# Official Samsung "Premiere" LSP9T Owners Thread



## bennutt

Much credit to Mark Henniger's review that got everyone talking about the new Samsung UST projectors, but we have to scroll past the entire review each time we use that thread 
To catch everyone up, here are some of the biggest details from 26 pages of the review thread.
Mark Henninger’s Samsung The Premiere LSP9T 4K UST Projector Review

The Tech Aeris Review

The official manual from Samsung

Logitech Harmony Remote - Add device Samsung QN75Q90T for all features including direct input selection.

The key spec differences between the LSP9T and the LSP7T (very different approach to light source)









Throw distance charts












There was also a key video contribution from ProjectionHead with ambient light examples.







I will be receiving mine on Friday with a Grandview Dynamique 120" screen soon after.


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## Mikenificent1

Finally! (applause)

For those that have seen this projector, is this what the speckle looks like?

Laser speckle


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## avsenthusiast

*@Samsung, please give us 3D on LSP9T*

Please  this post so we can send a strong message that Samsung should add 3D via a firmware update to this premium model.

With a high number of votes Samsung may do something


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## bennutt

Mikenificent1 said:


> Finally! (applause)
> 
> For those that have seen this projector, is this what the speckle looks like?
> 
> Laser speckle


Much like DLP rainbow, I don’t even want to _try_ to see it. Once your brain perceives an issue it’s very difficult to let it go. Ignorance is bliss 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## 1nquisitive

Hi, folks. Below is copied from my post earlier in the comments of Mark's review.

Ok, this has been an emotional roller coaster. I received my LSP9T unit mid day yesterday, and late last night I packed it up to return to Samsung. *This is due only to the rainbow effect*. I'm on an Elite 120" CLR (not CLR2) screen. I don't "calibrate" my TV's (OLEDs) or projectors, per se, but I do spend a lot of time tweaking to my liking and getting familiar with how each setting affects the image. Firmware up to date. Quick summary of my thoughts overall:

Pros:

Absolutely stunning (to my eyes) picture. This cannot be overstated. Contrast, light output, colors, black levels, motion, focus clarity, were all jaw dropping. Focus was RAZOR sharp, and extremely uniform (I compared on several games, and an internet browser for text). I only made a minor focus adjustment out of the box, and it honestly looks as sharp as a giant television. I did not use any software driven geometry correction for aligning the picture.
Gaming was fine. I played a variety of games. Horizon Zero Dawn, Overwatch, Street Fighter 5, Devil May Cry 5, Apex Legends, Mega Man X. Gaming mode enabled automatically (at least with the PS4 Pro), and input lag was noticeble if I really concentrated, but didn't hinder gameplay. I spent the most time with Overwatch, which is a very fast game. All game content, both HDR and SDR, looked incredible.
Sound. The integrated sound bar is decently punchy, full, and clear for being what it is.
Aesthetics. I quite like the look of the projector. Wish it came in black, though.

Cons:

*Rainbow Effect. This was devastating. Yes, if you're sensitive to RBE, it will be visible on this machine. I knew I was sensitive to it, but was hoping that with the three lasers (instead of a color wheel), that it'd be acceptable. It was not. *My fiancee was blown away by the picture quality, but when she saw the rainbow effect, she just exclaimed "Oh no." This is the ONLY reason I am returning this projector.
Image controls. Not as much control as I'd like to see, as can be found on an LG OLED or Epson projector, for example. No direct light output control.
Laser speckle. I only had a rough idea of what this actually was, until I saw it. As has been noted before, it's more noticeable the closer you get to the screen. It can still be seen, if you're looking for it, at normal viewing distance, but it was totally fine for me. Wasn't a big deal, honestly.
Light leak. Some noticeable light leak outside of the viewable area, but was never a distraction.
Audio connection issues. The audio (via its integrated soundbar) fairly frequently would stop working, and often required me to switch a few times between sources before it returned.
Input lag. Even in game mode, might still be a little much for some FPS gamers, particularly on PC.

Well, hopefully this is helpful to someone. If you're not sensitive to the RBE, or don't care, I can't possibly see anyone being disappointed with this. It's truly impressive, otherwise. I'm really bummed . . .


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## avsform1

Does the unit have calibration controls? i.e. White Balance, RGBCYM, and gamma setting?


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## Mikenificent1

bennutt said:


> Much like DLP rainbow, I don’t even want to _try_ to see it. Once your brain perceives an issue it’s very difficult to let it go. Ignorance is bliss
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Same here. I’m ignorantly blissful of RBE, but not screen sparklies and if laser speckle is anything like that, I wouldn’t be able to tolerate that.


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## Mikenificent1

1nquisitive said:


> Hi, folks. Below is copied from my post earlier in the comments of Mark's review.
> 
> Ok, this has been an emotional roller coaster. I received my LSP9T unit mid day yesterday, and late last night I packed it up to return to Samsung. *This is due only to the rainbow effect*. I'm on an Elite 120" CLR (not CLR2) screen. I don't "calibrate" my TV's (OLEDs) or projectors, per se, but I do spend a lot of time tweaking to my liking and getting familiar with how each setting affects the image. Firmware up to date. Quick summary of my thoughts overall:
> 
> Pros:
> 
> Absolutely stunning (to my eyes) picture. This cannot be overstated. Contrast, light output, colors, black levels, motion, focus clarity, were all jaw dropping. Focus was RAZOR sharp, and extremely uniform (I compared on several games, and an internet browser for text). I only made a minor focus adjustment out of the box, and it honestly looks as sharp as a giant television. I did not use any software driven geometry correction for aligning the picture.
> Gaming was fine. I played a variety of games. Horizon Zero Dawn, Overwatch, Street Fighter 5, Devil May Cry 5, Apex Legends, Mega Man X. Gaming mode enabled automatically (at least with the PS4 Pro), and input lag was noticeble if I really concentrated, but didn't hinder gameplay. I spent the most time with Overwatch, which is a very fast game. All game content, both HDR and SDR, looked incredible.
> Sound. The integrated sound bar is decently punchy, full, and clear for being what it is.
> Aesthetics. I quite like the look of the projector. Wish it came in black, though.
> 
> Cons:
> 
> *Rainbow Effect. This was devastating. Yes, if you're sensitive to RBE, it will be visible on this machine. I knew I was sensitive to it, but was hoping that with the three lasers (instead of a color wheel), that it'd be acceptable. It was not. *My fiancee was blown away by the picture quality, but when she saw the rainbow effect, she just exclaimed "Oh no." This is the ONLY reason am returning this projector.
> Image controls. Not as much control as I'd like to see, as can be found on an LG OLED or Epson projector, for example. No direct light output control.
> Laser speckle. I only had a rough idea of what this actually was, until I saw it. As has been noted before, it's more noticeable the closer you get to the screen. It can still be seen, if you're looking for it, at normal viewing distance, but it was totally fine for me. Wasn't a big deal, honestly.
> Light leak. Some noticeable light leak outside of the viewable area, but was never a distraction.
> Audio connection issues. The audio (via its integrated soundbar) fairly frequently would stop working, and often required me to switch a few times between sources before it returned.
> Input lag. Even in game mode, might still be a little much for some FPS gamers, particularly on PC.
> 
> Well, hopefully this is helpful to someone. If you're not sensitive to the RBE, or don't care, I can't possibly see anyone being disappointed with this. It's truly impressive, otherwise. I'm really bummed . . .


May I ask in regards to black levels, what would you compare them to? When you say jaw dropping, are you saying JVC level black levels, or OLED? Lol Is that with a completely black scene, or a mixed but mostly dark scene for example?

thanks


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## nrichmond

Mikenificent1 said:


> Finally! (applause)
> 
> For those that have seen this projector, is this what the speckle looks like?
> 
> Laser speckle


I was only able to see the speckle from about 2 feet or closer. I don't intend to be that close, heck the projector itself is that far away.


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## nrichmond

This is the last post I made on the other thread...



> jeffp021 said:
> Currently Using Wall for projecting Image(painted with high quality projector paint 5 years ago). My better half is not too keen on a huge screen mounted to wall visible all the time in family room, and currently enjoys the painted wall setup. I NEED an ALR screen but the vivid storm with shipping is adding ANOTHER $2k to this already $6500 investment. Is it worth it?


It's hard to say for your particular setup and not knowing how good or bad the situation is but i do love the floor rising screen. I also use mostly downward projecting light (cans) and this combo seems very worth the money.

I am coming from an Epson 5040ub and a 150" Aeon screen in a significantly light controlled room. This setup absolutely destroys that last setup. I was forcing the Epson to be an LED screen replacement but I prefer the Samsung/VS over the LED TV now. Of course I am paying twice as much for this setup but I think it is more than twice as good.


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## Aztar35

1nquisitive said:


> Cons:
> 
> *Rainbow Effect. This was devastating. Yes, if you're sensitive to RBE, it will be visible on this machine. I knew I was sensitive to it, but was hoping that with the three lasers (instead of a color wheel), that it'd be acceptable. It was not. *My fiancee was blown away by the picture quality, but when she saw the rainbow effect, she just exclaimed "Oh no." This is the ONLY reason am returning this projector.


Since the projector uses a single chip the colors are not thrown at the same time. In my review, I noted that I saw RBE on some torture tests. However, since it doesn't use a color wheel, I wonder if Samsung can release firmware that can increase the cycling speed.


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## Aztar35

Mikenificent1 said:


> May I ask in regards to black levels, what would you compare them to? When you say jaw dropping, are you saying JVC level black levels, or OLED? Lol Is that with a completely black scene, or a mixed but mostly dark scene for example?
> 
> thanks


I would like to know if any consumer owner has measured the contrast. It appears dynamic contrast might always active in the background with SDR content, so I if the brightness goes below a certain level, where does dynamic black kick in.


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## 1nquisitive

Mikenificent1 said:


> May I ask in regards to black levels, what would you compare them to? When you say jaw dropping, are you saying JVC level black levels, or OLED? Lol Is that with a completely black scene, or a mixed but mostly dark scene for example?
> 
> thanks


I'm not a hardcore projector person, but it looked great to me. I've not seen the JVC in person. And nothing compares to OLED for black levels. But the black levels compared to a mid or higher tier LCD TV, which again to my (amateur) eye looked really good. I went through many different combinations of light/dark content, in both movies and games. I thought it all looked pretty excellent. The CLR screen helps with the perceived black levels, too, I think.


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## 1nquisitive

Aztar35 said:


> Since the projector uses a single chip the colors are not thrown at the same time. In my review, I noted that I saw RBE on some torture tests. However, since it doesn't use a color wheel, I wonder if Samsung can release firmware that can increase the cycling speed.


I wondered the same, about patching how the colors are sequenced on a given pixel. If a patch came out, that'd be great. But I don't want to wait past the return window only to discover a fix isn't coming/possible . . .


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## Aztar35

1nquisitive said:


> I wondered the same, about patching how the colors are sequenced on a given pixel. If a patch came out, that'd be great. But I don't want to wait past the return window only to discover a fix isn't coming/possible . . .


The funny thing is I thought "Dynamic" mode looked incredible, but that was so bright that it was more RBE prone.


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## Syed117

Posted this on the other thread, but guess I should be here.

Just ordered the 9T.

Delivery is scheduled for the 16th. Ordered from Samsung because of their current 100 day trial period. Have an elite screens 100 inch aeon to use with it. Complete light control in the basement. I didn't go with an ALR screen, but that may change when I see what the performance is like with the basement overhead lights at full and at around 50% which is what I expect to to keep them at IF I want to have lights on while using the projector. Don't plan on that happening very often.

Very excited to see what this thing can do.


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## Mikenificent1

Syed117 said:


> Posted this on the other thread, but guess I should be here.
> 
> Just ordered the 9T.
> 
> Delivery is scheduled for the 16th. Ordered from Samsung because of their current 100 day trial period. Have an elite screens 100 inch aeon to use with it. Complete light control in the basement. I didn't go with an ALR screen, but that may change when I see what the performance is like with the basement overhead lights at full and at around 50% which is what I expect to to keep them at IF I want to have lights on while using the projector. Don't plan on that happening very often.
> 
> Very excited to see what this thing can do.


thanks for letting us know about the trial. I’m on the fence and did not know about that.

If you’re in a light controlled theater with recessed lights, don’t bother with any image degrading ALR screen. Instead, control the directionality of the lights. I did a combination of things in my room. The cans closest to the screen, I changed the led bulbs to spot instead of flood and added an eyelid trim:

Nora 6" Half Moon Black Wall Wash Trim with Reflector - Lighting Accessories - Amazon.com

For the rest of the lights, I just retrofitted a black baffle to all the flood LED lights. Luckily the LED’s I have, have a black insert option.

The pic below was before I got the eyelids and just had the black baffles. Still a huge difference, and this is with a 110” Studiotek 100, which is the ultimate in picture quality, but the least forgiving with ambient light. Hard to tell, but the room is fully lit, but the screen wall is dark (intentionally). Room is still being worked on:


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## Run&Gun

Syed117 said:


> Posted this on the other thread, but guess I should be here.
> 
> Just ordered the 9T.
> 
> Delivery is scheduled for the 16th. Ordered from Samsung because of their current 100 day trial period. Have an elite screens 100 inch aeon to use with it. Complete light control in the basement. I didn't go with an ALR screen, but that may change when I see what the performance is like with the basement overhead lights at full and at around 50% which is what I expect to to keep them at IF I want to have lights on while using the projector. Don't plan on that happening very often.
> 
> Very excited to see what this thing can do.



You do not want a traditional ALR screen with a UST projector. They are designed to reject light off-axis(top, bottom, sides) from the projector and would therefore not work well with a UST projector that is projecting light from the bottom/underneath it. You want a dedicated UST screen(which it looks like you have with the ES Aeon), which will accept the light coming from underneath from the UST projector and reflect it forward to the viewer, but they also “reject” light coming from overhead.

But none of these ALR or CLR screens are magic bullets. The best thing to do is keep any extraneous light not coming from the projector from directly hitting the screen.


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## Syed117

Mikenificent1 said:


> thanks for letting us know about the trial. I’m on the fence and did not know about that.
> 
> If you’re in a light controlled theater with recessed lights, don’t bother with any image degrading ALR screen. Instead, control the directionality of the lights. I did a combination of things in my room. The cans closest to the screen, I changed the led bulbs to spot instead of flood and added an eyelid trim:
> 
> Nora 6" Half Moon Black Wall Wash Trim with Reflector - Lighting Accessories - Amazon.com
> 
> For the rest of the lights, I just retrofitted a black baffle to all the flood LED lights. Luckily the LED’s I have, have a black insert option.
> 
> The pic below was before I got the eyelids and just had the black baffles. Still a huge difference, and this is with a 110” Studiotek 100, which is the ultimate in picture quality, but the least forgiving with ambient light. Hard to tell, but the room is fully lit, but the screen wall is dark (intentionally). Room is still being worked on:
> 
> View attachment 3053374


That looks fantastic. Even with the lighting the way it is. I know it's hard to capture, but looks very good.



Run&Gun said:


> You do not want a traditional ALR screen with a UST projector. They are designed to reject light off-axis(top, bottom, sides) from the projector and would therefore not work well with a UST projector that is projecting light from the bottom/underneath it. You want a dedicated UST screen(which it looks like you have with the ES Aeon), which will accept the light coming from underneath from the UST projector and reflect it forward to the viewer, but they also “reject” light coming from overhead.
> 
> But none of these ALR or CLR screens are magic bullets. The best thing to do is keep any extraneous light not coming from the projector from directly hitting the screen.


Ah ok. Thanks for the info. This has all been somewhat confusing. Especially trying to take measurements before everything is set up.

I have recessed lighting in the basement and usually there will be no light at all while using the projector. No windows in the movie area either. Let me see if I can post a post a picture of what it currently looks like.

The screen is going on the right where the frame currently is. Sectional is obviously not done yet. There are 4 overhead lights that will usually be off or dimmed significantly.


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## bennutt

Mikenificent1 said:


> thanks for letting us know about the trial. I’m on the fence and did not know about that.
> 
> If you’re in a light controlled theater with recessed lights, don’t bother with any image degrading ALR screen. Instead, control the directionality of the lights. I did a combination of things in my room. The cans closest to the screen, I changed the led bulbs to spot instead of flood and added an eyelid trim:
> 
> Nora 6" Half Moon Black Wall Wash Trim with Reflector - Lighting Accessories - Amazon.com
> 
> For the rest of the lights, I just retrofitted a black baffle to all the flood LED lights. Luckily the LED’s I have, have a black insert option.
> 
> The pic below was before I got the eyelids and just had the black baffles. Still a huge difference, and this is with a 110” Studiotek 100, which is the ultimate in picture quality, but the least forgiving with ambient light. Hard to tell, but the room is fully lit, but the screen wall is dark (intentionally). Room is still being worked on:
> 
> View attachment 3053374


Isn't the light show on the ceiling in this image exactly what an ALR screen will avoid?
After dropping $1500 on an ALR would be good to know it's worth doing in a light controlled room?


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## Syed117

I'm sure this has been asked and maybe I'm just missing it, but there is no range adjustment on the projector itself?

Like on your average projector the throw distance is always a range. I see the measurements and distances they want for the various screen sizes, but they need to be exact? The only way to get an image size you want is to physically have it a specific distance below and away?


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## MDesigns

Syed117 said:


> I'm sure this has been asked and maybe I'm just missing it, but there is no range adjustment on the projector itself?
> 
> Like on your average projector the throw distance is always a range. I see the measurements and distances they want for the various screen sizes, but they need to be exact? *The only way to get an image size you want is to physically have it a specific distance below and away?*


Yes, that is the way it goes with Ultra Short Throw projectors.


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## Syed117

MDesigns said:


> Yes, that is the way it goes with Ultra Short Throw projectors.


Yeah, that's what I was afraid of. Let's see how it works out. Thanks.


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## Casey_Bryson

Mikenificent1 said:


> thanks for letting us know about the trial. I’m on the fence and did not know about that.
> 
> If you’re in a light controlled theater with recessed lights, don’t bother with any image degrading ALR screen. Instead, control the directionality of the lights. I did a combination of things in my room. The cans closest to the screen, I changed the led bulbs to spot instead of flood and added an eyelid trim:
> 
> Nora 6" Half Moon Black Wall Wash Trim with Reflector - Lighting Accessories - Amazon.com
> 
> For the rest of the lights, I just retrofitted a black baffle to all the flood LED lights. Luckily the LED’s I have, have a black insert option.
> 
> The pic below was before I got the eyelids and just had the black baffles. Still a huge difference, and this is with a 110” Studiotek 100, which is the ultimate in picture quality, but the least forgiving with ambient light. Hard to tell, but the room is fully lit, but the screen wall is dark (intentionally). Room is still being worked on:
> 
> View attachment 3053374



Now just imagine how much better it would look with a proper CLR screen-- no light reflecting on your ceiling and better blacks. That's what you'd get with a UST and a UST CLR screen.

You're not trying to say your Stewart screen is going to look better than a UST CLR screen right?


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## Mikenificent1

Casey_Bryson said:


> Now just imagine how much better it would look with a proper CLR screen-- no light reflecting on your ceiling and better blacks. That's what you'd get with a UST and a UST CLR screen.
> 
> You're not trying to say your Stewart screen is going to look better than a UST CLR screen right?


Yes, that’s exactly what I’m saying. Anyone that knows screens, would know why.

You will have better blacks, but I will have better whites, more pop, and a brighter image. i will have velvet on the ceiling, so I won’t have any reflections on the ceiling and an even more immersive experience. In addition, unlike any CLR screen, there are no sparklies, it has a sharper image, there is no screen texture, no masking of resolution, better uniformity. 

The only thing CLR does better is ambient light rejection. The way it rejects ambient light is what leads to all the other picture degradation. It doesn’t magically reject ambient light, and all else remains equal. The ‘lenses”, lattices, screen coatings that are all used to reject light, also degrade picture quality.

As my photo shows, with proper lighting, I can watch with all the lights on, not even have to reject ambient light, and have an excellent image.


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## Syed117

Alright. Screen is up. 

Elite screens instructions were terrible, but the end result seems pretty good. 

The 16th seems like ages away.
















Sent from my SM-F916U1 using Tapatalk


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## Casey_Bryson

Mikenificent1 said:


> Yes, that’s exactly what I’m saying. Anyone that knows screens, would know why.
> 
> You will have better blacks, but I will have better whites, more pop, and a brighter image. i will have velvet on the ceiling, so I won’t have any reflections on the ceiling and an even more immersive experience. In addition, unlike any CLR screen, there are no sparklies, it has a sharper image, there is no screen texture, no masking of resolution, better uniformity.
> 
> The only thing CLR does better is ambient light rejection. The way it rejects ambient light is what leads to all the other picture degradation. It doesn’t magically reject ambient light, and all else remains equal. The ‘lenses”, lattices, screen coatings that are all used to reject light, also degrade picture quality.
> 
> As my photo shows, with proper lighting, I can watch with all the lights on, not even have to reject ambient light, and have an excellent image.



Let me know when you're done watching that football game or your next movie with that magnifying glass 6 inches from your screen. Because you've missed the fact that you're over shooting your screen top and bottom by almost the same margin.👇










Obviously we disagree by a large margin so I'll just leave it there-- More power to you if it works for you--we all have to work with what we've got.

For everyone else...get a UST CLR screen. You'll appreciate not having to put velvet on your ceiling, the deeper blacks, and more pop/HDR...Because again your blacks are deeper.

At the very least get samples and let your eyes tell you which is better...not your wallet.


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## Mikenificent1

Casey_Bryson said:


> Let me know when you're done watching that football game or your next movie with that magnifying glass 6 inches from your screen. Because you've missed the fact that you're over shooting your screen top and bottom by almost the same margin.👇
> 
> View attachment 3053557
> 
> 
> Obviously we disagree by a large margin so I'll just leave it there-- More power to you if it works for you--we all have to work with what we've got.
> 
> For everyone else...get a UST CLR screen. You'll appreciate not having to put velvet on your ceiling, the deeper blacks, and more pop/HDR...Because again your blacks are deeper.
> 
> At the very least get samples and let your eyes tell you which is better...not your wallet.


You’re probably used to using one because you’re obviously blind lol. It’s a 2.0 aspect ratio screen and zoomed in at that moment. 

I’ve sampled tons of screens. Any screen with a gain coating is going to have different degrees of those issues. ALR/CLR even worse. You will never see one in a high performance theater, only a living room. Which is perfectly fine, because there, anything else would be washed out. There, a CLR is superior. Don’t make the mistake that it’s because of better image quality though.

Most UST’s are intended for the living room. What makes the Samsung potentially appealing in a theater is it’s ultra sharpness, extremely wide color gamut, laser, lumens, and seemingly good black levels. 

Anyway, to get back on track since this is not a screen thread, I hope there is a real review soon of the Samsung with measurements; specifically uniformity, contrast, lumens, and close ups of the pixel grid.


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## Mikenificent1

Syed117 said:


> I'm sure this has been asked and maybe I'm just missing it, but there is no range adjustment on the projector itself?
> 
> Like on your average projector the throw distance is always a range. I see the measurements and distances they want for the various screen sizes, but they need to be exact? The only way to get an image size you want is to physically have it a specific distance below and away?


A motorized sled would be nice.


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## bennutt

Let’s take the screen thing in a slightly different direction. Can I mount this above my screen in a ceiling mode?
It would require a standard screen or a UST upside down. Why couldn’t that work? It would allow my center channel to stay where it is. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mcollin6

You really need to do something about your ceiling. Light pollution from there will kill your black levels.



Mikenificent1 said:


> thanks for letting us know about the trial. I’m on the fence and did not know about that.
> 
> If you’re in a light controlled theater with recessed lights, don’t bother with any image degrading ALR screen. Instead, control the directionality of the lights. I did a combination of things in my room. The cans closest to the screen, I changed the led bulbs to spot instead of flood and added an eyelid trim:
> 
> Nora 6" Half Moon Black Wall Wash Trim with Reflector - Lighting Accessories - Amazon.com
> 
> For the rest of the lights, I just retrofitted a black baffle to all the flood LED lights. Luckily the LED’s I have, have a black insert option.
> 
> The pic below was before I got the eyelids and just had the black baffles. Still a huge difference, and this is with a 110” Studiotek 100, which is the ultimate in picture quality, but the least forgiving with ambient light. Hard to tell, but the room is fully lit, but the screen wall is dark (intentionally). Room is still being worked on:
> 
> View attachment 3053374


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## mcollin6

Mikenificent1 said:


> Yes, that’s exactly what I’m saying. Anyone that knows screens, would know why.
> 
> You will have better blacks, but I will have better whites, more pop, and a brighter image. i will have velvet on the ceiling, so I won’t have any reflections on the ceiling and an even more immersive experience. In addition, unlike any CLR screen, there are no sparklies, it has a sharper image, there is no screen texture, no masking of resolution, better uniformity.
> 
> The only thing CLR does better is ambient light rejection. The way it rejects ambient light is what leads to all the other picture degradation. It doesn’t magically reject ambient light, and all else remains equal. The ‘lenses”, lattices, screen coatings that are all used to reject light, also degrade picture quality.
> 
> As my photo shows, with proper lighting, I can watch with all the lights on, not even have to reject ambient light, and have an excellent image.


Couldn’t disagree with you more. The high incident angle from a UST onto a non UST screen will present terrible light pollution. This is completely different than a long throw projector.


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## mcollin6

bennutt said:


> Let’s take the screen thing in a slightly different direction. Can I mount this above my screen in a ceiling mode?
> It would require a standard screen or a UST upside down. Why couldn’t that work? It would allow my center channel to stay where it is.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


UST upside down is a bad idea as all overhead light would wash out your screen.


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## tnaik4

If possible ,someone needs to measure black level and contrast ratio on this projector , it would be of great help .


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## Charles R

Syed117 said:


> Alright. Screen is up.


If the bottom of the screen is attached to the wall based on how the projected image lines up (with the screen) you might want to unattached the bottom mounts and let the screen "hang" In my case after using several projectors/screens I place spacers behind the top mounts and let it hang. Even then I have to place a few additional spacers behind the bottom mounts to "square" the frame with the image. Now it's probably worse for me since I'm using two walls for mounting with a shelf mounted projector but I'm guessing few walls are actually perfectly "flat"


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## Syed117

Charles R said:


> If the bottom of the screen is attached to the wall based on how the projected image lines up (with the screen) you might want to unattached the bottom mounts and let the screen "hang" In my case after using several projectors/screens I place spacers behind the top mounts and let it hang. Even then I have to place a few additional spacers behind the bottom mounts to "square" the frame with the image. Now it's probably worse for me since I'm using two walls for mounting with a shelf mounted projector but I'm guessing few walls are actually perfectly "flat"


It's not attached at the bottom, but it is a bit further away from the wall at the top due to the brackets.

Good suggestion. Will put some spacers behind the bottom corners so that it's more uniform instead of having that slight angle. Thanks.


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## bennutt

Shaping up to be an awesome Friday.










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## bennutt

bennutt said:


> Shaping up to be an awesome Friday.
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> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Note that a single sheet of wrap is all that stands between projector and weather exposure through handles.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Syed117

bennutt said:


> Shaping up to be an awesome Friday.
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> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Awesome. Congrats!

Let us know how it goes. I can't believe I have to wait 10 days. For the price they should be sending it overnight immediately.


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## 1nquisitive

I'm so envious of people who aren't affected by the Rainbow Effect . . . Super sad I have to return mine.


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## bennutt

It seems to have plenty of reachable settings for gamma and color space without needing service level calibration access.



















And while waiting for my screen this is a raw beige sheetrock wall with an open daylight window on it.











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## mcollin6

bennutt said:


> It seems to have plenty of reachable settings for gamma and color space without needing service level calibration access.
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> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Is there anything in the setup that confirms that it is HDMI 2.1 compliant?


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## bennutt

mcollin6 said:


> Is there anything in the setup that confirms that it is HDMI 2.1 compliant?


Not that I have seen but PlayStation 5 appears next week so I will have something to test.

I noted that Apple TV goes to 4K HDR 60hz with no Dolby Vision option or indication of HDR 10+ instead.


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## Run&Gun

1nquisitive said:


> I'm so envious of people who aren't affected by the Rainbow Effect . . . Super sad I have to return mine.


You should have given it a week or two to give your brain a chance to tune it out. I can see "RBE", but I was just trying to force myself to see it a moment ago on my HU85 and couldn't.


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## bennutt

I don’t yet have my screen, but I’m already concerned about the 120” screen size blurring text.

At 100” the text is sharper than 120 in the upper corners. I’m
Just floating it around on a box right now.

120”









100”









Never mind! RTFM issue, I found the missing focus adjustment- all good now.


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## Run&Gun

Does it have a focus adjustment?


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## bennutt

Run&Gun said:


> Does it have a focus adjustment?


Yep. I was being an idiot. Found the setting buried under general instead of in picture where I expected it.


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## bennutt

Ran an Xbox and PlayStation test tonight. No more fear of lag issues...first person shooter was perfect. Game mode delivers on this projector!
Can’t wait for the screen to show up.


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## Larry J

I don't see any rainbows on this one, but I'm use to DLP. I did see them some way back when first using some of the infocus PJ's like the SP-7200, around 2002. Never did completely stop seeing them with any of their lineup but it did get better. Then used mostly JVC & Sony for probably 16 years then the Optoma UHZ65 which I also like. I did see them again after all that time but less, but now see none at all. Just stopped seeing rainbows after awhile with the Optoma. Unless I put a effort into trying, like putting moving white letters on black and shaking my head or moving eyes fast. 

I also don't see any laser speckle either, but I use a white screen. Which based on comments all around for awhile I wasn't sure what to think using that with a UST. But after reading some reviews that tested some UST's with a studiotek100 & 130G3 I realized it wasn't a problem. I have the 130 G4 version and looks great to me. Never heard anyone that does an actual review say those screens weren't one of the best for, no sheen, no sparkle, perfect color, perfect uniformity, perfect viewing angles, better sharpness, HDR, 4k, less artifacts, etc. 

Sure they don't reject light so good but the G4 does some. I was curious so I put a light meter over my screen on the ceiling looking down. On a regular picture with quite a bit of white it showed 11 lux. I turned the Optoma regular throw on and did the same with the exact same results, 11 lux. I just don't see any so called light spray on this white screen made worse with the Samsung. I do see popping colors though. Yeah I know the other types are good for various reasons for light rejection. Just don't know what the point is if one has light control. 

After getting the Samsung in the true right position the focus over the screen appears to be fine. Just focus the corners comparing both sides and balance it out if necessary. I attempted in the past to take a picture up close with patterns to show it, but the camera picked up the red,green blue when that close to the screen. Which didn't look good on a still picture. Kind of normal for DLP & cameras I think.


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## Mikenificent1

Larry J said:


> I don't see any rainbows on this one, but I'm use to DLP. I did see them some way back when first using some of the infocus PJ's like the SP-7200, around 2002. Never did completely stop seeing them with any of their lineup but it did get better. Then used mostly JVC & Sony for probably 16 years then the Optoma UHZ65 which I also like. I did see them again after all that time but less, but now see none at all. Just stopped seeing rainbows after awhile with the Optoma. Unless I put a effort into trying, like putting moving white letters on black and shaking my head or moving eyes fast.
> 
> I also don't see any laser speckle either, but I use a white screen. Which based on comments all around for awhile I wasn't sure what to think using that with a UST. But after reading some reviews that tested some UST's with a studiotek100 & 130G3 I realized it wasn't a problem. I have the 130 G4 version and looks great to me. Never heard anyone that does an actual review say those screens weren't one of the best for, no sheen, no sparkle, perfect color, perfect uniformity, perfect viewing angles, better sharpness, HDR, 4k, less artifacts, etc.
> 
> Sure they don't reject light so good but the G4 does some. I was curious so I put a light meter over my screen on the ceiling looking down. On a regular picture with quite a bit of white it showed 11 lux. I turned the Optoma regular throw on and did the same with the exact same results, 11 lux. I just don't see any so called light spray on this white screen made worse with the Samsung. I do see popping colors though. Yeah I know the other types are good for various reasons for light rejection. Just don't know what the point is if one has light control.


How can this be? The two guys on here who are clearly amateurs say otherwise! Don’t you know that the light “pollution” on the ceiling is more important than the image on the screen itself??? One of them even said you would see the picture on the ceiling if you didn’t use a “UST” screen. (sarcasm)

On a more serious note, how do you like the black levels? Are you getting close to 2800 lumens?


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## avsenthusiast

I wonder if a screen like this would pair perfectly with LSP9T? What do you all think? 120'' EluneVision Reference 8K Motorized Short Throw ALR Projection Screen - Eastporters Audio Video


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## bebbsie23

Mikenificent1 said:


> How can this be? The two guys on here who are clearly amateurs say otherwise! Don’t you know that the light “pollution” on the ceiling is more important than the image on the screen itself??? One of them even said you would see the picture on the ceiling if you didn’t use a “UST” screen. (sarcasm)
> 
> On a more serious note, how do you like the black levels? Are you getting close to 2800 lumens?


Is it not reasonable to theorize that light pollution from a white ceiling will negatively impact the image on the screen if you aren't using a CLR screen?


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## mcollin6

Mikenificent1 said:


> How can this be? The two guys on here who are clearly amateurs say otherwise! Don’t you know that the light “pollution” on the ceiling is more important than the image on the screen itself??? One of them even said you would see the picture on the ceiling if you didn’t use a “UST” screen. (sarcasm)
> 
> On a more serious note, how do you like the black levels? Are you getting close to 2800 lumens?


Yup! That’s me! Physics doesnt change just because I am an amateur! 11lux is still enough light to effect black levels. (No sarcasm). There is no need to attack users on this forum. (Also no sarcasm). The G3 is a lambertIan screen with no half-angle brightness reduction per Stewart. Physics says you will get better black levels on a UST screen, especially with a laser light source Brightness should be better as well as the light from a UST screen is directed back to the viewer better with the lenticular design. At least in theory.

For the record, I have advanced degrees in aerospace engineering, mechanical engineering with minors in physics and mathematics, and years of experience in photometrics as an automotive engineer. I am an amateur, but I am always interested in learning new things. I would be very interested in learning the reason why a lambertIan screen is better than a lenticular one for UST applications. I have queries in to various screen material manufacturers, but so far I have been told that those characteristics are proprietary and confidential. Since you are implying that you are a professional, would you be willing to share any info? (No sarcasm)


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## mcollin6

avsscientist said:


> I wonder if a screen like this would pair perfectly with LSP9T? What do you all think? 120'' EluneVision Reference 8K Motorized Short Throw ALR Projection Screen - Eastporters Audio Video


I have talked to them and their Aurora material is better than their Reference material. I was told the saw tooth is more defined in manufacturing, resulting in a better image. There are YouTube video comparisons, if you search for them.


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## bebbsie23

mcollin6 said:


> I have talked to them and their Aurora material is better than their Reference material. I was told the saw tooth is more defined in manufacturing, resulting in a better image. There are YouTube video comparisons, if you search for them.


It's a shame the Aurora isn't available in a motorized option. Also when I spoke to them a couple of months ago, the Aurora wasn't available in 120 inch (although that may have changed now)

I'm told LSP9T will be announced for UK next week and we should see some more "pro" reviews when the review embargo is lifted on Nov 11th. I will be placing my order as soon as its available so I'm also looking for a decent motorized screen to pair with it.


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## mcollin6

mcollin6 said:


> Yup! That’s me! Physics doesnt change just because I am an amateur! 11lux is still enough light to effect black levels. (No sarcasm). There is no need to attack users on this forum. (Also no sarcasm). The G3 is a lambertIan screen with no half-angle brightness reduction per Stewart. Physics says you will get better black levels on a UST screen, especially with a laser light source Brightness should be better as well as the light from a UST screen is directed back to the viewer better with the lenticular design. At least in theory.
> 
> For the record, I have advanced degrees in aerospace engineering, mechanical engineering with minors in physics and mathematics, and years of experience in photometrics as an automotive engineer. I am an amateur, but I am always interested in learning new things. I would be very interested in learning the reason why a lambertIan screen is better than a lenticular one for UST applications. I have queries in to various screen material manufacturers, but so far I have been told that those characteristics are proprietary and confidential. Since you are implying that you are a professional, would you be willing to share any info? (No sarcasm)


Oops, I looked at the wrong screen. The G3 has a half gain angle of 68 degrees. With the UST angle hitting the center of the screen at about 60 degrees, there should be some significant loss in brightness.


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## bennutt

Mikenificent1 said:


> How can this be? The two guys on here who are clearly amateurs say otherwise! Don’t you know that the light “pollution” on the ceiling is more important than the image on the screen itself??? One of them even said you would see the picture on the ceiling if you didn’t use a “UST” screen. (sarcasm)
> 
> On a more serious note, how do you like the black levels? Are you getting close to 2800 lumens?


I asked in the form of a question 
I was genuinely curious if it would be an actual issue.

With my test in a room with a crown moulding around the 9 foot line (just projecting on a raw wall) it lit up like a Phillips hue light... which is fine if I never want a totally dark theater.


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## bennutt

For video gamers, here was a quick lag test I was running on a dark brown wall. Still image just to show how crappy the wall / no alignment effort is before you see the video...









The first person shooter example....







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## Syed117

Very nice. 

Have a series x and ps5 coming next week. Can't wait. 

Sent from my SM-F916U1 using Tapatalk


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## avsenthusiast

bebbsie23 said:


> It's a shame the Aurora isn't available in a motorized option. Also when I spoke to them a couple of months ago, the Aurora wasn't available in 120 inch (although that may have changed now)


I wonder if the "design" or "texture" of screen doesn't permit Aurora to be rolled up without damaging it. If yes, this would be very sad because it means we will never have the best quality screen in motorized version? 

But more importantly, I wonder if Elunevision's "Reference" or "Aurora" made for UST projectors will be the best screens for the Samsung LSP9T, or there are better screens available?


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## Mikenificent1

mcollin6 said:


> Yup! That’s me! Physics doesnt change just because I am an amateur! 11lux is still enough light to effect black levels. (No sarcasm). There is no need to attack users on this forum. (Also no sarcasm). The G3 is a lambertIan screen with no half-angle brightness reduction per Stewart. Physics says you will get better black levels on a UST screen, especially with a laser light source Brightness should be better as well as the light from a UST screen is directed back to the viewer better with the lenticular design. At least in theory.
> 
> For the record, I have advanced degrees in aerospace engineering, mechanical engineering with minors in physics and mathematics, and years of experience in photometrics as an automotive engineer. I am an amateur, but I am always interested in learning new things. I would be very interested in learning the reason why a lambertIan screen is better than a lenticular one for UST applications. I have queries in to various screen material manufacturers, but so far I have been told that those characteristics are proprietary and confidential. Since you are implying that you are a professional, would you be willing to share any info? (No sarcasm)


That’s the vibe I was getting from you guys, that was the reasoning. You’re right. if you read what I previously wrote, I did not deny you would get “better” black levels, but that is at the expense of white levels and pop. You’re not getting better black levels not just because of the directionality of the screen, it’s also because of the actual black color of the substrate. That‘s what dims the picture. They try and make up for that with a lot of added gain. They add gain by adding tiny glass or similar particles to the coating. Those tiny particles light up unevenly in certain spots and actually glow in bright white light, those are “sparklies”. The lenticular lenses and the gain coatings all add visible texture to the screen. The same way they control directionality of ambient light, also can affect the uniformity of the light being reflected back to the viewer.

‘If you’re sitting 15 ft away or more, it’s probably a moot point, but then, so would 4k. Also, like a myriad of other things, some people are not sensitive to it or they accept the trade offs.

These deficiencies apply to any projector not just UST. Like I said, in a living room, it’s a worthwhile trade off, but in a theater, where ambient light is not an issue, you wouldn’t trade off the degraded picture quality for ambient light rejection, and the light pollution is easily mitigated with black velvet which would even give a better image for a CLR screen as well when watching movies in the dark. Reason being, with velvet on the walls, you can’t really see the walls and the image then appears to just pop and float. This also gives the impression the screen looks larger.

Do you plan on getting the Samsung?


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## Mikenificent1

bennutt said:


> For video gamers, here was a quick lag test I was running on a dark brown wall. Still image just to show how crappy the wall / no alignment effort is before you see the video...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first person shooter example....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Is your wall not flat, or is the projector causing the top and bottom of the image to not be straight lines?

FPS can be ok till you get into the battle royale modes, when you need every ms you can get. My JVC is around 40ms I believe in game mode and it finally drove me nuts. The Samsung is 53ms in game mode I believe.

I just play on a 32” monitor at 1ms and sit literally 12” away lol. With PS5 it will be an even bigger difference because I plan on getting a an HDMI 2.1 monitor with 120 frame rate and VRR. If an opponent now has 52ms less lag, AND better frame rate, you will be at a serious disadvantage.

Non FPS games I’m sure will be glorious on the Samsung.


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## mcollin6

Mikenificent1 said:


> That’s the vibe I was getting from you guys, that was the reasoning. You’re right. if you read what I previously wrote, I did not deny you would get “better” black levels, but that is at the expense of white levels and pop. You’re not getting better black levels not just because of the directionality of the screen, it’s also because of the actual black color of the substrate. That‘s what dims the picture. They try and make up for that with a lot of added gain. They add gain by adding tiny glass or similar particles to the coating. Those tiny particles light up unevenly in certain spots and actually glow in bright white light, those are “sparklies”. The lenticular lenses and the gain coatings all add visible texture to the screen. The same way they control directionality of ambient light, also can affect the uniformity of the light being reflected back to the viewer.
> 
> ‘If you’re sitting 15 ft away or more, it’s probably a moot point, but then, so would 4k. Also, like a myriad of other things, some people are not sensitive to it or they accept the trade offs.
> 
> These deficiencies apply to any projector not just UST. Like I said, in a living room, it’s a worthwhile trade off, but in a theater, where ambient light is not an issue, you wouldn’t trade off the degraded picture quality for ambient light rejection, and the light pollution is easily mitigated with black velvet which would even give a better image for a CLR screen as well when watching movies in the dark. Reason being, with velvet on the walls, you can’t really see the walls and the image then appears to just pop and float. This also gives the impression the screen looks larger.
> 
> 
> Do you plan on getting the Samsung?


Yes, I am planning on getting the LSP9T as soon as someone can confirm that it has HDMI 2.1 functionality (VFR is a big want for me with the new consoles). I am hoping to pair it with the EPV Darkstar UST 2 screen at 123”. However, I think that the lenticular spacing and curvature design of that screen material may put the LSP9T inside the recommended range. I suspect that lowering the screen with respect to eye level may help to alleviate some of that, but I can’t be sure. Another option would be to angle the screen downward, and the projector upward, maintaining their perpendicularity, but again, this is a guess. The only material that comes close that I can find is the DNP Screen which uses fresnel lenticles and has a thrown ratio around 0.21. 

I again have some questions into the manufacturers about uses with throw ratios less than the recommendation but I haven’t gotten any responses yet. If I could just get a dimensioned drawing of a vertical section of the screen, I would be able to answer all my questions, as I could do some ray tracing calculations on the angular reflective lenticles. 

I am still not understanding the physics here for the Studiotech 130 screen you are recommending. The Studiotech 130 has a required minimum throw ratio of 1.3 x the screen width (Per manufacturer specs). The LSP9T has a throw ratio of 0.189. That should kill all of those brights you are talking about. At that range, assuming the horizontal and vertical dispersion rates are similar to what Stewart publashes, the gain should drop from 1.3 to less than 0.5 (according to their charts). This would result in an image that is both darker and has more light pollution on the ceiling than an UST ALR screen, even in a fully dark environment. The Darkstar UST 2 for instance, would be 60% brighter, and have almost no splash on the ceiling. 

The Studiotech 100, on the other hand, is completely lambertian and would spray the light everywhere equally, including on the floor and ceiling. Even here, Stewart recommends a minimum of 0.3 throw ratio. Here, the screen would require a large amount of velvet blackout to absorb the light pollution, and still give you similar gain as the Darkstar UST 2 (1.0 vs 0.8). Its not stated explicitly, but can be inferred that being inside the 0.3 ratio would result in a reduction of the screen brightness by 15%, hitting the UST screen levels almost exactly. (Based on the light rejection properties published by the manufacturer). 

Why would recommend one of these screens against the manufacturer recommendations?


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## Mikenificent1

mcollin6 said:


> Yes, I am planning on getting the LSP9T as soon as someone can confirm that it has HDMI 2.1 functionality (VFR is a big want for me with the new consoles). I am hoping to pair it with the EPV Darkstar UST 2 screen at 123”. However, I think that the lenticular spacing and curvature design of that screen material may put the LSP9T inside the recommended range. I suspect that lowering the screen with respect to eye level may help to alleviate some of that, but I can’t be sure. Another option would be to angle the screen downward, and the projector upward, maintaining their perpendicularity, but again, this is a guess. The only material that comes close that I can find is the DNP Screen which uses fresnel lenticles and has a thrown ratio around 0.21.
> 
> I again have some questions into the manufacturers about uses with throw ratios less than the recommendation but I haven’t gotten any responses yet. If I could just get a dimensioned drawing of a vertical section of the screen, I would be able to answer all my questions, as I could do some ray tracing calculations on the angular reflective lenticles.
> 
> I am still not understanding the physics here for the Studiotech 130 screen you are recommending. The Studiotech 130 has a required minimum throw ratio of 1.3 x the screen width (Per manufacturer specs). The LSP9T has a throw ratio of 0.189. That should kill all of those brights you are talking about. At that range, assuming the horizontal and vertical dispersion rates are similar to what Stewart publashes, the gain should drop from 1.3 to less than 0.5 (according to their charts). This would result in an image that is both darker and has more light pollution on the ceiling than an UST ALR screen, even in a fully dark environment. The Darkstar UST 2 for instance, would be 60% brighter, and have almost no splash on the ceiling.
> 
> The Studiotech 100, on the other hand, is completely lambertian and would spray the light everywhere equally, including on the floor and ceiling. Even here, Stewart recommends a minimum of 0.3 throw ratio. Here, the screen would require a large amount of velvet blackout to absorb the light pollution, and still give you similar gain as the Darkstar UST 2 (1.0 vs 0.8). Its not stated explicitly, but can be inferred that being inside the 0.3 ratio would result in a reduction of the screen brightness by 15%, hitting the UST screen levels almost exactly. (Based on the light rejection properties published by the manufacturer).
> 
> Why would recommend one of these screens against the manufacturer recommendations?


Ironically, I used to have the DNP Supernova lol. The blacks were excellent, the lack of ceiling reflection was great, but I returned it a week later and had to pay a huge restocking fee. All because of the image degradation issues I mentioned. I even had a large sample before I ordered. Seemed OK, till I got it. You can’t see some of these issues from a sample, because the issue could be on certain spots of the image depending on content and your angle to the material. I received other screen samples as well from many different manufacturers. You just can’t get around the physics of how they achieve the light rejection and gain. Until a true novel technology comes out, it’s not worth a theater environment..

I’m not recommending the 130, I have the 100. Although as has been mentioned by others, there was no issues with the 130 screens with UST. Aztar has the Stewart Neve and used it with the Samsung and he said it was the sharpest image he has seen, and he has some really good projectors. The 100 would have even less potential issues.

Those throw ratios were spec’ d for ceiling mounted from projection, but it’s worth mentioning. I will email Stewart, curious on their thoughts.


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## driege

Mikenificent1 said:


> Ironically, I used to have the DNP Supernova lol. The blacks were excellent, the lack of ceiling reflection was great, but I returned it a week later and had to pay a huge restocking fee. All because of the image degradation issues I mentioned. I even had a large sample before I ordered. Seemed OK, till I got it. You can’t see some of these issues from a sample, because the issue could be on certain spots of the image depending on content and your angle to the material. I received other screen samples as well from many different manufacturers. You just can’t get around the physics of how they achieve the light rejection and gain. Until a true novel technology comes out, it’s not worth a theater environment..


Isn't the DNP Supernova supposed to be the same as the Viewsonic BCP100/120 that I have (supposedly DNP white labeled it for ViewSonic)? I was told by people on this board that it can't fully resolve 4k - only 1080p. To me 4k content still looks waaaay better than 1080p content, but perhaps you were noticing issues that were due to that specific screen's supported resolution and not something inherent in all CLR screens.


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## mcollin6

Mikenificent1 said:


> Ironically, I used to have the DNP Supernova lol. The blacks were excellent, the lack of ceiling reflection was great, but I returned it a week later and had to pay a huge restocking fee. All because of the image degradation issues I mentioned. I even had a large sample before I ordered. Seemed OK, till I got it. You can’t see some of these issues from a sample, because the issue could be on certain spots of the image depending on content and your angle to the material. I received other screen samples as well from many different manufacturers. You just can’t get around the physics of how they achieve the light rejection and gain. Until a true novel technology comes out, it’s not worth a theater environment..
> 
> I’m not recommending the 130, I have the 100. Although as has been mentioned by others, there was no issues with the 130 screens with UST. Aztar has the Stewart Neve and used it with the Samsung and he said it was the sharpest image he has seen, and he has some really good projectors. The 100 would have even less potential issues.
> 
> Those throw ratios were spec’ d for ceiling mounted from projection, but it’s worth mentioning. I will email Stewart, curious on their thoughts.


I got the auto-reply from Stewart. Waiting on them and DNP as well. Elite screens doesn’t seem to do much but screen assembly. Been waiting on a response from them for over a week now. May try SI next.

Your response about the Studiotech makes zero sense from both a physics and manufacturer recommendation. Like I said earlier, give me a dimensioned drawing and material component make-up, and I can easily tell you which one is better. It’s not rocket science, you just have to do reflective, refractive and dispersion calculations as you ray trace the light through each medium.

I am curious, did you use the Supernovs STS or STW material? The STW is the one That has the closest recommended throw ratio. What projector did you use with the DNP screen?


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## Mike Garrett

mcollin6 said:


> Yup! That’s me! Physics doesnt change just because I am an amateur! 11lux is still enough light to effect black levels. (No sarcasm). There is no need to attack users on this forum. (Also no sarcasm). The G3 is a lambertIan screen with no half-angle brightness reduction per Stewart. Physics says you will get better black levels on a UST screen, especially with a laser light source *Brightness should be better as well as the light from a UST screen is directed back to the viewer better with the lenticular design.* At least in theory.
> 
> For the record, I have advanced degrees in aerospace engineering, mechanical engineering with minors in physics and mathematics, and years of experience in photometrics as an automotive engineer. I am an amateur, but I am always interested in learning new things. I would be very interested in learning the reason why a lambertIan screen is better than a lenticular one for UST applications. I have queries in to various screen material manufacturers, but so far I have been told that those characteristics are proprietary and confidential. Since you are implying that you are a professional, would you be willing to share any info? (No sarcasm)


This part is not remotely correct and it is simple basic math. The gain on all of these UST screens is anywhere from 0.45 to 0.8. The gain on ST100 is 1.0 and gain on ST130 is 1.3. UST ALR screens also have reduced viewing angle. just like regular throw screens do. So if you are off angle the brightness drops off just like it does with a regular screen. In fact the UST ALR screens usually have smaller half angles than regular screens. You do lose some brightness due to the angle of the beam, still will be brighter than most if not all UST ALR screens. If you don't think so, just take a light meter reading off the UST ALR screen and then place a sample of ST130 and ST100 on the UST ALR screen and take a measurement.


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## Mike Garrett

mcollin6 said:


> Oops, I looked at the wrong screen. The G3 has a half gain angle of 68 degrees. With the UST angle hitting the center of the screen at about 60 degrees, there should be some significant loss in brightness.


Angle is 60 degrees and the half angle of ST130 G3 is 68 degrees. So the gain will be around 0.65 to 0.7, that is higher than most of the UST ALR screens. ST100 has a half angle of 180 degrees, so no drop off and ST130 G4 has a half angle of 80 degrees, so less drop off, probably around 0.75 to 0.8 gain.


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## akin4851

Larry J said:


> I don't see any rainbows on this one, but I'm use to DLP. I did see them some way back when first using some of the infocus PJ's like the SP-7200, around 2002. Never did completely stop seeing them with any of their lineup but it did get better. Then used mostly JVC & Sony for probably 16 years then the Optoma UHZ65 which I also like. I did see them again after all that time but less, but now see none at all. Just stopped seeing rainbows after awhile with the Optoma. Unless I put a effort into trying, like putting moving white letters on black and shaking my head or moving eyes fast.
> 
> I also don't see any laser speckle either, but I use a white screen. Which based on comments all around for awhile I wasn't sure what to think using that with a UST. But after reading some reviews that tested some UST's with a studiotek100 & 130G3 I realized it wasn't a problem. I have the 130 G4 version and looks great to me. Never heard anyone that does an actual review say those screens weren't one of the best for, no sheen, no sparkle, perfect color, perfect uniformity, perfect viewing angles, better sharpness, HDR, 4k, less artifacts, etc.
> 
> Sure they don't reject light so good but the G4 does some. I was curious so I put a light meter over my screen on the ceiling looking down. On a regular picture with quite a bit of white it showed 11 lux. I turned the Optoma regular throw on and did the same with the exact same results, 11 lux. I just don't see any so called light spray on this white screen made worse with the Samsung. I do see popping colors though. Yeah I know the other types are good for various reasons for light rejection. Just don't know what the point is if one has light control.
> 
> After getting the Samsung in the true right position the focus over the screen appears to be fine. Just focus the corners comparing both sides and balance it out if necessary. I attempted in the past to take a picture up close with patterns to show it, but the camera picked up the red,green blue when that close to the screen. Which didn't look good on a still picture. Kind of normal for DLP & cameras I think.


I an currently debating between this and the Optoma UHZ65. Since you've had both, which would you say has the best picture quality?


----------



## mcollin6

Mike Garrett said:


> Angle is 60 degrees and the half angle of ST130 G3 is 68 degrees. So the gain will be around 0.65 to 0.7, that is higher than most of the UST ALR screens. ST100 has a half angle of 180 degrees, so no drop off and ST130 G4 has a half angle of 80 degrees, so less drop off, probably around 0.75 to 0.8 gain.


I looked at the Studiotech 130 gain chart when making my prior statement. Compared to the Darkstar UST 2 you quoted me, the brightness will be less for the 130 using the inclination for the LSP9T. I haven’t seen the gain charts for the D. S UST 2 screen, especially in the vertical orientation, so that might not be true if we are too close to the screen.I think that my calculation was around 67 degrees to the center of the screen. You also lose the light pollution reduction that the UST gives you. Also, that 67 degrees is to the center of the screen. At the top of the screen, the angle of inclination will be even higher, resulting in a loss of even greater brightness. The resulting bright spot and dark areas shouldn’t be too noticeable, though since the gain would vary between 0.9 - 0.6. That’s better than I get with my current Cinegrey 3D screen and I only see hotspotting when I have solid colors.

Since Mikenificent1 has promised not to make any more comments, while mocking me at the same time, and you seem to understand the math, can you tell me anything that might be wrong with this summary?

Studio Tech 100 G3 ST 130 G4. Studio Tech 100 Darkstar UST 2
Effective Gain 0.65 @ center 0.75 @ Center 1.00 everywhere* 0.8 @ everywhere **
Light pollution. Medium to low. Higher than G3 Very High Low to very low
Cost @123” Fixed $$$ $$$ $$$. $$

* Studiotech 100 calls out a minimum throw ratio of 0.3 with a ALR reduction of 15% which might lower this number
**. Darkstar UST 2 doesn’t have a published minimum throw ratio, but if it matches ES CLR3 the minimum throw ratio may not be met with the LSP9T and have adverse effects on the brightness.

I appreciate the opportunity to learn more, even if it costs me mockery and derision. Can you tell me where I may have something incorrect?

Thanks, Mike


----------



## mcollin6

mcollin6 said:


> I looked at the Studiotech 130 gain chart when making my prior statement. Compared to the Darkstar UST 2 you quoted me, the brightness will be less for the 130 using the inclination for the LSP9T. I haven’t seen the gain charts for the D. S UST 2 screen, especially in the vertical orientation, so that might not be true if we are too close to the screen.I think that my calculation was around 67 degrees to the center of the screen. You also lose the light pollution reduction that the UST gives you. Also, that 67 degrees is to the center of the screen. At the top of the screen, the angle of inclination will be even higher, resulting in a loss of even greater brightness. The resulting bright spot and dark areas shouldn’t be too noticeable, though since the gain would vary between 0.9 - 0.6. That’s better than I get with my current Cinegrey 3D screen and I only see hotspotting when I have solid colors.
> 
> Since Mikenificent1 has promised not to make any more comments, while mocking me at the same time, and you seem to understand the math, can you tell me anything that might be wrong with this summary?
> 
> Studio Tech 100 G3 ST 130 G4. Studio Tech 100 Darkstar UST 2
> Effective Gain 0.65 @ center 0.75 @ Center 1.00 everywhere* 0.8 @ everywhere **
> Light pollution. Medium to low. Higher than G3 Very High Low to very low
> Cost @123” Fixed $$$ $$$ $$$. $$
> 
> * Studiotech 100 calls out a minimum throw ratio of 0.3 with a ALR reduction of 15% which might lower this number
> **. Darkstar UST 2 doesn’t have a published minimum throw ratio, but if it matches ES CLR3 the minimum throw ratio may not be met with the LSP9T and have adverse effects on the brightness.
> 
> I appreciate the opportunity to learn more, even if it costs me mockery and derision. Can you tell me where I may have something incorrect?
> 
> Thanks, Mike


Looks like my table didn’t parse the way I hoped. Sorry.


----------



## mcollin6

How accurate is this?


----------



## mcollin6

mcollin6 said:


> How accurate is this?
> View attachment 3054131


Sorry, first column should read ST 130 G3. Wish I could delete.


----------



## bennutt

mcollin6 said:


> Is there anything in the setup that confirms that it is HDMI 2.1 compliant?


I still don’t have a good way to “confirm” HDMI 2.1 or not... however, the Samsung spec sheets for Q series TVs explicitly call out a single HDMI 2.1 port, and the similar format pdf from the same site does NOT.



https://image-us.samsung.com/SamsungUS/samsung/us/tvs/LSP9T_Premiere_Laser_Projector_Spec_Sheet_R8.pdf



I’m assuming HDMI 2.0 with eArc


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Mike Garrett

mcollin6 said:


> Yes, I am planning on getting the LSP9T as soon as someone can confirm that it has HDMI 2.1 functionality (VFR is a big want for me with the new consoles). I am hoping to pair it with the EPV Darkstar UST 2 screen at 123”. However, I think that the lenticular spacing and curvature design of that screen material may put the LSP9T inside the recommended range. I suspect that lowering the screen with respect to eye level may help to alleviate some of that, but I can’t be sure. Another option would be to angle the screen downward, and the projector upward, maintaining their perpendicularity, but again, this is a guess. The only material that comes close that I can find is the DNP Screen which uses fresnel lenticles and has a thrown ratio around 0.21.
> 
> I again have some questions into the manufacturers about uses with throw ratios less than the recommendation but I haven’t gotten any responses yet. If I could just get a dimensioned drawing of a vertical section of the screen, I would be able to answer all my questions, as I could do some ray tracing calculations on the angular reflective lenticles.
> 
> I am still not understanding the physics here for the Studiotech 130 screen you are recommending. The Studiotech 130 has a required minimum throw ratio of 1.3 x the screen width (Per manufacturer specs). The LSP9T has a throw ratio of 0.189. That should kill all of those brights you are talking about. At that range, assuming the horizontal and vertical dispersion rates are similar to what Stewart publashes, the gain should drop from 1.3 to less than 0.5 (according to their charts). This would result in an image that is both darker and has more light pollution on the ceiling than an UST ALR screen, even in a fully dark environment. The Darkstar UST 2 for instance, would be 60% brighter, and have almost no splash on the ceiling.
> 
> The Studiotech 100, on the other hand, is completely lambertian and would spray the light everywhere equally, including on the floor and ceiling. Even here, Stewart recommends a minimum of 0.3 throw ratio. Here, the screen would require a large amount of velvet blackout to absorb the light pollution, and still give you similar gain as the Darkstar UST 2 (1.0 vs 0.8). Its not stated explicitly, but can be inferred that being inside the 0.3 ratio would result in a reduction of the screen brightness by 15%, hitting the UST screen levels almost exactly. (Based on the light rejection properties published by the manufacturer).
> 
> Why would recommend one of these screens against the manufacturer recommendations?


When you go below the recommended throw, you do not get a reduction in brightness, you get hotspotting. But hotspotting is pretty common on ALR screens also.


----------



## Mike Garrett

mcollin6 said:


> Yes, I am planning on getting the LSP9T as soon as someone can confirm that it has HDMI 2.1 functionality (VFR is a big want for me with the new consoles). I am hoping to pair it with the EPV Darkstar UST 2 screen at 123”. However, I think that the lenticular spacing and curvature design of that screen material may put the LSP9T inside the recommended range. I suspect that lowering the screen with respect to eye level may help to alleviate some of that, but I can’t be sure. Another option would be to angle the screen downward, and the projector upward, maintaining their perpendicularity, but again, this is a guess. The only material that comes close that I can find is the DNP Screen which uses fresnel lenticles and has a thrown ratio around 0.21.
> 
> I again have some questions into the manufacturers about uses with throw ratios less than the recommendation but I haven’t gotten any responses yet. If I could just get a dimensioned drawing of a vertical section of the screen, I would be able to answer all my questions, as I could do some ray tracing calculations on the angular reflective lenticles.
> 
> I am still not understanding the physics here for the Studiotech 130 screen you are recommending. The Studiotech 130 has a required minimum throw ratio of 1.3 x the screen width (Per manufacturer specs). The LSP9T has a throw ratio of 0.189. That should kill all of those brights you are talking about. At that range, assuming the horizontal and vertical dispersion rates are similar to what Stewart publashes, the gain should drop from 1.3 to less than 0.5 (according to their charts). This would result in an image that is both darker and has more light pollution on the ceiling than an UST ALR screen, even in a fully dark environment. The Darkstar UST 2 for instance, would be 60% brighter, and have almost no splash on the ceiling.
> 
> The Studiotech 100, on the other hand, is completely lambertian and would spray the light everywhere equally, including on the floor and ceiling. Even here, Stewart recommends a minimum of 0.3 throw ratio. Here, the screen would require a large amount of velvet blackout to absorb the light pollution, and still give you similar gain as the Darkstar UST 2 (1.0 vs 0.8). Its not stated explicitly, but can be inferred that being inside the 0.3 ratio would result in a reduction of the screen brightness by 15%, hitting the UST screen levels almost exactly. (Based on the light rejection properties published by the manufacturer).
> 
> Why would recommend one of these screens against the manufacturer recommendations?


I am not saying ST130 or ST100 is the right screen to use. I was just talking about brightness. That is why I highlighted only that part. I would not use a UST DLP in a dedicated, blacked out room. I think that is the wrong application for these projectors. In a dedicated light controlled room, I would use a regular front projector with a regular white screen. I also would not use one of these UST DLP's with a ST100 or ST130 screen. Again, I think it is the wrong application.

An ALR screen is a compromise on image quality compared to a low gain white screen in a good dedicated room. That applies to all ALR type (UST, ST and regular throw) screens. But a white screen will not work very well in a room that these projectors and UST ALR screens are designed for. The trade of, of image artifacts is well worth the improvement in the image over a white screen that would be all washed out.


----------



## mcollin6

Mike Garrett said:


> When you go below the recommended throw, you do not get a reduction in brightness, you get hotspotting. But hotspotting is pretty common on ALR screens also.





Mike Garrett said:


> When you go below the recommended throw, you do not get a reduction in brightness, you get hotspotting. But hotspotting is pretty common on ALR screens also.


I must not understand how ALR Screens work, then. Just to clarify, if I were to take a 2800 lumen projector and shine it on a Studiotech 130 ALR screen at a distance where the throw ratio is greater than 1.3 (so essentially a standard throw projector), the brightness on the screen would be the same as if I used a UST projector up really close to the screen shining at a very high angle, but with a hot spot on the bottom and dim spot at the top? 

How does the ALR light rejection work, then? My understanding for the 130 screen is that light coming from the UST projector position is supposed to be directed away from the viewers eyes. If that’s the case, any light coming from that location should be directed away. That should result in a dimmer picture, not just hotspotting. Where am I going wrong?


----------



## mcollin6

bennutt said:


> I still don’t have a good way to “confirm” HDMI 2.1 or not... however, the Samsung spec sheets for Q series TVs explicitly call out a single HDMI 2.1 port, and the similar format pdf from the same site does NOT.
> 
> 
> 
> https://image-us.samsung.com/SamsungUS/samsung/us/tvs/LSP9T_Premiere_Laser_Projector_Spec_Sheet_R8.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> I’m assuming HDMI 2.0 with eArc
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That is what I was worried about. I don’t know of any way to practically check fro HDMI 2.1 other than getting a new console and looking for VRR implementation. Will keep looking for more info!


----------



## Mike Garrett

mcollin6 said:


> I must not understand how ALR Screens work, then. Just to clarify, if I were to take a 2800 lumen projector and shine it on a Studiotech 130 ALR screen at a distance where the throw ratio is greater than 1.3 (so essentially a standard throw projector), the brightness on the screen would be the same as if I used a UST projector up really close to the screen shining at a very high angle, but with a hot spot on the bottom and dim spot at the top?
> 
> How does the ALR light rejection work, then? My understanding for the 130 screen is that light coming from the UST projector position is supposed to be directed away from the viewers eyes. If that’s the case, any light coming from that location should be directed away. That should result in a dimmer picture, not just hotspotting. Where am I going wrong?


I don't know why you are bothering with this, since as I said, it is a wrong application. ST100 nor ST130 were designed for this application and should not be used.


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## mcollin6

Mike Garrett said:


> I don't know why you are bothering with this, since as I said, it is a wrong application. ST100 nor ST130 were designed for this application and should not be used.


Well, mostly because I already have a matte white and Cinegrey 3D screen at home and I‘d like to understand if I should get a UST ALR one to pair with the LSP9T or live with what I’ve got.


----------



## mcollin6

mcollin6 said:


> Well, mostly because I already have a matte white and Cinegrey 3D screen at home and I‘d like to understand if I should get a UST ALR one to pair with the LSP9T or live with what I’ve got.


Ok, that may be not the complete truth. I am also a geek and love understanding how things work. 😁. I don’t just want to know that something works, I want to know why it works. I have been told that it is an annoying character flaw.


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## jeffp021

can Anyone help with IP control of this projector? the Samsung app won’t turn this on most of the time . If I use physical remote then switch to app all is fine . I also use Roomie remote and “power toggle“ will turn it on but not off . Also find it strange the Alexa integration will not work. Shows offline And that’s built in! 
is anyone else having this issue?


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Mikenificent1 said:


> This clearly is not something you studied with your supposed degrees, and at this point since you still are not gettining it, it’s way over your head at this point. Yes, from a physics stand point it makes perfect sense. Mike Garrest broke it down in simple terms so even you can understand (hopefully). Dimensional drawing isn’t going to tell you jack. It’s not rocket science yet you still can’t figure it out. The fact that you said you will get a brighter image with a CLR screen which have negative gain, than any Studiotek, just proves you are clueless on the subject. Just give it up at this point. This is not your field. You are talking out of your you know what at this point. I’m not the only one who thinks this as you can see from other posts. This is the last time I will reply, as it’s clearly a waste of time and falling on deaf ears.


Now we all know how you really feel about everyone on here. I hope you feel good about yourself. SMH


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## Mike Garrett

mcollin6 said:


> Well, mostly because I already have a matte white and Cinegrey 3D screen at home and I‘d like to understand if I should get a UST ALR one to pair with the LSP9T or live with what I’ve got.


Then I would get the projector and test on your existing screens.


----------



## 1nquisitive

Run&Gun said:


> You should have given it a week or two to give your brain a chance to tune it out. I can see "RBE", but I was just trying to force myself to see it a moment ago on my HU85 and couldn't.


I had a different Optoma DLP machine a few years ago, and spent quite a bit of time using it. RBE never got any better for me, unfortunately . . .


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## 1nquisitive

1nquisitive said:


> Hi, folks. Below is copied from my post earlier in the comments of Mark's review.
> 
> Ok, this has been an emotional roller coaster. I received my LSP9T unit mid day yesterday, and late last night I packed it up to return to Samsung. *This is due only to the rainbow effect*. I'm on an Elite 120" CLR (not CLR2) screen. I don't "calibrate" my TV's (OLEDs) or projectors, per se, but I do spend a lot of time tweaking to my liking and getting familiar with how each setting affects the image. Firmware up to date. Quick summary of my thoughts overall:
> 
> Pros:
> 
> Absolutely stunning (to my eyes) picture. This cannot be overstated. Contrast, light output, colors, black levels, motion, focus clarity, were all jaw dropping. Focus was RAZOR sharp, and extremely uniform (I compared on several games, and an internet browser for text). I only made a minor focus adjustment out of the box, and it honestly looks as sharp as a giant television. I did not use any software driven geometry correction for aligning the picture.
> Gaming was fine. I played a variety of games. Horizon Zero Dawn, Overwatch, Street Fighter 5, Devil May Cry 5, Apex Legends, Mega Man X. Gaming mode enabled automatically (at least with the PS4 Pro), and input lag was noticeble if I really concentrated, but didn't hinder gameplay. I spent the most time with Overwatch, which is a very fast game. All game content, both HDR and SDR, looked incredible.
> Sound. The integrated sound bar is decently punchy, full, and clear for being what it is.
> Aesthetics. I quite like the look of the projector. Wish it came in black, though.
> 
> Cons:
> 
> *Rainbow Effect. This was devastating. Yes, if you're sensitive to RBE, it will be visible on this machine. I knew I was sensitive to it, but was hoping that with the three lasers (instead of a color wheel), that it'd be acceptable. It was not. *My fiancee was blown away by the picture quality, but when she saw the rainbow effect, she just exclaimed "Oh no." This is the ONLY reason am returning this projector.
> Image controls. Not as much control as I'd like to see, as can be found on an LG OLED or Epson projector, for example. No direct light output control.
> Laser speckle. I only had a rough idea of what this actually was, until I saw it. As has been noted before, it's more noticeable the closer you get to the screen. It can still be seen, if you're looking for it, at normal viewing distance, but it was totally fine for me. Wasn't a big deal, honestly.
> Light leak. Some noticeable light leak outside of the viewable area, but was never a distraction.
> Audio connection issues. The audio (via its integrated soundbar) fairly frequently would stop working, and often required me to switch a few times between sources before it returned.
> Input lag. Even in game mode, might still be a little much for some FPS gamers, particularly on PC.
> 
> Well, hopefully this is helpful to someone. If you're not sensitive to the RBE, or don't care, I can't possibly see anyone being disappointed with this. It's truly impressive, otherwise. I'm really bummed . . .


Some pics below. We fudged the screen slightly when we moved it. The goofy peak on the upper middle edge is from the screen, not the projector. Movie images are from a 4k HDR player, game images from PS4 Pro.

Just as a size comparison:










Just after turning it on:









PS4 Pro connection:









Some Overwatch:









Valerian (lights off. Sorry, didn't adjust my phone camera well on this one).









Valerian (lights on)









(Valerian, lights off)









Resident Evil 7 (this is the kind of scene where the RBE is just not acceptable and ruins the experience).









Also had an Epson LS500 over the weekend:









Epson LS500 Setup image. Image quality wise, the Samsung blows the Epson into oblivion.


----------



## gunlife

Any more comparison thoughts between the Samsung and Epson would be most appreciated!


----------



## bennutt

Messing around with settings today and found this important info. 10 bit is turned off by default on the HDMI ports.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mcollin6

bennutt said:


> Messing around with settings today and found this important info. 10 bit is turned off by default on the HDMI ports.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That definitely looks like HDMI 2.0 implementatio, not 2.1. 😥


----------



## mcollin6

jeffp021 said:


> can Anyone help with IP control of this projector? the Samsung app won’t turn this on most of the time . If I use physical remote then switch to app all is fine . I also use Roomie remote and “power toggle“ will turn it on but not off . Also find it strange the Alexa integration will not work. Shows offline And that’s built in!
> is anyone else having this issue?


Honestly, that sounds like a wake-up failure. I am just guessing, but you might have power saving mode enabled. Check your settings for eco mode or the like is turned on. If so, shut it off. Thats my best guess. You may have to contact Samsung directly.


----------



## 1nquisitive

gunlife said:


> Any more comparison thoughts between the Samsung and Epson would be most appreciated!


Here's the quick version:
Epson's black levels are actually just kinda bad. Overall contrast is unimpressive. I prefer my Epson 3800 on image quality, actually.
Samsung focus uniformity was effectively perfect, and razor sharp. The uniformity on the Epson was good, not great. And sharpness can't compare to the Samsung.
Epson is distractingly loud (to me) at above 80% brightness. Samsung is quite quiet.
Again, overall image quality on the LSP9T is miles ahead of the Epson, in all categories (to my eye).

Pros for the Epson:
Better input lag
No Rainbow Effect


----------



## kucharsk

1nquisitive said:


> *Rainbow Effect. This was devastating. Yes, if you're sensitive to RBE, it will be visible on this machine. I knew I was sensitive to it, but was hoping that with the three lasers (instead of a color wheel), that it'd be acceptable. It was not. *


Thanks for this; I am hyper-sensitive to RBE, to the point where I can tell within a few seconds or less if any given projector is single chip DLP-based.


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## Syed117

The wait is killing me. 1 more week.

Have a selection of test 4k blu rays ready to go. hdmi 2.1 would have been nice, but have a LG CX on the other side of the room for gaming. Guess 60fps on the projector for some games will still be nice.


----------



## avsenthusiast

Just wondering why people are noticing RBE when the 3-chip 1-chip (3 laser) design is supposed to take care of this. Is it because of some fundamental principle behind the DLP technology that someone will notice RBE no matter what?


----------



## bdht

avsscientist said:


> Just wondering why people are noticing RBE when the 3-chip design is supposed to take care of this. Is it because of some fundamental principle behind the DLP technology that someone will notice RBE no matter what?


it's not 3chip it's single chip with sequential color, just with 3 separate light sources instead of a color wheel. It's not the three separate diodes that eliminate RBE though, it's the frequency of the sequential color, if people are seeing RBE on this projector then the lasers arent cycling fast enough.


----------



## avsenthusiast

bdht said:


> it's not 3chip it's single chip with sequential color, just with 3 separate light sources instead of a color wheel. It's not the three separate diodes that eliminate RBE though, it's the frequency of the sequential color, if people are seeing RBE on this projector then the lasers arent cycling fast enough.


Yes, you're right, distracted while at work, so I typed "3 chip" instead of "triple-laser" 

Is cycling rate the only possible reason? Has anyone come across literature / tests showing that beyond a specific rate, then RBE will be gone for ALL human eyes?


----------



## bdht

avsscientist said:


> Is cycling rate the only possible reason? Has anyone come across literature / tests showing that beyond a specific rate, then RBE will be gone for ALL human eyes?


Yes, cycling is the only possible reason. And yes, the United States Air Force determined approximately 18x or 8-900hz per color alleviates color separation artifacts. The original rgb solid state projectors from ~2008-2010 were predominately used in simulators. Though not necessarily all eyes, but the color separation "trails" are drastically shorter if one is able to see them. The USAF studies also showed that pilots were not only able to detect a 1ms frame flash of an aircraft but be able to identify the aircraft.


----------



## Aztar35

1nquisitive said:


> Epson LS500 Setup image. Image quality wise, the Samsung blows the Epson into oblivion.


Incredible, was my first impression when I saw the Samsung LSP9T in person. I thought to myself, "are you kidding me." It had such a "wow" factor. I'm coming from having three chip too, Lcos and a DLP, and I immediately appreciated the line precision/no convergence artifacts of the image, the excellent motion, and bright, wide color; and the optics and clarity from inches away from the screen were just uncanny. Dynamic black may be auto-activating at certain low ADL. I didn't have tools to measure a black screen.

As far as RBE, I did note in my review of a pre-production model that I saw RBE but it was on a "test" image. If you switch from dynamic mode to any of the less bright modes, they were not as prevalent.


----------



## 1nquisitive

Aztar35 said:


> Incredible, was my first impression when I saw the Samsung LSP9T in person. I thought to myself, "are you kidding me." It had such a "wow" factor. I'm coming from having three chip too, Lcos and a DLP, and I immediately appreciated the line precision/no convergence artifacts of the image, the excellent motion, and bright, wide color; and the optics and clarity from inches away from the screen were just uncanny. Dynamic black may be auto-activating at certain low ADL. I didn't have tools to measure a black screen.
> 
> As far as RBE, I did note in my review of a pre-production model that I saw RBE but it was on a "test" image. If you switch from dynamic mode to any of the less bright modes, they were not as prevalent.


Yeah, man. I don't have the seasoned technical vocabulary to properly describe it, but suffice to say it absolutely floored me. Just . . . the RBE . . . (*shakes fist at sky)*


----------



## Mikenificent1

Aztar35 said:


> Incredible, was my first impression when I saw the Samsung LSP9T in person. I thought to myself, "are you kidding me." It had such a "wow" factor. I'm coming from having three chip too, Lcos and a DLP, and I immediately appreciated the line precision/no convergence artifacts of the image, the excellent motion, and bright, wide color; and the optics and clarity from inches away from the screen were just uncanny. Dynamic black may be auto-activating at certain low ADL. I didn't have tools to measure a black screen.
> 
> As far as RBE, I did note in my review of a pre-production model that I saw RBE but it was on a "test" image. If you switch from dynamic mode to any of the less bright modes, they were not as prevalent.


I believe you said the blacks are better on your UHZ65; by how much?


----------



## Aztar35

Mikenificent1 said:


> I believe you said the blacks are better on your UHZ65; by how much?


The native contrast actually looked better on the LSP9T but dynamic contrast is visibly better on the UHZ65. I couldn't measure the Samsung because my other computer, which had the software, was temporarily down that day. I previously measured my UHZ65 at a little over 20,000:1 in DB 2.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Mikenificent1 said:


> That’s the vibe I was getting from you guys, that was the reasoning. You’re right. if you read what I previously wrote, I did not deny you would get “better” black levels, but that is at the expense of white levels and pop. You’re not getting better black levels not just because of the directionality of the screen, it’s also because of the actual black color of the substrate. That‘s what dims the picture. *They try and make up for that with a lot of added gain.* *They add gain by adding tiny glass or similar particles to the coating. Those tiny particles light up unevenly in certain spots and actually glow in bright white light, those are “sparklies”. The lenticular lenses and the gain coatings all add visible texture to the screen. The same way they control directionality of ambient light, also can affect the uniformity of the light being reflected back to the viewer.
> 
> ‘If you’re sitting 15 ft away or more,* it’s probably a moot point, but then, so would 4k. Also, like a myriad of other things, some people are not sensitive to it or they accept the trade offs.
> 
> These deficiencies apply to any projector not just UST. Like I said, in a living room, it’s a worthwhile trade off, but in a theater, where ambient light is not an issue, you wouldn’t trade off the degraded picture quality for ambient light rejection, and the light pollution is easily mitigated with black velvet which would even give a better image for a CLR screen as well when watching movies in the dark. Reason being, with velvet on the walls, you can’t really see the walls and the image then appears to just pop and float. This also gives the impression the screen looks larger.
> 
> Do you plan on getting the Samsung?



Guess this Pro has it all wrong and we're all just dummies. It sounds you're talking about normal throw ALR screens not the latest UST CLR screens. Two different animals with the latter having none of your *bold inaccuracies. *But I'm clearly just an amateur...what do I know ;-)

_"Glitter and smooth effect of the image:

The particular structure of the screen (Opal model with lines) and the gain less than 1 do not result in any glitter effect. This screen is designed to capture light, not amplify it.

It accumulates the good points when it comes to analyzing the smoothness of the image: it is perfect, with no noticeable lineage effect in the image, even at short distance ...SNIP...
In conclusion, for the technical verdict part, it is flawless on all the evaluation criteria."_

On blacks and comparing it to white screens:

_"You just have to see the density of blacks that you get with this screen in a non-dedicated room to be convinced of its interest. But what I particularly like is the smoothness and uniformity of its image. We arrive at a quality equivalent to the best white screens"_

Hotspots:

_"For the hot spot, you can look for it, there isn't any at all. A faultless therefore for Vividstorm. "_




Test écran technique Vividstorm : l’avis de Grégory – – Le Blog de PHC –


----------



## Larry J

akin4851 said:


> I an currently debating between this and the Optoma UHZ65. Since you've had both, which would you say has the best picture quality?


I like both and each has some benefits over the other. Both are bright, sometimes I think one is brighter and then I think its the other. I like the colors better on the Samsung, they just seem to have more depth and just more colorful for whatever reason, which usually triggers a debate. The Optoma has a more aggressive dynamic black so at times the black levels appear to be better, which for me is usually on some HDR. The Samsung doesn't appear to use their dynamic black on HDR but do on SDR. Yet, overall I have no problem with the black levels on the Samsung being its DLP. Ths Samsung is some sharper, it's a very sharp PJ. The Samsung has a very clean looking picture, so over all I say the Samsung. 

But if you really don't care if is a UST or not, and don't want to spend the extra money the Optoma is nice. The Samsung is quieter mostly because it doesn't have a color wheel. It's not that I can hear the wheel in just normal viewing, you can when do anything that changes the speed of color wheel. Like going from HD to 4k, or HDR to SDR, 24hz to 60hz, etc. 



Mikenificent1 said:


> How can this be? The two guys on here who are clearly amateurs say otherwise! Don’t you know that the light “pollution” on the ceiling is more important than the image on the screen itself??? One of them even said you would see the picture on the ceiling if you didn’t use a “UST” screen. (sarcasm)
> 
> On a more serious note, how do you like the black levels? Are you getting close to 2800 lumens?


I answered the black level question, or kind of in the other reply. Regarding the screen debate, I realize most wouldn't actually wouldn't recommend the ST100 or 130 for UST. Yet, the 130 I have looks great to me and I kind of know what to look for. It's certainly not dim and its also certainly not dimmer than the regular throw Optoma, that I have right here to check it with very quickly. I've had grey type screens and the firehawk by Stewart. Black levels were better depending on which type of PJ was being used. But nowhere near as bright or sharp, not the ones I've seen anyway. I haven't seen a lot of the screens talked about for UST though. 

Stewarts website recommends the SnoMatte 100 or GrayMatte 70 fabrics. I like the white screens myself and its not spraying light all over the place. I do have very dark ceiling but its no different than the Optoma in lighting up the room, regardless of the math. I haven't done much with checking the lumens, but did put the meter in the center for the screen while pointing it at the Samsung but forgot the number. Its got good brightness though. If you want me to check the brightness, just let me know if you want just the center of the screen or all over the screen.


----------



## Mikenificent1

Casey_Bryson said:


> But I'm clearly just an amateur...what do I know ;-)


^something you said that actually makes sense.

This is the vividstorm. That looks “perfect” to you?? Only someone with a name that rhymes with boron would say or believe that. On top of that, the ambient light rejection is pitiful for a living room environment (i.e. one with windows and sunlight). I never heard of the vividstorm until this thread that is supposed to be about the Samsung. I knew it would look subpar because I know how all these screens are made. Lo and behold I find an image of the screen. The proof is in the pudding. You want something that looks like rear projection screens from the 80’s, that’s your choice:








This would have come in handy a few months ago when there was a TP shortage. The motorized tensioned frame is amazing. That’s it though.


----------



## Mikenificent1

Larry J said:


> I like both and each has some benefits over the other. Both are bright, sometimes I think one is brighter and then I think its the other. I like the colors better on the Samsung, they just seem to have more depth and just more colorful for whatever reason, which usually triggers a debate. The Optoma has a more aggressive dynamic black so at times the black levels appear to be better, which for me is usually on some HDR. The Samsung doesn't appear to use their dynamic black on HDR but do on SDR. Yet, overall I have no problem with the black levels on the Samsung being its DLP. Ths Samsung is some sharper, it's a very sharp PJ. The Samsung has a very clean looking picture, so over all I say the Samsung.
> 
> But if you really don't care if is a UST or not, and don't want to spend the extra money the Optoma is nice. The Samsung is quieter mostly because it doesn't have a color wheel. It's not that I can hear the wheel in just normal viewing, you can when do anything that changes the speed of color wheel. Like going from HD to 4k, or HDR to SDR, 24hz to 60hz, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> I answered the black level question, or kind of in the other reply. Regarding the screen debate, I realize most wouldn't actually wouldn't recommend the ST100 or 130 for UST. Yet, the 130 I have looks great to me and I kind of know what to look for. It's certainly not dim and its also certainly not dimmer than the regular throw Optoma, that I have right here to check it with very quickly. I've had grey type screens and the firehawk by Stewart. Black levels were better depending on which type of PJ was being used. But nowhere near as bright or sharp, not the ones I've seen anyway. I haven't seen a lot of the screens talked about for UST though.
> 
> Stewarts website recommends the SnoMatte 100 or GrayMatte 70 fabrics. I like the white screens myself and its not spraying light all over the place. I do have very dark ceiling but its no different than the Optoma in lighting up the room, regardless of the math. I haven't done much with checking the lumens, but did put the meter in the center for the screen while pointing it at the Samsung but forgot the number. Its got good brightness though. If you want me to check the brightness, just let me know if you want just the center of the screen or all over the screen.


Excellent write up. Very informative and helpful! Thank you.


----------



## Mikenificent1

Aztar35 said:


> The native contrast actually looked better on the LSP9T but dynamic contrast is visibly better on the UHZ65. I couldn't measure the Samsung because my other computer, which had the software, was temporarily down that day. I previously measured my UHZ65 at a little over 20,000:1 in DB 2.


That sounds promising. Hopefully they can tweak the laser dimming with a firmware update and surpass the dynamic contrast then.

Would you be able to live with the Samsung over the Optoma as is?

Also, if you can’t enable or disable the dynamic black on the Samsung, how are you determining the native contrast? Published specs or you can see the difference some how?


----------



## Rpmartinez

Has anyone compared their Samsung against the LGHU85L?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## newtophoto

Larry J said:


> I like both and each has some benefits over the other. Both are bright, sometimes I think one is brighter and then I think its the other. I like the colors better on the Samsung, they just seem to have more depth and just more colorful for whatever reason, which usually triggers a debate. The Optoma has a more aggressive dynamic black so at times the black levels appear to be better, which for me is usually on some HDR. The Samsung doesn't appear to use their dynamic black on HDR but do on SDR. Yet, overall I have no problem with the black levels on the Samsung being its DLP. Ths Samsung is some sharper, it's a very sharp PJ. The Samsung has a very clean looking picture, so over all I say the Samsung.
> 
> But if you really don't care if is a UST or not, and don't want to spend the extra money the Optoma is nice. The Samsung is quieter mostly because it doesn't have a color wheel. It's not that I can hear the wheel in just normal viewing, you can when do anything that changes the speed of color wheel. Like going from HD to 4k, or HDR to SDR, 24hz to 60hz, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> I answered the black level question, or kind of in the other reply. Regarding the screen debate, I realize most wouldn't actually wouldn't recommend the ST100 or 130 for UST. Yet, the 130 I have looks great to me and I kind of know what to look for. It's certainly not dim and its also certainly not dimmer than the regular throw Optoma, that I have right here to check it with very quickly. I've had grey type screens and the firehawk by Stewart. Black levels were better depending on which type of PJ was being used. But nowhere near as bright or sharp, not the ones I've seen anyway. I haven't seen a lot of the screens talked about for UST though.
> 
> Stewarts website recommends the SnoMatte 100 or GrayMatte 70 fabrics. I like the white screens myself and its not spraying light all over the place. I do have very dark ceiling but its no different than the Optoma in lighting up the room, regardless of the math. I haven't done much with checking the lumens, but did put the meter in the center for the screen while pointing it at the Samsung but forgot the number. Its got good brightness though. If you want me to check the brightness, just let me know if you want just the center of the screen or all over the screen.


would you recommend the ST100 or 130 with this UST only in a light controlled room?


----------



## Aztar35

Mikenificent1 said:


> That sounds promising. Hopefully they can tweak the laser dimming with a firmware update and surpass the dynamic contrast then.
> 
> *Would you be able to live with the Samsung over the Optoma as is?*
> 
> Also, if you can’t enable or disable the dynamic black on the Samsung, *how are you determining the native contrast*? Published specs or you can see the difference some how?


It would only be the darkest scenes; everything else goes to the Samsung. So, the answer to your first question is yes.

To your second question, I used scenes that disengaged DB effect on the Optoma for comparisons and assumed, without confirming, that it did the same for DB in the Sammy. Also, yes, the spec re: the Samsung's native is 1,500:1 and I measured the Optoma's native at around 1,420:1.


----------



## Larry J

newtophoto said:


> would you recommend the ST100 or 130 with this UST only in a light controlled room?


Yes, I think so. Unless you totally understand that the situation. I guess if you could you can mostly control the light and also watch a lot at night. It's just like others say, a white screen loses contrast fast with external light. I catch watch it and see what's going on for really bright video, with a reasonable amount of light coming it. But watch a dark movie or scene it's totally different. But really, if you are trying to watch with lots of light and want to have a overall good experience watching in the light, you should look for another screen. That would be true with just about any PJ, not just the Samsung. I assume those UST screens actually do that as advertised.


----------



## Mike Garrett

Casey_Bryson said:


> Guess this Pro has it all wrong and we're all just dummies. It sounds you're talking about normal throw ALR screens not the latest UST CLR screens. Two different animals with the latter having none of your *bold inaccuracies. *But I'm clearly just an amateur...what do I know ;-)
> 
> _"Glitter and smooth effect of the image:
> 
> The particular structure of the screen (Opal model with lines) and the gain less than 1 do not result in any glitter effect. This screen is designed to capture light, not amplify it.
> 
> It accumulates the good points when it comes to analyzing the smoothness of the image: it is perfect, with no noticeable lineage effect in the image, even at short distance ...SNIP...
> In conclusion, for the technical verdict part, it is flawless on all the evaluation criteria."_
> 
> On blacks and comparing it to white screens:
> 
> _"You just have to see the density of blacks that you get with this screen in a non-dedicated room to be convinced of its interest. But what I particularly like is the smoothness and uniformity of its image. We arrive at a quality equivalent to the best white screens"_
> 
> Hotspots:
> 
> _"For the hot spot, you can look for it, there isn't any at all. A faultless therefore for Vividstorm. "_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test écran technique Vividstorm : l’avis de Grégory – – Le Blog de PHC –


So you think a gray based screen with metallic particles is not going to have any artifacts? Sorry, but that review is all fluff. I am not saying the image on that screen does not look good, just saying words like flawless and quality equivalent to the best white screens, that is fluff.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Mike Garrett said:


> So you think a gray based screen with metallic particles is not going to have any artifacts? Sorry, but that review is all fluff. I am not saying the image on that screen does not look good, just saying words like flawless and quality equivalent to the best white screens, that is fluff.


Is that because you've had said screens and have done extensive testing? Curious where you're coming from and what you're basing it off of. I know the author of that article, Gregory Kraine has. Theory and specs only go so far.


----------



## Aztar35

Casey_Bryson said:


> Is that because you've had said screens and have done extensive testing? Curious where you're coming from and what you're basing it off of. I know the author of that article, Gregory Kraine has. Theory and specs only go so far.


Hi, Casey. I don't think we can really fault Mike though. Ambient light reflecting screens did usually accomplish their objective with at least some consequences. I haven't seen this screen and don't know how it actually looks as a UST screen. But I have tested different screens. My preference, in a light-controlled room, is any of the Stewart white screens. Now with this projector, well I tried a Stewart Cima and it looked great but this projector is very bright so do research to make sure it's fine on the eyes.


----------



## Mike Garrett

Casey_Bryson said:


> Is that because you've had said screens and have done extensive testing? Curious where you're coming from and what you're basing it off of. I know the author of that article, Gregory Kraine has. Theory and specs only go so far.


I have never seen that screen, but have seen 100's of screens. Have never seen an ALR screen that did not have artifacts. You can't add much gain to a screen without adding artifacts. As for Kraine's reviews, I have seen many of them. Have seen or owned products that he has reviewed. So I knew exactly how some of the products he has reviewed performed. Question, have you ever seen one of his reviews, where he had any complaints about a product? Everything is always great. ALR screen with the fewest artifacts I have seen is Stewart's HALR.


----------



## avsenthusiast

bdht said:


> Yes, cycling is the only possible reason.


In this case, has there ever been a case where a manufacturer released a firmware upgrade somehow to reduce or eliminate RBE? I recall reading some claims like this, but without a measurement tool I wonder how does one evaluate something like this?


----------



## easystar

Well now I’ve got stuff to figure out. Mine arrives tomorrow. I was all ready to get a fixed ALR UST screen but seems consensus here is not to if it’s in a totally light controlled room. In my case it is. I’m in process of painting the room dark gray/black. It’s a basement so no windows. 

I do have the Vividstorm and love it in the garage where I use it. Obviously not light controlled. It’s just ok in the daytime but stunning at night. Of course I have no frame of reference as the Vividstorm/Vava are my first experience with projection.

I think I’ll move the Vividstorm into the basement and try to get some samples of the Studiotek material to help me decide. Either way the Vividstorm is a keeper. I love that I can move it around.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## bdht

avsscientist said:


> In this case, has there ever been a case where a manufacturer released a firmware upgrade somehow to reduce or eliminate RBE? I recall reading some claims like this, but without a measurement tool I wonder how does one evaluate something like this?


idk maybe, it would be more of a technological limitation to the type of diode than a processing issue though.

you would use an oscilloscope


----------



## Mike Garrett

Aztar35 said:


> Hi, Casey. I don't think we can really fault Mike though. Ambient light reflecting screens did usually accomplish their objective with at least some consequences. I haven't seen this screen and don't know how it actually looks as a UST screen. But I have tested different screens. My preference, in a light-controlled room, is any of the Stewart white screens. Now with this projector, well I tried a Stewart Cima and it looked great but this projector is very bright so do research to make sure it's fine on the eyes.


Yes, it there was no trade off to getting an image that looks good with ambient light, almost no one would have a white screen. Because if there was no trade off in image quality, it would not make sense to own a white screen.


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## 1nquisitive

avsscientist said:


> In this case, has there ever been a case where a manufacturer released a firmware upgrade somehow to reduce or eliminate RBE? I recall reading some claims like this, but without a measurement tool I wonder how does one evaluate something like this?


I'm also very interested in knowing the same.


----------



## Aztar35

avsscientist said:


> In this case, has there ever been a case where a manufacturer released a firmware upgrade somehow to reduce or eliminate RBE? I recall reading some claims like this, but without a measurement tool I wonder how does one evaluate something like this?





1nquisitive said:


> I'm also very interested in knowing the same.


I recall reading here that when the BenQ XPR LED single chip DLP series was released, there were complaints of RBE and that firmware remedied the problem by increasing the cycling speed. I haven't confirmed that it all happened that way, however. But on the 9060, RBE was never an issue. Also, when I had the Optoma UHZ65 with firmware version C11, I began seeing RBE on certain content. On the same model projector with firmware v. C17, I hardly see RBE; but I'll qualify that statement with saying the calibration settings I'm using now are different so that can have something to do with it too.

I think the best thing to do is to have your dealer or yourself reach out to someone at Samsung to see if there is any intention of releasing FW to improve laser color cycling speed. I don't know; I mean this projector was just released but if there are people with these concerns, then maybe they would do it if it can be done. Then there's also the question of whether an update can be done remotely or would one have to send the projector out to have it performed.


----------



## Bill97Z

easystar said:


> Well now I’ve got stuff to figure out. Mine arrives tomorrow. I was all ready to get a fixed ALR UST screen but seems consensus here is not to if it’s in a totally light controlled room. In my case it is. I’m in process of painting the room dark gray/black. It’s a basement so no windows.
> 
> I do have the Vividstorm and love it in the garage where I use it. Obviously not light controlled. It’s just ok in the daytime but stunning at night. Of course I have no frame of reference as the Vividstorm/Vava are my first experience with projection.
> 
> I think I’ll move the Vividstorm into the basement and try to get some samples of the Studiotek material to help me decide. Either way the Vividstorm is a keeper. I love that I can move it around.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I've been experimenting with my VAVA in different rooms projecting on the wall and on different screen samples I have acquired. My observation is that the image looks better on a CLR screen in almost all lighting conditions. Even in a dark room the CLR material it seems to "pop" the colors a little more and keep brightness and contrast under control. The image almost seems too bright on a white screen gain 1 at the expense of contrast. No bad, but different, depends on what you are looking for. Also, the CLR screen greatly reduces light reflections on the ceiling. You may want to play around before you decide. I am very interested in how you feel the Samsung compares to the VAVA at now greater than 3X the price!


----------



## Aztar35

Mike Garrett said:


> Yes, it there was no trade off to getting an image that looks good with ambient light, almost no one would have a white screen. Because if there was no trade off in image quality, *it would not make sense to own a white screen.*


You're obviously in complete control on that point. I agree.


----------



## Aztar35

Bill97Z said:


> I've been experimenting with my VAVA in different rooms projecting on the wall and on different screen samples I have acquired. My observation is that the image looks better on a CLR screen in almost all lighting conditions. Even in a dark room the CLR material it seems to "pop" the colors a little more and keep brightness and contrast under control. The image almost seems too bright on a white screen gain 1 at the expense of contrast. No bad, but different, depends on what you are looking for. Also, the CLR screen greatly reduces light reflections on the ceiling. You may want to play around before you decide. *I am very interested in how you feel the Samsung compares to the VAVA at now greater than 3X the price!*


A VAVA was reviewed by S&V and found to have c. 750:1 native contrast. This Samsung has 1,500:1 native (before dynamic black kicks in) and the big deal with this is its bright wide colors. It will easily surpass most any other HT PJ in its color-brightness/color-width capability. It also does excellent tone mapping, has the counterpart of Dolby Vision which is called HDR10+. I have not seen the VAVA in person, however, but I have seen this Samsung on a white screen, and it was quite an experience! For reference, this is not the first and only projector I've ever demo'd.


----------



## Syed117

So much to dissect here. I have a white screen. Complete light control. Not sure what to expect after reading everything here.

Monday is the day.

Setup is almost ready. 


















Sent from my SM-F916U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Bill97Z

Aztar35 said:


> A VAVA was reviewed by S&V and found to have c. 750:1 native contrast. This Samsung has 1,500:1 native (before dynamic black kicks in) and the big deal with this is its bright wide colors. It will easily surpass most any other HT PJ in its color-brightness/color-width capability. It also does excellent tone mapping, has the counterpart of Dolby Vision which is called HDR10+. I have not seen the VAVA in person, however, but I have seen this Samsung on a white screen, and it was quite an experience! For reference, this is not the first and only projector I've ever demo'd.


Thanks for the summary and yes it's better on paper and probably a better image all around. I am looking for real world observations / opinions and if the difference is worth $4500 over the VAVA. I think the VAVA is great once the settings are right, and I am pretty picky. I have no complaints but I've only seen comparisons of image quality compared to other projectors on youtube videos, and even the comparison with the LG UST showed it a little brighter and a little better color accuracy, but prob not worth the price difference IMO.


----------



## Bill97Z

Your setup looks great!

I think your biggest issue (which may not bother you) is going to be reflection onto the ceiling.



Syed117 said:


> So much to dissect here. I have a white screen. Complete light control. Not sure what to expect after reading everything here.
> 
> Monday is the day.
> 
> Setup is almost ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-F916U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Syed117

Bill97Z said:


> Your setup looks great!
> 
> I think your biggest issue (which may not bother you) is going to be reflection onto the ceiling.


Thanks!

Yeah, I made a mistake by not painting the ceiling when we first moved in. Now looking for some kind of matte black or gray adhesive backed vinyl or other possible solution to at least cover some part of the ceiling right above the screen. Since it's so close I imagine it might be an issue. Will see how I feel when the projector arrives, but want to plan ahead in case I need to do it.


----------



## MJ DOOM

Syed117 said:


> Thanks!
> 
> Yeah, I made a mistake by not painting the ceiling when we first moved in. Now looking for some kind of matte black or gray adhesive backed vinyl or other possible solution to at least cover some part of the ceiling right above the screen. Since it's so close I imagine it might be an issue. Will see how I feel when the projector arrives, but want to plan ahead in case I need to do it.








Amazon.com: Self Adhesive Velvet Flock Backing Paper Liner for Jewelry Drawer Craft Fabric Peel and Stick Black, Soft Velvet Liner for Drawer DIY 17.7" x 117"


Shop WADDLLCOR at the Amazon Arts, Crafts & Sewing store. Free Shipping on eligible items. Save on everyday low prices.



www.amazon.com


----------



## Syed117

MJ DOOM said:


> Amazon.com: Self Adhesive Velvet Flock Backing Paper Liner for Jewelry Drawer Craft Fabric Peel and Stick Black, Soft Velvet Liner for Drawer DIY 17.7" x 117"
> 
> 
> Shop WADDLLCOR at the Amazon Arts, Crafts & Sewing store. Free Shipping on eligible items. Save on everyday low prices.
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com


Thanks. Was just looking at stuff like this. I guess regular matte black wallpaper might work as well. Seems like applying it to the ceiling will be annoying.

Oh well. Have to do something I guess.

How far back from the top of the screen should I go with black material?

Edit : Went ahead and ordered the black velvet stuff with the adhesive back. Let's see how it goes.


----------



## bdht

Aztar35 said:


> I recall reading here that when the BenQ XPR LED single chip DLP series was released, there were complaints of RBE and that firmware remedied the problem by increasing the cycling speed. I haven't confirmed that it all happened that way, however. But on the 9060, RBE was never an issue. Also, when I had the Optoma UHZ65 with firmware version C11, I began seeing RBE on certain content. On the same model projector with firmware v. C17, I hardly see RBE


you know what, it might not be a limitation of the lasers at all and might have to do with XPR, in which case it could be adjusted in the firmware

does the lsp9t have an xpr-off mode?


----------



## Mike Garrett

Bill97Z said:


> Thanks for the summary and yes it's better on paper and probably a better image all around. I am looking for real world observations / opinions and if the difference is worth $4500 over the VAVA. I think the VAVA is great once the settings are right, and I am pretty picky. I have no complaints but I've only seen comparisons of image quality compared to other projectors on youtube videos, and even the comparison with the LG UST showed it a little brighter and a little better color accuracy, but prob not worth the price difference IMO.


You can't use a random video to compare projector image quality.


----------



## Aztar35

bdht said:


> you know what, it might not be a limitation of the lasers at all and might have to do with XPR, in which case it could be adjusted in the firmware
> 
> does the lsp9t have an xpr-off mode?


I don't think it's the actuation, but it could be that it's timed a certain way.

I didn't see an XPR off mode on the one I tried.


----------



## Aztar35

Mike Garrett said:


> You can't use a random video to compare projector image quality.


Are you thinking of getting this one, Mike? I hope so. I know you were tinkering with the idea of getting a triple laser. 

I think you still have the RS3000, right? I've seen both this Samsung and a calibrated RS3000. I thought its images looked better than the RS3000's in all but the very dark and darkest scenes. I know that sounds general. Okay, so what I focused on and really liked were the Samsung's motion, bright wide color, precise lines, HDR10+, and lack of convergence artifacts, not to mention triple!!! lasers. HDR 10+ on this Samsung made for a very immersive experience, by the way.

I know you're big on contrast and my experience in seeing some DLPs and JVCs is that JVC contrast numbers begin to take a dive above 2% ADL. But I suppose if you watch a lot of dark content, you may want to stick with your RS3000.


----------



## Aztar35

When I said JVC contrast numbers, it was in the context of my JVC NX7 that rapidly dropped when I measured at above 2% ADL and more importantly meant the RS3000 as shown by this chart.
.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

Mike Garrett said:


> I have never seen that screen, but have seen 100's of screens. Have never seen an ALR screen that did not have artifacts. *You can't add much gain to a screen without adding artifacts.* As for Kraine's reviews, I have seen many of them. Have seen or owned products that he has reviewed. So I knew exactly how some of the products he has reviewed performed. *Question, have you ever seen one of his reviews, where he had any complaints about a product?* Everything is always great. ALR screen with the fewest artifacts I have seen is Stewart's HALR.


I was asking you about your experience with UST CLR screens, AGAIN not long throw ALR--UST's use a completely different method of mitigating ambient light. UST CLR's look almost white one direction and almost black the other way--you know what right??? I'm starting to wonder which is why I asked you if you had any practical experience with them. AGAIN these screens typically *aren't designed to add gain* and don't have those associated artifacts so your point is rather moot at best and at worst....I'll let others fill in that blank.



































Here is the same XY PET Crystal Screen in the pics above with my Fengmi 4K Cinema throwing a white test image at 6 feet (much closer than most view 4K, I prefer around 8 feet), 3 feet, and 2 inches! Only at 2 inches do you start to see the lenticular nature of the screen. In person the pixel structure is maintained. There is a very minute amount of speckle viewable under 6 feet, but not at anywhere close to normal viewing distances. _NOTE: The white is much brighter than pictured. _

*6 Feet Away*









*3 Feet Away*









*2 Inches Away (EDIT: Open attachment at bottom of post for a more accurate view)*











Don't let your bias and disdain for Gregory Kraine and his technical tests/reviews from – Le Blog de PHC – – Actualités et tests en Home Cinema et Hifi get in the way. Clearly you have not read his reviews in depth. So "..have I seen one?" Really??? LOL Each one is critical and at the end he sums up his likes and dislikes after putting the subject of the reviews through a round of technical tests. Here is an example of a negative review: for the latest LG HU85LA UST Test LG HU85LA : l’avis de Grégory – – Le Blog de PHC –


----------



## Aztar35

Casey_Bryson said:


> Here is the same XY PET Crystal Screen in the pics above with my Fengmi 4K Cinema throwing a white test image at 6 feet (much closer than most view 4K, I prefer around 8 feet), 3 feet, and 2 inches! Only at 2 inches do you start to see the lenticular nature of the screen. In person the pixel structure is maintained. There is a very minute amount of speckle viewable under 6 feet, but not at anywhere close to normal viewing distances. _NOTE: The white is much brighter than pictured. _


Those look pretty awesome!


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## Casey_Bryson

Mikenificent1 said:


> ^something you said that actually makes sense.
> 
> This is the vividstorm. That looks “perfect” to you?? Only someone with a name that rhymes with boron would say or believe that. SNIP....


Nice argument lol! Clearly you have "Trumped" mine by calling me names and not realizing that my name doesn't rhyme with boron or moron for that matter LOL I'm not even going to address the pic you posted because it is the same quality.


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## 3sprit

Mike Garrett said:


> Question, have you ever seen one of his reviews, where he had any complaints about a product?





Test JmGO S3 : l’avis de Grégory. – – Le Blog de PHC –




Test Xiaomi Mi 4K laser projector version française : l’avis de Grégory. – – Le Blog de PHC –


----------



## survivor

Anyone have a side-by-side comparison with the LG HU85LA?


----------



## sudhanese2003

Got the lsp9t. For now, projecting on a wall and the colors do pop out. Looks like Google assistant will be added as a later update. Smart things app makes it real easy. Sound is pretty enveloping especially for a medium size room


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## donbraxton

Got Mine today, No Screen yet. I am deciding between UST ALR and Regular screen. I wanted to check the picture size it can throw without losing focus. 

I was able to throw 151" diagonal (16:9) on wall without any distortion. 
Pics are out of the box, no changes in settings. I just adjusted the focus.



















Scope










HDR











As others commented,

Colors are awesome.
Picture is Sharp & Bright ( I am sure it will be more bright with right screen)
Good Sound for small/medium room size.


----------



## Aztar35

Bill97Z said:


> Thanks for the summary and yes it's better on paper and probably a better image all around. I am looking for real world observations / opinions and if the difference is worth $4500 over the VAVA. I think the VAVA is great once the settings are right, and I am pretty picky. I have no complaints but I've only seen comparisons of image quality compared to other projectors on youtube videos, and even the comparison with the LG UST showed it a little brighter and a little better color accuracy, but prob not worth the price difference IMO.





Mike Garrett said:


> You can't use a random video to compare projector image quality.


I understood Bill to mean he's seen videos where people actually were viewing A/B and discussing their observations and that he wanted more real world observations like that from members here.


----------



## Aztar35

donbraxton said:


> Got Mine today, No Screen yet.
> 
> I was able to throw 151" diagonal (16:9) on wall without any distortion.
> 
> 
> View attachment 3055390
> 
> 
> As others commented,
> 
> Colors are awesome.
> Picture is Sharp & Bright ( I am sure it will be more bright with right screen)


It's nice to see, relatively speaking, so many people buying these in the short time it was released. It really is an incredible value! I don't own one and so I have no horse in the race, but I have to say that undoubtedly it puts out one of the best projected images I've ever seen.

Congratulations!


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## Aztar35

sudhanese2003 said:


> Got the lsp9t. For now, projecting on a wall and the colors do pop out. Looks like Google assistant will be added as a later update. Smart things app makes it real easy. Sound is pretty enveloping especially for a medium size room
> View attachment 3055386


Congrats! Nice to see people getting these. I know that magenta cast in your photo isn't there when you view the projector images in person.

When I had the pre-production LSP9T, I took a photo with my phone off a Cima screen and the pic showed the same heavy magenta cast that wasn't there at all in person. Here's what that photo looks like. In person, the colors, motion, and detail were all mind-boggling good, but next time I'll calibrate the phone camera somehow to counter-act that magenta cast that's appearing in these photos.


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## Huskeytango

1nquisitive said:


> Some pics below. We fudged the screen slightly when we moved it. The goofy peak on the upper middle edge is from the screen, not the projector. Movie images are from a 4k HDR player, game images from PS4 Pro.
> 
> Just as a size comparison:
> View attachment 3054345
> 
> 
> 
> Just after turning it on:
> View attachment 3054346
> 
> 
> PS4 Pro connection:
> View attachment 3054356
> 
> 
> Some Overwatch:
> View attachment 3054348
> 
> 
> Valerian (lights off. Sorry, didn't adjust my phone camera well on this one).
> View attachment 3054350
> 
> 
> Valerian (lights on)
> View attachment 3054351
> 
> 
> (Valerian, lights off)
> View attachment 3054352
> 
> 
> Resident Evil 7 (this is the kind of scene where the RBE is just not acceptable and ruins the experience).
> View attachment 3054353
> 
> 
> Also had an Epson LS500 over the weekend:
> View attachment 3054354
> 
> 
> Epson LS500 Setup image. Image quality wise, the Samsung blows the Epson into oblivion.
> View attachment 3054355


this looks amazing. What sceeen are you using with Samsung here? How was overwatch and input lag? Thanks!


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## cec68

Awesome, more posts and pics from members with their new projectors. Keep em coming!! As for all the screen discussion, maybe take it to the screen section of the forum. THANKS!!! Use whatever screen YOU like, that works for your setting and environment. It's your eyes that are going to be watching it. Who cares if someone thinks this ALR, or UST, or Studio Tek blah blah blah. Get what you like and works best for YOU!!


----------



## Larry J

I took a couple of pictures even though I don't think must of doing that overall, far as trying to compare with whatever. But some seem to like them. They look not all that far off on my monitor depending on what settings I use of course. Took it with a Sony nexus 4k camera with a set 50mm lens, hand held. So not a lot of time put into it. Colors are still off some and focus not quite as sharp.


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## easystar

Samsung LSP9 vs VAVA initial impressions.

Got the 9T today. Have been using a VAVA paired with a 120” Vividstorm ALR UST screen for the past 3 weeks in a non light controlled environment (my garage). I have no prior experience with any sort of projection.

I moved the screen into my basement, which is light controlled. The walls and ceiling still need painting with dark colors to make it a bat cave.

Set up the Samsung quickly and then moved it to the right half of screen. The Vava to the left half after its own quick setup.

Aesthetics: handsdown the VAVA is better looking. Purely subjective. Personally I prefer clean lines and angles vs curviness. I also really like how the Optoma P1/2 and the LG HU85LA look. 

Both my projectors are white. Like most here, I’d prefer black but the black VAVA wasn’t on sale on Prime Day and the Samsung only comes in white. The Samsung is also a glossy pearl/metallic white, which makes it look gray. The VAVA is a clean matte white. If just sitting there on a credenza doing nothing, the VAVA is more appealing. I actually find the Samsung kinda ugly. Again, purely subjective. I also dislike how the Epsons look like their printer designers did them.

I thought the glossiness of the Samsung would be a distraction in operation but it wasn’t a factor. Both projectors glow in the dark and are super visible in operation. 

One major thing: the laser on the VAVA is extremely visible and very bright. That has always bugged me about it. I imagine that’s why Epson puts those big ugly hoods on their projectors. On the Samsung, I was very pleasantly surprised that I cannot see the laser, even without a hood.

The sound on both are good. Didn’t do a critical listen as I will use my basement Atmos system. In the garage where I initially had the VAVA the sound was loud and clean as long as it’s not cranked to max. I typically only had it up to half at most.

Didn’t dive into it much but the Samsung has far more video adjustments. The VAVA has disappointingly few. Perhaps there’s some kind of service menu, I dunno. I’m used to having lots of calibration options with my TVs.

Side by side in a completely dark room on the same screen. Samsung on the right, VAVA on the left. I used the mirror-image on the VAVA. I used out of the box video modes on both with no tweaking. Used movie mode and the vivid mode (Samsung calls it Dynamic, VAVA calls it Colorful). Watched parts of 2 movies Spider-Man into the Spiderverse and Lala Land. I picked them because they are both visually stunning with colors to me. Used both an Oppo 203 and an Apple TV 4K. My AV processor has 2 HDMI outs so they are simultaneously being fed the same signal from the same source.

There is a magenta cast on the Samsung that shows up on camera but not in real life. Strange. I have an iPhone.

I realize photos on a monitor cannot convey what we see in person but it’s something to compare at least. The colors do indeed look better on the Samsung. In my pictures it’s most evident in Spider-Man’s red. The Samsung makes the VAVA’s red look orange in relation. The Samsung also handles blacks and shadow details far better. Emma Stones face has some crushed blacks on the VAVA. 

The onboard apps are no contest. The VAVA requires an external media player, their native apps are unusable. Samsung is well, Samsung. It all works. Not a big deal, use your media streamer of choice and problem solved. I’m an Apple person and was planning to use Apple TV on both. I’m pleasantly surprised the Samsung supports AirPlay so I might be able to get away with not having to get another Apple TV. I haven’t really tested how well it works yet but the onboard Samsung apps are so good it might not be an issue.

Overall the Samsung is superior. But that is expected. It costs 2.5 times as much, has 3 lasers, and whatever special processing mojo Samsung has which logically would be an advantage given their resources and TV experience

Is it far superior? Yes. Is it 2.5 times the cost superior? Well that’s a personal and subjective thing. Am I keeping the Samsung?








Yes I am. The bump in image quality is worth it to me. But I also have a feeling I’d be perfectly happy with the VAVA had I never laid eyes on the 9T. Not to mention several thousand more dollars back in my wallet.


































































Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## driege

easystar said:


> Samsung LSP9 vs VAVA initial impressions.


Wow - thanks for the side-by-side pictures. I didn't expect to get a direct comparison of mirrored images fed from the same source! 


Do you notice the blacks being deeper on the Samsung? One of the things that bugs me about the Vava is that pitch black backgrounds (like outer space) are gray instead of black. I notice the same thing with letter box content. 

What about a difference in brightness? The Vava is pretty bright as is. It's hard to tell from the pictures what to attribute to differences in brightness vs. color.


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## JereyWolf

For the people who have been using the LSP9T with a UST/ALR screen, do you feel that this projector can be a viable living room TV replacement if you only have partial control of ambient light?


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## 3sprit

Larry J said:


> I took a couple of pictures


I apologize but I don't remember what your screen is.


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## 1nquisitive

Huskeytango said:


> this looks amazing. What sceeen are you using with Samsung here? How was overwatch and input lag? Thanks!


The rest of the info you're looking for is on my original post a few days ago; might answer some more questions you have, also. Give it a look, if you have a chance. Link below. But for convenience: Elite 120" CLR, and input lag was noticeable (casual or non-gamers likely to not notice), but didn't really affect gameplay on the PS4 Pro. Input lag might be an issue on PC.









Official Samsung "Premiere" LSP9T Owners Thread


Much credit to Mark Henniger's review that got everyone talking about the new Samsung UST projectors, but we have to scroll past the entire review each time we use that thread :) To catch everyone up, here are some of the biggest details from 26 pages of the review thread. Mark Henninger’s...




www.avsforum.com


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## Mikenificent1

Larry J said:


> I took a couple of pictures even though I don't think must of doing that overall, far as trying to compare with whatever. But some seem to like them. They look not all that far off on my monitor depending on what settings I use of course. Took it with a Sony nexus 4k camera with a set 50mm lens, hand held. So not a lot of time put into it. Colors are still off some and focus not quite as sharp.
> View attachment 3055453
> View attachment 3055454


Holy moly! The bottom pic is OLED like. Is that picture representative of what the black levels look like in actuality?


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## Bill97Z

Thanks for detailed review and best of luck with the Samsung!



easystar said:


> Samsung LSP9 vs VAVA initial impressions.
> 
> Got the 9T today. Have been using a VAVA paired with a 120” Vividstorm ALR UST screen for the past 3 weeks in a non light controlled environment (my garage). I have no prior experience with any sort of projection.
> 
> I moved the screen into my basement, which is light controlled. The walls and ceiling still need painting with dark colors to make it a bat cave.
> 
> Set up the Samsung quickly and then moved it to the right half of screen. The Vava to the left half after its own quick setup.
> 
> Aesthetics: handsdown the VAVA is better looking. Purely subjective. Personally I prefer clean lines and angles vs curviness. I also really like how the Optoma P1/2 and the LG HU85LA look.
> 
> Both my projectors are white. Like most here, I’d prefer black but the black VAVA wasn’t on sale on Prime Day and the Samsung only comes in white. The Samsung is also a glossy pearl/metallic white, which makes it look gray. The VAVA is a clean matte white. If just sitting there on a credenza doing nothing, the VAVA is more appealing. I actually find the Samsung kinda ugly. Again, purely subjective. I also dislike how the Epsons look like their printer designers did them.
> 
> I thought the glossiness of the Samsung would be a distraction in operation but it wasn’t a factor. Both projectors glow in the dark and are super visible in operation.
> 
> One major thing: the laser on the VAVA is extremely visible and very bright. That has always bugged me about it. I imagine that’s why Epson puts those big ugly hoods on their projectors. On the Samsung, I was very pleasantly surprised that I cannot see the laser, even without a hood.
> 
> The sound on both are good. Didn’t do a critical listen as I will use my basement Atmos system. In the garage where I initially had the VAVA the sound was loud and clean as long as it’s not cranked to max. I typically only had it up to half at most.
> 
> Didn’t dive into it much but the Samsung has far more video adjustments. The VAVA has disappointingly few. Perhaps there’s some kind of service menu, I dunno. I’m used to having lots of calibration options with my TVs.
> 
> Side by side in a completely dark room on the same screen. Samsung on the right, VAVA on the left. I used the mirror-image on the VAVA. I used out of the box video modes on both with no tweaking. Used movie mode and the vivid mode (Samsung calls it Dynamic, VAVA calls it Colorful). Watched parts of 2 movies Spider-Man into the Spiderverse and Lala Land. I picked them because they are both visually stunning with colors to me. Used both an Oppo 203 and an Apple TV 4K. My AV processor has 2 HDMI outs so they are simultaneously being fed the same signal from the same source.
> 
> There is a magenta cast on the Samsung that shows up on camera but not in real life. Strange. I have an iPhone.
> 
> I realize photos on a monitor cannot convey what we see in person but it’s something to compare at least. The colors do indeed look better on the Samsung. In my pictures it’s most evident in Spider-Man’s red. The Samsung makes the VAVA’s red look orange in relation. The Samsung also handles blacks and shadow details far better. Emma Stones face has some crushed blacks on the VAVA.
> 
> The onboard apps are no contest. The VAVA requires an external media player, their native apps are unusable. Samsung is well, Samsung. It all works. Not a big deal, use your media streamer of choice and problem solved. I’m an Apple person and was planning to use Apple TV on both. I’m pleasantly surprised the Samsung supports AirPlay so I might be able to get away with not having to get another Apple TV. I haven’t really tested how well it works yet but the onboard Samsung apps are so good it might not be an issue.
> 
> Overall the Samsung is superior. But that is expected. It costs 2.5 times as much, has 3 lasers, and whatever special processing mojo Samsung has which logically would be an advantage given their resources and TV experience
> 
> Is it far superior? Yes. Is it 2.5 times the cost superior? Well that’s a personal and subjective thing. Am I keeping the Samsung?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I am. The bump in image quality is worth it to me. But I also have a feeling I’d be perfectly happy with the VAVA had I never laid eyes on the 9T. Not to mention several thousand more dollars back in my wallet.
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> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Bill97Z

What screen are you using? The blacks on my VAVA look pretty black projecting on a gray wall.









IMG_5745.mov







drive.google.com













FullSizeRender.MOV







drive.google.com









driege said:


> Wow - thanks for the side-by-side pictures. I didn't expect to get a direct comparison of mirrored images fed from the same source!
> 
> 
> Do you notice the blacks being deeper on the Samsung? One of the things that bugs me about the Vava is that pitch black backgrounds (like outer space) are gray instead of black. I notice the same thing with letter box content.
> 
> What about a difference in brightness? The Vava is pretty bright as is. It's hard to tell from the pictures what to attribute to differences in brightness vs. color.


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## easystar

driege said:


> Wow - thanks for the side-by-side pictures. I didn't expect to get a direct comparison of mirrored images fed from the same source!
> 
> 
> Do you notice the blacks being deeper on the Samsung? One of the things that bugs me about the Vava is that pitch black backgrounds (like outer space) are gray instead of black. I notice the same thing with letter box content.
> 
> What about a difference in brightness? The Vava is pretty bright as is. It's hard to tell from the pictures what to attribute to differences in brightness vs. color.


Yes the blacks are MUCH better on the Samsung. Looking at a mostly black scene, the Vava looked noisy and gray in comparison. The Samsung handles shadow detail much better too. Side by side the VAVA's look crushed. 

For brightness, the Samsung is just a touch brighter. I turned the VAVA brightness up to high and it matched it. If I were viewing sequentially vs side-by-side, I would say the brightness was the same even with the VAVA on regular brightness.

Upon looking again, the Samsung does have a magenta tinge out of the box. It's more obvious in photos but now that I'm looking for it, it is very blatant.

Also, the Samsung is MUCH quieter.

Overall, this limited demo showed me what a value the VAVA is.


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## easystar

Any of you guys notice a strong magenta from the 9T out of the box? I think it was mentioned by another person too. If so any success on calibrating it out?


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## bebbsie23

easystar said:


> Any of you guys notice a strong magenta from the 9T out of the box? I think it was mentioned by another person too. If so any success on calibrating it out?


I've certainly noticed a magenta push in 90% of the pics shown so far, although I suspect phone cameras are exacerbating the effect. Hopefully Larry J's pictures (post #147) are more indicative of the what this PJ can display PQ wise  I have no doubt there are enough PQ settings to dial it nicely


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## Aztar35

bebbsie23 said:


> I've certainly noticed a magenta push in 90% of the pics shown so far, although I suspect phone cameras are exacerbating the effect. Hopefully Larry J's pictures (post #147) are more indicative of the what this PJ can display PQ wise  I have no doubt there are enough PQ settings to dial it nicely


There was no magenta cast whatsoever when I viewed the LSP9T in person on a color-neutral screen.


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## Mike Garrett

Aztar35 said:


> Are you thinking of getting this one, Mike? I hope so. I know you were tinkering with the idea of getting a triple laser.
> 
> I think you still have the RS3000, right? I've seen both this Samsung and a calibrated RS3000. I thought its images looked better than the RS3000's in all but the very dark and darkest scenes. I know that sounds general. Okay, so what I focused on and really liked were the Samsung's motion, bright wide color, precise lines, HDR10+, and lack of convergence artifacts, not to mention triple!!! lasers. HDR 10+ on this Samsung made for a very immersive experience, by the way.
> 
> I know you're big on contrast and my experience in seeing some DLPs and JVCs is that JVC contrast numbers begin to take a dive above 2% ADL. But I suppose if you watch a lot of dark content, you may want to stick with your RS3000.


No, will not work in the room where I have my TV or where my wife has her TV. My theater room uses an AT screen. UST would not be able to compete in a black velvet room, against my current projector. Here is behind the screen. What is not shown in the picture is the lower 18" mids that sit at the bottom of each LCR. They are in seperate boxes and have TD18H+ in each of them.


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## bdht

easystar said:


> Any of you guys notice a strong magenta from the 9T out of the box? I think it was mentioned by another person too. If so any success on calibrating it out?





bebbsie23 said:


> I've certainly noticed a magenta push in 90% of the pics shown so far, although I suspect phone cameras are exacerbating the effect. Hopefully Larry J's pictures (post #147) are more indicative of the what this PJ can display PQ wise  I have no doubt there are enough PQ settings to dial it nicely


There should be a white balance or rgb balance setting in the menus. You should be able to adjust by eye with a grayscale ramp. just adjust gains, you shouldnt have to adjust offsets as this light engine typically has very flat grayscale with minimal luminance contouring. Turn red down and maybr turn blue down slightly, its possible if its the same light source as the chiq c8ut that youll lose 1-1500 lumens when calibrating. The green laser isnt as bright as red and blue.

From kraines review of the c8ut. Custom color temperature
R: 14
G: 50
B: 43


----------



## Mike Garrett

Aztar35 said:


> Are you thinking of getting this one, Mike? I hope so. I know you were tinkering with the idea of getting a triple laser.
> 
> I think you still have the RS3000, right? I've seen both this Samsung and a calibrated RS3000. I thought its images looked better than the RS3000's in all but the very dark and darkest scenes. I know that sounds general. Okay, so what I focused on and really liked were the Samsung's motion, bright wide color, precise lines, HDR10+, and lack of convergence artifacts, not to mention triple!!! lasers. HDR 10+ on this Samsung made for a very immersive experience, by the way.
> 
> I know you're big on contrast and my experience in seeing some DLPs and JVCs is that JVC contrast numbers begin to take a dive above 2% ADL. But I suppose if you watch a lot of dark content, you may want to stick with your RS3000.


If you look at a side by side comparison, you will be surprised at how bright the image can be and still show quite an advantage to the JVC. It is a lot higher than 2%. This is because the black floor sets what gamma the projector can handle properly. Kris has demonstrated this in side by side comparisons, many times.


----------



## Mike Garrett

donbraxton said:


> Got Mine today, No Screen yet. I am deciding between UST ALR and Regular screen. I wanted to check the picture size it can throw without losing focus.
> 
> I was able to throw 151" diagonal (16:9) on wall without any distortion.
> Pics are out of the box, no changes in settings. I just adjusted the focus.
> 
> View attachment 3055390
> 
> 
> View attachment 3055391
> 
> 
> Scope
> 
> View attachment 3055388
> 
> 
> HDR
> 
> View attachment 3055392
> 
> 
> 
> As others commented,
> 
> Colors are awesome.
> Picture is Sharp & Bright ( I am sure it will be more bright with right screen)
> Good Sound for small/medium room size.


Colors are way off. The pictures do not look anywhere close to how they should look.


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## bennutt

First a quick video with different lighting.






This is a Grandview DY3 fabric - 120”
I messed up tension in one corner so I will be rebuilding it later. Still don’t have a great plan for center channel position either.

Thought you might want some eye candy, no calibration, straight out of box, Oppo 4K source.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bdht

Mike Garrett said:


> If you look at a side by side comparison, you will be surprised at how bright the image can be and still show quite an advantage to the JVC. It is a lot higher than 2%. This is because the black floor sets what gamma the projector can handle properly. Kris has demonstrated this in side by side comparisons, many times.


no it doesnt, luminance contouring of the spatial light modulator does. hes talking about contouring due to the color wheel, or in the case of this light engine when light source modulation isnt applied to properly show near black information like it does with the sim2 m150 which can leave brightness at default. lcd has massive luminance contouring and its only tons of processing that corrects it which reduces real time bit depth and causes banding in gradients, the native contrast of lcos just hides it.










http://imagesci.ece.cmu.edu/files/paper/2016/HDRProjector_OpEx16.pdf



thats why when we say black levels and contrast are so satisfying with the micos is due to the lack of dithering of 0ire to show near black shades. black is solid and near black shades are clean and accurate.


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## bennutt

Edit!! _Harmony Hub - Has anyone managed to teach the hub anything beyond "power toggle"? Also wondering if there is a comparable Samsung TV or projector model out there that might have the same command set - but live in the Harmony database_

Figured this out myself - adding the 75Q90T Television has a perfectly functioning command set, including direct input choice


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## donbraxton

Mike Garrett said:


> Colors are way off. The pictures do not look anywhere close to how they should look.


It is not that bad in person, it must be the phone. Also, the wall is not white. I am planning to build/buy a AT screen. I wanted to check what size I should buy. I have ordered a lux meter, will measure the lumens @ 151" screen.


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## sudhanese2003

bdht said:


> There should be a white balance or rgb balance setting in the menus. You should be able to adjust by eye with a grayscale ramp. just adjust gains, you shouldnt have to adjust offsets as this light engine typically has very flat grayscale with minimal luminance. Turn red down and maybr turn blue down slightly, its possible if its the same light source as the chiq c8ut that youll lose 1-1500 lumens when calibrating. The green laser isnt as bright as red and blue.
> 
> From kraines review of the c8ut. Custom color temperature
> R: 14
> G: 50
> B: 43


Thanks. I was starting to think about some custom calibration, will get started with these.


----------



## mcollin6

I always look at the letterbox black bars when looking at black levels. It seems like when the lights are out, there is some scatter on the lower black bar during the video. I am curious, did you use any kind of digital fit /alignment for that picture? I wonder what is causing the light to hit the lower black bar and light it up. I wonder if the LSP9T is inside the design throw range for the Grandview, and this is a by product of that.

Any ideas? 


bennutt said:


> First a quick video with different lighting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Grandview DY3 fabric - 120”
> I messed up tension in one corner so I will be rebuilding it later. Still don’t have a great plan for center channel position either.
> 
> Thought you might want some eye candy, no calibration, straight out of box, Oppo 4K source.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bdht

the issue with dmds is they require 1200 steps or 11bit drive to show near black shades due to pulse width modulation drive method, however, a single dmd is driven in 10bits, and factoring in sequential color. modulating the light source(not a dynamic contrast dimming feature) solves the issue, and it wont be an issue for dual dmd zonal either. 3chip dlp is 14bit. The issue is worse with color wheels due to the reduced amount of time to draw shades due to the necessity for the dmd to switch off in between color wheel segments.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

mcollin6 said:


> I always look at the letterbox black bars when looking at black levels. It seems like when the lights are out, there is some scatter on the lower black bar during the video. I am curious, did you use any kind of digital fit /alignment for that picture? I wonder what is causing the light to hit the lower black bar and light it up. I wonder if the LSP9T is inside the design throw range for the Grandview, and this is a by product of that.
> 
> Any ideas?


Looks like a reflection from the center speaker and UST CLR does not mitigate any light from below the screen.


----------



## bennutt

Casey_Bryson said:


> Looks like a reflection from the center speaker and UST CLR does not mitigate any light from below the screen.


You beat me to it.
I need to come up with a better center speaker plan.
Below the projector seems like only option 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mcollin6

New review out today....









Samsung Premiere LSP9T projector review


The next generation of living room projection




www.techradar.com


----------



## bdht

Samsung Premiere LSP9T projector review


The next generation of living room projection




www.techradar.com




"The key point to remember about the LSP9T’s picture niggles "

holy @#$% @ "niggles"
noun: a trifling complaint, dispute, or criticism.
verb: cause slight but persistent annoyance, discomfort, or anxiety.
"the constant downplaying of deficiencies in lcos imaging niggled at the back of his mind"


----------



## Aztar35

mcollin6 said:


> New review out today....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Samsung Premiere LSP9T projector review
> 
> 
> The next generation of living room projection
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.techradar.com


I like these quotes from the review too: 

_"Here, for once, is a projector that actually handles HDR content well – despite that content being designed for TV rather than projection technologies."

"Another exclusive picture feature of the LSP9T is its HDR10+ support. This means it can work with the extra scene-by-scene metadata the HDR10+ format provides, rather than merely the ‘static’ data you get with the industry standard HDR10 format." _

He gave the LSP9T 5 out of 5 stars! Nice. And this might be the only projector that supports Dolby Vision, well in this case it's its equivalent HDR10+.


----------



## Aztar35

bdht said:


> Samsung Premiere LSP9T projector review
> 
> 
> The next generation of living room projection
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.techradar.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "The key point to remember about the LSP9T’s picture niggles "
> 
> holy @#$% @ "niggles"
> noun: a trifling complaint, dispute, or criticism.
> verb: cause slight but persistent annoyance, discomfort, or anxiety.
> "the constant downplaying of deficiencies in lcos imaging niggled at the back of his mind"


Brian, I saw RBE on this in my tests too. It was not as prevalent as in some of the color wheel PJs I've seen, but the fact that I saw it means it's there. In fact, others in this very thread have reported seeing it. 

The LSP9T was just released so I don't know if Samsung will address this right away, assuming hopefully they would address it.


----------



## Aztar35

bennutt said:


> First a quick video with different lighting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Grandview DY3 fabric - 120”
> I messed up tension in one corner so I will be rebuilding it later. Still don’t have a great plan for center channel position either.
> 
> Thought you might want some eye candy, no calibration, straight out of box, Oppo 4K source.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That's a nice set up. But where's the projector?

Never mind, I saw it behind your center channel.


----------



## Aztar35

Mike Garrett said:


> No, will not work in the room where I have my TV or where my wife has her TV. My theater room uses an AT screen. UST would not be able to compete in a black velvet room, against my current projector. Here is behind the screen. What is not shown in the picture is the lower 18" mids that sit at the bottom of each LCR. They are in seperate boxes and have TD18H+ in each of them.
> View attachment 3055571


I think it's really cool that you were considering this had it worked out, of course. You should still get a demo anyway; it's a nice one.

By the way, awesome main speaker setup!


----------



## bdht

Aztar35 said:


> Brian, I saw RBE on this in my tests too. It was not as prevalent as in some of the color wheel PJs I've seen, but the fact that I saw it means it's there. In fact, others in this very thread have reported seeing it.
> 
> The LSP9T was just released so I don't know if Samsung will address this right away, assuming hopefully they would address it.


was there rbe on the ht9060? i couldve sworn i read that ti locked sequential color at 6x for shifting dmds... just not enough draw time to do sequential color and wobulation at 18x


----------



## bennutt

Fixed my screen, all dialed in. Gotta figure out how to get center off floor but good for now.




















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Aztar35

bdht said:


> was there rbe on the ht9060? i couldve sworn i read that ti locked sequential color at 6x for shifting dmds... just not enough draw time to do sequential color and wobulation at 18x


I recall reading here that the 9050, not the 9060, initially was released with slower cycling. It was very difficult to spot RBE on the 9060. My guess is that it cycled at 18x speed.

Recall this projector is much brighter than the HLD Colorspark BenQ.

Personally, I hardly saw any on the LSP9T though. Still, I think it's a shame to have even a hint of RBE on a projector of this caliber. It's like preparing to smile as a result of its gorgeous images but then getting a glove in the face.


----------



## Aztar35

bennutt said:


> Fixed my screen, all dialed in. Gotta figure out how to get center off floor but good for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ben, I thought it looked better with the projector hidden behind the center channel.


----------



## nrichmond

JereyWolf said:


> For the people who have been using the LSP9T with a UST/ALR screen, do you feel that this projector can be a viable living room TV replacement if you only have partial control of ambient light?


Yes, it absolutely is a TV replacement, even in moderate ambient light situations.


















That is with full overhead lights on as well.


----------



## Mike Garrett

Aztar35 said:


> I like these quotes from the review too:
> 
> _"Here, for once, is a projector that actually handles HDR content well – despite that content being designed for TV rather than projection technologies."
> 
> "Another exclusive picture feature of the LSP9T is its HDR10+ support. This means it can work with the extra scene-by-scene metadata the HDR10+ format provides, rather than merely the ‘static’ data you get with the industry standard HDR10 format." _
> 
> He gave the LSP9T 5 out of 5 stars! Nice. And this might be the only projector that supports Dolby Vision, well in this case it's its equivalent HDR10+.


HDR10 and HDR10+ are both 10 bit and 1.07 billion colors. Dolby Vision is 12 bit and 68.7 billion colors.


----------



## Aztar35

Mike Garrett said:


> HDR10 and HDR10+ are both 10 bit and 1.07 billion colors. Dolby Vision is 12 bit and 68.7 billion colors.


Yes, true. It's not Dolby Vision and functional equivalent was a mistake to say when you factor in the bit difference, but it is Samsung's take/version of high end mapping. And it is better than standard HDR 10. HDR10*+* has 4,000 nits of brightness over HDR10's 1,000 nits, but yeah, Dolby Vision still has up to 10,000 nits. Dolby Vision is better than HDR10+ in my opinion but HDR 10+ still outperforms HDR10.


----------



## donbraxton

Aztar35 said:


> Yes, true. It's not Dolby Vision and functional equivalent was a mistake to say when you factor in the bit difference, but it is Samsung's take/version of high end mapping. And it is better than standard HDR 10. HDR10*+* has 4,000 nits of brightness over HDR10's 1,000 nits, but yeah, Dolby Vision still has up to 10,000 nits. Dolby Vision is better than HDR10+ in my opinion but HDR 10+ still outperforms HDR10.



Do we require LLDV hack for this projector to display DV ?. I already have panny 820 player.


----------



## Larry J

Mikenificent1 said:


> Holy moly! The bottom pic is OLED like. Is that picture representative of what the black levels look like in actuality?


Well, yes it does look like that on the Samsung, but its one of those videos to show off oled I think. So they got that background really black. I went back and set the pictures so they can be enlarged.

The pictures posted here that have that magenta shade color is the phone/camera doing that. I saw the same thing using a phone but I assume one can help correct if take the time. But its not easy to get them to look close to actual the actual picture. Which is mostly always true.

I added a few pictures. I rate them as fair. One is the all call of duty game. That picture isn't to far from what I was seeing but not as sharp. It's with the game using hdr. Color is a little more vivid though. Another is the same type as before with that black background. 
I don't know why the pictures are showing twice when I let them be full size. Tried it twice but it keeps doing that.


----------



## driege

Bill97Z said:


> What screen are you using? The blacks on my VAVA look pretty black projecting on a gray wall.


I have the Viewsonic BCP 120


----------



## easystar

bdht said:


> There should be a white balance or rgb balance setting in the menus. You should be able to adjust by eye with a grayscale ramp. just adjust gains, you shouldnt have to adjust offsets as this light engine typically has very flat grayscale with minimal luminance contouring. Turn red down and maybr turn blue down slightly, its possible if its the same light source as the chiq c8ut that youll lose 1-1500 lumens when calibrating. The green laser isnt as bright as red and blue.
> 
> From kraines review of the c8ut. Custom color temperature
> R: 14
> G: 50
> B: 43


Thanks! That fixed the magenta push. But like you said, at the cost of many lumens. Wonder how some got units without magenta push?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## avsenthusiast

I plan on calibrating this projector myself when I get it, but having no experience with calibration hardware/software, based on my preliminary research so far, it seems there are two options available for the i1 Display Pro that I already have:

a) Calman -- a nice GUI and many guides available but I can't seem to find a pattern generator that is "affordable" that works with it

b) HCFR is free but it seems to be super complicated and has a high learning curve

Does anyone know of other apps that would work well with LSP9T? Especially if I have to calibrate many times over the lamps' lifetime so I might as well make a small upfront investment instead of paying for someone to do it. 

What do you all think of this plan?


----------



## mcollin6

avsscientist said:


> I plan on calibrating this projector myself when I get it, but having no experience with calibration hardware/software, based on my preliminary research so far, it seems there are two options available for the i1 Display Pro that I already have:
> 
> a) Calman -- a nice GUI and many guides available but I can't seem to find a pattern generator that is "affordable" that works with it
> 
> b) HCFR is free but it seems to be super complicated and has a high learning curve
> 
> Does anyone know of other apps that would work well with LSP9T? Especially if I have to calibrate many times over the lamps' lifetime so I might as well make a small upfront investment instead of paying for someone to do it.
> 
> What do you all think of this plan?


I saw a review of the laser driven HU85LA after 6 months of use and there was no drop in light output. I am not sure you would have to recalibrate often or at all with the 3 laser LSP9T.


----------



## MarkM78

bennutt said:


> I need to come up with a better center speaker plan.


What about a simpler solution, are you opposed to putting something non reflective like black felt on the top of the speaker?


----------



## ApeEx

Larry J said:


> Well, yes it does look like that on the Samsung, but its one of those videos to show off oled I think. So they got that background really black. I went back and set the pictures so they can be enlarged.
> 
> The pictures posted here that have that magenta shade color is the phone/camera doing that. I saw the same thing using a phone but I assume one can help correct if take the time. But its not easy to get them to look close to actual the actual picture. Which is mostly always true.
> 
> I added a few pictures. I rate them as fair. One is the all call of duty game. That picture isn't to far from what I was seeing but not as sharp. It's with the game using hdr. Color is a little more vivid though. Another is the same type as before with that black background.
> I don't know why the pictures are showing twice when I let them be full size. Tried it twice but it keeps doing that.
> 
> 
> View attachment 3055782


These pictures look stunning! Do you mind sharing what settings you're using? And what screen?


----------



## bdht

easystar said:


> Thanks! That fixed the magenta push. But like you said, at the cost of many lumens. Wonder how some got units without magenta push


i couldnt say. the grey screens usually have an extra blue push which could accentuate it i suppose. but the rgb balance between the projectors should be fairly similar due to the nature of the lasers.



avsscientist said:


> b) HCFR is free but it seems to be super complicated and has a high learning curve


calibrating white balance with hcfr is very simple.


----------



## bdht

mcollin6 said:


> I saw a review of the laser driven HU85LA after 6 months of use and there was no drop in light output. I am not sure you would have to recalibrate often or at all with the 3 laser LSP9T.


thats good, on my led units theres been no light drop after 3k hours as well, i believe due to the cycling(pulsing) of the leds and the rated lifespans are when running at full power without cycling.


----------



## sudhanese2003

avsscientist said:


> I plan on calibrating this projector myself when I get it, but having no experience with calibration hardware/software, based on my preliminary research so far, it seems there are two options available for the i1 Display Pro that I already have:
> 
> a) Calman -- a nice GUI and many guides available but I can't seem to find a pattern generator that is "affordable" that works with it
> 
> b) HCFR is free but it seems to be super complicated and has a high learning curve
> 
> Does anyone know of other apps that would work well with LSP9T? Especially if I have to calibrate many times over the lamps' lifetime so I might as well make a small upfront investment instead of paying for someone to do it.
> 
> What do you all think of this plan?


just playing around with the expert settings for picture got me dizzy. I have not done any complex calibration but it looks like we could learn a lot from sharing and experiences in this forum. Thanks to y’all for keeping it simple so far!


----------



## Aztar35

donbraxton said:


> Do we require LLDV hack for this projector to display DV ?. I already have panny 820 player.


The picture looked great with HDR10+ turned on in the Panny.


----------



## jorgebetancourt

The day I get rod of my 640 ill get one of these if it has 3D.. Without 3d I just cant..

Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk


----------



## avsenthusiast

sudhanese2003 said:


> just playing around with the expert settings for picture got me dizzy. I have not done any complex calibration but it looks like we could learn a lot from sharing and experiences in this forum.


You bet! The day I got my hands on this projector, I will share all my settings and calibration process.

But in the meantime, just needing some pointers as to whether the Calman software is vital or helpful, but reading those "calibration threads" full of super technical jargons is making me dizzy, so I am wondering if anyone here already has the Calman and can test on the LSP9T to find out if this app is a good match for LSP9T?


----------



## avsenthusiast

jorgebetancourt said:


> The day I get rod of my 640 ill get one of these if it has 3D.. Without 3d I just cant..


Please check out the #3 post of this thread and upvote. Thanks.


----------



## sicpup

Any UST 130" screen for LSP9T?


----------



## santiagodraco

Quick update on Samsung support and my focus issue. Samsung reached out to me directly (not sure yet what triggered it, review/email/etc) but I received a call from an engineer who works directly with these projectors and we've been actively engaged in testing and working on the issue. Note that the focus issue is not a deal breaker for me, nor is it "severe" but it's something I want to address and understand. So after finally getting to the right person it's been a great experience so far.

Just a quick update for those that might be curious.


----------



## Aztar35

jorgebetancourt said:


> The day I get rod of my 640 ill get one of these if it has 3D.. Without 3d I just cant..
> 
> Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk


Hi, Jorge. Welcome to the era of triple laser projection but unfortunately I don't think this one does 3D.


----------



## Mike Garrett

Any owner have the Spears & Munsil HDR disc. Would love to see how well this projector handles the test scenes.


----------



## bennutt

Mike Garrett said:


> Any owner have the Spears & Munsil HDR disc. Would love to see how well this projector handles the test scenes.


I don’t.. I have the Disney WOW but never had a 4K or HDR based disc. This thing isn’t messing around on color or black level though.




















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sudhanese2003

Finally got my HT set up with 5.1.4 atmos with 120 xy pet screen. I am simply blown away by the clarity and sound effects for a small room. I saw Endgame in imax but did not see the inscriptions on thor’s stormbreaker. This thing is insane


----------



## toukko

For the owner can someone do a sound meter testing to evaluate how much noise db this projector produce


----------



## 1nquisitive

toukko said:


> For the owner can someone do a sound meter testing to evaluate how much noise db this projector produce


I don't have a meter, but it's much quieter than both the Epson LS500 and Epson 3800.


----------



## bdht

Courtesy of Ekki Schmitt of Cine4home.de











Cine4Home said:


> Samsung RGB LSP9T ;-)
> 
> 
> View attachment 3056251
> 
> 
> 
> So the films you mentioned above, really have BT2020 colors which are outside DCI P3 in them?
> 
> Regards,
> Ekki


----------



## arpatel

Can one go beyond the max 130 inch screen size . Will picture get distorted if you go beyond the 130 inch screen size .


----------



## sudhanese2003

I tried with a bigger size and saw some edge distortion so decided to keep it at 120 and pretty happy with it. Regardless of screen as someone mentioned, there is a box shadow outside the focused area so i am thinking of covering it up with a black velvet box to see if it goes away


----------



## bennutt

Anyone happen to know what this target luminance should be set to?










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## donbraxton

arpatel said:


> Can one go beyond the max 130 inch screen size . Will picture get distorted if you go beyond the 130 inch screen size .


I tried with 151 inches and didnt find any issue. The picture is bright and sharp. Please note that the projector is not calibrated. See post 141 for pictures.


----------



## donbraxton

Mike Garrett said:


> Any owner have the Spears & Munsil HDR disc. Would love to see how well this projector handles the test scenes.



I have the disc, but currently I am projecting on a wall. I tested the HDR scenes ( DV & HDR10+) both looked good to my eyes, especially the night scene of the city, it felt like a 3D image. I am using panny 820. 
When DV is selected, the highlights are more prominent than HDR10+.


----------



## donbraxton

sudhanese2003 said:


> I tried with a bigger size and saw some edge distortion so decided to keep it at 120 and pretty happy with it. Regardless of screen as someone mentioned, there is a box shadow outside the focused area so i am thinking of covering it up with a black velvet box to see if it goes away



Did you try to adjust the focus of the image?. When I tried with 150", I had the same issue, letters were out of focus, after tweaking the focus, I had no issues.


----------



## bdht

bennutt said:


> Anyone happen to know what this target luminance should be set to?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


download a light meter to your phone or buy one. hold it up to the screen, use lux, and divide the lux reading by 3.14 to get nits.

there may be some methodology to measuring an ust projector thats different however, angle of the meter stuff like that.


----------



## Voracious

nrichmond said:


> Yes, it absolutely is a TV replacement, even in moderate ambient light situations.
> 
> That is with full overhead lights on as well.


What modelaand brand is the other screen?


----------



## Aztar35

bdht said:


> Courtesy of Ekki Schmitt of Cine4home.de
> View attachment 3056295


Incredible color width. This future-proofs for when more source material with that wide reach is released. 

Is there any Black Friday special expected on this? I just saw on the Samsung site that for this it has a 0% for up to 48 months financing option but the price is still the same MSRP.


----------



## ACE844

I'm new to the forum and this will be my 1st PJ as I've been waiting for a highly performant triple laser. I've been lurking/reading this and the thread which preceded it for a minute. I have an lsp9t on order and I'm on the fence between keeping this or waiting for a Hisense 100L9 PRO. The 100L9 is only available in the domestic CN market for $15k and they had limited production to 1,000 pcs. The only comprehensive review of that model I've been able to find was here: (海信100L9-PRO评测：全球首款全色激光电视) I've not been able to find anyone who can get them shipped out of China as of yet. Maybe a few will find their way on someone's Global or Gulfstream 700. I've been told however that express carriers won't ship them to the US. As a result, I'm currently skeptical that few if any examples will find their way to CONUS and or if they will sell them in the US market at all as a result.

However, I ran across this review which answers a lot of the asked questions in both threads. Reading the review left me with a number of questions that as someone that's just; learning about this stuff would naturally have....i.e: if the PJ is supposedly performant to +100% of BT2020 how come during the calibration of it during the review below; it was showing as merely performant to approx 95%-97% of BT2020? If you reference the 100L9 review mentioned above that one shows as being performant to 110.3% of BT2020 during that review test/calibration. I have more but hoped this might help others reading/lurking/participating here.

Another thing I picked up on was that the review seems to provide an answer for the over magenta/red hue which has been reported and shown in various pictures shared in the thread










Samsung LSP9T The Premiere 4K Laser Projector Review


Review of the Samsung LSP9T The Premiere which is an ultra-short-throw 4K DLP laser projector that delivers an image 100 to 130 inches in size.




www.avforums.com


----------



## Syed117

The delivery company called and said they are not able to deliver the projector today. Looks like it might be Thursday.

I know this is a relatively high value product, but wish it didn't have to ship this way.


----------



## accsuperstar

Aztar35 said:


> Incredible color width. This future-proofs for when more source material with that wide reach is released.
> 
> Is there any Black Friday special expected on this? I just saw on the Samsung site that for this it has a 0% for up to 48 months financing option but the price is still the same MSRP.


Doubtful as this product just released.


----------



## sicpup

Elite Screens makes only 120" and 135" screens. I prefer the bigger screen. If I go with the 135" and wanted edge to edge display, what are the possible outcome?


----------



## santiagodraco

sicpup said:


> Elite Screens makes only 120" and 135" screens. I prefer the bigger screen. If I go with the 135" and wanted edge to edge display, what are the possible outcome?


For the 9 (and definitely the 7) I'd expect some focus issues at the edges and lower brightness. I am going to upgrade my 7 to the 9 (and frankly I am pretty happy with the 7 but the 9 seems next level, we shall see) and I will keep the 9 at 120". My assumption is that the sweet spot for the 9 is likely closer to 120 than 130 since Samsung mentioned "clear image" at lower than max size. An extra 10 inches is nice (so she said) but after installing my new Samsung Terrace tv outdoors and seeing how amazing the picture quality is with it's super bright screen (like blow you away great) I want to get the best experience out of the projector hence not going too large with the screen.


----------



## sudhanese2003

Syed117 said:


> The delivery company called and said they are not able to deliver the projector today. Looks like it might be Thursday.
> 
> I know this is a relatively high value product, but wish it didn't have to ship this way.


From a high value product standpoint, samsung and their shipping partner ags are not about customer experience at all and they partner with local freight companies that do not care either so i had to do some extra steps to get it last week or it was scheduled for later this week. That would have been a 3 week turnaround since order


----------



## sudhanese2003

donbraxton said:


> Did you try to adjust the focus of the image?. When I tried with 150", I had the same issue, letters were out of focus, after tweaking the focus, I had no issues.


I have not and will get back if that works


----------



## donbraxton

sicpup said:


> Elite Screens makes only 120" and 135" screens. I prefer the bigger screen. If I go with the 135" and wanted edge to edge display, what are the possible outcome?


Where did you see UST ALR 135 " ?. The max size I was able to find is 120". 



santiagodraco said:


> For the 9 (and definitely the 7) I'd expect some focus issues at the edges and lower brightness. I am going to upgrade my 7 to the 9 (and frankly I am pretty happy with the 7 but the 9 seems next level, we shall see) and I will keep the 9 at 120". My assumption is that the sweet spot for the 9 is likely closer to 120 than 130 since Samsung mentioned "clear image" at lower than max size. An extra 10 inches is nice (so she said) but after installing my new Samsung Terrace tv outdoors and seeing how amazing the picture quality is with it's super bright screen (like blow you away great) I want to get the best experience out of the projector hence not going too large with the screen.


I tried with 150" image (on a wall) and the picture was sharp and bright ( both SDR & HDR).


----------



## nrichmond

Voracious said:


> What modelaand brand is the other screen?


Low to mid level LG
75UK6190PUB

It was purchased a little less than a year ago so it is fairly new - 4k, HDR10, HLG


----------



## Youval

Hey Guys, 
Just joined. Been lurking for a long time. 
Ordered the 9 and should (crossing fingers) arrive sometime next week. I’m in Canada so it was quite challenging since it’s not available here yet but managed to do it through a US Vendor. Bought the 120” EluneVision Aurora 8K short throw screen. Here’s where I’m having a hard time and hopefully someone can help me out. So to get 120” the back of the projector has to be 7” from the wall and the actual projector is 14”. My wall unit now is 16”. I’ve literally been going crazy trying to find a wall AV unit that’s anywhere near 21” and up. Seems like everything out there is between 15” and 17”.
Any help would be appreciated. 
Thanks Gents


----------



## bennutt

Youval said:


> Hey Guys,
> Just joined. Been lurking for a long time.
> Ordered the 9 and should (crossing fingers) arrive sometime next week. I’m in Canada so it was quite challenging since it’s not available here yet but managed to do it through a US Vendor. Bought the 120” EluneVision Aurora 8K short throw screen. Here’s where I’m having a hard time and hopefully someone can help me out. So to get 120” the back of the projector has to be 7” from the wall and the actual projector is 14”. My wall unit now is 16”. I’ve literally been going crazy trying to find a wall AV unit that’s anywhere near 21” and up. Seems like everything out there is between 15” and 17”.
> Any help would be appreciated.
> Thanks Gents


I’m ready to build something... but even then it’s nearly impossible to place a center channel properly.
You can’t go above it, (between projector and screen) unless it’s sound bar skinny.
Below is too low...

If I put a stand in front of it, IR gets blocked for remote
commands. First world problems, Illustrated.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Youval

bennutt said:


> I’m ready to build something... but even then it’s nearly impossible to place a center channel properly.
> You can’t go above it, (between projector and screen) unless it’s sound bar skinny.
> Below is too low...
> 
> If I put a stand in front of it, IR gets blocked for remote
> commands. First world problems, Illustrated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Lol serious first world problems! 
All the ads show this skinny wall unit but that’s really not representative since technically you need 21” depth not the 7” they advertise. 
Awesome set up by the way!


----------



## Run&Gun

bennutt said:


> I’m ready to build something... but even then it’s nearly impossible to place a center channel properly.
> You can’t go above it, (between projector and screen) unless it’s sound bar skinny.
> Below is too low...
> 
> If I put a stand in front of it, IR gets blocked for remote
> commands. First world problems, Illustrated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I bought an IR repeater from Amazon, because I have my center directly in front of my UST.

You could also "float" your screen off the wall enough distance to allow the image path to clear the center if placed directly below the screen, in effect recessing the center channel. Of course, then the projector will have to sit farther out in to the room.


----------



## Run&Gun

Youval said:


> Hey Guys,
> Just joined. Been lurking for a long time.
> Ordered the 9 and should (crossing fingers) arrive sometime next week. I’m in Canada so it was quite challenging since it’s not available here yet but managed to do it through a US Vendor. Bought the 120” EluneVision Aurora 8K short throw screen. Here’s where I’m having a hard time and hopefully someone can help me out. So to get 120” the back of the projector has to be 7” from the wall and the actual projector is 14”. My wall unit now is 16”. I’ve literally been going crazy trying to find a wall AV unit that’s anywhere near 21” and up. Seems like everything out there is between 15” and 17”.
> Any help would be appreciated.
> Thanks Gents


Pull the wall unit off the wall. My cabinet is just under 21" deep(my UST sits on top with the center directly in front of it) and it's ~9 3/4" off of the wall. But it has always been off of the wall, to accommodate the previous two rptv's. I guess it kind of depends on your room and layout and personal preference as to how it would end up looking.


----------



## sudhanese2003

The setup that i have and the seating height and position gives good effect with the center channel. Clearance was not a problem as much as i thought.


----------



## sudhanese2003

sudhanese2003 said:


> I have not and will get back if that works


Focus did not help with the box shadow


----------



## bennutt

sudhanese2003 said:


> View attachment 3057072
> 
> 
> View attachment 3057073
> 
> 
> The setup that i have and the seating height and position gives good effect with the center channel. Clearance was not a problem as much as i thought.


Could I get a link to that furniture so I can look at dimensions? That might be perfect if I raise the screen a bit. I’m at 12” off the ground right now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Syed117

Anyone run any HDR10+ discs on a player that supports it?

I picked up the Panasonic UB820 and 1917 which apparently has HDR10+. Looking to use that as my primary test disc.


----------



## cminor102

Hey guys,
I'm new here as well and have been desperately stalking everything LSP9T until mine came a few days ago. Ordered on October 5th but Samsung and AGS delayed it 3 times until they finally told me they had "lost" the package a week after missing the third delivery date on November 9th. They promised me a new one to arrive in 2-3 weeks but their horrible customer service made me say screw it and I ordered it next day from best buy, but I had a feeling from all of these positive reviews that I would love it enough to justify the risk of maybe needing to return it and eat the 15% restocking fee. And that turned out to be 1000% the right thing to do because I'm in love with this projector despite the god awful conditions it is having to fight with (uneven white wall, paint that's anything but smooth, and horrible light bleed from my window with blackout shades that don't cover the full window (I live in an apartment in NYC so there is constant light pollution even at night)). Some of you would seriously cringe at it now, and seeing everyones pictures of it up on a good screen in a proper theater makes me feel like I bought a Lamborghini to drive in bumper to bumper traffic. But damn if it doesn't look good when the conditions are better.

I bought this to turn the white wall in my bedroom into a screen to keep the news on while I work and to watch movies on at night, so I considered going with the Vava or the LSP7T, but I hoped the brighter picture and better colors would be enough to come through during the day with all the lights on and window shades open. Samsung does after all market this projector as not needing a screen, and for the most part I'll give it to them. It's just hard to come by an actually flat wall that I could myself put a better quality of paint over in the city. I'm not really familiar with the RBE so I haven't noticed that yet, but the laser speckle is hyper apparent on the course wall with certain colors (most notably red I think because of the dedicated red diode?). I watch a lot of Formula 1 on it so when Ferrari red is on the screen it almost makes my eyes focus beyond the screen if that makes sense. It looks almost exactly like everything red was colored by a red laser pointer, but I got used to it for now. But when the shades are closed the colors still look amazing. I do wish there were some more brightness tweaks, but in the dark, movie and filmmaker mode don't sear my eyes all that much in normal scenes. 

I'm moving in a month to a different apartment, and once that is done I'll buy a proper screen. But I'm so blown away with how it even handles these conditions that I'm wondering if it would be possible to get a screen that I could put in the living room and then move my OLED into my bedroom. I'm new to shopping for screens and know very little but I saw a video of a UST on an AEON CLR in a bright living room that looked fine. 

The sound is also way better than I was expecting. Lacking a little in the low end but I'd say that it's enough for the most part. And it does feel pretty immersive in general so I'm very happy with it for what I'm using it for now. 

Anyways just a more casual for now take on this projector. 

The photos in the day time (first two same conditions, projector on standard mode for all pictures) really don't do it justice in person, and I had to try and get around all the weird processing the iPhone does when taking pictures. That window is about 10ft x 10ft so it's fighting a lot of light. The image is also so big and I'm relatively close that I don't even notice the uneven picture on the top after a little bit of watching. I tried keystone correcting and it made it good enough for now, but I'm still playing with it.


----------



## survivor

LSP9T is in my short list of UST projectors for my home theater project. Can the owners here talk me through why I should go for LSP9T vs LG HU85LA or SONY VPL-VZ1000ES? I'm sure this comparison came up some point during your decision to purchase LSP9T


----------



## avsenthusiast

survivor said:


> LSP9T is in my short list of UST projectors for my home theater project. Can the owners here talk me through why I should go for LSP9T vs LG HU85LA or SONY VPL-VZ1000ES? I'm sure this comparison came up some point during your decision to purchase LSP9T


I am not an owner, but here is my thought process so far:

1. Sony VZ1000ES -- too expensive, unless budget is not a concern, then go for it

2. LG HU85LA -- 99% of this LG is everything I wanted, but it seems to suffer with black levels, but most critically, its colors are not reaching 100% DCI-P3, and since I am a huge colors person, LSP9T with its 147% P3 is a no-brainer for me, especially I assume it should get 100% after calibration with its large gamut to begin with. Hopefully a detailed review from one of the major projector review sites will confirm this soon.

Speaking of colors, has anyone gone into the menu and found if there are* 2-point or multiple-point calibration controls on the LSP9T*? The number of fine controls has always been LG's strong suit.


----------



## survivor

avsscientist said:


> Speaking of colors, has anyone gone into the menu and found if there are* 2-point or multiple-point calibration controls on the LSP9T*? The number of fine controls has always been LG's strong suit.


I read somewhere that the advanced screen adjustment setting offers up 15 points of adjustment.


----------



## survivor

avsscientist said:


> I am not an owner, but here is my though process so far:
> 
> 1. Sony VZ1000ES -- too expensive, unless budget is not a concern, then go for it
> 
> 2. LG HU85LA -- 99% of this LG is everything I wanted, but it seems to suffer with black levels, but most critically, its colors are not reaching 100% DCI-P3, and since I am a huge colors person, LSP9T with its 147% P3 is a no-brainer for me, especially I assume it should get 100% after calibration with its large gamut to begin with. Hopefully a detailed review from one of the major projector review sites will confirm this soon.
> 
> Speaking of colors, has anyone gone into the menu and found if there are* 2-point or multiple-point calibration controls on the LSP9T*? The number of fine controls has always been LG's strong suit.


Just read the review for Epson LS500 and looks like there is another short listed candidate. It came bundled with the 120" ALR screen and less than what Samsung is asking for, which is a big plus. Performance wise seems to be on-par or better than HU85LA and LSP9T per the review. Aesthetic wise the hood looks a bit out of place and the projector placement needs to be couple inches further from the screen.


----------



## darrellh44

Youval said:


> Lol serious first world problems!
> All the ads show this skinny wall unit but that’s really not representative since technically you need 21” depth not the 7” they advertise.
> Awesome set up by the way!


Is there a vertical flip screen mode that would allow this projector to be hung from the ceiling instead of table-top mounted. I know this is a common feature of traditional projectors. Seems like it could potentially solve some problems with some setups.


----------



## sudhanese2003

survivor said:


> LSP9T is in my short list of UST projectors for my home theater project. Can the owners here talk me through why I should go for LSP9T vs LG HU85LA or SONY VPL-VZ1000ES? I'm sure this comparison came up some point during your decision to purchase LSP9T


 Did not consider the sony at all. I have seen the LG in action, got to have it for a while and did not like the sluggish OS or the color/black level performance and how it handled ambient light. The samsung 9t fits my needs, checks all the boxes and i have had better experience with samsung as a consumer. The fact that i am blown away by the out of box performance with zero calibration is amazing and cant wait to see how it looks when tuned better


----------



## cminor102

survivor said:


> LSP9T is in my short list of UST projectors for my home theater project. Can the owners here talk me through why I should go for LSP9T vs LG HU85LA or SONY VPL-VZ1000ES? I'm sure this comparison came up some point during your decision to purchase LSP9T


Totally did!
I looked at those three but the Sony was just too much more expensive than I thought I could justify, and its also much bigger if I recall. The Samsung really is a decent size and I think the LG was bigger as well. Another benefit of the Samsung is its extreme throw ratio. You can put it very close to the wall and get a great size, but I think the LG has a similar throw ratio. I also personally liked the look of the Samsung the best, and liked how they had good inboard 4 channel speakers. 

Then in terms of smarts, the LG and Samsung win by far. And even though I mainly use the new Google TV remote to control the whole thing, I personally prefer the smaller, more compact, and more traditional remote of the Samsung to the LG. I have an LG OLED and am not sold on the "magic wand" style or the bulky size. Then there is the fact that the Samsung comes with an Apple TV app so you don't need an Apple TV box, and it allows for screen mirroring and casting to the tv from airplay which I think the LG lacks. 

But I also have to add that the system is pretty slow. I've used other Samsung TVs before and really bummed that they seemed to cheap out on the processor in the unit. It's not unusable, but it feels 2 generations old. So I can't speak to the LG but the Samsung's not great, yet it is acceptable. I definitely would not call it a dealbreaker as even the new Google TV dongle that I'm using isn't Apple TV fast. But god if Google assistant isn't the greatest thing... really wish Samsung would add it. 

But then it came to colors and when I saw the specs I got too excited. Seeing those numbers (106% of BT.2020 and 147% of DCI-P3) made me dead set on this projector, and even after becoming so frustrated with their delays and customer service I still went for it. Comparing it to the LSP7T was crazy and this felt pretty future proof. They look really really good even out of the box and I am planning on learning how to calibrate and get the best out of it. 

I hope this helps and good luck!



avsscientist said:


> Speaking of colors, has anyone gone into the menu and found if there are* 2-point or multiple-point calibration controls on the LSP9T*? The number of fine controls has always been LG's strong suit.


I just went into the menus and found both 2 point and 10 point settings for calibration so I hope that answers your question!


----------



## cminor102

darrellh44 said:


> Is there a vertical flip screen mode that would allow this projector to be hung from the ceiling instead of table-top mounted. I know this is a common feature of traditional projectors. Seems like it could potentially solve some problems with some setups.


Yes there are mounting points on the bottom of the projector that will allow you to ceiling mount, and in the menus there are options for floor front and rear projection and ceiling front and rear projection. Given how many precautions there are about looking into the laser, rear mounting just seems scary unless it is a permanent screen mount so it won't accidentally turn on and blind you


----------



## cminor102

Youval said:


> Hey Guys,
> Just joined. Been lurking for a long time.
> Ordered the 9 and should (crossing fingers) arrive sometime next week. I’m in Canada so it was quite challenging since it’s not available here yet but managed to do it through a US Vendor. Bought the 120” EluneVision Aurora 8K short throw screen. Here’s where I’m having a hard time and hopefully someone can help me out. So to get 120” the back of the projector has to be 7” from the wall and the actual projector is 14”. My wall unit now is 16”. I’ve literally been going crazy trying to find a wall AV unit that’s anywhere near 21” and up. Seems like everything out there is between 15” and 17”.
> Any help would be appreciated.
> Thanks Gents


I just measured from the base of the projector's feet on the front to where the actual front is and its about 3 inches of overhang. If you're comfortable having the body stick out 3 inches while the feet are comfortably on the table then that might help give you those extra inches. I don't know how sketchy that is, but the unit itself is decently weighty. But also really any taps to the projector can mess the image a bit so you'd want it to be protected. The feet are 2 nice height adjustable rubber nubs at the front (that I felt were a pain to adjust the picture while not leaning over it and blinding myself), but are pretty grippy. Then theres a wider rubber stopper for the rear that I don't think is adjustable.


----------



## donbraxton

Syed117 said:


> Anyone run any HDR10+ discs on a player that supports it?
> 
> I picked up the Panasonic UB820 and 1917 which apparently has HDR10+. Looking to use that as my primary test disc.


Yes. I also have panny 820 and Spears & Munsil calibration disc. It has HDR10+, DV, HDR10, HLG demo material. 
I played HDR10+ and DV, both looked good. DV picture was bit brighter than HDR10+.


----------



## donbraxton

sudhanese2003 said:


> Focus did not help with the box shadow


Thats Strange. It is able to throw picture on a 11ft wall end to end. I dont see any loss in focus.


----------



## avsenthusiast

cminor102 said:


> But I also have to add that the system is pretty slow. I've used other Samsung TVs before and really bummed that they seemed to cheap out on the processor in the unit. It's not unusable, but it feels 2 generations old. So I can't speak to the LG but the Samsung's not great, yet it is acceptable. I definitely would not call it a dealbreaker


Could you clarify, is it the GUI that is slow or the whole projector in general? Things like motion handling require good processors so I hope it's just the GUI that sucks, not image processing itself. 

I believe Samsung uses Tizen on this projector? Like LG's WebOS, it used to be very sluggish and it's only after v5.0 was released that I hear people complain about it less, so I wonder if Samsung is the same, that they will continue to deliver firmware updates on LSP9T to improve speed? 

Or maybe they will simply betray this year's loyal supporters by only releasing firmwares to next year's models? 

Do they even have a history of delivering firmware updates to previous years' models?


----------



## Charles R

donbraxton said:


> It is able to throw picture on a 11ft wall end to end. I dont see any loss in focus.
> 
> View attachment 3057325


It might just be me however the outer half of the two smaller circles (towards the sides of the image) appear less defined (wider) as does the diagonal lines the further they go out. White lines might be a better judge?


----------



## bdht

Gonna put these here for reference. Be sure to read the cine4home review, 2600 lumens calibrated!



Cine4Home said:


> A first compact review will be published tomorrow ;-)
> 
> Overall the machine is very impressive, but the RGB laser does bring some drawbacks:
> 
> - Chromatic abberation --> no perfect convergence due to the laser spectrum-
> 
> - Laser Speckle, especially on CLR screens (Elite / Optoma)
> 
> - Low CRI as living room light (yes, this is an aspect, if you do not turn on ambient light during viewing). Be prepared to see your furniture, walls, paintings, carpets, even your own skin in new, amazing pop-art colors ;-)
> 
> - RBE is visible (240Hz, like the LG Vivo).
> 
> - Calibration of BT709 content is difficult
> 
> 
> But hey, once you watch one of these OLED or QLED demo reels on that machine, most of the flaws above are forgotten due to its jaw dropping color intensity, paired with its huge brightness. Unfortunately, we have hardly any full BT2020 content yet :-(
> 
> Regards,
> Ekki





Cine4Home said:


> - First Review is up on our page. It is not a finisihed review, just sort of a preview with first impressions and measurements of the ootb settings.
> I will not insert a link here, as last time I did it was unfortunately censored and I got a penalty.
> 
> - Speckle is less on a white screen but noticable from near.
> 
> - Depends on the ADL.. in higher ADLs a "12", because the Samsung is better here than JVC, in very low ADLs I guess a "5". Native contrast ist DLP typical around 2000:1.
> 
> Regards,
> Ekki


----------



## sudhanese2003

donbraxton said:


> Thats Strange. It is able to throw picture on a 11ft wall end to end. I dont see any loss in focus.
> 
> View attachment 3057325
> 
> 
> View attachment 3057328


i was trying to use the native calibration program which helped me focus the edges better but did not do much with the box.I used the 10 point system to get it to perfectly line up with my screen but maybe i should play with the proj clearance from the wall


----------



## Run&Gun

darrellh44 said:


> Is there a vertical flip screen mode that would allow this projector to be hung from the ceiling instead of table-top mounted. I know this is a common feature of traditional projectors. Seems like it could potentially solve some problems with some setups.


I've seen the 'ceiling mount a UST' question come up on here a lot lately. Something to think about: UST projectors are VERY close to the screens, so if you were to ceiling mount one, it's probably going to be less than a foot above the screen and less than a foot in front of the screen hanging on/from the ceiling in your field of view. With a ceiling mounted normal throw projector, it's usually behind you and therefore not in your field of view.


----------



## cminor102

avsscientist said:


> Could you clarify, is it the GUI that is slow or the whole projector in general? Things like motion handling require good processors so I hope it's just the GUI that sucks, not image processing itself.
> 
> I believe Samsung uses Tizen on this projector? Like LG's WebOS, it used to be very sluggish and it's only after v5.0 was released that I hear people complain about it less, so I wonder if Samsung is the same, that they will continue to deliver firmware updates on LSP9T to improve speed?
> 
> Or maybe they will simply betray this year's loyal supporters by only releasing firmwares to next year's models?
> 
> Do they even have a history of delivering firmware updates to previous years' models?


Oh good point. I'm sure its very optimized for picture processing, and all of the reviews that praise it make me less worried about that. Yes I was specifically referring to the Tizen operating system. I rarely use WebOS on my C9, but that feels snappier. By sluggish I just mean it take a little longer than normal to pull up the home menu and scroll through the settings. Obviously we are all spoiled by 2020 standards, but this would be top line in 2016 or so. For me it's hard to get the focus properly on my wall (not the projectors fault) so I go back and forth between the picture and focusing menu and I have to slow down my clicks for the OS to catch up. It's really just a nit pick, but it also stutters a bit when I'm trying to change the picture mode quickly when I'm impatient. 

Hmm I actually am wondering if this is behind on the firmware compared to Samsungs latest TVs. Google assistant is not an option on the LSP9T, but apparently Samsung's latest just got support for it. I really hope that comes to a future update.


----------



## sudhanese2003

I have been using fire tv 4k. Had some observations regarding picture/sound format:
The native apps such as apple tv and disney+ is not allowing either dolby vision or atmos. However, with the above 2 apps in fire tv, i was able to see dolby vision in apple tv and atmos in disney+. Interestingly, netflix seems to have Ultra HD 4k and Dolby Atmos in the native app and not in the fire tv app. Prime video had good availability of Ultra HD and Atmos titles.


----------



## mcollin6

sudhanese2003 said:


> I have been using fire tv 4k. Had some observations regarding picture/sound format:
> The native apps such as apple tv and disney+ is not allowing either dolby vision or atmos. However, with the above 2 apps in fire tv, i was able to see dolby vision in apple tv and atmos in disney+. Interestingly, netflix seems to have Ultra HD 4k and Dolby Atmos in the native app and not in the fire tv app. Prime video had good availability of Ultra HD and Atmos titles.


Just a quick clarification. Are you sure you are seeing Dolby Vision support for the LSP9T? AFAIK, it doesn’t support DV, only HDR10+. Can you explain what you mean about seeing DV? Thx


----------



## mcollin6

sudhanese2003 said:


> i was trying to use the native calibration program which helped me focus the edges better but did not do much with the box.I used the 10 point system to get it to perfectly line up with my screen but maybe i should play with the proj clearance from the wall


Are you seeing light wash outside of the image? When you use the 10 point system, it usually shrinks the image to allow it to fit onto the wanted area of the screen. If you don’t use any of that, the light wash should go away.


----------



## sudhanese2003

mcollin6 said:


> Just a quick clarification. Are you sure you are seeing Dolby Vision support for the LSP9T? AFAIK, it doesn’t support DV, only HDR10+. Can you explain what you mean about seeing DV? Thx


In the apple tv app on fire tv, under each program signature it lists all the formats available and i am seeing dolby vision listed for most programs and do not see the same on the native app. My avr lets me check the audio format it is playing but not the video so not able to confirm the actual resolution


----------



## sudhanese2003

mcollin6 said:


> Are you seeing light wash outside of the image? When you use the 10 point system, it usually shrinks the image to allow it to fit onto the wanted area of the screen. If you don’t use any of that, the light wash should go away.


I tried a size somewhat close to the dimensions of the screen but slightly outside and then used the 10 point system to align the lines perfectly to the screen and hence seeing the box. I might need to move the proj even closer and do the above steps to see if the box gets even smaller. Its honestly not too annoying given the brightness of the screen which takes up all the attention.


----------



## Transepoch

Run&Gun said:


> I've seen the 'ceiling mount a UST' question come up on here a lot lately. Something to think about: UST projectors are VERY close to the screens, so if you were to ceiling mount one, it's probably going to be less than a foot above the screen and less than a foot in front of the screen hanging on/from the ceiling in your field of view. With a ceiling mounted normal throw projector, it's usually behind you and therefore not in your field of view.


True, but aren't all USTs normally in your field of view, due to their near-screen mounting? Ceiling or table/floor wouldn't really change that.


survivor said:


> Just read the review for Epson LS500 and looks like there is another short listed candidate. It came bundled with the 120" ALR screen and less than what Samsung is asking for, which is a big plus.


I managed to find one of the local Magnolia's over the weekend with the Epson LS500 on display, and really hope what I observed was due to poor setup/configuration/video chain. Colors were a bit off, black levels & contrast were very poor (they claimed it was a UST-designed screen but I'm doubtful,) and there seemed to be some heavy tearing in motion.

Really wish I had known of the two dealers in the area who had the Sony's on display until a few months ago, when I had been trying to do all the demos.


----------



## Run&Gun

Transepoch said:


> True, but aren't all USTs normally in your field of view, due to their near-screen mounting? Ceiling or table/floor wouldn't really change that.
> 
> I managed to find one of the local Magnolia's over the weekend with the Epson LS500 on display, and really hope what I observed was due to poor setup/configuration/video chain. Colors were a bit off, black levels & contrast were very poor (they claimed it was a UST-designed screen but I'm doubtful,) and there seemed to be some heavy tearing in motion.
> 
> Really wish I had known of the two dealers in the area who had the Sony's on display until a few months ago, when I had been trying to do all the demos.


But you are generally looking towards the upper part of the screen (where peoples heads are) way more than the bottom, so you'll be more likely to see something in front of/at the top of the screen than something at the bottom.

On the plus side, the lens would probably stay way cleaner. 

I don't trust anything being shown at a Best Buy(Magnolia). Lord only knows what all that signal is going through before it gets to the display. Several years ago, when one of my friends was looking at a TV, we took in one of my miniature digital recorder/players that had SDI and HDMI outs with some various footage I had previously shot on one of my VariCams(we both work in TV). They let us hook it up directly to the monitors he was interested in and play the footage so he knew he was looking at a quality image/signal and really evaluate the TV itself. At least as best you can on the sales floor of a Best Buy.


----------



## easystar

Speaking of colors, has anyone gone into the menu and found if there are* 2-point or multiple-point calibration controls on the LSP9T*? The number of fine controls has always been LG's strong suit.[/QUOTE]

There are both 2 point and 10 point calibration controls. My unit required correction of magenta out of the box. I’m noticing it on almost everyone’s posted pictures too.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## darrellh44

Run&Gun said:


> I've seen the 'ceiling mount a UST' question come up on here a lot lately. Something to think about: UST projectors are VERY close to the screens, so if you were to ceiling mount one, it's probably going to be less than a foot above the screen and less than a foot in front of the screen hanging on/from the ceiling in your field of view. With a ceiling mounted normal throw projector, it's usually behind you and therefore not in your field of view.


Agree that it would be more noticeable up higher, but it wouldn't be obstructing line of sight to the screen. It'd be nice if the PJ came in a black exterior, but it wouldn't be hard to block it from view on two sides with an 'L' frame wrapped in velvet.

There are a couple of advantages for ceiling mount. I have a woven AT screen with my center channel speaker behind it, so an ALR screen is not an option for me. It's ok for my room since it is light controlled with mostly dark surfaces. If the UST PJ is below the screen, then there's the problem with light bouncing off the non-ALR screen onto the ceiling. Mounting the PJ above the screen would eliminate this problem (I typically can't see the floor when reclined). Also with the PJ mounted up high, it is more out of the way and much less likely to get bumped and maybe knocked off alignment. It does require a longer HDMI run however and probably makes the built-in speakers less usable.


----------



## bennutt

Syed117 said:


> Anyone run any HDR10+ discs on a player that supports it?
> 
> I picked up the Panasonic UB820 and 1917 which apparently has HDR10+. Looking to use that as my primary test disc.


I have the Oppo 203 and here is a list of movies you might already have that include HDR 10+






List of 4k Blu-ray Discs with HDR10+ | HD Report







hd-report.com





I have been using Alita and Back to the Future myself.


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----------



## MDesigns

sudhanese2003 said:


> I tried a size somewhat close to the dimensions of the screen but slightly outside and then used the 10 point system to align the lines perfectly to the screen and hence seeing the box. I might need to move the proj even closer and do the above steps to see if the box gets even smaller. Its honestly not too annoying given the brightness of the screen which takes up all the attention.


You should try to get it as close to perfect as possible without using the digital corrections, or try not to use those at all. Those always degrade the image quality someway.


----------



## 1nquisitive

survivor said:


> Just read the review for Epson LS500 and looks like there is another short listed candidate. It came bundled with the 120" ALR screen and less than what Samsung is asking for, which is a big plus. Performance wise seems to be on-par or better than HU85LA and LSP9T per the review. Aesthetic wise the hood looks a bit out of place and the projector placement needs to be couple inches further from the screen.


For what it's worth, I spent a little time with both the LSP9T and the Epson LS500. Quick thoughts here:








Official Samsung "Premiere" LSP9T Owners Thread


Well, mostly because I already have a matte white and Cinegrey 3D screen at home and I‘d like to understand if I should get a UST ALR one to pair with the LSP9T or live with what I’ve got. Ok, that may be not the complete truth. I am also a geek and love understanding how things work. 😁. I...




www.avsforum.com





And some LSP9T impressions/pics here:








Official Samsung "Premiere" LSP9T Owners Thread


Well, mostly because I already have a matte white and Cinegrey 3D screen at home and I‘d like to understand if I should get a UST ALR one to pair with the LSP9T or live with what I’ve got. Ok, that may be not the complete truth. I am also a geek and love understanding how things work. 😁. I...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## Syed117

donbraxton said:


> Yes. I also have panny 820 and Spears & Munsil calibration disc. It has HDR10+, DV, HDR10, HLG demo material.
> I played HDR10+ and DV, both looked good. DV picture was bit brighter than HDR10+.





bennutt said:


> I have the Oppo 203 and here is a list of movies you might already have that include HDR 10+
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> List of 4k Blu-ray Discs with HDR10+ | HD Report
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hd-report.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been using Alita and Back to the Future myself.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks guys. Will check them out.

I also started adding some velvet to the ceiling to help with light bouncing back. Doesn't look too bad at all. Wondering how far out I should take it.
















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## Mikenificent1

Syed117 said:


> Thanks guys. Will check them out.
> 
> I also started adding some velvet to the ceiling to help with light bouncing back. Doesn't look too bad at all. Wondering how far out I should take it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-F916U1 using Tapatalk


You did a nice clean job. How did you stick it to the ceiling?


----------



## Syed117

Mikenificent1 said:


> You did a nice clean job. How did you stick it to the ceiling?


Thanks. Someone earlier in this thread suggested the velvet rolls with the adhesive backing.

I ended up going with individual sheets because they seemed easier to manage one panel at a time. A bit more expensive, but gave me some more control. They lined up well and you can't really see the panels or the lines unless you are very close looking for them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081Q8KM5Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## avsenthusiast

cminor102 said:


> By sluggish I just mean it take a little longer than normal to pull up the home menu and scroll through the settings. Obviously we are all spoiled by 2020 standards, but this would be top line in 2016 or so. For me it's hard to get the focus properly on my wall (not the projectors fault) so I go back and forth between the picture and focusing menu and I have to slow down my clicks for the OS to catch up. It's really just a nit pick, but it also stutters a bit when I'm trying to change the picture mode quickly when I'm impatient.


I seriously hope Samsung can address the menu stutter like LG did. I don't have experience with Samsung TVs so I don't know how good they are with updating their sets. For the price of $6500 I think the customers deserve at least a firmware update or two, especially as a gesture of good will to gain market share since it's Samsung first UST 4K projector?


----------



## Syed117

avsscientist said:


> I seriously hope Samsung can address the menu stutter like LG did. I don't have experience with Samsung TVs so I don't know how good they are with updating their sets. For the price of $6500 I think the customers deserve at least a firmware update or two, especially as a gesture of good will to gain market share since it's Samsung first UST 4K projector?


I've never liked the speed of their systems. Have a KS8000 that is maybe 4 years old and the OS was slow when I got it and has only gotten slower. Recently got a 2020 Frame and the system on that is slow as well. It's gotten a few updates but it's not great.

I'm not expecting much from the 9T. They just don't seem to be good on the software side.

I think someone was asking earlier about Atmos on the Samsung devices. I don't think they officially support Atmos, but they do allow passthrough. Have a Sonos Arc connected to the Frame and it gets an atmos signal through e-arc.

My LG CX however is very fast. WebOS is way better than Tizen.


----------



## avsenthusiast

Can anyone with LSP9T check if under the menu, there is something like General>Network>Expert Settings for IP control using Calman's calibration software? 

Thanks


----------



## avsenthusiast

Syed117 said:


> My LG CX however is very fast. WebOS is way better than Tizen.


