wondering.
> 
> _Hi Thomas,
> 
> Glad to hear from you!
> The latest version of Feng OS is expected to be issued at the end of April.
> At present, we are stepping up the research and development and testing of the new version,
> before that we will no longer push the new version separately.
> You will be able to update the version soon, thank you for your support!_
> 
> C'est pas gagné cette histoire.


Another delay! Could have let us to manually update to beta if we wish to opt in. Just check Fengmi C2 thread and looks like they get v2.0 stable version push out. Hopefully T1 soon.


----------



## zaselim

Guys my OS version is 2079, and some of you got 2 more updates after that right? Can you plz tell me what were their version numbers and what did they fixed.


----------



## nas19

Basic question here, shouldn't the HDFury help with the dull HDR picture in the current stable version by modifying the EDID (max luminance settings)? I'm not talking about lldv, but just plain HDR content. It's an expensive solution to the problem, but still a worthy one nonetheless, right?


----------



## m0j0

wltam said:


> Hi Mojo! Coming back to what you mentioned here, does it mean that depending on the video source, you need to adapt the settings each time on the Shield? EG settings for SDR/HDR/HDR10/DV? And what about on the Vertex2? Do you need to adapt that per source too or only the projector settings? To clarify, I have a Shield Pro and I am seriously doubting in getting a Vertex2 to help me getting the best images and I am looking for what you would recommend.


I didn't spend a lot of time figuring out the best way to use the Shield with the T1 and Vertex2, but I did do some video testing and the picture was impressive, so it's definitely worth it I think. However, I do recall thinking it would be some work having to account for the different types of source/content and getting things to match up from a color space perspective, as yes, the parameters are different for SDR and HDR on the T1 based on what I saw with the calibration results. That's one of the reasons I decided to give the Roku Ultra a try, as I wanted something I could force always on DV with so I didn't have to change between color spaces and could just use a single setting for all content.


----------



## 3sprit

m0j0 said:


> That's one of the reasons I decided to give the Roku Ultra a try, as I wanted something I could force always on DV with so I didn't have to change between color spaces and could just use a single setting for all content.


Can it only be done with the Roku? 🤔


----------



## DeanM3

I'm still pressing them to enable 3.5mm audio out with the internal speaker enabled to allow 3rd party subwoofers. Currently you must buy the Fengmi 2.1 system. 

If anyone else wants to help out and send the same request it would be much appreciated ( although I'm pretty sure only a few of us here need/want this )


----------



## wltam

m0j0 said:


> I didn't spend a lot of time figuring out the best way to use the Shield with the T1 and Vertex2, but I did do some video testing and the picture was impressive, so it's definitely worth it I think. However, I do recall thinking it would be some work having to account for the different types of source/content and getting things to match up from a color space perspective, as yes, the parameters are different for SDR and HDR on the T1 based on what I saw with the calibration results. That's one of the reasons I decided to give the Roku Ultra a try, as I wanted something I could force always on DV with so I didn't have to change between color spaces and could just use a single setting for all content.


@lattiboy Are u using a shield?


----------



## m0j0

3sprit said:


> Can it only be done with the Roku? 🤔


You can force DV on the ATV4k and the newest Roku Ultra that supports DV. You can also use a blu ray player like the Sony X800M2, which has the ability to both play discs and stream Netflix/Amazon Prime. The Zidoo Z9X, which is used primarily to play local media files, also supports the ability to play all content as LLDV. There are probably others I'm missing, but those are the ones I know for sure.


----------



## Ricoflashback

A question for you Fengmi T1 owners: How much room do you have for a flat speaker just below a flat screen on the wall. I'm not sure if it varies with screen size (100" to 120") but I'm looking at this as a potential solution for a center channel. Thx in advance.

P.S. - probably a two part answer in the measurement of the speaker from the wall out and the top-down size of the speaker, as well. The latter would need to clear the top of the Fengmi PJ.


----------



## xrayg1971

wltam said:


> Hi Mojo! Coming back to what you mentioned here, does it mean that depending on the video source, you need to adapt the settings each time on the Shield? EG settings for SDR/HDR/HDR10/DV? And what about on the Vertex2? Do you need to adapt that per source too or only the projector settings? To clarify, I have a Shield Pro and I am seriously doubting in getting a Vertex2 to help me getting the best images and I am looking for what you would recommend.


wondering the same ... best setting for all is the way i look at it ... i wont get a vertex either , no loot at this time ... so need to work with what i have


----------



## oryschak

Ricoflashback said:


> A question for you Fengmi T1 owners: How much room do you have for a flat speaker just below a flat screen on the wall. I'm not sure if it varies with screen size (100" to 120") but I'm looking at this as a potential solution for a center channel. Thx in advance.
> 
> P.S. - probably a two part answer in the measurement of the speaker from the wall out and the top-down size of the speaker, as well. The latter would need to clear the top of the Fengmi PJ.












I've been exploring on-wall centers as my Klipsch RC64-III (matched to my RF-7's) won't fit underneath the UST in my basement with 7' ceilings.

The photo is a Grandview Dynamique 120" with a Focal 302 underneath it. the 302 is 4" deep and isn't in the light path. Before the Focal I tried out the Martin Logan SLM XL which also fit fine. The distance from the bottom of the UST to the bottom of the screen bezel is 16". The frame is 24" up from the floor.

If I had higher ceilings I would endeavor to get the RC64 working. I actually found I prefer using a phantom center in my current set up - when I first hooked up the Focal I thought "wow this sounds great!" without realizing I had the center turned off in the receiver. Once I turned it on the Focal sounded muddy in comparison even after tweaks. The ML sounded pretty good, though, but not better than a phantom center.


----------



## sleeper37

oryschak said:


> I've been exploring on-wall centers as my Klipsch RC64-III (matched to my RF-7's) won't fit underneath the UST in my basement with 7' ceilings.
> 
> The photo is a Grandview Dynamique 120" with a Focal 302 underneath it. the 302 is 4" deep and isn't in the light path. Before the Focal I tried out the Martin Logan SLM XL which also fit fine. The distance from the bottom of the UST to the bottom of the screen bezel is 16". The frame is 24" up from the floor.


I see the RC64-III is quite deep, 15". Do you think a 10.5" deep by 8" high center channel would fit in there? My T1 and 115" screen should be here next week and was seeing if I could fit my Elac C6.2 in between the screen and T1. But, having trouble finding good measurements online.

Does anyone have any ideas on how to get my center channel to fit between the screen and T1?


----------



## Ricoflashback

oryschak said:


> View attachment 3262944
> 
> 
> I've been exploring on-wall centers as my Klipsch RC64-III (matched to my RF-7's) won't fit underneath the UST in my basement with 7' ceilings.
> 
> The photo is a Grandview Dynamique 120" with a Focal 302 underneath it. the 302 is 4" deep and isn't in the light path. Before the Focal I tried out the Martin Logan SLM XL which also fit fine. The distance from the bottom of the UST to the bottom of the screen bezel is 16". The frame is 24" up from the floor.
> 
> If I had higher ceilings I would endeavor to get the RC64 working. I actually found I prefer using a phantom center in my current set up - when I first hooked up the Focal I thought "wow this sounds great!" without realizing I had the center turned off in the receiver. Once I turned it on the Focal sounded muddy in comparison even after tweaks. The ML sounded pretty good, though, but not better than a phantom center.


Much appreciated! How deep can the center channel be, in your estimation, as well as the length from top to bottom, vertically, for the center speaker? I'm guessing almost a foot from the top to the bottom of the center speaker on the wall underneath the screen. With ten foot high ceilings, I can have a higher cabinet (not too high) to get the center channel as close to sitting ear level as I can. Thx again!


----------



## m0j0

xrayg1971 said:


> wondering the same ... best setting for all is the way i look at it ... i wont get a vertex either , no loot at this time ... so need to work with what i have


I would say go with the calibrated values for the content you watch most. If, for example, you primarily watch HDR then use those as your custom values and just use the built in modes when watching SDR. Perhaps that will be workable.


----------



## m0j0

More pics...


----------



## xrayg1971

m0j0 said:


> More pics...
> 
> View attachment 3262964
> 
> 
> View attachment 3262969
> 
> 
> View attachment 3262965
> 
> 
> View attachment 3262966
> 
> 
> View attachment 3262967


damm looks sick ... is that also in a completely dark room ? how does it look with some ambiente light ?


----------



## m0j0

xrayg1971 said:


> damm looks sick ... is that also in a completely dark room ? how does it look with some ambiente light ?


Those pictures were taken at night in my living room with light colored walls and white ceiling, but with all lights off. It still looks good in the afternoon and evening with ambient light or overhead lights, but obviously not quite to this level. My kids watch shows on it all day and I am always impressed with how good the picture looks, even in daytime.


----------



## humax

According to Gregory: "The new FengOS 2.0 OS is now available for update directly from the web-connected projector. (FengOS 2.0.0.2534). "


----------



## m0j0

humax said:


> According to Gregory: "The new FengOS 2.0 OS is now available for update directly from the web-connected projector. (FengOS 2.0.0.2534). "


I'm at .2224 and don't yet see any new updates available. Maybe it takes time to push out...


----------



## wesleyrbk

humax said:


> According to Gregory: "The new FengOS 2.0 OS is now available for update directly from the web-connected projector. (FengOS 2.0.0.2534). "


No update here yet


----------



## rooterha

Yeah - I think only the C2 has it so far.


----------



## 3sprit

m0j0 said:


> You can force DV on the ATV4k and the newest Roku Ultra that supports DV


Can I force DV for SDR and HDR?


----------



## wltam

Maybe a silly question but can Kodi force DV? I have a shield and given that you can’t buy a Roku Ultra here, I prefer to stick with the shield


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> You can force DV on the ATV4k and the newest Roku Ultra that supports DV. You can also use a blu ray player like the Sony X800M2, which has the ability to both play discs and stream Netflix/Amazon Prime. The Zidoo Z9X, which is used primarily to play local media files, also supports the ability to play all content as LLDV. There are probably others I'm missing, but those are the ones I know for sure.


m0j0, would you be familiar with the Ugoos am6B+ Android box? It has the Amlogic S922XJ processor which can do DV, and I've seen forum posts mentioning a switch to enable LLDV. But I can't find confirmation that it can do LLDV for all content.


----------



## m0j0

wltam said:


> Maybe a silly question but can Kodi force DV? I have a shield and given that you can’t buy a Roku Ultra here, I prefer to stick with the shield


I don't know Kodi well, but it's not likely. I do believe the Amazon Firestick/Cube/etc. devices can also can force DV.


----------



## m0j0

donw said:


> m0j0, would you be familiar with the Ugoos am6B+ Android box? It has the Amlogic S922XJ processor which can do DV, and I've seen forum posts mentioning a switch to enable LLDV. But I can't find confirmation that it can do LLDV for all content.


I'm not familiar with it, sorry.


----------



## donw

wltam said:


> Maybe a silly question but can Kodi force DV? I have a shield and given that you can’t buy a Roku Ultra here, I prefer to stick with the shield


Kodi in it's official released form can't even play DV sources correctly. But there is a fork from a German site called kodinerds that can play DV files.


----------



## wltam

donw said:


> Kodi in it's official released form can't even play DV sources correctly. But there is a fork from a German site called kodinerds that can play DV files.


Strange… mine does and I don’t think I installed the German fork…

Is perhaps someone at AVS perhaps willing to ship me a Roku Ultra? If I prepay via PayPal? 😇


----------



## CabbageMan

humax said:


> According to Gregory: "The new FengOS 2.0 OS is now available for update directly from the web-connected projector. (FengOS 2.0.0.2534). "


Mind linking where he said that?


----------



## humax

CabbageMan said:


> Mind linking where he said that?



Fengmi Formovie T1 test: Gregory's opinion. – – The PHC Blog – (passionhomecinema.fr)

It is his last comment in the T1 review.


----------



## m0j0

humax said:


> Fengmi Formovie T1 test: Gregory's opinion. – – The PHC Blog – (passionhomecinema.fr)
> 
> It is his last comment in the T1 review.


With today's date no less...


----------



## t333

Hi guys i was so excited for t1, today i got it..but ports are misaligned..what should i do? Contact wupro for replacement or is there a way to hookup hdmi?
They shipped from CA warehouse btw .


----------



## m0j0

t333 said:


> Hi guys i was so excited for t1, today i got it..but ports are misaligned..what should i do? Contact wupro for replacement or is there a way to hookup hdmi?
> They shipped from CA warehouse btw .
> View attachment 3263070
> 
> View attachment 3263069


If you're not willing to try and unscrew and fix the alignment of the case, then I would contact them for a replacement.


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> If you're not willing to try and unscrew and fix the alignment of the case, then I would contact them for a replacement.


Or, see if they are functional as no one will see them and it shouldn't affect anything. You also shouldn't have to accept that unit without a significant discount, IMHO. Have them pay for your inconvenience or ship a new Fengmi T1 to you.


----------



## t333

m0j0 said:


> If you're not willing to try and unscrew and fix the alignment of the case, then I would contact them for a replacement.


Is it easy to open and fix? im pretty handy, but i will only try it as last option.




Ricoflashback said:


> Or, see if they are functional as no one will see them and it shouldn't affect anything. You also shouldn't have to accept that unit without a significant discount, IMHO. Have them pay for your inconvenience or ship a new Fengmi T1 to you.


i left a msg on chat on alibaba , but it probably too early for them to response. I will wait and see what they have to say about this.


----------



## donw

wltam said:


> Strange… mine does and I don’t think I installed the German fork…
> 
> Is perhaps someone at AVS perhaps willing to ship me a Roku Ultra? If I prepay via PayPal? 😇


MP4 DV files could work marginally, but MKV files are not supported by official Kodi. That is what I've read any way.


----------



## JereyWolf

t333 said:


> Is it easy to open and fix? im pretty handy, but i will only try it as last option.
> 
> 
> 
> i left a msg on chat on alibaba , but it probably too early for them to response. I will wait and see what they have to say about this.


Mine has a a void warranty sticker over one of the screw holes required to open up the projector.


----------



## xrayg1971

t333 said:


> Is it easy to open and fix? im pretty handy, but i will only try it as last option.
> 
> 
> 
> i left a msg on chat on alibaba , but it probably too early for them to response. I will wait and see what they have to say about this.


yea f that ... get some sort of refund then just fix it yourself


----------



## eezrider

franzel_magetower said:


> I was just looking at the Vividstorm floor-rising 120" screen and it's only 35 cm from the bottom of the casing to the start of the projection screen itself. But according to the chart posted above by @Peter Leafshear the T1 needs 43 cm from the bottom of the projector to the bottom of the screen. Does that mean, even if it's on the ground, you're looking at some kind of keystoning?
> 
> That would be really annoying.
> 
> Does anyone have the combo of Vividstorm floor-rising screen and T1?
> 
> Thanks!


I have that combo. I currently have the screen blocked up about 2 1/4 inches with the T1 on the floor. My plan is to hack an Ikea Besta cabinet to accommodate the projector with screen raised about 9 inches so it's behind and flush with the cabinet. If it works I'll post details in the UST cabinet thread.


----------



## jakechoy

t333 said:


> Hi guys i was so excited for t1, today i got it..but ports are misaligned..what should i do? Contact wupro for replacement or is there a way to hookup hdmi?
> They shipped from CA warehouse btw .
> View attachment 3263070
> 
> View attachment 3263069


Have seen such situation before due to shipping knocks. If u can, try to use a HDMI connector to point in the direction of the misalgined port, and pivot it down. then the entire connection board should pop back down and be aligned. Might need a little force depending on how bad the knock was. Don't need t open it up.


----------



## GiantBubbleGuy

jakechoy said:


> Have seen such situation before due to shipping knocks. If u can, try to use a HDMI connector to point in the direction of the misalgined port, and pivot it down. then the entire connection board should pop back down and be aligned. Might need a little force depending on how bad the knock was. Don't need t open it up.


That could reseat the connection board. I'd be concerned that a knock hard enough to knock it out of place would also have screwed up the optical alignment. That assumes it was a result of a knock during shipping and not a manufacturing issue. I'd probably ask for a replacement out of caution if it was mine.


----------



## MarviGito

t333 said:


> Hi guys i was so excited for t1, today i got it..but ports are misaligned..what should i do? Contact wupro for replacement or is there a way to hookup hdmi?
> They shipped from CA warehouse btw .
> View attachment 3263070
> 
> View attachment 3263069


Did it at least turn on?


----------



## pionoor

m0j0 said:


> Updated my calibration post to include screenshots for the T1, Roku Ultra and Zidoo Z9X
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Formovie Fengmi T1
> 
> 
> Try unplug the cable and plug in again. Sometimes it doesn’t detect the signal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


What is the size of your screen? I have 120 vividstorm and i just cant get the focus right. The top corners are always blurry. It would be nice to know the focus settings (in terms of how many clicks from left to right) for each screen size.


----------



## m0j0

pionoor said:


> What is the size of your screen? I have 120 vividstorm and i just cant get the focus right. The top corners are always blurry. It would be nice to know the focus settings (in terms of how many clicks from left to right) for each screen size.


Mine is 100 inches. I noticed that if you go all the way left, the center will typically be focused but the edges a little soft. I find about 3 clicks brings everything pretty even, but for a larger screen, perhaps more or less clicks will be needed. I advise you to do 1 click to the right at a time and then move back away from the projector about 8 feet and take stock of the focus in each corner, then do another click and step back again. Hopefully you will get it. Also, I believe they improved the focus function in a later firmware, so if you don't have 2.0 then maybe wait and see if you can get better focus once that rolls out.


----------



## m0j0

(Edited my original post a bit)
Made some more changes tonight. I reran calibration to see the impact of changing brightness from office to night because I read in Gregory's review how the night mode seemed to give the most accurate color, so I wanted to give it a try. I ended up not needing to change any settings other than switching to night mode. It turns out that using night mode for night time viewing in a dark room is pretty awesome! The shadow detail and color accuracy are both super impressive. I got much better night shots than I have ever gotten before. Here's a few:


----------



## driege

t333 said:


> Hi guys i was so excited for t1, today i got it..but ports are misaligned..what should i do? Contact wupro for replacement or is there a way to hookup hdmi?
> They shipped from CA warehouse btw .
> View attachment 3263070
> 
> View attachment 3263069


Mine were slightly misaligned left/right and I couldn't plug in the HDMI cables at first. I just jammed/shimmied them in there and now they plug in much more easily. Not sure if it will work with yours, but you might be able to insert the cables angled up and force them into ports and thereby get all the inputs in the proper alignment.


----------



## JereyWolf

pionoor said:


> What is the size of your screen? I have 120 vividstorm and i just cant get the focus right. The top corners are always blurry. It would be nice to know the focus settings (in terms of how many clicks from left to right) for each screen size.


I have a fixed 120" screen and my top corners are a bit blurry too. No amount of focus adjustment has been able to bring the entire picture into uniform focus. I even shimmed my screen (by putting spacers behind the wall mounts) at 0.5° and again at 1.0° off the wall, but the top corners are still always a bit more blurry than the bottom. It's not noticeable when watching normal content, but in PC use and gaming, it looks a bit soft.

My best case for focus has been similar to what @m0j0 suggested, all the way to the left, then a few clicks back to the right.


----------



## okvcos

m0j0 said:


> Made some more changes tonight. I reran calibration to see the impact of changing brightness from office to night because I read in Gregory's review how the night mode seemed to give the most accurate color, so I wanted to give it a try. It turned out that calibrating for night time viewing using night mode is pretty awesome! The shadow detail and color accuracy are both super impressive. I got much better night shots than I have ever gotten before. Here's a few:


Hello m0j0, what did you change in the setting?
Thank


----------



## Rvarma

m0j0 said:


> Made some more changes tonight. I reran calibration to see the impact of changing brightness from office to night because I read in Gregory's review how the night mode seemed to give the most accurate color, so I wanted to give it a try. It turned out that calibrating for night time viewing using night mode is pretty awesome! The shadow detail and color accuracy are both super impressive. I got much better night shots than I have ever gotten before. Here's a few:
> 
> View attachment 3263174
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263180
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263175
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263176
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263177
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263178


can we achieve same PQ with HDfury arcana , how vertex2 is different from it?


----------



## wltam

Would it actually be an idea to summarize all the settings on the first page so that we can all easily find it back?


----------



## m0j0

okvcos said:


> Hello m0j0, what did you change in the setting?
> Thank


I will update my settings post with this info, but I only changed Brightness Mode from Office to Night Mode. All other settings remained the same. I was also testing calibration for night time viewing with lights on and had set Tone to 53, so was thinking I dropped it down to 51 for night mode, but 51 was already the setting I was using when I calibrated for LLDV so really, no changes other than just switching from Office to Night Mode.


----------



## m0j0

I added a 4th calibration, which is LLDV at night with lights on (or even early afternoon with minimal ambient light), to my settings. I had to bump up brightness and also bump up tone. However, if you watch a lot at night with canned lights on, this is an excellent setting.









Formovie Fengmi T1


Try unplug the cable and plug in again. Sometimes it doesn’t detect the signal.




www.avsforum.com


----------



## m0j0

Rvarma said:


> can we achieve same PQ with HDfury arcana , how vertex2 is different from it?


I don't think you have all the controls needed on the Arcana to make the changes I have made, but you can check with HDFury to get a better understanding of the differences.


----------



## m0j0

Some more pics from last night using calibrated settings with brightness mode set to night mode:














































original shot:









brightness and blue color corrected (this is more like what I see on screen):









original shot









blue color corrected shot (this is more like what I see on screen):


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> Made some more changes tonight. I reran calibration to see the impact of changing brightness from office to night because I read in Gregory's review how the night mode seemed to give the most accurate color, so I wanted to give it a try. It turned out that calibrating for night time viewing using night mode is pretty awesome! The shadow detail and color accuracy are both super impressive. I got much better night shots than I have ever gotten before. Here's a few:
> 
> View attachment 3263174
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263180
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263175
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263176
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263177
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263178


How about some adult shows for a change? You know - the Blacklist, a movie, CNN or other news channel of your choice, HBO, Amazon Prime/Netflix... A wide cross section of cable/satellite, OTA, streaming and major networks. Hey, sports! Right now, you've got the best recommendation for a kiddies projector. Just kidding - - all the pics look great! But it would be nice to see your dialed in picture for sports as well.


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> How about some adult shows for a change? You know - the Blacklist, a movie, CNN or other news channel of your choice, HBO, Amazon Prime/Netflix... A wide cross section of cable/satellite, OTA, streaming and major networks. Hey, sports! Right now, you've got the best recommendation for a kiddies projector. Just kidding - - all the pics look great! But it would be nice to see your dialed in picture for sports as well.


Well, this projector is used for my kids 95% of the time, so there's that... Maybe when NFL season comes around I will take some pics of sports.


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> Well, this projector is used for my kids 95% of the time, so there's that... Maybe when NFL season comes around I will take some pics of sports.


You know I'm kidding, right? And your kids are very lucky to have such a great projector and Dad who dials in an incredible picture for them. I imagine if they watch TV over at some friends house it's not quite the same experience. 

Hey - NCAA Hockey is on today and there are always NBA and NHL games on (TNT/ESPN.) Just a quick shot - - a taste of sports for us sports fans who haven't picked up the PJ yet.


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> You know I'm kidding, right? And your kids are very lucky to have such a great projector and Dad who dials in an incredible picture for them. I imagine if they watch TV over at some friends house it's not quite the same experience.
> 
> Hey - NCAA Hockey is on today and there are always NBA and NHL games on (TNT/ESPN.) Just a quick shot - - a taste of sports for us sports fans who haven't picked up the PJ yet.


I don't have cable, but I do receive digital OTA signals. Unfortunately, that wouldn't be 4k so probably not worth taking pictures.


----------



## m0j0

wltam said:


> Would it actually be an idea to summarize all the settings on the first page so that we can all easily find it back?


It does sound like a good idea. I don't have any posts on the 1st page so couldn't do it myself though.


----------



## xrayg1971

m0j0 said:


> It does sound like a good idea. I don't have any posts on the 1st page so couldn't do it myself though.


mine is incoming .. once i get it and set it up ill post pics of cable / streaming / sheild box also


----------



## ACE844

xrayg1971 said:


> mine is incoming .. once i get it and set it up ill post pics of cable / streaming / sheild box also


Same, I expect mine early next week though I'll have a ghetto fabulous screen for a bit until the permenant screen comes in. I'll post some pics as well.


----------



## rooterha

Just FYI Fengmi also said "end of April" for the update in an email to me... so for non-beta users the wait continues. Glad I have it.


----------



## ACE844

rooterha said:


> Just FYI Fengmi also said "end of April" for the update in an email to me... so for non-beta users the wait continues. Glad I have it.


How do I get enrolled in the beta?


----------



## rooterha

ACE844 said:


> How do I get enrolled in the beta?


Email [email protected] but Im not sure if they're still accepting people. Make a strong case of being dissatisfied with the current state of the projector and maybe they'll get you in?


----------



## ACE844

rooterha said:


> Email [email protected] but Im not sure if they're still accepting people. Make a strong case of being dissatisfied with the current state of the projector and maybe they'll get you in?


Thanks, I'll try that out.


----------



## GaeIta80

Hi guys, sorry but it seems that this thread has become a Vertex/Arcana one...and not everyone wants or can update adding this "extra".

Could you guys plz suggest what's the best SDR/HDR (Display/View?) DV (office/dark?) image settings with the latest 2.0 OS version?

Using a Vividstorm UST 0.6 120" screen, cheers!


----------



## mirkmito

GaeIta80 said:


> Hi guys, sorry but it seems that this thread has become a Vertex/Arcana one...and not everyone wants or can update adding this "extra".
> 
> Could you guys plz suggest what's the best SDR/HDR (Display/View?) DV (office/dark?) image settings with the latest 2.0 OS version?
> 
> Using a Vividstorm UST 0.6 120" screen, cheers!


With real DV ... no hdfury or other emulators you have to set Office Mode and DV dark in night vision .... During the day bright DV ...


----------



## m0j0

GaeIta80 said:


> Hi guys, sorry but it seems that this thread has become a Vertex/Arcana one...and not everyone wants or can update adding this "extra".
> 
> Could you guys plz suggest what's the best SDR/HDR (Display/View?) DV (office/dark?) image settings with the latest 2.0 OS version?
> 
> Using a Vividstorm UST 0.6 120" screen, cheers!


I did provide SDR and HDR calibrated values for custom setting if you want to try them out. DV will be controlled by TV led DV, so not much to do there if you have your device set to play native DV content (other than the T1 settings pointed out by @mirkmito).


----------



## GaeIta80

m0j0 said:


> I did provide SDR and HDR calibrated values for custom setting if you want to try them out. DV will be controlled by TV led DV, so not much to do there if you have your device set to play native DV content (other than the T1 settings pointed out by @mirkmito).


Thanks mate, I just had the impression your custom settings were based using Vertex and not just T1 image custom parameters...


----------



## m0j0

GaeIta80 said:


> Thanks mate, I just had the impression your custom settings were based using Vertex and not just T1 image custom parameters...


No worries. Yeah, I do love the Vertex2 but I know not everyone has one, so I turned it off and just calibrated using the T1 for SDR and HDR initially, so I could provide that to everyone that hasn't run their own calibration. Hopefully you either have the 2.x firmware or they release it soon, as I did find the native T1 led DV to be much improved over the initial 1.4 implementation.


----------



## ted_b

@m0j0 We have been so appreciative of your calibrations/references. However, at least to me, I am a little confused as to which calibration post is the one where you DON'T use the vertex2 (also realizing you do have firmware 2.x).


----------



## m0j0

ted_b said:


> @m0j0 We have been so appreciative of your calibrations/references. However, at least to me, I am a little confused as to which calibration post is the one where you DON'T use the vertex2 (also realizing you do have firmware 2.x).


When I did the calibration using the disc in my 4k blu ray player, I turned off DV on the blu ray player and also turned off the Vertex2 settings so that the signal passed through (no sending custom hdr / lldv signal) and could be changed to SDR or HDR by the calibration disc.

This is SDR (709 color space):










This is HDR (D65/BT.2020 color space based on 1,000 nits):










Then I turned back on DV on the 4k blu ray player and turned back on the send custom hdr as lldv checkbox on the Vertex2, which resulted in this calibration:









The next day, I ran the calibration for the Vertex2 / LLDV setup again, but this time with the lights on. I suspect bumping up brightness +3 and tone +2 with the SDR and HDR settings above when lights are on or during daylight would work just as well but didn't test that.










Lastly, I tested the Vertex2 / LLDV calibration setup after switching from Brightness Mode: Office to Brightness Mode: Night. I didn't see that any further changes needed to be made with this testing, so brightness, contrast, saturation and tone were all still good.


----------



## xrayg1971

m0j0 said:


> When I did the calibration using the disc in my 4k blu ray player, I turned off DV on the blu ray player and also turned off the Vertex2 settings so that the signal passed through (no sending custom hdr / lldv signal) and could be changed to SDR or HDR by the calibration disc.
> 
> This is SDR (709 color space):
> View attachment 3263432
> 
> 
> 
> This is HDR (D65/BT.2020 color space based on 1,000 nits):
> View attachment 3263433
> 
> 
> 
> Then I turned back on DV on the 4k blu ray player and turned back on the send custom hdr as lldv checkbox on the Vertex2, which resulted in this calibration result:
> View attachment 3263434
> 
> 
> The next day, I ran the calibration for the Vertex2 / LLDV setup again, but this time with the lights on. I suspect bumping up brightness +3 and tone +2 with the SDR and HDR settings above when lights are on or during daylight would work just as well but didn't test that.
> 
> View attachment 3263435
> 
> 
> Lastly, I tested the Vertex2 / LLDV calibration setup after switching from Brightness Mode: Office to Brightness Mode: Night. I didn't see that any further changes needed to be made with this testing, so brightness, contrast, saturation and tone were all still good.
> View attachment 3263437


damm even with the lights on looks really really good .. nice job man


----------



## zoomx2

GaeIta80 said:


> Hi guys, sorry but it seems that this thread has become a Vertex/Arcana one...and not everyone wants or can update adding this "extra".
> 
> Could you guys plz suggest what's the best SDR/HDR (Display/View?) DV (office/dark?) image settings with the latest 2.0 OS version?
> 
> Using a Vividstorm UST 0.6 120" screen, cheers!


My setting with the newest firmware. 
View mode Brightness 50 Contrast 52 Saturation 44 Sharpness 50 Tone 50 Temp standard Dynamic contrast On


----------



## t333

JereyWolf said:


> Mine has a a void warranty sticker over one of the screw holes required to open up the projector.





xrayg1971 said:


> yea f that ... get some sort of refund then just fix it yourself





jakechoy said:


> Have seen such situation before due to shipping knocks. If u can, try to use a HDMI connector to point in the direction of the misalgined port, and pivot it down. then the entire connection board should pop back down and be aligned. Might need a little force depending on how bad the knock was. Don't need t open it up.





GiantBubbleGuy said:


> That could reseat the connection board. I'd be concerned that a knock hard enough to knock it out of place would also have screwed up the optical alignment. That assumes it was a result of a knock during shipping and not a manufacturing issue. I'd probably ask for a replacement out of caution if it was mine.





MarviGito said:


> Did it at least turn on?


yes it does turn on but i never use use build in apps

anyway Jason was not very helpful. He asked for pictures of box, there was no damage on the outer or inner box ..so he said you have to get it repaired , and he will get back with more details, i also asked for some refund/discount/...still no response since then, he was also mentioning they dont have any left in US warehouse...so replacement is not an option here... i also found a little crack at bottom, right underneath the port section. That explains it. .. i guess one of the disadvantages of ordering overseas company. 
To me looks like who ever opened box to change language before shipping caused the damage.

update 2:
I decided to get it fix my self...and yes i had to scratch the void warranty sticker to do that..[at least i can get this thing to work]..and opening and closing the lid did the trick..ports are now where they suppose to be.. but another issue now i got is there is a very faded spot at bottom of screen and only visible when picture is white. Right now i dont have courage to open it again and clean the dirt particle [dont know even if its possible or we can touch lens ] and not ready for any new issue.
so far its working ..thats all i can say


----------



## m0j0

t333 said:


> yes it does turn on but i never use use build in apps
> 
> anyway Jason was not very helpful. He asked for pictures of box, there was no damage on the outer or inner box ..so he said you have to get it repaired , and he will get back with more details, i also asked for some refund/discount/...still no response since then, he was also mentioning they dont have any left in US warehouse...so replacement is not an option here... i also found a little crack at bottom, right underneath the port section. That explains it. .. i guess one of the disadvantages of ordering overseas company.
> To me looks like who ever opened box to change language before shipping caused the damage.
> 
> update 2:
> I decided to get it fix my self...and yes i had to scratch the void warranty sticker to do that..[at least i can get this thing to work]..and opening and closing the lid did the trick..ports are now where they suppose to be.. but another issue now i got is there is a very faded spot at bottom of screen and only visible when picture is white. Right now i dont have courage to open it again and clean the dirt particle [dont know even if its possible or we can touch lens ] and not ready for any new issue.
> so far its working ..thats all i can say


Get a can of compressed air and spray the glass with it to see if it helps clear things up.


----------



## Wookiebrewer

Hi Guys 
Sorry I know this will have been asked somewhere in the forum but have looked thru and can not find an answer. Have just got my T1 set it up and the firmware is 1.4.6.1938
I see people talking about firmware 2.0 was this a beta firmware and not available as yet?


----------



## oryschak

Wookiebrewer said:


> Sorry I know this will have been asked somewhere in the forum but have looked thru and can not find an answer. Have just got my T1 set it up and the firmware is 1.4.6.1938
> I see people talking about firmware 2.0 was this a beta firmware and not available as yet?


Correct - you need to enroll into the beta to get updates beyond .1938. I stayed off the beta list because I'm nervous about bricking a unit with no real warranty - excited to see the new version though!


----------



## ba_crane

Is anyone getting a picture similar to the screenshots posted by m0j0? His images are almost hard to believe and I don’t recall seeing other T1 owners posting pictures of their setup. I’m hopeful other T1 owners are getting something similar as I’m aggressively considering buying this projector and would like to hear feedback from other owners. If his pictures are one-offs or not to be expected, I’d prefer to know that before I drop $4,000 on a new projector and screen.


----------



## rooterha

Mine looks just like m0j0's. The hardest part with this is most of us aren't photographers and getting the picture to look right isn't super easy. I'd post more photos if I was any good at it.


----------



## ba_crane

rooterha said:


> Mine looks just like m0j0's. The hardest part with this is most of us aren't photographers and getting the picture to look right isn't super easy. I'd post more photos if I was any good at it.


That’s fantastic to hear. His pictures look beautiful. I’m very hopeful it looks the same in person as these posted pictures. I’m currently using an Epson 5040 and given its price I’m happy with the picture, but I need an AT screen to create space for my speakers and subs. I know no one knows what this or any UST will look like on AT screen but I plan to go with the Elite Screen A8K which should have a smooth surface and low gain, so if I can bet on it looking close to these images then I think it’s worth taking the chance.


----------



## t333

m0j0 said:


> Get a can of compressed air and spray the glass with it to see if it helps clear things up.


@m0j0 you mean from outside? I tried with cleaning cloth but that didn't helped much.
By the way do u have any picture settings without the vertex2.?


----------



## zaselim

So guys what I told you about getting blue tint on the left and right part of the screen, i was wrong about. Its actually the centre part that has a slight redish tint. I watched some content with a lot of white buildings or clouds and other stuff with whitish or very light color in it. And left/right part of the screen shows the accurate color, its the centre part that show a slight hint of red. Skin tones look fine thankfully. I watched some 4k hdr videos on YouTube and they look great as well. Since i dont have any DV media device so i cant test DV to see how it looks. If i play a DV video from YouTube app installed on T1's then will it display DV colors?


----------



## rjyap

ba_crane said:


> That’s fantastic to hear. His pictures look beautiful. I’m very hopeful it looks the same in person as these posted pictures. I’m currently using an Epson 5040 and given its price I’m happy with the picture, but I need an AT screen to create space for my speakers and subs. I know no one knows what this or any UST will look like on AT screen but I plan to go with the Elite Screen A8K which should have a smooth surface and low gain, so if I can bet on it looking close to these images then I think it’s worth taking the chance.


No it wouldn't look the same as the photo. In fact it look better as the color is more pop. The color have been water down but contrast is as what you see.


----------



## ProFragger

m0j0 said:


> Well, this projector is used for my kids 95% of the time, so there's that... Maybe when NFL season comes around I will take some pics of sports.


Mark me down for those football pictures man! Haha! Great stuff m0j0!


----------



## ProFragger

Guys - Supply chain issues aside, is there a "best time" in a year to buy these Chinese products like T1 and the XY Screens in terms of pricing? I'm thinking similar to Black Friday or Super Bowl TV sales? 

Sorry if this is an ignorant question, but I have never owned a projector, let alone one from overseas e-commerce sites 😊! 

Thanks!


----------



## jorgemurillo2012

ProFragger said:


> Mark me down for those football pictures man! Haha! Great stuff m0j0!


Same here or some basketball games or baseball since Baseball season is back


----------



## JereyWolf

rjyap said:


> No it wouldn't look the same as the photo. In fact it look better as the color is more pop. The color have been water down but contrast is as what you see.


I have seen this same subtle effect with 3 different USTs, Samsung LSP9T, Hisense PX1-Pro and the T1. The effect has been small enough for me to never be really concerned about it and I just attributed it to less than 100% image uniformity. I can definitely see it on a white/gray screen but not much on any real content.


----------



## JereyWolf

ba_crane said:


> Is anyone getting a picture similar to the screenshots posted by m0j0? His images are almost hard to believe and I don’t recall seeing other T1 owners posting pictures of their setup. I’m hopeful other T1 owners are getting something similar as I’m aggressively considering buying this projector and would like to hear feedback from other owners. If his pictures are one-offs or not to be expected, I’d prefer to know that before I drop $4,000 on a new projector and screen.


Here's a few random photos I took with *Firmware 1.4.6.1938. *
These photos are close to how it looks in person, but they are less sharp and contrast looks better in person.
The first photo is a pretty good example of daylight performance on my 0.4 gain screen.
Even on the older firmware, SDR images are great. You should absolutely go for this projector.

Also, check out this photo set where I put the T1 next to the Hisense Px1-pro to see the difference in black under identical lighting / camera conditions. 





FENGMI T1 - HISENSE PX1-PRO - Google Drive







drive.google.com


----------



## m0j0

Did some more testing and came up with another calibrated setting for night time viewing that uses brightness of View mode. I thought it added a bit more warmth to skin tones and also was a good balance of bright but not too bright and good black levels for night time viewing. I tested mainly with Dune and I really liked how the sand and skin tones looked with this setting. It felt much more accurate and natural. I added this to my calibration post as well.


----------



## azar777

good afternoon, tell me I can 't decide on the choice of a projector, I choose between fengmi t1 Samsung LSP9T they say that after the new t1 firmware, the question is very good if it makes sense to overpay for Samsung LSP9T, who will have a better picture ?


----------



## ACE844

@JereyWolf which player are you using in your photos, VLC, Kodi, or?


----------



## JereyWolf

azar777 said:


> good afternoon, tell me I can 't decide on the choice of a projector, I choose between fengmi t1 Samsung LSP9T they say that after the new t1 firmware, the question is very good if it makes sense to overpay for Samsung LSP9T, who will have a better picture ?


I had the LSP9T and used it daily for more than a year. 
The T1 is better in almost every way.


----------



## JereyWolf

ACE844 said:


> @JereyWolf which player are you using in your photos, VLC, Kodi, or?


First image is YouTube (probably 1080p)
Second - Kodi 17.6 and MadVR on PC.
Third - PC game, Tiny Tina's Wonderlands


----------



## azar777

azar777 said:


> good afternoon, tell me I can 't decide on the choice of a projector, I choose between fengmi t1 Samsung LSP9T they say that after the new t1 firmware, the question is very good if it makes sense to overpay for Samsung LSP9T, who will have a better picture ?


thank you


----------



## azar777

tell me fengmi t1 150 inches will open well?


----------



## azar777

is the firmware new on t1 out?


----------



## azar777

is the firmware new on t1 out?


----------



## ba_crane

JereyWolf said:


> Here's a few random photos I took with *Firmware 1.4.6.1938. *
> These photos are close to how it looks in person, but they are less sharp and contrast looks better in person.
> The first photo is a pretty good example of daylight performance on my 0.4 gain screen.
> Even on the older firmware, SDR images are great. You should absolutely go for this projector.
> 
> Also, check out this photo set where I put the T1 next to the Hisense Px1-pro to see the difference in black under identical lighting / camera conditions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FENGMI T1 - HISENSE PX1-PRO - Google Drive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> drive.google.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263646
> 
> View attachment 3263645
> 
> View attachment 3263644


Those look great. 

The T1 clearly beats the hisense. 

I’m slightly confused on firmware update. There is a beta version giving better image, but it’s no longer available? If I buy now would I be waiting until they release the new update since I wouldn’t be a beta tester? 

I’m quite interested, just not sure if I should buy now or wait till the international version becomes available with the new firmware on it. Any eta or timeline out there on when international version or newest firmware would be released? Any point in waiting for international version, does it change anything? I thought it meant a US based company would offer for sale, perhaps not.


----------



## azar777

does fengmi not have a new model coming out? I just want to buy a t1, it will be a shame if I buy it and a new model will be released immediately


----------



## xrayg1971

azar777 said:


> does fengmi not have a new model coming out? I just want to buy a t1, it will be a shame if I buy it and a new model will be released immediately


the other one they have is the 4k but that has less ansi lumens and no dolby vision support ... id say t1 is the best


----------



## JereyWolf

ba_crane said:


> Those look great.
> 
> The T1 clearly beats the hisense.
> 
> I’m slightly confused on firmware update. There is a beta version giving better image, but it’s no longer available? If I buy now would I be waiting until they release the new update since I wouldn’t be a beta tester?
> 
> I’m quite interested, just not sure if I should buy now or wait till the international version becomes available with the new firmware on it. Any eta or timeline out there on when international version or newest firmware would be released? Any point in waiting for international version, does it change anything? I thought it meant a US based company would offer for sale, perhaps not.


Right, it doesn't seem that access to beta firmware is freely being handed out anymore (I've asked for it multiple times). I would not be too concerned about the timeline for the update because, we know that there is a working version on the way and the projector is fine without it, just not optimized. The latest news a few of us have received is "by the end of April".

@ProjectionHead may have some news on availability of the T1 Global version, which would be the way to go if you want US based customer support and shipping, along with out of the box English OS.
I don't believe that anyone has confirmed the software changes on the global version yet.


----------



## gen_x

xrayg1971 said:


> the other one they have is the 4k but that has less ansi lumens and no dolby vision support ... id say t1 is the best


Another one that may be worth looking into is the Xiaomi C2. Dont have it yet but looked like a good option. There is a chat on here somewhere.


----------



## m0j0

Here's some sports pictures. The Bucs pictures are from OTA DVR recordings I have on my Plex server, so either 720p or 1080p (not sure which).



















Here's a clip from some video I found on youtube:


----------



## mas2k

gen_x said:


> Another one that may be worth looking into is the Xiaomi C2. Dont have it yet but looked like a good option. There is a chat on here somewhere.


Xiaomi Laser Cinema 2








Xiaomi Laser Cinema 2


Test Xiaomi laser Cinéma 2 : l’avis de Grégory. – – Le Blog de PHC – (passionhomecinema.fr) It seems that Xiaomi will release in November the second version of its very successful ust model with an all glass lens, 3d and Frame Interpolation.




r.tapatalk.com


----------



## gen_x

mas2k said:


> Xiaomi Laser Cinema 2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Xiaomi Laser Cinema 2
> 
> 
> Test Xiaomi laser Cinéma 2 : l’avis de Grégory. – – Le Blog de PHC – (passionhomecinema.fr) It seems that Xiaomi will release in November the second version of its very successful ust model with an all glass lens, 3d and Frame Interpolation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> r.tapatalk.com


Would be great to see a side by side Xiaomi C2 vs Fengmi T1 with v2 firmware. Based on the review after calibration they have similar lumens.


----------



## xrayg1971

gen_x said:


> Another one that may be worth looking into is the Xiaomi C2. Dont have it yet but looked like a good option. There is a chat on here somewhere.


problem with this is that its a red and blue laser ... not red blue green .... means it has a color wheel ... for that you mine as well get the one with one laser .. i have nto read good reviews on the dual laser setup ... id always go 3 laser if possible ..


----------



## 3sprit

C2 = Less color space but zero speckles


----------



## azar777

guys tell me t1 is not much worse than samsung lsp9t? just can't choose? is it worth paying more money?


----------



## azar777

they just write that after the new firmware t1 it is very cool


----------



## xrayg1971

azar777 said:


> guys tell me t1 is not much worse than samsung lsp9t? just can't choose? is it worth paying more money?


if you have the money the samsung is better just for support / service/ warrantee ... and for those in USA also ... but for 1/2 price t1 is the go to ..


----------



## ProjectionHead

JereyWolf said:


> @ProjectionHead may have some news on availability of the T1 Global version, which would be the way to go if you want US based customer support and shipping, along with out of the box English OS.
> I don't believe that anyone has confirmed the software changes on the global version yet.


Nothing that I am allowed to share yet. You can expect me to post in this thread once allowed.


----------



## azar777

tell me if the picture on t1 will be no worse than that of Samsung lsp9t?


----------



## rooterha

azar777 said:


> does fengmi not have a new model coming out? I just want to buy a t1, it will be a shame if I buy it and a new model will be released immediately


They are releasing the international edition of the T1 next month, so seems like they are bought in to it for awhile.


----------



## JereyWolf

xrayg1971 said:


> if you have the money the samsung is better just for support / service/ warrantee ... and for those in USA also ... but for 1/2 price t1 is the go to ..


I went back and forth with Samsung for 3 months on my LSP9T and had to send back to the same service center 3 times. They sent it back to me twice in non-functional condition, once with missing screws, lost my original box, sent it back without the remote and never fixed the original issue I sent it in for...it was a real hassle, especially since this is my TV replacement and the whole household relies on it. I don't believe Samsung's warranty support is any better than the support I have seen people post about on this thread from the Chinese companies.


----------



## xrayg1971

ProjectionHead said:


> Nothing that I am allowed to share yet. You can expect me to post in this thread once allowed.


damm maybe i should have waited a while before buying


----------



## xrayg1971

JereyWolf said:


> I went back and forth with Samsung for 3 months on my LSP9T and had to send back to the same service center 3 times. They sent it back to me twice in non-functional condition, once with missing screws, lost my original box, sent it back without the remote and never fixed the original issue I sent it in for...it was a real hassle, especially since this is my TV replacement and the whole household relies on it. I don't believe Samsung's warranty support is any better than the support I have seen people post about on this thread from the Chinese companies.





JereyWolf said:


> I went back and forth with Samsung for 3 months on my LSP9T and had to send back to the same service center 3 times. They sent it back to me twice in non-functional condition, once with missing screws, lost my original box, sent it back without the remote and never fixed the original issue I sent it in for...it was a real hassle, especially since this is my TV replacement and the whole household relies on it. I don't believe Samsung's warranty support is any better than the support I have seen people post about on this thread from the Chinese companies.


thats not a good look for samsung but see at least you were able to do that .. , if we have that issue with the t1 then we are screwed ..


----------



## m0j0

xrayg1971 said:


> damm maybe i should have waited a while before buying


I wouldn't think so. The International version is going to be much more costly.


----------



## donw

xrayg1971 said:


> thats not a good look for samsung but see at least you were able to do that .. , if we have that issue with the t1 then we are screwed ..


Not necessarily true. My T1 had a blur issue, so I had to send it back. The seller provided a USA address and reimbursed the $30 to ship it back. I'm still waiting on the new projector, however, because of a recent pandemic outbreak in Hong Kong. I have a DHL tracking number, though. The seller is obligated to support the product and shipping for the 1st year of warranty. For the remaining 2 years of warranty, we would be on the hook for shipping back to China.


----------



## ba_crane

m0j0 said:


> I wouldn't think so. The International version is going to be much more costly.


So if you were to do it all over again and buy new, would you buy from China now or wait for a US retailer to sell the international version?


----------



## humax

xrayg1971 said:


> thats not a good look for samsung but see at least you were able to do that .. , if we have that issue with the t1 then we are screwed ..



In practice, if you receive a DOA or your unit breaks down it will be replaced one way or another, even if you have to wait for it to be sent from China. Basically, you want a Chinese model to last for a couple of years. At the rate these units are coming out, you will be wanting to upgrade long before that. Xiaomi is releasing a new model after the C2 next month. Fengmi C2, which was a top buy a few months back is already obsolete without DV. At some point, I suppose there will be a T2 coming out. I also see 8K pixel-shifting happening in a couple of years. One big plus for US buyers is no import tax for these, which is not the case in Europe.


----------



## m0j0

ba_crane said:


> So if you were to do it all over again and buy new, would you buy from China now or wait for a US retailer to sell the international version?


That depends on the price. If the price were within 500-600, I would probably wait and buy the International version. I don't know whether that is going to be the case though.


----------



## ba_crane

m0j0 said:


> That depends on the price. If the price were within 500-600, I would probably wait and buy the International version. I don't know whether that is going to be the case though.


Wow, you think international version could be over $3,000, that would be tough to weigh that out.


----------



## JackB

m0j0 said:


> That depends on the price. If the price were within 500-600, I would probably wait and buy the International version. I don't know whether that is going to be the case though.


I suspect that the Hisense PX1, the LG 715, and the BenQ 7050 would be good measuring sticks. I think these are priced from $2,900 to $3,500.


----------



## m0j0

Ok, need some opinions here. I have calibrated settings for night time viewing with office brightness pictures from the other night, and then last night calibrated settings for night time viewing with view brightness. I can't tell which is better. What do you think? Keep in mind, my camera has some problems with blue, so a lot of times you will see more blue in the picture than I see on the screen.

Office calibrated on top and View calibrated on bottom:


----------



## ba_crane

for most I prefer the View calibration


----------



## zaselim

m0j0 said:


> Here's some sports pictures. The Bucs pictures are from OTA DVR recordings I have on my Plex server, so either 720p or 1080p (not sure which).
> 
> View attachment 3263783
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263784
> 
> 
> Here's a clip from some video I found on youtube:
> 
> View attachment 3263789


Are you taking pictures with the professional camera, my phone has a pretty good camera but i cant take clear pictures. There always yellow and purplish horizontal lines on my camera screen and they appear on the picture as well when i take it.
I have a slight red tint in the middle of the screen and formovie asking me for a proof. And i cant seem to take the pictures, i sent them the pictures of totally greyed background and a white background but they askesd me to provide pictures of the movies or any other content. But when i take picture of them the red tint doesnt show because of the yellow and purple horizonal lines on the pictures because of the camera lens. 
Any tips on how can i take a proper picture? 7


----------



## m0j0

zaselim said:


> Are you taking pictures with the professional camera, my phone has a pretty good camera but i cant take clear pictures. There always yellow and purplish horizontal line on my camera screen and they appear on the picture as well when i take it.


No, just an iPhone with the flash turned off.


----------



## zoomx2

@ m0j0,
Difficult to see what's the intent color in the movie. Maybe you can play a YouTube 4K HDR animals clips, then you know what's the best color and temperature for the calibration.


----------



## m0j0

zaselim said:


> Are you taking pictures with the professional camera, my phone has a pretty good camera but i cant take clear pictures. There always yellow and purplish horizontal lines on my camera screen and they appear on the picture as well when i take it.
> I have a slight red tint in the middle of the screen and formovie asking me for a proof. And i cant seem to take the pictures, i sent them the pictures of totally greyed background and a white background but they askesd me to provide pictures of the movies or any other content. But when i take picture of them the red tint doesnt show because of the yellow and purple horizonal lines on the pictures because of the camera lens.
> Any tips on how can i take a proper picture? 7


Try taking a video instead, and then if you need to, you can load that up on the computer and maybe take a few pictures from the movie frame, and see if that makes a difference.


----------



## m0j0

zoomx2 said:


> @ m0j0,
> Difficult to see what's the intent color in the movie. Maybe you can play a YouTube 4K HDR animals clips, then you know what's the best color and temperature for the calibration.


They both looked good in person. I feel like there was more shadow detail with office mode but also the blacks weren't as dark, and also I felt like the sand should have been more brownish and I didn't get that until using view mode, so not sure really. Guess I do need to try some more content and see how it goes.


----------



## wesleyrbk

Dumb question, but how can I confirm if HDR/DV is engaged?


----------



## m0j0

wesleyrbk said:


> Dumb question, but how can I confirm if HDR/DV is engaged?


If DV is engaged, you will lose picture controls and a Dolby Vision sign will show when you start the show/movie.


----------



## m0j0

zoomx2 said:


> @ m0j0,
> Difficult to see what's the intent color in the movie. Maybe you can play a YouTube 4K HDR animals clips, then you know what's the best color and temperature for the calibration.


I did go to the Dune website and look at the photo gallery. It seems view brightness is closer to the color palette of the movie, though my picture is brighter than in the still photo.


----------



## zaselim

m0j0 said:


> Try taking a video instead, and then if you need to, you can load that up on the computer and maybe take a few pictures from the movie frame, and see if that makes a difference.


Right, thanks.


----------



## Grazed

m0j0 said:


> Ok, need some opinions here. I have calibrated settings for night time viewing with office brightness pictures from the other night, and then last night calibrated settings for night time viewing with view brightness. I can't tell which is better. What do you think? Keep in mind, my camera has some problems with blue, so a lot of times you will see more blue in the picture than I see on the screen.


View looks better and more accurate from my testing after swapping between Night, View, and Office. At least in a light controlled environment which is what I watch in all of the time.


----------



## xrayg1971

m0j0 said:


> Ok, need some opinions here. I have calibrated settings for night time viewing with office brightness pictures from the other night, and then last night calibrated settings for night time viewing with view brightness. I can't tell which is better. What do you think? Keep in mind, my camera has some problems with blue, so a lot of times you will see more blue in the picture than I see on the screen.
> 
> Office calibrated on top and View calibrated on bottom:
> 
> View attachment 3263862
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263866
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263867
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263868
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263869
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263870
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263871
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263872
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263873
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263874
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263875
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263876
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263877
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263878
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263879
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263880
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263881
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263882
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263883
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263885


view def


----------



## xrayg1971

m0j0 said:


> I did go to the Dune website and look at the photo gallery. It seems view brightness is closer to the color palette of the movie, though my picture is brighter than in the still photo.
> 
> View attachment 3263919
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263920


need the calibrated numbers on the view side .. looks great


----------



## JereyWolf

zaselim said:


> Are you taking pictures with the professional camera, my phone has a pretty good camera but i cant take clear pictures. There always yellow and purplish horizontal lines on my camera screen and they appear on the picture as well when i take it.
> I have a slight red tint in the middle of the screen and formovie asking me for a proof. And i cant seem to take the pictures, i sent them the pictures of totally greyed background and a white background but they askesd me to provide pictures of the movies or any other content. But when i take picture of them the red tint doesnt show because of the yellow and purple horizonal lines on the pictures because of the camera lens.
> Any tips on how can i take a proper picture? 7


Reduce your shutter speed if your camera phone has that setting available...below a certain speed those lines will dissappear.


----------



## JereyWolf

m0j0 said:


> I did go to the Dune website and look at the photo gallery. It seems view brightness is closer to the color palette of the movie, though my picture is brighter than in the still photo.
> 
> View attachment 3263919
> 
> 
> View attachment 3263920


Yeah View is pretty close for color temp...but I'd say your T1 has slightly higher saturation (which looks better to me). Overall though, I think the way it looks so bright is because the gamma curve /EOTF (luminance response) is off....is this in LLDV with Vertex²?


----------



## wltam

Hey Guys!

Newbie here’s struggling with getting the T1 as nicely setup as all of you! I am specially looking at you here @m0j0! 😂

I bought a XYscreen and just installed it, along my T1 and struggle to get a nice and crisp image (see below). Hence, I am in desperate need of advice.

Is the order as follow correct?

1. Install screen+T1
2. Making sure image projects well in screen without using keystone.
3. Adjust sharpness in settings
4. Adjust colour settings.

If so, I still seem to fail to get a nice image


----------



## humax

wltam said:


> If so, I still seem to fail to get a nice image



What is your image source? Shield or else?


----------



## ProjectionHead

Guess who got a T1 that powered up today? THIS GUY!
Any suggestions on some good content for me to evaluate with the T1 next to the Samsung LSP9T & Hisense Px1-Pro/L9 in a side by side to really see how the T1 stacks up? 
I've got the Spears & Munsil UHD Benchmark disc here as well as Ready Player One (DV) ready to roll but can grab something else if there is an example that y'all think I NEED to see to become a convert.
Thanks!


----------



## wltam

humax said:


> What is your image source? Shield or else?


Yes! It’s a shield but even in the contrast settings I can’t get it as sharp as m0j0’s. 😂


----------



## m0j0

ProjectionHead said:


> Guess who got a T1 that powered up today? THIS GUY!
> Any suggestions on some good content for me to evaluate with the T1 next to the Samsung LSP9T & Hisense Px1-Pro/L9 in a side by side to really see how the T1 stacks up?
> I've got the Spears & Munsil UHD Benchmark disc here as well as Ready Player One (DV) ready to roll but can grab something else if there is an example that y'all think I NEED to see to become a convert.
> Thanks!


What version of the firmware do you have? Did they ship it to you with the latest or still 1.4?


----------



## ProjectionHead

m0j0 said:


> What version of the firmware do you have? Did they ship it to you with the latest or still 1.4?


I believe it is 1.4 but will have to check again on Monday.


----------



## m0j0

wltam said:


> Hey Guys!
> 
> Newbie here’s struggling with getting the T1 as nicely setup as all of you! I am specially looking at you here @m0j0! 😂
> 
> I bought a XYscreen and just installed it, along my T1 and struggle to get a nice and crisp image (see below). Hence, I am in desperate need of advice.
> 
> Is the order as follow correct?
> 
> 1. Install screen+T1
> 2. Making sure image projects well in screen without using keystone.
> 3. Adjust sharpness in settings
> 4. Adjust colour settings.
> 
> If so, I still seem to fail to get a nice image


I am on the latest version of the beta firmware. I believe they made some improvements to the focus to help get a sharper image. That being said, when you're in focus, hold down the left button for about 10-15 seconds until you are sure it's all the way left as far as it will go. Then go back between 1 and 3 clicks and see what looks best, both in the center as well as in each corner.

For color settings, check out my post on 187 and give those settings a try.


----------



## m0j0

ProjectionHead said:


> I believe it is 1.4 but will have to check again on Monday.


You probably want to avoid any DV content (and maybe even HDR) until you either hook up a Vertex2 and set it up as player led LLDV or until you can get access to version 2 of the firmware, as they made a lot of improvements with HDR and DV content. No telling when that will drop, but it's got to be pretty soon.


----------



## humax

wltam said:


> Yes! It’s a shield but even in the contrast settings I can’t get it as sharp as m0j0’s. 😂



Have you tried turning AI on or setting it to output everything in DV?


----------



## wltam

m0j0 said:


> I am on the latest version of the beta firmware. I believe they made some improvements to the focus to help get a sharper image. That being said, when you're in focus, hold down the left button for about 10-15 seconds until you are sure it's all the way left as far as it will go. Then go back between 1 and 3 clicks and see what looks best, both in the center as well as in each corner.
> 
> For color settings, check out my post on 187 and give those settings a try.


Thanks! My three corners seems to be good except for the top left… any tips on that? Or is that expected for a screen of 120 inch?


----------



## wltam

humax said:


> Have you tried turning AI on or setting it to output everything in DV?


AI is on! Shield can’t force DV though :S


----------



## m0j0

wltam said:


> Thanks! My three corners seems to be good except for the top left… any tips on that? Or is that expected for a screen of 120 inch?


I wouldn't worry about it for now. Just wait for the new firmware then see if you can dial it in a bit better.


----------



## ProjectionHead

m0j0 said:


> You probably want to avoid any DV content (and maybe even HDR) until you either hook up a Vertex2 and set it up as player led LLDV or until you can get access to version 2 of the firmware, as they made a lot of improvements with HDR and DV content. No telling when that will drop, but it's got to be pretty soon.


Thanks for the tip. What I'm trying to do is get the "typical user" experience with the T1 vs the other triple laser units. "Most" people (outside of AVS Forum) use these USTs as more simple plug & play devices and do not do nearly the amount of tweaking, measuring, etc that members here do.
I'll checkout both SDR & HDR on Monday but can skip over DV for now if that's what you suggest.
Thanks!


----------



## m0j0

JereyWolf said:


> Yeah View is pretty close for color temp...but I'd say your T1 has slightly higher saturation (which looks better to me). Overall though, I think the way it looks so bright is because the gamma curve /EOTF (luminance response) is off....is this in LLDV with Vertex²?


It is LLDV via the Vertex2, yes. I could always try to go a few nits lower on the Vertex2 to see if that makes any difference.


----------



## m0j0

ProjectionHead said:


> Thanks for the tip. What I'm trying to do is get the "typical user" experience with the T1 vs the other triple laser units. "Most" people (outside of AVS Forum) use these USTs as more simple plug & play devices and do not do nearly the amount of tweaking, measuring, etc that members here do.
> I'll checkout both SDR & HDR on Monday but can skip over DV for now if that's what you suggest.
> Thanks!


I hear you. Just think you probably want to spend a week with it first before you go throwing it into a shootout, especially since we know there are issues with the initial firmware that have been fixed but not yet available to all.


----------



## m0j0

xrayg1971 said:


> need the calibrated numbers on the view side .. looks great


Here you go (brightness mode set to View Mode):
This is for LLDV, didn't test yet with SDR or HDR without Vertex2 (but probably it's just a +2 bump for Tone like this one).


----------



## humax

ProjectionHead said:


> Any suggestions on some good content for me to evaluate with the T1 next to the Samsung LSP9T & Hisense Px1-Pro/L9 in a side by side to really see how the T1 stacks up?



IMHO, you could start with some dark content, which should also include black bars in order to see visual contrast differences. Secondly, I would use something colorful like Aladdin or Death on the Nile in order to establish differences in color rendition and whether the T1 is actually crippled by the lack of CMS in comparison to the other two units. Something like the following set up:

Wemax D30 vs Wemax A300 and Fengmi 4K Cinema Pro - YouTube


----------



## ProjectionHead

m0j0 said:


> I hear you. Just think you probably want to spend a week with it first before you go throwing it into a shootout, especially since we know there are issues with the initial firmware that have been fixed but not yet available to all.


I'm tossing it directly into the ring - sink or swim over here! 👊


----------



## m0j0

ProjectionHead said:


> I'm tossing it directly into the ring - sink or swim over here! 👊


No problem. I think Gregory did the same, but I expect he will do a revised review once the latest firmware is released.


----------



## m0j0

Here's a shot of the news from my OTA signal and a few shots from random shows on Netflix


----------



## imapfsr

I did a search but wasnt able to find the information I was looking for...anyone coming from an Epson 5050UB that can speak to a direct comparison. Right now my 505UB is set up exactly the way I like it and I dont have to speak to the quality of the picture. I am just wondering especially when looking at some of the screen shots here whether or not the UST and PQ is that much better than the 5050UB. I appreciate any feedback in advance.


----------



## m0j0

imapfsr said:


> I did a search but wasnt able to find the information I was looking for...anyone coming from an Epson 5050UB that can speak to a direct comparison. Right now my 505UB is set up exactly the way I like it and I dont have to speak to the quality of the picture. I am just wondering especially when looking at some of the screen shots here whether or not the UST and PQ is that much better than the 5050UB. I appreciate any feedback in advance.


Are you using a Vertex2 on your 5050UB?


----------



## 3sprit

ba_crane said:


> for most I prefer the View calibration


+1


----------



## humax

imapfsr said:


> whether or not the UST and PQ is that much better than the 5050UB. I appreciate any feedback in advance.



Lamp-based unit vs a tri-laser projector? Not a fair contest really, but I would consider the T1 a solid upgrade.


----------



## m0j0

Ok, going back for some more desert power! Here's some more pics from watching Dune last night...


----------



## ba_crane

imapfsr said:


> I did a search but wasnt able to find the information I was looking for...anyone coming from an Epson 5050UB that can speak to a direct comparison. Right now my 505UB is set up exactly the way I like it and I dont have to speak to the quality of the picture. I am just wondering especially when looking at some of the screen shots here whether or not the UST and PQ is that much better than the 5050UB. I appreciate any feedback in advance.


I have an Epson 5040 on a silver ticket 120” screen. I recently upgraded my audio equipment to JBL. Since I’ll be running tower 590s for LCR my current setup will not work. I’ll have to downsize to 106” screen and not wanting to give up that much size. I’ve been considering a transition to T1 with a quality AT screen so I can keep a 120” screen and fit my speakers and subs behind the screen. So I have same questions on image quality in comparison the Epson UB. Can’t help but feel I’ll be giving up contrast as the Epson does descent with black levels. Some of the pictures posted by m0j0 have been very encouraging, problem is there is no way to know until I buy and find out myself. M0j0 also has a Sony 695 and says while T1 is not as good, it’s pretty darn good in comparison. That leads me to believe it should be better than the 5040/5050. My biggest problem is I have to use an AT screen and unfortunately no one has any experience with that so I’m on my own in figuring out if this is going to be worth it.


----------



## rjyap

m0j0 said:


> Ok, need some opinions here. I have calibrated settings for night time viewing with office brightness pictures from the other night, and then last night calibrated settings for night time viewing with view brightness. I can't tell which is better. What do you think? Keep in mind, my camera has some problems with blue, so a lot of times you will see more blue in the picture than I see on the screen.
> 
> Office calibrated on top and View calibrated on bottom:


I prefer view color. Looks more natural to me for skin tone and also the rocks.


----------



## rjyap

ProjectionHead said:


> I'm tossing it directly into the ring - sink or swim over here! 👊


If you are on v1.4, then T1 wouldn't look good in DV (too reddish) and HDR mode (gamma out of whack). I only get great PQ out of it using madVR HDR to SDR. Might want to hold the review until getting v2.0 if the comparison is out of the box settings.


----------



## Pauljiang

ProFragger，帖子：61577765，成員：8469175 said:


> 伙計們——拋開供應鏈問題不談，就定價而言，一年中是否有購買 T1 和 XY 屏幕等中國產品的“最佳時機”？我在想類似於黑色星期五或超級碗電視銷售？
> 
> 對不起，如果這是一個無知的問題，但我從來沒有擁有過投影儀，更不用說海外電子商務網站的投影儀了😊！
> 
> 謝謝！


據我所知，購買中國產品的“最佳時間”是*6 月 18 日或 11 月 11 日， *但他們通常會舉辦促銷活動（促銷價格為 2455.59 歐元），所以建議您可以經常查看*。 *
下面的官方電子商務網站也供您參考。它還支持世界各地的交付。
由於您是從*官方電子商務*購買的，所以有任何問題都可以直接詢問*[email protected]*。我覺得比獨家代理好。
*https://item.jd.com/100030970876.html#none*


----------



## imapfsr

m0j0 said:


> Are you using a Vertex2 on your 5050UB?


No, just straight to the 5050Ub...is there that much difference when running a Vertex2 as that was my second consideration when looking at replacing my 5050. I guess my biggest concern besides contrast as I find the 5050 so hard to beat in contrast is whether or not the T1 is that much of an improvement over the Epson. Also, I was looking at the LS11000 but it doesn't have dynamic HDR and although I don't completely understand what it does it is or should be better than static...does the T1 have dynamic? Thanks again for any help in advance.


----------



## m0j0

imapfsr said:


> No, just straight to the 5050Ub...is there that much difference when running a Vertex2 as that was my second consideration when looking at replacing my 5050. I guess my biggest concern besides contrast as I find the 5050 so hard to beat in contrast is whether or not the T1 is that much of an improvement over the Epson. Also, I was looking at the LS11000 but it doesn't have dynamic HDR and although I don't completely understand what it does it is or should be better than static...does the T1 have dynamic? Thanks again for any help in advance.


If you haven't tried a Vertex2 on your 5050, I would try that first. I noticed a big improvement on my Sony 695 with it and others I have talked to in forums have felt the same (one of them has a 5040 and he is blown away by the improvement).


----------



## JereyWolf

ProjectionHead said:


> Guess who got a T1 that powered up today? THIS GUY!
> Any suggestions on some good content for me to evaluate with the T1 next to the Samsung LSP9T & Hisense Px1-Pro/L9 in a side by side to really see how the T1 stacks up?
> I've got the Spears & Munsil UHD Benchmark disc here as well as Ready Player One (DV) ready to roll but can grab something else if there is an example that y'all think I NEED to see to become a convert.
> Thanks!


Agree with @humax. Put it up next to any other UST with dark content and you should see the wow factor. Especially in something like a star field/ space scene.


----------



## jakechoy

xrayg1971 said:


> problem with this is that its a red and blue laser ... not red blue green .... means it has a color wheel ... for that you mine as well get the one with one laser .. i have nto read good reviews on the dual laser setup ... id always go 3 laser if possible ..


uhm...what kind of comment is that if you have not seen both in action. In the C2 thread, there's no major issues called out with the projector. Having tested both; the C2 does not need much tuning to get the full benefit of DV and HDR - dummy proof for most consumers. I've yet to see a negative review of the C2..can you point us to it?


----------



## jakechoy

JereyWolf said:


> Reduce your shutter speed if your camera phone has that setting available...below a certain speed those lines will dissappear.


in some phones, go to the camera settings and anti-banding set to 60Hz to sync with the projection


----------



## azar777

tell me what to buy fengmi t1 or Samsung lsp9t that in terms of video quality it is better to overpay for Samsung?


----------



## azar777

tell me what to buy fengmi t1 or Samsung lsp9t that in terms of video quality it is better to overpay for Samsung?


----------



## ProFragger

Pauljiang said:


> 據我所知，購買中國產品的“最佳時間”是*6 月 18 日或 11 月 11 日， *但他們通常會舉辦促銷活動（促銷價格為 2455.59 歐元），所以建議您可以經常查看*。 *
> 下面的官方電子商務網站也供您參考。它還支持世界各地的交付。
> 由於您是從*官方電子商務*購買的，所以有任何問題都可以直接詢問*[email protected]*。我覺得比獨家代理好。
> *https://item.jd.com/100030970876.html#none*


What? 🤔


----------



## ngcoolman

ProFragger said:


> What? 🤔


 The post said the big sale in China usually occurs on June 18 and Nov 11.


----------



## azar777

tell me which company has the best 150-inch screen for t1? and which alr or clr is needed ?


----------



## azar777

tell me which company has the best 150-inch screen for t1? and which alr or clr is needed ?


----------



## michiel.v.son

wrong message, please delete


----------



## michiel.v.son

abzorh said:


> Hi.
> If someone wanted T1 duty free in the EU. I can offer.
> I only project on the white wall and I will not use the full potential of T1.
> I have a DLP PX701-4K projector that is enough for my wall is enough.
> Please write a PM (conversation).


Hi, I can't send private messages yet, could you send me one. Might be interested!


----------



## zaselim

Is there an app or a way to see how many hours spent on the projector, like you do on a normal projector that shows lamp hours in the menu.


----------



## xrayg1971

jakechoy said:


> uhm...what kind of comment is that if you have not seen both in action. In the C2 thread, there's no major issues called out with the projector. Having tested both; the C2 does not need much tuning to get the full benefit of DV and HDR - dummy proof for most consumers. I've yet to see a negative review of the C2..can you point us to it?


NOT IN Avs .....just in general reviews ... and really just in general ... do you want a color wheel or not ... i dont ....another point of failure and more noise ... also are 2 lasers better than one ..hmmm the jury is out on that one .. personally 3 lasers is always the way to go ...


----------



## xrayg1971

azar777 said:


> tell me what to buy fengmi t1 or Samsung lsp9t that in terms of video quality it is better to overpay for Samsung?


if you have the money go samsung ( i would have actually gone hisense tri chroma if money was not object) ... if you want something good that is half the price then t1 ...


----------



## rooterha

xrayg1971 said:


> if you have the money go samsung ( i would have actually gone hisense tri chroma if money was not object) ... if you want something good that is half the price then t1 ...


T1 is better than the Hisense


----------



## Aztar35

xrayg1971 said:


> NOT IN Avs .....just in general reviews ... and really just in general ... *do you want a color wheel* or not ... i dont ....another point of failure and more noise ... also are 2 lasers better than one ..hmmm the jury is out on that one .. personally 3 lasers is always the way to go ...


Hi. I have the Xiaomi Laser C2. Numbers (EDITED), I measured the Laser C2 at 3,649:1 and it has zero speckle. It is very user-friendly with no DV or tone-mapping complications that I'm aware. The T1's contrast is similar and it has wider color.

My understanding is that the C2 is an RB+ multi-laser DLP that uses a green phosphor element, so no color wheel.

The issue I would have with a color wheel is not necessarily that it would produce rainbow effect because any single chip/single DMD display like these UST DLPs will have potential for that as each color must pass through the one chip. My issue with a color wheel would be that it's another moving part, and moving parts can wear and fail more rapidly over time. But again, I have no reason to believe the C2 has a color wheel. Can you point to the source that leads you to believe it does?


----------



## Ricoflashback

Aztar35 said:


> Hi. I have the Xiaomi Laser C2. Numbers show it has the best sequential contrast of any of the DLP USTs and zero speckle. It is very user-friendly with no DV or tone-mapping complications that I'm aware. The T1's contrast is similar and it has wider color.
> 
> My understanding is that the C2 is an RB+ multi-laser DLP that uses a green phosphor element, so no color wheel.
> 
> The issue I would have with a color wheel is not necessarily that it would produce rainbow effect because any single chip/single DMD display like these UST DLPs will have potential for that as each color must pass through the one chip. My issue with a color wheel would be that it's another moving part, and moving parts can wear and fail more rapidly over time. But again, I have no reason to believe the C2 has a color wheel. Can you point to the source that leads you to believe it does?


Would you rate the C2 over the T1 or vice-versa? For a moment, there, I thought that Azar777 was your cousin.


----------



## humax

Aztar35 said:


> Numbers show it has the best sequential contrast of any of the DLP USTs and zero speckle



According to Gregory:

Xiaomi 1S: 3521:1

Fengmi C2: 3479:1

Xiaomi C2 : 3204:1

Fengmi T1: 2975:1

I suppose the lower the calibrated brightness, the higher the contrast ratio of the ALPD module.


----------



## zoomx2

Ricoflashback said:


> Would you rate the C2 over the T1 or vice-versa? For a moment, there, I thought that Azar777 was your cousin.


After almost 4000 posts ppl still asking for comparison?


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

humax said:


> Xiaomi is releasing a new model after the C2 next month.


@humax… are you basing this on their cadence of releases so far or has there been an official announcement that a new Xiaomi model is coming soon? Given how quickly Fengmi and Xiaomi are iterating, it’s not surprising.


----------



## ProjectEF

zoomx2 said:


> After almost 4000 posts ppl still asking for comparison?


People are just jumping to page 190


----------



## azar777

tell me which company has the best 150-inch screen for t1? and which alr or clr is needed ?


----------



## Aztar35

humax said:


> According to Gregory:
> 
> Xiaomi 1S: 3521:1
> 
> Fengmi C2: 3479:1
> 
> Xiaomi C2 : 3204:1
> 
> Fengmi T1: 2975:1
> 
> I suppose the lower the calibrated brightness, the higher the contrast ratio of the ALPD module.


Yes, but my point was on the numbers and my Laser C2 sample measured 3649:1. But you make a good point because it left me with the afterthought that I haven't measured the 1S and Fengmi C2 on my equipment in my space.


----------



## jakechoy

xrayg1971 said:


> NOT IN Avs .....just in general reviews ... and really just in general ... do you want a color wheel or not ... i dont ....another point of failure and more noise ... also are 2 lasers better than one ..hmmm the jury is out on that one .. personally 3 lasers is always the way to go ...


again - I didn't ask for AVS forum reference. am just asking where are the other general reviews of the XM Laser C2 that said it has dual laser + color wheel and have issues? That would be helpful for others rather than just slamming a very well-sorted DV UST projector for the masses.

And have u seen the U2 3 laser projector? that UST has sparkle issues like the LG etc. It almost made me convinced that 3 lasers were a no-go until I tested the T1 in person. 

Passing armchair comments like that is really not helpful vs focusing on specific models in questions. just my 0.02.


----------



## Aztar35

Ricoflashback said:


> Would you rate the C2 over the T1 or vice-versa?


I haven't seen the T1, but going by the fact that the person who sold me the C2 kept his T1, my guess is he preferred the T1.



Ricoflashback said:


> For a moment, there, I thought that Azar777 was your cousin.


What?


----------



## Aztar35

jakechoy said:


> again - I didn't ask for AVS forum reference. am just asking where are the other general reviews of the XM Laser C2 that said it has dual laser + color wheel and have issues? That would be helpful for others rather than just slamming a very well-sorted DV UST projector for the masses.
> 
> And have u seen the U2 3 laser projector? that UST has sparkle issues like the LG etc. It almost made me convinced that 3 lasers were a no-go until I tested the T1 in person.
> 
> Passing armchair comments like that is really not helpful vs focusing on specific models in questions. just my 0.02.


He might have thought it had a color wheel, which is a moving part that can in fact be loud and be subject to more wear and tear.

My point in my post response to that was that the Laser C2 has aspects that are superior to the T1, like no speckle, slightly better sequential contrast, and fairly straight-forward DV, whereas the T1 likewise has superior aspects too.

The point in that post about contrast numbers was really ancillary but since it's information nonetheless, I will clarify that my 3,649:1 measurement came in higher than other reported measurements for UST DLPs. I used an i1dis3 glass meter and measured off the lens. For comparison, using the same meter and method, there have been some of the other UST machines I've measured that were under a 1,000:1, meaning 9xx:1. These numbers for the Fengmi T1 and Laser C2 are incredible given the DLP platform. And I can't help being reminded, for example, that even the mighty c. $25,000USD Lcos UST Sony VZ1000ES' contrast ratio with Dynamic Control turned off, Sound and Vision measured the Sony to be 1,619:1. With dynamic, S&V measured 4,100:1 on that one. Source See: Sony VPL-VZ1000ES SXRD 4K Ultra-Short-Throw Projector Review Test Bench | Sound & Vision (soundandvision.com)


----------



## humax

Scott Rosenberg said:


> @humax… are you basing this on their cadence of releases so far or has there been an official announcement that a new Xiaomi model is coming soon? Given how quickly Fengmi and Xiaomi are iterating, it’s not surprising.



[newest version]xiaomi full color laser projector 1400 lumens lcos 1080p ultra short throw triple laser projector bt 5.0 miui tv Sale - Banggood.com


I am talking about this one. No big secret here and it is coming out next month. RGB LCoS laser, 3d, accepts 4k hdr10 input and it is 800$/1000 Euros cheaper than the T1.


----------



## Aztar35

humax said:


> [newest version]xiaomi full color laser projector 1400 lumens lcos 1080p ultra short throw triple laser projector bt 5.0 miui tv Sale - Banggood.com
> 
> 
> I am talking about this one. No big secret here and it is coming out next month. RGB LCoS laser, 3d, accepts 4k hdr10 input and it is 800$/1000 Euros cheaper than the T1.


Any information on whether it's three chips or single chip?


----------



## m0j0

A few pics


----------



## jakechoy

Aztar35 said:


> Any information on whether it's three chips or single chip?


better to discuss it at its own thread









Xiaomi announces the Full Color Laser Cinema projector...


Samsung, LG, etc… are white 😎 P.S. https://www.avsforum.com/threads/ust-screenshot-eye-candy-thread.3240703/post-61552107




www.avsforum.com


----------



## ba_crane

m0j0 said:


> A few pics
> 
> View attachment 3264162
> 
> 
> View attachment 3264163
> 
> 
> View attachment 3264164
> 
> 
> View attachment 3264165
> 
> 
> View attachment 3264166
> 
> 
> View attachment 3264167
> 
> 
> View attachment 3264168
> 
> 
> View attachment 3264169
> 
> 
> View attachment 3264170
> 
> 
> View attachment 3264173
> 
> 
> View attachment 3264174
> 
> 
> View attachment 3264175


What’s going on the the horizontal black bars at top and bottom, they look warped?


----------



## humax

Aztar35 said:


> Yes, but my point was on the numbers and my Laser C2 sample measured 3649:1. But you make a good point because it left me with the afterthought that I haven't measured the 1S and Fengmi C2 on my equipment in my space.



Yes, I have also seen your measurement, but I did not know if you have used Gregory's settings for a rudimentary calibration.


----------



## humax

Aztar35 said:


> Any information on whether it's three chips or single chip?



Check this out: 5900ppi full HD 0.37” LCoS micro-display measures 23.4x8.65mm - Electronics-Lab.com


----------



## m0j0

ba_crane said:


> What’s going on the the horizontal black bars at top and bottom, they look warped?


They are not warped. Sometimes I tilt my phone or angle it the wrong way or something and it's not a square box. I crop off the sides but you see the curved top and bottom bars.


----------



## donw

humax said:


> [newest version]xiaomi full color laser projector 1400 lumens lcos 1080p ultra short throw triple laser projector bt 5.0 miui tv Sale - Banggood.com
> 
> 
> I am talking about this one. No big secret here and it is coming out next month. RGB LCoS laser, 3d, accepts 4k hdr10 input and it is 800$/1000 Euros cheaper than the T1.


But why would anyone want a 1080p UST projector?


----------



## humax

Aztar35 said:


> I haven't measured the 1S and Fengmi C2 on my equipment in my space.


Xiaomi 1S: 2000 ANSI Lumens

Fengmi C2: 2200 ΑNSi Lumens

Xiaomi C2: 2400 ANSI Lumens

Fengmi T1: 2800 Αnsi Lumens


1S has no Frame Interpolation. Fengmi C2 has it, but no DV.


----------



## humax

donw said:


> But why would anyone want a 1080p UST projector?



1. The price is right. 4K would cost double the money.

2. RGB Laser LCoS for silky smooth image.

3. It has the potential for better contrast than ALPD.

4. Very sharp 1080p HDR through 4K-downscaling. 

5. Only thing missing is DV and the pixel-shifting process really and that is not native 4k anyway.


----------



## DeanM3

I am very sensitive to RBE and the T1 is such a massive improvement over the ALPD 3.0 units that it’s worth it alone for me. For those that have sensitivity to RBE the T1 is the only option out of these Chinese ALPD units in my opinion.


----------



## humax

@ DeanM3. 

Have you found a way to connect an external subwoofer to the T1 by now? I know you have asked their support team for it via firmware update, but just in case they do not come through, do you think something like this would work? I suppose it has to be able to pass through DV as well and such extractors are not cheap.

SHARC-V2 8k eARC Audio Processor (thenaudio.com)


Also, has anyone ordered the 2.1 Fengmi complementary surround system in order to comment on its sound quality?


----------



## zaselim

So i just have notice something on my ps4 pro, playing the last of us part 2, that when i turned off hdr (ingame settings) the game looks more vibrant and detailed compared to when hdr is on. Isn't it suppose to do the opposite? 
Do i need to change T1 settings for that or there is something wrong or unbalancing problem with game's settings?


----------



## m0j0

zaselim said:


> So i just have notice something on my ps4 pro, playing the last of us part 2, that when i turned off hdr (ingame settings) the game looks more vibrant and detailed compared to when hdr is on. Isn't it suppose to do the opposite?
> Do i need to change T1 settings for that or there is something wrong or unbalancing problem with game's settings?


Are you running 1.4 firmware? If so, then 4k SDR is probably going to look better until you upgrade to version 2 or connect something like a Vertex2 for LLDV tone mapping.


----------



## zaselim

m0j0 said:


> Are you running 1.4 firmware? If so, then 4k SDR is probably going to look better until you upgrade to version 2 or connect something like a Vertex2 for LLDV tone mapping.


No, 2.0.0.2079.


----------



## m0j0

Here's some daytime photos of a PBS Kids show my kids were watching around lunchtime today.


----------



## m0j0

zaselim said:


> No, 2.0.0.2079.


Ok, good to know. Thanks.


----------



## zaselim

m0j0 said:


> Ok, good to know. Thanks.


So what do you think might be the cause?


----------



## m0j0

zaselim said:


> So what do you think might be the cause?


I don't really use the native HDR since I have a Vertex2 and send everything LLDV. Maybe it still needs improvement. I would send an email to [email protected] and report your experience.


----------



## zaselim

m0j0 said:


> I don't really use the native HDR since I have a Vertex2 and send everything LLDV. Maybe it still needs improvement. I would send an email to [email protected] and report your experience.


Yes please do, Thanks.


----------



## azar777

tell me which company has the best 150-inch screen for t1? and which alr or clr is needed ?


----------



## 3sprit

What I see on the lighter parts of the images: is this the "speckle" of the T1?🤔


----------



## m0j0

3sprit said:


> What I see on the lighter parts of the images: is this the "speckle" of the T1?🤔
> View attachment 3264264
> View attachment 3264265


No, it is not speckle, it is just the content.


----------



## chrisdu46

Good evening,
I've owned the T1 for almost 2 months and today I just noticed a dead pixel...I'm disgusted. I bought my T1 on Banggood and I don't think I can claim the warranty for a single white dot/dead pixel. What do you think ?


----------



## Sunbox2408

humax said:


> @ DeanM3.
> 
> Have you found a way to connect an external subwoofer to the T1 by now? I know you have asked their support team for it via firmware update, but just in case they do not come through, do you think something like this would work? I suppose it has to be able to pass through DV as well and such extractors are not cheap.
> 
> SHARC-V2 8k eARC Audio Processor (thenaudio.com)
> 
> 
> Also, has anyone ordered the 2.1 Fengmi complementary surround system in order to comment on its sound quality?


Following this as I have the same questions still. After I googled around it does looks like it will solve the problem.
Is this similar or an alternative to hd fury arcana or are they two different devices?


----------



## Aztar35

humax said:


> Yes, I have also seen your measurement, but I did not know if you have used Gregory's settings for a rudimentary calibration.


Yes, mine came calibrated with those settings from the fellow who sold it here. With those settings, if I recall correctly, I happened to measure. I measured off the screen but now I'm not sure if it was also off the lens from a distance too. But this was the first native measurement I took:











The projector on my screen, in my room, had a bit of a red push. Then I tried to brightness match the white value of other projectors I measured, tweaked the C2 further, and brought the meter closer. And then off the lens, I got the 3,649:1 measurement. By the way, after my calibration, skin tones looked better --in my set up-- too.


----------



## Aztar35

m0j0 said:


> A few pics



Those look really good and you said skin tones look natural when I asked because it's difficult to judge color on my monitor.

Anyway, I couldn't figure out why Yennifer was able to undergo that transformation when the head mage really wasn't respecting her. That part of the show went over my head or maybe I expected more development there...like why did that artist accept to change Yennifer? It moved fast. Any thoughts on this would help since you seem to have a good grasp of the show, judging by how far you've watched from your pics.


----------



## m0j0

chrisdu46 said:


> Good evening,
> I've owned the T1 for almost 2 months and today I just noticed a dead pixel...I'm disgusted. I bought my T1 on Banggood and I don't think I can claim the warranty for a single white dot/dead pixel. What do you think ?


I don't know. You can try.


----------



## m0j0

Aztar35 said:


> Those look really good and you said skin tones look natural when I asked because it's difficult to judge color on my monitor.
> 
> Anyway, I couldn't figure out why Yennifer was able to undergo that transformation when the head mage really wasn't respecting her. That part of the show went over my head or maybe I expected more development there...like why did that artist accept to change Yennifer? It moved fast. Any thoughts on this would help since you seem to have a good grasp of the show, judging by how far you've watched from your pics.


I haven't watched Season 1 for awhile now, so don't really remember the ins and out of it.


----------



## Aztar35

m0j0 said:


> I haven't watched Season 1 for awhile now, so don't really remember the ins and out of it.


The fact that you have the T1 aside, is season 2 better?


----------



## m0j0

Aztar35 said:


> The fact that you have the T1 aside, is season 2 better?


Oh yeah, no doubt!


----------



## humax

chrisdu46 said:


> Good evening,
> I've owned the T1 for almost 2 months and today I just noticed a dead pixel...I'm disgusted. I bought my T1 on Banggood and I don't think I can claim the warranty for a single white dot/dead pixel. What do you think ?



I understand how you feel, but one dead pixel is not the end of the world. 6-7 of them, certainly yes. However, I would contact Banggood first and report the problem and if there was no solution I would also report it to Fengmi support. I do not believe both will see it as a problem, but you will never know, until you ask them.


----------



## Aztar35

chrisdu46 said:


> Good evening,
> I've owned the T1 for almost 2 months and today I just noticed a dead pixel...I'm disgusted. I bought my T1 on Banggood and I don't think I can claim the warranty for a single white dot/dead pixel. What do you think ?


Hi. Where is the pixel on the screen? Can you see it from 7 feet away?


----------



## humax

Sunbox2408 said:


> Is this similar or an alternative to hd fury arcana or are they two different devices?



I believe it shares some similarities with the Arcana audio-wise, but without the video aspects. The main point is this has line-out, while the Arcana does not.


----------



## chrisdu46

[Q


Aztar35 said:


> Hi. Where is the pixel on the screen? Can you see it from 7 feet away?


Yes i can see it from 7 feet away. And we only see that!


----------



## chrisdu46

humax said:


> I understand how you feel, but one dead pixel is not the end of the world. 6-7 of them, certainly yes. However, I would contact Banggood first and report the problem and if there was no solution I would also report it to Fengmi support. I do not believe both will see it as a problem, but you will never know, until you ask them.


Sorry but it's really annoying and we only see that now! I will post some pictures


----------



## humax

chrisdu46 said:


> Yes i can see it from 7 feet away. And we only see that!



Can you take a picture from your viewing distance?


----------



## imapfsr

m0j0 said:


> Here's some daytime photos of a PBS Kids show my kids were watching around lunchtime today.
> 
> View attachment 3264218
> 
> 
> View attachment 3264219
> 
> 
> View attachment 3264220
> 
> 
> View attachment 3264221
> 
> 
> View attachment 3264222
> 
> 
> View attachment 3264223
> 
> 
> View attachment 3264224
> 
> 
> View attachment 3264225
> 
> 
> View attachment 3264226


That looks AMAZING!


----------



## chrisdu46

humax said:


> Can you take a picture from your viewing distance?


Here are 3 photos, sorry for the quality which is not great


----------



## humax

chrisdu46 said:


> Here are 3 photos, sorry for the quality which is not great




You are right, it is quite visible. I would send them these photos and express vocally my dissatisfaction. Who knows, you might get lucky, but it is indeed a tricky situation. Good luck and let us know what they replied!


----------



## JereyWolf

chrisdu46 said:


> Here are 3 photos, sorry for the quality which is not great


Wow...yeah that looks pretty terrible. Are you sure it's a dead pixel though? It looks like it has an odd shape to it...and seems too large to be a pixel.


----------



## chrisdu46

humax said:


> You are right, it is quite visible. I would send them these photos and express vocally my dissatisfaction. Who knows, you might get lucky, but it is indeed a tricky situation. Good luck and let us know what they replied!


Thank you so much Humax for your support. Bought a 2300 Euro projector and just 2 months later having this problem, it's really annoying. I'm going to try to see with Banggood, but I'm afraid of having an end of not receiving. Frankly, I don't even want to watch a movie anymore because I only see this dead pixel and it's just unbearable


----------



## chrisdu46

JereyWolf said:


> Wow...yeah that looks pretty terrible. Are you sure that's it's a dead pixel though? It looks like it has an odd shape to it...and seems too large to be a pixel.


yes no doubt it is a dead pixel. The photos are not good and distort / magnify the reality. From what I actually see the dot is less wide and I'm sure it's a ****ing dead pixel


----------



## humax

JereyWolf said:


> Wow...yeah that looks pretty terrible. Are you sure that's it's a dead pixel though? It looks like it has an odd shape to it...and seems too large to be a pixel.



Defective DMD with a stuck micro-mirror, perhaps?


----------



## humax

chrisdu46 said:


> Thank you so much Humax for your support. Bought a 2300 Euro projector and just 2 months later having this problem, it's really annoying.



I hear you! Money is hard to come by nowadays and you need this to be perfect. I am obsesive-compulsive like that too, but like I said it is a tricky situation. However, if they refuse to replace it, I would ask for a DMD replacement. This could also be an option, since your unit is within warranty.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Aztar35 said:


> I haven't seen the T1, but going by the fact that the person who sold me the C2 kept his T1, my guess is he preferred the T1.
> 
> 
> 
> What?


I glanced and saw the Az name beginning and immediately thought it was you. Older eyes, perdoneme.


----------



## Aztar35

chrisdu46 said:


> [Q
> 
> Yes i can see it from 7 feet away. And we only see that!


Sorry to hear that. 

I assume you ruled out the screen material causing the anomaly and were left with the projector. And as others have pointed out that --to me too-- looks too large of an area to be one stuck pixel. My guess so far is that it may be a particle in the light path or a failed mirror.


----------



## Aztar35

Ricoflashback said:


> I glanced and saw the Az name beginning and immediately thought it was you.


No problem.


----------



## azar777

Tell me which company is the best screen 150 inches?


----------



## ACE844

azar777 said:


> Tell me which company is the best screen 150 inches?


Folks here will generally be very helpful to those of us who are neophytes. You demanding they act as your secretary and provide you with answers when you're unwilling to expend even a modicum of effort to research and find info on your own will not get you the response you seek. Yandex is your friend.,tovarich.


----------



## chrisdu46

Aztar35 said:


> Désolé d'entendre ça.
> 
> Je suppose que vous avez exclu le matériau de l'écran à l'origine de l'anomalie et que vous vous êtes retrouvé avec le projecteur. Et comme d'autres l'ont souligné, cela - pour moi aussi - semble trop grand pour être un pixel bloqué. Ma conjecture jusqu'à présent est qu'il peut s'agir d'une particule dans le trajet de la lumière ou d'un miroir défaillant.
> [/DEVIS]
> Voici une vidéo de mon problème :


----------



## m0j0

If you turn off that purple backlight, does it go away? Have you placed some paper or your hand in front of the dot to see if it's definitely coming from the projector?


----------



## chrisdu46

m0j0 said:


> If you turn off that purple backlight, does it go away? Have you placed some paper or your hand in front of the dot to see if it's definitely coming from the projector?


nothing to do with the purple backlight for sure. The white point does indeed come from the projector. I checked my screen for possible dirt but nothing like that. I just reported the issue to Banggood..fingers crossed.


----------



## m0j0

Ok, so I changed up my settings a little bit, hoping to find one that looks good in both daytime and night, works well with bright and dark content and is fairly color accurate. So far, this seems to be working really well in the testing I did last night and my kids watching shows and movies during the day and afternoon. The skin tones are good, all the colors feel right, the shadow detail is excellent and the black levels are good, though not as deep as the previous setup with warm. That is the trade off really, either I get deeper blacks and lose out on some shadow detail or I get really good shadow detail but slightly less deep blacks (though still really good black levels).

For this one, I changed the color temp to custom from warm and then made slight changes to both contrast and tone. Here's the custom color settings I am using currently with this setup:
Red: 1024
Green: 1024
Blue: 960


----------



## azar777

fengmi t1 Wemax A300 4K which is better according to the picture


----------



## Aztar35

chrisdu46 said:


> _


I didn't post that. Oh, never mind, I see you accidentally put your video in my quote. Got it. That's a video of your problem. I think M0j0 wanted you to rule out there was a hole in the screen where the backlight was bleeding through.


----------



## m0j0

azar777 said:


> fengmi t1 Wemax A300 4K which is better according to the picture


Why would you even ask that here? You know this is a T1 thread, right? Of course the T1 is better...


----------



## Aztar35

azar777 said:


> Tell me which company is the best screen 150 inches?


Stewart screens are my favorite. The ones I'm aware of are for front projectors, though. But I use mine with my UST. If you want to use it in a light-controlled room but not fully blacked out, you can go with the Stewart Tiburon. It's a .8 gain screen. The screen has virtually no texture and I use a scope screen with masking.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Aztar35 said:


> Stewart screens are my favorite. The ones I'm aware of are for front projectors, though. But I use mine with my UST. If you want to use it in a light-controlled room but not fully blacked out, you can go with the Stewart Tiburon. It's a .8 gain screen. The screen has virtually no texture and I use a scope screen with masking.
> 
> View attachment 3264448


No shadow from the larger bezel?


----------



## zaselim

A msg just appeared on the screen
"do you agree to the privacy? (view privacy agreement) then 2 options "agree" "disagree".
Have you guys had this? If yes then what is it about and what to choose?
I didnt know what to do, the agreement was in Chinese so i just turned off the projector and then turned it back on lol.


----------



## rjyap

zaselim said:


> A msg just appeared on the screen
> "do you agree to the privacy? (view privacy agreement) then 2 options "agree" "disagree".
> Have you guys had this? If yes then what is it about and what to choose?
> I didnt know what to do, the agreement was in Chinese so i just turned off the projector and then turned it back on lol.


Frankly speaking do you think they will honor the privacy agreement? If I have concern on certain device, just block it from accessing internet from your router.


----------



## zaselim

rjyap said:


> Frankly speaking do you think they will honor the privacy agreement? If I have concern on certain device, just block it from accessing internet from your router.


Didn't appear after i restarted, i will decline it if it appears again.


----------



## ba_crane

Aztar35 said:


> Stewart screens are my favorite. The ones I'm aware of are for front projectors, though. But I use mine with my UST. If you want to use it in a light-controlled room but not fully blacked out, you can go with the Stewart Tiburon. It's a .8 gain screen. The screen has virtually no texture and I use a scope screen with masking.
> 
> View attachment 3264448


You mention using in light controlled room but not fully blacked out room. Any reason one wouldn’t want to use the screen in a fully blacked out room?


----------



## ProFragger

ngcoolman said:


> The post said the big sale in China usually occurs on June 18 and Nov 11.


Thank you. Can you give me more context, if you have any? Who posted that? What would the sale look like in terms of discount? And why those 2 days? 

Thank you!


----------



## Joered101

ProjectionHead said:


> I'm tossing it directly into the ring - sink or swim over here! 👊


You doing a video comparison soon then? Between the LSP9 and T1? Very curious to see!


----------



## ngcoolman

ProFragger said:


> Thank you. Can you give me more context, if you have any? Who posted that? What would the sale look like in terms of discount? And why those 2 days?
> 
> Thank you!


People who are single in China celebrate Nov 11 for being single. Because there are stereotype of computer nerds being difficult to find partners, the big e-commerce websites promote this day as the big sales day. You can consider this day as the black friday + cyber monday combined in China. Discount rate will be of similar scale too. 

But I am not it will be relevant to potential oversea buyers of T1. Many alibaba sellers are already selling at much lower price than the local retail price, probably because they can skip charging local VAT by exporting the products. Morever, buying from those sellers can save the hassle of handling the logistics yourselves as well as providing some warranty.


----------



## azar777

fengmi t1 or samsung lsp9t what to choose?


----------



## rooterha

azar777 said:


> fengmi t1 or samsung lsp9t what to choose?


T1. Now contribute something instead of just lazy questions.


----------



## Aztar35

Ricoflashback said:


> No shadow from the larger bezel?


No shadow as you can see from the pic, but I'm going to look more carefully to see if the bezel is eating up any of the image, however slight.


----------



## Aztar35

ba_crane said:


> You mention using in light controlled room but not fully blacked out room. *Any reason one wouldn’t want to use the screen in a fully blacked out room?*


The answer is yes.

You don't need to use a gray screen in a fully light-controlled room.


----------



## Aztar35

azar777 said:


> fengmi t1 or samsung lsp9t what to choose?


A good starting point for you would be to perhaps go through the LSP9T thread and read about the pros and cons. And your question would be a good one to ask persons who have viewed both projectors. 

I've had a pre-production LSP9T here but I have yet to get a demo of the T1. Re the LSP9T, its color management system allows you to dial in the colors nicely and it has the larger .66 chip for a native 1528 resolution; but really, I would like to have seen better contrast performance from it onscreen.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Aztar35 said:


> No shadow as you can see from the pic, but I'm going to look more carefully to see if the bezel is eating up any of the image, however slight.


Much thanks. I’m also curious if you get any halo reflections (most likely not - usually with fresnel screens) or any other light reflections. And - how the off axis viewing is. Here’s the thing - even if you don’t have a blacked out theater but you view 99% at night with no lights on, do you really need an ALR screen? As far as pixel resolution goes, I always thought the cleanest surface provides the best image. In other words, if you are in a multipurpose room with off white walls, for example, but you primarily watch at night with no lights on - will that work with a UST projector with even a larger bezel? I would think the screen size could make a difference on the angle and any possible shadow.

Now - if you intend on watching content during the day with light pouring in, then yes, you would certainly need an ALR screen. But otherwise?

Well known poster and JVC advocate, Mike Garrett, stated that contrast is contrast and even in non optimal conditions (no blacked out, velvet Elvis room) the projector with the best contrast will always look better. And, that a JVC projector could be used in a non bat cave environment as well. I know that affects the black floor but if you really watch most of your content at night - do you really need an ALR screen with a UST PJ? We‘ll be renting, shortly, and I could even pickup a used screen instead of shining it on the wall until we finally relocate. Thx.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Aztar35 said:


> Stewart screens are my favorite. The ones I'm aware of are for front projectors, though. But I use mine with my UST. If you want to use it in a light-controlled room but not fully blacked out, you can go with the Stewart Tiburon. It's a .8 gain screen. The screen has virtually no texture and I use a scope screen with masking.
> 
> View attachment 3264448


Is that the Tiburon G4 (Cima only) that is gray with ALR properties?


----------



## Aztar35

Ricoflashback said:


> Much thanks. I’m also curious if you get any halo reflections (most likely not - usually with fresnel screens) or any other light reflections. And - how the off axis viewing is. Here’s the thing - even if you don’t have a blacked out theater but you view 99% at night with no lights on, do you really need an ALR screen? As far as pixel resolution goes, I always thought the cleanest surface provides the best image. In other words, if you are in a multipurpose room with off white walls, for example, but you primarily watch at night with no lights on - will that work with a UST projector with even a larger bezel? I would think the screen size could make a difference on the angle and any possible shadow.
> 
> Now - if you intend on watching content during the day with light pouring in, then yes, you would certainly need an ALR screen. But otherwise?
> 
> Well known poster and JVC advocate, Mike Garrett, stated that contrast is contrast and even in non optimal conditions (no blacked out, velvet Elvis room) the projector with the best contrast will always look better. And, that a JVC projector could be used in a non bat cave environment as well. I know that affects the black floor but if you really watch most of your content at night - do you really need an ALR screen with a UST PJ? We‘ll be renting, shortly, and I could even pickup a used screen instead of shining it on the wall until we finally relocate. Thx.


The contrast of a projector doesn't change, so head-to-head, the machine with the better contrast should look better regardless of the room. But I believe a non-optimal room will 1) impact simultaneous contrast/ANSI contrast and 2) impact black levels.

The arguments in favor of using high contrast projectors regardless of the non-optimal room setups is that ANSI is not as relevant as sequential contrast... that it's the brighter scenes that cause more reflections and the eyes adjust on those scenes anyway. On the black levels front, the favoring theory continues, arguing that with a high contrast projector, in scenes with very low APL, the projector is not projecting enough light to reflect off the room in a way to negatively impact the image.

I'm not a fan of either of these theories. 1) My take is that intra-scene contrast is important to creating depth in bright scenes. Moreover, why bother creating an ALR screen if otherwise were the case. 2) I believe that so long as light is coming off the screen, there is the potential for washout --would someone place a mirror directly in front of the screen even in the very darkest of scenes? I would not.



Ricoflashback said:


> Is that the Tiburon G4 (Cima only) that is gray with ALR properties?


Yes. Off axis on it, I don't have wide seating, but you may want to look at the Stewart site because if I recall there is a drop. 

By the way, the contrast doesn't change with the screen, but darker material will decrease both the white and the black level, so you can get better blacks with a darker screen. But in a controlled room, a white screen should have some better color luminance.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Aztar35 said:


> The contrast of a projector doesn't change, so head-to-head, the machine with the better contrast should look better regardless of the room. But I believe a non-optimal room will 1) impact simultaneous contrast/ANSI contrast and 2) impact black levels.
> 
> By the way, the contrast doesn't change with the screen, but darker material will decrease both the white and the black level, so you can get better blacks with a darker screen. But in a controlled room, a white screen should have some better color luminance.


From your statements and experience, I surmise that a screen like the Tiburon G4 that does have ALR properties (gray screen - .8 gain) but is NOT a specific UST ALR screen could work fine for nightime viewing and minimal ambient light as long as there isn’t too much of a shadow with a larger bezel. That would be my major concern. In theory, it should provide a brighter image and excellent black levels when compared to say a XY Screens Pet Crystal screen.

I’m not as concerned, as much, with off axis viewing as I’ll be the primary viewer with my wife occasionally participating in watching movies. On occasion, bro’s or couples over for a big game or entertaining. So, your observations on any shadows from a UST PJ with a bigger bezel is very much appreciated. Even if I had to overscan a little, a black velvet frame should negate and absorb that light.


----------



## xrayg1971

jakechoy said:


> again - I didn't ask for AVS forum reference. am just asking where are the other general reviews of the XM Laser C2 that said it has dual laser + color wheel and have issues? That would be helpful for others rather than just slamming a very well-sorted DV UST projector for the masses.
> 
> And have u seen the U2 3 laser projector? that UST has sparkle issues like the LG etc. It almost made me convinced that 3 lasers were a no-go until I tested the T1 in person.
> 
> Passing armchair comments like that is really not helpful vs focusing on specific models in questions. just my 0.02.


my comments are my comments as are your and we are all entitled to our opinions .. i was giving mine and obviously you have yours so why even ask for an opinion if you are not willing to see it lol ..you may be on the wrong board .. go to the c2 board if you want to talk about that one . .


----------



## xrayg1971

m0j0 said:


> Here's some daytime photos of a PBS Kids show my kids were watching around lunchtime today.
> 
> View attachment 3264218
> 
> 
> View attachment 3264219
> 
> 
> View attachment 3264220
> 
> 
> View attachment 3264221
> 
> 
> View attachment 3264222
> 
> 
> View attachment 3264223
> 
> 
> View attachment 3264224
> 
> 
> View attachment 3264225
> 
> 
> View attachment 3264226


dude looks unreal ... even in lighted steetings .. good job on the settings ... question is the t1 native 4k or is it pixel shifted to 4k?


----------



## m0j0

xrayg1971 said:


> dude looks unreal ... even in lighted steetings .. good job on the settings ... question is the t1 native 4k or is it pixel shifted to 4k?


It is pixel shifting 4k I believe.


----------



## humax

xrayg1971 said:


> dude looks unreal ... even in lighted steetings .. good job on the settings ... question is the t1 native 4k or is it pixel shifted to 4k?



It is 1080 X 4 pixel-shifting. Samsung's 0.66" DMD is 1528 X 2 pixel-shifting. Theoretically, the latter offers a sharper image with a quality lens. No consumer DLP is native 4K. Even 8K will likely happen via pixel-shifting (perhaps a 0.97" DMD).


----------



## Aztar35

Ricoflashback said:


> From your statements and experience, I surmise that a screen like the Tiburon G4 that does have ALR properties (gray screen - .8 gain) but is NOT a specific UST ALR screen could work fine for nightime viewing and minimal ambient light as long as there isn’t too much of a shadow with a larger bezel. That would be my major concern. In theory, it should provide a brighter image and excellent black levels when compared to say a XY Screens Pet Crystal screen.
> 
> I’m not as concerned, as much, with off axis viewing as I’ll be the primary viewer with my wife occasionally participating in watching movies. On occasion, bro’s or couples over for a big game or entertaining. So, your observations on any shadows from a UST PJ with a bigger bezel is very much appreciated. Even if I had to overscan a little, a black velvet frame should negate and absorb that light.


And more sharpness with less texture. I'll make a more detailed check for shadow from the bezel.


----------



## Aztar35

humax said:


> It is 1080 X 4 pixel-shifting. Samsung's 0.66" DMD is 1528 X 2 pixel-shifting. Theoretically, the latter offers a sharper image with a quality lens. No consumer DLP is native 4K. Even 8K will likely happen via pixel-shifting (perhaps a 0.97" DMD).


"Theoretically," is right. I had the Optoma UHZ65, a standard throw/front projector that had the .66/.67 DMD/chip. My Laser C2 with its .47 chip/1080x4 looks to have more sharpness and texture than did the UHZ65. The shorter distance and optics of the C2 could be playing a role; I'm not sure. And I haven't yet had a demo of the native 4K DLP projectors, the ones with the 1.38 chips, like the Gryffin for example, but the sharpness I'm getting right now with the Laser C2 is tremendous and I have no complaints whatsoever.


----------



## humax

Aztar35 said:


> "Theoretically," is right. I had the Optoma UHZ65, a standard throw/front projector that had the .66/.67 DMD/chip. My Laser C2 with its .47 chip/1080x4 looks to have more sharpness and texture than did the UHZ65. The shorter distance and optics of the C2 could be playing a role; I'm not sure. And I haven't yet had a demo of the native 4K DLP projectors, the ones with the 1.38 chips, like the Gryffin for example, but the sharpness I'm getting right now with the Laser C2 is tremendous and I have no complaints whatsoever.



Yes, these seem to be ALPD module's main strengths. Black levels and sharpness. For some reason, it punches above its weight in this price range, since the 0.47" DMD is quite mediocre inherently in these two aspects. However, when I had watched a side by side comparison of a 0.47" and a 0.66" lamp-based units about 4 years ago, this was not the case. The former looked noticeably softer to my eyes than the latter. Not by much, but still a clear difference.


----------



## Aztar35

humax said:


> Yes, these seem to be ALPD module's main strengths. Black levels and sharpness.


I measured my JVC NX5 at about 29,000:1 native sequential contrast with the aperture fully open, but when I play actual content, the contrast difference in low light level scenes onscreen between it and the C2 was not as stark as I was expecting.

You know, @m0j0 also has a FP, a Sony Lcos 695ES, and I'm waiting to hear more comparisons from him between the T1 and the Sony. But I will say that I remember here when he got that Sony, and I don't recall him being as adamant as with this T1 --posting his observations, many photos, calibrations, etc. That tells me something.

I've had different projectors and a JVC NX5, and this ALPD is one of my favorites mainly because of the sharpness, clarity, motion, and intra-scene contrast. So, maybe it's my personal taste, or maybe ALPD is just all-around that good of a performer.


----------



## m0j0

Aztar35 said:


> I measured my JVC NX5 at about 29,000:1 native sequential contrast with the aperture fully open, but when I play actual content, the contrast difference in low light level scenes onscreen between it and the C2 was not as stark as I was expecting.
> 
> You know, @m0j0 also has a FP, a Sony Lcos 695ES, and I'm waiting to hear more comparisons from him between the T1 and the Sony. But I will say that I remember here when he got that Sony, and I don't recall him being as adamant as with this T1 --posting his observations, many photos, calibrations, etc. That tells me something.
> 
> I've had different projectors and a JVC NX5, and this ALPD is one of my favorites mainly because of the sharpness, clarity, motion, and intra-scene contrast. So, maybe it's my personal taste, or maybe ALPD is just all-around that good of a performer.


When I originally got my Sony, I thought it was good, but it didn’t quite live up to my expectations of it. However, that all changed when I added a Vertex2 to it. A totally different projector now. Tone mapping really is key in my experience to a good picture from a projector. I love my Sony now and don’t plan on swapping it out any time soon.


----------



## ACE844

I am considering adding the vroom to my setup to run lldv and bt2020 color space all the time. It's inspired similar to how @daveharper advocated for doing with the LSP9T and several other BT2020 RGB UST machines throughout various threads here. Does anyone here have current experience with using the vroom with a T1 and what are your thoughts? Do you have any setup and config suggestions for an optimal result? Is there anything I am missing and or is there a more optimal config scenario? Are there any reasons I shouldn't consider adding it to this machine??


----------



## m0j0

ACE844 said:


> I am considering adding the vroom to my setup to run lldv and bt2020 color space all the time. It's inspired similar to how @daveharper advocated for doing with the LSP9T and several other BT2020 RGB UST machines throughout various threads here. Does anyone here have current experience with using the vroom with a T1 and what are your thoughts? Do you have any setup and config suggestions for an optimal result? Is there anything I am missing and or is there a more optimal config scenario? Are there any reasons I shouldn't consider adding it to this machine??


Yes, several of us use HDFury devices. I use a Vertex2, I think some others might have a vroom.

In my calibration link, I have screenshots of the HDR and DV tab from my Vertex2.








Formovie Fengmi T1


Try unplug the cable and plug in again. Sometimes it doesn’t detect the signal.




www.avsforum.com


----------



## ACE844

m0j0 said:


> Yes, several of us use HDFury devices. I use a Vertex2, I think some others might have a vroom.
> 
> In my calibration link, I have screenshots of the HDR and DV tab from my Vertex2.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Formovie Fengmi T1
> 
> 
> Try unplug the cable and plug in again. Sometimes it doesn’t detect the signal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


@m0j0, thank you, I noticed in your screen shots that you are only using it for LLDV sources, can you explain why you chose not to use the upconversion and tonemapping all the time?


----------



## JereyWolf

Do most owners here feel that their T1 is generally "sharp" with text? 

Are you are able to get all corners corners of the focus adjustment screen to look sharp at the same time?


----------



## zoomx2

JereyWolf said:


> Do most owners here feel that their T1 is generally "sharp" with text?
> 
> Are you are able to get all corners corners of the focus adjustment screen to look sharp at the same time?


If you are in the original firmware left top corner is not perfectly focused. The beta firmware improves it quite a lot.


----------



## ProFragger

ngcoolman said:


> People who are single in China celebrate Nov 11 for being single. Because there are stereotype of computer nerds being difficult to find partners, the big e-commerce websites promote this day as the big sales day. You can consider this day as the black friday + cyber monday combined in China. Discount rate will be of similar scale too.
> 
> But I am not it will be relevant to potential oversea buyers of T1. Many alibaba sellers are already selling at much lower price than the local retail price, probably because they can skip charging local VAT by exporting the products. Morever, buying from those sellers can save the hassle of handling the logistics yourselves as well as providing some warranty.


Thanks for the education! I assume you don't recommend waiting for those special holiday sales? 

Thanks!


----------



## m0j0

ACE844 said:


> @m0j0, thank you, I noticed in your screen shots that you are only using it for LLDV sources, can you explain why you chose not to use the upconversion and tonemapping all the time?


All my sources are forcing DV so they are all player led and tone mapped.


----------



## m0j0

Ok, so ran yet another calibration, this time around I'm back to night mode, but with the addition of custom color to try and get the best black levels at night plus the best skin tones / color accuracy. I think it's looking pretty darn good from what I've seen of it so far.

Edit: Found that bumping the DV max luminance to 130 nits works pretty well to give a bright picture.Still expermimenting with this though.

Brightness set to: Night Mode
Custom Color settings:
Red: 903
Green: 1024
Blue: 944


----------



## lattiboy

Should be getting my Vertex 2 by Thursday, but before I sold my Arcana I decided to try it out (thanks @spexman for the nudge!).

At any rate, with the 0 min luminance and 100 max luminance with LLDV on and my Roku Ultra set to always on HDR I got some very impressive results.

Office brightness, Brightness at 40, contrast at 92, and tone at 53 with warm settings did good for me on a quick and dirty calibration. Thanks @m0j0 for all the work you’ve done with HD Fury. 

The color volume is now through the roof. It was already very good and now I simply don’t know how much more real color can look without me getting an eye upgrade.

I ran into an issue where the iPhone camera basically can’t get the dynamic range and color I’m seeing in room, so these pictures are not great. I think I need a full frame SLR to capture this meaningfully anymore, at least with lights dimmed as they are in these. The first picture is so utterly stunning in person I almost don’t wanna post this lame picture, but it’s all I have:


----------



## m0j0

lattiboy said:


> Should be getting my Vertex 2 by Thursday, but before I sold my Arcana I decided to try it out (thanks @spexman for the nudge!).
> 
> At any rate, with the 0 min luminance and 100 max luminance with LLDV on and my Roku Ultra set to always on HDR I got some very impressive results.
> 
> Office brightness, Brightness at 40, contrast at 92, and tone at 53 with warm settings did good for me on a quick and dirty calibration. Thanks @m0j0 for all the work you’ve done with HD Fury.
> 
> The color volume is now through the roof. It was already very good and now I simply don’t know how much more real color can look without me getting an eye upgrade.
> 
> I ran into an issue where the iPhone camera basically can’t get the dynamic range and color I’m seeing in room, so these pictures are not great. I think I need a full frame SLR to capture this meaningfully anymore, at least with lights dimmed as they are in these. The first picture is so utterly stunning in person I almost don’t wanna post this lame picture, but it’s all I have:
> 
> View attachment 3264944
> 
> View attachment 3264942
> 
> View attachment 3264943
> 
> View attachment 3264945


Rock and Roll @lattiboy!


----------



## JackB

lattiboy said:


> Should be getting my Vertex 2 by Thursday, but before I sold my Arcana I decided to try it out (thanks @spexman for the nudge!).
> 
> At any rate, with the 0 min luminance and 100 max luminance with LLDV on and my Roku Ultra set to always on HDR I got some very impressive results.
> 
> Office brightness, Brightness at 40, contrast at 92, and tone at 53 with warm settings did good for me on a quick and dirty calibration. Thanks @m0j0 for all the work you’ve done with HD Fury.
> 
> The color volume is now through the roof. It was already very good and now I simply don’t know how much more real color can look without me getting an eye upgrade.
> 
> I ran into an issue where the iPhone camera basically can’t get the dynamic range and color I’m seeing in room, so these pictures are not great. I think I need a full frame SLR to capture this meaningfully anymore, at least with lights dimmed as they are in these. The first picture is so utterly stunning in person I almost don’t wanna post this lame picture, but it’s all I have:
> 
> View attachment 3264944
> 
> View attachment 3264942
> 
> View attachment 3264943
> 
> View attachment 3264945


I thought the T1 had it's own DV support. Why do you need an HD fury?


----------



## sleeper37

lattiboy said:


> Should be getting my Vertex 2 by Thursday, but before I sold my Arcana I decided to try it out (thanks @spexman for the nudge!).


Wow, looks nice. What kind of screen are you using with it?


----------



## m0j0

Ok, here's a few pics from tonight's low brightness with custom color calibration


----------



## lattiboy

m0j0 said:


> Ok, so ran yet another calibration, this time around I'm back to night mode, but with the addition of custom color to try and get the best black levels at night plus the best skin tones / color accuracy. I think it's looking pretty darn good from what I've seen of it so far.
> 
> Brightness set to: Night Mode
> Custom Color settings:
> Red: 903
> Green: 1024
> Blue: 944
> View attachment 3264937


Tried these with my Arcana and got very good results. Never gotten every color above 75% on this color clipping chart until now. Picture doesn’t do it justice, because camera can’t capture fainter boxes in the chart:


----------



## ngcoolman

ProFragger said:


> Thanks for the education! I assume you don't recommend waiting for those special holiday sales?
> 
> Thanks!


Yup. Don't need to wait imo. And by the time Nov 11 arrives, there will likely be a newer model.


----------



## wltam

m0j0 said:


> Ok, so ran yet another calibration, this time around I'm back to night mode, but with the addition of custom color to try and get the best black levels at night plus the best skin tones / color accuracy. I think it's looking pretty darn good from what I've seen of it so far.
> 
> Brightness set to: Night Mode
> Custom Color settings:
> Red: 903
> Green: 1024
> Blue: 944
> View attachment 3264937


Hey M0j0! These are for your previous Vertex2 including LLDV right? Do you think it would be possible for you to also calibrate these settings for HDR + SDR on the Vertex2? That would be super appreciated!


----------



## JereyWolf

JackB said:


> I thought the T1 had it's own DV support. Why do you need an HD fury?


For customized control of the tone mapping.


----------



## jakechoy

xrayg1971 said:


> my comments are my comments as are your and we are all entitled to our opinions .. i was giving mine and obviously you have yours so why even ask for an opinion if you are not willing to see it lol ..you may be on the wrong board .. go to the c2 board if you want to talk about that one . .


Hmmm.. I am sure I am the original poster of this thread and first reviewer of the T1..but hey what do I know right?


----------



## Aztar35

Ricoflashback said:


> could work fine for nightime viewing and minimal ambient light as long as there isn’t too much of a shadow with a larger bezel. That would be my major concern.
> .


My screen is a 125 inch diagonal 2.35:1 aspect ratio screen. Filling the screen, there is a slight c. 2mm shadow in the shape of a line right above the bezel bottom right of the screen that fades out by the time you get into the bottom middle of the screen. I couldn't even see it before it's so negligible and only noticed it when I walked right up to the screen to scrutinize it.

Using 2.35 aspect content to gauge the image fill, I noticed the image overshoots the screen by a little over an inch on the bottom, and about a 1/2 inch or more on the sides.

Keep in mind, your situation may still vary. I don't know if these findings would be worsened or improved, e.g., via an imperfectly or perfectly flat wall or projector alignment efforts. I would suggest actually trying a bezel screen in your space and doing further research. Also, look into similar but borderless screens. Good luck.


----------



## xrayg1971

m0j0 said:


> It is pixel shifting 4k I believe.





m0j0 said:


> It is pixel shifting 4k I believe.


@MoJo


m0j0 said:


> It is pixel shifting 4k I believe.


mojo .. qq ... you have the 100 alr right ... did you use this for your screen setup?








trying to put up my screen before my unit arrives ... thks


----------



## m0j0

lattiboy said:


> Should be getting my Vertex 2 by Thursday, but before I sold my Arcana I decided to try it out (thanks @spexman for the nudge!).
> 
> At any rate, with the 0 min luminance and 100 max luminance with LLDV on and my Roku Ultra set to always on HDR I got some very impressive results.
> 
> Office brightness, Brightness at 40, contrast at 92, and tone at 53 with warm settings did good for me on a quick and dirty calibration. Thanks @m0j0 for all the work you’ve done with HD Fury.
> 
> The color volume is now through the roof. It was already very good and now I simply don’t know how much more real color can look without me getting an eye upgrade.
> 
> I ran into an issue where the iPhone camera basically can’t get the dynamic range and color I’m seeing in room, so these pictures are not great. I think I need a full frame SLR to capture this meaningfully anymore, at least with lights dimmed as they are in these. The first picture is so utterly stunning in person I almost don’t wanna post this lame picture, but it’s all I have:
> 
> View attachment 3264944
> 
> View attachment 3264942
> 
> View attachment 3264943
> 
> View attachment 3264945



Here's an LLDV/Vertex2 related calibration I did for the shows my kids watch that looks really stunning, similar to your testing with a low brightness, high contrast setup. I really can't believe the difference. It doesn't work for all content, but when it does, just wow!
Brightness: Night Mode
Custom Color:
Red: 903
Green: 1024
Blue: 944


----------



## ted_b

lattiboy said:


> Should be getting my Vertex 2 by Thursday, but before I sold my Arcana I decided to try it out (thanks @spexman for the nudge!).
> 
> At any rate, with the 0 min luminance and 100 max luminance with LLDV on and my Roku Ultra set to always on HDR I got some very impressive results.
> 
> Office brightness, Brightness at 40, contrast at 92, and tone at 53 with warm settings did good for me on a quick and dirty calibration. Thanks @m0j0 for all the work you’ve done with HD Fury.
> 
> The color volume is now through the roof. It was already very good and now I simply don’t know how much more real color can look without me getting an eye upgrade.
> 
> I ran into an issue where the iPhone camera basically can’t get the dynamic range and color I’m seeing in room, so these pictures are not great. I think I need a full frame SLR to capture this meaningfully anymore, at least with lights dimmed as they are in these. The first picture is so utterly stunning in person I almost don’t wanna post this lame picture, but it’s all I have:
> 
> View attachment 3264944
> 
> View attachment 3264942
> 
> View attachment 3264943
> 
> View attachment 3264945


Great pics @lattiboy I'm confused by your statement, though, a little. Are you saying that you borrowed a Vertex2 before you sold the Arcana, and these are the results....or that these are Arcana results? If the latter, why swap out the Arcana?
Thx
Ted


----------



## rooterha

m0j0 said:


> Here's an LLDV/Vertex2 related calibration I did for the shows my kids watch that looks really stunning, similar to your testing with a low brightness, high contrast setup. I really can't believe the difference. It doesn't work for all content, but when it does, just wow!
> Brightness: Night Mode
> Custom Color:
> Red: 903
> Green: 1024
> Blue: 944


Yeah - really hoping for a way to customize at least 3-4 modes in the future. Some movies look amazing with settings like this and some are completely unwatchable. But as you said when it works it's amazing.


----------



## lattiboy

ted_b said:


> Great pics @lattiboy I'm confused by your statement, though, a little. Are you saying that you borrowed a Vertex2 before you sold the Arcana, and these are the results....or that these are Arcana results? If the latter, why swap out the Arcana?
> Thx
> Ted


I got an Arcana a few months ago, but didn’t really think it helped, then I saw mojos success with a Vertex 2 and decided to order one. While waiting for that to arrive I decided to use the Arcana again with mojos settings and it looks very good. Still need Vertex as I have multiple devices, but the Arcana can achieve similar results if you’re okay with a single input or have an input switching receiver.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Aztar35 said:


> My screen is a 125 inch diagonal 2.35:1 aspect ratio screen. Filling the screen, there is a slight c. 2mm shadow in the shape of a line right above the bezel bottom right of the screen that fades out by the time you get into the bottom middle of the screen. I couldn't even see it before it's so negligible and only noticed it when I walked right up to the screen to scrutinize it.
> 
> Using 2.35 aspect content to gauge the image fill, I noticed the image overshoots the screen by a little over an inch on the bottom, and about a 1/2 inch or more on the sides.
> 
> Keep in mind, your situation may still vary. I don't know if these findings would be worsened or improved, e.g., via an imperfectly or perfectly flat wall or projector alignment efforts. I would suggest actually trying a bezel screen in your space and doing further research. Also, look into similar but borderless screens. Good luck.


Thanks Aztar35. Since we’ll be renting first, I’ll look for a used screen on Craigslist. It doesn’t have to be perfect but it will be better than just using the wall. I can’t believe the number of quality screens from Stewart and other quality manufacturers that pop up on Craigslist when people move. I mean some priced at $300 to $500 dollars with gray fabric and velvet bezels. Or, when folks upgrade. Net-net for me is that an ALR screen is really needed for someone who does a lot of watching during the day or with lots of ambient light in the room. If you do most of your watching at night with no lights on or you have a darkened theater space - you do not need a UST ALR specific screen, IMHO.


----------



## m0j0

xrayg1971 said:


> @MoJo
> 
> mojo .. qq ... you have the 100 alr right ... did you use this for your screen setup?
> View attachment 3265001
> 
> trying to put up my screen before my unit arrives ... thks


I do have a 100" screen, but don't actually recall which reference I used. Also, I would measure mine now, but my screen is not perfectly flush to the wall so don't want to give you numbers that don't work well for you.


----------



## m0j0

lattiboy said:


> Tried these with my Arcana and got very good results. Never gotten every color above 75% on this color clipping chart until now. Picture doesn’t do it justice, because camera can’t capture fainter boxes in the chart:
> 
> View attachment 3264964


What would you gauge is the approximate percentage of each (since we can't really tell from the picture)?


----------



## Ricoflashback

Aztar35 said:


> My screen is a 125 inch diagonal 2.35:1 aspect ratio screen. Filling the screen, there is a slight c. 2mm shadow in the shape of a line right above the bezel bottom right of the screen that fades out by the time you get into the bottom middle of the screen. I couldn't even see it before it's so negligible and only noticed it when I walked right up to the screen to scrutinize it.
> 
> Using 2.35 aspect content to gauge the image fill, I noticed the image overshoots the screen by a little over an inch on the bottom, and about a 1/2 inch or more on the sides.
> 
> Keep in mind, your situation may still vary. I don't know if these findings would be worsened or improved, e.g., via an imperfectly or perfectly flat wall or projector alignment efforts. I would suggest actually trying a bezel screen in your space and doing further research. Also, look into similar but borderless screens. Good luck.


One last comment - I think I'd actually welcome a larger bezel with a black velvet border (2.5" is the Cima Tiburon G4) as I can see myself going nuts trying to get a 100% exact coverage on a thin bezel screen. Any overscan on a black velvet frame will not be easily seen at night and with any ambient light - even harder to see.


----------



## Rvarma

lattiboy said:


> Tried these with my Arcana and got very good results. Never gotten every color above 75% on this color clipping chart until now. Picture doesn’t do it justice, because camera can’t capture fainter boxes in the chart:
> 
> View attachment 3264964


Thats awesome , will you be able to compare arcana and vertex2 once you have your veryex2.

How much of improvement you are getting vertex2 over arcama?


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> Here's an LLDV/Vertex2 related calibration I did for the shows my kids watch that looks really stunning, similar to your testing with a low brightness, high contrast setup. I really can't believe the difference. It doesn't work for all content, but when it does, just wow!
> Brightness: Night Mode
> Custom Color:
> Red: 903
> Green: 1024
> Blue: 944


M0j0, do you use Kodi on any of your devices? I'm wondering if they would output LLDV when using Kodi.


----------



## m0j0

donw said:


> M0j0, do you use Kodi on any of your devices? I'm wondering if they would output LLDV when using Kodi.


I do not use Kodi, sorry.


----------



## lattiboy

m0j0 said:


> What would you gauge is the approximate percentage of each (since we can't really tell from the picture)?


I would say most get to 77% depending on what your cutoff is. White and red closer to 75%. This is an HDR clip pattern


----------



## eezrider

xrayg1971 said:


> @MoJo
> 
> mojo .. qq ... you have the 100 alr right ... did you use this for your screen setup?
> View attachment 3265001
> 
> trying to put up my screen before my unit arrives ... thks


I'd recommend waiting til you have the projector. There is effectively zero adjustment available other than keystone, which you want to avoid if possible. The angle of projection is so shallow that very small position changes in the projector or screen have a magnified effect. So you would need to understand, for example, how much the screen stands out from the wall. Given you can project on the wall for a few days I'd wait and set it up carefully. Expect to spend some time getting right.

On my T1, for example, the projector has to be skewed slightly WRT the wall to get the picture aligned. That wouldn't have been predicted by that drawing.


----------



## eezrider

xrayg1971 said:


> @MoJo
> 
> mojo .. qq ... you have the 100 alr right ... did you use this for your screen setup?
> View attachment 3265001
> 
> trying to put up my screen before my unit arrives ... thks


I'd recommend waiting til you have the projector. There is effectively zero adjustment available other than keystone, which you want to avoid if possible. The angle of projection is so shallow that very small position changes in the projector or screen have a magnified effect. So you would need to understand, for example, how much the screen stands out from the wall. Given you can project on the wall for a few days I'd wait and set it up carefully. Expect to spend some time getting right.

On my T1, for example, the projector has to be skewed slightly WRT the wall to get the picture aligned. That wouldn't have been predicted by that drawing.


----------



## xrayg1971

eezrider said:


> I'd recommend waiting til you have the projector. There is effectively zero adjustment available other than keystone, which you want to avoid if possible. The angle of projection is so shallow that very small position changes in the projector or screen have a magnified effect. So you would need to understand, for example, how much the screen stands out from the wall. Given you can project on the wall for a few days I'd wait and set it up carefully. Expect to spend some time getting right.
> 
> On my T1, for example, the projector has to be skewed slightly WRT the wall to get the picture aligned. That wouldn't have been predicted by that drawing.


well distance from the wall is not a major concern for me .i can more closer or farther . i used the screen shot diagram.. my table is 20 inches high so i put the screen up about another 13.5 inches above that. im assuming the t1 feet are adjustable so that should work out and if i have to keystone it will be very minimal as everything is level ... i can also move my table left or right as needed .


----------



## sleeper37

Speaking of placement, how do I calculate how far from the wall the T1 has to be for a 115" screen?


----------



## ted_b

We’ll I assume you mean how far from the screen (wall is irrelevant if you are using a screen to shine on). 110” is 10.4” and 120” is 12” so figure somewhere around 11”


----------



## rjyap

Here's my settings for firmware v1.4 using madVR v113.

Image Parameters --> Custom
Brightness 50, Contrast 50, Saturation 50, Sharpness 10, Tone 50, Color Custom = Red Gain 1020, Green Gain 1024, Blue Gain 935, Dynamic Contrast = Off
Brightness Mode = View Mode
Play Settings --> HDMI --> 2.1


----------



## gen_x




----------



## 3sprit

HDR10+ is not supported.


----------



## Maqnvm7

lattiboy said:


> Should be getting my Vertex 2 by Thursday, but before I sold my Arcana I decided to try it out (thanks @spexman for the nudge!).
> 
> At any rate, with the 0 min luminance and 100 max luminance with LLDV on and my Roku Ultra set to always on HDR I got some very impressive results.
> 
> Office brightness, Brightness at 40, contrast at 92, and tone at 53 with warm settings did good for me on a quick and dirty calibration. Thanks @m0j0 for all the work you’ve done with HD Fury.
> 
> The color volume is now through the roof. It was already very good and now I simply don’t know how much more real color can look without me getting an eye upgrade.
> 
> I ran into an issue where the iPhone camera basically can’t get the dynamic range and color I’m seeing in room, so these pictures are not great. I think I need a full frame SLR to capture this meaningfully anymore, at least with lights dimmed as they are in these. The first picture is so utterly stunning in person I almost don’t wanna post this lame picture, but it’s all I have:
> 
> View attachment 3264944
> 
> View attachment 3264942
> 
> View attachment 3264943
> 
> View attachment 3264945


Do you prefer it over native Dolby Vision now?


----------



## m0j0

rjyap said:


> Here's my settings for firmware v1.4 using madVR v113.
> 
> Image Parameters --> Custom
> Brightness 50, Contrast 50, Saturation 50, Sharpness 10, Tone 50, Color Custom = Red Gain 1020, Green Gain 1024, Blue Gain 935, Dynamic Contrast = Off
> Brightness Mode = View Mode
> Play Settings --> HDMI --> 2.1
> 
> View attachment 3265365
> 
> View attachment 3265366
> 
> View attachment 3265360
> 
> View attachment 3265364
> 
> View attachment 3265362
> 
> View attachment 3265361
> 
> View attachment 3265363


Thanks for sharing your MadVR settings!


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

So I have kinda stopped stalking the thread for a while, but wanted to key in.
Finally got both Next Gen consoles and been enjoying gaming on the T1.

In game mode it looks great and preforms great. But I wanted to go back to the issue many of us had with the Shield.

The HDMI Handshake issue, while it does not seem to happen as often with my consoles, it did infact happen to me the other day with the XBOX Series X.

A game suddenly would not let me use HDR or 4K until I did the HDMI mode switch, then it worked.

As far as I am concerned this is the only real issue I have with this projector currently and I hope they can fix it.

I still do think sometimes HDR or DV can be on the dark side. Seems you can "fix it" to some extent in HDR as you still have the capacity to adjust image modes with contrast, brightness, etc. But DV is a "you get what you get" situation. So with Netflix having a lot of DV content, if its a dark show it can be hard to watch.

What is great about both the PS5 and Series X is that it has you calibrate your display for HDR so it seems to fix any darkness issues you might have in games, as it will pre-process the video to make it work best with your display. If only the Shield had something like that....


----------



## Ricoflashback

Does the Fengmi T1 have any bluetooth headphone listening option or even a 3.5mm jack for audio (wired or attach a bluetooth wireless device? How well does it work?


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Ricoflashback said:


> Does the Fengmi T1 have any bluetooth headphone listening option or even a 3.5mm jack for audio (wired or attach a bluetooth wireless device? How well does it work?


Almost positive you can hook up BT headphones, but not sure the performance (audio delay)
I think I would much rather connect to the audio source rather than the display device (Your Denon X6700H)


----------



## m0j0

Did some experimenting with using 130 nits on the DV tab of the Vertex2 with my most recent settings. Seems to bring up the shadow detail a bit more from what I could see, so that's pretty good! Still experimenting with brightness and contrast though as there are some really dark scenes in Dune that look better bumping up brightness and bringing down contrast a little bit with this 130 nit setting, so trying to decide if those settings carry over to other content or not. In the meantime, here's a few pics.


----------



## ba_crane

m0j0 said:


> Did some experimenting with using 130 nits on the DV tab of the Vertex2 with my most recent settings. Seems to bring up the shadow detail a bit more from what I could see, so that's pretty good! Still experimenting with brightness and contrast though as there are some really dark scenes in Dune that look better bumping up brightness and bringing down contrast a little bit with this 130 nit setting, so trying to decide if those settings carry over to other content or not. In the meantime, here's a few pics.
> 
> View attachment 3265428
> 
> 
> View attachment 3265429
> 
> 
> View attachment 3265430
> 
> 
> View attachment 3265431
> 
> 
> View attachment 3265433
> 
> 
> View attachment 3265434
> 
> 
> View attachment 3265435
> 
> 
> View attachment 3265436
> 
> 
> View attachment 3265437
> 
> 
> View attachment 3265438
> 
> 
> View attachment 3265439


They look great.
Would you consider placing the t1 in your theater temporarily just to see how it looks on a non-UST screen in a light controlled room?


----------



## m0j0

ba_crane said:


> They look great.
> Would you consider placing the t1 in your theater temporarily just to see how it looks on a non-UST screen in a light controlled room?


Maybe at some point, but for now, don't want to mess with it and incur the wrath of my wife and kids, since it's their living room TV!


----------



## ba_crane

m0j0 said:


> Maybe at some point, but for now, don't want to mess with it and incur the wrath of my wife and kids, since it's their living room TV!


I get that. Would be nice to see for anyone in here considering the projector with a regular screen, so hopefully in the not too distant future. But that’s just me being hopeful.


----------



## m0j0

ba_crane said:


> I get that. Would be nice to see for anyone in here considering the projector with a regular screen, so hopefully in the not too distant future. But that’s just me being hopeful.


My HT screen is 1.2 or 1.3 gain so probably wouldn't be a good example at any rate.


----------



## zaselim

rjyap said:


> Here's my settings for firmware v1.4 using madVR v113.
> 
> Image Parameters --> Custom
> Brightness 50, Contrast 50, Saturation 50, Sharpness 10, Tone 50, Color Custom = Red Gain 1020, Green Gain 1024, Blue Gain 935, Dynamic Contrast = Off
> Brightness Mode = View Mode
> Play Settings --> HDMI --> 2.1
> 
> View attachment 3265365
> 
> View attachment 3265366
> 
> View attachment 3265360
> 
> View attachment 3265364
> 
> View attachment 3265362
> 
> View attachment 3265361
> 
> View attachment 3265363


Do the RGB gain sliders work on OFFICE Mode? On mine the sliders work on every mode but not on OFFICE Mode for some reason.


----------



## m0j0

zaselim said:


> Do the RGB gain sliders work on OFFICE Mode? On mine the sliders work on every mode but not on OFFICE Mode for some reason.


Good question.


----------



## JereyWolf

zaselim said:


> Do the RGB gain sliders work on OFFICE Mode? On mine the sliders work on every mode but not on OFFICE Mode for some reason.


On firmware 1.4xxx... I noticed that the RGB sliders in custom and the dynamic contrast setting only apply to certain brightness modes.


----------



## t333

Hello guys
im trying to setup my new T1 that i received about a week ago.[firmware vr 1.4.6.1938 ] I will appreciate all the guidance.
here is my setup, nvidia shield-->pioneer AVR [supports 4K HDR HDCP 2.2] --->T1
Q1)-How do i ensure im getting 4k signal, If i set HDMI to 2.0 in T1 settings i get max output 1080p in nvidia player.
-If i change to 2.1 in T1, i see 4k option in player, but says 4k, 59 fps HDR10 support only , there is a separate option to enable dolby vision, if i enable that, picture seems darker to me.For now i have disable it. what should be correct settings?.. by the way match content color space is already enabled.

Q2) why choosing warm color makes pic more greenish instead of light yellow?

Q3) is dynamic contrast should be ON or off on T1? i dont see it makes any noticeable different , may be im wrong.

Q4)If i go to T1 home page or input menu /change inputs.. seems like nvidia just goes to sleep mode showing a blue screen, and i have to press any button on nvidia sheild player to wake it up.Anyone else have this issue. ?


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

1.) @t333 on the Shield you may have to go into the "all resolutions" options to see what your looking for, it shows like the top 3 recommended settings, but it may not show you what you are looking for.
I can get 4K60 w/ DV on both HDMI 2.0 and 2.1 mode, and often have to switch between them due to the HDMI handshake issue.

3.) I think most people are prefering dynamic contrast off, but its personal choice. Sometimes it makes things "pop" but probably less accurate. 

4.) Turn off all the CEC and HDMI power settings on the projector and the shield.


----------



## t333

ViciousXUSMC said:


> 1.) @t333 on the Shield you may have to go into the "all resolutions" options to see what your looking for, it shows like the top 3 recommended settings, but it may not show you what you are looking for.
> I can get 4K60 w/ DV on both HDMI 2.0 and 2.1 mode, and often have to switch between them due to the HDMI handshake issue.
> *----->ok so best one would be to select HDMI 2.1 on T1, and 4k 60 with HDR10 and Dolby Vision support on player? correct?*
> 3.) I think most people are prefering dynamic contrast off, but its personal choice. Sometimes it makes things "pop" but probably less accurate.
> *OFF seemed better for me actually.*
> 4.) Turn off all the CEC and HDMI power settings on the projector and the shield.
> *--> on T1 i have disabled it, on shield i havn't , will try that and see.*


----------



## okvcos

m0j0 said:


> Did some experimenting with using 130 nits on the DV tab of the Vertex2 with my most recent settings. Seems to bring up the shadow detail a bit more from what I could see, so that's pretty good! Still experimenting with brightness and contrast though as there are some really dark scenes in Dune that look better bumping up brightness and bringing down contrast a little bit with this 130 nit setting, so trying to decide if those settings carry over to other content or not. In the meantime, here's a few pics.


Question: but if you increase the nits on the Vertex and decrease the contrast you don't get the same result ?
You are doing a great job. Thank you


----------



## m0j0

okvcos said:


> Question: but if you increase the nits on the Vertex and decrease the contrast you don't get the same result ?
> You are doing a great job. Thank you


In the initial test, I kept the settings as is and only increased Nits and that seemed to work well to bring out the extra shadow detail. However, I then tested the darkest scenes in Dune and a few other movies and found that adjusting up brightness and down contrast helped to make the really dark scenes more watchable, but not sure I want to use those settings for my primary as I really liked the look of keeping everything like it was but just bumping up the nits value on the DV tab. I was actually using the test content on Spears and Munsil to check and make sure it didn't cause me to crush white (the fence posts with snow on them is good for checking this).


----------



## Ricoflashback

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Almost positive you can hook up BT headphones, but not sure the performance (audio delay)
> I think I would much rather connect to the audio source rather than the display device (Your Denon X6700H)


Agreed but while we rent in a new state and look for a house, the home theater setup will be in storage - - including my Denon X6700H. Hence the need for a quiet, night time listening source. My cable and Nvidia Shield Pro will be connected to the Fengmi T1.


----------



## ACE844

Ricoflashback said:


> Agreed but while we rent in a new state and look for a house, the home theater setup will be in storage - - including my Denon X6700H. Hence the need for a quiet, night time listening source. My cable and Nvidia Shield Pro will be connected to the Fengmi T1.


You can always connect to the shield via BT with the headphones, that's what I do in similar situations


----------



## wltam

Talking about FW 1.4, can someone suggest some Vertex2 + T1 settings for SDR/HDR/DV? Given that we need to wait for FW 2.0?

And @m0j0 did you also try to configure Vertex2 + T1 for non DV content such as SDR/HDR?


----------



## m0j0

wltam said:


> Talking about FW 1.4, can someone suggest some Vertex2 + T1 settings for SDR/HDR/DV? Given that we need to wait for FW 2.0?
> 
> And @m0j0 did you also try to configure Vertex2 + T1 for non DV content such as SDR/HDR?


If you have a Vertex2 you don't need to wait for FW 2.0. You can get a good picture with what you've got. Have you seen my settings post on page 187 and given that a try? I don't recall what you had for a player though. I've had success with a Sony X800M2 blu ray player, an Apple TV 4k and a Roku Ultra, as all those can force DV so everything is always LLDV to the T1. If you have the Shield, then you will need to probably do a bit of switching around for DV vs. HDR/SDR content.


----------



## antjes

Ricoflashback said:


> Does the Fengmi T1 have any bluetooth headphone listening option or even a 3.5mm jack for audio (wired or attach a bluetooth wireless device? How well does it work?


I have V1.4 firmware and I dont have volume control when I connect my bluetooth headphones.
Can anyone confirm this point?

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## zaselim

JereyWolf said:


> On firmware 1.4xxx... I noticed that the RGB sliders in custom and the dynamic contrast setting only apply to certain brightness modes.


I am really confused now, my firmware is 2.0.0.2079 and it seems 2 or 3 issues I am having were present on original firmware but were fixed on 2.0. Were they fixed on the later updates came after 2079 or in 2079 as well.


----------



## zaselim

m0j0 said:


> Good question.


Does yours(rgb sliders) work on office mode? 
I just checked, sharpness and dynamic black(off by default) also don't work on office mode.


----------



## rjyap

Never try office mode so no idea. Can someone with firmware 2.0 try it?


----------



## donw

donw said:


> Well, my projector came in this afternoon. Thought I'd set it up on the wall until I get my screen in. Well, no matter how I adjust the legs, I cannot get the top part of the image to focus, and the bottom doesn't even look too focused. I tried adjusting focus, but it hardly did anything. This is all the way to the left, but going right doesn't adjust much either. Any suggestions?
> View attachment 3251517
> 
> 
> View attachment 3251518


Update. I received the new unit today, and everything seems to work! No more out of focus. I am pretty impressed with Chris Chen--she reimbursed my shipping of the old unit ($30 to her USA contact) through Alibaba and shipped the new unit as fast as shipping from China can be done with the new lock downs. Highly recommended!


----------



## m0j0

donw said:


> Update. I received the new unit today, and everything seems to work! No more out of focus. I am pretty impressed with Chris Chen--she reimbursed my shipping of the old unit ($30 to her USA contact) through Alibaba and shipped the new unit as fast as shipping from China can be done with the new lock downs. Highly recommended!


So happy for you!


----------



## donw

Couple of questions. 
1. I notice that when you make changes to the picture settings in the settings menu, those changes do not make it to the "in video" settings, and if you change them there, they do not make it back to the main menu. Not sure which one to believe. I do have the 1.5xxx version.
2. How do I tell what resolution (4k, 1080p) the projector is putting out? I remember the error discussed where the projector sometimes reverts to 1080p...but how do you tell?


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> So happy for you!


Thanks m0j0!


----------



## m0j0

donw said:


> Couple of questions.
> 1. I notice that when you make changes to the picture settings in the settings menu, those changes do not make it to the "in video" settings, and if you change them there, they do not make it back to the main menu. Not sure which one to believe. I do have the 1.5xxx version.
> 2. How do I tell what resolution (4k, 1080p) the projector is putting out? I remember the error discussed where the projector sometimes reverts to 1080p...but how do you tell?


Just switch back and forth between HDMI 2.0 and 2.1 and you will be sure.


----------



## swerlin1

After reading 207 pages I believe I am sold. Was going to order from nothingbutlabel, and they have an option to have the T1 calman calibrated? Anyone done this or is it worth the extra time and dollars? I havent seen any mention of anyone doing this or having done- thoughts appreciated..


----------



## m0j0

swerlin1 said:


> After reading 207 pages I believe I am sold. Was going to order from nothingbutlabel, and they have an option to have the T1 calman calibrated? Anyone done this or is it worth the extra time and dollars? I havent seen any mention of anyone doing this or having done- thoughts appreciated..


Welcome aboard then, and congrats on reading through the whole thread. That's a lot of work for sure!


----------



## ProjectionHead

humax said:


> Yes, these seem to be ALPD module's main strengths. Black levels and sharpness.


While I only played with it for a little while, I found the T1 to be way less sharp than the px1-pro directly next to it on an identical screen.
T1 was definitely in focus too.
@Dave Harper and I will be spending more time with it tomorrow and stacking it up against some other units too. Will be using Gregory’s or @m0j0 ‘s settings as well.
Ignore color shift of the images, camera couldn’t get it true to life when photographing both at same time (iPhone 12)


----------



## ProjectionHead

JereyWolf said:


> On firmware 1.4xxx... I noticed that the RGB sliders in custom and the dynamic contrast setting only apply to certain brightness modes.


I noticed the same, thought I was going crazy


----------



## m0j0

ProjectionHead said:


> While I only played with it for a little while, I found the T1 to be way less sharp than the px1-pro directly next to it on an identical screen.
> T1 was definitely in focus too.
> @Dave Harper and I will be spending more time with it tomorrow and stacking it up against some other units too. Will be using Gregory’s or @m0j0 ‘s settings as well.
> Ignore color shift of the images, camera couldn’t get it true to life when photographing both at same time (iPhone 12)
> View attachment 3265750


I do believe the focus is softer in the corners on the 1.4 firmware, so that Eagle would be in the worst spot to see focus. It is fixed in the version 2.0 firmware though and you can get a better, whole screen focus going. Also, all the built in modes are hot garbage in my opinion. Don't use Standard. Use a custom setting instead and use either View mode or Night mode. That will get you better color accuracy.


----------



## ProjectionHead

m0j0 said:


> I do believe the focus is softer in the corners on the 1.4 firmware, so that Eagle would be in the worst spot to see focus. It is fixed in the version 2.0 firmware though and you can get a better, whole screen focus going. Also, all the built in modes are hot garbage in my opinion. Don't use Standard. Use a custom setting instead and use either View mode or Night mode. That will get you better color accuracy.


The eagle spans half the screen and is softer throughout the entire image. This was just one photo; saw lack of sharpness consistently compared to other unit and in all picture modes.
Will keep playing with it and get that firmware update asap to see how it affects it.


----------



## zaselim

donw said:


> Update. I received the new unit today, and everything seems to work! No more out of focus. I am pretty impressed with Chris Chen--she reimbursed my shipping of the old unit ($30 to her USA contact) through Alibaba and shipped the new unit as fast as shipping from China can be done with the new lock downs. Highly recommended!


What was your issue with the focus? I am asking because my t1 has a top left corner is out of focus to some extent and i am on firmware 2.0 which i hear dont have or fixed the focus problem.
I got it from wupro and they gave me the discounted price of 2439 including shipping. I am thinking of sending it back but they are telling me that they will not reimburse my shipping cost because of the discounted price.
At what price and from where did you get your T1?


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

ProjectionHead said:


> The eagle spans half the screen and is softer throughout the entire image. This was just one photo; saw lack of sharpness consistently compared to other unit and in all picture modes.
> Will keep playing with it and get that firmware update asap to see how it affects it.


@ProjectionHead
Hey Brian, I know this has been a bit of a process for you, first unit DOA, now waiting for the firmware fixes, so thanks for hanging in there on behalf of the community. I'm sure there are a lot of forum members (myself included!) that will be interested in your findings on your current T1 as well as the International / Global Version you're anticipating later this month.


----------



## m0j0

zaselim said:


> What was your issue with the focus? I am asking because my t1 has a top left corner is out of focus to some extent and i am on firmware 2.0 which i hear dont have or fixed the focus problem.
> I got it from wupro and they gave me the discounted price of 2439 including shipping. I am thinking of sending it back but they are telling me that they will not reimburse my shipping cost because of the discounted price.
> At what price and from where did you get your T1?


Actually, I think it was a later version of the 2.0 firmware that you have that gives better focus controls.


----------



## m0j0

For anyone interested, here's my latest and greatest LLDV calibration effort. This is with the DV tab at 130 nits on the Vertex2. Tested across the Roku, Z9X and Sony blu-ray player with very solid results.

Brightness: View Mode
Custom Color:
Red: 903
Green: 1024
Blue: 944


----------



## jeff9n

ba_crane said:


> I get that. Would be nice to see for anyone in here considering the projector with a regular screen, so hopefully in the not too distant future. But that’s just me being hopeful.


Here is the T1 on a Silver Ticket 150-inch Grey Screen with 1.1 gain


----------



## donw

Here are a few pics of the T1 with about a 120" image on my VERY uneven wall. A couple of lights are on in adjacent room, too. The player is an UGOOS AM6B Plus android box in LLDV mode. In DV mode, I saw the red faces, but LLDV fixed that. With non DV sources, I tried some of the settings suggested by M0j0, but the whites were blown out (probably lack of a screen). But the UGOOS can force LLDV mode on all material, so I'm seeing images similar to these on non DV sources.
.EDIT: Okay, it was SD sources that had whites blown out. HDR sources with M0j0's settings looked about the same as DV sources using LLDV.


----------



## humax

ProjectionHead said:


> While I only played with it for a little while, I found the T1 to be way less sharp than the px1-pro directly next to it on an identical screen.
> T1 was definitely in focus too.



Like others have mentioned, it would be best to wait for FengOS 2.0 to be released, before making a final assessment, good or bad.

I also have no intention of doubting what you saw, however I have read every Gregory review and not once has he mentioned graininess/softness/lack of resolution in his standard 4k patterns with any ALPD model. Here what he saw with his T1 on the initial firmware:

"The T1 has, like its predecessors, an electronic trapeze management. For my part, I don't care because the new Fengmi is easily positioned with my CLR Vividstorm screen deployed. In these conditions, the precision obtained is perfect on the 4K test patterns as well as on the internal focus pattern of the projector from one end of the screen to the other and this without chromatic aberrations. In the land of the poorly lit, the claims that the T1 image is blurred or too soft are, in my opinion, false, but in order to realize this, one must first remove the keystone correction."


I don't believe he has reviewed the new Hisense, however he was not impressed with the image accuracy of an older model. I am quoting again just for reference:

Test Hisense 88L5VG Laser TV : l’avis de Grégory. – – Le Blog de PHC – (passionhomecinema.fr) 

*Sharpness, sharpness and uniformity:*

"I did not manage to get a perfect 1:1 mapping between the source and the projector, the streaks present in the test image attest to this. The image accuracy offered by the Hisense does not equal that of the best DLP in this field. The geometric correction of the image and an always active video processing seem to me to be responsible."

He seems to suggest some kind of image enhancement/sharpening is always present with this one. Could this be the case with the newer model? Again, not trying to be controversial, just playing the devil's advocate here.

As for the rest, it is quite clear to me, the T1 needs a proper CMS in order to be considered a serious HT projector and step it up a level. A contrast gain alone is not enough for a demanding user, if he cannot get a calibrator to get the colors perfectly dialed in.


----------



## rjyap

ProjectionHead said:


> While I only played with it for a little while, I found the T1 to be way less sharp than the px1-pro directly next to it on an identical screen.
> T1 was definitely in focus too.
> @Dave Harper and I will be spending more time with it tomorrow and stacking it up against some other units too. Will be using Gregory’s or @m0j0 ‘s settings as well.
> Ignore color shift of the images, camera couldn’t get it true to life when photographing both at same time (iPhone 12)


I just quoted in AWOL 3500 thread. Try use custom settings and lower the sharpness to around 10. I check with test pattern and PC picture/text, any settings above 10 will make the PQ grainy like over sharpen effect which destroy the details in the image.
Here’s the photo to show sharpness at 10 and 50. I zoom in and try to focus on the select all blue windows. The edge color is well define deep blue when set to 10 while at 50 the grey destroy the sharp border.


----------



## Ricoflashback

jeff9n said:


> Here is the T1 on a Silver Ticket 150-inch Grey Screen with 1.1 gain
> 
> View attachment 3265811


I think your picture validates the non requirement of a UST ALR screen for the Fengmi T1 projector, especially if you are viewing content in very low light conditions. You even have a white ceiling if I can see correctly. A gray screen will probably pull out the best blacks and a so called “regular“ screen that is gray with ALR properties and a higher gain will work as well. Please keep in mind that these statements might not be true, screen wise, for other UST projectors that don‘t have the ALPD 4.0 technology behind them with its brilliant colors, black levels and lack of gas, mist, haze and fog.

Lastly - I’m sold on the Vertex 2 as a way to handle DTM to bring out the very best in the Fengmi T1. Besides, with m0j0 tweaking the V2 picture weekly (daily?,) it’s like having a dedicated calibrator at your home.


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

Ricoflashback said:


> Lastly - I’m sold on the Vertex 2 as a way to handle DTM to bring out the very best in the Fengmi T1. Besides, with m0j0 tweaking the V2 picture weekly (daily?,) it’s like having a dedicated calibrator at your home.


Love this! Yeah, @m0j0 has been great... Fengmi should consider adding him to their payroll!!

For what it's worth, I've also got a Vertex2 and find it to be incredibly useful. For anyone put off for feeling it's difficult or complicated to setup, don't be. It's really a snap to use.


----------



## xrayg1971

m0j0 said:


> If you have a Vertex2 you don't need to wait for FW 2.0. You can get a good picture with what you've got. Have you seen my settings post on page 187 and given that a try? I don't recall what you had for a player though. I've had success with a Sony X800M2 blu ray player, an Apple TV 4k and a Roku Ultra, as all those can force DV so everything is always LLDV to the T1. If you have the Shield, then you will need to probably do a bit of switching around for DV vs. HDR/SDR content.


Mojo let me ask this about the vertex2 ... because i def want the best pic possible ..right now i watch mostly my cable box and nv shield box both of these go into my onkyo tx-nr747 av receiver then out to my tv ...the onkyo is a few years old but is hdcp 2.2. and that handles all my switching (both boxes into av rec then hdmi out to tv.proj) . if i get this vertex2 is the correct setup .. all boxes input into vertex 2 ... do all the setting there in the webserver then that outputs to the av rec (onkyo) then that outputs to the projector?


----------



## xrayg1971

swerlin1 said:


> After reading 207 pages I believe I am sold. Was going to order from nothingbutlabel, and they have an option to have the T1 calman calibrated? Anyone done this or is it worth the extra time and dollars? I havent seen any mention of anyone doing this or having done- thoughts appreciated..


i ordered mine through chris chen ... overall good service and fast shipping fair price ..


----------



## JereyWolf

rjyap said:


> I just quoted in AWOL 3500 thread. Try use custom settings and lower the sharpness to around 10. I check with test pattern and PC picture/text, any settings above 10 will make the PQ grainy like over sharpen effect which destroy the details in the image.
> Here’s the photo to show sharpness at 10 and 50. I zoom in and try to focus on the select all blue windows. The edge color is well define deep blue when set to 10 while at 50 the grey destroy the sharp border.
> 
> 
> View attachment 3265835
> 
> View attachment 3265836


Thanks for the tip here! I'm looking forward to trying this later today. 
Sharpness around text is the one thing that I've been disappointed with so far on this projector....but this may be the solution.


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> If you have a Vertex2 you don't need to wait for FW 2.0. You can get a good picture with what you've got. Have you seen my settings post on page 187 and given that a try? I don't recall what you had for a player though. I've had success with a Sony X800M2 blu ray player, an Apple TV 4k and a Roku Ultra, as all those can force DV so everything is always LLDV to the T1. If you have the Shield, then you will need to probably do a bit of switching around for DV vs. HDR/SDR content.


I have the Nvidia Shield Pro. Keep the same settings you suggest with the V2 for DV but have a different profile for HDR/SDR content? How about the use of AI with the Shield? On or off? I find the Nvidia Shield Pro to be the easiest streamer to work with and by far the best remote - backlit and easy to navigate.


----------



## m0j0

Here's a quick comparison shot of what I see on Netflix on my PC (HD signal), and what I got off the screen from the T1 (LLDV)

Netflix HD:









T1:









Edit: Check the attached files instead. I just realized that if I insert the picture vs. attach the picture, they look different. The attached picture looks correct. For whatever reason, when I insert the picture it looks either too saturated (the T1 pic) or not saturated enough (the HD pic). I am using the Netflix HD pic from my PC as kind of a reference point so it's supposed to look pretty good. So, instead of looking at the inserted pictures above, just open the attachments instead.


----------



## zaselim

m0j0 said:


> Actually, I think it was a later version of the 2.0 firmware that you have that gives better focus controls.


So it was fixed in version after the 2079, right. Thanks for clarifying.


----------



## xrayg1971

m0j0 said:


> Here's a quick comparison shot of what I see on Netflix on my PC (HD signal), and what I got off the screen from the T1 (LLDV)
> 
> Netflix HD:
> View attachment 3265839
> 
> 
> T1:
> View attachment 3265840


huge diff ... but cant really compare a hd screen to the black's and contrast of a projector ..t1 holds it own


----------



## zaselim

rjyap said:


> I just quoted in AWOL 3500 thread. Try use custom settings and lower the sharpness to around 10. I check with test pattern and PC picture/text, any settings above 10 will make the PQ grainy like over sharpen effect which destroy the details in the image.
> Here’s the photo to show sharpness at 10 and 50. I zoom in and try to focus on the select all blue windows. The edge color is well define deep blue when set to 10 while at 50 the grey destroy the sharp border.
> 
> 
> View attachment 3265835
> 
> View attachment 3265836


Can you plz share your full custom settings you are using for the view mode?


----------



## m0j0

zaselim said:


> Can you plz share your full custom settings you are using for the view mode?


Here you go:








Formovie Fengmi T1


I do believe the focus is softer in the corners on the 1.4 firmware, so that Eagle would be in the worst spot to see focus. It is fixed in the version 2.0 firmware though and you can get a better, whole screen focus going. Also, all the built in modes are hot garbage in my opinion. Don't use...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## rjyap

zaselim said:


> Can you plz share your full custom settings you are using for the view mode?


please check a few pages before. I posted the SDR settings with MadVR. It’s not for direct HDR output due to v1.4 tone mapping issue.


----------



## zaselim

m0j0 said:


> Here you go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Formovie Fengmi T1
> 
> 
> I do believe the focus is softer in the corners on the 1.4 firmware, so that Eagle would be in the worst spot to see focus. It is fixed in the version 2.0 firmware though and you can get a better, whole screen focus going. Also, all the built in modes are hot garbage in my opinion. Don't use...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


Yeah i tried yours, the 82 contrast was too much for me lol I was trying the contrast last night and i think above 52-53 i started to loose detail in the clouds and lighter color(white, off white like) buildings. Actually i really like office mode but i can't change rgb gain in it, the view mode is less bright then office mode and i was trying to set it as close to office mode but was not getting it properly.
Rjyap uses PC like me, so his settings will really be helpful, i gpu has only 1 hdmi port so in orderd a dp to hdmi cable for my TV. I think it will be help full to use a multiple displays that way i can take a picture of office mode and then try to set the view mode to as close as possible. I am gonna look back few pages to see his settings.
Thanks.


----------



## m0j0

zaselim said:


> Yeah i tried yours, the 82 contrast was too much for me lol I was trying the contrast last night and i think above 52-53 i started to loose detail in the clouds and lighter color(white, off white like) buildings. Actually i really like office mode but i can't change rgb gain in it, the view mode is less bright then office mode and i was trying to set it as close to office mode but was not getting it properly.
> Rjyap uses PC like me, so his settings will really be helpful, i gpu has only 1 hdmi port so in orderd a dp to hdmi cable for my TV. I think it will be help full to use a multiple displays that way i can take a picture of office mode and then try to set the view mode to as close as possible. I am gonna look back few pages to see his settings.
> Thanks.


Yeah, I'm sure you will like Riyap's settings much better with your config!


----------



## rooterha

One thing I will give Brian is I DO think the L9G is sharper. It was just so perfectly sharp across 100% of the image for me at 100" it was crazy. Probably the sharpest projector I've ever seen to the point that I figured Hisense has some kind of voodoo there that nobody else can duplicate in the UST space.

The T1 is not as sharp, it's probably like 90-95% as sharp

However, this is something I only notice standing a couple feet from the screen. From viewing distance, they look identical in terms of sharpness and the T1 is superior in just about every other way. Like, if I had to go back to the L9G now I would hate watching any movie that isn't very bright.


----------



## xrayg1971

rooterha said:


> One thing I will give Brian is I DO think the L9G is sharper. It was just so perfectly sharp across 100% of the image for me at 100" it was crazy. Probably the sharpest projector I've ever seen to the point that I figured Hisense has some kind of voodoo there that nobody else can duplicate in the UST space.
> 
> The T1 is not as sharp, it's probably like 90-95% as sharp
> 
> However, this is something I only notice standing a couple feet from the screen. From viewing distance, they look identical in terms of sharpness and the T1 is superior in just about every other way. Like, if I had to go back to the L9G now I would hate watching any movie that isn't very bright.


ill take 90-95% of that sharpness of the l9g for 1/2 the price lol .. just sayiin lol


----------



## xrayg1971

just asked chris chen about the firmware upgrade and i was told it will be avail at the end of the month


----------



## t333

Hi Guys
as in few last posts i mentioned i received unit with damage/misaligned ports, after talking with jason from wupro i was able to get some discount finally.
Anyway im still playing with different picture settings..i was using office mode before, and as i mention in my last post choosing color temp warm was making everything geenish...im now using view mode which now i like better,it makes pic little dim but i have more control over color/RGB settings.

I also did side -by-side comparison with my old VAVA 4k and There is one thing i noticed. as you can see below on same XY screen VAVA picture was more vibrant [color just pop] and more warmer and sharper than T1.[its much more noticeable if looking in person ] on T1 colors were darker, although there was shadow detail in darker areas. Im not sure if that is due to keystone_[because i had to make the screen smaller in order to fit display_].
I tried to match the picture, but wasn't able to do so.
my settings on T1 are: B=53 C=48 Sat=50 Sharpness=35 color custom Dynamic Contrast off on VAVA most settings are around 50/default, just i keep color temp to warm










@driege : since you have both units like me. Do you feel same if you compare them that VAVA is more sharper and colors pop out?


----------



## Ricoflashback

t333 said:


> Hi Guys
> as in few last posts i mentioned i received unit with damage/misaligned ports, after talking with jason from wupro i was able to get some discount finally.
> Anyway im still playing with different picture settings..i was using office mode before, and as i mention in my last post choosing color temp warm was making everything geenish...im now using view mode which now i like better,it makes pic little dim but i have more control over color/RGB settings.
> 
> I also did side -by-side comparison with my old VAVA 4k and There is one thing i noticed. as you can see below on same XY screen VAVA picture was more vibrant [color just pop] and more warmer and sharper than T1.[its much more noticeable if looking in person ] on T1 colors were darker, although there was shadow detail in darker areas. Im not sure if that is due to keystone_[because i had to make the screen smaller in order to fit displays both projectors_].
> I tried to match the picture, but wasn't able to do so.
> my settings on T1 are: B=53 C=48 Sat=50 Sharpness=35 color custom Dynamic Contrast off on VAVA most settings are around 50
> View attachment 3265909
> 
> 
> 
> @driege : since you have both units like me. Do you feel same if you compare them that VAVA is more sharper and colors pop out?


It would be interesting to see if m0j0 can access the picture/content you have and provide the same shot. I suspect that your colors are not dialed in as well as m0j0's is, especially with the Vertex 2 in the chain. 

No fault of yours, by the way, and maybe there are some "out of the box" settings that can be tweaked based on other users guidance. Source of content? How displayed? (Cable/satellite/streamer/OTA/Bluray Player)


----------



## wltam

Please remove this post if not allowed but Amazon is running warehouse deals today (EU; -20%) and I managed to get a Vertex2 with a lot of discount


----------



## rooterha

xrayg1971 said:


> ill take 90-95% of that sharpness of the l9g for 1/2 the price lol .. just sayiin lol


Absolutely - I mean like I said I could never go back to the L9G now but it has it's strong points for sure.


----------



## rooterha

t333 said:


> Hi Guys
> as in few last posts i mentioned i received unit with damage/misaligned ports, after talking with jason from wupro i was able to get some discount finally.
> Anyway im still playing with different picture settings..i was using office mode before, and as i mention in my last post choosing color temp warm was making everything geenish...im now using view mode which now i like better,it makes pic little dim but i have more control over color/RGB settings.
> 
> I also did side -by-side comparison with my old VAVA 4k and There is one thing i noticed. as you can see below on same XY screen VAVA picture was more vibrant [color just pop] and more warmer and sharper than T1.[its much more noticeable if looking in person ] on T1 colors were darker, although there was shadow detail in darker areas. Im not sure if that is due to keystone_[because i had to make the screen smaller in order to fit display_].
> I tried to match the picture, but wasn't able to do so.
> my settings on T1 are: B=53 C=48 Sat=50 Sharpness=35 color custom Dynamic Contrast off on VAVA most settings are around 50/default, just i keep color temp to warm
> View attachment 3265909
> 
> 
> 
> @driege : since you have both units like me. Do you feel same if you compare them that VAVA is more sharper and colors pop out?


T1 picture looks much better to me from your comparison - but it's always hard to tell because the camera doesn't capture what you see.


----------



## wltam

m0j0 said:


> If you have a Vertex2 you don't need to wait for FW 2.0. You can get a good picture with what you've got. Have you seen my settings post on page 187 and given that a try? I don't recall what you had for a player though. I've had success with a Sony X800M2 blu ray player, an Apple TV 4k and a Roku Ultra, as all those can force DV so everything is always LLDV to the T1. If you have the Shield, then you will need to probably do a bit of switching around for DV vs. HDR/SDR content.


I have a Shield so option to force DV here but now that I've managed to get a Vertex2, I am ready to try your settings in FW 1.4


----------



## rooterha

xrayg1971 said:


> just asked chris chen about the firmware upgrade and i was told it will be avail at the end of the month


Yeah - they kept saying end of March before but I'm hoping end of April is firm this time.


----------



## m0j0

wltam said:


> Please remove this post if not allowed but Amazon is running warehouse deals today (EU; -20%) and I managed to get a Vertex2 with a lot of discount


That's a good score! I got mine on Black Friday for 25% off, so pretty close!


----------



## m0j0

wltam said:


> I have a Shield so option to force DV here but now that I've managed to get a Vertex2, I am ready to try your settings in FW 1.4


You might consider also buying the latest Roku Ultra. It's about a hundred dollars, but it can force all content to DV/LLDV vs. the Shield which can only play native DV and can't force HDR or SDR to DV/LLDV.


----------



## wltam

m0j0 said:


> You might consider also buying the latest Roku Ultra. It's about a hundred dollars, but it can force all content to DV/LLDV vs. the Shield which can only play native DV and can't force HDR or SDR to DV/LLDV.


I cant get a Roku Ultra in my country


----------



## Ricoflashback

wltam said:


> Please remove this post if not allowed but Amazon is running warehouse deals today (EU; -20%) and I managed to get a Vertex2 with a lot of discount


Sadly - no such deal in the U.S. that I can see. It looks like the Vertex 2 is the poor man's version (although not that cheap!) of DTM that high end projectors like JVC have. Or, the "Scene Adaptive Gamma" that the new Epson 12000 has. If it can squeeze every ounce of picture quality out of ANY projector, then it's worth it. Not trying to derail the Fengmi T1 thread. But it's become apparent that the lower cost PJ's can benefit from a device like this.


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> You might consider also buying the latest Roku Ultra. It's about a hundred dollars, but it can force all content to DV/LLDV vs. the Shield which can only play native DV and can't force HDR or SDR to DV/LLDV.


But with the Vertex 2, that problem is solved with DV and HDR/SDR to DV/LLDV, correct? Any change in settings on the V2?


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> Sadly - no such deal in the U.S. that I can see. It looks like the Vertex 2 is the poor man's version (although not that cheap!) of DTM that high end projectors like JVC have. Or, the "Scene Adaptive Gamma" that the new Epson 12000 has. If it can squeeze every ounce of picture quality out of ANY projector, than it's worth it. Not trying to derail the Fengmi T1 thread. But it's become apparent that the lower cost PJ's can benefit from a device like this.


Even the higher cost ones can, like my Sony 4k projector.


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> But with the Vertex 2, that problem is solved with DV and HDR/SDR to DV/LLDV, correct? Any change in settings on the V2?


Not for the Shield. The Vertex2 requires a player that send it a DV signal. The Shield can do that for native DV, but not for SDR/HDR content. Other devices can force all content to DV, such as the ATV4k, Roku Ultra, Zidoo Z9X, Sony X800M2, etc.


----------



## zaselim

donw said:


> Here are a few pics of the T1 with about a 120" image on my VERY uneven wall. A couple of lights are on in adjacent room, too. The player is an UGOOS AM6B Plus android box in LLDV mode. In DV mode, I saw the red faces, but LLDV fixed that. With non DV sources, I tried some of the settings suggested by M0j0, but the whites were blown out (probably lack of a screen). But the UGOOS can force LLDV mode on all material, so I'm seeing images similar to these on non DV sources.
> .EDIT: Okay, it was SD sources that had whites blown out. HDR sources with M0j0's settings looked about the same as DV sources using LLDV.
> View attachment 3265812
> 
> View attachment 3265813
> 
> View attachment 3265814
> 
> View attachment 3265815
> 
> View attachment 3265816
> 
> View attachment 3265817


What TW season 2 episode is this, i wanna compare the resuslt of my current settings.
I have watched 4 episodes and it looks awesome, the details, colors and contrast are really great.


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> Not for the Shield. The Vertex2 requires a player that send it a DV signal. The Shield can do that for native DV, but not for SDR/HDR content. Other devices can force all content to DV, such as the ATV4k, Roku Ultra, Zidoo Z9X, Sony X800M2, etc.


So, I can get picture improvement on the native DV "Shield" content with the Vertex 2 but not SDR/HDR content via the Shield, which cannot force DV. For that, I would need the Roku Ultra AND this only applies to streaming SDR/HDR content, correct?

For a plain old cable (1080p) signal (upscaled and from my AVR-Denon X6700H) - does the V2 provide any benefits at all? Or just a plain pass through? Thx.


----------



## t333

rooterha said:


> T1 picture looks much better to me from your comparison - but it's always hard to tell because the camera doesn't capture what you see.


true, plus more noticeable on green , so i captured scenes with more green in it...but speaking of sharpess , if you look at lizard neck scales you will notice scales are less detailed/sharp then VAVA.


----------



## donw

zaselim said:


> What TW season 2 episode is this, i wanna compare the resuslt of my current settings.
> I have watched 4 episodes and it looks awesome, the details, colors and contrast are really great.


Episode 6 Dear Friend


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> So, I can get picture improvement on the native DV "Shield" content with the Vertex 2 but not SDR/HDR content via the Shield, which cannot force DV. For that, I would need the Roku Ultra AND this only applies to streaming SDR/HDR content, correct?
> 
> For a plain old cable (1080p) signal (upscaled and from my AVR-Denon X6700H) - does the V2 provide any benefits at all? Or just a plain pass through? Thx.


So, the basic premise of the Vertex2 is to send an EDID that tells the display that a player led DV signal is coming and tells the player to send the DV signal to the display. Then the player does it's DV stuff, which results in a sort of dynamically tone mapped image. If the player can't force DV or otherwise send a Native DV/LLDV signal, then the Vertex2 trick doesn't work, as the Vertex2 does no processing on it's own.

For the cable, that again would depend on the player. I have a digital OTA tuner (silicondust HDHomeRun) and it has an app that can be played/used on the Roku, so when I play something from that, in theory, it should convert it to LLDV just like everything else from the Roku. Not sure what player you have or are using for your cable so can't say for sure.


----------



## zaselim

donw said:


> Episode 6 Dear Friend


Thanks.


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> Here's a quick comparison shot of what I see on Netflix on my PC (HD signal), and what I got off the screen from the T1 (LLDV)
> 
> Netflix HD:
> View attachment 3265839
> 
> 
> T1:
> View attachment 3265914
> 
> 
> Edit: Check the attached files instead. I just realized that if I insert the picture vs. attach the picture, they look different. The attached picture looks correct. For whatever reason, when I insert the picture it looks either too saturated (the T1 pic) or not saturated enough (the HD pic). I am using the Netflix HD pic from my PC as kind of a reference point so it's supposed to look pretty good. So, instead of looking at the inserted pictures above, just open the attachments instead.


Is that PC shot just HD but not HDR10?


----------



## m0j0

donw said:


> Is that PC shot just HD but not HDR10?


Correct, just HD, but on a really good LG monitor and a Radeon RX 6700 XT (default video profile)


----------



## humax

rooterha said:


> The T1 is not as sharp, it's probably like 90-95% as sharp




Probably the anti/reduce-speckle LPSE technology employed by the T1 has something to do with a slight softening of the image just like it was originally suspected by some members here. Was speckle also more pronounced in the Hisense than the Fengmi?


----------



## m0j0

So, was testing out a new photo app on my iPhone last night. Don't really like how the pictures turned out (kinda soft and lacking detail), but some of the color and shadow details were pretty good, so here you go:


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> So, the basic premise of the Vertex2 is to send an EDID that tells the display that a player led DV signal is coming and tells the player to send the DV signal to the display. Then the player does it's DV stuff, which results in a sort of dynamically tone mapped image. If the player can't force DV or otherwise send a Native DV/LLDV signal, then the Vertex2 trick doesn't work, as the Vertex2 does no processing on it's own.
> 
> For the cable, that again would depend on the player. I have a digital OTA tuner (silicondust HDHomeRun) and it has an app that can be played/used on the Roku, so when I play something from that, in theory, it should convert it to LLDV just like everything else from the Roku. Not sure what player you have or are using for your cable so can't say for sure.


What happens if you hook up the Roku configured for "everything LLDV" directly to the Fengmi?


----------



## m0j0

donw said:


> What happens if you hook up the Roku configured for "everything LLDV" directly to the Fengmi?


Then it will use the built-in, display led, native DV.


----------



## rooterha

humax said:


> Probably the anti/reduce-speckle LPSE technology employed by the T1 has something to do with a slight softening of the image just like it was originally suspected by some members here. Was speckle also more pronounced in the Hisense than the Fengmi?


Definitely - never noticed it with the t1 a single time


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> So, was testing out a new photo app on my iPhone last night. Don't really like how the pictures turned out (kinda soft and lacking detail), but some of the color and shadow details were pretty good, so here you go:
> 
> View attachment 3265938
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3265939
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3265940
> 
> 
> View attachment 3265941
> 
> 
> View attachment 3265942
> 
> 
> View attachment 3265943


Yeah, but how does it compare to the PX1-PRO? Just kidding, Brian, I think...

The shadow detail is awesome. And something, I bet, that cannot be duplicated with "out of the box" Fengmi T1 settings. Maybe get close with the latest and greatest Fengmi T1 firmware update?


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> Then it will use the built-in, display led, native DV.


That has me confused because of what I was seeing from my Ugoos player connected to the T1 with the 1.4xxx FengOS. When I set the Ugoos to regular DV mode, I saw the red faces. When I set the Ugoos to LLDV mode, the T1 picture looked great. Not sure why.


----------



## humax

rooterha said:


> Definitely - never noticed it with the t1 a single time




So, the whole tri-laser thing is a balancing act of you win some, you lose some and one must judge each unit's general performance/impressions, before forming an educated opinion.


----------



## eezrider

donw said:


> That has me confused because of what I was seeing from my Ugoos player connected to the T1 with the 1.4xxx FengOS. When I set the Ugoos to regular DV mode, I saw the red faces. When I set the Ugoos to LLDV mode, the T1 picture looked great. Not sure why.


That's likely because LLDV is actually HDR10 in a DV envelope, so the T1 is not doing the DV-specific processing


----------



## oryschak

rooterha said:


> Definitely - never noticed it with the t1 a single time


Maybe I'm doing something wrong but speckle is quite pronounced on my T1, moreso than my Hisense L9G. It's particularly noticeable on red colors scenes where I notice the laser shimmer more than I notice the color itself. This is on a Grandview Dynamique with a .4 gain. I wish I could see a C2 in person - while I can't notice RBE, speckle is quite distracting and the reason I returned my LSP9T.


----------



## m0j0

donw said:


> That has me confused because of what I was seeing from my Ugoos player connected to the T1 with the 1.4xxx FengOS. When I set the Ugoos to regular DV mode, I saw the red faces. When I set the Ugoos to LLDV mode, the T1 picture looked great. Not sure why.


It might be similar to the Zidoo in that it can perform it's own LLDV trickery without the need for the Vertex2.


----------



## m0j0

oryschak said:


> Maybe I'm doing something wrong but speckle is quite pronounced on my T1, moreso than my Hisense L9G. It's particularly noticeable on red colors scenes where I notice the laser shimmer more than I notice the color itself. This is on a Grandview Dynamique with a .4 gain. I wish I could see a C2 in person - while I can't notice RBE, speckle is quite distracting and the reason I returned my LSP9T.


That was my initial impression of the T1 as well (with the red speckle), but after calibration I don't recall even noticing it anymore. I dialed back the red quite a bit on custom color and don't use office anymore but only view or night brightness, so some combination of that reduced/eliminated that for me.


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> Yeah, but how does it compare to the PX1-PRO? Just kidding, Brian, I think...
> 
> The shadow detail is awesome. And something, I bet, that cannot be duplicated with "out of the box" Fengmi T1 settings. Maybe get close with the latest and greatest Fengmi T1 firmware update?


Version 2.0 does a much better job on the native DV, but it's still not up to the level you can do with the Vertex2, at least not in my experience. Perhaps over time though.


----------



## humax

oryschak said:


> Maybe I'm doing something wrong but speckle is quite pronounced on my T1, moreso than my Hisense L9G. It's particularly noticeable on red colors scenes where I notice the laser shimmer more than I notice the color itself. This is on a Grandview Dynamique with a .4 gain. I wish I could see a C2 in person - while I can't notice RBE, speckle is quite distracting and the reason I returned my LSP9T.



I am confused. Isn't speckle easily seen by anyone unlike RBE? As for the C2, there is at least one user report of visible RBE to the point of being bothersome plus the lack of WCG. It may be a little sharper than the T1 though.


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> It might be similar to the Zidoo in that it can perform it's own LLDV trickery without the need for the Vertex2.


If you set up the Zidoo to "perform it's own LLDV trickery", does the T1 indicate DV mode? I ask because when my Ugoos is in LLDV mode, the picture is fixed, but the T1 still indicates DV mode.


----------



## oryschak

humax said:


> I am confused. Isn't speckle easily seen by anyone unlike RBE? As for the C2, there is at least one user report of visible RBE to the point of being bothersome plus the lack of WCG. It may be a little sharper than the T1 though.


Speckle and RBE seem to be consistent things people bring up with USTs - I was just making the point that RBE hasn't been an issue for me with any UST (though my wife notices it quite a bit).


----------



## oryschak

m0j0 said:


> That was my initial impression of the T1 as well (with the red speckle), but after calibration I don't recall even noticing it anymore. I dialed back the red quite a bit on custom color and don't use office anymore but only view or night brightness, so some combination of that reduced/eliminated that for me.


Thanks, that's really helpful feedback. I'm still on the 1938 firmware eagerly awaiting 2+. I'll keep playing with the calibration and will consider a Vertex2 if I can't dial things in on the new firmware.


----------



## ProjectionHead

humax said:


> I am confused. Isn't speckle easily seen by anyone unlike RBE? As for the C2, there is at least one user report of visible RBE to the point of being bothersome plus the lack of WCG. It may be a little sharper than the T1 though.


I've had people in the showroom not even notice the speckle on some units until it was pointed out, wheras speckle drives me nuts and I see it from a mile away. It also may not bother people as much as it does others. @oryschak - I see it a lot on the T1 as well.


----------



## m0j0

donw said:


> If you set up the Zidoo to "perform it's own LLDV trickery", does the T1 indicate DV mode? I ask because when my Ugoos is in LLDV mode, the picture is fixed, but the T1 still indicates DV mode.


So, I don't use the EDID editor on the Z9X as I already have the Vertex2, but if I didn't have the Vertex2, I could potentially use the EDID editor on the Z9X to perform the same function. If you are sending DV or LLDV to the T1 and it pops up with the Dolby Vision logo, then you are getting native display led DV from the T1 and not player led LLDV from the media player. If you are sending LLDV and the Dolby Vision logo isn't popping up on the T1, and you have full picture controls available on the T1, then you are sending player led LLDV / Custom HDR from the player.


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> So, I don't use the EDID editor on the Z9X as I already have the Vertex2, but if I didn't have the Vertex2, I could potentially use the EDID editor on the Z9X to perform the same function. If you are sending DV or LLDV to the T1 and it pops up with the Dolby Vision logo, then you are getting native display led DV from the T1 and not player led LLDV from the media player. If you are sending LLDV and the Dolby Vision logo isn't popping up on the T1, and you have full picture controls available on the T1, then you are sending player led LLDV / Custom HDR from the player.


I was afraid you would say that. So now I'm really confused. I can't figure out how LLDV fixed the red faces issue with FengOS 1.4xxx. I'll have to do some more experimenting tonight.


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> So, I don't use the EDID editor on the Z9X as I already have the Vertex2, but if I didn't have the Vertex2, I could potentially use the EDID editor on the Z9X to perform the same function. If you are sending DV or LLDV to the T1 and it pops up with the Dolby Vision logo, then you are getting native display led DV from the T1 and not player led LLDV from the media player. If you are sending LLDV and the Dolby Vision logo isn't popping up on the T1, and you have full picture controls available on the T1, then you are sending player led LLDV / Custom HDR from the player.


Another data point. When I have the Ugoos set to "always output LLDV", even with SD sources, the T1 displays DV...and the picture looks really great!


----------



## ACE844

m0j0 said:


> You might consider also buying the latest Roku Ultra. It's about a hundred dollars, but it can force all content to DV/LLDV vs. the Shield which can only play native DV and can't force HDR or SDR to DV/LLDV.


I might be wrong but can't you force HDR all the time under the display settings then custom settings where you can force the Chroma, color space and resolution to the display? I have 2160/60 422 BT2020 enabled this way.


----------



## m0j0

ACE844 said:


> I might be wrong but can't you force HDR all the time under the display settings then custom settings where you can force the Chroma, color space and resolution to the display? I have 2160/60 422 BT2020 enabled this way.


Are you talking about the Shield? It needs to be able to force all content to be displayed as DV, but it cannot do that to my knowledge. It would be an additional setting outside of the display resolution and color space.


----------



## JereyWolf

I can also see speckle, particularly in red on the T1...but I'd say it's roughly equivalent to the amount of speckle on the PX1 Pro.
It's not something that bothers me until I really start looking for it.


----------



## humax

JereyWolf said:


> I can also see speckle, particularly in red on the T1...but I'd say it's roughly equivalent to the amount of speckle on the PX1 Pro.
> It's not something that bothers me until I really start looking for it.



Do you have both projectors? Do you also see a sharpness advantage in the Hisense? Which one will you end up keeping? TIA!


----------



## Brajesh

So @ProjectionHead, we know you're still evaluating the T1, but being in your position, having the opportunity to check out a whole lotta UST's, which, in your assessment is the best overall (sharpness, colors, contrast, all key aspects considered) for under $3.5K street price?


----------



## ACE844

m0j0 said:


> Are you talking about the Shield? It needs to be able to force all content to be displayed as DV, but it cannot do that to my knowledge. It would be an additional setting outside of the display resolution and color space.


I cannot comment on forcing dv as the current display my 2019 shield pro is connected to ( shield pro to kinivio 550 switches to 2015 LG lcd ) does not support it. I'm still learning about all of this, but, it appears that I can force HDR and BT2020?


----------



## Aztar35

JereyWolf said:


> I can also see speckle, particularly in red on the T1...but I'd say it's roughly equivalent to the amount of speckle on the PX1 Pro.
> It's not something that bothers me until I really start looking for it.


The Laser C2 has zero speckle that I can see. 

I thought the Laser C2 was only a tad sharper than the PX1, if I recall, but that the PX1 had more natural-looking skin tones. It would be interesting to compare sharpness between the C2 and the T1. Perhaps someone who had both can comment.


----------



## JereyWolf

rjyap said:


> I just quoted in AWOL 3500 thread. Try use custom settings and lower the sharpness to around 10. I check with test pattern and PC picture/text, any settings above 10 will make the PQ grainy like over sharpen effect which destroy the details in the image.
> Here’s the photo to show sharpness at 10 and 50. I zoom in and try to focus on the select all blue windows. The edge color is well define deep blue when set to 10 while at 50 the grey destroy the sharp border.
> 
> 
> View attachment 3265835
> 
> View attachment 3265836


I wish I had better news, but for me the sharpness setting seems to have no effect.
Here you can see sharpness at 50 and 10 along with zoomed images of each. To me, they look the same.
@ACE844 photo above looks way sharper than mine does in person.
*edit* Turns out, that wasn't a photo of a T1 image. 

Side point...I really need the text to be sharp when in Game mode, because I use that most when connected to PC and looking at text, and sharpness is not adjustable on that preset.


----------



## ACE844

@jerewolf thats because my T1 hasn't arrived yet. The pic was of a led TV screen where I was guessing and asking that bt2020&her were being forced to that display from a 2019 shield pro under custom display settings.


----------



## JereyWolf

humax said:


> Do you have both projectors? Do you also see a sharpness advantage in the Hisense? Which one will you end up keeping? TIA!


I did have both projectors for a week. I sent the Hisense back. Part of that was due to its lower brightness...which didn't work out for me in my non-optimized living room with 0.4 gain screen. When I had them set up side by side comparing content, I never noticed one being less sharp. Even now, when watching something on the T1, I don't really consider the sharpness an issue; it's only when I'm using it as my PC monitor (looking at AVS) or in a menu/interface on the Shield where I'm looking at text that it annoys me.

I will say that the T1 has no chromatic aberration like I saw with the Hisense and Samsung. Instead though, my T1 has a hazy drop shadow around text.
T1 on the left and PX1-PRO on the right, single photo with no color adjustments.


----------



## m0j0

JereyWolf said:


> I did have both projectors for a week. I sent the Hisense back. Part of that was due to its lower brightness...which didn't work out for me in my non-optimized living room with 0.4 gain screen. When I had them set up side by side comparing content, I never noticed one being less sharp. Even now, when watching something on the T1, I don't really consider the sharpness an issue; it's only when I'm using it as my PC monitor (looking at AVS) or in a menu/interface on the Shield where I'm looking at text that it annoys me.
> 
> I will say that the T1 has no chromatic aberration like I saw with the Hisense and Samsung. Instead though, my T1 has a hazy drop shadow around text.
> T1 on the left and PX1-PRO on the right, single photo with no color adjustments.
> 
> View attachment 3266074


Just to clarify, are you on the 1.4 firmware? I have no issues with text being sharp/visible on mine, but I'm running the latest beta 2.0 version.


----------



## JereyWolf

ACE844 said:


> @werewolf thats because my T1 hasn't arrived yet. The pic was of a led TV screen where I was guessing and asking that bt2020&her were being forced to that display from a 2019 shield pro under custom display settings.


I edited my original post and user werewolf might be caught off guard by the tag, lol.


----------



## JereyWolf

m0j0 said:


> Just to clarify, are you on the 1.4 firmware? I have no issues with text being sharp/visible on mine, but I'm running the latest beta 2.0 version.


Yes, I'm still on that older firmware. I'm also assuming that most of us are still on the older firmware. 
I'm really hoping the focus/sharpness is improved as I've heard it is with 2.0.


----------



## m0j0

JereyWolf said:


> I edited my original post and user werewolf might be caught off guard by the tag, lol.


We'll probably be alright as long as it's not a full moon...


----------



## m0j0

JereyWolf said:


> Yes, I'm still on that older firmware. I'm also assuming that most of us are still on the older firmware.
> I'm really hoping the focus/sharpness is improved as I've heard it is with 2.0.


Yeah, with the old firmware, I didn' really notice much activity with the lens focus when I clicked left or right. With the updated firmware, you can really see some action when you go far left and then far right, especially in the corners, a lot more movement in fact, so I think you will be pretty happy once you get to work with the newer firmware version.


----------



## antjes

m0j0 said:


> So, I don't use the EDID editor on the Z9X as I already have the Vertex2, but if I didn't have the Vertex2, I could potentially use the EDID editor on the Z9X to perform the same function. If you are sending DV or LLDV to the T1 and it pops up with the Dolby Vision logo, then you are getting native display led DV from the T1 and not player led LLDV from the media player. If you are sending LLDV and the Dolby Vision logo isn't popping up on the T1, and you have full picture controls available on the T1, then you are sending player led LLDV / Custom HDR from the player.


m0j0, first of all, thanks for all your contributions.
Regarding to DV, I think you are wrong. When I send DV (TV led) or LLDV(player Led) from Oppo the Fengmi shows Dolby Vision logo on screen, and I can apreciate differences.
Maybe when you use LLDV you dont see Dolby logo because the Vertex sends HDR.
The behaviour of Fengmi is the same as my TV. 

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## donw

antjes said:


> m0j0, first of all, thanks for all your contributions.
> Regarding to DV, I think you are wrong. When I send DV (TV led) or LLDV(player Led) from Oppo the Fengmi shows Dolby Vision logo on screen, and I can apreciate differences.
> Maybe when you use LLDV you dont see Dolby logo because the Vertex sends HDR.
> The behaviour of Fengmi is the same as my TV.
> 
> Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


That is the way I thought the Vertex2 should work. M0j0, would you mind unhooking your Vertex2 and sending LLDV to the T1 from one of your players and see what happens?


----------



## m0j0

antjes said:


> m0j0, first of all, thanks for all your contributions.
> Regarding to DV, I think you are wrong. When I send DV (TV led) or LLDV(player Led) from Oppo the Fengmi shows Dolby Vision logo on screen, and I can apreciate differences.
> Maybe when you use LLDV you dont see Dolby logo because the Vertex sends HDR.
> The behaviour of Fengmi is the same as my TV.
> 
> Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


Stranger things have happened... 
All I know is that when I configure a player like my Sony X800M2 to use Dolby Vision and it's connected to my Vertex2, and I select the option to use custom HDR for TX0 and TX1 when input is LLDV, then the Dolby Vision logo does not show up on the T1 and I have access to all the normal controls. So, yes, it's sending a custom HDR signal to the T1 which is really the player led LLDV signal and doesn't engage DV on the T1.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Brajesh said:


> So @ProjectionHead, we know you're still evaluating the T1, but being in your position, having the opportunity to check out a whole lotta UST's, which, in your assessment is the best overall (sharpness, colors, contrast, all key aspects considered) for under $3.5K street price?


I haven't spent any more time with the T1 since I put it side by side with the PX1-Pro and that is the only side by side I've done so far with it. Based on that little shootout, I still have to give the win to the PX1-Pro, but I still need to (per all of the suggestions):
1) update the firmware on the T1
2) tweak the settings on the T1 per Gregory & @m0j0 's suggestions.
3) not use HDR if new firmware not available
4) not use DV content

to see if I can level the playing field. I won't have a chance to do so until next week and plan on having @Dave Harper work his magic on it to try and knock my socks off.

That being said, at the $3,500 and under MSRP price point (not allowed to talk pricing other than MSRP per AVS Forum rules), I still think it's the PX1-Pro so far (which is at the very top of the price range @ $3,499). While it may not have the same level of sequential contrast as the T1, it had an overall better image that _every single person_ who looked at agreed with.

Before the T1 brigade chases me out of town with torches and pitchforks, I am only saying this because you asked and I have full intentions of doing at least 1-4 above as well as with the incoming "International" unit and trying it with some additional content beyond Ready Player One & Planet Earth.

Any other suggestions that would let me see the T1 really shine vs the non alpd units?

I am only using physical media via the Panasonic UB9000 player and would really love for @Aztar35 to come on by and give y'all his opinions as well since he is such a big fan of the C2 and has experience with the PX1-Pro as well.... plus he is not affiliated with any stores or brands and has no skin in the game in any regard other than being a prolific contributor here on the forum (and an all around awesome guy).

Anyone else in the NJ/NY area want to join us for a little projector party in the showroom?


----------



## ProjectionHead

JereyWolf said:


> I did have both projectors for a week. I sent the Hisense back. Part of that was due to its lower brightness...which didn't work out for me in my non-optimized living room with 0.4 gain screen. When I had them set up side by side comparing content, I never noticed one being less sharp. Even now, when watching something on the T1, I don't really consider the sharpness an issue; it's only when I'm using it as my PC monitor (looking at AVS) or in a menu/interface on the Shield where I'm looking at text that it annoys me.
> 
> I will say that the T1 has no chromatic aberration like I saw with the Hisense and Samsung. Instead though, my T1 has a hazy drop shadow around text.
> T1 on the left and PX1-PRO on the right, single photo with no color adjustments.
> 
> View attachment 3266074


T1 definitely did not have the same CA that I saw on the PX1-Pro (which is supposedly being fixed via firmware update).
The PX1-Pro was not that red in person right? While I could photograph the T1 relatively accurately with my phone, the PX1-Pro had a crazy red shift in photos.


----------



## m0j0

ProjectionHead said:


> I haven't spent any more time with the T1 since I put it side by side with the PX1-Pro and that is the only side by side I've done so far with it. Based on that little shootout, I still have to give the win to the PX1-Pro, but I still need to (per all of the suggestions):
> 1) update the firmware on the T1
> 2) tweak the settings on the T1 per Gregory & @m0j0 's suggestions.
> 3) not use HDR if new firmware not available
> 4) not use DV content
> 
> to see if I can level the playing field. I won't have a chance to do so until next week and plan on having @Dave Harper work his magic on it to try and knock my socks off.
> 
> That being said, at the $3,500 and under MSRP price point (not allowed to talk pricing other than MSRP per AVS Forum rules), I still think it's the PX1-Pro so far (which is at the very top of the price range @ $3,499). While it may not have the same level of sequential contrast as the T1, it had an overall better image that _every single person_ who looked at agreed with.
> 
> Before the T1 brigade chases me out of town with torches and pitchforks, I am only saying this because you asked and I have full intentions of doing at least 1-4 above as well as with the incoming "International" unit and trying it with some additional content beyond Ready Player One & Planet Earth.
> 
> Any other suggestions that would let me see the T1 really shine vs the non alpd units?
> 
> I am only using physical media via the Panasonic UB9000 player and would really love for @Aztar35 to come on by and give y'all his opinions as well since he is such a big fan of the C2 and has experience with the PX1-Pro as well.... plus he is not affiliated with any stores or brands and has no skin in the game in any regard other than being a prolific contributor here on the forum (and an all around awesome guy).
> 
> Anyone else in the NJ/NY area want to join us for a little projector party in the showroom?


I seem to have misplaced my pitchfork… I’ll have to check and see if Amazon carries them…

All good man, you gotta call it the way you see it, no offense taken. And I’m sure @Dave Harper can do some magic with it if you let him do his thing!


----------



## JereyWolf

ProjectionHead said:


> T1 definitely did not have the same CA that I saw on the PX1-Pro (which is supposedly being fixed via firmware update).
> The PX1-Pro was not that red in person right? While I could photograph the T1 relatively accurately with my phone, the PX1-Pro had a crazy red shift in photos.


Yeah that photo I posted just shows exactly how the colors show up on the camera sensors. In person it was perfect  black and white. I actually chose that black and white image specifically so that color wasn't taken into consideration in the context of comparing sharpness.


----------



## xrayg1971

ProjectionHead said:


> T1 definitely did not have the same CA that I saw on the PX1-Pro (which is supposedly being fixed via firmware update).
> The PX1-Pro was not that red in person right? While I could photograph the T1 relatively accurately with my phone, the PX1-Pro had a crazy red shift in photos.


so you saying the ca is better than the t1 as it stands now !!! dammm


----------



## ProjectionHead

xrayg1971 said:


> so you saying the ca is better than the t1 as it stands now !!! dammm


I did not see any CA on the T1 but did on the PX1-Pro, but only around white text/lines.
There is a fix for the CA from
hisense but I haven’t applied it yet


----------



## m0j0

xrayg1971 said:


> so you saying the ca is better than the t1 as it stands now !!! dammm


Honestly, I would probably say the same thing if I was still on 1.4 and not using a Vertex2 with my T1.


----------



## m0j0

Also, was just looking at the T1 when my kids were watching True and the Rainbow Kingdom. True’s red belt and red trim on her skirt bottom used to really show a good amount of laser speckle, but now I don’t see any sign of it with the current settings I’m using for kids shows (custom color with red reduced and using view mode brightness with high contrast and low brightness picture settings). Really, the only time I used to see it was on really bright and colorful kids shows with a lot of red.

Edit: I did see it in the red ball on her head but I really have to look for it, so it’s not gone but definitely reduced from before.


----------



## gen_x

m0j0 said:


> Not for the Shield. The Vertex2 requires a player that send it a DV signal. The Shield can do that for native DV, but not for SDR/HDR content. Other devices can force all content to DV, such as the ATV4k, Roku Ultra, Zidoo Z9X, Sony X800M2, etc.


Can a windows htpc force DV as well?


----------



## m0j0

gen_x said:


> Can a windows htpc force DV as well?


No clue. If you can set it up to use MadVR then that would probably be a great setup.


----------



## Aztar35

ProjectionHead said:


> The PX1-Pro was not that red in person right? While I could photograph the T1 relatively accurately with my phone, the PX1-Pro had a crazy red shift in photos.


Going from memory, if anything, the PX1-Pro has more of a green push OOTB. My favorite thing with the PX1 though was actually not its wide color but its motion handling when using custom reduction judder @2 and Blur @2. Motion looked fantastic! That red shift is in photos with all RGB laser units I've seen that exceed 100% 2020 unless your camera compensates or you've cal'd the camera to compensate.


----------



## Aztar35

ProjectionHead said:


> I haven't spent any more time with the T1 since I put it side by side with the PX1-Pro and that is the only side by side I've done so far with it. Based on that little shootout, I still have to give the win to the PX1-Pro, but I still need to (per all of the suggestions):
> 1) update the firmware on the T1
> 2) tweak the settings on the T1 per Gregory & @m0j0 's suggestions.
> 3) not use HDR if new firmware not available
> 4) not use DV content
> 
> to see if I can level the playing field. I won't have a chance to do so until next week and plan on having @Dave Harper work his magic on it to try and knock my socks off.
> 
> That being said, at the $3,500 and under MSRP price point (not allowed to talk pricing other than MSRP per AVS Forum rules), I still think it's the PX1-Pro so far (which is at the very top of the price range @ $3,499). While it may not have the same level of sequential contrast as the T1, it had an overall better image that _every single person_ who looked at agreed with.
> 
> Before the T1 brigade chases me out of town with torches and pitchforks, I am only saying this because you asked and I have full intentions of doing at least 1-4 above as well as with the incoming "International" unit and trying it with some additional content beyond Ready Player One & Planet Earth.
> 
> Any other suggestions that would let me see the T1 really shine vs the non alpd units?
> 
> I am only using physical media via the Panasonic UB9000 player and would really love for @Aztar35 to come on by and give y'all his opinions as well since he is such a big fan of the C2 and has experience with the PX1-Pro as well.... plus he is not affiliated with any stores or brands and has no skin in the game in any regard other than being a prolific contributor here on the forum (and an all around awesome guy).
> 
> Anyone else in the NJ/NY area want to join us for a little projector party in the showroom?


Thanks for the kind words, Brian. I'll try to come for a quick visit one late afternoon, if my work schedule allows.

I'm excited to see the T1 and the LS12000. Regarding the T1, I know, unlike the C2, it has speckle, not quite as good sequential contrast, and may not be as sharp, but it has the wider color. C2's DV is just basically plug and play. But head-to-head, I think I would be able to see the difference between c. 82% P3 and 100% P3. Besides, for content graded beyond P3, machines like the T1 and other full RGB will resolve more color from the content so graded.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Aztar35 said:


> Thanks for the kind words, Brian. I'll try to come for a quick visit one late afternoon, if my work schedule allows.
> 
> I'm excited to see the T1 and the LS12000. Regarding the T1, I know, unlike the C2, it has speckle, not quite as good sequential contrast, and may not be as sharp, but it has the wider color. And head-to-head, I think I would be able to see the difference between c. 82% P3 and 100% P3. Besides, for content graded beyond P3, machines like the T1 and other full RGB will resolve more color from the content so graded.


Looking forward to your visit and opinions!


----------



## Aztar35

Brajesh said:


> So @ProjectionHead, we know you're still evaluating the T1, but being in your position, having the opportunity to check out a whole lotta UST's, which, in your assessment is the best overall (sharpness, colors, contrast, all key aspects considered) for under $3.5K street price?


I might visit their showroom. I will have to clear my mind of any presumptions regarding the T1 though because from the review and the posts here, I gather the T1's contrast will be excellent for the platform. Although contrast is one element that constitutes a good picture, make no mistake, it's a very important one, especially in the context of projection. But I'm going to look at everything and gauge the overall performance. 

The real question is I hope I can get to visit there soon.


----------



## JackB

xrayg1971 said:


> huge diff ... but cant really compare a hd screen to the black's and contrast of a projector ..t1 holds it own


Are you kidding? PC wins by a magnitude.


----------



## rjyap

ProjectionHead said:


> I haven't spent any more time with the T1 since I put it side by side with the PX1-Pro and that is the only side by side I've done so far with it. Based on that little shootout, I still have to give the win to the PX1-Pro, but I still need to (per all of the suggestions):
> 1) update the firmware on the T1
> 2) tweak the settings on the T1 per Gregory & @m0j0 's suggestions.
> 3) not use HDR if new firmware not available
> 4) not use DV content
> 
> to see if I can level the playing field. I won't have a chance to do so until next week and plan on having @Dave Harper work his magic on it to try and knock my socks off.
> 
> That being said, at the $3,500 and under MSRP price point (not allowed to talk pricing other than MSRP per AVS Forum rules), I still think it's the PX1-Pro so far (which is at the very top of the price range @ $3,499). While it may not have the same level of sequential contrast as the T1, it had an overall better image that _every single person_ who looked at agreed with.
> 
> Before the T1 brigade chases me out of town with torches and pitchforks, I am only saying this because you asked and I have full intentions of doing at least 1-4 above as well as with the incoming "International" unit and trying it with some additional content beyond Ready Player One & Planet Earth.
> 
> Any other suggestions that would let me see the T1 really shine vs the non alpd units?
> 
> I am only using physical media via the Panasonic UB9000 player and would really love for @Aztar35 to come on by and give y'all his opinions as well since he is such a big fan of the C2 and has experience with the PX1-Pro as well.... plus he is not affiliated with any stores or brands and has no skin in the game in any regard other than being a prolific contributor here on the forum (and an all around awesome guy).
> 
> Anyone else in the NJ/NY area want to join us for a little projector party in the showroom?


You are safe as I'm from another side of the world. Joke aside, I do appreciate your objective effort to do the comparison. No worry as most of us do not have brand loyalty, just looking for best price/performance and everyone have different priority in their next projector. I bought T1 fully aware that it have minimum adjustment to greyscale and no CMS. This would be the biggest con for this unit. Firmware v1.4 also have issue with HDR tone mapping and reddish DV. As a MadVR PC user, this is not a big concern as the color correction and tone mapping could be done from the source. From my observation coming from Optoma HD83, the T1 is sharper, higher contrast with very good black level (from DLP perspective) and WCG which make 4K movie a joy to watch.


----------



## jeff9n

Ricoflashback said:


> I think your picture validates the non requirement of a UST ALR screen for the Fengmi T1 projector, especially if you are viewing content in very low light conditions. You even have a white ceiling if I can see correctly. A gray screen will probably pull out the best blacks and a so called


You are correct. The walls and ceiling are white. I use a regular screen with UST for years in a light controlled room. It works great.


----------



## donw

This is from the same scene I posted earlier but with the FengOS 1.4xxx native DV--not my Ugoos LLDV. Note the red push, particularly in faces.


----------



## m0j0

It does seem that you guys are getting player led dv, so that is good to see. However, for me, it’s still not ideal as I assume you are losing picture controls on the T1.


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> It does seem that you guys are getting player led dv, so that is good to see. However, for me, it’s still not ideal as I assume you are losing picture controls on the T1.


That is correct. You like to tinker too much to live with out that


----------



## m0j0

So, tonight's adventure was an effort to get a bit better color balance on my T1. I had previously dropped the red down a bit to reduce the effect of laser speckle and it seemed to be working quite well. However, the blue and green colors were somewhat brighter and out of balance with the red. So, I loaded up some test patterns from Spears and Munsil and put up 100% red, then played with the levels to ensure that I had it set at a good place where laser speckle is low. I ended up liking where I had previously set it, so didn't adjust it further. Then I pulled up green and eventually blue 100% patterns and tried to adjust them by eye, trying to somewhat even out their brightness across all three colors. I then re-calibrated using the disc and came up with these settings:

Brightness Mode: View
Custom Color:
Red: 903
Green: 952
Blue: 872









In my testing, I really liked how natural the blues and greens are looking in comparison to how they may have seemed a bit over saturated before in comparison. Now everything looks even and natural and colorful in a more refined way. Very happy and pleased with how it came out to be honest.