Yes I agree, WebOS on CX is impressive. I don't remember Q90T being too shabby either, but yea Samsung menus do tend to have a lag I don't know why, probably a Tizen issue.


----------



## Youval

Hey Gents,
So thankfully my wife is a graphic designer/web developer and she made a mock up for me. Since I’m losing my mind finding the right entertainment unit that has the proper 22” of depth to accommodate the 120”.
I’m finally going custom with the drawer that the projector will be sitting on as a pullout. Entertainment unit will be 16” deep and the projector will be sitting on a drawer that will extend an extra 7”.
As you can see from the mock-up everything is calculated but I’m worried that my Sound Bar ( not really a sound bar it’s the Totem Acoustics Solution Bar Tribe Trio) might be in the way of the actual projection to the screen if that makes sense.
Can the laser throw be adjusted?


----------



## bennutt

avsscientist said:


> Can anyone with LSP9T check if under the menu, there is something like General>Network>Expert Settings for IP control using Calman's calibration software?
> 
> Thanks


Looks like it.










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----------



## bennutt

Youval said:


> Hey Gents,
> So thankfully my wife is a graphic designer/web developer and she made a mock up for me. Since I’m losing my mind finding the right entertainment unit that has the proper 22” of depth to accommodate the 120”.
> I’m finally going custom with the drawer that the projector will be sitting on as a pullout. Entertainment unit will be 16” deep and the projector will be sitting on a drawer that will extend an extra 7”.
> As you can see from the mock-up everything is calculated but I’m worried that my Sound Bar ( not really a sound bar it’s the Totem Acoustics Solution Bar Tribe Trio) might be in the way of the actual projection to the screen if that makes sense.
> Can the laser throw be adjusted?


For depth, (based on my 120” screen) you have roughly the distance between the screen and the back of the projector before objects create shadows.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Charles R

Youval said:


> So thankfully my wife is a graphic designer/web developer and she made a mock up for me.


I'm sure you are considering it. In my experience the most important factor is where the screen should be located. As in the comfortable viewing height for the various seats (or rows). Everything else should be worked around this requirement... not the other way around.


----------



## Syed117

Delivery guy had it sitting on its side on my front step. 

Tape on one side had come apart. Not really acceptable delivery. 

Oh well, hopefully it's ok. Going to get it set up over the next few hours. Let me know if anyone has any specific questions or picture requests.









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## Syed117

Yeah. This is why he probably had it on its side. 










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## bebbsie23

You guys are so lucky having these already. In the UK, Samsung issued a press release on Nov 13th saying they were available. It was a full week before I could even find a retailer that could take an order and even then I was told estimated delivery would be January (although it could be sooner). I'm living vicariously through the posts on here right now, so keep the pictures and reviews coming


----------



## Youval

bebbsie23 said:


> You guys are so lucky having these already. In the UK, Samsung issued a press release on Nov 13th saying they were available. It was a full week before I could even find a retailer that could take an order and even then I was told estimated delivery would be January (although it could be sooner). I'm living vicariously through the posts on here right now, so keep the pictures and reviews coming


You're better off then Canada! 
Not available in Canada and no info whatsoever on any sort of release.
Generally in Non Covid times i could just drive down from Montreal about an hour and half and i'm in the USA. 
But given that cross border travel is not possible that's not happening.
I did manage to buy it from a retailer and used a freight forwarder to have it shipped to the closest town to Montreal.
Scheduled to arrive tomorrow at my freight forwarder's location and i should have it by Monday!


----------



## Rpmartinez

Youval said:


> You're better off then Canada!
> Not available in Canada and no info whatsoever on any sort of release.
> Generally in Non Covid times i could just drive down from Montreal about an hour and half and i'm in the USA.
> But given that cross border travel is not possible that's not happening.
> I did manage to buy it from a retailer and used a freight forwarder to have it shipped to the closest town to Montreal.
> Scheduled to arrive tomorrow at my freight forwarder's location and i should have it by Monday!


I’m stationed in Fort Drum, NY about 3 hours south of Montreal. You ever need anything from down here lmk and I can ship it to you.

I went to Montreal a month before the border closures and it was amazing.. can’t wait to go back.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Youval

Rpmartinez said:


> I’m stationed in Fort Drum, NY about 3 hours south of Montreal. You ever need anything from down here lmk and I can ship it to you.
> 
> I went to Montreal a month before the border closures and it was amazing.. can’t wait to go back.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thank you so much!!
Really appreciate it. And likewise if you ever need anything from Montreal or Canada id be more then happy to help.
Montreal is a truly magical city but with Covid it's been hit pretty hard.
Looking forward to better times where we can each travel across our respective countries


----------



## JereyWolf

For the people who have set up screens, have you guys found the set-up dimensions to be accurate? Based on the current delivery estimates, it looks like I'll have my screen 10 days before the projector. I'd like to get my screen (Grandview Dynamique 120") mounted ahead of time if possible. The info from Samsung says the screen should be 15.8" above the base of the projector for A 120" screen...how accurate is that and how much vertical adjustment can be made with the adjustable feet on the projector?


----------



## avsenthusiast

MDesigns said:


> You should try to get it as close to perfect as possible without using the digital corrections, or try not to use those at all. Those always degrade the image quality someway.


Would the digital corrections affect only the edges or across the entire image?


----------



## avsenthusiast

Aztar35 said:


> As far as RBE, I did note in my review of a pre-production model that I saw RBE but it was on a "test" image. If you switch from dynamic mode to any of the less bright modes, they were not as prevalent.


Has anyone done more tests on the severity of RBE on cinema modes after calibration? I wonder how big of improvements are there, if any?


----------



## avsenthusiast

Youval said:


> You're better off then Canada!
> Not available in Canada and no info whatsoever on any sort of release.
> Generally in Non Covid times i could just drive down from Montreal about an hour and half and i'm in the USA.
> But given that cross border travel is not possible that's not happening.
> I did manage to buy it from a retailer and used a freight forwarder to have it shipped to the closest town to Montreal.


I'm in Vancouver, also eagerly waiting for Samsung's release, but I think Samsung is dealing with some supply chain issues in Canada, many of their products are out of stock, with no known restocking dates, not just this projector, I hope it's not a permanent issue here.

Which forwarder service did you end up using? I wonder if they deliver to BC.


----------



## Aztar35

avsscientist said:


> Has anyone done more tests on the severity of RBE on cinema modes after calibration? I wonder how big of improvements are there, if any?


If anyone has, I haven't seen it yet.


----------



## sudhanese2003

JereyWolf said:


> For the people who have set up screens, have you guys found the set-up dimensions to be accurate? Based on the current delivery estimates, it looks like I'll have my screen 10 days before the projector. I'd like to get my screen (Grandview Dynamique 120") mounted ahead of time if possible. The info from Samsung says the screen should be 15.8" above the base of the projector for A 120" screen...how accurate is is and how much vertical adjustment can be made with the adjustable feet on the projector?


 I found the numbers to be slightly inaccurate. I tried exactly 7.7 inches from screen and got a bigger frame.


----------



## JereyWolf

sudhanese2003 said:


> I found the numbers to be slightly inaccurate. I tried exactly 7.7 inches from screen and got a bigger frame.


So at 7.7" horizontally spaced from the screen the displayed image was larger than the 120" screen?
Do you happen to know the actual vertical offset distance for your 120" screen?


----------



## Bill97Z

I've seen these published number off on all UST projectors probably due to manufacturing tolerances. Your best bet is to wait until you can project an image on a wall, tape it off and then mount the screen. Also, don't forget the screen sticks out 1" or so from the wall, so the image on it will be smaller than what was projected on the wall, or the projector will need to be pulled back similar distance.



JereyWolf said:


> So at 7.7" horizontally spaced from the screen the displayed image was larger than the 120" screen?
> Do you happen to know the actual vertical offset distance for your 120" screen?


----------



## JereyWolf

Bill97Z said:


> I've seen these published number off on all UST projectors probably due to manufacturing tolerances. Your best bet is to wait until you can project an image on a wall, tape it off and then mount the screen. Also, don't forget the screen sticks out 1" or so from the wall, so the image on it will be smaller than what was projected on the wall, or the projector will need to be pulled back similar distance.


That all makes sense and is what I expect. I'm more concerned about the vertical offset, because that will be more difficult to adjust for...if I were to mount the screen ahead of time.


----------



## bennutt

JereyWolf said:


> For the people who have set up screens, have you guys found the set-up dimensions to be accurate? Based on the current delivery estimates, it looks like I'll have my screen 10 days before the projector. I'd like to get my screen (Grandview Dynamique 120") mounted ahead of time if possible. The info from Samsung says the screen should be 15.8" above the base of the projector for A 120" screen...how accurate is is and how much vertical adjustment can be made with the adjustable feet on the projector?


That is dead-on accurate and the exact screen I’m using. Pro-tip... material stitching is matched perfect to the frame so watch that the overlap is even everywhere or you will be ripping your fingers apart resetting springs.


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## MDesigns

avsscientist said:


> Would the digital corrections affect only the edges or across the entire image?


Big corrections has to affect the entire image.


----------



## avsenthusiast

MDesigns said:


> Big corrections has to affect the entire image.


I guess it depends on how the digital correction system is designed on the LSP9T. For example, LG's HU85LA divides digital correction into separate zones so adjustments made to one grid should not affect the others. 

Can someone post an image of the LSP9T's digital correction grid design? And also try making changes to one zone/grid and observe if the lines in other zones/grid remain straight/flat? This would be an hopeful indication that stretching or digital manipulation is only isolated to a corner/adjusted part.


----------



## MDesigns

avsscientist said:


> I guess it depends on how the digital correction system is designed on the LSP9T. For example, LG's HU85LA divides digital correction into separate zones so adjustments made to one grid should not affect the others.
> 
> Can someone post an image of the LSP9T's digital correction grid design? And also try making changes to one zone/grid and observe if the lines in other zones/grid remain straight/flat? This would be an hopeful indication that stretching or digital manipulation is only isolated to a corner/adjusted part.


Lets say you have top corners 4" out of the screen. You must shrink the whole image to make it fit the screen, otherwise it would distort the image. Only way to not affect the whole image is to crop the outer parts off, and thats not what it does.

Im not saying it ruins the picture, but I would make it at least almost perfect without using it.


----------



## Voracious

nrichmond said:


> Low to mid level LG
> 75UK6190PUB
> 
> It was purchased a little less than a year ago so it is fairly new - 4k, HDR10, HLG


The LCD looks far better than the projector, at least in the photos. Is that an artifact of the camera and photo or is that how it is in real life? I'd go see for myself, but COVID.


----------



## arpatel

donbraxton said:


> Yes. I also have panny 820 and Spears & Munsil calibration disc. It has HDR10+, DV, HDR10, HLG demo material.
> I played HDR10+ and DV, both looked good. DV picture was bit brighter than HDR10+.


----------



## arpatel

Does this projector has any DTM solution . How does it handle static HDR and DV signal .


----------



## bennutt

Voracious said:


> The LCD looks far better than the projector, at least in the photos. Is that an artifact of the camera and photo or is that how it is in real life? I'd go see for myself, but COVID.


Those using iPhones might want to look at the camera setting.











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## donbraxton

arpatel said:


> Does this projector has any DTM solution . How does it handle static HDR and DV signal .


I didnt see any specific DTM control in the settiings but I am assuming it has one since it is HDR10+ certified. I did play movies with DV from Netflix and the picture was good. Though I didnt see any notification from the projector which says that it was processing HDR signal.


----------



## omn33

Anyone else notice a significant difference in image quality using the native apps on this projector vs a 4k firestick? I originally had my firestick going through my denon 3700 and was having trouble with LFE signals going out. So I switched to using the native apps and ARC and was blown away at the video quality difference. So far, no issues with LFE this way either.


----------



## sudhanese2003

omn33 said:


> Anyone else notice a significant difference in image quality using the native apps on this projector vs a 4k firestick? I originally had my firestick going through my denon 3700 and was having trouble with LFE signals going out. So I switched to using the native apps and ARC and was blown away at the video quality difference. So far, no issues with LFE this way either.


see my post on native apps vs connected devices. I got a chromecast with google tv and its giving me 5.1 only on disney+ while fire tv is atmos passthrough. Native app is 5.1 only except netflix


----------



## bennutt

donbraxton said:


> I didnt see any specific DTM control in the settiings but I am assuming it has one since it is HDR10+ certified. I did play movies with DV from Netflix and the picture was good. Though I didnt see any notification from the projector which says that it was processing HDR signal.


For my tests I have two sources, Apple TV and an Oppo 203. Apple only forces Dolby Vision if it detects that it’s possible. Since the projector doesn’t show compatibility it will force 4K HDR instead.
The Oppo allows me to force Dolby Vision from the player side, but the result is HDR10 detected on the projector. When I put in a disc like Alita, it pops up with HDR10+


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## bdht

anyone tried watching sdr in the native gamut in higher ambient light? lights on/daytime and heavily oversaturated. can offset the washout and give the image some extra oomph

can also crank your brightness setting up and oversharpen for high ambient light viewing as well as adjusting gamma


----------



## nickaz99

Pardon the noob question..but then I am a noob to projectors. I've never considered one as I deemed them too far behind standard tvs when it came to living room (not cinema room) performance. This is the first projector I am aware of the has tv-like performance at a not ridiculous price( although still high for most). Indeed Samsung appears to be marketing this as a living room TV replacement. 

In order to make this advantageous over a tv I would project on a wall as opposed to a screen. A screen has all the negative features of a tv, particularly the WAF. So to my question. How can I maximize image quality without a screen? Is there a paint application that would help or other technique for wall projection?

Thank you!


----------



## bennutt

nickaz99 said:


> Pardon the noob question..but then I am a noob to projectors. I've never considered one as I deemed them too far behind standard tvs when it came to living room (not cinema room) performance. This is the first projector I am aware of the has tv-like performance at a not ridiculous price( although still high for most). Indeed Samsung appears to be marketing this as a living room TV replacement.
> 
> In order to make this advantageous over a tv I would project on a wall as opposed to a screen. A screen has all the negative features of a tv, particularly the WAF. So to my question. How can I maximize image quality without a screen? Is there a paint application that would help or other technique for wall projection?
> 
> Thank you!


Unless you have a _perfectly_ flat wall I would still consider a screen. Even if you have to use one that rises from the floor or down from the ceiling to meet the wife acceptance factor. Any slight bump will throw the geometry of the picture.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## easystar

When playing HDR10+ content, is there any indication that is actually playing in HDR10+ vs regular HDR10?

I’m playing from an Oppo 203 which is 10+ capable but all can get us an HDR10 badge to show up from the Oppo. I’m using 1917 and Alita Battle Angel which do have it.

This is my first Samsung and first HDR10+. I’m used to regular HDR10 and DV which clearly lets you know it’s active. I’ve been reading that it’s supposed to be automatic but I want to be sure it’s not something in my chain that’s blocking it.


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----------



## donbraxton

easystar said:


> When playing HDR10+ content, is there any indication that is actually playing in HDR10+ vs regular HDR10?
> 
> I’m playing from an Oppo 203 which is 10+ capable but all can get us an HDR10 badge to show up from the Oppo. I’m using 1917 and Alita Battle Angel which do have it.
> 
> This is my first Samsung and first HDR10+. I’m used to regular HDR10 and DV which clearly lets you know it’s active. I’ve been reading that it’s supposed to be automatic but I want to be sure it’s not something in my chain that’s blocking it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



When I played HDR10+ disc, Panny 820 shows HDR10+ notification on the screen. So I am assuming it is sending HDR10+ metadata to Samsung.


----------



## donbraxton

nickaz99 said:


> Pardon the noob question..but then I am a noob to projectors. I've never considered one as I deemed them too far behind standard tvs when it came to living room (not cinema room) performance. This is the first projector I am aware of the has tv-like performance at a not ridiculous price( although still high for most). Indeed Samsung appears to be marketing this as a living room TV replacement.
> 
> In order to make this advantageous over a tv I would project on a wall as opposed to a screen. A screen has all the negative features of a tv, particularly the WAF. So to my question. How can I maximize image quality without a screen? Is there a paint application that would help or other technique for wall projection?
> 
> Thank you!


You might want to checkout the DIY screen section in this forum. It has lot of information about DIY screen paint mix.


----------



## bennutt

easystar said:


> When playing HDR10+ content, is there any indication that is actually playing in HDR10+ vs regular HDR10?
> 
> I’m playing from an Oppo 203 which is 10+ capable but all can get us an HDR10 badge to show up from the Oppo. I’m using 1917 and Alita Battle Angel which do have it.
> 
> This is my first Samsung and first HDR10+. I’m used to regular HDR10 and DV which clearly lets you know it’s active. I’ve been reading that it’s supposed to be automatic but I want to be sure it’s not something in my chain that’s blocking it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes. The Oppo 203 playing Alita should briefly flash HDR10+ in the upper left corner.
Make sure the video settings on Oppo don’t have a forced Dolby Vision setting on the player-led side.

Another great trick I have discovered for Denon users.. if you hit the info button twice on any source it will show input and output source details. This is XBox Series X










And this is the Alita disc.












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## HUL

Does the projector have hdmi 2.1? Haven't seen that spec anywhere and have yet to receive a reply from Samsung. 
Waiting for delivery and figured I'd take advantage of the extended return period if it doesn't work out


----------



## HUL

bennutt said:


> Unless you have a _perfectly_ flat wall I would still consider a screen. Even if you have to use one that rises from the floor or down from the ceiling to meet the wife acceptance factor. Any slight bump will throw the geometry of the picture.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





nickaz99 said:


> Pardon the noob question..but then I am a noob to projectors. I've never considered one as I deemed them too far behind standard tvs when it came to living room (not cinema room) performance. This is the first projector I am aware of the has tv-like performance at a not ridiculous price( although still high for most). Indeed Samsung appears to be marketing this as a living room TV replacement.
> 
> In order to make this advantageous over a tv I would project on a wall as opposed to a screen. A screen has all the negative features of a tv, particularly the WAF. So to my question. How can I maximize image quality without a screen? Is there a paint application that would help or other technique for wall projection?
> 
> Thank you!


I am relatively new to the projector world, had a Benq 1085st before I ordered this one. We have a flat wall and once we painted with a flat almost off white color I couldn't tell the difference between the wall and the screen we had. Im waiting for delivery to see how this works with the LSP9T but given we use it in a room with ambient light, may have to invest in a screen. The vividstorm floor rising screen may be a candidate for me.


----------



## Run&Gun

nickaz99 said:


> Pardon the noob question..but then I am a noob to projectors. I've never considered one as I deemed them too far behind standard tvs when it came to living room (not cinema room) performance. This is the first projector I am aware of the has tv-like performance at a not ridiculous price( although still high for most). Indeed Samsung appears to be marketing this as a living room TV replacement.
> 
> In order to make this advantageous over a tv I would project on a wall as opposed to a screen. *A screen has all the negative features of a tv, particularly the WAF.* So to my question. How can I maximize image quality without a screen? Is there a paint application that would help or other technique for wall projection?
> 
> Thank you!


You guys crack me up. "Must please wife at all costs... Happy wife, happy life... etc."


----------



## nickaz99

Run&Gun said:


> You guys crack me up. "Must please wife at all costs... Happy wife, happy life... etc."


R&G,

Strategy consists of choosing ones battles and ones retreats. 

You must be an excellent tactician.

🙂


----------



## bdht

Was just thinking... at 2600 lumens, this projector could also achieve 17fl on a 100" 0.2 gain black material. At a lower gain it would eat alot of ambient light as well.

Unfortunately the only ones Im aware of are Gerriets Optiblack 2.0 and Strong MDIs Blackview, both of which are hybrid rear projection materials and low resolution.

Is anyone aware of any other ultra low gain black materials? We could be entering an era of higher contrast high ambient light projection with black projection surfaces as the brightness and efficiency of these projectors are impressive.

Has actual power draw been measured? The specs report 410w peak power consumption.


----------



## bennutt

HUL said:


> Does the projector have hdmi 2.1? Haven't seen that spec anywhere and have yet to receive a reply from Samsung.
> Waiting for delivery and figured I'd take advantage of the extended return period if it doesn't work out


It does not have 2.1
It has 2.0 with eArc.


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----------



## bennutt

HUL said:


> I am relatively new to the projector world, had a Benq 1085st before I ordered this one. We have a flat wall and once we painted with a flat almost off white color I couldn't tell the difference between the wall and the screen we had. Im waiting for delivery to see how this works with the LSP9T but given we use it in a room with ambient light, may have to invest in a screen. The vividstorm floor rising screen may be a candidate for me.


The difference is the direction of projection.
Your Benq was aimed AT the wall.
A UST is aimed UP the wall, so any little bump will throw the geometry off from that point. One of my earliest posts had a picture on a brown wall.. had wavy lines all over the place.


----------



## Run&Gun

bennutt said:


> The difference is the direction of projection.
> Your Benq was aimed AT the wall.
> A UST is aimed UP the wall, so any little bump will throw the geometry off from that point. One of my earliest posts had a picture on a brown wall.. had wavy lines all over the place.


And create shadows. Even with a screen, it must be perfectly flat. I have an ES Aeon UST screen that is the old Velcro tensioned design that is going to have to go back, because it can’t keep tension in the upper left and it creates enough of a wave in the screen in that area to cause shadows and waves, that would probably not be created/visible with a standard throw projector.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

bdht said:


> Was just thinking... at 2600 lumens, this projector could also achieve 17fl on a 100" 0.2 gain black material. At a lower gain it would eat alot of ambient light as well.
> 
> Unfortunately the only ones Im aware of are Gerriets Optiblack 2.0 and Strong MDIs Blackview, both of which are hybrid rear projection materials and low resolution.
> 
> Is anyone aware of any other ultra low gain black materials? We could be entering an era of higher contrast high ambient light projection with black projection surfaces as the brightness and efficiency of these projectors are impressive.
> 
> Has actual power draw been measured? The specs report 410w peak power consumption.


I think the new soft fresnel screens look the most promising in that regard though the two I've seen have a positive gain (IIRC as high as 2.0) focused on commercial applications.

I'm sure we'll see negative gain soft fresnel screen soon. If think .4 would be the lowest most would want to go though.


----------



## omn33

sudhanese2003 said:


> see my post on native apps vs connected devices. I got a chromecast with google tv and its giving me 5.1 only on disney+ while fire tv is atmos passthrough. Native app is 5.1 only except netflix


I don't use AppleTV but can confirm that I am seeing the same with Disney+ on Firestick vs native app. I confirmed that the native Prime app will play Atmos. It didn't show Jack Ryan as Atmos in the app but when I played it that is what the AVR displayed. 

Are you seeing the same differences in picture quality for native apps vs Firestick? I just spent a lot getting a 5.1.4 in ceiling Atmos setup, but the PQ difference is enough that I'll run D+ in the native app with 5.1 instead of the Firestick with Atmos. Hopefully the native D+ app gets an update to support Atmos.


----------



## omn33

I'll also add that when looking at the menus in the native app, the color looks crazy oversaturated, but when playing content it is incredible. I also feel like the native apps reduce speckle vs the Firestick which really isn't an issue unless you are very close to the screen. Black levels and contrast are wonderful IMO. I haven't calibrated and just changed the setting to Filmmaker mode so its the out of the box settings. Also using a Vividstorm screen for what its worth. I'm coming from 65" panny VT65 plasma and a 2015 benq HT1075.

I will add that I definitely see RBE with this projector but I can live with that (and have for quite a while with my previous benq DLP projector). it is especially prevalent in dark screens with white letters like title screens or a dark scene with white streetlights or something like that.


----------



## Syed117

It's been a busy few days so haven't had much time to report back.

A few thoughts:


Getting the projected image to fit without adjustment from the menu was impossible for me.
Image quality looks great so far but I haven't had much time to mess with the settings.
Have not yet had a chance to play games.
Unit itself is very quiet.
4k Blu rays looks fantastic. Ran 1917 in HDR+ and it looked amazing.


----------



## sudhanese2003

omn33 said:


> I'll also add that when looking at the menus in the native app, the color looks crazy oversaturated, but when playing content it is incredible. I also feel like the native apps reduce speckle vs the Firestick which really isn't an issue unless you are very close to the screen. Black levels and contrast are wonderful IMO. I haven't calibrated and just changed the setting to Filmmaker mode so its the out of the box settings. Also using a Vividstorm screen for what its worth. I'm coming from 65" panny VT65 plasma and a 2015 benq HT1075.
> 
> I will add that I definitely see RBE with this projector but I can live with that (and have for quite a while with my previous benq DLP projector). it is especially prevalent in dark screens with white letters like title screens or a dark scene with white streetlights or something like that.


Interesting. I did not see a huge difference in PQ in native Vs. firestick however the audio format of Atmos supported by firestick is enough to use it instead. I spent a lot of time calibrating the audio for my setup and it is now how I would like it, picture is a different issue and I am waiting on others to chip in with settings suggestions. I sit like 8 feet from the screen and with the XY 120 PET, i have not seen any RBE or speckle. I am planning to do something about the box border and will report back how it looks.


----------



## bennutt

Has anyone done "actual" calibration settings yet? Still running mostly off the Standard setting here with tweaks to contrast or shadow detail.


----------



## JereyWolf

I set mine up tonight, projecting on a tan wall. Wow, I'm shocked at how good it looks directly on the wall with the curtains drawn. This is in an open concept living room, open to the rest of the house so there is plenty of ambient light coming from the rest of the house. Dialing in the image shape and focus was pretty easy. I'm really excited to build my Grandview Dynamique 120" tomorrow. I tried to take some photos....but none of them came close to how it looks in person.


----------



## sudhanese2003

omn33 said:


> I don't use AppleTV but can confirm that I am seeing the same with Disney+ on Firestick vs native app. I confirmed that the native Prime app will play Atmos. It didn't show Jack Ryan as Atmos in the app but when I played it that is what the AVR displayed.
> 
> Are you seeing the same differences in picture quality for native apps vs Firestick? I just spent a lot getting a 5.1.4 in ceiling Atmos setup, but the PQ difference is enough that I'll run D+ in the native app with 5.1 instead of the Firestick with Atmos. Hopefully the native D+ app gets an update to support Atmos.


I have been playing around with many streaming devices and compared pq/aq with native apps. I used fire tv 4k, apple tv 4k, chromecast with google tv and the native apps. I have to add that apple tv 4k by far seems to be the device to beat with both elements. In netflix, its showing both dolby vision and dolby atmos and i know dolby vision is not supported natively in samsung devices as they have their own format of hdr10+ but not sure if its actually coming out. I watched end game on disney+ in multiple devices and saw the best levels with superior clarity with apple tv. The native app seems a bit dark and not what i would prefer. All of these are without any picture calibration with decent audio calibration.


----------



## bennutt

Mixed reviews on Lucy, but it still stands as one of the best test discs I know of for displays.




















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bennutt

I see new firmware is available today even if the projector doesn’t see an auto-update.
I don’t see info anywhere for “what changed” and I found the update while searching for a convergence setting.
I’m noticing a red drop shadow under white text which tells me something is a bit off.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JereyWolf

In the last day and a half of watching various content I've noticed a strange effect that I'll describe as cycling saturation...the image seems to shift red and then come back to normal quickly, sort of subtle too but definitely noticable. I've seen it on the native netflix app and on netflix streaming from Nvidia shield. It's happening in sdr and HDR content. Anyone else seen this effect or have an idea what would be causing it?


----------



## GinPS

My media room can be made dark but we like to watch with sliding glass door open during the day so some light from the side. What is best screen for this projector in that context? Thanks.


----------



## Genzi




----------



## Genzi

cycling saturation Red ?


----------



## bennutt

Genzi said:


> cycling saturation Red ?


I haven’t encountered this. What is the source you are using?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JereyWolf

bennutt said:


> I haven’t encountered this. What is the source you are using?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It's hard to say whether what I'm seeing is the same as what Genzi is seeing...the photo doesn't seem like an accurate representation. I've seen it on native apps and from Nvidia shield. I've noticed it most often in scenes with a face on camera, it was pretty repeatable during many of the interview scenes from The Office.


----------



## Genzi

individual image contents in the color red have a clearly too high contrast. it's difficult to record with a camera. it is visible in SDR and HDR.


----------



## Genzi




----------



## Genzi




----------



## Genzi

it is visible in every picture mode.


----------



## Genzi




----------



## JereyWolf

Genzi said:


> individual image contents in the color red have a clearly too high contrast. it's difficult to record with a camera. it is visible in SDR and HDR.


 I think many people have seen the same appearance of oversaturated reds in general from the out of the box settings on this projector. 

The specific issue I'm seeing is a slow pulsing of high to lower saturation that appears in certain scenes.... it's almost like I was switching back and forth between low and high on the contrast enhancer setting...but it's happening automatically.


----------



## Mikenificent1

JereyWolf said:


> I think many people have seen the same appearance of oversaturated reds in general from the out of the box settings on this projector.
> 
> The specific issue I'm seeing is a slow pulsing of high to lower saturation that appears in certain scenes.... it's almost like I was switching back and forth between low and high on the contrast enhancer setting...but it's happening automatically.


have you tried the latest firmware update?


----------



## Genzi

the latest for Germany is

Version 1398.2
I Hope they can Fix the RBE on the LSP9T a little bit .
For me in dark Scenes it is too much.


----------



## bennutt

Genzi said:


> the latest for Germany is
> 
> Version 1398.2
> I Hope they can Fix the RBE on the LSP9T a little bit .
> For me in dark Scenes it is too much.


Did you try downloading directly from the website?
I had to load mine with USB, the projector did not detect the update yet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JereyWolf

Mikenificent1 said:


> have you tried the latest firmware update?


I just installed the new firmware this morning...had to do it over usb. The pulsing saturation effect is still happening. I tried again with the native netflix app and streaming from Nvidia shield. It's very repeatable in certain scenes. I tried to film it, but it doesn't really show up well on camera. I turned contrast enhancer off and that made no difference on this effect.


----------



## Genzi

Update via the Samsung server does not work. only Manuel via USB


----------



## jeffp021

Do we know what the changes are for this firmware update? Everything is running well for me so far . Hate to mess and introduce possible issues.
#firmwarejaded


----------



## dcheuk

Just set up my LSP9T a couple of days ago with a Grandview Dynamique 110 and a Sonos Arc and Sub. Overall pretty happy with the system. 

Couple of questions. Trying to see if the projector is displaying in 4k or not. Is there a 'display' button/menu option that will show on the screen what is the current resolution being displayed? Trying to see if netflix is playing in 4k.

Also, when playing 4k youtube videos, in the stats for nerds box, the Viewport will only say 1920/1080 but the Current says 3810x1080. Anyone know how to get the Viewport to show the full resolution?


----------



## CSB282000

sudhanese2003 said:


> View attachment 3057072
> 
> 
> View attachment 3057073
> 
> 
> The setup that i have and the seating height and position gives good effect with the center channel. Clearance was not a problem as much as i thought.


I've been looking all over for a stand like this. Where did you get it? I think the persona center might be too wide but hopefully not.


----------



## sudhanese2003

CSB282000 said:


> I've been looking all over for a stand like this. Where did you get it? I think the persona center might be too wide but hopefully not.


i got this almost 10 years back at bestbuy but looks like their current offerings have slightly different design and spec. I saw one very similar at costco for like $199. It just happened that the height seemed to work out for my ceiling and screen positioning


----------



## bennutt

CSB282000 said:


> I've been looking all over for a stand like this. Where did you get it? I think the persona center might be too wide but hopefully not.


I just hacked a cheap Lack IKEA stand until I find something better.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JereyWolf

My solution for center channel placement is a custom built console made mostly from plywood. My center channel is 33”x 12"x 15"....so the placement options are pretty limited with this projector. The speaker sits on a stand to angle it up toward the seats. The main stand I built is basically just two individual cabinets spaced wide enough for my speaker, with a thick top across the whole thing. I could imagine something like this being built from two purchased rack style cabinets and "solid workbench top" like what can be purchased at the big box hardware stores.

This is a wip photo, my angled center channel stand isn't finished, so I've got a temporary thing there for now.


----------



## survivor

dcheuk said:


> Just set up my LSP9T a couple of days ago with a Grandview Dynamique 110 and a Sonos Arc and Sub. Overall pretty happy with the system.


Quick question with regards to the Sonos ARC connection to LSP9T. I assume you are connecting the Sonos ARC to the LSP9T eARC HDMI input port?


----------



## dcheuk

survivor said:


> Quick question with regards to the Sonos ARC connection to LSP9T. I assume you are connecting the Sonos ARC to the LSP9T eARC HDMI input port?


Yes I am. I am running my directv through my xbox and that is going to HDMI 2. Any thoughts on my other questions?


----------



## JereyWolf

dcheuk said:


> Couple of questions. Trying to see if the projector is displaying in 4k or not. Is there a 'display' button/menu option that will show on the screen what is the current resolution being displayed? Trying to see if netflix is playing in 4k.


To get to info, press the button on the remote with 4 colored dots, then an option to see info pops up.


----------



## JereyWolf

Anyone know exactly what the color space setting is doing? There is an "auto" setting and a "native" setting...they are clearly different....but what would the auto setting use other than the native color space? I don't see a way to verify what the current color space is either.


----------



## donbraxton

bennutt said:


> Mixed reviews on Lucy, but it still stands as one of the best test discs I know of for display
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Also I enjoyed Valerian , Aquaman and Passengers for the HDR.


----------



## donbraxton

Update on my setup.

Still deciding on the screen material. Ordered Elite Screens Cine gray 135" ( Just Screen Material). used double sided tape to stick it to the wall. I need to fix the edges but for scope, it is fine.











Contrast improved, the picture brightness reduced , as expected. But it is still able to throw 140" image and has enough juice for HDR.

Some pics with the grey screen. I still need to fix the light reflection from ceiling and side walls.

The colors are more natural in person. The phone camera is not able to capture the actual colors.


----------



## Bill97Z

I don't think the cinegray is supposed to be used with an UST projector projection angle which is why your contrast is so poor.



donbraxton said:


> Update on my setup.
> 
> Still deciding on the screen material. Ordered Elite Screens Cine gray 135" ( Just Screen Material). Using double sided tape. I need to fix the edges but for scope, it is fine.
> 
> View attachment 3061856
> 
> 
> 
> Contrast improved, the picture brightness reduced , as expected. But it is still able to throw 140" image and still has enough juice for HDR.
> 
> Some pics with the grey screen. The colors are more natural in person. The phone camera is not able to capture the actual colors.
> 
> 
> View attachment 3061861
> 
> View attachment 3061862
> 
> 
> View attachment 3061865
> 
> 
> View attachment 3061868


----------



## donbraxton

Bill97Z said:


> I don't think the cinegray is supposed to be used with an UST projector projection angle which is why your contrast is so poor.


Any specific reason why it shouldnt be used?. I was under the impression that gray screen will improve the contrast of DLP projector.
Note that this is *not *Cinegray 3D or 5D just Cinegray without any ALR.


----------



## Aztar35

donbraxton said:


> Any specific reason why it shouldnt be used?. I was under the impression that gray screen will improve the contrast of DLP projector.
> Note that this is *not *Cinegray 3D or 5D just Cinegray without any ALR.


It might work okay, but negative gain screens really don't improve contrast; they give the appearance of better black levels by having a lower tint baseline for both white and black, so you'll proportionately have your whites reduced too.

You will definitely have to improve on reducing your room reflections though if it isn't an ALR screen.


----------



## Run&Gun

donbraxton said:


> Any specific reason why it shouldnt be used?. I was under the impression that gray screen will improve the contrast of DLP projector.
> Note that this is *not *Cinegray 3D or 5D just Cinegray without any ALR.


It's been addressed numerous times here. UST projectors are projecting at very extreme angles. Almost directly below the screen instead of almost directly in front of it, like from a traditional throw projector. UST screens are designed to "catch" the light(image) coming from underneath and reflect it forward towards the viewer in a very uniform manor.










The images posted above look pretty poor, even for cell phone pictures. Your image would be MUCH better with a dedicated UST screen. I think you would be shocked if you got a dedicated UST screen (like the Elite Aeon UST) and compared the image to what you're getting with your current screen.

My UST projector(LG HU85) and the Elite Aeon 120" UST screen.


----------



## donbraxton

Aztar35 said:


> It might work okay, but negative gain screens really don't improve contrast; they give the appearance of better black levels by having a lower tint baseline for both white and black, so you'll proportionately have your whites reduced too.
> 
> You will definitely have to improve on reducing your room reflections though if it isn't an ALR screen.


Yes it did reduce the whites and overall brightness.


----------



## donbraxton

Run&Gun said:


> It's been addressed numerous times here. UST projectors are projecting at very extreme angles. Almost directly below the screen instead of almost directly in front of in, like from a traditional throw. UST screens are designed to "catch" the light(image) coming from underneath and reflect it forward towards the viewer in a very uniform manor.
> 
> View attachment 3061936
> 
> 
> The images posted above look pretty poor, even for cell phone pictures. Your image would be MUCH better with a dedicated UST screen. I think you would be shocked if you got a dedicated UST screen (like the Elite Aeon UST) and compared the image to what you're getting with your current screen.
> 
> My UST projector(LG HU85) and the Elite Aeon 120" UST screen.
> View attachment 3061937


I am planning to have a screen bigger than 120" and that is the reason I am experimenting with wall & different screen material other than UST ALR. I have a option for dedicated home theater with complete light control and at this price range I dont see any normal throw (3) laser projector with such lumens and wide color gamut. I will try with UST screen and see if the picture performance makes me forget the screen size.

thanks for your feedback.


----------



## Run&Gun

donbraxton said:


> I am planning to have a screen bigger than 120" and that is the reason I am experimenting with wall & different screen material other than UST ALR. I have a option for dedicated home theater with complete light control and at this price range I dont see any normal throw (3) laser projector with such lumens and wide color gamut. I will try with UST screen and see if the picture performance makes me forget the screen size.
> 
> thanks for your feedback.


Currently UST screens do top out at 120"(I'm not aware of any mainstream screen company with one bigger). That is one of the drawbacks(besides price). Everything being equal, we all want the biggest image we can get, but I think you'll really notice the difference.


----------



## mcollin6

Run&Gun said:


> Currently UST screens do top out at 120"(I'm not aware of any mainstream screen company with one bigger). That is one of the drawbacks(besides price). Everything being equal, we all want the biggest image we can get, but I think you'll really notice the difference.


Elite Screens EPV have a 123” Darkstar UST 2 screen that is 123”. The caveat is that the LSP9T throw ratio is inside the minimum 0.3 specification. Technically, this will result in some degree of hotspotting at the bottom of the screen, though it may not be objectionable, as this is the same throw ratio spec’d for the Aeon CLR 1 and many in this group have had good results.


----------



## mcollin6

mcollin6 said:


> Elite Screens EPV have a 123” Darkstar UST 2 screen that is 123”. The caveat is that the LSP9T throw ratio is inside the minimum 0.3 specification. Technically, this will result in some degree of hotspotting at the bottom of the screen, though it may not be objectionable, as this is the same throw ratio spec’d for the Aeon CLR 1 and many in this group have had good results.


This screen uses the same material...



https://www.amazon.com/Screens-Fixed-Frame-Projector-Screen/dp/B08L6LQY44


----------



## AVcali

Quick question....first time projector owner and bought the LS9PT and am loving it and had some issues with the PS5 that seems to be resolved and it plays well with my xbox series x....my question is I bought this from Best Buy and still have the option for extended warranty but it would cost 850$.....for such a pricey purchase is the geek squad extended warranty a wise purchase? Thanks in advance!


----------



## Luminated67

Just a thought but I wonder will it be possible to run a UST on a reverse screen?

A bit like the old projector TV of the late 90s


----------



## Bill97Z

Elite has a new CLR3 screen that is 125" That is the biggest I have seen.

Akia has a CLR4 screen that is 123" on amazon that many are using with UST



Run&Gun said:


> Currently UST screens do top out at 120"(I'm not aware of any mainstream screen company with one bigger). That is one of the drawbacks(besides price). Everything being equal, we all want the biggest image we can get, but I think you'll really notice the difference.


----------



## Bill97Z

Here is a picture from the VAVA thread. Same scene you posted but on a CLR screen. Look at the difference!












donbraxton said:


> Update on my setup.
> 
> Still deciding on the screen material. Ordered Elite Screens Cine gray 135" ( Just Screen Material). used double sided tape to stick it to the wall. I need to fix the edges but for scope, it is fine.
> 
> View attachment 3061856
> 
> 
> 
> Contrast improved, the picture brightness reduced , as expected. But it is still able to throw 140" image and has enough juice for HDR.
> 
> Some pics with the grey screen. I still need to fix the light reflection from ceiling and side walls.
> 
> The colors are more natural in person. The phone camera is not able to capture the actual colors.
> 
> 
> View attachment 3061861
> 
> View attachment 3061862
> 
> 
> View attachment 3061865
> 
> 
> View attachment 3061868


----------



## survivor

AVcali said:


> Quick question....first time projector owner and bought the LS9PT and am loving it and had some issues with the PS5 that seems to be resolved and it plays well with my xbox series x....my question is I bought this from Best Buy and still have the option for extended warranty but it would cost 850$.....for such a pricey purchase is the geek squad extended warranty a wise purchase? Thanks in advance!


About the extended warranty, not sure whether you would be needing it. I think extended warranty prey into human nature of worrying something would go wrong. While there are instances where things do go wrong, but the likelihood of that happening is pretty low. I have extended warranties on most of the major appliances at home, but if I were to do it again I will most likely not going to do it. This is my personal thought and choice on extended warranty.


----------



## survivor

Just placed an order for LSP9T, Stewart Balon Edge UST screen, Sonos home theater and Apple TV 4K over the weekend. Can't wait to finally setup my home theater!


----------



## survivor

CSB282000 said:


> I've been looking all over for a stand like this. Where did you get it? I think the persona center might be too wide but hopefully not.


I think I found the exact same stand at Wayfair.

The IKEA LACK TV unit came pretty close to this and it is fairly cheap at $59.99.


----------



## kevinxxg

I want to share some photos about the RBE on my LS9PT. It is really annoying when looking at some texts or subtitles.
My current solution is to change the font color from white to teal/yellow, which can help mitigate the RBE, but it's still there if I watch it closely. 

BTW, there is no setting to dim the light output, sometimes it's too bright to watch videos in a totally dark room. So I have to turn on some lights to reduce the contrast. 
However, I really like its rich color and sharpness (way much better than my old Epson 2150). So I'm still hesitating if I should keep it. 
Put a side-by-side comparison between Epson 2150 (top) and LS9PT (bottom)


----------



## JereyWolf

I uploaded a few videos to Youtube....not sure if they have any real value considering how much different they look compared to the in-person image. I'm wondering if the magenta tint that we get from our cameras is reduced when the projector is calibrated.

Pc games are really impressive on this projector. Input lag is definitely noticeable when using a mouse, but I feel like I quickly adjusted to it and it didn't have a significant impact on the experience playing FPS games.
When first set the projector up, the rainbow effect was very noticeable and kind of distracting....I was also well primed to look for it after reading this thread. After using it for 6 days, I honestly think I'm either adjusting to it, or just noticing it less.

One of my favorite demo scenes:





Assasin's Creed Valhalla on PC (not HDR)


----------



## MDesigns

kevinxxg said:


> I want to share some photos about the RBE on my LS9PT. It is really annoying when looking at some texts or subtitles.
> My current solution is to change the font color from white to teal/yellow, which can help mitigate the RBE, but it's still there if I watch it closely.
> 
> BTW, there is no setting to dim the light output, sometimes it's too bright to watch videos in a totally dark room. So I have to turn on some lights to reduce the contrast.
> However, I really like its rich color and sharpness (way much better than my old Epson 2150). So I'm still hesitating if I should keep it.
> Put a side-by-side comparison between Epson 2150 (top) and LS9PT (bottom)
> View attachment 3062416
> 
> View attachment 3062415
> View attachment 3062417
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3062418
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3062419


Do you mean the red and blue "sides" of the white text? That is not RBE, that is CA(Chromatic Aberration) caused by imperfect lens system: Chromatic aberration - Wikipedia

In RBE you see flashes of the different colors and it can't really be photographed. That is caused by too slow cycling of the lasers. I wonder if they can speed up the lasers up to same speed as led versions.


----------



## survivor

I already have a LSP9T on order but not sure whether I'm susceptible to RBE sensitivity. If there any video samples that I can play with the projector once it arrived to see how bad the RBE is?


----------



## JereyWolf

survivor said:


> I already have a LSP9T on order but not sure whether I'm susceptible to RBE sensitivity. If there any video samples that I can play with the projector once it arrived to see how bad the RBE is?


I don't think it's something you'll have to go looking for....but I think dark scenes with highlights are a common source.


----------



## survivor

dcheuk said:


> Just set up my LSP9T a couple of days ago with a Grandview Dynamique 110 and a Sonos Arc and Sub. Overall pretty happy with the system.
> 
> Couple of questions. Trying to see if the projector is displaying in 4k or not. Is there a 'display' button/menu option that will show on the screen what is the current resolution being displayed? Trying to see if netflix is playing in 4k.
> 
> Also, when playing 4k youtube videos, in the stats for nerds box, the Viewport will only say 1920/1080 but the Current says 3810x1080. Anyone know how to get the Viewport to show the full resolution?
> View attachment 3061266
> 
> View attachment 3061271


A little off topic from the LSP9T. I'm curious about the Sonos ARC low position. Do you see any impact to the sound experience by placing it so low? I'm on the same boat and will probably have to place my Sonos ARC as low due to the projection screen taking up all the wall space. Secondly by placing it on the second tier wouldn't the up-firing Atmos speakers be blocked by the first shelve where the projector sits? Any feedback would be very much appreciated.


----------



## kevinxxg

MDesigns said:


> Do you mean the red and blue "sides" of the white text? That is not RBE, that is CA(Chromatic Aberration) caused by imperfect lens system: Chromatic aberration - Wikipedia
> 
> In RBE you see flashes of the different colors and it can't really be photographed. That is caused by too slow cycling of the lasers. I wonder if they can speed up the lasers up to same speed as led versions.


Wow, thanks for the info! I didn't know the CA before. Is it normal on most of projectors? 
Or is there any way to fix it? 
I'm not sure if it's flaw on this projector that I should ask for a repair.


----------



## santiagodraco

Sent my LSP7T back and received my refund, ordered the 9T today. Should be here next Monday. Can't wait!


----------



## survivor

santiagodraco said:


> Sent my LSP7T back and received my refund, ordered the 9T today. Should be here next Monday. Can't wait!


That's fast. Where do you order it from?


----------



## santiagodraco

JereyWolf said:


> For the people who have been using the LSP9T with a UST/ALR screen, do you feel that this projector can be a viable living room TV replacement if you only have partial control of ambient light?


Definitely. I had the LSP7T in a partially light controlled room and it was great but am upgrading to the 9T. It's my daily driver.


----------



## MDesigns

kevinxxg said:


> Wow, thanks for the info! I didn't know the CA before. Is it normal on most of projectors?
> Or is there any way to fix it?
> I'm not sure if it's flaw on this projector that I should ask for a repair.


In standard throw projectors cheaper ones exhibit it more and more expensive ones with better lenses less or none. I don't have experience with UST's, but the lens angle and throw is pretty extreme on these so it probably is harder to make that kind of lens. Maybe ask others to compare? If it can be seen to your seat I wouldnt like it.


----------



## JereyWolf

santiagodraco said:


> Definitely. I had the LSP7T in a partially light controlled room and it was great but am upgrading to the 9T. It's my daily driver.


I have replaced my 75" Sony with the 120" Grandview Dynamique and even in my open living room with huge windows directly across from the screen, it still looks pretty good in the daytime.


----------



## dcheuk

survivor said:


> A little off topic from the LSP9T. I'm curious about the Sonos ARC low position. Do you see any impact to the sound experience by placing it so low? I'm on the same boat and will probably have to place my Sonos ARC as low due to the projection screen taking up all the wall space. Secondly by placing it on the second tier wouldn't the up-firing Atmos speakers be blocked by the first shelve where the projector sits? Any feedback would be very much appreciated.


Yeah, everything is a compromise. I really didn't want to put it that low but the height of the screen for my room is what drove me to get that tv stand. You can see that I place it all the way in front of the stand so that the upper firing speakers aren't blocked but now the side speakers will hit the supports. Also, my room isn't the best for sound. That room has a really high ceiling. Long story long, I'm not the happiest with it so I just ordered a pair of Sonos Ones to put in the back and hopefully that will fill out the sound. How much of that is the low placement I don't know. Maybe I'll put it up on a chair to see if it sounds any different. FWIW, the arc is replacing a Yamaha YSP 4300 sound bar.


----------



## donbraxton

Bill97Z said:


> Here is a picture from the VAVA thread. Same scene you posted but on a CLR screen. Look at the difference!
> 
> View attachment 3062063



covered the side walls & ceiling with a black fabric from walmart ($2/yard) and changed the picture settings.
This is a temporary room with light color carpet and furniture. Dedicated home theatre will take sometime to be ready.










There is a slight red tint in skin tone but the phone camera is exaggerating the red tint. Some more pics attached.



Run&Gun said:


> Currently UST screens do top out at 120"(I'm not aware of any mainstream screen company with one bigger). That is one of the drawbacks(besides price). Everything being equal, we all want the biggest image we can get, but I think you'll really notice the difference.


Will try it out with a UST.


Has anyone done calibration of this projector?. May be with a proper CMS values, it will reduce the red tint.


----------



## santiagodraco

survivor said:


> That's fast. Where do you order it from?


Sorry, missed your question. I ordered from Amazon. Same with the LSP7T I returned.


----------



## Rpmartinez

santiagodraco said:


> Sorry, missed your question. I ordered from Amazon. Same with the LSP7T I returned.


If you don’t mind me asking, what did you not like about the LSP7T that caused you to upgrade to the 9T?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## santiagodraco

Rpmartinez said:


> If you don’t mind me asking, what did you not like about the LSP7T that caused you to upgrade to the 9T?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I had a problem with focus at the edges. I also found the blacks a bit washed out. I do think it's a very good projector but I'm wanting a bit more color accuracy and brightness so decided to bump up to the 9 to see how it goes.

Keep in mind I also have both Optomas (the P1 and P2) and the LSP7T was better than both in every category and especially in overall platform stability and quality. I won't touch another Optoma if I can help it. Cheap software, cheap buggy remote and horrible HDMI stability.

Way I see it is how much would a bigger TV of that size cost me... 50k?  So I figure if the quality is even better than the 7 (I'm sure it's quite a bit better) then I'm getting a steal!


----------



## Rpmartinez

santiagodraco said:


> I had a problem with focus at the edges. I also found the blacks a bit washed out. I do think it's a very good projector but I'm wanting a bit more color accuracy and brightness so decided to bump up to the 9 to see how it goes.
> 
> Keep in mind I also have both Optomas (the P1 and P2) and the LSP7T was better than both in every category and especially in overall platform stability and quality. I won't touch another Optoma if I can help it. Cheap software, cheap buggy remote and horrible HDMI stability.
> 
> Way I see it is how much would a bigger TV of that size cost me... 50k?  So I figure if the quality is even better than the 7 (I'm sure it's quite a bit better) then I'm getting a steal!


Okay I’m looking at getting the 7 since that’s in my price range but can’t find any information on how much of the bt2020 and P3 color space it can produce. Did any of the packaging items that came with it state what it can do?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JereyWolf

santiagodraco said:


> Keep in mind I also have both Optomas (the P1 and P2) and the LSP7T was better than both in every category and especially in overall platform stability and quality. I won't touch another Optoma if I can help it. Cheap software, cheap buggy remote and horrible HDMI stability.


I'm really interested in hearing your comparisons, considering your experience with each of these projectors.


----------



## bennutt

MDesigns said:


> In standard throw projectors cheaper ones exhibit it more and more expensive ones with better lenses less or none. I don't have experience with UST's, but the lens angle and throw is pretty extreme on these so it probably is harder to make that kind of lens. Maybe ask others to compare? If it can be seen to your seat I wouldnt like it.


My issue is that it doesn’t seem consistent.
One evening it seems to line up decent.
The next, a very red drop shadow on white text of all sizes. Driving me crazy.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## kevinxxg

bennutt said:


> My issue is that it doesn’t seem consistent.
> One evening it seems to line up decent.
> The next, a very red drop shadow on white text of all sizes. Driving me crazy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It looks like I’m not the only one who encountered this issue.


----------



## Larry J

I took a fast picture here with my phone. I don't really see what your pictures showed. I do see some CA but I've seen much worse. Can't see it at all from just backing away a small distance. I find the text to be fine on a windows desktop.

I see lots of pictures on here with the red magenta tint. Phones are making pictures look that way I hope. I know they will because I saw it also and wouldn't post the bad ones. Adjustments before taking it can help. But then went to a camera for the rest. But if the Samsung had looked that way for real I wouldn't have been thrilled and gone straight to correct the gray scale, while fussing about it. But I don't see it at all though. Film maker mode maybe had a little red tint at first but wasn't drastic. I use that mode at times but not as big of a fan of that like some are.


----------



## Larry J

kevinxxg said:


> It looks like I’m not the only one who encountered this issue.


Ok, well the picture isn't in the other post above this one and it also didn't show the reply. So can't delete that one so I put the picture here.


----------



## Bill97Z

I don't know the answer but the other single laser units (VAVA, Optoma) cover about 80-85% of P3. I would think the 7 being a single laser DLP will have similar color and contrast, maybe different brightness. The biggest drawback of the 7 IMO is the throw distance, it sits furthest from the wall and the bottom of image is highest from the projector out of just about all the other UST options.



Rpmartinez said:


> Okay I’m looking at getting the 7 since that’s in my price range but can’t find any information on how much of the bt2020 and P3 color space it can produce. Did any of the packaging items that came with it state what it can do?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bennutt

Larry J said:


> Ok, well the picture isn't in the other post above this one and it also didn't show the reply. So can't delete that one so I put the picture here.
> View attachment 3063122


While I do see a red drop shadow in your picture, it’s more in line toward what would be acceptable.
I can see mine from seating distance and don’t know what can be done about it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bblackbu

Sorry if I missed it, but could somebody that knows calibrations way better than I post their calibration settings for the LSP9T? I just received our unit yesterday (shipping took about 1 week) and I'd like to get this as dialed-in as possible. Thanks in advance!


----------



## bennutt

bblackbu said:


> Sorry if I missed it, but could somebody that knows calibrations way better than I post their calibration settings for the LSP9T? I just received our unit yesterday (shipping took about 1 week) and I'd like to get this as dialed-in as possible. Thanks in advance!


These would likely be different for each person based on lighting in the room or screen material... The only place I saw someone post their results was early in the review thread, but then I couldn't find it again.


----------



## bennutt

Going to open a support ticket.
It’s not red push, it’s red not aligned.
If red is visible on everything... not sure you can calibrate out of it.

Can any other owners confirm that white text looks better than this?
Before I process a return for the same unit I’d like to know of it can get better or if this is just the nature of the projector.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JereyWolf

bennutt said:


> Can any other owners confirm that white text looks better than this?


Text on mine looks like this...not sure if it's any better than yours but it's not something I've noticed from a normal viewing distance. Photos with the overhead lights on and off. The general red tint of the photo is not the way it looks in person (stating this for people who aren't familiar with this effect we've all seen).


----------



## Mikenificent1

bennutt said:


> Going to open a support ticket.
> It’s not red push, it’s red not aligned.
> If red is visible on everything... not sure you can calibrate out of it.
> 
> Can any other owners confirm that white text looks better than this?
> Before I process a return for the same unit I’d like to know of it can get better or if this is just the nature of the projector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Curious, if you put a white piece of paper up on your screen and project the same text on it, do you still see the “misconvergence”?


----------



## Syed117

I've been so busy with random stuff, haven't had time to tinker much.

Really enjoying it. The picture can look amazing. Black levels are ok but didn't seem amazing. Just need more time with it.

Blacking out a lot of the surrounding area with the velvet stuff has made a huge difference. Stuck it on the top of the projector as well. Not sure what they were thinking making a ust projector with shiny white plastic on top.

















Sent from my SM-F916U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## MJ DOOM

That’s dope. I like that.


----------



## bdht

bennutt said:


> Going to open a support ticket.
> It’s not red push, it’s red not aligned.
> If red is visible on everything... not sure you can calibrate out of it.
> 
> Can any other owners confirm that white text looks better than this?
> Before I process a return for the same unit I’d like to know of it can get better or if this is just the nature of the projector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


try defocusing slightly you can pull the red in, which will probably cause some blue/green in the sides but less offensive. If i use lens shift on the mico i get very strong red ca/chromatic aberration so id imagine ust is tricky with the even wider gamut.

aside from that youd have to hope for an exchange with a better lens sample


----------



## bennutt

Mikenificent1 said:


> Curious, if you put a white piece of paper up on your screen and project the same text on it, do you still see the “misconvergence”?


Yes, thankfully- because it’s easier to replace the projector than it would be to replace the screen.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## santiagodraco

9 arrives tomorrow. Just rehung the AEON CLR 120 to the exact specs Samsung listed. Will be interesting to see how well it matches. Crossing fingers.


----------



## bennutt

santiagodraco said:


> 9 arrives tomorrow. Just rehung the AEON CLR 120 to the exact specs Samsung listed. Will be interesting to see how well it matches. Crossing fingers.


I actually ordered a second unit to see if the CA issue is any better (it can't really get worse) should know by the weekend.

RE: screen placement, I found the measurements to be pretty exact - you will probably line it up easy if the cabinet height is within the leg adjustment tolerance.


----------



## 1nquisitive

So jealous of all you folks who don't see (or don't care) about the rainbow effect.

I'm living vicariously through you all!


----------



## santiagodraco

LSP9T came in this morning. Setup and tested. Zero RBE and I've watched several different movies and played a couple of XBOX One games. Maybe I'm just blind to it... but I can tell you I've looked super close.

I cannot discern any speckling against my AEON CLR 120" screen either. Again, maybe I'm missing something.

As for white text... it's bright white, no "pink" hue or red chroma. Looks absolutely perfect.

Focus is spot on everywhere across the image.

I've still a bit of alignment to do and calibration but so far this thing is the ****ing bomb. Scuse the french. I am beyond happy I upgraded from the 7P and the Optoma P1/P2. Picture quality is stellar to my eye.


----------



## santiagodraco

Some shots from the 9. Still need to calibrate the geometry a bit so be forgiving  Note that focus has not been adjusted but looks pretty sharp even so. If you look at my shots from the 7 in the other thread you can see how big of a difference there is. I'll post more photos once it's all dialed in.

Note that the focus in the pictures below is more camera than projector. It's sharper in RL.


----------



## JereyWolf

santiagodraco said:


> LSP9T came in this morning. Setup and tested. Zero RBE and I've watched several different movies and played a couple of XBOX One games. Maybe I'm just blind to it... but I can tell you I've looked super close.


Did you ever have any sensitivity to RBE with the other projectors you've had?


----------



## santiagodraco

JereyWolf said:


> Did you ever have any sensitivity to RBE with the other projectors you've had?


I've never even seen RBE outside of pictures and videos on Youtube. If I see it I will let you know but so far, none. Maybe I'm just unable to see it.

So far I'm blown away by this unit. I'm really not trying to have confirmation bias here. I'm really happy with my results so far. I've taken some video clips I'm going to try to upload for folks to take a look at. My only concern with the clips is the magenta tone these cameras are adding. I tweaked the tint on the shots above to look closer to what I was seeing on screen. The videos don't have that. I also am playing with HDR 10+ on/off on taking video clips to see what that does as well.


----------



## santiagodraco

Link to an album with some quickly shot video clips and more pictures. Please forgive the low quality. Let me know if there's any issues with access as I've never used Google Photos for video clips:

Be sure to change the video quality to 1080p otherwise they will look horrible  Unfortunately it seems Google Photos doesn't upload 4k video.

Colors are also way off on playback due to the phone magenta issue.









Samsung LSP9T


32 new items added to shared album




photos.app.goo.gl


----------



## bennutt

santiagodraco said:


> I've never even seen RBE outside of pictures and videos on Youtube. If I see it I will let you know but so far, none. Maybe I'm just unable to see it.
> 
> So far I'm blown away by this unit. I'm really not trying to have confirmation bias here. I'm really happy with my results so far. I've taken some video clips I'm going to try to upload for folks to take a look at. My only concern with the clips is the magenta tone these cameras are adding. I tweaked the tint on the shots above to look closer to what I was seeing on screen. The videos don't have that. I also am playing with HDR 10+ on/off on taking video clips to see what that does as well.


Could you pop up the menu and take a look at white text? Wondering if you see the same red or blue drop shadows. It is literally my _only_ complaint with this unit and I would love to see that mine is abnormal.

Edit: I see on your very first google photo a bit of blue but very little red.. which I would find totally acceptable. Might be luck on what sort of alignment we get.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## santiagodraco

bennutt said:


> Could you pop up the menu and take a look at white text? Wondering if you see the same red or blue drop shadows. It is literally my _only_ complaint with this unit and I would love to see that mine is abnormal.
> 
> Edit: I see on your very first google photo a bit of blue but very little red.. which I would find totally acceptable. Might be luck on what sort of alignment we get.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Edit: Added some better quality shots and removed some of the junk ones. More to come: Samsung LSP9T

Could be. If I get really close to the screen I can make out a slight bit of blue/red along the edges of small white text but it's super tight and impossible to make out and anything beyond say 2 feet or so.

I'm going to redo a bunch of video clips and photos this week. Wish I could find a way to force the shots to be more accurate... they don't represent the real image quality at all.


----------



## driege

santiagodraco said:


> Edit: Added some better quality shots and removed some of the junk ones. More to come: Samsung LSP9T
> 
> Could be. If I get really close to the screen I can make out a slight bit of blue/red along the edges of small white text but it's super tight and impossible to make out and anything beyond say 2 feet or so.
> 
> I'm going to redo a bunch of video clips and photos this week. Wish I could find a way to force the shots to be more accurate... they don't represent the real image quality at all.


The blacks look pretty good in these. In the dark, the letter boxes look almost pitch black.


----------



## Tophe_fr

Hello,
could u please post your calibration setup so it could help me to calibrate mine.


----------



## santiagodraco

driege said:


> The blacks look pretty good in these. In the dark, the letter boxes look almost pitch black.


Yeah I've been watching all kinds of different content and I'm blown away by the blacks and shadows. Sitting here watching with much brighter ambient light and it still looks great. Significantly better than the LSP7T did (and it wasn't a slouch).

I'll keep adding content to the album when I have time to take more shots.


----------



## sudhanese2003

I am not sure what calibrations can do to the default pic but i am quite satisfied. Added a 4k player and watched avatar. It is truly out of the world pic quality to my amateur eyes 😀


----------



## donbraxton

mcollin6 said:


> Elite Screens EPV have a 123” Darkstar UST 2 screen that is 123”. The caveat is that the LSP9T throw ratio is inside the minimum 0.3 specification. Technically, this will result in some degree of hotspotting at the bottom of the screen, though it may not be objectionable, as this is the same throw ratio spec’d for the Aeon CLR 1 and many in this group have had good results.


Came across this screen. They claim to have 150" ALR Screen for UST. Not sure about quality & performance.

Fixed Frame Screen- ultra thin,Home theater projection screen






SAMS_new_generation_100_150_ultra_thin_fixed_frame_ALR_screen_specially_for_laser_projector_screen_for_wemax


SAMS_new_generation_100_150_ultra_thin_fixed_frame_ALR_screen_specially_for_laser_projector_screen_for_wemax



screenpro.en.alibaba.com





And also XY Screen, but the screen material seems to be different than PET Crystal.






Xy Screen 150 Inch Ust Alr Screen Ultra Thin Frame Projection Screen For Ultra Short Throw Projector 50 Inch - Buy Vava 4k Projector,Ust Screen,Alr Projection Screen Product on Alibaba.com


Xy Screen 150 Inch Ust Alr Screen Ultra Thin Frame Projection Screen For Ultra Short Throw Projector 50 Inch - Buy Vava 4k Projector,Ust Screen,Alr Projection Screen Product on Alibaba.com



xyscreen.en.alibaba.com


----------



## sudhanese2003

donbraxton said:


> Came across this screen. They claim to have 150" ALR Screen for UST. Not sure about quality & performance.
> 
> Fixed Frame Screen- ultra thin,Home theater projection screen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SAMS_new_generation_100_150_ultra_thin_fixed_frame_ALR_screen_specially_for_laser_projector_screen_for_wemax
> 
> 
> SAMS_new_generation_100_150_ultra_thin_fixed_frame_ALR_screen_specially_for_laser_projector_screen_for_wemax
> 
> 
> 
> screenpro.en.alibaba.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also XY Screen,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Xy Screen 150 Inch Ust Alr Screen Ultra Thin Frame Projection Screen For Ultra Short Throw Projector 50 Inch - Buy Vava 4k Projector,Ust Screen,Alr Projection Screen Product on Alibaba.com
> 
> 
> Xy Screen 150 Inch Ust Alr Screen Ultra Thin Frame Projection Screen For Ultra Short Throw Projector 50 Inch - Buy Vava 4k Projector,Ust Screen,Alr Projection Screen Product on Alibaba.com
> 
> 
> 
> xyscreen.en.alibaba.com


I can speak to XY screen. At the price point (around $1150 for 120 inches), you will get a quality item that has been tried and tested and meets the specs of UST projectors. The process is unique for ordering through alibaba but the communication via whatsapp and shipping updates are spot on. Definitely need someone to think it through and assist for assembly (We had to redo a few times because we did not follow the youtube instructions). Very satisfied with the purchase.

I personally feel 120 is the sweet spot. 130 is pushing it and 150 might be overkill and have not seen a setup with 150 and LSP9T. Even the recommendation is max 130


----------



## Bill97Z

Akia (affiliated with Elite) has 120" UST screens with CLR3 or CLR4 material for 999 on amazon



sudhanese2003 said:


> I can speak to XY screen. At the price point (around $1150 for 120 inches), you will get a quality item that has been tried and tested and meets the specs of UST projectors. The process is unique for ordering through alibaba but the communication via whatsapp and shipping updates are spot on. Definitely need someone to think it through and assist for assembly (We had to redo a few times because we did not follow the youtube instructions). Very satisfied with the purchase.
> 
> I personally feel 120 is the sweet spot. 130 is pushing it and 150 might be overkill and have not seen a setup with 150 and LSP9T. Even the recommendation is max 130


----------



## donbraxton

sudhanese2003 said:


> I personally feel 120 is the sweet spot. 130 is pushing it and 150 might be overkill and have not seen a setup with 150 and LSP9T. Even the recommendation is max 130


Earlier I was projecting on to a wall with 150". Now I am projecting on to a gray screen with 140". I dont see any issue with image sharpness/brightness but since the room has light colored walls, the black level and contrast is not as good as pairing with a UST ALR screen. This is a temporary setup, the plan is to install lsp9t in a dedicated home theatre. See my earlier post for more pics.


----------



## bennutt

donbraxton said:


> Earlier I was projecting on to a wall with 150". Now I am projecting on to a gray screen with 140". I dont see any issue with image sharpness/brightness but since the room has light colored walls, the black level and contrast is not as good as pairing with a UST ALR screen. This is a temporary setup, the plan is to install lsp9t in a dedicated home theatre. See my earlier post for more pics.


Is there even a UST screen available larger than 120"? I'm not aware of one, but I wasn't looking very hard either


----------



## ACE844

bennutt said:


> Is there even a UST screen available larger than 120"? I'm not aware of one, but I wasn't looking very hard either


@*donbraxton posted one above at this link Fixed Frame Screen- ultra thin,Home theater projection screen
*


----------



## Run&Gun

ACE844 said:


> @*donbraxton posted one above at this link Fixed Frame Screen- ultra thin,Home theater projection screen*


Interesting... My wall can physically accommodate a 150” screen and 135” is really my practical limit(not be obstructed/fit between my towers). I’ve also read that some people have gotten a focused image out of my LG HU85 up to 140”(not sure how much image brightness would suffer at the larger size and farther distance). But I would have to get a new cabinet that would allow the projector to sit lower and it would have to sit farther forward(away from the screen), which would then create an issue with the center channel.


----------



## bennutt

Run&Gun said:


> Interesting... My wall can physically accommodate a 150” screen and 135” is really my practical limit(not be obstructed/fit between my towers). I’ve also read that some people have gotten a focused image out of my LG HU85 up to 140”(not sure how much image brightness would suffer at the larger size and farther distance). But I would have to get a new cabinet that would allow the projector to sit lower and it would have to sit farther forward(away from the screen), which would then create an issue with the center channel.


Yep. At 120” screen my projector is 12” off the ground and my center barely fits underneath. I _could_ place the center higher and in front of projector, but that cuts up a lot of floor space, and it would be even worse at a larger screen size.
This is why I noticed the LSP9T has a ceiling mode and I started to consider if that was possible. Could you imagine trying to line that up using a floating ceiling mount... even if the screen worked?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Run&Gun

bennutt said:


> Yep. At 120” screen my projector is 12” off the ground and my center barely fits underneath. I _could_ place the center higher and in front of projector, but that cuts up a lot of floor space, and it would be even worse at a larger screen size.
> This is why I noticed the LSP9T has a ceiling mode and I started to consider if that was possible. Could you imagine trying to line that up using a floating ceiling mount... even if the screen worked?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Without some sort of specialized mounting system it would be almost impossible. At best, maddening...


----------



## arpatel

I seem to have a problem with Samsung ARC and Marantz 7703. When using Samsung’s built in streaming app via HDMI cable no sound comes via Marantz. It recognizes and turns the receiver on but no sound . Only youtube app’s ARC seems to work . Netflix , Amazon , Disney ,HBO . All seem to have some issues with sound playback via HDMI arc . Any thoughts ?


----------



## santiagodraco

arpatel said:


> I seem to have a problem with Samsung ARC and Marantz 7703. When using Samsung’s built in streaming app via HDMI cable no sound comes via Marantz. It recognizes and turns the receiver on but no sound . Only youtube app’s ARC seems to work . Netflix , Amazon , Disney ,HBO . All seem to have some issues with sound playback via HDMI arc . Any thoughts ?


I'm also having the same issue with my Denon 8500 but haven't had time to check to see if it's a configuration issue. Had the problem as well with the LSP7T. I suspect it's not the Sammy but can't confirm yet.


----------



## bennutt

Well, I got a replacement unit and this chromatic aberration is just a thing straight out of the box.
I guess I just need to train myself to ignore it.

First projector









Second projector











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## santiagodraco

That is super odd.

What is your setup other than the projector?

Hmm, nm, looks like you are not running from an external source. How do sources look?


----------



## bennutt

santiagodraco said:


> That is super odd.
> 
> What is your setup other than the projector?
> 
> Hmm, nm, looks like you are not running from an external source. How do sources look?


Sources are the same as menus.
That last pic is straight out of box onto a piece of paper on the wall. First is on a proper UST screen.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mmdd

Cine4home commented that the very narrow band spectral properties of the red, blue and green laser light sources show different optical refractions as far as convergence.








Test: Samsung LSP9T The Premiere Laser TV | Cine4home.de


Der welterste echte RGB Laser Projektor im ersten Cine4Home Test. Hält das Gerät, was der Hersteller für den Preis verspricht? Wir geben eine erste Antwort.



cine4home.de


----------



## kevinxxg

Anyone knows if the LSP7T has the speckle issue? I'm returning my LSP9T and planning to get a LSP7T. LOL 
Since someone said the single laser source shouldn't have the speckle issue. TBH, It's not very friendly for a user who wears prescription glasses like me. The further I kept from the screen, the more noticeable on the blue and red border.


----------



## arpatel

santiagodraco said:


> I'm also having the same issue with my Denon 8500 but haven't had time to check to see if it's a configuration issue. Had the problem as well with the LSP7T. I suspect it's not the Sammy but can't confirm yet.


I was fiddling with the settings yesterday night . Seems like sammy arc hdmi works with pcm option . My Marantz has only ARC . So I am stuck with PCM two channel stereo out put .


----------



## santiagodraco

santiagodraco said:


> That is super odd.
> 
> What is your setup other than the projector?





kevinxxg said:


> Anyone knows if the LSP7T has the speckle issue? I'm returning my LSP9T and planning to get a LSP7T. LOL
> Since someone said the single laser source shouldn't have the speckle issue. TBH, It's not very friendly for a user who wears prescription glasses like me. The further I kept from the screen, the more noticeable on the blue and red border.


Maybe I'm not understanding what "speckle" is but on my 9 I'm seeing none. Don't remember seeing it on the 7. If I get close, like 1-2 ft close I can see pixels, which I assume is the speckle that is being described, but any further away from that, nothing.

Loving the LSP9T. Couldn't imagine going back to the 7 (which I returned for this)


----------



## ktu22

I've been digging through this thread and haven't really found what I wanted. Anybody here using this as a replacement for a TV in a bright room? I want to see if it's a suitable TV replacement.


----------



## Run&Gun

santiagodraco said:


> Maybe I'm not understanding what "speckle" is but on my 9 I'm seeing none. Don't remember seeing it on the 7. If I get close, like 1-2 ft close I can see pixels, which I assume is the speckle that is being described, but any further away from that, nothing.
> 
> Loving the LSP9T. Couldn't imagine going back to the 7 (which I returned for this)


Speckle and seeing the individual pixels are not the same. Speckle will look like a very fine rainbow “mist” in kind of a 3D effect on or bouncing slightly off the screen. Usually in white or very bright areas or very saturated colors.


----------



## JereyWolf

ktu22 said:


> I've been digging through this thread and haven't really found what I wanted. Anybody here using this as a replacement for a TV in a bright room? I want to see if it's a suitable TV replacement.


I've replaced my 75" Sony with the LSP9T. My seat is 16 feet away...so the 120" screen size is a huge plus to using the projector. It totally works in my relatively bright living room, with the screen across from bay windows. You will definitely lose contrast compared to a TV when there is ambient light, but the UST/ALR screen helps significantly. For me, the trade offs of lower contrast and other things like RBE and speckle are worth the huge increase in screen size. Having owned a decent FALD Sony and this being my first experience with a projector, I think the black levels on this projector are very impressive with the right content and settings (and there's no blooming). The sharpness of the image is also extremely impressive to me. I can't imagine switching back to a normal sized TV now...neither can my Wife even though she was pretty skeptical about having a projector in the living room.


----------



## JereyWolf

Run&Gun said:


> Speckle and seeing the individual pixels are not the same. Speckle will look like a very fine rainbow “mist” in kind of a 3D effect on or bouncing slightly off the screen. Usually in white or very bright areas or very saturated colors.


That's a good explanation! I think of it looking like a dusting of glitter on the image....and only really notice it in bright solid colors. I don't have to get close to see it though...I can easily notice it from 16 feet away.


----------



## santiagodraco

bennutt said:


> Sources are the same as menus.
> That last pic is straight out of box onto a piece of paper on the wall. First is on a proper UST screen.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Has me lost man.


Run&Gun said:


> Speckle and seeing the individual pixels are not the same. Speckle will look like a very fine rainbow “mist” in kind of a 3D effect on or bouncing slightly off the screen. Usually in white or very bright areas or very saturated colors.


Thanks! Seeing none then.


----------



## santiagodraco

ktu22 said:


> I've been digging through this thread and haven't really found what I wanted. Anybody here using this as a replacement for a TV in a bright room? I want to see if it's a suitable TV replacement.


Depends on bright. I am but my room isn't "bright" as in having windows without shade over them (ie covered patio area).


----------



## ktu22

JereyWolf said:


> I've replaced my 75" Sony with the LSP9T. My seat is 16 feet away...so the 120" screen size is a huge plus to using the projector. It totally works in my relatively bright living room, with the screen across from bay windows. You will definitely lose contrast compared to a TV when there is ambient light, but the UST/ALR screen helps significantly. For me, the trade offs of lower contrast and other things like RBE and speckle are worth the huge increase in screen size. Having owned a decent FALD Sony and this being my first experience with a projector, I think the black levels on this projector are very impressive with the right content and settings (and there's no blooming). The sharpness of the image is also extremely impressive to me. I can't imagine switching back to a normal sized TV now...neither can my Wife even though she was pretty skeptical about having a projector in the living room.


Would you be able to share a pic? I think my wife is a little hesitant and I kind of want to see examples of it running in a similar environment before taking plunge. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JereyWolf

ktu22 said:


> Would you be able to share a pic? I think my wife is a little hesitant and I kind of want to see examples of it running in a similar environment before taking plunge.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Made a quick video to show it in my living room conditions. I put still images of my windows and the screen area with the ambient light.


----------



## Run&Gun

JereyWolf said:


> That's a good explanation! I think of it looking like a dusting of glitter on the image....and only really notice it in bright solid colors. I don't have to get close to see it though...I can easily notice it from 16 feet away.


Glitter is a good way to convey the effect(artifact), as well.


----------



## santiagodraco

Run&Gun said:


> Glitter is a good way to convey the effect(artifact), as well.


That is what I was referring to as "pixels". In any case it's there but is pretty much invisible after a few feet away in my case. Completely unnoticeable.


----------



## goondo

Is there a setting/mode to control the lumens output?


----------



## santiagodraco

goondo said:


> Is there a setting/mode to control the lumens output?


Not directly, no. You can adjust brightness and gamma but that is it.


----------



## theos2

So... 450+ post into this thread, multiple owners and not a single person has shared their calibrated settings and white balance in spite of numerous requests.

Why is that?


----------



## Tophe_fr

Agree. I find picture a bit red on mine so i'll appreciate some settings to correct it.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Run&Gun said:


> Speckle and seeing the individual pixels are not the same. Speckle will look like a very fine rainbow “mist” in kind of a 3D effect on or bouncing slightly off the screen. Usually in white or very bright areas or very saturated colors.


I commonly refer to the laser speckle on this unit as "rainbow glitter", but your "rainbow mist" is a good way of describing it.


----------



## theos2

Tophe_fr said:


> Agree. I find picture a bit red on mine so i'll appreciate some settings to correct it.


Out of the box, filmmode is the only one that I can tolerate the reds and even then they are way too saturated to my taste.

Probably going back unless I can find some setting adjustments to address


----------



## santiagodraco

theos2 said:


> So... 450+ post into this thread, multiple owners and not a single person has shared their calibrated settings and white balance in spite of numerous requests.
> 
> Why is that?


Because like has been said over and over again... you can't use other peoples calibration settings since it's screen and room light dependent. Understand???


----------



## Mikenificent1

ProjectionHead said:


> I commonly refer to the laser speckle on this unit as "rainbow glitter", but your "rainbow mist" is a good way of describing it.


So the speckle doesn’t stay the color that’s being projected? Meaning, if it was projecting a full solid red screen, you would still see a rainbow mist, or just a red mist?


----------



## Mikenificent1

santiagodraco said:


> Because like has been said over and over again... you can't use other peoples calibration settings since it's screen and room light dependent. Understand???


Seriously. if you’re getting too much red, then stop whining and adjust the reds. you can at least lower it by eye to make it acceptable if it’s that bad.


----------



## Mikenificent1

ProjectionHead said:


> I commonly refer to the laser speckle on this unit as "rainbow glitter", but your "rainbow mist" is a good way of describing it.


Brian, since you have some contact with Samsung. Could you mention that many users would like a faster refresh of the lasers to address the RBE, and dynamic dimming of the lasers to address black levels? This is something they should be able to include in a firmware update. Maybe mention the convergence issues too, although I don’t think that can be addressed via firmware.


----------



## ApeEx

theos2 said:


> Out of the box, filmmode is the only one that I can tolerate the reds and even then they are way too saturated to my taste.
> 
> Probably going back unless I can find some setting adjustments to address


You might want to try standard mode and change the picture setting to "cool"


----------



## theos2

Resolved. Getting shipped back tomorrow. Can't believe Samsung is shipping these as a finished product. I am hoping I had a defective unit.

Compared side by side with the LG, and LG's image quality rivals their OLED in my house, both out of the box and using calibrated settings. Same room, same screen, same sources. Difference is night and day.

As much as I wanted to like the Sammy, from RBE, to sparkle, to oversaturated reds and focus challenges, and limited settings, it could not keep up with the LG.

Regarding calibration settings, although they are personalized they provide a good baseline to start from, that is why they are shared. My guess is that as more of these units get reviewed, the flaws being experienced by the early adopters on this thread will be further scrutinized and confirmed. 

This ust projector is half baked at this time and would not recommend.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Mikenificent1 said:


> So the speckle doesn’t stay the color that’s being projected? Meaning, if it was projecting a full solid red screen, you would still see a rainbow mist, or just a red mist?


The speckle is most visible on a white background or white parts of a scene. I have not tried projecting solid red,blue or green but that sounds like a good experiment once time allows. I’ll update here once I have a chance to test.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Mikenificent1 said:


> Brian, since you have some contact with Samsung. Could you mention that many users would like a faster refresh of the lasers to address the RBE, and dynamic dimming of the lasers to address black levels? This is something they should be able to include in a firmware update. Maybe mention the convergence issues too, although I don’t think that can be addressed via firmware.


I think for best chance at having the feedback being taking seriously, I will need to present it in some fashion that they can hear the criticism / suggestion first hand and view the amount of individuals making the statements as opposed to me saying “people on the forums are saying this”.

Perhaps I can create a thread in my vendor sub (“Consumer Suggestions for Samsung for the LSP9T”) for users such as yourself to post their comments. No conversations between posters, just posts directed towards Samsung. It will be important that it is not a discussion thread or it is less likely that they will read every post.

I could then link them to that sub so they could see the posts and opt to engage publicly or directly with the posters.

Thoughts?


----------



## m4gr4th34

Has anyone updated the software from the Samsung website? If so, what are the changes (there are no change logs on the website), and why doesn’t the unit update over the internet? Also, does anyone else feel that the main menu is a bit sluggish for this price? Am I doing something wrong, or is the chip underpowered or is there a software update necessary to speed things up? It’s a concern because I would be saddened if the main menu continues to slow down to unusable like with an older LG tv I have.

otherwise, the movie watching experience is great, I am blown away by the ust convenience and the sharpness and vivid colors. I’m a strange fellow in that I prefer the image up on my cream orange peel wall because I love not having a big ugly screen, but will probably still get an alr at some point. I played ps4 games like uncharted and bomberman and game mode launched itself, and after ten minutes I forgot that I was testing for noticeable lag so I’d say for such games the lag is not noticeable. I don’t do competitive fps anymore, and even if I did I would use a ripped pc with a mouse keyboard — so I’m guessing ps5 games should do well here also. Yes, the menus are red as hell and can make me nauseous if I dawdle.

chromatic aberration certainly exists, and it makes text fuzzy to read at 10-15 feet away, but I’m not doing productivity tasks here .. I never had rainbow issues in the past so no issues for me. Everything seems focused. YouTube 4K content is so relaxing, I could never have imagined this pj as a therapeutic device ... arc HDMI works on my Yamaha 5 speakers (sub is too much for my apartment).
So mainly I want to know about the software update, and if the main menu can be expected to get zippier?


----------



## goondo

For those calibrating via PC/laptop patterns the lsp9t will lock some picture settings on detection that a computer is connected to it. You can change the device profile by going to the source quick menu, go to pc, hit up on the remote, and select edit. This brings a list of device profiles. I have been picking home theater. From their you can pick movie preset and continue calibration.


----------



## Mikenificent1

theos2 said:


> Resolved. Getting shipped back tomorrow. Can't believe Samsung is shipping these as a finished product. I am hoping I had a defective unit.
> 
> Compared side by side with the LG, and LG's image quality rivals their OLED in my house, both out of the box and using calibrated settings. Same room, same screen, same sources. Difference is night and day.
> 
> As much as I wanted to like the Sammy, from RBE, to sparkle, to oversaturated reds and focus challenges, and limited settings, it could not keep up with the LG.
> 
> Regarding calibration settings, although they are personalized they provide a good baseline to start from, that is why they are shared. My guess is that as more of these units get reviewed, the flaws being experienced by the early adopters on this thread will be further scrutinized and confirmed.
> 
> This ust projector is half baked at this time and would not recommend.


Which LG are you referring to?


----------



## Mikenificent1

ProjectionHead said:


> I think for best chance at having the feedback being taking seriously, I will need to present it in some fashion that they can hear the criticism / suggestion first hand and view the amount of individuals making the statements as opposed to me saying “people on the forums are saying this”.
> 
> Perhaps I can create a thread in my vendor sub (“Consumer Suggestions for Samsung for the LSP9T”) for users such as yourself to post their comments. No conversations between posters, just posts directed towards Samsung. It will be important that it is not a discussion thread or it is less likely that they will read every post.
> 
> I could then link them to that sub so they could see the posts and opt to engage publicly or directly with the posters.
> 
> Thoughts?


I think that’s a good idea. Anything that can get Samsung to improve the current product would benefit us all.


----------



## theos2

Mikenificent1 said:


> Which LG are you referring to?


 HU85LA

My migration path has been from Sony rear projection DLP to Samsung Plasma to LG OLED to laser UST DLP front projection. Full circle in a way.


----------



## goondo

How does one select st.2086 for gamma in order to adjust for calibration?


----------



## bennutt

theos2 said:


> Resolved. Getting shipped back tomorrow. Can't believe Samsung is shipping these as a finished product. I am hoping I had a defective unit.
> 
> Compared side by side with the LG, and LG's image quality rivals their OLED in my house, both out of the box and using calibrated settings. Same room, same screen, same sources. Difference is night and day.
> 
> As much as I wanted to like the Sammy, from RBE, to sparkle, to oversaturated reds and focus challenges, and limited settings, it could not keep up with the LG.
> 
> Regarding calibration settings, although they are personalized they provide a good baseline to start from, that is why they are shared. My guess is that as more of these units get reviewed, the flaws being experienced by the early adopters on this thread will be further scrutinized and confirmed.
> 
> This ust projector is half baked at this time and would not recommend.


The LG doesn’t do any type of dynamic tone mapping (no Dolby Vision or HDR10+) so the Samsung won for me. I have noticed the sparkle in exactly one place, a video game start screen (COD - Moscow red badge) ... other than that it hasn’t been apparent.

Also, I have no idea how or why but the red chromatic aberration just sort of went away in the last couple days. I have been posting pics from menus, here is another... the red is there but less dramatic.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## theos2

bennutt said:


> The LG doesn’t do any type of dynamic tone mapping (no Dolby Vision or HDR10+) so the Samsung won for me. I have noticed the sparkle in exactly one place, a video game start screen (COD - Moscow red badge) ... other than that it hasn’t been apparent.
> 
> Also, I have no idea how or why but the red chromatic aberration just sort of went away in the last couple days. I have been posting pics from menus, here is another... the red is there but less dramatic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


More than willing to trade HDR10+, smaller footprint, lower throw ratio, extra laser and extra HDMI ports. Not sure I could enjoy HDR10+ with all of the other display issues. Awful RBE, sparkle, aberrations or inability to focus, especially red, hard to read text and an overall untamable picture quality.

So yes, I agree, in specs it reads like the perfect UST, and the reason I wanted to love it, however in practice it fails at the most important spec, a quality picture (so bad, that I thought I had a defective unit, until I saw others here having the same experiences, than I knew this relationship had to end). Hopefully Samsung listens to the feedback and improves. This device will develop a bad reputation quickly, I suspect it will drop in price quick and a new model will be out before the 1 year anniversary, to avoid falling behind the competition in this reinvigorated market segment.


----------



## JereyWolf

I set up some Medialight Mk2 bias lightning on the back of my screen and I feel like it's had a significant impact on reducing the RBE for me. These photos show 100% and 10% brightness.


----------



## sudhanese2003

bennutt said:


> The LG doesn’t do any type of dynamic tone mapping (no Dolby Vision or HDR10+) so the Samsung won for me. I have noticed the sparkle in exactly one place, a video game start screen (COD - Moscow red badge) ... other than that it hasn’t been apparent.
> 
> Also, I have no idea how or why but the red chromatic aberration just sort of went away in the last couple days. I have been posting pics from menus, here is another... the red is there but less dramatic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


here is what i am seeing from menu with full lights on vs dark room setting. I see solid white and not red


----------



## Run&Gun

theos2 said:


> *More than willing to trade HDR10+*, smaller footprint, lower throw ratio, extra laser and extra HDMI ports. Not sure I could enjoy HDR10+ with all of the other display issues. Awful RBE, sparkle, aberrations or inability to focus, especially red, hard to read text and an overall untamable picture quality.
> 
> So yes, I agree, in specs it reads like the perfect UST, and the reason I wanted to love it, however in practice it fails at the most important spec, a quality picture (so bad, that I thought I had a defective unit, until I saw others here having the same experiences, than I knew this relationship had to end). Hopefully Samsung listens to the feedback and improves. This device will develop a bad reputation quickly, I suspect it will drop in price quick and a new model will be out before the 1 year anniversary, to avoid falling behind the competition in this reinvigorated market segment.


I'm still not sold on HDR being "all that". My 4K LG OLED has HDR10 and Dolby Vision and 99.9% of everything I watch is on my LG HU85. So I'm with you, I'd trade HDR10 any day of the week for what I have with my HU85.


----------



## Larry J

theos2 said:


> More than willing to trade HDR10+, smaller footprint, lower throw ratio, extra laser and extra HDMI ports. Not sure I could enjoy HDR10+ with all of the other display issues. Awful RBE, sparkle, aberrations or inability to focus, especially red, hard to read text and an overall untamable picture quality.
> 
> So yes, I agree, in specs it reads like the perfect UST, and the reason I wanted to love it, however in practice it fails at the most important spec, a quality picture (so bad, that I thought I had a defective unit, until I saw others here having the same experiences, than I knew this relationship had to end). Hopefully Samsung listens to the feedback and improves. This device will develop a bad reputation quickly, I suspect it will drop in price quick and a new model will be out before the 1 year anniversary, to avoid falling behind the competition in this reinvigorated market segment.


So the Samsung basically has a unwatchable picture while the cheaper LG HU85 matches Oled TV's. OK then, thanks for the info.


----------



## mcollin6

sudhanese2003 said:


> here is what i am seeing from menu with full lights on vs dark room setting. I see solid white and not red
> 
> View attachment 3066919
> 
> 
> View attachment 3066920


Could some of this be due to the screen? Some screens aren’t ISF certified fro color neutrality. It would be interesting to find out if the best and wort CA correlates with screen at all.

My experience with optics has shown that some frequencies can be distorted based on the material that they pass through. The light can bend similar to what you see when white light hits a prism.


----------



## santiagodraco

Larry J said:


> So the Samsung basically has a unwatchable picture while the cheaper LG HU85 matches Oled TV's. OK then, thanks for the info.


Not in my experience. I'm really baffled at the narrative that the Samsung has a bad picture. In my experience it's the opposite, it has a stunning picture.

I wonder if people forget it's a projector and it's never going to equal an OLED or QLED display. Not unless you are in a blacked out room and have a "miracle" screen with perfect alignment to the projector....and even then it won't.

The RBE issue I've not once been able to see any RBE and believe me I've looked. I've watched tons of different content now, HDR, non-HDR, 720p, 1080p,4k, PC, TV, etc etc. Not saying they are lying. I just haven't experienced it.

About the only thing I've seen is the speckling if really close to the display. Would love to see that addressed but it's pretty much invisible to me at any normal distance.

Lastly when running my PC at 100% font scaling the text is pretty crisp at small sizes. Not as sharp as a monitor of course but much better than I expected. I do wish Samsung added a real time focus that didn't use their own image. I'd like to be able to adjust focus on whatever image I am looking at.


----------



## bennutt

mcollin6 said:


> Could some of this be due to the screen? Some screens aren’t ISF certified fro color neutrality. It would be interesting to find out if the best and wort CA correlates with screen at all.
> 
> My experience with optics has shown that some frequencies can be distorted based on the material that they pass through. The light can bend similar to what you see when white light hits a prism.


I was thinking this too, but I used white paper instead of the UST screen to see if there is any change. When the CA is in effect, it doesn’t care what surface it hits.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Mikenificent1

bennutt said:


> I was thinking this too, but I used white paper instead of the UST screen to see if there is any change. When the CA is in effect, it doesn’t care what surface it hits.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Does adjusting focus help? Is keystone enabled?


----------



## survivor

Wow...to be honest I wasn't expecting to see this much of contrasting issues reported with the Samsung LSP9T. I guess if your unit is good then you are good. On the flip side if your unit isn't good then well it isn't and would make you wanting to pull out your hair. Wondering what makes this bipolar user experience issue. It is quality control? user's expectation? At one time LSP9T is on top of my UST projector list to get and in fact I did place an order for it but cancelled it later as circumstance led me to go with other make/model. I wonder whether I have dodged a bullet here.


----------



## bennutt

Mikenificent1 said:


> Does adjusting focus help? Is keystone enabled?


Focus doesn’t change it and no keystone adjustments.
(2nd unit was raw setup screens right out of the box)

I don’t understand why it would improve on its own? What can effect the lens? Room temp? Does it align things during a boot process? It’s really weird.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Larry J

santiagodraco said:


> Not in my experience. I'm really baffled at the narrative that the Samsung has a bad picture. In my experience it's the opposite, it has a stunning picture.
> 
> I wonder if people forget it's a projector and it's never going to equal an OLED or QLED display. Not unless you are in a blacked out room and have a "miracle" screen with perfect alignment to the projector....and even then it won't.
> 
> The RBE issue I've not once been able to see any RBE and believe me I've looked. I've watched tons of different content now, HDR, non-HDR, 720p, 1080p,4k, PC, TV, etc etc. Not saying they are lying. I just haven't experienced it.
> 
> About the only thing I've seen is the speckling if really close to the display. Would love to see that addressed but it's pretty much invisible to me at any normal distance.
> 
> Lastly when running my PC at 100% font scaling the text is pretty crisp at small sizes. Not as sharp as a monitor of course but much better than I expected. I do wish Samsung added a real time focus that didn't use their own image. I'd like to be able to adjust focus on whatever image I am looking at.


I was being mostly sarcastic with that statement I made, which I assumed would be picked up on based on my other posts and maybe it was. That person was just overboard with complaints and saying the picture actually looks like that. Its a very sharp PJ and the text isn't hard to read. Its sharper with my desktop computer than some other PJ's I've used over the years. Rainbows are less also for me an others that has watched it. I don't see any myself and my brother usually see's that on color wheel types and doesn't see any on the Samsung. But I know its person depended. 

Posts like that can normally can be found on forums and AVS is no exception. I can't speak for other screen types but laser speckle is a non-issue also for me. The Samsung has adjustments to handle saturated reds and such. I imagine the easy return policy of Samsung direct makes it easy for some to not want it after getting it, and seeing the bill. Regardless of all that I haven't seen any reviews attack this PJ like a few have on AVS. I know a good picture when I see on and the Samsung 3 laser has a good picture. Then again most PJ's in one way or another has OK/good pictures. 

But if looking for perfection and putting nose on the screen looking for stuff, then really should stay away from front projectors. Things can be improved on this PJ like all of them but it works well as is. Color is really nice and try adjusting things rather than using presets. Of course defects are possible but I can tell sometimes that its mostly about being a DLP, price or whatever rather than the actual PJ. Nothing new about that on AVS. It is a UST so maybe some should stick to a longer throw type. But saying a color wheel UST single laser makes this Samsung look terrible isn't accurate period. So no people aren't dodging a bullet not buying one. But don't have out of this world expectations or looking for problems that have no real affect on the picture. 

I would like to pick the image also for for focus but I got it set after awhile. But then I don't take a magnify glass and hold to the the screen afterwards either. But the focus is fine and if wasn't I'd say so.


----------



## santiagodraco

Larry J said:


> I was being mostly sarcastic with that statement I made, which I assumed would be picked up on based on my other posts and maybe it was. That person was just overboard with complaints and saying the picture actually looks like that. Its a very sharp PJ and the text isn't hard to read. Its sharper with my desktop computer than some other PJ's I've used over the years. Rainbows are less also for me an others that has watched it. I don't see any myself and my brother usually see's that on color wheel types and doesn't see any on the Samsung. But I know its person depended.
> 
> Posts like that can normally can be found on forums and AVS is no exception. I can't speak for other screen types but laser speckle is a non-issue also for me. The Samsung has adjustments to handle saturated reds and such. I imagine the easy return policy of Samsung direct makes it easy for some to not want it after getting it, and seeing the bill. Regardless of all that I haven't seen any reviews attack this PJ like a few have on AVS. I know a good picture when I see on and the Samsung 3 laser has a good picture. Then again most PJ's in one way or another has OK/good pictures.
> 
> But if looking for perfection and putting nose on the screen looking for stuff, then really should stay away from front projectors. Things can be improved on this PJ like all of them but it works well as is. Color is really nice and try adjusting things rather than using presets. Of course defects are possible but I can tell sometimes that its mostly about being a DLP, price or whatever rather than the actual PJ. Nothing new about that on AVS. It is a UST so maybe some should stick to a longer throw type. But saying a color wheel UST single laser makes this Samsung look terrible isn't accurate period. So no people aren't dodging a bullet not buying one. But don't have out of this world expectations or looking for problems that have no real affect on the picture.
> 
> I would like to pick the image also for for focus but I got it set after awhile. But then I don't take a magnify glass and hold to the the screen afterwards either. But the focus is fine and if wasn't I'd say so.


Agreed.

I already submitted feedback that they need to provide the ability to adjust focus on the current image...not their test pattern. This is a shortcoming of their Ui/configuration design imo. Other projectors provide this and it's very useful.


----------



## theos2

Larry J said:


> I was being mostly sarcastic with that statement I made, which I assumed would be picked up on based on my other posts and maybe it was. That person was just overboard with complaints and saying the picture actually looks like that. Its a very sharp PJ and the text isn't hard to read. Its sharper with my desktop computer than some other PJ's I've used over the years. Rainbows are less also for me an others that has watched it. I don't see any myself and my brother usually see's that on color wheel types and doesn't see any on the Samsung. But I know its person depended.
> 
> Posts like that can normally can be found on forums and AVS is no exception. I can't speak for other screen types but laser speckle is a non-issue also for me. The Samsung has adjustments to handle saturated reds and such. I imagine the easy return policy of Samsung direct makes it easy for some to not want it after getting it, and seeing the bill. Regardless of all that I haven't seen any reviews attack this PJ like a few have on AVS. I know a good picture when I see on and the Samsung 3 laser has a good picture. Then again most PJ's in one way or another has OK/good pictures.
> 
> But if looking for perfection and putting nose on the screen looking for stuff, then really should stay away from front projectors. Things can be improved on this PJ like all of them but it works well as is. Color is really nice and try adjusting things rather than using presets. Of course defects are possible but I can tell sometimes that its mostly about being a DLP, price or whatever rather than the actual PJ. Nothing new about that on AVS. It is a UST so maybe some should stick to a longer throw type. But saying a color wheel UST single laser makes this Samsung look terrible isn't accurate period. So no people aren't dodging a bullet not buying one. But don't have out of this world expectations or looking for problems that have no real affect on the picture.
> 
> I would like to pick the image also for for focus but I got it set after awhile. But then I don't take a magnify glass and hold to the the screen afterwards either. But the focus is fine and if wasn't I'd say so.


This would be relevant feedback if the two USTs were not compared side by side in the same room, screen and inputs. Having eliminated these variables, the HU85LA is amazing! Pretty damn close to perfection.

If you skipped the LS9, you avoided wasting 2 days trying to figure out how a device with superior specs on paper can fall so flat on it's face in the real world.

As mentioned, not as many hands-on reviews of the LS9PT out there, but I can guarantee you it will not be pretty once they arrive.


----------



## ApeEx

theos2 said:


> This would be relevant feedback if the two USTs were not compared side by side in the same room, screen and inputs. Having eliminated these variables, the HU85LA is amazing! Pretty damn close to perfection.
> 
> If you skipped the LS9, you avoided wasting 2 days trying to figure out how a device with superior specs on paper can fall so flat on it's face in the real world.
> 
> As mentioned, not as many hands-on reviews of the LS9PT out there, but I can guarantee you it will not be pretty once they arrive.


You're certainly entitled to your opinion, but in my experience the LSP9T is just as stunning as the reviews claim it is. HDR content is not oversaturated, I only made minor adjustments to the settings, and the Mandalorian for example is so good, his helmet looks like a solid metal object, not a picture of one. SDR content is oversaturated, but it's fixable. I'm was watching a Ravens Browns game and the Browns uniforms liked pure red, not orange. The fix? Switched to movie mode, color warmth to standard, color setting up to 40, contrast 35, contrast enhancement on high, and bam: orange uniforms and perfect color. On my unit the white text is pure white, there is some AC on text when you look close, but invisible from normal viewing. There was some RBE at first, but the more I use it the less I see it. The thing that bothers me about this projector is that I can't take accurate pictures of the image, the camera on phone sees a magenta light which is you don't see in person. But look at this picture anyway, look how sharp this the image is, and this is on a plain old white wall, I can only imagine how good it would look on a decent screen!


----------



## Youval

Hey guys,
Finally got around to installing my whole system.
Took about 2 weeks to build a custom A/V unit with a pull out shelf to accommodate the LSP9T ant the required distance.
I’ve only played around with it for an hour or so but image looks amazing.
The one thing I’ll need help on is the picture adjustments. For the life of me and my installers we were not able to get the image perfectly aligned.
The bottom corners just won’t fill up. The screen adjustment pointer won’t move anymore. 
There’s a little space on the bottom left and bottom right.It’s driving me insane.
I gave up for tonight but I know I won’t be able to live with this.
The screen adjustments are absolutely horrible.
This is my first foray into the projector world and I’m being told that ceiling mounted projectors are much easier to set up.
Anyhow here’s my set up for now.
Custom built A/V Unit, Sony PS5, Apple TV4K, Nvidia Shield Pro, Bell TV (Canada), Samsung LSP9T.
For Audio I went with the Marantz 7015 along with Totem Acoustic speakers.
Three Tribe III in front, a dual 8” Tribe solution sub and two Tribe II’s for rear’s.
For the screen I went with the EluneVision Aurora 8K Nano Edge UST Screen in 120”


----------



## santiagodraco

theos2 said:


> This would be relevant feedback if the two USTs were not compared side by side in the same room, screen and inputs. Having eliminated these variables, the HU85LA is amazing! Pretty damn close to perfection.
> 
> If you skipped the LS9, you avoided wasting 2 days trying to figure out how a device with superior specs on paper can fall so flat on it's face in the real world.
> 
> As mentioned, not as many hands-on reviews of the LS9PT out there, but I can guarantee you it will not be pretty once they arrive.


Flat on it's face? Hyperbole anyone?


----------



## easystar

Youval said:


> Hey guys,
> Finally got around to installing my whole system.
> Took about 2 weeks to build a custom A/V unit with a pull out shelf to accommodate the LSP9T ant the required distance.
> I’ve only played around with it for an hour or so but image looks amazing.
> The one thing I’ll need help on is the picture adjustments. For the life of me and my installers we were not able to get the image perfectly aligned.
> The bottom corners just won’t fill up. The screen adjustment pointer won’t move anymore.
> There’s a little space on the bottom left and bottom right.It’s driving me insane.
> I gave up for tonight but I know I won’t be able to live with this.
> The screen adjustments are absolutely horrible.
> This is my first foray into the projector world and I’m being told that ceiling mounted projectors are much easier to set up.
> Anyhow here’s my set up for now.
> Custom built A/V Unit, Sony PS5, Apple TV4K, Nvidia Shield Pro, Bell TV (Canada), Samsung LSP9T.
> For Audio I went with the Marantz 7015 along with Totem Acoustic speakers.
> Three Tribe III in front, a dual 8” Tribe solution sub and two Tribe II’s for rear’s.
> For the screen I went with the EluneVision Aurora 8K Nano Edge UST Screen in 120”
> View attachment 3067327
> View attachment 3067331
> View attachment 3067333


Nice setup! How high is your ceiling? Mine is 7 ft and I’m thinking I need to mount a 120” screen as close to ceiling as possible. Looks like that’s what you did


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Youval

easystar said:


> Nice setup! How high is your ceiling? Mine is 7 ft and I’m thinking I need to mount a 120” screen as close to ceiling as possible. Looks like that’s what you did
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Thank you! 
Ceiling is about 8.5ft high and I left one inch from the ceiling.


----------



## survivor

easystar said:


> Nice setup! How high is your ceiling? Mine is 7 ft and I’m thinking I need to mount a 120” screen as close to ceiling as possible. Looks like that’s what you did
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


On the same boat here. I have a 9 ft tall ceiling but there is a slope where the projection wall meets the ceiling that takes away 2ft which left me with only 7ft of projection wall. For 120" projection, I will have to mount the screen as close to the slope as possible. That left me with only 25" from the bottom of the screen to the floor.


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## pastorteacher

is there a thread for the LSP7T? Got mine and want to compare notes with owners. BTW, did the LSP9T have isssues with some of the apps (Disney+ was one)? I got them working but only by installing the latest software update. The update was not downloadable, had to get it installed via USB.


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## goondo

pastorteacher said:


> is there a thread for the LSP7T? Got mine and want to compare notes with owners. BTW, did the LSP9T have isssues with some of the apps (Disney+ was one)? I got them working but only by installing the latest software update. The update was not downloadable, had to get it installed via USB.


I have not done the update and Disney plus is working for me.


----------



## santiagodraco

I've searched everywhere and can't find the comment where someone had found a working Logitech Harmony code set (ie a specific Samsung TV model) that worked perfectly with this projector the 9T). Anyone know which Samsung model they used? Thanks!


----------



## easystar

santiagodraco said:


> I've searched everywhere and can't find the comment where someone had found a working Logitech Harmony code set (ie a specific Samsung TV model) that worked perfectly with this projector the 9T). Anyone know which Samsung model they used? Thanks





santiagodraco said:


> I've searched everywhere and can't find the comment where someone had found a working Logitech Harmony code set (ie a specific Samsung TV model) that worked perfectly with this projector the 9T). Anyone know which Samsung model they used? Thanks!


I'm using Samsung 75Q90T code on the Harmony. Don't know if it's "perfect" but so far so good.


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## bennutt

santiagodraco said:


> I've searched everywhere and can't find the comment where someone had found a working Logitech Harmony code set (ie a specific Samsung TV model) that worked perfectly with this projector the 9T). Anyone know which Samsung model they used? Thanks!


That was me and I appended it to the first post of this thread. If there is any other information you guys think should be pinned there, let me know!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## d0nd

Ok. I received a lsp7 two weeks ago. Stumbled on this forum and ordered the lsp9 which I received today. Got tons to share regarding speckle, chromatic aberration, magentas, light bleeding, focus, credenzia... ect.
I am no professional (nor native english speaking) but i’ll try to share my experience with you guys this weekend or next week. So far, lsp9 is a « yes, but... » for me. Meanwhile, any question ? Fire up !


----------



## JereyWolf

For me, it seems like when the input device is a PC, the only available picture modes are standard and dynamic.
Has anyone found a way to change this or know of a PC/GPU setting that I might need to change?

*Edit*
I figured it out, With the PC connected directly to the projector it's recognized and labeled as a "PC" source. In order to get access to the other picture modes and all of the other picture settings, On the projector source list, I went to SOURCE > PC > EDIT > and then changed it to anything other than PC.

I need to have access to all of the settings when I attempt to calibrate.


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## bennutt

bennutt said:


> Focus doesn’t change it and no keystone adjustments.
> (2nd unit was raw setup screens right out of the box)
> 
> I don’t understand why it would improve on its own? What can effect the lens? Room temp? Does it align things during a boot process? It’s really weird.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I retract the improvement. It just depends on what it wants to show on a given day.
The CA issue creates a blur that kills the 4K benefit (in my opinion) - I notice it only on text and in general it has a beautiful colorful picture.
But.... dammmit.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## bix26

bennutt said:


> I retract the improvement. It just depends on what it wants to show on a given day.
> The CA issue creates a blur that kills the 4K benefit (in my opinion) - I notice it only on text and in general it has a beautiful colorful picture.
> But.... dammmit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That could be dithering (caused by chroma subsampling) if your connected to a PC you likely only have an hdmi 1.4 or 2.0 port. Have you tried lowering the frame rate and increasing the bit depth to 4.4.4. or 4.2.2?


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## bennutt

bix26 said:


> That could be dithering (caused by chroma subsampling) if your connected to a PC you likely only have an hdmi 1.4 or 2.0 port. Have you tried lowering the frame rate and increasing the bit depth to 4.4.4. or 4.2.2?


Yes, unfortunately it appears in the Samsung menu screens, so it doesn’t really matter what the source is doing at that point :/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## frdedrde

bennutt said:


> I retract the improvement. It just depends on what it wants to show on a given day.
> The CA issue creates a blur that kills the 4K benefit (in my opinion) - I notice it only on text and in general it has a beautiful colorful picture.
> But.... dammmit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


did you try defocusing?


----------



## bennutt

frdedrde said:


> did you try defocusing?


Yep.
In fact, that screen might be the best for showing if you have a CA issue or not.
Here is mine.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## d_bohne

I am in the process of building a theater room in the basement. It will be complete light controlled, and I have room for either a UST or traditional projector. If I go UST, I will get the LSP9T. What I don’t understand is how that compares with a traditional projector, like say a JVC NX5, in a light controlled environment? What would you guys recommend?


----------



## Mikenificent1

bennutt said:


> I retract the improvement. It just depends on what it wants to show on a given day.
> The CA issue creates a blur that kills the 4K benefit (in my opinion) - I notice it only on text and in general it has a beautiful colorful picture.
> But.... dammmit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Possibly temperature related? Either room temp or it has to warm up.


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## survivor

d_bohne said:


> I am in the process of building a theater room in the basement. It will be complete light controlled, and I have room for either a UST or traditional projector. If I go UST, I will get the LSP9T. What I don’t understand is how that compares with a traditional projector, like say a JVC NX5, in a light controlled environment? What would you guys recommend?


In a light controlled environment I think it is always recommended to go with traditional projector. For me personally I just don't want to deal with ceiling mounting and cabling thus I go with a UST projector, albeit also in a light controlled environment. UST projector takes a bit of effort to setup as there is no lens shift capability.


----------



## donbraxton

d_bohne said:


> I am in the process of building a theater room in the basement. It will be complete light controlled, and I have room for either a UST or traditional projector. If I go UST, I will get the LSP9T. What I don’t understand is how that compares with a traditional projector, like say a JVC NX5, in a light controlled environment? What would you guys recommend?


You might want to start a separate thread for this question because the discussion will trigger comparison between DLP vs DILA, UST vs Traditional Projector, 3Laser vs bulb. Having said that, I am also building a light controlled theater room, I went with LSP9T for 

3Laser, Wide Color Gamut
2600-2700 calibrated lumens ( bigger screen)
UST placement / portability
Sharp Image


----------



## TimA1

Guys, please take a look at this demo video

I don't know what Samsung did with red color, but here I can see just clear red laser color. I






I even took a photo on Canon 5Dmark4 to show you the color what I see on white screen with samsung LSP9T
It looks like some spot areas just filled with red laser color. Just some elements of the bridge. Do you see the same picture on your projectors? And BTW, all red color setting are at possible minimum


----------



## Casey_Bryson

TimA1 said:


> Guys, please take a look at this demo video
> 
> I don't know what Samsung did with red color, but here I can see just clear red laser color. I
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even took a photo on Canon 5Dmark4 to show you the color what I see on white screen with samsung LSP9T
> It looks like some spot areas just filled with red laser color. Just some elements of the bridge. Do you see the same picture on your projectors? And BTW, all red color setting are at possible minimum
> View attachment 3069328


Have you tried toning down the Magenta and/or blue?


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## TimA1

Yes. down to -40. Almost minimum


----------



## santiagodraco

TimA1 said:


> Guys, please take a look at this demo video
> 
> I don't know what Samsung did with red color, but here I can see just clear red laser color. I
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even took a photo on Canon 5Dmark4 to show you the color what I see on white screen with samsung LSP9T
> It looks like some spot areas just filled with red laser color. Just some elements of the bridge. Do you see the same picture on your projectors? And BTW, all red color setting are at possible minimum
> View attachment 3069328


Not normal. Mine is perfect and I haven't touched a single color setting. I'd do a full reset on all picture settings and see what happens. Also check your source and source cables. Run apps on the projector and see how those are. If all else fails you need to replace it possibly.


----------



## TimA1

all the same. I tried embedded apps and fireTV. It’s definitely getting better when you turn all red down. maybe the reason is the white screen? You have a CLR screen.


----------



## ProjectionHead

TimA1 said:


> all the same. I tried embedded apps and fireTV. It’s definitely getting better when you turn all red down. maybe the reason is the white screen?


If you are seeing that with both the built in app as well as your firestick it seems like you may have a bad unit. It should definitely not be doing that. Try a factory reset of the projector and see if that changes anything.


----------



## TimA1

Just fixed the problem. And you know how? I tried a Nvidia Shield. In setting you need to switch ON "auto match color space BT2020 and 709" and now everething looks like it has to be. So... the problem is in the coding probably. Projector doesn't understand FireTV's signals correctly. And even embeded apps (Netflix, Youtube) do not match the color space. I am not a PRO, sorry


----------



## TimA1

So, what I found after just finished my testing. Samsung's home main screen shows wrong color space and wrong colors! All embeded apps (Netflix, Youtube) shows wrong colors, FireStickTV - wrong colors, NVIDIA Shield (including all apps and content) - correct colors after "auto match color space" is enabled, BlueRay HDMI - correct colors.


----------



## sudhanese2003

TimA1 said:


> So, what I found after just finished my testing. Samsung's home main screen shows wrong color space and wrong colors! All embeded apps (Netflix, Youtube) shows wrong colors, FireStickTV - wrong colors, NVIDIA Shield (including all apps and content) - correct colors after "auto match color space" is enabled, BlueRay HDMI - correct colors.


Here is how the same image looks like on native youtube app. I did not change any color settings other than some minor preferences


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## TimA1

when i tried to take a photo of the screen, I found that even Canon D5M4 cannot capture the color you see with your eyes.


----------



## mcavsris

d0nd said:


> Ok. I received a lsp7 two weeks ago. Stumbled on this forum and ordered the lsp9 which I received today. Got tons to share regarding speckle, chromatic aberration, magentas, light bleeding, focus, credenzia... ect.
> I am no professional (nor native english speaking) but i’ll try to share my experience with you guys this weekend or next week. So far, lsp9 is a « yes, but... » for me. Meanwhile, any question ? Fire up !
> 
> View attachment 3068238


Amazing!! Finally some head to head comparison between the two! I have the 7 currently, which I'm using in a very well lit room comprised mostly of floor to ceiling windows lol (I know, I know, but I'm not going back to a flatscreen or non-UST projector). It's nice with the shades down even during the day, but not quite as bright as I had hoped (my ALR screen isn't here yet). It is certainly really not usable with the sun up and blinds up.

Do you think the 9 would give a substantially improved picture in that setting? More specifically, is it REALLY worth the 3k increased pricetag for the average user (me ?

Thanks in advance for your input and experience!

MC


----------



## R8tedm3

What would be the absolute best screen to pair with this projector, in order to get best black levels and the image to pop? It's all going in a pitch black basement with no windows.


----------



## bennutt

Just an FYI - I'm going to be doing a head-to-head compare between this and the LG HU85L. Two projectors enter, one projector leaves. Tune in next week.


----------



## bennutt

R8tedm3 said:


> What would be the absolute best screen to pair with this projector, in order to get best black levels and the image to pop? It's all going in a pitch black basement with no windows.


I went with the Grandview Dynamic at 120. Color is brilliant - LOVE the black levels - construction of the screen is top notch. I do see the occasional red sparkle in video games with extreme red on white background, but not sure if I am blaming projector or screen for that. Will know soon when I start shining an LG projector on it.


----------



## survivor

R8tedm3 said:


> What would be the absolute best screen to pair with this projector, in order to get best black levels and the image to pop? It's all going in a pitch black basement with no windows.


I believe the best UST specific screen would be SI Short Throw or Stewart Balon Edge UST. Either one of them is almost as expensive as the LSP9T.


----------



## ApeEx

I reached out to the projectorreview people back on 11/3 and they said they asked Samsung for a review unit. I followed up and they said as of today they haven't been able to get one due to a limited number of review units available, but Samsung committed to send them the next available uniy. They're hoping to have one early January.


----------



## donbraxton

R8tedm3 said:


> What would be the absolute best screen to pair with this projector, in order to get best black levels and the image to pop? It's all going in a pitch black basement with no windows.


I dont think you need a expensive ALR screen if the room is going to be pitch black ( see the comparison video, GF1 is gray screen). White/Gray Screen material should be fine. I would try with different screen samples before buying one. And with white/gray screen, you can go bigger than 120" screen (or even AT screen). Currently I am using 140" gray screen with this projector in a dark room.


----------



## d0nd

*LSP7T vs. LSP9T : Let's get ready to rumble !!!

Foreword*

First, a disclaimer : I am by no mean any kind of expert regarding projectors, image quality, home theaters or anything. Something else : I am french and we aren’t exactly known for our foreign languages prowess, so bare with me, I’ll do my best. I am no tech writer either. I just hope what I am about to write will get my points through ! 

Quick background : I have always dreamt of having some « ok » setup but so far only had a 720p Pioneer plasma tv before I switched five years ago to one of the first 4K 55" Sony screens available, which didn’t even have HDR by then.

As a side note, my setup, besides the display part which this post will focus on, is composed of a Sony STR-DN1080 AV receiver, a 7.1 Klipsch RSX-4 speaker system, an Nvidia Shield TV Pro linked to a Plex media server (Synology NAS backend), a Sony UBP-X800B UHD Blu-ray player and a PlayStation 5.

I never really got down the projector path until now (not that I didn’t want to !) because I was waiting for a dedicated room to accomodate my hobby, which just happened now after 15 long years of waiting. I now have a 5 x 5 meters (≃ 16x16 feet) dedicated light-controled room. Hooray ! The room needs some significative paint / carpet etc work to be really ready, which should happen in a month or so .

Late october, I pre-ordered a LSP7T projector and a Lumene Movie Palace UHD 4K 240 C Extra Bright screen. The later is a 100" UST-dedicated ALR screen with a 0.5 gain and 175° directivity made by french brand Lumene. I have no idea wether they just assembly stuff or have their own fabrics etc. I know there has been a lot going on in this thread regarding screens and I won’t get into it much. All I can say is I am pretty much happy with it and I don’t know if it got any kind of responsability in the differences I could witness between the LSP7T and LSP9T viewing experience.


*Meet… the LSP7T*

LSP7T was supposed to ship on november the 13th in France but I ended up receiving it on december the 4th because I pre-ordered it from the Samsung online store and Samsung and their logistics basically suck. Those were probably the longest weeks in my life.

My screen was waiting on its wall, my old Ikea credenza at its feet and it was finally time to see if my rocket-science calculations were correct (I simulated it all in Sketchup, just so you know).










Not so bad for a start. What the picture doesn’t show is the PJ is sitting on an open drawer, sticking out by 30cm (≃12 inches). I had to use the 15 points keystone adjustments a bit, but really not that much.

First impressions ? It was good, really good ; but not perfect.

In plain darkness, the picture was really crisp, colors very vivid and contrast rather satisfying. Blacks weren’t as black as I wish they were, but pretty much in line with whatever LED TV you randomly pick as a comparison. Not OLED, just the one, say, at your mom’s.

Brightness was ok in broad daylight, as in the screen was usable. Nothing like a TV though, blacks weren’t that deep and the overall impression was a bit lavish. I insist it’s totally usable in in day light as advertised, just don’t expect TV level brightness and contrast. It’s still an acomplishment for a projector and Samsung does deliver on its promise eventhoug not as much as their marketing team probably wish it did.


*Focus*

Text was somewhat blurry in the corners. Keystone usage didn’t help of course, but even without it text was still a bit off in the corners. Corners and edges are typically where score and useful metrics are displayed when watching sport or playing a game so those occasions will remind you your PJ is great, but not perfect. Not a deal breaker for me in any way though.


*Light leaks*

Last drawback I noticed using the LSP7T was light leaks on all four outer edges of the screen. Even when everything is fine tuned and test images perfectly aligned with the frame, I can notice a halo about five inches out of the screen which reminds me of the Philips ambilight gimmick sort of. It is not _that_ distracting but it just isn’t supposed to be there.

If you are looking for perfection in your setup, trying to figure out how to get the best out of your display, working your room colors and materials etc, that is one thing that you won’t be able to mitigate and feels like your setup is still approximate. Those leaks are very visible on my white wall, I am pretty sure it will be worse once the wall is painted mat black. Please note I forced the picture contrast to make it obvious but it's not as bad as it looks, not even to the point it's much distracting when watching a movie.











*My final take on the LSP7T*

To wrap it up, I feel the LSP7T offers a great experience in a light controlled room and a good enough one in a living room as a TV replacement.

There are trade-offs and your mileage may vary depending on the way you consume screen time but it’s ok for me at that price point when you consider the no-brainer setup and display size you are getting.

Please note that I have only tested it on the ALR screen I mentioned earlier and have no idea how it would have behaved on a standard white wall.


*So… why did I order the LSP9T ?*

At that point both projectors were very new and there were very little reliable reviews or user feedback about them available online (I beleive this weirdly holds true up to this day). I eventually found the AVS forum and proceeded to read the whole two threads about the LSP9T (Review and Owner threads).

Many members brought up problems I didn’t witness with the LSP7T : Rainbow Effect (RBE), Chromatic aberration (CA), laser speckles, some abnormal presence of magenta hue… This seemed quite weird to me because I didn’t witness any of this issues with my LSP7T and it seemed there were no consensus : _some_ members seemed affected by one or more of these issues, some other not so much or not at all.

I also kept in mind that those who often take time to make their voices heard online are those who face issues but those who don’t often stay quiet. So I decided to take my chance and order a LSP9T.

Why did I ? Simple : besides the few flaws I underlined earlier, I just loved my LSP7T.

I still had a few days to return it if I wanted to and If I kept it, I would probably have stuck to it for many years to come.
I loved it so much that I couldn’t resist higher lumens, blacker blacks, future proof HDR10+ (If Dolby Vision doesn’t take all, that is), insane throw ratio. Was it ok to double my bid for those features ? After seeing how good the LSP7T was, sure thing ! So I did go ahead and order the bigger fellow.


*Meet… the LSP9T*

I received it a couple of days later – luckily those products were finally in stock at several french retailers by then -, set it up and, well… The experience led me to this post.

First thing I had to deal with was its better throw ratio which made me accomodate my credenza differently. I didn’t need a pulled drawer anymore, the LSP9T would fit perfectly flush in my ikea piece of furniture if it didn’t have a board on the top covering it – which, well, most do obvisously. So I sawed the thing and it was just perfect. No need for a tailored piece of furniture !











*Chromatic aberrations*

The second thing I instantly noticed once powered on was the presence of Chromatic Aberrations (first)… which were not a thing with the LSP7T (second) :

















Is it a problem ? Yes… and no. I paid a premium and wanted a premium experience. At that price point, we have a right to expect something close to perfection and that’s not what I got.

This issue is only disturbing with white text or UI parts eg. menus, video games text items, subtitles… I can live with it, but it shouldn’t be there and you can’t really forget about it. My wife and kids noticed it without me pointing at it.


*Laser speckle*

I also noticed massive laser speckle, which aren’t a thing either with the LSP7T.

It’s hard to show in a picture especially if you don’t know what you’re looking for but the description made by @Run&Gun is pretty accurate : « _Speckle will look like a very fine rainbow “mist” in kind of a 3D effect on or bouncing slightly off the screen. Usually in white or very bright areas or very saturated colors_ ». You can (sort of) see it in the redish TEST picture above at a reasonable zoom level, and Wikipedia does a good job at illustrating it as well.

Some people said you notice it only checking from a few inches away from the screen, but I can really see it from my couch wich is about 10 feet away from the screen, especially in bright flat picture zones.

To be fair, it’s not that I’m trying to love the LSP9T but so far it’s never been a true distraction as far as I’m concerned ; I really got used to it and can somewhat « unsee » it already unless I mean to see it. But it’s there. It’s not due to my screen : I can witness it on my white painted wall or on a sheet of white paper as well. Same as the CA, my wife and kids spontaneously noticed speckle as well.

*Rainbow Effect*

A word about RBE now : I know some people can see it and some don’t for it got to do with physiological caracteristics of individuals. I had no idea wether I would be prone to it or not ; I _think_ I could see some stuff looking close to some descriptions I’ve read, more in a flash millisecond matter though like if I blink, wiggle my head, that sort of things. It is really not a problem for me with the LSP9T but I need to underline that I couldn’t witness such artefacts with the LSP7T which got a chromatic wheel.

I understand the LSP9T got 3 lasers but only one chip and that it still throws colors sequentially but I find this a bit counter-intuitive and disappointing. Can an update fix it ? Time will tell ; It’s no issue for me.

*Light leaks*

The last flaw I noticed exists with the LSP7T as well : light leaks. I am not knowledgable enough to know if it’s a common issue with UST projectors but it’s really what annoys me the most… When you think 4K, laser, etc your brains pictures a « razor sharp » experience.

The picture IS stunning but yet I feel like I am watching my parents travel diapositives 40 years ago when confronted to those leaks…



















*Colors*

Magenta… Many members noted pictures look somewhat red but don’t actually reflect what their eyes witness. Some others said they did have an actual magenta hue issue when watching the screen.

As far as I am concerned I don’t have any color problem (though some of my pictures do… 
The colors ARE different between the LSP7T and LSP9T though.










LSP9T on the left, LSP7T on the right, both on filmmaker mode.

I have never seen the Samsung menu on a TV before so I can’t tell which color is the « righter » one. The picture I took doesn’t render the colors accurately either. What my eyes actually saw :

Pantone 548-C on the LSP9T and Pantone 2766-C on the LSP7T

















While we’re at it, the previous picture illustrates how much brighter the LSP9T is. To be honest, the difference is much more noticeable in real life but my iPhone probably came up with some average between both.

Once again I am no expert and I have no idea what movies are « supposed » to look like. Wether I watched them on the LSP7T or LSP9T I had a great experience and didn’t feel like there were any color issue at all.


*Really just a mixed bag of flaws ???*

It seems like I only mention flaws, and I pretty much did so far. It is not fair.

Don’t get me wrong : despite its issues, I loved the LSP7T so much that I went the extra mile and bought the LSP9T. Where do I stand regarding this bigger beast ? I love it even more !

I didn’t get to mention it earlier but I didn’t witness the same focus issues on the LSP9T I did with the LSP7T. That’s not a game changer but worth noting still.

Its brightness is truly great, and unlike the LSP7T I have no doubt it will fit perfectly any living room for those looking to replace a TV in a bright environment.

Blacks are really blacker than those from the LSP7T. I have to admit I was slightly disappointed with those of the LSP7T, not with the ones from the LSP9T. We of course are not at OLED level either, but those are way blacker then the ones from my former Sony TV, which was at least ok for a backlit LED panel.

Shorter throw is also a key advantage for the LSP9T : it’s easier to integrate in a standard setup and the WAF often comes into play in this area…

I didn’t mention HDR10+ because I didn’t get time to test it yet, I don’t even know if my AV receiver can handle it at that point. Maybe I’ll test it from my PS5 later on but I really didn’t have time yet. Anyway on that matter the situation is easy in a comparison perspective : LSP7T doesn’t handle it. Period.

LSP9T also differentiates itself on the sound field but I didn’t test this : I don’t care, I am not planning to use it.


*What are my plans ?*

Well, the list of flaws is longer on the LSP9T side than on the LSP7T one : chromatic aberration, speckle, RBE (for some) and light leaks (on par). I didn’t notice it but some complained of a magenta hue they couldn’t correct.

On the other hand it got better brightness, way better blacks, supposedly better wider color ranges, shorter throw, no focus issue (and for those who care, a better integrated sound system).

I bet few people buying the LSP7T will complain whereas I beleive many LSP9T buyers might.
Besides a slight focus issue and light leaks there is very little to complain about when it comes to the LSP7T. As long as you don’t compare it to the LSP9T.

It’s a no-brainer for me : despite its multiple flaws there is no way I am going back to the LSP7T.

When I watch a movie or play a game on the LSP9T, its flaws sometimes do get in the way, but never as much as its huge benefits make my face grin.

It seems all consumers aren’t treated equally when it comes to the LSP9T : maybe there are some early production issues and all units aren’t born equal. Maybe some units are perfectly fine and some suffer one or several of the flaws I could witness.
I could understand it’s not that easy to fine-tune such cutting-edge technology, but it’s a consumer product, we aren’t beta testers. Samsung track records don’t seem so great when it comes to updating its stuff overtime ; maybe they’ll do better this time considering those projectors belong to its premium range and it’s their first go at an emerging yet blooming market they probably bet big on.

As far as I’m concerned I am keeping my LSP9T, will order a second one to compare with it and check if it suffers the exact same issues. I’ll keep the best one and maybe try this scheme again until I get the perfect unit – if it exists !


----------



## santiagodraco

The light "leaks" only occur if you had to adjust the screen inward where the unadjusted picture was off the screen. If you have a perfect setup and don't need to adjust the screen you would not have the light leakage.


----------



## TimA1

Guys, have you ever tried to calibrate a projector vs X-Rite i1 Display Pro plus?


----------



## d_bohne

donbraxton said:


> I dont think you need a expensive ALR screen if the room is going to be pitch black ( see the comparison video, GF1 is gray screen). White/Gray Screen material should be fine. I would try with different screen samples before buying one. And with white/gray screen, you can go bigger than 120" screen (or even AT screen). Currently I am using 140" gray screen with this projector in a dark room.


what screen are you using? I’m planning on getting this projector and using it with a 140” screen, the only one I can find is this X-Y one...






Source XY Screen 150 inch UST ALR Screen Ultra Thin Frame Projection Screen for Ultra Short Throw Projector 50 inch on m.alibaba.com


XY Screen 150 inch UST ALR Screen Ultra Thin Frame Projection Screen for Ultra Short Throw Projector 50 inch, You can get more details about from mobile site on m.alibaba.com




m.alibaba.com


----------



## Larry J

theos2 said:


> This would be relevant feedback if the two USTs were not compared side by side in the same room, screen and inputs. Having eliminated these variables, the HU85LA is amazing! Pretty damn close to perfection.
> 
> If you skipped the LS9, you avoided wasting 2 days trying to figure out how a device with superior specs on paper can fall so flat on it's face in the real world.
> 
> As mentioned, not as many hands-on reviews of the LS9PT out there, but I can guarantee you it will not be pretty once they arrive.


Yeah, well I don't agree with any of that. I've seen the LG and its fine but nothing close to Oled. I didn't see it on my screen but the reviews from places that normally know what they are doing, do not put it near perfection. Most state modest contrast and somewhat under powered for HDR. If someone isn't fighting ambient light then I'm not sure why people run to those special UST screens so fast. If they want better black levels then go with JVC or some other long throw types in controlled lighting. 

Someone stated somewhere that some screens showed laser speckle more than others. I know the gray type screens I've use cut back brightness and white whites and not as sharp. Plus some other things they add. The stewart studiotek 130 G4 I use is a reference quality screen. Why would a gray screen look better overall in controlled light. I don't see it myself and really like the G4 screen. 

So yeah, I like the Samsung and I'm sure I would like the LG. That laser mist speckle just isn't a thing though and if it was I'd say so. Not with mine and watching my screen. If I did read a review that claimed what you do with the Samsung, I'd never read anything else from that place again. But it's fine, glad you like your LG.


----------



## bebbsie23

d0nd said:


> *
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> LSP7T vs. LSP9T : Let's get ready to rumble !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> Foreword
> 
> 
> *
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> First, a disclaimer : I am by no mean any kind of expert regarding projectors, image quality, home theaters or anything. Something else : I am french and we aren’t exactly known for our foreign languages prowess, so bare with me, I’ll do my best. I am no tech writer either. I just hope what I am about to write will get my points through !
> 
> Quick background : I have always dreamt of having some « ok » setup but so far only had a 720p Pioneer plasma tv before I switched five years ago to one of the first 4K 55" Sony screens available, which didn’t even have HDR by then.
> 
> As a side note, my setup, besides the display part which this post will focus on, is composed of a Sony STR-DN1080 AV receiver, a 7.1 Klipsch RSX-4 speaker system, an Nvidia Shield TV Pro linked to a Plex media server (Synology NAS backend), a Sony UBP-X800B UHD Blu-ray player and a PlayStation 5.
> 
> I never really got down the projector path until now (not that I didn’t want to !) because I was waiting for a dedicated room to accomodate my hobby, which just happened now after 15 long years of waiting. I now have a 5 x 5 meters (≃ 16x16 feet) dedicated light-controled room. Hooray ! The room needs some significative paint / carpet etc work to be really ready, which should happen in a month or so .
> 
> Late october, I pre-ordered a LSP7T projector and a Lumene Movie Palace UHD 4K 240 C Extra Bright screen. The later is a 100" UST-dedicated ALR screen with a 0.5 gain and 175° directivity made by french brand Lumene. I have no idea wether they just assembly stuff or have their own fabrics etc. I know there has been a lot going on in this thread regarding screens and I won’t get into it much. All I can say is I am pretty much happy with it and I don’t know if it got any kind of responsability in the differences I could witness between the LSP7T and LSP9T viewing experience.
> 
> 
> *Meet… the LSP7T*
> 
> LSP7T was supposed to ship on november the 13th in France but I ended up receiving it on december the 4th because I pre-ordered it from the Samsung online store and Samsung and their logistics basically suck. Those were probably the longest weeks in my life.
> 
> My screen was waiting on its wall, my old Ikea credenza at its feet and it was finally time to see if my rocket-science calculations were correct (I simulated it all in Sketchup, just so you know).
> 
> View attachment 3070392
> 
> 
> Not so bad for a start. What the picture doesn’t show is the PJ is sitting on an open drawer, sticking out by 30cm (≃12 inches). I had to use the 15 points keystone adjustments a bit, but really not that much.
> 
> First impressions ? It was good, really good ; but not perfect.
> 
> In plain darkness, the picture was really crisp, colors very vivid and contrast rather satisfying. Blacks weren’t as black as I wish they were, but pretty much in line with whatever LED TV you randomly pick as a comparison. Not OLED, just the one, say, at your mom’s.
> 
> Brightness was ok in broad daylight, as in the screen was usable. Nothing like a TV though, blacks weren’t that deep and the overall impression was a bit lavish. I insist it’s totally usable in in day light as advertised, just don’t expect TV level brightness and contrast. It’s still an acomplishment for a projector and Samsung does deliver on its promise eventhoug not as much as their marketing team probably wish it did.
> 
> 
> *Focus*
> 
> Text was somewhat blurry in the corners. Keystone usage didn’t help of course, but even without it text was still a bit off in the corners. Corners and edges are typically where score and useful metrics are displayed when watching sport or playing a game so those occasions will remind you your PJ is great, but not perfect. Not a deal breaker for me in any way though.
> 
> 
> *Light leaks*
> 
> Last drawback I noticed using the LSP7T was light leaks on all four outer edges of the screen. Even when everything is fine tuned and test images perfectly aligned with the frame, I can notice a halo about five inches out of the screen which reminds me of the Philips ambilight gimmick sort of. It is not _that_ distracting but it just isn’t supposed to be there.
> 
> If you are looking for perfection in your setup, trying to figure out how to get the best out of your display, working your room colors and materials etc, that is one thing that you won’t be able to mitigate and feels like your setup is still approximate. Those leaks are very visible on my white wall, I am pretty sure it will be worse once the wall is painted mat black. Please note I forced the picture contrast to make it obvious but it's not as bad as it looks, not even to the point it's much distracting when watching a movie.
> 
> View attachment 3070393
> 
> 
> 
> *My final take on the LSP7T*
> 
> To wrap it up, I feel the LSP7T offers a great experience in a light controlled room and a good enough one in a living room as a TV replacement.
> 
> There are trade-offs and your mileage may vary depending on the way you consume screen time but it’s ok for me at that price point when you consider the no-brainer setup and display size you are getting.
> 
> Please note that I have only tested it on the ALR screen I mentioned earlier and have no idea how it would have behaved on a standard white wall.
> 
> 
> *So… why did I order the LSP9T ?*
> 
> At that point both projectors were very new and there were very little reliable reviews or user feedback about them available online (I beleive this weirdly holds true up to this day). I eventually found the AVS forum and proceeded to read the whole two threads about the LSP9T (Review and Owner threads).
> 
> Many members brought up problems I didn’t witness with the LSP7T : Rainbow Effect (RBE), Chromatic aberration (CA), laser speckles, some abnormal presence of magenta hue… This seemed quite weird to me because I didn’t witness any of this issues with my LSP7T and it seemed there were no consensus : _some_ members seemed affected by one or more of these issues, some other not so much or not at all.
> 
> I also kept in mind that those who often take time to make their voices heard online are those who face issues but those who don’t often stay quiet. So I decided to take my chance and order a LSP9T.
> 
> Why did I ? Simple : besides the few flaws I underlined earlier, I just loved my LSP7T.
> 
> I still had a few days to return it if I wanted to and If I kept it, I would probably have stuck to it for many years to come.
> I loved it so much that I couldn’t resist higher lumens, blacker blacks, future proof HDR10+ (If Dolby Vision doesn’t take all, that is), insane throw ratio. Was it ok to double my bid for those features ? After seeing how good the LSP7T was, sure thing ! So I did go ahead and order the bigger fellow.
> 
> 
> *Meet… the LSP9T*
> 
> I received it a couple of days later – luckily those products were finally in stock at several french retailers by then -, set it up and, well… The experience led me to this post.
> 
> First thing I had to deal with was its better throw ratio which made me accomodate my credenza differently. I didn’t need a pulled drawer anymore, the LSP9T would fit perfectly flush in my ikea piece of furniture if it didn’t have a board on the top covering it – which, well, most do obvisously. So I sawed the thing and it was just perfect. No need for a tailored piece of furniture !
> 
> View attachment 3070394
> 
> 
> 
> *Chromatic aberrations*
> 
> The second thing I instantly noticed once powered on was the presence of Chromatic Aberrations (first)… which were not a thing with the LSP7T (second) :
> 
> View attachment 3070395
> View attachment 3070396
> 
> 
> Is it a problem ? Yes… and no. I paid a premium and wanted a premium experience. At that price point, we have a right to expect something close to perfection and that’s not what I got.
> 
> This issue is only disturbing with white text or UI parts eg. menus, video games text items, subtitles… I can live with it, but it shouldn’t be there and you can’t really forget about it. My wife and kids noticed it without me pointing at it.
> 
> 
> *Laser speckle*
> 
> I also noticed massive laser speckle, which aren’t a thing either with the LSP7T.
> 
> It’s hard to show in a picture especially if you don’t know what you’re looking for but the description made by @Run&Gun is pretty accurate : « _Speckle will look like a very fine rainbow “mist” in kind of a 3D effect on or bouncing slightly off the screen. Usually in white or very bright areas or very saturated colors_ ». You can (sort of) see it in the redish TEST picture above at a reasonable zoom level, and Wikipedia does a good job at illustrating it as well.
> 
> Some people said you notice it only checking from a few inches away from the screen, but I can really see it from my couch wich is about 10 feet away from the screen, especially in bright flat picture zones.
> 
> To be fair, it’s not that I’m trying to love the LSP9T but so far it’s never been a true distraction as far as I’m concerned ; I really got used to it and can somewhat « unsee » it already unless I mean to see it. But it’s there. It’s not due to my screen : I can witness it on my white painted wall or on a sheet of white paper as well. Same as the CA, my wife and kids spontaneously noticed speckle as well.
> 
> *Rainbow Effect*
> 
> A word about RBE now : I know some people can see it and some don’t for it got to do with physiological caracteristics of individuals. I had no idea wether I would be prone to it or not ; I _think_ I could see some stuff looking close to some descriptions I’ve read, more in a flash millisecond matter though like if I blink, wiggle my head, that sort of things. It is really not a problem for me with the LSP9T but I need to underline that I couldn’t witness such artefacts with the LSP7T which got a chromatic wheel.
> 
> I understand the LSP9T got 3 lasers but only one chip and that it still throws colors sequentially but I find this a bit counter-intuitive and disappointing. Can an update fix it ? Time will tell ; It’s no issue for me.
> 
> *Light leaks*
> 
> The last flaw I noticed exists with the LSP7T as well : light leaks. I am not knowledgable enough to know if it’s a common issue with UST projectors but it’s really what annoys me the most… When you think 4K, laser, etc your brains pictures a « razor sharp » experience.
> 
> The picture IS stunning but yet I feel like I am watching my parents travel diapositives 40 years ago when confronted to those leaks…
> 
> View attachment 3070398
> 
> 
> View attachment 3070399
> 
> 
> *Colors*
> 
> Magenta… Many members noted pictures look somewhat red but don’t actually reflect what their eyes witness. Some others said they did have an actual magenta hue issue when watching the screen.
> 
> As far as I am concerned I don’t have any color problem (though some of my pictures do…
> The colors ARE different between the LSP7T and LSP9T though.
> 
> View attachment 3070400
> 
> 
> LSP9T on the left, LSP7T on the right, both on filmmaker mode.
> 
> I have never seen the Samsung menu on a TV before so I can’t tell which color is the « righter » one. The picture I took doesn’t render the colors accurately either. What my eyes actually saw :
> 
> Pantone 548-C on the LSP9T and Pantone 2766-C on the LSP7T
> 
> View attachment 3070434
> View attachment 3070403
> 
> 
> While we’re at it, the previous picture illustrates how much brighter the LSP9T is. To be honest, the difference is much more noticeable in real life but my iPhone probably came up with some average between both.
> 
> Once again I am no expert and I have no idea what movies are « supposed » to look like. Wether I watched them on the LSP7T or LSP9T I had a great experience and didn’t feel like there were any color issue at all.
> 
> 
> *Really just a mixed bag of flaws ???*
> 
> It seems like I only mention flaws, and I pretty much did so far. It is not fair.
> 
> Don’t get me wrong : despite its issues, I loved the LSP7T so much that I went the extra mile and bought the LSP9T. Where do I stand regarding this bigger beast ? I love it even more !
> 
> I didn’t get to mention it earlier but I didn’t witness the same focus issues on the LSP9T I did with the LSP7T. That’s not a game changer but worth noting still.
> 
> Its brightness is truly great, and unlike the LSP7T I have no doubt it will fit perfectly any living room for those looking to replace a TV in a bright environment.
> 
> Blacks are really blacker than those from the LSP7T. I have to admit I was slightly disappointed with those of the LSP7T, not with the ones from the LSP9T. We of course are not at OLED level either, but those are way blacker then the ones from my former Sony TV, which was at least ok for a backlit LED panel.
> 
> Shorter throw is also a key advantage for the LSP9T : it’s easier to integrate in a standard setup and the WAF often comes into play in this area…
> 
> I didn’t mention HDR10+ because I didn’t get time to test it yet, I don’t even know if my AV receiver can handle it at that point. Maybe I’ll test it from my PS5 later on but I really didn’t have time yet. Anyway on that matter the situation is easy in a comparison perspective : LSP7T doesn’t handle it. Period.
> 
> LSP9T also differentiates itself on the sound field but I didn’t test this : I don’t care, I am not planning to use it.
> 
> 
> *What are my plans ?*
> 
> Well, the list of flaws is longer on the LSP9T side than on the LSP7T one : chromatic aberration, speckle, RBE (for some) and light leaks (on par). I didn’t notice it but some complained of a magenta hue they couldn’t correct.
> 
> On the other hand it got better brightness, way better blacks, supposedly better wider color ranges, shorter throw, no focus issue (and for those who care, a better integrated sound system).
> 
> I bet few people buying the LSP7T will complain whereas I beleive many LSP9T buyers might.
> Besides a slight focus issue and light leaks there is very little to complain about when it comes to the LSP7T. As long as you don’t compare it to the LSP9T.
> 
> It’s a no-brainer for me : despite its multiple flaws there is no way I am going back to the LSP7T.
> 
> When I watch a movie or play a game on the LSP9T, its flaws sometimes do get in the way, but never as much as its huge benefits make my face grin.
> 
> It seems all consumers aren’t treated equally when it comes to the LSP9T : maybe there are some early production issues and all units aren’t born equal. Maybe some units are perfectly fine and some suffer one or several of the flaws I could witness.
> I could understand it’s not that easy to fine-tune such cutting-edge technology, but it’s a consumer product, we aren’t beta testers. Samsung track records don’t seem so great when it comes to updating its stuff overtime ; maybe they’ll do better this time considering those projectors belong to its premium range and it’s their first go at an emerging yet blooming market they probably bet big on.
> 
> As far as I’m concerned I am keeping my LSP9T, will order a second one to compare with it and check if it suffers the exact same issues. I’ll keep the best one and maybe try this scheme again until I get the perfect unit – if it exists !



Thank you for you're comparison and thoughts on these two models. I must admit that I wouldn't have known English wasn't your native language if you hadn't mentioned it at the outset. 

I placed an order for the LSP9T mid November, but unfortunately my retailer informs me that it will be mid February before it ships  I do find it frustrating that issues with CA and LS keep rearing their head on the premium model and hope that it can be resolved by exchange, firmware update or calibration. However, you give me hope that it may be something I can live with if I have to, given the overwhelming positives. 

I do want to offer a word of warning with your set-up... The LSP9T looks very snug in your unit and I worry you may not have sufficient ventilation on the sides. It may be worth drilling holes or making some large cut-outs in the side panels that abut the projector to ensure you don't run into any significant over-heating issues.

Thank you again and I look forward to more thoughts and pictures from you, whilst I wait for mine to arrive.

Merry Christmas


----------



## donbraxton

d_bohne said:


> what screen are you using? I’m planning on getting this projector and using it with a 140” screen, the only one I can find is this X-Y one...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Source XY Screen 150 inch UST ALR Screen Ultra Thin Frame Projection Screen for Ultra Short Throw Projector 50 inch on m.alibaba.com
> 
> 
> XY Screen 150 inch UST ALR Screen Ultra Thin Frame Projection Screen for Ultra Short Throw Projector 50 inch, You can get more details about from mobile site on m.alibaba.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> m.alibaba.com



I am using Elite Screens CineGray material ,



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GTQDYDC/ref=emc_b_5_t



XY 150 inch screen material is different from PET Crystal. It is PET Grid. check the video for comparison.

You might want to check this manufacturer for 140" UST ALR

www.samsav.com/smasscreenpro20181/products/19803705.html

Both the manufactures will send samples for comparison.


----------



## d_bohne

donbraxton said:


> I am using Elite Screens CineGray material ,
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GTQDYDC/ref=emc_b_5_t
> 
> 
> 
> XY 150 inch screen material is different from PET Crystal. It is PET Grid. check the video for comparison.
> 
> You might want to check this manufacturer for 140" UST ALR
> 
> www.samsav.com/smasscreenpro20181/products/19803705.html
> 
> Both the manufactures will send samples for comparison.


Thank you for the info! I do have a lot more questions now. This is my first projector, so please forgive my lack of knowledge...
What is the difference between PET crystal and PET grid? Looking at the Amazon link, and the samsav link, both list 135” size, but not 140”? (In 16:9 aspect ratio). I will have complete light control, would a gray screen be better or a white? Is there a general consensus on what the “best” screen is for this projector in a light controlled environment up to 140” size, for under 2 grand?


----------



## bennutt

LSP9T vs HU85LA
First props to D0nd for that awesome compare post between 7 and 9... this won’t be as detailed, just some observations after an evening of LG vs Samsung.

Fan Noise - I hear the LG. Samsung was silent.

Setup - LG has 4 adjustable feet... winner LG.

Focus - the manual focus wheel is much easier on the LG, however... focus changes the border size making it trickier to dial in. Toss up on focus.

Chromatic Aberration - easy winner here... LG









Brightness control - LG has one. Winner LG.

Color space - Samsung does full bt2020 and adds a plus to HDR10. My HDR10+ content includes 5 total 4K discs and limited Amazon content from Fire TV. The LG has a brilliant picture and I would challenge anyone to tell the difference between HDR10 on the LG vs HDR10+ on the Samsung. Bonus: Reduced speckle on the LG! 

Blacks.. equal on both projectors.

Game lag - exactly equal around 50ms, both auto switch to that mode. Toss Up.

Remote- LG uses a ridiculous floaty mouse gyro remote. Winner - Samsung.

Light bleed. LG has more of it, but I have a rock wall surface that help hide the issue. Still, slight winner Samsung.

Cost- LG is $1000 less. Clear winner at the wallet.

If I decide that more fan noise from LG is better than CA and occasional red speckle, Samsung will be going back.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## d0nd

santiagodraco said:


> The light "leaks" only occur if you had to adjust the screen inward where the unadjusted picture was off the screen. If you have a perfect setup and don't need to adjust the screen you would not have the light leakage.


I hung the screen before receiving the PJs so any adjustment I made was on the Samsung side. Now my house is 100+ years old and I can’t promise anything is actually built straight 
It’s great to learn that I can probably fix the light leaks by fine-tuning positionning. Much thanks for the info !


----------



## donbraxton

d_bohne said:


> Thank you for the info! I do have a lot more questions now. This is my first projector, so please forgive my lack of knowledge...
> What is the difference between PET crystal and PET grid? Looking at the Amazon link, and the samsav link, both list 135” size, but not 140”? (In 16:9 aspect ratio). I will have complete light control, would a gray screen be better or a white? Is there a general consensus on what the “best” screen is for this projector in a light controlled environment up to 140” size, for under 2 grand?


_disclaimer : I am not a expert on projectors or screen materials. I am just sharing the info which I have researched till now. _

AFAIK, PET Crystal has better gain & ALR property than PET Grid. but currently it has a size limit to 120.
Samsav link, scroll to the bottom for a size table, it has 140" screen.

The Cinegray material I got has couple of inches more than mentioned dimension on Amazon. If you want a bigger size, check carls place
Projector Screen Materials . Note that these are raw screen materials and doesnt come with a frame. I used double sided tape to stick the screen to the wall. I also covered the side walls / ceiling with black fabric (from walmart), again with double sided tape. If you want screen with frame, you might want to check budget screens like Elite Screens , Silver Ticket Screens etc.. with gray/white screen material. These are *non ALR screens.*

In complete light control room, on gray screen the blacks will appear better but it will also reduce the whites and picture brightness. I haven't tested this projector with a white screen so I cannot comment on the picture. Apart from my projector, I haven't seen any pictures on this thread where this projector is installed in a light controlled environment, so I am not sure about the general consensus on what the “best” screen is for this projector in a light controlled environment.

If I were you, I would go with the gray screen in a light controlled environment. So far I am happy with the setup.


----------



## d0nd

bebbsie23 said:


> Thank you for you're comparison and thoughts on these two models. I must admit that I wouldn't have known English wasn't your native language if you hadn't mentioned it at the outset.
> 
> I placed an order for the LSP9T mid November, but unfortunately my retailer informs me that it will be mid February before it ships  I do find it frustrating that issues with CA and LS keep rearing their head on the premium model and hope that it can be resolved by exchange, firmware update or calibration. However, you give me hope that it may be something I can live with if I have to, given the overwhelming positives.
> 
> I do want to offer a word of warning with your set-up... The LSP9T looks very snug in your unit and I worry you may not have sufficient ventilation on the sides. It may be worth drilling holes or making some large cut-outs in the side panels that abut the projector to ensure you don't run into any significant over-heating issues.
> 
> Thank you again and I look forward to more thoughts and pictures from you, whilst I wait for mine to arrive.
> 
> Merry Christmas


You are absolutely correct, I will have to find a better solution over time. So far the fans didn’t go bersek but they are probably there for a reason!


----------



## d0nd

mcavsris said:


> Amazing!! Finally some head to head comparison between the two! I have the 7 currently, which I'm using in a very well lit room comprised mostly of floor to ceiling windows lol (I know, I know, but I'm not going back to a flatscreen or non-UST projector). It's nice with the shades down even during the day, but not quite as bright as I had hoped (my ALR screen isn't here yet). It is certainly really not usable with the sun up and blinds up.
> 
> Do you think the 9 would give a substantially improved picture in that setting? More specifically, is it REALLY worth the 3k increased pricetag for the average user (me ?
> 
> Thanks in advance for your input and experience!
> 
> MC


I beleive my review covers your concerns, but don’t hesitate to ask away if I missed on something.


----------



## theos2

bennutt said:


> LSP9T vs HU85LA
> First props to D0nd for that awesome compare post between 7 and 9... this won’t be as detailed, just some observations after an evening of LG vs Samsung.
> 
> Fan Noise - I hear the LG. Samsung was silent.
> 
> Setup - LG has 4 adjustable feet... winner LG.
> 
> Focus - the manual focus wheel is much easier on the LG, however... focus changes the border size making it trickier to dial in. Toss up on focus.
> 
> Chromatic Aberration - easy winner here... LG
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brightness control - LG has one. Winner LG.
> 
> Color space - Samsung does full bt2020 and adds a plus to HDR10. My HDR10+ content includes 5 total 4K discs and limited Amazon content from Fire TV. The LG has a brilliant picture and I would challenge anyone to tell the difference between HDR10 on the LG vs HDR10+ on the Samsung. Bonus: Reduced speckle on the LG!
> 
> Blacks.. equal on both projectors.
> 
> Game lag - exactly equal around 50ms, both auto switch to that mode. Toss Up.
> 
> Remote- LG uses a ridiculous floaty mouse gyro remote. Winner - Samsung.
> 
> Light bleed. LG has more of it, but I have a rock wall surface that help hide the issue. Still, slight winner Samsung.
> 
> Cost- LG is $1000 less. Clear winner at the wallet.
> 
> If I decide that more fan noise from LG is better than CA and occasional red speckle, Samsung will be going back.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Looks like now there are two of us that have done the same side by side comparison and have come to the same conclusion, even without price being a factor, but RBE being a factor for my eyes.

Thanks for sharing, as now I more confident that I did not have a defective unit from Samsung.

Excellent point on the four legs. Odd choice to only have 3 points of contact with only two being adjustable.


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## ProjectionHead

theos2 said:


> Looks like now there are two of us that have done the same side by side comparison and have come to the same conclusion, even without price being a factor, but RBE being a factor for my eyes.
> 
> Thanks for sharing, as now I more confident that I did not have a defective unit from Samsung.
> 
> Excellent point on the four legs. Odd choice to only have 3 points of contact with only two being adjustable.


I've done a side by side on these too and on my LSP9T the laser speckle was just something that I couldn't get over. Granted, my LSP9T is a pre-production model from Samsung so it may vary from what is shipping to end users, but based on the other people's comments in this thread it appears to affect production units too.

I've done 3 recent side by side demos in our showroom and 2 out of the 3 customers chose the LG. That same 2/3 lines up with the sales teams opinion as well, preferring the LG.

We just shot a side-by-side video comparison cycling through the various picture modes on each that will be published in our vendor subforum (hopefully) next week.

...4 adjustable feet really does make a big difference in terms of ease of setup. I don't know why this isn't the norm.


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## JereyWolf

The three feet on the LSP9T are kind of annoying to adjust....I tilt the whole projector up, rotate the feet a few turns and then test the alignment again and again. It'd be nice if you could adjust the feet without lifting the projector...I suppose a pair channels locks could do the job.

On RBE....when I first set up my LSP9T, 28 days ago, the rainbow effect was pretty severe for me. I immediately thought, "I'm not sure if I want to keep this". But now, after a month of use and the addition of bias lighting, I rarely notice it.


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## Larry J

donbraxton said:


> I haven't seen any pictures on this thread where this projector is installed in a light controlled environment.


I assume you mean in a room that has no windows and made just for a projector? I posted some that are in a room that has almost no light colors for reflections and no light coming in. But not a picture of the actual room. I'll put a 2 of the 5 pictures here but not in the mood to take any more lately. Not a big fan of pictures like that because they usually don't show up in the right way. The reds show up more orange with that Song camera I used, while the actual picture on the screen is a deep red.


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## goondo

Samsung needs to be calibrated based on all the pictures. Understandable that the LG would win on default settings. For me the best settings to get to 6500K white point, and 2.4 gamma was the following settings for SDR viewing. Again these setting are for my room, my preferences, no screen just projecting onto a beige wall, and in the dark.

Movie Preset:
Contrast (Controls both white point and light output): 41
Shadow Detail (Brightness setting on samsung): -5
Color Tone: Cool
Gamma: -1
White Balance 2 pt:
R-Gain: -10
B-Gain: -20
B-Offset: -1


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## donbraxton

Larry J said:


> I assume you mean in a room that has no windows and made just for a projector? I posted some that are in a room that has almost no light colors for reflections and no light coming in. But not a picture of the actual room. I'll put a 2 of the 5 pictures here but not in the mood to take any more lately. Not a big fan of pictures like that because they usually don't show up in the right way. The reds show up more orange with that Song camera I used, while the actual picture on the screen is a deep red.


Yes... I must have missed your pics... Good blacks.. checked your previous posts... I believe the screen is Studiotek G3, 1.3 gain. what is the screen size?.. 
this is a bright projector, do you see any hot spotting due to high gain screen?..


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## Larry J

ProjectionHead said:


> I've done 3 recent side by side demos in our showroom and 2 out of the 3 customers chose the LG. That same 2/3 lines up with the sales teams opinion as well, preferring the LG.
> 
> We just shot a side-by-side video comparison cycling through the various picture modes on each that will be published in our vendor subforum (hopefully) next week.


You said in the review the sales team didn't mention the laser speckle, right? I'd like to see pictures of the that but wondering if if will show up correctly with camera video. Also just wondering if you have watched the Samsung on a good white screen? Just curious to know what you see on one regarding the speckle. I know what it looks its suppose to look like, just can't find it cannot find it even on really white scenes myself. 

It's not like I'm blind with the Samsung because I bought one. I've changed PJ's quite often over the last 20-25 years and wanted to see what I thought of it. I also don't have any more money in the Samsung vs the LG, but that is just because of the way I can get one. I just don't find the LG to be as interesting myself or have the same color. Which for some must be a good thing apparently. 

I noticed in another post someone said the LG wins because it has a brightness control? Shadow detail is the brightness on the Samsung. 

I wasted quite a bit of time in the past watching shows on Amazon that are in HDR10+ and comparing the same on the Apple TV 4k box because it doesn't do 10+. I noticed in quite a few shows the black levels and shadow detail was much better with 10+. It was easy to see and I could switch between them easy. I was curious about that and that is what I saw and fast to see it. Some like The Expanse and Jack Ryan. Also when I play the montage on spears and munsil calibration disc, 10+ still triggers on the Samsung when watching with Dolby vision.


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## Larry J

donbraxton said:


> Yes... I must have missed your pics... Good blacks.. checked your previous posts... I believe the screen is Studiotek G3, 1.3 gain. what is the screen size?..
> this is a bright projector, do you see any hot spotting due to high gain screen?..


 Yes, the G4 version which is all you can buy now. Really good screen and quite a few reviews around on how good it is. I see almost no hot spotting on the G4 version vs some of the previous ones. I'd have to pay special attention to find where it might be very slight hot spotting. Its 110". But like I've said before and common knowledge I guess, that screen isn't going to handle external light very well with dark content. It can handle quite a bit and I can watch it with light because the PJ is so bright and the screen has gain. But still its best to control the lighting.


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## bennutt

It is weird that the laser used in The Samsung messes with iPhone pictures but the LG doesn’t affect them.

Unedited Samsung









Unedited LG



















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Mikenificent1

Larry J said:


> You said in the review the sales team didn't mention the laser speckle, right? I'd like to see pictures of the that but wondering if if will show up correctly with camera video. Also just wondering if you have watched the Samsung on a good white screen? Just curious to know what you see on one regarding the speckle. I know what it looks its suppose to look like, just can't find it cannot find it even on really white scenes myself.
> 
> It's not like I'm blind with the Samsung because I bought one. I've changed PJ's quite often over the last 20-25 years and wanted to see what I thought of it. I also don't have any more money in the Samsung vs the LG, but that is just because of the way I can get one. I just don't find the LG to be as interesting myself or have the same color. Which for some must be a good thing apparently.
> 
> I noticed in another post someone said the LG wins because it has a brightness control? Shadow detail is the brightness on the Samsung.
> 
> I wasted quite a bit of time in the past watching shows on Amazon that are in HDR10+ and comparing the same on the Apple TV 4k box because it doesn't do 10+. I noticed in quite a few shows the black levels and shadow detail was much better with 10+. It was easy to see and I could switch between them easy. I was curious about that and that is what I saw and fast to see it. Some like The Expanse and Jack Ryan. Also when I play the montage on spears and munsil calibration disc, 10+ still triggers on the Samsung when watching with Dolby vision.


Wait are you saying that it’s applying hdr10+ frame by frame tone mapping when you play any Dolby Vision movie? Pretty cool if so.


----------



## Ricimer

pastorteacher said:


> is there a thread for the LSP7T? Got mine and want to compare notes with owners. BTW, did the LSP9T have isssues with some of the apps (Disney+ was one)? I got them working but only by installing the latest software update. The update was not downloadable, had to get it installed via USB.


+1 for this, maybe some settings are applicable from this thread but i think a LSP7T Owners thread is justifiable?


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## TimA1

Has someone tried to calibrate a projector (itself) using a X-Rite i1 Display Pro? Is it possible? I mean to calibrate the projector, not a building a color icc profile


----------



## bjanssen

TimA1 said:


> Has someone tried to calibrate a projector (itself) using a X-Rite i1 Display Pro? Is it possible? I mean to calibrate the projector, not a building a color icc profile


I would like to know this too. I heard they don’t work well with laser based projectors? Is that true?


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## bennutt

As of an hour ago, I’m no longer an “owner” of this one.
To me, chromatic aberration was the deal breaker. It doesn’t make sense to have an awesome 4K projector with essentially “blurry” drop-shadowed white text I can’t get rid of.

Went with the LG. It has more fan noise, but that’s possible to drown out with any normal volume.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## JereyWolf

I've done an SDR calibration using that colorimeter (xrite i1 display pro) and HCFR software. It was the first display calibration that I've attempted...so take my opinion lightly, but I thought it was relatively easy to do and the results were pretty good.
After calibrating for the D65 gray scale and Rec 709 color space I got a result that I kind of expected based on what I've seen "movie" presets looking like. It had a very positive impact on the color and realism of the image, but for my taste the image was too warm. I'm still mostly using my semi-calibrated settings with SDR content because the colors look so much better, but on that preset I've switched the color temperature from warm 2 to standard (sometimes I use warm 1). I may have botched the calibration, but either way I did make a significantly better looking (to my eyes) movie preset vs. the standard preset.
This projector seems to have every necessary feature for doing a full calibration. The custom color space setting and full color management system along with 2 and 10 point white balance controls, I even used the blue only mode. I'm a total noob with this but I'd really like to learn more.Display calibration seems to be a huge subject. At the end of the day though, I care more about an image that I find pleasing than a 100% accurate one.


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## bjanssen

JereyWolf said:


> I've done an SDR calibration using that colorimeter (xrite i1 display pro) and HCFR software.


Thanks so much for this response. I'm going to buy one.


----------



## newtophoto

so general consensus seems to be the LG is better and its cheaper?


----------



## santiagodraco

newtophoto said:


> so general consensus seems to be the LG is better and its cheaper?


I would not say that at all. While I haven't seen the LG in person I have seen 4 total UST projectors, the Optoma P1, P2, the Samung LSP7T and now the 9T. The 9T is fantastic and none of the preceding projectors can hold a candle to it.

I couldn't be happier with my 9. Great colors, great blacks, sharp picture.


----------



## theos2

newtophoto said:


> so general consensus seems to be the LG is better and its cheaper?


For the people that have seen HU85LA and LS9PT side by side, on same UST screen, using same inputs and environment, the majority appears to favor the picture quality of the LG.

It appears that some have been able to tame the LS9PT picture quality to their liking via calibration or using different inputs. (User has stated that using an NVidia Shield adjusted for the over saturated reds seen with other media streamers). While other' s eyes are not as susceptible to RBE or CA that appears inherent in all LS9PTs.

CliffsNotes version of the past few pages of this thread.


----------



## TimA1

I was almost ready to ship my LSP9T back because of the red color, speckles, high brightness (unacceptable for a dark room). The second option I had for comparation was Optoma P2.
But I gave a second chance to Samsung. So... I shipped the Optoma back.. 
I very, very liked the Optoma P2. But the colors you can get out of Samsung is a deal-breaker. Plus the sound.

So, after 1 week of watching the Samsung I "don't see" speckles any more. Don't try to find them, just see the movie.

Red colors are unreal at the ends of the spectrum, only when you try to set up a projector in Rec2020 color space. If you put it in Rec 709 everything is fine. That happens because of all filmmakers just try to expand the basic 709 gamut during post-production, that is the reason why you see wrong colors. The movies are just oversaturated. That is not a problem of the projector. It's a problem of content. When they test movies on regular consumer screens they just don't see that wrong fake colors (outside the Rec709 color gamut). Old movies look completely fine even on Rec2020, because Netflix didn't touch it and posted as is, without applying "amazing colors Super UHD 4K HDR filters" on Rec 709 content. If the content don't have Rec2020 colors from the begging, it is almost not possible to add new colors manually. You need to color the content manually. But they don't have time to color millions movies to match them to Rec2020. They just do it cheap way - apply "amazing" filters.
Remember, Samsung is the first Rec 2020 device. So, the projector is calibrated well out of the box.

So if you don't like oversaturated colors in some content (mostly on Netflix, Prime, etc), just switch the projector to Rec 709.
But if content is "correct" like Blu-ray the colors are fantastic!

The second - the resolution. It's much much better compared to Optoma P2! I don't see any pixels on Samsung. On Optoma - yes - it's noticeable.

The last thing is the brightness. I have solved this problem  I bought a high-end solid glass Schneider neutral density ND2 rectangular filter and just put it on projector. It works 100%. Now I am going to cut-to-size the glass to be able to place it perpendicular to the light source (parallelly to the original glass, make a sandwich). I will take some photos later


----------



## santiagodraco

TimA1 said:


> I was almost ready to ship my LSP9T back because of the red color, speckles, high brightness (unacceptable for a dark room). The second option I had for comparation was Optoma P2.
> But I gave a second chance to Samsung. So... I shipped the Optoma back..
> I very, very liked the Optoma P2. But the colors you can get out of Samsung is a deal-breaker. Plus the sound.
> 
> So, after 1 week of watching the Samsung I "don't see" speckles any more. Don't try to find them, just see the movie.
> 
> Red colors are unreal at the ends of the spectrum, only when you try to set up a projector in Rec2020 color space. If you put it in Rec 709 everything is fine. That happens because of all filmmakers just try to expand the basic 709 gamut during post-production, that is the reason why you see wrong colors. The movies are just oversaturated. That is not a problem of the projector. It's a problem of content. When they test movies on regular consumer screens they just don't see that wrong fake colors (outside the Rec709 color gamut). Old movies look completely fine even on Rec2020, because Netflix didn't touch it and posted as is, without applying "amazing colors Super UHD 4K HDR filters" on Rec 709 content. If the content don't have Rec2020 colors from the begging, it is almost not possible to add new colors manually. You need to color the content manually. But they don't have time to color millions movies to match them to Rec2020. They just do it cheap way - apply "amazing" filters.
> Remember, Samsung is the first Rec 2020 device. So, the projector is calibrated well out of the box.
> 
> So if you don't like oversaturated colors in some content (mostly on Netflix, Prime, etc), just switch the projector to Rec 709.
> But if content is "correct" like Blu-ray the colors are fantastic!
> 
> The second - the resolution. It's much much better compared to Optoma P2! I don't see any pixels on Samsung. On Optoma - yes - it's noticeable.
> 
> The last thing is the brightness. I have solved this problem  I bought a high-end solid glass Schneider neutral density ND2 rectangular filter and just put it on projector. It works 100%. Now I am going to cut-to-size the glass to be able to place it perpendicular to the light source (parallelly to the original glass, make a sandwich). I will take some photos later


Interesting on the filter. Is this something you are trying to remove the "passive" light when there should be pure black, ie no picture?


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## TimA1

ND2 filter just remove 50% of the light. Without changing the colors. Let's say if your black level is 50, and lights are 1000, with the filter you will get 25 in black and 500 in white


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## Tophe_fr

Not afraid to lose a lot in HDR ?


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## TimA1

I also tried ND4 (passing only 1/4 of the light) and ND8 (passing only 1/8 of the light) filters. ND8 is too dark. ND4 is fine in very light movies. And don't forget about your CLR screen which works as a filter also, probable reducing the level of rejecting lights by some amount.


----------



## TimA1

Tophe_fr said:


> Not afraid to lose a lot in HDR ?


I hate HDR! It doesn't do anything just make light scenes even more lighter. They can not make the level of the black lower because it's physically not possible to do due your projectors' and TV's limitation. So they decided - if we can not do black "more blacker" why don't we increase whites 5 times!! And we can tell consumers that the projector has 20000000:1 contrast ratio. Sorry if we probably will burn your eyes. So, they remastering original movies.

Let's say the black level of normal movie is 50, and the maximum light is 1000. They can not just increase the overall luminance by 100% because you will get black 100 and whites 2000. And your black is not black anymore. Hmmm Let's do Photoshop. We keep black at 50, but expand lights to 2000, or even to 4000! WOW. But, that is FAKE colors. Because there is no any color information over 1000 exist. You will get some colors in whites which was stretched out in the original film. Only, if you take a picture on the new camera, which can capture the new Rec2020 gamut and wider dynamic range EV 14 or more (i don't know) - that is mean - yes - you will have more color and more lights to work with. But if the old original film has the dynamic range only EV8 - you can do nothing with it. I can stretch the colors or/and lights and have wrong colors, or fill the missing color/light space with fake information. But you need to remaster the movie manually. It takes too much time and money. If Netflix has millions of movies, it's not possible to do any quality job and remaster them all. So they do it the fastest and cheapest way - just apply fast "amazing" filters with overall mid settings on the movies.

They better don't touch old movies.

And... So they remastered a movie and you have now the black at 50, but lights at 4000! Your projector can do 4000 also. Wow. But. How are you going to watch a movie at 4000 in a dark room? I will blind very soon if you are watching a movie "the White snow"


----------



## Casey_Bryson

TimA1 said:


> I hate HDR! It doesn't do anything just make light scenes even more lighter. They can not make the level of the black lower because it's physically not possible to do due your projectors' and TV's limitation. So they decided - if we can not do black "more blacker" why don't we increase whites 5 times!! And we can tell consumers that the projector has 20000000:1 contrast ratio. Sorry if we probably will burn your eyes. So, they remastering original movies.
> 
> Let's say the black level of normal movie is 50, and the maximum light is 1000. They can not just increase the overall luminance by 100% because you will get black 100 and whites 2000. And your black is not black anymore. Hmmm Let's do Photoshop. We keep black at 50, but expand lights to 2000, or even to 4000! WOW. But, that is FAKE colors. Because there is no any color information over 1000 exist. You will get some colors in whites which was stretched out in the original film. Only, if you take a picture on the new camera, which can capture the new Rec2020 gamut and wider dynamic range EV 14 or more (i don't know) - that is mean - yes - you will have more color and more lights to work with. But if the old original film has the dynamic range only EV8 - you can do nothing with it. I can stretch the colors or/and lights and have wrong colors, or fill the missing color/light space with fake information. But you need to remaster the movie manually. It takes too much time and money. If Netflix has millions of movies, it's not possible to do any quality job and remaster them all. So they do it the fastest and cheapest way - just apply fast "amazing" filters with overall mid settings on the movies.
> 
> They better don't touch old movies.
> 
> And... So they remastered a movie and you have now the black at 50, but lights at 4000! Your projector can do 4000 also. Wow. But. How are you going to watch a movie at 4000 in a dark room? I will blind very soon if you are watching a movie "the White snow"


So much wrong with this post I'm not even going to attempt to address it all. Sorry you are not enjoying HDR. When mastered properly (and with dynamic tone mapping for output devices that cannot produce 1:1 aka our projectors) HDR is spectacular---see The Matrix, Beetle Juice etc... When done wrong it is less than desirable and often makes the content look worse even with very sophisticated DTM---see Solo, Superman, etc... It's a lot like 3D except it's a lot easier to get it right. Thankfully we have the option of watching in SDR or HDR and you can make the decision yourself even if you want to stay in static, flat, and less dynamic world. 😉


----------



## TimA1

Exactly! The key word is when and if mastered properly. But there are many titles on Netflix, etc which gives you wrong color on this Samsung when you watch them in Rec2020 and HDR.
It's hard to explain, it's better see that, But you can have a normal picture, where all colors are correct (no extra green, no extra red), but at the same time the picture has some spot areas where colors are going to crazy levels (absolutely red, green or blue). And if you find your old DVD ore even old Blu-ray wuth the same title and go to the same scene, you will find those spots which have crazy colors in Rec2020 gamut looks absolutely normal on your old DVD on the same projector.


----------



## Bill97Z

I don't have this problem with my TV or projector. Sounds like an issue with your projector.



TimA1 said:


> Exactly! The key word is when and if mastered properly. But there are many titles on Netflix, etc which gives you wrong color on this Samsung when you watch them in Rec2020 and HDR.
> It's hard to explain, it's better see that, But you can have a normal picture, where all colors are correct (no extra green, no extra red), but at the same time the picture has some spot areas where colors are going to crazy levels (absolutely red, green or blue). And if you find your old DVD ore even old Blu-ray wuth the same title and go to the same scene, you will find those spots which have crazy colors in Rec2020 gamut looks absolutely normal on your old DVD on the same projector.


----------



## 3sprit

bennutt said:


> It is weird that the laser used in The Samsung messes with iPhone pictures but the LG doesn’t affect them.
> 
> Unedited Samsung
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unedited LG
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It happens because the red laser floods the whole environment and objects and therefore also the lens of your iPhone ...


----------



## santiagodraco

TimA1 said:


> Exactly! The key word is when and if mastered properly. But there are many titles on Netflix, etc which gives you wrong color on this Samsung when you watch them in Rec2020 and HDR.
> It's hard to explain, it's better see that, But you can have a normal picture, where all colors are correct (no extra green, no extra red), but at the same time the picture has some spot areas where colors are going to crazy levels (absolutely red, green or blue). And if you find your old DVD ore even old Blu-ray wuth the same title and go to the same scene, you will find those spots which have crazy colors in Rec2020 gamut looks absolutely normal on your old DVD on the same projector.


I have yet to see any of this.

Without knowing what was intended you can't judge if it is the projector or the source content. I've played a TON of movies on my 9T and have yet to see anything other than a beautiful picture. HDR is amazing on the unit. 

It is not the unit it is the content.


----------



## Luminated67

bennutt said:


> It is weird that the laser used in The Samsung messes with iPhone pictures but the LG doesn’t affect them.
> 
> Unedited Samsung
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unedited LG
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Is there something off with the colours on the Samsung in this image?


----------



## ApeEx

Luminated67 said:


> Is there something off with the colours on the Samsung in this image?


Only in the picture. iPhones and Samsung phones can't properly take pictures of the LSP9T. Going by the forums, its seems some DSLR cameras can take accurate pictures of it.


----------



## Luminated67

ApeEx said:


> Only in the picture. iPhones and Samsung phones can't properly take pictures of the LSP9T. Going by the forums, its seems some DSLR cameras can take accurate pictures of it.


Why would they have problems with this particular projector compared to others?

I have took images from Valerian and the city of thousand planets and they look identical to what I see on the screen, what’s unique about this projector.... what am I missing?


----------



## ApeEx

Luminated67 said:


> Why would they have problems with this particular projector compared to others?
> 
> I have took images from Valerian and the city of thousand planets and they look identical to what I see on the screen.


This is the first RGB laser projector that I'm aware of, I assume smartphone camera sensors aren't capable of seeing it accurately. I wouldn't call it it a "problem", it just makes it harder to share pictures of your screen


----------



## ACE844

Some previous posters asked about the LSP7T, settings etc. I just ran across this review from @Gregory from @passionhomecinema here: Test Samsung LSP7T : l’avis de Grégory. – – Le Blog de PHC – (passionhomecinema.fr) I hope this helps.


----------



## bennutt

Luminated67 said:


> Is there something off with the colours on the Samsung in this image?


Nope! Just how the iPhone captures it. I'm sure there is some laser science that explains it, but I what I see on the wall with Samsung is closer to the LG pictures...


----------



## Run&Gun

ApeEx said:


> This is the first RGB laser projector that I'm aware of, I assume smartphone camera sensors aren't capable of seeing it accurately. I wouldn't call it it a "problem", it just makes it harder to share pictures of your screen


The LG HU85 is a three laser system. A Red laser, a Blue laser and a second Blue laser "phosphored" to Green.


----------



## santiagodraco

Run&Gun said:


> The LG HU85 is a three laser system. A Red laser, a Blue laser and a second Blue laser "phosphored" to Green.


He's correct. The LSP9T is the first RGB laser. The LG is RBB(G)


----------



## TimA1

Yesterday tested the LSP9T with a Spears&Munsil HDR Blu-Ray disk running on Sony UBP-X1100ES. Now I understand why Samsung do not allow consumers even touch brightness settings. Because the brightness is absolute right out of the box! And someone above wrote that we need to play with Contrast settings to adjust the brightness. He was absolutely right. Even when I watch a movie with a zero level of contrast, the picture is absolutely correct and nice, but just not too bright for a dark room. So we better touch nothing.


----------



## TimA1

Also tested many screen materials. Mostly all materials from Elite Screen, XY screen from China, VividStorm.

The best picture quality in a dark room - regular white material
Regular grey screen - not bad in a dark room, but white is definitely better.

Then ALR materials (not CLR) - Absolutely useless! Just don't do anything, only make everything worse.

Then CLR materials. 
1) Elite screen CLR2 (material itself feels like hard plastic)- the worst. It changes the colors, I don't know why. And doesn't do the job well like CLR screens have to do 
2) VividStrom CLR.. (soft plastic film - feels the same as regular white or grey materials) . But does the job really good.
3) Elite screen CLR (much harder, but not as hard as CLR2). Just the best. Even in the dark room the white color is white. But black color is deeper.
4) XY screen CLR. I believe they just use exactly the same screen material as Elite Screen CLR

So, today I am going to replace my white EliteScreen with XY's CLR screen. I was going to buy an EliteScreen CLR, but they are sold out for a month. That's why I bought it from XY.
The delivery took only 3 days from China! Wow.


----------



## TimA1

and back to Contrast setting. According to Spears&Munsil's manual, I could reach the correct contrast setting at Contrast level=0.


----------



## d_bohne

TimA1 said:


> Also tested many screen materials. Mostly all materials from Elite Screen, XY screen from China, VividStorm.
> 
> The best picture quality in a dark room - regular white material
> Regular grey screen - not bad in a dark room, but white is definitely better.
> 
> Then ALR materials (not CLR) - Absolutely useless! Just don't do anything, only make everything worse.
> 
> Then CLR materials.
> 1) Elite screen CLR2 (material itself feels like hard plastic)- the worst. It changes the colors, I don't know why. And doesn't do the job well like CLR screens have to do
> 2) VividStrom CLR.. (soft plastic film - feels the same as regular white or grey materials) . But does the job really good.
> 3) Elite screen CLR (much harder, but not as hard as CLR2). Just the best. Even in the dark room the white color is white. But black color is deeper.
> 4) XY screen CLR. I believe they just use exactly the same screen material as Elite Screen CLR
> 
> So, today I am going to replace my white EliteScreen with XY's CLR screen. I was going to buy an EliteScreen CLR, but they are sold out for a month. That's why I bought it from XY.
> The delivery took only 3 days from China! Wow.



Is this the XY sceeen you are referring to?







Source XY Screen 150 inch UST ALR Screen Ultra Thin Frame Projection Screen for Ultra Short Throw Projector 50 inch on m.alibaba.com


XY Screen 150 inch UST ALR Screen Ultra Thin Frame Projection Screen for Ultra Short Throw Projector 50 inch, You can get more details about from mobile site on m.alibaba.com




m.alibaba.com


----------



## TimA1

No. You need PET Crystal CLR screen. 120”. 150” material just not exist. I will post a link in couple hours.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

santiagodraco said:


> He's correct. The LSP9T is the first RGB laser. The LG is RBB(G)


Not the first..not even close.


----------



## TimA1

d_bohne said:


> Is this the XY sceeen you are referring to?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Source XY Screen 150 inch UST ALR Screen Ultra Thin Frame Projection Screen for Ultra Short Throw Projector 50 inch on m.alibaba.com
> 
> 
> XY Screen 150 inch UST ALR Screen Ultra Thin Frame Projection Screen for Ultra Short Throw Projector 50 inch, You can get more details about from mobile site on m.alibaba.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> m.alibaba.com


I just sent a request to the factory and they replied with a quote from e-mail [email protected] . I paid them through PayPal invoice. They shipped the same day on Monday and yesterday it was delivered by UPS to FL.
So you can just write to them


Here is a spec:
With special sawtooth structure, PET Crystal avoids 93% ambient light. Unlike traditional projection screen, it provides a huge, absolutely stunning and very "TV-like" image with laser UST projector, even in a well-lit room. Customized size available(80-120"), perfectly fit your place.

Here are some details:
Model name: ZHK120B-PET Crystal
Gain: 0.8
Viewing angle: 160 degree
Color: dark grey
Frame material: aluminum
Frame width: 12mm
Diagonal: 80-120 inch
Applicable projector: Ultra Short Throw projector
Payment method: Credit Card, Bank Transfer, Paypal, Western Union, WeChat Pay, Alipay...

100 inch Viewing Size is 2213*1245mm, Total Size is 2237*1269mm, Price is 750USD
120 inch Viewing Size is 2656*1494mm, Total Size is 2680*1518mm, Price is 1150USD

Frame, screen, accessories are included. Shipping fee is included.


----------



## Bill97Z

I tested a lot of these too and came to the same conclusion. CLR2 is not very good, and CLR has very nice performance. I ended up getting Grandview Dynamique which was very similar to the Elite CLR material. A close second was Akia CLR4 material which is very cost effective screen and sold on amazon.



TimA1 said:


> Also tested many screen materials. Mostly all materials from Elite Screen, XY screen from China, VividStorm.
> 
> The best picture quality in a dark room - regular white material
> Regular grey screen - not bad in a dark room, but white is definitely better.
> 
> Then ALR materials (not CLR) - Absolutely useless! Just don't do anything, only make everything worse.
> 
> Then CLR materials.
> 1) Elite screen CLR2 (material itself feels like hard plastic)- the worst. It changes the colors, I don't know why. And doesn't do the job well like CLR screens have to do
> 2) VividStrom CLR.. (soft plastic film - feels the same as regular white or grey materials) . But does the job really good.
> 3) Elite screen CLR (much harder, but not as hard as CLR2). Just the best. Even in the dark room the white color is white. But black color is deeper.
> 4) XY screen CLR. I believe they just use exactly the same screen material as Elite Screen CLR
> 
> So, today I am going to replace my white EliteScreen with XY's CLR screen. I was going to buy an EliteScreen CLR, but they are sold out for a month. That's why I bought it from XY.
> The delivery took only 3 days from China! Wow.


----------



## santiagodraco

TimA1 said:


> Also tested many screen materials. Mostly all materials from Elite Screen, XY screen from China, VividStorm.
> 
> The best picture quality in a dark room - regular white material
> Regular grey screen - not bad in a dark room, but white is definitely better.
> 
> Then ALR materials (not CLR) - Absolutely useless! Just don't do anything, only make everything worse.
> 
> Then CLR materials.
> 1) Elite screen CLR2 (material itself feels like hard plastic)- the worst. It changes the colors, I don't know why. And doesn't do the job well like CLR screens have to do
> 2) VividStrom CLR.. (soft plastic film - feels the same as regular white or grey materials) . But does the job really good.
> 3) Elite screen CLR (much harder, but not as hard as CLR2). Just the best. Even in the dark room the white color is white. But black color is deeper.
> 4) XY screen CLR. I believe they just use exactly the same screen material as Elite Screen CLR
> 
> So, today I am going to replace my white EliteScreen with XY's CLR screen. I was going to buy an EliteScreen CLR, but they are sold out for a month. That's why I bought it from XY.
> The delivery took only 3 days from China! Wow.


I am using the Aeon CLR (not the 2, not the 3) and it's fantastic. Elite clarified that the CLR is the "better" of the three models in spite of the numbers making it confusing.


----------



## TimA1

But that’s what I said. Regular CLR is the best. Not CLR2. What numbers are you talking about?


----------



## santiagodraco

TimA1 said:


> But that’s what I said. Regular CLR is the best. Not CLR2. What numbers are you talking about?


Nm the first part of my post. I had misread your post and didn't edit it properly. I originally thought you said the CLR was "bad" 

The numbers are the CLR, CLR2 and CLR3. It makes it sound like the 2 is "version" 2 and the 3 "version 3. Normally that would mean better... but not in this case.


----------



## santiagodraco

santiagodraco said:


> Nm the first part of my post. I had misread your post and didn't edit it properly. I originally thought you said the CLR was "bad"





Casey_Bryson said:


> Not the first..not even close.


UST to clarify.


----------



## d_bohne

I want to go with a 140” screen. Does anyone sell the Aeon CLR in that size? If not, what screen would you recommend in that size?

thank you!!


----------



## Casey_Bryson

santiagodraco said:


> UST to clarify.


Still not right need a hint?


----------



## santiagodraco

Casey_Bryson said:


> Still not right


Do tell.


----------



## Casey_Bryson

santiagodraco said:


> Do tell.


I believe the first UST was the Chiq C8UT. I think I remember first hearing about it last year.

Here's a review from June of this year.



Test CHiQ C8UT : l’avis de Grégory – – Le Blog de PHC –



I'm not sure about first RGB laser overall but Barco had one in 2014









Barco DP4K-60L: the world’s first integrated RGB Laser Cinema projector to achieve DCI CTP-1.2 level compliance | Barco


We are pleased to announce that Barco’s new DP4K-60L is the world’s first integrated RGB laser-illuminated projector that fully complies with the new DCI testing level (CTP-1.2) – confirmed by tests a




www.barco.com


----------



## TimA1

d_bohne said:


> I want to go with a 140” screen. Does anyone sell the Aeon CLR in that size? If not, what screen would you recommend in that size?
> 
> thank you!!


I believe all manufactures get the PET Chrystal CLR material from the same manufacture. Because the maximum possible size of the material roll is right for 120" screen in 16:9 format. Probable they can make larger , but in 2.35:1 size


----------



## ACE844

Has anyone tried one of the SAM T-prism screens linked earlier ( Fixed Frame Screen- ultra thin,Home theater projection screen , I found a motorized review from Joelster4k here: 



 and a non-English 7mm fixed screen review in Portuguese here: 



 you can use the auto-translate CC feature for English) yet? I'm waiting for their screen sample to arrive and I'm curious what others have thought of its performance?


----------



## TimA1

santiagodraco said:


> Quick update on Samsung support and my focus issue. Samsung reached out to me directly (not sure yet what triggered it, review/email/etc) but I received a call from an engineer who works directly with these projectors and we've been actively engaged in testing and working on the issue. Note that the focus issue is not a deal breaker for me, nor is it "severe" but it's something I want to address and understand. So after finally getting to the right person it's been a great experience so far.
> 
> Just a quick update for those that might be curious.


So what was the problem? Have you fixed it and how?


----------



## santiagodraco

TimA1 said:


> So what was the problem? Have you fixed it and how?


Yeah I fixed it by returning the LSP7T and getting the LSP9T. 

Super happy with the projector.


----------



## sudhanese2003

TimA1 said:


> I believe all manufactures get the PET Chrystal CLR material from the same manufacture. Because the maximum possible size of the material roll is right for 120" screen in 16:9 format. Probable they can make larger , but in 2.35:1 size


Good comparison and i came to the same conclusion. There is a marked difference between pet crystal and grid but the grid can be bought in bigger size (150 inches) and cheap ($750). However the black levels and color reproduction is much better in the crystal.


----------



## mcollin6

d_bohne said:


> I want to go with a 140” screen. Does anyone sell the Aeon CLR in that size? If not, what screen would you recommend in that size?
> 
> thank you!!


I have been talking with this company from China. They do UST ALR up to 150”. The material specs look fantastic, and some of the videos show the capability. If you want to go more than 120”, this seems like a good way.






Tab Tension Screen - Jampo，Tab Tension Electric projection screen


深圳投影幕布厂家，高清投影幕品牌，拉线电动投影幕，KTV投影幕，教学投影幕




www.samsav.com


----------



## mcollin6

ACE844 said:


> Has anyone tried one of the SAM T-prism screens linked earlier ( Fixed Frame Screen- ultra thin,Home theater projection screen , I found a motorized review from Joelster4k here:
> 
> 
> 
> and a non-English 7mm fixed screen review in Portuguese here:
> 
> 
> 
> you can use the auto-translate CC feature for English) yet? I'm waiting for their screen sample to arrive and I'm curious what others have thought of its performance?


I have been looking at them too. The screen material looks like it uses a German engineered nanotechnology, and is lenticular unlike the PET grid. Has the same specs as the UST3 and UST4 material from Elite, but they can go much larger.


----------



## mcollin6

mcollin6 said:


> I have been looking at them too. The screen material looks like it uses a German engineered nanotechnology, and is lenticular unlike the PET grid. Has the same specs as the UST3 and UST4 material from Elite, but they can go much larger.


Here’s a video comparison.


----------



## mcollin6

mcollin6 said:


> I have been talking with this company from China. They do UST ALR up to 150”. The material specs look fantastic, and some of the videos show the capability. If you want to go more than 120”, this seems like a good way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tab Tension Screen - Jampo，Tab Tension Electric projection screen
> 
> 
> 深圳投影幕布厂家，高清投影幕品牌，拉线电动投影幕，KTV投影幕，教学投影幕
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.samsav.com


FYI - I asked about the 135” T-PRISM material screen in a tab tensioned drop down (Jampo) and they said that due to the size it would take 30 days and shipping was around $680. This put the total price of the screen at just under $2,000.

Look at the Product Description on this page. It has all the details. 





Screenpro 135 Inch Electric Projector Screen Motorized Alr Projection Screen For Ust Laser Projector Optoma P1 Home Theater - Buy Motorized Projection Screen,Alr Projector Screen,Motorized Projector Screen Product on Alibaba.com


Screenpro 135 Inch Electric Projector Screen Motorized Alr Projection Screen For Ust Laser Projector Optoma P1 Home Theater - Buy Motorized Projection Screen,Alr Projector Screen,Motorized Projector Screen Product on Alibaba.com



www.alibaba.com


----------



## JereyWolf

Any owners know how the Auto color space setting functions?
I've mostly been using native, but flipping back and forth between Native and Auto shows some significant differences. The blues look extreme in native. These colors in the attachments are not accurate to what I see in person, but I think they work for comparison between the two settings (I haven't been able to get an accurate photo with any of the cameras I've tried). The more saturated one is native....and I'm wondering if the Auto setting is applying a reduced color gamut. I'm wondering...are these blues the way it's supposed to look and I've just never had a display that would show it? I'd like to hear other users thoughts on these settings.

I left the color space menu up just so it's obvious which setting I'm on, even though it's distracting.

Source is Sony UBP X800 to Denon X3300w. Blade Runner 2049 4k HDR disc and Avatar Blu-ray.


----------



## MDesigns

JereyWolf said:


> Any owners know how the Auto color space setting functions?
> I've mostly been using native, but flipping back and forth between Native and Auto shows some significant differences. The blues look extreme in native. These colors in the attachments are not accurate to what I see in person, but I think they work for comparison between the two settings (I haven't been able to get an accurate photo with any of the cameras I've tried). The more saturated one is native....and I'm wondering if the Auto setting is applying a reduced color gamut. I'm wondering...are these blues the way it's supposed to look and I've just never had a display that would show it? I'd like to hear other users thoughts on these settings.
> 
> I left the color space menu up just so it's obvious which setting I'm on, even though it's distracting.
> 
> View attachment 3074029
> 
> View attachment 3074030
> 
> View attachment 3074031
> 
> View attachment 3074032
> 
> View attachment 3074035
> 
> View attachment 3074034


What is your source and does it have an info button to show what its sending?

Native is the widest gamut, so if your source sends rec709(like standard bluray) then its not correct choice, since it will stretch the gamut. If watching hdr content it usually comes with bt2020 gamut which is close to the native limits, so it should look better but can still track incorrectly inside the limits. JVC's have a BT2020 color profile in addition to the native gamut choice, since native doesn't necessarily or probably track correctly. The naming in Samsung is little odd since there is no bt2020 or rec709. I would still assume that Auto chooses the correct one.

Native is usually only correct when using an external video processor and then calibrating with a 3D LUT.


----------



## JereyWolf

MDesigns said:


> What is your source and does it have an info button to show what its sending?


I updated the original post with source info.
There is an info button on the projector but it only shows resolution and whether HDR is active.

I'm surprised that Native would not choose the color space of the incoming source...but then what would auto do? And you can actually select the color space in the custom color space option.


----------



## d_bohne

mcollin6 said:


> I have been talking with this company from China. They do UST ALR up to 150”. The material specs look fantastic, and some of the videos show the capability. If you want to go more than 120”, this seems like a good way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tab Tension Screen - Jampo，Tab Tension Electric projection screen
> 
> 
> 深圳投影幕布厂家，高清投影幕品牌，拉线电动投影幕，KTV投影幕，教学投影幕
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.samsav.com





mcollin6 said:


> I have been looking at them too. The screen material looks like it uses a German engineered nanotechnology, and is lenticular unlike the PET grid. Has the same specs as the UST3 and UST4 material from Elite, but they can go much larger.


thank you for the responses! 
between the T-prism Jampo and the SY Laser you linked to in your two posts, which would be better? Both go up to 140” easily it looks like. Either one work better in a complete light controlled room? Either one work better with a traditional projector vs the LSP9T?


----------



## MDesigns

JereyWolf said:


> I updated the original post with source info.
> There is an info button on the projector but it only shows resolution and whether HDR is active.
> 
> I'm surprised that Native would not choose the color space of the incoming source...but then what would auto do? And you can actually select the color space in the custom color space option.


Native usually means projectors native full gamut with no color correction to match any standard profile, so it doesn't necessarily look right. It doesn't mean native source gamut. Auto does that.

Your player should have an info button that shows more info from the signal. At least the panasonics do.

You could check from the custom color space if the rec709 matches auto for Avatar and bt2020 matches auto for Blade runner. That should confirm that Auto works.


----------



## TimA1

JereyWolf said:


> Any owners know how the Auto color space setting functions?
> I've mostly been using native, but flipping back and forth between Native and Auto shows some significant differences. The blues look extreme in native. These colors in the attachments are not accurate to what I see in person, but I think they work for comparison between the two settings (I haven't been able to get an accurate photo with any of the cameras I've tried). The more saturated one is native....and I'm wondering if the Auto setting is applying a reduced color gamut. I'm wondering...are these blues the way it's supposed to look and I've just never had a display that would show it? I'd like to hear other users thoughts on these settings.
> 
> I left the color space menu up just so it's obvious which setting I'm on, even though it's distracting.
> 
> Source is Sony UBP X800 to Denon X3300w. Blade Runner 2049 4k HDR disc and Avatar Blu-ray.
> 
> View attachment 3074029
> 
> View attachment 3074030
> 
> View attachment 3074031
> 
> View attachment 3074032
> 
> View attachment 3074035
> 
> View attachment 3074034


Also I found a error in settings. If you switch to Custom color gamut and pick up a 2020 gamut here, then then go back to Auto, the projector will keep colors as 2020 (it will be dimmed, but active) even if you are watching a 709 content. So, you should always set the color space 709 in custom. even if it dimmed, it affects the picture


----------



## JereyWolf

Does anyone know whether additional contrast or black enhancement is being applied in the Dynamic mode?
Even with the contrast enhancer off and the contrast slider set back to 25, Dynamic mode seems to display a darker black than the other presets even when those settings are ramped up.


----------



## 3sprit

Luminated67 said:


> Why would they have problems with this particular projector compared to others?


[…]Sollte man in seinem Wohnzimmer bunte Möbel, Bilder oder Teppiche sein Eigen nennen, erscheinen diese durch das spezielle Laserspektrum ungemein farbintensiv: Orangefarbene Teppiche werden auf einmal Tiefrot, oder die Top-Text Knöpfe der Fernbedienung erscheinen auf einmal in Signalfarben. Auch die Bilder an der Wand erscheinen plötzlich wie Pop-Art:[…]








Test: Samsung LSP9T The Premiere Laser TV | Cine4home.de


Der welterste echte RGB Laser Projektor im ersten Cine4Home Test. Hält das Gerät, was der Hersteller für den Preis verspricht? Wir geben eine erste Antwort.



cine4home.de




The red laser "illuminates" all objects, including the optics of the iPhone


----------



## ApeEx

Last night I updated my projector to v1400 with a USB using the firmware from Samsung's website. The only changes I noticed was a welcome jingle, which I immediately turned off. (Also a "screen fit" in the quick settings, but maybe I just didn't notice it before?) 
Anyway, I turned on the projector today and I got a notification "update available", so I did it, now it's running v1402!
Don't see any difference, but good to know they've sorted the OTA updates, and that they're actually updating it.


----------



## bennutt

ApeEx said:


> Last night I updated my projector to v1400 with a USB using the firmware from Samsung's website. The only changes I noticed was a welcome jingle, which I immediately turned off. (Also a "screen fit" in the quick settings, but maybe I just didn't notice it before?)
> Anyway, I turned on the projector today and I got a notification "update available", so I did it, now it's running v1402!
> Don't see any difference, but good to know they've sorted the OTA updates, and that they're actually updating it.
> View attachment 3075365


If it fixes the CA issue (and it doesn’t from that picture) I’ll consider jumping back 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## newtophoto

Can anyone share pics of their TV stands they are using for their projector? Or provide links to the one they are using?

Thank you


----------



## Vzx

Long time lurker- first time poster. Bought the lsp9t based on reviews here and other places. Have it paired with grandview dynamique 120 screen and I agree with what most people have posted here.

The RBE is worse especially for people who wear glasses. My family doesn’t even notice it while I am slowly getting used to it. The red sparkle is also something that I got used to after 1.5 months and don’t notice anymore. The CA is definitely bad but maybe getting better with time (perhaps it’s my brain getting used to it). The colors are amazing. Can’t go back to other cheaper UST projectors now (may still consider LG HU85la - my 100 day return window is until feb 15)

The problem I have is with the white ghosting/shadow/light spray beyond the screen. I used the built in positioning screen to align all the corners with manual positioning of the projector. No image fit was used. I still get a white shadow beyond my screen border (see image - light overflow below, above and slightly to the sides)

does anyone have similar problem? Any solutions?


----------



## ApeEx

Vzx said:


> Long time lurker- first time poster. Bought the lsp9t based on reviews here and other places. Have it paired with grandview dynamique 120 screen and I agree with what most people have posted here.
> 
> The RBE is worse especially for people who wear glasses. My family doesn’t even notice it while I am slowly getting used to it. The red sparkle is also something that I got used to after 1.5 months and don’t notice anymore. The CA is definitely bad but maybe getting better with time (perhaps it’s my brain getting used to it). The colors are amazing. Can’t go back to other cheaper UST projectors now (may still consider LG HU85la - my 100 day return window is until feb 15)
> 
> The problem I have is with the white ghosting/shadow/light spray beyond the screen. I used the built in positioning screen to align all the corners with manual positioning of the projector. No image fit was used. I still get a white shadow beyond my screen border (see image - light overflow below, above and slightly to the sides)
> 
> does anyone have similar problem? Any solutions?
> View attachment 3075436


Can't say for sure, but it's possible you need to change the projector's display aspect ratio to match whatever your watching. I believe it's in the settings.


----------



## bennutt

newtophoto said:


> Can anyone share pics of their TV stands they are using for their projector? Or provide links to the one they are using?
> 
> Thank you


IKEA has a Lack shelf that you can chop down to size if required. If the shelf is only $50-$100 it’s easier to cut up 










And while I’m here, I’ll address the light bleed issue (the LG has it too). Uneven surface above the screen helps make it less apparent. The other light reflection less talked about here involves bright scenes that shine off the white surface of the projector itself and light up the room. Make it black Samsung. You too LG.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Genzi

I've been using the LSP9t since November. The software of the device is up to date. I have the feeling that with the last update of the RBE it got worse again. in the meantime, I haven't had it at all. A big problem, however, is that there are light areas in the lower center of the picture. These occur when a light image content has to be displayed on the left or right below. You can test this very well with a local dimming video on YouTube.


----------



## goondo

Vzx said:


> Long time lurker- first time poster. Bought the lsp9t based on reviews here and other places. Have it paired with grandview dynamique 120 screen and I agree with what most people have posted here.
> 
> The RBE is worse especially for people who wear glasses. My family doesn’t even notice it while I am slowly getting used to it. The red sparkle is also something that I got used to after 1.5 months and don’t notice anymore. The CA is definitely bad but maybe getting better with time (perhaps it’s my brain getting used to it). The colors are amazing. Can’t go back to other cheaper UST projectors now (may still consider LG HU85la - my 100 day return window is until feb 15)
> 
> The problem I have is with the white ghosting/shadow/light spray beyond the screen. I used the built in positioning screen to align all the corners with manual positioning of the projector. No image fit was used. I still get a white shadow beyond my screen border (see image - light overflow below, above and slightly to the sides)
> 
> does anyone have similar problem? Any solutions?
> View attachment 3075436


Maybe put black tape across the top edge of the screen frame. It needs to thick enough to block the excess light from going onto the wall.


----------



## bjanssen

I don't have the Samsung but have that same light band with the Hisense 100L5F. It annoyed me so much that I bought a bias light strip to put around the whole screen. The light band is almost invisible now and it had the added bonus of deepening the perceived blacks. I'm happy with the result. I'll add a picture shortly.


----------



## mcollin6

d_bohne said:


> thank you for the responses!
> between the T-prism Jampo and the SY Laser you linked to in your two posts, which would be better? Both go up to 140” easily it looks like. Either one work better in a complete light controlled room? Either one work better with a traditional projector vs the LSP9T?


I can't be sure as I haven't seen either in person, but I really like the T-Prism material based on what I've seen online (videos and specs) so I'm leaning that way. The website can be confusing, so it might be best to email the contact. They are very responsive to questions.


----------



## mcollin6

Vzx said:


> Long time lurker- first time poster. Bought the lsp9t based on reviews here and other places. Have it paired with grandview dynamique 120 screen and I agree with what most people have posted here.
> 
> The RBE is worse especially for people who wear glasses. My family doesn’t even notice it while I am slowly getting used to it. The red sparkle is also something that I got used to after 1.5 months and don’t notice anymore. The CA is definitely bad but maybe getting better with time (perhaps it’s my brain getting used to it). The colors are amazing. Can’t go back to other cheaper UST projectors now (may still consider LG HU85la - my 100 day return window is until feb 15)
> 
> The problem I have is with the white ghosting/shadow/light spray beyond the screen. I used the built in positioning screen to align all the corners with manual positioning of the projector. No image fit was used. I still get a white shadow beyond my screen border (see image - light overflow below, above and slightly to the sides)
> 
> does anyone have similar problem? Any solutions?
> View attachment 3075436


Honestly, that looks like you used some kind of keystone correction to fit the image to the screen. Are you sure that there is no keystone correction being used?


----------



## bjanssen

@Vzx See attached photo. This is not the Samsung (it's the Hisense 100L5F), but it has the same light spill issue. Adding the bias light dramatically reduces the light spill to the point that I don't even notice it. If you look it is there (see the red circles), but it doesn't stand out like it used to. Added bonus: the bias light helped make blacks seem deeper as well which was nice.


----------



## santiagodraco

Vzx said:


> Long time lurker- first time poster. Bought the lsp9t based on reviews here and other places. Have it paired with grandview dynamique 120 screen and I agree with what most people have posted here.
> 
> The RBE is worse especially for people who wear glasses. My family doesn’t even notice it while I am slowly getting used to it. The red sparkle is also something that I got used to after 1.5 months and don’t notice anymore. The CA is definitely bad but maybe getting better with time (perhaps it’s my brain getting used to it). The colors are amazing. Can’t go back to other cheaper UST projectors now (may still consider LG HU85la - my 100 day return window is until feb 15)
> 
> The problem I have is with the white ghosting/shadow/light spray beyond the screen. I used the built in positioning screen to align all the corners with manual positioning of the projector. No image fit was used. I still get a white shadow beyond my screen border (see image - light overflow below, above and slightly to the sides)
> 
> does anyone have similar problem? Any solutions?
> View attachment 3075436


That light is because the projector isn't perfectly aligned. When you use the adjustments that doesn't change where the base light goes it just changes the video rendering. The only way to remove that is to try to better align the screen and projector. In your case you need to either raise the screen or lower the projector a bit. You also need to move the projector in slightly.


----------



## R8tedm3

santiagodraco said:


> That light is because the projector isn't perfectly aligned. When you use the adjustments that doesn't change where the base light goes it just changes the video rendering. The only way to remove that is to try to better align the screen and projector. In your case you need to either raise the screen or lower the projector a bit. You also need to move the projector in slightly.


I can confirm this as well. Had the same problem myself. In my case I solved it by moving the projector forward a little bit. It doesn't need to be pushed forward much, but just a tiny bit makes all the difference. Now it's wonderful. I told my gf never to dust around that area, or even come close to it ha! She looked at me like "what is wrong with this guy lol?!"


----------



## Vzx

Thank you for all the replies. I have not used keystone correction. I’ll try to adjust the projector position again and retake some pics. It is a pity that such an expensive projector still has issues with CA but our options are limited right now until cheaper 3 laser true 4K projectors become available over the next 3-4 years. YOLO. Life’s too short to nitpick too much.

I’m happy overall with the projector.


----------



## d_bohne

mcollin6 said:


> I can't be sure as I haven't seen either in person, but I really like the T-Prism material based on what I've seen online (videos and specs) so I'm leaning that way. The website can be confusing, so it might be best to email the contact. They are very responsive to questions.


Thanks!!


----------



## Jean Hur

Vzx said:


> 오랜 시간 숨어있는 - 처음으로 포스터. 여기 및 기타 장소에 대한 리뷰를 기반으로 lsp9t를 구입했습니다. 그랜드 뷰 다이너마이크 120 화면과 짝을 이뤄 대부분의 사람들이 여기에 게시한 내용에 동의합니다.
> 
> RBE는 특히 안경을 착용하는 사람들에게 더 나쁩니다. 우리 가족은 내가 천천히 익숙해지는 동안 그것을 알아차리지 못합니다. 빨간 반짝임은 또한 내가 1.5 개월 후에 익숙해졌고 더 이상 눈치 채지 못하는 것입니다. CA는 확실히 나쁜 하지만 어쩌면 시간이 지남에 따라 점점 (아마도 그것은 그것에 익숙해 내 두뇌). 색상은 놀랍습니다. 지금 다른 저렴 한 UST 프로젝터로 돌아갈 수 없습니다 (여전히 LG HU85la를 고려할 수 있습니다 - 내 100 일 반환 기간은 2 월 15 일까지)
> 
> 내가 가지고있는 문제는 화면 너머의 흰색 고스팅 / 그림자 / 조명 스프레이입니다. 내장된 포지셔닝 스크린을 사용하여 모든 모서리를 프로젝터의 수동 포지셔닝과 정렬했습니다. 이미지 맞춤이 사용되지 않았습니다. 나는 여전히 화면 테두리 를 넘어 흰색 그림자를 얻을 (이미지 참조 - 아래, 위와 약간 측면에 빛이 오버플로)
> 
> 사람이 비슷한 문제가 있습니까? 어떤 솔루션?
> View attachment 3075436
> 
> [/견적]





Vzx said:


> Long time lurker- first time poster. Bought the lsp9t based on reviews here and other places. Have it paired with grandview dynamique 120 screen and I agree with what most people have posted here.
> 
> The RBE is worse especially for people who wear glasses. My family doesn’t even notice it while I am slowly getting used to it. The red sparkle is also something that I got used to after 1.5 months and don’t notice anymore. The CA is definitely bad but maybe getting better with time (perhaps it’s my brain getting used to it). The colors are amazing. Can’t go back to other cheaper UST projectors now (may still consider LG HU85la - my 100 day return window is until feb 15)
> 
> The problem I have is with the white ghosting/shadow/light spray beyond the screen. I used the built in positioning screen to align all the corners with manual positioning of the projector. No image fit was used. I still get a white shadow beyond my screen border (see image - light overflow below, above and slightly to the sides)
> 
> does anyone have similar problem? Any solutions?
> View attachment 3075436


First, if you reset the Keystone adjustment, you can see that the picture is out of frame.
Second, please rotate two Foots on your projector floor to adjust the angle so that the screen is rectangular, not rhombus.
Push the third projector slightly into the wall and set the size of the picture slightly larger than the frame. Finally, you can have a perfect picture if you select and fine-tune the included in the Screen installation.


----------



## newtophoto

Jean Hur said:


> First, if you reset the Keystone adjustment, you can see that the picture is out of frame.
> Second, please rotate two Foots on your projector floor to adjust the angle so that the screen is rectangular, not rhombus.
> Push the third projector slightly into the wall and set the size of the picture slightly larger than the frame. Finally, you can have a perfect picture if you select and fine-tune the included in the Screen installation.


What is keystone adjustment?


----------



## newtophoto

Does everyone have CA on their unit or only some people's unit affected by this? Is it really that big of an issue?


----------



## bennutt

newtophoto said:


> Does everyone have CA on their unit or only some people's unit affected by this? Is it really that big of an issue?


I have only seen one lucky person post pictures without it so far. I have personally tried 2 projectors and you can zoom in on any number of pictures in this thread to judge for yourself.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JereyWolf

newtophoto said:


> Does everyone have CA on their unit or only some people's unit affected by this? Is it really that big of an issue?


It's visible on mine, but I can only see it if I get close to the screen.


----------



## Jue Liang

Just ordered a Lsp9t. It’s surprising that I still find no objective measurements in this thread. I should be able to post some measurements in a couple of weeks. I will also compare it to my other projectors, (Lcos, long throw, lamp based, completely different animals though). So the lsp9t won’t be a replacement of my current projector in my bat cave unless it’s super convincing, which I seriously doubt based on my impression on my previous laser DLP. It will be more like a bedroom projector to watch YouTubes or play casual games.


----------



## santiagodraco

Vzx said:


> Thank you for all the replies. I have not used keystone correction. I’ll try to adjust the projector position again and retake some pics. It is a pity that such an expensive projector still has issues with CA but our options are limited right now until cheaper 3 laser true 4K projectors become available over the next 3-4 years. YOLO. Life’s too short to nitpick too much.
> 
> I’m happy overall with the projector.


I am having no issues with CA. But


newtophoto said:


> Does everyone have CA on their unit or only some people's unit affected by this? Is it really that big of an issue?


I do not have CA. If I do it is completely unnoticeable from a foot or more away from the screen.


----------



## newtophoto

Jue Liang said:


> Just ordered a Lsp9t. It’s surprising that I still find no objective measurements in this thread. I should be able to post some measurements in a couple of weeks. I will also compare it to my other projectors, (Lcos, long throw, lamp based, completely different animals though). So the lsp9t won’t be a replacement of my current projector in my bat cave unless it’s super convincing, which I seriously doubt based on my impression on my previous laser DLP. It will be more like a bedroom projector to watch YouTubes or play casual games.


May i ask what screen you will be using it on?


----------



## Jue Liang

newtophoto said:


> May i ask what screen you will be using it on?


My measurements will be taken on a reference white screen ST130G4 in a bat cave fully covered with triple black velvet, so it’s not a typical environment for UST pjs. But it’s to show the absolute performance of this projector when there is no other light or reflected light.
After that, the screen choice will depend on where I want to use it, my bat cave or my bedroom or my son’s “toy room”, I have not decided yet.


----------



## Vzx

So I went home last night and checked the projector settings again. Reset the picture completely. Aspect ratio is default at 16:9 which is what my screen is at.

I moved the projector around so that all the boundaries of the focus frame/screen adjustment frame are within the screen borders. I still see a significant amount of light bleed - see image below/attached where you can see that the top portion of the image is at least 1 inch below my screen and I can still see a significant amount of light bleed over it - there is bleed on the side too. I’ll keep playing with the position today


----------



## MarkM78

Vzx said:


> So I went home last night and checked the projector settings again. Reset the picture completely. Aspect ratio is default at 16:9 which is what my screen is at.


 This is probably not the case but is the screen new or could there be some flex to it? Have you used that screen with other USTs and not noticed this before? Just trying to rule out if the screen could be causing it. Like I said probably not the case but worth checking.


----------



## Mike Garrett

bennutt said:


> I have only seen one lucky person post pictures without it so far. I have personally tried 2 projectors and you can zoom in on any number of pictures in this thread to judge for yourself.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


From what Cine4home posted in their review, I think all of them have what appears to look like CA.

"Consistent sharpness is quickly achieved over the entire image, with one restriction: the very narrow-band spectral properties of the separate red, blue and green laser light sources show different optical refractions, which is why bright objects are surrounded by a light blue border."

But note that from viewing distance, it does not show up, so it depends where the picture was taken, not luck of the draw.


----------



## R8tedm3

Vzx said:


> So I went home last night and checked the projector settings again. Reset the picture completely. Aspect ratio is default at 16:9 which is what my screen is at.
> 
> I moved the projector around so that all the boundaries of the focus frame/screen adjustment frame are within the screen borders. I still see a significant amount of light bleed - see image below/attached where you can see that the top portion of the image is at least 1 inch below my screen and I can still see a significant amount of light bleed over it - there is bleed on the side too. I’ll keep playing with the position today
> View attachment 3075806


It's the height of the cabinet/stand the projector is placed, and the width from the wall that matters the most when it comes to that. You can move it back and forth all day, but till the height/width is perfect some bleeding will remain unfortunately. 

Check out the online manual, it shows a chart with exact measurements for the size of the sceen you have. It has a chart for 100-130" screen btw. 

Dial that in, and your issues will go away.


----------



## sudhanese2003

Vzx said:


> So I went home last night and checked the projector settings again. Reset the picture completely. Aspect ratio is default at 16:9 which is what my screen is at.
> 
> I moved the projector around so that all the boundaries of the focus frame/screen adjustment frame are within the screen borders. I still see a significant amount of light bleed - see image below/attached where you can see that the top portion of the image is at least 1 inch below my screen and I can still see a significant amount of light bleed over it - there is bleed on the side too. I’ll keep playing with the position today
> View attachment 3075806


I did a ton of adjustments. Honestly after a while i got used to living with the light leakage border. I mostly watch uhd/hd content and given i am like 9.5 feet from the screen, there is so much going on in the screen that the border issue fades out of my mind 😏


----------



## 3sprit

What do you mean by CA? Thanks


----------



## ApeEx

3sprit said:


> What do you mean by CA? Thanks


It stands for chromatic aberration, if you look close to the screen when it's displaying white text, you'll probably see a thin blue outline on the top, and red on the bottom. 
I don't think it's an issue, unless you like to read lots of white text closer than three feet (a meter) from the screen.


----------



## theos2

Huge issue with streaming services with lots of menus and guides as well as video games that have HUDs.


----------



## sollyemmy

3sprit said:


> What do you mean by CA? Thanks


you sir are a life saver by asking the question as i thought it was "Color Accuracy" through this conversation. Thank you


----------



## santiagodraco

Vzx said:


> So I went home last night and checked the projector settings again. Reset the picture completely. Aspect ratio is default at 16:9 which is what my screen is at.
> 
> I moved the projector around so that all the boundaries of the focus frame/screen adjustment frame are within the screen borders. I still see a significant amount of light bleed - see image below/attached where you can see that the top portion of the image is at least 1 inch below my screen and I can still see a significant amount of light bleed over it - there is bleed on the side too. I’ll keep playing with the position today
> View attachment 3075806


I can't say with certainty but it's quite likely your issue is that your screen is not flat. I found that the image will change drastically with the slightest imperfection in the screen. If possible get yourself a large straight edge and check for uniformity across the surface/edges. Likely the center is further in than the edges.


----------



## mcollin6

Jue Liang said:


> My measurements will be taken on a reference white screen ST130G4 in a bat cave fully covered with triple black velvet, so it’s not a typical environment for UST pjs. But it’s to show the absolute performance of this projector when there is no other light or reflected light.
> After that, the screen choice will depend on where I want to use it, my bat cave or my bedroom or my son’s “toy room”, I have not decided yet.


FYI, You will be using that screen out of spec for the LSP9T according to the manufacturer. This should result in brightness uniformity issues as well as an overall brightness decrease due to the screen mismatch. I will be interested to find out what information your measurements provide.


----------



## Jue Liang

mcollin6 said:


> FYI, You will be using that screen out of spec for the LSP9T according to the manufacturer. This should result in brightness uniformity issues as well as an overall brightness decrease due to the screen mismatch. I will be interested to find out what information your measurements provide.
> 
> View attachment 3076518


I am fully aware of all those. The brightness uniformity of st130g4 has been well discussed on AVS over and over because no one actually saw any hot spot effect as it would be suggested by Stewart’s reflection curve. Myself also found it to be surprisingly good in this regard and no observable difference comparing to my other unity gain white screens even at extreme angles. With that being said, I also have a few other white screens and screen samples (including ST100) that I will take measurements on.
Regarding brightness, I will use a NIST certified light meter facing the projector to measure its light output, so nothing to do with the screen.


----------



## mcollin6

Jue Liang said:


> I am fully aware of all those. The brightness uniformity of st130g4 has been well discussed on AVS over and over because no one actually saw any hot spot effect as it would be suggested by Stewart’s reflection curve. Myself also found it to be surprisingly good in this regard and no observable difference comparing to my other unity gain white screens even at extreme angles. With that being said, I also have a few other white screens and screen samples (including ST100) that I will take measurements on.
> Regarding brightness, I will use a NIST certified light meter facing the projector to measure its light output, so nothing to do with the screen.


 Doubt you would see much hotspotting since the angle of incidence will range between 50 and 80 degrees. That should keep the gain between 0.8-0.65 based on the curve published by Stewart. You will most likely see a loss of about 40% of the brightness off the screen from a similar lumen output long throw projector. There could be more dimming in the upper corners, but whether or not it is visible to the eye, I don’t know. The comparison with the 100 will be interesting to see, as that screen is lambertIan and should be unaffected by the throw ratio.


----------



## Transepoch

d_bohne said:


> what screen are you using? I’m planning on getting this projector and using it with a 140” screen, the only one I can find is this X-Y one...
> 
> http://[URL][URL][URL][URL][URL][UR...t/62441532495/XY-Screen-150-inch-UST-ALR.html[/URL][/URL][/URL][/URL][/URL][/URL]


Someone had mentioned the EluneVision Reference 8K UST screens back on the review thread, and it looks like they have 135" & 150" options. Are they just first to the party, or are the results not appealing?


----------



## ApeEx

I discovered an improvement in the latest firmware: No more skipping with Bluetooth headphones. 
On the original firmware the audio would cut out every few minutes over Bluetooth. If anyone has this issue I'd recommend updating.


----------



## mcollin6

Transepoch said:


> Someone had mentioned the EluneVision Reference 8K UST screens back on the review thread, and it looks like they have 135" & 150" options. Are they just first to the party, or are the results not appealing?


The Aurora is a higher quality screen. Here is a video comparison.


----------



## Transepoch

mcollin6 said:


> The Aurora is a higher quality screen. Here is a video comparison.


The Aurora has a higher ALR rate (89% vs. 79%,) which is why I find it odd the reference looked better (less washed-out) with ambient light in the video, higher gain, and better viewing angle, but if you want to go above 120" or need a motorized screen then it isn't available (outside of going custom, anyway.) However, not using the same projector could have also been a factor in the video comparison.


----------



## ACE844

I found another review that published and shared some Calman measurement findings : Review: Samsung LSP9T UST projector with impressive specs (allhomecinema.com). All image rights are property of the original creators and attribution is to the link above.

"The lasers of the Samsung LSP9T UST projector also provide a first in our test room. The maximum color gamut clocked in at 95% Rec.2020, thanks to the lasers’ almost monospectral colors. The red really blew us off our socks. That is really an impressive achievement, but to be fair, it is of course not much use. Content that uses that color range is virtually non-existent. The projector does cover DCI-P3 nicely, the meter pointed 90% to that, although you will hit even higher with a better calibration."

Again another source reporting color gamut performance below the 100%+ claims it is marketed as having














.
In regards to CA, RBE, and Speckle they found
"
After all the corrections, we notice that the projector does not perfectly align the three main colors. This is normally impossible with single-chip DLP models, and we only see this with LCD models (which use a separate LCD chip for each color). It is therefore probably a chromatic aberration in the lens. Fortunately, the effect is very small, smaller than a pixel, and we never noticed it during our usual test material.

This laser projector does not use a laser-phosphor combination, but uses three lasers (one for red, green and blue). A color wheel is therefore superfluous, which partly explains its silent functioning. Yet you can also see a rainbow effect on this projector. Yes, there is no color wheel, but the projector still has to project a red, green and blue image one after the other. After all, there is only one DLP chip. In practice, we could only see this if we looked at the screen from the corner of the eye, and not on all images. But who is sensitive to it must take it into account.

“Laser speckle”, that typical effect that laser light shows some kind of tiny stars, is also visible, but only when you stand within a meter of the screen. At a normal viewing distance, we had no problems with it."

As @cinehomede noted in their review it would seem a highly skilled and experienced calibrator would be an essential requirement to get this project to perform to the Samsung marketed capabilities.

HTH


----------



## newtophoto

ACE844 said:


> I found another review that published and shared some Calman measurement findings : Review: Samsung LSP9T UST projector with impressive specs (allhomecinema.com). All image rights are property of the original creators and attribution is to the link above.
> 
> "The lasers of the Samsung LSP9T UST projector also provide a first in our test room. The maximum color gamut clocked in at 95% Rec.2020, thanks to the lasers’ almost monospectral colors. The red really blew us off our socks. That is really an impressive achievement, but to be fair, it is of course not much use. Content that uses that color range is virtually non-existent. The projector does cover DCI-P3 nicely, the meter pointed 90% to that, although you will hit even higher with a better calibration."
> 
> Again another source reporting color gamut performance below the 100%+ claims it is marketed as having
> View attachment 3076821
> View attachment 3076823
> .
> In regards to CA, RBE, and Speckle they found
> "
> After all the corrections, we notice that the projector does not perfectly align the three main colors. This is normally impossible with single-chip DLP models, and we only see this with LCD models (which use a separate LCD chip for each color). It is therefore probably a chromatic aberration in the lens. Fortunately, the effect is very small, smaller than a pixel, and we never noticed it during our usual test material.
> 
> This laser projector does not use a laser-phosphor combination, but uses three lasers (one for red, green and blue). A color wheel is therefore superfluous, which partly explains its silent functioning. Yet you can also see a rainbow effect on this projector. Yes, there is no color wheel, but the projector still has to project a red, green and blue image one after the other. After all, there is only one DLP chip. In practice, we could only see this if we looked at the screen from the corner of the eye, and not on all images. But who is sensitive to it must take it into account.
> 
> “Laser speckle”, that typical effect that laser light shows some kind of tiny stars, is also visible, but only when you stand within a meter of the screen. At a normal viewing distance, we had no problems with it."
> 
> As @cinehomede noted in their review it would seem a highly skilled and experienced calibrator would be an essential requirement to get this project to perform to the Samsung marketed capabilities.
> 
> HTH


How does one get this professionally calibrated for someone with no experience in calibrating? Is there a program or something we can use?


----------



## ACE844

newtophoto said:


> How does one get this professionally calibrated for someone with no experience in calibrating? Is there a program or something we can use?


I'm in the same boat this is my first PJ so I'm still trying to figure a lot of this out and learn as I go. Hopefully some of the other more experienced folks will share their wisdom. 
I have opensource display cal and a spyder elite but I'm struggling with getting beyond "color profiles" and actually getting it to calibrate or provide values to get the display calibrated. I've just done some initial tinkering with it though as I'm still waiting on my screen to arrive.


----------



## Transepoch

newtophoto said:


> How does one get this professionally calibrated for someone with no experience in calibrating? Is there a program or something we can use?


By definition, you hire a professional to do it for you.


----------



## santiagodraco

mcollin6 said:


> The Aurora is a higher quality screen. Here is a video comparison.


Not sure what to think here. Certainly not scientific but I'm not see how the image in this video is any better than say what I'm getting on my EliteScreens AEON CLR 120. The entire video is completely non-scientific. It's interesting but doesn't do anything to really compare the quality of the screens. 

In any case after seeing that and seeing what I'm getting in my room (with ambient light even) I am glad I didn't spend that kind of money (ie the 3500 bucks) on a screen.


----------



## Mikenificent1

Transepoch said:


> By definition, you hire a professional to do it for you.


Lol


----------



## 3sprit

According to Samsung Germany, the LSP9T projector uses a 0.47" and not a 0.66" DLP chipset.


SAMSUNG LSP7T et LSP9T : le retour du constructeur coréen. – – Le Blog de PHC –


----------



## TimA1

3sprit said:


> According to Samsung Germany, the LSP9T projector uses a 0.47" and not a 0.66" DLP chipset.
> 
> 
> SAMSUNG LSP7T et LSP9T : le retour du constructeur coréen. – – Le Blog de PHC –


I don't think that's true what they say. I did a comparison test LSP9T vs optoma p2 (which has 0.47" chip) using Spears and Munsil's HD 4K disk and all other possible soft on my laptop. The "native" resolution of LSP9T is way better than Optoma's.


----------



## TimA1

But it looks like I found a big issue with Rec2020 video processing. I did the tests Spears and Munsil's HD 4K call HSV Sweep BT.2020 and HSV Sweep P3D65/BT.2020plus Quantization Rotate. Look at the pictures!! ! Top right photo looks fine, but the color space is BT.709.




























Above are HSV Sweep BT.2020. Below HSV Sweep P3D65/BT.2020.

Look at the dark blue line. It has to be a smooth color transition. You can spot the same dark line in a Cr


----------



## TimA1

Look at the dark line at Cr !!!


----------



## TimA1

I have a Panasonic ub9000. Even don't know, maybe my particular unit has a problem. I will buy a Sony later today just for a test...... Will see..


----------



## 3sprit

TimA1 said:


> I don't think that's true what they say. I did a comparison test LSP9T vs optoma p2 (which has 0.47" chip) using Spears and Munsil's HD 4K disk and all other possible soft on my laptop. The "native" resolution of LSP9T is way better than Optoma's.


Have you compared the two Samsungs? However, you could ask Samsung USA (Samsung Italy does not know...)


----------



## Mikenificent1

TimA1 said:


> But it looks like I found a big issue with Rec2020 video processing. I did the tests Spears and Munsil's HD 4K call HSV Sweep BT.2020 and HSV Sweep P3D65/BT.2020plus Quantization Rotate. Look at the pictures!! ! Top right photo looks fine, but the color space is BT.709.
> View attachment 3077292
> View attachment 3077293
> View attachment 3077294
> View attachment 3077295
> Above are HSV Sweep BT.2020. Below HSV Sweep P3D65/BT.2020.
> 
> Look at the dark blue line. It has to be a smooth color transition. You can spot the same dark line in a Cr


I don’t know enough about the test, but is it possible it’s because you have the projector set to RGB?


----------



## TimA1

Mikenificent1 said:


> I don’t know enough about the test, but is it possible it’s because you have the projector set to RGB?


I have tried all possible settings starting from 4:2:0 to RGB. the picture looks almost the same


----------



## TimA1

3sprit said:


> Have you compared the two Samsungs? However, you could ask Samsung USA (Samsung Italy does not know...)


Customer service usually knows nothing about the goods they sell. They can only tell you the information you can read from their web-site And a manual.


----------



## namtech

quick question to any LSP7T or LSP9T owner. German seller heimkino.de list Free Sync VRR support for both of the projectors, however none of the official Samsung spec documents contains more details about supported features. I think they are mistaken, can someone confirm?


----------



## Tophe_fr

I don't think they support it because none have hdmi 2.1


----------



## namtech

Tophe_fr said:


> I don't think they support it because none have hdmi 2.1


VRR is not strictly limited to 2.1


----------



## bennutt

namtech said:


> quick question to any LSP7T or LSP9T owner. German seller heimkino.de list Free Sync VRR support for both of the projectors, however none of the official Samsung spec documents contains more details about supported features. I think they are mistaken, can someone confirm?


There is no VRR.
They do support ALLM (Auto Low Latency Mode)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## namtech

bennutt said:


> There is no VRR.
> They do support ALLM (Auto Low Latency Mode)
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


thank you. so basically it just switches to game mode, if it detects a game console/pc/whatever-sends-proper-signal.


----------



## Ricimer

Does anyone have any tips and tricks to fit the LSP9T to the screen without using the built in screen adjustment? I can't for the life of me get it exactly square by using the three feets.


----------



## santiagodraco

3sprit said:


> Have you compared the two Samsungs? However, you could ask Samsung USA (Samsung Italy does not know...)


I compared all of them, P1, P2, LSP7T and LSP9T and the 9T is far sharper, far far better than any of the others.


----------



## santiagodraco

Ricimer said:


> Does anyone have any tips and tricks to fit the LSP9T to the screen without using the built in screen adjustment? I can't for the life of me get it exactly square by using the three feets.


Make sure your screen is flat. Get yourself a long straight edge and check for any deformity in the screen caused by the wall not being flat, which is very likely. This is a primary cause of distortion with a UST projector especially one with as short a throw as the 9T.

After that you should work on making sure your projector is perpendicular to the screen, as in level. 

I have no issues with getting my straight without using the adjustments, if maybe a very slight adjustment.


----------



## Ricimer

santiagodraco said:


> Make sure your screen is flat. Get yourself a long straight edge and check for any deformity in the screen caused by the wall not being flat, which is very likely. This is a primary cause of distortion with a UST projector especially one with as short a throw as the 9T.
> 
> After that you should work on making sure your projector is perpendicular to the screen, as in level.
> 
> I have no issues with getting my straight without using the adjustments, if maybe a very slight adjustment.


I tried getting the projector perpendicular to the wall by using a laser measurer, however, since the projector doesn't have any straight edges or sides its's useless.
I'll try it the old fashion way, thanks for the tips.


----------



## Larry J

Ricimer said:


> Does anyone have any tips and tricks to fit the LSP9T to the screen without using the built in screen adjustment? I can't for the life of me get it exactly square by using the three feets.


Just make sure you have the correct height from the floor and square to the screen, which is nothing new of course. But not always that easy when such extremely small movement makes it right or not. Have to be sure you do have the right height and all that or it won't fit right to the screen. I wasn't use to doing that but when getting serious to get it right it was amusing at times. I use a windows desktop and other patterns also, just to see how it was looking overall. At the end I had it right except for one corner. I decided it might need to go up more, so I slipped a really thin bar coaster under one of the feet and that did it. Just that little amount. So was able to get that foot out a tiny amount without moving anything else. I refused to use the electronic adjustments though.


----------



## Ricimer

Larry J said:


> Just make sure you have the correct height from the floor and square to the screen, which is nothing new of course. But not always that easy when such extremely small movement makes it right or not. Have to be sure you do have the right height and all that or it won't fit right to the screen. I wasn't use to doing that but when getting serious to get it right it was amusing at times. I use a windows desktop and other patterns also, just to see how it was looking overall. At the end I had it right except for one corner. I decided it might need to go up more, so I slipped a really thin bar coaster under one of the feet and that did it. Just that little amount. So was able to get that foot out a tiny amount without moving anything else. I refused to use the electronic adjustments though.


I haven't mounted the screen to the wall yet, i didn't want to do that before i had the picture "calibrated" first on the wall itself.

Am i thinking right that if the screen is perfect on the wall (measuring each side from the ceiling/wall), the most important fitment is the height of the screen? All else can be adjusted on the projector side after the fact?


----------



## bennutt

Larry J said:


> Just make sure you have the correct height from the floor and square to the screen, which is nothing new of course. But not always that easy when such extremely small movement makes it right or not. Have to be sure you do have the right height and all that or it won't fit right to the screen. I wasn't use to doing that but when getting serious to get it right it was amusing at times. I use a windows desktop and other patterns also, just to see how it was looking overall. At the end I had it right except for one corner. I decided it might need to go up more, so I slipped a really thin bar coaster under one of the feet and that did it. Just that little amount. So was able to get that foot out a tiny amount without moving anything else. I refused to use the electronic adjustments though.


I would add that adjusting the screen itself can dial in the last corner or edge. As walls aren’t perfect, neither are screen mount points. Sometimes you can “shim” a corner of the screen with a washer (or wood depending on the screen and how you mounted it) to achieve the perfect alignment.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ACE844

@ProCentral Rob just curious as to whether you guys were planning to do a review on this projector? I saw you did one on the LG HU810PB.


----------



## newtophoto

santiagodraco said:


> Make sure your screen is flat. Get yourself a long straight edge and check for any deformity in the screen caused by the wall not being flat, which is very likely. This is a primary cause of distortion with a UST projector especially one with as short a throw as the 9T.
> 
> After that you should work on making sure your projector is perpendicular to the screen, as in level.
> 
> I have no issues with getting my straight without using the adjustments, if maybe a very slight adjustment.


If your wall isn't completely flat, do you have to move the screen to a different location or are there ways to go about it?


----------



## namtech

newtophoto said:


> If your wall isn't completely flat, do you have to move the screen to a different location or are there ways to go about it?


not relevant strictly to the LSP9T, my apartment has extremely uneven walls and even ceiling height is a bit off from A to B end of the Room; and trying to adjust the UST to it (UHZ65UST when i still had it) was a sheer nightmare - i was spending hours adjusting feet, trying to add packs of paper below its back feet trying to level it out to match the wall as good as possible. It was never satisfying - and if it was it was only for short time as the slightest move to the projector would mess it up completely again. What helped in my case ultimately was to adjust the screen slightly rather than the UST. Screen is a XYScreen 100" PET Crystal, i added a small spacer on in one corner to move that corner further away from the wall and had to lower the screen like 2cm on one of it sides. Having a unleveled screen on the wall was the lesser evil in my case and even with my mild OCD it didn't bother me that much.

I did intentionally not use smart fit as this gets deactivated during game mode in the case of Optoma, just some light warp correction afterwards to fix a uneven line which bothered me during movies but not during games.


----------



## Charles R

newtophoto said:


> If your wall isn't completely flat, do you have to move the screen to a different location or are there ways to go about it?


I suggest placing a couples of spacers between the mounting bracket and wall with the top two brackets and not mounting the bottom brackets. This should let the screen hang "straight" down and remove the wall to a large degree. It also allows you to move the bottom of the screen in or out to help with the alignment.


----------



## Genzi

I want to mount my LSP9t on the ceiling. I have a CLR screen and would hang it up the other way around. do you think it is possible? At the moment the projector is below, but I don't know where to put the center speaker and above the screen I don't think it's good!


----------



## Run&Gun

Don't be afraid to use a little bit of edge adjustment/image warp with your UST projectors. I've had the LG HU85 for over a year now, and it can be INCREDIBLY difficult to get a UST projector lined up *perfectly. *I actually overshoot the screen slightly on the top and sides and adjust it IN with the "warping". Saves my patience and sanity.




Genzi said:


> I want to mount my LSP9t on the ceiling. I have a CLR screen and would hang it up the other way around. do you think it is possible? At the moment the projector is below, but I don't know where to put the center speaker and above the screen I don't think it's good!


Something to think about flipping the screen, if you have any light coming from the ceiling/above the screen, it will wash out the image, because it will then be oriented in the direction to receive light from above, not reject it.

I don't know how much space you have where your UST is mounted, but I have my center channel placed directly in front of my projector.


----------



## santiagodraco

newtophoto said:


> If your wall isn't completely flat, do you have to move the screen to a different location or are there ways to go about it?


Assuming the projector screen itself is flat (ie the frame and screen) then you can simply adjust the mounting of the screen so that the wall isn't deforming the screen. You basically want to assure that the screen is hanging straight without any twisting or bending of the frame. It should float from it's mounting points basically.


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## bennutt

Genzi said:


> I want to mount my LSP9t on the ceiling. I have a CLR screen and would hang it up the other way around. do you think it is possible? At the moment the projector is below, but I don't know where to put the center speaker and above the screen I don't think it's good!


If you can manage this from a bracket and it works... hero status.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Genzi

Ich habe diese Halterung für die Montage des Projektors gekauft. Die Anpassung des Bildes sollte sehr einfach sein. Meine Installation sieht derzeit wie folgt aus.


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## Genzi

686 • 5 h ago

I bought this bracket for mounting the projector. Adjusting the image should be very easy. My installation currently looks like this.


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## sollyemmy

Genzi said:


> Ich habe diese Halterung für die Montage des Projektors gekauft. Die Anpassung des Bildes sollte sehr einfach sein. Meine Installation sieht derzeit wie folgt aus.
> View attachment 3080078
> View attachment 3080079


Where did you get that console and the bracket.. looks amazing.


----------



## Ricimer

What are the downsides with using the built in adjustment/warp setting for the LSP7T/LSP9T? I've read that the light will leak even more off the screen? Since i haven't yet installed my screen i can't really get a good feel for it if i were to test it myself.
I feel that my picture is abit too high of the floor (32in), by adjusting the front feet aggressively i could probobly lower the screen a fair bit, however, then i would also have to use the screen adjustment/warp setting rather aggresively.


----------



## Genzi

sollyemmy said:


> Where did you get that console and the bracket.. looks amazing.


The bracket is from Optoma Model OWM3000. I built the current solution myself. There are 2 wooden panels that made a cutout at noon and have 15cm spacers in between.


----------



## rigidz

Does this projector supports Dolby ATMOS on native apps ? especially on Netflix, Amazon prime. I mean through eARC? When connected to ATMOS compatible receiver?

Thank you.


----------



## ApeEx

rigidz said:


> Does this projector supports Dolby ATMOS on native apps ? especially on Netflix, Amazon prime. I mean through eARC? When connected to ATMOS compatible receiver?
> 
> Thank you.


From what I can tell, the native Disney + app does not support Dolby Atmos, so I use an Xbox instead.


----------



## arpatel

ApeEx said:


> From what I can tell, the native Disney + app does not support Dolby Atmos, so I use an Xbox instead.


You will need eARC in your receiver in order to get Dolby Atmos . If receiver has just ARC then you get only stereo sound .


----------



## ApeEx

arpatel said:


> You will need eARC in your receiver in order to get Dolby Atmos . If receiver has just ARC then you get only stereo sound .


I have eARC, (also it needs to be enabled in the projector settings, it's off by default) I'm pretty sure the native Disney plus app doesn't have Atmos, I can double check later


----------



## newtophoto

How is this projector on a white wall? I don't want to buy a screen yet, since I'll be moving in a year.


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## Genzi

The picture can be projected very well on the wall. I currently have a gray wall which makes the black in the picture better! However, a CLR screen is best.


----------



## donbraxton

newtophoto said:


> How is this projector on a white wall? I don't want to buy a screen yet, since I'll be moving in a year.


The Image can be projected on to a wall . to get the best image, the room should be light controlled ( as much as possible) , wall surface should be flat and shouldnt have any texture
Other option is buy a screen material ( gray/white costs around 70-100$) and stick to the wall using double sided tape. You will get a flat, texture free surface.
I did the same when I was in rented apartment.



donbraxton said:


> I dont think you need a expensive ALR screen if the room is going to be pitch black ( see the comparison video, GF1 is gray screen). White/Gray Screen material should be fine. I would try with different screen samples before buying one. And with white/gray screen, you can go bigger than 120" screen (or even AT screen). Currently I am using 140" gray screen with this projector in a dark room.


----------



## sollyemmy

Will the price of this projector go down in the coming months hopefully based on the past pricing trends. I am getting a deal for $5,849.99 (10% off from workplace) and am hoping it could go down bit more in the coming months. I am just starting to build my HT so i can wait a few months (May 2021 or later). I can only go with this projector based on my space and height and other constraints..

Please advice and let me know of any suggestions.


----------



## TRobbert

Some questions to the owners:

1. Does the Samsung have a HDR tone mapping feature on/off in menu? (like the LG has)

2. Is the USB power always on? If so can it be turned off in menu? Like to use a floor rising screen with a usb remote thing sticked into Samsung that automatically roll up the screen when power is pressed on the Samsung.

3. I know its not HDMI 2.1, read somewhere that it was VRR compatible, but dont find any information, can anyone comfirm if VRR would work (upto 60hz)? Ill use XBOX Series X.


----------



## Ricoflashback

***A couple questions - although not an apples to apples comparison, how would you compare the picture quality to an OLED? LCD? How about a standard projector like the Epson 6050? I know that it’s not a simple comparison since you’re getting a much larger screen versus an OLED or LCD TV. 

Also - the stand I’m looking at is 21” in height. Is that too high? With our cats and need for space for my very large center speaker - - I can’t go the low stand route.


----------



## rigidz

Anyone who is with ALR screen, can you compare this projector picture on plain wall vs on ALR UST screen please. 
Samsung advertises this projector with very generic statement "The laser projector can be projected on a flat white or bright monotone wall without setting up an additional screen. For a more optimized experience, using a screen dedicated to Ultra-short Throw projector is recommended.". 

Only people with ALR screen can say what is this optimized experience. 
@bennutt, Thank you for starting this thread. Would it possible for you to maintain FAQ style initial thread please. Since you are the original owner, only you can do that ( not sure wether shared access is possible). I'll be happy to contribute, once I get the projector ( have ordered one.).


----------



## driege

Ricoflashback said:


> Also - the stand I’m looking at is 21” in height. Is that too high? With our cats and need for space for my very large center speaker - - I can’t go the low stand route.


That should be fine. if you have low ceilings and combine that with the biggest size screen, you might not have the space. But in most cases I think you'd be able to fit the screen below the top of the ceiling.


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## bennutt

rigidz said:


> Anyone who is with ALR screen, can you compare this projector picture on plain wall vs on ALR UST screen please.
> Samsung advertises this projector with very generic statement "The laser projector can be projected on a flat white or bright monotone wall without setting up an additional screen. For a more optimized experience, using a screen dedicated to Ultra-short Throw projector is recommended.".
> 
> Only people with ALR screen can say what is this optimized experience.
> @bennutt, Thank you for starting this thread. Would it possible for you to maintain FAQ style initial thread please. Since you are the original owner, only you can do that ( not sure wether shared access is possible). I'll be happy to contribute, once I get the projector ( have ordered one.).


I’m happy to throw any edits you like on the front, I’d give you ownership if I could, I switched to the LG anyway.

I have an ALR screen, have not compared to a standard white screen, but I CAN tell you the chances of your wall being straight enough or flaw free is slim to none. Every possible bump will show up in the geometry. That is true for any UST.

I’m happy with everything now with the exception of fan noise (LG is louder than Samsung) and difficult center channel placement in my room. I can either put it on the floor or “awkwardly forward”











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bennutt

Ricoflashback said:


> ***A couple questions - although not an apples to apples comparison, how would you compare the picture quality to an OLED? LCD? How about a standard projector like the Epson 6050? I know that it’s not a simple comparison since you’re getting a much larger screen versus an OLED or LCD TV.
> 
> Also - the stand I’m looking at is 21” in height. Is that too high? With our cats and need for space for my very large center speaker - - I can’t go the low stand route.


I’d put in on par with a Full Array Dimming LED. It’s not quite OLED.

My stand is 13” off the ground for a 120” screen - the bottom of which is 28” off the floor. I could cheat that up another 8” to meet 21 and I’d still have 9” of clearance under this light alcove. The height difference between LG and Samsung is only 3/4”











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rigidz

bennutt said:


> I’m happy to throw any edits you like on the front, I’d give you ownership if I could, I switched to the LG anyway.
> 
> I have an ALR screen, have not compared to a standard white screen, but I CAN tell you the chances of your wall being straight enough or flaw free is slim to none. Every possible bump will show up in the geometry. That is true for any UST.
> 
> I’m happy with everything now with the exception of fan noise (LG is louder than Samsung) and difficult center channel placement in my room. I can either put it on the floor or “awkwardly forward”
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thank you bennutt. I have135 white screen, hence my questions about UST screen. 

 What is the main reason, you switched to back to LG? (CA issue?)
 If these projectors priced same, which one would you pick? 
 Since you compared both, assuming CA issue is fixed. Which one would you recommend?


----------



## bennutt

rigidz said:


> Thank you bennutt. I have135 white screen, hence my questions about UST screen.
> 
> What is the main reason, you switched to back to LG? (CA issue?)
> If these projectors priced same, which one would you pick?
> Since you compared both, assuming CA issue is fixed. Which one would you recommend?


CA issue was the deal breaker. I could never un-see it.

If they could fix that, Samsung would be the better projector with native HDR10+ and more quiet operation.

The LG does have dynamic tone mapping for HDR10.

Both projectors create an awesome image and are equal with input lag. It doesn’t hurt that LG is substantially cheaper right now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## TRobbert

Bennutt, very interesting and useful information. Have some questions.

1. Using 4k Blurays did you find the Samsung more colorful than the LG? On paper its a 50% difference, ofcourse that would translate to max 10-20% if mastered to the dci p3 limit. What differencies regarding color could you see on screen?

2. Regarding HDR10 playback, so the LG has dynamic tone mapping feature that the Samsung doesnt, would you say visibly this makes the LG superior with HDR10 content? Maybe Samsung has got something similar on as deafault and dont let the user decide an on/off option?

3, Did you noitce any differencies ragarding motion handling on 24p content? Any stutter, judder etc.


----------



## bennutt

TRobbert said:


> Bennutt, very interesting and useful information. Have some questions.
> 
> 1. Using 4k Blurays did you find the Samsung more colorful than the LG? On paper its a 50% difference, ofcourse that would translate to max 10-20% if mastered to the dci p3 limit. What differencies regarding color could you see on screen?
> 
> 2. Regarding HDR10 playback, so the LG has dynamic tone mapping feature that the Samsung doesnt, would you say visibly this makes the LG superior with HDR10 content? Maybe Samsung has got something similar on as deafault and dont let the user decide an on/off option?
> 
> 3, Did you noitce any differencies ragarding motion handling on 24p content? Any stutter, judder etc.


Hey there,
1) I use an Oppo player and found both projectors to be absolutely stunning with color. I know on paper the Samsung “does better” but without calibration measurement- I can’t see the difference. I will say the lasers act a bit different in 2 ways. You can take a photo of an LG screen with a phone and get a close approximation of what you are looking at. Something on the Samsung tweaks iPhones when you photograph it. I also notice less “speckle” on the screen I’m using - specifically the bright red color- on LG. It was more noticeable on Samsung.

2) I suspect Samsung tech for tone mapping isn’t unique to 10+ content. HDR10 material looks great on both. I will say that there is a knock on the LG here... dynamic tone mapping is REQUIRED because without that feature turned on the picture loses detail pretty quickly. I noticed this most with Xbox games. If I went from dark environment outside to light, it took a second for the tone mapping to “catch up” and switch to the correct levels of light. Never noticed an issue with movies though, only HDR in games specifically. 
One more note re: 10+ - I love Dolby Vision so that feature was a huge attraction toward Samsung. In reality, I had some Amazon Prime video (and bought Fire TV to deliver it) and about 4 of my 4K discs - out of a wall of them- actually had 10+ data. There isn’t as much content actually out there. Google the list of discs and see how many you have or want.
I currently have the Oppo and Apple TV feeding Dolby Vision data out to the LG cheating with an HD Fury Vertex device.

3) Both of these projectors kick ass for smooth frame rates. I haven’t been bothered by judder with any of the sources I use. It would have been nice if they were HDMI 2.1 but it sounds like even the TV sets are struggling to deliver on those speed promises in the real world. (So far) - I also thought 50ms lag would be a huge issue for me, but I play first person shooters every day with no issues. I’m sure I’m not winning any tournaments but casual play is just fine.


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## easystar

I’m having a curious issue with mine not mentioned yet. Wondering if I have a defective unit.

I get the speckle and CA that everyone else has. They are acceptable to me and I can’t see them from normal viewing distance.

So I can’t place mine dead center of my screen. It is a full 5 inches to the right to get a centered image. I see everyone else’s are centered.

Strange right?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## rigidz

easystar said:


> I’m having a curious issue with mine not mentioned yet. Wondering if I have a defective unit.
> 
> I get the speckle and CA that everyone else has. They are acceptable to me and I can’t see them from normal viewing distance.
> 
> So I can’t place mine dead center of my screen. It is a full 5 inches to the right to get a centered image. I see everyone else’s are centered.
> 
> Strange right?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


@use key stone correction, see if it fixes your issue.


----------



## Deretour

Hey there,
I'm new on this forum but thank you for all this information on this topic ! I have bought a LSP9 2 weeks ago and I'm very happy of it !
However I have an issue. Mainly with streaming sources and mainly with low quality (but I have the same issue with all sources) the global color of the image has variations (the same image variate from red tendances to green tendances). It's rare and not very important but it's perturbing. Anyone has got this issue ?
Many thanks


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## TimA1

Deretour said:


> Hey there,
> I'm new on this forum but thank you for all this information on this topic ! I have bought a LSP9 2 weeks ago and I'm very happy of it !
> However I have an issue. Mainly with streaming sources and mainly with low quality (but I have the same issue with all sources) the global color of the image has variations (the same image variate from red tendances to green tendances). It's rare and not very important but it's perturbing. Anyone has got this issue ?
> Many thanks


Everybody. Just use Rec 709 color space instead of P3 or 2020.


----------



## TimA1

My projector plays "system sound" while watching any content from any source. Maybe one time in a hour. It's similar to the system sound on your PC when you plug in a USB device.
You can watch a movie on Blu-Ray and suddenly the projector plays "ding-dong". I even turned off all systems sounds in settings. Doesn't help. Anyone have the same issue?


----------



## ApeEx

TimA1 said:


> My projector plays "system sound" while watching any content from any source. Maybe one time in a hour. It's similar to the system sound on your PC when you plug in a USB device.
> You can watch a movie on Blu-Ray and suddenly the projector plays "ding-dong". I even turned off all systems sounds in settings. Doesn't help. Anyone have the same issue?


I've never heard that... The only system sound I've encountered was a short jingle on startup, which was added in the last firmware update.That was easy to disable though. Are you on 1402 firmware?
BTW, did you ever run the Spears and Muncil test on another Blu-ray player?


----------



## ProjectionHead

easystar said:


> I’m having a curious issue with mine not mentioned yet. Wondering if I have a defective unit.
> 
> I get the speckle and CA that everyone else has. They are acceptable to me and I can’t see them from normal viewing distance.
> 
> So I can’t place mine dead center of my screen. It is a full 5 inches to the right to get a centered image. I see everyone else’s are centered.
> 
> Strange right?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


If you've done a factory reset and that still persists I would contact the dealer you bought it from; it should be centered.


----------



## bjanssen

easystar said:


> I’m having a curious issue with mine not mentioned yet. Wondering if I have a defective unit.
> 
> I get the speckle and CA that everyone else has. They are acceptable to me and I can’t see them from normal viewing distance.
> 
> So I can’t place mine dead center of my screen. It is a full 5 inches to the right to get a centered image. I see everyone else’s are centered.
> 
> Strange right?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


This is very likely just positioned incorrectly. Measure the distance from the left front corner of the projector to the wall, and from the right front corner to the wall. If those two distances are not exactly the same then you have it slightly twisted which is why it ended up where it did. If I had to guess I'd say you had to make one of the front feet lower than the other to get the whole thing square.


----------



## imhotep6

So I wanted to see what the overall opinion is. Is this the best UST out there and worth the extra coin over the LG or even VAVA UST projectors?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Mikenificent1

bennutt said:


> Hey there,
> 1) I use an Oppo player and found both projectors to be absolutely stunning with color. I know on paper the Samsung “does better” but without calibration measurement- I can’t see the difference. I will say the lasers act a bit different in 2 ways. You can take a photo of an LG screen with a phone and get a close approximation of what you are looking at. Something on the Samsung tweaks iPhones when you photograph it. I also notice less “speckle” on the screen I’m using - specifically the bright red color- on LG. It was more noticeable on Samsung.
> 
> 2) I suspect Samsung tech for tone mapping isn’t unique to 10+ content. HDR10 material looks great on both. I will say that there is a knock on the LG here... dynamic tone mapping is REQUIRED because without that feature turned on the picture loses detail pretty quickly. I noticed this most with Xbox games. If I went from dark environment outside to light, it took a second for the tone mapping to “catch up” and switch to the correct levels of light. Never noticed an issue with movies though, only HDR in games specifically.
> One more note re: 10+ - I love Dolby Vision so that feature was a huge attraction toward Samsung. In reality, I had some Amazon Prime video (and bought Fire TV to deliver it) and about 4 of my 4K discs - out of a wall of them- actually had 10+ data. There isn’t as much content actually out there. Google the list of discs and see how many you have or want.
> I currently have the Oppo and Apple TV feeding Dolby Vision data out to the LG cheating with an HD Fury Vertex device.
> 
> 3) Both of these projectors kick ass for smooth frame rates. I haven’t been bothered by judder with any of the sources I use. It would have been nice if they were HDMI 2.1 but it sounds like even the TV sets are struggling to deliver on those speed promises in the real world. (So far) - I also thought 50ms lag would be a huge issue for me, but I play first person shooters every day with no issues. I’m sure I’m not winning any tournaments but casual play is just fine.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


When you’re at your normal viewing distance, which one appears sharper? Which has better black levels?

I know you say both have smooth motion, but HDTVtest said the motion wasn’t that smooth on the LG so I’m curious if there was even a slight difference between the two?


----------



## bennutt

Mikenificent1 said:


> When you’re at your normal viewing distance, which one appears sharper? Which has better black levels?
> 
> I know you say both have smooth motion, but HDTVtest said the motion wasn’t that smooth on the LG so I’m curious if there was even a slight difference between the two?


At a normal viewing distance (for me - which was 9 feet away from a 10 ft screen) the LG was sharper because the chromatic aberration on the Samsung was a deal breaker. Hard to be sharp with a blurring drop shadow effect on white objects.

Black levels equal.

I’m not measuring motion with equipment a reviewer might be armed with. I didn’t notice any differences between the two brands on that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Mikenificent1

Jue Liang said:


> Just ordered a Lsp9t. It’s surprising that I still find no objective measurements in this thread. I should be able to post some measurements in a couple of weeks. I will also compare it to my other projectors, (Lcos, long throw, lamp based, completely different animals though). So the lsp9t won’t be a replacement of my current projector in my bat cave unless it’s super convincing, which I seriously doubt based on my impression on my previous laser DLP. It will be more like a bedroom projector to watch YouTubes or play casual games.


Ahem?? Lol did you get it yet?

Also intersecting to note, this is the first review that I read that mentions dynamic black and what picture modes it’s actually used on:









Samsung Premiere LSP9T Review: Replacement TV | Trusted Reviews


The Samsung Premiere LSP9T does the best job yet of using projector technology to deliver a truly mammoth TV experience




www.trustedreviews.com


----------



## Jue Liang

Mikenificent1 said:


> Ahem?? Lol did you get it yet?
> 
> Also intersecting to note, this is the first review that I read that mentions dynamic black and what picture modes it’s actually used on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Samsung Premiere LSP9T Review: Replacement TV | Trusted Reviews
> 
> 
> The Samsung Premiere LSP9T does the best job yet of using projector technology to deliver a truly mammoth TV experience
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.trustedreviews.com


Yes, I got it a couple weeks ago. I posted some of my test results on a chinese AV forum, and am still getting more tests done. I plan to post here once I completed all my tests and calibrations.


----------



## rigidz

Any tips on getting this projector image in perfect rectangle (16:9) ? Image is more of a trapezoid and I see a little drooping curve in middle. I am using fixed white screen.

Install google assistant fails. I wonder wether it is supported at all?

Reduced R tint and seen an improvement in Red colors.


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## Jue Liang

Jue Liang said:


> Yes, I got it a couple weeks ago. I posted some of my test results on a chinese AV forum, and am still getting more tests done. I plan to post here once I completed all my tests and calibrations.


I finished all my tests and calibrations, and posted them in a Chinese AV forum. It includes testing every factory mode, SDR and HDR, 709 and 2020, 17^3 profiling, manual calibration and 3D Lut calibration using Lumagen Radiance Pro and colourspace, contrast testing at different ADL% in different types of rooms (my theater room that is fully covered with triple black velvet, and my bedroom with dark curtains), etc.

I was planning to write a English version to post here, but it is a very long article, to re-write it in English would take a lot of time. So I decided to just post the link here and you can use google translate to read it. This will save me some time and you can see my data sooner. I tried the google translate to convert my Chinese post to English. The google translation is not perfect, but it is OK to read.

Here is the link: 全文更新完，2020色域的三色激光超短焦投影LSP9T到手，测试和调教分享-◎视频投影电视 - Powered by HD199.COM!


----------



## ApeEx

rigidz said:


> Any tips on getting this projector image in perfect rectangle (16:9) ? Image is more of a trapezoid and I see a little drooping curve in middle. I am using fixed white screen.
> 
> Install google assistant fails. I wonder wether it is supported at all?
> 
> Reduced R tint and seen an improvement in Red colors.


You probably have to raise or lower the front of your projector, if it needs to be lowered, you can use the adjustable feet to raise the back, if it needs to be raised, use something to prop up the front foot. Once you adjust the height you may need to move the whole unit slightly closer or further to the screen


----------



## ACE844

Jue Liang said:


> I finished all my tests and calibrations, and posted them in a Chinese AV forum. It includes testing every factory mode, SDR and HDR, 709 and 2020, 17^3 profiling, manual calibration and 3D Lut calibration using Lumagen Radiance Pro and colourspace, contrast testing at different ADL% in different types of rooms (my theater room that is fully covered with triple black velvet, and my bedroom with dark curtains), etc.
> 
> I was planning to write a English version to post here, but it is a very long article, to re-write it in English would take a lot of time. So I decided to just post the link here and you can use google translate to read it. This will save me some time and you can see my data sooner. I tried the google translate to convert my Chinese post to English. The google translation is not perfect, but it is OK to read.
> 
> Here is the link: 全文更新完，2020色域的三色激光超短焦投影LSP9T到手，测试和调教分享-◎视频投影电视 - Powered by HD199.COM!


I'm not sure if it's an issue on my end, or not. None of the images in the post/thread at the link you posted loaded for me. I tried 4 different browsers..?


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## Tophe_fr

Yes, same for me.
We have to register maybe ?


----------



## Jue Liang

ACE844 said:


> I'm not sure if it's an issue on my end, or not. None of the images in the post/thread at the link you posted loaded for me. I tried 4 different browsers..?





Tophe_fr said:


> Yes, same for me.
> We have to register maybe ?



Yes, sorry I forgot that you have to register to see the pics.

As I said I don't want to re-write my whole review in English as that would take a lot of time So I used google translation to translate my Chinese post (not perfectly but read-able) and uploaded the pics here for your convenience:

I saw Samsung released this machine some time ago. The hardware configuration is more attractive: the three-color laser reaches the 2020 color gamut, the ultra-short focus can be used directly on the wall, and the 0.66 chip single-chip has no trouble with three-chip alignment. The smart system and speakers can be used as smart TVs.

I was a little interested after seeing it, so I went to Samsung's official website and bought one without a discount, $6,500. This is the sixth projector I bought in the past two years and my second laser 4k DLP projector. My last 4k DLP laser is BenQ’s flagship LK970 with a monochromatic laser of 5000 lumens. I bought two flagship laser DLP projectors in two years. I wonder if I am a big fan of the laser DLP camp?

The main tests and adjustments will be done in my audio-visual room (a black hole that almost perfectly absorbs light) to represent the absolute performance of the machine in a perfect environment. Later, I will also move it to the bedroom or other rooms with white walls to have a try, which is more representative of most people's use environment. Of course, based on my understanding of DLP and my previous experience of using laser DLP, I guess this machine will not be used as a projection in my audio-visual room. It may be used to watch Youtube in other rooms.

The following is the test of the black hole environment: the

projection area is 16:9 100 inches, and all the test data are collected from the reference screen material ST100.


This projector has four preset modes. The brightest is dynamic mode, followed by standard mode. The best color accuracy is film mode and filmmaker mode. The difference between film mode and filmmaker mode is that the latter is turned off All image processing such as frame interpolation and sharpening are eliminated, and users are not allowed to adjust the 10-point grayscale.


*First, let's take a look at the test results of each factory mode of SDR709.*

The following is the dynamic mode. In this mode, the machine defaults to the native color gamut. The test results of the native color gamut are as follows. The native color gamut exceeds 709 and there is no color management at all.













After manually selecting the 709 mode, the test results are as follows




















































In terms of color gamut, the color gamut of the RGB display device essentially depends on the purity of the three primary colors of RGB, so the high-purity three primary colors brought by the extremely narrow wavelength of the RGB three-color laser makes the color gamut of this machine very wide, truly reaching 2020 Standards. However, there is a slight problem with green. On the surface, it even exceeds the 2020 standard. However, the green defined by the 2020 color gamut is not on the same axis, so this "exceeding" has no positive meaning, and the deviation of the axis will cause calibration The actual color gamut afterwards is slightly smaller than the 2020 color gamut. But this is not a big problem, because the color gamut is really wide.

Another excellent data is that the contrast has reached around 2100, which is quite amazing in DLP. The contrast of my last DLP LK970 and 886, which is popular in the forum, is about 1,000.

The bad thing is that the color accuracy in this mode is very poor. From the CIE xy two-dimensional graph, almost all points are biased to blue. The overall EOTF is seriously high. The white balance is close to 20% higher in blue and 10% lower in red and green. about. It can be seen from the Delta E distribution chart that most of the Delta E is above 10. In addition, it can be seen from the CIE xyY three-dimensional graph that the green brightness and red brightness at 100% output are low, resulting in low brightness of yellow and cyan. This result is consistent with the grayscale data, which is caused by the high blue brightness. Therefore, the dynamic mode greatly improves the blue brightness and raises the EOTF to bring a bright but inaccurate picture.



The following is the standard mode. It can be seen that the color and gamma in the standard mode are slightly more accurate than those in the dynamic mode, and the brightness and contrast are slightly lower, but they are still very inaccurate.




















































The following is the movie maker mode.





















































Compared with the dynamic mode, this mode is much better than the dynamic and standard modes. The overall picture style has undergone major changes. The color shift on CIE xy has changed from blueish in dynamic and standard modes to red in all points. It can also be seen from the three-dimensional color space that red brightness is high in filmmaker mode, while green and blue are low . Gamma is basically close to the standard 2.2. In terms of grayscale and white balance, green is basically close to the reference line, blue is about 5% lower, and red is about 5% higher. It can be seen that the main reason is to reduce the blue light output, so the brightness Compared with the contrast, the dynamic mode has decreased, but the contrast is still maintained at a level above 1700. The Delta E distribution is mainly around 4, and the average DeltaE is 4.27. Just looking at the common basic test data of gamma, grayscale and three color gamut vertices, this color standard is not unacceptable in consumer-grade equipment.

The film mode and the filmmaker mode have the same color accuracy. The only difference is that the default interpolation and sharpening settings are different, so there is no need to test separately.







*Let's take a look at the test results under the 2020 color gamut mode.*

Whether in dynamic mode or in filmmaker mode, the color gamut has obviously reached 2020. The gray scale is similar to the 709 color gamut, so I won’t say more. Here is just a brief look at the color gamut, more detailed EOTF test and color test I will explain in the HDR PQ curve test and 3D Lut calibration section below.






















































*Let's talk about the most brainless contrast setting of this machine.*

After I got the machine, I found that the contrast setting at about 45 (maximum 50) can make 100IRE reach the highest brightness, so all the tests when I first got the machine were tested under the premise of setting the contrast to 45.
But then I found out that the contrast setting of this Samsung machine would be very confusing while affecting brightness, color temperature, and gamma. So all my tests must be done from scratch. Now all the data in this article are tested under the default contrast value, where the default contrast value in dynamic and standard mode is 40, and the default contrast setting in film and filmmaker mode is 35. So I simply tried to set the contrast to a different value in the range of 30-50 to detect its effect on color and gamma. The following are all movie production modes, the only difference is the different contrast settings.

The first is to set the contrast to 30. It can be seen that the color is accurate under this setting, the gray scale is no different from the default contrast of 35 (see above), the gamma is slightly reduced, and the biggest difference is that the maximum brightness is reduced.




























Then the contrast is set to 38, there is no obvious difference between the color level and the gray scale, the contrast is 35, the EOTF in the bright area is slightly increased, and the maximum brightness is also slightly increased.





























The following is the contrast set to 41, the color level and the gray scale are still indistinguishable from the contrast 35. The bright EOTF is improved more than the contrast 38, but it is still acceptable. The maximum brightness is further improved.




























The following is the contrast set to 45. At this time, the color accuracy is significantly worsened, the overall EOTF rises very seriously, and the gamma is very inaccurate. At 100IRE on the gray scale, it can be seen that the blue brightness is obviously increased, so the maximum brightness is also increased a lot.



























The following is the highest contrast setting of 50, when the color accuracy is further deteriorated, the overall EOTF rise becomes more serious, and the gamma becomes more inaccurate. Both 100IRE and 90IRE on the gray scale can obviously increase the blue brightness. The maximum brightness is the same as when the contrast is 45, which is why I chose the contrast 45 by mistake in the previous test.




























So my suggestion is that in SDR mode, if you pursue color and gamma accuracy, the contrast value is recommended to be set to 35. If you want to increase the brightness, it is best not to exceed 41.





*Next, look at the EOTF processing of this machine in HDR mode. Not surprisingly, Samsung has integrated the HDR EOTF adjustment into the contrast setting, hey. . .*

When the film maker defaults to a contrast of 35, the highest brightness is around 175nits. In the colourspace, this brightness is multiplied by different coefficients and then compared with its corresponding PQ curve. For example, the following two figures compare with 350nits PQ curve and 1000nitsPQ curve. The lower half of the EOTF basically coincides with the 350 nits PQ curve, and then gradually decreases until the highlight intercept point is 1000 nits.



















Next is the EOTF curve when the contrast is set to 45, multiplied by different coefficients and compared with the PQ curve of 175nits, 250nits, and 1000nits. It can be seen that the overall EOTF is obviously lower than the 175nits curve. Within 50nits, it probably overlaps with the 250nits curve, and then slowly decreases. The highlight intercept point is still around 1000nits. It’s worth noting that I zoomed in on the dark curve, and it can be seen that the EOTF in the dark area is higher than the 175nit curve, indicating that this machine has to raise the dark area EOTF because the contrast is not high enough (high in DLP, but not good enough). In order to show the dark details.














































In addition to the contrast setting in this system, there is an option of ST2084 (-3 to +3 adjustment range) that can finely EOTF. Below is the result of keeping the contrast at 45 and setting the ST2084 option to -3. It can be seen that the entire EOTF basically coincides with the 400nits curve, without the previous slow decline, but the highlight intercept point is still maintained at 1000nits. I personally think that this setting is more balanced when using HDR inside the machine. If you can use external HDR dynamic mapping processing equipment, of course, it is much better than the built-in static mapping.




















I have reached the limit of 50 images per post. I will continue in another post.


----------



## Jue Liang

Jue Liang said:


> Yes, sorry I forgot that you have to register to see the pics.
> 
> So I copied and pasted the google translated texts and uploaded the pics here:
> 
> I have reached the limit of 50 images per post. I will continue in another post.


Again, this is tranlated by google, so there might be some mis-translation. But I don't want to spend days to re-write it in English.

2nd part:

*The following is the manual calibration part.*

After manual calibration through the built-in color adjustment of the projection, I can adjust the basic data of white balance, gamma, and color gamut vertices to a good level. The following are some basic data after manual calibration in 709 and 2020 color gamut modes.























































But scanning the 10-point saturation of six colors again , you can still find more problems. In the 709 mode, the red and blue after manual calibration shift to magenta, and the yellow and cyan shift to green. After manual calibration in 2020 mode, magenta shifts to red, green shifts to cyan, yellow shifts to green, etc.



















Let's come to the more stringent 17^3 5000 points detection. The 5000 points after manual calibration in the 709 and 2020 modes can be seen whether it is a two-dimensional CIE map or a three-dimensional color space. Drag a long "tail", this tail is the direction and size of the color error.





































































So although the grayscale, gamma, and color gamut are done through basic manual calibration, these are just some of the most apex and center point data in the entire color space. If you want to calibrate all the points in the entire color space, you need to rely on 3DLut. .

*The following is an advanced version of calibration :* use Lumagen radiance pro for Test pattern generator and Lut box, and use colourspace for profile and 3D Lut calculation calibration. Of course, the hardware cost and learning threshold of such adjustments are not low.

Look at the 709 mode first . After calibration, the two-dimensional six-color 10-point saturation scan is basically perfect. In the 10^3 thousand-point test, the dense “tails” basically disappeared, and the average DE dropped from 4.27 to 1.3. It's still not perfect, but because the 3D Lut algorithm I chose before is to give priority to color brightness, the brightness after calibration did not drop.














































The final result of the 2020 color gamut mode is as follows, which is similar to the calibration of the 709 color gamut mode. Delta E dropped from 5.92 before calibration to 1.78. The most important thing is that the dense chromatic aberration tails have basically disappeared, and the brightness has not changed after calibration. After tuning, I can achieve this level under the rigorous test of 5000 points in the 2020 color gamut. I am quite satisfied.












































The main problem after 3D Lut calibration is that the color brightness of some edges and vertices in the three-dimensional space is slightly lower, but not too many. In addition, most points in the space are relatively accurate. I put the Delta E distribution before calibration, after manual calibration, and after 3DLut calibration in the same graph, and I can clearly see that each step of calibration effectively reduces the color difference.





















*Let me talk about another problem I recently discovered: the dark color gamut has shrunk seriously. *The color gamut and saturation are measured at the brightest part of the color, but the color space is actually three-dimensional. There are many dark parts in the actual movie. I think it is also necessary to test the dark part color gamut. From the three-dimensional color space of this projection, it can be seen that the saturation of the three primary colors in the dark part is seriously low, and the color gamut is greatly reduced. Below I list the 709 and 2020 color gamut test results at 1%, 2%, 3%, 5%, 10%, 15%, and 20% brightness respectively.









































































































It can be seen that the color gamut is almost very small at 1-3%, almost no color, only gray. In 709 mode, it takes more than 15% brightness to return to the normal color gamut range. In 2020 mode, 20% brightness is required to restore the full 2020 color gamut. This defect is related to the contrast of this machine is not high enough. Although it is good in DLP, it is still not good enough. The dark part is gray and the saturation of the dark part is seriously shrunk. This phenomenon occurs on all devices with insufficient contrast. For example, I found similar problems on my LCD TV with more than 5,000 contrast and monitors with more than 1,000 contrast.



*Below is the contrast test data.*















































First of all, in a black hole environment, the on/off contrast of this LSP9T far exceeds my expectations. The contrast ratio of more than 2000 is twice as high as that of UHZ65. There are even some environments and improperly debugged 3DLP that can’t reach it. This level. The intra-frame (same screen) contrast of 0-10% ADL (frame average brightness) is higher than most DLP. I don't know how Samsung does this. And I have said here many times before, most of the scenes of the movie are mainly concentrated within 0-10% ADL, and the lower the average frame brightness, the higher the sensitivity of the human eye to the contrast. The popular point is the dark scene. The contrast difference is more obvious, I think this is easy to understand. Therefore, the contrast of this projector in most movie scenes can be regarded as the top level in DLP projection.

The contrast of 50% ADL (that is, ANSI contrast) is relatively low. And I can confirm that the bottleneck is not the light absorption of the room, because the contrast measured with my other projector in this room is much higher than this number. The reason for the lower ANSI contrast of this projector is mainly the light reflection of the internal light path and lens of the machine, as well as the light reflection of the white body. This can be seen from the three screen shots posted below the figures. The white bright objects are on the black background. There is an obvious "tail" dragged down, which extends to the bottom of the middle of the picture. But as I have said many times before, although ANSI contrast is widely used, there are almost no scenes as bright as 50% ADL in movies, so ANSI contrast has little effect on actual movies. More important is the intra-frame contrast of 0-10%, especially 0-5% ADL.

Let's look at the test results of moving this projector to the bedroom. I am in the post "Creating a Real Black Hole" ( http://www.hd199.com/thread-1894068-1-1.html) As mentioned, the reflection of the light-colored surface of the room mainly affects the on-screen contrast of the high ADL part. The lower the ADL, the smaller the impact of the reflection, and it has no effect on on/off. This is also easy to understand. So although ANSI contrast has little effect on the actual movie, it is a good standard to measure the degree of light absorption in a room. In a bedroom with no lights and no sunlight and some dark curtains and furniture (I think the room conditions can basically represent the "little black room" in the homes of most fans on the forum), the on/off contrast of LSP9T is not affected , As the ADL becomes higher, the gap between the contrast and the real black hole environment becomes larger. After 1% ADL, it has been twice as bad as the contrast in a true black hole environment, and it is several times lower than 50% ADL. It can also be seen from the test data that the influence of the reflection on the inside and surface of this machine is far less than the influence of the reflection on the light-colored surface of the room, so if there is no real black hole environment like mine at home, I don’t really need to care about this machine too much. Reflective defects. This kind of ultra-short throw projection is not originally a product for the black hole environment.

In the end, I turned on a lamp and tested it. It was terrible. As expected, the projection was dead. The main factor that affects contrast under this condition is other light sources (light or sunlight).

*This is what I have said countless times on HD199, playing with projection, the first shading, the second absorbing light.







A few words about the lens, sharpness and resolution.*

From what I can see with the naked eye, the structure of an ultra-short focal lens and a telephoto projection lens is completely different. As for what kind of design it is, I don't know. What I can see from the screen is that the focus of this lens is very good, and there is not much difference in focus between the center of the screen and the surroundings. There are two shortcomings of this lens, one is the reflection I mentioned in the contrast test above. Second, color aberration can be seen at the edge of the light-dark junction. More than two or three meters away from the screen is not very good.

The sharpness of this projector is very good. I don’t know if it’s close to the screen or because of the three-color laser or other reasons. This machine is even better than my previous telephoto laser 4KDLP LK970 with a top glass lens. Even sharper. Although under the most stringent resolution test, it can be seen that it is not true 4k, but it’s not visible when watching a movie normally, and it’s very sharp subjectively.


*Let's talk about other things.*

rainbow! rainbow! rainbow! This three-color laser projection still has a very obvious rainbow! But it is not as serious as the rainbow of my last monochrome laser DLP. I originally thought that as long as there was no color wheel, there would be no rainbow, but I later found out that this is not the case. Whether there is a rainbow or not essentially depends on whether the color refresh rate is fast enough, and the ability of everyone's eyes to capture this fastflash. The US Air Force Flight Academy's research report stated that it is necessary to reach above 900hz to prevent pilots from seeing the rainbow. For ordinary people, this standard may be lower. It seems that the refresh rate of a color wheel such as RGBW is generally 150hz, and the six-color wheel can reach 300hz. There are also many people who report that the X12000 tri-color LED also has rainbows. I don't know how high the refresh rate of Samsung's tri-color laser is. I hope they can speed up the refresh rate through later firmware updates to solve this problem.
Whether it can be accepted varies from person to person. Even many people think that the rainbow on the four-color wheel DLP is acceptable or invisible. And every time my wife and son see this three-color laser DLP with a lot of rainbows, they complain about so many rainbows. You must know that they are usually not sensitive to things like picture quality and sound quality. A friend of mine took a look and said that the rainbow made him dizzy. He didn't know what a rainbow was before, and I didn't tell him what rainbow to see.

Laser speckle is also quite obvious, especially the brighter solid color part, which can be seen even when sitting three meters away. It looks like a more serious sparkling of a high-gain curtain, and this kind of speckle is almost impossible to take a photo.


Below are some thoughts in the system menus and design.

The settings of this projection are quite weird, and in some places it seems very amateurish. For example, there is no option to adjust the brightness of the light output. It can only be adjusted through the contrast setting in the menu. The contrast in this projector is set at about 45 (maximum 50) to achieve the maximum brightness of 100IRE, below 45 will reduce the brightness of 100IRE, and higher than 45 will reduce the whiteclipping point. And the brightness option in the common menu (this brightness is not the other brightness, here is the black point clipping) is not provided, but it provides an option to enhance the details of the dark parts.

Some settings are very professional. For example, it provides 10-point grayscale. For example, the color adjustment part is directly adjusted through the RGB system, which is very rare in civilian display equipment, instead of the common HSB (hue, saturation, brightness) system. After all, current display devices are all RGB color rendering. Adjusting the color of RGB display devices through HSB is a more indirect but more in line with the human eye observation habits. Adjusting the RGB system can more directly manage the RGB color mixing of the display device, but common color detection software provides CIExy or uv scales close to the HSB system, so adjusting RGB requires the debugger to be familiar with RGB color space and HSB or The conversion relationship of CIExyY color space.

This projector comes with the smart system of Samsung TV, so you can directly open common streaming media apps. But in the interface of streaming media apps, color management doesn't seem to work. The colors in the 709 color gamut of those menu interfaces-including the video preview interface-will be extended to the native color gamut of the machine. Because of the abnormal native 2020 color gamut coverage of this projection, the image that extends the 709 color gamut to the 2020 color gamut looks very disgusting. In addition, when switching between videos of different color gamuts, it often appears that the color mode is not automatically converted, and you need to manually switch back and forth several times in the color mode.

There is also a very unprofessional design. This ultra-short throw projector only has a white body. This type of ultra-short throw projection is basically directly under the screen, and the reflection of the white body on the screen seriously affects the contrast of the same screen. For use in environments like the living room, the reflection of the white wall is much greater than the reflection of the white body, so the reflection of the body can be ignored. But if you want to put it in a perfect light-absorbing environment, the reflection of the white body is very obvious.




*The above are all objective statements of testing and training. Finally, I will talk about some of my thoughts. This part only represents my personal opinion. If you don’t want to look at it, you don’t need to read it down. If you don’t agree with my point of view, don’t tag me.*

The biggest selling point of this projector is undoubtedly the ultra-wide color gamut brought by the three-color laser. But for watching movies, I haven't seen any use for the time being. It is almost impossible for such pure colors to exist in nature. Most of the color monitors in film and television post-production are also in the P3 color gamut, so I think the 2020 color gamut is really useless at this stage. A good two-color laser or three-color LED can reach or close to the P3 color gamut, and even a well-made light bulb machine, such as the N series of JVC, can reach 90-95% without a filter. The P3 color gamut is more than enough for watching HDR movies. In pursuit of the 2020 color gamut, which is almost useless, the use of three-color lasers instead brings about laser speckles visible to the naked eye. To solve laser speckle, either a 6P laser, that is, a laser with two wavelengths for each color of RGB, or a beater, is used to reduce laser interference. The 6P laser is now really expensive.

Secondly, although the contrast of this projection is very good in DLP, the on/off and low ADL area on-screen contrast is still 100 times lower than my JVC projection. Of course, there will not be a 100-fold difference in actual perception, because the sensitivity of the human eye to the indicators of brightness and contrast is not a linear relationship, but an exponential relationship. Reflected in the actual picture, especially in darker scenes, the contrast of this LSP9T is still too low and the black level is too poor. And I also mentioned in the above test, because the contrast is not high enough, the EOTF must be raised in the dark part to show the details of the dark part. Also because the contrast is not high enough, the color gamut and saturation of the dark parts are also seriously shrunk. These factors will cause the dark scene picture to be gray.

This projector is positioned to replace the TV, so in an imperfect black hole environment, the picture quality will be severely reduced, and the use of an ultra-short throw anti-light screen will slightly improve, but it is just drinking a dove to quench thirst. So if you want to pursue high image quality, this kind of ultra-short throw projection is best placed in a black hole environment as much as possible with the white screen. If you want to use it as a laser TV in the living room environment, you can only accept the severely degraded picture quality.

Regarding the statement that the perceived brightness of the new light source is higher than that of the traditional light bulb with the same brightness, I’m sorry, I really didn’t feel it. I put this three-color laser machine and another light bulb machine on the same screen and adjusted them to the same measured brightness, there is no difference in brightness when viewed with naked eyes. For those who say that the perceived brightness of the new light source is higher than that of the traditional bulb, please make sure that the brightness of the actual measured brightnrss is the same before comparing, instead of just looking at the manufacturer's claimed brightness.


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## ACE844

Jue Liang said:


> Yes, sorry I forgot that you have to register to see the pics.
> 
> So I copied and pasted the google translated texts and uploaded the pics here:


Thank you for sharing your results. As a projector neophyte, I have a few questions. Several EU reviewers who have gotten quite in-depth with the light source and spectroscopy testing ( you may have seen the links/posts in this thread and also the review thread) have opined that the basic colorimetry devices are not sensitive and or narrow enough to accurately assess and calibrate the "pure" lasers. One of them demonstrated there is perhaps 2 close (within 5nm blue and red lasers) working in concert.

Does this match your own findings?
What are your thoughts on the lack of fine resolution of colorimeter instruments affecting calibration and o you think that it affected your measurements as evidenced by the high delta E some other color space variants which matched what a french reviewer found when using low-resolution spectroscopy/colorimeter?
What is your advice for general "best" picture settings to bring more accuracy to this device beyond their commendation of a 35 contrast setting above?
Do you have any other related thoughts?
Based on some of what you wrote you almost seem to be "unimpressed" with the device, and it's performance, is this the case?
I saw some earlier posts where you did a macro [piece on the 100L9 pro, have you had a chance to look at that machine closely?
What are your thoughts on its objective measures and performance in a side by side comparison to the LSP9T?
What your impressions of the viewing performance of the 100L9 pro and how would you compare it to what you saw with this machine?


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## Jue Liang

ACE844 said:


> Thank you for sharing your results. As a projector neophyte, I have a few questions. Several EU reviewers who have gotten quite in-depth with the light source and spectroscopy testing ( you may have seen the links/posts in this thread and also the review thread) have opined that the basic colorimetry devices are not sensitive and or narrow enough to accurately assess and calibrate the "pure" lasers. One of them demonstrated there is perhaps 2 close (within 5nm blue and red lasers) working in concert.
> 
> Does this match your own findings?
> What are your thoughts on the lack of fine resolution of colorimeter instruments affecting calibration and o you think that it affected your measurements as evidenced by the high delta E some other color space variants which matched what a french reviewer found when using low-resolution spectroscopy/colorimeter?
> What is your advice for general "best" picture settings to bring more accuracy to this device beyond their commendation of a 35 contrast setting above?
> Do you have any other related thoughts?
> Based on some of what you wrote you almost seem to be "unimpressed" with the device, and it's performance, is this the case?


I have tried a few different meters, they are pretty close to each other when I profiling other displays, but they did show larger difference when profiling the LSP9T. So I compared the actual picture to my well calibrated lamp-based projector side by side, and picked the meter that reads closest to what I saw with my eyes. But as I stated above, the color accuraty of default filmmaker mode is not too bad. With some simple manual tweak of the 2-point white balance adjustment, at least the gray scale and gamma can be close to the reference level.

I won't say I am impressed or not because I don't want to start a war here. All I can say is I plan to use it in my bedroom to watch youtube and po*nh*b 

I don’t know where you got the information, but I have never seen 100L9.


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## Tophe_fr

Thank you for this very complete review !
Could you please post the color and white balance adjustement u did in both rec 709 and 2020 so we can have a good starting point to calibrate our LSP9T ?
Wich color temp do you use in both SDR and HDR mode, you keep filmmaker standard ?


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## Mikenificent1

[


Jue Liang said:


> I have tried a few different meters, they are pretty close to each other when I profiling other displays, but they did show larger difference when profiling the LSP9T. So I compared the actual picture to my well calibrated lamp-based projector side by side, and picked the meter that reads closest to what I saw with my eyes. But as I stated above, the color accuraty of default filmmaker mode is not too bad. With some simple manual tweak of the 2-point white balance adjustment, at least the gray scale and gamma can be close to the reference level.
> 
> I won't say I am impressed or not because I don't want to start a war here. All I can say is I plan to use it in my bedroom to watch youtube and po*nh*b
> 
> I don’t know where you got the information, but I have never seen 100L9.


‘Amazing review. Thank you. In addition to static on/off contrast, are you able to measure dynamic contrast? I ask because you seem to prefer filmmaker and movie modes, but in another review, it was mentioned that dynamic black is not really engaged in those modes. So for best black levels and contrast, it sounds like it would be best to try the standard preset. You might not be able to get as accurate color, but it might be a more impressive picture overall if that’s the case.

Did you try putting a piece of velvet on top of the projector?

Initially you mentioned here that you would be testing on a Studiotek 130 G4, in your review you mentioned Studiotek 100. Did you switch materials recently?

I have a Studiotek 100. I can live with most of the flaws you mentioned with the LSP9T, but if you were really using an ST100, and the picture looked worse than the sparklies on a gain screen, that’s really bad for me lol. Is it only on solid color images, or white as well?


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## bennutt

Jue Liang said:


> All I can say is I plan to use it in my bedroom to watch youtube and po*nh*b
> 
> .


After reading one of the most detailed reviews on this projector I have ever seen... legit laugh out loud when I reached this summary. Awesome posts.


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## newtophoto

Jue Liang said:


> *The above are all objective statements of testing and training. Finally, I will talk about some of my thoughts. This part only represents my personal opinion. If you don’t want to look at it, you don’t need to read it down. If you don’t agree with my point of view, don’t tag me.*
> 
> The biggest selling point of this projector is undoubtedly the ultra-wide color gamut brought by the three-color laser. But for watching movies, I haven't seen any use for the time being. It is almost impossible for such pure colors to exist in nature. Most of the color monitors in film and television post-production are also in the P3 color gamut, so I think the 2020 color gamut is really useless at this stage. A good two-color laser or three-color LED can reach or close to the P3 color gamut, and even a well-made light bulb machine, such as the N series of JVC, can reach 90-95% without a filter. The P3 color gamut is more than enough for watching HDR movies. In pursuit of the 2020 color gamut, which is almost useless, the use of three-color lasers instead brings about laser speckles visible to the naked eye. To solve laser speckle, either a 6P laser, that is, a laser with two wavelengths for each color of RGB, or a beater, is used to reduce laser interference. The 6P laser is now really expensive.
> 
> Secondly, although the contrast of this projection is very good in DLP, the on/off and low ADL area on-screen contrast is still 100 times lower than my JVC projection. Of course, there will not be a 100-fold difference in actual perception, because the sensitivity of the human eye to the indicators of brightness and contrast is not a linear relationship, but an exponential relationship. Reflected in the actual picture, especially in darker scenes, the contrast of this LSP9T is still too low and the black level is too poor. And I also mentioned in the above test, because the contrast is not high enough, the EOTF must be raised in the dark part to show the details of the dark part. Also because the contrast is not high enough, the color gamut and saturation of the dark parts are also seriously shrunk. These factors will cause the dark scene picture to be gray.
> 
> This projector is positioned to replace the TV, so in an imperfect black hole environment, the picture quality will be severely reduced, and the use of an ultra-short throw anti-light screen will slightly improve, but it is just drinking a dove to quench thirst. So if you want to pursue high image quality, this kind of ultra-short throw projection is best placed in a black hole environment as much as possible with the white screen. If you want to use it as a laser TV in the living room environment, you can only accept the severely degraded picture quality.
> 
> Regarding the statement that the perceived brightness of the new light source is higher than that of the traditional light bulb with the same brightness, I’m sorry, I really didn’t feel it. I put this three-color laser machine and another light bulb machine on the same screen and adjusted them to the same measured brightness, there is no difference in brightness when viewed with naked eyes. For those who say that the perceived brightness of the new light source is higher than that of the traditional bulb, please make sure that the brightness of the actual measured brightnrss is the same before comparing, instead of just looking at the manufacturer's claimed brightness.


so you wouldn't recommend this projector in a brightly lit living room?


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## Vzx

I’m seriously considering returning this for the LGHU85 la. The CA is something that is annoying. I have noticed that wearing high glasses makes (for myopia) makes the RBE and CA worse. I personally put on some contacts and the RBE decreased by a factor of 90% even the CA looked better. 

Not sure if the LG will have a similar issue but I can’t justify the $2500 premium of the Samsung now (with a price drop on the LG). I may miss some of the new specs but I primarily connect with the Apple TV and stream my content. 

I saw that the throw ratio of both lg and Samsung is the same but LG requires a screen offset of 16 inches compared to Samsung with 9 inches. Can someone who has switched to the LG confirm? I may have to buy a lower stand or raise my screen if I switch to LG


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## flam3of4nor

bennutt said:


> I’m happy to throw any edits you like on the front, I’d give you ownership if I could, I switched to the LG anyway.
> 
> I have an ALR screen, have not compared to a standard white screen, but I CAN tell you the chances of your wall being straight enough or flaw free is slim to none. Every possible bump will show up in the geometry. That is true for any UST.
> 
> I’m happy with everything now with the exception of fan noise (LG is louder than Samsung) and difficult center channel placement in my room. I can either put it on the floor or “awkwardly forward”
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Can you say something about the brightness (with ok colors) of the LG vs the samsung. I currently still use a LG HU80 and in the highest brightness mode (with natural color temperature set) its completely yellow/green. If you then bring the colors to a normal level (not even talking about a full calibration) it looses a lot of light. In several reviews I read they say that the LG HU85 also looses quite a bit whereas the Samsung can stay at around 2600 ANSI Lumens? Since light output is quite important for me this would be a very interesting information.


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## flam3of4nor

Jue Liang said:


> Again, this is tranlated by google, so there might be some mis-translation. But I don't want to spend days to re-write it in English.
> 
> 2nd part:
> 
> *The following is the manual calibration part.*
> 
> After manual calibration through the built-in color adjustment of the projection, I can adjust the basic data of white balance, gamma, and color gamut vertices to a good level. The following are some basic data after manual calibration in 709 and 2020 color gamut modes.
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> 
> But scanning the 10-point saturation of six colors again , you can still find more problems. In the 709 mode, the red and blue after manual calibration shift to magenta, and the yellow and cyan shift to green. After manual calibration in 2020 mode, magenta shifts to red, green shifts to cyan, yellow shifts to green, etc.
> 
> View attachment 3086577
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> View attachment 3086581
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> 
> Let's come to the more stringent 17^3 5000 points detection. The 5000 points after manual calibration in the 709 and 2020 modes can be seen whether it is a two-dimensional CIE map or a three-dimensional color space. Drag a long "tail", this tail is the direction and size of the color error.
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> 
> So although the grayscale, gamma, and color gamut are done through basic manual calibration, these are just some of the most apex and center point data in the entire color space. If you want to calibrate all the points in the entire color space, you need to rely on 3DLut. .
> 
> *The following is an advanced version of calibration :* use Lumagen radiance pro for Test pattern generator and Lut box, and use colourspace for profile and 3D Lut calculation calibration. Of course, the hardware cost and learning threshold of such adjustments are not low.
> 
> Look at the 709 mode first . After calibration, the two-dimensional six-color 10-point saturation scan is basically perfect. In the 10^3 thousand-point test, the dense “tails” basically disappeared, and the average DE dropped from 4.27 to 1.3. It's still not perfect, but because the 3D Lut algorithm I chose before is to give priority to color brightness, the brightness after calibration did not drop.
> 
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> 
> The final result of the 2020 color gamut mode is as follows, which is similar to the calibration of the 709 color gamut mode. Delta E dropped from 5.92 before calibration to 1.78. The most important thing is that the dense chromatic aberration tails have basically disappeared, and the brightness has not changed after calibration. After tuning, I can achieve this level under the rigorous test of 5000 points in the 2020 color gamut. I am quite satisfied.
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> 
> The main problem after 3D Lut calibration is that the color brightness of some edges and vertices in the three-dimensional space is slightly lower, but not too many. In addition, most points in the space are relatively accurate. I put the Delta E distribution before calibration, after manual calibration, and after 3DLut calibration in the same graph, and I can clearly see that each step of calibration effectively reduces the color difference.
> View attachment 3086602
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> 
> *Let me talk about another problem I recently discovered: the dark color gamut has shrunk seriously. *The color gamut and saturation are measured at the brightest part of the color, but the color space is actually three-dimensional. There are many dark parts in the actual movie. I think it is also necessary to test the dark part color gamut. From the three-dimensional color space of this projection, it can be seen that the saturation of the three primary colors in the dark part is seriously low, and the color gamut is greatly reduced. Below I list the 709 and 2020 color gamut test results at 1%, 2%, 3%, 5%, 10%, 15%, and 20% brightness respectively.
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> 
> It can be seen that the color gamut is almost very small at 1-3%, almost no color, only gray. In 709 mode, it takes more than 15% brightness to return to the normal color gamut range. In 2020 mode, 20% brightness is required to restore the full 2020 color gamut. This defect is related to the contrast of this machine is not high enough. Although it is good in DLP, it is still not good enough. The dark part is gray and the saturation of the dark part is seriously shrunk. This phenomenon occurs on all devices with insufficient contrast. For example, I found similar problems on my LCD TV with more than 5,000 contrast and monitors with more than 1,000 contrast.
> 
> 
> 
> *Below is the contrast test data.*
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> 
> First of all, in a black hole environment, the on/off contrast of this LSP9T far exceeds my expectations. The contrast ratio of more than 2000 is twice as high as that of UHZ65. There are even some environments and improperly debugged 3DLP that can’t reach it. This level. The intra-frame (same screen) contrast of 0-10% ADL (frame average brightness) is higher than most DLP. I don't know how Samsung does this. And I have said here many times before, most of the scenes of the movie are mainly concentrated within 0-10% ADL, and the lower the average frame brightness, the higher the sensitivity of the human eye to the contrast. The popular point is the dark scene. The contrast difference is more obvious, I think this is easy to understand. Therefore, the contrast of this projector in most movie scenes can be regarded as the top level in DLP projection.
> 
> The contrast of 50% ADL (that is, ANSI contrast) is relatively low. And I can confirm that the bottleneck is not the light absorption of the room, because the contrast measured with my other projector in this room is much higher than this number. The reason for the lower ANSI contrast of this projector is mainly the light reflection of the internal light path and lens of the machine, as well as the light reflection of the white body. This can be seen from the three screen shots posted below the figures. The white bright objects are on the black background. There is an obvious "tail" dragged down, which extends to the bottom of the middle of the picture. But as I have said many times before, although ANSI contrast is widely used, there are almost no scenes as bright as 50% ADL in movies, so ANSI contrast has little effect on actual movies. More important is the intra-frame contrast of 0-10%, especially 0-5% ADL.
> 
> Let's look at the test results of moving this projector to the bedroom. I am in the post "Creating a Real Black Hole" ( http://www.hd199.com/thread-1894068-1-1.html) As mentioned, the reflection of the light-colored surface of the room mainly affects the on-screen contrast of the high ADL part. The lower the ADL, the smaller the impact of the reflection, and it has no effect on on/off. This is also easy to understand. So although ANSI contrast has little effect on the actual movie, it is a good standard to measure the degree of light absorption in a room. In a bedroom with no lights and no sunlight and some dark curtains and furniture (I think the room conditions can basically represent the "little black room" in the homes of most fans on the forum), the on/off contrast of LSP9T is not affected , As the ADL becomes higher, the gap between the contrast and the real black hole environment becomes larger. After 1% ADL, it has been twice as bad as the contrast in a true black hole environment, and it is several times lower than 50% ADL. It can also be seen from the test data that the influence of the reflection on the inside and surface of this machine is far less than the influence of the reflection on the light-colored surface of the room, so if there is no real black hole environment like mine at home, I don’t really need to care about this machine too much. Reflective defects. This kind of ultra-short throw projection is not originally a product for the black hole environment.
> 
> In the end, I turned on a lamp and tested it. It was terrible. As expected, the projection was dead. The main factor that affects contrast under this condition is other light sources (light or sunlight).
> 
> *This is what I have said countless times on HD199, playing with projection, the first shading, the second absorbing light.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few words about the lens, sharpness and resolution.*
> 
> From what I can see with the naked eye, the structure of an ultra-short focal lens and a telephoto projection lens is completely different. As for what kind of design it is, I don't know. What I can see from the screen is that the focus of this lens is very good, and there is not much difference in focus between the center of the screen and the surroundings. There are two shortcomings of this lens, one is the reflection I mentioned in the contrast test above. Second, color aberration can be seen at the edge of the light-dark junction. More than two or three meters away from the screen is not very good.
> 
> The sharpness of this projector is very good. I don’t know if it’s close to the screen or because of the three-color laser or other reasons. This machine is even better than my previous telephoto laser 4KDLP LK970 with a top glass lens. Even sharper. Although under the most stringent resolution test, it can be seen that it is not true 4k, but it’s not visible when watching a movie normally, and it’s very sharp subjectively.
> 
> 
> *Let's talk about other things.*
> 
> rainbow! rainbow! rainbow! This three-color laser projection still has a very obvious rainbow! But it is not as serious as the rainbow of my last monochrome laser DLP. I originally thought that as long as there was no color wheel, there would be no rainbow, but I later found out that this is not the case. Whether there is a rainbow or not essentially depends on whether the color refresh rate is fast enough, and the ability of everyone's eyes to capture this fastflash. The US Air Force Flight Academy's research report stated that it is necessary to reach above 900hz to prevent pilots from seeing the rainbow. For ordinary people, this standard may be lower. It seems that the refresh rate of a color wheel such as RGBW is generally 150hz, and the six-color wheel can reach 300hz. There are also many people who report that the X12000 tri-color LED also has rainbows. I don't know how high the refresh rate of Samsung's tri-color laser is. I hope they can speed up the refresh rate through later firmware updates to solve this problem.
> Whether it can be accepted varies from person to person. Even many people think that the rainbow on the four-color wheel DLP is acceptable or invisible. And every time my wife and son see this three-color laser DLP with a lot of rainbows, they complain about so many rainbows. You must know that they are usually not sensitive to things like picture quality and sound quality. A friend of mine took a look and said that the rainbow made him dizzy. He didn't know what a rainbow was before, and I didn't tell him what rainbow to see.
> 
> Laser speckle is also quite obvious, especially the brighter solid color part, which can be seen even when sitting three meters away. It looks like a more serious sparkling of a high-gain curtain, and this kind of speckle is almost impossible to take a photo.
> 
> 
> Below are some thoughts in the system menus and design.
> 
> The settings of this projection are quite weird, and in some places it seems very amateurish. For example, there is no option to adjust the brightness of the light output. It can only be adjusted through the contrast setting in the menu. The contrast in this projector is set at about 45 (maximum 50) to achieve the maximum brightness of 100IRE, below 45 will reduce the brightness of 100IRE, and higher than 45 will reduce the whiteclipping point. And the brightness option in the common menu (this brightness is not the other brightness, here is the black point clipping) is not provided, but it provides an option to enhance the details of the dark parts.
> 
> Some settings are very professional. For example, it provides 10-point grayscale. For example, the color adjustment part is directly adjusted through the RGB system, which is very rare in civilian display equipment, instead of the common HSB (hue, saturation, brightness) system. After all, current display devices are all RGB color rendering. Adjusting the color of RGB display devices through HSB is a more indirect but more in line with the human eye observation habits. Adjusting the RGB system can more directly manage the RGB color mixing of the display device, but common color detection software provides CIExy or uv scales close to the HSB system, so adjusting RGB requires the debugger to be familiar with RGB color space and HSB or The conversion relationship of CIExyY color space.
> 
> This projector comes with the smart system of Samsung TV, so you can directly open common streaming media apps. But in the interface of streaming media apps, color management doesn't seem to work. The colors in the 709 color gamut of those menu interfaces-including the video preview interface-will be extended to the native color gamut of the machine. Because of the abnormal native 2020 color gamut coverage of this projection, the image that extends the 709 color gamut to the 2020 color gamut looks very disgusting. In addition, when switching between videos of different color gamuts, it often appears that the color mode is not automatically converted, and you need to manually switch back and forth several times in the color mode.
> 
> There is also a very unprofessional design. This ultra-short throw projector only has a white body. This type of ultra-short throw projection is basically directly under the screen, and the reflection of the white body on the screen seriously affects the contrast of the same screen. For use in environments like the living room, the reflection of the white wall is much greater than the reflection of the white body, so the reflection of the body can be ignored. But if you want to put it in a perfect light-absorbing environment, the reflection of the white body is very obvious.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The above are all objective statements of testing and training. Finally, I will talk about some of my thoughts. This part only represents my personal opinion. If you don’t want to look at it, you don’t need to read it down. If you don’t agree with my point of view, don’t tag me.*
> 
> The biggest selling point of this projector is undoubtedly the ultra-wide color gamut brought by the three-color laser. But for watching movies, I haven't seen any use for the time being. It is almost impossible for such pure colors to exist in nature. Most of the color monitors in film and television post-production are also in the P3 color gamut, so I think the 2020 color gamut is really useless at this stage. A good two-color laser or three-color LED can reach or close to the P3 color gamut, and even a well-made light bulb machine, such as the N series of JVC, can reach 90-95% without a filter. The P3 color gamut is more than enough for watching HDR movies. In pursuit of the 2020 color gamut, which is almost useless, the use of three-color lasers instead brings about laser speckles visible to the naked eye. To solve laser speckle, either a 6P laser, that is, a laser with two wavelengths for each color of RGB, or a beater, is used to reduce laser interference. The 6P laser is now really expensive.
> 
> Secondly, although the contrast of this projection is very good in DLP, the on/off and low ADL area on-screen contrast is still 100 times lower than my JVC projection. Of course, there will not be a 100-fold difference in actual perception, because the sensitivity of the human eye to the indicators of brightness and contrast is not a linear relationship, but an exponential relationship. Reflected in the actual picture, especially in darker scenes, the contrast of this LSP9T is still too low and the black level is too poor. And I also mentioned in the above test, because the contrast is not high enough, the EOTF must be raised in the dark part to show the details of the dark part. Also because the contrast is not high enough, the color gamut and saturation of the dark parts are also seriously shrunk. These factors will cause the dark scene picture to be gray.
> 
> This projector is positioned to replace the TV, so in an imperfect black hole environment, the picture quality will be severely reduced, and the use of an ultra-short throw anti-light screen will slightly improve, but it is just drinking a dove to quench thirst. So if you want to pursue high image quality, this kind of ultra-short throw projection is best placed in a black hole environment as much as possible with the white screen. If you want to use it as a laser TV in the living room environment, you can only accept the severely degraded picture quality.
> 
> Regarding the statement that the perceived brightness of the new light source is higher than that of the traditional light bulb with the same brightness, I’m sorry, I really didn’t feel it. I put this three-color laser machine and another light bulb machine on the same screen and adjusted them to the same measured brightness, there is no difference in brightness when viewed with naked eyes. For those who say that the perceived brightness of the new light source is higher than that of the traditional bulb, please make sure that the brightness of the actual measured brightnrss is the same before comparing, instead of just looking at the manufacturer's claimed brightness.


I do not get your table of the contrast fully. So the ADL50 is the Ansi Contrast (what is usually measured with a chessboard like black and white structure)? What you say is that the Samsung has a 90:1 contrast here? That would be worst of all DLP projectors ever tested. Several Tests I saw were around 400:1 (what is a typical value for a 0,66" DMD DLP). Are you sure you measured right, or did I just not get your table. The strength of a DLP is exactly that ANSI contrast... also in comparison to SXRDs.


----------



## bennutt

Vzx said:


> I’m seriously considering returning this for the LGHU85 la. The CA is something that is annoying. I have noticed that wearing high glasses makes (for myopia) makes the RBE and CA worse. I personally put on some contacts and the RBE decreased by a factor of 90% even the CA looked better.
> 
> Not sure if the LG will have a similar issue but I can’t justify the $2500 premium of the Samsung now (with a price drop on the LG). I may miss some of the new specs but I primarily connect with the Apple TV and stream my content.
> 
> I saw that the throw ratio of both lg and Samsung is the same but LG requires a screen offset of 16 inches compared to Samsung with 9 inches. Can someone who has switched to the LG confirm? I may have to buy a lower stand or raise my screen if I switch to LG


When I replaced the samsung, I didn’t move my screen at all, but had to add a 3/4 inch piece of wood under the LG to line it up on the same shelf.

Hope that helps.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rigidz

I have received my projector and started using it. As everyone stated, CA is there and visible in still pictures , especially on youtube channel titles which are in white color, other than this, everything else looks good. Compared to my previous projectors, original Xiaomi 1080p followed by VAVA, I would say this projector is awesome awesome.


----------



## Jue Liang

Tophe_fr said:


> Thank you for this very complete review !
> Could you please post the color and white balance adjustement u did in both rec 709 and 2020 so we can have a good starting point to calibrate our LSP9T ?
> Wich color temp do you use in both SDR and HDR mode, you keep filmmaker standard ?


My settings:
Contrast=35, color temp=warm 2
2 point adjustment R gain= -12, G gain=1, B gain=7, R offset=0, G offset=0, B offset=-3

But please keep in mind that the calibration settings depends on a lot things like sample variation and screen type. My settings may not be the best for your set up.



Mikenificent1 said:


> ‘Amazing review. Thank you. In addition to static on/off contrast, are you able to measure dynamic contrast? I ask because you seem to prefer filmmaker and movie modes, but in another review, it was mentioned that dynamic black is not really engaged in those modes. So for best black levels and contrast, it sounds like it would be best to try the standard preset. You might not be able to get as accurate color, but it might be a more impressive picture overall if that’s the case.
> 
> Did you try putting a piece of velvet on top of the projector?
> 
> Initially you mentioned here that you would be testing on a Studiotek 130 G4, in your review you mentioned Studiotek 100. Did you switch materials recently?
> 
> I have a Studiotek 100. I can live with most of the flaws you mentioned with the LSP9T, but if you were really using an ST100, and the picture looked worse than the sparklies on a gain screen, that’s really bad for me lol. Is it only on solid color images, or white as well?


The black level I measured in dynamic mode is not lower than that in filmmaker mode, and this is what I see with my eyes as well. The higher contrast I measured with Dynamic and standard modes were due to the increased peak brightness at the sacrifice of color and gamma accuracy.

Yes, I did try to put a piece of velvet on the surface, it helped.

I attached a piece of ST100 sample on the ST130 screen and took the measurements on it, that's why I said "taken on ST100 material". Actually I compared the reading from ST130G4 and ST100, the readings are very close with the UST projector right below the screen, I also tried to look at the ST100 sample on the ST130G4 screen with my eyes, they looked almost identical. So looks like at extreme angles, ST130G4 is very similar to a ST100. Anyway, I still decided to take my readings on the ST100 sample.

To be honest, the speckle is far less bothering than the RBE to me. But again, this largely depends on how sensitive you are to either of these two types of artifacts.



newtophoto said:


> so you wouldn't recommend this projector in a brightly lit living room?


Sorry, I don't want to make any recommedations. I can only speak for myself, I won't use any projector in a bright room.



flam3of4nor said:


> I do not get your table of the contrast fully. So the ADL50 is the Ansi Contrast (what is usually measured with a chessboard like black and white structure)? What you say is that the Samsung has a 90:1 contrast here? That would be worst of all DLP projectors ever tested. Several Tests I saw were around 400:1 (what is a typical value for a 0,66" DMD DLP). Are you sure you measured right, or did I just not get your table. The strength of a DLP is exactly that ANSI contrast... also in comparison to SXRDs.


If you keep reading that post, you would see the reason for the low ANSI. It is due to the light reflection in the light path and the lens, as well as the white surface of the projector, as I showed in the screen shots, the light tails following bright objects. I also explained it in that post, although it was translated by google. My other projectors, DLP and LCOS, all measured much higher ANSI in the same room than the LSP9T.


----------



## flam3of4nor

Jue Liang said:


> My settings:
> Contrast=35, color temp=warm 2
> 2 point adjustment R gain= -12, G gain=1, B gain=7, R offset=0, G offset=0, B offset=-3
> 
> But please keep in mind that the calibration settings depends on a lot things like sample variation and screen type. My settings may not be the best for your set up.
> 
> 
> The black level I measured in dynamic mode is not lower than that in filmmaker mode, and this is what I see with my eyes as well. The higher contrast I measured with Dynamic and standard modes were due to the increased peak brightness at the sacrifice of color and gamma accuracy.
> 
> Yes, I did try to put a piece of velvet on the surface, it helped.
> 
> I attached a piece of ST100 sample on the ST130 screen and took the measurements on it, that's why I said "taken on ST100 material". Actually I compared the reading from ST130G4 and ST100, the readings are very close with the UST projector right below the screen, I also tried to look at the ST100 sample on the ST130G4 screen with my eyes, they looked almost identical. So looks like at extreme angles, ST130G4 is very similar to a ST100. Anyway, I still decided to take my readings on the ST100 sample.
> 
> To be honest, the speckle is far less bothering than the RBE to me. But again, this largely depends on how sensitive you are to either of these two types of artifacts.
> 
> 
> Sorry, I don't want to make any recommedations. I can only speak for myself, I won't use any projector in a bright room.
> 
> 
> If you keep reading that post, you would see the reason for the low ANSI. It is due to the light reflection in the light path and the lens, as well as the white surface of the projector, as I showed in the screen shots, the light tails following bright objects. I also explained it in that post, although it was translated by google. My other projectors, DLP and LCOS, all measured much higher ANSI in the same room than the LSP9T.


I read your full post and also that it is due to the light reflections and so on but all other testers had those most probably as well unless they had a black lsp9t , but still measured 400:1. Thats why I wanted to understand what you did. Just curious why all magazines and people measure 400:1 and you measure such an extremely low value. The difference is much more than just a bit of deviation of different test setups.

here is what I mean. That is from our biggest German magazine for example and they usually test right:










At „Kontrast“ You can see the measurement. The On/Off is almost exactly what you measure but the Ansi is quite different.


----------



## Tophe_fr

Jue Liang said:


> My settings:
> Contrast=35, color temp=warm 2
> 2 point adjustment R gain= -12, G gain=1, B gain=7, R offset=0, G offset=0, B offset=-3
> 
> But please keep in mind that the calibration settings depends on a lot things like sample variation and screen type. My settings may not be the best for your set up.


Thank you.
I know it's not universal settings but it's a good point to start.
Me i prefer natural colors over warm that i found to much red and, well, not natural


----------



## rigidz

Tophe_fr said:


> Thank you.
> I know it's not universal settings but it's a good point to start.
> Me i prefer natural colors over warm that i found to much red and, well, not natural


Are you using native apps or External player like Apple TV/Nvidia? Do you see the colors the way they are supposed to be ? 
In my case, as everybody complained, I see laser red color in native apps and a little less when using Apple TV. Someone in this forum has stated that they see more natural colors with Nvidia shield with Auto color space settings.


----------



## Tophe_fr

I use a shield 2019 with kodi, Netflix, Amazon, Disney+ and Molotov TV.
I tried same applications on the lsp9t (except kodi) and with same settings I can't see any difference. Only the colours of the lsp9t interface are not well mapped. It's like displaying SD colours in Rec 2020 mode.
Am using the lsp9t in a bat cave and only the dark scenes are not that good, missing colours and black details.
But overall am very satisfied of this UST. Only seeing rbe sometimes, but less and less.


----------



## rigidz

Tophe_fr said:


> I use a shield 2019 with kodi, Netflix, Amazon, Disney+ and Molotov TV.
> I tried same applications on the lsp9t (except kodi) and with same settings I can't see any difference. Only the colours of the lsp9t interface are not well mapped. It's like displaying SD colours in Rec 2020 mode.
> Am using the lsp9t in a bat cave and only the dark scenes are not that good, missing colours and black details.
> But overall am very satisfied of this UST. Only seeing rbe sometimes, but less and less.


Thank you for your reply. Do you mind sharing your settings please, I'll try them as is and see wether it improves my situation. 

I use white screen, in a light controlled environment. of-course , mine is not a bat cave.


----------



## Mike Garrett

Jue Liang said:


> I have tried a few different meters, they are pretty close to each other when I profiling other displays, but they did show larger difference when profiling the LSP9T. So I compared the actual picture to my well calibrated lamp-based projector side by side, and picked the meter that reads closest to what I saw with my eyes. But as I stated above, the color accuraty of default filmmaker mode is not too bad. With some simple manual tweak of the 2-point white balance adjustment, at least the gray scale and gamma can be close to the reference level.
> 
> I won't say I am impressed or not because I don't want to start a war here. *All I can say is I plan to use it in my bedroom to watch youtube and po*nh*b *
> 
> I don’t know where you got the information, but I have never seen 100L9.


You will need to be sure and get good skin tone colors.


----------



## Aztar35

Jue Liang said:


> I have tried a few different meters, they are pretty close to each other when I profiling other displays, but they did show larger difference when profiling the LSP9T.


Thanks so much for your efforts and sharing with us your review of the LSP9T. A while back, I had a demo sample of the projector for a bit. And I just wanted to ask you about the ANSI contrast measurement of 92. Did you measure ANSI at least a few times before calibration to get the reading? I don't know of a projector that measures that low in a good room; even the JVC D-ILA projectors don't measure their ANSI contrast that low. And that measurement is not consistent with my experience with the LSP9T or with what other reviewers have found.

Also re RBE, assuming owners have their updates option turned on, I'm wondering whether the latest FW improves laser cycling through the chip to reduce RBE?


----------



## JereyWolf

Aztar35 said:


> Also re RBE, assuming owners have their updates option turned on, I'm wondering whether the latest FW improves laser cycling through the chip to reduce RBE?


I'll check this out tonight! 

Has anyone found descriptions for the updates?


----------



## rigidz

Tophe_fr said:


> Thank you.
> I know it's not universal settings but it's a good point to start.
> Me i prefer natural colors over warm that i found to much red and, well, not natural


I agree with Tophe_fr. Really these settings are a good starting point. I have used as is and that laser red is almost gone for me. Thank you again.


----------



## Holle23

Ich möchte den Projektor hauptsächlich für Filme und Serien verwenden. Aber auch Fußball und Tennis. Hat jemand Erfahrung, ob die fehlende Interframe-Berechnung in UHD zu ruckartigen Bildern in Fußball und Tennis führt?


----------



## Holle23

I would like to use the projector mainly for films and series. But also football and tennis. Does anyone have any experience as to whether the missing interframe calculation in UHD leads to jerky images in soccer and tennis?


----------



## Tophe_fr

rigidz said:


> Thank you for your reply. Do you mind sharing your settings please, I'll try them as is and see wether it improves my situation.
> 
> I use white screen, in a light controlled environment. of-course , mine is not a bat cave.


Totally black room :
Image mode : cinéma
Contrast : 40
Contrast enhancement : high
Color temp : Standard
ST.2084 : -2
Shadow detail : 2


----------



## flam3of4nor

Holle23 said:


> I would like to use the projector mainly for films and series. But also football and tennis. Does anyone have any experience as to whether the missing interframe calculation in UHD leads to jerky images in soccer and tennis?


Another user told me it has also interframe calculation (motionflow) at UHD. Not sure if its true.


----------



## JereyWolf

Aztar35 said:


> Also re RBE, assuming owners have their updates option turned on, I'm wondering whether the latest FW improves laser cycling through the chip to reduce RBE?


I had to do the update over USB again.

....I think this firmware update may have removed RBE for me. There's a few ways that I can reliably force myself to see RBE every time, those involve moving something that I can intermittently see through, between my eyes and the screen. Example; waving an open palm with fingers spread apart in front of my face, side to side. After installing the update...I'm not seeing any RBE. I've spent the last 20 minutes trying to find it. I'm using very dark scenes with highlights. I've turned off my bias lighting and made sure my room is very dark. I'm not seeing it.

RBE is probably the biggest factor for me still being on the fence of whether I want to send this projector back to Samsung within my 100 day trial, I have until March 5th. When I first got the projector in November, the RBE was very apparent to me and was very distracting. After installing bias lighting there was a significant reduction in the amount that I was noticing RBE and after awhile I just seem to notice less and less....but it was still there occasionally. Last week I ordered an LG HU85LA, because I want to see if that model addresses the things I don't like about the LSP9T. RBE may have just been removed from my list of annoyances...I'll have to give it some more though to make sure it's gone.


*Edit*
I'm still seeing some small flashes of RBE.


----------



## rigidz

I have updated the latest firmware using the USB method. I couldn't find the release notes; however, here are my observations.


 Those crazy red colors are gone now ( In all default settings, of course, you might still see in the interface. However, the video doesn't look saturated red anymore).
 RGB Laser speckles /Chromatic aberration is not noticeable to my eyes anymore. 
Google voice assistant is now an option under the voice setting.
Settings interface colors look similar to my other Samsung tv. 
I will update more after testing.

The update notifies the user that it has been updated to Ver 1470.3 along with the details section. In a hurry, I have forgotten to see what that section might show. If anyone is updating with the USB method, please try to capture the update details section.


----------



## JereyWolf

rigidz said:


> The update notifies the user that it has been updated to Ver 1470.3 along with the details section. In a hurry, I have forgotten to see what that section might show. If anyone is updating with the USB method, please try to capture the update details section.


The details were basically just ”updated to new version".


----------



## Mikenificent1

rigidz said:


> I have updated the latest firmware using the USB method. I couldn't find the release notes; however, here are my observations.
> 
> 
> Those crazy red colors are gone now ( In all default settings, of course, you might still see in the interface. However, the video doesn't look saturated red anymore).
> RGB Laser speckles /Chromatic aberration is not noticeable to my eyes anymore.
> Google voice assistant is now an option under the voice setting.
> Settings interface colors look similar to my other Samsung tv.
> I will update more after testing.
> 
> The update notifies the user that it has been updated to Ver 1470.3 along with the details section. In a hurry, I have forgotten to see what that section might show. If anyone is updating with the USB method, please try to capture the update details section.


Damn, that’s huge if the update removed CA and speckle!


----------



## Aztar35

JereyWolf said:


> I had to do the update over USB again.
> 
> ....I think this firmware update may have removed RBE for me.
> *Edit*
> I'm still seeing some small flashes of RBE.





rigidz said:


> I have updated the latest firmware using the USB method. I couldn't find the release notes; however, here are my observations.
> 
> 
> Those crazy red colors are gone now ( In all default settings, of course, you might still see in the interface. However, the video doesn't look saturated red anymore).
> RGB Laser speckles /Chromatic aberration is not noticeable to my eyes anymore.
> Google voice assistant is now an option under the voice setting.
> Settings interface colors look similar to my other Samsung tv.
> I will update more after testing.


That's great to hear, guys! It's also possible the FW update just addressed something else that had an incidental impact on RBE. 

As far as CA, that's typically a lens issue. What it could be is that red saturation was rolled back or adjusted and that resulted in the benefits you are both seeing; but until we get an official word, it's really difficult to say. 

But if you are both seeing improvement, that's great. Enjoy it!


----------



## driege

When you get it, I'd love to hear how they compare. I know Bennutz preferred the LG due to CA on the Samsung but I'm interested to hear more comparisons. Those are the two projectors I'm torn between unless something better comes out in the next few months (I'll probably pull the trigger before summer).


----------



## flam3of4nor

driege said:


> When you get it, I'd love to hear how they compare. I know Bennutz preferred the LG due to CA on the Samsung but I'm interested to hear more comparisons. Those are the two projectors I'm torn between unless something better comes out in the next few months (I'll probably pull the trigger before summer).


Yes I am also still torn betweem the LG and the Samsung. The Samsung is not available in Germany at the Moment but I wanted to order it as soon as it is available again.

My biggest concerns with the Samsung are:


people say it does not have motion compensation in 4k (that could be bad since the samsung and LG are not good in 24p)
no 50Hz mode (in Germany television stuff is in 50Hz)
on general people say that the motion compensation on samsung is producing more soap opera effect than the LG
CA I am not sure if it is a big deal for me since my previous SXRD Sony hat also a similar thing (convergence of the 3 panels)
no brightness control (not sure if it is an issue when watching in the dark)
more difficult to calibrate

Advantages of the Samsung for me are:

brighter when calibrated (what is very nice for me)
3 HDMI Ports (which I need)
HDR10+
Better color reproduction when calibrated
TV Tuner in Germany


So on general the LG looks like the saver bet, but I also fear that the LG will be updated soon. Its already 1 years old.


----------



## Tophe_fr

There is motion compensation in 4K. I saw it on all 4k movies i watched. 
It does nice job but sometimes i saw some kind of "halo" around characters. So i stoped using auto mode and decreased it to 3/10 and now it's fine.

The new firmware is not available yet in Europe.


----------



## flam3of4nor

Tophe_fr said:


> There is motion compensation in 4K. I saw it on all 4k movies i watched.
> It does nice job but sometimes i saw some kind of "halo" around characters. So i stoped using auto mode and decreased it to 3/10 and now it's fine.
> 
> The new firmware is not available yet in Europe.


Thank you thats already an important information. It was not clear cause some people said it has and others said it has not.
That for sure makes me lean a bit more to the Samsung.

I currently still have an LG HU80 and I am quite happy with its motion compensation (even though its not perfect and sometimes creates artifacts).


----------



## Seattledog12

Hi, anybody tried a coffee table approach for the projector to sit on and have the sound bar sitting in front of it? I have the Sonos arc + Sonos sub + Sonos amp ceiling speakers as surround setup, and I’m not sure where to put the arc. I don’t want to block the upward firing sounds. Any concern with putting it in front of the projector in terms of how it looks? Another way is to add this acrylic box upside down for the projector to sit on so it is slightly higher than the arc. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZFV3W78/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BVBJZ1E6QNPTQEXKSA6T?psc=1

Thoughts? Thanks guys


----------



## JereyWolf

Tophe_fr said:


> So i stoped using auto mode and decreased it to 3/10 and now it's fine.


I agree, a setting of 3 in judder reduction is the sweet spot for smooth, natural looking motion with no visible artifacts or SOE.

The motion on this projector is better than my Sony XBR940D LED.


----------



## JereyWolf

Mikenificent1 said:


> Damn, that’s huge if the update removed CA and speckle!


Speckle is one of the things that mildly annoys me about the LSP9T and I'm still seeing it after the update.
Chromatic aberration, isn't something that bothers me at all, however I just checked to see whether it's improved after the update. I think it's about the same as before.


----------



## goondo

130" The Premiere LSP9T 4K UST Laser Projector | Samsung US


Discover the latest in TV projector technology with Samsung's 130” The Premiere LSP9T 4K UST ultra short throw triple laser projector for your home theater!




www.samsung.com





~8% percent off (-$500)


----------



## flam3of4nor

JereyWolf said:


> Speckle is one of the things that mildly annoys me about the LSP9T and I'm still seeing it after the update.
> Chromatic aberration, isn't something that bothers me at all, however I just checked to see whether it's improved after the update. I think it's about the same as before.
> 
> 
> View attachment 3088109
> View attachment 3088110


Do you have a picture of the full screen of this text? So that I can get a better feeling how big or small this cromaric abbreviation is?


----------



## JereyWolf

flam3of4nor said:


> Do you have a picture of the full screen of this text? So that I can get a better feeling how big or small this cromaric abbreviation is?


120" screen for reference.


----------



## flam3of4nor

JereyWolf said:


> 120" screen for reference.
> 
> View attachment 3088140


Great! Thank you!


----------



## Genzi

the lg is much darker if you set the colors correctly. the Samsung has the larger color space


----------



## Seattledog12

So people have experience of putting the soundbar directly in front of the LSP9T. Does it block anything? Eg ability to use remote? Thanks!


----------



## Tallon

Would love to see what people are doing with larger center channels. Are you just putting them too low and placing the projector on top?


----------



## bennutt

Seattledog12 said:


> So people have experience of putting the soundbar directly in front of the LSP9T. Does it block anything? Eg ability to use remote? Thanks!


Depends on the angle of the IR, but very likely yes.. it blocks the front mounted sensor.
You can mitigate that with a cheap IR extender.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bennutt

Tallon said:


> Would love to see what people are doing with larger center channels. Are you just putting them too low and placing the projector on top?


Trying it both ways.
Will likely place it back underneath because my Prestige speaker reflects light and it just looks awkward.




















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Tophe_fr

To avoid reflection, i put black fabrics (same as my wall) on all my front speakers. I'll do it on the LSP9T to soon.



Tallon said:


> Would love to see what people are doing with larger center channels. Are you just putting them too low and placing the projector on top?


I've a Klipsch RC64 wich is a big center and yes, the only way i ve found so far is to put the LSP9T on top of it. If i wanted to put the RC64 over the LP9T then i would have to move my screen away from the wall.
Maybe i'll put it in front of the projector but then it will be a bit to close from my siting position and won't be aligned with my front speakers.
With my AV receiver, i can raise the center chanel so i it's not that much disturbing when watching movies.

Yesterday i tried to do better calibration (with my eyes) of the lsp9t. i was dispointed of red colors, sometimes seing a very unatural bright red in HDR movies (like the dress of the woman in red in the 1st Matrix ). And i noticed that in Auto mode, the color space was Rec 2020. I switched to personal mode and chose DCPI-3 wich solved this problem. So now i watch all my HDR movies in DCPI-3 and it's far better. Hope a future firmware will solve this issue.


----------



## TRobbert

Tophe_fr said:


> Yesterday i tried to do better calibration (with my eyes) of the lsp9t. i was dispointed of red colors, sometimes seing a very unatural bright red in HDR movies (like the dress of the woman in red in the 1st Matrix ). And i noticed that in Auto mode, the color space was Rec 2020. I switched to personal mode and chose DCPI-3 wich solved this problem. So now i watch all my HDR movies in DCPI-3 and it's far better. Hope a future firmware will solve this issue.


Interesting regarding the color setting. When I go to custom and choose DCPI-3 the red saturation is set at 46, blue and green are both at 55 preset.

Have you played with the tint setting? Yesterday I watched Passengers and tried tint allt the way down to -G15 made skintones where I want it. For the 3 days Ive hade the projector I find myself changing settings all the time so def need some calibration.


----------



## mcollin6

“Actually I compared the reading from ST130G4 and ST100, the readings are very close with the UST projector right below the screen, I also tried to look at the ST100 sample on the ST130G4 screen with my eyes, they looked almost identical. So looks like at extreme angles, ST130G4 is very similar to a ST100. Anyway, I still decided to take my readings on the ST100 sample.”

Just to make sure that I understand, the ST130 has a gain of 1.3, while the ST100 has a gain of 1.0, so all things being equal there should be a 30% brightness increase from using the ST130 over the ST100. I am understanding from your testing, that due to the high angle of incidence, there is about a 30% loss in brightness of the ST130 from the expected brightness if you were using a Standard Throw projector. 

Also, the translation talpoked about a reduction in CA with the calibration. Can you explain that more? 

“The most important thing is that the dense chromatic aberration tails have basically disappeared, and the brightness has not changed after calibration. After tuning, I can achieve this level under the rigorous test of 5000 points in the 2020 color gamut. I am quite satisfied.”



Jue Liang said:


> My settings:
> Contrast=35, color temp=warm 2
> 2 point adjustment R gain= -12, G gain=1, B gain=7, R offset=0, G offset=0, B offset=-3
> 
> But please keep in mind that the calibration settings depends on a lot things like sample variation and screen type. My settings may not be the best for your set up.
> 
> 
> The black level I measured in dynamic mode is not lower than that in filmmaker mode, and this is what I see with my eyes as well. The higher contrast I measured with Dynamic and standard modes were due to the increased peak brightness at the sacrifice of color and gamma accuracy.
> 
> Yes, I did try to put a piece of velvet on the surface, it helped.
> 
> I attached a piece of ST100 sample on the ST130 screen and took the measurements on it, that's why I said "taken on ST100 material". Actually I compared the reading from ST130G4 and ST100, the readings are very close with the UST projector right below the screen, I also tried to look at the ST100 sample on the ST130G4 screen with my eyes, they looked almost identical. So looks like at extreme angles, ST130G4 is very similar to a ST100. Anyway, I still decided to take my readings on the ST100 sample.
> 
> To be honest, the speckle is far less bothering than the RBE to me. But again, this largely depends on how sensitive you are to either of these two types of artifacts.
> 
> 
> Sorry, I don't want to make any recommedations. I can only speak for myself, I won't use any projector in a bright room.
> 
> 
> If you keep reading that post, you would see the reason for the low ANSI. It is due to the light reflection in the light path and the lens, as well as the white surface of the projector, as I showed in the screen shots, the light tails following bright objects. I also explained it in that post, although it was translated by google. My other projectors, DLP and LCOS, all measured much higher ANSI in the same room than the LSP9T.


----------



## Seattledog12

bennutt said:


> Trying it both ways.
> Will likely place it back underneath because my Prestige speaker reflects light and it just looks awkward.


in your first case, it seems your speaker is in front of the premiere. Is there any problems with blocking the remote from the IR sensor? I asked Samsung support and they told me it won’t be an issue but I want to double check with an actual owner. Thank you!


----------



## Tallon

Tophe_fr said:


> To avoid reflection, i put black fabrics (same as my wall) on all my front speakers. I'll do it on the LSP9T to soon.
> 
> 
> I've a Klipsch RC64 wich is a big center and yes, the only way i ve found so far is to put the LSP9T on top of it.


Exactly my worry. I'm planning to start my new home theater with RF 7 IIIs and an RC64 and trying to figure out the entertainment center situation for the LSP9T is tough. Is it that bad for listening if the center is below the projector (12" off the ground)?


----------



## ApeEx

Seattledog12 said:


> in your first case, it seems your speaker is in front of the premiere. Is there any problems with blocking the remote from the IR sensor? I asked Samsung support and they told me it won’t be an issue but I want to double check with an actual owner. Thank you!


On several occasions I've put my projector into a bedroom completely out of sight behind a bed and the remote and Bluetooth both worked fine. You also have the option of using the Samsung app as a remote, which doesn't use IR.


----------



## Mikenificent1

JereyWolf said:


> Speckle is one of the things that mildly annoys me about the LSP9T and I'm still seeing it after the update.
> Chromatic aberration, isn't something that bothers me at all, however I just checked to see whether it's improved after the update. I think it's about the same as before.
> 
> 
> View attachment 3088109
> View attachment 3088110


Curious, do you only see speckle in reds, or all colors? The other poster mentioned CA and speckle were removed when also his reds were tamed After the firmware update.


----------



## JereyWolf

Mikenificent1 said:


> Curious, do you only see speckle in reds, or all colors? The other poster mentioned CA and speckle were removed when also his reds were tamed After the firmware update.


I can see speckle on other colors too. I think it's most noticeable on white, and especially noticeable when there is a large patch of a single color on the screen. 

I don't see any difference in color or CA on my unit.


----------



## Tophe_fr

Tallon said:


> Exactly my worry. I'm planning to start my new home theater with RF 7 IIIs and an RC64 and trying to figure out the entertainment center situation for the LSP9T is tough. Is it that bad for listening if the center is below the projector (12" off the ground)?


Not bad at all if u have an AV receiver that can raise dialogs using the 2 front speakers. I only notice it if I focus on dialogs but otherwise it's fine when enjoying the big show


----------



## JereyWolf

Tophe_fr said:


> Not bad at all if u have an AV receiver that can raise dialogs using the 2 front speakers. I only notice it if I focus on dialogs but otherwise it's fine when enjoying the big show


 I'd agree here. I was worried that lowing my center would make vocals much less clear, but it's not bad at all. My center sits about 11" off the floor and is angled up ~7 degrees towards my seats. For me, lowering the center is definitely worth the trade off for having a 120" screen.


----------



## flam3of4nor

I doubt that RBE, Speckle or CA can be changed by firmware updates cause its all hardware related, CA is the lense, RBE the 200Hz frequency of the laser and the specle also cause of the lasers and bandwith used. So I guess if somebody sees a difference after a Firmware update its just imagination. There is nothing what can be fixed by software here in that regard...


----------



## Jue Liang

flam3of4nor said:


> I read your full post and also that it is due to the light reflections and so on but all other testers had those most probably as well unless they had a black lsp9t , but still measured 400:1. Thats why I wanted to understand what you did. Just curious why all magazines and people measure 400:1 and you measure such an extremely low value. The difference is much more than just a bit of deviation of different test setups.
> 
> here is what I mean. That is from our biggest German magazine for example and they usually test right:
> 
> At „Kontrast“ You can see the measurement. The On/Off is almost exactly what you measure but the Ansi is quite different.





Aztar35 said:


> Thanks so much for your efforts and sharing with us your review of the LSP9T. A while back, I had a demo sample of the projector for a bit. And I just wanted to ask you about the ANSI contrast measurement of 92. Did you measure ANSI at least a few times before calibration to get the reading? I don't know of a projector that measures that low in a good room; even the JVC D-ILA projectors don't measure their ANSI contrast that low. And that measurement is not consistent with my experience with the LSP9T or with what other reviewers have found.


I did the ANSI measurements of LSP9T several times because I was also surprised by its low ANSI contrast. As I said a few times here already, all my other projectors measured much higher ANSI than the LSP9T. Even my JVC, which is known for relatively low ANSI, measured 210-230 ANSI contrast in the same room. I can confirm that the LSP9T measurements were not wrong. As you can clearly see from the screen shots I attached in my original post, there are light tails following bright objects on the black background, which indicates light reflection in the light path and/or the lens of this projector. With these "light tails", there's no way the ANSI contrast can be high. Maybe this is just my unit, maybe the reviewer got a golden sample, I don't know the answer. But if anyone want to know the real performance of their own setup, they should take measurements of color/brightness/contrast with their own unit, in their own room, on their own screen. And if you are using this projector in a non-optimum room, the ANSI contrast would be dominated by reflection from your room.

I also said the on/off and 0-10%ADL contrast of LSP9T is very good as a DLP, which is much more important than the ANSI for real content viewing.

So I am done with this topic, thanks.



mcollin6 said:


> Just to make sure that I understand, the ST130 has a gain of 1.3, while the ST100 has a gain of 1.0, so all things being equal there should be a 30% brightness increase from using the ST130 over the ST100. I am understanding from your testing, that due to the high angle of incidence, there is about a 30% loss in brightness of the ST130 from the expected brightness if you were using a Standard Throw projector.
> 
> Also, the translation talpoked about a reduction in CA with the calibration. Can you explain that more?


Yes, based on my experience, at extreme angles, for example using an UST, or view from one side to another side of screen when using a standard throw projector, ST130G4 and ST100 are almost identical.
I attached two pics, I attached a piece of ST100 on ST130 at the center and at the right bottom corner respectively, and took the pictures at the left side. The ST100 is darker than ST130 at the center, and undistinguishable at the extreme corner. This is with a standard throw pj. When using LSP9T, the ST100 is almost undistinguishable from ST130 at any place of the whole screen.


















The "reduction in chromatic aberration after calibration" is a wrong translation by google. I actually meant color inaccuracy.




Tophe_fr said:


> Thank you.
> I know it's not universal settings but it's a good point to start.
> Me i prefer natural colors over warm that i found to much red and, well, not natural


The default fimmaker mode was bit too red as I showed in my test result, and my settings in the 2 point white balance reduced the red push. But this was with the older firmware, after the installing the 1470.3 firmware, the red push is gone! The dynamic and standard modes still have way too much blue with the new firmware. I will post more test results below.



Aztar35 said:


> Also re RBE, assuming owners have their updates option turned on, I'm wondering whether the latest FW improves laser cycling through the chip to reduce RBE?


Strangely, the auto update and manually check for update didn't work. I had to download the new firmware from samsung's website and use a USB drive to update.
I can confirm that, with the firmware 1470.3, the RBE is MUCH reduced! and this was confirmed by myself, my wife, and my kid. We are all very sensitive to RBE. However, RBE still exists, especially when I blink or move my eyes.

Another significant improvement is the color accuracy with the filmmaker mode. As you can see from the tests below, the red push in both grey scale and the CIE xy figure is gone.

Old firmware









New firmware











Old firmware









New firmware










Now the only problem is a bit green push, which can be easily corrected with a 2 point white balance adjustment.




















For anyone who would like to know my settings of the manual correction, they are R gain=0, G gain= -5, B gain=4, R offset =1, G offset=0. B offset = -2. A 3D Lut calibration would improve it further of course.
Again, this may not work for you due to sample variance and screen difference.


----------



## rigidz

Thank you, Jue Liang, for your inputs on this projector. You always bring technical details to the table. As you confirmed, "the firmware 1470.3, the RBE is MUCH reduced", also color accuracy. Indeed I can see the difference, which I have confirmed in previous postings. 

I need your opinion. Few folks have claimed that HDFury increases the HDR accuracy for DV content when mapped with LLDV). Is that a correct statement? 

Thanks for your settings too.
Note: I am not a professional calibrator.


----------



## Jue Liang

rigidz said:


> Thank you, Jue Liang, for your inputs on this projector. You always bring technical details to the table. As you confirmed, "the firmware 1470.3, the RBE is MUCH reduced", also color accuracy. Indeed I can see the difference, which I have confirmed in previous postings.
> 
> I need your opinion. Few folks have claimed that HDFury increases the HDR accuracy for DV content when mapped with LLDV). Is that a correct statement?
> 
> Thanks for your settings too.
> Note: I am not a professional calibrator.


You are welcome. Glad that I can provide any useful inputs.

I am aware of the HDFury DV hack from the beginning and there are lots of debates about it. But I have been using madVR, Lumagen radiance pro, and the JVC frame adapt HDR to provide dynamic tone mapping, so I don't need to and never tried to use the HDFury. Sorry, I can't give you any comments on that.


----------



## flam3of4nor

I just ordered the LSP9T.  I will share my experience when I got it.


----------



## Aztar35

flam3of4nor said:


> I doubt that RBE, Speckle or CA can be changed by firmware updates cause its all hardware related, CA is the lense, RBE the 200Hz frequency of the laser and the specle also cause of the lasers and bandwith used. So I guess if somebody sees a difference after a Firmware update its just imagination. There is nothing what can be fixed by software here in that regard...


Firmware can speed up the laser cycling speed which can in turn reduce RBE. 



flam3of4nor said:


> I just ordered the LSP9T.  I will share my experience when I got it.


Nice! Yes. Keep us posted.


----------



## TRobbert

> For anyone who would like to know my settings of the manual correction, they are R gain=0, G gain= -5, B gain=4, R offset =1, G offset=0. B offset = -2. A 3D Lut calibration would improve it further of course.
> Again, this may not work for you due to sample variance and screen difference.


Thanks Jue Liang for your posts! I learnt a lot regarding color behavior.

Anyone know if the Samsung US firmware will work on an EU modell?


----------



## Tophe_fr

I thought of installing the US firmware on my European LSP9T but I didn't do it. U could get wrong localisation for applications like Netflix, Amazon... But worst u could brick your device.
So I prefer to wait. It will be available in Europe anyway


----------



## rigidz

Hello All, 

1) Owners of this projector, Are you guys using Samsung TV native apps or External streaming player like (Apple/Nvidia)?

2) If using native apps, How do we find out the frame rate , resolution and HDR info? I believe before updating to latest firmware, info button option ( Three dots) used to display some info on netflix at least ( if I remember correctly). 

Good to see that a lot and a lot people are jumping in and becoming owners of this projector.


----------



## Deretour

TimA1 said:


> Everybody. Just use Rec 709 color space instead of P3 or 2020.


Thank you for your answer. However I have tried all color space configuration and I have the same issue (more or less amplified). 
I think that I will go to after sales services...
Thanks again


----------



## JereyWolf

Has anyone been able to accurately photograph the image from their LSP9T? I'm looking for tips to improve my photos.
I have an LG HU85LA in my possession and I plan to set it up next to the Samsung and feed them the same signal for simultaneous comparison.
I know that if I take any photos with the camera/settings I've been using, the Samsung will not be accurately represented. I'm thinking that any white balance offset for compensate for the Samsung will throw off the image from the LG.
If it's possible to get accurate photos, I'll do what I can to make it happen.


----------



## flam3of4nor

JereyWolf said:


> Has anyone been able to accurately photograph the image from their LSP9T? I'm looking for tips to improve my photos.
> I have an LG HU85LA in my possession and I plan to set it up next to the Samsung and feed them the same signal for simultaneous comparison.
> I know that if I take any photos with the camera/settings I've been using, the Samsung will not be accurately represented. I'm thinking that any white balance offset for compensate for the Samsung will throw off the image from the LG.
> If it's possible to get accurate photos, I'll do what I can to make it happen.


 I got my LSP9T now as well but I was not successful to take a picture without the red tint.
I think it could maybe work with a different camera


----------



## flam3of4nor

By the way did anybody of you test HDR10+ content? I just watched The Expanse Season 5 in HDR10+ with the Amazonapp in the LAP9T and it was really great. Much better image quality than on the AppleTV prime app with just HDR.


----------



## bennutt

flam3of4nor said:


> By the way did anybody of you test HDR10+ content? I just watched The Expanse Season 5 in HDR10+ with the Amazonapp in the LAP9T and it was really great. Much better image quality than on the AppleTV prime app with just HDR.


I just wish it wasn’t another format war.
HDR 10+ is awesome. So is Dolby Vision. One currently has a ton more content. Give us displays that support both!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rigidz

flam3of4nor said:


> By the way did anybody of you test HDR10+ content? I just watched The Expanse Season 5 in HDR10+ with the Amazonapp in the LAP9T and it was really great. Much better image quality than on the AppleTV prime app with just HDR.


Congratulations getting this projector. After updating to firmware 1470.3, Amazon HDR videos are no longer getting played in HDR/HDR10+ mode. 
Update 1470.3 fixed other issue though.


----------



## flam3of4nor

rigidz said:


> Congratulations getting this projector. After updating to firmware 1470.3, Amazon HDR videos are no longer getting played in HDR/HDR10+ mode.
> Update 1470.3 fixed other issue though.


Oh thats too bad. Are you sure? Are external HDR10+ sources working? We did not get this update in Germany yet,


----------



## flam3of4nor

bennutt said:


> I just wish it wasn’t another format war.
> HDR 10+ is awesome. So is Dolby Vision. One currently has a ton more content. Give us displays that support both!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I fully agree. I also wished that the Samsung would support Dolby Vision since the Apple TV is my main streaming device. Still I think HDR10+ looks fantastic on the Samsung. I do not use MadVr or a Lumagen, so for me its a very nice addition.


----------



## driege

JereyWolf said:


> Has anyone been able to accurately photograph the image from their LSP9T? I'm looking for tips to improve my photos.


I've seen people suggest it worked better with a DSLR instead of a phone camera.


----------



## JereyWolf

I tried a DSLR camera but it had the same issue as my phone. The still images I took while I had this set-up are worthless due to the color shifting. I thought this video was kind of interesting though. Filmed on a Galaxy S9, a screenshot of my camera setting is attached. LG HU85LA on the left and Samsung LSP9T on the right. They are both being sent the same signal via an HDMI splitter, displaying a blank white screen video from a YouTube, played on Nvidia Shield.

I'm not sure if there's anything that interesting that can be gleaned from this video (possibly something about laser speed)....but who else would I share it with? It's unlisted on YouTube.

I know the projectors are not properly aligned, my goal here wasn't perfect image.


----------



## flam3of4nor

JereyWolf said:


> I tried a DSLR camera but it had the same issue as my phone. The still images I took while I had this set-up are worthless due to the color shifting. I thought this video was kind of interesting though. Filmed on a Galaxy S9, a screenshot of my camera setting is attached. LG HU85LA on the left and Samsung LSP9T on the right. They are both being sent the same signal via an HDMI splitter, displaying a blank white screen video from a YouTube, played on Nvidia Shield.
> 
> I'm not sure if there's anything that interesting that can be gleaned from this video....but who else would I share it with? It's unlisted on YouTube.
> 
> I know the projectors are not properly aligned, my goal here wasn't perfect image.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3090643


This was a blank white screen and the camera made such color shows out of it? 

Samsung is faster and more Popping Colors/Brightness 😂


----------



## JereyWolf

flam3of4nor said:


> This was a blank white screen and the camera made such color shows out of it?
> 
> Samsung is faster and more Popping Colors/Brightness 😂


Yeah, just a blank white screen. At that shutter speed, this was the image I got.


----------



## flam3of4nor

JereyWolf said:


> Yeah, just a blank white screen. At that shutter speed, this was the image I got.


Have to try that too


----------



## flam3of4nor

JereyWolf said:


> I tried a DSLR camera but it had the same issue as my phone. The still images I took while I had this set-up are worthless due to the color shifting. I thought this video was kind of interesting though. Filmed on a Galaxy S9, a screenshot of my camera setting is attached. LG HU85LA on the left and Samsung LSP9T on the right. They are both being sent the same signal via an HDMI splitter, displaying a blank white screen video from a YouTube, played on Nvidia Shield.
> 
> I'm not sure if there's anything that interesting that can be gleaned from this video (possibly something about laser speed)....but who else would I share it with? It's unlisted on YouTube.
> 
> I know the projectors are not properly aligned, my goal here wasn't perfect image.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3090643


By the way which projector you like more. I just got my Samsung and initially thought to also order the LG to compare but now having the Samsung I like it so much that I will not try the LG.


----------



## rigidz

flam3of4nor said:


> Oh thats too bad. Are you sure? Are external HDR10+ sources working? We did not get this update in Germany yet,


Yep. I am at the latest firmware (1470.3), HDR works on Netflix and not on Amazon.

On which version of firmware you are on now currently?
Do you see HDR while Amazon HDR prime videos are playing? 
If you have Netflix, By setting to Film maker mode can you check what information it shows at top right ? 

For me Before updating to Firmware 1470.3 & Netflix latest update , Info button on remote used to show resolution and framerate. Samsung told me that Filmmaker mode plays at 24P ( The way it should be). I have compared Apple vs Native Apps, didn't notice any differences between Native Apps & Apple Apps video quality.


----------



## flam3of4nor

bennutt said:


> CA issue was the deal breaker. I could never un-see it.
> 
> If they could fix that, Samsung would be the better projector with native HDR10+ and more quiet operation.
> 
> The LG does have dynamic tone mapping for HDR10.
> 
> Both projectors create an awesome image and are equal with input lag. It doesn’t hurt that LG is substantially cheaper right now.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Could you tell any difference in RBE with both units?
I have a normal thow LG HU80 which does not have any RBE, but the LSP9T is quite bad in comparison. I did not expect that a much newer and much more expensive projector has a so much worse RBE. I read somewhere that the laserfrequency of the LG HU85 is quite low. So it would be interesting how that compares to the LSP9T


----------



## driege

JereyWolf said:


> I tried a DSLR camera but it had the same issue as my phone.


Darn - the video you posted is interesting though. 

What about your subjective evaluation? Which do you prefer overall? How do they compare on contrast, black levels, CA, color?


----------



## JereyWolf

driege said:


> Darn - the video you posted is interesting though.
> 
> What about your subjective evaluation? Which do you prefer overall? How do they compare on contrast, black levels, CA, color?


My main complaints about the LSP9T are RBE and speckle. CA is visible up close, but it doesn't bother me and I can't see it from where I sit. 

From what I can see with the HU85LA, there is essentially no RBE, speckle or CA. 

These are just my impressions. 

The black level on the LG could match the Samsung only if the brightness setting was kept at default value of 50%. Raising the brightness slider really hurt the black level. While matching the black level of the Samsung the LG just seemed to have a much dimmer image.

Color is significantly more vibrant on the LSP9T. This can be kind of an issue in app interfaces....but in real content I definitely prefer it. 

One of the things I really wanted to try was 1080p 120hz PC gaming on the LG. When connected to my PC it was available as a selectable resolution and it seemed to function without any artifacts. The experience was not like using a true 120hz monitor though...there seemed to be no difference in the 60hz vs 120hz settings. 

The biggest issue that I felt was present with the LG was stuttering motion. I couldn't find a balanced setting that had smooth motion without interpolation artifacts. The LSP9T motion is so smooth in comparison (I use a judder reduction setting of 3). 

The latest firmware update has had a significant reduction in my experience of RBE. 

Maybe I haven't given the LG a full and fair chance. I only had it set up for 4 days, but I spent more than 10 hours testing different content, devices and adjusting settings. 

I'd save roughly $1800 if I decided to go with the LG.....but I'm going to keep the Samsung.


----------



## flam3of4nor

JereyWolf said:


> My main complaints about the LSP9T are RBE and speckle. CA is visible up close, but it doesn't bother me and I can't see it from where I sit.
> 
> From what I can see with the HU85LA, there is essentially no RBE, speckle or CA.
> 
> These are just my impressions.
> 
> The black level on the LG could match the Samsung only if the brightness setting was kept at default value of 50%. Raising the brightness slider really hurt the black level. While matching the black level of the Samsung the LG just seemed to have a much dimmer image.
> 
> Color is significantly more vibrant on the LSP9T. This can be kind of an issue in app interfaces....but in real content I definitely prefer it.
> 
> One of the things I really wanted to try was 1080p 120hz PC gaming on the LG. When connected to my PC it was available as a selectable resolution and it seemed to function without any artifacts. The experience was not like using a true 120hz monitor though...there seemed to be no difference in the 60hz vs 120hz settings.
> 
> The biggest issue that I felt was present with the LG was stuttering motion. I couldn't find a balanced setting that had smooth motion without interpolation artifacts. The LSP9T motion is so smooth in comparison (I use a judder reduction setting of 3).
> 
> The latest firmware update has had a significant reduction in my experience of RBE.
> 
> Maybe I haven't given the LG a full and fair chance. I only had it set up for 4 days, but I spent more than 10 hours testing different content, devices and adjusting settings.
> 
> I'd save roughly $1800 if I decided to go with the LG.....but I'm going to keep the Samsung.


I did not personally see the LG HU85 but it is almost the same impression I get out of my old LG HU80 (I know it is inferiour to the 85) No RBE in comparison, FI is a bit better on the Samsung. Brightness and color of the Samsung are amazing. 
My only issue with the Samsung is the RBE. I had like 12 years ago another DLP and it had a similar bad RBE. Not sure what Samsung did there. Maybe those 3 Lasers and the spectral length of them increases the RBE. 
Since the overall image quality is really great on the Samsung I will most probably keep it. I got a very good price and in Germany its just 400€ more expensive due to that.


----------



## flam3of4nor

rigidz said:


> Yep. I am at the latest firmware (1470.3), HDR works on Netflix and not on Amazon.
> 
> On which version of firmware you are on now currently?
> Do you see HDR while Amazon HDR prime videos are playing?
> If you have Netflix, By setting to Film maker mode can you check what information it shows at top right ?
> 
> For me Before updating to Firmware 1470.3 & Netflix latest update , Info button on remote used to show resolution and framerate. Samsung told me that Filmmaker mode plays at 24P ( The way it should be). I have compared Apple vs Native Apps, didn't notice any differences between Native Apps & Apple Apps video quality.


Unfortunately my Samsung did an Autoupdate to the same Firmware you have. It seems indeed not to do the HDR10+ anymore with the internal App but I cannot tell for sure. It still looks better than the Apple TV in HDR prime contrnt. The Info button does not work with my internal app. Just with external Sources.


----------



## flam3of4nor

Funny sidenote to all people who wear glasses. If I do not look straight through them but move the head up or down a bit and just look on the screen with my eyes the CA gets much stronger. 😂 Of course not a real issue cause usually you dont look on the screen like that, but the lasers seem to also interfere with the angle passing eye glasses.


----------



## driege

JereyWolf said:


> My main complaints about the LSP9T are RBE and speckle. CA is visible up close, but it doesn't bother me and I can't see it from where I sit.
> 
> From what I can see with the HU85LA, there is essentially no RBE, speckle or CA.
> 
> These are just my impressions.
> 
> The black level on the LG could match the Samsung only if the brightness setting was kept at default value of 50%. Raising the brightness slider really hurt the black level. While matching the black level of the Samsung the LG just seemed to have a much dimmer image.
> 
> Color is significantly more vibrant on the LSP9T. This can be kind of an issue in app interfaces....but in real content I definitely prefer it.
> 
> One of the things I really wanted to try was 1080p 120hz PC gaming on the LG. When connected to my PC it was available as a selectable resolution and it seemed to function without any artifacts. The experience was not like using a true 120hz monitor though...there seemed to be no difference in the 60hz vs 120hz settings.
> 
> The biggest issue that I felt was present with the LG was stuttering motion. I couldn't find a balanced setting that had smooth motion without interpolation artifacts. The LSP9T motion is so smooth in comparison (I use a judder reduction setting of 3).
> 
> The latest firmware update has had a significant reduction in my experience of RBE.
> 
> Maybe I haven't given the LG a full and fair chance. I only had it set up for 4 days, but I spent more than 10 hours testing different content, devices and adjusting settings.
> 
> I'd save roughly $1800 if I decided to go with the LG.....but I'm going to keep the Samsung.


Thanks - very helpful. I guess I'll be looking for a deal on the LSP9T.


----------



## Mikenificent1

JereyWolf said:


> My main complaints about the LSP9T are RBE and speckle. CA is visible up close, but it doesn't bother me and I can't see it from where I sit.
> 
> From what I can see with the HU85LA, there is essentially no RBE, speckle or CA.
> 
> These are just my impressions.
> 
> The black level on the LG could match the Samsung only if the brightness setting was kept at default value of 50%. Raising the brightness slider really hurt the black level. While matching the black level of the Samsung the LG just seemed to have a much dimmer image.
> 
> Color is significantly more vibrant on the LSP9T. This can be kind of an issue in app interfaces....but in real content I definitely prefer it.
> 
> One of the things I really wanted to try was 1080p 120hz PC gaming on the LG. When connected to my PC it was available as a selectable resolution and it seemed to function without any artifacts. The experience was not like using a true 120hz monitor though...there seemed to be no difference in the 60hz vs 120hz settings.
> 
> The biggest issue that I felt was present with the LG was stuttering motion. I couldn't find a balanced setting that had smooth motion without interpolation artifacts. The LSP9T motion is so smooth in comparison (I use a judder reduction setting of 3).
> 
> The latest firmware update has had a significant reduction in my experience of RBE.
> 
> Maybe I haven't given the LG a full and fair chance. I only had it set up for 4 days, but I spent more than 10 hours testing different content, devices and adjusting settings.
> 
> I'd save roughly $1800 if I decided to go with the LG.....but I'm going to keep the Samsung.


this confirms the other review I mentioned that said the motion on the LG isn’t good. same as you mentioned, it’s jerky.


----------



## Vzx

flam3of4nor said:


> Funny sidenote to all people who wear glasses. If I do not look straight through them but move the head up or down a bit and just look on the screen with my eyes the CA gets much stronger. 😂 Of course not a real issue cause usually you dont look on the screen like that, but the lasers seem to also interfere with the angle passing eye glasses.


I had the same experience. I wear high index glasses and the CA is definitely worse. On a sidenote, the RBE is also worse when wearing high index glasses compared to wearing contacts. 

I decided to keep the projector. The price of the LG went up by the time I was thinking about pulling the trigger on returning the Samsung. I will probably just add some bias LED lighting behind my screen to minimize


----------



## flam3of4nor

Vzx said:


> I had the same experience. I wear high index glasses and the CA is definitely worse. On a sidenote, the RBE is also worse when wearing high index glasses compared to wearing contacts.
> 
> I decided to keep the projector. The price of the LG went up by the time I was thinking about pulling the trigger on returning the Samsung. I will probably just add some bias LED lighting behind my screen to minimize


I still think apart of the RBE the Samsung has the overall better image quality, with more vibrant colors, deeper blacks and a higher brightness. So I definately keep the Samsung. The CA on general is not visible from my fewing distance and with the RBE I can live.


----------



## bennutt

Mikenificent1 said:


> this confirms the other review I mentioned that said the motion on the LG isn’t good. same as you mentioned, it’s jerky.


I’m curious about the source material for these complaints. I have the Apple TV set to “match frame rate” and don’t see this issue.
Also, this avs review calls out motion as excellent.









LG CineBeam HU85LA 4K UST Laser Projector Review


What does the future of projection look like? The LG CineBeam HU85LA Ultra Short Throw 4K Laser Smart Projector ($5999.99) offers an answer to that question today. It’s a projector that fits right into your living room, sitting mere inches away from the screen. It’s a projector that gives you a...




www.avsforum.com






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Mikenificent1

bennutt said:


> I’m curious about the source material for these complaints. I have the Apple TV set to “match frame rate” and don’t see this issue.
> Also, this avs review calls out motion as excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LG CineBeam HU85LA 4K UST Laser Projector Review
> 
> 
> What does the future of projection look like? The LG CineBeam HU85LA Ultra Short Throw 4K Laser Smart Projector ($5999.99) offers an answer to that question today. It’s a projector that fits right into your living room, sitting mere inches away from the screen. It’s a projector that gives you a...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


it was HDTV test. He uses a test disc that has a scene to spot motion issues easily. I don’t remember the name of the disc.


----------



## bix26

Mikenificent1 said:


> it was HDTV test. He uses a test disc that has a scene to spot motion issues easily. I don’t remember the name of the disc.


Spears & Munsil UHD If I’m remembering correctly.


----------



## flam3of4nor

bennutt said:


> I’m curious about the source material for these complaints. I have the Apple TV set to “match frame rate” and don’t see this issue.
> Also, this avs review calls out motion as excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LG CineBeam HU85LA 4K UST Laser Projector Review
> 
> 
> What does the future of projection look like? The LG CineBeam HU85LA Ultra Short Throw 4K Laser Smart Projector ($5999.99) offers an answer to that question today. It’s a projector that fits right into your living room, sitting mere inches away from the screen. It’s a projector that gives you a...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I dont have the HU85 but the HU80 but according to my local dealer they both have the same motion compensation chip (not sure if its true).
I can only say that I also like the LG motion compensation and I think it is very good. What I could tell comparing them is that in some scenes some times the LG produces a small jump (its rare) and that the Samsung looks a bit more natural. 
Even though I am perfectly fine with both and would not see a big advantage for either of them.


----------



## JereyWolf

Mikenificent1 said:


> it was HDTV test. He uses a test disc that has a scene to spot motion issues easily. I don’t remember the name of the disc.


Another note about the motion of the LG. I really don't think it's bad. It's motion was felt similar to my Sony LED. 
The Samsung just seems better at being very smooth and having no motion artifacts.


----------



## JereyWolf

I made a video showing a short clip from Black Panther and the difference in motion between the HU85LA and LSP9T. This was about the worst case that I saw with the LG. Each projector has a judder reduction setting of 3. Please ignore the color. The video is available in 4k60


----------



## driege

JereyWolf said:


> I made a video showing a short clip from Black Panther and the difference in motion between the HU85LA and LSP9T. This was about the worst case that I saw with the LG. Each projector has a judder reduction setting of 3. Please ignore the color. The video is available in 4k60


I know you said to ignore the color, but others have mentioned the lsp9t had a magenta tint in real life. Did you see that at all?


----------



## flam3of4nor

driege said:


> I know you said to ignore the color, but others have mentioned the lsp9t had a magenta tint in real life. Did you see that at all?


Depending on the calibration it can have a emphasis on the base colors red, green, blue and the mixed colors look a bit washed out in comparison (due to the clean rgb laser), but the projector can be perfectly calibrated to DCI. It can be a bit difficult to calibrate but IMHO you will not find any projector with better colors or colorspace than the LSP9T.
People who say it has problems with colors or tints are simply not able to calibrate it.


----------



## JereyWolf

driege said:


> I know you said to ignore the color, but others have mentioned the lsp9t had a magenta tint in real life. Did you see that at all?


Maybe in the original out of the box settings there was a magenta tint...but it's easily corrected. When I say ignore the color for this video, it's specifically because of the LSP9Ts effect on my phone camera sensor.


----------



## Aztar35

JereyWolf said:


> I made a video showing a short clip from Black Panther and the difference in motion between the HU85LA and LSP9T. This was about the worst case that I saw with the LG. Each projector has a judder reduction setting of 3. Please ignore the color. The video is available in 4k60
> 
> /MEDIA]


Jerey, I had the LSP9T and the LG HU85LA here for demo over the weekend. The Sammy had FW v. 1402. In bright scenes, sometimes the LG looked better, but in low-mid and darker scenes, the Samsung looked better to me. The LSP9T has arguably the best motion I've seen from any projector, whether short or long throw. If it means anything, this isn't the first projector I've seen in action. I also tried motion enhance on the Sammy at the setting of "1" and saw no SOE. 

I had previously measured, on a dedicated UST-type screen, so off the screen to factor being UST, the Sammy's sequential contrast (0%IRE and 100%IRE) and it came in at around 2,200:1 and the LG at around 2,300:1; but like I said, with actual dark scene content, the Samsung 9 looked better notwithstanding the slightly higher reading of the LG. There might be some HK effect causing that.

When I had them over the weekend, I was projecting on a different screen, a Stewart gray screen and did not take measurements off that screen. Note, with standard throw projectors, I always measure contrast off the lens.


----------



## Aztar35

driege said:


> I know you said to ignore the color, but others have mentioned the lsp9t had a magenta tint in real life. Did you see that at all?


I think that cast is just how some cameras interpret this display. That magenta cast is not there in person. You can also go into the menu. The machine has 2-point and 10-point white balance features to adjust RGB.

If you have a meter, simply use the two-point feature and feed it a constant, pivoting gray 20% and 80% signals. Adjust Offset at 20 and Gain at 80 until you achieve a DE of <3.00.

EDIT: You can get software like Chromapure and the test patterns disc.


----------



## Aztar35

flam3of4nor said:


> Depending on the calibration it can have a emphasis on the base colors red, green, blue and the mixed colors look a bit washed out in comparison (due to the clean rgb laser), but the projector can be perfectly calibrated to DCI.


What you are probably seeing is the HK effect (Helmholtz–Kohlrausch) (after Hermann von Helmholtz and V. A. Kohlrausch), which is a perceived phenomenon wherein the intense saturation of hue is seen as part of the color's luminance.

What makes a projector looked washed out is ambient light overwhelming the image onscreen, or in a dedicated room, the machine's contrast limitations. With FW 1402, the colors looked excellent after some tweaking, in Movie mode. On its own and against the LG HU85LA, the Samsung in darker scenes didn't look bad on my .8 screen, which I use for standard throw. However, the Optoma UHZ65 was also here and that one gets to 35,000:1 dynamic, with an algorithm that extracts brights and dims blacks into higher ADL nicely with the newest FW. Watching the Sammy right after that one made the Sammy look washed out. But remember, that's on a screen for standard throw. The Sammy looked more convincing when I saw it on a UST dedicated screen.



flam3of4nor said:


> but the projector can be perfectly calibrated to DCI. It can be a bit difficult to calibrate but IMHO you will not find any projector with better colors or colorspace than the LSP9T.
> People who say it has problems with colors or tints are simply not able to calibrate it.


The LSP9T has no problems with colors. It's excellent and in terms of color, the best I've seen. I'd rather have this headroom of over 100% of BT2020 and work my way down rather than the other way around.

The thing here is that the vast majority of content has a maximum color width of no greater than DCI-P3, with very little intra-content footage that has grading beyond P3. However, the advantage of the LSP9T is that it is guaranteed to display 100% of P3 information every time because we know it exceeds that color space AND it does so natively, without a filter, so you get all that brightness. It is also future-proof for when more DCI-P3-beyond color content is released.


----------



## flam3of4nor

I have another question to other LSP9T owners. How good is your brightness uniformity? Mine is a bit darker at the right side of the picture especially compared to the left side. Its not extremely strong but still noticeable if you display a for example a full white or grey image.


----------



## flam3of4nor

Aztar35 said:


> What you are probably seeing is the HK effect (Helmholtz–Kohlrausch) (after Hermann von Helmholtz and V. A. Kohlrausch), which is a perceived phenomenon wherein the intense saturation of hue is seen as part of the color's luminance.
> 
> What makes a projector looked washed out is ambient light overwhelming the image onscreen, or in a dedicated room, the machine's contrast limitations. With FW 1402, the colors looked excellent after some tweaking, in Movie mode. On its own and against the LG HU85LA, the Samsung in darker scenes didn't look bad on my .8 screen, which I use for standard throw. However, the Optoma UHZ65 was also here and that one gets to 35,000:1 dynamic, with an algorithm that extracts brights and dims blacks into higher ADL nicely with the newest FW. Watching the Sammy right after that one made the Sammy look washed out. But remember, that's on a screen for standard throw. The Sammy looked more convincing when I saw it on a UST dedicated screen.
> 
> 
> 
> The LSP9T has no problems with colors. It's excellent and in terms of color, the best I've seen. I'd rather have this headroom of over 100% of BT2020 and work my way down rather than the other way around.
> 
> The thing here is that the vast majority of content has a maximum color width of no greater than DCI-P3, with very little intra-content footage that has grading beyond P3. However, the advantage of the LSP9T is that it is guaranteed to display 100% of P3 information every time because we know it exceeds that color space AND it does so natively, without a filter, so you get all that brightness. It is also future-proof for when more DCI-P3-beyond color content is released.


Yes the high dynamiic contrast of the UHZ65 is achieved cause it is the only one of the 3 Lasers which has dynamic Laserdimming.
By the way are you talking about the UHZ65 (long throw) or the UHZ65UST (in US Optoma P1)? I have to say I did not see any UST with dynamic Laserdimming yet (Like the Optoma P1 and P2). I wanted the 0.66" DMD chip and also the shorter installation distance for a 120" screen like the Samsung and LG have. Thats why I did not check the Optomas.
For me it was just either LG HU85 or Samsung LSP9T due to that.


----------



## Aztar35

flam3of4nor said:


> Yes the high dynamiic contrast of the UHZ65 is achieved cause it is the only one of the 3 Lasers which has dynamic Laserdimming.
> By the way are you talking about the UHZ65 (long throw) or the UHZ65UST (in US Optoma P1)? I have to say I did not see any UST with dynamic Laserdimming yet (Like the Optoma P1 and P2). I wanted the 0.66" DMD chip and also the shorter installation distance for a 120" screen like the Samsung and LG have. Thats why I did not check the Optomas.
> For me it was just either LG HU85 or Samsung LSP9T due to that.


The UHZ65 is a standard throw, single color, blue core laser projector that utilizes a dual wheel apparatus, one for color and one phosphor. It's a 3000 lumen spec and .66 chip, so its resolution is 1528x2. And I think some serious R&D went into its latest firmware. Unfortunately, Optoma has discontinued the UHZ65.

Returning to discussing UST projectors, I've seen the Optoma P1 and the Pro but was not as impressed. I was at a UST comparisons/shootout at Pro AV (what a nice set up you have Brian / @ProjectionHead ) and I was surprised by how well the LG HU85LA looked with the content displayed there, but once we put up some darker content afterward, the Samsung LSP9T pulled ahead. I think, overall, of all the UST projectors I've seen, the Samsung 9 is the best. The color advantage is obvious. Speckle was not noticeable to me from five feet away and processing was top-notch! On the latter point, even its stablemate, the LSP7T, had processing so good, it fooled me into thinking it was a .66 chip display.


----------



## flam3of4nor

Aztar35 said:


> The UHZ65 is a standard throw, single color, blue core laser projector that utilizes a dual wheel apparatus, one for color and one phosphor. It's a 3000 lumen spec and .66 chip, so its resolution is 1528x2. And I think some serious R&D went into its latest firmware. Unfortunately, Optoma has discontinued the UHZ65.
> 
> Returning to UST projectors, I've seen the Optoma P1 and the Pro but was left unimpressed. I was at a UST comparisons/shootout at Pro AV (what a nice set up you have Brian / @ProjectionHead ) and I was surprised by how well the LG HU85LA looked with the content displayed there, but once we put up some darker content afterward, the Samsung LSP9T pulled ahead. I think, overall, of all the UST projectors I've seen, the Samsung 9 is the best. The color advantage is obvious. Speckle was not noticeable to me from five feet away and processing was top-notch! On the latter point, even its stablemate, the LSP7T, had processing so good, it fooled me into thinking it was a .66 chip display.


Well there is a kind of successor of the UHZ65. At least here in Germany. The UHZ65LV.
The Samsung does a really really good job. Games look gorgeous too. I own a PS5 and a Xbox Series X and its really convincing what is produced by the LSP9T.
The funny thing is that I am a big LG fan in regards of the brand. My last few TV sets and also projector was from LG. Samsung as a brand I do not like so much cause I was dissapoonted in the past by their lonetivity of the TV sets a few times.
Still I now ended up with the Samsung cause it overall was the best package for my needs. Still I am quite sure the LG HU85 is a great unit too.


----------



## Aztar35

flam3of4nor said:


> Well there is a kind of successor of the UHZ65. At least here in Germany. The UHZ65LV.


Yes. And some here have commented about the LV. 

It's a 5,000 lumen projector, but without seeing it in action, I don't know whether the lumen increase has impact on color accuracy and/or black levels. It may be a great machine; I just don't know too much about it.


----------



## rigidz

How many of you using LSP9T with UST ALR screens? I have tested with AEON CLR ( Sample screen), and I feel that it is a little dull and not vibrant. I think I am better off with Whitescreen as of now. I am getting a few more Samples of other brands, will update my results. 

Samsung hasn't fixed the Amazon video HDR issue for the native app. I have convinced myself that native apps on Samsung are better/similar compared to Apple Tv / Google Android TV ( stick). Not sure about the frame rate ( I don't see any Judder using native apps); as per Samsung Filmmaker mode, it can process at 24p. Overall I am delighted with Samsung LSP9T.


----------



## ProjectionHead

flam3of4nor said:


> Well there is a kind of successor of the UHZ65. At least here in Germany. The UHZ65LV.


We have that same model as the "successor" here in the states, but I don't really consider it to be so. You are going from a 3,000 lumen unit to a 5,000 lumen unit which will likely be drastically overpowered (and overpriced) for most dedicated HT uses.