----------



## mirzank

donw said:


> Here are a few pics of the T1 with about a 120" image on my VERY uneven wall. A couple of lights are on in adjacent room, too. The player is an UGOOS AM6B Plus android box in LLDV mode. In DV mode, I saw the red faces, but LLDV fixed that. With non DV sources, I tried some of the settings suggested by M0j0, but the whites were blown out (probably lack of a screen). But the UGOOS can force LLDV mode on all material, so I'm seeing images similar to these on non DV sources.
> .EDIT: Okay, it was SD sources that had whites blown out. HDR sources with M0j0's settings looked about the same as DV sources using LLDV.
> View attachment 3265812


looks great even though you say it’s on a very uneven wall. Maybe pictures are deceiving. In person do you notice the unevenness or bothered by it ? I also project on to a wall but it’s very new and flat so it’s not a problem; I want to get one for my other home where walls are less even wondering if the uneven wall bothers you


----------



## donw

mirzank said:


> looks great even though you say it’s on a very uneven wall. Maybe pictures are deceiving. In person do you notice the unevenness or bothered by it ? I also project on to a wall but it’s very new and flat so it’s not a problem; I want to get one for my other home where walls are less even wondering if the uneven wall bothers you


The wall was hand troweled to a semi smooth texture, but any texture is very noticeable because of the extreme angle of the projector. I am waiting on my 120" motorized ALR screen to arrive on the "slow boat from China"


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> So, tonight's adventure was an effort to get a bit better color balance on my T1. I had previously dropped the red down a bit to reduce the effect of laser speckle and it seemed to be working quite well. However, the blue and green colors were somewhat brighter and out of balance with the red. So, I loaded up some test patterns from Spears and Munsil and put up 100% red, then played with the levels to ensure that I had it set at a good place where laser speckle is low. I ended up liking where I had previously set it, so didn't adjust it further. Then I pulled up green and eventually blue 100% patterns and tried to adjust them by eye, trying to somewhat even out their brightness across all three colors. I then re-calibrated using the disc and came up with these settings:
> 
> Brightness Mode: View
> Custom Color:
> Red: 903
> Green: 952
> Blue: 872
> View attachment 3266242
> 
> 
> In my testing, I really liked how natural the blues and greens are looking in comparison to how they may have seemed a bit over saturated before in comparison. Now everything looks even and natural and colorful in a more refined way. Very happy and pleased with how it came out to be honest.


What, no requisite show photos?


----------



## azar777

guys, tell me, am I confused between choosing Samsung LSP9T or fengmi t1? I'm talking here and I understand that t1 is not a very good projector and that dv is just marketing from the Chinese. do I understand correctly that Samsung LSP9T is the best projector in the picture today?


----------



## antjes

m0j0 said:


> It does seem that you guys are getting player led dv, so that is good to see. However, for me, it’s still not ideal as I assume you are losing picture controls on the T1.


That’s right and for me this is the main mistake of Fengmi, they should let user decide what to do with settings under DV. I guess finally following yogur recomendations I will get Hdfury since I cant live without MEMC…..SOE fan….😬


----------



## AlexM89

antjes said:


> That’s right and for me this is the main mistake of Fengmi, they should let user decide what to do with settings under DV. I guess finally following yogur recomendations I will get Hdfury since I cant live without MEMC…..SOE fan….😬


With a trick, you can activate MEMC in DV
Only via bluray player or media player


----------



## antjes

AlexM89 said:


> With a trick, you can activate MEMC in DV
> Only via bluray player or media player


Can you describe that trick?
Yes, I can use MEMC in DV the first time I play a movie, but suddenly MEMC is off and I cant find any patron to make it work again, even I dont know what will happen in final firmware since I still have V1.4.
Please, can you give me the trick to make MEMC work under DV?
Thanks

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## AlexM89

antjes said:


> Can you describe that trick?
> Yes, I can use MEMC in DV the first time I play a movie, but suddenly MEMC is off and I cant find any patron to make it work again, even I dont know what will happen in final firmware since I still have V1.4.
> Please, can you give me the trick to make MEMC work under DV?
> Thanks
> 
> Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk



It only works on FW 2.0

Switch between content (ex. HDR10) and activate MEMC - if already active, switch to OFF and then to LOW.

Then play some content in DV

Works perfectly on BD player


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> So, tonight's adventure was an effort to get a bit better color balance on my T1. I had previously dropped the red down a bit to reduce the effect of laser speckle and it seemed to be working quite well. However, the blue and green colors were somewhat brighter and out of balance with the red. So, I loaded up some test patterns from Spears and Munsil and put up 100% red, then played with the levels to ensure that I had it set at a good place where laser speckle is low. I ended up liking where I had previously set it, so didn't adjust it further. Then I pulled up green and eventually blue 100% patterns and tried to adjust them by eye, trying to somewhat even out their brightness across all three colors. I then re-calibrated using the disc and came up with these settings:
> 
> Brightness Mode: View
> Custom Color:
> Red: 903
> Green: 952
> Blue: 872
> View attachment 3266242
> 
> 
> In my testing, I really liked how natural the blues and greens are looking in comparison to how they may have seemed a bit over saturated before in comparison. Now everything looks even and natural and colorful in a more refined way. Very happy and pleased with how it came out to be honest.


Is that m0j0 modification T1-25.2? Or, just a point release and not a major software upgrade? By the way - I’m current on my m0j0 T1 Software Support Contract.


----------



## JereyWolf

ProjectionHead said:


> Any other suggestions that would let me see the T1 really shine vs the non alpd units?


At least while you're still in the current firmware, put on an SDR blu ray, or just disable HDR from the source, any content that is very dark should display a massive discrepancy, particularly any scene in space with a star field. With mid to high ADL scenes, I think the performance gap closes.

Also try to ensure you're seeing a 4k signal on the T1. It may require you to manually toggle HDMI 2.0/2.1 to enable 4k/60hz because of a system bug where it sometimes starts with HDMI 1.4 selected.


----------



## 3sprit

The T1 costs 2,400€ (2,600$). The PX1-Pro 3,500$ (Not yet available in Europe….). 🙂


----------



## antjes

AlexM89 said:


> It only works on FW 2.0
> 
> Switch between content (ex. HDR10) and activate MEMC - if already active, switch to OFF and then to LOW.
> 
> Then play some content in DV
> 
> Works perfectly on BD player


Ok, sounds good. 
Thanks

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Malaveae

3sprit said:


> The T1 costs 2,400€ (2,600$). The PX1-Pro 3,500$ (Not yet available in Europe….). 🙂


And if you can catch it at a lesser price, there is no rivalry.
I'm using it for movie nights as an "Home IMAX Cinema". (Low light room)
Against a gray painted wall reaching 155" screen (above recommended range specs +150"!.), 
and the "WOW" factor is there with contrast, screen size and colors. 
I´m still with FW 1.4.xxxx., expecting they correct DV red tints. 
I do not perceived any RBE and and I have not reconigzed the speckle yet.
Is pair with a Fire Tv Max stick, and is time for popcorns.


----------



## jorgemurillo2012

Mine is coming tomorrow or hopefully today it's like in my area already... im way to excited for it and mine coste 2400 so it wasn't that expensive


----------



## Ricoflashback

Malaveae said:


> And if you can catch it at a lesser price, there is no rivalry.
> I'm using it for movie nights as an "Home IMAX Cinema". (Low light room)
> Against a gray painted wall reaching 155" screen (above recommended range specs +150"!.),
> and the "WOW" factor is there with contrast, screen size and colors.
> I´m still with FW 1.4.xxxx., expecting they correct DV red tints.
> I do not perceived any RBE and and I have not reconigzed the speckle yet.
> Is pair with a Fire Tv Max stick, and is time for popcorns.
> View attachment 3266315
> 
> View attachment 3266313
> 
> View attachment 3266314
> 
> View attachment 3266312
> 
> View attachment 3266309
> 
> View attachment 3266310
> 
> View attachment 3266311


Very nice! Initially, I'll have to shine my image on an off white wall. Hopefully, that will work ok until I find a 2nd hand screen as this will be temporary living in an apartment while we look for a house in a new state. 

I bet you can improve on an already great looking picture (black levels & color pop) with the new firmware updates. I'm reading all I can about the Vertex 2 and attending m0j0 HD Fury University to understand the best way to optimize the Fengmi T1 picture.


----------



## m0j0

Was too tired to post pics last night after the color tweaks. Here's a "few"... 

Note: The Encanto pics have some blue oversaturation in them from the camera and are not like that on screen.


----------



## rooterha

Will test these today - I really liked the settings you posted yesterday. Looked good with every one of my test movies and was planning on keeping it so I'll compare to the new ones and choose which one I prefer.

Great Gatsby and Bridgerton both look pretty good now instead of ridiculously over saturated and bright like they did with some of the earlier settings.

Dark scenes have great detail and are very watchable even during the day.


----------



## donw

JereyWolf said:


> At least while you're still in the current firmware, put on an SDR blu ray, or just disable HDR from the source, any content that is very dark should display a massive discrepancy, particularly any scene in space with a star field. With mid to high ADL scenes, I think the performance gap closes.
> 
> Also try to ensure you're seeing a 4k signal on the T1. It may require you to manually toggle HDMI 2.0/2.1 to enable 4k/60hz because of a system bug where it sometimes starts with HDMI 1.4 selected.


How can you tell if you are seeing a 4K signal on the T1?


----------



## Ricoflashback

Maybe this has been covered before but it gets a little confusing with all the posts. 

Currently, the best "out of the box" settings for the Fengmi T1? Also - please note the firmware version you are on.


----------



## jorgemurillo2012

m0j0 said:


> Was too tired to post pics last night after the color tweaks. Here's a "few"...
> 
> Note: The Encanto pics have some blue oversaturation in them from the camera and are not like that on screen.


 You should post some of Monster Hunter the movie would definitely would like to see that with your tweaks


----------



## xrayg1971

Ricoflashback said:


> Very nice! Initially, I'll have to shine my image on an off white wall. Hopefully, that will work ok until I find a 2nd hand screen as this will be temporary living in an apartment while we look for a house in a new state.
> 
> I bet you can improve on an already great looking picture (black levels & color pop) with the new firmware updates. I'm reading all I can about the Vertex 2 and attending m0j0 HD Fury University to understand the best way to optimize the Fengmi T1 picture.


I agree ... im trying to justify the extra 470 bucks for the vertex2 .. ill wait to see how it looks natively when i get it ...maybe even wait for 2.0 firmware ... if im not happy ill get the vertex.. im only watching sheild and cable box so im not as advanced with the the console and blueray player ..


----------



## m0j0

rooterha said:


> Will test these today - I really liked the settings you posted yesterday. Looked good with every one of my test movies and was planning on keeping it so I'll compare to the new ones and choose which one I prefer.
> 
> Great Gatsby and Bridgerton both look pretty good now instead of ridiculously over saturated and bright like they did with some of the earlier settings.
> 
> Dark scenes have great detail and are very watchable even during the day.


The first batch of pictures were done with the color tweaks only, then I re-ran calibration and did some tweaks and took the 2nd batch, so if you just want to keep the previous settings and just change the colors, it will still look really good. I just had to go the extra step and rebalance everything after the color tweaks one more time.


----------



## m0j0

donw said:


> How can you tell if you are seeing a 4K signal on the T1?


If it reaches out and slaps you, then you know... 
That's another benefit of the Vertex2, it has an on screen display that pops up at the beginning for a few seconds and provides a lot of details about the show you're watching.


----------



## xrayg1971

just got word that mine is getting delivered today .. **** im beyond excited lol ... will not know where to start .. hahah ..pray that it made it ok and no issues ... have to go back to page 183 i think and see mojo regular settings


----------



## m0j0

xrayg1971 said:


> I agree ... im trying to justify the extra 470 bucks for the vertex2 .. ill wait to see how it looks natively when i get it ...maybe even wait for 2.0 firmware ... if im not happy ill get the vertex.. im only watching sheild and cable box so im not as advanced with the the console and blueray player ..


As soon as you hit that first "too dark" scene, you'll know it's time to fork out the cash...


----------



## m0j0

xrayg1971 said:


> just got word that mine is getting delivered today .. **** im beyond excited lol ... will not know where to start .. hahah ..pray that it made it ok and no issues ... have to go back to page 183 i think and see mojo regular settings


Congrats and good luck on your journey!


----------



## m0j0

jorgemurillo2012 said:


> You should post some of Monster Hunter the movie would definitely would like to see that with your tweaks


I will consider it for the playlist.


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> Maybe this has been covered before but it gets a little confusing with all the posts.
> 
> Currently, the best "out of the box" settings for the Fengmi T1? Also - please note the firmware version you are on.


Put it back in the box until firmware 2.0 releases, or just buy a Vertex2 already...


----------



## m0j0

Malaveae said:


> And if you can catch it at a lesser price, there is no rivalry.
> I'm using it for movie nights as an "Home IMAX Cinema". (Low light room)
> Against a gray painted wall reaching 155" screen (above recommended range specs +150"!.),
> and the "WOW" factor is there with contrast, screen size and colors.
> I´m still with FW 1.4.xxxx., expecting they correct DV red tints.
> I do not perceived any RBE and and I have not reconigzed the speckle yet.
> Is pair with a Fire Tv Max stick, and is time for popcorns.
> View attachment 3266315
> 
> View attachment 3266313
> 
> View attachment 3266314
> 
> View attachment 3266312
> 
> View attachment 3266309
> 
> View attachment 3266310
> 
> View attachment 3266311


Sensational pics sir! Nicely done! Thanks for sharing. Man, we all need a grey painted wall I think!


----------



## rooterha

Has anyone on the latest beta had to change HDMI version? I haven't seen it in a couple weeks now.


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> If it reaches out and slaps you, then you know...
> That's another benefit of the Vertex2, it has an on screen display that pops up at the beginning for a few seconds and provides a lot of details about the show you're watching.


I think I have my hdmi set up on "auto" instead of 2.1 or 2.0. Is that bad?


----------



## m0j0

donw said:


> I think I have my hdmi set up on "auto" instead of 2.1 or 2.0. Is that bad?


I would recommend just setting 2.1.


----------



## JereyWolf

donw said:


> How can you tell if you are seeing a 4K signal on the T1?


I haven't found a was to display the signal info on the T1 directly. I think the best method now is to verify the sent signal on the source device.


----------



## Jsolohd

Saving up for the T1! If I want to play local files, would madvr or vertex2 produce better images? Anyone have experience comparing both services? I have 1060 for madvr if that helps


----------



## humax

Malaveae said:


> Against a gray painted wall reaching 155" screen (above recommended range specs +150"!.),
> and the "WOW" factor is there with contrast, screen size and colors.



Very impressive image size and the quality is there too. You would not want grey blacks at 155". However, you seem to have some curvature in the top middle part of your wall.


----------



## m0j0

Jsolohd said:


> Saving up for the T1! If I want to play local files, would madvr or vertex2 produce better images? Anyone have experience comparing both services? I have 1060 for madvr if that helps


I don’t have MadVR but everything I’ve read indicates it is the ideal solution for tone mapping vs Vertex2. For either though, I would recommend getting a Zidoo Z9X if you are playing local files. It’s VS10 engine is impressive.


----------



## azar777

guys, tell me, am I confused between choosing Samsung LSP9T or fengmi t1? I'm talking here and I understand that t1 is not a very good projector and that dv is just marketing from the Chinese. do I understand correctly that Samsung LSP9T is the best projector in the picture today?


----------



## humax

jorgemurillo2012 said:


> Mine is coming tomorrow or hopefully today it's like in my area already... im way to excited for it and mine coste 2400 so it wasn't that expensive



Please, post your honest impressions, when you receive it. Enjoy your new projector!


----------



## Ricoflashback

azar777 said:


> guys, tell me, am I confused between choosing Samsung LSP9T or fengmi t1? I'm talking here and I understand that t1 is not a very good projector and that dv is just marketing from the Chinese. do I understand correctly that Samsung LSP9T is the best projector in the picture today?


Yes - definitely marketing hype from the Chinese and not a good projector. Research the Samsung LSP9T "Owner's Thread" for a lot of great tips. Enjoy your Samsung LSP9T!


----------



## Aztar35

azar777 said:


> guys, tell me, am I confused between choosing Samsung LSP9T or fengmi t1? I'm talking here and I understand that t1 is not a very good projector and that dv is just marketing from the Chinese. do I understand correctly that Samsung LSP9T is the best projector in the picture today?


I'm not sure if you're asking a question or criticizing a projector you haven't yet seen. 

You can read about them in the dedicated threads.


----------



## Aztar35

donw said:


> What, no requisite show photos?


I think he's waiting for Season 3 of the The Witcher, which is expected to be out later this year.


----------



## m0j0

azar777 said:


> guys, tell me, am I confused between choosing Samsung LSP9T or fengmi t1? I'm talking here and I understand that t1 is not a very good projector and that dv is just marketing from the Chinese. do I understand correctly that Samsung LSP9T is the best projector in the picture today?


You are persistent in your trolling, I will give you that much.


----------



## m0j0

rooterha said:


> Has anyone on the latest beta had to change HDMI version? I haven't seen it in a couple weeks now.


Yes, on occasion, I do still experience it, but it’s not as often as before.


----------



## ProjectionHead

m0j0 said:


> I don’t have MadVR but everything I’ve read indicates it is the ideal solution for tone mapping vs Vertex2. For either though, I would recommend getting a Zidoo Z9X if you are playing local files. It’s VS10 engine is impressive.


Being that I don't run any content from an HTPC right now, Vertex seems like the best bet for physical media or streaming stick plugged into the Vertex. Got one on the way to check out with T1. Also have a MadVR Extreme we'll put in the mix sometime next week.


----------



## Hasan3434

rooterha said:


> Has anyone on the latest beta had to change HDMI version? I haven't seen it in a couple weeks now.


I was going to ask same question.

how to fix dev error 6034


----------



## lattiboy

Ricoflashback said:


> Maybe this has been covered before but it gets a little confusing with all the posts.
> 
> Currently, the best "out of the box" settings for the Fengmi T1? Also - please note the firmware version you are on.


New firmware is child mode and view or office brightness (depending on preferences) for me. Custom settings can be slightly better, but active contrast will sometimes come on by itself and you have to disable it manually. I found it annoying.

Night brightness / child mode loses some color accuracy, but I actually find it’s warmer temperature and lower brightness great for late night viewing.


----------



## lattiboy

Hasan3434 said:


> I was going to ask same question.


yes, I’d say once every four or five projector power cycles I have to toggle between 2.0 and 2.1. It takes about ten seconds and you’re good. Still a stupid PITA


----------



## lattiboy

It’s here…. @m0j0 I hate to ask, but can I get your Vertex settings? I have your T1 settings from latest attempt saved.

PS for GODS SAKE can we get a wiki going on this thread? So much critical info scattered across thousands of posts!


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

lattiboy said:


> yes, I’d say once every four or five projector power cycles I have to toggle between 2.0 and 2.1. It takes about ten seconds and you’re good. Still a stupid PITA


Same seen it with my Shield and Series X.
Its annoying especially if I do not catch it.

Not hard for me to fix, but have not bothered to "teach" my other half the issue as to not overwhelm them with technical issues.

I really hope they fix it, if they can the T1 does everything I wanted.

Still debating a Vertex 2 or VRROOM down the line, I do not think I need it... but its tempting.


----------



## m0j0

lattiboy said:


> It’s here…. @m0j0 I hate to ask, but can I get your Vertex settings? I have your T1 settings from latest attempt saved.
> 
> PS for GODS SAKE can we get a wiki going on this thread? So much critical info scattered across thousands of posts!
> 
> View attachment 3266514


Congrats!
I have updated my settings on page 187, including the Vertex2 screens for DV, HDR, EDID, Scaling, OSD and Config tabs (the rest you can just ignore/leave at default settings IMO).








Formovie Fengmi T1


Try unplug the cable and plug in again. Sometimes it doesn’t detect the signal.




www.avsforum.com





And this is the most recent settings I am using as of 4/14:
Brightness Mode: View
Custom Color:
Red: 903
Green: 952
Blue: 872


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> Congrats!
> I have updated my settings on page 187, including the Vertex2 screens for DV, HDR, EDID, Scaling, OSD and Config tabs (the rest you can just ignore/leave at default settings IMO).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Formovie Fengmi T1
> 
> 
> Try unplug the cable and plug in again. Sometimes it doesn’t detect the signal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is the most recent settings I am using as of 4/14:
> Brightness Mode: View
> Custom Color:
> Red: 903
> Green: 952
> Blue: 872
> View attachment 3266519


m0j0 - can you or do you have multiple saved profiles on the V2 that you can invoke based on the source you are using? In my case, that would be the Nvidia Shield Pro and Comcast cable with an occasional OPPO 103 Blu-ray player. Down the road I’ll look at the Roku Ultra streamer to force DV. Eventually, all through my Denon X6700H AVR.


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> m0j0 - can you or do you have multiple saved profiles on the V2 that you can invoke based on the source you are using? In my case, that would be the Nvidia Shield Pro and Comcast cable with an occasional OPPO 103 Blu-ray player. Down the road I’ll look at the Roku Ultra streamer to force DV. Eventually, all through my Denon X6700H AVR.


It doesn't have the ability to save profiles, but if your player isn't set to force DV, and you only have the box checked to send custom hdr when source is lldv, it will just pass through the SDR/HDR signals. Ideally, if you do have a player that can force DV, all signals to the Vertex2 would be LLDV and it would send Custom HDR for all formats to the T1 (SDR, HDR, DV). In the case of the Shield, if you are watching a native DV show, it will go through the Vertex2 as LLDV/Custom HDR if I recall.


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> It doesn't have the ability to save profiles, but if your player isn't set to force DV, and you only have the box checked to send custom hdr when source is lldv, it will just pass through the SDR/HDR signals. Ideally, if you do have a player that can force DV, all signals to the Vertex2 would be LLDV and it would send Custom HDR for all formats to the T1 (SDR, HDR, DV). In the case of the Shield, if you are watching a native DV show, it will go through the Vertex2 as LLDV/Custom HDR if I recall.


Thanks. Let me see if I have this correct - the Vertex 2 should work with native DV signals being sent by the Nvidia Shield Pro, correct? Thus the benefits of using the V2 for that content. I'd have to get a Roku Ultra for any streamed content in SDR/HDR to take advantage of the Vertex 2 processing. As far as cable goes - - no benefit from the Vertex 2 as nothing is being sent in LLDV format. It would be nice if the Nvidia Shield Pro could output forced LLDV but I don't think that's the case, currently.


----------



## donw

Ricoflashback said:


> Thanks. Let me see if I have this correct - the Vertex 2 should work with native DV signals being sent by the Nvidia Shield Pro, correct? Thus the benefits of using the V2 for that content. I'd have to get a Roku Ultra for any streamed content in SDR/HDR to take advantage of the Vertex 2 processing. As far as cable goes - - no benefit from the Vertex 2 as nothing is being sent in LLDV format. It would be nice if the Nvidia Shield Pro could output forced LLDV but I don't think that's the case, currently.


My Ugoos AM6B Plus also appears to be outputting forced LLDV for all modes. I'm running Kodi on it.


----------



## humax

Ricoflashback said:


> It would be nice if the Nvidia Shield Pro could output forced LLDV but I don't think that's the case, currently.




If I am not mistaken, it was mentioned some pages earlier the Amazon Fire Cube can also force DV output. If you only care about streaming services, it sounds like a decent choice. It is cheap enough, so I will probably buy one myself to try it out. Currently, I have the Shield Pro too.


----------



## 3sprit

Malaveae said:


> I do not perceived any RBE and and I have not reconigzed the speckle yet.


I'm starting to believe that an ALR-UST screen is a problem for trilaser projectors... 
Your images confirm it: they are "remarkable" 👍


----------



## lattiboy

3sprit said:


> I'm starting to believe that an ALR-UST screen is a problem for trilaser projectors...
> Your images confirm it: they are "remarkable" 👍


Yep, when I had the LG HU810P (dual laser, but incredible image quality) my Cinegray 3D screen had horrendous speckle and poor contrast. Switched it out with a cheap Qualgear .9 gray screen and the picture was incredibly improved. Unfortunately it lost the ability to be useful for non-dark viewing.


----------



## donw

Has anyone optimized settings for T1 (1.4xxx) SD mode (without Vertex2)? M0j0's settings look pretty good for HDR10, but they blow out whites in SD. Speaking of this issue, has anyone heard if Fengmi is planning on giving us programmable settings for each mode? I believe some people a ways back in the thread might have requested this feature of them.


----------



## 3sprit

Who has Samsung does not see speackle on traditional screens.


----------



## ProjectionHead

JereyWolf said:


> At least while you're still in the current firmware, put on an SDR blu ray, or just disable HDR from the source, any content that is very dark should display a massive discrepancy, particularly any scene in space with a star field. With mid to high ADL scenes, I think the performance gap closes.
> 
> Also try to ensure you're seeing a 4k signal on the T1. It may require you to manually toggle HDMI 2.0/2.1 to enable 4k/60hz because of a system bug where it sometimes starts with HDMI 1.4 selected.


Just ordered Interstellar 4k & Bluray for pickup tomorrow to for some low APL content. Will be doing another round of side-by-sides some point next week after @Dave Harper works some magic on my T1.

* edit: Going to grab 1917 as I’ve been told that the “night scene” is another great low apl torture test


----------



## ProjectionHead

3sprit said:


> Who has Samsung does not see speackle on traditional screens.


I see the Samsung speckle on _everything_


----------



## 3sprit

donw said:


> Speaking of this issue, has anyone heard if Fengmi is planning on giving us programmable settings for each mode? I believe some people a ways back in the thread might have requested this feature of them.


We have to hope that the ProjecTivy Tools can work on T1.


----------



## m0j0

humax said:


> If I am not mistaken, it was mentioned some pages earlier the Amazon Fire Cube can also force DV output. If you only care about streaming services, it sounds like a decent choice. It is cheap enough, so I will probably buy one myself to try it out. Currently, I have the Shield Pro too.


That is correct, the Cube and the 4k Fire Stick I believe can both force DV.


----------



## Meu Tech Mundo

Xiaomi mi stick 4k with dolby vision and atmos looks FANTASTIC


----------



## m0j0

donw said:


> Has anyone optimized settings for T1 (1.4xxx) SD mode (without Vertex2)? M0j0's settings look pretty good for HDR10, but they blow out whites in SD. Speaking of this issue, has anyone heard if Fengmi is planning on giving us programmable settings for each mode? I believe some people a ways back in the thread might have requested this feature of them.


Did you try these settings for SDR?


https://www.avsforum.com/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=1920,fit=scale-down/https://www.avsforum.com/attachments/709-1-jpg.3262444/


----------



## Meu Tech Mundo

For gamers, the input lag is not so bad! With PS5 I can get 1080p with 120hz when I select HDMI 2.1
With Xbox one X I have problem with the image. The picture is shaking.
With Mi stick 4k Dolby Vision went crazy, unbelievable image


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> Did you try these settings for SDR?
> 
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=1920,fit=scale-down/https://www.avsforum.com/attachments/709-1-jpg.3262444/


No. I had contrast=81 and saturation=42. I'll give that a try.


----------



## humax

Chapelwaite's candle-lit scenes rendering between the three tri-lasers would be interesting. Maybe also throw in one of the new JVC models for reference into the mix in order to see, if they can keep up at all next to it with dark scenes or in general performance.


----------



## rjyap

lattiboy said:


> Yep, when I had the LG HU810P (dual laser, but incredible image quality) my Cinegray 3D screen had horrendous speckle and poor contrast. Switched it out with a cheap Qualgear .9 gray screen and the picture was incredibly improved. Unfortunately it lost the ability to be useful for non-dark viewing.


I believe it's the screen material that's reflective causing the sparkle. Matte material will not have this problem. Anything with high gain or those very dark grey screen with gain boost is most likely reflective material.


----------



## Ricoflashback

lattiboy said:


> Yep, when I had the LG HU810P (dual laser, but incredible image quality) my Cinegray 3D screen had horrendous speckle and poor contrast. Switched it out with a cheap Qualgear .9 gray screen and the picture was incredibly improved. Unfortunately it lost the ability to be useful for non-dark viewing.


Yes, non-dark viewing is a whole new ballgame. But I’d venture to say that most of us do our heavy projector viewing at night. I‘ve evolved to think that the trade offs and cost of a low gain, specific UST ALR screen aren’t worth the picture quality compromise when the lights go down. Sure - if you watch 80% of your content during the day, then that type of screen material would make sense. Otherwise, you sacrifice brightness and sharpness and potential sparkle and rainbows for those that are prone to that condition. 

For daytime viewing, you could always do a Howard Hughes and have aluminum foil over your windows with heavy drapes. Remember - Howard’s the reason for TV and movies all night long as he was a night owl and didn’t appreciate the 2:00 am station sign off with the Star Spangled Banner.


----------



## eezrider

rooterha said:


> Has anyone on the latest beta had to change HDMI version? I haven't seen it in a couple weeks now.


I still have the problem with my XBox One X with the latest beta software


----------



## xrayg1971

m0j0 said:


> Congrats!
> I have updated my settings on page 187, including the Vertex2 screens for DV, HDR, EDID, Scaling, OSD and Config tabs (the rest you can just ignore/leave at default settings IMO).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Formovie Fengmi T1
> 
> 
> Try unplug the cable and plug in again. Sometimes it doesn’t detect the signal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is the most recent settings I am using as of 4/14:
> Brightness Mode: View
> Custom Color:
> Red: 903
> Green: 952
> Blue: 872
> View attachment 3266519


Got my unit at 5pm est ... all set up .. minimal keystone correction ... just a tad bit focus adjustment .... looks good, not perfect in the corners but really good 
Mojo thanks for this these settings are really good ..
i have to say this looks great ... i see some speckle in the red tomes especially but not terrible .. 
my alr screen looks great in the day and with the lights on in the LR 
cant wait to see what ver 2.0 does ... 
overall pretty happy


----------



## lattiboy

m0j0 said:


> Congrats!
> I have updated my settings on page 187, including the Vertex2 screens for DV, HDR, EDID, Scaling, OSD and Config tabs (the rest you can just ignore/leave at default settings IMO).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Formovie Fengmi T1
> 
> 
> Try unplug the cable and plug in again. Sometimes it doesn’t detect the signal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is the most recent settings I am using as of 4/14:
> Brightness Mode: View
> Custom Color:
> Red: 903
> Green: 952
> Blue: 872
> View attachment 3266519


Great so far, but too bright out for good pics for a few hours. One HUGE benefit of these settings is view mode and night mode brightness are both very accurate! A huge pain I had with previous setups was night mode looking very yellow in comparison. I was okay with it, but now night and view brightness are pretty perfect.

On minimal viewing I do see a bit of highlight blowout in certain scenes, so I may pull down max lumens to 115 or so and give up some shadow detail. Again, need to do this at night and carefully when I have time.


----------



## lattiboy

Ricoflashback said:


> Yes, non-dark viewing is a whole new ballgame. But I’d venture to say that most of us do our heavy projector viewing at night. I‘ve evolved to think that the trade offs and cost of a low gain, specific UST ALR screen aren’t worth the picture quality compromise when the lights go down. Sure - if you watch 80% of your content during the day, then that type of screen material would make sense. Otherwise, you sacrifice brightness and sharpness and potential sparkle and rainbows for those that are prone to that condition.
> 
> For daytime viewing, you could always do a Howard Hughes and have aluminum foil over your windows with heavy drapes. Remember - Howard’s the reason for TV and movies all night long as he was a night owl and didn’t appreciate the 2:00 am station sign off with the Star Spangled Banner.


I suppose, but I hate sitting in a bat cave during the day and find even at night I have rear pot lights and rear led strip lights on low or I get a headache. I couldn’t get away with spending the time and house space I have on a “dark only” setup without a domestic revolt.

To each his own as I’m sure the black velvet crew see things differently.


----------



## lattiboy

Finally, I cannot believe how good the sound on this PJ is. I have it using the built in speaker because I’m doing vertex stuff and the soundbar is being annoying. My god I would sell this dumb $1500 LG soundbar if I could put a decent subwoofer on the T1. It’s that good people! I always forget until I have soundbar issues and my wife is annoyed when I put it back because for non movie viewing the vocal clarity, definition, and detail is absurd.


----------



## m0j0

lattiboy said:


> Great so far, but too bright out for good pics for a few hours. One HUGE benefit of these settings is view mode and night mode brightness are both very accurate! A huge pain I had with previous setups was night mode looking very yellow in comparison. I was okay with it, but now night and view brightness are pretty perfect.
> 
> On minimal viewing I do see a bit of highlight blowout in certain scenes, so I may pull down max lumens to 115 or so and give up some shadow detail. Again, need to do this at night and carefully when I have time.


Yeah, you may need to adjust things a bit for your screen/setup.


----------



## m0j0

xrayg1971 said:


> Got my unit at 5pm est ... all set up .. minimal keystone correction ... just a tad bit focus adjustment .... looks good, not perfect in the corners but really good
> Mojo thanks for this these settings are really good ..
> i have to say this looks great ... i see some speckle in the red tomes especially but not terrible ..
> my alr screen looks great in the day and with the lights on in the LR
> cant wait to see what ver 2.0 does ...
> overall pretty happy


Happy for you man. Hope you get a lot of enjoyment out of it.


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

lattiboy said:


> I would sell this dumb $1500 LG soundbar if I could put a decent subwoofer on the T1.


Do you have an available digital processor you could put into service here? Run the audio out from the Vertex to the processor, then processor to sub. This is how i was able to add my own sub to the Sony HT-A9 system in lieu of the Sony sub options.


----------



## xrayg1971

m0j0 said:


> Happy for you man. Hope you get a lot of enjoyment out of it.


also have to say thanks to you not only for the settings but also for the writeup on how to connect the harmony hub ... i would have never though to add it as a mac and pair via bluetooth ... crazy .. 

right now i have all inputs going to the AV receiver then out to the projector .. tomorrow i will play with putting the inputs direct to the t1 and just audio out to the av rec ... see if that makes a big diff in the pic !! not sure ..


----------



## Ricoflashback

lattiboy said:


> I suppose, but I hate sitting in a bat cave during the day and find even at night I have rear pot lights and rear led strip lights on low or I get a headache. I couldn’t get away with spending the time and house space I have on a “dark only” setup without a domestic revolt.
> 
> To each his own as I’m sure the black velvet crew see things differently.


It was said more in jest. I watch very little, if any, TV during the day and if I do, there is always our bedroom OLED TV. As long as you have good blinds or shutters (no skylights) and you can control most of the ambient light, a matte gray screen with some ALR properties and even a 1.0 gain should work fine with the Fengmi T1 and other UST projectors. That’s my main point. Any daytime viewing, even with the best UST ALR screen, is an unacceptable compromise in my opinion. Heck - the purist projector crowd view a UST PJ in a multipurpose room as blasphemy anyway compared to a regular throw projector in a 100%, light controlled, black “Velvet Elvis” dedicated theater room.

I used to watch my Sony 75” LCD 900F TV with bias lighting as the harshness of the picture required the bias light. Not so with a projector where it’s mostly dark (white walls and ceiling) and distant light on. Much easier on my eyes and no bias light needed for a PJ. The light projected from the screen makes it easy to move around.


----------



## lattiboy

m0j0 said:


> Yeah, you may need to adjust things a bit for your screen/setup.


I kept basically all of your settings, but adjusted contrast to 60 instead of 80. I would say it’s close enough to perfect for me (if I weren’t a total freak) I would call it good and stop screwing around! Thanks again man, saved me hours of ********!

some samples, first three DV, last two HDR. All of them torture tests, using @m0j0 settings on Vertex 2, with Roku Ultra always DV mode engaged. Biggest win here is from Inside Out. The top bit of red in that unicorns hair is at the absolute LIMITS of BT2020 and even on 2.0 firmware was blown out in DV mode! It’s been my obsession to get it fixed and even Fengmi has analyzed the scene internally to address DV issues (lol).

Also, I believe that’s damn near perfect on our good friend Harley Quinn. Somebody posted their Sony A9 screenshot a while back and it looks very similar. In person it’s a bit greener, but iPhone processing is bugging out again.


----------



## ProFragger

ngcoolman said:


> Yup. Don't need to wait imo. And by the time Nov 11 arrives, there will likely be a newer model.


Isn't that a good thing? Either a cheaper T1 or newer, improved equipment for comparable price? 

I'm not asking rhetorically... I genuinely haven't bought stuff this expensive from overseas markets... Thank you for your input!


----------



## ProFragger

m0j0 said:


> You are persistent in your trolling, I will give you that much.


At this point, the joke's on us... We keep taking the cheese LOL!


----------



## jeff9n

An immersive theater viewing experience at home. Your post is just another proof that ALR screen is not required for light controlled room. And that the WOW factor is still there even though we exceed the manufacturer specification for screen size.

I will be munching popcorn on my 165-in screen tomorrow night. 



Malaveae said:


> And if you can catch it at a lesser price, there is no rivalry.
> I'm using it for movie nights as an "Home IMAX Cinema". (Low light room)
> Against a gray painted wall reaching 155" screen (above recommended range specs +150"!.),
> and the "WOW" factor is there with contrast, screen size and colors.
> I´m still with FW 1.4.xxxx., expecting they correct DV red tints.
> I do not perceived any RBE and and I have not reconigzed the speckle yet.
> Is pair with a Fire Tv Max stick, and is time for popcorns.
> View attachment 3266315
> 
> View attachment 3266313
> 
> View attachment 3266314
> 
> View attachment 3266312
> 
> View attachment 3266309
> 
> View attachment 3266310
> 
> View attachment 3266311


----------



## donw

My turn for some red. First one is Ugoos generated LLDV and second one is HDR with M0j0's recommended settings. Oh, and M0j0, your fix for SD did work; thanks.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Just received tracking for my International unit, should be here next week.
Going to have a VERY gently used T1 up for sale real soon….


----------



## ProjectionHead

lattiboy said:


> I kept basically all of your settings, but adjusted contrast to 60 instead of 80. I would say it’s close enough to perfect for me (if I weren’t a total freak) I would call it good and stop screwing around! Thanks again man, saved me hours of ******!
> 
> some samples, first three DV, last two HDR. All of them torture tests, using @m0j0 settings on Vertex 2, with Roku Ultra always DV mode engaged. Biggest win here is from Inside Out. The top bit of red in that unicorns hair is at the absolute LIMITS of BT2020 and even on 2.0 firmware was blown out in DV mode! It’s been my obsession to get it fixed and even Fengmi has analyzed the scene internally to address DV issues (lol).
> 
> Also, I believe that’s damn near perfect on our good friend Harley Quinn. Somebody posted their Sony A9 screenshot a while back and it looks very similar. In person it’s a bit greener, but iPhone processing is bugging out again.
> 
> View attachment 3266687
> 
> View attachment 3266688
> 
> View attachment 3266689
> 
> View attachment 3266690
> 
> View attachment 3266691


Assuming these are being played off your pc - any chance you have the time/want to make a “torture test” mix of video clips that we can all run and compare to each other?


----------



## okvcos

lattiboy said:


> I kept basically all of your settings, but adjusted contrast to 60 instead of 80. I would say it’s close enough to perfect for me (if I weren’t a total freak) I would call it good and stop screwing around! Thanks again man, saved me hours of ******!
> 
> some samples, first three DV, last two HDR. All of them torture tests, using @m0j0 settings on Vertex 2, with Roku Ultra always DV mode engaged. Biggest win here is from Inside Out. The top bit of red in that unicorns hair is at the absolute LIMITS of BT2020 and even on 2.0 firmware was blown out in DV mode! It’s been my obsession to get it fixed and even Fengmi has analyzed the scene internally to address DV issues (lol).
> 
> Also, I believe that’s damn near perfect on our good friend Harley Quinn. Somebody posted their Sony A9 screenshot a while back and it looks very similar. In person it’s a bit greener, but iPhone processing is bugging out again.


you use last setting R 903, G 952, B 873 with DV ?


----------



## m0j0

lattiboy said:


> I kept basically all of your settings, but adjusted contrast to 60 instead of 80. I would say it’s close enough to perfect for me (if I weren’t a total freak) I would call it good and stop screwing around! Thanks again man, saved me hours of ******!
> 
> some samples, first three DV, last two HDR. All of them torture tests, using @m0j0 settings on Vertex 2, with Roku Ultra always DV mode engaged. Biggest win here is from Inside Out. The top bit of red in that unicorns hair is at the absolute LIMITS of BT2020 and even on 2.0 firmware was blown out in DV mode! It’s been my obsession to get it fixed and even Fengmi has analyzed the scene internally to address DV issues (lol).
> 
> Also, I believe that’s damn near perfect on our good friend Harley Quinn. Somebody posted their Sony A9 screenshot a while back and it looks very similar. In person it’s a bit greener, but iPhone processing is bugging out again.
> 
> View attachment 3266687
> 
> View attachment 3266688
> 
> View attachment 3266689
> 
> View attachment 3266690
> 
> View attachment 3266691


Looks fantastic, nice work!


----------



## xrayg1971

ProjectionHead said:


> Just received tracking for my International unit, should be here next week.
> Going to have a VERY gently used T1 up for sale real soon….


Question big price diff ? In % ? Also would love to see what the software looks like


----------



## ProjectionHead

xrayg1971 said:


> Question big price diff ? In % ? Also would love to see what the software looks like


I’m under embargo for a bit more on what I can share publicly.


----------



## eezrider

ProFragger said:


> Isn't that a good thing? Either a cheaper T1 or newer, improved equipment for comparable price?
> 
> I'm not asking rhetorically... I genuinely haven't bought stuff this expensive from overseas markets... Thank you for your input!


But at what price do you value 6 months of viewing in the meantime? Wait til Nov 2023 and there will be still better/cheaper options...


----------



## m0j0

Another night, another change... I am trying to gradually bump up the nits on the Vertex2 and see what that is doing to the calibration. It seems that the more I bump it up, the more I have to pull back on contrast to compensate, but what I am also trying to determine is if that is helping with shadow detail and black levels / tone mapping in general. From what I saw last night, I do think there is a subtle improvement, though it does seem to be an improvement nonetheless. So, in summary, I saw excellent overall performance in low light / night scenes and bright / daylight scenes (this all being viewed at night in a dark room).


----------



## lattiboy

okvcos said:


> you use last setting R 903, G 952, B 873 with DV ?


Correct. I was surprised as it goes against what I’ve done previously and does poorly on my color clipping charts, but actual content looks great so who knows?


----------



## m0j0

And here's some pictures from last night...


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> And here's some pictures from last night...


The horse/snow scene is often used to demonstrate shadow detail. You can clearly see the background with your settings. Maybe it's just my eyes or the camera, but they don't seem to have the "pop" of your other pictures.


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> The horse/snow scene is often used to demonstrate shadow detail. You can clearly see the background with your settings. Maybe it's just my eyes or the camera, but they don't seem to have the "pop" of your other pictures.


Yeah, maybe that is a result of reducing contrast, not sure. Looked very good in person though.


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> Yeah, maybe that is a result of reducing contrast, not sure. Looked very good in person though.


Which iteration was your best "high pop" V2 settings with the best shadow detail?


----------



## lattiboy

m0j0 said:


> Another night, another change... I am trying to gradually bump up the nits on the Vertex2 and see what that is doing to the calibration. It seems that the more I bump it up, the more I have to pull back on contrast to compensate, but what I am also trying to determine is if that is helping with shadow detail and black levels / tone mapping in general. From what I saw last night, I do think there is a subtle improvement, though it does seem to be an improvement nonetheless. So, in summary, I saw excellent overall performance in low light / night scenes and bright / daylight scenes (this all being viewed at night in a dark room).
> 
> 
> View attachment 3266850
> View attachment 3266851


it’s really interesting because with my literally identical setup to yours (Roku, vertex, T1) contrast at anything above 60 is a blown out crazy town, especially on animated stuff. Inside Out on Disney+ with your OG settings was almost unwatchable in large portions. Yet your photos look very good! Deeply confusing and maybe it’s screens? I’m using a .6 CLR from Hisense.

Although I already spent the $500, I’m going to do a comparison of the Vertex 2 and Arcana this weekend if I have time. I’m not convinced the difference in PQ is worth double the price for a simple setup or people who have an AVR already. The Vertex 2 is incredibly sexy and does some very cool things, but it’s so complicated even an old school computer / AV nerd like me is overwhelmed.


----------



## m0j0

lattiboy said:


> it’s really interesting because with my literally identical setup to yours (Roku, vertex, T1) contrast at anything above 60 is a blown out crazy town, especially on animated stuff. Inside Out on Disney+ with your OG settings was almost unwatchable in large portions. Yet your photos look very good! Deeply confusing and maybe it’s screens? I’m using a .6 CLR from Hisense.
> 
> Although I already spent the $500, I’m going to do a comparison of the Vertex 2 and Arcana this weekend if I have time. I’m not convinced the difference in PQ is worth double the price for a simple setup or people who have an AVR already. The Vertex 2 is incredibly sexy and does some very cool things, but it’s so complicated even an old school computer / AV nerd like me is overwhelmed.


Yeah, it must be the screen that is causing the difference.


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> Which iteration was your best "high pop" V2 settings with the best shadow detail?


I suppose that's up to people who test out the various settings and report back. I want to keep rolling with the current setup and do some more testing, then I might roll back to the last one before it and try to compare again. My general focus was on black levels and getting more black and less grey and having good night scene shadow detail, but then I also figured I should check out the bright daytime type scenes as well. I think this one does really good with black levels but I will keep testing.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Well, this is an evolving opinion based on a lot of research and pics from various AVS Forum posters. And, I'm sure it's not without controversy. But here it goes - specifically for UST projectors - I'm starting to believe that avoiding ALR screens, if you can, provides the best picture quality. One caveat - - if someone is hell bent on watching during the daytime with light pouring in. And, if they have a lot of people viewing at off center angles. Otherwise, I think specific UST ALR screens can dim the picture and also be more subject to laser speckle and even rainbows. 

A very cost effective option is the SilverTicket gray, 1.0 gain, thin bezel (velvet wrapped), that is optimal for a low level light "multipurpose" room with a UST laser projector. The velvet wrapped frame will help with any overscan which is quite common with PITA UST projectors as they have no horizontal or vertical shift. It will have some ALR properties but primarily is best for dark viewing environments with little ambient light. On the higher end, the Stewart Tiburon G4 gray screen is top notch - - but with a larger bezel. For a "Velvet Elvis" bat cave, a white screen is always best, IMHO.


----------



## Joered101

ProjectionHead said:


> I’m under embargo for a bit more on what I can share publicly.


Will you guys be doing a review / comparison video?


----------



## ProjectionHead

Joered101 said:


> Will you guys be doing a review / comparison video?


Not sure. I expect to be spending most time with the international unit since thats whats going to be available in the USA


----------



## Rvarma

lattiboy said:


> I kept basically all of your settings, but adjusted contrast to 60 instead of 80. I would say it’s close enough to perfect for me (if I weren’t a total freak) I would call it good and stop screwing around! Thanks again man, saved me hours of ******!
> 
> some samples, first three DV, last two HDR. All of them torture tests, using @m0j0 settings on Vertex 2, with Roku Ultra always DV mode engaged. Biggest win here is from Inside Out. The top bit of red in that unicorns hair is at the absolute LIMITS of BT2020 and even on 2.0 firmware was blown out in DV mode! It’s been my obsession to get it fixed and even Fengmi has analyzed the scene internally to address DV issues (lol).
> 
> Also, I believe that’s damn near perfect on our good friend Harley Quinn. Somebody posted their Sony A9 screenshot a while back and it looks very similar. In person it’s a bit greener, but iPhone processing is bugging out again.
> 
> View attachment 3266687
> 
> View attachment 3266688
> 
> View attachment 3266689
> 
> View attachment 3266690
> 
> View attachment 3266691


if i am only using one source, can arcana achive same results as vertex2?


----------



## Joered101

ProjectionHead said:


> Not sure. I expect to be spending most time with the international unit since thats whats going to be available in the USA


Hoping you guys will 😬 need the wisdom to bite the bullet and buy one over in the UK. Worried about colour accuracy but drawn in my the contrast ratio as that’s what I can’t stand with my P2 at the moment.


----------



## manwithnoname

m0j0 said:


> Another night, another change... I am trying to gradually bump up the nits on the Vertex2 and see what that is doing to the calibration. It seems that the more I bump it up, the more I have to pull back on contrast to compensate, but what I am also trying to determine is if that is helping with shadow detail and black levels / tone mapping in general. From what I saw last night, I do think there is a subtle improvement, though it does seem to be an improvement nonetheless. So, in summary, I saw excellent overall performance in low light / night scenes and bright / daylight scenes (this all being viewed at night in a dark room).
> 
> 
> View attachment 3266851


Hey M0j0, 
Love your results from the Vertex and am going to order one. I have a very stupid question though... What is the method for configuring the Vertex? Is it done on the projector display screen, or do you use a PC/web browser/serial cable to manage the settings?
Thank you!


----------



## lattiboy

Rvarma said:


> if i am only using one source, can arcana achive same results as vertex2?


It doesn’t allow for the super specific color calibration, but you can do the max/min lumens and it honestly looks really good. I think the vertex is better, but I want to try similar settings on both and see if it’s worth the price.

Lots of other reasons to get the Vertex 2, but for pure PQ with a single HDMI input it’s pretty close.


----------



## Malaveae

jeff9n said:


> An immersive theater viewing experience at home. Your post is just another proof that ALR screen is not required for light controlled room. And that the WOW factor is still there even though we exceed the manufacturer specification for screen size.
> 
> I will be munching popcorn on my 165-in screen tomorrow night.


Movie nights ✅ 
Sport nights ✅
And no need to travel to Qatar World Cup.

I´m streaming using DAZN @1080p (MEMC set off)
Another WOW factor for me even for HD.

Taken indoors










Taken Outdoor (Full terrace window open, sunset evening).










@humax: yes, the wall introduce border imperfections, but is noticeable only if you stare at the roof interface and bright images. Since the screen size is to big, your viewing angle is concentrated at the middle of the screen, and you will not notice it too much during sports or movies, at least for me.


----------



## Jsolohd

Having a hard time search previous post on this iPhone. Sorry if this has been shared.

lattiboy and m0j0 what screens are you using? Your pictures look good!


----------



## JackB

m0j0 said:


> Was too tired to post pics last night after the color tweaks. Here's a "few"...
> 
> Note: The Encanto pics have some blue oversaturation in them from the camera and are not like that on screen.


m0j0,

I've noticed in many of your pictures a skin tone blowout. I'm sure blowout is the wrong term but I can't remember the right term. It's when parts of the skin lose their fine focus and texture and look a little brighter. Usually in part of the skin area like the center of a forehead. I get it on my projectors and OLEDs when watching my Giants home baseball games. Parts of their white uniforms will turn solid white instead of showing the texture of the uniform in that area.

I know that with proper calibration this can be fixed although the "pop" of the picture will diminish. That's what concerns me about the T1. Without the proper calibration tools you won't be able to fix the problem. 

All that being said, maybe the problem I describe is in your photos and not in the T1's picture. What do you think?


----------



## m0j0

JackB said:


> m0j0,
> 
> I've noticed in many of your pictures a skin tone blowout. I'm sure blowout is the wrong term but I can't remember the right term. It's when parts of the skin lose their fine focus and texture and look a little brighter. Usually in part of the skin area like the center of a forehead. I get it on my projectors and OLEDs when watching my Giants home baseball games. Parts of their white uniforms will turn solid white instead of showing the texture of the uniform in that area.
> 
> I know that with proper calibration this can be fixed although the "pop" of the picture will diminish. That's what concerns me about the T1. Without the proper calibration tools you won't be able to fix the problem.
> 
> All that being said, maybe the problem I describe is in your photos and not in the T1's picture. What do you think?


Yeah, it’s mostly just in the photos. If I see that in real life I will turn down contrast some.


----------



## m0j0

Jsolohd said:


> Having a hard time search previous post on this iPhone. Sorry if this has been shared.
> 
> lattiboy and m0j0 what screens are you using? Your pictures look good!


I have an XYScreens Pet Crystal ALR screen


----------



## m0j0

manwithnoname said:


> Hey M0j0,
> Love your results from the Vertex and am going to order one. I have a very stupid question though... What is the method for configuring the Vertex? Is it done on the projector display screen, or do you use a PC/web browser/serial cable to manage the settings?
> Thank you!


You can either do it directly on the device screen, or via web browser on the PC.


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> Well, this is an evolving opinion based on a lot of research and pics from various AVS Forum posters. And, I'm sure it's not without controversy. But here it goes - specifically for UST projectors - I'm starting to believe that avoiding ALR screens, if you can, provides the best picture quality. One caveat - - if someone is hell bent on watching during the daytime with light pouring in. And, if they have a lot of people viewing at off center angles. Otherwise, I think specific UST ALR screens can dim the picture and also be more subject to laser speckle and even rainbows.
> 
> A very cost effective option is the SilverTicket gray, 1.0 gain, thin bezel (velvet wrapped), that is optimal for a low level light "multipurpose" room with a UST laser projector. The velvet wrapped frame will help with any overscan which is quite common with PITA UST projectors as they have no horizontal or vertical shift. It will have some ALR properties but primarily is best for dark viewing environments with little ambient light. On the higher end, the Stewart Tiburon G4 gray screen is top notch - - but with a larger bezel. For a "Velvet Elvis" bat cave, a white screen is always best, IMHO.


I use my UST in the living room and there are almost always some sort of lights on, either some ambient light or kitchen lights in the evening. An ALR screen is the only option for my setup. I don't really have a problem with too dim of a picture, but I do hate me some grey borders, and I get that a lot at night if I turn out the lights. Probably a lower gain screen would give me a better black level and less grey borders, but then I might experience the more dim picture you mention, so it's always going to be some sort of trade off.


----------



## zaselim

So when I decrease rgb gain, to me it feels it also decreases the brightness (of colors if not overall brightness) and i really liked m0j0's new rgb settings. So based on those rgb settings (green as main value, then red has -40 and the blue has -80 in it) i set the value from default green value 1024 (making Red: 984, Green:1024, Blue: 944).
So it makes my current View Mode
Brightness: 52
Contrast: 54
Saturation: 50
Sharpness: 50
Tone: 49
Color temp: R-984, G-1024, B-944.
It looks good but I still like the office mode because it has more light in it and looks more punchy and because of that it looks more closer to the 4k TV like in terms of brightness/backlight. I just wish that in the official update release they add for the rgb sliders to actually change the colors when increase/decrease so i can correct the rgb colors in office mod because as of now they don't change anything in the mode and it is only in office mode. I can change the sliders in rest of the modes.
Please note i have a 120" nornal white screen with 0.8 or 0.9 gain. It has a bit of doted texrure in it and bacuse of that i see some speckle mostly on red colored areas. But i will be replacing it with matt white flat surfaced screen at 0.8 or 0.9 gain screen because it is the better way to get very little to no speckle with laser projectors if you can't afford these special screen specially designed for speckle problem in mind i have read about. And like people say here in the thread that non alr screen are only affective when you have a light controlled room like i have with no outside light coming in.


----------



## Grazed

Man once you get this projector dialed in it is a game changer. I don't know how I dealt with the blacks greys on the Optoma P2 for so long. Thank you @m0j0 for the baseline settings on the Vertex 2. I used them then did some more tweaking on my end to get it to look good on my screen and light controlled room. I found the perfect balance to use between all my sources so I don't have to mess with settings anymore. Threw in some photos I took recently while browsing for HDR content on YouTube.


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> I use my UST in the living room and there are almost always some sort of lights on, either some ambient light or kitchen lights in the evening. An ALR screen is the only option for my setup. I don't really have a problem with too dim of a picture, but I do hate me some grey borders, and I get that a lot at night if I turn out the lights. Probably a lower gain screen would give me a better black level and less grey borders, but then I might experience the more dim picture you mention, so it's always going to be some sort of trade off.


I think ALR properties and the angular reflective surface mess with picture quality. Certainly brightness. The XY Pet Crystal is a .6 gain (advertised as .8) Your pictures look great but even though I'll be in a multipurpose living room, virtually all of my viewing will be at night with a distant kitchen light on. Like you said - - it's all about trade-offs and what fits your situation the best.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Grazed said:


> Man once you get this projector dialed in it is a game changer. I don't know how I dealt with the blacks greys on the Optoma P2 for so long. Thank you @m0j0 for the baseline settings on the Vertex 2. I used them then did some more tweaking on my end to get it to look good on my screen and light controlled room. I found the perfect balance to use between all my sources so I don't have to mess with settings anymore. Threw in some photos I took recently while browsing for HDR content on YouTube.


Wow - really nice! What screen are you using? Can you post your settings?


----------



## Grazed

Ricoflashback said:


> Wow - really nice! What screen are you using? Can you post your settings?


I'm using an Elite Screens DarkUST. My settings are still very similar to the settings M0j0 used besides a few tweaks.

Projector Settings: 

Brightness Mode - View


















Vertex 2 Settings: (Only change was I use 200 nits for MAX luminance and 0 MIN luminance. I found that it allows me to put the brightness down on the projector to get the deepest blacks without losing any detail in shadows or highlights)









My go to test for highlights is The Meg on 4K Blu-ray mainly the open water scenes. I remember first watching it on my Optoma P2 and the sky was pure white. It's nice to actually see the blue in there now lol. For shadow detail I went between Alita: Battle Angel and Game of Thrones "The Long Night" episode.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Grazed said:


> I'm using an Elite Screens DarkUST. My settings are still very similar to the settings M0j0 besides a few tweaks.
> 
> Projector Settings: (Only change was Brightness and Contrast numbers)
> Brightness Mode - View
> Brightness - 49
> Contrast - 72
> Saturation - 44
> Sharpness - 22
> Tone - 52
> Dynamic Contrast - Off
> Red - 903
> Green - 952
> Blue - 872
> 
> Vertex 2 Settings: (Only change was I use 200 nits for MAX luminance and 0 MIN luminance. I found that it allows me to put the brightness down on the projector to get the deepest blacks without losing any detail in shadows or highlights)
> View attachment 3267027
> 
> 
> My go to test for highlights is The Meg 4K Blu-ray in the open water scenes. I remember first watching it on my Optoma P2 and the sky was pure white. Nice to actually see the blue in there now lol. For shadow detail I browsed between Alita: Battle Angel the fight scene under the bar and Game of thrones "The Long Night" episode.


Much thanks! No wonder you’re getting such deep blacks with the Elite Darkstar UST .6 gain screen. That reminds me of the Ambient Visionaire material.

How are the white levels and bright scenes?

P.S. - interesting review of ALR screens from Projector Central





__





Ambient Light Rejection Screens (ALR Screens) Shoot-Out


Detailed comparison of eleven ambient light rejection screens



www.projectorcentral.com


----------



## humax

Grazed said:


> Man once you get this projector dialed in it is a game changer. I don't know how I dealt with the blacks greys on the Optoma P2 for so long.




Yes, that is the general idea. Many people will not even bother whether the colors are accurate or not as long as they are impressive, but even the most "I could care less" viewer will notice grey blacks and haze in dark scenes. In fact, if someone points it out, it is all they start noticing and soon it becomes annoying and they begin looking for alternatives.


----------



## Ricoflashback

humax said:


> Yes, that is the general idea. Many people will not even bother whether the colors are accurate or not as long as they are impressive, but even the most "I could care less" viewer will notice grey blacks and haze in dark scenes. In fact, if someone points it out, it is all they start noticing and soon it becomes annoying and they begin looking for alternatives.


Humax - hats off to you for enlightening me about ALPD 4.0 projectors and the Fengmi T1. I think our discussion began way back when discussing the intro of the PX1-PRO. To me, the lack of haze (#1) and then the astounding black levels (#2) caught my attention. The cherry on the top was the stunning colors from the AVS Forum pics that really that really opened up my eyes. I never thought this was possible with a DLP projector.


----------



## Grazed

Ricoflashback said:


> Much thanks! No wonder you’re getting such deep blacks with the Elite Darkstar UST .6 gain screen. That reminds me of the Ambient Visionaire material.
> 
> How are the white levels and bright scenes?


The white levels are great and on the brightest scenes that I tested I do not get any clipping of highlights. I also have more brightness than I could ever need in my dedicated room. I may eventually switch to my brightness to "Night" if it gets too bothersome when I completely black out my room (currently have white walls) and been browsing through the The Blacker the Theater, The Better the Image thread.


----------



## m0j0

Grazed said:


> I'm using an Elite Screens DarkUST. My settings are still very similar to the settings M0j0 besides a few tweaks.
> 
> Projector Settings: (Only change was Brightness and Contrast numbers)
> Brightness Mode - View
> Brightness - 49
> Contrast - 72
> Saturation - 44
> Sharpness - 22
> Tone - 52
> Dynamic Contrast - Off
> Red - 903
> Green - 952
> Blue - 872
> 
> Vertex 2 Settings: (Only change was I use 200 nits for MAX luminance and 0 MIN luminance. I found that it allows me to put the brightness down on the projector to get the deepest blacks without losing any detail in shadows or highlights)
> View attachment 3267027
> 
> 
> My go to test for highlights is The Meg 4K Blu-ray in the open water scenes. I remember first watching it on my Optoma P2 and the sky was pure white. Nice to actually see the blue in there now lol. For shadow detail I browsed between Alita: Battle Angel the fight scene under the bar and Game of thrones "The Long Night" episode.


Nice work! Thanks for sharing!


----------



## m0j0

Grazed said:


> The white levels are great and on the brightest scenes that I tested I do not get any clipping of highlights. I also have more brightness than I could ever need in my dedicated room. I may eventually switch to my brightness to "Night" if it gets too bothersome when I completely black out my room (currently have white walls) and been browsing through the The Blacker the Theater, The Better the Image thread.


Then you are soon to learn about triple black velvet….


----------



## Grazed

m0j0 said:


> Then you are soon to learn about triple black velvet….


Oh I saw and I am trying to stop myself from going all out


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> Then you are soon to learn about triple black velvet….


I always thought that “Triple Black Velvet” would make a great bourbon name.


----------



## zoomx2

All members are trying to squeeze the best out of this unit. I spend this afternoon adjusting my setting again. Red 1001, Green 964, Blue 951 it gives me the best temperature. View mode, brightness 60, Contrast 48, Sat 50, DC On. It gives me the most natural skin tone and color saturation.


----------



## rjyap

Guys, the best way to find the right contrast and brightness is to use Black Clipping and White Clipping test pattern. Reference black is at 16 and below and Reference white is 235 and above. I never change any parameters once I dial that in. Sometime it's the source material that is having issue, not the settings of the projector. You can download MP4-2c calibration test pattern from display calibration section. Also if you adjust RGB gain, make sure to cross check the reference black and white settings again. Calibration is an iterative process and always cross check with basic test pattern to ensure you didn't crush black or blow out white.


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

rjyap said:


> You can download MP4-2c calibration test pattern from display calibration section.


For those interested, I believe the patterns can be found here:









AVS HD 709 - Blu-ray & MP4 Calibration


INTRODUCTION This project aims to provide a free set of calibration patterns for high definition (HD) video players. You will find downloads here to create discs for Blu-ray and AVCHD players, a version with MP4 video for computers or other compatible devices, and a Patterns Manual with some...




www.avsforum.com





@rjyap, please let us know if you were referring to different files.


----------



## Grazed

rjyap said:


> Guys, the best way to find the right contrast and brightness is to use Black Clipping and White Clipping test pattern. Reference black is at 16 and below and Reference white is 235 and above. I never change any parameters once I dial that in. Sometime it's the source material that is having issue, not the settings of the projector. You can download MP4-2c calibration test pattern from display calibration section. Also if you adjust RGB gain, make sure to cross check the reference black and white settings again. Calibration is an iterative process and always cross check with basic test pattern to ensure you didn't crush black or blow out white.


Yup, for me I use the Spears & Munsil 4K disc patterns for getting the bulk of calibration done on my blu-ray player then I double check the settings to make sure they also look good on my Apple TV 4K using this calibration playlist which actually includes some of the AVS HD 709 patterns.


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

Grazed said:


> ...then I double check the settings to make sure they also look good on my Apple TV 4K using this calibration playlist which actually includes some of the AVS HD 709 patterns.


Thanks, @Grazed - that's a fantastic resource!


----------



## m0j0

zoomx2 said:


> All members are trying to squeeze the best out of this unit. I spend this afternoon adjusting my setting again. Red 1001, Green 964, Blue 951 it gives me the best temperature. View mode, brightness 60, Contrast 48, Sat 50, DC On. It gives me the most natural skin tone and color saturation.
> View attachment 3267134
> 
> View attachment 3267133


I played with dynamic contrast several times and just couldn't get it to work well for me. In some cases, it works, and in others, it just doesn't give me a good picture. It's just too inconsistent for me as it is now. Hopefully they keep working to improve it in future firmware updates.


----------



## Grazed

m0j0 said:


> I played with dynamic contrast several times and just couldn't get it to work well for me. In some cases, it works, and in others, it just doesn't give me a good picture. It's just too inconsistent for me as it is now. Hopefully they keep working to improve it in future firmware updates.


Agreed, I noticed it crushed blacks on some dark scenes but on others it brought out detail. It became just a nuisance to deal with honestly.


----------



## eezrider

Ricoflashback said:


> Well, this is an evolving opinion based on a lot of research and pics from various AVS Forum posters. And, I'm sure it's not without controversy. But here it goes - specifically for UST projectors - I'm starting to believe that avoiding ALR screens, if you can, provides the best picture quality. One caveat - - if someone is hell bent on watching during the daytime with light pouring in. And, if they have a lot of people viewing at off center angles. Otherwise, I think specific UST ALR screens can dim the picture and also be more subject to laser speckle and even rainbows.
> 
> A very cost effective option is the SilverTicket gray, 1.0 gain, thin bezel (velvet wrapped), that is optimal for a low level light "multipurpose" room with a UST laser projector. The velvet wrapped frame will help with any overscan which is quite common with PITA UST projectors as they have no horizontal or vertical shift. It will have some ALR properties but primarily is best for dark viewing environments with little ambient light. On the higher end, the Stewart Tiburon G4 gray screen is top notch - - but with a larger bezel. For a "Velvet Elvis" bat cave, a white screen is always best, IMHO.


You don't need light streaming in to benefit from an ALR screen. You only need to have low level ambient light present to value the punch provided by an ALR. I have the Vividstorm in a multipurpose living room, and while it's not great with sun shining in the room I get a great picture with no curtains drawn from mid afternoon on. And it's stunning at night. And no need to get anal about keeping the lights off for fear of ruining the contrast. Good enough that my wife volunteeted that I could move our OLED to another room as a gaming screen for me. When you get your T1 you'll be better able to tell what works for you.


----------



## eezrider

m0j0 said:


> Yeah, it’s mostly just in the photos. If I see that in real life I will turn down contrast some.


@m0j0 is pushing the projector using a vertex. I want to stress you do not need a vertex to get a great image with the V2 software. The T1 absolutely doesn't have problems with blown out highlights natively. It has fantastic pop, rich accurate colors, and jaw dropping contrast. I plan to get the Roku Ultra to see how LLDV looks natively and might try a vertex, but its hard to justify. I would hate for anyone to look at M0j0s pics and think a vertex is required to get great images. I think with all the pics and setting variations he's posted it's easy to get the impression that somehow what he's doing is essential. I promise you, it's not.


----------



## ted_b

Thank you, @eezrider, for those honest thoughts about where this pj is at (given V2 of course). But I also love that @m0j0 and @lattiboy, among others, are indeed pushing the T1 to what it can do. Me, I'm excited to finally install my T1/Vividstorm very soon (I stare at them daily), dial it in to what you are seeing...... and then to decide if the extra $300 or even the $600 for the HD Fury processors is necessary as my present to myself.


----------



## 3sprit

Malaveae said:


> Sport nights ✅


⚫🔵🙂


----------



## Ricoflashback

eezrider said:


> You don't need light streaming in to benefit from an ALR screen. You only need to have low level ambient light present to value the punch provided by an ALR. I have the Vividstorm in a multipurpose living room, and while it's not great with sun shining in the room I get a great picture with no curtains drawn from mid afternoon on. And it's stunning at night. And no need to get anal about keeping the lights off for fear of ruining the contrast. Good enough that my wife volunteeted that I could move our OLED to another room as a gaming screen for me. When you get your T1 you'll be better able to tell what works for you.


If you’re happy with the lights on, then by all means, wash out your picture. It’s your personal choice. As long as you are happy - that’s all that counts. I’d rather have a fixed screen as I believe the picture quality is better. Glad you like your Vividstorm. It can work where you have no other alternatives. To me, it’s a mechanical failure just waiting to happen.


----------



## gen_x

Well just received my T1 and projected on my 10ft wide 2.35 white screen. Looks good out of the box with my htpc. I can tell that the focus is a little off with top corners vs the bottom ones in the focus screen but would assume normal at this point with screen size. Let me know if not!


----------



## zoomx2

m0j0 said:


> I played with dynamic contrast several times and just couldn't get it to work well for me. In some cases, it works, and in others, it just doesn't give me a good picture. It's just too inconsistent for me as it is now. Hopefully they keep working to improve it in future firmware updates.


I watch all the different sources of content. I don't have Vertax2 just direct streaming to T1 from my media player. I know it is not HDR format anyway so I don't force HDR ON from the media player. T1 DC On makes the difference for sure. The picture gets darker and layers which HDR suppose to be. It works well for me, not for everyone since different ways to set it up.


----------



## m0j0

I just got an HDFury Vrroom and set it up last night. I settled on a 150 nit DV setting, but really it wasn't too much different than the 140 nit DV setting I had with the Vertex2. I did find though that I could go up to as high as 650-700 nits, but that only looked good when I was testing really high nit DV test material, so dropped it back down to 150 and getting really good results with it there. Also of note, my T1 now turns on automatically when I use my harmony remote to turn on the AVR and Roku. It didn't do that before, so that is new for me. It looks like Vrroom gets frequent firmware udpates (most recent was Apr 2nd). The Vertex2 hasn't had a new firmware in probably a year, so maybe they updated CEC functionality in the Vrroom, not sure.

Edit: I'm now thinking I just had my Vertex2 setup wrong with regard to the CEC stuff. I think I must have had my connection going to HDMI TX1, which doesn't include CEC. I think with the vrroom I must have plugged in to HDMI TX0 and that does support CEC, so that might be all it was with me now getting the ability to turn on the T1 when my AVR and Roku power on....


----------



## eezrider

m0j0 said:


> I just got an HDFury Vrroom and set it up last night. I settled on a 150 nit DV setting, but really it wasn't too much different than the 140 nit DV setting I had with the Vertex2. I did find though that I could go up to as high as 650-700 nits, but that only looked good when I was testing really high nit DV test material, so dropped it back down to 150 and getting really good results with it there. Also of note, my T1 now turns on automatically when I use my harmony remote to turn on the AVR and Roku. It didn't do that before, so that is new for me. It looks like Vrroom gets frequent firmware udpates (most recent was Apr 2nd). The Vertex2 hasn't had a new firmware in probably a year, so maybe they updated CEC functionality in the Vrroom, not sure.


Interesting. What was it that caused you to upgrade to the Vroom?


----------



## m0j0

eezrider said:


> Interesting. What was it that caused you to upgrade to the Vroom?


Was interested to see if there were any new features that I could take advantage of.








8K VRROOM 40Gbps | HDFury.com | Connect and Fix everything in HDMI


WORLD’S FIRST 8K VRR and HDMI 2.1 sound extractor that allows FULL AUDIO (up to receivers audio specs) from ANY external HDMI source to ANY HDMI/ARC or eARC sound system.




hdfury.com


----------



## m0j0

Nighttime setup for the Vrroom (brightness mode set to view mode and previous custom color settings still in place):



























Daytime (ambient light) setup (brightness mode set to view mode and previous custom color settings still in place):


----------



## m0j0

Pics from last night:


----------



## m0j0

Pics from this morning:


----------



## lattiboy

zoomx2 said:


> All members are trying to squeeze the best out of this unit. I spend this afternoon adjusting my setting again. Red 1001, Green 964, Blue 951 it gives me the best temperature. View mode, brightness 60, Contrast 48, Sat 50, DC On. It gives me the most natural skin tone and color saturation.
> View attachment 3267134
> 
> View attachment 3267133


This is a very fair point and one I’ve made previously, you absolutely don’t need a Vertex or any other processor for this thing with V2. V1.4….. less so.

I will say that Dolby vision and HDR are much more accurate and less prone to color shifts when switching brightness modes. For me, it was worth the $500 for the Vertex 2, but if Fengmi gets their firmware better it could be made redundant really fast.

Also, I was just noticing this funny thing some people are playing where they have now established “best projector under $3500” as a category. They then compare this projector at $2500 to PJs costing $3500, which is a pretty interesting way to make $1000 seem like it doesn’t matter!

PS I still believe this is the best PJ at any price, but opinions are opinions.


----------



## ted_b

Sorry if this is slightly OT.

So...for our video (T1) purposes is the Vvrroom an updated Vertex2 (I see some folks calling it Vertex3 on some forums)? It seems marketed quite strongly at the audio side of things, but I assume the pq capabilities are rich enough for our T1 calibration needs? It's another $100+ over the Vertex2 and about 2x the Arcana.


----------



## jorgemurillo2012

Guess who got there T1 yesterday 🤪 but got it when I was on my way to Mexico 😔 had to ask my neighbor to grab it for me..he send me that pic lol...im supposed to leave tomorrow Sunday but I kinda want to go home today 😅 I'm trying to watch Monster Hunter that's the only reason I haven't seen the movie lol


----------



## m0j0

ted_b said:


> Sorry if this is slightly OT.
> 
> So...for our video (T1) purposes is the Vvrroom an updated Vertex2 (I see some folks calling it Vertex3 on some forums)? It seems marketed quite strongly at the audio side of things, but I assume the pq capabilities are rich enough for our T1 calibration needs? It's another $100+ over the Vertex2 and about 2x the Arcana.


The vrroom is basically an arcana plus a Vertex2, but with the added benefit of more frequent firmware updates. I just tested one last night and found out that I can now turn on my T1 with my harmony remote, which I couldn't do before, so for me, that alone is worth the extra money. My wife has been giving me crap about the "TV" not turning on automatically like the old one since I bought the T1, so it makes me super happy to be able to check that box off.


----------



## m0j0

jorgemurillo2012 said:


> View attachment 3267281
> 
> Guess who got there T1 yesterday 🤪 but got it when I was on my way to Mexico 😔 had to ask my neighbor to grab it for me..he send me that pic lol...im supposed to leave tomorrow Sunday but I kinda want to go home today 😅 I'm trying to watch Monster Hunter that's the only reason I haven't seen the movie lol


Monster Hunter has some good action movie bass. It's kinda infamous in the Tactile Response aka "TR" space (for those that use tactile transducers and/or subs as tactile devices, like the HoverBOSS or HoverEze type setups).

Here's a video I took in my theater awhile back with my laptop on my lap watching Monster Hunter. You can see the crazy movement I was getting while watching this movie on my HoverEze seat. (Try not to watch the movie part if you haven't seen it, don't want to spoil it for you...)


----------



## Grazed

Made a final tweak on my settings which I have updated on my earlier post. Was playing some demo scenes and doing some gaming throughout the day while taking some pictures. Sources are a mix between the Sony UBP-X800M2 and Apple TV 4K both using LLDV. I stream my PC games using the moonlight app on the Apple TV. I also put some different pictures in the UST eye candy thread


----------



## Ricoflashback

Grazed said:


> Made a final tweak on my settings which I have updated on my earlier post. Was playing some demo scenes and doing some gaming throughout the day while taking some pictures. Sources are a mix between the Sony UBP-X800M2 and Apple TV 4K both using LLDV. I stream my PC games using the moonlight app on the Apple TV. I also put some different pictures in the UST eye candy thread


Nice! The horses in the snow pic is a great way to test contrast and shadow detail. It would be great to see the PX1-PRO, Xiaomi C2, BenQ 7050i, AWOL and other UST projectors with side to side comparisons. There are probably a couple other great scenes that will really show the differences in the UST projector landscape.


----------



## gostocks

jorgemurillo2012 said:


> View attachment 3267281
> 
> Guess who got there T1 yesterday 🤪 but got it when I was on my way to Mexico 😔 had to ask my neighbor to grab it for me..he send me that pic lol...im supposed to leave tomorrow Sunday but I kinda want to go home today 😅 I'm trying to watch Monster Hunter that's the only reason I haven't seen the movie lol


Congrats.. You should enjoy your vacation. Plenty of time to tinker and be obsessed with it after you get back. Enjoy your new toy/hobby soon.


----------



## m0j0

The girls enjoyed a little Mario Kart action today on the T1...


----------



## rjyap

lattiboy said:


> This is a very fair point and one I’ve made previously, you absolutely don’t need a Vertex or any other processor for this thing with V2. V1.4….. less so.
> 
> I will say that Dolby vision and HDR are much more accurate and less prone to color shifts when switching brightness modes. For me, it was worth the $500 for the Vertex 2, but if Fengmi gets their firmware better it could be made redundant really fast.
> 
> Also, I was just noticing this funny thing some people are playing where they have now established “best projector under $3500” as a category. They then compare this projector at $2500 to PJs costing $3500, which is a pretty interesting way to make $1000 seem like it doesn’t matter!
> 
> PS I still believe this is the best PJ at any price, but opinions are opinions.


Oh no. Please don't make this statement that it's the best at any price. I'm afraid JVC guy will come here and bombard us!


----------



## Aztar35

rjyap said:


> Oh no. Please don't make this statement that it's the best at any price. I'm afraid JVC guy will come here and bombard us!


Well even the JVC advocates have to admit the best consumer projector no matter the price is actually a DLP projector --not Lcos; not LCD, but a DLP projector called the Christie Eclipse.


----------



## Aztar35

m0j0 said:


> The girls enjoyed a little Mario Kart action today on the T1...
> 
> View attachment 3267498
> 
> 
> View attachment 3267501
> 
> 
> View attachment 3267502


Hi, m0j0. Have you thought about using the T1 with a bigger screen? It looks like you have the space. Guitarist Yngwie Malmsteen once said more is more. What a great saying to apply here.


----------



## m0j0

Aztar35 said:


> Hi, m0j0. Have you thought about using the T1 with a bigger screen? It looks like you have the space. Guitarist Yngwie Malmsteen once said more is more. What a great saying to apply here.


Maybe in the future. For now, 100" is plenty for the kids.


----------



## Joered101

m0j0 said:


> Maybe in the future. For now, 100" is plenty for the kids.


Hey M0j0,

thanks for all the photos. Wondering though have you done a calibration test to see how accurate the colours are for your settings? Would be curious to know.
Thank you!


----------



## MarcusD777

Wondering if anyone has used this projector with a larger 135” + white 1.0+ gain screen and how the black levels and focus corner to corner holds up? Currently have a 135” white screens I use with an LG HU85LA that I am happy with but this projector looks intriguing.


----------



## m0j0

Joered101 said:


> Hey M0j0,
> 
> thanks for all the photos. Wondering though have you done a calibration test to see how accurate the colours are for your settings? Would be curious to know.
> Thank you!


All of my testing related to color is just looking at a lot of different content and gauging skin tones, lip and hair color of people on the TV and different types of objects in demo videos like strawberries, flowers, etc, then just trying to ensure they look natural and normal and correct as possible. I don't have any type of calibration equipment other than the Spears and Munsil disk.


----------



## xrayg1971

m0j0 said:


> The vrroom is basically an arcana plus a Vertex2, but with the added benefit of more frequent firmware updates. I just tested one last night and found out that I can now turn on my T1 with my harmony remote, which I couldn't do before, so for me, that alone is worth the extra money. My wife has been giving me crap about the "TV" not turning on automatically like the old one since I bought the T1, so it makes me super happy to be able to check that box off.


i used your settings for mac and am able to turn on and off the t1 with my harmony one w/ hub .. turning ON works "most" of the time, turning off works all the time ..


----------



## xrayg1971

Aztar35 said:


> Hi, m0j0. Have you thought about using the T1 with a bigger screen? It looks like you have the space. Guitarist Yngwie Malmsteen once said more is more. What a great saying to apply here.


i wish i could afford a 120 alr .... i could only afford the 100 alr right now .. 120 or more would just be nuts ..... 100 is actually pretty good for an immersive experience


----------



## m0j0

Watched Aquaman last night. It looks pretty fantastic on the T1! I took some pictures, but they didn't turn out very good. Really doesn't do justice to the picture I was seeing. Also, I have come to the conclusion that a very high NIT setting is best on my Sony X800M2 4k blu ray player. I compared my normal 150 nit settings to a 4000 nit setting I was testing, and while the brightness was similar, the 4000 nit setting was more natural and accurate in comparison. The 4000 nit setting didn't carry over well to my Roku though, so it seems I will need a 150 nit setting for the Roku and a 4000 nit setting for the blu ray player.

Here's some pics, but again, they just don't convey how awesome the picture looked.


----------



## Aztar35

xrayg1971 said:


> i wish i could afford a 120 alr .... i could only afford the 100 alr right now .. 120 or more would just be nuts ..... 100 is actually pretty good for an immersive experience


Did you talk to Brian G./ @ProjectionHead to see what he can do? By the way, I use a Stewart screen and the images look as sharp as a tack.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Aztar35 said:


> Did you talk to Brian G./ @ProjectionHead to see what he can do? By the way, I use a Stewart screen and the images look as sharp as a tack.


What surface is the Tiburon G4? Is it a matte vinyl or some other fabric?


----------



## Aztar35

Ricoflashback said:


> What surface is the Tiburon G4? Is it a matte vinyl or some other fabric?


It's gray, slightly reflective and seems like vinyl. But Brian would know for sure.


----------



## Brajesh

Ricoflashback said:


> Nice! The horses in the snow pic is a great way to test contrast and shadow detail.


Where is this clip from? Vaguely recall it being part of the Spears & Munsil UHD calibration disc?


----------



## humax

MarcusD777 said:


> Wondering if anyone has used this projector with a larger 135” + white 1.0+ gain screen and how the black levels and focus corner to corner holds up?



There are two reports of using this at 155" and 165". It will work, but optimal size for most USTs is up to 120". Above that do not expect focus perfection across the screen, especially if you are not using an ALR. Black levels will be fine too. Brightness will also be fine in a dedicated room. You will need a brighter unit with ambient light though at 135".

On the other hand, you mentioned you already own a tri-laser from LG. I see no obvious reason for you to upgrade. It seems like a more consumer-friendly product than the T1 . The only real question is how are its black levels, black or grey? If you are happy with them, then I would stick with it a bit longer. The market will be flooded with RGB laser models soon enough.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Brajesh said:


> Where is this clip from? Vaguely recall it being part of the Spears & Munsil UHD calibration disc?


Good question. Maybe some other posters can chime in. It's a reference clip and if you can't see the background behind the horses, then you know you don't have optimal contrast.


----------



## humax

m0j0 said:


> Watched Aquaman last night. It looks pretty fantastic on the T1! I took some pictures, but they didn't turn out very good. Really doesn't do justice to the picture I was seeing.



Now that you have the T1, which one are you using most for movie watching, this or your Sony? Usually, when we get a new toy, we put our old ones aside for a while. Also, do you find the color lackluster on the Sony, now you have experienced RGB laser color?


----------



## humax

Brajesh said:


> Where is this clip from? Vaguely recall it being part of the Spears & Munsil UHD calibration disc?



It also says so here, so you must be right:

(3) madVR Envy Extreme Video Processor Review | AVForums


----------



## m0j0

humax said:


> Now that you have the T1, which one are you using most for movie watching, this or your Sony? Usually, when we get a new toy, we put our old ones aside for a while. Also, do you find the color lackluster on the Sony, now you have experienced RGB laser color?


I haven't been in the theater much, but it's not so much that I don't like the Sony, I just like to tweak things so right now, the T1 allows me to scratch that itch the best. Getting ready to do a few demo scenes in the theater now though (my brother is down from North Carolina for the weekend). I don't find the colors lacking on the Sony at all, honestly. ChadB calibrated it and I think he got it up to around 92 or 93% DCI-P3, and that was before I added the Vertex2 to it, so now it's really even better than when it was calibrated.


----------



## humax

Aztar35 said:


> Well even the JVC advocates have to admit the best consumer projector no matter the price is actually a DLP projector --not Lcos; not LCD, but a DLP projector called the Christie Eclipse.



Yes, this seems to be the only projector with oled-like blacks and insane specs, but the price and size are also insane. I wish someone would bring down the dual DMD tech to earthly levels price-wise. It would breathe new life into DLP performance and contrast ratios will skyrocket.


----------



## Grazed

Brajesh said:


> Where is this clip from? Vaguely recall it being part of the Spears & Munsil UHD calibration disc?


Yea, it's on the Spears and Munsil UHD disc.


----------



## humax

รีวิวภาพโปรเจคเตอร์ Xiaomi Fengmi T1 Projector รุ่นใหม่ล่าสุดปี 2022 (Part 5) - YouTube 

รีวิวภาพโปรเจคเตอร์ Xiaomi Fengmi T1 Projector รุ่นใหม่ล่าสุดปี 2022 (Part 6) - YouTube 

รีวิวภาพโปรเจคเตอร์ Xiaomi Fengmi T1 Projector รุ่นใหม่ล่าสุดปี 2022 (Part 7) - YouTube 

Three new short T1 demos.


----------



## m0j0

xrayg1971 said:


> i used your settings for mac and am able to turn on and off the t1 with my harmony one w/ hub .. turning ON works "most" of the time, turning off works all the time ..


Yeah, mine started off turning on but eventually wouldn’t turn on at all. I added a chromescast and was able to turn on and off with voice commands, and that was ok, but so much better now. It 100% turns on and the previous setup with configuring as a Mac works to turn it off.


----------



## jorgemurillo2012

It's bout to go down lol i had to pick up the apple tv 4k since @m0j0 and everyone saying this one pushes better DV and quality picture.


----------



## m0j0

Had a bit of a Eureka moment with my DV and HDR settings on my HDFury Vrroom tonight. Will share a bit more info tomorrow.

In the meantime, take a look at the two comparison pics and tell me if you can spot the differences.


----------



## humax

jorgemurillo2012 said:


> It's bout to go down lol i had to pick up the apple tv 4k since @m0j0 and everyone saying this one pushes better DV and quality picture.



I liked the original packaging better. This one is too plain. Again, enjoy your T1! What was your previous projector, by the way?


----------



## gen_x

Hi everyone where is the autofocus function? Is this something that can be disabled/enabled on the T1?


----------



## Grazed

m0j0 said:


> Had a bit of a Eureka moment with my DV and HDR settings on my HDFury Vrroom tonight. Will share a bit more info tomorrow.
> 
> In the meantime, take a look at the two comparison pics and tell me if you can spot the differences.


I can definitely see a huge difference. It is no longer blown out and I can actually see the freckles on her face.


----------



## Malaveae

In my opinion this projector satisfy my personal requirement as a "Home IMAX Cinema" (+155 inch screen size against a plain wall painted in light gray- low light room). 
I still will not give a full 5 star until I get the latest firmware (still on 1.4.xxx) and to see how they improve the DV tint issues and HDMI 2.0-2.1 detection. Some movies on DV mode (Fire TV sitck MAX streaming movies: Disney, Prime, Netflix) I´m getting a blue greenish tint on shadow details and also on bright (example: 1917). So DV color accuracy is a must to improve for this projector with the latest firmware or by special tech suplements (arcana, vertex2, whatever...) and tweaks ( thanks @m0j0 for your posts). I´m confident that "Fengmi-Formovie" shall solve it, since they are still listed in the Dolby Vision list of licensed manufacturer under the name: (Formovie (Chongqing) Innovative Technology Co., Ltd.)

I will not use this projector (or this technology yet) for a TV replacement (daily view), unless you pair it up with a suitable screen under the 120" inch (I´m sure you have plenty of experts on this forum to guide you there). Even then (in my opinion) it will not pass a LCD TV quality under a bright "sunny" room (is just physics, we are using a reflective screen). I think we still need emiting screens to overcome sunny days, and the current technology for a 146inch costs +100kUSD ((The Wall- Samsung).

Under FW1.4.xxx and +155in screen (wall) size, the focus suffers from middle top and mainly to the left size (probably wall distortion or T1 lens limitations for a +155 size). However is barely noticeable watching movies because you will not pause to see each frame and you can still read letters (see examples when I display "the poor T1" CMS menu). The following pictures does not represent the real thing due to my smartphone and internet compresion noise, but gives a near feel of what I'm looking. Some pictures you can see my TV screen reflection, (sorry for that). 

The following picture are from the suggested Spears and Munsil UHD disc scenes:
FW 1.4.xxx
Screen Size: 158" (wall-no screen)
Image Picture: Standard
Brightness: several T1 modes.
in some pictures I took the setting menu














































These scene are a real projector killer (black levels, brightness and shadows). The T1 still delivers shadow details and blacks with standard modes without calibration.
































Checkmate (to grey blacks under low light room)








However is a no-go to sunny days.








Get a ALR screen and lower screen size 
or go outside and enjoy the sunny day.
Thanks everyone for sharing your experience.
I´ll looking forward for next FW update, so see you on next firmware update.


----------



## humax

Malaveae said:


> I will not use this projector (or this technology yet) for a TV replacement (daily view), unless you pair it up with a suitable screen under the 120" inch (I´m sure you have plenty of experts on this forum to guide you there). Even then (in my opinion) it will not pass a LCD TV quality under a bright "sunny" room (is just physics, we are using a reflective screen). I think we still need emiting screens to overcome sunny days, and the current technology for a 146inch costs +100kUSD ((The Wall- Samsung).



USTs will claim a larger piece of the TV market, if they go brighter while still maintaining a decent contrast. Wemax D30 has four times the lumens of the T1 and in bright scenes it comes pretty close to an lcd panel.


----------



## zaselim

gen_x said:


> Hi everyone where is the autofocus function? Is this something that can be disabled/enabled on the T1?


T1 doesnt have auto focus, formovie support directly told me that.


----------



## m0j0

Grazed said:


> I can definitely see a huge difference. It is no longer blown out and I can actually see the freckles on her face.


Yep, and it's not just a few more freckles, but a whole freaking truck load of them! It's like it unlocked a whole other level of detail that I wasn't getting before!


----------



## Ricoflashback

humax said:


> USTs will claim a larger piece of the TV market, if they go brighter while still maintaining a decent contrast. Wemax D30 has four times the lumens of the T1 and in bright scenes it comes pretty close to an lcd panel.


I don't know if it's possible but if they can develop a UST projector like the Fengmi T1 with vertical and horizontal shift and lens memory - - that would open up the "scope" world to this PJ. Right now, you're really limited to a 16 x 9 screen. Sure, you can make it work with a scope screen but I'd venture to say that 99% of people with UST projectors have 16 x 9 screens.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Aztar35 said:


> It's gray, slightly reflective and seems like vinyl. But Brian would know for sure.


I contacted Stewart Filmscreen directly. They confirmed - 100% vinyl. Thanks.


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> Yep, and it's not just a few more freckles, but a whole freaking truck load of them! It's like it unlocked a whole other level of detail that I wasn't getting before!


I like the changes, but I think the queen would not What in the world did you do?


----------



## ProjectionHead

m0j0 said:


> Had a bit of a Eureka moment with my DV and HDR settings on my HDFury Vrroom tonight. Will share a bit more info tomorrow.
> 
> In the meantime, take a look at the two comparison pics and tell me if you can spot the differences.


Whatever you did looks like a big improvement; when are you going to publish the definitive T1 tweakers guide? 😉


----------



## ProjectionHead

Aztar35 said:


> It's gray, slightly reflective and seems like vinyl. But Brian would know for sure.


It is vinyl


----------



## ProjectionHead

Brajesh said:


> Where is this clip from? Vaguely recall it being part of the Spears & Munsil UHD calibration disc?


It is from the Spears & Munsil disc


----------



## xrayg1971

after having the t1 for several days now, i can say im very happy overall with the projector. And yes im useing it as a replacement for my tv in the LR on a 100 alr .6.. LR has some good ambient light and the picture is very watchable during the day but of course its shines when it gets darker .. 
def want the 2.0 firmware, focus is just ok on the top corners ... i find myself switching between custom (MOJO ) and some of the baked in colors depending what im watching. hdmi 2.0 & 2.1 can be a pain , im just leaving it on auto until the FW upgrade. im happy i can turn on and off with my harmony. overall im very happy with it ..


----------



## eezrider

donw said:


> I like the changes, but I think the queen would not What in the world did you do?


I think likely you've returned to the quality of some of your earlier postings. I had noticed that some of your recent batches of pictures had lost the snap/punch of earlier ones, so it's, good to see you've found that again. What did you change?


----------



## jorgemurillo2012

humax said:


> I liked the original packaging better. This one is too plain. Again, enjoy your T1! What was your previous projector, by the way?


This is actually My first projector I've been researching what to get since hisense 100L5F and optoma 1 but wasn't really convinced ...until now lol and I love it 😀 looks really good out of the box my girl was mad at first To be honest but once she saw it she like damn that looks good and I'm like we don't even have a screen yet ..just u wait lol


----------



## Brajesh

ProjectionHead said:


> Whatever you did looks like a big improvement; when are you going to publish the definitive T1 tweakers guide? 😉


May be a good idea to create a new T1 Settings & Tweaks thread.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Brajesh said:


> May be a good idea to create a new T1 Settings & Tweaks thread.


A spreadsheet could work, too. That's what we had for the Sony 900F LCD TV - - various settings posted by AVS Forum Members. This would be a little different in that the HD Fury Vertex 2 & Vrroom tweaks would be added. If it could be constructed where folks could post their settings - - that would be optimal. Either way - - having one location to view this information would be very helpful. Good idea.


----------



## sleeper37

I should be getting my T1 tomorrow if there are no hiccups. I just wanted to know if using an NVidia Shield Pro would work well with it. 

From reading through this thread, it seems like the best way to get a great picture is to use an HDFury device along with a Roku (or anything that can force LLDV). If I plan on getting an HD Fury device down the road, would it be worthwhile to pick up a Roku now?


----------



## ACE844

sleeper37 said:


> I should be getting my T1 tomorrow if there are no hiccups. I just wanted to know if using an NVidia Shield Pro would work well with it.
> 
> From reading through this thread, it seems like the best way to get a great picture is to use an HDFury device along with a Roku (or anything that can force LLDV). If I plan on getting an HD Fury device down the road, would it be worthwhile to pick up a Roku now?


I have a 2019 shield pro as well and I'm expecting my T1 in the next few days (It's sitting in CVG at the moment waiting for DHL to bother to throw it on a flight). IIRC @m0j0 also has one as well.


----------



## rooterha

m0j0 said:


> Yep, and it's not just a few more freckles, but a whole freaking truck load of them! It's like it unlocked a whole other level of detail that I wasn't getting before!


Eagerly awaiting the secret sauce


----------



## m0j0

Ok, so here's what I did to get another level of detail unlocked on my T1 with my HDFury Vrroom. I assume the same can be done with the Vertex2, etc. So, the last few days I've been seeing that I get better results when watching 4k blu rays on my Sony X800M2 if I run a very high NIT DV setting (I was testing with high NIT DV settings a few days ago with the Spears and Munsil UHD disc and I thought the demo videos looked a lot better and more detailed, so that got me thinking I need to do more testing and see if I can get those same kind of results for all content across all devices). I didn't initially think it was translating over well to the Roku though, so I was still using a lower NIT DV setting there to ensure good brightness levels. Last night, I wanted to test my Zidoo Z9X and see if it could also benefit from the high NIT DV setting, and it turns out, it did indeed! So, I was pretty stoked about that, and thought, I have to be wrong about the Roku, or I at least have to find a way to use the same high NIT DV setting but perhaps modify the TV settings a bit. So, I ended up being able to get a really good image on the Roku, but had to lower down the contrast by 5 from where I had it set with the Zidoo and the Sony blu ray player. So, it seems I can get a really good, detailed picture by using basically the same settings across all devices, except I have to slightly modify contrast by 5, depending on whether its the Roku, Zidoo Z9X or Sony X800M2.

One other thing of note. I was really thrown off by the Spears and Munsil benchmark testing, as it doesn't seem to work when using the high NIT DV values on the Vrroom. When I checked it, it showed my contrast was too high and saturation was way off, etc., but when I watched real world content, looking at scenes where I know I can detect crushing of white, etc, everything looked just fine. So, the contrast numbers I had to figure out on my own by watching a lot of content and testing for things myself.

So, here's the new DV and HDR tab settings from the Vrroom that I am using:



















For the Zidoo Z9X and Sony X800M2, here's the T1 custom settings I am using:
Brightness Mode: View Mode
Custom settings:
Brightness: 49
Contrast: 54
Saturation: 45
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 52
Color Custom:
Red: 903
Green: 952
Blue: 872 

For the Roku Ultra, here's the T1 custom settings I'm using:
Brightness Mode: View Mode
Custom Settings:
Brightness: 49
Contrast: 49
Saturation: 45
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 52
Color Custom:
Red: 903
Green: 952
Blue: 872 

And on the Roku Ultra, I am testing switching Brightness Mode from View to Office for daytime viewing, making no other changes. This seems to be working great so far (testing it while the kids are watching their shows during lunchtime today)


----------



## Grazed

m0j0 said:


> Ok, so here's what I did to get another level of detail unlocked on my T1 with my HDFury Vrroom. I assume the same can be done with the Vertex2, etc. So, the last few days I've been seeing that I get better results when watching 4k blu rays on my Sony X800M2 if I run a very high NIT DV setting (I was testing with high NIT DV settings a few days ago with the Spears and Munsil UHD disc and I thought the demo videos looked a lot better and more detailed, so that got me thinking I need to do more testing and see if I can get those same kind of results for all content across all devices). I didn't initially think it was translating over well to the Roku though, so I was still using a lower NIT DV setting there to ensure good brightness levels. Last night, I wanted to test my Zidoo Z9X and see if it could also benefit from the high NIT DV setting, and it turns out, it did indeed! So, I was pretty stoked about that, and thought, I have to be wrong about the Roku, or I at least have to find a way to use the same high NIT DV setting but perhaps modify the TV settings a bit. So, I ended up being able to get a really good image on the Roku, but had to lower down the contrast by 5 from where I had it set with the Zidoo and the Sony blu ray player. So, it seems I can get a really good, detailed picture by using basically the same settings across all devices, except I have to slightly modify contrast by 5, depending on whether its the Roku, Zidoo Z9X or Sony X800M2.
> 
> One other thing of note. I was really thrown off by the Spears and Munsil benchmark testing, as it doesn't seem to work when using the high NIT DV values on the Vrroom. When I checked it, it showed my contrast was too high and saturation was way off, etc., but when I watched real world content, looking at scenes where I know I can detect crushing of white, etc, everything looked just fine. So, the contrast numbers I had to figure out on my own by watching a lot of content and testing for things myself.
> 
> So, here's the new DV and HDR tab settings from the Vrroom that I am using:
> 
> View attachment 3268270
> 
> 
> View attachment 3268271
> 
> 
> For the Zidoo Z9X and Sony X800M2, here's the T1 custom settings I am using:
> Brightness Mode: View Mode
> Custom settings:
> Brightness: 49
> Contrast: 54
> Saturation: 45
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 52
> Color Custom:
> Red: 903
> Green: 952
> Blue: 872
> 
> For the Roku Ultra, here's the T1 custom settings I'm using:
> Brightness Mode: View Mode
> Custom Settings:
> Brightness: 49
> Contrast: 49
> Saturation: 45
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 52
> Color Custom:
> Red: 903
> Green: 952
> Blue: 872
> 
> And on the Roku Ultra, I am testing switching Brightness Mode from View to Office for daytime viewing, making no other changes. This seems to be working great so far (testing it while the kids are watching their shows during lunchtime today)


Interesting, I will need to check out some actual content with a higher max NIT value because just like you stated I tested it with 500 nits but on the contrast patterns on the spears and munsil disc everything was blown out so I didn’t bother going higher and kept lowering it until I reached my current value of 200.

Also I haven’t watched season 2 of the Witcher yet so do you mind sending the episode and time stamp on that scene? I am genuinely curious how she looks currently for me lol.


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

m0j0 said:


> Ok, so here's what I did to get another level of detail unlocked on my T1 with my HDFury Vrroom. I assume the same can be done with the Vertex2, etc. So, the last few days I've been seeing that I get better results when watching 4k blu rays on my Sony X800M2 if I run a very high NIT DV setting (I was testing with high NIT DV settings a few days ago with the Spears and Munsil UHD disc and I thought the demo videos looked a lot better and more detailed, so that got me thinking I need to do more testing and see if I can get those same kind of results for all content across all devices). I didn't initially think it was translating over well to the Roku though, so I was still using a lower NIT DV setting there to ensure good brightness levels. Last night, I wanted to test my Zidoo Z9X and see if it could also benefit from the high NIT DV setting, and it turns out, it did indeed! So, I was pretty stoked about that, and thought, I have to be wrong about the Roku, or I at least have to find a way to use the same high NIT DV setting but perhaps modify the TV settings a bit. So, I ended up being able to get a really good image on the Roku, but had to lower down the contrast by 5 from where I had it set with the Zidoo and the Sony blu ray player. So, it seems I can get a really good, detailed picture by using basically the same settings across all devices, except I have to slightly modify contrast by 5, depending on whether its the Roku, Zidoo Z9X or Sony X800M2.


Good stuff, @m0j0… thanks for the ongoing contributions to the community. Have you tried pushing the nits beyond your latest? See the two posts starting here…









Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on Projectors? Yes!


Yes for Dolby Vision content - it enables LLDV (Low Latency Dolby Vision) so that the playback source can tone map it appropriately to your display's capabilities (as set via the Vertex2's settings.) But not for SDR and HDR10 content, except for some playback devices such as Apple TV 4K, Sony...




www.avforums.com





I’m not sure if this is still his preferred setup, but at one point @Dave Harper (who I believe was one of the guys that originated this technique) was suggesting setting at 10,000.


----------



## zoomx2

sleeper37 said:


> I should be getting my T1 tomorrow if there are no hiccups. I just wanted to know if using an NVidia Shield Pro would work well with it.
> 
> From reading through this thread, it seems like the best way to get a great picture is to use an HDFury device along with a Roku (or anything that can force LLDV). If I plan on getting an HD Fury device down the road, would it be worthwhile to pick up a Roku now?


I bought a Firestick 4K max since it is on special for CAD $59. Directly connect to T1 HDMI port. CEC on so I can use the T1 remote only. Use the AppleTV app to stream a few movies Dolby Vision and Atmos both are very good with 2224 firmware. Youtube 4k HDR demo clips are absolute wowing using my custom setting. Maybe you should try it first.


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> Ok, so here's what I did to get another level of detail unlocked on my T1 with my HDFury Vrroom. I assume the same can be done with the Vertex2, etc. So, the last few days I've been seeing that I get better results when watching 4k blu rays on my Sony X800M2 if I run a very high NIT DV setting (I was testing with high NIT DV settings a few days ago with the Spears and Munsil UHD disc and I thought the demo videos looked a lot better and more detailed, so that got me thinking I need to do more testing and see if I can get those same kind of results for all content across all devices). I didn't initially think it was translating over well to the Roku though, so I was still using a lower NIT DV setting there to ensure good brightness levels. Last night, I wanted to test my Zidoo Z9X and see if it could also benefit from the high NIT DV setting, and it turns out, it did indeed! So, I was pretty stoked about that, and thought, I have to be wrong about the Roku, or I at least have to find a way to use the same high NIT DV setting but perhaps modify the TV settings a bit. So, I ended up being able to get a really good image on the Roku, but had to lower down the contrast by 5 from where I had it set with the Zidoo and the Sony blu ray player. So, it seems I can get a really good, detailed picture by using basically the same settings across all devices, except I have to slightly modify contrast by 5, depending on whether its the Roku, Zidoo Z9X or Sony X800M2.
> 
> One other thing of note. I was really thrown off by the Spears and Munsil benchmark testing, as it doesn't seem to work when using the high NIT DV values on the Vrroom. When I checked it, it showed my contrast was too high and saturation was way off, etc., but when I watched real world content, looking at scenes where I know I can detect crushing of white, etc, everything looked just fine. So, the contrast numbers I had to figure out on my own by watching a lot of content and testing for things myself.
> 
> So, here's the new DV and HDR tab settings from the Vrroom that I am using:
> 
> View attachment 3268270
> 
> 
> View attachment 3268271
> 
> 
> For the Zidoo Z9X and Sony X800M2, here's the T1 custom settings I am using:
> Brightness Mode: View Mode
> Custom settings:
> Brightness: 49
> Contrast: 54
> Saturation: 45
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 52
> Color Custom:
> Red: 903
> Green: 952
> Blue: 872
> 
> For the Roku Ultra, here's the T1 custom settings I'm using:
> Brightness Mode: View Mode
> Custom Settings:
> Brightness: 49
> Contrast: 49
> Saturation: 45
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 52
> Color Custom:
> Red: 903
> Green: 952
> Blue: 872
> 
> And on the Roku Ultra, I am testing switching Brightness Mode from View to Office for daytime viewing, making no other changes. This seems to be working great so far (testing it while the kids are watching their shows during lunchtime today)


m0j0 - great work, as always. But I think you'll always tinker and may never have one "set it and forget it" setting. For grins and my reference, I copied most of all your (and others) suggested settings (with/without the HD Fury Vertex 2) and have 49 pages and counting. Once I find the right setting, I doubt I'll do anything else. A pricey product like the madVR Envy Pro would solve any tinkering issues without the need for a Vertex 2 or VRROOM. Maybe in the cards depending how much our house sells for.


----------



## zoomx2

m0j0 said:


> Ok, so here's what I did to get another level of detail unlocked on my T1 with my HDFury Vrroom. I assume the same can be done with the Vertex2, etc. So, the last few days I've been seeing that I get better results when watching 4k blu rays on my Sony X800M2 if I run a very high NIT DV setting (I was testing with high NIT DV settings a few days ago with the Spears and Munsil UHD disc and I thought the demo videos looked a lot better and more detailed, so that got me thinking I need to do more testing and see if I can get those same kind of results for all content across all devices). I didn't initially think it was translating over well to the Roku though, so I was still using a lower NIT DV setting there to ensure good brightness levels. Last night, I wanted to test my Zidoo Z9X and see if it could also benefit from the high NIT DV setting, and it turns out, it did indeed! So, I was pretty stoked about that, and thought, I have to be wrong about the Roku, or I at least have to find a way to use the same high NIT DV setting but perhaps modify the TV settings a bit. So, I ended up being able to get a really good image on the Roku, but had to lower down the contrast by 5 from where I had it set with the Zidoo and the Sony blu ray player. So, it seems I can get a really good, detailed picture by using basically the same settings across all devices, except I have to slightly modify contrast by 5, depending on whether its the Roku, Zidoo Z9X or Sony X800M2.
> 
> One other thing of note. I was really thrown off by the Spears and Munsil benchmark testing, as it doesn't seem to work when using the high NIT DV values on the Vrroom. When I checked it, it showed my contrast was too high and saturation was way off, etc., but when I watched real world content, looking at scenes where I know I can detect crushing of white, etc, everything looked just fine. So, the contrast numbers I had to figure out on my own by watching a lot of content and testing for things myself.
> 
> So, here's the new DV and HDR tab settings from the Vrroom that I am using:
> 
> View attachment 3268270
> 
> 
> View attachment 3268271
> 
> 
> For the Zidoo Z9X and Sony X800M2, here's the T1 custom settings I am using:
> Brightness Mode: View Mode
> Custom settings:
> Brightness: 49
> Contrast: 54
> Saturation: 45
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 52
> Color Custom:
> Red: 903
> Green: 952
> Blue: 872
> 
> For the Roku Ultra, here's the T1 custom settings I'm using:
> Brightness Mode: View Mode
> Custom Settings:
> Brightness: 49
> Contrast: 49
> Saturation: 45
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 52
> Color Custom:
> Red: 903
> Green: 952
> Blue: 872
> 
> And on the Roku Ultra, I am testing switching Brightness Mode from View to Office for daytime viewing, making no other changes. This seems to be working great so far (testing it while the kids are watching their shows during lunchtime today)


You should send all your setting numbers to [email protected] so they can improve tone mapping in firmware updates. 😁


----------



## m0j0

Scott Rosenberg said:


> Good stuff, @m0j0… thanks for the ongoing contributions to the community. Have you tried pushing the nits beyond your latest? See the two posts starting here…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on Projectors? Yes!
> 
> 
> Yes for Dolby Vision content - it enables LLDV (Low Latency Dolby Vision) so that the playback source can tone map it appropriately to your display's capabilities (as set via the Vertex2's settings.) But not for SDR and HDR10 content, except for some playback devices such as Apple TV 4K, Sony...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avforums.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I’m not sure if this is still his preferred setup, but at one point @Dave Harper (who I believe was one of the guys that originated this technique) was suggesting setting at 10,000.


I knew he was using a 10,000 setting for the HDR tab, but didn't know he also was using 10,000 for DV tab. That's news to me, so I can definitely try that, but so far, 4,000 is looking fantastic!


----------



## m0j0

Grazed said:


> Interesting, I will need to check out some actual content with a higher max NIT value because just like you stated I tested it with 500 nits but on the contrast patterns on the spears and munsil disc everything was blown out so I didn’t bother going higher and kept lowering it until I reached my current value of 200.
> 
> Also I haven’t watched season 2 of the Witcher yet so do you mind sending the episode and time stamp on that scene? I am genuinely curious how she looks currently for me lol.


It's Season 2 Episode 6 at the 9 minute 30 second mark.


----------



## m0j0

Here's a few pictures from the most recent testing. I was able to see a lot more detail in faces, texture of clothing, etc., even more so than you can see from the pictures. It really was pretty amazing to see things kind of pop out at you that you hadn't seen before. Also, the HDR lighting effect was amazing when watching Encanto. Way more bright and eye popping than I could capture in pictures.


----------



## ACE844

m0j0 said:


> I knew he was using a 10,000 setting for the HDR tab, but didn't know he also was using 10,000 for DV tab. That's news to me, so I can definitely try that, but so far, 4,000 is looking fantastic!


@m0j0 try here: Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on... @markswift2003 uploaded some of his 100-10,000 EDID custom curves for vroom and vertex.


----------



## m0j0

Also, these pictures came out really more bright than in person (sometimes happens when I'm trying to take pictures of really dark scenes), but I was surprised that I could actually see detail in the well. This whole underground dungeon scene used to be so dark for me that I could barely make out anything, much less see into the well.


----------



## Grazed

m0j0 said:


> It's Season 2 Episode 6 at the 9 minute 30 second mark.


Thanks, just got back home and snapped some pics of that scene with my current settings. Glad to confirm I don't need to adjust anything.


----------



## t333

guys
im playing with different picture settings..can you guys suggest a good custom settings for RGB as i feel like skin tones are tan/orange , with red on faces also visible . reducing red will eliminate that but makes the faces more yellow/tan.
using view mode brightness, color 50, tone 52
Custom RGB
R=1012
G=925
B=918
[im trying to get this close to warm temp, but choosing warm setting makes pic more greenish]


----------



## dami1337

m0j0 said:


> Had a bit of a Eureka moment with my DV and HDR settings on my HDFury Vrroom tonight. Will share a bit more info tomorrow.
> 
> In the meantime, take a look at the two comparison pics and tell me if you can spot the differences.


Btw seeing this detail with standard DV cinema view mode on 1.4 firmware via Apple TV source. Just in case anybody might think that some additional device is needed for great quality. 

Witcher, S2, Episode 6, min 9:30 for other T1 owners to check if you are curious


----------



## dami1337

t333 said:


> guys
> im playing with different picture settings..can you guys suggest a good custom settings for RGB as i feel like skin tones are tan/orange , with red on faces also visible . reducing red will eliminate that but makes the faces more yellow/tan.
> using view mode brightness, color 50, tone 52
> Custom RGB
> R=1012
> G=925
> B=918
> [im trying to get this close to warm temp, but choosing warm setting makes pic more greenish]


Maybe just wait another 2 weeks until 2.0 firmware comes out which is supposed to fix the red tint.


----------



## rooterha

dami1337 said:


> Maybe just wait another 2 weeks until 2.0 firmware comes out which is supposed to fix the red tint.


Only issue is it was also supposed to be out by the end of March. Hopefully the timeline is firm this time.


----------



## m0j0

t333 said:


> guys
> im playing with different picture settings..can you guys suggest a good custom settings for RGB as i feel like skin tones are tan/orange , with red on faces also visible . reducing red will eliminate that but makes the faces more yellow/tan.
> using view mode brightness, color 50, tone 52
> Custom RGB
> R=1012
> G=925
> B=918
> [im trying to get this close to warm temp, but choosing warm setting makes pic more greenish]


Try this:
Saturation: 45
Tone: 52
Color Custom:
Red: 903
Green: 952
Blue: 872


----------



## m0j0

dami1337 said:


> Btw seeing this detail with standard DV cinema view mode on 1.4 firmware via Apple TV source. Just in case anybody might think that some additional device is needed for great quality.
> 
> Witcher, S2, Episode 6, min 9:30 for other T1 owners to check if you are curious


Thanks for checking. I don't doubt that the built-in modes are going to produce some good detail, as has been said by @lattiboy and others numerous times. My issue with the built-in modes is just a lack of dynamic range. Too dim for me as they stand now. That is where these HDFury devices come in. They help with better tone mapping. And they also still allow for use of all custom settings and controls.


----------



## jorgemurillo2012

Lost boys... straight from the box looks awsome


----------



## m0j0

jorgemurillo2012 said:


> View attachment 3268405
> 
> Lost boys... straight from the box looks awsome


Enjoy it man!


----------



## wltam

Hey Guys! I am struggling with getting really crisp and sharp images as some of you have (this while after adjusting these in the settings). I suspect that my placement ain’t good… can perhaps someone suggest on what to do? FYI - I am using a shield and a XY screen


----------



## m0j0

wltam said:


> Hey Guys! I am struggling with getting really crisp and sharp images as some of you have (this while after adjusting these in the settings). I suspect that my placement ain’t good… can perhaps someone suggest on what to do? FYI - I am using a shield and a XY screen


I would suggest going back in to the focus menu and holding down the left arrow for 10-15 seconds, then seeing how the focus looks. You can then go between 1 and 3 clicks to the right to try to balance out the focus in the corners. Also, you can wait for firmware version 2, as that provides some improvements to focus as well.


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> I would suggest going back in to the focus menu and holding down the left arrow for 10-15 seconds, then seeing how the focus looks. You can then go between 1 and 3 clicks to the right to try to balance out the focus in the corners. Also, you can wait for firmware version 2, as that provides some improvements to focus as well.


Is there a keystone adjustment at play? I don‘t have my Fengmi T1, yet, but everything I read says never to use a keystone adjustment. But that can’t be helped at times. As far as focus goes, the keystone adjustment works with my BenQ projector and the picture is razor sharp from edge to edge, corner to corner. But I do get a slight off screen, light reflection to the left of my electronic screen. Not enough to deter from watching anything.

With a UST PJ, it’s important to have a level screen that’s not tilted in any way or fashion. A laser level can help with that. Not all walls are perfectly perpendicular so I believe that can affect focus, as well.


----------



## m0j0

Pulled up this picture from 12 days ago and compared to last night's picture. It looks like I had a serious contrast issue back then, and this was before the custom color change as well.

Just goes to show this is all just a work in progress.


----------



## m0j0

And another comparison picture


----------



## jorgemurillo2012

m0j0 said:


> Pulled up this picture from 12 days ago and compared to last night's picture. It looks like I had a serious contrast issue back then, and this was before the custom color change as well.
> 
> Just goes to show this is all just a work in progress.


Are you doing this with the HDFury VRROOM?


----------



## m0j0

jorgemurillo2012 said:


> Are you doing this with the HDFury VRROOM?


Yes, all my changes are with an HDFury device in the chain.


----------



## Gig'em ATX

Ricoflashback said:


> I don't know if it's possible but if they can develop a UST projector like the Fengmi T1 with vertical and horizontal shift and lens memory - - that would open up the "scope" world to this PJ. Right now, you're really limited to a 16 x 9 screen. Sure, you can make it work with a scope screen but I'd venture to say that 99% of people with UST projectors have 16 x 9 screens.


I'm not a UST owner yet. I still have my Panasonic PT-AE3000U which has those abilities. It also zooms in when it detects scope content. 

Maybe a motorized shelf that would adjust from a 16:9 setting and then adjust the projector's distance to fit the image to a scope screen, instead of that happening inside of the machine. Assuming that there would need to be some focus adjustments, etc as well?


----------



## Ricoflashback

Gig'em ATX said:


> I'm not a UST owner yet. I still have my Panasonic PT-AE3000U which has those abilities. It also zooms in when it detects scope content.
> 
> Maybe a motorized shelf that would adjust from a 16:9 setting and then adjust the projector's distance to fit the image to a scope screen, instead of that happening inside of the machine. Assuming that there would need to be some focus adjustments, etc as well?


I think that would be a PITA and many folks couldn't accommodate a motorized shelf. It's probably a pipe dream as the glass lens and mechanics would be too prohibitive right now. Maybe in five years. I'd seriously consider a scope screen IF the Fengmi T1 had these capabilities. Perhaps the next upgrade.


----------



## Jsolohd

Ugh, you all make me want to buy one now lol Trying to hold out for any information on an international version later this month. Also v2.0 

Love all the informative post, will be upgrading from a 5030ub


----------



## spocky12

m0j0 said:


> Ok, so here's what I did to get another level of detail unlocked on my T1 with my HDFury Vrroom. I assume the same can be done with the Vertex2, etc. So, the last few days I've been seeing that I get better results when watching 4k blu rays on my Sony X800M2 if I run a very high NIT DV setting (I was testing with high NIT DV settings a few days ago with the Spears and Munsil UHD disc and I thought the demo videos looked a lot better and more detailed, so that got me thinking I need to do more testing and see if I can get those same kind of results for all content across all devices). I didn't initially think it was translating over well to the Roku though, so I was still using a lower NIT DV setting there to ensure good brightness levels. Last night, I wanted to test my Zidoo Z9X and see if it could also benefit from the high NIT DV setting, and it turns out, it did indeed! So, I was pretty stoked about that, and thought, I have to be wrong about the Roku, or I at least have to find a way to use the same high NIT DV setting but perhaps modify the TV settings a bit. So, I ended up being able to get a really good image on the Roku, but had to lower down the contrast by 5 from where I had it set with the Zidoo and the Sony blu ray player. So, it seems I can get a really good, detailed picture by using basically the same settings across all devices, except I have to slightly modify contrast by 5, depending on whether its the Roku, Zidoo Z9X or Sony X800M2.
> 
> One other thing of note. I was really thrown off by the Spears and Munsil benchmark testing, as it doesn't seem to work when using the high NIT DV values on the Vrroom. When I checked it, it showed my contrast was too high and saturation was way off, etc., but when I watched real world content, looking at scenes where I know I can detect crushing of white, etc, everything looked just fine. So, the contrast numbers I had to figure out on my own by watching a lot of content and testing for things myself.
> 
> So, here's the new DV and HDR tab settings from the Vrroom that I am using:
> 
> View attachment 3268270
> 
> 
> View attachment 3268271
> 
> 
> For the Zidoo Z9X and Sony X800M2, here's the T1 custom settings I am using:
> Brightness Mode: View Mode
> Custom settings:
> Brightness: 49
> Contrast: 54
> Saturation: 45
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 52
> Color Custom:
> Red: 903
> Green: 952
> Blue: 872
> 
> For the Roku Ultra, here's the T1 custom settings I'm using:
> Brightness Mode: View Mode
> Custom Settings:
> Brightness: 49
> Contrast: 49
> Saturation: 45
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 52
> Color Custom:
> Red: 903
> Green: 952
> Blue: 872
> 
> And on the Roku Ultra, I am testing switching Brightness Mode from View to Office for daytime viewing, making no other changes. This seems to be working great so far (testing it while the kids are watching their shows during lunchtime today)


Thanks for sharing your settings!
Fwiw, the exact same settings on my vertex2 generate a slightly different hex string on the DV tab : I have C8 instead of C9 in the 8th position.


----------



## Ricoflashback

From my understanding, sources capable of LLDV output for any DV content are virtually all the main streamers and many Blu-ray players. The Apple TV 4K and Roku Ultra are also capable of LLDV output for DV, HDR10 and SDR content. The HDFury adds the metadata to the signal. The player performs tone mapping of the Dolby Vision content, using the scene by scene metadata, and outputs LLDV as 4:2:2 12-bit BT2020.

The only reason to have the HDFury add HDR10 metadata to the LLDV output is so that HDR10 projectors know what to do with the input since they don't support Dolby Vision. That is, to switch to their HDR picture mode and process it as if it was HDR10.

***For SDR (4K content) - - if I have a cable signal that is upgraded to 4K by my DV capable AVR (Denon X6700H) and then to the HDFury and then to the display - - will any of the magic occur, tone mapping wise, with the HDFury? Or does it have to be native 4K/SDR? (Which is an oxymoron anyway with all the fake 4K out there already.)


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> From my understanding, sources capable of LLDV output for any DV content are virtually all the main streamers and many Blu-ray players. The Apple TV 4K and Roku Ultra are also capable of LLDV output for DV, HDR10 and SDR content. The HDFury adds the metadata to the signal. The player performs tone mapping of the Dolby Vision content, using the scene by scene metadata, and outputs LLDV as 4:2:2 12-bit BT2020.
> 
> The only reason to have the HDFury add HDR10 metadata to the LLDV output is so that HDR10 projectors know what to do with the input since they don't support Dolby Vision. That is, to switch to their HDR picture mode and process it as if it was HDR10.
> 
> ***For SDR (4K content) - - if I have a cable signal that is upgraded to 4K by my DV capable AVR (Denon X6700H) and then to the HDFury and then to the display - - will any of the magic occur, tone mapping wise, with the HDFury? Or does it have to be native 4K/SDR? (Which is an oxymoron anyway with all the fake 4K out there already.)


It’s a good question. I have a Nintendo Switch that is 1080p that I think is in the same boat. There is no player side LLDV being done so I think the HDFury device is just passing it through as SDR. It still looks good to me though and the T1 handles it fine.


----------



## m0j0

spocky12 said:


> Thanks for sharing your settings!
> Fwiw, the exact same settings on my vertex2 generate a slightly different hex string on the DV tab : I have C8 instead of C9 in the 8th position.


Interesting. Maybe due to it being a Vrroom or perhaps some other Vrroom specific check box I have selected somewhere?


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> It’s a good question. I have a Nintendo Switch that is 1080p that I think is in the same boat. There is no player side LLDV being done so I think the HDFury device is just passing it through as SDR. It still looks good to me though and the T1 handles it fine.


Yes - I misstated. Thanks for clarifying. The HDFury doesn’t do any processing itself but enables the end display (the projector) to process as SDR. The question is - - any metadata being passed through an upscaled HD signal to 4K? Worth experimenting. Thanks.


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> Yes - I misstated. Thanks for clarifying. The HDFury doesn’t do any processing itself but enables the end display (the projector) to process as SDR. The question is - - any metadata being passed through an upscaled HD signal to 4K? Worth experimenting. Thanks.


Can your cable be watched via an app? That would be you best bet I think.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Gig'em ATX said:


> I'm not a UST owner yet. I still have my Panasonic PT-AE3000U which has those abilities. It also zooms in when it detects scope content.
> 
> Maybe a motorized shelf that would adjust from a 16:9 setting and then adjust the projector's distance to fit the image to a scope screen, instead of that happening inside of the machine. Assuming that there would need to be some focus adjustments, etc as well?


We have a motorized UST shelf coming in soon from spectra, debited at the UST showcase. Powered by trigger when projector is on/off. Will be sharing some video soon


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> Can your cable be watched via an app? That would be you best bet I think.


I don’t think the source matters - especially if it’s broadcast TV. Since there are no broadcast 4K signals, the question is the processing or upscaling to 4K. I can tell you this - my Denon AVR (X6700H) does a very nice job of upscaling and sharpening my Comcast cable picture for my current projector. The picture quality is definitely noticeable. Maybe a question for Denon support to see if any LLDV metadata is passed through after upscaling.


----------



## Gig'em ATX

ProjectionHead said:


> We have a motorized UST shelf coming in soon from spectra, debited at the UST showcase. Powered by trigger when projector is on/off. Will be sharing some video soon


Awesome. I've even seen some DIY motorized shelves on youtube that are pretty cool. Using stepper motors, slides, and screw systems that make them retract back into a cabinet and then extend when turned on for viewing. The accuracy of the stepper motor makes it super repeatable and automatable as well.


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> I don’t think the source matters - especially if it’s broadcast TV. Since there are no broadcast 4K signals, the question is the processing or upscaling to 4K. I can tell you this - my Denon AVR (X6700H) does a very nice job of upscaling and sharpening my Comcast cable picture for my current projector. The picture quality is definitely noticeable. Maybe a question for Denon support to see if any LLDV metadata is passed through after upscaling.





Ricoflashback said:


> I don’t think the source matters - especially if it’s broadcast TV. Since there are no broadcast 4K signals, the question is the processing or upscaling to 4K. I can tell you this - my Denon AVR (X6700H) does a very nice job of upscaling and sharpening my Comcast cable picture for my current projector. The picture quality is definitely noticeable. Maybe a question for Denon support to see if any LLDV metadata is passed through after upscaling.


The point is the player needs to be able to force DV in order to get the Vertex2 trick to work. If there was an app, then it could run on a player that can force DV potentially. That is the reason I was asking.


----------



## m0j0

Tested 10,000 nit DV setting. Initial thought is it looks pretty much the same as the 4,000 nit DV setting I posted yesterday. Still, it ran fine and didn't pose any problems, so it seems you can either run 4,000 or 10,000 DV settings and get good results. I've attached a few comparison shots from Dune, one set from a week ago and one from tonight.

Edit: Also added a comparison slide from Witcher. One from a week ago and one from last night.


----------



## jeff9n

Hi. If I remember correctly, the lower cost Arcana can also be used in the same manner as Vertex to fix the color issue. Am I right? My Xiaomi 1S 4K projector has a bad HDR mode. Same problem as T1. Faces are too reddish. Since there is no firmware update, I am hoping to use something like Arcana. Vertex is a bit too expensive for me.



m0j0 said:


> Tested 10,000 nit DV setting. Initial thought is it looks pretty much the same as the 4,000 nit DV setting I posted yesterday. Still, it ran fine and didn't pose any problems, so it seems you can either run 4,000 or 10,000 DV settings and get good results. I've attached two comparison shots from Dune, one from the 13th of this month and one from tonight.


----------



## lattiboy

m0j0 said:


> Tested 10,000 nit DV setting. Initial thought is it looks pretty much the same as the 4,000 nit DV setting I posted yesterday. Still, it ran fine and didn't pose any problems, so it seems you can either run 4,000 or 10,000 DV settings and get good results. I've attached two comparison shots from Dune, one from the 13th of this month and one from tonight.


It is really odd, but I find using most all your settings with max DV at 400 to be perfect. Nails the color clipping test and looks great. When I get to 4000 and 10000 things look blown out for me. I increase contrast to 55 and brightness to 50 and saturation to 50. Give it a shot if you’re bored!


----------



## gostocks

Can experts on ALR screen owners tell me what is the main difference between Vividstorm vs XY brand for self rising? For 100" the price difference is 300-400usd.


----------



## gen_x

This was just posted at Nothinglabel. New version specs?


----------



## gen_x

Ricoflashback said:


> I don't know if it's possible but if they can develop a UST projector like the Fengmi T1 with vertical and horizontal shift and lens memory - - that would open up the "scope" world to this PJ. Right now, you're really limited to a 16 x 9 screen. Sure, you can make it work with a scope screen but I'd venture to say that 99% of people with UST projectors have 16 x 9 screens.


You can set a custom resolution on your source device like a HTPC for example a 2.35 screen I use 3840x1640 . You may know this already but sharing . I actually like the fact of less moving parts/options in a projector


----------



## mirkmito

gen_x said:


> This was just posted at Nothinglabel. New version specs?
> View attachment 3268593


Nothing changes ... only Android 11


----------



## humax

gen_x said:


> This was just posted at Nothinglabel. New version specs?


Yes, this seems like the international version. Only 2 GB Ram? Doesn't the Chinese version have 3 GB? The only difference is Android 11 and no Netflix support? Damn it, Fengmi!


----------



## xrayg1971

dami1337 said:


> Maybe just wait another 2 weeks until 2.0 firmware comes out which is supposed to fix the red tint.


lol yea i call it the lipstick issue ... looks like everyone is wearing red liipstick


----------



## xrayg1971

humax said:


> Yes, this seems like the international version. Only 2 GB Ram? Doesn't the Chinese version have 3 GB? The only difference is Android 11 and no Netflix support? Damn it, Fengmi!


seems like we made the right choice in going with the chinese ver


----------



## ACE844

Can we flash the intl firmware on the Cn units most of us have on hand? Is there any reason not to do that?


----------



## Pauljiang

gen_x said:


> This was just posted at Nothinglabel. New version specs?
> View attachment 3268593


I compare the New version to chinese one,the CPU change from MT 9669 to MT 9629 that means the Hardware decoding capabilities such as MEMC and Dynamic contrast ratio will be worse,and that may also effect to the price(maybe lower a littel bit),but if you use the external TV or player system, I think lower price and still good hardware capability that is very well balance for T1.


----------



## humax

Pauljiang said:


> I compare the New version to chinese one,the CPU change from MT 9669 to MT 9629 that means the Hardware decoding capabilities such as MEMC and Dynamic contrast ratio will be worse,and that may also effect to the price(maybe lower a littel bit),but if you use the external TV or player system, I think lower price and still good hardware capability that is very well balance for T1.



So, you are basically saying the new version is lower specked and worse hardware-wise than the Chinese version? What the heck? If it is also not cheaper, then what is the point of buying it?


----------



## humax

ACE844 said:


> Can we flash the intl firmware on the Cn units most of us have on hand? Is there any reason not to do that?



It sounds simple enough, but I suspect international firmwares will not be directly applicable to the Chinese version.


----------



## spocky12

humax said:


> So, you are basically saying the new version is lower specked and worse hardware-wise than the Chinese version? What the heck? If it is also not cheaper, then what is the point of buying it?


Not really surprising, it's always been like this.
I don't think memc will be impacted as I believe it's managed by a dedicated chip (it was like this for the latest projectors based on amlogic, not sure for mediatek).


----------



## Pauljiang

humax said:


> So, you are basically saying the new version is lower specked and worse hardware-wise than the Chinese version? What the heck? If it is also not cheaper, then what is the point of buying it?


Currently, I ask Foemove about the refresh rate of T1 is 60 Hz. It means the CPU MT9669(the Chinese one) which has 4K 120HZ MEMC capability is over using for hardware 60HZ limit, and the CPU MT9629 (intl version) has 4K 60HZ MEMC capability is enough to use.


----------



## gen_x

Pauljiang said:


> Currently, I ask Foemove about the refresh rate of T1 is 60 Hz. It means the CPU MT9669(the Chinese one) which has 4K 120HZ MEMC capability is over using for hardware 60HZ limit, and the CPU MT9629 (intl version) has 4K 60HZ MEMC capability is enough to use.


Interesting thanks for sharing this!


----------



## m0j0

lattiboy said:


> It is really odd, but I find using most all your settings with max DV at 400 to be perfect. Nails the color clipping test and looks great. When I get to 4000 and 10000 things look blown out for me. I increase contrast to 55 and brightness to 50 and saturation to 50. Give it a shot if you’re bored!
> 
> View attachment 3268561


I think when I had the Vertex2 I was experiencing similar issues at high NIT settings I was testing. It doesn't make sense that the Vrroom would be any different, but maybe it is. Glad to hear you are getting great results at 400 nits though, that is awesome!


----------



## ACE844

Pauljiang said:


> Currently, I ask Foemove about the refresh rate of T1 is 60 Hz. It means the CPU MT9669(the Chinese one) which has 4K 120HZ MEMC capability is over using for hardware 60HZ limit, and the CPU MT9629 (intl version) has 4K 60HZ MEMC capability is enough to use.


How can we unlock the 120hz capabilities on our CN versions? I read that it was only 60hz in the specs? Is it a firmware thing that we can untoggle with @spocky12 tools?


----------



## lattiboy

jeff9n said:


> Hi. If I remember correctly, the lower cost Arcana can also be used in the same manner as Vertex to fix the color issue. Am I right? My Xiaomi 1S 4K projector has a bad HDR mode. Same problem as T1. Faces are too reddish. Since there is no firmware update, I am hoping to use something like Arcana. Vertex is a bit too expensive for me.


Yes, I have the Arcana and it gets very close to the performance of the Vertex 2. Not quite as good with color accuracy, but still excellent. If you get one set LLDV to on, and Max nits to 200, color space to P3. That’s it.

I would wait for the new firmware to come out before getting one.


----------



## eezrider

ACE844 said:


> How can we unlock the 120hz capabilities on our CN versions? I read that it was only 60hz in the specs? Is it a firmware thing that we can untoggle with @spocky12 tools?


I recall reading that the underlying chip works at 60 Hz so it would not be possible to exceed that optically.


----------



## t333

m0j0 said:


> Try this:
> Saturation: 45
> Tone: 52
> Color Custom:
> Red: 903
> Green: 952
> Blue: 872


@m0j0 i tried your recommended settings, they seem to fix the issue i was having earlier, but made little change to red slider and very minor to blue slider [see below]: This setting seem to remove he red tint and also skin tones are not tan anymore.. but in fact it made faces more dull/white. i will still try to make further adjustments to settle on something i like. Really hoping new fw 2.0 to become available soon.
Color Custom:
Red: 999
Green: 952
Blue: 875


----------



## m0j0

t333 said:


> @m0j0 i tried your recommended settings, they seem to fix the issue i was having earlier, but made little change to red slider and very minor to blue slider [see below]: This setting seem to remove he red tint and also skin tones are not tan anymore.. but in fact it made faces more dull/white. i will still try to make further adjustments to settle on something i like. Really hoping new fw 2.0 to become available soon.
> Color Custom:
> Red: 999
> Green: 952
> Blue: 875


Try bringing up the saturation a bit more and take the red back down some until you find what you're looking for.


----------



## Brajesh

With the int'l version, looks like Fengmi is still advertising HDR10+. Hope they indeed add this to both versions.


----------



## xrayg1971

Brajesh said:


> With the int'l version, looks like Fengmi is still advertising HDR10+. Hope they indeed add this to both versions.


yea was thinking the same ... we only have hdr would be nice to get 10+


----------



## ACE844

xrayg1971 said:


> yea was thinking the same ... we only have hdr would be nice to get 10+


They advertise that it's capable in CN source sites and ad material? Example: FENGMI Formovie 4K Laser Projector T1 ALPD RGB+ Panchromatic 2800 ANSI Lumens 5G WIFI MEMC Automatically Eletric Focus Keystone Correction 3+64GB WIFI FENG OS 10.7Billion Color Display Home Cinema


----------



## kklwin

Hi there!
















I received the T1 two days ago from Banggood and have been testing on 120" Vividstorm with Roku ultra.
I am running into some issue with my T1 that the picture being blurred for a couple of seconds to minutes, similar to watching 3D without 3D glasses, and it fixed by itself.
It happens on all sources that I tried and even on the setup menu.
I have taken a couple of pics of the glitches that I mentioned.

Does anyone have any idea what is wrong with my T1 and how to potentially fix?


----------



## ACE844

Brajesh said:


> With the int'l version, looks like Fengmi is still advertising HDR10+. Hope they indeed add this to both versions.





mirkmito said:


> Nothing changes ... only Android 11


It also looks like they added additional BT2020 color space support as they are now advertising 107% coverage?


----------



## xrayg1971

kklwin said:


> Hi there!
> View attachment 3268783
> 
> View attachment 3268782
> 
> I received the T1 two days ago from Banggood and have been testing on 120" Vividstorm with Roku ultra.
> I am running into some issue with my T1 that the picture being blurred for a couple of seconds to minutes, similar to watching 3D without 3D glasses, and it fixed by itself.
> It happens on all sources that I tried and even on the setup menu.
> I have taken a couple of pics of the glitches that I mentioned.
> 
> Does anyone have any idea what is wrong with my T1 and how to potentially fix?


that happened to me a few times when doing the focus setup .. but usually moving it / nudging it on that focus page will get it to clear .. if its getting stuck there .. do a factory reset


----------



## m0j0

kklwin said:


> Hi there!
> View attachment 3268783
> 
> View attachment 3268782
> 
> I received the T1 two days ago from Banggood and have been testing on 120" Vividstorm with Roku ultra.
> I am running into some issue with my T1 that the picture being blurred for a couple of seconds to minutes, similar to watching 3D without 3D glasses, and it fixed by itself.
> It happens on all sources that I tried and even on the setup menu.
> I have taken a couple of pics of the glitches that I mentioned.
> 
> Does anyone have any idea what is wrong with my T1 and how to potentially fix?


So, you can get it to focus normally but then it just randomly loses focus, or you can never get it in focus correctly?


----------



## Brajesh

ACE844 said:


> It also looks like they added additional BT2020 color space support as they are now advertising 107% coverage?


Wonder if this is another marketing flub? Seems odd it would have better BT2020 coverage w/what seem to be lesser h/w specs.


----------



## kklwin

m0j0 said:


> So, you can get it to focus normally but then it just randomly loses focus, or you can never get it in focus correctly?


It just randomly loses the focus, I would say 2 to 3 times during a 40 minute episode.


----------



## ACE844

Brajesh said:


> Wonder if this is another marketing flub? Seems odd it would have better BT2020 coverage w/what seem to be lesser h/w specs.


Seems odd they would falsify technical hardware specs like this?


----------



## m0j0

kklwin said:


> It just randomly loses the focus, I would say 2 to 3 times during a 40 minute episode.


That sounds like a mechanical issue potentially. Perhaps try a factory reset as suggested and see if the problem reoccurs. If it does, I would request a replacement.


----------



## ProjectionHead

humax said:


> Yes, this seems like the international version. Only 2 GB Ram? Doesn't the Chinese version have 3 GB? The only difference is Android 11 and no Netflix support? Damn it, Fengmi!


Yes, they lowered the RAM and Storage and changed from FengOs to Android and will be charging more for International than T1 and the T1 is expected to start being regulated for export pricing so I would jump on it now if you want the lowest price if ordering from China to USA. They also claim 107% BT2020 but that was proven incorrect by testers on the T1.

Tracking shows my International version expected to arrive this week, so I'll be playing with it soon

From presentation this morning:


----------



## humax

ACE844 said:


> It also looks like they added additional BT2020 color space support as they are now advertising 107% coverage?



Yes, what is up with that? How can it be they have surpassed 89% coverage of the current version, unless they went completely wheel-free? Nothing suggests this has different hardware besides lower specked processor and 2 GB ram. I guess we will have to wait for Gregory again to measure actual color coverage. They also say Wi-Fi 6, does this exist in the Chinese version too?


----------



## xrayg1971

ProjectionHead said:


> Yes, they lowered the RAM and Storage and changed from FengOs to Android and will be charging more for International than T1 and the T1 is expected to start being regulated for export pricing so I would jump on it now if you want the lowest price if ordering from China to USA. They also claim 107% BT2020 but that was proven incorrect by testers on the T1.
> 
> Tracking shows my International version expected to arrive this week, so I'll be playing with it soon
> 
> From presentation this morning:
> View attachment 3268822


wait so we dont have 107 % bt2020 ? if so what is it .. your attachment did not open.. also @ humax i thought we dont have a wheel .. we have tri laser setup


----------



## humax

kklwin said:


> I am running into some issue with my T1 that the picture being blurred for a couple of seconds to minutes, similar to watching 3D without 3D glasses, and it fixed by itself.



Yes, this does look like the unit is trying to display a 3D signal. Unless there is a 3D setting in Roku you might have missed, I would report this to Banggood ASAP. How you tried with another source to see, if the same thing happens?


----------



## humax

xrayg1971 said:


> wait so we dont have 107 % bt2020 ? if so what is it .. your attachment did not open.. also @ humax i thought we dont have a wheel .. we have tri laser setup



Gregory measured actual color coverage of 89% of REC.2020 for the Chinese version. The T1 seems to have a wheel somewhere in the light engine that does not work like a classic color wheel and it is probably responsible for the lower color coverage compared to other tri-lasers.


P.S. The attachment link does not work for me either.


----------



## ACE844

T1 arrived this afternoon


----------



## ACE844

I had about an hour with it real quick before I had to head out. Some quick bullet points
1.) I bought from an ali seller recommended here WUPro
2.)I'm not sure if this is where the unit will stay or if it's going in the LR (WAF depending) as a result. I did a quick and mickey mouse setup out of the box.
3.) Screen is a cheap matte white spandex outdoor screen put up and the installation is wavy and uneven. that will change later. So please don't judge focus too harshly it's wavy like the Atlantic at the moment.
4.) I stacked it on a box and end table just to get an image out of it and a quick look
5.)Batteries= They were too cheap to throw a coupla AAA bats in the box.
6.) Menus were in Chinese and as this is my first CN market UST it took a bit of quick trial and error and OCR google translate to get the language to english
7.) Firmware is 1.4.1938 with no update available and latest version
8.)Connection chain is SHIELD PRO-->Kinivio 550BN (till I can get a VROOM here)-->T1
9.) HDMI cables are all 2.1
10.) Shield config custom res 4096/60-422-12 bit, bt2020-DV-HDR, AI upscaling on
11.) Not sure if it's the shield processing or the spandex or both but the image in the flat areas of the screen were crip, clear and sharp, and bright
12.) T1 settings were @m0j0(thank you for sharing and your hard work) latest settings of
Brightness Mode: View Mode
Custom settings:
Brightness: 49
Contrast: 54
Saturation: 45
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 52
Color Custom:
Red: 903
Green: 952
Blue: 872

13.) After I remembered to change the HDMI on-screen menu setting to HDMI2.1 I got Jack Ryan on prime to show both atmos and DV Flags.
14.)There's lots of tweaking and refining of the installation and refining to be done but overall I'm like a kid a Christmas....
15.) Don't judge the pictures too harshly they are whatever my note 9 spit out in default.
Out of time .....More to follow later


----------



## lattiboy

humax said:


> Gregory measured actual color coverage of 89% of REC.2020 for the Chinese version. The T1 seems to have a wheel somewhere in the light engine that does not work like a classic color wheel and it is probably responsible for the lower color coverage compared to other tri-lasers.
> 
> 
> P.S. The attachment link does not work for me either.


It is really interesting because I’ve owned 2 PJs that do well over 100% of BT2020 and I still prefer the color on the T1, and this is after doing legit side-by-side with the Bomaker Polaris / L9.

Whatever weirdness Fengmi does with their DLP system doesn’t register well with measurements, but does register in person. Maybe it’s volume over gamut or the contrast, but even on stuff designed to show gamut (YT test videos and animation) I still preferred the T1 by a lot.


----------



## m0j0

ACE844 said:


> I had about an hour with it real quick before I had to head out. Some quick bullet points
> 1.) I bought from an ali seller recommended here WUPro
> 2.)I'm not sure if this is where the unit will stay or if it's going in the LR (WAF depending) as a result. I did a quick and mickey mouse setup out of the box.
> 3.) Screen is a cheap matte white spandex outdoor screen put up and the installation is wavy and uneven. that will change later. So please don't judge focus too harshly it's wavy like the Atlantic at the moment.
> 4.) I stacked it on a box and end table just to get an image out of it and a quick look
> 5.)Batteries= They were too cheap to throw a coupla AAA bats in the box.
> 6.) Menus were in Chinese and as this is my first CN market UST it took a bit of quick trial and error and OCR google translate to get the language to english
> 7.) Firmware is 1.4.1938 with no update available and latest version
> 8.)Connection chain is SHIELD PRO-->Kinivio 550BN (till I can get a VROOM here)-->T1
> 9.) HDMI cables are all 2.1
> 10.) Shield config custom res 4096/60-422-12 bit, bt2020-DV-HDR, AI upscaling on
> 11.) Not sure if it's the shield processing or the spandex or both but the image in the flat areas of the screen were crip, clear and sharp, and bright
> 12.) T1 settings were @m0j0(thank you for sharing and your hard work) latest settings of
> Brightness Mode: View Mode
> Custom settings:
> Brightness: 49
> Contrast: 54
> Saturation: 45
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 52
> Color Custom:
> Red: 903
> Green: 952
> Blue: 872
> 
> 13.) After I remembered to change the HDMI on-screen menu setting to HDMI2.1 I got Jack Ryan on prime to show both atmos and DV Flags.
> 14.)There's lots of tweaking and refining of the installation and refining to be done but overall I'm like a kid a Christmas....
> 15.) Don't judge the pictures too harshly they are whatever my note 9 spit out in default.
> Out of time .....More to follow later


Got some potential there man, congrats!


----------



## Jsolohd

ProjectionHead said:


> Yes, they lowered the RAM and Storage and changed from FengOs to Android and will be charging more for International than T1 and the T1 is expected to start being regulated for export pricing so I would jump on it now if you want the lowest price if ordering from China to USA. They also claim 107% BT2020 but that was proven incorrect by testers on the T1.
> 
> Tracking shows my International version expected to arrive this week, so I'll be playing with it soon
> 
> From presentation this morning:
> View attachment 3268822


@ProjectionHead you a real one, thank you


----------



## Brajesh

@ProjectionHead, really appreciate your transparency & honesty. Very rare with vendors having vested interest. Your attachment can't be viewed however (shows a "The requested page could not be found."). Whatever next gear I buy in the U.S., I'll be sure to do so from you.


----------



## Aztar35

xrayg1971 said:


> wait so we dont have 107 % bt2020 ? if so what is it .. your attachment did not open.. also @ humax i thought we dont have a wheel .. we have tri laser setup





humax said:


> Gregory measured actual color coverage of 89% of REC.2020 for the Chinese version. The T1 seems to have a wheel somewhere in the light engine that does not work like a classic color wheel and it is probably responsible for the lower color coverage compared to other tri-lasers.
> 
> P.S. The attachment link does not work for me either.





lattiboy said:


> It is really interesting because I’ve owned 2 PJs that do well over 100% of BT2020 and I still prefer the color on the T1, and this is after doing legit side-by-side with the Bomaker Polaris / L9.
> 
> Whatever weirdness Fengmi does with their DLP system doesn’t register well with measurements, but does register in person. Maybe it’s volume over gamut or the contrast, but even on stuff designed to show gamut (YT test videos and animation) I still preferred the T1 by a lot.


As of now, why is 89% to say 95% of BT2020 not good enough? Can someone point me to any specific content that is graded beyond BT2020 anyway?

The advantage of exceeding BT2020 for now only really tells me that whatever content offered in full P3 should be fully displayed since the projector exceeds P3. Exceeding BT2020 also offers future-proofing for when more and even wider color content is available.

The CIE XYZ color space covers all color information a person with average eyesight can see. Of that CIE (1931), BT/rec2020 covers about 75.8% of that space, DCI-P3 about 56.6%, and rec709 about 36%.

I'm aware of some content with some scenes graded beyond P3, but I'm not sure how far beyond it. If the content doesn't reach full BT2020, it should not matter so long as the T1's color range beyond P3 encompasses it.

Let's say you show LUT and perfectly calibrated to P3. If the content, for example, has only red extending beyond P3 but your display even at 95% of 2020 has some deficiency in green, then no issue. If green extends, even 89% of 2020 may exceed the grading of green beyond P3 if the content's green doesn't reach the cal'd color target in the BT2020 parameter anyway but enough to where the T1 displays green.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Brajesh said:


> @ProjectionHead, really appreciate your transparency & honesty. Very rare with vendors having vested interest. Your attachment can't be viewed however (shows a "The requested page could not be found."). Whatever next gear I buy in the U.S., I'll be sure to do so from you.


Updated post with screenshot from my phone


----------



## Jsolohd

I think I’m ready to pull the trigger on a T1! Thanks everyone for sharing honest feedback and pushing the projector to the limits to see what’s it’s capable of. Also thanks to Brian for sharing info on the international version, would def consider throwing business his way in the future.

I’ll be on paternity leave soon and could use a new toy to play with. Where do everyone recommended to purchase it from? Lookin for a few places to compare to as I’m looking for a good deal as baby is on the way

Thanks for those who already answered my dm’s


----------



## Meu Tech Mundo

kklwin said:


> Olá!
> View attachment 3268783
> 
> View attachment 3268782
> 
> Recebi o T1 há dois dias da Banggood e tenho testado em 120" Vividstorm com Roku ultra.
> Estou tendo algum problema com o meu T1 que a imagem fica desfocada por alguns segundos a minutos, semelhante a assistir 3D sem óculos 3D, e foi corrigido por si só.
> Isso acontece em todas as fontes que tentei e até no menu de configuração.
> Tirei algumas fotos das falhas que mencionei.
> 
> Alguém tem alguma idéia do que está errado com o meu T1 e como corrigir potencialmente?
> [/CITAR ]
> 
> Disable hdmi 2.1 on the menu


----------



## Meu Tech Mundo

Jsolohd said:


> Acho que estou pronto para puxar o gatilho em um T1! Obrigado a todos por compartilharem comentários honestos e levarem o projetor ao limite para ver do que ele é capaz. Também obrigado a Brian por compartilhar informações sobre a versão internacional, def consideraria lançar negócios em seu caminho no futuro.
> 
> Estarei de licença paternidade em breve e poderia usar um brinquedo novo para brincar. Onde todos recomendam comprá-lo? Procurando alguns lugares para comparar, pois estou procurando um bom negócio, pois o bebê está a caminho
> 
> Obrigado a quem já respondeu minha dm's
> [/CITAR ]
> 
> Disable Hdmi 2.1


----------



## jeff9n

ACE844 said:


> Seems odd they would falsify technical hardware specs like this?


This is a common marketing stunt in the tech & electronic sector.


----------



## Malaveae

Aztar35 said:


> As of now, why is 89% to say 95% of BT2020 not good enough? Can someone point me to any specific content that is graded beyond BT2020 anyway?
> 
> The advantage of exceeding BT2020 for now only really tells me that whatever content offered in full P3 should be fully displayed since the projector exceeds P3. Exceeding BT2020 also offers future-proofing for when more and even wider color content is available.
> 
> The CIE XYZ color space covers all color information a person with average eyesight can see. Of that CIE (1931), BT/rec2020 covers about 75.8% of that space, DCI-P3 about 56.6%, and rec709 about 36%.
> 
> I'm aware of some content with some scenes graded beyond P3, but I'm not sure how far beyond it. If the content doesn't reach full BT2020, it should not matter so long as the T1's color range beyond P3 encompasses it.
> 
> Let's say you show LUT and perfectly calibrated to P3. If the content, for example, has only red extending beyond P3 but your display even at 95% of 2020 has some deficiency in green, then no issue. If green extends, even 89% of 2020 may exceed the grading of green beyond P3 if the content's green doesn't reach the cal'd color target in the BT2020 parameter anyway but enough to where the T1 displays green.


Yes, I posted 2 month ago an article talking about the (BT2020 List) of material.
I saw "Encanto" (a color burster movie), and yesterday I just saw "The Batman" (a real contrast dark movie). 
Both films demonstrates the capability of the T1 to handle both worlds.

For those who want to see if they a have a projector with good contrast watch "The Batman" (Rated: for projector 3000:1 or more contrast).


----------



## lattiboy

Malaveae said:


> Yes, I posted 2 month ago an article talking about the (BT2020 List) of material.
> I saw "Encanto" (a color burster movie), and yesterday I just saw "The Batman" (a real contrast dark movie).
> Both films demonstrates the capability of the T1 to handle both worlds.
> 
> For those who want to see if they a have a projector with good contrast watch "The Batman" (Rated: for projector 3000:1 or more contrast).


Cannot recommend Inside Out in DolbyVision on the T1 enough. There’s a a part about 41 minutes in that is brain melting.


----------



## kklwin

Downloading FengOS 2.0.0.2289 that appears right now in the setup screen.
Will report you back if there are significant changes!


----------



## jorgemurillo2012

kklwin said:


> Downloading FengOS 2.0.0.2289 that appears right now in the setup screen.
> Will report you back if there are significant changes!


It's this for for the T1?


----------



## Pauljiang

kklwin said:


> Downloading FengOS 2.0.0.2289 that appears right now in the setup screen.
> Will report you back if there are significant changes!


Thank you for the good update news. That is so inspiring.


----------



## Sunbox2408

Yay it's here  - long awaited ver 2.0.0.2289 released (feeling excited)


----------



## Sunbox2408

jorgemurillo2012 said:


> It's this for for the T1?


Yes and this time for everyone it seems.


----------



## jorgemurillo2012

Sunbox2408 said:


> Yes and this time for everyone it seems.


Let me us know if They improved the DV. Can't wait to go home now ..currently at work lol


----------



## gostocks

jorgemurillo2012 said:


> Let me us know if They improved the DV. Can't wait to go home now ..currently at work lol


Witcher season 2 epi 3.. Opening scene the faces have red hues which seems to be gone now.

However Atmos still doesn't work for me on Google Chromecast. I think it has to do with DD+.


----------



## nigel749

Hi all, been reading through the posts and many reviews for the T1. Now they seem to have fixed a lot of the negative issues experienced, the T1 looks like a solid investment. Before I take the plunge and buy, can some one answer a couple of questions:

1. With the latest firmware fixes, does this mean that you do not need to keep adjusting settings for different media sources? This seemed to be a big issue on the review at Passion Home Cinema

2. If I buy now, will there be a global firmware edition released that can be applied to older T1 models? If so does this mean that the OS will change to Android 11 as outlined in a recent upgrade article?

Any advice greatly appreciated.


----------



## ACE844

I got the update as well. I spent until the wee hours of the morning looking at content and I also got the severe red push on DV content. I hope the new firmware we're all downloading now fixes this issue. Also ATMOS seems to be transiently detected? Has anyone else run into this?

Is there a sleep timer on these hidden in the gui? I fell asleep with it on..


----------



## m0j0

lattiboy said:


> It is really odd, but I find using most all your settings with max DV at 400 to be perfect. Nails the color clipping test and looks great. When I get to 4000 and 10000 things look blown out for me. I increase contrast to 55 and brightness to 50 and saturation to 50. Give it a shot if you’re bored!
> 
> View attachment 3268561


I did some more testing and find that I really, really like both the 400 and 4000 nit setups. I will post more about it later, but yeah, these both seem like can't miss awesome! However, on the Elven Queen shot, I do seem to be able to pick up just a slight uptick in extra detail with the 4,000 nit settings, so I will probably continue to roll with that one for now. Also, I found that the 10,000 nit setting was crushing white, at least on the Roku Ultra, so probably going to stay with 4,000 as my primary and maybe bounce back to 400 if I run into any issues.


----------



## jakechoy

FengOS 2.0.0.2289 is a new boot-up solution for the desktop. 

Optimize code implementation to improve desktop fluency. 
Optimize desktop loading logic to speed up desktop loading speed. 
Added mode switching, including cinema mode, business mode, scene mode, and music mode, which can be entered through the "shutdown interface" or "launcher". 
The player updated the iQIYI SDK to fix the problem that some paid videos on iQIYI could not be played. 
Tencent Cloud Game START delay optimization, delay optimization to 8 milliseconds. 
Optimized the video and audio synchronization function, and the audio and video synchronization experience is better. Optimized the MEMC motion compensation effect to improve the smoothness of video playback. 
Screencasting Optimize the connection speed of Miracast screencasting. 
System settings and services have optimized the picture quality performance, and the picture performance is better. 
Optimized the sound quality performance, the sound performance is better. 
Optimize audio implementation, reduce CPU usage, and improve system operation fluency.


----------



## m0j0

Ok, so where I'm at with my recent testing is at 4,000 nits for the DV tab on the Vrroom. I just get the most detail it seems with this setting, though the 400 nits settings are also very good and comparable if you can't push up to 4,000 nits. I mean, look at the freckles on the Elven Queen's face. There's just a ridiculous amount of detail there! And a lot of these other pictures are showing improved details as well.

These are the settings I am using currently (with the Vrroom and Roku Ultra):
Brightness Mode: View Mode
Custom:
Brightness: 49
Contrast: 48
Saturation: 48
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 52
Color Custom (same settings as previous)


----------



## ngcoolman

I confirmed that the latest FengOS 2.0.0.2289 has fixed the red tint problem in DV. And the pictures look much sharper too. 

On the other hand, I seem to encounter with HDR gaming with my Xbox Series X with the latest firmware. When I played Guardian of the Galaxy today with the latest firmware, the color suddenly became muted after gaming for 1 to 2 mins. The symptom is similar to viewing hdr content with an non-hdr display device. This never happened to me with the old firmware. I am figuring out whether it only happens to the guardian of galaxy or also on other games.


----------



## Sunbox2408

Hdmi handshake issue still seems to exist, my xbox series x was defaulting to hd however when I switched hdmi it detected 4k. Same with shield tv it was 1080p 60hz as default and then switching hdmi bought 4k 60 Hz option to select.

Agree that the pics are much sharper and the red speckle issue is gone.


----------



## m0j0

ngcoolman said:


> I confirmed that the latest FengOS 2.0.0.2289 has fixed the red tint problem in DV. And the pictures look much sharper too.
> 
> On the other hand, I seem to encounter with HDR gaming with my Xbox Series X with the latest firmware. When I played Guardian of the Galaxy today with the latest firmware, the color suddenly became muted after gaming for 1 to 2 mins. The symptom is similar to viewing hdr content with an non-hdr display device. This never happened to me with the old firmware. I am figuring out whether it only happens to the guardian of galaxy or also on other games.


Try switching hdmi over to 2.0 then back to 2.1. Could be that issue that's switching up the color space on you.


----------



## oryschak

ACE844 said:


> I got the update as well. I spent until the wee hours of the morning looking at content and I also got the severe red push on DV content. I hope the new firmware we're all downloading now fixes this issue. Also ATMOS seems to be transiently detected? Has anyone else run into this?
> 
> Is there a sleep timer on these hidden in the gui? I fell asleep with it on..


The ATMOS detection might be due to the HDMI handshake issue. When you're watching your chosen source, open up the options with the Fengmi remote and switch from HDMI 2.1 to 2.0, then back to 2.1 and restart your show.


----------



## rooterha

m0j0 said:


> Ok, so where I'm at with my recent testing is at 4,000 nits for the DV tab on the Vrroom. I just get the most detail it seems with this setting, though the 400 nits settings are also very good and comparable if you can't push up to 4,000 nits. I mean, look at the freckles on the Elven Queen's face. There's just a ridiculous amount of detail there! And a lot of these other pictures are showing improved details as well.
> 
> These are the settings I am using currently (with the Vrroom and Roku Ultra):
> Brightness Mode: View Mode
> Custom:
> Brightness: 49
> Contrast: 48
> Saturation: 48
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 52
> Color Custom (same settings as previous)


It's interesting but I tested at 400 and 4000 nits on an AppleTV 4k and found a lot of content unwatchable with those settings no matter what tweaks I did to the brightness/contrast. Wonder if the Roku makes a big difference here. Guess I could test with the Z9X.


----------



## m0j0

rooterha said:


> It's interesting but I tested at 400 and 4000 nits on an AppleTV 4k and found a lot of content unwatchable with those settings no matter what tweaks I did to the brightness/contrast. Wonder if the Roku makes a big difference here. Guess I could test with the Z9X.


I did find that the Roku can handle higher levels vs. the Apple TV before blowing out white. Same for the Z9X and the Sony X800M2.


----------



## rooterha

m0j0 said:


> I did find that the Roku can handle higher levels vs. the Apple TV before blowing out white. Same for the Z9X and the Sony X800M2.


Cool - I'll give it a shot. I swapped the ATV back in because I think functionality wise it's a better device but if I can get better PQ with the Roku then it's a no brainer.


----------



## m0j0

Here's a few other pictures from testing last night. I don't recall where I was at with settings on these, but they were all before the final settings, so these are just work in progress testing type pics.


----------



## lattiboy

Whoops, didn’t realize somebody already posted release notes. Can’t delete my comment, so I’ll just post this picture from Planet Earth 2, episode 3 which you should all watch


----------



## Grazed

rooterha said:


> It's interesting but I tested at 400 and 4000 nits on an AppleTV 4k and found a lot of content unwatchable with those settings no matter what tweaks I did to the brightness/contrast. Wonder if the Roku makes a big difference here. Guess I could test with the Z9X.


I use the ATV 4K and I found both 200 and 1000 max nits work fine but your contrast/brightness levels will be different for both. For the 200 nit settings I already have a post with those settings but for 1000 nits I use these settings:

Brightness: 53
Contrast: 50
Saturation: 50
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 50
Dynamic Contrast: Off

Color Temp:
Red: 1000
Green: 1024
Blue: 944

Also I confirm settings with this YT calibration playlist. I can see all the highlight and shadow detail in every pattern test. Also watching real content like The Meg which I know to have really bright highlights there is nothing that is blown out.


----------



## rooterha

Grazed said:


> I use the ATV 4K and I found both 200 and 1000 max nits work fine but your contrast/brightness levels will be different for both. For the 200 nit settings I already have a post with those settings but for 1000 nits I use these settings:
> 
> Brightness: 53
> Contrast: 50
> Saturation: 50
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 50
> Dynamic Contrast: Off
> 
> Color Temp:
> Red: 1000
> Green: 1024
> Blue: 944
> 
> Also I confirm settings with this YT calibration playlist. I can see all the highlight and shadow detail in every pattern test. Also watching real content like The Meg which I know to have really bright highlights there is nothing that is blown out.


Didn't work for me. Try Disney+ content, a lot of movies are way too dark with settings similar to yours above. Almost everything looked worse than lower nits for me. Will play with the other non ATV devices more.


----------



## m0j0

rooterha said:


> Didn't work for me. Try Disney+ content, a lot of movies are way too dark with settings similar to yours above. Almost everything looked worse than lower nits for me. Will play with the other non ATV devices more.


@Grazed uses an Elite Screens DarkUST screen, so his settings likely won't carry over for you.


----------



## lattiboy

Hey everybody, I gotta think we should have a *separate thread for the HDFury content.* Maybe a dedicated UST HDFury thread? At this point it’s most of the content in here and is a lot to go through. I’m part of it too obviously, so not calling anybody out! 

We should really be talking about the big update and any bugs or improvements that come out of it. Fengmi has shown themselves to be quite responsive and I’m sure they check this thread for feedback.


----------



## Tanizhq

To the people arguing about 89% vs 107% of the BT2020 colour space and why the T1 advertises as 107%, I got an answer.

The T1 does only produce 89% of the colours in the BT2020 space BUT the overall area covered by the gamut is 107% compared to the area of BT2020.
Basically just means that it is producing more colours than BT2020, but not necessarily the same ones.


----------



## xrayg1971

m0j0 said:


> Try switching hdmi over to 2.0 then back to 2.1. Could be that issue that's switching up the color space on you.


that worked for me but after reboot it messed up again ....


----------



## Grazed

rooterha said:


> Didn't work for me. Try Disney+ content, a lot of movies are way too dark with settings similar to yours above. Almost everything looked worse than lower nits for me. Will play with the other non ATV devices more.


Which movie or show in particular? I can test it out directly just to confirm what you are seeing. I did watch Moon Knight yesterday and Book of Boba Fett and I did not see any issues. By chance is your dynamic contrast on? That was an issue I had when it was on for me and why I turn it off.


----------



## m0j0

xrayg1971 said:


> that worked for me but after reboot it messed up again ....


Yeah, it's an issue for sure.


----------



## m0j0

lattiboy said:


> Hey everybody, I gotta think we should have a *separate thread for the HDFury content.* Maybe a dedicated UST HDFury thread? At this point it’s most of the content in here and is a lot to go through. I’m part of it too obviously, so not calling anybody out!
> 
> We should really be talking about the big update and any bugs or improvements that come out of it. Fengmi has shown themselves to be quite responsive and I’m sure they check this thread for feedback.


That's an interesting idea, but not sure I like the idea of forking out to another thread.


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> Here's a few other pictures from testing last night. I don't recall where I was at with settings on these, but they were all before the final settings, so these are just work in progress testing type pics.


Maybe it's just my eyes or the content, but you black floor looks lower with these pics.


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> Maybe it's just my eyes or the content, but you black floor looks lower with these pics.


Probably so. I was testing back and forth with 48 and 49 for both brightness and contrast, so I could have taken them with the lower settings.


----------



## jakechoy

lattiboy said:


> Whoops, didn’t realize somebody already posted release notes.


I guess I left out this new feature... Dolby Atoms! (giving u atomic audio!)


----------



## Grazed

lattiboy said:


> We should really be talking about the big update and any bugs or improvements that come out of it. Fengmi has shown themselves to be quite responsive and I’m sure they check this thread for feedback.


Good point, I do plan on playing around with new firmware today and seeing if I find anything weird. It sucks the HDMI handshake issue doesn't seem to be fixed yet since that has been the only annoyance for me personally thus far. I want to see if it is possible to keep your settings the same throughout all different content now (SDR/HDR10/DV) instead of having to change like you did before if you didn't run an HDFury.


----------



## m0j0

jakechoy said:


> I guess I left out this new feature... Dolby Atoms! (giving u atomic audio!)
> 
> View attachment 3269213


Man, Dolby Atoms! Sweet!


----------



## rooterha

jakechoy said:


> I guess I left out this new feature... Dolby Atoms! (giving u atomic audio!)
> 
> View attachment 3269213


Wow, we're even getting unreleased Dolby features. Very cool!


----------



## zoomx2

It was there before, what’s new about atmos?


----------



## m0j0

zoomx2 said:


> It was there before, what’s new about atmos?


We're just having some fun with their mispelling mistake...


----------



## zoomx2

Lol got it. It is a Chinese company can’t blame them. But they made an amazing T1 we all enjoy it.


----------



## lattiboy

Display image setting with view brightness is incredibly close to calibrated for me. It’s a little blue, so if that bothers you here are my settings for the new firmware (this is without any processors like HD Fury or the like)

Brightness 49
Contrast 52
Saturation 51
Sharpness 22
Tone 51
R952
G995
B923
Dynamic Contrast off


----------



## rooterha

lattiboy said:


> Display image setting with view brightness is incredibly close to calibrated for me. It’s a little blue, so if that bothers you here are my settings for the new firmware (this is without any processors like HD Fury or the like)
> 
> Brightness 49
> Contrast 52
> Saturation 51
> Sharpness 22
> Tone 51
> R952
> G995
> B923
> Dynamic Contrast off


So you're not using DV? Or you can do custom with DV?


----------



## mirkmito

jakechoy said:


> I guess I left out this new feature... Dolby Atoms! (giving u atomic audio!)
> 
> View attachment 3269213


There has always been


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> Man, Dolby Atoms! Sweet!


Don't we have to have some sort of security clearance for this?


----------



## donw

xrayg1971 said:


> that worked for me but after reboot it messed up again ....


Have you tried Auto HDMI mode? Someone else said they were keeping their T1 on Auto.


----------



## jorgemurillo2012

Grazed said:


> Good point, I do plan on playing around with new firmware today and seeing if I find anything weird. It sucks the HDMI handshake issue doesn't seem to be fixed yet since that has been the only annoyance for me personally thus far. I want to see if it is possible to keep your settings the same throughout all different content now (SDR/HDR10/DV) instead of having to change like you did before if you didn't run an HDFury.


What's HDMI handshake what's that?


----------



## m0j0

Here's where I'm at today, with the latest firmware and with the HDFury Vrroom + Roku Ultra. I find that I have to do some adjustments when it's daytime with a good amount of ambient light coming into the room (my screen is an XYScreen PET Crystal).

HDFury Vrroom settings:


















Daytime setting on the T1 for HD material (still testing this one as it's pretty good but maybe just a bit hot with the 4,000 nit setting)
Brightness Mode: View Mode
Custom:
Brightness: 48
Contrast: 44
Saturation: 48
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 52
Color Custom:
Red: 903
Green: 952
Blue: 872 

Daytime setting on the T1 for DV material
Brightness Mode: View Mode
Custom:
Brightness: 59
Contrast: 57
Saturation: 48
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 52
Color Custom:
Red: 903
Green: 952
Blue: 872


Night time setting:
These are the settings I am using currently (with the Vrroom and Roku Ultra):
Brightness Mode: View Mode
Custom:
Brightness: 49
Contrast: 48
Saturation: 48
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 52
Color Custom:
Red: 903
Green: 952
Blue: 872


----------



## lattiboy

rooterha said:


> So you're not using DV? Or you can do custom with DV?


Just normal settings, no DV always on or HDFury device. For a standard user who just got the update these are the settings I would use.


----------



## xrayg1971

jakechoy said:


> I guess I left out this new feature... Dolby Atoms! (giving u atomic audio!)
> 
> View attachment 3269213


but that only works with the integrated sound bar right ?


----------



## m0j0

Retested focus after the latest update, and going all the way left (holding down the left direction for about 10-12 seonds), then three clicks to the right still results in the best focus for me.


----------



## xrayg1971

donw said:


> Have you tried Auto HDMI mode? Someone else said they were keeping their T1 on Auto.


yea auto works fine


----------



## ACE844

xrayg1971 said:


> yea auto works fine


I tried HDMI to auto on the new firmware and it dropped DV and Atmos and resolutions using the shield, as soon as I clicked 2.1 it all came back. Are you guys doing a factory reset after these firmware updates and reconfiguring everything?


----------



## m0j0

ACE844 said:


> I tried HDMI to auto on the new firmware and it dropped DV and Atmos and resolutions using the shield, as soon as I clicked 2.1 it all came back. Are you guys doing a factory reset after these firmware updates and reconfiguring everything?


No, we aren't doing any factory resets. I don't use auto myself and select 2.1 manually. Occasionally, I have to switch to 2.0 and then back to 2.1, but it's only occasional.


----------



## zaselim

Hey guys, Formovie was suppose to send me the latest firmware update today, they did send the updated but it was an older version 2.0.0.2289 (mine was 2.0.0.2079).
So my question is, do they send the update version wise (like every version released) or did they send me the older version by mistake. Because it didnt fix the focus problem for me.
My seller told me that he checked one of his stoked T1s with the latest firmware 2.0.0.2542 and it totally fixed the focus on all 4 corners.


----------



## m0j0

zaselim said:


> Hey guys, Formovie was suppose to send me the latest firmware update today, they did send the updated but it was an older version 2.0.0.2289 (mine was 2.0.0.2079).
> So my question is, do they send the update version wise (like every version released) or did they send me the older version by mistake. Because it didnt fix the focus problem for me.
> My seller told me that he checked one of his stoked T1s with the latest firmware 2.0.0.2542 and it totally fixed the focus on all 4 corners.


2289 is the one that everyone just got. Not sure what's going on with 2542. Is that for the T1?


----------



## m0j0

m0j0 said:


> 2289 is the one that everyone just got. Not sure what's going on with 2542. Is that for the T1?


Actually, I'm thinking 2542 is for the C2 and not the T1.


----------



## ACE844

m0j0 said:


> Actually, I'm thinking 2542 is for the C2 and not the T1.


For me I'm still only getting Dolby audio instead of ATMOS on Prime and elsehwere and it looks like I still have a red push in DV content. I'll check again tonight in blackout conditions


----------



## zaselim

m0j0 said:


> Actually, I'm thinking 2542 is for the C2 and not the T1.


Right, I remember one time you told about your os version being 2444, isnt 2289 seem older in number than 2444. And didnt gregory mentioned about his version being 2.0.0.2534.


----------



## m0j0

zaselim said:


> Right, I remember one time you told about your os version being 2444, isnt 2289 seem older in number than 2444. And didnt gregory mentioned about his version being 2.0.0.2534.


It might have been 2224 instead of 2444.


----------



## zaselim

m0j0 said:


> It might have been 2224 instead of 2444.


Ah, i think it could be.
The top left corner is not like its showing double/after image (focus text and the box). Its just slight less clear than the rest of the corners.
And in content i don't notice is because when watching content alot of us dont pay that much attention to the corners, specially the top ones.
I only notice is when i am browsing stuff on my system on my most left bookmark on the browser. Text(which very small in size) is readable though just slightly less clear like i mentioned above.
But irritating part is that i dont know if its the software side of issue or the hardware, my fear is that I don't want it to get worse over time cause it might if its the hardware problem.
May be i am reading too much into it.


----------



## ACE844

Today I flattened out the screen and rearranged to get closer to the 120in size. The right side needs some word as it's still abit FUBAR.
I changed the shield custom res settings to 2160/60p, YUV422, 12 bit rec 2020, DV&HDR10 ready.
Put on the Red Sox on NESN in 1080 SDR upscaled and it's looking good with @m0j0's custom settings for view mode.
I didn't make any changes to the images and they are whatevermy Samsung thrrew out in default. Everything looks balanced and natural in person including skin tones.
I have motion processing on the T1 off but AI enhanced on on the shield. I've not noticed any speckle or RBEso far on this unit


----------



## m0j0

ACE844 said:


> Today I flattened out the screen and rearranged to get closer to the 120in size. The right side needs some word as it's still abit FUBAR.
> I changed the shield custom res settings to 2160/60p, YUV422, 12 bit rec 2020, DV&HDR10 ready.
> Put on the Red Sox on NESN in 1080 SDR upscaled and it's looking good with @m0j0's custom settings for view mode.
> I didn't make any changes to the images and they are whatevermy Samsung throughout in default. Everything looks balanced and natural in person including skin tones.
> I have motion processing on the T1 off but AI enhanced on on the shield. I've not noticed any speckle or RBEso far on this unit


Looks pretty good! Are you planning to use a different screen? I can’t recall.


----------



## ACE844

m0j0 said:


> Looks pretty good! Are you planning to use a different screen? I can’t recall.


I am negotiations with the wife are in progress as to which type whether its a floor rising or drop down, fixed etc... I've had my eye on the Spectra Vantage the @ProjectionHead has said good things about. I had samples of T-prism from before when I had the LSP9T for a short period but it had alot of speckling on it and I never wound up getting a screen for that as that unit was defective/returned.


----------



## ngcoolman

m0j0 said:


> Try switching hdmi over to 2.0 then back to 2.1. Could be that issue that's switching up the color space on you.


Thank you for the suggestion but this seems to be a new problem I am facing. The switching problem existed in older firmware too, normally, when I started my xbox, I will goto XSX setting screen to check whether it is outputing 4k. If not, the problem will be fixed by switching the hdmi to 2.0 and back to 2.1 just like you suggested. 

The new problem I faced is that the color suddenly washed out in-game for the Guardian of the Galaxy with the latest firmware. When I jump back to the home screen, the color is back to normal for the home screen but the game will continue to look washed out until I restart the game. To make it worse, problem will show up again 1 or 2 min into game play. This makes the game unplayable with HDR enabled. Using my XSX to view netflix and disney+ don't have the same problem. Of course a lot of content is in Dolby Vision, so I haven't tested much on HDR but non-DV content yet. I remember some members also using XSX, just want to see whether they are seeing similar problem as I did.


----------



## m0j0

ACE844 said:


> I am negotiations with the wife are in progress as to which type whether its a floor rising or drop down, fixed etc... I've had my eye on the Spectra Vantage the @ProjectionHead has said good things about. I had samples of T-prism from before when I had the LSP9T for a short period but it had alot of speckling on it and I never wound up getting a screen for that as that unit was defective/returned.


Negotiations with the wife can be tricky. Typically, it’s a tete for tete, and you have to give them something they want. My wife made me agree to some landscaping before she ok’d my
last purchase…


----------



## m0j0

ngcoolman said:


> Thank you for the suggestion but this seems to be a new problem I am facing. The switching problem existed in older firmware too, normally, when I started my xbox, I will goto XSX setting screen to check whether it is outputing 4k. If not, the problem will be fixed by switching the hdmi to 2.0 and back to 2.1 just like you suggested.
> 
> The new problem I faced is that the color suddenly washed out in-game for the Guardian of the Galaxy with the latest firmware. When I jump back to the home screen, the color is back to normal for the home screen but the game will continue to look washed out until I restart the game. To make it worse, problem will show up again 1 or 2 min into game play. This makes the game unplayable with HDR enabled. Using my XSX to view netflix and disney+ don't have the same problem. Of course a lot of content is in Dolby Vision, so I haven't tested much on HDR but non-DV content yet. I remember some members also using XSX, just want to see whether they are seeing similar problem as I did.


Is the Xbox auto detecting/changing resolution and color space? Can you force always on hdr or dv or something like that? I assume you aren’t using an HDFury device.


----------



## ngcoolman

m0j0 said:


> Is the Xbox auto detecting/changing resolution and color space? Can you force always on hdr or dv or something like that? I assume you aren’t using an HDFury device.


I don't have HDFury. I am not sure what exactly is the problem, when the game started to wash out in color, i check xbox setting and it is still outputing 4k with both HDR and DV still supported. The old switching problem happens only when I switch off the xbox and turn on again and i only need to do the 2.0 and 2.1 switching to get it fixed and i am good for the whole duration until i switch off the xbox. 

It is obvious the new firmware handle HDR and DV much better than the old firmware. If I have to guess, it could be the problem specific to the game which i can live with. Actually, the guardian of the galaxy game support DV too, and the color wash up problem is gone if i game in DV. But the problem is that DV doesn't have game mode and the latency is really unacceptable in DV mode.


----------



## m0j0

ngcoolman said:


> I don't have HDFury. I am not sure what exactly is the problem, when the game started to wash out in color, i check xbox setting and it is still outputing 4k with both HDR and DV still supported. The old switching problem happens only when I switch off the xbox and turn on again and i only need to do the 2.0 and 2.1 switching to get it fixed and i am good for the whole duration until i switch off the xbox.
> 
> It is obvious the new firmware handle HDR and DV much better than the old firmware. If I have to guess, it could be the problem specific to the game which i can live with. Actually, the guardian of the galaxy game support DV too, and the color wash up problem is gone if i game in DV. But the problem is that DV doesn't have game mode and the latency is really unacceptable in DV mode.


The T1 supports ALLM (and I think VRR too). The Vrroom can turn this on. I think that means you can game in whatever mode you want and get low latency (or maybe it just means it will switch to game mode for you automatically). I turned it on and play the switch in custom mode with no issues, but I’m not a big gamer and I don’t measure latency or anything like that, so not sure how well it works or really what it’s doing. It just seems to work and I didn’t have to do anything except enable it on the Vrroom.


----------



## JereyWolf

The new firmware definitely made the HDR10 and Dolby Vision tone mapping better...but in the few pieces of content I tested from Netflix, I still think it looks better in SDR.

Just try it for yourself. Select a non-HDR display mode from your source and watch a scene in both ways, with and without HDR.

Both of these photos are in SDR with the custom preset and view brightness.


----------



## Jsolohd

@ACE844 which screen are you using now?


----------



## lattiboy

Well, the new firmware is basically identical to what I’ve been running since Feb, so kind of a disappointment there. Still an enormous step up and I feel a very necessary step. I would argue this is what it should have shipped with and the problems on 1.4 should have stopped them from shipping it originally.

-DV still has some color issues, but vastly improved in all brightness modes. Still room for improvement.

-HDR handling is now just about as good as any device I’ve ever used. Maybe you’ll want to pump brightness/contrast in certain movies, but it isn’t necessary and looks very decent using pretty standard settings.

-HDMI handshake issue remains unresolved. They are aware of the issue and cause, and claim it will be addressed in the next update per an email with them from months ago.

-No 2nd custom setting or HDR mode, which isn’t great; but the processing is so vastly improved it’s much less “necessary” then it was pre-update

-“Active Contrast” will still occasionally turn itself on and mess up the picture. This can be avoided by using display mode image setting.

-Overall, for a firmware update in the first 4 months of release this is very promising. Vastly superior to the firmware practices of giants like LG or Hisense, who often never do meaningful updates even on known issues….. _angry former HU810P owner noises intensify_

- I would say it’s officially worth it to grab at least an HD Fury Arcana ($250) or Vertex 2 ($500) and a device that can force DV on at all timeslike the Roku Ultra ($70), or the new AppleTV 4 K 2nd Gen ($180), or tbe Ziddo Z9X ($230).

Using these devices together truly unlocks the potential of the T1. I tried removing the Arcana from things and immediately put it back in. Even if it was only for DV content it is such a huge improvement it’s shocking. I’ll post comparison pics when I have time, but in this color clipping chart I went from an average of about 69% to an average of 76%.










Same for contrast and brightness calibration screens. Beyond that, colors just P-O-P like crazy and are incredible rich. If you spent $2400 on a PJ you owe it to yourself to spend 10% more to unlock the potential.


----------



## zaselim

lattiboy said:


> Well, the new firmware is basically identical to what I’ve been running since Feb, so kind of a disappointment there. Still an enormous step up and I feel a very necessary step. I would argue this is what it should have shipped with and the problems on 1.4 should have stopped them from shipping it originally.
> 
> -DV still has some color issues, but vastly improved in all brightness modes. Still room for improvement.
> 
> -HDR handling is now just about as good as any device I’ve ever used. Maybe you’ll want to pump brightness/contrast in certain movies, but it isn’t necessary and looks very decent using pretty standard settings.
> 
> -HDMI handshake issue remains unresolved. They are aware of the issue and cause, and claim it will be addressed in the next update per an email with them from months ago.
> 
> -No 2nd custom setting or HDR mode, which isn’t great; but the processing is so vastly improved it’s much less “necessary” then it was pre-update
> 
> -“Active Contrast” will still occasionally turn itself on and mess up the picture. This can be avoided by using display mode image setting.
> 
> -Overall, for a firmware update in the first 4 months of release this is very promising. Vastly superior to the firmware practices of giants like LG or Hisense, who often never do meaningful updates even on known issues….. _angry former HU810P owner noises intensify_
> 
> - I would say it’s officially worth it to grab at least an HD Fury Arcana ($250) or Vertex 2 ($500) and a device that can force DV on at all timeslike the Roku Ultra ($70), or the new AppleTV 4 K 2nd Gen ($180), or tbe Ziddo Z9X ($230).
> 
> Using these devices together truly unlocks the potential of the T1. I tried removing the Arcana from things and immediately put it back in. Even if it was only for DV content it is such a huge improvement it’s shocking. I’ll post comparison pics when I have time, but in this color clipping chart I went from an average of about 69% to an average of 76%.
> 
> View attachment 3269501
> 
> 
> Same for contrast and brightness calibration screens. Beyond that, colors just P-O-P like crazy and are incredible rich. If you spent $2400 on a PJ you owe it to yourself to spend 10% more to unlock the potential.


Does vertex 2 also improves the detail?, not that i think T1's not good in details but any improvement in this or any aspect is a plus.
And yeah i also didnt see any difference between my last 2079 update and the new 2289. I really thought that they will unlock the custom rgb settings in Office Mode like the other modes. I mailed them about it today, i hope they will work on it as well for the next update.
They most impressed i got with T1 with 1080 content, the detail really pop and sometimess it better than 4k hdr. And with PC gaming, i was playing Resident Evil 8 (Village today) at 4k and it looked really amazing even better than my Samsung TV because every thing is super sized and the colors really pop. The amazing part is colors don't look like they are over saturated and the effect colors are the ones who actually pop like magic effects, flame sparkles. Like At the end of Dr. Strange when he goes to bargin with Dormamu everything in the void (dark space) really popped and there were many different colors in that scene. 
I dont use HDR option in games(PC), instead i use reshade and make my own hdr preset with some other features like bloom and ambient light etc. Sure it costs some frame rates but worth it.


----------



## lattiboy

zaselim said:


> Does vertex 2 also improves the detail?, not that i think T1's not good in details but any improvement in this or any aspect is a plus.
> And yeah i also didnt see any difference between my last 2079 update and the new 2289. I really thought that they will unlock the custom rgb settings in Office Mode like the other modes. I mailed them about it today, i hope they will work on it as well for the next update.
> They most impressed i got with T1 with 1080 content, the detail really pop and sometimess it better than 4k hdr. And with PC gaming, i was playing Resident Evil 8 (Village today) at 4k and it looked really amazing even better than my Samsung TV because every thing is super sized and the colors really pop. The amazing part is colors don't look like they are over saturated and the effect colors are the ones who actually pop like magic effects, flame sparkles. Like At the end of Dr. Strange when he goes to bargin with Dormamu everything in the void (dark space) really popped and there were many different colors in that scene.
> I dont use HDR option in games(PC), instead i use reshade and make my own hdr preset with some other features like bloom and ambient light etc. Sure it costs some frame rates but worth it.


Here’s a quick sample from the Dolby Vision Inside Out on Disney+, both in view mode brightness. This is a worst case scenario, but the easiest way to show what the HD Fury + Roku can do.

No HD Fury:










HD Fury Arcana LLDV 200nits/P3 setting and custom T1 settings:










This is (to my knowledge) one of the toughest color scenes from any movie ever made, so don’t take this as a knock on the T1. Most movies look good without the Arcana and the difference is not as extreme.


----------



## driege

I noticed that motion compensation is working with Dolby Vision on the new firmware. Not sure I'll actually use it though


----------



## USTmalt

I eagerly awaited Gregory’s review of the T1 several months ago, and was then convinced not to buy it because of the comparison to models like xiaomi’s most recent that don’t require frequent adjustment to find the best viewing settings for whatever is currently being watched.

Is the consensus that the current firmware makes the T1 plug-n-play, or does it still require fiddling to enjoy the benefits of this impressive hardware?

if so, is there a particular vendor that the Avs community recommends for purchasing the T1?


----------



## jeff9n

The issue with the red tint on skin tone is not T1 specific. My Xiaomi 1S 4K UST also has the problem. This projector does not support or certified for Dolby Vision (DV). But if you use the 2021 Roku Streaming Stick or Roku Ultra, the display can be forced to DV. For the attached photo, the topmost image is DV mode. Middle image is HDR mode. Bottom image is standard 4K mode.

The standard 4K shows color accuracy. The gentleman robe at the back is red. Notice his robe in HDR and DV modes are not red. The robe color for the gentleman at the front row also differs.

The skin tone in the standard 4K mode seems natural. In HDR, it has a little red tint. Under DV, it has even more red tint.


----------



## donw

Well, I updated FengOS to 2.0.2289 today and I lost HDR10 image. I have sound but no image. This is the way it was working previously when I was using one of the HDMI ports besides the eARC, when I moved it over to eARC port, I suddenly had picture on HDR10 sources. Now, I do not. Dolby Vision sources still work. Oddly, when I set my Ugoos player to force LLDV, it does not work on HDR10 sources, either. Before, when I was using a non eARC port, forcing LLDV on HDR10 sources worked. I thought it might be related to the 2.0 vs. 2.1 setting, but I tried switching back and forth, and it never worked. Anyone have any ideas?


----------



## driege

With the new firmware, the sound keeps cutting out for me and the only way to get it back is to restart the projector. Strangely, I still get click sounds when navigating the menu on the shield, but no sound from the content until I restart.


----------



## wesleyrbk

USTmalt said:


> I eagerly awaited Gregory’s review of the T1 several months ago, and was then convinced not to buy it because of the comparison to models like xiaomi’s most recent that don’t require frequent adjustment to find the best viewing settings for whatever is currently being watched.
> 
> Is the consensus that the current firmware makes the T1 plug-n-play, or does it still require fiddling to enjoy the benefits of this impressive hardware?
> 
> if so, is there a particular vendor that the Avs community recommends for purchasing the T1?


It's is pretty much plug and play right now. The display mode will suffice for the majority of the users. Can't give any recommendations for vendors in the US that sell it sorry.


----------



## Sunbox2408

lattiboy said:


> Well, the new firmware is basically identical to what I’ve been running since Feb, so kind of a disappointment there. Still an enormous step up and I feel a very necessary step. I would argue this is what it should have shipped with and the problems on 1.4 should have stopped them from shipping it originally.
> 
> -DV still has some color issues, but vastly improved in all brightness modes. Still room for improvement.
> 
> -HDR handling is now just about as good as any device I’ve ever used. Maybe you’ll want to pump brightness/contrast in certain movies, but it isn’t necessary and looks very decent using pretty standard settings.
> 
> -HDMI handshake issue remains unresolved. They are aware of the issue and cause, and claim it will be addressed in the next update per an email with them from months ago.
> 
> -No 2nd custom setting or HDR mode, which isn’t great; but the processing is so vastly improved it’s much less “necessary” then it was pre-update
> 
> -“Active Contrast” will still occasionally turn itself on and mess up the picture. This can be avoided by using display mode image setting.
> 
> -Overall, for a firmware update in the first 4 months of release this is very promising. Vastly superior to the firmware practices of giants like LG or Hisense, who often never do meaningful updates even on known issues….. _angry former HU810P owner noises intensify_
> 
> - I would say it’s officially worth it to grab at least an HD Fury Arcana ($250) or Vertex 2 ($500) and a device that can force DV on at all timeslike the Roku Ultra ($70), or the new AppleTV 4 K 2nd Gen ($180), or tbe Ziddo Z9X ($230).
> 
> Using these devices together truly unlocks the potential of the T1. I tried removing the Arcana from things and immediately put it back in. Even if it was only for DV content it is such a huge improvement it’s shocking. I’ll post comparison pics when I have time, but in this color clipping chart I went from an average of about 69% to an average of 76%.
> 
> View attachment 3269501
> 
> 
> Same for contrast and brightness calibration screens. Beyond that, colors just P-O-P like crazy and are incredible rich. If you spent $2400 on a PJ you owe it to yourself to spend 10% more to unlock the potential.


That's a great summary of the issues - thanks. Curious on how the setup works. Do roku ultra, arcana or vertex 2 go into T1 or an AV Receiver such as denon, Yamaha or marantz?


----------



## humax

zaselim said:


> Does vertex 2 also improves the detail?, not that i think T1's not good in details but any improvement in this or any aspect is a plus.



It likely reveals detail lost due to poor/mediocre tone-mapping. However, even the most expensive HD Fury device does not seem to implement any kind of image processing, apart from upscaling and tone-mapping, which your projector does anyway, although certainly not as well. The Vroom product is interesting with its 8K compatibility, but pricey for a video buffer. You would need something with advanced sharpening and edge enhancement skills like the new 4K Darbee, if they ever bother to push it out on the market, to get 4K+ detail contouring and increase the 3D-like effect. This is a 1080p native resolution DMD after all and it could use some help with 4K signals. I have the first generation Darbee working with my current projector and plain 1080 image looks blurry and soft to me now, whenever I turn it off.

P.S. It would be interesting to see whether the T1 manages to hold its own against a native 4K JVC. Is anybody that has both up to the challenge?


----------



## JereyWolf

lattiboy said:


> Here’s a quick sample from the Dolby Vision Inside Out on Disney+, both in view mode brightness. This is a worst case scenario, but the easiest way to show what the HD Fury + Roku can do.
> 
> No HD Fury:
> 
> View attachment 3269542
> 
> 
> HD Fury Arcana LLDV 200nits/P3 setting and custom T1 settings:
> 
> View attachment 3269543
> 
> 
> This is (to my knowledge) one of the toughest color scenes from any movie ever made, so don’t take this as a knock on the T1. Most movies look good without the Arcana and the difference is not as extreme.


Are you able to test how that scene looks in SDR? 
I'm interested to see the difference between a LLDV signal and SDR.


----------



## xrayg1971

got this last night from NBL


















2022 Formovie T1 Global Version Introduction Product Show Stream 2022 - Alibaba.com


Consumer Electronics suppliers and exhibitors live-stream at Alibaba.com Online Trade Show now.




www.alibaba.com


----------



## m0j0

So, not being one to leave well enough alone, I was running through the Spears and Munsil test videos and found that the red colors seemed a bit off. I'm thinking that maybe the updated firmware somehow affected things. So, I went in and did some testing and came up with a new custom color setting. Here's my new settings if you want to test it out (this is with an HDFury Vrroom inline and everything forced to DV/LLDV):

Brightness Mode: View Mode
Custom:
Brightness: 49
Contrast: 49
Saturation: 45
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 52
Color Custom:
Red: 923
Green: 889
Blue: 804


----------



## ACE844

Jsolohd said:


> @ACE844 which screen are you using now?


I'm using the same one as before. It's an outdoor spandex stretch screen in matte white which I picked up on amazon ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FB6VW1M?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details )because they were able to get it to me next day. This way I was able to have something to project onto and which could be moved around quickly while we debated which room the T1 would go in. Once that's ironed out and we figure out the type motorized vs fxed, etc...we'll pick up something better and this screen will go outside for movie night use in our outdoor entertaining area.


----------



## m0j0

Here's a few pictures after the custom color change last night (these are all with brightness and contrast at 49 and saturation at 45)


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

m0j0 said:


> Here's a few pictures after the custom color change last night (these are all with brightness and contrast at 49 and saturation at 45)


These look great! Any further changes to the HDR and DV settings on the HDFury or are you still using the settings from post 4593:









Formovie Fengmi T1


It was there before, what’s new about atmos?




www.avsforum.com


----------



## m0j0

Scott Rosenberg said:


> These look great! Any further changes to the HDR and DV settings on the HDFury or are you still using the settings from post 4593:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Formovie Fengmi T1
> 
> 
> It was there before, what’s new about atmos?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


I'm running 4000 nits on the DV tab with these settings (so yes, that post with the settings is still what I'm using).


----------



## jorgemurillo2012

How do I set up to go to HDMI when I turn the projector? Much appreciated


----------



## m0j0

jorgemurillo2012 said:


> How do I set up to go to HDMI when I turn the projector? Much appreciated


General>System>Auto Play at boot:



https://www.avsforum.com/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=1920,fit=scale-down/https://www.avsforum.com/attachments/img_6401-jpg.3262786/


----------



## zoomx2

lattiboy said:


> Here’s a quick sample from the Dolby Vision Inside Out on Disney+, both in view mode brightness. This is a worst case scenario, but the easiest way to show what the HD Fury + Roku can do.
> 
> No HD Fury:
> 
> View attachment 3269542
> 
> 
> HD Fury Arcana LLDV 200nits/P3 setting and custom T1 settings:
> 
> View attachment 3269543
> 
> 
> This is (to my knowledge) one of the toughest color scenes from any movie ever made, so don’t take this as a knock on the T1. Most movies look good without the Arcana and the difference is not as extreme.


1st picture looks over saturated, if you lower the Saturation does it bring me the detail?


----------



## lattiboy

zoomx2 said:


> 1st picture looks over saturated, if you lower the Saturation does it bring me the detail?


No, without the HD Fury you have no control over image settings, just brightness on DV content.


----------



## zoomx2

lattiboy said:


> No, without the HD Fury you have no control over image settings, just brightness on DV content.


Oh sorry don’t know that’s in DV


----------



## zoomx2

Please send those 2 pictures to [email protected] so they aware DV bright is over saturated.


----------



## m0j0

And here's a few more pics from last night


----------



## gen_x

Pauljiang said:


> Thank you for the good update news. That is so inspiring.
> 
> View attachment 3269064


Confirmed just downloaded it. Anyone have a listing of improvements with this firmware?


zaselim said:


> Ah, i think it could be.
> The top left corner is not like its showing double/after image (focus text and the box). Its just slight less clear than the rest of the corners.
> And in content i don't notice is because when watching content alot of us dont pay that much attention to the corners, specially the top ones.
> I only notice is when i am browsing stuff on my system on my most left bookmark on the browser. Text(which very small in size) is readable though just slightly less clear like i mentioned above.
> But irritating part is that i dont know if its the software side of issue or the hardware, my fear is that I don't want it to get worse over time cause it might if its the hardware problem.
> May be i am reading too much into it.


I have the exact same issue and trying to resolve it. I tried various scenarios and regardless in on wall, screen position the issue is still there. Much more visible and issue the larger the screen gets. I dont know source of issue but suspect its either hardware or internal.


----------



## xrayg1971

m0j0 said:


> General>System>Auto Play at boot:
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=1920,fit=scale-down/https://www.avsforum.com/attachments/img_6401-jpg.3262786/


after the firmware update now its not turning on when input is detected fyi


----------



## Ricoflashback

Anyone have experience with the VAVA ALR screen? I'll be looking for a temporary screen while we look for a new house.









VAVA ALR Screen Pro


The VAVA Ambient Light Rejecting (ALR) projector screen is designed for Ultra Short Throw projectors. This ALR Screen blocks ambient light any time of day!




www.vava.com


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> Anyone have experience with the VAVA ALR screen? I'll be looking for a temporary screen while we look for a new house.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VAVA ALR Screen Pro
> 
> 
> The VAVA Ambient Light Rejecting (ALR) projector screen is designed for Ultra Short Throw projectors. This ALR Screen blocks ambient light any time of day!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.vava.com


I don’t, but I think it might be pet grid and not pet crystal. If that is the case, I would not recommend.


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> I don’t, but I think it might be pet grid and not pet crystal. If that is the case, I would not recommend.


Thanks. Agree - - pet grid a no go. The mounting system is pretty slick, though. Easier adjustments.


----------



## jakechoy

xrayg1971 said:


> after the firmware update now its not turning on when input is detected fyi


This is the menu you want to set it for auto on/off. Auto Boot and CEC control must be set to On.

Tested and works w/NVIDIA or T1 remote for on/off. Powers up/down the LG soundbar too.


----------



## donw

Does anyone know if we can revert to an earlier version of FengOS? I want to test if the update is the reason for my apparent bandwidth issues or if I am having a hardware problem.


----------



## donw

I know the eArc port is the only 2.1, but does anyone know the level of the other two hdmi ports?


----------



## m0j0

donw said:


> Does anyone know if we can revert to an earlier version of FengOS? I want to test if the update is the reason for my apparent bandwidth issues or if I am having a hardware problem.


I don't, but I would suspect if you did a factory reset, that would bump you back down to the original version. Not sure though.


----------



## xrayg1971

Ricoflashback said:


> Anyone have experience with the VAVA ALR screen? I'll be looking for a temporary screen while we look for a new house.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VAVA ALR Screen Pro
> 
> 
> The VAVA Ambient Light Rejecting (ALR) projector screen is designed for Ultra Short Throw projectors. This ALR Screen blocks ambient light any time of day!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.vava.com


i have the vava 100 inch alr and i love it .. for the price nothing beats it ... and my lr has a pretty good amount of ambient light during the day ...i dont close the blinds and i have a great picture ..


----------



## xrayg1971

xrayg1971 said:


> i have the vava 100 inch alr and i love it .. for the price nothing beats it ... and my lr has a pretty good amount of ambient light during the day ...i dont close the blinds and i have a great picture ..


you can even get last years model for 400 bucks on walmart.com , the only diff is the frame on that one has 1 less tension adjustment ..i just doubled all my springs and the tension is perfect .. no sags and looks great


----------



## xrayg1971

xrayg1971 said:


> got this last night from NBL
> View attachment 3269679
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2022 Formovie T1 Global Version Introduction Product Show Stream 2022 - Alibaba.com
> 
> 
> Consumer Electronics suppliers and exhibitors live-stream at Alibaba.com Online Trade Show now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.alibaba.com


in case anyone missed this from this morning ... this is going live tomorrow


----------



## m0j0

So, my custom colors looked pretty good for night mode viewing of DV material. However, during the day, it doesn't look great, as the 4000 nit DV setting on the Vrroom is causing some white crush for HD shows. So, I dropped the DV nits down to 700 and switched to Display Mode with brightness still set to View Mode, and it looks really good for kids content, which is really all my kids watch during the day.

Edit: This looked good in the evening too with the lights on. I just switched brightness mode from view mode to night mode and everything still looked nicely colored/saturated and still bright enough to be enjoyable. So, this seems like a good setup for the kids everyday watching.


----------



## xrayg1971

m0j0 said:


> So, my custom colors looked pretty good for night mode viewing of DV material. However, during the day, it doesn't look great, as the 4000 nit DV setting on the Vrroom is causing some white crush for HD shows. So, I dropped the DV nits down to 700 and switched to Display Mode with brightness still set to View Mode, and it looks really good for kids content, which is really all my kids watch during the day.


do you have anythign that is best of both worlds yet ? sucks that we can have multiple custom settings ... day, night , hdr, lldv etc


----------



## Meu Tech Mundo

T1 GLOBAL VERSION WILL BE RELEASED TODAY!


----------



## m0j0

xrayg1971 said:


> do you have anythign that is best of both worlds yet ? sucks that we can have multiple custom settings ... day, night , hdr, lldv etc


No, not really. Maybe one day though.


----------



## gunio

Is this unit now after the firmware update good enough to get ride of those ugly tints without tinkering too much with the hdmi processors?
Or to get “proper” DV picture and best contrast some tricks are still needed?


----------



## zaselim

gen_x said:


> Confirmed just downloaded it. Anyone have a listing of improvements with this firmware?
> 
> I have the exact same issue and trying to resolve it. I tried various scenarios and regardless in on wall, screen position the issue is still there. Much more visible and issue the larger the screen gets. I dont know source of issue but suspect its either hardware or internal.


I am at around 120" of screen and for me top left corner (around the edge area, not the entire corner, when i open settings the "screen ratio option" text is clear same as other settings' text) is almost clear like compared to the rest but not as same as the rest of the corners.
Can you check if your custom rgb settings work(changes color when moving sliders) on office mode on hdmi display.


----------



## Sunbox2408

m0j0 said:


> General>System>Auto Play at boot:
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=1920,fit=scale-down/https://www.avsforum.com/attachments/img_6401-jpg.3262786/


Does this work for you @m0j0 ? asking as I have this selected however it never finds the shield tv connected to this hdmi and times out after 15 secs and goes back to the original Chinese home page. Then I have to manually go to inputs to select the same hdmi which is selected at auto boot and it works fine this time. This bit is more annoying me than the hdmi handshake issue tbh.


----------



## Sunbox2408

jakechoy said:


> This is the menu you want to set it for auto on/off. Auto Boot and CEC control must be set to On.
> 
> Tested and works w/NVIDIA or T1 remote for on/off. Powers up/down the LG soundbar too.
> 
> View attachment 3269808


Thanks @jakechoy I do have both these options set to on and when t1 starts it does try to connect to the selected auto boot hdmi where my shield is connected however times out after 15 secs of looking for it even though shield is on. It then goes to the default Chinese menu and I have to manually select input. I do remember I got ProjecTivy pre installed from NBL which isn't triggering anymore - wonder if that is stopping from the default auto boot to work normally.
Can I confirm as soon as your T1 starts it looks for the nvidia hdmi at autoboot and opens it straight away? without going to the default Chinese home page?


----------



## ACE844

Sunbox2408 said:


> Thanks @jakechoy I do have both these options set to on and when t1 starts it does try to connect to the selected auto boot hdmi where my shield is connected however times out after 15 secs of looking for it even though shield is on. It then goes to the default Chinese menu and I have to manually select input. I do remember I got ProjecTivy pre installed from NBL which isn't triggering anymore - wonder if that is stopping from the default auto boot to work normally.
> Can I confirm as soon as your T1 starts it looks for the nvidia hdmi at autoboot and opens it straight away? without going to the default Chinese home page?


I can get the t1 to power on and shield to power on with the shield remote. However the t1 doesn't detect the active hdmi connection as you described. However, the Shield also has a cec/ known bug. 

The work around I found was to click the remote ( i use circle or Netflix button, its arbitrary though) and this usually causes the t1 to detect the connection and start to display the shield content/screen during the 15 sec search. YMMV
HTH


----------



## xrayg1971

Sunbox2408 said:


> Does this work for you @m0j0 ? asking as I have this selected however it never finds the shield tv connected to this hdmi and times out after 15 secs and goes back to the original Chinese home page. Then I have to manually go to inputs to select the same hdmi which is selected at auto boot and it works fine this time. This bit is more annoying me than the hdmi handshake issue tbh.


so i turned my PJ off and then back on and it worked .. i then tried to turn it off for soem time and still worked .. i think I may just have to add a delay in my harmony programming to let the source get through the AV rec and to the PJ .. but still works just maybe will be flaky


----------



## donw

donw said:


> Well, I updated FengOS to 2.0.2289 today and I lost HDR10 image. I have sound but no image. This is the way it was working previously when I was using one of the HDMI ports besides the eARC, when I moved it over to eARC port, I suddenly had picture on HDR10 sources. Now, I do not. Dolby Vision sources still work. Oddly, when I set my Ugoos player to force LLDV, it does not work on HDR10 sources, either. Before, when I was using a non eARC port, forcing LLDV on HDR10 sources worked. I thought it might be related to the 2.0 vs. 2.1 setting, but I tried switching back and forth, and it never worked. Anyone have any ideas?


Solved: So relieved that it was my Ugoos player--not the T1! I had to remove power from the player; rebooting it did not fix.


----------



## m0j0

Sunbox2408 said:


> Does this work for you @m0j0 ? asking as I have this selected however it never finds the shield tv connected to this hdmi and times out after 15 secs and goes back to the original Chinese home page. Then I have to manually go to inputs to select the same hdmi which is selected at auto boot and it works fine this time. This bit is more annoying me than the hdmi handshake issue tbh.


I’m using a Logitech harmony and it powers on the Roku ultra, which is also connected to the Vrroom. With CEC turned on for the T1 and the Roku, and also the Vrroom, it does turn on the T1 and shows the Home Screen of the Roku.


----------



## m0j0

xrayg1971 said:


> so i turned my PJ off and then back on and it worked .. i then tried to turn it off for soem time and still worked .. i think I may just have to add a delay in my harmony programming to let the source get through the AV rec and to the PJ .. but still works just maybe will be flaky


Good point. I think I have a 10 second delay built in to mine (can't remember if its part of the startup or shutdown though).


----------



## JereyWolf

Here's the same scene shown on the T1 in SDR and in DV with the new firmware. The photos are not perfect, but they are close to what I see in person (the photos both have higher saturation than I see). Both were taken with identical camera settings. HDR/DV is just lacking brightness and leads to a dimmer picture. I'm sure some extra control over the luminance range via HDfury would help....but for now I think I'll just keep HDR disabled on the shield.


----------



## ProFragger

Guys - Especially people who recently made purchases in the US of the T1 and possibly a screen with it... Can you DM me with some recommendations on where and best practices when buying from Chinese vendors? I appreciate your help in advance! Thank you!


----------



## Sunbox2408

ACE844 said:


> I can get the t1 to power on and shield to power on with the shield remote. However the t1 doesn't detect the active hdmi connection as you described. However, the Shield also has a cec/ known bug.
> 
> The work around I found was to click the remote ( i use circle or Netflix button, its arbitrary though) and this usually causes the t1 to detect the connection and start to display the shield content/screen during the 15 sec search. YMMV
> HTH


Solved: Uninstalled Projectivy Tools app from the projector and now it goes to shield hdmi and brings it up almost instantly.

However, there are 2 other issues that have come to fore after this fix. Keen to know if anyone else is getting these.

1. After 10-20 secs a Chinese site "New TV" pop up comes and fills the screen over existing shield window (see pics below)

















2. I am now loosing sound randomly - is someone else is experiencing it as well. Keen to know if there is a fix or something we need to raise with fengmi as an issue of the new firmware release.

Cheers,


----------



## ProFragger

Anyone know if in the PET Crystal screen family if there is something called BSP and CBSP and what it means? 😊


----------



## Sunbox2408

driege said:


> With the new firmware, the sound keeps cutting out for me and the only way to get it back is to restart the projector. Strangely, I still get click sounds when navigating the menu on the shield, but no sound from the content until I restart.


@driege I am facing the same mate - have you had any luck resolving it?


----------



## zoomx2

This official firmware is worse than previous beta 2224 version. DV bright and dark mode doesn’t make any difference. HDMI ports loose sound randomly. Custom setting is not applied in 1st startup randomly. Anyone found the issues please report to [email protected]


----------



## esegan

Nobody tried to find information on how to enter the service menu and find the color settings, maybe there are more precise settings. Or find an opportunity to get into the settings of the android itself and there may be RGB settings for DV as well.
For example, I now have a Dangbei X3 3200 lumen laser projector. The manufacturer has an application through which there is access to the settings of the android itself, I changed the language from Chinese to English there and also in the android settings I found a complete set of precise gray scale settings for 2 and 11 points, as well as color space settings for all 6 colors and 6x3=18 adjustments, there are also general gamma settings, 3 modes and many more other settings.
If you get into the internal settings of Android T1, then perhaps there are also advanced fine-tuning settings.
I don’t understand why everyone is so passive and waiting for a new firmware, anyway, there won’t be more settings there, at best they will slightly correct the red tint in the DV.
тонкой настройки.


----------



## zoomx2

esegan said:


> Nobody tried to find information on how to enter the service menu and find the color settings, maybe there are more precise settings. Or find an opportunity to get into the settings of the android itself and there may be RGB settings for DV as well.
> For example, I now have a Dangbei X3 3200 lumen laser projector. The manufacturer has an application through which there is access to the settings of the android itself, I changed the language from Chinese to English there and also in the android settings I found a complete set of precise gray scale settings for 2 and 11 points, as well as color space settings for all 6 colors and 6x3=18 adjustments, there are also general gamma settings, 3 modes and many more other settings.
> If you get into the internal settings of Android T1, then perhaps there are also advanced fine-tuning settings.
> I don’t understand why everyone is so passive and waiting for a new firmware, anyway, there won’t be more settings there, at best they will slightly correct the red tint in the DV.
> тонкой настройки.
> View attachment 3270142
> View attachment 3270143
> View attachment 3270144
> View attachment 3270145
> View attachment 3270146
> View attachment 3270147
> View attachment 3270148
> View attachment 3270149
> View attachment 3270150
> View attachment 3270151


So why don’t you do it for us?


----------



## nigel749

Taken the plunge and purchased T1 from nothingbutlabel. Not sure how long shipping will take but now wait in eager anticipation. I also purchased an 84" (biggest I could fit on my viewing area) VIVIDSTORM floor up motorized screen direct from company. This will replace my Samsung 55" TV which is showing it's age, circa 2013. New setup will run through Nvidia Shield & Damson Audio surround sound system (ATMOS capable). Hope it all plays nicely together.


----------



## driege

Sunbox2408 said:


> @driege I am facing the same mate - have you had any luck resolving it?


Yes, I did a reset and it hasn't happened since (still on the new firmware). Be careful though, when you reset the menu will be in Chinese again. I would memorize which menu setting changes the language (or refer to this post for instructions on how to change it back).


----------



## driege

zoomx2 said:


> This official firmware is worse than previous beta 2224 version. DV bright and dark mode doesn’t make any difference. HDMI ports loose sound randomly. Custom setting is not applied in 1st startup randomly. Anyone found the issues please report to [email protected]


Doing a reset from the menu fixed the sound dropout issue I was having after the new firmware


----------



## Sunbox2408

driege said:


> Yes, I did a reset and it hasn't happened since (still on the new firmware). Be careful though, when you reset the menu will be in Chinese again. I would memorize which menu setting changes the language (or refer to this post for instructions on how to change it back).


Thanks mate I might give it a go and see. 
On a separate note do you see this pop up once you turn up your T1? Roughly after 15-20 secs? 

Just want to make sure it's not unique to my set.


----------



## driege

Sunbox2408 said:


> Thanks mate I might give it a go and see.
> On a separate note do you see this pop up once you turn up your T1? Roughly after 15-20 secs?
> 
> Just want to make sure it's not unique to my set.
> 
> View attachment 3270192


Not that I can remember, but I have it boot to an HDMI input


----------



## ngcoolman

Sunbox2408 said:


> Thanks mate I might give it a go and see.
> On a separate note do you see this pop up once you turn up your T1? Roughly after 15-20 secs?
> 
> Just want to make sure it's not unique to my set.
> 
> View attachment 3270192


From your description, you seem to setup the projector to boot up to a particular hdmi port but the projector cannot detect video signal from that particular hdmi port. In this case, the projector will count down for 15 seconds and then switch back to the default chinese app homescreen.


----------



## Sunbox2408

ngcoolman said:


> From your description, you seem to setup the projector to boot up to a particular hdmi port but the projector cannot detect video signal from that particular hdmi port. In this case, the projector will count down for 15 seconds and then switch back to the default chinese app homescreen.


Sorry for the confusion but now it is booting up to shield hdmi input based on auto boot (hdmi 3) after i uninstalled projectivy tools.

But still after 15 secs it opens up the New TV app in Chinese.


----------



## gen_x

zaselim said:


> I am at around 120" of screen and for me top left corner (around the edge area, not the entire corner, when i open settings the "screen ratio option" text is clear same as other settings' text) is almost clear like compared to the rest but not as same as the rest of the corners.
> Can you check if your custom rgb settings work(changes color when moving sliders) on office mode on hdmi display.


Changing the colors with the sliders makes absolutely no difference to the picture. What now? Does this work for others?

Image parameters-custom-color standard


----------



## nas19

Sunbox2408 said:


> Thanks mate I might give it a go and see.
> On a separate note do you see this pop up once you turn up your T1? Roughly after 15-20 secs?
> 
> Just want to make sure it's not unique to my set.
> 
> View attachment 3270192


If you figure out the package name of this app, you can just uninstall it using adb as follows:


> adb pm uninstall -k --user 0 <package name>


Refer to ProjecTivy tools XDA page for more info on how to use adb. @spocky12 had posted the following earlier but I'm not entirely sure if the app you see is the same or not:


spocky12 said:


> This will do the job :
> adb pm uninstall -k --user 0 cn.formovie.fengos.assist
> If you dont want to do this, you can try installing button mapper and add a hook on the mic/assistant button.


Also, it's better to leave the wifi disconnected in the projector if you're not using the inbuilt apps(which you shouldn't anyway) except when you're trying to update the firmware.


----------



## zaselim

gen_x said:


> Changing the colors with the sliders makes absolutely no difference to the picture. What now? Does this work for others?
> 
> Image parameters-custom-color standard


For me its only in Office mode the rgb sliders don't do anything when moved, the sliders work on all of the other modes (view, slient and night).
I dont know if anyone else check it or not since most of the owners are using view mode.
Now like I said earlier, i can't notice the left corner focus issue when watching anything i only notice in text (stills, like my desktop or when browsing internet) and only at the edge around the top left corner area and its still very easily readable and only slightly less focused then the rest.
I talked to formovie and they told me today that focus issue is a hardware issue as well as the red tint in the middle of the screen and they said this is first time they heard about rgb slider not doing anything even if its only in office mode.
They told me to get a replacement.
But they also told me that all 4 corner can't be equally focused but if focus is too out even if it is in one corner then it is a hardware issue and needs repairing or replacement according to your contract with the seller.
The seller is telling me I will have to pay for the shippment and taxes if i want replacement, now I don't know which taxes he is talking about since i paid for the projector once already and i dont need to pay them again which i confirmed from customs. If its just a shippment from my side than i am willing but if i have to pay for the return shippment then I don't think my issue is that big enough to pay around 500 for shipping (charges when i send from my end plus the shipping charges when they send back the replacement from their end) charges alone. And if he is asking for the taxes they will get when i send the projector there then it will add the extra cost as well. If i only have to pay for the shipping charges from my end which is around 240usd then i can do that if they will be sending me the replacement.


----------



## Ricoflashback

zaselim said:


> For me its only in Office mode the rgb sliders don't do anything when moved, the sliders work on all of the other modes (view, slient and night).
> I dont know if anyone else check it or not since most of the owners are using view mode.
> Now like I said earlier, i can't notice the left corner focus issue when watching anything i only notice in text (stills, like my desktop or when browsing internet) and only at the edge around the top left corner area and its still very easily readable and only slightly less focused then the rest.
> I talked to formovie and they told me today that focus issue is a hardware issue as well as the red tint in the middle of the screen and they said this is first time they heard about rgb slider not doing anything even if its only in office mode.
> They told me to get a replacement.
> But they also told me that all 4 corner can't be equally focused but if focus is too out even if it is in one corner then it is a hardware issue and needs repairing or replacement according to your contract with the seller.
> The seller is telling me I will have to pay for the shippment and taxes if i want replacement, now I don't know which taxes he is talking about since i paid for the projector once already and i dont need to pay them again which i confirmed from customs. If its just a shippment from my side than i am willing but if i have to pay for the return shippment then I don't think my issue is that big enough to pay around 500 for shipping (charges when i send from my end plus the shipping charges when they send back the replacement from their end) charges alone. And if he is asking for the taxes they will get when i send the projector there then it will add the extra cost as well. If i only have to pay for the shipping charges from my end which is around 240usd then i can do that if they will be sending me the replacement.


Sorry to hear about the issues you're having. Does it affect movie viewing as well as other content? I don't browse the internet with any of my TV's or projectors. It was a novelty eight years ago, or so, but I just as soon use my iPad. The real question I'd have is whether sending it back would truly fix the problem or is it an inherent problem with the Fengmi T1? If it doesn't affect content (sans PC or internet browsing,) I'd be hesitant to send it back unless it's too noticeable on regular viewing. I can see right now that this projector really needs the Vertex 2 as the "out of the box" experience isn't as optimal. With a lack of a CMS, the Vertex 2 is the best solution for scene by scene tone mapping. But I digress. I hope you find a solution that works for you.


----------



## gen_x

zaselim said:


> For me its only in Office mode the rgb sliders don't do anything when moved, the sliders work on all of the other modes (view, slient and night).
> I dont know if anyone else check it or not since most of the owners are using view mode.
> Now like I said earlier, i can't notice the left corner focus issue when watching anything i only notice in text (stills, like my desktop or when browsing internet) and only at the edge around the top left corner area and its still very easily readable and only slightly less focused then the rest.
> I talked to formovie and they told me today that focus issue is a hardware issue as well as the red tint in the middle of the screen and they said this is first time they heard about rgb slider not doing anything even if its only in office mode.
> They told me to get a replacement.
> But they also told me that all 4 corner can't be equally focused but if focus is too out even if it is in one corner then it is a hardware issue and needs repairing or replacement according to your contract with the seller.
> The seller is telling me I will have to pay for the shippment and taxes if i want replacement, now I don't know which taxes he is talking about since i paid for the projector once already and i dont need to pay them again which i confirmed from customs. If its just a shippment from my side than i am willing but if i have to pay for the return shippment then I don't think my issue is that big enough to pay around 500 for shipping (charges when i send from my end plus the shipping charges when they send back the replacement from their end) charges alone. And if he is asking for the taxes they will get when i send the projector there then it will add the extra cost as well. If i only have to pay for the shipping charges from my end which is around 240usd then i can do that if they will be sending me the replacement.


My focus issue starts mid screen on the left and gradually gets worse to the corner. When I watch sports etc the scores are mostly on top left so I see the issue under normal viewing. Man I want to open this thing up but do not want to void anything. Also just a note my htpc recognizes the projector as Mstar demo. Any clues as to why?


----------



## zoomx2

Sunbox2408 said:


> Sorry for the confusion but now it is booting up to shield hdmi input based on auto boot (hdmi 3) after i uninstalled projectivy tools.
> 
> But still after 15 secs it opens up the New TV app in Chinese.


If you are using eARC port, you won’t get video signal of course. It will default back to main screen.


----------



## spocky12

zoomx2 said:


> So why don’t you do it for us?


I already did, many options in there. Tweakers are gonna tweak .


----------



## ACE844

@Sunbox2408 I'm not experiencing the audio dropouts you describe so I cannot help you out with that part.


----------



## ACE844

spocky12 said:


> I already did, many options in there. Tweakers are gonna tweak .


how do we get access to the calibration and other settings described by @*esegan *is there something we can sideload and install?


----------



## zoomx2

spocky12 said:


> I already did, many options in there. Tweakers are gonna tweak .


I was waiting for your tools. It works for T1 now? 👍🏼


----------



## mirzank

Meu Tech Mundo said:


> T1 GLOBAL VERSION WILL BE RELEASED TODAY!


Cant find anything about this or where to buy price etc. any idea/anybody seen the details on pricing colours and where to buy? I saw the leaked specs a few days ago but nothing official.


----------



## eezrider

JereyWolf said:


> Here's the same scene shown on the T1 in SDR and in DV with the new firmware. The photos are not perfect, but they are close to what I see in person (the photos both have higher saturation than I see). Both were taken with identical camera settings. HDR/DV is just lacking brightness and leads to a dimmer picture. I'm sure some extra control over the luminance range via HDfury would help....but for now I think I'll just keep HDR disabled on the shield.
> 
> View attachment 3270077
> View attachment 3270078


Could you provide the show/episode/time for this scene, thanks?


----------



## eezrider

Ricoflashback said:


> Sorry to hear about the issues you're having. Does it affect movie viewing as well as other content? I don't browse the internet with any of my TV's or projectors. It was a novelty eight years ago, or so, but I just as soon use my iPad. The real question I'd have is whether sending it back would truly fix the problem or is it an inherent problem with the Fengmi T1? If it doesn't affect content (sans PC or internet browsing,) I'd be hesitant to send it back unless it's too noticeable on regular viewing. I can see right now that this projector really needs the Vertex 2 as the "out of the box" experience isn't as optimal. With a lack of a CMS, the Vertex 2 is the best solution for scene by scene tone mapping. But I digress. I hope you find a solution that works for you.


Focus is not an inherent problem with T1. After the 2.0 firmware update, focus is excellent across the screen (on my 120" Vividstorm) as several have reported. I don't use a Vertex (although I might try one) and the picture quality is now excellent on all the content I'm playing (new Roku with forced DV and with an Xbox One X). 

Do you have a T1 yet? You've made bold pronouncements about the T1 and screens but it's not clear you're talking from experience here. And the Vertex2 or the cheaper Acana don't do the tone mapping, it's done by a mix of T1 and player if LLDV is used. Thus Roku with LLDV is quite usable without an HDFury device. I'm not saying there may not be improvements to be had, but it's far from essential for a great image.


----------



## spocky12

spocky12 said:


> Not really surprising, it's always been like this.
> I don't think memc will be impacted as I believe it's managed by a dedicated chip (it was like this for the latest projectors based on amlogic, not sure for mediatek).


I can confirm the use of a specialized board for memc which is a Novatek NT72353.


----------



## Ricoflashback

eezrider said:


> Focus is not an inherent problem with T1. After the 2.0 firmware update, focus is excellent across the screen (on my 120" Vividstorm) as several have reported. I don't use a Vertex (although I might try one) and the picture quality is now excellent on all the content I'm playing (new Roku with forced DV and with an Xbox One X).
> 
> Do you have a T1 yet? You've made bold pronouncements about the T1 and screens but it's not clear you're talking from experience here. And the Vertex2 or the cheaper Acana don't do the tone mapping, it's done by a mix of T1 and player if LLDV is used. Thus Roku with LLDV is quite usable without an HDFury device. I'm not saying there may not be improvements to be had, but it's far from essential for a great image.


I'm counting on you to provide ALL the right advice on this projector and many other subjects. Carry-on.

P.S. - you're the first person I've put on "Ignore" in all my years on the AVS Forum. So no need to reply - I won't see it.


----------



## ted_b

spocky12 said:


> I already did, many options in there. Tweakers are gonna tweak .


? No offense, but unless one is a member of your inner circle this comment is rather vague and ambiguous, especially for folks who have, in only the past few months, found this thread and the T1. Life's too short for hunting for decoder rings. Thanks.


----------



## zaselim

Ricoflashback said:


> Sorry to hear about the issues you're having. Does it affect movie viewing as well as other content? I don't browse the internet with any of my TV's or projectors. It was a novelty eight years ago, or so, but I just as soon use my iPad. The real question I'd have is whether sending it back would truly fix the problem or is it an inherent problem with the Fengmi T1? If it doesn't affect content (sans PC or internet browsing,) I'd be hesitant to send it back unless it's too noticeable on regular viewing. I can see right now that this projector really needs the Vertex 2 as the "out of the box" experience isn't as optimal. With a lack of a CMS, the Vertex 2 is the best solution for scene by scene tone mapping. But I digress. I hope you find a solution that works for you.


That is why i am confused about send it back because it doesn't effect the viewing experience(movies, shows or games) apart from very light background (like the whole screen close to white color) scenes where i can notice sometimes that the centre has slight red tint on the very white snow or bright white building, more importantly skintones look fine(normal) even on hdr(dont have DV device yet) so that is a plus. Its more like i have a fear of the future lol, that what if it gets worse. If it remains the same then i can live with it as i am 90% happy/satisfied with projector. I also like the default colors of office mode but i think it will help a little if i decrease a red gain a little. 
About the focus, other than the focus screen i don't notice it on any of content i have watched so far. It is very very slight less focused than the other 3 corners, not blurry or no after image just less sharp then the other three. 
My friends are coming over tomorrow, i will ask them how they see it and what they think about it. So far my parents are the only ones i have shown tbe projector to and they couldn't tell the difference and thought I was out of my mind lol, when i showed them a couple of days ago when they were here at my house.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Look what just arrived…..


----------



## gen_x

zaselim said:


> That is why i am confused about send it back because it doesn't effect the viewing experience(movies, shows or games) apart from very light background (like the whole screen close to white color) scenes where i can notice sometimes that the centre has slight red tint on the very white snow or bright white building, more importantly skintones look fine(normal) even on hdr(dont have DV device yet) so that is a plus. Its more like i have a fear of the future lol, that what if it gets worse. If it remains the same then i can live with it as i am 90% happy/satisfied with projector. I also like the default colors of office mode but i think it will help a little if i decrease a red gain a little.
> About the focus, other than the focus screen i don't notice it on any of content i have watched so far. It is very very slight less focused than the other 3 corners, not blurry or no after image just less sharp then the other three.
> My friends are coming over tomorrow, i will ask them how they see it and what they think about it. So far my parents are the only ones i have shown tbe projector to and they couldn't tell the difference and thought I was out of my mind lol, when i showed them a couple of days ago when they were here at my house.


What size is your screen?


----------



## Joered101

ProjectionHead said:


> Look what just arrived…..
> View attachment 3270336


!!!

is it the international version you got there?


----------



## Brajesh

Has price been announced? Thought it was being released today.


----------



## nas19

eezrider said:


> Thus Roku with LLDV is quite usable without an HDFury device.


Wait, are you saying that Roku can do LLDV(player led DV) without a HDfury device? Never knew that was even possible. Or was it a typo and you meant just DV, in which case, it's the display led DV?


----------



## zoomx2

ProjectionHead said:


> Look what just arrived…..
> View attachment 3270336
> 
> View attachment 3270344


Please post side by side pics for both units with lastest firmware to see any difference. Thank you!


----------



## m0j0

ProjectionHead said:


> Look what just arrived…..
> View attachment 3270336
> 
> View attachment 3270344


So, do we know the retail price now?


----------



## jakechoy

can someone help look at 6:12 of Yakamoz S-245 Episode 1(Netflix) DV vs HDR with the latest firmware?

I am getting excessive red on DV for most of the episode but the red sub is really red and so is his sweater stripes:










HDR seems ok: (ignore the blue tint..doesn't show on the screen)


----------



## ProjectionHead

Brajesh said:


> Has price been announced? Thought it was being released today.


Not sure if I can share that yet, will update once I get the approval.


----------



## m0j0

I spent some more time last night focused on dialing in custom colors with the Vrroom set to 700 nits on the DV tab. I liked that setting yesterday for the kids shows, setting it to view mode brightness and display mode. I got a good custom color setting that works well for night viewing and yet is very similar to the display mode setting we use at daytime. It stands up well across a lot of the content I check so I think it's going to be good. This could potentially be a mostly set it and forget it type setup, with the caveat being that you have to set it to display mode in the daytime and switch over to custom in the evening.

Here's the settings:

DV tab set to 700 nits on the Vrroom:

Daytime setting on the T1
Brightness Mode: View Mode
Image Parameters
Display Mode

Night time setting on the T1:
Brightness Mode: View Mode
Image Parameters
Custom:
Brightness: 49
Contrast: 49
Saturation: 50
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 52
Color Custom:
Red: 980
Green: 956
Blue: 867

Tested with Roku Ultra and Zidoo Z9X


----------



## eezrider

nas19 said:


> Wait, are you saying that Roku can do LLDV(player led DV) without a HDfury device? Never knew that was even possible. Or was it a typo and you meant just DV, in which case, it's the display led DV?


Yes. You can force HDR in the Roku Ultra and it sends all content as LLDV, whether SDR, HDR, or DV-mastered.

My understanding is that LLDV is HDR10 inside a DV wrapper. The T1 detects the player is sending DV and switches into its DV mode, which restricts the options to configure the display - BUT still with great results. As there is no scene-by-scene metadata to guide the T1 tone mapping, it just uses static metadata - of course if the source was DV-mastered, the Roku has done the heavy-lifting by processing the scene-based DV metadata. I understand Dolby have written some smart code for use by LLDV players that improves the tone mapping for non-DV content, which is a big part of the interest in using the HDFury devices.

What HDFury devices do is hack the EDID metadata exchanged between player and display to convince the player the display supports DV, and to convince the display that the content being sent is HDR10. This causes the display to process the content as static HDR10. For the T1, the benefit is that this enables the full set of display modes, color management, MEMC, etc. The static HDR10 at this point benefits from the better tone mapping, resulting from the DV-metadata if it was a DV-mastered source, or from the tone-mapping smarts in the Roku code. The EDID also contains metadata that describes the brightness and color ranges supported by the display. This can also be tweaked to influence the tone-mapping. Tweaking the display max nits seems to be impactful, for example. 

Regarding which device to use, it's not clear to me that there is any advantage other than usability in spending more on the Vertex2 or Vroom rather than getting the Arcana (would love to hear if this is not the case). Once you have the settings dialed in you will likely never change them. 

The following statement is included in the Arcana feature list on the HDFury website highlighting this scenario.
*Allow DV content playback from LLDV capable source on any HDR10 display for improved picture quality*


----------



## humax

ProjectionHead said:


> Look what just arrived…..



Any extra picture menu or settings in comparison to the Chinese version?


----------



## ProjectionHead

humax said:


> Any extra picture menu or settings in comparison to the Chinese version?


Haven't even had a chance to open the box yet. May not get around to it until early next week but will update in here once I do.

edit: I just cracked it open to play around and share some quick pics with y'all.
I do see some CA on the focus screen and am having a real hard time dialing it all in. Will let @Dave Harper and his magic eyes take that over for me next week while he tunes this bad boy in for me to really evaluate.

edit again: had to take down my pics until told otherwise


----------



## t333

guys
1) is it safe to update to latest firmware now? heard some issues with sound etc

2)has anyone have any experience with "fengmi 100 inch screen from banggood vs" vava 100 inch alr screen? which one will be more closer and good alternative to XY PET crystal?


----------



## m0j0

t333 said:


> guys
> 1) is it safe to update to latest firmware now? heard some issues with sound etc
> 
> 2)has anyone have any experience with "fengmi 100 inch screen from banggood vs" vava 100 inch alr screen? which one will be more closer and good alternative to XY PET crystal?


I would recommend the xyscreen pet crystal. They might cost a little more but their frames are built well and easy to put together and I received mine within 5 days.


----------



## ProjectionHead

t333 said:


> guys
> 1) is it safe to update to latest firmware now? heard some issues with sound etc


I just booted up after firmware update and don't recognize a dang thing. I wish I studied Chinese in high school.....


----------



## ACE844

ProjectionHead said:


> I just booted up after firmware update and don't recognize a dang thing. I wish I studied Chinese in high school.....


If you have an android download the google translate app
download chinese language for offline translation
Select chinese to english for language translation under text box
click on camera and aim it at the screen.
You should be good from there


----------



## donw

zaselim said:


> For me its only in Office mode the rgb sliders don't do anything when moved, the sliders work on all of the other modes (view, slient and night).
> I dont know if anyone else check it or not since most of the owners are using view mode.
> Now like I said earlier, i can't notice the left corner focus issue when watching anything i only notice in text (stills, like my desktop or when browsing internet) and only at the edge around the top left corner area and its still very easily readable and only slightly less focused then the rest.
> I talked to formovie and they told me today that focus issue is a hardware issue as well as the red tint in the middle of the screen and they said this is first time they heard about rgb slider not doing anything even if its only in office mode.
> They told me to get a replacement.
> But they also told me that all 4 corner can't be equally focused but if focus is too out even if it is in one corner then it is a hardware issue and needs repairing or replacement according to your contract with the seller.
> The seller is telling me I will have to pay for the shippment and taxes if i want replacement, now I don't know which taxes he is talking about since i paid for the projector once already and i dont need to pay them again which i confirmed from customs. If its just a shippment from my side than i am willing but if i have to pay for the return shippment then I don't think my issue is that big enough to pay around 500 for shipping (charges when i send from my end plus the shipping charges when they send back the replacement from their end) charges alone. And if he is asking for the taxes they will get when i send the projector there then it will add the extra cost as well. If i only have to pay for the shipping charges from my end which is around 240usd then i can do that if they will be sending me the replacement.


Sounds fishy to me, as Fengmi requires their sellers to support the product for 1 year with free shipping and 2 additional years at your cost for shipping. My seller reimbursed me the cost to ship my first projector to their US connection.


----------



## humax

ProjectionHead said:


> edit: I just cracked it open to play around and share some quick pics with y'all.
> I do see some CA on the focus screen and am having a real hard time dialing it all in. Will let @Dave Harper and his magic eyes take that over for me next week while he tunes this bad boy in for me to really evaluate.



Thank you for taking the time to post these pictures! I am sure you had better things to do with your time. So, it seems they kept their promise and do provide some short of rudimentary CMS and further picture adjustments with the international version. Interesting!


----------



## Joered101

ProjectionHead said:


> Haven't even had a chance to open the box yet. May not get around to it until early next week but will update in here once I do.
> 
> edit: I just cracked it open to play around and share some quick pics with y'all.
> I do see some CA on the focus screen and am having a real hard time dialing it all in. Will let @Dave Harper and his magic eyes take that over for me next week while he tunes this bad boy in for me to really evaluate.
> 
> View attachment 3270419
> View attachment 3270420
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> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> View attachment 3270430


Oh wow! Does that look like CMS then? For correct calibration?


----------



## ProjectionHead

Joered101 said:


> Oh wow! Does that look like CMS then? For correct calibration?


It appears to be. Not going to have any time to play with it again until next week but will keep y'all updated


----------



## rjyap

ProjectionHead said:


> Haven't even had a chance to open the box yet. May not get around to it until early next week but will update in here once I do.
> 
> edit: I just cracked it open to play around and share some quick pics with y'all.
> I do see some CA on the focus screen and am having a real hard time dialing it all in. Will let @Dave Harper and his magic eyes take that over for me next week while he tunes this bad boy in for me to really evaluate.


Looks like my wishlist is here, 11 point greyscale adjustment and CMS. If it’s working, this would be a great unit to get below USD 5k.


----------



## wltam

Hey @m0j0! I finally got my Vertex2 and got it hooked up to my T1 with your settings and I just love it! Such an improvement!! However, I can’t manage to get my sound bar (ATMOS) working with the Vertex2 setup and was wondering if you might assist?

FYI - I connect my shield to the Vertex2, then Vertex2 to my T1 from which its connected to my LG sound bar. However, still I can’t seem to get any ATMOS sound while without the Vertex2 it all worked well. Hence would you be able to recommend, what I might did wrong?


----------



## aerodynamics

ProjectionHead said:


> Haven't even had a chance to open the box yet. May not get around to it until early next week but will update in here once I do.
> 
> edit: I just cracked it open to play around and share some quick pics with y'all.
> I do see some CA on the focus screen and am having a real hard time dialing it all in. Will let @Dave Harper and his magic eyes take that over for me next week while he tunes this bad boy in for me to really evaluate.
> 
> View attachment 3270419
> View attachment 3270420
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3270421
> 
> 
> View attachment 3270423
> 
> 
> View attachment 3270424
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3270427
> 
> 
> View attachment 3270432
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3270431
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3270429
> 
> 
> View attachment 3270430


Oh **** its got a CMS!


----------



## humax

rjyap said:


> Looks like my wishlist is here, 11 point greyscale adjustment and CMS. If it’s working, this would be a great unit to get below USD 5k.




Further visible additions are Cyan, Yellow, Magenta, Flesh tone sliders and three gamma presets. I wonder, if they make these additions also available to FengOS. Probably not and a hack may be required for flashing to the international firmware. I have not heard of anyone successfully flashing their Chinese ALPD model to an international version yet. Perhaps, I am wrong though.


----------



## antjes

humax said:


> Further visible additions are Cyan, Yellow, Magenta, Flesh tone sliders and three gamma presets. I wonder, if they make these additions also available to FengOS. Probably not and a hack may be required for flashing to the international firmware. I have not heard of anyone successfully flashing their Chinese ALPD model to an international version yet. Perhaps, I am wrong though.


My perception is that they abandon us.....

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## m0j0

wltam said:


> Hey @m0j0! I finally got my Vertex2 and got it hooked up to my T1 with your settings and I just love it! Such an improvement!! However, I can’t manage to get my sound bar working with the Vertex2 setup and was wondering if you might assist?
> 
> FYI - I connect my shield to the Vertex2, then Vertex2 to my T1 from which its connected to my LG sound bar. However, still I can’t seem to get any sound while without the Vertex2 it all worked well. Hence would you be able to recommend, what I might did wrong?


Do you have an Audio receiver (AVR)?


----------



## wltam

wltam said:


> Hey @m0j0! I finally got my Vertex2 and got it hooked up to my T1 with your settings and I just love it! Such an improvement!! However, I can’t manage to get my sound bar working with the Vertex2 setup and was wondering if you might assist?
> 
> FYI - I connect my shield to the Vertex2, then Vertex2 to my T1 from which its connected to my LG sound bar. However, still I can’t seem to get any sound while without the Vertex2 it all worked well. Hence would you be able to recommend, what I might did wrong?





m0j0 said:


> Do you have an Audio receiver (AVR)?


I have a sound bar (LG SN11R) but no AVR and I made a mistake, I meant no atmos sound/signal.
I do hear things though but no ATMOS signal passes through.


----------



## m0j0

wltam said:


> I have a sound bar (LG SN11R) but no AVR and I made a mistake, I meant no atmos sound/signal.
> I do hear things though but no ATMOS signal passes through.


Ok, so just two places to check/configure. On the T1 and on the Shield. I don't use the sound on the T1 so am not familiar with it, but I do recall a few pages back someone had the menu options showing atmos, so make sure that is selected. Also, check your Shield and make sure it's configured for atmos. Apparently, you can go in to device preferences, display and sound, advanced sound settings, select formats. Select Auto and it will select the option automatically, or select manual and you can use the sliders to enable atmos.


----------



## m0j0

humax said:


> Further visible additions are Cyan, Yellow, Magenta, Flesh tone sliders and three gamma presets. I wonder, if they make these additions also available to FengOS. Probably not and a hack may be required for flashing to the international firmware. I have not heard of anyone successfully flashing their Chinese ALPD model to an international version yet. Perhaps, I am wrong though.


I would need to see some results from this first before believing it's a full cms. I think it might just be some built in Android OS stuff and not sure if it will carry over if you're not using apps on the Android side.


----------



## humax

antjes said:


> My perception is that they abandon us.....



Not really. The global version will sell for more and they had to provide something extra to justify the price. The addition of an CMS makes this a well rounded unit. Only thing missing now is 3D support and they said they would consider adding it, if they had enough requests.


----------



## spocky12

ted_b said:


> ? No offense, but unless one is a member of your inner circle this comment is rather vague and ambiguous, especially for folks who have, in only the past few months, found this thread and the T1. Life's too short for hunting for decoder rings. Thanks.


It wasn't meant to be ambiguous but informative (ie : don't bother looking for it, the job is already done). 
I said I would wait for the new firmware before releasing a Projectivy update. It's been less than a day. Please give me time, I have a life outside this forum


----------



## antjes

humax said:


> Not really. The global version will sell for more and they had to provide something extra to justify the price. The addition of an CMS makes this a well rounded unit. Only thing missing now is 3D support and they said they would consider adding it, if they had enough requests.


Those improvements are based on the feedback given by some of "our" lucky testers, Who gently have spent their time. 
The original firmware was for an unfinished product, and the last one has still some details to polish.
Any case, one of the reasons which makes me in was the comunity so I hope there will be an inhouse improvement 


Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Tanizhq

m0j0 said:


> I would need to see some results from this first before believing it's a full cms. I think it might just be some built in Android OS stuff and not sure if it will carry over if you're not using apps on the Android side.


Yeah this is what I'm thinking, only applies to apps within the OS like some FengOS settings currently do. If you have a seperate box like the AppleTV or Shield or Zidoo, I imagine it wont follow those settings. Still will be interesting to know how it works.

@spocky12 Do you think it is possible to flash the Chinese version with AndroidOS (basically making it the International version)?


----------



## spocky12

Tanizhq said:


> Yeah this is what I'm thinking, only applies to apps within the OS like some FengOS settings currently do. If you have a seperate box like the AppleTV or Shield or Zidoo, I imagine it wont follow those settings. Still will be interesting to know how it works.
> 
> @spocky12 Do you think it is possible to flash the Chinese version with AndroidOS (basically making it the International version)?


I don't think so. It wasn't possible on previous devices because of the hardware differences that still exists on the most recent ones.
With the necessary time and knowledge, it might be possible to make a custom ROM, but I'm not experienced on that matter and won't risk a brick on such a pricey device.


----------



## humax

Tanizhq said:


> Yeah this is what I'm thinking, only applies to apps within the OS like some FengOS settings currently do. If you have a seperate box like the AppleTV or Shield or Zidoo, I imagine it wont follow those settings. Still will be interesting to know how it works.
> 
> @spocky12 Do you think it is possible to flash the Chinese version with AndroidOS (basically making it the International version)?



This seems to be part of the picture menu, so there is a good chance it is a proper CMS. We will see.

As for flashing to the international version it would be really nice if possible, but then what is the point of paying more for the new model? It would be like Fengmi shooting their own foot. A possible hack may be your best bet and even then, you could still brick your projector.


----------



## wltam

m0j0 said:


> Ok, so just two places to check/configure. On the T1 and on the Shield. I don't use the sound on the T1 so am not familiar with it, but I do recall a few pages back someone had the menu options showing atmos, so make sure that is selected. Also, check your Shield and make sure it's configured for atmos. Apparently, you can go in to device preferences, display and sound, advanced sound settings, select formats. Select Auto and it will select the option automatically, or select manual and you can use the sliders to enable atmos.


I also don’t use the T1 for sound. I use a soundbar via T1’s eARC as output. Without the Vertex2 in between my shield and the T1, my soundbar processes Atmos perfectly. I therefore do believe that the Vertex2 is missing some additional configs. Do you have any experience/suggestions with that?


----------



## zaselim

gen_x said:


> What size is your screen?


around 120", close to 118.
Mine also says Mstar demo , don't know why.


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

m0j0 said:


> I spent some more time last night focused on dialing in custom colors with the Vrroom set to 700 nits on the DV tab. I liked that setting yesterday for the kids shows, setting it to view mode brightness and display mode. I got a good custom color setting that works well for night viewing and yet is very similar to the display mode setting we use at daytime. It stands up well across a lot of the content I check so I think it's going to be good. This could potentially be a mostly set it and forget it type setup, with the caveat being that you have to set it to display mode in the daytime and switch over to custom in the evening.
> 
> Here's the settings:
> 
> DV tab set to 700 nits on the Vrroom:
> 
> Daytime setting on the T1
> Brightness Mode: View Mode
> Image Parameters
> Display Mode
> 
> Night time setting on the T1:
> Brightness Mode: View Mode
> Image Parameters
> Custom:
> Brightness: 49
> Contrast: 49
> Saturation: 50
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 52
> Color Custom:
> Red: 980
> Green: 956
> Blue: 867
> 
> Tested with Roku Ultra and Zidoo Z9X


Very nice, @m0j0 … did you make any changes to the HDR page in the HDFury, or are they still as you shared in post 4593?


----------



## xrayg1971

t333 said:


> guys
> 1) is it safe to update to latest firmware now? heard some issues with sound etc
> 
> 2)has anyone have any experience with "fengmi 100 inch screen from banggood vs" vava 100 inch alr screen? which one will be more closer and good alternative to XY PET crystal?


I have the vava 100 and love it ... looks great and built well .. the pet crystal screen is alot more so i guess it better dunno .. i have zero issues with the vava 100 screen love it in fact ( and its last years model not this years model )


----------



## m0j0

Scott Rosenberg said:


> Very nice, @m0j0 … did you make any changes to the HDR page in the HDFury, or are they still as you shared in post 4593?


No, no changes to the HDR tab.


----------



## m0j0

wltam said:


> I also don’t use the T1 for sound. I use a soundbar via T1’s eARC as output. Without the Vertex2 in between my shield and the T1, my soundbar processes Atmos perfectly. I therefore do believe that the Vertex2 is missing some additional configs. Do you have any experience/suggestions with that?


Ok, got it. There are some eARC options in the Vertex2, so I would check and make sure you’ve got the appropriate ones checked/enabled. Also, I think only certain ports support eARC, so make sure you check the Vertex2 documentation/diagrams.


----------



## erredoisbr

Petition for Formovie Fengmi T1 upgrade to 3D
Support the petition:








Sign the Petition


Formovie Fengmi T1: 3D upgrade




chng.it


----------



## ted_b

spocky12 said:


> It wasn't meant to be ambiguous but informative (ie : don't bother looking for it, the job is already done).
> I said I would wait for the new firmware before releasing a Projectivy update. It's been less than a day. Please give me time, I have a life outside this forum


Sorry, I apologize for the curt tone....I don't know what Projectivy is, nor that you said something about waiting til the new firmware. I'll watch from the sidelines and learn. Thx


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

erredoisbr said:


> Petition for Formovie Fengmi T1 upgrade to 3D
> Support the petition:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sign the Petition
> 
> 
> Formovie Fengmi T1: 3D upgrade
> 
> 
> 
> 
> chng.it


I too would LOVE to see this added, but Fengmi support previously told me that 3D capability would require hardware changes and therefore could not be enabled via firmware.


----------



## lattiboy

wltam said:


> I have a sound bar (LG SN11R) but no AVR and I made a mistake, I meant no atmos sound/signal.
> I do hear things though but no ATMOS signal passes through.


I have the same soundbar and no issues with Atmos using the eARC on the T1. Do NOT use the “audio out” port on the Vertex 2. I tried multiple times and it never worked right. I have all the eARC stuff in the vertex on auto and have the T1 eARC set to “pass through”. Works with no issues for me on the Roku Ultra.


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

ACE844 said:


> If you have an android download the google translate app download chinese language for offline translation. Select chinese to english for language translation under text box click on camera and aim it at the screen. You should be good from there.


Works in iOS, too. Living in Asia, this is used daily! The camera function is terrific, as it will translate all text in the 'from' language live on the screen. @ProjectionHead... drop me a line if you need a hand.


----------



## t333

m0j0 said:


> I would recommend the xyscreen pet crystal. They might cost a little more but their frames are built well and easy to put together and I received mine within 5 days.


I have 120 PET crystal...i really like it i just need another 100 screen,so trying to see if there is something that comes close to it without spending too much again.



xrayg1971 said:


> I have the vava 100 and love it ... looks great and built well .. the pet crystal screen is alot more so i guess it better dunno .. i have zero issues with the vava 100 screen love it in fact ( and its last years model not this years model )


Do u know if vava is .6 gain or .8 gain?


----------



## t333

wltam said:


> I also don’t use the T1 for sound. I use a soundbar via T1’s eARC as output. Without the Vertex2 in between my shield and the T1, my soundbar processes Atmos perfectly. I therefore do believe that the Vertex2 is missing some additional configs. Do you have any experience/suggestions with that?


@wltam how are u getting sound from T1 eARC port? I tried connecting my shield to hdmi port 1 and ran cable from T1 port 3 to my AVR input and there was no sound...so i connected everything back like shield>AVR>T1.


----------



## zoomx2

t333 said:


> @wltam how are u getting sound from T1 eARC port? I tried connecting my shield to hdmi port 1 and ran cable from T1 port 3 to my AVR input and there was no sound...so i connected everything back like shield>AVR>T1.


Make sure Sound eARC on not speaker in main menu.


----------



## esegan

Joered101 said:


> Oh wow! Does that look like CMS then? For correct calibration?


For more accurate calibration, the presence of CMS settings is not enough. As a rule, bad colors are affected strongly by the RGB gray scale. Judging by the photo of T1 in DV, the red tint colors the entire picture and all colors, this means that the problem is not in the CMS setting, but the problem of shifting the RGB gray scale. Therefore, in 1 turn you need to adjust the RGB gray scale. Therefore, in addition to the CMS settings, the RGB gray scale settings are also very important and preferably not only general RGB, but extended by 2 and 10/20 points. In addition to correcting the overall RGB hue, the 2-point and 10/20-point RGB settings can correct the hue over the entire gray scale range from 5 to 100, as well as align the gamma linearly across the entire 5-100 scale.


----------



## esegan

humax said:


> . I wonder, if they make these additions also available to FengOS. Probably not and a hack may be required for flashing to the international firmware.


I think the Chinese version of T1 also has these settings, they are just hidden and you need an application through which you can get into these android settings. It's just that in the global version there is no FengOS shell, but an android shell right away and therefore direct access to the exact settings.
You can also change the language in the android settings, but there is no guarantee that they work except for English, so you need to check.
spocky12 wrote that he has access to these exact settings in android, but for some reason does not want to share how to do it.


----------



## Joered101

esegan said:


> For more accurate calibration, the presence of CMS settings is not enough. As a rule, bad colors are affected strongly by the RGB gray scale. Judging by the photo of T1 in DV, the red tint colors the entire picture and all colors, this means that the problem is not in the CMS setting, but the problem of shifting the RGB gray scale. Therefore, in 1 turn you need to adjust the RGB gray scale. Therefore, in addition to the CMS settings, the RGB gray scale settings are also very important and preferably not only general RGB, but extended by 2 and 10/20 points. In addition to correcting the overall RGB hue, the 2-point and 10/20-point RGB settings can correct the hue over the entire gray scale range from 5 to 100, as well as align the gamma linearly across the entire 5-100 scale.


Thanks for the clarification, I believe you are able to change the grey scale as well right? It seems to have gain and offset so that should be for this I thought? Aha and definitely want to find out if I can get cms on the Chinese version before I fork out more just for a different OS when I’ll be using a player anyway. Hopefully soon because I’m sold on the t1 now I think


----------



## wltam

lattiboy said:


> I have the same soundbar and no issues with Atmos using the eARC on the T1. Do NOT use the “audio out” port on the Vertex 2. I tried multiple times and it never worked right. I have all the eARC stuff in the vertex on auto and have the T1 eARC set to “pass through”. Works with no issues for me on the Roku Ultra.


I am doubting wether Atmos signals are really being sent to my Soundbar given that the Soundbar doesn’t indicate it. Do you have the same ‘issue’ @lattiboy? Do you see the words Atmos popping up on your led panel of the Soundbar?

FYI- these are my settings in the Vertex:










Should I perhaps change my EDID to Full? - Do you do this? @m0j0


----------



## humax

esegan said:


> I think the Chinese version of T1 also has these settings, they are just hidden and you need an application through which you can get into these android settings. It's just that in the global version there is no FengOS shell, but an android shell right away and therefore direct access to the exact settings.



There is a clear difference between having an official set of options and using any sort of trickery to access them. Most users, myself included, don't want to bother with that. It all depends on the price difference of the international version really. Plus, you get rid of all the Chinese stuff. I was bummed the global version has a lower specked processor, 2GB Ram and 32gb Rom, but an CMS changes things and this becomes a contender again.



esegan said:


> You can also change the language in the android settings, but there is no guarantee that they work except for English, so you need to check.



English language is fine for the majority of users. I am Greek and I always use English menus on any of my devices.




esegan said:


> spocky12 wrote that he has access to these exact settings in android, but for some reason does not want to share how to do it.



I do not know about that, but again unofficial solution. He also mentioned that a custom rom will be needed to gain similar functionality to the global version. What happens, if you brick it flashing it? This is not a 60$ android box.


----------



## humax

esegan said:


> For more accurate calibration, the presence of CMS settings is not enough. As a rule, bad colors are affected strongly by the RGB gray scale.



Hey, it is a start, right? Up to now, this thing basically did not have an CMS, so progress has been made in just four months, after initial product release. It is certainly better than no calibration options at all.


----------



## humax

Scott Rosenberg said:


> I too would LOVE to see this added, but Fengmi support previously told me that 3D capability would require hardware changes and therefore could not be enabled via firmware.



I also signed up, although I only have 3-4 3D blu-rays and don't really care. Worst case scenario, they won't even bother.

As for hardware compatibility, VAVA Chroma is a similar ALPD 4.0 design and it has 3D support from the get-go, so there is a good chance this is not a real problem. Software-wise, FengOS certainly does not support 3D right now. I don't think official android has this issue.


----------



## esegan

humax said:


> There is a clear difference between having an official set of options and using any sort of trickery to access them. Most users, myself included, don't want to bother with that. It all depends on the price difference of the international version really. Plus, you get rid of all the Chinese stuff. I was bummed the global version has a lower specked processor, 2GB Ram and 32gb Rom, but an CMS changes things and this becomes a contender again.
> English language is fine for the majority of users. I am Greek and I always use English menus on any of my devices.
> I do not know about that, but again unofficial solution. He also mentioned that a custom rom will be needed to gain similar functionality to the global version. What happens, if you brick it flashing it? This is not a 60$ android box.


This is not a trick, but official applications for accessing android settings. Considering that many Chinese manufacturers do not have advanced settings other than general RGB, the hidden presence of these settings is a gift for advanced users. You can not use these hidden settings, no one is forcing you and you can exchange T1 for the global version. But you yourself write that the global version is more budgetary, lower processor, less memory, more expensive. The T1 owner will have to sell $500 cheaper and pay more for the global model. You can lose up to $1,000 in total. I don't think this will suit everyone.
To access the android settings, you need to install the official application. What risks are you talking about? This is not a service menu. I posted a photo of the hidden settings of the Dangbei X3 android projector a few pages ago. Through these settings, I set up the projector using a calibration device.
You need to understand that CMS settings are not the whole range of settings and they only adjust color images. But the video consists of 2 parameters, this is a black and white image and a color is overlaid. First of all, a black and white image is set up, the gray scale is called in the calibration, you also need to set up a linear gamma of 2.2-2.4 or 1886, and only then 6 CMS colors are set up.
Moreover, you won’t be able to set up CMS without a calibration device, but you can even eliminate and improve the gray scale hue, you can even by eye, remove saturation by 0 and visually eliminate the hue in a black and white image with the gray scale settings if there is no device for calibration.


----------



## 3sprit

ted_b said:


> I don't know what Projectivy is











[GUIDE][RECOVERY][ROM] Xiaomi/Fengmi/Wemax Mi Led/Laser Projector/TV


Projectivy Launcher (formerly ProjecTivy Tools) now has its own dedicated thread located here. Intro There's so much information here that a new user could probably feel lost without the courage to read everything. So let's keep things simple ...




forum.xda-developers.com




🙂


----------



## humax

3sprit said:


> [GUIDE][RECOVERY][ROM] Xiaomi/Fengmi/Wemax Mi Led/Laser Projector/TV
> 
> 
> Projectivy Launcher (formerly ProjecTivy Tools) now has its own dedicated thread located here. Intro There's so much information here that a new user could probably feel lost without the courage to read everything. So let's keep things simple ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> forum.xda-developers.com



I did not know what it was either, so thank you. I 'll read as much of this thread as I can. However, one of the first posts I got my eye on was the following:

"Hey guys, I got my projector bricked and I am currently trying to recover it. I did try few things without any luck."

Makes you think twice, before messing around with such things.


----------



## zaselim

What do you use to clean the lens area of T1, i have a bit of stain(not a scratch) on it and its not coming off with the cloth came with T1. Its causing a little bit of bluish stain on the screen, it is very dim and only noticeable on white screen. 
I have had similar couple of times before but i was able to clean(gently) it with same cloth and it cleaned the glass but i think i need some liquid for the current one.


----------



## humax

esegan said:


> This is not a trick, but official applications for accessing android settings. Considering that many Chinese manufacturers do not have advanced settings other than general RGB, the hidden presence of these settings is a gift for advanced users. You can not use these hidden settings, no one is forcing you and you can exchange T1 for the global version. But you yourself write that the global version is more budgetary, lower processor, less memory, more expensive. The T1 owner will have to sell $500 cheaper and pay more for the global model. You can lose up to $1,000 in total. I don't think this will suit everyone.
> To access the android settings, you need to install the official application. What risks are you talking about? This is not a service menu. I posted a photo of the hidden settings of the Dangbei X3 android projector a few pages ago. Through these settings, I set up the projector using a calibration device.



You make valid points, especially for those who have already bought the Chinese version, although I suspect they already envy the current lack of CMS. If it can be done safely through a simple app, then by all means use it. I will too. I am up for everything that saves me money. However, this is all hypothetical at the moment and even if it can be easily done, I don't think Fengmi will be happy about it. As for the global version, if it has the same picture quality, it seems to be a more consumer friendly version of the current T1. Lower specked processor in practice will probably make apps run slower and not affect PQ. Like I have said, it all comes down to the price difference between the two versions.


----------



## humax

zaselim said:


> I have had similar couple of times before but i was able to clean(gently) it with same cloth and it cleaned the glass but i think i need some liquid for the current one.




You could try using something like this:

Amazon.com : Tiffen Lens Cleaner Fluid 1.25oz Bottle : Camera Cleaning Kits : Electronics


----------



## antjes

zaselim said:


> What do you use to clean the lens area of T1, i have a bit of stain(not a scratch) on it and its not coming off with the cloth came with T1. Its causing a little bit of bluish stain on the screen, it is very dim and only noticeable on white screen.
> I have had similar couple of times before but i was able to clean(gently) it with same cloth and it cleaned the glass but i think i need some liquid for the current one.


I can see in my unit the same green strips only visible in white screen, some of them from outside dust and I'm praying that no one is inside.
It is mandatory to cover these USTs...

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## zaselim

antjes said:


> I can see in my unit the same green strips only visible in white screen, some of them from outside dust and I'm praying that no one is inside.
> It is mandatory to cover these USTs...
> 
> Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


Yeah mine is also only can be seen on white screen i have just one in the middle slightly to the right around 4 inch above from the bottom of the screen. For mine you have to really look for it for your eyes to notice it on white screen but my eyes pick these extra minor things lol. 
I will try camera lens cleaner like the one mentioned in the above reply to remove it.


----------



## m0j0

A few pictures from last night (had to bump up contrast on Ghost in the Shell to 80 to get a decent brightness, otherwise, I was running at either 50 or 55 contrast).


----------



## t333

just decided to post some random pictures ... [i know not as good as @m0j0 ]
using view mode --no HDfurry devices-source is shield pro---screen is120 XY
(btw today i will be downloading the latest fw)


----------



## Maqnvm7

Hi

I wanted to give a quick review after one month of extensive usage. I’m using the T1 in combination with a 110’’ Vividstorm UST screen. Unfortunately, this review was written a day before the new firmware came out, so this is still on firmware 1.4, but I’m planning on writing a follow up.

As expected, the colors and the detail are unreal. Especially with native Dolby Vision.
Like really, my LG OLED has nothing on these colors, it’s like seeing colors for the first time. Now, you could say it’s just the saturation, but increasing it on my LG OLED just results in a really artificial looking image. That’s not the case with the T1, although some photos posted on here do look a bit like that, but I think that’s just a problem with the photos themselves, because taking an accurate photo of the projector picture seems impossible to me (atleast on my iPhone).

I would definitely force DV on all content if possible, unless you have some sort of HDFury device.
Of course, the red push is still very much visible, but from what I’ve seen it’s fixed in the new firmware anyway.

The biggest surprises to me were brightness, motion handling and sound.
This thing can get really bright. At night I have to use lower brightness as it’s almost hurting my eyes. The motion handling is also surprisingly great. Even with Blurays (player set to 60hz). Panning shots look much better than on my LG OLED. Lastly, the sound this thing puts out is absolutely phenomenal. Sadly, there’s no way to use it as a center speaker right now, so it’s pretty much useless in my case.

Now to the negatives. Maybe I’m a bit too critical, as this is my first projector but yeah.
There’s definitely some kind of rainbow effect going on. It’s pretty noticeable with small bright things like subtitles, but lowering brightness greatly reduces its apparency.

Another weird phenomenon I come across here and there is weird colors when the movie switches scenes or cuts. I thought engaging Dolby Vision fixed the problem, but no, it’s still visible occasionally. It might actually be related to the rainbow effect in some way, as in the lasers can’t change to the colors of the new scene quickly enough. But like I said, it doesn’t happen (or I don’t notice it) very often.









I was also a bit disappointed by the black level. I didn’t expect OLED levels of black of course, but still, it looks nowhere near as black as some of the photos on here would suggest. Though my phone has an OLED screen, so that might be the reason. However, it must be pointed out that the black levels in my local cinema aren’t better by any means. So it’s not really a negative thing I guess.

BUT there’s quite some black crushing with certain movies. It’s easily fixable with a custom image setting, but sadly that isn’t available with Dolby Vision active. Might have to get an HDFury device for this…

Another problem is the focus. No matter how I align/tilt/move the projector, the top left of the picture is always really blurry. Even with the focus adjustment in the settings. Now, to be fair this problem isn’t very noticeable when watching a movie BUT the blurriness isn’t the only problem. The bigger problem is that the top of the picture isn’t straight. From the middle to the left corner it takes a huge dive and in this case it sadly is really noticeable, particularly on movies with black bars. I still think it’s some kind of horizontal alignment problem, as the projector only has 3 feet (2 in the front and 1 in the middle/back), which makes no sense to me.









Then there’s the HDMI problems of course. Really annoying to always switch HDMI and stuff, but in the end not that big of a deal.
Regarding speckle, I mostly don’t notice any interestingly enough. I can only see it on really, really red objects.

In short:
Positives:
• Colors
• Detail
• Sound (although irrelevant in my case)
• Brightness
• Motion handling

Negatives:
• Rare rainbow effect & weird scene transitions
• Black crushing
• Focus / alignment issues
• HDMI problems
• Slight speckle on really red stuff


----------



## okvcos

m0j0 said:


> A few pictures from last night (had to bump up contrast on Ghost in the Shell to 80 to get a decent brightness, otherwise, I was running at either 50 or 55 contrast).


With the Zidoo Z9X and Vertex2, I have noticed that some HDR movies come out darker and need more contrast. 
To do this I prefer to use LLDV only for SDR and DV movies, while HDR movies,and HDR + 10 movies, i use the contrast value directly from the Z9X from 32 to 36.
The nits value on the Vertex is 700


----------



## m0j0

t333 said:


> just decided to post some random pictures ... [i know not as good as @m0j0 ]
> using view mode --no HDfurry devices-source is shield pro---screen is120 XY
> (btw today i will be downloading the latest fw)


Excellent pics!


----------



## humax

Maqnvm7 said:


> I wanted to give a quick review after one month of extensive usage. I’m using the T1 in combination with a 110’’ Vividstorm UST screen. Unfortunately, this review was written a day before the new firmware came out, so this is still on firmware 1.4, but I’m planning on writing a follow up.



Very good write up with all the pros and cons. FengOS 2.0 should provide some improvement with things like focus and red tint, but if there is to be any further 10-15% picture quality increase on things that can be improved, it will be through an experienced calibrator and a CMS. As for black levels, this thing is not a JVC and even JVC does not do OLED blacks. JVC is also only blue laser, not RGB like this one, so pick your poison. Since I don't see any significant DLP laser engine improvement other than ALPD in the near future, perhaps we will see massively better black levels, when carbon black screens come out.


----------



## xrayg1971

t333 said:


> I have 120 PET crystal...i really like it i just need another 100 screen,so trying to see if there is something that comes close to it without spending too much again.
> 
> 
> Do u know if vava is .6 gain or .8 gain?


,6


----------



## slickrock

zaselim said:


> What do you use to clean the lens area of T1, i have a bit of stain(not a scratch) on it and its not coming off with the cloth came with T1. Its causing a little bit of bluish stain on the screen, it is very dim and only noticeable on white screen.
> I have had similar couple of times before but i was able to clean(gently) it with same cloth and it cleaned the glass but i think i need some liquid for the current one.


I removed the ND lens cover altogether. Got about 4% higher luminance from the T1 in the process. The L9P I had before had no such cover, which gave me the idea. I have still have the cover handy if pets or kids are around.


----------



## humax

slickrock said:


> I removed the ND lens cover altogether. Got about 4% higher luminance from the T1 in the process. The L9P I had before had no such cover, which gave me the idea. I have still have the cover handy if pets or kids are around.



So, does it simply come out? What did you use to remove it? A small screwdriver? Won't the projector be susceptible to dust accumulation inside the inner optical system? That does not sound too good in the long run for the unit's health.


----------



## slickrock

humax said:


> So, does it simply come out? What did you use to remove it? A small screwdriver? Won't the projector be susceptible to dust accumulation inside the inner optical system? That does not sound too good in the long run for the unit's health.


My particular unit, when I got it, did not have the filter cover properly glued down. It was sticking up slightly on the left side. At first I tried to press it back down, but then started to think its purpose in the first place other than aesthetics and to keep out dust. In a way when I first got my L9P beforehand, I was drawn into the fact that projection area had no cover at all (this was my first UST so wasn't sure if this was typical SOP design). Hisense, from a product design angle and in understanding operational implications of it, provided a dusting brush and air bulb to deal with contaminants with instructions to clearly not mess with the mirror by touching it. The maintenance tradeoff here is higher luminance which I feel the L9P product was going after (deemed as a laser tv rather than a cinema projector like the PX1-Pro). Clearly this is an alternative product approach than the T1 which is understandably more child proof.

So I pulled out the filter with my fingers, and found the the optical path was pretty much the same as the L9P, albeit the L9P has a larger mirror. This glue binding it was neither too stickly nor too weak. The filter itself has no apparent anti reflective coating, and seems low quality and has very slight green tint to it ( This ain't no Takahashi fluorite low N filter we are talking about here) . A typical piece of glass will have around 4% luminance loss. I moved the filter 90 degrees to see the impact with it in the path and not at the same time, and I can clearly see the improved vibrance, color, luminance.

Now, I just treat the filter as a lens cover when projector is not in use for some time or when rugrats and critters are about.


----------



## xrayg1971

esegan said:


> This is not a trick, but official applications for accessing android settings. Considering that many Chinese manufacturers do not have advanced settings other than general RGB, the hidden presence of these settings is a gift for advanced users. You can not use these hidden settings, no one is forcing you and you can exchange T1 for the global version. But you yourself write that the global version is more budgetary, lower processor, less memory, more expensive. The T1 owner will have to sell $500 cheaper and pay more for the global model. You can lose up to $1,000 in total. I don't think this will suit everyone.
> To access the android settings, you need to install the official application. What risks are you talking about? This is not a service menu. I posted a photo of the hidden settings of the Dangbei X3 android projector a few pages ago. Through these settings, I set up the projector using a calibration device.
> You need to understand that CMS settings are not the whole range of settings and they only adjust color images. But the video consists of 2 parameters, this is a black and white image and a color is overlaid. First of all, a black and white image is set up, the gray scale is called in the calibration, you also need to set up a linear gamma of 2.2-2.4 or 1886, and only then 6 CMS colors are set up.
> Moreover, you won’t be able to set up CMS without a calibration device, but you can even eliminate and improve the gray scale hue, you can even by eye, remove saturation by 0 and visually eliminate the hue in a black and white image with the gray scale settings if there is no device for calibration.


how can we access these settings in the t1 ?


----------



## ProFragger

Guys - A question about the T1 and screen... Do you guys think there is a noticeable difference between .6 and .8 gain screens? Also my understanding is that the PET Crystal is .8 and VAVA is .6?

I will use in a media room with no windows, if it matters? Thanks.


----------



## xrayg1971

ProFragger said:


> Guys - Supply question about the T1 and screen... Do you guys think there is a noticeable difference between .6 and .8 gain screens? Also my understanding is that the PET Crystal is .8 and VAVA is .6?
> 
> I will use in a media room with no windows, if it matters? Thanks.


im telling you the vava is the way to go ..700 for this years model and 400 for last years model .. for the price cant go wrong .. if you wanna spend 1200 on a pet crystal by all means .. it may be 10-15% better


----------



## humax

Ultra Short Throw Projector Screen Comparison: PET Crystal vs PET Grid | Email: [email protected] - YouTube 

Pet Crystal vs Pet Grid in a bright room. Difference will be smaller in the dark.


----------



## ProFragger

xrayg1971 said:


> im telling you the vava is the way to go ..700 for this years model and 400 for last years model .. for the price cant go wrong .. if you wanna spend 1200 on a pet crystal by all means .. it may be 10-15% better


Thanks friend. May I ask why you're so convinced? Have you used both? Does VAVA come in a 120"?


----------



## Grazed

Maqnvm7 said:


> Hi
> 
> I wanted to give a quick review after one month of extensive usage. I’m using the T1 in combination with a 110’’ Vividstorm UST screen. Unfortunately, this review was written a day before the new firmware came out, so this is still on firmware 1.4, but I’m planning on writing a follow up.
> 
> In short:
> Positives:
> • Colors
> • Detail
> • Sound (although irrelevant in my case)
> • Brightness
> • Motion handling
> 
> Negatives:
> • Rare rainbow effect & weird scene transitions
> • Black crushing
> • Focus / alignment issues
> • HDMI problems
> • Slight speckle on really red stuff


Great writeup, I will say for some of the negatives it sounds like you may have a defective unit as I did not have any focus/alignment issues even when I was on firmware 1.4 (the new firmware didn't change much for me as it was already fine. I added a photo of my focus pattern I took while on the old firmware). Same thing for your weird scene transitions I haven't noticed any of that on old or new firmware. The HDMI handshake issues and slight speckle on really red things I have seen and are still an issue occasionally even on new firmware. I hope those are fixed in the next update.

As far as black levels I will attribute it to this being your first projector so you had nothing to compare it to but I will say as far as other USTs nothing comes close besides the Xiaomi C2 of course. It also depends on what you are watching. If you are just projecting a full black frame yea its no where near actual black but the moment there is some content on screen for me the black bars are black instead of still being noticeably grey on my previous UST projector and others I've tried. I do hope it can continue to get better with newer models as I'm a huge fan of UST over standard throw projectors.


----------



## zaselim

Maqnvm7 said:


> Hi
> 
> I wanted to give a quick review after one month of extensive usage. I’m using the T1 in combination with a 110’’ Vividstorm UST screen. Unfortunately, this review was written a day before the new firmware came out, so this is still on firmware 1.4, but I’m planning on writing a follow up.
> 
> As expected, the colors and the detail are unreal. Especially with native Dolby Vision.
> Like really, my LG OLED has nothing on these colors, it’s like seeing colors for the first time. Now, you could say it’s just the saturation, but increasing it on my LG OLED just results in a really artificial looking image. That’s not the case with the T1, although some photos posted on here do look a bit like that, but I think that’s just a problem with the photos themselves, because taking an accurate photo of the projector picture seems impossible to me (atleast on my iPhone).
> 
> I would definitely force DV on all content if possible, unless you have some sort of HDFury device.
> Of course, the red push is still very much visible, but from what I’ve seen it’s fixed in the new firmware anyway.
> 
> The biggest surprises to me were brightness, motion handling and sound.
> This thing can get really bright. At night I have to use lower brightness as it’s almost hurting my eyes. The motion handling is also surprisingly great. Even with Blurays (player set to 60hz). Panning shots look much better than on my LG OLED. Lastly, the sound this thing puts out is absolutely phenomenal. Sadly, there’s no way to use it as a center speaker right now, so it’s pretty much useless in my case.
> 
> Now to the negatives. Maybe I’m a bit too critical, as this is my first projector but yeah.
> There’s definitely some kind of rainbow effect going on. It’s pretty noticeable with small bright things like subtitles, but lowering brightness greatly reduces its apparency.
> 
> Another weird phenomenon I come across here and there is weird colors when the movie switches scenes or cuts. I thought engaging Dolby Vision fixed the problem, but no, it’s still visible occasionally. It might actually be related to the rainbow effect in some way, as in the lasers can’t change to the colors of the new scene quickly enough. But like I said, it doesn’t happen (or I don’t notice it) very often.
> View attachment 3270732
> 
> 
> I was also a bit disappointed by the black level. I didn’t expect OLED levels of black of course, but still, it looks nowhere near as black as some of the photos on here would suggest. Though my phone has an OLED screen, so that might be the reason. However, it must be pointed out that the black levels in my local cinema aren’t better by any means. So it’s not really a negative thing I guess.
> 
> BUT there’s quite some black crushing with certain movies. It’s easily fixable with a custom image setting, but sadly that isn’t available with Dolby Vision active. Might have to get an HDFury device for this…
> 
> Another problem is the focus. No matter how I align/tilt/move the projector, the top left of the picture is always really blurry. Even with the focus adjustment in the settings. Now, to be fair this problem isn’t very noticeable when watching a movie BUT the blurriness isn’t the only problem. The bigger problem is that the top of the picture isn’t straight. From the middle to the left corner it takes a huge dive and in this case it sadly is really noticeable, particularly on movies with black bars. I still think it’s some kind of horizontal alignment problem, as the projector only has 3 feet (2 in the front and 1 in the middle/back), which makes no sense to me.
> View attachment 3270735
> 
> 
> Then there’s the HDMI problems of course. Really annoying to always switch HDMI and stuff, but in the end not that big of a deal.
> Regarding speckle, I mostly don’t notice any interestingly enough. I can only see it on really, really red objects.
> 
> In short:
> Positives:
> • Colors
> • Detail
> • Sound (although irrelevant in my case)
> • Brightness
> • Motion handling
> 
> Negatives:
> • Rare rainbow effect & weird scene transitions
> • Black crushing
> • Focus / alignment issues
> • HDMI problems
> • Slight speckle on really red stuff


i also have left top corner slightly less focused no matter what i do can't be properly focused but mine is way better than yours, at least mine's not blurry like that. it just looks a bit dull. i can even read very small text on the corner. and in pictures it looks like that its properly focused lol i don't know how my phone camera makes it more clear than it looks in person.
here is my picture, think of it slightly less clearer than the picture in person.







and to me blacks are also great not as good as my Samsung 4k smart tv but very close enough for me that i stopped using my TV.
Today my friends came and they think the focus and red tint in the middle issue is not that big of a deal for me to return the unit. They couldn't even notice the red tint out side of focus or keystone screens. And from where we sit they said focus is sure less clear than the rest and looks a little un clear from up close but not from where we sit. They also were able to read even tiniest text.
Now i am more relaxed than before to some degree lol. I hope it remains the same and doesn't go worse.
My desktop (look at mypc text on the top left it less clear than 3d/art at the bottom left but still readable and how small it is. The picture was less aligned from top left and right corners but a lot better now. I am custom making my own table for T1 so then it will be properly aligned.


----------



## Maqnvm7

Grazed said:


> Great writeup, I will say for some of the negatives it sounds like you may have a defective unit as I did not have any focus/alignment issues even when I was on firmware 1.4 (the new firmware didn't change much for me as it was already fine. I added a photo of my focus pattern I took while on the old firmware). Same thing for your weird scene transitions I haven't noticed any of that on old or new firmware. The HDMI handshake issues and slight speckle on really red things I have seen and are still an issue occasionally even on new firmware. I hope those are fixed in the next update.
> 
> As far as black levels I will attribute it to this being your first projector so you had nothing to compare it to but I will say as far as other USTs nothing comes close besides the Xiaomi C2 of course. It also depends on what you are watching. If you are just projecting a full black frame yea its no where near actual black but the moment there is some content on screen for me the black bars are black instead of still being noticeably grey on my previous UST projector and others I've tried. I do hope it can continue to get better with newer models as I'm a huge fan of UST over standard throw projectors.





zaselim said:


> i also have left top corner slightly less focused no matter what i do can't be properly focused but mine is way better than yours, at least mine's not blurry like that. it just looks a bit dull. i can even read very small text on the corner. and in pictures it looks like that its properly focused lol i don't know how my phone camera makes it more clear than it looks in person.
> here is my picture, think of it slightly less clearer than the picture in person.
> View attachment 3270884


Yeah wtf, mine is much worse than that. Heres another picture:









Didn‘t really think about returning it, but now after i‘ve seen yours….

It‘s just such a hassle


----------



## m0j0

Maqnvm7 said:


> Yeah wtf, mine is much worse than that. Heres another picture:
> View attachment 3270891
> 
> 
> Didn‘t really think about returning it, but now after i‘ve seen yours….
> 
> It‘s just such a hassle


Have you updated the firmware and gone in again to refocus?


----------



## Maqnvm7

m0j0 said:


> Have you updated the firmware and gone in again to refocus?


That picture was actually with the new firmware haha

I think it helped a bit, but as you can see text is still very blurry.


----------



## m0j0

Maqnvm7 said:


> That picture was actually with the new firmware haha
> 
> I think it helped a bit, but as you can see text is still very blurry.


You held it down and went all the way left for 10 seconds, then 3 clicks right?


----------



## Maqnvm7

m0j0 said:


> You held it down and went all the way left for 10 seconds, then 3 clicks right?


All the way to the left yes, but 3 clicks to the right makes it even worse for me.


----------



## m0j0

Maqnvm7 said:


> All the way to the left yes, but 3 clicks to the right makes it even worse for me.


Ok, good to know. My experience is all the way left gets center focus, but it takes a few clicks back to the right to get the corners to focus. I would keep resetting left, then try 1 click, 2, etc and keep going to see if the corners are affected at any point. Also, are you projecting a very large image, above 120 or 130 inches?


----------



## Maqnvm7

m0j0 said:


> Ok, good to know. My experience is all the way left gets center focus, but it takes a few clicks back to the right to get the corners to focus. I would keep resetting left, then try 1 click, 2, etc and keep going to see if the corners are affected at any point. Also, are you projecting a very large image, above 120 or 130 inches?


I will play around with it tomorrow and no it‘s only between 100-110“


----------



## Directtv999

Unable to install new fw says connection timedout, networks diagnostics shows no issue. Anyone faced this issue?


----------



## Directtv999

Directtv999 said:


> Unable to install new fw says connection timedout, networks diagnostics shows no issue. Anyone faced this issue?


Nvm able to update from my mobile hotspot my router fw is dropping connection maybe becausw of Chinese endpoints.


----------



## m0j0

Directtv999 said:


> Unable to install new fw says connection timedout, networks diagnostics shows no issue. Anyone faced this issue?


Haven't seen that one yet. Probably best to just try another day.

Edit: Just saw your post about the mobile hotspot working. Nice.


----------



## Directtv999

m0j0 said:


> Haven't seen that one yet. Probably best to just try another day.
> 
> Edit: Just saw your post about the mobile hotspot working. Nice.


Thanks @m0j0 can you help me with the picture settings, am not seeing custom settings with hdmi input I ony see view/office/night and silent and in advanced I see bright and dark how to calibrate with custom settings?


----------



## Tyronious

I have finally decided to go in on the T1. Thank you all for all the good information.

At this point what is the consensus for CN vs global (android version)? Wupro currently has only the CN version and a XY PET Crystal 100" I am getting a quote on.


----------



## jeff9n

antjes said:


> I can see in my unit the same green strips only visible in white screen, some of them from outside dust and I'm praying that no one is inside.
> It is mandatory to cover these USTs...
> 
> Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


Definitely cover the UST. Still I have to wipe dust of the len once in a while. Damn
dust everywhere.


----------



## slickrock

Confirming that my unit, like some of the recent others, has focus issue in the upper lefthand corner. Mine is a little worse than *Grazed*. I recall, way back, that Rama had a similar issue which is one of the reasons he unloaded it. I expect this is some kind of production defect in mirror optical path alignment, since others have reported uniform focus. Given all the things the T1 does well, and the friction one would deal with in a repair/replacement scenario, and for movie purposes, this may be worth dealing with for the time being. For gamers, and screen mirroring folks, YMMV.

Question is: Has anyone popped the cover and examined the mirror and optical path and observed the focussing mechanism? There might be something obvious to remedy this issue. Speaking of which, one can challenge the usefulness of the focussing mechanism as it stands: Basically the focus spot of the focus range is biased to the extreme left button setting. As such there is no way to know for sure of the upper left hand image area is out of focus (which a calibrated focus mechanism would address) or occluded somehow in the optical path. Moving the focus with right button basically puts the screen out of focus no matter what size you make the screen image. Is this how other UST projectors work in terms of focus adjustment (perhaps this because of my large screen size)? The L9P I had was a fixed focus unit for a 120" screen.


----------



## zaselim

Maqnvm7 said:


> Yeah wtf, mine is much worse than that. Heres another picture:
> View attachment 3270891
> 
> 
> Didn‘t really think about returning it, but now after i‘ve seen yours….
> 
> It‘s just such a hassle


Yeah, sorry man it is really bad. Does it look the same in person or much worse in person. Like mine, camera makes my left corner a bit more clear. Also mine's sometimes improves for some reason. Since i also have a little placement problem, i think it will improve a little when i will set it properly. Right now it is sitting on it's box which also bended abit and then i put some coins under it at the back lol. Also my screen has 3 wrinkles on that area as well. I think i will know it better after setting it properly on the table which i'll be getting custom made next month in the first week, i wanna make it right in my first try with the height of the table.


----------



## zaselim

Ok so guys, the seller at Wupro told me yesterday that if i send it back for replacement/repair then i will also have to pay for customs/duty in China with the shipping charges when i send it from here to China. What kind of warranty they are giving, i am comfused.


----------



## humax

slickrock said:


> The L9P I had was a fixed focus unit for a 120" screen.



Well, fixed focus lens will always be sharper, if used at the specified screen diagonal, no question about it. Variable zoom optics will never be as good. Just use these units up to 120" with something like a Vividstorm, if your aim is best obtainable focus uniformity/sharpness. If you get a lemon of a unit with bad focus issues, try to exchange it. Not much you can do beyond that. It is just the nature of the beast called ust projection. The rest of the features it offers more than make up for its deficiencies.


----------



## 3sprit

humax said:


> Makes you think twice, before messing around with such things


@spocky12 👈 🙂


----------



## zaselim

m0j0 said:


> A few pictures from last night (had to bump up contrast on Ghost in the Shell to 80 to get a decent brightness, otherwise, I was running at either 50 or 55 contrast).


Mojo, can you plz post time timestamp of the Ghost in the Shell photos you took, i have a image of 4k blu ray of it to watch it on the PC. I wanna see how it compare to your shots. 
Thanks.


----------



## ProjectionHead

humax said:


> Very good write up with all the pros and cons. FengOS 2.0 should provide some improvement with things like focus and red tint, but if there is to be any further 10-15% picture quality increase on things that can be improved, it will be through an experienced calibrator and a CMS. As for black levels, this thing is not a JVC and even JVC does not do OLED blacks. JVC is also only blue laser, not RGB like this one, so pick your poison. Since I don't see any significant DLP laser engine improvement other than ALPD in the near future, perhaps we will see massively better black levels, when carbon black screens come out.


Lol STILL waiting for my sample kit from Carbon Black 😫
They suggest a much brighter projector than any of the current USTs from what I recall, so I don’t know if their current surfaces will be an option


----------



## ProjectionHead

Maqnvm7 said:


> Another problem is the focus. No matter how I align/tilt/move the projector, the top left of the picture is always really blurry. Even with the focus adjustment in the settings. Now, to be fair this problem isn’t very noticeable when watching a movie BUT the blurriness isn’t the only problem. The bigger problem is that the top of the picture isn’t straight. From the middle to the left corner it takes a huge dive and in this case it sadly is really noticeable, particularly on movies with black bars. I still think it’s some kind of horizontal alignment problem, as the projector only has 3 feet (2 in the front and 1 in the middle/back), which makes no sense to me.
> View attachment 3270735


Lack of corner focus and top not being straight is same for me in both units I have here, even in the new fengOS firmware and on Android


----------



## m0j0

Directtv999 said:


> Thanks @m0j0 can you help me with the picture settings, am not seeing custom settings with hdmi input I ony see view/office/night and silent and in advanced I see bright and dark how to calibrate with custom settings?


This is because it's doing TV led Dolby Vision. When that is engaged, you lose the custom picture controls. That is one of the main reasons for getting an HDFury device, so you can do LLDV and still have all the picture controls.


----------



## m0j0

Ok, will post more details later, but made some more tweaks to the picture last night, especially with regard to color/saturation. Really desaturated the image this round. Not sure if I like it better or not, but it does look more natural/accurate, if that's what you're going for.


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 - from your pics, it looks like you do not have the focus or the top not being straight issues. Same for other folks. Something different in how the projectors are being setup?


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> Ok, will post more details later, but made some more tweaks to the picture last night, especially with regard to color/saturation. Really desaturated the image this round. Not sure if I like it better or not, but it does look more natural/accurate, if that's what you're going for.


I’ll take door number one with the more saturated look.


----------



## Brajesh

Or saturation smack in between this and what you've previously had .


----------



## Maqnvm7

ProjectionHead said:


> Lack of corner focus and top not being straight is same for me in both units I have here, even in the new fengOS firmware and on Android


Interesting, you‘re the only other person so far I‘ve seen mention the top not being straight.


----------



## m0j0

Brajesh said:


> Or saturation smack in between this and what you've previously had .


There’s lots of room for adjustment for sure. These are the settings I needed to use in order to get the rainbow unicorn picture to come out correct with my camera, so blame @lattiboy.


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> m0j0 - from your pics, it looks like you do not have the focus or the top not being straight issues. Same for other folks. Something different in how the projectors are being setup?


I have a good, uniform focus. Before the firmware update, some of the corners were a bit soft, but with 2.0, the controls got a bit better for me and I was able to dial it in better on the corners. Truthfully, my screen is not perfectly flat on the wall, so maybe that is working to my benefit in this case, not sure.


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> Ok, will post more details later, but made some more tweaks to the picture last night, especially with regard to color/saturation. Really desaturated the image this round. Not sure if I like it better or not, but it does look more natural/accurate, if that's what you're going for.


Greens are definitely less exaggerated, but I agree with others--somewhere in between these and previous ones would be nice.


----------



## zoomx2

Reported to [email protected] none of the modes applied when I start the T1. New firmware is worse than beta version.


----------



## m0j0

zoomx2 said:


> Reported to [email protected] none of the modes applied when I start the T1. New firmware is worse than beta version.
> View attachment 3271139


Maybe try a factory reset?


----------



## okvcos

m0j0 said:


> Ok, will post more details later, but made some more tweaks to the picture last night, especially with regard to color/saturation. Really desaturated the image this round. Not sure if I like it better or not, but it does look more natural/accurate, if that's what you're going for.


Hello m0j0 , i await the new settings.
For me they are a reference. even if I have the Xiaomi C2, but in video chain with Vertex2 and LLDV ( Z9X ) input, the result does not change .


----------



## zoomx2

m0j0 said:


> Maybe try a factory reset?


Funny part is this default mode look so good almost perfect for me watching soccer. I’m not sure it is a Display mode or not. Does it happen to anyone?


----------



## ACE844

Took some rough and dirty quick snapshots of the EPL 4k now sports broadcast (2160/50) with an S21 Ultra camera in pro mode. All settings and everything auto except white balance which was set to D65. Just the shield pro to the T1 (all T1 processing off , image to custom @MoJo settings brightness to the office) with Shield pro set with AI-enhanced on and custom display res forced to 2160/60 YUV 422 12 bit rec 2020 and HDR-ready. The right side of the screen is still flawed from the mickey mouse install and the photographer sucks. All motion was without any motion blur or judder and buttery smooth. no RBE noticed. I'm liking this unit more every day. Now just need to add an appropriate screen and get my VROOM
in hand.


----------



## m0j0

A few more pics from last night's testing. I thought the picture on screen looked a lot better than what is coming out in photos. Black levels were really good, and when it was both a dark scene and there was red involved (in the Incredibles 2), it was really nice looking. I couldn't capture those scenes on camera though as they were too dark to get a good result.


----------



## m0j0

Here's the settings I tested with last night:
Brightness Mode: Night Mode
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 49
Contrast: 52
Saturation: 30
Sharpness: 50
Tone: 47
Color: Custom
Red: 1153
Green: 958
Blue: 867


----------



## ACE844

Sicario same setup with some ambient light from the background. Photos with note 9 default camera app, no settings changed from the defaults.


----------



## slickrock

humax said:


> Well, fixed focus lens will always be sharper, if used at the specified screen diagonal, no question about it. Variable zoom optics will never be as good. Just use these units up to 120" with something like a Vividstorm, if your aim is best obtainable focus uniformity/sharpness. If you get a lemon of a unit with bad focus issues, try to exchange it. Not much you can do beyond that. It is just the nature of the beast called ust projection. The rest of the features it offers more than make up for its deficiencies.


For me, the focus issue is more of a curiosity worth investigating than any kind of disqualifier. For movies, of which the focus issue is not perceptible, is my primary use case. In getting a CN T1 from Alibaba, I pretty much knew it would be one way trip, so I'm pretty glad it turned out overall as good as it did. Also, I'm getting good uniformity at the top of the screen.

Totally agree with you regarding fixed focus comment. That's why I'm interested in examining the mechanical plane of the optical path and how well the final mirror is fastened to the chassis. Heck, I already removed the top ND filter... might get brave enough to take it a step further. Is there a service manual floating around there for the T1 (or similar model from the OEM)?


----------



## m0j0

zaselim said:


> Mojo, can you plz post time timestamp of the Ghost in the Shell photos you took, i have a image of 4k blu ray of it to watch it on the PC. I wanna see how it compare to your shots.
> Thanks.


Sorry, I don't have timestamps. I usually just start playing a movie and take pictures if/when I see a scene that looks interesting. Some shows I go back to the same scene a lot, but most I just flip through.


----------



## zoomx2

ACE844 said:


> Took some rough and dirty quick snapshots of the EPL 4k now sports broadcast (2160/50) with an S21 Ultra camera in pro mode. All settings and everything auto except white balance which was set to D65. Just the shield pro to the T1 (all T1 processing off , image to custom @MoJo settings brightness to the office) with Shield pro set with AI-enhanced on and custom display res forced to 2160/60 YUV 422 12 bit rec 2020 and HDR-ready. The right side of the screen is still flawed from the mickey mouse install and the photographer sucks. All motion was without any motion blur or judder and buttery smooth. no RBE noticed. I'm liking this unit more every day. Now just need to add an appropriate screen and get my VROOM
> in hand.


I watch this game as well using DAZN app which is only 1080p on Firestick4K max directly to T1. I see totally different pictures than yours. You may need to change the settings or maybe the screen. Try to use View brightness and Game mode next time without force DV ON using Shield Pro.


----------



## JereyWolf

Maqnvm7 said:


> Interesting, you‘re the only other person so far I‘ve seen mention the top not being straight.


Mine is actually like this too. No amount physical leveling got my picture straight. If the top was straight, then the sides were off. It's almost as if the entire optical unit is crooked by a degree. I had two previous USTs on the same stand and screen and this was not an issue for me then. I just work around it on the t1 with keystone. Annoying, but far from a deal breaker.


----------



## Maqnvm7

JereyWolf said:


> Mine is actually like this too. No amount physical leveling got my picture straight. If the top was straight, then the sides were off. It's almost as if the entire optical unit is crooked by a degree. I had two previous USTs on the same stand and screen and this was not an issue for me then. I just work around it on the t1 with keystone. Annoying, but far from a deal breaker.


Okay good to know and yeah it‘s hardly an issue.


----------



## Ricoflashback

JereyWolf said:


> Mine is actually like this too. No amount physical leveling got my picture straight. If the top was straight, then the sides were off. It's almost as if the entire optical unit is crooked by a degree. I had two previous USTs on the same stand and screen and this was not an issue for me then. I just work around it on the t1 with keystone. Annoying, but far from a deal breaker.


I’ve always read that you should never use keystone adjustments. But sometimes it’s necessary. I’ve used it on other projectors without any focus, clarity or color issues. If you have a black velvet wrapped bezel, that can help with any overscan issues. Without any vertical or horizontal shift, UST PJ’s are always challenging to get just right.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Maqnvm7 said:


> Interesting, you‘re the only other person so far I‘ve seen mention the top not being straight.


Yeah, it bows down on both sides and is higher in middle. It’s not very dramatic, but I def notice it.


----------



## ACE844

zoomx2 said:


> I watch this game as well using DAZN app which is only 1080p on Firestick4K max directly to T1. I see totally different pictures than yours. You may need to change the settings or maybe the screen. Try to use View brightness and Game mode next time without forcing DV ON using Shield Pro.


Please elaborate?


----------



## donw

ProjectionHead said:


> Yeah, it bows down on both sides and is higher in middle. It’s not very dramatic, but I def notice it.


Mine bows out on each side a little, kind like a balloon


----------



## driege

Not sure if this is what other people are referring to, but it was completely impossible to get the picture in the frame without keystone correction. I previously used a little bit of keystone correction with my old vava on the same stand/screen, but it was pretty minor. This is what it looks like pre-keystone correction. 

Fwiw, I don't notice any obvious issues as a result of this. But it makes me wonder if the whole thing is pretty crooked.


----------



## jorgemurillo2012

ProjectionHead said:


> Lol STILL waiting for my sample kit from Carbon Black 😫
> They suggest a much brighter projector than any of the current USTs from what I recall, so I don’t know if their current surfaces will be an option


Yea I emailed them also they require 5000 lumens minimum... so I say thank you but no thank you lol it won't work lol


----------



## JereyWolf

driege said:


> Not sure if this is what other people are referring to, but it was completely impossible to get the picture in the frame without keystone correction. I previously used a little bit of keystone correction with my old vava on the same stand/screen, but it was pretty minor. This is what it looks like pre-keystone correction.
> 
> Fwiw, I don't notice any obvious issues as a result of this. But it makes me wonder if the whole thing is pretty crooked.
> View attachment 3271386


Kind of hard to say exactly from the photo if my has the same proble...but for me, it was not possible to get the two sides parallel to my screen. When one side was completely straight, the other would have about 1/2" of taper...and one corner of my top was always higher.


----------



## JackB

JereyWolf said:


> Kind of hard to say exactly from the photo if my has the same proble...but for me, it was not possible to get the two sides parallel to my screen. When one side was completely straight, the other would have about 1/2" of taper...and one corner of my top was always higher.


For those with alignment problems I suggest downloading the Bomaker Polaris User Manual. It has several pages in it with diagrams and instructions on how to correct various alignment issues. It was extremely helpful in setting up the Polaris. The concept should work to a degree with the T1 although the Polaris has four adjustment feet vs the three on the T1. If they are available it seems like a good idea to purchase two adjustable feet and glue them to the rear corners.


----------



## Maqnvm7

JereyWolf said:


> Kind of hard to say exactly from the photo if my has the same proble...but for me, it was not possible to get the two sides parallel to my screen. When one side was completely straight, the other would have about 1/2" of taper...and one corner of my top was always higher.


Yep my problem was exactly the same. Drove me crazy lol


----------



## driege

JereyWolf said:


> Kind of hard to say exactly from the photo if my has the same proble...but for me, it was not possible to get the two sides parallel to my screen. When one side was completely straight, the other would have about 1/2" of taper...and one corner of my top was always higher.


Yeah that's what it was like


----------



## spocky12

For those interested, I just released Projectivy Launcher the successor of ProjecTivy Tools. It's a full launcher, not solely dedicated to Xiaomi projectors (it can be used on the Shield or any other Android Tv box). Hopefully you'll find it useful.
Some of you will probably directly head to the "mediatek settings" shortcut. For better usability, go to Projectivy settings and check "use the internal tv view", which will not use FengOs Tv View when clicking on the HDMI shortcuts, but one developped for Projectivy. Then the menu button will launch the mediatek settings. The only drawback is that CEC won't be enabled (your projector remote won't pilot your connected devices or wake them up)(it's an Android limitation, CEC can only be used by system apps). This will give you advanced display configurationas well as a few other things such as WOL (and yes, DV will work with MEMC there).
If you still want to use the stock Tv View and get direct access to the mediatek settings, you'll probably need "Button Mapper" to launch this intent : "mediatek.tvsetting.factory.intent.action.MainmenuActivity" from this package "mediatek.factorymenu.ui".
Calibration patterns (SDR, HDR, DV) are also available in the display settings section (if you're using an external android tv box, you probably want to install the app here as well, in order to display them while calibrating). As of now, you can't create custom display profiles from Projectivy, but it _might_ be possible in the future (not sure yet, but it seems more accessible than on the latest amlogic devices).


----------



## zaselim

m0j0 said:


> Sorry, I don't have timestamps. I usually just start playing a movie and take pictures if/when I see a scene that looks interesting. Some shows I go back to the same scene a lot, but most I just flip through.


No problem, Thanks.


----------



## JereyWolf

spocky12 said:


> For those interested, I just released Projectivy Launcher the successor of ProjecTivy Tools. It's a full launcher, not solely dedicated to Xiaomi projectors (it can be used on the Shield or any other Android Tv box). Hopefully you'll find it useful.
> Some of you will probably directly head to the "mediatek settings" shortcut. For better usability, go to Projectivy settings and check "use the internal tv view", which will not use FengOs Tv View when clicking on the HDMI shortcuts, but one developped for Projectivy. Then the menu button will launch the mediatek settings. The only drawback is that CEC won't be enabled (your projector remote won't pilot your connected devices or wake them up)(it's an Android limitation, CEC can only be used by system apps). This will give you advanced display configurationas well as a few other things such as WOL (and yes, DV will work with MEMC there).
> If you still want to use the stock Tv View and get direct access to the mediatek settings, you'll probably need "Button Mapper" to launch this intent : "mediatek.tvsetting.factory.intent.action.MainmenuActivity" from this package "mediatek.factorymenu.ui".
> Calibration patterns (SDR, HDR, DV) are also available in the display settings section (if you're using an external android tv box, you probably want to install the app here as well, in order to display them while calibrating). As of now, you can't create custom display profiles from Projectivy, but it _might_ be possible in the future (not sure yet, but it seems more accessible than on the latest amlogic devices).


We're all lucky to have you here, Thank you!


----------



## rjyap

spocky12 said:


> For those interested, I just released Projectivy Launcher the successor of ProjecTivy Tools. It's a full launcher, not solely dedicated to Xiaomi projectors (it can be used on the Shield or any other Android Tv box). Hopefully you'll find it useful.
> Some of you will probably directly head to the "mediatek settings" shortcut. For better usability, go to Projectivy settings and check "use the internal tv view", which will not use FengOs Tv View when clicking on the HDMI shortcuts, but one developped for Projectivy. Then the menu button will launch the mediatek settings. The only drawback is that CEC won't be enabled (your projector remote won't pilot your connected devices or wake them up)(it's an Android limitation, CEC can only be used by system apps). This will give you advanced display configurationas well as a few other things such as WOL (and yes, DV will work with MEMC there).
> If you still want to use the stock Tv View and get direct access to the mediatek settings, you'll probably need "Button Mapper" to launch this intent : "mediatek.tvsetting.factory.intent.action.MainmenuActivity" from this package "mediatek.factorymenu.ui".
> Calibration patterns (SDR, HDR, DV) are also available in the display settings section (if you're using an external android tv box, you probably want to install the app here as well, in order to display them while calibrating). As of now, you can't create custom display profiles from Projectivy, but it _might_ be possible in the future (not sure yet, but it seems more accessible than on the latest amlogic devices).


Thanks for your effort. Will look into it and if it can expose 11 step greyscale and CMS that would be superb.


----------



## rjyap

Looks like ver 2.0 improve my top left corner focus dramatically. I try pushing the arrow key all the way to left and need to click almost 8-10 times to the right to get it in focus. You can clearly see that each click will affect the sharpness. I’m using 114” screen and now all four corners sharpness are great.


----------



## rjyap

Corner to corner sharpness.


----------



## Maqnvm7

rjyap said:


> Corner to corner sharpness.
> View attachment 3271545
> 
> View attachment 3271546


Wow, I’m jealous. Whole thing feels kind of like a lottery.


----------



## rjyap

This photo taken using MadVR HDR output with Rec2020 colorspace. Looks like HDR is usable MadVR using ver 2.0 firmware. Color for red and blue is deeper compare to the photo due to wide color space. Just imagine more saturated and pop color. Skin tone would be quite close to the photo.


----------



## gen_x

Maqnvm7 said:


> Wow, I’m jealous. Whole thing feels kind of like a lottery.


With no real warranty hopefully we can identify what is the issue ourselves. They are certainly enough examples out there.


----------



## rjyap

Here’s the photo comparing dynamic contrast on vs off. Dynamic black ON will look darker but crush shadow details. The photo are overexpose to show the difference in shadow detail.


----------



## ProjectionHead

rjyap said:


> Corner to corner sharpness.
> View attachment 3271545
> 
> View attachment 3271546


I see the same bowing in the top with both units I have here as well.

looking at some of @m0j0 ‘s pics in this recent post #4816








Formovie Fengmi T1


m0j0 - from your pics, it looks like you do not have the focus or the top not being straight issues. Same for other folks. Something different in how the projectors are being setup?




www.avsforum.com




It looks like his image is bowing in opposite direction with the top corners being higher than the center.

is this a result of focus, or just the luck of draw with lens?


----------



## Ricoflashback

rjyap said:


> Here’s the photo comparing dynamic contrast on vs off. Dynamic black ON will look darker but crush shadow details. The photo are overexpose to show the difference in shadow detail.
> 
> 
> View attachment 3271581
> 
> View attachment 3271580


Anyway to compensate with Dynamic Contrast on or always leave off? Same for Vertex 2 settings?


----------



## m0j0

ProjectionHead said:


> I see the same bowing in the top with both units I have here as well.
> 
> looking at some of @m0j0 ‘s pics in this recent post #4816
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Formovie Fengmi T1
> 
> 
> m0j0 - from your pics, it looks like you do not have the focus or the top not being straight issues. Same for other folks. Something different in how the projectors are being setup?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like his image is bowing in opposite direction with the top corners being higher than the center.
> 
> is this a result of focus, or just the luck of draw with lens?


Sometimes when I take pictures I don't have the camera straight, so I crop the image but the top or bottom black bars look skewed or warped or whatever, but it's just an issue with the camera man, not the projector...


----------



## rjyap

ProjectionHead said:


> I see the same bowing in the top with both units I have here as well.
> 
> looking at some of @m0j0 ‘s pics in this recent post #4816
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Formovie Fengmi T1
> 
> 
> m0j0 - from your pics, it looks like you do not have the focus or the top not being straight issues. Same for other folks. Something different in how the projectors are being setup?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like his image is bowing in opposite direction with the top corners being higher than the center.
> 
> is this a result of focus, or just the luck of draw with lens?


I suspect UST projector is very sensitive to perfectly flat surface for best focus. The top bowing is visible with test pattern but actual content is not really visible especially wide screen format.


----------



## ProjectionHead

rjyap said:


> I suspect UST projector is very sensitive to perfectly flat surface for best focus. The top bowing is visible with test pattern but actual content is not really visible especially wide screen format.


They are very sensitive for flat surface, but the bowing issue I have on t1/theater is present on same screen that other USTs don’t have issue with. I’ll update with some pics later and see if focus adjustments alleviate it in any way


----------



## gen_x

ProjectionHead said:


> They are very sensitive for flat surface, but the bowing issue I have on t1/theater is present on same screen that other USTs don’t have issue with. I’ll update with some pics later and see if focus adjustments alleviate it in any way


Fyi I also have similar issue. The bowing that I have is with top corners lower than the middle. Tried on screen and various location on walls as well. The keystone adjustments could potentially address but issue is there. The firmware did not improve the focus issue that I have (top left corner)


----------



## rjyap

Ricoflashback said:


> Anyway to compensate with Dynamic Contrast on or always leave off? Same for Vertex 2 settings?


I’m not using vertex 2 as MadVR is dynamic tone mapping apps which is use by MadVR envy. Just leave dynamic contrast off and use MadVR to fine tune the shadow detail.


----------



## ACE844

spocky12 said:


> For those interested, I just released Projectivy Launcher the successor of ProjecTivy Tools. It's a full launcher, not solely dedicated to Xiaomi projectors (it can be used on the Shield or any other Android Tv box). Hopefully you'll find it useful.
> Some of you will probably directly head to the "mediatek settings" shortcut. For better usability, go to Projectivy settings and check "use the internal tv view", which will not use FengOs Tv View when clicking on the HDMI shortcuts, but one developped for Projectivy. Then the menu button will launch the mediatek settings. The only drawback is that CEC won't be enabled (your projector remote won't pilot your connected devices or wake them up)(it's an Android limitation, CEC can only be used by system apps). This will give you advanced display configurationas well as a few other things such as WOL (and yes, DV will work with MEMC there).
> If you still want to use the stock Tv View and get direct access to the mediatek settings, you'll probably need "Button Mapper" to launch this intent : "mediatek.tvsetting.factory.intent.action.MainmenuActivity" from this package "mediatek.factorymenu.ui".
> Calibration patterns (SDR, HDR, DV) are also available in the display settings section (if you're using an external android tv box, you probably want to install the app here as well, in order to display them while calibrating). As of now, you can't create custom display profiles from Projectivy, but it _might_ be possible in the future (not sure yet, but it seems more accessible than on the latest amlogic devices).


What's your preferred method for getting root on this device?


----------



## rjyap

gen_x said:


> Fyi I also have similar issue. The bowing that I have is with top corners lower than the middle. Tried on screen and various location on walls as well. The keystone adjustments could potentially address but issue is there. The firmware did not improve the focus issue that I have (top left corner)


what screen are u using? Fixed or retractable?If retractable, can u try to push the top left corner front and back to see if it’s in focus? Could be the screen is not perfectly 90 degrees to the projector.


----------



## xrayg1971

ProFragger said:


> Thanks friend. May I ask why you're so convinced? Have you used both? Does VAVA come in a 120"?


vava does come in 120 but was not in stock ... im ONLY convinced for me ..as i did not want to sped another 1500 on a screen so i got the best i could afford .. if i run across a deal on a pet crystal 120 in the future i will jump on it though ..


----------



## ProFragger

xrayg1971 said:


> vava does come in 120 but was not in stock ... im ONLY convinced for me ..as i did not want to sped another 1500 on a screen so i got the best i could afford .. if i run across a deal on a pet crystal 120 in the future i will jump on it though ..


Thank you, this is helpful!


----------



## m0j0

Looking for a happy medium on saturation/color, I went with these settings for testing last night:

Brightness Mode: Night Mode
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 49
Contrast: 53
Saturation: 38
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 52
Color: Custom
Red: 1016
Green: 996
Blue: 907


----------



## gen_x

rjyap said:


> what screen are u using? Fixed or retractable?If retractable, can u try to push the top left corner front and back to see if it’s in focus? Could be the screen is not perfectly 90 degrees to the projector.


I have a fixed screen but will try further and see if the screen is exactly in the corners as center thanks.


----------



## zoomx2

spocky12 said:


> For those interested, I just released Projectivy Launcher the successor of ProjecTivy Tools. It's a full launcher, not solely dedicated to Xiaomi projectors (it can be used on the Shield or any other Android Tv box). Hopefully you'll find it useful.
> Some of you will probably directly head to the "mediatek settings" shortcut. For better usability, go to Projectivy settings and check "use the internal tv view", which will not use FengOs Tv View when clicking on the HDMI shortcuts, but one developped for Projectivy. Then the menu button will launch the mediatek settings. The only drawback is that CEC won't be enabled (your projector remote won't pilot your connected devices or wake them up)(it's an Android limitation, CEC can only be used by system apps). This will give you advanced display configurationas well as a few other things such as WOL (and yes, DV will work with MEMC there).
> If you still want to use the stock Tv View and get direct access to the mediatek settings, you'll probably need "Button Mapper" to launch this intent : "mediatek.tvsetting.factory.intent.action.MainmenuActivity" from this package "mediatek.factorymenu.ui".
> Calibration patterns (SDR, HDR, DV) are also available in the display settings section (if you're using an external android tv box, you probably want to install the app here as well, in order to display them while calibrating). As of now, you can't create custom display profiles from Projectivy, but it _might_ be possible in the future (not sure yet, but it seems more accessible than on the latest amlogic devices).





spocky12 said:


> For those interested, I just released Projectivy Launcher the successor of ProjecTivy Tools. It's a full launcher, not solely dedicated to Xiaomi projectors (it can be used on the Shield or any other Android Tv box). Hopefully you'll find it useful.
> Some of you will probably directly head to the "mediatek settings" shortcut. For better usability, go to Projectivy settings and check "use the internal tv view", which will not use FengOs Tv View when clicking on the HDMI shortcuts, but one developped for Projectivy. Then the menu button will launch the mediatek settings. The only drawback is that CEC won't be enabled (your projector remote won't pilot your connected devices or wake them up)(it's an Android limitation, CEC can only be used by system apps). This will give you advanced display configurationas well as a few other things such as WOL (and yes, DV will work with MEMC there).
> If you still want to use the stock Tv View and get direct access to the mediatek settings, you'll probably need "Button Mapper" to launch this intent : "mediatek.tvsetting.factory.intent.action.MainmenuActivity" from this package "mediatek.factorymenu.ui".
> Calibration patterns (SDR, HDR, DV) are also available in the display settings section (if you're using an external android tv box, you probably want to install the app here as well, in order to display them while calibrating). As of now, you can't create custom display profiles from Projectivy, but it _might_ be possible in the future (not sure yet, but it seems more accessible than on the latest amlogic devices).


Thank you Spocky, install the launcher in T1 last night. Anyway to mapped button Home, and install English voice assistants?


----------



## eezrider

donw said:


> Mine bows out on each side a little, kind like a balloon


Mine too. Easily corrected with the fine keystone adjustment with no apparent impact on sharpness/resolution.


----------



## m0j0

Some pics with last nights settings


----------



## spocky12

ACE844 said:


> What's your preferred method for getting root on this device?


There's no root method available for this device yet. I'm waiting for a full firmware to be available before low level hacking. Don't want a 2200€ brick 

Just in case someone wonders, there's no risk in installing Projectivy, which is a totally "standard" app. Bricks mentionned on the xda thread were all linked to flashing a wrong firmware (that said, I never touched any of the "mediatek advanced setting" I didn't understand, so of course, take caution when modifiying some of these parameters).


----------



## ACE844

Spent a little time with some test color and calibration patterns. Pictures are with Samsung note 9 default all. There is no major color push any longer visible in person. Is this better looking to the groups eyes??


----------



## m0j0

ACE844 said:


> Spent a little time with some test color and calibration patterns. Pictures are with Samsung note 9 default all. There is no major color push any longer visible in person. Is this better looking to the groups eyes??


Colors look good!


----------



## zaselim

I got a respone from formovie today and they told me that you can't change rgb gain in Office Mode, it is by default set by the company. You can only change the sliders in other modes(View, Night and Silent).


----------



## Joered101

ACE844 said:


> Spent a little time with some test color and calibration patterns. Pictures are with Samsung note 9 default all. There is no major color push any longer visible in person. Is this better looking to the groups eyes??


What’s the line down the right of centre side I see in all the photos? Is that on the projector or the camera?


----------



## ACE844

Joered101 said:


> What’s the line down the right of centre side I see in all the photos? Is that on the projector or the camera?


It's a picture behind the screen. The screen is temporary and one sheet of matte spandex is configured as an outdoor use screen. As there isn't a black piece behind it you can sometimes see that photo on the wall behind it. A proper screen is going to be added asap.


----------



## donw

eezrider said:


> Mine too. Easily corrected with the fine keystone adjustment with no apparent impact on sharpness/resolution.


Yep, I used keystone to fix it. I looks pretty good.


----------



## donw

spocky12 said:


> There's no root method available for this device yet. I'm waiting for a full firmware to be available before low level hacking. Don't want a 2200€ brick
> 
> Just in case someone wonders, there's no risk in installing Projectivy, which is a totally "standard" app. Bricks mentionned on the xda thread were all linked to flashing a wrong firmware (that said, I never touched any of the "mediatek advanced setting" I didn't understand, so of course, take caution when modifiying some of these parameters).


If running an Android device for all streaming, could one install Projectivy on it instead of the projector and get the same results? Thinking it would be less risk on a less expensive device.


----------



## ACE844

spocky12 said:


> There's no root method available for this device yet. I'm waiting for a full firmware to be available before low level hacking. Don't want a 2200€ brick
> 
> Just in case someone wonders, there's no risk in installing Projectivy, which is a totally "standard" app. Bricks mentionned on the xda thread were all linked to flashing a wrong firmware (that said, I never touched any of the "mediatek advanced setting" I didn't understand, so of course, take caution when modifiying some of these parameters).


I sideloaded your app and it is a major step up from the stock experience. I did see access to some advanced picture and calibration settings in the menus but did not manipulate them as I don't have a spectrometer on hand. In looking through the menus some of the more advanced calibrators here might be interested to try it out. One thing I noted of which was interesting is that despite having manipulated the RGB and a few other stetings previously in theUI the RGB in the engineering and other advanced setting menus were all set for equivalent values. This makes me wonder if the picture colors and RGB manipulation most are seeing is software or graphics card-based.


----------



## t333

since you guys are all taking about the top not straight, i also have same issue, and i was thinking this has to do something with my tv stand which is not leveled correctly in my case, so i was using some support on rear end of projector to level it..but whatever i tried it was not100% straight , middle was always little up, so i moved the projector more closer so middle top part falls on frame velvet and tried some key stone adjustment and now its not noticed anymore...let me know if you guys find something.


----------



## humax

ACE844 said:


> I sideloaded your app and it is a major step up from the stock experience. I did see access to some advanced picture and calibration settings in the menus but did not manipulate them as I don't have a spectrometer on hand. In looking through the menus some of the more advanced calibrators here might be interested to try it out.



So you are saying there is a hidden CMS similar to the international version hidden in the Chinese version's service menu? If so, it is great news. Can you share what extra calibration options there are in comparison to the normal menu? TIA!


----------



## eezrider

ACE844 said:


> Spent a little time with some test color and calibration patterns. Pictures are with Samsung note 9 default all. There is no major color push any longer visible in person. Is this better looking to the groups eyes??


Looks good. What configuration and settings did you use? Are you using an HD Fury device?


----------



## ACE844

humax said:


> So you are saying there is a hidden CMS similar to the international version hidden in the Chinese version's service menu? If so, it is great news. Can you share what extra calibration options there are in comparison to the normal menu? TIA!


There are extra options similar to The international version and I will take some photos for you tonight. The caveat is of course I haven't manipulated them so I have no idea how functional they are in reality.


----------



## ACE844

eezrider said:


> Looks good. What configuration and settings did you use? Are you using an HD Fury device?


I used the forum zip of the various calibration MP4's and color focus patterns. NO HDFury used at all yet. Setup is
NVIDIA Shield pro with force 2160/60, 422, 12 bit BT2020 DV and HDR ready.--->Kinivio 550BN HDMI matrix switch with 2.1 cables all around--> T1


----------



## driege

spocky12 said:


> There's no root method available for this device yet. I'm waiting for a full firmware to be available before low level hacking. Don't want a 2200€ brick
> 
> Just in case someone wonders, there's no risk in installing Projectivy, which is a totally "standard" app. Bricks mentionned on the xda thread were all linked to flashing a wrong firmware (that said, I never touched any of the "mediatek advanced setting" I didn't understand, so of course, take caution when modifiying some of these parameters).


Can you give simple instructions for installing Projectivy, or at least point me to which part of that XDA post to look at? I was overwhelmed with the amount of information that didn't seem like it applies to this projector. Do I just download a file to a flash drive, extract it, then plug it into the projector?


----------



## xuon

Where is the best place to buy? If shipping to USA?


----------



## ACE844

driege said:


> Can you give simple instructions for installing Projectivy, or at least point me to which part of that XDA post to look at? I was overwhelmed with the amount of information that didn't seem like it applies to this projector. Do I just download a file to a flash drive, extract it, then plug it into the projector?


You can download the apk from here: [APP][ANDROID TV] ProjecTivy Launcher
put it on a thumb drive and then click on it when the thumb drive is plugged into the T1.It may prompt a security warning, allow the install and then you're off to the races.
@spocky12 can you clarify what's available in the premium version?


----------



## zoomx2

I installed it last night play around it a bit. Disable all Chinese default apps. Use Android settings update the time zone no more wrong time and date finally. Went in the Meidatek settings don’t know how to change it yet lol


----------



## gen_x

gen_x said:


> I have a fixed screen but will try further and see if the screen is exactly in the corners as center thanks.





gen_x said:


> I have a fixed screen but will try further and see if the screen is exactly in the corners as center thanks.


Wow it was the corners of my fixed screen was a little further out from the wall. Thanks for the tip. Just a tiny bit but made a difference. Focus issue on top left remains. Now to figure that out..


----------



## xrayg1971

m0j0 said:


> Looking for a happy medium on saturation/color, I went with these settings for testing last night:
> 
> Brightness Mode: Night Mode
> Image Parameters: Custom
> Brightness: 49
> Contrast: 53
> Saturation: 38
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 52
> Color: Custom
> Red: 1016
> Green: 996
> Blue: 907


this actually looks really good .. very natural ... nothing overly saturated


----------



## ACE844

humax said:


> So you are saying there is a hidden CMS similar to the international version hidden in the Chinese version's service menu? If so, it is great news. Can you share what extra calibration options there are in comparison to the normal menu? TIA!


There are about 2 dozen or so sub-menus including audio ( I don't have the gear or knowhow to go tweaking there maybe someone else can help) and atmos tweaks you could make. I got you photos of a number of the menus and submenus the amount of config is just insane and 2 sets of engineering menus are in Chinese only. I didn't get into translating them and playing around but included an example for you. This should give you a good grasp for the depth and width of what's possible with the tivy tools. I bet @markswift2003,@DaveHarper.594, @ProjectionHead @claw Gregory, and many others here could do some amazing things with this!


----------



## esegan

*ACE844*
Именно вы изучали сервисное меню, но оно сложное для обычного пользователя, неудобное из-за множества непонятных настроек.
Прежде всего, вам нужно найти скрытые настройки самого android, такие как международная версия T1. Удалось ли вам найти расширенные настройки самого android на черном фоне, как на фотографии?
Если нет, вы можете попробовать установить ATV Launcher и открыть в нем настройки Android. Многие пишут, что ATV launcher удобнее.
1 сообщение на форуме, откройте 2 spoler и есть инструкции по установке ATV launcher, удалению китайских приложений, установке правильных приложений, изменению языка и так далее.





Formoive Fengmi R1 на FengOS [Android] - 4PDA


Formoive Fengmi R1 на FengOS [Android], [Проектор][FullHD][DLP][Laser]




4pda.to


----------



## humax

ACE844 said:


> I didn't get into translating them and playing around but included an example for you. This should give you a good grasp for the depth and width of what's possible with the tivy tools. I bet @markswift2003,@DaveHarper.594, @ProjectionHead @claw Gregory, and many others here could do some amazing things with this!



Thank you for posting these. You went above and beyond with this post. However, if I am to be honest what I see is settings I would not want to tamper with. Nothing like the in-menu CMS of the global version. Unless there is another set of hidden settings in the service menu or someone manages to successfully flash the Chinese version with an international rom, I don't see any other option to properly calibrate the current T1 version through an CMS.


----------



## rjyap

Just check out projectivity tools. Looks like it's possible to set the basic adjustment (contrast, brightness etc), color temp and 2 point greyscale adjustment for each picture mode including game mode. As for the chinese service menu, it's mostly internal test pattern and some self test (such as fan temperature testing) and not much use for color adjustment. No CMS so far. This is a major step as we no longer need multiple custom mode as each profile can be change.


----------



## Maqnvm7

rjyap said:


> Just check out projectivity tools. Looks like it's possible to set the basic adjustment (contrast, brightness etc), color temp and 2 point greyscale adjustment for each picture mode including game mode. As for the chinese service menu, it's mostly internal test pattern and some self test (such as fan temperature testing) and not much use for color adjustment. No CMS so far. This is a major step as we no longer need multiple custom mode as each profile can be change.


I wonder if it‘s possible to change those basic settings with Dolby Vision enabled.


----------



## rjyap

Maqnvm7 said:


> I wonder if it‘s possible to change those basic settings with Dolby Vision enabled.


Yes. For both bright and dark mode.


----------



## Maqnvm7

rjyap said:


> Yes. For both bright and dark mode.


Woah that could be a good HDFury alternative.


----------



## rjyap

Here’s the baseline for HDR mode using 1000 nits test pattern without crushing black and white. Brightness 49 and contrast 60 (I could push it to 65 for higher white but I feel the top end gradient is not smooth). This is using MadVR HDR output. The photo below somehow crush blue highlights but it’s visible on the projector. Could be phone camera limit.
Take note how sharp is the T1 on small text without CA.


----------



## Maqnvm7

rjyap said:


> Here’s the baseline for HDR mode using 1000 nits test pattern without crushing black and white. Brightness 49 and contrast 60 (I could push it to 65 for higher white but I feel the top end gradient is not smooth). This is using MadVR HDR output. The photo below somehow crush blue highlights but it’s visible on the projector. Could be phone camera limit.
> Take note how sharp is the T1 on small text without CA.
> View attachment 3272126


Did you do anything to imporve sharpness?


----------



## rjyap

Maqnvm7 said:


> Did you do anything to imporve sharpness?


After upgrading to firmware 2.0, just redo the focus adjustment and I manage to get corner to corner sharpness.


----------



## spocky12

donw said:


> If running an Android device for all streaming, could one install Projectivy on it instead of the projector and get the same results? Thinking it would be less risk on a less expensive device.


It depends on your expectations. I use Projectivy on my Nvidia Shield because I don't like the Google Tv launcher (nor do I use its channel suggestions). It's just a lightweight launcher I can fit to my taste. I also use it to display the calibration patterns on the Shield to help with calibration (it should not be necessary anymore when Projectivy can directly manage display settings, then I should be able to calibrate from the projector itself)
On the other hand, it's also installed on my T1 for other reasons : even if I don't interact directly with the T1 that much, I don't like to be welcome with chinese stuff I will never use when I do. And I can use some of the side tools of Projectivy (automatic shutdown after 2 hours with no user interaction, parental control on the settings to prevent my kids from fiddling with them, Projectivy internal TV view that has a timeout of 30s to help with slow HDMI handshakes...)


ACE844 said:


> I sideloaded your app and it is a major step up from the stock experience. I did see access to some advanced picture and calibration settings in the menus but did not manipulate them as I don't have a spectrometer on hand. In looking through the menus some of the more advanced calibrators here might be interested to try it out. One thing I noted of which was interesting is that despite having manipulated the RGB and a few other stetings previously in theUI the RGB in the engineering and other advanced setting menus were all set for equivalent values. This makes me wonder if the picture colors and RGB manipulation most are seeing is software or graphics card-based.


Fengmi added their own layer, but in the end everything goes through mediatek low level library. Not sure why they somehow duplicated the different profiles (or why both are not synchronized).
As a side note, I believe I've seen that LUT files are used for the internal calibration. If this device get rooted one day, it should be totally possible to replace them with your own.


ACE844 said:


> You can download the apk from here: [APP][ANDROID TV] ProjecTivy Launcher
> put it on a thumb drive and then click on it when the thumb drive is plugged into the T1.It may prompt a security warning, allow the install and then you're off to the races.
> @spocky12 can you clarify what's available in the premium version?


Premium will let you define multiple display profiles (but only for Android 6 MiTv devices until I find how to use the mediatek libs on the T1), add more than 1 app to parental control and add user defined wallpaper. But for now, premium can only be bought on devices with Google Play , I need to find a simple workaround (I don't have time to manange my own licensing server that I would need to develop from scratch, keep away from hackers, etc...).


rjyap said:


> Yes. For both bright and dark mode.


You can also enable MEMC on these modes (it's not called MEMC in the menus, I don't remember the wording and I'm not home right now, but it can be found easily).
I didn't test, but you can also enable WOL for both WIFI and ETH, if you need automation for power on.


----------



## humax

spocky12 said:


> On the other hand, it's also installed on my T1 for other reasons : even if I don't interact directly with the T1 that much, I don't like to be welcome with chinese stuff I will never use when I do.



I understand you already own the Chinese T1. Do you think it will soon be possible to flash it with an international rom? If not, now that the global version is commercially launched, which version would you choose, if you had to buy a T1 again? I take it for granted your app can be used with the global version as well. Thank you for your input and your work! ProjecTivy seems like a great tool.


----------



## ACE844

@esegan I was not able to find that menu and or CMS options in the project TIVI tools, only the ones which I posted, and I went through every menu and setting I could access


----------



## m0j0

Had a really enjoyable movie watching experience on the T1 last night. I set my HDFury Vrroom to 10,000 nits on the DV tab and the below settings for the T1 (dialed back blue a little bit more from last settings), and watched The Great Wall on my Zidoo Z9X. It was really amazing in person! Great black levels, excellent contrast and colors looked really good! Just really got drawn into it. I also watched some scenes from Avengers Age of Ultron and Dune and they both looked fantastic as well! I think these are going to be my go to settings for watching movies on the Z9X going forward (and probably the Sony X800M2 as well).

Brightness Mode: Night Mode
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 50
Saturation: 38
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 52
Color Custom:
Red: 1016
Green: 996
Blue: 855


----------



## m0j0

Didn't take many pics of this movie, but here are a few:


----------



## ViruZZZ

m0j0 said:


> I set my HDFury Vrroom to 10,000 nits on the DV tab and the below settings for the T1


What additionally gives HDFury Vrroom for t1? Is it possible to get such colors without HDFury Vrroom?
Sorry for stupid questions, I'm new to projectors) I want to get the best quality and bright colors in a home projector, so I'm studying the topic of t1 and с2.


----------



## rooterha

If someone can give guidance on editing the different display modes using Projectivy I'm down to test it out. Once I can do that it will be pretty much a perfect device for me.


----------



## m0j0

ViruZZZ said:


> What additionally gives HDFury Vrroom for t1? Is it possible to get such colors without HDFury Vrroom?
> Sorry for stupid questions, I'm new to projectors) I want to get the best quality and bright colors in a home projector, so I'm studying the topic of t1 and с2.


The HDFury Vrroom/Vertex2 helps with tone mapping because it allows a player that supports forcing DV/LLDV to send pre-processed DV signals to the projector and allows for some customizations that can enhance brightness and color in comparison to the display side DV configuration (it gets sent as a custom HDR signal and still allows full controls on the T1 vs the T1 using Dolby Vision mode and locking out controls).


----------



## spocky12

humax said:


> I understand you already own the Chinese T1. Do you think it will soon be possible to flash it with an international rom? If not, now that the global version is commercially launched, which version would you choose, if you had to buy a T1 again? I take it for granted your app can be used with the global version as well. Thank you for your input and your work! ProjecTivy seems like a great tool.


I'm pretty sure that international roms won't be flashable to chinese models.

If I'm not mistaken (it has to be confirmed, but that's what I understood), the international T1 won't support most DRMS. So no streaming services. Which means an external player will still be required.
Specs : we'll need to wait for more input. On previous devices (amlogic), chinese models had a better specked SOC. This seems to be the same here. But unless you're playing on it, not sure it makes a big diff. One feature that was missing on previous internation models was 3D (because of SOC ?). On the T1, it won't make any difference. From what I could see, MEMC is also managed by a dedicated board, so no difference.
OS : Android Tv is more adapted than FengOs for western countries, (you'll be able to install apps from Google Play...) One point for the international T1 (lessen by the fact that you'll probably use your external player most of the time).
Support : Fengmi always provided a good support for FengOs/MiTv with many updates over the years. From what I could see, the previous international models had far less upgrades and some people struggled to fix their issues. If it didn't change, that's one point for the chinese model.
All in all, for me, it's all about how much you want to pay to get a local warranty.



ACE844 said:


> @esegan I was not able to find that menu and or CMS options in the project TIVI tools, only the ones which I posted, and I went through every menu and setting I could access


Since the standard Android Tv settings aren't offically displayed on the chinese T1, they didn't bother modifying it to add picture settings (it's not a stock Android Tv feature, they have to develop it, unless mediatek provides it for international models). Anyways, a dump of the international model might be interesting.


----------



## zoomx2

Hi Spocky, do you have to click override stock launcher in order to use the W/B settings?


----------



## rjyap

Further testing on ProjecTivi the service menu adjustment will get override by Fengmi OS menu image parameter selection. The changes doesn't tie directly to the image parameter selection. For the changes to apply successfully, you would need to select Projectivity --> Picture Mode and select the profile you want such as movie, user, game etc...


----------



## esegan

\


spocky12 said:


> Since the standard Android Tv settings aren't offically displayed on the chinese T1, they didn't bother modifying it to add picture settings (it's not a stock Android Tv feature, they have to develop it, unless mediatek provides it for international models). Anyways, a dump of the international model might be interesting. .


Yesterday, the forum member installed ProjectivyLauncher on Fengmi R1, and also posted a photo and there are android settings, though there are no necessary image settings. I don’t think that T1 is any different and the manufacturer has removed all android settings, I think you just need to find them or ask the ProjectivyLauncher developer. Or try to install the ATV launcher, I posted the installation instructions.


----------



## donw

esegan said:


> \
> 
> Yesterday, the forum member installed ProjectivyLauncher on Fengmi R1, and also posted a photo and there are android settings, though there are no necessary image settings. I don’t think that T1 is any different and the manufacturer has removed all android settings, I think you just need to find them or ask the ProjectivyLauncher developer. Or try to install the ATV launcher, I posted the installation instructions.
> View attachment 3272270
> View attachment 3272271
> View attachment 3272272


To access Android image settings, couldn't one simply install ATV Launcher on their Android streaming device and not bother with the projector?


----------



## chrisdu46

Good evening, one of you will know the exact reference of the DMD chip found on the Fengmi T1? Indeed I want to replace this chip because of a dead pixel which really spoils the viewing pleasure. thank you


----------



## ACE844

esegan said:


> Or try to install the ATV launcher, I posted the installation instructions.


Tovari,

Ok, I tried that. It didn't work. Even followed the original RU instructions.... No bueno.... next? It appears the attached launcher didn't get root and although I am skeptical that would change much in regards to access to cms settings.


----------



## humax

chrisdu46 said:


> Good evening, one of you will know the exact reference of the DMD chip found on the Fengmi T1? Indeed I want to replace this chip because of a dead pixel which really spoils the viewing pleasure. thank you



You can ask Fengmi support, although I doubt they 'll answer such a question. Your best chance is finding a technician who really knows what he is doing in order to carefully disassemble the unit and order the DMD part for you or even replace it. If you were in Greece there is the projectorjunkies guy, but in France I cannot help you with further info.


----------



## zoomx2

ACE844 said:


> Ok, I tried that. It didn't work. Even followed the original RU instructions.... No bueno.... next?


Spocky already explained Display is not in Android settings. ATV is just a launcher.


----------



## ACE844

zoomx2 said:


> Spocky already explained Display is not in Android settings. ATV is just a launcher.





zoomx2 said:


> Spocky already explained Display is not in Android settings. ATV is just a launcher.


I also tried their adb address work around it didn't change anything and didn't root the device either. I read their thread and other users report with the .289 update they also don't have CMS setting availability either. So I'm more than alittle uncertain as to why @esegan is promoting this as the answer? 

*Maybe magsik would work here but I'm unwilling to risk bricking my pj. Has anyone else tried it on a similar unit?


----------



## m0j0

Been testing a 1000 nit DV tab setup for daytime viewing (and afternoon with lights on) and so far, it seems pretty good. I need to watch more content before I'm sold, but so far, so good.

Here's the T1 settings:

Brightness Mode: View Mode
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 30
Contrast: 62
Saturation: 38
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 52
Color Custom:
Red: 1016
Green: 996
Blue: 855


----------



## aerodynamics

@spocky12 Do any of the Projectivy settings affect input lag?


----------



## Tyronious

I am awaiting my arrival of my T1 (CN) and XY PET Crystal Screen. 

I am hoping for a plug and play experience as I am often at the firehouse and I wont be able to fine tune for my girlfriend. Is there a singular setting currently that is reasonable using ATV4K? I have been reading about VRROOM and Vertex 2 and I am hoping it is unnecessary but I am willing to buy it. I also use Xbox Series X and Sonos Arc. 

Thank you.


----------



## esegan

donw said:


> To access Android image settings, couldn't one simply install ATV Launcher on their Android streaming device and not bother with the projector?


Theoretically, you can try, but I don’t know if the method I proposed for installing the ATV launcher for android set-top box is suitable. And I'm not sure that the desired image settings will be on the set-top boxes.


----------



## esegan

ACE844 said:


> So I'm more than alittle uncertain as to why @esegan is promoting this as the answer?


I did not promote anything, but suggested trying to get into the android settings through a third-party launcher. But your experience has shown that there are no image settings in android, maybe Fengmi hid these settings or cut them out of android, I'm not an android expert.


----------



## rjyap

Here’s after calibrated greyscale using Calman 5 with i1 Display Pro profile against i1 Pro spectrometer.


----------



## Joered101

rjyap said:


> Here’s after calibrated greyscale using Calman 5 with i1 Display Pro profile against i1 Pro spectrometer.
> View attachment 3272551
> 
> View attachment 3272553
> 
> View attachment 3272552


Delta is pretty low, so it is possible to get a good greyscale with the current settings on Chinese T1? Without the use of any CMS?


----------



## rjyap

Joered101 said:


> Delta is pretty low, so it is possible to get a good greyscale with the current settings on Chinese T1? Without the use of any CMS?


Luckily the RGB trace quite linear with one point adjustment. Greyscale is for white point. CMS for color. As T1 is only around 90% Rec2020 some of the color doesn't reach the intended target point. For most accurate color, I'm generating 3D LUT for MadVR using Rec2020 color gamut. This would cover all color gamut for movie encoded for Rec2020, DCI-P3 and Rec 709


----------



## Joered101

rjyap said:


> Luckily the RGB trace quite linear with one point adjustment. Greyscale is for white point. CMS for color. As T1 is only around 90% Rec2020 some of the color doesn't reach the intended target point.
> 
> View attachment 3272556


Yeah for sure, wanna tweak them hues out of whack for sure though had to do it with my Optoma.
I would probably calibrate it to P3. 
how accurateare you finding the T1’s colours since new firmware? That’s what most concerned about


----------



## rjyap

Joered101 said:


> Yeah for sure, wanna tweak them hues out of whack for sure though had to do it with my Optoma.
> I would probably calibrate it to P3.
> how accurateare you finding the T1’s colours since new firmware? That’s what most concerned about


The color is really good and skin tone looks natural. I found out only one movie have issue with too reddish/orange skin tone which is The Greatest showman. Not sure if it is the source issue. I need to turn down saturation from 50 to around 45 for the skin tone not too offensive.


----------



## Joered101

rjyap said:


> The color is really good and skin tone looks natural. I found out only one movie have issue with too reddish/orange skin tone which is The Greatest showman. Not sure if it is the source issue. I need to turn down saturation from 50 to around 45 for the skin tone not too offensive.


Yeah that was my issue with the Optoma, people get the tomato face look. Feel like all these projectors push red a bit much. From your chart though looks not far of ref points.
Do you recommend using Calman to calibrate over HCFR?


----------



## rjyap

I don't recommend buying Calman if you don't have it. The current price too expensive for home calibration. Calman advantage is slightly easier to profile the meter but the rest of the function are similar. My Calman license is only up to 2017 and I don't bother to upgrade the license.


----------



## Joered101

rjyap said:


> I don't recommend buying Calman if you don't have it. The current price too expensive for home calibration. Calman advantage is slightly easier to profile the meter but the rest of the function are similar. My Calman license is only up to 2017 and I don't bother to upgrade the license.


Ah okay thank you! Yeah it’s very expensive. I use HCFR but haven’t bothered calibrating my meter, is that important for extra accurate results, I can get away without so it right? Surely wouldn’t effect the delta E much?


----------



## rjyap

Colorimeter is not accurate for tri laser projector as there’s no such profile included as far as I know. Your best bet is to get someone with good spectrometer and profile against it for your projector.


----------



## rjyap

Here’s the rainbow unicorn photo. Every colors are display flawlessly.


----------



## Joered101

rjyap said:


> Colorimeter is not accurate for tri laser projector as there’s no such profile included as far as I know. Your best bet is to get someone with good spectrometer and profile against it for your projector.


Ah man really? Surely when I get the international version I’ll be able to calibrate it with my i1 to some degree of accuracy better than out of the box?

also yeah colours there do look really good… are you using any vroom or vertex box like m0jo? Or this is just your projector after correcting greyscale?


----------



## rjyap

Joered101 said:


> Ah man really? Surely when I get the international version I’ll be able to calibrate it with my i1 to some degree of accuracy better than out of the box?
> 
> also yeah colours there do look really good… are you using any vroom or vertex box like m0jo? Or this is just your projector after correcting greyscale?


Hard to say as it depends how accurate the colorimeter is. I tested the colorimeter on my laptop compare to spectrometer and it’s quite a big difference.
I’m using HTPC with MadVR. No vroom or vertex needed. The solution is only for offline media.


----------



## Joered101

rjyap said:


> Hard to say as it depends how accurate the colorimeter is. I tested the colorimeter on my laptop compare to spectrometer and it’s quite a big difference.
> I’m using HTPC with MadVR. No vroom or vertex needed. The solution is only for offline media.


Aha just had to Google HTPC, home theatre pc right? Same as I’ll be using. And MADVR using VLC? I found POT player has really nice HDR playback as well. Thanks for all the answers by the way!


----------



## gen_x

Joered101 said:


> Aha just had to Google HTPC, home theatre pc right? Same as I’ll be using. And MADVR using VLC? I found POT player has really nice HDR playback as well. Thanks for all the answers by the way!


Can you force lldv to T1with your htpc?


----------



## m0j0

Been up and down the scale testing what is a good value for nits in the DV tab on the Vrroom for the T1. I really like 10,000 for movies on the Zidoo Z9X, but that doesn't work well for content on the Roku Ultra. I've tried low nits (100-150) higher nits (1,000, 4,000 and 10,000) and then medium level (400-700) for the Roku, trying to find the level that gives the best flexibility. Last night, I ended up at 500 for the DV nits tab and I like what it can do. It's bright enough, even with Night Mode brightness, has plenty of contrast and shadow detail and can show well on a range of content without blowing out white highlights. These are the settings I was testing last night:

DV tab set to 500 nits on the Vrroom

Brightness Mode: Night Mode
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 49
Contrast: 56
Saturation: 38
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 52
Color: Custom
Red: 1016
Green: 996
Blue: 855

The contrast at 56 might be a touch on the high side but I wanted to see how high I could take it without blowing out white highlights, so this seems like the top of that range. I could easily dial it back as far down as 49 if I think it's called for, but that's what I like about this particular setup. I can set it to 500 nits on the Vrroom and then just leave it there, and adjust contrast up to 56 or down to 49 if I need to at a particular time of day or particular show, etc.


----------



## m0j0

500 nits test pictures with night mode brightness


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

m0j0 said:


> Been up and down the scale testing what is a good value for nits in the DV tab on the Vrroom for the T1. I really like 10,000 for movies on the Zidoo Z9X, but that doesn't work well for content on the Roku Ultra. I've tried low nits (100-150) higher nits (1,000, 4,000 and 10,000) and then medium level (400-700) for the Roku, trying to find the level that gives the best flexibility. Last night, I ended up at 500 for the DV nits tab and I like what it can do. It's bright enough, even with Night Mode brightness, has plenty of contrast and shadow detail and can show well on a range of content without blowing out white highlights. These are the settings I was testing last night:
> 
> DV tab set to 500 nits on the Vrroom
> 
> Brightness Mode: Night Mode
> Image Parameters: Custom
> Brightness: 49
> Contrast: 56
> Saturation: 38
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 52
> Color: Custom
> Red: 1016
> Green: 996
> Blue: 855
> 
> The contrast at 56 might be a touch on the high side but I wanted to see how high I could take it without blowing out white highlights, so this seems like the top of that range. I could easily dial it back as far down as 49 if I think it's called for, but that's what I like about this particular setup. I can set it to 500 nits on the Vrroom and then just leave it there, and adjust contrast up to 56 or down to 49 if I need to at a particular time of day or particular show, etc.


Interesting that the Zidoo and Roku have different optimal settings. Clearly not a one size fits all solution with experimentation in one’s system necessary to coax the best out of these units. That said, have you made any changes to the HDR tab?


----------



## m0j0

Scott Rosenberg said:


> Interesting that the Zidoo and Roku have different optimal settings. Clearly not a one size fits all solution with experimentation in one’s system necessary to coax the best out of these units. That said, have you made any changes to the HDR tab?


No changes to the HDR tab


----------



## rjyap

Joered101 said:


> Aha just had to Google HTPC, home theatre pc right? Same as I’ll be using. And MADVR using VLC? I found POT player has really nice HDR playback as well. Thanks for all the answers by the way!


I'm using MPC-BE with LAV filter and MadVR. POT player with MadVR also good combo.


----------



## arsenalfc89

m0j0 said:


> 500 nits test pictures with night mode brightness


I had to hop in and commend you for the work you’ve been putting in making the image look more natural 🙌.


----------



## m0j0

arsenalfc89 said:


> I had to hop in and commend you for the work you’ve been putting in making the image look more natural 🙌.


Thanks!


----------



## humax

For those who want to go up to 150" there is a new floor rising model at a decent initial price. I do not know about shipping from China and taxes though. These should raise the end price considerably.

Laser Projector On SCREENPRO 150'' Floor Rising ALR Projection Screen - YouTube 

Screen Pro 150 Inch 4k Uhd Laser Projector Screen With Sound Transparent Perforated Floor Rising T Prism Alr Projection Screen - Buy Alr Ust Screen Material,150 Inch Electric Floor Rising Screen,Alr Ust Floor Rising Screen Product on Alibaba.com


----------



## Ricoflashback

humax said:


> For those who want to go up to 150" there is a new floor rising model at a decent initial price. I do not know about shipping from China and taxes though. These should raise the end price considerably.
> 
> Laser Projector On SCREENPRO 150'' Floor Rising ALR Projection Screen - YouTube
> 
> Screen Pro 150 Inch 4k Uhd Laser Projector Screen With Sound Transparent Perforated Floor Rising T Prism Alr Projection Screen - Buy Alr Ust Screen Material,150 Inch Electric Floor Rising Screen,Alr Ust Floor Rising Screen Product on Alibaba.com


Those look nice but there is no way I can have the projector on the floor. Maybe if you have no pets and can't hang a fixed screen on the wall, it would be an option. Anything mechanical - - including top down, electronic screens are prone to mechanical failure. It's not a matter of "if." It's a matter of "when."


----------



## Dr. Feelgood

Can someone recommend a fixed 150“ screen, please.


----------



## humax

Dr. Feelgood said:


> Can someone recommend a fixed 150“ screen, please.


150inch Cbsp Oem/wupro 2021 Ust Alr 150 Inch Projection Screens Pet Crystal Home Theater 4k Screen Projection For Ust Projectors - Buy Projector Screen,Projection Screen,Pet Alr Screen Product on Alibaba.com


----------



## fancyclown

Unpacked the T1 today and went through some initial settings and everything went great. Connected my shield tv pro (2019) and can’t get it to work. 😞 I’ve tested all three hdmi inputs but the shield alternates between connected and disconnected and the T1 never finds the signal.

Then I used the same HDMI cable to connect Nintendo Switch and it works with no problems. 

My T1 had ProjecTivy Tools installed by Nothingbutlabel and I’ve manually updated that to ProjecTivy Launcher 4.01.

Any ideas? Do I need to reset the shield because it’s been connected to my Panasonic OLED? Thanks for any help 🙂


----------



## m0j0

fancyclown said:


> Unpacked the T1 today and went through some initial settings and everything went great. Connected my shield tv pro (2019) and can’t get it to work. 😞 I’ve tested all three hdmi inputs but the shield alternates between connected and disconnected and the T1 never finds the signal.
> 
> Then I used the same HDMI cable to connect Nintendo Switch and it works with no problems.
> 
> My T1 had ProjecTivy Tools installed by Nothingbutlabel and I’ve manually updated that to ProjecTivy Launcher 4.01.
> 
> Any ideas? Do I need to reset the shield because it’s been connected to my Panasonic OLED? Thanks for any help 🙂


When you get the switch connected, try going in and changing the T1 to hdmi 2.0 or 2.1 (it may be on Auto), then try plugging the Shield in and see if that works.


----------



## fancyclown

m0j0 said:


> When you get the switch connected, try going in and changing the T1 to hdmi 2.0 or 2.1 (it may be on Auto), then try plugging the Shield in and see if that works.


No dice 🫤

I will try to disable CEC and HDMI power settings on both the T1 and the shield tomorrow. Thanks for the reply 👍


----------



## lattiboy

fancyclown said:


> No dice 🫤
> 
> I will try to disable CEC and HDMI power settings on both the T1 and the shield tomorrow. Thanks for the reply 👍


I also had weird issues with my shield that I didn’t have with any other of my devices. I ended up doing a full reset and it worked


----------



## m0j0

fancyclown said:


> No dice 🫤
> 
> I will try to disable CEC and HDMI power settings on both the T1 and the shield tomorrow. Thanks for the reply 👍


Do you have an AVR? If so, try connecting through that vs. directly to the T1 and see if that makes any difference as well.


----------



## xrayg1971

m0j0 said:


> Do you have an AVR? If so, try connecting through that vs. directly to the T1 and see if that makes any difference as well.


i had / have an issue with my t1 .. i have my sheild & cable box connected to my avr then the avr connected to the t1 ... well initially it was connected to hdmi 1 on the t1 and just the other day i started to get these weird ground humming during moments of silence regardless if what i was watching ... i initially thought it was the cable box or the connection to the avr but it was not .. i changed all the source to avr cable and same .. then i moved the avr to t1 cable to hdmi 2 and no more ground humming ... everything is fine now .. Any thoughts on this .. i hope this is not a sign of things to come ..


----------



## jeff9n

lattiboy said:


> My arcana just got delivered, so I’m going to toy around with it. Would anybody with experience tell me what exactly I should be attempting with the T1? All the posts I see are about faking DV, but since the T1 process DV natively (albeit with issues), what should I set in the web interface?


Hi. I am going to receive my HD Fury Arcana today. I will connect it to the Roku Streaming Stick (similar to your Roku Ultra). What settings you are using on Arcana? For my Roku Stick, the display is auto detected to 4K HDR. But I can manually force it to 4K Dolby Vision. 

Thanks!


----------



## m0j0

jeff9n said:


> Hi. I am going to receive my HD Fury Arcana today. I will connect it to the Roku Streaming Stick (similar to your Roku Ultra). What settings you are using on Arcana? For my Roku Stick, the display is auto detected to 4K HDR. But I can manually force it to 4K Dolby Vision.
> 
> Thanks!


Pending @lattiboy's info, I would force everything to 4k DV and start out at 500 nits on the Arcana for LLDV max luminance and leave LLDV min luminance at zero.


----------



## m0j0

xrayg1971 said:


> i had / have an issue with my t1 .. i have my sheild & cable box connected to my avr then the avr connected to the t1 ... well initially it was connected to hdmi 1 on the t1 and just the other day i started to get these weird ground humming during moments of silence regardless if what i was watching ... i initially thought it was the cable box or the connection to the avr but it was not .. i changed all the source to avr cable and same .. then i moved the avr to t1 cable to hdmi 2 and no more ground humming ... everything is fine now .. Any thoughts on this .. i hope this is not a sign of things to come ..


That's an odd one. Only thing I can think of is that HDMI 1 is closer on the board to the power than HDMI 2.


----------



## jeff9n

m0j0 said:


> Pending @lattiboy's info, I would force everything to 4k DV and start out at 500 nits on the Arcana for LLDV max luminance and leave LLDV min luminance at zero.


Thanks!


----------



## ACE844

m0j0 said:


> Pending @lattiboy's info, I would force everything to 4k DV and start out at 500 nits on the Arcana for LLDV max luminance and leave LLDV min luminance at zero.


In perusing the project tivi launcher unlocked settings I saw in one of the menus that the firmware listed a 500 nit max lock so perhaps that's why you're seeing a better result with that setting in the HDFury?


----------



## m0j0

ACE844 said:


> In perusing the project tivi launcher unlocked settings I saw in one of the menus that the firmware listed a 500 nit max lock so perhaps that's why you're seeing a better result with that setting in the HDFury?


Interesting…


----------



## lattiboy

jeff9n said:


> Hi. I am going to receive my HD Fury Arcana today. I will connect it to the Roku Streaming Stick (similar to your Roku Ultra). What settings you are using on Arcana? For my Roku Stick, the display is auto detected to 4K HDR. But I can manually force it to 4K Dolby Vision.
> 
> Thanks!


Literally all you need to do is set LLDV menu to 200nits max, and in HDR do LLDV sync. Then enable HDR Always on on your Roku. If the Roku supports DV it should be in DV mode all the time.

my settings are

brightness 49
Contrast 65
Sharpness 22
Tone 51
Active contrast OFF

color is custom, but not at home to check. Mojo had good color settings posted


----------



## slickrock

humax said:


> 150inch Cbsp Oem/wupro 2021 Ust Alr 150 Inch Projection Screens Pet Crystal Home Theater 4k Screen Projection For Ust Projectors - Buy Projector Screen,Projection Screen,Pet Alr Screen Product on Alibaba.com


I would be shocked if this screen is actually PET Crystal. Any lenticular ALR past 120" will be T-Prism at best.


----------



## m0j0

Threw in an old school classic movie tonight, The Fifth Element. These are using the 10,000 nit DV settings I used on the Z9X the other night, but being played from a 4k blu ray on my Sony X800M2.


----------



## rjyap

Further testing with ProjecTivy the picture mode adjustment under Mediatek menu doesn't seems to work. I switch to Game Mode in FengOS, then run ProjecTivy and try to adjust HDMI 3 input (PC input) switch to game profile. Adjust the saturation to 0 which should make the picture black & white but doesn't seems to change anything. The White Balance adjustment under advance does work.


----------



## humax

slickrock said:


> I would be shocked if this screen is actually PET Crystal. Any lenticular ALR past 120" will be T-Prism at best.



There are 150", 180" or even 200" custom made Pet Crystal versions, if you order directly from a screen manufacturer, but you do have to pay much more for them than 100"-120" and then also issues of exorbitant shipping cost and logistics arise. Many couriers will refuse to handle any package that is longer than a certain length and then you have to use a freight service. Too much hassle and complications. At least, that was the case, when I was looking into larger ALR sizes for worldwide shipping. As for the particular screen, I would e-mail them first, before ordering. Gain, schematics and price are that of a Pet Grid, but they do clearly mention it is an OEM Pet Crystal. They are a reputable vendor, so I would think they do have a clue about what they are selling.


----------



## ACE844

m0j0 said:


> Interesting…


It's under the Fengmi engineering settings, 2nd option from top under Dolby. It lists the min/max lumens as set there at 500 ea.


----------



## eezrider

rjyap said:


> Here’s the rainbow unicorn photo. Every colors are display flawlessly.
> View attachment 3272562


Does anyone have a timestamp for this scene? Thanks!


----------



## m0j0

eezrider said:


> Does anyone have a timestamp for this scene? Thanks!


I think it's around 52 minutes, but don't know the exact seconds.


----------



## spocky12

zoomx2 said:


> Hi Spocky, do you have to click override stock launcher in order to use the W/B settings?


No, "override stock launcher" only helps getting back to Projectivy Launcher instead of FengOs Launcher when you press the "home" button ("Projectivy Launcher" accessibility service needs to be enabled).



rjyap said:


> Further testing on ProjecTivi the service menu adjustment will get override by Fengmi OS menu image parameter selection. The changes doesn't tie directly to the image parameter selection. For the changes to apply successfully, you would need to select Projectivity --> Picture Mode and select the profile you want such as movie, user, game etc...


Regarding the mediatek advanced settings, it is indeed overriden by the fengmi picture settings, which are automatically applied when using the stock Tv View app (it's the default behavior of Projectivy HDMI input shortcuts). Enabling "Prefer internal Tv View" in Projectivy settings will make these shortcuts use a Tv View that I developped based on Android Tv API. As it won't use Fengmi code, nothing will interfer with the mediatek settings and override them. For convenience, when using this Tv View, I also added a shortcut on the "mediatek settings" when you press the remote control's "menu" button.
Note that it seems that only "User" profile can be modified in "mediatek settings". For all other profiles, customizing the settings don't seem to change anything. So unless I'm missing something we're still stuck with only one custom profile for now. The advantage of using the Internal Tv View is that you get a little bit more customization from the "mediatek settings" than what you get from the stock "fengmi settings". I believe you also have 1 or 2 picture modes added, and when you select "DoVi" profiles, you can combine them with MEMC (which are called "MFC" in "Other Options" of the "Mediatek Settings").



aerodynamics said:


> @spocky12 Do any of the Projectivy settings affect input lag?


No. At least not until I have reversed the mediatek display libs and found a way to use them from non system code.



esegan said:


> Theoretically, you can try, but I don’t know if the method I proposed for installing the ATV launcher for android set-top box is suitable. And I'm not sure that the desired image settings will be on the set-top boxes.


I don't believe there are any image settings available in android streaming boxes. Only on the display itself (tv/projector)



esegan said:


> I did not promote anything, but suggested trying to get into the android settings through a third-party launcher. But your experience has shown that there are no image settings in android, maybe Fengmi hid these settings or cut them out of android, I'm not an android expert.


Projectivy Launcher is a 3rd party launcher and already allows access to the stock android settings. ATV won't add anything more. 
Fengmi did not hide the settings, it's not part of the stock Android Tv code. They need to implement it themselves in the stock android settings app.



fancyclown said:


> Unpacked the T1 today and went through some initial settings and everything went great. Connected my shield tv pro (2019) and can’t get it to work. 😞 I’ve tested all three hdmi inputs but the shield alternates between connected and disconnected and the T1 never finds the signal.
> 
> Then I used the same HDMI cable to connect Nintendo Switch and it works with no problems.
> 
> My T1 had ProjecTivy Tools installed by Nothingbutlabel and I’ve manually updated that to ProjecTivy Launcher 4.01.
> 
> Any ideas? Do I need to reset the shield because it’s been connected to my Panasonic OLED? Thanks for any help 🙂


Never had this issue with my shield pro connected to my t1 through my AVR.



rjyap said:


> Further testing with ProjecTivy the picture mode adjustment under Mediatek menu doesn't seems to work. I switch to Game Mode in FengOS, then run ProjecTivy and try to adjust HDMI 3 input (PC input) switch to game profile. Adjust the saturation to 0 which should make the picture black & white but doesn't seems to change anything. The White Balance adjustment under advance does work.


I think one of my answers above might shed some light on your issue.



ACE844 said:


> It's under the Fengmi engineering settings, 2nd option from top under Dolby. It lists the min/max lumens as set there at 500 ea.


I also added it to Projectivy Launcher / About / This device. 
This is what is returned by an official Android API. Now, did Fengmi implement it correctly or do they just return a default value there ?


----------



## fancyclown

fancyclown said:


> Unpacked the T1 today and went through some initial settings and everything went great. Connected my shield tv pro (2019) and can’t get it to work. 😞 I’ve tested all three hdmi inputs but the shield alternates between connected and disconnected and the T1 never finds the signal.
> 
> Then I used the same HDMI cable to connect Nintendo Switch and it works with no problems.
> 
> My T1 had ProjecTivy Tools installed by Nothingbutlabel and I’ve manually updated that to ProjecTivy Launcher 4.01.
> 
> Any ideas? Do I need to reset the shield because it’s been connected to my Panasonic OLED? Thanks for any help 🙂


It was the HDMI cable after all. Must be going bad. Go figure ☺


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

I have hard the Shield is particularly bad at introducing noise to HDMI cables.
Also BT interference due to the USB 3.

Disabling USB 3 mode may have helped, but getting a better shielded cable can resolve the HDMI issue.


----------



## JereyWolf

spocky12 said:


> I also added it to Projectivy Launcher / About / This device.
> This is what is returned by an official Android API. Now, did Fengmi implement it correctly or do they just return a default value there ?


Ate those luminance values able to be adjusted?


----------



## zaselim

rjyap said:


> Further testing with ProjecTivy the picture mode adjustment under Mediatek menu doesn't seems to work. I switch to Game Mode in FengOS, then run ProjecTivy and try to adjust HDMI 3 input (PC input) switch to game profile. Adjust the saturation to 0 which should make the picture black & white but doesn't seems to change anything. The White Balance adjustment under advance does work.


I have 2 questions for you, (1) on my PC i notice i have a slightly wider picture on T1 display than my Samsung TV. Now i don't know which picture is correct one, does my TV (set to fit image in display setting) displaying a slimer picture than T1 or T1 is displaying a slightly wider picture. Did you face anything like that?
(2) when connected through my AV Receiver (yamaha Rx-V581) both my TV and T1 don't get 4k native display (1080p native instead) but when i connect them directly they are getting native 4k display. But my PS4 Pro detects native 4k automatically when connected through my Receiver. I have checked all the cables (bought the new ones) separately and they are fully 4k/60/120 hz compatible and my receiver also supports 4k/60/hdr hdcp2.2. Do you know what could be causing it.
Thanks.


----------



## ACE844

JereyWolf said:


> Ate those luminance values able to be adjusted?


I didn't see an area where they could be adjusted. However, I did find a super bright mode listed in the Chinese engineering menu. I couldn't resist so I turned it on. The fans went into instant overdrive and then an overheat popup appeared with a note that the unit was going to kick down the power. The unit had been running several hours continuously at that point and it was a huge jump in brightness. It was a plain white screen that appeared for a few seconds. I'm not sure if there are more 'nits/lumens/lux' hiding in the unit and the thermal management just isn't there and they are purposely limiting brightness?...Maybe it's just my setup?


----------



## JereyWolf

ACE844 said:


> I didn't see an area where they could be adjusted. However, I did find a super bright mode listed in the Chinese engineering menu. I couldn't resist so I turned it on. The fans went into instant overdrive and then an overheat popup appeared with a note that the unit was going to kick down the power. The unit had been running several hours continuously at that point and it was a huge jump in brightness. It was a plain white screen that appeared for a few seconds. I'm not sure if there are more 'nits/lumens/lux' hiding in the unit and the thermal management just isn't there and they are purposely limiting brightness?...Maybe it's just my setup?


Haha, I did the same thing with the "super bright mode". Looking through all the menus while I had google translate pulled up on my phone, lol. 

I wish I could dial back that MAX luminance to 100 or lower so that the whole EOTF curve would be better for my set up...but I assume it's not so simple.


----------



## rjyap

zaselim said:


> I have 2 questions for you, (1) on my PC i notice i have a slightly wider picture on T1 display than my Samsung TV. Now i don't know which picture is correct one, does my TV (set to fit image in display setting) displaying a slimer picture than T1 or T1 is displaying a slightly wider picture. Did you face anything like that?
> (2) when connected through my AV Receiver (yamaha Rx-V581) both my TV and T1 don't get 4k native display (1080p native instead) but when i connect them directly they are getting native 4k display. But my PS4 Pro detects native 4k automatically when connected through my Receiver. I have checked all the cables (bought the new ones) separately and they are fully 4k/60/120 hz compatible and my receiver also supports 4k/60/hdr hdcp2.2. Do you know what could be causing it.
> Thanks.


I don't notice any difference in width compare to my TV. My projector fixed frame is 16:9 so if it is wider, either I have black bar top/bottom or overflow on the side. Check under aspect ratio in your projector/TV settings if you have enable stretch to fit.
As for the output only in 1080p thru AV receiver, do you have a second HDMI output connected to another FullHD only display? If yes, try unplug it and check it again. I have the same issue initially when the old Optoma HD83 projector is plug in HDMI Output 2 and AV receiver is set to dual output. I change the AV receiver to only output to HDMI Output 1.


----------



## zaselim

rjyap said:


> I don't notice any difference in width compare to my TV. My projector fixed frame is 16:9 so if it is wider, either I have black bar top/bottom or overflow on the side. Check under aspect ratio in your projector/TV settings if you have enable stretch to fit.
> As for the output only in 1080p thru AV receiver, do you have a second HDMI output connected to another FullHD only display? If yes, try unplug it and check it again. I have the same issue initially when the old Optoma HD83 projector is plug in HDMI Output 2 and AV receiver is set to dual output. I change the AV receiver to only output to HDMI Output 1.


I only have my Ps4 pro (automatically detects full 4k resolution) through AV Receiver and then my PC is connected to T1 through my AV receiver with hdmi 2.1 and then it is directly connected to my TV (with dp1.4 to hdmi2.1) with a clone display (T1 display as a source). When i turned off T1 my TV display automatically goes to native 4k(3840x2160) because of direct contectivity but when i turned off the TV or both displays remain On then the its shows 1080p as native, 4096x2160 as recommended. But i also see 3840x2160 in the list and i am currently on it.
Does it reduce the 4k quality(detail/sharpness) if i am using that forced 3840x2160 resolution when the list show 1920x1080 as a native resolution compared to native 3840x2160 resolution?


----------



## rjyap

zaselim said:


> I only have my Ps4 pro (automatically detects full 4k resolution) through AV Receiver and then my PC is connected to T1 through my AV receiver with hdmi 2.1 and then it is directly connected to my TV (with dp1.4 to hdmi2.1) with a clone display (T1 display as a source). When i turned off T1 my TV display automatically goes to native 4k(3840x2160) because of direct contectivity but when i turned off the TV or both displays remain On then the its shows 1080p as native, 4096x2160 as recommended. But i also see 3840x2160 in the list and i am currently on it.
> Does it reduce the 4k quality(detail/sharpness) if i am using that forced 3840x2160 resolution when the list show 1920x1080 as a native resolution compared to native 3840x2160 resolution?


can’t tell but you can just display sharpness test pattern and compare.


----------



## patels922

Anyone own this in the NY/NJ area? Would love to pick your brain before purchasing it. Please PM me. Dinner and drinks on me


----------



## okvcos

spocky12 said:


> No, "override stock launcher" only helps getting back to Projectivy Launcher instead of FengOs Launcher when you press the "home" button ("Projectivy Launcher" accessibility service needs to be enabled).


Where I can find a guide on how to use / launch / install Projectivy ?


----------



## spocky12

JereyWolf said:


> Ate those luminance values able to be adjusted?


Nope. This is a read-only api.


okvcos said:


> Where I can find a guide on how to use / launch / install Projectivy ?











[APP][ANDROID TV] Projectivy Launcher


Introduction ProjecTivy Launcher is a launcher dedicated to Android Tv, offering special features for Xiaomi family projectors/TVs. With the new major version that extends the use to all Android TV devices, and for better understanding, the...




forum.xda-developers.com




I need to update the 1st post and document the new features, but most details are still relevant.
I you have specific questions, don't hesitate to ask on the xda thread (lets not hijack the T1 thread)


----------



## m0j0

Had something interesting to share with the group this morning. Previously, I mentioned that a 500 nits DV tab setting on the Vrroom seemed to work best with the Roku Ultra, and that when I tried a higher value, such as 1,000 nits, I was getting crushed highlights. Well, I did some further testing last night and was able to get 1,000 nits working great on the Roku Ultra. It seems that you have to do some little tricks to get everything to take correctly. Before, I would just update the nits value for max luminance on the DV tab, click Create and click Send DV, then reboot both the Vrroom and the Roku Ultra. Seemed like the values took properly from that point. What I did differently this time was also go in to the HDR/AVI tab and make a change to Max Luminance (change down from 10,000 to 1,000, for example), click Create IF and click Send HDR, then change it back to the original value and click Create IF and click Send HDR again. Then I rebooted the Vrroom and the Roku Ultra. After that, I am able to go through all content and no crushed highlights when brightness and contrast are set appropriately. I also went in and checked with the Spears and Munsil 4k disk and watched the demo content to confirm all is good. Not sure why this worked any differently but just thought I'd share in case anyone else out there is making changes to their HDFury and wants to be sure the changes are taking effect correctly.


----------



## m0j0

I adjusted red down a bit and saturation up a bit in my latest testing at 1,000 nits on the DV tab. It feels like the colors are really good but not overdone, black levels and brightness feel pretty good and natural as well. I feel like this might be a good overall setting going forward, as it seems to be able to work well on both the Roku and the Sony X800M2. Still need to test on the Z9X and see if it works as well there or not.

Brightness Mode: Night Mode
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 52
Contrast: 49
Saturation: 45
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 52
Color: Custom
Red: 950
Green: 996
Blue: 855

Note: I was able to crank up the Contrast a few more points while watching content on the Roku (up to 52 or 53 without any blowing out of white highlights) but on the demo videos on the Sony, I couldn't go higher than 49 without blowing out white.


----------



## m0j0

Test pics on the Roku and Sony X800M2 using 1,000 nits value in the DV tab on the Vrroom, and with the custom color and saturation changes.


----------



## xrayg1971

patels922 said:


> Anyone own this in the NY/NJ area? Would love to pick your brain before purchasing it. Please PM me. Dinner and drinks on me


i have one im in NY westchester


----------



## HCMKII

Hi,
I updated FENGOS2.0.0.2289 but I don't have the New mode in the playback settings! The new Brightness mode and Dolby Vision do not appear. Am I the only one in this case? Thank you for your replies.


----------



## rooterha

HCMKII said:


> Hi,
> I updated FENGOS2.0.0.2289 but I don't have the New mode in the playback settings! The new Brightness mode and Dolby Vision do not appear. Am I the only one in this case? Thank you for your replies.


Sounds like perhaps you don't actually have DV activated.


----------



## HCMKII

rooterha said:


> Sounds like perhaps you don't actually have DV activated.




























DV activated when a dv movie is detected


----------



## ProjectionHead

I've had some time to play around with the International unit a bit. At first none of the HDMI inputs would work but Formovie flashed me with some new firmware and I was rocking today. I still haven't had @Dave Harper do his thing to it yet, so it was by no means looking as good as it could.
For Youtube content kept referring to the Faces in 8K video (



 - thanks @Grazed). Watching it side by side against the PX1-Pro, it was really evident in the scenes with the woman in front of the black background that the Formovie unit had superior blacks... but that shouldn't come as a surprise to anyone based on all the feedback and photos and the colors looked vibrant.
I was able to negate the bowing by using keystoning without any noticeable detriment.
When I hooked up both projectors to the my distribution amplifier and played Planet Earth, the colors seemed much more muted on the Formovie. Fiddling with the CMS didn't seem to have a significant impact, but again I am going to defer to @Dave Harper to do a proper calibration before I try to compare it again to anything else and plan on running it up against 3-4 other units using content suggested here by several of y'all as stress test.. It is possible I will be getting another firmware upgrade soon as supposedly I have the first unit here in the USA and am providing some beta user feedback.
Long story short, I'm intrigued, ready to pit this bad-boy up against some of the more recognized names and looking forward to sharing details about the USA release once I'm allowed... and at this time you should expect it available for sale at a place _very close to my heart_ for it's debut here in the States.


----------



## ProjectionHead

patels922 said:


> Anyone own this in the NY/NJ area? Would love to pick your brain before purchasing it. Please PM me. Dinner and drinks on me


I've got one here in Northern NJ and will be looking to part with it since we now have the international model.


----------



## humax

ProjectionHead said:


> I've had some time to play around with the International unit a bit.




Thank you for your input, since you appear to be the first and only one using this anywhere right now. Have you experienced any application lag or slowing down of general performance due to lower specked processor and less RAM and ROM? I suppose UI is more consumer-friendly than the Chinese version? Finally, will the global version be released shortly or in a few months?


----------



## ProjectionHead

humax said:


> Thank you for your input, since you appear to be the first and only one using this anywhere right now. Have you experienced any application lag or slowing down of general performance due to lower specked processor and less RAM and ROM? I suppose UI is more consumer-friendly than the Chinese version? Finally, will the global version be released shortly or in a few months?


Interface seems snappy, nothing I noticed being slower than the T1. Still can't spill the beans on the release until Formovie gives me the thumbs up.


----------



## zaselim

Do any of you guys use dynamic black as ON?
I notice something just now, Dynamic black option also doesn't work in Office Mode same as custom temp rgb sliders.
And in view mode i notice when dynamic black is ON it gives more/better shadows and highlights. Sure dark areas become more darker and loose some detail in those darker areas but very slightly and lit/light areas become more lit and the detail on those areas increase more compared to how much it loose detail on dark areas.
I felt when Dynamic Black on (in darker (than normal content "Foundation Series" ) hdr content) the scenes look great overall and adds better shadows in lit areas. But the only draw back is the detail in very bright areas like clouds in the sky or bright buildings or very bright pale skin loose the detail in non darker content like Marvel movies, enough for me to want to turn it off. So in my opinion/experience i had today when watching dynamic black turned on for the first time (same as view mode, first time) has its plus and negatives and so far for me there were more plus than negatives. I will have to try much more content to make my proper judgement.
Also so far i didnt notice any flickering on black areas dynamic black cause as some of you mentioned before.


----------



## JereyWolf

zaselim said:


> Do any of you guys use dynamic black as ON?
> I notice something just now, Dynamic black option also doesn't work in Office Mode same as custom temp rgb sliders.
> And in view mode i notice when dynamic black is ON it gives more/better shadows and highlights. Sure dark areas become more darker and loose some detail in those darker areas but very slightly and lit/light areas become more lit and the detail on those areas increase more compared to how much it loose detail on dark areas.
> I felt when Dynamic Black on (in darker (than normal content "Foundation Series" ) hdr content) the scenes look great overall and adds better shadows in lit areas. But the only draw back is the detail in very bright areas like clouds in the sky or bright buildings or very bright pale skin loose the detail in non darker content like Marvel movies, enough for me to want to turn it off. So in my opinion/experience i had today when watching dynamic black turned on for the first time (same as view mode, first time) has its plus and negatives and so far for me there were more plus than negatives. I will have to try much more content to make my proper judgement.
> Also so far i didnt notice any flickering on black areas dynamic black cause as some of you mentioned before.


I've gone back and forth with this setting. 

I feel that it actually increases shadow detail in dark scenes...but at the expense of gamma accuracy and it can really lighten dark scenes that are meant to be dark so they end up looking out of place (I'm thinking many test scenes from Dune). 
I've barely seen the effect of losing highlight detail with dynamic contrast and I really feel like it does a good job for the most part, but over time I've grown to prefer it off on the T1. The biggest factor influencing that preference is the effect that dynamic contrast has on faces. I've seen in many cases where it adds an odd looking level of depth and shadows to faces, making them look harsh and unnatural.


----------



## rjyap

zaselim said:


> Do any of you guys use dynamic black as ON?
> I notice something just now, Dynamic black option also doesn't work in Office Mode same as custom temp rgb sliders.
> And in view mode i notice when dynamic black is ON it gives more/better shadows and highlights. Sure dark areas become more darker and loose some detail in those darker areas but very slightly and lit/light areas become more lit and the detail on those areas increase more compared to how much it loose detail on dark areas.
> I felt when Dynamic Black on (in darker (than normal content "Foundation Series" ) hdr content) the scenes look great overall and adds better shadows in lit areas. But the only draw back is the detail in very bright areas like clouds in the sky or bright buildings or very bright pale skin loose the detail in non darker content like Marvel movies, enough for me to want to turn it off. So in my opinion/experience i had today when watching dynamic black turned on for the first time (same as view mode, first time) has its plus and negatives and so far for me there were more plus than negatives. I will have to try much more content to make my proper judgement.
> Also so far i didnt notice any flickering on black areas dynamic black cause as some of you mentioned before.


I had feedback to Fengmi support that dynamic black is unusable at current state as it crushing black. It doesn't lower the black level by adjusting the laser to lower power while manipulating the gamma to pull the highlight and mid tone up. Try The Batman which is a very dark movie. Once you turn on dynamic black, you can't make out some of the details in shadow.

Said if the scene have the brightest pixel at 50% @ high laser mode, the projector reduce the laser power to 50%, then manipulate the gamma to compensate the brightest pixel from 50% to 100% so that it looks the same as high laser mode while black level would drop by half. This would increase the dynamic contrast 2x hitting 6000:1


----------



## zaselim

JereyWolf said:


> I've gone back and forth with this setting.
> 
> I feel that it actually increases shadow detail in dark scenes...but at the expense of gamma accuracy and it can really lighten dark scenes that are meant to be dark so they end up looking out of place (I'm thinking many test scenes from Dune).
> I've barely seen the effect of losing highlight detail with dynamic contrast and I really feel like it does a good job for the most part, but over time I've grown to prefer it off on the T1. The biggest factor influencing that preference is the effect that dynamic contrast has on faces. I've seen in many cases where it adds an odd looking level of depth and shadows to faces, making them look harsh and unnatural.


Yes dark areas with light around them makes an ambiance and makes the dark areas lit more and you can see some more detail. I was talking about (for example) dark areas in night with no light around them become more dark and loose some light (and detail) or may be it was just that scene in the last episode of Foundations. In one scene i saw clouds in the whitish sky (outer areas/edges) lost their individuality. I loved dynamic contrast on the face the most specially in darker areas, became more apparent with good shadow detail. May be it has different effect on different dark/bright scenes, may be it depends on the content. The only bad thing which made me wanted to turn it off was on my desktop wallpaper the character's face lost most of its detail and was looked blown out but it was also brighter than it looks in Office Mode (which I use). If only they unlock the both dynamic black and RGB gain slider then it will be perfect or almost perfect. RGB slider doesn't work in Office mode and it by default from the company as they told me in the email so Dynamic Black is also turned off in Office mode by default and that is why it doesn't work when turn it on.
I gonna check Eternals now and see how it looks with Dynamic Black on, i feel it will look better.
I am making these comparison by using a clone display (T1 and TV), and with dynamic black on in view mode T1 was looking much better in most of the scenes i watched.

Edit: Ok so i just checked few scene in Eternals with Dynamic Black On and Off in view mode and I noticed that in dark scenes (night or indoors) scenes looked better with DB on and in Light Scenes (outside in day time) I lost 50 to 60% detail in shadow areas (because it made those areas more dark, almost black like) with DB on and when DB off that detail on the shadow came back. I think i will still use Office Mode as my main mode but I will now start using View Mode with DB on as an for comparison purposes.


----------



## zoomx2

My setting is always ON, brightness 56, Contrast 48. Look very good.


----------



## JereyWolf

JereyWolf said:


> I've gone back and forth with this setting.
> 
> I feel that it actually increases shadow detail in dark scenes...but at the expense of gamma accuracy and it can really lighten dark scenes that are meant to be dark so they end up looking out of place (I'm thinking many test scenes from Dune).
> I've barely seen the effect of losing highlight detail with dynamic contrast and I really feel like it does a good job for the most part, but over time I've grown to prefer it off on the T1. The biggest factor influencing that preference is the effect that dynamic contrast has on faces. I've seen in many cases where it adds an odd looking level of depth and shadows to faces, making them look harsh and unnatural.


Both of these photos are examples of what I was trying to describe.


----------



## HCMKII

HCMKII said:


> View attachment 3273778
> 
> View attachment 3273779
> 
> View attachment 3273777
> 
> 
> DV activated when a dv movie is detected


DO you have these menus OTHER and PLAY MODE after update FENGOS2.0.0.2289, please? I don't have these menus ( dv mode activated as showned)


----------



## antjes

rjyap said:


> I had feedback to Fengmi support that dynamic black is unusable at current state as it crushing black. It doesn't lower the black level by adjusting the laser to lower power while manipulating the gamma to pull the highlight and mid tone up. Try The Batman which is a very dark movie. Once you turn on dynamic black, you can't make out some of the details in shadow.
> 
> Said if the scene have the brightest pixel at 50% @ high laser mode, the projector reduce the laser power to 50%, then manipulate the gamma to compensate the brightest pixel from 50% to 100% so that it looks the same as high laser mode while black level would drop by half. This would increase the dynamic contrast 2x hitting 6000:1


Agree.
DB is not usefull, at least in my set up with white walls. I loose shadow details.
I guess Fengmi is using a trick just modifing dinamically some parameters insted of acting over laser power.
I wish I’m wrong and those in a batcave can appreciate any improvement.


----------



## fancyclown

Any opinion on this budget screen? We got the T1 in our bedroom. 

BlitzWolf BW-VS3 ALR


----------



## zoomx2

HCMKII said:


> DO you have these menus OTHER and PLAY MODE after update FENGOS2.0.0.2289, please? I don't have these menus ( dv mode activated as showned)
> View attachment 3273987


This screenshot may be run from a USB port. If HDMI ports you should not get an audio track.


----------



## humax

fancyclown said:


> Any opinion on this budget screen? We got the T1 in our bedroom.
> 
> BlitzWolf BW-VS3 ALR


My best friend has it and I helped him assemble it. It is Pet Grid as expected for the price. Tension system could be better. We could not get it completely ripple-free. However, it is cheap and to our surprise it even worked perfectly with a normal throw projector. ALR effect is good for what it costs, but do not expect Pet Crystal performance. Overall, it is a decent and honest VFM screen, if you are OK with 100".


----------



## xrayg1971

fancyclown said:


> Any opinion on this budget screen? We got the T1 in our bedroom.
> 
> BlitzWolf BW-VS3 ALR


I have the vava pet grid 100 inch and its great for me ... i have never compared pet grid to pet crystal so i dont know the diff .. but i was on a budget so i think its the best for what i could afford . you can get the vava from walmart for 500


----------



## humax

xrayg1971 said:


> you can get the vava from walmart for 500



He seems to live in Europe where this Blitzwolf screen and the Fengmi ALR are the most popular and cheap choices at 100". VAVA screens have limited availability here.


----------



## fancyclown

Yeah, we are in Europe. So that Blitzwolf is pet grid, next step up is XY pet crystal? Will think about it some more.


----------



## Ricoflashback

fancyclown said:


> Yeah, we are in Europe. So that Blitzwolf is pet grid, next step up is XY pet crystal? Will think about it some more.


If you think about it, it's a one time investment in a better screen that will last you a long, long time. Even through another projector if you decide to upgrade after five years or so. My advice is to find the best deal you can on a XY Pet Crystal screen and sit back and enjoy. You'll appreciate the picture quality, for sure.


----------



## rjyap

Just watch "The Batman" and that is one movie that I feel the black is not black enough. The whole movie is so dark and although I can make out the shadow details, really straining my eye watching the action. This movie is make for ultra high contrast projector like JVC or OLED TV. The whole movie APL couldn't be more than 5%


----------



## Joered101

rjyap said:


> Just watch "The Batman" and that is one movie that I feel the black is not black enough. The whole movie is so dark and although I can make out the shadow details, really straining my eye watching the action. This movie is make for ultra high contrast projector like JVC or OLED TV. The whole movie APL couldn't be more than 5%


ahh don't say it! About to buy haha, but that movie is ridiculously dark to be honest and this isn't going to be like a JVC, but black levels are still pretty good.


----------



## rjyap

Joered101 said:


> ahh don't say it! About to buy haha, but that movie is ridiculously dark to be honest and this isn't going to be like a JVC, but black levels are still pretty good.


😆Don't worry as you still will enjoy 99% of other movies. Just share my observation on T1 strengths and weaknesses so that everyone know what to expect. I would still rate T1 highly and well worth the price until something better come along.


----------



## Joered101

rjyap said:


> 😆Don't worry as you still will enjoy 99% of other movies. Just share my observation on T1 strengths and weaknesses so that everyone know what to expect. I would still rate T1 highly and well worth the price until something better come along.


You ever seen the optoma p2 by the way, wondering what you thought of the black levels in comparison to that... as it's what I have and I'm hoping T1 is leagues ahead....


----------



## Grazed

rjyap said:


> Just watch "The Batman" and that is one movie that I feel the black is not black enough. The whole movie is so dark and although I can make out the shadow details, really straining my eye watching the action. This movie is make for ultra high contrast projector like JVC or OLED TV. The whole movie APL couldn't be more than 5%


I watched The Batman for the first time on HBO Max when I got my T1 and I nor my family experienced any eye strain so I would not fault the projector for that. Blacks could be better though of course but it is highly watchable and better than any other UST currently besides the sibling Xiaomi C2.



Joered101 said:


> You ever seen the optoma p2 by the way, wondering what you thought of the black levels in comparison to that... as it's what I have and I'm hoping T1 is leagues ahead....


My previous projector was an Optoma P2 and yes the T1 black levels is leagues ahead. I'm not sure if you personally use the Dynamic Black settings on the P2 as with me I couldn't use it as I noticed the brightness pumping even at the first setting. If you want to see on your Optoma P2 how the T1 black levels will look in person just set your Dynamic Black setting to "3" and that is how it looks all the time without the brightness pumping and way better contrast.


----------



## Joered101

Grazed said:


> I watched The Batman for the first time on HBO Max when I got my T1 and I nor my family experienced any eye strain so I would not fault the projector for that. Blacks could be better though of course but it is highly watchable and better than any other UST currently besides the sibling Xiaomi C2.
> 
> 
> 
> My previous projector was an Optoma P2 and yes the T1 black levels is leagues ahead. I'm not sure if you personally use the Dynamic Black settings on the P2 as with me I couldn't use it as I noticed the brightness pumping even at the first setting. If you want to see on your Optoma P2 how the T1 black levels will look in person just set your Dynamic Black setting to "3" and that is how it looks all the time without the brightness pumping and way better contrast.


ah really? thats good to know thank you, however I have the defect in my P2 that means dynamic blacks don't work I just get a red image.... But leagues ahead, that's good. i'm guessing you found the P2 very grey and hazey as well then


----------



## Grazed

Joered101 said:


> ah really? thats good to know thank you, however I have the defect in my P2 that means dynamic blacks don't work I just get a red image.... But leagues ahead, that's good. i'm guessing you found the P2 very grey and hazey as well then


It's funny you bring up the red tint issue as for me I had the same thing on Dynamic Black 2 and 3 on my P2 but if you just pull up a scene with a lot of black like a space scene or something you can still see how the blacks will look and just ignore the red tint. Yes the P2 "blacks" are never really even close to ever resembling black especially in a dedicated room like I am in. The black bars always looked grey and dark scenes have a very noticeable haze to them. 

On the T1 you only see a slight haze in dark movies like The Batman if you are looking for it but overall if you have been living with the P2 then it will be a massive improvement. If all you've been watching on is OLED TVs for the last few years then it will be a bit more noticeable to you so it all depends on what display technology you are used to. I would compare the T1 to a decent IPS panel that has some backlight bleed as that is what the black bars on it remind me of vs it being almost a literal dark grey bar on the P2.


----------



## ViruZZZ

Ricoflashback said:


> Мой совет: найдите лучшее предложение на экране XY Pet Crystal, расслабьтесь и наслаждайтесь. Вы точно оцените качество изображения.


XY Pet Crystal according to the information from the sellers has a gain of 0.8: link to aliexpress XY Pet Crystal
For T1 and C2, as far as I understand, a gain of 0.6 is better suited.
I found such a screen from CHIQ with gain 0.6: link to ChiQ screen
Do you think ChiQ is better for T1/C2 than XY Pet Crystal?


----------



## Joered101

Grazed said:


> It's funny you bring up the red tint issue as for me I had the same thing on Dynamic Black 2 and 3 on my P2 but if you just pull up a scene with a lot of black like a space scene or something you can still see how the blacks will look and just ignore the red tint. Yes the P2 "blacks" are never really even close to ever resembling black especially in a dedicated room like I am in. The black bars always looked grey and dark scenes have a very noticeable haze to them.
> 
> On the T1 you only see a slight haze in dark movies like The Batman if you are looking for it but overall if you have been living with the P2 then it will be a massive improvement. If all you've been watching on is OLED TVs for the last few years then it will be a bit more noticeable to you so it all depends on what display technology you are used to. I would compare the T1 to a decent IPS panel that has some backlight bleed as that is what the black bars on it remind me of vs it being almost a literal dark grey bar on the P2.


Okay awesome, thanks man for the feedback. |I will annyoingly have a oled soon next to my t1 for daytime use... so that will be annoying comparison but i'm definitely sold. thanks man!


----------



## m0j0

I have found that with the HDFury Vrroom set at 1,000 nits, that using the built in Display Mode for daytime kids shows is really good, and the Game Mode looks great as well when they are playing on the Nintendo Switch.


----------



## slickrock

rjyap said:


> Just watch "The Batman" and that is one movie that I feel the black is not black enough. The whole movie is so dark and although I can make out the shadow details, really straining my eye watching the action. This movie is make for ultra high contrast projector like JVC or OLED TV. The whole movie APL couldn't be more than 5%


Assuming you streamed it on HBO Max, have your tried watching the movie on an OLED? The transfer leaves a lot to be desired, as it's mostly crushed and lacks shadow detail as evidenced by my LG OLED and is worse with HDR on.


----------



## humax

Batman is one of these films where you need OLED or high-end JVC blacks or something with at least 20-25000:1 native contrast. The T1 even with the lowest gain screen will have a slight haze in the dark bars and the image like already mentioned. 3000:1 is not enough for such dark content. Watching it on lesser contrast projectors, however, you will be doing the film a disservice, let alone provide yourself with a tiresome experience. I started watching it on my projector, saw it could not cope with the dark scenes and then switched to my TV. I still found the film boring in the end, but it was one of those times where I said to myself I could really use a JVC model with this one.


----------



## rjyap

Joered101 said:


> You ever seen the optoma p2 by the way, wondering what you thought of the black levels in comparison to that... as it's what I have and I'm hoping T1 is leagues ahead....


The last Optoma I owned is HD83. If the contrast is around that level, T1 is a definitely an upgrade in terms of black levels.


----------



## rjyap

slickrock said:


> Assuming you streamed it on HBO Max, have your tried watching the movie on an OLED? The transfer leaves a lot to be desired, as it's mostly crushed and lacks shadow detail as evidenced by my LG OLED and is worse with HDR on.


Didn't own an OLED. Agree the transfer quality is not really good. Feel it could use more bitrate and waiting for UHD 4K to re-watch (the storyline kind of too slow for my taste)


----------



## JereyWolf

rjyap said:


> Didn't own an OLED. Agree the transfer quality is not really good. Feel it could use more bitrate and waiting for UHD 4K to re-watch (the storyline kind of too slow for my taste)


Yeah once the disc comes out and you can run it through MadVR it'll be much better. I was really disappointed with Dune on HBO for being way too dark, but good tone mapping changes the game.


----------



## Grazed

Out of curiosity I got a digital lux meter and hooked up the P2 again since I still have it on hand to compare the black/white levels with measurements. I plugged in my Nvidia Shield Pro directly to each projector and used this black clipping test to set the brightness to the lowest while still being able to see 0.5% and this white clipping test and set the contrast to the highest while keeping the most amount of detail. I then projected a full black and then white images using YT videos and took measurements in my dedicated room. Here are the results (the measurement with a range were due to the meter constantly going between those two measurements):

*Optoma P2*
_Cinema Mode_ - Brightness: -8, Contrast: 9 (White Clipping Point: 72.1%)
100% Laser: 1.1 Lux (Black), 1310 Lux (White)
75% Laser: 0.9 Lux (Black), 1055 Lux (White)
50% Laser: 0.6 Lux (Black), 685 Lux (White)

_Reference Mode_ - Brightness: -8, Contrast: 9 (White Clipping Point: 73.1%)
100% Laser: 0.9 Lux (Black), 1105 Lux (White)
75% Laser: 0.7 Lux (Black), 840 Lux (White)
50% Laser: 0.5 Lux (Black), 565 Lux (White)

*Fengmi T1*
Brightness: 50, Contrast 49 (White Clipping Point: 74%)
_Office Mode_: 0.6 Lux (Black), 1880 Lux (White)
_View Mode_: 0.5 Lux (Black), 1580 Lux (White)
_Night Mode_: 0.3 - 0.4 Lux (Black), 1095 Lux (White)
_Silent Mode_: 0.3 Lux (Black), 1060 Lux (White)

My Current T1 Settings:
_Vertex 2 + Apple TV 4K _- Brightness: 50, Contrast: 68 (White Clipping Point: 79%)
_Night Mode_: 0.3 Lux (Black), 1040 Lux (White)

For reference the settings I used on the P2 was Cinema Mode on 100% Laser since anything lower than that was too dim for my tastes and in Reference Mode the fan noise was noticeable in quiet scenes. Dynamic Black is unusable on the P2 in any setting which is unfortunate since it does seem to close the gap a little bit if you can get over the constant brightness pumping on scene changes and that is if you had a unit that didn't have the red tint issue in those modes.


----------



## rjyap

Grazed said:


> Out of curiosity I got a digital lux meter and hooked up the P2 again since I still have it on hand to compare the black levels with measurements. I plugged in my Nvidia Shield Pro directly to each projector and used this black clipping test to set the brightness to the lowest while still being able to see 0.5%. I then projected a full black image using this video and took measurements in my dedicated room. Here are the results (the measurement with a range were due to the meter constantly going between those two measurements):
> 
> *Optoma P2*
> Cinema Mode (Brightness: -5)
> 100% Laser: 0.9 - 1 Lux
> 75% Laser: 0.7 - 0.8 Lux
> 50% Laser: 0.4 - 0.5 Lux
> Dynamic Black 1: 0.3 Lux
> Dynamic Black 2: 0.2 Lux
> Dynamic Black 3: 0 Lux
> 
> Reference Mode (Brightness: -7)
> 100% Laser: 0.8 Lux
> 75% Laser: 0.6 Lux
> 50% Laser: 0.4 Lux
> Dynamic Black 1: 0.1 - 0.2 Lux
> Dynamic Black 2: 0.1 Lux
> Dynamic Black 3: 0 Lux
> 
> *Fengmi T1*
> Brightness: 50
> Office Mode: 0.5 Lux
> View Mode: 0.4 - 0.5 Lux
> Night Mode: 0.2 - 0.3 Lux
> Silent Mode: 0.2 Lux
> 
> For reference the settings I used on the P2 was Cinema Mode on 100% Laser since anything lower than that was too dim for my tastes and in Reference Mode the fan noise was distracting in quiet scenes. On the T1 I use Night Mode as my current settings. Also Dynamic Black is unusable on the P2 in any setting which is unfortunate since it does seem to close the gap a little bit but I can't get over the constant brightness pumping on scene changes and that is if you had a unit that didn't have the red tint issue in those modes.


Can u take a reading for 100% white test pattern? That would give us a rough idea on contrast performance of Optoma vs T1. Higher brightness projector will give a blacker perceived black due to our eyes iris closing down.

I also suggested to fengmi support to implement dynamic dimming by turning the laser power to 50% while adjusting gamma to pull the highlight and midtone higher. The challenge would be color shift when turning down the laser power as proper calibration need to be perform when turning down each laser module.


----------



## Grazed

rjyap said:


> Can u take a reading for 100% white test pattern? That would give us a rough idea on contrast performance of Optoma vs T1. Higher brightness projector will give a blacker perceived black due to our eyes iris closing down.
> 
> I also suggested to fengmi support to implement dynamic dimming by turning the laser power to 50% while adjusting gamma to pull the highlight and midtone higher. The challenge would be color shift when turning down the laser power as proper calibration need to be perform when turning down each laser module.


I just updated the original post to add the white test pattern measurements. I removed the Dynamic Black measurements since during this retest I couldn't get it to activate properly, it was just staying full brightness as if it was on 100% laser. I attempted to restart the P2 and try some other troubleshooting but had no luck and gave up since the vast majority of P2 owners do not use it due to the red tint issues or the brightness pumping being too distracting.

I found a more consistent way to measure the projectors so the black measurements have changed a little bit across the board. As I was moving the meter across the screen I saw near the top had the highest measurement compared to anywhere else on the screen so I just did that this time instead of measuring in the middle.

Next time I am wearing sunglasses if I have to run some tests again because good lord office mode on a full white screen is like looking directly at the dam sun in a blacked out room


----------



## ProFragger

Grazed said:


> I watched The Batman for the first time on HBO Max when I got my T1 and I nor my family experienced any eye strain so I would not fault the projector for that. Blacks could be better though of course but it is highly watchable and better than any other UST currently besides the sibling Xiaomi C2.
> 
> 
> 
> My previous projector was an Optoma P2 and yes the T1 black levels is leagues ahead. I'm not sure if you personally use the Dynamic Black settings on the P2 as with me I couldn't use it as I noticed the brightness pumping even at the first setting. If you want to see on your Optoma P2 how the T1 black levels will look in person just set your Dynamic Black setting to "3" and that is how it looks all the time without the brightness pumping and way better contrast.


Thanks for sharing... Do you own the C2? Wondering why you're rating the T1 beneath the C2 for contrast and black levels? Appreciate your experience. Thanks.


----------



## ProFragger

For people searching for ALR screen purchases on the likes of Ali Baba, specifically the PET Crystal line... Do you guys run into a choice between CBSP and BSP, with BSP being cheaper? No one talks about that here... Anyone have any education they share with me on this topic other than... CBSP having better contrast? Is it cause it's a .6 gain vs. .8 for BSP?

Other screen choices I have seen are Telon and SnoWhite... Any experiences to share?

Lastly, a lot of sellers sell their versions of PET Crystal vs. XY screen being $300 to $400+ being more expensive... Again... Any experiences or education to share? Thanks!


----------



## Joered101

Grazed said:


> Out of curiosity I got a digital lux meter and hooked up the P2 again since I still have it on hand to compare the black/white levels with measurements. I plugged in my Nvidia Shield Pro directly to each projector and used this black clipping test to set the brightness to the lowest while still being able to see 0.5% and this white clipping test and set the contrast to the highest while keeping the most amount of detail. I then projected a full black and then white images using YT videos and took measurements in my dedicated room. Here are the results (the measurement with a range were due to the meter constantly going between those two measurements):
> 
> *Optoma P2*
> _Cinema Mode_ - Brightness: -8, Contrast: 9 (White Clipping Point: 72.1%)
> 100% Laser: 1.1 Lux (Black), 1310 Lux (White)
> 75% Laser: 0.9 Lux (Black), 1055 Lux (White)
> 50% Laser: 0.6 Lux (Black), 685 Lux (White)
> 
> _Reference Mode_ - Brightness: -8, Contrast: 9 (White Clipping Point: 73.1%)
> 100% Laser: 0.9 Lux (Black), 1105 Lux (White)
> 75% Laser: 0.7 Lux (Black), 840 Lux (White)
> 50% Laser: 0.5 Lux (Black), 565 Lux (White)
> 
> *Fengmi T1*
> Brightness: 50, Contrast 49 (White Clipping Point: 74%)
> _Office Mode_: 0.6 Lux (Black), 1880 Lux (White)
> _View Mode_: 0.5 Lux (Black), 1580 Lux (White)
> _Night Mode_: 0.3 - 0.4 Lux (Black), 1095 Lux (White)
> _Silent Mode_: 0.3 Lux (Black), 1060 Lux (White)
> 
> My Current T1 Settings:
> _Vertex 2 + Apple TV 4K _- Brightness: 50, Contrast: 68 (White Clipping Point: 79%)
> _Night Mode_: 0.3 Lux (Black), 1040 Lux (White)
> 
> For reference the settings I used on the P2 was Cinema Mode on 100% Laser since anything lower than that was too dim for my tastes and in Reference Mode the fan noise was noticeable in quiet scenes. Dynamic Black is unusable on the P2 in any setting which is unfortunate since it does seem to close the gap a little bit if you can get over the constant brightness pumping on scene changes and that is if you had a unit that didn't have the red tint issue in those modes.


Legend! Thank you! I don’t know lots about LUX measurements. But it makes it sounds like the black levels aren’t that much better than the p2 by those readings?


----------



## Grazed

ProFragger said:


> Thanks for sharing... Do you own the C2? Wondering why you're rating the T1 beneath the C2 for contrast and black levels? Appreciate your experience. Thanks.


I don’t own a C2. I wasn’t ranking it above or below one another as they are similar in contrast and black level I was just saying they are the best out of all USTs currently in those aspects. If anything the T1 has the upper hand overall due to the colors.


----------



## Grazed

Joered101 said:


> Legend! Thank you! I don’t know lots about LUX measurements. But it makes it sounds like the black levels aren’t that much better than the p2 by those readings?


There is a big difference between the black levels depending on your current settings. There is a massive contrast difference as well across the board.


----------



## humax

Fengmi T1 on FengOS 2.0, how is the DV mode? - YouTube 

FengOS 1.4 vs 2.0 DV rendering.


----------



## 3sprit

Grazed said:


> Out of curiosity I got a digital lux meter


👍


----------



## rjyap

Grazed said:


> I just updated the original post to add the white test pattern measurements. I removed the Dynamic Black measurements since during this retest I couldn't get it to activate properly, it was just staying full brightness as if it was on 100% laser. I attempted to restart the P2 and try some other troubleshooting but had no luck and gave up since the vast majority of P2 owners do not use it due to the red tint issues or the brightness pumping being too distracting.
> 
> I found a more consistent way to measure the projectors so the black measurements have changed a little bit across the board. As I was moving the meter across the screen I saw near the top had the highest measurement compared to anywhere else on the screen so I just did that this time instead of measuring in the middle.
> 
> Next time I am wearing sunglasses if I have to run some tests again because good lord office mode on a full white screen is like looking directly at the dam sun in a blacked out room


Great. The contrast you measure is around 3100 to 3500 which is excellent for DLP


----------



## JereyWolf

humax said:


> Fengmi T1 on FengOS 2.0, how is the DV mode? - YouTube
> 
> FengOS 1.4 vs 2.0 DV rendering.


The color definitely looks better, but luminance looks roughly the same. 
That's been my subjective experience too.


----------



## tnaik4

Can somone summarize plz what the latest firmware update added to this projector?
Too many pages to read through. 
Did they add a laser slider or cms / greyscale settings?
Thank you


----------



## rooterha

tnaik4 said:


> Can somone summarize plz what the latest firmware update added to this projector?
> Too many pages to read through.
> Did they add a laser slider or cms / greyscale settings?
> Thank you


No


----------



## humax

tnaik4 said:


> Did they add a laser slider or cms / greyscale settings?



By laser slider, you mean laser power dimming? If so, then no.

As for CMS/greyscale settings, only in the international version for the time being.


----------



## jeff9n

Mulan on the original FengOS 1.4 firmware under Dolby Vision. Lobster face









Mulan on the original FengOS 1.4 firmware under 4K SDR. No lobster face









Mulan on the newest FengOS 2.0 firmware under Dolby Vision. No lobster face


----------



## Joered101

jeff9n said:


> Mulan on the original FengOS 1.4 firmware under Dolby Vision. Lobster face
> View attachment 3274553
> 
> 
> Mulan on the original FengOS 1.4 firmware under 4K SDR. No lobster face
> View attachment 3274555
> 
> 
> Mulan on the newest FengOS 2.0 firmware under Dolby Vision. No lobster face
> View attachment 3274554


What screen you using btw?


----------



## jeff9n

Joered101 said:


> What screen you using btw?


It's a Silver Ticket 150-inch Grey Matte screen with 1.1 gain


----------



## Joered101

jeff9n said:


> It's a Silver Ticket 150-inch Grey Matte screen with 1.1 gain


Pull down from the top? Not for UST though right? But it works fine?


----------



## jeff9n

Joered101 said:


> Pull down from the top? Not for UST though right? But it works fine?


It's an electric roll down screen. Because it lacks tension tabs, the screen surface
is not very flat. Useable but not great for UST projector.


----------



## tnaik4

humax said:


> By laser slider, you mean laser power dimming? If so, then no.
> 
> As for CMS/greyscale settings, only in the international version for the time being.


i mean a slider to lower laser power to reduce light.
is the international version released? and is it exactly like the original but with full cms/greyscale ?


----------



## rjyap

tnaik4 said:


> i mean a slider to lower laser power to reduce light.
> is the international version released? and is it exactly like the original but with full cms/greyscale ?


You can use Display mode to reduce laser power and lower the light. Grazed had measured the total light output and black level for each mode. Brightest would be Office mode and the lowest silent mode.

This give me an idea how to make "The Batman" looks better. I'll experiment using Silent mode and use MadVR DTM to pull the highlight up.


----------



## JackB

jeff9n said:


> It's an electric roll down screen. Because it lacks tension tabs, the screen surface
> is not very flat. Useable but not great for UST projector.


I have a tensioned ST white 1.0 electricr rolldown screen and it worked fine with a UST when I had it.


----------



## gen_x

ProFragger said:


> For people searching for ALR screen purchases on the likes of Ali Baba, specifically the PET Crystal line... Do you guys run into a choice between CBSP and BSP, with BSP being cheaper? No one talks about that here... Anyone have any education they share with me on this topic other than... CBSP having better contrast? Is it cause it's a .6 gain vs. .8 for BSP?
> 
> Other screen choices I have seen are Telon and SnoWhite... Any experiences to share?
> 
> Lastly, a lot of sellers sell their versions of PET Crystal vs. XY screen being $300 to $400+ being more expensive... Again... Any experiences or education to share? Thanks!


I would like to know this as well. I had bought a long throw alr thinking it could work for two setups; my T1 and epson traditional projector and I sure was wrong. T1 was barely watchable much too dark on the alr and my 10 year old 5010 looked way better. My T1 is currently shelved until I can find something that will work well on a 133" screen . Would like to know the differences .


----------



## rooterha

gen_x said:


> I would like to know this as well. I had bought a long throw alr thinking it could work for two setups; my T1 and epson traditional projector and I sure was wrong. T1 was barely watchable much too dark on the alr and my 10 year old 5010 looked way better. My T1 is currently shelved until I can find something that will work well on a 133" screen . Would like to know the differences .


Nm misread


----------



## humax

rjyap said:


> Brightest would be Office mode and the lowest silent mode.




In other pixel-shifting DLPs silent/eco mode disengages pixel-shifting process itself and reverts to projector's native DMD resolution aka 1080p. Is this also the case with the T1?


----------



## humax

gen_x said:


> I would like to know this as well. I had bought a long throw alr thinking it could work for two setups; my T1 and epson traditional projector and I sure was wrong. T1 was barely watchable on the alr and my 10 year old 5010 looked way better



Generally, you cannot use an ALR screen, especially the Pet Crystal variety, with a different type of projector. However, there are exceptions like grey screens or some pet grids. I have already mentioned that the Blitzwolf ALR screen worked perfectly with both a Wemax A300 and also a long throw Acer DLP model. There are probably some other Pet Grids that work the same too.


----------



## shack96

FWIW I purchased the 115" Akia screen from the largest online US retailer. The screen assembly went well, though I did have some issues with springs flying off during the setup. My daughter and I got it all put together and mounted on the wall and it looks great. Turns out, however, the media room we added on a former balcony that we closed in has a very uneven floor. I will deal with that and get the projector leveled and share some pics. The room has 3 60"x60" windows so it is primarily for nighttime viewing but I did order some blackout shades for light control down the road. I have been lurking on this thread for quite some time and appreciate all the contributors and the knowledgebase you have assembled here...thank you all for you time and dedication.


----------



## rjyap

humax said:


> In other pixel-shifting DLPs silent/eco mode disengages pixel-shifting process itself and reverts to projector's native DMD resolution aka 1080p. Is this also the case with the T1?


Just try out Brightness mode set to "silent". Looking at the test pattern, pixel-shifting still engage. Also just to answer my own experiment, by turning down the brightness to silent and set MadVR maximum nits to lower value (I change from 140 to 100 nits), "The Batman" does look better with darker black floor. If anyone watching this movie, I suggest switch to silent mode and turn off dynamic contrast. Now I really hope that Fengmi can implement dynamic contrast algo that will switch the brightness mode based on overall screen APL and brightest pixel and adjust the gamma according to the scene by scene.


----------



## Pismo Mac

Hi everyone, just got myself a T1 as well, came from a Wemax A300. My Wemax A300 is probably on its last legs as white vertical lines are appearing on half of the screen. I have finished reading 252 pages of this thread and tried the various settings suggested. It’s a lot of information to digest and as I got closer to the last page, I was hoping to find a solution to the red tinge and extreme vividness in colours for DV. Thanks to m0j0 and lattiboy for the various settings.

My setup: ATV4K (latest edition with the silver remote) into Denon X8500H AVR into T1. I just upgraded my HDMI cables to HDMI 2.1. T1 projects onto a wall, I’ll be getting an ALR screen soon, it will either be a Vividstorm floor rising or a Fresnel fixed screen. 

T1 is on the latest firmware 2.0.0.2289, Brightness at View Mode, Play Settings at HDMI 2.0. 

I tried ATV4k‘s current video settings are 4K SDR, YCbCr, Chroma 4:4:4 and Match Dynamic Range. The reds and blues are really enhanced and vivid for DV materials streamed from Apple TV+, Disney+, Netflix so much so that they seem unnatural. Human faces look rosy and skies are really blue. This is the best I could achieve. I tried Dolby Vision, 4K HDR with no avail.

A few options here: 

1. pack the T1 and put it back in a box until there’s an update and revert to the Wemax A300 until it conks out;
2. bear with the unnatural vividness while watching DV material;
3. disable DV, switch to 4K HDR, Chroma 4:2:2 and switch off Match Content on ATV4K and use the Custom Image Parameters (what I am doing now) on T1; or
4. get a HDFury device, apply the settings suggested by m0j0 in his various posts and use the T1 as intended with DV enabled on ATV4K. 

If anyone else has a similar setup and managed to “tame” the T1, I am prepared to try the new settings.


----------



## lattiboy

Pismo Mac said:


> Hi everyone, just got myself a T1 as well, came from a Wemax A300. My Wemax A300 is probably on its last legs as white vertical lines are appearing on half of the screen. I have finished reading 252 pages of this thread and tried the various settings suggested. It’s a lot of information to digest and as I got closer to the last page, I was hoping to find a solution to the red tinge and extreme vividness in colours for DV. Thanks to m0j0 and lattiboy for the various settings.
> 
> My setup: ATV4K (latest edition with the silver remote) into Denon X8500H AVR into T1. I just upgraded my HDMI cables to HDMI 2.1. T1 projects onto a wall, I’ll be getting an ALR screen soon, it will either be a Vividstorm floor rising or a Fresnel fixed screen.
> 
> T1 is on the latest firmware 2.0.0.2289, Brightness at View Mode, Play Settings at HDMI 2.0.
> 
> I tried ATV4k‘s current video settings are 4K SDR, YCbCr, Chroma 4:4:4 and Match Dynamic Range. The reds and blues are really enhanced and vivid for DV materials streamed from Apple TV+, Disney+, Netflix so much so that they seem unnatural. Human faces look rosy and skies are really blue. This is the best I could achieve. I tried Dolby Vision, 4K HDR with no avail.
> 
> A few options here:
> 
> 1. pack the T1 and put it back in a box until there’s an update and revert to the Wemax A300 until it conks out;
> 2. bear with the unnatural vividness while watching DV material;
> 3. disable DV, switch to 4K HDR, Chroma 4:2:2 and switch off Match Content on ATV4K and use the Custom Image Parameters (what I am doing now) on T1; or
> 4. get a HDFury device, apply the settings suggested by m0j0 in his various posts and use the T1 as intended with DV enabled on ATV4K.
> 
> If anyone else has a similar setup and managed to “tame” the T1, I am prepared to try the new settings.


I would suggest an Hd Fury Arcana on your Denon. $250 and you’ll have an incredible picture with no red tint. I will be using one for the foreseeable future, rebel if DV processing improves natively.


----------



## Pismo Mac

lattiboy said:


> I would suggest an Hd Fury Arcana on your Denon. $250 and you’ll have an incredible picture with no red tint. I will be using one for the foreseeable future, rebel if DV processing improves natively.


Thanks, I am leaning towards that. The Vertex2 is back ordered with no ETA. I can pre-order and get the Arcana within a week as stocks are coming in, or I can get a VRRoom immediately.


----------



## ProFragger

Does anyone here have my content use case?:

1. Consume DV, HDR movies from HBO, Disney, Amazon, Netflix etc. 

2. Watch Live sports over IPTV, mostly maxing out at 1080 or 2K, at max. 

I don't use Plex or BluRay players, nor do I intend to. Can someone tell me if for this kind of content, you're using an Android device like a Shield or Google Chromecast etc and are able to push LLDV all the time to use an HDFury device to maximize your watching experience? 

Appreciate any help... I'm not really liking having to go Roku or AT4K for this... Thank you all!


----------



## dami1337

Pismo Mac said:


> My setup: ATV4K (latest edition with the silver remote) into Denon X8500H AVR into T1. I just upgraded my HDMI cables to HDMI 2.1. T1 projects onto a wall, I’ll be getting an ALR screen soon, it will either be a Vividstorm floor rising or a Fresnel fixed screen.
> 
> T1 is on the latest firmware 2.0.0.2289, Brightness at View Mode, Play Settings at HDMI 2.0.
> 
> I tried ATV4k‘s current video settings are 4K SDR, YCbCr, Chroma 4:4:4 and Match Dynamic Range. The reds and blues are really enhanced and vivid for DV materials streamed from Apple TV+, Disney+, Netflix so much so that they seem unnatural. Human faces look rosy and skies are really blue. This is the best I could achieve. I tried Dolby Vision, 4K HDR with no avail.


Have same setup with Denon 4400h.

Was able to get via Apple TV -> AVR -> T1 4k Dolby Vision workable only by trying all AVR HDMI ports and on T1 using HDMI3 input. Other port combinations didn’t work out for DV in case anybody has similar issue.

On T1 HDMI 2.1 is selected. No red tint on latest firmware and great picture out of the box.

So overall streaming via Apple TV in 4k DV connected through AVR.


----------



## antjes

shack96 said:


> I ordered mine from NBL and when shipping was set up, they had an owner who bought one in Canada but wanted to return it. They asked if I'd prefer the open box with a quicker delivery and I said yes. They added gave a $200 discount and I got my projector much sooner. They were very communicative before all that about when it would be in my hands and quick to respond to my questions.


In my experience with NBL, outstanding shop.


----------



## Pismo Mac

dami1337 said:


> Have same setup with Denon 4400h.
> 
> Was able to get via Apple TV -> AVR -> T1 4k Dolby Vision workable only by trying all AVR HDMI ports and on T1 using HDMI3 input. Other port combinations didn’t work out for DV in case anybody has similar issue.
> 
> On T1 HDMI 2.1 is selected. No red tint on latest firmware and great picture out of the box.
> 
> So overall streaming via Apple TV in 4k DV connected through AVR.


Thanks for this. My ATV is plugged into HDMI 6 on the Denon, T1 is connected from T1’s HDMI 3 input to HDMI Out Monitor 1 on the Denon (this is the only HDMI Out with ARC on the Denon). All cables are HDMI 2.1 cables. I am not getting what you’re getting. Selecting HDMI 2.1 on the T1 just makes everything really red and blue. 

i am not sure if I am missing out any other settings on the Denon or the T1.


----------



## dami1337

Pismo Mac said:


> Thanks for this.  My ATV is plugged into HDMI 6 on the Denon, T1 is connected from T1’s HDMI 3 input to HDMI Out Monitor 1 on the Denon (this is the only HDMI Out with ARC on the Denon). All cables are HDMI 2.1 cables. I am not getting what you’re getting. Selecting HDMI 2.1 on the T1 just makes everything really red and blue.
> 
> i am not sure if I am missing out any other settings on the Denon or the T1.


Do you see inside the ATV display selection screen 4k Dolby Vision as an option? And when you select it, does it switch to this mode and stay on it?

For me some HDMI out/in combos didn’t even show Dolby Vision or when selected, ATV reverted back to prior resolution until I tested other HDMI ports.

Would suggest to test other HDMI out/in combinations.

Also factory reset might help?


----------



## Pismo Mac

dami1337 said:


> Do you see inside the ATV display selection screen 4k Dolby Vision as an option? And when you select it, does it switch to this mode and stay on it?
> 
> For me some HDMI out/in combos didn’t even show Dolby Vision or when selected, ATV reverted back to prior resolution until I tested other HDMI ports.
> 
> Would suggest to test other HDMI out/in combinations.
> 
> Also factory reset might help?


I’ll try and do a factory reset to the T1.

Under the Video settings for ATV, I can select 4K Dolby Vision as an option. Everything turns out really red and blue If I do that. So now, it is set at 4K HDR with No Dynamic Match for content or frame rate. 

If I set Video to 4K HDR on the ATV with Dynamic Match for Content and play a DV enabled stream, the DV logo will appear, and again the reds and blues will be unnatural.


----------



## g3m

Pismo Mac said:


> I’ll try and do a factory reset to the T1.
> 
> Under the Video settings for ATV, I can select 4K Dolby Vision as an option. Everything turns out really red and blue If I do that. So now, it is set at 4K HDR with No Dynamic Match for content or frame rate.
> 
> If I set Video to 4K HDR on the ATV with Dynamic Match for Content and play a DV enabled stream, the DV logo will appear, and again the reds and blues will be unnatural.


Did you configure your Denon with "4K Signal Format" at "Enhanced"? The default is Standard (4K 60p 4:2:0 8 bit) vs Enhanced (4K 60p 4:4:4, 4:2:2 or 4K 60p 4:2:0 10 bit). See 4K Signal Format AVR-X8500H Otherwise, I would try to plug the projector directly into the ATV and see if the problem is still there. That would eliminate any problem with an equipment (e.g. AVR) in the chain.


----------



## zoomx2

g3m said:


> Did you configure your Denon with "4K Signal Format" at "Enhanced"? The default is Standard (4K 60p 4:2:0 8 bit) vs Enhanced (4K 60p 4:4:4, 4:2:2 or 4K 60p 4:2:0 10 bit). See 4K Signal Format AVR-X8500H Otherwise, I would try to plug the projector directly into the ATV and see if the problem is still there. That would eliminate any problem with an equipment (e.g. AVR) in the chain.


I would connect ATV directly to T1 HDMI directly test all setting first. Don’t force DV ON unless you are using additional video processor. You should leave it Auto. If the content is not HDR or live sport game, force HDR /DV makes it worse. If everything goes well then plug in to Denon.


----------



## rooterha

Pismo Mac said:


> Thanks, I am leaning towards that. The Vertex2 is back ordered with no ETA. I can pre-order and get the Arcana within a week as stocks are coming in, or I can get a VRRoom immediately.


The conclusion I came to is no matter what projector I'm using, the HDFury devices will provide more customization and the ability to push the projector farther, so it's a worthy investment.


----------



## ACE844

ProFragger said:


> Does anyone here have my content use case?:
> 
> 1. Consume DV, HDR movies from HBO, Disney, Amazon, Netflix etc.
> 
> 2. Watch Live sports over IPTV, mostly maxing out at 1080 or 2K, at max.
> 
> I don't use Plex or BluRay players, nor do I intend to. Can someone tell me if for this kind of content, you're using an Android device like a Shield or Google Chromecast etc and are able to push LLDV all the time to use an HDFury device to maximize your watching experience?
> 
> Appreciate any help... I'm not really liking having to go Roku or AT4K for this... Thank you all!


My use-case is similar to your use case with the T1 and shield pro. Shield pro won't push LLDV all the time but does push HDR all the time and (as I understand how it would work) with an HDFURY VROOM/VERTEX could do so. I'm happy so far with my T1 in this setup. I do a lot of UHD streaming of various content and have not had any issues with it.


----------



## Joered101

What are the perks to buying a international T1 while in UK? Will I get better access to maintenance should I have any issues?


----------



## ProFragger

ACE844 said:


> My use-case is similar to your use case with the T1 and shield pro. Shield pro won't push LLDV all the time but does push HDR all the time and (as I understand how it would work) with an HDFURY VROOM/VERTEX could do so. I'm happy so far with my T1 in this setup. I do a lot of UHD streaming of various content and have not had any issues with it.


Thank you for sharing, friend. Without the Shield pushing LLDV all the time, what functionality and viewing experience you think we'd be losing out on, if we went with something like Roku or Firestick 4K?

Thank you again for addressing my question!


----------



## ACE844

ProFragger said:


> Thank you for sharing, friend. Without the Shield pushing LLDV all the time, what functionality and viewing experience you think we'd be losing out on, if we went with something like Roku or Firestick 4K?
> 
> Thank you again for addressing my question!


In my opinion, I don't think I'm missing out on anything with the shield pushing 422 12 bit BT 2020 all the time instead of LLDV. I still get DV/LLDV on content which has it and the shield pro IMHLO does a better job than both of those units with tone mapping, etc...Unless I misunderstood your question?


----------



## humax

Joered101 said:


> What are the perks to buying a international T1 while in UK? Will I get better access to maintenance should I have any issues?



1. CMS should you choose to have it professionally calibrated. Not everyone wants to buy a Vertex or mess around with the settings all the time. I certainly don't.

2. International warranty. Do not know what it means in practice though. Probably, no real difference.

3. Official android 11/more user friendly. No annoying Chinese stuff.

I am also waiting for the international version as long as it is not too expensive in comparison to the Chinese T1.


----------



## Vcnzo

Hi there, my bat-level bionic ears and I were wondering how silent this machine is.
You're awesome.


----------



## Brajesh

humax said:


> I am also waiting for the international version as long as it is not too expensive in comparison to the Chinese T1.


What is going on with the Int'l version--thought it was supposed to be released already?!?


----------



## Grazed

Vcnzo said:


> Hi there, my bat-level bionic ears and I were wondering how silent this machine is.
> You're awesome.


It all depends on where you are placing it and how far you are sitting. I'm in a dedicated room with a pretty low noise floor and I sit about 9 feet away. The fans themselves are pretty quiet in every mode besides Office brightness mode. The unit does have a low pitched hum that doesn't go away no matter the brightness mode but it is not bothersome to me but everyone has their own tolerance. I did notice a very faint high pitched noise in View & Office mode that goes away in Night & Silent mode so that is why I personally use Night mode currently. View mode is also a bit too bright during bright scenes in my room while Night mode is a perfect balance.


----------



## humax

Brajesh said:


> What is going on with the Int'l version--thought it was supposed to be released already?!?



Who knows? ProjectionHead and NothingButLabel already got their samples, so this is a real model, but on the other hand it is not even available for pre-order yet. I guess we 'll know soon enough about pricing and details.


----------



## zoomx2

ProFragger said:


> Thank you for sharing, friend. Without the Shield pushing LLDV all the time, what functionality and viewing experience you think we'd be losing out on, if we went with something like Roku or Firestick 4K?
> 
> Thank you again for addressing my question!


I’m using fire stick 4K max directly to T1. With the lastest firmware it is very good already. If you want above and beyond then go for Vertax or other processor units.


----------



## lattiboy

Just hooked up the AppleTV 4K 2nd generation and man is it good with the Arcana! Switched my nits from 300 to 600 and increased contrast. Getting 76% or more from every color clipping bar except white, which is a first, 

Really wild how different the processing is on the ATV4K vs the Roku Ultra. Much more to my liking.


----------



## m0j0

lattiboy said:


> Just hooked up the AppleTV 4K 2nd generation and man is it good with the Arcana! Switched my nits from 300 to 600 and increased contrast. Getting 76% or more from every color clipping bar except white, which is a first,
> 
> Really wild how different the processing is on the ATV4K vs the Roku Ultra. Much more to my liking.


Interesting. Any blow out with whites? That’s where I found limitations in my earlier tests between the ATV4K and Roku Ultra, but that was primarily with 110 nits. Don’t recall if I did much testing at 500 or 600 nits.