----------



## ProjectionHead

Aztar35 said:


> Returning to discussing UST projectors, I've seen the Optoma P1 and the Pro but was not as impressed. I was at a UST comparisons/shootout at Pro AV (what a nice set up you have Brian / @ProjectionHead )


Your new chair will be waiting for your next visit...


----------



## TRobbert

driege said:


> Did you see that at a





JereyWolf said:


> Maybe in the original out of the box settings there was a magenta tint...but it's easily corrected. When I say ignore the color for this video, it's specifically because of the LSP9Ts effect on my phone camera sensor.


----------



## TRobbert

My unit got autoupdated to 1470 from 1402

I see some of you describe update to 1470.3. In the menu is that no3 visible or only 1470? Mine says only 1470.

I do get the more accurate colors however I now see rainbows all the time. Not sure if this is a rainbow though as this is my first projector coming from OLED. I do see some RGB solid color flashes, its not like a ghosting and is not a small thing, more like big bloches of very pure solid red, green and blue colors all at once in a row near mostly light objects on a very dark background scene. Sad findings as reports say less rainbows with new firmware

On 1402 I didnt see this at all for 2 weeks of use. So something new is going on that my eyes dont like. Is it safe / possible to downgrade firmware?


----------



## MDesigns

ProjectionHead said:


> We have that same model as the "successor" here in the states, but I don't really consider it to be so. You are going from a 3,000 lumen unit to a 5,000 lumen unit which will likely be drastically overpowered (and overpriced) for most dedicated HT uses.


Is there more real power in the LV, or has it just lost all the colors to put out more white lumens and look brighter on paper? For example different color wheel?


----------



## flam3of4nor

TRobbert said:


> My unit got autoupdated to 1470 from 1402
> 
> I see some of you describe update to 1470.3. In the menu is that no3 visible or only 1470? Mine says only 1470.
> 
> I do get the more accurate colors however I now see rainbows all the time. Not sure if this is a rainbow though as this is my first projector coming from OLED. I do see some RGB solid color flashes, its not like a ghosting and is not a small thing, more like big bloches of very pure solid red, green and blue colors all at once in a row near mostly light objects on a very dark background scene. Sad findings as reports say less rainbows with new firmware
> 
> On 1402 I didnt see this at all for 2 weeks of use. So something new is going on that my eyes dont like. Is it safe / possible to downgrade firmware?


What you describe sounds exactly like the RBE. Mine was also upgraded to the 1470 version but in my opinion the RBE is exactly the same as before. I wrote already earlier that its not so easy to improve a rbe by a firmware update cause it would mean the speed of the lasers has to be increased and usually they already use the max speed of the hardware. Not sure why you seem to see a stronger RBE now, though.


----------



## Tophe_fr

TRobbert said:


> My unit got autoupdated to 1470 from 1402
> 
> I see some of you describe update to 1470.3. In the menu is that no3 visible or only 1470? Mine says only 1470.


Go to "about this projector" to see full version number.
Just noticed mine got updated to 1470.3 while turned off.
Colours are better. I still see RBE but maybe less.


----------



## Aztar35

MDesigns said:


> Is there more real power in the LV, or has it just lost all the colors to put out more white lumens and look brighter on paper? For example different color wheel?


Hi, I thought I'd jump in for a minute. If the UHZ65LV is the same as the Optoma ZK507, Projector Central said this about the ZK507 in its most accurate color mode:
"the sRGB mode offered contrast, black level, and shadow detail comparable to a sub-$1,000 home theater projector, which is better than many high brightness projectors meant for business and education can manage."
Optoma ZK507-W Business & Education Projector Road Test (projectorcentral.com)

But Projector Central said this about the UHZ65 when comparing with the JVC RS440:
"In a side-by-side comparison, using optimized settings, the two deliver similar levels of contrast which shows in color saturation popping nicely as well as in the sense of three-dimensionality. Neither projector has a decisive edge in contrast. Each one can look incrementally higher in effective contrast than the other depending on variances from scene to scene."
4K Shootout: JVC RS440U vs Optoma UHZ65 (projectorcentral.com)

And that was with the older firmware which I personally thought didn't look as good as with FWv. C17. 😊

Anyway, I read Brian's post above to mean that the LV was more geared toward brightness, probably better suited for a living room. In fact, Projector Central found when you set the ZK507 to get the most accurate color, using sRGB, the lumen output drops to 1,525. Optoma ZK507-W Business & Education Projector Road Test (projectorcentral.com)


----------



## ProjectionHead

MDesigns said:


> Is there more real power in the LV, or has it just lost all the colors to put out more white lumens and look brighter on paper? For example different color wheel?


Great question...let me see what Optoma has to say


----------



## Aztar35

ProjectionHead said:


> Great question...let me see what Optoma has to say


Anyway, it can't touch the LSP9T when it comes to color width.


----------



## DunMunro

ProjectionHead said:


> We have that same model as the "successor" here in the states, but I don't really consider it to be so. You are going from a 3,000 lumen unit to a 5,000 lumen unit which will likely be drastically overpowered (and overpriced) for most dedicated HT uses.


A couple of UHZ65LV reviews:








Optoma UHZ65LV DLP 4K HDR | Pag 1: Introduzione e caratteristiche


Risoluzione 4K, tecnologia DLP, sistema d'illuminamento laser e ben 5.000 lumen di flusso luminoso: queste sono alcune delle caratteristiche più esclusive di un proiettore che promette un rapporto qualità prezzo che ha quasi dell'incredibile



www.avmagazine.it





Optoma UHZ65LV (Test) – audiovision (use google chrome's translate feature for language of choice)

Basically, they accepted a reduced colour gamut (~99% REC709) to increase lumen output.


----------



## Aztar35

TRobbert said:


> My unit got autoupdated to 1470 from 1402
> 
> I see some of you describe update to 1470.3. In the menu is that no3 visible or only 1470? Mine says only 1470.
> 
> I do get the more accurate colors however I now see rainbows all the time. Not sure if this is a rainbow though as this is my first projector coming from OLED. I do see some RGB solid color flashes, its not like a ghosting and is not a small thing, more like big bloches of very pure solid red, green and blue colors all at once in a row near mostly light objects on a very dark background scene. Sad findings as reports say less rainbows with new firmware
> 
> On 1402 I didnt see this at all for 2 weeks of use. So something new is going on that my eyes dont like. Is it safe / possible to downgrade firmware?


Newer is supposed to be better. What may be happening is the new FW may have impacted color, as some have reported reds don't seem as saturated. Your eyes may have gotten so used to the color/pulse on 1402 and just need to acclimate to 1470. Try some other picture modes too.


----------



## flam3of4nor

I have a weird issue... the fan of the LSP9T sometimes turns on even though the unit is turned off! It only turns on for one second and then falls asleep again. It sounds as if it thinks about booting up but then decides to fall asleep again.
Did anybody see this behaviour as well. I realized it first time today.


----------



## JereyWolf

I wanted to ask whether anyone else has noticed that the "Auto" color space setting is effected by the active "custom" color space setting.

In the attachment you can see saturation measurements with with color space set to Custom/DCI-P3 and then switched to "AUTO". Then two more slides with color space set to Custom/bt.2020 and then switched to "Auto".

It seems clear to me that the auto setting is directly impacted by what is selected under the custom setting...but they are not the same.


----------



## Tophe_fr

flam3of4nor said:


> I have a weird issue... the fan of the LSP9T sometimes turns on even though the unit is turned off! It only turns on for one second and then falls asleep again. It sounds as if it thinks about booting up but then decides to fall asleep again.
> Did anybody see this behaviour as well. I realized it first time today.


Maybe cause it is checking for update. Mine got updated while it was turned off.
Try desactivating auto update.



JereyWolf said:


> I wanted to ask whether anyone else has noticed that the "Auto" color space setting is effected by the active "custom" color space setting.
> 
> In the attachment you can see saturation measurements with with color space set to Custom/DCI-P3 and then switched to "AUTO". Then two more slides with color space set to Custom/bt.2020 and then switched to "Auto".
> 
> It seems clear to me that the auto setting is directly impacted by what is selected under the custom setting...but they are not the same.


Are you using new firmware (1470.3) ? 
Because before it, the Auto color space was not working good but i think it's ok now with new firmware.


----------



## JereyWolf

Tophe_fr said:


> Are you using new firmware (1470.3) ?
> Because before it, the Auto color space was not working good but i think it's ok now with new firmware.


Yes, I'm on Firmware 1470.3


----------



## Decker_1985

Hey!
Im having the follow issue.
The picture mode “filmmaker” doesn’t work for me. No changes occurs. Any suggestion? Im in the lastest firm aware 1470.3


----------



## JereyWolf

Decker_1985 said:


> Hey!
> Im having the follow issue.
> The picture mode “filmmaker” doesn’t work for me. No changes occurs. Any suggestion? Im in the lastest firm aware 1470.3


When you switch to the Filmmaker preset, does it look the same as the other presets...or you get no image at all?


----------



## Decker_1985

JereyWolf said:


> When you switch to the Filmmaker preset, does it look the same as the other presets...or you get no image at all?


It looks the same as Movie presets. Doenst change anything. I saw viedos of review on youtube were shows the differences but mine doesn’t. Im just afraid is my unit only or if is overall


----------



## JereyWolf

Decker_1985 said:


> It looks the same as Movie presets. Doenst change anything. I saw viedos of review on youtube were shows the differences but mine doesn’t. Im just afraid is my unit only or if is overall


In the expert settings for Movie and Filmmaker mode, try "reset picture" to make sure they are at their default settings. At default settings, I think they should be noticeably different from each other.


----------



## flam3of4nor

Decker_1985 said:


> It looks the same as Movie presets. Doenst change anything. I saw viedos of review on youtube were shows the differences but mine doesn’t. Im just afraid is my unit only or if is overall


Movie and Fimmaker Preset look similar in the factory settings as far as I recall. You should at least in a dark room see a difference in brightness though. Filmmaker mode has also turned aff all additional bells and whistles of image processing. Depending on the content its not so easy to see it though. Brightness was visible for me right away though.


----------



## newtophoto

Jue Liang said:


> My settings:
> Contrast=35, color temp=warm 2
> 2 point adjustment R gain= -12, G gain=1, B gain=7, R offset=0, G offset=0, B offset=-3
> 
> But please keep in mind that the calibration settings depends on a lot things like sample variation and screen type. My settings may not be the best for your set up.


Hi Jue,

What preset is this one? Standard?


----------



## TimA1

JereyWolf said:


> I wanted to ask whether anyone else has noticed that the "Auto" color space setting is effected by the active "custom" color space setting.
> 
> In the attachment you can see saturation measurements with with color space set to Custom/DCI-P3 and then switched to "AUTO". Then two more slides with color space set to Custom/bt.2020 and then switched to "Auto".
> 
> It seems clear to me that the auto setting is directly impacted by what is selected under the custom setting...but they are not the same.
> 
> View attachment 3093236
> View attachment 3093235
> 
> View attachment 3093234
> View attachment 3093233


Yes, You are absolutely right. I had the same problem even 3 months ago with older firmware. AUTO mode doesn't work the way it has to be. I use Auto (with DCI-P3 lest in custom). Other wise the colors go crazy


----------



## santiagodraco

JereyWolf said:


> I made a video showing a short clip from Black Panther and the difference in motion between the HU85LA and LSP9T. This was about the worst case that I saw with the LG. Each projector has a judder reduction setting of 3. Please ignore the color. The video is available in 4k60


Wow, there's a ton of stutter in the LG compared to the Samsung, or am I missing something? Sorry late to the party here.


----------



## JereyWolf

santiagodraco said:


> Wow, there's a ton of stutter in the LG compared to the Samsung, or am I missing something? Sorry late to the party here.


That was my impression too. This specific example that I filmed was about the worst case that I saw...I just stumbled across it because I use these scenes for testing frequently.


----------



## Kev1000000

Just set up my LSP9T last night and have some first impressions coming from an Optoma P1.

*Samsung LSP9T

PROS:*

As you would imagine, color reproduction is miles better on the Sammy vs the P1. It legitimately looks as close to an actual 120" TV as I have ever seen. It's very impressive.
Brightness is also significantly better, and makes HDR bright content pop.
Sharpness is spot on with the Sammy. It's _almost_ as sharp as a regular TV. I am so incredibly impressed with the sharpness on this thing for being a UST with such a short throw ratio.
Motion handling is top notch, best I've seen from any TV or projector, and this is with judder reduction _off_. It's just buttery smooth with zero judder even without any extra processing.
HDR tone mapping is also top notch. The P1 was all over the place with HDR content. In some movies/shows it was super oversaturated, others way too dark and looked worse than SDR. The Sammy handles HDR very, very well. It doesn't quite provide the extra POP factor, but displays the larger color gamut well. I am just so happy I don't have to fiddle with the contrast/brightness with every movie/show on the Sammy like I had to with the P1 to make HDR work well.
Black levels are much better on the Sammy vs P1, and shadow handling is also much better.
Startup from off is like a whole 1 minute faster on the Sammy. The P1 is terrible in this regard.
Input lag is noticeably less on the Sammy. It actually achieves ~50ms.
The menu system and overall polish (the off effect, audio, etc) are much better than the P1.
Source switching, HDR/SDR switching, etc are all much better on the Sammy.
I actually am not noticing much RBE, even though I am pretty susceptible to it. The P1 has more RBE than the Sammy to my eyes/brain.

*CONS:*

I am experiencing some minor coil whine on the Sammy I didn't get from the P1.
The major issue with the Sammy is the laser speckle. This may be a deal breaker for me, still deciding. But essentially, it's so bad that it ruins the sharpness and overall resolution of the image for me because as the content moves on screen, the speckles don't, and reduces the overall perceived quality, sharpness, and resolution of the image. It's super distracting on my Viewsonic BCP 120 screen. I don't think it's the screen because even against part of my white wall, I can see it, and I never had _any_ speckle with the P1. Aside from the terrible colors on the P1 (relative to the Sammy), the P1 looks better in some cases because of how smooth/clean the image looks with zero speckle.
The white color of unit (and the fact it's glossy) reflects back onto the screen washing out the area directly above. I do not understand why the white trend has picked up with USTs. It's dumb.

*Optoma P1

PROS:*

Zero speckling of any kind, just a super smooth/clean mage.
Very quiet. I pretty much can't hear it from my seating position.
The black color does not reflect back onto the screen, which gives good contrast uniformity.

*CONS:*

Colors are very muted compared to the Sammy. Reds in particular are just not vibrant at all on the P1.
Sharpness is not uniform and wildly off in the corners (top left for me) and even worse, shifts on me as the projector heats up.
Color banding on non-super high bitrate content. This was the reason I started looking at other UST options in the first place. Optoma's handling of lower bitrate content is abysmal, and will results in terribly looking blotchy/banding content.
Black levels are much worse compared to the Sammy.
Startup times are over 1 minute. For a laser projector, this is very poor.
Input lag never gets close to the advertised 55ms, even in game mode.
Takes forever to switch to HDR mode or switch sources.


Overall, the Samsung LSP9T is an awesome projector that is about as close to a TV replacement I have ever seen... with the exception of the laser speckle. It's so distracting I am not sure the rest of the PROS make up for it. I am considering trying out the LSP7T as I hear that has no speckle and should have some of the other benefits when compared to the P1.

I also want to try out the LG HU85LA, but don't want to keep buying and returning things if I don't have to. Not sure what I am going to do yet, but I am going to give the LSP9T a few weeks to see if my brain unsees the speckle somehow. I hope it can, because everything else is perfect on this thing.


----------



## flam3of4nor

Kev1000000 said:


> Just set up my LSP9T last night and have some first impressions coming from an Optoma P1.
> 
> *Samsung LSP9T
> 
> PROS:*
> 
> As you would imagine, color reproduction is miles better on the Sammy vs the P1. It legitimately looks as close to an actual 120" TV as I have ever seen. It's very impressive.
> Brightness is also significantly better, and makes HDR bright content pop.
> Sharpness is spot on with the Sammy. It's _almost_ as sharp as a regular TV. I am so incredibly impressed with the sharpness on this thing for being a UST with such a short throw ratio.
> Motion handling is top notch, best I've seen from any TV or projector, and this is with judder reduction _off_. It's just buttery smooth with zero judder even without any extra processing.
> HDR tone mapping is also top notch. The P1 was all over the place with HDR content. In some movies/shows it was super oversaturated, others way too dark and looked worse than SDR. The Sammy handles HDR very, very well. It doesn't quite provide the extra POP factor, but displays the larger color gamut well. I am just so happy I don't have to fiddle with the contrast/brightness with every movie/show on the Sammy like I had to with the P1 to make HDR work well.
> Black levels are much better on the Sammy vs P1, and shadow handling is also much better.
> Startup from off is like a whole 1 minute faster on the Sammy. The P1 is terrible in this regard.
> Input lag is noticeably less on the Sammy. It actually achieves ~50ms.
> The menu system and overall polish (the off effect, audio, etc) are much better than the P1.
> Source switching, HDR/SDR switching, etc are all much better on the Sammy.
> I actually am not noticing much RBE, even though I am pretty susceptible to it. The P1 has more RBE than the Sammy to my eyes/brain.
> 
> *CONS:*
> 
> I am experiencing some minor coil whine on the Sammy I didn't get from the P1.
> The major issue with the Sammy is the laser speckle. This may be a deal breaker for me, still deciding. But essentially, it's so bad that it ruins the sharpness and overall resolution of the image for me because as the content moves on screen, the speckles don't, and reduces the overall perceived quality, sharpness, and resolution of the image. It's super distracting on my Viewsonic BCP 120 screen. I don't think it's the screen because even against part of my white wall, I can see it, and I never had _any_ speckle with the P1. Aside from the terrible colors on the P1 (relative to the Sammy), the P1 looks better in some cases because of how smooth/clean the image looks with zero speckle.
> The white color of unit (and the fact it's glossy) reflects back onto the screen washing out the area directly above. I do not understand why the white trend has picked up with USTs. It's dumb.
> 
> *Optoma P1
> 
> PROS:*
> 
> Zero speckling of any kind, just a super smooth/clean mage.
> Very quiet. I pretty much can't hear it from my seating position.
> The black color does not reflect back onto the screen, which gives good contrast uniformity.
> 
> *CONS:*
> 
> Colors are very muted compared to the Sammy. Reds in particular are just not vibrant at all on the P1.
> Sharpness is not uniform and wildly off in the corners (top left for me) and even worse, shifts on me as the projector heats up.
> Color banding on non-super high bitrate content. This was the reason I started looking at other UST options in the first place. Optoma's handling of lower bitrate content is abysmal, and will results in terribly looking blotchy/banding content.
> Black levels are much worse compared to the Sammy.
> Startup times are over 1 minute. For a laser projector, this is very poor.
> Input lag never gets close to the advertised 55ms, even in game mode.
> Takes forever to switch to HDR mode or switch sources.
> 
> 
> Overall, the Samsung LSP9T is an awesome projector that is about as close to a TV replacement I have ever seen... with the exception of the laser speckle. It's so distracting I am not sure the rest of the PROS make up for it. I am considering trying out the LSP7T as I hear that has no speckle and should have some of the other benefits when compared to the P1.
> 
> I also want to try out the LG HU85LA, but don't want to keep buying and returning things if I don't have to. Not sure what I am going to do yet, but I am going to give the LSP9T a few weeks to see if my brain unsees the speckle somehow. I hope it can, because everything else is perfect on this thing.


Are you sure this is speckle what you see? Mine has very very minor speckle and in a normal viewing distance you cannot see it. speckle should also move when the image changes. Not sure what you mean.


----------



## rigidz

flam3of4nor said:


> Are you sure this is speckle what you see? Mine has very very minor speckle and in a normal viewing distance you cannot see it. speckle should also move when the image changes. Not sure what you mean.


*Kev1000000,*
Is it possible to photograph Speckle? if yes can you upload a photo please, I am curious. We ( almost 10 to 15 people, whom I have invited for a move night) didn't notice any .


----------



## Kev1000000

I will see if I can get an image/video that shows the speckle tonight. Might be difficult though.


----------



## rigidz

Kev1000000 said:


> I will see if I can get an image/video that shows the speckle tonight. Might be difficult though.


Thank you.
Off topic, Sent a personal message, can you respond if you can please.


----------



## bennutt

Kev1000000 said:


> Just set up my LSP9T last night and have some first impressions coming from an Optoma P1.
> 
> *Samsung LSP9T
> 
> PROS:*
> 
> As you would imagine, color reproduction is miles better on the Sammy vs the P1. It legitimately looks as close to an actual 120" TV as I have ever seen. It's very impressive.
> Brightness is also significantly better, and makes HDR bright content pop.
> Sharpness is spot on with the Sammy. It's _almost_ as sharp as a regular TV. I am so incredibly impressed with the sharpness on this thing for being a UST with such a short throw ratio.
> Motion handling is top notch, best I've seen from any TV or projector, and this is with judder reduction _off_. It's just buttery smooth with zero judder even without any extra processing.
> HDR tone mapping is also top notch. The P1 was all over the place with HDR content. In some movies/shows it was super oversaturated, others way too dark and looked worse than SDR. The Sammy handles HDR very, very well. It doesn't quite provide the extra POP factor, but displays the larger color gamut well. I am just so happy I don't have to fiddle with the contrast/brightness with every movie/show on the Sammy like I had to with the P1 to make HDR work well.
> Black levels are much better on the Sammy vs P1, and shadow handling is also much better.
> Startup from off is like a whole 1 minute faster on the Sammy. The P1 is terrible in this regard.
> Input lag is noticeably less on the Sammy. It actually achieves ~50ms.
> The menu system and overall polish (the off effect, audio, etc) are much better than the P1.
> Source switching, HDR/SDR switching, etc are all much better on the Sammy.
> I actually am not noticing much RBE, even though I am pretty susceptible to it. The P1 has more RBE than the Sammy to my eyes/brain.
> 
> *CONS:*
> 
> I am experiencing some minor coil whine on the Sammy I didn't get from the P1.
> The major issue with the Sammy is the laser speckle. This may be a deal breaker for me, still deciding. But essentially, it's so bad that it ruins the sharpness and overall resolution of the image for me because as the content moves on screen, the speckles don't, and reduces the overall perceived quality, sharpness, and resolution of the image. It's super distracting on my Viewsonic BCP 120 screen. I don't think it's the screen because even against part of my white wall, I can see it, and I never had _any_ speckle with the P1. Aside from the terrible colors on the P1 (relative to the Sammy), the P1 looks better in some cases because of how smooth/clean the image looks with zero speckle.
> The white color of unit (and the fact it's glossy) reflects back onto the screen washing out the area directly above. I do not understand why the white trend has picked up with USTs. It's dumb.
> 
> *Optoma P1
> 
> PROS:*
> 
> Zero speckling of any kind, just a super smooth/clean mage.
> Very quiet. I pretty much can't hear it from my seating position.
> The black color does not reflect back onto the screen, which gives good contrast uniformity.
> 
> *CONS:*
> 
> Colors are very muted compared to the Sammy. Reds in particular are just not vibrant at all on the P1.
> Sharpness is not uniform and wildly off in the corners (top left for me) and even worse, shifts on me as the projector heats up.
> Color banding on non-super high bitrate content. This was the reason I started looking at other UST options in the first place. Optoma's handling of lower bitrate content is abysmal, and will results in terribly looking blotchy/banding content.
> Black levels are much worse compared to the Sammy.
> Startup times are over 1 minute. For a laser projector, this is very poor.
> Input lag never gets close to the advertised 55ms, even in game mode.
> Takes forever to switch to HDR mode or switch sources.
> 
> 
> Overall, the Samsung LSP9T is an awesome projector that is about as close to a TV replacement I have ever seen... with the exception of the laser speckle. It's so distracting I am not sure the rest of the PROS make up for it. I am considering trying out the LSP7T as I hear that has no speckle and should have some of the other benefits when compared to the P1.
> 
> I also want to try out the LG HU85LA, but don't want to keep buying and returning things if I don't have to. Not sure what I am going to do yet, but I am going to give the LSP9T a few weeks to see if my brain unsees the speckle somehow. I hope it can, because everything else is perfect on this thing.


Good compare points...
So it doesn't sound like you have any issues with CA on the Samsung? Your white text doesn't have a red drop shadow?


----------



## Kev1000000

bennutt said:


> Good compare points...
> So it doesn't sound like you have any issues with CA on the Samsung? Your white text doesn't have a red drop shadow?


It does when viewing up close, but at my seating distance (around 9ft), I don't really see it. Text looks mostly white with a super tiny red drop shadow if I look hard enough, but I am so distracted by the speckle, the CA isn't nearly as bad.


----------



## flam3of4nor

Kev1000000 said:


> It does when viewing up close, but at my seating distance (around 9ft), I don't really see it. Text looks mostly white with a super tiny red drop shadow if I look hard enough, but I am so distracted by the speckle, the CA isn't nearly as bad.


Did you try to turn the noise reduction off in the motion compensation menu? it produces some weird speckle like effect for me in some movememt scenes. with it turned off its perfectly fine though.


----------



## TRobbert

Kev1000000 said:


> Just set up my LSP9T last night and have some first impressions coming from an Optoma P1.
> 
> *Samsung LSP9T
> 
> PROS:*
> 
> As you would imagine, color reproduction is miles better on the Sammy vs the P1. It legitimately looks as close to an actual 120" TV as I have ever seen. It's very impressive.
> Brightness is also significantly better, and makes HDR bright content pop.
> Sharpness is spot on with the Sammy. It's _almost_ as sharp as a regular TV. I am so incredibly impressed with the sharpness on this thing for being a UST with such a short throw ratio.
> Motion handling is top notch, best I've seen from any TV or projector, and this is with judder reduction _off_. It's just buttery smooth with zero judder even without any extra processing.
> HDR tone mapping is also top notch. The P1 was all over the place with HDR content. In some movies/shows it was super oversaturated, others way too dark and looked worse than SDR. The Sammy handles HDR very, very well. It doesn't quite provide the extra POP factor, but displays the larger color gamut well. I am just so happy I don't have to fiddle with the contrast/brightness with every movie/show on the Sammy like I had to with the P1 to make HDR work well.
> Black levels are much better on the Sammy vs P1, and shadow handling is also much better.
> Startup from off is like a whole 1 minute faster on the Sammy. The P1 is terrible in this regard.
> Input lag is noticeably less on the Sammy. It actually achieves ~50ms.
> The menu system and overall polish (the off effect, audio, etc) are much better than the P1.
> Source switching, HDR/SDR switching, etc are all much better on the Sammy.
> I actually am not noticing much RBE, even though I am pretty susceptible to it. The P1 has more RBE than the Sammy to my eyes/brain.
> 
> *CONS:*
> 
> I am experiencing some minor coil whine on the Sammy I didn't get from the P1.
> The major issue with the Sammy is the laser speckle. This may be a deal breaker for me, still deciding. But essentially, it's so bad that it ruins the sharpness and overall resolution of the image for me because as the content moves on screen, the speckles don't, and reduces the overall perceived quality, sharpness, and resolution of the image. It's super distracting on my Viewsonic BCP 120 screen. I don't think it's the screen because even against part of my white wall, I can see it, and I never had _any_ speckle with the P1. Aside from the terrible colors on the P1 (relative to the Sammy), the P1 looks better in some cases because of how smooth/clean the image looks with zero speckle.
> The white color of unit (and the fact it's glossy) reflects back onto the screen washing out the area directly above. I do not understand why the white trend has picked up with USTs. It's dumb.
> 
> *Optoma P1
> 
> PROS:*
> 
> Zero speckling of any kind, just a super smooth/clean mage.
> Very quiet. I pretty much can't hear it from my seating position.
> The black color does not reflect back onto the screen, which gives good contrast uniformity.
> 
> *CONS:*
> 
> Colors are very muted compared to the Sammy. Reds in particular are just not vibrant at all on the P1.
> Sharpness is not uniform and wildly off in the corners (top left for me) and even worse, shifts on me as the projector heats up.
> Color banding on non-super high bitrate content. This was the reason I started looking at other UST options in the first place. Optoma's handling of lower bitrate content is abysmal, and will results in terribly looking blotchy/banding content.
> Black levels are much worse compared to the Sammy.
> Startup times are over 1 minute. For a laser projector, this is very poor.
> Input lag never gets close to the advertised 55ms, even in game mode.
> Takes forever to switch to HDR mode or switch sources.
> 
> 
> Overall, the Samsung LSP9T is an awesome projector that is about as close to a TV replacement I have ever seen... with the exception of the laser speckle. It's so distracting I am not sure the rest of the PROS make up for it. I am considering trying out the LSP7T as I hear that has no speckle and should have some of the other benefits when compared to the P1.
> 
> I also want to try out the LG HU85LA, but don't want to keep buying and returning things if I don't have to. Not sure what I am going to do yet, but I am going to give the LSP9T a few weeks to see if my brain unsees the speckle somehow. I hope it can, because everything else is perfect on this thing.



Great review Kev 1000000. For me I also have one issue that Im not sure if thats laser speckle or not. Do you see a similar layer as the the picture below? (The purple color is not there in reality its white, however that grain layer / glimmer effect is, making image softer)

What screen is everybody pairing the Samsung with?


----------



## Kev1000000

TRobbert said:


> Great review Kev 1000000. For me I also have one issue that Im not sure if thats laser speckle or not. Do you see a similar layer as the the picture below? (The purple color is not there in reality its white, however that grain layer / glimmer effect is, making image softer)
> 
> What screen is everybody pairing the Samsung with?
> 
> View attachment 3106880


Yes! That's the speckle I am referring to. For me, as things are moving in the image, the speckle doesn't move with it, and it severely reduces perceived resolution and just makes the image "dirty" to me.


----------



## bennutt

Kev1000000 said:


> Yes! That's the speckle I am referring to. For me, as things are moving in the image, the speckle doesn't move with it, and it severely reduces perceived resolution and just makes the image "dirty" to me.


That was present on both the Samsung and LG projectors. It is _super_ visible on a bright red color. I think it is just the nature of lasers on UST machines.


----------



## TRobbert

Kev1000000 said:


> Yes! That's the speckle I am referring to. For me, as things are moving in the image, the speckle doesn't move with it, and it severely reduces perceived resolution and just makes the image "dirty" to me.


Is your screen an ALR? Same effect for me as you describe, most visible in movement and also lighter parts of the screen.


----------



## Kev1000000

TRobbert said:


> Is your screen an ALR? Same effect for me as you describe, most visible in movement and also lighter parts of the screen.


It is, but I can see the speckle on my wall, so I don't think it has anything to do with the screen. My P1 doesn't show any speckle either on the same screen.


----------



## flam3of4nor

No matter how close I go to the screen or which color I check... I dont have that on my LSP9T. At least with my Apple TV4K.


----------



## flam3of4nor

This is one tile in the netflix app. There is not any of that grain visible no matter what content I view. Or am I missing something?

This is very zoomed in as you can see. You see the pattern of my screen even and of course the CA.


----------



## TRobbert

flam3of4nor said:


> No matter how close I go to the screen or which color I check... I dont have that on my LSP9T. At least with my Apple TV4K.


Flam3of4nor: what screen do you use?

See attached picture of the settings menu, its from 1m distance taken at night. Ive used a 4k Sony camera on a tripod so no handshake blur. Should be easy for you to take a similar photo and compare? If the white solid parts for you doesnt have the speckle then probably its a screen issue. I can see this speckle "dirt" from 5m distance so its clearly on screen in my case, I dont need to zoom to find it, its there from the sofa.

I dont think I have the speckle on the white painted wall, however the paint structure gets amlified making a slight grain of its own, projeted on wall the picture feels smoother than on the ALR screen.

Maybe the Samsung is super sensitive regarding what screen you pair it with. Perhaps the ALR screen structure interfer with it somehow?

Would be good to know what screen you use if you dont have this issue.


----------



## TRobbert

bennutt said:


> That was present on both the Samsung and LG projectors. It is _super_ visible on a bright red color. I think it is just the nature of lasers on UST machines.


What screen do you use? Could you see it from distance of 3m?


----------



## flam3of4nor

TRobbert said:


> Flam3of4nor: what screen do you use?
> 
> See attached picture of the settings menu, its from 1m distance taken at night. Ive used a 4k Sony camera on a tripod so no handshake blur. Should be easy for you to take a similar photo and compare? If the white solid parts for you doesnt have the speckle then probably its a screen issue. I can see this speckle "dirt" from 5m distance so its clearly on screen in my case, I dont need to zoom to find it, its there from the sofa.
> 
> I dont think I have the speckle on the white painted wall, however the paint structure gets amlified making a slight grain of its own, projeted on wall the picture feels smoother than on the ALR screen.
> 
> Maybe the Samsung is super sensitive regarding what screen you pair it with. Perhaps the ALR screen structure interfer with it somehow?
> 
> Would be good to know what screen you use if you dont have this issue.


I can try to do this exact shot later. I used an iphone 12pro to take the picture but i think I dont have this effect. I can try to do a shot with my Panasonic GH5 but I dont think that the iphone is the problem. I really checked it with several sequences and from many different distances and there is nothing visible. I use an old screen which I built myself several years ago. Its a matt white with 1.0 gain. I only use it as a temporarily solution till our shops ipen again (still closed due to corona). Then I wanted to buy a CLR screen. Of course it would be good to know if they introduce this speckle... Then I would rather use a regular white one instead.


----------



## flam3of4nor

Oh and I can also see it with the pictures posted here. It looks bad... like film grain.

But my Sammy doesnt show it. Maybe its also some setting?


----------



## TRobbert

flam3of4nor said:


> I can try to do this exact shot later. I used an iphone 12pro to take the picture but i think I dont have this effect. I can try to do a shot with my Panasonic GH5 but I dont think that the iphone is the problem. I really checked it with several sequences and from many different distances and there is nothing visible. I use an old screen which I built myself several years ago. Its a matt white with 1.0 gain. I only use it as a temporarily solution till our shops ipen again (still closed due to corona). Then I wanted to buy a CLR screen. Of course it would be good to know if they introduce this speckle... Then I would rather use a regular white one instead.


Yeah you are good with the Iphone, I have the Iphone 12 Pro Max and it gives similar quality, just wanted to make sure I eliminate that as a possible factor.

Interesting regarding the white screen. Anyone with success pairing the Samsung with an ALR screen in here? An ALR makes wonder in most other regards. The gain shouldnt be the problem, all I've read points to the higher the gain the more possible visibility of glimmer effect? I guess you see the screen structure that makes inference.

Regardings settings I have played with all profiles the last week. As it is visible most on the lighter parts on the screen the lighter you drive the Samsung the more you can see it. Sharpness is a big no no.


----------



## flam3of4nor

TRobbert said:


> Yeah you are good with the Iphone, I have the Iphone 12 Pro Max and it gives similar quality, just wanted to make sure I eliminate that as a possible factor.
> 
> Interesting regarding the white screen. Anyone with success pairing the Samsung with an ALR screen in here? An ALR makes wonder in most other regards. The gain shouldnt be the problem, all I've read points to the higher the gain the more possible visibility of glimmer effect? I guess you see the screen structure that makes inference.
> 
> Regardings settings I have played with all profiles the last week. As it is visible most on the lighter parts on the screen the lighter you drive the Samsung the more you can see it. Sharpness is a big no no.


Just in case... Here is a picture with my Panasonic GH5. There is also no specle visible. Only thing you can see is the structure of the screen when you go very close.


----------



## flam3of4nor

Here a bit more cropped.

As I said... its not there. I would see it. I am very sensitive on all issues with screens and images.
So either not all Samsung units are the same or its the ALR screens

What screen do you have?


----------



## TRobbert

flam3of4nor said:


> Here a bit more cropped.
> 
> As I said... its not there. I would see it. I am very sensitive on all issues with screens and images.
> So either not all Samsung units are the same or its the ALR screens
> 
> What screen do you have?


That looks perfectly smooth, like it should look, Ive got 120" Vividstorm ALR UST screen. My unit is EU unit so should be the same as yours.


----------



## flam3of4nor

TRobbert said:


> That looks perfectly smooth, like it should look, Ive got 120" Vividstorm ALR UST screen. My unit is EU unit so should be the same as yours.


Maybe it makes sense to order just a tryout piece of a regular white 1.0 screen and hold it in front of the ALR screen on a position where you see the sparkle. If its the screen it should vanish then.


----------



## MDesigns

Guys, try to compare the screen to a standard white print paper. That is easy to do and shouldn't cause any speckle.


----------



## JereyWolf

Do you guys think that perception of speckle, or a sensitivity to it, could account for differences in what people are reporting to view (similar to RBE)?
I've read many opinions that speckle is only noticeable within a few feet of the screen. I sit 16 feet from a 120" CLR screen and I can clearly see speckle in areas of bright, solid color.


----------



## flam3of4nor

JereyWolf said:


> Do you guys think that perception of speckle, or a sensitivity to it, could account for differences in what people are reporting to view (similar to RBE)?
> I've read many opinions that speckle is only noticeable within a few feet of the screen. I sit 16 feet from a 120" CLR screen and I can clearly see speckle in areas of bright, solid color.


I am not sure. At least on the pictures taken here it is visible as well. Since it’s possible to take a picture I doubt that it is at least just about the sensitivity of a certain person...


----------



## Kev1000000

flam3of4nor said:


> Here a bit more cropped.
> 
> As I said... its not there. I would see it. I am very sensitive on all issues with screens and images.
> So either not all Samsung units are the same or its the ALR screens
> 
> What screen do you have?


Wow, that looks great! If my unit + screen combo looked like that, I would be sooo happy 

Which screen are you using? I absolutely cannot switch to a standard white screen, as this is in my living room, where the CLR screen works wonders.

I do notice speckle on my white wall though. It's less pronounced, but not as smooth as your pic you posted.


----------



## flam3of4nor

Kev1000000 said:


> Wow, that looks great! If my unit + screen combo looked like that, I would be sooo happy
> 
> Which screen are you using? I absolutely cannot switch to a standard white screen, as this is in my living room, where the CLR screen works wonders.
> 
> I do notice speckle on my white wall though. It's less pronounced, but not as smooth as your pic you posted.


Actually I also want to buy a ALR Screen soon. Now I am unsure after what you guys reported here  I ordered now a sample from Elitescreen CLR to check it.
Since my screen was built myself I am not 100% sure anymore which material I bought back them. As far as I remember it was a Elitescreen Cinewhite. Even though an old one. It was before the 4k age when I bought it.


----------



## Tallon

Forgive me for maybe asking a dumb question, but there isn't a piece of clear protective film on the projector that hasn't been removed, is there? It's the first thing I think when seeing that graininess. I won't have my own projector for a few months yet to know how it was packed.


----------



## ApeEx

Kev1000000 said:


> Yes! That's the speckle I am referring to. For me, as things are moving in the image, the speckle doesn't move with it, and it severely reduces perceived resolution and just makes the image "dirty" to me.


Just out of curiosity, are you using the latest firmware, 1470.3? I'm quite sure I saw a reduction in the speckles after the update.


----------



## Kev1000000

ApeEx said:


> Just out of curiosity, are you using the latest firmware, 1470.3? I'm quite sure I saw a reduction in the speckles after the update.


I am running 1470.3, updated immediately out of the box, so I have nothing to really compare it to. I heard that update helped the RBE issues moreso than speckles, and I certainly don't notice much RBE at all. Less than my P1, so maybe the 1470.3 update significantly helped RBE?


----------



## flam3of4nor

Kev1000000 said:


> I am running 1470.3, updated immediately out of the box, so I have nothing to really compare it to. I heard that update helped the RBE issues moreso than speckles, and I certainly don't notice much RBE at all. Less than my P1, so maybe the 1470.3 update significantly helped RBE?


I did not see any change in the RBE after the update. I think the people here just got used to it. RBE gets better over time when you get used to it. At some point you almost dont see it anymore.


----------



## ApeEx

flam3of4nor said:


> I did not see any change in the RBE after the update. I think the people here just got used to it. RBE gets better over time when you get used to it. At some point you almost dont see it anymore.


This was the was case for me, when first used the projector I actually got nauseous from the RBE, but after a few weeks I stopped seeing it. I found that animated movies have much less RBE and can help you get used to it (watch Into the Spiderverse in 4k, it's stunning). 
I still have speckles but only only on large white areas or large areas of solid brighter colors, I wonder if a screen or calibration could fix it.


----------



## flam3of4nor

ApeEx said:


> This was the was case for me, when first used the projector I actually got nauseous from the RBE, but after a few weeks I stopped seeing it. I found that animated movies have much less RBE and can help you get used to it (watch Into the Spiderverse in 4k, it's stunning).
> I still have speckles but only only on large white areas or large areas of solid brighter colors, I wonder if a screen or calibration could fix it.


I am really not sure why it occurs. It was also written in most tests that the Samsung has this speckle in bright large areas. 
Mine does not have it though. Dont have a clue why.


----------



## TRobbert

flam3of4nor said:


> I am really not sure why it occurs. It was also written in most tests that the Samsung has this speckle in bright large areas.
> Mine does not have it though. Dont have a clue why.


I agree RBE is alright on 1470.3 after you get use to it I dont see it much either. I did find the ALR screen did improve RBE further, I noticed that when I went back to test on the wall.

flam3of4nor: What version number does your unit have? Its printed on the bottom. Mine says CA01. Your unit seams to be blessed.


----------



## TRobbert

Tallon said:


> Forgive me for maybe asking a dumb question, but there isn't a piece of clear protective film on the projector that hasn't been removed, is there? It's the first thing I think when seeing that graininess. I won't have my own projector for a few months yet to know how it was packed.


I did a complete clean of the projetor again, no protection stuffs there and same speckle. The glass seams to be a real dustcollector. Would have been wonderful if there was an easy fix.


----------



## flam3of4nor

TRobbert said:


> I agree RBE is alright on 1470.3 after you get use to it I dont see it much either. I did find the ALR screen did improve RBE further, I noticed that when I went back to test on the wall.
> 
> flam3of4nor: What version number does your unit have? Its printed on the bottom. Mine says CA01. Your unit seams to be blessed.


I have a little problem seeing the bottom cause i would have to lift it up and unplug it


----------



## Genzi

My LSP9T is now fully assembled and I am very satisfied! the picture is a 135 inch ALR canvas!


----------



## flam3of4nor

Genzi said:


> My LSP9T is now fully assembled and I am very satisfied! the picture is a 135 inch ALR canvas!
> View attachment 3107267
> View attachment 3107268


Cool! Congratulations! Where did you get a 135inch screen by the way? I see all time only 120inch max?


----------



## flam3of4nor

ApeEx said:


> This was the was case for me, when first used the projector I actually got nauseous from the RBE, but after a few weeks I stopped seeing it. I found that animated movies have much less RBE and can help you get used to it (watch Into the Spiderverse in 4k, it's stunning).
> I still have speckles but only only on large white areas or large areas of solid brighter colors, I wonder if a screen or calibration could fix it.


Yes its normal for RBE that it is perceived stronger in the beginning when you re not used to it. Well and it is of course also different depending on the content you watched.
I think a bit speckle is completely normal with triple laser projectors but do you also have it like some others here where you always habe such a grain in the image or is it just happening from time to time in brighter areas when a scene shows a movement?


----------



## tnaik4

Hello guys.

I m considering this projector but for a fully treated room, does it work on a normal unity gain white surface without any annoying artifact ?

I will probably place it on top of my centre speaker.

Also has anyone measure the native contrast and calibrated lumens ? I cant find anywhere if it has any sort of dynamic dimming to improve contrast, there is all kind of misinformation on the web so i thought i would ask the owners directly. 

Thank you


----------



## flam3of4nor

tnaik4 said:


> Hello guys.
> 
> I m considering this projector but for a fully treated room, does it work on a normal unity gain white surface without any annoying artifact ?
> 
> I will probably place it on top of my centre speaker.
> 
> Also has anyone measure the native contrast and calibrated lumens ? I cant find anywhere if it has any sort of dynamic dimming to improve contrast, there is all kind of misinformation on the web so i thought i would ask the owners directly.
> 
> Thank you


Native contrast around 2000:1 and calibrated brightness 2600 ANSI Lumens according to a German magazine.


----------



## tnaik4

flam3of4nor said:


> Native contrast around 2000:1 and calibrated brightness 2600 ANSI Lumens according to a German magazine.


Any idea if it has a way to lower light output for a dedicated room?
Also i cant find a definitive answer if it has a dynamic dimming feature .


----------



## ApeEx

flam3of4nor said:


> Yes its normal for RBE that it is perceived stronger in the beginning when you re not used to it. Well and it is of course also different depending on the content you watched.
> I think a bit speckle is completely normal with triple laser projectors but do you also have it like some others here where you always habe such a grain in the image or is it just happening from time to time in brighter areas when a scene shows a movement?


The speckles I can see at viewing distance are only in large areas of solid white, or bright colors, so for general use it doesn't really matter. Motion doesn't cause speckles for me. I'm not able to get speckles to show up in pictures







, and I've read on cine4home that our eyes are partly responsible for seeing them. I'm projecting onto a bare white wall, and I'm under the impression the wall's surface and color makes it worse.


----------



## Kev1000000

ApeEx said:


> The speckles I can see at viewing distance are only in large areas of solid white, or bright colors, so for general use it doesn't really matter. Motion doesn't cause speckles for me. I'm not able to get speckles to show up in pictures
> View attachment 3107609
> , and I've read on cine4home that our eyes are partly responsible for seeing them. I'm projecting onto a bare white wall, and I'm under the impression the wall's surface and color makes it worse.


Yeah, I see zero speckling there. That looks very clean.

Note, I did shoot the image against my pure white wall and saw essentially the same speckling as I did with my screen. I am really starting to question if there are different units with varying degrees of this.


----------



## flam3of4nor

tnaik4 said:


> Any idea if it has a way to lower light output for a dedicated room?
> Also i cant find a definitive answer if it has a dynamic dimming feature .


Well in the standard settings not all modes have the same brightness/light output. The filmmaker mode is significantly darker than for example the dynamic mode. I think it also works fine in a dedicated room. Still the question would be if you would not be better of with a long throw projector...

In my tests I would say that the Samsung does not use any form of laser dimming.


----------



## ApeEx

Kev1000000 said:


> Yeah, I see zero speckling there. That looks very clean.
> 
> Note, I did shoot the image against my pure white wall and saw essentially the same speckling as I did with my screen. I am really starting to question if there are different units with varying degrees of this.


There definitely was speckles in person, I was trying to illustrate how it doesn't show up in pictures using my phone's camera. But it's a good depiction of the CA, you can see it if you zoom in, but not at normal size. Similar to normal viewing distance.


----------



## tnaik4

flam3of4nor said:


> Well in the standard settings not all modes have the same brightness/light output. The filmmaker mode is significantly darker than for example the dynamic mode. I think it also works fine in a dedicated room. Still the question would be if you would not be better of with a long throw projector...
> 
> In my tests I would say that the Samsung does not use any form of laser dimming.


I cant think of any long throw projector who has 100% bt2020 and 2500 calibrated lumens.
I m into gaming too so i m intrigued by the high ligh output and extreem vibrant colora.
I do have other projectors for different content though


----------



## flam3of4nor

tnaik4 said:


> I cant think of any long throw projector who has 100% bt2020 and 2500 calibrated lumens.
> I m into gaming too so i m intrigued by the high ligh output and extreem vibrant colora.
> I do have other projectors for different content though


I am also a gamer and the colors look really stunning. Also the input lag is good. Even though there is of course long throw projectors with a lower input lag. 
With the colors I agree. You ll have a hard time finding anything comparable. Black levels are better with DILA or SXRD options though.


----------



## baumi147

Hi,

I have had an LSP9T with firmware 1402 for 3 weeks, which is currently the most up-to-date in Europe.

I previously had a Philips HDP2510 and have always been very satisfied with the picture. But I would not have believed that you can get so much out of the Lsp9t.

In the attachment a few pictures if someone is interested.

I have a dark basement room with a white Gain 1.0 screen with a 133 "image size. All around the screen I have black fleece (you can see it in the photos)

My impression: The black level of this projector is just as bad as that of the Philips. (Is probably the standard for projector) But the resolution, colors, etc. are uniquely beautiful and brilliant. I would never have believed that you can get so much out of here. Sure, I can live well with the black level in a dark room, I don't buy another screen, but everything else is a dream.

on the subject of speckle: You can see it especially with the color red. Especially with Super Mario, see pictures this is very pronounced. But I have to say, after a couple of weeks you won't notice it anymore. The eye gets used to it. Now I only see it when I go very close to the screen. Otherwise I'm about 3 meters away from the screen.

The brightness is enormous. When I play Nindento, I even leave the lights on in the room for the children. The LSP9T is more than bright enough.

In short, I am more than thrilled and can certainly recommend this projector to many people.

I'm a gamer too and I have to say that the input lag is just as good as with the old Philips and is not a problem for me or the children with any game


Sorry for the photo quality, unfortunately I don't have a camera or a high-end cell phone

Best regards
Baumi


----------



## MDesigns

Here is a good picture of different screen types, where you can see how some sparkles and some not. With those sparkly screens I can see how those would enhance the Laser Speckle even more. 









No Sparkle Darkest Grey Motorized


Looking motorized Da-Lite Parallax 0.8 alternatives, possibly without the top/bottom light rejection. No sparkle/gain artifacting, darkest shade of grey possible. Anyone hear of anything new? The shade of the Gerreit Optiblack / Strong MDI Blackview would be amazing. sparkle similar...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## flam3of4nor

MDesigns said:


> Here is a good picture of different screen types, where you can see how some sparkles and some not. With those sparkly screens I can see how those would enhance the Laser Speckle even more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No Sparkle Darkest Grey Motorized
> 
> 
> Looking motorized Da-Lite Parallax 0.8 alternatives, possibly without the top/bottom light rejection. No sparkle/gain artifacting, darkest shade of grey possible. Anyone hear of anything new? The shade of the Gerreit Optiblack / Strong MDI Blackview would be amazing. sparkle similar...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


Most sparkling screens are high contrast screens and should not be used with UST projectors on general cause they generate a hotspot in the lower middle. 
Best is a CLR (Ceiling light reduction) Screen


----------



## tnaik4

The only thing keeping me from getting this projector is the CA issues everyone is experiencing.


----------



## flam3of4nor

tnaik4 said:


> The only thing keeping me from getting this projector is the CA issues everyone is experiencing.


In my opinion the CA is not a big deal.


----------



## TRobbert

baumi147 to my eye your setup looks very very good. Pure solid Colors.

Seams like we have a large variation of speckle. Some dont see anything, some see it in the reds, some see it all over the place. Is there a unit lottery going on?

Interesting regarding the red, thats the least bad color for me, its just that my setup dont like white, yellow, blue, purple 

Did play with Xbox Series X and Dirt 5, took some shots.


----------



## TRobbert

Here is the Attachments


----------



## ApeEx

flam3of4nor said:


> Maybe it makes sense to order just a tryout piece of a regular white 1.0 screen and hold it in front of the ALR screen on a position where you see the sparkle. If its the screen it should vanish then.





flam3of4nor said:


> I am really not sure why it occurs. It was also written in most tests that the Samsung has this speckle in bright large areas.
> Mine does not have it though. Dont have a clue why.


This actually reminded me that a have a really old white pull down Da-lite screen which I never use anymore, I tried projecting on it and the speckles were almost completely gone! I held up a white paper, and the speckles clearly show up on it, just like on the wall. Try holding a piece of white paper over your screen on the menus and let me know if you see speckles


----------



## flam3of4nor

ApeEx said:


> This actually reminded me that a have a really old white pull down Da-lite screen which I never use anymore, I tried projecting on it and the speckles were almost completely gone! I held up a white paper, and the speckles clearly show up on it, just like on the wall. Try holding a piece of white paper over your screen on the menus and let me know if you see speckles


I just tried it with a white paper and also there i do not have this speckle or grain what we saw on some units in the menu.
I get the next dat a sample of the elitescreen clr and will check how it looks with that. Till now its impossible for me to reproduce this speckle/grain some have in the overall picture.


----------



## Cremer Lee

share one youtube video for the LSP9T with the ALR Projector Screen


----------



## flam3of4nor

TRobbert said:


> Here is the Attachments


Your projector really does not look ok. I do not think that this is speckle. It is all over the image...
I by the way tried out now also the Elitescreen CLR (with a sample). I also do not have the speckle or grain you have with that.


----------



## Shoob

Is there a high altitude fan mode that you can turn off and on in the menu? I’m in Denver, over 5000 feet, and high-altitude mode is often offensively loud on projectors, so has anybody heard how much noise they make when in high altitudes?


----------



## Genzi

This mode exists and you can toggle it on or off. When switched on, the device is very loud


----------



## Holle23

My projector makes a very loud, uncomfortable operating noise. It makes a fairly high pitched sound.

I measure (with the Iphone) at least 42 Db directly on the device. 

Is this volume normal?


----------



## flam3of4nor

Holle23 said:


> My projector makes a very loud, uncomfortable operating noise. It makes a fairly high pitched sound.
> 
> I measure (with the Iphone) at least 42 Db directly on the device.
> 
> Is this volume normal?


Directly measured at the projector it shows 37DB on top and 36DB on both sides where the air flow goes in and out. Measured with an App. I have a highly pitched sound during startup but it almost completely vanishes after a few seconds.
Hard to tell if your sound is normal or not. Technical devices usually do not perform exactly the same in regards of fan noises, coil wine and so on.


----------



## Holle23

Unfortunately, the high note at the beginning does not go away.

Thanks for measuring!


----------



## Minnon

Does anyone game on this projector?


----------



## 1nquisitive

Does anyone know if Samsung explicitly noted RBE improvements with their newer firmwares? Some users are posting that they see improvements, just curious if Samsung called this out, in release notes or something.


----------



## ApeEx

Minnon said:


> Does anyone game on this projector?


I do, I've used a Switch and a Series X with my projector, it's amazing. I personally don't have any issues with input lag, and I don't even use gaming mode. I've played through Super Mario Galaxy, Halo Reach, Gears of war 4, and in the middle of Gears 5 (single player campaigns).
The projector is pretty smart, it recognizes a Switch is plugged in and a Switch tile shows up in the home menu.


----------



## ApeEx

1nquisitive said:


> Does anyone know if Samsung explicitly noted RBE improvements with their newer firmwares? Some users are posting that they see improvements, just curious if Samsung called this out, in release notes or something.


I'm not aware of any release notes for any firmware updates so far. 
Personally, I stopped seeing RBE before the latest update, but it took several weeks to adjust from my last projector, an Epson 5040UB.


----------



## JereyWolf

Minnon said:


> Does anyone game on this projector?


I use it for PC gaming. Works great. Input lag is not really noticeable for me.


----------



## ACE844

A new review: Test Samsung The Premiere SP-LSP9TFA : l’avis de Grégory. – – Le Blog de PHC –


----------



## bblackbu

I use it gaming with my PS4 (eventually PS5 whenever I can get my hands on one) and I love it. Automatically switches into game mode when I change the source to the PS4, and I have yet to experience any sort of noticeable lag. I am not a hardcore FPS gamer, (mostly MMO/RPG) but I do place some FPS and it all looks great to me. Combined with a 110" floor-rising ALR screen from VividStorm and I am loving the new set-up. Strongly recommend.


----------



## newtophoto

Quick question regarding projector screen installations. Are they easy to move? I want to get this soon, but also might move in a year or two. How much of a hassle is it to remove from the wall and reinstall?


----------



## tnaik4

bblackbu said:


> I use it gaming with my PS4 (eventually PS5 whenever I can get my hands on one) and I love it. Automatically switches into game mode when I change the source to the PS4, and I have yet to experience any sort of noticeable lag. I am not a hardcore FPS gamer, (mostly MMO/RPG) but I do place some FPS and it all looks great to me. Combined with a 110" floor-rising ALR screen from VividStorm and I am loving the new set-up. Strongly recommend.


Other than input lag, how does it look with gaming, with all that brightness it must look amazing, is CA visible on text while gaming ?


----------



## ApeEx

tnaik4 said:


> Other than input lag, how does it look with gaming, with all that brightness it must look amazing, is CA visible on text while gaming ?


Most people on this forum, myself included, don't see any CA at a normal distance. 
Look at these pictures taken at different distances, the real close up one where you can see the pixles shows the CA from a few inches away, the "no signal" picture was a few feet away, CA is only visible when you zoom in, and the Xbox settings picture is from slightly farther. Hope this helps.


----------



## bennutt

ApeEx said:


> Most people on this forum, myself included, don't see any CA at a normal distance.
> Look at these pictures taken at different distances, the real close up one where you can see the pixles shows the CA from a few inches away, the "no signal" picture was a few feet away, CA is only visible when you zoom in, and the Xbox settings picture is from slightly farther. Hope this helps.
> View attachment 3115553
> View attachment 3115555
> View attachment 3115556


And to me... I see it in every one of these images including the white Microsoft shop logo. Kills me that a 4K projector of this caliber ends up blurring the text. Oddly, the closer No Signal sample looks a bit better here than the Xbox settings further away.


----------



## ApeEx

bennutt said:


> And to me... I see it in every one of these images including the white Microsoft shop logo. Kills me that a 4K projector of this caliber ends up blurring the text. Oddly, the closer No Signal sample looks a bit better here than the Xbox settings further away.


The shop logo is inches away from the camera and it's not cropped, so you're looking at pixles, if you can see that 10 feet away you'd be able to see a screen door effect. The other two images were taken at different times so the settings on the camera were different, they're also both cropped. 

Here's a another close picture with the pixles slightly more focused, (it was taken on a phone, macro pictures aren't great), open it and zoom in, the CA is barely a pixles wide. This is invisible at even half the normal viewing distance.


----------



## TRobbert

ApeEx said:


> d I don't even use gaming mode. I've played through Super Mario Galaxy, Halo Reach, Gears of war 4, and





flam3of4nor said:


> Your projector really does not look ok. I do not think that this is speckle. It is all over the image...
> I by the way tried out now also the Elitescreen CLR (with a sample). I also do not have the speckle or grain you have with that.


I have now a second Samsung unit in my house and can confirm that the new one doesnt have this grainy screen effect (missalignment of the lasers?) So the Vividstorm ALR was not at fault here. The new unit is WAY WAY better than the old unit, this is absolutely a fine picture, now I feel like its 4k resolution, very detailed picture without that grain, Im happy.

Now the new unit has a nasty unpleasent sounding noise instead.  The old one was whisper quite (no high pitch noise at all) Sad that Samsung quality control seams to be.... out of control. Sounds like some of you have got a unit with the same bad noise? My old unit has FNA in its serial the new one has FNB. Anyone with a serial of FNB that is normal noisy?


----------



## TRobbert

Holle23 said:


> My projector makes a very loud, uncomfortable operating noise. It makes a fairly high pitched sound.
> 
> I measure (with the Iphone) at least 42 Db directly on the device.
> 
> Is this volume normal?



My second Samsung unit in house does have the same unpleasent operating noise as you describe. High/medium pitched at a strong amplitude. Mine is fine for the first 5 seconds after boot up when just the side fans spins with an acceptable swooosh sound. After that 5 seconds some high / medium pitched sound starts constantly that annoyes me to hell.

I did make meassurement with app on Iphone I do get 43 DB directly on it, on the right side I do get 55 DB. My ambience noise is 29/30A in the house. Holle 23, how much DB do you meassure on the side of your unit?

I suspect the back fan is not good.

Its not coilwine, it has a little of that if I place my ear to the side of the unit but from 1m I cant hear that anymore. This pitched sound I can hear from 5m in the house  and also during movie dialouge playing at high volume.

I feel a relief when I turn the unit of. My first unit was whisper quite (actually it was perfect regarding noise) just made a pleasent swoosh and could be on constanly no problem (sadly that unit had a picture quality flaw) Has Samsung changed fan supplier?


----------



## Kev1000000

TRobbert said:


> I have now a second Samsung unit in my house and can confirm that the new one doesnt have this grainy screen effect (missalignment of the lasers?) So the Vividstorm ALR was not at fault here. The new unit is WAY WAY better than the old unit, this is absolutely a fine picture, now I feel like its 4k resolution, very detailed picture without that grain, Im happy.
> 
> Now the new unit has a nasty unpleasent sounding noise instead.  The old one was whisper quite (no high pitch noise at all) Sad that Samsung quality control seams to be.... out of control. Sounds like some of you have got a unit with the same bad noise? My old unit has FNA in its serial the new one has FNB. Anyone with a serial of FNB that is normal noisy?


The laser grain doesn't exist on your replacement unit? Oh man, don't tempt me to try this projector again... It would have been nearly perfect if there were no laser grain


----------



## flam3of4nor

TRobbert said:


> I have now a second Samsung unit in my house and can confirm that the new one doesnt have this grainy screen effect (missalignment of the lasers?) So the Vividstorm ALR was not at fault here. The new unit is WAY WAY better than the old unit, this is absolutely a fine picture, now I feel like its 4k resolution, very detailed picture without that grain, Im happy.
> 
> Now the new unit has a nasty unpleasent sounding noise instead.  The old one was whisper quite (no high pitch noise at all) Sad that Samsung quality control seams to be.... out of control. Sounds like some of you have got a unit with the same bad noise? My old unit has FNA in its serial the new one has FNB. Anyone with a serial of FNB that is normal noisy?


Some people mentioned an unpleasant sound. Since everybody has a different opinion on what soundlevel is too loud or unpleasant it is hard to tell. I can hear the Samsung from my viewing distance but I sit relatively close (roughly 2.8m) away. The noise is not disturbing though. Its cust a constant sound of the airflow but not highly pitched or anything. To me the soundlevel is pleasant. Though I had already more silent projectors before. I would say its average in regards of noise level for a projector. Not great but not bad either.


----------



## TRobbert

Kev1000000 said:


> The laser grain doesn't exist on your replacement unit? Oh man, don't tempt me to try this projector again... It would have been nearly perfect if there were no laser grain


Well, it doesnt look like my oled regarding solidness it does not, and not as solid in the whites as some lucky members have shown. In light solid parts there are a slight trace of the speckle in the new unit, however during movements that speckle stays in those areas and movement clarity isnt effected to my eyes anymore. I think that was the worst with the old unit, that when something on screen moved the picture got noticeable grainy and ruined, the grain was more static all over the place than just in the highlights.


----------



## TRobbert

flam3of4nor said:


> Some people mentioned an unpleasant sound. Since everybody has a different opinion on what soundlevel is too loud or unpleasant it is hard to tell. I can hear the Samsung from my viewing distance but I sit relatively close (roughly 2.8m) away. The noise is not disturbing though. Its cust a constant sound of the airflow but not highly pitched or anything. To me the soundlevel is pleasant. Though I had already more silent projectors before. I would say its average in regards of noise level for a projector. Not great but not bad either.


Your experience seams to be the exact same for me with the first unit. Ony the constant air fan sound in a pleasent way. Im 3,2m to sweet spot. It pussles me that the second one sound so different. I think the constant air from fans isnt the problem, they start before that new unpleasent noise is kicking in. Its like this unit has an extra sound on top of the air blowing sound, probably coming from electronics making the whining that is constant and rather loud. Unit one was surprisingly good and the second surprisingly bad.


----------



## 2escapereality

I'm just setting up my projector.
Sometimes when I turn on the projector from a cold start, it shows this screen with the rgb checkerboard pattern. I still hear sounds. Nothing I do with the remote changes the display.
If I turn off and turn on again, it starts up fine.
Anyone know what's going on?


----------



## santiagodraco

Anyone else have an issue where you can no longer bring up the "Info" panel (triple dots, info)? When I do it just dismisses the menu and no info panel appears.


----------



## flam3of4nor

santiagodraco said:


> Anyone else have an issue where you can no longer bring up the "Info" panel (triple dots, info)? When I do it just dismisses the menu and no info panel appears.


Well the Info does not work for me when I use the inbuild apps. When I use it on external sources it works and shows what type of signal is currently displayed.


----------



## IrishLord82

Has anyone had their unit professionally calibrated? If so, did it make a significant difference? I was one of the first to get the Samsung DSP9T back in November. I've had none of the issues mentioned in this forum. I used the Lack TV bench and VividStorm 120" S Pro Electric Tab-Tension Floor Screen mounted on the Lack. My Panasonic 820 is connected to my Yamaha A-5200 along with my Cox Cable box. I use the "Filmaker" mode and my picture is almost as good as my new LG 77" OLED. One comment I would make based on the pictures I've seen posted. Most of the speakers shown are too close to the screen. Dr. Michael Kelly of Aerial Acoustics told me that all speakers should be al least 3 meters forward of the screen/wall. When the speakers are aliened that way, the center speaker can be put on a stand in front of the Samsung with no problems. Just a thought.


----------



## santiagodraco

TRobbert said:


> I have now a second Samsung unit in my house and can confirm that the new one doesnt have this grainy screen effect (missalignment of the lasers?) So the Vividstorm ALR was not at fault here. The new unit is WAY WAY better than the old unit, this is absolutely a fine picture, now I feel like its 4k resolution, very detailed picture without that grain, Im happy.
> 
> Now the new unit has a nasty unpleasent sounding noise instead.  The old one was whisper quite (no high pitch noise at all) Sad that Samsung quality control seams to be.... out of control. Sounds like some of you have got a unit with the same bad noise? My old unit has FNA in its serial the new one has FNB. Anyone with a serial of FNB that is normal noisy?


Would love to see some close up shots of white areas (and others) to see how good the new picture is... with the lack of graininess. I was never bothered by it on mine but it is there, just not noticeable at a distance. If it's corrected completely with newer units... time for a replacement maybe? Assuming the noise issue is fixed.


----------



## ACE844

HDTV Test just put up their unboxing and settings overview vid:


----------



## 1nquisitive

ACE844 said:


> HDTV Test just put up their unboxing and settings overview vid:


Vincent said he'll be spending "a few weeks" reviewing . . . I'm too impatient for that


----------



## MCF34

Considering this USTP..would be first projector. BUT I am having a hard time figuring out how to incorporate it AND my RP-504C center channel. Center can not be an in wall due to house design. I do plan on replacing cabinet to lower the center channel as shown in this pic. That would put top of center at 20-27". Then putting projector on top of that the bottom of the screen will be 29-36". Seems too high. Plan on doing 120". TV as shown is 38" off floor. Also, if I lower center channel it will have to be tilted up and that will also cause an issue with putting the USTP on top of it.


----------



## MCF34

MCF34 said:


> Considering this USTP..would be first projector. BUT I am having a hard time figuring out how to incorporate it AND my RP-504C center channel. Center can not be an in wall due to house design. I do plan on replacing cabinet to lower the center channel as shown in this pic. That would put top of center at 20-27". Then putting projector on top of that the bottom of the screen will be 29-36". Seems too high. Plan on doing 120". TV as shown is 38" off floor. Also, if I lower center channel it will have to be tilted up and that will also cause an issue with putting the USTP on top of it.
> View attachment 3123403


----------



## LunaP

Question for the current LSP9T owners, we're setting up a theatre room and were initially thinking of going w/ an 85" TV since that appears to be the biggest size, though previous house we had a 120" screen with an old projector, so more leaning towards this model instead, we've been at best buy a couple times looking at this as they were showing off the UST screens that prevent excess light, any special things to consider for this or what do you all recommend for rich quality screens? I hear they can get REALLY pricey so wanted to hear from owners to get some additional views on this (outside of the vendor which has offered to come out (for a fee ) and inspect the room and make suggestions ) 

Room is in the basement, and can definitely replace any lights.


----------



## rigidz

LunaP, Start with a simple white screen and compare with UST samples. ( all most all UST screen brands use same material named CBSP screens). I have compared various UST screens and realized that all use same material and provides same image quality. Grandview seems to be using different type of material and provides a little better image quality compared to all others ( may be my illusion or my eyes are too tired to differentiate these minor changes).
if you can control your ceiling light reflections , you may not need UST screen at all.


----------



## Run&Gun

MCF34 said:


> Considering this USTP..would be first projector. BUT I am having a hard time figuring out how to incorporate it AND my RP-504C center channel. Center can not be an in wall due to house design. I do plan on replacing cabinet to lower the center channel as shown in this pic. That would put top of center at 20-27". Then putting projector on top of that the bottom of the screen will be 29-36". Seems too high. Plan on doing 120". TV as shown is 38" off floor. Also, if I lower center channel it will have to be tilted up and that will also cause an issue with putting the USTP on top of it.
> View attachment 3123403


Figure out the height you need to place the projector then figure out the total depth needed for the projector, projector distance from screen and depth of center channel and try to find a cabinet to accommodate that. Or build/modify one. I have my cabinet pulled about 10" out which allows me to place my center in front of my projector with 120" screen.(obviously not the Samsung)


----------



## Run&Gun

rigidz said:


> LunaP, Start with a simple white screen and compare with UST samples. ( all most all UST screen brands use same material named CBSP screens). I have compared various UST screens and realized that all use same material and provides same image quality. Grandview seems to be using different type of material and provides a little better image quality compared to all others ( may be my illusion or my eyes are too tired to differentiate these minor changes).
> if you can control your ceiling light reflections , you may not need UST screen at all.


In my opinion, UST screens are more for the optimal reflection(redirection) of the image from the projector (that is at a vary extreme angle) to the viewer than for rejection of any ambient light. Plus the "negative gain" screen helps improve the perceived black and contrast levels and help mitigate/eliminate any possible hot spotting from generally powerful(bright) projectors being in such close proximity to the screen. Even in a "bat cave", you would probably still get superior results from a UST screen paired with a UST projector than non-UST screen paired with a UST projector.


----------



## JereyWolf

MCF34 said:


> Considering this USTP..would be first projector. BUT I am having a hard time figuring out how to incorporate it AND my RP-504C center channel. Center can not be an in wall due to house design. I do plan on replacing cabinet to lower the center channel as shown in this pic. That would put top of center at 20-27". Then putting projector on top of that the bottom of the screen will be 29-36". Seems too high. Plan on doing 120". TV as shown is 38" off floor. Also, if I lower center channel it will have to be tilted up and that will also cause an issue with putting the USTP on top of it.


Changing the center channel placement was actually a major factor that caused me hesitation before buying a UST...placement can be tough depending on your room. I thought I'd lose some audibility by lowering my center, but I'm really happy with how it worked out. I have a pretty large center, 33" x 12" high x 16" deep. I made a console from plywood that has a top height of 24" and I left a large cavity in the middle to put my center speaker on an angled stand. Underneath the speaker stand there's a cavity for cable access. I block that off with a sheet of painted eva foam. 

Here's a finished shot and a WIP shot of the stand for reference.


----------



## MCF34

JereyWolf said:


> Changing the center channel placement was actually a major factor that caused me hesitation before buying a UST...placement can be tough depending on your room. I thought I'd lose some audibility by lowering my center, but I'm really happy with how it worked out. I have a pretty large center, 33" x 12" high x 16" deep. I made a console from plywood that has a top height of 24" and I left a large cavity in the middle to put my center speaker on an angled stand. Underneath the speaker stand there's a cavity for cable access. I block that off with a sheet of painted eva foam.
> 
> Here's a finished shot and a WIP shot of the stand for reference.
> 
> View attachment 3123549
> View attachment 3123550
> View attachment 3123551


That's about what I would have to do...I have an RP-504C so it is no small center...but I am reading from so many people that a projector won't work in my room because of the paint even if I use a high dollar UST ALR screen.....no light from outside, but light walls and ceiling that I'm not really willing to change...and it will be used 95% at night with no lights on in room.


----------



## JereyWolf

MCF34 said:


> That's about what I would have to do...I have an RP-504C so it is no small center...but I am reading from so many people that a projector won't work in my room because of the paint even if I use a high dollar UST ALR screen.....no light from outside, but light walls and ceiling that I'm not really willing to change...and it will be used 95% at night with no lights on in room.


I guess wether it "works" is subjective. I've been really impressed with the performance in my living room and I would absolutely say any trade offs of using projection are definitely worth the size gain over a TV. I'm using a Grandview Dynamique screen.
I posted this video a while ago to try showing how the image can look in a living room with a lot of ambient light. At the end of the video are two photos of the lighting conditions in the room at the time of filming.


----------



## MCF34

JereyWolf said:


> I guess wether it "works" is subjective. I've been really impressed with the performance in my living room and I would absolutely say any trade offs of using projection are definitely worth the size gain over a TV. I'm using a Grandview Dynamique screen.
> I posted this video a while ago to try showing how the image can look in a living room with a lot of ambient light. At the end of the video are two photos of the lighting conditions in the room at the time of filming.


Cool..and it looks like your ceiling is white and you walls are a cream colored.


----------



## jeffreynmandy

I'm having to fix or replace a jvc x790r due to a storm. Does anyone know how these new samsung projectors would compare to the 790r. I have a completely light controlled room with dark flat walls and a flat black ceiling.

I know I'd probably lose on the black levels, but I just like the bright vivid colors of a TV. From what I find these are close. I only need 120"


----------



## muthumv

Thinking of buying it from eBay. They have 30 day free return window. Any advice ? (Maybe a dumb question, would Samsung accept the 1 year warranty on this?)








Samsung The Premier LSP9T 130" 4K Smart Triple Laser Projector TV SP-LSP9TFAXZA | eBay


Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Samsung The Premier LSP9T 130" 4K Smart Triple Laser Projector TV SP-LSP9TFAXZA at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



www.ebay.com


----------



## ApeEx

muthumv said:


> Thinking of buying it from eBay. They have 30 day free return window. Any advice ? (Maybe a dumb question, would Samsung accept the 1 year warranty on this?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Samsung The Premier LSP9T 130" 4K Smart Triple Laser Projector TV SP-LSP9TFAXZA | eBay
> 
> 
> Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Samsung The Premier LSP9T 130" 4K Smart Triple Laser Projector TV SP-LSP9TFAXZA at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
> 
> 
> 
> www.ebay.com


There's actually a chance, I purchased mine from a random unauthorized dealer. I registered the serial number and uploaded the invoice to Samsung, and it says it's under warranty. 
I also purchased a three year warranty plus accidental from Greentoe.


----------



## 1nquisitive

Aztar35 said:


> Since the projector uses a single chip the colors are not thrown at the same time. In my review, I noted that I saw RBE on some torture tests. However, since it doesn't use a color wheel, I wonder if Samsung can release firmware that can increase the cycling speed.


Any chance you've seen any chatter on RBE being addressed with firmware? I've seen some mentions here and there, but nothing seems to point to an official set of firmware notes or anything.


----------



## Aztar35

Hi. Unfortunately, I have no information on whether any firmware in fact eliminates or virtually eliminates RBE.


----------



## JereyWolf

This white spot showed up for me this morning. It's there at start up and disappears after a few minutes. I saw it early this morning, mid day and now about 9 hours later. Anyone experienced this with a projector before?


----------



## sicpup

Question regarding Atmos. Some show in Netflix have Atmos. I have a Yamaha 700 receiver. Can the Samsung LSP9T Smart TV Powered by TIZEN pass netflix atmos to the Yamaha via the eArc HDMI connection?


----------



## JereyWolf

I've had time this week to work with the projector and investigate an issue that I've seen since I first set it up. It's a subtle color shift. It seems to be related to on screen display and text. The GIF attachments that I have are not an exact representation of what I'm seeing (much more distracting in person)...but it's as close as I can get with my camera. In the clips from The Witch, it happens whenever subtitles appear on screen, if the subtitles are off, it doesn't happen. I was able to replicate it through different source devices and even with a screen cap still image. Opening the menu and the Denon volume OSD cause it too even when there is no subtitle on screen.

Today I saw it happen in this YouTube video, right at the 1:31 mark. Also see the attached Gif.






If anyone can test this to see if it happens on their unit, I'd be really interested.


----------



## Run&Gun

JereyWolf said:


> I've had time this week to work with the projector and investigate an issue that I've seen since I first set it up. It's a subtle color shift. It seems to be related to on screen display and text. The GIF attachments that I have are not an exact representation of what I'm seeing (much more distracting in person)...but it's as close as I can get with my camera. In the clips from The Witch, it happens whenever subtitles appear on screen, if the subtitles are off, it doesn't happen. I was able to replicate it through different source devices and even with a screen cap still image. Opening the menu and the Denon volume OSD cause it too even when there is no subtitle on screen.
> 
> Today I saw it happen in this YouTube video, right at the 1:31 mark. Also see the attached Gif.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone can test this to see if it happens on their unit, I'd be really interested.
> 
> 
> View attachment 3125703
> View attachment 3125704
> View attachment 3125705


Looks like the projector is making some sort of automatic adjustment based on the subtitles, like maybe because they are white, it’s interpreting the overall scene getting brighter when they appear and dimming it down to compensate. White balance also appeared to shift slightly. But it’s hard to tell in cellphone video.


----------



## flam3of4nor

JereyWolf said:


> This white spot showed up for me this morning. It's there at start up and disappears after a few minutes. I saw it early this morning, mid day and now about 9 hours later. Anyone experienced this with a projector before?
> 
> View attachment 3125632
> View attachment 3125630


Could be that a mirror is getting stuck from time to time. I am not 100% sure though.


----------



## JereyWolf

Run&Gun said:


> Looks like the projector is making some sort of automatic adjustment based on the subtitles, like maybe because they are white, it’s interpreting the overall scene getting brighter when they appear and dimming it down to compensate. White balance also appeared to shift slightly. But it’s hard to tell in cellphone video.


It's definitely tough to judge from the images I've been able to share. I think you're right about the the combination of dimming and white balance shifting. 

When I tried that YouTube video again this morning in a windowed view (~30% of the screen) instead of full screen, the color shift does not happen. Also, when testing other movies, the color shift would not trigger during any movie with letterboxing.


----------



## MDesigns

JereyWolf said:


> It's definitely tough to judge from the images I've been able to share. I think you're right about the the combination of dimming and white balance shifting.
> 
> When I tried that YouTube video again this morning in a windowed view (~30% of the screen) instead of full screen, the color shift does not happen. Also, when testing other movies, the color shift would not trigger during any movie with letterboxing.


It's probably Samsungs dynamic dimming / dynamic tone mapping algorithm. The real issue imo is the too bright subtitles we get from the source devices, not so many have any means to adjust the brightness of subtitles.


----------



## JereyWolf

MDesigns said:


> It's probably Samsungs dynamic dimming / dynamic tone mapping algorithm. The real issue imo is the too bright subtitles we get from the source devices, not so many have any means to adjust the brightness of subtitles.


 If that is the case...I'd like to disable it. It seems like more of a bug than a feature. I've seen mentions of "dynamic black" for the LSP9T, but I've never seen a setting that can be adjusted within the projector to control it.


----------



## flam3of4nor

JereyWolf said:


> If that is the case...I'd like to disable it. It seems like more of a bug than a feature. I've seen mentions of "dynamic black" for the LSP9T, but I've never seen a setting that can be adjusted within the projector to control it.


Disable Auto Color Space (set it nativ for example)
Then it should be gone. At least for me it is the case in the example video you posted.


----------



## JereyWolf

flam3of4nor said:


> Disable Auto Color Space (set it nativ for example)
> Then it should be gone. At least for me it is the case in the example video you posted.


Definitely interesting. The only color space setting that it doesn't happen on for me is the "normal" color space...I never use that one because it looks so bad.


----------



## flam3of4nor

JereyWolf said:


> Definitely interesting. The only color space setting that it doesn't happen on for me is the "normal" color space...I never use that one because it looks so bad.


Did you try native? For me it also did not happen there?


----------



## JereyWolf

flam3of4nor said:


> Did you try native? For me it also did not happen there?


 Yeah, I tried, "auto, native, normal and custom - 709/dci-p3/2020.


----------



## bblackbu

IrishLord82 said:


> Has anyone had their unit professionally calibrated? If so, did it make a significant difference? I was one of the first to get the Samsung DSP9T back in November. I've had none of the issues mentioned in this forum. I used the Lack TV bench and VividStorm 120" S Pro Electric Tab-Tension Floor Screen mounted on the Lack. My Panasonic 820 is connected to my Yamaha A-5200 along with my Cox Cable box. I use the "Filmaker" mode and my picture is almost as good as my new LG 77" OLED. One comment I would make based on the pictures I've seen posted. Most of the speakers shown are too close to the screen. Dr. Michael Kelly of Aerial Acoustics told me that all speakers should be al least 3 meters forward of the screen/wall. When the speakers are aliened that way, the center speaker can be put on a stand in front of the Samsung with no problems. Just a thought.


Would you mind sharing a pic of your set-up? I've got the same projector and screen and am struggling to find a good TV stand solution. Thx!


----------



## nacchio

Supertest Samsung Trilaser LSP9T | Pag 1: Introduzione: il sistema laser 3P


Dopo quasi 10 anni, Samsung torna nella videoproiezione casalinga dalla 'porta principale' con un prodotto esclusivo, con tecnologia DLP e ottica a tiro cortissimo, sorgente luminosa laser 3P e copertura completa dello spazio colore REC BT.2020



www.avmagazine.it


----------



## JereyWolf

nacchio said:


> Supertest Samsung Trilaser LSP9T | Pag 1: Introduzione: il sistema laser 3P
> 
> 
> Dopo quasi 10 anni, Samsung torna nella videoproiezione casalinga dalla 'porta principale' con un prodotto esclusivo, con tecnologia DLP e ottica a tiro cortissimo, sorgente luminosa laser 3P e copertura completa dello spazio colore REC BT.2020
> 
> 
> 
> www.avmagazine.it


This was a great review, thanks for sharing. 

In the first page about calibration, they mention the bug where the white balance is effected by the on screen display/menu...this is the issue I was talking about in post #970...described better by them in the review (Google translated to English):

" I also point out *a couple of* rather 'depressing' ' *bugs* '. The first concerns *white calibration* : once you enter the menu, the red and blue components drop by a few percentage points: for calibration you are forced to enter and exit the menu each time and this is annoying. "


----------



## ACE844

I also found this conclusion interesting as well;


[URL=" Review by Emidio Frattaroli https://www.avmagazine.it/articoli/4K/1533/supertest-samsung-trilaser-lsp9t_index.html said:


> Supertest Samsung Trilaser LSP9T | Pag 1: Introduzione: il sistema laser 3P[/URL]"}As usual, white balance calibration also has positive effects in reproducing colors at various saturations. However, there are some errors in magenta and red, especially in the green but fully acceptable. After spending many hours with this projector, I have come to the conclusion that maximum performance for HDR content playback can *currently* only be achieved with an external tone-mapping with a processor that can also handle a 3D LUT. To be more precise, I am referring to a Digifast, a Lumagen Radiance Pro, a madVR Envy, any HTPC with madVR or even a LUT box. After all, even with manual calibration, the results that can be achieved are noteworthy.


Also a second point here; 


> As I said on page 5 , the luminous flux is abundant but the extreme throw ratio (0.189) creates some limitations with the specific ALR screens for UST projectors. The advice is to use a unity gain screen, with the smoothest surface possible. Furthermore, if you want to use up to the last lumen, you could also tilt the screen - even if only half a degree - towards the projector. I tested the new LSP9T in various ways, both on a 100 "ALR screen and on a 3 meter base unit gain screen. In the latter case I managed to get to 100 NIT even after calibration.


----------



## flam3of4nor

ACE844 said:


> I also found this conclusion interesting as well;
> 
> 
> Also a second point here;


I did not translate the full text but only saw what you you and others translated here.
Well this white balance change occurs with my Samsung only in auto mode which is understandable cause he changes the color due to content. Its doing what I would expect with an auto mode...

That a madvr and so on creates better results on HDR is also a very useless remark since this applies to all current projectors at the moment. Even the JVCs. On general the Samsung has an excelelent tonemapping compared to other USTs.

That the UST screens have downsides is also clear but telling that a regular 1.0 gain screen creates better results applies only if you do not care for contrast and black levels. So if you value brightness over anything else then he is right. 
Overall a special UST screen blows a regular screen away in most regards.
So also very weird remarka they make. That a UST projector is a bit brighter on the bottom then on the top is also not new but just a matter of physics.

So overall what I read here about this test does not show me that it is worth reading. Even though 90% of projector tests on the internet are not very good either in my opinion.


----------



## gsimmons2005

So got the LSP7 yesterday. Good deal going on with Amazon, where you get a 500$ gift card on purchase, so it makes it roughly 3k. I cant stomach 6k for the P9.

My first P7 from Samsclub was DOA, wouldnt turn on, but the Amazon one turned on fine. Here are my observations against the Optoma P2 and my older Epson 3700 1080p long throw

Pro

No handshake issues like Optoma (thank god!), The p2 i returned would go black, then fuzz and an HDR line would show in the middle of the screen that would not go away. Samsung spins a wheel when changing content or FPS, but it just works
Setup was almost identical to Optoma, I just had to lower the table screw bottoms like 2 turns and it fit perfect on my existing setup (~15 in above unit)
It did a quick wifi update to the latest firmware
Boot-up time is fast
Not noticing any rainbow (but could be me) or laser speckle
Plenty bright for overhead lights with my Vava UST ALR 100" screen
Didn't test sound as it's hooked to Sonos ARC 5.1 system, but the earc works nicely out of the box. I still have my HD fury (leftover from p2) that helps with Dolby vision mapping, which looks great on the HDR10+
CEC with arc works fine as well
Pretty quiet. Its definitely louder than the Optoma (super super quiet vs super quiet), but unless its dead quiet in the room, any vocals or soundtrack easily cover the unit. I see it similiar to the eco/med mode noise in the Epson 3700, which is nothing. I cant deal with loud projectors, and this is just fine.

Cons

The menus are a little wonky for fitting the screen as one click just gives you instructions, while a deeper buried setting lets you move the corners
Remote is crap, no backlight, but I replaced with Harmony remote, which works fine
Focus seems pretty good, not 100% like epson long throw, but good enough
Lack of brightness control: My main complaint. You can really only change the brightness through the switching from standard to movie to movemaker modes. I think in SDR, the movie mode is nice, but in HDR, its too dim and dull. Same with movie maker mode. I like the standard setting with some tweaks the best, but would prefer to tone down the overall brightness by 10-15% per my room, especially at night. My epson had med/eco modes to allow for this
The movie vs moviemaker vs standard doesn't apply to the source, it applies to all sources (ugg). You can change the tweaks (contrast, RGB, etc...) for each though by source, but the brightness levels are tough to get down.


All in all, I am impressed with the picture so far and the unit overall. Hopefully some further tweaks via firmware to customize it more, but it just works!.


----------



## iunknown2008

gsimmons2005,
How does the HD fury work? Does it just convert the Dolby vision to HDR10+? You would also need it for Dolby atmos (I thought the samsung did not have earc)?



gsimmons2005 said:


> Didn't test sound as it's hooked to Sonos ARC 5.1 system, but the earc works nicely out of the box. I still have my HD fury (leftover from p2) that helps with Dolby vision mapping, which looks great on the HDR10+


----------



## avmagazine

flam3of4nor said:


> That a madvr and so on creates better results on HDR is also a very useless remark since this applies to all current projectors at the moment. Even the JVCs. On general the Samsung has an excelelent tonemapping compared to other USTs.


Hi flam3of4nor. My name's Emidio Frattaroli, Editor-in-Chief of AV Magazine.

Thank you for your considerations. Our reviews are also for the general public and not just for a few experts. Not so many people knows what it is possible to achieve with madVR, LUT boxes or other DSPs like the Lumagen Radiance.



flam3of4nor said:


> That the UST screens have downsides is also clear but telling that a regular 1.0 gain screen creates better results applies only if you do not care for contrast and black levels. So if you value brightness over anything else then he is right.


Again, our language is addressed to the general public, not only to highly skilled people in photometry and projection. So I believe that - at the same lumens - emphasizing that a 'trow-ratio' of 0.189: 1 is less efficient than a 'trow-ratio' of 0.25, is a good thing. On a 110 "'Vividstorm' ALR 110" I read less than 80 NITs with my Minolta LS150. For those who can make 'totally dark', it may be useful to know that the actual gain on a 'normal' screen can fill screens up to 135 ".



flam3of4nor said:


> So overall what I read here about this test does not show me that it is worth reading.


I'm sorry. I know that the Italian language and my 'way of writing' don't help so much google translation much. 

However, on my review you may find some useful information. First of all there are measurements made with high resolution spectrometers (up to 1.5 nm FWHM). I also published an in-depth analysis last March on a first prototype:









Samsung UST trilaser The Premiere LSP9T | Pag 1: Introduzione e caratteristiche


Anteprima con misure sul sistema d'illuminamento 'tri-laser' del nuovo videoproiettore Samsung LSP9T 'The Premiere', probabilmente il primo prodotto a superare i confini dello spazio colore REC BT.2020 ad arrivare sul mercato italiano, con tecnologia DLP, ottica a tiro ultra-corto e compatibile...



www.avmagazine.it





Measuring the new Samsung LSP9T with an i1Pro xrite spectrometer is completely pointless.

Emidio


----------



## ACE844

avmagazine said:


> Measuring the new Samsung LSP9T with an i1Pro xrite spectrometer is completely pointless.
> 
> Emidio


Emidio,

I'm curious if measuring the LSP9T with X-rite is "pointless" why do you recommend it for calibration of the white balance? Additionally in your March article, you noted the 9T was able to exceed BT.2020 color space, and in your latest review, you appear to contradict that, which is true?


----------



## avmagazine

ACE844 said:


> I'm curious if measuring the LSP9T with X-rite is "pointless" why do you recommend it for calibration of the white balance?


The problem is only for the spectrometers, so for the models' i1Pro1 ',' i1Pro2 ', i1Pro3', ColorMunki Photo and company. They are all very low resolution spectometers, around 10nm FWHM. Indeed they are able to understand the peak frequency with sufficient precision but what is missing is a correct estimate of the level. For example, the red component is over-estimated. In my opinion is impossible to calibrate the LSP9T usin a low resolution spectrometer. Much, much better with the i1 Display Pro colorimeter. I strongly recommend using this one, maybe after an offset calibration of the white point using an optical comparator.



ACE844 said:


> Additionally in your March article, you noted the 9T was able to exceed BT.2020 color space, and in your latest review, you appear to contradict that, which is true?


First of all, I had an agreement with Samsung Italy: I could measure the prototype but I was not allowed to publish all the measurements, gamut included. I only used that review to explain the risks of measuring such narrow spectrum primaries with inadequate instrument tools. The gamut is actually larger in size than the BT.2020. But evidently, as I explained in the most recent article, the real cover of REC BT.2020 is about 98%/99% (CIE xy/CIE u'v').I guess now it's time to add all the information into that review as well. Thanks for the 'reporting'.

Emidio


----------



## avmagazine

Just to be clear, the 'problem' on the LSP9T primaries is the green peak frequency, too close to 520nm.



https://www.avmagazine.it/articoli/4K/1533/53.jpg



the white triangle is the native LSP9T; the grey one is the BT.2020.

Emidio


----------



## JereyWolf

avmagazine said:


> Measuring the new Samsung LSP9T with an i1Pro xrite spectrometer is completely pointless.
> 
> Emidio


Is the last page of the full review there is a sentence about using the x-rite i1 Display Pro:

"To correct the white balance, a xrite *i1 Display Pro* colorimeter is enough : it will not be the maximum precision but its work manages to do it quite well and the result will be definitely appreciable." (TRANSLATED TO ENGLISH)

" Per correggere il bilanciamento del bianco basta un colorimetro *i1 Display Pro* di xrite: non sarà il massimo della precisione ma il suo lavoro riesce a farlo abbastanza bene e il risultato risulterà decisamente apprezzabile." (DIRECT FROM THE REVIEW)


Is the English translation leading to any miscommunication here? 

I have made serval attempts to calibrate white balance with my i1 Display Pro. I have been seriously questioning whether that colorimeter has the spectral resolution to work with this projector ( I don't have a solid technical understanding). My reason for skepticism is that when the white balance "measures" calibrated by software to less than 0.5 delta 2000 error, it visibly has a red tint in the 70%, 80%, 90% patches. 

I thought there may be a similar effect to the red tint that many of us experience when trying to photograph the image of the projector with cell phone cameras also happening on the colorimeter. 

I appreciate you taking the time to weigh in here on the forum.


----------



## gsimmons2005

iunknown2008 said:


> gsimmons2005,
> How does the HD fury work? Does it just convert the Dolby vision to HDR10+? You would also need it for Dolby atmos (I thought the samsung did not have earc)?


It does have earc so you could go direct to Sonos Arc if needed. The fury takes the LLDV signals and does a pretty good job of taking the unique mapping and converting to the HDR that the projector can use.  Vision and HDR10+ are pretty similar, but the bulk of the content is in Vision, so its a creative way of getting the vision content to map into HDR. Think local diming for DV/10+ instead of screen level. Does a pretty good job...check other forums as well as they have had similar luck. Uses EEID spoofing to trick the Roku/Apple Tv into thinking the projector is DV capable and then does the mapping before going to the projector


----------



## avmagazine

JereyWolf said:


> ... My reason for skepticism is that when the white balance "measures" calibrated by software to less than 0.5 delta 2000 error, it visibly has a red tint in the 70%, 80%, 90% patches.


Sure. You need a high resolution spectrometer to have the necessary accuracy. But it costs more than the projector. The sense of what I wrote is that an EODIS3 is much closer than an i1Pro. Furthermore, with an optical comparison, it is possible to further reduce the error even with the same EODIS3.

Emidio


----------



## JereyWolf

avmagazine said:


> Sure. You need a high resolution spectrometer to have the necessary accuracy. But it costs more than the projector. The sense of what I wrote is that an EODIS3 is much closer than an i1Pro. Furthermore, with an optical comparison, it is possible to further reduce the error even with the same EODIS3.
> 
> Emidio


Thanks for the clarification, I was confused by the very similar naming of each model.


----------



## avmagazine

No problem, JereyWolf. Do you have an EODIS3? Do you wanna try to create a new reference for the 'white' of your LSP9T with an optical comparator? Do you already know how to do it?

Emidio


----------



## JereyWolf

avmagazine said:


> No problem, JereyWolf. Do you have an EODIS3? Do you wanna try to create a new reference for the 'white' of your LSP9T with an optical comparator? Do you already know how to do it?
> 
> Emidio


Yes that's the model that I own. Do you mean adjusting the white balance on the projector? I've spent several sessions working on that and have been able to get decent results.

I'll take the advice you had in the review about closing out of the menu because of the way it changes the white balance and make another attempt at calibration.

If you are talking about something else, I'm definitely interested.


----------



## ACE844

avmagazine said:


> The problem is only for the spectrometers, so for the models' i1Pro1 ',' i1Pro2 ', i1Pro3', ColorMunki Photo and company. They are all very low resolution spectometers, around 10nm FWHM. Indeed they are able to understand the peak frequency with sufficient precision but what is missing is a correct estimate of the level. For example, the red component is over-estimated. In my opinion is impossible to calibrate the LSP9T usin a low resolution spectrometer. Much, much better with the i1 Display Pro colorimeter. I strongly recommend using this one, maybe after an offset calibration of the white point using an optical comparator.


There are numerous "issues," as a mostly ignorant neophyte I have noticed since buying this projector and consuming the reviews and technical reviews worldwide for this unit. It seems the overwhelming majority by both designs are shallow at best and detail and "fact light." Mostly tied to commercial gain, furthering and building authoritarian marketing/sales/seo link strength, and or just free access to the latest gear under the "influencer" business model.

There was a very labor-intensive and technical review done by a CN-based member here using his 5 + figure spectrometerLumagen pro and other high-end equipment to deep dive into the color space and 3D LUT aspects of this device. I wonder if you've read it? There have been several others of varying depth including yours, cinehome.de, passion home cinema blog, Vincent Teoh's HDTV Test (still in progress at the time of writing), etc... Their measurement of color space and other factors seem to contradict the manufacturer's claims about certain performance aspects of the device. Sure there are pros and cons to everything, and we've all yet to achieve perfection. I get it.

However, the cognitive dissonance which obviously appears for some critical literature reviewers and thinkers here and elsewhere is that it's exceedingly difficult for a regular user to get this projector correctly calibrated; and nearly equally as difficult to find a pro calibrator local to wherever CONUS who has the necessary narrow bandwidth spectrometer that could do the job. I suspect the EU and other regions are similarly and potentially "worse" with this affliction.

Compound this with reviewers pro, commercial, hobbyist, or who obviously contradict each other and or post conflicting information in their own reviews and comments. It's no wonder that anyone could get a truly accurate picture of the real-world performance of the device, etc.... This of course "disregards" the "end users" chasing ephemeral device envy and bragging rights.

So my "reporting" was non-existent except to ask for clarification and explanation on a point which clearly read in English as contradictory and questionable. Simply as someone who tries to maximize the use and utilize as much of a device's capability as possible in use, I wanted to erase my ignorance just a little bit more. I'd wager that I'm not the only reader with similar questions and queries. It's sort of the point of this "medium" beyond its blatantly obvious commercial value to the owners ( good for them for finding and utilizing it).

I suspect there are several owners (myself included) searching for a number of answers from a review and or "expert" which will allow us to configure and optimize this device to get maximal performance and enjoyment from the device. I promise my "Chief Happiness Officer" would give you a withering DILLIGAF and wonder why the device "isn't right," and not "working as it should" after trying to watch *__* on it. It will ignite your "flight response". Her concern and desire are that stuff works, properly, well, and as advertised with a minimum of "tinkering". Really not an unreasonable expectation at this price point and for most consumers of such a device.



avmagazine said:


> First of all, I had an agreement with Samsung Italy: I could measure the prototype but I was not allowed to publish all the measurements, gamut included.


Why would they make that requirement if they were aware you possess lab-grade equipment and the expertise to do accurate measurements and assessments as to the device's performance? Were they concerned it may affect the sales volume of people buying solely a brand label and that the realities of their claims would be laid unquestionably bare in the EU opening them up to liability based on their public claims? Where's the rub?

As a plug and play and or even hobbyist consumer one can only wonder why Samsung would knowingly make it so difficult for the end-user to accurately and effectively be able to utilize the device in their own space. Especially where the devices in question would need to be "calibrated/tuned" to the individual installation environment. This is made worse when they must surely realize few portended pro's have such narrow bandwidth spectrometers to do the job correctly for the end consumer. Ultimately the outcome of those " tweaks" will dictate the "crowds" reputational and " technically ignorant" perception of device performance when asked about it. Surely, Samsung would want to avoid the "meh, I wouldn't buy it again" response when other potential buyers query owners? Am I missing something?



avmagazine said:


> I only used that review to explain the risks of measuring such narrow spectrum primaries with inadequate instrument tools. The gamut is actually larger in size than the BT.2020. But evidently, as I explained in the most recent article, the real cover of REC BT.2020 is about 98%/99% (CIE xy/CIE u'v').I guess now it's time to add all the information into that review as well. Thanks for the 'reporting'.
> 
> Emidio


Thanks for sharing your feedback and experience as it's clear your time and efforts as well as contributions here have given the forum members the ability to ask questions and perhaps improve utilization of their own devices based on your earned experience and background in the space.[/QUOTE]


----------



## avmagazine

JereyWolf said:


> ... If you are talking about something else, I'm definitely interested...


Well, my suggestion is to put a 'reference white', at same luminance level and possibly at same size, close (as much as you can) to the screen lighted by the LSP9T. About 'same size', you can make a special pattern for the projector to 'fit' the size of your reference white display.

Just to be clear, you need an image of 590 x 330 pixels on a black background to simulate a 15,6" screen on a 100" screen. Put the laptop close to the screen illuminated by the Samsung, they should have similar size and luminance. Draw the 'active' area of the pattern on one side, in order to place the laptop as close as possible but on side, to avoid direct light from the projector.

This is just an example. I suggest to prepare several patterns, from 90% and above:



https://www.avmagazine.it/immagini/2021_04_29_LSP9T_pattern_15in_on_100in.png



Sometimes I use a laptop with a very, very small gamut. I first measure the luminance on the projector of a 90% gray pattern. I suggest to put the EODIS3 on the Paint's pattern: while measuring real-time with your software, modulate the back light unit - and try different RGB coordinates - to reach the D65 at target luminance.



















When you are ready and watching bot images, try to calibrate the Samsung with your eyes ONLY, until the 'white' of the two screens will be as similar as possible. You don't have to calibrate all the grayscale but ONLY that pattern. Obviously, by removing red etc, the Samsung luminance will drop. But you already have brighter patterns to compensate.

When done, let's measure the new 'white' with your probe and use the new 'white' coordinates to fix the 'off-set' on your preferred software. 

Emidio


----------



## avmagazine

ACE844 said:


> There was a very labor-intensive and technical review done by a CN-based member here using his 5 + figure spectrometerLumagen pro and other high-end equipment to deep dive into the color space and 3D LUT aspects of this device. I wonder if you've read it?


Not yet. Where?



ACE844 said:


> I suspect the EU and other regions are similarly and potentially "worse" with this affliction...


Maybe same situation here in Europe. BTW I agree with you, 100%.



ACE844 said:


> So my "reporting" was non-existent except to ask for clarification and explanation....


Thank you, for your questions and for your analysis. I would write a lot more here on AVS but - as you may have guessed - I'm not so quick writing in English.



ACE844 said:


> I suspect there are several owners (myself included) searching for a number of answers from a review and or "expert" which will allow us to configure and optimize this device to get maximal performance and enjoyment from the device.


I have been analyzing projectors for the last 20 years and I have never, never seen products without bugs, more or less important. I keep seeing products, even very expensive ones, with design limitations that cannot be solved by firmware upgrade. Of course, there's no way to argue about 106% coverage of the BT.2020. But the coverage is almost 99%. And this is terrific! The contrast ratio is better than specs. I know, the out-of-the-box colors and white balance should be better... But there are some ways to use a low-cost colorimeter to try to mitigate those limitations. I am looking forward to a major fw update; could solve many problems.



ACE844 said:


> Why would they make that requirement...


Mainly because it was an early prototype.



ACE844 said:


> ... one can only wonder why Samsung would knowingly make it so difficult...


After verifying a certain consistency of color coordinates between various LSP9Ts, 'someone' could publish a correction matrix for use in the main calibration softwares (from Calman to HCFR). Maybe after the next firmware update...



ACE844 said:


> Thanks for sharing your feedback


Thank you. BTW I'm here also because people like you, with time and motivation to find out useful information from this projector. I believe I'll be back to review the Samsung LSP9T after a firmware update, hoply soon.

Emidio


----------



## ACE844

avmagazine said:


> Not yet. Where?


It starts approx here: Official Samsung "Premiere" LSP9T Owners Thread by @Jue Liang and covers multiple posts and images for approx 3 pages.


----------



## JereyWolf

ACE844 said:


> It starts approx here: Official Samsung "Premiere" LSP9T Owners Thread by @Jue Liang and covers multiple posts and images for approx 3 pages.


Jue's review is great. His review was the first time that I saw a mention of how the contrast setting has side effects. At least on my unit, when contrast goes higher than 41 there are massive changes in white balance between every consecutive step in contrast.


----------



## ACE844

JereyWolf said:


> Jue's review is great. His review was the first time that I saw a mention of how the contrast setting has side effects. At least on my unit, when contrast goes higher than 41 there are massive changes in white balance between every consecutive step in contrast.


Agreed, it's the most extensive as far as calibration and color space I've seen to date. Cinehome did an awesome job with their teardown of the unit as well. Jue also seems to agree with Emidio's conclusion about the 2 points of white balance making a world of difference as a starting point. On my unit though i still had a bit of a red push afterward with some crude calibrating.


----------



## avmagazine

ACE844 said:


> ... Emiligo's...


My name's Emidio. Something like half-god ('emi', like hemisphere and 'dio', as Zeus, Diòs)... 

Just kidding.  

Thank you for links and advices

Emidio


----------



## ACE844

avmagazine said:


> My name's Emidio. Something like half-god ('emi', like hemisphere and 'dio', as Zeus, Diòs)...
> Emidio


Sorry for "butchering," your name. no excuse, and guilty as charged. You have my sincere apologies for the error as I understand how that can be grating especially in a multi-cultural and mixed language forum. I edited/corrected the offending post.


----------



## newtophoto

I'm looking for a TV stand that can accommodate both the projector and a center speaker (11x28 inches), but can't find anything!! Is it okay to just lay the projector on the center speaker or is that a bad idea? Anyone have any other ideas how they resolved this issue?


----------



## bennutt

newtophoto said:


> I'm looking for a TV stand that can accommodate both the projector and a center speaker (11x28 inches), but can't find anything!! Is it okay to just lay the projector on the center speaker or is that a bad idea? Anyone have any other ideas how they resolved this issue?


IKEA has cheap shelves that you can chop the legs down to appropriate height.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## newtophoto

bennutt said:


> IKEA has cheap shelves that you can chop the legs down to appropriate height.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Can you link that one please?


----------



## newtophoto

Is anyone using this projector without a dedicated home theater system? Curious how good the sound is or if its worth it to go full sonos.


----------



## flam3of4nor

The sound is "ok" if you compare it with a television. It is not at all comparable with a dedicated home theater system. So you should definitely go for that.


----------



## leggwork

newtophoto said:


> Can you link that one please?


IKEA Lack LACK TV unit, black, 35 3/8x10 1/4x17 3/4" - IKEA


----------



## muthumv

ApeEx said:


> There's actually a chance, I purchased mine from a random unauthorized dealer. I registered the serial number and uploaded the invoice to Samsung, and it says it's under warranty.
> I also purchased a three year warranty plus accidental from Greentoe.


This is helpful. I got the product from the seller and it’s new and legit. Happy so far, I will try the product registration & accidental warranty


----------



## muthumv

newtophoto said:


> Is anyone using this projector without a dedicated home theater system? Curious how good the sound is or if its worth it to go full sonos.


The speaker system isn’t bad. Recently got the projector, it’s decent sounding and I’m planning to wait until prime-day or black-friday to get the Samsung Q950t.


----------



## bblackbu

Is anybody utilizing the built-in speaker as the center-speaker for a proper home theater 5.1/7.1 set-up? I would love to not have to put another speaker under the projector to serve as the dedicated center speaker, but I'm not sure if this is possible and if it is, how to do it with the receiver. Any thoughts?


----------



## JereyWolf

So I've been in contact with Samsung and they have approved a service request to address the shifting white balance issue on my projector but I'm debating whether it will be worth it to ship it to a service center for two weeks when I think they may not be able to fix it....because I'm not convinced that it's a defect, I think it may just be a bug in the software that, hopefully will be addressed by a future firmware update.

I'm wondering how many other people are seeing the shifting white balance.


----------



## Mike Garrett

muthumv said:


> This is helpful. I got the product from the seller and it’s new and legit. Happy so far, I will try the product registration & accidental warranty


If Samsung is like most manufacturers, the problem occurs when making a claim. That is when you have to provide a receipt from an authorized dealer.


----------



## newtophoto

Anyone using this with a Sonos Arc and able to get LPCM multi channel with DTS movies? Looks like it's a Samsung issue, but wondering if anyone has a workaround this issue.


----------



## iunknown2008

newtophoto said:


> Anyone using this with a Sonos Arc and able to get LPCM multi channel with DTS movies? Looks like it's a Samsung issue, but wondering if anyone has a workaround this issue.


This is for dolby atmos, don't know if it would work for DTS?
4K Arcana 18Gbps | HDFury.com | Connect and Fix everything in HDMI

actually it does:"Arcana allows ANY HDMI source FULL AUDIO to ANY eARC sound system for up to Dolby Atmos, Dolby TrueHD, Dolby MAT Atmos, DTS-X, DTS-HD Master Audio and older formats. "


----------



## iunknown2008

newtophoto said:


> Anyone using this with a Sonos Arc and able to get LPCM multi channel with DTS movies? Looks like it's a Samsung issue, but wondering if anyone has a workaround this issue.


Newtophoto, If you get the vertex 2 you can also get dolby vision which harper was really impressed with in his thread below:
Samsung LSP9T The Premiere 4K Laser Projector Review & Comments | Page 3 | AVForums


----------



## newtophoto

What's the diff between Vertex 2 and Arcana?


----------



## RxJedi

So, I received my unit today and I seem to have a new iteration of the model/version: CA01

I wonder if this version changed some of the items causing issues? Fan noise, other noises, RBE, etc…..

Only had time to put it on the white wall as screen hasn’t arrived yet, but:

1) ZERO noise from the unit. ZERO!!!!!

2) The image on a flat white wall was impressive in a family room. When the Stewart UST screen arrives, I will provide as many pics as possible….

Sorry I can’t provide more, but just thought I’d offer what I could today! As soon as I have more time to play with the unit and have the screen installed, I’ll send a huge update.

RxJedi


----------



## JereyWolf

RxJedi said:


> So, I received my unit today and I seem to have a new iteration of the model/version: CA01


Mine also says version CA01. I purchased it in November 2020.


----------



## Mikenificent1

JereyWolf said:


> Mine also says version CA01. I purchased it in November 2020.


Have you tried the LSP9T with the vertex 2 and Harper’s settings? If so, what are your thoughts?


----------



## JereyWolf

Mikenificent1 said:


> Have you tried the LSP9T with the vertex 2 and Harper’s settings? If so, what are your thoughts?


I'm not sure what Harper's setting are, but about four months ago I had the Vertex2 for the weekend to test and had some back and forth discussion with someone on the forum.

This *↓ *was my impression at the time of testing and what I told @sudhanese2003.

_"I spent the weekend messing with the Vertex and I've come away less impressed than I hoped for. I was pretty easily able to get the LLDV signal to pass, even sent it through my receiver, so I didn't lose the Denon OSD. I also borrowed a friends Sony UBP x700, which I was able to force dolby vision onto regular SDR blurays and send the LLDV signal to the projector. So I was watching Avatar bluray with LLDV, the projector automatically switched to the HDR mode. I was even able to go into the netflix APP on the UBP X700, watch regular SDR content (I used Jeopardy) and force dolby vision on it, so the LLDV signal was sent through the Vertex to the projector...it looked good, but not much different that playing it in SDR using the same picture mode.

It totally works and wasn't to difficult to set-up...but I did a lot of comparing the regular HDR signal to the LLDV signal and I struggled to find differences. Perhaps it would have been easier to see the difference if I had a side-by-side photo....which I tried to do, the the accuracy of photos with our projector is so poor.

The best benefit I saw while testing was the ability to force "Dolby Vision" using the UBP X700. Using Avatar, I bypassed the vertex and sent the "DV" (HDR10) signal to the projector and also used the Vertex to route the LLDV to the projector......so essentially I was testing forced HDR10 and forced LLDV on a 1080p SDR bluray. Enabling HDR had some amount of positive impact, but again I struggled to see much difference between the HDR with and without the Vertex"_


----------



## Mikenificent1

JereyWolf said:


> I'm not sure what Harper's setting are, but about four months ago I had the Vertex2 for the weekend to test and had some back and forth discussion with someone on the forum.


Previously posted, see here. I wonder if the settings would have made a difference:









Samsung LSP9T The Premiere 4K Laser Projector Review & Comments


Hi Steve, could u please post your calibration setup so it could help me to calibrate mine. Thx Could you please Steve, I am interested too. DM will do. Will be a good starting point for further calibration I think. Thanks




www.avforums.com


----------



## IrishLord82

I recently had Bill Hergonson of Vegas Calibration come to my house to perform a professional calibration of my LSP9T. Bill is an ISF Level 3 calibrator and did an excellent job calibrating my projector. I am using a *VIVIDSTORM-Projector Screen S PRO 120 inch Portable Folding Indoor Screen with Stand Floor UST Ambient Light Rejecting Home Theater, Compatible for 4K Ultra Short Throw Laser Projector,VSDSTUST120H which Bill described as extremely flat, producing no visible distortion with a Multi-burst pattern. The overall ISF rating for the projector was "Excellent" after calibration. 
I had the projector set to "Film Maker" mode prior to calibration in which the only significant error was a low gamma which would make rather weak blacks and an inferior contrast ratio. He switched to "Movie" mode which offers a slightly better selection of adjustments, and is the mode of choice for Samsung calibration traditionally. Since every calibration **environment is different, I recommend getting your investment professionally calibrated. It's only another few hundred dollars and the result is well worth the effort knowing you've got it right. I am attaching a picture of my setup with a great deal of **ambient** light. You'll note that my center speaker is in front of the projector and aligned with the L/R speakers. The center speaker does not block the startup of the projector.
I hope this helps you.*


----------



## bennutt

Linus did a review of the Epson UST you might find entertaining for various reasons. Posting both in here and the LG thread.







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JereyWolf

Mikenificent1 said:


> Previously posted, see here. I wonder if the settings would have made a difference:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Samsung LSP9T The Premiere 4K Laser Projector Review & Comments
> 
> 
> Hi Steve, could u please post your calibration setup so it could help me to calibrate mine. Thx Could you please Steve, I am interested too. DM will do. Will be a good starting point for further calibration I think. Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avforums.com


It's totally possible that with different settings I would have had a better impression. 
Because I already had a capable PC connected to my receiver, I went the MadVR route for movies.


----------



## JereyWolf

IrishLord82 said:


> Since every calibration environment is different, I recommend getting your investment professionally calibrated. It's only another few hundred dollars and the result is well worth the effort knowing you've got it right.


I totally agree that proper calibration makes a significant and worthy difference. I'd recommend that anyone who likes to DIY and tinker, pick up a colorimeter and learn how to use HCFR (free software) for calibration.


----------



## flam3of4nor

Did anybody of you install the new Firmware 2012.1? I installed in yesterday, but I could not see any difference. Does anybody know what changed?  Just bug-fixes?


----------



## JereyWolf

flam3of4nor said:


> Did anybody of you install the new Firmware 2012.1? I installed in yesterday, but I could not see any difference. Does anybody know what changed?  Just bug-fixes?


Where did you get the firmware from? 
Using search for updates doesn't show anything new and the version listed on Samsung's website is 1470.3.


----------



## IrishLord82

I checked my firmware version and it is 20121. I have updates set to "automatic".


----------



## JereyWolf

IrishLord82 said:


> I checked my firmware version and it is 20121. I have updates set to "automatic".


Interesting. I'm still on the previous firmware. I even enabled auto update and restarted...but no update occured.


----------



## dfx59

bennutt said:


> I just wish it wasn’t another format war.
> HDR 10+ is awesome. So is Dolby Vision. One currently has a ton more content. Give us displays that support both!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Philips oled does support both but I am not sure they are sold in the US.


----------



## newtophoto

wonder if the firmware is a regional thing? i only see 1470


----------



## IrishLord82

I went into "Support" and checked the manual update and it told me I had the latest update, 2012. It says, after checking for an update, to also check the Samsung website for updates. If you haven't tried that, you might want to give it a go.


----------



## JereyWolf

IrishLord82 said:


> I went into "Support" and checked the manual update and it told me I had the latest update, 2012. It says, after checking for an update, to also check the Samsung website for updates. If you haven't tried that, you might want to give it a go.


I contacted Samsung chat support (not sure how much that is worth) and they told me that the latest version is 1470.3; just the same thing listed on their website. I'd really like to install the new firmware that you guys have mentioned to see if it has any effect on the shifting white balance problem.


----------



## newtophoto

Anyone using this projector with the Sonos Arc, HDFury and Roofull HDMI Switch? If so, are you having any issues? I have random issues that come and go such as no sound from Sonos, controller not working for the shield, Sonos/shield not turning off when I turn off the TV, etc.


----------



## Ricimer

how do i disable HDR? When i play 4K content from my nvidia shield pro the projector seems to think it's 4K HDR even though it's just regular 4K. It doesn't matter if i change the resolution to 4k RGB 8bit.


----------



## dfx59

Hello, 
I have received yesterday a LSP9T, coming from a Sony VZ1000ES. I am using a vividstrom spro 120" (ALR UST). 
The image is "ringing" on the LSP9T with that ALR UST screen. I tried with the previous (in celling white gain 1.0) screen and the result is much more acceptable (no ringing).
I guess it's due to too much lumens so I tried to play with the settings to lower brightness as I cannot find a setting for laser power (is there any?). My wife is much more embarassed by the twinkle/glitter but still it is slightly exhausting to my eyes. She also notice RBE while I did not.
Firmware was upgraded from 1398 (factory out of the box) to the latest available here: 2012
Thank you for your help, best regards,
PS: The VZ1000ES+Spro 120" does not exhibit that twinkle/glitter with the SPro in laser full power. While it's supposed to be 2500 lumens so pretty close to the LSP9T.


----------



## flam3of4nor

dfx59 said:


> Hello,
> I have received yesterday a LSP9T, coming from a Sony VZ1000ES. I am using a vividstrom spro 120" (ALR UST).
> The image is "ringing" on the LSP9T with that ALR UST screen. I tried with the previous (in celling white gain 1.0) screen and the result is much more acceptable (no ringing).
> I guess it's due to too much lumens so I tried to play with the settings to lower brightness as I cannot find a setting for laser power (is there any?). My wife is much more embarassed by the twinkle/glitter but still it is slightly exhausting to my eyes. She also notice RBE while I did not.
> Firmware was upgraded from 1398 (factory out of the box) to the latest available here: 2012
> Thank you for your help, best regards,
> PS: The VZ1000ES+Spro 120" does not exhibit that twinkle/glitter with the SPro in laser full power. While it's supposed to be 2500 lumens so pretty close to the LSP9T.


With „ringing“ you mean the glitter on the UST screen? Or what do you see exactly. The RBE your girlfriend sees should go away after a few weeks. You get usually accustomed to it. The glitter is also visible on my UST screen and on my previous white gain 1.0 it was not there.

May I ask why you exchanged the Sony for the Samsung? I never saw the Sony in person but I always thought it is positioned „above“ the Samsung.


----------



## dfx59

flam3of4nor said:


> With „ringing“ you mean the glitter on the UST screen? Or what do you see exactly. The RBE your girlfriend sees should go away after a few weeks. You get usually accustomed to it. The glitter is also visible on my UST screen and on my previous white gain 1.0 it was not there.
> 
> May I ask why you exchanged the Sony for the Samsung? I never saw the Sony in person but I always thought it is positioned „above“ the Samsung.


Yes, this is actually this glitter effect, like shinning spots which makes it hard to focus for your eyes, does not matter how sharp the source picture might be.
Actually that looks like you are watching through a dirty glass, especially whites...
I wonder why this is easily visible with the Samsung (and makes the picture hardly watchable) while it's not an issue with the Sony VZ1000: Lens orientation?

In the end maybe a UST technical screen is not such a good idea...?
Would I face the same effect with a more regular "ALR" one or would I have less troubles due to less technical aspect of the screen material ?
Would loose less brightness (40% with a UST ALR, 20% gain 0.8 with an ALR), and an ALR would be usable with end of room or short through projectors, not just UST....
Of course I can also go with a better quality UST screen like the ones made by DNP but they are only manufacturing fixed frame and I really need motorized...

To answer your question: Sony is damaged :-/ yellow halo due to faulty lens block and s-core (not sure what this one relates to) as per the technical report.
Sony estimates it is too expensive to repair it...
The projector was supposed to be under warranty and only got 2000 hours. It looks like it's not a reliable projector as some other mentioned here. 
At that price tag it's a pity as it's really expensive at 11k euros (can get one for 9k now in France). 
In comparison, I bought the LSP9T for half of that at 4890euros after 500euros cashback).

Both Sony and Samsung got a poor laser protection (plastic cover not motorized for the Sony) and terrible feet to manually adjust position.
That reminds me my 1st tri-lcd, 20 years ago for a fraction of the price of those....

Sony has got a motorized lens to make placement easier, better motion handling (no judder, even without motionflow).
It has got way more (and better) options for picture improvements (including dynamic contrast, gamma selection, color management etc...).
Last but not least native SXRD chip so no XPR and the judder it introduces.

The Samsung LSP9T is better in native contrast, better brightness (more lumens), colors pop more (thanks to the 3 lasers) which helps for a wahoo effect with HDR content. It also look sharper (0.6" DMD). It's frame interpolation feature is somewhat a joke / caricatural to my eyes even in low settings 2-4.
Still I would prefer that picture if I can solve the issue with my vividstorm s-pro.... If not I may just return the projector and/or screen.
The LSP9T also has a build-in speaker (helpful in some case), a DBV-T + DBV-C Tuner, built in SmartTV...
Hopefully, it will sell well and they will improve / add features plus config options in the future thanks to fw upgrades? 

PS: Good luck for the game ;-)


----------



## dfx59

Ricimer said:


> how do i disable HDR? When i play 4K content from my nvidia shield pro the projector seems to think it's 4K HDR even though it's just regular 4K. It doesn't matter if i change the resolution to 4k RGB 8bit.


Actually it seems you cannot, if the projector triggers HDR mode automaticaly when it receives a content with the HDR flag. I would suggest to disable HDR output on the shield.


----------



## flam3of4nor

dfx59 said:


> Yes, this is actually this glitter effect, like shinning spots which makes it hard to focus for your eyes, does not matter how sharp the source picture might be.
> Actually that looks like you are watching through a dirty glass, especially whites...
> I wonder why this is easily visible with the Samsung (and makes the picture hardly watchable) while it's not an issue with the Sony VZ1000: Lens orientation?
> 
> In the end maybe a UST technical screen is not such a good idea...?
> Would I face the same effect with a more regular "ALR" one or would I have less troubles due to less technical aspect of the screen material ?
> Would loose less brightness (40% with a UST ALR, 20% gain 0.8 with an ALR), and an ALR would be usable with end of room or short through projectors, not just UST....
> Of course I can also go with a better quality UST screen like the ones made by DNP but they are only manufacturing fixed frame and I really need motorized...
> 
> To answer your question: Sony is damaged :-/ yellow halo due to faulty lens block and s-core (not sure what this one relates to) as per the technical report.
> Sony estimates it is too expensive to repair it...
> The projector was supposed to be under warranty and only got 2000 hours. It looks like it's not a reliable projector as some other mentioned here.
> At that price tag it's a pity as it's really expensive at 11k euros (can get one for 9k now in France).
> In comparison, I bought the LSP9T for half of that at 4890euros after 500euros cashback).
> 
> Both Sony and Samsung got a poor laser protection (plastic cover not motorized for the Sony) and terrible feet to manually adjust position.
> That reminds me my 1st tri-lcd, 20 years ago for a fraction of the price of those....
> 
> Sony has got a motorized lens to make placement easier, better motion handling (no judder, even without motionflow).
> It has got way more (and better) options for picture improvements (including dynamic contrast, gamma selection, color management etc...).
> Last but not least native SXRD chip so no XPR and the judder it introduces.
> 
> The Samsung LSP9T is better in native contrast, better brightness (more lumens), colors pop more (thanks to the 3 lasers) which helps for a wahoo effect with HDR content. It also look sharper (0.6" DMD). It's frame interpolation feature is somewhat a joke / caricatural to my eyes even in low settings 2-4.
> Still I would prefer that picture if I can solve the issue with my vividstorm s-pro.... If not I may just return the projector and/or screen.
> The LSP9T also has a build-in speaker (helpful in some case), a DBV-T + DBV-C Tuner, built in SmartTV...
> Hopefully, it will sell well and they will improve / add features plus config options in the future thanks to fw upgrades?
> 
> PS: Good luck for the game ;-)


Some people here had a problem with some dithering in whites. It sounds a bit similar like what you explain. You can check in this thread. It is not with all units (mine does not have it).
The glitter I ment is relatively minor. Its just the typical glitter you ger with a ust screen. should be same on the sony. It is not very disturbing to me but compared to a white 1.0 gain screen a bit visible.
You problem sounds different though. Can it be photographed? 

You cannot use a regular ALR screen with a UST it will create a hotspot in the lower part of the image. You need a UST ALR/CLR screen.

I did not expect that Sony has such a bad service for that price. Unbelievable. I also do not have good experience with Sony though (Problems with a television).

The frame interpolation of the Samsung I like a lot actually. It is in my opinion best in class if you use it not above 5. 
The Sony should be inferior in that. The Samsung has the problem though that 50hz material does not work well if you watch that…


----------



## dfx59

flam3of4nor said:


> Some people here had a problem with some dithering in whites. It sounds a bit similar like what you explain. You can check in this thread. It is not with all units (mine does not have it).
> The glitter I ment is relatively minor. Its just the typical glitter you ger with a ust screen. should be same on the sony. It is not very disturbing to me but compared to a white 1.0 gain screen a bit visible.
> You problem sounds different though. Can it be photographed?
> 
> You cannot use a regular ALR screen with a UST it will create a hotspot in the lower part of the image. You need a UST ALR/CLR screen.
> 
> I did not expect that Sony has such a bad service for that price. Unbelievable. I also do not have good experience with Sony though (Problems with a television).
> 
> The frame interpolation of the Samsung I like a lot actually. It is in my opinion best in class if you use it not above 5.
> The Sony should be inferior in that. The Samsung has the problem though that 50hz material does not work well if you watch that…





flam3of4nor said:


> Some people here had a problem with some dithering in whites. It sounds a bit similar like what you explain. You can check in this thread. It is not with all units (mine does not have it).
> The glitter I ment is relatively minor. Its just the typical glitter you ger with a ust screen. should be same on the sony. It is not very disturbing to me but compared to a white 1.0 gain screen a bit visible.
> You problem sounds different though. Can it be photographed?
> 
> You cannot use a regular ALR screen with a UST it will create a hotspot in the lower part of the image. You need a UST ALR/CLR screen.
> 
> I did not expect that Sony has such a bad service for that price. Unbelievable. I also do not have good experience with Sony though (Problems with a television).
> 
> The frame interpolation of the Samsung I like a lot actually. It is in my opinion best in class if you use it not above 5.
> The Sony should be inferior in that. The Samsung has the problem though that 50hz material does not work well if you watch that…


Not sure that photo will let you see it but the reflective / shining effect is really visible especially on white and human faces it "rings". It does not happen with the gain 1.0 screen behind it (so I can easily compare). Sony VZ1000ES does not have it with the vividstorm s-pro so it's like a duo (lsp9t+spro120") incompatibility which seem strange as someone else here got the same setup. 
I have noticed that disabling dynamic contrast helps to lower it, still visible but less disturbing. By the way this may also be related to the duplicity noticeable (red or green) or elemets in the picture. See the football player on the bottom right.


----------



## flam3of4nor

I think its really not visible on the picture.
Its hard to say if I have the same glitter. A bit it is bisible if you concentrate on it.
I habe a elitescreen CLR though.


----------



## JereyWolf

dfx59 said:


> Firmware was upgraded from 1398 (factory out of the box) to the latest available here: 2012


Interesting to hear another confirmation of firmware 2012. I still can't get past 1470.3.

Was your wife able to notice any difference in RBE after the firmware update? It was very distracting to me before the update in February.


----------



## JereyWolf

flam3of4nor said:


> I think its really not visible on the picture.
> Its hard to say if I have the same glitter. A bit it is bisible if you concentrate on it.
> I habe a elitescreen CLR though.


Speckle is visible on my Grandview UST screen also. Side note, when I tested the LG HU85LA is had no of speckle at all on the same screen.


----------



## flam3of4nor

JereyWolf said:


> Speckle is visible on my Grandview UST screen also. Side note, when I tested the LG HU85LA is had no of speckle at all on the same screen.


i do not talk about speckle. just that the grey clr screen material is a bit more reflective. Similar like regular daylight ALR screens. The Samsung does not produce this effect on a white screen.


----------



## dfx59

JereyWolf said:


> Interesting to hear another confirmation of firmware 2012. I still can't get past 1470.3.
> 
> Was your wife able to notice any difference in RBE after the firmware update? It was very distracting to me before the update in February.


Sorry but cannot answer this. I received the LSP9T yesterday and immediately upgraded to latest 2012. 

My issue is the brilliance effect (like satin) I don't have with a white 1.0 screen which look "matt".
Actually what I am seeing seem to match others description of a typical glitter effect some got with "technical" screen (ALR or ALR UST). 

What triggers that effect (as you another projector does not show this behaviour), laser power ? If so I wonder if others with a LSP7T are seeing this as well...
Lens orientation which are making reflections different ?


----------



## JereyWolf

dfx59 said:


> Sorry but cannot answer this. I received the LSP9T yesterday and immediately upgraded to latest 2012.
> 
> My issue is the brilliance effect (like satin) I don't have with a white 1.0 screen which look "matt".
> Actually what I am seeing seem to match others description of a typical glitter effect some got with "technical" screen (ALR or ALR UST).
> 
> What triggers that effect (as you another projector does not show this behaviour), laser power ? If so I wonder if others with a LSP7T are seeing this as well...
> Lens orientation which are making reflections different ?


I'm guessing the effect is caused by the RGB laser system. I know that I've read the LSP7T does not display the same effect.


----------



## dfx59

JereyWolf said:


> I'm guessing the effect is caused by the RGB laser system. I know that I've read the LSP7T does not display the same effect.


Will try to get one this week and compare the lsp7t vs lsp9t side by side here.


----------



## JereyWolf

dfx59 said:


> Will try to get one this week and compare the lsp7t vs lsp9t side by side here.


@d0nd wrote a good comparison of those two in post #525 on this thread.


----------



## Kev1000000

The "rainbow mist", "glitter", or what my wife calls it... "greasy phone screen" is certainly the Achilles heal of this projector if your unit + screen combo exhibits it. I had the same issue with my unit on my Viewsonic BCP 120. It absolutely kills the PQ on an otherwise near-perfect image. It's so disheartening.

If anyone figures out how to get rid of it (or if it's only on some units and not others), please let me know. I really want to get this projector to not show the laser speckle.


----------



## Cremer Lee

*Samsung Premiere LSP9T UST Projector on XYScreens 100inch ALR Screen on Daylight Time*





Clients feedback very good!


----------



## newtophoto

1. Is there anyway to reduce latency aside from game mode? Some games still feel a little laggy. 
2. anyone calibrated their screen for skin tones, but feel like skies are way too warm? Is there a way to work around that?


----------



## flam3of4nor

dfx59 said:


> Will try to get one this week and compare the lsp7t vs lsp9t side by side here.


Maybe try rather the LG HU85. The LSP7T has an inferior picture. People say the LG is better in regards of the speckle. I could never compare them on my screen at home.


----------



## flam3of4nor

Kev1000000 said:


> The "rainbow mist", "glitter", or what my wife calls it... "greasy phone screen" is certainly the Achilles heal of this projector if your unit + screen combo exhibits it. I had the same issue with my unit on my Viewsonic BCP 120. It absolutely kills the PQ on an otherwise near-perfect image. It's so disheartening.
> 
> If anyone figures out how to get rid of it (or if it's only on some units and not others), please let me know. I really want to get this projector to not show the laser speckle.


I just checked a bit deeper into the laser speckle effect. In my opinion it is not visible on gain 1.0 white screens. I just tried it out and it vanishes. maybe it is very slightly there if you concentrate on it but its definately not visible with a normal viewing distance on a white screen. I could not even see it when standing right in front of the screen.
On a CLR screen (in my case the Elitescreen) it is very well visible from all viewing distances. The same screen does not produce it when i use a single laser or led projector on it.
So in my opinion the only possibility to not seeing it on the Samsung is not using a CLR screen. I am not sure if the LG shows the same effect on a CLR screen since it does not have the green laser but just a blue one with filter.

For me personally it is a bit annoying but not a deal breaker. Since I first used a regular white screen and switched later to CLR I always thought its an issue with the type of screen but checking deeper now it is indeed the combination of the triple laser with this type of screen and there is no way to get rid of it (apart of using a different type of screen).


----------



## MDesigns

dfx59 said:


> Sorry but cannot answer this. I received the LSP9T yesterday and immediately upgraded to latest 2012.
> 
> My issue is the brilliance effect (like satin) I don't have with a white 1.0 screen which look "matt".
> Actually what I am seeing seem to match others description of a typical glitter effect some got with "technical" screen (ALR or ALR UST).
> 
> What triggers that effect (as you another projector does not show this behaviour), laser power ? If so I wonder if others with a LSP7T are seeing this as well...
> Lens orientation which are making reflections different ?


It is the pure RGB lasers in the Samsung combined with a not suitable screen type. Most other laser projectors have just one blue laser used with a phosphor wheel that is filtered with color wheel to create different colors. Samsungs pure lasers create the speckle, but IMO best option is just to get a screen that doesn't show the issue.


----------



## dfx59

MDesigns said:


> It is the pure RGB lasers in the Samsung combined with a not suitable screen type. Most other laser projectors have just one blue laser used with a phosphor wheel that is filtered with color wheel to create different colors. Samsungs pure lasers create the speckle, but IMO best option is just to get a screen that doesn't show the issue.


Actually the screen is supposed to be a good match for the LSP9T. The vividstorm S-pro is made for UST projectors, if the laser sources of the LSP9T is creating the issue (speckle / glitter effect) which is indeed more exposed but technical grey screens. Who's fault it is ? In any case, I need the screen to be motorized (not the best idea with such screen) but that's my only way today so I cannot get a higher quality ALR UST like the ones from DNP which may show a different result with that projector. Anyway I have ordered the LSP7T to compare, the LG HU85 is not really an option for me, it's 2 years old, more expensive than the LSP9T and specs seem lower here....


----------



## MDesigns

dfx59 said:


> Actually the screen is supposed to be a good match for the LSP9T. The vividstorm S-pro is made for UST projectors, if the laser sources of the LSP9T is creating the issue (speckle / glitter effect) which is indeed more exposed but technical grey screens. Who's fault it is ? In any case, I need the screen to be motorized (not the best idea with such screen) but that's my only way today so I cannot get a higher quality ALR UST like the ones from DNP which may show a different result with that projector. Anyway I have ordered the LSP7T to compare, the LG HU85 is not really an option for me, it's 2 years old, more expensive than the LSP9T and specs seem lower here....


The screen is made for UST projectors, but probably not for true RGB laser projectors. Samsung LSP9T is really the first one of those in this price range. LSP7T is blue laser with phosphor, so probably doesn't show the issue, but it also misses the BT2020 colors. In over 100K$ projectors they have some new techniques to minimize the speckle, even really expensive RGB lasers earlier have had issues with speckle even with standard white screens, but apparently the Samsung does not, at least as bad.


----------



## flam3of4nor

dfx59 said:


> Actually the screen is supposed to be a good match for the LSP9T. The vividstorm S-pro is made for UST projectors, if the laser sources of the LSP9T is creating the issue (speckle / glitter effect) which is indeed more exposed but technical grey screens. Who's fault it is ? In any case, I need the screen to be motorized (not the best idea with such screen) but that's my only way today so I cannot get a higher quality ALR UST like the ones from DNP which may show a different result with that projector. Anyway I have ordered the LSP7T to compare, the LG HU85 is not really an option for me, it's 2 years old, more expensive than the LSP9T and specs seem lower here....


Also the more expensive CLR screen from DNP will have the issue since all screens use more or less the same material. It is not about that. 
Your only option would be a white screen in my opinion if you are so sensitive to it.
The LG may be 2 years old, but it is a much better projector than the lsp7t (not in the same league those two). No matter how old it is. The speckle should not be as visible on the LG cause it uses two blue and one red laser. blue colors usually do not show specle. just ones that use aspects of the red and green lasers. Since it creates green by phosphor (does also not produce speckle). you will have it for sure less on the LG. In red colors it should probably still be there (and probably also in white). At least here in Germany the LG is cheaper than the LSP9T.


----------



## Ricimer

dfx59 said:


> Actually it seems you cannot, if the projector triggers HDR mode automaticaly when it receives a content with the HDR flag. I would suggest to disable HDR output on the shield.


Is there a setting for it on the shield? I didn't find anything of the sort so i changed the resolution to 4k 8bit rgb but even that didn't work?


----------



## JereyWolf

Ricimer said:


> Is there a setting for it on the shield? I didn't find anything of the sort so i changed the resolution to 4k 8bit rgb but even that didn't work?


I think you can disable HDR on the projector itself. 
Go to settings > general > external device manager > disable "input signal plus" for the HDMI port you want to disable HDR.


----------



## JereyWolf

I was able to download firmware 2012.1 from a few of the non-US Samsung web pages but I'm not able to install any of them. I've done USB firmware install previously but for some reason, this time I can't get it to work. I just receive the message "no new updates available".

Firmware 2012.1 can be found here:








The Premiere Triple Laser 4K Smart Projector | Samsung Support Australia


The Premiere Triple Laser 4K Smart Projector. Solutions & Tips, Download User Manual, Contact Us. Samsung Support Australia




www.samsung.com


----------



## Ricimer

JereyWolf said:


> I think you can disable HDR on the projector itself.
> Go to settings > general > external device manager > disable "input signal plus" for the HDMI port you want to disable HDR.


Tried that before, didn't do a thing


----------



## dfx59

Ricimer said:


> Tried that before, didn't do a thing


In settings go to display and audio then advanced display settings -> customized display mode uncheck set by default then go down to display modes (89 modes) and manually select all of them suitable for your display except the "HDR10 ready" ones.
PS: Words here are my translation from nvidia shield 2015 menu (it should be similar on the 2019 models).

Also, you may try 1st to switch on color space mathing so that rec709 are not "upscale" to rec2020 with potential HDR.


----------



## dfx59

Hello, 

I wonder if on auto mode regarding color selection (can be auto, native, personalized) your LSP9T switch between bt709 and bt2020 ? 
Mine look to stick to either one mode but does not change so I configure cinema mode in auto with a bt709 and filmmaker mode in personalized bt2020 while watching HDR content. 
I wish I wouldn't have to change manually using the remote between the 2. 

Also gamma 2.2 is too clear here and actually bt1886 seem more accurate. That options does not seem independant but rather global (when I change it in cinema mode, it also change in filmmaker). Can you confirm this ?

Last do you use dynamic contrast ? To my eyes. In low it's a bit washed out, in high color it looks overstaturated.

Regards,


----------



## JereyWolf

dfx59 said:


> Last do you use dynamic contrast ? To my eyes. In low it's a bit washed out, in high color it looks overstaturated.


I think that Dynamic contrast crushes blacks in SDR. 
I think it's essential to use for good looking HDR.


----------



## dfx59

flam3of4nor said:


> Also the more expensive CLR screen from DNP will have the issue since all screens use more or less the same material. It is not about that.
> Your only option would be a white screen in my opinion if you are so sensitive to it.
> The LG may be 2 years old, but it is a much better projector than the lsp7t (not in the same league those two). No matter how old it is. The speckle should not be as visible on the LG cause it uses two blue and one red laser. blue colors usually do not show specle. just ones that use aspects of the red and green lasers. Since it creates green by phosphor (does also not produce speckle). you will have it for sure less on the LG. In red colors it should probably still be there (and probably also in white). At least here in Germany the LG is cheaper than the LSP9T.


So for UST projectors one needs UST screen to avoid hotspot but in the case of the LSP9T because it introduce that brilliance it's actually better to stay with a white regular screen ? 
Good to know and what a pity....! Those speckles are really affecting / ruining my LSP9T experience... strange not so many reported that before.
In the end, if I had to resume, I either have accept what it is (new installation not up to my expectations) or to send back the projector and choose something else or send back that UST ALR screen.... I ordered the LSP7T should receive it early next week. I will decide then.


----------



## JereyWolf

Ricimer said:


> Tried that before, didn't do a thing


That's surprising...because when I disable "input signal plus" it stops the HDR from being enabled on the projector (using Nvidia shield). My PC also will not recognize the projector as HDR capable when that setting is disabled.


----------



## avsenthusiast

dfx59 said:


> What triggers that effect (as you another projector does not show this behaviour), laser power ? If so I wonder if others with a LSP7T are seeing this as well...
> Lens orientation which are making reflections different ?


These are great questions. I was planning on getting the LSP9T and the "Vividstorm 120" Floor Rising Screen for UST screen" but I am repeatedly discouraged by the sighting of "glitter and/or speckle." 

My dealer has a direct line to the Samsung Regional Rep and he told me I can ask him any question I want, so I asked about this "speckle or glitter" issue. But now he wants some "references," ie. links. 

I am pretty sure he is not going to spend time reading through this entire thread, plus there is conflicting information about how some people are seeing this issue and some others who don't, so I thought I should focus on sharing some specific posts that speak more definitively about this issue.

Does anyone know of specific posts or links that describes this issue more definitively?


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> Does anyone know of specific posts or links that describes this issue more definitively?


I think the best explanation I've heard of how it looks is rainbow mist on the screen that you have to look through. It's especially visible in large patches of solid bright colors.


----------



## dfx59

avsscientist said:


> These are great questions. I was planning on getting the LSP9T and the "Vividstorm 120" Floor Rising Screen for UST screen" but I am repeatedly discouraged by the sighting of "glitter and/or speckle."
> 
> My dealer has a direct line to the Samsung Regional Rep and he told me I can ask him any question I want, so I asked about this "speckle or glitter" issue. But now he wants some "references," ie. links.
> 
> I am pretty sure he is not going to spend time reading through this entire thread, plus there is conflicting information about how some people are seeing this issue and some others who don't, so I thought I should focus on sharing some specific posts that speak more definitively about this issue.
> 
> Does anyone know of specific posts or links that describes this issue more definitively?


I wish I can make photos or videos but the sensor of my 12 pro max refused to be accurate. 

@JereyWolf on post #601 how did you manage to get those pictures ? DSLR ?


----------



## JereyWolf

dfx59 said:


> I wish I can make photos or videos but the sensor of my 12 pro max refused to be accurate.
> @JereyWolf on post #601 how did you manage to get those pictures ? DSLR ?


In post #601 the photos were taken with my Samsung Galaxy S9.
Here's another photo taken with the phone from about 12" away form the screen...trying to capture the speckle.
I'm not sure if it's possible to accurately display the rainbow speckle in a photo....in this image it sort of shows up as a grainy speckled effect but the rainbow color is lost.

I could see the speckle on every surface I tested; the beige wall, a cardboard sheet, grey EVA foam sheet, white paper.


----------



## bennutt

JereyWolf said:


> In post #601 the photos were taken with my Samsung Galaxy S9.
> Here's another photo taken with the phone from about 12" away form the screen...trying to capture the speckle.
> I'm not sure if it's possible to accurately display the rainbow speckle in a photo....in this image it sort of shows up as a grainy speckled effect but the rainbow color is lost.
> 
> I could see the speckle on every surface I tested; the beige wall, a cardboard sheet, grey EVA foam sheet, white paper.
> 
> 
> View attachment 3145568


Not sure if this will help anything, but I was playing around with my Vertex2 yesterday to put Dolby Vision profiles on my LG.
If I switched from BT2020 to REC709, the LG red sparkle lit up just like the Samsung did.
When I switched it back to a BT2020 profile it went back to a bright, yet normal, red color.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JereyWolf

bennutt said:


> Not sure if this will help anything, but I was playing around with my Vertex2 yesterday to put Dolby Vision profiles on my LG.
> If I switched from BT2020 to REC709, the LG red sparkle lit up just like the Samsung did.
> When I switched it back to a BT2020 profile it went back to a bright, yet normal, red color.
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I just tried each of the color spaces and couldn't see any difference in speckle. 
To be clear, speckle is visible for me at a normal viewing distance....but it doesn't really bother me. 
I wouldn't be upset if it was gone. I definitely enjoyed the lack of speckling when I tested the LG HU85LA, but it's hardly an issue for me on this projector.


----------



## Akula13

Just bought LSP9 in Australia for about 4400$ (USD) or 5900 AUD. I was watching LG HU85 for long time but it was so expensive like 12k from local dealers or 6500 AUD from Korea (Ebay). Also LSP7 was selling for about 2170 USD with 120" ALR screen worth 1650 USD. The price has come down crashing. LSP9 is still selling for 5600 USD after cash rebates.
Reading this forum, many have pointed out the higher price of sammy. At this price point now, wondering if it would change anyone's mind ? Would you tolerate CA issues and speckles ?


----------



## dfx59

Akula13 said:


> Just bought LSP9 in Australia for about 4400$ (USD) or 5900 AUD. I was watching LG HU85 for long time but it was so expensive like 12k from local dealers or 6500 AUD from Korea (Ebay). Also LSP7 was selling for about 2170 USD with 120" ALR screen worth 1650 USD. The price has come down crashing. LSP9 is still selling for 5600 USD after cash rebates.
> Reading this forum, many have pointed out the higher price of sammy. At this price point now, wondering if it would change anyone's mind ? Would you tolerate CA issues and speckles ?


At 1650 usd with a 120' ALR screen it's a no brainer for the LSP7T.


----------



## JunMKC

Just got the lsp9t and looking for best fixed screen to go with.
What would be the best 100~110" fixed screen to purchase?
New to projector world so just wanted to ask.
Thanks!


----------



## dfx59

JunMKC said:


> Just got the lsp9t and looking for best fixed screen to go with.
> What would be the best 100~110" fixed screen to purchase?
> New to projector world so just wanted to ask.
> Thanks!


Well... IMHO the best screens (fixed) are made by DNP - Danemark. You should contact them to determinate a reseller in the US.


----------



## JereyWolf

JunMKC said:


> Just got the lsp9t and looking for best fixed screen to go with.
> What would be the best 100~110" fixed screen to purchase?
> New to projector world so just wanted to ask.
> Thanks!


This might help your search:








Shop Ultra Short Throw (UST) Projector Screens | ProjectorScreen.com: 110 to 119


Get the absolute best picture possible. Replace your TV with an ultra short throw projector screen for the ultimate viewing experience. Get the most from your UST projector even in a well-lit room. Shop Now!




www.projectorscreen.com





@ProjectionHead has been able to test this projector with a variety of screens so he could also give you some info from direct experience.


----------



## justbenice

Anyone notice that this Projector have a very red color, that kind of red with no contrast when watching football? I know this projector have un real red color some time but i only notice it so red when watching football last night. I use vividstorm alr ust screen.


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## Tophe_fr

Use Manual color space and chose Rec 709 (i suppose your football is not HDR). I noticed that sometimes Auto mode does not use the correct color space.
Same for most HDR content, i use DPI-C3 and not REC-2020 because i find that the red, green and blue are to vivid and not naturals (on both my BD player DP-UB820 and my Shield 2019).


----------



## dfx59

Tophe_fr said:


> Use Manual color space and chose Rec 709 (i suppose your football is not HDR). I noticed that sometimes Auto mode does not use the correct color space.
> Same for most HDR content, i use DPI-C3 and not REC-2020 because i find that the red, green and blue are to vivid and not naturals (on both my BD player DP-UB820 and my Shield 2019).


That's correct, for me Auto mode does not change between rec.709 and rec.2020. 
So I have cinema and filmmaker modes to "profiles" I pick either for SDR or HDR content with personalized color settings.


----------



## dfx59

dfx59 said:


> So for UST projectors one needs UST screen to avoid hotspot but in the case of the LSP9T because it introduce that brilliance it's actually better to stay with a white regular screen ?
> Good to know and what a pity....! Those speckles are really affecting / ruining my LSP9T experience... strange not so many reported that before.
> In the end, if I had to resume, I either have accept what it is (new installation not up to my expectations) or to send back the projector and choose something else or send back that UST ALR screen.... I ordered the LSP7T should receive it early next week. I will decide then.


I took possession of the LSP7T today (top, above the Sony VZ1000). 
I will report in more details later but from what I am seeing, way less (if any) speckles/brilliance on the vividstorm especially on whites. 
Way more luminosity with the LSP9 (on the ground), potentially deeper blacks (to be confirmed after some movies). 
PS: Both units are using 2012 fw and will have the same Cinema / Filmmaker modes I am using. 
Same source (Atv 2021 associated with a Lumagen Radiance pro 4242 DTM for HDR, each of the two 9G output goes to a different LSP).
My wife is RBE sensitive (she noticed them with the LSP9, not so much for me), let's see what she thinks of the LSP7 this evening 
Best,


----------



## avsenthusiast

dfx59 said:


> I took possession of the LSP7T today (top, above the Sony VZ1000).
> I will report in more details later but from what I am seeing, way less (if any) speckles/brilliance on the vividstorm especially on whites.
> Way more luminosity with the LSP9 (on the ground), potentially deeper blacks (to be confirmed after some movies).


Eagerly awaiting your results, I don't think I can stand the "speckles" if it is a permanent "feature/defect" on the LSP9T.


----------



## avsenthusiast

Akula13 said:


> Just bought LSP9 in Australia for about 4400$ (USD) or 5900 AUD.


Why is LSP9T so cheap in Australia? In Canada it just went on sale last week for $7999 CAD ($6581 USD) but it's still way more expensive than it's current US price of $5197



Akula13 said:


> Reading this forum, many have pointed out the higher price of sammy. At this price point now, wondering if it would change anyone's mind ? Would you tolerate CA issues and speckles ?


CA -- if it's mild or if it's only visible when viewed with several inches, then it's tolerable
Speckles -- again depends at what viewing distance does it show up, AND if it appears on white backgrounds only or constantly everywhere.


----------



## flam3of4nor

I think people here focus too much on the speckle. I own projectors since 25 years and i am usually very sensitive to issues with the image quality but at least with my unit and the Elitescreen CLR the speckle is very minor. It is there yes but far from being a problem… All triple laser projectors on the market - No matter if it is a professional one or a consumer one produce a speckle. Its simple physics. So either go with a single laser (or dual laser like the LG) to reduce it or live with it. If you have red, green and blue lasers there is no way around it. Of course the triple laser setups have other advantages. Thats why they are also used in professional setups. 
Maybe you guys should more concentrate on the movie and not try to find faults in the picture. Cause the LSP9T throws a gorgeous image if it is setup correctly. It is overall the best UST on the market.
If you re not happy with its speckle or CA another screen or changed settings will not fix it. Then just send it back and take a cheaper single chip UST. Nevertheless no Singlechip UST will have a picture as good as the Samsung. The small DMD chip on them is inferior.


----------



## Javs

Akula13 said:


> Just bought LSP9 in Australia for about 4400$ (USD) or 5900 AUD. I


Where from mate?


----------



## JereyWolf

flam3of4nor said:


> I think people here focus too much on the speckle. I own projectors since 25 years and i am usually very sensitive to issues with the image quality but at least with my unit and the Elitescreen CLR the speckle is very minor. It is there yes but far from being a problem… All triple laser projectors on the market - No matter if it is a professional one or a consumer one produce a speckle. Its simple physics. So either go with a single laser (or dual laser like the LG) to reduce it or live with it. If you have red, green and blue lasers there is no way around it. Of course the triple laser setups have other advantages. Thats why they are also used in professional setups.
> Maybe you guys should more concentrate on the movie and not try to find faults in the picture. Cause the LSP9T throws a gorgeous image if it is setup correctly. It is overall the best UST on the market.
> If you re not happy with its speckle or CA another screen or changed settings will not fix it. Then just send it back and take a cheaper single chip UST. Nevertheless no Singlechip UST will have a picture as good as the Samsung. The small DMD chip on them is inferior.


I agree with this sentiment. It seems like some people are scared off by the speckle without having seen it before.
I see it as a very minor issue that I honestly don't even notice most of the time...until I tune into it and start looking for it.


----------



## avsenthusiast

flam3of4nor said:


> Maybe you guys should more concentrate on the movie and not try to find faults in the picture. Cause the LSP9T throws a gorgeous image if it is setup correctly. It is overall the best UST on the market.


In fact, the first thing I am going to do when I receive my LSP9T is to play my favorite tv shows, movies and Planet Earth in 4k to see if I can detect any of these "speckles" or other "faults" that will ruin the enjoyment or be more distracting than my current Sony projector.

If I can't visually see any of it, then I will be keeping the projector. 

For scientific interest though, I will do some tests to find out when these "speckles" show up and hopefully one of my high refresh rate cameras will be able to capture them. 

I will also probably build an excel table to properly quantify the amount of measured vs perceived speckle and test different content with different illumination types in the room. Perhaps there might be a scenario where the speckle is not perceivable or below threshold of perception, then I will share my findings.


----------



## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> I agree with this sentiment. It seems like some people are scared off by the speckle without having seen it before.
> I see it as a very minor issue that I honestly don't even notice most of the time...until I tune into it and start looking for it.


I will be receiving my LSP9T soon, @JereyWolf could you elaborate a bit what you mean by "tune into it", I will try to see if I can reproduce the same observations. If you could provide me with more details that would be fantastic, such as, viewing distance, illumination level in room, content type, refresh rate, HD vs 4K, is one screen type more prominent than the other etc..

Thanks in advance.


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> I will be receiving my LSP9T soon, @JereyWolf could you elaborate a bit what you mean by "tune into it", I will try to see if I can reproduce the same observations. If you could provide me with more details that would be fantastic, such as, viewing distance, illumination level in room, content type, refresh rate, HD vs 4K, is one screen type more prominent than the other etc..
> 
> Thanks in advance.


By tune into it I meant that my mind gets distracted by it. It's the same way I was with RBE when I first started using this projector. When I'm just sitting back and enjoying content, speckle is usually not something I even think about. 

I don't think any adjustments to settings make it more or less visible. Many people have said they can't see it unless they are within a foot of the screen. I feel that I can see the speckle from my seat, about 16 feet back (120" UST screen). It's most noticeable on large areas of solid, bright colors or white. 
If I put my face right next to the screen I can see an RGB speckle pattern....maybe that's what people mean when they say they can only see it up close. 
From my seat I still feel like I can see the speckle, but I can't distinguish any of the RGB color that's visible up close.


----------



## justbenice

I am with the LSP9T and Vividstorm 120inch ALR UST screen. I sit 5metter away of the screen and from day 1 till now i haven't see any rainbow or RBE or speckle. Even the problem with white character have pink and blue color arround, i haven't know or notice it untill i read it here


----------



## dfx59

justbenice said:


> I am with the LSP9T and Vividstorm 120inch ALR UST screen. I sit 5metter away of the screen and from day 1 till now i haven't see any rainbow or RBE or speckle. Even the problem with white character have pink and blue color arround, i haven't know or notice it untill i read it here


Well it depends on your viewing "experience" and are your expectations. Just like some are sensible to RBE, some others not. 

My screen is less than 3m away from sofa and definitely I can easily notice issues on the vividstorm, maybee my LSP9 has a problem. 

My wife & I both noticed RBE (not so many), one every 15min or so and actually I potentially got fewer of them with the LSP7 (which has got a color wheel so potentially worse on paper).

My wife is an art director working daily with Illustrator / photoshop etc... she knows what good colour are supposed to look like while I am less sensitive to that. 
She can easily notice the tight red colour around characters while she had to point it to me so that I see it. 
I would say it's a matter of attention and sensitivity. As the speckle they seem to be related to the tri laser RBG source and they are really present to my eyes on large uniform & clear part of a picture.


----------



## justbenice

dfx59 said:


> Well it depends on your viewing "experience" and are your expectations. Just like some are sensible to RBE, some others not.
> 
> My screen is less than 3m away from sofa and definitely I can easily notice issues on the vividstorm, maybee my LSP9 has a problem.
> 
> My wife & I both noticed RBE (not so many), one every 15min or so and actually I potentially got fewer of them with the LSP7 (which has got a color wheel so potentially worse on paper).
> 
> My wife is an art director working daily with Illustrator / photoshop etc... she knows what good colour are supposed to look like while I am less sensitive to that.
> She can easily notice the tight red colour around characters while she had to point it to me so that I see it.
> I would say it's a matter of attention and sensitivity. As the speckle they seem to be related to the tri laser RBG source and they are really present to my eyes on large uniform & clear part of a picture.


I think less than 3 metters is so close to the 120inch screen. Your eye and head will get tired very fast!
I am also a photographer which is working with photoshop everyday so i am very senstive with color, brighnes and contrast too. The LSP9T don't have beautifull color and picture quality is just so so (i also own a samsung 88inch ks9800 samsung top flag to compare), but for 4500$ projector with 2800 lumens i think it is acceptable (I bought a open box projector).


----------



## dfx59

justbenice said:


> I think less than 3 metters is so close to the 120inch screen. Your eye and head will get tired very fast!
> I am also a photographer which is working with photoshop everyday so i am very senstive with color, brighnes and contrast too. The LSP9T don't have beautifull color and picture quality is just so so (i also own a samsung 88inch ks9800 samsung top flag to compare), but for 4500$ projector with 2800 lumens i think it is acceptable (I bought a open box projector).


As far as I know, standards are saying 1.2 - 1.5x from base screen so 120" = 2.65meters 2.65*1,2 = 3,2meters so I am a bit near but those standards were ment at the HD era not for 4k/UHD. 
If you think about display sizes not we've got much bigger (from 42" for Full HD to 55 to 65" UHD) standard sizes and still distance screen to sofa has not changed, houses/appartments are designed the same way...Your TV is 50% bigger than before and I don't think that's a problem. 
I intended a demo at a high end / professional manufacturer, the screen was 4m base cinemascope, sofa was at 4,5meters. Was really impressive ! 
Actually I would put a 3m base instead of that 120" / 2,65 if a UST could accomodate that ....


----------



## avsenthusiast

justbenice said:


> I am also a photographer which is working with photoshop everyday so i am very senstive with color, brighnes and contrast too. The LSP9T don't have beautifull color and picture quality is just so so ..


I also manage images on post-processing software on a daily basis so I am very disappointed to hear from another visual artist about LSP9T's "so so" quality. 

I guess I will be able to tell and see for myself whether I can live with it once I receive the projector! 

I also don't know which projector I can "upgrade to" from LSP9T in this price range, and I am not sure if those $20,000 range JVC and Sony models can compete with LSP9T's lumen or colors.


----------



## garetjaxor

avsscientist said:


> I also manage images on post-processing software on a daily basis so I am very disappointed to hear from another visual artist about LSP9T's "so so" quality.
> 
> I guess I will be able to tell and see for myself whether I can live with it once I receive the projector!
> 
> I also don't know which projector I can "upgrade to" from LSP9T in this price range, and I am not sure if those $20,000 range JVC and Sony models can compete with LSP9T's lumen or colors.


The new Hisense triple laser should be coming out soon. I believe projectorcentral is getting an early unit soon and will be doing a preview. They have 3 different models coming out.


----------



## justbenice

avsscientist said:


> I also manage images on post-processing software on a daily basis so I am very disappointed to hear from another visual artist about LSP9T's "so so" quality.
> 
> I guess I will be able to tell and see for myself whether I can live with it once I receive the projector!
> 
> I also don't know which projector I can "upgrade to" from LSP9T in this price range, and I am not sure if those $20,000 range JVC and Sony models can compete with LSP9T's lumen or colors.


My monitor when i working is Asus ProArt PA32UC , my camera is Sony A7R4, my lens are most of the Sony GM lens. So there are noway the projector that can make me feel good picture quality. Even the LG Oled or the Samsung 88KS9800 can't compare.
As i research, there are some projector like JVC NX5, NX7 can give us best picture quality with deep black. But i don't like dark room because i usally eating and playing with my kid when watching movies so i need the room that not too dark. So the LG H85 or the LSP9T are my only choice.
The think that make me feel the picture of this projector is not good mostly because the back leverl not good, and the red color also look quite unreal. But this projector have very good bright and the picture details are exemtre good even in 120inch screen. So i think it is a acceptable projector. As my Samsung LCD 88inch TV, i bought it at near 9k usd 2-3 years ago so i don't think that Samsung or any another brand can make a laser projector 130inch onlly 5k usd and the picture can compare with the LCD, so i haven't put too much hope in this projector from the first days already.

I think the best of us is using the LSP9T and wait till the Oled or MicroLed 110-120inch get cheaper then buy the TV  .








I can watch TV, Movies, Football at this big and bright and good details and my room still have some light at my seat to do my things, eat-drink, play...etc.


----------



## justbenice

dfx59 said:


> As far as I know, standards are saying 1.2 - 1.5x from base screen so 120" = 2.65meters 2.65*1,2 = 3,2meters so I am a bit near but those standards were ment at the HD era not for 4k/UHD.
> If you think about display sizes not we've got much bigger (from 42" for Full HD to 55 to 65" UHD) standard sizes and still distance screen to sofa has not changed, houses/appartments are designed the same way...Your TV is 50% bigger than before and I don't think that's a problem.
> I intended a demo at a high end / professional manufacturer, the screen was 4m base cinemascope, sofa was at 4,5meters. Was really impressive !
> Actually I would put a 3m base instead of that 120" / 2,65 if a UST could accomodate that ....


Yes,i also notice that the pictures detail of this projector is very good at 3meters too. But i feel quite headache when watching fast actiion movies at 3meters so i seat at 5meters. I think maybe that because the refesh rate of this screen not good or the black level not good (make the movies don't have enough contrast so my eye have to focus harder).
By the way, i am 42 years old and and i can play FPS game with my 32 inch monitor 60hz at distant 0.8metter for few hours without tired, but I don't know why i could not seat at 3 metter in this 120 inch screen for only one movie


----------



## bblackbu

New Software Update Available! - I noticed last night that there was a software update available in the Settings menu, so I downloaded and installed. I can't tell of any obvious changes... has anybody else tried the new update and do you know what might have changed? The Samsung website still shows the old update file.


----------



## garetjaxor

garetjaxor said:


> The new Hisense triple laser should be coming out soon. I believe projectorcentral is getting an early unit soon and will be doing a preview. They have 3 different models coming out.


Oops that should have been projectorscreendotcom I can't remember where I saw it - I think it was youtube comments by projectorhead on one of their videos that Hisense was in their office last week - really interested to see how their triple laser compares


----------



## JereyWolf

bblackbu said:


> New Software Update Available! - I noticed last night that there was a software update available in the Settings menu, so I downloaded and installed. I can't tell of any obvious changes... has anybody else tried the new update and do you know what might have changed? The Samsung website still shows the old update file.


I finally received firmware 2012.1 this week also (through auto update). Unfortunately, Samsung is not releasing information about the changes in each update. I didn't notice any changes.


----------



## JereyWolf

justbenice said:


> The think that make me feel the picture of this projector is not good mostly because the back leverl not good, and the red color also look quite unreal.


Are you able to calibrate the projector to help with the unreal red that you see?


----------



## justbenice

JereyWolf said:


> Are you able to calibrate the projector to help with the unreal red that you see?


I did change to Movie Maker mode and do some setting change to make the red are less too red but it still look unreal.
By the way i can live with the red color unreal because i don't need real color in movies  But the black level is quite disapointed. After 10 days i still feel uncomfortable. I hope i will feel comfortable in next month. I can't ask for more in this projector because i came from the Samsung quantum TV series 9 with local dimming.


----------



## JereyWolf

justbenice said:


> I did change to Movie Maker mode and do some setting change to make the red are less too red but it still look unreal.
> By the way i can live with the red color unreal because i don't need real color in movies  But the black level is quite disapointed. After 10 days i still feel uncomfortable. I hope i will feel comfortable in next month. I can't ask for more in this projector because i came from the Samsung quantum TV series 9 with local dimming.


On my unit, I set shadow detail to -2 to improve black level, with gamma setting at default value. 
Are you disappointed with black level in dark room lighting conditions or only when there is ambient light in the room?


----------



## justbenice

JereyWolf said:


> On my unit, I set shadow detail to -2 to improve black level, with gamma setting at default value.
> Are you disappointed with black level in dark room lighting conditions or only when there is ambient light in the room?


Ofcourse I disappponted with the black level even in total dark room condition.
About the shadow detail i set to -2 to -3 to rise the contrast to keep my eye comfortable to watch but it loss alot of detail in dark sence.
That why i said this projector is bad at black level - Why we have to loss detail in dark sence to have contrast?


----------



## avsenthusiast

justbenice said:


> Ofcourse I disappponted with the black level even in total dark room condition.
> About the shadow detail i set to -2 to -3 to rise the contrast to keep my eye comfortable to watch but it loss alot of detail in dark sence.
> That why i said this projector is bad at black level - Why we have to loss detail in dark sence to have contrast?


I wonder if some of these issues can be improved by more precise calibration using instruments? I don't even trust my eyes even though I deal with high res images using properly calibrated 5k DCI-P3 monitors.

Calman software does support Samsung TVs, but it doesn't mention on their site whether it supports this model. 

Also I am having a hard time finding a 4k signal generator that doesn't break the bank. The "VirtualForge Software Pattern Generator" costs a whopping $495 as a "convenient altternative, standard hardware generators" as if itself is not expensive enough. 

But if it works properly then maybe it's worth it, has anyone found a calibration software + pattern generator that improve the colors on LSP9T?


----------



## avsenthusiast

garetjaxor said:


> Oops that should have been projectorscreendotcom I can't remember where I saw it - I think it was youtube comments by projectorhead on one of their videos that Hisense was in their office last week - really interested to see how their triple laser compares


If it's Hisense, I think they will bring out something decent at a cheaper price point than Samsung, not to mention the possibility of a matching screen set that optimizes the strengths of the projector.

Samsung LSP9T's release seems rushed without any screen manufacturer's co-development that optimizes its 3-laser system. According to my dealer's Samsung rep, they are still working on finding a screen manufacturer that pairs well with LSP9T. But Samsung is probably having a hard time because it's not a high-volume item so the Chinese factories are not giving them a break.


----------



## avsenthusiast

justbenice said:


> As i research, there are some projector like JVC NX5, NX7 can give us best picture quality with deep black. But i don't like dark room because i usally eating and playing with my kid when watching movies so i need the room that not too dark. So the LG H85 or the LSP9T


We have all our reasons for wanting the LG85 or LSP9. My room is dark but to get 130" I will have to open up an ugly hole on my back wall to get the throw distance if I use a traditional projector like Sonys or JVC NX5/7. 

So for me LSP9T is a "practical" solution not a preferred one for best IQ. Not to mention it DOES NOT HAVE 3D!!


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> I wonder if some of these issues can be improved by more precise calibration using instruments? I don't even trust my eyes even though I deal with high res images using properly calibrated 5k DCI-P3 monitors.
> 
> Calman software does support Samsung TVs, but it doesn't mention on their site whether it supports this model.
> 
> Also I am having a hard time finding a 4k signal generator that doesn't break the bank. The "VirtualForge Software Pattern Generator" costs a whopping $495 as a "convenient altternative, standard hardware generators" as if itself is not expensive enough.
> 
> But if it works properly then maybe it's worth it, has anyone found a calibration software + pattern generator that improve the colors on LSP9T?


HCFR is free calibration software with built in pattern generators. I use that with an XRite i1display pro for calibration. I think the results are great and make a massive difference to the stock image of the projector.


----------



## justbenice

avsscientist said:


> I wonder if some of these issues can be improved by more precise calibration using instruments? I don't even trust my eyes even though I deal with high res images using properly calibrated 5k DCI-P3 monitors.
> 
> Calman software does support Samsung TVs, but it doesn't mention on their site whether it supports this model.
> 
> Also I am having a hard time finding a 4k signal generator that doesn't break the bank. The "VirtualForge Software Pattern Generator" costs a whopping $495 as a "convenient altternative, standard hardware generators" as if itself is not expensive enough.
> 
> But if it works properly then maybe it's worth it, has anyone found a calibration software + pattern generator that improve the colors on LSP9T?


I acttualy don't believe that we can "calibration" to make the screen look good, it will have color more accuracy after calibration only. Like my work, i have to calibration my mointor because i need correct color when photoshop pictures so my viewers can see it correct in all kind of screen (iphone, samsung, oled, lcd, ips,..ect). To have good picture quality, the screen must have good contrast, good black level, good detail in shadow and highlight plus good color. And there are no way we can calibration it if the screen don't have it.
So, don't wast money in those "precise calibration instruments". Different peoples will have different taste in color tone, and color corection don't make the screen look better at all.


----------



## SaulP

The LSP9T is on sale today on the Samsung website. With my discount it would be $1800 off ($4700). I’m tempted to pull the trigger although the home into which this will go won’t be ready for 6 months. I wonder if this discount indicates that Samsung may be launching a new model.


----------



## avsenthusiast

justbenice said:


> I acttualy don't believe that we can "calibration" to make the screen look good, it will have color more accuracy after calibration only.


I didn't know you are having "screen" issues. I thought you said you don't like the colors of LSP9T that's why I suggested instrument calibration to bring it to standards. 

Speaking of screens, is it the consensus now no matter what screen to use (eg. regular, UST, ALR) it will still show speckle? 

If yes to this question, I think I will go with the Vividstorm S Storm, seems like a reasonable pick for UST projectors.


----------



## iunknown2008

garetjaxor said:


> Oops that should have been projectorscreendotcom I can't remember where I saw it - I think it was youtube comments by projectorhead on one of their videos that Hisense was in their office last week - really interested to see how their triple laser compares


 I think its only 100" though.


----------



## justbenice

avsscientist said:


> I didn't know you are having "screen" issues. I thought you said you don't like the colors of LSP9T that's why I suggested instrument calibration to bring it to standards.
> 
> Speaking of screens, is it the consensus now no matter what screen to use (eg. regular, UST, ALR) it will still show speckle?
> 
> If yes to this question, I think I will go with the Vividstorm S Storm, seems like a reasonable pick for UST projectors.


The "screen" in that post i mean monitor, tv, projector.


----------



## justbenice

SaulP said:


> The LSP9T is on sale today on the Samsung website. With my discount it would be $1800 off ($4700). I’m tempted to pull the trigger although the home into which this will go won’t be ready for 6 months. I wonder if this discount indicates that Samsung may be launching a new model.


I am having the same idea. Because Amazon list it as Model 2020. So Samsung may have 2021 model soon.


----------



## avsenthusiast

Does anyone of you think my dealer is right? 

He said these Samsung 1st gen UST projectors not good quality and recommends that I go with JVC or Sony instead because Samsung uses cheap lens from China so each lens is not uniform and especially in the corners. 

I seriously hope he is not right because aside from the speckle and color issues, is ”soft corner” another issue?


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> Does anyone of you think my dealer is right?
> 
> He said these Samsung 1st gen UST projectors not good quality and recommends that I go with JVC or Sony instead because Samsung uses cheap lens from China so each lens is not uniform and especially in the corners.
> 
> I seriously hope he is not right because aside from the speckle and color issues, is ”soft corner” another issue?


It's not an issue on my unit... and I don't remember seeing it come up on here before.


----------



## SaulP

JereyWolf said:


> It's not an issue on my unit... and I don't remember seeing it come up on here before.





avsscientist said:


> Does anyone of you think my dealer is right?
> 
> He said these Samsung 1st gen UST projectors not good quality and recommends that I go with JVC or Sony instead because Samsung uses cheap lens from China so each lens is not uniform and especially in the corners.
> 
> I seriously hope he is not right because aside from the speckle and color issues, is ”soft corner” another issue?


Sounds like you need a new dealer. Some PJ’s certainly have better lenses than other, but I’m not sure that it has to do with country of origin. My BenQ has (presumably) a Chinese lens and is sharper than any PJ I’ve owned or seen. Beside, JVC doesn’t make a UST PJ that could possibly be an alternative to the Samsung and Sony’s is 3 x the price and older tech.


----------



## dfx59

avsscientist said:


> Does anyone of you think my dealer is right?
> 
> He said these Samsung 1st gen UST projectors not good quality and recommends that I go with JVC or Sony instead because Samsung uses cheap lens from China so each lens is not uniform and especially in the corners.
> 
> I seriously hope he is not right because aside from the speckle and color issues, is ”soft corner” another issue?


I am returning the LSP9 & LSP7 on Monday and back to regular projection with a long throw projector.
PS: The LSP7 is worse in terms of RBE due to color wheel, not as sharp due to 0.47" DMD instead of 0.6" on the LSP9, less lumens and potentially a bit less contrast but colours seemed more correct out of the Box in Rec.709/P3/Rec.2020 I tested. 
Only good point it has got to my eyes is that it shows way less speckles which tends to indicate Samsung just do not master tri laser technology. 
Remember, it's their 1st product using it.... 

As I am hoping/expecting to get a projector with has no RBE, better contrast (1000:1 on the samsung is 10 times less than a cheap tri-lcd projector) and blacks, uniformity and lens quality (sharpness)...
I may end up with less lumens (post calibration) and no full Bt/Rec.2020 coverage (but who cares given there is no content available with such wide colors).
I also don't need the smarttv features which are better covered by a $200 atv or shield. Same goes for tuner and build in speakers.

Regarding lumens keep in mind a ALR UST screen will "eat" 40% of the projector brightness and does not really improve contrast.
This results is a less brilliant/vivid picture in dimmed room / with closed shades compared to long throw projectors in the same price range. 
Especially true with HDR content and big screens were 26 fL is a minimum and some recommend 40 fL. Actually, only during daylight results will be better.

For a laser tv in the living room it might be acceptable / good (if you can accomodate & your wife agrees with a 120" screen fixed or motorized) but, in nay case, will not be at the level of an OLED Tv (I own 2) which in the ends comes for less then 3k here in 77" (compared to 6k LSP9+2k with taxes screen)...
As a projector to watch movies in dimmed rooms (not necessarily dedicated) it's not that good (well I could even say pretty bad due to the speckles with the vividstorm s-pro I am seeing, low contrast and blacks plus other issues. Nonetheless as said previously in this forum; not all LSP9 are served the same and this might be partly due to cheap "chineese"? optics) and the reasons I am returning it while the shop offered me to replace my units and try another one...

Keep in mind the Samsungs are consumers produits, the value proposition for a tri-laser was appealing, the result is not on part (this is only my judgement). 

To conclude a JVC N5 (or better a N7) + motorized 2.40-3m screen _AND_ an OLED 65 or 77 will give much better results (even in the living room) compared to that LSP9T for about the same budget.....

Regards,


----------



## justbenice

I don't know because the new 2012.0 firmware or my eye get used to the projector or the projector get better itself after the "burning time" but i feel it quite good for the last 2 days. I am now quite enjoy watching it everynight.


----------



## avsenthusiast

dfx59 said:


> Regarding lumens keep in mind a ALR UST screen will "eat" 40% of the projector brightness and does not really improve contrast.
> This results is a less brilliant/vivid picture in dimmed room / with closed shades compared to long throw projectors in the same price range.
> 
> As a projector to watch movies in dimmed rooms (not necessarily dedicated) it's not that good (well I could even say pretty bad due to the speckles with the vividstorm s-pro I am seeing, low contrast and blacks plus other issues.


@dfx59 it sounds like we had the same intentions, replacing a long-throw with a tri-laser UST that promises better colors and contrast. 

I also planned on getting the motorlized Vividstorm S too to pair with this LSP9T, but it doesn't seem like a good idea anymore.

Alright I will at least wait until the LSP9T to arrive and see for myself how it is after upgrading to latest firmware, and then decide if I should bother with ordering the Vividstorm. 

If this experiment fails, I might also go with NX5/7.


----------



## avsenthusiast

justbenice said:


> I don't know because the new 2012.0 firmware or my eye get used to the projector or the projector get better itself after the "burning time" but i feel it quite good for the last 2 days. I am now quite enjoy watching it everynight.


Interesting. I will for sure give my LSP9T ample testing and "burning in" time and not judge it based on initial impressions. Thanks for sharing this.


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> Interesting. I will for sure give my LSP9T ample testing and "burning in" time and not judge it based on initial impressions. Thanks for sharing this.


When do you plan to receive your unit?


----------



## justbenice

avsscientist said:


> Interesting. I will for sure give my LSP9T ample testing and "burning in" time and not judge it based on initial impressions. Thanks for sharing this.


There are alot of good laser, lamp projectors arround with less than 5000usd in price tags. But Samsung list their LSP9T as 5500$ (Amazon price). So they must have good reason for that price.


----------



## JereyWolf

Something for people here to keep in mind when adjusting settings by eye or trying to calibrate with instruments, the contrast setting on the projector can have some unintended effects above a setting of 41. See @Jue Liang post #727 for thorough calibration information.


----------



## RxJedi

So, I finally received my screen (absolute disaster, and couldn’t be more disappointed in Stewart Screens, but that is for a different post) but my LSP9t keeps turning off every 15 minutes no matter what…. All eco settings off, etc. any idea what could be causing it? 
Does it have a motion sensor on it? If so, could it being behind a large center channel be causing this? I can’t find any mention of a motion sensor, just an activity monitor that can be set to off of 4-8 hours…

seems kind of odd!


----------



## R8tedm3

justbenice said:


> I did change to Movie Maker mode and do some setting change to make the red are less too red but it still look unreal.
> By the way i can live with the red color unreal because i don't need real color in movies  But the black level is quite disapointed. After 10 days i still feel uncomfortable. I hope i will feel comfortable in next month. I can't ask for more in this projector because i came from the Samsung quantum TV series 9 with local dimming.


I think your issue with the black level could be because of the screen you're using? On my screen, black levels are very much comparable to my Samsung TVs upstairs. The colors can be very "laser-like" especially red color out of the box, but it can be toned down where it seems more natural, and not as annoying.

I've been using all high-end Samsung TVs since 2006, but with this projector, I could never go back to any of them anymore...unless Samsung comes out with an affordable 120" larger tv. But then again good luck getting a screen that size delivered to you in good shape, and imagine installing and moving...that would be a catastrophe I'd say. Also, I think if you were one of the first adopters of LSP9 it could be that it's not as good as the later models produced. I sold my first one, returned the 2nd one, and re-purchased it again last month. This newer unit (production shows May/2021) is day and night compared to my last ones. No speckle, whisper-quiet, no rainbow effect, no flickering, and basically as perfect as it gets. Whoever comes over thinks I have giant tv on the wall that's mounted.

I use it as a desktop screen for games/movies, and I'm so happy with what I have. It's installed in my basement, with no windows, but the walls and ceiling are white. Which I hope to rectify in the future which will make the picture even better!

I'll attach a few pics for you which were taken with Note 20 ultra. Nothing fancy just point/shoot and tell me if your black levels are comparable to what you see on your screen? Btw, in real life, black levels are even darker on my screen, but the colors are blowing up a lot since the phone can't do pictures any justice...so please don't judge that aspect.

EDIT: no sure why the pictures got duplicated? Apologies!


----------



## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> When do you plan to receive your unit?


 It’s stuck in “shipping from warehouse” status for more than a week, hopefully it’s any day now


----------



## JereyWolf

R8tedm3 said:


> I think your issue with the black level could be because of the screen you're using? On my screen, black levels are very much comparable to my Samsung TVs upstairs. The colors can be very "laser-like" especially red color out of the box, but it can be toned down where it seems more natural, and not as annoying.
> 
> I've been using all high-end Samsung TVs since 2006, but with this projector, I could never go back to any of them anymore...unless Samsung comes out with an affordable 120" larger tv. But then again good luck getting a screen that size delivered to you in good shape, and imagine installing and moving...that would be a catastrophe I'd say. Also, I think if you were one of the first adopters of LSP9 it could be that it's not as good as the later models produced. I sold my first one, returned the 2nd one, and re-purchased it again last month. This newer unit (production shows May/2021) is day and night compared to my last ones. No speckle, whisper-quiet, no rainbow effect, no flickering, and basically as perfect as it gets. Whoever comes over thinks I have giant tv on the wall that's mounted.


What screen are you using?
Are you saying that your last unit had higher noise and showed speckle but this unit doesn't doesn't have either of those problems?


----------



## R8tedm3

JereyWolf said:


> What screen are you using?
> Are you saying that your last unit had higher noise and showed speckle but this unit doesn't doesn't have either of those problems?


I'm using Grandview Dynamique 120" and yes this latest unit is awesome! First one was the worst. Second unit was better with noise and speckle. But had some rare flashing screen issues. This one is the best. Whisper-quiet. My desktop is all liquid cooled and i hear that over the LSP9. Now if i select normal color that's the only time i can hear it. But other than that no speckle, no rainbow effect, no noise. No imperfections of any kind. I am more than satisfied, and i'm a real picky person when it comes to this kind of a stuff. I had tried Hisense L5 and still have it in other room, LG HU85LA and Epson LS500 

Sammy takes the crown in my opinion. I would just say check out Best Buy. They can check on the boxes what the production date is. Stay away from anything made last year. And if you can get something made in May, June of this year.


----------



## justbenice

R8tedm3 said:


> I think your issue with the black level could be because of the screen you're using? On my screen, black levels are very much comparable to my Samsung TVs upstairs. The colors can be very "laser-like" especially red color out of the box, but it can be toned down where it seems more natural, and not as annoying.
> 
> I've been using all high-end Samsung TVs since 2006, but with this projector, I could never go back to any of them anymore...unless Samsung comes out with an affordable 120" larger tv. But then again good luck getting a screen that size delivered to you in good shape, and imagine installing and moving...that would be a catastrophe I'd say. Also, I think if you were one of the first adopters of LSP9 it could be that it's not as good as the later models produced. I sold my first one, returned the 2nd one, and re-purchased it again last month. This newer unit (production shows May/2021) is day and night compared to my last ones. No speckle, whisper-quiet, no rainbow effect, no flickering, and basically as perfect as it gets. Whoever comes over thinks I have giant tv on the wall that's mounted.
> 
> I use it as a desktop screen for games/movies, and I'm so happy with what I have. It's installed in my basement, with no windows, but the walls and ceiling are white. Which I hope to rectify in the future which will make the picture even better!
> 
> I'll attach a few pics for you which were taken with Note 20 ultra. Nothing fancy just point/shoot and tell me if your black levels are comparable to what you see on your screen? Btw, in real life, black levels are even darker on my screen, but the colors are blowing up a lot since the phone can't do pictures any justice...so please don't judge that aspect.
> 
> EDIT: no sure why the pictures got duplicated? Apologies!


Yes, it is black and not grey. But the detail in dark areas are not good.
By the way. This projector is ok, not bad at all for that price.
My screen is Vividstorm S Pro ALR UST.


----------



## justbenice

R8tedm3 said:


> I'm using Grandview Dynamique 120" and yes this latest unit is awesome! First one was the worst. Second unit was better with noise and speckle. But had some rare flashing screen issues. This one is the best. Whisper-quiet. My desktop is all liquid cooled and i hear that over the LSP9. Now if i select normal color that's the only time i can hear it. But other than that no speckle, no rainbow effect, no noise. No imperfections of any kind. I am more than satisfied, and i'm a real picky person when it comes to this kind of a stuff. I had tried Hisense L5 and still have it in other room, LG HU85LA and Epson LS500
> 
> Sammy takes the crown in my opinion. I would just say check out Best Buy. They can check on the boxes what the production date is. Stay away from anything made last year. And if you can get something made in May, June of this year.


How can i check the production date?


----------



## R8tedm3

justbenice said:


> How can i check the production date?


It's on the box, also should be on the SN # sticker on the back of the unit itself.


----------



## justbenice

R8tedm3 said:


> It's on the box, also should be on the SN # sticker on the back of the unit itself.


Thanks! Mine is R1 so it Jan 2021.


----------



## avsenthusiast

R8tedm3 said:


> Sammy takes the crown in my opinion. I would just say check out Best Buy. They can check on the boxes what the production date is. Stay away from anything made last year. And if you can get something made in May, June of this year.


I ordered last week so I am hoping it's one of these newer production units. Thanks for posting this, I will report back as soon as I receive it.


----------



## avsenthusiast

R8tedm3 said:


> I'm using Grandview Dynamique 120" and yes this latest unit is awesome!


Unfortunately it seems Grandview "Dynamique" doesn't come in motorized version, and due to my curve wall it's impossible to mount it. Does the frame have top mounting holes, maybe I can hang it.


----------



## R8tedm3

avsscientist said:


> Unfortunately it seems Grandview "Dynamique" doesn't come in motorized version, and due to my curve wall it's impossible to mount it. Does the frame have top mounting holes, maybe I can hang it.


I see. Yeah it does come with top two mounting holes. And once the screen is mounted it's so flush. Even more flush than the $300+ flush mount i got for my 85" 8k Sammy. I'll take some pic's when i get home later but I mounted it myself with my lady and it was super easy. 

Don't worry too much about the wall. Mine wasn't perfect either but once mounted it took me about 25-30 min to dial the projector in. And my left side wall was so bad and curvy.


----------



## Richard Nixon

I've been wanting to set up a proper theater for a long time and decided to jump in deep with an lsp9t when it went on sale during prime day. I was able to snag an employee discount to lower the price to $4420 plus an amex offer for $200 back and $85 from a cashback site. I couldn't resist.

Unfortunately, the Grandview screen I ordered won't ship for 4 weeks so I'm stuck testing it on my wall. It arrived today (mfr date 3/21) and I've set it up in a temp location and updated the firmware to the latest version. So far I'm impressed, but my wall really distorts the colors. I have a salamander cabinet arriving Friday to keep the projected secure and out of sight. Here's hoping for an early screen shipment.

How do I go about calibrating the color for a ust projector? Filmmaker mode looks pretty good but I feel like it could use some tweaks.


----------



## R8tedm3

avsscientist said:


> Unfortunately it seems Grandview "Dynamique" doesn't come in motorized version, and due to my curve wall it's impossible to mount it. Does the frame have top mounting holes, maybe I can hang it.


Here are the pic's with screen mounted to the wall. And this is from the left side where my wall is very curvy. I thought it would never look decent mounted. But it came out looking great. Very flush with barely any space between the screen and wall. 

2 pic's are attached, one with and without the flash.


----------



## dfx59

justbenice said:


> Thanks! Mine is R1 so it Jan 2021.


How did you get that information ? Mine was CA01. I wish I can know when it was manufactured.
Btw, resseler strongly suggested (to avoid refunding) i try another one, should arrive here this week.