----------



## Grazed

lattiboy said:


> Just hooked up the AppleTV 4K 2nd generation and man is it good with the Arcana! Switched my nits from 300 to 600 and increased contrast. Getting 76% or more from every color clipping bar except white, which is a first,
> 
> Really wild how different the processing is on the ATV4K vs the Roku Ultra. Much more to my liking.


Yea the whites start to go first if you continue pushing the nits depending on your contrast level. I found that 200 nits is great for me and everything is 78%-79% on the color clipping chart. 1000 nits is also good with a lower contrast setting ~50 or so. Overall imo they look about the same but the picture will be dimmer so I prefer the 200 nits and 66-68 contrast.


----------



## Grazed

I made a YouTube playlist of calibration test patterns that I found I use most often when testing different settings on my streaming devices. It includes the color clipping pattern you are talking about if anyone else wants to test their settings.


----------



## jakechoy

lattiboy said:


> Just hooked up the AppleTV 4K 2nd generation and man is it good with the Arcana! Switched my nits from 300 to 600 and increased contrast. Getting 76% or more from every color clipping bar except white, which is a first,
> 
> Really wild how different the processing is on the ATV4K vs the Roku Ultra. Much more to my liking.


aw man..i just ordered a Roku Ultra..but won't be adding any processing box for it. apple TV has been having issues with HBOmax; hence switching it out for the Roku.


----------



## ProFragger

ACE844 said:


> In my opinion, I don't think I'm missing out on anything with the shield pushing 422 12 bit BT 2020 all the time instead of LLDV. I still get DV/LLDV on content which has it and the shield pro IMHLO does a better job than both of those units with tone mapping, etc...Unless I misunderstood your question?


Thanks Ace.. No you answered my question, beautifully, thank you. I'm probably the one who doesn't know what question to ask as I've never owned a single projector and probably have never really used, tweaked and learned about the HDR like content. As I stated earlier, but use case includes only watching DV or HDR10 content with Dolby Atmos on the streaming services that allow it. OR, just use my IPTV that is no more than 1080 or 2K max with likely no native HDR data flowing to watch love sports. That's it.

The question I was struggling with is that what Streamer or box would allow me to achieve this especially since people have proven that using proper tone mapping is required for breath taking status on that baby. So, that means HDFury. And for HDFury to do its thing, it needs LLDV data flowing in from the T1, correct? And if so, I really wanted to use an official Android TV device that could do this for me.

However, people prefer Roku TV ultra or even Firestick 4K for this. Possibly due to their lower nits results on the whites?

So my question to you was... Are you, if anything, losing out on any experience using an Nvidia Shield Pro over Roku Ultra or Firestick 4K?

Hope that made more sense? 😊

Thank you for your help!


----------



## ProFragger

zoomx2 said:


> I’m using fire stick 4K max directly to T1. With the lastest firmware it is very good already. If you want above and beyond then go for Vertax or other processor units.
> View attachment 3275084


Thank you so much zoomx2! Do you know if any 4K stick from Firestick family can force LLDV all the time?

And, can you post any pictures of you watching something in Dolby Vision or HDR10 using just the T1? What are your thoughts? Thank you!


----------



## m0j0

Been awhile since I posted some settings. Went back to 150 nits on the DV tab and was able to get all colors to 78% or higher on the color clipping chart, with the exception of white, which was up to 75/76%.

Brightness Mode: Night Mode
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 52
Contrast: 73
Saturation: 38
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 51
Color: Custom
Red: 1133
Green: 1020
Blue: 977


----------



## zoomx2

ProFragger said:


> Thank you so much zoomx2! Do you know if any 4K stick from Firestick family can force LLDV all the time?
> 
> And, can you post any pictures of you watching something in Dolby Vision or HDR10 using just the T1? What are your thoughts? Thank you!


As I said you should not force DV/ HDR on without using additional digital processor. The pic I posted previously is DV using ATV app. Set it Auto If T1 detects the signal it will turn on DV and DA.
It is HDR in YouTube


----------



## Pismo Mac

g3m said:


> Did you configure your Denon with "4K Signal Format" at "Enhanced"? The default is Standard (4K 60p 4:2:0 8 bit) vs Enhanced (4K 60p 4:4:4, 4:2:2 or 4K 60p 4:2:0 10 bit). See 4K Signal Format AVR-X8500H Otherwise, I would try to plug the projector directly into the ATV and see if the problem is still there. That would eliminate any problem with an equipment (e.g. AVR) in the chain.


Thank for highlighting this. I checked, and it is at “Enhanced”.


----------



## m0j0

Some pictures from tonight (using Roku Ultra with LLDV and the HDFury Vrroom with DV tab set to 150)


----------



## Joered101

Anyone done any Colour checker charts for saturation reference points. Would love to see how this projector performs at that with the new firmware. Accuracy is key! How would it stack up against a 140 point chart.


----------



## rjyap

Will do one when I have time. SDR BT 709 is definitely too wide and need correction. Fengmi should include rec 709 or rec 2020 gamut in color space selection.


----------



## Pismo Mac

zoomx2 said:


> I would connect ATV directly to T1 HDMI directly test all setting first. Don’t force DV ON unless you are using additional video processor. You should leave it Auto. If the content is not HDR or live sport game, force HDR /DV makes it worse. If everything goes well then plug in to Denon.


Thanks for suggesting this. I did what you suggested, and it kinda worked. My conclusion: I suspect it has to do with the inconsistent way that ATV4K processes DV enabled streams. Having a device Iike HDFury calibrates and pushes out a consistent colour scheme to the T1. Here are the details.

Before I started, I thought I’d google to check again to see if there were similar issues faced by other ATV4K users. I found a discussion thread on discussions.apple.com on how some ATV4K 2nd Gen users had Atmos audio drop out issues when watching Atmos enabled streams from Netflix, Disney+ etc, but ATV4K 1st Gen users did not face these issues. While it was somewhat unrelated to the issues I faced here, I decided to use my ATV4K 1st Gen (ATV4K1G) to test the T1 first, and followed up with another test using the ATV4K 2nd Gen (ATV4K2G). ATV4K2G was the ATV that initially connected to the T1. ATV4K1G does not support HDMI2.1, only HDMI2.0a. 

Streamed videos used:

1. From Apple TV+, Transformers 1, Chapter 8, desert scene. This movie is DV and Dolby Atmos encoded
2. From Netflix, 6 Underground, car chase when the movie starts. This movie is DV and Dolby Atmos encoded.
3. From Netflix, Brooklyn Nine 9, any episode. No DV or Dolby Atmos encoding for thIs series. 

During streaming, I would know when DV is enabled because I could see the DV logo appearing at the bottom right corner of the screen. 

*ATV4K1G*

Connected directly to HDMI3 on T1 using a HDMI2.1 cable.

1. With Dolby Vision enabled in the Video settings, the main ATV display (home page and menus) was totally washed out, very bright, very white. Fiddling around with the HDMI settings on the T1 didn’t change anything (switched between HDMI1.4, HDMI2.0, HDMI2.1 and Auto). I didn’t stream any videos with these settings. 

2. With 4K HDR enabled in the Video settings, the main ATV was viewable, but slightly dimmed. Dynamic Range and Frame Rate were chosen to Match Content. HDMI settings on T1 set to HDMI2.0. Dolby Vision logo was displayed when streaming DV enabled streams from Netflix and Disney+. Colours were natural. For Transformers, sand was white, sky was blue, faces were natural with a tinge of red where needed. Likewise for 6 Underground for Brooklyn Nine 9.

3. With 4K SDR enabled in the Video settings, the main display ATV was at its best. Dynamic Range and Frame Rate were chosen to Match Content. HDMI settings on T1 set to HDMI2.0. Dolby Vision logo was displayed when streaming DV enabled streams from Netflix and Disney+. Colours were natural. For Transformers, sand was white, sky was blue, faces were natural with a tinge of red where needed. Likewise for 6 Underground for Brooklyn Nine 9. *This was the setting I eventually kept after connecting ATV4KG1 to my Denon.*

I was able to reproduce the same results when I reconnected the ATV4KG1 to my Denon. 

*ATV4K2G*

Connected directly to HDMI3 on T1 using a HDMI2.1 cable.

1. With Dolby Vision enabled in the Video settings, the colours on the main ATV display were really vivid. Fiddling around with the HDMI settings on the T1, no change when switched to HDMI2.1, less vivid when switched to HDMI2.0 and HDMI1.4, but vivid nevertheless. The white desert sand had a greenish tinge in Transformers, faces were pinkish/reddish, blues were enhanced. Likewise for the car chase scene in 6 Underground, the blue uniform of the nuns really stood out. Reddish faces in Brooklyn Nine 9 as well. 

2. With 4K HDR enabled in the Video settings, Dynamic Range and Frame Rate were set to Match Content. The colours on the main ATV screen were less vivid, but still reddish nevertheless. Colours on the main ATV screen were best using the HDMI2.0 setting on the T1. At HDMI2.0 setting on the T1, for Transformers, the white sand was white, faces were less red, but red nevertheless, likewise for 6 Underground, watchable, but not natural. Only Brooklyn Nine 9 appeared natural. At HDMI2.1 setting on the T1, it looked as though I had Dolby Vision enabled in the Video settings. 

3. With 4K SDR enabled in the video settings, Dynamic Range and Frame set to Match Content, main ATV screen looked best at this setting using the HDMI2.0 setting on the T1. For streaming, the results were similar to the 4K HDR settings. 

I was able to reproduce the same results when I reconnected the ATV4KG2 to my Denon. 

*Conclusion*

I switched out the ATV4KG2 and replaced it with the ATV4KG1, connected to the Denon with a HDMI2.1 cable, into the T1 within another HDMI2.1 cable with a HDMI2.0 setting on the T1, and ATV4KG1 video settings at 4K SDR with Dynamic Range and Frame Rate set to Match Content. This combination gave me the most consistent colours for the videos that I streamed. Having said that, when I tried streaming Transformers 4 with this combination, Optimus Prime’s red and blue bodywork looked really vivid, and Mark Wahlberg’s face was a little reddish, so there you go … so much for trying to achieve some consistency. Unfortunately, I am not technically inclined to understand or explain why/how all this happened, my most sophisticated tools are my eyes, so if things looked better/worse, its just what I can see. My reference point would be the Wemax A300 I had, which did not support Dolby Vision. I had expected colours to be more natural with DV enabled, and no more fiddling with video settings other than a 1 time calibration on the projector during the initial setup. I suppose a HDFury device would be needed if things do not work out of the box and consistency is required when using the ATV4K and when you place the HDFury device in the chain between the AVR and the projector, you will consistently get the calibrated colours at the projector end.


----------



## ACE844

ProFragger said:


> Thanks Ace.. No you answered my question, beautifully, thank you. I'm probably the one who doesn't know what question to ask as I've never owned a single projector and probably have never really used, tweaked and learned about the HDR like content. As I stated earlier, but use case includes only watching DV or HDR10 content with Dolby Atmos on the streaming services that allow it. OR, just use my IPTV that is no more than 1080 or 2K max with likely no native HDR data flowing to watch love sports. That's it.


I'm new to having a PJ and a lot of this stuff as well.

I've had my 3 shield pros for a year and a half. I use my shield pros in a similar fashion and also for other things. It's also able to handle some gaming, etc... for my kids. We've been using it in this fashion for more than a year.It will do everything you described above and you can choose to force a higher color space and or different display resolutions full time. It does not allow you to force Dolby vision/LLDV all of the time. It does an excellent job with tone mapping and other tasks. I may be incorrect but it seems when taken in isolation in this instance looking only at the constant LLDVbeing constantly on. It 'seems' that you're only squeezing another additional 5% or so more out of the 95% of the way you get with the shield.

There are other benefits to the HDfury as well, which are not considered in the above sentence, which includes using it as a switch, matrix, arc and earc, and many more....

Is it (Shield pro) better than a firestick 4k or Roku ultra or ATV. It's extremely subjective and subject to your own budget, use case, bias and analysis. From my reading here over the last year, the latest-gen ATV seems to be the 'closest competitor' to the shield pro. I went with the shield pro because we're not invested in the Apple ecosystem at the moment so the shield pro 'fits' into our tech and user comfort ecosystem.



ProFragger said:


> The question I was struggling with is what Streamer or box would allow me to achieve this especially since people have proven that using proper tone mapping is required for breathtaking status on that baby. So, that means HDFury. And for HDFury to do its thing, it needs LLDV data flowing in from the T1, correct? And if so, I really wanted to use an official Android TV device that could do this for me.


The connection chain would be shield-->HDFURY-->T1. My basic understanding is that the fury would trick the shield using EDID data into thinking it is connected to a DV device and it would enable the HDFURY to ensure reference color set points and would upconvert the signal to LLDV and feed constant LLDV to the T1



ProFragger said:


> \
> So my question to you was... Are you, if anything, losing out on any experience using an Nvidia Shield Pro over Roku Ultra or Firestick 4K?
> 
> Hope that made more sense? 😊
> 
> Thank you for your help!


I think I answered this previously and in a different way here. If there are any gaps or if you have more questions I'm happy to try to help.


----------



## m0j0

A few more pics from last night (just a reminder that my camera oversaturates blue, so when you see really oversaturated blue in the pics, just know it doesn't really look like that).


----------



## Joered101

rjyap said:


> Will do one when I have time. SDR BT 709 is definitely too wide and need correction. Fengmi should include rec 709 or rec 2020 gamut in color space selection.


Ah amazing so slightly over saturated. When would you get the time I know it takes ages, would love to know before I pre order this international version. Thanks so much!


----------



## zaselim

Grazed said:


> I made a YouTube playlist of calibration test patterns that I found I use most often when testing different settings on my streaming devices. It includes the color clipping pattern you are talking about if anyone else wants to test their settings.


so what do i look for in the black clipping hdr test (2nd video)? For me the 64 "0%" (ref black) is where I don't see the blinking (grey). The blinking I see on 68 "0.5" is very dark but I can see it very clearly.


----------



## Grazed

zaselim said:


> so what do i look for in the black clipping hdr test (2nd video)? For me the 64 "0%" (ref black) is where I don't see the blinking (grey). The blinking I see on 68 "0.5" is very dark but I can see it very clearly.


Seems like you are already on the right track. On that clipping chart test you just adjust your brightness setting until you barely see 0.5%. I usually adjust it to where I do not see it blinking and then slowly increase the brightness until it finally starts blinking at 0.5%. Keep in mind if you are adjusting your white clipping chart (contrast) I always go back to the black clipping chart (brightness) to make sure I do not need to adjust it further.


----------



## jeff9n

Pismo Mac said:


> Thanks for suggesting this. I did what you suggested, and it kinda worked. My conclusion: I suspect it has to do with the inconsistent way that ATV4K processes DV enabled streams. Having a device Iike HDFury calibrates and pushes out a consistent colour scheme to the T1. Here are the details.
> 
> Before I started, I thought I’d google to check again to see if there were similar issues faced by other ATV4K users. I found a discussion thread on discussions.apple.com on how some ATV4K 2nd Gen users had Atmos audio drop out issues when watching Atmos enabled streams from Netflix, Disney+ etc, but ATV4K 1st Gen users did not face these issues. While it was somewhat unrelated to the issues I faced here, I decided to use my ATV4K 1st Gen (ATV4K1G) to test the T1 first, and followed up with another test using the ATV4K 2nd Gen (ATV4K2G). ATV4K2G was the ATV that initially connected to the T1. ATV4K1G does not support HDMI2.1, only HDMI2.0a.
> 
> Streamed videos used:
> 
> 1. From Apple TV+, Transformers 1, Chapter 8, desert scene. This movie is DV and Dolby Atmos encoded
> 2. From Netflix, 6 Underground, car chase when the movie starts. This movie is DV and Dolby Atmos encoded.
> 3. From Netflix, Brooklyn Nine 9, any episode. No DV or Dolby Atmos encoding for thIs series.
> 
> During streaming, I would know when DV is enabled because I could see the DV logo appearing at the bottom right corner of the screen.
> 
> *ATV4K1G*
> 
> Connected directly to HDMI3 on T1 using a HDMI2.1 cable.
> 
> 1. With Dolby Vision enabled in the Video settings, the main ATV display (home page and menus) was totally washed out, very bright, very white. Fiddling around with the HDMI settings on the T1 didn’t change anything (switched between HDMI1.4, HDMI2.0, HDMI2.1 and Auto). I didn’t stream any videos with these settings.
> 
> 2. With 4K HDR enabled in the Video settings, the main ATV was viewable, but slightly dimmed. Dynamic Range and Frame Rate were chosen to Match Content. HDMI settings on T1 set to HDMI2.0. Dolby Vision logo was displayed when streaming DV enabled streams from Netflix and Disney+. Colours were natural. For Transformers, sand was white, sky was blue, faces were natural with a tinge of red where needed. Likewise for 6 Underground for Brooklyn Nine 9.
> 
> 3. With 4K SDR enabled in the Video settings, the main display ATV was at its best. Dynamic Range and Frame Rate were chosen to Match Content. HDMI settings on T1 set to HDMI2.0. Dolby Vision logo was displayed when streaming DV enabled streams from Netflix and Disney+. Colours were natural. For Transformers, sand was white, sky was blue, faces were natural with a tinge of red where needed. Likewise for 6 Underground for Brooklyn Nine 9. *This was the setting I eventually kept after connecting ATV4KG1 to my Denon.*
> 
> I was able to reproduce the same results when I reconnected the ATV4KG1 to my Denon.
> 
> *ATV4K2G*
> 
> Connected directly to HDMI3 on T1 using a HDMI2.1 cable.
> 
> 1. With Dolby Vision enabled in the Video settings, the colours on the main ATV display were really vivid. Fiddling around with the HDMI settings on the T1, no change when switched to HDMI2.1, less vivid when switched to HDMI2.0 and HDMI1.4, but vivid nevertheless. The white desert sand had a greenish tinge in Transformers, faces were pinkish/reddish, blues were enhanced. Likewise for the car chase scene in 6 Underground, the blue uniform of the nuns really stood out. Reddish faces in Brooklyn Nine 9 as well.
> 
> 2. With 4K HDR enabled in the Video settings, Dynamic Range and Frame Rate were set to Match Content. The colours on the main ATV screen were less vivid, but still reddish nevertheless. Colours on the main ATV screen were best using the HDMI2.0 setting on the T1. At HDMI2.0 setting on the T1, for Transformers, the white sand was white, faces were less red, but red nevertheless, likewise for 6 Underground, watchable, but not natural. Only Brooklyn Nine 9 appeared natural. At HDMI2.1 setting on the T1, it looked as though I had Dolby Vision enabled in the Video settings.
> 
> 3. With 4K SDR enabled in the video settings, Dynamic Range and Frame set to Match Content, main ATV screen looked best at this setting using the HDMI2.0 setting on the T1. For streaming, the results were similar to the 4K HDR settings.
> 
> I was able to reproduce the same results when I reconnected the ATV4KG2 to my Denon.
> 
> *Conclusion*
> 
> I switched out the ATV4KG2 and replaced it with the ATV4KG1, connected to the Denon with a HDMI2.1 cable, into the T1 within another HDMI2.1 cable with a HDMI2.0 setting on the T1, and ATV4KG1 video settings at 4K SDR with Dynamic Range and Frame Rate set to Match Content. This combination gave me the most consistent colours for the videos that I streamed. Having said that, when I tried streaming Transformers 4 with this combination, Optimus Prime’s red and blue bodywork looked really vivid, and Mark Wahlberg’s face was a little reddish, so there you go … so much for trying to achieve some consistency. Unfortunately, I am not technically inclined to understand or explain why/how all this happened, my most sophisticated tools are my eyes, so if things looked better/worse, its just what I can see. My reference point would be the Wemax A300 I had, which did not support Dolby Vision. I had expected colours to be more natural with DV enabled, and no more fiddling with video settings other than a 1 time calibration on the projector during the initial setup. I suppose a HDFury device would be needed if things do not work out of the box and consistency is required when using the ATV4K and when you place the HDFury device in the chain between the AVR and the projector, you will consistently get the calibrated colours at the projector end.


I came to the same conclusion regarding HDR and Dolby Vision. Beside the lobster skin tone, colors look a bit artificial for my taste. Not only that, HDR makes the films a bit darker. Unless you add another video processor such as HD Fury Arcana, it is best to use 4K SDR mode. You will get the most realistic and natural colors.


----------



## zaselim

Grazed said:


> Seems like you are already on the right track. On that clipping chart test you just adjust your brightness setting until you barely see 0.5%. I usually adjust it to where I do not see it blinking and then slowly increase the brightness until it finally starts blinking at 0.5%. Keep in mind if you are adjusting your white clipping chart (contrast) I always go back to the black clipping chart (brightness) to make sure I do not need to adjust it further.


right, thanks. On white I can't see the blinking on 897 nits(712 - 75.3%) properly. My eyes feel the presence of something happening on screen at 897nits but i can't make it out clearly and some times my eyes see it but barely. So that means for me 1011 nits (75.4%) is the most white value?


----------



## rooterha

Hisense L9G TriChroma LaserTV Review


Hello, I don't share your assessment of the Hisense L9G at all. Here are my measurements of this device. If its native gamut exceeds the rec.2020 it is with a strong red dominance that appears in the image. Its contrast is 3 times lower than that of ALPD3.0 or 4.0 devices. The chromatic...




www.avsforum.com





J Atkinson is accusing ALPD fans of being employees again  This site is a joke with him as an admin.


----------



## Grazed

zaselim said:


> right, thanks. On white I can't see the blinking on 897 nits(712 - 75.3%) properly. My eyes feel the presence of something happening on screen at 897nits but i can't make it out clearly and some times my eyes see it but barely. So that means for me 1011 nits (75.4%) is the most white value?


Yup that is correct. This value will change with different streaming devices and video processors but yup that seems to be the limit for your current setup. To double check just bring down the contrast like by 10-15 just to see if any more start to blink but if not just change it back to the max where you can still see everything you could when it was at a lower setting.


----------



## rjyap

rooterha said:


> Hisense L9G TriChroma LaserTV Review
> 
> 
> Hello, I don't share your assessment of the Hisense L9G at all. Here are my measurements of this device. If its native gamut exceeds the rec.2020 it is with a strong red dominance that appears in the image. Its contrast is 3 times lower than that of ALPD3.0 or 4.0 devices. The chromatic...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> J Atkinson is accusing ALPD fans of being employees again  This site is a joke with him as an admin.


We should start claiming our allowance from Xiaomi/Fengmi. Couldn't do our job for free.


----------



## jeff9n

rjyap said:


> We should start claiming our allowance from Xiaomi/Fengmi. Couldn't do our job for free.


It's time for m0j0 to come clean. He must be Fengmi product manager for the UST division. LOL 😁


----------



## m0j0

jeff9n said:


> It's time for m0j0 to come clean. He must be Fengmi product manager for the UST division. LOL 😁


Nah man, like I said, they can’t afford me!


----------



## zaselim

Grazed said:


> Yup that is correct. This value will change with different streaming devices and video processors but yup that seems to be the limit for your current setup. To double check just bring down the contrast like by 10-15 just to see if any more start to blink but if not just change it back to the max where you can still see everything you could when it was at a lower setting.


Right, thanks. I am pretty much happy with my current settings, it is on par with my Samsung 4k TV and some times it looks better overall. I just watched Maleficent 2014 4k hdr and it looked better on T1 than my TV. I was amazed by the overall picture quality.


----------



## rooterha

I PMed everyone in this thread who gave positive feedback to get you on Formovie's payroll. Let's cash in friends.


----------



## zoomx2

Being the first few owners to get the T1 in Jan. I am still waiting for my commission 😡


----------



## m0j0

rooterha said:


> Hisense L9G TriChroma LaserTV Review
> 
> 
> Hello, I don't share your assessment of the Hisense L9G at all. Here are my measurements of this device. If its native gamut exceeds the rec.2020 it is with a strong red dominance that appears in the image. Its contrast is 3 times lower than that of ALPD3.0 or 4.0 devices. The chromatic...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> J Atkinson is accusing ALPD fans of being employees again  This site is a joke with him as an admin.


I no longer waste my time with that guy.


----------



## clipghost

Genuine questions here from potential UST owner. How is the T1 when it comes to gaming? Black levels? Customer support? Is it Triple laser? Do you HAVE to be tinkering with MADVR to make it work? Is the learning curve high?

I am going between it and the Hisense L9G which seems a bit more plug and play.


----------



## Pismo Mac

clipghost said:


> Genuine questions here from potential UST owner. How is the T1 when it comes to gaming? Black levels? Customer support? Is it Triple laser? Do you HAVE to be tinkering with MADVR to make it work? Is the learning curve high?
> 
> I am going between it and the Hisense L9G which seems a bit more plug and play.


Gaming: Played Forza Horizon 5 on Xbox X with no issue. Not sure about other games. AFAIK, there are currently no UST projectors that can do 4K/120hz with lower than 16ms input lag. 

Black levels: Gorgeous for a UST, probably the best out there. Competing brands may disagree. 

Customer support: From where I am at, I have local support. I don’t think there’s local support in the US. There’s a lot of support here in AVS. 

It is a triple laser and has Dolby Vision support out of the box. I don‘t think the Hisense L9G supports Dolby Vision as of now. If you’re not fussy about colour management or calibration, T1 is plug and play. 

Hope this helps.


----------



## clipghost

Pismo Mac said:


> Gaming: Played Forza Horizon 5 on Xbox X with no issue. Not sure about other games. AFAIK, there are currently no UST projectors that can do 4K/120hz with lower than 16ms input lag.
> 
> Black levels: Gorgeous for a UST, probably the best out there. Competing brands may disagree.
> 
> Customer support: From where I am at, I have local support. I don’t think there’s local support in the US. There’s a lot of support here in AVS.
> 
> It is a triple laser and has Dolby Vision support out of the box. I don‘t think the Hisense L9G supports Dolby Vision as of now. If you’re not fussy about colour management or calibration, T1 is plug and play.
> 
> Hope this helps.


Helped a lot thanks! I mean I can do a little bit color management and calibration of course, but the MADVR stuff seems a bit excessive. What does it take to do that? Tuning every piece of content or one and done type thing?


----------



## zaselim

clipghost said:


> Genuine questions here from potential UST owner. How is the T1 when it comes to gaming? Black levels? Customer support? Is it Triple laser? Do you HAVE to be tinkering with MADVR to make it work? Is the learning curve high?
> 
> I am going between it and the Hisense L9G which seems a bit more plug and play.


So far i have re-played PC versions of Resident Evil 2/3(remake), 7,8, the last of us part 2(ps4 pro). Replaying Horizon Zero Dawn(PC) and AC Syndicate, and with these games i didnt had any issues even on custom mode and had a blast and enjoyed them more than I played them for the first time on my TV specially The last of us part 2 and RE8.
But on Street fighter 5 (steam ver), custom mode or any other non game mode i was unable to perform combos because of the input lag and on game mode I was able to do them but combos which have no or very less gap(frame) window i had to do advance inputs by a frame or 2 to connect the combos and I couldn't play Tekken 7 because it needs precise timing. May be on 1080p it may improve.
So if you do causal or single player gaming then you are good but if you play competitive games like COD or Battlefield or Tekken/Street fighter (both online/offline) then you might have problems.
I only play single player games apart from fighting games and i usually play them (fighting games) on my TV (offlinr) or Monitor(online).
Black levels are amazing as well as the colors and sharpness/detail. For me it really is a great 4k HDR TV replacement.
If you cant use madvr than use pot player, it has a very good hdr playback by default.


----------



## Pismo Mac

clipghost said:


> Helped a lot thanks! I mean I can do a little bit color management and calibration of course, but the MADVR stuff seems a bit excessive. What does it take to do that? Tuning every piece of content or one and done type thing?


Sorry, I can’t help you here, I don’t use MADVR, nor am I using the T1 for gaming. T1 can be plug and play if you want it to be, or you can use MADVR/HDFury to take things further. The T1 lacks a colour management system (which I believe is something that current owners have requested Fengmi to add in future firmware releases, but nothing is confirmed). I believe @rjyap might have posted MADVR settings in earlier posts. I think this is the link for the settings before the updated firmware. 

Edited to include link to rjyap’s MadVR settings.


----------



## zaselim

m0j0 said:


> I no longer waste my time with that guy.


Wow, i must be a paid shill then since i am loving it so much even more than my 50" Samsung 4k smart TV which i got last year in November.
Sure it has 2-3 or issues may be more(mine already had the OS 2.0 so I don't know about the other issues original OS had) but i only noticed 3, 1: top left corner is slightly less focused than the rest but i can still read very small sized text very clearly, it just looks a bit dull, 2: a slight red tint in the middle part of the screen but i dont notice it when watching a movie/show or playing a game 99% of the time even if i try to look for it, 3rd: i feel a slight lag(on movies and shows) when motion option is off but on low it becomes smooth for me and i really enjoy that option even on medium.
I dont know about other 4k projectors since T1 is my first 4k projector (had a 1080p long throw before that) but for me it is a really eye opener experience so far. I watched Maleficent 2014 (4k/hdr) today and it looked beautiful, it had amazing detail and punchy colors. I was smiling the whole time 😂. I dont know why some people dont get it that not everyone is a liar.


----------



## Timothyyy

I have an open-boxed T1 bought from nothing but label with a 3-year warranty. Pm me if interested. Just received it on May First.


----------



## JereyWolf

clipghost said:


> Helped a lot thanks! I mean I can do a little bit color management and calibration of course, but the MADVR stuff seems a bit excessive. What does it take to do that? Tuning every piece of content or one and done type thing?


MadVR is only a few hours of work to get set up...and if you already have a PC connected, it's totally worth trying it out. You can absolutely set and forget it....but you can also go very deep into a bottomless pit of tweaking if you desire.


----------



## AVScope-Noob

well I pulled the trigger boys and bought a T1 from nothingbutlabel. I lurked and must have read the entire thread, I was waiting on possibly getting a epson ls12000 but for the price this looks too good to pass up and I think I prefer the sharpness and motion of dlp even though I’m a complete newb (2nd projector)


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

I have been ok with the ~40ms latency in gaming mode for things like Forza and FPS games, I am not at a competitive level, but for sure notice if I forget to put the projector in gaming mode.
At first I was blaming Bluetooth Latency or Game Stream Latency, then picked up a Series X and PS5 and saw it was the same, all the delay was for the most part not having gaming mode on.

I like that mode enough I do not mind leaving it on for movies/tv as well depending on the content.

120fps sub 30ms would be great, and I guess the reason to upgrade in the future when that kind of tech can be the norm, working well, and not incredibly overpriced.
For what the T1 offers, I am extremely happy.

The HDMI 2.1/2.0 handshake bug is my biggest annoyance, and HDR still can be a bit dark to me at times.

I think I read that the Vertex/Arcana/VRRoom etc does not fix the HDMI handshake issue correct? As I am about to shell out money for amps to add to my RZ-50, maybe I should get one of the HDFury devices first and put the amps on hold for a bit.

Personally despite the tons of information about tweaking the HDFury devices I am still a bit lost with it all, the Nvidia Sheild does not have any kind of "force hdr" setting so not sure how I configure it to help with my HDR and DV content but not mess up other content, etc.


----------



## rjyap

AVScope-Noob said:


> well I pulled the trigger boys and bought a T1 from nothingbutlabel. I lurked and must have read the entire thread, I was waiting on possibly getting a epson ls12000 but for the price this looks too good to pass up and I think I prefer the sharpness and motion of dlp even though I’m a complete newb (2nd projector)


Please post your opinion and user experience. Yep, the price/performance is just unbelievable. Just last year, most tri-laser would cost at least USD 5k and above. I would like to see big brands start to adopt tri-laser at more reasonable price.


----------



## m0j0

ViciousXUSMC said:


> I have been ok with the ~40ms latency in gaming mode for things like Forza and FPS games, I am not at a competitive level, but for sure notice if I forget to put the projector in gaming mode.
> At first I was blaming Bluetooth Latency or Game Stream Latency, then picked up a Series X and PS5 and saw it was the same, all the delay was for the most part not having gaming mode on.
> 
> I like that mode enough I do not mind leaving it on for movies/tv as well depending on the content.
> 
> 120fps sub 30ms would be great, and I guess the reason to upgrade in the future when that kind of tech can be the norm, working well, and not incredibly overpriced.
> For what the T1 offers, I am extremely happy.
> 
> The HDMI 2.1/2.0 handshake bug is my biggest annoyance, and HDR still can be a bit dark to me at times.
> 
> I think I read that the Vertex/Arcana/VRRoom etc does not fix the HDMI handshake issue correct? As I am about to shell out money for amps to add to my RZ-50, maybe I should get one of the HDFury devices first and put the amps on hold for a bit.


No, the HDFury devices do not fix the handshake issue. I still get it occasionally. However, the Vrroom does support ALLM and VRR so that might be of some use to you if you game.


----------



## m0j0

So, last night I switched my Zidoo Z9X over to 4K SDR and watched a little bit of The Incredibles 2. I was pretty impressed overall with the picture. It didn't quite have the dynamic range that I normally get with LLDV but it did seem more color accurate, at least for this movie. For HDR titles, I might have to do some more testing to see if I prefer it this way more or not vs LLDV. I did test a few DV titles as well, and that was a no go with 4K SDR on the Z9X, so I would potentially have to manually change between LLDV and 4K SDR, depending on whether it's a native DV title or not.


----------



## m0j0

Here's the settings I used to test 4k SDR on the T1 with the Zidoo Z9X last night:

Brightness Mode: Night Mode
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 35
Contrast: 49
Saturation: 55
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 51
Color: Custom
Red: 1133
Green: 1020
Blue: 977


----------



## clipghost

zaselim said:


> So far i have re-played PC versions of Resident Evil 2/3(remake), 7,8, the last of us part 2(ps4 pro). Replaying Horizon Zero Dawn(PC) and AC Syndicate, and with these games i didnt had any issues even on custom mode and had a blast and enjoyed them more than I played them for the first time on my TV specially The last of us part 2 and RE8.
> But on Street fighter 5 (steam ver), custom mode or any other non game mode i was unable to perform combos because of the input lag and on game mode I was able to do them but combos which have no or very less gap(frame) window i had to do advance inputs by a frame or 2 to connect the combos and I couldn't play Tekken 7 because it needs precise timing. May be on 1080p it may improve.
> So if you do causal or single player gaming then you are good but if you play competitive games like COD or Battlefield or Tekken/Street fighter (both online/offline) then you might have problems.
> I only play single player games apart from fighting games and i usually play them (fighting games) on my TV (offlinr) or Monitor(online).
> Black levels are amazing as well as the colors and sharpness/detail. For me it really is a great 4k HDR TV replacement.
> If you cant use madvr than use pot player, it has a very good hdr playback by default.





Pismo Mac said:


> Sorry, I can’t help you here, I don’t use MADVR, nor am I using the T1 for gaming. T1 can be plug and play if you want it to be, or you can use MADVR/HDFury to take things further. The T1 lacks a colour management system (which I believe is something that current owners have requested Fengmi to add in future firmware releases, but nothing is confirmed). I believe @rjyap might have posted MADVR settings in earlier posts. I think this is the link for the settings before the updated firmware.
> 
> Edited to include link to rjyap’s MadVR settings.


Ya it's tough for me. I am coming from a 65" OLED. I have the opportunity to get either an 83" OLED C2 or just move on to UST range. The UST's that have caught my eyes are the Fengmi T1 and the Hisense L9G. I know not everyones cup of tea, but they are well known brand in US with some sort of customer support, even though not the best. Just need to make sure the T1 isn't going to turn into sucking up all my time tinkering. Wife/kids can use no problem. Gaming won't lag. It will work well in bright room with ALR screen.


----------



## m0j0

A few more pics from last night


----------



## Demetri Zuev

I hope one day they will update this projector to be completely hassle free, cause the picture seems to be amazing


----------



## lattiboy

clipghost said:


> Ya it's tough for me. I am coming from a 65" OLED. I have the opportunity to get either an 83" OLED C2 or just move on to UST range. The UST's that have caught my eyes are the Fengmi T1 and the Hisense L9G. I know not everyones cup of tea, but they are well known brand in US with some sort of customer support, even though not the best. Just need to make sure the T1 isn't going to turn into sucking up all my time tinkering. Wife/kids can use no problem. Gaming won't lag. It will work well in bright room with ALR screen.


Honestly, put it in display mode and you’re good. The only issue for me is the HDMI issues once every few reboots, but it’s 4 clicks to fix it. Other than that it’s great. HD Fury makes it better, but not entirely necessary.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Spent a couple hours yesterday with @Dave Harper calibrating the International unit and comparing it to a couple other USTs.
There is no doubt that the Formovie/Fengmi does a really good job with low ADL content and has superior contrast to the other USTs we tested it against.
We didn’t hook up any external processors, HDFury, etc and only changed settings within the CMS.
Calibration was a real PITA with this unit compared to some others and the color reference points in the sweeps just couldn’t totally line up.
Today we put it up against the T1 and are trying to calibrate that unit. With its far more limited options, (picture mode & color temperature) calibration is not going as well as we’d like 
Dave will be chiming in later today with his thoughts on how the T1 stacks up against the International unit and we will be doing some comparisons against other USTs in the upcoming weeks.
It certainly has its advantages over other comparably priced and more expensive units, but also has its disadvantages.
Overall, I’m impressed with the International unit , primarily the tone mapping and contrast and if/when Dave can get it to a point where it doesn’t require a lot of tinkering based on content, it may find a home in our UST showroom.
Stay tuned for Dave’s feedback since he’s spent more time with both Fengmi units than I.

I’ve added a couple pics here post Dave’s calibration. T1 on left and International on right.
@Dave Harper will chime in shortly to explain his experience calibrating the units and why the International looks better in these photos, especially the black levels.
I feel as though out of the box the T1 had better black levels than they do post calibration.

Please keep in mind this experiment was based on accurately color calibrating the units. 
There was some content that I preferred the over saturated colors on the T1 over the International with post calibration despite the image being less accurate.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Pretty big difference in price between the global T1 version and the non-global version. I'm not sure there is much difference in the two units besides the Android interface.


----------



## HCMKII

This is for Pre-order of Formovie T1 Global Version. ETA early June !




Koringas said:


> View attachment 3276015


----------



## Koringas

HCMKII said:


> Isto é para pré-encomenda da versão global do Formovie T1. ETA início de junho!
> [/CITAR]
> YeS, pre order


----------



## 3sprit

T1 2.400€ vs. T1 global 2.650€
The difference is acceptable but I will wait for Grégory and his review.


----------



## m0j0

ProjectionHead said:


> Spent a couple hours yesterday with @Dave Harper calibrating the International unit and comparing it to a couple other USTs.
> There is no doubt that the Formovie/Fengmi does a really good job with low ADL content and has superior contrast to the other USTs we tested it against.
> We didn’t hook up any external processors, HDFury, etc and only changed settings within the CMS.
> Calibration was a real PITA with this unit compared to some others and the color reference points in the sweeps just couldn’t totally line up.
> Today we put it up against the T1 and are trying to calibrate that unit. With its far more limited options, (picture mode & color temperature) calibration is not going as well as we’d like
> Dave will be chiming in later today with his thoughts on how the T1 stacks up against the International unit and we will be doing some comparisons against other USTs in the upcoming weeks.
> It certainly has its advantages over other comparably priced and more expensive units, but also has its disadvantages.
> Overall, I’m impressed with the International unit , primarily the tone mapping and contrast and if/when Dave can get it to a point where it doesn’t require a lot of tinkering based on content, it may find a home in our UST showroom.
> Stay tuned for Dave’s feedback since he’s spent more time with both Fengmi units than I.
> 
> I’ve added a couple pics here post Dave’s calibration. T1 on left and International on right.
> @Dave Harper will chime in shortly to explain his experience calibrating the units and why the International looks better in these photos, especially the black levels.
> I feel as though out of the box the T1 had better black levels than they do post calibration.
> 
> Please keep in mind this experiment was based on accurately color calibrating the units.
> There was some content that I preferred the over saturated colors on the T1 over the International with post calibration despite the image being less accurate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3276054
> 
> View attachment 3276055
> 
> View attachment 3276056
> 
> View attachment 3276058


Looks good, thanks for posting pics! What screen are you using?


----------



## ProjectionHead

m0j0 said:


> Looks good, thanks for posting pics! What screen are you using?


Spectra Projection Vantage 0.5 100"


----------



## AVScope-Noob

rjyap said:


> Please post your opinion and user experience. Yep, the price/performance is just unbelievable. Just last year, most tri-laser would cost at least USD 5k and above. I would like to see big brands start to adopt tri-laser at more reasonable price.


Absolutely I will, I’ll probably be asking for help. Tempted to get a HDfury but haven’t a clue how to use it or which one to get but it looks like fun. Vertex 2 ?


----------



## rjyap

3sprit said:


> T1 2.400€ vs. T1 global 2.650€
> The difference is acceptable but I will wait for Grégory and his review.


If it have 11 point greyscale adjustment and functional CMS, the price difference will be worth it especially for streamers. If you use HTPC then not so much.


----------



## rjyap

ProjectionHead said:


> Spent a couple hours yesterday with @Dave Harper calibrating the International unit and comparing it to a couple other USTs.
> There is no doubt that the Formovie/Fengmi does a really good job with low ADL content and has superior contrast to the other USTs we tested it against.
> We didn’t hook up any external processors, HDFury, etc and only changed settings within the CMS.
> Calibration was a real PITA with this unit compared to some others and the color reference points in the sweeps just couldn’t totally line up.
> Today we put it up against the T1 and are trying to calibrate that unit. With its far more limited options, (picture mode & color temperature) calibration is not going as well as we’d like
> Dave will be chiming in later today with his thoughts on how the T1 stacks up against the International unit and we will be doing some comparisons against other USTs in the upcoming weeks.
> It certainly has its advantages over other comparably priced and more expensive units, but also has its disadvantages.
> Overall, I’m impressed with the International unit , primarily the tone mapping and contrast and if/when Dave can get it to a point where it doesn’t require a lot of tinkering based on content, it may find a home in our UST showroom.
> Stay tuned for Dave’s feedback since he’s spent more time with both Fengmi units than I.
> 
> I’ve added a couple pics here post Dave’s calibration. T1 on left and International on right.
> @Dave Harper will chime in shortly to explain his experience calibrating the units and why the International looks better in these photos, especially the black levels.
> I feel as though out of the box the T1 had better black levels than they do post calibration.
> 
> Please keep in mind this experiment was based on accurately color calibrating the units.
> There was some content that I preferred the over saturated colors on the T1 over the International with post calibration despite the image being less accurate.


Thanks for the preview. You shouldn't tell us which unit is on the left and right. Let us guess first which image we prefer.


----------



## m0j0

AVScope-Noob said:


> Absolutely I will, I’ll probably be asking for help. Tempted to get a HDfury but haven’t a clue how to use it or which one to get but it looks like fun. Vertex 2 ?


If you want a web gui, then vertex2 or Vrroom. If you will set and forget and don’t plan to make changes often, then the arcana would work.


----------



## zaselim

clipghost said:


> Ya it's tough for me. I am coming from a 65" OLED. I have the opportunity to get either an 83" OLED C2 or just move on to UST range. The UST's that have caught my eyes are the Fengmi T1 and the Hisense L9G. I know not everyones cup of tea, but they are well known brand in US with some sort of customer support, even though not the best. Just need to make sure the T1 isn't going to turn into sucking up all my time tinkering. Wife/kids can use no problem. Gaming won't lag. It will work well in bright room with ALR screen.


I set up my settings just a little bit from the the default and pretty much everything looks great. I use Office Mode as my go to mode and then View mode for some of the (not every dark content) Dark HDR content with Dynamic Contrast on. Dynamic Contrast and Custom Temperature (RGB) slider don't work in Office Mode as they are locked by default, so In view mode I am using R:1000, GL1024 and B:1000 with dynamic contrast on and the rest of the setting are same as my Office Mode. I play games on Office-Custom because it looks better than game mode (you can't make changes in any of the preset modes) as well as i told you in my above reply that you will not have any issues on single player campaigns and with motion compensation set to low to medium games on PS4 Pro feel like they are running at 60fps on 4k resolution lol.
Even my friends were amazed by it and they were saying it just a giant TV. My choices were LGHU810p, Hisense PX-1 Pro, Epson EH-LS12000b but when I watched a couple of T1 videos on youtube and found this (T1 owner's) thread and saw some of the pics and read other owners' experience then I decided to bet my luck on it because to me it looked really amazing. And when i got it, I set it up and watched Spiderman No way home and it looked amazing. I am still using the same settings (on Office mode) I set up on my first day apart from custom temp rgb sliders. I just started using View mode less than a week ago and so far I have only watched Batman on it and it looked better on View Mode with dynamic Contrast On as DC made it brighter and shadow detail more prominent even better than my 4k TV.
My black level is at reference black level and my white level is at 1011 nits on these black and white clipping test (



) (



).
You just have to take a leap with anything you can't check in person before buying and it is really one of the major reasons when getting anything so it really comes down to your choice. If you can take a leap or a betting man then go for the T1 but if you wanna play safe then only choose the ones you can check in person to see the performace.


----------



## Ricoflashback

zaselim said:


> I set up my settings just a little bit from the the default and pretty much everything looks great. I use Office Mode as my go to mode and then View mode for some of the (not every dark content) Dark HDR content with Dynamic Contrast on. Dynamic Contrast and Custom Temperature (RGB) slider don't work in Office Mode as they are locked by default, so In view mode I am using R:1000, GL1024 and B:1000 with dynamic contrast on and the rest of the setting are same as my Office Mode. I play games on Office-Custom because it looks better than game mode (you can't make changes in any of the preset modes) as well as i told you in my above reply that you will not have any issues on single player campaigns and with motion compensation set to low to medium games on PS4 Pro feel like they are running at 60fps on 4k resolution lol.
> Even my friends were amazed by it and they were saying it just a giant TV. My choices were LGHU810p, Hisense PX-1 Pro, Epson EH-LS12000b but when I watched a couple of T1 videos on youtube and found this (T1 owner's) thread and saw some of the pics and read other owners' experience then I decided to bet my luck on it because to me it looked really amazing. And when i got it, I set it up and watched Spiderman No way home and it looked amazing. I am still using the same settings (on Office mode) I set up on my first day apart from custom temp rgb sliders. I just started using View mode less than a week ago and so far I have only watched Batman on it and it looked better on View Mode with dynamic Contrast On as DC made it brighter and shadow detail more prominent even better than my 4k TV.
> My black level is at reference black level and my white level is at 1011 nits on these black and white clipping test (
> 
> 
> 
> ) (
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> You just have to take a leap with anything you can't check in person before buying and it is really one of the major reasons when getting anything so it really comes down to your choice. If you can take a leap or a betting man then go for the T1 but if you wanna play safe then only choose the ones you can check in person to see the performace.


A lot of us don’t have the option of a regular throw projector. Outside of price compared to the T1, the Epson LS 12000 looks like an incredible projector - especially with lens memory for a scope screen. Any special reason you went with the T1?

Also - thanks for sharing your settings. It would be nice to see some more “stock” settings and pics without any processing from HDFury products.


----------



## zaselim

Ricoflashback said:


> A lot of us don’t have the option of a regular throw projector. Outside of price compared to the T1, the Epson LS 12000 looks like an incredible projector - especially with lens memory for a scope screen. Any special reason you went with the T1?
> 
> Also - thanks for sharing your settings. It would be nice to see some more “stock” settings and pics without any processing from HDFury products.


I didnt go with ls12000 because of the price and customs and taxes in my country which is 57 to 60%. Even after discounted price and only 700usd as the value of T1 for the customs, it costed me around 3100usd. Imagine how much it would have costed me with the full price value. And then imagine how much ls12000 (5000usd) would have costed me with the customs and taxes. I also heard that ls12000 creates a softer image compared to dlp projectors. I don't know how ls12000 looks in person but now i dont care because I am very happy with T1 as it generates very great picture alot more than what i had hopes for. And my room is also better towards the short throw setting, it wasn't the factor for me to not getting ls12000 though.
About the pictures, i tried many times but my phone camera doesn't catch them well. The red and yollow horizonal (moving from top to bottom) lines make it more difficult for me to take pictures.

About my settings on T1 which I also posted in one of my previous comments.
I use office mode mostly (with matt white 0.9 gain 120" screen).
Brightness 52(51 and 52 is pretty much the same level) Contrast 54, sharpness 50(def), Saturation (between) 44-50, tone 49, color temp(custom - even though it doesnt work on office mode i am still on custom), Dynamic Contrast (doesnt work on office mode) between on and off.
When in view mode, my settings are the same as I start to loose detail in bright areas if i go above 54(contrast).
My custom color temp
1: R: 984, G: 1024, B: 944 (previous)
2: R: 1000, G: 1024, B:1000 (I set that up a couple of days ago and it looks better).
And i notice Dynamic Contrast works better on dark movies or scenes. In the scene (Dune)(before the sunrise when there is no light ) where the giant worm creature notices paul and his mother in the deseet at the end of the movie before that final battle, i can see better detail and highlights when Dynamic Contrast is On and then it produces more brighter image than Office mode in dark scenes. Same thing happened with The Batman for the entirety of the film and in Eternals as well. But in some scenes it makes areas with very low light where you only see the presence of something from grey to darker(black) but my eyes can still notice that presence almost the same (on my TV that presence looks the same as on T1(office mode) but slightly brighter like but when I open more brightness on T1 around 56 then it (presence) becomes identical).


----------



## Ricoflashback

zaselim said:


> I didnt go with ls12000 because of the price and customs and taxes in my country which is 57 to 60%. Even after discounted price and only 700usd as the value of T1 for the customs, it costed me around 3100usd. Imagine how much it would have costed me with the full price value. And then imagine how much ls12000 (5000usd) would have costed me with the customs and taxes. I also heard that ls12000 creates a softer image compared to dlp projectors. I don't know how ls12000 looks in person but now i dont care because I am very happy with T1 as it generates very great picture alot more than what i had hopes for. And my room is also better towards the short throw setting, it wasn't the factor for me to not getting ls12000 though.
> About the pictures, i tried many times but my phone camera doesn't catch them well. The red and yollow horizonal (moving from top to bottom) lines make it more difficult for me to take pictures.


Thanks. The LS12000 has a pretty sharp picture with the latest firmware update. But I totally understand. I only brought it up in conjunction with a scope screen and the fact that you have the room for a regular throw PJ. For a 16 x 9 setup, it’s not needed. And I’m a big fan of DLP picture sharpness.

Maybe someday UST projectors will have lens memory and horizontal and vertical shift. Combined with the contrast and black levels of ALPD 4.0 projectors - that would be an unbeatable combination and would give regular throw PJ’s 3X and up in price a run for their money. I’d say the number one improvement UST PJ’s could have would be horizontal and vertical shift. That would greatly simplify the setup over any keystone corrections.


----------



## zaselim

Ricoflashback said:


> Thanks. The LS12000 has a pretty sharp picture with the latest firmware update. But I totally understand. I only brought it up in conjunction with a scope screen and the fact that you have the room for a regular throw PJ. For a 16 x 9 setup, it’s not needed. And I’m a big fan of DLP picture sharpness.
> 
> Maybe someday UST projectors will have lens memory and horizontal and vertical shift. Combined with the contrast and black levels of ALPD 4.0 projectors - that would be an unbeatable combination and would give regular throw PJ’s 3X and up in price a run for their money. I’d say the number one improvement UST PJ’s could have would be horizontal and vertical shift. That would greatly simplify the setup over any keystone corrections.


Yes i also think that projectors (both long throw or ust) must have lens shift (both horizontal and vertical) and i think there should also be atleast 2 custom setting (profile) options. My 10 years old projector had 3 user mode and not only that i had the option to change values in all of preset modes as well.
I would have gone with ls12000 if T1 didn't caught my eye. Sure it has a couple (to 3) of minor issues but they are very negotiable compared to what it does. When it comes to enjoyment factor i am 95 to 97% (remaining 3 to 5% is because of the slightly less focused top left corner, only one custom settings with locked rgb sliders and dynamic contrast on Office mode and a slightly laggy motion when motion compensation is off but i enjoy smooth motion effect (i use it on my TV as well on auto) and i use it on low to medium depending on the content so i dont care about that much) satisfied and 90% because i didnt want these minor issues present in out of the box newly bought product.


----------



## AVScope-Noob

Is the slight out of focus on top left corner or other corners vary from unit to unit I assume with t1? I’m also a big fan of dlp sharpness. Also, you can’t use the smooth motion processing with DV correct?

it’s interesting how many of us were eyeing the ls12000 but that price point might be on the breakpoint for a lot of potential buyers


----------



## rjyap

AVScope-Noob said:


> Is the slight out of focus on top left corner or other corners vary from unit to unit I assume with t1? I’m also a big fan of dlp sharpness. Also, you can’t use the smooth motion processing with DV correct?
> 
> it’s interesting how many of us were eyeing the ls12000 but that price point might be on the breakpoint for a lot of potential buyers


UST is very sensitive to screen imperfection. I managed to get corner to corner sharpness with fixed screen. Could be unit to unit variance too. I do consider LS12000 but in Malaysia I would need to pay more than 2.5x the price of T1 plus not even covering 100% DCI-P3 is disappointing for 2022 model.


----------



## m0j0

ProjectionHead said:


> Spent a couple hours yesterday with @Dave Harper calibrating the International unit and comparing it to a couple other USTs.
> There is no doubt that the Formovie/Fengmi does a really good job with low ADL content and has superior contrast to the other USTs we tested it against.
> We didn’t hook up any external processors, HDFury, etc and only changed settings within the CMS.
> Calibration was a real PITA with this unit compared to some others and the color reference points in the sweeps just couldn’t totally line up.
> Today we put it up against the T1 and are trying to calibrate that unit. With its far more limited options, (picture mode & color temperature) calibration is not going as well as we’d like
> Dave will be chiming in later today with his thoughts on how the T1 stacks up against the International unit and we will be doing some comparisons against other USTs in the upcoming weeks.
> It certainly has its advantages over other comparably priced and more expensive units, but also has its disadvantages.
> Overall, I’m impressed with the International unit , primarily the tone mapping and contrast and if/when Dave can get it to a point where it doesn’t require a lot of tinkering based on content, it may find a home in our UST showroom.
> Stay tuned for Dave’s feedback since he’s spent more time with both Fengmi units than I.
> 
> I’ve added a couple pics here post Dave’s calibration. T1 on left and International on right.
> @Dave Harper will chime in shortly to explain his experience calibrating the units and why the International looks better in these photos, especially the black levels.
> I feel as though out of the box the T1 had better black levels than they do post calibration.
> 
> Please keep in mind this experiment was based on accurately color calibrating the units.
> There was some content that I preferred the over saturated colors on the T1 over the International with post calibration despite the image being less accurate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3276054
> 
> View attachment 3276055
> 
> View attachment 3276056
> 
> View attachment 3276058


Hopefully @Dave Harper will share the final calibration settings on the T1 for us...


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

m0j0 said:


> Hopefully @Dave Harper will share the final calibration settings on the T1 for us...


+1 on that! Would love to hear his impressions and see where he landed regarding settings on both the Chinese and International T1’s. Knowing full well these things are highly unit and room dependent, it’s still interesting to see what levers he had to pull to bring out the best these units are capable of.


----------



## AVScope-Noob

rjyap said:


> UST is very sensitive to screen imperfection. I managed to get corner to corner sharpness with fixed screen. Could be unit to unit variance too. I do consider LS12000 but in Malaysia I would need to pay more than 2.5x the price of T1 plus not even covering 100% DCI-P3 is disappointing for 2022 model.


Thanks, I figured set up played a factor. Is a fixed frame easier to get uniform sharp focus since the tension of the screen is usually more level? Appreciate it.


----------



## ProjectionHead

AVScope-Noob said:


> Is the slight out of focus on top left corner or other corners vary from unit to unit I assume with t1? I’m also a big fan of dlp sharpness. Also, you can’t use the smooth motion processing with DV correct?
> 
> it’s interesting how many of us were eyeing the ls12000 but that price point might be on the breakpoint for a lot of potential buyers


corner focus is an issue for me on both units. Only really noticeable with the focus menu or other text but not with video content.


----------



## ProjectionHead

AVScope-Noob said:


> Thanks, I figured set up played a factor. Is a fixed frame easier to get uniform sharp focus since the tension of the screen is usually more level? Appreciate it.


Yeah, a (good) fixed frame will be evenly tensioned on all sides and the fl frame itself should be easier to get plumb to wall to avoid distortions


----------



## m0j0

So, just an observation to share with the group. I have found through extensive testing, that when I watch a movie on my Zidoo Z9X or Sony X800M2, I can go up by +5 on contrast in comparison to where I have it set when watching on the Roku Ultra. Brightness stays the same and the colors, but for whatever reason, there is a bit of a difference in terms of contrast. So, from now on, I plan to adjust by +5, depending on which device I am using.


----------



## okvcos

m0j0 said:


> So, just an observation to share with the group. I have found through extensive testing, that when I watch a movie on my Zidoo Z9X or Sony X800M2, I can go up by +5 on contrast in comparison to where I have it set when watching on the Roku Ultra. Brightness stays the same and the colors, but for whatever reason, there is a bit of a difference in terms of contrast. So, from now on, I plan to adjust by +5, depending on which device I am using.


It would be great if Zidoo had separate contrast adjustment between SDR and HDR ..... .


----------



## m0j0

Tried this custom color setup last night and it seemed to work very well (78% or higher on all colors when testing color clipping, and white at 75%):

Brightness Mode: Night Mode
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 52
Contrast: 72 on Roku Ultra (77 on Zidoo Z9X and Sony X800M2)
Saturation: 38
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 51
Color: Custom
Red: 1000
Green: 975
Blue: 955


----------



## okvcos

m0j0 said:


> Tried this custom color setup last night and it seemed to work very well (78% or higher on all colors when testing color clipping, and white at 75%):


500 nits on the Vertex ?


----------



## m0j0

okvcos said:


> 500 nits on the Vertex ?


Actually, I've been at 150 nits for a few days, since the main focus of my T1 is my kids using it during the daytime and evening to watch kids shows, so 150 seems to be pretty good for that and gives good brightness throughout the day.


----------



## lattiboy

m0j0 said:


> So, just an observation to share with the group. I have found through extensive testing, that when I watch a movie on my Zidoo Z9X or Sony X800M2, I can go up by +5 on contrast in comparison to where I have it set when watching on the Roku Ultra. Brightness stays the same and the colors, but for whatever reason, there is a bit of a difference in terms of contrast. So, from now on, I plan to adjust by +5, depending on which device I am using.


Noticed the same with the AppleTV 4K. Must be Roku has a very conservative DV rendering setup….?


----------



## m0j0

lattiboy said:


> Noticed the same with the AppleTV 4K. Must be Roku has a very conservative DV rendering setup….?


Not sure what the differences are at this point, and whether or not it's specific to DV or not.


----------



## gen_x

Hey everyone I am having trouble finding a screen that is 133" for the T1. Looks like there may be limitations with screen material for anything larger than 120". The ones that I have found are very expensive. Any suggestions for a ALR that would work . FYI for those who may be in the same boat do not buy a long throw ALR thinking that it would work for the T1. It does not.


----------



## m0j0

A few nature pictures from last night's testing (1000 nits on the DV tab and some color/saturation changes)


----------



## m0j0

And a few humans too


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> A few nature pictures from last night's testing (1000 nits on the DV tab and some color/saturation changes)


Some of the best pics you've had to date. What are the settings for this? Looks like a keeper to me.


----------



## Dave Harper

*Overview*
We did our setup routine to show both the China and the Global versions of the ForMovie/T1 on the same model screens, a 100” diagonal Spectra Projection ALR, at the same time adjacent to each other, in a flipped format to show the same content in a mirror image in the center space between the screens. 

We set up both projectors through a high end Marantz receiver using its dual HDMI outputs. We fed both projectors with a 4K/24p UHD HDR BT2020 signal from various sources, the main of which was the Spears & Munsil UHD Benchmark 4K Bluray disc. Source content was mainly this excellent UHD Bluray disc. We set the S&M disc to the 1,000 nit authoring version with HDR and BT.2020 color gamut. We played the 1,000 nit version of the demo videos on the disc, as well as many scenes from Mad Max: Fury Road.

*White Balance, Color Temperature & Grayscale*

After being able to do a more thorough calibration on the Global using the added CMS/Gains & Cutoffs controls, I then selected the same Office Brightness Mode on the China model. I immediately noticed that the grayscale/color temperature was very different between them, with the China model showing more red tint in the infamous “Horses in the Snow” scene from the S&M disc. I immediately went into the Custom Color Temperature menu on the China but found that it didn’t respond at all to any of my changes to the RGB Gains (as expected here), which are for some reason the only adjustments available. So I realized that I had to change Brightness mode to be able to activate these settings. I changed it to the “Viewing” Mode which allowed me to make some adjustments to the Color Temp/White Balance. I decided to use first a 50% grey patch to do a simple white balance on a mid range greyscale patch, hoping it would give a decent balance between the entire range from 0 - 100%, as well as match the calibrated Global unit to make them about as close as you possibly could visually. After doing so, it didn’t appear to be the best match, so then I tried a 60% patch which was a little better, but finally landed on a 70% grey patch, white balanced using CalMAN, to get it very close visually.

*Brightness*
The Global unit was brighter overall, due to being able to use the Office Mode, which is brighter than the Chinese version’s Viewing Mode. I turned on Active Contrast on the China model which made them perceptually closer to one another, as seen by eye.

*Contrast, Sharpness and Detail*
The contrast comparison between these two was strange to me. I am under the assumption that they should have around the same contrast ratio, about 3,XXX:1, but the Global version clearly had the edge for some reason visually, both native/sequential and ANSI/Inter-image. Throughout all the scenes of the demo video from Spears & Munsil you could easily see the better depth and contrast on the Global unit. Backgrounds of menus and scenes with black backgrounds clearly had a better black floor. You could also see this in shadow detail scenes like the one with the mountainous desert valley with the town in the valley below, in the shadows. You could really make out the details of the various buildings, lakes, etc. on the Global unit and it also took on a much more detailed and “HDR-Like” appearance, with the water of the lake having a sparkle and shimmer, as real water would.

Many other scenes throughout the demo videos kept showing this higher level of contrast and details compared to the Chinese unit. Forests were more delineated and the trees and their trunks had more definition and detail to them, with the shadows between and amongst them having more apparent contrast. They just seemed sharper and more realistic. The scene with the bubbling pond in the geyser park scenes also made the water appear more realistic and shimmering, as it would in real life.

Scene after scene, I can’t think of one instance where the China model was perceptually “better”. Sometimes the colors appeared better on the China model, but this was a trick of the eye because all the colors are oversaturated on the China model since there was no CMS and that’s the way they come out of the box.

The only thing I can think of that would be the cause of the differences in contrast of each model from scene to scene could be the calibration in the midrange at 70% and the mode choice made when doing it, in this case Viewing Mode. It could have basically been affecting things like gamma and inter-image ANSI Contrast, but that’s a guess since I didn’t have a lot of time to test and calibrate every single mode.

*Colors*
After basic white balance gains on the China unit, these two models were initially hard to tell apart. The only real color differences were in the scenes like white snow, blue skies and tan sand type colors. The snow was more reddish tinted, the blue skies took on a deeper (incorrect) blue and sand had a more greenish/yellow tint to it. This is most definitely caused by the fact that the colors are oversaturated out of the box with no CMS to tame them back to reference. Just about everything else on these two projectors were virtually indistinguishable from each other, color wise.

*Conclusion*
If you want the extra brightness that Office Mode gives, better perceived contrast, better calibration controls to dial in the image much closer to reference, then the Global Fengmi unit may be the choice for you!

Is that worth what could be a little more money to purchase? I personally think so! But of course that depends on what the extra cost will be and what those extras you can get with the Global unit means to you in relation to those clearly image improving differences the Global unit gives you. After hours of viewing, I would choose the Global unit personally, but that's coming from an ISF Calibrator's point of view, although since the China unit is SO FAR OFF color wise with no real way to tame it without crazy outboard manipulators apparently (someone please PM link to me what these are), I would have to say my perspective holds good value. In the end, they are both great looking projectors, especially at the respective price points compared to their higher end competition. The Global is just "better". 

The Global version currently isn’t available. The Chinese version on the other hand is available at some Chinese retailers such as Alibaba. I believe ProjectorScreen.com is hoping to be a launch partner for the Global model and may receive some of the heaviest allocations as a premium dealer and be able to ship this model nationwide. 

I would say if you're interested in seeing these units for yourself, I would schedule an appointment to view them in their demo room in northern NJ if you're close by once they decide if they are carrying it and it’s added to their catalog.


----------



## JackB

D


Dave Harper said:


> *Overview*
> We did our setup routine to show both the China and the Global versions of the ForMovie/T1 on the same model screens, a 100” diagonal Spectra Projection ALR, at the same time adjacent to each other, in a flipped format to show the same content in a mirror image in the center space between the screens.
> 
> We set up both projectors through a high end Marantz receiver using its dual HDMI outputs. We fed both projectors with a 4K/24p UHD HDR BT2020 signal from various sources, the main of which was the Spears & Munsil UHD Benchmark 4K Bluray disc. Source content was mainly this excellent UHD Bluray disc. We set the S&M disc to the 1,000 nit authoring version with HDR and BT.2020 color gamut. We played the 1,000 nit version of the demo videos on the disc, as well as many scenes from Mad Max: Fury Road.
> 
> *White Balance, Color Temperature & Grayscale*
> 
> After being able to do a more thorough calibration on the Global using the added CMS/Gains & Cutoffs controls, I then selected the same Office Brightness Mode on the China model. I immediately noticed that the grayscale/color temperature was very different between them, with the China model showing more red tint in the infamous “Horses in the Snow” scene from the S&M disc. I immediately went into the Custom Color Temperature menu on the China but found that it didn’t respond at all to any of my changes to the RGB Gains (as expected here), which are for some reason the only adjustments available. So I realized that I had to change Brightness mode to be able to activate these settings. I changed it to the “Viewing” Mode which allowed me to make some adjustments to the Color Temp/White Balance. I decided to use first a 50% grey patch to do a simple white balance on a mid range greyscale patch, hoping it would give a decent balance between the entire range from 0 - 100%, as well as match the calibrated Global unit to make them about as close as you possibly could visually. After doing so, it didn’t appear to be the best match, so then I tried a 60% patch which was a little better, but finally landed on a 70% grey patch, white balanced using CalMAN, to get it very close visually.
> 
> *Brightness*
> The Global unit was brighter overall, due to being able to use the Office Mode, which is brighter than the Chinese version’s Viewing Mode. I turned on Active Contrast on the China model which made them perceptually closer to one another, as seen by eye.
> 
> *Contrast, Sharpness and Detail*
> The contrast comparison between these two was strange to me. I am under the assumption that they should have around the same contrast ratio, about 3,XXX:1, but the Global version clearly had the edge for some reason visually, both native/sequential and ANSI/Inter-image. Throughout all the scenes of the demo video from Spears & Munsil you could easily see the better depth and contrast on the Global unit. Backgrounds of menus and scenes with black backgrounds clearly had a better black floor. You could also see this in shadow detail scenes like the one with the mountainous desert valley with the town in the valley below, in the shadows. You could really make out the details of the various buildings, lakes, etc. on the Global unit and it also took on a much more detailed and “HDR-Like” appearance, with the water of the lake having a sparkle and shimmer, as real water would.
> 
> Many other scenes throughout the demo videos kept showing this higher level of contrast and details compared to the Chinese unit. Forests were more delineated and the trees and their trunks had more definition and detail to them, with the shadows between and amongst them having more apparent contrast. They just seemed sharper and more realistic. The scene with the bubbling pond in the geyser park scenes also made the water appear more realistic and shimmering, as it would in real life.
> 
> Scene after scene, I can’t think of one instance where the China model was perceptually “better”. Sometimes the colors appeared better on the China model, but this was a trick of the eye because all the colors are oversaturated on the China model since there was no CMS and that’s the way they come out of the box.
> 
> The only thing I can think of that would be the cause of the differences in contrast of each model from scene to scene could be the calibration in the midrange at 70% and the mode choice made when doing it, in this case Viewing Mode. It could have basically been affecting things like gamma and inter-image ANSI Contrast, but that’s a guess since I didn’t have a lot of time to test and calibrate every single mode.
> 
> *Colors*
> After basic white balance gains on the China unit, these two models were initially hard to tell apart. The only real color differences were in the scenes like white snow, blue skies and tan sand type colors. The snow was more reddish tinted, the blue skies took on a deeper (incorrect) blue and sand had a more greenish/yellow tint to it. This is most definitely caused by the fact that the colors are oversaturated out of the box with no CMS to tame them back to reference. Just about everything else on these two projectors were virtually indistinguishable from each other, color wise.
> 
> *Conclusion*
> If you want the extra brightness that Office Mode gives, better perceived contrast, better calibration controls to dial in the image much closer to reference, then the Global Fengmi unit may be the choice for you!
> 
> Is that worth what could be a little more money to purchase? I personally think so! But of course that depends on what the extra cost will be and what those extras you can get with the Global unit means to you in relation to those clearly image improving differences the Global unit gives you. After hours of viewing, I would choose the Global unit personally, but that's coming from an ISF Calibrator's point of view, although since the China unit is SO FAR OFF color wise with no real way to tame it without crazy outboard manipulators apparently (someone please PM link to me what these are), I would have to say my perspective holds good value. In the end, they are both great looking projectors, especially at the respective price points compared to their higher end competition. The Global is just "better".
> 
> The Global version currently isn’t available. The Chinese version on the other hand is available at some Chinese retailers such as Alibaba. I believe ProjectorScreen.com is hoping to be a launch partner for the Global model and may receive some of the heaviest allocations as a premium dealer and be able to ship this model nationwide.
> 
> I would say if you're interested in seeing these units for yourself, I would schedule an appointment to view them in their demo room in northern NJ if you're close by once they decide if they are carrying it and it’s added to their catalog.


Dave,

Before you leave the ability to change anything in your test I suggest you look earlier(a few pages) in this thread at Moj00's Chinese version settings that he has posted numerous times with photos of the results. Perhaps he could post what he thinks would be the best for comparison to the Global version. He's had so much more time to dedicate to the tuning and perhaps his experience might put the Chinese version with it's best foot forward for the comparison.


----------



## xrayg1971

Dave Harper said:


> *Overview*
> We did our setup routine to show both the China and the Global versions of the ForMovie/T1 on the same model screens, a 100” diagonal Spectra Projection ALR, at the same time adjacent to each other, in a flipped format to show the same content in a mirror image in the center space between the screens.
> 
> We set up both projectors through a high end Marantz receiver using its dual HDMI outputs. We fed both projectors with a 4K/24p UHD HDR BT2020 signal from various sources, the main of which was the Spears & Munsil UHD Benchmark 4K Bluray disc. Source content was mainly this excellent UHD Bluray disc. We set the S&M disc to the 1,000 nit authoring version with HDR and BT.2020 color gamut. We played the 1,000 nit version of the demo videos on the disc, as well as many scenes from Mad Max: Fury Road.
> 
> *White Balance, Color Temperature & Grayscale*
> 
> After being able to do a more thorough calibration on the Global using the added CMS/Gains & Cutoffs controls, I then selected the same Office Brightness Mode on the China model. I immediately noticed that the grayscale/color temperature was very different between them, with the China model showing more red tint in the infamous “Horses in the Snow” scene from the S&M disc. I immediately went into the Custom Color Temperature menu on the China but found that it didn’t respond at all to any of my changes to the RGB Gains (as expected here), which are for some reason the only adjustments available. So I realized that I had to change Brightness mode to be able to activate these settings. I changed it to the “Viewing” Mode which allowed me to make some adjustments to the Color Temp/White Balance. I decided to use first a 50% grey patch to do a simple white balance on a mid range greyscale patch, hoping it would give a decent balance between the entire range from 0 - 100%, as well as match the calibrated Global unit to make them about as close as you possibly could visually. After doing so, it didn’t appear to be the best match, so then I tried a 60% patch which was a little better, but finally landed on a 70% grey patch, white balanced using CalMAN, to get it very close visually.
> 
> *Brightness*
> The Global unit was brighter overall, due to being able to use the Office Mode, which is brighter than the Chinese version’s Viewing Mode. I turned on Active Contrast on the China model which made them perceptually closer to one another, as seen by eye.
> 
> *Contrast, Sharpness and Detail*
> The contrast comparison between these two was strange to me. I am under the assumption that they should have around the same contrast ratio, about 3,XXX:1, but the Global version clearly had the edge for some reason visually, both native/sequential and ANSI/Inter-image. Throughout all the scenes of the demo video from Spears & Munsil you could easily see the better depth and contrast on the Global unit. Backgrounds of menus and scenes with black backgrounds clearly had a better black floor. You could also see this in shadow detail scenes like the one with the mountainous desert valley with the town in the valley below, in the shadows. You could really make out the details of the various buildings, lakes, etc. on the Global unit and it also took on a much more detailed and “HDR-Like” appearance, with the water of the lake having a sparkle and shimmer, as real water would.
> 
> Many other scenes throughout the demo videos kept showing this higher level of contrast and details compared to the Chinese unit. Forests were more delineated and the trees and their trunks had more definition and detail to them, with the shadows between and amongst them having more apparent contrast. They just seemed sharper and more realistic. The scene with the bubbling pond in the geyser park scenes also made the water appear more realistic and shimmering, as it would in real life.
> 
> Scene after scene, I can’t think of one instance where the China model was perceptually “better”. Sometimes the colors appeared better on the China model, but this was a trick of the eye because all the colors are oversaturated on the China model since there was no CMS and that’s the way they come out of the box.
> 
> The only thing I can think of that would be the cause of the differences in contrast of each model from scene to scene could be the calibration in the midrange at 70% and the mode choice made when doing it, in this case Viewing Mode. It could have basically been affecting things like gamma and inter-image ANSI Contrast, but that’s a guess since I didn’t have a lot of time to test and calibrate every single mode.
> 
> *Colors*
> After basic white balance gains on the China unit, these two models were initially hard to tell apart. The only real color differences were in the scenes like white snow, blue skies and tan sand type colors. The snow was more reddish tinted, the blue skies took on a deeper (incorrect) blue and sand had a more greenish/yellow tint to it. This is most definitely caused by the fact that the colors are oversaturated out of the box with no CMS to tame them back to reference. Just about everything else on these two projectors were virtually indistinguishable from each other, color wise.
> 
> *Conclusion*
> If you want the extra brightness that Office Mode gives, better perceived contrast, better calibration controls to dial in the image much closer to reference, then the Global Fengmi unit may be the choice for you!
> 
> Is that worth what could be a little more money to purchase? I personally think so! But of course that depends on what the extra cost will be and what those extras you can get with the Global unit means to you in relation to those clearly image improving differences the Global unit gives you. After hours of viewing, I would choose the Global unit personally, but that's coming from an ISF Calibrator's point of view, although since the China unit is SO FAR OFF color wise with no real way to tame it without crazy outboard manipulators apparently (someone please PM link to me what these are), I would have to say my perspective holds good value. In the end, they are both great looking projectors, especially at the respective price points compared to their higher end competition. The Global is just "better".
> 
> The Global version currently isn’t available. The Chinese version on the other hand is available at some Chinese retailers such as Alibaba. I believe ProjectorScreen.com is hoping to be a launch partner for the Global model and may receive some of the heaviest allocations as a premium dealer and be able to ship this model nationwide.
> 
> I would say if you're interested in seeing these units for yourself, I would schedule an appointment to view them in their demo room in northern NJ if you're close by once they decide if they are carrying it and it’s added to their catalog.


Dave do you have t1 calibration settings you can share with us that are best of all worlds .. ?


----------



## Dave Harper

JackB said:


> D
> 
> Dave,
> 
> Before you leave the ability to change anything in your test I suggest you look earlier(a few pages) in this thread at Moj00's Chinese version settings that he has posted numerous times with photos of the results. Perhaps he could post what he thinks would be the best for comparison to the Global version. He's had so much more time to dedicate to the tuning and perhaps his experience might put the Chinese version with it's best foot forward for the comparison.


If you could post a link it would really help. I am SO busy and its near impossible to keep up in these threads anymore for ALL these projectors! Does he use an HDFury?



xrayg1971 said:


> Dave do you have t1 calibration settings you can share with us that are best of all worlds .. ?


Apparently I don't have the best settings haha! Which unit are you talking about?


----------



## donw

Dave Harper said:


> If you could post a link it would really help. I am SO busy and its near impossible to keep up in these threads anymore for ALL these projectors! Does he use an HDFury?
> 
> 
> 
> Apparently I don't have the best settings haha! Which unit are you talking about?


m0j0 does use an HDFury unit set to generate HDR from LLDV and a source device (Roku Ultra for example) that can force any source to LLDV.
I would love to see you install projectTivy Launcher on the Chinese version and play with the native Android display calibration settings that are said to be unlocked (the Chinese version uses FengOS which is a customized Android. It can be loaded as an APK.
ProjecTivy Tools - Apps on Google Play


----------



## fancyclown

Latest projectivy tools (launcher) can be found here: [APP][ANDROID TV] ProjecTivy Launcher

I have it installed on both the T1 and the shield


----------



## Dave Harper

donw said:


> m0j0 does use an HDFury unit set to generate HDR from LLDV and a source device (Roku Ultra for example) that can force any source to LLDV.
> I would love to see you install projectTivy Launcher on the Chinese version and play with the native Android display calibration settings that are said to be unlocked (the Chinese version uses FengOS which is a customized Android. It can be loaded as an APK.
> ProjecTivy Tools - Apps on Google Play


So it opens up and unlocks a CMS and White Balance capability?

What does the LLDV tweak do for this other than unlocking DV? I am VERY familiar with it, since I am the founder of this tweak!


----------



## Maqnvm7

Here are a couple of pictures comparing the T1 (top) with my LG OLED CX (bottom):

































































The color temperature is a bit different, sorry for that. Last picture is pretty impressive imo!


----------



## donw

Dave Harper said:


> So it opens up and unlocks a CMS and White Balance capability?
> 
> What does the LLDV tweak do for this other than unlocking DV? I am VERY familiar with it, since I am the founder of this tweak!


Yes, ProjectTivy unlocks CMS and white balance from my understanding.
Using the HDFury lets you control the nits with the HDFury and the limited T1 picture settings even with DV sources (where T1's picture settings are not available with DV sources).


----------



## donw

fancyclown said:


> Latest projectivy tools (launcher) can be found here: [APP][ANDROID TV] ProjecTivy Launcher
> 
> I have it installed on both the T1 and the shield


Did you have to root the T1? Were there any other steps you need to do once ProjectTivy is installed? Have you messed with the CMS yet?


----------



## humax

Post 4,877 has Chinese T1's service menu settings. I thought so far there is no CMS and only white balance setting works. Did I get the wrong impression?


----------



## humax

Maqnvm7 said:


> Here are a couple of pictures comparing the T1 (top) with my LG OLED CX (bottom):



Thank you for this comparison! For me the first picture is the essence of the T1. You would expect any projector minus a JVC to be obliterated by OLED. T1 holds its own quite well. Decent blacks and contrast do matter for a quality projection image.


----------



## donw

humax said:


> Post 4,877 has Chinese T1's service menu settings. I thought so far there is no CMS and only white balance setting works. Did I get the wrong impression?


I don't know. Could just be my wishful thinking  . I wish someone who has installed it would answer.


----------



## m0j0

Dave Harper said:


> If you could post a link it would really help. I am SO busy and its near impossible to keep up in these threads anymore for ALL these projectors! Does he use an HDFury?
> 
> 
> 
> Apparently I don't have the best settings haha! Which unit are you talking about?


You do definitely have the best settings @Dave Harper! Great job and would really appreciate it if you could share your settings for both when you have time.


----------



## rooterha

lol, J Atkinson locked the L9G thread so I can't reply on it


----------



## m0j0

rooterha said:


> lol, J Atkinson locked the L9G thread so I can't reply on it


Wielding the mighty sword of power as administrator!


----------



## m0j0

Dave Harper said:


> So it opens up and unlocks a CMS and White Balance capability?
> 
> What does the LLDV tweak do for this other than unlocking DV? I am VERY familiar with it, since I am the founder of this tweak!


Those that don't know, @Dave Harper is the one that figured out how to use an HDFury to trick a player into thinking it is talking to a Dolby Vision device and send LLDV with tone mapping. Really thankful he figured that one out, as I love the results of a tone mapped image on a big projector and dont otherwise have the kind of money needed to shell out for a MadVR Envy, Lumagen or even building a MadVR PC.

When the T1 was released, I found it's DV implementation had some issues with being too dark, having red push, etc. and also losing picture controls when Dolby Vision on the T1 was engaged. Thus, started using an HDFury device to work around all of that and get a bright, colorful picture with full controls for tweaking still available.


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> Some of the best pics you've had to date. What are the settings for this? Looks like a keeper to me.


Think I might still have a little more work to do on it, but here's where I am with it right now:

(DV tab at 1000 nits for max luminance on the HDFury device)
Brightness Mode: Night Mode
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 53
Contrast: 48
Saturation: 49
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 51
Color: Custom
Red: 863
Green: 945
Blue: 840

Also a slightly less saturated version:

Same as above except:
Saturation: 45
Color: Custom
Red: 930
Green: 945
Blue: 840

or this one (slightly better black level)
Saturation: 45
Color: Custom
Red: 830
Green: 845
Blue: 740


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

m0j0 said:


> You do definitely have the best settings @Dave Harper! Great job and would really appreciate it if you could share your settings for both when you have time.


+1 on this… @Dave Harper - it would be great to see your ‘best’ settings for both units. Of course nobody has the Global Version, but it would interesting to see all the adjustments you made to understand how much you had to manipulate things to dial in the image and how close to reference you were able to get on the Global version given it’s CMS.

Huge thanks to both you and @ProjectionHead for all your time and efforts in digging into these units! And of course a big nod to you for the HDFury LLDV solution (I wish people would stop calling it a hack) you’ve shared with the community.


----------



## rjyap

humax said:


> Post 4,877 has Chinese T1's service menu settings. I thought so far there is no CMS and only white balance setting works. Did I get the wrong impression?


Yep and only one settings adjustment work that's under User.


----------



## Maqnvm7

rjyap said:


> Yep and only one settings adjustment work that's under User.


I wonder what happens if you watch a Dolby Vision movie and switch to that User picture mode in Mediatek settings.


----------



## rjyap

Maqnvm7 said:


> Here are a couple of pictures comparing the T1 (top) with my LG OLED CX (bottom):
> 
> The color temperature is a bit different, sorry for that. Last picture is pretty impressive imo!


Contrast looks really good on T1. Picture looks more reddish which can be adjusted through RGB balance.


----------



## rjyap

Maqnvm7 said:


> I wonder what happens if you watch a Dolby Vision movie and switch to that User picture mode in Mediatek settings.


I use an HTPC with madVR so no Dolby Vision support. I will try out Office mode and check if Mediatek adjustment for RGB gain/bias work. If yes, that would be great to get max brightness out from the unit.


----------



## Maqnvm7

rjyap said:


> Contrast looks really good on T1. Picture looks more reddish which can be adjusted through RGB balance.


Yeah this was with a custom RGB setting on the T1. The LG was just set to default temperature, which looks bluer in comparison.


----------



## Maqnvm7

rjyap said:


> I use an HTPC with madVR so no Dolby Vision support. I will try out Office mode and check if Mediatek adjustment for RGB gain/bias work. If yes, that would be great to get max brightness out from the unit.


I dont even see the different brightness modes in the Mediatek settings!?


----------



## rjyap

Maqnvm7 said:


> I dont even see the different brightness modes in the Mediatek settings!?


Will to change different brightness modes in Fengmi menu first, then launch projectivity to change the picture settings. Hopefully the brightness mode would stick and will not be overwrite by Mediatek settings.


----------



## AVScope-Noob

The dark predator picture is very impressive. m0j0s pictures always look good probably just copy his settings

With the global and Chinese version differences is the major difference the ability/options to calibrate or hardware differences? Ty


----------



## rjyap

AVScope-Noob said:


> The dark predator picture is very impressive. m0j0s pictures always look good probably just copy his settings
> 
> With the global and Chinese version differences is the major difference the ability/options to calibrate or hardware differences? Ty


If you can calibrate the display with a probe or get access to ISF calibrator, then global unit would be unit I would get depending on the price differences (a few hundreds is reasonable).


----------



## donw

rjyap said:


> Will to change different brightness modes in Fengmi menu first, then launch projectivity to change the picture settings. Hopefully the brightness mode would stick and will not be overwrite by Mediatek settings.


But the question everyone wants answered is what picture settings can one change with Projectivity?


----------



## Koringas

Dave Harper said:


> *Overview*
> We did our setup routine to show both the China and the Global versions of the ForMovie/T1 on the same model screens, a 100” diagonal Spectra Projection ALR, at the same time adjacent to each other, in a flipped format to show the same content in a mirror image in the center space between the screens.
> 
> We set up both projectors through a high end Marantz receiver using its dual HDMI outputs. We fed both projectors with a 4K/24p UHD HDR BT2020 signal from various sources, the main of which was the Spears & Munsil UHD Benchmark 4K Bluray disc. Source content was mainly this excellent UHD Bluray disc. We set the S&M disc to the 1,000 nit authoring version with HDR and BT.2020 color gamut. We played the 1,000 nit version of the demo videos on the disc, as well as many scenes from Mad Max: Fury Road.
> 
> *White Balance, Color Temperature & Grayscale*
> 
> After being able to do a more thorough calibration on the Global using the added CMS/Gains & Cutoffs controls, I then selected the same Office Brightness Mode on the China model. I immediately noticed that the grayscale/color temperature was very different between them, with the China model showing more red tint in the infamous “Horses in the Snow” scene from the S&M disc. I immediately went into the Custom Color Temperature menu on the China but found that it didn’t respond at all to any of my changes to the RGB Gains (as expected here), which are for some reason the only adjustments available. So I realized that I had to change Brightness mode to be able to activate these settings. I changed it to the “Viewing” Mode which allowed me to make some adjustments to the Color Temp/White Balance. I decided to use first a 50% grey patch to do a simple white balance on a mid range greyscale patch, hoping it would give a decent balance between the entire range from 0 - 100%, as well as match the calibrated Global unit to make them about as close as you possibly could visually. After doing so, it didn’t appear to be the best match, so then I tried a 60% patch which was a little better, but finally landed on a 70% grey patch, white balanced using CalMAN, to get it very close visually.
> 
> *Brightness*
> The Global unit was brighter overall, due to being able to use the Office Mode, which is brighter than the Chinese version’s Viewing Mode. I turned on Active Contrast on the China model which made them perceptually closer to one another, as seen by eye.
> 
> *Contrast, Sharpness and Detail*
> The contrast comparison between these two was strange to me. I am under the assumption that they should have around the same contrast ratio, about 3,XXX:1, but the Global version clearly had the edge for some reason visually, both native/sequential and ANSI/Inter-image. Throughout all the scenes of the demo video from Spears & Munsil you could easily see the better depth and contrast on the Global unit. Backgrounds of menus and scenes with black backgrounds clearly had a better black floor. You could also see this in shadow detail scenes like the one with the mountainous desert valley with the town in the valley below, in the shadows. You could really make out the details of the various buildings, lakes, etc. on the Global unit and it also took on a much more detailed and “HDR-Like” appearance, with the water of the lake having a sparkle and shimmer, as real water would.
> 
> Many other scenes throughout the demo videos kept showing this higher level of contrast and details compared to the Chinese unit. Forests were more delineated and the trees and their trunks had more definition and detail to them, with the shadows between and amongst them having more apparent contrast. They just seemed sharper and more realistic. The scene with the bubbling pond in the geyser park scenes also made the water appear more realistic and shimmering, as it would in real life.
> 
> Scene after scene, I can’t think of one instance where the China model was perceptually “better”. Sometimes the colors appeared better on the China model, but this was a trick of the eye because all the colors are oversaturated on the China model since there was no CMS and that’s the way they come out of the box.
> 
> The only thing I can think of that would be the cause of the differences in contrast of each model from scene to scene could be the calibration in the midrange at 70% and the mode choice made when doing it, in this case Viewing Mode. It could have basically been affecting things like gamma and inter-image ANSI Contrast, but that’s a guess since I didn’t have a lot of time to test and calibrate every single mode.
> 
> *Colors*
> After basic white balance gains on the China unit, these two models were initially hard to tell apart. The only real color differences were in the scenes like white snow, blue skies and tan sand type colors. The snow was more reddish tinted, the blue skies took on a deeper (incorrect) blue and sand had a more greenish/yellow tint to it. This is most definitely caused by the fact that the colors are oversaturated out of the box with no CMS to tame them back to reference. Just about everything else on these two projectors were virtually indistinguishable from each other, color wise.
> 
> *Conclusion*
> If you want the extra brightness that Office Mode gives, better perceived contrast, better calibration controls to dial in the image much closer to reference, then the Global Fengmi unit may be the choice for you!
> 
> Is that worth what could be a little more money to purchase? I personally think so! But of course that depends on what the extra cost will be and what those extras you can get with the Global unit means to you in relation to those clearly image improving differences the Global unit gives you. After hours of viewing, I would choose the Global unit personally, but that's coming from an ISF Calibrator's point of view, although since the China unit is SO FAR OFF color wise with no real way to tame it without crazy outboard manipulators apparently (someone please PM link to me what these are), I would have to say my perspective holds good value. In the end, they are both great looking projectors, especially at the respective price points compared to their higher end competition. The Global is just "better".
> 
> The Global version currently isn’t available. The Chinese version on the other hand is available at some Chinese retailers such as Alibaba. I believe ProjectorScreen.com is hoping to be a launch partner for the Global model and may receive some of the heaviest allocations as a premium dealer and be able to ship this model nationwide.
> 
> I would say if you're interested in seeing these units for yourself, I would schedule an appointment to view them in their demo room in northern NJ if you're close by once they decide if they are carrying it and it’s added to their catalog.


Dave, thanks for this initial Review. I would like to know if you noticed any difference in the performance of the two models, because the global model has less memory and a different processor. And also know if it is possible to activate Memc during Dolby Vision playback? Is HDR10+ working? Thanks.


----------



## fancyclown

donw said:


> Did you have to root the T1? Were there any other steps you need to do once ProjectTivy is installed? Have you messed with the CMS yet?


My T1, bought at Nothingbutlabel, came with the old projectivy tools installed. I have just updated it to 4.01, no root. So far I’ve just browsed the settings and been waiting for someone like Dave Harper to tell me what to do 😋


----------



## m0j0

So, I got a Firestick 4k Max on sale from Amazon recently and hooked it up to test out last night. I have to say, it's a pretty good picture for 35 dollars! Here's the settings I went with when testing it last night that I thought looked about on par with my Roku Ultra (though maybe just a slight, slight tad less sharp, and that's a maybe, so it's really close).

(This is with the HDFury Vrroom at 1,000 nits on the DV tab)
4k Max Display Settings:
Video Resolution: Auto
Match Original Frame Rate: Off
Color Depth: Up to 12 bits
Color Format: RGB
Calibrate Display: No Scale
Dynamic Range Settings: Always HDR

Brightness Mode: View Mode
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 53
Contrast: 53
Saturation: 39
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 51
Color: Custom
Red: 863
Green: 945
Blue: 840


----------



## m0j0

Took some more nature pics on the Roku Ultra tonight (still at 1000 nits on the DV tab of the Vrroom). These were the settings I was testing out.

Brightness Mode: View Mode
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 53
Contrast: 48
Saturation: 40
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 51
Color: Custom
Red: 850
Green: 914
Blue: 840


----------



## xrayg1971

Dave Harper said:


> If you could post a link it would really help. I am SO busy and its near impossible to keep up in these threads anymore for ALL these projectors! Does he use an HDFury?
> 
> 
> 
> Apparently I don't have the best settings haha! Which unit are you talking about?


chinese ver


----------



## donw

fancyclown said:


> My T1, bought at Nothingbutlabel, came with the old projectivy tools installed. I have just updated it to 4.01, no root. So far I’ve just browsed the settings and been waiting for someone like Dave Harper to tell me what to do 😋


What kinds of picture controls do you have with Projectivy tools?


----------



## Pauljiang

donw said:


> What kinds of picture controls do you have with Projectivy tools?


After I install the "Projectivy tools" on T1, I find some more detailed settings, and that is very helpful for the release T1 power. I list some foundations or advantages below:

1. install the "Projectivy tools" on T1 just an APP "no" change any firmware(Feng OS).








2. Autofocus function









3. Auto Basic Color Correction
4. W/B adjust(even the "move, game modes...")









5. Picture Modes setting









P.S
. I didn't have projection calibration equipment, so still not sure it will affect the final results


----------



## rooterha

I thought those didn't affect anything currently? Has there been a new update?


----------



## donw

rooterha said:


> I thought those didn't affect anything currently? Has there been a new update?


pauljiang should try drastically modifying one of the colors and see if it changes anything (in all modes).


----------



## Pauljiang

This is a new discovery for me after installing the "Projectivy Tools" app. Perhaps the T1 uses AI calculations through the eye-safe camera and sensor to get the best focal length. The result of the autofocus function is as follows,

1. Adjust the focal distance farthest before focusing (long press the right button)









2. Activate autofocus
ACBE5BB0-8C3B-452A-83E2-C1849206D029.MP4
3. Sharpness after focusing (before and after contrast)


----------



## rjyap

Pauljiang said:


> This is new discovery for me, after installing the "Projectivy tools" app. Perhaps the T1 uses AI computing through the eye-protecting camera and sensor to obtain the best focal length. The result of the autofocus function is as follows,
> 1. Adjust the focal length to the farthest before focusing (long-press the right button)
> 
> 
> 2. Start autofocus
> ACBE5BB0-8C3B-452A-83E2-C1849206D029.MP4
> 3. Sharpness after focusing(compare before and after)


Can you show where the chinese menu for auto focus? I believe majority here can't read mandarin. I saw it somewhere in the menu but never try it as I get a perfect focus so wouldn't want to mess it up.


----------



## rjyap

rooterha said:


> I thought those didn't affect anything currently? Has there been a new update?


Only for picture mode=user. You can try it out by setting the saturation to 0. Picture will become black and white. Not sure what backlight settings do. I try adjust to 0 and up to 100. Doesn't seems to affect anything but I guess should be for laser power.


----------



## donw

rjyap said:


> Will to change different brightness modes in Fengmi menu first, then launch projectivity to change the picture settings. Hopefully the brightness mode would stick and will not be overwrite by Mediatek settings.


Can you test this by setting some really obvious color shift, like high red and let us know if it really works? Would love to have color control in office mode.


----------



## ACE844

How do you start autofocus?


----------



## rjyap

donw said:


> Can you test this by setting some really obvious color shift, like high red and let us know if it really works? Would love to have color control in office mode.


When I setup the probe will try again. Wanted to create 3D LUT for madVR so by measuring the maximum light output will be a better test for office mode.


----------



## okvcos

hello * Pauljiang*

How do you start autofocus?
How does autofocus work? 
Can you explain how to install the app "Projectivy tools" ? step to step


----------



## AVScope-Noob

So I received my t1, opened it up as gently as I’ve ever opened a UPS package before and saw this…that’s not normal right it’s my first UST projector I was afraid to turn it on


----------



## rjyap

AVScope-Noob said:


> So I received my t1, opened it up as gently as I’ve ever opened a UPS package before and saw this…that’s not normal right it’s my first UST projector I was afraid to turn it on


That's a ND filter. Someone took it off and get increase brightness. Looks like it's stick by 2 pieces of double sided tape. Just clean it up and stick it back. No problem to turn it on and check.


----------



## AVScope-Noob

Thanks it doesn’t seem to fit in flush as the the squishy stuff in between got jammed


----------



## Pauljiang

rjyap said:


> Can you show where the chinese menu for auto focus? I believe majority here can't read mandarin. I saw it somewhere in the menu but never try it as I get a perfect focus so wouldn't want to mess it up.


Here is the simple tutorial for those interested in the auto focus feature
people, you can simply follow the steps below to complete autofocus
1. You can mess with your focal length first (adjust to furthest) to get a clear comparison









2. Enter the installed Projectivy Tools APP and select FengOS Engineer Menu

















3. Select the first item









4. Then select the third item to perform auto focus (wait for the chart to jump out to indicate completion)

























5. Jump back to the initial selection page > select the last item > the execution result can know the sharpness of the focus


----------



## rjyap

The last menu mention color correction testing. Not sure what test does it do.


----------



## clipghost

m0j0 said:


> Took some more nature pics on the Roku Ultra tonight (still at 1000 nits on the DV tab of the Vrroom). These were the settings I was testing out.
> 
> Brightness Mode: View Mode
> Image Parameters: Custom
> Brightness: 53
> Contrast: 48
> Saturation: 40
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 51
> Color: Custom
> Red: 850
> Green: 914
> Blue: 840


It's interesting, I know your settings and pictures are gorgeous from the T1, but whenever you post these pictures...the colors look muted/washed out? And then some other ones you posted the BLUES/REDS are super bright. I am thinking it is your phone taking pictures? Or would you say these pictures are pretty accurate?


----------



## m0j0

clipghost said:


> It's interesting, I know your settings and pictures are gorgeous from the T1, but whenever you post these pictures...the colors look muted/washed out? And then some other ones you posted the BLUES/REDS are super bright. I am thinking it is your phone taking pictures? Or would you say these pictures are pretty accurate?


So, yes, I am running the colors and saturation lower and it can look perhaps a bit muted in comparison, but this is done in order to try and obtain a more natural look. When my kids are watching, I run it in Display Mode and it has very vivid and saturated colors, which looks great for kids shows. Also, it has something to do with the content I am watching. As for reds and blues, it could be my camera. I know for sure it oversaturates blues. Not sure about reds. Maybe.


----------



## clipghost

m0j0 said:


> So, yes, I am running the colors and saturation lower and it can look perhaps a bit muted in comparison, but this is done in order to try and obtain a more natural look. When my kids are watching, I run it in Display Mode and it has very vivid and saturated colors, which looks great for kids shows. Also, it has something to do with the content I am watching. As for reds and blues, it could be my camera. I know for sure it oversaturates blues. Not sure about reds. Maybe.


Got it. If you wanted to, could you fix the oversaturation?


----------



## m0j0

clipghost said:


> Got it. If you wanted to, could you fix the oversaturation?


Yes, I am able to set custom RGB settings and saturation levels to make it more or less saturated.


----------



## Maqnvm7

Pauljiang said:


> Here is the simple tutorial for those interested in the auto focus feature
> people, you can simply follow the steps below to complete autofocus
> 1. You can mess with your focal length first (adjust to furthest) to get a clear comparison
> View attachment 3277485
> 
> 
> 2. Enter the installed Projectivy Tools APP and select FengOS Engineer Menu
> View attachment 3277487
> 
> View attachment 3277488
> 
> 
> 3. Select the first item
> View attachment 3277489
> 
> 
> 4. Then select the third item to perform auto focus (wait for the chart to jump out to indicate completion)
> View attachment 3277490
> 
> View attachment 3277492
> 
> View attachment 3277494
> 
> 
> 5. Jump back to the initial selection page > select the last item > the execution result can know the sharpness of the focus
> View attachment 3277495
> 
> View attachment 3277499


Thank you! Auto focus actually improved the top left corner sharpness of my unit!


----------



## ACE844

@Pauljiang thank you that focus trick was a nice tweak it helped the focus on my unit quite abit.

Inspired by @Pauljiang
I decided to be brave and try some minor tweaks. I'm not sure if there's a placebo effect or not.... but it seems to have made a difference for me with the lack of shadow detail and some of the crushing I was experiencing. Here's what I did in case you're also feeling brave and you would like to try this out as well.

I also went into the Mediatech menu-->Design MENU-->factorymenu--> W/B Adjust and
selected my source ( HDMI 1) in this case
scroll down to Picture Mode and changed it to AI PQ
Color temp to user
Adjust Video/UI and selectedAdjust video
<--back to the Design Menu
Down to picture mode
scroll left to AI PQ as selected Option
Then I made my brightness 100
Scrolled down to Sharpness and changed that to 0
Scroll down to backlight and made that 0
back arrow out of everything to ProjectTIVI Home screen and then started content. It cleaned up my image alot and also everything seems shaper and clearer. I haven't tried out native DV content or HDR which i will tonight.

Initially, I am seeing marked improvements in the Unicorn background and scene in inside out as well as in the more challenging scenes of Sicario in 4k. I still see a red push (although it has decreased by about 30% to my eye) in DV content in Jack Ryan I may go back and try manipulating the DV image settings and decreasing the red. It's a bit difficult as you can't see the image changes in real-time when you're in the media tech menu.


----------



## ACE844




----------



## AVScope-Noob

Where do you guys see the FengOS Engineer settings after using proectivy tools?


----------



## jorgemurillo2012

So I recently seen this I don't think I had this before








Has anyone else had this looks rainbowish


----------



## humax

jorgemurillo2012 said:


> So I recently seen this I don't think I had this before



This looks like dirt on lens. Try cleaning it with a soft cloth.


----------



## fancyclown

James Henderson8572 said:


> Hello


🙋‍♂️


----------



## zaselim

Hey guys, how's everyone doing?
I have 2 questions if anyone can answer them.
1. On the left side of my screen i have a connecting wall with a door and dark wall panels but light is reflecting back from them both so What kind of fabric (to absorb the light coming from the screen) do i use for that? I read somewhere that people use black velvet for that.
2. Which is better between (firestick 4k max, support dolby vision) and Roku TV 4k, the one with dolby vision support.








Fire TV Stick 4K Max streaming device


Fire TV Stick 4K Max streaming device, Wi-Fi 6, Alexa Voice Remote (includes TV controls)



www.amazon.ca












Roku Streaming Stick 4K 2021 Streaming Device 4K/HDR/Dolby Vision with Roku Voice Remote and TV Controls, Black: Buy Online at Best Price in UAE - Amazon.ae


Buy Roku Streaming Stick 4K 2021 Streaming Device 4K/HDR/Dolby Vision with Roku Voice Remote and TV Controls, Black online on Amazon.ae at best prices. ✓ Fast and free shipping ✓ free returns ✓ cash on delivery available on eligible purchase.



www.amazon.ae


----------



## humax

zaselim said:


> 1. On the left side of my screen i have a connecting wall with a door and dark wall panels but light is reflecting back from them both so What kind of fabric (to absorb the light coming from the screen) do i use for that? I read somewhere that people use black velvet for that.
> 2. Which is better between (firestick 4k max, support dolby vision) and Roku TV 4k, the one with dolby vision support.




1. Post a picture of the incoming light source, so you can get better answers.

2. I would also consider Firecube 2nd generation.


----------



## zaselim

humax said:


> 1. Post a picture of the incoming light source, so you can get better answers.
> 
> 
> 
> 2. I would also consider Firecube 2nd generation.


Ok i will look into firecube, but what if i only have 2 options between firestick and roku.

Here are the pics


































I dont use that door, it mostly stays shut. I only open it when my AC's outdoor unit needs service.
I had left with some remaining sheet fabric of my screen, so today i put it (the black side ontop) on my door and then covered top part of the screen as well with Black side facing the screen. It made a difference but light was still reflecting off of it from the side.


----------



## humax

Personally, I would try to put something like a black drape above the door or stick black non-reflective material on the door itself.


----------



## gen_x

zaselim said:


> Ok i will look into firecube, but what if i only have 2 options between firestick and roku.
> 
> Here are the pics
> View attachment 3277660
> 
> View attachment 3277659
> 
> View attachment 3277658
> 
> 
> View attachment 3277657
> 
> 
> I dont use that door, it mostly stays shut. I only open it when my AC's outdoor unit needs service.
> I had left with some remaining sheet fabric of my screen, so today i put it (the black side ontop) on my door and then covered top part of the screen as well with Black side facing the screen. It made a difference but light was still reflecting off of it from the side.


What size of screen is that?


----------



## zaselim

humax said:


> Personally, I would try to put something like a black drape above the door or stick black non-reflective material on the door itself.


Are there any black non refelevtive fabrics you can recommend? On google i am getting velvet. 
Thanks.


----------



## zaselim

gen_x said:


> What size of screen is that?


Around 120" (118 or 119), the display(16:9)(1st pic) part. The projector wasn't properly placed when i took the pictures(1st day) and my screen have got wrinkles (you can see the waves on the top and left side) over its span which i will re-adjust.
The whole frame has more inches vertically.
Like this


----------



## humax

For curtains something like that:

AK TRADING CO. 10 feet x 10 feet Polyester Backdrop Drapes Curtains Panels with Rod Pockets - Wedding Ceremony Party Home Window Decorations - Black : Home & Kitchen (amazon.com) 

For adhesive vinyl something like this one:

Amazon.com: ORACAL 651 Permanent Vinyl, 1 Pack, Matte Black : Arts, Crafts & Sewing


----------



## zaselim

humax said:


> For curtains something like that:
> 
> AK TRADING CO. 10 feet x 10 feet Polyester Backdrop Drapes Curtains Panels with Rod Pockets - Wedding Ceremony Party Home Window Decorations - Black : Home & Kitchen (amazon.com)
> 
> For adhesive vinyl something like this one:
> 
> Amazon.com: ORACAL 651 Permanent Vinyl, 1 Pack, Matte Black : Arts, Crafts & Sewing


Thanks.


----------



## humax

zaselim said:


> The projector wasn't properly placed when i took the pictures(1st day) and my screen have got wrinkles (you can see the waves on the top and left side) over its span which i will re-adjust.



You are welcome. So, judging by the wrinkles this is not an ALR screen then? If so, this may be the main root of your problem.


----------



## antjes

Pauljiang said:


> Here is the simple tutorial for those interested in the auto focus feature
> people, you can simply follow the steps below to complete autofocus
> 1. You can mess with your focal length first (adjust to furthest) to get a clear comparison
> View attachment 3277485
> 
> 
> 2. Enter the installed Projectivy Tools APP and select FengOS Engineer Menu
> View attachment 3277487
> 
> View attachment 3277488
> 
> 
> 3. Select the first item
> View attachment 3277489
> 
> 
> 4. Then select the third item to perform auto focus (wait for the chart to jump out to indicate completion)
> View attachment 3277490
> 
> View attachment 3277492
> 
> View attachment 3277494
> 
> 
> 5. Jump back to the initial selection page > select the last item > the execution result can know the sharpness of the focus
> View attachment 3277495
> 
> View attachment 3277499


Thanks. After autocalibration I had to focus manually but process worked for me, so upper corners now are sharper.
I absolutelly recomend this step in the first installation and for those Who are dealing with focus problems.


Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## m0j0

zaselim said:


> Are there any black non refelevtive fabrics you can recommend? On google i am getting velvet.
> Thanks.


What you want is triple black velvet. I use it in my theater and it works amazingly well to completely absorb any light reflections.


----------



## zaselim

humax said:


> You are welcome. So, judging by the wrinkles this is not an ALR screen then? If so, this may be the main root of your problem.


Yeah it is a non alr screen, that is why i have very less speckle because it has very minor texture(dots like) . I have a plan to get a new screen later this year, may be at the end, but I will again get a non alr screen (or fabric) with flat surface. And if alr screen with smooth(flat) surface exist then i will go for that.
Yes my issue is because it is a non alr screen and have no bezels as well.
I had to take off the screen from the wall few times and that is why it got wrinkles (everytime). I stapled the screen on the frame from the back, i will unpin the screen and then re adjust it and then this time i will add rings around the edges on the back to add strings to stretch the screen or i will do it to the new one incase i only get the fabric for the new screen.
The amazing part is, i never felt any wrinkles with my long throw projector even when the fans in my room were on but with T1 i even had to move my AC's throw to the other side because the display was continuously waving because or fan and AC's throw. Lol. Here take a look, the display with my old projector and the screen looks properly stretched which it wasn't(had wrinkles same as it has now).


----------



## Joered101

zaselim said:


> Yeah it is a non alr screen, that is why i have very less speckle because it has very minor texture(dots like) . I have a plan to get a new screen later this year, may be at the end, but I will again get a non alr screen (or fabric) with flat surface. And if alr screen with smooth(flat) surface exist then i will go for that.
> Yes my issue is because it is a non alr screen and have no bezels as well.
> I had to take off the screen from the wall few times and that is why it got wrinkles (everytime). I stapled the screen on the frame from the back, i will unpin the screen and then re adjust it and then this time i will add rings around the edges on the back to add strings to stretch the screen or i will do it to the new one incase i only get the fabric for the new screen.
> The amazing part is, i never felt any wrinkles with my long throw projector even when the fans in my room were on but with T1 i even had to move my AC's throw to the other side because the display was continuously waving because or fan and AC's throw. Lol. Here take a look, the display with my old projector and the screen looks properly stretched which it wasn't(had wrinkles same as it has now).
> View attachment 3277710
> View attachment 3277713
> 
> View attachment 3277711
> 
> View attachment 3277712


What was your old projector?

and how did it compare in image quality to the T1?


----------



## Ricoflashback

zaselim said:


> Yeah it is a non alr screen, that is why i have very less speckle because it has very minor texture(dots like) . I have a plan to get a new screen later this year, may be at the end, but I will again get a non alr screen (or fabric) with flat surface. And if alr screen with smooth(flat) surface exist then i will go for that.
> Yes my issue is because it is a non alr screen and have no bezels as well.
> I had to take off the screen from the wall few times and that is why it got wrinkles (everytime). I stapled the screen on the frame from the back, i will unpin the screen and then re adjust it and then this time i will add rings around the edges on the back to add strings to stretch the screen or i will do it to the new one incase i only get the fabric for the new screen.
> The amazing part is, i never felt any wrinkles with my long throw projector even when the fans in my room were on but with T1 i even had to move my AC's throw to the other side because the display was continuously waving because or fan and AC's throw. Lol. Here take a look, the display with my old projector and the screen looks properly stretched which it wasn't(had wrinkles same as it has now).
> View attachment 3277710
> View attachment 3277713
> 
> View attachment 3277711
> 
> View attachment 3277712


There are some non ALR screens in gray with a thin, black velvet bezel at a 1.0 gain. Probably not optimal for day time viewing with sunlight pouring in but it will definitely work in a more light controlled room. I’m of the opinion that the UST ALR screens can mess with picture quality and a flat surface stretched tight and uniform will reduce visual artifacts. At least that’s my plan when I pickup this PJ in a month or so.


----------



## clipghost

zaselim said:


> Yeah it is a non alr screen, that is why i have very less speckle because it has very minor texture(dots like) . I have a plan to get a new screen later this year, may be at the end, but I will again get a non alr screen (or fabric) with flat surface. And if alr screen with smooth(flat) surface exist then i will go for that.
> Yes my issue is because it is a non alr screen and have no bezels as well.
> I had to take off the screen from the wall few times and that is why it got wrinkles (everytime). I stapled the screen on the frame from the back, i will unpin the screen and then re adjust it and then this time i will add rings around the edges on the back to add strings to stretch the screen or i will do it to the new one incase i only get the fabric for the new screen.
> The amazing part is, i never felt any wrinkles with my long throw projector even when the fans in my room were on but with T1 i even had to move my AC's throw to the other side because the display was continuously waving because or fan and AC's throw. Lol. Here take a look, the display with my old projector and the screen looks properly stretched which it wasn't(had wrinkles same as it has now).
> View attachment 3277710
> View attachment 3277713
> 
> View attachment 3277711
> 
> View attachment 3277712


How are you liking gaming on this projector? Notice the lag?


----------



## zaselim

Joered101 said:


> What was your old projector?
> 
> and how did it compare in image quality to the T1?


My old PJ (traditional throw) was benq's 1080p 2000 lumens , don't remember the model number but i got it in 2012 and it was released in 2011. it had 4000hrs on normal mode and 6000hrs on eco mode. I packed it when I got the T1 on 2nd April and it was at 4500 hrs.
Compared to T1, i don;t even wanna compare it as is is day and night difference. Don't believe the pictures i posed for the picture quality, in person it was less bright and less saturated. My phone camera always caught like it was some good TV as you can see in the pictures. Confusingly, T1 looks way better in person compared these ( old PJ's) pics but my camera catches very dull images of it. And now i am only using my 4k TV for the internet stuff and watch everything on T1 as it on par with my TV and better in some dark HDR content. 1080p content looks better on T1 than my TV.
Its has 2-3 negatives but they are very negligible and I am super happy with it.
I watched Sonic the Hedgehog part 1 today and it looked amazing, i noticed 2 dark scenes (no light) where some of the background stuff like picture frame more visible on my TV but when i went in view mode with Dynamic Contrast on and increased brightness from 52 to 53 then it become better then the TV.


----------



## zaselim

clipghost said:


> How are you liking gaming on this projector? Notice the lag?


Yes on competitive games ( i don't play shooter or online games that much), can't play tekken 7 and street fighter 5 on it properly. But in single player games i don't notice it even on custom (non gaming modes) mode. I enjoyed the games (the last of us 2, Resident Evil Remake 2 and 3, 7 and 8, Horizon Zero Dawn and playing AC Syndicate) i played on T1 more than when i played them on my 4k TV or previous projector.


----------



## clipghost

zaselim said:


> Yes on competitive games ( i don't play shooter or online games that much), can't play tekken 7 and street fighter 5 on it properly. But in single player games i don't notice it even on custom (non gaming modes) mode. I enjoyed the games (the last of us 2, Resident Evil Remake 2 and 3, 7 and 8, Horizon Zero Dawn and playing AC Syndicate) i played on T1 more than when i played them on my 4k TV or previous projector.


Great to hear! I play a bunch of single player games as well (not competitive shooters either). HOWEVER, let's say it was a shooter, is it still playable or pretty bad?


----------



## rooterha

clipghost said:


> Great to hear! I play a bunch of single player games as well (not competitive shooters either). HOWEVER, let's say it was a shooter, is it still playable or pretty bad?


It's playable in game mode. Similar to the L9G and I got to diamond 3 on halo with it.


----------



## clipghost

rooterha said:


> It's playable in game mode. Similar to the L9G and I got to diamond 3 on halo with it.


You returned the L9G for the T1. You happy with your decision in the end?


----------



## zaselim

clipghost said:


> Great to hear! I play a bunch of single player games as well (not competitive shooters either). HOWEVER, let's say it was a shooter, is it still playable or pretty bad?


I don't play typical shooters so I can't say. I really want to play re-play Uncharted 4 and lost legacy (these are kind of shooters lol) again on T1 but I heard that PC release will be releasing in June so i am waiting for them to drop on PC and recently(January 2022) I re-played Uncharted 2 and 3 HD collection on my 4K TV so I am gonna wait for at least 6 to 8 months to replay Uncharted 2 but eventually i will play them both on T1 as well. I think I may have Crysis 3 installed, I will try it If i still have it in one of my HDD(my backup of installed games) when i get the time.
In God Of War you need precise timing to counter attacks and on game mode i was doing it like i normally would so I think single player shooters will play fine. From 16(TV) to 38~43ms(T1-Game mode) is not that much of a gap for single player or non competitive games i think.


----------



## AVScope-Noob

I’ve only had my t1 for about a day, but only complaints are the hdmi handshake, fengOS and I have difficulty getting full focus on the top corners, spent 2 hours trying to get it right. I don’t really notice the focus when watching stuff though. Also, a weird thing is the PQ looks better on the wall than when I tried my white 1.0 elite screen no matter what I tweaked it looked worse on the screen, it is not a ust or alr screen so for now I will just let it ride on my wall until I get a .8 alr…seems odd. 

The blacks for me are the most impressive thing, I have an optoma uhd30 that they use this dynamic black and it is quite a bit worse compared to the t1.


----------



## humax

AVScope-Noob said:


> The blacks for me are the most impressive thing, I have an optoma uhd30 that they use this dynamic black and it is quite a bit worse compared to the t1.



The funny part is they both basically use the same 0.47" DMD, yet UST and ALPD produce different results. Tri-laser vs lamp and color wheel makes a big difference also. I guess pretty soon you will not be able to stand your old projector's picture. Enjoy the T1!


----------



## badboris

Been silently following this thread daily for a while.

Information is sparse online but maybe someone here knows how the Xiaomi C2 compares to the T1 (seem similar). Im tech savvy but also don’t want to constantly change settings. Don’t mind adding an HDfury if it helps.

Large open living room can’t be light controlled but can limit direct light to the screen. Its for TV during day and movies at night. Latter is more important

Thank you all for all you’re valuable input!!!


----------



## clipghost

badboris said:


> Been silently following this thread daily for a while.
> 
> Information is sparse online but maybe someone here knows how the Xiaomi C2 compares to the T1 (seem similar). Im tech savvy but also don’t want to constantly change settings. Don’t mind adding an HDfury if it helps.
> 
> Large open living room can’t be light controlled but can limit direct light to the screen. Its for TV during day and movies at night. Latter is more important
> 
> Thank you all for all you’re valuable input!!!


I am on the same hunt and currently between this and Hisense L9G


----------



## rooterha

I would do the l9g in a living room that can't be heavily light controlled. L9g had better performance when I open my shades.

If you can't deal with hdmi handshake quirks I.e. kids or wife using it, go with l9g

if you can light control well or are using it at night, go with the t1 without a doubt


----------



## clipghost

rooterha said:


> I would do the l9g in a living room that can't be heavily light controlled. L9g had better performance when I open my shades.
> 
> If you can't deal with hdmi handshake quirks I.e. kids or wife using it, go with l9g
> 
> if you can light control well or are using it at night, go with the t1 without a doubt


But I can't stand the greys from the blacks. T1 has better black levels. Is it really that hard for someone who is not technically skilled to use?


----------



## rooterha

clipghost said:


> But I can't stand the greys from the blacks. T1 has better black levels. Is it really that hard for someone who is not technically skilled to use?


Depends on the person... my wife could figure it out but if she had to switch hdmi to 2.0 and back to 2.1 constantly I know it would piss her off


----------



## clipghost

rooterha said:


> Depends on the person... my wife could figure it out but if she had to switch hdmi to 2.0 and back to 2.1 constantly I know it would piss her off


Why do you have to switch between HDMI 2.0 and 2.1? Is that in the settings or is that physically changing HDMI cables on it?


----------



## badboris

rooterha said:


> I would do the l9g in a living room that can't be heavily light controlled. L9g had better performance when I open my shades.
> 
> If you can't deal with hdmi handshake quirks I.e. kids or wife using it, go with l9g
> 
> if you can light control well or are using it at night, go with the t1 without a doubt


Yea, issue for me is it can’t seem to come close to black. I’m not even coming from OLED so not like I’m spoiled.

The DV option and contrast is what drew me towards the T1 and wondering if C2 is similar in contrast. I’m ok with making concessions for day viewing, I just can’t deal with lack of blacks at night for movie watching.


----------



## humax

badboris said:


> Information is sparse online but maybe someone here knows how the Xiaomi C2 compares to the T1 (seem similar).



There is already a thread on this by a fellow member who owns both units:

(39) Sibling Rivalry: Fengmi T1 vs Xiaomi C2 Head 2 Head Test Photo & Video | AVS Forum


----------



## humax

clipghost said:


> But I can't stand the greys from the blacks. T1 has better black levels. Is it really that hard for someone who is not technically skilled to use?



Global version with its official android 11 should be easier to use. If you have it ISF calibrated, you should also get a set and forget picture. Software bugs will take longer to be ironed out. Like already explained, if you want it mostly for daylight viewing, something like AWOL-3500 may be a better choice.


----------



## badboris

humax said:


> There is already a thread on this by a fellow member who owns both units:
> 
> (39) Sibling Rivalry: Fengmi T1 vs Xiaomi C2 Head 2 Head Test Photo & Video | AVS Forum


Thanks but read that thread prior. It was informative but still left me uncertain. C2 seems the obvious OOTB winner (for now) but T1 has better contrast and colors, which is why I’m asking this T1 group for input. This thread just is much more active than anything I can find for the C2.

I’m left on the fence and will likely wait for the T1 global version. But then of course is pending firmware update for L9g and px1 pro for DV …and what I read AWOL applied for DV certification too and it’s hella bright.

Lol, decisions decisions.


----------



## AVScope-Noob

From what I’ve read and my observations c2 is probably the safer bet or just wait for global version of t1. Contrast/blacks seem similar and a lot less tweaking on the c2 side basically plug and play, they use very similar tech except for tri laser on t1. From pictures online T1 has more vibrant and pop in its colors but takes a lot more work to get there. I’m using lattiboy‘s settings with no hdfury or anything with roku ultra on bare wall and it looks good but I’ve only had t1 for 1 day though so just touched the surface…

I have a 77 inch Sony a8oj in my basement so the OLED hasn’t completely spoiled me with its blacks/contrasts plus a good reference point for top tier PQ

biggest gripe is the hdmi handshake


----------



## humax

badboris said:


> C2 seems the obvious OOTB winner (for now) but T1 has better contrast and colors, which is why I’m asking this T1 group for input. This thread just is much more active than anything I can find for the C2.



Gregory has measured 3204:1 contrast for the C2 and 2975:1 for the Chinese T1. No number on global version yet.

He has mentioned C2 is indeed more color accurate OOTB. whereas T1 has wider color gamut but oversaturated colors OOTB.

T1 has no CMS so far, global version has it. C2 also has no CMS.




badboris said:


> But then of course is pending firmware update for L9g and px1 pro for DV …and what I read AWOL applied for DV certification too and it’s hella bright.


DV support will provide better tone mapping, but will not make contrast and black levels better.

Yes, AWOL seems by far the brightest tri-laser yet.


----------



## humax

AVScope-Noob said:


> biggest gripe is the hdmi handshake



Keep bugging their customer support, until they get it fixed. This is the first time they appear so responsive to customer requests, probably due to the number of T1 units sold stateside. This was not the case so far, even with their more recent models.


----------



## badboris

humax said:


> Gregory has measured 3204:1 contrast for the C2 and 2975:1 for the Chinese T1. No number on global version yet.
> 
> He has mentioned C2 is indeed more color accurate OOTB. whereas T1 has wider color gamut but oversaturated colors OOTB.
> 
> T1 has no CMS so far, global version has it. C2 also has no CMS.
> 
> DV support will provide better tone mapping, but will not make contrast and black levels better.
> 
> Yes, AWOL seems by far the brightest tri-laser yet.


Doesn’t DV improve on perceived contrast (I forget the tech term) and Wasn’t Gregory’s review an early firmware, and not representative of the T1 now?

Appreciate the info!


----------



## ProFragger

About to get my T1 this week. Never owned a projector before or heavy AV equipment, in general. Best thing I got was a flagship QLED 3 years ago... Excited to learn and enjoy the new world... 

With that said.. Can anyone explain it like I'm 5...whwt is the HDMI handshake issue? And any known fixes or workarounds for it?. 

Thanks!


----------



## eezrider

ProFragger said:


> About to get my T1 this week. Never owned a projector before or heavy AV equipment, in general. Best thing I got was a flagship QLED 3 years ago... Excited to learn and enjoy the new world...
> 
> With that said.. Can anyone explain it like I'm 5...whwt is the HDMI handshake issue? And any known fixes or workarounds for it?.
> 
> Thanks!


When you boot the T1 you will sometimes find it has failed to handshake/sync with your player and drops back to HDMI 1.4, so res is limited to 1080p. The fix is to manually change the HDMI version in the T1 play settings. Changing to HDMI 2.0 or 2.1 typically causes a resync and all is good. It's annoying and easy to miss.


----------



## humax

badboris said:


> Doesn’t DV improve on perceived contrast (I forget the tech term) and Wasn’t Gregory’s review an early firmware, and not representative of the T1 now?
> Appreciate the info!



Yes, DV's dynamic metadata may help a weaker contrast unit display a more dynamic image, if the material allows for it. However, a higher native contrast unit will show an even more dynamic image with the same material, if there is not a major difference in both units' brightness. Then, a lot of people still watch SDR and 1080p or the material itself is hazy/muddy/with an elevated black floor for a more cinematic look even in HDR. Again, a better contrast unit will help with a more three-dimentional/less hazy picture in such scenarios. In short, contrast is the main pillar of a good image, even in the era of HDR formats.

True, Gregory reviewed the T1 with the 1.4 firmware and FengOS 2.0 is a big improvement, however most users suggest the use of a HD Fury for a more balanced image. They have spent hundreds of hours on their units, so they should know better than me. Global version's CMS should make the use of an external device unnecessary.


----------



## mirzank

humax said:


> Gregory has measured 3204:1 contrast for the C2 and 2975:1 for the Chinese T1. No number on global version yet.
> 
> He has mentioned C2 is indeed more color accurate OOTB. whereas T1 has wider color gamut but oversaturated colors OOTB.


On the point of contrast I’m wondering isn’t the whole reason t1 seems to be more popular than c2 because of the contrast? I’ve been reading this thread for more than now and it seems the big thing with t1 is how the colours pop and the contrast of the t1. If the c2 beats t1 on contrast isn’t that the better bet then? Ofcourse fengmi 2.0 might change that. 
I already have 1 t1 but need a second one so wondering if I should stick with t1 or go with c2.


----------



## gwynned

Hello,
I really want to order a formovie T1, and I'm looking for the best place to buy (delivery in France). Many people talk about "nothingbutlabel", but I'm worried: very few reviews, no paypal payment, an address in France in the "about us" (siki eagle sarl, 69100 Villeurbanne), an Australian telephone number ( I understand it was an Australia-based store). I just send a mail to have information, but it's late in Australia.
Anyone have up-to-date information on this store ?


----------



## rjyap

mirzank said:


> On the point of contrast I’m wondering isn’t the whole reason t1 seems to be more popular than c2 because of the contrast? I’ve been reading this thread for more than now and it seems the big thing with t1 is how the colours pop and the contrast of the t1. If the c2 beats t1 on contrast isn’t that the better bet then? Ofcourse fengmi 2.0 might change that.
> I already have 1 t1 but need a second one so wondering if I should stick with t1 or go with c2.


C2 is only slightly better in contrast but T1 main selling point is wide color gamut which make color deeper and more colorful. For SDR movie (1080p blu ray) T1 will not have any advantage but HDR/Dolby Vision movie that use DCI-P3 or Rec 2020 color will look better on T1. Take a look at the screenshot eye candy thread and you can easily identified which photo from tri laser projector vs single/dual laser unit.


----------



## humax

mirzank said:


> If the c2 beats t1 on contrast isn’t that the better bet then?



It probably measures a bit better in contrast, because it is less bright, which in turn will affect C2's daylight performance.


----------



## humax

gwynned said:


> Anyone have up-to-date information on this store ?



I am also thinking about ordering the global version from them. They seem to have a European warehouse for continental shipping. Members here have posted positive feedback. It is only them and Banggood as T1's main vendors in Europe anyway.


----------



## JereyWolf

gwynned said:


> Hello,
> I really want to order a formovie T1, and I'm looking for the best place to buy (delivery in France). Many people talk about "nothingbutlabel", but I'm worried: very few reviews, no paypal payment, an address in France in the "about us" (siki eagle sarl, 69100 Villeurbanne), an Australian telephone number ( I understand it was an Australia-based store). I just send a mail to have information, but it's late in Australia.
> Anyone have up-to-date information on this store ?


Many people here have ordered from Nothing But Label. I had a great experience with them too.


----------



## nigel749

JereyWolf said:


> Many people here have ordered from Nothing But Label. I had a great experience with them too.


I bought from these for delivery to New Zealand - arrived today after 16 days wait, delivered from their China warehouse. All preconfigured to English menus and ProjecTivy Tools App preinstalled for easier setup. All in all a good experience dealing with this company.


----------



## Vcnzo

gwynned said:


> Hello,
> I really want to order a formovie T1, and I'm looking for the best place to buy (delivery in France). Many people talk about "nothingbutlabel", but I'm worried: very few reviews, no paypal payment, an address in France in the "about us" (siki eagle sarl, 69100 Villeurbanne), an Australian telephone number ( I understand it was an Australia-based store). I just send a mail to have information, but it's late in Australia.
> Anyone have up-to-date information on this store ?


Je suis un peu dans le même cas que toi. Alors je suis allé voir sur societe.com:
Société Siki Eagle domiciliée à Villeurbanne depuis à peu près an, auparavant domiciliée Avenue des Champs Elysées à Paris (une boite postale j'imagine).
Et deux gérants de respectivement 72 et 78 ans.
Si la société est vraiment basée en France, alors les CGV ne respectent pas la réglementation. Notamment sur le non respect du délai légal de rétractation.

Translation :

I'm kind of in the same situation as you. So I went to see on societe.com:
Siki Eagle company domiciled in Villeurbanne since about a year, previously domiciled Avenue des Champs Elysées in Paris (a post office box I guess).
And two managers, respectively 72 and 78 years old.
If the company is really based in France, then the vending terms do not respect the regulation. In particular on the non respect of the legal delay of retraction.


----------



## antjes

gwynned said:


> Hello,
> I really want to order a formovie T1, and I'm looking for the best place to buy (delivery in France). Many people talk about "nothingbutlabel", but I'm worried: very few reviews, no paypal payment, an address in France in the "about us" (siki eagle sarl, 69100 Villeurbanne), an Australian telephone number ( I understand it was an Australia-based store). I just send a mail to have information, but it's late in Australia.
> Anyone have up-to-date information on this store ?


Good experience with NBL, as far as I remembered I paid with PayPal.

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Dakons

gwynned said:


> Bonjour,
> J'ai très envie de commander un formovie T1, et je cherche le meilleur endroit pour acheter (livraison en France). Beaucoup de gens parlent de "nothingbutlabel", mais je suis inquiet : très peu d'avis, pas de paiement paypal, une adresse en France dans le "qui sommes-nous" (siki eagle sarl, 69100 Villeurbanne), un numéro de téléphone australien (je comprends que c'était un magasin basé en Australie). Je viens d'envoyer un mail pour avoir des informations, mais il est tard en Australie.
> Quelqu'un a-t-il des informations à jour sur ce magasin ?
> [/DEVIS]
> tu peux y aller les yeux fermés j'ai commandé chez eux et aucun problème ils ont un entrepôt en Europe du coup la livraison est très rapide, faut juste surveiller les stocks en Europe


----------



## Diego Arno

Vcnzo said:


> Je suis un peu dans le même cas que toi. Alors je suis allé voir sur societe.com:
> Société Siki Eagle domiciliée à Villeurbanne depuis à peu près an, auparavant domiciliée Avenue des Champs Elysées à Paris (une boite postale j'imagine).
> Et deux gérants de respectivement 72 et 78 ans.
> Si la société est vraiment basée en France, alors les CGV ne respectent pas la réglementation. Notamment sur le non respect du délai légal de rétractation.
> 
> Translation :
> 
> I'm kind of in the same situation as you. So I went to see on societe.com:
> Siki Eagle company domiciled in Villeurbanne since about a year, previously domiciled Avenue des Champs Elysées in Paris (a post office box I guess).
> And two managers, respectively 72 and 78 years old.
> If the company is really based in France, then the vending terms do not respect the regulation. In particular on the non respect of the legal delay of retraction.


I'm based in France as well (78) and just ordered the international version with them.
Should be sent early June from what they told me 
Heard good things about their customer service, but it's true it seems they don't comply much with the EU rules (warranty and right to send the product back within 14days)
Didn't offer me to pay with PayPal unfortunately


----------



## 3sprit

rjyap said:


> C2 is only slightly better in contrast


Xiaomi C2 no “speckle”.


Test Xiaomi laser Cinéma 2 : l’avis de Grégory. – – Le Blog de PHC –


----------



## murdocd3

Hello, congratulations for the level of information shared in this topic, they are very enlightening.
I'm also looking for the best seller option, banggood, alibaba or nothing But Label, because I live in Brazil.

1 - I will make a considerable leap when migrating from an Optoma gt1080 darbee to the Fengmi T1 4K,
Can anyone summarize the experience with this gaming projector? Response time estimate?
I'm coming from just 16ms.


----------



## humax

murdocd3 said:


> I'm also looking for the best seller option, banggood, alibaba or nothing But Label, because I live in Brazil.



I think there is another user from Brazil here who can advise you. Just make sure the seller declares a lower value, otherwise import taxes will hit you pretty hard.

As for gaming, you current projector has one of the best input lags ever. I don't game much, but from what I can gather T1 is fine for non-demanding single player gaming and just OK for online use. YMMV.


----------



## pinktri

Thanks for all the information in this thread. I plan to buy from nbl when the global version becomes available. Question: if I purchase the video calibration service thru them will the T1 be pretty much plug and play out of the box? Don’t want to get too deep in settings after my stint with elite plasmas/lcd’s. Also plan on getting the xy screen pet crystal thru them, good choice? Wondering if I should find a screen with less gain? Will be used in basement in controlled environment but canned lights will be on for TV/cable viewing.


----------



## humax

pinktri said:


> if I purchase the video calibration service thru them will the T1 be pretty much plug and play out of the box?



They do seem to provide a before and after report and their calibration equipment looks decent enough, so you should be fine, if you are OK with the extra cost.


----------



## nigel749

Hi everyone, my T1 eventually arrived yesterday from China warehouse (Nothingbutlabel). Got it all setup and it looks great partnered with a Vividstorm floor up ALR screen. The screen comes with a USB remote trigger for opening/closing the screen when the projector is powered off. However, I am having an issue with this when powering down the projector! The projector does it countdown thing when you hit the power off button and shuts down correctly. The screen then starts to close a few seconds later, but when about 1/2 way closed, the projector powers up again and the screen goes back up! Very annoying and I haven't been able to figure out what's causing it. Works fine when powering up. Anyone else had experience with this issue? 

After getting the screen aligned, we watched AVATAR in 4K with DTS soundtrack - WOW it was AMAZING! Colors were out of this world, vibrant and popping, also the motion sequences were very crisp but I did notice a bit of judder on some of the really fast sequences. Any advice on what settings to use to correct this?


----------



## humax

nigel749 said:


> After getting the screen aligned, we watched AVATAR in 4K with DTS soundtrack - WOW it was AMAZING!



A wall-mounted floor screen. That's a first. Nicely done, my friend! Do you have it sitting on metal plates screwed on the wall, if I can make out correctly?


----------



## nigel749

humax said:


> A wall-mounted floor screen. That's a first. Nicely done, my friend! Do you have it sitting on metal plates screwed on the wall, if I can make out correctly?


yes @humax you have it correct - sturdy brackets purchased as optional extras with the screen. It was a bit tricky, as we have cavity sliding doors to the RHS of the screen, so had to ensure RHS bracket was outside of the door travel area to avoid screws damaging the door. Other side was easy, as I could locate a stud in the wall to secure firmly. Used GIB anchors for holes I couldn't find stud, so its super sturdy on the wall - Sits right level with the top of our entertainment stand, so worked out perfect. May replace this stand shortly with something longer to give it a better look.


----------



## gen_x

gen_x said:


> Hey everyone I am having trouble finding a screen that is 133" for the T1. Looks like there may be limitations with screen material for anything larger than 120". The ones that I have found are very expensive. Any suggestions for a ALR that would work . FYI for those who may be in the same boat do not buy a long throw ALR thinking that it would work for the T1. It does not.


Just bumping in case someone has any info.


----------



## humax

gen_x said:


> Just bumping in case someone has any info.



Since I do not know your budget, I would look into a 133" fixed frame grey screen available in your own country. Something like this one:

eGalaxy ® 133" 16:9 Fixed Frame Projector Screen (Grey) PSF133AG | FACTORY DIRECT SALE


----------



## AVScope-Noob

What screens does everyone recommend for the T1? I’m looking for a fixed frame, at what size does image quality suffer? Just messing around on the wall it seems like 120 is the sweet spot for me but appears many go larger. Thx


----------



## ProFragger

eezrider said:


> When you boot the T1 you will sometimes find it has failed to handshake/sync with your player and drops back to HDMI 1.4, so res is limited to 1080p. The fix is to manually change the HDMI version in the T1 play settings. Changing to HDMI 2.0 or 2.1 typically causes a resync and all is good. It's annoying and easy to miss.


Thank you for your explanation. Is the 1080p resolution immediately recognizable after the projector is turned on? 

Appreciate your help!


----------



## dami1337

ProFragger said:


> Thank you for your explanation. Is the 1080p resolution immediately recognizable after the projector is turned on?
> 
> Appreciate your help!


yes it is instantly recognize-able. Maybe not for wife and kids so I am usually only when I am back at home switching it back to 2.1. Can be quickly checked also by going into ATV display settings and you suddenly see 1080p Dolby Vision instead of 4k.

This issue is after some time the main bummer for me and starting to regret not waiting for international version (unless it is also an issue with that). Hoping for a firmware fix but nothing yet.


----------



## clipghost

Anyone in Los Angeles area have this projector I could check out?


----------



## Malaveae

Hi T1 Owners,
I have been using my home theater speakers ignoring the T1 B&W speakers. I want to know if we can get both working at the same time using for example the HD Fury Arcana? I don´t remember if @lattiboy or @m0j0 have test this (after +5000 posts) Or we can apply any other hiding trick with projectivy or bluetooth connection? 

Just wondering if we can use the T1 speakers and complement with a non-Fengmi subwoofer solution.


----------



## mcusman2012

humax said:


> Since I do not know your budget, I would look into a 133" fixed frame grey screen available in your own country. Something like this one:
> 
> eGalaxy ® 133" 16:9 Fixed Frame Projector Screen (Grey) PSF133AG | FACTORY DIRECT SALE


 i have a light controlled room so should i go with PET CRYSTAL CLR fixed frame for my c2? Also in my same room i have optoma uhd50 which i use with roof drop down plane white vinyl screen having few wrinkles as well. Is there any screen which can be used with both(long throw and UST) without losing picture quality? Since i will use optoma for 3d movies. Please guide.


----------



## gen_x

humax said:


> Since I do not know your budget, I would look into a 133" fixed frame grey screen available in your own country. Something like this one:
> 
> eGalaxy ® 133" 16:9 Fixed Frame Projector Screen (Grey) PSF133AG | FACTORY DIRECT SALE


Thanks for the info much aopreciated. I am looking for something under 1k preferably alr for the T1. If there are any other options please share. I hit a roadblock for anything above 120". I had bought a long throw alr as the seller informed that it would work but it did not perform as well as my 10 year old epson and was dim.


----------



## HCMKII

Hi,

I am only a "rookie" user. I was not satisfied with the original colors. So I followed your various settings indicated in the forum. Then, after calibrating my iMac screen, I decided to calibrate my projector with my "Calibrite display plus" probe.

I share my results with you. I remind you, I'm not a pro.

The result (skin color, sky color, brightness, etc.) is really good.


I bought my projector from NBL in March. Shipped from Europe (stock Belgium). Price including VAT, 3-year warranty. With FengOS1.4 menu in English preinstalled and projectivy installed. In addition, NBL is very responsive to questions by email.

Regards

Pascal


----------



## HCMKII

HCMKII said:


> View attachment 3278758
> 
> View attachment 3278764
> 
> View attachment 3278762
> 
> View attachment 3278760
> 
> View attachment 3278763
> 
> View attachment 3278761
> 
> View attachment 3278757
> 
> View attachment 3278759
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I am only a "rookie" user. I was not satisfied with the original colors. So I followed your various settings indicated in the forum. Then, after calibrating my iMac screen, I decided to calibrate my projector with my "Calibrite display plus" probe.
> 
> I share my results with you. I remind you, I'm not a pro.
> 
> The result (skin color, sky color, brightness, etc.) is really good.
> 
> 
> I bought my projector from NBL in March. Shipped from Europe (stock Belgium). Price including VAT, 3-year warranty. With FengOS1.4 menu in English preinstalled and projectivy installed. In addition, NBL is very responsive to questions by email.
> 
> Regards
> 
> Pascal


----------



## m0j0

HCMKII said:


> View attachment 3278758
> 
> View attachment 3278764
> 
> View attachment 3278762
> 
> View attachment 3278760
> 
> View attachment 3278763
> 
> View attachment 3278761
> 
> View attachment 3278757
> 
> View attachment 3278759
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I am only a "rookie" user. I was not satisfied with the original colors. So I followed your various settings indicated in the forum. Then, after calibrating my iMac screen, I decided to calibrate my projector with my "Calibrite display plus" probe.
> 
> I share my results with you. I remind you, I'm not a pro.
> 
> The result (skin color, sky color, brightness, etc.) is really good.
> 
> 
> I bought my projector from NBL in March. Shipped from Europe (stock Belgium). Price including VAT, 3-year warranty. With FengOS1.4 menu in English preinstalled and projectivy installed. In addition, NBL is very responsive to questions by email.
> 
> Regards
> 
> Pascal


Thanks for sharing! The custom color screenshot is hard to read for Red, but I think it says 890, is that correct?


----------



## HCMKII

Hi, Yes m0j0. The Red color is set to 890. I have only an apple tv connected to my T1. I ajusted in order to get RGB on the same line. For information, my screen is a Lumene MOVIE PALACE UHD 4K extra bright 120 inch.


----------



## HCMKII

Hi, Yes m0j0 Red is set to 890. I have only an apple tv connected to my T1. I ajusted in order to get RGB on the same line. My screen is a Lumene MOVIE PALACE UHD extra bright 120 pouces


----------



## kklwin

nigel749 said:


> However, I am having an issue with this when powering down the projector! The projector does it countdown thing when you hit the power off button and shuts down correctly. The screen then starts to close a few seconds later, but when about 1/2 way closed, the projector powers up again and the screen goes back up! Very annoying and I haven't been able to figure out what's causing it. Works fine when powering up. Anyone else had experience with this issue?


I have the same setup and having a similar issue. My screen opens when T1 power up but never closes down after T1 power off.
I contacted to vividstorm but so far no solution to resolve this issue.


----------



## humax

gen_x said:


> Thanks for the info much aopreciated. I am looking for something under 1k preferably alr for the T1. If there are any other options please share. I hit a roadblock for anything above 120". I had bought a long throw alr as the seller informed that it would work but it did not perform as well as my 10 year old epson and was dim.



For that kind of money plus shipping, what you can realistically expect is a 100" Pet Crystal or a 120" Pet Grid or a 133"/135" Grey screen. A 133" Pet Grid alone costs 1300$ and this is without shipping or possible taxes. Grey screen is OK with UST as long as you don't do much daytime viewing.


----------



## lattiboy

HCMKII said:


> View attachment 3278758
> 
> View attachment 3278764
> 
> View attachment 3278762
> 
> View attachment 3278760
> 
> View attachment 3278763
> 
> View attachment 3278761
> 
> View attachment 3278757
> 
> View attachment 3278759
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I am only a "rookie" user. I was not satisfied with the original colors. So I followed your various settings indicated in the forum. Then, after calibrating my iMac screen, I decided to calibrate my projector with my "Calibrite display plus" probe.
> 
> I share my results with you. I remind you, I'm not a pro.
> 
> The result (skin color, sky color, brightness, etc.) is really good.
> 
> 
> I bought my projector from NBL in March. Shipped from Europe (stock Belgium). Price including VAT, 3-year warranty. With FengOS1.4 menu in English preinstalled and projectivy installed. In addition, NBL is very responsive to questions by email.
> 
> Regards
> 
> Pascal


Maybe it’s that you’re running 1.4, but those settings are insanely washed out on my T1. Are you using an HD Fury device?


----------



## AVScope-Noob

Yeah I was wondering with the brightness that high if it would be washed out as I had issues with that if I tried to tweak it myself with higher brightness


----------



## HCMKII

No, T1 running OS2.0, but I use an extra bright screen.


----------



## HCMKII

AVScope-Noob said:


> Yeah I was wondering with the brightness that high if it would be washed out as I had issues with that if I tried to tweak it myself with higher brightness


----------



## humax

mcusman2012 said:


> i have a light controlled room so should i go with PET CRYSTAL CLR fixed frame for my c2? Also in my same room i have optoma uhd50 which i use with roof drop down plane white vinyl screen having few wrinkles as well. Is there any screen which can be used with both(long throw and UST) without losing picture quality? Since i will use optoma for 3d movies. Please guide.




I can only speak of what I have used. In short, no. Whatever kind of screen you choose there will be small compromises with each different projector. I have already mentioned the 100" Blitzwolf ALR screen from Banggood, which my friend and I have tested with a Wemax A300 and a long throw Acer UHD model. It worked fine in both cases, but we did not test how it performs with 3D. Its daylight performance also was not equal to a Pet Crystal, but that's to be expected for the price.


----------



## donw

HCMKII said:


> View attachment 3278758
> 
> View attachment 3278764
> 
> View attachment 3278762
> 
> View attachment 3278760
> 
> View attachment 3278763
> 
> View attachment 3278761
> 
> View attachment 3278757
> 
> View attachment 3278759
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I am only a "rookie" user. I was not satisfied with the original colors. So I followed your various settings indicated in the forum. Then, after calibrating my iMac screen, I decided to calibrate my projector with my "Calibrite display plus" probe.
> 
> I share my results with you. I remind you, I'm not a pro.
> 
> The result (skin color, sky color, brightness, etc.) is really good.
> 
> 
> I bought my projector from NBL in March. Shipped from Europe (stock Belgium). Price including VAT, 3-year warranty. With FengOS1.4 menu in English preinstalled and projectivy installed. In addition, NBL is very responsive to questions by email.
> 
> Regards
> 
> Pascal


Did you use Projectivy tools to calibrate? Does the calibration work during Dolby Vision playback?


----------



## humax

"Malaveae, post: 61662918, member: 9600423"]
Just wondering if we can use the T1 speakers and complement with a non-Fengmi subwoofer solution.


I want to do the same with a spare 12" Yamaha SW I have laying around. I found this audio extractor as a possible solution, but the price makes me think twice about trying it.

SHARC-V2 8k eARC Audio Processor (thenaudio.com)


----------



## Ricoflashback

humax said:


> "Malaveae, post: 61662918, member: 9600423"]
> Just wondering if we can use the T1 speakers and complement with a non-Fengmi subwoofer solution.
> 
> 
> I want to do the same with a spare 12" Yamaha SW I have laying around. I found this audio extractor as a possible solution, but the price makes me think twice about trying it.
> 
> SHARC-V2 8k eARC Audio Processor (thenaudio.com)


How does this enable a sub connection with your T1?


----------



## humax

Ricoflashback said:


> How does this enable a sub connection with your T1?



It has line-level RCA outputs and it is hdmi 2.1 for all-format passthrough. Of course, someone has to test it first in order to see if it actually works trouble-free with a sub.


----------



## Ricoflashback

humax said:


> It has line-level RCA outputs and it is hdmi 2.1 for all-format passthrough. Of course, someone has to test it first in order to see if it actually works trouble-free with a sub.


Thanks. From the picture, I assume you’re talking about the 3.5mm headphone jack?


----------



## ProFragger

dami1337 said:


> yes it is instantly recognize-able. Maybe not for wife and kids so I am usually only when I am back at home switching it back to 2.1. Can be quickly checked also by going into ATV display settings and you suddenly see 1080p Dolby Vision instead of 4k.
> 
> This issue is after some time the main bummer for me and starting to regret not waiting for international version (unless it is also an issue with that). Hoping for a firmware fix but nothing yet.


Thank you. I hope they fix it soon. Wonder if we're still forwarding feedback to Fengmi and if they will even fix the Chinese version now... I, too, bought the Chinese version and opted for a Vertex2 + better storage, RAM and is the processor different too? 

Thanks again!


----------



## clipghost

ProFragger said:


> Thank you. I hope they fix it soon. Wonder if we're still forwarding feedback to Fengmi and if they will even fix the Chinese version now... I, too, bought the Chinese version and opted for a Vertex2 + better storage, RAM and is the processor different too?
> 
> Thanks again!


Where can we see the part differences for Chinese vs Global/International version? I don't see it on their website.


----------



## Scott Rosenberg

Ricoflashback said:


> Thanks. From the picture, I assume you’re talking about the 3.5mm headphone jack?


You should confirm with ThenAudio that this will work for your specific use case. My understanding of their Zone2 device is that there are no decoding / processing capabilities. Therefore, if the input is digital on HDMI, there will be no signal output on the 3.5mm headphone jack. I realize you're talking about a different device in their lineup, but I wouldn't be surprised if they operated similarly. Just suggesting you confirm with the company functionality given your unique system and requirements.


----------



## HCMKII

donw said:


> Did you use Projectivy tools to calibrate? Does the calibration work during Dolby Vision playback?


Hi, I don't use Projectivy. I made the correction without any accessories between AppleTV and HDMI1 Fengmi T1. I only used the Fengmi menu. Help of the probe In order to get 3 superimposed curves RGB. Mode HDMI 2.1. Cable hdmi 8k basic amazon, Apple tv set like this.










I have a high-end LUMENE screen, ultra bright, which allows an excellent rendering (washed) in broad daylight. See Mulan daylight and in the dark.

Daylight 










In the dark










DolbyVision mode, 1080p, 4K, 4Khdr, very beautiful colors.

Ex: Dr Strange Dolby vision


----------



## humax

Ricoflashback said:


> Thanks. From the picture, I assume you’re talking about the 3.5mm headphone jack?



Yes, I suppose it acts both as headphones/line out, since I don't see a separate line out in the picture. In the product description it says:

Volume control applies to the audio system connected to the HDMI output, line-level RCA outputs, and the headphones output.
which makes it even more confusing.

I have not used one of these things before, so I am not 100% sure how well they work and as mentioned by Scott Rosenberg it has to be confirmed this will likely work with an RCA Y cable to a SW, because it is not cheap, but it is the only HDMI 2.1 extractor I could find right now. If someone knows of a cheaper one, please do share.

However, I cannot believe that Fengmi went to all this trouble incorporating a decent soundbar into T1 and not bothered to add a SW out for someone who would want to use a separate quality sub.

On another note, has anyone bought the Fengmi Bluetooth surround add-on 2.1 speakers and are they any good?


----------



## gwynned

Diego Arno said:


> I'm based in France as well (78) and just ordered the international version with them.
> Should be sent early June from what they told me
> Heard good things about their customer service, but it's true it seems they don't comply much with the EU rules (warranty and right to send the product back within 14days)
> Didn't offer me to pay with PayPal unfortunately


Est-ce qu'on connait les différences exactes entre la version chinoise et la version globale ? 
Il y a une grosse différence de prix ?
-------------------------
Do we know the exact differences between the Chinese version and the global version?
what about the price difference?


----------



## eezrider

humax said:


> Yes, I suppose it acts both as headphones/line out, since I don't see a separate line out in the picture. In the product description it says:
> 
> Volume control applies to the audio system connected to the HDMI output, line-level RCA outputs, and the headphones output.
> which makes it even more confusing.
> 
> I have not used one of these things before, so I am not 100% sure how well they work and as mentioned by Scott Rosenberg it has to be confirmed this will likely work with an RCA Y cable to a SW, because it is not cheap, but it is the only HDMI 2.1 extractor I could find right now. If someone knows of a cheaper one, please do share.
> 
> However, I cannot believe that Fengmi went to all this trouble incorporating a decent soundbar into T1 and not bothered to add a SW out for someone who would want to use a separate quality sub.
> 
> On another note, has anyone bought the Fengmi Bluetooth surround add-on 2.1 speakers and are they any good?


There seem to be inexpensive audio extractors that might achieve the same thing. Have you looked on Amazon? There is at least one that claims 4K and has line out for under $25.


----------



## donw

HCMKII said:


> Hi, I don't use Projectivy. I made the correction without any accessories between AppleTV and HDMI1 Fengmi T1. I only used the Fengmi menu. Help of the probe In order to get 3 superimposed curves RGB. Mode HDMI 2.1. Cable hdmi 8k basic amazon, Apple tv set like this.
> 
> View attachment 3279079
> 
> 
> I have a high-end LUMENE screen, ultra bright, which allows an excellent rendering (washed) in broad daylight. See Mulan daylight and in the dark.
> 
> Daylight
> View attachment 3279077
> 
> 
> 
> In the dark
> 
> View attachment 3279080
> 
> 
> DolbyVision mode, 1080p, 4K, 4Khdr, very beautiful colors.
> 
> Ex: Dr Strange Dolby vision
> 
> View attachment 3279076


So you have no control of the colors during Dolby Vision sources. You should try the Projectivy controls. I think I can see the slight red push on faces in that doctor scene.


----------



## HCMKII

gwynned said:


> Est-ce qu'on connait les différences exactes entre la version chinoise et la version globale ?
> Il y a une grosse différence de prix ?
> -------------------------
> Do we know the exact differences between the Chinese version and the global version?
> what about the price difference


----------



## HCMKII

donw said:


> So you have no control of the colors during Dolby Vision sources. You should try the Projectivy controls. I think I can see the slight red push on faces in that doctor scene.


I will try with projectivi. The problem is that projectivy launch does not have a transparent background


----------



## donw

HCMKII said:


> I will try with projectivi. The problem is that projectivy launch does not have a transparent background


A great experiment with Projectivy would be to set one color way over the top and then check various modes to see if it "takes". I'm particularly interested in Dolby Vision. I'd like to know if you can control color using Projectivy in DV.


----------



## humax

eezrider said:


> There seem to be inexpensive audio extractors that might achieve the same thing. Have you looked on Amazon? There is at least one that claims 4K and has line out for under $25.



Yes, I have already seen these, but they are 1.4, 2.0, 2.0a at most basic models and usually max out at 4K 30hz. This is a full-fledged 48Gbps eARC HDMI 2.1 8K 60hz, 4K 120hz. In short, future-proof and most likely to work trouble-free. It should also provide a clean all audio-video format passthrough to the T1. Price is the real problem with this one, especially since I am not 100% sure it will work with a SW.


----------



## mcusman2012

humax said:


> I can only speak of what I have used. In short, no. Whatever kind of screen you choose there will be small compromises with each different projector. I have already mentioned the 100" Blitzwolf ALR screen from Banggood, which my friend and I have tested with a Wemax A300 and a long throw Acer UHD model. It worked fine in both cases, but we did not test how it performs with 3D. Its daylight performance also was not equal to a Pet Crystal, but that's to be expected for the price.


Thank you. I was also thinking same. So the best fixed frame screen for my C2 would be PET CRYSTAL? any better material for my light controlled bed room( i use projector only at night usually).


----------



## humax

mcusman2012 said:


> Thank you. I was also thinking same. So the best fixed frame screen for my C2 would be PET CRYSTAL? any better material for my light controlled bed room( i use projector only at night usually).



Yes, if you want it solely for UST projection. You will not be able to use a Pet Crystal with your long throw projector though. It will not work.

Edit: You may find these videos interesting.

TELA ALR UST 3D- 4K- 8K - NO BRASIL- FURY - YouTube

1º Projetor Xiaomi laser 4k nativo do BRASIL X 1ª tela Alr pet crystal do BRASIL - YouTube


----------



## nigel749

Hey guys, on the specs for T1 there are 3 USB ports listed, 2 on the back and one on the side. However, on my T1 I am not seeing a USB port on the side! Is it hidden away somewhere? Any one got a photo showings it's location on theirs?


----------



## nigel749

Just installed *Projectivy Launcher 4.01 *and it looks like it has fixed my issue with HDMI source not being detected at startup. Thanks for the hard work @spocky12, interface looks great.


----------



## abzorh

nigel749 said:


> Hey guys, on the specs for T1 there are 3 USB ports listed, 2 on the back and one on the side. However, on my T1 I am not seeing a USB port on the side! Is it hidden away somewhere? Any one got a photo showings it's location on theirs?


It has 2 USB ports


----------



## HCMKII

donw said:


> A great experiment with Projectivy would be to set one color way over the top and then check various modes to see if it "takes". I'm particularly interested in Dolby Vision. I'd like to know if you can control color using Projectivy in DV.


Hi,
Thanks for your reply. I tried to control color DV using Projectivy. 

I ajusted the colors in Mediatek additional settings/ Factory menu/ White Balance/Source HDMI1/ Picture Mode/Dolby Vision Vivid & Color Temp User & Adjust UI.

I selected HDMI1 always with Projectivy Launch 4.01 app but I couldn't see the Colors correction.

I always a slighty red on the face in DV mode.


----------



## Maqnvm7

Only the „User“ profile in the Mediatek settings works.


----------



## HCMKII

Maqnvm7 said:


> Only the „User“ profile in the Mediatek settings works.


Yes,I do but do you offer/test other setting?


----------



## AVScope-Noob

nigel749 said:


> Just installed *Projectivy Launcher 4.01 *and it looks like it has fixed my issue with HDMI source not being detected at startup. Thanks for the hard work @spocky12, interface looks great.


How did you update protectivy launcher? I am stuck with the older version. Did you use use usb flash drive? I’m kind of stuck with apple products not sure what my options are, can’t seem to do it with FengOS. Thx


----------



## LeeL2

Help please! Just received T1, but the top left edge is not straight (the Fengmi OS logo is distorted as well), and the 8-point keystone correction did not help. Please see the photo. Any idea on how to fix it? Or it is faulty? Thanks


----------



## LeeL2

AVScope-Noob said:


> How did you update protectivy launcher? I am stuck with the older version. Did you use use usb flash drive? I’m kind of stuck with apple products not sure what my options are, can’t seem to do it with FengOS. Thx


Yes, download the apk file to a usb driver and then plug into T1 for installation. I just did it


----------



## jakechoy

LeeL2 said:


> Help please! Just received T1, but the top left edge is not straight (the Fengmi OS logo is distorted as well), and the 8-point keystone correction did not help. Please see the photo. Any idea on how to fix it? Or it is faulty? Thanks
> View attachment 3279565


1. Are u using a wall?

2. Have u shrunk the screen size and it is still not straight?


----------



## LeeL2

jakechoy said:


> 1. Are u using a wall?
> 
> 2. Have u shrunk the screen size and it is still not straight?


1) Yes on wall
2) Shrink size, do you mean move T1 closer to the wall to make the size smaller? I read from the manual that there is a control in the system for size control, but I couldn't find it in the system.


----------



## jakechoy

LeeL2 said:


> 1) Yes on wall
> 2) Shrink size, do you mean move T1 closer to the wall to make the size smaller? I read from the manual that there is a control in the system for size control, but I couldn't find it in the system.


I get some jagged edges due to my imperfect wall. So that might be a cause.

Yes. Move the projector closet to the wall to shrink the size and see if the issues is still there.


----------



## humax

LeeL2 said:


> 1) Yes on wall
> 2) Shrink size, do you mean move T1 closer to the wall to make the size smaller? I read from the manual that there is a control in the system for size control, but I couldn't find it in the system.



I get the impression your wall is more or less out of plumb. Try using T1 on another wall. However, sooner or later, you are going to need a proper screen or you are doing your projector a disservice.


----------



## l3ggomycraigo

Could someone who owns this projector tell me what the clearance shown in the figure below (green) is? And how much overhang there would be if you pushed the feet to the edge (orange)? I am trying to design something to go over the UST to place my center channel on, I am wondering how much of the projector I can cover without obstructing the picture being projected.


----------



## LeeL2

jakechoy said:


> I get some jagged edges due to my imperfect wall. So that might be a cause.
> 
> Yes. Move the projector closet to the wall to shrink the size and see if the issues is still there.


I just quickly tried another wall, and it is probably the wall.



humax said:


> I get the impression your wall is more or less out of plumb. Try using T1 on another wall. However, sooner or later, you are going to need a proper screen or you are doing your projector a disservice.


My first projector, and probably my first screen soon... So much new to learn about the screen and another decision to make...


----------



## rooterha

LeeL2 said:


> I just quickly tried another wall, and it is probably the wall.


Good news!


----------



## slickrock

Roku folks: I have Roku 4k+ with rechargeable remote that detected the T1 when I set it up for the first time. I'm able to control volume with the remote but not power. However, I recently set up a Roku Ultra with battery remote and is unable to detect the T1 and hence the remote is unable to control the T1 volume. The setup is requiring I supply the brand of device and of course Fengmi (or any of its ilk) is not listed. Does anyone know what remote codes are needed or tactics on how to get the remote to send signals to the T1?


----------



## Maqnvm7

HCMKII said:


> Yes,I do but do you offer/test other setting?


Yes, I will post how to do it as soon as I have time.


----------



## donw

Maqnvm7 said:


> Only the „User“ profile in the Mediatek settings works.


Yes, please explain. And does this control let you set colors in Dolby Vision mode?


----------



## ACE844

Maqnvm7 said:


> Only the „User“ profile in the Mediatek settings works.


Also Several others, I have tweaked them successfully.


----------



## Maqnvm7

Alright, this is a good example of a reddish looking face in Dolby Vision:









This is with custom settings (still Dolby Vision):









Proof:









Keep in mind that the colors or white balance here aren‘t perfect by any means. I did these custom settings in a couple of minutes just to demonstrate them.

And this is how I did it:
First off, make sure your source is actually sending Dolby Vision and your preferred Brightness Mode is selected (in my case Office Mode).
Now open Projectivy and activate the checkbox „Prefer internal TV View“ under Projectivy Launcher Settings -> Input.
Then go back to your source and press the Settings button on your T1 remote (icon with 3 bars). This now opens the Mediatek settings instead of the original T1 settings.
Go to Picture Mode and switch it to User.
Now you’re able to change all the settings while Dolby Vision is still engaged.

Furthermore you can now also adjust the White Balance in Office Mode (under Factory Menu).
You just need to select the User Picture Mode and change the values. For some reason it sends you back to the Projectivy Launcher and changes your Picture Mode when you‘re done adjusting the white balance. So just go back to your source and switch Picture Mode back to User and you should see the difference in White Balance.
Here‘s a pic in Office Mode for demonstration:








It looks bad on purpose. Just wanted to show an extreme difference.

There’s also a setting somewhere in the Mediatek settings called MFC, which supposedly is Motion Interpolation, but it gives me less artifacts than the one in the T1 menu for whatever reason. Could be placebo though.
It‘s even available with Dolby Vision active.

This whole thing might seem a bit complicated, but hey it’s free and as soon as you‘ve found the right settings, it‘s pretty much set it and forget it.
But tweakers gonna tweak…

Special thanks to spocky12 for this awesome launcher!

Edit: No idea why the screen looks curved on my pictures, definitely doesn‘t look like that in real life.


----------



## ProFragger

Maqnvm7 said:


> Alright, this is a good example of a reddish looking face in Dolby Vision:
> View attachment 3279780
> 
> 
> This is with custom settings (still Dolby Vision):
> View attachment 3279781
> 
> 
> Proof:
> View attachment 3279782
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that the colors or white balance here aren‘t perfect by any means. I did these custom settings in a couple of minutes just to demonstrate them.
> 
> And this is how I did it:
> First off, make sure your source is actually sending Dolby Vision and your preferred Brightness Mode is selected (in my case Office Mode).
> Now open Projectivy and activate the checkbox „Prefer internal TV View“ under Projectivy Launcher Settings -> Input.
> Then go back to your source and press the Settings button on your T1 remote (icon with 3 bars). This now opens the Mediatek settings instead of the original T1 settings.
> Go to Picture Mode and switch it to User.
> Now you’re able to change all the settings while Dolby Vision is still engaged.
> 
> Furthermore you can now also adjust the White Balance in Office Mode (under Factory Menu).
> You just need to select the User Picture Mode and change the values. For some reason it sends you back to the Projectivy Launcher and changes your Picture Mode when you‘re done adjusting the white balance. So just go back to your source and switch Picture Mode back to User and you should see the difference in White Balance.
> Here‘s a pic in Office Mode for demonstration:
> View attachment 3279783
> 
> It looks bad on purpose. Just wanted to show an extreme difference.
> 
> There’s also a setting somewhere in the Mediatek settings called MFC, which supposedly is Motion Interpolation, but it gives me less artifacts than the one in the T1 menu for whatever reason. Could be placebo though.
> It‘s even available with Dolby Vision active.
> 
> This whole thing might seem a bit complicated, but hey it’s free and as soon as you‘ve found the right settings, it‘s pretty much set it and forget it.
> But tweakers gonna tweak…
> 
> Special thanks to spocky12 for this awesome launcher!
> 
> Edit: No idea why the screen looks curved on my pictures, definitely doesn‘t look like that in real life.


Thank you for your findings. Do you intend to calibrate with more time and technique and perhaps share your work? 

Thank you again for a promising finding!


----------



## donw

Maqnvm7 said:


> Alright, this is a good example of a reddish looking face in Dolby Vision:
> View attachment 3279780
> 
> 
> This is with custom settings (still Dolby Vision):
> View attachment 3279781
> 
> 
> Proof:
> View attachment 3279782
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that the colors or white balance here aren‘t perfect by any means. I did these custom settings in a couple of minutes just to demonstrate them.
> 
> And this is how I did it:
> First off, make sure your source is actually sending Dolby Vision and your preferred Brightness Mode is selected (in my case Office Mode).
> Now open Projectivy and activate the checkbox „Prefer internal TV View“ under Projectivy Launcher Settings -> Input.
> Then go back to your source and press the Settings button on your T1 remote (icon with 3 bars). This now opens the Mediatek settings instead of the original T1 settings.
> Go to Picture Mode and switch it to User.
> Now you’re able to change all the settings while Dolby Vision is still engaged.
> 
> Furthermore you can now also adjust the White Balance in Office Mode (under Factory Menu).
> You just need to select the User Picture Mode and change the values. For some reason it sends you back to the Projectivy Launcher and changes your Picture Mode when you‘re done adjusting the white balance. So just go back to your source and switch Picture Mode back to User and you should see the difference in White Balance.
> Here‘s a pic in Office Mode for demonstration:
> View attachment 3279783
> 
> It looks bad on purpose. Just wanted to show an extreme difference.
> 
> There’s also a setting somewhere in the Mediatek settings called MFC, which supposedly is Motion Interpolation, but it gives me less artifacts than the one in the T1 menu for whatever reason. Could be placebo though.
> It‘s even available with Dolby Vision active.
> 
> This whole thing might seem a bit complicated, but hey it’s free and as soon as you‘ve found the right settings, it‘s pretty much set it and forget it.
> But tweakers gonna tweak…
> 
> Special thanks to spocky12 for this awesome launcher!
> 
> Edit: No idea why the screen looks curved on my pictures, definitely doesn‘t look like that in real life.


Thank you! You are the man!


----------



## donw

ProFragger said:


> Thank you for your findings. Do you intend to calibrate with more time and technique and perhaps share your work?
> 
> Thank you again for a promising finding!


We need to talk Dave Harper into installing Projectivi. Or talk m0j0 into disconnecting his HDfury for a while and installing Projectivi.


----------



## Maqnvm7

ProFragger said:


> Thank you for your findings. Do you intend to calibrate with more time and technique and perhaps share your work?
> 
> Thank you again for a promising finding!


I actually have no idea how to calibrate stuff correctly. I always make it look good to my eyes and that‘s it. Just wanted to show that adjusting settings is possible even in Dolby Vision.


donw said:


> We need to talk Dave Harper into installing Projectivi. Or talk m0j0 into disconnecting his HDfury for a while and installing Projectivi.


I just received an HDFury VRROOM today. Gonna compare it to Projectivy + Native DV later today or tomorrow!


----------



## Vcnzo

Hi, any news about the global version ? I'm curious about the input lag of the global version, given the presence of the Android TV layer.


----------



## JereyWolf

l3ggomycraigo said:


> Could someone who owns this projector tell me what the clearance shown in the figure below (green) is? And how much overhang there would be if you pushed the feet to the edge (orange)? I am trying to design something to go over the UST to place my center channel on, I am wondering how much of the projector I can cover without obstructing the picture being projected.
> View attachment 3279643


What size screen are you planning to use? I've been experimenting this week with center channel speakers placed behind the projector. I was able to fit an SVS prime with these dimensions: 18-11/16"W x 7-11/16"H x 9-1/8"D, without interfering with the image on a 120" screen. 
I can measure my projector later for the clearance in the green area of your image, but from memory I would say it's less than 4".


----------



## JereyWolf

With Projectivy internal view enabled, is there a way to toggle dynamic contrast in the mediatek settings? @spocky12


----------



## Joered101

Vcnzo said:


> Hi, any news about the global version ? I'm curious about the input lag of the global version, given the presence of the Android TV layer.


Oh damn, good point. Could it possible affect input lag then? I was about to buy the global and now this has thrown me.


----------



## ProjectionHead

clipghost said:


> Where can we see the part differences for Chinese vs Global/International version? I don't see it on their website.


Global isn’t publicaly released yet. You’ll have to wait a couple more weeks before you see anything “official”


----------



## HCMKII

Maqnvm7 said:


> I actually have no idea how to calibrate stuff correctly. I always make it look good to my eyes and that‘s it. Just wanted to show that adjusting settings is possible even in Dolby Vision.
> 
> I just received an HDFury VRROOM today. Gonna compare it to Projectivy + Native DV later today or tomorrow!


Thanks for your sharing.


----------



## zaselim

Watched The Writer's Odyssey(Chinese movie) last night, it was an amazing experience. The colors, environment, cgi and locations were amazing and of course T1 was the one that made it amazing.


----------



## HCMKII

Maqnvm7 said:


> Alright, this is a good example of a reddish looking face in Dolby Vision:
> View attachment 3279780
> 
> 
> This is with custom settings (still Dolby Vision):
> View attachment 3279781
> 
> 
> Proof:
> View attachment 3279782
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that the colors or white balance here aren‘t perfect by any means. I did these custom settings in a couple of minutes just to demonstrate them.
> 
> And this is how I did it:
> First off, make sure your source is actually sending Dolby Vision and your preferred Brightness Mode is selected (in my case Office Mode).
> Now open Projectivy and activate the checkbox „Prefer internal TV View“ under Projectivy Launcher Settings -> Input.
> Then go back to your source and press the Settings button on your T1 remote (icon with 3 bars). This now opens the Mediatek settings instead of the original T1 settings.
> Go to Picture Mode and switch it to User.
> Now you’re able to change all the settings while Dolby Vision is still engaged.
> 
> Furthermore you can now also adjust the White Balance in Office Mode (under Factory Menu).
> You just need to select the User Picture Mode and change the values. For some reason it sends you back to the Projectivy Launcher and changes your Picture Mode when you‘re done adjusting the white balance. So just go back to your source and switch Picture Mode back to User and you should see the difference in White Balance.
> Here‘s a pic in Office Mode for demonstration:
> View attachment 3279783
> 
> It looks bad on purpose. Just wanted to show an extreme difference.
> 
> There’s also a setting somewhere in the Mediatek settings called MFC, which supposedly is Motion Interpolation, but it gives me less artifacts than the one in the T1 menu for whatever reason. Could be placebo though.
> It‘s even available with Dolby Vision active.
> 
> This whole thing might seem a bit complicated, but hey it’s free and as soon as you‘ve found the right settings, it‘s pretty much set it and forget it.
> But tweakers gonna tweak…
> 
> Special thanks to spocky12 for this awesome launcher!
> 
> Edit: No idea why the screen looks curved on my pictures, definitely doesn‘t look like that in real life.


Woo! It's works. Thanks a lot


----------



## donw

The T1 doesn't have an indicator icon to let you know it is receiving an HDR signal, does it?


----------



## JereyWolf

JereyWolf said:


> What size screen are you planning to use? I've been experimenting this week with center channel speakers placed behind the projector. I was able to fit an SVS prime with these dimensions: 18-11/16"W x 7-11/16"H x 9-1/8"D, without interfering with the image on a 120" screen.
> I can measure my projector later for the clearance in the green area of your image, but from memory I would say it's less than 4".


@l3ggomycraigo
Roughly 2.25"


----------



## JereyWolf

If anyone can check and post the default settings for the Mediatek, non linear menu I would really appreciate it. I messed mine up...but in the process found out that you can have massive control over HDR and Dolby Vision brightness. I don’t know a way to reset to default. 

These images show where I ended...but I'd like to be able to get back to default.


----------



## lattiboy

It would seem if you could effectively adjust maximum NIT value for HDR and DV with ProjectIvy you could make HD Fury devices unnecessary. I remember seeing that as an option, but can’t find it.


----------



## rjyap

JereyWolf said:


> If anyone can check and post the default settings for the Mediatek, non linear menu I would really appreciate it. I messed mine up...but in the process found out that you can have massive control over HDR and Dolby Vision brightness. I don’t know a way to reset to default.
> 
> These images show where I ended...but I'd like to be able to get back to default.
> 
> View attachment 3280226
> View attachment 3280227
> View attachment 3280228
> View attachment 3280229
> View attachment 3280230
> View attachment 3280231
> View attachment 3280232


So looks like this is the menu to adjust HDR tone mapping. It's best you put a 1000 nits color test pattern to adjust the numbers. Just that without the test pattern in the background, it's tough to adjust in the blind and then measure. I'll capture the default setting later.


----------



## ProFragger

Hello All, 

Just finally got to set up my screen, console and the T1. I've never owned a projector. So much to learn, but man, am I already loving this thing without the Vertex2 or Projectivy installed! Can you guys help me with a couple of questions, even though they may be too stupid:

1. Is that outer "light shadow" normal on UST/ALRs? If not, how can I fix this? See attached. 

2. I'm using it with Google Chromecast with Google TV that supports Dolby Vision and Atmos content, but having challenges with audio. Here's what's happening:

A. Netflix: If I turn on the Atmos track, I get no audio. It I turn on regular surround, I get sound. 

B. HBO Max, I get no audio, no matter what I select, until I turn off the Surround Sound toggle in the Chromecast, then I get sound, though pretty sure I'm not getting Atmos. 

I'm using the internal speakers for now, shall I connect my Chromecast in HDMI 2 with eARC? If not, any ideas? 

3. I'm able to use the T1 remote with my Chromecast. However, the Home button seems to take me to a Chinese Netflix like app. Do you guys have any workarounds for this? 

4. How are you guys loading apps to these things easily? Is a removable drive at first to load things like a Cloud File Manager, Browser, Aptoid, and Projectivy, OR is there a better way? 

Love it and looking forward to tuning more. I'm using a 100" VAVA ALR, but likely need to bump to a 120". Appreciate all your help in advance!


----------



## ProFragger

ProFragger said:


> Hello All,
> 
> Just finally got to set up my screen, console and the T1. I've never owned a projector. So much to learn, but man, am I already loving this thing without the Vertex2 or Projectivy installed! Can you guys help me with a couple of questions, even though they may be too stupid:
> 
> 1. Is that outer "light shadow" normal on UST/ALRs? If not, how can I fix this? See attached.
> 
> 2. I'm using it with Google Chromecast with Google TV that supports Dolby Vision and Atmos content, but having challenges with audio. Here's what's happening:
> 
> A. Netflix: If I turn on the Atmos track, I get no audio. It I turn on regular surround, I get sound.
> 
> B. HBO Max, I get no audio, no matter what I select, until I turn off the Surround Sound toggle in the Chromecast, then I get sound, though pretty sure I'm not getting Atmos.
> 
> I'm using the internal speakers for now, shall I connect my Chromecast in HDMI 2 with eARC? If not, any ideas?
> 
> 3. I'm able to use the T1 remote with my Chromecast. However, the Home button seems to take me to a Chinese Netflix like app. Do you guys have any workarounds for this?
> 
> 4. How are you guys loading apps to these things easily? Is a removable drive at first to load things like a Cloud File Manager, Browser, Aptoid, and Projectivy, OR is there a better way?
> 
> Love it and looking forward to tuning more. I'm using a 100" VAVA ALR, but likely need to bump to a 120". Appreciate all your help in advance!


Figured out # 3 and 4...appreciate any help on 1 and 2 please? Thanks.


----------



## JereyWolf

ProFragger said:


> Hello All,
> 
> Just finally got to set up my screen, console and the T1. I've never owned a projector. So much to learn, but man, am I already loving this thing without the Vertex2 or Projectivy installed! Can you guys help me with a couple of questions, even though they may be too stupid:
> 
> 1. Is that outer "light shadow" normal on UST/ALRs? If not, how can I fix this? See attached.
> 
> 2. I'm using it with Google Chromecast with Google TV that supports Dolby Vision and Atmos content, but having challenges with audio. Here's what's happening:
> 
> A. Netflix: If I turn on the Atmos track, I get no audio. It I turn on regular surround, I get sound.
> 
> B. HBO Max, I get no audio, no matter what I select, until I turn off the Surround Sound toggle in the Chromecast, then I get sound, though pretty sure I'm not getting Atmos.
> 
> I'm using the internal speakers for now, shall I connect my Chromecast in HDMI 2 with eARC? If not, any ideas?
> 
> 3. I'm able to use the T1 remote with my Chromecast. However, the Home button seems to take me to a Chinese Netflix like app. Do you guys have any workarounds for this?
> 
> 4. How are you guys loading apps to these things easily? Is a removable drive at first to load things like a Cloud File Manager, Browser, Aptoid, and Projectivy, OR is there a better way?
> 
> Love it and looking forward to tuning more. I'm using a 100" VAVA ALR, but likely need to bump to a 120". Appreciate all your help in advance!


I believe the "light shadow " is pretty normal but that it can be minimized by having a good starting alignment and not relying too much on keystone to reduce the image to fit the screen. 
I've seen the same effect on the different brand USTs and the T1 has the least light shadow of the three.


----------



## JereyWolf

lattiboy said:


> It would seem if you could effectively adjust maximum NIT value for HDR and DV with ProjectIvy you could make HD Fury devices unnecessary. I remember seeing that as an option, but can’t find it.


Try adjusting those non linear settings to see how it responds. It's interesting because it adjusting any value at each intensity level seems to immediately apply that intensity level across the entire picture.... kind of difficult to explain. 
I believe you can control gamma/EOTF through these settings.


----------



## Demetri Zuev

Just thought about something - if one uses an HTPC with MadVR and uses it in combination with Projectivi profiles, does this eliminate the need to constantly tweak T1's settings, or it is still a necessity?


----------



## j-0

I have a 100 inch vividstorm screen (S PRO P). 

Due to limitations in my set up, both my Vividstorm and the projector need to placed on the same (ground) level.

Does anyone here know if this set up would work for the Fengmi T1?

Based on the manual, it seems I can put the projector at the same level as the screen base, 198 mm in front of the screen, and it would project perfectly onto the 100 inch screen.

Vividstorm:










T1 Manual:










So it seems ok, but would love to hear from someone who owns one.

The Samsung LSP9T said the same in the manual, but in practice, it overshoots, like it wants a 110-120 inch screen, and I have to software correct the edges, even when placed right in front of my screen, which results in a less ideal image projecting.


----------



## JereyWolf

Demetri Zuev said:


> Just thought about something - if one uses an HTPC with MadVR and uses it in combination with Projectivi profiles, does this eliminate the need to constantly tweak T1's settings, or it is still a necessity?


I use MadVR too and my opinion is that you can just run stock Feng OS and calibrate for SDR or find your preferred settings and leave it there permanently...assuming that you use MadVR to output SDR.


----------



## JereyWolf

j-0 said:


> I have a 100 inch vividstorm screen (S PRO P).
> 
> Due to limitations in my set up, both my Vividstorm and the projector need to placed on the same (ground) level.
> 
> Does anyone here know if this set up would work for the Fengmi T1?
> 
> Based on the manual, it seems I can put the projector at the same level as the screen base, 198 mm in front of the screen, and it would project perfectly onto the 100 inch screen.
> 
> Vividstorm:
> 
> View attachment 3280313
> 
> 
> T1 Manual:
> 
> View attachment 3280314
> 
> 
> So it seems ok, but would love to hear from someone who owns one.
> 
> The Samsung LSP9T said the same in the manual, but in practice, it overshoots, like it wants a 110-120 inch screen, and I have to software correct the edges, even when placed right in front of my screen, which results in a less ideal image projecting.


The numbers in the Fengmi chart are spot on for my 120" screen.

It looks like you would require a 10mm block to sit under the projector in order to match the 350mm "X" dimension of the screen but that discrepancy is probably small enough to ignore.


----------



## ted_b

j-0 said:


> I have a 100 inch vividstorm screen (S PRO P).
> 
> Due to limitations in my set up, both my Vividstorm and the projector need to placed on the same (ground) level.
> 
> Does anyone here know if this set up would work for the Fengmi T1?
> 
> Based on the manual, it seems I can put the projector at the same level as the screen base, 198 mm in front of the screen, and it would project perfectly onto the 100 inch screen.
> 
> Vividstorm:
> 
> View attachment 3280313
> 
> 
> T1 Manual:
> 
> View attachment 3280314
> 
> 
> So it seems ok, but would love to hear from someone who owns one.
> 
> The Samsung LSP9T said the same in the manual, but in practice, it overshoots, like it wants a 110-120 inch screen, and I have to software correct the edges, even when placed right in front of my screen, which results in a less ideal image projecting.


Did Vividstorm set your black border for anything other than the 350mm (13.8 inch) fully open setting? If not, just use the long plastic tool and instructions for reducing the opening of the screen by 10mm (i.e 340mm to match the T1 spec, as per @JereyWolf comments above).


----------



## Demetri Zuev

j-0 said:


> I have a 100 inch vividstorm screen (S PRO P).
> 
> Due to limitations in my set up, both my Vividstorm and the projector need to placed on the same (ground) level.
> 
> Does anyone here know if this set up would work for the Fengmi T1?
> 
> Based on the manual, it seems I can put the projector at the same level as the screen base, 198 mm in front of the screen, and it would project perfectly onto the 100 inch screen.
> 
> Vividstorm:
> 
> View attachment 3280313
> 
> 
> T1 Manual:
> 
> View attachment 3280314
> 
> 
> So it seems ok, but would love to hear from someone who owns one.
> 
> The Samsung LSP9T said the same in the manual, but in practice, it overshoots, like it wants a 110-120 inch screen, and I have to software correct the edges, even when placed right in front of my screen, which results in a less ideal image projecting.


I learned the semi-hard way that all those charts are pretty much useless for USTs, they are just an estimate. Once the thing arrives it is never 100% as you planned based on charts, but the good news is that you can always put the screen itself a little bit higher if needed, especially with this Vividstorm screen, you can just place it on something, mine is resting on a bunch of cinema magazines on both sides at the moment 🤪 You can also set the highest point of the screen by adjusting the stopping range manually via a special rod included in the kit, so it is flexible.

Also, bear in mind that the diagonal arrow that says "SIZE" in the diagram you posted is actually not the workable display area size, but the diagonal of the whole screen. I got a 92" Vividstorm screen and it turned out that 92" is from corner to corner after I measured it. You can't use those corners because of image warping thanks to the screen design. So my screen listed as 92" at the store is actually capable of displaying an image close to 90.5-91". I suppose 100" will be between 98-99"


----------



## Demetri Zuev

JereyWolf said:


> I use MadVR too and my opinion is that you can just run stock Feng OS and calibrate for SDR or find your preferred settings and leave it there permanently...assuming that you use MadVR to output SDR.


So you just calibrate the projector to a desired visual output in SDR and let MadVR switch color profiles on its' side afterwards?


----------



## JereyWolf

Demetri Zuev said:


> So you just calibrate the projector to a desired visual output in SDR and let MadVR switch color profiles on its' side afterwards?


Yeah, that would work. I just leave MadVR color space option set to a static value....under the "this display has been calibrated to.....". 
example screen:


----------



## tnaik4

JereyWolf said:


> Yeah, that would work. I just leave MadVR color space option set to a static value....under the "this display has been calibrated to.....".
> example screen:
> View attachment 3280376


u should chose bt2020 if the T1 is always outputing bt2020 colors.
MadVR will automatically map it to rec709 when u watching sdr.


----------



## l3ggomycraigo

JereyWolf said:


> What size screen are you planning to use? I've been experimenting this week with center channel speakers placed behind the projector. I was able to fit an SVS prime with these dimensions: 18-11/16"W x 7-11/16"H x 9-1/8"D, without interfering with the image on a 120" screen.
> I can measure my projector later for the clearance in the green area of your image, but from memory I would say it's less than 4".


Thanks so much. I am going to go 120" and have an emotiva C2+.


----------



## ProFragger

JereyWolf said:


> I believe the "light shadow " is pretty normal but that it can be minimized by having a good starting alignment and not relying too much on keystone to reduce the image to fit the screen.
> I've seen the same effect on the different brand USTs and the T1 has the least light shadow of the three.


Thank you for your response, I'll try to get a good baseline fitment before the keystone and see if it helps... It not, then one day I'll border with some led ambient lighting around the screen 😅.

You mentioned in another response you have some Fengmi numbers for distance and screen projection sizes? Where can I find these values?

Do you have any thoughts on why I'm not able to get Atmos via my T1 speakers, playing Netflix on Google Chromecast with Google TV?

Thank you again!


----------



## ProFragger

Anyone successfully getting Atmos audio using internal speakers, using a Google based Streamer? Can you share your sound config settings? Thank you.


----------



## JereyWolf

tnaik4 said:


> u should chose bt2020 if the T1 is always outputing bt2020 colors.
> MadVR will automatically map it to rec709 when u watching sdr.


The screenshot attached was just an example I grabbed from the internet. I actually use dciP3 because the colors are more saturated and I think looks a but better than bt2020....probably not more accurate, but I prefer it.


----------



## JereyWolf

ProFragger said:


> Thank you for your response, I'll try to get a good baseline fitment before the keystone and see if it helps... It not, then one day I'll border with some led ambient lighting around the screen 😅.
> 
> You mentioned in another response you have some Fengmi numbers for distance and screen projection sizes? Where can I find these values?
> 
> Do you have any thoughts on why I'm not able to get Atmos via my T1 speakers, playing Netflix on Google Chromecast with Google TV?
> 
> Thank you again!


I was referring to the numbers in the chart from post #5346 for dimensional offsets.

Sorry, I run my sources through an AVR so I have no experience with audio through the projector.


----------



## ProFragger

JereyWolf said:


> I was referring to the numbers in the chart from post #5346 for dimensional offsets.
> 
> Sorry, I run my sources through and AVR so I have no experience with audio through the projector.


Thank you for all your help!


----------



## ProFragger

Adding to the "n00b/new user" questions here guys:

1. Those who have Projectivy installed, and perhaps home button disabling the Chinese video hub/home screen thing do you notice your T1 remote no longer working well after at least one reboot? For me, it dropped the Volume Up/Down to 2 steps per button press and hold. Wasn't like that immediately, just after shutting down over night. Several reboots didn't fix. However, uninstalling Projectivy fixed the remote behavior.

2. What is the correct behavior for the Formovie light up logo in the front? Yesterday, my day 1 of use, I swear it turns on bright and stays bright on after the full boot. When I used today, looks it turns on bright at boot up from off, but then goes super dim and stays that way after the FengOS boot. Is this the correct behavior or am I being paranoid? 😊

3. Lastly, last night I found the setting to turn off auto play video on that Chinese video hub app. Maybe it was no sound on those video clips. Am I imagining this or can someone tell me how to get back to those settings? I cannot find them anymore... 😅

Thank you all!


----------



## HCMKII

Maqnvm7 said:


> Only the „User“ profile in the Mediatek settings works.


Good morning,



Thanks to you for sharing information. Special thanks @spoky12 for the app.



When you use projectivy Launch, does the application appear at launch?



I need to use home button to activate projectivy.



My configuration:

(Don't consider the colors, I just make a reset)


----------



## rjyap

JereyWolf said:


> If anyone can check and post the default settings for the Mediatek, non linear menu I would really appreciate it. I messed mine up...but in the process found out that you can have massive control over HDR and Dolby Vision brightness. I don’t know a way to reset to default.
> 
> These images show where I ended...but I'd like to be able to get back to default.


Here’s the default settings.


----------



## Maqnvm7

HCMKII said:


> Good morning,
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to you for sharing information. Special thanks @spoky12 for the app.
> 
> 
> 
> When you use projectivy Launch, does the application appear at launch?
> 
> 
> 
> I need to use home button to activate projectivy.
> 
> 
> 
> My configuration:
> 
> (Don't consider the colors, I just make a reset)
> 
> View attachment 3280704
> 
> View attachment 3280707
> 
> View attachment 3280702
> 
> View attachment 3280706
> 
> View attachment 3280701
> 
> View attachment 3280703
> 
> View attachment 3280705


Yes, Projectivy appears on launch. I will check my settings later.


----------



## JereyWolf

rjyap said:


> View attachment 3280817
> 
> View attachment 3280821
> 
> View attachment 3280822
> 
> View attachment 3280820
> 
> View attachment 3280819
> 
> View attachment 3280818
> 
> 
> 
> Here’s the default settings.


Thank you so much!


----------



## m0j0

Been working on revamping the home theater over the past week so haven't had much time to spend with the T1 lately. Got on it and messed around a bit last night. Going with more turned up colors and saturation this week. Still keeping it at 1,000 nits on the DV tab.

Tested this setup last night:

Brightness Mode: View Mode
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 40 (run this a bit higher during the day when the kids are watching shows, around 50-52)
Saturation: 47
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 51
Color: Custom
Red: 1250
Green: 1321
Blue: 1173


----------



## Aztar35

mirzank said:


> On the point of contrast I’m wondering isn’t the whole reason t1 seems to be more popular than c2 because of the contrast? I’ve been reading this thread for more than now and it seems the big thing with t1 is how the colours pop and the contrast of the t1. If the c2 beats t1 on contrast isn’t that the better bet then? Ofcourse fengmi 2.0 might change that.
> *I already have 1 t1 but need a second one so wondering if I should stick with t1 or go with c2.*


From what I know about the T1 and from my experience with the Laser C2 so far, the T1 will have wider color for HDR/BT2020 content. It has the advantage of full RGB lasers getting you over 90% of BT2020. 

The Laser C2 has been reported to display HDR below 90% of P3 even. It will be about the same brightness as the T1 when calibrated in View mode. The advantage of the Laser C2, however, is it will have a cleaner image with no laser speckle, slightly better contrast. It is extremely sharp. It should comparatively have less of a red push. And from what I've read in this thread, the C2 is definitely more just plug and play.


----------



## JereyWolf

Man....I spent the last 6 hours experimenting with an HDFury Vrroom trying to make the LLDV look better than SDR and now I think I've made a decision to keep the device, but just use it to disable HDR entirely. At least in my opinion, SDR is much more appealing than HDR on this projector.


----------



## Maqnvm7

JereyWolf said:


> Man....I spent the last 6 hours experimenting with an HDFury Vrroom trying to make the LLDV look better than SDR and now I think I've made a decision to keep the device, but just use it to disable HDR entirely. At least in my opinion, SDR is much more appealing than HDR on this projector.


Do you also have to set HDCP to 1.4 on the VRROOM to get a picture? On Auto I only get a black screen. Happens on my Apple TV 4K, Sony UBP-X800M2 and Panasonic UB-824. Tried different cables, resolutions etc. but that didn‘t help. 

And by „disabling HDR entirely“, do you mean LLDV to SDR instead of HDR? Is that even possible?


----------



## Aztar35

JereyWolf said:


> Man....I spent the last 6 hours experimenting with an HDFury Vrroom trying to make the LLDV look better than SDR and now I think I've made a decision to keep the device, but just use it to disable HDR entirely. At least in my opinion, SDR is much more appealing than HDR on this projector.


Does the conversion shrink the color gamut to 709 on HDR sources?


----------



## tnaik4

anyone here using the T1 in a totally dedicated theatre with a normal 1.0 gain white screen ?i have black velvet on ceiling/side walls/ almost everywhere, and changing screen is not an option since i have other projectors i use too.


----------



## Maqnvm7

HCMKII said:


> Good morning,
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to you for sharing information. Special thanks @spoky12 for the app.
> 
> 
> 
> When you use projectivy Launch, does the application appear at launch?
> 
> 
> 
> I need to use home button to activate projectivy.
> 
> 
> 
> My configuration:
> 
> (Don't consider the colors, I just make a reset)
> 
> View attachment 3280704
> 
> View attachment 3280707
> 
> View attachment 3280702
> 
> View attachment 3280706
> 
> View attachment 3280701
> 
> View attachment 3280703
> 
> View attachment 3280705


Hmm, only difference in my settings is that „Override current launcher“ is disabled. I never use the Home button anyway.


----------



## HCMKII

Maqnvm7 said:


> Hmm, only difference in my settings is that „Override current launcher“ is disabled. I never use the Home button anyway.


Thanks. I 'll test "Override... is disabled"


----------



## Aztar35

tnaik4 said:


> anyone here using the T1 in a totally dedicated theatre with a normal 1.0 gain white screen ?i have black velvet on ceiling/side walls/ almost everywhere, and changing screen is not an option since i have other projectors i use too.


I use the C2 on a .8 gain Stewart. The sharpness is incredible.


----------



## donw

ScreenPro 120" drop down motorized T-prism UST screen arrived. I got it set up and shot a few HDR photos. These are using the T-1 2.0 Fengos with Lattiboy's recommended settings of
Brightness 49
Contrast 52
Saturation 51
Sharpness 22
Tone 51
R: 952
G: 995
B: 923
The daytime photo shows how the screen works with 8' high french doors all along the side of this room (oh, I raised the brightness to 84 or so for daytime).


----------



## JereyWolf

Maqnvm7 said:


> Do you also have to set HDCP to 1.4 on the VRROOM to get a picture? On Auto I only get a black screen. Happens on my Apple TV 4K, Sony UBP-X800M2 and Panasonic UB-824. Tried different cables, resolutions etc. but that didn‘t help.
> 
> And by „disabling HDR entirely“, do you mean LLDV to SDR instead of HDR? Is that even possible?


I have HDCP set to auto and it's working fine for me.
By disabling HDR I mean by selecting the remove all setting under the automix EDID. And on the Nvidia Shield I choose custom display mode 4k60 YUV422 12-bit Rec.2020.



Aztar35 said:


> Does the conversion shrink the color gamut to 709 on HDR sources?


No, I can force the shield into Rec.2020 gamut and that works well. I can also use Rec.709 and the colors are just more saturated.

These attachments show how my signal info looks and also my EDID selections.


----------



## JereyWolf

Here's comparisons of the shield outputting SDR Rec.2020 and SDR Rec.709. I have a preference for 709. The signal info is in the lower left corner.


----------



## Aztar35

JereyWolf said:


> Here's comparisons of the shield outputting SDR Rec.2020 and SDR Rec.709. I have a preference for 709. The signal info is in the lower left corner.
> View attachment 3281053
> View attachment 3281054


You are getting better saturation on 709, but why is that happening when BT2020 should be wider with better color luminance? Also, both photos on my monitor have a heavy red push and skin tones look sunburnt; is that what you're seeing on the actual screen?


----------



## ACE844

@JereyWolf @m0j0 @Maqnvm7 @donw ,and others using the VROOM/Vertex are you all using the sony display EDID, LG or something else? Is there a consensus on which seems to be the 'best' for the T1?


----------



## donw

ACE844 said:


> @JereyWolf @m0j0 @Maqnvm7 @donw ,and others using the VROOM/Vertex are you all using the sony display EDID, LG or something else? Is there a consensus on which seems to be the 'best' for the T1?


I don't have any HDFury devices.


----------



## JereyWolf

Aztar35 said:


> You are getting better saturation on 709, but why is that happening when BT2020 should be wider with better color luminance? Also, both photos on my monitor have a heavy red push and skin tones look sunburnt; is that what you're seeing on the actual screen?


To me, the skin tones are natural looking. 
_shrug_ Maybe someone else can explain the mechanism for higher saturation with a more narrow color space selected....I don't understand it.


----------



## JereyWolf

ACE844 said:


> @JereyWolf @m0j0 @Maqnvm7 @donw ,and others using the VROOM/Vertex are you all using the sony display EDID, LG or something else? Is there a consensus on which seems to be the 'best' for the T1?


I'd like to know the answer too. I was under the impression it's a requirement to use automix if you want to use a custom DV block...but perhaps the automix EDID can be based on one of the custom EDIDs.


----------



## m0j0

ACE844 said:


> @JereyWolf @m0j0 @Maqnvm7 @donw ,and others using the VROOM/Vertex are you all using the sony display EDID, LG or something else? Is there a consensus on which seems to be the 'best' for the T1?


No,I use auto mix. I don’t find any of the other edids to my liking.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Aztar35 said:


> From what I know about the T1 and from my experience with the Laser C2 so far, the T1 will have wider color for HDR/BT2020 content. It has the advantage of full RGB lasers getting you over 90% of BT2020.
> 
> The Laser C2 has been reported to display HDR below 90% of P3 even. It will be about the same brightness as the T1 when calibrated in View mode. The advantage of the Laser C2, however, is it will have a cleaner image with no laser speckle, slightly better contrast. It is extremely sharp. It should comparatively have less of a red push. And from what I've read in this thread, the C2 is definitely more just plug and play.


I assume you have the Xiaomi C2 in the black color? Not the Fengmi C2. Any big differences in SDR between the T1 and Xiaomi C2? For HDR - wider color gamut with the T1 but better out of the box experience with the Xiaomi C2? More set it and forget it? Best non calibrated picture for the Xiaomi C2? Lastly - it seems like the Xiaomi C2 price has held steady for some time now.


----------



## Maqnvm7

m0j0 said:


> No,I use auto mix. I don’t find any of the other edids to my liking.


Automix with CUSTOM selected in Dolby Vision?


----------



## rjyap

Aztar35 said:


> Does the conversion shrink the color gamut to 709 on HDR sources?


I only use HTPC. From my measurement when the desktop is in SDR mode, the color gamut is still wide color gamut. So in MadVR the settings should be SDR Rec 2020.


----------



## m0j0

For those interested, here's my Vrroom settings I've been using lately

Edit: Uploaded the DV and HDR tab settings again. For some reason, I selected the wrong ones previously. These are the current settings.


----------



## Aztar35

Ricoflashback said:


> I assume you have the Xiaomi C2 in the black color? Not the Fengmi C2. Any big differences in SDR between the T1 and Xiaomi C2? For HDR - wider color gamut with the T1 but better out of the box experience with the Xiaomi C2? More set it and forget it? Best non calibrated picture for the Xiaomi C2? Lastly - it seems like the Xiaomi C2 price has held steady for some time now.


Hi. I haven't seen the T1 in person. Yes, I have the Xiaomi Laser C2. I made some adjustments when I first got it and it's been plug and play/set it and forget ever since.

I don't know best uncalibrated color. It had a redish/magent push when I first received it, pre-owned, even with Gregory's settings plugged into it. I do have a .8 gain screen, so maybe that's why.


----------



## ACE844

m0j0 said:


> For those interested, here's my Vrroom settings I've been using lately


I noticed you have the backlight minimum set to 100 in the box but the backlight is off and not supported as well as nonfunctional on the T1. Have you tried modifying that value or making it 0 to see if that had any effect or is there a tone map or other reason to have it set at 100?


----------



## m0j0

ACE844 said:


> I noticed you have the backlight minimum set to 100 in the box but the backlight is off and not supported as well as nonfunctional on the T1. Have you tried modifying that value or making it 0 to see if that had any effect or is there a tone map or other reason to have it set at 100?


That's just a default setting. I have tried changing it to no effect before. It doesn't seem to do anything with a projector, but probably does with an LED TV or something along those lines.


----------



## zoomx2

Highly recommended install Button mapper. I remap the home button and input source button. Also Projectivy launcher to disable all unused Chinese apps.


----------



## m0j0

Got ProjectIvy launcher installed today. Seems pretty cool so far!


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> Got ProjectIvy launcher installed today. Seems pretty cool so far!


Woo Hoo, can't wait to see your results!


----------



## spocky12

JereyWolf said:


> With Projectivy internal view enabled, is there a way to toggle dynamic contrast in the mediatek settings? @spocky12


For now, you can only use the mediatek settings with the internal view. So unless it's available there (maybe with another name?), that isn't possible.


Joered101 said:


> Oh damn, good point. Could it possible affect input lag then? I was about to buy the global and now this has thrown me.


The Chinese version has Android tv too, the launcher is different and the Google services aren't available but it shouldn't affect the input lag (there's no additional layer on global version)


----------



## ProFragger

zoomx2 said:


> Highly recommended install Button mapper. I remap the home button and input source button. Also Projectivy launcher to disable all unused Chinese apps.


Once you have Projectivy installed or Button mapper, do you notice the stock remote not working on press and hold to volume up and down? Instead, press and hold stops at 2 steps volume up or down?


----------



## ProFragger

spocky12 said:


> For now, you can only use the mediatek settings with the internal view. So unless it's available there (maybe with another name?), that isn't possible.The Chinese version has Android tv too, the launcher is different and the Google services aren't available but it shouldn't affect the input lag (there's no additional layer on global version)


Spocky12, first of all... Thank you for an amazing tool, I'd likely buy Premium. Second question, slightly unrelated... Can the Chromecast application from full Android TV be installed on these projectors and somehow enabling Chromecasting ability, like the official Android TV versions? Thanks for your thoughts.


----------



## zoomx2

ProFragger said:


> Once you have Projectivy installed or Button mapper, do you notice the stock remote not working on press and hold to volume up and down? Instead, press and hold stops at 2 steps volume up or down?


No I mapped input and home button only. All other button functions perfectly


----------



## ProFragger

zoomx2 said:


> No I mapped input and home button only. All other button functions perfectly


Got it, are you using Projectivy?


----------



## zoomx2

ProFragger said:


> Got it, are you using Projectivy?


Yes but not to replace Feng launcher because I need cec control


----------



## ProFragger

zoomx2 said:


> Yes but not to replace Feng launcher because I need cec control


Can you explain the added CEC ability with Projectivy? I'm/was loving the tool, but it's permanently affected my T1 volume control, where each press and hold, stops the volume going up by 1 or 2, unlike the stock behavior, which was hold up or down for fast volume up and down. 

I'm kinda concerned about this issue as uninstalling and powering off the T1 hasn't even solved the issue like it did the first time... 

Appreciate your help.


----------



## zoomx2

If you use Projectivy launcher override feng laucher. You could not use cec function. It explains in previous message by Spocky12


----------



## gostocks

ProFragger said:


> Anyone successfully getting Atmos audio using internal speakers, using a Google based Streamer? Can you share your sound config settings? Thank you.


Hi..same situation as you. Don't bother killing yourself to get it working. There's something strange about how Chromecast does DD+ that's not recognized by T1.

I tried Fengmi support but they gave the standard reply "we do have such device" so looks like we're SOL. I think Apple TV works. Don't bother with audio splitter..I tried and doesn't work


----------



## ProFragger

gostocks said:


> Hi..same situation as you. Don't bother killing yourself to get it working. There's something strange about how Chromecast does DD+ that's not recognized by T1.
> 
> I tried Fengmi support but they gave the standard reply "we do have such device" so looks like we're SOL. I think Apple TV works. Don't bother with audio splitter..I tried and doesn't work


Thank you for the very helpful response! I'll stop chasing 😊. 

I wonder if the same thing happens with Nvidia Shield as well...?


----------



## eezrider

ProFragger said:


> Can you explain the added CEC ability with Projectivy? I'm/was loving the tool, but it's permanently affected my T1 volume control, where each press and hold, stops the volume going up by 1 or 2, unlike the stock behavior, which was hold up or down for fast volume up and down.
> 
> I'm kinda concerned about this issue as uninstalling and powering off the T1 hasn't even solved the issue like it did the first time...
> 
> Appreciate your help.


I had that behavior with a Vizio sound bar connected via HDMI eARC. I did not have Projectivy installed.


----------



## ProFragger

eezrider said:


> I had that behavior with a Vizio sound bar connected via HDMI eARC. I did not have Projectivy installed.


Interesting. I have no sound source on, but the issue has risen twice with Projectivy. Sadly, this time, it's not going away even with an uninstall 😔...


----------



## jeff9n

JereyWolf said:


> Man....I spent the last 6 hours experimenting with an HDFury Vrroom trying to make the LLDV look better than SDR and now I think I've made a decision to keep the device, but just use it to disable HDR entirely. At least in my opinion, SDR is much more appealing than HDR on this projector.


I returned HD Fury Arcana and uses SDR mode strictly. You get much more accurate
color and brighter picture.


----------



## jeff9n

tnaik4 said:


> anyone here using the T1 in a totally dedicated theatre with a normal 1.0 gain white screen ?i have black velvet on ceiling/side walls/ almost everywhere, and changing screen is not an option since i have other projectors i use too.


I am using a 1.1 gain white matte screen. It's great under light controlled room


----------



## ProFragger

jeff9n said:


> I returned HD Fury Arcana and uses SDR mode strictly. You get much more accurate
> color and brighter picture.


Can you elaborate on this? Are you using the Projectivy to use the internal Mediatek tools to tune OR, you've just disabled DV/HDR altogether? If so, do you find T1 still being a worthwhile selection for you?


----------



## ProFragger

Request for T1 users:

Can you guys observe the Formovie logo light behavior on your T1s and report back please? I swear when I first got the projector, it would light up on Power On and stay on till powered off. After, what I think was the Projectivy install, it lights up at Power On by dims to almost off or off by the time the FengOS logo is finished being displayed. 

Thank you for your time.


----------



## zoomx2

It is On for few seconds when it boots. It never stay ON.


----------



## zoomx2

ProFragger said:


> Once you have Projectivy installed or Button mapper, do you notice the stock remote not working on press and hold to volume up and down? Instead, press and hold stops at 2 steps volume up or down?


Check button mapper you may customize the volume by mistake


----------



## ProFragger

zoomx2 said:


> Check button mapper you may customize the volume by mistake





zoomx2 said:


> It is On for few seconds when it boots. It never stay ON.





zoomx2 said:


> Check button mapper you may customize the volume by mistake


Thanks for checking the light for me, bud. Wonder if I imagined it... Hmm... 

I never installed the Button Mapper. So I'm not sure what causes this issue other than the Projectivy install is the only thing I can remember.


----------



## zoomx2

My only suggestion is reset the unit.


----------



## ProFragger

zoomx2 said:


> My only suggestion is reset the unit.


Seems like this will have to be... But also means I could never install Projectivy for other reasons either... 😭


----------



## jeff9n

ProFragger said:


> Can you elaborate on this? Are you using the Projectivy to use the internal Mediatek tools to tune OR, you've just disabled DV/HDR altogether? If so, do you find T1 still being a worthwhile selection for you?


I force the Roku display to 4K SDR. So no HDR or DV. No need to tinker with CMS using Projectivy or external video processor like HD Fury Arcana/Vertex. I think I represent the typical projector users. Just turn it on to enjoy the immersive big screen without any tweaking. Under SDR, the tone mapping doesn't look artificial. Colors still pop on T1 or any UST running in SDR mode. 

Here are couple screen capture from BumbleBee on the Xiaomi 4L UST running in 4K SDR mode.


----------



## zoomx2

I have no issue with Projectivy. Reset and install again.


----------



## Maqnvm7

jeff9n said:


> I force the Roku display to 4K SDR. So no HDR or DV. No need to tinker with CMS using Projectivy or external video processor like HD Fury Arcana/Vertex. I think I represent the typical projector users. Just turn it on to enjoy the immersive big screen without any tweaking. Under SDR, the tone mapping doesn't look artificial. Colors still pop on T1 or any UST running in SDR mode.
> 
> Here are couple screen capture from BumbleBee on the Xiaomi 4L UST running in 4K SDR mode.
> 
> View attachment 3281222
> 
> 
> View attachment 3281223


Hmm, on my unit SDR colors look pretty washed out compared to HDR or DV. I have to increase saturation to get similar colors.


----------



## HCMKII

spocky12 said:


> For now, you can only use the mediatek settings with the internal view. So unless it's available there (maybe with another name?), that isn't possible.The Chinese version has Android tv too, the launcher is different and the Google services aren't available but it shouldn't affect the input lag (there's no additional layer on global version)


&é
Hi Spocky12, 
What a job. Projectivy is fantastic.Google services aren't available ( Chinese version). Where and How to get the premium paid version, please. Is there a french version (premium or basic). Where contact you in French language?


----------



## spocky12

ProFragger said:


> Spocky12, first of all... Thank you for an amazing tool, I'd likely buy Premium. Second question, slightly unrelated... Can the Chromecast application from full Android TV be installed on these projectors and somehow enabling Chromecasting ability, like the official Android TV versions? Thanks for your thoughts.


The Chromecast app relies on Google services, which need root to install, so that's not possible yet.



zoomx2 said:


> If you use Projectivy launcher override feng laucher. You could not use cec function. It explains in previous message by Spocky12


Maybe I haven't been clear in my explanations.
"Override stock launcher" doesn't disable the cec feature, it's when you select "prefer internal tv view" (so that you have direct access to mediatek settings) that it doesn't work because it uses my own implementation of tv view (and third party code can't access cec)



ProFragger said:


> Seems like this will have to be... But also means I could never install Projectivy for other reasons either...


Regarding volume keys, the accessibility service intercepts keys (menu, home...) in order to react even when the launcher is not focused.
I'm not doing anything special for volume keys, but I'll check if the genetic code affects the key repeat detection.



HCMKII said:


> &é
> Hi Spocky12,
> What a job. Projectivy is fantastic.Google services aren't available ( Chinese version). Where and How to get the premium paid version, please. Is there a french version (premium or basic). Where contact you in French language?


If you install morelocale and follow its instructions, you can change the system language to french (or any other language). Projectivy currently has translations for french and german. FengOs partially supports french (the rest will still be in English)
Premium is only available on Google Play, I need to find a workaround.
As for french contact, Projectivy support thread is English only because I need to centralize feedback. But you can still pm me in french.


----------



## Sunbox2408

Hi all, wanted to seek some advice on streamers/media player pairing with T1.

My Shield tv (tube version) went dead recently and I am in the market to buy a new streamer combo.