----------



## justbenice

dfx59 said:


> How did you get that information ? Mine was CA01. I wish I can know when it was manufactured.
> Btw, resseler strongly suggested (to avoid refunding) i try another one, should arrive here this week.





dfx59 said:


> How did you get that information ? Mine was CA01. I wish I can know when it was manufactured.
> Btw, resseler strongly suggested (to avoid refunding) i try another one, should arrive here this week.


Mine is CA01 too. I believe we all have CA01 version.
For manufactured date you can see this article : How to Find Samsung TV Model Number and Decode It
And decode the serial number of you projector.


----------



## avsenthusiast

justbenice said:


> For manufactured date you can see this article : How to Find Samsung TV Model Number and Decode It


this is a great article, thanks! @justbenice

but I can’t in the article mentioning codes for months so how do we find out production month?

_Update:_ actually the article links to another article that mentions how to decode month using SN


----------



## avsenthusiast

Hi everyone, I randomly got my LSP9T at 8pm last night, so after dinner and an exhausting day of work, I didn't have much time to examine speckle, CA or confirm all other issues.

Mine has 2012 firmware with date code R2 -- very sad it's not one of those newer production units.

Surprisingly, it took me only minutes to align perfectly all 4 edges on my tab-tensioned motorized screen -- I seem to have read some owners having issues with corners but thank goodness this wasn't an issue.

The big problem was actually spending half an hour trying to figure out why my receiver wouldn't send signals to the eARC port on the projector, after swapping multiple HDMI cables, losing my mind, then I realized maybe Samsung wants people to enable it, which I was right, the feature was hidden deep in menu -- so annoying!!!

My girlfriend was starting to get impatient and annoyed too because she really wanted to watch a show so I had to stop tinkering quickly and had only 2 mins to quickly pick some generic settings that look acceptable to me, so I ended up with movie mode, warm 1, judder to 2, contrast, color all at default.

Everything surprisingly looked acceptable to me, aside from random flashes of RBE (maybe once every 20 mins?) which was a bit distracting because that's when I realize I am not watching on my 19th-centruy technology (bulb-based) Sony front-projector.

Wow, this thing is bright! I dare to say my eyes hurt a couple of times especially during those transitions from super dark to white light blasting scenes, Samsung nailed it on lumens, but my screen is not UST, not sure if this "dark cinema effect" can still be seen after switching to UST screen.

The only "issue" that I had within only a couple of hours was the blurriness of ALL TEXTS on the GUI/Menu of my Nvidia Shield Pro. What the heck is wrong with my Shield and this projector combination? I feel dizzy when looking at the main menu / home page of Shield, so I immediately tried to adjust Focus which made me even more dizzy! All those white lines in the middle and in the corners, all I could are non-converging colors along edges of white lines. I am pretty sure there is some kind of laser convergence interacting with the lens issue going on here -- I couldn't stand looking at it for too long so I just quickly picked an adjustment that I thought was the "sharpest". This brought up so many questions:

1. why is this focus adjustment method not talked more about?

2. what exactly where those non-converging color lines I was seeing?

3. how to not get eye strain when focusing?

4. could focus be the issue of the "blurry" texts on Shield?

5. if focus was off, why did shows look so good?

PS. some other issues:
• on some movies that I tried on Shield, it switched to a weird green/purple cast --- I am sure there is something wrong with the color space somewhere.
• both Netflix and Prime wouldn't switch to 4k on Shield and had to rely on the Shield's 4K AI-Enhanced upscaling -- maybe there are answers on this forum already too, have to dig deeper today to find out

PPS. Most importantly, it passed the "girlfriend test" she didn't have anything negative to say, which is a good thing, the only comments she made was, why is it so bright? which was also a good thing


----------



## justbenice

@avsscientist
Congrat! As i said this projector is not bad at all 
And how can you...turn off focus?? I don't see the option to turn off focus. I just tried to adjust it to make it have balance sharp the 2 side then leave it.
The "blurry" text i think because you use advance point adjustment too much. I think we should set it defaut and change the position of the projector to makeup the best fit. After fiting the projector and the sceen then using advance point adjustment to fix what can't be fit by changing projector position and angle.









By the way, i prefer to watch with some dim light in my seat , my head feel dizzy when watch movie with total dark room especial in dark sence movies. You should try it.


----------



## justbenice

And using your phone to take the picture when adjust focus to have balance sharp between 2 side of the sceen.


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> The only "issue" that I had within only a couple of hours was the blurriness of ALL TEXTS on the GUI/Menu of my Nvidia Shield Pro. What the heck is wrong with my Shield and this projector combination? I feel dizzy when looking at the main menu / home page of Shield, so I immediately tried to adjust Focus which made me even more dizzy! All those white lines in the middle and in the corners, all I could are non-converging colors along edges of white lines. I am pretty sure there is some kind of laser convergence interacting with the lens issue going on here -- I couldn't stand looking at it for too long so I just quickly picked an adjustment that I thought was the "sharpest". This brought up so many questions:
> 
> 1. why is this focus adjustment method not talked more about?
> 
> 2. what exactly where those non-converging color lines I was seeing?
> 
> 3. how to not get eye strain when focusing?
> 
> 4. could focus be the issue of the "blurry" texts on Shield?
> 
> 5. if focus was off, why did shows look so good?
> 
> PS. some other issues:
> • on some movies that I tried on Shield, it switched to a weird green/purple cast --- I am sure there is something wrong with the color space somewhere.
> • both Netflix and Prime wouldn't switch to 4k on Shield and had to rely on the Shield's 4K AI-Enhanced upscaling -- maybe there are answers on this forum already too, have to dig deeper today to find out


Do you have a focus issue with the text on the projector's GUI also?
For 4k HDR signals, Go to settings > general > external device manager > enable "input signal plus" 
I find that color space set to Auto produces the best looking result, most of the time.


----------



## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> Do you have a focus issue with the text on the projector's GUI also?
> For 4k HDR signals, Go to settings > general > external device manager > enable "input signal plus"
> I find that color space set to Auto produces the best looking result, most of the time.


The Projector's GUI is perfectly sharp, but for some reason, Shield Pro's GUI does not like this projector, rendering text elements blurry.

I am starting to suspect maybe there is something wrong with my Pioneer Receiver, or maybe it does not fully support all the fancy color spaces and protocols like HDR10, HDR10+ and Dolby Vision that Shield is capable of. 

I will try a direct connection to Shield tomorrow to see if the GUI improves.


----------



## MDesigns

avsscientist said:


> The Projector's GUI is perfectly sharp, but for some reason, Shield Pro's GUI does not like this projector, rendering text elements blurry.
> 
> I am starting to suspect maybe there is something wrong with my Pioneer Receiver, or maybe it does not fully support all the fancy color spaces and protocols like HDR10, HDR10+ and Dolby Vision that Shield is capable of.
> 
> I will try a direct connection to Shield tomorrow to see if the GUI improves.


Maybe the Shield GUI is only 1080p and that causes the sharpness issues. Maybe try the direct connection and if that doesn't help, try to take a closeup picture of how the "out of focus" parts looks.


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> The Projector's GUI is perfectly sharp, but for some reason, Shield Pro's GUI does not like this projector, rendering text elements blurry.
> 
> I am starting to suspect maybe there is something wrong with my Pioneer Receiver, or maybe it does not fully support all the fancy color spaces and protocols like HDR10, HDR10+ and Dolby Vision that Shield is capable of.
> 
> I will try a direct connection to Shield tomorrow to see if the GUI improves.


Just wanted to say that I'm also using a Shield Pro, but I have never seen the blurry interface issue.


----------



## avsenthusiast

MDesigns said:


> Maybe the Shield GUI is only 1080p and that causes the sharpness issues. Maybe try the direct connection and if that doesn't help, try to take a closeup picture of how the "out of focus" parts looks.


As I predicted, there is something wrong with my Pioneer AVR board, the main HDMI Out port with eARC is dead, and the second HDMI port does not support HDR10 and keeps jumping color space from one to another.

Thank goodness I checked properly so I can confirm my LSP9T doesn’t have any focusing issues.

This makes me wonder though, for owners of LSP9T with picture quality issues, I wonder if everyone has thoroughly checked their AVRs to rule out this source of issues?


----------



## avsenthusiast

justbenice said:


> Anyone notice that this Projector have a very red color, that kind of red with no contrast when watching football? I know this projector have un real red color some time but i only notice it so red when watching football last night. I use vividstorm alr ust screen.


DCI-P3 is an expanded color space especially in the red region, so reds will be more vibrant and a lot of capture devices and video processing chains use a limited or different color space so when they are "mapped" to DCI-P3 the reds get wonky. I am not sure how this issue will resolve over time. 

Speaking of Vividstorm ALR UST, @justbenice I assume you have the floor rising S Pro? Since my projector has no noticeable speckle right now on a matte long-throw screen with 1.0 gain, I wonder if this Vividstorm screen will make the PQ worse by "adding or enhancing" the appearance of speckles.

How's your experience with it so far? Does it improve the contrast significantly during the day? How is viewing experience at night when room is darker?


----------



## dfx59

avsscientist said:


> ambiant
> Speaking of Vividstorm ALR UST, @justbenice I assume you have the floor rising S Pro? Since my projector has no noticeable speckle right now on a matte long-throw screen with 1.0 gain, I wonder if this Vividstorm screen will make the PQ worse by "adding or enhancing" the appearance of speckles.
> 
> How's your experience with it so far? Does it improve the contrast significantly during the day? How is viewing experience at night when room is darker?


It really depends on the (your) use case.

It's grey so it hads a bit of contrast but not a lot really, compared to the 40% loss of brithness (0.6).
The ambient light rejecting makes sense if you are watching during day time in a living room.

At night the ambient light rejecting benefit disappear (usually you are in the dark while watching a moovie) and thus it becomes counter productive to have such screen as lumens is key for HDR on large screens.

PS: Should received a new LSP9 next Monday (they are running late), the 1st one got a "convergence" issue confirmed. Looks like all LSP9 are not born equal....
Let's see if the new one is really better to my issues.


----------



## avsenthusiast

Larry J said:


> I also don't see any laser speckle either, but I use a white screen. Which based on comments all around for awhile I wasn't sure what to think using that with a UST. But after reading some reviews that tested some UST's with a studiotek100 & 130G3 I realized it wasn't a problem. I have the 130 G4 version and looks great to me. Never heard anyone that does an actual review say those screens weren't one of the best for, no sheen, no sparkle, perfect color, perfect uniformity, perfect viewing angles, better sharpness, HDR, 4k, less artifacts, etc.


@Larry J I also use a white matte screen on my LSP9T right now and haven't noticed any of the following either:
• uniformity
• viewing angel issue
• sheen
• sparkle
• sharpness
• HDR

Have you found an ALR UST screen that doesn't introduce any of the above issues?


----------



## avsenthusiast

dfx59 said:


> At night the ambient light rejecting benefit disappear (usually you are in the dark while watching a moovie) and thus it becomes counter productive to have such screen as lumens is key for HDR on large screens.


This is exactly what I am worry about, how much brightness will be lost with an ALR screen.

Last night, watching LSP9T on a normal 1.0 gain matte white screen, my girlfriend complained she got "blinded" a few times (because she was lying down at 6ft in front of screen). I really don't want this brightness to go away.

Right now the black levels are not an issue to me when watching content covering fullscreen 16:9 but I immediately notice lights on the ceiling and reflecting back down onto the room when content was 2:35 With black bars. When watching this type of content and in late afternoon before it gout completely dark, I wished I had the ALR screen to increase contrast, but at night I don’t miss the contrast in dark environment and don’t want to lose brightness.

I guess we can't really win on both fronts. It's a matter of choice and compromise.



dfx59 said:


> PS: Should received a new LSP9 next Monday (they are running late), the 1st one got a "convergence" issue confirmed. Looks like all LSP9 are not born equal....
> Let's see if the new one is really better to my issues.


Good to hear you haven't given up on the LSP9T yet. My R2 (February 2021) unit is flawless at this point (I will let it burn in a bit more first), no speckles and any noticeable issues so far, sure there is tiny bit of CA on edges of white texts but my Sony projector also had it, not to mention amount is only a pixel or two wide.

I am pretty sure there are better units out there with 0.5pixel wide CA or 0.1 pixel, but exchanging to a different unit with lower CA level may or guarantee "convergence free“ or “speckle free” so i probably shouldn’t play lottery.

Looking forward to hearing about your next unit.


----------



## Bigbobby12345

avsscientist said:


> Good to hear you haven't given up on the LSP9T yet. My R2 (February 2021) unit is flawless at this point (I will let it burn in a bit more first), no speckles and any noticeable issues so far, sure there is tiny bit of CA on edges of white texts but my Sony projector also had it, not to mention amount is only a pixel or two wide.
> 
> I am pretty sure there are better units out there with 0.5pixel wide CA or 0.1 pixel, but exchanging to a different unit with lower CA level may or guarantee "convergence free“ or “speckle free” so i probably shouldn’t play lottery.
> 
> Looking forward to hearing about your next unit.



Hi, I've just purchased this projector and have noticed on certain scenes a green light at the bottom of the screen, can anyone confirm if this is a known issue or if I have a setting wrong? Its projected onto an Elite screen Aeon CLR


----------



## dfx59

Bigbobby12345 said:


> Hi, I've just purchased this projector and have noticed on certain scenes a green light at the bottom of the screen, can anyone confirm if this is a known issue or if I have a setting wrong? Its projected onto an Elite screen Aeon CLR


I don't think this is setting related. With my 1st LSP9 I have noticed a "hot spot" on the middle bottom of the picture which, in my case, was not green just more luminous. 
From your 2 pictures, I have noticed the red outline on the man's neck. I had it with mine as well (sometimes green). It really depends on the scenes etc... 
It's one of the reason I returned this 1st LSP9. You should do it if you are still in the return window. 
Best regards,


----------



## JereyWolf

Bigbobby12345 said:


> Hi, I've just purchased this projector and have noticed on certain scenes a green light at the bottom of the screen, can anyone confirm if this is a known issue or if I have a setting wrong? Its projected onto an Elite screen Aeon CLR


Mine also does this. It's most noticeable on darker scenes with a dark color in the bottom center of the screen. I'm not sure if this is actually a technical issue, or if it's just a trade off of the UST projector and screen combo.


----------



## justbenice

avsscientist said:


> DCI-P3 is an expanded color space especially in the red region, so reds will be more vibrant and a lot of capture devices and video processing chains use a limited or different color space so when they are "mapped" to DCI-P3 the reds get wonky. I am not sure how this issue will resolve over time.
> 
> Speaking of Vividstorm ALR UST, @justbenice I assume you have the floor rising S Pro? Since my projector has no noticeable speckle right now on a matte long-throw screen with 1.0 gain, I wonder if this Vividstorm screen will make the PQ worse by "adding or enhancing" the appearance of speckles.
> 
> How's your experience with it so far? Does it improve the contrast significantly during the day? How is viewing experience at night when room is darker?


Yes. I am having a Vidvidstorm S Pro. This is my first projector and first screen too so i don't have any experience with the white screen.
For this Vividstorm S Pro ALR UST screen i feel ok with it. It have contrast, color is good, the brighness is good too, sometime i even feel it too brigh and want to decrease the brighness (but not possible) .
I can watch movies in dim light condition but daylight watching is total a joke, the screen wash out alot.
The only problem i don't like is the 1000:1 contrast of the projector. It lost alot of detail in dark scence


----------



## avsenthusiast

dfx59 said:


> I don't think this is setting related. With my 1st LSP9 I have noticed a "hot spot" on the middle bottom of the picture which, in my case, was not green just more luminous.
> From your 2 pictures, I have noticed the red outline on the man's neck. I had it with mine as well (sometimes green). It really depends on the scenes etc...
> It's one of the reason I returned this 1st LSP9. You should do it if you are still in the return window.


I agree, this unit seems defective. My R2 (February 2021) unit that just arrived a few days does not have this issue. Hopefully it doesn't "develop" one!


----------



## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> Mine also does this. It's most noticeable on darker scenes with a dark color in the bottom center of the screen. I'm not sure if this is actually a technical issue, or if it's just a trade off of the UST projector and screen combo.


Hmm this doesn't sound good. You have the Vividstorm S Pro, right? I am not noticing it on mine, but then mine is white matte screen with 1.0 gain or it's a properly calibrated unit.


----------



## avsenthusiast

Does anyone think getting this Vividstorm PRO P Slimline ceiling mount ALR UST screen with "Sound Perforation" for my LSP9T is a mistake? 

First, cons: 
• people already notice artifacts with Vividstorm "normal" floor-rising ALR UST screen
• tiny 0.4mm sound perforation holes may introduce even more issues with laser

Pros:
• ceiling mount, no need to waste floor space 
• easily hide center channel behind the screen
• no need custom furniture for both projector and center channel speaker
• may be even possible to hide left and right channel behind screen if I upgrade to KEF slimline speakers


----------



## justbenice

Bigbobby12345 said:


> Hi, I've just purchased this projector and have noticed on certain scenes a green light at the bottom of the screen, can anyone confirm if this is a known issue or if I have a setting wrong? Its projected onto an Elite screen Aeon CLR


Wow. I believe this must be something wrong. I have that "hot spot" too because it where the laser throw out, so it had to brighter than another spot. But it acceptable and not that bad.








My screen is Vividstorm S Pro ALR UST.


----------



## dfx59

avsscientist said:


> Does anyone think getting this Vividstorm PRO P Slimline ceiling mount ALR UST screen with "Sound Perforation" for my LSP9T is a mistake?
> 
> First, cons:
> • people already notice artifacts with Vividstorm "normal" floor-rising ALR UST screen
> • tiny 0.4mm sound perforation holes may introduce even more issues with laser
> 
> Pros:
> • ceiling mount, no need to waste floor space
> • easily hide center channel behind the screen
> • no need custom furniture for both projector and center channel speaker
> • may be even possible to hide left and right channel behind screen if I upgrade to KEF slimline speakers


Avoid "accoustic screen" if possible, it may just impact sound quality and you would be loosing lot of brightness because of that (and you are already loosing 20-40% with an ULR screen). 
In the case of the LSP9 it may not be a big problem though as it comes with lot of lumens > 2000 post calibration. 
Nonetheless, with a s-pro (floor motorized screen) you should be able to place the center channel in front of the screen has it develops 60cm of pure black surface for that purpose and also so that the center of picture gets eyes alignment.


----------



## dfx59

justbenice said:


> Yes. I am having a Vidvidstorm S Pro. This is my first projector and first screen too so i don't have any experience with the white screen.
> For this Vividstorm S Pro ALR UST screen i feel ok with it. It have contrast, color is good, the brighness is good too, sometime i even feel it too brigh and want to decrease the brighness (but not possible) .
> I can watch movies in dim light condition but daylight watching is total a joke, the screen wash out alot.
> The only problem i don't like is the 1000:1 contrast of the projector. It lost alot of detail in dark scence


Yep, actually I don't think any projector (except pro ones > 10k lumens) can project anything good during daylight. 
My position is: result does not match the promise. 
There is no way to use that as a primary TV (at least compared to a OLED I use daily) and for movies there are better long throw projector for the same budget


----------



## JereyWolf

dfx59 said:


> Yep, actually I don't think any projector (except pro ones > 10k lumens) can project anything good during daylight.
> My position is: result does not match the promise.
> There is no way to use that as a primary TV (at least compared to a OLED I use daily) and for movies there are better long throw projector for the same budget


Of course this projector is not going to look like Oled.... especially in living room day time lighting. That's not really the point though. No reasonably priced oled that I know of can compete with image size from this projector. 
If you can completely control light in the room, I'm sure a standard throw projector would give better performance for the price.


----------



## justbenice

dfx59 said:


> Avoid "accoustic screen" if possible, it may just impact sound quality and you would be loosing lot of brightness because of that (and you are already loosing 20-40% with an ULR screen).
> In the case of the LSP9 it may not be a big problem though as it comes with lot of lumens > 2000 post calibration.
> Nonetheless, with a s-pro (floor motorized screen) you should be able to place the center channel in front of the screen has it develops 60cm of pure black surface for that purpose and also so that the center of picture gets eyes alignment.


Yep. I like the UST and that floor motorized screen because together make very easy to place in room. This is how i have it placement :


----------



## Mikenificent1

R8tedm3 said:


> I'm using Grandview Dynamique 120" and yes this latest unit is awesome! First one was the worst. Second unit was better with noise and speckle. But had some rare flashing screen issues. This one is the best. Whisper-quiet. My desktop is all liquid cooled and i hear that over the LSP9. Now if i select normal color that's the only time i can hear it. But other than that no speckle, no rainbow effect, no noise. No imperfections of any kind. I am more than satisfied, and i'm a real picky person when it comes to this kind of a stuff. I had tried Hisense L5 and still have it in other room, LG HU85LA and Epson LS500
> 
> Sammy takes the crown in my opinion. I would just say check out Best Buy. They can check on the boxes what the production date is. Stay away from anything made last year. And if you can get something made in May, June of this year.


Did you notice a difference in black level between the 1st gen and current gen LSP9T?


----------



## avsenthusiast

justbenice said:


> I have that "hot spot" too because it where the laser throw out, so it had to brighter than another spot. But it acceptable and not that bad.
> My screen is Vividstorm S Pro ALR UST.


I confirm this "hotspot" exists on my R2 unit too, I only noticed it when watching 2:35 content with black bars, but in full screen 16:9, the content is so bright that this hotspot is not noticeable.


----------



## avsenthusiast

justbenice said:


> Yes, it is black and not grey. But the detail in dark areas are not good.
> My screen is Vividstorm S Pro ALR UST.


For those of you who have the Vividstorm S PRO ALR UST with lack of details in dark areas, have you tried the "Shadow Detail" function on LSP9T? 

Does it improve anything or make the rest of the image worse?

I don't have an ALR screen right now to test, but planning to order the same Vividstorm ALR UST screen but in motorized ceiling drop-down version with Acoustic Transparency -- can't wait to place the center speaker right behind the screen!


----------



## R8tedm3

Mikenificent1 said:


> Did you notice a difference in black level between the 1st gen and current gen LSP9T?


On the first unit purchased last year black levels were more lighter. Almost looking grey at times. Second unit was much better, but once I updated the firmware I felt like the brightness increased and black levels decreased. Current unit is still on stock firmware, I'm never gonna update, as to me looks almost perfect. I am honestly so surprised that there is this much difference between the units out there.. almost like a tv panel lottery.


----------



## Mikenificent1

R8tedm3 said:


> On the first unit purchased last year black levels were more lighter. Almost looking grey at times. Second unit was much better, but once I updated the firmware I felt like the brightness increased and black levels decreased. Current unit is still on stock firmware, I'm never gonna update, as to me looks almost perfect. I am honestly so surprised that there is this much difference between the units out there.. almost like a tv panel lottery.


Now you just have to get a 4th unit to confirm if it’s a generational thing or a unit variance lol. You should see if you can download and store your current firmware version so you could always revert back if the firmware gets updated.


----------



## dfx59

R8tedm3 said:


> On the first unit purchased last year black levels were more lighter. Almost looking grey at times. Second unit was much better, but once I updated the firmware I felt like the brightness increased and black levels decreased. Current unit is still on stock firmware, I'm never gonna update, as to me looks almost perfect. I am honestly so surprised that there is this much difference between the units out there.. almost like a tv panel lottery.


Yes it's lottery and actually I would say poor optic quality with kind of absence of quality control.....
The new one I received today also got the sperckels with the s-pro I am using in the room with controlled lightning. 
Really annoying / distracting to watch movies in such conditions (coming from a regular tri pannel long throw projector).
That unit is also CA01 (so potentially same hard revision) as the previous one but surprisingly, it refuses to upgrade to fw 2012 and only offers upgrading to fw 1470 out of the box.... 
The hotspot with cinemascope content is obvious (did not notice it with the 1st one). I can also see more RBE with some movies, was less distracting with previous one. 
I will return it. I am done with UST for a long time.


----------



## avsenthusiast

dfx59 said:


> Yes it's lottery and actually I would say poor optic quality with kind of absence of quality control.....
> The new one I received today also got the sperckels with the s-pro I am using in the room with controlled lightning.
> Really annoying / distracting to watch movies in such conditions (coming from a regular tri pannel long throw projector).
> That unit is also CA01 (so potentially same hard revision) as the previous one but surprisingly, it refuses to upgrade to fw 2012 and only offers upgrading to fw 1470 out of the box....
> The hotspot with cinemascope content is obvious (did not notice it with the 1st one). I can also see more RBE with some movies, was less distracting with previous one.
> I will return it. I am done with UST for a long time.


@dfx59 so sorry to hear this bad experience, I really wonder why some units cannot upgrade to 2012, maybe it's a hardware limitation issue? 

On 2012, I don't see the "speckles" or pattern unless I put my face like 6" in front of the screen, and overall have been quite impressed. 

May I ask when noticing RBE, were you running content at 60p or at 23/24p? I am still testing to see if toggling between both makes a difference.


----------



## dfx59

avsscientist said:


> @dfx59 so sorry to hear this bad experience, I really wonder why some units cannot upgrade to 2012, maybe it's a hardware limitation issue?
> 
> On 2012, I don't see the "speckles" or pattern unless I put my face like 6" in front of the screen, and overall have been quite impressed.
> 
> May I ask when noticing RBE, were you running content at 60p or at 23/24p? I am still testing to see if toggling between both makes a difference.


Star Wars episode 3 was awful regards to RBE in HDR / 24fps from disney+
We then watch another movie in 24fps from Netflix did not see any RBE....

The speckles are really visible with the s-pro (up to the point to give me headhackes, hurting my eyes) I've got way less troubles with a regular white screen.
As such, if the projector sits in living room with white walls and ambiant light that may make it. You might see less of my issues.

If you are "serious" about watching movies (not low quality broadcasting) in a "dedicated room" a UST ALR screen might be counter productive.
The lack of control on the laser power may also be an issue as this thing (lsp9) was somewhat illuminating the 25m2 room (dedicated but white walls and celling) even with that technical screen 0.6 gain.

I don't think my issues are fw related. It's more that the product is what it is. Nice to watch TV at 120", soso (at best) for movies (my primary use case).
I had big expectations with UHD/HDR content (I own 150 UHD disks) thanks to 2800 lumens (marketing) and the full Rec2020 coverage thanks to RGB lasers.
Needless to say I am disappointed and that I have seen way better pictures with other projectors.


----------



## avsenthusiast

dfx59 said:


> I had big expectations with UHD/HDR content (I own 150 UHD disks) thanks to 2800 lumens (marketing) and the full Rec2020 coverage thanks to RGB lasers.
> Needless to say I am disappointed and that I have seen way better pictures with other projectors.


Me too. 

Staying up late tonight to do some testing with Loki and random shows in 4K. Sad to say, it’s been a very frustrating experience with LSP9T. Comparing it side-by-side to my 1080p Sony 45ES with its amazing “Reality Creation” engine tuned on, the 1080p image from the Sony is superior almost in every way in my dark room in terms of perceived sharpness, shadow details, contrast and motion.

The only thing that the Sony loses on is brightness. How’s this even possible?

Tomorrow I am going to dive into the settings and see if I can match the LSP9T to my “lowly“ 45ES whcih is ancient 1080p technology from like 5 years ago.

Do I need to crank LSP9T sharpness to max? Contrast too to max? Test various judder settings? Turn on light output to highest?hopefully some of these will improve the LSP9T stock image.

i am a bit confused as to what to do right now because the next level up in laser UST PJ is the Sony VPLVZ1000ES which costs $19,999 CAD despite it‘s off $20,000 CAD this week on sale. Too expensive and it’s also ancient 2017 tech but it does 3D and it probably doesn’t have any the LSP9T issues like RBE, contrast, speckle etc but it’s build, noise etc are not up to 2021 standards.

More testing tomorrow. Hopefully will miraculously find some settings that will rescue the LSP9T


----------



## dfx59

avsscientist said:


> Me too.
> 
> Staying up late tonight to do some testing with Loki and random shows in 4K. Sad to say, it’s been a very frustrating experience with LSP9T. Comparing it side-by-side to my 1080p Sony 45ES with its amazing “Reality Creation” engine tuned on, the 1080p image from the Sony is superior almost in every way in my dark room in terms of perceived sharpness, shadow details, contrast and motion.
> 
> The only thing that the Sony loses on is brightness. How’s this even possible?
> 
> Tomorrow I am going to dive into the settings and see if I can match the LSP9T to my “lowly“ 45ES whcih is ancient 1080p technology from like 5 years ago.
> 
> Do I need to crank LSP9T sharpness to max? Contrast too to max? Test various judder settings? Turn on light output to highest?hopefully some of these will improve the LSP9T stock image.
> 
> i am a bit confused as to what to do right now because the next level up in laser UST PJ is the Sony VPLVZ1000ES which costs $19,999 CAD despite it‘s off $20,000 CAD this week on sale. Too expensive and it’s also ancient 2017 tech but it does 3D and it probably doesn’t have any the LSP9T issues like RBE, contrast, speckle etc but it’s build, noise etc are not up to 2021 standards.
> 
> More testing tomorrow. Hopefully will miraculously find some settings that will rescue the LSP9T


If you want cinema like pictures; my conclusion is just to forget about UST....
I owned a VZ1000 (which now retails for 9k, MSRP is 11k in France), Sony does NOT sell a lot of these because it's tricky to implement in the end and better picture can be achieved with a regular projector for less... It also has lot of defects (the one I have is defective after 4y / 2000 hours and said unrepairable/too expensive by Sony....) so I wouldn't bother in the future; if only I knew....

You would have a better result with a long throw for the same budget or maybe even less and then save for a lumagen or madvr PC/Envy.
DTM is crucial when it comes to HDR and by the way, the LSP9T was after a Lumagen radiance pro here.

Last and regarding the S-Pro, after days of unproductive exchanges (where they were saying their screen is best on the market, samsung advertise it with it, blablabla) here are their latest statement:

"Thank you for your reply!

Yes, we feel so sorry for this.
And we just Samsung LSP9T and our screen.
It really doesn't work as well as other projectors.
Since we also used Changhong V8S and Hisense, Xiaomi, Epson, BenQ, and another projector to do the test.
Hisense and Changhong are the best.
Is it possible to test with another brand of a laser UST projector?
S pro is the best for a laser UST projector unless Samsung LSP9T."

Well... thank you for the moment


----------



## ApeEx

HDTVTest review is up


----------



## R8tedm3

Vincent from HDTVTest released a new video review!






ApeEx beats me by a second LOL.


----------



## avsenthusiast

dfx59 said:


> If you want cinema like pictures; my conclusion is just to forget about UST....
> I owned a VZ1000 (which now retails for 9k, MSRP is 11k in France),


Since you owned both Sony VZ1000 and LSP9T, how do you judge the sharpness between the two? Do you use "Reality Creation"? A tiny amount of it is like Photoshop's permanent Unsharp Mask without the noise, it's pretty incredible but I am not sure cranking Samsung's "Sharpness" to 20 max achieves even the same effect.



dfx59 said:


> You would have a better result with a long throw for the same budget or maybe even less and then save for a lumagen or madvr PC/Envy. DTM is crucial when it comes to HDR and by the way, the LSP9T was after a Lumagen radiance pro here.


I totally agree that long-throw has better IQ but the problem with long-throw is, my living room is not long enough! 



dfx59 said:


> Last and regarding the S-Pro, after days of unproductive exchanges (where they were saying their screen is best on the market, samsung advertise it with it, blablabla) here are their latest statement:


I long suspected Vividstorm S-Pro may not be best suited for LSP9T, and now it is confirmed by Vividstorm themselves? 

Other owners who have Grandview Dynamique seem to report no obvious speckle, so I would have bought the Grandview Dynamique by now if they offer a motorized version. 

Perhaps waiting and finding a good matching screen optimized for LSP9T will save the day? eg. Grandview Dynamique?


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> Since you owned both Sony VZ1000 and LSP9T, how do you judge the sharpness between the two? Do you use "Reality Creation"? A tiny amount of it is like Photoshop's permanent Unsharp Mask without the noise, it's pretty incredible but I am not sure cranking Samsung's "Sharpness" to 20 max achieves even the same effect.
> 
> 
> I totally agree that long-throw has better IQ but the problem with long-throw is, my living room is not long enough!
> 
> 
> I long suspected Vividstorm S-Pro may not be best suited for LSP9T, and now it is confirmed by Vividstorm themselves?
> 
> Other owners who have Grandview Dynamique seem to report no obvious speckle, so I would have bought the Grandview Dynamique by now if they offer a motorized version.
> 
> Perhaps waiting and finding a good matching screen optimized for LSP9T will save the day? eg. Grandview Dynamique?


I personally keep sharpness set to 5 or less for my non-game mode picture settings. 

I have the Grandview Dynamique and can see rainbow speckle up very close and a shimmering effect from my seat. But, like I've said before I can see it on every surface I've tested not just the ALR/UST screen.

The Grandview Dynamique screen has a very nice picture quality, especially in ambient light, in my opinion....but it's hard for me to recommend Grandview based on my experience with their customer support...and I know that I'm not the only person who has received poor customer support from them.


----------



## King Rhoton

This thread is a very interesting read--thanks for all the content and pictures!
I'm contemplating an LSP9T purchase, but I was hoping to get some feedback from current owners about a question that I've not seen addressed here:
Lots of people are talking about image quality at the larger sizes than the max listed in the documentation (130"), but can anyone talk about the IQ at 90"? I know this is in the LSP7T's supported range, but the Throw Ratio on that model is much worse than the LSP9T's, and I have a pretty constrained space. Is 90" a non-starter for the LSP9T?

Thanks!


----------



## JereyWolf

King Rhoton said:


> This thread is a very interesting read--thanks for all the content and pictures!
> I'm contemplating an LSP9T purchase, but I was hoping to get some feedback from current owners about a question that I've not seen addressed here:
> Lots of people are talking about image quality at the larger sizes than the max listed in the documentation (130"), but can anyone talk about the IQ at 90"? I know this is in the LSP7T's supported range, but the Throw Ratio on that model is much worse than the LSP9T's, and I have a pretty constrained space. Is 90" a non-starter for the LSP9T?
> 
> Thanks!


This is not feedback about this projector at 90", but honestly I feel like if you are in the market for a near 90" image...I would just go with the best 85" TV you can find and I'm sure you'll get better price/performance.


----------



## dfx59

avsscientist said:


> Since you owned both Sony VZ1000 and LSP9T, how do you judge the sharpness between the two? Do you use "Reality Creation"? A tiny amount of it is like Photoshop's permanent Unsharp Mask without the noise, it's pretty incredible but I am not sure cranking Samsung's "Sharpness" to 20 max achieves even the same effect.
> 
> 
> I totally agree that long-throw has better IQ but the problem with long-throw is, my living room is not long enough!
> 
> 
> I long suspected Vividstorm S-Pro may not be best suited for LSP9T, and now it is confirmed by Vividstorm themselves?
> 
> Other owners who have Grandview Dynamique seem to report no obvious speckle, so I would have bought the Grandview Dynamique by now if they offer a motorized version.
> 
> Perhaps waiting and finding a good matching screen optimized for LSP9T will save the day? eg. Grandview Dynamique?


In regards to sharpness, DLP is king. Nonetheless while the 1st unit was sharp with sharpness at 0, the 2nd one is not and I had to put sharpness at 10 to get the same result. 
The Sony VZ1000 is not that sharp but more natural. I don't use reality creation so cannot comment here (did not notice a significant difference last time I tried).

You need about 4m to shoot a 120" picture with a JVC N5/7 (ref: JVC France) and you can go bigger/wider. 
Given the "low" lens quality of the LSP9 I doubt you can get a decent picture above that. There are also few (if any) bigger ALR/UST screen (there should be reasons for that ...) 
There are projectors out there short throw 

Next, indeed vividstorm now confirms that to me but they are the only motorized screen manufacturer (others mostly rebadged them) and getting back to the issue, it's not really that projection screen fault. As others have seen, there are speckles / grain etc.... with a LSP9 on other surfaces (I can see it if I pay attention with the 2nd reference screen I own: white surface gain 1.0), it's just that it becomes more visible/obvious potentially due to the screen materiel of the UST/ALR. I have not seen speckels with the LSP7 or VZ1000 with the vividstorm s-pro.


----------



## avsenthusiast

dfx59 said:


> The Sony VZ1000 is not that sharp but more natural.


I totally agree about Sony's "natural" I don't know how to describe it, the images just have an "organic" feel to it, no slight bit of judder or unnatural colors. 



dfx59 said:


> You need about 4m to shoot a 120" picture with a JVC N5/7 (ref: JVC France) and you can go bigger/wider.


This is the problem, I don't even have 4m, wall to wall is only 3.5m or so, then projector depth itself will take away 1.5ft then I am left with only 9-10ft, which is not even enough to fill the 120" screen. 



dfx59 said:


> Next, indeed vividstorm now confirms that to me but they are the only motorized screen manufacturer (others mostly rebadged them) and getting back to the issue, it's not really that projection screen fault. As others have seen, there are speckles / grain etc.... with a LSP9 on other surfaces (I can see it if I pay attention with the 2nd reference screen I own: white surface gain 1.0), it's just that it becomes more visible/obvious potentially due to the screen materiel of the UST/ALR. I have not seen speckels with the LSP7 or VZ1000 with the vividstorm s-pro.


I have a white gain 1.0 reference screen too, and I can barely see any speckles so I know I have a good unit of LSP9T. But I am not satisfied with its blacks/contrast, so I am hoping an UST ALR screen will improve it. But it sounds like this is a gamble because the Vividstorm will definitely introduce speckle that I was not able to notice before. Is this correct?


----------



## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> I have the Grandview Dynamique and can see rainbow speckle up very close and a shimmering effect from my seat. But, like I've said before I can see it on every surface I've tested not just the ALR/UST screen.


Sorry if you have mentioned before, do you have a normal white 1.0 gain screen? When compared with ALR UST screen, how much additional speckle/shimmering effect are you seeing? 5%, 25%, 50% or more? 

I can't notice any speckles/shimmering unless I am within 6-10" of the screen on my normal white gain 1.0 screen right now, so I am wondering how much speckle will be introduced by going UST ALR from Vividstorm.


----------



## King Rhoton

JereyWolf said:


> I feel like if you are in the market for a near 90" image...I would just go with the best 85" TV you can find and I'm sure you'll get better price/performance.


I totally agree, but this setup is with a roll-up screen so that my wife can get access to cabinets behind it. I wouldn't want her (or me) to have to move an 85" screen periodically....


----------



## justbenice

avsscientist said:


> For those of you who have the Vividstorm S PRO ALR UST with lack of details in dark areas, have you tried the "Shadow Detail" function on LSP9T?
> 
> Does it improve anything or make the rest of the image worse?
> 
> I don't have an ALR screen right now to test, but planning to order the same Vividstorm ALR UST screen but in motorized ceiling drop-down version with Acoustic Transparency -- can't wait to place the center speaker right behind the screen!


If you increase "shadow detail" , the dark areas just brighter and you can see some more detail, but in exchange, the total picture quality get worse because it lost contrast. 
Acttualy, i quite like this projector and the screen. Maybe because this is my first projector so i don't have another one to compare. I still keep my Samsung 88inch KS9800 (with local dimming so it black lever, color , contrast are beast! ) but i prefer to watch everything in my LSP9T.
And i do hope may be someday Samsung will have a ...firmware to get this projector better. I watch some UHD HDR movies which is have great picture quality like Transfomer, The Great Gatsby and i very enjoy the picture quality of this LSP9T. So i think may be there are the way to make it better with all kind of other media stuff.


----------



## dfx59

avsscientist said:


> I totally agree about Sony's "natural" I don't know how to describe it, the images just have an "organic" feel to it, no slight bit of judder or unnatural colors.
> 
> 
> This is the problem, I don't even have 4m, wall to wall is only 3.5m or so, then projector depth itself will take away 1.5ft then I am left with only 9-10ft, which is not even enough to fill the 120" screen.
> 
> 
> I have a white gain 1.0 reference screen too, and I can barely see any speckles so I know I have a good unit of LSP9T. But I am not satisfied with its blacks/contrast, so I am hoping an UST ALR screen will improve it. But it sounds like this is a gamble because the Vividstorm will definitely introduce speckle that I was not able to notice before. Is this correct?


That's correct unfortunately... that was also my "bet" and what a waste of energy...
I choose an ALR for UST because my room is dedicated (no window) but has got white walls and ceiling _AND_ I wanted to leave some lights on for the kids and play with philips hue sync box + multiple ledstrips etc...
I sit at about 3.2m from the 120" vividstorm (about 2,65m wide) which is ok in terms of distance but those speckels with the vividstorm is killing me. My white screen (used with another long throw projector in the same room) does not exhibit such brilliance which makes the pictures ringing as I wrote before.
Nonetheless, please note those speckles are there due to samsung tri-laser but you need to concentrate to see them on the white one, on the grey (vividstorm) it's just seriously annoying, like if people were sweating or got too much makeup on their face.
If you love watching moves as I do, you will be disappointed. Especially if you are coming from a "real" projector.

I will try to get you a picture of the LSP9 with both those screens (vividstorm s-pro gain 0.6+ white gain 1.0) by tomorrow before I return that samsung so you can judge the difference.
Please note I am not really equipped to make accurate pictures of what's displayed so the picture will differ slightly from what an eye can see. 
What I can tell you is that you eventually get a bit more contrast (because of the grey surface) but nothing in comparison of the brightness you are loosing if you had to balance.
Still, actually the LSP9 might be too bright and hurts your eyes on a white screen with very clear content and unfortunately you have no way to "dimm" the laser power.... :/ 
Go for an ALR if you have NO OTHER OPTION but to chose a light rejection screen (very bright room/no dimming/potentially daylight through windows etc..).


----------



## avsenthusiast

dfx59 said:


> What I can tell you is that you eventually get a bit more contrast (because of the grey surface) but nothing in comparison of the brightness you are loosing if you had to balance.
> Still, actually the LSP9 might be too bright and hurts your eyes on a white screen with very clear content and unfortunately you have no way to "dimm" the laser power.... :/
> Go for an ALR if you have NO OTHER OPTION but to chose a light rejection screen (very bright room/no dimming/potentially daylight through windows etc..).


I guess the question is, how much quantifiable "contrast" or "blacks" are improved by using the Vividstorm ALR screen with 0.6 gain?

You are right, I don't want to lose the brightness, especially with HDR content, it's blindingly bright right now on my normal white gain 1.0 screen, which is a good thing.

But the downside is, in my white ceiling and white carpet room, this brightness is creating lots and lots of light reflections back onto the screen even in pitch dark conditions at night, lowering contrast, so that's why I am desperately looking for an ALR screen.

Do you guys know much about Elunevision? Is this a good motorized alternative to Vividstorm ALR? 120'' EluneVision Reference 8K Motorized Short Throw ALR Projection Screen - Eastporters Audio Video


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> Sorry if you have mentioned before, do you have a normal white 1.0 gain screen? When compared with ALR UST screen, how much additional speckle/shimmering effect are you seeing? 5%, 25%, 50% or more?
> 
> I can't notice any speckles/shimmering unless I am within 6-10" of the screen on my normal white gain 1.0 screen right now, so I am wondering how much speckle will be introduced by going UST ALR from Vividstorm.


I don't have another true projector screen...so everything I've "tested' with has been material I could find in my house. After reading your post, I decided to see what it would look like if I hung a light blocking curtain on my screen. The back of this curtain is a pure white, opaque, lightly textured surface. 
On the back of the white curtain surface, speckle is slightly harder to see when compared to my ALR screen. 
I decided to take some photos to attempt to show just the difference in contrast.
Please keep in mind, this set-up is not ideal. It's a curtain haphazardly clamped to my other screen's frame. The colors are also not accurate....but with my camera adjustments....this is as close as I could get to photographing what I'm seeing. The contrast difference is significant. I've also attached a few photos to show my living room lighting conditions.

The source here is SDR YouTube from Nvidia Shield.
For the Interstellar clip I decided to photograph it normally and then again after changing the projectors orientation setting to rear.


----------



## justbenice

The UST projector combine with a ALR screen is not bad at all. Especial for me, i need light in room.






(I don't know why the picture of this projector look pretty bad everytime i capture by phone)


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## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> After reading your post, I decided to see what it would look like if I hung a light blocking curtain on my screen. The back of this curtain is a pure white, opaque, lightly textured surface.
> On the back of the white curtain surface, speckle is slightly harder to see when compared to my ALR screen.
> I decided to take some photos to attempt to show just the difference in contrast.
> Please keep in mind, this set-up is not ideal. It's a curtain haphazardly clamped to my other screen's frame. The colors are also not accurate....but with my camera adjustments....this is as close as I could get to photographing what I'm seeing. The contrast difference is significant. I've also attached a few photos to show my living room lighting conditions.


@JereyWolf this is a fantastic set of photos! and very creative to use whatever around you to perform tests. Really shows there is a big improvement in terms of contrast. Based on the photos, I would say about 50% which like you said is "significant" but it's hard to judge without seeing in-person.

Now the most important question, what is your normal viewing distance? Mine is 10ft so I am really wondering at this distance are the speckles as distracting to you as to @dfx59?


----------



## avsenthusiast

justbenice said:


> (I don't know why the picture of this projector look pretty bad everytime i capture by phone)


because our phones make its own adjustments in terms of contrast, shadows that they think is "best" and they are not smart enough to know what good image quality on projectors means.


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> @JereyWolf this is a fantastic set of photos! and very creative to use whatever around you to perform tests. Really shows there is a big improvement in terms of contrast. Based on the photos, I would say about 50% which like you said is "significant" but it's hard to judge without seeing in-person.
> 
> Now the most important question, what is your normal viewing distance? Mine is 10ft so I am really wondering at this distance are the speckles as distracting to you as to @dfx59?


I sit 16 feet from a 120" screen. I can only see the rainbow speckle when I'm right next to the screen.
From my seat...on large patches of solid color I can notice a slight shimmer look....but most of the time it's not distracting at all.


----------



## dfx59

JereyWolf said:


> I don't have another true projector screen...so everything I've "tested' with has been material I could find in my house. After reading your post, I decided to see what it would look like if I hung a light blocking curtain on my screen. The back of this curtain is a pure white, opaque, lightly textured surface.
> On the back of the white curtain surface, speckle is slightly harder to see when compared to my ALR screen.
> I decided to take some photos to attempt to show just the difference in contrast.
> Please keep in mind, this set-up is not ideal. It's a curtain haphazardly clamped to my other screen's frame. The colors are also not accurate....but with my camera adjustments....this is as close as I could get to photographing what I'm seeing. The contrast difference is significant. I've also attached a few photos to show my living room lighting conditions.
> 
> The source here is SDR YouTube from Nvidia Shield.
> For the Interstellar clip I decided to photograph it normally and then again after changing the projectors orientation setting to rear.


Top white gain 1.0
Below vividstorm s-pro gain 0.6

Actually this is with the vz1000es, later with the LSP9 as promissed but the contrast gain is somewhat limited here. Obvisouly with some lightning result would be very different.
Source is either atv 2021 (netflix) then justice league uhd disk from oppo+lumagen DTM.
As you can see using a "standard" screen works but may have other issue as for a UST you really need a flat surface and my white screen is not tensed.

Note: Photos from a iphone 12 pro max in HEIC then exported into jpeg. All lights off. 
Note2: There is a slight difference of "zoom" as the white screen is behind the s-pro by 5-10cm which is huge a UST (distance to screen).

PS: An ALR screen with a gain of 0.8 would see less loss of brightness compared to my s-pro (40% loss) though I would say the gain in contrast would be more or less the same and still get that ALR feature and less troubles due to a less technical material (also may come cheaper).

Conclusion: my best advice, bring the lsp9 to a screen reseller or friend who might have a screen you would buy and see for yourself 
I really needed motorized so no real choice. If I would be in my living room and use that as a laser tv most likely, I would have bought a fixed frame ALR from DNP with some shading like qmotion to cover that big ugly grey surface 





















.


----------



## dfx59

R8tedm3 said:


> Vincent from HDTVTest released a new video review!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ApeEx beats me by a second LOL.


Good & honest review, nice to see he also noticed the speckles, judder with 24fps movies, color inaccuracy, chromatic aberration. Not sure he mentioned RBE.


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## dfx59

With the LSP9 filmmaker mode+BT2020, no dyn contrast or motion interpolation., gamma Bt.1886. 
Content from: Justice league Znyder cut & JW3 Parabellum source Oppo+LRP.

PS: Coulours are obviously wrong due to my camera sensor and to be fair it worth pointing out the top screen (white 1.0) is getting a bit of lights from the lsp9 reflected by its white aluminium shell. 








Still looking to improve contrast with a ALR (negative gain) ? ;-)


----------



## avsenthusiast

A couple of quick unrelated questions to screens:

1. Is there a Harmony shortcut to bring up “Settings” immediately? It’s so annoying that when I press the “menu” button it takes like 5-6 directional pad presses to go past some ad thing then source then settings then up then right a few times just to get to “Picture mode”. On my Sony, it’s literally one press of menu button then onto picture mode and expert settings immediately 

2. Is there a way to get LSP9T to show source type, color mode, resolution, frame rate etc I can’t find this in the menu. My AVR used to provide that but my Pioneer AVR is broken so I am using direct connection from Shield Pro to LSP9T right now and I can’t find a way to get Shield to being up these details either, very frustrating.only in Emby app then I see the detailed stats, but not in Netflix or Prime. Has anyone figured out?


----------



## avsenthusiast

dfx59 said:


> With the LSP9 filmmaker mode+BT2020, no dyn contrast or motion interpolation., gamma Bt.1886.
> Content from: Justice league Znyder cut & JW3 Parabellum source Oppo+LRP.
> PS: Coulours are obviously wrong due to my camera sensor and to be fair it worth pointing out the top screen (white 1.0) is getting a bit of lights from the lsp9 reflected by its white aluminium shell.


Great photos, @dfx59

The Vividstorm S-Pro half is not OLED or plasma, but at least it's decent. Right now, watching it on my white gain 1.0 screen is almost a sin  I think also you are seeing speckle because of the viewing distance of 3.2-3.5m just like me, so I won't be surprised if I will see that too after getting the S-Pro.

@JereyWolf is not bothered by the speckle because of his 16ft viewing distance which unfortunately I do not have.


----------



## avsenthusiast

Update: 
VIVIDSTORM just replied to my email, confirming that after they got an LSP9T in for testing yesterday, they also found the "speckle" issue that is not present on all other UST projectors they tested, ie. LG, Sony, VAVA, Optoma etc.

I emailed back asking if they will work with Samsung to develop a new screen model that works with RGB laser, I wonder what they will say?!


----------



## avsenthusiast

Vividstorn replied quickly and said they already contacted Samsung about this issue. But they did not answer my question if they will develop a new screen just for Samsung but instead ask me to try a different brand of UST projector.


----------



## justbenice

avsscientist said:


> Vividstorn replied quickly and said they already contacted Samsung about this issue. But they did not answer my question if they will develop a new screen just for Samsung but instead ask me to try a different brand of UST projector.


Ofcourse they will do nothing about it. Because they are not matufacturer of the screen materials, as i know all of the screen manufacturers are using materials form a Taiwan company.

And the "speckle" is a down side of 3 laser tech, with 3 lasers line that strong to make 2800lumens in short throw, there must be a "speckle" things.

By the way, seeing the this picture of mine, i wonder maybe the "speckle" happened because the white polished form the projector cover ? In this picture it show alot of light reject from the projector to the screen. Tonight when the room total dark i will try to cover the projector with some black cloth to see if the speckle dissapear or get betterr in movies dark scene.


----------



## justbenice

dfx59 said:


> With the LSP9 filmmaker mode+BT2020, no dyn contrast or motion interpolation., gamma Bt.1886.
> Content from: Justice league Znyder cut & JW3 Parabellum source Oppo+LRP.
> 
> PS: Coulours are obviously wrong due to my camera sensor and to be fair it worth pointing out the top screen (white 1.0) is getting a bit of lights from the lsp9 reflected by its white aluminium shell.
> 
> View attachment 3151848
> Still looking to improve contrast with a ALR (negative gain) ? ;-)
> 
> View attachment 3151839
> View attachment 3151840
> View attachment 3151842
> View attachment 3151843
> View attachment 3151844
> View attachment 3151845
> View attachment 3151846
> View attachment 3151847


Thank you for your hard work ! The color, contrast, black level look alot better in ALR screen !


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## justbenice

Using some black or dark cloth to cover the white polish case of the projector help to reduce the hot zone alot! It almost gone!









I think the hot zone in the screen is the light from the screen reflect to the projector white polish and get reject back to the screen to creat hot zone. I will find better dark cloth to have my LSP9T full cover.


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## avsenthusiast

justbenice said:


> Using some black or dark cloth to cover the white polish case of the projector help to reduce the hot zone alot! It almost gone!
> I think the hot zone in the screen is the light from the screen reflect to the projector white polish and get reject back to the screen to creat hot zone.


This is fantastic news. I will also test later when it gets dark.


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## dfx59

justbenice said:


> Using some black or dark cloth to cover the white polish case of the projector help to reduce the hot zone alot! It almost gone!
> View attachment 3152000
> 
> 
> I think the hot zone in the screen is the light from the screen reflect to the projector white polish and get reject back to the screen to creat hot zone. I will find better dark cloth to have my LSP9T full cover.


We shouldn't have to do it if the lens was better oriented or the chassis properly designed (non glossy/reflective surface). I don't remember my 1st unit to have it, with the 2nd one it's more present.


----------



## dfx59

justbenice said:


> Thank you for your hard work ! The color, contrast, black level look alot better in ALR screen !


I wouldn't say "a lot better" but yes, it's a bit better so this makes the result look better given the contrast of the LSP9.
On the other hand you are paying a high(er) price for that given the loss of lightning from the projector.



Test écran technique ALR Vividstorm Obsidian 0.8 : l’avis de Grégory – – Le Blog de PHC –


"Donc, pour résumer, l’écran Vividstorm entraîne un gain en contraste de presque 8% (7,6%) avec une perte de luminosité de 23% (22,7%)."
You get 8% more contrast for 23% loss of brightness with the ALR 0.8. With the s-pro 0.6 results will be a bit different but this gives a rough idea. 
On the other side the LSP9 does not lack lumens (even after calibration) so loosing more than 40% is not really an issue especially given you are somewhat limited to 120". 
With wider screens, that may become problematic. 

You are right, those speckles (visible on the entire screen depending on colour and contrast of the scenes) is a tri laser thing (other manufacturer were able to solve those issue long time ago. remember most cinema projector (pro models) are 3 or even 6 lasers projectors with DMD chips.... do you see speckles when you go to a cinema ?). 
Obviously, vivistorm cannot and won't do anything about that and the same behaviour should be visible with other screens as well unfortunately. 
Might be a bit more or less depending on the quality of the "metalic painting" but they won't disappear.


----------



## Buster Gonad

Anyone using an in-ceiling recessed projector screen with this projector (or the LSP7T)? Didn't know what I was getting into when I got the LSP7T, thought all screens were equal. How I was wrong...

Side note: I activated picture in picture by accident, but not sure how I did it and can't seem to find it again. Anyone got steps?!


----------



## Cleveland Plasma

R8tedm3 said:


> I think your issue with the black level could be because of the screen you're using? On my screen, black levels are very much comparable to my Samsung TVs upstairs. The colors can be very "laser-like" especially red color out of the box, but it can be toned down where it seems more natural, and not as annoying.
> 
> I've been using all high-end Samsung TVs since 2006, but with this projector, I could never go back to any of them anymore...unless Samsung comes out with an affordable 120" larger tv. But then again good luck getting a screen that size delivered to you in good shape, and imagine installing and moving...that would be a catastrophe I'd say. Also, I think if you were one of the first adopters of LSP9 it could be that it's not as good as the later models produced. I sold my first one, returned the 2nd one, and re-purchased it again last month. This newer unit (production shows May/2021) is day and night compared to my last ones. No speckle, whisper-quiet, no rainbow effect, no flickering, and basically as perfect as it gets. Whoever comes over thinks I have giant tv on the wall that's mounted.
> 
> I use it as a desktop screen for games/movies, and I'm so happy with what I have. It's installed in my basement, with no windows, but the walls and ceiling are white. Which I hope to rectify in the future which will make the picture even better!
> 
> I'll attach a few pics for you which were taken with Note 20 ultra. Nothing fancy just point/shoot and tell me if your black levels are comparable to what you see on your screen? Btw, in real life, black levels are even darker on my screen, but the colors are blowing up a lot since the phone can't do pictures any justice...so please don't judge that aspect.
> 
> EDIT: no sure why the pictures got duplicated? Apologies!
> 
> View attachment 3149536
> View attachment 3149539
> View attachment 3149543
> View attachment 3149544
> View attachment 3149545
> View attachment 3149535
> View attachment 3149536
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> View attachment 3149545
> View attachment 3149552
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> View attachment 3149543
> View attachment 3149544
> View attachment 3149545
> View attachment 3149552
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> View attachment 3149559


That does look really good


----------



## justbenice

dfx59 said:


> I wouldn't say "a lot better" but yes, it's a bit better so this makes the result look better given the contrast of the LSP9.
> On the other hand you are paying a high(er) price for that given the loss of lightning from the projector.
> 
> 
> 
> Test écran technique ALR Vividstorm Obsidian 0.8 : l’avis de Grégory – – Le Blog de PHC –
> 
> 
> "Donc, pour résumer, l’écran Vividstorm entraîne un gain en contraste de presque 8% (7,6%) avec une perte de luminosité de 23% (22,7%)."
> You get 8% more contrast for 23% loss of brightness with the ALR 0.8. With the s-pro 0.6 results will be a bit different but this gives a rough idea.
> On the other side the LSP9 does not lack lumens (even after calibration) so loosing more than 40% is not really an issue especially given you are somewhat limited to 120".
> With wider screens, that may become problematic.
> 
> You are right, those speckles (visible on the entire screen depending on colour and contrast of the scenes) is a tri laser thing (other manufacturer were able to solve those issue long time ago. remember most cinema projector (pro models) are 3 or even 6 lasers projectors with DMD chips.... do you see speckles when you go to a cinema ?).
> Obviously, vivistorm cannot and won't do anything about that and the same behaviour should be visible with other screens as well unfortunately.
> Might be a bit more or less depending on the quality of the "metalic painting" but they won't disappear.


For what i read here about the S Pro 0.6 gain :









The New Vividstorm S PRO Electric Tension UST ALR Floor Screen | Full Review


Vividstorm is one of the most promising and of course one of the most up-and-coming screen manufacturers in the world. It was founded in 2004 as a designer/manufacturer of high quality tubular motors and projection fibers in the beautiful city […]




www.projectorjunkies.com





_"The fiber has a gain of 0.6 but that doesn’t necessarily mean that a percentage of brightness will be lost as on classic screens.

The reason is that an UST projector because of the large angle it already loses a respectable amount of brightness anyway, so Vividstorm by driving all the light of the projection towards to the viewer even with gain 0.6 gives a brighter image than a classic white screen or a white wall.

So in theory 0.6 gain will reflect back only the 60% of the light, but in a white wall with an UST projector we loose more than 40% light already, so the actual picture looks brighter on the Vividstorm."_

That is the reason why i said i see the ALR 0.6 gain look "a lot better" in your comparison, the ALR S Pro don't look lost brightness because it have more black level. So the contrast even look better together with more black make the picture deeper "a lot" !


----------



## dfx59

justbenice said:


> For what i read here about the S Pro 0.6 gain :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The New Vividstorm S PRO Electric Tension UST ALR Floor Screen | Full Review
> 
> 
> Vividstorm is one of the most promising and of course one of the most up-and-coming screen manufacturers in the world. It was founded in 2004 as a designer/manufacturer of high quality tubular motors and projection fibers in the beautiful city […]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.projectorjunkies.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _"The fiber has a gain of 0.6 but that doesn’t necessarily mean that a percentage of brightness will be lost as on classic screens.
> 
> The reason is that an UST projector because of the large angle it already loses a respectable amount of brightness anyway, so Vividstorm by driving all the light of the projection towards to the viewer even with gain 0.6 gives a brighter image than a classic white screen or a white wall.
> 
> So in theory 0.6 gain will reflect back only the 60% of the light, but in a white wall with an UST projector we loose more than 40% light already, so the actual picture looks brighter on the Vividstorm."_
> 
> That is the reason why i said i see the ALR 0.6 gain look "a lot better" in your comparison, the ALR S Pro don't look lost brightness because it have more black level. So the contrast even look better together with more black make the picture deeper "a lot" !


With my white screen it is brighter no comparaison, the benefits in contrast is there but less obvious. 
So and even if I understand the logic, Greg measure that. 8% contrast gain vs 23% brightness loss. We can trust those measurements.


----------



## justbenice

dfx59 said:


> We shouldn't have to do it if the lens was better oriented or the chassis properly designed (non glossy/reflective surface). I don't remember my 1st unit to have it, with the 2nd one it's more present.


Yes. A silly design from Samsung! The UST projector alway place very close to the screen, and with white polish design it will reflect even a little amount of light direct to the black bar in movies mode of the screen.
I will buy some carbon fiber skin to cover the white polish and make it become black projector


----------



## justbenice

dfx59 said:


> With my white screen it is brighter no comparaison, the benefits in contrast is there but less obvious.
> So and even if I understand the logic, Greg measure that. 8% contrast gain vs 23% brightness loss. We can trust those measurements.


Yep. But Greg tested those Vividstorm screen in April 2020, in that time Vividstorm haven't had the "S Pro" products which is design special for UST projector.
The S Pro technology is diffirence alot with what Greg tested :

_Its surface consists of thousands of horizontal streaks with a gradient of about 60 degrees, so they direct the light they received at a wide angle from an ultra short throw projector direct vertically to the viewing position_.


----------



## dfx59

justbenice said:


> Yep. But Greg tested those Vividstorm screen in April 2020, in that time Vividstorm haven't had the "S Pro" products which is design special for UST projector.
> The S Pro technology is diffirence alot with what Greg tested :
> 
> _Its surface consists of thousands of horizontal streaks with a gradient of about 60 degrees, so they direct the light they received at a wide angle from an ultra short throw projector direct vertically to the viewing position_.


Actually he tested the s-pro late 2019 Test écran technique Vividstorm : l’avis de Grégory – – Le Blog de PHC –
I use the other link as he made the maths for me in the next review of the obsavian 0.8


----------



## dfx59

avsscientist said:


> A couple of quick unrelated questions to screens:
> 
> 1. Is there a Harmony shortcut to bring up “Settings” immediately? It’s so annoying that when I press the “menu” button it takes like 5-6 directional pad presses to go past some ad thing then source then settings then up then right a few times just to get to “Picture mode”. On my Sony, it’s literally one press of menu button then onto picture mode and expert settings immediately
> 
> 2. Is there a way to get LSP9T to show source type, color mode, resolution, frame rate etc I can’t find this in the menu. My AVR used to provide that but my Pioneer AVR is broken so I am using direct connection from Shield Pro to LSP9T right now and I can’t find a way to get Shield to being up these details either, very frustrating.only in Emby app then I see the detailed stats, but not in Netflix or Prime. Has anyone figured out?


Both can be solved with a hdfury vertex and you will also get the lldv trick


----------



## justbenice

dfx59 said:


> Actually he tested the s-pro late 2019 Test écran technique Vividstorm : l’avis de Grégory – – Le Blog de PHC –
> I use the other link as he made the maths for me in the next review of the obsavian 0.8


In the review of the Vividstorm Pro version special design for UST projectors, he said :

_"This screen is the best element to have been in my home theater for many years"_
And
_"We achieve a quality equivalent to the best white screens."_

About the brightness, i have no idea of what picture mode and picture setting he used . Because adjusting the projector picture setting bring alot of change to the brightness.


----------



## avsenthusiast

dfx59 said:


> Both can be solved with a hdfury vertex and you will also get the lldv trick


Hmm, I've always wanted to get the HDFury, a couple of quick questions:

1. Does it have OSD that can show up on the Samsung?

2. My Pioneer AVR is busted (eARC HDMI port not working and not passing DV and HDR), but I am still waiting for the new 2021 AVR models with Dirac Live to be released, in the meantime, does the HDFury replace the broken eARC port between my AVR and LSP9T?

ps. I have a feeling it's just a video processor, not audio processor.


----------



## avsenthusiast

dfx59 said:


> So and even if I understand the logic, Greg measure that. 8% contrast gain vs 23% brightness loss. We can trust those measurements.


I am a bit confused.

So on one hand this reviewer said it's brighter than normal white screen due to the design of the screen, but on the other hand, he measured 23% brightness loss.

I think both statements can be true in this scenario: IF the 23% brightness loss is not measured against white screen as baseline, but a direct measurement of what's reflecting off the Vividstorm.

By this logic, does this mean even the 40% brightness loss on the Vividstorm UST screen will still look just as bright as a normal gain 1.0 white screen because of the inherent brightness loss of 40% on the white screen to begin with.

Great, does this mean now I can put Vividstorm back on my list of consideration again? The speckle issue though seems to point to an inherent design issue that I am not sure firmware update can solve?


----------



## avsenthusiast

A quick poll, would you be annoyed / pissed / angered if Samsung comes out with LSP10T in September or within the next few months and says, "Sorry, we screwed up on the first version, but after reading all your comments on here, and receiving comments from screen manufacturers, we went back to the drawing board and redesigned our lasers so they won't have this issue anymore." 

I for sure will not be pleased because I just bought the LSP9T now (still within return window), just curious how everyone else would feel.


----------



## dfx59

avsscientist said:


> Hmm, I've always wanted to get the HDFury, a couple of quick questions:
> 
> 1. Does it have OSD that can show up on the Samsung?
> 
> 2. My Pioneer AVR is busted (eARC HDMI port not working and not passing DV and HDR), but I am still waiting for the new 2021 AVR models with Dirac Live to be released, in the meantime, does the HDFury replace the broken eARC port between my AVR and LSP9T?
> 
> ps. I have a feeling it's just a video processor, not audio processor.


1/ Yes and that OSD can be customized see (from my Diva):















2/ Yes a vertex2 got 2 videos output and one audio only (extracting audio from any of the 4 inputs sources and can pass audio eARC from your TV to an AVR not supporting eARC/ARC) 
This is what I am doing. Right now if you can wait some weeks, go for the vrroom (vertex3) which is FRL5 1200Mhz which means 8k/60hz or 4k/120Hz + VRR at 40Gbps so future proof for years (I pre-ordered one). It also got 2 audio out (instead of one), one eARC (for a soundbar for example like a sonos which only got one HDMI port) and another one which can pass anything as well (DTS:X, Atmos, LPCM multichannel etc....)


----------



## justbenice

avsscientist said:


> A quick poll, would you be annoyed / pissed / angered if Samsung comes out with LSP10T in September or within the next few months and says, "Sorry, we screwed up on the first version, but after reading all your comments on here, and receiving comments from screen manufacturers, we went back to the drawing board and redesigned our lasers so they won't have this issue anymore."
> 
> I for sure will not be pleased because I just bought the LSP9T now (still within return window), just curious how everyone else would feel.


Nothing wrong with Samsung and the LSP10T. It will much more expensive than the LSP9T so we have nothing to regret. 
By the way, the LSP9T is listing as 4500$ Brand New in Ebay now. So it will pretty cheap to compare with the may be 10,000 $ LSP10T.


----------



## dfx59

justbenice said:


> In the review of the Vividstorm Pro version special design for UST projectors, he said :
> 
> _"This screen is the best element to have been in my home theater for many years"_
> And
> _"We achieve a quality equivalent to the best white screens."_
> 
> About the brightness, i have no idea of what picture mode and picture setting he used . Because adjusting the projector picture setting bring alot of change to the brightness.


Usually he makes measurements in out of the box modes+one calibrated 6500k DeltaE< 3 (if reachable).
This gives true accurate post calibration (accurate colors) measurements to brightness so you can determinate max screen size based on current recommandations ie: 26fL for HDR content. 

Btw: he reviewed the LSP9 https://www.passionhomecinema.fr/bl...ung-the-premiere-sp-lsp9tfa-lavis-de-gregory/
He told me he did not notice speckles with a vividstorm he owns (not sure how far he seated and this is also a bit content related + personnal sensibility so...)


----------



## dfx59

avsscientist said:


> I am a bit confused.
> 
> So on one hand this reviewer said it's brighter than normal white screen due to the design of the screen, but on the other hand, he measured 23% brightness loss.
> 
> I think both statements can be true in this scenario: IF the 23% brightness loss is not measured against white screen as baseline, but a direct measurement of what's reflecting off the Vividstorm.
> 
> By this token, even the 40% brightness loss on the Vividstorm UST screen will still look just as bright as a normal gain 1.0 white screen because of the inherent brightness loss of 40% on the white screen to begin with.
> 
> Great, does this mean now I can put Vividstorm back on my list of consideration again? The speckle issue though seems to point to an inherent design issue that I am not sure firmware update can solve?


A fw update won't solve it. No doubt speckles will exist and be more visible with potentially any ALR/UST screen, vividstorm is not exclusive here.
vividstorm only makes motorized screen which should be avoided if possible for a UST screen because it's not flat to redirect light to the user (it looks flat but it's not actually). 
You are not even supposed to touch the surface, cleaning is an issue (I had to do it because of a stuck bug which cannot be removed with a double face sticker).
My best advice, test the screen if possible. Do not buy something at $2000 with taxes shipping with Hong kong to be desapointed. Right now, vividstorm is giving me a hard time to return/refund it.


----------



## avsenthusiast

dfx59 said:


> Right now if you can wait some weeks, go for the vrroom (vertex3) which is FRL5 1200Mhz which means 8k/60hz or 4k/120Hz + VRR at 40Gbps so future proof for years (I pre-ordered one). It also got 2 audio out (instead of one), one eARC (for a soundbar for example like a sonos which only got one HDMI port) and another one which can pass anything as well (DTS:X, Atmos, LPCM multichannel etc....)


good idea with 2 audio out. I need this now for my for my AVR with broken eARC and HDR!

I went to hdfury vroom page it shows “password protected, how did you place your pre-order?


----------



## dfx59

DELETED, sent via PM


----------



## avsenthusiast

dfx59 said:


> My best advice, test the screen if possible. Do not buy something at $2000 with taxes shipping with Hong kong to be desapointed. Right now, vividstorm is giving me a hard time to return/refund it.


Good advice. In fact, I was already planning to order this set before committing to the Vividstorm S-Pro





Vividstorm One Set Of Screen Material Sample Test Kit Ust Alr Screen Material And Obsidian Long Throw Alr Material In A4 Size - Buy The Ultra-short-throw Ambient Light Rejecting Screen Material Sample,Obsidian Long Focus Alr Screen Material,Ust Alr Screen Material Product on Alibaba.com


Vividstorm One Set Of Screen Material Sample Test Kit Ust Alr Screen Material And Obsidian Long Throw Alr Material In A4 Size - Buy The Ultra-short-throw Ambient Light Rejecting Screen Material Sample,Obsidian Long Focus Alr Screen Material,Ust Alr Screen Material Product on Alibaba.com



www.alibaba.com


----------



## avsenthusiast

justbenice said:


> By the way, the LSP9T is listing as 4500$ Brand New in Ebay now. So it will pretty cheap to compare with the may be 10,000 $ LSP10T.


The cheapest I can find on eBay is $4699 but regardless this trend is worrying me. I hope Samsung is not dumping this flagship because they know a "fixed" model is coming out soon.


----------



## justbenice

edited - deleted !


----------



## Cleveland Plasma

avsscientist said:


> The cheapest I can find on eBay is $4699 but regardless this trend is worrying me. I hope Samsung is not dumping this flagship because they know a "fixed" model is coming out soon.


E-Bay subsidies some items, they will actually pay people to lower there price to acquire more clients. E-Bay charges tax in the states though. They are not dumping them but price drops happen and projectors have margin usually.


----------



## King Rhoton

I fear my request from a couple of pages back has gotten buried. I'm considering an LSP9T, but I need to know if using it closer to the screen than the published minimum of 4.4" results in focus problems. Could anyone try this simple experiment and post your findings? Ideally, how close can you be to the screen before the image suffers from a "normal" viewing distance (for me, that's at least 8 feet). This model has the closest throw distance of any model I can find (aside from the LG HU85LA, but this is an older unit with worse sound, fewer inputs, and a faked green channel), but the box itself is somewhat large, resulting in the real minimum distance to the screen (measuring from the non-wall-end of the unit) being more like 19". Thanks in advance!


----------



## avsenthusiast

@King Rhoton I used to think the closer throw distance the better, but this makes it eally hard to install a center channel speaker with the LSP9T.

As for placing the unit closer to recommended throw distance, I am not sure if the focusing mechanism is capable beyond the range. I will try to test this next time I have to move my projector.


----------



## Mikenificent1

I will say for everyone else, to be polite, there are two people here who are claiming that a matte white screen will be less bright than UST screen with this projector, even throwing out an absurd “40%” light loss, completely fabricated number! Please do not take screen advice from them as they have no idea what they are talking about. Not only does go against the science of how projection screens work, it also goes against what you would see with your actual eyes as a few people who have both mentioned.

Matte white 1.0 screen is a unity gain screen and will reflect virtually the same light output back to the viewer, regardless of the angle of the light source, I.e. the projector. The consequence is it also throws that same light output to everywhere in the room at a 180 degree dispersion angle, including the walls, ceiling, floor etc. 

Now since we are dreaming here about LSP10T, THE best thing Samsung could do is make a 6P version, I.e. 2 sets of the tri color lasers with slightly different wave lengths for each set of colors. This will not only completely eliminate any laser speckle, it will give an even wider color gamut and saturation.


----------



## avsenthusiast

Mikenificent1 said:


> I will say for everyone else, to be polite, there are two people here who are claiming that a matte white screen will be less bright than UST screen with this projector, even throwing out an absurd “40%” light loss, completely fabricated number! Please do not take screen advice from them as they have no idea what they are talking about.


Respectfully what you did here is extremely impolite to me because it sounds like an obfuscation. Instead of calling out the individuals and quoting specific what “two people here“ specifically said, your sowed doubt and confusion into this thread, which is counter-productive to furthering of understanding. It would be more productive and also in the spirit of discovering and sharing too if you had quoted the specific claims by others.

Also, the words you used such as “absurd” and last sentence “they have no idea what they are talking about” seems to show your ego to want to be better or more correct than everyone else. I find this hurtful and I think you should apologize to most people here who just want to maintain a cordial and fun sharing experience.



Mikenificent1 said:


> Not only does go against the science of how projection screens work, it also goes against what you would see with your actual eyes as a few people who have both mentioned.
> 
> Matte white 1.0 screen is a unity gain screen and will reflect virtually the same light output back to the viewer, regardless of the angle of the light source, I.e. the projector. The consequence is it also throws that same light output to everywhere in the room at a 180 degree dispersion angle, including the walls, ceiling, floor etc.


Even though I don’t think the “40% light loss” is correct because I don’t know who did this and what measurements methods have been used, your statement that “virtually same light output back to the viewer“ is not clear to me either, because the measurement method of this “virtually same light output” is not defined.



Mikenificent1 said:


> Now since we are dreaming here about LSP10T, THE best thing Samsung could do is make a 6P version, I.e. 2 sets of the tri color lasers with slightly different wave lengths for each set of colors. This will not only completely eliminate any laser speckle, it will give an even wider color gamut and saturation.


Could you explain further how “2 sets of tri color laser for each set of colors” will lead to elimination of speckle? I can understand maybe the wider color gamut and saturation, even though I don’t see why we would need more than this ?100% DCI-P3 that LSP9T is already capable of.


----------



## JereyWolf

Mikenificent1 said:


> I will say for everyone else, to be polite, there are two people here who are claiming that a matte white screen will be less bright than UST screen with this projector, even throwing out an absurd “40%” light loss, completely fabricated number! Please do not take screen advice from them as they have no idea what they are talking about. Not only does go against the science of how projection screens work, it also goes against what you would see with your actual eyes as a few people who have both mentioned.
> 
> Matte white 1.0 screen is a unity gain screen and will reflect virtually the same light output back to the viewer, regardless of the angle of the light source, I.e. the projector. The consequence is it also throws that same light output to everywhere in the room at a 180 degree dispersion angle, including the walls, ceiling, floor etc.
> 
> Now since we are dreaming here about LSP10T, THE best thing Samsung could do is make a 6P version, I.e. 2 sets of the tri color lasers with slightly different wave lengths for each set of colors. This will not only completely eliminate any laser speckle, it will give an even wider color gamut and saturation.


I think the only claim about a 1.0 gain screen losing brightness with a UST projector came from a quote, from a review. And then there was some question about trying to clarify whether that could be true. 

This was the previously posted quote, from the below review. 
"So in theory 0.6 gain will reflect back only the 60% of the light, but in a white wall with an UST projector we loose more than 40% light already, so the actual picture looks brighter on the Vividstorm."








The New Vividstorm S PRO Electric Tension UST ALR Floor Screen | Full Review


Vividstorm is one of the most promising and of course one of the most up-and-coming screen manufacturers in the world. It was founded in 2004 as a designer/manufacturer of high quality tubular motors and projection fibers in the beautiful city […]




www.projectorjunkies.com





Has the two sets of tri-lasers or something similar been done before?


----------



## dfx59

JereyWolf said:


> Has the two sets of tri-lasers or something similar been done before?


Yes, DP4K-60L
I saw it at Barco HQ during a 2d/3d private demo _*very*_ impressive.

I assume Christie got similar product.

I don't think there is any consumer using such "advanced" and expensive technology.
Btw, one advantage of 6P is also with 3D where you've got one RGB for right eye, another one for left eye 

Regarding speckles there are laser projectors (including RGB) without any of such effects.
Samsung LSP9 due to it's positionning is not part of that category, unfortunately.


----------



## Mikenificent1

dfx59 said:


> Yes, DP4K-60L
> I saw it at Barco HQ during a 2d/3d private demo _*very*_ impressive.
> 
> I assume Christie got similar product.
> 
> I don't think there is any consumer using such "advanced" and expensive technology.
> Btw, one advantage of 6P is also with 3D where you've got one RGB for right eye, another one for left eye
> 
> Regarding speckles there are laser projectors (including RGB) without any of such effects.
> Samsung LSP9 due to it's positionning is not part of that category, unfortunately.


I agree, but if anyone can do it at a reasonable cost, it would be Samsung. Let’s also hope they include dynamic laser dimming as well, which I can’t understand why they didn‘t implement currently.

which RGB projector without speckle are you referring to? How did they do it? Only methods I know are vibrating screen or 6P lasers.


----------



## justbenice

Mikenificent1 said:


> Matte white 1.0 screen is a unity gain screen and will reflect virtually the same light output back to the viewer, regardless of the angle of the light source, I.e. the projector. The consequence is it also throws that same light output to everywhere in the room at a 180 degree dispersion angle, including the walls, ceiling, floor etc.


So, is it true that the ALR UST screen will look brighter than the white matte? Because almost more than half of the light output from the white matte has been absorb by walls, ceiling, floor?


----------



## coug7669

Cleveland Plasma said:


> E-Bay subsidies some items, they will actually pay people to lower there price to acquire more clients. E-Bay charges tax in the states though. They are not dumping them but price drops happen and projectors have margin usually.


With Samsung's past history, I remember they dumped all of their projectors back in 2009. This UST is their return to the market. How fickle is Samsung to this new lineup especially during this pandemic?


----------



## Buster Gonad

Is it ok to post questions about the LSP7T here? 

Interested to know if anyone has tried paring the LSP7T with a Vividstorm Pro S (floor) or a Vividstorm Pro (drop-down) and had any issues? Hoping less of an issue because of the single laser.


----------



## dfx59

Buster Gonad said:


> Is it ok to post questions about the LSP7T here?
> 
> Interested to know if anyone has tried paring the LSP7T with a Vividstorm Pro S (floor) or a Vividstorm Pro (drop-down) and had any issues? Hoping less of an issue because of the single laser.


I would say yes as we have hightly moved away from a strict topic following rule now (talking about screens etc...).

You may already start to read earlier messages in this thread, see:









Official Samsung "Premiere" LSP9T Owners Thread


https://www.avmagazine.it/articoli/4K/1533/supertest-samsung-trilaser-lsp9t_index.html




www.avsforum.com












Official Samsung "Premiere" LSP9T Owners Thread


Just got the lsp9t and looking for best fixed screen to go with. What would be the best 100~110" fixed screen to purchase? New to projector world so just wanted to ask. Thanks! This might help your search...




www.avsforum.com












Official Samsung "Premiere" LSP9T Owners Thread


It's not an issue on my unit... and I don't remember seeing it come up on here before. Does anyone of you think my dealer is right? He said these Samsung 1st gen UST projectors not good quality and recommends that I go with JVC or Sony instead because Samsung uses cheap lens from China so...




www.avsforum.com





I think on post #585 or so, another french had and compare both in details. 

I did not remember seeing lof of speckles with the LSP7 but otherwise picture quality was inferior in all areas (contrast, luminosity, sharpness etc...). Maybee the colours were more accurate because (and it's may just me) the LSP9 in bt.2020 is making green greener and red more red ending up with a non natural pictures to my eyes (oversaturated).
Leaving the projector in P3 might be a good idea (sad for a RBG projector).

To give you a rought idea, I had both the lsp7 & 9 during days at home. I try the lsp7 for a couple of hours and put it back in its cartoon. Once again depends on your expectations level and use case (living room ? TV ? Gaming ? Movies/Series ?)

In the end, the issues I am seeing with the lsp9 are more than enough to return it as well.


----------



## dfx59

justbenice said:


> So, is it true that the ALR UST screen will look brighter than the white matte? Because almost more than half of the light output from the white matte has been absorb by walls, ceiling, floor?


Might be correct but that depends on the room where you put the projector in.
In my room, which is not perfect due to a white ceiling (everything else is black or in the process being black), the white screen IS brighter.

Just like an ALR screen will show a better result with lightning on, while on a white screen you are just washing out and loosing everything.
See below (white 1.0 top vs alr/ust 0.6 bottom) with a 50Watts white bulb at 2 meters light source -> screen.
Perceived contrast is related to the room itself and how much light is getting reflected (just like to get good sound you need absortion panels, bass traps etc...)


----------



## Buster Gonad

dfx59 said:


> I would say yes as we have hightly moved away from a strict topic following rule now (talking about screens etc...).
> 
> You may already start to read earlier messages in this thread, see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Official Samsung "Premiere" LSP9T Owners Thread
> 
> 
> https://www.avmagazine.it/articoli/4K/1533/supertest-samsung-trilaser-lsp9t_index.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Official Samsung "Premiere" LSP9T Owners Thread
> 
> 
> Just got the lsp9t and looking for best fixed screen to go with. What would be the best 100~110" fixed screen to purchase? New to projector world so just wanted to ask. Thanks! This might help your search...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Official Samsung "Premiere" LSP9T Owners Thread
> 
> 
> It's not an issue on my unit... and I don't remember seeing it come up on here before. Does anyone of you think my dealer is right? He said these Samsung 1st gen UST projectors not good quality and recommends that I go with JVC or Sony instead because Samsung uses cheap lens from China so...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think on post #585 or so, another french had and compare both in details.
> 
> I did not remember seeing lof of speckles with the LSP7 but otherwise picture quality was inferior in all areas (contrast, luminosity, sharpness etc...). Maybee the colours were more accurate because (and it's may just me) the LSP9 in bt.2020 is making green greener and red more red ending up with a non natural pictures to my eyes (oversaturated).
> Leaving the projector in P3 might be a good idea (sad for a RBG projector).
> 
> To give you a rought idea, I had both the lsp7 & 9 during days at home. I try the lsp7 for a couple of hours and put it back in its cartoon. Once again depends on your expectations level and use case (living room ? TV ? Gaming ? Movies/Series ?)
> 
> In the end, the issues I am seeing with the lsp9 are more than enough to return it as well.


Thanks @dfx59! Sad to hear you're returning both of them. But such a big investment, you've got to be happy with it. 

I'm still in the early days living with the LSP7T in the living room, using a Vamoo outdoor screen as a stop gap whilst we work out if we want to start hacking our lounge about to accommodate the projector full time. It'll be a fair bit of disruption if we do decide to go for a ceiling mounted screen - and at the cost of the screens and shipping, got to try and make the best decision on what to get.


----------



## dfx59

Buster Gonad said:


> Thanks @dfx59! Sad to hear you're returning both of them. But such a big investment, you've got to be happy with it.
> 
> I'm still in the early days living with the LSP7T in the living room, using a Vamoo outdoor screen as a stop gap whilst we work out if we want to start hacking our lounge about to accommodate the projector full time. It'll be a fair bit of disruption if we do decide to go for a ceiling mounted screen - and at the cost of the screens and shipping, got to try and make the best decision on what to get.


Actually, I wish all the defects Vincent from hdtvtest also noticed did not exist with the LSP9 that would a killing product.

I even wanted to put it outside in the garden to watch soccer games with friends (we are out of the competition anyway so best luck for saturday  Sunday


----------



## Buster Gonad

dfx59 said:


> Actually, I wish all the defects Vincent from hdtvtest also noticed did not exist with the LSP9 that would a killing product.
> 
> I even wanted to put it outside in the garden to watch soccer games with friends (we are out of the competition anyway so best luck for saturday


I also tried it outside in the garden (for the same reasons ) - but was massively disappointed and quickly gave up.


----------



## avsenthusiast

dfx59 said:


> Might be correct but that depends on the room where you put the projector in.
> In my room, which is not perfect due to a white ceiling (everything else is black or in the process being black), the white screen IS brighter.
> Perceived contrast is related to the room itself and how much light is getting reflected (just like to get good sound you need absortion panels, bass traps etc...)


Human vision is complex and subject to whole bunch of interactions, so here are some questions that come to mind after reading these discussions: 

1. What are the standardized measures (instrument-based) of color and/or contrast levels? Is there a method widely agreed and used by all the reviewers? 

2. How many professional reviewers actively acknowledge “human perception“ of colors and contrasts and the various settings, rooms and/or surroundings that can affect it? 

3. For buyers/owners of projectors, there are many use cases, based on real-life scenarios, eg. Ceiling light, soccer game outdoors, movies in dim room, games in bright rooms etc, is it standard practice for reviewers to address whether a projector is suitable for these multiple scenarios? Or are they based more on business vs home entertainment?


----------



## King Rhoton

avsscientist said:


> As for placing the unit closer to recommended throw distance, I am not sure if the focusing mechanism is capable beyond the range. I will try to test this next time I have to move my projector.


Thanks. I'm somewhat hopeful given that folks have posted that larger than the recommended (documented) sizes seems to work ok.


----------



## avsenthusiast

@King Rhoton Just to confirm, you want to place it closer than recommended, not further right?


----------



## King Rhoton

avsscientist said:


> @King Rhoton Just to confirm, you want to place it closer than recommended, not further right?


Yes, closer/smaller. Thanks!


----------



## King Rhoton

After hours on YouTube, I stumbled across an interesting review for the LSP9T, although not interesting in the way that the presenter would have intended. The projector was casting an image which they claimed was in focus, and since it looked small to me, I used the projector width as a standard and deduced that the image was ~75" diagonal (looks smaller than that to me, but that's what my math says). Promising.


----------



## justbenice

@avsscientist : So what is your screen choice now? I think the vividstorm alr ust still best choice to us. Don't afraid about the bright loss, because it 120inch instead of 130inch so it already brighter 17% with LSP9T. 
Sometime i think it ...too bright to me even with the light on.


----------



## ACE844

That Home Theater dud also recently posted a shallow, macro youtube review.


----------



## dfx59

justbenice said:


> @avsscientist : So what is your screen choice now? I think the vividstorm alr ust still best choice to us. Don't afraid about the bright loss, because it 120inch instead of 130inch so it already brighter 17% with LSP9T.
> Sometime i think it ...too bright to me even with the light on.
> View attachment 3153336


May you take picture of a similar scene but much closer so I can check details in uniform areas like sky or the Danube. Thanks


----------



## justbenice

dfx59 said:


> May you take picture of a similar scene but much closer so I can check details in uniform areas like sky or the Danube. Thanks


I forgot what were that movies. So i take some new pics with Transfomer.







































It look like the camera of my phone is too senstive with the laser light so the colors of my picture are not good, and it appear hot zone in the pics too. But acttualy i am now quite enjoy this combo . Its bright, íta sharp, the color is good, the contrast is quite ok, by cover the white plastic case of the projector i almost feel no hot zone at all now.
The only problem left is the "dark red" color sometime it too red especial in football show. I will try to have the red color calibration to see if it can help.


----------



## dfx59

justbenice said:


> I forgot what were that movies. So i take some new pics with Transfomer
> 
> It look like the camera of my phone is too senstive with the laser light so the colors of my picture are not good, and it appear hot zone in the pics too. But acttualy i am now quite enjoy this combo . Its bright, íta sharp, the color is good, the contrast is quite ok, by cover the white plastic case of the projector i almost feel no hot zone at all now.
> The only problem left is the "dark red" color sometime it too red especial in football show. I will try to have the red color calibration to see if it can help.


Color profile is Bt2020 or DCI/P3? Setting P3 should cap the red and green.


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## justbenice

dfx59 said:


> Color profile is Bt2020 or DCI/P3? Setting P3 should cap the red and green.


P3 make green become too green. So i choose PT.709.


----------



## dfx59

justbenice said:


> P3 make green become too green. So i choose PT.709.


Rec709 is the right chose for SDR content / bluray.

For HDR UHD you should pick up P3 or bt2020. I prefered P3 as the colors looks too saturated with bt2020. Also a bit of calibration might help I figure out that colors are not very accurate with the samsung (a/b compare it with a sony & another higher end projector in the 30k range). 
Regards,


----------



## avsenthusiast

justbenice said:


> @avsscientist : So what is your screen choice now? I think the vividstorm alr ust still best choice to us. Don't afraid about the bright loss, because it 120inch instead of 130inch so it already brighter 17% with LSP9T.
> Sometime i think it ...too bright to me even with the light on.


Hi @justbenice thanks for asking.

The screen that I am most interested in is the Vividstorm PRO P Slimline Tension Drop-down screen which has the same ALR UST material as the floor-rising S PRO that most of the owners of LSP9T have.

First of all, I am not afraid of the brightness loss. The LSP9T already feels blindingly bright in a dark room, especially when starting from prolonged low-light scenes when our pupils are already opened up, then abruptly transitioning to super bright full-on white/explosion/daylight scenes. Our pupils can't change that quick, so my audiences are even saying that "their eyes hurt" due to the brightness of this projector.

The only thing that stops me from getting a Vividstorm UST ALR screen is the "speckle effect" that have been mentioned by many here.

But for 10 days since I've had the LSP9T, I have struggled to find this "speckle effect" on my normal 1.0 gain screen, and even when I moved as close as 6" I barely notice any. At first, I thought this was due to my R2 production unit. But after this past weekend, I finally know why.

In order for the "speckles" to be noticeable, I need to observe the reflected rays at an extreme angle. When I stood to the sides of the screen, or climb up to the top of the screen looking down, then the "speckles" or more accurately "patches of rainbow-colored shimmering effect" can be observed easily across wide areas of the screen, not just in the white/bright areas, ie. they light up like a Christmas tree.

Obviously this is not a concern if I keep using the normal white gain 1.0 because in no circumstances will I need to watch anything from those extreme angles.

But the ALR UST screens are a different story. Although the angle of incident doesn't change, because the projector is placed at the same spot, the angle of reflected rays ARE different with its ALR UST screens' serrated optical structure on the surface. I believe (because I don't have the tools to measure accurately), more rays are reflected at an "extreme angle" (not relative to the projector's incident angle) on an ALR UST screen relative to the serrated structures' angle of reflection. This may also explain why other owners are reporting it's "easier" to observe this "rainbow shimmering" on ALR UST.

Is this a function of Samsung's laser or a function of the reflected ray angle of the serrated optical structures of the ALR UST screens, I don't know. I also don't have any tools at my disposal to confirm my hypothesis. Also, it's very likely that the "rainbow shimmer" only shows up past a specific reflected angle so maybe Samsung is secretly developing a screen material that matches LSP9T because they know what specific angle or range of reflection will limit or eliminate the artifacts.

As to whether I will get the Vividstorm, I really want to, because I know it will improve contrast, but I am not going to do it now. In the meantime, I am hoping some other screen manufacturers will have a slightly different serrated optical structure to limit or refuce reflected rays beyond a specific angle where the artifacts can be seen. Besides, Vividistorm has a "super September" sale coming up, I was told, so I can always get it then. But really, Samsung needs to produce or sell their own screens that are "within specifications or design of their own LSP9T" then we will get the best of both worlds.

@dfx59 one mystery though, you said you see the "speckle" clearly even on the white normal gain screen, could you confirm you are seated right in the center of the screen perpendicular to surface when noticing these artifacts? What is your viewing height? Below, center?

For me, I struggle to notice any speckle with my viewing height at 1/3 from the bottom of my 120" -- I wonder also the lower the screen the more likelihood of seeing artifacts because of the larger angle of reflection of more light rays. PS. I have tested "from below" yet, ie. viewing the screen from below the bottom edge of the screen.

Here is an image from my iphone showing the shimmering rainbow:


----------



## dfx59

avsscientist said:


> @dfx59 one mystery though, you said you see the "speckle" clearly even on the white normal gain screen, could you confirm you are seated right in the center of the screen perpendicular to surface when noticing these artifacts? What is your viewing height? Below, center?
> 
> For me, I struggle to notice any speckle with my viewing height at 1/3 from the bottom of my 120" -- I wonder also the lower the screen the more likelihood of seeing artifacts because of the larger angle of reflection of more light rays. PS. I have tested "from below" yet, ie. viewing the screen from below the bottom edge of the screen.
> 
> Here is an image from my iphone showing the shimmering rainbow:


On the white they are less prominent but definitely present and can be noticed without the need of careful attention. 
I sit at 3m from the s-pro (which will left home tomorrow, looking towards DNP Supernova STW now).
Sitted my eyes are at 1-1.10m from ground. The s-pro got 40cm black height of the display surface is 150cm so total is 190cm. 
As such if correctly sitted in the sofa I am perfectly at middle both x,y drections and both screen and projector on the floor.


----------



## avsenthusiast

dfx59 said:


> As such if correctly sitted in the sofa I am perfectly at middle both x,y drections and both screen and projector on the floor.


Yes you should be in perfect viewing spot in both x and y.

So based on what I’m seeing and what you are reporting, I hypothesize that Vvividstorm‘s serrated optical structures based on its current design are too steep or not steep enough to the point of reflecting majority of LScP9T’s “Rainbow Shimmer.”

With the right tools, I think the angles range of “rainbow shimmer” can be measured and determined for LSP9T, thus a new screen can also be developed with its serrated structures just at the optimal slant, so the screen won’t avoid reflecting back rainbow shimmers to viewers seated in ideal positions.

But I don’t how much these tools would cost and if manufacturers are even interested in developing something just for Samsung. Unless of course there are “smarter” screen manufacturers who have already observed this and created ALR UST screens with a different degree of “slant” for the serrated structures then those might be better suited for the LSP9T.

Another wild card is, I don’t know how these “laser engines” work but maybe there is even a way for Samsung to “tweak” the source rays so they don’t produce these rainbow shimmers when reflected within a specific range of angles.


----------



## Cleveland Plasma

coug7669 said:


> With Samsung's past history, I remember they dumped all of their projectors back in 2009. This UST is their return to the market. How fickle is Samsung to this new lineup especially during this pandemic?


Not sure but I know we have stock.


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## justbenice

About the "rainbow effect" , "speckle", "hot zone" ... etc . I don't think Samsung will fix anything. Because it not happend to everyone so it is not a problem of the products. I'v read alot of review or comments of users about the LSP9T and only a few peoples complaint about it.
Samsung are selling a QLED TV 120 inch at a price like 20k usd, 30k usd, and selling a microled TV like 100k usd or even 200k usd, Sony are selling their high end projector at 10k-20k-30k usd. We can't ask that the products cost 5k usd can compare with what cost alot higher.
I myself see no rainbow or speckles, only some "not real black", some "not too good red and green color" but i know its acceptablle in that price range. And accttualy i think this is the BEST that i can buy at that price point.
Can anyone point me out that we can buy another brand projector that can compare with LSP9T with only arroundd 5k usd ?


----------



## bennutt

justbenice said:


> I myself see no rainbow or speckles, only some "not real black", some "not too good red and green color" but i know its acceptablle in that price range. And accttualy i think this is the BEST that i can buy at that price point.
> Can anyone point me out that we can buy another brand projector that can compare with LSP9T with only arroundd 5k usd ?


Yep. LG HU85LA- same price range similar specs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## justbenice

bennutt said:


> Yep. LG HU85LA- same price range similar specs.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


When i were going to buy my first projector, the LG HU85LA was my choice. But after researched i picked the Samsung LSP9T. The LG HU85LA can't compare with the LSP9T in anyway, 120inch vs 130inch, 2700lumen vs 2800lumens, 40-60cm throw vs 10-20cm throw (this spect is a very important to me too), 5W x2 speaker vs 10W x 4 speakers, hdr vs hdr10+, ...etc


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## bennutt

justbenice said:


> When i were going to buy my first projector, the LG HU85LA was my choice. But after researched i picked the Samsung LSP9T. The LG HU85LA can't compare with the LSP9T in anyway, 120inch vs 130inch, 2700lumen vs 2800lumens, 40-60cm throw vs 10-20cm throw (this spect is a very important to me too), 5W x2 speaker vs 10W x 4 speakers, hdr vs hdr10+, ...etc


As an owner of both, I’ll agree to disagree 
You won’t tell the difference between 2700 and 2800 lumens. The LG was placed in the same shelf spot under the 120” screen, and the LG isn’t showing chromatic aberration. If you are running sound through it… maybe you could tell the difference there? I can’t say because I never used those speakers in a theater.
Also, let me know how much HDR10+ content you are watching.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## justbenice

bennutt said:


> As an owner of both, I’ll agree to disagree
> You won’t tell the difference between 2700 and 2800 lumens. The LG was placed in the same shelf spot under the 120” screen, and the LG isn’t showing chromatic aberration. If you are running sound through it… maybe you could tell the difference there? I can’t say because I never used those speakers in a theater.
> Also, let me know how much HDR10+ content you are watching.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes. I did read you and another member conparison between the Samsung and LG in this topic, i also watched 2 videos that compare the LG HU85LA and Samsung LSP9T in Youtube before i decided to go over the Samsung.
The reason not just about the Samsung have all better spec but also because that the Samsung have better details in dark aera and better motion than the LG HU85LA.

By the way, most of us choose the Iphone 12 over the iphone 11 just because the 12 have better spec even we may never feel or use that "better spec".


----------



## avsenthusiast

Specs wise, Samsung wins hands down, period. 

Using the LSP9T on my 120" white normal gain screen, no problem in a pitch dark room! 

But after seeing with my own eyes how the speckle/rainbow shimmer looks like, I am horrified and will not want to introduce it by getting the Vividstorm S-Pro or P-Pro ALR UST. 

Is this ideal? Not. Because I know I can squeeze a bit more black out of this projector. 

But then, are visual artifacts a reasonable compromise for more blacks/contrast? I can't tell but I don't feel like spending US$1800 (with shipping from Vividstorm) for this experiment. 

Maybe buying pack of samples from Vividstorm could be an interim step before spending US$1800 and getting stuck with it -- @dfx59 did Vividstorm eventually accept your return?

In the meantime, hopefully some better motorized projector screen in 130" will come out soon. But by then Samsung may have LSP9T II or LSP9T III that can be used on any screen without the rainbow shimmer.

This is the problem (or blessing) with technology -- something better always comes along, but in the projector world, it doesn't seem to move very fast like iphones so maybe I can live with my LSP9T for a couple of years.

@justbenice please let me know if you have better suggestions for my situation.


----------



## justbenice

@*avsscientist*
I still keep my opinion that the Vidvidstorm S Pro is the best for me! It simple because the LSP9T were already too bright so we don't worry about brightness, just need to focus to contrast, in this case the S Pro help.

You may have another choice like @dfx59 , but it gonna cost alot, the DNP Supernova STW that he choose cost arround 5500usd here, it even more expensive than my LSP9T.










For this laser problem, i simple place my projector lower and keep it hidden behind my center speaker. As i said, i see no rainbow, no speckles, no hotzone,..etc.. Everything almost perfect may be because my projector placement. You may try it!
I see alot of peoples are putting the UST projector into the drawer or something like that so may be it help for speckles, hotzone.
And the floor tension motorized screen also help you when you want change placement of your projector, you can place your projector everywhere, up or down, ..ect . I just love it!
About the LSP9T-Mkii, Mkiii, I don't think Samsung gonna do that with acceptable price. So i still happy with my LSP9T. When time come, stuff get cheaper and i will have a 120inch MicroLed or Oled TV, not a projector. This LSP9T may be the last projector of mine.  Four years ago, i din't even dare to dream to have a 85inch LCD, but now the 85inch LCD only arround 2800$ !

PS : The combo floor tension motorized screen and small size projector LSP9T gonna have a long run with me. I can bring it out to the garden, watching football, BBQ party at night with my friends or my family.  Don't forget about it 4x10w speaker in this case!


----------



## dfx59

avsscientist said:


> Specs wise, Samsung wins hands down, period.
> 
> Using the LSP9T on my 120" white normal gain screen, no problem in a pitch dark room!
> 
> But after seeing with my own eyes how the speckle/rainbow shimmer looks like, I am horrified and will not want to introduce it by getting the Vividstorm S-Pro or P-Pro ALR UST.
> 
> Is this ideal? Not. Because I know I can squeeze a bit more black out of this projector.
> 
> But then, are visual artifacts a reasonable compromise for more blacks/contrast? I can't tell but I don't feel like spending US$1800 (with shipping from Vividstorm) for this experiment.
> 
> Maybe buying pack of samples from Vividstorm could be an interim step before spending US$1800 and getting stuck with it -- @dfx59 did Vividstorm eventually accept your return?
> 
> In the meantime, hopefully some better motorized projector screen in 130" will come out soon. But by then Samsung may have LSP9T II or LSP9T III that can be used on any screen without the rainbow shimmer.
> 
> This is the problem (or blessing) with technology -- something better always comes along, but in the projector world, it doesn't seem to move very fast like iphones so maybe I can live with my LSP9T for a couple of years.
> 
> @justbenice please let me know if you have better suggestions for my situation.


Yes they did after days and it was picked up yesterday. Now they are telling me they cannot refund except via alibaba (was my 1st buy there) or paypal (who covers the fees / exchange rate?).... 
What a company...


----------



## dfx59

justbenice said:


> @*avsscientist*
> I still keep my opinion that the Vidvidstorm S Pro is the best for me! It simple because the LSP9T were already too bright so we don't worry about brightness, just need to focus to contrast, in this case the S Pro help.
> 
> You may have another choice like @dfx59 , but it gonna cost alot, the DNP Supernova STW that he choose cost arround 5500usd here, it even more expensive than my LSP9T.
> 
> For this laser problem, i simple place my projector lower and keep it hidden behind my center speaker. As i said, i see no rainbow, no speckles, no hotzone,..etc.. Everything almost perfect may be because my projector placement. You may try it!
> I see alot of peoples are putting the UST projector into the drawer or something like that so may be it help for speckles, hotzone.
> And the floor tension motorized screen also help you when you want change placement of your projector, you can place your projector everywhere, up or down, ..ect . I just love it!
> About the LSP9T-Mkii, Mkiii, I don't think Samsung gonna do that with acceptable price. So i still happy with my LSP9T. When time come, stuff get cheaper and i will have a 120inch MicroLed or Oled TV, not a projector. This LSP9T may be the last projector of mine.  Four years ago, i din't even dare to dream to have a 85inch LCD, but now the 85inch LCD only arround 2800$ !
> 
> PS : The combo floor tension motorized screen and small size projector LSP9T gonna have a long run with me. I can bring it out to the garden, watching football, BBQ party at night with my friends or my family.  Don't forget about it 4x10w speaker in this case!


Actually I am waiting to *see* the STW in the next few days (won't make the same "mistake" twice...).
Will report then here and maybe open or add content to a specific thread.


----------



## newtophoto

dfx59 said:


> Actually I am waiting to *see* the STW in the next few days (won't make the same "mistake" twice...).
> Will report then here and maybe open or add content to a specific thread.


Did you return the LSP9T? If so, what are you replacing it with?


----------



## avsenthusiast

justbenice said:


> @*avsscientist*
> I still keep my opinion that the Vidvidstorm S Pro is the best for me! It simple because the LSP9T were already too bright so we don't worry about brightness, just need to focus to contrast, in this case the S Pro help.


Actually since LSP9T is so bright, I had a theory yesterday and based on my testing, it seems to have worked to increase contrast without an ALR screen. 

Basically what I did was to find every single settings on this projector that will increase brightness and crank it up to the max. It was late at night so I didn't record everything. I will come back later to share the settings. 

The side effect of making everything to max brightness was that our eyes adjust to the brightness by closing the pupils to the point that darker or black areas appear really black!!! 

I am not saying that this method improved measured blacks, but since LSTP9T is so bright in bright areas, it tricks our eyes into seeing more contrast! Basically this proves my hypthesis that perceived contrast is also as important as measured contrast. Tested on a couple people and it is working so far. Will continue testing.

I am noticing slight differences between Standard, Movie, Filmmaker modes though, one of them seems to look really good in max brightness mode. I will need more testing/comparisons later. But definitely don't use Dynamic.



justbenice said:


> You may have another choice like @dfx59 , but it gonna cost alot, the DNP Supernova STW that he choose cost arround 5500usd here, it even more expensive than my LSP9T.


What is the size of the STW? If it's 130" and proven to be speckle/rainbow shimmer free, then I might consider it.



justbenice said:


> For this laser problem, i simple place my projector lower and keep it hidden behind my center speaker. As i said, i see no rainbow, no speckles, no hotzone,..etc.. Everything almost perfect may be because my projector placement. You may try it!


I will try this tongiht! 



justbenice said:


> I see alot of peoples are putting the UST projector into the drawer or something like that so may be it help for speckles, hotzone.


Very possible.



justbenice said:


> About the LSP9T-Mkii, Mkiii, I don't think Samsung gonna do that with acceptable price. So i still happy with my LSP9T. When time come, stuff get cheaper and i will have a 120inch MicroLed or Oled TV, not a projector.


I want a 120" OLED TV too, but how much will the weight be for that huge piece of glass? Not to mention the chances of breaking or scratching it during transport and even bringing into the house is huge. So for screen size above 85-100", a "physical screen" may not be practical.



justbenice said:


> PS : The combo floor tension motorized screen and small size projector LSP9T gonna have a long run with me. I can bring it out to the garden, watching football, BBQ party at night with my friends or my family.  Don't forget about it 4x10w speaker in this case!


If you plug it into a wireless HDMI receiver/transmitter, you don't even need to run an HDMI cable. 

Actually since it has wi-fi built-in, so if WiFi is strong enough from the house or if you use 5G hotspot on the phone to provide Internet, just use built-in apps and this little thing can create a 130" cinema literally in the middle of garden, or anywhere else you like!


----------



## R8tedm3

avsscientist said:


> I am noticing slight differences between Standard, Movie, Filmmaker modes though, one of them seems to look really good in max brightness mode. I will need more testing/comparisons later. But definitely don't use Dynamic.


I'd say you're on to something there! Movie mode is by far the brightest if you tick all settings to the max, followed by Filmmaker in close 2nd. But you're 100% right and wow it made my unit so bright during the daytime now, with much better contrast. At least in the movie mode which is way brighter than Dynamic mode. This is weird, as Dynamic was always the brightest with anything Samsung has their name on.

It's as if it gained couple hundred lumens all of a sudden. I'd say it's closer to 3500 with everything ticked to the max! Also, the contrast seems much better too.

I will have to measure everything to be 100% certain but to me it looks much better now in Movie vs Filmmaker mode where I was stuck at before.

Good find on this!!


----------



## sollyemmy

justbenice said:


> @*avsscientist*
> I still keep my opinion that the Vidvidstorm S Pro is the best for me! It simple because the LSP9T were already too bright so we don't worry about brightness, just need to focus to contrast, in this case the S Pro help.
> 
> You may have another choice like @dfx59 , but it gonna cost alot, the DNP Supernova STW that he choose cost arround 5500usd here, it even more expensive than my LSP9T.
> 
> View attachment 3154360
> 
> 
> For this laser problem, i simple place my projector lower and keep it hidden behind my center speaker. As i said, i see no rainbow, no speckles, no hotzone,..etc.. Everything almost perfect may be because my projector placement. You may try it!
> I see alot of peoples are putting the UST projector into the drawer or something like that so may be it help for speckles, hotzone.
> And the floor tension motorized screen also help you when you want change placement of your projector, you can place your projector everywhere, up or down, ..ect . I just love it!
> About the LSP9T-Mkii, Mkiii, I don't think Samsung gonna do that with acceptable price. So i still happy with my LSP9T. When time come, stuff get cheaper and i will have a 120inch MicroLed or Oled TV, not a projector. This LSP9T may be the last projector of mine.  Four years ago, i din't even dare to dream to have a 85inch LCD, but now the 85inch LCD only arround 2800$ !
> 
> PS : The combo floor tension motorized screen and small size projector LSP9T gonna have a long run with me. I can bring it out to the garden, watching football, BBQ party at night with my friends or my family.  Don't forget about it 4x10w speaker in this case!


what are those tables/ consoles you put the projector and speaker on? how and where can i find one?


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## sollyemmy

My lsp9t projector is out of focus on the right edge and I am not able to get that to focus. It's blurry starting at the top corner and expanding to the bottom. See images and please let me know if anyone has seen this or have a fix for it. It's the same on the wall or a UST alr screen. I moved it to the smallest to largest image but is still the same.









Sent from my HD1907 using Tapatalk


----------



## justbenice

avsscientist said:


> Actually since LSP9T is so bright, I had a theory yesterday and based on my testing, it seems to have worked to increase contrast without an ALR screen.
> 
> Basically what I did was to find every single settings on this projector that will increase brightness and crank it up to the max. It was late at night so I didn't record everything. I will come back later to share the settings.
> 
> The side effect of making everything to max brightness was that our eyes adjust to the brightness by closing the pupils to the point that darker or black areas appear really black!!!
> 
> I am not saying that this method improved measured blacks, but since LSTP9T is so bright in bright areas, it tricks our eyes into seeing more contrast! Basically this proves my hypthesis that perceived contrast is also as important as measured contrast. Tested on a couple people and it is working so far. Will continue testing.
> 
> I am noticing slight differences between Standard, Movie, Filmmaker modes though, one of them seems to look really good in max brightness mode. I will need more testing/comparisons later. But definitely don't use Dynamic.
> 
> 
> What is the size of the STW? If it's 130" and proven to be speckle/rainbow shimmer free, then I might consider it.
> 
> 
> I will try this tongiht!
> 
> 
> Very possible.
> 
> 
> I want a 120" OLED TV too, but how much will the weight be for that huge piece of glass? Not to mention the chances of breaking or scratching it during transport and even bringing into the house is huge. So for screen size above 85-100", a "physical screen" may not be practical.
> 
> 
> If you plug it into a wireless HDMI receiver/transmitter, you don't even need to run an HDMI cable.
> 
> Actually since it has wi-fi built-in, so if WiFi is strong enough from the house or if you use 5G hotspot on the phone to provide Internet, just use built-in apps and this little thing can create a 130" cinema literally in the middle of garden, or anywhere else you like!


- Great to hear that you find out a way to improve contrast, please let me know the result ! About the brightness, this project were very bright, i'v tried to increase contrast and brightness in my Dune 4K Player too and have a reseult the LSP9T can bright near a LCD TV (But the color can't be fresh and vivid like the real LCD or OLED) , but i don't want too bright, with 120inch screen that too bright my eye quite uncomfortable. The Filmmaker is my choice, together with decrease a little color in my Dune 4K Player. 
I found out that we adjust the brightness, contrast and color from the Source Player make the picture better than adjust in the projector itself.

- The DNP Supernova STW have 120inch maxium only!


----------



## justbenice

sollyemmy said:


> what are those tables/ consoles you put the projector and speaker on? how and where can i find one?


 My tables is custom made ( I am not living in US)

But you can find something like this in Amazon to place your Vividstorm S Pro screen :










And something like this in Amazon too to place your LSP9T to make it lower than the screen :









And the S Pro Floor Tension Motorized screen also can adjust the screen heght by 20-25cm with remote. So it very easy to manage the placement of your screen and projector.


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## justbenice

sollyemmy said:


> My lsp9t projector is out of focus on the right edge and I am not able to get that to focus. It's blurry starting at the top corner and expanding to the bottom. See images and please let me know if anyone has seen this or have a fix for it. It's the same on the wall or a UST alr screen. I moved it to the smallest to largest image but is still the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my HD1907 using Tapatalk


You should try to place your projector exactly like the manual. Then using focus menu of the LSP9T to adjust the best focus between 2 side of the screen. If you can't make it focus then your projector got problem, you should send it back to warrany.
It look like the LSP9T have bad quality control, i see alot of bad copy here.


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## sollyemmy

justbenice said:


> You should try to place your projector exactly like the manual. Then using focus menu of the LSP9T to adjust the best focus between 2 side of the screen. If you can't make it focus then your projector got problem, you should send it back to warrany.
> It look like the LSP9T have bad quality control, i see alot of bad copy here.


I actually did place it and played with moving all over but the blur still exists and the blur only seems to be on the right side .. I will call the Samsung about this and try to get some support on it. Hopefully it's not the unit. I have had this unit for about 5 months but only started using it so I was not sure . Thanks though

Sent from my HD1907 using Tapatalk


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## Skrill

Hey everyone -- thinking of setting up a media room with a Samsung LSP9T and a 123" Aeon CLR 3 screen. Any good tables or consoles out there to both hold the projector and a good center channel (like a decent sized one?

Thanks


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## iunknown2008

Skrill said:


> Hey everyone -- thinking of setting up a media room with a Samsung LSP9T and a 123" Aeon CLR 3 screen. Any good tables or consoles out there to both hold the projector and a good center channel (like a decent sized one?
> 
> Thanks


Depending on the height of your wall, your going to want to look for something very low profile, under 15". There is one company that makes one that is built in so you can hide the unit. I'm mounting a bar on the wall below the screen. Maybe look into in wall center channel?
Rison Expandable Modern TV Unit | Povison Furniture HomeStores


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## newtophoto

Anyone watch Luca on this thing yet? It looked like there were some artifacts occuring in the clouds in backgrounds. Anyone know what causes this or is it a setting?

edit: i guess what i just described is speckling, now i know what it is.


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## justbenice

newtophoto said:


> Anyone watch Luca on this thing yet? It looked like there were some artifacts occuring in the clouds in backgrounds. Anyone know what causes this or is it a setting?
> 
> edit: i guess what i just described is speckling, now i know what it is.


Can you take the pictures of that speckling? Because it look like i don't have it.

Lucy is very good movies, i love it. And it were one of the movies that have very beautiful picture quality.


----------



## avsenthusiast

newtophoto said:


> Anyone watch Luca on this thing yet? It looked like there were some artifacts occuring in the clouds in backgrounds. Anyone know what causes this or is it a setting?
> 
> edit: i guess what i just described is speckling, now i know what it is.


A few posts ago I posted a horrible image of "speckling" or what I prefer to call "rainbow shimmer" due to its multi-color and reflective characteristics. Is what you are observing similar? Are you using an ALR screen for UST? I also went into details with my theory why people with UST screens are seeing it more than people with normal gain screen.

But then people like @justbenice are not seeing these artifacts but this could be due to his new "production month" so maybe Samsung has tweaked it laser engine somehow to eliminate this issue in newer units.


----------



## newtophoto

justbenice said:


> Can you take the pictures of that speckling? Because it look like i don't have it.
> 
> Lucy is very good movies, i love it. And it were one of the movies that have very beautiful picture quality.
> 
> 
> View attachment 3156625
> 
> View attachment 3156626
> 
> View attachment 3156627
> View attachment 3156647


i was referring to Luca, disney pixar's new movie.


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## newtophoto

avsscientist said:


> A few posts ago I posted a horrible image of "speckling" or what I prefer to call "rainbow shimmer" due to its multi-color and reflective characteristics. Is what you are observing similar? Are you using an ALR screen for UST? I also went into details with my theory why people with UST screens are seeing it more than people with normal gain screen.
> 
> But then people like @justbenice are not seeing these artifacts but this could be due to his new "production month" so maybe Samsung has tweaked it laser engine somehow to eliminate this issue in newer units.


i will try and take some pictures later.

i am using this screen: Elite PFT120H-DST Pro Frame Thin DarkUST 120 diag. (58.8x104.6) - 16:9 - DarkStar UST - 0.5 Gain - Elite Screens Elite-PFT120H-DST


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## ApeEx

I ordered a new unit directly from Samsung, for science! If there was a major improvement in image quality I would have kept it. The manufacturer date was April 2021. I didn't do any professional measurements, just eyeballed it. The image was bright, colorful and sharp...and completely identical to my original unit. It had the exact same amount of laser speckle and CA. There was only one difference I noticed: they added a cover around the lens under the glass, so it doesn't look unfinished like the original.


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## newtophoto

here are the pictures from luca, look at the clouds. is that speckling?


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## avsenthusiast

newtophoto said:


> here are the pictures from luca, look at the clouds. is that speckling?


To me it looks like a combination of speckling and a repeating pattern of grid from the surface structure of the screen, really hard to tell via a picture. 

As observed on mine, it’s more like a “rainbow shimmer” that changes in intensity as you move viewing direction/angle.


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## avsenthusiast

ApeEx said:


> There was only one difference I noticed: they added a cover around the lens under the glass, so it doesn't look unfinished like the original.


I wonder if this cover helps to reduce the big patch of light bleed in the center bottom of the screen, it’s really obvious when watching 2:35 content In dark room.


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## naperthrill

if the lsp9t can project up to 130 inch, why are people saying you can only get 120 alr? I thought they make ALR screens larger than 120 inch?


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## avsenthusiast

naperthrill said:


> if the lsp9t can project up to 130 inch, why are people saying you can only get 120 alr? I thought they make ALR screens larger than 120 inch?


I don't think people are saying "you can only get 120" ALR" for LSP9T becuase there are bigger ALR screens.

But here are some reasons why 120" is preferred:

 Vividstorm has a motorized one that has acceptable pricing
120" image will be brighter
Maybe even less artifacts (I can't confirm this because I only have 120" screen)
Easier to transport

I think if your viewing distance is larger, a 130" will be perfectly fine for LSP9T, as this thing is so bright it can go even larger, as long as the focusing system allows it to go beyond the "max" screen size.


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## naperthrill

Got it, i spoke to someone at projectorscreen who was stating that up to 120 lsp9t was excellent but didn't recommend above that screen size. probably was going to just have it on a dedicated theater room wall so fixed screen would be fine. whoever I spoke to said the ALR functionality seemed to only function up to 120 inch but not above that size in regards to screens. seemed weird to me.


----------



## avsenthusiast

naperthrill said:


> Got it, i spoke to someone at projectorscreen who was stating that up to 120 lsp9t was excellent but didn't recommend above that screen size. probably was going to just have it on a dedicated theater room wall so fixed screen would be fine. whoever I spoke to said the ALR functionality seemed to only function up to 120 inch but not above that size in regards to screens. seemed weird to me.


Yes it does seem weird for you to get that kind of advice. But judging from the artifacts that many owners of LSP9T have acknowledged on here, I wonder if these "ALR for UST" screens are even designed properly to begin with. 

More data is needed, but I am not a dealer or a youtube reviewer, otherwise I would be requesting screen samples to test and report here, without the vested interested of trying to sell one brand over other brands of screen.


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## justbenice

newtophoto said:


> here are the pictures from luca, look at the clouds. is that speckling?
> View attachment 3157239
> View attachment 3157240
> View attachment 3157241


For some reason. It look like my LSP9T don't have that speckling. I using Filmmaker mode. Vividstorm S Pro screen.


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## newtophoto

justbenice said:


> For some reason. It look like my LSP9T don't have that speckling. I using Filmmaker mode. Vividstorm S Pro screen.
> 
> View attachment 3157706
> 
> View attachment 3157708


weird, i wonder if its due to the screen then.


----------



## avsenthusiast

newtophoto said:


> weird, i wonder if its due to the screen then.


That’s what I’ve been suspecting for some time. With manufacturers not disclosing the details of their screens, ie. Batch numbers, revisions, design changes etc, how are we to know if we are buying are actually optimized especially when laser UST projectors are quite new and still evolving? 

What makes it worse is there are no measurement tools or publicly available technique to easily and quickly assess the quality of a screen at home, so ultimately we will have to rely on refund policies until there is more transparency.


----------



## justbenice

newtophoto said:


> weird, i wonder if its due to the screen then.


It happend to all of movies or only this one? What is your player and what is your source of thí Luca movies ?


----------



## Mikenificent1

That doesn’t look like laser speckle. You’re photo isn’t sharp enough to show true laser speckle. That looks like banding. If you don’t know what that is, this could help:

4K TVs and projectors: what is Color Banding (posterization or solarization)? - Son-Vidéo.com: blog




newtophoto said:


> here are the pictures from luca, look at the clouds. is that speckling?
> View attachment 3157239
> View attachment 3157240
> View attachment 3157241


----------



## ApeEx

avsscientist said:


> I wonder if this cover helps to reduce the big patch of light bleed in the center bottom of the screen, it’s really obvious when watching 2:35 content In dark room.


I suspect that's from reflections from the white surface of the projector. Someone in this forum was able to reduce that effect with black felt.


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## avsenthusiast

Has anyone noticed that when watching 4K HDR content, the projector randomly produces short bursts of color flicker? 

It's so short (maybe even less than a second) so it may be hard to catch, but it's most obvious in the skin tones, as if the projector is flipping between color spaces. For example, content would get much redder and then back to normal within less than a second. Other times, content would get much paler and in under a second it switches back to normal. 

These flickers are tiring my eyes out, creating fatigue. (Is this why some owners reported tiredness after watching this projector?)

I will try to fix the color space to Native or BT2020 instead of Auto to see if it fixes this issue.

Update: This is observed so far only on the Netflix app my Shield TV, haven't tried the Netflix app on ATV or the native Netflix app yet, so I will try ithem tonight. Maybe the issue is app or source-dependent.


----------



## sollyemmy

sollyemmy said:


> My lsp9t projector is out of focus on the right edge and I am not able to get that to focus. It's blurry starting at the top corner and expanding to the bottom. See images and please let me know if anyone has seen this or have a fix for it. It's the same on the wall or a UST alr screen. I moved it to the smallest to largest image but is still the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my HD1907 using Tapatalk


Samsung Customer service is a PAIN.

First - i am not able to raise the service request online from my account using any web browser, i get to the raise new service request and then nothing - i dont get fields to type in or next buttons etc etc, nothing is either clickable or grayed out.. this is the page it asks for the issue, symptom etc and i cannot proceed further since nothing is clickable.

So i called them and texted them on 07/19/2021 and they said i will get a call from their technician in 24 to 48 hours.

I called them again today (07/28/2021) after no response and the person on call said it was rescheduled but i wasnt notified because of no reason so i should expect a call again within 72 hours. Frustrated - i started the text support as i did before so i had to reinitiate it. The person said that i was supposed to send the projector for service/ repair as per the ticket, which mind you i cannot track or check status online via my account.

I said ok to sending in the projector and they send me the service center in NJ and their reviews are terrible online. I have no other choice but to send it in so i asked how should i send it in and the rep said to the address above. I asked for a shipping label and the rep asked me to call the service center tomorrow (its closed already) and then i can get a shipping label.

After much back and forth the rep agreed to send me a shipping label (e label) after creating a "ticket" and then i have been waiting and after 30 minutes the tickets created and my address is wrong. I had them correct it but they got the zipcode incorrect again. Finally got the shipping label with correct address after 3 attempts.

I asked for a timeline roughly and the rep said that it would be 4 to 6 weeks to which i asked why and the rep said " the return shipping after repair is 7 to 10 business days", diagnosing the issue is usually a week, resolving could be another week or 2 or 4 depending on the cause.

This is my first major repair for a major product i own so i do not know the usual timelines for repairs so please be kind and help me understand if what the rep said is usually true for repairs.

After a 30 minute call - Nothing
After 2+ hours of chatting - Came to know i was supposed to send in my device, got the shipping label to send in the projector.

My question to all the other LSP9T/ LSP7T owners - Did you send your projector in for any kind of service? If so - how was it? any inputs or advice before i send the projector in? My label is valid for 7 days so i want to gather as much information as possible before i send it in.

Funny thing is that i have to take prints of the issue i am having and put them in the package with the mail as requested by the rep because they may not understand what the issue could be at the repair center.


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> Has anyone noticed that when watching 4K HDR content, the projector randomly produces short bursts of color flicker?
> 
> It's so short (maybe even less than a second) so it may be hard to catch, but it's most obvious in the skin tones, as if the projector is flipping between color spaces. For example, content would get much redder and then back to normal within less than a second. Other times, content would get much paler and in under a second it switches back to normal.
> 
> These flickers are tiring my eyes out, creating fatigue. (Is this why some owners reported tiredness after watching this projector?)
> 
> I will try to fix the color space to Native or BT2020 instead of Auto to see if it fixes this issue.
> 
> Update: This is observed so far only on the Netflix app my Shield TV, haven't tried the Netflix app on ATV or the native Netflix app yet, so I will try ithem tonight. Maybe the issue is app or source-dependent.


I attempted to describe a similar effect that I've seen for a long time. Check out post #970 to see if this is similar to what you see. 








Official Samsung "Premiere" LSP9T Owners Thread


That's about what I would have to do...I have an RP-504C so it is no small center...but I am reading from so many people that a projector won't work in my room because of the paint even if I use a high dollar UST ALR screen.....no light from outside, but light walls and ceiling that I'm not...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## JereyWolf

sollyemmy said:


> Samsung Customer service is a PAIN.
> 
> First - i am not able to raise the service request online from my account using any web browser, i get to the raise new service request and then nothing - i dont get fields to type in or next buttons etc etc, nothing is either clickable or grayed out.. this is the page it asks for the issue, symptom etc and i cannot proceed further since nothing is clickable.
> 
> So i called them and texted them on 07/19/2021 and they said i will get a call from their technician in 24 to 48 hours.
> 
> I called them again today (07/28/2021) after no response and the person on call said it was rescheduled but i wasnt notified because of no reason so i should expect a call again within 72 hours. Frustrated - i started the text support as i did before so i had to reinitiate it. The person said that i was supposed to send the projector for service/ repair as per the ticket, which mind you i cannot track or check status online via my account.
> 
> I said ok to sending in the projector and they send me the service center in NJ and their reviews are terrible online. I have no other choice but to send it in so i asked how should i send it in and the rep said to the address above. I asked for a shipping label and the rep asked me to call the service center tomorrow (its closed already) and then i can get a shipping label.
> 
> After much back and forth the rep agreed to send me a shipping label (e label) after creating a "ticket" and then i have been waiting and after 30 minutes the tickets created and my address is wrong. I had them correct it but they got the zipcode incorrect again. Finally got the shipping label with correct address after 3 attempts.
> 
> I asked for a timeline roughly and the rep said that it would be 4 to 6 weeks to which i asked why and the rep said " the return shipping after repair is 7 to 10 business days", diagnosing the issue is usually a week, resolving could be another week or 2 or 4 depending on the cause.
> 
> This is my first major repair for a major product i own so i do not know the usual timelines for repairs so please be kind and help me understand if what the rep said is usually true for repairs.
> 
> After a 30 minute call - Nothing
> After 2+ hours of chatting - Came to know i was supposed to send in my device, got the shipping label to send in the projector.
> 
> My question to all the other LSP9T/ LSP7T owners - Did you send your projector in for any kind of service? If so - how was it? any inputs or advice before i send the projector in? My label is valid for 7 days so i want to gather as much information as possible before i send it in.
> 
> Funny thing is that i have to take prints of the issue i am having and put them in the package with the mail as requested by the rep because they may not understand what the issue could be at the repair center.


I've had multiple service tickets set up while I was considering sending my projector in....but it was for issues that I think are inherent to the design or just firmware bugs so I decided not to send it each time. I also read the terrible review of that service center. The other thing is that the shipping label provided certainly does not have insurance to cover the cost of the projector...and Samsung directly states that if there is any in-transit damage, they are not liable...even when they provide the label. I tried to make this point to Samsung support of why I was concerned and wanted to be sure that if it was damaged, it would be covered by someone....but the response was essentially: no need to worry, UPS will ship without any damages. You can see part of my chat transcript attached.


----------



## sollyemmy

JereyWolf said:


> I've had multiple service tickets set up while I was considering sending my projector in....but it was for issues that I think are inherent to the design or just firmware bugs so I decided not to send it each time. I also read the terrible review of that service center. The other thing is that the shipping label provided certainly does not have insurance to cover the cost of the projector...and Samsung directly states that if there is any in-transit damage, they are not liable...even when they provide the label. I tried to make this point to Samsung support of why I was concerned and wanted to be sure that if it was damaged, it would be covered by someone....but the response was essentially: no need to worry, UPS will ship without any damages. You can see part of my chat transcript attached.
> 
> View attachment 3159331


Yes - I saw that note as well but i was told to get the insurance for it in a similar way. 

Did you send your unit in for repair and if so was the repair satisfactory? 

I will call the NJ Service Center today and hopefully talk to them and get more insight.


----------



## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> I attempted to describe a similar effect that I've seen for a long time. Check out post #970 to see if this is similar to what you see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Official Samsung "Premiere" LSP9T Owners Thread
> 
> 
> That's about what I would have to do...I have an RP-504C so it is no small center...but I am reading from so many people that a projector won't work in my room because of the paint even if I use a high dollar UST ALR screen.....no light from outside, but light walls and ceiling that I'm not...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


@JereyWolf thanks so much for linking to your earlier post.

Yes the color shift is happening on mine exactly the way shown in your GIFs. I actually noticed it last night after a bit of testing and found out that after turning off subtitles, the color shift and a bit of contrast shift stop, period.

Wow, now that I noticed this, I am thinking this is a BIGGER DESIGN FLAW than all the speckles, rainbow shimmer whatever and/or slow GUI whatever combined.

The color shifts tied to each time subtitles go on and off and change are giving me a headache after half an episode of foreign TV with subtitles on.

How is this not talked more about on this forum I don't know, because the color shifts so so bad.

I think Samsung needs to immediately address this issue via firmware or admit to a design defect that they cannot fix. I am emailing my dealer now and get him to get Samsung rep's attention immediately.

@justbenice can you check if this occurs on your unit which has the latest production date out of everyone who has posted here?


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> @JereyWolf thanks so much for linking to your earlier post.
> .....
> How is this not talked more about on this forum I don't know, because the color shifts so so bad.


I still think the effect is subtle and can be missed...but once you see it... especially if you have a critical eye it's hard to not see it often.
The only other person I've seen confirm it in their unit was @avmagazine in his review here:

Supertest Samsung Trilaser LSP9T | Pag 1: Introduzione: il sistema laser 3P

I think it's mentioned in the calibration section.


----------



## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> I still think the effect is subtle and can be missed...but once you see it... especially if you have a critical eye it's hard to not see it often.
> The only other person I've seen confirm it in their unit was @avmagazine in his review here:
> 
> Supertest Samsung Trilaser LSP9T | Pag 1: Introduzione: il sistema laser 3P
> 
> I think it's mentioned in the calibration section.


I have noticed this color shift issue from day one, but dismissed it as improper settings, but now I know it’s not me. Thanks @JereyWolf for the confirmation.

But I can’t find this issue mentioned in the article you linked to. (Very interesting article though!) is it possible you read it in a different article? 

I also noticed tonight if there are only two or three words then shifts don’t happen, but if the length of texts exceeds 4 or 5 then color shifts happen, really really annoying. Also if the scenes have fast cuts, then you can’t notice the shifts but it’s super bad when watching drama when the camera stays on actors’ faces for a long time, in one cut, i can notice 10x shifts every time subtitles go on and off, seriously driving me insane,

SDR content seems to be free of this problem so far. I seriously hope Samsung can fix this via firmware.

I haven’t tested Prime app, so far Netflix and Emby both trigger these shifts.

sigh…


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> I have noticed this color shift issue from day one, but dismissed it as improper settings, but now I know it’s not me. Thanks @JereyWolf for the confirmation.
> 
> But I can’t find this issue mentioned in the article you linked to. (Very interesting article though!) is it possible you read it in a different article?
> 
> I also noticed tonight if there are only two or three words then shifts don’t happen, but if the length of texts exceeds 4 or 5 then color shifts happen, really really annoying. Also if the scenes have fast cuts, then you can’t notice the shifts but it’s super bad when watching drama when the camera stays on actors’ faces for a long time, in one cut, i can notice 10x shifts every time subtitles go on and off, seriously driving me insane,
> 
> SDR content seems to be free of this problem so far. I seriously hope Samsung can fix this via firmware.
> 
> I haven’t tested Prime app, so far Netflix and Emby both trigger these shifts.
> 
> sigh…


Here is the quote from the article that describes the effect. 

"I also point out *a couple of* rather 'depressing' ' *bugs* '. The first concerns *white calibration* : once you enter the menu, the red and blue components drop by a few percentage points: for calibration you are forced to enter and exit the menu each time and this is annoying."

I think that the color shifting might be related to light level with in a frame. Because subtitles are typically white, they can have a higher impact of the light level of the frame. As Emidio describes in his article that color shift happens when opening the projector's menu. In the initial reviews of the LSP9T there was talk about dynamic dimming....maybe this is the result.
I think that I have noticed the color shift does not happen when watching content with letterboxing.


----------



## justbenice

avsscientist said:


> @JereyWolf thanks so much for linking to your earlier post.
> 
> Yes the color shift is happening on mine exactly the way shown in your GIFs. I actually noticed it last night after a bit of testing and found out that after turning off subtitles, the color shift and a bit of contrast shift stop, period.
> 
> Wow, now that I noticed this, I am thinking this is a BIGGER DESIGN FLAW than all the speckles, rainbow shimmer whatever and/or slow GUI whatever combined.
> 
> The color shifts tied to each time subtitles go on and off and change are giving me a headache after half an episode of foreign TV with subtitles on.
> 
> How is this not talked more about on this forum I don't know, because the color shifts so so bad.
> 
> I think Samsung needs to immediately address this issue via firmware or admit to a design defect that they cannot fix. I am emailing my dealer now and get him to get Samsung rep's attention immediately.
> 
> @justbenice can you check if this occurs on your unit which has the latest production date out of everyone who has posted here?


Hi,
Mine is January 2021 so i don't think that i have lastest products here.
I don't see that color shift even i watching with my projector everydays now ( my city got lockdown because covid so we stay at home all days long) . I do see some brighter zones arround white subtiltes, but its ok because most of highend TV with local dimming had it.

I think you should get a real UST screen to see if there were the project problem or your screen problem. As we all known, the UST laser projector beams the hight power laser line to the screen at a super narrow angle, and it were a very strong laser line, i myself can see that laser beaming with my eye. So we need a screen that can absorb the laser at that angel without spreading the light arround even a few pixels, and that "bleeding" light will mess with another color arround.

And we know that the UST ALR screen had higher contrast than normall screen, i think it because the UST ALR screen can absorb and redirect light better, color and contrast will more accuracy with it.


----------



## Tophe_fr

Did you try disabling black enhancement ?


----------



## JereyWolf

Tophe_fr said:


> Did you try disabling black enhancement ?


Do you mean the contrast enhancer? I always have that disabled.


----------



## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> Here is the quote from the article that describes the effect.
> "I also point out *a couple of* rather 'depressing' ' *bugs* '. The first concerns *white calibration* : once you enter the menu, the red and blue components drop by a few percentage points: for calibration you are forced to enter and exit the menu each time and this is annoying."


Thanks for quoting this paragraph. I read it the first time but didn't think the menu had anything to do with subtitles. But you're right, if one type of screen element could affect the colors and contrast, things like menu definitely would. 

Actually I have a question for you. The original article is in Italian so Google Translate is not very hard to understand. How did the reviewer solve this color shift problem for his white balance calibration? When he said "forced to enter and exit the menu each time" I believe he means to get accurate reading you will have to dismiss the menu, and let the reader do its reading and then bring up menu again to make changes? This sounds extremely annoying, no wonder he said so in the review.

Did you also run into this issue for your calibration?



JereyWolf said:


> I think that the color shifting might be related to light level with in a frame. Because subtitles are typically white, they can have a higher impact of the light level of the frame. As Emidio describes in his article that color shift happens when opening the projector's menu. In the initial reviews of the LSP9T there was talk about dynamic dimming....maybe this is the result. I think that I have noticed the color shift does not happen when watching content with letterboxing.


Good point about letterboxing, I will definitely pay attention to it during my tests later. Some apps could move the texts further down to the letterbox region if this avoid color and contrast shifts. But no such luck for 16:9 content. 

This sounds to me that LSP9T has a *FLAW* right now that lets subtitles and all screen elements affect colors and contrast. I am wondering if this is a processor issue, algorithm or something else all combined.


----------



## avsenthusiast

justbenice said:


> I think you should get a real UST screen to see if there were the project problem or your screen problem.


Actually according to the article that @JereyWolf linked to, if "Unity Gain" screen means normal 1.0 gain screen, the reviewer thinks it's better than Vividstorm UST to have least amount of speckling so I am going to keep using my normal 1.0 gain screen for now.



justbenice said:


> And we know that the UST ALR screen had higher contrast than normall screen, i think it because the UST ALR screen can absorb and redirect light better, color and contrast will more accuracy with it.


The issue that JereyWolf and I are having is not about color accuracy, the issue is color shifting constantly when subtitles appear and go away.


----------



## avsenthusiast

@JereyWolf do you have a video processor? I am wondering if one of these processors will solve this color shift issue.


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> @JereyWolf do you have a video processor? I am wondering if one of these processors will solve this color shift issue.


I did run into the color shifting during calibration...but at the time I knew less about what content was causing it and I was looking for it less, so I wasn't aware enough to change the way I was calibrating to compensate for it. I also feel that it's easier to see on skin tones vs just on a menu interface or plain color patterns.

I have my PC connected to my projector and I use MadVR and Kodi to play movies...I think that counts as a video processor. I have the same color shift with that source too. I've tested MadVR vs Windows Media player vs the Blu-Ray disc on my Sony player. Same result each time.

I used to notice the color shifting all the time while watching episodes of The Office before it was removed from Netflix. I actually made this post on my second day of owning the projector (8 months ago):



JereyWolf said:


> In the last day and a half of watching various content I've noticed a strange effect that I'll describe as cycling saturation...the image seems to shift red and then come back to normal quickly, sort of subtle too but definitely noticable. I've seen it on the native netflix app and on netflix streaming from Nvidia shield. It's happening in sdr and HDR content. Anyone else seen this effect or have an idea what would be causing it?


----------



## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> I did run into the color shifting during calibration...but at the time I knew less about what content was causing it and I was looking for it less, so I wasn't aware enough to change the way I was calibrating to compensate for it. I also feel that it's easier to see on skin tones vs just on a menu interface or plain color patterns.


You're absolutely right. It's very obvious on skin tones especially it's a shot of someone's head and if the camera is not panning/moving.

I also think the Italian reviewer didn't realize the contrast change because he was primarily playing with menus and charts so I don't think the contrast change is noticeable.



JereyWolf said:


> I have my PC connected to my projector and I use MadVR and Kodi to play movies...I think that counts as a video processor. I have the same color shift with that source too. I've tested MadVR vs Windows Media player vs the Blu-Ray disc on my Sony player. Same result each time.


I don't know enough about software decoder like MadVR and Kodi, but my understanding is that MadVR is releasing a hardware device soon. Logic seems to be telling me that it doesn't seem using any of the video processors would make a difference because nVidia already "processes" the video signals by applying sharpening and upscaling etc so even this doesn't prevent LSP9T from changing colors, so I think it's something fundamental on LSP9T that just doesn't like white texts especially in darker scenes.



JereyWolf said:


> I used to notice the color shifting all the time while watching episodes of The Office before it was removed from Netflix. I actually made this post on my second day of owning the projector (8 months ago):


Me too. I noticed it on the first day or two but dismissed it because I thought my settings were wrong and/or my source devices are not set correctly. But after a month with it and ruling out all other potential sources of issues, I think it's not me it's the LSP9T.

PS. @JereyWolf do you have Amazon Prime account? I just tested it by making subtitle font size the smallest and it doesn't seem to trigger this color shift. Could you test this?

If confirmed, then it's only Netflix's stupid big non-adjustable font size and style that are causing color shift issues for me.

I will try an UHD blu-ray later to see how bad it is using this source.


----------



## justbenice

@avsscientist

Do you remember the problem that this LSP9T doesn't auto change the color format even we set it Auto ? I do see some funny skin color tone sometime, because the projector doesn't auto change the format between Rec.709, DCI-P3, and Rec.2020. So sometime i have to manual change it eveytime i change the source from 1080p to 2160p . Especial with some old movies in 1080p, sometime the color look so weird.


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> PS. @JereyWolf do you have Amazon Prime account? I just tested it by making subtitle font size the smallest and it doesn't seem to trigger this color shift. Could you test this?


I tested some different subtitle settings this morning on Prime, but the problem I ran into was that the subtitles were constantly on screen so the extra brightness on screen was unchanging. I went back to The Witch too did not see the same color shifting that I recorded previously, I also tested The Witch immediately after the 2012 firmware update also saw that the effect had disappeared. But the color shifting is definitely still happening, depending on the content.
It's not only caused by subtitles, but those are just an easy trigger to use. I think it's dependent on the overall frame light level. The yellow subtitles in Avatar, do not trigger a color shift that I've ever seen.

Here is a GIF from a video I recorded this morning. In this GIF, if you pay attention to the right side of the wall, by the plants you can see a change in brightness. In person, this looks more like a change in color. In the full video linked below I can see this effect happening when the subtitles flash on and off. The other interesting thing is that the color shifting does not happen when watching the same video in a smaller window, such as the standard viewing window in a web browser. I only see it happen when watching in full screen. 









LInk to Full Video


----------



## avsenthusiast

justbenice said:


> @avsscientist
> Do you remember the problem that this LSP9T doesn't auto change the color format even we set it Auto ? I do see some funny skin color tone sometime, because the projector doesn't auto change the format between Rec.709, DCI-P3, and Rec.2020. So sometime i have to manual change it eveytime i change the source from 1080p to 2160p . Especial with some old movies in 1080p, sometime the color look so weird.


Good point, I have tried using Auto, Native, and all other color spaces, nothing stops the color shift from happening.


----------



## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> I tested some different subtitle settings this morning on Prime, but the problem I ran into was that the subtitles were constantly on screen so the extra brightness on screen was unchanging. I went back to The Witch too did not see the same color shifting that I recorded previously, I also tested The Witch immediately after the 2012 firmware update also saw that the effect had disappeared.


When did you update to 2012 firmware? My LSP9T was on 2012 right out of the box so I couldn't capture any comparisons.



JereyWolf said:


> But the color shifting is definitely still happening, depending on the content.


Try some "darker" content without bright highlights, eg. dialog inside an evenly lit room and two people talking to each other on screen, I counted about 14 times of color shift within a 2-min clip of _Virgin River. _Brutal.



JereyWolf said:


> It's not only caused by subtitles, but those are just an easy trigger to use.


If the color/contrast shift is also triggered by menu/OSD, I can't see it especially the _Settings Menu _covers up almost 75-80% of the screen obscuring the content behind it.



JereyWolf said:


> I think it's dependent on the overall frame light level.


This I have observed. Basically f there are enough "highlight areas" in the scene, eg. blown-out windows, the subtitles don't trigger a color/contrast shift.



JereyWolf said:


> The yellow subtitles in Avatar, do not trigger a color shift that I've ever seen.


I haven't tested different subtitles colors yet but I can guess why.



JereyWolf said:


> ...The other interesting thing is that the color shifting does not happen when watching the same video in a smaller window, such as the standard viewing window in a web browser. I only see it happen when watching in full screen.


Yes the color shift occurs only if subtitle texts are big and wide enough to trigger the shift.

Here are my conclusions:

1. For Netflix, the threshold for subtitle texts to trigger color shift is roughly about half the width of the screen (could be less, this is by estimation, I haven't used a tape measure yet).

2. This means, if subtitles are shorter than half the width of screen, shifts won't happen, PERIOD.

3. Once subtitles texts EXCEED half the width (or less) of the screen, then consistently without fail color, shifts will occur.

4. The only situations where subtitle texts would not trigger color shifts and the color shifts are suppressed is when they exceed half the width (or less) of the screen, but there are huge patches of super bright areas in other parts of the screen.

5. Apps like Prime can create super tiny subtitles so I don't know if it's the tininess or the lack of width that don't seem to trigger color shifts like Netflix does.

6. 4K HDR shows on Netflix are the worst offenders when subtitle is turned on because the subtitle size is HUGE and cannot be adjusted like Prime. This is the same on both external apps or native apps so defective sources can be ruled out.

7. If you are watching a Nature show, you notice the foliage keeps shifting colors. If you are watching a quiet drama with lots of dialog, people will shift from wearing more makeup and less makeup constantly, very distracting and for me, it's at the level of annoying.

8. Changing color spaces to Auto or a specific one does NOT make a difference. All the above conditions will trigger color shifts.

9. Changing color saturation does NOT make a difference. All the above conditions will trigger color shifts. 

10. Making 2-point white balance adjustments does NOT make a difference. All the above conditions will trigger color shifts.

The ONLY thing I can hope for right now is manufacturing defect on isolated/selected units, and this is not a wide spread issue. Maybe @JereyWolf you, me and the Italian magazine reviewer guy are the only 3 unlucky ones with this issue, in this case at least there is a chance a different unit or service center will be able to fix this.

Can other owners on this thread confirm the existence of this issue on your unit? Your input will provide an indication whether this is due to design flaw or just isolated incidents limited to defective units.


----------



## justbenice

avsscientist said:


> Can other owners on this thread confirm the existence of this issue on your unit? Your input will provide an indication whether this is due to design flaw or just isolated incidents limited to defective units.


Unless you guys have a Samsung recommend screen or at least a real Ultra Short Throw Projector Screens, otherwise this is useless. I acttualy din't see much complains about this projector arround. 

For Samsung US :









Trying to use a wrong screen for a UST projector then asking Samsung for this or that are not right!


----------



## avsenthusiast

justbenice said:


> For Samsung US :
> View attachment 3160498
> 
> 
> Trying to use a wrong screen for a UST projector then asking Samsung for this or that are not right!


Thanks for sharing the screenshot of Samsung recommended screens, this is a great find.

But with so many models of screen made by each manufacturer, it is a bit lazy for Samsung a multi-billion company to list the company names but not specific models.

Also to set record straight, what @JereyWolf and I are discussing in the last few posts have NOTHING to do with screens, it’s a Samsung LSP9T issue,.


----------



## justbenice

avsscientist said:


> Thanks for sharing the screenshot of Samsung recommended screens, this is a great find.
> 
> But with so many models of screen made by each manufacturer, it is a bit lazy for Samsung a multi-billion company to list the company names but not specific models.
> 
> Also to set record straight, what @JereyWolf and I are discussing in the last few posts have NOTHING to do with screens, it’s a Samsung LSP9T issue,.


My friends, i think you are going to a worng way by reading some review of someone, that "someone" also just someone like us and they can do right or wrong depend on what they like !
As i said, this is UST projector, so you at least to have a UST screen (cheap or expensive that depend on your wallet) before complain about the projector ! There are alot of UST screen that list and you can choice what you want. The Samsung site recommend some of it as i think it use best for Samsung.


----------



## JereyWolf

justbenice said:


> My friends, i think you are going to a worng way by reading some review of someone, that "someone" also just someone like us and they can do right or wrong depend on what they like !
> As i said, this is UST projector, so you at least to have a UST screen (cheap or expensive that depend on your wallet) before complain about the projector ! There are alot of UST screen that list and you can choice what you want. The Samsung site recommend some of it as i think it use best for Samsung.


Are you able to clarify what you mean?
I am using a UST screen just FYI.


----------



## avsenthusiast

@JereyWolf I take it that since you've owned LSP9T for quite some time, and posted your observation of the color shift months before I purchased mine, you haven't been able to find a workaround? 

I've had some time over the weekend to exhaust and toggle every setting I could find, I simply could not stop the color shift from going away, especially wiht Netflix 4K HDR content. 

My local Samsung rep wants to send their "top-tier" technician to my house to see in-person. Aside from this color shift issue, do you have anything else that you would like me to ask the Samsung technician about?


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> @JereyWolf I take it that since you've owned LSP9T for quite some time, and posted your observation of the color shift months before I purchased mine, you haven't been able to find a workaround?
> 
> I've had some time over the weekend to exhaust and toggle every setting I could find, I simply could not stop the color shift from going away, especially wiht Netflix 4K HDR content.
> 
> My local Samsung rep wants to send their "top-tier" technician to my house to see in-person. Aside from this color shift issue, do you have anything else that you would like me to ask the Samsung technician about?


You're correct, I think I've tried tried every combination of picture settings and not been able to eliminate it.

The other minor annoyance I have is the speckle. I think it's worth it to ask about that....see if they are working on anything to reduce that.

Also...the behavior of the contrast slider. Above 40 it has a strong effect on white balance, Is this a bug?

Can you also ask for clarification on what the "Auto" color space option does.... because I have verified through measurements that it does not just automatically choose one of the other color space options.


----------



## Cremer Lee

Sharing one vidoe for
*Samsung Premiere LSP9T UST Projector on 100inch ALR Fresnel*


----------



## Macho9556

Why cant I passthrough the audio on the lsp9t? I have HDR10+ files on a usb. The projector plays the files and info says that it is indeed a HDR10+ but the audio is Atmos. I go into the settings and the passthrough option is grayed out.


----------



## avsenthusiast

Final Update:

After a few weeks using LSP9T and testing, my only advice for anyone who is even considering this is, DO NOT BUY.

Unless you are not subject to, or unable to notice, the color shifts that occur during content viewing when subtitles are turned on.

Apps like Amazon Prime is not prone to this issue, but apps like Netflix and others do not have size controls for its subtitles, the subtitles WILL trigger color shifts whenever they appear and the projector image only returns to normal after subtitles go away.

In my years of owning, watching, viewing devices from tubes, LCD, plasma, notebook screen, desktop LCD screen, phone screen, OLED screens, and heck, even those portable DVD players, I have NEVER experienced a display device that would shift colors due to on-screen subtitles.

For Samsung to release a projector like this in 2020/2021 and not acknowledging this defect, it's pretty appalling. Unless of course the defect is limited to only a specific batch of production or units due to poor quality control. 

But since this issue has been well-documented by @JereyWolf and professional reviewers, I think it might be more widespread that we think.


----------



## sollyemmy

sollyemmy said:


> Yes - I saw that note as well but i was told to get the insurance for it in a similar way.
> 
> Did you send your unit in for repair and if so was the repair satisfactory?
> 
> I will call the NJ Service Center today and hopefully talk to them and get more insight.


I sent my unit in 2 weeks ago and they said they need parts to get that repaired but then they said it cannot be repaired today and said they will send me a newer unit in the next 15 days once the case is closed or updated. The rep did mention that it will be a newer unit with the updated lens cap/ cover. I will update once i get the unit. The customer service is pretty bad, lot of call forwards to different departments and lot of disconnects and many reps dont even know that Samsung has projectors. 

my other complaint is that the online repair tracking page doesnt work once the case status is closed leaving me totally blind of what the update is or what the resolution is. I had to call in to know what the update was and then i got a call back from the exchange and refund team about the replacement that will be sent. The CS department cannot forward calls to the exchange department because they cannot for some reason.


----------



## MDesigns

avsscientist said:


> Final Update:
> 
> After a few weeks using LSP9T and testing, my only advice for anyone who is even considering this is, DO NOT BUY.
> 
> Unless you are not subject to, or unable to notice, the color shifts that occur during content viewing when subtitles are turned on.
> 
> Apps like Amazon Prime is not prone to this issue, but apps like Netflix and others do not have size controls for its subtitles, the subtitles WILL trigger color shifts whenever they appear and the projector image only returns to normal after subtitles go away.
> 
> In my years of owning, watching, viewing devices from tubes, LCD, plasma, notebook screen, desktop LCD screen, phone screen, OLED screens, and heck, even those portable DVD players, I have NEVER experienced a display device that would shift colors due to on-screen subtitles.
> 
> For Samsung to release a projector like this in 2020/2021 and not acknowledging this defect, it's pretty appalling. Unless of course the defect is limited to only a specific batch of production or units due to poor quality control.
> 
> But since this issue has been well-documented by @JereyWolf and professional reviewers, I think it might be more widespread that we think.


With Netflix you can change the size, color and transparency of the subs. I am using transparent yellow subs, since they are otherwise much too bright with HDR TV.


----------



## avsenthusiast

MDesigns said:


> With Netflix you can change the size, color and transparency of the subs. I am using transparent yellow subs, since they are otherwise much too bright with HDR TV.


@MDesigns you are a lifesaver! 

It turns out if you login to Netflix ONLINE, there is a section under ACCOUNT > PROFILE > SUBTITLE APPEARANCE, you can change the font size, font color and even the background window color. 

Reducing the text size to smallest and adding a semi-transparent black window seem to have permanently bypasses this color shift problem! 

Thanks for the tip! 

For anyone who wants to try this trick, make sure on your Netflix APP, navigate to Get Help > Reload Netflix, otherwise the new settings saved on the web browser will not be reflected on the app. 

PS. @JereyWolf now that I have calibrated the projector, I can easily see that any menu, including the projector’s own menu, not just Netflix menu, will trigger a color shift, which is why the reviewer said calibrating is such a pain. At least this subtitle hack seems to work on Netflix and Prime, have you tried this?


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> @MDesigns you are a lifesaver!
> 
> It turns out if you login to Netflix ONLINE, there is a section under ACCOUNT > PROFILE > SUBTITLE APPEARANCE, you can change the font size, font color and even the background window color.
> 
> Reducing the text size to smallest and adding a semi-transparent black window seem to have permanently bypasses this color shift problem!
> 
> Thanks for the tip!
> 
> For anyone who wants to try this trick, make sure on your Netflix APP, navigate to Get Help > Reload Netflix, otherwise the new settings saved on the web browser will not be reflected on the app.
> 
> PS. @JereyWolf now that I have calibrated the projector, I can easily see that any menu, including the projector’s own menu, not just Netflix menu, will trigger a color shift, which is why the reviewer said calibrating is such a pain. At least this subtitle hack seems to work on Netflix and Prime, have you tried this?


I haven't tried that. It's pretty rare for me to watch with subtitles. Most of the subtitles that I encounter are directly in the video through YouTube. 
I see it happen with other non-subtitle stuff most often. 
The color shifting is probably my biggest gripe about the projector, but it's not a major concern for me. My wife usually doesn't notice it unless I rewind and point it out. For me, this small annoyance is totally worth the trade off for the rest of the benefits I get with the projector.


----------



## justbenice

sollyemmy said:


> I sent my unit in 2 weeks ago and they said they need parts to get that repaired but then they said it cannot be repaired today and said they will send me a newer unit in the next 15 days once the case is closed or updated. The rep did mention that it will be a newer unit with the updated lens cap/ cover. I will update once i get the unit. The customer service is pretty bad, lot of call forwards to different departments and lot of disconnects and many reps dont even know that Samsung has projectors.
> 
> my other complaint is that the online repair tracking page doesnt work once the case status is closed leaving me totally blind of what the update is or what the resolution is. I had to call in to know what the update was and then i got a call back from the exchange and refund team about the replacement that will be sent. The CS department cannot forward calls to the exchange department because they cannot for some reason.


Great to hear about "newer unit with the updated lens cap/ cover" , please update news about this when you get the replacement one!


----------



## sp00ky

sollyemmy said:


> The rep did mention that it will be a newer unit with the updated lens cap/ cover.


Are you aware what the differences are with the updated cover?


----------



## sollyemmy

sp00ky said:


> Are you aware what the differences are with the updated cover?


No Idea but more information on page 65 after post 1289









Official Samsung "Premiere" LSP9T Owners Thread


You should try to place your projector exactly like the manual. Then using focus menu of the LSP9T to adjust the best focus between 2 side of the screen. If you can't make it focus then your projector got problem, you should send it back to warrany. It look like the LSP9T have bad quality...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> ...Most of the subtitles that I encounter are directly in the video through YouTube.
> I see it happen with other non-subtitle stuff most often.
> The color shifting is probably my biggest gripe about the projector...


Now that my projector is calibrated and I have finally prevented subtitles from triggering color shifts, the irony is, I am noticing all kinds of "non-subtitles stuff" like app menus, logos and on-screen overlays triggering it.

Even in scenes where there are big patches of white against a primarily darker image, the color shifts will occur too, and you will notice the most difference in skin tones but it's obvious in foliage too.

Samsung really needs to improve on this projector, either via firmware or maybe they have already done so in later production units, just not saying anything because users don't notice? In the meantime, I am still waiting for the technician to come and see if what positions Samsung takes.

It does seem like others who have issues are getting brand new replacement units, I wonder if this issue is gone in recent production models?


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> Now that my projector is calibrated and I have finally prevented subtitles from triggering color shifts, the irony is, I am noticing all kinds of "non-subtitles stuff" like app menus, logos and on-screen overlays triggering it.
> 
> Even in scenes where there are big patches of white against a primarily darker image, the color shifts will occur too, and you will notice the most difference in skin tones but it's obvious in foliage too.
> 
> Samsung really needs to improve on this projector, either via firmware or maybe they have already done so in later production units, just not saying anything because users don't notice? In the meantime, I am still waiting for the technician to come and see if what positions Samsung takes.
> 
> It does seem like others who have issues are getting brand new replacement units, I wonder if this issue is gone in recent production models?


When is the technician scheduled to check out your unit?


----------



## oni222

I am looking to upgrade from my Xiaomi 4k ust to this projector but I am concerned on one thing.
Since this projector is not rated for 150" and my current screen/setup is for 150" has anybody used this projector at that size?
I do not care about losing brightness but I do care about any potential out of focus image or distortions.


----------



## sollyemmy

sollyemmy said:


> I sent my unit in 2 weeks ago and they said they need parts to get that repaired but then they said it cannot be repaired today and said they will send me a newer unit in the next 15 days once the case is closed or updated. The rep did mention that it will be a newer unit with the updated lens cap/ cover. I will update once i get the unit. The customer service is pretty bad, lot of call forwards to different departments and lot of disconnects and many reps dont even know that Samsung has projectors.
> 
> my other complaint is that the online repair tracking page doesnt work once the case status is closed leaving me totally blind of what the update is or what the resolution is. I had to call in to know what the update was and then i got a call back from the exchange and refund team about the replacement that will be sent. The CS department cannot forward calls to the exchange department because they cannot for some reason.


Update (more of a rant/ venting): I called in this morning again as i not received any communication in the last 4 days and i was told as per the notes that the "EXCHANGE" department was trying to reach me for a few days to confirm somethings but i have not received a single call/ email from Samsung. The rep again assured me that they cannot transfer me to the "EXCHANGE" department and noted to have them call me back in the next few hours as he updated his supervisor.

I called in again as its the end of the day and i havent received any call yet from the so called "EXCHANGE" department and this time i adamantly asked for the team and somehow after a couple of transfers i ended up with the "EXCHANGE" department and the rep told me a few things that did not corelate with my previous calls. He said that the approval was done on 08/17 but they have some "INTERNAL" paperwork/ process before they can send me the paperwork/ unit/ email or something viable, so its nothing from my end but are waiting for "THEIR" internal process to get completed before they send a new unit out. This may take 7 to 10 business days and assured me that there is no direct number for me to contact them. 

The bizarre thing is that he mentioned that the "EXCHANGE" department did not try to contact me at all in the last 5 days and the other rep may have given me information of other user/ service request. So yeah i may get my new projector unit after a month or so or maybe before that because the exchange works differently as per the rep and he gave me some practical timelines as to how long the process takes. i am ok with all that as long as i have a concrete timeline and some sort of communication but so far all i have received are pretty vague dates and timelines. i will probably wait till next Friday and see if there's any sort of communication.


----------



## redcrow240

Just got mine today. Went through startup, saw a few seconds of video then all of a sudden said “Samsungtv plus is not available due to network problem. Check your network connection and try again” But now the remote doesn’t work and I can’t click on the option below the message that says “network status”. The remote just blinks. If I click a button other than power it says “not available” on the screen. Ideas? I’ve connected it via Ethernet and nothing because I can’t set it up due to the remote not being paired it seems. I can’t click anything or pair it. The button in the back of projector doesn’t do much other than power it and a few other things (volume, source. This thing is 20 minutes on since unpacking and I’m dead in the water. Any help would be appreciated. I would love to figure out how to factory reset but how if there’s only one button in the projector?


----------



## bennutt

redcrow240 said:


> Just got mine today. Went through startup, saw a few seconds of video then all of a sudden said “Samsungtv plus is not available due to network problem. Check your network connection and try again” But now the remote doesn’t work and I can’t click on the option below the message that says “network status”. The remote just blinks. If I click a button other than power it says “not available” on the screen. Ideas? I’ve connected it via Ethernet and nothing because I can’t set it up due to the remote not being paired it seems. I can’t click anything or pair it. The button in the back of projector doesn’t do much other than power it and a few other things (volume, source. This thing is 20 minutes on since unpacking and I’m dead in the water. Any help would be appreciated. I would love to figure out how to factory reset but how if there’s only one button in the projector?


You don’t mention force pairing the remote, so I’ll offer that as a possible solution (after checking batteries)











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## redcrow240

Thanks Bennut. I had tried new batteries just in case and what you provided above but no luck. I did see a quick message one time out of the 50 attempts I made where it mentioned already being paired to another remote. I also got some 1003 channel on the top right and . must’ve confused it or something who knows. But it went back to the network message But when I press the remote keys they register because I see the light on the projector speaker grille flicker. Also when I press the power button it turns off the projector. Everything else I cannot do because it says “not available”. Can’t see the Home Screen or picture options etc etc just the network error message. Does the remote work via wifi only or something?
I would really love to figure out how to factory reset and start from scratch. Maybe during set up is the only way to repair and fix the network stuff?


----------



## sollyemmy

sollyemmy said:


> Update (more of a rant/ venting): I called in this morning again as i not received any communication in the last 4 days and i was told as per the notes that the "EXCHANGE" department was trying to reach me for a few days to confirm somethings but i have not received a single call/ email from Samsung. The rep again assured me that they cannot transfer me to the "EXCHANGE" department and noted to have them call me back in the next few hours as he updated his supervisor.
> 
> I called in again as its the end of the day and i havent received any call yet from the so called "EXCHANGE" department and this time i adamantly asked for the team and somehow after a couple of transfers i ended up with the "EXCHANGE" department and the rep told me a few things that did not corelate with my previous calls. He said that the approval was done on 08/17 but they have some "INTERNAL" paperwork/ process before they can send me the paperwork/ unit/ email or something viable, so its nothing from my end but are waiting for "THEIR" internal process to get completed before they send a new unit out. This may take 7 to 10 business days and assured me that there is no direct number for me to contact them.
> 
> The bizarre thing is that he mentioned that the "EXCHANGE" department did not try to contact me at all in the last 5 days and the other rep may have given me information of other user/ service request. So yeah i may get my new projector unit after a month or so or maybe before that because the exchange works differently as per the rep and he gave me some practical timelines as to how long the process takes. i am ok with all that as long as i have a concrete timeline and some sort of communication but so far all i have received are pretty vague dates and timelines. i will probably wait till next Friday and see if there's any sort of communication.


Update - I got the projector today and initial thought is that this is a newer unit with the black lens cover. I just turned it on to see if there is still any issue with the edge blue blur that i had with the earlier unit and it wasnt so that is a plus. i will setup the projector this weekend and see if everything else runs smoothly. Can someone point me to some calibration settings just for the projector? i forgot where they were in this thread. i thought i saved them but i couldnt find any yet.


----------



## JereyWolf

sollyemmy said:


> Update - I got the projector today and initial thought is that this is a newer unit with the black lens cover. I just turned it on to see if there is still any issue with the edge blue blur that i had with the earlier unit and it wasnt so that is a plus. i will setup the projector this weekend and see if everything else runs smoothly. Can someone point me to some calibration settings just for the projector? i forgot where they were in this thread. i thought i saved them but i couldnt find any yet.


I'm glad to hear you got it back in working condition! How long did it end up taking?

After Jue Liang's very thorough review and documentation of calibration in post #727, these setting were posted:



Jue Liang said:


> My settings:
> Contrast=35, color temp=warm 2
> 2 point adjustment R gain= -12, G gain=1, B gain=7, R offset=0, G offset=0, B offset=-3
> 
> But please keep in mind that the calibration settings depends on a lot things like sample variation and screen type. My settings may not be the best for your set up.


Those settings might be a good starting point. If you have the means to take your own measurements that would give you the best results.


----------



## sollyemmy

JereyWolf said:


> I'm glad to hear you got it back in working condition! How long did it end up taking?
> 
> After Jue Liang's very thorough review and documentation of calibration in post #727, these setting were posted:
> 
> 
> 
> Those settings might be a good starting point. If you have the means to take your own measurements that would give you the best results.



It took me exactly 30 days from sending my unit in to receiving my unit back again. I just noticed that the packaging box is different from the first time i received it. 

Thanks for the settings. appreciate it. i will save them as well for future references.


----------



## Cleveland Plasma

redcrow240 said:


> Thanks Bennut. I had tried new batteries just in case and what you provided above but no luck. I did see a quick message one time out of the 50 attempts I made where it mentioned already being paired to another remote. I also got some 1003 channel on the top right and . must’ve confused it or something who knows. But it went back to the network message But when I press the remote keys they register because I see the light on the projector speaker grille flicker. Also when I press the power button it turns off the projector. Everything else I cannot do because it says “not available”. Can’t see the Home Screen or picture options etc etc just the network error message. Does the remote work via wifi only or something?
> I would really love to figure out how to factory reset and start from scratch. Maybe during set up is the only way to repair and fix the network stuff?


Did you do a hard reset/unplug the unit? Did you call Samsung for tech support?

Usually there is a way to do a factory reset from scratch.


----------



## redcrow240

Took batteries out of remote and held its power button down. No luck. Went to back of projector and held its power button down. No luck. Unplugged unit for 15 hours. No luck. The projector turns on to the main screen for a few seconds and then Samsung tv plus app apparently auto opens and can’t connect to the network. I always land at that error message and throughout this whole process the remote is just blinking. I can turn the projector off with the remote. With projector off the remote is still blinking for a few minutes until it stops. If I press a button other than power the remote will start blinking. Called Samsung and they say there’s not a way to factory reset unless from menu (which I can’t access because remote doesn’t do anything!). Seems like a bad product design if you can’t factory restore without a remote. In any case they said they’re gonna ship me a new remote to see if that does the trick. If it doesn’t then they will send a tech out. Not too optimistic since it doesn’t answer the issue of the network message. So does the projector have two issues right out of the gate? (Remote not working and network not being detected). Maybe the Samsung app is also giving problems? I should know more when I get the new remote and will update the forum in case anyone else has a similar issue.


----------



## bennutt

redcrow240 said:


> Took batteries out of remote and held its power button down. No luck. Went to back of projector and held its power button down. No luck. Unplugged unit for 15 hours. No luck. The projector turns on to the main screen for a few seconds and then Samsung tv plus app apparently auto opens and can’t connect to the network. I always land at that error message and throughout this whole process the remote is just blinking. I can turn the projector off with the remote. With projector off the remote is still blinking for a few minutes until it stops. If I press a button other than power the remote will start blinking. Called Samsung and they say there’s not a way to factory reset unless from menu (which I can’t access because remote doesn’t do anything!). Seems like a bad product design if you can’t factory restore without a remote. In any case they said they’re gonna ship me a new remote to see if that does the trick. If it doesn’t then they will send a tech out. Not too optimistic since it doesn’t answer the issue of the network message. So does the projector have two issues right out of the gate? (Remote not working and network not being detected). Maybe the Samsung app is also giving problems? I should know more when I get the new remote and will update the forum in case anyone else has a similar issue.


One last thing… did you ever run a network cable to the projector?
I know you can’t reach WiFi- but a cable would connect it to internet where it might update/ get you further.

String a cable out to it or bring your projector close enough to the router for a direct connection.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## redcrow240

Thanks again bennut. Yes I tried that as well. When I plug directly into the Ethernet port I get a message on the top right asking what I assume is to use it or something to that effect, with an”yes” or “no” option underneath it. Of course with the remote blinking I cannot select anything and eventually the message times out and goes away leaving the main network error message in the middle of the screen.


----------



## Kisby

Can you connect the "smart things" app?


----------



## redcrow240

Hello Kisby, 

Projector doesn’t show up in the app. I guess I’m stuck waiting for a replacement remote first. Should be here by Friday. Will keep you guys posted. Thanks to all for the troubleshooting efforts. Let me know if any other ideas to try come up.


----------



## am2model3

i have been using the apple screen mirroring on my lsp9t; it works easy fast and great! fun to see your iphone or ipad photos, videos on the big screen; and playing ios games is also fun! also works well on other samsung 4k tvs; cool feature!


----------



## redcrow240

Well no luck guys  . Different remote, same results. Also, projector isn’t displayed as an airplay device or a Bluetooth device you can cast to. Safe to assume I’m gonna need a tech visit or some type of exchange to occur. Sad night but hopefully it resolves with a bit of patience and time. I’ll chime with updates.

ps- what do you guys think of the new elite screens clr3 in 115 inches? Would it be a good match for this projector?


----------



## justbenice

am2model3 said:


> i have been using the apple screen mirroring on my lsp9t; it works easy fast and great! fun to see your iphone or ipad photos, videos on the big screen; and playing ios games is also fun! also works well on other samsung 4k tvs; cool feature!


Same to me. I couldn't use apple screen mirroring from my ipad to lsp9t and only can use "smart thing" to mirror my android phone to the lsp9t.


----------



## Macho9556

avsscientist said:


> *@Samsung, please give us 3D on LSP9T*
> 
> Please  this post so we can send a strong message that Samsung should add 3D via a firmware update to this premium model.
> 
> With a high number of votes Samsung may do something


Would be nice if they did. Idk why companies are omitting 3D. I can understand 3D on a 55 or 60 inch TV, but 3D on a 120"+ screen?!?! Especially on this projector?!?! That is the main reason I haven't updated my Optoma CinemaX Pro yet. When LG's UST came out I was dead on ready to upgrade, but then I found out about the lack of support for 3D so I passed. I was keeping my fingers crossed when I first heard of the Premier 9T, but again I guess I'll pass and keep on waiting. The 9T would of been the perfect UST to have 3D with all of its bells and whistles and color accuracy and brightness with triple lasers. But O'well. I guess I'll just be keeping my CinemaX Pro for a while longer


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## Miniswede

Hello! 

I have just bought the LSP9T, and my firmeware is 1409. I have downloaded the 2020 firmware from samsungs homepage (my lsp9t cant find it when i search for it on the lsp9t). Download it to my USB (ntfs). unzip. then put it in the back of the lsp9t, go to update,click yes on "search usb". but get the message that there is no update (like one sec after i allow to search the usb). Why does not the lsp9t update to 2020? What do i do wrong?


----------



## JereyWolf

Miniswede said:


> Hello!
> 
> I have just bought the LSP9T, and my firmeware is 1409. I have downloaded the 2020 firmware from samsungs homepage (my lsp9t cant find it when i search for it on the lsp9t). Download it to my USB (ntfs). unzip. then put it in the back of the lsp9t, go to update,click yes on "search usb". but get the message that there is no update (like one sec after i allow to search the usb). Why does not the lsp9t update to 2020? What do i do wrong?


I think that firmware might be region specific. When I first read about firmware 2012.1 availability from other people here on the forum, I tried to install it through the auto update, that gave me the message "no available update". Next I went to the Samsung US website which only showed the firmware version I already had installed (1402 I think). I then went to various regional Samsung sites and found firmware 2012.1 available in many places. I downloaded and attempted to install 5 of them, they all failed.

I was only able to install new firmware when it was officially released and came through the auto update. Afterwards I checked the Samsung US website again and it showed version 2012.1. All of this leads me to believe that firmware is released for specific regions. 

I checked LSP9T The Premiere Smart 4K UHD Ultra-short throw Triple laser projector | Samsung Support Sverige ; this shows firmware version 1402 as the latest available.


----------



## Miniswede

JereyWolf said:


> I think that firmware might be region specific. When I first read about firmware 2012.1 availability from other people here on the forum, I tried to install it through the auto update, that gave me the message "no available update". Next I went to the Samsung US website which only showed the firmware version I already had installed (1402 I think). I then went to various regional Samsung sites and found firmware 2012.1 available in many places. I downloaded and attempted to install 5 of them, they all failed.
> 
> I was only able to install new firmware when it was officially released and came through the auto update. Afterwards I checked the Samsung US website again and it showed version 2012.1. All of this leads me to believe that firmware is released for specific regions.
> 
> I checked LSP9T The Premiere Smart 4K UHD Ultra-short throw Triple laser projector | Samsung Support Sverige ; this shows firmware version 1402 as the latest available.


that explains a lot! thank you so much! I tried like 15 times and went nut hehe

Fingers crossed that europe will get the 2021 soon, over a month have passed since US got it, so we wont be stuck at 1402


----------



## Tamahome13

I haven’t found the answer online or in the manual yet, so I’m hoping someone here can solve this.

We purchased the LSP9T a few weeks ago - love the picture quality, but the sound was lacking, so we bought a Sonos Arc soundbar. We hooked the soundbar to HDMI 1, and it recognizes it ok and sounds great for Dolby movies.

However, when we turn off the Samsung and soundbar, instead of a solid red light on the projector, we get a blinking red light every 3 seconds or so. If I unplug the HDMI-1 cable from the projector connected to the Sonos, the blinking stops.

Does anyone know what the blinking red light means??


----------



## JereyWolf

Miniswede said:


> that explains a lot! thank you so much! I tried like 15 times and went nut hehe
> 
> Fingers crossed that europe will get the 2021 soon, over a month have passed since US got it, so we wont be stuck at 1402


Just to alleviate some of the anticipation, I don't remember there being any noticeable image quality difference with firmware 2012.1. Firmware 1402 was the release that had a much more significant impact.


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## JereyWolf

If anyone has the time to check something out on their projector, please watch a few seconds of this video starting at 1:59. YouTube video showing the effect
*The video must be viewed in full screen.*

The attached GIF is a very clear example of the darkening/white balance shifting effect that happens for me (it's the most annoying thing about this projector), the slight zoom is due to my camera's auto focus but the camera's white balance is fixed. I'd really like to know whether it's a "feature" that's on all of our units....or a bug with my specific unit.


----------



## justbenice

JereyWolf said:


> If anyone has the time to check something out on their projector, please watch a few seconds of this video starting at 1:59. YouTube video showing the effect
> *The video must be viewed in full screen.*
> 
> The attached GIF is a very clear example of the darkening/white balance shifting effect that happens for me (it's the most annoying thing about this projector), the slight zoom is due to my camera's auto focus but the camera's white balance is fixed. I'd really like to know whether it's a "feature" that's on all of our units....or a bug with my specific unit.
> 
> View attachment 3174683


Please see my test of that video. I think my LSP9T don't have this problems:


----------



## ProjectionHead

R8tedm3 said:


> I sold my first one, returned the 2nd one, and re-purchased it again last month. This newer unit (production shows May/2021) is day and night compared to my last ones. No speckle, whisper-quiet, no rainbow effect, no flickering, and basically as perfect as it gets.


I think that you just got the luck of the draw on the new unit (and bad luck on your earlier ones). I reached out to Samsung about your experience specifically and they stated that _"no changes were made to the components" _in relation to units made in May compared to prior production runs.


----------



## justbenice

ProjectionHead said:


> I think that you just got the luck of the draw on the new unit (and bad luck on your earlier ones). I reached out to Samsung about your experience specifically and they stated that _"no changes were made to the components" _in relation to units made in May compared to prior production runs.


I think the problems lay in the lens quality. I am a photographers and i know that even some Carl Zeiss camera lens cost arround 2000usd also have a quality control problems. My Zeiss 50F1.4 is soft and my Zeiss 35F1.4 had aberrations problems.


----------



## Gugu_s

JereyWolf said:


> If anyone has the time to check something out on their projector, please watch a few seconds of this video starting at 1:59. YouTube video showing the effect
> *The video must be viewed in full screen.*
> 
> The attached GIF is a very clear example of the darkening/white balance shifting effect that happens for me (it's the most annoying thing about this projector), the slight zoom is due to my camera's auto focus but the camera's white balance is fixed. I'd really like to know whether it's a "feature" that's on all of our units....or a bug with my specific unit.
> 
> View attachment 3174683


Hi,

I read a lot about this problem, and didn’t want to buy this projector, because of this issue.
After a while, I read a post by someone, that there is a setting in the expert picture settings called colour space, and the projector does this when it is set on Auto, but if you change it to normal, or native, this issue dissapears.

I hope this helps you out.


----------



## Mikenificent1

ProjectionHead said:


> I think that you just got the luck of the draw on the new unit (and bad luck on your earlier ones). I reached out to Samsung about your experience specifically and they stated that _"no changes were made to the components" _in relation to units made in May compared to prior production runs.


Could you ask them when they will? Lol Also ask them to include laser dimming for better black levels and a faster cycling of the lasers for no rainbows. LSP10T Perhaps? They could have such a killer PJ if they just tweaked it a little.


----------



## Miniswede

Is there a new model around the corner prehaps? The LSP9T usually cost around 55 000 to 65 000 sek in sweden (5500 - 6500 eur / 6400 - 7400 USD). Today every store in sweden have a discount for the LSP9T and sell it for 35 000 sek around 36-45% of (3500 EUR / 4000 USD), some of it even give you a galaxy watch 4 (40mm) included. The LSP7T cost around 25 000 sek in sweden, so just 10 000 sek (1 000 eur / 1150 USD) difference now between the premium LSP9T and the regular LSP7T. Is it a indication that it will be replaced soon? is it the same in other countries?

I recently bought it and will get the difference (20 000 sek) back. so i think it is a very good price for this projector anyway (i know it can sound a lot for some of you, but sweden got HIGH taxes on this stuff so that why we usually pay alot more thatn eg. US).


----------



## jmg999

Miniswede said:


> Is there a new model around the corner prehaps?


*Indeed very strange with maintained prices in US and UK while massive 36% price cuts for the LSP9T across all stores in Sweden today.* The LSP9T now sells for 35k SEK (4k USD) which is similar to the LSP7T yesterday...

Even with a possible new model around the corner, why start cutting prices before product launch and why in Sweden before the US and UK? To me, the only plausable reason is they hardly sold any ust units in Sweden and want out from the tiny Swedish ust market.

_My current UHZ65UST (P1) has spent the last 4 months -and still counting- in Optoma service center for repair. Ridiculous and I requested a full refund from my home entertainment store who agree but claim their hands are tied until Optoma awakens and break radio silence. Last Friday, after yet another week and deadline without progress I finally offered to buy the LSP9T if my store credited my UHZ65UST to be done with this everlasting mess but they still claimed we had to wait for Optoma to respond. Three days later I'm pretty happy they turned my offer down saving me 2k USD. _


----------



## Mikenificent1

jmg999 said:


> *Indeed very strange with maintained prices in US and UK while massive 36% price cuts for the LSP9T across all stores in Sweden today.* The LSP9T now sells for 35k SEK (4k USD) which is similar to the LSP7T yesterday...
> 
> Even with a possible new model around the corner, why start cutting prices before product launch and why in Sweden before the US and UK? To me, the only plausable reason is they hardly sold any ust units in Sweden and want out from the tiny Swedish ust market.
> 
> _My current UHZ65UST (P1) has spent the last 4 months -and still counting- in Optoma service center for repair. Ridiculous and I requested a full refund from my home entertainment store who agree but claim their hands are tied until Optoma awakens and break radio silence. Last Friday, after yet another week and deadline without progress I finally offered to buy the LSP9T if my store credited my UHZ65UST to be done with this everlasting mess but they still claimed we had to wait for Optoma to respond. Three days later I'm pretty happy they turned my offer down saving me 2k USD. _


It has been a $1000 off MSRP for a while now in the US ($5499). Check Samsung.com


----------



## coug7669

Mikenificent1 said:


> It has been a $1000 off MSRP for a while now in the US ($5499). Check Samsung.com


much lower than that online at other websites. Google is your friend


----------



## jmg999

Ok, so it turns out Samsung are doing a Galaxy Lifestyle week in Scandinavia (Sweden, Denmark, Norway and Finland) promoting some of their products incl both LSP7T (about $2850) and LSP9T [about $4000).

Fantastic deals considering the LSP9T dropped from about $7400 (65k SEK) to about $6300 (55k SEK) just a few weeks ago here in Sweden before dropping to about $4000 (35k SEK) yesterday and that includes Swedish 25% VAT.


----------



## naperthrill

Ok, so switched to a 120 ALR screen but getting a ton of light around the screen. realized the samsung is too low/projector screen too high. don't want to lower the screen, so any good suggestions on raising up the projector. Any of you guys use any particular stand that is adjustable. Have an ikea media center that its sitting on top of, could put something on top of it to put the projector on that is adjustable.


----------



## am2model3

anyone use lsp9t on a regular projection screen? is the image passable? is it bad enough you have to have a fixed frame screen or tension screen? i'm going to test mine and see. Using it on the bedroom wall has been fun.


----------



## BatmanNewsChris

naperthrill said:


> Ok, so switched to a 120 ALR screen but getting a ton of light around the screen. realized the samsung is too low/projector screen too high. don't want to lower the screen, so any good suggestions on raising up the projector. Any of you guys use any particular stand that is adjustable. Have an ikea media center that its sitting on top of, could put something on top of it to put the projector on that is adjustable.


This might do the trick: https://amzn.to/2XMMQhN

You could use it without that extra shelf that it comes with. Vava has used something similar for their new projector in their promo videos.


----------



## Varun Kantamneni

Hey all! i have just purchased and setup my LSP9T in a very small 8 feet by 13 feet dedicated room. I have paired it with the EliteScreens CLR3 UST screen. Luckily, I am agnostic to the laser speckle and CA that has affected a lot of owners. The projector is amazing at punching out color. However I have run into some problems that have given me a slight headache and prevented me from enjoying it to the fullest. Let me know if y'all have solved these issues!
1) The projector is just too bright for my dark room. With the screen taking up the entire width of the room, whenever the scene shifts from a bright image to a darker one, it feels like a strobing effect that gives me headaches. Is there any way to reduce the brightness of the projector? I have been watching movies by turning on the lights in the room which dulls the colors for sure. Someone has suggested putting a special tape on the lens. Any suggestions here are super appreciated. 
2) I spent about 5 hours aligning the screen and the projector to no avail. Do we have a special order of setting this up to align with the screen? I setup my unit on a table and the bottom of my projector screen 14 inches from the top of the table. Made sure that the screen is perfectly level. Then rotated the projector around to get an image that aligns the top and bottom (Note couldn't perfectly align the top but close). Then twisted the bottom feet to make sure the vertical lines were vertical (Got very close again). Then went into the 15 point adjustment and the best I could do is leave about an inch at the top after good amount of keystone adjustments. I realize that my apartment floor might not be perpendicular to the wall and all. Is there a tool that helps in these situations like a table that can rise and lower to quickly adjust height and maybe tilt too! 
3) I fiddles with the focus menu and now I feel like I might have made a mistake and there was no way for me to reset it. On the apple TV app, the subtitles weren't 100% crisp. Is this to be expected from the projector? They were sharp but due to the size didnt feel perfectly crisp. Larger text in the menus was fine but subtitle size text has become a problem. How do we properly use the focus menu?.
4) Tizen OS seems a bit unresponsive. This isn't an issue but just making sure that my unit is alright. Sometimes, the menus take a few seconds to pop up and navigating has a one second lag.


----------



## JereyWolf

Varun Kantamneni said:


> 1) The projector is just too bright for my dark room. With the screen taking up the entire width of the room, whenever the scene shifts from a bright image to a darker one, it feels like a strobing effect that gives me headaches. Is there any way to reduce the brightness of the projector? I have been watching movies by turning on the lights in the room which dulls the colors for sure. Someone has suggested putting a special tape on the lens. Any suggestions here are super appreciated.


Switch to movie preset (or filmmaker), contrast around 40, contrast enhancer off, color temperature to warm 1 or warm 2 will also help. Play with gamma and shadow detail setting too. 
I wonder if the wall that your screen is secured to is not very flat and potentially causing you problems. 
You should be able to get back to the focus menu and obtain a reasonable focus in all 4 corners...assuming your screen is close to being flat.
Tizen is a bit slower than the android interface on my Shield, I think it's just something we have to deal with.