I am tossing between purely Shield TV pro which will give the much needed nas capabilities via Plex along with AI upscaling OR should I go with zidoo z9x paired with an economical streamer (firestick Max or chromecast) considering z9x will do the upscaling and tone mapping (do i need to spend for roku ultra despite the z9x?).

Any suggestion is appreciated.


----------



## tnaik4

Has anyone measured the ansi contrast of this unit? Or the contrast at different adl levels up to 20%.
Would be interesting to see if it has the high ansi contrast that most dlps has.


----------



## HCMKII

spocky12 said:


> The Chromecast app relies on Google services, which need root to install, so that's not possible yet.
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I haven't been clear in my explanations.
> "Override stock launcher" doesn't disable the cec feature, it's when you select "prefer internal tv view" (so that you have direct access to mediatek settings) that it doesn't work because it uses my own implementation of tv view (and third party code can't access cec)
> 
> 
> 
> Regarding volume keys, the accessibility service intercepts keys (menu, home...) in order to react even when the launcher is not focused.
> I'm not doing anything special for volume keys, but I'll check if the genetic code affects the key repeat detection.
> 
> 
> 
> If you install morelocale and follow its instructions, you can change the system language to french (or any other language). Projectivy currently has translations for french and german. FengOs partially supports french (the rest will still be in English)
> Premium is only available on Google Play, I need to find a workaround.
> As for french contact, Projectivy support thread is English only because I need to centralize feedback. But you can still pm me in french.


Thank you spocky


----------



## Demetri Zuev

spocky12 said:


> Premium is only available on Google Play, I need to find a workaround.


I second the request for a workaround to be able to get Premium without Google Play


----------



## ProFragger

spocky12 said:


> The Chromecast app relies on Google services, which need root to install, so that's not possible yet.
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I haven't been clear in my explanations.
> "Override stock launcher" doesn't disable the cec feature, it's when you select "prefer internal tv view" (so that you have direct access to mediatek settings) that it doesn't work because it uses my own implementation of tv view (and third party code can't access cec)
> 
> 
> 
> Regarding volume keys, the accessibility service intercepts keys (menu, home...) in order to react even when the launcher is not focused.
> I'm not doing anything special for volume keys, but I'll check if the genetic code affects the key repeat detection.
> 
> 
> 
> If you install morelocale and follow its instructions, you can change the system language to french (or any other language). Projectivy currently has translations for french and german. FengOs partially supports french (the rest will still be in English)
> Premium is only available on Google Play, I need to find a workaround.
> As for french contact, Projectivy support thread is English only because I need to centralize feedback. But you can still pm me in french.


Thanks Spocky12. For what its worth for your troubleshooting, the volume key issue persists even if I uninstall the app. But definitely also triggers when I installed it and rebooted for the first time. I did select the Intercept option, not sure if that matters. I'm happy to test for you if you need it. Thank you again!


----------



## ProFragger

Demetri Zuev said:


> I second the request for a workaround to be able to get Premium without Google Play


We can all buy the app from Play Store, if mobile install is available?


----------



## JereyWolf

spocky12 said:


> For now, you can only use the mediatek settings with the internal view. So unless it's available there (maybe with another name?), that isn't possible.The Chinese version has Android tv too, the launcher is different and the Google services aren't available but it shouldn't affect the input lag (there's no additional layer on global version)


The major barrier for me not using Projectivy exclusively is that I so often have to go into the hdmi settings to toggle 1.4/2.0 to get the 4k60 signal to pass. It's relatively easy to do when using the Feng OS menu. Has anyone found different way to toggle HDMI when using Projectivy internal view?

I sure wish the handshake issue would just be addressed via firmware.....


----------



## xrayg1971

question for all ... its just got very humid here in NY and my ust alr fixed frame screen has developed some waves in the corners ... , has anyone gotten this and if so what is the solution for this ? thanks


----------



## JereyWolf

xrayg1971 said:


> question for all ... its just got very humid here in NY and my ust alr fixed frame screen has developed some waves in the corners ... , has anyone gotten this and if so what is the solution for this ? thanks


My Grandview Dynamique screen gets really bad in high humidity. A director from Grandview told me that it was not supposed to happen and that it must have been a factory defect. Unfortunately for me the only remedy was to turn on the AC and reduce humidity which gets rid of most visible wrinkles.


----------



## rooterha

geeze thats awful


----------



## xrayg1971

yea not that its happened to me im reading up on it and it seems that it happens to alot of us


----------



## m0j0

xrayg1971 said:


> yea not that its happened to me im reading up on it and it seems that it happens to alot of us


I use the stronger springs on mine and haven’t seen any issues with regard to wrinkles, though before I swapped out the springs it was a little wavy in the top right corner area.


----------



## JereyWolf

xrayg1971 said:


> yea not that its happened to me im reading up on it and it seems that it happens to alot of us





rooterha said:


> geeze thats awful


Yeah, it looks horrible. And without a doubt it's directly related to humidity. 
@xrayg1971 which specific screen do you have? Is it spring tensioned?


----------



## xrayg1971

JereyWolf said:


> Yeah, it looks horrible. And without a doubt it's directly related to humidity.
> @xrayg1971 which specific screen do you have? Is it spring tensioned?


yes spring tensioned sucks im waiting to hear back from hisense support


----------



## xrayg1971

m0j0 said:


> I use the stronger springs on mine and haven’t seen any issues with regard to wrinkles, though before I swapped out the springs it was a little wavy in the top right corner area.


mojo what springs did you upgrade to ? link?


----------



## m0j0

xrayg1971 said:


> mojo what springs did you upgrade to ? link?


I didn't actually have to buy any. My xyscreen came with two sets of springs, the typical black ones and then some more heavy duty silver ones. Initially I used all the black ones, but then took it down and did some silver ones on the sides and it got much tighter and took care of the problem.


----------



## JereyWolf

m0j0 said:


> I didn't actually have to buy any. My xyscreen came with two sets of springs, the typical black ones and then some more heavy duty silver ones. Initially I used all the black ones, but then took it down and did some silver ones on the sides and it got much tighter and took care of the problem.


Did you have any issues with wrinkles developing from humidity or were they only there directly after the initial assembly?


----------



## m0j0

JereyWolf said:


> Did you have any issues with wrinkles developing from humidity or were they only there directly after the initial assembly?


I think mine was after initial install. I haven't experienced anything with humidity yet. I live in Florida so should be some opportunities...


----------



## dami1337

Has anybody an idea how to get rid of the red push in dolby vision via the projectivity enabled settings? Ozark is a pain to watch with faces being often too red vs SDR.

Nearly as bad as the HDMI handshake issues which for me is a reason to not recommend the device until it is fixed (if it can be fixed actually).


----------



## DesertDog

Sunbox2408 said:


> Hi all, wanted to seek some advice on streamers/media player pairing with T1.
> 
> My Shield tv (tube version) went dead recently and I am in the market to buy a new streamer combo.
> 
> I am tossing between purely Shield TV pro which will give the much needed nas capabilities via Plex along with AI upscaling OR should I go with zidoo z9x paired with an economical streamer (firestick Max or chromecast) considering z9x will do the upscaling and tone mapping (do i need to spend for roku ultra despite the z9x?).
> 
> Any suggestion is appreciated.


My favorite combo right now is Zidoo z9x for local streaming from my NAS and an AppleTV 4k for streaming services. I know it's not the most economical solution but the price difference between an ATV and something like a fire stick is a drop in the bucket compared to everything else in the room. I had been using a Shield for local streaming but switched in January and I've been really happy with the change. 

BTW, if you're not married to Plex for your backend server then take a look at Emby. It's what I've been using the last few years instead of Plex. I mention it only because the Android client for it works on the Z9X and has an option for using the Z9X's player over the Emby player. Plex doesn't have the external player option at this time.


----------



## Maqnvm7

dami1337 said:


> Has anybody an idea how to get rid of the red push in dolby vision via the projectivity enabled settings? Ozark is a pain to watch with faces being often too red vs SDR.
> 
> Nearly as bad as the HDMI handshake issues which for me is a reason to not recommend the device until it is fixed (if it can be fixed actually).


Do you have an example with a timestamp?

The handshake issue for some reason only happened to me once since the FengOS 2.0 update. I’m using an Apple TV 4K, Sony UBP-X800M2 and Panasonic UB-824. Not sure why I‘m lucky in that regard.


----------



## spocky12

ProFragger said:


> We can all buy the app from Play Store, if mobile install is available?


That's an option I considered, but I still need to find a way to make the T1 aware of the purchase (not only Google play is missing, but Google services are also required to discover and validate purchases).


JereyWolf said:


> The major barrier for me not using Projectivy exclusively is that I so often have to go into the hdmi settings to toggle 1.4/2.0 to get the 4k60 signal to pass. It's relatively easy to do when using the Feng OS menu. Has anyone found different way to toggle HDMI when using Projectivy internal view?
> 
> I sure wish the handshake issue would just be addressed via firmware.....


I understand your point. I had the same issue on firmware 1.4. Now with 2.0, it seems totally fixed for me (shield pro -> Yamaha rxv685 -> vertex2 -> T1). 
Let's hope Fengmi won't stop here.


----------



## ProFragger

eezrider said:


> I had that behavior with a Vizio sound bar connected via HDMI eARC. I did not have Projectivy installed.


Did it ever go away or did you ever find a solution?


----------



## ProFragger

spocky12 said:


> That's an option I considered, but I still need to find a way to make the T1 aware of the purchase (not only Google play is missing, but Google services are also required to discover and validate purchases).I understand your point. I had the same issue on firmware 1.4. Now with 2.0, it seems totally fixed for me (shield pro -> Yamaha rxv685 -> vertex2 -> T1).
> Let's hope Fengmi won't stop here.


But isn't your APK with Premium enabled features? If so, those of us that want to support you could just buy a Premium "key" or dummy app that thanks us for a donation or something 😊... 

Looking forward to if you find any clues to the relationship with Projectivy and the volume button losing the press and hold up and down?


----------



## ProFragger

I know one member confirmed the behavior, but can you guys also share how the Formovie logo light works for you all? Does it stay on the whole time or does it come on bright when the projector is turned on and fades to almost off after the FengOS logo? 

Thank you for your time.


----------



## JereyWolf

spocky12 said:


> I understand your point. I had the same issue on firmware 1.4. Now with 2.0, it seems totally fixed for me (shield pro -> Yamaha rxv685 -> vertex2 -> T1).
> Let's hope Fengmi won't stop here.


I think I may have stumbled into an expensive fix for the HDMI handshake issue. Because I'm using my HDfury device to disable HDR, I'm not using the automix EDID. Instead, I've switched to a fixed 4k60hz EDID and after just testing 10 power cycles, it's correctly started up as HDMI 2.1, displaying 4k60hz from the Nvidia Shield every time. 

I typically have had to toggle HDMI 1.4/2.0 50% of the time after startup to avoid being locked to a 1080p signal.

It's definitely not ideal...but maybe can help lead to a real solution.


----------



## JereyWolf

ProFragger said:


> I know one member confirmed the behavior, but can you guys also share how the Formovie logo light works for you all? Does it stay on the whole time or does it come on bright when the projector is turned on and fades to almost off after the FengOS logo?
> 
> Thank you for your time.


My logo light has strange behavior...the light comes on briefly when it shuts down and is typically off while the projector is on.


----------



## ProFragger

JereyWolf said:


> My logo light has strange behavior...the light comes on briefly when it shuts down and is typically off while the projector is on.


Thanks, I'll notice mine at shutdown and report back for you...


----------



## ProFragger

JereyWolf said:


> My logo light has strange behavior...the light comes on briefly when it shuts down and is typically off while the projector is on.


One other thing... When you boot on, can you notice when the light first dims or turns off when starting?


----------



## JereyWolf

ProFragger said:


> One other thing... When you boot on, can you notice when the light first dims or turns off when starting?


Yeah the brightness changes and it seems like it changes display modes because the colors shift hard.


----------



## JereyWolf

This first image is a screencap next to a photo of my screen using essentially stock settings in SDR. The second photo shows those settings, the ones that are not visible are View brightness and dynamic contrast off.
I think strong performance with defaults, but the screencap is clearly warmer and blue on the T1 is not quite right. I believe a better match could easily be achieved with the RGB gain adjustments.

No intentions here, just observations.















Link to screencap.


https://s3.us-west-1.wasabisys.com/cap-that.com/tv/the-witcher/206/1080/images/the-witcher2x06_0671.jpg


----------



## gostocks

ProFragger said:


> Thank you for the very helpful response! I'll stop chasing 😊.
> 
> I wonder if the same thing happens with Nvidia Shield as well...?


I believe Nvidia Shield is fine though I personally don't have one. I have read tons of people here on this thread using it but no one complained. As I said your other option could be Apple TV. For the time being I'm using my Sony x700 if I need Atmos on Netflix.


----------



## ProFragger

gostocks said:


> I believe Nvidia Shield is fine though I personally don't have one. I have read tons of people here on this thread using it but no one complained. As I said your other option could be Apple TV. For the time being I'm using my Sony x700 if I need Atmos on Netflix.


Thank you for sharing. I've heard similar things, folks using their consoles as well for Atmos through the projector speakers. I'm going to try best to stay in the Google world for my streaming solution. Even before ATV4K or Roku Ultra, I want to look into the Shield and Fire TV Cube. Especially the latter looks like great value. 

I hope our fellow consumers look at this and if they have a Shield or other steamers and confirm if they can get Atmos from their projector speakers.


----------



## Sunbox2408

DesertDog said:


> My favorite combo right now is Zidoo z9x for local streaming from my NAS and an AppleTV 4k for streaming services. I know it's not the most economical solution but the price difference between an ATV and something like a fire stick is a drop in the bucket compared to everything else in the room. I had been using a Shield for local streaming but switched in January and I've been really happy with the change.
> 
> BTW, if you're not married to Plex for your backend server then take a look at Emby. It's what I've been using the last few years instead of Plex. I mention it only because the Android client for it works on the Z9X and has an option for using the Z9X's player over the Emby player. Plex doesn't have the external player option at this time.


Thanks @DesertDog for your response. I am not married to Plex at all so far as I had the shield tube version with no plex support. I'll look into Emby and see if that works.


----------



## Maqnvm7

spocky12 said:


> That's an option I considered, but I still need to find a way to make the T1 aware of the purchase (not only Google play is missing, but Google services are also required to discover and validate purchases).I understand your point. I had the same issue on firmware 1.4. Now with 2.0, it seems totally fixed for me (shield pro -> Yamaha rxv685 -> vertex2 -> T1).
> Let's hope Fengmi won't stop here.


Hmm I also have a receiver in the chain. Maybe that helps? What about you @JereyWolf ?


----------



## okvcos

Aztar35 said:


> It had a redish/magent push when I first received it, pre-owned, even with Gregory's settings plugged into it. I do have a .8 gain screen, so maybe that's why.


Sorry for the off topic .... Azart, what values of red, green and blue do you use, I also have a greater tone on redish/magent .... i have Xiaomi C2 and Gregory's setting


----------



## gwynned

Hello,

I received the fengmi formovie T1 on Friday May 13th.

Sunday (15th) I noticed spots on the projected image. First I saw one, then two, and now I feel like there are three.
I didn't see them the first day, but maybe I hadn't noticed them.

I am attaching photos. They are a bit dark, and the stains are not so obvious in real life, but they are still visible on faces or light backgrounds
I checked the projector glass. It's not perfect but it seemed fine to me. Obviously, it's not a stain on the wall (the stain moves when I move the projector).
I reset the device but there was no change.

Do you have any idea what is causing these stains? Is there anything I can do to troubleshoot or does this require warranty support?


----------



## JereyWolf

gwynned said:


> Hello,
> 
> I received the fengmi formovie T1 on Friday May 13th.
> 
> Sunday (15th) I noticed spots on the projected image. First I saw one, then two, and now I feel like there are three.
> I didn't see them the first day, but maybe I hadn't noticed them.
> 
> I am attaching photos. They are a bit dark, and the stains are not so obvious in real life, but they are still visible on faces or light backgrounds
> I checked the projector glass. It's not perfect but it seemed fine to me. Obviously, it's not a stain on the wall (the stain moves when I move the projector).
> I reset the device but there was no change.
> 
> Do you have any idea what is causing these stains? Is there anything I can do to troubleshoot or does this require warranty support?
> 
> View attachment 3281668
> View attachment 3281670
> View attachment 3281669
> View attachment 3281672
> View attachment 3281667
> View attachment 3281671


It definitely looks like something on the glass. I see the same greenish colored outline when there is a hair on my lens cover.
If you haven't already tried, I'd say it's worth trying to wipe the outside of the glass clean...just to be certain that there's not some small debris causing it.


----------



## JereyWolf

Maqnvm7 said:


> Hmm I also have a receiver in the chain. Maybe that helps? What about you @JereyWolf ?


My signal chain as of a few days ago is Nvidia shield pro or PC -> Denon AVR -> HDfury Vrroom -> T1.
Like I mentioned above, forcing a fixed 4k60hz EDID via the Vrroom seems to have eliminated the handshake issue for me (after testing 10 power cycles, need more long term data to confirm).


----------



## JereyWolf

A strange thing happened with my T1 recently....when I turned it on one morning, the image was mirrored. It was not like that when I turned it off, so it seems pretty random. 
I now have to run in "mirrored" projection mode to get the proper image and it's been like this for about a week. 

Has anyone else seen this happen?


----------



## rjyap

JereyWolf said:


> A strange thing happened with my T1 recently....when I turned it on one morning, the image was mirrored. It was not like that when I turned it off, so it seems pretty random.
> I now have to run in "mirrored" projection mode to get the proper image and it's been like this for about a week.
> 
> Has anyone else seen this happen?


Never happen on my unit. Is there any option to factory reset the unit?


----------



## JereyWolf

rjyap said:


> Never happen on my unit. Is there any option to factory reset the unit?


So funny thing....I accidentally did a factory reset through the mediatek menu last night. After the reset though, my screen was flipped back to a reverse image and language set back to default. I had to navigate through the whole startup process with the reversed image in Chinese language, so I couldn't even use the Google translate camera app to translate for me because everything was backwards haha. I just had to use memory of button placement to get through it.

So even after that reset, the image is still reversed and to get it back to normal, I have to run it in "mirrored" mode.

The accidental factory reset is the reason I posted those images above with default settings...just because I was back to out of the box defaults.


----------



## humax

gwynned said:


> Do you have any idea what is causing these stains? Is there anything I can do to troubleshoot or does this require warranty support?



Someone suggested earlier the protective glass is some sort of ND filter that can be removed. If you feel bold enough, you may try cleaning both sides of the glass thoroughly with some lens cleaning liquid. If it is that simple and the blotches go away, you are in the clear. If not and the problem is in the inner optical path, try contacting your seller first and then Fengmi support. Good luck!


----------



## rjyap

JereyWolf said:


> So funny thing....I accidentally did a factory reset through the mediatek menu last night. After the reset though, my screen was flipped back to a reverse image and language set back to default. I had to navigate through the whole startup process with the reversed image in Chinese language, so I couldn't even use the Google translate camera app to translate for me because everything was backwards haha. I just had to use memory of button placement to get through it.
> 
> So even after that reset, the image is still reversed and to get it back to normal, I have to run it in "mirrored" mode.
> 
> The accidental factory reset is the reason I posted those images above with default settings...just because I was back to out of the box defaults.


Try Fengmi system reset. Under Settings --> Systems --> Reset. It seems the Fengmi Settings will override Mediatek settings based on my observation.


----------



## ProFragger

JereyWolf said:


> So funny thing....I accidentally did a factory reset through the mediatek menu last night. After the reset though, my screen was flipped back to a reverse image and language set back to default. I had to navigate through the whole startup process with the reversed image in Chinese language, so I couldn't even use the Google translate camera app to translate for me because everything was backwards haha. I just had to use memory of button placement to get through it.
> 
> So even after that reset, the image is still reversed and to get it back to normal, I have to run it in "mirrored" mode.
> 
> The accidental factory reset is the reason I posted those images above with default settings...just because I was back to out of the box defaults.


LOL fun story, thank you for sharing so we learn from your discomfort 😊...


----------



## ProFragger

humax said:


> Someone suggested earlier the protective glass is some sort of ND filter that can be removed. If you feel bold enough, you may try cleaning both sides of the glass thoroughly with some lens cleaning liquid. If it is that simple and the blotches go away, you are in the clear. If not and the problem is in the inner optical path, try contacting your seller first and then Fengmi support. Good luck!


My unit has that issue where the one side of the glass pops out a bit... Any recommendations if any of you have used some adhesives to try to seal off the glass better?


----------



## ProFragger

@spocky12 after factory reset and installing Projectivy and enabling Accessibility permissions, the sticky volume key issue definitely came back. I thought I'd have to reset the T1 again, but I could verify that toggling the Accessibility permissions definitely fixed the issue with permissions OFF and brought the issue back when the permissions were set to ON. 

The only weird thing is, that before I had to Factory reset the T1, no matter how many times I installed and uninstalled Projectivy and turned on and off the permissions, the volume button issue would not go away. 

Just reporting the exact behavior, in case in helps with troubleshooting 😊.


----------



## gostocks

ProFragger said:


> Thank you for sharing. I've heard similar things, folks using their consoles as well for Atmos through the projector speakers. I'm going to try best to stay in the Google world for my streaming solution. Even before ATV4K or Roku Ultra, I want to look into the Shield and Fire TV Cube. Especially the latter looks like great value.
> 
> I hope our fellow consumers look at this and if they have a Shield or other steamers and confirm if they can get Atmos from their projector speakers.


Same here about Google ecosystem.
I'm was thinking to try the 🆕 Xiaomi 4K stick that supports DV/Atmos but I'm trying to be very conscious of my e-waste spenditure...I have so many devices.

Does anyone on here have the Xiaomi and validate Atmos works?


----------



## ProFragger

gostocks said:


> Same here about Google ecosystem.
> I'm was thinking to try the 🆕 Xiaomi 4K stick that supports DV/Atmos but I'm trying to be very conscious of my e-waste spenditure...I have so many devices.
> 
> Does anyone on here have the Xiaomi and validate Atmos works?


I also intend to try the TiVo 4K Stream...


----------



## Demetri Zuev

Guys, what are the differences between Chinese and Global versions? Are there any tech specs differences or it's only about language and preinstalled apps?


----------



## m0j0

I feel pretty good about the picture I'm getting recently on the T1, so thought I'd share what settings I'm using as of now with my Roku Ultra and HDFury Vrroom. I did install ProjectIvy and went in to adjust White Balance a bit to try and get a slight improvement in picture. I ended up just using a warm type setting but felt like the grey bar ramps in the Spears and Munsil disc look good and grey/neutral (not too red and not too blue). This is just eyeballing it, no calibration equipment was used. Here's the setting I used in ProjectIvy:

Settings>Mediatek additional settings>Factory menu>White Balance

Source: HDMI 1
Picture Mode: User
Color Temperature: User
Adjust Video/UI: Adjust Video
R Gain: 1015
G Gain: 1030
B Gain: 1017
R Offset: 1023
G Offset: 1023
B Offset: 1023

Here's the T1 settings I am using:
Brightness Mode: View Mode
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 45
Saturation: 46 (I bump this up in the 60's when the kids watch their cartoony type shows)
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 51
Color: Custom
Red: 965
Green: 1031
Blue: 1019

And here's my Vrroom settings:


----------



## m0j0

And here's a few pictures:


----------



## m0j0

Demetri Zuev said:


> Guys, what are the differences between Chinese and Global versions? Nothingbutlabel has both in stock, are there any tech specs differences or it's only about language and preinstalled apps?


It's been covered, but to summarize, the hardware specs are a little in favor of the chinese version, but the international version has Android 11 with English menus and access to color management features that allow it to be more accurately calibrated. International is a little more expensive, but you can buy and have it serviced in the US.


----------



## Demetri Zuev

m0j0 said:


> It's been covered, but to summarize, the hardware specs are a little in favor of the chinese version, but the international version has Android 11 with English menus and access to color management features that allow it to be more accurately calibrated. International is a little more expensive, but you can buy and have it serviced in the US.


Thank you for the summary, I tried searching first, but couldn't find an option to look for a word in a specific thread. How is the hardware of a chinese version superior? And are those color management features in the Global version basically the same as the ones accessible through Projectivy? The difference in cost on AliExpress is almost $500, so I would say it's quite substantial


----------



## m0j0

Demetri Zuev said:


> Thank you for the summary, I tried searching first, but couldn't find an option to look for a word in a specific thread. How is the hardware of a chinese version superior? And are those color management features in the Global version basically the same as the ones accessible through Projectivy? The difference in cost on AliExpress is almost $500, so I would say it's quite substantial


I believe there is a 2 point adjustment capability with ProjectIvy and an 11 point white balance adjust capability on the Global version, but I'm not sure on the specifics beyond that. According to Dave Harper, who got access to the Global version, the capabilities for calibration are much better on the Global version. Hardware wise, I don't recall the specs, so you'll have to go through the thread to try and find the hardware differences.


----------



## clipghost

Demetri Zuev said:


> Thank you for the summary, I tried searching first, but couldn't find an option to look for a word in a specific thread. How is the hardware of a chinese version superior? And are those color management features in the Global version basically the same as the ones accessible through Projectivy? The difference in cost on AliExpress is almost $500, so I would say it's quite substantial


Can you PM me a link to both? I can't seem to find one or the other. Even on their website. Thanks!


----------



## Koringas

Demetri Zuev said:


> Guys, what are the differences between Chinese and Global versions? Nothingbutlabel has both in stock, are there any tech specs differences or it's only about language and preinstalled apps?


do you have the link for the global version?


----------



## ProFragger

Those using external Streamers on the Chinese T1, can you share your remote set ups? 

My T1 remote controls MOST of the Chromecast, EXCEPT when I hit the "Home" button, it doesn't trigger the home for my Chromecast, instead, it takes me to the T1 home 😭. Workaround is loads of presses of the Back button. 

Anyone got a better way?


----------



## Demetri Zuev

My post got deleted, so anyone who needs a link to a Global version of T1 can PM me, it's supposed to come out at the beginning of June


----------



## Vcnzo

Wow, 3500$ for the global version vs 2500$ for the local version ?


----------



## 3sprit

Vcnzo said:


> Wow, 3500$ for the global version vs 2500$ for the local version ?











Formovie Fengmi T1


I have been ok with the ~40ms latency in gaming mode for things like Forza and FPS games, I am not at a competitive level, but for sure notice if I forget to put the projector in gaming mode. At first I was blaming Bluetooth Latency or Game Stream Latency, then picked up a Series X and PS5 and...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> And here's a few pictures:


Maybe it's the way the camera shows on my screen but I liked the earlier pictures you had much better. Even with the infamous "horse background" shot, I see less detail with the pics you've just provided. But I'm sure they will be tweaked again, LOL!


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> Maybe it's the way the camera shows on my screen but I liked the earlier pictures you had much better. Even with the infamous "horse background" shot, I see less detail with the pics you've just provided. But I'm sure they will be tweaked again, LOL!


Now that I'm shooting with more view brightness vs night brightness, the pictures are less accurate compared to what I see on screen. That might be part of it.


----------



## ACE844

ProFragger said:


> @spocky12 after factory reset and installing Projectivy and enabling Accessibility permissions, the sticky volume key issue definitely came back. I thought I'd have to reset the T1 again, but I could verify that toggling the Accessibility permissions definitely fixed the issue with permissions OFF and brought the issue back when the permissions were set to ON.
> 
> The only weird thing is, that before I had to Factory reset the T1, no matter how many times I installed and uninstalled Projectivy and turned on and off the permissions, the volume button issue would not go away.
> 
> Just reporting the exact behavior, in case in helps with troubleshooting 😊.


@spocky12 I also have this issue the volume bar stays on screen for at least 30 secs. Additionally, I noticed the HDMI issue seems to be rearing its head more frequently as well. It happens about every other restart.Is there a way to access error logs to send you to help to troubleshoot?


----------



## newbies1

Hey everyone, first post! I have my eye on this projector and I assume it runs Android. Would it be practical to install Plex or Kodi directly on the projector and stream high bitrate 4K content from a local network source or would that overheat the processor? I'm guessing an HTPC or dedicated player would be a better experience.


----------



## m0j0

newbies1 said:


> Hey everyone, first post! I have my eye on this projector and I assume it runs Android. Would it be practical to install Plex or Kodi directly on the projector and stream high bitrate 4K content from a local network source or would that overheat the processor? I'm guessing an HTPC or dedicated player would be a better experience.


You will want an htpc or streaming device with this projector.


----------



## Demetri Zuev

newbies1 said:


> Hey everyone, first post! I have my eye on this projector and I assume it runs Android. Would it be practical to install Plex or Kodi directly on the projector and stream high bitrate 4K content from a local network source or would that overheat the processor? I'm guessing an HTPC or dedicated player would be a better experience.


It is generally a bad idea to use any built in software for playback, cause a processor inside the unit will always prioritize its' primary task, which in this case is displaying the image. Get a dedicated unit like Shield Pro, Zidoo or a HTPC


----------



## HCMKII

ACE844 said:


> @spocky12 I also have this issue the volume bar stays on screen for at least 30 secs. Additionally, I noticed the HDMI issue seems to be rearing its head more frequently as well. It happens about every other restart.Is there a way to access error logs to send you to help to troubleshoot?


Idem


----------



## ACE844

HCMKII said:


> Idem


Please explain.


----------



## m0j0

ACE844 said:


> Please explain.


That's French for "same".


----------



## 3sprit

It is Latin: identical, the same


----------



## ProFragger

EDIT: Solved # 1 - Seems like the cable was the issue. 

Two questions for my Vertex2/Arcana/Vroom users and another question for CEC behavior on the device:

1. When I 2 Streamers connected to my Vertex2 (TX0 and 1) using HDMI 0 and 1 (Vertex2), connected to the T1 HDMI 1 and 2 respectively, the HDMI display does not stay on. It keeps turning on and off, like flickering and so on. However, if I force my TX0 to use Input 1, the image is fine.

Any ideas on what this is? Could it be a cable issue (cause I have tried a couple of cables) OR is the Vertex2 not set up right to handle 2 signals at the same time? Appreciate your help.

2. Second question is the CEC behavior, on the T1 for you. I have a Chromecast in HDMI 1 and TiVo 4K Stream in HDMI 2. The T1 remote controls MOST of the things on the Chromecast fine except the Home button (which goes the the T1 home (God I wish I could find a solution to this to use the Streamer's Home)), however the T1 remote controls NOTHING on the TiVo connected to HDMI 2.

Can you guys test this for me if you also have multiple Streamers or devices connected to the T1?

Thank you!


----------



## m0j0

Found some settings I like even better than the last ones. Better reds, good overall and properly saturated colors (all colors at 78 or higher for color clipping and white at 75) good grey scale and white balance, and good black levels. Also good skin tones. Beyond that, really excellent dark scene performance. Just really solid overall. If you have a vrroom/vertex2, you should give these a try.



















Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 49
Contrast: 70
Saturation: 51
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 53
Color: Custom
Red: 763
Green: 917
Blue: 780


----------



## m0j0

Some pictures


----------



## ProFragger

m0j0 said:


> Found some settings I like even better than the last ones. Better reds, good overall and properly saturated colors (all colors at 78 or higher for color clipping and white at 75) good grey scale and white balance, and good black levels. Also good skin tones. Beyond that, really excellent dark scene performance. Just really solid overall. If you have a vrroom/vertex2, you should give these a try.
> 
> View attachment 3283538
> 
> 
> View attachment 3283539
> 
> 
> Image Parameters: Custom
> Brightness: 49
> Contrast: 70
> Saturation: 51
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 53
> Color: Custom
> Red: 763
> Green: 917
> Blue: 780


Thanks @m0j0 for your continued, amazing contributions to this thread. 

Could you check that clip on your LLDV settings, I DM'd you? Curious if you're getting that "bug" or that obvious sore spot with the Sun/Star getting blown up! 😊


----------



## m0j0

ProFragger said:


> Thanks @m0j0 for your continued, amazing contributions to this thread.
> 
> Could you check that clip on your LLDV settings, I DM'd you? Curious if you're getting that "bug" or that obvious sore spot with the Sun/Star getting blown up! 😊


I replied to your conversation. I am not seeing the same behavior as you with the sun being blown out.


----------



## ProFragger

m0j0 said:


> I replied to your conversation. I am not seeing the same behavior as you with the sun being blown out.


Thank you Sir... Back to the DMs... 😊.


----------



## jeff9n

m0j0 said:


> Some pictures



View attachment 3283757



















Here is the photo on my Xiaomi 1S UST under 4K SDR. On your photo, the bicep and upper nose is a bit orangish.


----------



## m0j0

jeff9n said:


> View attachment 3283757
> 
> View attachment 3283781
> 
> 
> View attachment 3283770
> 
> 
> Here is the photo on my Xiaomi 1S UST under 4K SDR. On your photo, the bicep and upper nose is a bit orangish.


Thanks for the feedback. I could probably pull back on saturation and/or tone a bit and sort that out.


----------



## m0j0

Ok, dialed back the saturation to 42 and tone to 52, and also dialed down the red some more (down to 681). Here's the new picture.


----------



## jeff9n

m0j0 said:


> Ok, dialed back the saturation to 42 and tone to 52, and also dialed down the red some more (down to 681). Here's the new picture.


It looks much better now. T1 has very nice black comparing to the older Xiaomi ALDP 3.0 UST.


----------



## m0j0

Received my colorimeter delivery yesterday and ran through a brief run with ccProfiler to get the RGB balanced. I don't really know what I'm doing yet so this is probably not super accurate or even good, but it's better than nothing I suppose. Take it for what it's worth.

Brightness Mode: View Mode
Image Parameters:
Brightness: 49
Contrast: 76
Saturation: 43
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 52
Color: Custom
Red: 972
Green: 862
Blue: 685

Edit: Actually, after the profiler I felt that the picture was a little too dim for me, so I ran the Spears and Munsil disc and upped the contrast quite a bit, as well as a slight bump to saturation. To my eyes, it looked better, but now looking at some pictures, I'm not so sure it was the correct thing to do. Here's the numbers I had right after ccProfiler, so you can try them both:

Brightness Mode: View Mode
Image Parameters:
Brightness: 49
Contrast: 53
Saturation: 42
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 52
Color: Custom
Red: 972
Green: 862
Blue: 685


----------



## ACE844

m0j0 said:


> Received my colorimeter delivery yesterday and ran through a brief run with ccProfiler to get the RGB balanced. I don't really know what I'm doing yet so this is probably not super accurate or even good, but it's better than nothing I suppose. Take it for what it's worth.
> 
> Brightness Mode: View Mode
> Image Parameters:
> Brightness: 49
> Contrast: 76
> Saturation: 43
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 52
> Color: Custom
> Red: 972
> Green: 862
> Blue: 685


Which colorimeter did you wind up choosing? Was it the Idiplay pro 2 2k nit version, which many folks here reccommend?


----------



## m0j0

ACE844 said:


> Which colorimeter did you wind up choosing? Was it the Idiplay pro 2 2k nit version, which many folks here reccommend?


I went with the color checker display pro.


----------



## antjes

Just playing with projectivity and Mediatek settings.
Where is the dynamic contrast option on mediatek settings?


Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> Received my colorimeter delivery yesterday and ran through a brief run with ccProfiler to get the RGB balanced. I don't really know what I'm doing yet so this is probably not super accurate or even good, but it's better than nothing I suppose. Take it for what it's worth.
> 
> Brightness Mode: View Mode
> Image Parameters:
> Brightness: 49
> Contrast: 76
> Saturation: 43
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 52
> Color: Custom
> Red: 972
> Green: 862
> Blue: 685
> 
> Edit: Actually, after the profiler I felt that the picture was a little too dim for me, so I ran the Spears and Munsil disc and upped the contrast quite a bit, as well as a slight bump to saturation. To my eyes, it looked better, but now looking at some pictures, I'm not so sure it was the correct thing to do. Here's the numbers I had right after ccProfiler, so you can try them both:
> 
> Brightness Mode: View Mode
> Image Parameters:
> Brightness: 49
> Contrast: 53
> Saturation: 42
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 52
> Color: Custom
> Red: 972
> Green: 862
> Blue: 685


That's interesting that you actually have red boosted compared to previous decreased. Were you using Projectivy, too?


----------



## m0j0

donw said:


> That's interesting that you actually have red boosted compared to previous decreased. Were you using Projectivy, too?


Yeah, I was surprised by that as well. I do have ProjectIvy installed. I was just doing the high end color stuff. I'm sure the low end is still off though. Will look at that hopefully at some point.


----------



## m0j0

A couple of pics. This is with contrast at the higher number vs. after initial setup with the colorimeter. I may try to set it back down to the lower number and take a few more pictures tonight or some other night to compare.


----------



## HCMKII

m0j0 said:


> I went with the color checker display pro.





m0j0 said:


> I went with the color checker display pro.


The Display Pro probe is not suitable for UST projectors, you need the Display Plus probe!


----------



## m0j0

HCMKII said:


> The Display Pro probe is not suitable for UST projectors, you need the Display Plus probe!


Well that sucks. Thanks for the info! Amazon return powers activate!


----------



## m0j0

I found this info on the plus. Does any of this really apply to UST projectors?

i1Display Pro Plus in addition to i1Display Pro can do:

Accurately measure luminance/brightness levels up to 2000 nits.
Obtain correct neutral detail levels and higher accuracy in dark colours with new black current subtraction technology, especially beneficial on OLED displays or any display that can achieve close to zero black point.
BT.1886 default gamma curve – the standard for HDTV – is especially beneficial for 3D LUT workflows and HDR supported displays.
USB-C compatible with included USB-C to USB-A adapter.


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> A couple of pics. This is with contrast at the higher number vs. after initial setup with the colorimeter. I may try to set it back down to the lower number and take a few more pictures tonight or some other night to compare.


No offense but I think you’ve tinkered enough with the settings to a point of diminishing returns. I’ll take your original pics early on in this thread any day over these. It seems you’ve been able to introduce gas or haze into this set. Maybe it’s the camera or maybe its the content but these pics are far inferior to my eyes. You’re certainly not a “set it and forget it” type of guy. Certainly your prerogative but I was happy many moons ago with your earlier settings.


----------



## Brajesh

Tinkering can be fun (and addictive), but for me, not when it comes to displays really. I like to adjust my TV/projector settings, and mostly leave them be. Have little time as it is, may as well spend time actually enjoying movies/shows.

@m0j0, I think the most impressive details I've seen from what you've shared are these from a while back. The 2nd photo of the Elven queen's face with the freckles. Overall, colors are a bit over-saturated, but you were on to something special there on details.


----------



## humax

Проектор Fengmi T1 от Xiaomi - YouTube 

T1 unboxing and menus.

You will need auto-translate.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Brajesh said:


> Tinkering can be fun (and addictive), but for me, not when it comes to displays really. I like to adjust my TV/projector settings, and mostly leave them be. Have little time as it is, may as well spend time actually enjoying movies/shows.
> 
> @m0j0, I think the most impressive details I've seen from what you've shared are these from a while back. The 2nd photo of the Elven queen's face with the freckles. Overall, colors are a bit over-saturated, but you were on to something special there on details.


Loved the clarity, colors and black level on these shots. Absolutely gorgeous IMHO. Maybe not 100% accurate but some spectacular eye candy.


----------



## clipghost

Ricoflashback said:


> No offense but I think you’ve tinkered enough with the settings to a point of diminishing returns. I’ll take your original pics early on in this thread any day over these. It seems you’ve been able to introduce gas or haze into this set. Maybe it’s the camera or maybe its the content but these pics are far inferior to my eyes. You’re certainly not a “set it and forget it” type of guy. Certainly your prerogative but I was happy many moons ago with your earlier settings.





Brajesh said:


> Tinkering can be fun (and addictive), but for me, not when it comes to displays really. I like to adjust my TV/projector settings, and mostly leave them be. Have little time as it is, may as well spend time actually enjoying movies/shows.
> 
> @m0j0, I think the most impressive details I've seen from what you've shared are these from a while back. The 2nd photo of the Elven queen's face with the freckles. Overall, colors are a bit over-saturated, but you were on to something special there on details.


I 100% agree with these two posters. Your recent pics M0j0 make me reconsider getting this projector. But the initial ones always looked better. Sometimes colors are oversaturated but other than that was not bad. These latest ones look fuzzy?


----------



## rjyap

HCMKII said:


> The Display Pro probe is not suitable for UST projectors, you need the Display Plus probe!


As far as I know, no colorimeter can accurately measure tri-laser projector as there’s no generic EDR for tri-laser projector yet. Only way to be accurate is to profile the meter against an accurate spectrometer that can read <5nm wavelength due to narrow bandwidth of the laser.


----------



## m0j0

Brajesh said:


> Tinkering can be fun (and addictive), but for me, not when it comes to displays really. I like to adjust my TV/projector settings, and mostly leave them be. Have little time as it is, may as well spend time actually enjoying movies/shows.
> 
> @m0j0, I think the most impressive details I've seen from what you've shared are these from a while back. The 2nd photo of the Elven queen's face with the freckles. Overall, colors are a bit over-saturated, but you were on to something special there on details.


Ah yes, the massive freckles and the hairy arms, I remember. Haven't tried any 4,000 nit settings lately. Maybe I will swing back around.


----------



## DesertDog

Ok, odd ball question time for those of you with a T1. If you were to lay a piece a 3/4" plywood on the top of it right at the front, how far can that piece be pulled back over the top of the unit before it interferes with the projection? Can say the first 2" have something on it? More, less? 

I don't have my unit yet but I'm working on building a console table to hold it and my screen. I'm still in the design phase. Right now my plan is to have a pull out drawer like a keyboard tray that gets pulled out during use to get the proper distance from the screen. I was going to have an open top for the area where it sits but was toying with the idea of having a top to cover the PJ when not in use. I need to have it pull out 12" to get the proper throw and since the unit is 13.75" deep so I'm curious if I can have the first 2 inches or so still under the table top.

It also won't be 3/4" ply actually sitting on it. That's just an easy test since it's about the same size as the gap that it'll have. For the actual top I'm thinking of just using some cheap 1/8 or 1/4" hard board and then upholster the top in black velvet so that there's no reflections.


----------



## rooterha

Ricoflashback said:


> No offense but I think you’ve tinkered enough with the settings to a point of diminishing returns. I’ll take your original pics early on in this thread any day over these. It seems you’ve been able to introduce gas or haze into this set. Maybe it’s the camera or maybe its the content but these pics are far inferior to my eyes. You’re certainly not a “set it and forget it” type of guy. Certainly your prerogative but I was happy many moons ago with your earlier settings.


Agreed - every one I've tried recently has been worse and worse.


----------



## ProFragger

Brajesh said:


> Tinkering can be fun (and addictive), but for me, not when it comes to displays really. I like to adjust my TV/projector settings, and mostly leave them be. Have little time as it is, may as well spend time actually enjoying movies/shows.
> 
> @m0j0, I think the most impressive details I've seen from what you've shared are these from a while back. The 2nd photo of the Elven queen's face with the freckles. Overall, colors are a bit over-saturated, but you were on to something special there on details.


@m0j0 - do you remember the accompanying Vroom/Vertex2 settings for these? I'm sure the RGB values were different from you posted, last week I believe, before the colorometer... 

Thank you for sharing all of your tinkering results!


----------



## HCMKII

m0j0 said:


> I found this info on the plus. Does any of this really apply to UST projectors?
> 
> i1Display Pro Plus in addition to i1Display Pro can do:
> 
> Accurately measure luminance/brightness levels up to 2000 nits.
> Obtain correct neutral detail levels and higher accuracy in dark colours with new black current subtraction technology, especially beneficial on OLED displays or any display that can achieve close to zero black point.
> BT.1886 default gamma curve – the standard for HDTV – is especially beneficial for 3D LUT workflows and HDR supported displays.
> USB-C compatible with included USB-C to USB-A adapter.


Hi, 
Formovie T1 3800 lumens ansi. 3400 mesured.
My screen gain 0,5
The probe 2000 nits max.
Connect the probe to the projector (usb). Select the projector menu(probe software).
Measure ambient light in cd/m2. 
Measure the black dot with the patch
Test with projectivy and modes user/ Dolbyvision vivid ( Daylight/dark room)

Align the RGB curves. 

Results for me: 
R 890 G 952 B 794 Probe

Contrast 50 Brightness 50 pattern ( confirmed Blu-ray Dysney Woo projector test mode )

Saturation 48 Tone 56 checked with a blue filter ( confirmed Blu-ray Dysney Woo projector test mode )


----------



## HCMKII

HCMKII said:


> Hi,
> Formovie T1 3800 lumens ansi. 3400 mesured.
> My screen gain 0,5
> The probe 2000 nits max.
> Connect the probe to the projector (usb). Select the projector menu(probe software).
> Measure ambient light in cd/m2.
> Measure the black dot with the patch
> Test with projectivy and modes user/ Dolbyvision vivid ( Daylight/dark room)
> 
> Align the RGB curves.
> 
> Results for me:
> R 890 G 952 B 794 Probe
> 
> Contrast 50 Brightness 50 pattern ( confirmed Blu-ray Dysney Woo projector test mode )
> 
> Saturation 48 Tone 56 checked with a blue filter ( confirmed Blu-ray Dysney Woo projector test mode )


I didn't find this test in English version but it must exist on the xrite site. I leave you the link on the page in French. Very interesting.
Try this test : Le défi de la couleur X-Rite et le test Hue


----------



## HCMKII

m0j0 said:


> A couple of pics. This is with contrast at the higher number vs. after initial setup with the colorimeter. I may try to set it back down to the lower number and take a few more pictures tonight or some other night to compare.


What could be interesting is that knowing the episode, the timing you use for your shots on Netflix. Do you use Disney, premium video to also compare for example.


----------



## uice

rjyap said:


> As far as I know, no colorimeter can accurately measure tri-laser projector as there’s no generic EDR for tri-laser projector yet. Only way to be accurate is to profile the meter against an accurate spectrometer that can read <5nm wavelength due to narrow bandwidth of the laser.


I asked directly to x-rite technician about it. 
They told me lot of technical details that I instantly forgot. But in short, i1 display plus is okay just for home use RGB laser projector.(not for industrial use). IIRC there are no EDR for colorimeter use, also enduser can not edit profile.


----------



## m0j0

ProFragger said:


> @m0j0 - do you remember the accompanying Vroom/Vertex2 settings for these? I'm sure the RGB values were different from you posted, last week I believe, before the colorometer...
> 
> Thank you for sharing all of your tinkering results!


These are the settings from that previous setup:

HDR tab
Max Lum: 4000
Min Lum: 0.005
MaxCLL: 1000
MaxFALL: 400

DV tab
Red Primary X: 0.708
Red Primary Y: 0.292
Green Primary X: 0.170
Green Primary Y: 0.797
Blue Primary X: 0.152
Blue Primary Y: 0.031
Max Luminance: 4000
Min Luminance: 0

View Mode Brightness
Custom Settings:
Brightness: 49
Contrast: 48
Saturation: 48
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 52
Color: Custom
Red: 903
Green: 952
Blue: 872

Edit: There is some crushing of white highlights at 4,000 nits, which mostly go away below 2-3k.


----------



## m0j0

New settings from last night

HDR tab
Max Lum: 10000
Min Lum: 0.005
MaxCLL: 1000
MaxFALL: 400

DV tab
Red Primary X: 0.708
Red Primary Y: 0.292
Green Primary X: 0.170
Green Primary Y: 0.797
Blue Primary X: 0.152
Blue Primary Y: 0.031
Max Luminance: 550
Min Luminance: 0

View Mode Brightness
Custom Settings:
Brightness: 49
Contrast: 54
Saturation: 49
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 52
Color: Custom
Red: 972
Green: 862
Blue: 685


----------



## zoomx2

HCMKII said:


> Hi,
> Formovie T1 3800 lumens ansi. 3400 mesured.
> My screen gain 0,5
> The probe 2000 nits max.
> Connect the probe to the projector (usb). Select the projector menu(probe software).
> Measure ambient light in cd/m2.
> Measure the black dot with the patch
> Test with projectivy and modes user/ Dolbyvision vivid ( Daylight/dark room)
> 
> Align the RGB curves.
> 
> Results for me:
> R 890 G 952 B 794 Probe
> 
> Contrast 50 Brightness 50 pattern ( confirmed Blu-ray Dysney Woo projector test mode )
> 
> Saturation 48 Tone 56 checked with a blue filter ( confirmed Blu-ray Dysney Woo projector test mode )


Tried your setting too warm, lost the wow factor thank you anyway.


----------



## ProFragger

Interesting bug today.. I didn't change anything overnight, but turned on the T1 to Image settings completely reset. Not sure if others have every seen this?


----------



## ProFragger

m0j0 said:


> These are the settings from that previous setup:
> 
> HDR tab
> Max Lum: 4000
> Min Lum: 0.005
> MaxCLL: 1000
> MaxFALL: 400
> 
> DV tab
> Red Primary X: 0.708
> Red Primary Y: 0.292
> Green Primary X: 0.170
> Green Primary Y: 0.797
> Blue Primary X: 0.152
> Blue Primary Y: 0.031
> Max Luminance: 4000
> Min Luminance: 0
> 
> View Mode Brightness
> Custom Settings:
> Brightness: 49
> Contrast: 48
> Saturation: 48
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 52
> Color: Custom
> Red: 903
> Green: 952
> Blue: 872
> 
> Edit: There is some crushing of white highlights at 4,000 nits, which mostly go away below 2-3k.


Thanks m0j0! These are settings where people praised details and pop?


----------



## m0j0

ProFragger said:


> Thanks m0j0! These are settings where people praised details and pop?


Different people have different opinions on which pictures and settings they liked the best. This one did have a lot of detail in some pictures, but I found it to be too hot and had white crush in some scenes so it wasn't without trade offs. Others liked settings I had in early May and others still further back. I posted a lot of settings and pictures so it's really up to people to test and see what they like best. The new settings I posted are really good in my opinion,so I would definitely recommend testing those.


----------



## kraine

HCMKII said:


> Hi,
> Formovie T1 3800 lumens ansi. 3400 mesured.


3800 lumens ??? 

It is an exceptional example, I am sorry but there must be a problem with your measurements even the manufacturer does not announce such a level of brightness.


----------



## HCMKII

kraine said:


> 3800 lumens ???
> 
> It is an exceptional example, I am sorry but there must be a problem with your measurements even the manufacturer does not announce such a level of brightness.


You are right. It's 2400 lumens. These were the basic values I recalled. My fingers slipped on the keyboard.


----------



## spocky12

ACE844 said:


> @spocky12 I also have this issue the volume bar stays on screen for at least 30 secs. Additionally, I noticed the HDMI issue seems to be rearing its head more frequently as well. It happens about every other restart.Is there a way to access error logs to send you to help to troubleshoot?





HCMKII said:


> Idem


Thanks for your feedback. There's no simple way of getting logs on Android tv. You need to connect your device to a computer with ADB and launch the command "adb logcat" (the connection can be done remotely, check the tutorial on the XDA thread to disable the stock launcher, which uses adb too).

I can't reproduce what you both experience :

volume bar displaying for 30s (the only explanation I see is the system getting the volume button "pressed" event but not the "released" one. Are you sure you didn't install something like button mapper, that might also interfere with key events ?).
HDMI handshake more frequent (I see no reason Projectivy would affect this. As for me, I had this problem on each boot with firmware 1.x, I only experienced it twice since updating to 2.0)

I can confirm the "volume repeat event while pressed" not working when the accessibility service is enabled, though.
I hoped this was a bug in Projectivy code, but unfortunately that's a FengOs issue : as long as an accessibility service listening to key events is enabled (Projectivy, button mapper...), this prevents the volume repeat event to occur, forcing users to hammer the volume button in order to change it. This explains why uninstalling Projectivy did not fix your issue a few days ago : you probably also had button mapper enabled, which causes the same behavior.
Unfortunately, this bug extends a little further than that : not only does this kill the volume repeat event, but the accessibility service never gets any event related to volume key press (unlike any other button). This makes me unable to work around it by manually sending multiple volume events while the button is pressed.
I've filed a bug to Fengmi. They never heard of it (not really surprising) and require "more details or a video to better understand the problem"


----------



## ACE844

@spocky12 
If I press the volume up or down 1X and set the remote down I can then do a 33 sec count and then the volume level diplay and opaque overlay finally disappears. 
I'm on Feng OS 2 latest public update available and every other time I power on the device I need to manually select HDMI 2.1.
I also have noticed that the unit is not always recognizing the active HDMI source (goes through a 15 sec countdown and times out) and that it requires use of the shield remote to manually select the source. This however I suspect maybe related to athe known shield pro CEC bug issue they have.


----------



## spocky12

ACE844 said:


> @spocky12
> If I press the volume up or down 1X and set the remote down I can then do a 33 sec count and then the volume level diplay and opaque overlay finally disappears.
> I'm on Feng OS 2 latest public update available and every other time I power on the device I need to manually select HDMI 2.1.
> I also have noticed that the unit is not always recognizing the active HDMI source (goes through a 15 sec countdown and times out) and that it requires use of the shield remote to manually select the source. This however I suspect maybe related to athe known shield pro CEC bug issue they have.


My bad, you're right about the volume display level timeout, which is longer with the accessibility service enabled (20s) than without it (3s).
Don't know how I didn't notice it before. I've just found the culprit. Bug squashed , thank you !


----------



## ProFragger

spocky12 said:


> Thanks for your feedback. There's no simple way of getting logs on Android tv. You need to connect your device to a computer with ADB and launch the command "adb logcat" (the connection can be done remotely, check the tutorial on the XDA thread to disable the stock launcher, which uses adb too).
> 
> I can't reproduce what you both experience :
> 
> volume bar displaying for 30s (the only explanation I see is the system getting the volume button "pressed" event but not the "released" one. Are you sure you didn't install something like button mapper, that might also interfere with key events ?).
> HDMI handshake more frequent (I see no reason Projectivy would affect this. As for me, I had this problem on each boot with firmware 1.x, I only experienced it twice since updating to 2.0)
> 
> I can confirm the "volume repeat event while pressed" not working when the accessibility service is enabled, though.
> I hoped this was a bug in Projectivy code, but unfortunately that's a FengOs issue : as long as an accessibility service listening to key events is enabled (Projectivy, button mapper...), this prevents the volume repeat event to occur, forcing users to hammer the volume button in order to change it. This explains why uninstalling Projectivy did not fix your issue a few days ago : you probably also had button mapper enabled, which causes the same behavior.
> Unfortunately, this bug extends a little further than that : not only does this kill the volume repeat event, but the accessibility service never gets any event related to volume key press (unlike any other button). This makes me unable to work around it by manually sending multiple volume events while the button is pressed.
> I've filed a bug to Fengmi. They never heard of it (not really surprising) and require "more details or a video to better understand the problem"



You are correct, my friend. Essentially as soon as Accessibility is on, the volume repeat event does not fire... So... Loads of limitation here I understand. Do you plan to send Fengmi logs of this issue?

Since we're on the topic of events, I wanted your thoughts on something. Most of us are using an external Streamer with the projector to navigate. This leads most of to having 2 remotes because if you use the T1 remote to control your Streamer, and press the Home button (sometimes necessary) it triggers the Home for the T1.

In theory, do you know if there is technical way to intercept this Home command from CEC to T1 and replace it with the Home button of a the Streamer that's being displayed?

I really can't "concept" my way out of this without a super fancy universal remote like a Harmony. If you think of any ideas, please do share 😊.

Appreciate all your hard work!


----------



## Ricoflashback

ProFragger said:


> You are correct, my friend. Essentially as soon as Accessibility is on, the volume repeat event does not fire... So... Loads of limitation here I understand. Do you plan to send Fengmi logs of this issue?
> 
> Since we're on the topic of events, I wanted your thoughts on something. Most of us are using an external Streamer with the projector to navigate. This leads most of to having 2 remotes because if you use the T1 remote to control your Streamer, and press the Home button (sometimes necessary) it triggers the Home for the T1.
> 
> In theory, do you know if there is technical way to intercept this Home command from CEC to T1 and replace it with the Home button of a the Streamer that's being displayed?
> 
> I really can't "concept" my way out of this without a super fancy universal remote like a Harmony. If you think of any ideas, please do share 😊.
> 
> Appreciate all your hard work!


He who has the most remotes win. I’ve tried all sorts of solutions including multiple Harmony remotes. I ended up getting a remote caddy holder and just living with all of them. Not the answer you want to hear but I don’t think there is a silver bullet. When I watch Comcast cable - I use their backlit remote. For streaming - it’s the Nvidia Shield Pro with its backlit remote. To change AVR inputs - it’s my Denon remote, which is the only one that isn’t backlit. I rarely watch Blu-ray Discs but if I do, it’s my OPPO remote. Whoops - that one ain’t backlit either. After a while, trying to program the Harmony remotes to work flawlessly with all my components became an exercise in futility.


----------



## ProFragger

Ricoflashback said:


> He who has the most remotes win. I’ve tried all sorts of solutions including multiple Harmony remotes. I ended up getting a remote caddy holder and just living with all of them. Not the answer you want to hear but I don’t think there is a silver bullet. When I watch Comcast cable - I use their backlit remote. For streaming - it’s the Nvidia Shield Pro with its backlit remote. To change AVR inputs - it’s my Denon remote, which is the only one that isn’t backlit. I rarely watch Blu-ray Discs but if I do, it’s my OPPO remote. Whoops - that one ain’t backlit either. After a while, trying to program the Harmony remotes to work flawlessly with all my components became an exercise in futility.


Thank you for sharing. I can honestly say this is the most honest response I've heard, simply because I'm carrying the remote caddy myself! 🤣

No perfect streamer, no perfect remote. 😭

I got so weak in the knees today that I wondered, if the right move was to buy the Global version? True it has less storage and RAM, but... How much could that really affect your experience with the convenience of US warranty support, CMS, Chromecasting, no remote switching and language troubles all over the system haha!

Just a moment of honesty, I guess... Thanks for sharing your experience!


----------



## zaselim

Hello everyone, 
I have a question, is there anyone who is using 120" screen with T1? If so, what is the exact height of your table or stand where T1 is sitting on?
Thanks.


----------



## lattiboy

ProFragger said:


> Thank you for sharing. I can honestly say this is the most honest response I've heard, simply because I'm carrying the remote caddy myself! 🤣
> 
> No perfect streamer, no perfect remote. 😭
> 
> I got so weak in the knees today that I wondered, if the right move was to buy the Global version? True it has less storage and RAM, but... How much could that really affect your experience with the convenience of US warranty support, CMS, Chromecasting, no remote switching and language troubles all over the system haha!
> 
> Just a moment of honesty, I guess... Thanks for sharing your experience!


The AppleTV 4K (new version) does everything perfectly except input changes and full shutdown (it puts the PJ to “screen off”). Had zero issues in the two months I’ve been using it. Controls the soundbar volume perfectly through the eARC port.


----------



## Ricoflashback

lattiboy said:


> The AppleTV 4K (new version) does everything perfectly except input changes and full shutdown (it puts the PJ to “screen off”). Had zero issues in the two months I’ve been using it. Controls the soundbar volume perfectly through the eARC port.


I enjoy Apple TV but I could never get used to the Apple remote. And it’s not backlit which is a PITA in a darkened room. Maybe it only happened to me but I had multiple subscriptions to various streaming services that I could not add to the Apple streamer. It forced me to subscribe via Apple channels. There is no right or wrong answer, here. It’s what works for you. That being said, the Nvidia Shield Pro is the sleekest and easiest backlit remote that I’ve ever used.


----------



## xrayg1971

Ricoflashback said:


> He who has the most remotes win. I’ve tried all sorts of solutions including multiple Harmony remotes. I ended up getting a remote caddy holder and just living with all of them. Not the answer you want to hear but I don’t think there is a silver bullet. When I watch Comcast cable - I use their backlit remote. For streaming - it’s the Nvidia Shield Pro with its backlit remote. To change AVR inputs - it’s my Denon remote, which is the only one that isn’t backlit. I rarely watch Blu-ray Discs but if I do, it’s my OPPO remote. Whoops - that one ain’t backlit either. After a while, trying to program the Harmony remotes to work flawlessly with all my components became an exercise in futility.


i can concur here with rico ... i have the harmony and its not perfect ... w the t1 and multiple inputs ( sheild and altice cable box) the best i was able to do was have 1 programming setting for turning everything on and then just use the t1 remote to change from Hdmi 1 and 2 ..
with this setup it turns on and off with no issues .. i use the harmony remote to control the altice box and the shied remote for its own ... and the t1 for switching inputs 

I also have an Onkyo AVR that i WAS switching everything through but for some reason i was getting really bad HDMI feedback with he sound from all the inputs ... ( i bought new hdmi cables, changed inputs , changed settings , nada ) so i decided to hook up the shield and altice box direct to the t1 then run optical audio to the onkyo and it works like a charm no feedback at all ..


----------



## donw

lattiboy said:


> The AppleTV 4K (new version) does everything perfectly except input changes and full shutdown (it puts the PJ to “screen off”). Had zero issues in the two months I’ve been using it. Controls the soundbar volume perfectly through the eARC port.


Yeah, I was hoping to get the T1 to turn on and off with HDMI input (from my Onkyo RZ50), but it only goes into screen off mode, with the fan still sucking air through the T1. That mode seems pretty useless to me--not even sure why they provide it. Who wants to leave the T1 sucking air and dust through it. The power doesn't even go low enough to raise my powered screen. I have a power sensing device that the T1 is plugged into that when the projector is turned on or off, raises or lowers my screen. At least that's one less remote I have to use!


----------



## DesertDog

Ricoflashback said:


> I enjoy Apple TV but I could never get used to the Apple remote. And it’s not backlit which is a PITA in a darkened room. Maybe it only happened to me but I had multiple subscriptions to various streaming services that I could not add to the Apple streamer. It forced me to subscribe via Apple channels. There is no right or wrong answer, here. It’s what works for you. That being said, the Nvidia Shield Pro is the sleekest and easiest backlit remote that I’ve ever used.


I know I'm in the minority here but I like the ATV remote (the 4k one, not the latest since I don't have one yet). The lack of backlight doesn't bother me since there's only a few buttons on it. Muscle memory kicked in fast. Them adding the raised ring around one of the buttons for the 4K model made the difference for me since that solved my "picking it up backwards" problem. 

Then there's one big thing that I think they knocked it out of the park with and that's the touch pad. I'd really like to see it in other remotes. It's so much nicer for scrubbing a video than the arrow keys on the remotes for my Shield, Z9X, TV, etc. I almost dread doing it with other remotes now.


----------



## ProFragger

lattiboy said:


> The AppleTV 4K (new version) does everything perfectly except input changes and full shutdown (it puts the PJ to “screen off”). Had zero issues in the two months I’ve been using it. Controls the soundbar volume perfectly through the eARC port.


Thanks @lattiboy. Do you think we can all report this issue to Fengmi about projector not shutting down with the power button of the connected Streamers? I'll do my part and report/request it.

When you say your volume works, you must have an audio device like a sound bar or a receiver controlling external speakers?

Thanks!


----------



## abaintor

xrayg1971 said:


> i can concur here with rico ... i have the harmony and its not perfect ... w the t1 and multiple inputs ( sheild and altice cable box) the best i was able to do was have 1 programming setting for turning everything on and then just use the t1 remote to change from Hdmi 1 and 2 ..
> with this setup it turns on and off with no issues .. i use the harmony remote to control the altice box and the shied remote for its own ... and the t1 for switching inputs
> 
> I also have an Onkyo AVR that i WAS switching everything through but for some reason i was getting really bad HDMI feedback with he sound from all the inputs ... ( i bought new hdmi cables, changed inputs , changed settings , nada ) so i decided to hook up the shield and altice box direct to the t1 then run optical audio to the onkyo and it works like a charm no feedback at all ..


Now that Harmony is dead I can recommend you a very similar option : Sofabaton T1. It has IR and bluetooth support and you can set up activities as the harmony.
I have a xiaomi but it operates the same : I just need the original projector remote to turn it on sometimes (nvidia shield can turn it on with HDMI CEC but not all my devices can do that), I have set up the projector to boot on the HDMI1 input, otherwise depending on selected activity the Sofabaton T1 will select the right input from the receiver and turn the device on (shield, bluray player...).


----------



## abaintor

Hi, is it possible to have a summary of the latest evolutions of the T1 firmware ?
Is it still necessary to have a hdfury to tweak the dolby vision stream, also I saw that M0j0 you own a vrroom now whereas you had a vertex2 before, why this change ?
Is static HDR10 still badly handled against dolby vision ?
Is MEMC still disabled in dolby vision ? => edit : seems to work with a trick ?
And what are the benefits or drawbacks of the international version ? ==> edit : read from previous pages that global version is slightly better with CMS and contrast

Thank you


----------



## dami1337

Dolby Vision has still too much red.


----------



## esegan

I understand that not everyone needs precise color settings in the android menu of T2? Has anyone asked in technical support how to find the exact image settings in android?
Perhaps it is possible for T1 to call all the settings of the hidden android, via ADB with a special command from the computer.
Недавно я получил проектор 4K dangbey mars pro. Я не мог попасть в меню android через приложение, как в X3, так как программисты прошивки скрыли доступ к меню android. Но я написал в сервис и они написали мне инструкции о том, как активировать режим разработчика и ADB на проекторе и как вызвать скрытое меню Android с настройками через ADB и команду (adb shell am start com.android.tv.settings/.MainSettingsc) с компьютера. Для управления ADB я использовал программу (ADBAppControl). Теперь я могу вызвать настройки Android и точно настроить проектор.
Я удивлен, что на форуме собралось много людей со всего мира, есть даже разработчик лаунчера и никто не хочет попасть в настройки изображения в android. Я один смог найти 2 способа добраться до настроек изображения в Android, и вас много. dangbey mars pro и t1 используют одну и ту же операционную систему Android 9, и многие файлы прошивки должны быть одинаковыми.


----------



## mcusman2012

Setting up these via eArc port. Zidoo>bar>C2. Anyone having similar setup who can guide where the 8kvrroom will be placed and sound bar will be before or after the vrroom?


----------



## erpuma

esegan said:


> I understand that not everyone needs precise color settings in the android menu of T2? Has anyone asked in technical support how to find the exact image settings in android?
> Perhaps it is possible for T1 to call all the settings of the hidden android, via ADB with a special command from the computer.
> I recently got a 4K dangbey mars pro projector. I couldn't get into the android menu through the app like in X3 as the firmware programmers have hidden access to the android menu. But I wrote to the service and they wrote me instructions on how to activate the developer mode and ADB on the projector and how to call the Android hidden menu with settings through ADB and the command (adb shell am start com.android.tv.settings/.MainSettingsc) with computer. To control ADB, I used a program (ADBAppControl). Now I can bring up the Android settings and fine-tune the projector.
> I'm surprised that a lot of people from all over the world have gathered on the forum, there is even a launcher developer and no one wants to get into the image settings in android. I alone have been able to find 2 ways to get to image settings in Android, and there are many of you. dangbey mars pro and t1 use the same Android 9 operating system, and many firmware files must be the same.
> View attachment 3286127
> View attachment 3286128
> View attachment 3286129


----------



## ProFragger

Wow, interesting find. Do you think these are the same settings they put into the Global version of the T1?


----------



## ProFragger

Anyone using a sound bar with a Vertex2, Vroom or etc? Can someone please explain your physical connections and settings in the T1 for a successful output? I'm not getting a sound. 

I have Sound bar HDMI Out going to INPUT 3 on the Vertex2. Then an HDMI cable from Vertex2 eARC slot to the T1 HDMI 3 (which says eARC)... Is this right? 

Thanks for any help!


----------



## ProFragger

mcusman2012 said:


> View attachment 3286351
> Setting up these via eArc port. Zidoo>bar>C2. Anyone having similar setup who can guide where the 8kvrroom will be placed and sound bar will be before or after the vrroom?


Similar question I asked as well... Hope someone helps... Cannot get sound out of the Vertex2.


----------



## mcusman2012

ProFragger said:


> Similar question I asked as well... Hope someone helps... Cannot get sound out of the Vertex2.


I managed to get eARC working with zidoo z10pro and getting ATMOS on sony HTA7000 perfectly. 8kvroom is still on way. Will get in 2 days and then let you know. Currently ATMOS and all sounds working perfectly with these steps.
1. Zidoo z10pro(source set to send raw audio) connected to HDMI IN 1 of SOUNDBAR
2. eARC port of sound bar then connected to eARC port of projector.
3. Turn on all devices
4. Take projector remote and switch to eARC HDMI port of projector. It will then display the soundbar interface/software.
5. Then use soundbar remote and select HDMI 1 IN of sound bar. And thats it. 
Actually to summarise the source/BD player/HTPC is not directly connected to projector. It goes to soundbar. And from soundbar it then goes to PJ. 
I already have Vertex connected to UHD51. But still not have tried that on new PJ. Will try tonight. Its settings/layout is bit different. What is your source/soundbar model? It supports eARC?


----------



## m0j0

Recent settings if anyone is interested:

HDFury tab settings:
HDR tab
Max Lum: 10000
Min Lum: 0.005
MaxCLL: 1000
MaxFALL: 400

DV tab
Red Primary X: 0.708
Red Primary Y: 0.292
Green Primary X: 0.170
Green Primary Y: 0.797
Blue Primary X: 0.152
Blue Primary Y: 0.031
Max Luminance: 550
Min Luminance: 0

T1 settings:
Brightness Mode: View Mode
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 49
Contrast: 54
Saturation: 48
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 52
Color: Custom
Red: 1011
Green: 1012
Blue: 835


----------



## antjes

m0j0 said:


> Recent settings if anyone is interested:
> 
> HDFury tab settings:
> HDR tab
> Max Lum: 10000
> Min Lum: 0.005
> MaxCLL: 1000
> MaxFALL: 400
> 
> DV tab
> Red Primary X: 0.708
> Red Primary Y: 0.292
> Green Primary X: 0.170
> Green Primary Y: 0.797
> Blue Primary X: 0.152
> Blue Primary Y: 0.031
> Max Luminance: 550
> Min Luminance: 0
> 
> W/B Adjust in ProjectIvy:
> Source: HDMI1
> Picture Mode: User
> Color Temperature: User
> Adjust Video/UI: Adjust Video
> R Gain: 1015
> G Gain: 1030
> B Gain: 1017
> R Offset: 965
> G Offset: 1003
> B Offset: 1011
> 
> T1 settings:
> Brightness Mode: View Mode
> Image Parameters: Custom
> Brightness: 49
> Contrast: 54
> Saturation: 48
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 52
> Color: Custom
> Red: 1011
> Green: 1012
> Blue: 835


m0j0, 
W/B adjust in projectivity does not have any effect in FengOs original service.
Then, these pictures are coming from internal TV view in projectivity or original system.
Ps: thanks for your effort...

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## m0j0

antjes said:


> m0j0,
> W/B adjust in projectivity does not have any effect in FengOs original service.
> Then, these pictures are coming from internal TV view in projectivity or original system.
> Ps: thanks for your effort...
> 
> Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


Why would you think the W/B adjust has no effect? The pictures are not taken inside projectivy. They are taken on the T1 with Netflix app on the Roku Ultra via HDFury Vrroom.


----------



## antjes

m0j0 said:


> Why would you think the W/B adjust has no effect? The pictures are not taken inside projectivy. They are taken on the T1 with Netflix app on the Roku Ultra via HDFury Vrroom.


If you want to use W/B adjust you must go to projectivity, enter in projectivity Launcher settings, then input option and click prefer internal TV box.
Then in projectivity app choose input and now W/B adjust is working.
If you select HDMI input through FengOs you are not using internal TV view so W/B adjust is not working.
That is the reason of my question because It is a nonsense, one picture two setups, but which one are you using?
In summary....how you select your HDMI input?
1. FengOs? 
2. Projectivity? With internal TV box ticked?

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## antjes

ViruZZZ said:


> The global version is already on sale. It is interesting to see the difference between the Chinese version and finally make a choice.
> View attachment 3286649


Still announcing HDR10+ compatibility....and FengOs.
We will see the price......

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## m0j0

antjes said:


> If you want to use W/B adjust you must go to projectivity, enter in projectivity Launcher settings, then input option and click prefer internal TV box.
> Then in projectivity app choose input and now W/B adjust is working.
> If you select HDMI input through FengOs you are not using internal TV view so W/B adjust is not working.
> That is the reason of my question because It is a nonsense, one picture two setups, but which one are you using?
> In summary....how you select your HDMI input?
> 1. FengOs?
> 2. Projectivity? With internal TV box ticked?
> 
> Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


Just checked and no, I did not have that box checked, so it looks like those settings were not in effect as you say. Thanks for the info! I will now have to play with it some more!


----------



## ViruZZZ

esegan said:


> I understand that not everyone needs precise color settings in the android menu of T2? Has anyone asked in technical support how to find the exact image settings in android?
> Perhaps it is possible for T1 to call all the settings of the hidden android, via ADB with a special command from the computer.
> Недавно я получил проектор 4K dangbey mars pro. Я не мог попасть в меню android через приложение, как в X3, так как программисты прошивки скрыли доступ к меню android. Но я написал в сервис и они написали мне инструкции о том, как активировать режим разработчика и ADB на проекторе и как вызвать скрытое меню Android с настройками через ADB и команду (adb shell am start com.android.tv.settings/.MainSettingsc) с компьютера. Для управления ADB я использовал программу (ADBAppControl). Теперь я могу вызвать настройки Android и точно настроить проектор.
> Я удивлен, что на форуме собралось много людей со всего мира, есть даже разработчик лаунчера и никто не хочет попасть в настройки изображения в android. Я один смог найти 2 способа добраться до настроек изображения в Android, и вас много. dangbey mars pro и t1 используют одну и ту же операционную систему Android 9, и многие файлы прошивки должны быть одинаковыми.
> View attachment 3286127
> View attachment 3286128
> View attachment 3286129


Has anyone already tried to go into the hidden settings of android on t1 through adb? I wonder if it will be possible to get good colors for 11 points similar to vrroom?


----------



## ViruZZZ

antjes said:


> Still announcing HDR10+ compatibility....and FengOs.
> We will see the price......
> 
> Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


Price $2999 on Aliexpress


----------



## antjes

ViruZZZ said:


> Price $2999 on Aliexpress


$3600 to Europe.
Any case, not the best option AliExpress in my experience. Should arrive cheaper through other sellers.

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## antjes

ViruZZZ said:


> Has anyone already tried to go into the hidden settings of android on t1 through adb? I wonder if it will be possible to get good colors for 11 points similar to vrroom?


It would be great to access via adb to Android settings.

By now I'm pretty Happy with projectivity tweaking, I'm gonna return my arcana, after 3 week testing I can get very similar results using Oppo as a player + projectivity
Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## ProjectionHead

It's here! The Formovie Theater - the Global Version of the Fengmi T1:









Formovie Theater - Enhanced Global / International...


The new "Formovie Theater" a.k.a the Global Fengmi T1 has now been launched. https://www.projectorscreen.com/formovie-theater-ultra-short-throw-projector-2800-lumen-triple-laser-ust-fengmi-t1.html This is expected to be landing here in the USA mid-late June. This new enhanced model comes with...




www.avsforum.com













Introducing the new Formovie Theater - International /...


** 6/30/22 - Our review by @Dave Harper is live: Formovie Theater UST Projector Review (Global Version of Fengmi T1) We are now taking pre-orders for the new Formovie Theater - the Global Version of the Fengmi T1 and are expecting our first shipment to land here in the USA mid-late June...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## ViruZZZ

*@m0j0*
Will you open the white balance settings menu by 11 points using adb? It is very interesting whether it will be possible to calibrate t1 without using vertex2


----------



## m0j0

ViruZZZ said:


> *@m0j0*
> Will you open the white balance settings menu by 11 points using adb? It is very interesting whether it will be possible to calibrate t1 without using vertex2


I'm not the one to figure that one out. Maybe @spocky12 can do it?


----------



## m0j0

So, went in to ProjectIvy and the Launcher settings, then the input option and clicked prefer internal TV box. Playing around with the white balance and picture settings. One thing that immediately surprised me was the sharpness control. It actually works and on the highest setting is quite sharp! I dialed it back a few but still, pretty nice!


----------



## m0j0

Here's some daytime pics I took this afternoon after messing around with the picture controls in ProjectIvy (didn't even crop these):


----------



## antjes

m0j0 said:


> So, went in to ProjectIvy and the Launcher settings, then the input option and clicked prefer internal TV box. Playing around with the white balance and picture settings. One thing that immediately surprised me was the sharpness control. It actually works and on the highest setting is quite sharp! I dialed it back a few but still, pretty nice!


Same happent to me.
I set 11 on sharpness wich is aprox 60%, more than that I find some artefacts ocasionally.

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## DesertDog

ProjectionHead said:


> It's here! The Formovie Theater - the Global Version of the Fengmi T1:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Formovie Theater - Enhanced Global / International...
> 
> 
> The new "Formovie Theater" a.k.a the Global Fengmi T1 has now been launched. https://www.projectorscreen.com/formovie-theater-ultra-short-throw-projector-2800-lumen-triple-laser-ust-fengmi-t1.html This is expected to be landing here in the USA mid-late June. This new enhanced model comes with...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Introducing the new Formovie Theater - International /...
> 
> 
> ** 6/30/22 - Our review by @Dave Harper is live: Formovie Theater UST Projector Review (Global Version of Fengmi T1) We are now taking pre-orders for the new Formovie Theater - the Global Version of the Fengmi T1 and are expecting our first shipment to land here in the USA mid-late June...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


Woot! Order placed! Can't wait.


----------



## ProFragger

m0j0 said:


> Just checked and no, I did not have that box checked, so it looks like those settings were not in effect as you say. Thanks for the info! I will now have to play with it some more!


So just to clarify, the Mediatek settings via the factory settings from Projectivy work and are usable only when:

1. Launcher settings is checkboxed to prefer TV Box settings. 

2. When Inputs are selected via the Projectivy interface and the not the T1 input menu? 

Thanks!


----------



## tnaik4

The international version page states 107% bt2020 coverage.
Is it possible they increased the gamut coverage for it ?


----------



## mcusman2012

ProFragger said:


> Similar question I asked as well... Hope someone helps... Cannot get sound out of the Vertex2.


So finally got ATMOS from HTA7000 from my vertex1. My setup is similar as previous. Source(box/bd player) -> vertex -> soundbar hdmi in -> eARC soundbar to eARC PJ C2.
Point to notice is that i am not using splitter or matrix swap mode of vertex. Nor i am extracting audio and sending it via seperate port to sound bar. Also i am not using HDMI 1 and 2 port of my PJ, just the eARC port. I am using pass through mode(AV combined) with switching between my two sources by vertex. Which sound bar you have? Does it support eARC? If eArc is not supported by your sound bar then your setup would be different. I hope it helps people with eARC setup.


----------



## ProFragger

mcusman2012 said:


> So finally got ATMOS from HTA7000 from my vertex1. My setup is similar as previous. Source(box/bd player) -> vertex -> soundbar hdmi in -> eARC soundbar to eARC PJ C2.
> Point to notice is that i am not using splitter or matrix swap mode of vertex. Nor i am extracting audio and sending it via seperate port to sound bar. Also i am not using HDMI 1 and 2 port of my PJ, just the eARC port. I am using pass through mode(AV combined) with switching between my two sources by vertex. Which sound bar you have? Does it support eARC? If eArc is not supported by your sound bar then your setup would be different. I hope it helps people with eARC setup.


Thanks for your help. I think I understood my main issue with the connections which I will try to repair tomorrow (couldn't get to work on it today). I have a vanilla 5.1.2 sound bar, nothing special. Going to use it until I get a proper sound system installed. I don't believe this sound bar F6 model supports eARC... Only ARC I believe.. Thank you!


----------



## antjes

ProFragger said:


> So just to clarify, the Mediatek settings via the factory settings from Projectivy work and are usable only when:
> 
> 1. Launcher settings is checkboxed to prefer TV Box settings.
> 
> 2. When Inputs are selected via the Projectivy interface and the not the T1 input menu?
> 
> Thanks!


Exactly, that is my understanding after many tests.
The good thing here is that this solve, from my point of view, some of the main problems of this proyector:
1. only one user settings. (Now 2, another one under projectivity) To change between then is as easy as chose HDMI input from projectivity or FengOs.
2. MEMC not available on DV. (Available In projectivity settings under other options tab)

So Now I want to do a final tweak, the Oppo gives me the chance of tunning some picture adjustments in HDR Which helps a little bit.


----------



## ProFragger

antjes said:


> Exactly, that is my understanding after many tests.
> The good thing here is that this solve, from my point of view, some of the main problems of this proyector:
> 1. only one user settings. (Now 2, another one under projectivity) To change between then is as easy as chose HDMI input from projectivity or FengOs.
> 2. MEMC not available on DV. (Available In projectivity settings under other options tab)
> 
> So Now I want to do a final tweak, the Oppo gives me the chance of tunning some picture adjustments in HDR Which helps a little bit.


Can you elaborate on your point # 2 on this post? Thanks for your hard work!


----------



## antjes

ProFragger said:


> Can you elaborate on your point # 2 on this post? Thanks for your hard work!


You have MEMC available in any condition using projectivity.
1. Enter in projectivity app (make sure you have internal tv activated)
2. Choose Hdmi input.
3. Press menú button (down rigth) in your remote.
4. Choose “other options“
5. Go down to MFC and press right/left to change MEMC.


----------



## mcusman2012

ProFragger said:


> Thanks for your help. I think I understood my main issue with the connections which I will try to repair tomorrow (couldn't get to work on it today). I have a vanilla 5.1.2 sound bar, nothing special. Going to use it until I get a proper sound system installed. I don't believe this sound bar F6 model supports eARC... Only ARC I believe.. Thank you!


1. No issue. Your soundbar seems fine. It supports ARC. Atleast ARC supported sounds should work with same eARC port of projector. See this picture. I hope it helps about sound supported ports. 
2. ARC has limited supported audio. If above solution doesn't work and you want to play atmos/DTS HD and your sound bar does support it via HDMI IN only then ideally only solution is to send FULL AUDIO or FULL AV signal from SECOND output port of vertex using its SPLITTER mode(which splits 1 input signal to 2 identical output signals). And in this setup ARC and eARC is out of picture. And your 1st output port from vertex will then go to projector HDMI 1/2(not the eARC) and second output port of vertex







to soundbar. Thats it. This splitter setup will give you more benefits than the ARC port because ARC doesn't support all high definition sounds.

I hope it helps


----------



## gonzo86

Has anyone run both madVR (on a HTPC w/ high end graphics card) versus HDFury Vertex2 on the T1? I already have a HTPC so leaning towards running madVR, but with all the Vertex2 settings m0j0 posts in this thread, I'm tempted to just pick up the Vertex2. Can I get similar quality with madVR if I have the patience to tinker with the settings?


----------



## gonzo86

tnaik4 said:


> The international version page states 107% bt2020 coverage.
> Is it possible they increased the gamut coverage for it ?


You're right that they're advertising it on projectorscreen as 107%... that's odd. Is this a typo? Or is this because of the CMS available on the international version? Is it worth the extra $500?









Formovie Theater Ultra Short Throw Projector 2800 Lumen Triple Laser UST Fengmi T1 Global Android OS - Formovie Formovie-Theater


#Formovie-Theater - Formovie Theater Ultra Short Throw Projector 2800 Lumen Triple Laser UST Fengmi T1 Global Android OS




www.projectorscreen.com







https://res.cloudinary.com/buyavprojectorscreen/image/upload/w_1200,f_auto/v1653406688/descriptions/formovie-theater/s2-a.webp


----------



## mcusman2012

antjes said:


> You have MEMC available in any condition using projectivity.
> 1. Enter in projectivity app (make sure you have internal tv activated)
> 2. Choose Hdmi input.
> 3. Press menú button (down rigth) in your remote.
> 4. Choose “other options“
> 5. Go down to MFC and press right/left to change MEMC.


Two questions please
1. Can I use this projectivy on my Xiaomi C2? will it help more than vertex? Is there any video guide for it?
2. if i select LLDV out from my zidoo box, all its content start showing DV PJ logo and i cant adjust image parameters(it gets disappeared) even if i am playing SDR /1080P content. I heard that LLDV lets you change the image HDR parameters. Need help on this please since i am getting a very dark picture.


----------



## rjyap

Anyone found out a way to set laser brightness in projectivity? Or the brightness set in Fengmi OS will carry over into projectivity launcher.


----------



## tnaik4

gonzo86 said:


> You're right that they're advertising it on projectorscreen as 107%... that's odd. Is this a typo? Or is this because of the CMS available on the international version? Is it worth the extra $500?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Formovie Theater Ultra Short Throw Projector 2800 Lumen Triple Laser UST Fengmi T1 Global Android OS - Formovie Formovie-Theater
> 
> 
> #Formovie-Theater - Formovie Theater Ultra Short Throw Projector 2800 Lumen Triple Laser UST Fengmi T1 Global Android OS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.projectorscreen.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://res.cloudinary.com/buyavprojectorscreen/image/upload/w_1200,f_auto/v1653406688/descriptions/formovie-theater/s2-a.webp


Maybe with cms we can push primaries even further, i have a Sim2 M150 which is an Old 1080p LED, i was able to push it from 82-83% bt2020 to 91% bt2020 just by using there cms software to push primaries out.
So thats might be it, we should know pretty soon.


----------



## JereyWolf

gonzo86 said:


> Has anyone run both madVR (on a HTPC w/ high end graphics card) versus HDFury Vertex2 on the T1? I already have a HTPC so leaning towards running madVR, but with all the Vertex2 settings m0j0 posts in this thread, I'm tempted to just pick up the Vertex2. Can I get similar quality with madVR if I have the patience to tinker with the settings?


Yes, I use MadVR and also own HDfury Vrroom. My opinion is that HDR converted to SDR is much better on this projector than tweaking the HDR with the external device.

MadVR is relatively easy to get set-up for playback of movie rips, but I believe based on limited knowledge that using it for streaming takes quite a bit more effort.
This thread can provide some info on that.








VideoProcessor


VideoProcessor turns a computer into a 4k HDR capable live video processor by connecting a video capture card to a renderer and taking care of details such as conversion, timing and HDR metadata. This allows advanced renderers to do things like 3D LUT, HDR tone mapping, scaling, deinterlacing...




www.avsforum.com





For streaming I now prefer to disable all HDR and just watch everything in SDR. HDR always to looks too dim to me.

Comparison with fixed camera settings:


----------



## humax

tnaik4 said:


> The international version page states 107% bt2020 coverage.
> Is it possible they increased the gamut coverage for it ?




Our fellow member Tanizhq has also provided a possible answer on that one. I suppose the same applies for both versions. I quote from his post:


"To the people arguing about 89% vs 107% of the BT2020 color space and why the T1 advertises as 107%, I got an answer.

The T1 does only produce 89% of the colors in the BT2020 space BUT the overall area covered by the gamut is 107% compared to the area of BT2020.
Basically just means that it is producing more colors than BT2020, but not necessarily the same ones."


----------



## ProjectionHead

tnaik4 said:


> The international version page states 107% bt2020 coverage.
> Is it possible they increased the gamut coverage for it ?


That is how Formovie/Fengmi is advertising it. @Dave Harper will run it through the ringer and we will update with the max coverage that we found if it is contradictory.


----------



## m0j0

Playing around with a more saturated look last night


----------



## ProjectionHead

m0j0 said:


> Playing around with a more saturated look last night


I miss those freckles….


----------



## m0j0

ProjectionHead said:


> I miss those freckles….


I can easily get them back with a higher dv nits value in the Vrroom. Been staying with a mid level value to ensure I don’t push up against against white brightness issues, but eventually I will get back up there a bit more.


----------



## ProFragger

mcusman2012 said:


> 1. No issue. Your soundbar seems fine. It supports ARC. Atleast ARC supported sounds should work with same eARC port of projector. See this picture. I hope it helps about sound supported ports.
> 2. ARC has limited supported audio. If above solution doesn't work and you want to play atmos/DTS HD and your sound bar does support it via HDMI IN only then ideally only solution is to send FULL AUDIO or FULL AV signal from SECOND output port of vertex using its SPLITTER mode(which splits 1 input signal to 2 identical output signals). And in this setup ARC and eARC is out of picture. And your 1st output port from vertex will then go to projector HDMI 1/2(not the eARC) and second output port of vertex
> View attachment 3286864
> to soundbar. Thats it. This splitter setup will give you more benefits than the ARC port because ARC doesn't support all high definition sounds.
> 
> I hope it helps


Thank you again. I'll try these suggestions out report them back to you if I need further help. 

Silly question, but if Netflix is able to play the Dolby Atmos track then I can confirm I'm getting Atmos? What other ways can I the sound format I'm getting?


----------



## mcusman2012

ProFragger said:


> Thank you again. I'll try these suggestions out report them back to you if I need further help.
> 
> Silly question, but if Netflix is able to play the Dolby Atmos track then I can confirm I'm getting Atmos? What other ways can I the sound format I'm getting?


The only sure way to, that your sound bar is producing atmos, is the soundbar panel/led itself. In sony bars there is a button on its remote which says " Display". When you press this button , the display or soundbar panel shows the sound type(DTS HD/ATMOS etc) which is producing. That is confirmation what sound it is producing. My HTA7000 shows this. Other companies also have different method to check. You can just check online. Even if netflix is playing ATMOS you are never sure what your soundbar is producing because sometimes the source device sound settings or vertex settings can interfere with it.


----------



## mcusman2012

m0j0 said:


> Playing around with a more saturated look last night


How are you adjusting parameters? From the projector or vertex 2? Isnt LLDV out from zidoo boxes also enables adjustment of image parameters from PJ itself. I still cant access image parameters of PJ with LLDV output from zidoo box. Any help in this?


----------



## m0j0

mcusman2012 said:


> How are you adjusting parameters? From the projector or vertex 2? Isnt LLDV out from zidoo boxes also enables adjustment of image parameters from PJ itself. I still cant access image parameters of PJ with LLDV output from zidoo box. Any help in this?


There are settings on the Vertex2, the Zidoo and the T1 that you can make which will affect the final result. Without the Vertex2 though, you would be limited in what you can adjust.


----------



## mcusman2012

m0j0 said:


> There are settings on the Vertex2, the Zidoo and the T1 that you can make which will affect the final result. Without the Vertex2 though, you would be limited in what you can adjust.


I have attached vertex 1 which is previous model. 8kvroom is onway. Cant vertex 1 do this tweaking? My PJ xiaomi C2 loses image adjustment option when i set zidoo box to LLDV output dolby vision logo pops up. Isnt there any option to change brightness/tone mapping/gammu in DV mode via vertex 1?


----------



## m0j0

mcusman2012 said:


> I have attached vertex 1 which is previous model. 8kvroom is onway. Cant vertex 1 do this tweaking? My PJ xiaomi C2 loses image adjustment option when i set zidoo box to LLDV output dolby vision logo pops up. Isnt there any option to change brightness/tone mapping/gammu in DV mode via vertex 1?


The Vrroom will fix that issue for you. There is a check box under the HDR tab labeled "use custom HDR for TX0 and TX1 when input is LLDV". Once you check that box, you will have the full controls on your C2.


----------



## dami1337

Is there any difference iut of the box between projectivy enabled internal TV mode vs using fengmis player? Eg is fengmi adding any special stuff which is not available in the android own player?


----------



## donw

esegan said:


> I understand that not everyone needs precise color settings in the android menu of T2? Has anyone asked in technical support how to find the exact image settings in android?
> Perhaps it is possible for T1 to call all the settings of the hidden android, via ADB with a special command from the computer.
> Недавно я получил проектор 4K dangbey mars pro. Я не мог попасть в меню android через приложение, как в X3, так как программисты прошивки скрыли доступ к меню android. Но я написал в сервис и они написали мне инструкции о том, как активировать режим разработчика и ADB на проекторе и как вызвать скрытое меню Android с настройками через ADB и команду (adb shell am start com.android.tv.settings/.MainSettingsc) с компьютера. Для управления ADB я использовал программу (ADBAppControl). Теперь я могу вызвать настройки Android и точно настроить проектор.
> Я удивлен, что на форуме собралось много людей со всего мира, есть даже разработчик лаунчера и никто не хочет попасть в настройки изображения в android. Я один смог найти 2 способа добраться до настроек изображения в Android, и вас много. dangbey mars pro и t1 используют одну и ту же операционную систему Android 9, и многие файлы прошивки должны быть одинаковыми.
> View attachment 3286127
> View attachment 3286128
> View attachment 3286129


Please share with us your methods for accessing the T1 Android settings.


----------



## mcusman2012

m0j0 said:


> The Vrroom will fix that issue for you. There is a check box under the HDR tab labeled "use custom HDR for TX0 and TX1 when input is LLDV". Once you check that box, you will have the full controls on your C2.


In vertex 1 there is this option but differently labelled. Enable custom HDR if input HLG/HDR 10. I ticked that box already but even then image parameters doesn't show in PJ and DV logo pops up. Zidoo is set to LLDV output in box own output setting. Dont know whats going on? When you enable this custom option from vertex 2 does your PJ show image parameters? What is your zidoo HDR output setup? Is my vertex old?


----------



## okvcos

mcusman2012 said:


> In vertex 1 there is this option but differently labelled. Enable custom HDR if input HLG/HDR 10. Is my vertex old?


NO : 600MHz/18Gbps HDR, HDR10+, HLG, DV & LLDV, ARC, ALLM, IMAX ------> this is for HD Fury Vertex the black box
Maybe you have to update the firmware


----------



## esegan

donw said:


> Please share with us your methods for accessing the T1 Android settings.


This is the way to access android fine color settings for 4K dangbey mars pro. But you can try on T1 too, I don't have T1, I will order T1 global for 16000RMB in 1-2 weeks when it goes on sale.
Of the representatives of Fengmi, I now only have Fengmi Vogue pro, I tried yesterday to go into the android settings via ADB, but there are no settings (picture) in them. Most likely you need to contact the Fengmi service and find out how to find the settings (picture), maybe they hid them.


----------



## gonzo86

Is the HDR too dim for you even when watching in light controlled, pitch dark room? Which screen are you using? Maybe the screen color/gain is too low for HDR?



JereyWolf said:


> Yes, I use MadVR and also own HDfury Vrroom. My opinion is that HDR converted to SDR is much better on this projector than tweaking the HDR with the external device.
> 
> MadVR is relatively easy to get set-up for playback of movie rips, but I believe based on limited knowledge that using it for streaming takes quite a bit more effort.
> This thread can provide some info on that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VideoProcessor
> 
> 
> VideoProcessor turns a computer into a 4k HDR capable live video processor by connecting a video capture card to a renderer and taking care of details such as conversion, timing and HDR metadata. This allows advanced renderers to do things like 3D LUT, HDR tone mapping, scaling, deinterlacing...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For streaming I now prefer to disable all HDR and just watch everything in SDR. HDR always to looks too dim to me.
> 
> Comparison with fixed camera settings:
> View attachment 3286881


----------



## mcusman2012

okvcos said:


> NO : 600MHz/18Gbps HDR, HDR10+, HLG, DV & LLDV, ARC, ALLM, IMAX ------> this is for HD Fury Vertex the black box
> Maybe you have to update the firmware
> View attachment 3287131


Thanks. Ill see again. Yes ibhave this old vertex. Will see again. This option you say is NO means input 0? 
Secondly anyone using projectivy can confirm that they can change image parameters of DV/LLDV? Is there a way to change brightness and contrast of DV content by vertex 2/8KVROOM? My best picture quality is coming on xiaomi C2 when i set all my content to LLDV output in zidoo box. But its a bit dark. Any way to tweak a little? Gamma change may be to 2.1?


----------



## ProFragger

Observing a new issue... Has happened 2 times now... Second time still not repaired. 

When I restart via the T1 remote... The projector either takes forever to reboot or the second time (still hasn't come back on). On = screen. And the whole time the Formovie light keeps pulsating. Held down remote and physical power buttons, but to no avail. Anyone ever seen this? 

The only thing I'm tinkering with has been trying to introduce a sound bar to my Vertex2 chain...


----------



## JereyWolf

gonzo86 said:


> Is the HDR too dim for you even when watching in light controlled, pitch dark room? Which screen are you using? Maybe the screen color/gain is too low for HDR?


Yes, for me it is too dim. But this could totally because of my 0.4 gain screen. 

Either way, I'd recommend getting into MadVR if you already have the hardware.


----------



## okvcos

mcusman2012 said:


> My best picture quality is coming on xiaomi C2 when i set all my content to LLDV output in zidoo box. But its a bit dark. Any way to tweak a little? Gamma change may be to 2.1?


I have Xiaomi C2 and vertex2 , the best for me on DV vertex setting Max nits 4000 , not over


----------



## Zhang Xinglong

Why the need for HDFury? I thought this T1 can handle DV?

Or are you all up coverting from lower sources that don’t have DV?


----------



## m0j0

Zhang Xinglong said:


> Why the need for HDFury? I thought this T1 can handle DV?
> 
> Or are you all up coverting from lower sources that don’t have DV?


The DV on the T1 works well, but you can tweak and tune with the picture a bit better with an HDFury device.


----------



## abaintor

JereyWolf said:


> Yes, for me it is too dim. But this could totally because of my 0.4 gain screen.
> 
> Either way, I'd recommend getting into MadVR if you already have the hardware.


I will disagree on that one : madvr does a fantastic job to improve SDR or static HDR videos, better than devices like hdfury or even zidoo (although zidoo’s or dune hd Realtek chip does a good job).
But it is much weaker on dynamic hdr and it cannot recover the lost dynamic metadata : so you will always get too dark or too burnt scenes in your movies. Zidoo is a better choice for your own dolby vision rips and hdfury on the dolby vision streamed videos (through shield or roku or fire 4k max).
More and more videos have dynamic hdr now so this is not a good choice for the future unless ffmpeg project manages to release a lldv decoder to plug into madvr someday, and then you will get real tone mapping upon a dolby vision stream. For now this is just tone mapping upon static hdr

Maybe you need to tweak more the nits values on the hdfury or contrast on the T1? It also depends on the videos you play. Some hdr titles are really bad compared to their SDR version or dv version if any. I tried the wilds on Amazon and it looks terrible in hdr (dark scenes are hazy)


----------



## okvcos

abaintor said:


> But it is much weaker on dynamic hdr and it cannot recover the lost dynamic metadata : so you will always get too dark or too burnt scenes in your movies. Zidoo is a better choice for your own dolby vision rips and hdfury on the dolby vision streamed videos (through shield or roku or fire 4k max).


How much does the hardware cost that allows you to use MadVR for HDR dynamic control or can't ?
Only Panasonic or Oppo can do it?


----------



## eezrider

m0j0 said:


> The DV on the T1 works well, but you can tweak and tune with the picture a bit better with an HDFury device.


Not arguing at all, but I'd put in a good word for using the projector in DV mode, even without an HD Fury. I'm using a Roku Ultra with forced DV/LLDV and loving it. How much of it is down to the Ultra, how much the newer T1 firmware I dont know, but I've stopped even thinking about tweaking the image (you can't) and just sit back and enjoy the show  with a 0.6 gain screen I could use a little more brightness occasionally, so may still try out an Arcana and/or Projectivy.

I have spent time adapting an Ikea Besta cabinet with great success and will post some pictures when finished.


----------



## mcusman2012

okvcos said:


> I have Xiaomi C2 and vertex2 , the best for me on DV vertex setting Max nits 4000 , not over


Which xiaomi C2 feng os version are you on? Im stuck at 1.4. Why arent you using projectivy to change DV mode brightness/contrast? My vertex 1 has no option for DV customization. Im just using it as a splitter/switcher mode. How can you tweak DV with vertex 1?


----------



## zavr033

mcusman2012 said:


> I have attached vertex 1 which is previous model. 8kvroom is onway. Cant vertex 1 do this tweaking? My PJ xiaomi C2 loses image adjustment option when i set zidoo box to LLDV output dolby vision logo pops up. Isnt there any option to change brightness/tone mapping/gammu in DV mode via vertex 1?


Vertex1 is doing a great job giving full control over DV-content to my T1.
Settings and results are self explanatory:


----------



## mcusman2012

zavr033 said:


> Vertex1 is doing a great job giving full control over DV-content to my T1.
> Settings and results are self explanatory:
> 
> 
> View attachment 3287529
> 
> 
> View attachment 3287540
> 
> 
> View attachment 3287541
> 
> 
> View attachment 3287542
> 
> 
> View attachment 3287543


Thanks for sharing but sorry please guide me. Your setting "FULL no DV" will remove the DV layer and you will be just left with HDR content. HDR you can customize on PJ as well without vertex because image settings will pop up. The only benifit would be better tone mapping may be. I think you will lose quality of DV content if you use this method. Its for those displays which dont support DV and get help of vertex. My xiaomi C2 is giving me DV/LLDV image perfectly without vertex custom HDR. Colors are accurate. Tone mapping is very nice by default. No red tint. I know its better cuz i already own optoma UHD51 and used vertex custom HDR for DV content. Now with C2 i use vertex just to switch my display inputs nothing else.
secondly its the otherway round for me with xiaomi c2. If i enable custom HDR from vertex the image quality gets decreased/strange. I am using LLDV output always by default from z10pro since its the best image quality and DV logo pops up in PJ. I heard projectivy was giving access to image settings in DV mode? I will see your method as well but as per hdfury forums which i have read vertex 1 which you and i have cant tweak DV. See your 5th tab of vertex GUI which says DV/IF. This is the tab where vertex 2 and 8kvrroom can tweak DV a bit. For C2 i only seem to need to adjust brightness when playing very dark content if possible. Nothing else. DV Tone mapping/color saturation is already very nice.


----------



## JereyWolf

abaintor said:


> I will disagree on that one : madvr does a fantastic job to improve SDR or static HDR videos, better than devices like hdfury or even zidoo (although zidoo’s or dune hd Realtek chip does a good job).
> But it is much weaker on dynamic hdr and it cannot recover the lost dynamic metadata : so you will always get too dark or too burnt scenes in your movies. Zidoo is a better choice for your own dolby vision rips and hdfury on the dolby vision streamed videos (through shield or roku or fire 4k max).
> More and more videos have dynamic hdr now so this is not a good choice for the future unless ffmpeg project manages to release a lldv decoder to plug into madvr someday, and then you will get real tone mapping upon a dolby vision stream. For now this is just tone mapping upon static hdr
> 
> Maybe you need to tweak more the nits values on the hdfury or contrast on the T1? It also depends on the videos you play. Some hdr titles are really bad compared to their SDR version or dv version if any. I tried the wilds on Amazon and it looks terrible in hdr (dark scenes are hazy)


I really wanted to get the HDfury to work and make Dolby Vision content look nice...but SDR beat it in every case. I even copied mojos exact settings. It's just not my preference and that's OK. I'm not upset at all that I don't see the Dolby Vision logo. 

For MadVR, I believe the entire "tone map using pixel shaders" algorithm has the effect of dynamic tone mapping. It opens the ability to measure peak frame luminance and tone map accordingly. MadVR has absolutely produced the best image I have ever seen on any of my projectors compared to any native HDR content.

On my screen, I'm working with 65 peak nits....so that entire tone mapping range has to be wayyyy dialed back and even the HDfury stuff can't do it for me. It's OK, and I'm going to keep the Vrroom just to disable HDR from my Nvidia Shield.


----------



## ACE844

Curious if any other T1 owners using @spocky12 project tivy tools notice they are missing HDR and DV tags on appropriate content while using the internal TV view checkbox marked and enabled in the tivi settings? The kids were watching multiple disney + titles today on the T1 including Encanto, Obi-wan Kenobi, and many others all showed the Atmos, DV, IMAX enhanced, etc... tags on the title splash but when the stream started the T1 player tags which normally appear were missing.

I tried multiple times and I was able to replicate the fact the DV/ATMOS/HDR/ etc... tags did not appear.Is anyone else experiencing the same issue?Is there another way to confirm that the T1 is using DV or HDR, etc... in these circumstances?


----------



## ProFragger

Anyone using their T1 with a simple sound bar?


----------



## zavr033

mcusman2012 said:


> please guide me. Your setting "FULL no DV" will remove the DV layer and you will be just left with HDR content.


DV is still there, but Vertex makes PJ think that it deals with HDR. This trick also works with DV-content that doesn't have HDR layer inside.
You can uncheck "enable custom HDR-box" as well. All works and DV logo will not pop up.
Besides, tone mapping is much better and color gamut seems to be wider)
Even all-dark The Batman (2022) looks great.


----------



## ProFragger

JereyWolf said:


> I really wanted to get the HDfury to work and make Dolby Vision content look nice...but SDR beat it in every case. I even copied mojos exact settings. It's just not my preference and that's OK. I'm not upset at all that I don't see the Dolby Vision logo.
> 
> For MadVR, I believe the entire "tone map using pixel shaders" algorithm has the effect of dynamic tone mapping. It opens the ability to measure peak frame luminance and tone map accordingly. MadVR has absolutely produced the best image I have ever seen on any of my projectors compared to any native HDR content.
> 
> On my screen, I'm working with 65 peak nits....so that entire tone mapping range has to be wayyyy dialed back and even the HDfury stuff can't do it for me. It's OK, and I'm going to keep the Vrroom just to disable HDR from my Nvidia Shield.


@JereyWolf off topic, but I'm considering getting a Shield Pro, but curious of some behaviors of it with the T1. Can you help me out in testing a few things if you have time? I'd really appreciate it!


----------



## JereyWolf

ProFragger said:


> @JereyWolf off topic, but I'm considering getting a Shield Pro, but curious of some behaviors of it with the T1. Can you help me out in testing a few things if you have time? I'd really appreciate it!


Yeah, I'll try to help if I can. It may be useful for others here too.


----------



## ProFragger

JereyWolf said:


> Yeah, I'll try to help if I can. It may be useful for others here too.


Thank you Sir, I'll DM you...


----------



## ProFragger

I'll try asking again... Hope someone responds. Is there anyone using a Sound bar and an HDFury device with the T1? If so, could you please chime in? I'm living a nightmare of automatic, crazy input switching on my T1 with a Vertex2 + a Sound bar in the HDMI 3 (ARC port) of T1 + 2 different Streamers in input 0 and 1 of the Vertex2 using TX0. 

Appreciate your help if you respond. Thanks.


----------



## spocky12

m0j0 said:


> I'm not the one to figure that one out. Maybe @spocky12 can do it?


There is no such thing in the Android settings. The software has to be implemented by the vendor to add this custom section. Fengmi did not develop it on their Chinese device.
If I have access to an international T1 system dump, perhaps something can be done.


ACE844 said:


> Curious if any other T1 owners using @spocky12 project tivy tools notice they are missing HDR and DV tags on appropriate content while using the internal TV view checkbox marked and enabled in the tivi settings? The kids were watching multiple disney + titles today on the T1 including Encanto, Obi-wan Kenobi, and many others all showed the Atmos, DV, IMAX enhanced, etc... tags on the title splash but when the stream started the T1 player tags which normally appear were missing.
> 
> I tried multiple times and I was able to replicate the fact the DV/ATMOS/HDR/ etc... tags did not appear.Is anyone else experiencing the same issue?Is there another way to confirm that the T1 is using DV or HDR, etc... in these circumstances?


This is totally normal. It's the app that manages the tv view which is responsible from displaying these logos (by default, the Fengmi tv app). When you choose "use internal tv view", you're using my own implementation, which doesn't know the format currently displayed. If I manage to import the low level display system libs, I will be able to add them back (and implement multiple display profiles).


ProFragger said:


> I'll try asking again... Hope someone responds. Is there anyone using a Sound bar and an HDFury device with the T1? If so, could you please chime in? I'm living a nightmare of automatic, crazy input switching on my T1 with a Vertex2 + a Sound bar in the HDMI 3 (ARC port) of T1 + 2 different Streamers in input 0 and 1 of the Vertex2 using TX0.
> 
> Appreciate your help if you respond. Thanks.


I don't have a sound bar, but I had cec issues with my PS5 and shield pro both plugged into my AVR : almost each time I change the AVR input to the PS5 and then select the T1 HDMI input channel, it automatically powers on my shield and changes the AVR input accordingly (thus, it displays the ps5 input for 2 seconds and then switches to the shield pro). Using my "internal tv view" (which does not support cec) fixes that behavior.


----------



## JereyWolf

spocky12 said:


> I don't have a sound bar, but I had cec issues with my PS5 and shield pro both plugged into my AVR : almost each time I change the AVR input to the PS5 and then select the T1 HDMI input channel, it automatically powers on my shield and changes the AVR input accordingly (thus, it displays the ps5 input for 2 seconds and then switches to the shield pro). Using my "internal tv view" (which does not support cec) fixes that behavior.


I see the same CEC issue with my Shield connected through the AVR. VERY annoying that the Shield is always waking up and changing my AVR input anytime that I have to reselect the HDMI input on the T1. 

This is a problem that I did not have with any previous projector or TV in this signal chain.


----------



## mcusman2012

ProFragger said:


> I'll try asking again... Hope someone responds. Is there anyone using a Sound bar and an HDFury device with the T1? If so, could you please chime in? I'm living a nightmare of automatic, crazy input switching on my T1 with a Vertex2 + a Sound bar in the HDMI 3 (ARC port) of T1 + 2 different Streamers in input 0 and 1 of the Vertex2 using TX0.
> 
> Appreciate your help if you respond. Thanks.


I have similar setup with soundbar HTA7000, two sources (HTPC and Zidoo) with vertex 1 and xiaomi C2. Playing without any issues. What issue are you having? CEC or sound? Vertex 2 and 8kvroom devices are complicated. I think you mentioned about your soundbar that it supports only ARC right?


----------



## mcusman2012

ProFragger said:


> I'll try asking again... Hope someone responds. Is there anyone using a Sound bar and an HDFury device with the T1? If so, could you please chime in? I'm living a nightmare of automatic, crazy input switching on my T1 with a Vertex2 + a Sound bar in the HDMI 3 (ARC port) of T1 + 2 different Streamers in input 0 and 1 of the Vertex2 using TX0.
> 
> Appreciate your help if you respond. Thanks.


Sorry for bad drawing. Try option 2. Option 1 is for high end sound bars which can pass through DV. Also in option 2 you can use audio HDMI out port of vertex 2 or audio extraction mode.


----------



## m0j0

Ran through a Rec 709 D65 SDR BT 1886 calibration on the T1 last night. Here's some screenshots


----------



## m0j0

Settings post calibration (had to tweak brightness up one and contrast down about 5 from calibration numbers to look right for me).

This is with Brightness Mode: View Mode

These are for Night/Evening Settings mostly (add anywhere from +5 to +20 to brightness for ambient light/daytime viewing, and you can also modify saturation up if you prefer more saturated):


----------



## patels922

I just preordred the T1 Global version. Pondering picking up HD Fury. Would anyone know if Projectivy and HD Fury can modify the same settings? AKA do I need to shell out $$ for the HDFury device?


----------



## manwithnoname

I've noticed in most custom Image Parameters, most people set Sharpness to "22". Yet in one post recently, I saw someone configured Sharpness for 80. 

What is the reasoning for lowering the Sharpness? I've been setting mine to 22 as well, but can't tell what difference/visual effect I should be looking for.

Thanks!


----------



## m0j0

manwithnoname said:


> I've noticed in most custom Image Parameters, most people set Sharpness to "22". Yet in one post recently, I saw someone configured Sharpness for 80.
> 
> What is the reasoning for lowering the Sharpness? I've been setting mine to 22 as well, but can't tell what difference/visual effect I should be looking for.
> 
> Thanks!


That's probably from me. I was watching Witcher Season 2 Episode 7 around 27:30 mark and I noticed a lot of noise coming from the woman's blue dress when I had the sharpness set higher. It settled down around 22, so that is where I left it mostly.


----------



## mcusman2012

No one has yet answered about projectivy launcher query
1. Can it adjust contrast/brightness in DV mode of projector? Yes or No? For T1 or C2?
2. If no, then whats its use for image settings in HDR mode since image settings are already accessible by default in HDR mode.

Secondly , anyone with C2 with latest feng OS 2 firmware?


----------



## HCMKII

zavr033 said:


> Vertex1 is doing a great job giving full control over DV-content to my T1.
> Settings and results are self explanatory:
> 
> 
> View attachment 3287529
> 
> 
> View attachment 3287540
> 
> 
> View attachment 3287541
> 
> 
> View attachment 3287542
> 
> 
> View attachment 3287543


Could you share your EDID file please


----------



## ProFragger

spocky12 said:


> There is no such thing in the Android settings. The software has to be implemented by the vendor to add this custom section. Fengmi did not develop it on their Chinese device.
> If I have access to an international T1 system dump, perhaps something can be done.This is totally normal. It's the app that manages the tv view which is responsible from displaying these logos (by default, the Fengmi tv app). When you choose "use internal tv view", you're using my own implementation, which doesn't know the format currently displayed. If I manage to import the low level display system libs, I will be able to add them back (and implement multiple display profiles).I don't have a sound bar, but I had cec issues with my PS5 and shield pro both plugged into my AVR : almost each time I change the AVR input to the PS5 and then select the T1 HDMI input channel, it automatically powers on my shield and changes the AVR input accordingly (thus, it displays the ps5 input for 2 seconds and then switches to the shield pro). Using my "internal tv view" (which does not support cec) fixes that behavior.





JereyWolf said:


> I see the same CEC issue with my Shield connected through the AVR. VERY annoying that the Shield is always waking up and changing my AVR input anytime that I have to reselect the HDMI input on the T1.
> 
> This is a problem that I did not have with any previous projector or TV in this signal chain.





mcusman2012 said:


> I have similar setup with soundbar HTA7000, two sources (HTPC and Zidoo) with vertex 1 and xiaomi C2. Playing without any issues. What issue are you having? CEC or sound? Vertex 2 and 8kvroom devices are complicated. I think you mentioned about your soundbar that it supports only ARC right?





mcusman2012 said:


> Sorry for bad drawing. Try option 2. Option 1 is for high end sound bars which can pass through DV. Also in option 2 you can use audio HDMI out port of vertex 2 or audio extraction mode.
> View attachment 3287755


Thank you @spocky12, @JereyWolf, @mcusman2012 for responding and acknowledging. 

My set up or scenario is:

Two streaming devices (Chromecast and TiVo Stream 4K) plugged into Inputs 0 and 1 of the Vertex2. Using TX0, I'm trying to switch the streaming devices going into the T1 HDMI 1. I also have a sound bar connected from its TV Out (ARC) to T1 HDMI 3 (eARC) to get sound. I have the eARC turned off in the T1, otherwise I don't get sound. 

In this set up, I'm able to use the T1 remote to control the volume of the sound bar and navigation for both Streamers successfully. 

The problem: The Vertex2 keeps switching back to Input 0 after a bit of successfully using the Input 1. Then eventually it goes nuts, constantly switching, not letting me able to watch anything. Back and forth, it drives me nuts! Haha! 

Are you guys able to confirm or understand this issue? 

Footnote: @mcusman2012, thank you for your wonderful drawings. I tried the option 2 in the sense that instead of going from Sound bar TV out (ARC) to T1 HDMI 3 (eARC), but I do not get sound going to HDMI IN of the sound bar. 

I also tried this with the Vertex2 doing the switch for TX0 for the Streamers and going from Audio Out to sound bar HDMI IN. I think this worked, but the T1 remote is not able to control the volume of what's being played. I think it doesn't know the sound bar exists... 


Hope this all made sense, guys? 

Thank you all for trying to help!


----------



## donw

mcusman2012 said:


> No one has yet answered about projectivy launcher query
> 1. Can it adjust contrast/brightness in DV mode of projector? Yes or No? For T1 or C2?
> 2. If no, then whats its use for image settings in HDR mode since image settings are already accessible by default in HDR mode.
> 
> Secondly , anyone with C2 with latest feng OS 2 firmware?


Yes, according to post 5323 here:
Formovie Fengmi T1


----------



## antjes

mcusman2012 said:


> No one has yet answered about projectivy launcher query
> 1. Can it adjust contrast/brightness in DV mode of projector? Yes or No? For T1 or C2?
> 2. If no, then whats its use for image settings in HDR mode since image settings are already accessible by default in HDR mode.
> 
> Secondly , anyone with C2 with latest feng OS 2 firmware?


I have explained this before.
You can modify all settings on projectivity. The only important things are:

you can modify only user profile.
when you select a DV content input automatically setting selected is DV dark/bright/vivid and you have to change manually to user.

Now is posible to have 2 user profiles, one in projectivity and another in FengOs original.
I use FengOs for SDR, projectivity for DV, and when I want HDR then I use projectivity+Oppo settings on custom mode which can give 3 custom settings. I'm absolutelly satisfied.

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## donw

antjes said:


> I have explained this before.
> You can modify all settings on projectivity. The only important things are:
> 
> you can modify only user profile.
> when you select a DV content input automatically setting selected is DV dark/bright/vivid and you have to change manually to user.
> 
> Now is posible to have 2 user profiles, one in projectivity and another in FengOs original.
> I use FengOs for SDR, projectivity for DV, and when I want HDR then I use projectivity+Oppo settings on custom mode which can give 3 custom settings. I'm absolutelly satisfied.
> 
> Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


So you cannot leave the T1 in Projectivity/User mode because it will always flip to DV dark/bright/vivid when a DV source is played? I ask because I was considering setting my streaming box to always output LLDV and leave the T1 set to Projectivity/User mode. That way I wouldn't have to change T1 modes ever.


----------



## zavr033

HCMKII said:


> Could you share your EDID file please


Yes, please and don't forget to rename files back into .bin


----------



## rjyap

manwithnoname said:


> I've noticed in most custom Image Parameters, most people set Sharpness to "22". Yet in one post recently, I saw someone configured Sharpness for 80.
> 
> What is the reasoning for lowering the Sharpness? I've been setting mine to 22 as well, but can't tell what difference/visual effect I should be looking for.
> 
> Thanks!


The easiest way to see the over sharpening effect is by displaying either white text over black background or black text over white background. You will see haloing on the text when over sharpen. My sharpness setting is at 10. Hate artificial sharpening effect and to my eyes, T1 is very sharp natively.


----------



## m0j0

So, after doing a 709 calibration on my T1, I decided to swtich my Roku Ultra over to a 4k SDR display type from 4k Dolby Vision, to see how it looks. I had to lower down the contrast from 62 to 50 and brightness to 48 from 49, but once I did that, to my shock and surprise, it really looks awesome! I mean wow! Colors are natural and yet well saturated and popping and everything just looks really good.


----------



## jeff9n

m0j0 said:


> So, after doing a 709 calibration on my T1, I decided to swtich my Roku Ultra over to a 4k SDR display type from 4k Dolby Vision, to see how it looks. I had to lower down the contrast from 62 to 50 and brightness to 48 from 49, but once I did that, to my shock and surprise, it really looks awesome! I mean wow! Colors are natural and yet well saturated and popping and everything just looks really good.


Is this calibrated T1 running without the HD Fury video processor?


----------



## ProFragger

m0j0 said:


> So, after doing a 709 calibration on my T1, I decided to swtich my Roku Ultra over to a 4k SDR display type from 4k Dolby Vision, to see how it looks. I had to lower down the contrast from 62 to 50 and brightness to 48 from 49, but once I did that, to my shock and surprise, it really looks awesome! I mean wow! Colors are natural and yet well saturated and popping and everything just looks really good.


So not using the Vertex2 anymore? 😊


----------



## ProFragger

JereyWolf said:


> I see the same CEC issue with my Shield connected through the AVR. VERY annoying that the Shield is always waking up and changing my AVR input anytime that I have to reselect the HDMI input on the T1.
> 
> This is a problem that I did not have with any previous projector or TV in this signal chain.


Let me know if you ever find a solution out of this bud. Also please report the issue to [email protected] or else they will never fix it. I reported mine...


----------



## ProFragger

spocky12 said:


> There is no such thing in the Android settings. The software has to be implemented by the vendor to add this custom section. Fengmi did not develop it on their Chinese device.
> If I have access to an international T1 system dump, perhaps something can be done.This is totally normal. It's the app that manages the tv view which is responsible from displaying these logos (by default, the Fengmi tv app). When you choose "use internal tv view", you're using my own implementation, which doesn't know the format currently displayed. If I manage to import the low level display system libs, I will be able to add them back (and implement multiple display profiles).I don't have a sound bar, but I had cec issues with my PS5 and shield pro both plugged into my AVR : almost each time I change the AVR input to the PS5 and then select the T1 HDMI input channel, it automatically powers on my shield and changes the AVR input accordingly (thus, it displays the ps5 input for 2 seconds and then switches to the shield pro). Using my "internal tv view" (which does not support cec) fixes that behavior.


I haven't tested this @spocky12, I will. But I assume your mode breaks the remote control ability of the streaming device and the sound bar from the T1 remote, correct?


----------



## ProFragger

mcusman2012 said:


> I have similar setup with soundbar HTA7000, two sources (HTPC and Zidoo) with vertex 1 and xiaomi C2. Playing without any issues. What issue are you having? CEC or sound? Vertex 2 and 8kvroom devices are complicated. I think you mentioned about your soundbar that it supports only ARC right?


Thanks man for trying to help. It's the signal input maddening behavior that @spocky12 and @JereyWolf described above your post. @JereyWolf said no other projector he has seen caused this issue, so it might be a T1 bug. Please, if you see it on yours, report it to [email protected]. 

P.S. Are you planning to go from C2 to T1? If so... Why?


----------



## okvcos

mcusman2012 said:


> Secondly , anyone with C2 with latest feng OS 2 firmware?


No . stuck 1.4 .... No update for the moment


----------



## HCMKII

zavr033 said:


> Yes, please and don't forget to rename files back into .bin


Thanks you so much. I'll test


----------



## Zhang Xinglong

m0j0 said:


> The DV on the T1 works well, but you can tweak and tune with the picture a bit better with an HDFury device.


Hmm... is this something the HDfury Arcana cannot do? i bought one to try tweak all the different settings get no noticeable difference lol


----------



## JereyWolf

m0j0 said:


> So, after doing a 709 calibration on my T1, I decided to swtich my Roku Ultra over to a 4k SDR display type from 4k Dolby Vision, to see how it looks. I had to lower down the contrast from 62 to 50 and brightness to 48 from 49, but once I did that, to my shock and surprise, it really looks awesome! I mean wow! Colors are natural and yet well saturated and popping and everything just looks really good.


That's what I've been saying!
SDR>HDR....at least with the current HDR implementation on the T1.

Did you use the 1% & 2% moving bars (white and black) in HCFR to set your contrast and brightness?
I noticed that after the recent firmware the black floor was pretty elevated at the stock brightness of 50 and I had to lower it to 45 based on the black moving bars pattern, where previously the default setting of 50 was spot on for me.


----------



## m0j0

JereyWolf said:


> That's what I've been saying!
> SDR>HDR....at least with the current HDR implementation on the T1.
> 
> Did you use the 1% & 2% moving bars (white and black) in HCFR to set your contrast and brightness?
> I noticed that after the recent firmware the black floor was pretty elevated at the stock brightness of 50 and I had to lower it to 45 based on the black moving bars pattern, where previously the default setting of 50 was spot on for me.


Just using the Spears and Munsil disk for setting brightness and contrast currently. I'm still learning HCFR so haven't tried that test pattern you mentioned.


----------



## m0j0

So, to update, I still have the Roku Ultra set to 4k SDR and my T1 brightness is set to 49 and Contrast at 50. I found this to be excellent all around for Netflix streamed shows and movies as well as Youtube videos. I have the HDFury now set to 1,000 nits on the DV tab and still have the Zidoo Z9X configured for 12 bit LLDV, as well as the Sony X800M2 set to always on DV. With the vrroom set at 1,000 nits, it works perfectly with the brightness at 49 and Contrast at 50 setting I am using for 4k SDR. Ran through some content and felt everything was spot on.


----------



## m0j0

jeff9n said:


> Is this calibrated T1 running without the HD Fury video processor?


I still have the vrroom inline, but it only kicks in if the signal is LLDV. So, in the case of the Roku being set to 4k SDR, the vrroom isn't doing anything. However, I still prefer LLDV for my Zidoo Z9X and Sony X800M2 4k blu ray player, so the vrroom is still being used for those.


----------



## m0j0

Zhang Xinglong said:


> Hmm... is this something the HDfury Arcana cannot do? i bought one to try tweak all the different settings get no noticeable difference lol


It can set the max and min luminance. Do you have your player set to send always on DV?


----------



## Zhang Xinglong

m0j0 said:


> It can set the max and min luminance. Do you have your player set to send always on DV?


There was one point i set the apple tV to Force DV, but everything became so dark lol

Then some SDR & HDR colours came out odd.. 

My settings were:
Scaler : Auto
HDR : Force 4000 nits
LLDV > HDR : On, BT2020, Min Lu 0, Max lu 4000,


----------



## m0j0

Zhang Xinglong said:


> There was one point i set the apple tV to Force DV, but everything became so dark lol
> 
> Then some SDR & HDR colours came out odd..
> 
> My settings were:
> Scaler : Auto
> HDR : Force 4000 nits
> LLDV > HDR : On, BT2020, Min Lu 0, Max lu 4000,


You probably want to try a setting at 600 or below for max luminance and around 10 or so for min luminance and see how you like it. I believe that is what @lattiboy had his set to at one point.


----------



## lattiboy

Zhang Xinglong said:


> There was one point i set the apple tV to Force DV, but everything became so dark lol
> 
> Then some SDR & HDR colours came out odd..
> 
> My settings were:
> Scaler : Auto
> HDR : Force 4000 nits
> LLDV > HDR : On, BT2020, Min Lu 0, Max lu 4000,


Scaler: off
HDR: LLDV Sync
LLDV: 250 nits max, 0 min, BT2020


----------



## ProFragger

@m0j0 - Just to be clear, you still use the Vrroom for native DV content right? Are you doing any picture adjustments on the Roku for SDR stuff? Also are you forcing everything to SDR on the Roku now? Thanks!


----------



## m0j0

ProFragger said:


> @m0j0 - Just to be clear, you still use the Vrroom for native DV content right? Are you doing any picture adjustments on the Roku for SDR stuff? Also are you forcing everything to SDR on the Roku now? Thanks!


Right now, I have the Roku set to just 4K SDR, so no HDR and no DV, just 4k BT 2020 SDR. I may switch it back and forth and play with it, but I was surprised how much I liked it and it definitely makes the HD shows my kids usually watch look a lot better, so it seems like the right approach on this streaming box. As I said, I still like LLDV on the Z9X, which is what I use for watching local movie files, and also forced DV on my Sony blu ray player.


----------



## xrayg1971

So i have the t1 , no vertex , no projectivity tools ... just been messing with the custom settings with mojo's suggestion ... Question is should i install and use the projectivity tools and use those as well ? will they add value being that i dont have a vertex or fury


----------



## okvcos

lattiboy said:


> Zhang Xinglong said:
> 
> There was one point i set the apple tV to Force DV, but everything became so dark
> HDR : Force 4000 nits
> 
> 
> Scaler: off
> HDR: LLDV Sync
> LLDV: 250 nits max, 0 min, BT2020


Sorry but I don't understand. How is it possible that it gives dark with 4000 nits and it is not dark with 250 nits of max lu? Is it an ATV setup problem?


----------



## m0j0

okvcos said:


> Sorry but I don't understand. How is it possible that it gives dark with 4000 nits and it is not dark with 250 nits of max lu? Is it an ATV setup problem?


Good question. Perhaps something to do with how the tone curve is shaped by the luminance values.


----------



## m0j0

Took some pics from a couple Blackpink music videos last night from Youtube on the Roku (I think this is before I upped brightness to 49 from 48 though). In person, the picture looks really nice and vibrant!


----------



## Olive51

Hi Guys,
I have my T1 since 2 months now. I'm absolutely amazed every day with it, with my Vividstorm screen. Since the FengOS 2.0, Dolby vision is sooo good.

However, I notice from time to time some kind of white shadows, fixed, on the image. The pattern is a bit random, you could really think there is some fog/condensation on the mirror or optic.
But this is absolutely clean. AND ! It seems to disappear if I change hdmi type (1.4, 2.0 or 2.1). I couldn't find any logic yet. It's absolutely random, starting when I turn on the projector and unfortunately I didn't succeed to make a picture yet. But because it disappears when it looks for new input, it seems software related. That is even more weird.

Anyone noticed something similar?? I'm really worried

(I use a Nvidia Shield pro)


----------



## m0j0

Olive51 said:


> Hi Guys,
> I have my T1 since 2 months now. I'm absolutely amazed every day with it, with my Vividstorm screen. Since the FengOS 2.0, Dolby vision is sooo good.
> 
> However, I notice from time to time some kind of white shadows, fixed, on the image. The pattern is a bit random, you could really think there is some fog/condensation on the mirror or optic.
> But this is absolutely clean. AND ! It seems to disappear if I change hdmi type (1.4, 2.0 or 2.1). I couldn't find any logic yet. It's absolutely random, starting when I turn on the projector and unfortunately I didn't succeed to make a picture yet. But because it disappears when it looks for new input, it seems software related. That is even more weird.
> 
> Anyone noticed something similar?? I'm really worried
> 
> (I use a Nvidia Shield pro)


I do notice that the image is sharper in general with hdmi 2.1, though that’s probably not the specific issue you are experiencing.


----------



## ProFragger

m0j0 said:


> Right now, I have the Roku set to just 4K SDR, so no HDR and no DV, just 4k BT 2020 SDR. I may switch it back and forth and play with it, but I was surprised how much I liked it and it definitely makes the HD shows my kids usually watch look a lot better, so it seems like the right approach on this streaming box. As I said, I still like LLDV on the Z9X, which is what I use for watching local movie files, and also forced DV on my Sony blu ray player.


I see... I guess if I consume streaming services like you do on the Roku for YouTube, Netflix, Disney, HBO etc... You think I'd also get better results, instead of forcing LLDV with the Vertex2? Are you doing any picture setting modifications on the Roku or just the T1? 

I really want to use the Vertex2 man, but the input switching issue with the soundbar is maddening.


----------



## Zhang Xinglong

m0j0 said:


> Good question. Perhaps something to do with how the tone curve is shaped by the luminance values.


----------



## Zhang Xinglong

Hmm thanks tonight i go try


----------



## okvcos

m0j0 said:


> I have the HDFury now set to 1,000 nits on the DV tab and still have the Zidoo Z9X configured for 12 bit LLDV, as well as the Sony X800M2 set to always on DV. With the vrroom set at 1,000 nits, it works perfectly with the brightness at 49 and Contrast at 50 setting I am using for 4k SDR. Ran through some content and felt everything was spot on.


This I meant: if you raise the Nits from 1000 to 4000 on HDFury you have to set the contrast value on the projector around 50/52, if you go down with the Nits below 500 you have to set the contrast from 60/70. I practice to find a balance between SDR and LLDV (HDR) you have to stay with the value of Nits above 1000. I set 4000 nits on HDfury and a contrast of 51. But I have a Xiaomi C2, maybe a little less lumen and a lower native contrast


----------



## Zhang Xinglong

lattiboy said:


> Scaler: off
> HDR: LLDV Sync
> LLDV: 250 nits max, 0 min, BT2020


Thanks tonight i go try


----------



## mcusman2012

okvcos said:


> This I meant: if you raise the Nits from 1000 to 4000 on HDFury you have to set the contrast value on the projector around 50/52, if you go down with the Nits below 500 you have to set the contrast from 60/70. I practice to find a balance between SDR and LLDV (HDR) you have to stay with the value of Nits above 1000. I set 4000 nits on HDfury and a contrast of 51. But I have a Xiaomi C2, maybe a little less lumen and a lower native contrast


In which tab you are increasing nits ? In HDR tab of vrroom or DV tab?


----------



## zaselim

My fellow T1+PC brothers, did you check or try this (dolby vision bundle for PC) 



I just installed it but haven't checked it because i custom built the table today and haven't setup my T1. I will check it tomorrow if DV works on not and how it looks if it does.


----------



## okvcos

mcusman2012 said:


> In which tab you are increasing nits ? In HDR tab of vrroom or DV tab?





mcusman2012 said:


> In which tab you are increasing nits ? In HDR tab of vrroom or DV tab?


 HDR tab of vrroom or DV tab ........ Both


----------



## mcusman2012

zaselim said:


> My fellow T1+PC brothers, did you check or try this (dolby vision bundle for PC)
> 
> 
> 
> I just installed it but haven't checked it because i custom built the table today and haven't setup my T1. I will check it tomorrow if DV works on not and how it looks if it does.


Just installed it on my zotac magnus. Installed alright. Scanned the package by macafee for virus as well. But dont know how to use it. Have DVDFAB player as well as madvr. But video output is only 12bit bt2020 hdr as already previously. No LLDV no DV mode kicking in. Anyone else can guide on how to further use it.


----------



## zaselim

mcusman2012 said:


> Just installed it on my zotac magnus. Installed alright. Scanned the package by macafee for virus as well. But dont know how to use it. Have DVDFAB player as well as madvr. But video output is only 12bit bt2020 hdr as already previously. No LLDV no DV mode kicking in. Anyone else can guide on how to further use it.


There are couple of more things to install from MS Store.


----------



## okvcos

Ok nice ..... so what ???


----------



## mcusman2012

Maqnvm7 said:


> Alright, this is a good example of a reddish looking face in Dolby Vision:
> View attachment 3279780
> 
> 
> This is with custom settings (still Dolby Vision):
> View attachment 3279781
> 
> 
> Proof:
> View attachment 3279782
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that the colors or white balance here aren‘t perfect by any means. I did these custom settings in a couple of minutes just to demonstrate them.
> 
> And this is how I did it:
> First off, make sure your source is actually sending Dolby Vision and your preferred Brightness Mode is selected (in my case Office Mode).
> Now open Projectivy and activate the checkbox „Prefer internal TV View“ under Projectivy Launcher Settings -> Input.
> Then go back to your source and press the Settings button on your T1 remote (icon with 3 bars). This now opens the Mediatek settings instead of the original T1 settings.
> Go to Picture Mode and switch it to User.
> Now you’re able to change all the settings while Dolby Vision is still engaged.
> 
> Furthermore you can now also adjust the White Balance in Office Mode (under Factory Menu).
> You just need to select the User Picture Mode and change the values. For some reason it sends you back to the Projectivy Launcher and changes your Picture Mode when you‘re done adjusting the white balance. So just go back to your source and switch Picture Mode back to User and you should see the difference in White Balance.
> Here‘s a pic in Office Mode for demonstration:
> View attachment 3279783
> 
> It looks bad on purpose. Just wanted to show an extreme difference.
> 
> There’s also a setting somewhere in the Mediatek settings called MFC, which supposedly is Motion Interpolation, but it gives me less artifacts than the one in the T1 menu for whatever reason. Could be placebo though.
> It‘s even available with Dolby Vision active.
> 
> This whole thing might seem a bit complicated, but hey it’s free and as soon as you‘ve found the right settings, it‘s pretty much set it and forget it.
> But tweakers gonna tweak…
> 
> Special thanks to spocky12 for this awesome launcher!
> 
> Edit: No idea why the screen looks curved on my pictures, definitely doesn‘t look like that in real life.


Anyone has best setting for dolby vision LLDV in the projectivy launcher? White balance values within the launcher factory settings?


----------



## ProFragger

mcusman2012 said:


> Anyone has best setting for dolby vision LLDV in the projectivy launcher? White balance values within the launcher factory settings?


Per usual, @m0j0 is your guy man. He's a perfectionist and I know, at one time, he even dabbled in the Vertex2 + T1 + Projectivy WB settings.


----------



## ProFragger

People using the Shield Pro with this projector, because Shield Pro cannot force LLDV all the time or SDR for that matter - can you guys give me reasons as to why I should not return my Shield Pro? I don't use Plex and I own a Vertex2 that I got for a great deal.

Appreciate your inputs. Thank you.


----------



## Zhang Xinglong

So the new Formovie Theatre Vs Formovie T1 Chinese version... 
CMS vs No CMS?
Less Ram VS More Ram?
Less Memory Vs More Memory?


----------



## rjyap

I would prefer to use external player which is more flexible. CMS and 11 points greyscale would be more important for PQ. So build in memory and processing is no concern as long as the settings menu is working fine. Off course pricing would be a factor. If you own a HTPC with madVR, I would get the China version which is cheaper. If your source mostly streaming thru AppleTV, Roku or other android device, I would go for Global version.


----------



## Zhang Xinglong

rjyap said:


> I would prefer to use external player which is more flexible. CMS and 11 points greyscale would be more important for PQ. So build in memory and processing is no concern as long as the settings menu is working fine. Off course pricing would be a factor. If you own a HTPC with madVR, I would get the China version which is cheaper. If your source mostly streaming thru AppleTV, Roku or other android device, I would go for Global version.


Apple TV > Global Version 
because of the CMS?


----------



## rjyap

Zhang Xinglong said:


> Apple TV > Global Version
> because of the CMS?


I have no experience with Apple TV. Not sure if can install user created color management profile.


----------



## Zhang Xinglong

rjyap said:


> I have no experience with Apple TV. Not sure if can install user created color management profile.


nope it cannot lol


----------



## manwithnoname

Has anyone used a 1.3 gain screen with the T1 in a fully light controlled room? 

I am currently using a grey 1.0 but am considering using a white matte 1.3.

Thanks!
-Steve


----------



## Ricoflashback

rjyap said:


> I would prefer to use external player which is more flexible. CMS and 11 points greyscale would be more important for PQ. So build in memory and processing is no concern as long as the settings menu is working fine. Off course pricing would be a factor. If you own a HTPC with madVR, I would get the China version which is cheaper. If your source mostly streaming thru AppleTV, Roku or other android device, I would go for Global version.


Why? What does the global version have for streaming that the original Chinese T1 doesn't have? I don't think HTPC with madVR works with streaming content. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Lastly - with any video processor, what picture mode do you choose? If all the tone mapping is done by the processor, it should be just set it and forget it?


----------



## JereyWolf

ProFragger said:


> People using the Shield Pro with this projector, because Shield Pro cannot force LLDV all the time or SDR for that matter - can you guys give me reasons as to why I should not return my Shield Pro? I don't use Plex and I own a Vertex2 that I got for a great deal.
> 
> Appreciate your inputs. Thank you.


You are able to force 4k SDR with the shield. That's actually how I run mine. It's especially easy to do if you have the vertex because you can use the automix edid and choose the "remove all" option under HDR and DV.


----------



## Ricoflashback

JereyWolf said:


> You are able to force 4k SDR with the shield. That's actually how I run mine. It's especially easy to do if you have the vertex because you can use the automix edid and choose the "remove all" option under HDR and DV.


How do you force 4K SDR with the shield WITHOUT the Vertex?


----------



## ProFragger

JereyWolf said:


> You are able to force 4k SDR with the shield. That's actually how I run mine. It's especially easy to do if you have the vertex because you can use the automix edid and choose the "remove all" option under HDR and DV.


Thanks @JereyWolf! Have you found a way to force DV all the time too?

About the SDR, are you saying it's possible with the Shield, only with the Vertex2? Or are there internal steps to get there?

Thanks!


----------



## JereyWolf

Ricoflashback said:


> How do you force 4K SDR with the shield WITHOUT the Vertex?





ProFragger said:


> Thanks @JereyWolf! Have you found a way to force DV all the time too?
> 
> About the SDR, are you saying it's possible with the Shield, only with the Vertex2? Or are there internal steps to get there?
> 
> Thanks!


There's no way to force LLDV all the time, but for forcing SDR on the shield, it's relatively easy without any HDfury gear. 

You just go to advanced display settings, filter by 4k resolution and 60hz refresh rate, then choose any of the resolutions that do not say HDR.


----------



## m0j0

A few pictures from last night


----------



## okvcos

m0j0 said:


> A few pictures from last night


With the last setting ?


----------



## m0j0

okvcos said:


> With the last setting ?


These are the settings I used on the Roku (which is set to 4k display (no HDR and no DV)

Brightness Mode: View Mode
Image Parameters:
Brightness: 48
Contrast: 50
Saturation: 43
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 52
Color: Custom
Red: 1042
Green: 869
Blue: 675

I have the nits set to 300 for the DV tab on the Vrroom and the Zidoo Z9X configured for 12Bit LLDV, with these settings on the T1 when watching movies on the Z9X:

Brightness Mode: View Mode
Image Parameters:
Brightness: 49
Contrast: 64
Saturation: 42
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 52
Color: Custom
Red: 1042
Green: 869
Blue: 675


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> These are the settings I used on the Roku (which is set to 4k display (no HDR and no DV)
> 
> Brightness Mode: View Mode
> Image Parameters:
> Brightness: 48
> Contrast: 50
> Saturation: 43
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 52
> Color: Custom
> Red: 1042
> Green: 869
> Blue: 675
> 
> I have the nits set to 300 for the DV tab on the Vrroom and the Zidoo Z9X configured for 12Bit LLDV, with these settings on the T1 when watching movies on the Z9X:
> 
> Brightness Mode: View Mode
> Image Parameters:
> Brightness: 49
> Contrast: 64
> Saturation: 42
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 52
> Color: Custom
> Red: 1042
> Green: 869
> Blue: 675


Once again, I'm amazed that you have red higher. If you get some time, could you take a photo of that little snow swept girl from the 2018 Awaken documentary, the one that Littiboy likes to use?


----------



## m0j0

donw said:


> Once again, I'm amazed that you have red higher. If you get some time, could you take a photo of that little snow swept girl from the 2018 Awaken documentary, the one that Littiboy likes to use?


Is that on Netflix or something?


----------



## m0j0

donw said:


> Once again, I'm amazed that you have red higher. If you get some time, could you take a photo of that little snow swept girl from the 2018 Awaken documentary, the one that Littiboy likes to use?


My theory is that the blue is so far off that the red needs to be set much higher to bring it back into balance. I used to see a lot of blue saturation in my pictures that I don't see as much anymore.


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> Is that on Netflix or something?


itunes, tubi, and amazon


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> My theory is that the blue is so far off that the red needs to be set much higher to bring it back into balance. I used to see a lot of blue saturation in my pictures that I don't see as much anymore.


Interesting.


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> These are the settings I used on the Roku (which is set to 4k display (no HDR and no DV)
> 
> Brightness Mode: View Mode
> Image Parameters:
> Brightness: 48
> Contrast: 50
> Saturation: 43
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 52
> Color: Custom
> Red: 1042
> Green: 869
> Blue: 675
> 
> I have the nits set to 300 for the DV tab on the Vrroom and the Zidoo Z9X configured for 12Bit LLDV, with these settings on the T1 when watching movies on the Z9X:
> 
> Brightness Mode: View Mode
> Image Parameters:
> Brightness: 49
> Contrast: 64
> Saturation: 42
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 52
> Color: Custom
> Red: 1042
> Green: 869
> Blue: 675


So you think SD looks better than HDR10? Do you think that is an issue with the T1 or with the players?


----------



## m0j0

donw said:


> So you think SD looks better than HDR10? Do you think that is an issue with the T1 or with the players?


It seems better to my eyes on the Roku. Might be different for different players. On my Z9X, I still prefer 12 bit LLDV and the Vrroom combination.


----------



## mcusman2012

So after all the sources and tweaking by 8kvrroom/vertex (my setup currently in image) with settings by different members i can safely reassure what @lattiboy said earlier in his post that you may not need hd fury devices for tone mapping/HDR manipulation IF you use projectivy launcher. The custom edids of hdfury devices and their nits changes in DV/HDR tabs didnt satisfy me at all and made images strange/awkward. The default tone mapping for HDR and DV of C2 is very good by default as i previously stated and NO EDID/nits setting of 8kvrroom/vertex was able to improve it and i was compelled to use simple switching/passthrough mode of HD fury only using LLDV output of z10pro so that they dont interfere with default tone mapping of PJ(image attached). Projectivy was able to give access to image settings in DV mode which i ONLY wanted(just to increase brightness a bit). Initially i was afraid about my PJ getting bricked/malfunction after the app installation but i can assure that this is just a normal app which does not need your PJ to be rooted for installation. And it unlocks settings which HD fury cant get near.
1. Although the DV logo of PJ doesn't POP during this app usage but as per image quality and EDID showing in vrroom one can easily say that its DV running.
2. I am using settings currently in projectivy launcher and these are working for me fine whether cartoons or DV films in LLDV mode.
3. I use z10pro LLDV out mode always so cant comment on other devices/sources.
4. As for zotac magnus i use my it mainly for gaming.
5. This is for C2 but i think T1 will also behave similarly with this launcer.


lattiboy said:


> It would seem if you could effectively adjust maximum NIT value for HDR and DV with ProjectIvy you could make HD Fury devices unnecessary. I remember seeing that as an option, but can’t find it.


----------



## HCMKII

Zhang Xinglong said:


> There was one point i set the apple tV to Force DV, but everything became so dark lol
> 
> Then some SDR & HDR colours came out odd..
> 
> My settings were:
> Scaler : Auto
> HDR : Force 4000 nits
> LLDV > HDR : On, BT2020, Min Lu 0, Max lu 4000,


----------



## ProFragger

m0j0 said:


> It seems better to my eyes on the Roku. Might be different for different players. On my Z9X, I still prefer 12 bit LLDV and the Vrroom combination.


m0j0, are you doing any processing on your SDR stuff with the Vrroom?


----------



## ProFragger

mcusman2012 said:


> So after all the sources and tweaking by 8kvrroom/vertex (my setup currently in image) with settings by different members i can safely reassure what @lattiboy said earlier in his post that you may not need hd fury devices for tone mapping/HDR manipulation IF you use projectivy launcher. The custom edids of hdfury devices and their nits changes in DV/HDR tabs didnt satisfy me at all and made images strange/awkward. The default tone mapping for HDR and DV of C2 is very good by default as i previously stated and NO EDID/nits setting of 8kvrroom/vertex was able to improve it and i was compelled to use simple switching/passthrough mode of HD fury only using LLDV output of z10pro so that they dont interfere with default tone mapping of PJ(image attached). Projectivy was able to give access to image settings in DV mode which i ONLY wanted(just to increase brightness a bit). Initially i was afraid about my PJ getting bricked/malfunction after the app installation but i can assure that this is just a normal app which does not need your PJ to be rooted for installation. And it unlocks settings which HD fury cant get near.
> 1. Although the DV logo of PJ doesn't POP during this app usage but as per image quality and EDID showing in vrroom one can easily say that its DV running.
> 2. I am using settings currently in projectivy launcher and these are working for me fine whether cartoons or DV films in LLDV mode.
> 3. I use z10pro LLDV out mode always so cant comment on other devices/sources.
> 4. As for zotac magnus i use my it mainly for gaming.
> 5. This is for C2 but i think T1 will also behave similarly with this launcer.
> 
> View attachment 3289274
> View attachment 3289275


Thanks for your research man. Can you confirm that Projectivy settings only work in the internal inputs, losing CEC ability, correct?

What abilities did you lose with your every day usage?

Thanks.


----------



## m0j0

ProFragger said:


> m0j0, are you doing any processing on your SDR stuff with the Vrroom?


No, not touching SDR. Only DV/LLDV.


----------



## spocky12

ProFragger said:


> I haven't tested this @spocky12, I will. But I assume your mode breaks the remote control ability of the streaming device and the sound bar from the T1 remote, correct?


Yes, there's no perfect solution for now


----------



## rjyap

Ricoflashback said:


> Why? What does the global version have for streaming that the original Chinese T1 doesn't have? I don't think HTPC with madVR works with streaming content. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
> 
> Lastly - with any video processor, what picture mode do you choose? If all the tone mapping is done by the processor, it should be just set it and forget it?


The CMS and 11 point greyscale would be the selling point for global version which is why it's important for direct steaming. For madVR, the recommended output would be in SDR which is predictable and would be set and forget as it will handle both SDR and HDR colorspace correctly.


----------



## ProFragger

spocky12 said:


> Yes, there's no perfect solution for now


I noticed the T1 transfer sounds perfectly with no input issues when the Vertex2 is not in the chain. I spoke to HDFury support and they're saying I have bad cables. I'm troubleshooting with them. Would you like to join me in seeing if HDFury can help us? If so, you'd need to reach out to them on their Discord (they're very responsive actually). I can give you the info, so please do let me know 😊.

@JereyWolf I think you have the same issue, would you like to join me as well?

Let me know guys.


----------



## zoomx2

m0j0 said:


> These are the settings I used on the Roku (which is set to 4k display (no HDR and no DV)
> 
> Brightness Mode: View Mode
> Image Parameters:
> Brightness: 48
> Contrast: 50
> Saturation: 43
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 52
> Color: Custom
> Red: 1042
> Green: 869
> Blue: 675
> 
> I have the nits set to 300 for the DV tab on the Vrroom and the Zidoo Z9X configured for 12Bit LLDV, with these settings on the T1 when watching movies on the Z9X:
> 
> Brightness Mode: View Mode
> Image Parameters:
> Brightness: 49
> Contrast: 64
> Saturation: 42
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 52
> Color: Custom
> Red: 1042
> Green: 869
> Blue: 675


Blue 675 is way too warm/yellow


----------



## mcusman2012

ProFragger said:


> Thanks for your research man. Can you confirm that Projectivy settings only work in the internal inputs, losing CEC ability, correct?
> 
> What abilities did you lose with your every day usage?
> 
> Thanks.


I didnt lose any anything which i know of. I dont use CEC so i dont know about it.
1. There is an option "use internal tv" something like that which you HAVE to check inside the launcher. Otherwise the settings wont take effect.
2. The MFC is much better than default PJ. I set it to high and now the soap opera effect is very little. This point was also mentioned previously in some post by another user as well.
3. You can still do much more improvement because white balance is also now available. I didnt mingle with it because you cant see its changes live and re switching causes its effects to change. This was also mentioned in previous post with 3 matrix picture comparison. It needs a professional calibrator. I am using the WARM profile currently.

The point is HDFURY devices can't give you access to these settings what ever custom EDID you use.


----------



## ProFragger

mcusman2012 said:


> I didnt lose any anything which i know of. I dont use CEC so i dont know about it.
> 1. There is an option "use internal tv" something like that which you HAVE to check inside the launcher. Otherwise the settings wont take effect.
> 2. The MFC is much better than default PJ. I set it to high and now the soap opera effect is very little. This point was also mentioned previously in some post by another user as well.
> 3. You can still do much more improvement because white balance is also now available. I didnt mingle with it because you cant see its changes live and re switching causes its effects to change. This was also mentioned in previous post with 3 matrix picture comparison. It needs a professional calibrator. I am using the WARM profile currently.
> 
> The point is HDFURY devices can't give you access to these settings what ever custom EDID you use.


Thank you for your continued contributions. Can you please:

1. Share your remote solutions since you're not using CEC?

2. Post pictures of the PQ you're getting?

3. Share your guide and settings you've set using the menus aided by Projectivy?

Appreciate it again!


----------



## Dave Harper

mcusman2012 said:


> Thanks for sharing but sorry please guide me. Your setting "FULL no DV" will remove the DV layer and you will be just left with HDR content..





zavr033 said:


> DV is still there, but Vertex makes PJ think that it deals with HDR. This trick also works with DV-content that doesn't have HDR layer inside.
> 
> You can uncheck "enable custom HDR-box" as well. All works and DV logo will not pop up.
> Besides, tone mapping is much better and color gamut seems to be wider)
> Even all-dark The Batman (2022) looks great.


I don’t think that’s true in this mode. If you tell the source that the display, in this case the HDFury, isn’t capable of DV, then the source will not use that signal and won’t process or send DV/LLDV. 

You need to tell the source that your “display” is capable of DV/LLDV so it uses its internal DV processing and sends that signal into and through the HDFury. The HDFury then just adds a layer of metadata onto the LLDV signal so that your HDR10 only display knows wha to do with it. In this case, treat it as an HDR10 signal, even though it’s actually LLDV. 

Without the metadata the display will think it’s SDR. Some displays allow you to turn on HDR manually, which you can also do if you don’t add the metadata. 



okvcos said:


> Sorry but I don't understand. How is it possible that it gives dark with 4000 nits and it is not dark with 250 nits of max lu? Is it an ATV setup problem?





m0j0 said:


> Good question. Perhaps something to do with how the tone curve is shaped by the luminance values.


Think of it like this:

If you have a 1,000 nit source signal and a 1,000 nit capable display and a certain point in the image is at 250 nits, then the 1,000 nit display will show this signal at its native 250 nits. 

Now, if you have a display such as a projector capable of only 100 nits, when you try to display a 1,000 nit signal on it, without tone mapping, it will cram it down into 1/10th of the space. So when you play that 250 nit portion of the video, it will now be at the 25 nit mark, hence look way too dark as compared to what it should be. 

This is why tone mapping with HDR is so important! At least until we get displays that reach these maximums natively.


----------



## okvcos

Dave Harper said:


> Think of it like this:
> 
> If you have a 1,000 nit source signal and a 1,000 nit capable display and a certain point in the image is at 250 nits, then the 1,000 nit display will show this signal at its native 250 nits.
> 
> Now, if you have a display such as a projector capable of only 100 nits, when you try to display a 1,000 nit signal on it, without tone mapping, it will cram it down into 1/10th of the space. So when you play that 250 nit portion of the video, it will now be at the 25 nit mark, hence look way too dark as compared to what it should be.
> 
> This is why tone mapping with HDR is so important! At least until we get displays that reach these maximums natively.


This is clear to me, thank you .
What I don't understand is what is the best value to enter . 
For example I have noticed that , if i raise the Nits from 1000 to 4000 on HDFury , i have to set the contrast value on the projector around 50/52, if i go down with the Nits below 500 , i have to set the contrast from 60/70. In practice to find a balance between SDR and LLDV (HDR) i have to stay with the value of Nits above 1000. I set 4000 nits on HDfury and a contrast of 51. But I have a Xiaomi C2, maybe a little less lumen and a lower native contrast .

Projectors with HDR tinamic mapping, is there only JVC at the moment? Or just have a player who has it ???


----------



## Ricoflashback

rjyap said:


> The CMS and 11 point greyscale would be the selling point for global version which is why it's important for direct steaming. For madVR, the recommended output would be in SDR which is predictable and would be set and forget as it will handle both SDR and HDR colorspace correctly.


Just to make sure - -madVR (HTPC - not the madVR Envy or Extreme) - - it DOES work with streaming content or only static content like from a Bluray player? You place the HTPC after the streaming device and then HDMI out to your T1 or TV?


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> These are the settings I used on the Roku (which is set to 4k display (no HDR and no DV)
> 
> Brightness Mode: View Mode
> Image Parameters:
> Brightness: 48
> Contrast: 50
> Saturation: 43
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 52
> Color: Custom
> Red: 1042
> Green: 869
> Blue: 675
> 
> I have the nits set to 300 for the DV tab on the Vrroom and the Zidoo Z9X configured for 12Bit LLDV, with these settings on the T1 when watching movies on the Z9X:
> 
> Brightness Mode: View Mode
> Image Parameters:
> Brightness: 49
> Contrast: 64
> Saturation: 42
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 52
> Color: Custom
> Red: 1042
> Green: 869
> Blue: 675


m0j0, I tried your Roku settings with my Ugoos Android box which can force SD. First, I really missed something when going from HDR to SD. It was that kind of 3-D effect you can get from HDR. I noticed it the most in the water fall scene in this Costa Rica Youtube video: 



So I tried your settings in HDR mode and here are a couple of comparison shots between Lattiboy's initial settings
Brightness 49
Contrast 52
Saturation 51
Sharpness 22
Tone 51
R952
G995
B923 and yours. Definitely less blue and probably more natural. Also less pink in that branch the parrot is sitting on.
Edit: first photo in the series is with Lattiboy's original settings and second is with m0j0's settings but with HDR.


----------



## Ricoflashback

donw said:


> m0j0, I tried your Roku settings with my Ugoos Android box which can force SD. First, I really missed something when going from HDR to SD. It was that kind of 3-D effect you can get from HDR. I noticed it the most in the water fall scene in this Costa Rica Youtube video:
> 
> 
> 
> So I tried your settings in HDR mode and here are a couple of comparison shots between Lattiboy's initial settings
> Brightness 49
> Contrast 52
> Saturation 51
> Sharpness 22
> Tone 51
> R952
> G995
> B923 and yours. Definitely less blue and probably more natural. Also less pink in that branch the parrot is sitting on.
> View attachment 3289525
> 
> View attachment 3289529
> View attachment 3289530
> View attachment 3289531


More vibrant picture with number one (sorry - said number two earlier.) Kinda iridescent.


----------



## okvcos

donw said:


> m0j0, I tried your Roku settings with my Ugoos Android box which can force SD. First, I really missed something when going from HDR to SD. It was that kind of 3-D effect you can get from HDR. I noticed it the most in the water fall scene in this Costa Rica Youtube video:
> 
> 
> 
> So I tried your settings in HDR mode and here are a couple of comparison shots between Lattiboy's initial settings
> Brightness 49
> Contrast 52
> Saturation 51
> Sharpness 22
> Tone 51
> R952
> G995
> B923 and yours. Definitely less blue and probably more natural. Also less pink in that branch the parrot is sitting on.


 ... a little less red ...


----------



## GaeIta80

Hi guys, probably a stupid question or already mentioned...but do you reckon it would be possible to install the T1 Intl Android OS firmware on our Chinese T1 somehow?

Thanks!


----------



## donw

GaeIta80 said:


> Hi guys, probably a stupid question or already mentioned...but do you reckon it would be possible to install the T1 Intl Android OS firmware on our Chinese T1 somehow?
> 
> Thanks!


No, different hardware.


----------



## ACE844

donw said:


> No, different hardware.


I also asked Formovie Support the same ? A month ago. Predictably they said it wasn't possible.


----------



## m0j0

donw said:


> m0j0, I tried your Roku settings with my Ugoos Android box which can force SD. First, I really missed something when going from HDR to SD. It was that kind of 3-D effect you can get from HDR. I noticed it the most in the water fall scene in this Costa Rica Youtube video:
> 
> 
> 
> So I tried your settings in HDR mode and here are a couple of comparison shots between Lattiboy's initial settings
> Brightness 49
> Contrast 52
> Saturation 51
> Sharpness 22
> Tone 51
> R952
> G995
> B923 and yours. Definitely less blue and probably more natural. Also less pink in that branch the parrot is sitting on.
> View attachment 3289525
> 
> View attachment 3289529
> View attachment 3289530
> View attachment 3289531


Well, back to the drawing board then I guess...


----------



## mcusman2012

ProFragger said:


> I noticed the T1 transfer sounds perfectly with no input issues when the Vertex2 is not in the chain. I spoke to HDFury support and they're saying I have bad cables. I'm troubleshooting with them. Would you like to join me in seeing if HDFury can help us? If so, you'd need to reach out to them on their Discord (they're very responsive actually). I can give you the info, so please do let me know 😊.
> 
> @JereyWolf I think you have the same issue, would you like to join me as well?
> 
> Let me know guys.


You say that t1 transfers sound perfectly but vertex causes issues. I have both 8k vrroom and vertex. There is no issue with the sound. Which layout are you using for your soundbar? 
And yes adding further to minor issues to projectivy
1. I have to switch on soundbar now separately. I think its a cec issue which was already highlighted
2. I have to manually go in settings in launcher and select my user profile in DV mode every time on startup. And EVEN after selecting user profile picture doesn't get adjusted(SURPRISE) but then I increase any one parameter number of user profile and the user profile suddenly takes effect. I hope @spocky12 could guide in this. It seems user profile is not taking effect on its selection we always have to adjust atleast one of its parameters on PJ startup for the profile to take effect.


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> Well, back to the drawing board then I guess...


I'm actually liking those color settings...but with HDR. One thing I do notice is dark blues like the blue on that parrot turn kind of black.


----------



## m0j0

Here's a couple of daytime pics. This is via Youtube with SDR.


----------



## m0j0

donw said:


> I'm actually liking those color settings...but with HDR. One thing I do notice is dark blues like the blue on that parrot turn kind of black.


Ok, it wasn't clear which was which and which you preferred.


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> Ok, it wasn't clear which was which and which you preferred.


I edited my post to indicate which was which.


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> Here's a couple of daytime pics. This is via Youtube with SDR.


Those look really good. No lack of blue there.


----------



## Sunbox2408

Hi all, has anyone noticed a blip randomly on your T1 where the screen goes blank/black for a second and then comes back? I am temporarily using an old roku ultra 2018 version I think, wonder if that is causing it.

Would be good to know if someone else has experienced it before.


----------



## m0j0

Sunbox2408 said:


> Hi all, has anyone noticed a blip randomly on your T1 where the screen goes blank/black for a second and then comes back? I am temporarily using an old roku ultra 2018 version I think, wonder if that is causing it.
> 
> Would be good to know if someone else has experienced it before.


That might be a bad cable or something.


----------



## gonzo86

Has anyone figured out how to get the T1 to act as a center channel so we can use its B&O speakers along with a 2.1 set up? Or are the speakers not even worth using since they're only 70mm?


----------



## okvcos

okvcos said:


> This is clear to me, thank you .
> What I don't understand is what is the best value to enter .
> For example I have noticed that , if i raise the Nits from 1000 to 4000 on HDFury , i have to set the contrast value on the projector around 50/52, if i go down with the Nits below 500 , i have to set the contrast from 60/70. In practice to find a balance between SDR and LLDV (HDR) i have to stay with the value of Nits above 1000. I set 4000 nits on HDfury and a contrast of 51. But I have a Xiaomi C2, maybe a little less lumen and a lower native contrast .
> 
> Projectors with HDR tinamic mapping, is there only JVC at the moment? Or just have a player who has it ???


I I ask the question again


----------



## m0j0

okvcos said:


> I I ask the question again


I think JVC might be the only projector out there with dynamic tone mapping, but I could be wrong. As for the right value, that's a tough question. I have liked it set at various nits values and contrast levels. I think some of it depends on the player. With my Roku, I found that some content at higher nits will exhibit crushing of whites, so I typically keep it at 1,000 nits or less. I like the brightness with a low nits setting and it mostly looks really good, but then I lose some details, so that is kind of the trade off, more brightness and better shadow details at lower nits, but less details (like losing the freckles in certain pictures), so trying to find that balance is the goal I think.


----------



## rjyap

Ricoflashback said:


> Just to make sure - -madVR (HTPC - not the madVR Envy or Extreme) - - it DOES work with streaming content or only static content like from a Bluray player? You place the HTPC after the streaming device and then HDMI out to your T1 or TV?


MadVR PC only work for offline content. Like Blu-ray or UHD 4K.


----------



## donw

I just noticed that in HDMI 2.1 mode I am limited to 4K/30Hz, but If I switch to HDMI 2.0, I can get 4K/60Hz. As for the 1080p handshake mode, I have only had that occur once. Does anyone else see the 30Hz limitation in 2.1 mode?


----------



## rjyap

Nope. I can set my PC to 4K 60hz on both mode.


----------



## mcusman2012

donw said:


> I just noticed that in HDMI 2.1 mode I am limited to 4K/30Hz, but If I switch to HDMI 2.0, I can get 4K/60Hz. As for the 1080p handshake mode, I have only had that occur once. Does anyone else see the 30Hz limitation in 2.1 mode?


Switch back to 2.1 from 2.0 again. It will be good then. As it was mentioned earlier as well. You have to switch to other hdmi protocol and then again back to 2.1 on every startup. It happens in C2 as well sometimes. On startup of PJ ,the HDMI2.1 doesn't take effect sometimes.


----------



## mcusman2012

donw said:


> m0j0, I tried your Roku settings with my Ugoos Android box which can force SD. First, I really missed something when going from HDR to SD. It was that kind of 3-D effect you can get from HDR. I noticed it the most in the water fall scene in this Costa Rica Youtube video:
> 
> 
> 
> So I tried your settings in HDR mode and here are a couple of comparison shots between Lattiboy's initial settings
> Brightness 49
> Contrast 52
> Saturation 51
> Sharpness 22
> Tone 51
> R952
> G995
> B923 and yours. Definitely less blue and probably more natural. Also less pink in that branch the parrot is sitting on.
> Edit: first photo in the series is with Lattiboy's original settings and second is with m0j0's settings but with HDR.
> View attachment 3289525
> 
> View attachment 3289529
> View attachment 3289530
> View attachment 3289531


Yes. Forcing SDR BT2020 from even z10pro causes the movie to become light colored and you lose the 3d effect and fine texture on slow motion. Kind of takes away the charm. LLDV force output is always best.


----------



## JereyWolf

rjyap said:


> MadVR PC only work for offline content. Like Blu-ray or UHD 4K.


There are people using VideoProcessor software to apply madvr to streaming content. There's a thread here on avs.
It requires additional hardware and seem complicated to set up.


----------



## m0j0

mcusman2012 said:


> Yes. Forcing SDR BT2020 from even z10pro causes the movie to become light colored and you lose the 3d effect and fine texture on slow motion. Kind of takes away the charm. LLDV force output is always best.


I've been testing out using an SDR 709 EDID on the Zidoo, and it's really nice. Colors look good and saturated (not washed out)


----------



## rjyap

JereyWolf said:


> There are people using VideoProcessor software to apply madvr to streaming content. There's a thread here on avs.
> It requires additional hardware and seem complicated to set up.


Yes. You need a 4K HDMI capture card plus need to strip off HDCP protection before processing. Quite complicated and not worth the hassle.


----------



## m0j0

Get ready for a whole lot of pictures! I'm just uploading my camera roll from last night. No cropping, no rotating, nothing. Just straight off my iPhone.


----------



## m0j0

Ok, here goes...


----------



## Dave Harper

okvcos said:


> This is clear to me, thank you .
> What I don't understand is what is the best value to enter .
> For example I have noticed that , if i raise the Nits from 1000 to 4000 on HDFury , i have to set the contrast value on the projector around 50/52, if i go down with the Nits below 500 , i have to set the contrast from 60/70. In practice to find a balance between SDR and LLDV (HDR) i have to stay with the value of Nits above 1000. I set 4000 nits on HDfury and a contrast of 51. But I have a Xiaomi C2, maybe a little less lumen and a lower native contrast .
> 
> Projectors with HDR tinamic mapping, is there only JVC at the moment? Or just have a player who has it ???


It really all depends on your system, namely the display/projector you’re using. Each one reacts differently when presented with different EDID and nit parameters. 



m0j0 said:


> I think JVC might be the only projector out there with dynamic tone mapping, but I could be wrong. As for the right value, that's a tough question. I have liked it set at various nits values and contrast levels. I think some of it depends on the player. With my Roku, I found that some content at higher nits will exhibit crushing of whites, so I typically keep it at 1,000 nits or less. I like the brightness with a low nits setting and it mostly looks really good, but then I lose some details, so that is kind of the trade off, more brightness and better shadow details at lower nits, but less details (like losing the freckles in certain pictures), so trying to find that balance is the goal I think.


The Fengmi Global version I have does it and so do the LGs. 



rjyap said:


> MadVR PC only work for offline content. Like Blu-ray or UHD 4K.





JereyWolf said:


> There are people using VideoProcessor software to apply madvr to streaming content. There's a thread here on avs.
> It requires additional hardware and seem complicated to set up.





rjyap said:


> Yes. You need a 4K HDMI capture card plus need to strip off HDCP protection before processing. Quite complicated and not worth the hassle.


I just set this up. It’s actually quite easy. If you have an HDFury for HDCP already, that’s a plus.


----------



## m0j0

Well, it looks like I hit a 50 file upload limit... More coming.


----------



## m0j0

Here's some more


----------



## rjyap

Dave Harper said:


> I just set this up. It’s actually quite easy. If you have an HDFury for HDCP already, that’s a plus.


Cool. I don’t own any HDFury product to remove HDCP so never intend to set it up.


----------



## yking90

Is this the same as WEMAX NOVO? (Wemax Nova Smart 4K Ultra Short Throw Laser Projector -2100 ANSI Lumen – WEMAX)


----------



## m0j0

yking90 said:


> Is this the same as WEMAX NOVO? (Wemax Nova Smart 4K Ultra Short Throw Laser Projector -2100 ANSI Lumen – WEMAX)


No, not the same at all.


----------



## fancyclown

JereyWolf said:


> There are people using VideoProcessor software to apply madvr to streaming content. There's a thread here on avs.
> It requires additional hardware and seem complicated to set up.


Can anyone link the thread? Sorry for being lazy...


----------



## rjyap

m0j0 said:


> Get ready for a whole lot of pictures! I'm just uploading my camera roll from last night. No cropping, no rotating, nothing. Just straight off my iPhone.


Arghhh… T1 photo overdose.


----------



## m0j0

rjyap said:


> Arghhh… T1 photo overdose.


Yeah, sorry, just got a bit crazy there for a minute...


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> Yeah, sorry, just got a bit crazy there for a minute...


m0j0 version 28.16 

I‘d suggest a numbering scheme with notes like Sony and other manufacturers provide. You know, “This version sets nits at 4,000 to optimize black levels and highlights for Disney content only.“

And for your personal enjoyment - you need the “m0j0 Scrambler” that keeps all your gazillion settings (limit 5,000) at a touch of a button with instant recall. That way you can cycle through any of your settings at any time. Think of it as “MTM,” versus “DTM.” I always enjoy your pics, LOL, but the earlier ones were the best IMHO.


----------



## ProjectionHead

m0j0 said:


> Yeah, sorry, just got a bit crazy there for a minute...


AVSForum just hit us sponsors up for some more $ to cover the cost of server space and bandwidth just for @m0j0 ’s photos 😜


----------



## okvcos

m0j0 said:


> Yeah, sorry, just got a bit crazy there for a minute...


which version of color setting is it? 😄


----------



## donw

mcusman2012 said:


> Switch back to 2.1 from 2.0 again. It will be good then. As it was mentioned earlier as well. You have to switch to other hdmi protocol and then again back to 2.1 on every startup. It happens in C2 as well sometimes. On startup of PJ ,the HDMI2.1 doesn't take effect sometimes.


That fixed it. I sure wish Fengmi would fix this issue.


----------



## m0j0

okvcos said:


> which version of color setting is it? 😄


No changes to the T1 settings for most of these pictures. Everything on the Roku is with the same settings (including having TV set to 4k SDR), as noted below:
Brightness Mode: View Mode
Image Parameters:
Brightness: 48
Contrast: 50
Saturation: 43
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 52
Color: Custom
Red: 1042
Green: 869
Blue: 675

Probably the biggest change though is I actually wiped the lens cover with a clean, dry lens cloth vs. just blowing the dust off with a can of compressed air. It made a big difference!

Now on the Zidoo/Vrroom side, I did make a few changes. Firstly, I uploaded a 600MHZ REC 709 custom EDID file I downloaded from the Zidoo forum (made by Mark Swift) into custom slot #9 on the Vrroom (set to Input 0 under Custom EDID field in the EDID tab). This keeps my Roku from trying to automatically set the TV back to 4k HDR / Dolby Vision automatically. Second, I uploaded the same file directly to the Zidoo Z9X under Custom EDID, and made some other changes as well, such as dropping brightness down by 3 under HDR>SDR conversion, and using these settings on the T1:

Brightness Mode: View Mode
Image Parameters:
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 60
Saturation: 43
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 52
Color: Custom
Red: 1042
Green: 869
Blue: 675


----------



## m0j0

ProjectionHead said:


> AVSForum just hit us sponsors up for some more $ to cover the cost of server space and bandwidth just for @m0j0 ’s photos 😜


I thought it was like Dire Straights song, "Get your money for nothing and your pics for free"


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> m0j0 version 28.16
> 
> I‘d suggest a numbering scheme with notes like Sony and other manufacturers provide. You know, “This version sets nits at 4,000 to optimize black levels and highlights for Disney content only.“
> 
> And for your personal enjoyment - you need the “m0j0 Scrambler” that keeps all your gazillion settings (limit 5,000) at a touch of a button with instant recall. That way you can cycle through any of your settings at any time. Think of it as “MTM,” versus “DTM.” I always enjoy your pics, LOL, but the earlier ones were the best IMHO.


I just looked back through some pics from April 6th/7th timeframe, and yeah, there are a lot of good ones. Granted, they are not as consistent as I have now, but when they hit, wow! Might have to go back and start playing around with the old settings. I would have to go back to a low nits on the Vertex2, which makes things a bit less detailed in some scenes (less freckles and more of a glowing look), but the colors really popped!


----------



## humax

Element5 Projector Testing Fengmi Formovie T1 Image & Built-in B&W Speaker with Blade Runner 2049 - YouTube 

Testing Fengmi Formovie T1 Image & Built-in B&W Speaker with Blade Runner 2049.


----------



## Ricoflashback

humax said:


> Element5 Projector Testing Fengmi Formovie T1 Image & Built-in B&W Speaker with Blade Runner 2049 - YouTube
> 
> Testing Fengmi Formovie T1 Image & Built-in B&W Speaker with Blade Runner 2049.


Start your engines….

Settings?


----------



## mcusman2012

m0j0 said:


> I just looked back through some pics from April 6th/7th timeframe, and yeah, there are a lot of good ones. Granted, they are not as consistent as I have now, but when they hit, wow! Might have to go back and start playing around with the old settings. I would have to go back to a low nits on the Vertex2, which makes things a bit less detailed in some scenes (less freckles and more of a glowing look), but the colors really popped!


@m0j0 can you try plz only projectivy tools and direct source(zidoo) with bypass/switch only mode of hd fury devices? Are you not using projectivy tools? Or you are using combined custom hdr edids and projectivy? 
I tried many custom modes of vrroom but never got satisfied personally. One thing is common in these signals is that if your custom edid drops the bandwidth to less than 500mhz you lose the fine background details and texture. Also 12bit hdr gives your image a real feel(freckles and textures). 
Have you tried LLDV mode of zidoo box and projectivy launcher while in DV mode? It gives a very good image. The problem is that many users will not get the true DV image setting parameters until they follow a precise step
1. Use PJ default software and switch to source having LLDV signals
2. This will result in DV black logo signal appearing.
3. After that press home button on PJ remote and go to its apps and open projectivy
4. In projectivy select same HDMI port which was giving LLDV
5. Now change image parameters using 3 line remote button

If you dont follow these steps you will not get image settings parameters to work.


----------



## Aztar35

m0j0 said:


> I thought it was like Dire Straights song, "Get your money for nothing and your pics for free"


Haha! Nice!

And that first set of pics especially looked great. I don't know what you're feeding that thing, but that T1 is looking sharp.


----------



## m0j0

I don't say this lightly, but I think watching Dune and Encanto on my Zidoo Z9X tonight with the HDFury Vrroom is the best picture I've seen yet on this projector. I mentioned previously that looking back on some of my earlier pictures, there were a lot of good ones. What I noticed is that i was running lower NITS values on the DV tab. It seems that 130 NITS is the sweet spot on this projector. It let's me turn up the contrast quite a bit without blowing out white highlights and gives good details. The black levels and shadow details though are what really shine with this setup. I mean just amazing!

Edit: Here's the other brightness/contrast settings I found good with the Roku Ultra and Sony X800M2 when running in LLDV with the Vrroom at 130 nits

Brightness: 50
Contrast:: 80

If I'm running 709 content, it's:

Brightness: 48
Contrast: 50

All other settings stay the same.


----------



## mcusman2012

m0j0 said:


> I don't say this lightly, but I think watching Dune and Encanto on my Zidoo Z9X tonight with the HDFury Vrroom is the best picture I've seen yet on this projector. I mentioned previously that looking back on some of my earlier pictures, there were a lot of good ones. What I noticed is that i was running lower NITS values on the DV tab. It seems that 130 NITS is the sweet spot on this projector. It let's me turn up the contrast quite a bit without blowing out white highlights and gives good details. The black levels and shadow details though are what really shine with this setup. I mean just amazing!


Ok. Ill try your settings as well since ibhave similar z10pro and 8kvrroom setup. Lets see what improves. Your pictures show that you are not using projectivy tools? Is that right? since you have set the custom HDR for LLDV onputs so now DV logo will not pop. Why You have changed DV metadata settings if you are using custom HDR LLDV? Is it for you BD player?


----------



## HCMKII

m0j0 said:


> I don't say this lightly, but I think watching Dune and Encanto on my Zidoo Z9X tonight with the HDFury Vrroom is the best picture I've seen yet on this projector. I mentioned previously that looking back on some of my earlier pictures, there were a lot of good ones. What I noticed is that i was running lower NITS values on the DV tab. It seems that 130 NITS is the sweet spot on this projector. It let's me turn up the contrast quite a bit without blowing out white highlights and gives good details. The black levels and shadow details though are what really shine with this setup. I mean just amazing!
> 
> Edit: Here's the other brightness/contrast settings I found good with the Roku Ultra and Sony X800M2 when running in LLDV with the Vrroom at 130 nits
> 
> Brightness: 50
> Contrast:: 80
> 
> If I'm running 709 content, it's:
> 
> Brightness: 48
> Contrast: 50
> 
> All other settings stay the same.


About This device Android Menu:


----------



## m0j0

HCMKII said:


> About This device Android Menu:
> 
> View attachment 3290874


I think that's just what Android is reporting as it's HDR capabilities.


----------



## HCMKII

m0j0 said:


> I think that's just what Android is reporting as it's HDR capabilities.


I sent you this data because you are at the top of the tests!


----------



## mcusman2012

m0j0 said:


> I don't say this lightly, but I think watching Dune and Encanto on my Zidoo Z9X tonight with the HDFury Vrroom is the best picture I've seen yet on this projector. I mentioned previously that looking back on some of my earlier pictures, there were a lot of good ones. What I noticed is that i was running lower NITS values on the DV tab. It seems that 130 NITS is the sweet spot on this projector. It let's me turn up the contrast quite a bit without blowing out white highlights and gives good details. The black levels and shadow details though are what really shine with this setup. I mean just amazing!
> 
> Edit: Here's the other brightness/contrast settings I found good with the Roku Ultra and Sony X800M2 when running in LLDV with the Vrroom at 130 nits
> 
> Brightness: 50
> Contrast:: 80
> 
> If I'm running 709 content, it's:
> 
> Brightness: 48
> Contrast: 50
> 
> All other settings stay the same.


I used your settings on vrroom and z10pro but it was crushing the minor details of the background and also background texture. And the near front person looked prominent and saturated. Colors are a bit off. I dont have a good camera but just for comparison. Please also note i have not done any post pic editing. Just cropping. Second pic is without 8kvrroom. Just projectivy layer on DV.


----------



## m0j0

mcusman2012 said:


> View attachment 3290935
> 
> I used your settings on vrroom and z10pro but it was crushing the minor details of the background and also background texture. And the near front person looked prominent and saturated. Colors are a bit off. I dont have a good camera but just for comparison. Please also note i have not done any post pic editing. Just cropping. Second pic is without 8kvrroom. Just projectivy layer on DV.


Did you use all the same settings on the Z10pro? You should be getting a 4k60 594MHz signal.


----------



## mcusman2012

m0j0 said:


> Did you use all the same settings on the Z10pro? You should be getting a 4k60 594MHz signal.


Yes. Except the 60htz. I did that as well. same picture overall. As you can see in the image the mountain behind cave of wonders has very good texture and real feel(much better than the picture in real). While your settings crushed the background details but it bought dark and popping colors. Have you tried adjusting just the default DV picture of PJ by projectivy? I think you should give it a try and use bypass mode of 8kvrroom without edids.


----------



## ProFragger

HCMKII said:


> About This device Android Menu:
> 
> View attachment 3290874


Where's this shot from?


----------



## m0j0

mcusman2012 said:


> Yes. Except the 60htz. I did that as well. same picture overall. As you can see in the image the mountain behind cave of wonders has very good texture and real feel(much better than the picture in real). While your settings crushed the background details but it bought dark and popping colors. Have you tried adjusting just the default DV picture of PJ by projectivy? I think you should give it a try and use bypass mode of 8kvrroom without edids.


Sorry if I missed it, but have you shared the settings you're using to adjust the DV picture in ProjectIvy?


----------



## ProFragger

mcusman2012 said:


> Yes. Except the 60htz. I did that as well. same picture overall. As you can see in the image the mountain behind cave of wonders has very good texture and real feel(much better than the picture in real). While your settings crushed the background details but it bought dark and popping colors. Have you tried adjusting just the default DV picture of PJ by projectivy? I think you should give it a try and use bypass mode of 8kvrroom without edids.


Can you share your Projectivy settings that you've made without the Vrroom/Vertex2 engaged? Are you still running DV everywhere or buying some of the new recommendations from @m0j0 and @JereyWolf might have made the same recommendation, using steaming devices (at least)...


----------



## Dave Harper

rjyap said:


> Cool. I don’t own any HDFury product to remove HDCP so never intend to set it up.


There are also cheap HDMI splitters that can do this.



fancyclown said:


> Can anyone link the thread? Sorry for being lazy...











VideoProcessor


VideoProcessor turns a computer into a 4k HDR capable live video processor by connecting a video capture card to a renderer and taking care of details such as conversion, timing and HDR metadata. This allows advanced renderers to do things like 3D LUT, HDR tone mapping, scaling, deinterlacing...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## m0j0

mcusman2012 said:


> Yes. Except the 60htz. I did that as well. same picture overall. As you can see in the image the mountain behind cave of wonders has very good texture and real feel(much better than the picture in real). While your settings crushed the background details but it bought dark and popping colors. Have you tried adjusting just the default DV picture of PJ by projectivy? I think you should give it a try and use bypass mode of 8kvrroom without edids.


I've attached a picture of my screen with the 130 nits DV settings (1st attachment)
and a 2nd picture with 500 nits DV settings (2nd attachment)

Neither is perfect, but both give a respectable amount of shadow detail IMO. This is just a really tough picture to take.


----------



## mcusman2012

m0j0 said:


> I've attached a picture of my screen with the 130 nits DV settings (1st attachment)
> and a 2nd picture with 500 nits DV settings (2nd attachment)
> 
> Neither is perfect, but both give a respectable amount of shadow detail IMO. This is just a really tough picture to take.


Cant see your OSD green details of TX from vrroom? which signal type your device is outputing? Please increase time of OSD fade to 60sec from setting menu of vrroom for easiness of all if you dont mind.


----------



## mphilamp

Hello, I'm new there, 

I just received my T1 2 weeks ago. It's so good ! Indeed picture quality is fantastic even though I had a hard time calibrating it (_view mode_, _contrast_ 50 to 60 depending on the source, _saturation _47, _hue_ 48, _brightness_ 50 to 55 depending on the source, _sharpness_ : 0, _White Balance R_: 920, _G_: 1050, _B_: 1080 -> in original tv app settings, not in projectivy/mediatek settings
On this T1 Red must be reduced and it also reduces laser speckle as a bonus.

Being able to modify white balance of the dovi bright mode is also great (thanks to mediatek settings in projectivy), I didn't try outside of the dedicated Dovi profile because I guess it can maybe break too much the way dovi must be treated (don't really know) so I can't change the image profile to "user" ( in order to change contrast / brightness ) 

once you get the point of calibrating it you get truely impressive results. Hopefully Fengmi will improve the out of the box calibration soon.

If I'm not mistaken I noticed that _office mode_ disables the white balance adjustement in mediatek setting (and maybe also in original tv app settings) -> EDIT : I'll verify this statement, not so sure eventually.

Also, I find the left and right top borders to be too soft and I was forced to fix geometry (on all side but bottom) although I have a vividstorm screen which is absolutely flat... maybe I haven't got luck with mine although it's far from being annoying in real usage. Worth mentionning.


----------



## m0j0

mphilamp said:


> Hello, I'm new there,
> 
> I just received my T1 2 weeks ago. It's so good ! Indeed picture quality is fantastic even though I had a hard time calibrating it (_view mode_, _contrast_ 50 to 60 depending on the source, _saturation _47, _hue_ 48, _brightness_ 50 to 55 depending on the source, _sharpness_ : 0, _White Balance R_: 920, _G_: 1050, _B_: 1080 -> in original tv app settings, not in projectivy/mediatek settings
> On this T1 Red must be reduced and it also reduces laser speckle as a bonus.
> 
> Being able to modify white balance of the dovi bright mode is also great (thanks to mediatek settings in projectivy), I didn't try outside of the dedicated Dovi profile because I guess it can maybe break too much the way dovi must be treated (don't really know) so I can't change the image profile to "user" ( in order to change contrast / brightness )
> 
> once you get the point of calibrating it you get truely impressive results. Hopefully Fengmi will improve the out of the box calibration soon.
> 
> If I'm not mistaken I noticed that _office mode_ disables the white balance adjustement in mediatek setting (and maybe also in original tv app settings) -> EDIT : I'll verify this statement, not so sure eventually.
> 
> Also, I find the left and right top borders to be too soft and I was forced to fix geometry (on all side but bottom) although I have a vividstorm screen which is absolutely flat... maybe I haven't got luck with mine although it's far from being annoying in real usage. Worth mentionning.


Glad you’re enjoying your T1. You are right about office mode. Have you tried the auto focus steps in ProjectIvy? There’s instructions in this thread somewhere.


----------



## mcusman2012

mphilamp said:


> Hello, I'm new there,
> 
> I just received my T1 2 weeks ago. It's so good ! Indeed picture quality is fantastic even though I had a hard time calibrating it (_view mode_, _contrast_ 50 to 60 depending on the source, _saturation _47, _hue_ 48, _brightness_ 50 to 55 depending on the source, _sharpness_ : 0, _White Balance R_: 920, _G_: 1050, _B_: 1080 -> in original tv app settings, not in projectivy/mediatek settings
> On this T1 Red must be reduced and it also reduces laser speckle as a bonus.
> 
> Being able to modify white balance of the dovi bright mode is also great (thanks to mediatek settings in projectivy), I didn't try outside of the dedicated Dovi profile because I guess it can maybe break too much the way dovi must be treated (don't really know) so I can't change the image profile to "user" ( in order to change contrast / brightness )
> 
> once you get the point of calibrating it you get truely impressive results. Hopefully Fengmi will improve the out of the box calibration soon.
> 
> If I'm not mistaken I noticed that _office mode_ disables the white balance adjustement in mediatek setting (and maybe also in original tv app settings) -> EDIT : I'll verify this statement, not so sure eventually.
> 
> Also, I find the left and right top borders to be too soft and I was forced to fix geometry (on all side but bottom) although I have a vividstorm screen which is absolutely flat... maybe I haven't got luck with mine although it's far from being annoying in real usage. Worth mentionning.


Good to hear about the projectivy. How you have adjusted white balance of default DV bright profile since i cant change it with ProjectIvy? Which settings you are using of white balance currently in projectivy? The default profiles cant seem to be changeable in pjivy. Only user profile can be adjusted. Or may be i am unable to do it. It would be great if you could share you projectivy DV settings. Thank you.


----------



## mcusman2012

mphilamp said:


> Hello, I'm new there,
> 
> I just received my T1 2 weeks ago. It's so good ! Indeed picture quality is fantastic even though I had a hard time calibrating it (_view mode_, _contrast_ 50 to 60 depending on the source, _saturation _47, _hue_ 48, _brightness_ 50 to 55 depending on the source, _sharpness_ : 0, _White Balance R_: 920, _G_: 1050, _B_: 1080 -> in original tv app settings, not in projectivy/mediatek settings
> On this T1 Red must be reduced and it also reduces laser speckle as a bonus.
> 
> Being able to modify white balance of the dovi bright mode is also great (thanks to mediatek settings in projectivy), I didn't try outside of the dedicated Dovi profile because I guess it can maybe break too much the way dovi must be treated (don't really know) so I can't change the image profile to "user" ( in order to change contrast / brightness )
> 
> once you get the point of calibrating it you get truely impressive results. Hopefully Fengmi will improve the out of the box calibration soon.
> 
> If I'm not mistaken I noticed that _office mode_ disables the white balance adjustement in mediatek setting (and maybe also in original tv app settings) -> EDIT : I'll verify this statement, not so sure eventually.
> 
> Also, I find the left and right top borders to be too soft and I was forced to fix geometry (on all side but bottom) although I have a vividstorm screen which is absolutely flat... maybe I haven't got luck with mine although it's far from being annoying in real usage. Worth mentionning.


Nice to hear about projectivy. Which DV white balance settings are you using in projectivy tools? Does your "user" profile goes into motion compensation? I am unble to feel it in user profile. @m0j0 what are your white balance settings in projectivy? Have you tried adjusting any DV modes? I cant seem to adjust any mode of DV except user profile in projectivy.


----------



## HCMKII

ProFragger said:


> Where's this shot from?


In Projectivy, you can see the parameters of the projector. (Android menu About this device)


----------



## mcusman2012

m0j0 said:


> Sorry if I missed it, but have you shared the settings you're using to adjust the DV picture in ProjectIvy?


My current settings are
"User" profile projectivy(z10pro LLDV)
brightness:68
Contrast:55
Saturation: 55


----------



## okvcos

mcusman2012 said:


> My current settings are
> "User" profile projectivy(z10pro LLDV)
> brightness:68
> Contrast:55
> Saturation: 55


brightness:68 ----> 
too much .....you can see very well from the photos you posted


----------



## JereyWolf

mphilamp said:


> If I'm not mistaken I noticed that _office mode_ disables the white balance adjustement in mediatek setting (and maybe also in original tv app settings) -> EDIT : I'll verify this statement, not so sure eventually.
> 
> Also, I find the left and right top borders to be too soft and I was forced to fix geometry (on all side but bottom) although I have a vividstorm screen which is absolutely flat... maybe I haven't got luck with mine although it's far from being annoying in real usage. Worth mentionning.


You are correct about office mode disabling the color temperature options.

I also have a poor focus in my upper corners...but I've learned to live with it because it's not visible in anything other than looking at text.


----------



## m0j0

Playing around with some new settings. Here's a few pictures (hopefully the storage bill is paid up for the month) 
These are afternoon pics, so not the best, but still pretty good I think.


----------



## ProFragger

m0j0 said:


> Playing around with some new settings. Here's a few pictures (hopefully the storage bill is paid up for the month)
> These are afternoon pics, so not the best, but still pretty good I think.


Settings? 😇


----------



## ProFragger

REQUEST: Anyone using a Harmony Hub remote or a Sofabaton with their T1s? Please let me know, thanks.


----------



## mphilamp

mphilamp said:


> nce you get the point of calib





mcusman2012 said:


> Good to hear about the projectivy. How you have adjusted white balance of default DV bright profile since i cant change it with ProjectIvy? Which settings you are using of white balance currently in projectivy? The default profiles cant seem to be changeable in pjivy. Only user profile can be adjusted. Or may be i am unable to do it. It would be great if you could share you projectivy DV settings. Thank you.


In W/B adjust I set picture mode to dovi bright and color temperature to "user"

then I adjust the levels below and it works.

But I don't change anything in picture mode.

Maybe, but I don't really know, you have to make sure that brightness is anything but "office mode" (it prevents quite any levels change anywhere if I'm not mistaken) before you change anything of the above in mediatek settings (I set mine to "view mode")


----------



## mphilamp

Also I noticed that HDR content is _super hard_ to calibrate but that it also depends on the source content.

I usually end up not being able to remove completely the *"neon orange lips" *effects that is driving me mad and overal the colors seem to be "unreasonnable"

With Dovi content and some white balance adjustment it's better.

Also, when using the oppo 203 as HDMI preprocess, the _HDR10_ tag overlay is displayed whereas when my ugoos am6 plus is plugged directly, it is not (_btw: and I know that it's not supposed to be displayed when using internal tv mode in projectivy, nor the dovi tag, so of course in this case I'm using native tv app_) even though the AM6 says that the signal is indeed HDR.
Fortunately it does not seem to change anything else in terms of delivered signal.
With Dovi, no issue, the AM6 triggers it directly.

Other stuff worth mentionning :

My oppo does not seem to be able to preprocess dolby vision stream (treat it like HDR), and even in bypass mode it kind of removes it.
(maybe this is for another thread sorry )

When the oppo does tone mapping on HDR input, the SDR result has way better accuracy and less WTF colors, even though it's not perfect yet. I set the tone mapping to 150 nits and keep the bt.2020 data. but of course I loose the "deep image nice gradient and overall dynamic" effect that is still great with HDR.


----------



## mphilamp

mcusman2012 said:


> Nice to hear about projectivy. Which DV white balance settings are you using in projectivy tools? Does your "user" profile goes into motion compensation? I am unble to feel it in user profile. @m0j0 what are your white balance settings in projectivy? Have you tried adjusting any DV modes? I cant seem to adjust any mode of DV except user profile in projectivy.


regarding motion compensation, I don't really care about it, it's off by default with dovi bright and I did not try to activate it (I guess it's MFC in Mediatek settings)


----------



## m0j0

Here's some night shots (these were taken with brightness mode set to night mode)


----------



## m0j0

Continued


----------



## jakechoy

m0j0 said:


> Continued


3338 is jaw dropping.


----------



## donw

mphilamp said:


> Also I noticed that HDR content is _super hard_ to calibrate but that it also depends on the source content.
> 
> I usually end up not being able to remove completely the *"neon orange lips" *effects that is driving me mad and overal the colors seem to be "unreasonnable"
> 
> With Dovi content and some white balance adjustment it's better.
> 
> Also, when using the oppo 203 as HDMI preprocess, the _HDR10_ tag overlay is displayed whereas when my ugoos am6 plus is plugged directly, it is not (_btw: and I know that it's not supposed to be displayed when using internal tv mode in projectivy, nor the dovi tag, so of course in this case I'm using native tv app_) even though the AM6 says that the signal is indeed HDR.
> Fortunately it does not seem to change anything else in terms of delivered signal.
> With Dovi, no issue, the AM6 triggers it directly.
> 
> Other stuff worth mentionning :
> 
> My oppo does not seem to be able to preprocess dolby vision stream (treat it like HDR), and even in bypass mode it kind of removes it.
> (maybe this is for another thread sorry )
> 
> When the oppo does tone mapping on HDR input, the SDR result has way better accuracy and less WTF colors, even though it's not perfect yet. I set the tone mapping to 150 nits and keep the bt.2020 data. but of course I loose the "deep image nice gradient and overall dynamic" effect that is still great with HDR.


Another Ugoos AM6 user here. I've noticed the neon lips on and off with HDR sources. Last night watching the movie Ambulance, most scenes would look fine, then the lighting would change, and someone's lips would look a little too bright. I keep turning down the red. Here are my current settings:
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 54
Saturation: 43
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 52
Red: 945
Green: 969
Blue: 775 

What are yours for HDR?


----------



## JereyWolf

Are all of these latest photos are in SDR @m0j0 ?


----------



## m0j0

JereyWolf said:


> Are all of these latest photos are in SDR @m0j0 ?


Yes, these are all 4k SDR on the Roku Ultra


----------



## JereyWolf

m0j0 said:


> Yes, these are all 4k SDR on the Roku Ultra


I'm not just saying this because I have a preference for SDR, but I believe these are the best photos you've posted.


----------



## ProFragger

JereyWolf said:


> You are correct about office mode disabling the color temperature options.
> 
> I also have a poor focus in my upper corners...but I've learned to live with it because it's not visible in anything other than looking at text.


We should keep hounding them about the focus issue... It really is kinda ridiculous 😅..


----------



## Deanodxb

JereyWolf said:


> You are correct about office mode disabling the color temperature options.
> 
> I also have a poor focus in my upper corners...but I've learned to live with it because it's not visible in anything other than looking at text.


Are you sure your T1 is sitting absolutely level, corner to corner? I had the same problem, wasn't my screen but the shelf the T1 was sitting on. Once I fixed that, I reset the keystone to zero adjustments and the (top left) corner is now much sharper.


----------



## JereyWolf

Deanodxb said:


> Are you sure your T1 is sitting absolutely level, corner to corner? I had the same problem, wasn't my screen but the shelf the T1 was sitting on. Once I fixed that, I reset the keystone to zero adjustments and the (top left) corner is now much sharper.


I can't say for sure that the projector is completely level....but the stand is sitting on is perpendicular to the screen.

I'm asking this because I'm genuinely starting to wonder....does it matter if you projector is level at all? The feet have to be adjusted to get the correct geometry based on however your screen is hanging, right?

So if your screen is angled off the wall and you make the projector match by being perpendicular to it, the focus should be as good as possible... conversely, if your screen is less than perfect and hanging at any angle off the wall and you make the projector perfectly level, the image is not going to have straight sides.

And how does all of that impact the ability to achieve uniform focus?

I'll try to take some measurements from the chassis of the projector to all of the corners on my screen....that should let me determine better how perpendicular my screen actually is...or whether my screen has high/low spots at the corners. 

Side note, I've had 3 other projectors set up in this exact location with the same screen and I've never had focus uniformity issues before I set up my T1.


----------



## rjyap

Easy test. Try to push one of the corner of the frame either in or out and check the focus. Not all screen frame are flat and could be slightly blended. I have no issue for four corner sharpness and the frame I used is very sturdy. But my observation UST is very sensitive to screen imperfection. I have slight wave on the edge of the screen and that affect the straight line unlike my previous long throw projector.


----------



## JereyWolf

I wonder if the mounting of the lens is screwed up on mine....
I've always had this issue...but also always thought I must be doing something wrong...but I just don't know what's going on.

With the left side parallel to the screen, the right side is way out of whack. I've never been able to get both sides parallel without major keystone.


----------



## JereyWolf

Also...while trying to re-align again....my keystone controls are mirrored. 

I'm guessing this is related to the one time I powered it on and everything was mirrored. Ever since then I've had to run the projector in the "mirror" projection mode to get a proper image....even after a full factory reset.









20220610_160918.mp4







drive.google.com


----------



## mcusman2012

mphilamp said:


> In W/B adjust I set picture mode to dovi bright and color temperature to "user"
> 
> then I adjust the levels below and it works.
> 
> But I don't change anything in picture mode.
> 
> Maybe, but I don't really know, you have to make sure that brightness is anything but "office mode" (it prevents quite any levels change anywhere if I'm not mistaken) before you change anything of the above in mediatek settings (I set mine to "view mode")


Does the settings in factory menu give you control over brightness and contrast when you select dolby bright and color temp to user? Only RGB gain and RGB offset is present. What values seem best for you in DV? Anyway to better calibrate contrast/brightness in DV?


----------



## ProFragger

rjyap said:


> Easy test. Try to push one of the corner of the frame either in or out and check the focus. Not all screen frame are flat and could be slightly blended. I have no issue for four corner sharpness and the frame I used is very sturdy. But my observation UST is very sensitive to screen imperfection. I have slight wave on the edge of the screen and that affect the straight line unlike my previous long throw projector.


Can you share a picture of your focus correction screen please? Several of us have reported the top right corner focus issue... I'm thinking it cannot be a coincidence?


----------



## rjyap

ProFragger said:


> Can you share a picture of your focus correction screen please? Several of us have reported the top right corner focus issue... I'm thinking it cannot be a coincidence?


I only use Fengmi build in correction screen. My four corner is align to the screen properly. One of the trick I use is adjust the rack height at each leg instead on the projector. If the top edge width is smaller then bottom, then try to tilt up.


----------



## m0j0

For those interested, here's the settings I've been using the past few days. My kids seem to really enjoy watching their HD kids shows with these, and I like the black levels for adult movies at night as well.

T1 settings when watching on the Roku Ultra, set as 4K only (Rec 709/no HDR, no DV):
Brightness Mode: View Mode (daytime/evening viewing with lights on) or Night Mode (with all lights off)
Image Parameters:
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 45 (up to 48 seems to be excellent, so have to experiment to see which is better)
Saturation: 48
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 51
Color: Custom
Red: 1090 (revised down from 1235, see note at bottom)
Green: 1024
Blue: 927

For my Zidoo Z9X and Sony X800M2, I am still forcing DV and using LLDV via the Vrroom (170 nits DV settings) with the following settings on the T1 (I only watch movies at night, so these settings are mainly for that use case):

Brightness Mode: Depends (some movies look better at night with Night Mode, like Dune, and some look better with View Mode, like Encanto, so test it out and see which way you prefer based on the movie/content)
Image Parameters:
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 57 (57 is great for most movies, especially darker/low light movies, but I sometimes push this up to 60 for really bright/colorful movies)
Saturation: 48
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 51
Color: Custom
Red: 1090 (revised down from 1235, see note at bottom)
Green: 1024
Blue: 927

EDIT:
Seems I was a bit too aggressive with Red. I was checking some greyscale test patterns and it had a red tint to it. I have lowered the Red down to 1090 and that seems to be playing more nicely with the greyscale. I also was able to up the contrast from 45 to 48 on the Roku after this change, so now I have to test which way I like better....


----------



## tnaik4

So guys if i just get get a fengmi T1 chinese version and use projectivi mod if i m not mistaken, would it be the same as the global version ? 
It is just more cms settings and android? If so than thats not much for the extra cost, and i m good with tools and moding so no issue there.

Just not sure if the global version has dtm like Dave is suggesting. I do use MadVR exclusively, but if there is a dtm build in othrr than dv mode than i can see some use for that for streaming.

Just trying to decide which one to get, i know i ll get one, but which one lol.


----------



## JereyWolf

As annoying as those issues I mentioned today are....it's very easy to forget about them because of how nice the image is from the T1. So far ahead of every other UST I've had set up here.

All of these are SDR playback processed by MadVR. I did my best to make the photo match what I was seeing.


----------



## jakechoy

FYI. Target is having a sale with free delivery of Roku Ultra 2022 4K/HDR/Dolby Vision Streaming Device and Roku Voice Remote Pro for $70. Good deal to pair with the T1.


----------



## afshin khazaeli

ProFragger said:


> We should keep hounding them about the focus issue... It really is kinda ridiculous 😅..


 agreed! My upper corners have bad focus as well (especially top right). Otherwise, loving the blacks and contrast so far.


----------



## ProFragger

m0j0 said:


> For those interested, here's the settings I've been using the past few days. My kids seem to really enjoy watching their HD kids shows with these, and I like the black levels for adult movies at night as well.
> 
> T1 settings when watching on the Roku Ultra, set as 4K only (Rec 709/no HDR, no DV):
> Brightness Mode: View Mode (daytime/evening viewing with lights on) or Night Mode (with all lights off)
> Image Parameters:
> Brightness: 50
> Contrast: 45 (up to 48 seems to be excellent, so have to experiment to see which is better)
> Saturation: 48
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 51
> Color: Custom
> Red: 1090 (revised down from 1235, see note at bottom)
> Green: 1024
> Blue: 927
> 
> For my Zidoo Z9X and Sony X800M2, I am still forcing DV and using LLDV via the Vrroom (170 nits DV settings) with the following settings on the T1 (I only watch movies at night, so these settings are mainly for that use case):
> 
> Brightness Mode: Depends (some movies look better at night with Night Mode, like Dune, and some look better with View Mode, like Encanto, so test it out and see which way you prefer based on the movie/content)
> Image Parameters:
> Brightness: 50
> Contrast: 57 (57 is great for most movies, especially darker/low light movies, but I sometimes push this up to 60 for really bright/colorful movies)
> Saturation: 48
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 51
> Color: Custom
> Red: 1090 (revised down from 1235, see note at bottom)
> Green: 1024
> Blue: 927
> 
> EDIT:
> Seems I was a bit too aggressive with Red. I was checking some greyscale test patterns and it had a red tint to it. I have lowered the Red down to 1090 and that seems to be playing more nicely with the greyscale. I also was able to up the contrast from 45 to 48 on the Roku after this change, so now I have to test which way I like better....



Back to 400 nits, @m0j0? Wasn't 150 the magic number? 😊


----------



## ProFragger

afshin khazaeli said:


> agreed! My upper corners have bad focus as well (especially top right). Otherwise, loving the blacks and contrast so far.
> View attachment 3292586
> 
> View attachment 3292587


Thank you for sharing, I was convinced that I was perhaps crying wolf 😊. You/we should all report to Fengmi about this problem @ [email protected].

I admit, I'm no expert on projector alignment (my first projector), but I highly doubt that it's not a likely software issue if the blurry sport is always top right and the rest is crystal? Perhaps someone mentioned a hardware issue of alignment of some lens or cover?

Can people share where you see your blurry spots/focus issue on the screen on your T1s?


----------



## ProFragger

rjyap said:


> I only use Fengmi build in correction screen. My four corner is align to the screen properly. One of the trick I use is adjust the rack height at each leg instead on the projector. If the top edge width is smaller then bottom, then try to tilt up.


Can you post a picture of your focus screen, friend?


----------



## m0j0

ProFragger said:


> Back to 400 nits, @m0j0? Wasn't 150 the magic number? 😊


Actually, 170 nits on the DV tab currently.


----------



## 3sprit

@m0j0 What is your screen?


----------



## zaselim

ProFragger said:


> Thank you for sharing, I was convinced that I was perhaps crying wolf 😊. You/we should all report to Fengmi about this problem @ [email protected].
> 
> I admit, I'm no expert on projector alignment (my first projector), but I highly doubt that it's not a likely software issue if the blurry sport is always top right and the rest is crystal? Perhaps someone mentioned a hardware issue of alignment of some lens or cover?
> 
> Can people share where you see your blurry spots/focus issue on the screen on your T1s?


Mine is at the left corner that looks less focused than the rest of the corners which I talked about a lot a month or one and half month ago. I emailed the fengmi support back and forth and the only conclusion they came up with that if i don't notice it on movies and stuff and fine with it outside of it then i should try to live with it or apply for replacement. So for a replacement i had to send the unit to China at my cost which was around 250usd, and to me the issue wasn't that bad for me to spend that much money for the replacement as i only notice it on focus screen or on a text around the edge of top left corner. And from where i sit it looks better so i decided to live with it.
So in Fengmi's opinion all for four corner can't be equally focused but they should be clear and if someone has blurry situation going on then it is not a software issue but the hardware issue. So i don't think they will going to work on this problem with the software update.


----------



## zaselim

So i have been on a break with the projector and finally watched suicide squad a couple of days ago and quality/picture wise it was an amazing experience for me and the best one when it comes to detail/sharp picture wise. I could see the skin pores or texture detail on the fabric like i was seeing it in person and not in a movie on a screen. The details were great on other movies like dr. Strange or spiderman no way home or lion king as well but suicide squad took the cake in my opinion. 
Can you guys recommend any movies which you think have very sharp details like that .


----------



## rjyap

tnaik4 said:


> So guys if i just get get a fengmi T1 chinese version and use projectivi mod if i m not mistaken, would it be the same as the global version ?
> It is just more cms settings and android? If so than thats not much for the extra cost, and i m good with tools and moding so no issue there.
> 
> Just not sure if the global version has dtm like Dave is suggesting. I do use MadVR exclusively, but if there is a dtm build in othrr than dv mode than i can see some use for that for streaming.
> 
> Just trying to decide which one to get, i know i ll get one, but which one lol.


If you use MadVR exclusively, I don't see a reason for Global version unless you also stream and play console games. No CMS even with projectivi apk in China version.


----------



## humax

zaselim said:


> So in Fengmi's opinion all for four corner can't be equally focused but they should be clear and if someone has blurry situation going on then it is not a software issue but the hardware issue. So i don't think they will going to work on this problem with the software update.



Someone mentioned a few pages back the ND lens cover on the T1 is removable. Has anybody tried adjusting the focus without it in order to see if it causes any image distortion/softening? Just a thought.


----------



## m0j0

3sprit said:


> @m0j0 What is your screen?


XYScreens PET Crystal ALR 100"


----------



## tnaik4

rjyap said:


> If you use MadVR exclusively, I don't see a reason for Global version unless you also stream and play console games. No CMS even with projectivi apk in China version.


Yeah, but if the global version has better contrast/intra scene contrast like Dave harper is suggesting, than I guess it ll have the slightly better picture, need more info definitely to decide.
Just hope it wont be too long to have these info.

Does it have greyscale offset/gains at least ?


----------



## m0j0

tnaik4 said:


> Yeah, but if the global version has better contrast/intra scene contrast like Dave harper is suggesting, than I guess it ll have the slightly better picture, need more info definitely to decide.
> Just hope it wont be too long to have these info.


No one else has any experience with the Global version at this point, so we can't really say. However, based on what Dave Harper has said so far, and based on the screenshots that were provided comparing the two, it seems that the Global version is capable of better black levels and more accurate colors, once properly calibrated.


----------



## tnaik4

m0j0 said:


> No one else has any experience with the Global version at this point, so we can't really say. However, based on what Dave Harper has said so far, and based on the screenshots that were provided comparing the two, it seems that the Global version is capable of better black levels and more accurate colors, once properly calibrated.


Yeah, my main question will be if thats because it can be calibrated via cms, if thats the case than a 3DLUT in madVR can achieve the same and even better even without a cms.


----------



## rjyap

tnaik4 said:


> Yeah, but if the global version has better contrast/intra scene contrast like Dave harper is suggesting, than I guess it ll have the slightly better picture, need more info definitely to decide.
> Just hope it wont be too long to have these info.
> 
> Does it have greyscale offset/gains at least ?


With Fengmi custom mode, only RGB gains. But it track nicely from 10% to 100% after calibration so RGB offset is not necessary. Projectivity will give u access to RGB offset and gains.