----------



## stpaulboy

Is anybody controlling this projector with the Ex-Link port or over a network (tcp/ip)? This would be nice for my automation setup, but so far I have no success. Mostly just need to turn the projector on and off - the receiver handles source switching and volume, etc...


----------



## djn2004

I’m having an issue with my projector. Turned it on and the screen was black with a few weird white spots. After a bunch of turning off and on and plugging and unplugging it finally came back on but there’s a black line across the screen. Almost like dead pixels. Tried resetting but that line is still there. Anyone have a similar issue?

I can either return it (still within the 100 day return window) or send it in for repair. Samsung is quoting end of October for a new one but suspect that’s better than sending it in for repair.

Here are a couple pics.


----------



## rigidz

LSP9T with Apple TV owners, what's your opinion on AppleTV with this projector? Did you notice any picture quality improvement compared to native apps?

Samsung supposed to Maintain source content frame rate & aspect ratio in Filmmaker mode , Did you notice any difference with Apple TV match frame rate option for 24p content?


----------



## avsenthusiast

Quick updates:

@JereyWolf I am still waiting for a date for a Samsung technician to come check out my unit with the color shift issue, but I guess due to COVID, they are running way behind
@justbenice the color shift issue is real, I deal with Photoshop and Lightroom on a daily basis, and have to perform hue, saturation and luminance corrections so I can tell when my LSP9T is shifting color when there is subtitle, OSD and/or bright scenes. I seriously hope this is a defect on some isolated units only because then at least there is hope to have it fixed or replaced with a unit that doesn't have this issue


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> Quick updates:
> 
> @JereyWolf I am still waiting for a date for a Samsung technician to come check out my unit with the color shift issue, but I guess due to COVID, they are running way behind
> @justbenice the color shift issue is real, I deal with Photoshop and Lightroom on a daily basis, and have to perform hue, saturation and luminance corrections so I can tell when my LSP9T is shifting color when there is subtitle, OSD and/or bright scenes. I seriously hope this is a defect on some isolated units only because then at least there is hope to have it fixed or replaced with a unit that doesn't have this issue


Thank you for the update!


----------



## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> Thank you for the update!


It's been some time since this thread talks about the "color rainbow/shimmer" issue on the Vividstorm S Pro ALR UST screen.

Are you noticing less of it now (maybe due to eye or visual adaptation) or is the phenomenon still pretty much the same as before?

I am thinking of getting it but concerned that it will introduce the rainbow/shimmer that I am not seeing now on my normal white gain 1.0 screen.


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> It's been some time since this thread talks about the "color rainbow/shimmer" issue on the Vividstorm S Pro ALR UST screen.
> 
> Are you noticing less of it now (maybe due to eye or visual adaptation) or is the phenomenon still pretty much the same as before?
> 
> I am thinking of getting it but concerned that it will introduce the rainbow/shimmer that I am not seeing now on my normal white gain 1.0 screen.


Honestly, I rarely notice it...until I start looking for it...or if I'm using my projector for browsing the forums here and there's a lot of single colors on the screen.


----------



## imbatman67

Hello everyone! I'm new to this forum and just purchased a Samsung LSP7T The Premiere projector. I use it with an Apple TV 4K and a Playstation 5. What are some of the best picture settings you recommend? Thanks in advance for your reply and hope you have a great week!


----------



## am2model3

"filmmaker mode" for your movies.


----------



## JereyWolf

imbatman67 said:


> Hello everyone! I'm new to this forum and just purchased a Samsung LSP7T The Premiere projector. I use it with an Apple TV 4K and a Playstation 5. What are some of the best picture settings you recommend? Thanks in advance for your reply and hope you have a great week!


The best place to start is just experimenting to see what you like. These are the settings I like on my 9T.

Movie preset
Contrast 41
sharpness 0 or up to 10
color 35
tint 0
picture clarity, judder reduction 3, noise reduction auto.
contrast enhancer off
color tone warm 2
shadow detail, -1, sometimes -2
color space Auto


----------



## imbatman67

JereyWolf said:


> The best place to start is just experimenting to see what you like. These are the settings I like on my 9T.
> 
> Movie preset
> Contrast 41
> sharpness 0 or up to 10
> color 35
> tint 0
> picture clarity, judder reduction 3, noise reduction auto.
> contrast enhancer off
> color tone warm 2
> shadow detail, -1, sometimes -2
> color space Auto


Sweet! Been trying a few settings, thank you so much for sharing yours!


----------



## Miniswede

JereyWolf said:


> Honestly, I rarely notice it...until I start looking for it...or if I'm using my projector for browsing the forums here and there's a lot of single colors on the screen.


Im also interesting in the s pro from vividstotm. I have totaly missed this! I have my lsp9t projecting on a white wall and doesnt suffer from any rainbowseffect or anything else. Am i going to get rainbowseffect and stuff when i get a vividstorm? Does the size of the screen make any difference? (i havn't decided if i will go with the 110 or 120 inch yet) would you say that it still worth it to have a vividstorm s pro even if you get more defects?


----------



## JereyWolf

Miniswede said:


> Im also interesting in the s pro from vividstotm. I have totaly missed this! I have my lsp9t projecting on a white wall and doesnt suffer from any rainbowseffect or anything else. Am i going to get rainbowseffect and stuff when i get a vividstorm? Does the size of the screen make any difference? (i havn't decided if i will go with the 110 or 120 inch yet) would you say that it still worth it to have a vividstorm s pro even if you get more defects?


Adding a screen may increase visible laser speckle, but should not have any impact on rainbow effect. I think the increased contrast that you will get from using a UST/ALR screen absolutely make it worth more visible speckle. .


----------



## jmg999

*Received my LSP9T last weekend.* Aligned it perfectly to a 100" ALR for almost no light bleed (difficult) and adjusted for good focus. Coming from an Optoma UHZ65UST (great image when ok but never going back due to all issues pinnacled by their service center keeping my unit for 4 months and still not being able to repair it) I was hoping the LSP9T would be the ultimate solution.

*However, extreme laser speckle/shimmer on larger bright areas (white/red being the worst).* Less but clearly noticable speckle even on white printer paper in front of my ALR screen. To make worse, no pop but much more dull image vs my old UHZ65UST calibrated for proper colors and realistic skin tones etc. Tried both movie and Filmmaker mode with/without tweaking but the entire image was covered with tiny gray "grain" (not due to the screen) as if optical impurity. On the good side, no noticable CA. RBE slightly more noticable vs my old UHZ65UST but not really an issue to me.

*So, as strange as it sounds, typically very dull image while at the same time extreme laser speckle and my wife complained she was seeing double when trying to read white text on black background.*

Having carefully read through all the 70 pages of this thread there is clearly a big LSP9T lottery going on. Some units are just "****" while others seem to be fantastic. Judging from my LSP9T the UHZ65UST (P1) image is by far superior which of course isn't true but rather it's the other way around as long as you don't get a ****ty unit. 

Couldn't stand the speckle and my store checked with another store who had the LSP9T on display but they confirmed similar speckle. *Neither myself or my store wanted to participate in any lottery sending units front and forward but instead we decided to return my LSP9T.* Such a shame as I had an amazing deal on it with almost 40% off during the Samsung Lifestyle week here. *Oh well, after almost 2 years I'm finally giving up on ust and instead buying a relatively small 85" TV *as my wife doesn't accept any traditional projector in our living room. *Such a shame...

All the best and i envy all of you having received good units to enjoy a fantastic image!*


----------



## humax

@ jmg999 .

You may want to reconsider and go for another rgb laser like the Vava Chroma or the Jmgo U2. These have the smaler 0.47" dmd, but offer better contrast than the Samsung and they are cheaper too . Check this video out after 5:38. You will get at least 100" and possibly the pop you are looking for.

(1) Samsung Premier LSP9T Tri-Color Laser Projector - YouTube


----------



## Dave Harper

jmg999 said:


> *Received my LSP9T last weekend.* Aligned it perfectly to a 100" ALR for almost no light bleed (difficult) and adjusted for good focus. Coming from an Optoma UHZ65UST (great image when ok but never going back due to all issues pinnacled by their service center keeping my unit for 4 months and still not being able to repair it) I was hoping the LSP9T would be the ultimate solution.
> 
> *However, extreme laser speckle/shimmer on larger bright areas (white/red being the worst).* Less but clearly noticable speckle even on white printer paper in front of my ALR screen. To make worse, no pop but much more dull image vs my old UHZ65UST calibrated for proper colors and realistic skin tones etc. Tried both movie and Filmmaker mode with/without tweaking but the entire image was covered with tiny gray "grain" (not due to the screen) as if optical impurity. On the good side, no noticable CA. RBE slightly more noticable vs my old UHZ65UST but not really an issue to me.
> 
> *So, as strange as it sounds, typically very dull image while at the same time extreme laser speckle and my wife complained she was seeing double when trying to read white text on black background.*
> 
> Having carefully read through all the 70 pages of this thread there is clearly a big LSP9T lottery going on. Some units are just "****" while others seem to be fantastic. Judging from my LSP9T the UHZ65UST (P1) image is by far superior which of course isn't true but rather it's the other way around as long as you don't get a ****ty unit.
> 
> Couldn't stand the speckle and my store checked with another store who had the LSP9T on display but they confirmed similar speckle. *Neither myself or my store wanted to participate in any lottery sending units front and forward but instead we decided to return my LSP9T.* Such a shame as I had an amazing deal on it with almost 40% off during the Samsung Lifestyle week here. *Oh well, after almost 2 years I'm finally giving up on ust and instead buying a relatively small 85" TV *as my wife doesn't accept any traditional projector in our living room. *Such a shame...
> 
> All the best and i envy all of you having received good units to enjoy a fantastic image!*


Does your wife wear glasses by chance? My glasses cause the “seeing double” color bleed chromatic aberration like you’re explaining. As soon as I remove them it goes away. 

I am planning to get a better pair with better lenses.


----------



## bennutt

jmg999 said:


> *Received my LSP9T last weekend.* Aligned it perfectly to a 100" ALR for almost no light bleed (difficult) and adjusted for good focus. Coming from an Optoma UHZ65UST (great image when ok but never going back due to all issues pinnacled by their service center keeping my unit for 4 months and still not being able to repair it) I was hoping the LSP9T would be the ultimate solution.
> 
> *However, extreme laser speckle/shimmer on larger bright areas (white/red being the worst).* Less but clearly noticable speckle even on white printer paper in front of my ALR screen. To make worse, no pop but much more dull image vs my old UHZ65UST calibrated for proper colors and realistic skin tones etc. Tried both movie and Filmmaker mode with/without tweaking but the entire image was covered with tiny gray "grain" (not due to the screen) as if optical impurity. On the good side, no noticable CA. RBE slightly more noticable vs my old UHZ65UST but not really an issue to me.
> 
> *So, as strange as it sounds, typically very dull image while at the same time extreme laser speckle and my wife complained she was seeing double when trying to read white text on black background.*
> 
> Having carefully read through all the 70 pages of this thread there is clearly a big LSP9T lottery going on. Some units are just "****" while others seem to be fantastic. Judging from my LSP9T the UHZ65UST (P1) image is by far superior which of course isn't true but rather it's the other way around as long as you don't get a ****ty unit.
> 
> Couldn't stand the speckle and my store checked with another store who had the LSP9T on display but they confirmed similar speckle. *Neither myself or my store wanted to participate in any lottery sending units front and forward but instead we decided to return my LSP9T.* Such a shame as I had an amazing deal on it with almost 40% off during the Samsung Lifestyle week here. *Oh well, after almost 2 years I'm finally giving up on ust and instead buying a relatively small 85" TV *as my wife doesn't accept any traditional projector in our living room. *Such a shame...
> 
> All the best and i envy all of you having received good units to enjoy a fantastic image!*


I can confirm that both of these were issues for me over 2 different (early units) - moved to the LG and have had zero issues with speckle or the chromatic aberration. It's just barely louder than the Samsung was.


----------



## jmg999

*Humax:* Thanks for the tip but I checked out both VAVA and JMGo S3 during a business trip to China 2 years ago and while it could have changed since at the time neither were my cup of tea. Also, I prefered to wait for the traditional projector brands and pay some extra buying it from a local store back home in case of issues. Now it would be difficult to go back to coil wind after experiencing how blessingly silent the LSP9T was not to mention it also allows for normal media furniture.

My primary issue with the LSP9T was the speckle. The "dull" image might just be that I used it out of the box in movie/filmmaker mode. Many many years ago my Kuro 5090H was pretty much crap at first but turned out to be fantastic after proper calibration/settings. The LG oled TVs I had afterwards went from ok to stunning after calibration. Similar with my old UHZ65UST where I had to copy calibration settings from another AVSforum user due to covid restrictions and still ended up with a really nice image. So, I wouldn't judge the LSP9T image before having it properly calibrated by a pro. As ref I consider the iPad produces a very nice image.

*Dave:* Correct, she wears glasses (very expensive ones but not sure that counts for quality).

*Bennut*: good to hear you had a good experience with the LG. Must be big differences between LSP9T units because while certain issues are subjective the laser speckle I experienced was extremely obvious. Could also explain why _Projectorhead_ said his customers prefered the LG in the side by side shootout.

*Final 2 cents *Have received my 85" TV and image wise it's a TV but size wise it's also a tv... Will be perfectly fine with it and sit out until ust matures and then have another go in 1-2 iterations.


----------



## kylekaturn

Anyone use sound through eARC and get it work LPCM 5.1 / 7.1 ?
I have LSP9T and Q950T Soundbar. I connected to soundbar with HDMI eARC, and I never get it work LPCM 5.1 / 7.1
I Tested PS, XSX, Switch. when I change audio format to LPCM 5.1, XSX says it doen's supported. and PS5 and Switch silently downmix to 2 channel audio.

I emailed to Samsung support. they said it should work.


----------



## newtophoto

Until recently, I was able to control my shield TV with the samsung remote. Now, all I can do is turn it off and on. I can't navigate through the Shield TV at all. Anyone know how to fix this? CEC is turned on on both the projector and shield tv options.


----------



## DunMunro

Chris Majestic reviews the LSP9T:


----------



## Varun Kantamneni

Does LSP9T support Dolby Atmos on the popular streaming apps like Netflix, Prime, HBO Max?


----------



## rigidz

Varun Kantamneni said:


> Does LSP9T support Dolby Atmos on the popular streaming apps like Netflix, Prime, HBO Max?


Yes . Including Aha .


----------



## avsenthusiast

newtophoto said:


> Until recently, I was able to control my shield TV with the samsung remote. Now, all I can do is turn it off and on. I can't navigate through the Shield TV at all. Anyone know how to fix this? CEC is turned on on both the projector and shield tv options.


Have you tried disabling CEC and then run the setup again? This happened to my Shield once and the step seemed to have resolved the issue. Make sure Shield TV is connected directly to the projector not through an AVR.


----------



## avsenthusiast

jmg999 said:


> *Final 2 cents *Have received my 85" TV and image wise it's a TV but size wise it's also a tv... Will be perfectly fine with it and sit out until ust matures and then have another go in 1-2 iterations.


I thought about giving up too and wait for the next-gen but watching shows with my LSP9T in a completely dark room on a normal 1.0 gain white screen, I don't see any speckles/rainbow shimmer so after calibration I don't feel the need to get an ALR screen right now. 

Would it be nice for a manufacturer to come out with an ALR screen that works with 3 lasers? Yes of course.

I do hope LSP9T is selling well to the point that screen manufacturers feel the need to re-design a screen that doesn't introduce the speckle/rainbow shimmer just to sell to LSP9T owners. But if LSP9T/LSP7T sales are not good around the world, then I don't think the screen manufacturers have the need to produce anything aside from the same old UST ALR screens that they carry right now.


----------



## avsenthusiast

bennutt said:


> I can confirm that both of these were issues for me over 2 different (early units) - moved to the LG and have had zero issues with speckle or the chromatic aberration. It's just barely louder than the Samsung was.


Do you miss the P3 colors and the brigntess on the Samsung?


----------



## avsenthusiast

humax said:


> You may want to reconsider and go for another rgb laser like the Vava Chroma or the Jmgo U2. These have the smaler 0.47" dmd, but offer better contrast than the Samsung and they are cheaper too . Check this video out after 5:38. You will get at least 100" and possibly the pop you are looking for.


According to Vava Chroma's indiegogo page, on paper it seems to meet LSP9T's performance and also addresses the major shortcomings of LSP9T by providing:

1. 3D! --- I can watch 3D again! 
2. Some kind of "ALPD® 4.0 technology also *effectively reduces speckles* commonly found in other RGB light source projectors." -- too bad it doesn't completely eliminate it, but at least they are willing to address it which is a step that Samsung is not taking
3. REC.2020 -- this is very future-proof 

What is the resale price of LSP9T? It's so frustrating to deal with its other major flaw of color shifts with OSD and subtitles when watching shows.

Some unknowns though:

a) how is the performance of a smaller 0.47" chip though? Will it be as sharp as LSP9T?

b) has Vava's color calibration system been good in the past?


----------



## bennutt

avsscientist said:


> Do you miss the P3 colors and the brigntess on the Samsung?


There is no discernible difference, other than the red looks better on the LG and less like an actual red laser. If the color or brightness was worse I might have stuck with the Samsung and tried to ignore the CA issue.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

avsscientist said:


> I thought about giving up too and wait for the next-gen but watching shows with my LSP9T in a completely dark room on a normal 1.0 gain white screen, I don't see any speckles/rainbow shimmer so after calibration I don't feel the need to get an ALR screen right now.
> 
> Would it be nice for a manufacturer to come out with an ALR screen that works with 3 lasers? Yes of course.
> 
> I do hope LSP9T is selling well to the point that screen manufacturers feel the need to re-design a screen that doesn't introduce the speckle/rainbow shimmer just to sell to LSP9T owners. But if LSP9T/LSP7T sales are not good around the world, then I don't think the screen manufacturers have the need to produce anything aside from the same old UST ALR screens that they carry right now.


I’m using a stretched sheet of white spandex temporarily during my move and I am quite impressed actually! The fabric seems to just “capture” the image and glow since it’s coming from such an extreme low angle. It seems to almost totally eliminate the laser speckle, and you get an acoustically transparent screen to boot!

I may actually keep this setup and sell my Stewart Studiotek 130!!! 

It’s a certain model spandex. I’ll share if anyone wants me to?


----------



## Miniswede

Which streamingbox/stick do you recommend to the LPS9T? I live in sweden and a lot of swden-based/created apps is SO buggy and slow on the LSP9T OS. Im thinking of the Google chromecast with google tv because it is one of few that supports HDR10+ and have all the swedish apps through google store. Have someone tried this setup? would you recommend it?

I was thinking of Nvidia shield 2019 and Apple tv 4k 2021, but if i understand it correctly, neither support HDR10+. Correct me if im wrong! And the Roku doesnt support all the swedish apps that i need for sports and moviestreams. If you have some other streaming boxes that you recommend, please let me now!


----------



## Dave Harper

Miniswede said:


> Which streamingbox/stick do you recommend to the LPS9T? I live in sweden and a lot of swden-based/created apps is SO buggy and slow on the LSP9T OS. Im thinking of the Google chromecast with google tv because it is one of few that supports HDR10+ and have all the swedish apps through google store. Have someone tried this setup? would you recommend it?
> 
> I was thinking of Nvidia shield 2019 and Apple tv 4k 2021, but if i understand it correctly, neither support HDR10+. Correct me if im wrong! And the Roku doesnt support all the swedish apps that i need for sports and moviestreams. If you have some other streaming boxes that you recommend, please let me now!


I would say the AppleTV 4K latest generation box. If your budget allows I’d pair it with an HDFury Vertex2 or Arcana and use them to spoof your AppleTV into playing LLDV Dolby Vision. 

There are some incredible settings with this combo that you can use that totally maximizes what the LSP9T can do and the end result image is amazing!


----------



## Miniswede

Dave Harper said:


> I would say the AppleTV 4K latest generation box. If your budget allows I’d pair it with an HDFury Vertex2 or Arcana and use them to spoof your AppleTV into playing LLDV Dolby Vision.
> 
> There are some incredible settings with this combo that you can use that totally maximizes what the LSP9T can do and the end result image is amazing!


Wow, why havent i heard about this (lldv) before?? Thank you for the tip! This sounds so amazing. Would you recomend the hdfury or acana if money isnt a subject?

And whats settings to maximize if i may ask? Sounds like you got something tasty!

Edit: Would the new "8K VRROOM 40Gbps" make any difference for the LSP9T? Or would you get the same benefits from the Vortex2?


----------



## Dave Harper

Miniswede said:


> Wow, why havent i heard about this (lldv) before?? Thank you for the tip! This sounds so amazing. Would you recomend the hdfury or acana if money isnt a subject?
> 
> And whats settings to maximize if i may ask? Sounds like you got something tasty!
> 
> Edit: Would the new "8K VRROOM 40Gbps" make any difference for the LSP9T? Or would you get the same benefits from the Vortex2?


I discovered this a couple years ago but then I wasn’t able to post here for about two years. I made a post about it elsewhere that got a lot of traction. @Bytehoven then made a similar post here at AVS. You can learn all about it on the dedicated thread here at AVS, but here is a specific earlier post here with a link to a post regarding using it on the Samsung LSP9T:









Official Samsung "Premiere" LSP9T Owners Thread


So, I received my unit today and I seem to have a new iteration of the model/version: CA01 Mine also says version CA01. I purchased it in November 2020.




www.avsforum.com





I am not real familiar with the VRROOM (for gamers?) yet, but the Vertex2 is excellent for doing this.


----------



## avsenthusiast

@Dave Harper welcome back to avsforums. I’m familiar with your work with Vertex2 in other forums so thanks for bringing that excellent work here too.
Have you had a chance to test the Vertex2 on Shield TV as many have requested?


----------



## Bytehoven

Dave Harper said:


> I discovered this a couple years ago but then I wasn’t able to post here for about two years. I made a post about it elsewhere that got a lot of traction. @Bytehoven then made a similar post here at AVS. You can learn all about it on the dedicated thread here at AVS, but here is a specific earlier post here with a link to a post regarding using it on the Samsung LSP9T:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Official Samsung "Premiere" LSP9T Owners Thread
> 
> 
> So, I received my unit today and I seem to have a new iteration of the model/version: CA01 Mine also says version CA01. I purchased it in November 2020.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not real familiar with the VRROOM (for gamers?) yet, but the Vertex2 is excellent for doing this.


Hi dave... I was happy to help spread the good news on DV LLDV. I think I barely did your discovery justice, so I'm really glad you're back among us to correct any errors in the info.

👍 🤘🖖


----------



## avsenthusiast

@JereyWolf I think you’re using madVR, I wonder if the Vertex2 processor would solve the color shift problem?

On second thought, maybe it won’t because LSP9T’s onboard processing may still override whatever signal sent to it.


----------



## bennutt

Miniswede said:


> Wow, why havent i heard about this (lldv) before?? Thank you for the tip! This sounds so amazing. Would you recomend the hdfury or acana if money isnt a subject?
> 
> And whats settings to maximize if i may ask? Sounds like you got something tasty!
> 
> Edit: Would the new "8K VRROOM 40Gbps" make any difference for the LSP9T? Or would you get the same benefits from the Vortex2?


The Vertex 2 is fine. You wouldn’t see a benefit from Vroom 40gbps speed because the Samsung uses HDMI 2.0 - which is 18gbps.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> @JereyWolf I think you’re using madVR, I wonder if the Vertex2 processor would solve the color shift problem?
> 
> On second thought, maybe it won’t because LSP9T’s onboard processing may still override whatever signal sent to it.


Right, I'm only using MadVR for movies and I have the color shift from every input device.
I actually had the Vertex2 set up to experiment with LLDV about 9 months ago. I ended up sending it back....but I think I want to give it another chance with @Dave Harper settings.
I have an Nvidia shield and at the time I wasn't ready to invest in the Apple TV 4k, or a new BluRay player capable of passing LLDV.


----------



## Miniswede

Dave Harper said:


> I discovered this a couple years ago but then I wasn’t able to post here for about two years. I made a post about it elsewhere that got a lot of traction. @Bytehoven then made a similar post here at AVS. You can learn all about it on the dedicated thread here at AVS, but here is a specific earlier post here with a link to a post regarding using it on the Samsung LSP9T:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Official Samsung "Premiere" LSP9T Owners Thread
> 
> 
> So, I received my unit today and I seem to have a new iteration of the model/version: CA01 Mine also says version CA01. I purchased it in November 2020.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not real familiar with the VRROOM (for gamers?) yet, but the Vertex2 is excellent for doing this.



Thank you so much for all the help and guidance 🙏 i just want to check that im at the right place (still new to this forum). I click on your link and get transfered to a post from "Mikenificent1" and he have posted a link to a user namned HarperVision. And HarperVision have posted some setting of the vertex2. Is that the one you referred to, or am i lost in cyberspace? Because i cant find the namn Bytehoven anywhere 😅excuse my incompetence!


----------



## Dave Harper

avsscientist said:


> @Dave Harper welcome back to avsforums. I’m familiar with your work with Vertex2 in other forums so thanks for bringing that excellent work here too.
> Have you had a chance to test the Vertex2 on Shield TV as many have requested?


No sorry I haven’t. I haven’t had a real theater in a while due to my big move back to the mainland USA. I’m actually projecting onto a stretched sheet of spandex and as I said, it’s quite amazing for use with the LSP9T!

I’m really not a fan of the Shield, other than to be the server for my Channels DVR setup. I’ll see what I can do. What exactly did you want to know about it again? 



Bytehoven said:


> Hi dave... I was happy to help spread the good news on DV LLDV. I think I barely did your discovery justice, so I'm really glad you're back among us to correct any errors in the info.


Thanks for holding down the fort, RJ!!! You did awesome and better than me. I’m not as good at keeping my tone down and squashing my passion for this stuff, as you know!



Miniswede said:


> Thank you so much for all the help and guidance  i just want to check that im at the right place (still new to this forum). I click on your link and get transfered to a post from "Mikenificent1" and he have posted a link to a user namned HarperVision. And HarperVision have posted some setting of the vertex2. Is that the one you referred to, or am i lost in cyberspace? Because i cant find the namn Bytehoven anywhere excuse my incompetence!


Yes that’s correct. I am known as “HarperVision” in certain circles. The only reason my name is my real name here is because I used to work for AV Science/ AVS Forum back when they were owned by the same person (Alan Gouger) and company, so they changed my user name for sales purposes, just as Mike Garrett and Craig Peer are. 

I only referenced @Bytehoven because he is the one that took the LLDV mantle here at AVSF while I was on a “hiatus”, so he started the original LLDV thread here since I couldn’t.


----------



## Miniswede

Dave Harper said:


> No sorry I haven’t. I haven’t had a real theater in a while due to my big move back to the mainland USA. I’m actually projecting onto a stretched sheet of spandex and as I said, it’s quite amazing for use with the LSP9T!
> 
> I’m really not a fan of the Shield, other than to be the server for my Channels DVR setup. I’ll see what I can do. What exactly did you want to know about it again?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for holding down the fort, RJ!!! You did awesome and better than me. I’m not as good at keeping my tone down and squashing my passion for this stuff, as you know!
> 
> 
> 
> Yes that’s correct. I am known as “HarperVision” in certain circles. The only reason my name is my real name here is because I used to work for AV Science/ AVS Forum back when they were owned by the same person (Alan Gouger) and company, so they changed my user name for sales purposes, just as Mike Garrett and Craig Peer are.
> 
> I only referenced @Bytehoven because he is the one that took the LLDV mantle here at AVSF while I was on a “hiatus”, so he started the original LLDV thread here since I couldn’t.


Just WOW. Bought the LSP9T for a couple of weeks ago. Projected the image on a white really even flat wall (but it has some textures on it). Calibrated the settings on the LSP9T. I was impressed by the quality then and i was like "do i even need a screen? isn't fine? is a screen worth 2000 euro?". 

Today i got the Vividstorm s-pro 120" floorscreen, the HDfury Vertex2, and Apple tv 4k 2021. Everything is set up (thanks to @Dave Harper which provided a lot of help and support with the apple tv + vertex - info and settings) And OH MY GOD. How could i even think that the picture was good on the white wall. My previous tv was a sony a8h 65" and i can say that i dont miss it for one sec. This setup is sick. 

No RBE, no laser speckle (if i dont stand like 5 cm from the screen), impressive color and black levels (not as deep as oled, but really really good). After setting it up with the Vertex2 (daves settings), i now have dolby vision support in alot of apps and the picture quality went up 100x. And i got this in a bright apartment, with a lot of big windows and bright white walls. Imagine how it will be in a dedicated movie room. My neighbor who lives across the street texted me and told me he could se my "tv" clear and sharp hehe.

Thanks alot dave, this wasn't possible without you 🙏

One last question dave. The new apple tv 4k 2021 got a calibration mode if you combine it with your iphone. Then the iphone can measure the color and adjust the output from the apple tv. Is this something you would recommend to do, or will it make it worse because this is a projector and not a tv?


----------



## Dave Harper

Miniswede said:


> Just WOW. Bought the LSP9T for a couple of weeks ago. Projected the image on a white really even flat wall (but it has some textures on it). Calibrated the settings on the LSP9T. I was impressed by the quality then and i was like "do i even need a screen? isn't fine? is a screen worth 2000 euro?".
> 
> Today i got the Vividstorm s-pro 120" floorscreen, the HDfury Vertex2, and Apple tv 4k 2021. Everything is set up (thanks to @Dave Harper which provided a lot of help and support with the apple tv + vertex - info and settings) And OH MY GOD. How could i even think that the picture was good on the white wall. My previous tv was a sony a8h 65" and i can say that i dont miss it for one sec. This setup is sick.
> 
> No RBE, no laser speckle (if i dont stand like 5 cm from the screen), impressive color and black levels (not as deep as oled, but really really good). After setting it up with the Vertex2 (daves settings), i now have dolby vision support in alot of apps and the picture quality went up 100x. And i got this in a bright apartment, with a lot of big windows and bright white walls. Imagine how it will be in a dedicated movie room. My neighbor who lives across the street texted me and told me he could se my "tv" clear and sharp hehe.
> 
> Thanks alot dave, this wasn't possible without you
> 
> One last question dave. The new apple tv 4k 2021 got a calibration mode if you combine it with your iphone. Then the iphone can measure the color and adjust the output from the apple tv. Is this something you would recommend to do, or will it make it worse because this is a projector and not a tv?


You’re very welcome and I am happy to always share my passionate settings with anyone!

Would you mind sharing exactly what you have as your exact settings in every device (AppleTV, Vertex2, LSP9T, etc)? I always tweak and adjust so just curious where you’re at with your screen compared to my “po’ boy” spandex sheet from Jo-Ann Fabric! 

Not sure I wrote or mentioned it, but SDR looks really good when using RGB Low on the AppleTV and LSP9T, with some brightness adjustments of course. It seems using low allows the laser to go even lower into the black realm which seems to help contrast some, improving the image despite maybe having a mismatch (shouldn’t be though, if you set RGB low on both), even if it’s compensated for in settings. This works even better on my BenQ LK990 actually. You can really tweak the laser’s dynamic (operating) range this way. But unfortunately the LSP9T doesn’t have anything like the LK990’s SmartEco laser dimming feature, which really benefits from doing this. 

I can’t really comment on the AppleTV’s auto calibration feature because it doesn’t work in Dolby Vision mode. I did try it in hdr10 but I had to do some funky things to get it to read, like putting up a white sheet of copy paper in front of the iPhone’s sensor/face as a diffuser because the pure laser light was way too powerful for the sensor to read. The result seemed weird so I just cancelled it, knowing I was using Dolby Vision anyway since the result was moot, because I don’t use HDR10 mode anyway.


----------



## Stinklez

Apologies for being THAT GUY. I've got a lot of strikes - I know there's 72 pages of advice and I'm going to go look - and I actually have an LSP7 so I'm not even in the right place, but I assume you guys are a bit harder-core than us monolaser scrubs. Got one as a surprise birthday present and I am absolutely DELIGHTED. Works right out of the box without any fuss. And I have three questions.

My only complaint with my use cases - the odd movie night indoor and out, NFL games (although Seahawks are probably done this year....) and me watching Dune nonstop until HBO Max removes it - is lack of bass. 

1. I'm wondering if there's a NO BRAINER way to add an appropriately scaled sub - doesn't need to be massive - it's to match the built in speakers - I have a couple of other discrete Atmos setups for more audiophile applications - so ideally something cheap and easy to pair/hide. Maybe even a wireless Samsung soundbar sub? The speakers don't behave like a Samsung soundbar though so I'd be surprised if it supported the protocol. I see HDMI, SPIDF/Opt and a 3.5mm jack but no Sub phono.

2. My second question is even dumber and almost certainly answered a hundred times here - I have a cheap, cheerful 100 inch white screen on a tension frame which is fine for now, but I'm wondering if there xists an equally easy, cheap (<$200) CineGrey/Ambient Light Rejecting screen that's easy to set up and hide, and if it's even worth it with the LSP7's single laser?

3. Anyone got defaults they use for gaming? I don't usually trust Game Mode - but I've found that manually deactivating the trash (motion smoothing, noise reduction etc) doesn't always eliminate all the processing. If it IS Game Mode, fair enough, but wondering if there's any secret methods to get it closer to normal latency.


----------



## avsenthusiast

Dave Harper said:


> I’m really not a fan of the Shield, other than to be the server for my Channels DVR setup. I’ll see what I can do. What exactly did you want to know about it again?


Specifically I would like to know if the "LLDV hacks" you documented using Vertex2 would work on _Shield TV_ _Pro_. 



Dave Harper said:


> I’m using a stretched sheet of white spandex temporarily during my move and I am quite impressed actually... I may actually keep this setup and sell my Stewart Studiotek 130!!!
> It’s a certain model spandex. I’ll share if anyone wants me to?


Yes I am very interested in knowing and testing this spandex material if you could share. 

I wanted to get the Vividstorm UST ALR to begin with but after hearing other owners' experience of seeing speckles on it, I wonder if there will be better solutions in the future, so maybe this "magic spandex" will be it


----------



## avsenthusiast

@ProjectionHead I know LSP9T is old news, because people are moving onto the new ALPD4 UST's lately, but I have a question for you.

Out of the 3 "Recommended Screen Partners" published by Samsung, have you tested or found any in ceiling-mounted motorized version that is free of the dreaded "speckles" issue? 

I wonder if any of these "premium" screens would be a better quality and "good-value" upgrade to the Vividstorm ALR for UST.


----------



## ProjectionHead

avsscientist said:


> @ProjectionHead I know LSP9T is old news, because people are moving onto the new ALPD4 UST's lately, but I have a question for you.
> 
> Out of the 3 "Recommended Screen Partners" published by Samsung, have you tested or found any in ceiling-mounted motorized version that is free of the dreaded "speckles" issue?
> 
> I wonder if any of these "premium" screens would be a better quality and "good-value" upgrade to the Vividstorm ALR for UST.
> 
> View attachment 3184957


Speckling is a result of the triple laser and will be found on all screens. While you will get a sharper image on the SI & Stewart options over the Vividstorm, I wouldn't expect any difference in terms of the amount of speckle.

Out of those those three recommend partners; if you want an ALR for UST, Stewart does not currently have a motorized option. SI only has an option up to 100" diagonal and Elite has both a 100" & 120" options with their DarkUST material.

For Stewart in a non-alr material (for dedicated theater spaces), the Greymatte .7 is the recommended surface and can be motorized and larger than the 120", but alas it will too show speckling from the LSP9T.

The new Hisense L9G boasts a lower amount of speckle than the LSP9T and Hisense also claims that the ALPD4 laser engine is "old news" and that they have surpassed that technology in their light engine.


----------



## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> Definitely interesting. The only color space setting that it doesn't happen on for me is the "normal" color space...I never use that one because it looks so bad.


@JereyWolf I found this post that you posted a while ago while searching for clues to solve the LSP9T color shift. 

Could you confirm that "normal" space does eliminate the issue? 

Samsung now wants me to send my unit in to a service center so they can "troubleshoot" the issue, which I don't think is fair because there is no estimate on how long I will lose access to the projector. 

What would the rest of you guys do? ie. If Samsung or any manufacturer tells you:

"Sorry, we don't know what's wrong with our *__*, but please send in the product that you purchased with your hard-earned money so we can troubleshoot it for an indefinite amount of time, and no promises if we are going to find anything wrong (or within tolerances), and we may or may not replace a new unit for you. We don't care in the meantime how you are going to watch tv, news, events if this happens to be your main and only TV."


----------



## avsenthusiast

avmagazine said:


> Thank you. BTW I'm here also because people like you, with time and motivation to find out useful information from this projector. I believe I'll be back to review the Samsung LSP9T after a firmware update, hoply soon.
> 
> Emidio


Hi Emidio / @avmagazine thank you for the amazing "lab-grade" review you published on the LSP9T and your responses here, I have learned a lot from you. 

Unfortunately since your last activity here, there is still no firmware update from Samsung for the LSP9T. 

The biggest issue that I am suffering from is the color / white balance shift that you noticed when going into menus. Unfortunately this red and blue channels dip is not limited to menus, so every time white subtitles would appear, this shift happens too.

I have been able to somewhat mitigate it by changing subtitles size and using yellow font rather than white font for subtitles, but on many shows and content, their big bright OSD and white subtitles are "burnt in" so it's not under my control. In these situations, the color shifts will occur hundreds of times over the course of one show/movie, which is extremely annoying and unacceptable. 

My question to you is, do you have a sense that this is a firmware issue caused by Samsung's DTM algorithm? 

I am asking because many owners on here do not notice this issue, except only for @JereyWolf and me. Or do you think only some units are affected during certain productions? 

Samsung is asking me to send in my receiver to a service unit far away for an indefinite amount of time for "troubleshooting" but I don't really want to waste my time and to lose access to the projector for unknown time periods, so your advice is appreciated.


----------



## avsenthusiast

@Jue Liang thank you for your amazing review and findings on the LSP9T!



Jue Liang said:


> ...the use of an ultra-short throw anti-light screen will slightly improve, but it is just drinking a dove to quench thirst. So if you want to pursue high image quality, this kind of ultra-short throw projection is best placed in a black hole environment as much as possible with the white screen...


Just to confirm, by "white screen" you mean a normal 1.0 gain?



Jue Liang said:


> So my suggestion is that in SDR mode, if you pursue color and gamma accuracy, the contrast value is recommended to be set to 35. If you want to increase the brightness, it is best not to exceed 41.
> 
> Next is the EOTF curve when the contrast is set to 45, multiplied by different coefficients and compared with the PQ curve of 175nits, 250nits, and 1000nits. It can be seen that the overall EOTF is obviously lower than the 175nits curve. Within 50nits, it probably overlaps with the 250nits curve, and then slowly decreases. The highlight intercept point is still around 1000nits. It’s worth noting that I zoomed in on the dark curve, and it can be seen that the EOTF in the dark area is higher than the 175nit curve, indicating that this machine has to raise the dark area EOTF because the contrast is not high enough (high in DLP, but not good enough). In order to show the dark details.
> 
> In addition to the contrast setting in this system, there is an option of ST2084 (-3 to +3 adjustment range) that can finely EOTF. Below is the result of keeping the contrast at 45 and setting the ST2084 option to -3. It can be seen that the entire EOTF basically coincides with the 400nits curve, without the previous slow decline, but the highlight intercept point is still maintained at 1000nits. I personally think that this setting is more balanced when using HDR inside the machine. If you can use external HDR dynamic mapping processing equipment, of course, it is much better than the built-in static mapping.
> View attachment 3086571
> 
> View attachment 3086572


Based on the above, is my understanding correct that you recommend:

1. for SDR, tweak gamma and color, but don't set Contrast higher than 41
2. for HDR, use 45 for contrast, but fine tune EOTF by setting ST2084 to -3

I can't wait to try these settings!


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> @JereyWolf I found this post that you posted a while ago while searching for clues to solve the LSP9T color shift.
> 
> Could you confirm that "normal" space does eliminate the issue?
> 
> Samsung now wants me to send my unit in to a service center so they can "troubleshoot" the issue, which I don't think is fair because there is no estimate on how long I will lose access to the projector.
> 
> What would the rest of you guys do? ie. If Samsung or any manufacturer tells you:
> 
> "Sorry, we don't know what's wrong with our *__*, but please send in the product that you purchased with your hard-earned money so we can troubleshoot it for an indefinite amount of time, and no promises if we are going to find anything wrong (or within tolerances), and we may or may not replace a new unit for you. We don't care in the meantime how you are going to watch tv, news, events if this happens to be your main and only TV."


Confirmed again, with color space set to "normal" I did not see the color shift on a scene where it's typically very obvious.
Your concerns are my biggest hold up with sending it for warranty work too. Honestly...I don't think they'll be able to do anything about about it..and I'm worried about the projector getting damaged or possibly replaced with a worse unit.


----------



## Dave Harper

avsscientist said:


> Specifically I would like to know if the "LLDV hacks" you documented using Vertex2 would work on _Shield TV_ _Pro_.
> 
> 
> Yes I am very interested in knowing and testing this spandex material if you could share.
> 
> I wanted to get the Vividstorm UST ALR to begin with but after hearing other owners' experience of seeing speckles on it, I wonder if there will be better solutions in the future, so maybe this "magic spandex" will be it


OK I will have to try to move my Shield and get it hooked up to the system to see how it reacts with LLDV on the HDFury. 

Here is the label from the Spandex:


----------



## Dave Harper

JereyWolf said:


> Confirmed again, with color space set to "normal" I did not see the color shift on a scene where it's typically very obvious.
> Your concerns are my biggest hold up with sending it for warranty work too. Honestly...I don't think they'll be able to do anything about about it..and I'm worried about the projector getting damaged or possibly replaced with a worse unit.


Have you tried Game Mode, as I use in my linked settings?


----------



## avsenthusiast

Dave Harper said:


> Have you tried Game Mode, as I use in my linked settings?


No, I have not tried Game Mode as a workaround for the color shift, because I don’t have a video processor yet. Just waiting for confirmation that LLDV works on Shield/Shield Pro, but if somehow Game Mode may help to reduce/eliminate color shift I will give it a try in the mean time!


----------



## avsenthusiast

ProjectionHead said:


> Out of those those three recommend partners; if you want an ALR for UST, Stewart does not currently have a motorized option. SI only has an option up to 100" diagonal and Elite has both a 100" & 120" options with their DarkUST material.


If I want motorized and 120”, based on your answers, if I am understanding correctly, the Elite DarkUST is the only option available. Do you carry this specific screen?

Just to confirm, the sharpness will be an improvement over Vividstorm?

Edit: i can’t seem to find this “DarkUST” on Elite Screens website, the closest is this one but it’s not for UST



ProjectionHead said:


> The new Hisense L9G boasts a lower amount of speckle than the LSP9T and Hisense also claims that the ALPD4 laser engine is "old news" and that they have surpassed that technology in their light engine.


It’s interesting that Mark actually rated LSP9T higher than L9G in the shootout because L9G has poor blacks. The LSP9T is not great to begin with so i can’t imagine something worse.


----------



## Dave Harper

avsscientist said:


> No, I have not tried Game Mode as a workaround for the color shift, because I don’t have a video processor yet. Just waiting for confirmation that LLDV works on Shield/Shield Pro, but if somehow Game Mode may help to reduce/eliminate color shift I will give it a try in the mean time!


I don’t believe you need a video processor to use Game Mode.


----------



## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> I was only able to install new firmware when it was officially released and came through the auto update. Afterwards I checked the Samsung US website again and it showed version 2012.1. All of this leads me to believe that firmware is released for specific regions.


Strange, I just went to Samsung US support page for LSP9T, but 2012.1 is no longer there. 

Only 2012 (July 28, 2021) is showing. I wonder if 2012.1 has been pulled? 









Home | Official Samsung Support US


Get the latest owner's manuals, firmware and software updates for you Samsung devices in one easy-to-navigate location: the Manuals & Software page




www.samsung.com


----------



## JereyWolf

Dave Harper said:


> Have you tried Game Mode, as I use in my linked settings?


Yes, the color shift happens for me in game mode. I posted about it on this thread (post #330) after my first day of using this projector, 10 months ago. I wish that I would have sent it back during the 100 day trial period and purchased a different unit LSP9T...but at the time I wasn't sure if it was a bug or a feature...or if it could be addressed through firmware. 

This is also a comment for @Stinklez, I switch to game mode every time I'm playing games or general PC use. It absolutely makes a difference to the responsiveness of the projector. Without game mode engaged, I get stuttering during mouse movement. From what I can see, there are no image quality down sides to game mode. The only reason I even switch back and forth is because I use a different shadow detail setting for game mode.

@Dave Harper I've read where you said to enable game mode during general use in order to avert all extra processing the LSP9T might be doing; are there any specific visual artifacts that you have witnessed or know of that are only eliminated by switching to game mode?


----------



## Stinklez

Anyone know if it's possible to connect Samsung wifi Sub and or surround rears to the Premiere (still using the Premiere's built-in soundbar) ? The UI indicates it's supported but I can't get straight answer from Samsung. Failing that is there a way to connect a wired/powered sub without introducing another audio device?

And what's the current "best cheap" ALR screen?

And thanks @JereyWolf that's good to know! I don't need esports level but improvement is good!


----------



## rundmc143

Hello From down under. This is my first step into the projector world and I recently picked up this projector and am impressed so far. Could the enlightened ones please answer couple of questions? 

1. How do I figure out why I cant get edges flush? I have spent hours on screen adjustment, moving projector side to side and back and front but no luck. Is my screen not installed correctly? I have attached a few pictures.
2. We listen to lots of spotify through HT speakers and I see picture off button on projector which enables music to play whilst the projector screen is off. Can I automate/add this feature as shortcut as opposed to going through the settings?
3. The screen is a touch high for our liking but we cant drop it down dues to the height where the projector sits. Any ways around this?
4. We are looking to use projector as replacement for our 77"tv. The projector sits in the living room which has lots of natural light. Any recommended settings for this?

Thanks in advance and stay safe!


----------



## JereyWolf

rundmc143 said:


> 1. How do I figure out why I cant get edges flush? I have spent hours on screen adjustment, moving projector side to side and back and front but no luck. Is my screen not installed correctly? I have attached a few pictures.


On getting the image to fit the screen better, you can physically adjust the projector until the image is just larger than the entire screen surface, them use the keystone tool to digitally adjust the screen inward to a near perfect fit. This may introduce a larger light border...but try it for yourself to see what you think.


----------



## rundmc143

JereyWolf said:


> On getting the image to fit the screen better, you can physically adjust the projector until the image is just larger than the entire screen surface, them use the keystone tool to digitally adjust the screen inward to a near perfect fit. This may introduce a larger light border...but try it for yourself to see what you think.


That worked perfect for the top section. Thanks again sir


----------



## Dave Harper

JereyWolf said:


> Yes, the color shift happens for me in game mode. I posted about it on this thread (post #330) after my first day of using this projector, 10 months ago. I wish that I would have sent it back during the 100 day trial period and purchased a different unit LSP9T...but at the time I wasn't sure if it was a bug or a feature...or if it could be addressed through firmware.
> 
> This is also a comment for @Stinklez, I switch to game mode every time I'm playing games or general PC use. It absolutely makes a difference to the responsiveness of the projector. Without game mode engaged, I get stuttering during mouse movement. From what I can see, there are no image quality down sides to game mode. The only reason I even switch back and forth is because I use a different shadow detail setting for game mode.
> 
> @Dave Harper I've read where you said to enable game mode during general use in order to avert all extra processing the LSP9T might be doing; are there any specific visual artifacts that you have witnessed or know of that are only eliminated by switching to game mode?


Have you tried game mode along with RGB Low?

The best way to describe the improvements in game mode is just that the image seemed so much cleaner, more three dimensional, sharper, less jaggies, colors were tamed. It just so much less “processed” to me. It just seemed to defeat all the crappy “features” built into TVs like this and it allowed the Dolby Vision LLDV processing to really shine and show what makes it so great!

You should also combine it with turning on HGiG. I’m not 100% sure if and what it’s doing in this scenario, but it appears to me that it does, when combined with the AppleTV. Maybe try that to see if it helps the color shift too? idk, grasping at straws for you now I guess.


----------



## JereyWolf

Dave Harper said:


> Have you tried game mode along with RGB Low?
> 
> The best way to describe the improvements in game mode is just that the image seemed so much cleaner, more three dimensional, sharper, less jaggies, colors were tamed. It just so much less “processed” to me. It just seemed to defeat all the crappy “features” built into TVs like this and it allowed the Dolby Vision LLDV processing to really shine and show what makes it so great!
> 
> You should also combine it with turning on HGiG. I’m not 100% sure if and what it’s doing in this scenario, but it appears to me that it does, when combined with the AppleTV. Maybe try that to see if it helps the color shift too? idk, grasping at straws for you now I guess.


I appreciate the help. 
I don't actually own an apple tv to test those specific settings..I'm considering getting one to see how well it works along with the vertex2 using your settings.


----------



## rundmc143

hey guyshow do I get rid of the outer lines?
The image is flush but I get this. Any thoughts?


----------



## Stinklez

rundmc143 said:


> View attachment 3186314
> 
> 
> hey guyshow do I get rid of the outer lines?
> The image is flush but I get this. Any thoughts?


Both of my ideas below are sort of dumb so apologies if I'm asking stupid/obvious things you've already tried.

GUESS:

Is your screen more or less flush with the wall and are the bezels flush with the screen? That is to say, there's no gap that light could leak from and be echoed/leaked from the where the white screen surface meets the black border? You might see something like that if there were a thin gap in material and the light was just bouncing through and out onto the wall behind.

IF NOT: 

What's your source? Does this happen with every source you've tried, including the built-in test card? The test card shows the true outer bounds of the projection and is the safest way to position your projector for size/fit - but always worth using another native 16:9 image to make sure regular content from apps or external sources is fitting appropriately. 

The way the laser throw geometry/focus works means that subsequent changes of source material - regardless of resolution or aspect ratio, should only appear within those original outer bounds unless you physically move the projector again. Is it possible you positioned using some non-native source? A PC for example? (Although it'd still be curious to get "extra pixels" from the projector. If you were projecting just a big 4k, 16:9 blue screen, that blue screen should only be physically capable of appearing inside the outermost light shown on your wall - with blue overlapping onto the wall to those bounds.

The manual also includes real physical distances in mm for both distance to position from screen and multiple screen sizes in logical increments (90, 100, 110 etc) so you can take the eyeball/guesswork out of it and follow their measurements.


----------



## JereyWolf

rundmc143 said:


> hey guyshow do I get rid of the outer lines?
> The image is flush but I get this. Any thoughts?


I think the light border is increased relative to the amount the image exceeds the screen prior to keystone correction. 
Using the keystone adjustment to reduce the image to a near perfect fit can be a useful method of alignment, but this is the trade off. 
I would say the alternative is to physically align the projector so that the entire image is on the screen, even if there is some unused screen at the border; this should reduce the visible light border.


----------



## Stinklez

Still trying to find out if I can connect a Samsung wireless sub to my Premiere. I'm guessing at this point "no" but it seems like such an obvious thing someone spending this amount of money would want to do. And I have a few rational but slim reasons to think it might be possible:

1. It shows support for connecting wifi speakers in the UI (maybe just rear surrounds? That would be OK too I guess!)
2. Samsung online chat - phew - both times I got through to someone, they said fairly quickly (after trying several times to get me to buy a soundbar) that yes, I definitely could add Samsung wifi speakers and subwoofer to the Premiere - using the existing built in speakers as a traditional center/soundbar. 
3. Both times, they appeared to hang up or go AWOL when I asked which models are compatible.


----------



## Stinklez

oops. dp.


----------



## BirdBare

I've had this projector for about 6 months now. I think I know where the laser dotting is coming from. Mine has build up a lot of dust. I was worried the laser dotting was starting to creep in. I just cleaned the lens with a camera lens cloth. Took the projector apart and cleaned the bottom side too. Laser dotting is gone. May be worth a try to check that dust is not causing the issue.


----------



## Stinklez

BTW, Samsung just sent me a note with a new sale price on the LSP7 and 9 - the former, with my (non Samsung) employee discount, is now $1999 - and the latter, $3999 - not only does that make both legitimate bargains - it is probably a good indication that new models are imminent. 

I had to jump on a live chat with Samsung double quick - because my wife got me one from Amazon, not knowing I get a big discount, so I returned that one and ordered a replacement direct from Samsung to save a chunk of change. It arrives today, so I needed to make sure they matched the price before i sign for it. Chat isn't great at troubleshooting, but they are wicked efficient at refunds, so I'm all set.

Now I'm sorta regretting getting the 7 with the 9 so cheap....


----------



## am2model3

I wonder what the new model improvements will be?


----------



## avsenthusiast

am2model3 said:


> I wonder what the new model improvements will be?


For one, fix the DTM defect.

But sadly not many people are noticing the color shift issue to even qualify for a class action. As a result, instead of Samsung having to address this defect on the LSP9T, they will just release a newer model without this issue and charge more money for it?

Perhaps this is how the TV / electronics industry has been functioning for years? Release new models with bugs and wash them out with newer models without these issues and people with short term memory are just wiling to open thier wallets again and simply buy the next-gen models?

It seems in the end, only a court can decide if "color shift during subtitle and OSD" is considered a "defect" or "normal operating parameters" of a projector. But a big conglomerate like Samsung is definitely counting on us (or me at least) to give up the idea of a protracted fight in court and just "live with" the current defect, or better still (to them) I might even "enrich them further" by me buying the next-gen that has fixed this unacceptable issue.


----------



## ghosthound

Stinklez said:


> BTW, Samsung just sent me a note with a new sale price on the LSP7 and 9 - the former, with my (non Samsung) employee discount, is now $1999 - and the latter, $3999 - not only does that make both legitimate bargains - it is probably a good indication that new models are imminent.
> 
> I had to jump on a live chat with Samsung double quick - because my wife got me one from Amazon, not knowing I get a big discount, so I returned that one and ordered a replacement direct from Samsung to save a chunk of change. It arrives today, so I needed to make sure they matched the price before i sign for it. Chat isn't great at troubleshooting, but they are wicked efficient at refunds, so I'm all set.
> 
> Now I'm sorta regretting getting the 7 with the 9 so cheap....


Their website is also reflecting a discount, not as great as yours but in line with what they have done recently. I have heard the EDU discount stacks, I will need to confirm though. 

However, if there is a new model coming out… I think it may be worth waiting to see what comes of it.


----------



## bennutt

ghosthound said:


> Their website is also reflecting a discount, not as great as yours but in line with what they have done recently. I have heard the EDU discount stacks, I will need to confirm though.
> 
> However, if there is a new model coming out… I think it may be worth waiting to see what comes of it.


With the chip shortage and the shipping cluster I think we will be lucky to see anything actually coming out from anyone in the next year. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Jdel4278

Hi everyone. I’ve had my LSP9T for a couple of months and finally finished the room and hooked it up. I guess while making my adjustments (with a HDMI cable plugged into the eARC HDMI 1 port) the cable damaged the port. The middle piece of the port is now broken. Is anyone aware of how easy or difficult of a fix this may be? I’m assuming this wouldn’t be covered under warranty and I don’t think I could spin it anyway to make it covered. I did use the provided cable from the Samsung 11.1.4 soundbar to hook up. Not sure if that’s relevant (that cable is also now broken too). I’m located in Monmouth County NJ if anyone knows a local repair shop. All of the ones I’ve called only deal with phones, computers, tablets, etc. Thanks for any help you all can provide!


----------



## iunknown2008

In the menu go to screen adjustments, you can define the edges there. Also use advanced to straighten the center section.



rundmc143 said:


> hey guyshow do I get rid of the outer lines?
> The image is flush but I get this. Any thoughts?


----------



## Stinklez

I assembled my new cheapo indoor/outdoor screen last night - and.... It's a winner! The Premiere, Screen and Audio described below were all timed for the release of Dune. But the screen was the biggest and best surprise. I guess it's a "JSWIT 110 Inch Screen" - but they have plenty of other sizes.









Amazon.com: Projector Screen with Stand, Upgraded 3 Layers 110 inch 4K HD 16:9 Outdoor/Indoor Portable Front Projection Screen, Foldable Projection Screen with Carry Bag for Home Theater Backyard Movie : Electronics


Amazon.com: Projector Screen with Stand, Upgraded 3 Layers 110 inch 4K HD 16:9 Outdoor/Indoor Portable Front Projection Screen, Foldable Projection Screen with Carry Bag for Home Theater Backyard Movie : Electronics



www.amazon.com






The aluminum frame and feet look a bit cumbersome but the precision engineering for something this cheap is almost astonishing. Perfect right angles, true and flush and plumb - and the actual mechanisms are easy and logical. Everything clicks precisely and satisfyingly - and the screen, once stretched and clipped into the snaps is absolutely fantastic. I still see a few creases from shipping but they're obviously evaporating as it stays taut and warms up.

You do need "mom or dad strength" to stretch the screen if you start corner to corner - but if you do them one snap at a time it's probably easier to do the final ones. It disassembles and packs away even more easily and my second attempt at assembly was literally two minutes on my own. No buddy required. Comes in a nice sack for transportand storage and the screen comes with its own cover/case so it doesn't get trashed when you move it.

The screen comprises three layers of material and black PVC backing, but isn't stiff or ungainly. I tried in broad daylight in my living room and it was a huge improvement over my old cheapo stretch frame both in fidelity and stability as well as contrast and visibility. I'd considered a Cinegrey or similar to get more daytime contrast, but this is proof I didn't need that.

That was a joyous experience and almost made up for the absolute FIASCO of setting up an Amazon Echo Studio and sub as the home theater soundbar for this setup -

PROS: Surprisingly accurate Atmos from a single pod - good enough for movies for sure - and more than enough volume for even outdoor applications.

CONS: Setup is insane reefer madness of the highest order. Took several attempts at a multi-stage setup process that involved deleting prior tries and groups and resetting the router/modem (this is actually IN the instructions btw -somewhere between, "this is bound to happen" and "troubleshooting..." and I still don't know which step got it working.

You can connect wired with mini TOSLINK but are then limited to 5.1 or stereo - but Atmos is ONLY via the FireTV 4k stick and I suspect that some of the streaming apps installed on it won't play as nice as Prime Video, but I haven't experimented yet. Shame the Alexa capability on the Premiere doesn't extend to wireless audio codecs but that would be a heck of a reach...


----------



## Stinklez

Jdel4278 said:


> Hi everyone. I’ve had my LSP9T for a couple of months and finally finished the room and hooked it up. I guess while making my adjustments (with a HDMI cable plugged into the eARC HDMI 1 port) the cable damaged the port. The middle piece of the port is now broken. Is anyone aware of how easy or difficult of a fix this may be? I’m assuming this wouldn’t be covered under warranty and I don’t think I could spin it anyway to make it covered. I did use the provided cable from the Samsung 11.1.4 soundbar to hook up. Not sure if that’s relevant (that cable is also now broken too). I’m located in Monmouth County NJ if anyone knows a local repair shop. All of the ones I’ve called only deal with phones, computers, tablets, etc. Thanks for any help you all can provide!


The port shouldn't have failed under ordinary use - which includes plugging things in and unplugging them - so you should be covered by warranty unless you were swinging it around on a cable or dropped it. Those ports are designed and specced for frequent switching and normal stresses shouldn't result in damage. Just be clear and polite and insist that it failed under ordinary stresses and you should be covered. Replacing the port itself would be nightmarish I suspect.

The fact that you were using another Samsung device shouldn't be relevant but doesn't hurt. You should mention that but the important thing to communicate is that you didn't drop or torque anything. Even if you tugged or pulled at something, that still shouldn't break it.


----------



## djn2004

Bigbobby12345 said:


> Hi, I've just purchased this projector and have noticed on certain scenes a green light at the bottom of the screen, can anyone confirm if this is a known issue or if I have a setting wrong? Its projected onto an Elite screen Aeon CLR


I’m noticing this now too. I‘m on my second LSP9T and didn’t notice it on my first one, but it could be I was watching the right content. Noticed it in a number of scenes in the final episode of Squid Game.
Is this normal or is the projector defective?[


----------



## Jdel4278

Stinklez said:


> The port shouldn't have failed under ordinary use - which includes plugging things in and unplugging them - so you should be covered by warranty unless you were swinging it around on a cable or dropped it. Those ports are designed and specced for frequent switching and normal stresses shouldn't result in damage. Just be clear and polite and insist that it failed under ordinary stresses and you should be covered. Replacing the port itself would be nightmarish I suspect.
> 
> The fact that you were using another Samsung device shouldn't be relevant but doesn't hurt. You should mention that but the important thing to communicate is that you didn't drop or torque anything. Even if you tugged or pulled at something, that still shouldn't break it.


so I tried speaking to them and sent pictures of the cable and port but they said it wouldn’t be covered because it’s physical damage. Pretty unfortunate. They provided a couple authorized repair centers near me. Not looking forward to seeing how much this will cost. Thank you for your reply!


----------



## Genzi

djn2004 said:


> I’m noticing this now too. I‘m on my second LSP9T and didn’t notice it on my first one, but it could be I was watching the right content. Noticed it in a number of scenes in the final episode of Squid Game.
> Is this normal or is the projector defective?[



I've had it with mine since the beginning. These are reflections that come from the white border around the mirror. with the YouTube video you can reproduce it perfectly.






Dimming Test


----------



## Genzi




----------



## Dave Harper

Genzi said:


> View attachment 3188275
> View attachment 3188276
> View attachment 3188278


I reduced mine by making sure it was level and the screen flat and plumb, etc. Then I put a piece of black felt over the casing as far down into the lens area as I could without it going into the image.


----------



## JereyWolf

djn2004 said:


> I’m noticing this now too. I‘m on my second LSP9T and didn’t notice it on my first one, but it could be I was watching the right content. Noticed it in a number of scenes in the final episode of Squid Game.
> Is this normal or is the projector defective?[


I'm guessing that everyone has this problem. It's most obvious when you have very dark content at the bottom center of the screen and bright content above it. It's very annoying...but it might just be the nature of UST projection. I hope that I'm wrong about that.


----------



## djn2004

JereyWolf said:


> I'm guessing that everyone has this problem. It's most obvious when you have very dark content at the bottom center of the screen and bright content above it. It's very annoying...but it might just be the nature of UST projection. I hope that I'm wrong about that.


Yeah, 99.9% of the time it’s not an issue, but man is it distracting when it happens. I’ll reach out to Samsung to see what they have to say.



Dave Harper said:


> I reduced mine by making sure it was level and the screen flat and plumb, etc. Then I put a piece of black felt over the casing as far down into the lens area as I could without it going into the image.


Would love to see a picture of the felt setup if you have one. I think I have everything about as level as I can get it, but my image is slightly concave at the top and bottom (slight dip in the middle). Could be the screen is slightly out of plumb? Dunno.


----------



## Stinklez

Jdel4278 said:


> so I tried speaking to them and sent pictures of the cable and port but they said it wouldn’t be covered because it’s physical damage. Pretty unfortunate. They provided a couple authorized repair centers near me. Not looking forward to seeing how much this will cost. Thank you for your reply!


I don't know what consumer protections you have in your location - but almost everywhere - physical damage - if caused simply by using the item appropriately should be fully covered. If you weren't doing anything crazy when it happened, obviously some phycial component was compromised or failed. That's not your fault. Using a car as an example, if a piston rod ejected itself from your brand new V8 while cruising at 55mph, that would be physical damage - I know it's exhausting and possibly futile, but it's always worth trying to_ talk to another agent_ -- in fact - when I get a rude or unhelpful agent and I know I'm in the right, I now just hang up, start again and hope for a polite or helpful agent - they won't care -- and without lying, tell them that the unit no longer works when you connect anything to that HDMI port - get them to organize a return and let them see the physical problem when it gets there rather than giving the CS agent an "out" - they are trained and incented to take the side of the company - and typically aren't very knowledgeable about either your full consumer rights or the technology itself. Often your Projector "specialist" is just getting off a chat about a washing machine (another Samsung device where MOST warranty issues would be in some way physical and caused by normal use...).


----------



## Stinklez

Got everything working perfectly yesterday - new Projector, new screen, even wrestled absolutely infuriating Amazon Echo Studio and Sub into working as an Atmos home theater with a 4k FireTV stick as the source (sixth time's the charm...). I tested out a gang of content - was hoping Apple's famously generous bitrates would deliver, but for some reason it's the only FireTV app that doesn't show resolution and content metadata through the Samsung "i" menu.

Watched Dune at IMAX last night and the plan is to watch it again on HBO Max tonight. Anyone seen it and have any impressions to report on streaming quality?

Most of the content I tried looked fantastic - but for some reason, 13 Assassins on Amazon Prime looked extremely dark and weirder still - was showing what looked like interlaced scan lines tearing in the image - I'm wondering if anyone has seen this on other media. Also occurs to me now that it might have been 1080p being upscaled badly.

And this being a replacement Premiere, I noticed that my discrete HDMI settings didn't in fact transfer from my prior unit's settings, so I had to go through and unfuck everything again. Be nice if it could update all the app passwords too but I guess they can't access that info by design (as opposed to say an apple keychain/password manager).


----------



## JereyWolf

djn2004 said:


> Yeah, 99.9% of the time it’s not an issue, but man is it distracting when it happens. I’ll reach out to Samsung to see what they have to say.


Great, let us know! Most of my interactions with them have been pretty worthless. I've never been able to speak to anyone at Samsung with technical knowledge about the projector.


----------



## Fox2

I got the LSP9T few days back. I have 120" screen and watch from around 12ft away. The projector in all modes, including movie and filmmaker seems very bright and blinding! Any suggestions on how I could reduce the brightness without losing much picture quality? The whites and other bright colors are.... Very bright!


----------



## SaulP

Stinklez said:


> Watched Dune at IMAX last night and the plan is to watch it again on HBO Max tonight. Anyone seen it and have any impressions to report on streaming quality?


I watched the first half last night on my HT (BenQ LK990, Panamorph, Stewart 120” CinemaScope, HBO Max through my Shield.) It was beautiful. 

I just bought the LSP9T for another setup and am looking forward to seeing how it compares. Please let us know what you think. I know I’m going to miss the widescreen awesomeness that a Panamorph gives you, but the convenience of being able to hide a 120” home theater PJ/Screen setup in a low profile cabinet is pretty great.


----------



## JereyWolf

Fox2 said:


> I got the LSP9T few days back. I have 120" screen and watch from around 12ft away. The projector in all modes, including movie and filmmaker seems very bright and blinding! Any suggestions on how I could reduce the brightness without losing much picture quality? The whites and other bright colors are.... Very bright!


Lower contrast and set color temperature more towards warm, that should help reduce the eye strain.


----------



## Fox2

Lowered it to 0 in filmmaker mode. Still very bright whites. Tried reducing RGB gains to -30 each and seem much better, but now the image is completely flat and loss of detail. Any recommendations on settings/calibration?

On other note, I'm thinking to return this for a VAVA Croma which has ALPD 4.0. Does anyone here have opinions around which of these two are better?


----------



## JereyWolf

Fox2 said:


> Lowered it to 0 in filmmaker mode. Still very bright whites. Tried reducing RGB gains to -30 each and seem much better, but now the image is completely flat and loss of detail. Any recommendations on settings/calibration?
> 
> On other note, I'm thinking to return this for a VAVA Croma which has ALPD 4.0. Does anyone here have opinions around which of these two are better?


I know this isn't something easy like tweaking a setting, but a negative gain screen would lower brightness... probably significantly.


----------



## Dave Harper

Or get a square ND (Neutral Density) filter such as this one, or whichever size fits and the density you’d prefer:

K&F Concept 100mm ND8 (3-Stop) Square Filter Ultra Slim HD 20 Layer Neutral Density Optical Glass Compatible https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NXY3LQK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3W70YK8XJKSX4FDFM3YH


----------



## JereyWolf

Stinklez said:


> Watched Dune at IMAX last night and the plan is to watch it again on HBO Max tonight. Anyone seen it and have any impressions to report on streaming quality?


I just got back from seeing Dune at an AMC IMAX theater. I have to say...after spending the last year with the LPS9T....the theater visual experience was really disappointing (I hadn't been to a theater in two years).

I think the LSP9T has better blacks and shadow detail, better color and way better motion handling. I'm really pumped to watch the movie at home when the disc is released.


----------



## Fox2

Thanks! I will try it. Do you just take this filter and put it on during dark room viewing, or does it permanently stay on the projector?


----------



## JereyWolf

Genzi said:


> I've had it with mine since the beginning. These are reflections that come from the white border around the mirror. with the YouTube video you can reproduce it perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dimming Test


I think I made some progress with this.
I used a mousepad to cover up part of the lens. Covering the lense slightly is what makes the difference here. See the attached photos.
Without:







With:







Slightly covering the lens without blocking the image:


----------



## greg9840

I just got an LSP9T and will be setting it up shortly. I was wondering, is there a way to hook up an external subwoofer and possibly other external speakers by hooking up directly to the projector without having to set up a receiver/amp? Can I use the internal speakers as a center channel while using external speakers without a receiver? I may just hook up only a subwoofer first to see how it sounds.


----------



## Dave Harper

Fox2 said:


> Thanks! I will try it. Do you just take this filter and put it on during dark room viewing, or does it permanently stay on the projector?


I’ve never actually tried it but have always thought about it, but I do like a bright, punchy image. 

I would think if you get one large enough you can just lay it on top across the lens opening, making sure it covers the entire image area.


----------



## Stinklez

SaulP said:


> I watched the first half last night on my HT (BenQ LK990, Panamorph, Stewart 120” CinemaScope, HBO Max through my Shield.) It was beautiful.
> 
> I just bought the LSP9T for another setup and am looking forward to seeing how it compares. Please let us know what you think. I know I’m going to miss the widescreen awesomeness that a Panamorph gives you, but the convenience of being able to hide a 120” home theater PJ/Screen setup in a low profile cabinet is pretty great.


I watched at a local (single) Laser IMAX - we booked the best four seats in the house - above and behind the handicapped companion breezeway - and it looked and sounded fantastic. Easily the most immersive movie I've seen in years. IMAX format and scale definitely added a (good) gimmicky aspect to the movie - which was the absolutely brilliantly crafted vertical scale of stuff - spaceships, buildings, the Harvester, Salusa Secundus - not only did the perfect CG and set integration create the sense of scale you only ever get from the best concept paintings - but the IMAX also added a slight psychological immersion as you scanned upwards because you can't quite take it all in once glance.

I worried that aspect would be _missing_ at home, even with 110 inch screen - but on the contrary - the more conventional aspect ratio made ther "Lawrence of Arabia" of it all created a sense of vast openness rather than the vertiginous bulk of IMAX - and it added a whole new aesthetic impression that I didn't get from IMAX - the feeling of being lost in a vast environment and at the mercy of the desert.

I watched at night on a somewhat ad-hoc Premiere setup in my living room- 110 inch black-backed Cinewhite screen but paired with an Amazon Echo Studio and sub - fake but crisp (cheap!) Atmos via FireTV/HBO Max - I had read TONS of complaints about the sound mixing on the home version so I'm not sure if I watched an updated file in response to what seemed like very legitimate complaints - or if the Echo Studio's Atmos was just good at separating the fields.

I didn't like how muted and soft it looked in either Movie or Filmmaker mode - and I did tinker with Dynamic and cut out all the ugly motion smoothing and other processing - just keeping the "torchy" Dynamic brightness and contrast - and I preferred how that looked, but I did eventually watch it properly in Filmmaker mode because I felt guilty.

I have a discrete Atmos setup, but my preferred setup for audio is and remains my Yamaha YSP5600 Atmos soundbar (and sub) - it's old, and I have to use an HDFury splitter to get Atmos and HDR at the same time, but it's still the best Atmos sound I've ever heard and I prefer it to the discretes. I think the fact that it STILL sells for MSRP is a good indication of the quality. I'll give that a shot next weekend and see how it feels and sounds, but I had NO issues with the mix on the Echo. It was glorious. Even made me consider getting a second studio to broaden the field. Although it's so effing buggy I'm not sure it's worth the effort (more or less have to set it up as a new speaker group every time).

As a matter of fact - at least until it's yanked from Streaming in November, or until I can buy it in 4k physical, this is my go-to test movie for Atmos and HDR demo/tuning. I absolutely loved it.

Caveat: I'm a huge Lynch Dune weirdo and I own every single format that movie comes in, including a PSP UMD I bought at a garage sale. I have the HD-DVD version and still keep my Xbox HD-DVD drive around for that and the odd laptop install. I love the 1984 movie. I think it's just as glorious in terms of costumes, set design and more, but yes, flawed, and controversial. It'll take me a month of two to decide which movie, warts and all, I prefer. Nostalgia is a helluva drug...


----------



## ghosthound

Finally picked one of these up for my house (the current sale made it too good to pass up). What is the best 120" screen to pair this up with (sub $2k please - cheaper is better of course)? It's going to be in a great room so light will be somewhat of an issue. I do plan on getting blackout curtains for the windows near the screen to provide some light mitigation and we mostly watch stuff at night anyway. Daytime use will be more casual background stuff so IQ isn't that important.


----------



## flam3of4nor

JereyWolf said:


> I'm guessing that everyone has this problem. It's most obvious when you have very dark content at the bottom center of the screen and bright content above it. It's very annoying...but it might just be the nature of UST projection. I hope that I'm wrong about that.


No I dont have it. At least with this video provided I cant reproduce it. I use the Elitescreen CLR screen. Is it only in a certain picture mode or contrast setting?


----------



## flam3of4nor

JereyWolf said:


> If anyone has the time to check something out on their projector, please watch a few seconds of this video starting at 1:59. YouTube video showing the effect
> *The video must be viewed in full screen.*
> 
> The attached GIF is a very clear example of the darkening/white balance shifting effect that happens for me (it's the most annoying thing about this projector), the slight zoom is due to my camera's auto focus but the camera's white balance is fixed. I'd really like to know whether it's a "feature" that's on all of our units....or a bug with my specific unit.
> 
> View attachment 3174683


I can see it with this video as well. Its strongest with standard picture mode and auto colorspace. with nativ colorspace its almost not visible and with dynamic picture mode and nativ color space its almost entirely gone. its more like guessing its there then.
To say true I think its normal. I think its the dynamic tone mapping the samsung does. Since dynamic tone mapping is always on with the samsung we cannot change it (and i probalbly would not since it is doing a really good job on general). You could try watching a hdr10+ movie on amazon and see if it happens cause the dynamic tone mapping should be turned of then and it should use the metadata of the movie.


----------



## flam3of4nor

justbenice said:


> Please see my test of that video. I think my LSP9T don't have this problems:


It also happens in yours. It depends on the picture settings that are applied how strong you see it. On yours its almost not visible but you can see it as well. I can also minimize it like that on mine.


----------



## JereyWolf

flam3of4nor said:


> No I dont have it. At least with this video provided I cant reproduce it. I use the Elitescreen CLR screen. Is it only in a certain picture mode or contrast setting?


I'm using a Grandview Dynamique UST/ALR screen. I'll have to check whether changing picture presets has any impact on this. 
I found a way to physically block it and posted here two days ago. 



flam3of4nor said:


> I can see it with this video as well. Its strongest with standard picture mode and auto colorspace. with nativ colorspace its almost not visible and with dynamic picture mode and nativ color space its almost entirely gone. its more like guessing its there then.
> To say true I think its normal. I think its the dynamic tone mapping the samsung does. Since dynamic tone mapping is always on with the samsung we cannot change it (and i probalbly would not since it is doing a really good job on general). You could try watching a hdr10+ movie on amazon and see if it happens cause the dynamic tone mapping should be turned of then and it should use the metadata of the movie.


That's a good idea! I'll look for something on Prime without letterboxing and test whether the shifting is happening.


----------



## flam3of4nor

JereyWolf said:


> I'm using a Grandview Dynamique UST/ALR screen. I'll have to check whether changing picture presets has any impact on this.
> I found a way to physically block it and posted here two days ago.
> 
> 
> That's a good idea! I'll look for something on Prime without letterboxing and test whether the shifting is happening.


You just have to check that it is HDR10+ content. You can see it in the menu of the lsp9t if it is hdr10+ (the picture mode button switches then to hdr10+)


----------



## flam3of4nor

JereyWolf said:


> I'm using a Grandview Dynamique UST/ALR screen. I'll have to check whether changing picture presets has any impact on this.
> I found a way to physically block it and posted here two days ago.
> 
> 
> That's a good idea! I'll look for something on Prime without letterboxing and test whether the shifting is happening.


By the way also TVs from Sony, Samsung and LG show this behaviour depending on the settings. It depends on the strategy how they dynamically improve the image. The difference is that on some TVs you can turn everything off and then it will not happen anymore. Nevertheless its very rare that turning off all improvements will produce an as good image as with turning some of them on. A subtitle in an image is like a highlight in the image showing up. To preserve a good contrast, blacklevel and shadow detail the automatic algorithm usually changes some parameters. That is completely normal and all good projectors and TVs do that. Maybe some of your curren LSP9T image parameters and settings make it just a bit more obvious than it should be and that is the reason why you see it quite strong.


----------



## ACE844

Chris Majestic just dropped his LSP9T vs Hisense l9g comparison:


----------



## flam3of4nor

ACE844 said:


> Chris Majestic just dropped his LSP9T vs Hisense l9g comparison:


Quite nice review even though like most UST reviews not very detailed. I wish some would do a 100% calibration and then compare units instead if just using some vivid or dynamic mode and compare. This is extremely inaccurate since the optimizers and settings of the projectors are not comparable at all. In the video for example the Samsung looks completely washed out whereas the Hisense has a complete green tinted image. That is not a good comparison. 
Nevertheless I like Chris and his reviews.


----------



## ACE844

flam3of4nor said:


> Quite nice review even though like most UST reviews not very detailed. I wish some would do a 100% calibration and then compare units instead if just using some vivid or dynamic mode and compare. This is extremely inaccurate since the optimizers and settings of the projectors are not comparable at all. In the video for example the Samsung looks completely washed out whereas the Hisense has a complete green tinted image. That is not a good comparison.
> Nevertheless I like Chris and his reviews.


Also interesting he mentioned that he couldn't get the claimed 4k/120 to work due to DLP chip limitations and that Hisense admitted as much yet their specs, manual, and even the HDMI ports list advertise that capability.


----------



## flam3of4nor

ACE844 said:


> Also interesting he mentioned that he couldn't get the claimed 4k/120 to work due to DLP chip limitations and that Hisense admitted as much yet their specs, manual, and even the HDMI ports list advertise that capability.


Yes but I think he is right. The DLP chips do not support 120Hz. The 0.47“ chip of the hisense works with a 4x pixel shift at 240hz. To make 120Hz possible it would need to do the pixel shift with 480Hz what is not possible with this chip…


----------



## JereyWolf

flam3of4nor said:


> You just have to check that it is HDR10+ content. You can see it in the menu of the lsp9t if it is hdr10+ (the picture mode button switches then to hdr10+)


So I've never seen the HDR 10+ symbol...and I tested a few shows that are supposed to have it, The Boys and Grand Tour.

Can anyone confirm seeing an HDR10+ symbol on their projector?

I can confirm the white balance is shifting with Grand Tour. This gif is form season 4 episode 1 around 2 minutes in.

(Open the gif to see animation)










flam3of4nor said:


> By the way also TVs from Sony, Samsung and LG show this behaviour depending on the settings. It depends on the strategy how they dynamically improve the image. The difference is that on some TVs you can turn everything off and then it will not happen anymore. Nevertheless its very rare that turning off all improvements will produce an as good image as with turning some of them on. A subtitle in an image is like a highlight in the image showing up. To preserve a good contrast, blacklevel and shadow detail the automatic algorithm usually changes some parameters. That is completely normal and all good projectors and TVs do that. Maybe some of your curren LSP9T image parameters and settings make it just a bit more obvious than it should be and that is the reason why you see it quite strong.


I don't think it's settings related for me. I noticed the white balance shifting the first day I set up the projector almost a year ago...I have changed my settings a lot over time. I can confirm the white balance shifting happens even in default picture presets with stock settings.


----------



## flam3of4nor

JereyWolf said:


> So I've never seen the HDR 10+ symbol...and I tested a few shows that are supposed to have it, The Boys and Grand Tour.
> 
> Can anyone confirm seeing an HDR10+ symbol on their projector?
> 
> I can confirm the white balance is shifting with Grand Tour. This gif is form season 4 episode 1 around 2 minutes in.
> 
> (Open the gif to see animation)
> View attachment 3189488
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think it's settings related for me. I noticed the white balance shifting the first day I set up the projector almost a year ago...I have changed my settings a lot over time. I can confirm the white balance shifting happens even in default picture presets with stock settings.


Here in the menu you see at the setting hdr10+ instead of just hdr. this is the expanse season 5. you need to use the prime stock app of the projector. not sure if it works with a firetv stick.


----------



## Artcore

Hi,
I recently invested in the lsp9t. If I decode the S/N correctly it is from January this year, so sales probably haven’t been great from the store I bought it from. I noticed the subtitles/menu colour shift pretty quickly. I’ve gone through a lot of these threads, but is still unsure if there is a conensus that this happends to all units, with some users just not noticing it? 
Also, when did Samsung update to the the new cover around the lense? Is it just cosmetics, or does it have an effect on the picture? I’m still within the period that I can return the unit, and was wondering if I should try to get an exchange for hopefully a newer production unit or just return it. However, my fear is that it will be another unit from January, since it seems that the shop has stock pilled up. Moreover, Samsung in Europe dosent have the lsp9t in stock on their website, maybe this means that an update to the product line is coming? Also given the recent price drops.


----------



## JereyWolf

flam3of4nor said:


> Here in the menu you see at the setting hdr10+ instead of just hdr. this is the expanse season 5. you need to use the prime stock app of the projector. not sure if it works with a firetv stick.



Thanks for showing this! I didn't even consider using the built in apps. 
I can confirm that I was getting HDR10+ on the Prime video app. I went to the same episode of Grand Tour again and unfortunately, immediately saw the color shifting.


----------



## JereyWolf

Artcore said:


> Hi,
> I recently invested in the lsp9t. If I decode the S/N correctly it is from January this year, so sales probably haven’t been great from the store I bought it from. I noticed the subtitles/menu colour shift pretty quickly. I’ve gone through a lot of these threads, but is still unsure if there is a conensus that this happends to all units, with some users just not noticing it?
> Also, when did Samsung update to the the new cover around the lense? Is it just cosmetics, or does it have an effect on the picture? I’m still within the period that I can return the unit, and was wondering if I should try to get an exchange for hopefully a newer production unit or just return it. However, my fear is that it will be another unit from January, since it seems that the shop has stock pilled up. Moreover, Samsung in Europe dosent have the lsp9t in stock on their website, maybe this means that an update to the product line is coming? Also given the recent price drops.


I think I've seen 5 total confirmations of white balance shifting now, including yours. If you're able to...I think you should return it and go for another unit. Just to see if it has the same problem. It might not be related to production timing, it may be unit to unit variation...or who knows, it may be an annoying "feature".


----------



## flam3of4nor

JereyWolf said:


> Thanks for showing this! I didn't even consider using the built in apps.
> I can confirm that I was getting HDR10+ on the Prime video app. I went to the same episode of Grand Tour again and unfortunately, immediately saw the color shifting.


Do you on general always see it with all content when you have subtitles on or just in some? Cause I was able to reproduce it with one of your videos but for me it is really 99.9% not there and we watch everything with subtitles on since we speak two different native languages at home.


----------



## JereyWolf

flam3of4nor said:


> Do you on general always see it with all content when you have subtitles on or just in some? Cause I was able to reproduce it with one of your videos but for me it is really 99.9% not there and we watch everything with subtitles on since we speak two different native languages at home.


I see it on a lot of different content...and very frequently. Subtitles trigger it, opening the projector menu triggers it, even an on screen graphic can trigger it. I was watching a lot of The Office when I first set up the projector and I was seeing it constantly then...I'm not sure what the trigger was in that show. 
For me, it's most obvious in skin tones because they get much more red...that's difficult to capture on camera. I used to call the effect cycling saturation...because it looked like the whole picture would get slight more red and saturated and it seemed to cycle on and off. I can manually trigger it with my PC connected by using MS paint and opening a white window over any picture background. 

One scenario where I think the effect is never triggered is when there is letterboxing...any non 16:9 content seems to be free of the shifting white balance.


----------



## flam3of4nor

JereyWolf said:


> I see it on a lot of different content...and very frequently. Subtitles trigger it, opening the projector menu triggers it, even an on screen graphic can trigger it. I was watching a lot of The Office when I first set up the projector and I was seeing it constantly then...I'm not sure what the trigger was in that show.
> For me, it's most obvious in skin tones because they get much more red...that's difficult to capture on camera. I used to call the effect cycling saturation...because it looked like the whole picture would get slight more red and saturated and it seemed to cycle on and off. I can manually trigger it with my PC connected by using MS paint and opening a white window over any picture background.
> 
> One scenario where I think the effect is never triggered is when there is letterboxing...any non 16:9 content seems to be free of the shifting white balance.


Do you have it while playing videogames (not sure if you do?)? I did not check your latest example which you postet, but i can do that maybe later. On general it is normal that such a thing can happen from time to time. You have it on TVs as well, but it should be rare…
I almost never have it.


----------



## avsenthusiast

flam3of4nor said:


> Do you on general always see it with all content when you have subtitles on or just in some? Cause I was able to reproduce it with one of your videos but for me it is really 99.9% not there and we watch everything with subtitles on since we speak two different native languages at home.


I know this question wasn't directed to me, but I will chime in because I am one of the "color shift" owners that saw this shift from Day 1 too. 

To answer the question, as @JereyWolf and I have documented extensively in previous posts, it's NOT just subtitles that are inducing the color / white balance shift. Any bright on-screen elements like OSD, and for me, sometimes if the scenes contain a big white patch, such as a window, backlight, strong light source etc, the shifts will happen like crazy.

"Burnt-in" subtitles are the worst offender, as they are often huge in size. The other day, my wife who normally has difficulty telling HD and 4K apart and who cannot understand what "shadow details" means, EVEN complained, "WHY DOES THE PROJECTOR KEEP SHIFTING COLORS?" 

In one way @flam3of4nor I am relieved to hear other manufacturers "have" this issue too (not sure how you gathered this info, because I haven't come across any Youtubers even mention this at all), but on the other hand this basic DTM flaw / design / firmware bug is horrendous. 

Even my chepeast TVs from 10s, 90s, 80s didn't have this issue. If this projector costs $2000, then probably I can "live" with it but not when it is priced this way.

I believe we have to make louder noises so Samsung can address this issue with better firmware, especially when testers in the Hisense H9G thread is reporting that projector doesn't exhibit this DTM issue, so I firmly believe the solution is in the firmware but without noises from owners, Samsung will certainly be too lazy and does not have any financial interests to address it. 

So I'd say to all those owners who are still in your return window, return them and keep exchanging based on what's permitted. As for existing owners, I am open to suggestions what other pressures we can assert aside from sharing our findings here.


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> I know this question wasn't directed to me, but I will chime in because I am one of the "color shift" owners that saw this shift from Day 1 too.
> 
> To answer the question, as @JereyWolf and I have documented extensively in previous posts, it's NOT just subtitles that are inducing the color / white balance shift. Any bright on-screen elements like OSD, and for me, sometimes if the scenes contain a big white patch, such as a window, backlight, strong light source etc, the shifts will happen like crazy.
> 
> "Burnt-in" subtitles are the worst offender, as they are often huge in size. The other day, my wife who normally has difficulty telling HD and 4K apart and who cannot understand what "shadow details" means, EVEN complained, "WHY DOES THE PROJECTOR KEEP SHIFTING COLORS?"
> 
> In one way @flam3of4nor I am relieved to hear other manufacturers "have" this issue too (not sure how you gathered this info, because I haven't come across any Youtubers even mention this at all), but on the other hand this basic DTM flaw / design / firmware bug is horrendous.
> 
> Even my chepeast TVs from 10s, 90s, 80s didn't have this issue. If this projector costs $2000, then probably I can "live" with it but not when it is priced this way.
> 
> I believe we have to make louder noises so Samsung can address this issue with better firmware, especially when testers in the Hisense H9G thread is reporting that projector doesn't exhibit this DTM issue, so I firmly believe the solution is in the firmware but without noises from owners, Samsung will certainly be too lazy and does not have any financial interests to address it.
> 
> So I'd say to all those owners who are still in your return window, return them and keep exchanging based on what's permitted. As for existing owners, I am open to suggestions what other pressures we can assert aside from sharing our findings here.


I just ordered another unit with the intention to return it after testing. I'll see if this other unit produces the same color shifting with identical input conditions.
If it does not have the color shift, I will send my original unit in for warranty "Repair".


----------



## flam3of4nor

avsscientist said:


> I know this question wasn't directed to me, but I will chime in because I am one of the "color shift" owners that saw this shift from Day 1 too.
> 
> To answer the question, as @JereyWolf and I have documented extensively in previous posts, it's NOT just subtitles that are inducing the color / white balance shift. Any bright on-screen elements like OSD, and for me, sometimes if the scenes contain a big white patch, such as a window, backlight, strong light source etc, the shifts will happen like crazy.
> 
> "Burnt-in" subtitles are the worst offender, as they are often huge in size. The other day, my wife who normally has difficulty telling HD and 4K apart and who cannot understand what "shadow details" means, EVEN complained, "WHY DOES THE PROJECTOR KEEP SHIFTING COLORS?"
> 
> In one way @flam3of4nor I am relieved to hear other manufacturers "have" this issue too (not sure how you gathered this info, because I haven't come across any Youtubers even mention this at all), but on the other hand this basic DTM flaw / design / firmware bug is horrendous.
> 
> Even my chepeast TVs from 10s, 90s, 80s didn't have this issue. If this projector costs $2000, then probably I can "live" with it but not when it is priced this way.
> 
> I believe we have to make louder noises so Samsung can address this issue with better firmware, especially when testers in the Hisense H9G thread is reporting that projector doesn't exhibit this DTM issue, so I firmly believe the solution is in the firmware but without noises from owners, Samsung will certainly be too lazy and does not have any financial interests to address it.
> 
> So I'd say to all those owners who are still in your return window, return them and keep exchanging based on what's permitted. As for existing owners, I am open to suggestions what other pressures we can assert aside from sharing our findings here.


its really weird… I am quite sure its a software issue on how he decides to change the image settings according to the content.
Nevertheless what you guys describe sounds really bad. For me this situation does not happen at all. On which firmware are you by the way?
I am on the 2012 I think (Germany)


----------



## flam3of4nor

JereyWolf said:


> So I've never seen the HDR 10+ symbol...and I tested a few shows that are supposed to have it, The Boys and Grand Tour.
> 
> Can anyone confirm seeing an HDR10+ symbol on their projector?
> 
> I can confirm the white balance is shifting with Grand Tour. This gif is form season 4 episode 1 around 2 minutes in.
> 
> (Open the gif to see animation)
> View attachment 3189488
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think it's settings related for me. I noticed the white balance shifting the first day I set up the projector almost a year ago...I have changed my settings a lot over time. I can confirm the white balance shifting happens even in default picture presets with stock settings.


I just checked your Grand Tour Example. Mine is not doing the color switch in this scene.


----------



## JereyWolf

flam3of4nor said:


> I just checked your Grand Tour Example. Mine is not doing the color switch in this scene.


Thanks again for checking.


----------



## Artcore

flam3of4nor said:


> its really weird… I am quite sure its a software issue on how he decides to change the image settings according to the content.
> Nevertheless what you guys describe sounds really bad. For me this situation does not happen at all. On which firmware are you by the way?
> I am on the 2012 I think (Germany)


I’m also on the 2012 firmware, also Europe, it came with that out of the box. I can relate with avssecientist, color shift is not only related to subtitles but also the menu and describing text (that is part of the original content, not subtitles)


----------



## bennutt

JereyWolf said:


> I just ordered another unit with the intention to return it after testing. I'll see if this other unit produces the same color shifting with identical input conditions.
> If it does not have the color shift, I will send my original unit in for warranty "Repair".


This was one of the things that annoyed me early on with trouble shooting… having an extra $6000 out of play while I swapped units around :/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JereyWolf

bennutt said:


> This was one of the things that annoyed me early on with trouble shooting… having an extra $6000 out of play while I swapped units around :/
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah...I really don't like having to shell out the money for it either but I really want to figure this out. 
I grabbed an open box unit from Amazon Warehouse (~$4300), which should have the holiday extended return window until the end of January. Hopefully plenty of time for warranty service to be completed if I go that route. 

The LSP9T is in my living room...I don't have a backup display and Samsung originally told me it could be 4 weeks to complete service...so I think going this route is my best option.


----------



## avsenthusiast

flam3of4nor said:


> its really weird… I am quite sure its a software issue on how he decides to change the image settings according to the content.
> Nevertheless what you guys describe sounds really bad. For me this situation does not happen at all. On which firmware are you by the way?
> I am on the 2012 I think (Germany)


I am on v2012.

Some owners have updated to 2012.1 but this firmware has been pulled from US & Canada sites. Hopefully Samsung is working on a new version to fix all these issues.

In any case, I don't think it's related to settings because I have tried painstakingly tried EVERY single setting I can toggle on this projector but the color shift is insane.


----------



## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> Yeah...I really don't like having to shell out the money for it either but I really want to figure this out.
> I grabbed an open box unit from Amazon Warehouse (~$4300), which should have the holiday extended return window until the end of January. Hopefully plenty of time for warranty service to be completed if I go that route.


What a brilliant idea! I am going to order from Amazon to take advantage of the extended return window too because this is my only 4k display right now. 



JereyWolf said:


> The LSP9T is in my living room...I don't have a backup display and Samsung originally told me it could be 4 weeks to complete service...so I think going this route is my best option.


With holiday season and staff shortage everywhere, 4 weeks is optimistic, so buying a unit from Amazon and holding it until Jan 31 is a perfect way to stick it to Samsung.


----------



## JereyWolf

Dave Harper said:


> Have you tried game mode along with RGB Low?
> 
> The best way to describe the improvements in game mode is just that the image seemed so much cleaner, more three dimensional, sharper, less jaggies, colors were tamed. It just so much less “processed” to me. It just seemed to defeat all the crappy “features” built into TVs like this and it allowed the Dolby Vision LLDV processing to really shine and show what makes it so great!
> 
> You should also combine it with turning on HGiG. I’m not 100% sure if and what it’s doing in this scenario, but it appears to me that it does, when combined with the AppleTV. Maybe try that to see if it helps the color shift too? idk, grasping at straws for you now I guess.


Last night while I was working on calibration for my SDR Game Mode....I had a few surprising finds. 

With all settings equal between standard Movie mode and Game Movie mode, my D65 calibrated 100% white measurement increased from 52 nits to 63 nits with game mode active. I thought this was pretty interesting so I moved on to attempt HDR Game Movie mode calibration. 

In game mode, white balance controls are limited to two-point, which was fine to get my grayscale delta E to ~1.0. The more interesting thing about HDR game mode is that the gamma and shadow detail settings seem to have a different starting level compared to non-game mode. I've been using Dune on HBO Max, specifically the scene near the end of the movie where the sand worm emerges in front of Paul, to check my low light/shadow detail. This segment is very dark and when I saw it in the IMAX theater it was completely void of detail (much better image from the LSP9T). I feel that the HDR Game mode is giving me better shadow detail than non-game mode. 

Conclusion for now....I'll leave game mode active all the time.


----------



## IDAnonymous

ghosthound said:


> Finally picked one of these up for my house (the current sale made it too good to pass up). What is the best 120" screen to pair this up with (sub $2k please - cheaper is better of course)? It's going to be in a great room so light will be somewhat of an issue. I do plan on getting blackout curtains for the windows near the screen to provide some light mitigation and we mostly watch stuff at night anyway. Daytime use will be more casual background stuff so IQ isn't that important.


What is the current sale price? Since it's no longer available at greentoe, it's probably ok to talk about the price. I heard that it was $3200 at greentoe (tax included in $3200 price). Anybody buy it at that price?


----------



## stfidel

IDAnonymous said:


> What is the current sale price? Since it's no longer available at greentoe, it's probably ok to talk about the price. I heard that it was $3200 at greentoe (tax included in $3200 price). Anybody buy it at that price?


A colleague at work bought one from Greentoe at that $3200 price after someone posted it on facebook.. Didnt believe him too until he sent me a screenshot.....


----------



## IDAnonymous

stfidel said:


> A colleague at work bought one from Greentoe at that $3200 price after someone posted it on facebook.. Didnt believe him too until he sent me a screenshot.....
> 
> View attachment 3191026


I think word got around since it is now sold out. I was thinking about it but ended up keeping my the vava chroma order instead since it was cheaper and I needed a screen. I also wanted 3D. Got to use madvr for DTM. I hope I don't regret going the cheaper route...


----------



## Dave Harper

JereyWolf said:


> Last night while I was working on calibration for my SDR Game Mode....I had a few surprising finds.
> 
> With all settings equal between standard Movie mode and Game Movie mode, my D65 calibrated 100% white measurement increased from 52 nits to 63 nits with game mode active. I thought this was pretty interesting so I moved on to attempt HDR Game Movie mode calibration.
> 
> In game mode, white balance controls are limited to two-point, which was fine to get my grayscale delta E to ~1.0. The more interesting thing about HDR game mode is that the gamma and shadow detail settings seem to have a different starting level compared to non-game mode. I've been using Dune on HBO Max, specifically the scene near the end of the movie where the sand worm emerges in front of Paul, to check my low light/shadow detail. This segment is very dark and when I saw it in the IMAX theater it was completely void of detail (much better image from the LSP9T). I feel that the HDR Game mode is giving me better shadow detail than non-game mode.
> 
> Conclusion for now....I'll leave game mode active all the time.


I agree. I’ve been reporting to use Game Mode for nearly a year now(not necessarily here). Nobody ever seemed to listen. 

Pairing that with the HDFury LLDV Dolby Vision tweak takes it to another level for HDR and DV viewing.


----------



## stfidel

Dave Harper said:


> I agree. I’ve been reporting to use Game Mode for nearly a year now(not necessarily here). Nobody ever seemed to listen.
> 
> Pairing that with the HDFury LLDV Dolby Vision tweak takes it to another level for HDR and DV viewing.


Can you explain the HDfury LLDV dolby vision tweak and also the type of HD fury you use?


----------



## bennutt

stfidel said:


> Can you explain the HDfury LLDV dolby vision tweak and also the type of HD fury you use?


There are entire threads dedicated to HDFury. I use a Vertex2. Essentially it creates a fake HDMI identifier, allowing your sources to believe the Samsung is a Dolby Vision capable television. That means devices like Apple TV will detect that and send over Dolby Vision content in all of its 12 bit dynamic tone mapped glory. So will the Oppo for 4K discs.

The vertex device allows you to customize that identifier with every detail, like max luminance or even rec.709 vs bt2020 color profiles.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

stfidel said:


> Can you explain the HDfury LLDV dolby vision tweak and also the type of HD fury you use?


Here is a post I just made last night that’s a good place to begin, and then I share my latest settings discovery:



Dave Harper said:


> You can start here, but I’d move towards the end of the thread for the most recent settings. I’m about to share some amazing new settings. The best ever since I discovered this tweak and shared it with the world a couple years ago. I wasn’t able to post here again until recently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...
> 
> 
> Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on Projectors? This is a HDFury DV LLDV EDID exploit of the Dolby Vision Profile 5 layer included in the DV spec for display manufacturers and models like the Sony A1 OLED. This thread is duplicating Dave's experience using the HDFury Vertex...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically now you just go to the HDFury GUI’s HDR/AVI tab and input a 10,000 nit max luminance setting for Custom HDR and check “Use custom HDR when input is LLDV” checkbox , then go to the Dolby Vision tab and input whatever your display or projector’s max luminance reading is, in nits and select a BT2020 color gamut.
> 
> Under the EDID tab you check to use Automix and then check the Custom DV String box.
> 
> This gives great DTM for ANY source after you set the white clipping point to something extreme using a scene like The Meg chapter 8 (clouds) and Aquaman chapter 6 (large round window detail).


Here are some HDFury devices which work well and allow you to customize the various metadata, EDID and DV Data Block settings, which are essential to maximizing what this solution can provide:

Vertex2, Diva, Maestro, Arcana, VRRoom

You’d have to go to the HDFury website to see which fits your needs best.


----------



## DunMunro

Sparechange reviews the LSP9T:


----------



## humax

Why does he not mention anything about speckle and color shifting?


----------



## flam3of4nor

humax said:


> Why does he not mention anything about speckle and color shifting?


Cause color shifting is a fault on only some units. My unit does not have it.


----------



## DunMunro

humax said:


> Why does he not mention anything about speckle and color shifting?


Maybe he didn't notice it or find it to be an issue?


----------



## humax

DunMunro said:


> Maybe he didn't notice it or find it to be an issue?


When almost every buyer of this machine talks about speckle being an issue, I find it hard to believe. Anyway, I only use these YouTube videos as a secondary reference now. I pay much more attention to what everyday users have to say about their experience with a projector. Much more trustworthy!


----------



## DunMunro

humax said:


> When almost every buyer of this machine talks about speckle being an issue, I find it hard to believe. Anyway, I only use these YouTube videos as a secondary reference now. I pay much more attention to what everyday users have to say about their experience with a projector. Much more trustworthy!


I searched for 'speckle' in this thread and it's far from being a universal issue. Many owners who see it are not bothered by it, just as it doesn't bother me when viewing my HU810, even though I can sometimes see it, especially in static images with lots of pastel reds.


----------



## ACE844

He does reference speckle and does describe what it looks like towards the beginning of the video.


----------



## DunMunro

ACE844 said:


> He does reference speckle and does describe what it looks like towards the beginning of the video.


Can you give a timestamp for that?


----------



## ACE844

DunMunro said:


> Can you give a timestamp for that?


Chromatic Abberation mentioned at 18:24
RBE mentioned at 19:30
In regards to speckle, I either seem to have misremembered when I posted and posted wrongly or the video was edited from when it was first posted. I watched it the first time right after it was posted here and a few hrs after the 1st upload. I'm not sure if there's a way to check and see the edit upload changes of a channel? At the time I remembered the speckle being discussed either at the time of screen gain or just about the end where he commented on RBE. In going back and rewatching the YT clip a couple of times I was unable to find that quick comment on speckle. So I guess I was wrong there. Laser Speckle is mentioned in the comments and the only short reply was none.


----------



## badcatsclaws

Genzi said:


> My LSP9T is now fully assembled and I am very satisfied! the picture is a 135 inch ALR canvas!
> View attachment 3107267
> View attachment 3107268


Thank you for the images, nice setup but black levels look terrible. Black bars so bright even though it's in a Dark room. So it must be PJ rather than screen.


----------



## DunMunro

badcatsclaws said:


> Thank you for the images, nice setup but black levels look terrible. Black bars so bright even though it's in a Dark room. So it must be PJ rather than screen.


Note the white walls. The black bars will show grey because of all the light being reflected back to the screen.


----------



## vulture

I recently got an LSP9T, I have it hooked up to both an ATV 4k 2021 and an FTV 4k through a vertex2. I had a couple of questions/observations:
1. With both ATV and FTV enabled for DV and sending LLDV to the LSP9T, the FTV seems to give a brighter more color rich picture - the LSP9T is projecting on a white wall with settings below.
2. In certain scenes that are dark I seem to have faint green blob in the middle towards the bottom of the screen - seems to be some sort of reflection from the lens. I was under the impression that Samsung changed the design of the lens on later batches - anyone know more about this?
3. I have seen the color shift with subtitles but it only seems to happen in SDR or non-LLDV modes.

This is what I use for settings (which I copied from somewhere):
Filmmaker mode
Contrast: 20
Sharpness: 5
Color: 25
Tint: G9
Picture clarity: off
Contrast enhancer: off
Color tone: warm2
White balance: 2 point: r-gain: -10 (others 0)
The rest as default. 

Cheers

Val


----------



## Dave Harper

vulture said:


> I recently got an LSP9T, I have it hooked up to both an ATV 4k 2021 and an FTV 4k through a vertex2. I had a couple of questions/observations:
> 1. With both ATV and FTV enabled for DV and sending LLDV to the LSP9T, the FTV seems to give a brighter more color rich picture - the LSP9T is projecting on a white wall with settings below.
> 2. In certain scenes that are dark I seem to have faint green blob in the middle towards the bottom of the screen - seems to be some sort of reflection from the lens. I was under the impression that Samsung changed the design of the lens on later batches - anyone know more about this?
> 3. I have seen the color shift with subtitles but it only seems to happen in SDR or non-LLDV modes.
> 
> This is what I use for settings (which I copied from somewhere):
> Filmmaker mode
> Contrast: 20
> Sharpness: 5
> Color: 25
> Tint: G9
> Picture clarity: off
> Contrast enhancer: off
> Color tone: warm2
> White balance: 2 point: r-gain: -10 (others 0)
> The rest as default.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Val


I would try Game Mode if you’re using LLDV.


----------



## vulture

djn2004 said:


> I’m noticing this now too. I‘m on my second LSP9T and didn’t notice it on my first one, but it could be I was watching the right content. Noticed it in a number of scenes in the final episode of Squid Game.
> Is this normal or is the projector defective?[


I noticed it on mine too and once you see it it's hard not to look for it. Definitely not UST-tech specific, I also have a bomaker polaris 3 laser unit next to the samsung with not hint of the green blob.


----------



## vulture

Could anyone with a recently manufactured unit (May onwards) post of photo of the updated lens assembly? I am trying to figure out if the green blob/reflections in dark scenes are eliminated in the more recent units. I have tried the "mouse pad/felt" solutions suggested earlier in the thread but still have the issue. 
BTW, I have a unit from March '21 with a CA01 revision. Thanks

Val


----------



## JereyWolf

vulture said:


> Could anyone with a recently manufactured unit (May onwards) post of photo of the updated lens assembly? I am trying to figure out if the green blob/reflections in dark scenes are eliminated in the more recent units. I have tried the "mouse pad/felt" solutions suggested earlier in the thread but still have the issue.
> BTW, I have a unit from March '21 with a CA01 revision. Thanks
> 
> Val


Mine also says CA01 and I purchased in November 2020. I'm going to pick up my second unit from UPS now. I should be able to give an update soon on whether all of the main problems are visible on this unit as well too. I'm hoping this one will have the new lens cover.


----------



## JereyWolf

I set up my second unit and set it up next to my original unit via HDMI splitter. This new unit has a manufacturing date of October 2020. *Please keep in mind, the colors in my images are not close to how it looks in-person.* The "set-up reference" was captured before doing any picture settings adjustments, it's for reference only. After matching all picture settings on the new unit to be the same as my original unit I tested some of the scenes that I know trigger the white balance shifting effect. Right away I could see it's not present on the new unit. The gif attached shows the shift, but it doesn't look the same as it does in person. I've explained this before...when captured on my camera, the white balance shifting is mostly visible as the image darkening. I was able to see why this darkening happens by continuously measuring an 80% test pattern in HCFR using an X-rite i1 display pro.

The attachments shows my continuous measurements of an 80% test pattern while cycling the projector home menu off and on. Not shown in the attachments is the ~1.7 nit average drop that occurred with my original unit when the menu was open. I set up the colorimeter about 4 inches from the screen angled upward roughly 15 degrees, about 16 inches above the menu display.
With my original unit, when the menu is open I measure a ~0.5% gain to green, ~1% drop in red and ~2% drop in blue.
With the new unit there was no significant change when the menu was open.

This data matches what was reported by @avmagazine " I also point out *a couple of* rather 'depressing' ' *bugs* '. The first concerns *white calibration* : once you enter the menu, the red and blue components drop by a few percentage points: for calibration you are forced to enter and exit the menu each time and this is annoying."
https://www.avmagazine.it/articoli/4K/1533/supertest-samsung-trilaser-lsp9t_6.html


----------



## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> With the new unit there was no significant change when the menu was open.


The above post contains most definitive test done so far by @JereyWolf to prove once and for all:

1. not all LSP9T units are created equal

2. those of us seeing the color shift defect* are not imagining it, as many prominent testers and reviewers have been saying

* We can finally conclusively say this is a "defect" in some units after months of speculation, arguing, wondering, discussing whether this is user settings, firmware, or hardware issue. But I know there will be some who will still argue that "even" this is a "unit-specific" issue, it can still be addressed by new firmware. True, but since Samsung has not publicly acknowledged this "defect," and has not mentioned anything forthcoming in firmware to address this "defect", then I think it's basically a "defect."

Question: How does Samsung get away with this kind of defect on a flagship model when there are lesser value things with a lesser problem that get elevated to class action?



JereyWolf said:


> With my original unit, when the menu is open I measure a ~0.5% gain to green, ~1% drop in red and ~2% drop in blue.


Answer: I guess Samsung's lawyers will argue that, these are small changes in gain and colors that "most of our average consumers" won't notice in "normal" use cases so they are within our "tolerance guidelines." Will you be happy with this kind of response if you are an owner of LSP9T, just hypothetically wondering?


----------



## flam3of4nor

avsscientist said:


> The above post contains most definitive test done so far by @JereyWolf to prove once and for all:
> 
> 1. not all LSP9T units are created equal
> 
> 2. those of us seeing the color shift defect* are not imagining it, as many prominent testers and reviewers have been saying
> 
> * We can finally conclusively say this is a "defect" in some units after months of speculation, arguing, wondering, discussing whether this is user settings, firmware, or hardware issue. But I know there will be some who will still argue that "even" this is a "unit-specific" issue, it can still be addressed by new firmware. True, but since Samsung has not publicly acknowledged this "defect," and has not mentioned anything forthcoming in firmware to address this "defect", then I think it's basically a "defect."
> 
> Question: How does Samsung get away with this kind of defect on a flagship model when there are lesser value things with a lesser problem that get elevated to class action?
> 
> 
> 
> Answer: I guess Samsung's lawyers will argue that, these are small changes in gain and colors that "most of our average consumers" won't notice in "normal" use cases so they are within our "tolerance guidelines." Will you be happy with this kind of response if you are an owner of LSP9T, just hypothetically wondering?


I wrote already several month ago in this thread that it is not normal and my unit does not have the issue with the color shift with subtitles and menues.
So just send it in for repair to Samsung and thats it.
What are you talking about lawyers. Just give Samsung a chance to fix it.


----------



## vulture

JereyWolf said:


> With my original unit, when the menu is open I measure a ~0.5% gain to green, ~1% drop in red and ~2% drop in blue.
> With the new unit there was no significant change when the menu was open.


Thanks for posting these results. I do have the color shift also on my 03/21 unit visible with subtitles turned on, however, with the vertex2 everything (SDR, etc) gets translated to LLDV (ATV/FTV) and with native color space set on the projector I cannot see it. BTW, is the firmware version the same between the two projectors?
My bigger issue that is making me consider sending the projector back for a refund, is the green blob in dark scenes from the lens reflections. Does your new unit have that issue at all and is the lens different?


----------



## flam3of4nor

vulture said:


> Thanks for posting these results. I do have the color shift also on my 03/21 unit visible with subtitles turned on, however, with the vertex2 everything (SDR, etc) gets translated to LLDV (ATV/FTV) and with native color space set on the projector I cannot see it. BTW, is the firmware version the same between the two projectors?
> My bigger issue that is making me consider sending the projector back for a refund, is the green blob in dark scenes from the lens reflections. Does your new unit have that issue at all and is the lens different?


Also the green lense reflection is not present on all units. Mine does not have it.


----------



## avsenthusiast

flam3of4nor said:


> So just send it in for repair to Samsung and thats it.
> What are you talking about lawyers. Just give Samsung a chance to fix it.


Hi @flam3of4nor first of all, I’d like to thank you for your active contributions to this owner’s thread and this online Community is a better place because of members like you who share observations and sharing. So thank you.

Unfortunately, I do find your use of words like “just” and “that’s it” quite dismissive to me, maybe to other owners of this defect too, who have had to ensure this sub-standard image quality and this constantly shifting color balance for quite some time. not to mention the potential delays, accidents and the lack of an interim display device associated with the projector “repair” process.

I for one, do not have a spare TV or funds to buy an alternative display device while this unit is being “repaired,” even though the option of buying and returning to Amazon is available, at the risk of being “blacklisted” by Amazon. Lastly, my comment about lawyers was a hypothetical/curiosity one, please don’t misinterpret it.

All I ask is more empathy for those are suffering with defective units and the challenges associated with testing, returning, finding replacement/interim display devices while the unit is sent in for an unknown and extended periods of time.

I look forward to more contributions from you in the future and as I said I learned a lot from many of your posts about LSP9T in the past so thank you again for that. Lastly if I had also misinterpreted any of your words I apologize in advance.


----------



## flam3of4nor

avsscientist said:


> Hi @flam3of4nor first of all, I’d like to thank you for your active contributions to this owner’s thread and this online Community is a better place because of members like you who share observations and sharing. So thank you.
> 
> Unfortunately, I do find your use of words like “just” and “that’s it” quite dismissive to me, maybe to other owners of this defect too, who have had to ensure this sub-standard image quality and this constantly shifting color balance for quite some time. not to mention the potential delays, accidents and the lack of an interim display device associated with the projector “repair” process.
> 
> I for one, do not have a spare TV or funds to buy an alternative display device while this unit is being “repaired,” even though the option of buying and returning to Amazon is available, at the risk of being “blacklisted” by Amazon. Lastly, my comment about lawyers was a hypothetical/curiosity one, please don’t misinterpret it.
> 
> All I ask is more empathy for those are suffering with defective units and the challenges associated with testing, returning, finding replacement/interim display devices while the unit is sent in for an unknown and extended periods of time.
> 
> I look forward to more contributions from you in the future and as I said I learned a lot from many of your posts about LSP9T in the past so thank you again for that. Lastly if I had also misinterpreted any of your words I apologize in advance.


I fully agree that it is frustrating and I also agree that the product seems to have several quality control issues. So I can understand that you‘re not happy at all.
I just do not think its fair to talk about lawyers cause you were unlucky with your unit.
I also believe that we still do not know how many units have such an issue from all units that were sold. Maybe we have just a few unlucky people in this thread. Usually people who are happy with everything do not post much. Mine by the way also has some issue which I never even mentioned here. Mine is changing the image alignemt sometimes. So out of a sudden the image is a bit overlapping on the edges of the screen, cause my manual correction was forgotten or changed. I decided not to exchange the unit for exactly the reason that the quality control seems not to be good and I do not want to get a unit in exchange with some of the other flaws in image quality. Overall mine has a very good image with all the major flaws not present on it.
With the flaw you seem to have I would definately send it in.


----------



## JereyWolf

vulture said:


> Thanks for posting these results. I do have the color shift also on my 03/21 unit visible with subtitles turned on, however, with the vertex2 everything (SDR, etc) gets translated to LLDV (ATV/FTV) and with native color space set on the projector I cannot see it. BTW, is the firmware version the same between the two projectors?
> My bigger issue that is making me consider sending the projector back for a refund, is the green blob in dark scenes from the lens reflections. Does your new unit have that issue at all and is the lens different?


I did these tests with firmware 1470 and 2012 on the old unit same result each firmware. 
The other unit also shows the green hot spotting and it does not have the newer lens cover. 

Comparing the two units, speckle and chromatic aberration were about the same. Rainbow effect if basically a non-issue for me now...so I really couldn't evaluate it. 

I'm going to send my original unit for "service".


----------



## JereyWolf

With my second LSP9T, I ran into an annoying alignment problem. 
With the two leveling feet adjusted to make the vertical edges straight...then the projector pulled away from the wall to fit the left and right sides of the screen....the top of the screen is too high and the bottom is also too high. 
...it's almost as if the throw ratio is off or something...not sure if that's possible from a physical defect??


----------



## greg9840

JereyWolf said:


> With my second LSP9T, I ran into an annoying alignment problem.
> With the two leveling feet adjusted to make the vertical edges straight...then the projector pulled away from the wall to fit the left and right sides of the screen....the top of the screen is too high and the bottom is also too high.
> ...it's almost as if the throw ratio is off or something...not sure if that's possible from a physical defect??


I have run into a similar issue but the problem is that the projector projects the image fairly high above itself. I have 8 1/2 feet of wall below my crown molding and doing a 130" diagonal image puts the image at the very top of the wall, just under the crown molding. My console is around 22" tall. You may need a low console for the projector to sit on to get the bottom and top of the image in the right place. I am going to get an 18" tall console so I can move the image down 7 inches.


----------



## ACE844

ACE844 said:


> Chromatic Abberation mentioned at 18:24
> RBE mentioned at 19:30
> In regards to speckle, I either seem to have misremembered when I posted and posted wrongly or the video was edited from when it was first posted. I watched it the first time right after it was posted here and a few hrs after the 1st upload. I'm not sure if there's a way to check and see the edit upload changes of a channel? At the time I remembered the speckle being discussed either at the time of screen gain or just about the end where he commented on RBE. In going back and rewatching the YT clip a couple of times I was unable to find that quick comment on speckle. So I guess I was wrong there. Laser Speckle is mentioned in the comments and the only short reply was none.
> View attachment 3191628


@DunMunro
I figured out the issue. Chris Majestic discusses Laser speckle at approx 3:15 and 8:34 in his L9G vs LSP9T comparison video.


----------



## JereyWolf

greg9840 said:


> I have run into a similar issue but the problem is that the projector projects the image fairly high above itself. I have 8 1/2 feet of wall below my crown molding and doing a 130" diagonal image puts the image at the very top of the wall, just under the crown molding. My console is around 22" tall. You may need a low console for the projector to sit on to get the bottom and top of the image in the right place. I am going to get an 18" tall console so I can move the image down 7 inches.


I have a low console set up. In this post I'm talking specifically about a second LSP9T that I got for testing. My screen and console height were based on the dimensions from the manual, 15.8" below the screen for 120" image. It works perfectly with my original unit....but the newer unit I got is projecting that 120" diagonal image about an inch higher than my original unit.


----------



## jorgebetancourt

I have a friend that bought this projector.. Can the hdfury be used for lldv on this projector?


----------



## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> I have a low console set up. In this post I'm talking specifically about a second LSP9T that I got for testing. My screen and console height were based on the dimensions from the manual, 15.8" below the screen for 120" image. It works perfectly with my original unit....but the newer unit I got is projecting that 120" diagonal image about an inch higher than my original unit.


Not all units are created equal? Quality control issues? Maybe this is considered "within tolerance or acceptable sample variation?" Hard to say.


----------



## JereyWolf

jorgebetancourt said:


> I have a friend that bought this projector.. Can the hdfury be used for lldv on this projector?


Yes, it works. @Dave Harper has posted extensively about his experience with it. 
I have also used it for lldv with the LSP9T.


----------



## jorgebetancourt

JereyWolf said:


> Yes, it works. @Dave Harper has posted extensively about his experience with it.
> I have also used it for lldv with the LSP9T.


Excellent thank you. Do u have to upload a custom curve or u use the one in the projector..

Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

jorgebetancourt said:


> I have a friend that bought this projector.. Can the hdfury be used for lldv on this projector?


With the right HDFury and source device, any HDR10 capable display can do LLDV Dolby Vision. 



JereyWolf said:


> Yes, it works. @Dave Harper has posted extensively about his experience with it.
> I have also used it for lldv with the LSP9T.





jorgebetancourt said:


> Excellent thank you. Do u have to upload a custom curve or u use the one in the projector..
> 
> Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk


You don’t use custom curves on the LSP9T. Depending on what Max Luminance setting you use in the HDF, that dictates which ST2084 level in the LSP9T you should use. I use 10,000 nits max luminance so I set my ST2084 level to -3. For 1,000 nits I’d use the default of 0. 

Every setup is different though, so some tweaking and experimenting is warranted.


----------



## vulture

JereyWolf said:


> I have a low console set up. In this post I'm talking specifically about a second LSP9T that I got for testing. My screen and console height were based on the dimensions from the manual, 15.8" below the screen for 120" image. It works perfectly with my original unit....but the newer unit I got is projecting that 120" diagonal image about an inch higher than my original unit.


Just a hypothesis, but perhaps the new lens assembly on the recent unit is shifted up by design. BTW, would it be possible to post a photo of the new lens assembly? thx


----------



## JereyWolf

vulture said:


> Just a hypothesis, but perhaps the new lens assembly on the recent unit is shifted up by design. BTW, would it be possible to post a photo of the new lens assembly? thx


I wish mine was a newer manufactured unit....mine second unit was actually produced in October 2020...and my original unit was produced in September 2020.

I'm also hoping that the "service" I sent mine in for results in me getting back a projector with the newer lens cover.


----------



## vulture

JereyWolf said:


> I wish mine was a newer manufactured unit....mine second unit was actually produced in October 2020...and my original unit was produced in September 2020.
> 
> I'm also hoping that the "service" I sent mine in for results in me getting back a projector with the newer lens cover.


I hope for the same - just initiated a service request for my March 2021 unit, mainly due to to the green hot-spotting.


----------



## avsenthusiast

vulture said:


> I hope for the same - just initiated a service request for my March 2021 unit, mainly due to to the green hot-spotting.


I'm sending mine in today too, for color shift issue. Good luck to us all!

I wonder how many units need to be sent in before Samsung takes notice, or maybe they already did.


----------



## WhiteRabbit2004

Hey guys, I just picked up a LSP9T and I’m considering the Vividstorm floor screen. I saw some people had good luck, and others not so much. Anyone care to share details?


----------



## am2model3

funny you ask; i got a vividstorm floor screen for my lsp9t; but am about a few weeks away from testing it. = )


----------



## WhiteRabbit2004

am2model3 said:


> funny you ask; i got a vividstorm floor screen for my lsp9t; but am about a few weeks away from testing it. = )


Did you order from their site or Amazon? Also, how long is the delivery time?


----------



## avsenthusiast

For those who are interested, or thinking of sending in your LSP9T for whatever issues, here is my LSP9T "repair" experience so far for the color shift defect:

Yesterday a "Samsung authorized repair center" called "Elink Electronics Service Center" in Ontario received my LSP9T
Today the status on the online ticketing changed to "Repair in progress"
Notes show "We have ordered the necessary parts for your repair"
There is no estimated date of completion
I have emailed the service center for "details" of their diagnosis since their email is provided by Samsung and their voicemail says they will reply to emails
they haven't replied to my email yet

Speculations, questions and observations:

From the ultra-short troubleshooting time, it SEEMS Samsung or the service center actually knows about this defect
However, there is no indication of arrival time of the parts, actual repair time when the parts arrive, so I might still be in for a lengthy wait
There is no telling either on how this "service center" will handle my unit during repair
Will this process introduce scratches, lint, dust etc into the compartments inside?
From the online ticketing, multiple "parts" have been ordered, what exactly are those parts?
How well does the service center pack up the box when it's time for shipping back?
Will the shipping process knock anything out of alignment again?
How susceptible are these UST projectors to being knocked out of alignment during shipping process?


----------



## jbernardi

My LSP9T does not recognize my Sony 880 4K player. Any advice?


----------



## greg9840

I just got my LSP9T and it randomly makes buzzing noises. If I put my hands on the unit the buzzing stops. So I think the plastic enclosure of the projector is maybe a little loose? Has anyone else experienced this?


----------



## avsenthusiast

jbernardi said:


> My LSP9T does not recognize my Sony 880 4K player. Any advice?


Have you tried putting an AVR between the player nad LSP9T? Different HDMI port and cable?


----------



## avsenthusiast

greg9840 said:


> I just got my LSP9T and it randomly makes buzzing noises. If I put my hands on the unit the buzzing stops. So I think the plastic enclosure of the projector is maybe a little loose? Has anyone else experienced this?


I haven't heard any noise from my unit before. In fact, it's so dead quiet from my viewing distance it is a winning feature for me. 

Buzzing noise is not a good sign.


----------



## Fogyreef

Is there a way to connect the LSP9T to an external Alexa device, or are we only able to use the remote voice control? I'd like to open an app on the projector without needing the remote in hand.


----------



## jbernardi

avsscientist said:


> Have you tried putting an AVR between the player nad LSP9T? Different HDMI port and cable?


A different cable worked.


----------



## jbernardi

I received my LSP9T three days ago.

I'm projecting against a light grey wall and I'm very happy with it. I know a UST screen would be an improvement, but it's pretty great as it is.

I've watched 4K movies, football, soccer and ice hockey.


----------



## jbernardi

I am concerned that the horizontal opening for the lasers might be a dust collector.

Is anyone protecting that area with some sort of cover when it is not in use?


----------



## avsenthusiast

jbernardi said:


> I am concerned that the horizontal opening for the lasers might be a dust collector.
> Is anyone protecting that area with some sort of cover when it is not in use?


Mine collected a lot of dust over 3 months of use. So periodically I use a blower to get rid of the dust, but it's probably a good idea to use a lens cleaner to get rid of stuck-on dust. I haven't had time to investigate if the laser assembly is sealed, hopefully dust doesn't get inside which may or may not produce undesirable outcomes.


----------



## nsaeey

jbernardi said:


> I am concerned that the horizontal opening for the lasers might be a dust collector.
> 
> Is anyone protecting that area with some sort of cover when it is not in use?


Wondering about this as well. Was hoping someone designed a 3D printed cover but couldn't find any.


----------



## JereyWolf

jbernardi said:


> I am concerned that the horizontal opening for the lasers might be a dust collector.
> 
> Is anyone protecting that area with some sort of cover when it is not in use?


I have two dogs that are dust generating machines....so I get a lot of dust on the surface of the lens cover.
I wipe it off periodically with a lens cloth...but I can never see a visual impact from the dust, a hair on the lens is a different story.


----------



## jorgebetancourt

Hi can this projector be used in a controlled light room and what's the cheapest 120 inch screen we can buy. My friend bought this I'm kind of helping him out..

Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk


----------



## am2model3

the vividstorm is cheaper if you order direct from them; shipping was around 2-3 weeks maybe.


----------



## jorgebetancourt

am2model3 said:


> the vividstorm is cheaper if you order direct from them; shipping was around 2-3 weeks maybe.


Are these ambient light rejecting screens? 

Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

jorgebetancourt said:


> Hi can this projector be used in a controlled light room…...
> 
> Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk


Yes, I used it like that for quite awhile. I think it’s best that way actually because then you can avoid those ALR screens that wreak havoc with the speckle and kills its brightness and laser color intensity. The white spandex I used was awesome when paired with the LSP9T.


----------



## jorgebetancourt

Dave Harper said:


> Yes, I used it like that for quite awhile. I think it’s best that way actually because then you can avoid those ALR screens that wreak havoc with the speckle and kills its brightness and laser color intensity. The white spandex I used was awesome when paired with the LSP9T.


Hi Dave this projector is for a friend of mines I'm just trying to help him.. Can you recommend and cheap screen for it. Once he gets the projector running in a few weeks I'll ask u about setting up lldv..

Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

jorgebetancourt said:


> Hi Dave this projector is for a friend of mines I'm just trying to help him.. Can you recommend and cheap screen for it. Once he gets the projector running in a few weeks I'll ask u about setting up lldv..
> 
> Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk


I haven’t had the opportunity to test this on any ALR screens as of yet. Hopefully soon though. I recommend you talk to @ProjectionHead who has done this and is a screen expert!


----------



## avsenthusiast

Dave Harper said:


> Yes, I used it like that for quite awhile. I think it’s best that way actually because then you can avoid those ALR screens that wreak havoc with the speckle and kills its brightness and laser color intensity. The white spandex I used was awesome when paired with the LSP9T.


@Dave Harper it's really interesting that you and another community member @The Original K Dogg in the LG HU810P thread both use unconventional and "economical" screens to get the best results. He tested like 45 screen materials to find one that has the least speckle and best gain.

I am beginning to sense that screen performance is very device specific, so these mass market generic "ALR/CLR" or even premium screens may not be appropriate to all models? If true, this would make finding an optimal screen challenging, so for now I am sticking with a normal 1.0 gain plain white non-ALR non-CLR screen which I am not seeing any speckles and getting maximum brightness on.


----------



## avsenthusiast

Repair/Nightmare update: 

Received an email from Samsung Authorized Service Center today for my LSP9T. In the email, they said "the parts needed are not available from Samsung."

This is what I predicted all along. How do they repair hardware defect unless the whole imaging unit is taken out and reinstalled, that's assuming the repair centre can get perfect alignment. 

This is weeks without the only display device I have. Luckily my dealer is kind enough to loan me an LG HU810P in the meantime, but it's not UST and cannot reach 130" given my space limitation. 

According to the email, basically I am waiting now for someone from Samsung to contact me directly about an "exchange to similar model or a depreciated refund." 

Note they are not even offering exchange to the same model which is saying something. Even if they offer to exchange to the same unit, I would make sure that I can get a refund again if I get another defective unit.

A refund sounds nice but depreciated? How much do you all think a depreciated refund amount from Samsung is fair? 5% less than what I paid? 10%? 15%? 20%?


----------



## am2model3

vividstorm screens are regular or ALR. I am doing non-ALR in light controlled room. Picked it because it is tensioned.


----------



## 3sprit

avsscientist said:


> A refund sounds nice but depreciated? How much do you all think a depreciated refund amount from Samsung is fair? 5% less than what I paid? 10%? 15%? 20%?


In Europe, all the money you paid to buy it…


----------



## Dave Harper

avsscientist said:


> @Dave Harper it's really interesting that you and another community member @The Original K Dogg in the LG HU810P thread both use unconventional and "economical" screens to get the best results. He tested like 45 screen materials to find one that has the least speckle and best gain.
> 
> I am beginning to sense that screen performance is very device specific, so these mass market generic "ALR/CLR" or even premium screens may not be appropriate to all models? If true, this would make finding an optimal screen challenging, so for now I am sticking with a normal 1.0 gain plain white non-ALR non-CLR screen which I am not seeing any speckles and getting maximum brightness on.


Yes it is very interesting. What I observed is that I think with the spandex, especially when used with a UST shining from below, is that it seems to capture, absorb and “glow/radiate” the laser light, rather than with a standard screen which reflects the laser light, mostly to the ceiling. I think it’s the reflection of the light that makes the speckle appear more. With the spandex and how it is capturing and absorbing the light, the speckle is greatly reduced.


----------



## djn2004

vulture said:


> I hope for the same - just initiated a service request for my March 2021 unit, mainly due to to the green hot-spotting.


@vulture curious if you heard from Samsung about the green blob issue? I’m still trying to figure out how best to deal with mine.


----------



## vulture

djn2004 said:


> @vulture curious if you heard from Samsung about the green blob issue? I’m still trying to figure out how best to deal with mine.


Short story, I sent my back for a refund since I was still within the 30 day return period even though I got the super deal from greentoe that was posted in Oct. Long story, I spent hours on the phone with Samsung who took a bunch of details down and were supposed to create a support/service ticket (because the website did not allow to provide a reason code for the LSP9T). They generally did not appear to know anything about the product and kept on being confused as to why I was talking about light leaking from the lens if this was a TV??!! Subsequently, I heard nothing from them and a ticket was not created, I realized that it was going to be a long haul to get it serviced (had a march 2021 unit). I also had the color shift issue with subtitles even though I was mostly using it with LLDV (vertex 2) and a native color space. In the end I can get pretty close to the results with the bomaker I have and the vertex 2 (black levels not as good) for nearly half the price.


----------



## humax

vulture said:


> In the end I can get pretty close to the results with the bomaker I have and the vertex 2 (black levels not as good) for nearly half the price.


Besides blacks being better on the Samsung, did you also notice any actually visible sharpness difference due to the use of the 0.66" dmd vs the 0.47" one in the Polaris? TIA!


----------



## vulture

humax said:


> Besides blacks being better on the Samsung, did you also notice any actually visible sharpness difference due to the use of the 0.66" dmd vs the 0.47" one in the Polaris? TIA!


Sharpness seems the same for normal watching (10' distance from a 100' Vava ALR screen), with the menu displayed and close up the LSP9T is slightly sharper. Note that the bomaker is fixed focus but optimized for 100-110".


----------



## Fogyreef

jorgebetancourt said:


> Hi can this projector be used in a controlled light room and what's the cheapest 120 inch screen we can buy. My friend bought this I'm kind of helping him out..
> 
> Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk


The LSP9T can be used in my family room at high noon with two skylights, a slider and two windows wide open. It's completely watchable. Not the best during dark scenes, but for news, sports and gaming it's full lights on. Obviously it will be washed out to a degree, but it's soooo much better than my older long throw pj. At night it's amazing. Woulda never thought the same crisp focus and geometry could be had at such extreme angles, but I'm a big fan.

When I upgraded to the LSP9T I left in place my $300 Silver Ticket 120" matte white screen. 1.1 gain. My only regret is I can't stretch it to 130". I can't imagine a CLR screen would improve the picture without adding artifacts, or $2000 to the price. Any improvement certainly wouldn't be worth the money, imho. The only fault is my older screen has the bigger black velvet border. It stands out from the screen 1/2" or so. Due to the angle of the projection, it leaves a 1/2" blank shadow on the bottom of the screen. Maybe the newer version of the Silver Ticket with a smaller frame won't have that issue. Since you're not looking at the bottom of the screen you never notice it. Just blends with the frame.


----------



## WhiteRabbit2004

Just curious, have any of you installed the Discovery Plus app? Mine is running terribly slow on the Home Screen, to the point of being unusable. All other apps work perfectly fine, it’s just Discovery Plus. I’m on the latest firmware, tried reinstalling, cleared data, cleared cache, and I’m using an Ethernet cable with high speed internet. Still it is running ridiculously slow. Anyone else experiencing this?


----------



## avsenthusiast

WhiteRabbit2004 said:


> Just curious, have any of you installed the Discovery Plus app? Mine is running terribly slow on the Home Screen, to the point of being unusable. All other apps work perfectly fine, it’s just Discovery Plus. I’m on the latest firmware, tried reinstalling, cleared data, cleared cache, and I’m using an Ethernet cable with high speed internet. Still it is running ridiculously slow. Anyone else experiencing this?


Sorry I haven't used any of the stock apps so can't answer this. But the whole OS is slow in general with clicks and navigation, it's probably an app Samsung hasn't optimized, and there hasn't been a firmware update for ages so I am seriously wondering if Samsung is actually putting much effort into "improving" this product via firmware.


----------



## jonwye

donbraxton said:


> Earlier I was projecting on to a wall with 150". Now I am projecting on to a gray screen with 140". I dont see any issue with image sharpness/brightness but since the room has light colored walls, the black level and contrast is not as good as pairing with a UST ALR screen. This is a temporary setup, the plan is to install lsp9t in a dedicated home theatre. See my earlier post for more pics.


Wanted to clarify if you have a moment. I have been looking to find a 150 UST 3 laser and paired with a UST motorized screen. Found the screen, but all the ceiling mount 150" UST projectors come up short in some way. I was looking to get the Samsung 3 laser but it only goes to 130". Are you saying you've tested at 150" and don't notice much loss? I'm contemplating taking the plunge on the more expensive Samsung if I can get it to 150"


----------



## Frankis

avsscientist said:


> Sorry I haven't used any of the stock apps so can't answer this. But the whole OS is slow in general with clicks and navigation, it's probably an app Samsung hasn't optimized, and there hasn't been a firmware update for ages so I am seriously wondering if Samsung is actually putting much effort into "improving" this product via firmware.



I just got my lsp9t with black friday, and today i noticed the first time the color shifting at netflix 4k. Such a bummer. Googled at color shifting lsp9t and found this tread.. i cant unsee it unfortunatly. Going to look for another brand now and return this


----------



## avsenthusiast

Frankis said:


> I just got my lsp9t with black friday, and today i noticed the first time the color shifting at netflix 4k. Such a bummer. Googled at color shifting lsp9t and found this tread.. i cant unsee it unfortunatly. Going to look for another brand now and return this


Yes the color shifting is the most annoying thing I have ever experienced on a display device. 

If possible, could you take a picture or share the production date code? We should be keeping track of these codes to get a sense whether it's a specific production batch that is affected or if Samsung has fixed it in newer units, or maybe even regional.


----------



## Frankis

avsscientist said:


> Yes the color shifting is the most annoying thing I have ever experienced on a display device.
> 
> If possible, could you take a picture or share the production date code? We should be keeping track of these codes to get a sense whether it's a specific production batch that is affected or if Samsung has fixed it in newer units, or maybe even regional.


Maybe there are different versions ? Because most people that do not have it.

My version is : CA01
And modelcode : sp-l9TFAXXN

Production date i can not find, my region is Europe.

Its very clear to see at the skin colours, once you know. It is hard to unsee it. I tried to swap to yellow subtitles and make it smaller, that worked. But once i changed it to regular size, it had the same problem but less then completely white.

Also tried netflix from pc but quality not good and even worse shifting.

I guess the firmware is not working probaly with the lasers when there is white needed its recalibrating both 3 lasers everytime at the whole screen.

Not the first time a samsung product is failing to do something what should be needed to fix. Bought the soundbar with rearspeakers before. And the rearspeakers only worked at certain movie with dolby atmos. no 5 speaker mode available for spotify example.. getting more tired of samsung quality everytime


----------



## Frankis

Is there a way to see how many hours this lsp9t has run ? I just got it a couple days and if returning it with several hours the price of item will be worth less the shop say..

I cant find this in the menu but do those laser units have a tracking in the menu?


----------



## jonwye

Has anyone tried to project their lsp9t onto a 150" screen. I know the specs say 130" but could it be a matter of just moving the projector further back and dealing with a little image loss? Also for anyone looking for UST screens I found two companies that make a motorized 150" UST ALR screen...









In-Ceiling ALR Screen - AR


ALR UST Projector Screen for Wemax, Xiaomi, Vava, LG, Epson, SAMSUNG, Sony...4K Laser projector home theatre system



www.samsav.com













In-Ceiling Electric Projector Screen Home Theater | XY screen


Find tab tensioned projector screen Factory? Specialized in Tab-tensioned Motorized Projection Screen HCL1 Series, diy tab tension projector screen.




www.xyscreen.com


----------



## avsenthusiast

jonwye said:


> Has anyone tried to project their lsp9t onto a 150" screen. I know the specs say 130" but could it be a matter of just moving the projector further back and dealing with a little image loss? Also for anyone looking for UST screens I found two companies that make a motorized 150" UST ALR screen...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In-Ceiling ALR Screen - AR
> 
> 
> ALR UST Projector Screen for Wemax, Xiaomi, Vava, LG, Epson, SAMSUNG, Sony...4K Laser projector home theatre system
> 
> 
> 
> www.samsav.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In-Ceiling Electric Projector Screen Home Theater | XY screen
> 
> 
> Find tab tensioned projector screen Factory? Specialized in Tab-tensioned Motorized Projection Screen HCL1 Series, diy tab tension projector screen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.xyscreen.com


Thanks for the links. Like you I am looking for a motorized 130" that doesn't induce speckles hopefully these manufacturers provide samples. 

If I had the time, I would look into using the spandex material @Dave Harper recommended and somehow turn it into a motorized screen, but work is so busy, sigh..


----------



## avsenthusiast

Frankis said:


> Maybe there are different versions ? Because most people that do not have it.
> 
> My version is : CA01
> And modelcode : sp-l9TFAXXN
> 
> Production date i can not find, my region is Europe.
> 
> Its very clear to see at the skin colours, once you know. It is hard to unsee it. I tried to swap to yellow subtitles and make it smaller, that worked. But once i changed it to regular size, it had the same problem but less then completely white.
> 
> Also tried netflix from pc but quality not good and even worse shifting.
> 
> I guess the firmware is not working probaly with the lasers when there is white needed its recalibrating both 3 lasers everytime at the whole screen.
> 
> Not the first time a samsung product is failing to do something what should be needed to fix. Bought the soundbar with rearspeakers before. And the rearspeakers only worked at certain movie with dolby atmos. no 5 speaker mode available for spotify example.. getting more tired of samsung quality everytime


@Frankis welcome to this forum. Here is the page that may help you identify your production date: Samsung Date Codes

At this point, I don't think it's just the firmware. Because I sent my "defective" unit in, and Samsung service center gave up on fixing it and said just to exchange to a brand new unit. 

I would strongly urge you not to waste time sending in for service and straight away go get an exchange. Perhaps with worldwide reporting of many people exchanging units they will finally fix this flaw with a new model or firmware (if it's even possible). 

I totally agree with you, it's a defect that you cannot "unsee" and can easily notice on the first day of using it. The problem was, when I bought mine, I thought it's a calibration or settings issue, but many have proven in this thread and other threads that it's not a settings issue.

Even with the changing subtitles to yellow workaround that I posted here, over time, you will notice that it's not just the subtitles causing color shifts, any bright spots or patches of brightness in a scene will induce this color shift. 

There are people who manage to get good units though so maybe it's just about luck and patience by exchanging it multiple times? But do we really want to spend our money to play this Samsung lottery?


----------



## Frankis

avsscientist said:


> @Frankis welcome to this forum. Here is the page that may help you identify your production date: Samsung Date Codes
> 
> At this point, I don't think it's just the firmware. Because I sent my "defective" unit in, and Samsung service center gave up on fixing it and said just to exchange to a brand new unit.
> 
> I would strongly urge you not to waste time sending in for service and straight away go get an exchange. Perhaps with worldwide reporting of many people exchanging units they will finally fix this flaw with a new model or firmware (if it's even possible).
> 
> I totally agree with you, it's a defect that you cannot "unsee" and can easily notice on the first day of using it. The problem was, when I bought mine, I thought it's a calibration or settings issue, but many have proven in this thread and other threads that it's not a settings issue.
> 
> Even with the changing subtitles to yellow workaround that I posted here, over time, you will notice that it's not just the subtitles causing color shifts, any bright spots or patches of brightness in a scene will induce this color shift.
> 
> There are people who manage to get good units though so maybe it's just about luck and patience by exchanging it multiple times? But do we really want to spend our money to play this Samsung lottery?



Samsung admitted the triple lasers are very sensitive and they will change it for a new one, they are aware of the problem. and i can try it untill my alr screen comes around end of the month.. so i guess a good deal, and hopefully the next one doesnt have it. I really hope so. I captured a video of the color shifting just 5 times in 15 seconds. Hopefully it will be send to samsam. Will update here if the new one give any changes

Yea its a lottery but in my country there is no better one, or one that comes close to it. Wish the hisense l9g was available here and i would take it over samsam any day.


----------



## avsenthusiast

Frankis said:


> Samsung admitted the triple lasers are very sensitive and they will change it for a new one, they are aware of the problem.


Where did you get this information? According to my dealer, the Samsung reps in Canada are avoiding and evading this question by not giving direct answers, so your insights are appreciated.



Frankis said:


> Yea its a lottery but in my country there is no better one, or one that comes close to it. Wish the hisense l9g was available here and i would take it over samsam any day.


Hisense is available to us now in Canada and it's actually cheaper than LSP9T too. I am seriously thinking about switching to it if my replacemnt unit still has this problem.

But then Hisense L9G also has so many complaints about its HDR problems which is giving me pause:








Hisense L9G Wins Value Electronics UST Shootout


just wait for the new laser epson that coming on 2022. The Hisense has no comparison with my epson 5050ub. Completely depends on your room, but I'm not sure why you'd go for a UST if you have a room that is very light controlled anyways.




www.avsforum.com





What convinces you that Hisense is better?


----------



## JereyWolf

Frankis said:


> Samsung admitted the triple lasers are very sensitive and they will change it for a new one, they are aware of the problem. and i can try it untill my alr screen comes around end of the month.. so i guess a good deal, and hopefully the next one doesnt have it. I really hope so. I captured a video of the color shifting just 5 times in 15 seconds. Hopefully it will be send to samsam. Will update here if the new one give any changes
> 
> Yea its a lottery but in my country there is no better one, or one that comes close to it. Wish the hisense l9g was available here and i would take it over samsam any day.


I'm glad to hear you could get a direct exchange. I've been waiting 3.5 weeks for my repair and every time I call Samsung to ask for an update they point a finger and blame the service center.


----------



## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> I'm glad to hear you could get a direct exchange. I've been waiting 3.5 weeks for my repair and every time I call Samsung to ask for an update they point a finger and blame the service center.


That's horrible finger pointing. 

I seriously hope they will send you back the defective unit to get an exchange from dealer somewhere or straight away provide you with a replacement unit immediately.


----------



## Frankis

avsscientist said:


> Where did you get this information? According to my dealer, the Samsung reps in Canada are avoiding and evading this question by not giving direct answers, so your insights are appreciated.
> 
> 
> Hisense is available to us now in Canada and it's actually cheaper than LSP9T too. I am seriously thinking about switching to it if my replacemnt unit still has this problem.
> 
> But then Hisense L9G also has so many complaints about its HDR problems which is giving me pause:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hisense L9G Wins Value Electronics UST Shootout
> 
> 
> just wait for the new laser epson that coming on 2022. The Hisense has no comparison with my epson 5050ub. Completely depends on your room, but I'm not sure why you'd go for a UST if you have a room that is very light controlled anyways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What convinces you that Hisense is better?


The dealer that i bought it from told me about their contact with samsung. Havent spoken to samsung about it directly. But mine will be replaced as defect at arrival, because it basicly it does not what it should do. I just had it a few days..

My expierence with samsung arent that good, so i wouldnt choose samsung exept for the phones. As the l9g and samsung get compared at yt they are quite in the same range. If it was available here i would have bought it. But havent checked the problems with that beamer either. I guess all of them have pro and cons. Hopefully they will envolve in the future to better ones...


----------



## BayAreaFan

Dave Harper said:


> u mind sharing exactly what you have as your exact settings in every device (AppleTV, Vertex2, LSP9T, etc)? I always tweak and adjust so just curious where you’re at with your screen compared to my “po’ boy” spandex sheet from Jo-Ann Fabric!


https://www.joann.com/imagine-opaque-white-poly-spndx/12955423.html is what @Dave Harper is talking about. $25/yard (need 4 yards for a 120" 16:9)


----------



## BirdBare

@Dave Harper Do you use a dual layer of the spandex or a black layer behind it? I'm really interested in trying this.


----------



## avsenthusiast

I am wondering where I can get a ~120" long "roll" thingy that has hooks on both ends so maybe I can hang it on the ceiling and just manually retract the screen when needed.

At $14.99 per yard and if 4 pieces are all is needed, this would be the "best value" retractable screen even existed, taking into account probably another $100-$200 for the "roll", hooks and mounts etc.

Also, maybe there is some way I can re-use the mechanism of my current motorized screen and then just somehow attach the spandex to the whole thing, this is assuming I don't turn the whole contraption into one big crumbled mess when I roll up 😂


----------



## BayAreaFan

avsscientist said:


> I am wondering where I can get a ~120" long "roll" thingy that has hooks on both ends so maybe I can hang it on the ceiling and just manually retract it when needed.
> 
> This would be a very interesting project.
> 
> And if there is some way I can keep the motor of my current motorized screen and then just somehow attach the spandex to the mechanism.


Very much interested in the DIY Spandex.

I had used AV Outlet: Home Theater Supplies, Shades and Shade Components, more than 15 years ago to get a motorized roller screen using the Sheerweave which is an AT material.

Things have come a long way since then  but the website still seems to be active!

Found the post with the pictures of my DIY








Electric DIY Screens


Hey BayAreaFan... not to rain on your parade / idea with the motor and stuff, but if you are relatively in-experienced in the DIY and have limited tooling, I wouldn't jump out and spend what I consider "big money" on a motor just yet. Although the DIY electric is relatively straight forward...




www.avsforum.com





New Home, New Projector, the same DIY itch. But I am 16 years older and can't slide into the attic anymore!


----------



## WhiteRabbit2004

I ordered a 120” Severtson Screens motorized UST floor screen. I’ll provide details if anyone is interested when it arrives.


----------



## Bang321

Is anyone here using the LSP9T with an UST screen larger than 120"? I've been running an Epson LS100 on a Viewsonic BCP120 UST 120" screen for the last 4 years now and always wished my screen was just a bit larger. I finally bit the bullet on the Samsung (should be here soon!). I recently noticed that Aliexpress is starting to carry some larger screens all the way up to 150! I've been hoping maybe to bump up to 130 or even 133.

Here is the item description for the screen: 

Item name：80-150 inch 16:9 T Prism UST ALR Fixed Frame Screen Ambient Light Rejecting Projection Screen for Wemax Fengmi 4K Laser Projector UST CLR / ALR narrow Frame Projection Screen for laser projector.
Type of fabric: UST CLR/ ALR with 0.85 gain at 178° viewing angle. Multi-layer T Prism fabric with a directional reflective coating.


----------



## Dave Harper

BirdBare said:


> @Dave Harper Do you use a dual layer of the spandex or a black layer behind it? I'm really interested in trying this.


Currently only have it with a single layer, but will eventually be testing it with the black spandex behind it. Also considering either another white layer or even possibly some form of grey or silver in between.


----------



## WhiteRabbit2004

So I reached out to Discovery support to try to figure out why my Discovery+ app is running so poorly. They suggested I test the connection speed via the Samsung browser using the Ookla Speed site and connected via ethernet cable directly to the router (I disconnected everything else). I tested the speed and for some reason the projector only reached 15-20mbs where my tv, pc, laptop, phones, everything else is hitting close to 500 when tested. I did a factory reset on the LSP9T and it didn't help, still the slow ethernet speed. Any ideas why this would happen?


----------



## avsenthusiast

WhiteRabbit2004 said:


> So I reached out to Discovery support to try to figure out why my Discovery+ app is running so poorly. They suggested I test the connection speed via the Samsung browser using the Ookla Speed site and connected via ethernet cable directly to the router (I disconnected everything else). I tested the speed and for some reason the projector only reached 15-20mbs where my tv, pc, laptop, phones, everything else is hitting close to 500 when tested. I did a factory reset on the LSP9T and it didn't help, still the slow ethernet speed. Any ideas why this would happen?


Some possibilities: 

Bandwidth shaping by MAC ID set on the router?

have you tried different Ethernet port on the router?

have you swapped Ethernet cables?

Have you speed tested Wi-Fi connection?

try CAT6?


----------



## BayAreaFan

Dave Harper said:


> Currently only have it with a single layer, but will eventually be testing it with the black spandex behind it. Also considering either another white layer or even possibly some form of grey or silver in between.


Hi Dave:

Due to WAF factors, this has to be a rolling screen. Wife is extremely uncomfortable with this giant screen on the wall.

Have you tried Spandex on a roller or is it just fixed frame?

And if I have to go the conventional route, is the VividStorm/ScreenPro the best way to go for a roll-up/roll-down UST screen?


----------



## avsenthusiast

Just received my brand new replacement LSP9T unit manufactured in July, 2021 and..

🥁*.... It still has the same Color Shift defect*



Frankis said:


> Samsung admitted the triple lasers are very sensitive and they will change it for a new one, they are aware of the problem.


If this insider information is true, it's interesting how Samsung can continue to sell this model. The only explanation I can think of is they will admit "it's a poor design on all units, so it's not defect on some isolated units" 



Frankis said:


> hopefully the next one doesnt have it. I really hope so.


I hope for you too, because apparently Hisense L9G has HDR issues and LG HU85LA has inferior blacks, so LSP9T still has the best IQ of these models, for now.



Frankis said:


> I captured a video of the color shifting just 5 times in 15 seconds. Hopefully it will be send to samsam. Will update here if the new one give any changes


While I was waiting for my "LSP9T" exchange, I used the LG HU810P and re-discovered the immense pleasure of NOT seeing color shifts, which makes it such a natural cinematic experience on everything. 

LSP9T on the end looks like bad video because of its constant color shifts.



Frankis said:


> Yea its a lottery but in my country there is no better one, or one that comes close to it. Wish the hisense l9g was available here and i would take it over samsam any day.


I think I might have to try it out too given that even my 2nd LSP9T also has this issue now.


----------



## bennutt

avsscientist said:


> I hope for you too, because apparently Hisense L9G has HDR issues and LG HU85LA has inferior blacks, so LSP9T still has the best IQ of these models, for now.


Respectfully disagree with this one - The LG has awesome black levels, the Samsung isn't better in this regard. If you think this is true, check your settings.


----------



## avsenthusiast

bennutt said:


> Respectfully disagree with this one - The LG has awesome black levels, the Samsung isn't better in this regard. If you think this is true, check your settings.


I do hope what you’re saying is true, that LG has better black levels, so that I can treat LG as a viable contender I can switch to, as I am not sure if I want to continue to play LSP9T lottery.

But some trusted sources are telling me LG IQ is not better than LSP9T so I guess I’ll only know when I get one to compare.


----------



## Dave Harper

BayAreaFan said:


> Hi Dave:
> 
> Due to WAF factors, this has to be a rolling screen. Wife is extremely uncomfortable with this giant screen on the wall.
> 
> Have you tried Spandex on a roller or is it just fixed frame?
> 
> And if I have to go the conventional route, is the VividStorm/ScreenPro the best way to go for a roll-up/roll-down UST screen?


No never tried or even thought of using it on a roller. I have not tested the LSP9T on a Vividstorm. Only a Cinegrey 3D, Stewart StudioTek 130 and this spandex. 

I’d talk to @ProjectionHead as he is the one who has access to tons of screens and UST projectors, of which I hope to access at some point myself.


----------



## MarcusD777

avsscientist said:


> I do hope what you’re saying is true, that LG has better black levels, so that I can treat LG as a viable contender I can switch to, as I am not sure if I want to continue to play LSP9T lottery.
> 
> But some trusted sources are telling me LG IQ is not better than LSP9T so I guess I’ll only know when I get one to compare.


I can vouch for the LGHU85LA having solid black levels while being plenty bright enough. I am running it on a 135" white 1.0 gain screen.


----------



## avsenthusiast

MarcusD777 said:


> I can vouch for the LGHU85LA having solid black levels while being plenty bright enough. I am running it on a 135" white 1.0 gain screen.


Thanks for confirming. I will give it a serious look.

Wait a min, have you all switched to LGHU85LA?


----------



## bennutt

avsscientist said:


> Thanks for confirming. I will give it a serious look.
> 
> Wait a min, have you all switched to LGHU85LA?


I did back when chromatic aberration was a deal breaker on the second tested unit. I didn’t even notice the subtitle issue yet.
The LG runs a bit louder (fan) my only complaint.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> I do hope what you’re saying is true, that LG has better black levels, so that I can treat LG as a viable contender I can switch to, as I am not sure if I want to continue to play LSP9T lottery.
> 
> But some trusted sources are telling me LG IQ is not better than LSP9T so I guess I’ll only know when I get one to compare.


I went back and reviewed my notes from 10 months ago, when I had the HU85LA and the LSP9T set up next to each other and my impression was that the black level on the LG could match the Samsung but it required reducing the brightness control, which made the overall image dimmer. My screen is 0.4 gain, just fyi.

I wish I had some saved measurements from that time so that I could give objective numbers and not just my impression.


----------



## djn2004

avsscientist said:


> Just received my brand new replacement LSP9T unit manufactured in July, 2021 and..
> 
> 🥁*.... It still has the same Color Shift defect*


Do you know if it still has the ”green blob” issue?


----------



## MarcusD777

bennutt said:


> I did back when chromatic aberration was a deal breaker on the second tested unit. I didn’t even notice the subtitle issue yet.
> The LG runs a bit louder (fan) my only complaint.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


This is my only minor complaint with the LG is the fan can run a touch louder but not enough where its ever a distraction with a sound system. The colors, black levels (when adjusted correctly) and overall picture and motion processing options are top notch. It's never been finicky or buggy (unlike the Optoma P1 I had). HDR can be a little funky with the dynamic tone mapping on with some sources. Other times its impressive. Ive been able to remedy this with using an HDFury Vertex 2 with Apple 4kTV to adjust tone mapping and make use of LLDV for HDR sources.


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> Thanks for confirming. I will give it a serious look.
> 
> Wait a min, have you all switched to LGHU85LA?


Also, if you have any concerns about speckle, the HU85LA has none at all that I could see.


----------



## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> Also, if you have any concerns about speckle, the HU85LA has none at all that I could see.


No concerns about speckle, as it doesn't show up on my screen.


----------



## avsenthusiast

Jue Liang said:


> For anyone who would like to know my settings of the manual correction, they are R gain=0, G gain= -5, B gain=4, R offset =1, G offset=0. B offset = -2. A 3D Lut calibration would improve it further of course.
> Again, this may not work for you due to sample variance and screen difference.


Hi @Jue Liang Since LSP9T firmware upgrade to 2012, have you re-calibrated and have you noticed anymore specific push? 

For me, it seems if I set to Movie/Filmmaker mode on my new LSP9T and use DCI-P3 color space, I just need a tiny bit of G gain = -10 and R offset = -10 to get rid of the red and green push in HDR.

In Auto and Native though, I am still seeing the severe red punch/oversaturation thing in HDR, so weird.


----------



## JereyWolf

I just finished a call with Samsung. I was asking for a status update again on the projector I sent for "service" to fix my white balance shifting issue. 
I shipped it out on 11/8. 
It was received on 11/10. 
I've called many times to ask for an update because I received nothing formally until...
12/8 email notice stating that the service has been completed. 
12/10 I call to ask why I haven't received a tracking number yet. 

Samsung had no update on when it will ship or why it took so long. The only information they told me was that the service ticket had an explanation of the actions they took to fix it.
The explanation for the cause of white balance shifting....*dust build up leading to overheating..so they just blew out the dust*. 😵 

This issue has been present since the day I set up the projector. I went through a bit of effort to prove that this issue is unit specific by purchasing a second one and verifying it did not have the same problem. I called multiple times to make sure Samsung and the repair center had a complete picture of the problem. I explained the measurements that I took. 

So...this whole experience is going the way I figured it would. Absolutely worthless service from Samsung. I already told them I'm going to ask for a new unit after I confirm the "repair" was non-sense.


----------



## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> So...this whole experience is going the way I figured it would. Absolutely worthless service from Samsung. I already told them I'm going to ask for a new unit after I confirm the "repair" was non-sense.


This is horrendous: the repair done to your unit was "blowing the dust away" on an issue that existed since Day 1? 

At least for the unit that I sent in for repair, the repair center in Canada said they can't get the parts to repair the defect so I would be getting a partial refund or exchange to a brand new projector.

The unfortunate part is, my brand new replacement unit manufactured in July 2021 still suffers from the same color shift issue so my dealer has ordered a 3rd one to come in, which should be here in a couple of weeks.

I just don't know why Samsung is not fixing this issue properly and instead would let these exchanges keep happening all over the place


----------



## JereyWolf

Here is the official statement from my Samsung service ticket. 
I wish it were possible to talk to anyone at Samsung who can even grasp the white balance shifting issue. Pretty much every interaction with their customer service ends up a complete waste of time. I spent 18 minutes on a call yesterday trying to get in contact with someone who had any technical knowledge and ended up being hung up on with no call back.


----------



## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> Here is the official statement from my Samsung service ticket.
> I wish it were possible to talk to anyone at Samsung who can even grasp the white balance shifting issue. Pretty much every interaction with their customer service ends up a complete waste of time. I spent 18 minutes on a call yesterday trying to get in contact with someone who had any technical knowledge and ended up being hung up on with no call back.
> 
> View attachment 3208393


Oh gosh, now they went from "will repair" to "no problem found?" 

So what does this mean, they will deny you a refund/exchange? If yes, this is not right.

At least the Canadian repair center admitted they need parts but couldn't get them so they are giving me a partial refund or exchange.


----------



## Kuky

Something is weird in Europe with the price of this projector. One month ago it was 8.000 EUR, now they have a special offer, buy it before Christmas for ..... 3.600 EUR !?!


----------



## Kuky

Question for viewers in 50Hz (PAL) countries. How do you rate the viewing experience for regular tv channels in terms of motion compensation?
As I understand it, this projector is 60Hz only so it has to recalculate all frames for sources in 25 fps.


----------



## tambur123

Kuky said:


> Something is weird in Europe with the price of this projector. One month ago it was 8.000 EUR, now they have a special offer, buy it before Christmas for ..... 3.600 EUR !?!


The maximum/launch price was around 5000eu and in the last 6 months it fluctuated between 3000eu and 4000eu, on samsung store.


----------



## 3sprit

Dates and Hours


Know when to arrive and how to plan your agenda with these dates and event hours.



www.ces.tech


----------



## vtsteevo

Just got this projector and reading these posts, trying to replicate the color shift issue. @JereyWolf , @flam3of4nor , @avsscientist , I followed your instructions with The Expanse Season 5 Ep 1 and Grand Tour Season 4 E 1, with subtitles on, both displaying HDR10+. I am displaying on a bare wall right now, but could not spot the issue. Anything else you would recommend trying before my 30 days are up? FYI Version No is CA01, Manufactured June 2021. 

The reds are way oversaturated. Looks like I have 80+ pages to read to see if there's any way to adjust that. ALR screen on it's way.


----------



## JereyWolf

vtsteevo said:


> Just got this projector and reading these posts, trying to replicate the color shift issue. @JereyWolf , @flam3of4nor , @avsscientist , I followed your instructions with The Expanse Season 5 Ep 1 and Grand Tour Season 4 E 1, with subtitles on, both displaying HDR10+. I am displaying on a bare wall right now, but could not spot the issue. Anything else you would recommend trying before my 30 days are up? FYI Version No is CA01, Manufactured June 2021.
> 
> The reds are way oversaturated. Looks like I have 80+ pages to read to see if there's any way to adjust that. ALR screen on it's way.
> View attachment 3209942
> 
> View attachment 3209943
> 
> View attachment 3209944
> 
> View attachment 3209941


It should be pretty easy to see if you are looking for it and it's present. Hopefully it's just not present on your unit. 
You can definitely the image through a combination of white balance adjustments, adjusting the color slider and using your preferred color space setting.

I would highly recommend to anyone to do at least white balance calibration. An XRite i1 display pro and HCFR can get you pretty far for minimal cost.


----------



## fanfan00000043

JereyWolf said:


> It should be pretty easy to see if you are looking for it and it's present. Hopefully it's just not present on your unit.
> You can definitely the image through a combination of white balance adjustments, adjusting the color slider and using your preferred color space setting.
> 
> I would highly recommend to anyone to do at least white balance calibration. An XRite i1 display pro and HCFR can get you pretty far for minimal cost.


Dude, try to cover the big white plastic on lsp9t with black cloth, and see may the colour shift issue solved


----------



## avsenthusiast

vtsteevo said:


> Just got this projector and reading these posts, trying to replicate the color shift issue. @JereyWolf , @flam3of4nor , @avsscientist , I followed your instructions with The Expanse Season 5 Ep 1 and Grand Tour Season 4 E 1, with subtitles on, both displaying HDR10+. I am displaying on a bare wall right now, but could not spot the issue. Anything else you would recommend trying before my 30 days are up? FYI Version No is CA01, Manufactured June 2021.


Congrats on your new projector. Hopefully you received a perfect unit, unlike some of us have experienced.

As @JereyWolf said, it's pretty easy to see the color shift and I never have to use special shows or settings to trigger it.

Once you know how it looks like, you can spot it anywhere. But of course there could be some kind of "torture test" that might be able to reveal it even more clearly. Here's what I would recommend:

1. Go to your Prime or Netflix settings
2. Make subtitles maximum size
3. No drop-shadows
4. Must be white color for subtitle
5. Pick any HDR show on Netflix or Prime
6. Look for color shift NOT when camera cuts to a new scene or angle, because you won't tell it's a bad cut or a shift
7. Look for color shifts when the scene / camera angle stays constant while subtitles come on and off

Once you know how the shift looks like, you'll be able to detect the same color shifts with credits, OSD, project menu, and also when there are bright spots/highlights in the scene. Then it's time to run to your dealer for exchange before the 30 days deadline. 

Don't accept the excuse "we are still waiting for the replacement unit to arrive" because that's how I missed the 30-day cutoff for my first defective unit. Now I am on the 2nd defective unit and will make sure I can get it exchanged before the 30-day cutoff.

Hope this helps.


----------



## JereyWolf

An update on my repair for the white balance shifting issue.
Today I received my projector back, 31 days after it was delivered to the repair center in New Jersey.
Like I mentioned before on a recent post, they were not able to find any issues with the unit, so no repair was made.
It came back in a different box than I shipped it in, so the serial number label on the outside of this box does not match the serial number on my projector. It was missing the protective foam covering that I shipped the projector in to keep dust and debris out of the vents. There is a small screw bouncing around in the box, which ended up being one of two missing screws from the projector's housing. They didn't even send the remote back to me....and when I plug it in and power on, within a few seconds I receive the error: "System Error, due to a system error, projector will be turned off automatically in a moment".

I held off for a long time before sending it in for service because I figured it was going to be a bad experience and that proved to be true.

I'm now waiting on a call back from Samsung to address all of these new problems. I'm requesting a full refund.


----------



## vulture

JereyWolf said:


> It should be pretty easy to see if you are looking for it and it's present. Hopefully it's just not present on your unit.
> You can definitely the image through a combination of white balance adjustments, adjusting the color slider and using your preferred color space setting.
> 
> I would highly recommend to anyone to do at least white balance calibration. An XRite i1 display pro and HCFR can get you pretty far for minimal cost.


On mine, the color shift only showed when the color space was not set to "Native". Second thing to check for is the "green flare", display a dark image with a light object in the upper half of the screen - look for a green blob in the dark background in the bottom middle section of the screen - the green flare was much more distracting to me.


----------



## vulture

JereyWolf said:


> An update on my repair for the white balance shifting issue.
> Today I received my projector back, 31 days after it was delivered to the repair center in New Jersey.
> Like I mentioned before on a recent post, they were not able to find any issues with the unit, so no repair was made.
> It came back in a different box than I shipped it in, so the serial number label on the outside of this box does not match the serial number on my projector. It was missing the protective foam covering that I shipped the projector in to keep dust and debris out of the vents. There is a small screw bouncing around in the box, which ended up being one of two missing screws from the projector's housing. They didn't even send the remote back to me....and when I plug it in and power on, within a few seconds I receive the error: "System Error, due to a system error, projector will be turned off automatically in a moment".
> 
> I held off for a long time before sending it in for service because I figured it was going to be a bad experience and that proved to be true.
> 
> I'm now waiting on a call back from Samsung to address all of these new problems. I'm requesting a full refund.
> 
> View attachment 3210477


This is terrible - sorry you have to go through the hassle. Seems like it ended up in some hack shop that should not be on Samsung's list of repairers.


----------



## Frankis

JereyWolf said:


> An update on my repair for the white balance shifting issue.
> Today I received my projector back, 31 days after it was delivered to the repair center in New Jersey.
> Like I mentioned before on a recent post, they were not able to find any issues with the unit, so no repair was made.
> It came back in a different box than I shipped it in, so the serial number label on the outside of this box does not match the serial number on my projector. It was missing the protective foam covering that I shipped the projector in to keep dust and debris out of the vents. There is a small screw bouncing around in the box, which ended up being one of two missing screws from the projector's housing. They didn't even send the remote back to me....and when I plug it in and power on, within a few seconds I receive the error: "System Error, due to a system error, projector will be turned off automatically in a moment".
> 
> I held off for a long time before sending it in for service because I figured it was going to be a bad experience and that proved to be true.
> 
> I'm now waiting on a call back from Samsung to address all of these new problems. I'm requesting a full refund.
> 
> View attachment 3210477



That really terrible man, mine got exchanged yesterday. Toke them 4 days. And the new one is great and does not have the color shifting.. i got a video from the old one, and the color shifting is so clear, will try upload in on yt and post here, so people understand the problem.

The company that sold it to me said if you want to return it and it have more then 1 hour projection time its 20% less value.. but i not want to return it i want a beamer worth my money, he understood and called it defect on arrival at samsung.

Here is my video of the old lsp9t with the color shifting. It shifts like 5 times in 10 seconds.


----------



## fanfan00000043

Frankis said:


> That really terrible man, mine got exchanged yesterday. Toke them 4 days. And the new one is great and does not have the color shifting.. i got a video from the old one, and the color shifting is so clear, will try upload in on yt and post here, so people understand the problem.
> 
> The company that sold it to me said if you want to return it and it have more then 1 hour projection time its 20% less value.. but i not want to return it i want a beamer worth my money, he understood and called it defect on arrival at samsung.
> 
> Here is my video of the old lsp9t with the color shifting. It shifts like 5 times in 10 seconds.


It is just what i am talking about , its not so called colour shift or white balance shift, it is a light reflection caused by big white subs and white cover of lsp9t and furniture ！！


----------



## Frankis

fanfan00000043 said:


> It is just what i am talking about , its not so called colour shift or white balance shift, it is a light reflection caused by big white subs and white cover of lsp9t and furniture ！！


Beamer was on the ground, not sure how you think they can reflect from the console itself. They are all white, and most do not have this problem, just a few. The new one i have is perfect and does not have it (yet). Covering the machine to black wouldnt help in my eyes. The laser lays a bit deeper then the white plastic itself. Also if you watch the video, the shifts not always happen when there is subtitle


----------



## JereyWolf

fanfan00000043 said:


> It is just what i am talking about , its not so called colour shift or white balance shift, it is a light reflection caused by big white subs and white cover of lsp9t and furniture ！！


Reflection is not the problem. I tested two units side by side and demonstrated that one unit had the problem and another did not with identical signal chain and settings. Check post # 1534








Official Samsung "Premiere" LSP9T Owners Thread


Why does he not mention anything about speckle and color shifting? Maybe he didn't notice it or find it to be an issue?




www.avsforum.com


----------



## JereyWolf

JereyWolf said:


> An update on my repair for the white balance shifting issue.
> Today I received my projector back, 31 days after it was delivered to the repair center in New Jersey.
> Like I mentioned before on a recent post, they were not able to find any issues with the unit, so no repair was made.
> It came back in a different box than I shipped it in, so the serial number label on the outside of this box does not match the serial number on my projector. It was missing the protective foam covering that I shipped the projector in to keep dust and debris out of the vents. There is a small screw bouncing around in the box, which ended up being one of two missing screws from the projector's housing. They didn't even send the remote back to me....and when I plug it in and power on, within a few seconds I receive the error: "System Error, due to a system error, projector will be turned off automatically in a moment".
> 
> I held off for a long time before sending it in for service because I figured it was going to be a bad experience and that proved to be true.
> 
> I'm now waiting on a call back from Samsung to address all of these new problems. I'm requesting a full refund.
> 
> View attachment 3210477


So....a follow up on the absolutely mind melting ordeal of Samsung customer service. After spending 4.5 hours on phone calls and 1 hour on web chat, Samsung's case management has set me up with a new service ticket so they can attempt a "second repair"...on the now non-functional unit that they returned to me (without the remote and original box), on which they could not diagnose the original problem anyway. I tried to protest this route as much as possible, but eventually when they just say, "Well if you do not want to send it in for a second repair, there's nothing else we can offer you" and they are ready to hang up....what can I do?
I tried to make the case management person understand that this is my personal property, $7000 worth; it was only partially returned to me, and is in worse condition than when I shipped it to the repair center. I knew that the decision to send it in on the original service ticket was a risk and that's part of why I held off for so long. This is my TV replacement, the only TV type display that I own and my whole family relies on using it. There's no telling how long the next round of "repair service" will take.


----------



## vtsteevo

Any tips to improve motion with 24fps content on Netflix? I understand that Film Maker mode is "supposed to" adjust fps to the source content, but not sure that's happening actually. I tried judder reduction bumped up to 8, and even then it's not great (in my opinion). I am using both the native Netflix app and a Fire Stick. Fire Stick has a setting on it to match FPS to source content, but it only works with Prime Video and not Netflix. 

HDTVTest mentions 24fps handling on the LSP9T here, but curious what others have done: 




My test content is The Witcher. Season 1 Episode 2, 21:15 into it. It may just be this darn show...


----------



## JereyWolf

vtsteevo said:


> Any tips to improve motion with 24fps content on Netflix? I understand that Film Maker mode is "supposed to" adjust fps to the source content, but not sure that's happening actually. I tried judder reduction bumped up to 8, and even then it's not great (in my opinion). I am using both the native Netflix app and a Fire Stick. Fire Stick has a setting on it to match FPS to source content, but it only works with Prime Video and not Netflix.
> 
> HDTVTest mentions 24fps handling on the LSP9T here, but curious what others have done:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My test content is The Witcher. Season 1 Episode 2, 21:15 into it. It may just be this darn show...


Im always surprised when I see concerns about motion for this projector. Using Nvidia shield, not sure how much difference that makes, I tested the time stamp in the Witcher that you mentioned and I can't see any judder with judder reduction set to 3. Even with it off, and game mode enabled, I have a hard time noticing judder.


----------



## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> Im always surprised when I see concerns about motion for this projector. Using Nvidia shield, not sure how much diffe8 that makes, I tested the time stamp in the Witcher that you mentioned and I can't see any judder with judder reduction set to 3. Even with it off, and game mode enabled, I have a hard time noticing judder.


I used to own a Sony projector which is supposed the best in motion handling. But I gotta say, the Nvidia Shield Pro and LSP9T combo has impressed me. Not sure if the Shield or LSP9T is responsible for the excellent performance but in general, I have judder reduction set to between 1-3 depending on content.


----------



## otahtinen

I start to like this projector more and more.


----------



## FrankNJ

Has anyone attempted to wall mount a Sonos Arc sound bar directly underneath the screen with the LSP9T? Any issues with the projections being interfered with by the Sonos?


----------



## Dave Harper

FrankNJ said:


> Has anyone attempted to wall mount a Sonos Arc sound bar directly underneath the screen with the LSP9T? Any issues with the projections being interfered with by the Sonos?


That depends on how large of a screen you’re going to have, which dictates how far out from the wall the LSP9T will be, and how high up the wall it shoots.


----------



## otahtinen

I can't find operating hours or lamp hours anywhere in menus. Not so big deal like in normal light bulb projectors i had, but just something nice to know where you are from promised 20 000 h. I bought this unit from shop as customer return and got 1000€ discount from 5600€. That made me wonder cause customer return is possible only inside 14 days.


----------



## Stinklez

I have asked this before - and apologies if it has been answered - but has anyone had any luck connecting Samsung wireless sats or sub to this? I would absolutely LOVE to have the built in soundbar act as center/front - and have a sub and sats handle bass and rear - and despite a lack of meaningful documentation - support for wireless speakers IS indicated in the projector's settings UI - if nowhere else.

Problem is that testing it would require picking hardware and crossing fingers that I'd sleected the right ones, even if it _were_ actually supported...




vtsteevo said:


> View attachment 3209941


Hmm, the other images are definitely off, but Jeremy Clarkson really is the color of oxidized gammon, so this is a tough one to judge...


----------



## Stinklez

Fogyreef said:


> Is there a way to connect the LSP9T to an external Alexa device, or are we only able to use the remote voice control? I'd like to open an app on the projector without needing the remote in hand.


You _should_ be able to pair it with any Echo using Bluetooth (Settings/Sound/Sound Output) from the Samsung menu and in my case, I also have it connected via Optical to an Echo Studio and Sub (limited to 5.1/Stereo and no Atmos that way - BUT I get reasonable audio from my Xbox that way using the Premiere as the AV receiver) and when I use the FireTV stick it pairs wirelessly with the Studio using Amazon's own (flaky but when it works, works great) wireless audio/control protocol and defaults to Atmos or 5.1 depending on the app support (Prime Video obviously has more format support for this admittedly weird setup). 

I would assume that if you have multi-speaker Echo setup (dots for example) that the Bluetooth connection will play nice with that, but I might be wrong - and Bluetooth is notoriously fickle, Echo or not. That said, the Premiere has excellent latency adjustment to sync audio so at least you can sort that out.


----------



## RomainKa

Tamahome13 said:


> However, when we turn off the Samsung and soundbar, instead of a solid red light on the projector, we get a blinking red light every 3 seconds or so. If I unplug the HDMI-1 cable from the projector connected to the Sonos, the blinking stops.
> 
> Does anyone know what the blinking red light means??


Hi, do you resolve that? My LSP7T does the same thing, in off-mode, the red light is blinking 2-3 seconds every 2-3 minutes (remote too) ... No HDMI cable udes for the test. Seems the Samsung trying to wake-up... Any idea of this issue?
Many thanks !


----------



## riddle

Can I somehow align the pixels on this projector? One of my friends just bought it and it seems to me that I see a red line and I think the whole picture would need to be sharpened somehow.


----------



## bennutt

riddle said:


> Can I somehow align the pixels on this projector? One of my friends just bought it and it seems to me that I see a red line and I think the whole picture would need to be sharpened somehow.


Welcome to the chromatic aberration issue - and the unfortunate answer is no :/


----------



## Dave Harper

riddle said:


> Can I somehow align the pixels on this projector? One of my friends just bought it and it seems to me that I see a red line and I think the whole picture would need to be sharpened somehow.


If you’re wearing glasses, try taking them off and see if you can still see the red line. 

Not saying there also isn’t a chromatic issue, but I don’t have it on mine so can’t confirm. 

What I CAN confirm is that when I wear my glasses I see red fringing around some objects, especially at the edge of the image, but when I take them off it disappears 100%. Another way I can tell is that as I move my head, the red line goes into and out of alignment. 

So for ME, the chromatic aberration is due to my glasses, not the LSP9T.


----------



## riddle

Can be somehow solved through Samsung's support? When I compare it to JVC what I'm used, this is pretty crazy.


----------



## bennutt

riddle said:


> Can be somehow solved through Samsung's support? When I compare it to JVC what I'm used, this is pretty crazy.


At one point I had over $13,000 I was juggling trying to swap a new unit without the issue. Gave up. I also think viewing distance will make the effect more/less dramatic but I never could get far enough away to "not see it'.


----------



## avsenthusiast

On the way to pick up my 3rd LSP9T now, praying this time it will not have the color shift issue.


----------



## vtsteevo

Hope it works out. Holding my breath here for you.



avsscientist said:


> On the way to pick up my 3rd LSP9T now, praying this time it will not have the color shift issue.


----------



## avsenthusiast

vtsteevo said:


> Hope it works out. Holding my breath here for you.


I was really praying and hoping that with my third unit, it would not have the color shift issue. 

But unfortunately, straight out of the box, after setting it up and updating to latest 2012 firmware, upon first activation of Projector Menu I can already see the color/white balance shift 😞

Further tests in SDR and HDR reveal the same behavior from before, any bright elements on-screen which includes OSD, white subtitles, a patch of white objects in the frame, all will trigger this color shift in Auto, Native, and Custom color spaces, in both Movie and Filmmaker modes. 🙁

I didn't test "normal" color space and Dynamic or Standard modes because the colors in those space and modes are not accurate. 

I still think this issue is more widespread that it seems. All prominent testers have been saying this for sometime, and have switched to LG and Hisense etc. I am probably stupid for wishing that other Samsung units would be different, because now I have had 3 different brand new projectors and they all have behaved the same 😖

For those of you who don't have this issue, hang onto your unit like a treasure!


----------



## Dave Harper

avsscientist said:


> I was really praying and hoping that with my third unit, it would not have the color shift issue.
> 
> But unfortunately, straight out of the box, after setting it up and updating to latest 2012 firmware, upon first activation of Projector Menu I can already see the color/white balance shift
> 
> Further tests in SDR and HDR reveal the same behavior from before, any bright elements on-screen which includes OSD, white subtitles, a patch of white objects in the frame, all will trigger this color shift in Auto, Native, and Custom color spaces, in both Movie and Filmmaker modes.
> 
> I didn't test "normal" color space and Dynamic or Standard modes because the colors in those space and modes are not accurate.
> 
> I still think this issue is more widespread that it seems. All prominent testers have been saying this for sometime, and have switched to LG and Hisense etc. I am probably stupid for wishing that other Samsung units would be different, because now I have had 3 different brand new projectors and they all have behaved the same
> 
> For those of you who don't have this issue, hang onto your unit like a treasure!


I forget, have you tried Game Mode?


----------



## avsenthusiast

Dave Harper said:


> I forget, have you tried Game Mode?


Yup tried it, same thing. 

Also tried internal native Netflix and Prime apps and external Shield Pro apps, all exhibit this defect.

I also paired my Shield Pro and ATV to an LG for a month, there was none of this issue so I know my Shield Pro and ATV are not defective.


----------



## avsenthusiast

My last two days of testing LSP9T color shift issue on my 3rd unit of LSP9T has revealed more questions than answers. Here's what happened:

• I was about to give up on LSP9T due to my 3 units with the same color shift defect
• But late last night, I notice "Emby" app running on Shield Pro does NOT exhibit this defect in SDR and HDR
• This is the same Shield Pro that exhibits color shift when running Netflix and Prime 
• So I gave this thing a deeper analysis

*Question 1*: Maybe my Shield Pro is broken? Because the Emby app on it does NOT have this problem, only Netflix and Prime show color shift

• To rule out Shield Pro as the problem, I tested native Netflix and Prime apps running on LSP9T
• Unfortunately, I see the same color shift problem with Netflix and Prime apps on LSP9T
• now we know the color shift issue cannot be attributed to my Shield Pro alone

*Question 2: *So maybe it's the wrong content that I've been watching? 

• I have tested content with Dolby Vision, HDR10 and HDR10+ the results are consistently the same
• Basically I get color shift with projector menu, OSD, subtitles, bright elements in scenes, period. 

*Question 3: *What about ATV? 

• Our of curiosity, I plugged in my ATV 1080p Gen4 that is not capable of HDR
• *No color shift* is observed on Netflix, Prime apps
• Unable to test my ATV 4K Gen 1 with HDR, because I am giving it away for Christmas
• Now waiting for my ATV 4K Gen 2 to arrive, will test this

*Question 4: *It seems like color shift only happens on HDR content? 

• Not true, my Emby app on Shield Pro can show HDR content without color shift

*Questions 5: *So maybe Netflix and Prime apps are the cultprit? 

• This is not likely because Netflix supports DV and HDR10 
• But then even with Prime which supports HDR10+ this Samsung still shows color shifts 

*Question 6: *Why is the Emby app on Shield Pro able to overcome the color shift issue? 

• this is perhaps the million dollar question
• I am checking Shield Pro and Emby forums for clues
• could be because Emby has proper coding for LSP9T to "understand" HDR signals? 
• I can confirm if the Emby app on ATV 4K Gen 2 can also overcome this issue when it arrives too

For now, it seems more testing is required to find out what exactly is going on


----------



## Dave Harper

Is the Emby app possibly doing an HDR to SDR tone map, similar to what they do with video processors such as MadVR, Envy and Radiance Pro?


----------



## vulture

avsscientist said:


> For now, it seems more testing is required to find out what exactly is going on


Do you have an HDFury/Vertex 2-like device to see exactly what signal the Shield pro is sending? Also, do you have an LG OLED by any chance, pressing 11111 in the channel menu and then going to the HDMI section gives a ton of timing and diagnostic info on what signal is being sent in. Just an idea.


----------



## avsenthusiast

Dave Harper said:


> Is the Emby app possibly doing an HDR to SDR tone map, similar to what they do with video processors such as MadVR, Envy and Radiance Pro?


At this point, that's my hypothesis too, I strongly suspect the Emby app does some advanced processing that Netflix and Prime apps don't do.

When my ATV 4K Gen2 arrives next week, if Emby can also suppress color shift when running on ATV, then the culprit can be narrowed down to the incompatibility between Netflix/Prime streaming apps and LSP9T's DTM.

If this is indeed the case, then an external video processor like HDruy/Vertex etc may be able to bypass whatever that is not compatible between LSP9T and these apps.

At least that's what I am hoping, so I can keep my LSP9T and not have to return or exchange again.

Having said that, for the amount of money that I've spent on LSP9T, I shouldn't have had to go to this length to figure this out.


----------



## avsenthusiast

vulture said:


> Do you have an HDFury/Vertex 2-like device to see exactly what signal the Shield pro is sending? Also, do you have an LG OLED by any chance, pressing 11111 in the channel menu and then going to the HDMI section gives a ton of timing and diagnostic info on what signal is being sent in. Just an idea.


Unfortunately I don't have the Vertex2 right now, because in my opinion it's already overpriced to begin with, before the recent price hikes. 

However, if it's proven that the color shift issue is traced back to LSP9T improper DTM and that it can be solved by an external processor then I may pick up an HDfury then. 

Does anyone know or has anyone tried the the cheaper Arcana on LSP9T? I have read many posts about Vertex2 but not Arcana yet, which might be good enough to do the DV or DTM trick. @Dave Harper ?


----------



## Dave Harper

avsscientist said:


> Unfortunately I don't have the Vertex2 right now, because in my opinion it's already overpriced to begin with, before the recent price hikes.
> 
> However, if it's proven that the color shift issue is traced back to LSP9T improper DTM and that it can be solved by an external processor then I may pick up an HDfury then.
> 
> Does anyone know or has anyone tried the the cheaper Arcana on LSP9T? I have read many posts about Vertex2 but not Arcana yet, which might be good enough to do the DV or DTM trick. @Dave Harper ?


The Vertex or any HDFury product aren’t video processors. They’re just basically EDID manipulators. They trick what’s connected to it into thinking they’re connected to a different display than what they’re actually connected to. In the case of the LLDV trick, it makes it think it’s connected to a Dolby Vision compatible display. 

All the processing still happens in the source device, i.e. a Roku, firetv, AppleTV, etc. so the only thing that may work for you to get “different processing” would be to try it using LLDV forced on so it bypasses all the HDR10 signals you seem to be having issues with. 

Funny you ask, I just finally tried an Arcana I’ve had here for a bit on my LSP9T. I just set the basic LLDV on it at 1,000 nits peak so far and it seems to work well from what little I’ve seen so far. 

You can actually get basic LLDV with something as cheap as an HDFury Linker by the way. You just have to load one of the custom EDIDs that support it, from their website. There won’t be any customizable settings though, just whatever capabilities are built into the display’s EDID you use, such as the one for a Sony A1 OLED (where you’d want to use DCI-P3 color gamut on your LSP9T to avoid a red push you’d get with BT2020).


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> At this point, that's my hypothesis too, I strongly suspect the Emby app does some advanced processing that Netflix and Prime apps don't do.
> 
> When my ATV 4K Gen2 arrives next week, if Emby can also suppress color shift when running on ATV, then the culprit can be narrowed down to the incompatibility between Netflix/Prime streaming apps and LSP9T's DTM.
> 
> If this is indeed the case, then an external video processor like HDruy/Vertex etc may be able to bypass whatever that is not compatible between LSP9T and these apps.
> It is interesting that you were able to
> At least that's what I am hoping, so I can keep my LSP9T and not have to return or exchange again.
> 
> Having said that, for the amount of money that I've spent on LSP9T, I shouldn't have had to go to this length to figure this out.


It is odd that one app would seem to inhibit the color shift where others exhibit it, but I'm skeptical that the white balance shifting is related to any app, just for the fact that it shifts simply by opening the projector's menu.


----------



## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> It is odd that one app would seem to inhibit the color shift where others exhibit it, but I'm skeptical that the white balance shifting is related to any app, just for the fact that it shifts simply by opening the projector's menu.


Agreed completely, totally odd. If I didn't catch this myself, I would've thought it's totally unbelievable and must be user-error. Keep in mind though, or maybe I wasn't clear, opening the projector menu would still trigger color shift, but Emby app completely suppresses this color shift when watching content with subtitles on.

The fact is, I have run multiple SDR and HDR content with Emby on Shield Pro, with HUMONGOUS subtitles in WHITE for all, but it hasn't triggered color shift yet after testing and watching random things for hours.

But on Netflix and Prime, it would take seconds to notice the first color shift. So there is something indeed very wrong and strange going on.

There could also be a simple explanation, eg. that Emby app is simply built/coded much better. They have an active forum where developers respond directly to user feedback. Based on brief scan of Nvidia Shield and Emby forums, it seems there are multiple things related to color space and mapping going on with different apps.

Like I said though, ATV 4K Gen 2 is on the way, and I might get a Arcana or hook up LSP9T directly to my PC.

My goal is: How to get Netflix and Prime to ALSO not shift color, since this is already possible on the Emby app on Shield Pro!!


----------



## avsenthusiast

Mystery solved regarding why Emby app suppresses or eliminates color shift 🙂

Emby uses “hard-codes” subtitles whereas apps like Netflix and Prime uses “overlay” method just like the projector menu.

This explains why on my 3rd defective LSP9T, the projector menu itself (overlay) would trigger color shift, as well as Netflix and Prime apps, but not the Emby app.

Unless Samsung is going to provide me an LSP9T without this color shift defect then only an external device/EDID manipulator that could FLATTENS the overlays onto the content/image itself will solve the color shift issue.

Does anyone know a device like this? I wonder if ATV 4K Gen2 does this kind of conversion/processing.


----------



## avsenthusiast

On a happier note, watching 4K HDR content using the Emby app is Amazing 🤩

The contrast and blacks of LSP9T are so good that I do not see the edge between the black bars and 16:9 content area


----------



## avsenthusiast

vulture said:


> Do you have an HDFury/Vertex 2-like device to see exactly what signal the Shield pro is sending? Also, do you have an LG OLED by any chance, pressing 11111 in the channel menu and then going to the HDMI section gives a ton of timing and diagnostic info on what signal is being sent in. Just an idea.


I don't have an HDfury device or Vertex-2 or LG OLED, and I can't seem to find anything that can do what these devices can, so...

It seems that if I want to diagnose or get more insights into what all these apps send to LSP9T, then either Arcana or Vertex2 is a must.


----------



## kishunv

avsscientist said:


> Amazing. The contrast and blacks of LSP9T are so good that I do not see the edge between the black bars and 16:9 content area


Really amazing. Thats mean your contrast higher than any TV)


----------



## avsenthusiast

kishunv said:


> Really amazing. Thats mean your contrast higher than any TV)


I didn’t say that. I didn’t mention performing any side-by-side comparisons or measurement to other TVs.


----------



## kishunv

avsscientist said:


> I didn’t say that.


Black bar on bright scenes must be black, but you even don't see any.
Just explanation why you don't see it.


----------



## avsenthusiast

kishunv said:


> Black bar on bright scenes must be black, but you even don't see any.
> Just explanation why you don't see it.


I was referring to the “edge”


----------



## Jdel4278

Hi everyone. So the ARC port in my LSP9T is damaged. The cable must’ve put too much pressure on the middle part of the hdmi port and a piece of that broke. I had taken it somewhere and they were unable to find anywhere that carries the main board that the hdmi ports are attached to. Does anyone have an idea of where the part can be located??? Or any tricks that could be done?? Thank you!


----------



## avsenthusiast

Jdel4278 said:


> Hi everyone. So the ARC port in my LSP9T is damaged. The cable must’ve put too much pressure on the middle part of the hdmi port and a piece of that broke. I had taken it somewhere and they were unable to find anywhere that carries the main board that the hdmi ports are attached to. Does anyone have an idea of where the part can be located??? Or any tricks that could be done?? Thank you!


It would be great if the board is easily available to the public, this will make repairs possible. 

But recently when I sent in my LSP9T to the Samsung authorized repair center, they couldn't get the parts needed to "repair" my unit too, citing supply issues.

So I really doubt if the public will have easy access to these parts.


----------



## Jdel4278

avsscientist said:


> It would be great if the board is easily available to the public, this will make repairs possible.
> 
> But recently when I sent in my LSP9T to the Samsung authorized repair center, they couldn't get the parts needed to "repair" my unit too, citing supply issues.
> 
> So I really doubt if the public will have easy access to these parts.


Thank you for the reply. I’m hoping this changes or I get lucky and someone is selling one for parts. Hate that the port is broken. I make due, but still.


----------



## marco.claudio.colombo

i have recently got an lsp7t, everything is fine except for the noise: according to iphone app, noise from 3 meters is around 36 db and noise next to the fans is 52-55 db. Is this normal?

To be more specific i hear the noise only when there scenes with silence/low dialogue.


----------



## lakersfreak

I just installed the lsp9t and I can't get it to fit my screen. No matter how I move the unit and make adjustments, I have about an inch at the top or bottom. Can someone please help me!


----------



## Dave Harper

Maybe your screen isn’t exactly the right aspect ratio? Have you physically measured it?


----------



## am2model3

it is nice but challenging to fit to screen! i know. the two things you want to look at is how far away the unit is from the screen, but also how high or low the unit is from the bottom of your screen. those are the tight measures you have to deal with. the ratios are on the website for what the screen size requires for those units.


----------



## lakersfreak

So turns out the screen was installed too low. Geek Squad came back out and re-installed however it's still not perfect. I have to go into the settings and pull the screen in at a few locations using the dots so that the green line is symmetrical all around. Is this ok, or am I losing picture quality by doing so?


----------



## avsenthusiast

lakersfreak said:


> So turns out the screen was installed too low. Geek Squad came back out and re-installed however it's still not perfect. I have to go into the settings and pull the screen in at a few locations using the dots so that the green line is symmetrical all around. Is this ok, or am I losing picture quality by doing so?


Congrats on your new LSP9T.

Every time we do digital correction, there will be image loss. But is this loss observable or tolerable this is a question that is quite individual that only our own eyes can answer, I think. Please let us know your results!


----------



## avsenthusiast

marco.claudio.colombo said:


> i have recently got an lsp7t, everything is fine except for the noise: according to iphone app, noise from 3 meters is around 36 db and noise next to the fans is 52-55 db. Is this normal?
> To be more specific i hear the noise only when there scenes with silence/low dialogue.


Congrats on your new LSP7T.

After having my LSP9T for months, I have NEVER heard any objectionable noise sitting at viewing distance of 11ft unless I get really close to it.

Which app do you use to measure the noise level? If it's free maybe I can try it when I am free to see what results I get.


----------



## lakersfreak

avsscientist said:


> Congrats on your new LSP9T.
> 
> Every time we do digital correction, there will be image loss. But is this loss observable or tolerable this is a question that quite individual that only our own eyes can answer, I think. Please let us know your results!


I can't tell the loss at all...looks pretty much the same to me.


----------



## TeaHermit

Hi everyone. First time projector user here...long time admirer.

I bought the LSP9T about a month ago and absolutely loving the PJ but I have gone through 3 models including an R3 (worst experience) and two R5 units.

I swapped units due to CA, RBE, colour/contrast swapping as mentioned on the forum and a glitching error that I haven't seen anyone mention as of yet.

*I am hoping someone can help identify yhe glitching issue and how to resolve.*

The glitch itself is basically pixellation and film grain in videos both via online or via USB. The most consistent error i get is at the start of the below video via youtube:






See also attached images of the issue. I have substantial video of it as well if need be though I can't seem to upload to forum.

The glitch error occurs regardless of what port (HDMI, USB or other) is used, whether YouTube or native apps e.g. NETFLIX or even regardless of being in game mode or via playing games.

I have done NO calibration on the settings nor have used keystone correction, but am using on off white wall which is relatively flat. As such, I'm not sure why all 3 units have this error. Hoping you can help out and investigate if your units also glitch like crazy.

I should mention it also happens regardless of which video mode, e.g. Dynamic, Standard, Movie or Filmaker.

I do realise it's a 8k video so there is more data there than needed but YouTube and the PJ adjust to 4k anyway. Plus the other videos by same YouTube user have no issues on my PJ. This is just one video example to note.

*Any help appreciated hugely




















































































*


----------



## bennutt

lakersfreak said:


> So turns out the screen was installed too low. Geek Squad came back out and re-installed however it's still not perfect. I have to go into the settings and pull the screen in at a few locations using the dots so that the green line is symmetrical all around. Is this ok, or am I losing picture quality by doing so?


Some minor corrections won’t be noticeable. That said, people often forget that screens can be adjusted as well. For example, if 3 corners are perfect, but 1 doesn’t line up, you might be able to physically place a shim behind that corner to bring it forward into alignment. The less keystone work the projector does, the better everything will be.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bennutt

I’d like to try something here. The Boba Fett challenge. Take the best picture you can of this Disney start screen and post it. I didn’t line up the camera for this, took it while seated.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## lakersfreak

TeaHermit said:


> Hi everyone. First time projector user here...long time admirer.
> 
> I bought the LSP9T about a month ago and absolutely loving the PJ but I have gone through 3 models including an R3 (worst experience) and two R5 units.
> 
> I swapped units due to CA, RBE, colour/contrast swapping as mentioned on the forum and a glitching error that I haven't seen anyone mention as of yet.
> 
> *I am hoping someone can help identify yhe glitching issue and how to resolve.*
> 
> The glitch itself is basically pixellation and film grain in videos both via online or via USB. The most consistent error i get is at the start of the below video via youtube:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See also attached images of the issue. I have substantial video of it as well if need be though I can't seem to upload to forum.
> 
> The glitch error occurs regardless of what port (HDMI, USB or other) is used, whether YouTube or native apps e.g. NETFLIX or even regardless of being in game mode or via playing games.
> 
> I have done NO calibration on the settings nor have used keystone correction, but am using on off white wall which is relatively flat. As such, I'm not sure why all 3 units have this error. Hoping you can help out and investigate if your units also glitch like crazy.
> 
> I should mention it also happens regardless of which video mode, e.g. Dynamic, Standard, Movie or Filmaker.
> 
> I do realise it's a 8k video so there is more data there than needed but YouTube and the PJ adjust to 4k anyway. Plus the other videos by same YouTube user have no issues on my PJ. This is just one video example to note.
> 
> *Any help appreciated hugely
> 
> View attachment 3216484
> View attachment 3216481
> View attachment 3216482
> View attachment 3216483
> View attachment 3216484
> View attachment 3216481
> View attachment 3216482
> View attachment 3216483
> View attachment 3216484
> 
> View attachment 3216483
> 
> View attachment 3216482
> 
> View attachment 3216481
> *


I just watched the video on YouTube and it looks amazing. Nothing like your photos! Using the lsp9t through Xbox Series X.


bennutt said:


> I’d like to try something here. The Boba Fett challenge. Take the best picture you can of this Disney start screen and post it. I didn’t line up the camera for this, took it while seated.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## nuevo_eph

bennutt said:


> I’d like to try something here. The Boba Fett challenge. Take the best picture you can of this Disney start screen and post it. I didn’t line up the camera for this, took it while seated.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Nice - what does your screen & wall look like with the lights on? It's so dark that I'm wondering if you have a black wall?


----------



## bennutt

nuevo_eph said:


> Nice - what does your screen & wall look like with the lights on? It's so dark that I'm wondering if you have a black wall?












This is lights up, only pic I had handy on the phone.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## TeaHermit

lakersfreak said:


> I just watched the video on YouTube and it looks amazing. Nothing like your photos! Using the lsp9t through Xbox Series X.
> 
> 
> View attachment 3216715


Interesting. Could you try directly via the in built app? It may be that the xbox X is preprocessing information before sending to projector.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## lakersfreak

TeaHermit said:


> Interesting. Could you try directly via the in built app? It may be that the xbox X is preprocessing information before sending to projector.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Still looks good (same as xbox) through YouTube app directly off the lsp9t.


----------



## Dave Harper

lakersfreak said:


> So turns out the screen was installed too low. Geek Squad came back out and re-installed however it's still not perfect. I have to go into the settings and pull the screen in at a few locations using the dots so that the green line is symmetrical all around. Is this ok, or am I losing picture quality by doing so?





bennutt said:


> Some minor corrections won’t be noticeable. That said, people often forget that screens can be adjusted as well. For example, if 3 corners are perfect, but 1 doesn’t line up, you might be able to physically place a shim behind that corner to bring it forward into alignment. The less keystone work the projector does, the better everything will be.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I was going to give the exact same advice, but since bennutt beat me to it, I’ll just second his suggestion and stress that you should NEVER use keystone or digital correction if at ALL possible!!! It can turn your $6000 projector’s image quality into a $2000 or less one in a hurry!


----------



## nsaeey

I'm thinking of getting a custom built wall-mounted media console/cabinet for my lsp9t. I'm having trouble thinking of a good design. Thing is, I want it projecting a 120" image, which means the cabinet has to be at least 22.2" deep. Having the cabinet stick out so far from the wall would surely look weird. Using a drawer mechanism seems like a solution but I assume it'll take some effort to adjust the image everytime I pull out the projector. A motorised drawer would be ideal but I don't have that option available to me. Anyone has ideas or have seen what a well-designed one (wall-hung ust projector cabinet) might look like? It would be great if the cabinet could cover/conceal the projector when not in use.


----------



## djanderz

Hello 
I have just received one today had to set it up quick to make sure it was all ok.
Thought picture was really sharp and colorfull considering nothing lined up and my screen was not supposed to be used with it. I have a cinegrey 3d and the whites made my missus feel sick when text from the menus popped up. Hopefully my new 0.4 gain alr screen will fix that when its up.

What screens are you guys using and will a lower gain screen fix the sickness?


Hope everyone is having a good nye


----------



## djanderz

Is there Anyway to see the hours used on the projector. 
Cheers


----------



## TeaHermit

lakersfreak said:


> Still looks good (same as xbox) through YouTube app directly off the lsp9t.
> View attachment 3216901


Thank you so much for checking. Seems like my unit may be faulty then. Yay here comes the lottery again.


----------



## JereyWolf

djanderz said:


> Hello
> I have just received one today had to set it up quick to make sure it was all ok.
> Thought picture was really sharp and colorfull considering nothing lined up and my screen was not supposed to be used with it. I have a cinegrey 3d and the whites made my missus feel sick when text from the menus popped up. Hopefully my new 0.4 gain alr screen will fix that when its up.
> 
> What screens are you guys using and will a lower gain screen fix the sickness?
> 
> 
> Hope everyone is having a good nye


When she was feeling ill, was she seeing rainbows frequently? If yes, make sure to update to the latest firmware where RBE was significantly reduced.


----------



## nuevo_eph

bennutt said:


> This is lights up, only pic I had handy on the phone.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It's good to see you don't suffer from any light bleeding beyond the edge of the screen like I see on a lot of other USTs. Even with the thin bezel.


----------



## bennutt

nuevo_eph said:


> It's good to see you don't suffer from any light bleeding beyond the edge of the screen like I see on a lot of other USTs. Even with the thin bezel.


This is from the LG projector- I originally posted this to see if the colors or text would differ from the Samsung shots.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## lakersfreak

My LPS9T keeps turning off on its own. Happened twice in 40 minutes while watching a movie through my Xbox Series X. Has this happened to anyone else?


----------



## asimon

Aztar35 said:


> Hi, Jorge. Welcome to the era of triple laser projection but unfortunately I don't think this one does 3D.


What are the options we have to play 3D content on an LSP9T projector? i have a few 3D Blu-ray discs now and the LsP9T projector but I am searching for a solution.


----------



## Dave Harper

lakersfreak said:


> My LPS9T keeps turning off on its own. Happened twice in 40 minutes while watching a movie through my Xbox Series X. Has this happened to anyone else?


I’d check and turn off all HDMI CEC controls as a troubleshooting step.


----------



## lakersfreak

Dave Harper said:


> I check and turn off all HDMI CEC controls as a troubleshooting step.


I've turned off all CEC controls already. I did have the auto power off option on, but it was set to 6 hours. I turned that off now, let me see if it happens again. Maybe there's a glitch in the system related to time since it turned off 3 times in 1.5 hours instead of 6 hours like it was set to.


----------



## djanderz

JereyWolf said:


> When she was feeling ill, was she seeing rainbows frequently? If yes, make sure to update to the latest firmware where RBE was significantly reduced.


Just from the white text from Disney Netflix etc 
Managed to calibrate and dull the whites slightly so no colours seen when moving head from side to side.
I suspect it's the screen sparkling that's adding to the problem because it's not made for UST projectors. 
I have a fresnal screen with 0.4 gain to set up in a few week so it's going back in the box until then.

Thinking about getting Apple TV with hdfury vertex2 also this month. 
How much improvement does it actually do compared to hdr10?


----------



## Kantti

Maybe a dumb question, but I would appreciate if somebody could post some preferable settings for watching series and films. I have no calibration equipment available, but would appreciate some starting point for nice picture and especially colors. I am using Grandview Dynamique 120" CLR screen, 0,4 gain. Room can be darkened, but ceiling and walls are white, if that plays any part for those settings.


----------



## SaulP

nsaeey said:


> I'm thinking of getting a custom built wall-mounted media console/cabinet for my lsp9t. I'm having trouble thinking of a good design. Thing is, I want it projecting a 120" image, which means the cabinet has to be at least 22.2" deep. Having the cabinet stick out so far from the wall would surely look weird. Using a drawer mechanism seems like a solution but I assume it'll take some effort to adjust the image everytime I pull out the projector. A motorised drawer would be ideal but I don't have that option available to me. Anyone has ideas or have seen what a well-designed one (wall-hung ust projector cabinet) might look like? It would be great if the cabinet could cover/conceal the projector when not in use.


I was unable to find anything “off the shelf” that I liked. So, I am having a custom cabinet built for my LSP9T that will hold the unit, the screen, the LCR speakers and receiver/amp/Apple TV. I decided to go with a 110” screen because it works better in my room. Once the design is finished I will probably share it here.


----------



## JereyWolf

JereyWolf said:


> I just finished a call with Samsung. I was asking for a status update again on the projector I sent for "service" to fix my white balance shifting issue.
> I shipped it out on 11/8.
> It was received on 11/10.
> I've called many times to ask for an update because I received nothing formally until...
> 12/8 email notice stating that the service has been completed.
> 12/10 I call to ask why I haven't received a tracking number yet.
> 
> Samsung had no update on when it will ship or why it took so long. The only information they told me was that the service ticket had an explanation of the actions they took to fix it.
> The explanation for the cause of white balance shifting....*dust build up leading to overheating..so they just blew out the dust*. 😵
> 
> This issue has been present since the day I set up the projector. I went through a bit of effort to prove that this issue is unit specific by purchasing a second one and verifying it did not have the same problem. I called multiple times to make sure Samsung and the repair center had a complete picture of the problem. I explained the measurements that I took.
> 
> So...this whole experience is going the way I figured it would. Absolutely worthless service from Samsung. I already told them I'm going to ask for a new unit after I confirm the "repair" was non-sense.





JereyWolf said:


> An update on my repair for the white balance shifting issue.
> Today I received my projector back, 31 days after it was delivered to the repair center in New Jersey.
> Like I mentioned before on a recent post, they were not able to find any issues with the unit, so no repair was made.
> It came back in a different box than I shipped it in, so the serial number label on the outside of this box does not match the serial number on my projector. It was missing the protective foam covering that I shipped the projector in to keep dust and debris out of the vents. There is a small screw bouncing around in the box, which ended up being one of two missing screws from the projector's housing. They didn't even send the remote back to me....and when I plug it in and power on, within a few seconds I receive the error: "System Error, due to a system error, projector will be turned off automatically in a moment".
> 
> I held off for a long time before sending it in for service because I figured it was going to be a bad experience and that proved to be true.
> 
> I'm now waiting on a call back from Samsung to address all of these new problems. I'm requesting a full refund.
> 
> View attachment 3210477





JereyWolf said:


> So....a follow up on the absolutely mind melting ordeal of Samsung customer service. After spending 4.5 hours on phone calls and 1 hour on web chat, Samsung's case management has set me up with a new service ticket so they can attempt a "second repair"...on the now non-functional unit that they returned to me (without the remote and original box), on which they could not diagnose the original problem anyway. I tried to protest this route as much as possible, but eventually when they just say, "Well if you do not want to send it in for a second repair, there's nothing else we can offer you" and they are ready to hang up....what can I do?
> I tried to make the case management person understand that this is my personal property, $7000 worth; it was only partially returned to me, and is in worse condition than when I shipped it to the repair center. I knew that the decision to send it in on the original service ticket was a risk and that's part of why I held off for so long. This is my TV replacement, the only TV type display that I own and my whole family relies on using it. There's no telling how long the next round of "repair service" will take.



It's official, I'm going to get no support from Samsung on the white balance shifting issue. I sent it in to the for the second round of "service" on 12/17 and I received the unit back on 1/3. This time the unit will actually power on and function, but the white balance shifting issue is still present. The technician repair statement is "no problem found". 
I've followed up with Samsung case management and again they say that I need to send it back to the service center...for a third time. We spoke for 45 minutes and I tried to ask for a in-house service so I that I could physically show the technician what is going on, in addition to the images and graph that I have already sent them. 
Their only option for me is to send it in again, but if they can not diagnose the issue, they can't offer me anything else. 
Worthless warranty when it comes to a real technical issue.


----------



## Gordon Parr

bennutt said:


> This is lights up, only pic I had handy on the phone.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What is the stand manufacturer/name? Thanks!


----------



## bennutt

Gordon Parr said:


> What is the stand manufacturer/name? Thanks!


I looked at Costco for a specific link but it doesn't look like they carry it anymore. It was glass top TV stand, I just didn't use the top glass, cut out the middle bar. You could do this with nearly any similar off the shelf product.









Edit… found it! https://www.costco.com/harlowe-3-in-1-tv-stand.product.100732699.html


----------



## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> The technician repair statement is "no problem found"...Their only option for me is to send it in again, but if they can not diagnose the issue, they can't offer me anything else... Worthless warranty when it comes to a real technical issue.


I believe there is a legitimate legal concern here for the warranty process that you experienced, not to mention the color / white balance shift defect to begin with.

Unless it's ok for companies to: 

1. Deny there is a problem
2. Frustrate customers by asking them to send in something repeatedly but doesn't do jack (and actually breaks a few things in the process) 
3. Frustrate them enough so they will give up on their own


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> I believe there is a legitimate legal concern here for the warranty process that you experienced, not to mention the color / white balance shift defect to begin with.
> 
> Unless it's ok for companies to:
> 
> 1. Deny there is a problem
> 2. Frustrate customers by asking them to send in something repeatedly but doesn't do jack (and actually breaks a few things in the process)
> 3. Frustrate them enough so they will give up on their own


Yeah, it's pretty annoying. And the thing is...it would be so easy for me to demonstrate to the technician if I could talk to them, but they won't allow it. It seems impossible to speak to anyone at Samsung who can understand the problem.


----------



## Jdel4278

JereyWolf said:


> Yeah, it's pretty annoying. And the thing is...it would be so easy for me to demonstrate to the technician if I could talk to them, but they won't allow it. It seems impossible to speak to anyone at Samsung who can understand the problem.


A couple of years ago the banding on my lg oled was so bad and they sent out one tech who agreed. For some reason they wanted to send out another tech who ran his own tests, told me if I interfered with his convo to LG, he would pack up and leave. Of course he found no issue and LG said the case was closed. I had a lawyer friend type up a letter of intent to sue. Wishin 3 weeks the legal dept reached out offering a new TV from the next years lineup. Well worth the cost of the letter and the satisfaction of these bully companies caving to the threat.


----------



## Boxnoid

Tamahome13 said:


> I haven’t found the answer online or in the manual yet, so I’m hoping someone here can solve this.
> 
> We purchased the LSP9T a few weeks ago - love the picture quality, but the sound was lacking, so we bought a Sonos Arc soundbar. We hooked the soundbar to HDMI 1, and it recognizes it ok and sounds great for Dolby movies.
> 
> However, when we turn off the Samsung and soundbar, instead of a solid red light on the projector, we get a blinking red light every 3 seconds or so. If I unplug the HDMI-1 cable from the projector connected to the Sonos, the blinking stops.
> 
> Does anyone know what the blinking red light means??


Hi, I have the LSP7T, which the standby light blinks 12 times randomly when in standby mode, not as frequent as your situation though. My is connected to PS5 on HDMi 1. I cant seem to find an answer why it is doing it, did you end up finding out why yours was blinking pls?


----------



## JereyWolf

marco.claudio.colombo said:


> i have recently got an lsp7t, everything is fine except for the noise: according to iphone app, noise from 3 meters is around 36 db and noise next to the fans is 52-55 db. Is this normal?
> 
> To be more specific i hear the noise only when there scenes with silence/low dialogue.


Here is a video of the whistling noise that mine makes. The second, temporary unit that I got does not make this sound at all.
It starts at about 10 seconds and you can hear it stop when I power off the projector at the end.


----------



## JereyWolf

Jdel4278 said:


> A couple of years ago the banding on my lg oled was so bad and they sent out one tech who agreed. For some reason they wanted to send out another tech who ran his own tests, told me if I interfered with his convo to LG, he would pack up and leave. Of course he found no issue and LG said the case was closed. I had a lawyer friend type up a letter of intent to sue. Wishin 3 weeks the legal dept reached out offering a new TV from the next years lineup. Well worth the cost of the letter and the satisfaction of these bully companies caving to the threat.


Thanks for sharing, I will seriously consider taking that route.


----------



## JereyWolf

JereyWolf said:


> It's official, I'm going to get no support from Samsung on the white balance shifting issue. I sent it in to the for the second round of "service" on 12/17 and I received the unit back on 1/3. This time the unit will actually power on and function, but the white balance shifting issue is still present. The technician repair statement is "no problem found".
> I've followed up with Samsung case management and again they say that I need to send it back to the service center...for a third time. We spoke for 45 minutes and I tried to ask for a in-house service so I that I could physically show the technician what is going on, in addition to the images and graph that I have already sent them.
> Their only option for me is to send it in again, but if they can not diagnose the issue, they can't offer me anything else.
> Worthless warranty when it comes to a real technical issue.


Lol, I'm sending it back AGAIN. This time Samsung gave me the direct email for the service admin at the repair center. I sent them very detailed information of the defect along with attachments, exact instructions and a link to a video to replicate the white balance shifting effect. This time I included the whistling sound that my projector makes as another issue for them to diagnose....I realized how bad it actually is after using the replacement unit for the last two months then setting my original unit back up a few days ago.

I'm not sure if I posted these GIFs here before, but I feel that they are a pretty clear example so I also sent them to the repair center.


----------



## Jdel4278

Does anyone have this projector ceiling mounted? And if so, are you using a CLR screen upside down?? If you’re doing both of these, is it possible to have any light on in the room and still enjoy the picture? Thank you!


----------



## Dave Harper

djanderz said:


> Thinking about getting Apple TV with hdfury vertex2 also this month.
> 
> How much improvement does it actually do compared to hdr10?


It is a great improvement, especially with native Dolby Vision videos. My LSP9T when in Game Mode and other settings looks like a different projector when employing these devices!


----------



## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> I'm not sure if I posted these GIFs here before, but I feel that they are a pretty clear example so I also sent them to the repair center.
> View attachment 3220431
> View attachment 3220432


These clips do show the "shift", but imo these GIFs are a bit too short to show that this color/white balance shifts happen not just with subtitles, but any bright elements on screen too. Last night, I was watching Shetlands which is an SDR show, but even with subtitles not on, a close-up shot of someone's big white hair was enough to trigger this shift, proving what I have been saying, it's not just subtitles or OSD, it's any bright on-screen elements that will reveal the defect.

Hopefully they will either fix or do something concrete this time, isn't this the 3rd time you sent it in already?


----------



## avsenthusiast

Dave Harper said:


> It is a great improvement, especially with native Dolby Vision videos. My LSP9T when in Game Mode and other settings looks like a different projector when employing these devices!


I apologize if I missed this before, do you notice the improvements mainly in the shadows, highlights? Or both?!


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> These clips do show the "shift", but imo these GIFs are a bit too short to show that this color/white balance shifts happen not just with subtitles, but any bright elements on screen too. Last night, I was watching Shetlands which is an SDR show, but even with subtitles not on, a close-up shot of someone's big white hair was enough to trigger this shift, proving what I have been saying, it's not just subtitles or OSD, it's any bright on-screen elements that will reveal the defect.
> 
> Hopefully they will either fix or do something concrete this time, isn't this the 3rd time you sent it in already?


You're totally right about that. Yes, this is the 3rd time I've sent it to the repair center since November.
I sent then an email with a link to this video and these instructions:

"This video starting at the 6 minute mark is a perfect example of the white balance shifting.
example video, must be watched in full screen.
The shift will happen 4 times between 6:00 and 6:40"

That video shows the shift happen with hard coded subtitles and two still mages that appear on screen.


----------



## Dave Harper

avsscientist said:


> I apologize if I missed this before, do you notice the improvements mainly in the shadows, highlights? Or both?!


Both, and throughout the entire image.


----------



## lakersfreak

Do you have the "fit to screen" setting tuend "off" or "on"? What's it supposed to be set to? I don't understand the difference.


----------



## Kantti

Does the shift happen consistently? So always four occurences in that clip on that time frame? I am trying to find out if mine suffers from same as it had some odd behaviour when sending movie from PC to Denon x1700 to the projector. Colors shifted visibly every now and then, but at that time I didn't yet know that this might have been larger issue. I then set HDMI to passthrough to get eARC functioning. This led to situation where projector now identifies picture source as Denon instead of PC. This opened most of picture settings AND at the same time got rid of that shifting. Trying to find out if I can still get the issue to show or can I be happy with my product.


----------



## JereyWolf

Kantti said:


> Does the shift happen consistently? So always four occurences in that clip on that time frame? I am trying to find out if mine suffers from same as it had some odd behaviour when sending movie from PC to Denon x1700 to the projector. Colors shifted visibly every now and then, but at that time I didn't yet know that this might have been larger issue. I then set HDMI to passthrough to get eARC functioning. This led to situation where projector now identifies picture source as Denon instead of PC. This opened most of picture settings AND at the same time got rid of that shifting. Trying to find out if I can still get the issue to show or can I be happy with my product.


Yes, it happens for me every time. Very reproduceable.
The video needs to be in full screen.

I'm really starting to wonder whether it could be related to faulty dynamic black or background dynamic contrast. 
If you have never noticed before, the contrast slider changes the white balance. This is very easy to see if you are looking at AVSForum with different levels of white/gray and adjust the contrast slider between 40 and 50.


----------



## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> I'm really starting to wonder whether it could be related to faulty dynamic black or background dynamic contrast.
> If you have never noticed before, the contrast slider changes the white balance. This is very easy to see if you are looking at AVSForum with different levels of white/gray and adjust the contrast slider between 40 and 50.


Yes, the color shift defect definitely has something to do with dynamic contrast or processing. Maybe there is even a threshold setting over which the color shift would not occur. But I highly doubt it, and hold the position that it's a hardware defect since many owners running the same firmware does not experience this issue.

In fact, I notice another unpleasant issue last night when watching "The Night Manager" on Prime for the first time on my defective LSP9T.

In contrasty scenes, the dark areas would flicker with moving flashes and artifact blocks. I'll see if I can film a clip that shows this madness.

Turing on Game Mode did not fix it, but Filmmaker mode somehow suppresses it a lot but since I know where to look, there are hints of these flickers still.

This led me to google "flickering in dark areas" and found that other panels from LG and Sony also have this flickering issue in dark areas. But most of them mention ATV4K, so I am curious why I am seeing this problem on my Shield Pro too. It's way too early for me to conclude whether this is a a streaming device issue or display device issue. Owners of other TVs do report that after firmware update or switching to a different TV, they no longer have this issue so I am inclined at this point to think the source of this issue may be device-dependent.

In any case, I will do more testing and find out what causes these flickering artifacts on my LSP9T and why filmmaker mode can suppress it, and not Game mode because Game mode is supposed to turn off all processing.


----------



## Transepoch

asimon said:


> What are the options we have to play 3D content on an LSP9T projector? i have a few 3D Blu-ray discs now and the LsP9T projector but I am searching for a solution.


The Samsung USTs don't support 3D, so your only option is to buy a second, get a splitter designed for separating 3D signals out to two projectors, and then sell pay-per-view access to the session where you try to align the second one's image to match-up. (It may not be worth your time but will at least help pay for the projector you damage in frustration.)


----------



## lakersfreak

Has anyone had an issue where LSP9T turns off on its own? About two weeks ago mine shut off about every 20 minutes while watching a movie through my Xbox Series X. It didn't happen again until tonight while watching a movie. I watched and played in between for several hours without it automaticallyturning off.

I have everything plugged into my Denon 4700h with one HDMI going into the LSP9T from the Denon.


----------



## JereyWolf

lakersfreak said:


> Has anyone had an issue where LSP9T turns off on its own? About two weeks ago mine shut off about every 20 minutes while watching a movie through my Xbox Series X. It didn't happen again until tonight while watching a movie. I watched and played in between for several hours without it automaticallyturning off.
> 
> I have everything plugged into my Denon 4700h with one HDMI going into the LSP9T from the Denon.


Yes, other users have reported this before in this thread.


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> Yes, the color shift defect definitely has something to do with dynamic contrast or processing. Maybe there is even a threshold setting over which the color shift would not occur. But I highly doubt it, and hold the position that it's a hardware defect since many owners running the same firmware does not experience this issue.
> 
> In fact, I notice another unpleasant issue last night when watching "The Night Manager" on Prime for the first time on my defective LSP9T.
> 
> In contrasty scenes, the dark areas would flicker with moving flashes and artifact blocks. I'll see if I can film a clip that shows this madness.
> 
> Turing on Game Mode did not fix it, but Filmmaker mode somehow suppresses it a lot but since I know where to look, there are hints of these flickers still.
> 
> This led me to google "flickering in dark areas" and found that other panels from LG and Sony also have this flickering issue in dark areas. But most of them mention ATV4K, so I am curious why I am seeing this problem on my Shield Pro too. It's way too early for me to conclude whether this is a a streaming device issue or display device issue. Owners of other TVs do report that after firmware update or switching to a different TV, they no longer have this issue so I am inclined at this point to think the source of this issue may be device-dependent.
> 
> In any case, I will do more testing and find out what causes these flickering artifacts on my LSP9T and why filmmaker mode can suppress it, and not Game mode because Game mode is supposed to turn off all processing.


I think that a main difference between any Game setting and standard filmmaker is the sharpness setting. I think game default is 10 and filmmaker default is 0.


----------



## lakersfreak

JereyWolf said:


> Yes, other users have reported this before in this thread.


Thanks. I tried searching and couldn't find anything. Is there a fix?


----------



## JereyWolf

lakersfreak said:


> Thanks. I tried searching and couldn't find anything. Is there a fix?





RxJedi said:


> So, I finally received my screen (absolute disaster, and couldn’t be more disappointed in Stewart Screens, but that is for a different post) but my LSP9t keeps turning off every 15 minutes no matter what…. All eco settings off, etc. any idea what could be causing it?
> Does it have a motion sensor on it? If so, could it being behind a large center channel be causing this? I can’t find any mention of a motion sensor, just an activity monitor that can be set to off of 4-8 hours…
> 
> seems kind of odd!


↑ that was the only mention that I could find and it didn't seem like there was ever a resolution posted.


----------



## lakersfreak

RxJedi said:


> So, I finally received my screen (absolute disaster, and couldn’t be more disappointed in Stewart Screens, but that is for a different post) but my LSP9t keeps turning off every 15 minutes no matter what…. All eco settings off, etc. any idea what could be causing it?
> Does it have a motion sensor on it? If so, could it being behind a large center channel be causing this? I can’t find any mention of a motion sensor, just an activity monitor that can be set to off of 4-8 hours…
> 
> seems kind of odd!


I'm having the same issue. Did you figure out what was wrong?


----------



## lakersfreak

RomainKa said:


> Hi, do you resolve that? My LSP7T does the same thing, in off-mode, the red light is blinking 2-3 seconds every 2-3 minutes (remote too) ... No HDMI cable udes for the test. Seems the Samsung trying to wake-up... Any idea of this issue?
> Many thanks !


Mine was doing the same thing a week ago! And last night it was shutting down on it's won every 20 minutes. Did you ever figure out what's going on?


----------



## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> I think that a main difference between any Game setting and standard filmmaker is the sharpness setting. I think game default is 10 and filmmaker default is 0.


Yes you are right about the sharpness setting. Strangely, on the second night, when I tried to capture some videos of these "dark area flickering" issue, all the shows that were problematic are no longer displaying the flickers anymore no matter what modes I am in. I rebooted Shield Pro multiple times before but did not make the problem go away, but it seems power cyling the LSP9T itself did the trick!!! Very strange.

Will keep monitoring this issue.


----------



## ACE844

avsscientist said:


> Yes you are right about the sharpness setting. Strangely, on the second night, when I tried to capture some videos of these "dark area flickering" issue, all the shows that were problematic are no longer displaying the flickers anymore no matter what modes I am in. I rebooted Shield Pro multiple times before but did not make the problem go away, but it seems power cyling the LSP9T itself did the trick!!! Very strange.
> 
> Will keep monitoring this issue.


Shield pro has an update to experience 9.0 which is Android tv 11, maybe that'll help?


----------



## Kantti

JereyWolf said:


> Yes, it happens for me every time. Very reproduceable.
> The video needs to be in full screen.
> 
> I'm really starting to wonder whether it could be related to faulty dynamic black or background dynamic contrast.
> If you have never noticed before, the contrast slider changes the white balance. This is very easy to see if you are looking at AVSForum with different levels of white/gray and adjust the contrast slider between 40 and 50.


Seems that I am also having the shift issue with some content. Haven't had time yet to find out which one does and which doesn't, but definitely seeing it now when using projectors YLE Areena app (Finnish broadcasting company's app), but most probaply not seeing it on Disney+ (at least didn't notice it in a movie) and definitely NOT seeing it when playbacking mkv files from my computer.


----------



## JereyWolf

Kantti said:


> Seems that I am also having the shift issue with some content. Haven't had time yet to find out which one does and which doesn't, but definitely seeing it now when using projectors YLE Areena app (Finnish broadcasting company's app), but most probaply not seeing it on Disney+ (at least didn't notice it in a movie) and definitely NOT seeing it when playbacking mkv files from my computer.


One thing to keep in mind is that I have never seen it occur with any non 16:9 content. In my experience, so far, letterboxing seems to stop the shift from occurring. I also use PC for .mkv playback with MadVR and can see the shift very clearly. 

If you're still within your return window for the projector, it may be worth doing an exchange while that's still an option.


----------



## JereyWolf

Question for all owners: 
What preset do you prefer to use? 
Do you use contrast enhancer?
Does your preference change for HDR and SDR?

After finally receiving the UHD Dune disc, I was testing settings on the night desert worm scene to dial in the best settings for shadow detail (*using MadVR to convert to SDR*). 

I made the settings for Standard and Movie presets identical and discovered that they act very differently. 
I started to experiment with contrast enhancer and found that it can work really well, on the Standard preset when shadow detail is increased and contrast is set between 25 and 30. 
Conversely, in the Movie preset, contrast enhancer seems (with all setting matched to the standard preset) seems to completely blow out highlights and has a bigger lift to luminance at the low end of the gamma curve.


----------



## asimon

Transepoch said:


> The Samsung USTs don't support 3D, so your only option is to buy a second, get a splitter designed for separating 3D signals out to two projectors, and then sell pay-per-view access to the session where you try to align the second one's image to match-up. (It may not be worth your time but will at least help pay for the projector you damage in frustration.)


Thanks for the information.


----------



## lakersfreak

lakersfreak said:


> Has anyone had an issue where LSP9T turns off on its own? About two weeks ago mine shut off about every 20 minutes while watching a movie through my Xbox Series X. It didn't happen again until tonight while watching a movie. I watched and played in between for several hours without it automaticallyturning off.
> 
> I have everything plugged into my Denon 4700h with one HDMI going into the LSP9T from the Denon.


I believe I figured out the issue....it was my Roku. There's a setting in the Roku where you can "turn off" your Roku automatically after 20 minutes of not using it. I think my LSP9T was also turning off every time the Roku would turn off automatically. I turned that setting off in the Roku last night, and so far so good.


----------



## djanderz

Finally found where to find usage hours 
It's on to the smart things app under information 
Also has anyone used the ambient light detection on the app to lower brightness?


----------



## lakersfreak

Anyone using Logitech Harmony remote with the LSP9T? I know Logitech stopped supporting Harmony remotes and that's why I can't add the LSP9T as a device, but I can manually add the remote, however the power button only turns on the LSP9T and won't turn it off. Is anyone using a different universal remote (like Safabaton)?


----------



## fanfan00000043

lakersfreak said:


> Anyone using Logitech Harmony remote with the LSP9T? I know Logitech stopped supporting Harmony remotes and that's why I can't add the LSP9T as a device, but I can manually add the remote, however the power button only turns on the LSP9T and won't turn it off. Is anyone using a different universal remote (like Safabaton)?


damn, my logitech harmony will arrive tomorrow, seems that lsp9t cant use it


----------



## lakersfreak

fanfan00000043 said:


> damn, my logitech harmony will arrive tomorrow, seems that lsp9t cant use it


well that's been my experience. Let me know if yours ends up working somehow.


----------



## bennutt

lakersfreak said:


> Anyone using Logitech Harmony remote with the LSP9T? I know Logitech stopped supporting Harmony remotes and that's why I can't add the LSP9T as a device, but I can manually add the remote, however the power button only turns on the LSP9T and won't turn it off. Is anyone using a different universal remote (like Safabaton)?


Please see the very first page of this thread for Harmony details.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bennutt

fanfan00000043 said:


> damn, my logitech harmony will arrive tomorrow, seems that lsp9t cant use it


Yes you can 
First page of this thread.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## lakersfreak

bennutt said:


> Please see the very first page of this thread for Harmony details.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


THANK YOU! I will try that tonight!


----------



## lakersfreak

bennutt said:


> Please see the very first page of this thread for Harmony details.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I added QN75Q90T as you've recommended on page 1, but it still doesn't work.


----------



## lakersfreak

lakersfreak said:


> I added QN75Q90T as you've recommended on page 1, but it still doesn't work.


FYI, I finally got it to work. Had to go into settings on the Harmony desktop app and change the LSP9T to "Remote" in the "Remote and Hub Assignments" setting.


----------



## IntriguedByTech

I have been reading this forum for quite some time now and finally pulled the plug on an LSP9T. This group gave me all the answers I was looking for before purchasing a UST. 
Overall happy with the purchase but am unable to decide on a screen. I have a light controlled dedicated room but I prefer the option of having a screen which can allow me to to open my windows without affecting the picture quality. There seems to be a lot of options but most of them are quite expensive. 

Considering 120" CLR screens (in order of price)
1. XY Screen Pet crystal
2. AKIA Screen CLR4
3. Elite Screen CLR
4. Grandview Dynamique
5. Elite Pro DARKSTAR UST

Not related but worth mentioning, I own a 77" A80J OLED and love the image. Not sure, If I will be able to get a picture quality like that with a UST and screen but anything close will really make it a whole lot fun.

I know choice is very subjective but has anyone gone through the same dilemma and decided on a screen among the above mentioned? Are the more expensive ones really going to make a lot of difference in terms of black levels and color accuracy? 

Are there some cheaper screens which someone is really happy with paired with their LSP9T?


----------



## lakersfreak

IntriguedByTech said:


> I have been reading this forum for quite some time now and finally pulled the plug on an LSP9T. This group gave me all the answers I was looking for before purchasing a UST.
> Overall happy with the purchase but am unable to decide on a screen. I have a light controlled dedicated room but I prefer the option of having a screen which can allow me to to open my windows without affecting the picture quality. There seems to be a lot of options but most of them are quite expensive.
> 
> Considering 120" CLR screens (in order of price)
> 1. XY Screen Pet crystal
> 2. AKIA Screen CLR4
> 3. Elite Screen CLR
> 4. Grandview Dynamique
> 5. Elite Pro DARKSTAR UST
> 
> Not related but worth mentioning, I own a 77" A80J OLED and love the image. Not sure, If I will be able to get a picture quality like that with a UST and screen but anything close will really make it a whole lot fun.
> 
> I know choice is very subjective but has anyone gone through the same dilemma and decided on a screen among the above mentioned? Are the more expensive ones really going to make a lot of difference in terms of black levels and color accuracy?
> 
> Are there some cheaper screens which someone is really happy with paired with their LSP9T?


to be honest, I have a $300 Elite Screen and the picture is amazing. LSP9T is my first projector, and I'm coming from a 2018 Sony 900H TV. Pic quality on the LSP9T is better than the Sony TV.


----------



## JereyWolf

IntriguedByTech said:


> I have been reading this forum for quite some time now and finally pulled the plug on an LSP9T. This group gave me all the answers I was looking for before purchasing a UST.
> Overall happy with the purchase but am unable to decide on a screen. I have a light controlled dedicated room but I prefer the option of having a screen which can allow me to to open my windows without affecting the picture quality. There seems to be a lot of options but most of them are quite expensive.
> 
> Considering 120" CLR screens (in order of price)
> 1. XY Screen Pet crystal
> 2. AKIA Screen CLR4
> 3. Elite Screen CLR
> 4. Grandview Dynamique
> 5. Elite Pro DARKSTAR UST
> 
> Not related but worth mentioning, I own a 77" A80J OLED and love the image. Not sure, If I will be able to get a picture quality like that with a UST and screen but anything close will really make it a whole lot fun.
> 
> I know choice is very subjective but has anyone gone through the same dilemma and decided on a screen among the above mentioned? Are the more expensive ones really going to make a lot of difference in terms of black levels and color accuracy?
> 
> Are there some cheaper screens which someone is really happy with paired with their LSP9T?


Are you located anywhere near a dealer where you might be able to view one of those in person?

I have the 120" Grandview and it's been really nice other than some wrinkles driven by humidity.


----------



## IntriguedByTech

JereyWolf said:


> Are you located anywhere near a dealer where you might be able to view one of those in person?
> 
> I have the 120" Grandview and it's been really nice other than some wrinkles driven by humidity.


Thank you for the reply. I don't think I have a dealer of a UST screen near me but I might be wrong. I live in the Seattle area though.


----------



## IntriguedByTech

lakersfreak said:


> to be honest, I have a $300 Elite Screen and the picture is amazing. LSP9T is my first projector, and I'm coming from a 2018 Sony 900H TV. Pic quality on the LSP9T is better than the Sony TV.


Thanks for the suggestion. Will keep my options open in that case. With a normal screen I am mostly worried about hotspotting(maybe the wrong term ) and quality unevenness across the screen.


----------



## sollyemmy

IntriguedByTech said:


> I have been reading this forum for quite some time now and finally pulled the plug on an LSP9T. This group gave me all the answers I was looking for before purchasing a UST.
> Overall happy with the purchase but am unable to decide on a screen. I have a light controlled dedicated room but I prefer the option of having a screen which can allow me to to open my windows without affecting the picture quality. There seems to be a lot of options but most of them are quite expensive.
> 
> Considering 120" CLR screens (in order of price)
> 1. XY Screen Pet crystal
> 2. AKIA Screen CLR4
> 3. Elite Screen CLR
> 4. Grandview Dynamique
> 5. Elite Pro DARKSTAR UST
> 
> Not related but worth mentioning, I own a 77" A80J OLED and love the image. Not sure, If I will be able to get a picture quality like that with a UST and screen but anything close will really make it a whole lot fun.
> 
> I know choice is very subjective but has anyone gone through the same dilemma and decided on a screen among the above mentioned? Are the more expensive ones really going to make a lot of difference in terms of black levels and color accuracy?
> 
> Are there some cheaper screens which someone is really happy with paired with their LSP9T?


I have the 123 inch from AKIA screens and i am pretty happy about it. Someone mentioned AKIA CLR stuff to be the same as ELITE CLR screens and i totally agree. I got samples from both of them and i couldnt tell any difference. I was able to snap the screen before the price bump late last year.

Also - I sampled it with an projection screen material (Matte White/ Gray or similar i think) and while the picture was better than the wall it wasnt as great as the CLR so i opted for the CLR screen and splurged twice the amount than the regular white/gray screen. Again the CLR was a personal preference of mine based on my viewing conditions.


----------



## IntriguedByTech

sollyemmy said:


> I have the 123 inch from AKIA screens and i am pretty happy about it. Someone mentioned AKIA CLR stuff to be the same as ELITE CLR screens and i totally agree. I got samples from both of them and i couldnt tell any difference. I was able to snap the screen before the price bump late last year.
> 
> Also - I sampled it with an projection screen material (Matte White/ Gray or similar i think) and while the picture was better than the wall it wasnt as great as the CLR so i opted for the CLR screen and splurged twice the amount than the regular white/gray screen. Again the CLR was a personal preference of mine based on my viewing conditions.


thanks for the reply. SO AKIA CLR4 and Elite CLR are almost similar. By any chance do you have any comparison photos or videos of the two?
How is the build quality of AKIA screens? 

If it is good then I might just pull the plug on that one. It is almost half the price of the ELITE CLR


----------



## JereyWolf

IntriguedByTech said:


> Thank you for the reply. I don't think I have a dealer of a UST screen near me but I might be wrong. I live in the Seattle area though.


You might have more luck finding someone on the forums that would have a screen set up and let you view it...

This probably doesn't help much with the comparison between different manufacturers, but here is a video I made showing my ambient lighting conditions in the room at the time of filming my Grandview screen.
Video


----------



## IntriguedByTech

JereyWolf said:


> You might have more luck finding someone on the forums that would have a screen set up and let you view it...
> 
> This probably doesn't help much with the comparison between different manufacturers, but here is a video I made showing my ambient lighting conditions in the room at the time of filming my Grandview screen.
> Video


Oh wow, your setup and the screen looks amazing. Very crisp and clear in the video at-least. The price for the Grandview Dynamique increased significantly recently. I am not sure if they will go on sale soon but if it does i am going to grab it..


----------



## fanfan00000043

bennutt said:


> Yes you can
> First page of this thread.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


its wired, not mention the lsp9t , it seems like harmony doesnot support apple tv 4k


----------



## djanderz

Does anybody notice that the picture seems to get a little worse after a few hours, seems to fix it's self by changing to dynamic for a few minutes then back to film maker mode. 
I notice after a episode ends when bright white text comes up to skip or change program etc 
it can be pure white at the start but a few episodes in it can change in tint from green or red.


----------



## JereyWolf

IntriguedByTech said:


> Oh wow, your setup and the screen looks amazing. Very crisp and clear in the video at-least. The price for the Grandview Dynamique increased significantly recently. I am not sure if they will go on sale soon but if it does i am going to grab it..


Yeah, you're right, is has gone up in price quite a bit. If you plan to order that one, I'd definitely recommend ordering from @ProjectionHead , projectorscreen.com. You'll get great support from them! Maybe there will be a sale coming for presidents day??


----------



## ProjectionHead

IntriguedByTech said:


> Oh wow, your setup and the screen looks amazing. Very crisp and clear in the video at-least. The price for the Grandview Dynamique increased significantly recently. I am not sure if they will go on sale soon but if it does i am going to grab it..





IntriguedByTech said:


> thanks for the reply. SO AKIA CLR4 and Elite CLR are almost similar. By any chance do you have any comparison photos or videos of the two?
> How is the build quality of AKIA screens?
> 
> If it is good then I might just pull the plug on that one. It is almost half the price of the ELITE CLR


Akia is Elite’s (to put it nicely) “super economy” brand. Engineered to be as low price as possible. The CLR should have better ALR than the CL4 and the Aeon frame is better than the Akia frame.


----------



## lakersfreak

djanderz said:


> Does anybody notice that the picture seems to get a little worse after a few hours, seems to fix it's self by changing to dynamic for a few minutes then back to film maker mode.
> I notice after a episode ends when bright white text comes up to skip or change program etc
> it can be pure white at the start but a few episodes in it can change in tint from green or red.


I have noticed that when I'm watching something with subtitles, the screen gets darker when the text appears, then brighter (back to normal) once the subtitle disappears.


----------



## JereyWolf

lakersfreak said:


> I have noticed that when I'm watching something with subtitles, the screen gets darker when the text appears, then brighter (back to normal) once the subtitle disappears.


See this previous post #1534.

You have a defective unit. If you are still within your return window, return it asap.

I've have been going back and forth with Samsung and their service center for 2.5 months, I've sent my projector to the service center 3 times to address this issue.
It's been observed by multiple users.



JereyWolf said:


> I set up my second unit and set it up next to my original unit via HDMI splitter. This new unit has a manufacturing date of October 2020. *Please keep in mind, the colors in my images are not close to how it looks in-person.* The "set-up reference" was captured before doing any picture settings adjustments, it's for reference only. After matching all picture settings on the new unit to be the same as my original unit I tested some of the scenes that I know trigger the white balance shifting effect. Right away I could see it's not present on the new unit. The gif attached shows the shift, but it doesn't look the same as it does in person. I've explained this before...when captured on my camera, the white balance shifting is mostly visible as the image darkening. I was able to see why this darkening happens by continuously measuring an 80% test pattern in HCFR using an X-rite i1 display pro.
> 
> The attachments shows my continuous measurements of an 80% test pattern while cycling the projector home menu off and on. Not shown in the attachments is the ~1.7 nit average drop that occurred with my original unit when the menu was open. I set up the colorimeter about 4 inches from the screen angled upward roughly 15 degrees, about 16 inches above the menu display.
> With my original unit, when the menu is open I measure a ~0.5% gain to green, ~1% drop in red and ~2% drop in blue.
> With the new unit there was no significant change when the menu was open.
> 
> This data matches what was reported by @avmagazine " I also point out *a couple of* rather 'depressing' ' *bugs* '. The first concerns *white calibration* : once you enter the menu, the red and blue components drop by a few percentage points: for calibration you are forced to enter and exit the menu each time and this is annoying."
> Supertest Samsung Trilaser LSP9T | Pag 6: Misure e calibrazione in REC BT.709
> 
> View attachment 3193710
> View attachment 3193711
> View attachment 3193713
> View attachment 3202998


----------



## avsenthusiast

lakersfreak said:


> I have noticed that when I'm watching something with subtitles, the screen gets darker when the text appears, then brighter (back to normal) once the subtitle disappears.


I have posted many workarounds in this forum but ultimately it’s up to you to decide whether you want to live with the defect with workarounds that don’t work in 100% of situations or demand Samsung for a normal good working unit. Some owners reportedly have had success after exchanging.


----------



## lakersfreak

avsscientist said:


> I have posted many workarounds in this forum but ultimately it’s up to you to decide whether you want to live with the defect with workarounds that don’t work in 100% of situations or demand Samsung for a normal good working unit. Some owners reportedly have had success after exchanging.


Considering the fact that my unit was an open box that I purchased for $3,200, I don't think I'm willing to exchange and pay double for a new one. I will look into the workarounds you are referring to, but to be honest it doesn't bother me too much. I don't ever use subtitles, so I don't see a true reason to be concerned. The pic quality looks phenomenal when I watch movies and play games.


----------



## JereyWolf

lakersfreak said:


> Considering the fact that my unit was an open box that I purchased for $3,200, I don't think I'm willing to exchange and pay double for a new one. I will look into the workarounds you are referring to, but to be honest it doesn't bother me too much. I don't ever use subtitles, so I don't see a true reason to be concerned. The pic quality looks phenomenal when I watch movies and play games.


..yeah that's a pretty sick deal. I'd probably overlook the shifting white balance in that case too. I just dealt with it for a year because I expected it to be fixed with firmware updates...but I paid full price when it was new, so I really expect a perfect unit from Samsung.


----------



## bennutt

fanfan00000043 said:


> its wired, not mention the lsp9t , it seems like harmony doesnot support apple tv 4k


I can confirm that it supports both. My harmony runs Apple TV 4K everyday.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## pastorteacher

Got an LSP9T coming (discount too good to pass up). I had an LSP7T and currently using a Bomaker Polaris (which isn't as sharp as the 7T but was brighter and more colors which I preferred). Hoping the 9T will be a significant upgrade over the Bomaker.


----------



## djanderz

Has anyone tried some kind of black cover or tape in the dip near the lens, I'm guessing lots of light bouncing back into the projection of the light from the glossy white cover affecting the colours.


----------



## Djxon

I've had my LSP9T for a couple of months now and I've noticed that the picture progressively gets worse with light bleeding from white parts (e.g. subtitles, like a ray coming from the lens up to the subtitles) of the picture day by day. The picture goes back to normal after cleaning the lens thoroughly with a microfiber cloth but I have to repeat this every 5 days or so. Anyone else have this problem? This is my first UST so I don't know whether this is normal for these projectors. Thanks!


----------



## JereyWolf

djanderz said:


> Has anyone tried some kind of black cover or tape in the dip near the lens, I'm guessing lots of light bouncing back into the projection of the light from the glossy white cover affecting the colours.


I've been using a mousepad with an arc cut into it. It works really well to block the green hot-spot effect that occurs when light areas are above dark areas.


----------



## djanderz

JereyWolf said:


> I've been using a mousepad with an arc cut into it. It works really well to block the green hot-spot effect that occurs when light areas are above dark areas.
> 
> View attachment 3228384


I was thinking about using something like this going all the way across


----------



## JereyWolf

djanderz said:


> I was thinking about using something like this going all the way across
> View attachment 3228530


I'd say it's worth a shot.


----------



## Aso519

Tamahome13 said:


> I haven’t found the answer online or in the manual yet, so I’m hoping someone here can solve this.
> 
> We purchased the LSP9T a few weeks ago - love the picture quality, but the sound was lacking, so we bought a Sonos Arc soundbar. We hooked the soundbar to HDMI 1, and it recognizes it ok and sounds great for Dolby movies.
> 
> However, when we turn off the Samsung and soundbar, instead of a solid red light on the projector, we get a blinking red light every 3 seconds or so. If I unplug the HDMI-1 cable from the projector connected to the Sonos, the blinking stops.
> 
> Does anyone know what the blinking red light means??


Any response to this? I’m having similar issues. Also have a sonos arc connected. Have tried new cables to no avail. Often times, I can’t even power it and have to unplug the projector and replug it for it to power on.

another issue with the Sonos Arc. There is a slight audio delay issue that goes away if I switch to pass through on the projector, but the sound goes away if I try to reboot the machine and I have to switch it to auto to get the sound back. Tried every setting on the arc as well as the projector to get rid of this delay (picture lips is faster than the sound).


----------



## MVu

djanderz said:


> Has anyone tried some kind of black cover or tape in the dip near the lens, I'm guessing lots of light bouncing back into the projection of the light from the glossy white cover affecting the colours.


I used Car Vinyl Wrap
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PYK74SG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

Cut one piece that fits all the way from front to back, leave enough border around to wrap down the sides to the vent slits. On front, cut slit along the inner border on each side so you can slope the tape down. Then use smaller cutout tape pieces to cover the 2 inner side walls next to the slope, Cut long narrow tape strips to cover areas around lens. 

Get another person to help you holding the edges while sticking the big piece to the projector Use a rubber scraper or similar tool, applying pressure from center out to avoid bubbles. 
I DID NOT use heat gun to semi-permanently harden the glue.


----------



## JereyWolf

MVu said:


> I used Car Vinyl Wrap
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PYK74SG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
> 
> Cut one piece that fits all the way from front to back, leave enough border around to wrap down the sides to the vent slits. On front, cut slit along the inner border on each side so you can slope the tape down. Then use smaller cutout tape pieces to cover the 2 inner side walls next to the slope, Cut long narrow tape strips to cover areas around lens.
> 
> Get another person to help you holding the edges while sticking the big piece to the projector Use a rubber scraper or similar tool, applying pressure from center out to avoid bubbles.
> I DID NOT use heat gun to semi-permanently harden the glue.
> 
> 
> View attachment 3229065


Dang, looks like a factory finish from the photo. Nice job!


----------



## lakersfreak

Does anyone's LSP9T red light randomly blink when the projector is off? Sitting here and just noticed it blink several times on its own. What does it mean?


----------



## Lawil

I am looking to buy the LSP9T but seeing a lot of reviews on AZN regarding the high defective rates. I will be shipping this abroad as its a lot more expensive in my home country, is there anything to look out for apart from the obvious "doesnt turn on" or "flickering screen"? I have 30 days to stress test the unit, thanks


----------



## djanderz

MVu said:


> I used Car Vinyl Wrap
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PYK74SG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
> 
> Cut one piece that fits all the way from front to back, leave enough border around to wrap down the sides to the vent slits. On front, cut slit along the inner border on each side so you can slope the tape down. Then use smaller cutout tape pieces to cover the 2 inner side walls next to the slope, Cut long narrow tape strips to cover areas around lens.
> 
> Get another person to help you holding the edges while sticking the big piece to the projector Use a rubber scraper or similar tool, applying pressure from center out to avoid bubbles.
> I DID NOT use heat gun to semi-permanently harden the glue.
> 
> 
> View attachment 3229065


That's amazing, is it easy to peel off if mistakes are made?
Any improvements to picture quality, I'm sure it will get rid of any green haze it reflects of the case


----------



## MVu

djanderz said:


> That's amazing, is it easy to peel off if mistakes are made?
> Any improvements to picture quality, I'm sure it will get rid of any green haze it reflects of the case


I got it on 1st try so haven't tried to peel it off yet, but it should be easy. They advertised it will peel off w/o damaging car paint, so it should be fine. Just don't apply heat.

To make it easier, start from the front, align the wrap with the border where top cabinet met front fabric cover, then lay down the wrap and go slowly with the rubber scraper toward the back. Still holding the back corners high away from the projector top, scrape down from center out slowly to avoid bubbles. Use sharp scissor to cut the two slits on the inner sides of the front, slope down the wrap slap, then use utility knife to trim where it met the bottom well. Cut out 2 smaller pieces, one for each side, overlay on top of the 1st wrap where you made the cut for the slope, this small wrap should go all the way to the outside to cover up the cuts and go down to the inner wall and overlap the slope wrap a little bit. Up close, you can see the overlaps, but a few feet away, they are not visible.

The best improvement, for me, is it gets rid of annoying reflections off of the old white top from viewing seat. Whether it makes a big difference in on screen colors, it's debatable. LOL. It sure does prevent much of reflected lights going back to screen and room.


----------



## bennutt

MVu said:


> I got it on 1st try so haven't tried to peel it off yet, but it should be easy. They advertised it will peel off w/o damaging car paint, so it should be fine. Just don't apply heat.
> 
> To make it easier, start from the front, align the wrap with the border where top cabinet met front fabric cover, then lay down the wrap and go slowly with the rubber scraper toward the back. Still holding the back corners high away from the projector top, scrape down from center out slowly to avoid bubbles. Use sharp scissor to cut the two slits on the inner sides of the front, slope down the wrap slap, then use utility knife to trim where it met the bottom well. Cut out 2 smaller pieces, one for each side, overlay on top of the 1st wrap where you made the cut for the slope, this small wrap should go all the way to the outside to cover up the cuts and go down to the inner wall and overlap the slope wrap a little bit. Up close, you can see the overlaps, but a few feet away, they are not visible.
> 
> The best improvement, for me, is it gets rid of annoying reflections off of the old white top from viewing seat. Whether it makes a big difference in on screen colors, it's debatable. LOL. It sure does prevent much of reflected lights going back to screen and room.


I did the same thing on the boxier LG unit. Instead of car vinyl, I got scraps from a local sign shop. Same result though.


----------



## am2model3

that wrap is very fantastic! nice mod!


----------



## JereyWolf

I received my projector back tonight, after it's 3rd trip to the service center since November 8th. I've only had it in my possession for 3 days since then.
This time I had hope that they would actually send me a repaired unit without the white balance shifting effect....but I set it up and within a few seconds I get the message "Due to system error the projector will shut down automatically"....and then it powers off. So, I can't even check to see if the replacement parts make any difference. Disaster. They even had it for an additional week after I received the email that the repair was complete and the explanation when I called was that they were doing QC checks on it.
Again, absolute worthless support from Samsung.


----------



## JereyWolf

JereyWolf said:


> I received my projector back tonight, after it's 3rd trip to the service center since November 8th. I've only had it in my possession for 3 days since then.
> This time I had hope that they would actually send me a repaired unit without the white balance shifting effect....but I set it up and within a few seconds I get the message "Due to system error the projector will shut down automatically"....and then it powers off. So, I can't even check to see if the replacement parts make any difference. Disaster. They even had it for an additional week after I received the email that the repair was complete and the explanation when I called was that they were doing QC checks on it.
> Again, absolute worthless support from Samsung.


And after two more hours on the phone this morning...the only resolution from them is to send it back to the same service center, for the fourth time.


----------



## pastorteacher

so, got an LSP9T, but it was open box, and I cannot get the picture focused at all. My old LSP7T focus worked just fine (maybe a little fuzzy in the top corners), and honestly my Bomaker Polaris 4K looks razer sharp in focus by comparison. All I can do with the LSP9T is adjust the focus all the way to the right (you can only adjust left or right on the lens) until it says it can't go any further.... BUt even then the image is still not crisp. I am certain this is not normal for the LSP9T, am I missing some other focus settings in the menu or something? It was a great deal for the projector and hate to return the thing, but again, even my $1800 Bomaker looks so much better by comparison.


----------



## JereyWolf

pastorteacher said:


> so, got an LSP9T, but it was open box, and I cannot get the picture focused at all. My old LSP7T focus worked just fine (maybe a little fuzzy in the top corners), and honestly my Bomaker Polaris 4K looks razer sharp in focus by comparison. All I can do with the LSP9T is adjust the focus all the way to the right (you can only adjust left or right on the lens) until it says it can't go any further.... BUt even then the image is still not crisp. I am certain this is not normal for the LSP9T, am I missing some other focus settings in the menu or something? It was a great deal for the projector and hate to return the thing, but again, even my $1800 Bomaker looks so much better by comparison.


I don't mean for this to be a dumb question, are you using a screen that is within the size range for the LSP9T? Have you checked the offset dimensions for the nominal image size and compared them to the image size you are projecting? I've had two units and the throw ratio on one of them was off slightly from the advertised numbers Samsung provides.


----------



## pastorteacher

JereyWolf said:


> I don't mean for this to be a dumb question, are you using a screen that is within the size range for the LSP9T? Have you checked the offset dimensions for the nominal image size and compared them to the image size you are projecting? I've had two units and the throw ratio on one of them was off slightly from the advertised numbers Samsung provides.


throwing it on a 110" vividstorm screen.


----------



## Nikky

I've had the lsp9t for several weeks now and have a question regarding color shift. I see the color shift happen only in the first 2 minutes after i turn on the samsung. Is the color shifting something equal to increasing? If I play the same scene after a few minutes, there is no color shifting anymore.


----------



## IntriguedByTech

I am not sure if it helps but i had the same problem and when i changed the color space to natural, the issue went away. In native i still see the issue sometimes


----------



## lakersfreak

lakersfreak said:


> Does anyone's LSP9T red light randomly blink when the projector is off? Sitting here and just noticed it blink several times on its own. What does it mean?


so no one else? Maybe something is wrong with mine....


----------



## JereyWolf

Nikky said:


> I've had the lsp9t for several weeks now and have a question regarding color shift. I see the color shift happen only in the first 2 minutes after i turn on the samsung. Is the color shifting something equal to increasing? If I play the same scene after a few minutes, there is no color shifting anymore.


So...I've seen a change that happens in both of my units within a few minutes of powering on. I'm often using the projector with my PC, so I'll have a white or gray background on screen and within the first few minutes the colors will slightly change. It happens every time I start it up after it's been off for a while. I've seen it on a unit that has no white balance shifting problem and one that has the white balance shifting problem.


----------



## MVu

JereyWolf said:


> So...I've seen a change that happens in both of my units within a few minutes of powering on. I'm often using the projector with my PC, so I'll have a white or gray background on screen and within the first few minutes the colors will slightly change. It happens every time I start it up after it's been off for a while. I've seen it on a unit that has no white balance shifting problem and one that has the white balance shifting problem.


It's possible that when Windows 1st startup, you'll see the default color output from Windows...then after Windows loaded the ICC profile into its CMS, you'll see the color change because of the new ICC.


----------



## JereyWolf

MVu said:


> It's possible that when Windows 1st startup, you'll see the default color output from Windows...then after Windows loaded the ICC profile into its CMS, you'll see the color change because of the new ICC.


That's a good point. I'll try to see if I can prove that's the cause.


----------



## Dave Harper

lakersfreak said:


> Does anyone's LSP9T red light randomly blink when the projector is off? Sitting here and just noticed it blink several times on its own. What does it mean?





lakersfreak said:


> so no one else? Maybe something is wrong with mine....


Yes I’ve seen this as well. I believe I’ve heard it’s from the HDMI CEC, communicating with the connected source since it’s always in a standby state to turn in when you turn on the source. 

It could also be the network connection communicating with Samsung for updates, etc.?

I’m not positive on either of these. Maybe ask Samsung Support?


----------



## Nikky

JereyWolf said:


> So...I've seen a change that happens in both of my units within a few minutes of powering on. I'm often using the projector with my PC, so I'll have a white or gray background on screen and within the first few minutes the colors will slightly change. It happens every time I start it up after it's been off for a while. I've seen it on a unit that has no white balance shifting problem and one that has the white balance shifting problem.


So i guess my unit doesn’t have the white balance shifting issue but it is more likely at start up thing? At least i hope so, cause i like the picture a lot.


----------



## atm4141

hello,

ı try to connect my lsp7t to nad 778 home cinema receiver.
but no sound with expert setting
hdmi e -arc mode auto
digital output audio auto
dolby atmos compatibility ok
cec is open
buıt no sound 
can you help to how is your connection your projector to receiver with earc hdmi output for ATMOS
thanks


----------



## JereyWolf

atm4141 said:


> hello,
> 
> ı try to connect my lsp7t to nad 778 home cinema receiver.
> but no sound with expert setting
> hdmi e -arc mode auto
> digital output audio auto
> dolby atmos compatibility ok
> cec is open
> buıt no sound
> can you help to how is your connection your projector to receiver with earc hdmi output for ATMOS
> thanks


At the top level of the sound settings menu, there is a setting called "sound output". Is receiver selected there?


----------



## atm4141

of course it has been selected ..
hdmi output is seems to be working but there is no sound output.
can you write to me your setting with denon receiver?
thx..


----------



## stfidel

EPP pricing on Samsung LSP9T 3999


----------



## Kid Ulysses

Gaaaaah. Does anyone notice that if you set colour space to custom and tweak any colours (which I do in order to tame reds and reduce the magenta in them) it always seems to change back to default when you switch off the projector and back on again. Super annoying!!!!!!!

The only way to resolve this is to go back into colour space then it reacts and makes the changes once again.

Really hope there’s a better solution or workaround!


----------



## Kid Ulysses

By the way - If anyone has a great custom EDID they know about when using the HDFury Vertex 2 and Apple TV with this projector please share. The ones I have used up to now (Custom EDID 10,9 and 5) aren't quite right. The blues seem CRAZY saturated on them (to the point where it looks weird) and grass sometimes looks really blue/green instead of a natural yellow/green. Custom 10 is about the most realistic but seems a little washed out compared to the others in terms of overall saturation.


----------



## JereyWolf

Kid Ulysses said:


> Gaaaaah. Does anyone notice that if you set colour space to custom and tweak any colours (which I do in order to tame reds and reduce the magenta in them) it always seems to change back to default when you switch off the projector and back on again. Super annoying!!!!!!!
> 
> The only way to resolve this is to go back into colour space then it reacts and makes the changes once again.
> 
> Really hope there’s a better solution or workaround!


Yeah, there's definitely a bug in the CMS. I've seen this while taking measurements too.


----------



## Kid Ulysses

JereyWolf said:


> Yeah, there's definitely a bug in the CMS. I've seen this while taking measurements too.


I guess its good it not just me. Really hope there is some update OR some workaround though. I cant be going into CMS settings EVERY time when I turn in the projector.


----------



## jesperf

I have a problem. I've seen it in a few other photos here, but not as exaggerated as in my case. Basically the top of the picture is sagging down. Can't figure out what the problem is. This is a brand-new LSP9T and a brand-new Grandview ALR Dynamique Short Throw 120" screen. Every surface has been made level with a spirit level. Is the screen assembled incorrectly? It looks perfectly flat to my eyes... Or is my projector bust? How do I rule out one or the other?

Grateful for any advice at all!


----------



## JereyWolf

jesperf said:


> I have a problem. I've seen it in a few other photos here, but not as exaggerated as in my case. Basically the top of the picture is sagging down. Can't figure out what the problem is. This is a brand-new LSP9T and a brand-new Grandview ALR Dynamique Short Throw 120" screen. Every surface has been made level with a spirit level. Is the screen assembled incorrectly? It looks perfectly flat to my eyes... Or is my projector bust? How do I rule out one or the other?
> 
> Grateful for any advice at all!
> 
> View attachment 3232717


Do you have a long enough level or straight edge to put across the front face of the screen's plastic border? It sort of looks like the top part of the frame is not as flat as the bottom part of the frame. 
Can you measure the gap between the wall and the front of your screen in 3 places across the top and 3 places across the bottom (left, center and right)?


----------



## lakersfreak

jesperf said:


> I have a problem. I've seen it in a few other photos here, but not as exaggerated as in my case. Basically the top of the picture is sagging down. Can't figure out what the problem is. This is a brand-new LSP9T and a brand-new Grandview ALR Dynamique Short Throw 120" screen. Every surface has been made level with a spirit level. Is the screen assembled incorrectly? It looks perfectly flat to my eyes... Or is my projector bust? How do I rule out one or the other?
> 
> Grateful for any advice at all!
> 
> View attachment 3232717


It's a screen install issue. Could also be that your wall is not perfectly flat. Happened with mine. The install team had to come out three times to fix it.


----------



## djanderz

jesperf said:


> I have a problem. I've seen it in a few other photos here, but not as exaggerated as in my case. Basically the top of the picture is sagging down. Can't figure out what the problem is. This is a brand-new LSP9T and a brand-new Grandview ALR Dynamique Short Throw 120" screen. Every surface has been made level with a spirit level. Is the screen assembled incorrectly? It looks perfectly flat to my eyes... Or is my projector bust? How do I rule out one or the other?
> 
> Grateful for any advice at all!
> 
> View attachment 3232717


It might be that your projector needs lowering a little, if you pull the projector very slightly away from the wall does it level off in the middle.
My table is to high for my projector so it dips in the middle like yours but if I pull it out it goes straight but then the image does not fit the screen.


----------



## jesperf

Thanks for the responses so far! 

It does sit a little too high, that's something I haven't really considered as a solution. But it's the easiest, so I'll start with that.
I think that the wall is straight, but I may have screwed up mounting the frame. I like the screen quality in general but the instructions... I can't imagine they were good even in Chinese. It will be the third time I disassemble it to get it right 😮‍💨Unfortunately I can't blame anyone else than myself and my helper. Hopefully I haven't bent the frame...


----------



## MVu

Kid Ulysses said:


> By the way - If anyone has a great custom EDID they know about when using the HDFury Vertex 2 and Apple TV with this projector please share. The ones I have used up to now (Custom EDID 10,9 and 5) aren't quite right. The blues seem CRAZY saturated on them (to the point where it looks weird) and grass sometimes looks really blue/green instead of a natural yellow/green. Custom 10 is about the most realistic but seems a little washed out compared to the others in terms of overall saturation.


I used Markswift2003's "Full + BT.2020 1000nit LLDV" EDID and set LPS9T Color Space to Custom BT2020, Gamma ST2084. Color is at factory default 25.

Movies from both my ATV4K and Zidoo Z9X do not exhibit crazy blue.

EDID attached. Rename extension to bin to use.


----------



## Kid Ulysses

MVu said:


> I used Markswift2003's "Full + BT.2020 1000nit LLDV" EDID and set LPS9T Color Space to Custom BT2020, Gamma ST2084. Color is at factory default 25.
> 
> Movies from both my ATV4K and Zidoo Z9X do not exhibit crazy blue.
> 
> EDID attached. Rename extension to bin to use.


Thanks! I will test this tonight!


----------



## Kid Ulysses

MVu said:


> I used Markswift2003's "Full + BT.2020 1000nit LLDV" EDID and set LPS9T Color Space to Custom BT2020, Gamma ST2084. Color is at factory default 25.
> 
> Movies from both my ATV4K and Zidoo Z9X do not exhibit crazy blue.
> 
> EDID attached. Rename extension to bin to use.


I've downloaded the EDID - how do I activate it? Seems a little confusing on the EDID window as to what to do.


----------



## MVu

Kid Ulysses said:


> I've uploaded the EDID - how do I activate it?


I used a Vertex 1 so I'm not familiar with Vertex 2.
Markswift2003 has instruction on Zidoo forum, link here. Scroll down 1st post and download his Vertex 2 pdf.
Recommended Settings and other useful stuff for RTD1619 Players (naming file updated Jan 22)

In Step 3, EDID tab, instead of selecting 10, , select a custom empty slot, then Load from File, browse to and select his custom EDID in previous post, which will load into the slot you selected, but the name will not be shown. Click on button to Write to Vertex.

Make sure all other settings on HDR/AVI tab are same as shown in the pdf.


----------



## Kid Ulysses

MVu said:


> I used a Vertex 1 so I'm not familiar with Vertex 2.
> Markswift2003 has instruction on Zidoo forum, link here. Scroll down 1st post and download his Vertex 2 pdf.
> Recommended Settings and other useful stuff for RTD1619 Players (naming file updated Jan 22)
> 
> In Step 3, EDID tab, instead of selecting 10, , select a custom empty slot, then Load from File, browse to and select his custom EDID in previous post, which will load into the slot you selected, but the name will not be shown. Click on button to Write to Vertex.
> 
> Make sure all other settings on HDR/AVI tab are same as shown in the pdf.


Thankyou!!!!


----------



## wnydel2

Question, I think I’m set on buying something. Everywhere from long throws to TVs and USTs, then I go into the thread dedicated to the one I think I’m sold on and see people with tons of issues and it scares me away. The same thing seems to be happening here. If I could do I survey, I would. 

Are the majority of owners happy or do you have buyers remorse? Are the common problems discussed minor issues that aren’t a big deal (as in something your average person might not notice or care about)? Or are they big deals that my wife, kids and friends will notice and talk about how terrible it is?

I don’t want to make a several thousand dollar mistake, but every decision I think I make, I get scared away from.

this would seem to be a great solution for me and I’ve read great reviews, but now I’m getting second thoughts.

imput on general consensus and severity of problems from an average persons perspective are very much appreciated


----------



## MVu

wnydel2 said:


> Question, I think I’m set on buying something. Everywhere from long throws to TVs and USTs, then I go into the thread dedicated to the one I think I’m sold on and see people with tons of issues and it scares me away. The same thing seems to be happening here. If I could do I survey, I would.
> 
> Are the majority of owners happy or do you have buyers remorse? Are the common problems discussed minor issues that aren’t a big deal (as in something your average person might not notice or care about)? Or are they big deals that my wife, kids and friends will notice and talk about how terrible it is?
> 
> I don’t want to make a several thousand dollar mistake, but every decision I think I make, I get scared away from.
> 
> this would seem to be a great solution for me and I’ve read great reviews, but now I’m getting second thoughts.
> 
> imput on general consensus and severity of problems from an average persons perspective are very much appreciated


LSP9T is my 1st big screen projector. My previous TV was a 65" LG OLED.

Except for out-of-box inaccurate colors, especially red push, I'm happy with my setup, LSP9T & Akia 123" CLR4 screen.
I haven't tried other screens, with the Akia ALR/UST 0.8 gain screen (I might not be sensitive to), I don't see any speckles or rainbows from viewing seat, 9ft away. Up close, 1 or 2ft, I see some CA color fringing around white letters, but no issues at seat. Note that Akia CLR4 screen is ISF certified for accurate colors, according to the website.
IMO screens designed for UST is essential, whether you have a dark room or not. It's easy to test, shine a flashlight to screen or wall at that extreme angle from below, with non-UST screens, most lights will reflect off of screen to the ceiling and surrounding walls, whereas UST screens will redirect most light to front.

My LSP9T doesn't have color shift issues or any other problem.

I was able to do SDR calibration using ChromaPure 3 and i1Display Pro; but haven't been able to calibrate HDR mode yet. With the LLDV hack using HDFury Vertex, ATV4K/Zidoo Z9x, BT2020 color space for all materials, colors came out nice.

I'm very happy with the setup. Sharp, beautiful pictures and colors at 123".


----------



## lakersfreak

wnydel2 said:


> Question, I think I’m set on buying something. Everywhere from long throws to TVs and USTs, then I go into the thread dedicated to the one I think I’m sold on and see people with tons of issues and it scares me away. The same thing seems to be happening here. If I could do I survey, I would.
> 
> Are the majority of owners happy or do you have buyers remorse? Are the common problems discussed minor issues that aren’t a big deal (as in something your average person might not notice or care about)? Or are they big deals that my wife, kids and friends will notice and talk about how terrible it is?
> 
> I don’t want to make a several thousand dollar mistake, but every decision I think I make, I get scared away from.
> 
> this would seem to be a great solution for me and I’ve read great reviews, but now I’m getting second thoughts.
> 
> imput on general consensus and severity of problems from an average persons perspective are very much appreciated


You have to remember most people post stuff when they have issues.....that being said buying the LSP9T was the best home theatre decision I made in 10 years! Coming from a 75" TV, I couldn't be happier. The image quality looks better than my 2018 $3,000 75" Sony TV.


----------



## JereyWolf

wnydel2 said:


> Question, I think I’m set on buying something. Everywhere from long throws to TVs and USTs, then I go into the thread dedicated to the one I think I’m sold on and see people with tons of issues and it scares me away. The same thing seems to be happening here. If I could do I survey, I would.
> 
> Are the majority of owners happy or do you have buyers remorse? Are the common problems discussed minor issues that aren’t a big deal (as in something your average person might not notice or care about)? Or are they big deals that my wife, kids and friends will notice and talk about how terrible it is?
> 
> I don’t want to make a several thousand dollar mistake, but every decision I think I make, I get scared away from.
> 
> this would seem to be a great solution for me and I’ve read great reviews, but now I’m getting second thoughts.
> 
> imput on general consensus and severity of problems from an average persons perspective are very much appreciated


Even though I'm getting rid of mine, I really liked it a lot. I was previously using a 75" Sony TV and after moving to 120" with the projector I can't imagine going back to anything smaller. 
There are a lot of other options now for UST projectors at better prices and I'm sure the performance / prices will keep getting better.


----------



## wnydel2

If I do get one of these, I see the recommendation is 1 foot from ceiling and 3ft from floor? Anyone violate this standard, my ceiling is 6’10”. The wall is 12.5. I hope to fill as much as I can, what would be realistic given my constraints?


----------



## MVu

wnydel2 said:


> If I do get one of these, I see the recommendation is 1 foot from ceiling and 3ft from floor? Anyone violate this standard, my ceiling is 6’10”. The wall is 12.5. I hope to fill as much as I can, what would be realistic given my constraints?


I wouldn't go beyond 130" screen. Out of spec and you'll not get as sharp a picture.

Personally, as long as I have tall enough wall/ceiling, I don't care how far away from ceiling the screen is. The further the better, for less reflection.

The most important consideration for me is screen height in relation to eye level while seated. I don't want to have to tilt head up much to watch. Most screen manufacturers recommend eye level around 1/3rd of the way up from bottom of screen. But that might be too low for most people, the projector would have to be sitting on the floor to get screen that low. Bottom of my screen is ~30" up from floor and I have to custom make low cabinet for my system. Top of cabinet is 12 3/4" from floor. 3ft from floor is good, but I wouldn't go any higher than that. That's just my personal preference. I've seen setups where people hang their screen very high.

There's a reason why most museums hang pictures at eye level while standing. But whose eyes? a giant or a midget? LOL. At home, you do it for your eyes only. Forget the neighbors and in-laws too.
For sure, you don't see pictures coming up all the way near ceilings there.


----------



## djn2004

MVu said:


> I used a Vertex 1 so I'm not familiar with Vertex 2.
> Markswift2003 has instruction on Zidoo forum, link here. Scroll down 1st post and download his Vertex 2 pdf.
> Recommended Settings and other useful stuff for RTD1619 Players (naming file updated Jan 22)
> 
> In Step 3, EDID tab, instead of selecting 10, , select a custom empty slot, then Load from File, browse to and select his custom EDID in previous post, which will load into the slot you selected, but the name will not be shown. Click on button to Write to Vertex.
> 
> Make sure all other settings on HDR/AVI tab are same as shown in the pdf.


I have the exact same setup. I'm curious what your settings are on the LSP9T? Did you make changes to the white balance? Also wondering if you compared these Vertex settings to those from Dave Harper?

Thanks!


----------



## MVu

djn2004 said:


> I have the exact same setup. I'm curious what your settings are on the LSP9T? Did you make changes to the white balance? Also wondering if you compared these Vertex settings to those from Dave Harper?
> 
> Thanks!


Here's a copy of my notes










As noted previously, I haven't been able to calibrate in HDR yet, so I used factory color settings.
Without Contrast Enhancer, pictures look too dull to me so I either use Low or High
Same for Color Tone, sometimes, I don't like the yellowish look of Warm1, then I use Standard. 
I know, purists would jump up & down and scream to say turn off all picture processing and use Warm tones. But pick what looks good to you & make you happy. Until I can calibrate my HDR mode in Watm 1 tone, I'll stick to those settings.

Thanks to Dave Harper for discovering the LLDV hack.

Markswift2003, in one of his post, said if you use 10,000 nits in the Vertex luminance settings then basically you tell the source (ATV4K/Zidoo/Sony X700, etc) that the display can handle 10,000 nits, so DO NOT tone map anything. 

I asked him to create a 400nits LLDV EDID for me, but I saw no difference from 1000nits EDID and I think most TV/Projector manufactures calibrate and have their built-in engine maps to the standard, popular 1000nits signal. The 1000nits in EDID file name refers to DV luminance.

With above settings, the pictures/colors came out good enough for me to not require HDR calibration for awhile. In fact, colors using this LLDV hack & BT2020 are as good as my calibrated SDR mode with grayscale deltaE < 2.


----------



## wnydel2

What is the closest you have sat to the screen? What is the closest you would sit without thinking the image wasn't good? Primary seating isn’t an issue, but we will have some seats approximately 6 ft away. Just curious what the image quality will or won’t be at that distance?


----------



## 517carl

Hoping somebody with the lsp7t can help me. For now I'm using a Bluetooth soundbar with wireless subwoofer and rear speakers (Samsung hw-q60t) I know it's a low end setup, but for now my financial priorities lie elsewhere. I can't get it to default to pair with my soundbar, and have to do so in settings everytime I turn on my projector. Is this the lay of the cards or am I missing something?

-Carl


----------



## MVu

wnydel2 said:


> What is the closest you have sat to the screen? What is the closest you would sit without thinking the image wasn't good? Primary seating isn’t an issue, but we will have some seats approximately 6 ft away. Just curious what the image quality will or won’t be at that distance?


Just tried 6ft from my 123" screen. You don't need to worry about image quality at that distance. You won't be able to see pixels. Instead you should worry about dizziness, headaches or motion sickness  Some people are more susceptible to that than others. Also, you really need to exercise your eyes muscles for wider glancing from left to right. Once you need to turn your head to cover field of view, than you're too close. 6ft might be the limit.


----------



## MVu

I'll take this statement back
"With above settings, the pictures/colors came out good enough for me to not require HDR calibration for awhile. In fact, colors using this LLDV hack & BT2020 are as good as my calibrated SDR mode with grayscale deltaE < 2. "

After watching some more movies, the red push is still there, not as bad as without LLDV/BT2020 settings. 
Other than that, the VS10 HDR tone mapping without highlight clippings is very good.

Looks like still need to do HDR calibration.


----------



## pastorteacher

sadly had to send my LSP9T back. The focus definitely had issues and could not produce a sharp enough image, even at precisely 130" or below. Also, the rainbow speckle effect was pretty pronounced, never had that issue with my Bomaker Polaris.


----------



## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> I've been using a mousepad with an arc cut into it. It works really well to block the green hot-spot effect that occurs when light areas are above dark areas.
> 
> View attachment 3228384


I started using a gaming mousepad recently too, but I didn't stick it as far over the edge as you did in the picture, so I am still seeing a bit of "green streaks". Maybe I need to push it over the edge like you did here. 

Sigh... things that we have to put up with as LSP9T owners. No wonder you ended up going with the Hisense PX1.


----------



## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> Even though I'm getting rid of mine, I really liked it a lot. I was previously using a 75" Sony TV and after moving to 120" with the projector I can't imagine going back to anything smaller.
> There are a lot of other options now for UST projectors at better prices and I'm sure the performance / prices will keep getting better.


For now, Samsung still has the color, luminance and 0.66" chip advantage, and it seems there is consensus it has the best blacks. I may have to agree despite the sucky color / white balance shift issue that's plagued so many units. 

But it's just a matter of time that someone leapfrogs Samsung at its price point. Hopefully sooner than later and also with 3D too


----------



## Dave Harper

avsscientist said:


> For now, Samsung still has the color, luminance and 0.66" chip advantage, and it seems there is consensus it has the best blacks. I may have to agree despite the sucky color / white balance shift issue that's plagued so many units.
> 
> But it's just a matter of time that someone leapfrogs Samsung at its price point. Hopefully sooner than later and also with 3D too


It definitely has the best blacks.


----------



## Kid Ulysses

Anyone having their Samsung LSP9T turn on randomly by itself?

To be clear - the projector doesn’t start showing an image, but the fan kicks in and it’s clearly come out of sleep for 30 seconds or so.


----------



## avsenthusiast

Kid Ulysses said:


> Anyone having their Samsung LSP9T turn on randomly by itself?
> 
> To be clear - the projector doesn’t start showing an image, but the fan kicks in and it’s clearly come out of sleep for 30 seconds or so.


Never experienced this myself before. But a while ago there are some posts about other devices triggering the wakeup through HDMI-CEC. I would suggest looking into this area to see if it helps.


----------



## avsenthusiast

6-month mini update on LSP9T: 

Alright folks, just received my HDfury Arcana and it took only 1 min to enable LLDV on it and hook up everything, super easy.

My first reaction, why didn't anyone specifically mention it:

Improves shadow details
Improves highlights
Reduces or eliminates posterization
Produces more micro-contrast in smaller areas, otherwise known as "pop"
Solves the LSP9T defect of not switching color spaces properly between 709 and 2020 (it was a pain to have to go into Menu > Color Space > Custom, toggle back and forth before)
Brings the satisfaction of seeing "Dolby Vision * Atmos" on all capable Netflix titles, which I watch a lot
I could have run not walked to order one, c'est _la vie_

At last, LSP9T finally shines on Netflix and ATV+ shows.

By the way, the "cheapo" Arcana has a new firmware that enables maxLum at 10,000 nits so it doesn't have the low maxLum limitation anymore. Before, only more expensive models like Vertex2 has maxLum of 10,000.

Also, Arcana works on Shield TV Pro perfectly, no need to get ATV 4K for those who already have Shield devices (I assume it works on other models too).

Is it worth paying $250 for this matchbox size device to compensate for Samsung's poor decision of not including DV on all its displays? No. But I blame Samsung for this poor decision as most content is in DV so it leaves no choice if I want to get DV.

Doesn't HDR10+ shine too? Yes. It works as well as DV but the lack of content is an issue.

Finally, this is not HDfury's fault, but the dreaded color/white balance shift problems still remains.

For example, it's still really ugly when I play a movie/show with overlay opening credits (that is white). The colors of the whole screen keeps shifting as the white text comes on and off.

This is something that Samsung must address but aside from offering new units to exchange (I am on my 4th LSP9T). After sending my defective unit in, they just say there are no parts to repair. I simply don't understand why they'd rather let people exchange and exchange instead of fixing it permanently. I have paused the exchange game for now, seeing that none of the new units floating around is fixed. I don't know what I am going to do yet but at least Samsung admits it's a defect so they are not hiding this fact.


----------



## Kid Ulysses

This is boring I know but I am still having issues with the Samsung LSP9T waking in the night for a few seconds. I have it in my bedroom so it always wakes me around the same time. I have disabled HDMI CEC on the Samsung in case it was that but no joy.


----------



## Kid Ulysses

avsscientist said:


> 6-month mini update on LSP9T:
> 
> Alright folks, just received my HDfury Arcana and it took only 1 min to enable LLDV on it and hook up everything, super easy.
> 
> My first reaction, why didn't anyone specifically mention it:
> 
> Improves shadow details
> Improves highlights
> Reduces or eliminates posterization
> Produces more micro-contrast in smaller areas, otherwise known as "pop"
> Solves the LSP9T defect of not switching color spaces properly between 709 and 2020 (it was a pain to have to go into Menu > Color Space > Custom, toggle back and forth before)
> Brings the satisfaction of seeing "Dolby Vision * Atmos" on all capable Netflix titles, which I watch a lot
> I could have run not walked to order one, c'est _la vie_
> 
> At last, LSP9T finally shines on Netflix and ATV+ shows.
> 
> By the way, the "cheapo" Arcana has a new firmware that enables maxLum at 10,000 nits so it doesn't have the low maxLum limitation anymore. Before, only more expensive models like Vertex2 has maxLum of 10,000.
> 
> Also, Arcana works on Shield TV Pro perfectly, no need to get ATV 4K for those who already have Shield devices (I assume it works on other models too).
> 
> Is it worth paying $250 for this matchbox size device to compensate for Samsung's poor decision of not including DV on all its displays? No. But I blame Samsung for this poor decision as most content is in DV so it leaves no choice if I want to get DV.
> 
> Doesn't HDR10+ shine too? Yes. It works as well as DV but the lack of content is an issue.
> 
> Finally, this is not HDfury's fault, but the dreaded color/white balance shift problems still remains.
> 
> For example, it's still really ugly when I play a movie/show with overlay opening credits (that is white). The colors of the whole screen keeps shifting as the white text comes on and off.
> 
> This is something that Samsung must address but aside from offering new units to exchange (I am on my 4th LSP9T). After sending my defective unit in, they just say there are no parts to repair. I simply don't understand why they'd rather let people exchange and exchange instead of fixing it permanently. I have paused the exchange game for now, seeing that none of the new units floating around is fixed. I don't know what I am going to do yet but at least Samsung admits it's a defect so they are not hiding this fact.


I’m glad you’re enjoying the HDFury LLDV. It does have a lot of elements of the things you describe but I personally just didn’t get on with it. I actually just sent mines back.

I found the image too dim and flat with LLDV. Also weird colour rendition particularly red push in the shadows which really irritated me.

I did extensive A/B testing with familiar material and had a calibrated monitor next to the display at all times. Long story short, I just think the projector struggles a bit with HDR in general. There are some polls and forums regarding HDR and projectors in general with people citing similar things. After all HDR was primarily designed for super bright LEDs that are capable of much more brightness so in the end something has to give. Chiefly among them poor tone mapping and a skew in colour range IMO.

I think a lot of it comes down to personal preference and which aspects of the picture you value the most and cannot abide to be wrong. I know for example I might be trading in a little highlight detail and smaller colour space with SDR but weighing everything up the trade off is worth it for me as some HDR aspects on this projector I cannot live with comfortably. It could be once I have this calibrated properly I feel differently - but from experience I have had similar colour issues on my Sony A9F OLED which my calibrator COULD NOT eliminate so it makes me think.

Dont mean to rain on your parade - but I personally feel it results in a worse picture but if you prefer it then great. As an side I calibrate monitors regularly and colour grade for a living.


----------



## Dave Harper

avsscientist said:


> 6-month mini update on LSP9T:
> 
> Alright folks, just received my HDfury Arcana and it took only 1 min to enable LLDV on it and hook up everything, super easy.
> 
> My first reaction, why didn't anyone specifically mention it:
> 
> Improves shadow details
> Improves highlights
> Reduces or eliminates posterization
> Produces more micro-contrast in smaller areas, otherwise known as "pop"
> Solves the LSP9T defect of not switching color spaces properly between 709 and 2020 (it was a pain to have to go into Menu > Color Space > Custom, toggle back and forth before)
> Brings the satisfaction of seeing "Dolby Vision * Atmos" on all capable Netflix titles, which I watch a lot
> I could have run not walked to order one, c'est _la vie_
> 
> At last, LSP9T finally shines on Netflix and ATV+ shows…….


Those qualities have been mentioned numerous times over and over when describing this awesome solution if you’ve followed it for any length of time. 

I’m glad you’ve joined the club! 



Kid Ulysses said:


> …..I found the image too dim and flat with LLDV. Also weird colour rendition particularly red push in the shadows which really irritated me.
> …….


If you found it too dim and flat, something was wrong. That’s the attribute that’s helped the most with this solution.


----------



## Kid Ulysses

Dave Harper said:


> Those qualities have been mentioned numerous times over and over when describing this awesome solution if you’ve followed it for any length of time.
> 
> I’m glad you’ve joined the club!
> 
> 
> 
> If you found it too dim and flat, something was wrong. That’s the attribute that’s helped the most with this solution.


Appreciate you chiming in Dave! But in answer to your assessment- I’ve tried and tried to get something pleasing with HDR but alas always been unsuccessful. 

I haven’t just been just making knee jerk decisions about it. I even tried ordering a different Samsung unit to see if my first was defective but it was the same.

I’d love for someone to prove me wrong but it’s very difficult to be objective here and show categorically if there something up without seeing things with your own eyes. 

Ultimately I know I trust my eyes and that I've given HDR as much of a chance as I could.


----------



## avsenthusiast

Dave Harper said:


> Those qualities have been mentioned numerous times over and over when describing this awesome solution if you’ve followed it for any length of time.


You are right, the benefits have been mentioned before, but separately by multiple people across many different posts, and not consolidated into one complete list for LSP9T. 

So I created the list of benefits above that I actually observe in one single post to help others who are looking into this solution in the future. 

One feature that is not included in my list above is the use of a different EDID to potentially improve LSP9T colors, since EDID spoofing is not supported on my Arcana.



Dave Harper said:


> I’m glad you’ve joined the club!


Thanks and the credit still goes to you as the first person who discovered and shared your Vertex2 findings! 🙏


----------



## avsenthusiast

Kid Ulysses said:


> Appreciate you chiming in Dave! But in answer to your assessment- I’ve tried and tried to get something pleasing with HDR but alas always been unsuccessful.
> 
> I haven’t just been just making knee jerk decisions about it. I even tried ordering a different Samsung unit to see if my first was defective but it was the same.
> 
> I’d love for someone to prove me wrong but it’s very difficult to be objective here and show categorically if there something up without seeing things with your own eyes.
> 
> Ultimately I know I trust my eyes and that I've given HDR as much of a chance as I could.


Hi @Kid Ulysses I appreciate your emphasis on not making "knee jerk" statements about HDR, especially given the list of reasons you listed, eg. ordering different unit, color grade for living, calibrate monitor regularly etc

There is something that is not clear to me though. Assuming that my understanding is correct that you are not comparing the performance of UST to OLED/LED TVs, are you saying there is something wrong with HDR rendering on LSP9T or there is something wrong with LLDV HDR in general?

If you are referring to the HDR and red push on LSP9T specifically, at around page 50 of this thread, there were many technical posts about how the Contrast Setting on LSP9T is not linear. There were a lot of screenshots showing how color volume and accuracy changes at various contrast settings. Are you aware of and have you looked into this?

By the way, I completely agree with you it's hard to be objective without seeing the images, but on this limited platform, at least the settings could be our reference points. Could you share what settings on your LSP9T that you have tried that led you to the conclusions that you have come to? Perhaps I could dial in your settings and see if I have the same "subjective" conclusion you have.

Just trying to help. Not saying you are wrong in any way.


----------



## avsenthusiast

Kid Ulysses said:


> This is boring I know but I am still having issues with the Samsung LSP9T waking in the night for a few seconds. I have it in my bedroom so it always wakes me around the same time. I have disabled HDMI CEC on the Samsung in case it was that but no joy.


Some wild guesses 😅:

a pet walking and stepping on the remote
Alexa or Google routine set to wake things up every day
temporary power spikes and outages in your area with "power on after power outage" enabled
bad power supply cable
other IR triggers
other devices in the Samsung SmartThings account such as dishwasher and laundry machines* waking it up
* by the way, I love when LSP9T notifies me on-screen through SmartThings account in the middle of an engrossing show reminding me to move the load of laundry into the dryer so my partner doesn't come home and gets mad with me forgetting to finish the laundry


----------



## MVu

avsscientist said:


> One feature that is not included in my list above is the use of a different EDID to potentially improve LSP9T colors, since EDID spoofing is not supported on my Arcana.





avsscientist said:


> Some wild guesses 😅:
> 
> a pet walking and stepping on the remote
> Alexa or Google routine set to wake things up every day
> temporary power spikes and outages in your area with "power on after power outage" enabled
> bad power supply cable
> other IR triggers
> other devices in the Samsung SmartThings account such as dishwasher and laundry machines* waking it up
> * by the way, I love when LSP9T notifies me on-screen through SmartThings account in the middle of an engrossing show reminding me to move the load of laundry into the dryer so my partner doesn't come home and gets mad with me forgetting to finish the laundry


LOL! or a ghost in the room.

Anyway, Check Network > Expert Settings. Make sure it can't be woke up by LAN/Network devices.


----------



## MVu

Either I'm blind to RBE, speckles or other defects or I'm just lucky to get a good unit.
My LSP9T shows perfect black & sharpness as shown on the GUI screenshots attached


----------



## MVu

Just kidding...the screenshots were taken from within Zidoo Z9X, not with a phone or camera.
So Zidoo took pics of its internal video frame buffer.

But...my screen images came out very close


----------



## Kid Ulysses

MVu said:


> LOL! or a ghost in the room.
> 
> Anyway, Check Network > Expert Settings. Make sure it can't be woke up by LAN/Network devices.


Thanks both! I’ve checked this and it was disabled but have also disabled ‘wake up for mobile device’ in case that was the culprit. Let’s see. @avsscientist appreciate the touch of humour in your suggestions lol but unfortunately none of it seems likely in real world terms.


----------



## bennutt

MVu said:


> Just kidding...the screenshots were taken from within Zidoo Z9X, not with a phone or camera.
> So Zidoo took pics of its internal video frame buffer.
> 
> But...my screen images came out very close


As soon as I saw text with no pink drop shadow I was calling BS... but you made me look


----------



## Kid Ulysses

avsscientist said:


> Hi @Kid Ulysses I appreciate your emphasis on not making "knee jerk" statements about HDR, especially given the list of reasons you listed, eg. ordering different unit, color grade for living, calibrate monitor regularly etc
> 
> There is something that is not clear to me though. Assuming that my understanding is correct that you are not comparing the performance of UST to OLED/LED TVs, are you saying there is something wrong with HDR rendering on LSP9T or there is something wrong with LLDV HDR in general?
> 
> If you are referring to the HDR and red push on LSP9T specifically, at around page 50 of this thread, there were many technical posts about how the Contrast Setting on LSP9T is not linear. There were a lot of screenshots showing how color volume and accuracy changes at various contrast settings. Are you aware of and have you looked into this?
> 
> By the way, I completely agree with you it's hard to be objective without seeing the images, but on this limited platform, at least the settings could be our reference points. Could you share what settings on your LSP9T that you have tried that led you to the conclusions that you have come to? Perhaps I could dial in your settings and see if I have the same "subjective" conclusion you have.
> 
> Just trying to help. Not saying you are wrong in any way.


Thanks @avsscientist! It’s great in this forum people can get together to discuss these matters in a reciprocal way without resorting to mud slinging and being overly defensive from the off.

First of all - I just want to say I absolutely love this projector. It leaves my jaw in the floor more often than not. It’s leagues above my Sony OLED in terms of image quality in my opinion and has all the attributes of image quality that I prefer such as great shadow detail (my OLED looks crushed by comparison), good motion and absolutely sublime colours.

In answer to your question - yes it’s more about HDR in general on this projector. I just cannot seem to get a good image when this is engaged. I’m not literally comparing it to an OLED as that would be a little foolish, rather I am comparing some flaws in the colour rendering such as the red push in the shadows that also plagued my OLED despite being calibrated twice. So I really have an aversion to this and want it to be avoided at all costs!

Perhaps it can be calibrated out on this projector though? If so then happy days. I just need to bide my time to when I get it calibrated professionally. But as it stands the HDR presentation is very poor IMO despite my best efforts to resolve it.

I’ve read some of the posts you pointed to and it makes for interesting reading. Confirms a lot of suspicions I had. I’m actually aware of the contrast affecting colour accuracy issue. It’s seems to me that the lower the contrast the better the colour accuracy - even way down to 20 in my case.

If you think it would help - in terms of other settings for SDR I have colour on 25, gamma 0, sharpness 0, BT709, 2 point colour settings at red bias -14, green bias -3, blue bias 29, red offset -15, green offset -12 and blue offset -10. The tint is actually set at -15 as this seems the most accurate way to get decent skin tones without a magenta cast.


----------



## rigidz

My Samsung lsp9t turns on AV receiver ( Marantz SR6012) for no reason (over e-ARC CEC I guess). Any tips on how to troubleshoot this scenario to fix the issue ?


----------



## MVu

rigidz said:


> My Samsung lsp9t turns on AV receiver ( Marantz SR6012) for no reason (over e-ARC CEC I guess). Any tips on how to troubleshoot this scenario to fix the issue ?


Go to General > External Device Manager
Turn off AnyNet+ (HDMI-CEC)

You can also turn off HDMI CEC on your receiver.


----------



## avsenthusiast

Kid Ulysses said:


> Thanks @avsscientist! It’s great in this forum people can get together to discuss these matters in a reciprocal way without resorting to mud slinging and being overly defensive from the off.


well.. it's an online forum, it's very hard to tell anything sometimes 



Kid Ulysses said:


> First of all - I just want to say I absolutely love this projector. It leaves my jaw in the floor more often than not. It’s leagues above my Sony OLED in terms of image quality in my opinion and has all the attributes of image quality that I prefer such as great shadow detail (my OLED looks crushed by comparison), good motion and absolutely sublime colours.


This really captures the "subjectivity" you mentioned earlier. To me, great shadow details is good so I am with you. But to some, no crushed blacks = poor contrast. So unless we are side by side in front of screens looking at the same content, it's really hard to argue online what's good IQ and what's not.



Kid Ulysses said:


> In answer to your question - yes it’s more about HDR in general on this projector. I just cannot seem to get a good image when this is engaged. I’m not literally comparing it to an OLED as that would be a little foolish, rather I am comparing some flaws in the colour rendering such as the red push in the shadows that also plagued my OLED despite being calibrated twice. So I really have an aversion to this and want it to be avoided at all costs!
> 
> Perhaps it can be calibrated out on this projector though? If so then happy days. I just need to bide my time to when I get it calibrated professionally. But as it stands the HDR presentation is very poor IMO despite my best efforts to resolve it.


Yes, I also notice this "flaw" in the color rendering especially when it comes to red push in shadows. Maybe it's caused by incorrect calibration.

Are you aware of this post from @Jue Liang ?

Among other suggestions, here is one that may be useful:
"So my suggestion is that in SDR mode, if you pursue color and gamma accuracy, the contrast value is recommended to be set to 35. If you want to increase the brightness, it is best not to exceed 41."

For HDR, he actually recommends contrast setting at 45 to maintain brightness level and color accuracy.

Having said that, he has access to specialist equipment like Lumagen Generator and other fancy meters which I do not have, so it's hard to verify his findings.

But it sounds you might have access to professional equipment too, so I am curious to hear your take on his report and his methodology.



Kid Ulysses said:


> If you think it would help - in terms of other settings for SDR I have colour on 25, gamma 0, sharpness 0, BT709, 2 point colour settings at red bias -14, green bias -3, blue bias 29, red offset -15, green offset -12 and blue offset -10. The tint is actually set at -15 as this seems the most accurate way to get decent skin tones without a magenta cast.


One quick observation of your settings is that most of them exceed a value of 10 whether it's positive or negative. I have tried calibrating myself and ended up with these similar numbers. The irony is, I also tried some sample settings posted by @Jue Liang which is around +10/-10 and see better "overall color balance" despite the randomness. He even claimed in one of his subsequent posts that with his settings he got rid of all the red push. Again I don't have fancy equipment to confirm this.

Besides, my unit is a defective one suffering from color shifts when the menu is opened/closed or whenever there is bright OSD, I think whatever this defect is could also be causing some other shifts like the red push that is just impossible to calibrate away, at least on my unit that I have exchanged 3 times.


----------



## am2model3

yes the lsp9t has great Color from the triple lasers and its bt2020 color support! mine had the setting to turn on from network device prompts; it happened one night and was on all night long! was not happy. i turned that feature off right away. while nice to have; too many mobile devices can turn it on by accident. I finally have some time to proper watch my samsung so will dive in this weekend! 4K and Dolby Atmos here i come! Star Wars is on the menu. = )


----------



## Kid Ulysses

avsscientist said:


> well.. it's an online forum, it's very hard to tell anything sometimes
> 
> 
> This really captures the "subjectivity" you mentioned earlier. To me, great shadow details is good so I am with you. But to some, no crushed blacks = poor contrast. So unless we are side by side in front of screens looking at the same content, it's really hard to argue online what's good IQ and what's not.
> 
> 
> Yes, I also notice this "flaw" in the color rendering especially when it comes to red push in shadows. Maybe it's caused by incorrect calibration.
> 
> Are you aware of this post from @Jue Liang ?
> 
> Among other suggestions, here is one that may be useful:
> "So my suggestion is that in SDR mode, if you pursue color and gamma accuracy, the contrast value is recommended to be set to 35. If you want to increase the brightness, it is best not to exceed 41."
> 
> For HDR, he actually recommends contrast setting at 45 to maintain brightness level and color accuracy.
> 
> Having said that, he has access to specialist equipment like Lumagen Generator and other fancy meters which I do not have, so it's hard to verify his findings.
> 
> But it sounds you might have access to professional equipment too, so I am curious to hear your take on his report and his methodology.
> 
> 
> One quick observation of your settings is that most of them exceed a value of 10 whether it's positive or negative. I have tried calibrating myself and ended up with these similar numbers. The irony is, I also tried some sample settings posted by @Jue Liang which is around +10/-10 and see better "overall color balance" despite the randomness. He even claimed in one of his subsequent posts that with his settings he got rid of all the red push. Again I don't have fancy equipment to confirm this.
> 
> Besides, my unit is a defective one suffering from color shifts when the menu is opened/closed or whenever there is bright OSD, I think whatever this defect is could also be causing some other shifts like the red push that is just impossible to calibrate away, at least on my unit that I have exchanged 3 times.


Yes I actually read The post by @Jue Liang you refer to.

Out of interest what were the two point settings you tried that he had posed?


----------



## avsenthusiast

Kid Ulysses said:


> Yes I actually read The post by @Jue Liang you refer to.


Great! When and if you have time, I am interested to get your more in-depth take on it 🙏



Kid Ulysses said:


> Out of interest what were the two point settings you tried that he had posed?


Here it is



Kid Ulysses said:


> For anyone who would like to know my settings of the manual correction, they are R gain=0, G gain= -5, B gain=4, R offset =1, G offset=0. B offset = -2. A 3D Lut calibration would improve it further of course.
> Again, this may not work for you due to sample variance and screen difference.


But I only used these as starting points for testing, as it defies what we are seeing which is red push in shadows.

Why does he set R offset at +1 and also claims he doesn't see red push anymore? 

One curious thing though, after adding the Arcana, I am noticing less red push, but this might have been due to proper color space switching at the beginning of each show. 

I wonder if, without a spoofing device like HDfury, LSP9T is having troubles maintaining the same color space during a show. All these are hypotheses that I cannot test without professional equipment, especially on my defective LSP9T, whenever I activate Projector Menu the whole colors would be off already to begin with... argh...

But during whatever limited time I have to watch shows, I will pay attention next few days to see if this red push is still present while hooked up to Arcana. Perhaps on units with color shift defect there will be red push too, but on a "pristine" unit like what @Jue Liang has then his settings would work perfectly.


----------



## avsenthusiast

Jue Liang said:


> As you can clearly see from the screen shots I attached in my original post, there are light tails following bright objects on the black background, which indicates light reflection in the light path and/or the lens of this projector. With these *"light tails",* there's no way the ANSI contrast can be high. Maybe this is just my unit, maybe the reviewer got a golden sample, I don't know the answer. But if anyone want to know the real performance of their own setup, they should take measurements of color/brightness/contrast with their own unit, in their own room, on their own screen. And if you are using this projector in a non-optimum room, the ANSI contrast would be dominated by reflection from your room.


Ever since I changed my AVR and added HDfury this week, I started noticing this "light tails" that was described by @Jue Liang before. I didn't even know he noticed and described this before until I started looking for his posts on settings for @Kid Ulysses 

I wonder if it's my new AVR or Arcana that is causing this, or both because I have never seen this on my LSP9T before.


----------



## Jue Liang

avsscientist said:


> Ever since I changed my AVR and added HDfury this week, I started noticing this "light tails" that was described by @Jue Liang before. I didn't even know he noticed and described this before until I started looking for his posts on settings for @Kid Ulysses
> 
> I wonder if it's my new AVR or Arcana that is causing this, or both because I have never seen this on my LSP9T before.


I just noticed that I have been mentioned many times in this thread.

The light tail is not caused by any AVR or vidéo processor in my case. And I am pretty sure that it is caused by internal reflection. My NX9 also has that kind of reflection, but much less than the LSP9T. This reflection is much more noticeable in a room fully treated with black velvet.


----------



## Lord Avenger

Hi,

First of all, I apologize for a longish note here. At this point, after doing my best, I have to humbly ask help from this very intelligent community. After years of following AVS forum, this is my first post.

I have read through the entire thread here and I have tried to follow the tips to the best of my understanding, except the Vertex2/LLDV hack and a few other things which involves some more investment. I will try in the future.

I own an LSP9T. I have a dedicated HT, dark walls, no ambient lights etc. Akia CLR3 screen to go with it. Picture aligned well. Basic calibration done with Spears and Munsil UHD Disk. My signal chain is XBoxSeriesX, Marantz 8012, LSP9T.

I recently started working with DIY calibration to get the picture just right beyond the basic calibration. I have made a few attempts to do that with HCFR, i1DispPro. The patterns are driven from the S&M UHD disk. All this for SDR only at this point. I have disallowed HDR at the Xbox for the time being.

Need some help conducting calibrations.
1. Has anyone completed a successful and satisfactory calibration with the above?
2. If yes, I need some tips with 'meter positioning' (height from the ground, angle and proximity to screen) 
3. Which 'Display Type' to use at the start.
3. Any tips on which Gamma to select before kick starting the measures? 

On the LSP9T I have BT.1886 (0), Custom Color Rec709, Cont = 25, Col = 22, Tint 0, Shadow Detail = 0, Warm 2, Movie Mode (to gain access to 10pt white balance).

From my initial calibrations using the 'Projector' Display Type, I have noticed the following:
1. The LSP9T shows no Gamma variations between 80IRE, 90IRE and 100IRE. No change in brightness beyond 80. Is this normal?
3. I have completed the 2pt WB. But the Gamma is totally whacked. 40 to 80 are too bright. 80, 90 and 100 are flat at Gamma = 0.8. What may I have wrong?
2. In the 10pt White Balance calibration, changes to any RGB sliders at any IRE point seem to show 'no impact' during the continuous HCFR measure. 2pt Sliders show realtime changes on the graphs. I measure after removing the OSD. What could be wrong.

I will be very grateful for any guidance here.


----------



## djanderz

Lord Avenger said:


> Hi,
> 
> 3. I have completed the 2pt WB. But the Gamma is totally whacked. 40 to 80 are too bright. 80, 90 and 100 are flat at Gamma = 0.8. What may I have wrong?


What are your 2pt white balance settings


----------



## Lord Avenger

Thank you for the response. 

Here are my 2pt readings. I know this is contrary to the red push that exists already. Hence my thoughts that something is totally off.

RG 29 
GG 0 
BG 5 
RO -10 
GO 0
BO -1

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## djanderz

Lord Avenger said:


> Thank you for the response.
> 
> Here are my 2pt readings. I know this is contrary to the red push that exists already. Hence my thoughts that something is totally off.
> 
> RG 29
> GG 0
> BG 5
> RO -10
> GO 0
> BO -1
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


That seems a little extreme
I ended up by doing it by eye very small adjustments though, I would love to get a meter again but I remember calibrating my plasma and it was doing more harm than good due to accuracy of the meter and human error graphs looked flat though but by eye crap
My settings by eye are
RG 0
GG 1
BG 3
RO 0
GO 1
BO 1

Filmmaker mode
warm 1
Shadow detail 1
Color space auto 
Contrast 30 
Color 25
Tint 0 


I flick between filmmaker mode and and cinema both with exact settings to see the difference between the 2 when making 2 point calibration adjustments


----------



## MVu

Lord Avenger said:


> 2. If yes, I need some tips with 'meter positioning' (height from the ground, angle and proximity to screen)
> 3. Which 'Display Type' to use at the start.
> 3. Any tips on which Gamma to select before kick starting the measures?
> 
> On the LSP9T I have BT.1886 (0), Custom Color Rec709, Cont = 25, Col = 22, Tint 0, Shadow Detail = 0, Warm 2, Movie Mode (to gain access to 10pt white balance).


#2 I used a tripod stand with boom arm to mount the sensor. Sensor is about 1.5 ft from screen, pointing toward middle of screen, with the boom arm sloping down toward my seated eye level.
#3. For Rec709, BT.1866 is the correct gamma. Just make sure when you watch Rec709 materials, the LSP9T selects the correct Rec709/BT1866 combo. Otherwise, go to Color Space, pick Custom and pick Rec709.

I have Akia CLR4 screen with 0.6 gain. Yours CLR3 has 0.8 gain.
Even with more gain in your case, Contrast shouldn't be that low (25). Did you use a grayscale ramp/PLUGE pattern to adjust the contrast?

I calibrated my SDR mode using ChromaPure 3 & i1Display Pro. Movie mode, Warm1. Contrast: 35, Color: 25. After calibration, average grayscale DeltaE is < 2, before was 14.0.

According to Jue Liang in post #727:
"So my suggestion is that in SDR mode, if you pursue color and gamma accuracy, the contrast value is recommended to be set to 35. If you want to increase the brightness, it is best not to exceed 41. "

Especially with HDR, Spears & Munsil website says do not move Contrast away from factory setting because that's where most display internal tone mappings were based on.

I don't have experience with HCFR, so I'm also anxious to hear and learn about it from others.


----------



## Lord Avenger

MVu said:


> #2 I used a tripod stand with boom arm to mount the sensor. Sensor is about 1.5 ft from screen, pointing toward middle of screen, with the boom arm sloping down toward my seated eye level.
> #3. For Rec709, BT.1866 is the correct gamma. Just make sure when you watch Rec709 materials, the LSP9T selects the correct Rec709/BT1866 combo. Otherwise, go to Color Space, pick Custom and pick Rec709.
> 
> I have Akia CLR4 screen with 0.6 gain. Yours CLR3 has 0.8 gain.
> Even with more gain in your case, Contrast shouldn't be that low (25). Did you use a grayscale ramp/PLUGE pattern to adjust the contrast?
> 
> I calibrated my SDR mode using ChromaPure 3 & i1Display Pro. Movie mode, Warm1. Contrast: 35, Color: 25. After calibration, average grayscale DeltaE is < 2, before was 14.0.
> 
> According to Jue Liang in post #727:
> "So my suggestion is that in SDR mode, if you pursue color and gamma accuracy, the contrast value is recommended to be set to 35. If you want to increase the brightness, it is best not to exceed 41. "
> 
> Especially with HDR, Spears & Munsil website says do not move Contrast away from factory setting because that's where most display internal tone mappings were based on.
> 
> I don't have experience with HCFR, so I'm also anxious to hear and learn about it from others.


MVu,

Thanks for sharing your experience. Did you use full screen patterns or 15% patterns? Also, was the sensor placed square to the screen or was it at an angle? 

In Chromapure, what wad the display type you chose at the start?

Also, can you please share the 2pt calibration values and whether you ventured into the 10pt WB?

Thanks!

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## MVu

Lord Avenger said:


> MVu,
> 
> Thanks for sharing your experience. Did you use full screen patterns or 15% patterns? Also, was the sensor placed square to the screen or was it at an angle?
> 
> In Chromapure, what wad the display type you chose at the start?
> 
> Also, can you please share the 2pt calibration values and whether you ventured into the 10pt WB?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


Sensor was at angle to screen, sloping down with the boom arm. As long as the Window pattern is much bigger than the sensor at that distance, it wouldn't matter much. Don't remember I used 10% or 15% Windows. I picked Projector as display type.

I didn't do 2 pts WB. I jumped straight to 10pts, then to CMS to adjust 3 primaries + 3 secondary colors, then go back to fine tune 10pts.


----------



## Lord Avenger

MVu said:


> Sensor was at angle to screen, sloping down with the boom arm. As long as the Window pattern is much bigger than the sensor at that distance, it wouldn't matter much. Don't remember I used 10% or 15% Windows. I picked Projector as display type.
> 
> I didn't do 2 pts WB. I jumped straight to 10pts, then to CMS to adjust 3 primaries + 3 secondary colors, then go back to fine tune 10pts.


Thanks. Appreciate the prompt inputs.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Lord Avenger

Lord Avenger said:


> Thanks. Appreciate the prompt inputs.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


MVu,

A quick question sine you did the 10pt WB. Did you notice that the brightness of the window patterns remain the same from 80IRE to 100IRE?

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## avsenthusiast

djanderz said:


> That seems a little extreme
> I ended up by doing it by eye very small adjustments though, I would love to get a meter again but I remember calibrating my plasma and it was doing more harm than good due to accuracy and human error graphs looked flat though but by eye crap
> My settings by eye are
> 
> Filmmaker mode
> warm 1
> Shadow detail 1
> Color space auto
> 
> I flick between filmmaker mode and and cinema both with exact settings to see the difference between the 2 when making 2 point calibration adjustments


@djanderz congrats on your LSP9T and welcome to this thread! 

Just a couple of clarifying questions. When you enter and exit projector menu, do you notice any shifting of colors or white balance of the whole screen? 

Also, do you like watching content in high contrast at the risk of losing some highlights, or do you prefer preserving all shadows and not crush them? Or both?


----------



## MVu

Lord Avenger said:


> MVu,
> 
> A quick question sine you did the 10pt WB. Did you notice that the brightness of the window patterns remain the same from 80IRE to 100IRE?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


No, they were not the same, and the measured value confirmed it.


----------



## Lord Avenger

MVu said:


> No, they were not the same, and the measured value confirmed it.


Thanks for being so responsive and helpful. If I may, which patterns did you use? With the Spears and Munsil UHD disk played via XBOX S X, it does not change brightness one bit from 80IRE window onwards. Either the patterns are wrong or the unit has an issue. Splitting hairs. My gamma curves nose dive after 70 to very bright levels. 

To add to the woes, the RGB sliders in the 10pt WB make no difference to real time measurements when I change them. Can't see what I am missing.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## MVu

Lord Avenger said:


> Thanks for being so responsive and helpful. If I may, which patterns did you use? With the Spears and Munsil UHD disk played via XBOX S X, it does not change brightness one bit from 80IRE window onwards. Either the patterns are wrong or the unit has an issue. Splitting hairs. My gamma curves nose dive after 70 to very bright levels.
> 
> To add to the woes, the RGB sliders in the 10pt WB make no difference to real time measurements when I change them. Can't see what I am missing.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


I used the built-in SDR patterns from ChromaPure 3. 
I thought HCFR also has built-in patterns, why don't you try that?
Try reading this thread to see if it helps
HCFR automatic pattern generator

It sounds like you might have used wrong patterns. The 80% pattern might be too bright and projector clipped. Same as other patterns above 80. That might explains why you see same brightness for 80+ patterns.

It might be best to go to HCFR forum and get help from there.


----------



## djanderz

avsscientist said:


> @djanderz congrats on your LSP9T and welcome to this thread!
> 
> Just a couple of clarifying questions. When you enter and exit projector menu, do you notice any shifting of colors or white balance of the whole screen?
> 
> Also, do you like watching content in high contrast at the risk of losing some highlights, or do you prefer preserving all shadows and not crush them? Or both?


I'm not noticing any shifts in color at the moment 
I'm hoping that I won't notice that when I change screens 
I will have to boost the contrast up when I use my 0.4 gain screen 
I do prefer shadow detail over crushed blacks as lots of shows have dark scenes in them 
I leave the Contrast Enhancer off also


----------



## Lord Avenger

All, another beaten to death question. I am beginning to think my projector is clipping high after 80 IRE and therefore it all looks equal luminance after 80. I may be trying to show whites greater than 235.

What should be the Black Level set in LSP9T and the corresponding setting in XBoxSeriesX?

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Djxon

avsscientist said:


> Ever since I changed my AVR and added HDfury this week, I started noticing this "light tails" that was described by @Jue Liang before. I didn't even know he noticed and described this before until I started looking for his posts on settings for @Kid Ulysses
> 
> I wonder if it's my new AVR or Arcana that is causing this, or both because I have never seen this on my LSP9T before.


These “light tails” sound like what I’m experiencing too. For some reason they disappear after I clean the lens thoroughly which makes me think it has something to do with dust buildup? Not using an AVR at the moment just the projector on its own. Weird if only some units suffer from this though


----------



## Kid Ulysses

When viewing SDR should BT1886 gamma be set to -2? Is this correct?

Plus - anyone seeing pinky highlights in skin in SDR as well? Cant seem to dial them out.


----------



## avsenthusiast

Kid Ulysses said:


> When viewing SDR should BT1886 gamma be set to -2? Is this correct?
> 
> Plus - anyone seeing pinky highlights in skin in SDR as well? Cant seem to dial them out.


Have you tried going into Color Mode and toggle between Custom, Normal, Auto and back to whatever you set originally? 

Mine suffers from this same issue before but after adding HDfury Arcana, the auto switching bug is minimized to about 10% compared to before. I don't know what sequence / shows would stop LSP9T from switching color space properly, so far it seems random. 

But having said that, now I am seeing red push on some shows but not on others. Really frustrating trying to nail down what exactly is causing these issues.


----------



## avsenthusiast

Djxon said:


> These “light tails” sound like what I’m experiencing too. For some reason they disappear after I clean the lens thoroughly which makes me think it has something to do with dust buildup? Not using an AVR at the moment just the projector on its own. Weird if only some units suffer from this though


I also had a mouse pad close to the lens attempting to stop the "green blob" issue, but after removing it, the "light tails" seem to have improved but I am back to having "green blobs"


----------



## Kid Ulysses

avsscientist said:


> Have you tried going into Color Mode and toggle between Custom, Normal, Auto and back to whatever you set originally?
> 
> Mine suffers from this same issue before but after adding HDfury Arcana, the auto switching bug is minimized to about 10% compared to before. I don't know what sequence / shows would stop LSP9T from switching color space properly, so far it seems random.
> 
> But having said that, now I am seeing red push on some shows but not on others. Really frustrating trying to nail down what exactly is causing these issues.


Thanks but it is more specifically a red highlight right at the extreme end of the highlight spectrum. Can be seen in skin where there is a highlight. Can also sometimes be seen in clouds etc. Not really a switching issue. I have totally dialled out all colour casts from greyscale including red push and the three primaries look pretty bang on - even green grass etc (which took some doing!). Shame because all the rest seems almost perfect now.

It’s strange because it seems to be in the BT709 colour space only. BT2020 doesn’t have this at all? Really hope it isn’t an inherent flaw because I plan to view all my movies in SDR and BT709 only for reasons described previously. 

I suspect it may need a proper 10 point calibration to remove it completely. Just wondering if anyone else had experienced this and successfully removed it.

Apart from this minor issue I can live with the colour and am totally comfortable with colour accuracy - prior to getting it professionally calibrated once I move house and have it set up properly.


----------



## JereyWolf

Lord Avenger said:


> Hi,
> 
> First of all, I apologize for a longish note here. At this point, after doing my best, I have to humbly ask help from this very intelligent community. After years of following AVS forum, this is my first post.
> 
> I have read through the entire thread here and I have tried to follow the tips to the best of my understanding, except the Vertex2/LLDV hack and a few other things which involves some more investment. I will try in the future.
> 
> I own an LSP9T. I have a dedicated HT, dark walls, no ambient lights etc. Akia CLR3 screen to go with it. Picture aligned well. Basic calibration done with Spears and Munsil UHD Disk. My signal chain is XBoxSeriesX, Marantz 8012, LSP9T.
> 
> I recently started working with DIY calibration to get the picture just right beyond the basic calibration. I have made a few attempts to do that with HCFR, i1DispPro. The patterns are driven from the S&M UHD disk. All this for SDR only at this point. I have disallowed HDR at the Xbox for the time being.
> 
> Need some help conducting calibrations.
> 1. Has anyone completed a successful and satisfactory calibration with the above?
> 2. If yes, I need some tips with 'meter positioning' (height from the ground, angle and proximity to screen)
> 3. Which 'Display Type' to use at the start.
> 3. Any tips on which Gamma to select before kick starting the measures?
> 
> On the LSP9T I have BT.1886 (0), Custom Color Rec709, Cont = 25, Col = 22, Tint 0, Shadow Detail = 0, Warm 2, Movie Mode (to gain access to 10pt white balance).
> 
> From my initial calibrations using the 'Projector' Display Type, I have noticed the following:
> 1. The LSP9T shows no Gamma variations between 80IRE, 90IRE and 100IRE. No change in brightness beyond 80. Is this normal?
> 3. I have completed the 2pt WB. But the Gamma is totally whacked. 40 to 80 are too bright. 80, 90 and 100 are flat at Gamma = 0.8. What may I have wrong?
> 2. In the 10pt White Balance calibration, changes to any RGB sliders at any IRE point seem to show 'no impact' during the continuous HCFR measure. 2pt Sliders show realtime changes on the graphs. I measure after removing the OSD. What could be wrong.
> 
> I will be very grateful for any guidance here.


I also use HCFR and i1Display Pro. 

I always use the HCFR pattern generator. 

For a very long time, I was getting very low errors on white balance I always felt my images were too red.
Now, I'm fairly certain this is due to spectral resolution of that colorimeter. I have started to compensate my measurements for D65 color temp to have a RGB balance of R89%, G103% and B102%.
Those numbers are based on Emidio's article here where he talks about measuring an already calibrated LSP9T (using gear that costs more than the projector) with the i1 display pro. 









Samsung UST trilaser The Premiere LSP9T | Pag 2: Misure sui primari RGB e conclusioni


Anteprima con misure sul sistema d'illuminamento 'tri-laser' del nuovo videoproiettore Samsung LSP9T 'The Premiere', probabilmente il primo prodotto a superare i confini dello spazio colore REC BT.2020 ad arrivare sul mercato italiano, con tecnologia DLP, ottica a tiro ultra-corto e compatibile...



www.avmagazine.it





My best results have come from selecting Wide Gamut RGB LED as the display type, and aiming for an RGB balance across all of the white patterns of R89%, G103%, B102%. I spent many sessions getting the white balance to read near perfect with delta error less than 1 across all patterns....but always felt that it was too red. After reading Emidio's measurement results and realizing that red needed to be compensated for, it completely changed my end result. 

For meter placement, I use a tripod and place it about 4 inches from the screen, aiming upward at roughly 30°.


----------



## pal de

Kid Ulysses said:


> Thanks @avsscientist! It’s great in this forum people can get together to discuss these matters in a reciprocal way without resorting to mud slinging and being overly defensive from the off.
> 
> First of all - I just want to say I absolutely love this projector. It leaves my jaw in the floor more often than not. It’s leagues above my Sony OLED in terms of image quality in my opinion and has all the attributes of image quality that I prefer such as great shadow detail (my OLED looks crushed by comparison), good motion and absolutely sublime colours.
> 
> In answer to your question - yes it’s more about HDR in general on this projector. I just cannot seem to get a good image when this is engaged. I’m not literally comparing it to an OLED as that would be a little foolish, rather I am comparing some flaws in the colour rendering such as the red push in the shadows that also plagued my OLED despite being calibrated twice. So I really have an aversion to this and want it to be avoided at all costs!
> 
> Perhaps it can be calibrated out on this projector though? If so then happy days. I just need to bide my time to when I get it calibrated professionally. But as it stands the HDR presentation is very poor IMO despite my best efforts to resolve it.
> 
> I’ve read some of the posts you pointed to and it makes for interesting reading. Confirms a lot of suspicions I had. I’m actually aware of the contrast affecting colour accuracy issue. It’s seems to me that the lower the contrast the better the colour accuracy - even way down to 20 in my case.
> 
> If you think it would help - in terms of other settings for SDR I have colour on 25, gamma 0, sharpness 0, BT709, 2 point colour settings at red bias -14, green bias -3, blue bias 29, red offset -15, green offset -12 and blue offset -10. The tint is actually set at -15 as this seems the most accurate way to get decent skin tones without a magenta cast.


*Thx dude,your setting helps a lot , images become more beautiful under your setting! fantastic! did you use any professional tools to get the right color? thats really amazing !*


----------



## pal de

Kid Ulysses said:


> Thanks @avsscientist! It’s great in this forum people can get together to discuss these matters in a reciprocal way without resorting to mud slinging and being overly defensive from the off.
> 
> First of all - I just want to say I absolutely love this projector. It leaves my jaw in the floor more often than not. It’s leagues above my Sony OLED in terms of image quality in my opinion and has all the attributes of image quality that I prefer such as great shadow detail (my OLED looks crushed by comparison), good motion and absolutely sublime colours.
> 
> In answer to your question - yes it’s more about HDR in general on this projector. I just cannot seem to get a good image when this is engaged. I’m not literally comparing it to an OLED as that would be a little foolish, rather I am comparing some flaws in the colour rendering such as the red push in the shadows that also plagued my OLED despite being calibrated twice. So I really have an aversion to this and want it to be avoided at all costs!
> 
> Perhaps it can be calibrated out on this projector though? If so then happy days. I just need to bide my time to when I get it calibrated professionally. But as it stands the HDR presentation is very poor IMO despite my best efforts to resolve it.
> 
> I’ve read some of the posts you pointed to and it makes for interesting reading. Confirms a lot of suspicions I had. I’m actually aware of the contrast affecting colour accuracy issue. It’s seems to me that the lower the contrast the better the colour accuracy - even way down to 20 in my case.
> 
> If you think it would help - in terms of other settings for SDR I have colour on 25, gamma 0, sharpness 0, BT709, 2 point colour settings at red bias -14, green bias -3, blue bias 29, red offset -15, green offset -12 and blue offset -10. The tint is actually set at -15 as this seems the most accurate way to get decent skin tones without a magenta cast.


and how you choose your color tempreture? warm2 or warm1?


----------



## avsenthusiast

avmagazine said:


> Thank you. BTW I'm here also because people like you, with time and motivation to find out useful information from this projector. I believe I'll be back to review the Samsung LSP9T after a firmware update, hoply soon.
> Emidio


Back when you said the above, Emidio, I was still hopeful that Samsung would do something to improve the many bugs that have been discovered. But it's been such a long time, I wonder if LSP9T is going to be "EOL" soon. 

Even in this thread there hasn't been recent calls for firmware update, and there isn't a bug-tracking list that I am aware of. So here is my one single vote:

@Samsung if you are listening/reading, please, I would like a firmware update on the LSP9T to potentially resolve many of the issues reported here.


----------



## Kid Ulysses

pal de said:


> *Thx dude,your setting helps a lot , images become more beautiful under your setting! fantastic! did you use any professional tools to get the right color? thats really amazing !*


No problems! Its very much ball park 'eyeball' settings but I think this kind of thing helps dial out a lot of the inherent red and magenta push that you get with this projector. Does prove that it is possible to remove this almost entirely. Although ideally I would like a professional calibration done at some point. 

In answer to you other question the colour temp is set at Warm 2.


----------



## Lord Avenger

JereyWolf said:


> I also use HCFR and i1Display Pro.
> 
> I always use the HCFR pattern generator.
> 
> For a very long time, I was getting very low errors on white balance I always felt my images were too red.
> Now, I'm fairly certain this is due to spectral resolution of that colorimeter. I have started to compensate my measurements for D65 color temp to have a RGB balance of R89%, G103% and B102%.
> Those numbers are based on Emidio's article here where he talks about measuring an already calibrated LSP9T (using gear that costs more than the projector) with the i1 display pro.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Samsung UST trilaser The Premiere LSP9T | Pag 2: Misure sui primari RGB e conclusioni
> 
> 
> Anteprima con misure sul sistema d'illuminamento 'tri-laser' del nuovo videoproiettore Samsung LSP9T 'The Premiere', probabilmente il primo prodotto a superare i confini dello spazio colore REC BT.2020 ad arrivare sul mercato italiano, con tecnologia DLP, ottica a tiro ultra-corto e compatibile...
> 
> 
> 
> www.avmagazine.it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My best results have come from selecting Wide Gamut RGB LED as the display type, and aiming for an RGB balance across all of the white patterns of R89%, G103%, B102%. I spent many sessions getting the white balance to read near perfect with delta error less than 1 across all patterns....but always felt that it was too red. After reading Emidio's measurement results and realizing that red needed to be compensated for, it completely changed my end result.
> 
> For meter placement, I use a tripod and place it about 4 inches from the screen, aiming upward at roughly 30°.


Thank you for heeding my post and sharing your experience. I will try the suggested RGB combo. I am still tinkering. Will get back to the group with my observations.

With a tripod, how did you manage to get as close as 4 inches that too with i1 looking up, without casting its own shadow on the screen?

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## JereyWolf

Lord Avenger said:


> Thank you for heeding my post and sharing your experience. I will try the suggested RGB combo. I am still tinkering. Will get back to the group with my observations.
> 
> With a tripod, how did you manage to get as close as 4 inches that too with i1 looking up, without casting its own shadow on the screen?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


It did cast a small shadow for me, but it was at the very top of the screen. Not near the field of view of the meter.


----------



## Lord Avenger

JereyWolf said:


> It did cast a small shadow for me, but it was at the very top of the screen. Not near the field of view of the meter.


Thanks JerryWolf. I will try with HCFR patterns next. I was always using the Spears and Munsil disk. A couple of questions below.

1. White Balance settings across SDR and HDR would be just the same across correct? In other words WB needs to be set globally only once for the projector and cannot be set differently for SDR and HDR. I understand color space and gamma can be calibrated and stored separately.

2. When you get the HCFR signals on the projector, are you just showing the entire PC or laptop screen on the projector or just the pattern? Can you please share your thoughts on the connections?

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## JereyWolf

Lord Avenger said:


> Thanks JerryWolf. I will try with HCFR patterns next. I was always using the Spears and Munsil disk. A couple of questions below.
> 
> 1. White Balance settings across SDR and HDR would be just the same across correct? In other words WB needs to be set globally only once for the projector and cannot be set differently for SDR and HDR. I understand color space and gamma can be calibrated and stored separately.
> 
> 2. When you get the HCFR signals on the projector, are you just showing the entire PC or laptop screen on the projector or just the pattern? Can you please share your thoughts on the connections?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


On the LSP9T you actually have 4 distinct presets for each Mode. For Movie mode you have Move, Movie-Game, HDR Movie, and HDR Movie-Game. 
Each of those is like starting with a fresh preset...and you'll need to adjust white balance for each one individually. 

I use a second monitor to control HCFR and use the projector to display full screen patterns. 
Under the "generator" option in HCFR you can select which monitor to send the patterns to.


----------



## djn2004

Would Calman Autocal work on the LSP9T? Seems like it has IP control and 2020 TVs are supported. Has anyone tried it?


----------



## Lord Avenger

JereyWolf said:


> On the LSP9T you actually have 4 distinct presets for each Mode. For Movie mode you have Move, Movie-Game, HDR Movie, and HDR Movie-Game.
> Each of those is like starting with a fresh preset...and you'll need to adjust white balance for each one individually.
> 
> I use a second monitor to control HCFR and use the projector to display full screen patterns.
> Under the "generator" option in HCFR you can select which monitor to send the patterns to.


Ok thanks. In other words for showing the patterns on the projector there needs to be an HDMI connection from the second monitor going to the Samsung. Correct?

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## JereyWolf

Lord Avenger said:


> Ok thanks. In other words for showing the patterns on the projector there needs to be an HDMI connection from the second monitor going to the Samsung. Correct?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


I have a PC connected and use one HDMI to the projector and another from the pc to a small monitor. 
If you use a laptop, yes an HDMI between the laptop and projector would work.


----------



## avsenthusiast

djn2004 said:


> Would Calman Autocal work on the LSP9T? Seems like it has IP control and 2020 TVs are supported. Has anyone tried it?


If Calman works on LSP9T it would be sweet. But Calman doesn't seem to offer a "demo" version so it's too expensive for me to buy their software just for finding out this answer. I tried emailing them before but received no response, hopefully someone else will have better luck than me.


----------



## djanderz

I decided to use the inputs for my firestick in the back of the projector instead of my avr, seems better pq and now Less of a green blob some how. 
Had to change hdmi settings to enhanced on the projector and lip sync a little in the settings 
Has anybody tried this and compared?


----------



## avsenthusiast

Does anyone use their LSP9T with Windows 10/11 and has successfully engaged HDR mode?

I hooked up mine directly to PC running Windows 11 for the first time, but after trying everything I know, like swapping cables, lowering refresh rate, making sure nVIDIA control panel doesn't have weird settings etc, but Windows just can't recognize the projector as "HDR-capable" 









Is there a trick to it?


----------



## avsenthusiast

djanderz said:


> I decided to use the inputs for my firestick in the back of the projector instead of my avr, seems better pq and now Less of a green blob some how.
> Had to change hdmi settings to enhanced on the projector and lip sync a little in the settings
> Has anybody tried this and compared?


I don't have a firestick but fire "cube" and fire "max" seem to be great products that can support both DV and HDR10+, which is awesome.


----------



## Transepoch

avsscientist said:


> Does anyone use their LSP9T with Windows 10/11 and has successfully engaged HDR mode?
> 
> I hooked up mine directly to PC running Windows 11 for the first time, but after trying everything I know, like swapping cables, lowering refresh rate, making sure nVIDIA control panel doesn't have weird settings etc, but Windows just can't recognize the projector as "HDR-capable"
> View attachment 3242941
> 
> 
> Is there a trick to it?


I went through something similar in Windows 10 before it would work. Did you make sure all of the pre-reqs in Windows were met (including all the plugins, codecs, etc.?) Still had to use the registry trick to make it accept it (though I think that was before MS made it a step or two easier for folks to enable.) Also, I found that Windows wouldn't engage HDR mode at less than p60 (who knows why,) so what was the framerate you tried before/after lowering it?


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> Does anyone use their LSP9T with Windows 10/11 and has successfully engaged HDR mode?
> 
> I hooked up mine directly to PC running Windows 11 for the first time, but after trying everything I know, like swapping cables, lowering refresh rate, making sure nVIDIA control panel doesn't have weird settings etc, but Windows just can't recognize the projector as "HDR-capable"
> View attachment 3242941
> 
> 
> Is there a trick to it?


I was always able to get it working when I wanted to on Windows 10. 
HDMI setting on the projector needs to be "enhanced format'...I think that's what it's called.


----------



## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> HDMI setting on the projector needs to be "enhanced format'...I think that's what it's called.


It's not "Enhanced format" which I believe is used on other devices, but thanks for prompting me to look there! 

I finally figured it out. To anyone who might be wanting to connect to their Windows 11 PC in the future using an NVIDIA card, here is the guide that I wish I had:

On Samsung projector, go to Settings > General > External Device Manager > input Signal Plus, you must check the HDMI number that is connected to your PC.

Then on the NVIDIA control panel, ensure your settings are as follows:









Then go back to Windows 11, toggle _Use HDR_ and _Play streaming HDR video _to "On"









Other requirements that your PC environment may need: Display requirements for HDR video in Windows


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> It's not "Enhanced format" which I believe is used on other devices, but thanks for prompting me to look there!
> 
> I finally figured it out. To anyone who might be wanting to connect to their Windows 11 PC in the future using an NVIDIA card, here is the guide that I wish I had:
> 
> On Samsung projector, go to Settings > General > External Device Manager > input Signal Plus, you must check the HDMI number that is connected to your PC.
> 
> Then on the NVIDIA control panel, ensure your settings are as follows:
> View attachment 3243119
> 
> 
> Then go back to Windows 11, toggle _Use HDR_ and _Play streaming HDR video _to "On"
> View attachment 3243122
> 
> 
> Other requirements that your PC environment may need: Display requirements for HDR video in Windows


That's exactly the setting that I was talking about, input signal plus. I haven't had my Samsung for about a month now and apparently I forget what all of the settings are called lol. Glad you got it working.


----------



## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> That's exactly the setting that I was talking about, input signal plus. I haven't had my Samsung for about a month now and apparently I forget what all of the settings are called lol. Glad you got it working.


If not for you, I wouldn’t have even started looking on the projector, I just thought there’s something wrong with my video card or Windows 11. So, thanks again for the big clue! 🙏 

it seems I have another issue though, projector kicks in its “PC” Mode with Windows 11 connected, so even when HDR is activated, it doesn’t permit “Movie” mode, which is the best setting for HCFR calibration.

I think more tinkering is required on the NVIDIA video card by setting it to output “Limited HDMI range” to projector, this should help Windows to treat it as a “TV” not “PC”.


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> If not for you, I wouldn’t have even started looking on the projector, I just thought there’s something wrong with my video card or Windows 11. So, thanks again for the big clue! 🙏
> 
> it seems I have another issue though, projector kicks in its “PC” Mode with Windows 11 connected, so even when HDR is activated, it doesn’t permit “Movie” mode, which is the best setting for HCFR calibration.
> 
> I think more tinkering is required on the NVIDIA video card by setting it to output “Limited HDMI range” to projector, this should help Windows to treat it as a “TV” not “PC”.


On the projector again, the auto low latency mode...or whatever it's called is what makes it automatically switch into game mode.


----------



## MVu

avsscientist said:


> it seems I have another issue though, projector kicks in its “PC” Mode with Windows 11 connected, so even when HDR is activated, it doesn’t permit “Movie” mode, which is the best setting for HCFR calibration.
> 
> I think more tinkering is required on the NVIDIA video card by setting it to output “Limited HDMI range” to projector, this should help Windows to treat it as a “TV” not “PC”.


On the Samsung, go to Sources (not Settings), edit the source, in this case your PC, and assign or categorize it as something else (Home Theater?), then you should be able to select Movie mode.


----------



## Lord Avenger

Friends, do any of you have any experience with Akia CLR3 screen? Why do HDR images look so dull and lack a punch? 

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## DukeFleed2K

Has anybody updated to the latest firmware ie 2021.10 ? And if so does anyone know what the change log includes?


----------



## djanderz

Lord Avenger said:


> Friends, do any of you have any experience with Akia CLR3 screen? Why do HDR images look so dull and lack a punch?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


It probably shouldn't be that dull, being a 0.8 gain screen if that's correct. Is it dull in dark viewing or daytime 
Maybe its upside down? Or too much light directly hitting the screen?


----------



## jbernardi

DukeFleed2K said:


> Has anybody updated to the latest firmware ie 2021.10 ? And if so does anyone know what the change log includes?


I just started watching The Kingsman which I recorded from HBO. It is the best image I have seen yet on this UST. It looks three dimensional.

I'm so stunned, I haven't yet watched anything else.

I am projecting onto a light grey wall. I may never get a screen.


----------



## jbernardi

jbernardi said:


> I just started watching The Kingsman which I recorded from HBO. It is the best image I have seen yet on this UST. It looks three dimensional.
> 
> I'm so stunned, I haven't yet watched anything else.
> 
> I am projecting onto a light grey wall. I may never get a screen.


 I haven't watched anything else but this movie *since updating the firmware*.


----------



## Lord Avenger

djanderz said:


> It probably shouldn't be that dull, being a 0.8 gain screen if that's correct. Is it dull in dark viewing or daytime
> Maybe its upside down? Or too much light directly hitting the screen?


Djanderz, appreciate your responding to my question again. I have a dedicated home theater, dark room. Minimized light relections.I have near perfect alignment with only 2 or 3 points touched via keystone. My real problem is blurred and washed out pic. My eyes have to do about of work to gather detail. My experience has been bad mainly with HDR. I invested in Vertex2 hoping LLDV can solve the issue, custom EDID 10. But alas. 

After a watching session, my eyes struggle with real lights outside the room. I am therefore looking at every piece in use including the screen now. Hence the question.

Not sure if this helps any of you help me, the black point I set for HDR via the S&M disc is not true for the signal from Vertex2.

The pattern to set focus is not really the best to set it accurately. How do we achieve the sharpest image? And the black point.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## djanderz

Lord Avenger said:


> Djanderz, appreciate your responding to my question again. I have a dedicated home theater, dark room. Minimized light relections.I have near perfect alignment with only 2 or 3 points touched via keystone. My real problem is blurred and washed out pic. My eyes have to do about of work to gather detail. My experience has been bad mainly with HDR. I invested in Vertex2 hoping LLDV can solve the issue, custom EDID 10. But alas.
> 
> After a watching session, my eyes struggle with real lights outside the room. I am therefore looking at every piece in use including the screen now. Hence the question.
> 
> Not sure if this helps any of you help me, the black point I set for HDR via the S&M disc is not true for the signal from Vertex2.
> 
> The pattern to set focus is not really the best to set it accurately. How do we achieve the sharpest image? And the black point.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


 Not sure about the the washed out problem 
What settings have been adjusted in the projector, and is it the same when not using the vertex 
Keystone can distort the image Sharpness and there is a focus setting in the menu if that has been overlooked


----------



## avsenthusiast

DukeFleed2K said:


> Has anybody updated to the latest firmware ie 2021.10 ? And if so does anyone know what the change log includes?


My current version of firmware is "2012" so apparently a new firmware "2022.1" has just been released. 

It's ironic I just finished calibrating my LSP9T to perfection, so I seriously hope this new firmware won't screw up everything again.


----------



## JereyWolf

avsscientist said:


> My current version of firmware is "2012" so apparently a new firmware "2022.1" has just been released.
> 
> It's ironic I just finished calibrating my LSP9T to perfection, so I seriously hope this new firmware won't screw up everything again.


Maybe the frimware update will fix the white balance shift lol.


----------



## avsenthusiast

JereyWolf said:


> Maybe the frimware update will fix the white balance shift lol.


Unfortunately it’s wishful thinking on my part, new firmware did not change the white balance shift defect.

I guess at this point we can safely conclude that it’s a defect at hardware level given how Samsung attempted to fix yours and my unit by replacing multiple components.


----------



## Lord Avenger

avsscientist said:


> Unfortunately it’s wishful thinking on my part, new firmware did not change the white balance shift defect.
> 
> I guess at this point we can safely conclude that it’s a defect at hardware level given how Samsung attempted to fix yours and my unit by replacing multiple components.


Hi Avsscientist

What if any did get implemented via the firmware upgrade? There was no Readme info that I could find.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## avsenthusiast

Lord Avenger said:


> What if any did get implemented via the firmware upgrade? There was no Readme info that I could find.


I still have a defective unit, and the latest firmware that I just updated it did not fix it.


----------



## Lord Avenger

avsscientist said:


> I still have a defective unit, and the latest firmware that I just updated it did not fix it.


Thanks Avsscientist. However, did you notice anything that they have implemented new?

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## rigidz

avsscientist said:


> My current version of firmware is "2012" so apparently a new firmware "2022.1" has just been released.
> 
> It's ironic I just finished calibrating my LSP9T to perfection, so I seriously hope this new firmware won't screw up everything again.


Are you using ALR screen? if yes, do you mind sharing your settings with the group please.
Thank you.


----------



## avsenthusiast

rigidz said:


> Are you using ALR screen? if yes, do you mind sharing your settings with the group please.
> Thank you.


Nope, I am in the DaveHarper "spandex-like" screen camp, so basically using a normal 1.0 gain non-UST, non-ALR, non-CLR type screen in a bat cave.

Here is what I get from HCFR, after compensating for the inaccuracy of the i1DP colorimeter

*HDR *
RG: -8
GG: 0
BG: 4
RO: 5
GO: 0
BO: 8

*SDR*
RG: -10
GG: 0
BG: 0
RO: -1
GO: 0
BO: 7

I no longer see weird red push or weird green cast/tint with these settings. But after the firmware update, I think all the colors are screwed up again 😂

Keep in mind though, these settings should ony work on the following "high-key" contrast and gamma combinations, which may be be to your taste, which are:

Contrast: High
Gamma: +3
Shadows: -3

Also, my LSP9T is a defective unit. Who knows if a "normal" LSP9T needs these adjustments to compensate for whatever is wrong on my unit.

In any case, when I have time again, I plan on creating additonal color setting sets for other contrast and gamma combinations, such as Contrast Low and Shadows High for a high black point look when content calls for it.


----------



## avsenthusiast

Lord Avenger said:


> Thanks Avsscientist. However, did you notice anything that they have implemented new?


Sadly, I only notice it's possible to use Apple Music app on the projector now. But then, given how infrequent I used apps on the projector, it may have been there to begin with. 

I haven't noticed any other differences yet.


----------



## Kid Ulysses

Does anyone know about the gamma settings and which one is technically correct for SDR? I believe its supposed to be BT1886 which I think equated to a gamma of 2.4. 

Toggling between this and 2.2, the BT1886 seems correct to me. In fact as much as I enjoy shadow detail, if anything it feels like the BT1886 gamma could even be reduced by one point to help give a little more depth. But I am guessing that would then shift away from the proper gamma which is presumably the default '0' on BT1886.

I was watching Return Of The Jedi and the scene where Luke Skywalker confronts the Emperor was, instead of being gloomy and moody and atmospheric, looking like a well lit studio shot with almost _too_ much shadow detail which made me wonder if my gamma settings were correct.

Anyone with any technical knowledge on this please share!


----------



## Kid Ulysses

Does the new 2022.1 update fix the CMS issue where they default and ignore the settings made randomly?


----------



## WhiteRabbit2004

Anyone know what all the new 2022.1 firmware changes? It's a massive 1.18GB size file.


----------



## Kid Ulysses

WhiteRabbit2004 said:


> Anyone know what all the new 2022.1 firmware changes? It's a massive 1.18GB size file.


Just realised its actually 2201 I'm on? Is that an older update? Or maybe a UK specific one?


----------



## avsenthusiast

Kid Ulysses said:


> Just realised its actually 2201 I'm on? Is that an older update? Or maybe a UK specific one?


According to the info.txt file, it was released on Jan 17, also by Samsung US.


----------



## WhiteRabbit2004

Not sure, I was looking at this page: Home | Official Samsung Support US


----------



## avsenthusiast

WhiteRabbit2004 said:


> Not sure, I was looking at this page: Home | Official Samsung Support US


It's a huge file without release notes


----------



## WhiteRabbit2004

I installed the update manually via USB last night. I'm not sure exactly what's changed, but my girlfriend thinks the colors changed somewhat (for the better). Also the Discovery+ app works now, where before it had severe lag when navigating the menu making barely useable. Other than that I haven't noticed anything else that is changed. I reached out to Samsung support to see if there's a changelog somewhere, but of course as expected I got nothing.


----------



## avsenthusiast

WhiteRabbit2004 said:


> I installed the update manually via USB last night. I'm not sure exactly what's changed, but my girlfriend thinks the colors changed somewhat (for the better). Also the Discovery+ app works now, where before it had severe lag when navigating the menu making barely useable.


I concur with the color change. My previous calibration is off now after the firmware upgrade. 

Using built-in apps is still slow, but more tolerable than before.


----------



## iCrap

I picked up this projector a few months ago during the black friday sale - haven't really used it yet as we are still building the room. (Just turned it on to play with it)

I've realized that due to the room ceiling height I will have no room for a center channel - So I have to put it behind the screen and I assume get an acoustically transparent screen.

What screens are you guys using for this projector? And what are your solutions to center channels?


----------



## Lord Avenger

iCrap said:


> I picked up this projector a few months ago during the black friday sale - haven't really used it yet as we are still building the room. (Just turned it on to play with it)
> 
> I've realized that due to the room ceiling height I will have no room for a center channel - So I have to put it behind the screen and I assume get an acoustically transparent screen.
> 
> What screens are you guys using for this projector? And what are your solutions to center channels?


I have placed my center channel just above the screen with a pair of L brackets (top down) holding a horizontal plank. Has worked great for me. I have placed the projector on a sturdy height adjustable desk riser.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Lord Avenger

Lord Avenger said:


> I have placed my center channel just above the screen with a pair of L brackets (top down) holding a horizontal plank. Has worked great for me. I have placed the projector on a sturdy height adjustable desk riser.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


I use an Akia CLR3.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Lord Avenger

If anyone has been able to achieve a very sharp focus with Lsp9t, can you send me a picture of one with the in-built focus pattern?

What big any are any tips you make discovered or know? After a session of viewing my eyes get blurry on anything else outside my dark room theater. I keep thinking it's a problem with the base focus. I have done the best I can but tye corner angles and squares are not very sharp.

Any comments...highly appreciated. 

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## WhiteRabbit2004

I sit about 9 feet away from my screen and everything looks fantastic. I'm using a Severtson 120" UST ALR Floor Rising Screen with the Cinema Grey film. I originally had bought the LSP7T back in October, but quickly returned it and upgraded to the LSP9T. As far as focus, it doesn't get tack sharp when focusing on the corner squares. I just toggle it until it's the least blurry it can get it. I found standing right up next to the screen when doing this helps as you can see the tiny differences in the focus better. When you sit back down your 4K content should look great. Another suggestion if you have Netflix, I've been using a show called Flavorful Origins to determine my picture quality. The footage captured in this show looks absolutely stunning on the LSP9T once it's dialed in.


----------



## sollyemmy

I need some advice - I have had the projector and screen (Akia 123" setup for a while now) and after the got the keystone corrections in - i got this halo around the screen which usually doesnt bug me much but lately i have been meaning to get rid of this and align it closer to edges properly without using too much keystone correction. 

Any advice of how you have achieved it to align closely would be appreciated.

Also i wanted to ask if anyone has any minor adjustments to make to the height of the projector/ tilt it forward using screw feet without messing up or lifting the projector - do you have any plate underneath with independent screws or any solution without using the projector feet itself?


----------



## am2model3

cardboard works for me


----------



## rigidz

Any anyone noticed better color accuracies after this latest update? Earlier, if I blinked my eye, I used to see some sort of rainbow effect. Has anybody noticed or still seeing rainbow effects?
Is it me, or is my mind filled with owner bias .


----------



## avsenthusiast

rigidz said:


> Any anyone noticed better color accuracies after this latest update? Earlier, if I blinked my eye, I used to see some sort of rainbow effect. Has anybody noticed or still seeing rainbow effects?
> Is it me, or is my mind filled with owner bias .


Yes, much "better" colors at default, more tolerable if someone doesn't have the time or tool to calibrate.

But, nothing beats running HCFR to nail perfect colors at all brightness levels.


----------



## IntriguedByTech

I apologize for the naive question but my lsp9t doesn't seem to find any updates. I even downloaded the update 2022.1 and loaded it to a hard drive but my PJ is not finding any updates. it is still on 2012.  . Any pointers on how to correct it? Do I have to find the 2022 firmware first and then apply and then try to patch to 2022.1? If yes, does any of you have any links to the same?


----------



## avsenthusiast

IntriguedByTech said:


> I apologize for the naive question but my lsp9t doesn't seem to find any updates. I even downloaded the update 2022.1 and loaded it to a hard drive but my PJ is not finding any updates. it is still on 2012.  . Any pointers on how to correct it? Do I have to find the 2022 firmware first and then apply and then try to patch to 2022.1? If yes, does any of you have any links to the same?


Mine never found any new firmware updates. Just go to Samsung USA site to download the latest version on USB and install it. Good luck!


----------



## ddude003

What the heck is up with Samsung anyway??? No information about what any of the firmware contains, bug fixes, adjustments and enhancements... Come on Samsung you can do better... And why would I chance bricking my PJ or TV and blindly installing firmware???


----------



## WhiteRabbit2004

IntriguedByTech said:


> I apologize for the naive question but my lsp9t doesn't seem to find any updates. I even downloaded the update 2022.1 and loaded it to a hard drive but my PJ is not finding any updates. it is still on 2012.  . Any pointers on how to correct it? Do I have to find the 2022 firmware first and then apply and then try to patch to 2022.1? If yes, does any of you have any links to the same?


Make sure the thumb drive you're using is formatted to FAT32 and install the latest firmware file listed on the Samsung USA site.


----------



## IntriguedByTech

WhiteRabbit2004 said:


> Make sure the thumb drive you're using is formatted to FAT32 and install the latest firmware file listed on the Samsung USA site.


The exFAT file system did the trick. I was trying to use an APFS file system(from mac). Thanks mate!

I am not sure if others have noticed this but after the Update my apple tv and lsp9t combo has started showing dolby vision logo on titles in Netflix which was not the case earlier. Does this mean LSP9T started supporting Dolby Vision silently?


----------



## avsenthusiast

IntriguedByTech said:


> I am not sure if others have noticed this but after the Update my apple tv and lsp9t combo has started showing dolby vision logo on titles in Netflix which was not the case earlier. Does this mean LSP9T started supporting Dolby Vision silently?


Just to confirm, you don't have an HDfury device like Vertex, Arcana etc between ATV and LSP9T right?

Even with an Arcana in between LSP9T and my Shield Pro to enable DoVi on Netflix app, my AVR still recognizes that LSP9T is only capable of HDR10+

But tonight I will remove the AVR and Arcana from the chain and try a direct connection and see what happens!


----------



## IntriguedByTech

I don’t have anything between my lsp9t and ATV. ATV is directly connected to lsp9t. I am not sure if it is a glitch but i opened The Witcher in Netflix and it is showing Dolby Vision.

i am not sure if it is relevant but my ATV is in 4k HDR @60 and match frame rate is all turned off


----------



## avsenthusiast

IntriguedByTech said:


> I don’t have anything between my lsp9t and ATV. ATV is directly connected to lsp9t. I am not sure if it is a glitch but i opened The Witcher in Netflix and it is showing Dolby Vision.
> 
> i am not sure if it is relevant but my ATV is in 4k HDR @60 and match frame rate is all turned off


I don't see anything in tvOS changelog that is about Dolby Vision so maybe it is attributed to LSP9T latest firmware About Apple TV 4K and Apple TV HD software updates

@IntriguedByTech have you tried other DoVi titles aside from Witcher?


----------



## bennutt

IntriguedByTech said:


> The exFAT file system did the trick. I was trying to use an APFS file system(from mac). Thanks mate!
> 
> I am not sure if others have noticed this but after the Update my apple tv and lsp9t combo has started showing dolby vision logo on titles in Netflix which was not the case earlier. Does this mean LSP9T started supporting Dolby Vision silently?


Safe bet that Samsung did NOT start supporting Dolby Vision. They are “all in” on HDR10+ for every TV or projector.
You can trick them with an HD Fury or similar device, but there won’t be native support,


----------



## justbenice

avsscientist said:


> Mine never found any new firmware updates. Just go to Samsung USA site to download the latest version on USB and install it. Good luck!


Hi, how can you update firmware with usb? Do you have to change file name or unzip or somethings? I'v never had a success in manual update samsung firmware from usb.


----------



## IntriguedByTech

justbenice said:


> Hi, how can you update firmware with usb? Do you have to change file name or unzip or somethings? I'v never had a success in manual update samsung firmware from usb.


1. Download the firmware
2. Unzip it
3. Format a USB to FAT/exFAT file system
4. Put the unzipped folder in the USB. Make sure you place the unzipped folder as is and not inside another folder.
5. Plug it in lsp9t
6 go to settings/support/software update. 
7. clickon update now. It should ask you do you want to update from USB and voila


----------



## IntriguedByTech

bennutt said:


> Safe bet that Samsung did NOT start supporting Dolby Vision. They are “all in” on HDR10+ for every TV or projector.
> You can trick them with an HD Fury or similar device, but there won’t be native support,


I don’t have any hdFury device yet. Since the firmware update shows on Netflix ATV has started showing dolby vision logo. So I just wondered if Samsung silently started supporting DV. It may very well just be a glitch


----------



## IntriguedByTech

avsscientist said:


> I don't see anything in tvOS changelog that is about Dolby Vision so maybe it is attributed to LSP9T latest firmware About Apple TV 4K and Apple TV HD software updates
> 
> 
> @IntriguedByTech have you tried other DoVi titles aside from Witcher?


Samsung supporting DV silently seems unlikely but it is my suspicion too.

Yes i saw the DV logo on mutiple other titles on Netflix. It was not showing up in HBO Max though.


----------



## justbenice

IntriguedByTech said:


> 1. Download the firmware
> 2. Unzip it
> 3. Format a USB to FAT/exFAT file system
> 4. Put the unzipped folder in the USB. Make sure you place the unzipped folder as is and not inside another folder.
> 5. Plug it in lsp9t
> 6 go to settings/support/software update.
> 7. clickon update now. It should ask you do you want to update from USB and voila


Thank you!!! This is the first time in my life i can update a Samsung TV with usb !!


----------



## IntriguedByTech

justbenice said:


> Thank you!!! This is the first time in my life i can update a Samsung TV with usb !!


No problem at all. I also figured it out with the help of @WhiteRabbit2004.


----------



## hanks

Looks like stock has run out at Amazon? New Samsung ust coming soon?


----------



## WhiteRabbit2004

hanks said:


> Looks like stock has run out at Amazon? New Samsung ust coming soon?


I work for a very large electronics distributor and haven't heard anything about a new Samsung short throw coming this year.


----------



## salian

Very happy with my projector but unfortunately for all of us Premiere owners last update did not fix what it was intended to and they have concluded that it can not be fixed by a software, therefore a hardware update was planned, however instead of that they have decided to add couple extra features (120hz) and release a Premiere 2 planned for August 2022.


----------



## Lord Avenger

Has anyone have a recommendation for a custom EDID for Lsp9t to use with HDFury Vertex2? I have tried both EDID 5 and 10 that comes off the box with .62 firmware. I am checking to see if the community has experimented with other custom values to recommend for better results.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

I get better results using Automix. Then experiment with 10,000 nit HDR and LLDV max luminance settings.


----------



## WhiteRabbit2004

salian said:


> Very happy with my projector but unfortunately for all of us Premiere owners last update did not fix what it was intended to and they have concluded that it can not be fixed by a software, therefore a hardware update was planned, however instead of that they have decided to add couple extra features (120hz) and release a Premiere 2 planned for August 2022.



Just curious, what hardware issue are you referring to?


----------



## Lord Avenger

Dave Harper said:


> I get better results using Automix. Then experiment with 10,000 nit HDR and LLDV max luminance settings.


Thanks Dave. I will check this out. 

I use filmmaker mode, warm2, bt2020, contrast 39 on the projector. Keep those?

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Mikenificent1

salian said:


> Very happy with my projector but unfortunately for all of us Premiere owners last update did not fix what it was intended to and they have concluded that it can not be fixed by a software, therefore a hardware update was planned, however instead of that they have decided to add couple extra features (120hz) and release a Premiere 2 planned for August 2022.


Premier 2 sounds interesting. Source? I hope it addresses all the issues such as laser speckle, etc. as well as overall better performance.


----------



## Dave Harper

Lord Avenger said:


> Thanks Dave. I will check this out.
> 
> I use filmmaker mode, warm2, bt2020, contrast 39 on the projector. Keep those?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


I like to use Game Mode so it disables all the extraneous projector processing.


----------



## hanks

Mikenificent1 said:


> Premier 2 sounds interesting. Source? I hope it addresses all the issues such as laser speckle, etc. as well as overall better performance.


Looks like it was a brand new account and only has one post. One part of me really wants to believe this, and another thinks it's just a troll.


----------



## SupurClay

Does anyone know if the Samsung Lsp9t will support multi view 2.0?


----------



## coug7669

This was left out of the UST forum. could a moderator move this over to the UST arena.


----------



## bennutt

coug7669 said:


> This was left out of the UST forum. could a moderator move this over to the UST arena.


I started it up, but don't have any control to "move" it. Higher paygrade required.


----------



## redcrow240

Well fellas it has been a journey. Samsung ended up replacing the “light engine” on my doa unit and finally was able to obtain my projector screen after months of waiting on a grandview that just couldn’t get to me. Went with the spectra 110 from projector central w 0.5 gain instead. Great screen and I like the velvet border. Has a tiny “smudge” on top right but not sure how I could clean it. Don’t wanna mess anything up. Any thoughts?

anyways, I’m playing with all the projector settings And noticed that when using appletv if you set the projector to “auto”color space and the appletv to match range, it thinks it’s capable of Dolby vision? Netflix changes the logo instead of the usual “hdr” one and shows the vision one. I know the projector doesn’t do DD natively but what is it doing instead?


----------



## redcrow240

Here are some pics under different lighting many under worst possible conditions lol. Next project will be electric solar shades to help. Btw ps5 input lag is a non factor playing vanguard in my opinion. Even without game mode enabled it’s super responsive. No need to worry about that unless you’re in a league maybe.


----------



## redcrow240

Two more


----------



## redcrow240

Notice the Dolby vision logo


----------



## Michael2022

JereyWolf said:


> This white spot showed up for me this morning. It's there at start up and disappears after a few minutes. I saw it early this morning, mid day and now about 9 hours later. Anyone experienced this with a projector before?
> 
> View attachment 3125632
> View attachment 3125630


Hi @JereyWolf my lsp9t developed this same issue two weeks ago, was it ever solved for you? The white sport is in the upper right corner and does not disappear, tried Samsung cs, factory reset etc. I thought before i sent it in i‘d ask here. Thanks.


----------



## Kid Ulysses

Loving this projector more and more it seems as time goes on. One of my initial concerns a few months back which was colour accuracy has all but disappeared as I’ve tweaked the white balance more and more resulting in a really spot on image with excellent skin tones and great accuracy all round. I’ve also ended up dropping shadow detail by one point in order to get a little more sense of contrast. Really fine pic now. I’m in movie mode, warm2 and my 2 point bias is red 0, green 20, blue 37, offset all 0. 

My only gripe really is that i have to drop contrast to around 20 in order to get good colour accuracy. If it goes higher, highlights are ridiculously skewed and inaccurate which mostly manifests itself mainly as red/pinky casts on the highlights of peoples skin. It only occasionally appears but - once you’ve seen it etc. it get steadily worse as you ramp up contrast from 20 to 40. Ideally I’d like contrast at around 35 but I can’t live with the highlights being blown out or out of gamut or whatever at anything more than 22 so I feel I’m having to accept a slight subdued image overall.

To be clear - it’s not just a colour cast as such - its almost like a hard clipping in the highlights. Really obvious and painful to see.

Anyone else seen this? I’m surprised this isn’t being noticed by more people?

If anyone has noticed this and has a workaround for the contrast causing colour anomalies in the highlights at even middling levels it would be greatly received.


----------



## Lord Avenger

Kid Ulysses said:


> Loving this projector more and more it seems as time goes on. One of my initial concerns a few months back which was colour accuracy has all but disappeared as I’ve tweaked the white point more and more resulting in a really spot on image with excellent skin tones and great accuracy all round. I’ve also ended up dropping shadow detail by one point in order to get a little more send of contrast. Really fine pic now. I’m in movie mode, warm2 and my 2 point is green 20, blue 37.
> 
> My only gripe really is that i have to drop contrast to around 20 in order to get good colour accuracy. If it goes higher, highlights are ridiculously skewed and inaccurate which mostly manifests itself mainly as red/pinky casts on the highlights of peoples skin. It only occasionally appears but - once you’ve seen it etc. it get steadily worse as you ramp up contrast from 20 to 40. Ideally I’d like contrast at around 35 but I can’t live with the highlights being blown out or out of gamut or whatever at anything more than 22 so I feel I’m having to accept a slight subdued image overall.
> 
> To be clear - it’s not just a colour cast as such - its almost like a hard clipping in the highlights. Really obvious and painful to see.
> 
> Anyone else seen this? I’m surprised this isn’t being noticed by more people?
> 
> If anyone has noticed this and has a workaround for the contrast causing colour anomalies in the highlights at even middling levels it would be greatly received.


This is for SDR or HDR?

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Kid Ulysses

Lord Avenger said:


> This is for SDR or HDR?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


SDR.


----------



## Kid Ulysses

Passengers about 44 minutes in. This is what seems to happen if I have contrast at any level above 20. The higher it is the worse the pink in the highlights


----------



## newtophoto

why is everyone talking about 2022 as the latest one? according to this link, 2201 is the latest released in feb. am i confused?









130” The Premiere LSP9T 4K Smart Triple Laser Projector | Samsung Support IE


130” The Premiere LSP9T 4K Smart Triple Laser Projector. Solutions & Tips, Download Manual, Contact Us. Samsung Support IE




www.samsung.com





nm, i guess i was looking at the ireland website. so under my lsp9t settings, my version says 2201, and i tried updating to 2022 via usb, but says i'm on the latest version. anyone able to update from 2201->2022? the numbering system makes it seem like 2022 is an older firmware though?


----------



## heidelbaer

Hi all, my LSP9T uses the USB dongle to activate the Vividstorm S PRO Electric Tension Floor Screen UST ALR. Every night the LSP9T at roughly the same time starts blinking so the Vividstorm goes up and shortly after down again. Any way to keep the LSP9T from waking me up? Thanks


----------



## humax

heidelbaer said:


> Hi all, my LSP9T uses the USB dongle to activate the Vividstorm S PRO Electric Tension Floor Screen UST ALR. Every night the LSP9T at roughly the same time starts blinking so the Vividstorm goes up and shortly after down again. Any way to keep the LSP9T from waking me up? Thanks




Perhaps, manually unplugging the usb dongle before going to bed? Your description makes it sound like the worst alarm clock ever!


----------



## luvdunhill

I am trying to duplicate an IKEA hack and no matter what I do, I can’t center the image in the center of the floating cabinet. My brain hurts - what dimension isn’t squared up?


----------



## dan3503

Sometimes while the projector is off, it makes a high pitch sound as it was turning on, how do I fix that? thanks


----------



## projproj

I am wondering if there is a video comparison of the LSP7T and LSP9T side by side? I would like to know if there is enough difference to warrant an upgrade from LSP7T to LSP9T. 
On another note I have had my LSP7T for 8 months now and it developed hot pixels, three of them and I got the who engine replaced under warranty. Anyone else has had a similar issues with theirs?


----------



## Transepoch

luvdunhill said:


> I am trying to duplicate an IKEA hack and no matter what I do, I can’t center the image in the center of the floating cabinet. My brain hurts - what dimension isn’t squared up?


It's hard to get a frame of reference, but are the sidewalls perpendicular to the projection surface, with the cabinet parallel?


----------



## ApeEx

projproj said:


> I am wondering if there is a video comparison of the LSP7T and LSP9T side by side? I would like to know if there is enough difference to warrant an upgrade from LSP7T to LSP9T.
> On another note I have had my LSP7T for 8 months now and it developed hot pixels, three of them and I got the who engine replaced under warranty. Anyone else has had a similar issues with theirs?


It would be very difficult to see the differences in image quality and HDR performance over a video. 
The key advantages are a better throw ratio, so the 9T can be much closer to the wall and it's designed to project up to 130" vs 120" on the 7T. 
The 9T has a triple laser, with HDR 10+ support, and 600 more lumens for better brightness and HDR. 
It also has better built in speakers, but that's not a major consideration. 

Be aware, the triple laser set up will be more prone to laser speckling than the single laser.
See if a local Best Buy has one on display to see for yourself. 

Personally I love my 9T and have had no issues with it.
I saw Spiderman NWH at a IMAX, and the colors were not as nearly as vibrant as on my 9T.


----------



## ddude003

luvdunhill said:


> I am trying to duplicate an IKEA hack and no matter what I do, I can’t center the image in the center of the floating cabinet. My brain hurts - what dimension isn’t squared up?
> 
> View attachment 3261589
> 
> View attachment 3261588


The projector does not look level to me... I would use a level, like with a bubble, to make sure the stand and the slide out platform are level, both length and width... Then make minor adjustments to the feet of the PJ... Good luck...


----------



## Lord Avenger

Hi all

Has anyone configured Lsp9t for a completely dark room viewing? I am curious to understand what your contrast, gamma and shadow detail settings are. Additionally, if you have 2 point WB values, it's a bonus.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## azar777

guys tell me what would be better Chinese new model fengmi t1 or LSP9T?


----------



## ACE844

Lord Avenger said:


> Hi all
> 
> Has anyone configured Lsp9t for a completely dark room viewing? I am curious to understand what your contrast, gamma and shadow detail settings are. Additionally, if you have 2 point WB values, it's a bonus.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


You should check out @Jue Liang's posts in this thread at approx page 35 onwards. He gives one of the most in-depth objective and complete reviews I've ever read on this projector. He also shares his settings as well.


----------



## Lord Avenger

What are the factory default contrast settings for Lsp9t, SDR and HDR?

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Fox2

Hi all,
Need your help/suggestions on this.
Since last few weeks I've been noticing white streaks across the screen, especially with scenes having white overlay on black.
I tried factory reset, cleaning the lens with wipe but that didn't fix it.
Any suggestions on how I can get this issue resolved?

Attached some pictures of the issue


----------



## jeffp021

Any experiencing no audio output from projector over EARC since 2022 update? 
Have latest 4k ATV connected via HDMI into a port on projector. then HDMI cable from EARC port on projector to Sonos ARC speaker. Have to unplug the cable from EARC port on projector and then plug it back in and audio works perfectly.


----------



## Danilo Correa

lakersfreak said:


> so no one else? Maybe something is wrong with mine....


I see that on my u it as well, it goes away after a while. I have my unit connected to Google assistant, so maybe its just connecting with it periodically, it seems benign though 🤔


lakersfreak said:


> so no one else? Maybe something is wrong with mine....


----------



## ITHWD

I just got this projector for over 90% off of the MSRP and I'm eager to get it setup asap. How would it do with a normal white screen? I know CLR is preferred but Best Buy has the insignia 120" on sale today and I'm thinking about going and picking one up


----------



## bennutt

ITHWD said:


> I just got this projector for over 90% off of the MSRP and I'm eager to get it setup asap. How would it do with a normal white screen? I know CLR is preferred but Best Buy has the insignia 120" on sale today and I'm thinking about going and picking one up


90%??
From the back of which white van?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## redcrow240

Fox2 said:


> Hi all,
> Need your help/suggestions on this.
> Since last few weeks I've been noticing white streaks across the screen, especially with scenes having white overlay on black.
> I tried factory reset, cleaning the lens with wipe but that didn't fix it.
> Any suggestions on how I can get this issue resolved?
> 
> Attached some pictures of the issue
> View attachment 3265783
> 
> View attachment 3265782


Clean it again with a microfiber cloth. Looks like streaks that Form when you initially wipe the lens. Happened to me and saw streaks similar in videos and light would shine all over the ceiling. Clean it for a few minutes and inspect the glass carefully.


----------



## ITHWD

bennutt said:


> 90%??
> From the back of which white van?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It was being sold for parts and I took a chance on it for $630. Turns out it wasn't actually broken.


----------



## Fox2

Thanks redcrow240, gonna try it right away


----------



## Fox2

redcrow240 said:


> Clean it again with a microfiber cloth. Looks like streaks that Form when you initially wipe the lens. Happened to me and saw streaks similar in videos and light would shine all over the ceiling. Clean it for a few minutes and inspect the glass carefully.


Thanks, this worked!


----------



## TheWizWiz

dan3503 said:


> Sometimes while the projector is off, it makes a high pitch sound as it was turning on, how do I fix that? thanks


 Mine just started doing that since this last update to 2201. It's annoying and I don't think whatever is powering on and off constantly is good for it in the long run.


----------



## TheWizWiz

Do any of you know if there are any settings anywhere to bring the actual brightness of the whole picture down? Sometimes I just want to bring down the brightness a bit. What I mean is not having to mess with the Color Tone, Picture Mode, or Expert Settings under Picture Menu but just an actual overall brightness. The only thing I discovered by accident is on my Samsung phone under smart devices I can set it to Ambient Light Detection which does help a bit.


----------



## redcrow240

TheWizWiz said:


> Do any of you know if there are any settings anywhere to bring the actual brightness of the whole picture down? Sometimes I just want to bring down the brightness a bit. What I mean is not having to mess with the Color Tone, Picture Mode, or Expert Settings under Picture Menu but just an actual overall brightness. The only thing I discovered by accident is on my Samsung phone under smart devices I can set it to Ambient Light Detection which does help a bit.


Maybe eco mode?


----------



## lakersfreak

I press the remote to turn it on, the red light on the front goes off (which indicates it'd supposed to be on) but then it doesn't turn on. Power cycle fixes it temporarily. Anyone know what's going on?


----------



## salian

TheWizWiz said:


> Do any of you know if there are any settings anywhere to bring the actual brightness of the whole picture down? Sometimes I just want to bring down the brightness a bit. What I mean is not having to mess with the Color Tone, Picture Mode, or Expert Settings under Picture Menu but just an actual overall brightness. The only thing I discovered by accident is on my Samsung phone under smart devices I can set it to Ambient Light Detection which does help a bit.


Yeah i had the same issue when i was throwing it on my wall. I guess its too powerful 
Good quality anti reflective grey screen fixed it.
The quality of the picture is at least 10x now.

Good screen is crucial to fully enjoy and experience the potential of this projector.


----------



## salian

lakersfreak said:


> I press the remote to turn it on, the red light on the front goes off (which indicates it'd supposed to be on) but then it doesn't turn on. Power cycle fixes it temporarily. Anyone know what's going on?


Once the red light turns off, the fan should go on and the software will start loading, if it doesnt, then it must be something with your software, try factory reset or update.


----------



## lakersfreak

salian said:


> Once the red light turns off, the fan should go on and the software will start loading, if it doesnt, then it must be something with your software, try factory reset or update.


It is updated, so I guess if it continues I'll do a factory reset and go from there.


----------



## Dave Harper

ITHWD said:


> It was being sold for parts and I took a chance on it for $630. Turns out it wasn't actually broken.


While not brok-en, it was probably stol-en!


----------



## am2model3

filmmaker mode is great for movies! used it the other night. crimes of grindelwald 4k uhd dolby atmos.


----------



## lakersfreak

So I did a factory reset and it still doesn't work. Every other day I have to unplug and plug back in so I can turn it on. Has anyone else had this issue?


----------



## JereyWolf

Michael2022 said:


> Hi @JereyWolf my lsp9t developed this same issue two weeks ago, was it ever solved for you? The white sport is in the upper right corner and does not disappear, tried Samsung cs, factory reset etc. I thought before i sent it in i‘d ask here. Thanks.