----------



## m0j0

m0j0 said:


> For those interested, here's the settings I've been using the past few days. My kids seem to really enjoy watching their HD kids shows with these, and I like the black levels for adult movies at night as well.
> 
> T1 settings when watching on the Roku Ultra, set as 4K only (Rec 709/no HDR, no DV):
> Brightness Mode: View Mode (daytime/evening viewing with lights on) or Night Mode (with all lights off)
> Image Parameters:
> Brightness: 50
> Contrast: 45 (up to 48 seems to be excellent, so have to experiment to see which is better)
> Saturation: 48
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 51
> Color: Custom
> Red: 1090 (revised down from 1235, see note at bottom)
> Green: 1024
> Blue: 927
> 
> For my Zidoo Z9X and Sony X800M2, I am still forcing DV and using LLDV via the Vrroom (170 nits DV settings) with the following settings on the T1 (I only watch movies at night, so these settings are mainly for that use case):
> 
> Brightness Mode: Depends (some movies look better at night with Night Mode, like Dune, and some look better with View Mode, like Encanto, so test it out and see which way you prefer based on the movie/content)
> Image Parameters:
> Brightness: 50
> Contrast: 57 (57 is great for most movies, especially darker/low light movies, but I sometimes push this up to 60 for really bright/colorful movies)
> Saturation: 48
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 51
> Color: Custom
> Red: 1090 (revised down from 1235, see note at bottom)
> Green: 1024
> Blue: 927
> 
> EDIT:
> Seems I was a bit too aggressive with Red. I was checking some greyscale test patterns and it had a red tint to it. I have lowered the Red down to 1090 and that seems to be playing more nicely with the greyscale. I also was able to up the contrast from 45 to 48 on the Roku after this change, so now I have to test which way I like better....


Pulling back on red (to 1090) and slightly increasing contrast (to 47) did result in more natural skin tones. Pretty happy with the results so far.


----------



## antjes

rjyap said:


> If you use MadVR exclusively, I don't see a reason for Global version unless you also stream and play console games. No CMS even with projectivi apk in China version.


As far as my eyes can see, china version with projectivity has a CMS, at least I can calibrate my T1 in user mode: RGB gain + RGB offset. Change speed is very low but effective
Other thing is how to calibrate....

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## antjes

rjyap said:


> With Fengmi custom mode, only RGB gains. But it track nicely from 10% to 100% after calibration so RGB offset is not necessary. Projectivity will give u access to RGB offset and gains.


Ok.
So I understand that china version does not give full CMS, gamma control I think I'm missing.
I'm telling this from my ignorance so thanks for your support.

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## JereyWolf

m0j0 said:


> Pulling back on red (to 1090) and slightly increasing contrast (to 47) did result in more natural skin tones. Pretty happy with the results so far.





m0j0 said:


> Pulling back on red (to 1090) and slightly increasing contrast (to 47) did result in more natural skin tones. Pretty happy with the results so far.


One thing that I definitely see on mine frequently is the overextended dark blue. It's not terrible...but noticeable and seem to hit really hard on certain shades of blue. 

Specifically here on the guy's robe, image 3467.


----------



## m0j0

JereyWolf said:


> One thing that I definitely see on mine frequently is the overextended dark blue. It's not terrible...but noticeable and seem to hit really hard on certain shades of blue.
> 
> Specifically here on the guy's robe, image 3467.


My phone frequently oversaturates blue as well, so it doesn't really look the same as I am seeing on screen.


----------



## Dave Harper

tnaik4 said:


> Just not sure if the global version has dtm like Dave is suggesting.


It does, and does it well. 



tnaik4 said:


> Yeah, but if the global version has better contrast/intra scene contrast like Dave harper is suggesting, than I guess it ll have the slightly better picture, need more info definitely to decide.
> Just hope it wont be too long to have these info.
> 
> Does it have greyscale offset/gains at least ?


You can easily see the better shadow details and sharper images down low when we compared many scenes in the S&M disc, like the desert valley at dusk scene. 



m0j0 said:


> No one else has any experience with the Global version at this point, so we can't really say. However, based on what Dave Harper has said so far, and based on the screenshots that were provided comparing the two, it seems that the Global version is capable of better black levels and more accurate colors, once properly calibrated.


It automatically downloaded a new firmware when I did the latest calibration and testing here at my house. It’s gotten even better!


----------



## m0j0

Dave Harper said:


> It does, and does it well.
> 
> 
> 
> You can easily see the better shadow details and sharper images down low when we compared many scenes in the S&M disc, like the desert valley at dusk scene.
> 
> 
> 
> It automatically downloaded a new firmware when I did the latest calibration and testing here at my house. It’s gotten even better!


That’s awesome news! What is the new firmware version?


----------



## JereyWolf

I finally took the time to run a white balance calibration and adjust my brightness and contrast based on 1% & 2% moving bar patterns. The final settings ended up being:
Custom mode
View brightness
brightness 48
contrast 46
saturation, sharpness and tone all default 50. 
Custom color, R-1024, G-1041, B-870


----------



## kraine

error


----------



## kraine

m0j0 said:


> No one else has any experience with the Global version at this point, so we can't really say. However, based on what Dave Harper has said so far, and based on the screenshots that were provided comparing the two, it seems that the Global version is capable of better black levels and more accurate colors, once properly calibrated.


It's soon gona change


----------



## m0j0

JereyWolf said:


> I finally took the time to run a white balance calibration and adjust my brightness and contrast based on 1% & 2% moving bar patterns. The final settings ended up being:
> Custom mode
> View brightness
> brightness 48
> contrast 46
> saturation, sharpness and tone all default 50.
> Custom color, R-1024, G-1041, B-870
> View attachment 3292776
> View attachment 3292777
> View attachment 3292778
> View attachment 3292779
> View attachment 3292780
> View attachment 3292781
> View attachment 3292782


Thanks for sharing!


----------



## ProFragger

zaselim said:


> Mine is at the left corner that looks less focused than the rest of the corners which I talked about a lot a month or one and half month ago. I emailed the fengmi support back and forth and the only conclusion they came up with that if i don't notice it on movies and stuff and fine with it outside of it then i should try to live with it or apply for replacement. So for a replacement i had to send the unit to China at my cost which was around 250usd, and to me the issue wasn't that bad for me to spend that much money for the replacement as i only notice it on focus screen or on a text around the edge of top left corner. And from where i sit it looks better so i decided to live with it.
> So in Fengmi's opinion all for four corner can't be equally focused but they should be clear and if someone has blurry situation going on then it is not a software issue but the hardware issue. So i don't think they will going to work on this problem with the software update.
> View attachment 3292630


Thanks for sharing man... Same boat as you. Guess we live with it and experience the downside of ordering the Chinese unit 😢... Unless someone ever figures out the hardware adjustment that needs to be made and we follow the guide and fix it ourselves.... Looks like a QC issue.

I've never owned a projector before, so not sure if it's true that all 4 corners are impossible to focus?


----------



## ProFragger

humax said:


> Someone mentioned a few pages back the ND lens cover on the T1 is removable. Has anybody tried adjusting the focus without it in order to see if it causes any image distortion/softening? Just a thought.


I don't even know where that is LOL. Is it the black cover that comes loose for some people?


----------



## Dave Harper

m0j0 said:


> That’s awesome news! What is the new firmware version?


The version number? Why would that matter if nobody really has one yet?


----------



## humax

ProFragger said:


> I don't even know where that is LOL. Is it the black cover that comes loose for some people?



Yes. Someone mentioned it is removable and by taking it off got him something like a 4% brightness gain. Could it also be causing even the tiniest optical distortion?


----------



## ProFragger

humax said:


> Yes. Someone mentioned it is removable and by taking it off got him something like a 4% brightness gain. Could it also be causing even the tiniest optical distortion?


Wish they had documented for the less initiated like me 😅! Hope someone else finds some courage 😊...


----------



## ProFragger

My AV aficionados and Fengmi owners - are my eyes broken? Why do I prefer the picture on the right? Cannot be just the slightly more saturated colors, is it? 😅


----------



## humax

ProFragger said:


> My AV aficionados and Fengmi owners - are my eyes broken? Why do I prefer the picture on the right? Cannot be just the slightly more saturated colors, is it?




A brighter and more colorful picture always draws the untrained eye. It is only natural for most of us. This is also the reason many people are not fans of a calibrated image, which is only saturated when it needs to be, according to the filmmaker's intent. Image fidelity is not always visually attractive, but whatever works for everyone I guess.


----------



## zaselim

humax said:


> Someone mentioned a few pages back the ND lens cover on the T1 is removable. Has anybody tried adjusting the focus without it in order to see if it causes any image distortion/softening? Just a thought.


Yeah some had it de-attached the lens cover glass when they got their T1 but normally it is attached by some kind glue or something so I wouldn't recommend to remove the glass as the actual lens inside the projector will be vulnerable to dust or basically anything that can effect the lens.


----------



## zaselim

ProFragger said:


> My AV aficionados and Fengmi owners - are my eyes broken? Why do I prefer the picture on the right? Cannot be just the slightly more saturated colors, is it? 😅


The left one looks better in colors, detail, clarity, contrast, well practically in every way as far as i can see.


----------



## zaselim

Dave Harper said:


> The version number? Why would that matter if nobody really has one yet?


So one can ask Fengmi (by mentioning the update version number) if there is going to be one(update with improvements) for the Chinese model.


----------



## ProFragger

zaselim said:


> Yeah some had it de-attached the lens cover glass when they got their T1 but normally it is attached by some kind glue or something so I wouldn't recommend to remove the glass as the actual lens inside the projector will be vulnerable to dust or basically anything that can effect the lens.


But did it fix the focus issue? I agree, shouldn't remove, may need better adhesion?


----------



## zaselim

ProFragger said:


> But did it fix the focus issue? I agree, shouldn't remove, may need better adhesion?


The only thing that guy mentioned is the brightness increase by 4% if i remember correctly. Is you top right corner that bad? Mine left corner looks ok as you can see in the picture i posted, it just looks less clear than the rest. I can even read the tiniest test from where i sit (around 13 feet away).


----------



## ProFragger

zaselim said:


> The left one looks better in colors, detail, clarity, contrast, well practically in every way as far as i can see.


Guess you have that trained eye, friend 😊. I acknowledge the tone mapping with reds exaggerated on the right, but the details, clarity didn't look egregious to me with the T1. Now that I have the Vertex2 and @m0j0 helping us, the colors do look natural and contrast and details improved.. 😬.

Appreciate your input.


----------



## m0j0

Dave Harper said:


> The version number? Why would that matter if nobody really has one yet?


Just for reference I suppose.


----------



## jeff9n

ProFragger said:


> My AV aficionados and Fengmi owners - are my eyes broken? Why do I prefer the picture on the right? Cannot be just the slightly more saturated colors, is it? 😅


The left picture is more accurate. You can see lobster skin color for the right picture.


----------



## m0j0

JereyWolf said:


> I finally took the time to run a white balance calibration and adjust my brightness and contrast based on 1% & 2% moving bar patterns. The final settings ended up being:
> Custom mode
> View brightness
> brightness 48
> contrast 46
> saturation, sharpness and tone all default 50.
> Custom color, R-1024, G-1041, B-870
> View attachment 3292776
> View attachment 3292777
> View attachment 3292778
> View attachment 3292779
> View attachment 3292780
> View attachment 3292781
> View attachment 3292782


I tried your settings out and, I have to say, they look great! Nice work sir!


----------



## clipghost

ProFragger said:


> My AV aficionados and Fengmi owners - are my eyes broken? Why do I prefer the picture on the right? Cannot be just the slightly more saturated colors, is it? 😅


Global version looks good!


----------



## slickrock

zaselim said:


> Yeah some had it de-attached the lens cover glass when they got their T1 but normally it is attached by some kind glue or something so I wouldn't recommend to remove the glass as the actual lens inside the projector will be vulnerable to dust or basically anything that can effect the lens.


Anyone who owns/owned a Hisense L9P knows the projector has no mirror cover. They provide tools to keep the optical mirror and area clean. I've ran my T1 for months now this way without problems and use an air bulb once to keep it clean. 

Regarding OPs question regarding the cover affecting focus: since it is an ND flat filter, there will be refraction distortions such as CA. However light bouncing back from internal reflections I feel reduces contrast slightly. That said, removing the filter it does not improve the nominal upper left corner focus issues on projector. I'm inclined to take the plunge at some point and open the box and look at the the mirror and optical path ands see if anything could be tweaked.


----------



## ProFragger

slickrock said:


> Anyone who owns/owned a Hisense L9P knows the projector has no mirror cover. They provide tools to keep the optical mirror and area clean. I've ran my T1 for months now this way without problems and use an air bulb once to keep it clean.
> 
> Regarding OPs question regarding the cover affecting focus: since it is an ND flat filter, there will be refraction distortions such as CA. However light bouncing back from internal reflections I feel reduces contrast slightly. That said, removing the filter it does not improve the nominal upper left corner focus issues on projector. I'm inclined to take the plunge at some point and open the box and look at the the mirror and optical path ands see if anything could be tweaked.


Thanks for the education! I don't know how risky it would be for you to take the plunge with the surgery you mentioned, but if you do find something useful, it would further a lot of us for improvement in this community for that focus blur issue. So thank you if you do attempt it!


----------



## ProFragger

I know some members are fans of ATV4K... Nice deal here, I think, if you need one:





__





Apple TV 4K 32GB (2nd Generation) Black MXGY2LL/A - Best Buy


Shop Apple TV 4K 32GB (2nd Generation) Black at Best Buy. Find low everyday prices and buy online for delivery or in-store pick-up. Price Match Guarantee.




www.bestbuy.com


----------



## mcusman2012

m0j0 said:


> I tried your settings out and, I have to say, they look great! Nice work sir!


Why you dont use projectivy tools for RGB adjustment? Is adjusting RGB from fengOS and projectivy the same? So if you switch from fengos to projectivy you loose the RGB settings?

I am still unable to understand your vrroom settings. Sorry im new to vrroom. You are adjusting both the DV tab and custom HDR tab. Isnt DV tab adjustment enough and clicking " send DV" in DV tab do the job? You are adjusting DV tab for your sony BD player and custom HDR tab for zidoo LLDV? Please correct me since i only use zidoo LLDV mode. Secondly what about ✔ the DV box and HDR box in automix mode tab? You checking on both?


----------



## JereyWolf

mcusman2012 said:


> Why you dont use projectivy tools for RGB adjustment? Is adjusting RGB from fengOS and projectivy the same? So if you switch from fengos to projectivy you loose the RGB settings?
> 
> I am still unable to understand your vrroom settings. Sorry im new to vrroom. You are adjusting both the DV tab and custom HDR tab. Isnt DV tab adjustment enough and clicking " send DV" in DV tab do the job? You are adjusting DV tab for your sony BD player and custom HDR tab for zidoo LLDV? Please correct me since i only use zidoo LLDV mode. Secondly what about ✔ the DV box and HDR box in automix mode tab? You checking on both?


The reason I'm not using Projectivy is because of needing to fix the HDMI handshake issue so often....which I don't believe there is a way to switch HDMI format using Projectivy internal viewer....and also the way that dynamic contrast seems to turn on by itself sometimes, I don’t know an easy way to switch that off in the Projectivy viewer. 

For me, I got a really solid calibration result using only the FengOS gain controls.


----------



## m0j0

mcusman2012 said:


> Why you dont use projectivy tools for RGB adjustment? Is adjusting RGB from fengOS and projectivy the same? So if you switch from fengos to projectivy you loose the RGB settings?
> 
> I am still unable to understand your vrroom settings. Sorry im new to vrroom. You are adjusting both the DV tab and custom HDR tab. Isnt DV tab adjustment enough and clicking " send DV" in DV tab do the job? You are adjusting DV tab for your sony BD player and custom HDR tab for zidoo LLDV? Please correct me since i only use zidoo LLDV mode. Secondly what about ✔ the DV box and HDR box in automix mode tab? You checking on both?


Agree with @JereyWolf in that it is kind of a pain to fix the hdmi handshake issue when using ProjectIvy, and it happens often enough to make me not want to deal with the hassle.

As for the Vrroom question, I don't think the HD tab settings are used for LLDV, but I set it up as others have just in case it does have some affect on the picture. There's a pretty long thread about this type of setup that you can check out for more details: Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...


----------



## m0j0

So, took some pics with my recent settings, which I was just really eyeballing anyway, and @JereyWolf's new settings that I was trying out last night (all these pics are on the Roku Ultra in 4k SDR). I think they are very similar in a lot of regards, but you can see in most of the pictures that Jerey's are just a bit better. Also, in person, if feels like there is a bit more brightness than compared to when I was running with contrast lower and in night mode vs. his setup with view mode. Still checking things out on these settings with the Vrroom for LLDV, as they did feel less bright than what I was using, but I probably just need to adjust contrast a bit to get where I want to go, so we will see how that goes.

1st pic is my previous settings, 2nd pic is @JereyWolf settings:


----------



## okvcos

Pr


m0j0 said:


> So, took some pics with my recent settings, which I was just really eyeballing anyway, and @JereyWolf's new settings that I was trying out last night (all these pics are on the Roku Ultra in 4k SDR). I think they are very similar in a lot of regards, but you can see in most of the pictures that Jerey's are just a bit better. Also, in person, if feels like there is a bit more brightness than compared to when I was running with contrast lower and in night mode vs. his setup with view mode. Still checking things out on these settings with the Vrroom for LLDV, as they did feel less bright than what I was using, but I probably just need to adjust contrast a bit to get where I want to go, so we will see how that goes.


Try Strange Thing 3 episode 1 minute 19:11, Mrs. Wheller's costume must be cyan magenta, and a few frames before the red umbrella


----------



## JereyWolf

m0j0 said:


> So, took some pics with my recent settings, which I was just really eyeballing anyway, and @JereyWolf's new settings that I was trying out last night (all these pics are on the Roku Ultra in 4k SDR). I think they are very similar in a lot of regards, but you can see in most of the pictures that Jerey's are just a bit better. Also, in person, if feels like there is a bit more brightness than compared to when I was running with contrast lower and in night mode vs. his setup with view mode. Still checking things out on these settings with the Vrroom for LLDV, as they did feel less bright than what I was using, but I probably just need to adjust contrast a bit to get where I want to go, so we will see how that goes.
> 
> 1st pic is my previous settings, 2nd pic is @JereyWolf settings:
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It's wild how good you got it by just eyeballing!


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## Dave Harper

m0j0 said:


> …….As for the Vrroom question, I don't think the HD tab settings are used for LLDV, but I set it up as others have just in case it does have some affect on the picture....


It kind of depends on the source from what others have reported. In my experience the Max Luminance box setting does have a substantial affect on the image, along with what’s set in the DV Data Block Tab.


----------



## mcusman2012

Dave Harper said:


> It kind of depends on the source from what others have reported. In my experience the Max Luminance box setting does have a substantial affect on the image, along with what’s set in the DV Data Block Tab.


I think its the other way round. If you tick the box of "use custom hdr when input is LLDV" then DV signal is removed from source and your DV tab block which you have edited/made is not applied. For the DV data block to be applied you should not tick the custom HDR box. And even for DV data block to be applied you have to check the DV box in automix mode and select custom. See pic below. Please correct me if i am wrongly using this device.


----------



## Dave Harper

mcusman2012 said:


> I think its the other way round. If you tick the box of "use custom hdr when input is LLDV" then DV signal is removed from source and your DV tab block which you have edited/made is not applied. For the DV data block to be applied you should not tick the custom HDR box. And even for DV data block to be applied you have to check the DV box in automix mode and select custom. See pic below. Please correct me if i am wrongly using this device.
> View attachment 3293326


This is not true at all. I’m the one who discovered this tweak btw. 

You have to click the “Use Custom HDR when input is LLDV” when using LLDV so that your display goes into its HDR10 mode by seeing the metadata that’s generated by doing so. 

I have found that some displays, namely a lot of the USTs, do in fact recognize the LLDV signal as an HDR format, and thus switch into that mode regardless though. 

Which device is that picture from?


----------



## mcusman2012

Dave Harper said:


> This is not true at all. I’m the one who discovered this tweak btw.
> 
> You have to click the “Use Custom HDR when input is LLDV” when using LLDV so that your display goes into its HDR10 mode by seeing the metadata that’s generated by doing so.
> 
> I have found that some displays, namely a lot of the USTs, do in fact recognize the LLDV signal as an HDR format, and thus switch into that mode regardless though.
> 
> Which device is that picture from?


Its 8k vrroom interface which @m0j0 also has. I dont think you can give 4 luminance values(2 in HDR tab and 2 in DV tab). Only one pair of luminanace value will be applied depending upon which box check when input is LLDV.


----------



## ProFragger

m0j0 said:


> So, took some pics with my recent settings, which I was just really eyeballing anyway, and @JereyWolf's new settings that I was trying out last night (all these pics are on the Roku Ultra in 4k SDR). I think they are very similar in a lot of regards, but you can see in most of the pictures that Jerey's are just a bit better. Also, in person, if feels like there is a bit more brightness than compared to when I was running with contrast lower and in night mode vs. his setup with view mode. Still checking things out on these settings with the Vrroom for LLDV, as they did feel less bright than what I was using, but I probably just need to adjust contrast a bit to get where I want to go, so we will see how that goes.
> 
> 1st pic is my previous settings, 2nd pic is @JereyWolf settings:
> 
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Shout out to @JereyWolf!

@m0j0 what are the additions on top of your last settings shared? I also sent you a DM on a scene to check out 😊.

Can you and @JereyWolf confirm the Dynamic Contrast turning on automatically? I noticed too, but no one said anything LOL!


----------



## antjes

ProFragger said:


> Shout out to @JereyWolf!
> 
> @m0j0 what are the additions on top of your last settings shared? I also sent you a DM on a scene to check out .
> 
> Can you and @JereyWolf confirm the Dynamic Contrast turning on automatically? I noticed too, but no one said anything LOL!


I asked several pages ago for option in projectivity to turn off dinamyc contrast. I had the impression that It was on sometimes. But After a lot of tests I discarted It, in my case under projectivity is off (fingers crosses)
Last days I'm not using projectivity anymore, I used It only for DV but I found that 99% T1 is doing an excelent job in DV but there are some scenes in which T1 is not doing a right work, and is mapping because I cant modify with brgtness or contrast in projectivity. So finally I find HDR(once calibrated) better than DV 

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

mcusman2012 said:


> Its 8k vrroom interface which @m0j0 also has. I dont think you can give 4 luminance values(2 in HDR tab and 2 in DV tab). Only one pair of luminanace value will be applied depending upon which box check when input is LLDV.


I’m corn-fused???


----------



## m0j0

ProFragger said:


> Shout out to @JereyWolf!
> 
> @m0j0 what are the additions on top of your last settings shared? I also sent you a DM on a scene to check out 😊.
> 
> Can you and @JereyWolf confirm the Dynamic Contrast turning on automatically? I noticed too, but no one said anything LOL!


My dynamic contrast doesn't turn on automatically unless I am messing around in the settings menu, then sometimes it does, but I usually just check every time to make sure it didn't turn on when I was changing settings.


----------



## JereyWolf

ProFragger said:


> Shout out to @JereyWolf!
> 
> @m0j0 what are the additions on top of your last settings shared? I also sent you a DM on a scene to check out 😊.
> 
> Can you and @JereyWolf confirm the Dynamic Contrast turning on automatically? I noticed too, but no one said anything LOL!


I'm not sure if this is the only cause, but I know that I've seen dynamic contrast turn on when switching to other picture modes and then coming back to custom.


----------



## m0j0

ProFragger said:


> Shout out to @JereyWolf!
> 
> @m0j0 what are the additions on top of your last settings shared? I also sent you a DM on a scene to check out 😊.
> 
> Can you and @JereyWolf confirm the Dynamic Contrast turning on automatically? I noticed too, but no one said anything LOL!


No additions really. I kept my sharpness at 22, but used all of the other settings indicated by @JereyWolf. I did note that during the daytime, I need to increase brightness to about 59-60, but only when there's a good amount of ambient light. Once it gets to the afternoon/evening, I switch it back to 48 brightness and it looks great!


----------



## ProFragger

m0j0 said:


> No additions really. I kept my sharpness at 22, but used all of the other settings indicated by @JereyWolf. I did note that during the daytime, I need to increase brightness to about 59-60, but only when there's a good amount of ambient light. Once it gets to the afternoon/evening, I switch it back to 48 brightness and it looks great!


Thanks, gonna scan the thread to see what @JereyWolf added/recommended... Thanks to both of you!


----------



## JereyWolf

m0j0 said:


> No additions really. I kept my sharpness at 22, but used all of the other settings indicated by @JereyWolf. I did note that during the daytime, I need to increase brightness to about 59-60, but only when there's a good amount of ambient light. Once it gets to the afternoon/evening, I switch it back to 48 brightness and it looks great!


That makes sense. When I got the setting of 48 it was using the moving black bar pattern and my room was totally dark.


----------



## dr_casper

what screen are you guys pairing this with ? looking for a 110-120" for a bright room. tia


----------



## humax

dr_casper said:


> what screen are you guys pairing this with ? looking for a 110-120" for a bright room. tia



Vividstorm floor rising screen and XY PET Crystal seem quite popular with T1 users.


----------



## m0j0

Will do more testing, but this is what I came up with for my Zidoo Z9X that is configured to use LLDV on the T1 using @JereyWolf's settings as a baseline:

170 nits on the DV tab for Max Luminance (no changes from previous posting of the Vrroom settings)
Brightness Mode: View Mode
Image Properties:
Brightness: 48
Contrast: 71
Saturation: 43
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 50
Color: Custom
Red: 1024
Green: 1041
Blue: 870


----------



## m0j0

A few quick snaps of Encanto on the Z9X (I was in a rush so didn't take the best pics here)


----------



## mcusman2012

Got the right hit now with 8k vrroom. And wow. The tone mapping is much better now than default. Actually i was using @m0j0 settings but was only selecting either the DV tab or the HDR(i thought only to use one setting depending on content, but NO, all the 4 luminance values of both HDR and DV gives that secret tone mapping sauce). Thanks @m0j0 for my 8kvrroom settings since your devices are similar to mine(zidoo and 8kvrroom). Vrroom is a complex device. I was gonna sell it to buy cheaper switch. But now its never gonna happen. Also i am not using the projectivy launcher anymore as its not needed now. I can change all settings with projector default







. ( Sorry for my cheap bad camera and left side screen wrinkles).


----------



## m0j0

mcusman2012 said:


> Got the right hit now with 8k vrroom. And wow. The tone mapping is much better now than default. Actually i was using @m0j0 settings but was only selecting either the DV tab or the HDR(i thought only to use one setting depending on content, but NO, all the 4 luminance values of both HDR and DV gives that secret tone mapping sauce). Thanks @m0j0 for my 8kvrroom settings since your devices are similar to mine(zidoo and 8kvrroom). Vrroom is a complex device. I was gonna sell it to buy cheaper switch. But now its never gonna happen. Also i am not using the projectivy launcher anymore as its not needed now. I can change all settings with projector default
> View attachment 3293842
> . ( Sorry for my cheap bad camera and left side screen wrinkles).


Nice!


----------



## antjes

mcusman2012 said:


> Got the right hit now with 8k vrroom. And wow. The tone mapping is much better now than default. Actually i was using @m0j0 settings but was only selecting either the DV tab or the HDR(i thought only to use one setting depending on content, but NO, all the 4 luminance values of both HDR and DV gives that secret tone mapping sauce). Thanks @m0j0 for my 8kvrroom settings since your devices are similar to mine(zidoo and 8kvrroom). Vrroom is a complex device. I was gonna sell it to buy cheaper switch. But now its never gonna happen. Also i am not using the projectivy launcher anymore as its not needed now. I can change all settings with projector default
> View attachment 3293842
> . ( Sorry for my cheap bad camera and left side screen wrinkles).


Nice to see you have found the magic!
what movie is this?


----------



## Brajesh

Looks like a scene from the live action 'Aladdin'?


----------



## mcusman2012

antjes said:


> Nice to see you have found the magic!
> what movie is this?


Aladdin.....1st opening song......a pretty dark scene with grey/blue/black areas......helps me in calibrating my tone mapping......if you can see everything in this scene(3 camels with a black bush along with back mountain texture) it means your calibration is good......


----------



## ProFragger

mcusman2012 said:


> Got the right hit now with 8k vrroom. And wow. The tone mapping is much better now than default. Actually i was using @m0j0 settings but was only selecting either the DV tab or the HDR(i thought only to use one setting depending on content, but NO, all the 4 luminance values of both HDR and DV gives that secret tone mapping sauce). Thanks @m0j0 for my 8kvrroom settings since your devices are similar to mine(zidoo and 8kvrroom). Vrroom is a complex device. I was gonna sell it to buy cheaper switch. But now its never gonna happen. Also i am not using the projectivy launcher anymore as its not needed now. I can change all settings with projector default
> View attachment 3293842
> . ( Sorry for my cheap bad camera and left side screen wrinkles).


I'm in the same boat as you where my T1 led DV seems much brighter to me, than when Vertex2 is processing. I'm sure I'm doing something wrong cause I too use @m0j0's settings. However, the Vertex2 processing is so much darker and even has this one clip where the video of a star is blown out like crazy! For the longest time I thought it was my player, but then I watched that clip in DV on the T1 led and DV and that clip looked fine (with the star).

Do you mind sharing your secrets with us as well, cause I think I have to be doing something wrong... Appreciate your hard work!


----------



## JereyWolf

ProFragger said:


> I'm in the same boat as you where my T1 led DV seems much brighter to me, than when Vertex2 is processing. I'm sure I'm doing something wrong cause I too use @m0j0's settings. However, the Vertex2 processing is so much darker and even has this one clip where the video of a star is blown out like crazy! For the longest time I thought it was my player, but then I watched that clip in DV on the T1 led and DV and that clip looked fine (with the star).
> 
> Do you mind sharing your secrets with us as well, cause I think I have to be doing something wrong... Appreciate your hard work!


So...I even went back again today to test LLDV from the Shield using the Vrroom and I finally got it to look good, I really liked it. But it required me to ramp up contrast. I turned it all the way up to 100 and the image got very nice and bright with no noticeable clipping on the few scenes I tested.

The biggest problem with that is, the custom picture settings are shared between SDR and HDR....why would they build it this way? 

The other projectors I've had that I liked the HDR image from had separate picture settings when HDR mode was enabled... and they required the contrast settings to be near maximum to get the best image.


----------



## antjes

JereyWolf said:


> So...I even went back again today to test LLDV from the Shield using the Vrroom and I finally got it to look good, I really liked it. But it required me to ramp up contrast. I turned it all the way up to 100 and the image got very nice and bright with no noticeable clipping on the few scenes I tested.
> 
> The biggest problem with that is, the custom picture settings are shared between SDR and HDR....why would they build it this way?
> 
> The other projectors I've had that I liked the HDR image from had separate picture settings when HDR mode was enabled... and they required the contrast settings to be near maximum to get the best image.


Use projectivity for SDR and FengOs for HDR.


----------



## antjes

mcusman2012 said:


> Aladdin.....1st opening song......a pretty dark scene with grey/blue/black areas......helps me in calibrating my tone mapping......if you can see everything in this scene(3 camels with a black bush along with back mountain texture) it means your calibration is good......


Thanks.
I will try later


----------



## JereyWolf

antjes said:


> Use projectivity for SDR and FengOs for HDR.


Sure that's an option....but quite a hassle to to have to enable projectivy internal viewer every time you switch between SDR and HDR...especially because my HDMI/CEC issue with the Shield always waking up whenever I open the HDMI selection menu on the projector the fact that projectivy doesn't currently provide the ability to fix the HDMI 1.4/2.0 problem. 

Honestly, I'm perfectly happy with using exclusively SDR at the moment, but I just wonder why Fengmi wouldn't have built separate Custom picture modes for HDR and SDR....

@Dave Harper Does the Global version of the T1, have separate custom picture controls for HDR and SDR?


----------



## rjyap

Please send email to Fengmi support. I have requested them to add Custom1 and Custom2.


----------



## antjes

JereyWolf said:


> Sure that's an option....but quite a hassle to to have to enable projectivy internal viewer every time you switch between SDR and HDR..
> 
> 
> @Dave Harper Does the Global version of the T1, have separate custom picture controls for HDR and SDR?


It’s not necesary to enable internal viewer every time.
If you want to see HDR go to HDMI Input via FengOs, if you want to play SDR enter in projectivity and select input. 
Difficulty: 1 click buttom.
Once you calíbrate for both SDR and HDR, you will not need to tweak anything, just choose the way to select input.


----------



## mcusman2012

antjes said:


> Use projectivity for SDR and FengOs for HDR.


I use the feng OS for both. I use movie mode for sdr content which looks fine and custom mode for HDR. No need to switch launcher.


----------



## mcusman2012

ProFragger said:


> I'm in the same boat as you where my T1 led DV seems much brighter to me, than when Vertex2 is processing. I'm sure I'm doing something wrong cause I too use @m0j0's settings. However, the Vertex2 processing is so much darker and even has this one clip where the video of a star is blown out like crazy! For the longest time I thought it was my player, but then I watched that clip in DV on the T1 led and DV and that clip looked fine (with the star).
> 
> Do you mind sharing your secrets with us as well, cause I think I have to be doing something wrong... Appreciate your hard work!


Its not a secret. As i said i used all 4 luminance values in 8kvrroom as @m0j0 shared in his settings picture. After doing that i enabled DV custom from automix tab. The mistake i was doing was enabling only one setting(either HDR or DV). but in fact both should be enabled. See below pics.


----------



## m0j0

Edit: I revised the contrast down some on the Zidoo Z9X, but now I'm able to keep it in View Mode brightness, regardless of movie, so I think that is an improvement.

Spent some more time testing LLDV on the Z9X and testing with the Spears and Munsil disc on my Sony X800M2. I am now running the DV tab on the Vrroom at 1,000 nits. Here's the settings I was testing out last night (all based on @JereyWolf's calibrated SDR settings he shared recently)

Vrroom
HDR tab:
Max Luminance: 10000
Min Luminance: 0
MaxCLL: 1000
MaxFALL: 400

DV tab:
Max Luminance: 1000
Min Luminance: 0.057

Zidoo Z9X (set to 12 bit LLDV)
T1 settings:
Brightness Mode View Mode
Image Settings: Custom
Brightness: 48
Contrast: 58 (revised down from 61)
Saturation: 43
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 50
Color: Custom
Red: 1024
Green: 1041
Blue: 870

Sony X800M2 (Dolby Vision set to On)
Brightness Mode (View Mode)
Image Settings: Custom
Brightness: 48
Contrast: 48
Saturation: 43
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 50
Color: Custom
Red: 1024
Green: 1041
Blue: 870

Edit: Adding in the Roku Ultra settings as well

Roku Ultra (set to 4k 60Hz, no HDR and no DV)
Brightness Mode (View Mode)
Image Settings: Custom
Brightness: 48
Contrast: 46
Saturation: 43
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 50
Color: Custom
Red: 1024
Green: 1041
Blue: 870


----------



## antjes

mcusman2012 said:


> I use the feng OS for both. I use movie mode for sdr content which looks fine and custom mode for HDR. No need to switch launcher.


Congratulations!

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## m0j0

Some pictures from last night's testing


----------



## tnaik4

m0j0 said:


> Some pictures from last night's testing


Great pictures, i cant wait to get mine and put it to full tests with MadVR / 3DLUts.
Should be a stunning picture.


----------



## mphilamp

Question for @m0j0 or any person knowing the subject well.

What would be the best approach to have the best calibration possible on this marvelous T1?

Is that approach valid? :

for SDR :
1/ apply a basic first calibration on the T1
2/ having a HDFURY / MadVR device on which I can apply 3DLUTs (which device on the market ?)
3/ having a color calibration (UST compatible) device that generates the 3DLUT accordingly so that I get a very low delta (< 3) ? is that possible ?

and then redo the process for a LLDV or HDR stream ?
(and so, in daily use, making sure to switch the right 1/ calibration anytime I go from LLDV / HDR to HDR and the other way)

Any help appreciated.


----------



## okvcos

antjes said:


> It’s not necesary to enable internal viewer every time.
> If you want to see HDR go to HDMI Input via FengOs, if you want to play SDR enter in projectivity and select input.
> Difficulty: 1 click buttom.
> Once you calíbrate for both SDR and HDR, you will not need to tweak anything, just choose the way to select input.


 Thanks, could you be clearer with some photos or slides of the various steps, would it be of great help? A thousand thanks


----------



## antjes

okvcos said:


> Thanks, could you be clearer with some photos or slides of the various steps, would it be of great help? A thousand thanks


Look at my message some pages ago...








Formovie Fengmi T1


I understand that not everyone needs precise color settings in the android menu of T2? Has anyone asked in technical support how to find the exact image settings in android? Perhaps it is possible for T1 to call all the settings of the hidden android, via ADB with a special command from the...




www.avsforum.com





The thing here is how you select HDMI Input.

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## m0j0

mphilamp said:


> Question for @m0j0 or any person knowing the subject well.
> 
> What would be the best approach to have the best calibration possible on this marvelous T1?
> 
> Is that approach valid? :
> 
> for SDR :
> 1/ apply a basic first calibration on the T1
> 2/ having a HDFURY / MadVR device on which I can apply 3DLUTs (which device on the market ?)
> 3/ having a color calibration (UST compatible) device that generates the 3DLUT accordingly so that I get a very low delta (< 3) ? is that possible ?
> 
> and then redo the process for a LLDV or HDR stream ?
> (and so, in daily use, making sure to switch the right 1/ calibration anytime I go from LLDV / HDR to HDR and the other way)
> 
> Any help appreciated.


Do you have a dedicated PC capable of running MadVR? Believe you would need that for 3DLUT. Otherwise, you can purchase an HDFury device if you want a way to do some tone mapping for HDR/DV content, though if you just want to do everything in 4K SDR, you can get by without any of those things. Not sure if you have calibration equipment or experience, but if you don’t, I would just borrow the settings from others and try them out. I think you willl find them to be quite good.


----------



## ProFragger

mcusman2012 said:


> Its not a secret. As i said i used all 4 luminance values in 8kvrroom as @m0j0 shared in his settings picture. After doing that i enabled DV custom from automix tab. The mistake i was doing was enabling only one setting(either HDR or DV). but in fact both should be enabled. See below pics.


Thank you! I think I have the DV and HDR tabs right. However, Vertex2 has a different screen for EDID set up. Can you @m0j0 help me map correctly?


----------



## mirzank

Dave Harper said:


> It kind of depends on the source from what others have reported. In my experience the Max Luminance box setting does have a substantial affect on the image, along with what’s set in the DV Data Block Tab.


Quick question about the international version. Does it have the same handshake issue of hdmi 2.0 and 2.1 as the Chinese version where you need to switch from 1.6 to 2.1 or whatever to get it right. Or none of that issue ?


----------



## mphilamp

mirzank said:


> Quick question about the international version. Does it have the same handshake issue of hdmi 2.0 and 2.1 as the Chinese version where you need to switch from 1.6 to 2.1 or whatever to get it right. Or none of that issue ?


I have the chinese version and it seems I never had this issue or maybe I did not notice it. How does it manifest ?


----------



## m0j0

ProFragger said:


> Thank you! I think I have the DV and HDR tabs right. However, Vertex2 has a different screen for EDID set up. Can you @m0j0 help me map correctly?


This looks correct to me (though I usually have stereo selected under the audio part).


----------



## donw

JereyWolf said:


> I finally took the time to run a white balance calibration and adjust my brightness and contrast based on 1% & 2% moving bar patterns. The final settings ended up being:
> Custom mode
> View brightness
> brightness 48
> contrast 46
> saturation, sharpness and tone all default 50.
> Custom color, R-1024, G-1041, B-870
> View attachment 3292776
> View attachment 3292777
> View attachment 3292778
> View attachment 3292779
> View attachment 3292780
> View attachment 3292781
> View attachment 3292782


@JereyWolf I have been using your settings for SD and really like them. Have you calibrated your T1 for HDR, yet? I've trying various settings, but I still sometimes get the abnormally bright lips when watching HDR sources. I keep turning down the red, but it's a fine line between not enough red...and those too bright lips in some scenes.


----------



## mphilamp

donw said:


> @JereyWolf I have been using your settings for SD and really like them. Have you calibrated your T1 for HDR, yet? I've trying various settings, but I still sometimes get the abnormally bright lips when watching HDR sources. I keep turning down the red, but it's a fine line between not enough red...and those too bright lips in some scenes.


I got the exact same issue !! _"but it's a fine line between not enough red...and those too bright lips in some scenes. " _-> I can totally relate

In summary :


SDR : VERY GREAT (simply with _view_ brightness mode + _display_ image mode (which is, if I'm not mistaken "natural" mode in Projectivy))
DOLBY VISION : INSANELY GREAT (with Dovi bright or dovi dark) even though sometimes It feels like the white balance changes with dynamic dovi hdr metadata beeing applied from scene to scene.

- HDR10 : those damn too bright lips !!!!!
and maybe I have a partial solution for it, but did not tested a lot and I'm not sure :
start a DV movie (check that it's in dovi bright or dark mode) then stop it, then start your HDR movie, I realized the T1 won't change the previous image mode before dovi triggered. So it keeps some profile of the dovi mode and maybe, I said MAYBE it improves the issue
(you can verify the image mode does not switch back by setting the custom image mode (that seems then to be enabled but is not) and then switch some setting inside , you'll see that the T1 suddenly changes to really be in this mode (whereas before it was still in some color profile of the dovi mode) -> or maybe this whole explanation is wrong and something alse happens)


----------



## Dave Harper

mirzank said:


> Quick question about the international version. Does it have the same handshake issue of hdmi 2.0 and 2.1 as the Chinese version where you need to switch from 1.6 to 2.1 or whatever to get it right. Or none of that issue ?


I don't recall having issues when I had my sources connected directly to the Global T1, but if I recall I did have a bunch of sync issues when I tried looping the HDMI through my Vertex2. i did some quick troubleshooting to see if it was cable related or whatever but I didn't have the time to get into it since I had a review deadline to meet with it. I ended up just taking the Vertex2 out of the chain to complete the review.


----------



## JereyWolf

donw said:


> @JereyWolf I have been using your settings for SD and really like them. Have you calibrated your T1 for HDR, yet? I've trying various settings, but I still sometimes get the abnormally bright lips when watching HDR sources. I keep turning down the red, but it's a fine line between not enough red...and those too bright lips in some scenes.


I'm glad they are working for you!
No, I disable HDR from all my sources and stick with SDR only.


----------



## donw

JereyWolf said:


> I'm glad they are working for you!
> No, I disable HDR from all my sources and stick with SDR only.


If you get a chance and feel like tweaking, please try calibrating HDR10, too. Or do you think the T1 HDR mode just can't be fixed with white balance?


----------



## JereyWolf

donw said:


> If you get a chance and feel like tweaking, please try calibrating HDR10, too. Or do you think the T1 HDR mode just can't be fixed with white balance?


I think HDR can look really good...but from my experience it requires a much higher contrast setting than SDR...and I just don't want to mess with changing settings depending on the content.

I'm perfectly happy with SDR and don't feel like I'm missing anything.


----------



## donw

JereyWolf said:


> I think HDR can look really good...but from my experience it requires a much higher contrast setting than SDR...and I just don't want to mess with changing settings depending on the content.
> 
> I'm perfectly happy with SDR and don't feel like I'm missing anything.


I agree that contrast needs to be higher for HDR, but for me, anything over 52 starts to blow out whites (like clouds) some what.


----------



## JereyWolf

donw said:


> I agree that contrast needs to be higher for HDR, but for me, anything over 52 starts to blow out whites (like clouds) some what.


I should give more context to what I said in my previous post.
The other day, I was using the HDfury to send LLDV from my Nvidia Shield, using a recently posted settings from @m0j0 ...and I was able to put contrast up to 100 without and noticeable clipping and it got very nice and bright.

Then I switched it back to my normal contrast setting and watched the same scene in SDR and it looked about the same to me as the LLDV signal from the Shield lol.

Also...I don't consider it a closed case. I like to tweak too much to not experiment.


----------



## donw

JereyWolf said:


> I should give more context to what I said in my previous post.
> The other day, I was using the HDfury to send LLDV from my Nvidia Shield, using a recently posted settings from @m0j0 ...and I was able to put contrast up to 100 without and noticeable clipping and it got very nice and bright.
> 
> Then I switched it back to my normal contrast setting and watched the same scene in SDR and it looked about the same to me as the LLDV signal from the Shield lol.
> 
> Also...I don't consider it a closed case. I like to tweak too much to not experiment.


I think a lot of us here would love to see a simple (no HDfury) HDR calibration--I know I would! We'd appreciate it.


----------



## m0j0

donw said:


> I think a lot of us here would love to see a simple (no HDfury) HDR calibration--I know I would! We'd appreciate it.


I think it's a question of someone having the right equipment/knowledge to do an HDR calibration on a triple laser UST projector. Not sure who can do that for us.


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> I think it's a question of someone having the right equipment/knowledge to do an HDR calibration on a triple laser UST projector. Not sure who can do that for us.


Oh, I thought JereyWolf had the calibration tools.


----------



## donw

Just thought I'd share my HDR10 settings that have gotten closest so far. These obviously springboard off m0j0's settings:
Ugoos AM6 Plus Android box
T1 settings:
Brightness Mode View Mode
Image Settings: Custom
Brightness: 49
Contrast: 52
Saturation: 43
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 52
Color: Custom
Red: 905
Green: 969
Blue: 775

I do notice the greens are more vivid with these settings than SD with JereyWolf's settings, maybe too vivid?


----------



## m0j0

donw said:


> Just thought I'd share my HDR10 settings that have gotten closest so far. These obviously springboard off m0j0's settings:
> Ugoos AM6 Plus Android box
> T1 settings:
> Brightness Mode View Mode
> Image Settings: Custom
> Brightness: 49
> Contrast: 52
> Saturation: 43
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 52
> Color: Custom
> Red: 905
> Green: 969
> Blue: 775
> 
> I do notice the greens are more vivid with these settings than SD with JereyWolf's settings, maybe too vivid?


Always appreciate when others share their efforts with regard to settings!


----------



## 3sprit

ProFragger said:


> Why do I prefer the picture on the right?


No doubt for me: the winner here is the Global.
More definition, better contrast, more coherent colors.


----------



## JereyWolf

donw said:


> I think a lot of us here would love to see a simple (no HDfury) HDR calibration--I know I would! We'd appreciate it.





donw said:


> Oh, I thought JereyWolf had the calibration tools.


I believe that because we do not have CMS, or 10 point white balance, the only thing we can dial in for HDR is 2 point white balance (which should be nearly identical to the SDR white balance), brightness and contrast. I think that you can dial in brightness and contrast using a few HDR test patterns. 

Check this thread for those HDR test patterns to adjust contrast and brightness. 








HDR10 test patterns set


HDR-10 calibration and test patterns set Mehanik HDR10 calibration and test patterns set HDR-10 calibration and test patterns set is designed and created by group of video enthusiasts. Main author of test patterns: mehanik99. Calibration patterns by me. It's free and provided as is...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## donw

JereyWolf said:


> I believe that because we do not have CMS, or 10 point white balance, the only thing we can dial in for HDR is 2 point white balance (which should be nearly identical to the SDR white balance), brightness and contrast. I think that you can dial in brightness and contrast using a few HDR test patterns.
> 
> Check this thread for those HDR test patterns to adjust contrast and brightness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HDR10 test patterns set
> 
> 
> HDR-10 calibration and test patterns set Mehanik HDR10 calibration and test patterns set HDR-10 calibration and test patterns set is designed and created by group of video enthusiasts. Main author of test patterns: mehanik99. Calibration patterns by me. It's free and provided as is...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


Thanks Jerey. Wow! That's a lot of info and data. I read the first two pages and am lost so far.


----------



## JereyWolf

donw said:


> Thanks Jerey. Wow! That's a lot of info and data. I read the first two pages and am lost so far.


I think that's the natural first step in learning anything new!

Check out the manual too. Page 4-6 are on black and white/color clipping. I think those are the most important to focus on. 









[eng] Manual HDR10 mehanik test patterns.pdf


HDR10 test patterns set: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1m4IBq0euAxamL9ePgfdFuf8_5nLcRwHA Discussion topics: [eng] http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/2943380-hdr10-test-patterns-set.html [rus] http://forum.ixbt.com/topic.cgi?id=62:22809




drive.google.com


----------



## donw

JereyWolf said:


> I think that's the natural first step in learning anything new!
> 
> Check out the manual too. Page 4-6 are on black and white/color clipping. I think those are the most important to focus on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [eng] Manual HDR10 mehanik test patterns.pdf
> 
> 
> HDR10 test patterns set: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1m4IBq0euAxamL9ePgfdFuf8_5nLcRwHA Discussion topics: [eng] http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/2943380-hdr10-test-patterns-set.html [rus] http://forum.ixbt.com/topic.cgi?id=62:22809
> 
> 
> 
> 
> drive.google.com


Yeah, I read the manual, too, but it is not very clear on how to fix whatever issues there are. And for the white balance adjustment, you are supposed to adjust those color "rainbows" until there are no banding? Doesn't really tell how.


----------



## JereyWolf

donw said:


> Yeah, I read the manual, too, but it is not very clear on how to fix whatever issues there are. And for the white balance adjustment, you are supposed to adjust those color "rainbows" until there are no banding? Doesn't really tell how.


Accurate white balance adjustments require measuring equipment (although @m0j0 seems to have a well calibrated set of eyes). They are based on gray patterns at different intervals of input signal...or essentially brightness.
If you don't feel comfortable adjusting it, I'd either go with the warm color profile or try out my RGB values of R1024, G1041, B870. 

I don't understand the color banding test patterns enough to know if adjustments are supposed to made based on them or whether they are just for reference to see how other setting effect them.


----------



## donw

JereyWolf said:


> Accurate white balance adjustments require measuring equipment (although @m0j0 seems to have a well calibrated set of eyes). They are based on gray patterns at different intervals of input signal...or essentially brightness.
> If you don't feel comfortable adjusting it, I'd either go with the warm color profile or try out my RGB values of R1024, G1041, B870.
> 
> I don't understand the color banding test patterns enough to know if adjustments are supposed to made based on them or whether they are just for reference to see how other setting effect them.


I am using your RGB values for SD sources, and I like them a lot. Although the green is less vivid than I'm used to with my old settings (but mine could be too vivid). Of course, the red is too much for HDR sources.


----------



## ProFragger

m0j0 said:


> This looks correct to me (though I usually have stereo selected under the audio part).


Any critique on the Automix or manual EDID selection @m0j0?


----------



## indieke2

I not have the T1, but the Xiaomi C2. I hear and see more people, using SDR over HDR. But in Zidoo Z9 X, if I just output SDR, I not have a good image, colors and contrast. 
A lot of movies, looks very good in HDR/DV, but some also look not satisfying. Like someone put somme light off. Every time I play a 1080 P BD, I find the image mostly more lively. In the time of the analog projectors, we said it had more Intra contrast.


----------



## mirzank

For those that have been in touch with fengmi about firmware etc, have they given any indication if they are working to tweak the colour balance etc further on the Chinese version? Plus any indication they will bring cms to the Chinese version? Also there was something else Dave harper mention about the international version doing better colour adjustments as the picture changes (forgot the technical term). 

Since they clearly got it right on the international version, I can’t see why they can’t tweak the picture on the Chinese version even if they don’t want to bring cms to the Chinese version to maintain the 500$ premium on the international. Other than Ofcourse they intentionally don’t want to fix the Chinese version further.


----------



## Deanodxb

rjyap said:


> I only use Fengmi build in correction screen. My four corner is align to the screen properly. One of the trick I use is adjust the rack height at each leg instead on the projector. If the top edge width is smaller then bottom, then try to tilt up.


If you have access to a laser level it will help immensely. First I set the laser level cross line to top corner of screen on one side, then the other. Aligned the screen to the laser lines. Then screw feet on T1 all the way in on both sides. Turn on T1, with keystone set to zero adjustments. Image will probably overshoot your screen so start to unscrew the legs on the T1 to match the height of your screen. Then position the T1 to align the left and right sides of the image to your screen. Then check the T1 level corner to corner. If it looks good, go in to focus and adjust [it was always to the left for me] to get the corners as sharp as possible.


----------



## Deanodxb

zaselim said:


> Mine is at the left corner that looks less focused than the rest of the corners which I talked about a lot a month or one and half month ago. I emailed the fengmi support back and forth and the only conclusion they came up with that if i don't notice it on movies and stuff and fine with it outside of it then i should try to live with it or apply for replacement. So for a replacement i had to send the unit to China at my cost which was around 250usd, and to me the issue wasn't that bad for me to spend that much money for the replacement as i only notice it on focus screen or on a text around the edge of top left corner. And from where i sit it looks better so i decided to live with it.
> So in Fengmi's opinion all for four corner can't be equally focused but they should be clear and if someone has blurry situation going on then it is not a software issue but the hardware issue. So i don't think they will going to work on this problem with the software update.
> View attachment 3292630


It looks like your screen is not dead flat, especially at the top corners. You'll not be able to get a focus improvement with the screen like that. Can you try and re-tension it or change the screen?


----------



## m0j0

indieke2 said:


> I not have the T1, but the Xiaomi C2. I hear and see more people, using SDR over HDR. But in Zidoo Z9 X, if I just output SDR, I not have a good image, colors and contrast.
> A lot of movies, looks very good in HDR/DV, but some also look not satisfying. Like someone put somme light off. Every time I play a 1080 P BD, I find the image mostly more lively. In the time of the analog projectors, we said it had more Intra contrast.


I find the best picture on the Z9X when set to 12 bit LLDV and using an HDFury device with DV and HDR tabs set appropriately.


----------



## okvcos

m0j0 said:


> I find the best picture on the Z9X when set to 12 bit LLDV and using an HDFury device with DV and HDR tabs set appropriately.


I also have the xiaomi C2, the vertex2 and the zidoo Z9X
I set the Zidoo Z9X to Auto like this. 
SDR comes out in sdr .
HDR in HDR using the settings of the Vertex2 .
DV in LLDV using the settings of Vertex2 .
Unfortunately if I put everything in LLDV 12Bit the HDR signal comes out a little dark, lacks brightness and I have to increase the contrast


----------



## m0j0

okvcos said:


> I also have the xiaomi C2, the vertex2 and the zidoo Z9X
> I set the Zidoo Z9X to Auto like this.
> SDR comes out in sdr .
> HDR in HDR using the settings of the Vertex2 .
> DV in LLDV using the settings of Vertex2 .
> Unfortunately if I put everything in LLDV 12Bit the HDR signal comes out a little dark, lacks brightness and I have to increase the contrast


Thanks for the feedback @okvcos!


----------



## Dave Harper

mirzank said:


> ……Also there was something else Dave harper mention about the international version doing better colour adjustments as the picture changes (forgot the technical term).
> ……….


Hmmmm, dynamic tone mapping maybe?



okvcos said:


> I also have the xiaomi C2, the vertex2 and the zidoo Z9X
> I set the Zidoo Z9X to Auto like this.
> SDR comes out in sdr .
> HDR in HDR using the settings of the Vertex2 .
> DV in LLDV using the settings of Vertex2 .
> Unfortunately if I put everything in LLDV 12Bit the HDR signal comes out a little dark, lacks brightness and I have to increase the contrast


What are your Max Luminance values in the HDR and DV tabs of the Vertex2?


----------



## Odysea

Apologies, I came across a thread/discussion that contained really good information on the global vs China version on here. With $600 difference between the two I would like to read up on it a little more. Does anyone know where I may have found that information previously?


----------



## okvcos

Dave Harper said:


> Hmmmm, dynamic tone mapping maybe?
> 
> 
> 
> What are your Max Luminance values in the HDR and DV tabs of the Vertex2?












IN DV not 170 , but 1000
With 170 nits I have to raise the contrast and 1000 I leave it the same, as for the SDR signal, but however it burns me a little white









Automix

some HDR movies such as Aladin or Black Panther are darker, lacking in brightness and contrast


----------



## donw

More HDR10 tweaking last night. Note that I pushed all the color levels up to somewhat center them around 1000. Not sure if that is really necessary. But by percentage, I decreased the red and blue a little yet again. And note that I increased contrast to 54 because HDR seemed darker than SD. I was able to do that without noticeably blowing out whites. 
Lips are a little less neon (note that only occurs in the occasional strangely lit scene).

Ugoos AM6 Plus Android box
T1 settings:
Brightness Mode View Mode
Image Settings: Custom
Brightness: 49
Contrast: 54
Saturation: 43
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 52
Color: Custom
Red: 990
Green: 1069
Blue: 868


----------



## donw

indieke2 said:


> I not have the T1, but the Xiaomi C2. I hear and see more people, using SDR over HDR. But in Zidoo Z9 X, if I just output SDR, I not have a good image, colors and contrast.
> A lot of movies, looks very good in HDR/DV, but some also look not satisfying. Like someone put somme light off. Every time I play a 1080 P BD, I find the image mostly more lively. In the time of the analog projectors, we said it had more Intra contrast.


On my Ugoos AM6 Plus Android box I can force HDR to SD, but I too notice that the colors are different than when a real SDR source is playing. So forcing HDR to SD is not a good option for me.


----------



## mirzank

Dave Harper said:


> Hmmmm, dynamic tone mapping maybe?


Haha yep that is exactly the thing. I already have a t1 I need a second one, wondering if the additional 500$’ish premium is worth it for the international version for cms and dtm. What are your thoughts ? I want a no hassle ust experience. 

I’m not going to be using a screen, just projecting on a white wall (I previously used a benq 2050a on the wall and was super happy with it so if I get a similar picture but just 4k I’ll be happy). 

Also when do you think the international version will be ready to ship if you can discuss that info.


----------



## Odysea

mirzank said:


> Haha yep that is exactly the thing. I already have a t1 I need a second one, wondering if the additional 500$’ish premium is worth it for the international version for cms and dtm. What are your thoughts ? I want a no hassle ust experience.
> 
> I’m not going to be using a screen, just projecting on a white wall (I previously used a benq 2050a on the wall and was super happy with it so if I get a similar picture but just 4k I’ll be happy).
> 
> Also when do you think the international version will be ready to ship if you can discuss that info.


Projectorscreens website updated from “contact us” to “add to cart” with a 2-3 week from warehouse shipping notice. Not sure if that actually means anything, but I’m also curious about this global vs china version 🤔

The big old “China scary warranty” thing doesn’t hold much weight for me. I’ve had to deal with such things for bike parts before, and although inconvenient it’s not the end of the world. I suppose it only takes being burnt once to have a sour taste though 😬


----------



## donw

Question about colorspace. My Ugoos Android box when Dolby Vision is disabled selects a color space of YCbCr422, but there is a selection for YCbCr444 that I can manually choose. Is there any benefit of choosing 444?


----------



## Dave Harper

okvcos said:


> View attachment 3294932
> 
> 
> IN DV not 170 , but 1000
> With 170 nits I have to raise the contrast and 1000 I leave it the same, as for the SDR signal, but however it burns me a little white
> View attachment 3294933
> 
> 
> Automix
> 
> some HDR movies such as Aladin or Black Panther are darker, lacking in brightness and contrast


Have you tried anything lower in the HDR tab? Something like 1000 nits?



mirzank said:


> Haha yep that is exactly the thing. I already have a t1 I need a second one, wondering if the additional 500$’ish premium is worth it for the international version for cms and dtm. What are your thoughts ? I want a no hassle ust experience.
> 
> I’m not going to be using a screen, just projecting on a white wall (I previously used a benq 2050a on the wall and was super happy with it so if I get a similar picture but just 4k I’ll be happy).
> 
> Also when do you think the international version will be ready to ship if you can discuss that info.


If the Chinese version doesn’t have dynamic tone mapping then definitely go for the global version if you want a no hassle UST experience.



donw said:


> Question about colorspace. My Ugoos Android box when Dolby Vision is disabled selects a color space of YCbCr422, but there is a selection for YCbCr444 that I can manually choose. Is there any benefit of choosing 444?


It really just depends on which device does better getting to full 444, which it needs to do for eventual display anyway. Also 444 will be higher bandwidth and your HDMI cable may choke in that. If you don’t notice issues I would just leave it at 422. 

There’s only one instance where I made sure to select 444 when I could and that was with an Optoma UHZ65 because for some reason anything under 444 was giving banding even though banding is usually attributed to bit depth but as soon as a 444 signal was input it cleared it up almost 100%.


----------



## okvcos

Dave Harper said:


> Have you tried anything lower in the HDR tab? Something like 1000 nits?


yes but HDR gets darker


----------



## zaselim

Deanodxb said:


> It looks like your screen is not dead flat, especially at the top corners. You'll not be able to get a focus improvement with the screen like that. Can you try and re-tension it or change the screen?


Yeah i know, and i also think that it might be the cause. And yes I will be stretching it again in coming days.


----------



## Dave Harper

okvcos said:


> yes but HDR gets darker


Oh wow. When I use 10,000 nits it can get overly bright. 

I’ll try to test it if I get the chance.


----------



## ProFragger

Do any one of the Vertex2 or Vrroom users know the difference between the checkboxes:

- Copy DV string under EDID tab

and 

- Use Custom HDR for LLDV input in the HDR tab is? 

Reason being, I have this Dolby Vision clip that I watch on YouTube, forcing LLDV on the Chromecast and unchecking the first box fixes one part of the video, while checking the other one, fixes another part of the video. Having both checked ruins the one clip I've asked many fellow users to test. See pictures for examples. This is with both boxes checked (blown up star clip) and when I uncheck everything from the Vertex2 and let the T1 do DV, it starts to look more normal.. Also attached. 

Appreciate any input, especially @Dave Harper. Why does this happen and what are the correct settings? 

Thanks all!


----------



## mirzank

Dave Harper said:


> If the Chinese version doesn’t have dynamic tone mapping then definitely go for the global version if you want a no hassle UST experience.


So then I guess my question to everyone here….does the Chinese t1 have dynamic tone mapping ? I thought the whole idea of having Dolby vision was that it does this, but maybe I’m wrong.


----------



## mphilamp

mirzank said:


> So then I guess my question to everyone here….does the Chinese t1 have dynamic tone mapping ? I thought the whole idea of having Dolby vision was that it does this, but maybe I’m wrong.


I would guess it does, but maybe it's not on par with the one on the global version for the moment.

Am I the only one who think that it's maybe just a firmware thing ? Very probably we'll have the same level of quality with next chinese firmware released (minus the CMS ?.... why do they keep that exclusive to global version ?)


----------



## tnaik4

mphilamp said:


> I would guess it does, but maybe it's not on par with the one on the global version for the moment.
> 
> Am I the only one who think that it's maybe just a firmware thing ? Very probably we'll have the same level of quality with next chinese firmware released (minus the CMS ?.... why do they keep that exclusive to global version ?)


Yeah its definitely just a firmware thing, if i m not mistaken the chinese T1 is even better hardware wise than the global version.


----------



## JereyWolf

mirzank said:


> So then I guess my question to everyone here….does the Chinese t1 have dynamic tone mapping ? I thought the whole idea of having Dolby vision was that it does this, but maybe I’m wrong.


Yes, it can do its own dynamic tone mapping....that's what Dolby Vision is. Dave knows that.


----------



## Dave Harper

ProFragger said:


> Do any one of the Vertex2 or Vrroom users know the difference between the checkboxes:
> 
> - Copy DV string under EDID tab
> 
> and
> 
> - Use Custom HDR for LLDV input in the HDR tab is?
> 
> Reason being, I have this Dolby Vision clip that I watch on YouTube, forcing LLDV on the Chromecast and unchecking the first box fixes one part of the video, while checking the other one, fixes another part of the video. Having both checked ruins the one clip I've asked many fellow users to test. See pictures for examples. This is with both boxes checked (blown up star clip) and when I uncheck everything from the Vertex2 and let the T1 do DV, it starts to look more normal.. Also attached.
> 
> Appreciate any input, especially @Dave Harper. Why does this happen and what are the correct settings?
> 
> Thanks all!


By checking the first box (Copy DV string under EDID tab), you're telling the HDFury to apply what you have set in the DV Tab. By checking the second box (Use Custom HDR for LLDV input) then you're telling the HDFury to apply what is input in the HDR/AVI Tab as far as custom HDR settings and parameters and ignore the HDR metadata that is there, or at least should be.

The results you get with these checked are solely dependent on what you have set in those custom boxes under those tabs. If your results are poor then it's because you have the wrong custom settings in there for your particular setup and environment.

What happens if you just use one of the preset Custom EDIDs with LLDV like 5, 9 or 10? I would suggest you use one of those until you're familiar with and good at making your own custom settings.



mirzank said:


> So then I guess my question to everyone here….does the Chinese t1 have dynamic tone mapping ? I thought the whole idea of having Dolby vision was that it does this, but maybe I’m wrong.


Yes, DV is dynamic tone mapping to a preset performance parameter set by the person who mastered it, but on this and many other DV capable USTs their DV Mode is only activated when it receives a native DV signal. I don't believe any of them can be forced into DV mode even when watching a native, non-DV HDR10 signal, which should then apply some form of tone mapping with the built in DV algorithms. With an HDFury and the proper source you can do this for all signals, including SDR and HDR10, not just for native DV.

When I talk about Dynamic Tone Mapping in this regard, I am talking about the ability to do it on a native HDR10 source signal, like the Lumagen Radiance Pro, MadVR Envy and PC and the newest JVC projectors can do, not just for native DV signals.



JereyWolf said:


> Yes, it can do its own dynamic tone mapping....that's what Dolby Vision is. Dave knows that.


I am not talking about that. ^^^See above^^^


----------



## donw

Dave Harper said:


> If the Chinese version doesn’t have dynamic tone mapping then definitely go for the global version if you want a no hassle UST experience.


So are you implying that the Global version has this HDR10 mode tone mapping you mentioned above, like the newest JVC projectors have?


----------



## Dave Harper

donw said:


> So are you implying that the Global version has this HDR10 mode tone mapping you mentioned above, like the newest JVC projectors have?


Apparently so! The LGs have a version of this as well, but they didn't seem to perform as well as the T1 Global on scenes such as The Meg chapter 8 and Aquaman chapter 6.


----------



## JereyWolf

Dave Harper said:


> Apparently so! The LGs have a version of this as well, but they didn't seem to perform as well as the T1 Global on scenes such as The Meg chapter 8 and Aquaman chapter 6.


Thanks for clarifying what you meant when you say dynamic tone mapping; not DV but a specific algorithm to dynamically adapt a tone mapping curve from static HDR10 metadata. 

That's huge news, and should be a major selling point for the global version. If it can come anywhere near the performance of MadVR, I'd sell mine and purchase the global one.

Are there any settings on the global version that give you any control over the tone mapping curve, or is there any way to know that picture mode is active?


----------



## mirzank

Dave Harper said:


> Yes, DV is dynamic tone mapping to a preset performance parameter set by the person who mastered it, but on this and many other DV capable USTs their DV Mode is only activated when it receives a native DV signal. I don't believe any of them can be forced into DV mode even when watching a native, non-DV HDR10 signal, which should then apply some form of tone mapping with the built in DV algorithms. With an HDFury and the proper source you can do this for all signals, including SDR and HDR10, not just for native DV.
> 
> When I talk about Dynamic Tone Mapping in this regard, I am talking about the ability to do it on a native HDR10 source signal, like the Lumagen Radiance Pro, MadVR Envy and PC and the newest JVC projectors can do, not just for native DV signals.


Thanks a lot for taking the time to explain this in a way that a projector dunce like me can understand. Totally makes sense, so as I understand it instead of only being able to do it on a DV encoded file, it can do it on other hdr sources as well. That actually seems like a huge benefit of the international version. 
I’m sure the Chinese version is capable of this, but I guess they need to maintain some features on international version to justify the 500$ price difference. Totally worth it in my opinion so I’ll definitely be going for the international version when available to order.


----------



## Dave Harper

JereyWolf said:


> Are there any settings on the global version that give you any control over the tone mapping curve, or is there any way to know that picture mode is active?


Not that I recall. It's been awhile since I saw it and frankly I've gone through at least three more projectors since so they all muddle together.

I do remember when I noticed it was when I was playing The Meg and Aquaman, my two main sources to test this, using Infuse on my AppleTV, connected directly to the T1G (not through the HDFury for LLDV) and when I played chapters 8 and 6 respectively I was shocked at how nice they rendered and didn't blow out the whites and details like it does on any other projector I have tried that didn't have a DTM processor or HDFury in the chain at some point. It rendered it similarly to what I saw with an Envy when I tested it, a Lumagen from a ways back and my newest MadVR PC with Videoprocessor I just built and to some extent the VErtex2 when properly setup.

I would have to clear it with @ProjectionHead to test this when I get back in the office next week, or take it back home with me when I leave.


----------



## donw

Dave Harper said:


> Not that I recall. It's been awhile since I saw it and frankly I've gone through at least three more projectors since so they all muddle together.
> 
> I do remember when I noticed it was when I was playing The Meg and Aquaman, my two main sources to test this, using Infuse on my AppleTV, connected directly to the T1G (not through the HDFury for LLDV) and when I played chapters 8 and 6 respectively I was shocked at how nice they rendered and didn't blow out the whites and details like it does on any other projector I have tried that didn't have a DTM processor or HDFury in the chain at some point. It rendered it similarly to what I saw with an Envy when I tested it, a Lumagen from a ways back and my newest MadVR PC with Videoprocessor I just built and to some extent the VErtex2 when properly setup.
> 
> I would have to clear it with @ProjectionHead to test this when I get back in the office next week, or take it back home with me when I leave.


So the Chinese T1 DID "blow out the whites and details" on those two HDR10 (presumably) sources?


----------



## HCMKII

ProFragger said:


> Guess you have that trained eye, friend 😊. I acknowledge the tone mapping with reds exaggerated on the right, but the details, clarity didn't look egregious to me with the T1. Now that I have the Vertex2 and @m0j0 helping us, the colors do look natural and contrast and details improved.. 😬.
> 
> Appreciate your input.





ProFragger said:


> Do any one of the Vertex2 or Vrroom users know the difference between the checkboxes:
> 
> - Copy DV string under EDID tab
> 
> and
> 
> - Use Custom HDR for LLDV input in the HDR tab is?
> 
> Reason being, I have this Dolby Vision clip that I watch on YouTube, forcing LLDV on the Chromecast and unchecking the first box fixes one part of the video, while checking the other one, fixes another part of the video. Having both checked ruins the one clip I've asked many fellow users to test. See pictures for examples. This is with both boxes checked (blown up star clip) and when I uncheck everything from the Vertex2 and let the T1 do DV, it starts to look more normal.. Also attached.
> 
> Appreciate any input, especially @Dave Harper. Why does this happen and what are the correct settings?
> 
> Thanks all!


After optimization the basic settings of the Spear and Munsil UHD HDR disc using the dedicated contrast, brightness, hardness, hue and saturation targets with a blue filter, connected to an oppo 203. The HDR limit of 500 nits of T1 can be easily checked. The oppo 203 allows up to 1600 nits.
As I said earlier in a post, the T1 has 5OO nits in HDR for its characteristics. In Projectivy, you can see the parameters of the projector. (Android menu About this device).I use an HDFURY VRROOM an apple TV in input 0 and the opp in input 1. TX0 output to the FENGMI T1.
So I set 500 nits as I checked with my OPPO 203 player and it's clearly the max and max cll that I reported into the VRROOM HDR page.
For the DV page, I reported 2800 nits, which is supposed to be the max value in ANSI lumens of T1.
Gregory in his test measured 2535 nits max.
I use these settings on Apple TV or oppo indifferently. I watch NETFLIX, Disney+, AppleTV and Prime Video.

Remarks:
I don't use the contrast dynamic mode or image enhancement on T1.
In France, the color system is SECAM/ PAL. USA use NTSC color system.
I can't tell you if it has an influence on the settings.

Here are my settings:
In SDR, according to the S&M UHD HDR disc
Brightness 48
Contrast 48
Saturation 48 ( determine with blue filter)
Sharpness 45
Tone 48 (determine with blue filter)

In HDR, I only change the contrast: 58
For custom colors: I copy the Gregory's settings
Red 1000
Green 1024
Blue 944

English is not my mother tongue; please excuse any errors on my part.


----------



## antjes

donw said:


> So the Chinese T1 DID "blow out the whites and details" on those two HDR10 (presumably) sources?


Yes, chinese T1 blow out the whites, lets say, there is no single setup to manage everything. I can control whites in those two HDR scenes but aplying two diferentes configs with Oppo, so as Dave explained, there is no DTM for HDR on chinese Version, at least with this firmware... 


Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## m0j0

HCMKII said:


> After optimization the basic settings of the Spear and Munsil UHD HDR disc using the dedicated contrast, brightness, hardness, hue and saturation targets with a blue filter, connected to an oppo 203. The HDR limit of 500 nits of T1 can be easily checked. The oppo 203 allows up to 1600 nits.
> As I said earlier in a post, the T1 has 5OO nits in HDR for its characteristics. In Projectivy, you can see the parameters of the projector. (Android menu About this device).I use an HDFURY VRROOM an apple TV in input 0 and the opp in input 1. TX0 output to the FENGMI T1.
> So I set 500 nits as I checked with my OPPO 203 player and it's clearly the max and max cll that I reported into the VRROOM HDR page.
> For the DV page, I reported 2800 nits, which is supposed to be the max value in ANSI lumens of T1.
> Gregory in his test measured 2535 nits max.
> I use these settings on Apple TV or oppo indifferently. I watch NETFLIX, Disney+, AppleTV and Prime Video.
> 
> Remarks:
> I don't use the contrast dynamic mode or image enhancement on T1.
> In France, the color system is SECAM/ PAL. USA use NTSC color system.
> I can't tell you if it has an influence on the settings.
> 
> Here are my settings:
> In SDR, according to the S&M UHD HDR disc
> Brightness 48
> Contrast 48
> Saturation 48 ( determine with blue filter)
> Sharpness 45
> Tone 48 (determine with blue filter)
> 
> In HDR, I only change the contrast: 58
> For custom colors: I copy the Gregory's settings
> Red 1000
> Green 1024
> Blue 944
> 
> English is not my mother tongue; please excuse any errors on my part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3295372
> View attachment 3295373
> View attachment 3295374
> View attachment 3295378


Interesting info, thanks for sharing. However, Lumens and Nits are two different things, as far as I know.


----------



## HCMKII

m0j0 said:


> Interesting info, thanks for sharing. However, Lumens and Nits are two different things, as far as I know.


Yes, you are right, but which convertion is just


----------



## m0j0

HCMKII said:


> View attachment 3295395


My understanding is to get Nits from Lumens, you would divide the ANSI lumens by 3.426 to get total Nits. So, in this case, 2,535 lumens divided by 3.426 would give you a max of 739 Nits. I am probably wrong but that is what I found online anyway.


----------



## JereyWolf

HCMKII said:


> View attachment 3295395


Here you are showing lumens/meter^2 relative to nits, those are the same unit...but both are different from lumens typically reported as a projector's output. Both of those are in relation to an area of projection, or the size of the image.

Check this calculator








Projector Calculator


Projector calculator finds the optimum viewing distance and throw distance for a specific screen size.




www.omnicalculator.com


----------



## JereyWolf

If the manufacturer's spec of 0.4 gain for my screen is accurate, then after calibration I'm measuring the T1 at roughly 1750 lumens, 55 nits on my screen.


----------



## HCMKII

JereyWolf said:


> Here you are showing lumens/meter^2 relative to nits, those are the same unit...but both are different from lumens typically reported as a projector's output. Both of those are in relation to an area of projection, or the size of the image.
> 
> Check this calculator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Projector Calculator
> 
> 
> Projector calculator finds the optimum viewing distance and throw distance for a specific screen size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.omnicalculator.com


Thank you for the precision.


----------



## HCMKII

m0j0 said:


> My understanding is to get Nits from Lumens, you would divide the ANSI lumens by 3.426 to get total Nits. So, in this case, 2,535 lumens divided by 3.426 would give you a max of 739 Nits. I am probably wrong but that is what I found online anyway.


The information is interesting to progress.


----------



## tnaik4

m0j0 said:


> My understanding is to get Nits from Lumens, you would divide the ANSI lumens by 3.426 to get total Nits. So, in this case, 2,535 lumens divided by 3.426 would give you a max of 739 Nits. I am probably wrong but that is what I found online anyway.


To get FootLambert u divide nits by 3.426 not lumens, to get the amount of lumens on screen its FL x screen square feet.
I just did a quick equation, if i m not mistaken to get nits from lumens its : nits=(3.426xlumens)÷screen square feet.


----------



## Dave Harper

donw said:


> So the Chinese T1 DID "blow out the whites and details" on those two HDR10 (presumably) sources?





antjes said:


> Yes, chinese T1 blow out the whites, lets say, there is no single setup to manage everything. I can control whites in those two HDR scenes but aplying two diferentes configs with Oppo, so as Dave explained, there is no DTM for HDR on chinese Version, at least with this firmware...
> 
> 
> Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


Thanks for confirming. I haven't done an extensive calibration on the China version like I did with the Global and what I did on it with basic testing wise was before the global and in the office where I didn't have access to those videos.

I will have to make it a point to test it when I am there again, maybe using the Spears & Munsil disc we have there with the Horses in the Snow scene.


----------



## m0j0

tnaik4 said:


> To get FootLambert u divide nits by 3.426 not lumens, to get the amount of lumens on screen its FL x screen square feet.
> I just did a quick equation, if i m not mistaken to get nits from lumens its : nits=(3.426xlumens)÷screen square feet.


So, for a 100 inch screen (29.7 square feet) with approx. 2,535 lumens that would be 292 nits?


----------



## ProFragger

Dave Harper said:


> By checking the first box (Copy DV string under EDID tab), you're telling the HDFury to apply what you have set in the DV Tab. By checking the second box (Use Custom HDR for LLDV input) then you're telling the HDFury to apply what is input in the HDR/AVI Tab as far as custom HDR settings and parameters and ignore the HDR metadata that is there, or at least should be.
> 
> The results you get with these checked are solely dependent on what you have set in those custom boxes under those tabs. If your results are poor then it's because you have the wrong custom settings in there for your particular setup and environment.
> 
> What happens if you just use one of the preset Custom EDIDs with LLDV like 5, 9 or 10? I would suggest you use one of those until you're familiar with and good at making your own custom settings.



Thanks for the guidance @Dave Harper. If I select the existing EDIDs like you suggested, do the DV string and the Custom HDR on LLDV BOTH need to be UNCHECKED? 

Whether I try the preselected EDIDs or use the various nits value settings from the members here... Nothing really seems to make much difference with my picture. The only thing I discovered today was that if I hit the "Send DV" button, only then my Vertex2 seems to toggle and make a difference. It actually fixed the perpetual problem I had with that YouTube clip. But testing further with Netflix content, I learned that hitting that button simply was toggling between DV and SDR (seemingly)... And when it showed SDR picture, the star image looked correct. 

Obviously, this isn't correct because I do actually want to watch DV or LLDV picture, otherwise, what's the point of this protector? 😊 

I appreciate your help!


----------



## tnaik4

m0j0 said:


> So, for a 100 inch screen (29.7 square feet) with approx. 2,535 lumens that would be 292 nits?


Exactly, yes


----------



## JereyWolf

m0j0 said:


> So, for a 100 inch screen (29.7 square feet) with approx. 2,535 lumens that would be 292 nits?


Yes, on a neutral gain screen.


----------



## Dave Harper

ProFragger said:


> Thanks for the guidance @Dave Harper. If I select the existing EDIDs like you suggested, do the DV string and the Custom HDR on LLDV BOTH need to be UNCHECKED?
> 
> Whether I try the preselected EDIDs or use the various nits value settings from the members here... Nothing really seems to make much difference with my picture. The only thing I discovered today was that if I hit the "Send DV" button, only then my Vertex2 seems to toggle and make a difference. It actually fixed the perpetual problem I had with that YouTube clip. But testing further with Netflix content, I learned that hitting that button simply was toggling between DV and SDR (seemingly)... And when it showed SDR picture, the star image looked correct.
> 
> Obviously, this isn't correct because I do actually want to watch DV or LLDV picture, otherwise, what's the point of this protector?
> 
> I appreciate your help!


The DV tab will have no effect when you use a Custom EDID. You use the HDR/AVI tab’s Use Custom HDR when input is LLDV setting to create a custom HDR metadata profile and to kick your display into its HDR mode if you don’t have a manual way of doing so. I would use the default values in this box, at least initially, until you learn more about what it does. 

The Send DV button is only used to send the values and parameters you’ve set and created in the DV Data Block. It isn’t used when you’re using a Custom EDID. You only do it once you’ve created these values and want to send them to your HDFury device to be loaded in and applied to your HDMI signal. The only time you want to hit it again is if you changed something in the DV Data Block and want to send and apply this new change to your HDFury. 

It sounds like you’re seeing SDR, most likely with a washed out image, because you’re display isn’t activating its HDR Mode which most likely means you don’t have the Use Custom HDR when Input is LLDV box checked to make it do so. 

I don’t know why you’re not seeing any differences other than maybe your display just doesn’t respond or change enough to see it. I’m sure you’re just clicking buttons and getting the HDFURY into some strange non-configured, non-operable state where it’s not doing what it’s intended to do. 

Just do a factory reset of your HDFury and then click on Custom EDID 5, 9 or 10 and check the box for Use Custom HDR when Input is LLDV. Maybe try each one and use the one you like best. 

Then take the next few weeks reading the dedicated threads and learn what each settings does and how it makes the image and display react. Then and only then start using custom settings. 

Have fun!


----------



## mcusman2012

@m0j0 and other users having vroom. I am finding one thing very strange. After i set up HDR and DV tab values and hit send DV all things take effect. BUT if i refresh the URL browser address of HDFURY all the values in the tabs change to default. Why this is happening? Although OSD green values are the ones which i adjusted. I have to change all the settings/values again? Is it a visual bug?


----------



## m0j0

mcusman2012 said:


> @m0j0 and other users having vroom. I am finding one thing very strange. After i set up HDR and DV tab values and hit send DV all things take effect. BUT if i refresh the URL browser address of HDFURY all the values in the tabs change to default. Why this is happening? Although OSD green values are the ones which i adjusted. I have to change all the settings/values again? Is it a visual bug?


It's a bug in the web UI. The values you entered are still there, but if you close out the page and open it again, you will see default values instead of the ones you entered. I just keep a browser page open and recover it from history if I reboot.


----------



## m0j0

Playing around with some slightly different settings:

Brightness: View Mode
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 49
Contrast: 49
Saturation: 45
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 52

Then two different color setups I'm playing with
1st
Color: Custom
Red: 1017
Green: 1030
Blue: 874

2nd
Color: Custom
Red: 1017
Green: 1030
Blue: 753


----------



## m0j0

Daytime pics with the 2nd color profile mentioned above


----------



## donw

Dave Harper said:


> Apparently so! The LGs have a version of this as well, but they didn't seem to perform as well as the T1 Global on scenes such as The Meg chapter 8 and Aquaman chapter 6.


Last night I watched those two chapters in HDR, and yes, I had to turn down the contrast. I had been able to push it to as high as 54 when watching the movie Ambulance, but I had to turn it down to 50 in order to not blow out the background images in those two chapters. I think I will probably stick to 52 or so and most HDR sources will look fine.


----------



## m0j0

Ran a calibration again last night and was going to do some testing before posting it, but here it is if you want to try it out on your setup.

Brightness: View Mode
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 49
Contrast: 49
Saturation: 40 (up from 38)
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 52
Color: Custom
Red: 1157
Green: 979
Blue: 777


----------



## mcusman2012

m0j0 said:


> It's a bug in the web UI. The values you entered are still there, but if you close out the page and open it again, you will see default values instead of the ones you entered. I just keep a browser page open and recover it from history if I reboot.


Oh. Ok. I thought my device was buggy. They should fix it. Otherwise people will get confused.


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> Ran a calibration again last night and was going to do some testing before posting it, but here it is if you want to try it out on your setup.
> 
> Brightness: View Mode
> Image Parameters: Custom
> Brightness: 49
> Contrast: 49
> Saturation: 38
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 52
> Color: Custom
> Red: 1157
> Green: 979
> Blue: 777


Still SD, right? Do you think her skin has too much red in this one? I kind of liked the same photo in your previous post better.


----------



## m0j0

donw said:


> Still SD, right? Do you think her skin has too much red in this one? I kind of liked the same photo in your previous post better.


Yes, still SD. When I use the colorimeter it has a tendency to require a lot of red for some reason. It actually doesn't look bad at all at 38 saturation, but if I go to 45 or so, then yes, the skin tone gets more reddish as I go. However, I checked some scenes for skin tones / faces on my calibrated Samsung and it looks similar, so not so far off as I first thought. I think it just takes time to get used to, but that is why I came up with the other settings as well, as between the three, there is sure to be one that you will like.


----------



## donw

I haven't played with reducing saturation; I'm stuck at 43. I should probably play with that.


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> Yes, still SD. When I use the colorimeter it has a tendency to require a lot of red for some reason. It actually doesn't look bad at all at 38 saturation, but if I go to 45 or so, then yes, the skin tone gets more reddish as I go. However, I checked some scenes for skin tones / faces on my calibrated Samsung and it looks similar, so not so far off as I first thought. I think it just takes time to get used to, but that is why I came up with the other settings as well, as between the three, there is sure to be one that you will like.


If you get time, could you try calibrating HDR sources? I wonder how much they would change your numbers.


----------



## m0j0

donw said:


> If you get time, could you try calibrating HDR sources? I wonder how much they would change your numbers.


I don't think I have the proper colorimeter for that. I just have the colorchecker display pro and not the plus.


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> I don't think I have the proper colorimeter for that. I just have the colorchecker display pro and not the plus.


Oh, got it.


----------



## okvcos

m0j0 said:


> Ran a calibration again last night and was going to do some testing before posting it, but here it is if you want to try it out on your setup.
> 
> Brightness: View Mode
> Image Parameters: Custom
> Brightness: 49
> Contrast: 49
> Saturation: 40 (up from 38)
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 52
> Color: Custom
> Red: 1157
> Green: 979
> Blue: 777


Too red


----------



## m0j0

Night time pics


okvcos said:


> Too red


Honestly, I think every face in this video is overly red, so it may be more just how this was filmed. I don't find other faces in other shows too red with these settings (at 40 for saturation).

Some pictures I took with these settings last night


----------



## Dave Harper

m0j0 said:


> It's a bug in the web UI. The values you entered are still there, but if you close out the page and open it again, you will see default values instead of the ones you entered. I just keep a browser page open and recover it from history if I reboot.





mcusman2012 said:


> Oh. Ok. I thought my device was buggy. They should fix it. Otherwise people will get confused.


It’s not a bug. That’s how it was designed because these devices don’t have enough memory to store the values because they decided the memory needed was better used for actual features rather than a persistent GUI. 

They have said they intend to include this in future products with more Memory. 



donw said:


> Last night I watched those two chapters in HDR, and yes, I had to turn down the contrast. I had been able to push it to as high as 54 when watching the movie Ambulance, but I had to turn it down to 50 in order to not blow out the background images in those two chapters. I think I will probably stick to 52 or so and most HDR sources will look fine.


Actually only reducing 4 points isn’t bad at all. Maybe they do have some form of rudimentary dynamic tone mapping or at least contrast and gamma manipulation like the new Epsons. 

I’ll try to test it this week.


----------



## okvcos

Dave Harper said:


> Oh wow. When I use 10,000 nits it can get overly bright.
> 
> I’ll try to test it if I get the chance.


Did you have time to try?


----------



## ProFragger

Dave Harper said:


> The DV tab will have no effect when you use a Custom EDID. You use the HDR/AVI tab’s Use Custom HDR when input is LLDV setting to create a custom HDR metadata profile and to kick your display into its HDR mode if you don’t have a manual way of doing so. I would use the default values in this box, at least initially, until you learn more about what it does.
> 
> The Send DV button is only used to send the values and parameters you’ve set and created in the DV Data Block. It isn’t used when you’re using a Custom EDID. You only do it once you’ve created these values and want to send them to your HDFury device to be loaded in and applied to your HDMI signal. The only time you want to hit it again is if you changed something in the DV Data Block and want to send and apply this new change to your HDFury.
> 
> It sounds like you’re seeing SDR, most likely with a washed out image, because you’re display isn’t activating its HDR Mode which most likely means you don’t have the Use Custom HDR when Input is LLDV box checked to make it do so.
> 
> I don’t know why you’re not seeing any differences other than maybe your display just doesn’t respond or change enough to see it. I’m sure you’re just clicking buttons and getting the HDFURY into some strange non-configured, non-operable state where it’s not doing what it’s intended to do.
> 
> Just do a factory reset of your HDFury and then click on Custom EDID 5, 9 or 10 and check the box for Use Custom HDR when Input is LLDV. Maybe try each one and use the one you like best.
> 
> Then take the next few weeks reading the dedicated threads and learn what each settings does and how it makes the image and display react. Then and only then start using custom settings.
> 
> Have fun!


Thank you @Dave Harper! Helpful response, as usual! 

Let me confirm a few things in terms of my understanding, and then let you know what happened in practice:

1. If Automix button is not selected, likely the Custom EDID settings are overriding everything else, set in HDR and DV tabs, is this correct? 

2. If Automix is selected, DV and HDR settings are used in the picture. If Copy DV string is selected, then DV tab settings are overriding the HDR tab settings? I'm not clear about this part. 

As for what happened/happens:

1. The washout image does change, but not to something visually acceptable with the Custom EDID you mentioned (5, 9, 10). I tried 8 as well 😊. 

2. Also, not all the scenes in the DV demo video I watch are visually blown out and outright offensive to look at LOL! Is that normal if your theory of SDR is true? 

3. When I use custom settings, I do not ever venture off too much or at all from the settings the likes of @m0j0 or @lattiboy share. Or other members. 

Finally, to ensure my Vertex2 is not defective or broken... Can you give me some settings I could change to extreme values, along with supporting checkboxes to confirm my Vertex2 is processing? Like others have posted here (maybe it's a Vrroom feature), my OSD never shows any Nits values... Just mostly confirms if it's LLDV, HDR along with some other, seemingly insignificant values... Is that normal? 

Thank you again for all your help! 😁🙏🏼


----------



## mcusman2012

Is it laser speckle? Or just due to grainy nature of film( morbius 39.5min) . There is no extra red push. This i know. And i have seen many other red films but this particular scene seems strange in aspect of red.


----------



## m0j0

mcusman2012 said:


> Is it laser speckle? Or just due to grainy nature of film( morbius 39.5min) . There is no extra red push. This i know. And i have seen many other red films but this particular scene seems strange in aspect of red.


I have seen a few weird things here and there with really low light scenes. Usually resolved by adjusting brightness and contrast from what I recall.


----------



## mphilamp

This clarity/sharpness setting is kind of annoying, it seems enabled on a lot of image settings, so I'm forced to use custom mode to remove it.

Below are my settings with SDR content :

view mode (avoid office mode that prevents custom changes)

saturation : 48
sharpness : 0 (let the source be untouched)
hue : 52
brightness : 50
contrast :50
R: 920
V: 1000
B: 980

and don't forget to check on a regular basis that dynamic contrast is off !


----------



## rjyap

mphilamp said:


> This clarity/sharpness setting is kind of annoying, it seems enabled on a lot of image settings, so I'm forced to use custom mode to remove it.
> 
> Below are my settings with SDR content :
> 
> view mode (avoid office mode that prevents custom changes)
> 
> saturation : 48
> sharpness : 0 (let the source be untouched)
> hue : 52
> brightness : 50
> contrast :50
> R: 920
> V: 1000
> B: 980
> 
> and don't forget to check on a regular basis that dynamic contrast is off !


As long as you don't switch to other image settings the dynamic contrast would be always off.


----------



## m0j0

Some pics of recent testing on my T1 across different devices (Roku Ultra, Zidoo Z9X, Sony X800M2)


----------



## m0j0

more test pics


----------



## lattiboy

rjyap said:


> As long as you don't switch to other image settings the dynamic contrast would be always off.


I’ve found dynamic contrast will often re-enable itself on reboot when using custom image settings. Also when switching from 2.0 to 2.1 to fix HDMI it tends to come on.


----------



## mcusman2012

lattiboy said:


> I’ve found dynamic contrast will often re-enable itself on reboot when using custom image settings. Also when switching from 2.0 to 2.1 to fix HDMI it tends to come on.


Yes i know. Y everyone wants to keep it off? The dynamic contrast.....is it a bad thing for quality?


----------



## JereyWolf

mcusman2012 said:


> Yes i know. Y everyone wants to keep it off? The dynamic contrast.....is it a bad thing for quality?


Obviously...go with whatever you prefer, but many people prefer it off because it makes the image look harsh and unnatural. It add too many shadows where they shouldn't be. Here’s a photo comparison on/off.


----------



## donw

JereyWolf said:


> Obviously...go with whatever you prefer, but many people prefer it off because it makes the image look harsh and unnatural. It add too many shadows where they shouldn't be. Here’s a photo comparison on/off.
> View attachment 3297160


As shown in your photos, I also see more red push in faces when on.


----------



## hakke69

Hello, my friends! 
English is not my native language, so i cant read all topic, too difficult... 
Have one question about input lag in this proj
I read on france review, that it has 40+ ms lag
Is it better with new os 2.0 or it better in global version or there is some tips to reduce it? 
Or maybe there is no difference between chinese and global, and new OS doesnt reduce it? 
Thanks for answering☺


----------



## JereyWolf

hakke69 said:


> Hello, my friends!
> English is not my native language, so i cant read all topic, too difficult...
> Have one question about input lag in this proj
> I read on france review, that it has 40+ ms lag
> Is it better with new os 2.0 or it better in global version or there is some tips to reduce it?
> Or maybe there is no difference between chinese and global, and new OS doesnt reduce it?
> Thanks for answering☺


Based on experience with other projectors with nearly the same reported input lag, I believe the 35 to 40ms is correct. Personally, I don't feel even when using a mouse for pc games.


----------



## hakke69

JereyWolf said:


> Based on experience with other projectors with nearly the same reported input lag, I believe the 35 to 40ms is correct. Personally, I don't feel even when using a mouse for pc games.


oh, thanks! 
so 1 more question. is there big difference between chinese and global? Does it make sense to pay more?


----------



## JereyWolf

hakke69 said:


> oh, thanks!
> so 1 more question. is there big difference between chinese and global? Does it make sense to pay more?


I think it's too early to say if the features of the global version make it worth the price, we need reviews and feedback from users.


----------



## spocky12

Dave Harper said:


> It’s not a bug. That’s how it was designed because these devices don’t have enough memory to store the values because they decided the memory needed was better used for actual features rather than a persistent GUI.
> 
> They have said they intend to include this in future products with more Memory.


I don't understand that memory issue.
They obviously store the HDR and DV strings in memory in order to still apply them after a reboot of the HD fury.
What is preventing them from translating these strings back to their corresponding human readable fields in the HDR/DV forms ?

I've noticed that sometimes, slightly different values on the textboxes result in the exact same HDR/DV strings, so this reverse translation might not give the exact same parameters you entered beforehand, but given the fact that only this final string is important, who cares if the reverse translation is not perfectly exact ?


----------



## Dave Harper

spocky12 said:


> I don't understand that memory issue.
> They obviously store the HDR and DV strings in memory in order to still apply them after a reboot of the HD fury.
> What is preventing them from translating these strings back to their corresponding human readable fields in the HDR/DV forms ?.........


Don't shoot the messenger! I am no programmer, that's for sure. I just reported what they themselves have said many times in the past regarding this issue. Maybe try going to their Discord Channel for the answer direct from them?


----------



## tnaik4

JereyWolf said:


> Obviously...go with whatever you prefer, but many people prefer it off because it makes the image look harsh and unnatural. It add too many shadows where they shouldn't be. Here’s a photo comparison on/off.
> View attachment 3297160


They should have a dynamic black where its active only on very dark scene, it has no business being active in this scene.
U are right , off is way better.


----------



## tnaik4

hakke69 said:


> oh, thanks!
> so 1 more question. is there big difference between chinese and global? Does it make sense to pay more?


We need more reviews to know.
But it depends if u have external tone mapping.
For me i use Madvr exclusively so better dtm on the golbal doesnt benefit me.
Also if it has better android os implementation one can get a fire stick or something similar.
So for me the Chinese version is a better buy specially since it can be had for very good price.


----------



## tnaik4

m0j0 said:


> Some pics of recent testing on my T1 across different devices (Roku Ultra, Zidoo Z9X, Sony X800M2)


Looking great, did u ever try the T1 in ur dedicated room ?


----------



## m0j0

tnaik4 said:


> Looking great, did u ever try the T1 in ur dedicated room ?


No, I didn't. Still in the living room. It's the kids TV.


----------



## tnaik4

m0j0 said:


> No, I didn't. Still in the living room. It's the kids TV.


Be interesting to see how it looks in a complete dedicated room, ur pics are amazing already.


----------



## Dave Harper

tnaik4 said:


> .........For me i use Madvr exclusively so better dtm on the golbal doesnt benefit me........


But the added white balance and CMS controls would benefit here.


----------



## m0j0

When I play the demo scenes on the Spears and Munsil 4k test disc, I usually use the 1,000 nit BT 2020 option. But last night, I did the 10,000 nit FEL and it sure does look a whole lot nicer ( I think I also bumped contrast by +3, so that might have had some affect as well)!

1,000 nit pic on top, 10,000 nit FEL pic on bottom


----------



## tnaik4

Dave Harper said:


> But the added white balance and CMS controls would benefit here.


I do a 2000-3000 points 3Dlut with MadVR, so it corrects everything. 
Would I rather have it, Of course, but we are not getting these for free though.


----------



## mcusman2012

JereyWolf said:


> Obviously...go with whatever you prefer, but many people prefer it off because it makes the image look harsh and unnatural. It add too many shadows where they shouldn't be. Here’s a photo comparison on/off.
> View attachment 3297160


@m0j0 my vrroom has suddenly stopped implementing DV tab luminance. Is it a bug? Now nothing happens to the picture anymore even if i change DV tab values. It has become static. Previously it used to change brightness and contrast of my screen depending upon luminance values. But now when i click send DV my screens goes black for 1 second and then comes back without any changes. How should i fix it now?


----------



## m0j0

mcusman2012 said:


> @m0j0 my vrroom has suddenly stopped implementing DV tab luminance. Is it a bug? Now nothing happens to the picture anymore even if i change DV tab values. It has become static. Previously it used to change brightness and contrast of my screen depending upon luminance values. But now when i click send DV my screens goes black for 1 second and then comes back without any changes. How should i fix it now?


Make sure you restart the Vrroom and also your media player after any changes to the dv or hdr tab values.


----------



## rjyap

m0j0 said:


> When I play the demo scenes on the Spears and Munsil 4k test disc, I usually use the 1,000 nit BT 2020 option. But last night, I did the 10,000 nit FEL and it sure does look a whole lot nicer ( I think I also bumped contrast by +3, so that might have had some affect as well)!
> 
> 1,000 nit pic on top, 10,000 nit FEL pic on bottom


Note sure how accurate is the shadow details captured (It's tough to capture all the shadow details in T1 without overexpose the photo), but looks like 10,000 nit version crushing shadow details thus giving an impression more contrast and pop.


----------



## hakke69

JereyWolf said:


> Based on experience with other projectors with nearly the same reported input lag, I believe the 35 to 40ms is correct. Personally, I don't feel even when using a mouse for pc games.


35-40 in 1080p mode? 4k60 will be higher my thought...


----------



## JereyWolf

hakke69 said:


> 35-40 in 1080p mode? 4k60 will be higher my thought...


I don't believe that 1080 or 4k makes a difference, but the frame rate will make a difference and the 35-40ms numbers must have been based a 60hz signal. 
I had the Samsung LSP9T for a while (rated at 55ms input lag) and the input lag on the T1 is definitely lower.


----------



## Dave Harper

tnaik4 said:


> I do a 2000-3000 points 3Dlut with MadVR, so it corrects everything.
> 
> Would I rather have it, Of course, but we are not getting these for free though.


Haha I knew you were going to say that!!! 

I posted that more for the members who don’t go to that extent. 



rjyap said:


> Note sure how accurate is the shadow details captured (It's tough to capture all the shadow details in T1 without overexpose the photo), but looks like 10,000 nit version crushing shadow details thus giving an impression more contrast and pop.


When using 10,000 nits I find it better as well, especially paired with an AppleTV. 

I wholeheartedly believe it’s because you’re “compressing” the signal less, since tone mapping is compression after all. This is the same analogy you can use with music and audio and playing a pure high fidelity full range audio track as compared to a compressed file with limited range, like mp3.

I know it’s still being compressed, especially on a projector with limited nits capabilities, but my point is you’re feeding the display a much higher quality signal to begin with, instead of one that’s pre-compressed.


----------



## mphilamp

I noticed something really annoying: in pure android mode, for instance when using Emby (which works really great besides the issue) altering the image settings won't have any effect on the UI nor the next video played. It will work only on the current video played. So it's not easy given that you have to quit the app during video playback, go to the settings, edit something and go back to the app that was playing the video: then, if video is still able to play after this trick... the image settings are finally applied...

so it seems only the femgmi video player is able to do image settings change in pure android display without hassle (since it displays quite the same image settings menu as the one used for HDMI inputs)

If you have any idea about how to overcome this issue, I would be interested


----------



## rjyap

Dave Harper said:


> Haha I knew you were going to say that!!!
> 
> I posted that more for the members who don’t go to that extent.
> 
> 
> 
> When using 10,000 nits I find it better as well, especially paired with an AppleTV.
> 
> I wholeheartedly believe it’s because you’re “compressing” the signal less, since tone mapping is compression after all. This is the same analogy you can use with music and audio and playing a pure high fidelity full range audio track as compared to a compressed file with limited range, like mp3.
> 
> I know it’s still being compressed, especially on a projector with limited nits capabilities, but my point is you’re feeding the display a much higher quality signal to begin with, instead of one that’s pre-compressed.


I don't think setting the HDFury to 10,000 nits would have less compression compare to 1000 nits. That would depends on the source if it's encoded with max 1000 nits or 10,000 nits data. If from audio perspective, it would be like upscaling 44khz CD to 192khz HD Audio. Does it have less compression when upscale to 192khz HD Audio? Personally I don't think so as if the music been heavily compress to begin with then upscaling wouldn't help.

I'm also a madVR user using 3D LUT so for me that's the best combo for T1. No more tinkering for SDR vs HDR if output using HDR to SDR BT. 2020 DTM.


----------



## Dave Harper

rjyap said:


> I don't think setting the HDFury to 10,000 nits would have less compression compare to 1000 nits. That would depends on the source if it's encoded with max 1000 nits or 10,000 nits data. If from audio perspective, it would be like upscaling 44khz CD to 192khz HD Audio. Does it have less compression when upscale to 192khz HD Audio? Personally I don't think so as if the music been heavily compress to begin with then upscaling wouldn't help.
> 
> I'm also a madVR user using 3D LUT so for me that's the best combo for T1. No more tinkering for SDR vs HDR if output using HDR to SDR BT. 2020 DTM.


But HDR is still based on a 10,000 nit absolute PQ “gamma” curve. So mastering at 1,000 nits is still being compressed from the full standard. I do get what you’re saying though and it makes sense of course, but my eyes tell me otherwise when I compare a 10,000 nit Custom HDR metadata and a 1,000 nit one. 

Maybe it’s avoiding the dreaded double tone mapping that everyone talks about? When I input 10,000 nits max luminance on the HDR/AVI tab instead of 1,000 nits it clearly makes a marked difference as compared to 1,000. I think it’s opening up the display and basically cancels out any tone mapping it’s doing when it receives a 10,000 nit metadata signal. It then allows the DV Data Block Tab’s max luminance to do its job properly and tone map to the specified level you put there. I literally just tested this again last night and it worked absolutely perfectly on scenes like Chapter 6 of Aquaman and chapter 8 of The Meg. So much so that I’m kind of regretting spending all that money building a nice madVR with VideoProcessor HTPC. I literally do not need it!


----------



## donw

Dave Harper said:


> I literally just tested this again last night and it worked absolutely perfectly on scenes like Chapter 6 of Aquaman and chapter 8 of The Meg. So much so that I’m kind of regretting spending all that money building a nice madVR with VideoProcessor HTPC. I literally do not need it!


I'm not sure I would hold out The Meg as a great test, as it was poorly shot in general. See this review: The Meg 4K UHD Blu-ray Review "Instead, the entire movie is blindingly bright, to a point of being uncomfortable. That ugly, misfiring contrast is made worse when attached to the high lumens levels." I found other forum discussions that agree.


----------



## mirzank

For the global version of the formovie theatre can anyone confirm that the projector indeed has earc? not clear on the projector screen order page as it only says hdmi. I know the Chinese t1 has earc but considering some changes in the global version I just want to confirm it has the earc port as I will be using it with the Sonos arc


----------



## Dave Harper

donw said:


> I'm not sure I would hold out The Meg as a great test, as it was poorly shot in general. See this review: The Meg 4K UHD Blu-ray Review "Instead, the entire movie is blindingly bright, to a point of being uncomfortable. That ugly, misfiring contrast is made worse when attached to the high lumens levels." I found other forum discussions that agree.


But that proves my point then. It even tone maps that outrageously bright scene! Although it does look a little better at 600 nits in the DV Block and best at 300 nits, but I don’t set my reference level using that scene. I use the one from Aquaman and when I do that then everything I subsequently play is near perfect, like Mad Max: Fury Road.


----------



## m0j0

Afternoon pics of Aladdin when the sun was still up but cloudy. I boosted brightness enough to compensate for the ambient light and also used Office Mode brightness to get the brightest picture. This is with the DV tab on the Vrroom at 300 nits.

Brightness Mode: Office Mode
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 57
Contrast: 79
Saturation: 40
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 50


----------



## gonzo86

Have you seen The Northman 4k UHD (Dolby Vision)? Would love to see how your settings handle the black levels in this movie since there's a ton of dark scenes using only natural lighting and fires. MadVR (beta version) handles it well until it gets to the scene where they show the sword being forged underground. The MadVR HDR tone mapping freaks out and starts flickering a bit, but if I passthrough HDR to display it stops the flickering. I tried changing tweaking some MadVR HDR settings and still couldn't get rid of the flickering. But the movie overall is the best I've found thus far for messing with HDR settings in dark scenes with natural lighting and fire. 

My settings for The Northman:

Brightness Mode: Office Mode
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 51
Contrast: 75
Saturation: 53
Sharpness: 50
Tone: 52
Motion Comp and Dynamic Contrast: Off

Colors Custom
Red 902
Green 995
Blue 913

MadVR
Tone map HDR using pixel shaders
Peak nits: 1000
Color tweaks, highlight and shadow recovery: disabled
Contrast recovery: Log Low
Dynamic target nits: 1000
HSTM: no brightening and no darkening
Limit HSTM 0-100
Flicker protection: didn't change the flickering in the sword forging scene so I left it off




m0j0 said:


> Afternoon pics of Aladdin when the sun was still up but cloudy. I boosted brightness enough to compensate for the ambient light and also used Office Mode brightness to get the brightest picture. This is with the DV tab on the Vrroom at 300 nits.
> 
> Brightness Mode: Office Mode
> Image Parameters: Custom
> Brightness: 57
> Contrast: 79
> Saturation: 40
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 50


----------



## rjyap

gonzo86 said:


> Have you seen The Northman 4k UHD (Dolby Vision)? Would love to see how your settings handle the black levels in this movie since there's a ton of dark scenes using only natural lighting and fires. MadVR (beta version) handles it well until it gets to the scene where they show the sword being forged underground. The MadVR HDR tone mapping freaks out and starts flickering a bit, but if I passthrough HDR to display it stops the flickering. I tried changing tweaking some MadVR HDR settings and still couldn't get rid of the flickering. But the movie overall is the best I've found thus far for messing with HDR settings in dark scenes with natural lighting and fire.
> 
> My settings for The Northman:
> 
> Brightness Mode: Office Mode
> Image Parameters: Custom
> Brightness: 51
> Contrast: 75
> Saturation: 53
> Sharpness: 50
> Tone: 52
> Motion Comp and Dynamic Contrast: Off
> 
> Colors Custom
> Red 902
> Green 995
> Blue 913
> 
> MadVR
> Tone map HDR using pixel shaders
> Peak nits: 1000
> Color tweaks, highlight and shadow recovery: disabled
> Contrast recovery: Log Low
> Dynamic target nits: 1000
> HSTM: no brightening and no darkening
> Limit HSTM 0-100
> Flicker protection: didn't change the flickering in the sword forging scene so I left it off


The peak nits should be your measure maximum nits using white test pattern. For my screen around 114" 1.0 gain, I'm using peak nits around 160 nits with view mode. Try this out as I didn't have flickering issue.


----------



## ProFragger

Dave Harper said:


> But HDR is still based on a 10,000 nit absolute PQ “gamma” curve. So mastering at 1,000 nits is still being compressed from the full standard. I do get what you’re saying though and it makes sense of course, but my eyes tell me otherwise when I compare a 10,000 nit Custom HDR metadata and a 1,000 nit one.
> 
> Maybe it’s avoiding the dreaded double tone mapping that everyone talks about? When I input 10,000 nits max luminance on the HDR/AVI tab instead of 1,000 nits it clearly makes a marked difference as compared to 1,000. I think it’s opening up the display and basically cancels out any tone mapping it’s doing when it receives a 10,000 nit metadata signal. It then allows the DV Data Block Tab’s max luminance to do its job properly and tone map to the specified level you put there. I literally just tested this again last night and it worked absolutely perfectly on scenes like Chapter 6 of Aquaman and chapter 8 of The Meg. So much so that I’m kind of regretting spending all that money building a nice madVR with VideoProcessor HTPC. I literally do not need it!


@Dave Harper - Can you share these settings for Vertex2 or Vrroom or whatever HDFury device you're using? Especially the HDR and DV tab settings? 

Thank you.


----------



## ProFragger

m0j0 said:


> Afternoon pics of Aladdin when the sun was still up but cloudy. I boosted brightness enough to compensate for the ambient light and also used Office Mode brightness to get the brightest picture. This is with the DV tab on the Vrroom at 300 nits.
> 
> Brightness Mode: Office Mode
> Image Parameters: Custom
> Brightness: 57
> Contrast: 79
> Saturation: 40
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 50


No more View Mode @m0j0?


----------



## ProFragger

mcusman2012 said:


> @m0j0 my vrroom has suddenly stopped implementing DV tab luminance. Is it a bug? Now nothing happens to the picture anymore even if i change DV tab values. It has become static. Previously it used to change brightness and contrast of my screen depending upon luminance values. But now when i click send DV my screens goes black for 1 second and then comes back without any changes. How should i fix it now?


I feel like this with my Vertex2 all the time. But the better eyes here never complain of this till I saw your post. I don't know if I have a defective unit or not... Wish there were extreme settings we could apply to obviously see if our HDFury devices are truly working? 

@Dave Harper suggested that it's likely I have a setting chosen that's rendering the Vertex2, ineffective, but I've compared it to @m0j0's settings dozens of times and the screens don't look any different to me 😊. 

Not sure man... 🤷🏽


----------



## okvcos

ProFragger said:


> @Dave Harper - Can you share these settings for Vertex2 or Vrroom or whatever HDFury device you're using? Especially the HDR and DV tab settings?
> 
> Thank you.


I join .... thank you


----------



## m0j0

ProFragger said:


> No more View Mode @m0j0?


Was just trying out Office Mode during the daylight/afternoon and felt the extra brightness was working well in this situation. However, I am using View Mode at night.


----------



## m0j0

Latest settings on my T1 using my Roku for night time viewing:

Brightness Mode: View Mode
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 53
Contrast: 48
Saturation: 50
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 50
Color: Custom
Red: 954
Green: 935
Blue: 923


----------



## m0j0

Settings I was testing Aladdin with last night on the Zidoo Z9X using the Vrroom at 300 nits on the DV tab

Brightness Mode (take your pick, Night, View and Office all work well)
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 53
Contrast: 79
Saturation: 40
Sharpness: 22
Tone:46
Color: Custom
Red: 954
Green: 935
Blue: 923


----------



## Dave Harper

ProFragger said:


> @Dave Harper - Can you share these settings for Vertex2 or Vrroom or whatever HDFury device you're using? Especially the HDR and DV tab settings?
> 
> Thank you.





ProFragger said:


> I feel like this with my Vertex2 all the time. But the better eyes here never complain of this till I saw your post. I don't know if I have a defective unit or not... Wish there were extreme settings we could apply to obviously see if our HDFury devices are truly working?
> 
> @Dave Harper suggested that it's likely I have a setting chosen that's rendering the Vertex2, ineffective, but I've compared it to @m0j0's settings dozens of times and the screens don't look any different to me .
> 
> Not sure man...





























The last circled setting is most important and what I see changes the image the most as it’s raised and lowered. 

1,000 works best overall and I’ve gone as low as 250 for The Meg bright scenes, but that makes it way too low and dull for normal 1,000 nit mastered movies which is about 99% of them. 600 nits was a decent compromise, but it took away some of that “HDR Effect” I really like.

Keep in mind this is using an AppleTV 4K so your source may react differently.


----------



## okvcos

Dave Harper said:


> The last circled setting is most important and what I see changes the image the most as it’s raised and lowered.
> 
> 1,000 works best overall and I’ve gone as low as 250 for The Meg bright scenes, but that makes it way too low and dull for normal 1,000 nit mastered movies which is about 99% of them. 600 nits was a decent compromise, but it took away some of that “HDR Effect” I really like.
> 
> Keep in mind this is using an AppleTV 4K so your source may react differently.


thanks Dave, but unfortunately you don't see any of the data entered in the tables ... all out of focus


----------



## Dave Harper

okvcos said:


> thanks Dave, but unfortunately you don't see any of the data entered in the tables ... all out of focus


Sorry I made them smaller to take up less space. I’ll redo them in the original post.


----------



## Dave Harper

Done!


----------



## ProFragger

Dave Harper said:


> The last circled setting is most important and what I see changes the image the most as it’s raised and lowered.
> 
> 1,000 works best overall and I’ve gone as low as 250 for The Meg bright scenes, but that makes it way too low and dull for normal 1,000 nit mastered movies which is about 99% of them. 600 nits was a decent compromise, but it took away some of that “HDR Effect” I really like.
> 
> Keep in mind this is using an AppleTV 4K so your source may react differently.


Thanks so much Dave! 1000 nits is the sweet spot, got it! But a few posts ago, weren't you leaning towards 10000 being a great choice as well?


----------



## ProFragger

m0j0 said:


> Settings I was testing Aladdin with last night on the Zidoo Z9X using the Vrroom at 300 nits on the DV tab
> 
> Brightness Mode (take your pick, Night, View and Office all work well)
> Image Parameters: Custom
> Brightness: 53
> Contrast: 79
> Saturation: 40
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone:46
> Color: Custom
> Red: 954
> Green: 935
> Blue: 923


Interesting... The Blue values are now caught up to the Red and Green range 😊? What changed bud? 

I thought I saw some folks attempting calibrated settings here and their Blue were significantly lower than Red and Green.


----------



## m0j0

ProFragger said:


> Interesting... The Blue values are now caught up to the Red and Green range 😊? What changed bud?
> 
> I thought I saw some folks attempting calibrated settings here and their Blue were significantly lower than Red and Green.


You know me, always trying stuff out. This gives a more coolish white than a warmish one, and I kinda like how everything looks, so it's been working good for me so far.


----------



## Dave Harper

ProFragger said:


> Thanks so much Dave! 1000 nits is the sweet spot, got it! But a few posts ago, weren't you leaning towards 10000 being a great choice as well?


Some content like streaming iTunes movies from my AppleTV work very well with 10,000 nits in both the HDR and DV blocks. It’s pretty subtle but noticeable. 

For anyone wanting set and forget I think a value between 600-1,000 seems to work best but it really depends on your display.


----------



## afshin khazaeli

[edited]


----------



## gonzo86

I tried peak nits from 20 to 1000 and flickering remained. I’m projecting onto a white wall so the higher nits worked for me.



rjyap said:


> The peak nits should be your measure maximum nits using white test pattern. For my screen around 114" 1.0 gain, I'm using peak nits around 160 nits with view mode. Try this out as I didn't have flickering issue.


----------



## gonzo86

How did you go about setting up 3D LUT?



rjyap said:


> I don't think setting the HDFury to 10,000 nits would have less compression compare to 1000 nits. That would depends on the source if it's encoded with max 1000 nits or 10,000 nits data. If from audio perspective, it would be like upscaling 44khz CD to 192khz HD Audio. Does it have less compression when upscale to 192khz HD Audio? Personally I don't think so as if the music been heavily compress to begin with then upscaling wouldn't help.
> 
> I'm also a madVR user using 3D LUT so for me that's the best combo for T1. No more tinkering for SDR vs HDR if output using HDR to SDR BT. 2020 DTM.


----------



## HCMKII

m0j0 said:


> Afternoon pics of Aladdin when the sun was still up but cloudy. I boosted brightness enough to compensate for the ambient light and also used Office Mode brightness to get the brightest picture. This is with the DV tab on the Vrroom at 300 nits.
> 
> Brightness Mode: Office Mode
> Image Parameters: Custom
> Brightness: 57
> Contrast: 79
> Saturation: 40
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 50


m0j0: For information, VRROOM firmware version 0.36 beta is available.


----------



## spocky12

Dave Harper said:


> Don't shoot the messenger! I am no programmer, that's for sure. I just reported what they themselves have said many times in the past regarding this issue. Maybe try going to their Discord Channel for the answer direct from them?


My post wasnt meant to be aggressive. Sorry if it looked otherwise. 
I was just surprised by this memory justification, but they probably have good reasons.


----------



## m0j0

HCMKII said:


> m0j0: For information, VRROOM firmware version 0.36 beta is available.


Thanks for the heads up! I don't see it on the download page yet...


----------



## HCMKII

m0j0 said:


> Thanks for the heads up! I don't see it on the download page yet...


Available on Discord. HDfury.com. Vrroom.


----------



## rjyap

gonzo86 said:


> How did you go about setting up 3D LUT?


Look for DisplayCAL (free) or other commercial apps that can generate 3D LUT with a colorimeter profile against a spectrometer.


----------



## m0j0

I have some new settings for my T1 that I'm working with. Here they are:

For the Roku Ultra (set to 4k only, no HDR, no DV):
Brightness Mode: View Mode
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 53
Contrast: 49
Saturation: 53 (alternative 46 if you like less saturated look)
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 50 (alternative 51)
Color: Custom
Red: 1015
Green: 995
Blue: 907

With the Vrroom set to 300 nits on the DV tab for both of these:

For the Zidoo Z9X:
Brightness Mode: View Mode
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 53
Contrast: 65 (alternative 62)
Saturation: 48
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 50
Color: Custom
Red: 1015
Green: 995
Blue: 907

For the Sony X800M2 (DV on)
Brightness Mode: View Mode
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 53
Contrast: 62
Saturation: 46
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 51
Color: Custom
Red: 1015
Green: 995
Blue: 907


----------



## mphilamp

I'm resigned to admit, after several tries, that the T1 I got has optical flaws

- If I properly put the projector in front, centered, that it's perpendicular to the screen etc... : I get a ****ed up left top area and 1 quarter (starting from left side) turns to light blue instead of white (but hopefully it's subtle)
-> the geometry looks a little bit like that :









and yes the screen is perfectly flat, it's a vivid storm floor rising

To fix it I play both with geometry and angle of projection .... So i get focus issues on top left corner

 not very pleased even though I can live with it. I think i'ts worth mentionning


----------



## antjes

mphilamp said:


> I'm resigned to admit, after several tries, that the T1 I got have optical flaws
> 
> - If I properly put the projector in front, centered, vertically etc... : I get a ****ed up left top area and 1 quarter (starting from left side) turns to light blue instead of white (but hopefully it's subtle)
> -> the geometry looks a little bit like that :
> View attachment 3299556
> 
> 
> and yes the screen is perfectly flat, it's a vivid storm floor rising
> 
> To fix it I play both with geometry and angle of projection .... So i get focus issues on top left corner
> 
> not very pleased even though I can live with it. I think i'ts worth mentionning


Have you calibrated it with internal tool?
you should do it before anything, I dont remember which menu has that option, engineer mediatek or FengOs. Look in this post, several pages ago.


----------



## antjes

mphilamp said:


> I'm resigned to admit, after several tries, that the T1 I got have optical flaws
> 
> - If I properly put the projector in front, centered, vertically etc... : I get a ****ed up left top area and 1 quarter (starting from left side) turns to light blue instead of white (but hopefully it's subtle)
> -> the geometry looks a little bit like that :
> View attachment 3299556
> 
> 
> and yes the screen is perfectly flat, it's a vivid storm floor rising
> 
> To fix it I play both with geometry and angle of projection .... So i get focus issues on top left corner
> 
> not very pleased even though I can live with it. I think i'ts worth mentionning











Formovie Fengmi T1


This is new discovery for me, after installing the "Projectivy tools" app. Perhaps the T1 uses AI computing through the eye-protecting camera and sensor to obtain the best focal length. The result of the autofocus function is as follows, 1. Adjust the focal length to the farthest before focusing...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## mphilamp

antjes said:


> Formovie Fengmi T1
> 
> 
> This is new discovery for me, after installing the "Projectivy tools" app. Perhaps the T1 uses AI computing through the eye-protecting camera and sensor to obtain the best focal length. The result of the autofocus function is as follows, 1. Adjust the focal length to the farthest before focusing...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


Thank you very much, I'll try that later this evening when back from work.. even though I don't think it will be able to fix geometry issues.. I'll tell you what I end up with (I'll provide pictures)


----------



## zoomx2

Support @formovie told me a beta firmware available but needs to be pushed in batches. It is a fix for the HDMI handshake issue. Please email support to push for beta firmware.


----------



## m0j0

Some pics


----------



## m0j0

These are with the lower saturation of 46 and tone of 51, but otherwise the same settings under Roku Ultra above (I was also playing around with exposure on my iphone for that pic of the chess match)


----------



## m0j0

And here's a few more with the normal saturation and tone levels indicated a few posts up for the Zidoo Z9X


----------



## JereyWolf

mphilamp said:


> I'm resigned to admit, after several tries, that the T1 I got has optical flaws
> 
> - If I properly put the projector in front, centered, that it's perpendicular to the screen etc... : I get a ****ed up left top area and 1 quarter (starting from left side) turns to light blue instead of white (but hopefully it's subtle)
> -> the geometry looks a little bit like that :
> View attachment 3299556
> 
> 
> and yes the screen is perfectly flat, it's a vivid storm floor rising
> 
> To fix it I play both with geometry and angle of projection .... So i get focus issues on top left corner
> 
> not very pleased even though I can live with it. I think i'ts worth mentionning


Mine has skewed geometry that is similar to your sketch. It's impossible for me to get the left and right sides parallel and my bottom edge has a harsh slope on the left quarter similar to your top left. I've just learned to live with over shooting most of the screen and pulling it all back in with keystone.


----------



## JereyWolf

Global version gets high praise from @kraine on just about everything. It even appears to have better contrast and max luminance after calibration... and lower input lag.... and adjustable parameters for dolby vision tone mapping. Really awesome. 









Test Formovie Theater - Mondoprojos.fr


Test Formovie theater




www.mondoprojos.fr


----------



## rjyap

mphilamp said:


> I'm resigned to admit, after several tries, that the T1 I got has optical flaws
> 
> - If I properly put the projector in front, centered, that it's perpendicular to the screen etc... : I get a ****ed up left top area and 1 quarter (starting from left side) turns to light blue instead of white (but hopefully it's subtle)
> -> the geometry looks a little bit like that :
> View attachment 3299556
> 
> 
> and yes the screen is perfectly flat, it's a vivid storm floor rising
> 
> To fix it I play both with geometry and angle of projection .... So i get focus issues on top left corner
> 
> not very pleased even though I can live with it. I think i'ts worth mentionning


Are u sure floor rising screen is perfectly flat? Best to use a laser leveling tool to check. Here’s the sharpness test pattern just taken on fixed frame and camera pointing at the center of the screen.


----------



## mphilamp

rjyap said:


> View attachment 3299898
> 
> 
> 
> Are u sure floor rising screen is perfectly flat? Best to use a laser leveling tool to check. Here’s the sharpness test pattern just taken on fixed frame and camera pointing at the center of the screen.


yeah, I'm really sure unfortunately and I have the same issue with various other "less flat surfaces", every time the average resulting geometry is quite the same (distorded/lowered top side + top left corner)

Formovie support answered to me.. asking some questions...I hope they will be able to do something.


----------



## zoomx2

Guys, please email support and add your unit to the list to push for beta firmware. I was told it fixes the HDMI handshakes issue. Who knows maybe improve focus and other stuff.


----------



## m0j0

zoomx2 said:


> Guys, please email support and add your unit to the list to push for beta firmware. I was told it fixes the HDMI handshakes issue. Who knows maybe improve focus and other stuff.


Thanks for the heads up. I sent an email to them.


----------



## rooterha

zoomx2 said:


> Guys, please email support and add your unit to the list to push for beta firmware. I was told it fixes the HDMI handshakes issue. Who knows maybe improve focus and other stuff.


Sent an email. Thx. If we could somehow get the T1 closer to feature parity with the T1 International I'll keep it. Right now considering the switch.


----------



## zoomx2

T1 vs Global version mainly a software difference. Hardware T1 is even superior, hopefully they can push for software improvements.


----------



## JRock3x8

That vertical offset is a deal breaker for me. Insane. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JereyWolf

I think it's also worth noting for those of us that can not get our corners in focus, on @kraine 's first review unit (of the global version), it was also not able to get good focus...I'm not sure if that was mostly in one corner for him or even across the screen.
But his unit ended up being defective and a new unit had much better uniform sharpness.


----------



## gonzo86

Can you post the email address here for us? Thanks



zoomx2 said:


> Guys, please email support and add your unit to the list to push for beta firmware. I was told it fixes the HDMI handshakes issue. Who knows maybe improve focus and other stuff.


----------



## zaselim

mphilamp said:


> I'm resigned to admit, after several tries, that the T1 I got has optical flaws
> 
> - If I properly put the projector in front, centered, that it's perpendicular to the screen etc... : I get a ****ed up left top area and 1 quarter (starting from left side) turns to light blue instead of white (but hopefully it's subtle)
> -> the geometry looks a little bit like that :
> View attachment 3299556
> 
> 
> and yes the screen is perfectly flat, it's a vivid storm floor rising
> 
> To fix it I play both with geometry and angle of projection .... So i get focus issues on top left corner
> 
> not very pleased even though I can live with it. I think i'ts worth mentionning


I have the same problem with the left side (1 quarter) is bit blue compared to the rest of the screen. Actually to be more accurate the left side (1st quarter) has very slight blue tint center (2nd & 3rd quarter) of the screen has very slight red tint and the right side(4th quarter) is proper white. I also have a left top corner slightly less focused than the rest but i can read everything fine on that side and i don't have any issue with the screen placement like you posted in the picture. And i don't notice any color tint issue when watching content and is only noticeable on the white background.


----------



## zaselim

zoomx2 said:


> Guys, please email support and add your unit to the list to push for beta firmware. I was told it fixes the HDMI handshakes issue. Who knows maybe improve focus and other stuff.


wait, is there another beta version after the proper 2.0 firmware release? Do you know the version number?


----------



## JereyWolf

gonzo86 said:


> Can you post the email address here for us? Thanks


[email protected]


zaselim said:


> wait, is there another beta version after the proper 2.0 firmware release? Do you know the version number?


Not yet available apparently, this is the answer I got from them last night:
"At present, the beta version of the T1 machine has not been released. 

I will register the SN code and Bluetooth address you gave me. Once the beta version is released, the product manager will push it in order."

I think they meant MAC address, not Bluetooth address.


----------



## zaselim

JereyWolf said:


> [email protected]
> 
> Not yet available apparently, this is the answer I got from them last night:
> "At present, the beta version of the T1 machine has not been released.
> 
> I will register the SN code and Bluetooth address you gave me. Once the beta version is released, the product manager will push it in order."
> 
> I think they meant MAC address, not Bluetooth address.


Yeah i know, it is the MAC address. Let us know when you get the beta version.


----------



## mcusman2012

ProFragger said:


> Thanks so much Dave! 1000 nits is the sweet spot, got it! But a few posts ago, weren't you leaning towards 10000 being a great choice as well?


Plz correct me if i am wrong @m0j0 . In your settings in DV tab the back-light control was set to "non supported" and backlight minlum to 100 as i remember. Have you tried changing these values as per @Dave Harper . Secondly i am still using DV 130nits of max luminance as i think its the sweet spot for most of the HDR tone mapping that gives more detailed image in dark scenes.


----------



## m0j0

mcusman2012 said:


> Plz correct me if i am wrong @m0j0 . In your settings in DV tab the back-light control was set to "non supported" and backlight minlum to 100 as i remember. Have you tried changing these values as per @Dave Harper . Secondly i am still using DV 130nits of max luminance as i think its the sweet spot for most of the HDR tone mapping that gives more detailed image in dark scenes.


Dave is the master of the HDFury devices, so I would always recommend following his lead when it comes to settings. I did of course try those on my own setup some time ago and did not find a noticeable/appreciable effect, at least not on my T1. I agree that 130 is great if you're really focused on tone mapping dark scenes. However, I found that 300 nits was more of the sweet spot for me, once I turned up brightness a bit. There is a super dark scene in Dune where the lady is in all black and laying down and a space ship comes down with blaring white light, and it's really hard to make out her silhouette (though you can just see her face), so I know when I can play that scene well that I have a good tone mapped setup going.


----------



## zoomx2

1st email
Glad to receive your letter!

Currently we have a beta version in order to solve the HDMI connection problem. 

If you are interested in the beta version, please provide me your SN code and Bluetooth Mac Address. 

2nd email
Sorry for the notification, the current beta version needs to be pushed in batches, we have included you on the list, please be patient!

Thank you for your support!

So more ppl on the list earlier they can push it out. It happened it in all previous beta firmware.


----------



## m0j0

I'm registered for the beta as well:

"
At present, the beta version of the T1 machine has not been released. 

I will register the SN code and Bluetooth address you gave me. Once the T1 beta version is released, the product manager will push it in order. 

Thank you for your support!
"


----------



## mphilamp

JereyWolf said:


> se of us that can not get our corners in focus, on @kraine 's first review unit (of the global version), it was also not able to get good focus...I'm not sure if that was mostly in one corner for him or even across the screen.
> But his unit ended up being defective and a new unit had much better unif


I mean, these defects occur a lot then !


----------



## JereyWolf

mphilamp said:


> I mean, these defects occur a lot then !


Yeah, if it is truly a defect on many of our units.
I still feel it's a minor enough problem that it would not be worth shipping to China for service for me.


----------



## tnaik4

For official firmware releases ( not beta ) do u guys send them an email for it or should the T1 detect that there is an update?


----------



## antjes

tnaik4 said:


> For official firmware releases ( not beta ) do u guys send them an email for it or should the T1 detect that there is an update?


Official firmware is detected automatically.

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## tnaik4

I have just recieved my unit, its only showing 4k-30hz on pc, ive read here but cant find it that i need to switch something to enable 4k-60hz,


----------



## ACE844

tnaik4 said:


> I have just recieved my unit, its only showing 4k-30hz on pc, ive read here but cant find it that i need to switch something to enable 4k-60hz,


Try switching the HDMI setting to auto or 2.1


----------



## tnaik4

ACE844 said:


> Try switching the HDMI setting to auto or 2.1


Yes thanks, finally found the setting, getting used to the settings.


----------



## tnaik4

So i too have the upper focus not as good as the lower side of the image.
Didnt have time yet to fully setting it up, any tips will be appreciated.


----------



## mirzank

For those that have been in touch with fengmi support, are there any indications they will add cms to Chinese version or is that a no go ?


----------



## m0j0

mirzank said:


> For those that have been in touch with fengmi support, are there any indications they will add cms to Chinese version or is that a no go ?


I specifically requested it but all they said is they would consider it if a lot of people ask for it.


----------



## mphilamp

m0j0 said:


> I specifically requested it but all they said is they would consider it if a lot of people ask for it.


I asked strongly for it as well (in my last message to their [email protected] about defects)


----------



## m0j0

My settings (updated July 26th)

Nvidia Shield Pro 2019 (running 4k SDR only, no HDR, no DV):
Brightness Mode: View Mode
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 50 (+3 during daytime viewing)
Saturation: 46
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 50
Color: Custom
Red: 901
Green: 944
Blue: 883

Roku Ultra (running 4k only, no HDR, no DV):
Brightness Mode: View Mode
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 53
Contrast: 49 (+3 during daytime viewing)
Saturation: 50
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 50
Color: Custom
Red: 901
Green: 944
Blue: 883

Zidoo Z9X if running with 600MHz Rec709 SDR custom EDID with Dolby Vision VS10 Engine enabled for SDR/HDR,etc (my current preference):
Brightness Mode: View Mode
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 67
Saturation: 46
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 50
Color: Custom
Red: 901
Green: 944
Blue: 883

Zidoo Z9X if running with LLDV enabled (300 nits DV tab):
Brightness Mode: View Mode
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 53
Contrast: 64
Saturation: 48
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 50
Color: Custom
Red: 901
Green: 944
Blue: 883

Sony X700M2 (300 nits DV tab):
Brightness Mode: View Mode
Image Parameters: Custom
Brightness: 53
Contrast: 61
Saturation: 45
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 50
Color: Custom
Red: 901
Green: 944
Blue: 883


----------



## m0j0

Some pictures with above settings


----------



## tnaik4

m0j0 said:


> I specifically requested it but all they said is they would consider it if a lot of people ask for it.


I just got my unit, did a quick testing with MadVR without much calibration in my dedicated room, black velvet all over, got to say its pretty impressive, colors are stunning, contrast is 3100:1 .

But changing the RGB gains doesnt do anything, the meter not registering any change and i cant see any difference. 
Do u see any difference visibly while changing rgb gains ?


----------



## okvcos

m0j0 said:


> Some pictures with above settings



it would be interesting to see how the contrast with white pawns behaves , with Zidoo setting


----------



## m0j0

tnaik4 said:


> I just got my unit, did a quick testing with MadVR without much calibration in my dedicated room, black velvet all over, got to say its pretty impressive, colors are stunning, contrast is 3100:1 .
> 
> But changing the RGB gains doesnt do anything, the meter not registering any change and i cant see any difference.
> Do u see any difference visibly while changing rgb gains ?


Make sure you are using Brightness Mode of View Mode. If you have selected Office Mode, the RGB changes won't have any effect.


----------



## tnaik4

m0j0 said:


> Make sure you are using Brightness Mode of View Mode. If you have selected Office Mode, the RGB changes won't have any effect.


Ohh, so they work in view mode only, i ll try it out when i m back, have plenty of testing to do.

Do u have the upper side less focused than the the rest of the image on ur unit ? I disnt set it 100% correctly yet, it might improve with proper placement.


----------



## m0j0

tnaik4 said:


> Ohh, so they work in view mode only, i ll try it out when i m back, have plenty of testing to do.
> 
> Do u have the upper side less focused than the the rest of the image on ur unit ? I disnt set it 100% correctly yet, it might improve with proper placement.


My focus is pretty good. It might be a slight bit soft in the upper corner but not really noticeable after I go all the way left in the focus menu for about 15 seconds, then do about 2 or 3 clicks to the right.


----------



## mphilamp

For reference you'll find attached the picture of the distortion I was speaking about after careful proper placement of the unit (I mean the logical placement). As you can see there is an issue on top left corner and it's not the screen. Horizontal color banding is due to the camera.


----------



## tnaik4

Deleted


----------



## Dave Harper

tnaik4 said:


> I just got my unit, did a quick testing with MadVR without much calibration in my dedicated room, black velvet all over, got to say its pretty impressive, colors are stunning, contrast is 3100:1 .
> 
> But changing the RGB gains doesnt do anything, the meter not registering any change and i cant see any difference.
> Do u see any difference visibly while changing rgb gains ?





m0j0 said:


> Make sure you are using Brightness Mode of View Mode. If you have selected Office Mode, the RGB changes won't have any effect.





tnaik4 said:


> Ohh, so they work in view mode only, i ll try it out when i m back, have plenty of testing to do.
> 
> Do u have the upper side less focused than the the rest of the image on ur unit ? I disnt set it 100% correctly yet, it might improve with proper placement.


FYI, Office Mode works with RGB Gains, White Balance and CMS on the ForMovie Theater international version.


----------



## mphilamp

Dave Harper said:


> Balance and CMS on the F





Dave Harper said:


> FYI, Office Mode works with RGB Gains, White Balance and CMS on the ForMovie Theater international version.


Ok... one additionnal reason to get the international version to have great HDR10 / DV with this (office) high brightness mode


----------



## Malaveae

mphilamp said:


> For reference you'll find attached the picture of the distortion I was speaking about after careful proper placement of the unit (I mean the logical placement). As you can see there is an issue on top left corner and it's not the screen. Horizontal color banding is due to the camera.
> View attachment 3300431


I´m assuming that you also reset the 4 or 8 point alignment in the other setting screen. Right?


----------



## okvcos

okvcos said:


> it would be interesting to see how the contrast with white pawns behaves , with Zidoo setting


No white pawns ?


----------



## zoomx2

mphilamp said:


> For reference you'll find attached the picture of the distortion I was speaking about after careful proper placement of the unit (I mean the logical placement). As you can see there is an issue on top left corner and it's not the screen. Horizontal color banding is due to the camera.
> View attachment 3300431


Adjust the wheel on the left side of the unit. Then use keystone to fine tune. Nothing wrong with the picture I see.


----------



## tnaik4

What is the solution for top side of the image being out of focus compared to the buttom side.


----------



## tnaik4

Does anyone plz has a link about projectivi tool, on where to download and how to install ?

Thank you


----------



## mphilamp

Malaveae said:


> I´m assuming that you also reset the 4 or 8 point alignment in the other setting screen. Right?


Absolutely, I'm not that dumb (a little bit but not that much  )


----------



## m0j0

Dave Harper said:


> FYI, Office Mode works with RGB Gains, White Balance and CMS on the ForMovie Theater international version.


Yep, good to know, thanks for that clarification!


----------



## JereyWolf

tnaik4 said:


> What is the solution for top side of the image being out of focus compared to the buttom side.


No solution yet...many of us just live with it.


----------



## JereyWolf

zoomx2 said:


> Adjust the wheel on the left side of the unit. Then use keystone to fine tune. Nothing wrong with the picture I see.


Changing the height of the projector legs effects the entire screen geometry, so it would throw everything else out of whack. And you can't use keystone to drag the image outward.

I have similar skewed picture geometry on mine. 
I'm forced to oversize the whole image and use keystone to shrink it all back in to compensate for the defects.


----------



## tnaik4

JereyWolf said:


> No solution yet...many of us just live with it.


I noticed the smaller the image the better the focus accros the whole screen.
Wouldnt that mean its a placement issue ?
I mean if its a lens issue or some hardware issue why it looks pretty good with small screen size.


----------



## mirzank

Dave Harper said:


> FYI, Office Mode works with RGB Gains, White Balance and CMS on the ForMovie Theater international version.


You had mentioned here that the international version has dynamic tone mapping, but the review here specifically mentions it doesn’t have dynamic tone mapping. 









Test Formovie Theater - Mondoprojos.fr


Test Formovie theater




www.mondoprojos.fr





Thoughts ?

Also the review mentions lack of sharpness but the new unit fixed it. When you checked did you have a similar issue or was that one off unit defect ?


----------



## rjyap

JereyWolf said:


> l it's a minor enough problem that it would not be worth shipping to China fo





mphilamp said:


> For reference you'll find attached the picture of the distortion I was speaking about after careful proper placement of the unit (I mean the logical placement). As you can see there is an issue on top left corner and it's not the screen. Horizontal color banding is due to the camera.


Try turn your projector slightly counterclockwise. That should balance out your left side to right side. You might need to shift your projector slightly to the right after turning the projector.


----------



## JackB

mphilamp said:


> For reference you'll find attached the picture of the distortion I was speaking about after careful proper placement of the unit (I mean the logical placement). As you can see there is an issue on top left corner and it's not the screen. Horizontal color banding is due to the camera.
> View attachment 3300431


I had the Bomaker Polaris for a short time and its manual had two or three pages on how to alighn the picture by working with the height adjustable legs. The pages showed sketches of the various issues like you upper left corner and how to fix it. Now the Bomaker had four legs. How many does the T1 have? If you have three then obviously the manual wont help.


----------



## tnaik4

how many lumens are u guys getting in office mode, i feel like i should be getting more lumens or my i1d3 isnt measuring it correctly, i m getting like 1400 lumens and thats not calibrated.

ive read in the thread that the i1d3 isnt good for USTs , maybe its not reading correctly.


----------



## Dave Harper

mirzank said:


> You had mentioned here that the international version has dynamic tone mapping, but the review here specifically mentions it doesn’t have dynamic tone mapping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test Formovie Theater - Mondoprojos.fr
> 
> 
> Test Formovie theater
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.mondoprojos.fr
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts ?
> 
> Also the review mentions lack of sharpness but the new unit fixed it. When you checked did you have a similar issue or was that one off unit defect ?


I think I answered this earlier in the thread. I believe I may have inadvertently had the signal using some sort of tone mapping device in my hdmi signal chain. 

I’m now thinking maybe it was my AppleTV being set to always on Dolby Vision, so since this has DV built in it forced DV even on HDR and SDR signals. 

I usually don’t even think about this because all the other projectors I’ve played with needed the Vertex2 in line to spoof the EDID to make it think DV was supported, but I had that disconnected, not even thinking that THIS particular projector has native DV built in! 

I do intend to double check this when I get the chance though, but even so it could be a nice find in that those that have a source device that can force DV can use that to get pseudo dynamic tone mapping. It worked quite well as you saw on that Aquaman scene!


----------



## mirzank

Dave Harper said:


> I think I answered this earlier in the thread. I believe I may have inadvertently had the signal using some sort of tone mapping device in my hdmi signal chain.
> 
> I’m now thinking maybe it was my AppleTV being set to always on Dolby Vision, so since this has DV built in it forced DV even on HDR and SDR signals.
> 
> I usually don’t even think about this because all the other projectors I’ve played with needed the Vertex2 in line to spoof the EDID to make it think DV was supported, but I had that disconnected, not even thinking that THIS particular projector has native DV built in!
> 
> I do intend to double check this when I get the chance though, but even so it could be a nice find in that those that have a source device that can force DV can use that to get pseudo dynamic tone mapping. It worked quite well as you saw on that Aquaman scene!


Thanks for the response. So the good news is since I have an Apple TV that can force dv I should be able to use the benefits of the international version.


----------



## humax

FORMOVIE FENGMI T1 - O melhor Laser TV do mundo! - YouTube

Another review of the T1 from a Brazilian reviewer and fellow forum member. You will need auto-translate.


----------



## Dave Harper

mirzank said:


> Thanks for the response. So the good news is since I have an Apple TV that can force dv I should be able to use the benefits of the international version.


I believe the T1 also has Dolby Vision so either one should work, if that’s what it was anyway. I haven’t verified yet.


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> New settings:
> 
> Roku Ultra (running 4k only, no HDR, no DV):
> Brightness Mode: View Mode
> Image Parameters: Custom
> Brightness: 53
> Contrast: 49
> Saturation: 53
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 50
> Color: Custom
> Red: 901
> Green: 944
> Blue: 883
> 
> Zidoo Z9X (300 nits DV tab):
> Brightness Mode: View Mode
> Image Parameters: Custom
> Brightness: 53
> Contrast: 64
> Saturation: 48
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 50
> Color: Custom
> Red: 901
> Green: 944
> Blue: 883
> 
> Sony X700M2 (300 nits DV tab):
> Brightness Mode: View Mode
> Image Parameters: Custom
> Brightness: 53
> Contrast: 61
> Saturation: 45
> Sharpness: 22
> Tone: 50
> Color: Custom
> Red: 901
> Green: 944
> Blue: 883


LOL, the flavor of the month?


----------



## donw

@Dave Harper have you played with Projectivi color adjustment to get good color for dolby vision sources direct into the Chinese T1?


----------



## tnaik4

donw said:


> @Dave Harper have you played with Projectivi color adjustment to get good color for dolby vision sources direct into the Chinese T1?


I dont think projectivi has color adjustments, its rgb gains-offset though.
I m using it on my T1 and its UI is really better than the stock UI, with plenty of apps to download.
Netflix though isnt working for some reason, it keeps getting stuck on loading.


----------



## tnaik4

Ive had the T1 for 1 day, and i got the say combined with MadVR its amazing that this level of performance can be had for such a price!!!
Colors are amazing, contrast is pretty good and actually looks better than the nbrs, best i got is 3270:1 .
I m using on a regular white 1.0 screen, so losing some lumena because of the light angle, but in a dedicated room like mine i dont really need more.
Keep in mind i have a JVC rs440 that I use mostly anf the T1 is better is every aspect except contrast, but the overall picture is extreemly good. It has that look to it that i cant explain.
I mean in like 10 hours of testing i had like 2 scenes where i felt the black level isnt enough.

This is my first UST ever and alignment is a pain lol, any miss alignment hurt sharpness, i still need to work on getting it perfect but any sharpness issue isnt visible during contact, on the opposite, it looks super sharp during content.


----------



## donw

tnaik4 said:


> Ive had the T1 for 1 day, and i got the say combined with MadVR its amazing that this level of performance can be had for such a price!!!
> Colors are amazing, contrast is pretty good and actually looks better than the nbrs, best i got is 3270:1 .
> I m using on a regular white 1.0 screen, so losing some lumena because of the light angle, but in a dedicated room like mine i dont really need more.
> Keep in mind i have a JVC rs440 that I use mostly anf the T1 is better is every aspect except contrast, but the overall picture is extreemly good. It has that look to it that i cant explain.
> I mean in like 10 hours of testing i had like 2 scenes where i felt the black level isnt enough.
> 
> This is my first UST ever and alignment is a pain lol, any miss alignment hurt sharpness, i still need to work on getting it perfect but any sharpness issue isnt visible during contact, on the opposite, it looks super sharp during content.


Sounds like a great setup. With MadVR, what kind of signal do you send to the T1 (LLDV, SD, HDR)? Do different source types (DV, SD, HDR need special color offset?


----------



## tnaik4

donw said:


> Sounds like a great setup. With MadVR, what kind of signal do you send to the T1 (LLDV, SD, HDR)? Do different source types (DV, SD, HDR need special color offset?


U just send an SDR signal, MadVR does everything, u can though send HDR signal if u want and let the projector do the tone mapping which is actually not bad but vastly inferior to MadVR.
And DV/SD/HDR all use the same setting, once u set it up u just forget it, but if ur the type that like to tinker, it has a ton of option to try out.


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> LOL, the flavor of the month?


LOL, flavor of the week more like it...


----------



## shanedowley

Apart from Gregory’s review of the Formovie Theater version of the T1, anyone know of others?


----------



## m0j0

shanedowley said:


> Apart from Gregory’s review of the Formovie Theater version of the T1, anyone know of others?


I think we are still awaiting the review from Dave Harper. Hopefully that is coming soon.


----------



## Dave Harper

donw said:


> @Dave Harper have you played with Projectivi color adjustment to get good color for dolby vision sources direct into the Chinese T1?


No I haven’t. 



m0j0 said:


> I think we are still awaiting the review from Dave Harper. Hopefully that is coming soon.


Yes it’s been turned in and just waiting on publishing. We had some delays due to the first unit having what seemed like some focus issues.


----------



## spocky12

zaselim said:


> wait, is there another beta version after the proper 2.0 firmware release? Do you know the version number?


I can't tell much because I haven't installed it, but static software analysis on the latest 2.1.2 OTA shows a few things :

default motion judder compensation is now high instead of middle
dv config has changed _a lot_
pq config also changed
the update is larger than the previous one (going from 1.4.6 to 2.0.0). Almost 200Mb more of uncompressed data in system and vendor partitions. I don't know what it is (new system and vendor apps ?), but that's quite big. Note that it might not result in a lot of changes throughout the UI, though. I guess we'll have to wait a bit more to know.


----------



## donw

spocky12 said:


> I can't tell much because I haven't installed it, but static software analysis on the latest 2.1.2 OTA shows a few things :
> 
> default motion judder compensation is now high instead of middle
> dv config has changed _a lot_
> pq config also changed
> the update is larger than the previous one (going from 1.4.6 to 2.0.0). Almost 200Mb more of uncompressed data in system and vendor partitions. I don't know what it is (new system and vendor apps ?), but that's quite big. Note that it might not result in a lot of changes throughout the UI, though. I guess we'll have to wait a bit more to know.


But no 2nd custom color?
And no color control under DV?
I think if they added those things and fixed the HDMI issue, lots of people would be very happy!


----------



## spocky12

donw said:


> But no 2nd custom color?
> And no color control under DV?
> I think if they added those things and fixed the HDMI issue, lots of people would be very happy!


Like I said, I didn't install the latest OTA (if it's not available yet, it's probably not totally ready and I wouldn't want bugs on my main tv, nor risking a brick) 
So I just extracted partitions that could be extracted (mostly configuration files), and checked what changed. As for system and vendor apps, there are no full versions in the OTAs, only patches for the apps already installed, so I can't tell except the (surprisingly big) size of it.


----------



## zaselim

tnaik4 said:


> Ohh, so they work in view mode only, i ll try it out when i m back, have plenty of testing to do.
> 
> Do u have the upper side less focused than the the rest of the image on ur unit ? I disnt set it 100% correctly yet, it might improve with proper placement.


No, they only don't work in Office Mode.


----------



## zaselim

spocky12 said:


> I can't tell much because I haven't installed it, but static software analysis on the latest 2.1.2 OTA shows a few things :
> 
> default motion judder compensation is now high instead of middle
> dv config has changed _a lot_
> pq config also changed
> the update is larger than the previous one (going from 1.4.6 to 2.0.0). Almost 200Mb more of uncompressed data in system and vendor partitions. I don't know what it is (new system and vendor apps ?), but that's quite big. Note that it might not result in a lot of changes throughout the UI, though. I guess we'll have to wait a bit more to know.


Thanks, I'll wait to mail the [email protected] to add me on the beta list until they start releasing the 2.1 beta.


----------



## ProjectionHead

m0j0 said:


> I think we are still awaiting the review from Dave Harper. Hopefully that is coming soon.


Ask and ye shall receive:








Formovie Theater UST Projector Review (Global Version of Fengmi T1)


Introduction We are excited to be working with Formovie on the launch of their latest and greatest projector, the Formovie Theater here in the USA. There has been a lot of buzz around this particular model based on it's predecessor, the...




www.projectorscreen.com


----------



## rjyap

Dave Harper said:


> 1 also has Dolby Vision so either one should work, if that’s what it was anyway. I





tnaik4 said:


> Ive had the T1 for 1 day, and i got the say combined with MadVR its amazing that this level of performance can be had for such a price!!!
> Colors are amazing, contrast is pretty good and actually looks better than the nbrs, best i got is 3270:1 .
> I m using on a regular white 1.0 screen, so losing some lumena because of the light angle, but in a dedicated room like mine i dont really need more.
> Keep in mind i have a JVC rs440 that I use mostly anf the T1 is better is every aspect except contrast, but the overall picture is extreemly good. It has that look to it that i cant explain.
> I mean in like 10 hours of testing i had like 2 scenes where i felt the black level isnt enough.
> 
> This is my first UST ever and alignment is a pain lol, any miss alignment hurt sharpness, i still need to work on getting it perfect but any sharpness issue isnt visible during contact, on the opposite, it looks super sharp during content.


Would love to hear your opinion against Runco Projector too. My measurement is also around 3200:1 for China T1 version after calibration. For very dark movie, you can try to switch from View Mode to Night or Silent mode for lower light output thus lowering the black level. Not ideal as it's not dynamic but for Batman, this would give a more satisfactory viewing. A big surprise for me when moving from traditional 0.66" DC3 chip to 0.47" XPR chip, is the smaller chip is sharper and with higher contrast.


----------



## m0j0

ProjectionHead said:


> Ask and ye shall receive:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Formovie Theater UST Projector Review (Global Version of Fengmi T1)
> 
> 
> Introduction We are excited to be working with Formovie on the launch of their latest and greatest projector, the Formovie Theater here in the USA. There has been a lot of buzz around this particular model based on it's predecessor, the...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.projectorscreen.com


Much appreciated! Now if we can get that head to head between the Chinese T1 and the Global Formovie with some calibrated settings that would be really sweet!


----------



## m0j0

More pics with current settings on the Z9X and Roku Ultra


----------



## tnaik4

rjyap said:


> Would love to hear your opinion against Runco Projector too. My measurement is also around 3200:1 for China T1 version after calibration. For very dark movie, you can try to switch from View Mode to Night or Silent mode for lower light output thus lowering the black level. Not ideal as it's not dynamic but for Batman, this would give a more satisfactory viewing. A big surprise for me when moving from traditional 0.66" DC3 chip to 0.47" XPR chip, is the smaller chip is sharper and with higher contrast.


From initial impressions the T1 has better colors/brighter and sharper( except the top side/corners ) , overall i think the T1 superior in every aspect, except black level since Runco dynamic black is pretty effective with minor artifacts. 

Will do though an A/B comparison cause i m interested also to know how some scenes compare.


----------



## praetor28

m0j0 said:


> Some pictures with above settings


Images look great. If you don’t mind me asking, what is the movie/show from the first group of pictures before Aladdin? I’ve seen you use those for quite a bit of examples. Very bright with rich colors.


----------



## tnaik4

Guys i have really good news for whoever is brave enough!!!

I fixed the top half the image being out of focus, i was brave enough to take the projector cover off to see whats the problem cause i suspected the lens focus ring is stuck or somthing at a certain point because i had that issue once in a long throw lens before.
And what do u know, that was exaxtly the issue, all i had to do was push with my finger the ring a little more to the edge and now focus is great, when u do this though do not try to focus again, cause once u take it back u cant get there with remote, i dont know why its stuck there but the good thing about ust is once u focus it it ll stay focused no matter what screen size u use. So just leave it there and forget it.

In the focus image, this is black velvet from the ceiling i m installing and didnt finish yet, its not a projector issue.


----------



## JereyWolf

tnaik4 said:


> Guys i have really good news for whoever is brave enough!!!
> 
> I fixed the top half the image being out of focus, i was brave enough to take the projector cover off to see whats the problem cause i suspects the lens focus ring is stuck or somthing at a certain point because i had that issue once in a long throw lens before.
> And what do u know, that was exaxtly the issue, all i had to do was push with my finger the ring a little more to the edge and now focus is great, when u do this though do not try to focus again, cause once u take it back u cant get there with remote, i dont know why its stuck there but the good thing about ust is once u focus it it ll stay focused no matter what screen size u use. So just leave it there and forget it.
> 
> In the focus image, this is black velvet from the ceiling i m installing and didnt finish yet, its not a projector issue.


Thank you for being the first to take the plunge!


----------



## tnaik4

JereyWolf said:


> Thank you for being the first to take the plunge!


Its pretty easy, if u decide to do it, plz pay attention when u remove the cover because it has some cables connected to the board, like the fengmi Logo Light and the eye detection IR, so unuplug those before u snatch it out.


----------



## JereyWolf

tnaik4 said:


> Its pretty easy, if u decide to do it, plz pay attention when u remove the cover because it has some cables connected to the board, like the fengmi Logo Light and the eye detection IR, so unuplug those before u snatch it out.


So just so that I'm clear on this, because I think I'll attempt it myself. 
You essentially manually adjusted the ring to get proper focus?

I think I could figure out which ring to turn, but for the sake of anyone willing to try this, would you mind adding a pointer or circling the specific ring in one of your phots?


----------



## tnaik4

JereyWolf said:


> So just so that I'm clear on this, because I think I'll attempt it myself.
> You essentially manually adjusted the ring to get proper focus?
> 
> I think I could figure out which ring to turn, but for the sake of anyone willing to try this, would you mind adding a pointer or circling the specific ring in one of your phots?


Yes sure, this is the ring in the picture, when u take the cover off plug the projector and try to change focus, ull see the ring going slowly from left to right, but ull notice if u look at it really close that its stopping before it reach the max, so push it with ur finger to the max.

I tried forcing it ledt and right 3-4 times to see if it loosen up and it start going to the max using rhe remote bit it didnt, so i just set it and forget ir.


----------



## m0j0

praetor28 said:


> Images look great. If you don’t mind me asking, what is the movie/show from the first group of pictures before Aladdin? I’ve seen you use those for quite a bit of examples. Very bright with rich colors.


The first picture is from Encanto, the next 3 are from Incredibles 2, and the 2 after that are from Dune.


----------



## rjyap

tnaik4 said:


> Yes sure, this is the ring in the picture, when u take the cover off plug the projector and try to change focus, ull see the ring going slowly from left to right, but ull notice if u look at it really close that its stopping before it reach the max, so push it with ur finger to the max.
> 
> I tried forcing it ledt and right 3-4 times to see if it loosen up and it start going to the max using rhe remote bit it didnt, so i just set it and forget ir.


I don't have this issue as when I adjust my focus I can go from blur to very sharp then blur again. Which means my focus range is within the adjustment range possible using the remote.


----------



## tnaik4

rjyap said:


> I don't have this issue as when I adjust my focus I can go from blur to very sharp then blur again. Which means my focus range is within the adjustment range possible using the remote.


Yeah than u must have a fully functional one, the fact that many ppl have the same exact issue means the focus ring on the lens isnt of best quality.
And many ppl might have it without knowing, mine looked good at 100inch, once i go over that it doesnt focus no matter what.
Now after the fix i m at 130inch and it looks pretty good, before if i go that big it just not readable at all with the upper side of the picture.


----------



## Dave Harper

tnaik4 said:


> Guys i have really good news for whoever is brave enough!!!
> 
> I fixed the top half the image being out of focus, i was brave enough to take the projector cover off to see whats the problem cause i suspected the lens focus ring is stuck or somthing at a certain point because i had that issue once in a long throw lens before.
> And what do u know, that was exaxtly the issue, all i had to do was push with my finger the ring a little more to the edge and now focus is great, when u do this though do not try to focus again, cause once u take it back u cant get there with remote, i dont know why its stuck there but the good thing about ust is once u focus it it ll stay focused no matter what screen size u use. So just leave it there and forget it.
> 
> In the focus image, this is black velvet from the ceiling i m installing and didnt finish yet, its not a projector issue.


Next project, take that UST lens out and replace it with a standard throw lens so we can FINALLY have an affordable, good triple laser front throw projector!!!


----------



## mirzank

tnaik4 said:


> Guys i have really good news for whoever is brave enough!!!
> 
> I fixed the top half the image being out of focus, i was brave enough to take the projector cover off to see whats the problem cause i suspected the lens focus ring is stuck or somthing at a certain point because i had that issue once in a long throw lens before.
> And what do u know, that was exaxtly the issue, all i had to do was push with my finger the ring a little more to the edge and now focus is great, when u do this though do not try to focus again, cause once u take it back u cant get there with remote, i dont know why its stuck there but the good thing about ust is once u focus it it ll stay focused no matter what screen size u use. So just leave it there and forget it.
> 
> In the focus image, this is black velvet from the ceiling i m installing and didnt finish yet, its not a projector issue.


Any chance you could draw on that image which piece to push?

Edit: just saw someone else requested this and you provided the picture


----------



## tnaik4

mirzank said:


> Any chance you could draw on that image which piece to push?
> 
> Edit: just saw someone else requested this and you provided the picture


Yes, i share a pic with an arrow on which one to push, even if it seems like its already to the max, it ll go another 2-3mm , thats what it takes to focus it.
I m on 130inch now and its pretty good, the top is just a tad softer but not out of focus anymore, i tried smaller screen at around 110inch and its razor sharp all over.


----------



## antjes

spocky12 said:


> I can't tell much because I haven't installed it, but static software analysis on the latest 2.1.2 OTA shows a few things :
> 
> default motion judder compensation is now high instead of middle
> dv config has changed _a lot_
> pq config also changed
> the update is larger than the previous one (going from 1.4.6 to 2.0.0). Almost 200Mb more of uncompressed data in system and vendor partitions. I don't know what it is (new system and vendor apps ?), but that's quite big. Note that it might not result in a lot of changes throughout the UI, though. I guess we'll have to wait a bit more to know.


@spocky12 are you talking about the new beta for T1?
If afirmative, how you get that info?

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## praetor28

m0j0 said:


> The first picture is from Encanto, the next 3 are from Incredibles 2, and the 2 after that are from Dune.


Think I should have been more specific as you have posted a lot of great photos. But it’s the previous image group with the people wearing Victorian/English clothes in the green park along the river that I’m curious about.


----------



## m0j0

praetor28 said:


> Think I should have been more specific as you have posted a lot of great photos. But it’s the previous image group with the people wearing Victorian/English clothes in the green park along the river that I’m curious about.


Ah, ok, that’s Bridgerton Season 1 on Netflix. Episode 2 for the river scene.


----------



## praetor28

m0j0 said:


> Ah, ok, that’s Bridgerton Season 1 on Netflix. Episode 2 for the river scene.


Thank you, appreciate it. 🙏


----------



## ProjectionHead

Dave Harper said:


> Next project, take that UST lens out and replace it with a standard throw lens so we can FINALLY have an affordable, good triple laser front throw projector!!!


Appotronics has been pushing me to OEM one… maybe we should crowdfund it here


----------



## Ricoflashback

ProjectionHead said:


> Appotronics has been pushing me to OEM one… maybe we should crowdfund it here


How about horizontal and vertical lens shift for the International T1? Would that require a whole new lens? That would take a lot of the pain out of setting up a UST projector. Lens memory and the ability to use a scope screen with a UST setup would be wonderful. And a real threat to Epson and potentially JVC. 

Lastly - enable the speaker to be setup as a "center speaker" (and make it a quality one or even an option) for the cherry on top of the wishing, Formovie cake.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Ricoflashback said:


> How about horizontal and vertical lens shift for the International T1? Would that require a whole new lens? That would take a lot of the pain out of setting up a UST projector. Lens memory and the ability to use a scope screen with a UST setup would be wonderful. And a real threat to Epson and potentially JVC.
> 
> Lastly - enable the speaker to be setup as a "center speaker" (and make it a quality one or even an option) for the cherry on top of the wishing, Formovie cake.


Not sure about the lens shift, but I’ve spoken with several companies about the center channel option. XGIMI actually seemed to be the most interested in the concept.
Challenge comes in with matching to the l/r channels for existing speakers or producing a matching l/r of their own


----------



## Dave Harper

ProjectionHead said:


> Appotronics has been pushing me to OEM one… maybe we should crowdfund it here


Prepare to make millions of dollars if you do!!!!













Ricoflashback said:


> How about horizontal and vertical lens shift for the International T1? Would that require a whole new lens? That would take a lot of the pain out of setting up a UST projector. Lens memory and the ability to use a scope screen with a UST setup would be wonderful. And a real threat to Epson and potentially JVC.
> 
> Lastly - enable the speaker to be setup as a "center speaker" (and make it a quality one or even an option) for the cherry on top of the wishing, Formovie cake.


I think that would be an engineering feat to do lens shift on a UST. It would probably double or triple the costs. I don’t recall even seeing that in the commercial realm when I was a Director with PSAV.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Dave Harper said:


> Prepare to make millions of dollars if you do!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think that would be an engineering feat to do lens shift on a UST. It would probably double or triple the costs. I don’t recall even seeing that in the commercial realm when I was a Director with PSAV.


C'mon Dave - ye of Harpervision where all things are possible. Probably a much bigger and higher quality lens - for sure. I'd pay two grand for it providing it was a better lens with lens memory. The size of the projector would increase and if they got rid of the speaker, it would be much more feasible. 

Always an issue with center speaker placement with a UST projector. If you keep the speaker(s), they wouldn't have to match, sonically, as that would be difficult. Most people would be very happy with a clear center for dialog and forego an exact matching center. I know I would. Maybe go to the various vendors and plug in their speaker to Formovie's specs. Can't be that hard. 

Even a minimal horizontal and vertical lens shift would take the guest work out of alignment to your screen. And, less of any keystone adjustment. That would be a huge win, IMHO.


----------



## Pharynx

I have X box series x with this T1. I found that it’s resolution is only 1080p then i adjusted it to 4k. But it said “your tv doesn’t support”. How can i fix it?


----------



## tnaik4

Pharynx said:


> I have X box series x with this T1. I found that it’s resolution is only 1080p then i adjusted it to 4k. But it said “your tv doesn’t support”. How can i fix it?


Check what hdmi ur chosing, chose hdmi 2.1 , also check ur cable if its good.


----------



## JereyWolf

Pharynx said:


> I have X box series x with this T1. I found that it’s resolution is only 1080p then i adjusted it to 4k. But it said “your tv doesn’t support”. How can i fix it?


You'll run into this frequently. The projector often starts up in HDMI 1.4 mode, regardless of what HDMI version you have selected in the settings. This is what you'll see frequently referred to here as the HDMI handshake issue. We're all hoping that this is fixed soon via firmware update. 

The fix for this problem is to go to the "Play Settings" and switch between HDMI types, ending on the one you actually want to use.


----------



## shanedowley

JereyWolf said:


> You'll run into this frequently. The projector often starts up in HDMI 1.4 mode, regardless of what HDMI version you have selected in the settings. This is what you'll see frequently referred to here as the HDMI handshake issue. We're all hoping that this is fixed soon via firmware update.
> 
> The fix for this problem is to go to the "Play Settings" and switch between HDMI types, ending on the one you actually want to use.


Anyone know if the new Formovie Theater (international version of the T1) has this HDMI handshake issue fixed?


----------



## ProFragger

tnaik4 said:


> Guys i have really good news for whoever is brave enough!!!
> 
> I fixed the top half the image being out of focus, i was brave enough to take the projector cover off to see whats the problem cause i suspected the lens focus ring is stuck or somthing at a certain point because i had that issue once in a long throw lens before.
> And what do u know, that was exaxtly the issue, all i had to do was push with my finger the ring a little more to the edge and now focus is great, when u do this though do not try to focus again, cause once u take it back u cant get there with remote, i dont know why its stuck there but the good thing about ust is once u focus it it ll stay focused no matter what screen size u use. So just leave it there and forget it.
> 
> In the focus image, this is black velvet from the ceiling i m installing and didnt finish yet, its not a projector issue.


Wow! What an amazing contribution to the community! Thanks man! 

For the less brave of us, would you consider doing a quick video guide on this fix, including removing the covers, tools you used and their gauge, etc? 

Appreciate it again!


----------



## tnaik4

ProFragger said:


> Wow! What an amazing contribution to the community! Thanks man!
> 
> For the less brave of us, would you consider doing a quick video guide on this fix, including removing the covers, tools you used and their gauge, etc?
> 
> Appreciate it again!


When i open it up again i ll make sure to make a video this time. 
Overall the whole process took around 30min, my upper half was very out of focus once i projected 130inch, now its really really good.


----------



## Ricoflashback

tnaik4 said:


> When i open it up again i ll make sure to make a video this time.
> Overall the whole process took around 30min, my upper half was very out of focus once i projected 130inch, now its really really good.


Are you going to name your video “How To Void Your Warranty?” Just kidding - glad the fix worked for you. I’m hoping the T1 International solves the focus issue. I’m not sure but I believe that the larger the screen, the bigger the focus issue can be.


----------



## ProFragger

tnaik4 said:


> When i open it up again i ll make sure to make a video this time.
> Overall the whole process took around 30min, my upper half was very out of focus once i projected 130inch, now its really really good.


Thank you so much! Looking forward to it! I'm sure so many of us would be grateful for this here! We don't really want to send back to China for this fix... 



Ricoflashback said:


> Are you going to name your video “How To Void Your Warranty?” Just kidding - glad the fix worked for you. I’m hoping the T1 International solves the focus issue. I’m not sure but I believe that the larger the screen, the bigger the focus issue can be.


I don't know why this is true man, but I went from a 100" to 120" and my focus issue is MUCH, MUCH, less noticeable thank on the 100? It's still bad... But almost quite bearable, even in the keystone set page...


----------



## ProFragger

@m0j0, next time you're tinkering with some of your calibration tools... Do you mind sharing a quick tune on your 1000 nits DV settings? I really don't think my Vertex2 makes a huge difference (maybe it's defective), but per @Dave Harper's suggestion, I want to get to as much of a set it and forget it state with 1000 nits being the widest used setting for most DV content. 

Looking for the custom color settings mainly for DV, streaming content. Contrast, Saturation, etc will also be tremendously helpful! 

Thanks man!


----------



## donw

HDR10+
Finally ran into an HDR10+ source: season 6 of The Expanse. My AVR actually displayed the HDR10+ icon, so I know it was coming in that way. The T1 had much different colors than regular HDR10--red was much more muted, and so was blue. I have blue turned way down for my normal HDR viewing, and I had to boost it a lot to get decent looking color. I know people say that the T1 does not play HDR10+, but my AVR says otherwise. What have been other's results when playing HDR10+ sources?


----------



## mcusman2012

What data you have to send to support for beta update program? Serial number? Bluetooth mac adress or wifi mac address or ethernet mac address?
By the way saw the news of L9G received the DV firmware update.


----------



## tnaik4

Ricoflashback said:


> Are you going to name your video “How To Void Your Warranty?” Just kidding - glad the fix worked for you. I’m hoping the T1 International solves the focus issue. I’m not sure but I believe that the larger the screen, the bigger the focus issue can be.


Hahahaha, well send it to china and back with customs again will cost me around $600, id rather do it myself, but i m handy in this stuff so i understand if some ppl are hesitant.


----------



## mirzank

tnaik4 said:


> Hahahaha, well send it to china and back with customs again will cost me around $600, id rather do it myself, but i m handy in this stuff so i understand if some ppl are hesitant.


Was actually curious about this, how much duty did you have to pay importing it into Lebanon?


----------



## tnaik4

mirzank said:


> Was actually curious about this, how much duty did you have to pay importing it into Lebanon?


Its around 70-80usd, shipping was 280usd insured.


----------



## Brajesh

@donw , nice discovery on HDR10+. Which AVR do you use? I previously tested for HDR10+ using Zidoo Z9X, but will try using Fire TV Stick (assuming it's what you used) when I get my Theater version Formovie.


----------



## m0j0

ProFragger said:


> @m0j0, next time you're tinkering with some of your calibration tools... Do you mind sharing a quick tune on your 1000 nits DV settings? I really don't think my Vertex2 makes a huge difference (maybe it's defective), but per @Dave Harper's suggestion, I want to get to as much of a set it and forget it state with 1000 nits being the widest used setting for most DV content.
> 
> Looking for the custom color settings mainly for DV, streaming content. Contrast, Saturation, etc will also be tremendously helpful!
> 
> Thanks man!


I've tested just about every nits level on the T1 and I have more or less settled on 300 nits now. 1,000 nits is also good but once in awhile it is a bit much on the white levels so, for me, 300 is much more set it and forget it.


----------



## donw

Brajesh said:


> @donw , nice discovery on HDR10+. Which AVR do you use? I previously tested for HDR10+ using Zidoo Z9X, but will try using Fire TV Stick (assuming it's what you used) when I get my Theater version Formovie.


Amazon Prime into Onkyo TX-RZ50 AVR then to T1.


----------



## Dave Harper

m0j0 said:


> I've tested just about every nits level on the T1 and I have more or less settled on 300 nits now. 1,000 nits is also good but once in awhile it is a bit much on the white levels so, for me, 300 is much more set it and forget it.


I can’t wait to try it on a Theater model!

Brand and model of display/projector really gives wildly different settings when using the HDFURY for LLDV, as I’m learning now after testing so many lately.


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> I've tested just about every nits level on the T1 and I have more or less settled on 300 nits now. 1,000 nits is also good but once in awhile it is a bit much on the white levels so, for me, 300 is much more set it and forget it.


"Set it and forget it?" I thought those words weren't in your vocabulary. Just kidding - - I, as well as many others, appreciate the work and tinkering you've done with all the settings. I'm looking forward to my International T1 and will probably have just "out of the box" colors for awhile. And, no screen, yet, as we are in an apartment before we look for a house. Maybe a cheapy screen that's very lightweight. I don't want to tear down the thin walls with a heavy screen. 

I'm not sure if the "OOTB" settings are similar (or the exact same?) for the China T1 versus the International T1.


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> "Set it and forget it?" I thought those words weren't in your vocabulary. Just kidding - - I, as well as many others, appreciate the work and tinkering you've done with all the settings. I'm looking forward to my International T1 and will probably have just "out of the box" colors for awhile. And, no screen, yet, as we are in an apartment before we look for a house. Maybe a cheapy screen that's very lightweight. I don't want to tear down the thin walls with a heavy screen.
> 
> I'm not sure if the "OOTB" settings are similar (or the exact same?) for the China T1 versus the International T1.


Yeah, that’s mostly been the “hobby” aspect of it for me. I’m pretty happy with the current settings and find myself changing things less often.


----------



## ACE844

Dave Harper said:


> I can’t wait to try it on a Theater model!
> 
> Brand and model of display/projector really gives wildly different settings when using the HDFURY for LLDV, as I’m learning now after testing so many lately.



Dave,

Do you upconvert everything to LLDV using the HDFury or are you using theBT.2020 SD settingsfulltime similar to @m0j0?


----------



## Dave Harper

ACE844 said:


> Dave,
> 
> Do you upconvert everything to LLDV using the HDFury or are you using theBT.2020 SD settingsfulltime similar to @m0j0?


I haven’t tried the HDFURY on the Theater yet, but it depends on the projector whether I use LLDV for everything or just for HDR10 and DV.


----------



## ProFragger

m0j0 said:


> I've tested just about every nits level on the T1 and I have more or less settled on 300 nits now. 1,000 nits is also good but once in awhile it is a bit much on the white levels so, for me, 300 is much more set it and forget it.


Thanks @m0j0, can you refer me to your latest or best so far DV settings for 300 nits, then? 😊


----------



## ProFragger

Dave Harper said:


> I can’t wait to try it on a Theater model!
> 
> Brand and model of display/projector really gives wildly different settings when using the HDFURY for LLDV, as I’m learning now after testing so many lately.


Eager to see what you recommend for the T1, Dave, if you ever play with the projector and an HDFury device with it in the future! 😊 

Thanks for your contributions to this community!


----------



## m0j0

ProFragger said:


> Thanks @m0j0, can you refer me to your latest or best so far DV settings for 300 nits, then? 😊


Sure. Here's the link to the latest settings I am using:









Formovie Fengmi T1


I mean, these defects occur a lot then ! Yeah, if it is truly a defect on many of our units. I still feel it's a minor enough problem that it would not be worth shipping to China for service for me.




www.avsforum.com


----------



## m0j0

A few more pics


----------



## shanedowley

Anyone on this thread own the Formovie Theater (FT) model of the T1 yet? It seems to tick all the boxes. Am considering it. Currently with the Xiaomi C2 which is already excellent but lacking tri-color laser and CMS.
Does the FT present the same HDMI handshake issues as the T1 and C2?


----------



## tnaik4

Since i have the projector open already, i ve been messing around with things to improve focus other than the focus ring, and ive made big improvements. 
Check this out, keep in mind this is a unit that had significant out of focus upper side at this size ( around 130inch ) , and now its super clean accross the whole screen.


----------



## Ricoflashback

tnaik4 said:


> Since i have the projector open already, i ve been messing around with things to improve focus other than the focus ring, and ive made big improvements.
> Check this out, keep in mind this is a unit that had significant out of focus upper side at this size ( around 130inch ) , and now its super clean accross the whole screen.


Those pics look great! Lots of color saturation and very vivid.


----------



## tnaik4

Ricoflashback said:


> Those pics look great! Lots of color saturation and very vivid.


I think u wanted to quote m0j0 lol


----------



## m0j0

And some nature pics


----------



## m0j0

tnaik4 said:


> Since i have the projector open already, i ve been messing around with things to improve focus other than the focus ring, and ive made big improvements.
> Check this out, keep in mind this is a unit that had significant out of focus upper side at this size ( around 130inch ) , and now its super clean accross the whole screen.


Looks good! What other things did you mess around with besides the focus ring?


----------



## tnaik4

m0j0 said:


> Looks good! What other things did you mess around with besides the focus ring?


I did mess up with the alignement by tightening and loosening some screws, also i pushed up a little bit the mirror area, i can now fully focus the projector with the remote after i did that.


----------



## rjyap

tnaik4 said:


> I did mess up with the alignement by tightening and loosening some screws, also i pushed up a little bit the mirror area, i can now fully focus the projector with the remote after i did that.


You should highlight which part that you have tinker with to adjust the focus for anyone facing top softness issue. This would help lots of users here.


----------



## patels922

tnaik4 said:


> I did mess up with the alignement by tightening and loosening some screws, also i pushed up a little bit the mirror area, i can now fully focus the projector with the remote after i did that.


A video would be fantastic! 

Thanks in Advance


----------



## Ricoflashback

patels922 said:


> A video would be fantastic!
> 
> Thanks in Advance


Alright. A full manual with a video presentation. Do I hear a "Go Fund My T1 Adjustment" as a possibility?


----------



## tnaik4

patels922 said:


> A video would be fantastic!
> 
> Thanks in Advance


I ll try to make a video when i can, but if anyone want to try and have questions, feel free to dm me so i can help.


----------



## ProFragger

@tnaik4 - It's time now man... You've come too far and triggered too much attention from us tinkerers now to NOT make an awesome step by step video 😊!

I'm with @Ricoflashback, happy to send some coffee money too once it's out to thank you for your bravery and effort! 😉

Thanks bud!


----------



## m0j0

After updating my Nvidia Shield Pro 2019 to version 9.1, I'm going to be switching back over to it from the Roku Ultra for daily use, since I now have the ability to keep everything set at 4k SDR on the Shield. The picture for 4k is pretty much the same, but the Shield just feels slightly more refined overall, especially with black and white levels, and also there does seem to be an advantage for 1080p/HD content with the AI upscaling of the Shield.


----------



## Ricoflashback

An "off the wall" question - pun intended. When I get my International T1 - initially, I'll be using a light beige wall to project the image on. Short term solution as I intend on buying a cheaper screen (should be better than a wall) as we are renting and I'll invest in a better screen when we buy a house. Out of the box settings for projecting the T1 on a wall? I know there are going to be imperfections but I thought I'd ask.


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> After updating my Nvidia Shield Pro 2019 to version 9.1, I'm going to be switching back over to it from the Roku Ultra for daily use, since I now have the ability to keep everything set at 4k SDR on the Shield. The picture for 4k is pretty much the same, but the Shield just feels slightly more refined overall, especially with black and white levels, and also there does seem to be an advantage for 1080p/HD content with the AI upscaling of the Shield.


How did you force 4K SDR with the Nvidia Shield Pro? New setting?


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> How did you force 4K SDR with the Nvidia Shield Pro? New setting?


Yes, it is a new setting in version 9.1. There is now a slider to disable HDR.


__
https://www.reddit.com/r/ShieldAndroidTV/comments/voap8z


----------



## Dave Harper

m0j0 said:


> Yes, it is a new setting in version 9.1. There is now a slider to disable HDR.
> 
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/ShieldAndroidTV/comments/voap8z


Blasphemy!!!


----------



## JereyWolf

Dave Harper said:


> Blasphemy!!!


This may be outside of the scope of this thread, but it's a serious question.

If SDR bt.2020 is available from your source and your display is limited to less than 100 nits, is there any reason to use HDR?

I can image one line of reasoning being SDR content typically mastered for rec.709 has to be stretched for bt.2020.

Does typical HDR content also have a 4k/SDR mastered equivalent... when you disable HDR from the source, does the HDR content have to be "converted to SDR" or are you just watching the SDR master...and if it does have to be converted from HDR to SDR, how is that different than just tone mapping it for 100nit max luminance?


----------



## Ricoflashback

Dave Harper said:


> Blasphemy!!!


What is blasphemous is how long HDR and Dolby Vision has been around with all the inherent problems in getting it right. To me, probably the biggest, hyped failure (think "big hat, no cattle) in the A/V world.


----------



## jeff9n

Ricoflashback said:


> What is blasphemous is how long HDR and Dolby Vision has been around with all the inherent problems in getting it right. To me, probably the biggest, hyped failure (think "big hat, no cattle) in the A/V world.


I agree 100%. HDR and DV bring darker picture and colors that are too artifiicial. Granted they provide a nice pop to show off the projector. But I want color accuracy when watching movies.


----------



## gonzo86

I have it on a white-ish wall it looks great. Only problem is that you'll see any and all imperfections when it comes to flatness. For example, I never noticed that the wall wasn't completely flat but instead is wavey. It's a little distracting when the camera pans, and you can see waves at the top of the image, but otherwise it's good enough for me. Will get a screen eventually but I'm renting for now so it's a temporary solution.




Ricoflashback said:


> An "off the wall" question - pun intended. When I get my International T1 - initially, I'll be using a light beige wall to project the image on. Short term solution as I intend on buying a cheaper screen (should be better than a wall) as we are renting and I'll invest in a better screen when we buy a house. Out of the box settings for projecting the T1 on a wall? I know there are going to be imperfections but I thought I'd ask.


----------



## Brajesh

jeff9n said:


> I agree 100%. HDR and DV bring darker picture and colors that are too artifiicial. Granted they provide a nice pop to show off the projector. But I want color accuracy when watching movies.


True to a significant extent, but DV done well can look sooo good. But, to your point, there are plenty of movies if I was being totally honest where I like the colors of regular 1080p Blu-rays.


----------



## ProFragger

On the topic of the Shield Pro, I once wrote to the Nvidia support staff to allow SDR and also allow the a force LLDV option. Looks like they did implement the former, but let me tell you guys on how almost disgusted they were on the latter. I gave examples of some solid boxes that allow this like ATV4K, Roku Ultra, Chromecast and they basically told me, in almost these words... Go use those boxes. The Shield Pro does not and will not do this... 😅. Bad attitude aside... Curious why are they so harsh to reject? I was met with similar disgust on the Shield Pro subreddit... Their members basically tell me to GTFO LOL! 

Thoughts?


----------



## m0j0

ProFragger said:


> On the topic of the Shield Pro, I once wrote to the Nvidia support staff to allow SDR and also allow the a force LLDV option. Looks like they did implement the former, but let me tell you guys on how almost disgusted they were on the latter. I gave examples of some solid boxes that allow this like ATV4K, Roku Ultra, Chromecast and they basically told me, in almost these words... Go use those boxes. The Shield Pro does not and will not do this... 😅. Bad attitude aside... Curious why are they so harsh to reject? I was met with similar disgust on the Shield Pro subreddit... Their members basically tell me to GTFO LOL!
> 
> Thoughts?


Perhaps they have a more "purist" mentality, so in their minds if their box supports SD, HDR and DV, why would you want it to force everything to LLDV, just let it play whichever native mode/format is being presented. That is their perspective, not taking into account the display's capabilities or needs.


----------



## Ricoflashback

gonzo86 said:


> I have it on a white-ish wall it looks great. Only problem is that you'll see any and all imperfections when it comes to flatness. For example, I never noticed that the wall wasn't completely flat but instead is wavey. It's a little distracting when the camera pans, and you can see waves at the top of the image, but otherwise it's good enough for me. Will get a screen eventually but I'm renting for now so it's a temporary solution.


Very much appreciated. Yes - I know about the imperfections and expect them. Since mine isn't a white wall (more of a light beige) my settings will be a little funky until I get a screen. I rent, as well, so I plan on getting a cheaper screen until we move into a house later. I always try to see if Craigslist has something for sale but I just might look at a $500 screen as a temporary fix. Thx again.


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> Very much appreciated. Yes - I know about the imperfections and expect them. Since mine isn't a white wall (more of a light beige) my settings will be a little funky until I get a screen. I rent, as well, so I plan on getting a cheaper screen until we move into a house later. I always try to see if Craigslist has something for sale but I just might look at a $500 screen as a temporary fix. Thx again.


My PET Crystal screen wasn't very expensive, so something like that should be a good low-budget option.


----------



## m0j0

Here are some pics from my T1 with the Nvidia Shield


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> My PET Crystal screen wasn't very expensive, so something like that should be a good low-budget option.


If it's around $500 then great. But I'm also concerned about our cats getting close to it. In this apartment, it's smaller than we're used to so the cabinet where the T1 will sit is much lower. I plan on a full setup with a larger cabinet that can house my large central speaker when we move. And, who knows, maybe I'll be able to get a regular PJ (scope screen - large) and move the T1 to the bedroom. With that in mind - - I'm going to see how the picture looks on the wall. If it's remotely acceptable, I might wait until we move or find a real low cost one on Craigslist. 

Nice pics with the Nvidia Shield Pro, by the way. Is your HD Fury in the loop?


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> Yes, it is a new setting in version 9.1. There is now a slider to disable HDR.
> 
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/ShieldAndroidTV/comments/voap8z


m0j0, do you know what is happening when a box converts HDR to SDR? When I set my Ugoos to that mode and play that Costa Rica Youtube HDR video, I notice a flatter picture. I have to look really hard to see it, though. Do you think there is some processing going on, or are they simply sending an alternate portion of the existing digital image?


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> If it's around $500 then great. But I'm also concerned about our cats getting close to it. In this apartment, it's smaller than we're used to so the cabinet where the T1 will sit is much lower. I plan on a full setup with a larger cabinet that can house my large central speaker when we move. And, who knows, maybe I'll be able to get a regular PJ (scope screen - large) and move the T1 to the bedroom. With that in mind - - I'm going to see how the picture looks on the wall. If it's remotely acceptable, I might wait until we move or find a real low cost one on Craigslist.
> 
> Nice pics with the Nvidia Shield Pro, by the way. Is your HD Fury in the loop?


700 or less, depending on whether you go with PET Crystal or PET Grid and which brand you select.


----------



## m0j0

donw said:


> m0j0, do you know what is happening when a box converts HDR to SDR? When I set my Ugoos to that mode and play that Costa Rica Youtube HDR video, I notice a flatter picture. I have to look really hard to see it, though. Do you think there is some processing going on, or are they simply sending an alternate portion of the existing digital image?


I'm not an expert but I expect that there is some form of mapping occurring to convert the color space. I know in Netflix is just shows as Ultra HD 4k so it is being told to send an SDR signal and not HDR or DV.


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> If it's around $500 then great. But I'm also concerned about our cats getting close to it. In this apartment, it's smaller than we're used to so the cabinet where the T1 will sit is much lower. I plan on a full setup with a larger cabinet that can house my large central speaker when we move. And, who knows, maybe I'll be able to get a regular PJ (scope screen - large) and move the T1 to the bedroom. With that in mind - - I'm going to see how the picture looks on the wall. If it's remotely acceptable, I might wait until we move or find a real low cost one on Craigslist.
> 
> Nice pics with the Nvidia Shield Pro, by the way. Is your HD Fury in the loop?


The HDFury is in the loop but not taking any action on the picture as I'm not sending any HDR or DV signal. Only then would the HDFury send a custom HDR signal with LLDV.


----------



## JackB

m0j0 said:


> Yes, it is a new setting in version 9.1. There is now a slider to disable HDR.
> 
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/ShieldAndroidTV/comments/voap8z


So the Shield has multiple settings under Resolution. One is 4K HDR 60 Hz. A second one is 4K 60Hz. That is the one that strips HDR for non-HDR projectors. Then why has this disable HDR slider been added in 9.1? If they are the same then the only use would seem to be if there was a button switch that could turn the slider on and off at your request. Otherwise, why add it when it's already there? Is there other data involved that is affected by one method but not the other?


----------



## m0j0

JackB said:


> So the Shield has multiple settings under Resolution. One is 4K HDR 60 Hz. A second one is 4K 60Hz. That is the one that strips HDR for non-HDR projectors. Then why has this disable HDR slider been added in 9.1? If they are the same then the only use would seem to be if there was a button switch that could turn the slider on and off at your request. Otherwise, why add it when it's already there? Is there other data involved that is affected by one method but not the other?


A fair question. I think even if you selected 4K 60Hz in the past, if it received an HDR signal, it would switch. Can't remember for sure, but I believe that is why there was a request to have an option to disable HDR/DV, so it would keep the Shield from switching.


----------



## JackB

m0j0 said:


> A fair question. I think even if you selected 4K 60Hz in the past, if it received an HDR signal, it would switch. Can't remember for sure, but I believe that is why there was a request to have an option to disable HDR/DV, so it would keep the Shield from switching.


My memory is a little fuzzy but I believe that when I had the Shield set to 4K 60 HZ HDR the colors would be washed out on HDR content; and maybe even SDR material. I don't remember. Switching to 4K 60 Hz solved the problem. I could use a button switch because I have a JVC RS540 that likes HDR mixed with a number of 1080P dlp projectors that I use the most. Going into the Shield menu and changing back and forth is a pain.


----------



## ProFragger

m0j0 said:


> Perhaps they have a more "purist" mentality, so in their minds if their box supports SD, HDR and DV, why would you want it to force everything to LLDV, just let it play whichever native mode/format is being presented. That is their perspective, not taking into account the display's capabilities or needs.


True man, but, like all these other high quality box give you the option. If Shield is the king of all streaming, they claim to be... Why not at least entertain the option, ya know? 😊


----------



## ProFragger

Ricoflashback said:


> If it's around $500 then great. But I'm also concerned about our cats getting close to it. In this apartment, it's smaller than we're used to so the cabinet where the T1 will sit is much lower. I plan on a full setup with a larger cabinet that can house my large central speaker when we move. And, who knows, maybe I'll be able to get a regular PJ (scope screen - large) and move the T1 to the bedroom. With that in mind - - I'm going to see how the picture looks on the wall. If it's remotely acceptable, I might wait until we move or find a real low cost one on Craigslist.
> 
> Nice pics with the Nvidia Shield Pro, by the way. Is your HD Fury in the loop?


Hey man... I'll keep you posted. The Mrs. is not settled on my purchase of the 120" over the 100" we had 😅. If I loss the battle, I'll likely be selling for around that price + whatever shipping you'd prefer. It's a PET Crystal screen. 

I'll keep you in mind if you're interested? 😊


----------



## donw

Do any of you use adaptive frame rate? My Ugoos Android box can do this, and I've started using it. I think it looks good for movies especially. There is less "soap opera effect" than when I had it set for 60 Hz. The only thing I notice is that scrolling credits are a little jerky.


----------



## rjyap

donw said:


> Do any of you use adaptive frame rate? My Ugoos Android box can do this, and I've started using it. I think it looks good for movies especially. There is less "soap opera effect" than when I had it set for 60 Hz. The only thing I notice is that scrolling credits are a little jerky.


I'm using madVR smooth motion. Force 23p movie to 59p output with smooth motion turn on. No soap opera effect and motion is very good on panning scene. Can't stand Fengmi T1 MEMC even at lowest settings.


----------



## Ricoflashback

ProFragger said:


> Hey man... I'll keep you posted. The Mrs. is not settled on my purchase of the 120" over the 100" we had 😅. If I loss the battle, I'll likely be selling for around that price + whatever shipping you'd prefer. It's a PET Crystal screen.
> 
> I'll keep you in mind if you're interested? 😊


Sure - once I get the projector up, I‘ll have a better idea on the screen size that fits our living room.


----------



## antjes

I was doing a lot of tests today since I got a Zidoo Z9x.
There is a problem with Zidoo and I dont really know if I´m doing something wrong or it is a Zidoo issue.
I tried to play Aquaman in Dolby Vision, TV Led, so that the T1 manage the DV. I selected in Zidoo menu:

HDR auto
Dolby Vision TV LED

Then when I play Aquaman I get in Zidoo info " RGB 8 bits DV (TV LED), but mapping is not good. When I play Aquaman in Oppo Clone (M9201) in TV LED I get good mapping, and I can see in info " Dolby Vision 12 bits".
See next 2 pictures, first for OPPO, second for Zidoo. Please forget colors and defects, the pictures are not what I can see with my eyes, just for having an idea, but Oppo one is really good in reality.
What I´m doing wrong?. In my understanding, if I send TV LED in both player the result should be very similar right?
Some of you owning Zidoo can check if in that scene with DV TV LED you get a good mapping?
Thanks in advance.


----------



## m0j0

antjes said:


> I was doing a lot of tests today since I got a Zidoo Z9x.
> There is a problem with Zidoo and I dont really know if I´m doing something wrong or it is a Zidoo issue.
> I tried to play Aquaman in Dolby Vision, TV Led, so that the T1 manage the DV. I selected in Zidoo menu:
> 
> HDR auto
> Dolby Vision TV LED
> 
> Then when I play Aquaman I get in Zidoo info " RGB 8 bits DV (TV LED), but mapping is not good. When I play Aquaman in Oppo Clone (M9201) in TV LED I get good mapping, and I can see in info " Dolby Vision 12 bits".
> See next 2 pictures, first for OPPO, second for Zidoo. Please forget colors and defects, the pictures are not what I can see with my eyes, just for having an idea, but Oppo one is really good in reality.
> What I´m doing wrong?. In my understanding, if I send TV LED in both player the result should be very similar right?
> Some of you owning Zidoo can check if in that scene with DV TV LED you get a good mapping?
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> View attachment 3304342
> View attachment 3304343


Did you try custom EDID with option 1 selected? Might be worth a try.


----------



## antjes

m0j0 said:


> Did you try custom EDID with option 1 selected? Might be worth a try.


Thanks m0j0 but I tried all EDIDs, 3 plus all EDIDs I found in Zidoo forum, so I have about 16 EDIDs but no good mapping. The weird thing here is if T1 will mange the dynamic data why I dont get similar picture than Oppo?
In a couple of times I got a good mapping, but there is no explanaition since after stop movie then I couldnt get it again...


----------



## m0j0

antjes said:


> Thanks m0j0 but I tried all EDIDs, 3 plus all EDIDs I found in Zidoo forum, so I have about 16 EDIDs but no good mapping. The weird thing here is if T1 will mange the dynamic data why I dont get similar picture than Oppo?
> In a couple of times I got a good mapping, but there is no explanaition since after stop movie then I couldnt get it again...


With the custom edid 1 did you have it set to player led DV? I would try that as well if you haven't. And maybe go from auto to 12 bit lldv setting if you can, or if not, then the setting that uses the vs10 engine for sdr, hdr, dv.


----------



## JereyWolf

rjyap said:


> I'm using madVR smooth motion. Force 23p movie to 59p output with smooth motion turn on. No soap opera effect and motion is very good on panning scene. Can't stand Fengmi T1 MEMC even at lowest settings.


Do you use a 2160p59 display mode then? And leave smooth motion/frame rate conversion set to always on?

I agree that MEMC on the lowest setting is unusable.


----------



## rjyap

JereyWolf said:


> Do you use a 2160p59 display mode then? And leave smooth motion/frame rate conversion set to always on?
> 
> I agree that MEMC on the lowest setting is unusable.


Yes. That’s correct.


----------



## JackB

m0j0 said:


> A fair question. I think even if you selected 4K 60Hz in the past, if it received an HDR signal, it would switch. Can't remember for sure, but I believe that is why there was a request to have an option to disable HDR/DV, so it would keep the Shield from switching.


It did not switch automatically at 4K 60Hz otherwise it would have been unwatchable.


----------



## JereyWolf

rjyap said:


> Yes. That’s correct.


Do you have any other specific options on? I'm trying to make it work now but I keep crashing.


----------



## rjyap

antjes said:


> I was doing a lot of tests today since I got a Zidoo Z9x.
> There is a problem with Zidoo and I dont really know if I´m doing something wrong or it is a Zidoo issue.
> I tried to play Aquaman in Dolby Vision, TV Led, so that the T1 manage the DV. I selected in Zidoo menu:
> 
> HDR auto
> Dolby Vision TV LED
> 
> Then when I play Aquaman I get in Zidoo info " RGB 8 bits DV (TV LED), but mapping is not good. When I play Aquaman in Oppo Clone (M9201) in TV LED I get good mapping, and I can see in info " Dolby Vision 12 bits".
> See next 2 pictures, first for OPPO, second for Zidoo. Please forget colors and defects, the pictures are not what I can see with my eyes, just for having an idea, but Oppo one is really good in reality.
> What I´m doing
> wrong?. In my understanding, if I send TV LED in both player the result should be very similar right?
> Some of you owning Zidoo can check if in that scene with DV TV LED you get a good mapping?
> Thanks in advance.


just for your comparison this is render by MadVR

color actually is more bluish..


----------



## ProFragger

Ricoflashback said:


> Sure - once I get the projector up, I‘ll have a better idea on the screen size that fits our living room.


You may be in luck, it's a losing battle for me LOL!


----------



## Ricoflashback

ProFragger said:


> You may be in luck, it's a losing battle for me LOL!


Meaning you're moving to the 120" screen? P.S. - PM me and open a conversation so we won't tie up the thread.


----------



## m0j0

Anyone heard any updates on the Chinese T1 beta firmware? I signed up for it and they asked me some questions about what I'm experiencing with regard to the hdmi issues, but haven't seen or heard any updates after that email exchange.


----------



## tnaik4

Is there some settings we can disable in projectivy while using custom mode to reduce input lag ?
I do game a lot but i like custom mode picture quality more than game mode, and we can't change anything in game mode.


----------



## JereyWolf

tnaik4 said:


> Is there some settings we can disable in projectivy while using custom mode to reduce input lag ?
> I do game a lot but i like custom mode picture quality more than game mode, and we can't change anything in game mode.


I think the best option is to use projectivy to enable the custom color temp with game mode.... unfortunately it seems like dynamic contrast is always on... but at least it's better that the overly blue/ cool stock game mode from FengOS.

I also wish I could just use my custom preset and have a switch to enable "low input lag mode".


----------



## tnaik4

JereyWolf said:


> I think the best option is to use projectivy to enable the custom color temp with game mode.... unfortunately it seems like dynamic contrast is always on... but at least it's better that the overly blue/ cool stock game mode from FengOS.
> 
> I also wish I could just use my custom preset and have a switch to enable "low input lag mode".


Yeah i m not sure why low input lag wasnt a separate option that could be toggle on in any mode.
Software wise the T1 needs a lot of work.


----------



## Dave Harper

tnaik4 said:


> Software wise the T1 needs a lot of work.


That’s why they made the International ForMovie Theater version!


----------



## Odysea

Dave Harper said:


> That’s why they made the International ForMovie Theater version!


Does that mean the international version has more options for limiting input lag? Like a setting similar to the AWOL?


----------



## tnaik4

Dave Harper said:


> That’s why they made the International ForMovie Theater version!


Even the theatre version still lacking software wise, if they add basic Cms option thats not much to write home about.
Why not give total freedom to the users to customize whatever they want instead of locking options.
How about a laser slider instead of 4 settings that clearly change more than just the light output, what about low lag option thats not locked under game mode only, i can think of plenty others.
T1 is doing many things great but the software is like 20 years old, i have 10 years old projectors that has more/way better options.


----------



## m0j0

JereyWolf said:


> I think the best option is to use projectivy to enable the custom color temp with game mode.... unfortunately it seems like dynamic contrast is always on... but at least it's better that the overly blue/ cool stock game mode from FengOS.
> 
> I also wish I could just use my custom preset and have a switch to enable "low input lag mode".


This might work with an HDFury Vrroom. It enables support for ALLM & VRR.


----------



## m0j0

Some pics from Formula 1 Drive to Survive Season 4 Episode 1


----------



## Grazed

JereyWolf said:


> I think the best option is to use projectivy to enable the custom color temp with game mode.... unfortunately it seems like dynamic contrast is always on... but at least it's better that the overly blue/ cool stock game mode from FengOS.


Are you saying game mode has dynamic contrast on by default? or when you enable the projectivy custom color temp that causes the dynamic contrast to be always on in game mode?


----------



## JereyWolf

m0j0 said:


> This might work with an HDFury Vrroom. It enables support for ALLM & VRR.


I have everything enabled in my signal chain to support this but it doesn't kick into and low latency mode unfortunately.


----------



## JereyWolf

Grazed said:


> Are you saying game mode has dynamic contrast on by default? or when you enable the projectivy custom color temp that causes the dynamic contrast to be always on in game mode?


I believe that it's always on by default, just as it is with the other stock picture modes.


----------



## Grazed

JereyWolf said:


> I believe that it's always on by default, just as it is with the other stock picture modes.


Interesting, for me when I test scenes that I know have crushed blacks when dynamic contrast is on, it is not crushed while in game mode which confirms it isn’t enabled.


----------



## JereyWolf

Grazed said:


> Interesting, for me when I test scenes that I know have crushed blacks when dynamic contrast is on, it is not crushed while in game mode which confirms it isn’t enabled.


That is interesting, and you may be right. I haven't done extensive testing to verify it...only comparing side by side to my custom preset and to me it appeared to be on. I wish there was a way to confirm via on screen display.
I could do some testing to see how the gamma curve is effected by game mode....because if it's anything like other projectors I've used, the bottom end may be a bit lifted, hence leading to not crushing shadow details.

And a side point...I know for sure that dynamic contrast can cause elevated blacks and a shifted gamma in dark scenes...not necessarily lead to crushing shadow detail but making it more visible, usually in an adverse way. This is very easy to see in the sand worm encounter scene at the end of Dune.


----------



## Yummytm1

m0j0 said:


> Some pics from Formula 1 Drive to Survive Season 4 Episode 1


Hello m0j0 when you post pictures can you tell with one is SDR or HDR ?


----------



## Ricoflashback

Yummytm1 said:


> Hello m0j0 when you post pictures can you tell with one is SDR or HDR ?


His pics are all in "MDR," which stands for "Mojo Dynamic Range" that vary from week to week (day to day) based on high level, sophisticated algorithms that he programs daily. Kind of like the Arby's secret sauce. You'll never find the recipe.


----------



## m0j0

Yummytm1 said:


> Hello m0j0 when you post pictures can you tell with one is SDR or HDR ?


Any pictures I post from Netflix or Youtube are SDR. Any pictures I post of a movie from my Zidoo Z9X is LLDV.


----------



## badboris

m0j0 said:


> Any pictures I post from Netflix or Youtube are SDR. Any pictures I post of a movie from my Zidoo Z9X is LLDV.


Mojo, apologies if answered before, but what is your opinion on the z9x as a movie player for files from a home NAS? Any glitches or short comings? And do you have experience with Apple TV 4K and nvidia shield pro for comparison? …I know the latter won’t do LDDV from HDR10 but ATV won’t do TrueHD atmos.

plan on getting fengmi theater unit with an HD Fury and want the best box for movie viewing off my NAS MKV library.

thanks and thanks for all the updates/settings info!


----------



## gen_x

tnaik4 said:


> Since i have the projector open already, i ve been messing around with things to improve focus other than the focus ring, and ive made big improvements.
> Check this out, keep in mind this is a unit that had significant out of focus upper side at this size ( around 130inch ) , and now its super clean accross the whole screen.


Looks good. Can you share what adjustments you made to improve focus? Also what type of screen is that?

Thanks


----------



## m0j0

badboris said:


> Mojo, apologies if answered before, but what is your opinion on the z9x as a movie player for files from a home NAS? Any glitches or short comings? And do you have experience with Apple TV 4K and nvidia shield pro for comparison? …I know the latter won’t do LDDV from HDR10 but ATV won’t do TrueHD atmos.
> 
> plan on getting fengmi theater unit with an HD Fury and want the best box for movie viewing off my NAS MKV library.
> 
> thanks and thanks for all the updates/settings info!


I think the Zidoo Z9X is an excellent media player for playing local MKV files from a NAS or USB connected drive and I've been very impressed with the VS10 engine and prefer the Z9X over my previous configuration with Plex (which I used with a range of devices, including Apple TV 4k, Nvidia Shield Pro and Roku Ultra). They initially had some issues when building out the movie library (scanning all your media and adding them to your media library), but seemed to have worked all those issues out with recent beta builds (make sure to get the latest beta version installed before scanning your files). Only other limitation is streaming, so as long as you just plan to use it for playing local media files, you are good to go.


----------



## tnaik4

gen_x said:


> Looks good. Can you share what adjustments you made to improve focus? Also what type of screen is that?
> 
> Thanks


Send me a dm if u decide to do it and ill gladly help.
My screen is regular white 1.1 gain.


----------



## MRJAZZZ

How effective is the Auto Focus and Auto KEYSTONE SOFTWARE on the T1, also are there any noticeable DLP Rainbows or Chromatic aberrations due to misalignment of the 3 color lasers?
I realize there's no DLP Color wheel due to the 3 laser design , so I would imagine the DLP Rainbows if any, would be minimal. Finally does the Chinese version have English print menu's?
Sorry for all the questions.....


----------



## m0j0

A few pics from Aquaman playing via disc on my Sony UBP-X700, using the HDFury Vrroom with a setting of 300 nits on the DV tab for tone mapping of the picture on the T1.

T1 settings for this movie:

Brightness Mode: view Mode
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 72
Saturation: 45
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 50
Color: Custom
Red: 901
Green: 944
Blue: 883


----------



## m0j0

MRJAZZZ said:


> How effective is the Auto Focus and Auto KEYSTONE SOFTWARE on the T1, also are there any noticeable DLP Rainbows or Chromatic aberrations due to misalignment of the 3 color lasers?
> I realize there's no DLP Color wheel due to the 3 laser design , so I would imagine the DLP Rainbows if any, would be minimal. Finally does the Chinese version have English print menu's?
> Sorry for all the questions.....


I use the manual focus and also manual keystone adjustments to get the picture dialed in well on my screen. Both are easy to adjust. I don’t notice any rainbows nor any chromatic aberratiions. The Chinese T1 can be updated by the seller to include English menus.


----------



## tnaik4

m0j0 said:


> I use the manual focus and also manual keystone adjustments to get the picture dialed in well on my screen. Both are easy to adjust. I don’t notice any rainbows nor any chromatic aberratiions. The Chinese T1 can be updated by the seller to include English menus.


Whats ur firmware version, I don't think mine has the latest version but in the os auto update detect it as latest.


----------



## stfidel

LSP9T vs Fengmit T1 formovie global version?


----------



## hakke69

Hello! 
Does the chinese t1 with new Firmware has options like CMS, lower input lag,etc. like a global ver.?


----------



## antjes

hakke69 said:


> Hello!
> Does the chinese t1 with new Firmware has options like CMS, lower input lag,etc. like a global ver.?


No

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## m0j0

hakke69 said:


> Hello!
> Does the chinese t1 with new Firmware has options like CMS, lower input lag,etc. like a global ver.?


No CMS on the Chinese T1. The input lag is fairly low though, below 40ms if I recall.


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> I use the manual focus and also manual keystone adjustments to get the picture dialed in well on my screen. Both are easy to adjust. I don’t notice any rainbows nor any chromatic aberratiions. The Chinese T1 can be updated by the seller to include English menus.


By manual focus do you mean just moving the projector back to front? There isn't any focus ring, correct?


----------



## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> By manual focus do you mean just moving the projector back to front? There isn't any focus ring, correct?


I meant using the focus menu with the buttons on the remote to adjust focus. There is also the ability to run through some sort of auto focus routine using ProjectIvy.


----------



## patels922

Just got my T1 Global from ProjectorScreen.

Can anyone recommend a "flush" ceiling mount for this projector (best clearance I've seen is 3")? I've heard some folks have used hat channel tracks to ceiling mount (this is doable but adjustments are tedious and a PITA)


----------



## m0j0

A few pics


----------



## tnaik4

Doing a 3dlut for the T1 always gives a bad result, i think ALPD are doing something under the hood that causes that. 
My M150 which does also around 89% bt2020 gives reference 3dlut result, would be interesting to test the T1 next to a non ALPD triple laser for colors.

Although colors looks amazing.


----------



## m0j0

tnaik4 said:


> Doing a 3dlut for the T1 always gives a bad result, i think ALPD are doing something under the hood that causes that.
> My M150 which does also around 89% bt2020 gives reference 3dlut result, would be interesting to test the T1 next to a non ALPD triple laser for colors.
> 
> Although colors looks amazing.


What is an M150?


----------



## tnaik4

m0j0 said:


> What is an M150?


Sim2 M150, its one of the best DLPs ever created, its an LED light source, 1080p, but not too bright, rated at 1000 lumens and around 650 calibrated.


----------



## m0j0

tnaik4 said:


> Sim2 M150, its one of the best DLPs ever created, its an LED light source, 1080p, but not too bright, rated at 1000 lumens and around 650 calibrated.


I see, very nice. Looks like it costs a pretty penny too.


----------



## tnaik4

m0j0 said:


> I see, very nice. Looks like it costs a pretty penny too.


Yeah back then it was in the 30k range, now its a lot cheaper of course.


----------



## DunMunro

A short video review:


----------



## ProjectionHead

stfidel said:


> LSP9T vs Fengmit T1 formovie global version?


We’ll be posting a shootout between those two soon. At over half the cost (MSRP), unless you like to spend money and enjoy laser speckle, the Theater (T1 Global) may be the better choice


----------



## Ricoflashback

tnaik4 said:


> Sim2 M150, its one of the best DLPs ever created, its an LED light source, 1080p, but not too bright, rated at 1000 lumens and around 650 calibrated.


650 lumens? That better be a blacker than black, Velvet Elvis bat cave with all black furniture. A deep bunker would work best with that PJ.


----------



## JereyWolf

JereyWolf said:


> That is interesting, and you may be right. I haven't done extensive testing to verify it...only comparing side by side to my custom preset and to me it appeared to be on. I wish there was a way to confirm via on screen display.
> I could do some testing to see how the gamma curve is effected by game mode....because if it's anything like other projectors I've used, the bottom end may be a bit lifted, hence leading to not crushing shadow details.
> 
> And a side point...I know for sure that dynamic contrast can cause elevated blacks and a shifted gamma in dark scenes...not necessarily lead to crushing shadow detail but making it more visible, usually in an adverse way. This is very easy to see in the sand worm encounter scene at the end of Dune.