Yeah....it just eventually went away on mine.


----------



## fliebe

Hi , little sad ... after just 5 month of low use ( maybe 6 to 10 hours / week ) appeared a brigth pixel un middle of the screen .. after 1 month in service Samsungs finally approved the RMA. I hape i just had a bad luck ... I will try again the same model.... 
Fernando


----------



## Artcore

avsscientist said:


> Unfortunately it’s wishful thinking on my part, new firmware did not change the white balance shift defect.
> 
> I guess at this point we can safely conclude that it’s a defect at hardware level given how Samsung attempted to fix yours and my unit by replacing multiple components.


Trying to get up-to-date here, sorry if it's a stupid question. I thought that every unit experienced the white balance shift. Is it only on some units? And did Samsung not recognize the defect since the replacement of units did not fix the problem? I'm thinking about making an RMA with Samsung, but not sure if it will be just a waste of time and energy.


----------



## JereyWolf

Artcore said:


> Trying to get up-to-date here, sorry if it's a stupid question. I thought that every unit experienced the white balance shift. Is it only on some units? And did Samsung not recognize the defect since the replacement of units did not fix the problem? I'm thinking about making an RMA with Samsung, but not sure if it will be just a waste of time and energy.


It's not present on all units. I bought a second one to test this myself. Samsung never recognized the defect and after 3 trips back and forth to the service center and 3 months they finally gave me a full refund. I detailed the whole experience in many posts on this thread.


----------



## emmanuellsam

Does everyone have judder ? I think am gonna return mine cause I can’t seem to get rid of it.


----------



## Qbasix

Hello,
I've got an LSP7T but hope its ok to post here as there is no dedicated LSP7T thread/community it seems.

I believe the updates would be very similar between the two models.
Does anyone know what the latest 2201 updates contained?

It fixed my Dolby Atmos sound in Disney+ (now plays Atmos).

However, I'm still getting some stuttering/freezing of frames on Disney+ 4K titles... Netflix, Prime, ATV etc are all silky smooth.

I have reloaded the app and updated it.
I've reset the projector to factory defaults etc. 

Any suggestions for Disney+?


----------



## da9el84

Hey all, I have two issues right now. 
1. I am seeing really bad ghosting all of the sudden. Tried changing the settings on projector for clarity to all settings, including off, still the same. I feel like I can even see it in the menu. Also tried changing the format on the Apple TV 4K(new edition, tvOS 15.4), frame rate, match content etc.









2. The bloody thing turns itself on daily now. I had the issue before, but I think the culprit back then was my Shield. When I disconnected that, it stopped. In the last month or so it started again. It's connected to my Denon AVR-3600H which is off and the input source through the Denon is my Apple TV which is also off. Just today it happened twice.

Running firmware 2201.1
Switched HDMI cable to receiver today and disabled anynet+.

Anyone else seeting these issues and have a fix?


----------



## emmanuellsam

da9el84 said:


> Hey all, I have two issues right now.
> 1. I am seeing really bad ghosting all of the sudden. Tried changing the settings on projector for clarity to all settings, including off, still the same. I feel like I can even see it in the menu. Also tried changing the format on the Apple TV 4K(new edition, tvOS 15.4), frame rate, match content etc.
> View attachment 3275926
> 
> 
> 2. The bloody thing turns itself on daily now. I had the issue before, but I think the culprit back then was my Shield. When I disconnected that, it stopped. In the last month or so it started again. It's connected to my Denon AVR-3600H which is off and the input source through the Denon is my Apple TV which is also off. Just today it happened twice.
> 
> Running firmware 2201.1
> Switched HDMI cable to receiver today and disabled anynet+.
> 
> Anyone else seeting these issues and have a fix?


it seems to be triggered by certain content on mine, it’s horrible on super pumped on showtime but none of it exists with billions still on showtime both via the Apple TV app so to watch super pumped with a good picture I had to use in built prime app.

am returning it today  I have looked all over the forum and can’t see anybody with the judder am seeing plus I have your ghosting too !!!!


----------



## Impact Blue

Hey, redcrow! This experience you mentioned MONTHS ago is EXACTLY what I'm experiencing now. Super frustrated. Also have done all the usual stuff, from power down to power drain, remote battery removal, etc. Did you ever find a resolution to the problem? My unit is pretty clean from what I can tell, so I can't imagine it's an overheating issue.? But right now it's really hit or miss whether it'll let me re-pair my remote or use the app, which is just heartbreaking. Sometimes it's just fine, and I'll get a solid hour of viewing. Or sometimes it'll power on to a spinning wheel & blinking remote...wtf. 



redcrow240 said:


> Just got mine today. Went through startup, saw a few seconds of video then all of a sudden said “Samsungtv plus is not available due to network problem. Check your network connection and try again” But now the remote doesn’t work and I can’t click on the option below the message that says “network status”. The remote just blinks. If I click a button other than power it says “not available” on the screen. Ideas? I’ve connected it via Ethernet and nothing because I can’t set it up due to the remote not being paired it seems. I can’t click anything or pair it. The button in the back of projector doesn’t do much other than power it and a few other things (volume, source. This thing is 20 minutes on since unpacking and I’m dead in the water. Any help would be appreciated. I would love to figure out how to factory reset but how if there’s only one button in the projector?


----------



## redcrow240

Impact Blue said:


> Hey, redcrow! This experience you mentioned MONTHS ago is EXACTLY what I'm experiencing now. Super frustrated. Also have done all the usual stuff, from power down to power drain, remote battery removal, etc. Did you ever find a resolution to the problem? My unit is pretty clean from what I can tell, so I can't imagine it's an overheating issue.? But right now it's really hit or miss whether it'll let me re-pair my remote or use the app, which is just heartbreaking. Sometimes it's just fine, and I'll get a solid hour of viewing. Or sometimes it'll power on to a spinning wheel & blinking remote...wtf.


I sent it to Samsung and got it back with a new “light engine” whatever that means. It wasn’t the remote (had bought a replacement) nor was it internet related (direct plugged into a new cable modem). I will say that for all the hassles in the end it’s been working great now. Kids use it in the morning and I use it during work so a good 8-9hr daily use. I suggest calibrating and using game mode. Room lighting and time of day need to be taken into account. If you mostly stream media (instead of using discs) you need to keep that in mind too as not all services are equal in quality. With a big screen you notice it more. Try Batman 1989 on hbo max and use jokers face in several scenes for example. No subtitle issue on my unit btw. I posted pics a while back on this thread to show light conditions (poor) still have a good picture.


----------



## lakersfreak

redcrow240 said:


> I sent it to Samsung and got it back with a new “light engine” whatever that means. It wasn’t the remote (had bought a replacement) nor was it internet related (direct plugged into a new cable modem). I will say that for all the hassles in the end it’s been working great now. Kids use it in the morning and I use it during work so a good 8-9hr daily use. I suggest calibrating and using game mode. Room lighting and time of day need to be taken into account. If you mostly stream media (instead of using discs) you need to keep that in mind too as not all services are equal in quality. With a big screen you notice it more. Try Batman 1989 on hbo max and use jokers face in several scenes for example. No subtitle issue on my unit btw. I posted pics a while back on this thread to show light conditions (poor) still have a good picture.


How long did it take Samsung to get the unit back to you? I feel like I also have the "light engine" issue. Sometimes I press the remote to turn it on, the red light on the front goes off (which indicates it's supposed to be on) but then the picture doesn't turn on, and I can't hear the start up fan the way I can hear it when the unit does start on. Power cycle fixes it temporarily. I spoke to my Best Buy salesman and he suggested it may be an issue with eARC. I turned off eARC about a week ago, and so far it's turning on normally. If I have one more occurrence where it doesn't turn on, I will be contacting Samsung.


----------



## da9el84

lakersfreak said:


> How long did it take Samsung to get the unit back to you? I feel like I also have the "light engine" issue. Sometimes I press the remote to turn it on, the red light on the front goes off (which indicates it's supposed to be on) but then the picture doesn't turn on, and I can't hear the start up fan the way I can hear it when the unit does start on. Power cycle fixes it temporarily. I spoke to my Best Buy salesman and he suggested it may be an issue with eARC. I turned off eARC about a week ago, and so far it's turning on normally. If I have one more occurrence where it doesn't turn on, I will be contacting Samsung.


Hmm, I've experienced this as well actually. Always figured it was an issue with earc, so just restarted the system and then it worked again. Happens a few times a month, since I got it iirc. So about a year now.


----------



## redcrow240

lakersfreak said:


> How long did it take Samsung to get the unit back to you? I feel like I also have the "light engine" issue. Sometimes I press the remote to turn it on, the red light on the front goes off (which indicates it's supposed to be on) but then the picture doesn't turn on, and I can't hear the start up fan the way I can hear it when the unit does start on. Power cycle fixes it temporarily. I spoke to my Best Buy salesman and he suggested it may be an issue with eARC. I turned off eARC about a week ago, and so far it's turning on normally. If I have one more occurrence where it doesn't turn on, I will be contacting Samsung.


In my case I could not access the menus because the remote wouldn’t pair and a network error message would take over the screen. No way to reset even after power draining it for a week. Took about 3 weeks to get it back


----------



## Impact Blue

redcrow240 said:


> In my case I could not access the menus because the remote wouldn’t pair and a network error message would take over the screen. No way to reset even after power draining it for a week. Took about 3 weeks to get it back


This is/was my issue as well. I rarely watch for more than a few hours at a time, but it's been happening at the most annoying times. Even on startup, or a few mins after; that's why I don't think it was an overheating issue. Luckily it's been fine recently, but if it happens enough, I'll have to send it out which I hope isn't too expensive. I'll get the wheel of death or network error, and an angry blinking remote in the middle of a youtube video or netflix, etc. Trying to re-pair the remote, it says 'another device is paired' or something. Very very annoying.

That said, this forum is great in terms of support and experiences. Thank you, redcrow for keeping us posted. It's probably more helpful than you know


----------



## justbenice

redcrow240 said:


> Clean it again with a microfiber cloth. Looks like streaks that Form when you initially wipe the lens. Happened to me and saw streaks similar in videos and light would shine all over the ceiling. Clean it for a few minutes and inspect the glass carefully.


It saved me too! Today i clean the glass and the PQ just make me..WOW!!!


----------



## redcrow240

What’s the latest firmware? 2022.1? Mine shows 2201. Which one is newer?


----------



## benplace23

I ordered an LSP9T from a Audio Video shop in Santa Monica through Amazon as an open box buy for $3,600. Just received it yesterday. In their listing it said full warranty, never turned on.
I was skeptical of course but I knew I had the power of Amazon behind me and this place had good reviews. It is indeed brand new. I pulled the sticky plastic off of it and everything was packaged exactly as a opening box youtube review I watched.
Anyways I am literally blown away by this projector and so happy I took the chance.
This thread is up to 102 pages now, is there somewhere I can get a good set of tips and tricks for this projector? Is there a way to get into a service menu so I can see hours used?
Thanks in advance for all of your help.


----------



## clipghost

benplace23 said:


> I ordered an LSP9T from a Audio Video shop in Santa Monica through Amazon as an open box buy for $3,600. Just received it yesterday. In their listing it said full warranty, never turned on.
> I was skeptical of course but I knew I had the power of Amazon behind me and this place had good reviews. It is indeed brand new. I pulled the sticky plastic off of it and everything was packaged exactly as a opening box youtube review I watched.
> Anyways I am literally blown away by this projector and so happy I took the chance.
> This thread is up to 102 pages now, is there somewhere I can get a good set of tips and tricks for this projector? Is there a way to get into a service menu so I can see hours used?
> Thanks in advance for all of your help.


Mind PM'ing me a link to where to order at that price? Thanks!


----------



## benplace23

clipghost said:


> Mind PM'ing me a link to where to order at that price? Thanks!


PM Sent


----------



## damir.colak

Guys, why do I see red laser not hitting the same spot as red and blue ones? 

All white text titles have red color below them! 

Yellow titles as well, it makes everything blury.

I did not find a control to fix the point of impact of the red laser. 

Is my device faulty, I just purchased it, should I send it back?

Thank you!


----------



## benplace23

damir.colak said:


> Guys, why do I see red laser not hitting the same spot as red and blue ones?
> 
> All white text titles have red color below them!
> 
> Yellow titles as well, it makes everything blury.
> 
> I did not find a control to fix the point of impact of the red laser.
> 
> Is my device faulty, I just purchased it, should I send it back?
> 
> Thank you!


Did you try adjusting the FOCUS setting? Mine looked like it had red lines below the white until I changed the focus setting.


----------



## damir.colak

Yes, it´s not a focus thing, the more focused it is more red color appears below white elements on the screen. I found it on other forums, it's a chromatic aberration all lsp9t´s have. I'm now working on returning it. Having one of three colors never hit the same spot as the other two is destroying the resolution and color accuracy. :-(


----------



## PlasticOnoJohn

benplace23 said:


> I ordered an LSP9T from a Audio Video shop in Santa Monica through Amazon as an open box buy for $3,600. Just received it yesterday. In their listing it said full warranty, never turned on.
> I was skeptical of course but I knew I had the power of Amazon behind me and this place had good reviews. It is indeed brand new. I pulled the sticky plastic off of it and everything was packaged exactly as a opening box youtube review I watched.
> Anyways I am literally blown away by this projector and so happy I took the chance.
> This thread is up to 102 pages now, is there somewhere I can get a good set of tips and tricks for this projector? Is there a way to get into a service menu so I can see hours used?
> Thanks in advance for all of your help.


I'm not too far away from you. Just got it "like new" from Amazon for $3,349, but it was clearly new, and never opened. Must've been returned without being opened. I've had such good luck with Amazon used items, and their return policy is fairly lenient.

If you know of a local Los Angeles spot to screen shop, I'm all ears.

Thanks!


----------



## Ray0

Hi, i was considering buying one, but i had a few questions,
i've never used UST projectors before,
i would really appreciate any help i can get thank you so much, 
here is the link









Samsung SP-LSP7T Laser Projector


Hi, i was advised to create a new post in the UST forum, because i'm considering buying one, currently, i have an old LG PF1500 1080p projector, and i'm looking for a good upgrade. -------------- Samsung SP-LSP7T Laser projector...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## damir.colak

I just got mine... there is something strange, from time to time complete picture "disassembles" in my eyes into red/blue/magenta/yellow colors and then "assembles" itself again. I do not know how else to explain it. If I close one eye and watch it with only one eye, it does not happen.

I keep fiddling with colors, in one move they are ok, in another I have to fiddle again.

Sometimes picture is ok, sometimes it is really bad. Just opening youtube/netflix apps presents you with COMPLETELY wrong colors.

Dune/Interstellar in dark scenes are hard to watch, in some modes, but when you make it work with dark scenes, bright scenes have wrong colors.

Not something I expected from the 6K usd projector and I have no idea what all the reviewers were smoking when they said this projector had great colors.


----------



## benplace23

I have done everything I can think of to get my Harmony hub and remote to work with the projector. I set it to the Samsung TV on the main page and nothing. I saw a guy who said to use the desktop app and go into Settings and Remote and Hub assignments and set it to remote. I don't have Remote and Hub assignments in my settings, just Hub Assignments and the only options in there is Hub Only or Blaster only options, no "remote" option. Anyone have any ideas?


----------



## Mikenificent1

benplace23 said:


> Anyways I am literally blown away by this projector


Did the projector explode and it blew you across the rooom or do you not know how to use the word “literally” properly??


----------



## bennutt

benplace23 said:


> I have done everything I can think of to get my Harmony hub and remote to work with the projector. I set it to the Samsung TV on the main page and nothing. I saw a guy who said to use the desktop app and go into Settings and Remote and Hub assignments and set it to remote. I don't have Remote and Hub assignments in my settings, just Hub Assignments and the only options in there is Hub Only or Blaster only options, no "remote" option. Anyone have any ideas?


My very first post on this thread has the model number you can add for Harmony happiness.

Keep in mind that your hub has to be able to see the IR sensor on the front of the Samsung unit. If you are blocking that, no dice.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## benplace23

Mikenificent1 said:


> Did the projector explode and it blew you across the rooom or do you not know how to use the word “literally” properly??


No, when I saw the quality of the picture, a gust of wind came from the projector fan and blew me out the front door and into the sky. Luckily I landed on my feet.


----------



## benplace23

bennutt said:


> My very first post on this thread has the model number you can add for Harmony happiness.
> 
> Keep in mind that your hub has to be able to see the IR sensor on the front of the Samsung unit. If you are blocking that, no dice.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I had no idea it had an infrared port on the front. Thanks for the heads up. Now to find a miniblaster cable that will work with my Harmony hub.


----------



## Salker

Hi everyone, I’m from Istanbul / Turkey and I’ve just recently bought my LSP9T projector from a Samsung store in Istanbul for 65.000 TL whİch is the equivalent of 4.100 USD. I also bought a 100 inch ARL UST screen for 10.600 TL which is also the equivalent of 670 USD. I gotto say that I’m very impressed with the projector and the screen.


----------



## DeepGroove

Hi everyone,

This is my first post in this forum. Since I got my LSP9T today, I thought I would share some Day 1 impressions.

Context:

This is my first UST. Previous set-up: BenQ W1070 short-throw on white wall. I also owned a LG B9 OLED TV
Screen: Vividstorm S-Pro 110"
Room: 25 sqm, white walls, black out shades
Media: 4k BluRay movies
Settings: Cinema Mode, sharpness 0

So far, I appreciate:

It took me only 5 min to do a quick-and-dirty placement, however I had to lift the front of the unit with a folded magazine. I managed to get top and bottom borders level at +/-1cm, no digital keystone correction needed
Picture is sharp, without being overly so
Despite converting all incoming signals to 60Hz, the unit has a light interpolation setting (judder = 3/10) that works well. I could not see artifacts

However, I do not like:

The shimmer party on litteraly every bright surface: sky, cloud, light clothing, you name it. It is close to the light scattering that occurs when you wipe a laptop screen with a wet tissue, and gives the impression to look through a dirty window. The opening scene of Alien Covenant, where David and Peter Weyland find themselves in a bright white room, is barely watchable. I understand this effect is due to the use of the Vividstorm screen; not sure why this is happening at all
Rainbows, too. Most of the time they just flash here and there, when I glance over a bright light. On subtitles, they are more subtle, but definitely present. On pictures with high contrast, they can become overwhelming, e.g. on the Alien Covenant movie title. I precise that I do not experience the same with my BenQ W1070. Perhaps the effect is amplified by the technical screen
Contrast is really a let down. Black borders appear very greyish. I could not find any option to reduce the lamp brightness: how is this even possible?! Gamma can't be changed on HDR content
Some white light seem to have a redish hue to it, not quite sure whether this is the red laser going overboard or the movie itself
I do see a slight glow right above the unit, where the light presumably bounces off the white casing
Remote, packaging are cheap
Overall, I find looking at the picture quite fatiguing.
So far, really not impressed. I will update these impressions as I put the unit through its paces.


----------



## BenHH

Hi,

im owning the lsp9t a few days, except for the green glow at 21:9 in the black bar below in very bright movies (eg kingdom of heaven with HDR) I am satisfied...but is this thin red bar normal ? (visible from the side to about 3m)

From Side around 1m











from side around 2,5m










Thanks and Regards
Ben


----------



## DeepGroove

BenHH said:


> Hi,
> 
> im owning the lsp9t a few days, except for the green glow at 21:9 in the black bar below in very bright movies (eg kingdom of heaven with HDR) I am satisfied...but is this thin red bar normal ? (visible from the side to about 3m)
> 
> From Side around 1m
> 
> View attachment 3284544
> 
> 
> 
> from side around 2,5m
> 
> View attachment 3284545
> 
> 
> Thanks and Regards
> Ben


I can't think of any scenario where this would be "normal" behavior. Obvious question, but are you sure it's not related to the projection surface or to dust/damage on the lens? If so, I would have the unit exchanged.


----------



## DeepGroove

DeepGroove said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> This is my first post in this forum. Since I got my LSP9T today, I thought I would share some Day 1 impressions.
> 
> Context:
> 
> This is my first UST. Previous set-up: BenQ W1070 short-throw on white wall. I also owned a LG B9 OLED TV
> Screen: Vividstorm S-Pro 110"
> Room: 25 sqm, white walls, black out shades
> Media: 4k BluRay movies
> Settings: Cinema Mode, sharpness 0
> 
> So far, I appreciate:
> 
> It took me only 5 min to do a quick-and-dirty placement, however I had to lift the front of the unit with a folded magazine. I managed to get top and bottom borders level at +/-1cm, no digital keystone correction needed
> Picture is sharp, without being overly so
> Despite converting all incoming signals to 60Hz, the unit has a light interpolation setting (judder = 3/10) that works well. I could not see artifacts
> 
> However, I do not like:
> 
> The shimmer party on litteraly every bright surface: sky, cloud, light clothing, you name it. It is close to the light scattering that occurs when you wipe a laptop screen with a wet tissue, and gives the impression to look through a dirty window. The opening scene of Alien Covenant, where David and Peter Weyland find themselves in a bright white room, is barely watchable. I understand this effect is due to the use of the Vividstorm screen; not sure why this is happening at all
> Rainbows, too. Most of the time they just flash here and there, when I glance over a bright light. On subtitles, they are more subtle, but definitely present. On pictures with high contrast, they can become overwhelming, e.g. on the Alien Covenant movie title. I precise that I do not experience the same with my BenQ W1070. Perhaps the effect is amplified by the technical screen
> Contrast is really a let down. Black borders appear very greyish. I could not find any option to reduce the lamp brightness: how is this even possible?! Gamma can't be changed on HDR content
> Some white light seem to have a redish hue to it, not quite sure whether this is the red laser going overboard or the movie itself
> I do see a slight glow right above the unit, where the light presumably bounces off the white casing
> Remote, packaging are cheap
> Overall, I find looking at the picture quite fatiguing.
> So far, really not impressed. I will update these impressions as I put the unit through its paces.


*Day 3 impresssions *

New thing I like:

Dayligtht performance is very impressive. This thing gets bright! Last night I watched a Roland Garros tennis game on Prime Video in evening light (~2 hours before sunset, all windows open): it was absolutely watchable. The sole marks on the clay had details and texture, and cranking the anti-judder to the max resulted in smooth motion, without distracting artifacts. I now appreciate the concept that this UST, coupled with a proper screen, can replace a large TV on most evenings.

Things I still like:

Like all USTs, once it’s positionned, there is no tweaking to do. Just press on and you're set.
After updating the software to the latest version, the rainbows seem to have decreased slightly (or my eyes got used to them), but make no mistake, there are still there, shining gloriously on bright objects

Things I still don't like:

No chance getting over the speckle/shimmer on my screen, it's just terrible
Movie watching experience ("Movie" and "Film maker" modes) in a dark room is still poor. The only way to decrease brightness seem to be decreasing contrast, which washes out the picture even more. On all contrast settings (from 20 to 40 out of 50), the picture looks flat and anemic.

Additional things that annoy me:

Getting even focus is challenging. I can't get proper focus at the top of the picture, but I understand this is a limitation with a fixed lens and the geometry of a UST
It does not seem possible to create user profiles, and there are only four presets. I find this very limiting
UI is fine, but not great for a "Smart TV"
The UI is responsive, but not snappy, which makes navigating the projector menus a bit painful
There are adds in the home screen… no thanks, I'll get a streaming box
There is a built in tuner ("Samsung TV") that automatically plays some cheap sitcoms dubbed in French whenever I turn on the unit. Not sure if this can be deactivated


At this stage, I don't mind the minuses much because the speckle/shimmer and the poor contrast are enough to have me return the unit.


----------



## bennutt

DeepGroove said:


> *Day 3 impresssions *
> 
> At this stage, I don't mind the minuses much because the speckle/shimmer and the poor contrast are enough to have me return the unit.


For what it is worth, I have a Grandview Dynamique screen. The Samsung speckled, the LG doesn't.


----------



## WhiteRabbit2004

Salker said:


> Hi everyone, I’m from Istanbul / Turkey and I’ve just recently bought my LSP9T projector from a Samsung retailer in Istanbul for 65.000 TL whİch is the equivlant of 4.100 USD. I also bought a 100 inch ARL UST screen for 10.600 TL which is the equivalent of 670 USD. I gotto say that I’m very impressed with the projector and screen. The only issue I have experienced so far is that I’ve downloaded a couple of 4K movies from pirates bay and when I try plwatch it via USB the images appear purpelish. Does anyone have any idea why?


This usually occurs due to downloading Dolbyvision formatted movies. You'll need to download standard HDR versions.


----------



## Salker

Guys, despite all my efforts I can’t get rid of the white shades around the screen. Can anyone help me out here. Is there a way to get rid of the shades or is it something we need to cope with? It’s really anoying 😔


----------



## Seafan75

New owner here.

So far I like it (mostly), but do anyone have any recommendations on a replacement remote? The person who decided to not have a button to change "source" on the remote need a stern talking to.
Or am I missing something obvious? Wouldn't be the first time.


----------



## Fabio_Meza

Could someone who has the LSP7T please measure how far and how high the projector needs to be from the wall to make a 136 inch screen? Thanks


----------



## Impact Blue

-deleted-


----------



## Impact Blue

-resolved-


----------



## MDesigns

Salker said:


> Guys, despite all my efforts I can’t get rid of the white shades around the screen. Can anyone help me out here. Is there a way to get rid of the shades or is it something we need to cope with? It’s really anoying 😔
> 
> View attachment 3286965


Do you have any edge on the screen and are you using any geometry correction? Geometry correction can not physically block light, so you can not use it if you want to avoid that overspill. You need to physically align the projector and screen better to avoid that.


----------



## benplace23

Impact Blue said:


> -resolved-


It would be best to not delete your post and say resolved but instead explain what fixed it so other sin the future might find help.


----------



## Impact Blue

benplace23 said:


> It would be best to not delete your post and say resolved but instead explain what fixed it so other sin the future might find help.


You're right - I just deleted out of my own ineptitude lol. Re: I had a coaxial issue, being the first time that I used that port. Could not get OTA signals to scan at all, due to a greyed out broadcast menu. Turns out, I had to select the source first (TV), before the option was available (which is not intuitive at all imo). That said, my antenna arrangement wasn't great anyway, so I couldn't acquire local network affiliates in my area. Might consider an option like the HDHomebox at this point.

Bonus tip that might have already been addressed: You can't use Device Care if another network app (?) is running in the background. Not 100% confirmed on this, but I could only access it at the time if I closed background processes manually.

Maybe an Nvidia Shield or dedicated HTPC might be the only resolve for this kinda bloat...who knows lol


----------



## Impact Blue

Fabio_Meza said:


> Could someone who has the LSP7T please measure how far and how high the projector needs to be from the wall to make a 136 inch screen? Thanks


Check the manual: https://www.projectorcentral.com/pdf/projector_manual_11355.pdf LSP7T max is 120" looks like, LSP9T is 130".


----------



## benplace23

Impact Blue said:


> You're right - I just deleted out of my own ineptitude lol. Re: I had a coaxial issue, being the first time that I used that port. Could not get OTA signals to scan at all, due to a greyed out broadcast menu. Turns out, I had to select the source first (TV), before the option was available (which is not intuitive at all imo). That said, my antenna arrangement wasn't great anyway, so I couldn't acquire local network affiliates in my area. Might consider an option like the HDHomebox at this point.
> 
> Bonus tip that might have already been addressed: You can't use Device Care if another network app (?) is running in the background. Not 100% confirmed on this, but I could only access it at the time if I closed background processes manually.
> 
> Maybe an Nvidia Shield or dedicated HTPC might be the only resolve for this kinda bloat...who knows lol


I have found, if you are going to use an indoor antenna, the higher in the house you can get it the better. I do not have cable (other than for Internet) I bought a standard flat, square powered antenna. I was able to get 2 digital channels in my basement. I moved my antenna to the top floor of the house, plugged it into a coax cable outlet and went to the basement and moved the incoming cable port on the splitter to that port. In essence I lit up every coax cable connector in my house to the digital antenna at the top floor of the house. I am now able to get over 30 digital channels in my basement.


----------



## WhiteRabbit2004

DeepGroove said:


> *Day 3 impresssions *
> 
> Things I still don't like:
> 
> No chance getting over the speckle/shimmer on my screen, it's just terrible
> Movie watching experience ("Movie" and "Film maker" modes) in a dark room is still poor. The only way to decrease brightness seem to be decreasing contrast, which washes out the picture even more. On all contrast settings (from 20 to 40 out of 50), the picture looks flat and anemic.
> Getting even focus is challenging. I can't get proper focus at the top of the picture, but I understand this is a limitation with a fixed lens and the geometry of a UST
> It does not seem possible to create user profiles, and there are only four presets. I find this very limiting
> UI is fine, but not great for a "Smart TV"
> The UI is responsive, but not snappy, which makes navigating the projector menus a bit painful
> There are adds in the home screen… no thanks, I'll get a streaming box
> There is a built in tuner ("Samsung TV") that automatically plays some cheap sitcoms dubbed in French whenever I turn on the unit. Not sure if this can be deactivated


Are you using a ALR UST screen? I'm using a 120" Cinema Gray ALR UST screen and it looks great even with the lights on. As far as the UI, I found the less apps installed the better it performs. It's not great, but it does help. Also you can disable the SamsungTV app from autoplaying.


----------



## Fabio_Meza

Impact Blue said:


> Check the manual: https://www.projectorcentral.com/pdf/projector_manual_11355.pdf LSP7T max is 120" looks like, LSP9T is 130".
> 
> View attachment 3288775





Impact Blue said:


> Check the manual: https://www.projectorcentral.com/pdf/projector_manual_11355.pdf LSP7T max is 120" looks like, LSP9T is 130".
> 
> View attachment 3288775



I know the maximum is 120" so I'm asking what the measurements for 135" are precisely because it's not in the manual. so I wanted to know if someone who has LSP7 could do this measurement.


----------



## jbernardi

Fabio_Meza said:


> I know the maximum is 120" so I'm asking what the measurements for 135" are precisely because it's not in the manual. so I wanted to know if someone who has LSP7 could do this measurement.


The chart shows that to increase the size 5 inches you have to move the LSP7T 1.1 inches further back.

You want to get 15 inches larger than 120. Looks like you have to move the projector 3.3 inches more.


----------



## Artcore

Frankis said:


> That really terrible man, mine got exchanged yesterday. Toke them 4 days. And the new one is great and does not have the color shifting.. i got a video from the old one, and the color shifting is so clear, will try upload in on yt and post here, so people understand the problem.
> 
> The company that sold it to me said if you want to return it and it have more then 1 hour projection time its 20% less value.. but i not want to return it i want a beamer worth my money, he understood and called it defect on arrival at samsung.
> 
> Here is my video of the old lsp9t with the color shifting. It shifts like 5 times in 10 seconds.


Hi. Could you tell me the name of the show and at what time the scene is? I need some good examples I can show the dealer. Thanks!


----------



## DeepGroove

WhiteRabbit2004 said:


> Are you using a ALR UST screen? I'm using a 120" Cinema Gray ALR UST screen and it looks great even with the lights on.


Yes I am - the Vividstorm S Pro. I am currently projecting on it with a long-throw Sony that costs roughly the same price and it's day and night.


----------



## Artcore

Hi. Does anyone maybe have a good example of a scene from either Netflix or HBO that has the white color shifting issue? I have found some but really want it to be as obvious as possible for a shorter scene to show for a repair, otherwise, I'm afraid they will just say they can't see it. Thanks


----------



## ddude003

Fabio_Meza said:


> I know the maximum is 120" so I'm asking what the measurements for 135" are precisely because it's not in the manual. so I wanted to know if someone who has LSP7 could do this measurement.


The question you should be asking is "Can my LSP7 focus correctly when projecting on to a 135" screen which is way outside of the spec for this projector?"... You might also be concerned about the hight the image would be on your wall/screen... I guess that is measurement B in the manual...


----------



## uuukung

Hi everyone I have the LSP9T with the XYScreens ALR PET screen for few months now and I loved it, however when I turn off all the light there is very big halo around screen and a lot of light leakage as well any idea how to fix this?


----------



## Salker

Welcome to the club. Everyone has the same problem. Some say the only way to get away with it is to get a screen with a wider bezzel.



uuukung said:


> Hi everyone I have the LSP9T with the XYScreens ALR PET screen for few months now and I loved it, however when I turn off all the light there is very big halo around screen and a lot of light leakage as well any idea how to fix this?
> View attachment 3292648
> 
> View attachment 3292649


----------



## CJF077

Hi Guys new user here and just recently purchased the LS9PT with a ALR 120 inch screen from elite screens. Appears to be all setup properly but notice like a “halo” effect on top of the screen when watching movies. Quite visible and looks like a white outline like an upside down U across the length of the top of the screen. All configuration appears to be spot on with everything lining up.
Also for those who have tweaked the unit to optimise configuration what settings have you changed?

Looks like the previous post answered my question!


----------



## uuukung

just post the same question above 😂 however, can you do us a favor and move the projector closer the screen to makethe display area around 100 inch and see what is it look like on the 120 inch screen I expect that the halo will goes away? Please take picture for us if you can , thank you in advance 🙏



CJF077 said:


> Hi Guys new user here and just recently purchased the LS9PT with a ALR 120 inch screen from elite screens. Appears to be all setup properly but notice like a “halo” effect on top of the screen when watching movies. Quite visible and looks like a white outline like an upside down U across the length of the top of the screen. All configuration appears to be spot on with everything lining up.
> Also for those who have tweaked the unit to optimise configuration what settings have you changed?
> 
> Looks like the previous post answered my question!


----------



## Impact Blue

Has anyone figured out how to best normalize audio (particularly with the Youtube app, but Plex & Netflix as well)? My levels are all over the place, it's super frustrating. Dialogue is so low, and yet effects and the adverts are BOOM in your face.


----------



## ddude003

Impact Blue said:


> Has anyone figured out how to best normalize audio (particularly with the Youtube app, but Plex & Netflix as well)? My levels are all over the place, it's super frustrating. Dialogue is so low, and yet effects and the adverts are BOOM in your face.


Have you tried the Auto Volume setting in the Sound Expert Settings???


----------



## Impact Blue

ddude003 said:


> Have you tried the Auto Volume setting in the Sound Expert Settings???


I just added a soundbar, so I'll check & report back! Thanks!

EDIT: Dang. Auto volume isn't an option when "using an external speaker". 😑 So weird - it's via HDMI ARC, a Samsung device, and it recognizes it. Scouring the manual for the soundbar now, this seems kinda dumb.

Now wondering what the Sonos Arc or Q990B is gonna be like, if it's possible.


----------



## ProfByron

New firmware 2300 has been released in Australia. Does anyone have any information on it?


----------



## DukeFleed2K

ProfByron said:


> New firmware 2300 has been released in Australia. Does anyone have any information on it?


Yes it’s version 2300.9 
Accordingly to a Korean link I found this is the change log:


*Detailed changes of version 2300.9*
_- HDMI 2.1 source audio performance improvement 

SmartView PIN popup display improvement
TV Off initial sound down improvement using Wifi speaker - Infolink
version application 

Specific ATV audio up/down behavior improvement
YouTube download system improvement
Channel When changing (82→83) voiceless improvement
_


----------



## hanks

ddude003 said:


> The question you should be asking is "Can my LSP7 focus correctly when projecting on to a 135" screen which is way outside of the spec for this projector?"... You might also be concerned about the hight the image would be on your wall/screen... I guess that is measurement B in the manual...


Im going to try and see what the max size if before you really start to see issues with blurring. It would be awesome to get one of those 150" blow up projector screens and use it outside.


----------



## benplace23

hanks said:


> Im going to try and see what the max size if before you really start to see issues with blurring. It would be awesome to get one of those 150" blow up projector screens and use it outside.


I have a 135inch screen with the LSP9T and it looks fantastic.


----------



## ddude003

Impact Blue said:


> I just added a soundbar, so I'll check & report back! Thanks!
> 
> EDIT: Dang. Auto volume isn't an option when "using an external speaker". 😑 So weird - it's via HDMI ARC, a Samsung device, and it recognizes it. Scouring the manual for the soundbar now, this seems kinda dumb.
> 
> Now wondering what the Sonos Arc or Q990B is gonna be like, if it's possible.


It is hard to make other suggestions without knowing what product your connecting to your PJ via HDMI... Seems the PJ is eARC... Which xmits audio at a higher rate...


----------



## ddude003

hanks said:


> Im going to try and see what the max size if before you really start to see issues with blurring. It would be awesome to get one of those 150" blow up projector screens and use it outside.


I bet it will make a real nice bug zapper... I am not so sure these PJs are designed to be outside in the elements...


----------



## Impact Blue

ddude003 said:


> It is hard to make other suggestions without knowing what product your connecting to your PJ via HDMI... Seems the PJ is eARC... Which xmits audio at a higher rate...


HW-A650 (2021): HW-A650 3.1 Soundbar w/ Dolby Atmos 5.1 (2021) | Samsung US

I realize with Youtube specifically, it's virtually impossible to normalize the audio without a plugin, since all of the content is authored at different standards to begin with. I've had a similar experience on desktop with MP4/MKV, but there's usually a plugin in VLC for that, or an extension for web content. Virtual 5.1 on my soundbar vs. 2-channel stereo on desktop is probably miles different in terms of a solution.


----------



## ddude003

Impact Blue said:


> HW-A650 (2021): HW-A650 3.1 Soundbar w/ Dolby Atmos 5.1 (2021) | Samsung US
> 
> I realize with Youtube specifically, it's virtually impossible to normalize the audio without a plugin, since all of the content is authored at different standards to begin with. I've had a similar experience on desktop with MP4/MKV, but there's usually a plugin in VLC for that, or an extension for web content. Virtual 5.1 on my soundbar vs. 2-channel stereo on desktop is probably miles different in terms of a solution.


Looks like you will have to control your soundbar from your soundbar, it is not an AVR... You might try Adaptive and/or DRC (Dynamic Range Control) from the soundbar's remote control...


----------



## DeepGroove

Salker said:


> Welcome to the club. Everyone has the same problem. Some say the only way to get away with it is to get a screen with a wider bezzel.


When I had the LSP9T I noticed that there was ~1 inch of projected black all around the picture. Looks like it is indeed by design.


----------



## Salker

The black area you’re refering to is the shadow of the screen (that’s normal). The issue is the white light that goes around the black area.











DeepGroove said:


> When I had the LSP9T I noticed that there was ~1 inch of projected black all around the picture. Looks like it is indeed by design.





DeepGroove said:


> When I had the LSP9T I noticed that there was ~1 inch of projected black all around the picture. Looks like it is indeed by design.


----------



## DeepGroove

Salker said:


> The black area you’re refering to is the shadow of the screen (that’s normal). The issue is the white light that goes around the black area.


This is indeed quite puzzling. It looks more than just residual black light projected outside of the frame.


----------



## Wardog555

Impact Blue said:


> Has anyone figured out how to best normalize audio (particularly with the Youtube app, but Plex & Netflix as well)? My levels are all over the place, it's super frustrating. Dialogue is so low, and yet effects and the adverts are BOOM in your face.


Not really possible I'm afraid. I experience volume differences all the time. And no it won't matter what device or equipment you use when different sources have different volumes.

The only thing would be to compress the dynamic range and you don't want that do you? As in changing what the source intended?


----------



## Dave Harper

DeepGroove said:


> This is indeed quite puzzling. It looks more than just residual black light projected outside of the frame.


It is. It’s called the “Pond of Mirrors”. It’s a normal thing with DLPs. 



https://www.ti.com/lit/an/dlpa104/dlpa104.pdf?ts=1655296890677&ref_url=https%253A%252F%252Fwww.google.com%252F














https://support.seenebula.com/s/article/Why-a-Black-Border-Exists-Around-the-Image-Projected-by-a-Nebula-Projector


----------



## hanks

ddude003 said:


> The question you should be asking is "Can my LSP7 focus correctly when projecting on to a 135" screen which is way outside of the spec for this projector?"... You might also be concerned about the hight the image would be on your wall/screen... I guess that is measurement B in the manual...


Tested the projector by bringing it way out on a flat wall, and I was easily able to get a 150" screen with minimal blurring on the upper corner edges. I was VERY impressed. With the 7t you should be able to go over the 120" pretty easily.


----------



## Casepb

Sorry if this has been asked before but is there any setting to reduce the red outline on white things like text? I heard it's called chromatic aberration. It's visible only when you first look at something white, and then I guess your eyes adjust to it because it fades away. Very weird, never seen a projector do this before.


----------



## newtophoto

is anyone able to share their full picture settings that i can try out? preferably movie mode and game mode.

thanks!


----------



## redcrow240

Anyone else get a white dot on the screen after the auto firmware update to 2300? I have one very Similar to what jereywolf got earlier in this thread. Just a heads up. Hopefully it goes away magically but wanted to mention it. Maybe stuck mirror? It’s white not black so I don’t think it’s dust. Noticed the “normal” color space option doesn’t change anything anymore. Might be placebo effect but picture looks a bit better and the “wet look” is a bit less.


----------



## freemchr

Hi Guys, I am getting a border on the top of the screen with LSP9T. I am getting on top of the screen and a little on the side. Looks like a halo but more like this kind of an upside down "U". All the configuration to align to the screen is perfect. It is a Elite Screens 120" ALR.

You can see this at the top of the screen, and slightly on the right hand side. Any guidance is appreciated on how this can be corrected?


----------



## Salker

Hi, I have the same issue on my 100” ALR screen. I believe this is a fix issue with most if not all UST projectors. Some say a wider screen bezzel will solve the problem where on the other hand some say to paint the wall behind the screen a dark colour. Since I can’t be bothered to do either, I’m trying to get used to it as it is but I must admit it is an annoying problem 












freemchr said:


> Hi Guys, I am getting a border on the top of the screen with LSP9T. I am getting on top of the screen and a little on the side. Looks like a halo but more like this kind of an upside down "U". All the configuration to align to the screen is perfect. It is a Elite Screens 120" ALR.
> 
> You can see this at the top of the screen, and slightly on the right hand side. Any guidance is appreciated on how this can be corrected?


----------



## Jordan-C

Recently became part of the club! Picked up the deal from RS with the included Sapphire ALR screen. Couple of questions... These photos show a pretty accurate example of black levels. Is this the best to be expected in a darkened but white room? (black out blinds at night). I've seen a couple photos on this thread that seem to have better performance in what looks like a similar environment. I've also heard Dynamicblack mentioned but I don't seem to have an visible difference across the picture modes or when s scene is predominately dark, I can't notice any reduction is overall brightness (might be understanding the feature incorrectly but it seems like a PJ equivalent to dimming). 

secondly, I can notice a slight red tone to the centre of the image and a slightly greener tone to either side of the image (most noticeable on Apure white screen). Again, it's this something to be expected? 

Thanks in advance for any help!


----------



## Casepb

Salker said:


> Hi, I have the same issue on my 100” ALR screen. I believe this is a fix issue with most if not all UST projectors. Some say a wider screen bezzel will solve the problem where on the other hand some say to paint the wall behind the screen a dark colour. Since I can’t be bothered to do either, I’m trying to get used to it as it is but I must admit it is an annoying problem


 It sucks but that is how these UST projectors work. Thankfully my wall was already painted black so I don't see it at all.


----------



## Salker

Great for you. Could you please share a photo. İf its a certain solution I might paint my wall dark grey.



Casepb said:


> It sucks but that is how these UST projectors work. Thankfully my wall was already painted black so I don't see it at all.


----------



## uuukung

Salker said:


> Great for you. Could you please share a photo. İf its a certain solution I might paint my wall dark grey.


Yes please share the pic would like to see as well if it worth to paint the wall behide black but honestly I used Fengmi 4K before upgrade to LSP9T it’s has the halo but not this bad 😅 not sure we can tweak it a bit to make the halo less?


----------



## Wardog555

Jordan-C said:


> Recently became part of the club! Picked up the deal from RS with the included Sapphire ALR screen. Couple of questions... These photos show a pretty accurate example of black levels. Is this the best to be expected in a darkened but white room? (black out blinds at night). I've seen a couple photos on this thread that seem to have better performance in what looks like a similar environment. I've also heard Dynamicblack mentioned but I don't seem to have an visible difference across the picture modes or when s scene is predominately dark, I can't notice any reduction is overall brightness (might be understanding the feature incorrectly but it seems like a PJ equivalent to dimming).
> 
> secondly, I can notice a slight red tone to the centre of the image and a slightly greener tone to either side of the image (most noticeable on Apure white screen). Again, it's this something to be expected?
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help!


I had looked into this projector and if that's the black levels then I wouldn't buy one myself!


----------



## ceku

when i watch the same thing on built in netflix or disney app compared to apple tv, built in apps’ quality is poor. what is the reason? same app, same content.


----------



## ApeEx

I just got the 2300.9 update, and all the colors are super accurate. (Granted, I haven't used it much since the last update, so it could've been that one). Before, without adjustments, the reds were noticably too bright in some instances, and it looked off. It was very noticeable in the Disney plus app on the One X. Now it looks phenomenal on the default settings. Any one else notice a difference?


----------



## Miguelini

Hello Does anyone have or had the problem of a small white dot permanently projecting on the image? Is there a solution? Thank you!


----------



## Dave Harper

Miguelini said:


> Hello Does anyone have or had the problem of a small white dot permanently projecting on the image? Is there a solution? Thank you!


That's usually a dead or stuck pixel. Try projecting a full white field for a few hours and then a full black image for a few hours and see if that unsticks it. Also check to make sure it's not something on or with your screen, which I have also seen. Try moving your screen a little and see if it moves with it, goes away or stays there in the same position.


----------



## redcrow240

Miguelini, see my post a page or two back. I Got a white dot all of a sudden. Just sent it to Samsung because it appears to be permanent and others may soon appear. Tried white screen, pixel shifters, reset etc. looks to be a mirror


----------



## Miguelini

Dave Harper said:


> That's usually a dead or stuck pixel. Try projecting a full white field for a few hours and then a full black image for a few hours and see if that unsticks it. Also check to make sure it's not something on or with your screen, which I have also seen. Try moving your screen a little and see if it moves with it, goes away or stays there in the same position.


Thanks Dave, I'll try what you suggest.


----------



## Miguelini

redcrow240 said:


> Miguelini, see my post a page or two back. I Got a white dot all of a sudden. Just sent it to Samsung because it appears to be permanent and others may soon appear. Tried white screen, pixel shifters, reset etc. looks to be a mirror


Thanks Redcrow240, I'll do that after trying what Dave suggests.


----------



## Miguelini

I share images of the white point at different distances.


----------



## DunMunro

Miguelini said:


> I share images of the white point at different distances.


It looks like a stuck micromirror.


----------



## newtophoto

ApeEx said:


> I just got the 2300.9 update, and all the colors are super accurate. (Granted, I haven't used it much since the last update, so it could've been that one). Before, without adjustments, the reds were noticably too bright in some instances, and it looked off. It was very noticeable in the Disney plus app on the One X. Now it looks phenomenal on the default settings. Any one else notice a difference?


so you're using the settings after a reset and it looks good? have you made any adjustments since then?


----------



## Jordan-C

Seem to have quite a bad white uniformity issue... Very red/brown/pink to the centre of the image. Anyone experience anything similar or is there an issue with my unit?


----------



## romikemi

I thought it would be a good idea to add my experience with this projector. I'm on my fifth. I have the green blob problem.

Fifth? Yes, Best Buy Magnolia replaced it three times. They will no longer provide replacement, they will only refund. This is a unit they are featuring in their larger Magnolia layouts. My fourth replacement is coming from Samsung because the NJ repair center confirmed the problem and indicated no field fix is possible. Samsung took two weeks to approve the replacement after the repair shop reported not repairable.

Green blob problem? Yes. On an image where bottom center is black and most of the image is bright, a fuzzy green overcast can be seen. This has been reported here, but only in very, very few posts (around page 78). I guess the comfort I take from that is that this blob is not common. It certainly is in my world. Three times, Magnolia installers agreed it was a problem. Granted, Best Buy is going to pull all their inventory from a single stream so they're likely to have consistent defects from similar dates of manufacture.

The most obvious mass media demonstration of this problem is at 33:10-33:50 in Dune, where the blob appears over Paul's black jacket. There are a few dozen scenes in Game of Thrones ruined by it, such as S4E4 below deck on the ship.

I use a Vividstorm 120" retractable tab tension ALR. Zero issues with the screen after needing to beat Elite Screens, nee Elite ProAV, into submission over a motor defect that caused the axle to slam every foot or so while retracting. That was a fun exchange that was ultimately resolved by the great people at projectorscreen dot com. Not a shameless plug, just a very satisfied customer.

Maybe my replacement will have no green blur. Maybe it'll have tolerable chromatic aberration. Maybe 2300 won't white-dot me. If not, my next post will be on another official product thread.

Make some popcorn, stay tuned.


----------



## JereyWolf

romikemi said:


> I thought it would be a good idea to add my experience with this projector. I'm on my fifth. I have the green blob problem.
> 
> Fifth? Yes, Best Buy Magnolia replaced it three times. They will no longer provide replacement, they will only refund. This is a unit they are featuring in their larger Magnolia layouts. My fourth replacement is coming from Samsung because the NJ repair center confirmed the problem and indicated no field fix is possible. Samsung took two weeks to approve the replacement after the repair shop reported not repairable.
> 
> Green blob problem? Yes. On an image where bottom center is black and most of the image is bright, a fuzzy green overcast can be seen. This has been reported here, but only in very, very few posts (around page 78). I guess the comfort I take from that is that this blob is not common. It certainly is in my world. Three times, Magnolia installers agreed it was a problem. Granted, Best Buy is going to pull all their inventory from a single stream so they're likely to have consistent defects from similar dates of manufacture.
> 
> The most obvious mass media demonstration of this problem is at 33:10-33:50 in Dune, where the blob appears over Paul's black jacket. There are a few dozen scenes in Game of Thrones ruined by it, such as S4E4 below deck on the ship.
> 
> I use a Vividstorm 120" retractable tab tension ALR. Zero issues with the screen after needing to beat Elite Screens, nee Elite ProAV, into submission over a motor defect that caused the axle to slam every foot or so while retracting. That was a fun exchange that was ultimately resolved by the great people at projectorscreen dot com. Not a shameless plug, just a very satisfied customer.
> 
> Maybe my replacement will have no green blur. Maybe it'll have tolerable chromatic aberration. Maybe 2300 won't white-dot me. If not, my next post will be on another official product thread.
> 
> Make some popcorn, stay tuned.


I believe the green hot-spot is the result.of poor chassis design. The light path from the lens is the main cause and is super distracting in any dark scene with bright areas. 
I wrote about it before on this thread, I was able to almost entirely eliminate it by covering the housing right in front of the lens without blocking the image. 

I had to move on from my LSP9T after a long tragic repair campaign from Samsung for other issues. 

I suggest checking out this after a refund from Best Buy. 









Formovie Theater Ultra Short Throw Projector 2800 Lumen Triple Laser UST Fengmi T1 Global Android OS - Formovie Formovie-Theater


#Formovie-Theater - Formovie Theater Ultra Short Throw Projector 2800 Lumen Triple Laser UST Fengmi T1 Global Android OS




www.projectorscreen.com


----------



## ProjectionHead

romikemi said:


> I thought it would be a good idea to add my experience with this projector. I'm on my fifth. I have the green blob problem.
> 
> Fifth? Yes, Best Buy Magnolia replaced it three times. They will no longer provide replacement, they will only refund. This is a unit they are featuring in their larger Magnolia layouts. My fourth replacement is coming from Samsung because the NJ repair center confirmed the problem and indicated no field fix is possible. Samsung took two weeks to approve the replacement after the repair shop reported not repairable.
> 
> Green blob problem? Yes. On an image where bottom center is black and most of the image is bright, a fuzzy green overcast can be seen. This has been reported here, but only in very, very few posts (around page 78). I guess the comfort I take from that is that this blob is not common. It certainly is in my world. Three times, Magnolia installers agreed it was a problem. Granted, Best Buy is going to pull all their inventory from a single stream so they're likely to have consistent defects from similar dates of manufacture.
> 
> The most obvious mass media demonstration of this problem is at 33:10-33:50 in Dune, where the blob appears over Paul's black jacket. There are a few dozen scenes in Game of Thrones ruined by it, such as S4E4 below deck on the ship.
> 
> I use a Vividstorm 120" retractable tab tension ALR. Zero issues with the screen after needing to beat Elite Screens, nee Elite ProAV, into submission over a motor defect that caused the axle to slam every foot or so while retracting. That was a fun exchange that was ultimately resolved by the great people at projectorscreen dot com. Not a shameless plug, just a very satisfied customer.
> 
> Maybe my replacement will have no green blur. Maybe it'll have tolerable chromatic aberration. Maybe 2300 won't white-dot me. If not, my next post will be on another official product thread.
> 
> Make some popcorn, stay tuned.


… should have bought your projector from the same people who helped you out with that screen….


----------



## romikemi

JereyWolf said:


> I suggest checking out this after a refund from Best Buy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Formovie Theater Ultra Short Throw Projector 2800 Lumen Triple Laser UST Fengmi T1 Global Android OS - Formovie Formovie-Theater
> 
> 
> #Formovie-Theater - Formovie Theater Ultra Short Throw Projector 2800 Lumen Triple Laser UST Fengmi T1 Global Android OS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.projectorscreen.com


Just skimming over the details, that's a very compelling option.The only thing I see so far is it's a pixel shifter. But it has several benefits that are worth paying half as much as an LSP9T to have. I may need to give more of my money to my favorite people in New Jersey.


----------



## JereyWolf

romikemi said:


> Just skimming over the details, that's a very compelling option.The only thing I see so far is it's a pixel shifter. But it has several benefits that are worth paying half as much as an LSP9T to have. I may need to give more of my money to my favorite people in New Jersey.


I have the Chinese imported version...and it's a pretty impressive step-up in image quality specifically in dark scenes. 

The global version I linked appears to be even better based on early reviews and measurements. 

And the fact that it's available locally is a big bonus.


----------



## romikemi

For the curious, here's Mr. Atreides wondering whether cast laundry has been hitting the spice a little hard

.


----------



## JereyWolf

romikemi said:


> For the curious, here's Mr. Atreides wondering whether cast laundry has been hitting the spice a little hard
> 
> .
> View attachment 3301353


I have many similar photos too.
see these posts:

#1477








Official Samsung "Premiere" LSP9T Owners Thread


I’m noticing this now too. I‘m on my second LSP9T and didn’t notice it on my first one, but it could be I was watching the right content. Noticed it in a number of scenes in the final episode of Squid Game. Is this normal or is the projector defective?[ I've had it with mine since the...




www.avsforum.com





#1779








Official Samsung "Premiere" LSP9T Owners Thread


to be honest, I have a $300 Elite Screen and the picture is amazing. LSP9T is my first projector, and I'm coming from a 2018 Sony 900H TV. Pic quality on the LSP9T is better than the Sony TV. Thanks for the suggestion. Will keep my options open in that case. With a normal screen I am mostly...




www.avsforum.com





....not ideal but it works.


----------



## djn2004

romikemi said:


> I thought it would be a good idea to add my experience with this projector. I'm on my fifth. I have the green blob problem.
> 
> Fifth? Yes, Best Buy Magnolia replaced it three times. They will no longer provide replacement, they will only refund. This is a unit they are featuring in their larger Magnolia layouts. My fourth replacement is coming from Samsung because the NJ repair center confirmed the problem and indicated no field fix is possible. Samsung took two weeks to approve the replacement after the repair shop reported not repairable.
> 
> Green blob problem? Yes. On an image where bottom center is black and most of the image is bright, a fuzzy green overcast can be seen. This has been reported here, but only in very, very few posts (around page 78). I guess the comfort I take from that is that this blob is not common. It certainly is in my world. Three times, Magnolia installers agreed it was a problem. Granted, Best Buy is going to pull all their inventory from a single stream so they're likely to have consistent defects from similar dates of manufacture.
> 
> The most obvious mass media demonstration of this problem is at 33:10-33:50 in Dune, where the blob appears over Paul's black jacket. There are a few dozen scenes in Game of Thrones ruined by it, such as S4E4 below deck on the ship.
> 
> I use a Vividstorm 120" retractable tab tension ALR. Zero issues with the screen after needing to beat Elite Screens, nee Elite ProAV, into submission over a motor defect that caused the axle to slam every foot or so while retracting. That was a fun exchange that was ultimately resolved by the great people at projectorscreen dot com. Not a shameless plug, just a very satisfied customer.
> 
> Maybe my replacement will have no green blur. Maybe it'll have tolerable chromatic aberration. Maybe 2300 won't white-dot me. If not, my next post will be on another official product thread.
> 
> Make some popcorn, stay tuned.


I think this is a design defect rather than a manufacturing defect, and it effects all units rather than some. I've had two LSP9Ts and both have the green blob issue. I wonder if it's more noticeable when you're using a CLR screen and the sawtooth pattern is reflecting the light back at the projector? Who knows. Part of the problem is Samsung doesn't make a screen and I doubt they have tested the LSP9T on CLR screens to reproduce the issue.

Like @JereyWolf I was able to almost completely eliminate the blob by placing a black microfiber laptop sleeve over the top of the projector. The closer I can get the sleeve to cover all the way up to the bottom of the image, the less visible the blob becomes. The problem is that ideally the sleeve would not be a straight line but instead an arc with the peak at the center of the image. It would be great if someone (hello Samsung) could create a template that would allow a piece of material to be place around the lens opening. If done right this could eliminate both the green blob and halo issue that so many of us have with these projectors.


----------



## utdleeds

I am looking for some recommendations on a 120 inch screen for my all white room with lots of ambient light, I am in the UK


----------



## JereyWolf

djn2004 said:


> I think this is a design defect rather than a manufacturing defect, and it effects all units rather than some. I've had two LSP9Ts and both have the green blob issue. I wonder if it's more noticeable when you're using a CLR screen and the sawtooth pattern is reflecting the light back at the projector? Who knows. Part of the problem is Samsung doesn't make a screen and I doubt they have tested the LSP9T on CLR screens to reproduce the issue.
> 
> Like @JereyWolf I was able to almost completely eliminate the blob by placing a black microfiber laptop sleeve over the top of the projector. The closer I can get the sleeve to cover all the way up to the bottom of the image, the less visible the blob becomes. The problem is that ideally the sleeve would not be a straight line but instead an arc with the peak at the center of the image. It would be great if someone (hello Samsung) could create a template that would allow a piece of material to be place around the lens opening. If done right this could eliminate both the green blob and halo issue that so many of us have with these projectors.


This is what mine looked like. Ugly, but it worked well. 
I used a mousepad because it had enough weight to stay flat while draped over the curved chassis and had a grippy surface to not slide around.


----------



## Dave Harper

djn2004 said:


> I think this is a design defect rather than a manufacturing defect, and it effects all units rather than some. I've had two LSP9Ts and both have the green blob issue. I wonder if it's more noticeable when you're using a CLR screen and the sawtooth pattern is reflecting the light back at the projector? Who knows. Part of the problem is Samsung doesn't make a screen and I doubt they have tested the LSP9T on CLR screens to reproduce the issue.
> 
> Like @JereyWolf I was able to almost completely eliminate the blob by placing a black microfiber laptop sleeve over the top of the projector. The closer I can get the sleeve to cover all the way up to the bottom of the image, the less visible the blob becomes. The problem is that ideally the sleeve would not be a straight line but instead an arc with the peak at the center of the image. It would be great if someone (hello Samsung) could create a template that would allow a piece of material to be place around the lens opening. If done right this could eliminate both the green blob and halo issue that so many of us have with these projectors.


I also noticed that the tilt angle of the front had an impact on how much of it you see, if any. If I made it perfectly plumb and level along with the screen without any digital manipulation or keystone of the image then it was pretty much invisible. 

I also use a piece of felt fabric over the top and down to the lens. 

I’m haven’t noticed a green blob once these things are done, on a white AT screen or a CLR screen made for USTs.


----------



## newtophoto

is anyone using this projector with a sonos arc? do you have problems of sound not working and having to reconnect the hdmi every so often? any tips for preventing this issue? I think it's what's called handshake?


----------



## hanks

Tested it to the max I could do at the time. I was able to do 160in on a 2.39:1 ratio with LOTR Two Towers. Since the top corners are part of the black bars there was zero blurring on the content itself.


----------



## bosswell

Did anyone have problems with Apple TV 4K 2nd gen?

It only shows in 1080p. Is there any chance to change it?


----------



## Lord Avenger

JereyWolf said:


> This is what mine looked like. Ugly, but it worked well.
> I used a mousepad because it had enough weight to stay flat while draped over the curved chassis and had a grippy surface to not slide around.
> 
> View attachment 3301709


Hi JereyWolf, when I tried the same, it casts a shadow of the blocker on the bottom of the screen, especially on any content that is not 1:2.35. Does the mouse pad tip down towards the lens at the dip?

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## JereyWolf

Lord Avenger said:


> Hi JereyWolf, when I tried the same, it casts a shadow of the blocker on the bottom of the screen, especially on any content that is not 1:2.35. Does the mouse pad tip down towards the lens at the dip?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


Yeah, when I had it set up the mousepad would slightly overlap the lens cover, resting on top of it. 

If there's letterboxing you can get it a little bit closer....but when it's full screen content, it needs pulled back. 

You have to try finding just the right amount of coverage....which is right at the edge of obscuring the bottom of the projected image.


----------



## Artcore

Seems that most use the Vividstorm S Pro with the projector. Has anyone tried Elite Screens floor rising model Kestrel? Or maybe their fixed screen Aeon CLR?


----------



## Lord Avenger

JereyWolf said:


> Yeah, when I had it set up the mousepad would slightly overlap the lens cover, resting on top of it.
> 
> If there's letterboxing you can get it a little bit closer....but when it's full screen content, it needs pulled back.
> 
> You have to try finding just the right amount of coverage....which is right at the edge of obscuring the bottom of the projected image.


JereyWolf, thanks again. Meaning the mouse pad was pivoted with the peak of the curve resting on the bottom of the lens? The mouse pad would lean back against the dip in front of the lens. Am I understanding this right?

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## ddude003

Artcore said:


> Seems that most use the Vividstorm S Pro with the projector. Has anyone tried Elite Screens floor rising model Kestrel? Or maybe their fixed screen Aeon CLR?


I have a LSP7T in use with an Elite Screens Fixed CLR3 103 inch in my living room... Pretty good in daylight with some light control via Venetian blinds... Stunningly beautiful at night with some low level ambient light... Jumps into your face in total darkness... Maybe I should wear some cheap sunglasses...


----------



## JereyWolf

Lord Avenger said:


> JereyWolf, thanks again. Meaning the mouse pad was pivoted with the peak of the curve resting on the bottom of the lens? The mouse pad would lean back against the dip in front of the lens. Am I understanding this right?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


Yeah I think we're talking about the same thing.
I had it slightly on the glass cover of the lens and it followed the contour on the chassis the rest of the way up.


----------



## Lord Avenger

JereyWolf said:


> Yeah I think we're talking about the same thing.
> I had it slightly on the glass cover of the lens and it followed the contour on the chassis the rest of the way up.


Great. I will give this a shot.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Thermio1

Hi Guys, haven’t been posting for a while. Just converted from CRT Barco 909 first with the LG and now to the LSP9T. I find it a lot better in most ways than the LG. I have ordered the Apple TV w DV and a Vertex ala HarperVision (Samsung LSP9T The Premiere 4K Laser Projector Review & Comments) in order to see what this can do. I have only seen one post of his for the settings on this combination and was wondering if there is an update since Apr 2021. It would be nice to have a reference of newer settings to refer to. Despite several hours of thread and search perusals I have not found anything although I have seen references to them. I am pretty happy with the images despite being able to readily see the RBE and other artifacts. I started with bare white wall, then old CRT screen and now on to the Blitzwolf ALR screen. This screen made a big difference and allowed me to see the UST path has potential. For its low price it does a solid job for anyone who is playing around with screens that are not UST friendly. My experience indicates an ALR screen is essential for UST. Hope to upgrade to see what a premium ALR screen can do. BTW the settings on page 7 of the LSP9T review thread really helped the proceedings… thank you.


----------



## Dave Harper

Thermio1 said:


> Hi Guys, haven’t been posting for a while. Just converted from CRT Barco 909 first with the LG and now to the LSP9T. I find it a lot better in most ways than the LG. I have ordered the Apple TV w DV and a Vertex ala HarperVision (Samsung LSP9T The Premiere 4K Laser Projector Review & Comments) in order to see what this can do. I have only seen one post of his for the settings on this combination and was wondering if there is an update since Apr 2021. It would be nice to have a reference of newer settings to refer to. Despite several hours of thread and search perusals I have not found anything although I have seen references to them. I am pretty happy with the images despite being able to readily see the RBE and other artifacts. I started with bare white wall, then old CRT screen and now on to the Blitzwolf ALR screen. This screen made a big difference and allowed me to see the UST path has potential. For its low price it does a solid job for anyone who is playing around with screens that are not UST friendly. My experience indicates an ALR screen is essential for UST. Hope to upgrade to see what a premium ALR screen can do. BTW the settings on page 7 of the LSP9T review thread really helped the proceedings… thank you.


I would try these:

























If 10,000 nits max luminance in the Dolby Vision Data Block looks too hot like you have contrast cranked, then try 1,000 or feel free to experiment with the values here as that’s the section that affects the image the most when combined with the other settings.


----------



## GreenBanana333

Hi I Just got a LSP9T and loving it, but how do I disable/remove the advertisement in the bar at the bottom next to the 'Home' icon? It's for Tubi and says 'Sponsored'. Thanks!

Also I wouldn't mind getting rid of the 'Home' icon too, if that's possible?


----------



## ProfByron

Dave Harper said:


> I would try these:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If 10,000 nits max luminance in the Dolby Vision Data Block looks too hot like you have contrast cranked, then try 1,000 or feel free to experiment with the values here as that’s the section that affects the image the most when combined with the other settings.


Thank you, Dave Harper, you are a legend. Anyone with an LSP9T, forget fiddling around with the Samsing tweaks, follow these instructions!


----------



## avsenthusiast

DeepGroove said:


> However, I do not like:
> 
> Contrast is really a let down. Black borders appear very greyish. I could not find any option to reduce the lamp brightness: how is this even possible?! Gamma can't be changed on HDR content


What contrast settings do you use? On my pure white 1.0 gain screen, in a completely dark room, I was able to get the letterbox blend completely with the dark content on screen.



DeepGroove said:


> Some white light seem to have a redish hue to it, not quite sure whether this is the red laser going overboard or the movie itself


Have you tried calibrating the projector? The red hue/tint out of the box is really weird on this projector but I was able to get rid of it after some extensive calibration.


----------



## Salker

Hi everyone, here’s a few photos of my sitting room after its complete renewal (dimensions of the room is 415 cm’s in length and 335 cm’s in width). The screen size 100”. I could of probably gone for an 120” but I than I thought 100 would be enough for a room this size. What do you guys think?


----------



## rajeevalone

Salker said:


> Hi everyone, here’s a few photos of my sitting room after its complete renewal (dimensions of the room is 415 cm’s in length and 335 cm’s in width). The screen size 100”. I could of probably gone for an 120” but I than I thought 100 would be enough for a room this size. What do you guys think?
> View attachment 3305586
> 
> View attachment 3305587
> 
> View attachment 3305585



looks great, can you please let me know on whats the screen you went with?


----------



## rajeevalone

Budget is not a constraint, can someone please suggest whats the best screen for *LSP9T?*


----------



## Salker

rajeevalone said:


> Budget is not a constraint, can someone please suggest whats the best screen for *LSP9T?*


I’m from istanbul / turkey. I bought mine from local dealer for 14.406 tl which is the equivalent of 830 usd tax included


----------



## avsenthusiast

For those not wanting to spend so much money on the HDfury Vertex2, this is just to share that I am successfully getting LLDV on LSP9T using the "lowly" Arcana. 

It doesn't have all the fancy features of the Vertex2 but it does make the LSP9T play DoVi titles. 

Here are the settings: 

HDR sub-menu: 

LLDV Sync: On

LLDV>HDR sub-menu: 

Primaries: BT2020 (DCI-P3 produces some weird colors)
Min Luminance: 0
Max Luminance: 10000
LLDV Support: On

Hope this information helps someone save a few bucks 

* additionally, Hdfury from time to time releases discount coupons, so watch out for those.


----------



## Jordan-C

avsscientist said:


> What contrast settings do you use? On my pure white 1.0 gain screen, in a completely dark room, I was able to get the letterbox blend completely with the dark content on screen.
> 
> ... Jumping in on this conversation, I have an 0.42 gain ALR and it is no where near black in a dark room (painted white). Bit confused really as it seems there is much better black performance throughout this thread.


----------



## Jordan-C

Also, is this a normal amount of dust to be inside the lens?


----------



## avsenthusiast

Jordan-C said:


> . Jumping in on this conversation, I have an 0.42 gain ALR and it is no where near black in a dark room (painted white). Bit confused really as it seems there is much better black performance throughout this thread.


Hi @Jordan-C, to clarify, I didn't mention "near black" or "black." When I said, "On my pure white 1.0 gain screen, in a completely dark room, I was able to get the letterbox *blend* completely with the dark content on screen," it means perceptually areas that are meant to be black will be perceived as black when content is played (not charts, blank screen or test patterns), especially when in HDR mode using the HDfury with LLDV enabled.


----------



## Impact Blue

Not an audiophile here, but currently looking for suggestions on a good 5.1 setup with wireless rear satellites for the ol' LSP9T. Torn between the new Q990B, Sonos Arc, or possibly a dedicated AV setup that can support wireless (?) if that's a thing. Preferably under 2k in total, for a small space. Thanks!


----------



## Impact Blue

Jordan-C said:


> Also, is this a normal amount of dust to be inside the lens?


I'd like to know as well! It doesn't seem like there are any filters in the fan intake.


----------



## Salker

Is there anyone who is NOT suffering a light bleed issue on the LSP9T? If so, could you please share what precautions you’ve taken to avoid this annoying issue


----------



## ProfByron

Impact Blue said:


> Not an audiophile here, but currently looking for suggestions on a good 5.1 setup with wireless rear satellites for the ol' LSP9T. Torn between the new Q990B, Sonos Arc, or possibly a dedicated AV setup that can support wireless (?) if that's a thing. Preferably under 2k in total, for a small space. Thanks!


Samsung HW950A is very impressive.


----------



## redcrow240

ProfByron said:


> Samsung HW950A is very impressive.


My idea is Two original HomePods on either side. Connected to Apple TV via earc. I may be an outlier in that I’m going backwards towards simplicity (currently have Martin Logans and sub to a avr)


----------



## redcrow240

redcrow240 said:


> My idea is Two original HomePods on either side. Connected to Apple TV via earc. I may be an outlier in that I’m going backwards towards simplicity (current have Martin Logans and sun to a avr)


I have two I plan on using and ordered a mesh cover to kinda turn them white-ish to match the projector. Screenshots below


----------



## redcrow240

Btw got the projector back yesterday from Samsung regarding the white dot on the screen. Work order says they replaced “SVC JDM engine”. Currently appears to have been fixed properly. Firmware is 2300. Turned auto update off just in case.


----------



## Impact Blue

redcrow240 said:


> My idea is Two original HomePods on either side. Connected to Apple TV via earc. I may be an outlier in that I’m going backwards towards simplicity (currently have Martin Logans and sub to a avr)


I love the wireless component, but I feel like this unit really needs a dedicated center firing channel for dialogue. That's my biggest gripe atm, because my current 'budget' soundbar (a650), or with the built-in speaker, clear dialogue is so hard to isolate. I prefer towards more mid/high treble anyway, and not particularly loud, but without real equalization or specific direction, it's sound is pretty muddy. Which is so weird, because my viewing distance is probably shorter than most. 😪

Maybe Sony's A9, but I haven't been able to hear a demo unit yet. The auto balance feature on this new gear is probably gonna be real helpful, for more a novice like me.


----------



## ddude003

Impact Blue said:


> Not an audiophile here, but currently looking for suggestions on a good 5.1 setup with wireless rear satellites for the ol' LSP9T. Torn between the new Q990B, Sonos Arc, or possibly a dedicated AV setup that can support wireless (?) if that's a thing. Preferably under 2k in total, for a small space. Thanks!


I would start with a 5.1 or 7.1 AVR like the Yamaha RX-V6A and add some speakers especially a center speaker... Build out from there as budget allows...


----------



## mpa4712

avsscientist said:


> For those not wanting to spend so much money on the HDfury Vertex2, this is just to share that I am successfully getting LLDV on LSP9T using the "lowly" Arcana.
> 
> It doesn't have all the fancy features of the Vertex2 but it does make the LSP9T play DoVi titles.
> 
> Here are the settings:
> 
> HDR sub-menu:
> 
> LLDV Sync: On
> 
> LLDV>HDR sub-menu:
> 
> Primaries: BT2020 (DCI-P3 produces some weird colors)
> Min Luminance: 0
> Max Luminance: 10000
> LLDV Support: On
> 
> Hope this information helps someone save a few bucks
> 
> * additionally, Hdfury from time to time releases discount coupons, so watch out for those.


How does it look?


----------



## Salker

Halo at its best 😡


----------



## coug7669

Dave Harper said:


> It is. It’s called the “Pond of Mirrors”. It’s a normal thing with DLPs.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.ti.com/lit/an/dlpa104/dlpa104.pdf?ts=1655296890677&ref_url=https%253A%252F%252Fwww.google.com%252F
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://support.seenebula.com/s/article/Why-a-Black-Border-Exists-Around-the-Image-Projected-by-a-Nebula-Projector





Salker said:


> Halo at its best 😡
> 
> View attachment 3307946


It is normal for all DLP chipsets as David replied.


----------



## Artcore

ddude003 said:


> I have a LSP7T in use with an Elite Screens Fixed CLR3 103 inch in my living room... Pretty good in daylight with some light control via Venetian blinds... Stunningly beautiful at night with some low level ambient light... Jumps into your face in total darkness... Maybe I should wear some cheap sunglasses...


Thanks for sharing. Do you have any idea about the differences between the CLR - and the CLR3? And do you use without the borders?


----------



## Dave Harper

coug7669 said:


> It is normal for all DLP chipsets as David replied.


From what I understand all DLPs MUST have this. It’s just a matter of how much you can see them on each projector.


----------



## ddude003

Artcore said:


> Thanks for sharing. Do you have any idea about the differences between the CLR - and the CLR3? And do you use without the borders?


I believe the CLR material is 95% light rejecting while the CLR3 is 90%... I also think the gain is different... CLR3 is 0.6 while the CLR might be 0.8 or 1.0... Best to go to the Elite Screens website and look for yourself... Not sure what you mean about using without the boarders... You can align the image to fit the screen perfectly (physically move and adjust & built in setup and adjustment software)... Although it does take some time and effort to get it right...


----------



## JoeBoy73

Dave Harper said:


> From what I understand all DLPs MUST have this. It’s just a matter of how much you can see them on each projector.


Thanks for the information Dave...seriously considering UST. Any thoughts, on which PJ might have the least prominent border? Not sure if this would help, but maybe putting up black velvet behind the UST screen to absorb the halo?


----------



## Dave Harper

Velvet would definitely help.


----------



## newtophoto

anyone able to share their full picture settings?


----------



## avsenthusiast

mpa4712 said:


> How does it look?


I don't have a HDfury Vertex2 to compared, but DoVi-capable titles on the Arcana do have more "pop" or microcontrast than in regular HDR10 only. 

Overall a more pleasing experience, but it's not "eye-opening" because I was already used to the HDR10+ titles from Amazon Prime that are supported by the native Prime app, they perform at similar levels. 

Hope this helps.


----------



## avsenthusiast

newtophoto said:


> anyone able to share their full picture settings?


*HDR*
Movie
Warm2
ST.2084 +3
Shadow -3
HDR
Contrast 45

RG 10
GG 0
BG 18
RO 11
GO 0
BO 2

*SDR*
Movie
Warm2
Contrast 41
BT.1886 +3
Shadow -3
RG 7
GG 0
BG 13
RO -2
GO 0
BO 9


----------



## Lord Avenger

avsscientist said:


> Movie
> Warm2
> 
> HDR
> Contrast 45
> RG 10
> GG 0
> BG 18
> RO 11
> GO 0
> BO 2
> 
> SDR
> Contrast 41
> RG 7
> GG 0
> BG 13
> RO -2
> GO 0
> BO 9


Do you have a completely dark room setting or watch with ambient light? What are you respective gamma and black level settings?

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## avsenthusiast

Lord Avenger said:


> Do you have a completely dark room setting or watch with ambient light? What are you respective gamma and black level settings?


I usually watch in completely dark room.

Just added my gamma and shadow settings above. I suspect the color balance is different for individual units so not sure it’s much use. But everything else brings out the “pop” of this projector, along with the DoVi-enabling Arcana 🙂


----------



## Lord Avenger

avsscientist said:


> I usually watch in completely dark room.
> 
> Just added my gamma and shadow settings above. I suspect the color balance is different for individual units so not sure it’s much use. But everything else brings out the “pop” of this projector, along with the DoVi-enabling Arcana


What did you use to calibrate color? Also, please let me know if there is a recommendation for color space. 

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## avsenthusiast

Lord Avenger said:


> What did you use to calibrate color? Also, please let me know if there is a recommendation for color space.


For calibration, I use HCFR and i1D Pro. 

For color space, I set to Custom > BT2020 which seems to have the most natural colors in HDR and Custom > Rec.709 when in SDR. Sometimes if I jump back and forth between SDR and HDR shows, I don't know if the Shield Pro or LSP9T would get confused and get the color spaces mixed up, so I usually have to go into Custom to make sure colors are set by the projectors correctly.


----------



## Artcore

Do any of you with a unit with the color shifting/white balance issue see a decrease in the error with the latest software update?


----------



## avsenthusiast

Artcore said:


> Do any of you with a unit with the color shifting/white balance issue see a decrease in the error with the latest software update?


I was hoping it would be the case, but unfortunately the answer is no, the issue persists.


----------



## leb2nv

my projector just updated to firmware version 2303.1 just wish Samsung would tell us what features/fixes these updates add!


----------



## ProfByron

leb2nv said:


> my projector just updated to firmware version 2303.1 just wish Samsung would tell us what features/fixes these updates add!


Agreed. Have you noticed anything?


----------



## Lord Avenger

ProfByron said:


> Agreed. Have you noticed anything?


I updated yesterday, nothing obvious on the pic quality. The color shift issue still exists. I run in Game Mode with Vertex2. Have not tested other modes after the update. I went through the menus as well to see if anything changed. Could not spot anything obvious. 

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## hanks

SaulP said:


> I was unable to find anything “off the shelf” that I liked. So, I am having a custom cabinet built for my LSP9T that will hold the unit, the screen, the LCR speakers and receiver/amp/Apple TV. I decided to go with a 110” screen because it works better in my room. Once the design is finished I will probably share it here.


Did you get ever get the cabinet built? I am thinking of doing the same.


----------



## Impact Blue

I dunno if this will be helpful to anyone, but I recently got a 2020/1 Nvidia Shield Pro and holy crap...my user experience is SO so much better. Apps, menus, and video files load very quickly, access to a 'real' google app store is so cool, being able to side-load apps, fast external HD reads, and Ai upscaling (I also wonder if there is color management in this thing, bc it seems much better), and having less ad space - it's taken so much underwhelming stock features out of this unit. Overall, it is an incredible purchase if you can find one. If there is one gripe, it's the remote: it's not as intuitive in the hand, and it takes some learning not to press the GIANT netflix button on the bottom for volume control.

Still adapting, but so far zero regrets on the purchase.


----------



## ACE844

Impact Blue said:


> I dunno if this will be helpful to anyone, but I recently got a 2020/1 Nvidia Shield Pro and holy crap...my user experience is SO so much better. Apps, menus, and video files load very quickly, access to a 'real' google app store is so cool, being able to side-load apps, fast external HD reads, and Ai upscaling (I also wonder if there is color management in this thing, bc it seems much better), and having less ad space - it's taken so much underwhelming stock features out of this unit. Overall, it is an incredible purchase if you can find one. If there is one gripe, it's the remote: it's not as intuitive in the hand, and it takes some learning not to press the GIANT netflix button on the bottom for volume control.
> 
> Still adapting, but so far zero regrets on the purchase.


There is color management, you can go in to the display preferences and then select custom display and it will bring upvarious options for you to choose based on the reported capabilities of your display


----------



## avsenthusiast

Impact Blue said:


> I dunno if this will be helpful to anyone, but I recently got a 2020/1 Nvidia Shield Pro and holy crap...my user experience is SO so much better. Apps, menus, and video files load very quickly, access to a 'real' google app store is so cool, being able to side-load apps, fast external HD reads, and Ai upscaling (I also wonder if there is color management in this thing, bc it seems much better), and having less ad space - it's taken so much underwhelming stock features out of this ....


I love the Shield Pro as much as you do, but unfortunately it still doesn't support HDR10+ yet, please upvote if you get a chance https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforc...858/possibility-of-hdr10-support/?topicPage=8


----------



## Oktomoko

Guys, I am now in Korea for a short trip and have a chance to get the LSP9T significantly cheaper here than in my home country. The model is obviously for the Korean market though: SP-LSTP9AFXKR. Does anybody have any experience if there are any drawbacks? Like no possibility to switch to English or Netflix or Disney+ or whatever locks?


----------



## g.j.martin

Hey guys, not an owner “yet” but I’m looking into pulling the trigger on the LSP9T . I have a living room setup some ambient light from a slider window on the right and it’s an open space so I have some other ambient light coming from other rooms but not much. I plan on getting some motorized drop down blackout shades as well. Wife didnt want the massive JVC projector I demoed in the living room hanging from the ceiling so that got scratched. I also thought about an 83-85” OLED/mini-led but I already have a 77 OLED and feel like the 5-7k I would spend on that for just 6” isn’t worth it.

Leads me here, I want 120” I have 10FT ceiling but I am confused as to whether I need a CLR or ALR screen? I hear so many difference reviews with each. Also, I have a pretty large center channel B&W HTM2D3 which I have to figure out a media console with a large enough center space I can stick it in (opened of course).Any recommendations on screen? How high off the floor do I need to be?

thanks!!!


----------



## hanks

@g.j.martin Go with a Vividstorm 120" rising ust alr screen (110" pictured below). This is full daylight through 15ft doors on the right. Were getting a custom console made to house the screen box and the projector so everything can be hidden, as well as some motorized drapes. During the day its acceptable, but at night it's amazing. 

WAF was the only way I was able to sell this to my wife. "Imagine hiding the TV and you can put a big piece of art on the wall!" she loved that idea.


----------



## g.j.martin

avsscientist said:


> I wonder if a screen like this would pair perfectly with LSP9T? What do you all think? 120'' EluneVision Reference 8K Motorized Short Throw ALR Projection Screen - Eastporters Audio Video





hanks said:


> @g.j.martin Go with a Vividstorm 120" rising ust alr screen (110" pictured below). This is full daylight through 15ft doors on the right. Were getting a custom console made to house the screen box and the projector so everything can be hidden, as well as some motorized drapes. During the day its acceptable, but at night it's amazing.
> 
> WAF was the only way I was able to sell this to my wife. "Imagine hiding the TV and you can put a big piece of art on the wall!" she loved that idea.
> 
> View attachment 3317150


Retractable screen is a no go. Need fixed, that being said just set it up today, at night, about 103” on light gray wall and not thrilled with picture… I can see all the small textures on the wall, Lot more than with a JVC NP5 I also have to demo. Also light on in another room stated to wash our image. Will a screen fix that? And by screen I mean not a ~3,000 one😆.


----------



## MDesigns

Salker said:


> Halo at its best 😡
> 
> View attachment 3307946


Black out the wall behind the screen to get rid of the halo. I am more disturbed about the grey blacks that you cant do anything about. Contrast looks pretty subpar unfortunately.


----------



## g.j.martin

MDesigns said:


> Black out the wall behind the screen to get rid of the halo. I am more disturbed about the grey blacks that you cant do anything about. Contrast looks pretty subpar unfortunately.


Omg that looks terrible! Yeah I noticed the contrast is pretty subpar as well. The bars are pretty much gray, wouldn’t the CLR dark grey screen help??


----------



## MDesigns

g.j.martin said:


> Omg that looks terrible! Yeah I noticed the contrast is pretty subpar as well. The bars are pretty much gray, wouldn’t the CLR dark grey screen help??


If you go dark enough screen the blacks will of course be better, but at the same the whites and whole picture get dimmer too. It doesn't help with the actual contrast in a darkened room.


----------



## g.j.martin

MDesigns said:


> If you go dark enough screen the blacks will of course be better, but at the same the whites and whole picture get dimmer too. It doesn't help with the actual contrast in a darkened room.


I see, well my room isn’t darkened. I mean like the walls are a light/medium gray, white ceilings, I have a slider glass window to the right (they have blinds, will be adding some blackout motorized as well). So I was thinking the Elite aeon CLR3 from Amazon. 103”


----------



## MDesigns

g.j.martin said:


> I see, well my room isn’t darkened. I mean like the walls are a light/medium gray, white ceilings, I have a slider glass window to the right (they have blinds, will be adding some blackout motorized as well). So I was thinking the Elite aeon CLR3 from Amazon. 103”


I meant darkened as in no lights on and windows and other ambient light blocked. ALR/CLR screens help with ambient light but can't really help with projectors contrast issues in good dark watching conditions.


----------



## g.j.martin

MDesigns said:


> I meant darkened as in no lights on and windows and other ambient light blocked. ALR/CLR screens help with ambient light but can't really help with projectors contrast issues in good dark watching conditions.


So I’m better off with the JVC projector and an ALR in this scenario? Although I feel that the LSp9T has faired better just on the wall with the ambient light, probably due to about 900 more lumens and the sheer nature that it doesn’t have to project across a room.


----------



## MDesigns

g.j.martin said:


> So I’m better off with the JVC projector and an ALR in this scenario? Although I feel that the LSp9T has faired better just on the wall with the ambient light, probably due to about 900 more lumens and the sheer nature that it doesn’t have to project across a room.


It depends on preferences. If you watch with ambient light the Samsung is probably better. I don't like projection with ambient light, I need the best blacks. So my choice would be TV for day use and projection only in a dark space. With a JVC, Sony or maybe Epson projector with enough contrast. Though UST DLP's are making the biggest steps forward with the technology right now so who knows when those go past the traditional ones also on contrast. Color they already have passed those with RGB lasers.


----------



## Dawn Gordon

hanks said:


> @g.j.martin Go with a Vividstorm 120" rising ust alr screen (110" pictured below). This is full daylight through 15ft doors on the right. Were getting a custom console made to house the screen box and the projector so everything can be hidden, as well as some motorized drapes. During the day its acceptable, but at night it's amazing.
> 
> WAF was the only way I was able to sell this to my wife. "Imagine hiding the TV and you can put a big piece of art on the wall!" she loved that idea.
> 
> View attachment 3317150


Motorized drapes are great. Good companies to look at for the motorized track are Lutron and Somfy.


----------



## Jordan-C

Can anyone let me know where the option is to turn off the start up chime/sound (sound that plays when the projector boots up from standby). I have done a factory reset and the option seems to have disappeared from my settings. Software version 2303.


----------



## OncelUmutTurer

Is there a way to dim the projector light like the ones in TV settings? At nights sometimes it feels very bright especially when I'm sleepy and the bright white images hurts my eyes. I couldn't find a way to dim the light (except the gamma options which can only dim the light slightly).


----------



## hanks

g.j.martin said:


> Retractable screen is a no go. Need fixed, that being said just set it up today, at night, about 103” on light gray wall and not thrilled with picture… I can see all the small textures on the wall, Lot more than with a JVC NP5 I also have to demo. Also light on in another room stated to wash our image. Will a screen fix that? And by screen I mean not a ~3,000 one😆.


Since the throw is at such a steep angle you will see all the weird textures on the wall without a flat screen. You absolutely needs a ust ALR screen if you are getting an UST projector or it will be terrible with any exterior light hitting the wall. Being closer to the wall isn't as much of a difference between the samsung and the JVC. Essentially lumens per sq in. is what you are looking at and the extra 900 lumens is quite a bit. An ALR screen with the JVC would help as well.


----------



## hanks

OncelUmutTurer said:


> Is there a way to dim the projector light like the ones in TV settings? At nights sometimes it feels very bright especially when I'm sleepy and the bright white images hurts my eyes. I couldn't find a way to dim the light (except the gamma options which can only dim the light slightly).


Unfortunately the laser cannot be dimmed on the Samsung.
see below response. Had no idea this was in there.


----------



## Lord Avenger

OncelUmutTurer said:


> Is there a way to dim the projector light like the ones in TV settings? At nights sometimes it feels very bright especially when I'm sleepy and the bright white images hurts my eyes. I couldn't find a way to dim the light (except the gamma options which can only dim the light slightly).


There is a way to connect your projector with Samsung Smartthings App. In the App you will find an option to detect and set auto brightness per Ambient light as detected by the projector. 

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## hanks

Lord Avenger said:


> There is a way to connect your projector with Samsung Smartthings App. In the App you will find an option to detect and set auto brightness per Ambient light as detected by the projector.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


Why do they hide this feature?! Do you know if you have to set it every time for different lighting conditions? Or Is it really auto brightness set it and forget it.


----------



## Lord Avenger

hanks said:


> Why do they hide this feature?! Do you know if you have to set it every time for different lighting conditions? Or Is it really auto brightness set it and forget it.


It's auto detect. The UI is not the most intuitive. Let me know if this worked for your lighting conditions and eye relief.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## hanks

Lord Avenger said:


> It's auto detect. The UI is not the most intuitive. Let me know if this worked for your lighting conditions and eye relief.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


I tried this last night and it certainly toned things down. It helped the blacks without crushing them, and the halo around the screen was much less prominent.


----------



## Lord Avenger

Folks, anyone outputting 24p video successfully for streaming apps on XBox Series X. The 24p switch in the settings works only for bluray movies. Roku Ultra does this, not sure why xbsx outputs only 60.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Wheres3d

Lord Avenger said:


> Folks, anyone outputting 24p video successfully for streaming apps on XBox Series X. The 24p switch in the settings works only for bluray movies. Roku Ultra does this, not sure why xbsx outputs only 60.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


You could try editing the source type and telling it your Xbox is a blu-ray player or home Cinema system 
Go to source move up , across to your source up again to edit


----------



## Lord Avenger

Wheres3d said:


> You could try editing the source type and telling it your Xbox is a blu-ray player or home Cinema system
> Go to source move up , across to your source up again to edit


Wheres3d, where are you proposing this change be made? In the Receiver? Or in the projector? Can you please specify the steps?

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## QCarb

Lord Avenger said:


> There is a way to connect your projector with Samsung Smartthings App. In the App you will find an option to detect and set auto brightness per Ambient light as detected by the projector.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


Hey there. Would you have a picture of where to find this feature? I couldn't find it so far on smartthings. Thanks a lot!


----------



## Wheres3d

Lord Avenger said:


> Wheres3d, where are you proposing this change be made? In the Receiver? Or in the projector? Can you please specify the steps?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


On the projector , press home , move to source , move up , go along to your source , move up , select edit and choose blu-ray or home Cinema system


----------



## Wheres3d

QCarb said:


> Hey there. Would you have a picture of where to find this feature? I couldn't find it so far on smartthings. Thanks a lot!


Open the app choose your projector , 3 dot menu top right , below update info , this will also give you the amount of hours used which I couldn't find on the pj itself hope this helps

Done this from memory will check later but you should find it 

Edit 2 , btw I think the ambient light is actually detected by your phone not the projector as previously said


----------



## Lord Avenger

Wheres3d said:


> On the projector , press home , move to source , move up , go along to your source , move up , select edit and choose blu-ray or home Cinema system


Where3D, thanks. Does this change the way the projector sees the source? Or does it help just segregate different sources be categorizing the source type by name only?

If former, what would be those characteristics that the projector will look for and adjust accordingly? For example, if I choose BluRay as the source type, would the projector adjust its behavior accordingly?

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Wheres3d

Lord Avenger said:


> Where3D, thanks. Does this change the way the projector sees the source? Or does it help just segregate different sources be categorizing the source type by name only?
> 
> If former, what would be those characteristics that the projector will look for and adjust accordingly? For example, if I choose BluRay as the source type, would the projector adjust its behavior accordingly?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


I think it reacts to a game machine or PC by turning off any unnecessary processing and grey's out a few options assuming you are going to be gaming , so you lose some settings for watching movies , if you select home Cinema the options are available again .


----------



## lakersfreak

anyone know what the last update for?


----------



## avsenthusiast

lakersfreak said:


> anyone know what the last update for?


Not sure what was updated as there was no change log as usual, but it did screw up my previous calibration again. It seems Samsung keeps tweaking the colors with each update. 

But it does get rid of the red over-saturation found in some darker scenes. Not perfect, but better than last firmware.


----------



## Lord Avenger

avsscientist said:


> Not sure what was updated as there was no change log as usual, but it did screw up my previous calibration again. It seems Samsung keeps tweaking the colors with each update.
> 
> But it does get rid of the red over-saturation found in some darker scenes. Not perfect, but better than last firmware.


What's the firmware version after the upgrade? 

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Jamesy74

While watching Disney+ I found Obi-Wan a bit stuttery and this morning decided to try Ookla on the Tizen internet webpage. This told be I was only getting between 30-50MBs over wifi. We have a pretty solid Network at home and can get 80MBs+ in most locations. Wired, it's in the 97-100MBs range. I connected it with a network cable straight to the router and this didn't improve the situation. Any thoughts? Could it just be the browser reporting a slow speed while the Apps are getting a better rate? I did a system cleanup and emptied the cache etc.


----------



## mbosse318

Hi all. I'm new to this forum. I have had a Samsung LSP9T for about 10 months and have been really enjoying it. A couple of days ago, the display started showing a "cloud" of black and white pixels. I don't know how else to describe it. See pics. I've contacted Samsung support and hopefully they will repair or replace the unit. Has anyone else ever experienced this? I want to see if anyone disagrees with my assessment that this is indeed a problem with the projector and something Samsung should repair under warranty. I've made sure it's running the latest software (2303) and I did a reset, but that did not improve the picture. Thanks for any feedback.


----------



## Dave Harper

That looks like what happens with bad or under spec’d HDMI cables. Try changing the HDMI cable or use a different HDMI input to see if it follows. If it does maybe the HDMI input board is bad.


----------



## mbosse318

Dave Harper said:


> That looks like what happens with bad or under spec’d HDMI cables. Try changing the HDMI cable or use a different HDMI input to see if it follows. If it does maybe the HDMI input board is bad.


Hi Dave. Thanks for the quick reply. No HDMI cable is attached. This is straight up menus from the projector itself. None of the inputs are in use. The uploaded images are part of the built-in Picture Test feature in the projector settings.


----------



## Dave Harper

mbosse318 said:


> Hi Dave. Thanks for the quick reply. No HDMI cable is attached. This is straight up menus from the projector itself. None of the inputs are in use. The uploaded images are part of the built-in Picture Test feature in the projector settings.


OK wow. Then maybe it’s the DMD chip or driver itself? Definitely needs serviced!


----------



## nordicgod1

Hi anyone getting problems with the Amazon prime app built into pj , I have been playing the Arsenal program and every so often the screen goes blank for like half a second about 7 or 8 times whilst sound still Plays , then ok for 20 mins then does it again . No probs on any other app like Disney plus or Netflix


----------



## Dave Harper

I think maybe Amazon’s app just sucks. People are also complaint about it on the AppleTV a lot lately. I hardly use it.


----------



## ProfByron

Dave Harper said:


> I think maybe Amazon’s app just sucks. People are also complaint about it on the AppleTV a lot lately. I hardly use it.


I believe that they released an update last week.

I also believe that Amazon use HDR10+ a lot, so that should look good on the LSP9T... but it doesn't, I don't know why.


----------



## ProfByron

ProfByron said:


> I believe that they released an update last week.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon's Redesigned Prime Video App Now Available for Apple TV
> 
> 
> Amazon today updated its Prime Video app for the Apple TV with a redesigned interface that looks similar to other streaming service apps. ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.macrumors.com


----------



## avsenthusiast

ProfByron said:


> I also believe that Amazon use HDR10+ a lot, so that should look good on the LSP9T... but it doesn't, I don't know why.


Prime's HDR10+ really shines on LSP9T. Watching Hanna on Shield Pro (up to HDR10 support only), since it has a lot of dark scenes, everything just looks muddy and dark. But switching to Prime's native HDR10+ support, the image comes to life with much better macro and microcontrast.

My HDfury Arcana does deliver LLDV to LSP9T but I am seeing much better contrast and colors with native HDR10+ titles than LLDV shows. I guess nothing beats the native HDR support.

The most objective test is to have A/B comparison side by side of the same video that is available in both LLDV (via HDfury) and HDR10+, but without that, my impression is, HDR10+ performance on LSP9T still beats LLDV via HDfury.


----------



## ProfByron

avsscientist said:


> Prime's HDR10+ really shines on LSP9T. Watching Hanna on Shield Pro (up to HDR10 support only), since it has a lot of dark scenes, everything just looks muddy and dark. But switching to Prime's native HDR10+ support, the image comes to life with much better macro and microcontrast.
> 
> My HDfury Arcana does deliver LLDV to LSP9T but I am seeing much better contrast and colors with native HDR10+ titles than LLDV shows. I guess nothing beats the native HDR support.
> 
> The most objective test is to have A/B comparison side by side of the same video that is available in both LLDV (via HDfury) and HDR10+, but without that, my impression is, HDR10+ performance on LSP9T still beats LLDV via HDfury.


So do you use the LSP9T in-built app to watch Prime? 

I have AppleTV going into HDfury then to LSP9T (in Game Mode). Is there a way of telling the HDfury to send the HDR10+ metadata through? Because at the moment I believe that the EDID tells the AppleTV that it's connected to a DolbyVision capable TV, not an HDR10+ TV.


----------



## Dave Harper

avsscientist said:


> Prime's HDR10+ really shines on LSP9T. Watching Hanna on Shield Pro (up to HDR10 support only), since it has a lot of dark scenes, everything just looks muddy and dark. But switching to Prime's native HDR10+ support, the image comes to life with much better macro and microcontrast.
> 
> My HDfury Arcana does deliver LLDV to LSP9T but I am seeing much better contrast and colors with native HDR10+ titles than LLDV shows. I guess nothing beats the native HDR support.
> 
> The most objective test is to have A/B comparison side by side of the same video that is available in both LLDV (via HDfury) and HDR10+, but without that, my impression is, HDR10+ performance on LSP9T still beats LLDV via HDfury.


What is the source for LLDV? Is it converted HDR10 to LLDV or is it native Dolby Vision material, which would be a more fair comparison since both employ dynamic metadata. 



ProfByron said:


> So do you use the LSP9T in-built app to watch Prime?
> 
> I have AppleTV going into HDfury then to LSP9T (in Game Mode). Is there a way of telling the HDfury to send the HDR10+ metadata through? Because at the moment I believe that the EDID tells the AppleTV that it's connected to a DolbyVision capable TV, not an HDR10+ TV.


If you use Automix Mode it uses the EDID from the display that’s connected to it and mixes it with the info you check off under that section, so yea it should let the source see it’s HDR10+ capable.


----------



## ProfByron

Dave Harper said:


> If you use Automix Mode it uses the EDID from the display that’s connected to it and mixes it with the info you check off under that section, so yea it should let the source see it’s HDR10+ capable.


Of course, I realised after posting that the Apple TV doesn't support HDR10+ yet. Though rumours are that it will be announced next week either for the current 4k (2021) model, or for a new model.

So for now, the only way to see Amazon Primes's HDR10+ material on the LSP9T is the use the in-built Prime app on the projector. Which, annoyingly, probably means having to adjust the projector settings (ie not use Game mode) when using this app rather than the AppleTV/HDFury.


----------



## Lord Avenger

What do you all recommend for lsp9t lens cleaning?

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## bennutt

ProfByron said:


> Of course, I realised after posting that the Apple TV doesn't support HDR10+ yet. Though rumours are that it will be announced next week either for the current 4k (2021) model, or for a new model.
> 
> So for now, the only way to see Amazon Primes's HDR10+ material on the LSP9T is the use the in-built Prime app on the projector. Which, annoyingly, probably means having to adjust the projector settings (ie not use Game mode) when using this app rather than the AppleTV/HDFury.


If you just _enable the Beta mode_ on your Apple TV, as of version 16, beta 4 - HDR10+ support is there. It has also solved an annoying Netflix speaker crack issue when using Dolby Atmos.


----------



## Dave Harper

Lord Avenger said:


> What do you all recommend for lsp9t lens cleaning?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


LensPen which can be bought from Amazon or Best Buy.


----------



## Lord Avenger

Dave Harper said:


> LensPen which can be bought from Amazon or Best Buy.


Thank you Dave!

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

Lord Avenger said:


> Thank you Dave!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


You’re welcome! Do NOT get a cheap knock off. They’re junk and literally fall apart the first time you use them! The one at BB is a good one. Be careful on Amazon.


----------



## Lord Avenger

Dave Harper said:


> You’re welcome! Do NOT get a cheap knock off. They’re junk and literally fall apart the first time you use them! The one at BB is a good one. Be careful on Amazon.


Understood. Ordered one from Amazon, bought from the Lenspen store. Hopefully it's legit. It's coming today.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## nsaeey

noticed a weird issue... I have my speakers connected via optical audio out. It works fine on spotify/netflix/youtube, but on disney+ no sound is played when optical audio is selected. Instead, I have to select projector speaker and both the projector and my speakers are playing at the same time (one has a slight lag so I can hear the obvious echo with both on). Muting the projector speakers work but the muted sign keeps popping up which is an annoyance. Any ideas on how to resolve this?


----------



## Lord Avenger

Who here has explored the Filmmaker mode and fully satisfied for your streaming needs vis Netflix, Hulu, Disney+ etc? Any pros and cons with Game mode?

I currently use Game mode. It works well. But it feels like I am not using an important feature of my projector and I don't know if I am missing anything. Thank you.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


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## Wheres3d

nsaeey said:


> noticed a weird issue... I have my speakers connected via optical audio out. It works fine on spotify/netflix/youtube, but on disney+ no sound is played when optical audio is selected. Instead, I have to select projector speaker and both the projector and my speakers are playing at the same time (one has a slight lag so I can hear the obvious echo with both on). Muting the projector speakers work but the muted sign keeps popping up which is an annoyance. Any ideas on how to resolve this?


Try turning your projector volume to minimum without muting , should still get audio from optical


----------



## nsaeey

Wheres3d said:


> Try turning your projector volume to minimum without muting , should still get audio from optical


yeap that'll have to suffice for now.


----------



## Lord Avenger

Is there any other way to adjust focus for lsp9t other than using the internal focus feature. Are there any recommendations on how to achieve the best focus?

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Lord Avenger

Also, what is a recommended way to figure out where the 1886 or 2084 gamma sliders should be? I have them at 0 and set everything around it. But I don't know if that is where it should be according to those who have done it properly. Thank you folks.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Wheres3d

Lord Avenger said:


> Is there any other way to adjust focus for lsp9t other than using the internal focus feature. Are there any recommendations on how to achieve the best focus?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


The only way to get focus adjustment is when you're in the settings so no other way , always count how many steps you go left and right so you know where you started , go all the way one way so it's way out and then dial it back in the other way . And if you wear glasses like me , best to get someone else to do it. Probably best to let it warm up for half hour or so before attempting it as well. hope this helps


----------



## Dave Harper

Lord Avenger said:


> Is there any other way to adjust focus for lsp9t other than using the internal focus feature. Are there any recommendations on how to achieve the best focus?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


The only other thing that affects focus is the initial physical set up. You just have to make sure that the projector is plumb and perpendicular to the screen in all directions so that it throws the expected image to the top, bottom and all four corners at the distance it was designed to be. Once that is done then the only other adjustment is the electronic focus in the menus as far as I am aware.



Lord Avenger said:


> Also, what is a recommended way to figure out where the 1886 or 2084 gamma sliders should be? I have them at 0 and set everything around it. But I don't know if that is where it should be according to those who have done it properly. Thank you folks.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


The only true way to know is by using a meter and software to measure it to make sure that it follows the expected gamma or PQ curve.


----------



## avsenthusiast

bennutt said:


> If you just _enable the Beta mode_ on your Apple TV, as of version 16, beta 4 - HDR10+ support is there. It has also solved an annoying Netflix speaker crack issue when using Dolby Atmos.


TV OS 16 Final just got released today, could someone with Apple TV 4K confirm that HDR10+ support is kept and not removed?

If HDR10+ support is there, I may have to switch to Apple TV from Shield Pro for HDR shows. Getting tired of switching between Prime on LSP9T (to get HDR10+) and Netflix on Shield Pro (to get LLDV via HDfury).

PS. the following report seems concerning:



> *HDR10+ support*
> The latest generation of high dynamic range technology is now supported in the Apple TV app. *Update:* Apple has removed all references to HDR10+ so we are not sure if this is coming with tvOS 16 or a later update.


----------



## SaulP

I‘ve finally had a chance to unbox and set up my LSP9T and have a quick question. Is there a protective, removable film over the lens? Obviously, there’s a clear wrapper around the PJ itself, but it didn’t cover the lens area, so I thought there might be a very clear screen-protector-like film over the lens.


----------



## Lord Avenger

SaulP said:


> I‘ve finally had a chance to unbox and set up my LSP9T and have a quick question. Is there a protective, removable film over the lens? Obviously, there’s a clear wrapper around the PJ itself, but it didn’t cover the lens area, so I thought there might be a very clear screen-protector-like film over the lens.


There was none on mine. The lasers make the screen so hot that any plastic would be a burn hazard. I don't think they would put it, just to avoid accidents.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


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## Syed117

Haven't been around for a while. Been using the 9T with a fixed 100 inch screen in a light controlled room. Not some nice ALR screen, but a regular white cheapish and thinking of upgrading to a 123-125 inch screen.

Don't really see a consensus on which fixed screens are best. Should I spend $1500 on an elite screens clr? I definitely want a gray ALR screen for an ultra short throw right? I've been pretty happy with this cheap screen the last two years or whatever it's been. The ceiling above the screen is covered in black velvet so don't get too much light bouncing back compared to a lighter colored ceiling.


----------



## SaulP

Lord Avenger said:


> There was none on mine. The lasers make the screen so hot that any plastic would be a burn hazard. I don't think they would put it, just to avoid accidents.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


Thanks. BTW: getting the geometry correct is no piece of cake. On the other hand, I’m pretty pleased with image out of the box.


----------



## Lord Avenger

Syed117 said:


> Haven't been around for a while. Been using the 9T with a fixed 100 inch screen in a light controlled room. Not some nice ALR screen, but a regular white cheapish and thinking of upgrading to a 123-125 inch screen.
> 
> Don't really see a consensus on which fixed screens are best. Should I spend $1500 on an elite screens clr? I definitely want a gray ALR screen for an ultra short throw right? I've been pretty happy with this cheap screen the last two years or whatever it's been. The ceiling above the screen is covered in black velvet so don't get too much light bouncing back compared to a lighter colored ceiling.


I use Akia 103' CLR bought at the same time as 9T to setup my HT around same time last year. Works great once the physical and calibration aspects are taken care. Cheaper too and its affiliated to Elite screens. I have progressed to a darkened room for 60% from screen to seating addressing the immediate peripheral reflections for my 2 rows. The screen gives great blacks. I have not seen other screens for comparison but others in the forum probably have greater advise. Good luck.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


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## Lord Avenger

SaulP said:


> Thanks. BTW: getting the geometry correct is no piece of cake. On the other hand, I’m pretty pleased with image out of the box.


Ensure you have the latest firmware. The colors have improved quite a bit and I am also not too far from defaults post calibration. 

What to you use under the projector? I use a heavy duty desk riser for height flexibility as my screen has to be at a fixed height. Anyone else use any other innovative ways to gain finer adjustments in height and tilt? I hate the screws at the bottom of lsp9t as they are not easily reachable without lifting the set. I wish they made the screws accessible from the sides.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


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## utdleeds

Lord Avenger said:


> There is a way to connect your projector with Samsung Smartthings App. In the App you will find an option to detect and set auto brightness per Ambient light as detected by the projector.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


I cannot find this anywhere, where is it please?


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## Lord Avenger

utdleeds said:


> I cannot find this anywhere, where is it please?


It gets enabled when the projector is turned on. You can find it in the menu by clicking the 3 dots on the right top after selecting the projector device in SmartThings.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


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## utdleeds

Lord Avenger said:


> It gets enabled when the projector is turned on. You can find it in the menu by clicking the 3 dots on the right top after selecting the projector device in SmartThings.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


I have no such option.

In that menu is
Effortless Login
Edit
remote vibration effect
update data
information
Nothing in any of those options mentions brightness or anything like it?


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## kwenar

utdleeds said:


> I have no such option.
> 
> In that menu is
> Effortless Login
> Edit
> remote vibration effect
> update data
> information
> Nothing in any of those options mentions brightness or anything like it?


yeah i tried to find this feature as well and I can't seem to find it either


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## Wheres3d

kwenar said:


> yeah i tried to find this feature as well and I can't seem to find it either


You need to update data first I think. Btw if you click on information you can see hours of use , couldn't find that in the pj menus.
Edit ;
This is how it should look








Then you click on ambient light detection


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## kwenar

Wheres3d said:


> You need to update data first I think. Btw if you click on information you can see hours of use , couldn't find that in the pj menus.
> Edit ;
> This is how it should look
> View attachment 3334874
> 
> 
> For some reason I don't have that option, maybe because I have a 7 and not 9. I see everything else the same including the use timer
> Then you click on ambient light detection


I don't have that option, maybe because I have the 7 model and not 9


----------



## nsaeey

Syed117 said:


> Haven't been around for a while. Been using the 9T with a fixed 100 inch screen in a light controlled room. Not some nice ALR screen, but a regular white cheapish and thinking of upgrading to a 123-125 inch screen.
> 
> Don't really see a consensus on which fixed screens are best. Should I spend $1500 on an elite screens clr? I definitely want a gray ALR screen for an ultra short throw right? I've been pretty happy with this cheap screen the last two years or whatever it's been. The ceiling above the screen is covered in black velvet so don't get too much light bouncing back compared to a lighter colored ceiling.


I'm using a Vava 120" screen. It was the most cost effective option for me and I'm satisfied with the colours. Haven't seen the pricier screens so can't make any comparisons but I'm not sure how much better an expensive screen can be that would justify the costs compared to the vava screen.


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## carukc

Hello all,

Interesting thread.. There's also of useful information in here!

I have just installed a LSP9T with a Chiq S-CK ALR Black Grid Projection Screen. The install went reasonably well. It's a shame that the Samsung does not seem to passthrough DTS, etc on the optical port.... but I have a gizmo coming that should allow me to get the nice codecs back on my aging AVR. or.. just update my receiver.

I am experiencing another little issue that you guys might be able to help with. I’ve noticed a pronounced warp in the image at the centre top and bottom of the screen. It is almost as if the screen is closer to the wall in the centre top and bottom.

I did think that I might need to raise the projector a bit to resolve this but it’s otherwise perfectly aligned and it's pretty much perfectly 401mm from the bottom of the screen, so I am not sure if this is the way to deal with this.

Has anyone here seen this issue before? What might be causing it? Could it be an issue with the projector lens?


----------



## IntriguedByTech

Hi all,
Hope everyone is doing well.

Is there a way to downgrade firmware of the LSP9T? The latest firmware has caused the color shift issue with subtitles(many have seen in the past) in my unit. The previous FW didn't have this issue on my unit. 
Another question is has someone any experience with the new LG Hu915QB? Is the contrast a significant bump from LSP9T or it is more on paper and less on the perceived contrast to our eyes?


----------



## QCarb

I'm curious to see replies to your post on the firmware even if I'm not holding my breath, as I just noticed the color shift issue on mine and it's driving me nuts.


----------



## Lord Avenger

Any if you new lsp9t owners happen to know what the default picture settings are for game mode? Both SDR and HDR? Please post.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Wheres3d

IntriguedByTech said:


> Hi all,
> Hope everyone is doing well.
> 
> Is there a way to downgrade firmware of the LSP9T? The latest firmware has caused the color shift issue with subtitles(many have seen in the past) in my unit. The previous FW didn't have this issue on my unit.
> Another question is has someone any experience with the new LG Hu915QB? Is the contrast a significant bump from LSP9T or it is more on paper and less on the perceived contrast to our eyes?


Which is the latest firmware , I had a prompt to update a while ago and I'm sure I didn't but I don't get the option anymore , I'm on 2303 now , watched a lot of subtitles lately and looked ok


----------



## avsenthusiast

QCarb said:


> I'm curious to see replies to your post on the firmware even if I'm not holding my breath, as I just noticed the color shift issue on mine and it's driving me nuts.


I'm shocked to hear that units that are previously unaffected are "infected" with the color shift issue after latest firmware. 

My three units have had this problem since Day 1 and no firmwares so far have been able to get rid of it. 

But it gives me hope though to hear that if previously good units can be "damaged" by new firmwares then Samsung may have a way to address all units affected by "reversing" it? 

In any case, if you can't stand the color shift issue, in the interim, try out some of the workaround that I previously posted. Depending on how severe your "defects" are, they may help with the situation a lot.


----------



## John Bu

I have lsp9t working in my kitchen paired with a vividstorm floor rising screen. 

Two things that are really not pleasant are the green spot and the change in color when subtitles appear. 

The green spot was practically removed by adding an ordinary rag from glasses with a cutout for a window with a laser.

But the color change cannot be removed. The problem appears only in SDR mode when using BT.709 gamut. In HDR, the color change problem disappears. I am not an expert, but there is some kind of conflict in the projector system and such a large company as Samsung should take this problem seriously and fix it with a new firmware.

In general, the projector leaves a pleasant impression, but the solution to the color change problem would make it almost perfect.


----------



## John Bu

kwenar said:


> yeah i tried to find this feature as well and I can't seem to find it either


In the app on the iphone, I don't have that option either. Perhaps this is available only to users of Samsung phones and it seems to me that the phone itself determines the level of illumination and transmits it to the projector.


----------



## Lord Avenger

John Bu said:


> I have lsp9t working in my kitchen paired with a vividstorm floor rising screen.
> 
> Two things that are really not pleasant are the green spot and the change in color when subtitles appear.
> 
> The green spot was practically removed by adding an ordinary rag from glasses with a cutout for a window with a laser.
> 
> But the color change cannot be removed. The problem appears only in SDR mode when using BT.709 gamut. In HDR, the color change problem disappears. I am not an expert, but there is some kind of conflict in the projector system and such a large company as Samsung should take this problem seriously and fix it with a new firmware.
> 
> In general, the projector leaves a pleasant impression, but the solution to the color change problem would make it almost perfect.


John, can you send me a closeup of the cloth placement to eat the green glob. Can you please test your placement with a YouTube dimming test. I have done a similar thing. GG shows up in the lower middle part of the screen while showing large bright spots at either left or right bottom of the screen. Appreciate your help.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## avsenthusiast

John Bu said:


> But the color change cannot be removed. The problem appears only in SDR mode when using BT.709 gamut. In HDR, the color change problem disappears. I am not an expert, but there is some kind of conflict in the projector system and such a large company as Samsung should take this problem seriously and fix it with a new firmware.
> 
> In general, the projector leaves a pleasant impression, but the solution to the color change problem would make it almost perfect.


Well, many of us have posted this concern, GIFs, measurement results etc for months or in some cases more than a year, but this issue persists. I would say this is the one reason for anyone considering this projector to not buy it. 

Have you tried changing the opacity of the subtitles? Depending on your playback device, it may reduce the color shift while Samsung is potentially working on a fix (who knows?).


----------



## John Bu

avsscientist said:


> Well, many of us have posted this concern, GIFs, measurement results etc for months or in some cases more than a year, but this issue persists. I would say this is the one reason for anyone considering this projector to not buy it.
> 
> Have you tried changing the opacity of the subtitles? Depending on your playback device, it may reduce the color shift while Samsung is potentially working on a fix (who knows?).


Most of the content that I use on the projector is in HDR and I just don't see this problem. The problem with color change is relevant for youtube and TV shows, which are mostly compressed in SDR. The solution I'm currently using is connecting the projector to an apple tv in 4k HDR with the matching function disabled, i.e. forcing an HDR signal on all content. The picture in SDR is acceptable in this mode, only there is a small problem with laser red saturation, but it's better than watching the color change, which just drives me crazy .


----------



## John Bu

Lord Avenger said:


> John, can you send me a closeup of the cloth placement to eat the green glob. Can you please test your placement with a YouTube dimming test. I have done a similar thing. GG shows up in the lower middle part of the screen while showing large bright spots at either left or right bottom of the screen. Appreciate your help.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


I will check it in the evening and take a photo for you🤝


----------



## Dave Harper

John Bu said:


> Most of the content that I use on the projector is in HDR and I just don't see this problem. The problem with color change is relevant for youtube and TV shows, which are mostly compressed in SDR. The solution I'm currently using is connecting the projector to an apple tv in 4k HDR with the matching function disabled, i.e. forcing an HDR signal on all content. The picture in SDR is acceptable in this mode, only there is a small problem with laser red saturation, but it's better than watching the color change, which just drives me crazy .


It gets even better if you use an HDFury to get LLDV Dolby Vision from the AppleTV and then turn off Match Dynamic Range as you’re doing.


----------



## John Bu

Dave Harper said:


> It gets even better if you use an HDFury to get LLDV Dolby Vision from the AppleTV and then turn off Match Dynamic Range as you’re doing.


Hello Dave! Thanks for your messages in this thread, I have already ordered and waiting my hd fury, I will definitely write about the results.


----------



## John Bu

Lord Avenger said:


> John, can you send me a closeup of the cloth placement to eat the green glob. Can you please test your placement with a YouTube dimming test. I have done a similar thing. GG shows up in the lower middle part of the screen while showing large bright spots at either left or right bottom of the screen. Appreciate your help.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


This is what it looks like on my projector, it helps a lot with the green spot, in some scenes it appears, but much less and less often


----------



## hanks

Someone should create a 3d model so we can print up a black shield.


----------



## Lord Avenger

hanks said:


> Someone should create a 3d model so we can print up a black shield.


Folks, never project a full screen white image with a cloth or something combustible covering the base of the lens too far up while trying to diminish the green glob. Especially if it's touching the glass. It gets very hot and I have seen fumes begin to rise with the cloth or foam burning due to the lasers heating the glass. It's probably ok on regular luminance, but still.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## hanks

Lord Avenger said:


> Folks, never project a full screen white image with a cloth or something combustible covering the base of the lens too far up while trying to diminish the green glob. Especially if it's touching the glass. It gets very hot and I have seen fumes begin to rise with the cloth or foam burning due to the lasers heating the glass. It's probably ok on regular luminance, but still.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


Agree nothing should touch the glass. It would take some design work to get it right. My first thought was to get silicone weather stripping and apply it to the white portion of the case to block the stray light coming off.


----------



## John Bu

hanks said:


> Agree nothing should touch the glass. It would take some design work to get it right. My first thought was to get silicone weather stripping and apply it to the white portion of the case to block the stray light coming off.


this doesn't help, i covered the projector completely in black film, the green spot remains until you cover the glass a bit, only this reduces the effect of the green spot and i had no problems with the heating of the rag


----------



## Lord Avenger

John Bu said:


> this doesn't help, i covered the projector completely in black film, the green spot remains until you cover the glass a bit, only this reduces the effect of the green spot and i had no problems with the heating of the rag


What is this green light a reflection of? Which part? Does someone have a pic to point and show?

John, how wide is your rag length that is resting on the glass?

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


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## John Bu

Lord Avenger said:


> What is this green light a reflection of? Which part? Does someone have a pic to point and show?
> 
> John, how wide is your rag length that is resting on the glass?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


my experiments showed that the projector case does not affect the green spot in any way, I made the projector case completely black with car vinyl film and it had no effect, the problem is inside the laser window, by covering the laser window the green spot effect can be reduced. the more you cover the window, the less the green spot effect becomes, I found a balance in which I managed to blur the green spot as much as possible and not close the laser so that it would be reflected in the image.


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## avsenthusiast

John Bu said:


> ...by covering the laser window the green spot effect can be reduced. the more you cover the window, the less the green spot effect becomes...


I concur. I am using a thick mousepad that protrudes a bit into the glass/plastic window in the central area and it takes care of the green "blob". 

For a $6500 projector, this is kinda embarassing


----------



## John Bu

avsscientist said:


> I concur. I am using a thick mousepad that protrudes a bit into the glass/plastic window in the central area and it takes care of the green "blob".
> 
> For a $6500 projector, this is kinda embarassing


Despite all the unpleasant moments, I can not blame this projector, I like it, it has excellent colors, brightness, it is very comfortable and quiet and, combined with a good screen, makes it comfortable to view in almost any light. I enjoy watching a lot of content on it and less and less turn on my JVC, which is much more expensive and also has its own problems. Of course, Samsung needs to fix these shortcomings and I hope that this will be done.


----------



## avsenthusiast

John Bu said:


> Despite all the unpleasant moments, I can not blame this projector, I like it, it has excellent colors, brightness, it is very comfortable and quiet and, combined with a good screen, makes it comfortable to view in almost any light. I enjoy watching a lot of content on it and less and less turn on my JVC, which is much more expensive and also has its own problems. Of course, Samsung needs to fix these shortcomings and I hope that this will be done.


I cannot agree more, looking at the threads for all recent USTs that came out, all of them have some kind of issues or another. Those that claim DV support (Hisense, looking you) have problematic firmwares one after another. 

So I am very happy with my LSP9T since Day 1 having delivered some truly breathtaking images that scream "wow" especially when watching native HDR10+ or DoVi content via the "lowly" HDfury Arcana. 

The only two gripes left are: 
1. Green Blob
2. Baked-in subtitles and OSD causing color (white balance to be more exact) shift

One last wish (more like wishful thinking) is native DoVi support via future firmwares. I can dream.


----------



## Lord Avenger

avsscientist said:


> I cannot agree more, looking at the threads for all recent USTs that came out, all of them have some kind of issues or another. Those that claim DV support (Hisense, looking you) have problematic firmwares one after another.
> 
> So I am very happy with my LSP9T since Day 1 having delivered some truly breathtaking images that scream "wow" especially when watching native HDR10+ or DoVi content via the "lowly" HDfury Arcana.
> 
> The only two gripes left are:
> 1. Green Blob
> 2. Baked-in subtitles and OSD causing color (white balance to be more exact) shift
> 
> One last wish (more like wishful thinking) is native DoVi support via future firmwares. I can dream.


I too agree. Recent firmware upgrades have improved colors quite a bit. Other improvements to see from my side would be
1. A better focus pattern, screen adjustment pattern (tighter grid)
2. Reachable Keystone adjustment screws on the side without lifting the unit. Auto keystone, if possible, retaining sharpness
3. Better information on received video and audio signal levels

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## rajeevalone

can someone please suggest if vivid storm floor rising screens are any good? I see them going for around 2500 for 120 screen. or there any better options at that price range?


----------



## John Bu

rajeevalone said:


> can someone please suggest if vivid storm floor rising screens are any good? I see them going for around 2500 for 120 screen. or there any better options at that price range?


this is a great screen. in any case, buying this projector without a ALR screen is simply useless.


----------



## rajeevalone

John Bu said:


> this is a great screen. in any case, buying this projector without a ALR screen is simply useless.


can you please let me know the model that you are using? and does the price point seem right?


----------



## John Bu

rajeevalone said:


> can you please let me know the model that you are using? and does the price point seem right?


I have a 100" Vividstorm S PRO Electric Tension Floor Screen With UST ALR (Ultra Short Throw Ambient Light Rejecting). Considering the size of the room, this is the optimal size for me. For the price, you can look at the manufacturer's website, 120 inches costs $1,700, I think this price plus shipping will be fair, no more than $2,000. You can also look at cheaper or more expensive alternatives, the main thing is to choose a model for UST projectors.


----------



## mpa4712

Anyone gone from a 120" screen to something over spec? Maybe a 140" or 150"? I'm building a screen this weekend and I have enough material to go go as high as 160", but I'm worried how the focus will work past the 130" advertised max. Anyone have any insights?


----------



## avsenthusiast

Jordan-C said:


> Can anyone let me know where the option is to turn off the start up chime/sound (sound that plays when the projector boots up from standby). I have done a factory reset and the option seems to have disappeared from my settings. Software version 2303.


Funny enough, this chime just started recently for me too after auto firmware upgrade to 2303. I did a quick dive of the menus but also can't locate the turn off. But I distinctly remember it was there before.


----------



## John Bu

avsscientist said:


> Funny enough, this chime just started recently for me too after auto firmware upgrade to 2303. I did a quick dive of the menus but also can't locate the turn off. But I distinctly remember it was there before.


in the menu Sound - sound feedback you can turn off the sound of the menu and this setting also applies to turning on the projector


----------



## John Bu

I completely stopped understanding anything with this color change. This problem disappeared for me in all view modes. Even when the menu is turned on. I did not change anything in the settings, I checked the updates, also 2303. I can not logically understand what is happening.


----------



## avsenthusiast

John Bu said:


> I completely stopped understanding anything with this color change. This problem disappeared for me in all view modes. Even when the menu is turned on. I did not change anything in the settings, I checked the updates, also 2303. I can not logically understand what is happening.


well, the reason why Samsung is so cagey about their firmware upgrades without ever issuing release notes is because they create illegal AI nano bots to scan for defects and will repair them eventually (sorry, having watched too many sci-fi shows )

on a more serious note, when is the manufacturing date of your unit?


----------



## caustic386

SaulP said:


> I‘ve finally had a chance to unbox and set up my LSP9T and have a quick question. Is there a protective, removable film over the lens? Obviously, there’s a clear wrapper around the PJ itself, but it didn’t cover the lens area, so I thought there might be a very clear screen-protector-like film over the lens.


Just wondering, are you asking because your
lens has some strange pattern or specks on the inside? Mine does, to the extent I feel I should clean it, but I can't figure out how to get it apart and Samsung support never replies to any of my support tickets.


----------



## John Bu

avsscientist said:


> well, the reason why Samsung is so cagey about their firmware upgrades without ever issuing release notes is because they create illegal AI nano bots to scan for defects and will repair them eventually (sorry, having watched too many sci-fi shows )
> 
> on a more serious note, when is the manufacturing date of your unit?


The miracle did not last long. After restarting the projector, the problem repeated. Today I had time to explore the color change problem a bit. It was not completely possible to solve it, but I found a way when it is not visible in 99 percent of cases. In short, the working option is: apple tv in 4k sdr mode, hdmi output is high rgb, in the projector hdmi black level is normal, contrast enhancer is off. It works. I understand that this does not solve the problem completely, but it makes viewing comfortable in sdr mode.


----------



## John Bu

caustic386 said:


> Just wondering, are you asking because your
> lens has some strange pattern or specks on the inside? Mine does, to the extent I feel I should clean it, but I can't figure out how to get it apart and Samsung support never replies to any of my support tickets.


It's not a good idea to clean the inside of the projector window yourself. There may be a protective layer inside that you can damage, and you will not be able to remove dust and dirt that will appear when you open the projector. Let Samsung service solve this problem.


----------



## hanks

mpa4712 said:


> Anyone gone from a 120" screen to something over spec? Maybe a 140" or 150"? I'm building a screen this weekend and I have enough material to go go as high as 160", but I'm worried how the focus will work past the 130" advertised max. Anyone have any insights?


 I brought LOTR The Two Towers to about 155" and had tons of room to spare, it was CRYSTAL CLEAR. One thing to think about is that the blurring happens in the uppermost corners. Since many movies are ~16:9 LOTR was 2.39:1 you are not going to use that upper most corner. I want to cover that entire wall one of these days which is about ~180". As long as you are not doing full frame you should be good. Even then I dont think anyone would notice bluring since its so big.


----------



## avsenthusiast

Quick Poll: Which is your favorite streaming device to use with LSP9T and why?


----------



## ProfByron

avsscientist said:


> Quick Poll: Which is your favorite streaming device to use with LSP9T and why?


Apple TV, quality, and ability to send Dolby Vision.


----------



## The Stoneman

avsscientist said:


> Quick Poll: Which is your favorite streaming device to use with LSP9T and why?


Tried, Sky, Amazon Cube and Shield, Shield better, not tried Apple TV box or new Amazon Cube.
Shield gives a great picture with LLV via Vertex2.


----------



## John Bu

avsscientist said:


> Quick Poll: Which is your favorite streaming device to use with LSP9T and why?


apple tv has been my choice for a very long time, excellent quality in everything. And finally, it makes sense to upgrade to a new model, as HDR10 + support is announced.


----------



## Makabaka_

am2model3 said:


> vividstorm screens are regular or ALR. I am doing non-ALR in light controlled room. Picked it because it is tensioned.


Did you buy their white screen? I noticed that they have white screens as well as ALR screens. I am considering buying their ALR screen. I've heard many people comment that their screen quality is to be believed.


----------



## John Bu

My JVC nz8 is paired with Stewart white screen, it's a very good screen. I tried to connect lspt 9 to this screen, it looks good in complete darkness, there are small problems with black, but they are not critical. With the lights on and in daylight, it's not impressive at all. UST projectors still work perfectly in tandem with a special ALR screen, this is their main charm, you can watch the projector in a well-lit room without any problems. In complete darkness, the difference is not so noticeable, if you are not particularly critical of the black level. And to compare the white screen and ALR is not possible at all, let them be made by one manufacturer.


----------



## avsenthusiast

John Bu said:


> My JVC nz8 is paired with Stewart white screen, it's a very good screen. I tried to connect lspt 9 to this screen, it looks good in complete darkness, there are* small problems with black, but they are not critical. *


Since I have a bat cave and don't watch TV during daytime, I have been using a white screen for my LSP9T. Without an ALR screen to compare, I don't really know what I am missing. 

Could you elaborate on what the "small problems with black" refer to? In your "complete darkness" room, would you still use an ALR screen despite its loss of "brightness" and allegedly more "speckles"?


----------



## avsenthusiast

ProfByron said:


> Apple TV, quality, and ability to send Dolby Vision.


Yes I am eyeing the new Apple TV 4K as it finally supports HDR10+. 

But I am concerned about the lack of Dolby Atmos passthrough to AVR that lots of users on various Apple TV threads are complaining about.


----------



## John Bu

avsscientist said:


> Since I have a bat cave and don't watch TV during daytime, I have been using a white screen for my LSP9T. Without an ALR screen to compare, I don't really know what I am missing.
> 
> Could you elaborate on what the "small problems with black" refer to? In your "complete darkness" room, would you still use an ALR screen despite its loss of "brightness" and allegedly more "speckles"?


The black level when using the ALR screen is better. There are no problems with brightness, it is enough. But again, this is not a very critical difference if you watch the projector in a completely dark room, in the light the difference becomes critical. If I had a completely black room I wouldn't consider the lspt 9 as a movie projector. There are more interesting options. To be honest, this is not exactly a cinema projector. It has problems with chromatic aberration, rainbow effect, black level, spots, picture shaking and so on  That's if I go into detail and compare it with JVC  For me, this is more of a universal projector for watching content with the family in the living room in the light of day and with the lights on, which replaces the huge heavy luminous TV. And in this case, the ALR screen is simply necessary for me, this is the perfect combination. I answered for myself the question “Is it possible to comfortably watch a movie on lspt 9”? It is possible and even necessary, this is a wonderful universal machine.Don't worry too much, just enjoy watching 👍


----------



## avsenthusiast

John Bu said:


> If I had a completely black room I wouldn't consider the lspt 9 as a movie projector. There are more interesting options.


Unfortunately my "bat cave" is not long enough to provide enough throw distance for traditional non-UST projectors to get to 120" and above, so UST is the only option for me to get to that size. I agree, if my room is not length-limited, there are many better projectors without these issues on LSP9T like subtitle color shift, CA, black levels etc that you listed.

Thanks for your insights! Really helpful


----------



## John Bu

avsscientist said:


> Unfortunately my "bat cave" is not long enough to provide enough throw distance for traditional non-UST projectors to get to 120" and above, so UST is the only option for me to get to that size. I agree, if my room is not length-limited, there are many better projectors without these issues on LSP9T like subtitle color shift, CA, black levels etc that you listed.
> 
> Thanks for your insights! Really helpful


Among UST projectors, the lspt 9 performs very well. If you want to improve it a little, you can try to find a piece of gray screen or ALR screen and compare the black level, here's a quick example just compared to a white wall in a completely dark room, look at the difference.


----------



## avsenthusiast

John Bu said:


> Among UST projectors, the lspt 9 performs very well. If you want to improve it a little, you can try to find a piece of gray screen or ALR screen and compare the black level, here's a quick example just compared to a white wall in a completely dark room, look at the difference.


What a nice comparison of the effect of ALR screen against a wall, although I believe my "Elunevision 1.0 gain" screen performs a bit better than the wall. 

Having said that I am ordering a sample pack from Vividstorm so I can see how much contrast it improves.


----------



## John Bu

avsscientist said:


> What a nice comparison of the effect of ALR screen against a wall, although I believe my "Elunevision 1.0 gain" screen performs a bit better than the wall.
> 
> Having said that I am ordering a sample pack from Vividstorm so I can see how much contrast it improves.


Comparison is not entirely accurate, it was a little better on the screen, but the feelings are very similar, the black was not good enough.


----------



## John Bu

If you are confused by the price of Vividstorm, then you can try the ALR screen from XY Screen, you can get a not very high price and very good quality, I won’t even be surprised if they make a screen canvas for Vividstorm, since this is basically the leader in China in the production of screens.


----------



## ProfByron

bennutt said:


> If you just _enable the Beta mode_ on your Apple TV, as of version 16, beta 4 - HDR10+ support is there. It has also solved an annoying Netflix speaker crack issue when using Dolby Atmos.


I think it's only for the new AppleTV (2022 model).


----------



## ABC aka 123

Hi 👋 
Is it at all possible to have a firmware update to have the LSP9T Bluetooth 2 sets of different speakers? 

The Freestyle has this capability and of course came after the LSP9T 

Who at Samsung would I approach to make such a request?

Thanks 😊


----------



## ProfByron

Kid Ulysses said:


> By the way - If anyone has a great custom EDID they know about when using the HDFury Vertex 2 and Apple TV with this projector please share. The ones I have used up to now (Custom EDID 10,9 and 5) aren't quite right. The blues seem CRAZY saturated on them (to the point where it looks weird) and grass sometimes looks really blue/green instead of a natural yellow/green. Custom 10 is about the most realistic but seems a little washed out compared to the others in terms of overall saturation.


Did you get a good custom EDID ?


----------



## newtophoto

anyone have calibrated picture settings for gaming mode?


----------



## Nickal

I just purchased the new 2022 Apple 4k that supports HDR10+. Do I still need the Vertex to optimize the picture? Has anyone created a how to video?


----------



## avsenthusiast

Nickal said:


> I just purchased the new 2022 Apple 4k that supports HDR10+. Do I still need the Vertex to optimize the picture? Has anyone created a how to video?


I also got mine last night but it outputs either DoVi or HDR10+ not supporting both formats at the same time like the Fire Cube 3.

So all HDfury owmers will lose DoVi if you switch output mode to HDR10+. Of course if you don’t mind the constant deep diving of menus, switching output format, waiting for handshaking, but I am not sure who wants to be subjected to this kind of experience.

Nice try, Apple, by including HDR10+ but you failed in implementation. 

This assumes they can fix the issue of sound coming out of one channel only, and this morning after overnight it wouldn’t boot up or send HDMI signal out. Power cycling makes no difference.

This thing really is not ready for Prime time…lol


----------



## John Bu

Nickal said:


> I just purchased the new 2022 Apple 4k that supports HDR10+. Do I still need the Vertex to optimize the picture? Has anyone created a how to video?


If you plan to watch movies in dolby vision format, then you need Vertex, since lspt9 does not support this format. There is no point in expecting native support in the future, since this is a war of formats and Samsung will never add DoVi, so Vertex is the only way to watch DoVi on lspt9.


----------



## ProfByron

Nickal said:


> I just purchased the new 2022 Apple 4k that supports HDR10+. Do I still need the Vertex to optimize the picture? Has anyone created a how to video?


I think that @Dave Harper, the inventor of the Dolby Vision hack (via Vertex), previously said HDR10+ should go straight through to projector.


----------



## avsenthusiast

No it doesn’t on the new ATV 4K G3, at least according to my AVR that supports HDR10+. When the new ATV 4K G3 Output Mode is set to Dolby Vision, the AVR is not getting HDR10+


----------



## Nickal

avsenthusiast said:


> I also got mine last night but it outputs either DoVi or HDR10+ not supporting both formats at the same time like the Fire Cube 3.
> 
> So all HDfury owmers will lose DoVi if you switch output mode to HDR10+. Of course if you don’t mind the constant deep diving of menus, switching output format, waiting for handshaking, but I am not sure who wants to be subjected to this kind of experience.
> 
> Nice try, Apple, by including HDR10+ but you failed in implementation.
> 
> This assumes they can fix the issue of sound coming out of one channel only, and this morning after overnight it wouldn’t boot up or send HDMI signal out. Power cycling makes no difference.
> 
> This thing really is not ready for Prime time…lol


Ok thank you. Sounds like I will still need to buy a Vertex and best to keep Dolby Vision and not HDR10+. If anyone has made a video on how to hook up the Vertex with the Apple TV and Samsung please post!!


----------



## Larry J

Nickal said:


> Ok thank you. Sounds like I will still need to buy a Vertex and best to keep Dolby Vision and not HDR10+. If anyone has made a video on how to hook up the Vertex with the Apple TV and Samsung please post!!


I just put the Vertex as the last thing before the PJ. Everything goes in my AVR and then the Vertex and it works fine. I just found it easier that way instead of trying to use the Vertex inputs. So that way DV gets trigger from any device that has DV to the Samsung. Which I find its a better picture using the Vertex anyway.


----------



## Wheres3d

John Bu said:


> If you plan to watch movies in dolby vision format, then you need Vertex, since lspt9 does not support this format. There is no point in expecting native support in the future, since this is a war of formats and Samsung will never add DoVi, so Vertex is the only way to watch DoVi on lspt9.


Actually that's not correct , check out this thread








Alternative Devices for Enabling Low Latency Dolby...


On the non-pro - that only selects one of the 31 built-in EDIDs... 'Y' in this case isn't hex, it is the built-in index. [EDIT] - I also tried putting an '=' afterwards with an EDID string of hex and though it takes it, it doesn't change the firmware/NVM. [EDIT2] - Actually the command won't...




www.avsforum.com




With a cheap HDMI splitter you can flash the firmware to alter the edid so your source (I use Xbox ) will go into dv mode and send lldv to the projector , the only problem is you are supposed to put projector into HDR mode which we can't manually so the colours are washed out , I found just by increasing the colour saturation I'm getting an excellent picture feeding it Dolby vision on Netflix and Disney apps on Xbox .
More faffing about than vertex , need a PC to flash the firmware , different nit versions are available , I'm using near 1000 , but it's 1/10th the cost of a vertex so well worth trying to see what you think


----------



## avsenthusiast

If Vertex is too expensive, try Arcana with a coupon code, they used to offer discounts around this time of the year.

Despite Arcana’s single input it can be installed between AVR and LSP9T so one can still feed DoVi to LSP9T from multiple source using AVR.

i just got a Cube 3, which supports DoVi and HDR10+ at the same time, so on paper it’s perfect for LSP9T owners who also have HDfury devices.

On the other hand, I do not recommend the new Apple TV because it forces you to choose one format over the other.


----------



## intrepiddawn

Can anybody confirm that a firmware update changed the HDMI ports to 2.1 but there's a hard cap on the bandwidth for 24 Gbs. I'm just trying to understand if this is true or not. I currently own a LSP9T I have a 1080 connected to it which has HdMI version 2.0 b. I'm just wondering would it be worth it if the ports are now 2.1 to upgrade to a 30 series graphics card?

Edit: I also have Samsung's q900a sound bar hooked up via e-arc. I know there are some sound changes that HDMI 2.1 changed as well.


----------



## bennutt

intrepiddawn said:


> Can anybody confirm that a firmware update changed the HDMI ports to 2.1 but there's a hard cap on the bandwidth for 24 Gbs. I'm just trying to understand if this is true or not. I currently own a LSP9T I have a 1080 connected to it which has HdMI version 2.0 b. I'm just wondering would it be worth it if the ports are now 2.1 to upgrade to a 30 series graphics card?
> 
> Edit: I also have Samsung's q900a sound bar hooked up via e-arc. I know there are some sound changes that HDMI 2.1 changed as well.


I didn't think HDMI 2.1 was an "updateable feature" isn't that hardware specific? It's either physically there or it isn't.


----------



## avsenthusiast

bennutt said:


> I didn't think HDMI 2.1 was an "updateable feature" isn't that hardware specific? It's either physically there or it isn't.


I don't recall ever seeing this in the firmware release notes, was there?


----------



## Lord Avenger

avsenthusiast said:


> I don't recall ever seeing this in the firmware release notes, was there?


Which firmware are we talking about?

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## 249766785

The VIVIDSTORM screen is available for the Premiere LSP9T laser projector
I have been using the VIVIDSTORM UST alr screen, which I am satisfied with, and the kids went crazy on the home screen over the weekend.


----------



## cminor102

Does anyone have experience with projecting and focusing the image on a screen smaller than 100 inches? Thinking about a 92 inch screen.

I'm currently looking for screen options to take it off my white wall, but I can't fit a 100in screen in my room. I also don't really have the room/desire to assemble a large screen as I'm renting my apartment in a city, so my priorities lie in something that I can more easily take with me if I move or something I can fix. Currently I'm able to project a 90-95in screen, and the wall is flat enough that the image isn't too warped. But since its currently on a slightly rough wall I can't judge focusing performance at that size. When adjusting the focus setting, what looks most focused does have some play in either direction which is giving me some hope.

The options I'm considering are 1) wall/hang mount a 92 inch Vividstorm UST PRO Slimline Tension Motorized Screen 2) get a paintable wallpaper and paint with UST projector paint 3) just paint the wall. Ideally I've been trying to search for some kind of UST compatible projector wallpaper type screen but haven't found anything. 

I'm trying to balance budget with long term value and performance. The Vividstorm might be the better performer, but I'm not sure if I want to sink money into a smaller than optimal screen only to maybe move down the line and have room for a larger, better screen. Alternatively I haven't been convinced of the performance of UST projector paint over what it's on now, but it would definitely be the easier option. All of this would come down to the ability for the projector to focus properly to a smaller than spec'd size to a degree where a dedicated screen becomes the best solution. 

Anyone else have experience with this for the LSP9T or even other UST projectors in general?


----------



## Dave Harper

ProfByron said:


> I think that @Dave Harper, the inventor of the Dolby Vision hack (via Vertex), previously said HDR10+ should go straight through to projector.





avsenthusiast said:


> No it doesn’t on the new ATV 4K G3, at least according to my AVR that supports HDR10+. When the new ATV 4K G3 Output Mode is set to Dolby Vision, the AVR is not getting HDR10+





avsenthusiast said:


> If Vertex is too expensive, try Arcana with a coupon code, they used to offer discounts around this time of the year.
> 
> Despite Arcana’s single input it can be installed between AVR and LSP9T so one can still feed DoVi to LSP9T from multiple source using AVR.
> 
> i just got a Cube 3, which supports DoVi and HDR10+ at the same time, so on paper it’s perfect for LSP9T owners who also have HDfury devices.
> 
> On the other hand, I do not recommend the new Apple TV because it forces you to choose one format over the other.


If you try each of the formats and then set it to SDR 4K60, then set Match Frame Rate and Dynamic Range, it should play in whatever mode it’s receiving, be it SDR, HDR10, HDR10+ or DV.


----------



## Dave Harper

Nickal said:


> Ok thank you. Sounds like I will still need to buy a Vertex and best to keep Dolby Vision and not HDR10+. If anyone has made a video on how to hook up the Vertex with the Apple TV and Samsung please post!!


You can feel free to try these modified EDIDs using the linked procedure. 









HDFury Vertex2 - Owner's Thread


I would use only these 2 changes from default. This will give LLDV to HDR and is the only changes I would make. Thank you. Will give it a go shortly.




www.avsforum.com


----------



## avsenthusiast

avsenthusiast said:


> No it doesn’t on the new ATV 4K G3, at least according to my AVR that supports HDR10+. When the new ATV 4K G3 Output Mode is set to Dolby Vision, the AVR is not getting HDR10+





Dave Harper said:


> If you try each of the formats and then set it to SDR 4K60, then set Match Frame Rate and Dynamic Range, it should play in whatever mode it’s receiving, be it SDR, HDR10, HDR10+ or DV.


@Dave Harper, thanks for the great suggestion! I wanted it to work badly but your suggested ATV setting of setting SDR and turning on "Match FR & DR" unfortunately doesn't fully overcome ATV's limitations. Here are my findings when ATV is set to SDR and Match FR & DR on:

1. Some HDR10+ titles on Prime would send HDR10+ properly but some would not.

2. Netflix is better but some titles that have Dolby Vision just show up as "Ultra HD 4K" on the title description

3. Handshaking is 5-10 seconds slower each time playing a show, and the same delay occurs just from existing the show back to Prime / Netflix menus.

In the end, using ATV to get both HDR10+ and LLDV is just so confusing. Fire Cube Gen 3 supports both formats right out of the box. It even has a neat "Format supported summary" screens that confirms simultaneous support for each. No guessing when browsing videos on streaming apps, a perfect match for LSP9T for those with HDfury devices already.

But then, I do prefer ATV's interface, navigation and its advanced Accessibility features. We can't have it all 🙂


----------



## sc2003

Yesterday a “white dot” showed up near the middle of the screen. It almost looks like a frozen pixel.

Has anyone else experienced this? Our warranty period ends next month and I’m a little worried at this point.


----------



## benplace23

sc2003 said:


> Yesterday a “white dot” showed up near the middle of the screen. It almost looks like a frozen pixel.
> 
> Has anyone else experienced this? Our warranty period ends next month and I’m a little worried at this point.


If your warranty ends next month, open a case immediately. Once the case is opened within your warranty period they have to fix it.
Does the white dot show up in apps on the projector? (Not through a device like a roku, shield etc...)


----------



## benplace23

Larry J said:


> I just put the Vertex as the last thing before the PJ. Everything goes in my AVR and then the Vertex and it works fine. I just found it easier that way instead of trying to use the Vertex inputs. So that way DV gets trigger from any device that has DV to the Samsung. Which I find its a better picture using the Vertex anyway.


This will only work if your receiver supports DV though, correct?


----------



## sc2003

benplace23 said:


> If your warranty ends next month, open a case immediately. Once the case is opened within your warranty period they have to fix it.
> Does the white dot show up in apps on the projector? (Not through a device like a roku, shield etc...)


Just completed the warranty request.

The white dot shows up on every screen regardless of the source.


----------



## benplace23

sc2003 said:


> Just completed the warranty request.
> 
> The white dot shows up on every screen regardless of the source.


It sounds like you have a dead pixel. There really isnt anything you can do on a laser projector. They should replace it for you under warranty.


----------



## Dave Harper

benplace23 said:


> It sounds like you have a dead pixel. There really isnt anything you can do on a laser projector. They should replace it for you under warranty.


The laser is just the light source and the DLP chip is exactly the same as a projector using a lamp as its light source, so it shouldn’t matter whether it is laser or lamp if there is a technique you can use to unstick the pixel.


----------



## BenPlace

Dave Harper said:


> The laser is just the light source and the DLP chip is exactly the same as a projector using a lamp as its light source, so it shouldn’t matter whether it is laser or lamp if there is a technique you can use to unstick the pixel.


Thanks Dave for clarification. I had a laser projector get a dead pixel and tried the various videos to try to unstick it with no luck. I didn't know if those videos would work with a laser or not.


----------



## redcrow240

Stuck mirror. Happened to me. Had to send it to Samsung. I posted my experience in this thread. My suspicion was that it happened when the unit updated firmware. Put auto update off ever since. Best of luck.


----------



## ChrisUKAV

dcheuk said:


> Yeah, everything is a compromise. I really didn't want to put it that low but the height of the screen for my room is what drove me to get that tv stand. You can see that I place it all the way in front of the stand so that the upper firing speakers aren't blocked but now the side speakers will hit the supports. Also, my room isn't the best for sound. That room has a really high ceiling. Long story long, I'm not the happiest with it so I just ordered a pair of Sonos Ones to put in the back and hopefully that will fill out the sound. How much of that is the low placement I don't know. Maybe I'll put it up on a chair to see if it sounds any different. FWIW, the arc is replacing a Yamaha YSP 4300 sound bar.


 Hi, I'm new on this forum and I really love the valuable content which is shared! One question, I will get my LSP9T shortly and I plan to use some Sonos speakers (I don't have the space for a sound bar) but how can I connect a pair of Play One for instance to the projector? I know that a for a soundbar it's connected directly to the projector through the HDMI cable but what about the Play Ones?? I also have 2 in ceiling speakers with Sonos amp, how can I connect them to the projector?? Sorry for what might be a newbie question Many thanks in advance for your inputs!


----------



## avsenthusiast

sc2003 said:


> Yesterday a “white dot” showed up near the middle of the screen. It almost looks like a frozen pixel


I haven't seen any white dots, but I have a couple of "black dots" about 3mm each which are not going away, probably time for warranty as well.


----------



## sc2003

avsenthusiast said:


> I haven't seen any white dots, but I have a couple of "black dots" about 3mm each which are not going away, probably time for warranty as well.


In addition to the white dot, started seeing black boxes when using the PS5, and I initially thought the GPU was failing.

However, now that the PS5 has been moved to a different room, we no longer see the black boxes. Hopefully it was an hdmi port/input issue on the projector, so that will be fixed too.

The projector should arrive at Samsung tomorrow. Fingers crossed we receive it back soon.


----------



## Artcore

Hi. I'm on my second unit now but is experiencing an issue I never noticed on the first. 
Often when the picture is in motion, there will be a blurry kinda pixelating outline often around people. This blur can also be around subtitles and other elements of the picture but is often most visible with people in movement. I also noticed it when there are vertical lines next to each other, like a fence or something similar, will make the picture blurry and jitter around the lines. 

Is this an issue anyone is familiar with, and if so is it something that can be fixed in settings? I did try to search but I'm not sure I know the right term for this issue. Thanks!


----------



## benplace23

Artcore said:


> Hi. I'm on my second unit now but is experiencing an issue I never noticed on the first.
> Often when the picture is in motion, there will be a blurry kinda pixelating outline often around people. This blur can also be around subtitles and other elements of the picture but is often most visible with people in movement. I also noticed it when there are vertical lines next to each other, like a fence or something similar, will make the picture blurry and jitter around the lines.
> 
> Is this an issue anyone is familiar with, and if so is it something that can be fixed in settings? I did try to search but I'm not sure I know the right term for this issue. Thanks!


Try switching to game mode and see if still does it. I see that all the time with the smooth motion turned on.


----------



## da9el84

Hi guys. I don't know if anyone has seen this issue, but I've been suffering from it since purchase in early 2021 and Samsung support has not been able to figure it out.

My device has been turning on by itself and I've tried several things to fix it, including removing the batteries from the remote(as per Samsung support, it can start to behave irratic when state of charge is low....) updated, reset, changed HDMI cables, updated Apple TV to new model, several software updates on the Shield and Denon AVCX3700H.
In my ownership time I've even replaced my entire network setup to Ubiquiti.

In the end I found the issue - well sort of - it is something on my network or when the device is connected to network. I took out the ethernet cable from the projector and it hasn't done it since. I did try and monitor network for it back when it was connected, but I never saw anything out of the ordinary when I saw the projector had turned on by itself.
It was happening at all hours of the day and night, sometimes multiple times in a row(I'd turn it off and watch it turn back on within a minute), I also observed it while being home alone (I ended up pointing a surveillance camera towards the screen to see when it would turn on and look through my logs to see if there was anything).

I haven't tried connecting to wifi and seeing if it's the same, but I would assume so.


----------



## avsenthusiast

da9el84 said:


> Hi guys. I don't know if anyone has seen this issue, but I've been suffering from it since purchase in early 2021 and Samsung support has not been able to figure it out.


It doesn't apply to you, but our cat was turning on the projector by walking over the remotes table and pressing the power buttons. After we moved the remotes to a spot where she can't reach, the strange situation stopped 😂


----------



## Artcore

benplace23 said:


> Try switching to game mode and see if still does it. I see that all the time with the smooth motion turned on.


Thanks for the reply! 
It seems that I need to connect a gaming console to switch it on, or am I missing something?


----------



## jameelch

New Samsung lsp9t owner here.

Using with an Elunevision 110” ALR Reference screen. Primary sources are a Sony X700 hd blu-ray player and Apple tv 4k 2022.

Trying to get my head around how best to leverage HDR 10+.

Apple TV is set to output HDR 10. Have set match dynamic range->match content to yes.

Issue:

Anything I play on ATV (Netflix, Prime), cannot tell what resolution/hdr is. If I press the button on the remote with 4 colours, an “info” icon shows up, but selecting it displays nothing. Note, on bluray, info button does display resolution and HDR UHD at least on Blade Runner 2049.

is there a way to check info on what is being played back on ATV?
Thanks.


----------



## avsenthusiast

jameelch said:


> New Samsung lsp9t owner here.
> 
> Using with an Elunevision 110” ALR Reference screen. Primary sources are a Sony X700 hd blu-ray player and Apple tv 4k 2022.


Congrats on the new LSP9T. 

I am located in Canada too so Elunevision's Reference ALR is one of the locally available models here, but I haven't been able to find any reviews comparing it directly with other popular models like Vividstorm UST, Grandview Dynamique, Elitescreen CLR3 etc. 

How do you find the Elunevision?



jameelch said:


> is there a way to check info on what is being played back on ATV?


Do you have an AVR? Usually the "info" or "status" function provides details of input and output.


----------



## kwenar

I have a 7 not a 9 with an Elunavision screen. The screen is pretty good for ALR properties and has nice picture quality. The only thing is the bezel is a half inch and the light bleed is not good. I am looking at other options with thicker bezels to hide the light bleed.


----------



## Wheres3d

jameelch said:


> New Samsung lsp9t owner here.
> 
> Using with an Elunevision 110” ALR Reference screen. Primary sources are a Sony X700 hd blu-ray player and Apple tv 4k 2022.
> 
> Trying to get my head around how best to leverage HDR 10+.
> 
> Apple TV is set to output HDR 10. Have set match dynamic range->match content to yes.
> 
> Issue:
> 
> Anything I play on ATV (Netflix, Prime), cannot tell what resolution/hdr is. If I press the button on the remote with 4 colours, an “info” icon shows up, but selecting it displays nothing. Note, on bluray, info button does display resolution and HDR UHD at least on Blade Runner 2049.
> 
> is there a way to check info on what is being played back on ATV?
> Thanks.


If you press the home button , then step all the way left to settings the info bar above will show picture mode game mode y/n and an icon for HDR or hdr10+


----------



## Wheres3d

Artcore said:


> Thanks for the reply!
> It seems that I need to connect a gaming console to switch it on, or am I missing something?


See my reply above


----------



## jameelch

avsenthusiast said:


> Congrats on the new LSP9T.
> 
> I am located in Canada too so Elunevision's Reference ALR is one of the locally available models here, but I haven't been able to find any reviews comparing it directly with other popular models like Vividstorm UST, Grandview Dynamique, Elitescreen CLR3 etc.
> 
> How do you find the Elunevision?
> 
> 
> Do you have an AVR? Usually the "info" or "status" function provides details of input and output.





kwenar said:


> I have a 7 not a 9 with an Elunavision screen. The screen is pretty good for ALR properties and has nice picture quality. The only thing is the bezel is a half inch and the light bleed is not good. I am looking at other options with thicker bezels to hide the light bleed.


I opted for the "Reference" vs. the much more expensive Aurora ALR as all my usage is in a zero light environment. Here are some thoughts that may be helpful:

1. In a zero light environment, you can likely do equally well with a cheaper white screen. Since I am new to the UST space, I wanted to try and avoid the light reflections created by the projector itself since it hits the screen at a sharp angle and can cause light on the ceiling issue.
2. The Aurora is hands down much much better at rejecting ambient light in the room. If your usage is with lights on, then you will not be happy with the Reference screen.
3. You are right there is very little in terms of reviews on this screen so it is a leap of faith. Having gone through the process, I can tell you that the screen frame and material are very good quality wise - things are solid, everything fits and I was able to self assemble a very clean looking flat screen. As others have noted, prepare to spend a fair bit of time on the assembly. I am pretty handy, still took me ~4 hours.
4. I had initially thought that the led's on the screen are a total gimmick. I have found that turning these on actually helps in making the screen image pop more - the contrast looks improved - plus all stray light just disappears. YMMV, but I now watch everything with the led's turned on at low intensity - very happy with that and no stray light!


----------



## jameelch

Wheres3d said:


> If you press the home button , then step all the way left to settings the info bar above will show picture mode game mode y/n and an icon for HDR or hdr10+


Thank you. I will go check that out. Much appreciated!


----------



## avsenthusiast

jameelch said:


> YMMV, but I now watch everything with the led's turned on at low intensity - very happy with that and no stray light!


Is there a specific color you set your LED to? I am curious as some colors may affect vision more than others.


----------



## jameelch

avsenthusiast said:


> Is there a specific color you set your LED to? I am curious as some colors may affect vision more than others.


You are right. Some colours do indeed work better than others. For me, the orange colour at minimum brightness seems to work well across all material I have tested with.

You can easily change colours and brightness with the supplied remote. And like I said, any light leakage from the edges becomes a non issue.


----------



## nordicgod1

Still having problems with this PJ the Amazon app is truly terrible and can barely watch stuff as it goes black every few seconds with sound still playing tried deleting app and reinstalling . Is it to do with ultra ? It Does it at start of Disney plus aswell just a couple of times but settles down on that one and Netflix is fine . Got it connected via etherenet cable to 500 meg bt optic fibre aswell . also getting sick and tired of smart remote blinking then PJ blinks and keeps turning on the sound bar connected via arc , can do this 10 times an hour and beginning to really annoy me and am I going to have to turn off at plug ? begining to regret splashing out on it for 1999 at richer sounds and then 1500 on a vivid stormfloor raising screen and maybe just should have got a bigger tv and preferably not a Samsung


----------



## avsenthusiast

nordicgod1 said:


> Still having problems with this PJ the Amazon app is truly terrible and can barely watch stuff as it goes black every few seconds with sound still playing tried deleting app and reinstalling . Is it to do with ultra ?


No, it has something to do with HDR10+ content, all other formats don’t have this issue. That’s why you are only seeing on Prime and Disney+

The way to solve it is to disconnect the power completely for 5 mins and plug in again. That’s how I solved this blackout problem.


----------



## nordicgod1

avsenthusiast said:


> No, it has something to do with HDR10+ content, all other formats don’t have this issue. That’s why you are only seeing on Prime and Disney+ The way to solve it is to disconnect the power completely for 5 mins and plug in again. That’s how I solved this blackout problem.


 Ok thanks for that will give that a go and hopefully that will sort out the blank screen . Just want a fix now to stop the sound bar turning randomly on every few mins as doing my head in


----------



## gbalabasquer

Hey everyone, I've acquired this LSP9T Samsung projector few weeks ago and I'm pretty happy with how it resulted. However I have one issue that annoys me quite a bit.
I'm noticing that watching for example Netflix (at least with the inbuilt app) colors tone change suddenly and constantly, like few seconds of a tone then changes to another. I think this is only happening with HDR content. However I tried with Disney+ app and HDR content, and couldn't see it was happening. Same using Netflix and non HDR content.
I would have assumed it was just some Netflix problem but playing FIFA 23 on PS5 sometimes it also happens (with HDR activated), not in every match, but I have ones that this happens (playing online).
Does anyone have any idea what can be the problem? I tried disabling all what I could find of dynamic adjustment settings but nothing seems to really solve this problem. It's driving me pretty crazy because the image quality is great, but can't stop seeing the color tone changes.


----------



## gbalabasquer

avsenthusiast said:


> My last two days of testing LSP9T color shift issue on my 3rd unit of LSP9T has revealed more questions than answers. Here's what happened:
> 
> • I was about to give up on LSP9T due to my 3 units with the same color shift defect
> • But late last night, I notice "Emby" app running on Shield Pro does NOT exhibit this defect in SDR and HDR
> • This is the same Shield Pro that exhibits color shift when running Netflix and Prime
> • So I gave this thing a deeper analysis
> 
> *Question 1*: Maybe my Shield Pro is broken? Because the Emby app on it does NOT have this problem, only Netflix and Prime show color shift
> 
> • To rule out Shield Pro as the problem, I tested native Netflix and Prime apps running on LSP9T
> • Unfortunately, I see the same color shift problem with Netflix and Prime apps on LSP9T
> • now we know the color shift issue cannot be attributed to my Shield Pro alone
> 
> *Question 2: *So maybe it's the wrong content that I've been watching?
> 
> • I have tested content with Dolby Vision, HDR10 and HDR10+ the results are consistently the same
> • Basically I get color shift with projector menu, OSD, subtitles, bright elements in scenes, period.
> 
> *Question 3: *What about ATV?
> 
> • Our of curiosity, I plugged in my ATV 1080p Gen4 that is not capable of HDR
> • *No color shift* is observed on Netflix, Prime apps
> • Unable to test my ATV 4K Gen 1 with HDR, because I am giving it away for Christmas
> • Now waiting for my ATV 4K Gen 2 to arrive, will test this
> 
> *Question 4: *It seems like color shift only happens on HDR content?
> 
> • Not true, my Emby app on Shield Pro can show HDR content without color shift
> 
> *Questions 5: *So maybe Netflix and Prime apps are the cultprit?
> 
> • This is not likely because Netflix supports DV and HDR10
> • But then even with Prime which supports HDR10+ this Samsung still shows color shifts
> 
> *Question 6: *Why is the Emby app on Shield Pro able to overcome the color shift issue?
> 
> • this is perhaps the million dollar question
> • I am checking Shield Pro and Emby forums for clues
> • could be because Emby has proper coding for LSP9T to "understand" HDR signals?
> • I can confirm if the Emby app on ATV 4K Gen 2 can also overcome this issue when it arrives too
> 
> For now, it seems more testing is required to find out what exactly is going on


Actually I think this might be probably something similar than what is happening to me.


----------



## gbalabasquer

So I've been following the last 70+ pages and realized this is a very much known problem that some people have. I'm afraid I received one of the defected units or maybe 2303 firmware is provoking it to all units (as I saw that some person who didn't have the issue started to have it with an upgrade). I see in Samsung US there is the option to download (2401.0) which doesn't come to me from the projector menu, will try to install that one and see what happens.


----------



## gbalabasquer

IntriguedByTech said:


> Hi all,
> Hope everyone is doing well.
> 
> Is there a way to downgrade firmware of the LSP9T? The latest firmware has caused the color shift issue with subtitles(many have seen in the past) in my unit. The previous FW didn't have this issue on my unit.
> Another question is has someone any experience with the new LG Hu915QB? Is the contrast a significant bump from LSP9T or it is more on paper and less on the perceived contrast to our eyes?


Hey @IntriguedByTech do you remember with which version you started to have this shift color problem? And did it get resolved with another upgrade? I'm on 2303 and I have the color issue. The projector is not giving me the option to upgrade (so I guess only manual with the file could work). I bought the projector almost a month ago and I think it came directly with this version.


----------



## hanks

I also have noticed the color shift problem start about a month ago. I've had the projector for about 9 months. Netflix White Lotus shifted so much!! What have people done to fix this?


----------



## gbalabasquer

It seems in Argentina the latest version is 2301.1 (which seems to be the same latest version in the US). The 2401.1 is some European one. So I'm probably just stuck with this issue... I think I can still replace the unit for a new one but guessing will be the same problem...


----------



## Wheres3d

I'm wondering what colour settings you guys are using , I forget the options now but I mean bt2020 p3 etc. 

Btw I'm on 2301.1 and don't have this issue , had an option to upgrade a while ago but haven't yet so don't know if better or not


----------



## gbalabasquer

Wheres3d said:


> I'm wondering what colour settings you guys are using , I forget the options now but I mean bt2020 p3 etc.
> 
> Btw I'm on 2301.1 and don't have this issue , had an option to upgrade a while ago but haven't yet so don't know if better or not


I should checked but I haven't changed that as far as I remember, well I touched certain stuff but at the end reseted to factory and the problem is there.
The only thing that solves this problem for me in Netflix is putting the subtitles in the smallest size with transparent black background as another user suggested. From what I heard there are other things that also trigger this issue (and I've also noticed it playing Fifa).
I already started the process to change the projector for a new unit but I'm doubting if finally doing it, first because since I got this one Argentina started to win in the world cup and now I have some feelings attached to it lol. But mainly because I doubt the new one will have the issue fixed and I'm afraid that might also come with something else.


----------



## Dbh1989

Is there any way to manually put (or force) lsp9t in HDR-mode? Or access the secret service menu as samsung tv's? 

Cannot find anything except by adding an expensive Hdfury.


----------



## Lord Avenger

Why do you need to do this? It switches to HDR mode automatically when you send HDR, with or without HDFury.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Dbh1989

Lord Avenger said:


> Why do you need to do this? It switches to HDR mode automatically when you send HDR, with or without HDFury.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


Yes, but when i send lldv, it doesn't switch automatically. The signal is just read as sdr, though lldv must use hdr to look as intended.


----------



## avsenthusiast

Dbh1989 said:


> Yes, but when i send lldv, it doesn't switch automatically. The signal is just read as sdr, though lldv must use hdr to look as intended.


You must be using the cheap Ezcoo $25 device to get LLDV which is such a bargain. I already have the HDfury Arcana but I got myself an Ezcoo to test as well but just couldn't find a way to put LSP9T in HDR mode manually mode unfortunately.


----------



## avsenthusiast

gbalabasquer said:


> The only thing that solves this problem for me in Netflix is putting the subtitles in the smallest size with transparent black background as another user suggested. From what I heard there are other things that also trigger this issue (and I've also noticed it playing Fifa).


Hi @gbalabasquer glad to hear my suggestion was able to help you with minimizing the color shift. 

Aside from changing subtitles size and making it transparent, you could also get your streaming device (eg. ATV, FireCube) to force output in HDR. But honestly I don't like this method because all the SDR colors are messed up and it's not possible calibrate in SDR and HDR modes separately.


----------



## avsenthusiast

nordicgod1 said:


> Ok thanks for that will give that a go and hopefully that will sort out the blank screen.


Aside from the power reset, using good known cables such as Cable Matters 8K cables also helps with stopping the blanking/blacking-out issue on the LSP9T when watching HDR10+ content.


----------



## Dbh1989

avsenthusiast said:


> Dbh1989 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, but when i send lldv, it doesn't switch automatically. The signal is just read as sdr, though lldv must use hdr to look as intended.
> 
> 
> 
> You must be using the cheap Ezcoo $25 device to get LLDV which is such a bargain. I already have the HDfury Arcana but I got myself an Ezcoo to test as well but just couldn't find a way to put LSP9T in HDR mode manually mode unfortunately.
Click to expand...

Yes that's exactly what i did too with the ezcoo. How is your experience with the difference in image quality of lldv between ezcoo and arcana, when the former is in sdr and the latter is forcing hdr?


----------



## avsenthusiast

Dbh1989 said:


> Yes that's exactly what i did too with the ezcoo. How is your experience with the difference in image quality of lldv between ezcoo and arcana, when the former is in sdr and the latter is forcing hdr?


Feeding LSP9T with LLDV while HDR mode cannot be engaged results in horrible image quality, so it's unwatchable for me. Arcana is the cheapest working solution to go LLDV on LSP9T. Good timing that HDfury has a 25% pre-order discount for Arcana 8K on right now to take advantage of.


----------



## Dbh1989

avsenthusiast said:


> Dbh1989 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes that's exactly what i did too with the ezcoo. How is your experience with the difference in image quality of lldv between ezcoo and arcana, when the former is in sdr and the latter is forcing hdr?
> 
> 
> 
> Feeding LSP9T with LLDV while HDR mode cannot be engaged results in horrible image quality, so it's unwatchable for me. Arcana is the cheapest working solution to go LLDV on LSP9T. Good timing that HDfury has a 25% pre-order discount for Arcana 8K on right now to take advantage of.
Click to expand...

Yes you're right about that - if I have the patience to wait until March. Maybe I should find a used Arcana 😊


----------



## avsenthusiast

Dbh1989 said:


> Yes you're right about that - if I have the patience to wait until March. Maybe I should find a used Arcana 😊


Good luck hunting!


----------



## Lord Avenger

Wheres3d said:


> I'm wondering what colour settings you guys are using , I forget the options now but I mean bt2020 p3 etc.
> 
> Btw I'm on 2301.1 and don't have this issue , had an option to upgrade a while ago but haven't yet so don't know if better or not


I followed all the USB update instructions to the core and the projector keeps reporting no new updates found from the inserted USB. I am on 2303 and trying to get to 2303.1. 

Did any of you face this problem? If yes, what did you do to get around it?

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Dbh1989

avsenthusiast said:


> Dbh1989 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes you're right about that - if I have the patience to wait until March. Maybe I should find a used Arcana 😊
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck hunting!
Click to expand...

Thank you, found one for 130$ and cannot wait to try it out. Since you own the arcana, how should it be set up with the lsp9t? Hdmi-out to lsp9t (earc port?), and eArc-out to receiver?


----------



## Wheres3d

avsenthusiast said:


> Feeding LSP9T with LLDV while HDR mode cannot be engaged results in horrible image quality, so it's unwatchable for me. Arcana is the cheapest working solution to go LLDV on LSP9T. Good timing that HDfury has a 25% pre-order discount for Arcana 8K on right now to take advantage of.


Surprised to see you saying image quality is horrible with ezcoo , in what way is it horrible , I know the colours are washed out as I'm using ezcoo on mine but I found increasing the colour saturation brought them back to normal, is the hdfury really that much better , if so I might have to get one , but to be honest I've been happy with the ezcoo , what nits have you tried on ezcoo


----------



## Agustinkenmark

avsenthusiast said:


> When did you update to 2012 firmware? My LSP9T was on 2012 right out of the box so I couldn't capture any comparisons.
> 
> 
> Try some "darker" content without bright highlights, eg. dialog inside an evenly lit room and two people talking to each other on screen, I counted about 14 times of color shift within a 2-min clip of _Virgin River. _Brutal.
> 
> 
> If the color/contrast shift is also triggered by menu/OSD, I can't see it especially the _Settings Menu _covers up almost 75-80% of the screen obscuring the content behind it.
> 
> 
> This I have observed. Basically f there are enough "highlight areas" in the scene, eg. blown-out windows, the subtitles don't trigger a color/contrast shift.
> 
> 
> I haven't tested different subtitles colors yet but I can guess why.
> 
> 
> Yes the color shift occurs only if subtitle texts are big and wide enough to trigger the shift.
> 
> Here are my conclusions:
> 
> 1. For Netflix, the threshold for subtitle texts to trigger color shift is roughly about half the width of the screen (could be less, this is by estimation, I haven't used a tape measure yet).
> 
> 2. This means, if subtitles are shorter than half the width of screen, shifts won't happen, PERIOD.
> 
> 3. Once subtitles texts EXCEED half the width (or less) of the screen, then consistently without fail color, shifts will occur.
> 
> 4. The only situations where subtitle texts would not trigger color shifts and the color shifts are suppressed is when they exceed half the width (or less) of the screen, but there are huge patches of super bright areas in other parts of the screen.
> 
> 5. Apps like Prime can create super tiny subtitles so I don't know if it's the tininess or the lack of width that don't seem to trigger color shifts like Netflix does.
> 
> 6. 4K HDR shows on Netflix are the worst offenders when subtitle is turned on because the subtitle size is HUGE and cannot be adjusted like Prime. This is the same on both external apps or native apps so defective sources can be ruled out.
> 
> 7. If you are watching a Nature show, you notice the foliage keeps shifting colors. If you are watching a quiet drama with lots of dialog, people will shift from wearing more makeup and less makeup constantly, very distracting and for me, it's at the level of annoying.
> 
> 8. Changing color spaces to Auto or a specific one does NOT make a difference. All the above conditions will trigger color shifts.
> 
> 9. Changing color saturation does NOT make a difference. All the above conditions will trigger color shifts.
> 
> 10. Making 2-point white balance adjustments does NOT make a difference. All the above conditions will trigger color shifts.
> 
> The ONLY thing I can hope for right now is manufacturing defect on isolated/selected units, and this is not a wide spread issue. Maybe @JereyWolf you, me and the Italian magazine reviewer guy are the only 3 unlucky ones with this issue, in this case at least there is a chance a different unit or service center will be able to fix this.
> 
> Can other owners on this thread confirm the existence of this issue on your unit? Your input will provide an indication whether this is due to design flaw or just isolated incidents limited to defective units.





avsenthusiast said:


> When did you update to 2012 firmware? My LSP9T was on 2012 right out of the box so I couldn't capture any comparisons.
> 
> 
> Try some "darker" content without bright highlights, eg. dialog inside an evenly lit room and two people talking to each other on screen, I counted about 14 times of color shift within a 2-min clip of _Virgin River. _Brutal.
> 
> 
> If the color/contrast shift is also triggered by menu/OSD, I can't see it especially the _Settings Menu _covers up almost 75-80% of the screen obscuring the content behind it.
> 
> 
> This I have observed. Basically f there are enough "highlight areas" in the scene, eg. blown-out windows, the subtitles don't trigger a color/contrast shift.
> 
> 
> I haven't tested different subtitles colors yet but I can guess why.
> 
> 
> Yes the color shift occurs only if subtitle texts are big and wide enough to trigger the shift.
> 
> Here are my conclusions:
> 
> 1. For Netflix, the threshold for subtitle texts to trigger color shift is roughly about half the width of the screen (could be less, this is by estimation, I haven't used a tape measure yet).
> 
> 2. This means, if subtitles are shorter than half the width of screen, shifts won't happen, PERIOD.
> 
> 3. Once subtitles texts EXCEED half the width (or less) of the screen, then consistently without fail color, shifts will occur.
> 
> 4. The only situations where subtitle texts would not trigger color shifts and the color shifts are suppressed is when they exceed half the width (or less) of the screen, but there are huge patches of super bright areas in other parts of the screen.
> 
> 5. Apps like Prime can create super tiny subtitles so I don't know if it's the tininess or the lack of width that don't seem to trigger color shifts like Netflix does.
> 
> 6. 4K HDR shows on Netflix are the worst offenders when subtitle is turned on because the subtitle size is HUGE and cannot be adjusted like Prime. This is the same on both external apps or native apps so defective sources can be ruled out.
> 
> 7. If you are watching a Nature show, you notice the foliage keeps shifting colors. If you are watching a quiet drama with lots of dialog, people will shift from wearing more makeup and less makeup constantly, very distracting and for me, it's at the level of annoying.
> 
> 8. Changing color spaces to Auto or a specific one does NOT make a difference. All the above conditions will trigger color shifts.
> 
> 9. Changing color saturation does NOT make a difference. All the above conditions will trigger color shifts.
> 
> 10. Making 2-point white balance adjustments does NOT make a difference. All the above conditions will trigger color shifts.
> 
> The ONLY thing I can hope for right now is manufacturing defect on isolated/selected units, and this is not a wide spread issue. Maybe @JereyWolf you, me and the Italian magazine reviewer guy are the only 3 unlucky ones with this issue, in this case at least there is a chance a different unit or service center will be able to fix this.
> 
> Can other owners on this thread confirm the existence of this issue on your unit? Your input will provide an indication whether this is due to design flaw or just isolated incidents limited to defective units.


I just bought mine. And i have the same issue and same observations. Tried everything. Is this resved now (and how)?


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## avsenthusiast

Agustinkenmark said:


> I just bought mine. And i have the same issue and same observations. Tried everything. Is this resved now (and how)?


Hi @Agustinkenmark thanks for sharing your observations and confirming mine. It seems some people are lucky and receive "perfect" units without this color shift issue. But some others reported that after exchanging to new units, something else was worse. So I would say no, it's not fully resolved. I could mitigate on my current unit, but the problem is not gone. If your unit is brand new, I would advise exchanging it. Please share if you manage to get a good one, so at least it'' be known that defect-free units do exist widely.


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## avsenthusiast

Wheres3d said:


> Surprised to see you saying image quality is horrible with ezcoo , in what way is it horrible , I know the colours are washed out as I'm using ezcoo on mine but I found increasing the colour saturation brought them back to normal, is the hdfury really that much better , if so I might have to get one , but to be honest I've been happy with the ezcoo , what nits have you tried on ezcoo


There is nothing wrong with Ezcoo, it's an amazing little device with cheap cost. But it's not designed to send HDR asset or flag to trigger projectors into HDR mode. When the projector is in the wrong color space, increasing color saturation on mine just made the color balance worse.


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## avsenthusiast

Dbh1989 said:


> Thank you, found one for 130$ and cannot wait to try it out. Since you own the arcana, how should it be set up with the lsp9t? Hdmi-out to lsp9t (earc port?), and eArc-out to receiver?


To get LLDV, HDFury team recommends changing one single setting on Arcana only, which is set "LLDV -> HDR" to ON.

For all other configurations, it depends on equipment type so you will have to experiment with compatibility. They have a great discord channel for support, I would advise you get specific tech support help from there.


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## Dbh1989

avsenthusiast said:


> Dbh1989 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you, found one for 130$ and cannot wait to try it out. Since you own the arcana, how should it be set up with the lsp9t? Hdmi-out to lsp9t (earc port?), and eArc-out to receiver?
> 
> 
> 
> To get LLDV, HDFury team recommends changing one single setting on Arcana only, which is set "LLDV -> HDR" to ON.
> 
> For all other configurations, it depends on equipment type so you will have to experiment with compatibility. They have a great discord channel for support, I would advise you get specific tech support help from there.
Click to expand...

Thank you, I will try that 😊


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## jameelch

I am replacing my uhd player - sony x700 - with a panasonic ub820. The panasonic has support for hdr10+ and offers great tone mapping capability, at least according to the reviews.

Any one here who has hooked up the panasonic ub820 (or ub9000 as they seem to be similar) to the samsung lsp9t projector? Would be very keen to hear your thoughts and any recommendations for settings on the panasonic.


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## am2model3

I watched Top Gun Maverick 4K UHD disc with Dolby Atmos and HDR, the HDR tonemap from the lsp9t looked excellent!


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## gbalabasquer

avsenthusiast said:


> Hi @gbalabasquer glad to hear my suggestion was able to help you with minimizing the color shift.
> 
> Aside from changing subtitles size and making it transparent, you could also get your streaming device (eg. ATV, FireCube) to force output in HDR. But honestly I don't like this method because all the SDR colors are messed up and it's not possible calibrate in SDR and HDR modes separately.


Thanks for the extra info, so far I have been using just the inbuilt Netflix and Disney+ apps.
By the way, I have some news, few days ago I finally got the update of the firmware to 2401 (wasn't available for Argentina and I think it wasn't for the US either, just for some European countries). I had pending to see if something had changed, so finally today I set the subtitles back to default in the Netflix app. I did some tests and by my surprise I couldn't see the color shifting anymore. I noticed though, only in dark scenes, like a minor flicker when the subtitules show and hide (which might be a totally unrelated thing that I need research).
I still need to do more deep review to make sure the color shifting disappeared but maybe the upgrade did the trick for me. Maybe it doesn't for everyone, but for those that started to get the color shifting after a firmware upgrade, might be 2401 is the solution for them.
Anyway, I'll report back whenever I can be more sure the color shifting issue is totally gone or not.


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## jameelch

FWIW. 

Came across this video posted on the panasonic ub820 owners thread. I have followed the recommended settings. Watched 007 Skyfall with these settings and lsp9t set to filmmaker mode. The PQ looked pretty good. This film has a lot of very dark scenes and the projector did a very good job.


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## bengrantdrew

lakersfreak said:


> My LPS9T keeps turning off on its own. Happened twice in 40 minutes while watching a movie through my Xbox Series X. Has this happened to anyone else?


 How did u go with this mine does the same every 10 minutes. Inly while watching dvd. It woll stream fine


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## avsenthusiast

gbalabasquer said:


> By the way, I have some news, few days ago I finally got the update of the firmware to 2401 (wasn't available for Argentina and I think it wasn't for the US either, just for some European countries ... the color shifting disappeared but maybe the upgrade did the trick for me. Maybe it doesn't for everyone, but for those that started to get the color shifting after a firmware upgrade, might be 2401 is the solution for them.


This is encouraging news, I am located in Canada, still no update to 2401 yet.


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## gbalabasquer

avsenthusiast said:


> This is encouraging news, I am located in Canada, still no update to 2401 yet.


Actually never mind, I was doing further tests today and I can notice the color shifting again... Not sure if yesterday I was too tired to notice it or if actually it wasn't happening and today is. If that's the case, then there might be an external factor conditioning it, however I was more and less with the same darkness in the room, so clueless on why I couldn't perceived it yesterday.


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## JereyWolf

gbalabasquer said:


> Hey everyone, I've acquired this LSP9T Samsung projector few weeks ago and I'm pretty happy with how it resulted. However I have one issue that annoys me quite a bit.
> I'm noticing that watching for example Netflix (at least with the inbuilt app) colors tone change suddenly and constantly, like few seconds of a tone then changes to another. I think this is only happening with HDR content. However I tried with Disney+ app and HDR content, and couldn't see it was happening. Same using Netflix and non HDR content.
> I would have assumed it was just some Netflix problem but playing FIFA 23 on PS5 sometimes it also happens (with HDR activated), not in every match, but I have ones that this happens (playing online).
> Does anyone have any idea what can be the problem? I tried disabling all what I could find of dynamic adjustment settings but nothing seems to really solve this problem. It's driving me pretty crazy because the image quality is great, but can't stop seeing the color tone changes.


I tested two different units of the LSP9T side by side and found that one did not have the issue, so I assumed it was hardware related. 

See this post:








Official Samsung "Premiere" LSP9T Owners Thread


Why does he not mention anything about speckle and color shifting? Maybe he didn't notice it or find it to be an issue?




www.avsforum.com


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## gbalabasquer

JereyWolf said:


> I tested two different units of the LSP9T side by side and found that one did not have the issue, so I assumed it was hardware related.
> 
> See this post:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Official Samsung "Premiere" LSP9T Owners Thread
> 
> 
> Why does he not mention anything about speckle and color shifting? Maybe he didn't notice it or find it to be an issue?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


Yeah I was reading your case after my initial post. I still had some hope that there were different sources for the problem as someone claimed the issue started after a firmware upgrade.
Anyway I was offered by my vendor to get a new unit for replacement, however this would be the only change, whatever happens with the new one I should go to Samsung, so I'm dubious on what to do.


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## avsenthusiast

gbalabasquer said:


> however this would be the only change, whatever happens with the new one I should go to Samsung, so I'm dubious on what to do.


I have the same problems too, but there is no clearly UST alternative that is better, as other models have firmware issues as well. So my plan is get a repair (hopefully replacement) towards the end of my warranty.

What year/date is your production unit?


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## gbalabasquer

avsenthusiast said:


> I have the same problems too, but there is no clearly UST alternative that is better, as other models have firmware issues as well. So my plan is get a repair (hopefully replacement) towards the end of my warranty. What year/date is your production unit?


 Where can i get this info? Not finding it in the about section.


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## avsenthusiast

Mine says on the box itself. If you google "Samsung Manufacture Date Code" I think there some articles that teach you how to "decode" the factory date as well. Good luck!


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## gbalabasquer

avsenthusiast said:


> Mine says on the box itself. If you google "Samsung Manufacture Date Code" I think there some articles that teach you how to "decode" the factory date as well. Good luck!


My box doesn't say the date and I couldn't find an article for the projector specifically, but the format seems to match with Samsung Galaxy one and according to that, the date code should be "M3" which stands for March 2019. Do you think that is possible? I guess if that's the case these are the first units produced.


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## gbalabasquer

gbalabasquer said:


> My box doesn't say the date and I couldn't find an article for the projector specifically, but the format seems to match with Samsung Galaxy one and according to that, the date code should be "M3" which stands for March 2019. Do you think that is possible? I guess if that's the case these are the first units produced.


So I've checked with Samsung online support, and giving them the serial number they said it is November 2021, so actually no idea how that value gets decoded...


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## gbalabasquer

gbalabasquer said:


> So I've checked with Samsung online support, and giving them the serial number they said it is November 2021, so actually no idea how that value gets decoded...


Ok yeah I checked in the base of the projector and the date was there, Nov 2021 is correct and coming from China. "RB" (which is in my serial number) apparently is what stands for the date, R=2021 and B=November.

What date is yours?


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