@Grazed
I took some time to get measurements of a few various conditions.
Here you can see how dynamic contrast essentially has no effect on gamma when measuring gray patterns in custom mode.
You can also see the game mode gamma curve roughly averages 1.7.
And also Game mode through Projectivy using custom white balance for better color accuracy, but the gamma is still way off.

Photos of my screen and settings are just for reference.....sorry my screenshot resolution is so bad.
The .PDF at the bottom is a higher resolution copy of the measurement screenshots.


----------



## rjyap

JereyWolf said:


> @Grazed
> I took some time to get measurements of a few various conditions.
> Here you can see how dynamic contrast essentially has no effect on gamma when measuring gray patterns in custom mode.
> You can also see the game mode gamma curve roughly averages 1.7.
> And also Game mode through Projectivy using custom white balance for better color accuracy, but the gamma is still way off.
> 
> Photos of my screen and settings are just for reference.....sorry my screenshot resolution is so bad.
> The .PDF at the bottom is a higher resolution copy of the measurement screenshots.
> View attachment 3307298
> View attachment 3307299
> View attachment 3307300
> View attachment 3307301
> 
> View attachment 3307302
> 
> View attachment 3307303
> 
> View attachment 3307304


I try out Game mode in Projectivity but I can't get the WB settings to stick. I select Game mode in FengOS first, then launch projectivity. In projectivity, I launch Mediatek advanced menu to adjust the WB, by selecting source as HDMI 3 (my current PC input), then select Color temp warm and adjust the white balance. During adjustment, I can see the white background can be adjust to more yellowish white but after adjustment, I click on HDMI 3 input in projectivity but it switch back to the FengOS settings which is very bluish white.

Or should I select Custom mode under FengOS, then in Projectivity --> Mediatek menu to change to HDMI 3, Picture Mode change to game and custom WB for the settings to take effect?


----------



## zaselim

hakke69 said:


> Hello!
> Does the chinese t1 with new Firmware has options like CMS, lower input lag,etc. like a global ver.?


Low input lag only on game mode around 36ms, on some games it was around 32.


----------



## tnaik4

Ricoflashback said:


> 650 lumens? That better be a blacker than black, Velvet Elvis bat cave with all black furniture. A deep bunker would work best with that PJ.


That projector was meant for a 100inch screen max, it gets 90nits calibrated on that screen size which is 27fl and way more than enough for that screen size.

But yeah if u want 120-130inch it would be dimm.


----------



## shanedowley

ProjectionHead said:


> We’ll be posting a shootout between those two soon. At over half the cost (MSRP), unless you like to spend money and enjoy laser speckle, the Theater (T1 Global) may be the better choice


Lol! Very diplomatic! In other words, no contest.


----------



## JereyWolf

rjyap said:


> Or should I select Custom mode under FengOS, then in Projectivity --> Mediatek menu to change to HDMI 3, Picture Mode change to game and custom WB for the settings to take effect?


Yes, essentially do that but it's not necessary to first select custom in FengOS.
Just make sure game mode is selected in both places, under "factory mode"/white balance adjust and also under picture mode in projectivy/mediatek menu.
I had a bit of trouble getting it to stick too, but cycling back and forth a few times made it work....not ideal but better than having no adjustments through FengOS.


----------



## JereyWolf

I only took four photos last night after taking measurements. These are just to capture the differences of dynamic contrast in different ADL scenes. I'm kind of surprised by how subtle the differences are. 
These are far from giving a total representation of dynamic contrast, but I thought they were interesting.


----------



## ProjectionHead

shanedowley said:


> Lol! Very diplomatic! In other words, no contest.


Not necessarily… Samsung has shorter throw distance, larger DLP chip, better lens and is white (if you prefer that).
Do all of those benefits add up in value to the extra money? Not for most, but yes for some


----------



## ProjectionHead

patels922 said:


> Just got my T1 Global from ProjectorScreen.
> 
> Can anyone recommend a "flush" ceiling mount for this projector (best clearance I've seen is 3")? I've heard some folks have used hat channel tracks to ceiling mount (this is doable but adjustments are tedious and a PITA)
> 
> View attachment 3307019


I wish I had some advice to offer on the mounting, but am very interested to hear how you end up pulling it off


----------



## shanedowley

ProjectionHead said:


> Not necessarily… Samsung has shorter throw distance, larger DLP chip, better lens and is white (if you prefer that).
> Do all of those benefits add up in value to the extra money? Not for most, but yes for some


What I’d be more interested in seeing is a side by side comparison between the T1 international and JVC NZ8. Entirely different devices and price ranges I know. And long throw v UST. But if the JVC is better, how much better? And would that amount of better justify the cost difference?


----------



## Ricoflashback

shanedowley said:


> What I’d be more interested in seeing is a side by side comparison between the T1 international and JVC NZ8. Entirely different devices and price ranges I know. And long throw v UST. But if the JVC is better, how much better? And would that amount of better justify the cost difference?


Gee - this is pretty easy math. At $16K and more than 5X the cost of the International T1, you’d be hard pressed to say anything is 5X greater than the other. That being said - smoke em if you got ‘em. Namely, if you have the money and it’s worth it to you - go for it.


----------



## shanedowley

Ricoflashback said:


> Gee - this is pretty easy math. At $16K and more than 5X the cost of the International T1, you’d be hard pressed to say anything is 5X greater than the other. That being said - smoke em if you got ‘em. Namely, if you have the money and it’s worth it to you - go for it.


I know the choice is obvious comparing price alone. What I’m interested in is a subjective comparison side-by-side.


----------



## ProFragger

m0j0 said:


> A few pics


Hey m0j0, would you say the 300 nits have been the longest you've stayed at a setting 😊?


----------



## Ricoflashback

shanedowley said:


> I know the choice is obvious comparing price alone. What I’m interested in is a subjective comparison side-by-side.


In a light filled, multipurpose room, the T1 with a UST ALR screen would look far better than the JVC. In a dedicated theater room - it’s the JVC all the way. You really can’t compare them side by side unless you define the viewing environment, IMHO.


----------



## rooterha

Ive been out of town. Has the beta firmware been pushed to anyone yet?


----------



## m0j0

ProFragger said:


> Hey m0j0, would you say the 300 nits have been the longest you've stayed at a setting 😊?


Yes, I think so. However, recently, I switched up the Z9X to use a custom 600MHz REC709 SDR EDID and liked it a lot, so probably going to run with that for awhile and see how I like it in comparison to the 300 nits DV setup.

I updated my settings on page 305:








Formovie Fengmi T1


I mean, these defects occur a lot then ! Yeah, if it is truly a defect on many of our units. I still feel it's a minor enough problem that it would not be worth shipping to China for service for me.




www.avsforum.com


----------



## spocky12

For those juggling between "internal tv view" and stock one in Projectivy, the latest release adds both shortcuts to the contextual menu, for a faster selection.
I also added a partial engineering menu translation (useful for autofocus) and direct access to the mediatek menu on the calibration patterns screen.
Full changelog on the XDA thread.


----------



## zoomx2

rooterha said:


> Ive been out of town. Has the beta firmware been pushed to anyone yet?


Not yet


----------



## spocky12

rooterha said:


> Ive been out of town. Has the beta firmware been pushed to anyone yet?


Fwiw, no new beta firmware on their side since 2 weeks. Latest one is 2.1.2.2522.
Is it a good sign (this beta is tested internally before being considered "stable" for end users) or not (they have a hard time fixing something which explains no new update), I don't know.

As long as we don't have any full firmware available, I won't try to install it (and won't give any download link) because some betas are dead-ends that don't have any update, so people flashing it might get stuck forever.


----------



## shanedowley

spocky12 said:


> Fwiw, no new beta firmware on their side since 2 weeks. Latest one is 2.1.2.2522.
> Is it a good sign (this beta is tested internally before being considered "stable" for end users) or not (they have a hard time fixing something which explains no new update), I don't know.
> 
> As long as we don't have any full firmware available, I won't try to install it (and won't give any download link) because some betas are dead-ends that don't have any update, so people flashing it might get stuck forever.


While on the subject of firmware, are the firmware release numbers between the Chinese and Global versions of the T1 the same? So for instance if the they are and the HDMI handshake issues still exists in the Chinese version, it will also in the Global version of the T1?


----------



## antjes

spocky12 said:


> Fwiw, no new beta firmware on their side since 2 weeks. Latest one is 2.1.2.2522.
> Is it a good sign (this beta is tested internally before being considered "stable" for end users) or not (they have a hard time fixing something which explains no new update), I don't know.
> 
> As long as we don't have any full firmware available, I won't try to install it (and won't give any download link) because some betas are dead-ends that don't have any update, so people flashing it might get stuck forever.


Thanks @spocky12 for that info and the projectivity update.
I asked you before but you didn’t see my question, how you know about the firmware updates or their content, is there any space in which is possible to check in what Fengmi is working on? They register the firmwares or something similar?


----------



## antjes

I bought yesterday a Google Chromecast (last versión with Google TV and remote).
I find this issue, I can't get 5.1 sound in Netflix neither Amazon Prime.
I tried all options in Chromecast. When I select in Netflix 5.1 audio I dont get any sound or Dolby Audio logo on screen. No matter if I choose in T1 Speaker or SPDIF.
I connect the Chromecast directly to T1.
I read a lot of people claiming about sound issues with Chromecast but the thing which makes me crazy is the fact that when I connect Chromecast to my cheap TCL Tv then everything is ok, Dolby Audio logo on screen and I can select on Netflix 5.1 audio, same with Prime Video, working perfect in Tv but not in the projector.
In the TV I have to wait few seconds to get DD 5.1 audio so It makes me think that might be related to handshake problem.
Please, any one can check with his Chromecast conected to T1 how It works with Dolby 5.1 on Netflix??
I'm in this post from the beginning and I remember poorly something related to this but I can't find It.
Thanks....

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## m0j0

Some pics from the T1 and the Zidoo Z9X with my recent REC709 custom EDID settings


----------



## okvcos

JereyWolf said:


> @Grazed
> I took some time to get measurements of a few various conditions.
> Here you can see how dynamic contrast essentially has no effect on gamma when measuring gray patterns in custom mode.
> You can also see the game mode gamma curve roughly averages 1.7.
> And also Game mode through Projectivy using custom white balance for better color accuracy, but the gamma is still way off.
> 
> Photos of my screen and settings are just for reference.....sorry my screenshot resolution is so bad.
> The .PDF at the bottom is a higher resolution copy of the measurement screenshots.
> View attachment 3307298
> View attachment 3307299
> View attachment 3307300
> View attachment 3307301
> 
> View attachment 3307302
> 
> View attachment 3307303
> 
> View attachment 3307304


View or office ? THX


----------



## okvcos

m0j0 said:


> Some pics from the T1 and the Zidoo Z9X with my recent REC709 custom EDID settings



"Zidoo Z9X with my recent REC709 custom EDID settings "

In the zidoo or in the Hdfury ?


----------



## m0j0

okvcos said:


> "Zidoo Z9X with my recent REC709 custom EDID settings "
> 
> In the zidoo or in the Hdfury ?


I chose to use the Custom EDID in the Zidoo directly on this occasion.


----------



## zoomx2

antjes said:


> I bought yesterday a Google Chromecast (last versión with Google TV and remote).
> I find this issue, I can't get 5.1 sound in Netflix neither Amazon Prime.
> I tried all options in Chromecast. When I select in Netflix 5.1 audio I dont get any sound or Dolby Audio logo on screen. No matter if I choose in T1 Speaker or SPDIF.
> I connect the Chromecast directly to T1.
> I read a lot of people claiming about sound issues with Chromecast but the thing which makes me crazy is the fact that when I connect Chromecast to my cheap TCL Tv then everything is ok, Dolby Audio logo on screen and I can select on Netflix 5.1 audio, same with Prime Video, working perfect in Tv but not in the projector.
> In the TV I have to wait few seconds to get DD 5.1 audio so It makes me think that might be related to handshake problem.
> Please, any one can check with his Chromecast conected to T1 how It works with Dolby 5.1 on Netflix??
> I'm in this post from the beginning and I remember poorly something related to this but I can't find It.
> Thanks....
> 
> Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


Can you try to connect Chromecast to Receiver and test? If connect to T1 directly you have to use the EARC HDMI port to Receiver/sound bar, main menu audio to EARC. I use Firestick connect to Receiver turn on HDMI Passthrough and CEC it works perfectly.


----------



## Dave Harper

m0j0 said:


> I use the manual focus and also manual keystone adjustments to get the picture dialed in well on my screen. Both are easy to adjust. I don’t notice any rainbows nor any chromatic aberratiions. The Chinese T1 can be updated by the seller to include English menus.


I would personally do everything in my power to avoid using ANY keystone adjustments whatsoever. It destroys resolution and can cause other anomalies in the image. 



m0j0 said:


> Some pics from the T1 and the Zidoo Z9X with my recent REC709 custom EDID settings


They do look good, but I have to question why you’d want to hamper one of the best qualities of this and other true RGB laser projectors, which is their amazing wide color gamut?

Sorry just realized both posts are from you. I promise I’m not picking on you haha! They’re just things that stuck out to me while reading the new posts.


----------



## m0j0

Dave Harper said:


> I would personally do everything in my power to avoid using ANY keystone adjustments whatsoever. It destroys resolution and can cause other anomalies in the image.
> 
> 
> 
> They do look good, but I have to question why you’d want to hamper one of the best qualities of this and other true RGB laser projectors, which is their amazing wide color gamut?
> 
> Sorry just realized both posts are from you. I promise I’m not picking on you haha! They’re just things that stuck out to me while reading the new posts.


Of course I agree with regard to avoiding keystone. I have it such that I only do minimal adjustments just to get the light off the border around the bottom of the screen, and a bit on each side as well. I don't notice any issues with the picture as a result.

With regard to the color gamut, my guiding premise is go with what looks good / whatever works. I initially was using the HDFury and sending everything as LLDV and was pretty happy with that. However, over time, I experimented with using SDR instead and actually felt the colors were more vibrant and natural overall, so started using that approach on my streaming devices. On the Z9X, I was still using LLDV until recently. I guess I just felt like there was this issue with lips being too vibrant and other oddities when using LLDV on the T1 and that detracted from my enjoyment somewhat. Changing over to the 600 MHz Rec709 EDID resolves that issue completely for me and gives me the best colors I have seen on the T1. Of course, the Z9X also uses the VS10 engine so that might be another factor, but overall, I haven't seen it look better as DV, HDR, etc. over the 709 setup, so I am just going with what looks best to me.


----------



## antjes

zoomx2 said:


> Can you try to connect Chromecast to Receiver and test? If connect to T1 directly you have to use the EARC HDMI port to Receiver/sound bar, main menu audio to EARC. I use Firestick connect to Receiver turn on HDMI Passthrough and CEC it works perfectly.


My receiver is too old.
The only thing that I want is to play DD+ coming from Netflix and then T1 passes DD to receiver via SPDIF.
I have Fire stick 4k and that is what stick does. Using Fire stick connected to T1 I have no problems in Netflix/Prime Video and receiver gets 5.1 audio on SPDIF.
Chromecast has a bad comunication with T1. on my TV, Chromecast is working fine ( is a very cheap TV)
Thanks anyway

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## antjes

m0j0 said:


> Of course I agree with regard to avoiding keystone. I have it such that I only do minimal adjustments just to get the light off the border around the bottom of the screen, and a bit on each side as well. I don't notice any issues with the picture as a result.
> 
> With regard to the color gamut, my guiding premise is go with what looks good / whatever works. I initially was using the HDFury and sending everything as LLDV and was pretty happy with that. However, over time, I experimented with using SDR instead and actually felt the colors were more vibrant and natural overall, so started using that approach on my streaming devices. On the Z9X, I was still using LLDV until recently. I guess I just felt like there was this issue with lips being too vibrant and other oddities when using LLDV on the T1 and that detracted from my enjoyment somewhat. Changing over to the 600 MHz Rec709 EDID resolves that issue completely for me and gives me the best colors I have seen on the T1. Of course, the Z9X also uses the VS10 engine so that might be another factor, but overall, I haven't seen it look better as DV, HDR, etc. over the 709 setup, so I am just going with what looks best to me.


m0j0 I understand you at all.
I was checking that EDID in my zidoo.
I spent few minutes but I will spend more time in the next days to have a deeper opinion.
It was surprising for me how good picture. My first impresion is that T1 configuration is easier, I mean, when I use DV (or LLDV) mapping is not 100% good, there is always several scenes too dark and I have to tweak, similar in HDR, so finally I dont find a perfect configuration for every source.
With this EDID in few minutes a got a very decent picture for different sources, and here is the secret sauce, because everything was passing through VS10 engine.
Even dynamic contrast was usefull but I have to check this last point deeper.
I could appreciate a flatter picture than HDR/DV in some scenes but I can live with that....
As I said, for a final conclusion I have to spend more time.
Thanks m0j0 for sharing...

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## JereyWolf

okvcos said:


> View or office ? THX


View always. Office disables custom white balance.


----------



## tnaik4

spocky12 said:


> For those juggling between "internal tv view" and stock one in Projectivy, the latest release adds both shortcuts to the contextual menu, for a faster selection.
> I also added a partial engineering menu translation (useful for autofocus) and direct access to the mediatek menu on the calibration patterns screen.
> Full changelog on the XDA thread.


I m encountering a bug with 4.0.1 , when i finish adjusting rgb gains/offfsets and close it to go back to desktop, it sometimes changed color temp drastically, and going back to readjust the rgb fixes it in just 1 click of change, sometimes it doesnt do that.


----------



## spocky12

antjes said:


> Thanks @spocky12 for that info and the projectivity update.
> I asked you before but you didn’t see my question, how you know about the firmware updates or their content, is there any space in which is possible to check in what Fengmi is working on? They register the firmwares or something similar?


I have a script that iterates based on the OTA url scheme.
Once I have an OTA, I can extract some of its files and diff them with previous versions. Unfortunately most of the update files are not full (only patches), so the diff won't work for them, limiting my ability to find the changes.




tnaik4 said:


> I m encountering a bug with 4.0.1 , when i finish adjusting rgb gains/offfsets and close it to go back to desktop, it sometimes changed color temp drastically, and going back to readjust the rgb fixes it in just 1 click of change, sometimes it doesnt do that.


That's probably a bug... But the app you're using to change gain/offsets is not from me but from mediatek, so I won't be able to fix it


----------



## m0j0

antjes said:


> m0j0 I understand you at all.
> I was checking that EDID in my zidoo.
> I spent few minutes but I will spend more time in the next days to have a deeper opinion.
> It was surprising for me how good picture. My first impresion is that T1 configuration is easier, I mean, when I use DV (or LLDV) mapping is not 100% good, there is always several scenes too dark and I have to tweak, similar in HDR, so finally I dont find a perfect configuration for every source.
> With this EDID in few minutes a got a very decent picture for different sources, and here is the secret sauce, because everything was passing through VS10 engine.
> Even dynamic contrast was usefull but I have to check this last point deeper.
> I could appreciate a flatter picture than HDR/DV in some scenes but I can live with that....
> As I said, for a final conclusion I have to spend more time.
> Thanks m0j0 for sharing...
> 
> Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


You may also want to check what you have set under color settings on the Z9X. I found setting 4K 50-60Hz and 4K 23-30Hz to PriorityYUV422 12BIT to give the best results so far.


----------



## Grazed

m0j0 said:


> I guess I just felt like there was this issue with lips being too vibrant and other oddities when using LLDV on the T1 and that detracted from my enjoyment somewhat. Changing over to the 600 MHz Rec709 EDID resolves that issue completely for me and gives me the best colors I have seen on the T1.


This issue has started to bother me as well when I was trying out SDR in comparison to DV/LLDV/HDR. Specifically the lips are more red than normal but that doesn't happen in SDR. I have been avoiding using my 4K blurays and just use the 1080p blurays now until I get something that can do HDR to SDR conversions correctly. I am assuming the international version doesn't have this issue with the CMS.


----------



## antjes

m0j0 said:


> You may also want to check what you have set under color settings on the Z9X. I found setting 4K 50-60Hz and 4K 23-30Hz to PriorityYUV422 12BBIT to give the best results so far.


I think I saw in my test output yuv444 12 bits itu709 VS10

And pop up logo
VS10 Dolby Vision

But now I'm thinking I used to have your yuv422 12 bit



Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## ProFragger

antjes said:


> I bought yesterday a Google Chromecast (last versión with Google TV and remote).
> I find this issue, I can't get 5.1 sound in Netflix neither Amazon Prime.
> I tried all options in Chromecast. When I select in Netflix 5.1 audio I dont get any sound or Dolby Audio logo on screen. No matter if I choose in T1 Speaker or SPDIF.
> I connect the Chromecast directly to T1.
> I read a lot of people claiming about sound issues with Chromecast but the thing which makes me crazy is the fact that when I connect Chromecast to my cheap TCL Tv then everything is ok, Dolby Audio logo on screen and I can select on Netflix 5.1 audio, same with Prime Video, working perfect in Tv but not in the projector.
> In the TV I have to wait few seconds to get DD 5.1 audio so It makes me think that might be related to handshake problem.
> Please, any one can check with his Chromecast conected to T1 how It works with Dolby 5.1 on Netflix??
> I'm in this post from the beginning and I remember poorly something related to this but I can't find It.
> Thanks....
> 
> Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


I had the same issue, and you're right, to an extent, this is a known issue. Where it gets tricky is, who is taking responsibility for it? I reported to Fengmi and their "support" gave me the canned response of, we'll look at it. Other people say it's a Chromecast issue. An alternative I could recommend for the Google Chromecast with Google TV is the TiVo Stream 4K. Nifty little Streamer where the Dolby Atmos audio does work and gives the Chromecast a run for its money. One downside of the TiVo is that it does not let you set individual control options for various devices like Chromecast does. Example, use my soundbar remote for volume, and CEC for power etc. The other TiVo difference I found was that if you turn Dolby Vision, HDR on or off, it will ask you to reboot, unlike the CCwGTV which will put those changes in place without a reboot. So you gotta pick your poison based on your needs.

I settled on (for a while) on the Chromecast, using the Audio Out from a Vertex2, which does successfully pump out Dolby Atmos and Surround using the Chromecast to stream.

I may be moving to the Shield Pro next, since @m0j0 and @JereyWolf have proven that SDR is strong on this projector + forcing to LLDV isn't a necessity, cause the HDR works fine, when you must need it.

Hope this helps.


----------



## Dave Harper

m0j0 said:


> Of course I agree with regard to avoiding keystone. I have it such that I only do minimal adjustments just to get the light off the border around the bottom of the screen, and a bit on each side as well. I don't notice any issues with the picture as a result.
> 
> With regard to the color gamut, my guiding premise is go with what looks good / whatever works. I initially was using the HDFury and sending everything as LLDV and was pretty happy with that. However, over time, I experimented with using SDR instead and actually felt the colors were more vibrant and natural overall, so started using that approach on my streaming devices. On the Z9X, I was still using LLDV until recently. I guess I just felt like there was this issue with lips being too vibrant and other oddities when using LLDV on the T1 and that detracted from my enjoyment somewhat. Changing over to the 600 MHz Rec709 EDID resolves that issue completely for me and gives me the best colors I have seen on the T1. Of course, the Z9X also uses the VS10 engine so that might be another factor, but overall, I haven't seen it look better as DV, HDR, etc. over the 709 setup, so I am just going with what looks best to me.





Grazed said:


> This issue has started to bother me as well when I was trying out SDR in comparison to DV/LLDV/HDR. Specifically the lips are more red than normal but that doesn't happen in SDR. I have been avoiding using my 4K blurays and just use the 1080p blurays now until I get something that can do HDR to SDR conversions correctly. I am assuming the international version doesn't have this issue with the CMS.


Have you run through a calibration using a meter and software? If reds are too saturated then something isn’t calibrated to the correct point. 

I noticed just about every single one of these Chinese based USTs have their colors and white balance way too cranked. 



JereyWolf said:


> View always. Office disables custom white balance.


This is one thing the International version fixes.


----------



## antjes

spocky12 said:


> I have a script that iterates based on the OTA url scheme.
> Once I have an OTA, I can extract some of its files and diff them with previous versions. Unfortunately most of the update files are not full (only patches), so the diff won't work for them, limiting my ability to find the changes.


Ok, its mamazing your job, I really apreciate your outstanding skills.
but you were talking about next beta firmware which is still in the oven (or this is what I understood according to your message), 
Then do you have access to the next beta?


Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Grazed

Dave Harper said:


> Have you run through a calibration using a meter and software? If reds are too saturated then something isn’t calibrated to the correct point.


I have not personally since I was not sure what meter to buy to get a good calibration on the T1. I kept seeing conflicting information on if certain meters can calibrate a tri laser unit accurately or not. Any recommendations?

Also I figured without a proper CMS I wouldn't be able to dial it in as best as it could unless projectivy opens that up as well?


----------



## antjes

ProFragger said:


> I had the same issue, and you're right, to an extent, this is a known issue. Where it gets tricky is, who is taking responsibility for it? I reported to Fengmi and their "support" gave me the canned response of, we'll look at it. Other people say it's a Chromecast issue. An alternative I could recommend for the Google Chromecast with Google TV is the TiVo Stream 4K. Nifty little Streamer where the Dolby Atmos audio does work and gives the Chromecast a run for its money. One downside of the TiVo is that it does not let you set individual control options for various devices like Chromecast does. Example, use my soundbar remote for volume, and CEC for power etc. The other TiVo difference I found was that if you turn Dolby Vision, HDR on or off, it will ask you to reboot, unlike the CCwGTV which will put those changes in place without a reboot. So you gotta pick your poison based on your needs.
> 
> I settled on (for a while) on the Chromecast, using the Audio Out from a Vertex2, which does successfully pump out Dolby Atmos and Surround using the Chromecast to stream.
> 
> I may be moving to the Shield Pro next, since @m0j0 and @JereyWolf have proven that SDR is strong on this projector + forcing to LLDV isn't a necessity, cause the HDR works fine, when you must need it.
> 
> Hope this helps.


Thanks for your explanation.
I will keep Chromecast for children TV and I will still be using Fire Stick 4k with T1

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## m0j0

Dave Harper said:


> Have you run through a calibration using a meter and software? If reds are too saturated then something isn’t calibrated to the correct point.
> 
> I noticed just about every single one of these Chinese based USTs have their colors and white balance way too cranked.
> 
> 
> 
> This is one thing the International version fixes.


I have used a colorimeter and HCFR on the T1, but the results were not perfect, probably because I don't have the colorimeter I need (have the colorchecker display pro) and/or I don't have it calibrated to this projector. In any case, I used the colorimeter and HCFR to calibrate my Samsung LED, and that worked well, so I have been using that as a point of reference for me to manually adjust RGB so that the picture I see on my T1 is a pretty good match for what I see on the Samsung, plus using test patterns to get greyscale and white balance looking correct, as well as saturation, etc. I feel pretty good about where I am with color, greyscale, white balance, contrast, black levels, etc. The problem is that those dang lips just light up when you send an LLDV/HDR/DV signal to the T1. Don't know why. I can somewhat mitigate it by reducing saturation a bit, but with SDR I don't have to worry about it.


----------



## MRJAZZZ

If anyone in this long thread has had experience with the T1 and the BOWMAKER UST, can you advise as to how superior the T1 is?
I know the contrast is better, however on day to day usage is there a huge difference in these two UST projectors?
Thanks in advance for anyone who's had experience with both .


----------



## lattiboy

MRJAZZZ said:


> If anyone in this long thread has had experience with the T1 and the BOWMAKER UST, can you advise as to how superior the T1 is?
> I know the contrast is better, however on day to day usage is there a huge difference in these two UST projectors?
> Thanks in advance for anyone who's had experience with both .


Bomaker has better color fidelity and very good CMS system. T1 has much better contrast and black level. Both about equally bright.

Bomaker is a fake company and you’ll never have support or repair, so you’re taking a big risk there.

If you can get the Bomaker for $1500 or so it’s a steal.

I have owned both.


----------



## MRJAZZZ

Thanks Lattiboy....


----------



## rjyap

Grazed said:


> I have not personally since I was not sure what meter to buy to get a good calibration on the T1. I kept seeing conflicting information on if certain meters can calibrate a tri laser unit accurately or not. Any recommendations?
> 
> Also I figured without a proper CMS I wouldn't be able to dial it in as best as it could unless projectivy opens that up as well?


You need a spectrometer to profile your colorimeter. I'm using i1 Pro ver 1 and Dave is using i1 Pro ver 2. As both i1 Pro is 10nm spectro, I remember reading an article that due to the narrow spectrum of tri-laser, for best accuracy it's advice to use a spectro that can measure less than 5nm wavelength. As home user, it's totally out from my price range and to gauge the accuracy of the calibration, I check the calibrated image against my calibrated laptop generated greyscale for any color skew. So far I don't see any color shift issue.


----------



## ProFragger

antjes said:


> Thanks for your explanation.
> I will keep Chromecast for children TV and I will still be using Fire Stick 4k with T1
> 
> Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


You're welcome, my friend. I think even for the Firestick, you need Firestick Max or Cube to fix the Atmos through Netflix. It's really crumby, but I think it has to do with FireOS v 7.x or less not being enabled for it... Good luck!


----------



## ProFragger

m0j0 said:


> I have used a colorimeter and HCFR on the T1, but the results were not perfect, probably because I don't have the colorimeter I need (have the colorchecker display pro) and/or I don't have it calibrated to this projector. In any case, I used the colorimeter and HCFR to calibrate my Samsung LED, and that worked well, so I have been using that as a point of reference for me to manually adjust RGB so that the picture I see on my T1 is a pretty good match for what I see on the Samsung, plus using test patterns to get greyscale and white balance looking correct, as well as saturation, etc. I feel pretty good about where I am with color, greyscale, white balance, contrast, black levels, etc. The problem is that those dang lips just light up when you send an LLDV/HDR/DV signal to the T1. Don't know why. I can somewhat mitigate it by reducing saturation a bit, but with SDR I don't have to worry about it.


Thanks for explaining and confirming this, @m0j0, this is the bug/issue I tried to show you in our DMs with that movie on Netflix.

BTW, if I remember correctly, if you watch the same DV scene with T1 doing DV without HDFury, I _think_ (not sure) the red rips and parts if nostrils goes away... I could be wrong. The downside is, not adjustments to the PQ available, otherwise 😅...


----------



## ProFragger

lattiboy said:


> Bomaker has better color fidelity and very good CMS system. T1 has much better contrast and black level. Both about equally bright.
> 
> Bomaker is a fake company and you’ll never have support or repair, so you’re taking a big risk there.
> 
> If you can get the Bomaker for $1500 or so it’s a steal.
> 
> I have owned both.


Good to see you @lattiboy! Can you share the latest/best settings you have/had with your T1 and the HDFury device? Thanks!


----------



## Dave Harper

rjyap said:


> You need a spectrometer to profile your colorimeter. I'm using i1 Pro ver 1 and Dave is using i1 Pro ver 2. As both i1 Pro is 10nm spectro, I remember reading an article that due to the narrow spectrum of tri-laser, for best accuracy it's advice to use a spectro that can measure less than 5nm wavelength. As home user, it's totally out from my price range and to gauge the accuracy of the calibration, I check the calibrated image against my calibrated laptop generated greyscale for any color skew. So far I don't see any color shift issue.


We now have a JETI 1511 Hi-Res with a 2nm bandwidth to do the measurements. 

If you have an i1 Pro spectro I recall HCFR having a high resolution mode that can be activated which simulates a 5nm bandwidth on 10 nm meters such as these. From what I hear it’s better than not using it, but still not quite as accurate as a native 5nm or lower meter. 

Like I say though, even using a 10nm meter is better than not doing it all. The errors are only in the 3% range, which if you nail that then 3% is just about the limit of what they say can be seen by the human eye. 

Also if you use a decent colorimeter such as the C6 from SpectraCal and use a close, built in profile like for an RGB LED projector or you use the RAW profile, it gets you close enough that your eyes shouldn’t notice such a small error. 

I’ve also heard facing the colorimeter at the lens with the diffuser on can help with measurements because the diffuser of course diffuses the colored light going into the meter’s lens so such a narrow bandwidth laser can be read more effectively. I haven’t tried this myself but it’s worth a try if you have something like an i1D3 or whatever.


----------



## Dave Harper

m0j0 said:


> I have used a colorimeter and HCFR on the T1, but the results were not perfect, probably because I don't have the colorimeter I need (have the colorchecker display pro) and/or I don't have it calibrated to this projector. In any case, I used the colorimeter and HCFR to calibrate my Samsung LED, and that worked well, so I have been using that as a point of reference for me to manually adjust RGB so that the picture I see on my T1 is a pretty good match for what I see on the Samsung, plus using test patterns to get greyscale and white balance looking correct, as well as saturation, etc. I feel pretty good about where I am with color, greyscale, white balance, contrast, black levels, etc. The problem is that those dang lips just light up when you send an LLDV/HDR/DV signal to the T1. Don't know why. I can somewhat mitigate it by reducing saturation a bit, but with SDR I don't have to worry about it.


Are you talking with native HDR/DV or SDR converted to DV/LLDV? If the latter then maybe the Rec709 colors aren’t being mapped properly to the BT2020 gamut and are just being stretched out to BT2020, hence causing the oversaturated lips/reds?


----------



## rjyap

Dave Harper said:


> We now have a JETI 1511 Hi-Res with a 2nm bandwidth to do the measurements.
> 
> If you have an i1 Pro spectro I recall HCFR having a high resolution mode that can be activated which simulates a 5nm bandwidth on 10 nm meters such as these. From what I hear it’s better than not using it, but still not quite as accurate as a native 5nm or lower meter.
> 
> Like I say though, even using a 10nm meter is better than not doing it all. The errors are only in the 3% range, which if you nail that then 3% is just about the limit of what they say can be seen by the human eye.
> 
> Also if you use a decent colorimeter such as the C6 from SpectraCal and use a close, built in profile like for an RGB LED projector or you use the RAW profile, it gets you close enough that your eyes shouldn’t notice such a small error.
> 
> I’ve also heard facing the colorimeter at the lens with the diffuser on can help with measurements because the diffuser of course diffuses the colored light going into the meter’s lens so such a narrow bandwidth laser can be read more effectively. I haven’t tried this myself but it’s worth a try if you have something like an i1D3 or whatever.


When using diffuser, are u suggesting pointing directly to the lens? That’s the only scenario I would use the diffuser but that would take the screen out from the equation.


----------



## m0j0

Dave Harper said:


> Are you talking with native HDR/DV or SDR converted to DV/LLDV? If the latter then maybe the Rec709 colors aren’t being mapped properly to the BT2020 gamut and are just being stretched out to BT2020, hence causing the oversaturated lips/reds?


I'm talking about native HDR/DV. As an example, I saw this on Bridgerton, which is native DV via Netflix, and I saw this on 4k Aladdin (Live Action from 2019), which is HDR and not DV I believe. I have seen it with other movies as well.


----------



## m0j0

A few more pics


----------



## Dave Harper

rjyap said:


> When using diffuser, are u suggesting pointing directly to the lens? That’s the only scenario I would use the diffuser but that would take the screen out from the equation.


Yes that’s exactly what I’m talking about. 



m0j0 said:


> I'm talking about native HDR/DV. As an example, I saw this on Bridgerton, which is native DV via Netflix, and I saw this on 4k Aladdin (Live Action from 2019), which is HDR and not DV I believe. I have seen it with other movies as well.


OK thanks. Are you using DCI-P3 or BT2020 as the color gamut in your HDFury settings? Have you tried each one to see the extent of the issue?


----------



## Dave Harper

I just read these comments from @claw over in the Video Processor thread and thought maybe they could apply here to my previous post’s question regarding over saturated red lips:



claw said:


> …..Sony LLDV EDID 5 should work with the Sony projector. EDID 5 with the JVC would need the projector to be configured to DCI-P3 color profile instead of BT2020. *Otherwise over saturated reds*…....





claw said:


> Yes, Sony A1 LLDV EDID 5 *can result in oversaturated color* if your display does not have a DCI-P3 color profile…….


----------



## badboris

m0j0 said:


> I think the Zidoo Z9X is an excellent media player for playing local MKV files from a NAS or USB connected drive and I've been very impressed with the VS10 engine and prefer the Z9X over my previous configuration with Plex (which I used with a range of devices, including Apple TV 4k, Nvidia Shield Pro and Roku Ultra). They initially had some issues when building out the movie library (scanning all your media and adding them to your media library), but seemed to have worked all those issues out with recent beta builds (make sure to get the latest beta version installed before scanning your files). Only other limitation is streaming, so as long as you just plan to use it for playing local media files, you are good to go.


Thanks mojo, that helps a lot but just one more question - is it capable of LDDV from hdr10? like appleTV. Shield is what I use now but cannot do this.

Plan is to get Formovie Theater edition with an hdfury and need device that does lossless atmos and LLDV, which apple cannot


----------



## m0j0

badboris said:


> Thanks mojo, that helps a lot but just one more question - is it capable of LDDV from hdr10? like appleTV. Shield is what I use now but cannot do this.
> 
> Plan is to get Formovie Theater edition with an hdfury and need device that does lossless atmos and LLDV, which apple cannot


Zidoo Z9X can be configured to pass everything as LLDV, or only certain content, such as HDR10, for example. It can be paired with an HDFury or you can load custom EDID's directly into the Z9X. However, keep in mind, the Zidoo is for streaming local content only (your locally ripped MKV files), but not useful for streaming apps like Netflix, etc.


----------



## badboris

m0j0 said:


> Zidoo Z9X can be configured to pass everything as LLDV, or only certain content, such as HDR10, for example. It can be paired with an HDFury or you can load custom EDID's directly into the Z9X. However, keep in mind, the Zidoo is for streaming local content only (your locally ripped MKV files), but not useful for streaming apps like Netflix, etc.


thanks mojo. A box for streaming apps and local content would be ideal but it seems that if I want LDDV options + lossless atmos, the z9x is the only game in town. Having 2 boxes isn't a deal breaker.


----------



## okvcos

m0j0 said:


> With regard to the color gamut, my guiding premise is go with what looks good / whatever works. I initially was using the HDFury and sending everything as LLDV and was pretty happy with that. However, over time, I experimented with using SDR instead and actually felt the colors were more vibrant and natural overall, so started using that approach on my streaming devices. On the Z9X, I was still using LLDV until recently. I guess I just felt like there was this issue with lips being too vibrant and other oddities when using LLDV on the T1 and that detracted from my enjoyment somewhat. Changing over to the 600 MHz Rec709 EDID resolves that issue completely for me and gives me the best colors I have seen on the T1. Of course, the Z9X also uses the VS10 engine so that might be another factor, but overall, I haven't seen it look better as DV, HDR, etc. over the 709 setup, so I am just going with what looks best to me.


but in this case you no longer use the VS10 engine, everything comes out in SRD 709 ... right?


----------



## m0j0

okvcos said:


> but in this case you no longer use the VS10 engine, everything comes out in SRD 709 ... right?


It uses the rec 709 edid and also uses vs10 engine


----------



## okvcos

m0j0 said:


> It uses the rec 709 edid and also uses vs10 engine


Ok , but everything comes out in SRD 709 ?


----------



## m0j0

okvcos said:


> Ok , but everything comes out in SRD 709 ?


Yes, the signal is SDR 709 / 4.2.0 12-Bit, if I recall. The VS10 engine can work against SDR, HDR and DV, if configured to do so.


----------



## Grazed

Dave Harper said:


> OK thanks. Are you using DCI-P3 or BT2020 as the color gamut in your HDFury settings? Have you tried each one to see the extent of the issue?


Not to answer for m0j0 but I have tried switching between the three gamuts (including Rec. 709) in the HDFury DV settings and the DCI-P3 just made it a bit more red but none of them corrected the issue. I do have an international version on the way and I am genuinely curious if it has the same issue when I test it.


----------



## Grazed

ProFragger said:


> BTW, if I remember correctly, if you watch the same DV scene with T1 doing DV without HDFury, I _think_ (not sure) the red rips and parts if nostrils goes away... I could be wrong. The downside is, not adjustments to the PQ available, otherwise 😅...


This is correct I tried without the HDFury in the mix and the red lips are gone in DV content but only because the entire image (at least on my unit) shifts more towards green but I can't adjust the color settings lol.


----------



## m0j0

Grazed said:


> This is correct I tried without the HDFury in the mix and the red lips are gone in DV content but only because the entire image (at least on my unit) shifts more towards green but I can't adjust the color settings lol.


That might be the case with the T1 directly, but I believe I ran into the same issue with the more red/vibrant lips on the Z9X with custom bt.2020 edid (HDFury out of the loop), so it's not just an HDFury situation.


----------



## tnaik4

Dave Harper said:


> We now have a JETI 1511 Hi-Res with a 2nm bandwidth to do the measurements.
> 
> If you have an i1 Pro spectro I recall HCFR having a high resolution mode that can be activated which simulates a 5nm bandwidth on 10 nm meters such as these. From what I hear it’s better than not using it, but still not quite as accurate as a native 5nm or lower meter.
> 
> Like I say though, even using a 10nm meter is better than not doing it all. The errors are only in the 3% range, which if you nail that then 3% is just about the limit of what they say can be seen by the human eye.
> 
> Also if you use a decent colorimeter such as the C6 from SpectraCal and use a close, built in profile like for an RGB LED projector or you use the RAW profile, it gets you close enough that your eyes shouldn’t notice such a small error.
> 
> I’ve also heard facing the colorimeter at the lens with the diffuser on can help with measurements because the diffuser of course diffuses the colored light going into the meter’s lens so such a narrow bandwidth laser can be read more effectively. I haven’t tried this myself but it’s worth a try if you have something like an i1D3 or whatever.


I tried both RGB LED and RAW and the latter was too red, the rgb led was way more natural so i think that might be the closer to triple laser profile.


----------



## okvcos

m0j0 said:


> That might be the case with the T1 directly, but I believe I ran into the same issue with the more red/vibrant lips on the Z9X with custom bt.2020 edid (HDFury out of the loop), so it's not just an HDFury situation.


I have a Xiaomi C2 the use of the BT202o profile with HDfury, does not make the lips red,. It happens with the DCI-P3 profile .


----------



## shanedowley

okvcos said:


> I have a Xiaomi C2 the use of the BT202o profile with HDfury, does not make the lips red,. It happens with the DCI-P3 profile .


Same. I’m not seeing red issues on C2 with HDFURY Vertex2 using BT2020 custom DV data block. Screen grab of Vertex2 showing EDID and custom DV settings for LLDV.


----------



## JereyWolf

tnaik4 said:


> I tried both RGB LED and RAW and the latter was too red, the rgb led was way more natural so i think that might be the closer to triple laser profile.


In HCFR I use the "Wide Gamut LCD" profile for my i1Display Pro. 
I've tried many of the different profiles and found that to be the best for tri-laser projectors so far.


----------



## tnaik4

JereyWolf said:


> In HCFR I use the "Wide Gamut LCD" profile for my i1Display Pro.
> I've tried many of the different profiles and found that to be the best for tri-laser projectors so far.


Do u feel its natural ? Once i tried Raw profile i directly noticed a red push. Rgb led is the most natural i tried.


----------



## JereyWolf

tnaik4 said:


> Do u feel its natural ? Once i tried Raw profile i directly noticed a red push. Rgb led is the most natural i tried.


Yes, I think it works really well with the T1.
I'm using my Galaxy S22 in "Natural" mode as a reference and it's VERY close.

This images are close to how it looks in person and to me seem natural.


----------



## ProFragger

Grazed said:


> This is correct I tried without the HDFury in the mix and the red lips are gone in DV content but only because the entire image (at least on my unit) shifts more towards green but I can't adjust the color settings lol.


Haha well I'll be dammed! Thanks for confirming man.

BTW, when you get your T1, do you mind sharing some pictures from the DarkUST screen you have? So curious to see the output of it on the T1! Appreciate your help! 😊


----------



## m0j0

Some T1 pics from last night (nature pics from the Shield via Youtube and Matrix pics from the Z9X)


----------



## Grazed

ProFragger said:


> Haha well I'll be dammed! Thanks for confirming man.
> 
> BTW, when you get your T1, do you mind sharing some pictures from the DarkUST screen you have? So curious to see the output of it on the T1! Appreciate your help! 😊


No problem and just to clarify SDR and DV was fine but HDR10 content had the red lips still so like M0j0 said the problem is likely the T1 itself.

I have some screenshots already in the eye candy thread from when I first got the Chinese T1 unless you want to specifically see pictures of the Global version when it arrives.


----------



## Dave Harper

Grazed said:


> No problem and just to clarify SDR and DV was fine but HDR10 content had the red lips still so like M0j0 said the problem is likely the T1 itself.
> 
> I have some screenshots already in the eye candy thread from when I first got the Chinese T1 unless you want to specifically see pictures of the Global version when it arrives.


Maybe they aren't doing any desaturation in their tone mapping process? i.e. - They are mapping the luminance down from e.g. 1,000 nits to 100 nits, but the color luminance is still thinking it is displaying at the original 1,000 nits. Member @Javs is a pro with this stuff from his time assisting with the development of madVR, so maybe he can chime in with some tips?


----------



## DeOxidizer

Hi Guys, just got my new T1 but I have a setup problem: 
After starting the projector I am connecting the remote setting the focus and picture frame. then I added the wifi and and the still in chinese projector "building a map"? and I get this screen.
Network is OK. How do I continue?

Please assist


----------



## m0j0

DeOxidizer said:


> Hi Guys, just got my new T1 but I have a setup problem:
> After starting the projector I am connecting the remote setting the focus and picture frame. then I added the wifi and and the still in chinese projector "building a map"? and I get this screen.
> Network is OK. How do I continue?
> 
> Please assist


They didn't send to you with English menus installed? That's your first concern IMO. Reach out to your seller and get their help with fixing that first. Then, figure out what's going on with your wifi or just run an ethernet cable to your projector.


----------



## DeOxidizer

m0j0 said:


> They didn't send to you with English menus installed? That's your first concern IMO. Reach out to your seller and get their help with fixing that first. Then, figure out what's going on with your wifi or just run an ethernet cable to your projector.


Thanks for thyyour reply the wifi is just fine but maybe I can not connect from Israel?
I reached to the seller on Alibaba. No response yet.
Can someone Help me to set the menus?


----------



## NicoDXB

Hi Everyone,

I have been trawling through many of your the close to 320 pages of QA, and I must admit I am getting very confused.

I recently replaced my TV with a Xiaomi 4K projector global version with limited success.
Picture looks good, but especially moving scenes like sport, F1 and football I find a little challenging to watch on the projector - I also find the projector a little noisy as I have to run it at highest brightness in my projection display conditions.
I found HDR settings to be increasing the dark levels too much and ended up setting up the ATV4K in SDR mode to get it acceptable - The moving scenes is still an issue for me though.

Anyway: The concept is still intriguing enough that I would like it to work - As the X4K is almost brand new I can sell it will limited loss.

Looking at the T1, I am thinking this would be a great upgrade - Especially as it has MEMC.

I am not an afficionado, like many of you, so picture needs to be good, but I can probably not really understand the benefit of a VERTEX or HDFury.

My streaming unit is an ATV4K, and I really just want to boot into the HDMI port of the ATV4K use CEC to control the ATV4K with the remote of the T1, and otherwise just use the projector android system for as little as possible.

Would this work acceptable without too much tweaking?

On the X4K I find it very convenient to long press the menu button and be able to select the display profile that is good for my current environment (Ambient or night).
The whole idea is to get rid of an ugly TV in the living room mounted on the wall and just have a projector instead - But is it realistic?

Should I return the Chinese T1 I ordered and opt for the international version (Which I did not even knew existed until now) or simply just stick to my X4K or even go back to a television and pick up the fight with my wife 

Any advise greatly appreciated.

From reading the forum here the T1 may just be a bit to finnicky - Also taking into account that also my wife will be using the setup.


----------



## m0j0

DeOxidizer said:


> Thanks for thyyour reply the wifi is just fine but maybe I can not connect from Israel?
> I reached to the seller on Alibaba. No response yet.
> Can someone Help me to set the menus?


I think there were some instructions awhile back that someone posted about setting the english menus, or if not, probably on youtube. Sorry, I don't have first hand experience with that.


----------



## m0j0

NicoDXB said:


> Hi Everyone,
> 
> I have been trawling through many of your the close to 320 pages of QA, and I must admit I am getting very confused.
> 
> I recently replaced my TV with a Xiaomi 4K projector global version with limited success.
> Picture looks good, but especially moving scenes like sport, F1 and football I find a little challenging to watch on the projector - I also find the projector a little noisy as I have to run it at highest brightness in my projection display conditions.
> I found HDR settings to be increasing the dark levels too much and ended up setting up the ATV4K in SDR mode to get it acceptable - The moving scenes is still an issue for me though.
> 
> Anyway: The concept is still intriguing enough that I would like it to work - As the X4K is almost brand new I can sell it will limited loss.
> 
> Looking at the T1, I am thinking this would be a great upgrade - Especially as it has MEMC.
> 
> I am not an afficionado, like many of you, so picture needs to be good, but I can probably not really understand the benefit of a VERTEX or HDFury.
> 
> My streaming unit is an ATV4K, and I really just want to boot into the HDMI port of the ATV4K use CEC to control the ATV4K with the remote of the T1, and otherwise just use the projector android system for as little as possible.
> 
> Would this work acceptable without too much tweaking?
> 
> On the X4K I find it very convenient to long press the menu button and be able to select the display profile that is good for my current environment (Ambient or night).
> The whole idea is to get rid of an ugly TV in the living room mounted on the wall and just have a projector instead - But is it realistic?
> 
> Should I return the Chinese T1 I ordered and opt for the international version (Which I did not even knew existed until now) or simply just stick to my X4K or even go back to a television and pick up the fight with my wife
> 
> Any advise greatly appreciated.
> 
> From reading the forum here the T1 may just be a bit to finnicky - Also taking into account that also my wife will be using the setup.


It all comes down to your budget. If you're in a position to send back your T1, sell your other projector and buy the T1 Global, that seems to be the best course of action, as it has Android 11 and provides more capability/options to calibrate the picture and get the best color, black levels and contrast available. Running without an HDFury is a viable option, as long as you are ok with 4K SDR. I am running this way on the Nvidia Shield and am pretty happy with the results at the moment. However, if you are not in a position to spend the extra to go up to the Global, the Chinese T1 is a good projector and you can get a quality image with it.


----------



## JereyWolf

DeOxidizer said:


> Thanks for thyyour reply the wifi is just fine but maybe I can not connect from Israel?
> I reached to the seller on Alibaba. No response yet.
> Can someone Help me to set the menus?


Post #319








Formovie Fengmi T1


Hi @lattiboy, great news thanks for posting (I think a lot of people can start breathing again...). Given the recent discussion about a red cast to the images, do you see any evidence of that in the flesh? While I don't have quite your collection of projectors, I also have a Bomaker and...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## rjyap

Just done extensive test on Game mode in Projectivity and FengOS. I’m using Lenovo Legion 5 RTX 3070 with 165hz panel as latency test against T1 using stopwatch apps.

For anyone wanted to adjust white balance under game mode, you must switch to game mode first in FengOS, then go to projectivity mediatek settings and change the profile to game mode and double check the white balance menu. When u wanted to switch back to HDMI 3 input, DO NOT select HDMI 3 directly in your projectivity input selection. If u do this, it will automatically select standard color temp which is very bluish white. Instead select source then select HDMI 3 from the source menu. This is the only way I can get the white balance setting to stick.

User/custom mode around 116ms lag
Game mode around 33ms lag (2 frames on 60hz)


----------



## ProFragger

Grazed said:


> No problem and just to clarify SDR and DV was fine but HDR10 content had the red lips still so like M0j0 said the problem is likely the T1 itself.
> 
> I have some screenshots already in the eye candy thread from when I first got the Chinese T1 unless you want to specifically see pictures of the Global version when it arrives.


Yes Sir... I meant the Global version 😊.


----------



## NicoDXB

m0j0 said:


> It all comes down to your budget. If you're in a position to send back your T1, sell your other projector and buy the T1 Global, that seems to be the best course of action, as it has Android 11 and provides more capability/options to calibrate the picture and get the best color, black levels and contrast available. Running without an HDFury is a viable option, as long as you are ok with 4K SDR. I am running this way on the Nvidia Shield and am pretty happy with the results at the moment. However, if you are not in a position to spend the extra to go up to the Global, the Chinese T1 is a good projector and you can get a quality image with it.


Thanks a lot for your response,

I understand that the color tone is specifically requiring tuning when using HDR, does the projector have the same issue when running DV? Or do you see the issue on all HDR formats (including DV)?

Is it not expected that the tone mapping issues and introduction of a CMS will just be fixed in a future firmware release with Fengmi? I understand some of you are in touch with fengmi support already?

As I am really only planning to stream from my ATV4, I am hoping to just have a profile or two that i use and then switch depending on the time of day (Ambient light). 

Finally: How are the fans during operation?

Sorry if these questions are maybe already answered, but hard to get a consistent view out of the 320 pages of comments  

Nic


----------



## MRJAZZZ

Yes, I also am curious about fan noise and possible coil wine . I am currently using a BOWMAKER Polaris and it's very quiet ( fan), with Zero coil wine.


----------



## tnaik4

rjyap said:


> View attachment 3310051
> 
> View attachment 3310050
> 
> View attachment 3310053
> 
> View attachment 3310052
> 
> Just done extensive test on Game mode in Projectivity and FengOS. I’m using Lenovo Legion 5 RTX 3070 with 165hz panel as latency test against T1 using stopwatch apps.
> 
> For anyone wanted to adjust white balance under game mode, you must switch to game mode first in FengOS, then go to projectivity mediatek settings and change the profile to game mode and double check the white balance menu. When u wanted to switch back to HDMI 3 input, DO NOT select HDMI 3 directly in your projectivity input selection. If u do this, it will automatically select standard color temp which is very bluish white. Instead select source then select HDMI 3 from the source menu. This is the only way I can get the white balance setting to stick.
> 
> User/custom mode around 116ms lag
> Game mode around 33ms lag (2 frames on 60hz)


Ive been getting this bug and not sure how to fix it, thank you for posting the solution, everytime i calibrate in Projectivy and going back to hdmi3 it ll change the color temp, it wont stick, when i m home i ll try ur fix.


----------



## NicoDXB

One quick question that I hope some of you can validate, as I have never used FENG OS before or even that experienced on android TV (And I do not have a projector at hand, it is being shipped - And I should have checked this earlier).
So frustrating not really knowing what this OS is and its features, and seriously considering just to reject the parcel from Banggood and ask for my money back (Anyone have experience on the timeline for such refunds and if they happen at all?) and then go for the global version (I wish I had known about that before I pressed purchase)

*Anyway...*
On the standard android TV that is on my Xiaomi 4K I have the ability to long hold the select button, which brings up an overlay to select image control, sound and HDMI port settings.
Does this work with FengOS as well or do I have to go back into the main system if I want to change during a film?
Also: Can someone confirm that CEC works on the AppleTV - The idea is to have as few remotes as possible and I don't mind controlling my AppleTV with the projector remote.

I am pretty sure anyone with HDMI device is using this feature, so if you can do a few pictures of how it works on FengOS?

I am still considering just keeping the projector, but do prefer these pretty basic functionality. All streaming is done from my ATV4 - So the projector OS is totally irellevant for me as long as I can adjust it.

Nicolai


This is how it looks for me on the X4K - Sorry for washed out picture, could not bother with the blinds - and I am still waiting for my screen to arrive


----------



## NicoDXB

ProjectionHead said:


> u’ll see tech be shared between them wi


----------



## antjes

Today I played several movies with Atmos and I got this doubt, I didnt have any logo on screen using B&W T1 Speaker. T1 sound system can play Atmos? , should I get any Atmos logo on playing?


Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## ProFragger

antjes said:


> Today I played several movies with Atmos and I got this doubt, I didnt have any logo on screen using B&W T1 Speaker. T1 sound system can play Atmos? , should I get any Atmos logo on playing?
> 
> 
> Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


You can check with Netflix too, if you select the Atmos track, and your speaker doesn't support it, you won't hear anything... That's how I caught the Chromecast issue in the first place...


----------



## Grazed

Just got done doing some testing with the Global T1. Since I was swapping projectors anyway I also decided to test my old Optoma P2 again so I have comparison between all three projectors. Here are some pictures of the Chinese T1, Global T1, and Optoma P2:

*Chinese T1*

This scene in the movie _The Greatest Showman_ shows the red push issue I have in LLDV and HDR with certain content:









This is how the same scene looks in SDR and Native DV:









Dark scene in the movie _Gravity:_









Dark scene in the movie _The Batman:







_

Bright scene in the movie_ The Meg _(no obvious red push in this movie no matter the dynamic range)_:







_

Focus Screen:










*Optoma P2 *

_The Greatest Showman_:









Dark scene in the movie _Gravity:







_

Dark scene in the movie _The Batman:_









Bright scene in the movie_ The Meg _(latest firmware update causes highlights to have a tint of green)_:







_


*Global T1*

_The Greatest Showman_:









Dark scene in the movie _Gravity:_









Dark scene in the movie _The Batman:_









Bright scene in the movie_ The Meg:_









Focus Screen:









The Global T1 fixes the red push in HDR and LLDV which was my main reason for buying. I did not expect the blacks to be a bit deeper and show more shadow detail compared to the Chinese T1 but it is so that is a bonus (not sure if you can tell by the pictures but it is noticeable). The HDMI handshake issue is not fixed but it doesn't happen as often as the Chinese T1. Noise level is pretty much the same and sharpness is good even though I didn't have an issue with that on my Chinese unit but I know others have.

I do unfortunately have to get a replacement since my unit had what I assume to be dust on the inside of the lens which causes the left half of the screen to be a different tint compared to the right in bright scenes (you can see it on the focus screen picture). Brian was quick to respond and got me all squared away so it shouldn't be long before I get the replacement. I've been spoiled now so I can't wait 😁


----------



## ba_crane

Grazed said:


> Just got done doing some testing with the Global T1. Since I was swapping projectors anyway I also decided to test my old Optoma P2 again so I have comparison between all three projectors. Here are some pictures of the Chinese T1, Global T1, and Optoma P2:
> 
> *Chinese T1*
> 
> This scene in the movie _The Greatest Showman_ shows the red push issue I have in LLDV and HDR with certain content:
> View attachment 3310483
> 
> 
> This is how the same scene looks in SDR and Native DV:
> View attachment 3310484
> 
> 
> Dark scene in the movie _Gravity:_
> View attachment 3310485
> 
> 
> Dark scene in the movie _The Batman:
> View attachment 3310490
> _
> 
> Bright scene in the movie_ The Meg _(no obvious red push in this movie no matter the dynamic range)_:
> View attachment 3310492
> _
> 
> Focus Screen:
> View attachment 3310487
> 
> 
> 
> *Optoma P2 *
> 
> _The Greatest Showman_:
> View attachment 3310488
> 
> 
> Dark scene in the movie _Gravity:
> View attachment 3310489
> _
> 
> Dark scene in the movie _The Batman:_
> View attachment 3310494
> 
> 
> Bright scene in the movie_ The Meg _(latest firmware update causes highlights to have a tint of green)_:
> View attachment 3310495
> _
> 
> 
> *Global T1*
> 
> _The Greatest Showman_:
> View attachment 3310497
> 
> 
> Dark scene in the movie _Gravity:_
> View attachment 3310498
> 
> 
> Dark scene in the movie _The Batman:_
> View attachment 3310499
> 
> 
> Bright scene in the movie_ The Meg:_
> View attachment 3310500
> 
> 
> Focus Screen:
> View attachment 3310501
> 
> 
> The Global T1 fixes the red push in HDR and LLDV which was my main reason for buying. I did not expect the blacks to be a bit deeper and show more shadow detail compared to the Chinese T1 but it is so that is a bonus (not sure if you can tell by the pictures but it is noticeable). The HDMI handshake issue is not fixed but it doesn't happen as often as the Chinese T1. Noise level is pretty much the same and sharpness is good even though I didn't have an issue with that on my Chinese unit but I know others have.
> 
> I do unfortunately have to get a replacement since my unit had what I assume to be dust on the inside of the lens which causes the left half of the screen to be a different tint compared to the right in bright scenes (you can see it on the focus screen picture). Brian was quick to respond and got me all squared away so it shouldn't be long before I get the replacement. I've been spoiled now so I can't wait 😁


Wow, seems to be a common issue


----------



## madmax777

hello everyone.
tell me such a question:
A couple of days ago I received a Formovie T1 Global projector, when I first turned on the image is very crooked, especially in the upper part of the screen, the screen has not yet arrived from China. Without a screen, it is very difficult to align the edges. The projector was set by level and roulette. I tried to reset to factory settings many times. Put the projector closer and further away from the wall. Nothing helps. At the top, the edges are uneven in waves, you can't even align this with 8 points. In the upper part, the image is very blurry and the bottom is normal. The more I align the top, the worse the focus becomes. On my other projector (xgimi h2), the image was immediately smooth, there is no experience with ultrashort. Tell me who has such a projector, should it be so crooked when you turn it on for the first time? or was it dropped during transportation and something moved?
thanks

p.s. I am writing through a translator, sorry if something is wrong


----------



## antjes

ProFragger said:


> You can check with Netflix too, if you select the Atmos track, and your speaker doesn't support it, you won't hear anything... That's how I caught the Chromecast issue in the first place...


Thanks but…..
I can't check it with netflix, I have 2 streamers:
1. Google chromecast, as you already know, does not work in Atmos.
2. Fire stick 4K, don’t let me choose atmos audio between movie options, I can choose stereo or 5.1.

So I play a movie (with AtmosTab) in Zidoo z9x and choose 7.1true hd, then I get sound trough T1 speaker but no logo, then my question is….should I get an Atmos logo on screen when Atmos layer is working or not?

So with question about logo, I want to be sure of:
1. B&W T1 sound system is ready for Atmos, can process it?
2. My Zidoo is taking Atmos info/data/layer correctly?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## antjes

Grazed said:


> Just got done doing some testing with the Global T1. Since I was swapping projectors anyway I also decided to test my old Optoma P2 again so I have comparison between all three projectors. Here are some pictures of the Chinese T1, Global T1, and Optoma P2:
> 
> *Chinese T1*
> 
> This scene in the movie _The Greatest Showman_ shows the red push issue I have in LLDV and HDR with certain content:
> View attachment 3310483
> 
> 
> This is how the same scene looks in SDR and Native DV:
> View attachment 3310484
> 
> 
> Dark scene in the movie _Gravity:_
> View attachment 3310485
> 
> 
> Dark scene in the movie _The Batman:
> View attachment 3310490
> _
> 
> Bright scene in the movie_ The Meg _(no obvious red push in this movie no matter the dynamic range)_:
> View attachment 3310492
> _
> 
> Focus Screen:
> View attachment 3310487
> 
> 
> 
> *Optoma P2 *
> 
> _The Greatest Showman_:
> View attachment 3310488
> 
> 
> Dark scene in the movie _Gravity:
> View attachment 3310489
> _
> 
> Dark scene in the movie _The Batman:_
> View attachment 3310494
> 
> 
> Bright scene in the movie_ The Meg _(latest firmware update causes highlights to have a tint of green)_:
> View attachment 3310495
> _
> 
> 
> *Global T1*
> 
> _The Greatest Showman_:
> View attachment 3310497
> 
> 
> Dark scene in the movie _Gravity:_
> View attachment 3310498
> 
> 
> Dark scene in the movie _The Batman:_
> View attachment 3310499
> 
> 
> Bright scene in the movie_ The Meg:_
> View attachment 3310500
> 
> 
> Focus Screen:
> View attachment 3310501
> 
> 
> The Global T1 fixes the red push in HDR and LLDV which was my main reason for buying. I did not expect the blacks to be a bit deeper and show more shadow detail compared to the Chinese T1 but it is so that is a bonus (not sure if you can tell by the pictures but it is noticeable). The HDMI handshake issue is not fixed but it doesn't happen as often as the Chinese T1. Noise level is pretty much the same and sharpness is good even though I didn't have an issue with that on my Chinese unit but I know others have.
> 
> I do unfortunately have to get a replacement since my unit had what I assume to be dust on the inside of the lens which causes the left half of the screen to be a different tint compared to the right in bright scenes (you can see it on the focus screen picture). Brian was quick to respond and got me all squared away so it shouldn't be long before I get the replacement. I've been spoiled now so I can't wait 😁


Thanks for the test.

I don’t like to get conclusions according to pictures, but in this case if camera and room setup is same for all shots then it can be worthy.

Any case, can you share what is your config for Chinese T1?
Maybe I’m wrong but IMHO you can get a better picture from that Chinese T1.


----------



## rjyap

If anyone using MadVR make sure not to use HDR output to avoid double HDR mapping. It’s known that older title will have red push when using HDR output. Here’s the photo MadVR output in SDR Rec 2020 wide color gamut from UHD 4K source. Fengmi T1 will always use wide color gamut even in SDR mode so you need video processor to remap the color to Rec 709 for Blu-ray or SDR movie.


----------



## dami1337

rjyap said:


> If anyone using MadVR make sure not to use HDR output to avoid double HDR mapping. It’s known that older title will have red push when using HDR output. Here’s the photo MadVR output in SDR Rec 2020 wide color gamut from UHD 4K source. Fengmi T1 will always use wide color gamut even in SDR mode so you need video processor to remap the color to Rec 709 for Blu-ray or SDR movie.
> View attachment 3310675


Which movie/series and minute is this shot from?


----------



## rjyap

dami1337 said:


> Which movie/series and minute is this shot from?


The Greatest Showman. Somewhere in the middle of the movie. It's a good source to check for red push in skin tone.


----------



## m0j0

T1 pics from last night:


----------



## ba_crane

m0j0 said:


> T1 pics from last night:


Your pictures are frustrating m0j0. It’s what keeps making me want to give the T1 a try, while so many others aren’t getting close to your image quality. There’s a handful that can’t even get a projector without dust blobs or straight edges.


----------



## m0j0

ba_crane said:


> Your pictures are frustrating m0j0. It’s what keeps making me want to give the T1 a try, while so many others aren’t getting close to your image quality. There’s a handful that can’t even get a projector without dust blobs or straight edges.


UST's in general are hard to take pictures of, so try to not get too frustrated when you see a bad pic. Things typically look much better in person than in the pictures. As for straight, once you have a screen, you will be able to get a straight image, either through manually aligning the projector or the combination of aligning manually plus a bit of keystone.


----------



## zoomx2

Of course won’t be straight if project to the wall. How prefect the wall could be seriously? You need a screen to get the best picture for sure. See the difference before I hang the screen.


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## ba_crane

I’ve projected on wall with 2 projectors, Epson snd JVC, both straight as visible eye can tell, so surprised to see these images that have a bend in them


----------



## m0j0

ba_crane said:


> I’ve projected on wall with 2 projectors, Epson snd JVC, both straight as visible eye can tell, so surprised to see these images that have a bend in them


That can be corrected with alignment and/or keystone adjustments. It's probably just more pronounced on a UST when not corrected due to the more extreme angles.


----------



## ProjectionHead

ba_crane said:


> I’ve projected on wall with 2 projectors, Epson snd JVC, both straight as visible eye can tell, so surprised to see these images that have a bend in them


That’s because those weren’t USTs. The steep angle of the light from the UST accentuates any deviations in flatness.


----------



## ProjectionHead

ba_crane said:


> Wow, seems to be a common issue


Common? This is the first one reported to me; the other was something different from Brajesh. So far those are the only 2 problems out of 30 units, so while not great, still not terrible.
Fortunately they are working with someone who handles any issues immediately…
We will be doing our own QC on all units prior to shipping going forward as well.


----------



## ProjectionHead

madmax777 said:


> hello everyone.
> tell me such a question:
> A couple of days ago I received a Formovie T1 Global projector, when I first turned on the image is very crooked, especially in the upper part of the screen, the screen has not yet arrived from China. Without a screen, it is very difficult to align the edges. The projector was set by level and roulette. I tried to reset to factory settings many times. Put the projector closer and further away from the wall. Nothing helps. At the top, the edges are uneven in waves, you can't even align this with 8 points. In the upper part, the image is very blurry and the bottom is normal. The more I align the top, the worse the focus becomes. On my other projector (xgimi h2), the image was immediately smooth, there is no experience with ultrashort. Tell me who has such a projector, should it be so crooked when you turn it on for the first time? or was it dropped during transportation and something moved?
> thanks
> 
> p.s. I am writing through a translator, sorry if something is wrong


It’s because you are not using a screen and your wall is not perfectly flat. Try projecting on a different wall and you will see that the “unevenness” is not in the same spots.
USTs need a screen or perfectly flat wall to avoid geometric distortion.


----------



## okvcos

By comparison to what was said above about the push of red in LLDV .
This is the vision of the Xiaomi C2 with HDfury Vertex2 + Zidoo Z9X LLDV


----------



## shanedowley

Grazed said:


> Just got done doing some testing with the Global T1. Since I was swapping projectors anyway I also decided to test my old Optoma P2 again so I have comparison between all three projectors. Here are some pictures of the Chinese T1, Global T1, and Optoma P2:
> 
> *Chinese T1*
> 
> This scene in the movie _The Greatest Showman_ shows the red push issue I have in LLDV and HDR with certain content:
> View attachment 3310483
> 
> 
> This is how the same scene looks in SDR and Native DV:
> View attachment 3310484
> 
> 
> Dark scene in the movie _Gravity:_
> View attachment 3310485
> 
> 
> Dark scene in the movie _The Batman:
> View attachment 3310490
> _
> 
> Bright scene in the movie_ The Meg _(no obvious red push in this movie no matter the dynamic range)_:
> View attachment 3310492
> _
> 
> Focus Screen:
> View attachment 3310487
> 
> 
> 
> *Optoma P2 *
> 
> _The Greatest Showman_:
> View attachment 3310488
> 
> 
> Dark scene in the movie _Gravity:
> View attachment 3310489
> _
> 
> Dark scene in the movie _The Batman:_
> View attachment 3310494
> 
> 
> Bright scene in the movie_ The Meg _(latest firmware update causes highlights to have a tint of green)_:
> View attachment 3310495
> _
> 
> 
> *Global T1*
> 
> _The Greatest Showman_:
> View attachment 3310497
> 
> 
> Dark scene in the movie _Gravity:_
> View attachment 3310498
> 
> 
> Dark scene in the movie _The Batman:_
> View attachment 3310499
> 
> 
> Bright scene in the movie_ The Meg:_
> View attachment 3310500
> 
> 
> Focus Screen:
> View attachment 3310501
> 
> 
> The Global T1 fixes the red push in HDR and LLDV which was my main reason for buying. I did not expect the blacks to be a bit deeper and show more shadow detail compared to the Chinese T1 but it is so that is a bonus (not sure if you can tell by the pictures but it is noticeable). The HDMI handshake issue is not fixed but it doesn't happen as often as the Chinese T1. Noise level is pretty much the same and sharpness is good even though I didn't have an issue with that on my Chinese unit but I know others have.
> 
> I do unfortunately have to get a replacement since my unit had what I assume to be dust on the inside of the lens which causes the left half of the screen to be a different tint compared to the right in bright scenes (you can see it on the focus screen picture). Brian was quick to respond and got me all squared away so it shouldn't be long before I get the replacement. I've been spoiled now so I can't wait 😁





rjyap said:


> If anyone using MadVR make sure not to use HDR output to avoid double HDR mapping. It’s known that older title will have red push when using HDR output. Here’s the photo MadVR output in SDR Rec 2020 wide color gamut from UHD 4K source. Fengmi T1 will always use wide color gamut even in SDR mode so you need video processor to remap the color to Rec 709 for Blu-ray or SDR movie.
> View attachment 3310675





rjyap said:


> If anyone using MadVR make sure not to use HDR output to avoid double HDR mapping. It’s known that older title will have red push when using HDR output. Here’s the photo MadVR output in SDR Rec 2020 wide color gamut from UHD 4K source. Fengmi T1 will always use wide color gamut even in SDR mode so you need video processor to remap the color to Rec 709 for Blu-ray or SDR movie.
> View attachment 3310675


Very useful comparisons. Thank you.


----------



## shanedowley

okvcos said:


> By comparison to what was said above about the push of red in LLDV .
> This is the vision of the Xiaomi C2 with HDfury Vertex2 + Zidoo Z9X LLDV
> 
> View attachment 3310868


What screen are you using?


----------



## Grazed

antjes said:


> Thanks for the test.
> 
> I don’t like to get conclusions according to pictures, but in this case if camera and room setup is same for all shots then it can be worthy.
> 
> Any case, can you share what is your config for Chinese T1?
> Maybe I’m wrong but IMHO you can get a better picture from that Chinese T1.


Yea I 100% agree about conclusions based on pictures which is why I shot all pictures with my mirrorless camera and manually controlled shutter speed, aperture, ISO, and white balance so all pictures have the same baseline and the only difference is the projector output itself.

I have pictures of my Chinese T1 and HDFury settings in a previous post somewhere in this thread that I'm too lazy to look for so I will just attach the images I have of the settings menus here. I've tinkered around with different settings for months and these were the settings I found were best for me in my room. I'm open to any other suggestions but I'd bet I've tried them all besides MadVR or Lumagen.


----------



## okvcos

shanedowley said:


> What screen are you using?


Grey 0.8 ALR Carl's Place , but now i'm DIY a XY Screen UST ALR Fabric PET Crystal Ultra 0.7 gain ( as a rule, I only buy the towel )


----------



## ba_crane

ProjectionHead said:


> Common? This is the first one reported to me; the other was something different from Brajesh. So far those are the only 2 problems out of 30 units, so while not great, still not terrible.
> Fortunately they are working with someone who handles any issues immediately…
> We will be doing our own QC on all units prior to shipping going forward as well.


Brajesh snd Grazed have both had issues with dust in the lens. Perhaps I’m not paying enough attention, but I haven’t seen many posts about owners of the International T1, but these two have posted about their units having a dust/lens issue. I think it’s great you guys are addressing problem right away, just makes me hesitant as a prospective customer seeing the lens and alignment trouble. I really want to give the T1 a try, just on the fence.


----------



## okvcos

Grazed said:


> Yea I 100% agree about conclusions based on pictures which is why I shot all pictures with my mirrorless camera and manually controlled shutter speed, aperture, ISO, and white balance so all pictures have the same baseline and the only difference is the projector output itself.
> 
> I have pictures of my Chinese T1 and HDFury settings in a previous post somewhere in this thread that I'm too lazy to look for so I will just attach the images I have of the settings menus here. I've tinkered around with different settings for months and these were the settings I found were best for me in my room. I'm open to any other suggestions but I'd bet I've tried them all besides MadVR or Lumagen.
> 
> View attachment 3310894
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry but if you put *DCI-P3 *primaries .... HDR you get the reds wrong


----------



## Grazed

okvcos said:


> Sorry but if you put *DCI-P3 *primaries .... HDR you get the reds wrong


That screen only changes stuff if I am outputting HDR while using the HDFury but I typically just used LLDV which would use the settings from the DV block settings until I saw that SDR looks way better. In a previous post I've said even without the HDFury in the chain the red push is there in HDR so the issue isn't the HDFury but rather the projector itself. I kept those same exact settings when I was testing the Global T1 and the Optoma P2 and neither had the red push for reference.


----------



## DesertDog

Deleted. Sorry, meant to post this in the Global thread.


----------



## MRJAZZZ

ba_crane said:


> Brajesh snd Grazed have both had issues with dust in the lens. Perhaps I’m not paying enough attention, but I haven’t seen many posts about owners of the International T1, but these two have posted about their units having a dust/lens issue. I think it’s great you guys are addressing problem right away, just makes me hesitant as a prospective customer seeing the lens and alignment trouble. I really want to give the T1 a try, just on the fence.


I have a T1 International coming next week. All this talk of dust blobs, etc. gives me some concern. Will report if there are any issues.


----------



## ba_crane

MRJAZZZ said:


> I have a T1 International coming next week. All this talk of dust blobs, etc. gives me some concern. Will report if there are any issues.


Appreciate it, hope you receive a good unit. I’m hoping to be impressed, more hesitant than anything at the moment.


----------



## spocky12

antjes said:


> Ok, its mamazing your job, I really apreciate your outstanding skills.
> but you were talking about next beta firmware which is still in the oven (or this is what I understood according to your message),
> Then do you have access to the next beta?
> 
> 
> Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


Sorry if there's a misunderstanding, but that's exactly the question I was trying to answer. You asked how did I get the beta and how did I know its contents :

I got it by using a script that detects new OTA firmwares and downloads them
I was able to find some of its content, not by installing it (for the reasons explained before) but by extracting the files and making comparisons.

Btw, there have been 2 new internal OTA updates since last week, so they're obviously still actively working on it.


----------



## rjyap

somehow after tuning the game profile settings in projectivity, the white balance changes now carry over to FengOS game profile. I no longer have bluish white in my FengOS game settings.


----------



## madmax777

[ЦИТАТА="madmax777, сообщение: 61837972, участник: 9634400"]
hello everyone.
tell me such a question:
A couple of days ago I received a Formovie T1 Global projector, when I first turned on the image is very crooked, especially in the upper part of the screen, the screen has not yet arrived from China. Without a screen, it is very difficult to align the edges. The projector was set by level and roulette. I tried to reset to factory settings many times. Put the projector closer and further away from the wall. Nothing helps. At the top, the edges are uneven in waves, you can't even align this with 8 points. In the upper part, the image is very blurry and the bottom is normal. The more I align the top, the worse the focus becomes. On my other projector (xgimi h2), the image was immediately smooth, there is no experience with ultrashort. Tell me who has such a projector, should it be so crooked when you turn it on for the first time? or was it dropped during transportation and something moved?
thanks

p.s. I am writing through a translator, sorry if something is wrong 
[/ЦИТИРОВАТЬ]

the screen will arrive in mid-August. I'm very worried that it's not about the screen. I'm worried that marriage


----------



## antjes

spocky12 said:


> Sorry if there's a misunderstanding, but that's exactly the question I was trying to answer. You asked how did I get the beta and how did I know its contents :
> 
> I got it by using a script that detects new OTA firmwares and downloads them
> I was able to find some of its content, not by installing it (for the reasons explained before) but by extracting the files and making comparisons.
> 
> Btw, there have been 2 new internal OTA updates since last week, so they're obviously still actively working on it.


I wish they are working on that. No tester has still received new beta. We will see…..but I understand they will have sold a lot of these units in china and as we know hardware is outstanding but software is not at the same level.


----------



## rjyap

madmax777 said:


> [ЦИТАТА="madmax777, сообщение: 61837972, участник: 9634400"]
> hello everyone.
> tell me such a question:
> A couple of days ago I received a Formovie T1 Global projector, when I first turned on the image is very crooked, especially in the upper part of the screen, the screen has not yet arrived from China. Without a screen, it is very difficult to align the edges. The projector was set by level and roulette. I tried to reset to factory settings many times. Put the projector closer and further away from the wall. Nothing helps. At the top, the edges are uneven in waves, you can't even align this with 8 points. In the upper part, the image is very blurry and the bottom is normal. The more I align the top, the worse the focus becomes. On my other projector (xgimi h2), the image was immediately smooth, there is no experience with ultrashort. Tell me who has such a projector, should it be so crooked when you turn it on for the first time? or was it dropped during transportation and something moved?
> thanks
> 
> p.s. I am writing through a translator, sorry if something is wrong
> [/ЦИТИРОВАТЬ]
> 
> the screen will arrive in mid-August. I'm very worried that it's not about the screen. I'm worried that marriage


Based on my experiment, the front right hand side of your projector is a bit lower. You can try to lift that part to check. As the projector have only 3 legs you can't adjust the front corner. What I do is adjust the shelf leg to level it.


----------



## DeOxidizer

One step at a time...
I managed to pass the annoying screen updated language to english and even managed to watch a 4k movie.
The problem is that even thought it seems I have internet connection (works anywhere but not on the projector)
I have tried wired and several wi-fi. I have tried using my phone hotspot. nothing works even though it seems to connect
I am unable to download the FengOS update.

Please help!


----------



## m0j0

madmax777 said:


> [ЦИТАТА="madmax777, сообщение: 61837972, участник: 9634400"]
> hello everyone.
> tell me such a question:
> A couple of days ago I received a Formovie T1 Global projector, when I first turned on the image is very crooked, especially in the upper part of the screen, the screen has not yet arrived from China. Without a screen, it is very difficult to align the edges. The projector was set by level and roulette. I tried to reset to factory settings many times. Put the projector closer and further away from the wall. Nothing helps. At the top, the edges are uneven in waves, you can't even align this with 8 points. In the upper part, the image is very blurry and the bottom is normal. The more I align the top, the worse the focus becomes. On my other projector (xgimi h2), the image was immediately smooth, there is no experience with ultrashort. Tell me who has such a projector, should it be so crooked when you turn it on for the first time? or was it dropped during transportation and something moved?
> thanks
> 
> p.s. I am writing through a translator, sorry if something is wrong
> [/ЦИТИРОВАТЬ]
> 
> the screen will arrive in mid-August. I'm very worried that it's not about the screen. I'm worried that marriage


You should post this in the Global T1 thread here:








Formovie Theater - Enhanced Global / International...


The new "Formovie Theater" a.k.a the Global Fengmi T1 has now been launched. https://www.projectorscreen.com/formovie-theater-ultra-short-throw-projector-2800-lumen-triple-laser-ust-fengmi-t1.html This is expected to be landing here in the USA mid-late June. This new enhanced model comes with...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## m0j0

DeOxidizer said:


> One step at a time...
> I managed to pass the annoying screen updated language to english and even managed to watch a 4k movie.
> The problem is that even thought it seems I have internet connection (works anywhere but not on the projector)
> I have tried wired and several wi-fi. I have tried using my phone hotspot. nothing works even though it seems to connect
> I am unable to download the FengOS update.
> 
> Please help!


If you can't connect to wifi nor ethernet, it could be a problem on the board. Have you tried a factory reset already?


----------



## ProFragger

Grazed said:


> Yea I 100% agree about conclusions based on pictures which is why I shot all pictures with my mirrorless camera and manually controlled shutter speed, aperture, ISO, and white balance so all pictures have the same baseline and the only difference is the projector output itself.
> 
> I have pictures of my Chinese T1 and HDFury settings in a previous post somewhere in this thread that I'm too lazy to look for so I will just attach the images I have of the settings menus here. I've tinkered around with different settings for months and these were the settings I found were best for me in my room. I'm open to any other suggestions but I'd bet I've tried them all besides MadVR or Lumagen.
> 
> View attachment 3310894
> 
> 
> View attachment 3310895
> 
> 
> View attachment 3310891
> 
> 
> View attachment 3310892
> 
> 
> View attachment 3310893


Thanks for the pictures man! So the red pushed DV scene from Greatest Show and the dark Gravity scene from the Chinese T1 had Vertex2 in the chain for mapping correction or that was raw T1 processing? If the latter, can you do the same comparison with how much the Vertex2 can correct the Red push and brightness, scene detail? 

Thanks for all your contributions!


----------



## Grazed

ProFragger said:


> Thanks for the pictures man! So the red pushed DV scene from Greatest Show and the dark Gravity scene from the Chinese T1 had Vertex2 in the chain for mapping correction or that was raw T1 processing? If the latter, can you do the same comparison with how much the Vertex2 can correct the Red push and brightness, scene detail?
> 
> Thanks for all your contributions!


That particular shot was with the Vertex2 in the chain and using LLDV but it looks pretty much the same if it was the T1 doing the processing but in HDR. However, when the T1 doing is the native DV processing the scene looks pretty similar to the shot I took in SDR.

The Vertex2 can’t do anything to fix the red push at least on my unit but brightness and scene detail you can affect up to a certain extent. The image of Gravity was with the most I get out of my unit as far as the black level and shadow detail.


----------



## NicoDXB

m0j0 said:


> It all comes down to your budget. If you're in a position to send back your T1, sell your other projector and buy the T1 Global, that seems to be the best course of action, as it has Android 11 and provides more capability/options to calibrate the picture and get the best color, black levels and contrast available. Running without an HDFury is a viable option, as long as you are ok with 4K SDR. I am running this way on the Nvidia Shield and am pretty happy with the results at the moment. However, if you are not in a position to spend the extra to go up to the Global, the Chinese T1 is a good projector and you can get a quality image with it.


Thanks M0j0,

Still a bit in doubt, but looking at the overall cost I think I will stick with the Chinese version of the T1.
I am ok with SDR - I am not a picture fanatic, and I would assume that some of the HDR issues will be solved in the future - All of my streaming is done on my apple TV and worst case I will get myself and HDFury and plug between- will still be cheaper then upgrading to global
Actually for me I want to keep the projector as dumb as possible - May even not connect it to the internet unless for updates.

If you could comment on a few small questions:

CEC works as expected (It is an old standard after-all)
Does the motion compensation work well - Probably my primary reason to upgrade over the Xiomi 4K, which let me down a bit here.
Is the fans loud or is the less then 28db realistic

I also expect that most of the issues identified will be handled by future software upgrades - Fengmi is afterall one of the largest projector suppliers in the world and the T1 is their flagship product for the chinese market, which is the biggest in the world.

Nicolai


----------



## manwithnoname

I'm loving the SDR output pictures everyone is sharing. Is there a straight forward way to force SDR? My only devices are the Roku Ultra 2022 and Sony x800 M2 blu-ray player.


----------



## m0j0

NicoDXB said:


> Thanks M0j0,
> 
> Still a bit in doubt, but looking at the overall cost I think I will stick with the Chinese version of the T1.
> I am ok with SDR - I am not a picture fanatic, and I would assume that some of the HDR issues will be solved in the future - All of my streaming is done on my apple TV and worst case I will get myself and HDFury and plug between- will still be cheaper then upgrading to global
> Actually for me I want to keep the projector as dumb as possible - May even not connect it to the internet unless for updates.
> 
> If you could comment on a few small questions:
> 
> CEC works as expected (It is an old standard after-all)
> Does the motion compensation work well - Probably my primary reason to upgrade over the Xiomi 4K, which let me down a bit here.
> Is the fans loud or is the less then 28db realistic
> 
> I also expect that most of the issues identified will be handled by future software upgrades - Fengmi is afterall one of the largest projector suppliers in the world and the T1 is their flagship product for the chinese market, which is the biggest in the world.
> 
> Nicolai


I'm with you on cost. The original, or "OG" T1, is a great projector in it's own right and looks great with SDR content for sure. You can run an ATV4k in 4k SDR and get a great picture. Same with the Shield (with 9.1 update) or Roku Ultra 2022.

As for your questions, CEC can work, but it depends a bit on the device connecting to the T1. Had some success with a Chromecast and Nvidia Shield, as well as Roku Ultra. Can't recall if it worked well with the ATV4K or not. Perhaps others can comment. Motion compensation works if you don't mind a little SOE. I mostly kept it off, but it was acceptable on low to medium, though I'm not a fan of SOE so for me, it was a bit stronger than I liked. Maybe something they can improve with future firmware updates. As to the fan, if you run in View Mode brightness like I do, then fan noise is quite low. A lot of times when I'm testing, I run with sound completely off, and even with it being super quiet at night with no other noise, I barely notice the fans from about 9 feet back.


----------



## m0j0

manwithnoname said:


> I'm loving the SDR output pictures everyone is sharing. Is there a straight forward way to force SDR? My only devices are the Roku Ultra 2022 and Sony x800 M2 blu-ray player.


On the Roku Ultra, you just go to advanced display settings and make sure Dolby Vision is turned off and select Ultra HD 4k resolution (No HDR and No DV). Once in awhile, your Roku might auto detect or change these settings, so you just have to go back in and switch it back. Doesn't happen often though so not a big deal. With the Sony, you can choose to not enable Dolby Vision and I think you can set HDR to off as well. Been awhile since I checked the Sony settings though. I run it with DV enabled and use an HDFury device for the Sony x700 m2.


----------



## JackB

madmax777 said:


> [ЦИТАТА="madmax777, сообщение: 61837972, участник: 9634400"]
> hello everyone.
> tell me such a question:
> A couple of days ago I received a Formovie T1 Global projector, when I first turned on the image is very crooked, especially in the upper part of the screen, the screen has not yet arrived from China. Without a screen, it is very difficult to align the edges. The projector was set by level and roulette. I tried to reset to factory settings many times. Put the projector closer and further away from the wall. Nothing helps. At the top, the edges are uneven in waves, you can't even align this with 8 points. In the upper part, the image is very blurry and the bottom is normal. The more I align the top, the worse the focus becomes. On my other projector (xgimi h2), the image was immediately smooth, there is no experience with ultrashort. Tell me who has such a projector, should it be so crooked when you turn it on for the first time? or was it dropped during transportation and something moved?
> thanks
> 
> p.s. I am writing through a translator, sorry if something is wrong
> [/ЦИТИРОВАТЬ]
> 
> the screen will arrive in mid-August. I'm very worried that it's not about the screen. I'm worried that marriage


The waves are from your uneven wall. The focus issue could be partially be due to the same thing.


----------



## tnaik4

Pairing the T1 with a good DTM produce insanely good image.
This is with MadVR, camera adding a little red for some reason which i cant remove.

This is on 135inch 16:9 regular white 1.1 gain screen.


----------



## ProFragger

Grazed said:


> That particular shot was with the Vertex2 in the chain and using LLDV but it looks pretty much the same if it was the T1 doing the processing but in HDR. However, when the T1 doing is the native DV processing the scene looks pretty similar to the shot I took in SDR.
> 
> The Vertex2 can’t do anything to fix the red push at least on my unit but brightness and scene detail you can affect up to a certain extent. The image of Gravity was with the most I get out of my unit as far as the black level and shadow detail.


Thanks again! And what is your nits setting for the DV/LLDV content on the Vertex2? 

This somewhat confirms my suspicion that I used to complain to @m0j0 about... I don't think the HDFury devices are able to change the picture much on the Chinese T1... But then again... What do I know? My eyes aren't as great as you guys! 

Thank you again for all of these contributions!


----------



## rjyap

Based on HDFury product description, I don't think it is a full blown video processor able to do DTM or even manipulating the colorspace in CMS or 3D LUT. I believe it only able to upscale 1080p to 4k and edit EDID info to spoof the projector and expose certain functionality that is not supported.


----------



## DeOxidizer

m0j0 said:


> If you can't connect to wifi nor ethernet, it could be a problem on the board. Have you tried a factory reset already?


Thank you very much for all your help. Finally I managed to connect using a mobile hotspot on my wife's phone.
It is wierd, but after this initial connection all network connection are working.

Last question (hopefully): How can I set the clock?


----------



## Dave Harper

tnaik4 said:


> Pairing the T1 with a good DTM produce insanely good image.
> This is with MadVR, camera adding a little red for some reason which i cant remove.
> 
> This is on 135inch 16:9 regular white 1.1 gain screen.


I’m getting similar results using the International Version with my HDFury settings. I posted them in the other thread. 

These are capable of unreal performance, but they’re very finicky. 



rjyap said:


> Based on HDFury product description, I don't think it is a full blown video processor able to do DTM or even manipulating the colorspace in CMS or 3D LUT. I believe it only able to upscale 1080p to 4k and edit EDID info to spoof the projector and expose certain functionality that is not supported.


Yes it relies on what your source and its DV processing engine can provide based on the parameters you set in the HDFury.


----------



## Deanodxb

NicoDXB said:


> Thanks M0j0,
> 
> Still a bit in doubt, but looking at the overall cost I think I will stick with the Chinese version of the T1.
> I am ok with SDR - I am not a picture fanatic, and I would assume that some of the HDR issues will be solved in the future - All of my streaming is done on my apple TV and worst case I will get myself and HDFury and plug between- will still be cheaper then upgrading to global
> Actually for me I want to keep the projector as dumb as possible - May even not connect it to the internet unless for updates.
> 
> If you could comment on a few small questions:
> 
> CEC works as expected (It is an old standard after-all)
> Does the motion compensation work well - Probably my primary reason to upgrade over the Xiomi 4K, which let me down a bit here.
> Is the fans loud or is the less then 28db realistic
> 
> I also expect that most of the issues identified will be handled by future software upgrades - Fengmi is afterall one of the largest projector suppliers in the world and the T1 is their flagship product for the chinese market, which is the biggest in the world.
> 
> Nicolai



Just wanted to bounce back in to this thread to say:


Everyone wants to chase perfection, but there are many personal variables (your own eyesight, screen type, screen gain, ambient lighting - perhaps even the age/usage of the T1) that will affect the results of this projector from case to case.
I don't have a Vertex or any type of processor in the chain, just the T1 and ATV4K. I landed on a pretty good setting based on some user customisations posted here, and then just tweaked to find the best image I could for my eyes and my set up. I keep this standard for all content and don't feel the need to constantly adjust the settings. In my experience the T1 is more than capable of looking gorgeous out of the box (i'm sure to 99% of viewers). If you're not in the 1% of 'enthusiasts' then I think you'll be fine with the Chinese version.
I don't see any HDR issues with the T1. BOSCH in HDR is just amazing to my eyes.
I keep motion compensation turned off. Far more realistic images.
Fans will remain quiet even on the brightest viewing setting so long as the unit has enough air to circulate from each side. If the unit is in a cabinet, the fans will spin up higher and louder.


----------



## ProFragger

Dave Harper said:


> I’m getting similar results using the International Version with my HDFury settings. I posted them in the other thread.
> 
> These are capable of unreal performance, but they’re very finicky.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes it relies on what your source and its DV processing engine can provide based on the parameters you set in the HDFury.


Share the wealth in here as well @Dave Harper 😊!


----------



## DeOxidizer

According to Fengmi representative one ca not set the clock.


----------



## Grazed

ProFragger said:


> Thanks again! And what is your nits setting for the DV/LLDV content on the Vertex2?


Max 1000 nits and Min 0 nits.



Deanodxb said:


> Everyone wants to chase perfection, but there are many personal variables (your own eyesight, screen type, screen gain, ambient lighting - perhaps even the age/usage of the T1) that will affect the results of this projector from case to case.
> I don't have a Vertex or any type of processor in the chain, just the T1 and ATV4K. I landed on a pretty good setting based on some user customisations posted here, and then just tweaked to find the best image I could for my eyes and my set up. I keep this standard for all content and don't feel the need to constantly adjust the settings. In my experience the T1 is more than capable of looking gorgeous out of the box (i'm sure to 99% of viewers). If you're not in the 1% of 'enthusiasts' then I think you'll be fine with the Chinese version.
> I don't see any HDR issues with the T1. BOSCH in HDR is just amazing to my eyes.


It is not about chasing perfection at least in my case. Once I get settings to my liking I'm a set it and forget it type of guy. The issue with the chinese T1 is after watching content for a few months I kept noticing certain content will have this obvious red push on skin tones. It's not in all content and I can confirm I do not see the issue on the few scenes of Bosch I browsed through but I know for a fact _The Tomorrow War_ has the issue for example if we are talking about Prime Video content specifically.

I am not an enthusiast by any means when it comes to video. I don't even have a colorimeter and I do not calibrate any of my displays past the simple contrast/ brightness/sharpness optimizations. Since we have similar setups I want you to test using SDR on your ATV4K for a few days and then switch it back to HDR and watch some HDR10 content (not DV since the red push doesn't happen on DV unless you use an HDFury and use LLDV) you will notice how the reds are pushed and there is nothing you can do to tone it down. My friends and family even noticed it on occasion when you have scenes look like the guy is wearing red lipstick due to the red push. On the international T1 there is a specific flesh tone slider you can adjust along with a plethora of other options to dial in the picture.

Now if you are only going to stream content and do not have any physical media then by all means just run SDR on the chinese T1 and you will be extremely happy with the results but if you have some UHD blurays that only have HDR10 and no DV then you will be out of luck as far as avoiding the red push in skin tones. You can use the standard 1080p bluray so you can play it back in SDR instead of HDR but then you lose other things like Atmos for the majority of movies if you care about that.


----------



## Dave Harper

ProFragger said:


> Share the wealth in here as well @Dave Harper !


There’s no reason to do so and clog up this thread since you can’t achieve the same thing with this model because it doesn’t have the same calibration controls built in. 

It’s very easy to find the other thread if you want to see what’s possible.


----------



## rjyap

Grazed said:


> Max 1000 nits and Min 0 nits.
> 
> 
> 
> It is not about chasing perfection at least in my case. Once I get settings to my liking I'm a set it and forget it type of guy. The issue with the chinese T1 is after watching content for a few months I kept noticing certain content will have this obvious red push on skin tones. It's not in all content and I can confirm I do not see the issue on the few scenes of Bosch I browsed through but I know for a fact _The Tomorrow War_ has the issue for example if we are talking about Prime Video content specifically.
> 
> I am not an enthusiast by any means when it comes to video. I don't even have a colorimeter and I do not calibrate any of my displays past the simple contrast/ brightness/sharpness optimizations. Since we have similar setups I want you to test using SDR on your ATV4K for a few days and then switch it back to HDR and watch some HDR10 content (not DV since the red push doesn't happen on DV unless you use an HDFury and use LLDV) you will notice how the reds are pushed and there is nothing you can do to tone it down. My friends and family even noticed it on occasion when you have scenes look like the guy is wearing red lipstick due to the red push. On the international T1 there is a specific flesh tone slider you can adjust along with a plethora of other options to dial in the picture.
> 
> Now if you are only going to stream content and do not have any physical media then by all means just run SDR on the chinese T1 and you will be extremely happy with the results but if you have some UHD blurays that only have HDR10 and no DV then you will be out of luck as far as avoiding the red push in skin tones. You can use the standard 1080p bluray so you can play it back in SDR instead of HDR but then you lose other things like Atmos for the majority of movies if you care about that.


ON topic of red push using UHD bluray, you can eliminate the red push 2 ways. First, you can use PC playback and use MadVR to tone map from HDR to SDR. Wouldn't lose the benefit of wide color gamut as Fengmi T1 SDR still output in the same colorspace as HDR. Second way is to lower saturation. It does reduce the color and look less pop but my observation is it will look more like bluray SDR BT 709 movie.


----------



## Grazed

rjyap said:


> ON topic of red push using UHD bluray, you can eliminate the red push 2 ways. First, you can use PC playback and use MadVR to tone map from HDR to SDR. Wouldn't lose the benefit of wide color gamut as Fengmi T1 SDR still output in the same colorspace as HDR. Second way is to lower saturation. It does reduce the color and look less pop but my observation is it will look more like bluray SDR BT 709 movie.


HTPC MadVR doesn’t work on multiple different sources so it isn’t an option for me and I have no desire to buy the MadVR Envy to be able to do so.

Lowering the saturation doesn’t change the baseline imbalance of the reds so it will still be pushed but everything will just be less saturated overall and it unfortunately does not look the same as SDR in the slightest on my unit.


----------



## ProFragger

DeOxidizer said:


> According to Fengmi representative one ca not set the clock.


Yes, nor the display format... I'm stuck in Military time 😅!


----------



## ProFragger

Dave Harper said:


> There’s no reason to do so and clog up this thread since you can’t achieve the same thing with this model because it doesn’t have the same calibration controls built in.
> 
> It’s very easy to find the other thread if you want to see what’s possible.


Fair enough, I forgot they were exclusive to the "International" version 😅...


----------



## ProFragger

Grazed said:


> HTPC MadVR doesn’t work on multiple different sources so it isn’t an option for me and I have no desire to buy the MadVR Envy to be able to do so.
> 
> Lowering the saturation doesn’t change the baseline imbalance of the reds so it will still be pushed but everything will just be less saturated overall and it unfortunately does not look the same as SDR in the slightest on my unit.


Forgive me if you've tried and I missed... But using a colorimeter or something, other than saturation, can we not drop the Red down to a point where it's balanced in LLDV and HDR content? 

Outside of this... I think all of us Chinese T1 owners should at least report these bugs to the [email protected] email address? 

Thanks.


----------



## tnaik4

ProFragger said:


> Forgive me if you've tried and I missed... But using a colorimeter or something, other than saturation, can we not drop the Red down to a point where it's balanced in LLDV and HDR content?
> 
> Outside of this... I think all of us Chinese T1 owners should at least report these bugs to the [email protected] email address?
> 
> Thanks.


If all of us send them emails asking to add a cms/full grey scal settings, they might consider it.
Its not hard to do so, they just decided not to put them in so the international version has something this doesnt to justify the higher price.


----------



## Deanodxb

Grazed said:


> Max 1000 nits and Min 0 nits.
> 
> 
> 
> It is not about chasing perfection at least in my case. Once I get settings to my liking I'm a set it and forget it type of guy. The issue with the chinese T1 is after watching content for a few months I kept noticing certain content will have this obvious red push on skin tones. It's not in all content and I can confirm I do not see the issue on the few scenes of Bosch I browsed through but I know for a fact _The Tomorrow War_ has the issue for example if we are talking about Prime Video content specifically.
> 
> I am not an enthusiast by any means when it comes to video. I don't even have a colorimeter and I do not calibrate any of my displays past the simple contrast/ brightness/sharpness optimizations. Since we have similar setups I want you to test using SDR on your ATV4K for a few days and then switch it back to HDR and watch some HDR10 content (not DV since the red push doesn't happen on DV unless you use an HDFury and use LLDV) you will notice how the reds are pushed and there is nothing you can do to tone it down. My friends and family even noticed it on occasion when you have scenes look like the guy is wearing red lipstick due to the red push. On the international T1 there is a specific flesh tone slider you can adjust along with a plethora of other options to dial in the picture.
> 
> Now if you are only going to stream content and do not have any physical media then by all means just run SDR on the chinese T1 and you will be extremely happy with the results but if you have some UHD blurays that only have HDR10 and no DV then you will be out of luck as far as avoiding the red push in skin tones. You can use the standard 1080p bluray so you can play it back in SDR instead of HDR but then you lose other things like Atmos for the majority of movies if you care about that.


Yep - like you say I have seen this on examples of actors' lips and also traffic light scenes. This is only occasionally and not all content. I haven't noticed it on caucasion skin tones, even normal TV news, dramas etc. Heavy red content, such as the Netflix loading screen, renders red on the T1 as naturally as it did with my OLED. 

Can anyone confirm that the red push is totally eliminated with the flesh tone slider on the international version? And is that slider a set and forget option or are users still adjusting the slider when playing different content?

I no longer use physical media. Everything is either run from my server to Infuse or streamed/IPTV. Most of my server content is 4K HDR and HDR10. I have some DV content but I honestly don't see much improvement from a DV version over an HDR version. For what its worth my set and forget settings are:

Brightness Mode - View Mode
Brightness - 51
Contrast - 57
Saturation - 47
Sharpness - 45
Tone - 53
Red Gain - 978
Green Gain - 1015
Blue Gain - 952
Dynamic Contrast - off

I have an XY ALR screen which is rated at 0.6 gain.

I'll lock the ATV at SDR with the above settings and watch for a few days and report back.


----------



## JereyWolf

Deanodxb said:


> For what its worth my set and forget settings are:
> 
> Brightness Mode - View Mode
> Brightness - 51
> Contrast - 57
> Saturation - 47
> Sharpness - 45
> Tone - 53
> Red Gain - 978
> Green Gain - 1015
> Blue Gain - 952
> Dynamic Contrast - off
> 
> I have an XY ALR screen which is rated at 0.6 gain.
> 
> I'll lock the ATV at SDR with the above settings and watch for a few days and report back.


Just a question because I'm curious...did you end on those brightness and contrast settings after using test patterns or just using normal content to adjust to your preference?

I'm wondering because my brightness is set to 46 and same for contrast. I landed on those while viewing black and white clipping patterns...and my screen is rated as a 0.4 gain.


----------



## rjyap

My HDR setting is Brightness 49 and Contrast 60. I'm using test pattern with greyscale and color gradient for 1000 nits.


----------



## Deanodxb

JereyWolf said:


> Just a question because I'm curious...did you end on those brightness and contrast settings after using test patterns or just using normal content to adjust to your preference?
> 
> I'm wondering because my brightness is set to 46 and same for contrast. I landed on those while viewing black and white clipping patterns...and my screen is rated as a 0.4 gain.


A mixture of content, movies, TV and test patterns. This was over the course of around 3 weeks. I ran through quite a few "dark" movies (like Tim Burton stuff) to find a setting which I liked. The numbers might seem high but on my screen it does not blow out the detail. I found lower numbers, especially on contrast, crushed all the blacks and greys together. I watched Sleepy Hollow recently as a test and it looked really good. The T1 pulls about 300w from the wall though with View Mode!


----------



## m0j0

Here's a few pics from last night (some from the Nvidia Shield and some from the Zidoo Z9X):


----------



## Grazed

ProFragger said:


> Forgive me if you've tried and I missed... But using a colorimeter or something, other than saturation, can we not drop the Red down to a point where it's balanced in LLDV and HDR content?


I haven't personally tried with a colorimeter but I have tried adjusting the RGB gain using the FengOS color temp adjustments and have messed around a bit with the Projectivy settings to try and dial it in but I could not. I know others have used colorimeters and some of them ultimately just ended up using SDR as well since it is just looks significantly better and the image overall is brighter. 



ProFragger said:


> Outside of this... I think all of us Chinese T1 owners should at least report these bugs to the [email protected] email address?


This issue has been around since release and used to be an issue while using the native DV but they eventually fixed it in that mode but still haven't fixed it for HDR10. It has been reported multiple times already to support, same with the HDMI handshake issue.



Deanodxb said:


> I'll lock the ATV at SDR with the above settings and watch for a few days and report back.


Just make sure to select RBG High under HDMI Output on the ATV4K when you choose SDR. It defaults to the YUV and the colors are way off.


----------



## JereyWolf

rjyap said:


> My HDR setting is Brightness 49 and Contrast 60. I'm using test pattern with greyscale and color gradient for 1000 nits.


What about SDR contrast?


----------



## donw

Deanodxb said:


> Yep - like you say I have seen this on examples of actors' lips and also traffic light scenes. This is only occasionally and not all content. I haven't noticed it on caucasion skin tones, even normal TV news, dramas etc. Heavy red content, such as the Netflix loading screen, renders red on the T1 as naturally as it did with my OLED.
> 
> Can anyone confirm that the red push is totally eliminated with the flesh tone slider on the international version? And is that slider a set and forget option or are users still adjusting the slider when playing different content?
> 
> I no longer use physical media. Everything is either run from my server to Infuse or streamed/IPTV. Most of my server content is 4K HDR and HDR10. I have some DV content but I honestly don't see much improvement from a DV version over an HDR version. For what its worth my set and forget settings are:
> 
> Brightness Mode - View Mode
> Brightness - 51
> Contrast - 57
> Saturation - 47
> Sharpness - 45
> Tone - 53
> Red Gain - 978
> Green Gain - 1015
> Blue Gain - 952
> Dynamic Contrast - off
> 
> I have an XY ALR screen which is rated at 0.6 gain.
> 
> I'll lock the ATV at SDR with the above settings and watch for a few days and report back.


I turned my saturation down to 40, and lips are not near as bright. Could probably bring it down a little more.


----------



## tnaik4

JereyWolf said:


> Just a question because I'm curious...did you end on those brightness and contrast settings after using test patterns or just using normal content to adjust to your preference?
> 
> I'm wondering because my brightness is set to 46 and same for contrast. I landed on those while viewing black and white clipping patterns...and my screen is rated as a 0.4 gain.


If u change rgb offset than ull need to change the brightness/contrast , my brightness is at 56 and contrast at 49, using test patterns, also screen type affect these.


----------



## JereyWolf

tnaik4 said:


> If u change rgb offset than ull need to change the brightness/contrast , my brightness is at 56 and contrast at 49, using test patterns, also screen type affect these.


Yeah, I always start with brightness and contrast using clipping patterns, then make RGB adjustments, then go back to brightness and contrast and repeat that cycle until everything is correct. 

My brightness setting of 46 is exactly where it needs to be for a black clipping pattern..and going any higher noticeably raised the black floor, while going lower makes no visible difference to the black floor.


----------



## rjyap

JereyWolf said:


> What about SDR contrast?


SDR at 50 brightness and 50 contrast. But depends on the movie. Some movies are known to have elevated black level such as Ender's Game. It's pretty obvious when you look at the credit scene where you can see elevated black levels. Just set the brightness to 47-48 will fix that problem.


----------



## ProFragger

tnaik4 said:


> If all of us send them emails asking to add a cms/full grey scal settings, they might consider it.
> Its not hard to do so, they just decided not to put them in so the international version has something this doesnt to justify the higher price.


We can and should keep trying man, but I doubt they'd add the CMS as they'll likely reap the benefits of it as a "feature" in the International model... Just my thoughts 😊. 

If you ask them, they also give you a company line about the hardware being different 🤷🏽!


----------



## tnaik4

ProFragger said:


> We can and should keep trying man, but I doubt they'd add the CMS as they'll likely reap the benefits of it as a "feature" in the International model... Just my thoughts 😊.
> 
> If you ask them, they also give you a company line about the hardware being different 🤷🏽!


Hahah hardware on the chinese T1 is actually better lol.
But anyway for the price i got my T1 i m not complaining, because its not expensive i got it as a stop gap until more improvements are made with these USTs.


----------



## Sonny Red

tnaik4 said:


> Hahah hardware on the chinese T1 is actually better lol.
> But anyway for the price i got my T1 i m not complaining, because its not expensive i got it as a stop gap until more improvements are made with these USTs.


What do you mean by « the hardware on the Chinese T1 is better » ?


----------



## goropes

I'm considering upgrading my old Panasonic PT-AT6000E projector to something newer.

Can anyone briefly summarize the comparison Fengmi Formovie T1 against the JVC X500/X5000, or Sony VW290/590ES or similar projectors?

I was originally going to buy one of these high end projectors (used, at a second hand price) but I discovered the Formovie T1, I'm wondering if it will give me a better quality image and better value for money.


----------



## tnaik4

Sonny Red said:


> What do you mean by « the hardware on the Chinese T1 is better » ?


It has faster cpu/ram if im not mistaken, everything else is similar, so no excuse at all not to have all the extra settings the global one has.


----------



## m0j0

goropes said:


> I'm considering upgrading my old Panasonic PT-AT6000E projector to something newer.
> 
> Can anyone briefly summarize the comparison Fengmi Formovie T1 against the JVC X500/X5000, or Sony VW290/590ES or similar projectors?
> 
> I was originally going to buy one of these high end projectors (used, at a second hand price) but I discovered the Formovie T1, I'm wondering if it will give me a better quality image and better value for money.


The most compelling reasons to go with a UST projector like the T1, in my opinion, are:
1. Easy to setup, no running wires through the ceiling or to the back of the room and dealing with mounts, etc.
2. No need to worry about throw distances, as you can place it close to front of room and still get up to 150" size image
3. Triple laser is going to last a long time and you don't have to deal with bulb replacement concerns or bulb dimming

The T1 throws an excellent picture and has great contrast and black levels and amazing colors for a UST. Even so, it doesn't have black levels comparable to a JVC nor contrast comparable to a JVC or Sony. But, you can pick up a T1 for less money and it will give you a very comparable experience. I have a Sony 695 ES and it's very close with the image I get. The Sony has better blacks/contrast but the T1 has better colors and sharpness.


----------



## Dave Harper

Grazed said:


> *HTPC MadVR doesn’t work on multiple different sources* so it isn’t an option for me and I have no desire to buy the MadVR Envy to be able to do so.
> 
> Lowering the saturation doesn’t change the baseline imbalance of the reds so it will still be pushed but everything will just be less saturated overall and it unfortunately does not look the same as SDR in the slightest on my unit.


You can turn your madVR HTPC into a pseudo Envy with multiple HDMI input for external sources by adding a BlackMagic DeckLink HDMI capture card and installing a software called “VideoProcessor”. 



ProFragger said:


> We can and should keep trying man, but I doubt they'd add the CMS as they'll likely reap the benefits of it as a "feature" in the International model... Just my thoughts .
> 
> If you ask them, they also give you a company line about the hardware being different !





tnaik4 said:


> It has faster cpu/ram if im not mistaken, everything else is similar, so no excuse at all not to have all the extra settings the global one has.


The reason they can’t do it is because they run a custom OS called FengOS on the China version. For CMS controls you need AndroidTV, like the International version and other projectors. I think I heard you have to pay to unlock CMS in your AndroidTV software during engineering. 

They’d have to completely rewrite the OS from what I’ve heard.


----------



## ProFragger

tnaik4 said:


> Hahah hardware on the chinese T1 is actually better lol.
> But anyway for the price i got my T1 i m not complaining, because its not expensive i got it as a stop gap until more improvements are made with these USTs.


Yeah, I know bud, that's why I chose the Chinese version 😊... I was just repeating what they tell you 😬... It could be the software too... FengOS is based off of Android, but isn't Android TV like the International version is... So maybe a lot is missing from the FengOS? Perhaps they can integrate the Mediatek CMS into FengOS, but I really don't think they have the motivation to do this... 

Much like you, I got an amazing price on my Chinese T1 and also the Vertex2. Hard to shell out an extra ~$1000 for reducing some red... 😅 So... I can't justify it either.


----------



## Willie

Just picked up the Chinese T1; using it with a Vertex 2 and MadVR software is excellent; Yeah, the blacks are clearly not in the same category as my JVC, but they are good enough for what I use it for; which is everything but scope aspect movies.

Very happy with this purchase.

Willie


----------



## rjyap

Willie said:


> Just picked up the Chinese T1; using it with a Vertex 2 and MadVR software is excellent; Yeah, the blacks are clearly not in the same category as my JVC, but they are good enough for what I use it for; which is everything but scope aspect movies.
> 
> Very happy with this purchase.
> 
> Willie


would love to hear your opinion on mid to high APL scene compare to JVC. I feel those colorful high contrast scene would be T1 strength. Low APL scene such as Batman would be T1 Achilles heel.


----------



## zaselim

Hey guys, so I have been using Fire stick 4k max (finally got it a week ago) for a week now and like most of you here I also turned off HDR(Dolby Vision) but still using 12bit colors. My issue with it was not with colors, they look fine to me but that black contrast looked bad and the detail sharpness was also weak compared what i get with my PC or my console. And now with HDR turned off the detail looks exactly the same as my content on PC even better than My TV's Netflix/Prime apps. Even though my TV has HDR10+ on, the colors with content on Firestick(with T1) look way better than on my TV (Netflix/Prime) not to mention more bright with dynamic contrast on (on T1).
I also noticed that in firestick dolby settings preview when i switched to dark(in advance on T1) the blacks became better than in Bright but in actual content nothing happened when shifting form bright to dark or dark to bright.
I also noticed that with Atmos on in audio source i was getting less bass from the woofer and the overall audio didn't sound great to me like it does on my PC and after switching to PCM I got back the bass level i get on my PC, so I turned both Dolby Vision and Atmos off. I am still getting proper 7.1 sound like i do on my PC but way better than with Atmos on. I think it might be because I don't have atmos (the ones you setup above you) speakers setup and only 7.1 setup. But i am super happy with both Dolby Vison and atmos off as i am getting better pictures(even more punchy and vibrant colors than my Samsung 4k HDR10+TV) and sound quality.

So far i have watched, and did side by side comparison with my TV Netflix/Prime apps and with my PC playing Blu Rays, The Adams Project, The terminal(series), The Gray Man, Stranger Things, There's someone inside your house, Jack Reacher (Series) and my rating is right now.
1. PC - T1 (windows 10 with custom colors settings Desktop colors depth 32-bit, Output Colors Depth 12bit, Output Color Format ycbcr 422).
2. PC - TV(HDR10+ on but off in windows 10 and using same settings as above) in TV, Fire Stick - T1 with streaming apps(HDR off).
3. Tv (HDR10+ on) with Streaming apps.
4. FireStick (HDR On) - T1.
Even though I turned off the HDR from my windows display settings and using custom colors setting from NV panel but I setup my TV to show HDR colors manually in Color Depth Space so it shows the colors as HDR suppose to. The HDR option in windows 10 is bad.


----------



## rjyap

zaselim said:


> Hey guys, so I have been using Fire stick 4k max (finally got it a week ago) for a week now and like most of you here I also turned off HDR(Dolby Vision) but still using 12bit colors. My issue with it was not with colors, they look fine to me but that black contrast looked bad and the detail sharpness was also weak compared what i get with my PC or my console. And now with HDR turned off the detail looks exactly the same as my content on PC even better than My TV's Netflix/Prime apps. Even though my TV has HDR10+ on, the colors with content on Firestick(with T1) look way better than on my TV (Netflix/Prime) not to mention more bright with dynamic contrast on (on T1).
> I also noticed that in firestick dolby settings preview when i switched to dark(in advance on T1) the blacks became better than in Bright but in actual content nothing happened when shifting form bright to dark or dark to bright.
> I also noticed that with Atmos on in audio source i was getting less bass from the woofer and the overall audio didn't sound great to me like it does on my PC and after switching to PCM I got back the bass level i get on my PC, so I turned both Dolby Vision and Atmos off. I am still getting proper 7.1 sound like i do on my PC but way better than with Atmos on. I think it might be because I don't have atmos (the ones you setup above you) speakers setup and only 7.1 setup. But i am super happy with both Dolby Vison and atmos off as i am getting better pictures(even more punchy and vibrant colors than my Samsung 4k HDR10+TV) and sound quality.
> 
> So far i have watched, and did side by side comparison with my TV Netflix/Prime apps and with my PC playing Blu Rays, The Adams Project, The terminal(series), The Gray Man, Stranger Things, There's someone inside your house, Jack Reacher (Series) and my rating is right now.
> 1. PC - T1 (windows 10 with custom colors settings Desktop colors depth 32-bit, Output Colors Depth 12bit, Output Color Format ycbcr 422).
> 2. PC - TV(HDR10+ on but off in windows 10 and using same settings as above) in TV, Fire Stick - T1 with streaming apps(HDR off).
> 3. Tv with Streaming apps.
> Even though I turned off the HDR from my windows display settings but I setup my TV to show HDR colors manually in Color Depth Space so it shows the colors as HDR suppose. The HDR settings in windows 10 is bad.


Just a comment on PC output it's preferable to output at RGB 444 or YCbCr 444. 422 is consider compress with full brightness info but color at half the resolution. Personally I prefer RGB 444 Output Dynamic Range Full to avoid double colorspace conversion. PC apps and games always render in RGB.


----------



## zaselim

rjyap said:


> Just a comment on PC output it's preferable to output at RGB 444 or YCbCr 444. 422 is consider compress with full brightness info but color at half the resolution. Personally I prefer RGB 444 Output Dynamic Range Full to avoid double colorspace conversion. PC apps and games always render in RGB.


Ah, right. But wouldn't it will go back to 8 bit with selecting RGB?


----------



## rjyap

zaselim said:


> Ah, right. But wouldn't it will go back to 8 bit with selecting RGB?


Yes. But don't worry on 8 bit output as 8 bit color dithering actually as good as 12 bit. Plus T1 always output in Wide Color Gamut so you get deep color in SDR mode. Think of it as outputting in SDR Rec 2020 format. Or you can switch to RGB HDR mode. 422 is slightly blurry compare to 444.

Also possible to output RGB 444 10bit if you manually put your desktop in HDR mode using Windows 10 display settings. I'm using RTX 3080 which support this option.


----------



## zaselim

rjyap said:


> Yes. But don't worry on 8 bit output as 8 bit color dithering actually as good as 12 bit. Plus T1 always output in Wide Color Gamut so you get deep color in SDR mode. Think of it as outputting in SDR Rec 2020 format. Or you can switch to RGB HDR mode. 422 is slightly blurry compare to 444.
> 
> Also possible to output RGB 444 10bit if you manually put your desktop in HDR mode using Windows 10 display settings. I'm using RTX 3080 which support this option.


I actually i did it for my TV before i got the T1 because i was getting less detailed image when HDR On in windows display settings so it turned it Off and selected the custom color space settings.
What is RGB HDR mode and how to turn it on? or is it the same one it turned off in windows 10's display settings?


----------



## lattiboy

Was going to pop in and say that my Apple TV 4K (2nd gen) running in SDR is pretty great. No HDMI issues (for a month now), no worrying about switching modes, no DV darkness, no HDFury fussing.

Color is still very good, if not quite as eye popping as DV or HDR, but tone mapping is great and I literally never touch the image or brightness modes.
View brightness with a pretty standard custom profile, dynamic contrast off, and @m0j0 RGB color settings. 

Anyway, if you want to stop stressing out about everything, this is really the way to go. HDR and DV content are mapped quite well by the ATV4K.


----------



## rjyap

zaselim said:


> I actually i did it for my TV before i got the T1 because i was getting less detailed image when HDR On in windows display settings so it turned it Off and selected the custom color space settings.
> What is RGB HDR mode and how to turn it on? or is it the same one it turned off in windows 10's display settings?


There's 2 ways to turn on RGB HDR mode. One is from the player (madVR) which will output in RGB 8bit HDR. But if you switch on HDR mode in the desktop, it will output NV HDR 10bit in madVR. From my test, I can't see a difference between 8bit vs 10bit HDR output. Anyway, currently I prefer SDR output as it's better for MadVR tonemapping to a known colorspace and gamma compare to HDR which you will get double tonemapping due to HDR processing in the projector which we have no control.

As lattiboy mention, using SDR mode would be easier and no longer need to keep switching the settings between HDR and SDR.


----------



## zaselim

rjyap said:


> There's 2 ways to turn on RGB HDR mode. One is from the player (madVR) which will output in RGB 8bit HDR. But if you switch on HDR mode in the desktop, it will output NV HDR 10bit in madVR. From my test, I can't see a difference between 8bit vs 10bit HDR output. Anyway, currently I prefer SDR output as it's better for MadVR tonemapping to a known colorspace and gamma compare to HDR which you will get double tonemapping due to HDR processing in the projector which we have no control.


Right, I am also using MadVR with MPC but that is only helps for media content right when MPC. I will try it with RGB then.


----------



## rjyap

zaselim said:


> Right, I am also using MadVR with MPC but that is only helps for media content right when MPC. I will try it with RGB then.


Yep. Only offline media. Make sure to use FULL dynamic range in your playback pipeline. Not sure which player you use, but the idea is desktop settings, player settings and madVR settings to PC levels (not Video levels which is 16-235). YCbCr is always video level. If it's not set properly, you will either get elevated black/reduce white or crush black/overblown white) in summary will look like s**t!


----------



## zaselim

rjyap said:


> Yep. Only offline media. Make sure to use FULL dynamic range in your playback pipeline. Not sure which player you use, but the idea is desktop settings, player settings and madVR settings to PC levels (not Video levels which is 16-235). YCbCr is always video level. If it's not set properly, you will either get elevated black/reduce white or crush black/overblown white) in summary will look like s**t!


I use MPC and Pot Player, but MPC mostly. So i set full dynamic range in MadVR settings or MPC settings? If you are not talking about output dynamic range in NV Panel colors settings.


----------



## rjyap

All the settings as mention above. If you are using LAV Video filters, remember to set it to FULL too (0-255). You want the whole pipeline to process the video in RGB Full Range.


----------



## MrGrimble

So if I understand correctly, the name of the game is “which projector will look best with hdfury”, right? So if I have a budget of 3k the options are going with the T1 (or the international version) or trying a long throw like the 5050ub?
Do you recommend on looking for any other combos at that price?


----------



## Notrial

lattiboy said:


> Was going to pop in and say that my Apple TV 4K (2nd gen) running in SDR is pretty great. No HDMI issues (for a month now), no worrying about switching modes, no DV darkness, no HDFury fussing.
> 
> Color is still very good, if not quite as eye popping as DV or HDR, but tone mapping is great and I literally never touch the image or brightness modes.
> View brightness with a pretty standard custom profile, dynamic contrast off, and @m0j0 RGB color settings.
> 
> Anyway, if you want to stop stressing out about everything, this is really the way to go. HDR and DV content are mapped quite well by the ATV4K.


What would be the best course of action if you would want to split HDMI output from Apple TV? I plan to have it connected to both TV and T1. I would prefer to keep DV for TV though 
I assume the only way would be to enable/disable DV on AppleTV before switching on TV/T1?


----------



## m0j0

MrGrimble said:


> So if I understand correctly, the name of the game is “which projector will look best with hdfury”, right? So if I have a budget of 3k the options are going with the T1 (or the international version) or trying a long throw like the 5050ub?
> Do you recommend on looking for any other combos at that price?


The T1 would be a better option than the 5050 in my opinion. If you're looking at long throw, maybe a used JVC or Sony would be a better comparison, but those won't likely be under 3k.


----------



## m0j0

Pics from last night


----------



## zaselim

rjyap said:


> All the settings as mention above. If you are using LAV Video filters, remember to set it to FULL too (0-255). You want the whole pipeline to process the video in RGB Full Range.


Yes i am using LAV filters.
So I did like you suggested, rgb, full range, 8bit, what happened was a slight increase in both white(more bright) and black(more darker) levels but because of that i also lost detail in dark scenes (crushed black i believe is the term) (I haven't check the detail in bright scenes but I'm assuming it will be the same with it as well). For example, In Avengers (2012) movie, in a scene when Black Widow is letting Russians interrogate her so she can get the information out of them. She's wearing a black dress but on her chest area you can see a double fabric layer with front has a wrinkle like shape in less black than the under piece which is fully dark black. Before i was seeing it perfectly but after setting up at RGB, Full Range, 8 bit, i can't that and only see that she is wearing something black (single layer) and not a single detail. I also didn't notice any difference in Sharpness(Detail aka clarity). Then i adjusted the contrast and brightness a bit (Brightness 50 to 55 and contrast 50 to 55) in NV Panel's adjust video color settings>color> which made those details come back, and in adjust video colors settings>advanced dynamic range was limited and when i set it to full then detail went away again and i was again only seeing just a single layered back something she is wearing.
So I think my options are:
1. Either go back to: 422, 12bit, limited
2. Or, set RGB, 8 bit Full range and set NV Panel's adjust video color settings>color>(Brightness 50 to 55 and contrast 50 to 55) and in Advanced>Dynamic range limited.
By the way, this is on my Samsung 4k HDR10+ Smart TV, I haven't checked the settings on T1 yet, the contrast on my TV is already set to 100 and brightness has only 0 to 5 or 0 to -5 points and increasing it doesn't help.
I will check the T1 tomorrow and see how it looks on it.


----------



## JackB

m0j0 said:


> Pics from last night


Are those with or without HFfury?


----------



## m0j0

JackB said:


> Are those with or without HFfury?


Without. Some pics from Nvidia Shield in SDR and some from Zidoo Z9X (custom SDR edid with vs10 engine).


----------



## rjyap

zaselim said:


> Yes i am using LAV filters.
> So I did like you suggested, rgb, full range, 8bit, what happened was a slight increase in both white(more bright) and black(more darker) levels but because of that i also lost detail in dark scenes (crushed black i believe is the term) (I haven't check the detail in bright scenes but I'm assuming it will be the same with it as well). For example, In Avengers (2012) movie, in a scene when Black Widow is letting Russians interrogate her so she can get the information out of them. She's wearing a black dress but on her chest area you can see a double fabric layer with front has a wrinkle like shape in less black than the under piece which is fully dark black. Before i was seeing it perfectly but after setting up at RGB, Full Range, 8 bit, i can't that and only see that she is wearing something black (single layer) and not a single detail. I also didn't notice any difference in Sharpness(Detail aka clarity). Then i adjusted the contrast and brightness a bit (Brightness 50 to 55 and contrast 50 to 55) in NV Panel's adjust video color settings>color> which made those details come back, and in adjust video colors settings>advanced dynamic range was limited and when i set it to full then detail went away again and i was again only seeing just a single layered back something she is wearing.
> So I think my options are:
> 1. Either go back to: 422, 12bit, limited
> 2. Or, set RGB, 8 bit Full range and set NV Panel's adjust video color settings>color>(Brightness 50 to 55 and contrast 50 to 55) and in Advanced>Dynamic range limited.
> By the way, this is on my Samsung 4k HDR10+ Smart TV, I haven't checked the settings on T1 yet, the contrast on my TV is already set to 100 and brightness has only 0 to 5 or 0 to -5 points and increasing it doesn't help.
> I will check the T1 tomorrow and see how it looks on it.


Do not adjust the NV panel video color settings. My old Panasonic plasma TV doesn't accept RGB Full range and will always clip below 16 and above 235 so my only choice is limited. My suggestion is to use Black Clipping and White Clipping test pattern from MP4-2C to adjust brightness and contrast on your display. On T1, make sure Dynamic Contrast is turn off as it will mess with shadow details.


----------



## Deanodxb

m0j0 said:


> 2. No need to worry about throw distances, as you can place it close to front of room and still get up to 150" size image


Not strictly true. A UST will need a fair bit of space between the wall and the back of the unit to throw a large image. When you factor in the depth of the projector itself you will start looking at very deep media cabinets or custom solutions. The T1 needs 49cm of space from the wall to the back of the unit to throw a 150" image: Formovie Fengmi T1


----------



## m0j0

Deanodxb said:


> Not strictly true. A UST will need a fair bit of space between the wall and the back of the unit to throw a large image. When you factor in the depth of the projector itself you will start looking at very deep media cabinets or custom solutions. The T1 needs 49cm of space from the wall to the back of the unit to throw a 150" image: Formovie Fengmi T1


Well, I did say "close" to the front of the room, so it is "strictly" true in that sense. Of course, you will need to pull it away from the wall a bit if you want a larger screen size.


----------



## RickMes

Hello everyone.

It's been around 10 years since I had a home theater and I am now thinking on purchasing the Formovie Theater so I have been reading its related AVS forums.
Now, for the time being I will set it up on my living room and use my old Beamax 80" white matte screen while I prepare to buy a more suitable one (I think gain is 1.0, but can't really remember).
There's some considerate day light but my shutters will keep most of it out so that's not really an issue for me. However, the projector will replace my TV (no space for both) and there are a few questions that I couldn't (yet) find some answers. Can someone please help me out? 
So:
1 - Are this projector's optics sealed or well protected against dust? I had problems before with LCD projectors that ended up accumulating dust blobs that were either visible or ended up causing color aberrations on the sides of the projection so I am particularly afraid of this issue. If so, how to best avoid it?
2 - What's the average power consumption of this projector compared to a pretty basic 43" LCD TV?
3 - Since I am replacing my TV, what do you think will be a reasonable hour/day usage?
4 - Could an 80" screen viewed from about 100" be too big, specially for a 4 year old who will have to watch his cartoons on this setup?
5 - My 80" screen is old and not perfecly flat as the sides got a little wavy. I know image won't be perfect, but will it affect the projectors automatic adjustment?

This is my first post in AVSForum and I appreciate whatever small help anyone can give me or point me to a responde on the forums.

Thank you in advance.


(I am also posting this on the "Formovie Theater - Enhanced Global / International Version of the Fengmi T1" forum. Hope it's not against the rules!)


----------



## zaselim

rjyap said:


> Do not adjust the NV panel video color settings. My old Panasonic plasma TV doesn't accept RGB Full range and will always clip below 16 and above 235 so my only choice is limited. My suggestion is to use Black Clipping and White Clipping test pattern from MP4-2C to adjust brightness and contrast on your display. On T1, make sure Dynamic Contrast is turn off as it will mess with shadow details.


Right, Thanks.


----------



## dami1337

RickMes said:


> Hello everyone.
> 
> It's been around 10 years since I had a home theater and I am now thinking on purchasing the Formovie Theater so I have been reading its related AVS forums.
> Now, for the time being I will set it up on my living room and use my old Beamax 80" white matte screen while I prepare to buy a more suitable one (I think gain is 1.0, but can't really remember).
> There's some considerate day light but my shutters will keep most of it out so that's not really an issue for me. However, the projector will replace my TV (no space for both) and there are a few questions that I couldn't (yet) find some answers. Can someone please help me out?
> So:
> 1 - Are this projector's optics sealed or well protected against dust? I had problems before with LCD projectors that ended up accumulating dust blobs that were either visible or ended up causing color aberrations on the sides of the projection so I am particularly afraid of this issue. If so, how to best avoid it?
> 2 - What's the average power consumption of this projector compared to a pretty basic 43" LCD TV?
> 3 - Since I am replacing my TV, what do you think will be a reasonable hour/day usage?
> 4 - Could an 80" screen viewed from about 100" be too big, specially for a 4 year old who will have to watch his cartoons on this setup?
> 5 - My 80" screen is old and not perfecly flat as the sides got a little wavy. I know image won't be perfect, but will it affect the projectors automatic adjustment?
> 
> This is my first post in AVSForum and I appreciate whatever small help anyone can give me or point me to a responde on the forums.
> 
> Thank you in advance.
> 
> 
> (I am also posting this on the "Formovie Theater - Enhanced Global / International Version of the Fengmi T1" forum. Hope it's not against the rules!)


Would strongly recommend to go for international version in general vs chinese version due to red issues.

1. not sealed and dust comes in and at some point needs to be blown etc away since it impacts picture. Easy solution is to put something over it when not in use. 

2. don’t know

3. due to kids mine is on through half the day. Probably same usage as with TV

4. kids don’t care about too big. get maybe beamer first and try out size. there are also some general guidance on the internet for this but in my case 330cm a 100 was too small, 120 too big and 110 perfect. Still sometimes we go on floor in front of couch and it is a non issue. In doubt bigger works and you want the immersion. wife saw 84inch LED in shop and was like nah you are correct it is too small 

5. any wave kills UST. Just put a flashlight from directly below and probably it should show the issue you will face.

Would highly highly recommend ALR screen such as xy pet crystal if any daylight is happening. will post picture to showcase


----------



## dami1337

See here daylight without direct sunlight impact of white wall vs proper screen: Formovie Theater - Enhanced Global / International...


----------



## dami1337

Also this might be helpful how different viewers preferred distance at Linus tech tips video

Also found my comparison notes. We sit 330cm away (afaik around TXH ideal in the picture from viewing angle).

83 LG C1: 185,1 x 106,2 x 5,53 cm

XY Screens ALR PET Crystal Fixed Frame

100: 2237 x 1269
110: 2459 x 1393
120: 2680 x 1518


----------



## RickMes

dami1337 said:


> Would strongly recommend to go for international version in general vs chinese version due to red issues.
> 
> 1. not sealed and dust comes in and at some point needs to be blown etc away since it impacts picture. Easy solution is to put something over it when not in use.
> 
> 2. don’t know
> 
> 3. due to kids mine is on through half the day. Probably same usage as with TV
> 
> 4. kids don’t care about too big. get maybe beamer first and try out size. there are also some general guidance on the internet for this but in my case 330cm a 100 was too small, 120 too big and 110 perfect. Still sometimes we go on floor in front of couch and it is a non issue. In doubt bigger works and you want the immersion. wife saw 84inch LED in shop and was like nah you are correct it is too small
> 
> 5. any wave kills UST. Just put a flashlight from directly below and probably it should show the issue you will face.
> 
> Would highly highly recommend ALR screen such as xy pet crystal if any daylight is happening. will post picture to showcase


Thanks so much for your help.

Concerning the dust, does it actually go inside the optics? How easy is it to blow it off and can it eventually burn into the DLP or Laser source?

As for the size, I have been doing some reading and it seems to me that it won't be too much of an issue. Just have to convince my wife because she is not used to such a big screen in a living room. She actually considers that a 43" TV is a little big for 120" viewing distance, so, I might need to do some brainwashing. Eheh.

As for the screen, if mine won't work (it's wavy in the inferior corners) then I will probably have to project on the wall (it's flat) for the time being as I have no more budget for a decent projection screen. Which actually makes me think if it is a mistake to purchase such a beast for what is basically our not-so-big living room. I used to have a dedicated home theater room a long time ago but now unfortunately we don't have space for one.

Again, thank you! You info is being very helpful.


----------



## RickMes

dami1337 said:


> See here daylight without direct sunlight impact of white wall vs proper screen: Formovie Theater - Enhanced Global / International...


Woah! What a huge difference! Maybe I should settle for a cheaper projector and a good projection screen, then?


----------



## m0j0

Interesting YouTube video about Dolby Vision…


----------



## m0j0

RickMes said:


> Woah! What a huge difference! Maybe I should settle for a cheaper projector and a good projection screen, then?


You could go with the Chinese T1 and a budget screen like xy screens pet Crystal ALR screen for less than the cost of the Global.


----------



## m0j0

Another truckload of pics of the T1...


----------



## ajamils

m0j0 said:


> Another truckload of pics of the T1...


Amazing color and clarity. I have not seen something this good on my Hisense PX1-Pro. 

Are you using any type of external processor to get such amazing contrast and poping colors?


----------



## franz krenn

Got my T1 global version yesterday. Unfortunately, I have the problem that the left side cannot focus properly with the electric focus.

I read here that there is a member who fixed the problem himself by unscrewing the cover and manually adjusting the focus ring.

Unfortunately, I'm not a technical genius. Maybe there is a member who could post a video tutorial.

I don't want to return the projector as I waited 2 months to get it.


----------



## tnaik4

franz krenn said:


> Got my T1 global version yesterday. Unfortunately, I have the problem that the left side cannot focus properly with the electric focus.
> 
> I read here that there is a member who fixed the problem himself by unscrewing the cover and manually adjusting the focus ring.
> 
> Unfortunately, I'm not a technical genius. Maybe there is a member who could post a video tutorial.
> 
> I don't want to return the projector as I waited 2 months to get it.


Hi, i m the one who unscrewed the cover and fixed the focus, but mine was bad focus on the upper half of the image not just the left side.
After the fix the whole image was good, although the right side has the best clarity but its a very minimal difference. I ve never had a projector that had exactly even focus accross the whole screen.


----------



## MrGrimble

m0j0 said:


> Another truckload of pics of the T1...


The pics really look great.
The thing I’m noticing is that although the black are indeed very black and not grayish, its hard to get the texture of a black area. 
For example, Jeff Daniels’s suite looks very black but you don’t see any texture on it.
Is that a brightness issue? Is that what’s called ״a lack in shadow detail”?


----------



## franz krenn

tnaik4 said:


> Hi, i m the one who unscrewed the cover and fixed the focus, but mine was bad focus on the upper half of the image not just the left side.
> After the fix the whole image was good, although the right side has the best clarity but its a very minimal difference. I ve never had a projector that had exactly even focus accross the whole screen.



Thank you for your answer! You are a technical genius! I don't even know where the focus ring is! I wouldn't even know where to turn it.


----------



## MrGrimble

antjes said:


> I think they have the global version


Indeed


----------



## antjes

And talking about chinese vs global version..
Of course global is a refined product but... in my case global is 950€ difference Up, so I'm pretty happy with my chinese Ver according to the price.
Having said that, It needs a better firmware: HDMI handshake needs fix, in some movies still persistant red tint, It needs more custom settings slots (I can manage this with projectivity)
And It is not a matter of you pay more you get a better product (global) , is a matter of selling an unfinished product.
Fengmi guys.. please work on this.

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## RickMes

antjes said:


> And talking about chinese vs global version..
> Of course global is a refined product but... in my case global is 950€ difference Up, so I'm pretty happy with my chinese Ver according to the price.
> Having said that, It needs a better firmware: HDMI handshake needs fix, in some movies still persistant red tint, It needs more custom settings slots (I can manage this with projectivity)
> And It is not a matter of you pay more you get a better product (global) , is a matter of selling an unfinished product.
> Fengmi guys.. please work on this.
> 
> Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


Yes, I've read around here that the international version is more refined. So maybe it's better to go for it and save for a decent enough screen later on...


----------



## m0j0

ajamils said:


> Amazing color and clarity. I have not seen something this good on my Hisense PX1-Pro.
> 
> Are you using any type of external processor to get such amazing contrast and poping colors?


No processor. Just 4k SDR on either an Nvidia Shield Pro or Zidoo Z9X media player.


----------



## m0j0

MrGrimble said:


> The pics really look great.
> The thing I’m noticing is that although the black are indeed very black and not grayish, its hard to get the texture of a black area.
> For example, Jeff Daniels’s suite looks very black but you don’t see any texture on it.
> Is that a brightness issue? Is that what’s called ״a lack in shadow detail”?


Honestly, the camera sometimes just can't pick up all the details. The full black details are there in real life. There is no black crush with my settings in person.


----------



## tnaik4

franz krenn said:


> Thank you for your answer! You are a technical genius! I don't even know where the focus ring is! I wouldn't even know where to turn it.


Send me a dm and i can help you with step by step how you can do it.


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> Interesting YouTube video about Dolby Vision…


Thanks, m0j0. Very informative video.


----------



## dibitri123

JereyWolf said:


> I've had both, get the Fengmi...or the international version, the Formovie Theater. I would have paid the extra for the international if it was available at the time.


which one do you currently own and use ?


----------



## JereyWolf

dibitri123 said:


> which one do you currently own and use ?


Fengmi T1.
The PX1 Pro wins on user interface and controls and also slightly better motion handling, but I think the native contrast and dark scene performance of the T1 makes it the better projector.


----------



## dibitri123

JereyWolf said:


> Fengmi T1.
> The PX1 Pro wins on user interface and controls and also slightly better motion handling, but I think the native contrast and dark scene performance of the T1 makes it the better projector.


K thanks


----------



## spocky12

Dave Harper said:


> You can turn your madVR HTPC into a pseudo Envy with multiple HDMI input for external sources by adding a BlackMagic DeckLink HDMI capture card and installing a software called “VideoProcessor”.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason they can’t do it is because they run a custom OS called FengOS on the China version. For CMS controls you need AndroidTV, like the International version and other projectors. I think I heard you have to pay to unlock CMS in your AndroidTV software during engineering.
> 
> They’d have to completely rewrite the OS from what I’ve heard.


I've read several misconceptions regarding Android tv and fengOs, here and on the Theater thread. I thought I'd try give my vision of things (keep in mind that I'm not working for Google or Xiaomi, so I might not be 100% correct )


FengOs is Android tv. Despite its name, it's not another operating system. What's different with international models Android tv is : no Google services (they have to pay for it and have little interest in doing so for the Chinese market), a custom launcher (= home screen) and usually a custom settings app that doesn't offer as many parameters as the stock Android settings (which is usually hidden, yet accessible, if your know how). This is 99% app level, the system underneath is the same
SOC manufacturers (mediatek, AmLogic...) provide low level libs to talk to the hardware. These libs are the same between Chinese and global devices. These libs are not device, or brand specific (though they are sometimes patched by a brand to fix a bug or incompatibility with their hardware or their own customizations). Obviously, they evolve during time, fixing bugs and sometimes adding features (ex: motion compensation has landed in the amlogic libs before the first device supporting it was announced).
device manufacturers generally build middleware libs above those low level libs. It's these middleware libs that will be used by their apps (settings, media player, HDMI input app...). Not sure for the Theater yet, but on their AmLogic devices, the middleware libs were also shared between Chinese and global devices
Android Tv doesn't offer an API to customize the image parameters (CMS...). This has to be implemented by the manufacturer, using the low level (or middleware) libs. To do this, they either build their own setting app (in fengOs), or (in global model) edit the stock Android settings app to add the code doing this.

I might be wrong, but I've never heard of any stock CMS setting in Android tv, so I don't think they could pay to unlock it, unless it has changed recently (which is totally possible).
Based on my experience, it was always custom manufacturer code that added image parameters. Yet, perhaps mediatek provides low level libs as well as higher level ones to ease the development of CMS, and that they require a custom licence to use it. It would be surprising, but not impossible.
For me, there's nothing preventing Fengmi from building a custom CMS except development cost. What's sure is that they won't have to rewrite their "os" from scratch.
Of course, on their side it's not as simple as reusing the same code, technically as well as for a good user experience (on FengOs, they don't rely on stock settings app so this would have to be reimplemented in their own setting app).

And because these questions come back regularly :

we can't flash the Theater firmware on the T1 (we don't have it, there are software checks, the hardware is slightly different, and though it's technically possible to adapt it, it would require tests and big chances of brick on an expensive device)
depending on how the global CMS has been developed (in an external app called by the stock settings ? using the same low level or middleware libs ?), we might be able to use it on the T1 (I'd say chances are less than 10%, though).
unless they surprise us with their next update (which seems really big in terms of code size), we would have a better chance trying to build a custom CMS based on the low level or middleware libs. But then come the Android security limitations that prevent using libs by non system apps. I've had some success a few months ago, but they didn't lead to anything exploitable (yet).


----------



## ProFragger

spocky12 said:


> I've read several misconceptions regarding Android tv and fengOs, here and on the Theater thread. I thought I'd try give my vision of things (keep in mind that I'm not working for Google or Xiaomi, so I might not be 100% correct )
> 
> 
> FengOs is Android tv. Despite its name, it's not another operating system. What's different with international models Android tv is : no Google services (they have to pay for it and have little interest in doing so for the Chinese market), a custom launcher (= home screen) and usually a custom settings app that doesn't offer as many parameters as the stock Android settings (which is usually hidden, yet accessible, if your know how). This is 99% app level, the system underneath is the same
> SOC manufacturers (mediatek, AmLogic...) provide low level libs to talk to the hardware. These libs are the same between Chinese and global devices. These libs are not device, or brand specific (though they are sometimes patched by a brand to fix a bug or incompatibility with their hardware or their own customizations). Obviously, they evolve during time, fixing bugs and sometimes adding features (ex: motion compensation has landed in the amlogic libs before the first device supporting it was announced).
> device manufacturers generally build middleware libs above those low level libs. It's these middleware libs that will be used by their apps (settings, media player, HDMI input app...). Not sure for the Theater yet, but on their AmLogic devices, the middleware libs were also shared between Chinese and global devices
> Android Tv doesn't offer an API to customize the image parameters (CMS...). This has to be implemented by the manufacturer, using the low level (or middleware) libs. To do this, they either build their own setting app (in fengOs), or (in global model) edit the stock Android settings app to add the code doing this.
> 
> I might be wrong, but I've never heard of any stock CMS setting in Android tv, so I don't think they could pay to unlock it, unless it has changed recently (which is totally possible).
> Based on my experience, it was always custom manufacturer code that added image parameters. Yet, perhaps mediatek provides low level libs as well as higher level ones to ease the development of CMS, and that they require a custom licence to use it. It would be surprising, but not impossible.
> For me, there's nothing preventing Fengmi from building a custom CMS except development cost. What's sure is that they won't have to rewrite their "os" from scratch.
> Of course, on their side it's not as simple as reusing the same code, technically as well as for a good user experience (on FengOs, they don't rely on stock settings app so this would have to be reimplemented in their own setting app).
> 
> And because these questions come back regularly :
> 
> we can't flash the Theater firmware on the T1 (we don't have it, there are software checks, the hardware is slightly different, and though it's technically possible to adapt it, it would require tests and big chances of brick on an expensive device)
> depending on how the global CMS has been developed (in an external app called by the stock settings ? using the same low level or middleware libs ?), we might be able to use it on the T1 (I'd say chances are less than 10%, though).
> unless they surprise us with their next update (which seems really big in terms of code size), we would have a better chance trying to build a custom CMS based on the low level or middleware libs. But then come the Android security limitations that prevent using libs by non system apps. I've had some success a few months ago, but they didn't lead to anything exploitable (yet).


You're a treasure to this community man! Thanks for the education and your contributions with Projectivy! 😊


----------



## donw

Uuuhm...please do not tell me that my wife and I are going crazy. Twice now we have seen at the bottom of our screen while watching a move, "I am listening", along with some Chinese characters. Has anyone else seen this?


----------



## rjyap

spocky12 said:


> I've read several misconceptions regarding Android tv and fengOs, here and on the Theater thread. I thought I'd try give my vision of things (keep in mind that I'm not working for Google or Xiaomi, so I might not be 100% correct )
> 
> 
> FengOs is Android tv. Despite its name, it's not another operating system. What's different with international models Android tv is : no Google services (they have to pay for it and have little interest in doing so for the Chinese market), a custom launcher (= home screen) and usually a custom settings app that doesn't offer as many parameters as the stock Android settings (which is usually hidden, yet accessible, if your know how). This is 99% app level, the system underneath is the same
> SOC manufacturers (mediatek, AmLogic...) provide low level libs to talk to the hardware. These libs are the same between Chinese and global devices. These libs are not device, or brand specific (though they are sometimes patched by a brand to fix a bug or incompatibility with their hardware or their own customizations). Obviously, they evolve during time, fixing bugs and sometimes adding features (ex: motion compensation has landed in the amlogic libs before the first device supporting it was announced).
> device manufacturers generally build middleware libs above those low level libs. It's these middleware libs that will be used by their apps (settings, media player, HDMI input app...). Not sure for the Theater yet, but on their AmLogic devices, the middleware libs were also shared between Chinese and global devices
> Android Tv doesn't offer an API to customize the image parameters (CMS...). This has to be implemented by the manufacturer, using the low level (or middleware) libs. To do this, they either build their own setting app (in fengOs), or (in global model) edit the stock Android settings app to add the code doing this.
> 
> I might be wrong, but I've never heard of any stock CMS setting in Android tv, so I don't think they could pay to unlock it, unless it has changed recently (which is totally possible).
> Based on my experience, it was always custom manufacturer code that added image parameters. Yet, perhaps mediatek provides low level libs as well as higher level ones to ease the development of CMS, and that they require a custom licence to use it. It would be surprising, but not impossible.
> For me, there's nothing preventing Fengmi from building a custom CMS except development cost. What's sure is that they won't have to rewrite their "os" from scratch.
> Of course, on their side it's not as simple as reusing the same code, technically as well as for a good user experience (on FengOs, they don't rely on stock settings app so this would have to be reimplemented in their own setting app).
> 
> And because these questions come back regularly :
> 
> we can't flash the Theater firmware on the T1 (we don't have it, there are software checks, the hardware is slightly different, and though it's technically possible to adapt it, it would require tests and big chances of brick on an expensive device)
> depending on how the global CMS has been developed (in an external app called by the stock settings ? using the same low level or middleware libs ?), we might be able to use it on the T1 (I'd say chances are less than 10%, though).
> unless they surprise us with their next update (which seems really big in terms of code size), we would have a better chance trying to build a custom CMS based on the low level or middleware libs. But then come the Android security limitations that prevent using libs by non system apps. I've had some success a few months ago, but they didn't lead to anything exploitable (yet).


Thanks for your insight. If you manage to extract the middleware to interact with low level hardware that would be the greatest gift to Chinese UST users. Will definitely support your projectivity project exposing those function.


----------



## Deanodxb

donw said:


> Uuuhm...please do not tell me that my wife and I are going crazy. Twice now we have seen at the bottom of our screen while watching a move, "I am listening", along with some Chinese characters. Has anyone else seen this?


Nope. Are you sure you didn't accidentally hit the mic button on the remote activating voice control? I would be more worried about Alexa!


----------



## Deanodxb

franz krenn said:


> Got my T1 global version yesterday. Unfortunately, I have the problem that the left side cannot focus properly with the electric focus.
> 
> I read here that there is a member who fixed the problem himself by unscrewing the cover and manually adjusting the focus ring.
> 
> Unfortunately, I'm not a technical genius. Maybe there is a member who could post a video tutorial.
> 
> I don't want to return the projector as I waited 2 months to get it.


You may not need take such drastic action. Check levels and position of everything with Keystone set to default and then try the focus again.

Formovie Fengmi T1


----------



## Lion DD

The lumens of Formovie Fengmi T1 is 4500. I want to use a motorized projection screen with ambient light suppression. When I was searching, I saw that the website Vividstorm sells sets of T1 and screen. I want to know the brand ALR screen of Vividstorm. Is it suitable for Formovie Fengmi T1? ? Because I don't know much about it, but it looks ok on the website, asking for advice.


----------



## teachsac

*Price talk and where to buy are not permitted outside of the designated deal’s areas.*


----------



## RickMes

teachsac said:


> *Price talk and where to buy are not permitted outside of the designated deal’s areas.*


Yes, I am very sorry! Noob mistake on this forum.


----------



## m0j0

Was playing around with using dynamic contrast on the T1 while watching movies on the Zidoo Z9X. To my surprise, I was actually able to get a good benefit from it with some adjustment to brightness and contrast. I never liked how it worked on my Roku Ultra or Nvidia Shield, but it seems to behave a bit different with the Zidoo Z9X and the VS10 engine. I tested with 3 or 4 movies, and found that it worked great overall, but again, it requires an increase to brightness settings and contrast as well, and it can change from movie to movie, so it's a bit of tweaking to get it looking good.


----------



## m0j0

Lego Movie 2 settings tested:

Brightness: 66
Contrast: 63
Saturation: 46
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 50
Dynamic Contrast: On

Note: Pictures do not do this one justice. The colors were eye popping in real life!


----------



## m0j0

Matrix Resurrections and Dune settings tested:

Brightness: 59
Contrast: 82
Saturation: 46
Sharpness: 22
Tone: 50
Dynamic Contrast: On


----------



## rooterha

spocky12 said:


> I've read several misconceptions regarding Android tv and fengOs, here and on the Theater thread. I thought I'd try give my vision of things (keep in mind that I'm not working for Google or Xiaomi, so I might not be 100% correct )
> 
> 
> FengOs is Android tv. Despite its name, it's not another operating system. What's different with international models Android tv is : no Google services (they have to pay for it and have little interest in doing so for the Chinese market), a custom launcher (= home screen) and usually a custom settings app that doesn't offer as many parameters as the stock Android settings (which is usually hidden, yet accessible, if your know how). This is 99% app level, the system underneath is the same
> SOC manufacturers (mediatek, AmLogic...) provide low level libs to talk to the hardware. These libs are the same between Chinese and global devices. These libs are not device, or brand specific (though they are sometimes patched by a brand to fix a bug or incompatibility with their hardware or their own customizations). Obviously, they evolve during time, fixing bugs and sometimes adding features (ex: motion compensation has landed in the amlogic libs before the first device supporting it was announced).
> device manufacturers generally build middleware libs above those low level libs. It's these middleware libs that will be used by their apps (settings, media player, HDMI input app...). Not sure for the Theater yet, but on their AmLogic devices, the middleware libs were also shared between Chinese and global devices
> Android Tv doesn't offer an API to customize the image parameters (CMS...). This has to be implemented by the manufacturer, using the low level (or middleware) libs. To do this, they either build their own setting app (in fengOs), or (in global model) edit the stock Android settings app to add the code doing this.
> 
> I might be wrong, but I've never heard of any stock CMS setting in Android tv, so I don't think they could pay to unlock it, unless it has changed recently (which is totally possible).
> Based on my experience, it was always custom manufacturer code that added image parameters. Yet, perhaps mediatek provides low level libs as well as higher level ones to ease the development of CMS, and that they require a custom licence to use it. It would be surprising, but not impossible.
> For me, there's nothing preventing Fengmi from building a custom CMS except development cost. What's sure is that they won't have to rewrite their "os" from scratch.
> Of course, on their side it's not as simple as reusing the same code, technically as well as for a good user experience (on FengOs, they don't rely on stock settings app so this would have to be reimplemented in their own setting app).
> 
> And because these questions come back regularly :
> 
> we can't flash the Theater firmware on the T1 (we don't have it, there are software checks, the hardware is slightly different, and though it's technically possible to adapt it, it would require tests and big chances of brick on an expensive device)
> depending on how the global CMS has been developed (in an external app called by the stock settings ? using the same low level or middleware libs ?), we might be able to use it on the T1 (I'd say chances are less than 10%, though).
> unless they surprise us with their next update (which seems really big in terms of code size), we would have a better chance trying to build a custom CMS based on the low level or middleware libs. But then come the Android security limitations that prevent using libs by non system apps. I've had some success a few months ago, but they didn't lead to anything exploitable (yet).


Do you need help getting a dump of the International version? If so DM me and I'll take care of it.


----------



## JereyWolf

teachsac said:


> *Price talk and where to buy are not permitted outside of the designated deal’s areas.*


Where can I find clarification for "Price Talk" rules...because my post that said:

"I've had both, get the Fengmi...or the international version, the Formovie Theater. I would have paid the extra for the international if it was available at the time. "

was deleted and I never mentioned the price or where to buy....was it because of the original post I was responding to?


----------



## m0j0

JereyWolf said:


> Where can I find clarification for "Price Talk" rules...because my post that said:
> 
> "I've had both, get the Fengmi...or the international version, the Formovie Theater. I would have paid the extra for the international if it was available at the time. "
> 
> was deleted and I never mentioned the price or where to buy....was it because of the original post I was responding to?


Fair question!


----------



## antjes

rooterha said:


> Do you need help getting a dump of the International version? If so DM me and I'll take care of it.


Rooterha thanks for your initiative.
I wish spocky12 can do magic and give us extra features, never mind if I have to pay a premium projectivity version, I would do it happy.


----------



## Mike Lang

JereyWolf said:


> because my post...


If you quoted a post that no longer exists, you have your answer. 

If you have any other questions, feel free to drop me a PM & I can dig into it vs veering further off topic here.


----------



## Dr. Feelgood

Ok, I had to buy one today. I‘m kind on a budge, can anyone recommend a decent 120“ screen in the EU. I will only watch at night with some background lights on. No screen for sunlight needed. Really hope if someone could help me out.


----------



## Deanodxb

donw said:


> I turned my saturation down to 40, and lips are not near as bright. Could probably bring it down a little more.


You're right. I was watching Inglorious Basterds last night (Netflix source) and the red in the scenes towards the end of the movie (curtains in the map room, Nazi memorobilia in the cinema, girls red dress etc.) was just too saturated at 47. I toned this down a lot, to 36. Brightness and Contrast kept the same. Movies and TV content look fine at this setting but the ATV4K interface does look "duller". 

Anyway I ran Inglorious Basterds back and forth in DV, SDR and HDR options from the ATV4k, tweaking the satuaration, contrast and brightness to find the best setting. To my eyes HDR is still the better option of the three. I will upload some comparison images later.


----------



## zoomx2

rooterha said:


> Do you need help getting a dump of the International version? If so DM me and I'll take care of it.


Thank you for your contribution.


----------



## donw

Deanodxb said:


> Nope. Are you sure you didn't accidentally hit the mic button on the remote activating voice control? I would be more worried about Alexa!


Nope, I just tried pressing the mic button while watching a show, and the T1 goes to a whole screen in Chinese. This was like a pop up below the video image that said "I am listening" and had a few Chinese characters.


----------



## Deanodxb

Deanodxb said:


> You're right. I was watching Inglorious Basterds last night (Netflix source) and the red in the scenes towards the end of the movie (curtains in the map room, Nazi memorobilia in the cinema, girls red dress etc.) was just too saturated at 47. I toned this down a lot, to 36. Brightness and Contrast kept the same. Movies and TV content look fine at this setting but the ATV4K interface does look "duller".
> 
> Anyway I ran Inglorious Basterds back and forth in DV, SDR and HDR options from the ATV4k, tweaking the saturation, contrast and brightness to find the best setting. To my eyes HDR is still the better option of the three. I will upload some comparison images later.


Comparison Images (Chroma and frame rate matching on on ATV in all cases):

Dolby Vision:






















SDR 4K:


















Bonus close up taken about 8" from screen








HDR 4K:






















If you look at the gold eagle in the pics above, you can see why I prefer HDR.

You might see pixel detail or slight pixel 'waves' on the close up shot if you view at 100% but I did not see this with the naked eye when I was standing real close to the PJ screen. It was like I was looking at a printed poster. The image quality of the T1 really surprised me close up, which is why included those pics.

UPDATE 8/8/2022

These are shots of the same scenes from a UHD rip (non-DV encode) for comparison. Same settings as above. The vibrancy of the red exists on the T1 from this UHD source too, so its not just Netflix encoding.















For comparison, I went back and watched both the UHD encode and Netflix version on my LG OLED. That display is not calibrated or anything but the reds are much more muted - the curtains and banners blend in to the background and don't stand out at all. 

Personally, I like the way the T1 rendered the above scenes, compared the to LG. Its certainly a bit of 'pop', but in the context of the movie I think it just makes those scenes even more powerful/impactful.

Would be interesting to see if anyone with the international version of the T1 can do a comparison of the same scenes...


----------



## JereyWolf

Deanodxb said:


> Comparison Images (Chroma and frame rate matching on on ATV in all cases):
> 
> Dolby Vision:
> 
> 
> View attachment 3315699
> View attachment 3315700
> View attachment 3315701
> 
> 
> SDR 4K:
> View attachment 3315702
> View attachment 3315703
> View attachment 3315704
> Bonus close up taken about 8" from screen
> View attachment 3315705
> 
> 
> HDR 4K:
> 
> View attachment 3315710
> View attachment 3315712
> View attachment 3315713
> 
> 
> 
> If you look at the gold eagle in the pics above, you can see why I prefer HDR.
> 
> You might see pixel detail or slight pixel 'waves' on the close up shot if you view at 100% but I did not see this with the naked eye when I was standing real close to the PJ screen. It was like I was looking at a printed poster. The image quality of the T1 really surprised me close up, which is why included those pics.


Thanks for taking the time to get these very good comparisons!

Are you sure that the difference in sharpness on the gold eagle is due to HDR? To me it looks like the filming camera was in motion on the frames you photographed for DV and SDR, can you capture the exact same frame/time stamp in normal HDR to make a closer comparison?

It's clear that normal HDR is far better than DV here, but maybe that's an artifact of the ATV DV conversion??


----------



## m0j0

Some pics from last night


----------



## antjes

JereyWolf said:


> Thanks for taking the time to get these very good comparisons!
> 
> Are you sure that the difference in sharpness on the gold eagle is due to HDR? To me it looks like the filming camera was in motion on the frames you photographed for DV and SDR, can you capture the exact same frame/time stamp in normal HDR to make a closer comparison?
> 
> It's clear that normal HDR is far better than DV here, but maybe that's an artifact of the ATV DV conversion??


I use to have those problems with red tint in streaming(Netflix) and Dolby Vision exclusively, even I find green spots in DV for some series (stranger things)
In local content I dont have that problems.
This makes me think about Netflix DV content problem

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## gonzo86

Sad to report that my T1 has developed a color issue in the top left corner after about 2 months of use. I'm sure I can go through the warranty process but hoping there's a solution not requiring return shipping to China. Anyone have a clue what could be causing this? I've cleaned the lens so it's definitely not that. If I end up opening the unit, I figure I can fix the focus issue as well as clean the inside of the lens since it's kind of dirty and has dust (it's had this dust and slight haze on the inside of the lens since day 1 so makes me wonder how dust free the manufacturing environment is).


----------



## rjyap

most likely dust inside the lens. Just open up and clean it plus adjust the focus. Nothing to loose if it doesn’t work and send back for warranty.


----------



## MRJAZZZ

This color aberration could just be a dust blob. Try taking a small fan and turning it on it's highest setting and put it against the right side input (right side as viewed from your seated position).
I have had 2 so far and blowing air thru it got rid of it. Fengmi's air filtration for dust leaves alot to be desired.


----------



## Deanodxb

JereyWolf said:


> Thanks for taking the time to get these very good comparisons!
> 
> Are you sure that the difference in sharpness on the gold eagle is due to HDR? To me it looks like the filming camera was in motion on the frames you photographed for DV and SDR, can you capture the exact same frame/time stamp in normal HDR to make a closer comparison?
> 
> It's clear that normal HDR is far better than DV here, but maybe that's an artifact of the ATV DV conversion??


Video was paused. I went out of Netflix in to the ATV video settings, changed the settings, then went back into Netflix to take the shot. I probably wasn't standing in the same spot each photo though. I'll try again at the weekend with showing the timestamps and I'll also see if I have a another source for the movie, just to rule out any Netflix processing issues.


----------



## Deanodxb

MRJAZZZ said:


> This color aberration could just be a dust blob. Try taking a small fan and turning it on it's highest setting and put it against the right side input (right side as viewed from your seated position).
> I have had 2 so far and blowing air thru it got rid of it. Fengmi's air filtration for dust leaves alot to be desired.


Amazon sell electric air blowers for PC cleaning etc. They are really good and powerful. I have an X power branded one.


----------



## m0j0

A few more pics


----------



## gonzo86

MRJAZZZ said:


> This color aberration could just be a dust blob. Try taking a small fan and turning it on it's highest setting and put it against the right side input (right side as viewed from your seated position).
> I have had 2 so far and blowing air thru it got rid of it. Fengmi's air filtration for dust leaves alot to be desired.


Would you recommend using canned air? Or would that be too strong?


----------



## xmen18

m0j0 said:


> A few more pics


Which do you recommend the hisense px1-pro or the fengmi t1? I have an oled lg 55". Thank you very much


----------



## antony.h

I have checked Wupro's Alibaba page to get Vividstorm S Pro recently. And they are not selling Vividstorm screen anymore. They brand an S Pro screen with their own name. Is it another manufacturer turned to sell their screen leaving the existing brand?


----------



## m0j0

xmen18 said:


> Which do you recommend the hisense px1-pro or the fengmi t1? I have an oled lg 55". Thank you very much


Fengmi T1 all the way!


----------



## ProjectionHead

Congratulations to Fengmi / Formovie and the "T1 Brigade" here on AVSForum!

The Formovie Theater just won the 2022 Laser TV showdown hosted by Projector Central & ProjectorScreen.com!
Read about it here: The Ultra Short Throw Projector Shootout - 2022
AVS Forum Thread here: ProjectorCentral Teams with ProjectorScreen.com for the...

If it wasn't for all of the members here on AVSForum preaching about the T1, The Formovie Theater would not have made it into this competition and ultimately won.


----------



## m0j0

ProjectionHead said:


> Congratulations to Fengmi / Formovie and the "T1 Brigade" here on AVSForum!
> 
> The Formovie Theater just won the 2022 Laser TV showdown hosted by Projector Central & ProjectorScreen.com!
> Read about it here: The Ultra Short Throw Projector Shootout - 2022
> AVS Forum Thread here: ProjectorCentral Teams with ProjectorScreen.com for the...
> 
> If it wasn't for all of the members here on AVSForum preaching about the T1, The Formovie Theater would not have made it into this competition and ultimately won.


Thanks Brian and congrats on pulling off such an epic event! We fought the good fight, that’s for sure!


----------



## Deanodxb

Credit where credit is due. Fengmi has made an awesome product (both versions) and I hope such recognition really shakes up the market. They should be at E3 next year!


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

Been away a while, have no idea where I left off in this thread.
At this time I have not seen a firmware update in a long time since I was beta testing one of the first firmware, and everything is still doing pretty well.

The one issue I still deal with the most is what I suppose is the EDID issue, my Shield, XBox Series X, and PS5 all very often default back to 1080P and lose DV/HDR etc and force me to change the HDMI mode on the projector and go re-adjust the display settings on the source device.

Has there been any word on a fix for this? Once I get t hat fixed I cant say this PJ is Perfect, but its close enough for me.


----------



## m0j0

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Been away a while, have no idea where I left off in this thread.
> At this time I have not seen a firmware update in a long time since I was beta testing one of the first firmware, and everything is still doing pretty well.
> 
> The one issue I still deal with the most is what I suppose is the EDID issue, my Shield, XBox Series X, and PS5 all very often default back to 1080P and lose DV/HDR etc and force me to change the HDMI mode on the projector and go re-adjust the display settings on the source device.
> 
> Has there been any word on a fix for this? Once I get t hat fixed I cant say this PJ is Perfect, but its close enough for me.


Last I heard they were working on a firmware update to possibly address that issue. Been awhile though and haven't heard of any updates.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

m0j0 said:


> Last I heard they were working on a firmware update to possibly address that issue. Been awhile though and haven't heard of any updates.


Thanks, so I guess it's just been a while with no firmware updates. They were very quick at first so figured we would see some more.

Whats the current culture with the HDFury devices, has that become a "must have" or more of a "nice to have?" the only reason I wanted to get one was to fix the dark DV and HDR.
HDR is not bad with some custom profile tweaks to contrast, DV can still be a bit of an issue, but now the Shield has added a switch to disable HDR/DV I can work around that if needed.


----------



## m0j0

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Thanks, so I guess it's just been a while with no firmware updates. They were very quick at first so figured we would see some more.
> 
> Whats the current culture with the HDFury devices, has that become a "must have" or more of a "nice to have?" the only reason I wanted to get one was to fix the dark DV and HDR.
> HDR is not bad with some custom profile tweaks to contrast, DV can still be a bit of an issue, but now the Shield has added a switch to disable HDR/DV I can work around that if needed.


My approach was to move away from the HDFury method and toward using 4K SDR, and as you mentioned, the Shield option to disable DV helped in this regard.


----------



## antjes

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Thanks, so I guess it's just been a while with no firmware updates. They were very quick at first so figured we would see some more.
> 
> Whats the current culture with the HDFury devices, has that become a "must have" or more of a "nice to have?" the only reason I wanted to get one was to fix the dark DV and HDR.
> HDR is not bad with some custom profile tweaks to contrast, DV can still be a bit of an issue, but now the Shield has added a switch to disable HDR/DV I can work around that if needed.


You can also tweak DV under projectivity, at least for correcting the darker movies.
I use to do It and for abling MEMC on DV.

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## lattiboy

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Thanks, so I guess it's just been a while with no firmware updates. They were very quick at first so figured we would see some more.
> 
> Whats the current culture with the HDFury devices, has that become a "must have" or more of a "nice to have?" the only reason I wanted to get one was to fix the dark DV and HDR.
> HDR is not bad with some custom profile tweaks to contrast, DV can still be a bit of an issue, but now the Shield has added a switch to disable HDR/DV I can work around that if needed.


As @m0j0 said, using SDR on an AppleTV 4K has been near as good as HD Fury solution for me. You lose some color gamut, but tonemapping is excellent and I never have to adjust a single setting.

I will occasionally set it to HDR to watch a showcase like Planet Earth or a Pixar movie and just use “display mode” which I’ve found to be best for HDR.


----------



## aybt82

Hello all, I am new here and I just got my T1 Global, the theater in Singapore.
Still waiting for my screen to arrive, so now have to project on an uneven grey wall... with funny textures...

Is there a way to use Netflix with it? I can download from appstore but it says app not supported :/
Also, does the built-in Chromecast only work for Youtube but not Netflix? I can only see the projector to cast to via the Youtube app from my phone, but not Netflix.

The built in speaker work fine but virtually has no bassat all, so I tried hooking my old yamaha ysp-1600 to it via ARC. 
It seems to have some weird connection issues, I have 'popping' sound every few minutes, could it be the HDMI cable I am using? I tried switching HDMI version between 2.0 and 2.1 and it does not seems to solve the issues.

Any pointer for me?


----------



## ACE844

What version is the latest firmware update which just came out in the last few days? I am running 2289 and had a privacy policy change notification pop up but did not see the update applied or any update get done. If I check for updates it says I'm running the latest version..


----------



## raullopez1234

Will this projector work well enough with regular screen material. I need it for my dedicated bat cave


----------



## rjyap

raullopez1234 said:


> Will this projector work well enough with regular screen material. I need it for my dedicated bat cave


Yes. I’m using Carada Matte white screen.


----------



## ViciousXUSMC

antjes said:


> You can also tweak DV under projectivity, at least for correcting the darker movies.
> I use to do It and for abling MEMC on DV.
> 
> Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


Been meaning to give that a try, just since I have automation setup thru ADB and I didn't want anything to break in regards to future firmware updates I have not tried it yet.
Is the setting specific to DV, or just an overall change that also effects DV?


----------



## antjes

ViciousXUSMC said:


> Been meaning to give that a try, just since I have automation setup thru ADB and I didn't want anything to break in regards to future firmware updates I have not tried it yet.
> Is the setting specific to DV, or just an overall change that also effects DV?


It is custom setting for everything, I mean, no matter what you are playing, DV included, and you have custom setting access. This custom setting only aplies to projectivity internal player, so when you use FengOs player your custom setting is different and is not modified.

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## ACE844

raullopez1234 said:


> Will this projector work well enough with regular screen material. I need it for my dedicated bat cave


yes


----------



## zaselim

gonzo86 said:


> Sad to report that my T1 has developed a color issue in the top left corner after about 2 months of use. I'm sure I can go through the warranty process but hoping there's a solution not requiring return shipping to China. Anyone have a clue what could be causing this? I've cleaned the lens so it's definitely not that. If I end up opening the unit, I figure I can fix the focus issue as well as clean the inside of the lens since it's kind of dirty and has dust (it's had this dust and slight haze on the inside of the lens since day 1 so makes me wonder how dust free the manufacturing environment is).
> 
> View attachment 3316124


Once a week i get a very dim blue line or 2 at the bottom centre or right of the screen and I simply wipe the glass cover gently with the cloth came with the T1 and it clears it. So yeah it is pretty safe to say that it is because of dust. You just have a way bigger and clearer blue line like spot.


----------



## mattharler

Is there any way to set the color space for the projector? I'm trying to use Madvr on my htpc to convert HDR to SDR with bt.2020, but setting Madvr to bt.2020 results in very washed out colors on the T1. I would assume this was a setup error on my part, but when I test this with my Epson 5050ub, it seems to handle the bt. 2020 option just fine (whether set to that in its color space menu or set to auto).


----------



## tnaik4

mattharler said:


> Is there any way to set the color space for the projector? I'm trying to use Madvr on my htpc to convert HDR to SDR with bt.2020, but setting Madvr to bt.2020 results in very washed out colors on the T1. I would assume this was a setup error on my part, but when I test this with my Epson 5050ub, it seems to handle the bt. 2020 option just fine (whether set to that in its color space menu or set to auto).


I use it with MadVR , try bumping the saturation to 60-63, thats what gave me a better tracking, or use dci-p3 in madVR and lower sturation to 45-47 , it looks amazing with MadVR so definitely a setup issue, i have the greyscale calibrated too, most units have too much blue, so try lowering that a little, also try setting ur brightness/contrast using test patterns.


----------



## rjyap

tnaik4 said:


> I use it with MadVR , try bumping the saturation to 60-63, thats what gave me a better tracking, or use dci-p3 in madVR and lower sturation to 45-47 , it looks amazing with MadVR so definitely a setup issue, i have the greyscale calibrated too, most units have too much blue, so try lowering that a little, also try setting ur brightness/contrast using test patterns.


Yes. This is the same settings I would use if you don't have 3D LUT setup. I would advice to lower saturation to 45 and use DCI-P3 colorspace. Very natural looking skin tone and still with very pop color.


----------



## RickMes

zaselim said:


> Once a week i get a very dim blue line or 2 at the bottom centre or right of the screen and I simply wipe the glass cover gently with the cloth came with the T1 and it clears it. So yeah it is pretty safe to say that it is because of dust. You just have a way bigger and clearer blue line like spot.


I am assuming that, like me, you have a somewhat dusty environment. In the past,my LCD projectors were plagued with dust inside the optics system. Has this happened to your T1? Any idea about how good its ventilation system is and whether it is prone to this issue?


----------



## JereyWolf

mattharler said:


> Is there any way to set the color space for the projector? I'm trying to use Madvr on my htpc to convert HDR to SDR with bt.2020, but setting Madvr to bt.2020 results in very washed out colors on the T1. I would assume this was a setup error on my part, but when I test this with my Epson 5050ub, it seems to handle the bt. 2020 option just fine (whether set to that in its color space menu or set to auto).


I use the "disable calibration controls" option which I believe defaults to Rec.709 and I have saturation set to 50. That gave me the closest match to my calibrated OLED monitor that I use for reference. With calibrated white balance on the projector, I had to adjust the tone setting to 45 to get a very close match to that monitor.


----------



## mattharler

JereyWolf said:


> I use the "disable calibration controls" option which I believe defaults to Rec.709 and I have saturation set to 50. That gave me the closest match to my calibrated OLED monitor that I use for reference. With calibrated white balance on the projector, I had to adjust the tone setting to 45 to get a very close match to that monitor.


This was my experience as well, that 709 on the T1 looked the most like my OLED (which was using 2020) and what I would otherwise expect the image to look like. Using DCI-P3 or 2020 (with or without Report bt. 2020 to device enabled) had the effect of desaturating the image a ton and giving skin a very dull brown look. This was not my same experience with the 5050ub, where, when matched with the right color space menu option (or set to Auto), 709 and 2020 are hard to tell apart to the naked eye and skin looks normal on both. I can actually replicate the dull/brown look I see on the T1 with 2020, by setting the Epson 5050ub to 709 in the menu and then setting Madvr to 2020, which leads me to believe the T1 isn't handling 2020 right unless sent an actual HDR signal. If I use my shield to watch 4k hdr rips through Plex, everything looks normal with the Shield set to 2020, but of course tone-mapping is wildly worse than with Madvr. 

Honestly, I could be happy with what I've seen from Madvr when set to 709, it just makes me feel like I'm leaving some color performance on the table.


----------



## m0j0

Not sure if you saw @rjyap's settings he posted for MadVR, so here's the link (this was before the firmware was updated though, so not sure if it's still valid or if there have been changes):









Formovie Fengmi T1


We’ll I assume you mean how far from the screen (wall is irrelevant if you are using a screen to shine on). 110” is 10.4” and 120” is 12” so figure somewhere around 11”




www.avsforum.com


----------



## JereyWolf

mattharler said:


> This was my experience as well, that 709 on the T1 looked the most like my OLED (which was using 2020) and what I would otherwise expect the image to look like. Using DCI-P3 or 2020 (with or without Report bt. 2020 to device enabled) had the effect of desaturating the image a ton and giving skin a very dull brown look. This was not my same experience with the 5050ub, where, when matched with the right color space menu option (or set to Auto), 709 and 2020 are hard to tell apart to the naked eye and skin looks normal on both. I can actually replicate the dull/brown look I see on the T1 with 2020, by setting the Epson 5050ub to 709 in the menu and then setting Madvr to 2020, which leads me to believe the T1 isn't handling 2020 right unless sent an actual HDR signal. If I use my shield to watch 4k hdr rips through Plex, everything looks normal with the Shield set to 2020, but of course tone-mapping is wildly worse than with Madvr.
> 
> Honestly, I could be happy with what I've seen from Madvr when set to 709, it just makes me feel like I'm leaving some color performance on the table.


Yeah, I understand that feeling of leaving performance on the table. I think that's part of the reason many people are hesitant to bypass HDR/Dolby Vision in favor of SDR. I just feel like with the way the tone mapping is on the T1, even using an HDfury (I have the Vrroom) the end result is far better with SDR....but I don't even see that as bad thing....I don't feel like I'm missing out on anything with how good the SDR image is.


----------



## mattharler

m0j0 said:


> Not sure if you saw @rjyap's settings he posted for MadVR, so here's the link (this was before the firmware was updated though, so not sure if it's still valid or if there have been changes):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Formovie Fengmi T1
> 
> 
> We’ll I assume you mean how far from the screen (wall is irrelevant if you are using a screen to shine on). 110” is 10.4” and 120” is 12” so figure somewhere around 11”
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


I'll give those a go, but on that subject, I can't for the life of me see any changes when adjusting the gains in the custom color options, even at crazy extremes, am I missing something?


----------



## JereyWolf

mattharler said:


> I'll give those a go, but on that subject, I can't for the life of me see any changes when adjusting the gains in the custom color options, even at crazy extremes, am I missing something?


You have to make sure that the brightness mode is not on "office".


----------



## mattharler

JereyWolf said:


> You have to make sure that the brightness mode is not on "office".


Thanks, and dang, office seems to give me the most brightness.


----------



## JereyWolf

mattharler said:


> Thanks, and dang, office seems to give me the most brightness.


Yeah...In my experience you'll lose quite a bit of brightness to get a well calibrated white balance.

These settings might be way off the mark...but it doesn't hurt to give them a shot.
These were dialed in with a combination of colorimeter for white balance and using the reference monitor for tone adjustment.
Definitely try to set you brightness and contrast with test patterns.

Brightness 46
Contrast 49
Saturation 50
Tone 45
Sharpness 0 (not sure if this has any effect)
Color Custom
R-gain - 1026
G-gain - 1052
B-gain - 881
Dynamic Contrast off


----------



## m0j0

mattharler said:


> Thanks, and dang, office seems to give me the most brightness.


Yep, that is a current known bug/issue with the Fengmi T1. Office doesn't accept the RGB changes, so we all use View. Hopefully they will fix that in a future firmware update, as it's not an issue on the Global T1.


----------



## antjes

JereyWolf said:


> Sharpness 0 (not sure if this has any effect)


Sharpness is working but difficult to perceive.
In projectivity It is easier to see because you can go from máximum to minimun in one click.
In some movies I like a sharper picture (about 75%), in those with grain I prefer softer around 20%

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## zaselim

RickMes said:


> I am assuming that, like me, you have a somewhat dusty environment. In the past,my LCD projectors were plagued with dust inside the optics system. Has this happened to your T1? Any idea about how good its ventilation system is and whether it is prone to this issue?


No not that much but yeah a little, I see dust particles above the projector's lens cover area when it is on. Actually my AC is on the left wall right next to where the screen is and even though I have shifted the air's way to the right but i think some of the air does go down to the projector and some of the dust particles get attach to the lens cover. Its been 2 weeks since i last cleaned the lens cover and it's still clean. To be fair I only turned it on 3 times counting today (just finished watching John Wick 1) since i last cleaned it. I also custom made the projector cover (2 to 3 inches bigger from all sides, which covers the whole T1 but open from the back because of the cables and firestick 4k max) with table and T1 is covered when I am not using it and my usage is also below average like i don't turn it on daily or even for days. I only need to clean the cover once a week when I use it daily and I use it from 4 to 5 to 6 hrs continuously when i turn it on. I also place micro fiber cloth over he projector before covering it up with the T1's wood cover that I made to make sure that it remains cleans as long as possible. Yes i am super cautious lol, and like my stuff super clean.


----------



## ProFragger

JereyWolf said:


> Yeah...In my experience you'll lose quite a bit of brightness to get a well calibrated white balance.
> 
> These settings might be way off the mark...but it doesn't hurt to give them a shot.
> These were dialed in with a combination of colorimeter for white balance and using the reference monitor for tone adjustment.
> Definitely try to set you brightness and contrast with test patterns.
> 
> Brightness 46
> Contrast 49
> Saturation 50
> Tone 45
> Sharpness 0 (not sure if this has any effect)
> Color Custom
> R-gain - 1026
> G-gain - 1052
> B-gain - 881
> Dynamic Contrast off


Thanks @JereyWolf! Remind me... Are you using a Shield Pro for your streaming and these settings are calibrated for Shield with SDR?


----------



## RickMes

zaselim said:


> No not that much but yeah a little, I see dust particles above the projector's lens cover area when it is on. Actually my AC is on the left wall right next to where the screen is and even though I have shifted the air's way to the right but i think some of the air does go down to the projector and some of the dust particles get attach to the lens cover. Its been 2 weeks since i last cleaned the lens cover and it's still clean. To be fair I only turned it on 3 times counting today (just finished watching John Wick 1) since i last cleaned it. I also custom made the projector cover (2 to 3 inches bigger from all sides, which covers the whole T1 but open from the back because of the cables and firestick 4k max) with table and T1 is covered when I am not using it and my usage is also below average like i don't turn it on daily or even for days. I only need to clean the cover once a week when I use it daily and I use it from 4 to 5 to 6 hrs continuously when i turn it on. I also place micro fiber cloth over he projector before covering it up with the T1's wood cover that I made to make sure that it remains cleans as long as possible. Yes i am super cautious lol, and like my stuff super clean.


I was thinking of using just a near-sized dust cover, but after reading your precautions, I am thinking that maybe it's better to better protect like you did. I will be placing it in my living room which has full access to my 4 year old son (fingers crossed!).

So, but you think that the inside the optics system is protected enough to avoid interior dust in the projector?


----------



## JereyWolf

ProFragger said:


> Thanks @JereyWolf! Remind me... Are you using a Shield Pro for your streaming and these settings are calibrated for Shield with SDR?


Sure thing!
Yes, I use the Shield Pro for all streaming with HDR/DV disabled.


----------



## patels922

zaselim said:


> No not that much but yeah a little, I see dust particles above the projector's lens cover area when it is on. Actually my AC is on the left wall right next to where the screen is and even though I have shifted the air's way to the right but i think some of the air does go down to the projector and some of the dust particles get attach to the lens cover. Its been 2 weeks since i last cleaned the lens cover and it's still clean. To be fair I only turned it on 3 times counting today (just finished watching John Wick 1) since i last cleaned it. I also custom made the projector cover (2 to 3 inches bigger from all sides, which covers the whole T1 but open from the back because of the cables and firestick 4k max) with table and T1 is covered when I am not using it and my usage is also below average like i don't turn it on daily or even for days. I only need to clean the cover once a week when I use it daily and I use it from 4 to 5 to 6 hrs continuously when i turn it on. I also place micro fiber cloth over he projector before covering it up with the T1's wood cover that I made to make sure that it remains cleans as long as possible. Yes i am super cautious lol, and like my stuff super clean.



Contemplating doing something similar, Would you have pictures?


----------



## MrGrimble

I may have an option to buy a used motorized ALR screen with 0.8 gain.
I understand that 0.6 is more recommended for UST projectors and I still have a 1.0 white screen, so is there any advantages to going with a 0.8 gain screen?


----------



## ProjectionHead

MrGrimble said:


> I may have an option to buy a used motorized ALR screen with 0.8 gain.
> I understand that 0.6 is more recommended for UST projectors and I still have a 1.0 white screen, so is there any advantages to going with a 0.8 gain screen?


It may not even be 0.8 as often times that number is not accurately advertised. For the ones that I have seen you have less black levels and ALR


----------



## zaselim

patels922 said:


> Contemplating doing something similar, Would you have pictures?


of the cover? These are the photos i took when i made both the stand table and the cover when i was setting it up in the room.


Spoiler




























And these I just took now.


Spoiler


----------



## zaselim

RickMes said:


> I was thinking of using just a near-sized dust cover, but after reading your precautions, I am thinking that maybe it's better to better protect like you did. I will be placing it in my living room which has full access to my 4 year old son (fingers crossed!).
> 
> So, but you think that the inside the optics system is protected enough to avoid interior dust in the projector?


That i am not sure of, sorry.


----------



## manwithnoname

Sincere apologies for not posting these photos earlier, but I had purchased the T1 Cover from Best Amp Covers earlier this year, and neglected to post. 

On one hand, I think the product is perfect in that it does everything it sets out to do. It blocks dust, and helps protect the lens/glass of the projector, and it has a nice rear cut-out that allows the cover to be set on top of the projector very easily without affecting the cables coming from the rear of the projector. It also has a great height to it that allows it to feel snug and protective, while resting on the same surface that the projector sits on.

The material on the top and sides seems very durable, and most likely waterproof. The interior material is a nice velvety plush feeling cloth that should avoid marring or blemishing the projector in any way.

On the other hand, my primary issue with it (and why I no longer use it) is that the material has limited rigidity to it, so when I take the cover off, I don't really have a place to store it. It kinda just crumples up opon itself unless you have some flat location to set it out of the way. And when it folds, it affects the look of the cover, as it will show the fold-lines. For a while I was setting it on the floor next to the projector, but it just looked like an eyesore (and coincidentally became a cat-hair magnet as my cats seem to think it makes a nice cat bed...)

With all that being said, taking into consideration the dust issues people have been mentioning over the past few posts, it seems something like this may be a 100% functional must-have for those with dust problems as it will do a great job covering your T1.

I completely recognize that my complaints are strictly with the "when not in use" functionality of it, so if you dont care about that, this is probably a perfect solution for keeping dust and other things off of the projector.


----------



## zaselim

So guys, this HDMI shake think where you have to back and forth select 2.0-2.1 to get full 4k/60. It is not working on HDMI 3 for me (getting 4k/30) and nothing happens when i select 2.0 or 2.1 back and forth. My system and consoles are connected to my home theatre receiver and receiver is connected to T1 on hdmi 3 so I can get eARC support for my Firestick which is in Hdmi 1. If i connect my home theatre to hdmi 2 or 1 for that matter then the hdmi shake works but it is not working on hdmi 3. Did you guys notice that and if you did then did you came up with any fix? or is there a way through eARC to work on hdmi 2/1 as well?


----------



## rjyap

zaselim said:


> So guys, this HDMI shake think where you have to back and forth select 2.0-2.1 to get full 4k/60. It is not working on HDMI 3 for me (getting 4k/30) and nothing happens when i select 2.0 or 2.1 back and forth. My system and consoles are connected to my home theatre receiver and receiver is connected to T1 on hdmi 3 so I can get eARC support for my Firestick which is in Hdmi 1. If i connect my home theatre to hdmi 2 or 1 for that matter then the hdmi shake works but it is not working on hdmi 3. Did you guys notice that and if you did then did you came up with any fix? or is there a way through eARC to work on hdmi 2/1 as well?


It's working on HDMI 3 thru RTX 3080 PC. My detection rate is 80% for 4k/60.


----------



## zaselim

rjyap said:


> It's working on HDMI 3 thru RTX 3080 PC. My detection rate is 80% for 4k/60.


It works for me if i use a single display (just T1) but doesn't (4k/30, 3840x2160/30 and 4096x2160/25) when i use my dual/clone setup. It works for hdmi 1 and 2 though. I have connected my fire stick 4k max to my receiver now, i had to replace it with one of my consoles (all 4 input were filled). But i really need a fix for it or I'll have to connect 1 input back and forth or I'll have to get a hdmi switcher.
It is strange that It is not working for hdmi 3, usually when you select any of 1.4, 2.0 or 2.1 the screen blinks for a sec to get a proper signal but when i am using my dual display it doesn't and no amount of restarts of T1 fix it and remains the same.


----------



## rjyap

zaselim said:


> It works for me if i use a single display (just T1) but doesn't (4k/30, 3840x2160/30 and 4096x2160/25) when i use my dual/clone setup. It works for hdmi 1 and 2 though. I have connected my fire stick 4k max to my receiver now, i had to replace it with one of my consoles (all 4 input were filled). But i really need a fix for it or I'll have to connect 1 input back and forth or I'll have to get a hdmi switcher.
> It is strange that It is not working for hdmi 3, usually when you select any of 1.4, 2.0 or 2.1 the screen blinks for a sec to get a proper signal but when i am using my dual display it doesn't and no amount of restarts of T1 fix it and remains the same.


HDMI handshake is a major headache as the whole chain need to recognize the highest format supported. At anytime if you connected 2 output device together, the lowest common denominator will determine the format supported. In my case, I previously had my old Optoma HD83 connected to receiver second HDMI output and doesn't allow 4K output (with projector not turn on) until the receiver is program to disable second HDMI output.


----------



## donw

MrGrimble said:


> I may have an option to buy a used motorized ALR screen with 0.8 gain.
> I understand that 0.6 is more recommended for UST projectors and I still have a 1.0 white screen, so is there any advantages to going with a 0.8 gain screen?


Make sure it is an ALR built for UST, as there are ALR for long throw that will not work for UST.


----------



## 3sprit

ALR vs. CLR Screens: A 101 Guide


Light-rejection screens allow you to watch content on your projector in a well-lit room. What are ALR and CLR screens? How do they differ from each other?




pointerclicker.com


----------



## zaselim

rjyap said:


> HDMI handshake is a major headache as the whole chain need to recognize the highest format supported. At anytime if you connected 2 output device together, the lowest common denominator will determine the format supported. In my case, I previously had my old Optoma HD83 connected to receiver second HDMI output and doesn't allow 4K output (with projector not turn on) until the receiver is program to disable second HDMI output.


In my case both of my displays (T1 and Samsung 4k HDR10+ TV) support same resolution and hertz and so are my cables ( pc to TV: 4k/60, PC to Receiver: 4k/60, Receiver to T1: 8k/60-4k/120) and tested on other displays as well. The issue here is T1's HDMI 3 port and hdmi handshake. The cloned displays themselves (when TV as a source) show 4k/60 in the resolution window on my displays but while it feels proper on my TV, it feels laggy/slower (30hz) on my T1 and (T1 as source) both gets down to 30hz in resolution window as well. But its not happening on HDMI 2 or 1 for that matter so it is just the HDMI 3 port. To be honest aside from 1-2 times I never had hdmi shake problem when i was using HDMI 2 port (which i think was on hdmi 3 port as well because when i setup the T1 for the 1st time i connected the cable in hdmi 3) before i got firestick 4k max last month and since i only used T1 for a 4 to 5 times max including yesterday (1st time on PC since plugging the receiver connection into HDMI 3 port) when i noticed the hertz because in that time i was only using Firestick (HDMI 1) with T1.
So I think the handshake issue is mostly in HDMI 3.


----------



## Meu Tech Mundo

humax said:


> Further info on the international version from Gregory's blog by Brazilian user Luiz. If I am not mistaken he is the guy with the following YouTube channel, who interviewed the Fengmi manager couple of months back: Meu Tech Mundo - YouTube
> 
> "UPDATE THE INFORMATION I HAVE:
> 
> It seems that in addition to the traditional color we will also have White, Yellow, Blue and Red (To integrate with the decoration)
> It will be the first laser TV with ANDROID 11.
> My price guess for the first 3 months is $2890
> Formovie is ambitious!
> I have here a fixed XY pet crystal 100" alr (Marvelous), a Vividstorm 100" Alr (Good screen), a Screen Pro (Super thin frame but bad fabric) and a Fury (Brazillian ALR screen – Better than Screen Pro)"


Nice to see your post. I am Luiz!


----------



## antjes

Any news about beta firmware???

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## spocky12

antjes said:


> Any news about beta firmware???
> 
> Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


The latest private beta still seems to be 2.1.2.2552 which was released more than one month ago


----------



## antjes

spocky12 said:


> The latest private beta still seems to be 2.1.2.2552 which was released more than one month ago


Thanks spocky12.
I wish they are working on improving this firmware....

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## clipghost

Can someone here recommend me a good quality 120" ALR Screen? I keep hearing about Spectra and XY Pet Crystal the most. I definitely want below $2000 but also want to pick a good option that will work well with ambient light during the day. Thanks so much!


----------



## donw

clipghost said:


> Can someone here recommend me a good quality 120" ALR Screen? I keep hearing about Spectra and XY Pet Crystal the most. I definitely want below $2000 but also want to pick a good option that will work well with ambient light during the day. Thanks so much!


Fixed, rising, roll-down?


----------



## clipghost

donw said:


> Fixed, rising, roll-down?


At the moment Fixed. If I’m spending $2000+ on a screen then it’ll be floor rising. But trying to avoid


----------



## donw

M0j0 and several others have been happy with XY Pet Crystal. I needed a 120" roll-down, and XY did not make one at the time. So I went with ScreenPro direct from China, on the slow boat...literally. But I only paid $1400 shipped. It's not bad, but I do see "hot spots" if I have the brightness up too far.


----------



## m0j0

donw said:


> M0j0 and several others have been happy with XY Pet Crystal. I needed a 120" roll-down, and XY did not make one at the time. So I went with ScreenPro direct from China, on the slow boat...literally. But I only paid $1400 shipped. It's not bad, but I do see "hot spots" if I have the brightness up too far.


PET Crystal is a good ALR screen with this projector. However, it's only able to handle so much ambient light without getting washed out, so don't go in with the expectation that you can have full light and still get an amazing picture. If you want to watch in daylight, you need to get some blinds/curtains and reduce the light as much as possible.


----------



## clipghost

m0j0 said:


> PET Crystal is a good ALR screen with this projector. However, it's only able to handle so much ambient light without getting washed out, so don't go in with the expectation that you can have full light and still get an amazing picture. If you want to watch in daylight, you need to get some blinds/curtains and reduce the light as much as possible.


Can you post any day time pics by any chance?


----------



## m0j0

clipghost said:


> Can you post any day time pics by any chance?


Look through this thread and you will see some. I no longer have the projector.


----------



## clipghost

m0j0 said:


> Look through this thread and you will see some. I no longer have the projector.


Why did you end up getting rid of it? I thought you were a big fan of it?


----------



## m0j0

Here's two daytime pics with good light control (blinds closed up so only a little ambient light in the room)


----------



## m0j0

clipghost said:


> Why did you end up getting rid of it? I thought you were a big fan of it?


I am a fan of the T1, don't get me wrong. I just decided after almost 2 years using a UST as the primary TV in the living room that it was time for me to go back to a more traditional setup. The room really gets a lot of ambient light normally and it just makes the place a bit dark and dreary to have to close up all the blinds all the time. I bought an 85" mini-led TV that has plenty of brightness to handle a lot of sunlight / overall daytime brightness, so now the family can keep all the blinds open and still get to enjoy the TV during the day. Sure, it's a bit smaller, but the brightness and better black levels make up for it.


----------



## clipghost

m0j0 said:


> I am a fan of the T1, don't get me wrong. I just decided after almost 2 years using a UST as the primary TV in the living room that it was time for me to go back to a more traditional setup. The room really gets a lot of ambient light normally and it just makes the place a bit dark and dreary to have to close up all the blinds all the time. I bought an 85" mini-led TV that has plenty of brightness to handle a lot of sunlight / overall daytime brightness, so now the family can keep all the blinds open and still get to enjoy the TV during the day. Sure, it's a bit smaller, but the brightness and better black levels make up for it.


Ah man this is my situation right now. Trying to make the T1 work in daytime before I buy, make sure its nice for the family. In the end you gave up on that option ey?


----------



## m0j0

clipghost said:


> Ah man this is my situation right now. Trying to make the T1 work in daytime before I buy, make sure its nice for the family. In the end you gave up on that option ey?


When I started this journey, I had a 65 inch Samsung LED in the living room and replaced it with a 100" UST projector. The size difference was so compelling that I was willing to live with the compromises. However, being able to afford a high quality 85" TV in that space now compared to the 100" screen size really made me re-examine the situation. It was a tough decision to be completely honest. In the afternoon and evening, I absolutely LOVED the picture on my T1 in the living room. But no UST is really going to be on par with a good TV in full daytime viewing, that's just the nature of the technology. Those folks that have full light control can easily go with a UST, but not as easy for those with a lot of ambient light. It is a question of your viewing habits (do you watch mostly at night or in the evening), light control options (can you use curtains/blinds to control the light or board up the windows), where is the light coming from (far away or in the same room as the projector), can you live with a slightly washed out picture during the daytime, etc.? For the better part of 2 years, I did feel like I could make it work and did, but the price reductions and technology advancements on mini-led TV's that have come out in the past 2 years just became too compelling for me to ignore.


----------



## clipghost

m0j0 said:


> When I started this journey, I had a 65 inch Samsung LED in the living room and replaced it with a 100" UST projector. The size difference was so compelling that I was willing to live with the compromises. However, being able to afford a high quality 85" TV in that space now compared to the 100" screen size really made me re-examine the situation. It was a tough decision to be completely honest. In the afternoon and evening, I absolutely LOVED the picture on my T1 in the living room. But no UST is really going to be on par with a good TV in full daytime viewing, that's just the nature of the technology. Those folks that have full light control can easily go with a UST, but not as easy for those with a lot of ambient light. It is a question of your viewing habits (do you watch mostly at night or in the evening), light control options (can you use curtains/blinds to control the light or board up the windows), where is the light coming from (far away or in the same room as the projector), can you live with a slightly washed out picture during the daytime, etc.? For the better part of 2 years, I did feel like I could make it work and did, but the price reductions and technology advancements on mini-led TV's that have come out in the past 2 years just became too compelling for me to ignore.


Thank you for this write up! Did you end up selling your T1/Screen? Or return it?


----------



## m0j0

clipghost said:


> Thank you for this write up! Did you end up selling your T1/Screen? Or return it?


I sold the T1 and have the screen for sale but haven't sold yet.


----------



## DesertDog

clipghost said:


> Ah man this is my situation right now. Trying to make the T1 work in daytime before I buy, make sure its nice for the family. In the end you gave up on that option ey?


I'll echo a bit of what @m0j0 was saying. I have the Global version and love it but I would not buy it if my main use was daytime and in a room that I didn't have light control over. I'd go for a TV instead. At least with my quality tolerance levels. My room is at about 15 lux with the lights on (Hue lights dimmed down) and it's about the max I'd want to go. The picture is already a bit dull compared to lights out. I wouldn't want to go into a brighter room.


----------



## clipghost

DesertDog said:


> I'll echo a bit of what @m0j0 was saying. I have the Global version and love it but I would not buy it if my main use was daytime and in a room that I didn't have light control over. I'd go for a TV instead. At least with my quality tolerance levels. My room is at about 15 lux with the lights on (Hue lights dimmed down) and it's about the max I'd want to go. The picture is already a bit dull compared to lights out. I wouldn't want to go into a brighter room.


Thanks! What screen are you using with your T1? Any daytime pics as well?


----------



## DesertDog

clipghost said:


> Thanks! What screen are you using with your T1? Any daytime pics as well?


I'm using ScreenPro's 120" floor rising ALR, it's .8 gain. No pictures yet. Maybe this weekend. I've still been setting up my room for the switch from a TV to it and haven't taken any yet. Daytime won't really matter with me either. The light's on is the brightest conditions for the room. Since it's only for HT I boxed in the window with acoustic panels and then put a blackout curtain over them. The room only gets a 3 or 4 lux during the day coming in through the 6' entry to it.


----------



## donw

m0j0 said:


> Look through this thread and you will see some. I no longer have the projector.


Hope you check around here some times, though. Thank you for introducing me to the T1; we're loving ours!


----------



## m0j0

donw said:


> Hope you check around here some times, though. Thank you for introducing me to the T1; we're loving ours!


I will look in from time to time for sure!


----------



## ProFragger

clipghost said:


> Can someone here recommend me a good quality 120" ALR Screen? I keep hearing about Spectra and XY Pet Crystal the most. I definitely want below $2000 but also want to pick a good option that will work well with ambient light during the day. Thanks so much!


+1 for a PET Crystal screen and a shameless plug of mine for sale 😊:









120" ALR UST Projector Screen VAVA, AWOL, Hisense...


Selling my Wemax 120" ALR screen (Ambient Light Rejecting) screen, designed for UST (Ultra Short Throw) projectors. This one is branded by Wemax (Xiaomi), but is the same screen VAVA, AWOL, Hisense use. Wemax is a supplier for VAVA and AWOL. The details of the screen can be seen here...




www.avsforum.com





I have someone possibly buying tomorrow morning, but feel free to ask any questions if I don't mark it sold. Good luck! 😊 

T1 is awesome BTW!


----------



## clipghost

ProFragger said:


> +1 for a PET Crystal screen and a shameless plug of mine for sale 😊:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 120" ALR UST Projector Screen VAVA, AWOL, Hisense...
> 
> 
> Selling my Wemax 120" ALR screen (Ambient Light Rejecting) screen, designed for UST (Ultra Short Throw) projectors. This one is branded by Wemax (Xiaomi), but is the same screen VAVA, AWOL, Hisense use. Wemax is a supplier for VAVA and AWOL. The details of the screen can be seen here...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have someone possibly buying tomorrow morning, but feel free to ask any questions if I don't mark it sold. Good luck! 😊
> 
> T1 is awesome BTW!


I’m confused, yours is a WEMAX not XY Screens Pet Crystal.

also how you liking the T1? Why sell?


----------



## MRJAZZZ

m0j0 said:


> I will look in from time to time for sure!


What projector, if you don't mind sharing, did you go to?


----------



## swehr

Anyone have the USB 12V trigger working with the T1 and Vividstorm floor rising screen? I’ve had my Vividstorm floor rising screen for a couple of years with a Optoma P1 and the trigger worked great. Just got the Formovie Theater and the trigger doesn’t seem to work now. Figure if perhaps a newer version of the trigger works with the T1 it should work with the Theater?


----------



## m0j0

MRJAZZZ said:


> What projector, if you don't mind sharing, did you go to?


I went to an 85" Samsung QN90A Neo QLED TV as the room has a lot of ambient light and wanted something that would more effectively match the lighting conditions in the room.


----------



## clipghost

m0j0 said:


> I went to an 85" Samsung QN90A Neo QLED TV as the room has a lot of ambient light and wanted something that would more effectively match the lighting conditions in the room.


I can understand everyone freaking out about you jumping ship. The reason I even wanted to give the T1 a shot was because of your pictures! To hear you are leaving it, makes me second guess my choice badly.


----------



## Dawn Gordon

m0j0 said:


> When I started this journey, I had a 65 inch Samsung LED in the living room and replaced it with a 100" UST projector. The size difference was so compelling that I was willing to live with the compromises. However, being able to afford a high quality 85" TV in that space now compared to the 100" screen size really made me re-examine the situation. It was a tough decision to be completely honest. In the afternoon and evening, I absolutely LOVED the picture on my T1 in the living room. But no UST is really going to be on par with a good TV in full daytime viewing, that's just the nature of the technology. Those folks that have full light control can easily go with a UST, but not as easy for those with a lot of ambient light. It is a question of your viewing habits (do you watch mostly at night or in the evening), light control options (can you use curtains/blinds to control the light or board up the windows), where is the light coming from (far away or in the same room as the projector), can you live with a slightly washed out picture during the daytime, etc.? For the better part of 2 years, I did feel like I could make it work and did, but the price reductions and technology advancements on mini-led TV's that have come out in the past 2 years just became too compelling for me to ignore.


No need to board up the windows.  A good blackout cellular, or roller shade with side channels can do a really great job of preventing the light from coming into the room. There are also motorized options from companies such as Lutron and Hunter Douglas.


----------



## ProFragger

clipghost said:


> I’m confused, yours is a WEMAX not XY Screens Pet Crystal.
> 
> also how you liking the T1? Why sell?


Selling cause 120" is too big for me. Love my T1!

The PET Crystal fabric is made by the same company in Taiwan and anyone reselling it with their frames, branding etc, are buying the same screen, just making small marketing, packaging, frame tweaks to sell. Examples, XY Screens, VAVA, AWOL, Wemax. Wemax is just Fengmi in the US and supply the whole thing for VAVA and AWOL.


----------



## clipghost

ProFragger said:


> Selling cause 120" is too big for me. Love my T1!
> 
> The PET Crystal fabric is made by the same company in Taiwan and anyone reselling it with their frames, branding etc, are buying the same screen, just making small marketing, packaging, frame tweaks to sell. Examples, XY Screens, VAVA, AWOL, Wemax. Wemax is just Fengmi in the US and supply the whole thing for VAVA and AWOL.


Do you think the Wemax version is built well? Like what are you getting for your next screen for example?


----------



## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> When I started this journey, I had a 65 inch Samsung LED in the living room and replaced it with a 100" UST projector. The size difference was so compelling that I was willing to live with the compromises. However, being able to afford a high quality 85" TV in that space now compared to the 100" screen size really made me re-examine the situation. It was a tough decision to be completely honest. In the afternoon and evening, I absolutely LOVED the picture on my T1 in the living room. But no UST is really going to be on par with a good TV in full daytime viewing, that's just the nature of the technology. Those folks that have full light control can easily go with a UST, but not as easy for those with a lot of ambient light. It is a question of your viewing habits (do you watch mostly at night or in the evening), light control options (can you use curtains/blinds to control the light or board up the windows), where is the light coming from (far away or in the same room as the projector), can you live with a slightly washed out picture during the daytime, etc.? For the better part of 2 years, I did feel like I could make it work and did, but the price reductions and technology advancements on mini-led TV's that have come out in the past 2 years just became too compelling for me to ignore.


Whoa. The earth is shaking. And from such an accomplished poster who tinkered daily with his T1! Your contributions will be missed. I still think that an electronic screen over a large OLED TV is the best way to go. I saw a miniLED TV at Best Buy this past weekend and I wasn’t impressed. Maybe it wasn’t dialed in right. Funny - I saw an A80J 77” TV from Sony that had the best picture. Go figure. For our next house, I’m going to try and see if I can fit a regular throw projector with the largest, electronic ”CinemaScope“ screen I can find. A projector with lens memory, for sure. Or, if we have the room, just a large, fixed screen with a separate room and an OLED TV. Perhaps the T1 with a fixed screen, as well. Or, move that to the bedroom with my existing WEMAX screen that is very good at night. It would be easier to treat a bedroom wall with some velvet covering as opposed to having that in the living room. Decisions decisions. But not for a while.

Personally - no amount of black level or brightness of a TV will ever trump the size and experience of a projector and large screen. At least for me.


----------



## ProFragger

clipghost said:


> Do you think the Wemax version is built well? Like what are you getting for your next screen for example?


Yes it is, based on all the videos I've watched studied for assembly and install with XY Screens and all. Pair that with the price we're paying for that size and screen quality (I know nowhere near the best when you go $2K or up), it was an amazing bang for a buck for me. And honestly, why would this be surprising? Wemax has the manufacturing scale and knowledge of Xiaomi... Why wouldn't they kick butt with economies of scale and all? 😊

Next (old screen) is just a VAVA screen from Walmart. It's 100". The price was good and strictly speaking frame wise... The VAVA 100" (maybe be different from the 120" Wemax) has solid design and support for the frame. It's quite well done!

EDIT: The 100" model from VAVA maybe the PET Grid fabric, not PET Crystal, so be leary. 

Wemax 120"ALR does seem to face the most forgiving mounting system, especially on the X Axis.

Good luck with your research and choice!


----------



## Ricoflashback

ProFragger said:


> Yes it is, based on all the videos I've watched studied for assembly and install with XY Screens and all. Pair that with the price we're paying for that size and screen quality (I know nowhere near the best when you go $2K or up), it was an amazing bang for a buck for me. And honestly, why would this be surprising? Wemax has the manufacturing scale and knowledge of Xiaomi... Why wouldn't they kick butt with economies of scale and all? 😊
> 
> Next (old screen) is just a VAVA screen from Walmart. It's 100". The price was good and strictly speaking frame wise... The VAVA 100" (maybe be different from the 120" Wemax) has solid design and support for the frame. It's quite well done!
> 
> EDIT: The 100" model from VAVA maybe the PET Grid fabric, not PET Crystal, so be leary.
> 
> Wemax 120"ALR does seem to face the most forgiving mounting system, especially on the X Axis.
> 
> Good luck with your research and choice!


Nice post. I have the WEMAX 100” that I bought at the ridiculously low price of $399 during Amazon days. The adjustment brackets from left to right (horizontal placement) are superb. I’ve read and heard some negative comments about the WEMAX screens and their quality but honestly, it has been a stellar performer for me. Especially at night. I’m not sure if there would be a great difference in picture quality if I had bought a screen that was 5X the price.

All lenticular screens, IMHO, are a compromise and washed out during the day with ambient light coming in. I had the screen professionally installed. I had a bunch of springs left over but my installers were pros. Tight screen and they were in and out of here, screen installed on the wall, in less than 90 minutes. The frame isn’t as solid as others and a heavier duty frame from Spectra or even SilverTicket might last longer but I liked the lower weight of the WEMAX screen as we are renting.


----------



## rooterha

If anyone is in the USA and wants a T1, PM me. Flexible on the price. Just sitting here packed up since I got the global one.


----------



## ProFragger

Ricoflashback said:


> Nice post. I have the WEMAX 100” that I bought at the ridiculously low price of $399 during Amazon days. The adjustment brackets from left to right (horizontal placement) are superb. I’ve read and heard some negative comments about the WEMAX screens and their quality but honestly, it has been a stellar performer for me. Especially at night. I’m not sure if there would be a great difference in picture quality if I had bought a screen that was 5X the price.
> 
> All lenticular screens, IMHO, are a compromise and washed out during the day with ambient light coming in. I had the screen professionally installed. I had a bunch of springs left over but my installers were pros. Tight screen and they were in and out of here, screen installed on the wall, in less than 90 minutes. The frame isn’t as solid as others and a heavier duty frame from Spectra or even SilverTicket might last longer but I liked the lower weight of the WEMAX screen as we are renting.


Great post yourself, bud! I couldn't agree more with everything you said! Seems to me like an unbelievable value compared to the XY Screens option! Granted, they have an option for a CBSP PET Crystal, but you net around 1K to 1100ish for that screen for perhaps, nominal improvement in contrast.


----------



## ProFragger

rooterha said:


> If anyone is in the USA and wants a T1, PM me. Flexible on the price. Just sitting here packed up since I got the global one.


Oh no another valuable member of the T1 community leaving... What's the reason to leave, my friend?


----------



## zaselim

Sad to see you guys go, Yeah when going for any projector (short or traditional throw) you first have to consider your space where you'll be setting it up. As for me, I set it up in my gaming/media room and it is pretty dark even during the days. The only light that comes in (from half inch gap) is from under the door which is nothing (and i also have blocked it when I don't need to open the door) so i enjoy the T1 even during as the same as i do in the evenings.
I'll be sticking with my T1 (at least for 4-5 or may be 6 yrs) until i magically get the means to get JVC NZ9 or Samsun's 120" 4k TV lol.

To be honest I am not surprised for M0j0 selling his T1 because when i saw the regular updating of settings up and down over the months then I frequently said to myself "Man this guy is gonna sell his T1 or move on from it for some reason and he'll go for a TV" lol. You'll be missed bro.


----------



## RickMes

zaselim said:


> Sad to see you guys go, Yeah when going for any projector (short or traditional throw) you first have to consider your space where you'll be setting it up. As for me, I set it up in my gaming/media room and it is pretty dark even during the days. The only light that comes in (from half inch gap) is from under the door which is nothing (and i also have blocked it when I don't need to open the door) so i enjoy the T1 even during as the same as i do in the evenings.
> I'll be sticking with my T1 (at least for 4-5 or may be 6 yrs) until i magically get the means to get JVC NZ9 or Samsun's 120" 4k TV lol.
> 
> To be honest I am not surprised for M0j0 selling his T1 because when i saw the regular updating of settings up and down over the months then I frequently said to myself "Man this guy is gonna sell his T1 or move on from it for some reason and he'll go for a TV" lol. You'll be missed bro.


Well, finger's crossed here as I am still anxiously waiting for my "Super Early-Bird" Theater (global!) which will replace my TV in my living room. Supposedly will ship on the 1st of September, hopefully already from the european warehouse.


----------



## DeOxidizer

GaeIta80 said:


> Hey guys, just sharing a solution I might have found with an IKEA cabinet (Metod/Maximera) while waiting for my Vividstorm UST screen.
> 
> Having a little 3 years old boy and a fussy gf, it was the only way to make it work!
> 
> Will just finish it up with a white top cover and fixing the cabinet to the wall
> 
> P.s. I noticed that bringing down Saturation to 44 with Greg's settings gives a great balance across both SDR and HDR content
> 
> View attachment 3242576


I am a little woried about enough air to cool the projector. 
Maybe drilling about 12cm (4-5 inch) hole on each side will give your solution more air for cooling


----------



## 3sprit

ProFragger said:


> What's the reason to leave, my friend?


If I am not mistaken, he purchased the "global" version. 🤷‍♂️🙂😎


----------



## clipghost

tovaxxx said:


> Setup is ready except for the 120" Vividstorm. In the upper board comes an opening for the laser.
> 
> View attachment 3242613
> 
> View attachment 3242612


Any more pics of your setup with the Vividstorm now? Is it in front of the TV? Or did you remove the TV?


----------



## rooterha

ProFragger said:


> Oh no another valuable member of the T1 community leaving... What's the reason to leave, my friend?


I bought the T1 Global... not leaving the T1


----------



## zaselim

rooterha said:


> I bought the T1 Global... not leaving the T1


So how much of a quality difference is between Original and Global version?


----------



## ProFragger

zaselim said:


> So how much of a quality difference is between Original and Global version?


This thread may give you an idea... People seem to love their CMS, lobster skin in DV correction and maybe even focus issue fixed. So overall the tone mapping is apparently, much sweeter...









Formovie Theater - Enhanced Global / International...


No, I don't have the Global, so can't try your settings for myself. I just think it's awesome that you posted full calibration values with all the high quality equipment you used for everyone to enjoy who has the Global T1. Wished you could have done the same with the Chinese T1, but that's...




www.avsforum.com






Meanwhile, we haven't seen an OTA on the Chinese version in many months and there don't seem to be any signs of it either, other than a beta where I think the DV issue and the handshake issue is still prevalent...


----------



## zaselim

ProFragger said:


> This thread may give you an idea... People seem to love their CMS, lobster skin in DV correction and maybe even focus issue fixed. So overall the tone mapping is apparently, much sweeter...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Formovie Theater - Enhanced Global / International...
> 
> 
> No, I don't have the Global, so can't try your settings for myself. I just think it's awesome that you posted full calibration values with all the high quality equipment you used for everyone to enjoy who has the Global T1. Wished you could have done the same with the Chinese T1, but that's...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, we haven't seen an OTA on the Chinese version in many months and there don't seem to be any signs of it either, other than a beta where I think the DV issue and the handshake issue is still prevalent...


So any one got the new beta after the official firmware 2? It's strange the they are not working for the firmware of their original version and i assume their own people (Chinese owners) have the original model as well.


----------



## Lion DD

swehr said:


> Anyone have the USB 12V trigger working with the T1 and Vividstorm floor rising screen? I’ve had my Vividstorm floor rising screen for a couple of years with a Optoma P1 and the trigger worked great. Just got the Formovie Theater and the trigger doesn’t seem to work now. Figure if perhaps a newer version of the trigger works with the T1 it should work with the Theater?


Maybe the trigger isn't compatible with your new projector, right? It seems that replacing a new device trigger needs to be re-coded, you can contact the customer service of vivostorm and they will help you


----------



## swehr

Lion DD said:


> Maybe the trigger isn't compatible with your new projector, right? It seems that replacing a new device trigger needs to be re-coded, you can contact the customer service of vivostorm and they will help you


I figure that’s the issue, but I am trying to confirm that anyone has a working USB 12V trigger. I did contact Vividstorm directly and they couldn’t tell me if it the new trigger worked with the T1 or theater. They said they would test and let me know, but haven’t responded yet. They also suggested the wired trigger. I would prefer the wireless USB trigger.


----------



## RazB

DeOxidizer said:


> I am a little woried about enough air to cool the projector.
> Maybe drilling about 12cm (4-5 inch) hole on each side will give your solution more air for cooling


@DeOxidizer 
Hi there, I am a new user on AVS. Unfortunately cannot send you a PM, this feature is still locked for me at this stage.
Since we live in the same country I wanted to ask you a few questions (in regards to this projector of course).
Would appreciate if you can send me a PM with some contact information if that's alright.
Thanks!


----------



## rooterha

Posting again

If anyone in the USA is looking for a T1, I have mine boxed up ready to be shipped out. Make me a reasonable offer and it's yours.


----------



## rw3dkc

Hello. At the beginning of the topic, the problem of red in this projector when using HDR / DV was discussed and a firmware with a solution seems to have been released, but according to the latest messages, I see that the problem remains? Is it so ? It does not depend on the signal source - is there such a problem with HDMI and media / networks? Are there ways to bypass it? A good projector, but such features spoil everything.


----------



## CabbageMan

Hey everyone. I bought the T1 in February and have really enjoyed it, haven't been on the forum since around May. I just saw the global version is out and it looks like there are some good upgrades (android TV, 107% bt 2020, some better gaming features, better calibration settings, etc.) and it won the projectorscreen.com shootout. Is it really that much better? Do you think it would be worth the hassle of trying to sell my T1 to get the global version?


----------



## dami1337

rw3dkc said:


> Hello. At the beginning of the topic, the problem of red in this projector when using HDR / DV was discussed and a firmware with a solution seems to have been released, but according to the latest messages, I see that the problem remains? Is it so ? It does not depend on the signal source - is there such a problem with HDMI and media / networks? Are there ways to bypass it? A good projector, but such features spoil everything.


Yes red push is still an issue even with latest firmware in DV and HDR. “Solution” is to use SDR 4K.


----------



## zoomx2

I would rather to wait for next year or 2 to see any new models out. Global and T1 are software differences. I can't justify losing money and buying a Global for $1000+ I'm still super happy with my T1 SDR 4K with a custom setting. Honestly, I don't really like others calibrated setting too warm for me.


----------



## ProFragger

zoomx2 said:


> I would rather to wait for next year or 2 to see any new models out. Global and T1 are software differences. I can't justify losing money and buying a Global for $1000+ I'm still super happy with my T1 SDR 4K with a custom setting. Honestly, I don't really like others calibrated setting too warm for me.


Same boat as you, can't justify $1K+ for the Global. Have we just accepted that the T1 (Chinese version) just won't get any updates?

P. S. What settings from others are you referring to?


----------



## JereyWolf

zoomx2 said:


> I would rather to wait for next year or 2 to see any new models out. Global and T1 are software differences. I can't justify losing money and buying a Global for $1000+ I'm still super happy with my T1 SDR 4K with a custom setting. Honestly, I don't really like others calibrated setting too warm for me.


I've moved on from a calibrated d65 white balance to using the warm setting which is just a little bit cooler in color temperature. 

I've also been leaving dynamic contrast on. I find it to be helpful in more cases than where it's harmful and it definitely gives a bit more pop to the image.


----------



## zoomx2

Emailed support a few times to complain about the DV bright and dark makes no difference. Added to their list for beta firmware. It has no updated since the last firmware. 😡 I use Fire4kmax for streaming and turning off HDR.


----------



## Brajesh

Having had T1 and now Theater, the differences in PQ and settings are minimal, even after adjustments. Not worth ‘upgrading’ IMHO. Where the difference is better is Theater being easier to use with its menus and Android TV settings. Using HDFury with both, PQ is very similar. I just ended up with Theater after regretting selling T1.

Both are just as finicky with HDMI connectivity and re-synching after refresh rate/resolution changes.


----------



## zoomx2

Since I turn off the HDR on Firestick, the HDMI issue has gone. It sticks on 2160 4K all the time with Dolby Atmos. I have not changed the setting since the last firmware update.


----------



## rjyap

Brajesh said:


> Having had T1 and now Theater, the differences in PQ and settings are minimal, even after adjustments. Not worth ‘upgrading’ IMHO. Where the difference is better is Theater being easier to use with its menus and Android TV settings. Using HDFury with both, PQ is very similar. I just ended up with Theater after regretting selling T1.
> 
> Both are just as finicky with HDMI connectivity and re-synching after refresh rate/resolution changes.


What issue do you encounter with refresh rate/resolution changes? Just an update on HDMI 4K/60 connectivity issue, I didn't encounter this problem for quite sometime. Not sure if this is due to my boot sequence as I set my PC to autoboot first then using Harmony remote the next one to boot up is AV receiver and lastly T1.


----------



## zaselim

rjyap said:


> What issue do you encounter with refresh rate/resolution changes? Just an update on HDMI 4K/60 connectivity issue, I didn't encounter this problem for quite sometime. Not sure if this is due to my boot sequence as I set my PC to autoboot first then using Harmony remote the next one to boot up is AV receiver and lastly T1.


Yes I can also confirm this, as I also said in one of my previous posts that on HDMI 1 and 2 ports there is no HDMI shake issue where you have to refresh it by switching 2.1/2.0. It only appears on HDMI 3 sometimes which can be fixed by switching 2.1/2.0.
I am using mine(T1) since April 2nd and i only encountered the hdmi shake problem only 3-4 or max 5 times and only on HDMI 3.


----------



## ProFragger

Brajesh said:


> Having had T1 and now Theater, the differences in PQ and settings are minimal, even after adjustments. Not worth ‘upgrading’ IMHO. Where the difference is better is Theater being easier to use with its menus and Android TV settings. Using HDFury with both, PQ is very similar. I just ended up with Theater after regretting selling T1.
> 
> Both are just as finicky with HDMI connectivity and re-synching after refresh rate/resolution changes.


Thanks for sharing man. Curious, how did you determine the difference being marginal? Side by side pictures? Measurements? Or just eye test?

Appreciate you contributing your experience!


----------



## ProFragger

zaselim said:


> Yes I can also confirm this, as I also said in one of my previous posts that on HDMI 1 and 2 ports there is no HDMI shake issue where you have to refresh it by switching 2.1/2.0. It only appears on HDMI 3 sometimes which can be fixed by switching 2.1/2.0.
> I am using mine(T1) since April 2nd and i only encountered the hdmi shake problem only 3-4 or max 5 times and only on HDMI 3.


Interesting finding! Thanks. Although for me, and I have only ever used HDMI1 for T1 video, I do rarely see the handshake issue, but it's rare.

Other than the lobster, elevated red skin tones on some DV movies... I think this is the only issue that bothers/exists on my T1.

That and of course the broken focus issue...


----------



## Tanizhq

Anyone know what changes are in the latest beta firmware for the projector? 2.1.2.2552


----------



## Ricoflashback

Brajesh said:


> Having had T1 and now Theater, the differences in PQ and settings are minimal, even after adjustments. Not worth ‘upgrading’ IMHO. Where the difference is better is Theater being easier to use with its menus and Android TV settings. Using HDFury with both, PQ is very similar. I just ended up with Theater after regretting selling T1.
> 
> Both are just as finicky with HDMI connectivity and re-synching after refresh rate/resolution changes.


For those of us in the U.S. - having the ability to buy through an authorized U.S. Distributor (Brian at projectorscreen.com) and handling any customer issues afterwards is a great benefit, IMHO. I can certainly understand the cost considerations but it looks like the original (and fantastic) T1 will have little or zero upgrades or enhancements in the future.


----------



## zoomx2

Tanizhq said:


> Anyone know what changes are in the latest beta firmware for the projector? 2.1.2.2552


That's your firmware version? I'm still at 2889


----------



## zoomx2

I mean 2289


----------



## ACE844

zoomx2 said:


> I mean 2289


Ditto


----------



## dami1337

Quick question regarding connecting the beamer via HDMI to a laptop. Is there any specific player (VLC, etc) or windows settings to get a good image (not extra hardware)? Tried yesterday and video seemed a little bit washed out in terms of colors.

Or better to stream from laptop to ATV?


----------



## Brajesh

ProFragger said:


> Thanks for sharing man. Curious, how did you determine the difference being marginal? Side by side pictures? Measurements? Or just eye test?
> 
> Appreciate you contributing your experience!


Hi, just eye test. Having said this, if buying now, Theater I think is worth it for Android TV OS, more settings/PQ controls, and as @Ricoflashback said, warranty/support we have at least in the U.S. w/projectorscreen.com. Brian & team have been great with my swap-out after dust blob issues. They pre-screen units if you request it so you're getting one as free as possible of dust blobs, focus & geometry issues.


----------



## ProFragger

Ricoflashback said:


> For those of us in the U.S. - having the ability to buy through an authorized U.S. Distributor (Brian at projectorscreen.com) and handling any customer issues afterwards is a great benefit, IMHO. I can certainly understand the cost considerations but it looks like the original (and fantastic) T1 will have little or zero upgrades or enhancements in the future.


How do you know if there will be no updates to the T1?


----------



## Lion DD

swehr said:


> I figure that’s the issue, but I am trying to confirm that anyone has a working USB 12V trigger. I did contact Vividstorm directly and they couldn’t tell me if it the new trigger worked with the T1 or theater. They said they would test and let me know, but haven’t responded yet. They also suggested the wired trigger. I would prefer the wireless USB trigger.


So did you buy a new USB trigger? Can the projector screen run synchronously? The new trigger should be compatible with more projectors than the old trigger, or it will not be updated. lol i don't know😆


----------



## swehr

Lion DD said:


> So did you buy a new USB trigger? Can the projector screen run synchronously? The new trigger should be compatible with more projectors than the old trigger, or it will not be updated. lol i don't know😆


I did buy a new trigger, but apparently I didn’t need to. I didn’t realize the power button only puts the projector to sleep and you have to hold it a few seconds to get it to truly power down. The trigger only gets triggered that way. I also can’t find any option to change the power down/sleep behavior because when using CEC, it only puts it to sleep. I was wanting to just use the Apple TV remote to run everything on and off and have the screen go up and down. You can mostly do it with the projector remote, but sometimes it flakes and it doesn’t always got to the HDMI port of the Apple TV so I have to manually select the input. I created a work around using a smart power plug and Siri shortcut so when I say Siri turn on PJ or turn off PJ the shortcut turns on and off the smart power plug with the trigger plugged into it and then powers on the Apple TV which in turn powers on the Projector via CEC and vice versa.


----------



## ProFragger

swehr said:


> I did buy a new trigger, but apparently I didn’t need to. I didn’t realize the power button only puts the projector to sleep and you have to hold it a few seconds to get it to truly power down. The trigger only gets triggered that way. I also can’t find any option to change the power down/sleep behavior because when using CEC, it only puts it to sleep. I was wanting to just use the Apple TV remote to run everything on and off and have the screen go up and down. You can mostly do it with the projector remote, but sometimes it flakes and it doesn’t always got to the HDMI port of the Apple TV so I have to manually select the input. I created a work around using a smart power plug and Siri shortcut so when I say Siri turn on PJ or turn off PJ the shortcut turns on and off the smart power plug with the trigger plugged into it and then powers on the Apple TV which in turn powers on the Projector via CEC and vice versa.


I was in the same boat as you. Wanted one remote to rule them all, if you will. CEC wasn't perfect. Chromecast + IR was soundbar wasn't perfect.

The closest thing to making most of it work with 1 remote is the Harmony remote with a hub. Theoretically, you can use just the hub, but I recommend a remote with it. Something like a Harmony Ultimate, Companion or Elite will take care of this.

If you ever decide to get one, feel free to contact me. I can walk you through all the little steps I took to make my solution work. I use the T1, Vizio Soundbar and a Google Chromecast.

Good luck!


----------



## manish lowa

I was having this problem before, but I got it fixed, they have a new USB trigger that is compatible with all triggers; it looks the same, seems like the system has been upgraded


----------



## rooterha

If anyone wants the T1 i'll do $1600 shipped today only. Just want it gone from my office. Works perfect, no issues, just replaced with T1 Global.


----------



## antjes

rooterha said:


> If anyone wants the T1 i'll do $1600 shipped today only. Just want it gone from my office. Works perfect, no issues, just replaced with T1 Global.


What a bargain.....

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## ProjectionHead

Check out the latest AVSForum Tech Talk podcast article, it was about the LaserTV Showdown and I was a guest with Rob Sabin & Chris Majestic.









Tech Talk with Scott Wilkinson Episode 10: 2022 UST...


The AVSForum Tech Talk podcast, hosted by resident home theater nerd Scott Wilkinson, is back for another installment. In the video this week, we'll discuss the 2022 UST Projector Shootout. For episode 10, Scott is hosting Rob Sabin, Brian Gluck and Chris Majestic. It all kicks off Tuesday...




www.avsforum.com





I made sure to give the "T1 Brigade" props and a shoutout


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## rjyap

ProjectionHead said:


> Check out the latest AVSForum Tech Talk podcast article, it was about the LaserTV Showdown and I was a guest with Rob Sabin & Chris Majestic.
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> Tech Talk with Scott Wilkinson Episode 10: 2022 UST...
> 
> 
> The AVSForum Tech Talk podcast, hosted by resident home theater nerd Scott Wilkinson, is back for another installment. In the video this week, we'll discuss the 2022 UST Projector Shootout. For episode 10, Scott is hosting Rob Sabin, Brian Gluck and Chris Majestic. It all kicks off Tuesday...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made sure to give the "T1 Brigade" props and a shoutout


Yes Sir! Thank you for not abandoning the Chinese T1 brigade


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## Deanodxb

dami1337 said:


> Quick question regarding connecting the beamer via HDMI to a laptop. Is there any specific player (VLC, etc) or windows settings to get a good image (not extra hardware)? Tried yesterday and video seemed a little bit washed out in terms of colors.
> 
> Or better to stream from laptop to ATV?


VLC on a computer, if you are playing files that way but note that VLC doesn't like all DV encoding and some files will play with a purple tint at the moment. This is a known issue but I'm not up to speed on how or whether VLC will correct it.

If you just need a streamer then try ATV4K with Infuse, Ziddo or the Shield.


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## okvcos

But what happened to Mojo?


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## Dave Harper

okvcos said:


> But what happened to Mojo?


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## m0j0

okvcos said:


> But what happened to Mojo?


I sold my T1. Was considering going to the Global, but couldn't get a good price on it, and then stumbled across a good deal on an 85" Samsung QN90A, which is working out great in the living room.


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## Odysea

Silly question, but are the device preferences “Display” (color tuner etc) what everyone calls “CMS”?

I just want to be sure there isn’t a secret place with a bunch of settings


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## Brajesh

m0j0 said:


> I sold my T1. Was considering going to the Global, but couldn't get a good price on it, and then stumbled across a good deal on an 85" Samsung QN90A, which is working out great in the living room.


Nice, but no DV & 100-to-85"? . I have a Samsung as well, a 75" in a family room & PQ is excellent... although I wish it has DV.


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## ProFragger

Brajesh said:


> Nice, but no DV & 100-to-85"? . I have a Samsung as well, a 75" in a family room & PQ is excellent... although I wish it has DV.


Could the HDFury trick work on a Samsung TV to get DV Support?


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## Dave Harper

Brajesh said:


> Nice, but no DV & 100-to-85"? . I have a Samsung as well, a 75" in a family room & PQ is excellent... although I wish it has DV.





ProFragger said:


> Could the HDFury trick work on a Samsung TV to get DV Support?


Yes it works perfectly. I’ve used it on a Samsung LSP9T UST. 

It works on ANY HDR10 capable display because as far as it knows, it sees just a standard HDR10 signal.


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## m0j0

Brajesh said:


> Nice, but no DV & 100-to-85"? . I have a Samsung as well, a 75" in a family room & PQ is excellent... although I wish it has DV.


100 to 85 isn't too bad honestly. It takes a few days to adjust, and I did move seating forward a little bit. As Dave said, the HDFury works fine for getting DV support on the Samsung and I prefer it to the native HDR implementation of the Samsung.


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## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> 100 to 85 isn't too bad honestly. It takes a few days to adjust, and I did move seating forward a little bit. As Dave said, the HDFury works fine for getting DV support on the Samsung and I prefer it to the native HDR implementation of the Samsung.


Traitor! Just kidding. My ultimate setup would be a 153"/133" Cinemascope screen (electronic) over an 85" TV. Regular PJ, of course. Separate room needed - - which we are trying to include in our new house search! That's the best of both worlds. All personal preference. 85" is fine for the daytime but at night, I want that big screen experience. And, this setup would allow me to place my beastly center channel (Paradigm CC-690) up on a cabinet and elevate it just under the screen so it's closer to ear level. Then, move my GT1 to the bedroom. I'd have to find a room for our dinky 48" OLED.


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## m0j0

Ricoflashback said:


> Traitor! Just kidding. My ultimate setup would be a 153"/133" Cinemascope screen (electronic) over an 85" TV. Regular PJ, of course. Separate room needed - - which we are trying to include in our new house search! That's the best of both worlds. All personal preference. 85" is fine for the daytime but at night, I want that big screen experience. And, this setup would allow me to place my beastly center channel (Paradigm CC-690) up on a cabinet and elevate it just under the screen so it's closer to ear level. Then, move my GT1 to the bedroom. I'd have to find a room for our dinky 48" OLED.


That would be a grand setup indeed! I have the 85 in the living room where there's a lot of ambient light, and it is a good match for that setup. I have a 115" cinemascope screen in the dedicated HT room if I want to watch movies, so I have options...


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## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> That would be a grand setup indeed! I have the 85 in the living room where there's a lot of ambient light, and it is a good match for that setup. I have a 115" cinemascope screen in the dedicated HT room if I want to watch movies, so I have options...


Life is better with options. But I'd have a hard time living without that big screen experience. Especially with Dolby Atmos. It blows away any commercial theater I've ever been too. The popcorn is cheaper, so are the drinks and no waiting for the restrooms. They're easier to find, as well.


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## donw

Ricoflashback said:


> Life is better with options. But I'd have a hard time living without that big screen experience. Especially with Dolby Atmos. It blows away any commercial theater I've ever been too. The popcorn is cheaper, so are the drinks and no waiting for the restrooms. They're easier to find, as well.


You can invite us over to your new place and we will kick the back of your seat...for that true theater experience


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## m0j0

donw said:


> You can invite us over to your new place and we will kick the back of your seat...for that true theater experience


People are such inconsiderate bastards sometimes... We took the kids to see Disney on Ice recently and some dude kept getting up and buying beers and bringing them back, then standing in front of his seat and passing the beers to someone he came with further down the row but not sitting down himself, for literally like 5 minutes straight. Eventually, he went to the stairs just left of his seat and continued to stand (we happened to be in the seats right next to the stairs). It was ridiculous really. I know he didn't care because it's a kids show and his wife probably forced him to go, but dude, realize there are other people in the world and that you're not invisible.... OK, end rant....


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## Ricoflashback

m0j0 said:


> People are such inconsiderate bastards sometimes... We took the kids to see Disney on Ice recently and some dude kept getting up and buying beers and bringing them back, then standing in front of his seat and passing the beers to someone he came with further down the row but not sitting down himself, for literally like 5 minutes straight. Eventually, he went to the stairs just left of his seat and continued to stand (we happened to be in the seats right next to the stairs). It was ridiculous really. I know he didn't care because it's a kids show and his wife probably forced him to go, but dude, realize there are other people in the world and that you're not invisible.... OK, end rant....


Too bad you couldn't have streamed the whole thing on your theater setup. OK - I know that's no where near the largeness of a show like this in person. Somehow, Disney on Ice doesn't inspire me to drink anything outside of a soft drink, tea or hot cocoa. I mean, it's not a football or baseball game where you can yell "give it a ride" or some other sports saying. I'm sure the guy was bored out of his mind but he should have respected the people around him and especially his family (if he had any kids there) and his wife. Even baseball stadiums have "non-alcohol drinking sections."


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## ProFragger

m0j0 said:


> That would be a grand setup indeed! I have the 85 in the living room where there's a lot of ambient light, and it is a good match for that setup. I have a 115" cinemascope screen in the dedicated HT room if I want to watch movies, so I have options...


This guy, theaters!


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## tnaik4

It is insane how good of a picture quality this UST has when used with MadVR!!
For its price i think it might be the best value of all time.
I grabbed some pics while watching the new Thor movie while in motion.


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## rjyap

tnaik4 said:


> It is insane how good of a picture quality this UST has when used with MadVR!!
> For its price i think it might be the best value of all time.
> I grabbed some pics while watching the new Thor movie while in motion.


I just watched Thor and it sucks! Color looks nice on T1 with MadVR but the storyline...


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## tnaik4

rjyap said:


> I just watched Thor and it sucks! Color looks nice on T1 with MadVR but the storyline...


Yes the movie is horrible lol, way too many jokes and most are out of place, but picture quality and sound are top notch.


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## zoomx2

Watch 13 lives on Prime Video, it is HDR+ it shows on my FireStick4k in the developer menu. PQ is very good. It makes me wonder why streaming DV is not quite as good as HDR. So I download a few DV clips and play with Firestick, surprisingly it is excellent. I asked for support to update the firmware as the Global version allows more settings but they said No. The only way is to use Projectivy launcher I guess.


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## Dave Harper

tnaik4 said:


> It is insane how good of a picture quality this UST has when used with MadVR!!
> For its price i think it might be the best value of all time.
> I grabbed some pics while watching the new Thor movie while in motion.


Can you share with me your MadVR settings?


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## JereyWolf

Dave Harper said:


> Can you share with me your MadVR settings?


I created this for another AVS user this weekend and haven't heard back, I'll share this link to my current MadVR settings too. I'm hoping the permissions are correct to allow anyone to view.









MadVR Settings 9/2022







docs.google.com


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## Dave Harper

JereyWolf said:


> I created this for another AVS user this weekend and haven't heard back, I'll share this link to my current MadVR settings too. I'm hoping the permissions are correct to allow anyone to view.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MadVR Settings 9/2022
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> docs.google.com


Wow thank you so much! Can you also share your PC specs? I’m using a 12th gen Intel i3 with an nVidia RTX-3070Ti and a BlackMagic DeckLink Quad and I can’t stop the micro-stutters and frame drops for some reason. Plus my color tweaks for fire and explosions and highlight recovery options are greyed out and I don’t know why. 

Can a slightly under powered power supply affect performance of MadVR?

We can do this via PM so we don’t go too far off topic.


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## rjyap

Dave Harper said:


> Can you share with me your MadVR settings?


Here's my settings using latest MadVR 164b.

Note that if you set the display already calibrated to DCI-P3, then you need to reduce saturation to 45. If you set to Rec 2020, then increase saturation to 60. The assumption is you already calibrate the white balance and I manage to get around 2.15 gamma using custom RGB. Remember to enable Smooth motion. If you are using MPC-BE or MPC-HC, press ctrl-j to check the performance and render information.


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## Dave Harper

rjyap said:


> Here's my settings using latest MadVR 164b.
> 
> Note that if you set the display already calibrated to DCI-P3, then you need to reduce saturation to 45. If you set to Rec 2020, then increase saturation to 60. The assumption is you already calibrate the white balance and I manage to get around 2.15 gamma using custom RGB. Remember to enable Smooth motion. If you are using MPC-BE or MPC-HC, press ctrl-j to check the performance and render information.
> 
> View attachment 3333467
> 
> View attachment 3333466
> View attachment 3333468


Thank you! What version of MadVR is that? I have to stick with 113 because I’m using VideoProcessor. 

Can someone explain to me what these settings are and do and what they affect when changed? I keep searching for good instructions on MadVR and there’s so many different versions and explanations it’s hard to digest and sort the wheat from the chaff. 










Again, PM is fine.


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## tnaik4

Dave Harper said:


> Can you share with me your MadVR settings?


Sure, i ll share them once i m home.


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## tnaik4

Dave Harper said:


> Thank you! What version of MadVR is that? I have to stick with 113 because I’m using VideoProcessor.
> 
> Can someone explain to me what these settings are and do and what they affect when changed? I keep searching for good instructions on MadVR and there’s so many different versions and explanations it’s hard to digest and sort the wheat from the chaff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, PM is fine.


Dynamic target nit : if u lower this value u get a brighter image , u have to find a balance between pop and contrasty image.
Dynamic clipping : it gives better pop to some highlights but with minimal crushing
No comp limit : lets say u put 100nits, it ll be a pure 1:1 for any frame under 100nits without tone mapping it.
Dont add peake nits : this is mostly for low light projectors, its great if u have a projector that can output max 40-50nits. I dont like it much on mine since i have 70-100nits easily, it washes out the image a little so i keep it off.
Use shadow recovery : this will improve shadow details for the scenes u specify, i dont like it much either because it elevates the black floor sometimes, but it is useful in many cases.

For example u can use "dont add peak nits" but higher the "Dynamic target nits" to 100 it ll be very close to "dont add peak nits" off and "Dynamic target nits" at 50-60.

Thats the beauty of MadVR , its extreemly configurable.

The other settings in the category u mentioned arent extreemly important and are for very specific type of scenes.

If u need more help with other settings PM me, thats the beauty of MadVR, its extreemly configurable to what u like.


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## ProFragger

Hey Guys, 

For you MadVR PC guys... I have a question (or two). I have a Vertex2, but it seems like that doesn't help the DV lobster skin issue and Updates on the T1 seem like a distant hope now, can I, should I consider using a computer I have running as an NVR (Network Video Recorder). 

Specs are:

i7 4770i
16 gb RAM (might be slightly expandable) 
No special graphics card (GPU) - this is where I think my main investment would be. 

Using the running CPU rate is at 5% to 50% (spikes, with the highest ones at 99% for split seconds). Memory hovers at about 24% while the NVR and my SFTP server are running. This is a Windows 10 Professional machine. 

If so, what do you guys think I need to add and is it worth it? 

How much MadVR the software cost? What else will I need? 

Thanks!


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## Dave Harper

tnaik4 said:


> Dynamic target nit : if u lower this value u get a brighter image , u have to find a balance between pop and contrasty image.
> Dynamic clipping : it gives better pop to some highlights but with minimal crushing
> No comp limit : lets say u put 100nits, it ll be a pure 1:1 for any frame under 100nits without tone mapping it.
> Dont add peake nits : this is mostly for low light projectors, its great if u have a projector that can output max 40-50nits. I dont like it much on mine since i have 70-100nits easily, it washes out the image a little so i keep it off.
> Use shadow recovery : this will improve shadow details for the scenes u specify, i dont like it much either because it elevates the black floor sometimes, but it is useful in many cases.
> 
> For example u can use "dont add peak nits" but higher the "Dynamic target nits" to 100 it ll be very close to "dont add peak nits" off and "Dynamic target nits" at 50-60.
> 
> Thats the beauty of MadVR , its extreemly configurable.
> 
> The other settings in the category u mentioned arent extreemly important and are for very specific type of scenes.
> 
> If u need more help with other settings PM me, thats the beauty of MadVR, its extreemly configurable to what u like.


Excellent info, thank you so much! I’ll definitely be contacting you via PM for more questions. 

What version is yours. My GUI isn’t the same as yours. Are you using straight MadVR or paired with VideoProcessor? I don’t have “Don’t add peak nits”.


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## tnaik4

Dave Harper said:


> Excellent info, thank you so much! I’ll definitely be contacting you via PM for more questions.
> 
> What version is yours. My GUI isn’t the same as yours. Are you using straight MadVR or paired with VideoProcessor? I don’t have “Don’t add peak nits”.


I m using straight MadVR with no video processor, ur GUI is different because ur using an older version, in the MadVR tone maping thread new versions are released regularly for testing new settings and improvements, so i always use the latest.

Also u need to go to "trade quality for performace" tab and uncheck everything, looks like u have some settings checked there because highlight recovery and color tweaks are greyed out in ur pic.


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## tnaik4

ProFragger said:


> Hey Guys,
> 
> For you MadVR PC guys... I have a question (or two). I have a Vertex2, but it seems like that doesn't help the DV lobster skin issue and Updates on the T1 seem like a distant hope now, can I, should I consider using a computer I have running as an NVR (Network Video Recorder).
> 
> Specs are:
> 
> i7 4770i
> 16 gb RAM (might be slightly expandable)
> No special graphics card (GPU) - this is where I think my main investment would be.
> 
> Using the running CPU rate is at 5% to 50% (spikes, with the highest ones at 99% for split seconds). Memory hovers at about 24% while the NVR and my SFTP server are running. This is a Windows 10 Professional machine.
> 
> If so, what do you guys think I need to add and is it worth it?
> 
> How much MadVR the software cost? What else will I need?
> 
> Thanks!


MadVR for pc is free, u just need a decent graphics card, i would say a geforce 1080ti would work pretty well for tone mapping, of course a 3090 rtx would be great to max a lot of settings but its not really needed if ur mostly interested in dtm.


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## rjyap

Dave Harper said:


> Excellent info, thank you so much! I’ll definitely be contacting you via PM for more questions.
> 
> What version is yours. My GUI isn’t the same as yours. Are you using straight MadVR or paired with VideoProcessor? I don’t have “Don’t add peak nits”.


I believe the latest version MadVR doesn't work properly with VideoProcessor. The last recommended ver is 113 which doesn't have build in expiry date but Smooth motion is broken.


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## Dave Harper

tnaik4 said:


> I m using straight MadVR with no video processor, ur GUI is different because ur using an older version, in the MadVR tone maping thread new versions are released regularly for testing new settings and improvements, so i always use the latest.
> 
> Also u need to go to "trade quality for performace" tab and uncheck everything, looks like u have some settings checked there because highlight recovery and color tweaks are greyed out in ur pic.


OK that’s what I thought. 

Thanks for answering the question why those settings were greyed out. I was wondering why that was!

If I turn off those compromise settings then I was getting stutters and frame drops. You’d think a 12th Gen CPU and a 3070ti would be enough!



rjyap said:


> I believe the latest version MadVR doesn't work properly with VideoProcessor. The last recommended ver is 113 which doesn't have build in expiry date but Smooth motion is broken.


Yes that’s correct. I’m using V113.


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## tnaik4

Dave Harper said:


> OK that’s what I thought.
> 
> Thanks for answering the question why those settings were greyed out. I was wondering why that was!
> 
> If I turn off those compromise settings then I was getting stutters and frame drops. You’d think a 12th Gen CPU and a 3070ti would be enough!
> 
> 
> 
> Yes that’s correct. I’m using V113.


U are probably not using the correct hardware accelerator, 3070ti is more than enough, u shouldnt get any stutter unless using very high NGU maybe, u have to go in video settings in the player ur using, i use MPC-BE, and chose d3d11.


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## rjyap

Dave Harper said:


> OK that’s what I thought.
> 
> Thanks for answering the question why those settings were greyed out. I was wondering why that was!
> 
> If I turn off those compromise settings then I was getting stutters and frame drops. You’d think a 12th Gen CPU and a 3070ti would be enough!
> 
> 
> 
> Yes that’s correct. I’m using V113.


Make sure smooth motion is turn off for V113. It can cause stuttering.


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## ProFragger

tnaik4 said:


> MadVR for pc is free, u just need a decent graphics card, i would say a geforce 1080ti would work pretty well for tone mapping, of course a 3090 rtx would be great to max a lot of settings but its not really needed if ur mostly interested in dtm.


Thank you for your help. What do you think about the other specs of my PC? Will it suffice, along with the GPU/dedicated Graphics card? Also, what other equipment, adapters etc do I need for my T1 signal pass through this PC? 

@Dave Harper any thoughts on going this PC/MadVR route over the HDFury Vertex2 with the T1? 

Thanks.


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## mattharler

Does anyone know the color space behavior of the T1? I saw in the Formovie Theater thread that @Dave Harper measured that the Color Space 'Auto' setting was always in BT2020 and stretching BT709 way out, while the 'On' setting was properly switching gamuts based on the source. As far as I'm aware, we have no access to any color space settings on the T1, so do we know if its switching properly between 709 and 2020 sources?


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## rjyap

mattharler said:


> Does anyone know the color space behavior of the T1? I saw in the Formovie Theater thread that @Dave Harper measured that the Color Space 'Auto' setting was always in BT2020 and stretching BT709 way out, while the 'On' setting was properly switching gamuts based on the source. As far as I'm aware, we have no access to any color space settings on the T1, so do we know if its switching properly between 709 and 2020 sources?


My measurement show around 89% of Rec2020. You can play with saturation control to bring the color gamut down. I use MadVR so I don't have to switch around the colorspace thru saturation control.


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## rjyap

Here’s some photo with latest MadVR.


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## ba_crane

rjyap said:


> Here’s some photo with latest MadVR.
> 
> View attachment 3334317
> 
> View attachment 3334320
> 
> View attachment 3334319
> 
> View attachment 3334318


Pictures look good
1) how is the contrast/black floor on the T1?
2) how much is Madvr improving the image, 10%, 50%?


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## rjyap

ba_crane said:


> Pictures look good
> 1) how is the contrast/black floor on the T1?
> 2) how much is Madvr improving the image, 10%, 50%?


Contrast is great for T1 DLP unit at the current price point. Black floor I would said it's good for DLP but I do hope it could be better if Fengmi implemented dynamic laser dimming. For very dark scene with 1-2% ADL I do wish for darker black floor such as The Batman movie and staircase scene in 1917. But for majority of the movies, the intrascene contrast are great. 

MadVR is a great software to tweak the video quality. The DTM and ability to tweak the shadow details is a great compliment not only to T1 but other projector too.

My personal recommendation for DLP projector up to USD 5k, it's the unit to beat for year 2022. If your priority is very low black floor, then Epson, Sony or JVC should be your consideration.


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## ba_crane

rjyap said:


> Contrast is great for T1 DLP unit at the current price point. Black floor I would said it's good for DLP but I do hope it could be better if Fengmi implemented dynamic laser dimming. For very dark scene with 1-2% ADL I do wish for darker black floor such as The Batman movie and staircase scene in 1917. But for majority of the movies, the intrascene contrast are great.
> 
> MadVR is a great software to tweak the video quality. The DTM and ability to tweak the shadow details is a great compliment not only to T1 but other projector too.
> 
> My personal recommendation for DLP projector up to USD 5k, it's the unit to beat for year 2022. If your priority is very low black floor, then Epson, Sony or JVC should be your consideration.


I currently have an Epson 5040 and enjoy the picture. The reason I’m considering the T1 is it will allow me to go from 120” screen to 135” screen in my room. But if picture quality is not as good as the 5040 then it’s not worth the money to me. So I’m trying to guage if it’s at least as good as the image I get from my 5040.


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## mattharler

ba_crane said:


> I currently have an Epson 5040 and enjoy the picture. The reason I’m considering the T1 is it willful allow me to go from 120” screen to 135” screen in my room. But if picture quality is not as good as the 5040 then it’s not worth the money to me. So I’m trying to guage if it’s at least as good as the image I get from my 5040.


I’m in a very similar situation to you, I made the move from a 5050ub to the T1 in order to gain a larger picture in a small room. My subjective opinion is that the the 5050ub is a few clicks better with very dark scene contrast, with brighter intrascene contrast being really similar between the two. I found the t1 to be more detailed, which I wasn’t expecting to be so stark. I assume this is mostly due to the lower pixel count of the 5050ub’s eshift technique and maybe partly dlp being sharper. Im very sensitive to rainbow effect and I found the 5050ub had none, whereas the t1 I see it occasionally with high contrast, fast motion scenes. The menus and settings are very limited compared to the 5050. Every other metric I find them both to be pretty neck and neck to my eyes (ignoring placement options like lens shift etc).

I compared them on a white silver ticket screen in a blacked out dedicated room, but I’m also planning to use an AT screen with the t1 soon which I saw you ask about else where. I’ve yet to receive and set it up yet, but I’ll let you know how that goes when I finish my theater in a week or two.


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## ba_crane

mattharler said:


> I’m in a very similar situation to you, I made the move from a 5050ub to the T1 in order to gain a larger picture in a small room. My subjective opinion is that the the 5050ub is a few clicks better with very dark scene contrast, with brighter intrascene contrast being really similar between the two. I found the t1 to be more detailed, which I wasn’t expecting to be so stark. I assume this is mostly due to the lower pixel count of the 5050ub’s eshift technique and maybe partly dlp being sharper. Im very sensitive to rainbow effect and I found the 5050ub had none, whereas the t1 I see it occasionally with high contrast, fast motion scenes. The menus and settings are very limited compared to the 5050. Every other metric I find them both to be pretty neck and neck to my eyes (ignoring placement options like lens shift etc).
> 
> I compared them on a white silver ticket screen in a blacked out dedicated room, but I’m also planning to use an AT screen with the t1 soon which I saw you ask about else where. I’ve yet to receive and set it up yet, but I’ll let you know how that goes when I finish my theater in a week or two.


Will send you a pm, thank you


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## ba_crane

Can anyone comment on the necessity of using a negative gain screen with this UST? An individual at projector screen made it rather clear to me that I will not like the Formovie theater on my silver ticket 1.1 gain screen as it’s a less quality screen and not an appropriate match for this UST. Said I need more around .7 gain.


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## JereyWolf

ba_crane said:


> Can anyone comment on the necessity of using a negative gain screen with this UST? An individual at projector screen made it rather clear to me that I will not like the Formovie theater on my silver ticket 1.1 gain screen as it’s a less quality screen and not an appropriate match for this UST. Said I need more around .7 gain.


This has come up many times. I believe there are a lot of people with light controlled rooms and neutral gain screens that find the combo works great. I believe the only potential downside to a non ALR screen is light from the projector being reflected onto the ceiling. 
If you're in a living room without great light control and want to have a watchable picture during the day, get an ALR with negative gain.


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## ba_crane

JereyWolf said:


> This has come up many times. I believe there are a lot of people with light controlled rooms and neutral gain screens that find the combo works great. I believe the only potential downside to a non ALR screen is light from the projector being reflected onto the ceiling.
> If you're in a living room without great light control and want to have a watchable picture during the day, get an ALR with negative gain.


That’s why I found his response quite confusing. I explained I’m in a completely light controlled room with floor to ceiling black velvet drapes and black velvet ceiling. There is no light to be seen. I can’t see my hand in front if my face mid day in that room.


----------



## rjyap

ba_crane said:


> Can anyone comment on the necessity of using a negative gain screen with this UST? An individual at projector screen made it rather clear to me that I will not like the Formovie theater on my silver ticket 1.1 gain screen as it’s a less quality screen and not an appropriate match for this UST. Said I need more around .7 gain.


That’s not true. I’m using matte white screen for dedicated theater room. The screen that I would avoid is with reflective sheen that might increase laser speckle.


----------



## ba_crane

rjyap said:


> That’s not true. I’m using matte white screen for dedicated theater room. The screen that I would avoid is with reflective sheen that might increase laser speckle.


The screen I’m looking to buy is silver ticket WVS which is white 1.1 gain


----------



## Brajesh

I'm using a 1.3 gain screen w/Formovie Theater & it's a good combo.


----------



## RazB

ba_crane said:


> The screen I’m looking to buy is silver ticket WVS which is white 1.1 gain


I have the Formovie Theater global version, projecting on to a 135" matte white 1.1 gain screen with no problems whatsoever.
With full light control the results are fantastic and you can achieve higher brightness. In your case with black velvet drapes I wouldn't worry at all.
I don't see why you should invest in a screen which is supposed reject ambient light / ceiling light when your room completely dark and treated.

The wall behind my screen is painted in a darker shade than the rest of the room, but it is not a dedicated room like yours. The ceiling is rather high which probably helps with the reflections, yet it must be even better with your setup.


----------



## Ricoflashback

rjyap said:


> Contrast is great for T1 DLP unit at the current price point. Black floor I would said it's good for DLP but I do hope it could be better if Fengmi implemented dynamic laser dimming. For very dark scene with 1-2% ADL I do wish for darker black floor such as The Batman movie and staircase scene in 1917. But for majority of the movies, the intrascene contrast are great.
> 
> MadVR is a great software to tweak the video quality. The DTM and ability to tweak the shadow details is a great compliment not only to T1 but other projector too.
> 
> My personal recommendation for DLP projector up to USD 5k, it's the unit to beat for year 2022. If your priority is very low black floor, then Epson, Sony or JVC should be your consideration.


Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the original T1 and the Global T1 equal or exceed Epson's 5050 and even the newer Epson LS12000 black floor. And from everything I've read, JVC is really the only choice when it comes to dramatically improving black levels and especially DTM for HDR and DV. For those 1-2% ADL scenes, you really need a batcave environment and a JVC projector for those dark scenes. Also - - I wish I had a JVC projector for the series "See." A lot of those shots at night are what, .5 ADL?


----------



## ba_crane

I’m in no rush, I do enjoy my 5040 but I would love goi g up to 142” screen in my room. I can’t decide if I should just get the Formovie theater now or if there will be a big step up in UST picture quality in next 1-2 years.


----------



## rjyap

Ricoflashback said:


> Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the original T1 and the Global T1 equal or exceed Epson's 5050 and even the newer Epson LS12000 black floor. And from everything I've read, JVC is really the only choice when it comes to dramatically improving black levels and especially DTM for HDR and DV. For those 1-2% ADL scenes, you really need a batcave environment and a JVC projector for those dark scenes. Also - - I wish I had a JVC projector for the series "See." A lot of those shots at night are what, .5 ADL?


Epson LS-12000 measured around 4k-5k for native contrast depending on the zoom lens position. Dynamic push that to around 10k.


----------



## Ricoflashback

rjyap said:


> Epson LS-12000 measured around 4k-5k for native contrast depending on the zoom lens position. Dynamic push that to around 10k.


Thanks. I didn't see the last number in anything I read. In the shootout between Sony, Epson and JVC, (Colorado Springs - The Screening Room) remarks were made about the lack of a black floor with the 12000 and that the 5050 was equal to the 12000, black level wise. I'm not sure if there is much difference between the Epson 5050 and the Formovie T1/GT1. At any rate - - to truly improve your home theater black floor, you need to have a bat cave in conjunction with a JVC projector, IMHO. 

Sure, a better contrast projector will always outperform a lesser spec'd PJ but for those 1-2% ADL scenes, it's JVC all the way. And for those of you with an incredible black floor - - please tell me if you can see any of the late scenes in the series "See." Maybe Formovie can add "nightvision goggles like" to one of their setting options.


----------



## tnaik4

ba_crane said:


> Can anyone comment on the necessity of using a negative gain screen with this UST? An individual at projector screen made it rather clear to me that I will not like the Formovie theater on my silver ticket 1.1 gain screen as it’s a less quality screen and not an appropriate match for this UST. Said I need more around .7 gain.


I use a white 1.1 gain screen from Carl's , cost me $50 , and the quality i m getting from the T1 with MadVR in my batcave is nothing less than amazing, i do have black velvet all over though so any light spill is not visible.


----------



## ba_crane

tnaik4 said:


> I use a white 1.1 gain screen from Carl's , cost me $50 , and the quality i m getting from the T1 with MadVR in my batcave is nothing less than amazing, i do have black velvet all over though so any light spill is not visible.


I see you have a JVC x590. If you are happy with black level and contrast of T1, I think that’s saying something. That’s my thing, if I can put this in a dark room wity lots of black velvet, is it going to at least be as good as my Epson 5050? If so, I think I’m good to try. I’ve talked to a few guys now that are running AT screens with good results. If I can have image at least as good as my Epson, run 142” screen and get the audio to come from behind the screen, well that’s good enough for me.


----------



## Ricoflashback

ba_crane said:


> I see you have a JVC x590. If you are happy with black level and contrast of T1, I think that’s saying something. That’s my thing, if I can put this in a dark room wity lots of black velvet, is it going to at least be as good as my Epson 5050? If so, I think I’m good to try. I’ve talked to a few guys now that are running AT screens with good results. If I can have image at least as good as my Epson, run 142” screen and get the audio to come from behind the screen, well that’s good enough for me.


Well - there's no way to really tell unless you try it. And, it will be a costly experiment. Even if you can return the projector for say, a 20% restocking fee plus shipping expenses, what about the screen? What's the return policy on that? I personally think it could work for you and would be a nice bump in screen size. What I'm not sure about is an AT screen and how the perforations affect the visual quality of the picture. Or, how well the audio sounds through that screen. Remember - - no matter what, your point of reference will be from a small, non-perforated screen.

I'd probably hold tight and see if either a new UST PJ comes along or maybe a regular throw projector that can fit in your space AND provide that 142" screen size you are looking for with your current mounting setup.


----------



## rjyap

ba_crane said:


> I see you have a JVC x590. If you are happy with black level and contrast of T1, I think that’s saying something. That’s my thing, if I can put this in a dark room wity lots of black velvet, is it going to at least be as good as my Epson 5050? If so, I think I’m good to try. I’ve talked to a few guys now that are running AT screens with good results. If I can have image at least as good as my Epson, run 142” screen and get the audio to come from behind the screen, well that’s good enough for me.


for AT screen go for weave type, not perforated.


----------



## Ricoflashback

rjyap said:


> for AT screen go for weave type, not perforated.


How does the sound get through without being muffled?


----------



## Dave Harper

tnaik4 said:


> U are probably not using the correct hardware accelerator, 3070ti is more than enough, u shouldnt get any stutter unless using very high NGU maybe, u have to go in video settings in the player ur using, i use MPC-BE, and chose d3d11.


I don’t have NGU on at all. Remember I am using it with VideoProcessor software with BM Decklink Quad capture card configuration, emulating an Envy. 

I’ve read it can add 30-40% to your processing needs due to the capture of 4K HDR video. 



rjyap said:


> Make sure smooth motion is turn off for V113. It can cause stuttering.


Thanks. It is off. 



ProFragger said:


> Thank you for your help. What do you think about the other specs of my PC? Will it suffice, along with the GPU/dedicated Graphics card? Also, what other equipment, adapters etc do I need for my T1 signal pass through this PC?
> 
> @Dave Harper any thoughts on going this PC/MadVR route over the HDFury Vertex2 with the T1?
> 
> Thanks.


Your best option is to employ both! I use the HDFury Vertex2 to force my sources to send raw LLDV into the MadVR/VideoProcessor capture card and then force PQ and create settings to give an incredible image!



rjyap said:


> Epson LS-12000 measured around 4k-5k for native contrast depending on the zoom lens position. Dynamic push that to around 10k.


This is what I got for the LS12000’s dynamic contrast.


----------



## tnaik4

ba_crane said:


> I see you have a JVC x590. If you are happy with black level and contrast of T1, I think that’s saying something. That’s my thing, if I can put this in a dark room wity lots of black velvet, is it going to at least be as good as my Epson 5050? If so, I think I’m good to try. I’ve talked to a few guys now that are running AT screens with good results. If I can have image at least as good as my Epson, run 142” screen and get the audio to come from behind the screen, well that’s good enough for me.


The jvc x590 black level is in a different league to be honest but that is with the very very dark scenes, the T1 has a lot of good things going for it and the black level is acceptable, i really think for 2k this is the best bang for the buck ever, keep in mind i use it exclusively with MadVR, the picture is amazing and some scenes are really better than any projector ive seen.


----------



## 3sprit

rjyap said:


> Epson LS-12000 measured around 4k-5k for native contrast depending on the zoom lens position. Dynamic push that to around 10k.


The measurements made by Grégory:


----------



## Ricoflashback

How exactly does dynamic contrast work? Is it something you should always engage?


----------



## 3sprit

Grégory wrote:
[…] My advice: if the native contrast of the new Epson is already good for an LCD projector, use and abuse the dynamic contrast.[…]


----------



## ProFragger

Anyone using the Shield Pro here with the T1 share their settings please? 

I'm interested in what you have selected as your Display settings, Upscale settings, anything special within the Developer settings and Display settings? 

Bonus points if you can also share the T1 settings with your Shield like Brightness mode, RGB, Contrast, etc? 

Finally, bonus, bonus points if you can also share your HDFury settings if you're using those? 

Thank you all!


----------



## JereyWolf

ProFragger said:


> Anyone using the Shield Pro here with the T1 share their settings please?
> 
> I'm interested in what you have selected as your Display settings, Upscale settings, anything special within the Developer settings and Display settings?
> 
> Bonus points if you can also share the T1 settings with your Shield like Brightness mode, RGB, Contrast, etc?
> 
> Finally, bonus, bonus points if you can also share your HDFury settings if you're using those?
> 
> Thank you all!


I was testing last night with turning the "match content color space" shield option off. It works well if you increase saturation, I increased mine to 70. HDR disabled from the Shield.

I've also been very satisfied leaving match color space on with contrast at 50.


----------



## ProFragger

JereyWolf said:


> I was testing last night with turning the "match content color space" shield option off. It works well if you increase saturation, I increased mine to 70. HDR disabled from the Shield.
> 
> I've also been very satisfied leaving match color space on with contrast at 50.
> View attachment 3335940
> 
> 
> View attachment 3335939
> 
> 
> View attachment 3335938


Thank you bud! What are your RGB values within T1 and what setting within the Shield are you using to turn off HDR? 

Finally... Can you share what you've set doe the Upscaling settings... I couldn't find an option to turn it off or match to certain scenarios. 

Thank you!


----------



## JereyWolf

ProFragger said:


> Thank you bud! What are your RGB values within T1 and what setting within the Shield are you using to turn off HDR?
> 
> Finally... Can you share what you've set doe the Upscaling settings... I couldn't find an option to turn it off or match to certain scenarios.
> 
> Thank you!


Instead of using custom RGB white balance, I just use the warm setting on the T1. 
The "enable HDR" setting on the shield is right under advanced display settings.
The upscaling on the shield should only be active on content at lower resolutions than the selected display resolution. I tend to leave it off because I've seen it cause weird artifacts.


----------



## shin2mars

Sorry.... Error


----------



## Lion DD

swehr said:


> I did buy a new trigger, but apparently I didn’t need to. I didn’t realize the power button only puts the projector to sleep and you have to hold it a few seconds to get it to truly power down. The trigger only gets triggered that way. I also can’t find any option to change the power down/sleep behavior because when using CEC, it only puts it to sleep. I was wanting to just use the Apple TV remote to run everything on and off and have the screen go up and down. You can mostly do it with the projector remote, but sometimes it flakes and it doesn’t always got to the HDMI port of the Apple TV so I have to manually select the input. I created a work around using a smart power plug and Siri shortcut so when I say Siri turn on PJ or turn off PJ the shortcut turns on and off the smart power plug with the trigger plugged into it and then powers on the Apple TV which in turn powers on the Projector via CEC and vice versa.


Friend, I heard that the projector will get hot after using it for a long time. When you turn off the projector, the heat will delay the signal transmitted to the projection screen, so the projector will turn off but the screen needs to wait for a while. to turn off, is this what you mean by sleep state?


----------



## ProFragger

JereyWolf said:


> Instead of using custom RGB white balance, I just use the warm setting on the T1.
> The "enable HDR" setting on the shield is right under advanced display settings.
> The upscaling on the shield should only be active on content at lower resolutions than the selected display resolution. I tend to leave it off because I've seen it cause weird artifacts.


Thank you again! Is there no way to disable upscaling? Why not use the custom settings on the T1, BTW?


----------



## JereyWolf

ProFragger said:


> Thank you again! Is there no way to disable upscaling? Why not use the custom settings on the T1, BTW?


Upscaling toggle on the Shield remote seems to only switch between "basic" and "AI enhanced".
I calibrated to D65 and used the custom setting for a while, but I prefer the look of the warm setting by just a little bit.


----------



## ProFragger

JereyWolf said:


> Upscaling toggle on the Shield remote seems to only switch between "basic" and "AI enhanced".
> I calibrated to D65 and used the custom setting for a while, but I prefer the look of the warm setting by just a little bit.


And you keep it on Basic then? That's what I have, I believe...


----------



## Lion DD

eezrider said:


> I have the 120 inch Vividstorm raising CLR/ALR screen and can testify to how well it works. The screen needs to be slightly higher than the projector - my plan is to mount the screen behind and flush with the top of a cabinet, so it will be well off the floor. For me, as the screen will be raised in front of a wall mounted OLED TV, the combination of a UST projector and a raising screen have made a projector possible (well, acceptable to my spouse).
> 
> I am continually stunned by how good the T1 and Vividstorm combination look. As they are used in a living room, not a bat-cave, the screen has made it possible to get dynamite images without blacking out the room (totally unacceptable!).
> 
> The raising screen opens up various room opportunities, TV, artwork, window or blank wall behind. For me, integrating the screen into a cabinet is more acceptable than having a drop-down screen mounted on the wall. Now, having said that, I still need to make the cabinet! Hoping to hack an Ikea Besta cabinet to achieve this. Will share pictures if I can make it work


I agree with your idea, hide the screen in the TV cabinet and put it away when not in use. The cabinet is preferably electric and can be switched on and off together with the screen. I saw that the official website of vivo storm also sells electric all-in-one cabinets. , I think this is a configuration that can be considered! ! !


----------



## clipghost

Lion DD said:


> I agree with your idea, hide the screen in the TV cabinet and put it away when not in use. The cabinet is preferably electric and can be switched on and off together with the screen. I saw that the official website of vivo storm also sells electric all-in-one cabinets. , I think this is a configuration that can be considered! ! !


Any updates on making this happen though? Have you had any luck with it?


eezrider said:


> I have the 120 inch Vividstorm raising CLR/ALR screen and can testify to how well it works. The screen needs to be slightly higher than the projector - my plan is to mount the screen behind and flush with the top of a cabinet, so it will be well off the floor. For me, as the screen will be raised in front of a wall mounted OLED TV, the combination of a UST projector and a raising screen have made a projector possible (well, acceptable to my spouse).
> 
> I am continually stunned by how good the T1 and Vividstorm combination look. As they are used in a living room, not a bat-cave, the screen has made it possible to get dynamite images without blacking out the room (totally unacceptable!).
> 
> The raising screen opens up various room opportunities, TV, artwork, window or blank wall behind. For me, integrating the screen into a cabinet is more acceptable than having a drop-down screen mounted on the wall. Now, having said that, I still need to make the cabinet! Hoping to hack an Ikea Besta cabinet to achieve this. Will share pictures if I can make it work


Any updates on making this happen though? Have you had any luck with it? Pics?


----------



## spocky12

Not sure how this is working as I haven't updated yet, but the latest Shield hotfix seems to add a "force lldv" option, similar to other players.



https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/forums/shield-tv/9/498676/shield-experience-upgrade-91-hotfix-image/


----------



## Dave Harper

spocky12 said:


> Not sure how this is working as I haven't updated yet, but the latest Shield hotfix seems to add a "force lldv" option, similar to other players.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/forums/shield-tv/9/498676/shield-experience-upgrade-91-hotfix-image/


Nice, I’ll have to try this on my Shield finally and compare it to my AppleTV!










So how do I load this latest option to test this out?


----------



## Lion DD

clipghost said:


> Any updates on making this happen though? Have you had any luck with it?
> 
> 
> Any updates on making this happen though? Have you had any luck with it? Pics?


I saw a video about cabinets on vivostorm's tiktok platform, maybe it's useful for you: Projection screen manufacturer on TikTok


----------



## clipghost

Lion DD said:


> I saw a video about cabinets on vivostorm's tiktok platform, maybe it's useful for you: Projection screen manufacturer on TikTok


Sure but probably costs an arm and a leg. Was hoping that user did something custom.


----------



## ProFragger

spocky12 said:


> Not sure how this is working as I haven't updated yet, but the latest Shield hotfix seems to add a "force lldv" option, similar to other players.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/forums/shield-tv/9/498676/shield-experience-upgrade-91-hotfix-image/


Man I got such a snarky response from their community members and their developers when I requested this feature. I have that email somewhere. Almost like, every other streaming device is stupid and SHIELD is above this feature... Phish! LOL! 

Looking to see how I can get it too... Now if they can give an option to "Match Content" to only turn this on when DV is available, we'd be in business! 😊


----------



## spocky12

Good news (?), after a 2 monthes pause (last one was from July 18th), internal OTAs seems to show signs of life (2 recent releases, last one is 2.1.3.2665).
As always, I don't have any changelog, but the size exploded, going from 500Mb to more than 700Mb.

All I can say is that DV parameters have changed drastically since the latest stable release (2289). 
For those who want to play with hdfury, here are a few changes :

Tmin/Tmax went from 0.2/300 to 0.06/108
tgamma 2.20 -> 2.15
tprimaries : 0.6978, 0.2994, 0.2233, 0.7225, 0.1521, 0.0221, 0.3127, 0.3290 (previously the values were different and not consistent across the configuration files)
global dimming now declared as disabled
lldv is now declared as supported only for yuv (not for RGB anymore)
backlight min luma : 25 -> 100
Tmax is set to 110 (instead of the new default value of 108) for "vivid" and "bright" picture modes


----------



## JereyWolf

spocky12 said:


> Good news (?), after a 2 monthes pause (last one was from July 18th), internal OTAs seems to show signs of life (2 recent releases, last one is 2.1.3.2665).
> As always, I don't have any changelog, but the size exploded, going from 500Mb to more than 700Mb.
> 
> All I can say is that DV parameters have changed drastically since the latest stable release (2289).
> For those who want to play with hdfury, here are a few changes :
> 
> Tmin/Tmax went from 0.2/300 to 0.06/108
> tgamma 2.20 -> 2.15
> tprimaries : 0.6978, 0.2994, 0.2233, 0.7225, 0.1521, 0.0221, 0.3127, 0.3290 (previously the values were different and not consistent across the configuration files)
> global dimming now declared as disabled
> lldv is now declared as supported only for yuv (not for RGB anymore)
> backlight min luma : 25 -> 100
> Tmax is set to 110 (instead of the new default value of 108) for "vivid" and "bright" picture modes


Thank you for sharing the update!

Are you able to tell if the luminance curve targets have been adjusted? I'm hoping they get something more reasonable like a 100nit MAX luminance, or enable setting to make it adjustable like the Formovie Theater.

What are the settings you note here? Your personal settings from your HDFury device?


----------



## antjes

spocky12 said:


> Good news (?), after a 2 monthes pause (last one was from July 18th), internal OTAs seems to show signs of life (2 recent releases, last one is 2.1.3.2665).
> As always, I don't have any changelog, but the size exploded, going from 500Mb to more than 700Mb.
> 
> All I can say is that DV parameters have changed drastically since the latest stable release (2289).
> For those who want to play with hdfury, here are a few changes :
> 
> Tmin/Tmax went from 0.2/300 to 0.06/108
> tgamma 2.20 -> 2.15
> tprimaries : 0.6978, 0.2994, 0.2233, 0.7225, 0.1521, 0.0221, 0.3127, 0.3290 (previously the values were different and not consistent across the configuration files)
> global dimming now declared as disabled
> lldv is now declared as supported only for yuv (not for RGB anymore)
> backlight min luma : 25 -> 100
> Tmax is set to 110 (instead of the new default value of 108) for "vivid" and "bright" picture modes


Thanks for sharing.
I wish they include any kind of extra adjustment...

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## lattiboy

I emailed them about a T1 update and was given this hilarious, obviously translated response:


_Hello!

It is good to hear from you!

Sorry, there is no updated version yet.

Let's look forward to it together! Thank you for your support.

Best regards._


----------



## zoomx2

Hopefully soon.


----------



## spocky12

JereyWolf said:


> What are the settings you note here? Your personal settings from your HDFury device?


Due to how the OTAs are built, I can't extract most of the new files (hence I can't check for updated files and reverse engineer what's new), but the calibration settings are stored on a different partition that can be fully extracted (thus, compared with our current version).
What I posted are the latest stock T1 calibration changes (I made a diff between 2289 and 2665).


----------



## JereyWolf

spocky12 said:


> Due to how the OTAs are built, I can't extract most of the new files (hence I can't check for updated files and reverse engineer what's new), but the calibration settings are stored on a different partition that can be fully extracted (thus, compared with our current version).
> What I posted are the latest stock T1 calibration changes (I made a diff between 2289 and 2665).


Do the Tmin/Tmax relate to a tone mapping luminance curve?


----------



## ProFragger

@spocky12, sorry for being the slow one here man, but what do you mean by these OTAs? If these are OTAs for the T1, wouldn't all of us be getting these in a rolling fashion? If not, why not and how did you get this? Are you part of the beta group? 

Different questions, from the values/settings you posted, can you hypothesize for us, less informed, on what kind of visual changes could this mean for the current PQ of T1? 

Thank you for all your hard work!


----------



## spocky12

JereyWolf said:


> Do the Tmin/Tmax relate to a tone mapping luminance curve?


I'm not a dolby vision expert, but this supposedly defines the highest and lowest device luminance, so that lldv can adapt its mapping algorithm.


ProFragger said:


> @spocky12, sorry for being the slow one here man, but what do you mean by these OTAs? If these are OTAs for the T1, wouldn't all of us be getting these in a rolling fashion? If not, why not and how did you get this? Are you part of the beta group?
> 
> Different questions, from the values/settings you posted, can you hypothesize for us, less informed, on what kind of visual changes could this mean for the current PQ of T1?
> 
> Thank you for all your hard work!


These are private/internal OTAs (developers work everyday at Fengmi on FengOs, and each time something is committed, a new OS version is built, along with the corresponding OTAs. The minor version number is also incremented, here for example 2665).
Once their changes are considered stable enough, they are tagged as beta, and people who contacted support regarding a specific bug and who opted for beta OTAs automatically receive it.
Finally, once they decide it (whether a specific bug had been fixed or a new feature has been released), a specific revision is tagged as stable and get pushed to all devices.
Regarding how I got them : All OTAs are available on a public web server, but it's not easily accessible (you have to know the exact url). 
I won't share it because internal OTAs should not be installed on users devices (as you can consider them as "alpha") and they could potentially brick your device (and we don't have any full firmware to recover if needed). However, I know that people have been expecting a new release for a few months, so I share information when something new emerges.


----------



## zoomx2

Spocky12, do you pick up anything from the Global version to improve your Projectivy?


----------



## ProFragger

spocky12 said:


> I'm not a dolby vision expert, but this supposedly defines the highest and lowest device luminance, so that lldv can adapt its mapping algorithm.These are private/internal OTAs (developers work everyday at Fengmi on FengOs, and each time something is committed, a new OS version is built, along with the corresponding OTAs. The minor version number is also incremented, here for example 2665).
> Once their changes are considered stable enough, they are tagged as beta, and people who contacted support regarding a specific bug and who opted for beta OTAs automatically receive it.
> Finally, once they decide it (whether a specific bug had been fixed or a new feature has been released), a specific revision is tagged as stable and get pushed to all devices.
> Regarding how I got them : All OTAs are available on a public web server, but it's not easily accessible (you have to know the exact url).
> I won't share it because internal OTAs should not be installed on users devices (as you can consider them as "alpha") and they could potentially brick your device (and we don't have any full firmware to recover if needed). However, I know that people have been expecting a new release for a few months, so I share information when something new emerges.


Thank you for serving this community. It has been feeling like we're the children left behind, even though we generated a ton of hype for Fengmi on the T1! 

Do you know how to sign up for beta? Do they ever share their projections for when the stable build may be coming? 

Finally, asking again... Other than the peak luminance settings, what's your best guess at to the visual impact of these potential update to the end user?

Thank you again!


----------



## spocky12

zoomx2 said:


> Spocky12, do you pick up anything from the Global version to improve your Projectivy?


I would love to, but I haven't been able to put my hands on a gt1 dump yet.



ProFragger said:


> Thank you for serving this community. It has been feeling like we're the children left behind, even though we generated a ton of hype for Fengmi on the T1!
> 
> Do you know how to sign up for beta? Do they ever share their projections for when the stable build may be coming?
> 
> Finally, asking again... Other than the peak luminance settings, what's your best guess at to the visual impact of these potential update to the end user?
> 
> Thank you again!


Not sure we'll ever get the features available on the gt1 (but who knows, that's not impossible). But on their previous UST devices, Fengmi has shown a pretty decent support, with regular updates for at least 2 years.
Keep in mind that the T1 is a high end device and they have no reason abandoning it in their local market.
Regarding the beta, I haven't done it myself but if you report a bug (say, HDMI handshake), they might propose you to get them when available.
As for the visual updates, I suppose the stock calibration will get close to what's available on the gt1.


----------



## rjyap

If Fengmi engineer could implement dynamic laser dimming, this would be a killer unit.


----------



## ProFragger

spocky12 said:


> I would love to, but I haven't been able to put my hands on a gt1 dump yet.
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure we'll ever get the features available on the gt1 (but who knows, that's not impossible). But on their previous UST devices, Fengmi has shown a pretty decent support, with regular updates for at least 2 years.
> Keep in mind that the T1 is a high end device and they have no reason abandoning it in their local market.
> Regarding the beta, I haven't done it myself but if you report a bug (say, HDMI handshake), they might propose you to get them when available.
> As for the visual updates, I suppose the stock calibration will get close to what's available on the gt1.


I hope you're right man... Although these updates have been anything but regular 😅!


----------



## Makabaka_

lattiboy said:


> Vividstorm is an excellent option for motorized CLR screens. If you end up with fixed Frame many people swear by XY Screens on Alibaba. They are about 70% cheaper than even budget lines like Elite Screens and use very, very similar material.
> 
> I feel spending over $2000 for any screen is a real “diminishing returns” scenario, but with CLR you’re often paying huge markups for the same screen material used in the Chinese screens, but with a moderately better frame.


I also love the vividstorm s pro. It is a perfect match for my projector.


----------



## Ricoflashback

spocky12 said:


> Not sure how this is working as I haven't updated yet, but the latest Shield hotfix seems to add a "force lldv" option, similar to other players.
> 
> http://[URL]https://www.nvidia.com/...676/shield-experience-upgrade-91-hotfix-image/[/URL]


How? The only note I see is "Adds developer option to force Low Latency Dolby Vision if available." OK. Who is the developer that will add this option, if available? At any rate - - I have the GT1 (Global Formovie Theater projector) and I just turn HDR/DV off and match color space and enjoy the SDR picture. It would be nice to see what LLDV does without the cost of an HD Fury. I'm not sure the juice is worth the squeeze but I'd look at it, anyway.


----------



## ProFragger

Ricoflashback said:


> How? The only note I see is "Adds developer option to force Low Latency Dolby Vision if available." OK. Who is the developer that will add this option, if available? At any rate - - I have the GT1 (Global Formovie Theater projector) and I just turn HDR/DV off and match color space and enjoy the SDR picture. It would be nice to see what LLDV does without the cost of an HD Fury. I'm not sure the juice is worth the squeeze but I'd look at it, anyway.


Hey Rico, 

Even on the Global T1 you're using SDR by default? Does it also have red lips issue with its DV implementation? Does the CMS and other stuff not help with the DV PQ over the T1? 

Please share your observations and knowledge. Thank you.


----------



## Ricoflashback

ProFragger said:


> Hey Rico,
> 
> Even on the Global T1 you're using SDR by default? Does it also have red lips issue with its DV implementation? Does the CMS and other stuff not help with the DV PQ over the T1?
> 
> Please share your observations and knowledge. Thank you.


I can’t comment on the original T1 as I have the GT1. But after messing around with DV and the dark picture, for streaming I just use my Nvidia Shield Pro and turn off HDR and DV and stick with SDR content. It looks fantastic to me with lots of color punch and a sharp 100” image. 4K and UHD are also stunning with my projector. Even cable TV looks great. I thought about trying the HD Fury Vertex solution for DV but decided against it.


----------



## spocky12

Ricoflashback said:


> How? The only note I see is "Adds developer option to force Low Latency Dolby Vision if available." OK. Who is the developer that will add this option, if available? At any rate - - I have the GT1 (Global Formovie Theater projector) and I just turn HDR/DV off and match color space and enjoy the SDR picture. It would be nice to see what LLDV does without the cost of an HD Fury. I'm not sure the juice is worth the squeeze but I'd look at it, anyway.


"developer options" is a hidden settings screen that can be easily enabled : Android Developer Options Explained: Here's everything you can do with these settings.
However, looking at the feedback in the shield pro thread on avs, it seems that this lldv option doesn't stick and has to be reenabled upon reboot. Only a few people discussed about it, we'll probably have to test to learn more about the limitations.


----------



## Makabaka_

j-0 said:


> I have a 100 inch vividstorm screen (S PRO P).
> 
> Due to limitations in my set up, both my Vividstorm and the projector need to placed on the same (ground) level.
> 
> Does anyone here know if this set up would work for the Fengmi T1?
> 
> Based on the manual, it seems I can put the projector at the same level as the screen base, 198 mm in front of the screen, and it would project perfectly onto the 100 inch screen.
> 
> Vividstorm:
> 
> View attachment 3280313
> 
> 
> T1 Manual:
> 
> View attachment 3280314
> 
> 
> So it seems ok, but would love to hear from someone who owns one.
> 
> The Samsung LSP9T said the same in the manual, but in practice, it overshoots, like it wants a 110-120 inch screen, and I have to software correct the edges, even when placed right in front of my screen, which results in a less ideal image projecting.


There is a black area at the bottom of the VIVIDSTORM screen. This black area is partially adjustable. You can adjust the height of the screen as required by the projector.


----------



## Phoenixscar

rooterha said:


> If anyone wants the T1 i'll do $1600 shipped today only. Just want it gone from my office. Works perfect, no issues, just replaced with T1 Global.


Hey man! Do you still have the t1 for sale? I just started learning about projectors and am on the market for my first UST! Would love to take yours off your hand if it's up for grabs .. message me with your phone number/ text


----------



## esegan

I know xiaomi and fengmi ultra short throw projectors have a lot of complaints about lens problem, poor sharpness, especially in far corners. In fact, the focal lens cannot even reach the best sharpness and rests on the limiter. Are there people who were able to adjust (repair a defective lens? No matter what model, their lenses are the same or almost the same in design. If you can share information or a video on how to repair (adjust) a lens? I did not see adjustable parts on the lens itself, there are only 1 bar on 1 shupupe, what does it set up?


----------



## ted_b

So, I finally fired up my new Atmos-based HT today. I am not yet ready to calibrate/tweak in my T1 but was simply using it to get my AppleTV 4K and Lyngdorf MP40 set up, initially to listen to streamed Atmos music (and tmrw try out the Z9X and some lossless Atmos MKVs). Ok fine....once all was done I turned off the T1 and retracted the Vividstorm (for now). However, something I am doing keeps turning the T1 back on again (and while it powers up it freezes/blocks the Atmos music playback on the ATV 4K!) I'm not sure if it's some remote code/signal I'm engaging on my iPhone (used as a remote to manage Apple Music Atmos streaming) or what?? Any ideas? Need more detail? Not sure what to add...

Also, is there a way to turn off the internal speaker on the T1 when it is on? 
Thx
Ted


----------



## zoomx2

Go to setting to turn off Power wake up. Go to Home main Audio can select speaker or eARC


----------



## ted_b

zoomx2 said:


> Go to setting to turn off Power wake up. Go to Home main Audio can select speaker or eARC


Thanks, I found and turned off speaker...but can't find where, exactly, to turn off power wake up. Sorry.


----------



## zoomx2




----------



## ted_b

Sorry to be bringing up an old topic, but I just fired up my newly built HT and now care what the T1 looks like.  Two questions:
1) is the HDMI 1 input the proper one for best picture (coming from my Lyngdorf MP-40) or does it matter?
2) Where in the settings do I find the issue with the T1 needing to switch between HDMI 2.0 and 2.1 (firmware bug?) and where/how do I know when it is an issue (i.e how do folks know they are accidentally stuck in HDMI 2.0 and only getting 4k/30)?

I'm gonna implement the picture settings from @m0j0 for now and wanted to make sure I was starting out correctly. Thx


----------



## rjyap

ted_b said:


> Sorry to be bringing up an old topic, but I just fired up my newly built HT and now care what the T1 looks like.  Two questions:
> 1) is the HDMI 1 input the proper one for best picture (coming from my Lyngdorf MP-40) or does it matter?
> 2) Where in the settings do I find the issue with the T1 needing to switch between HDMI 2.0 and 2.1 (firmware bug?) and where/how do I know when it is an issue (i.e how do folks know they are accidentally stuck in HDMI 2.0 and only getting 4k/30)?
> 
> I'm gonna implement the picture settings from @m0j0 for now and wanted to make sure I was starting out correctly. Thx


I'm using HDMI 3 as it suppose to support all features including eARC. Not sure if the rest of the HDMI input are HDMI 2.1 compliance. As I'm using HTPC, it's quite obvious when my desktop switch to 1080p instead of 4K as the icon are enlarge when the handshake fail at 4K60p but that seldom happen.


----------



## ted_b

OK, I'll switch over to HDMI 3 input on the T1. Where do I find these HDMi settings (1.4, 2.0, etc)? Thx


----------



## ted_b

ted_b said:


> To correct the problem go to the projector settings menu (press the button to the right of the back button on the projector remote to activate the HDMI menu settings). Select Play Settings. Toggle the HDMI version between 2.1 and 2.0, settling on 2.0. This will force a HDMI handshake reboot and correctly reset the projector's HDMI version number so that the attached source sees the projector as a 4K60 444 DV BT2020 display.


Wow, I am truly a vidiot. I found the answer to where in the T1 system should I look to switch HDMI versions.....and it's from MY OWN post back in March (I was quoting a C2 forum post and at that time never fired up my system enough to do this...so I forgot!! 🙁 ) Sorry....


----------



## ted_b

Does anyone have decent get-started settings for the HDFury Arcana (connected to the T1)? Dedicated dark man cave. My sources, being switched via a Lyngdorf MP-40, are:

Zidoo Z9X
ATV4K
Xfinity cable
Sony 800M2 bluray (not bought yet)

Thx
Ted


----------



## 94SupraTT

eezrider said:


> I have it working with my XBox One X and will try with a Series X later this week. The problem is that the T1 seems to frequently drop back to HDMI 1.4 on rebooting even if it shows that it is set to 2.0 or 2.1. I and several others have reported this. The fix is to switch the HDMI "play setting" on the projector once connected. Just switch to any other setting and then back to HDMI 2.0 or 2.1. You will lose the image momentarily as the XBox resyncs and hopefully you'll then have 4K and DV support. Unfortunately, this has not yet been fixed in the 2.0 firmware. If this is the problem, then please report it to Fengmi ([email protected]). The more people report this issue the more likely we'll see a fix soon.
> 
> Interestingly, with my XBox One it syncs at 1080p in HDMI 1.4 and not 480p. So, what you're seeing may be something else.


Is this still an issue with the T1? It appears to still be an issue with the Formovie Theatre. I get the "video signal is weak" or whatever the error is. If I got to the EDID setting on the projector and go from HDMI 2.0 to 2.1 or vice versa the picture will return. It's quite annoying. It happens EVERY time I try to play my Series X.


----------



## zoomx2

It is an ongoing issue since day1. All firmware updates are still not able to fix it. Please report it to [email protected] more ppl explain quicker they will fix it.


----------



## clipghost

zoomx2 said:


> It is an ongoing issue since day1. All firmware updates are still not able to fix it. Please report it to [email protected] more ppl explain quicker they will fix it.


Is this fixed on the global t1?


----------



## Brajesh

It happens occasionally on Global as well, and sometimes ability to select 2.0 or 2.1 is greyed-out. Requires rebooting the projector, switching HDMI input/back or rebooting source player to resolve.


----------



## clipghost

Brajesh said:


> It happens occasionally on Global as well, and sometimes ability to select 2.0 or 2.1 is greyed-out. Requires rebooting the projector, switching HDMI input/back or rebooting source player to resolve.


Brajesh, you're making picking between the Formovie and AWOL difficult day by day, haha


----------



## 94SupraTT

zoomx2 said:


> It is an ongoing issue since day1. All firmware updates are still not able to fix it. Please report it to [email protected] more ppl explain quicker they will fix it.


I emailed them today about the issue.


----------



## DesertDog

Brajesh said:


> It happens occasionally on Global as well, and sometimes ability to select 2.0 or 2.1 is greyed-out. Requires rebooting the projector, switching HDMI input/back or rebooting source player to resolve.


For those keeping score to try to decide, I've only had it happen once to me on my GT1 and it was in the first week of getting it back in July.


----------



## ted_b

lattiboy said:


> Was going to pop in and say that my Apple TV 4K (2nd gen) running in SDR is pretty great. No HDMI issues (for a month now), no worrying about switching modes, no DV darkness, no HDFury fussing.
> 
> Color is still very good, if not quite as eye popping as DV or HDR, but tone mapping is great and I literally never touch the image or brightness modes.
> View brightness with a pretty standard custom profile, dynamic contrast off, and @m0j0 RGB color settings.
> 
> Anyway, if you want to stop stressing out about everything, this is really the way to go. HDR and DV content are mapped quite well by the ATV4K.


@lattiboy 
I know this is a relatively old post (3 mo old) but wondered if you still stand by this as a possible non-HD Fury solution, at least from the ATV4K as a source? I ask cuz I have An Arcana bought and paid for and wondered if it make sense to put it in, before the T1 (after the pre/pro) ; and will it improve a Sony 800M2 bluray source and even an Xfinity cable source, even if it's a wash with the ATV4K-set-at-SDR source? I'd love to KISS but with 3-4 sources wasn't sure I shouldn't install and learn about the Arcana's value with those. ....thx
Ted


----------



## Brajesh

@clipghost, ha ha, sorry. Let me make it easy for you... if you don't need 3D and have a decently light controlled room, go Formovie !


----------



## zoomx2

I tried to use the EZCOO splitter with Firestick 4kmax to send LLDV and disable T1 DV. But I could not make it works. Anyone doesn't want to spend $$ for an HDFury with another streaming device can try it.


----------



## rjyap

Still love the T1 image quality. Only wish list is new firmware to implement dynamic laser dimming which could easily triple or quadruple the dynamic contrast ratio.


----------



## clipghost

Brajesh said:


> @clipghost, ha ha, sorry. Let me make it easy for you... if you don't need 3D and have a decently light controlled room, go Formovie !


Seems like it! I will DM you some questions



rjyap said:


> Still love the T1 image quality. Only wish list is new firmware to implement dynamic laser dimming which could easily triple or quadruple the dynamic contrast ratio.


Do you feel they are bad at getting firmware out there?


----------



## rjyap

clipghost said:


> Do you feel they are bad at getting firmware out there?


 They are slow in updating the firmware but at current state, there's no major showstopper bugs for T1. There are worse projector that I have owned which either no update or need to send back to service center for upgrade which they never announce new firmware availability.


----------



## clipghost

rjyap said:


> They are slow in updating the firmware but at current state, there's no major showstopper bugs for T1. There are worse projector that I have owned which either no update or need to send back to service center for upgrade which they never announce new firmware availability.


Thanks!


----------



## boogaliwoogali

Hey there, I've noticed a high idle power consumption on the Formovie Theatre projector of about 12-15 watts (when off and the Formovie logo is illuminated). 

On the product spec sheet, it states that it should have an idle power draw of < 0.5 watts. Is there a setting or something I need to change to get that sort of idle power consumption?


----------



## antjes

zoomx2 said:


> I tried to use the EZCOO splitter with Firestick 4kmax to send LLDV and disable T1 DV. But I could not make it works. Anyone doesn't want to spend $$ for an HDFury with another streaming device can try it.


That's not posible. The only thing that you can do with EZCOO is to force or customize a EDID, HDMI handshake will disappear.
If you want DTM included in LLDV and enable HDR flag then you need Hdfury.
You can use EZCOO for others tasks, my TV does not include DV in EDID but when I force LLDV It detects the signal, so It is LLDV ready and flag appears.

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## zoomx2

If you have an EZCOO you may want to try it.









Alternative Devices for Enabling Low Latency Dolby...


There is an existing thread discussing ways to enable Player-led Dolby Vision (aka Low Latency Dolby Vision, or LLDV) when the display does not have this capability. Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on... The scheme involves using an HD Fury Device to "spoof" the display EDID so...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## antjes

zoomx2 said:


> If you have an EZCOO you may want to try it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alternative Devices for Enabling Low Latency Dolby...
> 
> 
> There is an existing thread discussing ways to enable Player-led Dolby Vision (aka Low Latency Dolby Vision, or LLDV) when the display does not have this capability. Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on... The scheme involves using an HD Fury Device to "spoof" the display EDID so...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


I already tried all options. Some months ago before that post, I adviced in this forum of how good is this splitter, but if you want to remove DV flag the only option sadly is Hdfury 

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## zoomx2

Do you know HDFury 8k Dr.HDMI can do LLDV or not? I don't want to spend extra for Vertex2.


----------



## antjes

zoomx2 said:


> Do you know HDFury 8k Dr.HDMI can do LLDV or not? I don't want to spend extra for Vertex2.


I dont know DrHDMI, I'm using Vertex 1 and GoBlue for bluetooth connection. I'm getting a better DTM and using Zidoo as player. I dont like DV in streaming services, Netflix or primevideo, I think is not real DV since I get sometimes green spots or rose lips, and no DTM appreciable.
It is easy to find used Vertex 1 units at good price.
And remember that this is not plug &play, you Will have to spend some time .....

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## ted_b

Thanks to @lattiboy's earlier suggestion I watched Blue Planet II, Episode 3 (Coral Reefs) on my T1 120" Vividstorm, source is an Apple TV 4K running SDR. Incredible colors, video and overall presentation. Wow. The fact that it was presented in Dolby Atmos was cherry on top (pun intended).


----------



## mirzank

Having a super weird issue not sure how to fix really need help with it. I know some people already had an issue with the remote getting unpaired from the projector. In my case for months I had no issue but suddenly after a few weeks of not using the pj I found the remote wasn’t paired. Holding home and back button does nothing. 
I can’t go into the remote pairing option in android tv because obviously no working buttons. 
Tried unplugging and re plugging the pj. Also tried removing and reinserting batteries for a while from remote. Tried 3 pairs of new batteries. 
But nothing is working. I can even reset the pj since obviously the remote isn’t working. 

How can I go about paring the remote ? Or resetting the pj without the remote ?


----------



## boogaliwoogali

mirzank said:


> Having a super weird issue not sure how to fix really need help with it. I know some people already had an issue with the remote getting unpaired from the projector. In my case for months I had no issue but suddenly after a few weeks of not using the pj I found the remote wasn’t paired. Holding home and back button does nothing.
> I can’t go into the remote pairing option in android tv because obviously no working buttons.
> Tried unplugging and re plugging the pj. Also tried removing and reinserting batteries for a while from remote. Tried 3 pairs of new batteries.
> But nothing is working. I can even reset the pj since obviously the remote isn’t working.
> 
> How can I go about paring the remote ? Or resetting the pj without the remote ?


I had this issue myself and fixed it just now. I connected a USB mouse to the back of the projector allowing control with a cursor.

I then went back into bluetooth settings, where I was able to get the remote paired again.


----------



## boogaliwoogali

Just FYI, I learnt that if you hold down the controller power button you can shut down the projector instead of sleeping it, which reduces power consumption to 0 watts on a power meter.

Also, does anyone know if it's possible to keep the display off and just use the speakers for casting?


----------



## donw

boogaliwoogali said:


> Just FYI, I learnt that if you hold down the controller power button you can shut down the projector instead of sleeping it, which reduces power consumption to 0 watts on a power meter.
> 
> Also, does anyone know if it's possible to keep the display off and just use the speakers for casting?


Wait, I thought when the little hour glass counts down (after pressing the power button), it went into full off mode. No?


----------



## boogaliwoogali

donw said:


> Wait, I thought when the little hour glass counts down (after pressing the power button), it went into full off mode. No?


Not sure about the little hour glass I'll be honest.

As far as I can tell, if the Formovie logo is lit up, it's in sleep mode. If you're properly powering it off, the Formovie logo will be off even with the pj connected to power.


----------



## donw

boogaliwoogali said:


> Not sure about the little hour glass I'll be honest.
> 
> As far as I can tell, if the Formovie logo is lit up, it's in sleep mode. If you're properly powering it off, the Formovie logo will be off even with the pj connected to power.


Yes, when the hour glass counts down, the logo goes off, too, so I'm pretty sure it is totally powered off.


----------



## antjes

boogaliwoogali said:


> Also, does anyone know if it's possible to keep the display off and just use the speakers for casting?


Not possible, a pity

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## boogaliwoogali

antjes said:


> Not possible, a pity
> 
> Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


Yeah, I thought as much. I sent their support team a message asking if it can be implemented.


----------



## dami1337

My T1 never stops fans blowing unless I force power it down by holding off button. Even 1 hour later still fans running.


----------



## donw

dami1337 said:


> My T1 never stops fans blowing unless I force power it down by holding off button. Even 1 hour later still fans running.


Something sounds wrong. Do you have CEC enabled? Do you get the hour glass-like count down when you single press the power button?


----------



## Alipapa

Hi guys, I am new to UST, and recently just ordered a Chinese version. Have anyone figurged out how to install google play? I am sorry if this was mentioned before


----------



## zaselim

Hello everyone, how's everyone doing?
It's been a while since i visited the thread. I wanted to let everyone know if any of you don't know already and if anyone of you do and can improve upon it then It'll be great.
So, i was playing Uncharted Legacy of Thieves collection (PC) today, and I always do a comparison with my Samsung 4k HDR10+ TV to see how T1 looks compare to it(and T1 always looks more punchier in colors even with HDR turned off from the source which always amazes me and put a smile on my face), and i was at this puzzle screen and I saw there was some more green or should i say less redish yellow tone on T1 image and Green was also looking slightly different. I then checked all the preset mods and noticed that Display mode is the most accurate in colors compare to my TV. So I started to match it on custom RGB sliders and i got very close at R:1035, G:1045, B:1038, i was still missing some thing so I change the brightness mode to office and it matched the display mode but more brighter. I usually use dynamic contrast as it gives more punchy image in darker scenes while maintaining the shadow detail and deeper black/contrast on brighter scenes with all of my settings. So i went back to view mode and turned off the dynamic contrast and it got very very close to display colors (but brighter because Display mode is less brighter) and then I increased the saturation to 55-56 (from 48) and turned back on the dynamic contrast.
Now i am very close to Display mode colors with way brighter picture like we all have with custom mode, But yellow tone a light red hint still looks a bit yellowish on some areas while matches with display mode on some.
My current settings are:
View Mode: Brightness 53, Contrast 53, Saturation 55, Tone: 47-48, R:1036, G:1045, B:1038 (previously were R:1030, G:1045, B:1038), Dynamic contrast: ON. I didn't mention sharpness because everyone has their own preference for it, mine is 57. It is very close in comparison to display mode, which is almost similar to my Samsung TV but with more punchy colors as T1 as beautiful punchy colors. When i turned down my brightness and contrast to 40-42 then It matches the display mode brightness.
So when ever any of you get the time, check these settings to make a comparison with display mode to see how it looks and if you can improve it then please do if you haven't aleady. And any of you already have set RGB sliders (and tone) to match the display mode color tone then please let me know as well.
I'll very much appreciate it, I don't have any problem with my settings right now but some times i notice the yellow with red hint looking yellow without the red hint and it just bugs me lol.
Oh also attaching the image (HDR was off in game/windows), sorry for the JPG instead of PNG as it was over the size limit.


Spoiler


----------



## rjyap

zaselim said:


> Hello everyone, how's everyone doing?
> It's been a while since i visited the thread. I wanted to let everyone know if any of you don't know already and if anyone of you do and can improve upon it then It'll be great.
> So, i was playing Uncharted Legacy of Thieves collection (PC) today, and I always do a comparison with my Samsung 4k HDR10+ TV to see how T1 looks compare to it(and T1 always looks more punchier in colors even with HDR turned off from the source which always amazes me and put a smile on my face), and i was at this puzzle screen and I saw there was some more green or should i say less redish yellow tone on T1 image and Green was also looking slightly different. I then checked all the preset mods and noticed that Display mode is the most accurate in colors compare to my TV. So I started to match it on custom RGB sliders and i got very close at R:1035, G:1045, B:1038, i was still missing some thing so I change the brightness mode to office and it matched the display mode but more brighter. I usually use dynamic contrast as it gives more punchy image in darker scenes while maintaining the shadow detail and deeper black/contrast on brighter scenes with all of my settings. So i went back to view mode and turned off the dynamic contrast and it got very very close to display colors (but brighter because Display mode is less brighter) and then I increased the saturation to 55-56 (from 48) and turned back on the dynamic contrast.
> Now i am very close to Display mode colors with way brighter picture like we all have with custom mode, But yellow tone a light red hint still looks a bit yellowish on some areas while matches with display mode on some.
> My current settings are:
> View Mode: Brightness 53, Contrast 53, Saturation 55, Tone: 47-48, R:1036, G:1045, B:1038 (previously were R:1030, G:1045, B:1038), Dynamic contrast: ON. I didn't mention sharpness because everyone has their own preference for it, mine is 57. It is very close in comparison to display mode, which is almost similar to my Samsung TV but with more punchy colors as T1 as beautiful punchy colors. When i turned down my brightness and contrast to 40-42 then It matches the display mode brightness.
> So when ever any of you get the time, check these settings to make a comparison with display mode to see how it looks and if you can improve it then please do if you haven't aleady. And any of you already have set RGB sliders (and tone) to match the display mode color tone then please let me know as well.
> I'll very much appreciate it, I don't have any problem with my settings right now but some times i notice the yellow with red hint looking yellow without the red hint and it just bugs me lol.
> Oh also attaching the image (HDR was off in game/windows), sorry for the JPG instead of PNG as it was over the size limit.
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3352718


Great image. I think the reason the color looks more pop as it's display in wide color mode. For game, color accuracy is not that important and I too prefer a more saturated color. Most TV still can't match the color gamut of tri-laser projector including OLED TV.


----------



## jacksonheight

Hello everyone!

Just got my new formovie projector and so excited to get it all setup! 
The blurrines on corners is driving me a bit nuts, and from what I have read in the threads this is what to do?
-download update
-adjust the corners by shifting the projector as much as possible without using the keystone correction
-go full left on focus and then slowly adjust it. I tried this at first without reading the forum and could never get the top right corner to be clear. The letters always is blurry


I have a chromecast but I think what came with the projector is the same so is it better to use the built in android tv?


----------



## zoomx2

Download the Projectivy launcher, and go to setting autofocus. You need to sideload the app because T1 doesn't come with the Google store.


----------



## jacksonheight

zoomx2 said:


> Download the Projectivy launcher, and go to setting autofocus. You need to sideload the app because T1 doesn't come with the Google store.


Do I still need to root my projector? or can I just download from google app store? seems my projector has google store (maybe the new versions include it now?)


----------



## donw

Alipapa said:


> Hi guys, I am new to UST, and recently just ordered a Chinese version. Have anyone figurged out how to install google play? I am sorry if this was mentioned before


You cannot install Play, as this is really a modified Android that will not allow Play store.


----------



## donw

jacksonheight said:


> Do I still need to root my projector? or can I just download from google app store? seems my projector has google store (maybe the new versions include it now?)


My understanding is that you do not have to root the projector. And since you cannot run Google Play store, you can't download it from there. I believe you have to "side load" the app by downloading it on say your computer and putting it on a thumb drive which you move over to the T1. I have never done this, but it is my understanding.
Here is where Spocky12, the developer stores and describes the code. I believe you can get it from this website:
Projectivi


----------



## ted_b

zoomx2 said:


> Download the Projectivy launcher, and go to setting autofocus. You need to sideload the app because T1 doesn't come with the Google store.


Stupid question, but does the result of autofocus remain intact even if you don't later use Projectivy as your launcher, etc (not sure I would or wouldn't; downloaded the apk but haven't seen/used it)?


----------



## jacksonheight

donw said:


> My understanding is that you do not have to root the projector. And since you cannot run Google Play store, you can't download it from there. I believe you have to "side load" the app by downloading it on say your computer and putting it on a thumb drive which you move over to the T1. I have never done this, but it is my understanding.
> Here is where Spocky12, the developer stores and describes the code. I believe you can get it from this website:
> Projectivi


Sorry im so confused... lol
my formovie projector, once I sign in, has a google app store, where I can find the Projectivy app. I haven't done anything extra (rooting). I have Projectivy downloaded and clicked on it like I would youtube. Is this not how it's suppose to work?
Edit: I cant find anything to fix focus etc though in Projectivy


----------



## donw

jacksonheight said:


> Sorry im so confused... lol
> my formovie projector, once I sign in, has a google app store, where I can find the Projectivy app. I haven't done anything extra (rooting). I have Projectivy downloaded and clicked on it like I would youtube. Is this not how it's suppose to work?
> Edit: I cant find anything to fix focus etc though in Projectivy


Do you have the Chinese T1 or the Global T1? The Chinese has an altered version of Android, but the new Global T1 has actual Android. It sounds like you have the Global version.


----------



## donw

jacksonheight said:


> Sorry im so confused... lol
> my formovie projector, once I sign in, has a google app store, where I can find the Projectivy app. I haven't done anything extra (rooting). I have Projectivy downloaded and clicked on it like I would youtube. Is this not how it's suppose to work?
> Edit: I cant find anything to fix focus etc though in Projectivy


Here is a tutorial for using autofocus in Projectivy written by user Pauljiang:
Projectivy Autofocus tutorial


----------



## zoomx2

ted_b said:


> Stupid question, but does the result of autofocus remain intact even if you don't later use Projectivy as your launcher, etc (not sure I would or wouldn't; downloaded the apk but haven't seen/used it)?


There has different settings for autofocus. You could turn it On every time it autofocus when powering on the unit. Or turn it Off not using it completely. You could just use the auto focus once to sharp the image and don't need to use it anymore. It is just app to open engineer menu to access more setting. I also use it to disable the Chinese app.


----------



## donw

jacksonheight said:


> Sorry im so confused... lol
> my formovie projector, once I sign in, has a google app store, where I can find the Projectivy app. I haven't done anything extra (rooting). I have Projectivy downloaded and clicked on it like I would youtube. Is this not how it's suppose to work?
> Edit: I cant find anything to fix focus etc though in Projectivy


Once again, do you have the Chinese version or the new Global version, because I do not think Projectivy has been tested on the Global version T1.


----------



## jacksonheight

donw said:


> Once again, do you have the Chinese version or the new Global version, because I do not think Projectivy has been tested on the Global version T1.


 I'm almost postive I have the global version , just checked I have andoid tv 11 os. Looked all around couldnt' find anything that distinguishes global or chinese version


----------



## Brajesh

Projectivy partially works w/Global T1, but the engineering menu (which would be most useful) doesn't work.


----------



## zoomx2

jacksonheight said:


> I'm almost postive I have the global version , just checked I have andoid tv 11 os. Looked all around couldnt' find anything that distinguishes global or chinese version


You have a global version.


----------



## jacksonheight

Brajesh said:


> Projectivy partially works w/Global T1, but the engineering menu (which would be most useful) doesn't work.


ah dang, so can't auto focus since I can't install the fengmi engineering correct?
what if I root it? I'm not that techy but my friend knows all about the android system


----------



## Brajesh

Correct. Don't think there's a root for the global version yet? Even if you did, it looks like the necessary engineering app 'testsuite' isn't installed. It may be called something else on the global version; I'll try to browse the internal file structure and check.


----------



## 3sprit

Brajesh said:


> Projectivy partially works w/Global T1


Is it of any use to install it on the Theater (global)?


----------



## zaselim

rjyap said:


> Great image. I think the reason the color looks more pop as it's display in wide color mode. For game, color accuracy is not that important and I too prefer a more saturated color. Most TV still can't match the color gamut of tri-laser projector including OLED TV.


Yeah, don't know wht but the punchy colors on T1 just works, i don't like the saturated colors on my TV but somehow T1 just gives punchy colors only on right things and doesn't saturate everything like TVs/Projectors normally do and that is what i love about T1 the most. The natural punchy colors it gives only on certain things specially the magic like effects or glow effects. What i was saying that it will be good to have same colors as display mode in custom mode as well. The colors (color space) in display mode looks better than anyother preset including my custom settings except on custom mode it more brighter, punchier, sharper and have better contrast.


----------



## ted_b

donw said:


> Here is a tutorial for using autofocus in Projectivy written by user Pauljiang:
> Projectivy Autofocus tutorial


Thanks so much @donw (and @Pauljiang ) for this. Worked perfectly (at least to do autofocus).



zoomx2 said:


> There has different settings for autofocus. You could turn it On every time it autofocus when powering on the unit. Or turn it Off not using it completely. You could just use the auto focus once to sharp the image and don't need to use it anymore. It is just app to open engineer menu to access more setting. I also use it to disable the Chinese app.


Thanks @zoomx2 for the Projectivy autofocus idea. It made a significant, marked improvement in focus and clarity. I may try to explore other parts of the launcher, but if there are any Pauljang-like tutorials for the rest of Projectivy I'd be game. I'm more than a little concerned with the power it gives you (to improve as well as mess it up totally)


----------



## ProFragger

zoomx2 said:


> Download the Projectivy launcher, and go to setting autofocus. You need to sideload the app because T1 doesn't come with the Google store.


Do you have the auto focus instructions you use via Projectivy? I don't see a way to always kick that on when the projector boots or not. Appreciate your help!


----------



## spocky12

Brajesh said:


> Projectivy partially works w/Global T1, but the engineering menu (which would be most useful) doesn't work.


Hi,

Thanks for testing Projectivy on the T1 global.

Unfortunately, nobody sent me a system dump, so I'm not able to fully adapt it to this device yet . Seeing how many enthusiasts seem to be here, I don't understand how that could be.

Anyway, good news : if the Fengmi engineering menu icon is present in Projectivy on the t1g, it means that the app is present. But the way to execute it might have changed. I need a dump to learn more.

Regarding what you said on the other thread concerning the availability of Projectivy on the t1g, I don't understand. You seem to say that the version available on Google play is not the most recent one. It should be. Could you please give me the Projectivy version that you can download from the store ? (Should be 4.02)
Thanks !


Envoyé de mon Pixel 7 en utilisant Tapatalk


----------



## ted_b

@spocky12 is the autofocus setting saved when one does the last step in the @Pauljiang screenshot tutorial, meaning pressing the bottom button on the first Chinese language engineering page? Is there a further tutorial somehwere for us vidiots to slowly explore your great launcher?


----------



## zoomx2

ted_b said:


> @spocky12 is the autofocus setting saved when one does the last step in the @Pauljiang screenshot tutorial, meaning pressing the bottom button on the first Chinese language engineering page? Is there a further tutorial somehwere for us vidiots to slowly explore your great launcher?


Yes, it is. You don't need to turn it On permanently.


----------



## zoomx2

spocky12 said:


> Hi,
> 
> Thanks for testing Projectivy on the T1 global.
> 
> Unfortunately, nobody sent me a system dump, so I'm not able to fully adapt it to this device yet . Seeing how many enthusiasts seem to be here, I don't understand how that could be.
> 
> Anyway, good news : if the Fengmi engineering menu icon is present in Projectivy on the t1g, it means that the app is present. But the way to execute it might have changed. I need a dump to learn more.
> 
> Regarding what you said on the other thread concerning the availability of Projectivy on the t1g, I don't understand. You seem to say that the version available on Google play is not the most recent one. It should be. Could you please give me the Projectivy version that you can download from the store ? (Should be 4.02)
> Thanks !
> 
> 
> Envoyé de mon Pixel 7 en utilisant Tapatalk


@Brajesh, if you can send a dump to Spocky12 that would be great. I know many have an issue of focus for their global version. Maybe he can open more Andriod setting for the T1 as well.


----------



## 3sprit

spocky12 said:


> Unfortunately, nobody sent me a system dump,


I have no idea how this can be done, sorry. 🤷‍♂️ 
I have a Theater (T1G).


----------



## rooterha

I still have a Fengmi T1 Chinese version for sale, $1600 shipped. PM me if interested.


----------



## Brajesh

zoomx2 said:


> @Brajesh, if you can send a dump to Spocky12 that would be great. I know many have an issue of focus for their global version. Maybe he can open more Andriod setting for the T1 as well.


Here you go @spocky12. Hope this will do as the command line w/adb seemed somewhat complicated. Found this app to instead.







(Click above to enlarge, or try here)


----------



## spocky12

Thank you for your reactivity ! 
Unfortunately, this is not exactly what I need. What you gave me is a dump of the system variables. 
What I need is a dump of the files (so as to explore the intereseting files for your device, as well as reverse engineer the fengmi engineering app to check how it can be launched) 
Of course, some files can't be copied due to the fact that we don't have root permission. However, most of the interesting files should be accessible.

Here's a small tutorial :
1- download adb on your computer and setup the projector for adb connection (check here : How to install ADB on Windows, macOS, and Linux)
2- Start a shell prompt on your computer and type "adb connect IP_OF_YOUR_DEVICE:5555" to connect using ADB over WIFI
3- in the shell, create a directory : mkdir t1-dump, then enter inside it : cd t1-dump
4- run the different commands below to pull the files (there will be errors on files requiring root, it's not a problem)
adb pull /product
adb pull /vendor
adb pull /etc
adb pull /system_ext
adb pull /system/app
adb pull /system/bin
adb pull /system/framework
adb pull /system/lib
adb pull /system/priv-app
5- Zip it and upload it somewhere I can access (google drive...)

Don't worry, it won't contain any personal information (these are in /data, which is not dumped by the previous commands).

Thanks again !


----------



## spocky12

ted_b said:


> @spocky12 is the autofocus setting saved when one does the last step in the @Pauljiang screenshot tutorial, meaning pressing the bottom button on the first Chinese language engineering page? Is there a further tutorial somehwere for us vidiots to slowly explore your great launcher?


As @zoomx2 wrote, this is saved, so you should only need to run it once.
Regarding Projectivy Launcher, I've detailed most of its functions here : [APP][ANDROID TV] Projectivy Launcher (but I didn't go as far as detailing the engineering menus that you can acces through Projectivy as this is subject to change and I don't speak chinese)


----------



## Brajesh

Update: Never mind, figured it out... dump here .

Thanks for the excellent instructions @spocky12. I'm getting errors in trying to pull data. Have developer options enabled & USB debugging on (and gave my PC permission on the projector)...


----------



## zoomx2

@spocky12 hope you can crack it very soon.


----------



## spocky12

Thanks ! But once again, I'll need a bit more : on my T1, the commands I send you were sufficient, but on the T1G the file permissions are not the same. Which leads to 3 empty directories in your dump : product, system_ext, vendor (although some of their inner files/directories can be accessed, the global command to pull everything recursively failed).
I've just tested it on my Nvidia Shield, and the commands below should work (run them in your folder t1g-dump) :

# this will try to pull the "product" inner files/directories into your own "product" directory
adb pull /product/app /product
adb pull /product/etc /product
adb pull /product/lib64 /product
adb pull /product/priv-app /product

# this will try to pull the "system_ext" inner files/directories into your own "system_ext"directory
adb pull /system_ext/app /system_ext
adb pull /system_ext/etc /system_ext
adb pull /system_ext/framework /system_ext
adb pull /system_ext/priv-app /system_ext

# unfortunately, it seems that on my nvidia shield, the files from the vendor directory can't be accessed at all, let's hope it's not the same on the T1G
adb pull /vendor/app /vendor
adb pull /vendor/etc /vendor
adb pull /vendor/lib /vendor
adb pull /vendor/lib64 /vendor
adb pull /vendor/framework /vendor
adb pull /vendor/priv-app /vendor


----------



## Sam Ash

Has anyone been nice enough to share calibration settings when used in conjunction with 100" or 120" lenticular screens? 

Is the Formovie Fengmi T1 also known as the Formovie Theater?


----------



## Brajesh

@spocky12, not looking good to peer into those folders


----------



## spocky12

Brajesh said:


> @spocky12, not looking good to peer into those folders
> View attachment 3353465


I suppose you emptied the t1-dump before doing this, so you'll have to recreate those folder :
mkdir vendor
mkdir system_ext
mkdir product
Then you can execute the commands I gave you


----------



## Brajesh

spocky12 said:


> I suppose you emptied the t1-dump before doing this, so you'll have to recreate those folder :
> mkdir vendor
> mkdir system_ext
> mkdir product
> Then you can execute the commands I gave you


Let me PM you to see if we can solve this.


----------



## antjes

Brajesh said:


> Let me PM you to see if we can solve this.


Thank you guys for the effort.

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## donw

Sam Ash said:


> Has anyone been nice enough to share calibration settings when used in conjunction with 100" or 120" lenticular screens?
> 
> Is the Formovie Fengmi T1 also known as the Formovie Theater?


No, the Formovie Theater is the global version of the T1...a whole different design.


----------



## jacksonheight

Has anyone with the global version have their wireless just disconnect on its own? I thought it was my wifi at first, but I restarted the router etc and still can't connect. But oddly enough my old projector with chromecast is able to connect to the wifi no problem....
Edit: readded network and back on.... odd I had to do that


----------



## Brajesh

Yep, it happens often. Just restart/reboot and it'll connect again. But, it's an unresolved bug I hope Fengmi fixes.


----------



## mirzank

Is projectivy launcher the same as projectivy tools ? I have a global formovie theatre and I see projectivy launcher in App Store but not projectivy tools. 


spocky12 said:


> or


----------



## spocky12

mirzank said:


> Is projectivy launcher the same as projectivy tools ? I have a global formovie theatre and I see projectivy launcher in App Store but not projectivy tools.


Projectivy Tools were a bunch of tools (amongst which there was a simple launcher) developped to improve UX on chinese xiaomi projectors (that were on Android 6.0, where is was "easy" to hack things).
Projectivy Launcher is a full Android Tv launcher that also offers different tools (the same as PT + a few more) to improve UX on different devices.
To sum it up, Projectivy Launcher is the successor of Projectivy Tools, with a change of priority


----------



## zoomx2

@spocky12, do you know is any way to turn off DV support in T1? Sometimes, I use Projectivy to watch DV content, in Picture Setting to change different modes but it seems never to stay in that mode.


----------



## jacksonheight

Question: I have the vividstorm ground up projector screen. Do you guys extend the view to the very edge of the screen, or leave a small space at the edge so there's a frame showing?


----------



## boogaliwoogali

jacksonheight said:


> Question: I have the vividstorm ground up projector screen. Do you guys extend the view to the very edge of the screen, or leave a small space at the edge so there's a frame showing?


I have it set to the very edge of the screen myself. I have the vividstorm top-down projector screen, it seems to be pretty good quality.

This is an image of it in full daylight, you can see where I've got the top edge of the display from that hopefully.


----------



## DesertDog

jacksonheight said:


> Question: I have the vividstorm ground up projector screen. Do you guys extend the view to the very edge of the screen, or leave a small space at the edge so there's a frame showing?


Very small frame, like a half inch. I went as close as I could get to the edge without seeing any "bleed through". That's not really the right term since it was more of a reflection but you get the point.  I got as close as I could with it looking good.


----------



## jacksonheight

I was getting it to the very edge but wasn't sure if I should catch that last bit of the 120", blurry from being stretched or something


----------



## Brajesh

antjes said:


> Thank you guys for the effort.


Paid off it seems.


----------



## Makabaka_

boogaliwoogali，帖子：62077476，成员：9647923 said:


> 我自己把它设置在屏幕的最边缘。我有vividstorm自上而下的投影仪屏幕，看起来质量不错。
> 
> 这是它在全日光下的图像，你可以看到我希望从中得到显示器顶部边缘的位置。
> 
> [附加=完整]3353963[/附加]
> [/引用]
> Wow. Looks great! The flatness of the screen is much more perfect than I imagined. It's so clear even during the day.


----------



## leo0111127

rooterha said:


> I still have a Fengmi T1 Chinese version for sale, $1600 shipped. PM me if interested.


What's your next target projector?


----------



## 249766785

boogaliwoogali said:


> I have it set to the very edge of the screen myself. I have the vividstorm top-down projector screen, it seems to be pretty good quality.
> 
> This is an image of it in full daylight, you can see where I've got the top edge of the display from that hopefully.
> 
> View attachment 3353963


I saw the videos on youtube for Formovie Theatre and the VIVIDSTORM UST alr light resistant screen, and the quality is amazing!
Look forward to seeing the movie theater and sharing if it really is all it's broken up.
The VIVIDSTORM anti-light screen will be sharper than if it is projected on a white wall.


----------



## Alipapa

donw said:


> No, the Formovie Theater is the global version of the T1...a whole different design.


I thought there were just software and calibration difference


----------



## donw

Alipapa said:


> I thought there were just software and calibration difference


Processor, memory...lots of hardware differences, too.


----------



## Tyronious

Is there a fix to the input handshake issue yet? I looked through a few pages of comments but couldn’t find anything. It’s wildly annoying.


----------



## Brajesh

No unfortunately. Have to live with it on both Chinese & Global T1's... unless any firmware Fengmi may be working on addresses the issue.


----------



## dami1337

antjes said:


> This is nothing compare with the DTM that you get with LLDV-To-HDR trick.
> Besides, in T1 display LED is better than LLDV.
> Again, for *T1 users* EZCOO is worthy for forcing EDID and avoid HDMI handshake issue. Other than that is waste money.
> But of course, I agree, everybody is owner of his money


From this thread: Alternative Devices for Enabling Low Latency Dolby...


----------



## antjes

dami1337 said:


> From this thread: Alternative Devices for Enabling Low Latency Dolby...


There is another way to avoid HDMI handshake issue. (Not for streaming services) If you have a player which can force a EDID, Z9x does It very well. It let you copy T1 EDID and then you add It to custom EDIDs.
I have Vertex 1, can do It as well but Im still a noob in this device.
A used Z9x is cheap and really worthy.


Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## mirzank

Deleted as wrong thread


----------



## Tyronious

@antjes I own a 8K VRROOM 40Gbps and haven’t set it up. Can that device help me with the input handshake issue???


----------



## antjes

I guess that if you select a custom EDID for the output then you will solve it, that custom edid can be T1, but I don’t know how to copy it in your device.
Better to ask in the specific thread for VROOM.


----------



## mirzank

Can someone tell me the stated amps and watts consumed of this projector ? I can’t find it anywhere in the manual and I’m not home to check.


----------



## antjes

According to Gregory from mondoprojos.fr.
Depend on the Mode
333w
285w
234w
171w









Test Fengmi Formovie T1 : l'avis de Grégory. - Mondoprojos.fr


Depuis plusieurs années maintenant je suis de près l’évolution du marché de la vidéoprojection et la part de plus en plus importante prise par les projecteurs à ultra courte focale. Ce domaine est dominé à l’international par Xiaomi et sa société rivale mais néanmoins proche Fengmi. Depuis 2017...




www.mondoprojos.fr







Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## mirzank

antjes said:


> According to Gregory from mondoprojos.fr.
> Depend on the Mode
> 333w
> 285w
> 234w
> 171w
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test Fengmi Formovie T1 : l'avis de Grégory. - Mondoprojos.fr
> 
> 
> Depuis plusieurs années maintenant je suis de près l’évolution du marché de la vidéoprojection et la part de plus en plus importante prise par les projecteurs à ultra courte focale. Ce domaine est dominé à l’international par Xiaomi et sa société rivale mais néanmoins proche Fengmi. Depuis 2017...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.mondoprojos.fr
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


Any idea the number of amps ? I am going to add a smart plug to it to be able to restart if needed. I think it’s Amps=watt/volts but based on that it would be 0.77 amps to 1.5 amp that seems super low (I’m in Europe so 220v). That’s the amps of like a phone charger.


----------



## antjes

mirzank said:


> Any idea the number of amps ? I am going to add a smart plug to it to be able to restart if needed. I think it’s Amps=watt/volts but based on that it would be 0.77 amps to 1.5 amp that seems super low (I’m in Europe so 220v). That’s the amps of like a phone charger.


Your calculation is right, about 1 Amp. This is normal.
No compare with phone charger, It uses 5volts output.

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Tanizhq

Is anyone having issues with Atmos TRUEHD 7.1 being passed through eArc on the T1? I am getting audio stuttering every few seconds, only happens with Atmos TrueHD 7.1, no other format.

Playing them from Plex on the Nvidia Shield, everything set to passthrough


----------



## mirzank

Tanizhq said:


> Is anyone having issues with Atmos TRUEHD 7.1 being passed through eArc on the T1? I am getting audio stuttering every few seconds, only happens with Atmos TrueHD 7.1, no other format.
> 
> Playing them from Plex on the Nvidia Shield, everything set to passthrough


I don’t remember the exact issue but plex has some issue playing true hd 7.1 if I remember correctly.


----------



## Tanizhq

mirzank said:


> I don’t remember the exact issue but plex has some issue playing true hd 7.1 if I remember correctly.


I thought so too, but I even rolled back and was using builds where it is more stable and it seems to not make a difference, I think there is something wrong with the eARC port on the T1, even though it is set to Passthrough, it seems to messing up the signal somehow


----------



## 3sprit

antjes said:


> According to Gregory from mondoprojos.fr.
> Depend on the Mode
> 333w
> 285w
> 234w
> 171w


Interestingly, the Theater only has 3 levels of brightness.
I'll try to measure the consumption


----------



## ProFragger

Guys, anyone using a Samsung soundbar with an HDFury device and the T1 with Shield? 

I had the Audio going to T1 perfectly via the Audio Out of the Vertex2 via a Vizio soundbar inputting into its HDMI in. T1 had eARC output set up to Auto and I had zero issues. 

Ever since the Samsung sound bar. After a reboot of the T1 or something along those lines, the audio is just not returning UNLESS I unplug and plug the soundbar. When I do this, the sound pops up with the same settings I had for the Vizio. Without the unplug/plug, I cannot get the sound to return. Obviously, as you can imagine with a UST console and the power cord in the back of the console, this plug/unplug is not sustainable as even the slight shift of the console or a lean on it, requires screen calibration! 

Can someone share their settings on this set up, working, please? Thanks!


----------



## zoomx2

ProFragger said:


> Guys, anyone using a Samsung soundbar with an HDFury device and the T1 with Shield?
> 
> I had the Audio going to T1 perfectly via the Audio Out of the Vertex2 via a Vizio soundbar inputting into its HDMI in. T1 had eARC output set up to Auto and I had zero issues.
> 
> Ever since the Samsung sound bar. After a reboot of the T1 or something along those lines, the audio is just not returning UNLESS I unplug and plug the soundbar. When I do this, the sound pops up with the same settings I had for the Vizio. Without the unplug/plug, I cannot get the sound to return. Obviously, as you can imagine with a UST console and the power cord in the back of the console, this plug/unplug is not sustainable as even the slight shift of the console or a lean on it, requires screen calibration!
> 
> Can someone share their settings on this set up, working, please? Thanks!


You only use EARC/ HDMI3 only if you use T1 internal apps. I would run HDFury video out to HDMI1/2, audio out to sound bar. That’s all you have to do.


----------



## ProFragger

zoomx2 said:


> You only use EARC/ HDMI3 only if you use T1 internal apps. I would run HDFury video out to HDMI1/2, audio out to sound bar. That’s all you have to do.


Yep, this is what I did, bud. Vizio was working well and as intended. The Samsung loses audio on the reboot, until plugged and unplugged! So bizarre! 

Can you share your HDFury settings? Anything I need to look out for in EDID and CEC tabs? 

Thanks, appreciate anyone's help here. Thanks!


----------



## zoomx2

I don’t use HDFury can’t help you sorry.


----------



## ted_b

zoomx2 said:


> You only use EARC/ HDMI3 only if you use T1 internal apps. I would run HDFury video out to HDMI1/2, audio out to sound bar. That’s all you have to do.


I run a single HDMI from my pre/pro to the T1 (HDMI3). I have no need for eARC, etc. Are you saying I should use HDMI 1 or 2, and why are they better? Thanks cuz it would be an easy fix.
Ted


----------



## Brajesh

HDFury does not help with T1/Theater's HDMI handshake issues unfortunately.


----------



## JereyWolf

Brajesh said:


> HDFury does not help with T1/Theater's HDMI handshake issues unfortunately.


This has been my experience too. I've had my VRROOM in my signal chain for 6 months and about half of the time during start up it's acting as if it's limited to hdmi 1.4 and I have to toggle the setting to get 4k/60hz to send.


----------



## zoomx2

ted_b said:


> I run a single HDMI from my pre/pro to the T1 (HDMI3). I have no need for eARC, etc. Are you saying I should use HDMI 1 or 2, and why are they better? Thanks cuz it would be an easy fix.
> Ted


You use an eARC port for audio to AVR/ Soundbar.


----------



## ted_b

zoomx2 said:


> You use an eARC port for audio to AVR/ Soundbar.


?? No I don't! I said in my post that I do not use nor care about eARC (since all my audio comes from the sources switched through the pre/pro, a Lyngdorf MP-40). My question was whether there is any downside to my using HDMI3 or should I switch to HDMI1 or HDMI2? If so, why, what is special about them?
Thx


----------



## antjes

There are still people asking about the redish tint in HDR or DV.
I wanna give my experience, just for helping others and comparing with your units.

When I got my T1, I Updated in my first start so I dont remember the old firmware PQ.

I dont have red faces or that redish people coment, but I know what they say because in some configurations I can get It.

If I play local content using Zidoo I never get that problem, I can use VS10 engine for HDR, and send LLDV. For DV content the same.
I get the redish problem only with steaming services under specific circunstancies, using FireStick 4k or Chromecast GT, If I config always DV just for sending LLDV, when I play a HDR movie a get slightly redish faces, that movies in HDR are ok, It is like the conversion is not good.
Besides, in Zidoo I notice how VS10 does good LLDV, for instance in Megalodon, but in those streamers I dont notice any kind of DTM improvement.
Then this is my opinion, the problem is not in the projector, is in the HDR - LLDV conversion done by at least my streaming devices, It is like a fake DV.

Whats your experience?

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## ted_b

ted_b said:


> ?? No I don't! I said in my post that I do not use nor care about eARC (since all my audio comes from the sources switched through the pre/pro, a Lyngdorf MP-40). My question was whether there is any downside to my using HDMI3 or should I switch to HDMI1 or HDMI2? If so, why, what is special about them?
> Thx


To follow up on this question about which T1 input to use (or whether it matters) I guess I chose HDMI3 cuz it's furthest from the power supply connector...dunno really. But...if I choose to move my sole HDMI cable over to, say, HDMI1, do I lose the settings (temporarily until I do same for HDMI1)? I ask cuz I am lazy at writing down all the custom display settings and @m0jo color settings I've happened upon. No big deal, really I will just take pics of the settings overlay screens. but wondered all the same.


----------



## indarkness

I have major eARC issue with fengmi t1 (Chinese version) when connecting a Samsung Q900a. It just doesn't work most of time. Sometimes doing the following can get earc working.
Switch to T1 internal speaker, reboot
Switch to HDMI-eARC, reboot
Turn off all the power supply to T1 and soundbar, cold boot, there is still no sound at this time, then shut off soundbar power supply then turn it back on. eARC will start working till I turn off the T1.

Anybody having similar issue on eARC? Any ideas on why it happens!?


----------



## rjyap

ted_b said:


> To follow up on this question about which T1 input to use (or whether it matters) I guess I chose HDMI3 cuz it's furthest from the power supply connector...dunno really. But...if I choose to move my sole HDMI cable over to, say, HDMI1, do I lose the settings (temporarily until I do same for HDMI1)? I ask cuz I am lazy at writing down all the custom display settings and @m0jo color settings I've happened upon. No big deal, really I will just take pics of the settings overlay screens. but wondered all the same.


The settings are per input.


----------



## andreas.werner699

Is it possible to watch 3D movies on the T1 with a 3DFury, does anyone know anything about this?


----------



## rjyap

andreas.werner699 said:


> Is it possible to watch 3D movies on the T1 with a 3DFury, does anyone know anything about this?


Nope. If u want 3D, go for AWOL 3500.


----------



## andreas.werner699

Thanks for the info


----------



## ProFragger

indarkness said:


> I have major eARC issue with fengmi t1 (Chinese version) when connecting a Samsung Q900a. It just doesn't work most of time. Sometimes doing the following can get earc working.
> Switch to T1 internal speaker, reboot
> Switch to HDMI-eARC, reboot
> Turn off all the power supply to T1 and soundbar, cold boot, there is still no sound at this time, then shut off soundbar power supply then turn it back on. eARC will start working till I turn off the T1.
> 
> Anybody having similar issue on eARC? Any ideas on why it happens!?


Yep! This is the problem I posted with my use of Q99B. Except no solution worked for me other than the unplug soundbar and then when it's plugged, the sound pops on!

I do use it with an HDFury Vertex2 in the chain, not sure if that matters. And if you don't, maybe this is a Samsung soundbar issue with this projector.

With all of that said, one of my workarounds to this was to plug my soundbar to a smart plug, eliminating the need for the unplug/plug, HOWEVER, magically, ever since I added the plug, the sound is always there now with the reboots... so I don't know how to explain this ...? Thanks for sharing your experience.


----------



## ProFragger

antjes said:


> There are still people asking about the redish tint in HDR or DV.
> I wanna give my experience, just for helping others and comparing with your units.
> 
> When I got my T1, I Updated in my first start so I dont remember the old firmware PQ.
> 
> I dont have red faces or that redish people coment, but I know what they say because in some configurations I can get It.
> 
> If I play local content using Zidoo I never get that problem, I can use VS10 engine for HDR, and send LLDV. For DV content the same.
> I get the redish problem only with steaming services under specific circunstancies, using FireStick 4k or Chromecast GT, If I config always DV just for sending LLDV, when I play a HDR movie a get slightly redish faces, that movies in HDR are ok, It is like the conversion is not good.
> Besides, in Zidoo I notice how VS10 does good LLDV, for instance in Megalodon, but in those streamers I dont notice any kind of DTM improvement.
> Then this is my opinion, the problem is not in the projector, is in the HDR - LLDV conversion done by at least my streaming devices, It is like a fake DV.
> 
> Whats your experience?
> 
> Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


Thanks for sharing your experience. I only use streamers and native HDMI processing with a Vertex2 on the T1, not the Projectivy ones and here is my experience:


Shield Pro + Match Content + Native DV (actually Dolby Vision movies) + Netflix + Vertex2 = Red lips
Chromecast + Force LLDV + Native DV (haven't tested HDR or no DV content) + Netflix + Vertex 2 = Red lips
Shield Pro + Match Content + Native DV (DV Logo pops up) - (no) Vertex2 = No red lips, but lose the brightness and other settings

Not sure if this will help anyone. 

Separate topic: Anyone heard of any updates coming out from Fengmi?


----------



## ted_b

If anyone here uses Arcana (or the subset of its video functionality in an HDFury device; no interest in eARC) on the T1 (or similar UST innerds) could he/she PM me. I don't want to clutter this thread. I use mainly 3 sources: Sony 800M2 bluray, Zidoo Z9X and ATV4K (along with Xfinity cable box, but that thing has little flexibility and is only used for live sports mostly). All are switched via a Lyngdorf MP-40 pre/pro. I have not unboxed my Aracana cuz I'm a vidiot and know little about how it works. My goal is to play DV and HDR movies without the red push and with better overall brightness.

I simply want instructions on where to put it (careful  ) and what to look for. Right now I am sending most sources to the T1 in SDR mode, without the Arcana of course. Each source box has the ability to option out things like HDR, DV, etc. The T1, when presented DV, is dark and a bit reddish, so others have done the SDR thing, or put an HDFury device in line somewhere. I've PM'd lattiboy several times (he's used one and posted here) but not ever heard back so I'm reaching out. 
Thx
Ted


----------



## MarcusD777

ted_b said:


> If anyone here uses Arcana (or the subset of its video functionality in an HDFury device; no interest in eARC) on the T1 (or similar UST innerds) could he/she PM me. I don't want to clutter this thread. I use mainly 3 sources: Sony 800M2 bluray, Zidoo Z9X and ATV4K (along with Xfinity cable box, but that thing has little flexibility and is only used for live sports mostly). All are switched via a Lyngdorf MP-40 pre/pro. I have not unboxed my Aracana cuz I'm a vidiot and know little about how it works. My goal is to play DV and HDR movies without the red push and with better overall brightness.
> 
> I simply want instructions on where to put it (careful  ) and what to look for. Right now I am sending most sources to the T1 in SDR mode, without the Arcana of course. Each source box has the ability to option out things like HDR, DV, etc. The T1, when presented DV, is dark and a bit reddish, so others have done the SDR thing, or put an HDFury device in line somewhere. I've PM'd lattiboy several times (he's used one and posted here) but not ever heard back so I'm reaching out.
> Thx
> Ted


I have my HD Fury vertex 2 last in line before my projector. All my sources hit it from my main receiver before getting to the projector. This ensures the final hdmi handshake to the projector is solid and I can see a visible display of the source info correctly.


----------



## spocky12

ProFragger said:


> Thanks for sharing your experience. I only use streamers and native HDMI processing with a Vertex2 on the T1, not the Projectivy ones and here is my experience:
> 
> 
> Shield Pro + Match Content + Native DV (actually Dolby Vision movies) + Netflix + Vertex2 = Red lips
> Chromecast + Force LLDV + Native DV (haven't tested HDR or no DV content) + Netflix + Vertex 2 = Red lips
> Shield Pro + Match Content + Native DV (DV Logo pops up) - (no) Vertex2 = No red lips, but lose the brightness and other settings
> 
> Not sure if this will help anyone.
> 
> Separate topic: Anyone heard of any updates coming out from Fengmi?


Last time I checked (a few days ago), their latest internal beta firmware was still the same (somewhere in August if I remember well).
There used to be more updates on their previous Chinese devices. Perhaps they have a larger number of devices but didn't grow the developer team enough.
Or maybe they just continue their work on FengOs but don't publish internal releases for the T1 until some global fixes are ready.
Last option, they have planned an major os upgrade (which changed the name of their firmware, resulting in another url that I can't guess). Low chances on this one imo.


----------



## ACE844

Does anyone know what the correct drop from the bottom of the screen and distance from wall to back of the T1 for a 107 in screen?
@Formovie Official ?


----------



## antjes

spocky12 said:


> Last time I checked (a few days ago), their latest internal beta firmware was still the same (somewhere in August if I remember well).
> There used to be more updates on their previous Chinese devices. Perhaps they have a larger number of devices but didn't grow the developer team enough.
> Or maybe they just continue their work on FengOs but don't publish internal releases for the T1 until some global fixes are ready.
> Last option, they have planned an major os upgrade (which changed the name of their firmware, resulting in another url that I can't guess). Low chances on this one imo.


It was confirmed in Formovie Theater thread that Formovie staff will participate in the forum, at least in that thread, maybe this is a good chance to approach them.

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## ted_b

ACE844 said:


> Does anyone know what the correct drop from the bottom of the screen and distance from wall to back of the T1 for a 107 in screen?
> @Formovie Official ?


If you do the math on the difference between 100 and 120 inches (documented) then 107 will be about 14.1 inches from bottom, and 9.4 inches from screen face (not wall; wall could be anywhere behind screen of course). With my 120" Vividstorm I initally placed the T1 at the documented 120 inch position and had very little tweaking to do (alignment was whole 'nother thing but that's hugely dependent on your squareness of installation, floor level, etc).


----------



## ACE844

ted_b said:


> If you do the math on the difference between 100 and 120 inches (documented) then 107 will be about 14.1 inches from bottom, and 9.4 inches from screen face (not wall; wall could be anywhere behind screen of course). With my 120" Vividstorm I initally placed the T1 at the documented 120 inch position and had very little tweaking to do (alignment was whole 'nother thing but that's hugely dependent on your squareness of installation, floor level, etc).


Happy to hear I'm not alone in having a challenging level/alignment situation. Because the levels of the floor and wall were so disparate my distances were all off what the manual and calculators recommended. I did the math but wanted to make sure my numbers matched others. 

I'm going to try a couple of different mounts to mitigate some of the install challenges and a wall mount is one of them. However I think it's important to be precise with these...


----------



## Alipapa

Got the screen and the T1 properly mounted for about 1 week, and found the color setting is so extreme that even 1 to 2 digit of brightness setting can change the outcome by a margin.

Also it is very hard to find the desired adjustment on the RGB for a new comer like me. I was able to cal my old OLED (Panasonic EZ1000) effortlessly and this time I am still struggling to find the correct direction.

with three hundreds some pages of discussion, it is going to take me quite some time to digest all your valuable input


----------



## JereyWolf

Alipapa said:


> Got the screen and the T1 properly mounted for about 1 week, and found the color setting is so extreme that even 1 to 2 digit of brightness setting can change the outcome by a margin.
> 
> Also it is very hard to find the desired adjustment on the RGB for a new comer like me. I was able to cal my old OLED (Panasonic EZ1000) effortlessly and this time I am still struggling to find the correct direction.
> 
> with three hundreds some pages of discussion, it is going to take me quite some time to digest all your valuable input


Just make sure to not use "office" brightness mode if are trying to make rgb gain adjustments, that mode disables control.


----------



## Alipapa

zaselim said:


> Hello everyone, how's everyone doing?
> It's been a while since i visited the thread. I wanted to let everyone know if any of you don't know already and if anyone of you do and can improve upon it then It'll be great.
> So, i was playing Uncharted Legacy of Thieves collection (PC) today, and I always do a comparison with my Samsung 4k HDR10+ TV to see how T1 looks compare to it(and T1 always looks more punchier in colors even with HDR turned off from the source which always amazes me and put a smile on my face), and i was at this puzzle screen and I saw there was some more green or should i say less redish yellow tone on T1 image and Green was also looking slightly different. I then checked all the preset mods and noticed that Display mode is the most accurate in colors compare to my TV. So I started to match it on custom RGB sliders and i got very close at R:1035, G:1045, B:1038, i was still missing some thing so I change the brightness mode to office and it matched the display mode but more brighter. I usually use dynamic contrast as it gives more punchy image in darker scenes while maintaining the shadow detail and deeper black/contrast on brighter scenes with all of my settings. So i went back to view mode and turned off the dynamic contrast and it got very very close to display colors (but brighter because Display mode is less brighter) and then I increased the saturation to 55-56 (from 48) and turned back on the dynamic contrast.
> Now i am very close to Display mode colors with way brighter picture like we all have with custom mode, But yellow tone a light red hint still looks a bit yellowish on some areas while matches with display mode on some.
> My current settings are:
> View Mode: Brightness 53, Contrast 53, Saturation 55, Tone: 47-48, R:1036, G:1045, B:1038 (previously were R:1030, G:1045, B:1038), Dynamic contrast: ON. I didn't mention sharpness because everyone has their own preference for it, mine is 57. It is very close in comparison to display mode, which is almost similar to my Samsung TV but with more punchy colors as T1 as beautiful punchy colors. When i turned down my brightness and contrast to 40-42 then It matches the display mode brightness.
> So when ever any of you get the time, check these settings to make a comparison with display mode to see how it looks and if you can improve it then please do if you haven't aleady. And any of you already have set RGB sliders (and tone) to match the display mode color tone then please let me know as well.
> I'll very much appreciate it, I don't have any problem with my settings right now but some times i notice the yellow with red hint looking yellow without the red hint and it just bugs me lol.
> Oh also attaching the image (HDR was off in game/windows), sorry for the JPG instead of PNG as it was over the size limit.
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3352718


This works very well for me, thanks for sharing. Still need to figure out how to solve the red face issue, blood on john wick 's face glow lol


----------



## ACE844

Alipapa said:


> This works very well for me, thanks for sharing. Still need to figure out how to solve the red face issue, blood on john wick 's face glow lol


This article (Dolby Vision on the NVIDIA Shield [Complete Guide] ) may provide some help for DV and LLDV use with the shield. as for the LLDV option in the developer menu, this am it would seem there is alot of debate on this. You can reference Alternative Devices for Enabling Low Latency Dolby... or so in the LLDV alt devices thread.
Additionally, it was listed in some locations as a way to address a Phillips TV bug.


https://www.xda-developers.com/nvidia-shield-experience-9-1-1-rollout/ said:


> Adds developer option to force Dolby Vision Low Latency if available
> Enable if Dolby Vision not properly detected on some Philips TVs







https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/forums/shield-tv/9/500813/always-output-dolby-vision/
HTH


----------



## pomonabill220

tnaik4 said:


> Guys i have really good news for whoever is brave enough!!!
> 
> I fixed the top half the image being out of focus, i was brave enough to take the projector cover off to see whats the problem cause i suspected the lens focus ring is stuck or somthing at a certain point because i had that issue once in a long throw lens before.
> And what do u know, that was exaxtly the issue, all i had to do was push with my finger the ring a little more to the edge and now focus is great, when u do this though do not try to focus again, cause once u take it back u cant get there with remote, i dont know why its stuck there but the good thing about ust is once u focus it it ll stay focused no matter what screen size u use. So just leave it there and forget it.
> 
> In the focus image, this is black velvet from the ceiling i m installing and didnt finish yet, its not a projector issue.


I am interested in this.... how do you keep dust off the mirror, or how do you clean it?


----------



## pomonabill220

I just received my Theater and just before I installed it, I noticed the mirror inside had some dust on it.
I think the optical path is "sealed" so blowing air through the vents won't work.
Is dust detrimental to the quality of the picture, or should I ask for a replacement?
I would think a $3K projector should be CLEAN and not have dust on the optics!


----------



## Fyllesvinet

About to buy the fengmi T1 or formovie Theater but can't decide 

T1 for 2150€ or 2799€ with 120" screen
Theatre 3299€ with 120" screen

It's black Friday prices now so have to decide this weekend.
Screen is a bundle pack with theater just added it with T1 for reference price.

I need a screen also but maybe I want a better one. Price for screen is only 649 for 120" or 449 100" so not the most expensive screen.

T1 is possible to buy "alone" the theatre is actually 3099 with 100" but want at least 120" screen and that is 200€ extra.

So what to choose, anyone with experience with both versions of T1 and can help me out or if anyone with T1 that can recommend it.


----------



## rjyap

Fyllesvinet said:


> About to buy the fengmi T1 or formovie Theater but can't decide
> 
> T1 for 2150€ or 2799€ with 120" screen
> Theatre 3299€ with 120" screen
> 
> It's black Friday prices now so have to decide this weekend.
> Screen is a bundle pack with theater just added it with T1 for reference price.
> 
> I need a screen also but maybe I want a better one. Price for screen is only 649 for 120" or 449 100" so not the most expensive screen.
> 
> T1 is possible to buy "alone" the theatre is actually 3099 with 100" but want at least 120" screen and that is 200€ extra.
> 
> So what to choose, anyone with experience with both versions of T1 and can help me out or if anyone with T1 that can recommend it.


If you don't have any video processor such as MadVR then go for global theater.


----------



## Sultantiran

Greetings to all forum members.
Many users of T1 projectors are interested in the issue of poor focus. I tried to fix it, I posted the result in the message #2625:








Formovie Theater - Enhanced Global / International...


Top is 50% BT2020. Bottom sweep is P3 in 2020. Shoot me a PM. Where did you buy your ForMovie? Thank you Dave. Sent you a message! Appreciated




www.avsforum.com


----------



## tormoznul

Hello everyone! I've noticed that my T1 shows really beautiful, vivid image right after startup, and in a second or two the contrast suddenly drops, and the image looks washed out (the pictures don't do it justice, the difference is really noticeable in person). Have anyone encountered the same behaviour, is it normal? Really bugs me out.


----------



## antjes

tormoznul said:


> Hello everyone! I've noticed that my T1 shows really beautiful, vivid image right after startup, and in a second or two the contrast suddenly drops, and the image looks washed out (the pictures don't do it justice, the difference is really noticeable in person). Have anyone encountered the same behaviour, is it normal? Really bugs me out.


I can see the same when It starts Up.

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## dami1337

tormoznul said:


> Hello everyone! I've noticed that my T1 shows really beautiful, vivid image right after startup, and in a second or two the contrast suddenly drops, and the image looks washed out (the pictures don't do it justice, the difference is really noticeable in person). Have anyone encountered the same behaviour, is it normal? Really bugs me out.


Same here


----------



## Bik14

Hi to all Fengmi T1 owners, After reading this interesting thread I have ordered my T1 from nothingbutlabel. It will be my very first projector coming from an old , but nice Pioneer plasma tv.

I have a basic question: Is it possible using on-board FengOs to access Google Play store ?

I am based in Poland and would like to download some local internet tv apps, like Polsat Go, etc. 

Thank you for your help.

Kind regards,


----------



## donw

Bik14 said:


> Hi to all Fengmi T1 owners, After reading this interesting thread I have ordered my T1 from nothingbutlabel. It will be my very first projector coming from an old , but nice Pioneer plasma tv.
> 
> I have a basic question: Is it possible using on-board FengOs to access Google Play store ?
> 
> I am based in Poland and would like to download some local internet tv apps, like Polsat Go, etc.
> 
> Thank you for your help.
> 
> Kind regards,


No. You'll have to use an external streaming box.


----------



## Bik14

donw said:


> No. You'll have to use an external streaming box.


~Thank you 
I guess Roku Ultra Will do it ?


----------



## Dave Harper

tormoznul said:


> Hello everyone! I've noticed that my T1 shows really beautiful, vivid image right after startup, and in a second or two the contrast suddenly drops, and the image looks washed out (the pictures don't do it justice, the difference is really noticeable in person). Have anyone encountered the same behaviour, is it normal? Really bugs me out.





antjes said:


> I can see the same when It starts Up.
> 
> Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk





dami1337 said:


> Same here


I have too, and the new settings I alluded to made it stay in that incredible image mode, but for some reason now I can’t replicate it!


----------



## tormoznul

Dave Harper said:


> I have too, and the new settings I alluded to made it stay in that incredible image mode, but for some reason now I can’t replicate it!


Yeah, same! I was tinkering with apple tv image output modes, T1 image modes, and somehow got an image with amazing contrast levels, but after changing some settings couldn't get it back.

Also, during that time my apple tv's image mode was 1080 dolby vision, but there was no pop-up when launching T1 (but maybe just didn't notice it).

Please, can you tell which settings did you change?


----------



## ProFragger

Sultantiran said:


> Greetings to all forum members.
> Many users of T1 projectors are interested in the issue of poor focus. I tried to fix it, I posted the result in the message #2625:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Formovie Theater - Enhanced Global / International...
> 
> 
> Top is 50% BT2020. Bottom sweep is P3 in 2020. Shoot me a PM. Where did you buy your ForMovie? Thank you Dave. Sent you a message! Appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


Thank you for your hard work and sharing if knowledge. Will it be possible for you to make a video guide/tutorial for this adjustment? I think it will be an asset of contribution for the community here and will give more people the confidence to try the solution.

Thanks again!


----------



## Sultantiran

ProFragger said:


> Thank you for your hard work and sharing if knowledge. Will it be possible for you to make a video guide/tutorial for this adjustment? I think it will be an asset of contribution for the community here and will give more people the confidence to try the solution.
> 
> Thanks again!


Hello.
I can't make a video guide yet, because I don't want to open the projector again . Maybe next time, if I accidentally press the focus adjustment buttons on the remote control, it will return to the factory position . There's really nothing complicated there:
1. Turn the projector over and put it on the table with its legs up. Remove the rubber plugs from the holes. This is done by simply pressing on the edge of the elastic band and then we pick it up and take it out. Two rubber bands do not need to be removed, there are no screws under them (this can be seen in my photos). The elastic band at the foot, which is located in the center at the back, is thick, it needs to be hooked with a thin screwdriver and pulled out.
2. Unscrew all the screws, including the one hidden under the warranty sticker (everyone decides for himself the question of preserving the warranty!). We also unscrew 4 small screws on the speaker panel. They are also hidden under self-adhesive rubber plugs (also in the photo).
3. Carefully turn the projector over and put it on the legs. Some screws that were not removed from the recesses in which they remained may fall out. I took out one screw from under the sofa .
4. Open the lid. To do this, first we pull it up from the side of the speaker grid. Next, lifting the lid a little, you need to pick it up from behind, where the connectors are located, and pull it back a little from the connectors. She's clinging to something there. Position the lid as shown in my photo. Be careful with the cables!
5. Next, you can plug the projector into an outlet and try to adjust the focus from the remote control - everything will immediately become clear what, where and how to turn the ring. Take care of your eyes, the laser radiation is very bright!
6. Having realized that it is possible to bring this adjustment ring to the stop (that is, the white inserts do not rest against the limiter), you can bring it to the end with your fingers. I directly took 2 screws on this ring and tried to move them in different directions. Considerable effort is required!
7. Well, then see what you got with focusing, and if everything suits you, then close the projector in reverse order. 
8. I don't remember one moment - I twisted the ring on the projector turned on or off, because in some version this ring came back. It's not difficult to just try and observe the ring while the projector is on/off - it should stay in place, in the most extreme position!


----------



## okvcos

Sultantiran said:


> Hello.
> I can't make a video guide yet, because I don't want to open the projector again . Maybe next time, if I accidentally press the focus adjustment buttons on the remote control, it will return to the factory position . There's really nothing complicated there:
> 1. Turn the projector over and put it on the table with its legs up. Remove the rubber plugs from the holes. This is done by simply pressing on the edge of the elastic band and then we pick it up and take it out. Two rubber bands do not need to be removed, there are no screws under them (this can be seen in my photos). The elastic band at the foot, which is located in the center at the back, is thick, it needs to be hooked with a thin screwdriver and pulled out.
> .........


Thank you very much ... sorry ... where are the photos you describe ?


----------



## okvcos

Dave Harper said:


> I have too, and the new settings I alluded to made it stay in that incredible image mode, but for some reason now I can’t replicate it!


I have a Xiaomi C2 + Vertex2 ... I have the same result , excluding HDR and leaving only LLDV .
Dave, post your setting just the same, maybe we can play with it a bit


----------



## Sultantiran

okvcos said:


> Thank you very much ... sorry ... where are the photos you describe ?











Formovie Theater - Enhanced Global / International...


Top is 50% BT2020. Bottom sweep is P3 in 2020. Shoot me a PM. Where did you buy your ForMovie? Thank you Dave. Sent you a message! Appreciated




www.avsforum.com


----------



## shyam.srini

Hi all, new to the forum. Have picked up the Formovie Theater. Wanted to find out if anyone was able to pair a subwoofer to this amazing sounding projector? (Apologies if this is something that has already been asked!)


----------



## Alipapa

rjyap said:


> View attachment 3310051
> 
> View attachment 3310050
> 
> View attachment 3310053
> 
> View attachment 3310052
> 
> Just done extensive test on Game mode in Projectivity and FengOS. I’m using Lenovo Legion 5 RTX 3070 with 165hz panel as latency test against T1 using stopwatch apps.
> 
> For anyone wanted to adjust white balance under game mode, you must switch to game mode first in FengOS, then go to projectivity mediatek settings and change the profile to game mode and double check the white balance menu. When u wanted to switch back to HDMI 3 input, DO NOT select HDMI 3 directly in your projectivity input selection. If u do this, it will automatically select standard color temp which is very bluish white. Instead select source then select HDMI 3 from the source menu. This is the only way I can get the white balance setting to stick.
> 
> User/custom mode around 116ms lag
> Game mode around 33ms lag (2 frames on 60hz)


do you find game mode automatically turn on dynamic contrast?

I find it very annoying that the overall video quality is very ow under game mode, especially when playing FIFA


----------



## rjyap

Alipapa said:


> do you find game mode automatically turn on dynamic contrast?
> 
> I find it very annoying that the overall video quality is very ow under game mode, especially when playing FIFA


Yes. There's no way to disable dynamic contrast.


----------



## Bik14

Hi,

Big thank you to all Fengmi T1 forum contributors  

Hopefully my T1 will arrive from nothingbutlable in time for Christmas.

Although, understandably, the vast majority of information is coming from the US based members, as I am based in Europe I would like to ask Europeans for advice regarding the gear their use to stream live content from internet, bearing in mind that my preferred option, i.e. Roku Ultra + hdFury is simply not available here. 

Have a good day !


----------



## M B 1977

Bik14 said:


> Hi, Big thank you to all Fengmi T1 forum contributors  Hopefully my T1 will arrive from nothingbutlable in time for Christmas. Although, understandably, the vast majority of information is coming from the US based members, as I am based in Europe I would like to ask Europeans for advice regarding the gear their use to stream live content from internet, bearing in mind that my preferred option, i.e. Roku Ultra + hdFury is simply not available here. Have a good day !


 Hi, i could recommend using Amazon FireStick 4K Max, works perfect. You could find often good offers around 30€. 😊


----------



## Bik14

M B 1977 said:


> Hi, i could recommend using Amazon FireStick 4K Max, works perfect. You could find often good offers around 30€. 😊


Hi M B 1977,

Thank you very much for your tip 

I have read good things about it.

The only potential drawback is lack of Ethernet port. Having a choice I would prefer cable ifibreoptic connection.


----------



## M B 1977

Bik14 said:


> Hi M B 1977,
> 
> Thank you very much for your tip
> 
> I have read good things about it.
> 
> The only potential drawback is lack of Ethernet port. Having a choice I would prefer cable ifibreoptic connection.


You could buy an Ethernet Adapter if necessary. But it supports Wifi 6, it's working flawless here, never had any issues 👍


----------



## Bik14

M B 1977 said:


> You could buy an Ethernet Adapter if necessary. But it supports Wifi 6, it's working flawless here, never had any issues 👍


Hi M B 1977, 

Great then. I will get it and try WiFi connection at first.

If not good enough I will add the adapter.

Many Thanks for your help.

Have a good day.

Kind regards,


----------



## spocky12

spocky12 said:


> Last time I checked (a few days ago), their latest internal beta firmware was still the same (somewhere in August if I remember well).
> There used to be more updates on their previous Chinese devices. Perhaps they have a larger number of devices but didn't grow the developer team enough.
> Or maybe they just continue their work on FengOs but don't publish internal releases for the T1 until some global fixes are ready.
> Last option, they have planned an major os upgrade (which changed the name of their firmware, resulting in another url that I can't guess). Low chances on this one imo.


You might be glad to learn I was wrong (there are still new internal builds) and right at the same time (I couldn't find them because the next release is considered as a major version).
The builds directly went from 2.1.3 to 3.0.0, the latest version was built on December 5th.
I still don't know when the public release is planned, though.


----------



## rjyap

spocky12 said:


> You might be glad to learn I was wrong (there are still new internal builds) and right at the same time (I couldn't find them because the next release is considered as a major version).
> The builds directly went from 2.1.3 to 3.0.0, the latest version was built on December 5th.
> I still don't know when the public release is planned, though.


Great news. I hope v3 will implement major feature upgrade such as laser dimming.


----------



## bortobro921

Formovie Fengmi C2. One white line on the left side of the screen. Heard that it could be line loop of matrix the contact keeps coming loose. HELP 🥺


----------



## Dave Harper

tormoznul said:


> Yeah, same! I was tinkering with apple tv image output modes, T1 image modes, and somehow got an image with amazing contrast levels, but after changing some settings couldn't get it back.
> 
> Also, during that time my apple tv's image mode was 1080 dolby vision, but there was no pop-up when launching T1 (but maybe just didn't notice it).
> 
> Please, can you tell which settings did you change?





okvcos said:


> I have a Xiaomi C2 + Vertex2 ... I have the same result , excluding HDR and leaving only LLDV .
> Dave, post your setting just the same, maybe we can play with it a bit


Right now this is what I am using and it kicks the ForMovie theater into its HDR10 mode and renders shadow details and peak white details incredibly well, the best I’ve seen actually. The 1917 stairwell scene is crazy good!


































Lord knows if it’ll stick though. I can turn it all off tonight and when I come back tomorrow it may not be the same and I may have to jump through hoops to get it to the same level!


----------



## okvcos

Dave Harper said:


> Lord knows if it’ll stick though. I can turn it all off tonight and when I come back tomorrow it may not be the same and I may have to jump through hoops to get it to the same level!


For me , with the XIAOMI C2 the screen remains black if I leave BACKLIGHT CTRL "supported" , I have to set "NO supported" .......
Why no Max lum and Min lum nits value?
Thank you Dave


----------



## antjes

Dave Harper said:


> Right now this is what I am using and it kicks the ForMovie theater into its HDR10 mode and renders shadow details and peak white details incredibly well, the best I’ve seen actually. The 1917 stairwell scene is crazy good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lord knows if it’ll stick though. I can turn it all off tonight and when I come back tomorrow it may not be the same and I may have to jump through hoops to get it to the same level!


Thank you Dave for the effort.
In my case though It was a disaster, I got TV LED DV and I had to restore Vertex2 to factory since I lost my parameters and picture stability.

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

okvcos said:


> For me , with the XIAOMI C2 the screen remains black if I leave BACKLIGHT CTRL "supported" , I have to set "NO supported" .......
> *Why no Max lum and Min lum nits value?*
> Thank you Dave


This way it sends the entire LLDV signal unadulterated. 



antjes said:


> Thank you Dave for the effort.
> In my case though It was a disaster, I got TV LED DV and I had to restore Vertex2 to factory since I lost my parameters and picture stability.
> 
> Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


Thanks for confirming that it sends TV Led DV!!! I reported this a few days ago for someone else to confirm and @xnappo asked for the Hex string but I haven’t heard back any of his results. 

Did you check the “Disable LLDV” check box under the HDR/AVI tab?


----------



## okvcos

Dave Harper said:


> Did you check the “Disable LLDV” check box under the HDR/AVI tab?


I have to leave everything unflagged, If enabled: “Disable LLDV” check box under the HDR/AVI tab the image is without contrast, image with soft colors and very bright 
So with the XIAOMI C2 work with BACKLIGHT CTRL "supported" .


----------



## antjes

Dave Harper said:


> This way it sends the entire LLDV signal unadulterated.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for confirming that it sends TV Led DV!!! I reported this a few days ago for someone else to confirm and @xnappo asked for the Hex string but I haven’t heard back any of his results.
> 
> Did you check the “Disable LLDV” check box under the HDR/AVI tab?


Yes, "Disable LLDV" box was marked. I set everything like you.
Other day I got different outcome.
The VERTEX became unestable and I lost custom EDIDs.
Thank you anycase. 
I'm pretty Happy using LLDV and sending HDR. From my point of view the most important is Max Lumens in DV tab, I established 350 


Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Brajesh

@Dave Harper, what about for something like AWOL that doesn't have DV (yet)? Thanks.


----------



## ted_b

Now that my boys have seen dad's new 120" 7.1.4 man cave (w/ T1, Lyngdorf, etc) they commented about playing their video games in there. It would be a nice incentive to get their lazy asses over  so.....is there anything or any setting I should be aware of on the T1 or the PS5 (the main video platform they use) that is different from the T1 talking (via the Lyngdorf) to my ATV4K, Sony 800M2 bluray or Zidoo Z9X (i.e are there lag issues or different profiles I need to know about?)


----------



## JereyWolf

ted_b said:


> Now that my boys have seen dad's new 120" 7.1.4 man cave (w/ T1, Lyngdorf, etc) they commented about playing their video games in there. It would be a nice incentive to get their lazy asses over  so.....is there anything or any setting I should be aware of on the T1 or the PS5 (the main video platform they use) that is different from the T1 talking (via the Lyngdorf) to my ATV4K, Sony 800M2 bluray or Zidoo Z9X (i.e are there lag issues or different profiles I need to know about?)


I think the only major thing to do is switch the T1 to the game picture mode.


----------



## Willie

spocky12 said:


> You might be glad to learn I was wrong (there are still new internal builds) and right at the same time (I couldn't find them because the next release is considered as a major version).
> The builds directly went from 2.1.3 to 3.0.0, the latest version was built on December 5th.
> I still don't know when the public release is planned, though.


@spocky12 Have you had the opportunity to figure out web access to a T1? That would be a heckuva' Christmas present for T1 owners


----------



## ACE844

Does anyone have any tips for dealing with/fixing a stuck pixel with these tri-laser UST's? It would appear I got one that I just noticed today and it's new. The unit is approx 5mos old. It gets a fair amount of use daily at least 8hrs.
@Formovie Official do you have any thoughts on this?


----------



## spocky12

Willie said:


> @spocky12 Have you had the opportunity to figure out web access to a T1? That would be a heckuva' Christmas present for T1 owners


What are you looking for exactly ?


----------



## Deanodxb

tormoznul said:


> Hello everyone! I've noticed that my T1 shows really beautiful, vivid image right after startup, and in a second or two the contrast suddenly drops, and the image looks washed out (the pictures don't do it justice, the difference is really noticeable in person). Have anyone encountered the same behaviour, is it normal? Really bugs me out.


This either an effect of dynamic contrast or a bug which prevents custom user settings loading right away. It does it on my T1 too. When starting up from cold 'off' or 'sleep' the user settings are not always active. To check, play some content, then hit the settings button on the remote with content still playing. Scroll through setttings and open image > custom > user etc. and at some point opening to the next menu item the screen brightness will adjust. That change means that your user settings have been activated.


----------



## Deanodxb

Alipapa said:


> Got the screen and the T1 properly mounted for about 1 week, and found the color setting is so extreme that even 1 to 2 digit of brightness setting can change the outcome by a margin.
> 
> Also it is very hard to find the desired adjustment on the RGB for a new comer like me. I was able to cal my old OLED (Panasonic EZ1000) effortlessly and this time I am still struggling to find the correct direction.
> 
> with three hundreds some pages of discussion, it is going to take me quite some time to digest all your valuable input


Sorry to hear you are having a hard time. I will copy my settings over and post tonight.

You can get the original T1 to look beautiful - Original T1 (no external processing)

EDIT:

My ‘set and forget’ T1 settings
Brightness mode - View mode

motion compensation off

Image parameters > custom
Brightness 51
Contrast 57
Saturation 42
Sharpness 45
Tone 53

Color custom
Red 978
Green 1015
Blue 952

dynamic contrast on or off - user preference

Apple TV
Dolby Vision - off (I.e. off for all non enabled content - keeps menu icons looking normal)
Format - 4K SDR (also keeps menu items looking normal
HDMI - YCbCr
Chroma - 4:4:4
Match Content - Range & Frame Rate both on (so Dolby Vision or HDR only triggers when suitable encoded content is played)

test with Dolby vision Netflix if you can and let us know how you get on 👍🏼


----------



## 3sprit

spocky12 said:


> You might be glad to learn


Is there any news regarding the Theater? Thank you


----------



## spocky12

3sprit said:


> Is there any news regarding the Theater? Thank you


I don't know : the international models don't rely on the same firmware distribution servers and it's not possible to guess the upcoming firmware url.


----------



## Dave Harper

Brajesh said:


> @Dave Harper, what about for something like AWOL that doesn't have DV (yet)? Thanks.


I think it’ll work great. I’d love to hear feedback on how it works with this latest revision which for me anyway is the best yet!

See here:








Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...


@okvcos , can you please try a setting of 10000 and see if it matches the 'bug' image? basically we should ignore the HDFury interface and focus on the hex values to figure out what is going on here. Since we know that the HDFury is somehow making a bad string due to some bug, I suppose it is...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## Willie

spocky12 said:


> What are you looking for exactly ?


Looking for ip remote control.


----------



## Demetrius1138

My projector is very blurry at the top and I've done everything, the setting is already at the limit, I've repositioned the projector and it still remains out of focus. I saw a post (and sorry, I made a mess here and I can't delete what I did so I leave the question here for everyone) that the projector was opened and the lens ring was pushed. Was this the only method they found to improve this problem? Did you even make a video explaining how to encourage me to do such an action? Thanks in advance for the tips I saw here, very valuable.


----------



## Demetrius1138

tnaik4 said:


> [/CITAR]


Still reading through all the responses and I'm seeing a lot of important and interesting content. I've had the projector for a few days and just this problem with the focus that's too bad to watch


----------



## Demetrius1138

And I can't explain my problem to the seller, they think I'm not configuring it correctly. I made videos but the footage does not show the focus problem as I see here.


----------



## donw

Demetrius1138 said:


> And I can't explain my problem to the seller, they think I'm not configuring it correctly. I made videos but the footage does not show the focus problem as I see here.
> 
> View attachment 3372846
> 
> View attachment 3372847
> 
> View attachment 3372848


My 1st one was even worse. Apparently, something got dislodged inside during shipping. After jumping through all kinds of hoops, trying this and that the seller recommended, they finally had me ship back the unit. They tested it as bad and sent me a new one. They reimbursed me the $40 for shipping to their US contact.


----------



## Demetrius1138

donw said:


> Mine 1st one was even worse. Apparently, something got dislodged inside during shipping. After jumping through all kinds of hoops, trying this and that the seller recommended, they finally had me ship back the unit. They tested it as bad and sent me a new one. They reimbursed me the $40 for shipping to their US contact.


That's pretty exciting. I will try to contact them. Otherwise I'll try what our friend tnaik4 did.


----------



## Peter Leafshear

NothingButLabel had a good rebate on the Formovie T1 for the Black week so I finally made my decision and bought one. It was delivered today  I connected the T1 to an Apple TV 4K 2022 through HDMI #3/eARC. Latest tvOS 16.2. The Apple TV main speaker is a HomePod pair. The projection is currently done on a flat white wall, I have no dedicated ALR screen yet.

Four noob questions:

*1.* Is it possible to make the audio of a movie playing on the Apple TV (say, in Netflix) out of both the HomePods AND the B&W speaker of the Formovie? For the moment I can only play the sound through the T1 speakers, or through the HomePods, but not both together. I thought that eARC was made for this? The Apple TV has even a setting to "Play Television Audio" alongside its main default speaker (the HomePod pair): Use HDMI ARC or eARC with your Apple TV 4K (2nd generation)
Alas, it does nothing with the T1.
As the "Television Audio" channel follows a wired path (HDMI) while the HomePod pair audio follows a wireless path (AirPlay2 through Wi-Fi) one usually experiences some audio delay with echo in such a setup. Fortunately, the Apple TV can sync two different audio channels using an iPhone as a portable wireless ambient microphone (for those who are familiar with Sonos TruePlay, it is a bit the same process with beeps and gurgles emitted in the room): Apple TV Wireless Audio Sync. Unfortunately, I cannot use this feature for the reason explained in the previous paragraph.

*2. *When I put the Apple TV on standby, the HDMI CEC connection automatically switches off the T1 as well, which is nice... but not really, because in fact only the projector screen is turned off! The fan inside the T1 continues to spin noisily indefinitely. But if I choose to turn off the projector completely using the T1 remote instead, it works... but this time it's the Apple TV that stays on! How do you guys do to turn both off without having to pull out the plug?
— EDIT: solved (partially) for this one. I must use the T1 remote to switch it off. The Apple TV will then automatically go to sleep when not in use for a specified amount of time in its settings, like 30 minutes of 1 hour for example. Still frustrating to have to use the T1 remote ONLY for this, and to let the Apple TV consume power for nothing for so long. HDMI CEC should work as intended, turning off all the connected devices together at the same time whatever the remote used, like for any CEC-compatible TV on the market, but it does not with the T1. Is Fengmi aware of this?

*3. *More annoying, I think I may have the same issue as @donw or @Demetrius1138. Maybe not as pronounced. But the top of the screen remains blurry, whatever the setting, particularly the top left corner. I am at the maximum of the settings (arrow set with the remote to the maximum left). I manipulated the T1 and discovered that I can get a sharp image everywhere only tilting the T1 completely backwards by an extreme angle, producing an absurdly trapezoidal image. Any advice if this is normal, or if I got a faulty unit too?

*4. *May I ask a last question: I have a chromatic aberration for every pixel displayed, particularly visible on sharp and contrasted shapes like black text on a clear background. Each shape has some colored duplicated "ghost" with a purple fringing on its left and top side, and a green one on its right or bottom (click on the last picture and zoom on the black lines to see it). Is it a normal behavior for such a UST projector?


----------



## tnaik4

The focus issue is because the focus ring isnt turning all the way to the right, i dont know why formovie dont fix it since its super easy to do so once one disassemble it, all i did once i removed the cover is turn the focus ring manually all the way to the right and it fixed it.


----------



## Peter Leafshear

Will try that, thank you very much for that insight @tnaik4
Before opening a newly under warranty machine, I want to be sure there is no other hardware issue regarding the purple-green double fringe in my images (question #4 in my previous post). If it is a normal behavior? If so, I will proceed opening the case and tuning manually the focus ring.


----------



## tnaik4

Peter Leafshear said:


> Will try that, thank you very much for that insight @tnaik4
> Before opening a newly under warranty machine, I want to be sure there is no other hardware issue regarding the purple-green double fringe in my images (question #4 in my previous post). If it is a normal behavior? If so, I will proceed opening the case and tuning manually the focus ring.


is it visible from a seasting distance or just up close to the screen ?


----------



## Peter Leafshear

tnaik4 said:


> is it visible from a seasting distance or just up close to the screen ?


The color of the fringes is not in itself visible from the sofa, but the effect is annoying enough to the point of making reading text on screen uncomfortable. However I don't know yet if this is a direct consequence of these color fringes, or of the defocusing gradually increasing from the bottom-up.


----------



## luc.beaur

Hey guys! I am not sure if the T1 have the ability to put any of the preset profiles into game mode, like the international version. Could anyone confirm?


----------



## rooterha

luc.beaur said:


> Hey guys! I am not sure if the T1 have the ability to put any of the preset profiles into game mode, like the international version. Could anyone confirm?


Unless they've updated it recently, you have to use Game mode.


----------



## rjyap

luc.beaur said:


> Hey guys! I am not sure if the T1 have the ability to put any of the preset profiles into game mode, like the international version. Could anyone confirm?


Nope. But you can use projectivity apk to adjust the color temperature.


----------



## luc.beaur

Thanks! Only color temp presets? Or you can also modify gain (blue red green)?


----------



## rjyap

luc.beaur said:


> Thanks! Only color temp presets? Or you can also modify gain (blue red green)?


You can adjust gain and offset for RGB.


----------



## luc.beaur

ok thanks @rjyap ! So actually concerning colors it’s exactly like a custom mode, no? But you can’t modify brightness and contrast?


----------



## rjyap

luc.beaur said:


> ok thanks @rjyap ! So actually concerning colors it’s exactly like a custom mode, no? But you can’t modify brightness and contrast?


if u game in SDR then it’s not an issue as the brightness and contrast setting is accurate without crushing black and peak White.


----------



## luc.beaur

Ok, it makes sense. Thanks!


----------



## Demetrius1138

I noticed something different about the projector when I start it up for the first time that day. I use the shield tv and when I turn on I put it on the hdmi 3 ARC to start directly on that hdmi. However, the colors are warmer (yellowish and low brightness) and when I go to see the video shield settings, it is not in 4k, but in 1080p. Then I go to play settings, take it from 2.1, set it to auto and then return to 2.1. Then it goes back to dolby vision, HDR10, everything is normal. Does anyone know if I did some configuration that is causing this or is it a projector hdmi problem?


----------



## donw

Demetrius1138 said:


> I noticed something different about the projector when I start it up for the first time that day. I use the shield tv and when I turn on I put it on the hdmi 3 ARC to start directly on that hdmi. However, the colors are warmer (yellowish and low brightness) and when I go to see the video shield settings, it is not in 4k, but in 1080p. Then I go to play settings, take it from 2.1, set it to auto and then return to 2.1. Then it goes back to dolby vision, HDR10, everything is normal. Does anyone know if I did some configuration that is causing this or is it a projector hdmi problem?


That is the HDMI handshake issue, a known bug that we all hope they will be fixing with the next rev.


----------



## Demetrius1138

This is quite encouraging as it is a software bug. You can live with it until they solve it. Thanks for the answer my friend 😌🙏


----------



## Peter Leafshear

Demetrius1138 said:


> This is quite encouraging as it is a software bug. You can live with it until they solve it. Thanks for the answer my friend 😌🙏


What is encouraging is that it is a know bug, yes.
What is discouraging is that it is a known bug since the beginning and successive firmware updates had not addressed the issue yet.


----------



## Bik14

Hi, 
I received my T1 a couple of days ago and enjoying it already immensely projecting on a white wall for now  

Could you please point me to a best calibrated setting for a T1 working on it's own. 
I am a complete newbe so please excuse me this simple questions:
1) where do I check a software/firmware version installed 
2) where do I go to download Projectivity? 
3) Is Projectivity beneficial for T1 displaying cable tv and bluray content? 

Thank you for your help 👍
2


----------



## zoomx2

@spocky12, is any way to make the default Picture Mode stay in User? Every time I watch different DV content it turns to DV Bright automatically. Also, Sharpness seems soft any way to increase the setting over 20? I rather to use your Projectivy than pay for an HDfury.


----------



## rjyap

Latest version for projectivity is 4.03









Release 4.03 · spocky/miproja1


added support for most Tvs HDMI inputs (using their stock app) added ability to show mediatek hidden settings in the calibration screen added ability to hide the startup reminder when the accessibi...




github.com


----------



## zoomx2

I'm using the 4.03 but it has nothing to what I asked for. It is annoying it keeps changing back to DV Bright after different contents.


----------



## tnaik4

After multiple months with the projector i really wish i couldve gotten the global version, this projector produce an excellent picture quality specially when paired with MadVR, but the lack of customization is really annoying, Projectivy tool helps a lot though.


----------



## dlillge

swehr said:


> I figure that’s the issue, but I am trying to confirm that anyone has a working USB 12V trigger. I did contact Vividstorm directly and they couldn’t tell me if it the new trigger worked with the T1 or theater. They said they would test and let me know, but haven’t responded yet. They also suggested the wired trigger. I would prefer the wireless USB trigger.





swehr said:


> I figure that’s the issue, but I am trying to confirm that anyone has a working USB 12V trigger. I did contact Vividstorm directly and they couldn’t tell me if it the new trigger worked with the T1 or theater. They said they would test and let me know, but haven’t responded yet. They also suggested the wired trigger. I would prefer the wireless USB trigger.


Any update on the usb trigger is working?


----------



## m0j0

Bik14 said:


> Hi,
> I received my T1 a couple of days ago and enjoying it already immensely projecting on a white wall for now
> 
> Could you please point me to a best calibrated setting for a T1 working on it's own.
> I am a complete newbe so please excuse me this simple questions:
> 1) where do I check a software/firmware version installed
> 2) where do I go to download Projectivity?
> 3) Is Projectivity beneficial for T1 displaying cable tv and bluray content?
> 
> Thank you for your help 👍
> 2


You can try my old settings (unless others have posted better settings since).









Formovie Fengmi T1


I mean, these defects occur a lot then ! Yeah, if it is truly a defect on many of our units. I still feel it's a minor enough problem that it would not be worth shipping to China for service for me.




www.avsforum.com





A few pics I took with these settings when I still had the T1:









Formovie Fengmi T1


Some pics from last night




www.avsforum.com













Formovie Fengmi T1


Some pics from last night




www.avsforum.com


----------



## zoomx2

As all know the default DV bright and DV dark are too dim which is not watchable. I just find out in Projectivy >Mediatek setting> Non-Linear option: you can change the scale of Brightness, Contrast, Saturation etc. So all the default modes change as well. Now in DV, I could finally use the DV dark or Bright to watch any DV content. 😭


----------



## ted_b

Really? Are the menus in Chinese or easily navigatable? Being a vidiot, what does this do to the settings in, say, Z9X or ATV4k where we basically had them send SDR with VS10?


----------



## zoomx2

It has nothing to do with your streaming devices. It changes the internal setting for each profile including DV bright/ dark. You can use Custom for SDR, as you know it locks the DV.


----------



## ted_b

I don’t understand. The streaming devices’ video rendering settings are completely tied to what the T1 can currently do or not do. If the T1 can be adjusted to accept DV properly why wouldn’t we change streamer settings?


----------



## Makabaka_

rooterha said:


> My Vividstorm arrived non-functional. Doesn't rise when pressing up, only makes a single clicking sound. Hoping they take care of me...


You can contact their customer service. Maybe they get back to you with a better solution.


----------



## antjes

zoomx2 said:


> As all know the default DV bright and DV dark are too dim which is not watchable. I just find out in Projectivy >Mediatek setting> Non-Linear option: you can change the scale of Brightness, Contrast, Saturation etc. So all the default modes change as well. Now in DV, I could finally use the DV dark or Bright to watch any DV content. 😭


Excellent discovery! 
I didnt have courage enough to touch that settings, now I have a fun for my free time…


----------



## antjes

zoomx2 said:


> It has nothing to do with your streaming devices. It changes the internal setting for each profile including DV bright/ dark. You can use Custom for SDR, as you know it locks the DV.
> View attachment 3381942


These are your new settings or default?


----------



## okvcos

zoomx2 said:


> It has nothing to do with your streaming devices. It changes the internal setting for each profile including DV bright/ dark. You can use Custom for SDR, as you know it locks the DV.


Thanks so much for the advice!!! Please can you tell , how to set the HDMI input to Projectivy ,so that the change is active ? Thank you


----------



## zoomx2

antjes said:


> These are your new settings or default?


It is the default value, I picture it just telling where to change the numbers. 


okvcos said:


> Thanks so much for the advice!!! Please can you tell , how to set the HDMI input to Projectivy ,so that the change is active ? Thank you


In Projectivy, select your HDMI input for your streaming device. In the Non-Linear Option, I suggest playing with Contrast First. increase the number of OSD 25, 50, 75. ( write down original numbers) It remaps the curve of the default valve. Exit the Projectivy, select normal HDMI input, and play any DV contents to see the difference in DVbright/ dark. Repeat the steps till you are happy with the setting.


----------



## jdtss

Hello.
I just bought my first projector ever, the Formovie T1.I'm loving with, still with factory settings.
Is it normal without calibration the image in the corners are not "straight"? With the keystone correction I can get the image right, but without it seems that the lens are not correct, The top corners seems to close, and not making a perfect 90 degree angle. ( In the pictures attached, its the top projection on the wall)

Many thanks


----------



## zoomx2

Use the wheel on both sides to tilt the unit and move the unit closer to the wall. It is nothing wrong from what I see.


----------



## okvcos

zoomx2 said:


> It is the default value, I picture it just telling where to change the numbers.
> 
> In Projectivy, select your HDMI input for your streaming device. In the Non-Linear Option, I suggest playing with Contrast First. increase the number of OSD 25, 50, 75. ( write down original numbers) It remaps the curve of the default valve. Exit the Projectivy, select normal HDMI input, and play any DV contents to see the difference in DVbright/ dark. Repeat the steps till you are happy with the setting.


UHMM .... no .. I ask again the question (it's a translation problem)
What must be selected among the HDMI input choices for the Projectivy values to be proirary (used), instead of the projector values?


----------



## zoomx2

Try change the Contrast OSD 25: 140


----------



## okvcos

zoomx2 said:


> Try change the Contrast OSD 25: 140 ........ this was clear


What must be selected among the HDMI input choices for the Projectivy ?
Otherwise the entered values have no effect

Is there a manual for how to use Projectivy ?


----------



## zoomx2

okvcos said:


> What must be selected among the HDMI input choices for the Projectivy ?
> Otherwise the entered values have no effect
> 
> Is there a manual for how to use Projectivy ?


Which HDMI input you use for your streaming device?


----------



## ACE844

zoomx2 said:


> Which HDMI input you use for your streaming device?


I use 1 as 1 and 3 are reversed in the firmware for unknown reasons by formovie


----------



## zoomx2

ACE844 said:


> I use 1 as 1 and 3 are reversed in the firmware for unknown reasons by formovie


Not mine. HDMI 3 is an eARC port.


----------



## ACE844

zoomx2 said:


> Not mine. HDMI 3 is an eARC port.


It is labeled that way on the unit box. It is software reversed in the firmware as I stated. It's been mentioned here in the thread before by Spocky, and other," IIRC


----------



## okvcos

zoomx2 said:


> Which HDMI input you use for your streaming device?


HDMI 1


----------



## zoomx2

ACE844 said:


> It is labeled that way on the unit box. It is software reversed in the firmware as I stated. It's been mentioned here in the thread before by Spocky, and other," IIRC


Mine is not, I guess it doesn't matter. Select your HDMI port for the device in Projectivy. Play any DV c. Then change the numbers in Non-Linear Option. You should be able to see the difference immediately.


----------



## gwynned

zoomx2 said:


> Mine is not, I guess it doesn't matter. Select your HDMI port for the device in Projectivy. Play any DV c. Then change the numbers in Non-Linear Option. You should be able to see the difference immediately.


I've tried playing around with these settings, but I'm getting some pretty weird results. Thus, the results are different depending on the order in which the settings are changed (modifying OSD_75 before OSD_25 does not give the same result as mounting OSD_25 before OSD_75 for example). 
And since it changes all the settings (SDR / HDR and DV), I struggle to find something acceptable everywhere (even when playing with the Dolbi / User mode of Projectivy)

@zoomx2 Could you tell us more precisely what you changed?


----------



## chrisdu46

Hello @All,

I have to change the DMD chip from texas instruments because I am the victim of a dead micro-mirror..

Does anyone know the exact reference of the DMD chip that equips the Fengmi Formovie T1?

thanks


----------



## zoomx2

gwynned said:


> I've tried playing around with these settings, but I'm getting some pretty weird results. Thus, the results are different depending on the order in which the settings are changed (modifying OSD_75 before OSD_25 does not give the same result as mounting OSD_25 before OSD_75 for example).
> And since it changes all the settings (SDR / HDR and DV), I struggle to find something acceptable everywhere (even when playing with the Dolbi / User mode of Projectivy)
> 
> @zoomx2 Could you tell us more precisely what you changed?


Try Contrast OSD 25: 140 OSD 50: 160 OSD 75: 180 Exit Projectivy, play DV contents you should able to see contrast increase a lot in default DV modes. Play around with the numbers till you satisfy. The main purpose is for the DV. The SDR/HDR you could adjust in Custom mode.


----------



## zoomx2

See below my setting and pictures in DV Bright. Still playing with numbers.


----------



## zoomx2

Anyone can picture the Backlight numbers? I believe I messed up the original numbers. I want to know if the Blacklight makes any difference. 
Also,Mediatek> Other> Dolby> Banner Off, RF make the surround sound louder. I forget that somewhere also allows you to change the speaker angle. I watched Top Gun without using my AVR. I was quite surprised by the surround sound.


----------



## ACE844

zoomx2 said:


> Anyone can picture the Backlight numbers? I believe I messed up the original numbers. I want to know if the Blacklight makes any difference.
> Also,Mediatek> Other> Dolby> Banner Off, RF make the surround sound louder. I forget that somewhere also allows you to change the speaker angle. I watched Top Gun without using my AVR. I was quite surprised by the surround sound.


under ADVANCED EFFECTS-->DAP you can change the various sound parameters as well


----------



## ACE844

@zoomx2 what are your hue numbers?


----------



## zoomx2

ACE844 said:


> @zoomx2 what are your hue numbers?


Hue is no change 25, 50,75
Can you confirm? I reduce the Contrast after hours of tweaking. I suggest reset the unit first if anyone interest to do it. I experienced DV Dark doesn't apply correctly must be a bug in the software. I watched hours of DV content on Netflix and Disney + I can confirm it improve so much and the picture is excellent now.
















backlight?


----------



## ACE844

I changed my BL settings so I cannot give you default values. I also changed my WB color settings to be the same for all the different modes. In the Proj Tivy settings MediaTek menu, I change contrast and backlight to reflect actual 25, 50, 75% values and found an improvement in black levels and other things. I'm still experimenting with this as before you mentioned it the other day I had not tweaked these settings at all.


----------



## zoomx2

Anyone can confirm the default numbers for Backlight? It won't change back to the default even reset the unit. I just want to confirm the numbers, so I can provide my final set for all of you if anyone is not happy with the default DV modes.
I pre-ordered an HDFury Acana2 and cancelled it since I found out about this method. Save me $300 😭


----------



## ted_b

here’s mine


----------



## ted_b

Above screen shot is default.

I'm still confused, though; if i have streamers like the ATV4K set for 4K SDR (in ATV4K video/audio settings) because DV was so poor with the T1, shouldn't I set it back to normal...IF in fact we "fix" DV with your new Projectivy discoveries? Same goes for Zidoo Z9X (set to LLDV and using VS10 engine on SDR, HDR and DV...I think).


----------



## ACE844

ted_b said:


> Above screen shot is default.
> 
> I'm still confused, though; if i have streamers like the ATV4K set for 4K SDR (in ATV4K video/audio settings) because DV was so poor with the T1, shouldn't I set it back to normal...IF in fact we "fix" DV with your new Projectivy discoveries? Same goes for Zidoo Z9X (set to LLDV and using VS10 engine on SDR, HDR and DV...I think).


I run a shield pro for nearly everything in forced 4k res 12 bit bt2020 w HDR and DV enabled. So far in my experimenting with different settings I have improved the perceived black levels in DV and other content. Changing these settings effects all the content whether SDR or other.


----------



## zoomx2

ted_b said:


> Above screen shot is default.
> 
> I'm still confused, though; if i have streamers like the ATV4K set for 4K SDR (in ATV4K video/audio settings) because DV was so poor with the T1, shouldn't I set it back to normal...IF in fact we "fix" DV with your new Projectivy discoveries? Same goes for Zidoo Z9X (set to LLDV and using VS10 engine on SDR, HDR and DV...I think).


Change the ATV back to DV enable. What I'm doing is shifting the default value of the pre-set modes. The DV bright/dark are too dim by default I guess the contrast value around 42. If I flatten out the curve with a higher value it means at 42 will give me a higher contrast. Since I don't know what's the exact value of the pre-set modes. I spent days tweaking the setting and end up with the numbers I post. The same theory applies to Brightness, Saturation and Sharpness. I don't think I need to touch the Hue and Backlight.


----------



## ted_b

zoomx2 said:


> Change the ATV back to DV enable. What I'm doing is shifting the default value of the pre-set modes.


Will do (once I see the whole setup), but why, then, did you respond the first time I asked this...??


zoomx2 said:


> It has nothing to do with your streaming devices. It changes the internal setting for each profile including DV bright/ dark. You can use Custom for SDR, as you know it locks the DV.


----------



## zoomx2

ted_b said:


> Will do (once I see the whole setup), but why, then, did you respond the first time I asked this...??


Sorry I don't know if you set your ATV to SDR only.


----------



## ted_b

So @zoomx2 will you summarize a post that shows all of the changed screens from the Mediatek menus, and combine that with a short how-to (the comments that changing values out of order creates different results is a bit concerning)? And then what, did you then change the normal on-screen menu settings, too (office, view, custom, etc)?

Thanks so much for all of this.


----------



## zoomx2

ted_b said:


> So @zoomx2 will you summarize a post that shows all of the changed screens from the Mediatek menus, and combine that with a short how-to (the comments that changing values out of order creates different results is a bit concerning)? And then what, did you then change the normal on-screen menu settings, too (office, view, custom, etc)?
> 
> Thanks so much for all of this.


I already share all the settings in the previous post. If you still don't understand I can't help you.


----------



## fancyclown

ACE844 said:


> I run a shield pro for nearly everything in forced 4k res 12 bit bt2020 w HDR and DV enabled. So far in my experimenting with different settings I have improved the perceived black levels in DV and other content. Changing these settings effects all the content whether SDR or other.


@ACE844 Bro, what did you change to improve percieved black levels? Can you post the numbers? Thx


----------



## antjes

This new procedure is only valid and good option for those who want to use DV (without Hdfury), since you can modify contrast and brightness entry in DV modes. If you play HDR or using Hdfury is not worhy. Basically It is a modification of sensitivity of curves (brightness, contrast etc), in HDR after this tweaking you will have to calibrate again with fengOs setting to get same picture than before.

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## zoomx2

antjes said:


> This new procedure is only valid and good option for those who want to use DV (without Hdfury), since you can modify contrast and brightness entry in DV modes. If you play HDR or using Hdfury is not worhy. Basically It is a modification of sensitivity of curves (brightness, contrast etc), in HDR after this tweaking you will have to calibrate again with fengOs setting to get same picture than before.
> 
> Enviado Desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


HDR and SDR use the same setting anyway which you can use Custom to adjust it. Anyone can try it first before spending money on HDFury for LLDV >HDR reasons only. Because I am very happy with the end quality of the DV.
I suggest to side load Mapped Button, making a direct Input and Home. So you can quickly switch between Mediatek and FengOS.


----------



## antjes

zoomx2 said:


> HDR and SDR use the same setting anyway which you can use Custom to adjust it. Anyone can try it first before spending money on HDFury for LLDV >HDR reasons only. Because I am very happy with the end quality of the DV.
> I suggest to side load Mapped Button, making a direct Input and Home. So you can quickly switch between Mediatek and FengOS.


Yes, I understand, It is a good solution for improving DV 
on T1 and do it aceptable, but when I compare this solution with Hdfury setup (LLDV to HDR), my conclusion is absolutelly in favor of Hdfury hack ( I was testing deeply both options)
Perhaps if I Iknow this before getting Vertex 2 then I wouldnt buy It so I recommend your discovery for those who dont have hdfury.

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## ACE844

fancyclown said:


> @ACE844 Bro, what did you change to improve perceived black levels? Can you post the numbers? Thx


I will share them when I get something stable. One of the issues for me at least is the Project Tivy settings are ephemeral and don't permanently stay applied and so they have to consistently be re-added manually.

So far what I have tweaked are the brightness, contrast, and backlight settings by starting with absolute 25, 50, and 75% values from the min and max levels listed in each settings screen. However changing these settings also affects the display output in every picture mode so you will then have to go back to color space, macro brightness, contrast, saturation, etc... and readjust those values as well to fit the curve changes to your display.

for example









The above values have changed and you should know each tweak sets off a cascade of other changes made in other settings because the curves are not static in their effects. I'm sure if someone more knowledgeable than I took a whack at this they could explain and or move faster with some great settings for the fellow owners here. At the moment I'm abit like a BAPE with fingerpaints.


----------



## zoomx2

I recommend resetting the unit first before doing the hack just make sure it applies correctly.


----------



## ACE844

zoomx2 said:


> Mine is not, I guess it doesn't matter. Select your HDMI port for the device in Projectivy. Play any DV c. Then change the numbers in Non-Linear Option. You should be able to see the difference immediately.



I knew I remembered seeing this somewhere, this is from XDA in the tools master posting there about the global app/project.


@spocky12 https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/app-android-tv-projectivy-launcher.4436549/ said:


> *Known issues
> - HDMI 1 and HDMI 3 swapped (FengOS, Vava on AmLogic devices) : on recent firmwares, HDMI1 and HDMI3 inputs are swapped in PL. This is a bug in the OS low level libs that send HDMI1 input id when HDMI3 is requested (and the opposite). Can't be easily detected (thus fixed) on my side unfortunately. Just select HDMI1 when you need HDMI3 and vice-versa.*
> 
> - long press on volume buttons doesn't work on FengOs : there's a bug on FengOs -> as soon as an accessibility service is enabled (Projectivy Launcher, but also Button Mapper for example), the long press volume buttons doesn't work anymore. Worse : unlike any other button, the accessibility service is not notified that a volume button has been pressed, preventing me from developping a workaround :/ Disabling the accessibility service fixes this behavior (but this disables several Projectivy Launcher features)


YMMV


----------



## ACE844

Has anyone tried Echo 3 S01 E09 on apple +. It should be a great torture test for these tweaks. 

The whole episode is at night in DV and with a combo of varying light, NODS, IR, and pyro... my current temp settings deepened the blacks at the expense of shadow details.


----------



## ProFragger

antjes said:


> Yes, I understand, It is a good solution for improving DV
> on T1 and do it aceptable, but when I compare this solution with Hdfury setup (LLDV to HDR), my conclusion is absolutelly in favor of Hdfury hack ( I was testing deeply both options)
> Perhaps if I Iknow this before getting Vertex 2 then I wouldnt buy It so I recommend your discovery for those who dont have hdfury.
> 
> Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


Can you share your Vertex2 and T1 settings? Especially if you use a Streamer like a Shield Pro?

Thank you!


----------



## antjes

ProFragger said:


> Can you share your Vertex2 and T1 settings? Especially if you use a Streamer like a Shield Pro?
> 
> Thank you!



I´m using CCwGTV, always LLDV and Zidoo Z9x for local.

In Txt file you can see HEX EDID using on VERTEX (You can check it on EDID Decode (xs4all.nl) )

Basically the EDID adds in DV Block: Max 385 nits - min 0 nits. I found a good setup the maximun between 300-400, it is posible other numbers but this gives me standarization for all kind of entries (SDR,HDR,LLDV..)

In proyector settings: (I didnt calibrate camera)



















You can down blue to your own taste.


On vertex, I´m using a custom EDID (the one in Txt file) and click on Custom HDR when Input is LLDV. HDR custom values in yellow are not important for me since dont affect picture.










With this I have a setup valid for CCwGTV and Zidoo Z9x, always LLDV. The picture is very bright, I prefer raise up black floor but keep shadow detail, so I have good shadow details and no clipping in whites.
Next picture is a good example, is not exactly what my eyes can see (I dont see the haze) but an example for shadow detail.








Even most HDR movies converted in Zidoo with VS10 Engine are good, the few of them wich are a little bit dim are played with mediatek projectivity setting which are brighter











I´m pretty happy with the picture that I get, but mostly because settings are cosistent and dont depend on the input (SDR, HDR or DV).

Regarding to the trick modifying Non-linear options, as I said the modification affects on how asociate the values aplied to OSD settings that you can modify, you can do the same with projectivy tool using "user picture mode" and dont get blocked MEMC. I was using projectivity to get a good picture in DV before getting HdFury but there was a point in local movies that I couldnt map good enough.

Finally, all of this depend on your room, screen and your players.... as you already know
I hope this help.


----------



## dami1337

Thanks @antjes . I am currently considering either buying a EZCOO from the alternative lldv devices thread (€60) and do the EDID trick you seem to have as well.

Or buying hdfury vertex2 (€300) to try what Dave has posted here and what works for the T1 Global version: Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...

Afaik you tested this as well but it didn‘t work? Why do you think not and might it be anything else in your setup causing issue?

Maybe any other T1 (chinese version) with HDfury wants to try above 2nd trick as well.

My main issue (besides hdmi handshake) is that DV is unwatchable due to really bad red push in faces still and no firmware upgrade since quite some time. So I am running ATV 4k in forced SDR so far.


----------



## antjes

I forgot, this is the EDID you can upload directly in VERTEX









3.VERTEX2-MStar Demo-cusom3_LLDV385.bin


Shared with Dropbox




www.dropbox.com


----------



## zoomx2

dami1337 said:


> Thanks @antjes . I am currently considering either buying a EZCOO from the alternative lldv devices thread (€60) and do the EDID trick you seem to have as well.
> 
> Or buying hdfury vertex2 (€300) to try what Dave has posted here and what works for the T1 Global version: Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...
> 
> Afaik you tested this as well but it didn‘t work? Why do you think not and might it be anything else in your setup causing issue?
> 
> Maybe any other T1 (chinese version) with HDfury wants to try above 2nd trick as well.
> 
> My main issue (besides hdmi handshake) is that DV is unwatchable due to really bad red push in faces still and no firmware upgrade since quite some time. So I am running ATV 4k in forced SDR so far.


I already tried the Ezcoo Splitter, but it doesn't work for T1. it does not change LLDV>HDR so DV modes still kick in. You can try the Projectivy method first, if not happy with the result then buy the HDFury.


----------



## antjes

dami1337 said:


> Thanks @antjes . I am currently considering either buying a EZCOO from the alternative lldv devices thread (€60) and do the EDID trick you seem to have as well.
> 
> Or buying hdfury vertex2 (€300) to try what Dave has posted here and what works for the T1 Global version: Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...
> 
> Afaik you tested this as well but it didn‘t work? Why do you think not and might it be anything else in your setup causing issue?
> 
> Maybe any other T1 (chinese version) with HDfury wants to try above 2nd trick as well.
> 
> My main issue (besides hdmi handshake) is that DV is unwatchable due to really bad red push in faces still and no firmware upgrade since quite some time. So I am running ATV 4k in forced SDR so far.


I already tried Ezcoo at the beginning when I bought T1.
It is not the the solution for T1 if you wanna play DV.
You have two options:
1. Projectivity, so you can modify settings in user Mode.
2. Hdfury with LLDV-HDR hack

First option is very good but I couldnt get perfect tone map with Zidoo Z9x for local movies.
Second option gives me the best outcome in my case. By the way the red tones disappear with Hdfury and selecting BT2020 in custom HDR, If REC 709 is selected then red tones appear, this makes me think that T1 software for DV is doing something wrong.

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Tanizhq

ACE844 said:


> I knew I remembered seeing this somewhere, this is from XDA in the tools master posting there about the global app/project.
> 
> YMMV


wait does ths mean HDMI 1 will probably work with eARC? I have been having issues with the HDMI 3 eARC Passthrough, keeps giving me random clipping every few seconds.

When I use my Arcana it goes away, but its not the easiest with switching inputs and stuff.


----------



## ACE844

Tanizhq said:


> wait does ths mean HDMI 1 will probably work with eARC? I have been having issues with the HDMI 3 eARC Passthrough, keeps giving me random clipping every few seconds.
> 
> When I use my Arcana it goes away, but its not the easiest with switching inputs and stuff.


At the moment I'm not using eARC with the T1 so I cannot comment. I did however have a 2160/30 res limitation when I plugged my hdmi2.1 cable into HDMI 3 that was spontaneously resolved when I swapped to HDMI 1. It's worth trying the swap IMHO.


----------



## ACE844

Does anyone know if there is a way to factory reset this PJ while not using the UI? I asked @Formovie Official /Fengmi support but they are extremely slow at responding to emails...


----------



## zoomx2

Any difference between using Andriod's setting reset vs Fengmi's OS system reset? I guess you mean hard reset.


----------



## ACE844

zoomx2 said:


> Any difference between using Andriod's setting reset vs Fengmi's OS system reset? I guess you mean hard reset.


I mean hard reset not using the UI but say some button combo on the box or a push to reset or USB? . MY UI blacked out and I can't see any options in the UI menu screen


----------



## spocky12

ACE844 said:


> I mean hard reset not using the UI but say some button combo on the box or a push to reset or USB? . MY UI blacked out and I can't see any options in the UI menu screen


I never tried this on the T1, but if your boot screen is still visible, you can try to reset from the recovery menu.
To go into recovery, turn off your projector, unplug it, hold down OK and BACK buttons simultaneously on your remote control and plug back your projector while still holding them down. At least this works on my 3 previous Xiaomi/Fengmi projectors.


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## MarviGito

chrisdu46 said:


> Hello @All,
> 
> I have to change the DMD chip from texas instruments because I am the victim of a dead micro-mirror..
> 
> Does anyone know the exact reference of the DMD chip that equips the Fengmi Formovie T1?
> 
> thanks


ive been trying to figure that out myself too, I think it might be DLP471TE or DLP650TE.


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## antjes

MarviGito said:


> ive been trying to figure that out myself too, I think it might be DLP471TE or DLP650TE.


For sure it is a 0,47’ chip so you can discard DLP650TE.
there are four 0,47 inch XLR DMD chips: DLP470TE, DLP470TP, DLP471TE, DLP471TP.

TPs are designed for max 1500 lumens and TEs for max 4000 lumens.
My bet is for DLP471TE, applying logic there was a first chip which had a thin dark grey frame, I asume is DLP470 family and then DLP471 was born to correct.
What I would do is (not using warranty) ask Fengmi to specify which one, but before buying I would open projector and take the chip to read exactly the model.


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## antjes

dami1337 said:


> Or buying hdfury vertex2 (€300) to try what Dave has posted here and what works for the T1 Global version: Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...
> 
> Afaik you tested this as well but it didn‘t work? Why do you think not and might it be anything else in your setup causing issue?


This Dave´s method does not work in T1 ( + Vertex 2 which is my setup), it is the same than select a maximun 100 nits in DV block. For T1 + Vertex you need at least 200 nits for not clipping whites. If you use 300 nits aprox. you can use Vertex correctly, but forget about this method of blanking max/min DV block.

About price, maybe you can buy a used Vertex 2, or a Vertex 1 (+ Goblue) cheaper, both can give you the trick LLDV-HDR.
I have both and selling Vertex 1 (In Spain....) If you decide Vertex 1 you need Goblue because SDR will be converted automatically to HDR and it is necesary disable manually.


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## antjes

dami1337 said:


> My main issue (besides hdmi handshake) is that DV is unwatchable due to really bad red push in faces still and no firmware upgrade since quite some time. So I am running ATV 4k in forced SDR so far.


About reds, my opinion, problem comes with T1 EDID.
This is what you can read in T1s EDID










When you add a custom DV and select BT2020 then RGB is changed to this a Red tones dissapear....


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## chrisdu46

antjes said:


> DLP471TP.





antjes said:


> For sure it is a 0,47’ chip so you can discard DLP650TE.
> there are four 0,47 inch XLR DMD chips: DLP470TE, DLP470TP, DLP471TE, DLP471TP.
> 
> TPs are designed for max 1500 lumens and TEs for max 4000 lumens.
> My bet is for DLP471TE, applying logic there was a first chip which had a thin dark grey frame, I asume is DLP470 family and then DLP471 was born to correct.
> What I would do is (not using warranty) ask Fengmi to specify which one, but before buying I would open projector and take the chip to read exactly the model.


I finally bought the DLP470TE chip on the official Texas Instruments website for 310,25 USD including tax because the DLP471TE chip is not in stock.

I hope this will be convenient.. Now we will have to disassemble the Fengmi T1 to replace the chip and that seems to me to be complicated without any experience in electronics. Fingers crossed !


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## antjes

Patience and good luck

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


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## ACE844

spocky12 said:


> I never tried this on the T1, but if your boot screen is still visible, you can try to reset from the recovery menu.
> To go into recovery, turn off your projector, unplug it, hold down OK and BACK buttons simultaneously on your remote control and plug back your projector while still holding them down. At least this works on my 3 previous Xiaomi/Fengmi projectors.


Thank you for sharing this. I do get the startup splash screen. However when I tried this I could only see a black screen. 

I think the recovery menu may have appeared but I couldn't see it because of the ui being blacked out....

I guess since other than not being able to see settings/ui menus. I am going to have to navigate the menus blind. I think the brightness curve was tweaked too low or backlight settings. The menus and settings appear...they are just nearly pitch black. 

Since these usts aren't back-lit ut makes seeing the values and info....a 'challenge'


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## ACE844

Has anyone used Dave Harpers new trick with a Vroom successfully with T1?


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## rhcoomb8

Pismo Mac said:


> Gaming: Played Forza Horizon 5 on Xbox X with no issue. Not sure about other games. AFAIK, there are currently no UST projectors that can do 4K/120hz with lower than 16ms input lag. Black levels: Gorgeous for a UST, probably the best out there. Competing brands may disagree. Customer support: From where I am at, I have local support. I don’t think there’s local support in the US. There’s a lot of support here in AVS. It is a triple laser and has Dolby Vision support out of the box. I don‘t think the Hisense L9G supports Dolby Vision as of now. If you’re not fussy about colour management or calibration, T1 is plug and play. Hope this helps.


 I am completely new to this, and I'm honestly struggling with game mode's toggle being greyed out. I was able to turn on ALLM. I can't find anything online or in forums, any thoughts? I was wondering if the 2080Ti I have in my pc is just outdated not having hdmi2.1


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## Dave Harper

antjes said:


> *This Dave´s method does not work in T1 *( + Vertex 2 which is my setup), it is the same than select a maximun 100 nits in DV block. For T1 + Vertex you need at least 200 nits for not clipping whites. If you use 300 nits aprox. you can use Vertex correctly, but forget about this method of blanking max/min DV block.
> 
> About price, maybe you can buy a used Vertex 2, or a Vertex 1 (+ Goblue) cheaper, both can give you the trick LLDV-HDR.
> I have both and selling Vertex 1 (In Spain....) If you decide Vertex 1 you need Goblue because SDR will be converted automatically to HDR and it is necesary disable manually.





ACE844 said:


> Has anyone used Dave Harpers new trick with a Vroom successfully with T1?


I just did it again last night on the ForMovie, so I’m not sure what @antjes ‘s issues are. It does work and it works incredibly well.


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## antjes

Dave Harper said:


> I just did it again last night on the ForMovie, so I’m not sure what @antjes ‘s issues are. It does work and it works incredibly well.


I don't have any problem, you are using Formovie Theater and I'm using chinese T1. I invite everybody to test in T1 (not Theater) and paste here a picture of Aquaman.
This is what a get (something similar) with T1, Zidoo Z9x, Vertex 2 and your last trick, coincidence but the same I get when select manually max 100 nits, no matter contrast.


I don't understand why you dont believe me, why you want me to look like stupid.
Different device different outcome









Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


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## MarviGito

chrisdu46 said:


> I finally bought the DLP470TE chip on the official Texas Instruments website for 310,25 USD including tax because the DLP471TE chip is not in stock.
> 
> I hope this will be convenient.. Now we will have to disassemble the Fengmi T1 to replace the chip and that seems to me to be complicated without any experience in electronics. Fingers crossed !


Did you confirm with Texas Instruments or @Formovie Official that the DLP470TE is actually compatible with the T1, I only ask because one of the many differences between 471TE and 470TE is that the 471TE supports RGB laser (triple laser) while the 470TE doesn't.


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## Dave Harper

antjes said:


> I don't have any problem, you are using Formovie Theater and I'm using chinese T1. I invite everybody to test in T1 (not Theater) and paste here a picture of Aquaman.
> This is what a get (something similar) with T1, Zidoo Z9x, Vertex 2 and your last trick, coincidence but the same I get when select manually max 100 nits, no matter contrast.
> 
> 
> I don't understand why you dont believe me, why you want me to look like stupid.
> Different device different outcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


I didn’t say I don’t believe you I simply stated my experience. Plus if you are saying 100 blows out whites then if you put 200 maximum nits in the DV block then it will be even more blown out because you’re telling it you have a brighter display when you actually don’t. 

Have you tested it with other videos?


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## antjes

Dave Harper said:


> Have you tested it with other videos?


Yes, of course ....
Have you heard about a T1 user doing your last trick succesfully?

I'm not doing anything wrong, just your hack is not working in T1 +Vertex. Not so difficult to understand.


Maybe it's not white clipping but highlight details missing....

Next time you check It on Formovie, download your EDID (Bin or full HEX) with Hdfury web app and share It here, until that please do not say your hack is universal because it's not.

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


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## fancyclown

I would also appreciate if someone uploads their Vertex 2 EDID for the T1. I’ve tried Dave’s settings and they work pretty good but there’s some blown out whites in both LLDV and SDR


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## Benno_Fox

Hello,

I have been reading this forum for years and following the Fengmi discussion (T1 and Global) for months. Sorry to disturb the current discussion. I need some support.

I have a Pioneer VSX-LX302 that serves as a source. (also supports Dolby Vision)
Current projector: Acer M550
Main usage:
70% Sony PS5
30% FireTV 4K Stick

I'm not going to use the built-in Android, so I'm leaning towards the T1 and would opt against the global version.

Would this also be the community's recommendation? Any questions on this.

1. does the beamer start in the last setting or do I have to manually change the source to the Pioneer (for example HDMI 1)?
2. does the gaming mode use 4K or 1080p?
3. does the global version have better picture quality?
4. would a Xiaomi Laser Cinema 2 or AWOL LTV-3500 be a better choice for me?

I put the question in both threads, hope that's okay.
Thanks a lot for the help! Best Benno


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## antjes

Mistake


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## antjes

fancyclown said:


> I would also appreciate if someone uploads their Vertex 2 EDID for the T1. I’ve tried Dave’s settings and they work pretty good but there’s some blown out whites in both LLDV and SDR


Few posts ago...









Formovie Fengmi T1


HDR and SDR use the same setting anyway which you can use Custom to adjust it. Anyone can try it first before spending money on HDFury for LLDV >HDR reasons only. Because I am very happy with the end quality of the DV. I suggest to side load Mapped Button, making a direct Input and Home. So you...




www.avsforum.com













Formovie Fengmi T1


HDR and SDR use the same setting anyway which you can use Custom to adjust it. Anyone can try it first before spending money on HDFury for LLDV >HDR reasons only. Because I am very happy with the end quality of the DV. I suggest to side load Mapped Button, making a direct Input and Home. So you...




www.avsforum.com







Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


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## fancyclown

antjes said:


> Few posts ago...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Formovie Fengmi T1
> 
> 
> HDR and SDR use the same setting anyway which you can use Custom to adjust it. Anyone can try it first before spending money on HDFury for LLDV >HDR reasons only. Because I am very happy with the end quality of the DV. I suggest to side load Mapped Button, making a direct Input and Home. So you...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Formovie Fengmi T1
> 
> 
> HDR and SDR use the same setting anyway which you can use Custom to adjust it. Anyone can try it first before spending money on HDFury for LLDV >HDR reasons only. Because I am very happy with the end quality of the DV. I suggest to side load Mapped Button, making a direct Input and Home. So you...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


thx, I’ve tried that but 385 nits seems to be a little high for some content. I would like to try some alternatives.


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## antjes

fancyclown said:


> thx, I’ve tried that but 385 nits seems to be a little high for some content. I would like to try some alternatives.


This is for sending to Vertex everything in LLDV. 

What content, please specify.
And what is your screen size?

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


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## fancyclown

antjes said:


> This is for sending to Vertex everything in LLDV.
> 
> What content, please specify.
> And what is your screen size?
> 
> Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


120” screen
Example content: Glass Onion on Netflix (Apple TV)


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## antjes

fancyclown said:


> 120” screen
> Example content: Glass Onion on Netflix (Apple TV)


Yes, that movie is like over exposed in some scenes, It does not matter DV data block in EDID, there is something weird there, but not related to the EDID 

Enviado desde mi M2012K11AC mediante Tapatalk


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